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 m i nwi iiii mii i iin ij wjtwwwwjw^w s 
 
THE LIBRARY OF THE 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF 
 
 NORTH CAROLINA 
 
 THE COLLECTION OF 
 NORTH CAROLINIANA 
 
 CB 
 G87g.l 
 
UNIVERSITY OF N.C. AT CHAPEL HILL 
 
 00031717134 
 
 This book must not 
 be taken from the 
 Library building. 
 
 Form No. 471 
 
^, 
 
 p. ^. §■ 
 
 /x, c>_c>-«'>^e-. . 
 
Rarobtes of a Southerner 
 
 THREE Continents. 
 
 " I must also see Rome."— /^rw/. 
 
 "... An altar to the Lord in tlie midst of tlie land of Egypt, and 
 a pillar at the border thereof to the Lord. And it shall he for a sign and 
 for a witness."— /s'rtzVjA iq. 
 
 " In the way going up to Jerusalem,"— il/^r/l' lo. 
 
 -E^, L. CtK-OOIXIH:. 
 
 SECOInTID T'lTOTJS.-^a^lD- 
 
 GREENSBORO : 
 
 Thomas Brothers, Book and Job Printers. 
 1891. 
 
COPYRIGHTED. 
 
 P. L. GROOME. 
 

 to 
 
 To Col. Julian S. Carr, 
 
 The Frrnid of Urdversal Man, the Beau Ideal PJuMhropist, 
 
 and to 
 
 Washington Duke, Esq., 
 
 WW has done for my Alma Mater what was in my heart but beyond 
 
 my ability to do, this volume is inscribed. 
 
 By the Author. 
 
U/e J\)a\)\[ Tl?em fWl, 
 
 In addition t6 his own observations, the author is indebted to 
 many writers for valuable suggestions in preparing this volume; 
 the following have been specially serviceable : The Standard 
 Histories ; Geikie ; Farrar's Paul ; Conybeare and Howson's 
 Life and Epistles of Paul ; Thompson's Land and the Book; 
 Josephus ; Dr. Young ; Bishop Marvin's East Via West ; Col. Gor- 
 man ; Dr. Buckley's Writings on Foreign Travel ; Dr. Olin ; Dr. 
 Fisk ; Bayard Taylor's Views Afoot ; Lee Merriwether ; Mark 
 Twain ; President Winston's Continental Letters ; Dr. De Haas ; 
 Dr. Menzie's Turkey, Old andNeiv; Dr. Hamlin; Wood's Ephesus; 
 Hamilton's Works on the Turks ; George Ebers' Works ; Ency- 
 clopedia Britannica, and all the guide books in loco. When 
 more than suggestion is used the text ie borrowed with due 
 credit. 
 
 For illustrations we gratefully acknowledge the kindly ser- 
 vices of The (Epworth) Alliance Hemld, Pittsburgh Christian 
 Advocate, Col. J. B. Gorman and Miss Lehman. 
 
 To friendly critics and a generous press the first edition owed 
 its rapid sale. 
 
 May we not hope that enlargement in volume, revision of 
 text, and illustration will secure for this the favorable recep- 
 tion accorded to the first edition? 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTKR. PAGE. 
 
 I. From North Carolina to New York 9 
 
 II. Crossing THE Sea 16 
 
 III. France 25 
 
 IV. Paris to Italy 31 
 
 V. Genoa— "Pearl OF THE Sea," 36 
 
 VI. Pisa, Florence 41 
 
 VII. Rome 52 
 
 VIII. Naples—" Wanton Beauty," 59 
 
 IX. Egypt 71 
 
 X. Farther Up THE Nile 85 
 
 XI. Down THE Nile TO Cairo 96 
 
 XII. Odds and Ends 105 
 
 XIII. On Suez Canal 113 
 
 XIV. The Oldest Seaport 118 
 
 XV. From JOPPA to Jerusalem 125 
 
 XVI. Mt. Calvary 138 
 
 XVII. In AND About Jerusalem 145 
 
 XVIII. Around, Above, Beneath and in Jerusalem 
 
 — Mt. Moriah— Gethsemane 156 
 
 XIX. Traveling in Palestine 167 
 
 XX. North of Jerusalem 175 
 
 XXI. Mt. Tabor, Sea of Galilee, Nazareth 184 
 
 XXII. Mt. Carmel and the Coasts of Tyre and 
 SiDON 190 
 
VI. 
 CHAPTER. PAGE. 
 
 XXIII. Beirut 197 
 
 XXIV. The Land, The People, The Man 205 
 
 XXV. Among the Grecian Isles 215 
 
 XXVI. Smyrna and Ephesus 221 
 
 XXVII. From Asia TO Greece 237 
 
 XXVIII. Amongst Savants 247 
 
 XXIX. Through the Hellespont to the Sublime 
 Porte 254 
 
 XXX. In and About Stamboul 260 
 
 XXXI. Constantinople and the Turks 267 
 
 XXXII. Through Roumania, Bulgaria, Servia, 
 Hungary and Austria 277 
 
 XXXIII. Vienna 283 
 
 XXXIV. Through Germany Down the Rhine 292 
 
 XXXV. Heidelberg, Worms, Down the Rhine 
 
 TO Cologne 299 
 
 XXXVI. Three Weeks in London 306 
 
 XXXVII. Sights in London- 315 
 
 XXXVIII. Scotland— Abbotsford, Edinburgh, 
 Glasgow 327 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Frontispiece 
 
 St. Peter's Cathedral 8 
 
 Ship — La Gascogne 19 
 
 Leaning Tower 45 
 
 Loggia Dei Lanzi — Florence 51 
 
 The Colosseum 54 
 
 Naples, Bay, Vesuvius 58 
 
 Pompeii as Dug Out 65 
 
 Exhumed Bodies 63 
 
 Hon. Elihu B. Taft 66 
 
 Mill, Bakery, Wine Jar of Pompeii 79 
 
 Taking a Drink of Water 73 
 
 Sakieh for Raising Water 74 
 
 Cairo from the Citadel 'j'] 
 
 Section of the Great Pyramid 82 
 
 Pylon, or Gate to Egyptian Temple 93 
 
 Scene on the Nile 98 
 
 Water Carrier 106 
 
 Slave Boat on the Nile 112 
 
 Joppa or Jaffa 119 
 
 Women "Grinding at the Mill," 130 
 
 Jews' Wailing Place 154 
 
 Mount of Olives 1 64 
 
 Jerusalem from the South Side of Olivet 171 
 
 Sea of Galilee 204 
 
 The Acropolis of Athens as it Was 243 
 
 Constantinople 259 
 
 City Road Chapel — Wesley's Church, Front View 316 
 
 Interior of City Road Chapel 317 
 
 Wesley's Tomb 319 
 
 Interior of Westminster Abbey — Choir 322 
 
 St. Paul's Cathedral, London 324 
 
 Sir Walter Scott's Monument 330 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 FROM NORIH CAROLINA TO NEW YORK. 
 
 " I have always supposed that the gospel narratives would 
 be more interesting and better understood, and that the instruc- 
 tions of our divine Teacher w^ould fall with more power upon 
 the heart in the places where they were first delivered, than 
 where read or heard on the other side of the world ; and to a 
 limited extent I find this to be true."— TAe Land and the Book. 
 
 At five or six years of age I read '' Peep of Day," in 
 which graphic descriptions of scenes in the Kfe of our 
 Lord awakened a desire to travel over the Holy Land: 
 subsequent reading and education only intensified 
 this desire. And I have often prayed for the privilege 
 and believed it would be afforded. A kind providence 
 anticipated my most sanguine expectations, removing all 
 barriers in the autumn of 1888. 
 
 So by January, 1889, preparations for the journey done 
 I went over to Trinity College to see Professors Armstrong 
 and Price, who had spent some years abroad, for such 
 kindly suggestions and advice as they might make, and 
 much to my delight and profit. Dr. Crowell placed a 
 very valuable book in my hands that served me in 
 studying the conditions of things in Europe. 
 
 At Archdale I had the good fortune to meet the Rev. 
 Rufus King, who had been to Palestine, and who gave me 
 several valuable hints. Bishop Granberry very kindly 
 gave me a letter commending me to the confidence of 
 such Christian communities as I might visit, with the as- 
 
10 
 
 8ur;ince that I should have his prayers in my behalf, all 
 of which were most cordially appreciated. Dr. Young 
 wrote me a few days ago, to go first to Egypt and Pales- 
 tine, as the " mercury would soon be too high for comfort 
 there." I never did like mercury and purposed to follow 
 his advice. 
 
 Farewells said at home, with a valise as my only trav- 
 eling companion, I turned my face toward the North. 
 
 By way of Richmond you reach Washington at 11 a.m., 
 leaving Greensboro at 8:40 p. m. Our engine killed a 
 very fine cow just before reaching Washington — we stop- 
 ped and all went back, excpt the ladies and children, to 
 see her. 
 
 In Washington I called first at the State Department 
 for my passport, after which, it being Wednesday, and 
 Mr. Cleveland's day for receiving visitors, I called at the 
 White House with about one hundred others to be intro- 
 duced to the President. It is an informal affair : the 
 President stands in a doorway leading out of the E!ast 
 room, and visitors come up to him, say " howdye do, ]Mr. 
 President?" and pass out. It is simple and does a little 
 good perhaps and no harm. It adds a proportion to 
 American citizenship denied the subjects of most other 
 countries. 
 
 I admire the public buildings of Washington enough 
 to write a whole letter about them, but many of my 
 readers have already seen them, and others have written 
 them up in better style than I may hope to do. In all 
 the travel before me I do not expect to see any one 
 building more magnificent than the Capitol of the 
 United States, nor any city more beautiful than Wash- 
 ington, with its fine buildings and parks. Being detain- 
 ed in the White House, I had toVait till four for a train, 
 
11 
 
 but the loss of time was more than compensated 
 by the acquaintance of a Mr. Miller, of New York, son 
 of a Presbyterian clergyman. He says in their church 
 they have the Y. P. 0. E. S., i. e. the Young People's 
 Christian Endeavor Society, and that it works admira- 
 bly. It is the same thing about which I wrote an article 
 in November. I formed one of the same at Mt. Tabor, 
 on Granville circuit, with twenty-four members. It 
 gives each something to do. We are all very fast learn- 
 ing the fact that, to take stock in any thing or expend 
 labor, prayer or thought to further a cause, identifies us 
 with that enterprise as we cannot otherwise be. * 
 
 I reached Jersey City at 11:35 P. M., Wednesday, and 
 New Y'ork next morning at nine o'clock. I have now 
 been here two days, stopping at the International 
 Hotel, Park Row, opposite the post office first, but as 
 our Steamer leaves to-morrow morning at six, I came 
 down to the Palace Hotel, one square from the pier. 
 
 My first care was to put a portion of my cash into the 
 hands of Messrs. Brown Bros., whose letters of credit 
 are honored all over the world where there is a Bank. 
 But they required that I be identified ; and Dr. Deems 
 was the only man who knew me in the city. I purposed 
 calling on him for letters of introduction, advice, etc., 
 and called at his house, but he was not at home. I 
 could not find him. But sometimes when things can't 
 be done one way they can another, so I succeeded by the 
 other. 
 
 The Cunard and Inman lines send vessels to-morrow 
 to Liverj^ool, also the Red Star Line to Antwerp. But 
 
 *It is gratifying to know that since writing tlie above, the General Con- 
 ference of our Church has provided for the same thing, calling it the Ep- 
 worth League, But I was the first to organize one in Southern Methodism. 
 
12 
 
 I chose the Gascogne of the French Line to Havre. 
 This is the largest and finest boat in the harbor, capacity 
 seven thousand tons. I chose this also because I might 
 pick up a little French on the way. 
 
 I presume I need not dwell on this city much. Every- 
 thing is done on a magnificent scale. Many of the 
 buildings on Broadway are from six to ten stories high, 
 with high pitched rooms. A. T. Stewart's old property 
 occupies a whole square, and is built of stone as are hun- 
 dreds of others. The Brooklyn Bridge is the largest 
 suspension bridge in the world. The main span is 1.593 
 feet 6 inches long, the entire length is 5,989 feet. It is 
 eighty feet wide, and ninety feet high, and would hold 
 altogether fifty thousand people. They have several 
 lines of elevated steam railways, capable of carrying 200 
 passengers each at a trip; they go about every sixty or 
 seventy seconds during the morning, and the cars 
 are full in the morning and late in the afternoon. 
 They stop every few blocks to let passengers on and 
 off". 
 
 CoojDer Institute is a magnificent brown stone build- 
 ing, opposite the Bible House, Eighth vStreet and 
 Bowery. Here is a free reading-room, one hundred feet 
 wide and two hundred long — I am guessing — with a 
 dozen copies each of scores of papers, and thousands of 
 volumes of books ; tables with chairs, and desks for 
 standing are plentifully provided for the thousands who- 
 come here yearly to read and obtain the knowledge they 
 are too poor to buy elsewhere. About one hundred and 
 fifty were in when I called. Free lectures are given 
 also. Paintings and statuar}^ are on free exhibition. I 
 felt a thrill of admiration for the beneficent founder 
 when I departed. I saw the statue of the Father of 
 
18 
 
 "his country, in Wall Street at the treasury building, 
 where he took the oath of office as the first President of 
 the United Stutes. I visited the Stock Exchange, where 
 men are made pau|)ers and millionaires by telegraph. 
 And although I have attended many scores of revivals 
 of religion, I have never witnessed such antics as I saw 
 cut there. Men yell and scream much, I imagine, as 
 Indians celebr;ite a victory won, or Cannibals the dance 
 of death ; but others have written up New York. 
 
 I noticed a very few colored people in New York, not 
 over a dozen or twenty perhaps. Too cold or too some- 
 thing for Sambo up liere. 
 
 Another thing: I have seen less smoking on Broad- 
 way than one would in a town of a thousand inhabi- 
 tants, jierliaps, in North Carolina. I have seen less than 
 a dozen boys with cigarettes — this I thought remarkable 
 and very creditable. The habit may be smoking at 
 home, I don't know, only 1 have not seen it to any ex- 
 tent, hardly, in public. 
 
 I must relate what will seem to be a narrow escape. 
 It may be serviceable to some young reader ex- 
 pecting to visit the Metropolis. The morning I ar- 
 rived a familiar looking chap accosted me w^th, "Hello, 
 Oroome, yon herel" "Yes," I replied. He endeavored to 
 draw me into conversation, but being in a hurry I es- 
 caped him, but to be encountered a few moments later 
 by a more successful accomplice. The first had learned 
 of my home, name, etc., and reported to the second man 
 -who said : "I am from Greensboro, and felt as if I must 
 
 speak to you ; my name is ," giving the name of 
 
 one of the^first families in North Carolina, "and we are 
 _going to put up a cotton factory in Greensboro; lam 
 here to buy the machinery for it. Let me give you my 
 
14 
 
 card and show you our fancy label." He being so well 
 related, and from Greensboro, and putting up a factory, 
 I supposed it was the knitting factory that was going up 
 about that time, I hated to appear so disinterested as to 
 refuse his card and pictures. "They are just here," he 
 said, leading me across Broadway and on a square, chat- 
 ting very pleasantly. I began to feel, this man is pre- 
 suming very much to thus waste my time, and the 
 thought occurred to me, he is a "sharper," but I followed 
 him two squares, and he stopped at a very nice looking 
 second class office: "Walk in, Mr. Groome." I paused 
 at the door, he passed in and said to a gentleman writing 
 at a table and in front of a screen : "Is the printing 
 done ?" "Xo," replied the scribe, "sit down and I'll send 
 over for it." "Come in, Mr. Groome, it will be done in 
 a moment, and we will go." "No, thanks, I'll stand 
 here," I said. He then came out and insisted • that I 
 come in, wished to know if I were in a hurry, etc., etc. 
 I looked across the street, and a gentleman shook his 
 head violently and gesticulated his warnings. I had 
 already started away. After listening to the proposition 
 of another confidence man to visit a clothing store, I 
 looked straight at him and said : One of your men tried 
 that game on me yesterday ! "I don't understand you — 
 what do you mean, Mr. Groome ?" Oh, nothing, I replied, 
 except it seems when a man comes to the city looking 
 rustic, he finds himself surrounded by a set of new 
 friends, who — "Good day, Mr. Groome," he said excited- 
 ly, and was gone. 
 
 These fellows go in j)airs ; one learns the name and 
 place of residence, reports to the other and thus catch 
 up unwary visitors. They are called "Confidence men.'^ 
 
15 
 
 Once inside'^of their dens, the door closed, and you may 
 be robbed'^if^not murdered.* 
 
 At six o'clock.Saturday morning we went aboard. 
 
 "The sails are spread, and fair the light wind blows, 
 As glad to waft him from his native home." 
 
 •Since reaching home, two North Carolinians have told me of being 
 swindled in the dens of "Confidence men" in New York. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 CROSSING THE SEA. 
 
 Before the gangAvay was pulled ashore and the ship cut 
 from her mooring I penned a few lines, in the early 
 morning light, to loved ones at home, and felt a sensation 
 of fear and peril, new to me and strange, possibly com- 
 mon to those about to cross the ocean for the first time. 
 What hes before me on this waste of water? And if I 
 return not what of the little group that I left weeping 
 a while ago ? What right had I to le:ive any way ? Had 
 not one Jonas tried the same with disastrous results? 
 And was he not an example to men of like habits? Are 
 there any other preachers aboard who, like myself, are 
 going forth to widen and deepen their knowledge of men 
 and things that they may bring to the church's service 
 better equipment of both body and mind, who may be a 
 sort of guarantee to me, that God's good providence will 
 guide us safely over? No, not one can be found on the 
 roll, save a Hebrew Ilabbi. 
 
 About six o'clock, c-n Saturdiv morning, a small steam 
 ferry boat that had b -en fastened to ours, began to move 
 her out towards the channel of the river and turn her 
 prow towards the ocean. So small was the motion that 
 only by sighting distant objects in a line with the oppo- 
 site end of ths vessel could one see her move, but when 
 she at last got into position, and turned her mighty en- 
 gines loose, her screw churned the sea behind into a 
 
foaming whirlpool. We dropped our pilot about the 
 same tiuie as one of the Cunarders. Our engineers de- 
 termined to run out of sight before night, and did but 
 damaged an eugine, causing se\^eral hours delay; during 
 the night the tortoise passed the hare, but we afterwards 
 passed them to see them no more. 
 
 This is the sixth day we liave been out, the first was 
 bright, only one passenger sick, but the second was windy 
 and the usual tributes were paid to Neptune. Sunday 
 night blew a gale. Monday was stormy all day, nearly 
 everybody was sick. We had a musical crew, but no 
 singing. 
 
 Lying in our state room the water rising above the 
 ports looked green at first, but when a great wave struck 
 her we would be in the dark. When at last I essayed to 
 go above, the sublimest scene I ever witnessed met my 
 view. The legions of the storm swept the crest from the 
 waves until a fancy net^Avork seemed to be spread out 
 over the sea. Our ship rolled heavily from one side to 
 the other and all movable commodities changed sides 
 accordingly. The storm beat from the starboard quarter, 
 the waves sometimes running overthe rail ''leaped on the 
 ■deck like charging giants." Siie proudly lifted her head, 
 careened to the larboard, shook them oh" and rushed 
 through the tempest, but to be again attacked by the fu- 
 rious storm king and but to conquer him. When her 
 screw was lifted by her plunging a jarring tremor ran 
 through the ship, but like a thing of life with a goal m 
 view she went groaning, creaking, yet careering on. 
 One can recall but not relate how the wind shrieked 
 through her masts, spars and cordage. It may be weak- 
 ness, but to see^the sea rising above your ship like moun- 
 tainsand sweeping down as if anxious to engulf her, to 
 
18 
 
 see her rise momentarily as if by magic to escape certain 
 death, far above, to be plunged again into the deep, the 
 sea ever and anon breaking over, sweeping all mov- 
 able things from the deck alarms one for the time. 
 You know that death would not have to go far from his 
 course to take you. I was a little more fervent, if no 
 more sincere in my devotions. I renewed my pledges 
 of service, to greater length than at the usual hour of 
 prayer. Thursday morning the storm was gone and we 
 have since had tine weatiier. 
 
 Our ship, La Gascogne, is a gallant barque, four masts, 
 and iron irom mast to keel. Her entire length is 546 
 feet by 36 feet wide, capable of carrying 1,500 passengers 
 though there are less than three hundred on board. She 
 was built in 1886. She is a fast boat, has crossed from 
 New York to Havre in seven days. We expect to be 
 out eight days this.time. Her draught is 26 feet. When 
 at full speed, on a smooth sea she generates a wave on 
 either side about six feet high, the two aggregating in 
 bulk about what she displaces. These waves stand at an 
 angle of about 40 degrees, and between them and the 
 ship is jDerfectly smooth. She is driven by three massive 
 engines, aggregating eight thousand (8,000) horse power; 
 she burns one hundred and sixty tons of coal per day, 
 in thirtv-six furnaces. 
 
20 
 
 Fare on La Gascogne is high because the distance is 
 greater than to Glasgow or Liverpool, her ship's crew is 
 larger, and the line, ^'•Coniirig aie Geaeralc Tranmtlan- 
 tique,^^ to which she belongs, has a monopoly of the 
 travel from Xew York to Havre. She carried on this 
 trip three hundred pouches of United States mail. 
 
 The seabirds attended us all the way across. Some- 
 times they light on the wa.ter for a short while and rise 
 to pursue us again. What power of endurance must be 
 locked u}) in tlie tiny muscles ol their tireless wings. I 
 have 
 
 '•'Marked the seabird wildly wbeeHng through the skies," 
 
 and considered that, 
 
 ''God attends him, God defends him when he cries," 
 
 and felt secure. 
 
 You never get tired looking at the sea, it is so sugges- 
 tive, as well as so wonderful. The universal receptacle 
 of the washings of all continents, with their city sewer- 
 ages, and yet one of the great health giving powers of 
 the world ; all the rivers run into it, yet it is not full. 
 Its floor may be covered with the corpses of those who 
 have essayed to traverse its plains, yet it seems at times 
 harmless and inoffensive. You may become familiar 
 with a thousand of its secrets, yet ten thousand are 
 concealed, "emblem of the infinite God, vast, unsearch- 
 able, unknowable." Verilv, thev that go down to the 
 
 .... - ' -^ » 
 
 sea in ships, in time of storm, "See his wonders in the 
 
 mighty deep," 
 
 "When the Almighty's wrath is glassed in storms," 
 the highway of all nations, it in turn requires tribute of 
 
21 
 
 them all, type of the Maker's power, type of his love, as- 
 it enibnices every land, small and great, disbursing its 
 beneficence to all, inspirer of ambition, eloquence and 
 song, paralyzing with fear and dread, when Neptune 
 drives abroad to wreak vengeance on his foes, or sooth- 
 ing to happy dreams, when 
 
 "Rocked in the cradle of the deej)," 
 
 or one lounges in the shade, some quiet summer eveniug,- 
 near the beach, 
 
 "Down by the deep green sea." 
 
 What stories could it relate of piratical deeds, of lost 
 and starving crews, of bloody encounter, prosecuted by 
 ambitious thirst for power, covetous thirst for gold and 
 unholy revenge, and not a few of sighing lovers. 
 
 " Roll on thou deep and dark and wondrous ocean, roll." 
 
 I have formed some pleasant acquaintances ; an art 
 student who has studied in Naples, Rome and Germany, 
 and spent a year in New York, is on his Avay to the Ju- 
 lieu School in Paris ; two Greeks returning to Sparta, a 
 wealthy Italian, who promises to serve me in Turin, and 
 a Jewish Eabbi from Jerusalem. All these have spent 
 some time in America and acquainted me with many 
 facts relative to the objects of my tour. I have also had 
 the good fortune to be invited, while in Genoa, to the 
 house of an Italian importing merchant, who lives in the 
 same street Columbus did. There are many garrulous 
 Frenchmen aboard, but as yet I have not become ac- 
 quainted with any of them. 
 
 Yesterday and to-day we saw in the North two beau ti- 
 
22 
 
 f nl rainbows, their reflection on the surface of the water 
 reached almost to the ship. Our artist went into rap- 
 tures over them. He is sketching almost ever^^thing, 
 has got me down in black and white. 
 
 And I will tell our young readers how illustrative 
 sketches are made : first, outlines are made with an or- 
 dinary graphite pencil, these are filled with a pen and 
 ink, this is photographed on a plate of gelatine, making 
 a fac simile of the illustration, this plate is after this 
 submitted to acid treatment, when all is eaten otf except 
 the photographed impression, which now projects above 
 the other surface; from this is made the stereotype plate, 
 from which any number of pictures may be taken. 
 
 About 1 o'clock P. M., Sunday, the 8th day from Xew 
 York, La Goscogne dropped anchor a mile from the wharf 
 at Havre. But we did not go ashore till 4 P. M., when 
 we were told that the train then in waiting was the only 
 one that would carry us on our tickets to Paris. The al- 
 ternative was presented of losing the fare or traveling on 
 Sunday ; we reluctantly and perhaps unfortunately chose 
 the latter. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 FRANCE. 
 
 No one expects to go to Europe without visiting Paris. 
 She has learned to project herself into the thought of 
 every civilized people. As Apollo was consulted at 
 Delphi, the goddess of Fashion sits on the tripod and 
 dictates here. God Mars likewise has long held his court 
 here, in the cite in the Seine, and here only is learned the 
 par excellent code de Gidsine, (way to cook). 
 
 The transformations of her civil and social life exhib- 
 it all the variety of the kaleidoscope, now grave, now gay, 
 humorous, stocial, ancient, modern, full" of churches yet 
 irreligious, surpassing all others in contributing to life's 
 reliefs and indulgences, yet the most reckless in sacri- 
 ficing life, to-day it is vive la vol, to-morrow it is the 
 guillotine. Strange, beautiful, mysterious metropolis, 
 we will enter thy gates, Avalk thy streets and boulevards, 
 visit thy cathedrals, cimetieres and gardens, thy palaces, 
 towers and temples and briefly study thy pleasure-loving 
 people. It was 9 o'clock P. M., when we reached Paris. 
 It was Sunday and election day. Gen. Boulanger had 
 just defeated Jacques, Eadical. The citizens thronged 
 every square of the magnificently illuminated capitol, 
 and wild shouts rent the air at every item favorable first 
 to one contestant and then the other. Fatigued, we 
 sought our couch, but the enthusiasm without was un- 
 abated for hours. On going abroad next day we found 
 that Paris was painted red, yellow and green with large 
 
24 
 
 posters representing- the various claims of the rival can- 
 didates to represent the district of Seine in the House of 
 the Deputies ; at least one hundred thousand circulars 
 varying in size from four feet square and under were 
 posted in the city, and from what little French I am able 
 to read, I think the same methods are resorted to here to 
 defeat one's opponents as at home. The friends of one 
 candidate would cover the posters of his opponent with 
 their own ; these would be covered again until they 
 would be forty deep, one for Jacques, one for Boulanger 
 throughout. They were pasted on everything that would 
 hold them by the thoroughfares, but all were cleaned off 
 nicely on Monday. I made effort to visit the Senate and 
 House of Deputies also, but failed, as considerable red 
 tape is required, which I discarded, rather than lose the 
 time. 
 
 I visited the Place de la Bastile, which is occupied by 
 a monument commemorating the bravery of "French 
 Soldiers in 1827, 1828 and 1829." 
 
 The base and pedestal are marble, the column proper 
 is bronze, on top is a bronze figure representing the Ge- 
 nius of Liberty holding in one hand a torch, in the other 
 a broken chain, the ascent is by a spiral stairway of two 
 hundred and twelve steps, and from the top one has a 
 fine view of the city. There is an interesting history 
 connected with this column. It is on the site of the 
 prison by the same name, w^hich was built over five hun- 
 dred years ago by Kings Charles \. and VL, not used at 
 first for a prison, but afterwards was used to confine per- 
 sons of rank. It was destroyed at the beginning of the 
 French revolution, July, 1789. The present column was 
 well nigh destroyed by the commune in 1871. 
 
 Hotel de Ville is one of the finest buildings in the city. 
 
25 
 
 It contains the town hall and offices of the municipal 
 authorities, but is not yet completed on the interior ; the 
 facade is very imposing ; in niches of the second, third 
 and fourth stories are statues of the Celebrities of Pa- 
 risan history. Here also was a rallying point for the 
 revolutionists in 1789 ; to this place Louis XVI. came 
 from Versailles in procession, testifying his submission 
 to the will of the National i^ssembly. Here the two Hu- 
 guenot Chiefs died by order of Catherine de Medici, 
 after the massacre of St. Bartholomew. Here Foulon, 
 treasurer, and his son-in-law were hung to lamp-posts 
 during the Eevolution, and here perished many another 
 victim. 
 
 The Palais Royal is near by, built by Cardinal Riche- 
 lieu, in the early part of the seventeenth century. It 
 also is connected with many a tale of royal dissipation, 
 faithlessness and misery. It has been owned in turn by 
 French and German kings and people. It was also well 
 nigh burned down by the commune in 1871, but has 
 been since rebuilt. Here one sees the finest display of 
 jewelry in Paris; in one window are hundreds of 
 bracelets, selling at fancy prices; watches, chains, 
 charms, ear-rings, pins, etc., etc., with diamonds worth 
 thousands of dollars. They are arranged in rows, in 
 rings, in stars, in pyramids and all manner of fantastic 
 forms, all pleasing to the eye. Occasionally one sees the 
 sign, "English Spoken," but I find it often not so ; if 
 "one speaks English" you are the one, yet any of them 
 can make a trade ; in fact every article has marked on it 
 the price in francs. There are more restaurants here 
 than any other kind of shops, and living is cheap or 
 dear, according to what you wish. One can dine any- 
 where for five cents or five dollars, as one pleases. One 
 3 
 
26 
 
 notable thing about bread is that it is all baked alike, in 
 long, light rolls, one to five feet long. I have seen scores 
 of persons carrying bread in their arms, exactly as a boy 
 carries a turn of wood. Occasionally t is carried in 
 baskets, mostly in hand, arm or apron. Lee Merriwe- 
 ther remarked that they sell bread here "by the yard ;" 
 another author says by the "ell (as in Cambridgeshire 
 they sell butter by the yard)." 
 
 Paris contains a reading people, judging both from the 
 number of book-stores and news-stands, and the number 
 of papers published daily at one cent each. As far as I 
 could judge, I think much wine is drunk, but very little 
 whiskey or cognac. 
 
 I visited the churches of JSTotre Dame, St. Sulpice 
 and the Holy Sepulchre. St. Sulpice, a very large 
 structure, four hundred and sixty-two by one hundred 
 and eighty-three feet, by one hundred and eight feet 
 high, supported interiorly by thirty-two stupendous 
 columns rising to the height of seventy or eighty feet, 
 they support an arched ceiling of marble or stone. 
 This church contains eighteen chapels, beside a nave 
 where the faithful were worshiping during my visit; 
 this is the second oldest church in Paris, I^otre Dame 
 being the oldest. 
 
 This church is on the site of a church of the fourth 
 century; it was consecrated in 1182, but the nave was 
 not completed until the thirteenth century. The finest 
 part of the Cathedral is the facade facing the West ; the 
 three portals are adorned with the finest gothic work- 
 manship. There is one window in this church said to 
 he fifty-four feet high. Notre Dame is five hundred 
 and seventeen feet long, one hundred and fifty-six feet 
 wide, and the vaulting in the nave is one hundred and 
 
\ 
 
 27 
 
 ten feet high. It has passed through the revolution and 
 witnessed much bloodshed; within its portals reason 
 has been deified and the true light seemingly extinguish- 
 ed. To the credit of Napoleon it was opened, by his 
 order, for Divine worship again. 
 
 I spent a day in the Louvre, situated in a place once 
 infested by wolves, when this Avas a forest ; hence its 
 name. It covers several acres of land ; it contains the 
 largest collections of paintings in the world, besides a 
 large collection of relics from Babylon, Ninevah and 
 Egypt; immense Sarcophagi, Statuary Mummies, 
 etc. Here is a dinner table in mosaic, displaying 
 ducks and fatted fowl in gorgeous colors, yet the pieces 
 of stone of which they are made are often no larger 
 than a pin-head, many thousands of pieces are required 
 for one bird, yet the picture is complete in every detail, 
 and the surface of the table is as smooth as a pane of 
 glass. The cost must have been many thousands of dol- 
 lars. Among the Statuary I believe the Venus de Milo 
 is thought to be the best, though now time-worn and 
 abused by handling. 
 
 I spent much time in the Salle of the Italian School ; 
 a novice can discern the superiority of these in outline 
 and faultless blending of colors. One becomes intoxi- 
 cated with admiration, and dazed before the splendid 
 panoramas. 
 
 Passing still down the beautiful quay you enter the 
 Jardin des Tuilleries, once reserved for Royalty alone, 
 it is now a public esplanade, enjoyed by happy lovers, 
 gay soldiers, nurses and hundreds of romping children 
 rolling hoops, spinning tops, etc. Next is the Place die 
 Carousal, where Louis XIV. gave an equestrian ball, 
 1662, and where fetes have been held ever since. The 
 
28 
 
 Arc de Triomph now stands there, and is small in com- 
 parison with its surroundings. Next is the Court of the 
 Tuilleries which, with the Jardin, and Ebjsees Champs 
 transcends the most lofty ideas I had conceived of their 
 beauty, on farther at Place de Concorde, where thousands 
 of gay and idle denizens assemble every afternoon, is 
 the Obelisk brought from Egypt, with its silent elo- 
 quence. I turned aside to see the Panorama — siege of 
 Paris in 1870-1, but was disappointed ; it was inferior 
 as a work of art to the Battle of Bull Run, as seen in 
 Washington by the same artist, Poilpot. Up the same 
 Boulevard, one and one-half miles farther, though it 
 does not seem half a mile, is Arc d' Etoile, begun by 
 Napoleon I., after his Austrian campaign, and finished 
 twenty or thirty years later ; he is the only cognizable 
 figure on the facade. He is being crowned as a con- 
 queror. 
 
 I visited the Hospital des Invalides and saw many of 
 the wounded soldiers of their last war. Near by is the 
 Tomb of Napoleon I. which I did not enter, it being 
 closed, but which I presume is the most colossal tomb 
 that has been built in a thousand years. The dome and 
 cross on top are bronze ; around the silent chieftain hang 
 the tattered colors riven on many a gory field. A spell 
 hangs over the place and falls on the intruder into such 
 a presence. 
 
 I visited the cemetery Pere La Chaise, and saw the tomb 
 of Abelard and Heloise, whose pathetic history has been 
 read around the world. Their effigies lie in state upon 
 two sarcophagi under a small canopy, and if in life di- 
 vided, they are in death united. Here he many others 
 once famous in letters, eloquence and diplomacy. 
 
 The Palace of the Luxomburg, built by Mary de 
 
29 
 
 Medici is a magnificent structure combining Tuscan, 
 Doric and Ionic orders of architecture. It has been oc- 
 cupied by kings, consuls and socialists. It is now a 
 museum of art. 
 
 I was greatly interested in Jardin des Plantes, founded 
 by Louis XIII., where I spent a morning. Time would 
 fail to tell of the reptiles, fossils, birds, beasts, savage 
 and tame, carniverous, herbivorous and omnivorous. 
 Here were bears, lions, tigers, cats, hyenas, wolves, etc., 
 etc., from Africa, Asia and America; storks and cranes 
 tall as a man, pelicans, with sacks large enough to hold 
 a gallon under tljeir bills, ostriches, hawks, and the giant 
 condor from South America ; one white bird had a green 
 tuft on the back of its head from my stand point, like a 
 bunch of grass. Here are seals, antelopes, bison, rein- 
 deer, kangaroo, deer, zebras, etc., ad irtfinitu n. 
 
 The Jardin des Vivants Plat tes was closed, but one 
 could see the vast collections through the glass sides, 
 and by it a cedar of Lebanon about three feet in diameter. 
 
 I went to the markets and priced a good many things 
 to ascertain the comparative cost of a table support with 
 what it is in North Carolina. The difference is small. 
 The meats are of a fine quality. They have jack rabbits 
 three times as large as any in North Carolina, and they 
 are plentiful. 
 
 One is pleased with the fine Norman draught horses 
 used. One horse carries over a ton of coal, often two 
 tons on a cart, about the streets ; two horses haul ten to 
 twelve tierces of molasses often. On one omnibus forty 
 to fifty persons will go, drawn by two horses till a grade 
 is reached, when a third is hitched in. 
 
 I visited one branch of the McAll Mission and con- 
 versed with a missionary about another, Le Bruiin. 
 
30 
 
 They are prosecuting a vigorous work, have services 
 every day at the dispensary; free lectures are delivered 
 every day to the invalid poor, who receive free treat- 
 ment. Many young women are educated and afterwards 
 given employment, and homes are found for the destitute. 
 They claim that the school was asked of God in prayer 
 and given by Him in answer thereto — and in the ante- 
 room many verses of scripture are quoted on the walls 
 as proof of the legitimacy of their position, and which 
 all Christians with much experience can believe. They 
 are prosecuting a vigorous work and will be perceptibly 
 felt in that gangrenous capitol. 
 
 The weather was fair and considering the brevity of 
 my stay, I had a fine opportunity of studying French 
 outdoor city life. 
 
 They are a gay and contented looking people, and 
 notwithstanding the words, ^^Libertie, Egalitie, Fraterni- 
 tie,^^ are engraved or painted over the portals of every 
 public building the iron paling, fifteen feet high around 
 them, and the jail-like defences in front of private win- 
 dows tell that up to this time a commune was not only 
 a possibility, but a probability at any time. 
 
 The poor had a way of exposing themselves in order 
 to be hurt by passing vehicles, as they were supported 
 during convalescence. The custom became so general 
 as to require an ordinance fining anyone who was hurt 
 by such means. Of course few were found willing to 
 pay a fine for the luxury of being run over by a cab. 
 
 Hotel Haute Loire, 203 Boulevard Raspail and B. 
 Yard, Mt. Parnasse is a good one, and convenient to the 
 .Exposition grounds and places of most interest, and 
 English is really spoken. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 PARIS TO ITALY. 
 
 Having spent several days in Paris, visiting the various 
 places and objects th:it claim a stranger's notice, as the 
 Louvre, depository of the most famous works of Art 
 from the most ancient to modern times, Jardin des Plants, 
 where perhaps the largest collection of plants in the 
 world are to be seen, a very large exhibit of animals, 
 birds, reptiles, fossils, &c., &c., Jardin du Luxomhourg, 
 Tuilleries, Champs Elysees, Boulevards, Arches, Towers, 
 &c., &c., the most comprehensive exhibit of goods for the 
 shambles extant, I left this city so famed for displays, for 
 men of science, learning and war, for its lov.e of the beau- 
 tiful and blood for Italy. We soon ran into the green 
 gardens that feed the vast population on vegetables. We 
 see thousands of plants under glass vessels about gallon 
 measures, to protect them from cold, and going up the 
 Seine, we soon run into the wildest scenery, seemingly, 
 "where mortal foot hath ne'er or rarely been," but find 
 it is only a park which has doubtless been preserved by 
 the decendants of some feudal lord, it is here the large 
 hares of which we saw so many are grown. Up the 
 Seine we fly, now over a bridge now under one, all of 
 which are built of stone, beautiful villas adorn the brows 
 of the hills, and grassy meadows lie between, green to 
 the very water's edge, even in mid winter. We are now 
 at the head of navigation ; here is a dam thrown across, 
 ah, no, there is a lock, and boats can pass; here is 
 
32 
 
 another park and balsams and other evergreens are 
 thick ; we emerge from the forest and here is another 
 yilla, where once a Feudal Baron lived in State upon 
 the hard earnings of his serfs. Not all the griefs of the 
 feudal system are gone from republican France yet, as 
 the little patches of «jround, the thached roofs that cluster 
 about some pretentious mansion, as well as other facts 
 of modern history testify. We see the washer women 
 down by the river br.nk with their goods. This is tlie 
 custom both in France and elsewhere in Europe. I met 
 with the same trouble in leaving Macon that Lee Meri- 
 wether had in getting there, I could find no one speaking 
 English, nor any one who could understand my French, 
 ou est le convoi i^oar Modane T^ said I to a number of men ; 
 they would all tell me something, but I could not under- 
 stand, finally I got on the right one. The real trouble 
 was this ; I found the right train but the wrong side, 
 they would show me the one and motion round, I would 
 go round and try to take another and say, ici 'puiir 
 Modane ? One can enter the cars from only one side at 
 an}^ one station. Sleeping a few hours I awoke to look 
 out upon snow-capped rijountains. Soon we enter a 
 valley and the mountains begin to look higher and 
 higher, on we sweep through a dozen tunnels up a beau- 
 tiful, sinuous stream. We reach Lac de Bourget, a beauti- 
 ful sheet of water, cle ir as crystal with a greenthit at the 
 bottom that renders it with mountains bej^ond and strip 
 of fog and solitary fa m house and fiying duck all reflect- 
 ed on its quiet face a picture fit for any artist's pencil. 
 
 The public road up this valley surpasses anything of 
 its kind I have ever seen, graded as carefully as the 
 railroad with stones set to mark every mile, and round 
 *Wliere is the train for Modane ? 
 
33 
 
 stones every few feet to guard the trees planted every 
 twenty or thirty feet for shade in summer. I heartily 
 wish every road maker in America couid see it. The 
 bridges are all of stone or iron. 
 
 By the fails in the river beside the railroad, I know 
 we are risinii fast, as well as by the snow, which is now 
 deepening on the gromid. Thousands of feet above 
 the threatening craggs look down. High up as material 
 could be carried the mountaineer has fastened his cottage, 
 the eaves seeming to be buried in the mountain on the 
 upper side ; why they should have been put there, all 
 beyond being inaccessible, approach to them almost im- 
 possible — except to ihe birds or the chamois — is as great 
 a mystery as to tell how their children can be reared 
 without falling out of doors and rolling over the precipi- 
 ces to the valley below. Soon we will reach Mt. Cenis 
 tunnel, no, we stop at Modane till midnight. 
 
 Modane, at the State boundary, is a pretty httle 
 Italian town. I learn here the way they have of making 
 a passenger pay for his ticket and enough besides to pay 
 the government tax on the railroads ; five centimes above 
 the price stamped on the billet is the universal custom. 
 On the mountains around Modane many cannon frown 
 upon all the avenues of travel, defying any other Xapo- 
 leon to pass these mountains to surprise and capture a 
 lethargic land. 
 
 Custom-house officers, which are found at nearly every 
 town of any size, expect po^r bois, or drink money, for 
 the pains of searching through your baggage. I begin 
 to practice on these border Italians, with the purpose of 
 paying just as little cash for having my valise emptied 
 as possible, so I appear not to understand what they 
 mean. I say "English," "no understand." "iVo?i parlo 
 
ritaliano!" To all their pantomimes, which really mean,, 
 pay me a lira, I look like a dummy and pass on. 
 
 It is after midnight on the first day of February when 
 the cars leave Modane gave (station) heading towards 
 Turin. The ground is covered with snow, and our com- 
 partment is warmed up by two large zinc tanks half 
 filled with hot water. One can rest his feet on these and 
 keep warm ; they are changed about every two hours for 
 hotter ones. In case of an accident there would be no 
 danger of fire except from the lamps, but they are alto- 
 gether insufficient for warming travelers as our American 
 cars do. 
 
 There is a long step outside reaching the whole length 
 of the coach ; along this the officer running the train 
 sometimes walks to see if all is well, and in some Euro- 
 pean States to collect or punch the ticket. 
 
 There is a large number of officials at every station ; 
 only one or two employees on each train. The porters 
 and ticket collectors are at the stations. It is difficult 
 to leave the train without their aid. The advantage of 
 having them at the station is that fewer men can do the 
 work. 
 
 From Paris to Rome there is a train every hour or 
 two, and the same agents attend to them all, besides 
 doing local work. The cars have eight or ten doors 
 opening on the sides to compartments having two seats 
 each perpendicular to the course of the train, the pas- 
 sengers occupying them being vis-a-vis. The doors are 
 doubly fastened on the outside and one can scarcely 
 reach the fastening from within. When you wish to- 
 descend you have to beat the door and yell for a porter. 
 One is seldom asked for a billet (ticket) while aboard, but 
 when leaving the train the passenger has to pass througk 
 
35 
 
 a gate, where his ticket is demanded. In Italy without 
 a ticket one has to pay four times the price of one. If 
 one rides on a first class car when he has a second class 
 ticket, three times the difference between the fares is 
 required. So I learned from fellow travelers. The class 
 is marked in large Fs, thus : First class, I ; second class, 
 II; third class, III, on the door to each compartment. 
 
 Some trains are only first class throughout, others first 
 and second classes, again they are mixed, and when they 
 are the classes of coaches are mixed sure enough. They 
 are coupled together regardless of order, and the mail is 
 coupled in the rear. There are no conveniences on any 
 trains run for the public in Europe. 
 
 The style of these cars is favorable for murder or 
 robbery, being in compartments as elsewhere described, 
 so electric bells are provided in case of foul play, which 
 has occurred on some English railways. 
 
 At five o'clock, passing Mont Cenis tunnel, we are in 
 Turin, called by the Italians Turino, a beautiful city 
 and once the capital of Piedmont. We go from this, 
 place to Pisa and Florence. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 GENOA— ''PEARL OF THE SEA: 
 
 About sun up we reached the Po, on whose classic 
 banks still weep the unhapjjy sisters of the rash, unfor- 
 tunate Pha?ton, who, alternately freezing and scorching 
 the earth while driving the chariot of the Sun, was cast 
 by JoYe down headlong into this stream. At least Ovid 
 so told us when a boy. We ascend a ravine down which 
 plunges a beautiful rivulet, on whose banks are many 
 villages, through another tunnel about two miles long, 
 .and down another gorge towards Genoa, called by the 
 Italians Genova. It is the wealthiest city in Italy, con- 
 taining with its suburbs 180,000 people. Half of the 
 males of proper age are soldiers ; half of the male pas- 
 sengers on the cars are soldiers. 
 
 On reaching Genoa I was met at the traiu by , a 
 
 host of porters, and men and boys wanting to help me, 
 ready to take one's valise, either with or without his 
 permission. 
 
 The first thing that greets one's eye on entering the 
 street is the statue erected to Christopher Columbus, the 
 figure of America kneeling at the base of the statue, and 
 the allegorical figures of Peligion, Geography, Strength 
 ^nd Wisdom seated around, and between which are re- 
 liefs of scenes from the discoverer's life. It was built 
 .about twenty-seven years ago. 
 
 I worshiped on Sunday at the English church, and 
 
heard an average sermon from Math. 8:24, after which I 
 introduced myself to the rector and inquired about 
 Protestant religion in Grenoa. He and a Presbyterian 
 minister have four churches which are useful chiefly in; 
 affording seamen and travellers with church privileges.. 
 Italians do not take to Protestants. To their mind it is 
 like "carrying coals to New Castle." I heard the Wal- 
 densian preacher, however, preach a sermon in Italian to 
 a crowded house, and the Holy Spirit seemed to rest on 
 him and his people throughout the service. 
 
 I was favorably impressed with the Genoese; there is 
 quite a contrast between them and the French ; if any- 
 thing they are more ostentations, and are a much better 
 looking people. 
 
 And historians say all their energies have been con- 
 centrated on making money, whence it has come to pass 
 that she is the wealthiest city in all Italy. She has not 
 been rich in the Arts nor Sciences, but has contributed 
 indirectly to their encouragement. 
 
 Some say Genoa derives its name from the likeness of 
 the bay on which it is built to a knee, called in Latin, 
 genu. The mountains press close down upon the sea,, 
 giving but little level land on which to build, but if 
 they could not build wide they certainly built high. 
 The average height of the buildings of the entire city is 
 probably six stories. Many of the streets are very nar- 
 row, not over eight feet wide. 
 
 The police of Genoa are a very fine looking set of 
 men ; they dress finely, wearing silk hats and their 
 clothes cut in the latest styles. Both in Paris and 
 Genoa a peculiar kind of dray is used — two long skids^ 
 say thirty feet long, between which at one end stands. 
 
38 
 
 the horse, for jSB^j are both for shafts and body to the 
 dray, are bal»ced on the axle about two feet apart, and 
 braced togeimer from end to end ; on these poles or 
 scantlings t^e load of boxes, bags or barrels will be 
 packed to the amount of two or three tons. When the 
 load is too heavy for one horse another is hitched in 
 front of him, a third in front of the second, and so on. 
 Such gearing is inconvenient, and often on turning cor- 
 ners the horse next to the load is thrown down, often the 
 load pitching forward preventing him from rising. No 
 place on earth needs a law preventing cruelty to animals 
 worse than Genoa. 
 
 I arrived on Saturday — blue Saturday. I was amazed 
 to see thousands of windows full of clothes hung out to 
 dry, until I reflected, there is no where else to dry them, 
 except by the fire. So it was the raggedest town I ever 
 saw. While Genoa is so wealthy the majority of her 
 citizens are poor. There is little to do. I saw nothing 
 to indicate that they were lazy. On the wharves men 
 stood around waiting for ships to come in, anxious for a 
 job. Others Avere sweeping the streets for the sweepings. 
 There were few or no gossiping groups. They are 
 striving to improve their people morally, have many 
 institutions of charity, asylums for destitute children 
 and abandoned women, and a statute was enacted during 
 my sojourn with a view^ of suppressing as far as j)0ssi- 
 ble the existing lewdness. Copies of this ordinance were 
 carried tlyough every street next day and thousands of 
 copies distributed. 
 
 I should not have been able to glean so many facts 
 but for the kindness of the Italian merchant previously 
 referred to. He showed me the churches and explained 
 
39 
 
 the events connected with them — the monuments, walls, 
 palaces, and the institutions of the city. I saw the 
 house Columbus was born in, and also that which his 
 father was bom in ; they are near together. The first 
 is seven stories high, while those on either side are eight. 
 It has a brown stuccoed front, and is perhaps 1,000 
 years old. Near by are the old city walls, on which for 
 some years hung the chains taken from subjugated Pisa, 
 but restored when Italia was united under one govern- 
 ment, and which I saw hanging in Campo Santo at Pisa. 
 In a small museum here are exhibited the instruments of 
 torture used during the inquisition, and life-like figures 
 in wax showing the marks made upon martyrs of those 
 days; one for clipping off the end of- the tongue, one 
 with iron teeth in a band fitting around the head, the 
 band being in two sections with arms like tongs, which 
 enabled the one using it to apply lever power for pressing 
 the iron teeth into the skull, chills the beholder's blood. 
 The church of St. Lorenzo is built of alternate layers 
 of black and white marble, the interior is finely decora- 
 ted with paintings and statuary and is very impressive. 
 This church is said to contain the body of John the 
 Baptist in a gold coffin, taken from the Venetians, By 
 paying one of the sextons a small fee he will take you 
 around to the rear of the chapel of St. John (the church 
 contains several chapels) even during service there, strike 
 a match which makes even more weird the ghostly light 
 of the place and explain how that this (marble) coffin is 
 not the other (gold) one, that contains the real body of 
 John, and for the privilege of seeing which you paid 
 your money, and which can be shown by him after the 
 visitor, by much ceremony, obtains a special permit. As 
 we expected to visit several other cities where John Bap- 
 
40 
 
 tist has bodies, we desisted from further effort to see- 
 this one. 
 
 St. ximbrose is the oldest and wealthiest church in the 
 city, and had many worshipers in its chapels during our 
 yisit on Monday. 
 
 The Exchange was about as busy as that in Xew York, 
 though not so wild ; here is the marble statue of Cavour, 
 the great statesman, who died endeavoring to unite his 
 countrymen into one commonwealth. He triumphed, 
 but like most others whose lives are given to the develop- 
 ment of great schemes, he did not live to realize the- 
 benefit of his endeavors. He is represented as seated, 
 giving counsel. It w^as for a long time the dream of 
 Italian statesmen to unite their country, but the diffi- 
 culties of locomotion previous to railroads, together with 
 local prejudices and popular ignorance forbade the fea- 
 sibility of such a project. The application of steam to 
 facilitate and so to multiply production, travel and com- 
 merce will not only unite larger territories, but establish 
 a widespread homogeneity, gradually introducing similar 
 manners the world over. Clothing houses in London 
 now stipply retailers in all the large cities of the world. 
 The shoes worn here now would be styled by a certain 
 modern Southern evangelist " tooth-picks." 
 
 The toga of the ancient Roman is modernised into a 
 cloak or talma reaching to the knees and folding twice 
 in front of the wearer, the border passing over the 
 shoulder and falling down the back. They look grace- 
 ful. 
 
 Costa Agostino, my Italian friend, gained admission 
 for me into some of the principal palaces. We visited 
 that of Duke Galiera, who gave 24,000,000 lirae to im- 
 prove the harbor by building about a mile of break- 
 
41 
 
 water. It was made of stone and blocks of hydraulic 
 lime and sand weighing some twenty tons each. This 
 wall rises nearly thirty feet above the level of the sea 
 and is about thirty feet broad. Result : one of the 
 best harbors in the world, while it is the busiest in 
 Italy. The walls are in two sections, between which 
 vessels enter port. 
 
 The authorities have police cruising near the shore 
 all the time to protect the fish from dynamiters. 
 
 Galiera's wife built the hospital of St. Andrew, cap- 
 able of succoring two thousand inmates, I judge, at one 
 time. 
 
 The palace of Spinola on Via Roma contains the por- 
 trait of Andrew Doria, once the Princeps of Liguria, also 
 his statue in marble, together with portaits of a dozen of 
 their pristine chiefs; bird's eye views of the principal 
 cities of Italy are painted on the walls of the upper 
 halls. It is used for government offices partly. 
 
 I saw the daughter of the woman who saved Gari- 
 baldi by concealing him three days in* her house. A 
 marble slab above the door in piazza di Sarzano marks 
 the place. It happened thus : He advocated a republic ; 
 the King sought his life ; he hid in the house of a coal- 
 seller ; on the third day he shaved, put on the coal deal- 
 er's clothes, took a bag of coal on his shoulder, passed 
 out the city gates and was safe. 
 
 The Mazzini palace is the Palais Royal^of Genoa.. The 
 exhibits there quite equal those of Broadway, N. Y. 
 
 They have a small but very pretty park in the center 
 of the city called Vilatta di Nigro. From the elevated 
 summit of this beautiful place I first saw the blue Med- 
 iterranean, whose history would be almost a history of 
 the world. As I gazed I pondered on stories of Jason 
 4 
 
42 
 
 and of Jonah, of Xerxes and the Greeks, of Troy and 
 Anchises' Son, of the Phoenicians, Syracusans, Cartha- 
 ginians and Colombo. 
 
 Millions may rest in the Necropoles of Egypt, but 
 who could number the shipwrecked victims asleep with 
 the Mermaids there ! 
 
 In this park is the statue of Joseph Mazzini in 
 marble, twenty feet high, and the equestrian statue of 
 Victor Emmanuel, the first King of United Italy. 
 
 Leaving Genoa the road winds through the Riviera 
 towards Leghorn for three or four hours nearly half the 
 time under-groand, suddenly you dart out into a villa 
 prettier than any picture, and scores of them rivalling 
 any residences on Fifth Avenue adorn the hills facing 
 the sea. 
 
 The grandeur of such scenery is more easily imagined 
 than described in which beetl'ng crags, barren or 
 crowned with verdant shrubbery now swing over our 
 flying coach, now are penetrated by it or recede far up 
 in proud disdain, the terraced sides and valleys between, 
 clad in vines, olives and chestnuts, while on our right 
 the sea in mimic combat charges almost into the win- 
 dows of our car, but the surf is lost in spray or recedes, 
 to be swallowed up, the sun sinks into the gilded bosom 
 of the deep and the kaleidoscope revolves to show by 
 twilight's milder ray what "Heaven hath done for this 
 delightful land." We leave the coast run up the Arno 
 and are soon in Pisa, where we stop for a day. 
 
CHAPTER VI, 
 
 PISA, FLORENCE. 
 
 All the way from Alessandria to Pisa the most luxu- 
 Tiant o-ardens are to be seen. I counted thirteen differ- 
 ent kinds of green salad in one near Genoa and haA^e seen 
 scores like it. 
 
 Pisa is an average looking city with massive walls and 
 iron gates, still kept closed at night, as when they were 
 a republic, or a kingdom. Pisa, you know, was founded 
 by Pelops, the grand-son of Jove, and son of Tantalus 
 ^nd Phrygia, and was once the most war-like of any of 
 the Italian states. They whipped the Greeks once at 
 Constantinople. She boasts the oldest university of 
 any country, giving to the world Galileo. 
 
 His lamp still swings in the Duomo ; but has 
 never suggested a new idea to a mortal since. There 
 are four buildings which all foreigners passing this way 
 think it worth while to visit. The Duomo, the Leaning 
 Tower, the Baptistery and the Campo Santo. 
 
 The Duomo was built largely of the spoils of the Sara 
 €ens of Palermo, in the expedition undertaken A. D. 1063. 
 There are seventy-two columns in the interior of the 
 church, of granite and marble; vast amounts of verde 
 antique laplslazuli, porphtjry^ bronze and gilt adorn this 
 temple. The design is by Michael Angelo, and is 
 in the shape of a Latin cross, the style is a mix- 
 
44 
 
 ture of the Grecian and Arabic. The floor is marble- 
 mosaic — curious designs ; ceiling black and gilt ; the 
 main altar is separated from the nave by a marble balus- 
 trade about seven feet high; within is a black cross- 
 with the figure of Christ upon it, suspended from the 
 ceiling about sixty or seventy feet. The cross is about 
 four by six feet. There is a marble piazza about tAventy 
 feet wide all round the outside of the Duomo, and the 
 green grass in the campus renders the whole a fresh and 
 pleasing object to the eye. 
 
 Immediately to the rear of the Duomo is the Baptis- 
 tery, built by one florin from every citizen of the repub- 
 lic in the thirteenth century. Here is a large font of 
 Parian marble and one of the finest pulpits in the world. 
 The peculiar attraction of this structure is the echo: 
 sing a few notes and pause, and they are heard far up in 
 the dome, and after a few moments still farther up, but 
 fainter ; so, says a gifted writer, " good deeds, hardly 
 noted in our grosser atmosphere, awake a divine echo in 
 the far world of spirits." 
 
 We went from the Baptistery to Campo Santo (sacred 
 camp, or cemetery). The earth in the old portion be- 
 tween the walls was brought from Jaffa, when the Tus- 
 can Knights made their memorable pilgrimage to the 
 Holy Land : it was jout in their boats for ballast ; it is 
 claimed that it will decompose any human body in two 
 days. The walls around this form a rectangle and dis- 
 play many frescoes of the fourteenth century, with sixty- 
 tw^o Gothic arcades. 
 
 I had always thought the Leaning Tower was on a 
 hillside and leaned toward the West ; it is in a great 
 plain, as is the whole city, and leans toward the South. 
 I ascended to the top, where Galileo so often surveyed 
 
LEANING TO AVER OF PISA. 
 
46 
 
 the planetary worlds. The whole is of marble and gran- 
 ite. There is nothing to prevent one from falling from 
 the first seven stories except about eight feet of railing 
 in front of the doors. The top has an iron rail all the 
 way round. Here one has a fine view of the Carrara 
 mountains, supplying a good quality of marble, of the 
 winding course of the Arno to the sea and upwards 
 many miles towards Florence, the city lies at our feet. 
 
 Just out of Pisa we noticed factories making cotton 
 cloth, of all the gaudy styles. 
 
 Nearly all of the rich, alluvial bottom land of the 
 Arno from Pisa to Florence, (called here Firenze) is 
 planted in grapevines. The land is laid off by ditches 
 into irregular rectangles ; on each side is a row of trees, 
 cut off six to ten feet high and allowed to grow, but kept 
 cut short; these support the vines and at the same time 
 supply thousands of twigs, annually, for willow-ware ; be- 
 tween the ditches, say forty yards, the land is cultivated 
 in wheat, gardens, &c. They turn it mostly with a spade. 
 They drive heifers large as ordinary oxen ; also a car-load 
 of them was being shipped, all milk-white. 
 
 At Florence many donkeys are driven to buggies and 
 drays ; the horses are all, or nearly all, very poor, and 
 seemed to be driven almost to death, and poorly fed. 
 
 Their dogfs are all either muzzled when on the streets 
 or led by their masters or mistresses. I saw, for the first 
 time a woman in our hotel here smoking a cigar. In all 
 the cities visited since leaving New York, nearly every 
 square has little booths where all the papers of the nation 
 are on sale. These are a reading people, they have doz- 
 ens of book-stores and libraries ; every cafe is expected 
 to have a dozen papers on the tables for customers to read 
 while sipping their coffee, milk or wine. All their daily 
 
47 
 
 papers sell for one cent each. It is only a question as 
 to who holds the helm, to determine whither the ship 
 wdll drive. 
 
 There are many unsettled questions in Italy yet, but 
 the decline of the papal power is not one of them, and 
 looking at papal Italy in one of her strongest holds, I 
 do not think any great nation of the world has anything 
 to fear from this source, excei:)t that deadness to spiritu- 
 ality w^iich seems to rest on her votaries. Compromis- 
 ing on forms, she gives ease to the conscience of many 
 who are spiritually dead. 
 
 At S. Spirito Annunziata to-day, filled with worship- 
 pers, many on their knees, followed visitors around the 
 church with their eves ; one man on his knees was talk- 
 ing to another standing up. One no doubt pious wo- 
 man dropped her penny into the contribution box, by 
 the door, and stooj^ed and kissed it as she retired. 
 
 This church and the Duomo have remarkable re- 
 sounding qualities, and the priests with their choristers 
 and responsive readings, make a noise about equal to a 
 dozen hives of swarming bees. 
 
 The church, whose worship is a strange compound of 
 Jewish and Pagan customs, and whose doctrines pander- 
 to all the natural propensities of fallen human nature,, 
 has run to great extremes. I was rej^roved by a Catho- 
 lic for singing, " Let the Saviour in," as wanting in rev- 
 erence. Yet he frequently took God's name in vain, 
 and swore continually. He was, however, no doubt, 
 sincere in his reproof. 
 
 The Duomo engaged the greatest architects known to 
 fame. Across the street from the Dom two figures in mar- 
 ble are seated, one holding a trestle-board on which de- 
 signs of the building are drawn and at which his eyes are 
 
48 
 
 gazing as if he contemplated changes. This is Brunel- 
 leschi. Hard by this sits Michael Angelo, with face up- 
 turned towards the dome. He studies it as a model for 
 St. Peters. 
 
 We went to St. Croce to look upon the tombs of the 
 Popes, Cardinals, Poets, Sculptors, Architects and great 
 men whom the Italians and Catholics have delighted to 
 honor. We found the inscriptions on many a grave- 
 stone worn smooth by the feet of many visitors. Gali- 
 leo's tomb is a sarcophagus of variegated marble. He 
 sits on it with telescoj^e in hand, and gazes into the 
 heavens. 
 
 " In Santa Croce' s lioly precincts lie 
 
 Ashes which make it holier, dust which is, 
 Even in itself, an immortality. 
 
 Though there were nothing save the past and this, 
 The particle of those sublimities 
 
 Which have relapsed to chaos : here repose 
 Angelo's, Alfieri's bones, and his. 
 
 The starry Galileo, with his woes ; 
 
 Here Machiavelli's earth returned to whence it rose. 
 
 We do the Uffizzi, Palatine, Buornorotti, Ancient and 
 Modern gsMeries, the Piazzas, Gardens, (fee. I will let the 
 Rev. J. M. Buckley, D. D., Editor of The Christian Ad- 
 vocate, New York, who was iii Florence about the same 
 time as myself, and who calls this city the shrine of 
 Art, Science and Literature, speak for me as to the im- 
 pression made by Florentine galleries. He says : 
 
 " After several days spent in the galleries and palaces of 
 Florence I found my eyes 'dim with excess of light" and 
 my mind in a confused state — basins of porphyry, por- 
 traits of Samson, banners of Italian cities, mosaics and 
 ceilings painted in imitation of mosaics, "Judith and Holo- 
 
49 
 
 femes,, Madonnas and saints without number, the Magi, Ve- 
 nus, Bacchus, St. Paul, Csesar, tombs, cherubs, Laocoons, satyrs 
 with gaps in their teeth, Cupids on a dolphin, Amazons 
 lighting, small gray birds with red crests, heads of the Medusa 
 death of Virgin Mary, angels with mandolin, massacre of inno- 
 cents, Luther's wife, kings on horseback, gamblers struck by 
 lightning, columns of oriental alabaster, vases of rock crys- 
 tal, portraits of popes and cardinals and of Pluto, men with 
 apes upon their shoulders, boar hunts, ancient bronze helmets, 
 spurs, lamps, old manuscripts, vaulted aisles and statues of the 
 archangel Michael, all thrown together, with the names of Van 
 Dyck, Reubens, Correggio, Raphael, Da Vinci, and Titian in- 
 discriminately applied to them. I was intoxicated with art. 
 But after a few days my vision clarified, and there came out a 
 score of paintings and statues as distinctly impressed upon the 
 mind's eye as the most vivid perception of the physical orb- 
 All the rest is lost in the milky way of finite memory, but those 
 which remain will shine on until the canopy is darkened with 
 the shadowing of the oblivion in which our most delightful 
 sensations, as well as those which are painful, are lost." 
 
 By a fortunate accident I was permitted to see Pitti 
 Palace, where the King resides, when in Florence; the 
 walls of each room are covered with silk, and the color 
 and design of each is different. The upholstery corre- 
 ponds with the finish of the walls, which in the King's 
 bed-room is lemon-colored silk, filled with rich designs ; 
 the Ball-room, King's Reception, Bed-room, Budoir, and 
 Throne-room, the Queen's Reception-room and Bed- 
 room, the ro^yal Dining-room with chairs set for sixty- 
 six were shown ; Victoria and Dom Pedro et alii ate 
 here last year at a great reception given by Humbert 
 I. We were shown through the rooms of the Prince of 
 Naples, then through the archives, in which were stored 
 thousands of pieces of gold and silver plate. 
 
 The day was done and returning to our hotel we 
 queried, "Will the world ever get what it needs?" viz : 
 
50 
 
 Men of brains and prestige and means to go to work for 
 man? Yes, possibly these will be forthcoming, when the 
 church and society following shall put a proper pre- 
 mium on that kind of labor, rather than on a selfish 
 monopolizing, yet tipping plutocracy. 
 
 Only let Christians of means indicate in their inter- 
 course with the poor that the religion of Christ is a 
 source of more enjoyment than earthly possessions, that 
 a man's life consisteth not in the abundance of things 
 possessed, but in enjoying sunshine, air, water, sleep, 
 digestion, domestic affection, social intercourse and in 
 mutual service, in serving one's generation according 
 to the will of God, and a simple reliance upon the 
 Lord Jesus Christ for everlasting life. Let it be shown 
 until the restless striker shall see that there is no monop- 
 oly of all the best things and cannot be. 
 
 How many more decades will poor human society tor- 
 ture her children before the Golden Rule so well fitted, 
 if obeyed, to perfect all conditions of society, will be 
 read and believed? 
 
 Let those with the light lead the way. 
 
LOGGIA DEI LANZI— FLOKENCE. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 I must also see Rome.— PawZ. 
 
 From Florence to Rome is about six hours on the fast 
 train ; I found a good hotel near the station, [ind set 
 out to see Rome, old and new, in company with Dr. 
 Tagert, of Chicago. We started first to St. Peter's, the 
 largest church on earth. The Egyptian obelisk seen in 
 front of the church is 82 feet 9 inches high, and is said 
 to be the only ancient monument in Rome that has not 
 been overthrown. The entire outlay for columns, foun- 
 tains, buttresses, statues of saints, of which there are 
 162, with the pavement in front of the church was over 
 $1,000,000. 
 
 Before the end of the 17th century this church had 
 ■cost $50,000,000 ; the new sacristy cost 8950,000 ; the 
 yearly expense is $37,500; and the church is not yet 
 done. But one is met on the threshold, in the aisles, 
 under the colonnades and on all sides by filthy and 
 Tagged beggars, and that in abundance. 
 
 In the gallery is a bronze statue of Hercules, for 
 which Pope Pius IX gave Baron Righetti 268,000,750 
 francs, about $53,200,150, and it was impossible tor me 
 to separate the idea of such extravagance and luxury 
 from the existing want and ignorance of the bulk of 
 the Romish church and (!atholic Italy. It is but one of 
 many thousands of the statues, paintings and relics 
 
53 
 
 that crowd the galleries and museums of the Vaticaru 
 palace, purchased at enormous prices. 
 
 Rafael and Angelo gave all their genius to the church- 
 Not only the dome of St. Peter's but the Sistine chapel 
 belongs to the latter, and the Loggia and St mza of the 
 Vatican to the former, with thousands of feet of canvas 
 besides. I saw no picture anywhere more eloquent 
 than Rafael's Transfiguration. The Church of Rome 
 honored her sons, as she still makes immortal the writer 
 of fiction who knows how to weave in his web some 
 threads of which Nun's veils are made. It is a source 
 of comfort to belong to a church that has not turned 
 aside from constantly proclaiming God's will to exhaust 
 its vitality upon political schemes and its resources in 
 gorgeous mausoleums above its fallen leaders. 
 
 From the Vatican we visited the tomb of Tasso, and 
 were shown his chairs, table, desk and the leaden coffin 
 in which he was said to have rested for three hundred 
 years, (this we doubted as it seemed too small.) 
 
 We concluded the day with a visit to Piazza Pincio, and 
 a visit to the Colosseum by moonlight. I have visited 
 the Colosseum four or five times and the grandeur of the 
 the structure grows on one at every visit. But looking 
 at this amphitheatre of Vespasian, there is no good 
 ground now for the lines so often quoted by tourists : 
 
 "While stands the Colosseum, Rome shall stand 
 
 When falls the Colosseum Rome shall fall, 
 
 And when Rome falls, with it shall fall the world." 
 
 For all the might}^ group that cluster about the Forum 
 speak from their desolation, and speak loudly that all. 
 the unhallowed toil of man shall perish. 
 
 If one could describe how entire the ruin here how 
 
55 
 
 great the change, it would be difficult to gain the 
 credence of the reader and impossible to give any ade- 
 quate conception of it. Standing on the brow of the 
 Capitoline hill and looking South-east what an array of 
 fallen greatness rises before the eye! To the South is the 
 Palatine hill, with ruins of the palaces of the Ca3sars, at 
 our feet stands the column of Septimus Severus over 
 the Via Sacra, the column of Phocas the tyrant, Byron's 
 ^'nameless column without a base," (that being buried 
 when he wrote his poem.) Here are remains of the 
 Temple of Concord, Temple of Vespasian, Portions, Tem- 
 ple of Saturn, Rostra, Senate House, where "Great 
 Caesar fell," Forum Romanorum, Temple of Castor and 
 Pollux, Rostra Julia, Temple of the Vestal Virgin, Tem- 
 ple of Julius Csesar, Temple of Antoninus and Faustinae, 
 Temple of Rome and of Venus, Arch of Titus, Arch of 
 Constantino and the Colosseum all are open to the eye 
 at a glance. Of the hundreds of columns which once 
 supported fretted frieze and cornice of marble, porphyr}^ 
 lapislazuli or giallo antico or bronze scarcely one re- 
 mains intact; one sees granite and marble columns four 
 and five feet in diameter broken up into sections of every 
 length from one foot to twenty. I cannot conjecture how 
 the iconoclast performed his task so thoroughly, but it is 
 done, was it of God ? 
 
 In one minutes walk of the Forum is the Mamartine, 
 traditional, prison of St. Peter and St. Paul, you are 
 shown the indenture made by Peter's head in the stone, 
 the spring of miraculous origin, at which they baptised 
 converts, the stone pillar to which they were chained, 
 &c. It was in this same subterranean vault that Catiline 
 was strangled, there is a passage leading under ground 
 from it to the Forum. 
 
56 
 
 Of course I visited the churches that contamthe head 
 of St. Matthew and the teeth and fingers of Sts. Paul 
 and Peter, the stone that shows the foot-prints of the 
 Saviour, Peter's bones and table and Paul's house in the 
 church of St. Sebastian, the Scala Sancta, where several 
 monks were ascending on their knees as Martin Luther 
 was doing when the truth illuminated his soul. Our 
 readers will remember these are called sacred because it 
 is claimed that they are the steps on which Jesus as- 
 cended to Pilate's judgment hall, they are marble, cov- 
 ered partially with w-ood and are twenty-eight in num- 
 ber. 
 
 There are many hundreds of Catholic priests here ; 
 they all w^ear long robes or frocks, much like female 
 attire, except the binding at the waist ; some of them 
 go barefoot, except sandals ; some wear ropes around 
 their waists, and all look serious. Hundreds of them 
 are young theologues. Rome is papal. The spirit of 
 Christianity has modified the current of civilization 
 here chiefly from without, I think. The refined self- 
 ishness of other days, the bloody a3stheticism that could 
 bind Prometheus to the rock, if forsooth the last shadow 
 borne to the visage from the expiring soul might be 
 transmuted to canvass, expresses itself now otherwise. 
 If a dominant animalism found expression in Templum 
 Veneris and the Thermae of Caracalla, and if the Colos- 
 seum and its myriads of victims, savage and human, 
 rej^resented the tragedic, and Rome in flames the me- 
 lodramatic Romans of other years, there is now the 
 anomaly of a Christian nation, the mother of the rest, 
 with resources in the ends of the earth, literally giving 
 her children stones (to gaze at), when they ask for 
 bread, and contrary to the expectation of the Book she 
 
57 
 
 holds in her hand, minimizes life's necessities hy turn- 
 ing plow-shares into swords. 
 
 During our stay a revolt was threatened. The people, 
 exasperated, hungry and restless, determined to change 
 affairs from statu quo. The mob created quite an ex- 
 citement, by breaking out some windows and threat- 
 ening further mischief; but the military being on hand 
 all soon became quiet, and many of the insurgents were 
 shipped to the country. 
 
 The dazzling splendor of kings, the pageantry of 
 power, as set forth in the world's cumulating history, 
 represent much oppression, much blood and tissue 
 vainly consumed, the counterpart exhibits rags for 
 robes, ignorance and ignominy, instead of knowledge 
 and glory. 
 
 The factors whence these antipodal extremes have 
 sprung are abuse of official prerogative above and mis- 
 use of God-given prerogative and endowment below. 
 
 A notice posted in every museum, palace, gallery or 
 garden forbids, in four languages, the giving of gratui- 
 ties, but we have found only one who refused; the fact 
 is, many of these bankrupt lords are supported by these 
 same gratuities. Sometimes the keeper gets more than 
 he exj^ects and thanks profusely : again, receiving less 
 he looks grum. The common people have become so 
 used to servility and meniality that they seem to have 
 no conception of self-respect, and a gentleman dressed 
 like a lord will take a soldi, one cent, and thank you as 
 if it were a dollar. We hired a carriage to take us to the 
 Catacombs of St. Calistus, on the Appian way, one and a 
 half miles from the city, our guide contracted with us 
 for two liras but required three at settling time, we j^aid 
 him, but took his number and left him ; he soon came 
 
58 
 
 running after us, to pay back what was due us : On the 
 way we visited the church of San Sebastiano, said to con- 
 tain the impress of Jesus' foot when he met Peter about 
 to fly from martyrdom. Peter said, Doniine quo vadisf 
 Whither goest thou? Jesus replied, "To Rome to be 
 crucified again." Peter turned back. The semblance of 
 of a track is shown, also St. Sebastian's body in stone 
 stuck full of arrows. 
 
 This church is at the entrance to the Catacombs of the 
 same name, but as they are all alike we only visited one. 
 These subterranean passages are said to aggregate five 
 hundred miles, cut through tufa stone about thirty 
 inches wide, they have receptacles on either side for re- 
 ceiving the dead, one recess above another like shelves 
 in a store; often all that is left of the corpse is a white 
 streak in the dust where the last bone mouldered back 
 to the earth whence it sprung. These corridors often 
 intersect one another, and occasionally open suddenly 
 into an underground chapel where the early Christians 
 used to worship, when Rome was in the hands of the 
 Caesars. 
 
 The author of Ben Hur says they were constructed 
 with Ben Hur's gold, as an asylum for persecuted 
 Christians, and some think they used it as a cemetery 
 to prevent cremation. No guide will touch one of these 
 bones on pain of excommunication. 
 
 St. Peters looks magnificent from the grounds. 
 
NAPLES, BAY, VESUVIUS. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 NAPLES.— ''WANTON BEAUTY: 
 
 Naples is renowned for its close relations to Hercu- 
 laneum and Pompeii rather than for its own achieve- 
 ments. Its population in 1885, was considerably over 
 half a million. While there are other characteristics 
 peculiarly Neapolitan, observable in the priests, mer- 
 chants and merchandise, artisans and the humblest 
 citizens, there are fewer large and princely palaces. 
 While they have some very elegant squares and foun- 
 tains, they are very limited in number. They have 
 excellent street cars and a carriage any moment to take 
 one to any part of the city for una lira (20 cents.) Like 
 all the cities we have visited, they seem to have excel- 
 lent police regulations. But the beggars are legion; 
 
60 
 
 some of our party have suggested that if you look at 
 many of them they expect a gratuity. They are brought 
 up to it from childhood. 
 
 Sometimes in a very thickl}^ settled part of the city a 
 dozen children will beset one, crying ^^signor! signor! 
 datemi soldi! datemi soldiP'' (give me a cent) ; the philo- 
 sophy of their conduct is this, if they get something, it 
 is so much made ; if not, nothing is lost, and this dis- 
 position to beg grows with their growth. There are 
 quite a number of merchants here who have a sign, 
 prezzofissi, price fixed ; many others who will sell you a 
 piece of goods for one lii^a, tie it up and declare it is two 
 liras. Only to-day we took luncheon at a restaurant, 
 inquired the price of coffee before ordering, was told so 
 much, when we were ready to settle it was double. An 
 incident which occurred one day in a restaurant whither 
 we had gone for coffee, illustrates one or two phases of 
 Italian city life. Hotels sometimes give their guests 
 only lodging, sometimes breakfast, and sometimes all 
 three meals. We were at one of the former kind, to 
 which the restaurant mentioned was attached. We had 
 called for coffe lotte, coffee with milk, and knew not why 
 we had to wait so long, until an Italian came in with a 
 large female goat, which had no sooner stopped than he 
 stooped down behind the faithful nannie and began to 
 fill a very small mouthed bottle with milk, for which 
 our host paid him three cents, and for a spoonful of 
 which put into our coffee we had each to pay him three 
 cents extra. They often carry a bag of water in the 
 sleeve to empty in the vessel of milk, a sly cheat. 
 
 We have a few times step'ped into their shops or stores 
 and priced articles as if we purposed buying ; often we 
 were asked three, four and five times what we could 
 
61 
 
 really purchase for. The}^ do not read as the Floren- 
 tines and Romans, nor is much no^v doing for education 
 in general. 
 
 Were the travel to Naples to stop entirely for two 
 years there would be fearful suffering, I believe. The 
 Enghsh, French, Germans and Americans drop hun- 
 dreds of thousands here yearly. 
 
 Italy has produced some of the first musicians, poets, 
 painters, architects, and sculptors. She possesses one 
 of the most delightful of climates. Naples has the finest 
 of the bays. "See Naples and die." All these are the 
 heritage of those now living there and holding in fee 
 simple their lawful patrimony. They have preserved in 
 a praiseworthy manner the works of art left to them, as 
 the safest and never-failing source of revenue. What 
 the nation claims as reward for its care is not excessive, 
 but every native feels the patrimony to be his individu- 
 ally, and would fain be enjoying, while you are passing 
 through, the portion of the bounty that falls to him. 
 
 Land'rents near about Naples for 820 to $30 yearly, 
 and house-rent is pretty high ; good living is high, but 
 the poor live very cheap. Macaroni seems to be the 
 chief staple of support, and it is made here by th'i car- 
 load. 
 
 The first day of our stay we visited the National Mu- 
 seum, admission one franc (20 cents), catalogue forty 
 cents. The contents are about as follows: Mural paint- 
 ings from Herculaneum and Pompeii ; the finest collec- 
 tion of bronzes in the world; marble sculptures (some 
 master pieces); inscriptions ; Egyptian antiquities ; Me- 
 diaeval antiquities; crystals; bronzes; ancient terra- 
 cottas; Papyri from Herculaneum; engravings (seen 
 only by permission); Pompeian relics; food; domestic 
 
63 
 
 utensils ; ornaments ; coins ; vases ; picture gallery ; li- 
 brary of 200,000 volumes; 4,000 MSS., some of them 
 rare and of great interest. 
 
 We visited, the second day, Pompeii, which was de- 
 stroyed A. D. 79 by an eruption of Mt. Vesuvius. The 
 excavation was going on the day we visited the buried 
 city, but the principal part has been exhumed for many 
 years. All enter by the Porta marina or sea-gate, for the 
 
 EXHUMED BODIES. 
 
 sea, which is now several furlongs off, once reached 
 within a few feet of the city w^alls, (admission forty 
 cents), a guide is furnished by the government. A mu- 
 seum here contains several plaster casts of human bodies 
 found in the streets and houses— giving a pretty fair 
 reproduction ; also a dog, which makes almost a perfect 
 cast. These casts are made by filling with soft plaster 
 the vacuums found in beds of cinders, where the wretch- 
 es who perished with their city lay till they were en- 
 
64 
 
 tirely roasted. The plaster graduall}^ becomes hard and 
 Temains a permanent heritage. 
 
 The general plan of the place is about the same as 
 that of ancient Rome. Here is the Forum, about it are 
 the Temples of Venus, Jupiter, Mercury, Fortuna, Basil- 
 ica, Pantheon, and not very far off the circus and am- 
 phitheatre. One is shown also the houses of Sallust, 
 Tragic Poet, C & E. Rufus, Orpheus, Lucretius, Faun, 
 <fec. I can easily believe this city Avas destroyed for its 
 wickedness as was Sodom by divine appointment. It is 
 strange to a visitor to see the people now building far 
 up on the side of Vesuvius, half way at least from Pom- 
 peii to the top. They have two or three cities, as large, 
 perhaps, as either of those overwhelmed in the year 79 
 not over half the distance from the ver}^ crater. 
 
 Leaving Pompeii at 11:30 in company with Hon. E. 
 E. Taft, of Vermont, a Califbrnian, and our guide, with 
 .•a horse and two ponies, we started to ascend the Vol- 
 cano. Our route lay through Torre Annunciata, a city 
 •of 12,000 inhabitants. Mr. Taft had a turn for fun, and 
 jnounted on a good horse, he put out at full speed 
 through the town, to the consternation of everybody on 
 the streets. Our guide, divining his intentions, seized 
 Tthe horse's tail as if to hold him back, it being impos- 
 sible for me and Mr. G., an old gentleman of three-score 
 and more, on our ponies to do more than keep in sight of 
 our illustrious leader, who went careering around the 
 street corners, much, I imagine, like Mazeppa in his ex- 
 'Cursion from "Bangor to the dismal swamp." Our little 
 •steeds fairly spread themselves, but 'twas of no use, the 
 leader had the longest legs and thinnest flanks, besides he 
 ivasa cavalry horse, on the retired list and had good wind. 
 I should have expected that we would all be arrested, for 
 
65 
 
 riding at a gait to endanger our own lives and those 
 of persons on the streets, but how could we be arrested? 
 What prospect would a pursuer, even on a fast horse, 
 have of ever seeing us after the passing minute, and as 
 policemen do not ride, we were safe. Mr Taft bent on 
 fun, and we on catching him and the guide, still hold- 
 ing the horse's tail, and looking as they swept around 
 the street-corners like small boys at the end of a whip- 
 cracking game that scatters them far and wide, flew on 
 at Gilpin speed. It soon grew monotonous to the guide 
 and the martial steed with his double load, and we came 
 up in time to hear the guide say, as best he could, for his 
 breath was about gone, that if that was the way we pur- 
 posed going he would let us go on without him. I was 
 sorry for him, but had not got near enough to be heard 
 before. 
 
 It ill became the dignity of a State Senator, a sexag- 
 enarian and a Methodist preacher on their first visit to 
 a town so to astonish the natives as to call all the peoj^le 
 from their dwellings into the streets, and have them to 
 follow us as long as they could see us, some laughing at 
 the fun of the thing, others terrified, not knowing what 
 was about to happen. If we had been coming from the 
 mountain instead of going to it, and the air had been 
 filled with smoke and thunder, and the earth with 
 trembling from the restless monster as on that fatal day 
 in 79, our conduct would have been appropriate, but 
 under no other circumstances. But all is well that ends 
 well, and we take it more leisurely as we begin the as- 
 cent in the suburbs of the town. Still the guide and the 
 looj sent to hold our horses, hold on to the horses' tails 
 all the way up to the hitching place. This a great help 
 to one walking up hill, I afterwards tried it myself. Leav- 
 
66 
 
 ingtown, we enter a vineyard two miles wide, pass a few 
 scrubby pines, about large enough for walking canes, 
 and vegetation ceases. 
 
 The soil is about the color of black lead, with a brown- 
 ish hue. The surface of the ground for the first few 
 miles is covered chiefly with gravels about the size of 
 
 ho:n". elihu b. taft. 
 
 peas. We ride to within one and a half or two miles of 
 the crater, where a bo}" holds the horses, and men who 
 met us returned to assist us in climbing up. The horses 
 and guide and boy cost seven francs for each person ; if 
 you take a man to help pull you up from the place of 
 dismounting, it costs 4 francs more ; if you take a cane 
 it costs 1 franc more. ^Ir. Taft was heavy and took 
 
help. ^Ir. G. and I did as well without. After going- 
 to within a quarter of a mile of the top, we found hot 
 stones that had just rolled down, and every few steps 
 more stones and hotter; presently they were red hot ; a 
 hundred yards further and we saw one roll down as 
 large as a barrel. We sat down to rest, and down came 
 one, red hot, rolling down an angle of forty -five degrees, 
 going at the rate of several miles a minute, and another ; 
 we could see them in time to dodge from their path 
 Now we kej^t on a ridge of them some ten feet higher 
 than the track down which they were tumbling, and 
 which seemed to be a kind of highway for them ; soon 
 we came to a sluice of red hot lava, twenty feet wide 
 and several feet deep, running down like thick molasses. 
 We could not go nearer than within ten feet of it, too 
 intense was the heat. Our guide offered to imbed a 
 penny in a molten piece for a franc. Mr. Taft had him 
 to put two pennies in two pieces. He did so, but it was 
 unsatisfactory, the impression of the coin being so 
 vague. I got one of them, however, as a souvenir of 
 our meeting and Vesuvius. 
 
 The fumes of sulphur and gases well nigh stifled us, 
 and so dense was the smoke that all stopped short of 
 the entire journey save myself and guide, who protested 
 against going further, but not expecting to come this 
 way again right away and being so near, I was deter- 
 mined to look down the throat of this heaving, stewing 
 thundering monster. On the summit one feels the 
 mountain tremble like an old mill when it is grinding. 
 So the guide, fearful of losing his position and gratuities,, 
 went with me to the top, and my ambition was satisfied. 
 I felt it to be risking my life, and my stay was short ; 
 you see where a whole mountain has fallen in, to fill the 
 
68 
 
 Tacuum made perhaps when Pompeii and Herculaneum 
 were buried ; and it is probable that the thousands and 
 millions of tons since belched forth, have left an im- 
 mense cavity, which may cause a falling in of the sides 
 at any time. I hurried back through smoke and foetid 
 gases, sometimes almost suffocated and every moment 
 fearful of being overtaken by a block of heaved-out lava. 
 It was very disagreeable on account of the snow, some 
 of which was melted and made with the pebbles and 
 ashes a muddy track. It was smooth, however, and in 
 a short time w^e were on our steeds again. As no one 
 has given me any adequate idea of this volcano, so I do 
 not hope to do better for others. Long ridges of scoria, 
 several hundred yards in length, sometimes twenty feet 
 Iiigh and from twenty feet to one hundred feet wide, 
 seem to have been placed artificially and but yesterday. 
 They are of many colors mingled, from the black slag to 
 the dura petra nearly white. On the South side the moun- 
 tain has kept active so long, sending out matter which 
 hardens often near the summit until it is very high and 
 sharp, the ascent for the last several minutes being about 
 4o°. From Naples one sees clouds of smoke ascending 
 from the crater during the day, and at night flames of 
 fire are ever shooting up as if from some distant burn- 
 ing building. 
 
 The animals we rode were very diminutive as are 
 nearly all the equine species seen in Italy. Mr. G. who 
 is an elderly gentleman started with Beefsteak but not 
 liking his qualities offered to swap with me. Of course 
 I accommodated him ; but after trying Macaroni, he 
 concluded he had cheated himself and wished to trade 
 back and we traded again. He then thought he was 
 -cheated again but determined to take vengeance out on 
 
G9 
 
 Beefsteak by whipping him. The animal was so short 
 he struck clear by and missed the object of his ire every 
 time. He then contented himself by abusing the 
 Italians. 
 
 We left next day for Brindisi, the ancient Brundusium 
 of the Romans, whence we sailed to Alexandria. Brin- 
 disi has nothing of special interest except its name, 
 which means the antlers of a stag, the promontories 
 that jut out into the water there being in appearance 
 very much like a stag's horns, and the pillars that stand 
 there to mark the terminus of the Appian Way paved 
 from Rome three hundred and fifty miles. Only one of 
 these, however, is left now, the other having been thrown 
 down by an earthquake. 
 
 On the way to Brindisi we passed Bari where St. 
 Nicholas is buried and where the pious Greeks of Rus- 
 sia go yearly to buy a bottle of precious snow water 
 which is thought to have miraculous medicinal proper- 
 ties. This is specially holy in their esteem and some- 
 times sells at fabulous prices. We went down the 
 Adriatic coast and in sight of Greece. 
 
 There are seven clergymen aboard the steamship 
 Cathay, of the P. and O. (Peninsular and Oriental) 
 line, of whom four are Presbyterians, one a Bajjtist, one 
 an Episcopalian, and myself, a Methodist. Two of them 
 are missionaries, one representing the Christian Guild, of 
 Scotland the other the church of England* 
 
 From Brindisi to Alexandria is 900 to 1000 miles and 
 requires three days and nights to complete the voyage. 
 Our captain said he had never seen higher winds. The 
 storm that wrecked the steamers at Samoa came our 
 way. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 EGYPT. 
 
 Who can adequately describe landing amongst Arabs? 
 The}^ throng about the gangway ere it connects the ship 
 to the wharf, precisely as hungry hogs do about the 
 trough where swill is emptied, nor can two or three 
 policemen arrest or check their persistence. They cry 
 their good qualities and crowd one another, pushing and 
 beating opponents until a stranger is surprised that 
 many are not killed every day. "When the gangway is 
 secured they overrun the vessel's deck, thrusting their 
 heads under one's hat brim, yelling in English, 
 French or German, as the case demands, for your 
 patronage. So much is paid them for every customer 
 got into a carriage or hotel, besides baksheesh for hand- 
 ling baggage. One is impressed at the abundance of 
 the survival of the unfittest. 
 
 We landed at Alexandria about 8 o'clock Thursday 
 morning, and taking a ride through the city went to 
 Cairo the same day. 
 
 The ride up the Nile was the most interesting of my 
 life. While the objects along the way were not just 
 such as I had expected, they were not below expecta- 
 tion. The railroad crosses the Rosetta and Damietta, 
 arms of the river, and several canals, while every spot 
 of ground is covered with the rankest herbage. The 
 soil is a dark brown, almost black, loam. This deposit 
 
72 
 
 of the Nile is 30 to 60 feet deep. Its capacity to pro- 
 duce is limited only by the time required for plant 
 maturity and irrigation. Along the road are hundreds 
 of towns made of sundried brick — not a single one made 
 of timber. We passed many thousands of Arabs on 
 the road, most of whom were riding donkeys ; these are 
 very diminutive, being only 3 J tc 4^ feet high, yet I 
 often saw two men on one donkey. They sit so far back 
 on him that the only chance for the second man is to 
 get before ; you canH ride behii d one of these men on a 
 donkey. A great many camels are used also. 
 
 The first things that impress a stranger in the towns are 
 the dress of the people, their want of decency, and their 
 commercial habits. Often one can only tell a male from 
 a female by the beard and a veil worn by females over 
 the nose. Married women also wear a stick or brass 
 tube, about like a number 12 cartridge, between the 
 eyes — thus the face is entirely concealed, with the excep- 
 tion of the eyes, and the hollow tube admits fresh air 
 for respiration. 
 
 Their stores are only a fe^v feet deep, and sometimes 
 all their goods are on the floor, even when their stock 
 is bread, and the floor is often mother earth. They sit 
 oftea on the ground seemingly indifferent to customers, 
 smoking pipes that will hold a whole package of Dur- 
 ham smoking tobacco. They all smoke, and nearly all 
 gamble, just where they sit to trade. 
 
 Alexandria and Cairo have many water carriers ; the 
 men sell, the women donate. The men carry it in 
 large skins — goat skins — holding about 10 or 12 gallons, 
 price about five cents per gallon of filtered Nile water> 
 which is very good ; they cry as they go, miyeh ! tiyeb 
 miyeh! water! gDod water! Powdered almonds is said 
 
73 
 
 to be put into the slightly muddy water, precipitating 
 the argillaceous and other substances, leaving it pure 
 and sweet. I need not remark upon the excessive 
 filthmess of these people when it is remembered that it 
 seldom rains here-about eight inches a year at Alexan- 
 
 TAKING A DRINK OF WATER. 
 
 dna less than two in Cairo, and none further south 
 one has an idea of the dust that is made by the travef 
 of thousands of donkeys and camels, cows, goats and 
 heep daily over the highways. It is very hot ; a little 
 tod fills one wuh perspiration, they go into the canal 
 with their beasts, and all lave together, after which they 
 
74 
 
 fill their water jji'i's. You can see fleas crawling about 
 upon them ; often' "one sees a dozen flies in their eyes ; 
 many of them are half clad, man}^ entirely nude. It is 
 said there is either a cow, camel, goat or donkey for 
 ever}^ acre of land in the Delta, and a person for every 
 animal. I believe the true estimate puts one person for 
 every two acres of -^and. 
 
 I suppose they irrigate their land muchas they did 
 Ave or six thousand years ago, or earlier^'^for I cannot 
 think of anything more primitive. The\ raise it by a 
 
 ■| 
 
 
 SAKIEH FOR RAISIXG Ys'ATER. 
 
 .system of sweeps, like our sweep-wells, only shorter 
 levers are used ; sometimes four sets are required to 
 raise the water 20 or 25 feet high, each set lifting a basket 
 full (flag baskets) five or six feet high, where it is 
 emptied into a large cavity in the bank and again carried 
 up. They call these shadoofs. Another way is to have 
 a perpendicular and horizontal siuir-wheel geared to- 
 gether and turned by a cow or camel blindfold, or person. 
 
This puts ill iiKjticni an endless chain, with jars fastened 
 at proper intervals (Sakieh) ; they raise the water, which 
 empties into a trough connecting with a ditch, and so is 
 carried for miles over the fields, which are level as far as 
 the foot h'lls. I believe they are a little lower at the base, 
 of the hills than at the margin of the river, owing to the 
 greiter deposit near the stream during the annual 
 overflow. This facilitates the irrigation, as the water 
 flows d) n an inclined plane from the start. Small 
 dams are made around little squares to hold the water 
 until every plant on the cultivated area is wet in season. 
 The \v;iter is turned into and out of these squares by the 
 bare foot of the fellah (farmer.) 
 
 When one sees the fertility of this valley, the sweet- 
 ness of the Xile water, he is not surprised that ancient 
 Egyptians, without a knowledge of the true God, should 
 have deified the stream to which they seemed to owe all 
 their support, especially when the manner of its over- 
 flowing and enriching the land annually without any 
 rains, so far as they knew, was so mysterious and won- 
 derful. 
 
 I am told that each farmer has to give So per acre 
 yearly to the government as tax. In some places two- 
 thirds of all the yield are taken ; the government owns 
 the land largely; they raise three and four crops yearly, 
 consisting of ]>arley, sugar, rice, clover, beans, &c. These 
 crops, however, are measurably affected by the rise in 
 the Nile. The tax is levied according to the same. 
 
 The Government often reports the Xile to have reached 
 the normal height of 23 or 24 feet when it has not, so 
 as toexcuse a high tax. There are raised large herds of 
 cattle and sheep for Alexandria and Cairo markets, and 
 I judge other cities also. 
 
76 
 
 The city of Cairo is now the centre of the world in 
 more senses than one. It is not only the seat of the 
 Khedive's dominions in the North of Africa, but the 
 season is on, and tourists from the Continent, Great 
 Britain and America are here in great numbers. I met 
 two young gentlemen of the U. S. Man of War Essex (I 
 think) now on the way home from a tour round the 
 world, Mr. Scales, of Greensboro, N. C, and Mr. Rus- 
 sell, of , N. C. There are travelers from nearly 
 
 every American State. They have an English quarter, a 
 French quarter and perhaps a German quarter. 
 
 Everything looks like springy; everybody seems happy, 
 and Cairo, already numbering 400,000 inhabitants, keeps 
 booming. 
 
 We visited the Citadel, on Mt. Mokattam, where the 
 
 finest panorama in all Egypt lies out before the spectator 
 
 from the South side of the Mosque of Mahomet Ali. 
 
 W^e stood on this terrace • for an hour or two, studying 
 
 Cairo, every part of which is visible, with hundreds of 
 
 mosques and minarets and palaces ; the Pyramids of 
 
 Ghizeh, eight miles to the west, of Sakarah, "the city of 
 
 the Tombs," 15 or 20 miles to the south, and Old Cairo, 
 
 a few miles to the south, enrich the landscape with 
 
 "The river gleaming and winding away from the dim south 
 into the blue distance of the north, the green strips of cultiva- 
 tion on its banks delighting the eye amid the yellow sands." 
 
 There is the arena where were enacted many of those 
 tragic scenes recorded in the first two books of the Bible. 
 There unknown, obscure little Joseph began and devel- 
 oped into a man of wonderful power, and made himself 
 a home at which he royally received his father and kins- 
 folk. Hither Jacob came, with trembling step, for life, 
 as Abraham, his grandfather, had done before, and 
 
blessed Ms sou's benefactor and beneficiary, and his 
 children and grand-children. There toiled the subject 
 race for four hundred and twenty years. There Moses, 
 brought up in the Kiug's palace and educated yonder at 
 On, returned to work his miracles before the King. Yes, 
 that river was once blood. The blackness of those 
 heavens could once be felt. Those streets were throno^ed 
 by frogs, and swarms of flies, and other pests tormented 
 the wretched monarch. 0, the history enacted on that 
 plain I Egypt, thou wast the nurse of the Hebrew peo- 
 ple. Silent, mysterious, wonderful land I 
 
 We visited here the Mosque, which is of Ala- 
 baster, and contains the body of Mahomet Ali ; lamps 
 are kept burning by it all the time. The floor is 
 covered with the finest Persian carpets and rugs, on 
 which the worshipers sit instead of on pews. It Avas 
 Friday or Mahometan Sabbath, and one solitary Arab 
 sat cross-legged, swinging back and forth aud rej^eating 
 in a whining song verses of the Koran. I think the 
 howlers instead of the dancers worship here. Christians 
 are not permitted to enter the enclosure after the hour for 
 w^orship to begin. Sandals were provided for visitors, 
 for which backsheesh is required. We then visited Jo- 
 seph's well, which is 290 feet deep, from which pure 
 water is elevated by donkeys at the bottom. This well 
 is square and 15 or 18 feet in diameter; in the solid 
 stone, around the main shaft, a stairway leads to the 
 bottom. "We descended partly down, far enough to get a 
 good idea of the whole. We passed out by the narrow 
 defile in which Mahomet Ali had 450 Mamelukes, with 
 their leader, Ibrahim Bey, killed in 1811, for fear of 
 their revolutionary plans ; 800 more were killed in the 
 city. Emin Bey escaped by leaping his horse over the 
 
79 
 
 battlement. His horse Avas crushed to death, but he 
 escaped. The eastern terrace, 100 feet high, from which 
 he leaped, is called La Sav.t da Mameli(ke. The fact of 
 the leaping- is questioned. 
 
 We rode out to Cheops, 4,060 years old, and the 
 Sphinx, 140 faf^t long, plus 50 feet for the paws ; the 
 head is over 100 feet in circumference and the body 40 
 feet in diameter. We ascend Cheops alone, without 
 help, (this is quite a triumph) especially when ha- 
 rangued by a dozen Arabs before and behind, and all 
 around; the usual method of ascent is for two Arabs to 
 precede and pull while a third from the rear pushes up 
 the climber. 
 
 They try to alarm the novice by pointing out many 
 dangers to w^hich he is exposing himself, saying : 
 
 "American no find way. Hawaji (Mr.) head swim. 
 Hawaji fall, get killed." 
 
 And the ascent is perilous to one without a steady 
 nerve. Reaching the top when my companion was 
 scarcely half way up I began to muse : 
 
 This is Cheops, built some think for the habitation of 
 a single corpse, whose reign had been so oppressive that 
 his body had to be conveyed away secretly, and his 
 name never called by his subjects, fulfilled the words of 
 truth, ''the name of the wicked shall rot." What varied 
 scenes have been enacted here, when this pillar was 
 being erected, of toiling serfs and cruel taskmasters, 
 making the world great and miserable ! the leeks, rad- 
 ishes and onions consumed by the workmen aggregated 
 $1,700,000. What a celebration when the "chief corner 
 stone" (the apex) was laid! What a history has been 
 made beneath its shadjw, what untold thousands of 
 Egypt's sons have passed by with gallant tread, going to 
 
80 
 
 foreign wars against the mighty Cheta under Rameses 
 and Thothmes (Napoleon of Egypt), some to bring many 
 •captives home, more whose blood enriched the enemies, 
 lands. What unnumbered hosts have marched hither 
 to return no more. Just there Napoleon concentrated an 
 •oration into one phrase : " Sons of France forty centuries 
 dook down on you!" 
 
 What a strange place is this ! To the west is endless 
 ^eath, the desert sands, bro:vn and red, interminable, 
 say, "Leave hope behind who enter here !" To the east 
 the fertile and happy valley with the smiling Nile seem 
 ^s contented and peacelul as if there were no death, and 
 
 "backsheesh Hawadji !" "America give good back 
 
 rsheesh!" "Give New York back sheesh," "Give Yankee- 
 doodle back sheesh !" "Give it ! give it!" "Howadji buy 
 mummy! genuine antique ! worth 6 shillings," (about 
 the size of a man's finger, a poor imitation of a mummy 
 ■case). "It is not genuine, I fear," said I. "Genuine 
 antique, Howadji, give it fou- shilhngs." "Too much," 
 €aid I. "How much you give it?" "I will give you a 
 piaster (4 cents) for a pair of them," said I hoping to 
 disgust, and get rid of their pertinacity. "Well, give it, 
 give it." "No, I don't want them." ''Give it, give it." 
 •''Miyeh (water) Howadji." " Tiyeh miyeh,^' (good water). 
 "Buy it, buy it!" and you have to buy it. "AVant see 
 do Mark Twain?" "What is that?" "Arab go down 
 pyramid, up 'tother pyramid and back here in fifteen 
 minutes for one shilling." Mark Twain said he hired 
 him in hopes of seeing him break his neck, but Arab 
 triumphed. They call it, "Doing Mark Twain." 
 
 By this time my friend had reached the top exhausted. 
 The summit is twenty-four feet square, and there are 
 blocks of stone on this area four hundred and sixty odd 
 feet perpendicular that weigh many tons. 
 
81 
 
 I descended, went into the interior, into the King's 
 •and Queen's chambers, both of which have been written 
 much about. I hesitate to say more than that the en- 
 trance is fraught with the greatest danger, being by a 
 descent and then an ascent over stones worn smooth as 
 glass. The king's chamber, 34 feet by 17 feet, and 16 
 feet high, is the most reverberating of any hall I ever 
 -entered. It contained a mutilated, lidless sarcophagus 
 •or coffer, about whose purpose there is much conjecture. 
 Some say it is a coffin, some, a treasure chest, some say it 
 was designed for a universal standard of measure cor- 
 responding to the laws of the Hebrews, others say it is 
 ihe pillar spoken of by Isaiah 19 : "In day that shall 
 there be an altar to the Lord in the midst of the land of 
 Egypt, and a pillar at the border thereof to the Lord. 
 And it shall be a for a sign and a witness unto the Lord 
 of Hosts in the land of Egypt." As our carriage ap- 
 proached the base we noticed men on the summit of the 
 pyramid, and they looked like toy men on a mantel. 
 This optical delusion was owing to the great bulk of 
 matter just beneath, Cheops covers nearly thirteen acres 
 of land, and has been computed to contain enough stone to 
 build the city of Washington, D. C, government build- 
 ings and all. It is about an hour's ride by carriage from 
 Cairo, on the foot of the Lybian range of hills bordering 
 on the Lybian desert. 
 
 When we were returning from the interior of the pyra- 
 mid, my Arab guides stopped short before me at the 
 critical turning from the shaft descending from the 
 king's chamber to the shaft or tunnel leading to the well 
 SO feet below the base of the pyramid and called the bot- 
 tomless pit, at the point K, (see cut) It is difficult 
 to get from one to the other, and perilous even with 
 
83 
 
 good light, but here they extinguished their candles 
 and mine, and I knew not what was next, for I had left 
 my friend on top, who said he did not care to venture 
 within. A man thinks rapidly when unexpected danger 
 suddenly confronts him. So I. What does it mean ? 
 There are a hundred of them outside. What can my 
 friend do alone? He was afraid to come in with me, 
 much more will he fear to do so now ; besides, what 
 could he do if he should come? Will they kill me and 
 drop me in the deep well they showed me a moment 
 since, that is just behind me ? 
 
 Thes.e, with many other apprehensions, shot through 
 my mind like electricity. I had not been in Egypt over 
 twelve hours ; I did not understand the Arabs. Every- 
 thing I had seen of them disgusted me. I had heard 
 and read of their treachery, but felt safe in sight of 
 Cairo, of English troops, with an English gentleman on 
 the top, especially since I had paid the f<heik three shil- 
 lings for the privilege of penetrating this "miracle in 
 stone " that was as much mine as his. Every one who 
 has traveled among the Arabs has anticipated me, I 
 know, when I tell them that ''backsheesh, Hoivadji /" was 
 the first sound that filled the darkness. Yes, they 
 w^anted this job settled for then and there. An old, 
 useless Arab had followed me up the mountain down 
 again and inside, saying repeatedly : " I make you satis- 
 fied, you make' me satisfied." So he yelled again and I 
 responded in the vernacular of the place, " Yes, make 
 me satisfied and I'll make you satisfied." I told them 
 certainly I would give them plenty of backsheesh — they 
 lighted up and in another minute we stood from under. 
 And for the first and last time (though amongst them 
 for two months afterwards) satisfied them with back- 
 
84 
 
 sheesh. It was now sundown, but my friend, seeing me 
 i-safe outside, determined to try it himself, with an expe- 
 rience similar to mine. 
 
 " This mighty structure stands immortal in its greatness, lift- 
 ing its brow the nearest to heaven of all earthly works (1877), 
 and asserting in every feature something more than human. 
 With all of man's workmanship that went before it in utter 
 ruin, it stands only the more readable from the damages 
 •of time, the grand and indestructible monument of the true 
 -primeval man. Upon its pedestal of rock, battered by the 
 buflfetings of forty centuries, it stands, upspringing like a tongue 
 •of fire kindled of God to light the course of time down to its 
 final goal and consummation." 
 
 "Old Time, himself so old, is like a child, 
 And can't remember when these blocks were piled, 
 Or caverns scooped ; but, with amaz'd eye, 
 He seems to pause, like other stand ers-by. 
 Half thinking how the wonders here made known 
 Were born in ages older than his own.'' 
 
 Next day we went through many of their bazaars, in 
 which they sell fruits of Egypt and other countries — 
 >cane, dates, oranges, bread, eggs, cheese, birds, fish, etc., 
 •etc. All manner of fabrics of cloth, carpets, rugs, etc., 
 from Arabia and Persia ; pipes and tobacco and cigar- 
 •ettes, boots, shoes, slippers and fezes, hardware, and flag- 
 ware and jars by the ten thousand, and everything else 
 almost, and all on the ground in the streets on a rug, 
 each man or firm just having what they can conveniently 
 -take away at night. 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 FARTHER UP THE NILE. 
 
 I had arranged to take the trip up the Nile with Drs.. 
 Whigham and Black on Cook's steamer, but being a lit- 
 tle careless about securing a berth, found when I didl 
 make application that all had been taken. They wished 
 to register me in Rome for this excursion at £50, also at 
 Naples for the same price, but at Brindisi they offered 
 me a ticket for £25 sterling. We went from Cairo over* 
 perhaps the dustiest railroad in existence, 247 miles to 
 Assiout. No water is found on these trains unless the 
 thoughtful traveler carries a cruse or water jar holding 
 about one quart, which costs, jar and water, about two' 
 cents. At Assiout we took the government postal steam- 
 er and were enabled briefly to study the country in its- 
 resources, its institutions and population. 
 
 We learned that the Copts, about one-eighth of the- 
 inhabitants, hold about one-fourth or more of the offices,., 
 they are more competent, and being weak in a military 
 sense are awake to their interest, and try to educate 
 themselves. They hold nearly all the positions in civil 
 service, while the military positions for religious reasons 
 are given to Mahometans. The Copts have only one 
 wife and are all Christians. They never intermarry 
 with Arabs. 
 
 The stations of the postal service are all on flat-boata 
 
86 
 
 ancliored to the shore because the banks and level of the 
 water are ever shifting under the annual overflow of the 
 Xile. At these stations hundreds of Arabs gather on 
 the arrival of the boat with cane, bread, eggs, cheese- 
 curds, vegetables, pigeons, &c., &c., to sell, sometimes a 
 hundred crying their wares at once until however much 
 you want a thing, your only chance to get it is to catch 
 the eye of the vender, who, calling the name of the 
 goods he sells, says : " God will lighten my load of 
 oranges;" *^God will forgive thy sins." At the same 
 time from twenty-five to fifty are crying backsheesh. 
 
 At Abooteeg all others gave way to an old blind man 
 who yelled enough for a dozen. Our captain said his 
 words at first meant, '^Oh, my Lord." This he rejoeated 
 some scores of times ; he would then vary, and finally 
 appealed to our idea of the ridiculous by barking like a 
 dog — " bow I wow, wow I" so rapidly and with such 
 frantic gesticulations, and leaping so as to permanently 
 monopolize the attention of all, and secure his backsheesh. 
 
 At the next station was a blind boy, who appealed only 
 to the emotions and promise of reward for benefactions 
 he had memorized those passages in the Koran suited to 
 his purpose, these he used with great effect. The Arabs 
 were moved as by the spell of elocjuence and contributed, 
 as did also the Christians. 
 
 The valley of the Xile from Assiout, 393 miles from 
 Alexandria, is between the Lybian hills on the west and 
 Aabian on the east. They rise suddenly from the plains 
 500 feet high, presenting a barren front of limestone and 
 begin the deserts of the same names. The valley, some- 
 times 20 miles wide, is, on an average, about six or 
 seven, and all under cultivation. The river will rise 
 again in four months and in those sandbars left bare 
 
now they are planting " water-wel on seed. There are 
 plenty of. tomatpes, peas, beans, &c., of this season's 
 growth. We saw ' also ' water-melons in Cairo, They 
 have harvested their sugar cane, and our captain says 
 one acre will make tli^ree barrels of sugar. They also 
 are harvesting barley |\yhich of ten only , grows eighteen 
 inches high but as thick, a^s 'can well stand on the 
 ground. Flax is maturing. " 
 
 The Khedive owns many sugar factories along the 
 Nile, making the best standard brands, and the price is 
 about the same as w^ith us. . There are also ,very . large 
 jug and jar fcictories here, as all the vessels used for 
 water are earthen-ware. AVe saw perhaps fifty thousand 
 at Farshoot. 
 
 Our boat, the Akashea, carried us, among the most 
 unique scenes we had ever witnessed. The skies above 
 were cloudless by day and by night. The sun shone 
 with intolerable heat by day, but when he retired behind 
 the Lybian hills, the evaporation from the Nile soon 
 cooled the air, and stars invisible in other lands sent 
 twinkling rays down through the translucent atmos- 
 phere. When it is hot the buffaloes come down in the 
 river to wallow. The women wade out to fill their pon- 
 derous water jars, a boat laden with jars, sheep, wheat 
 or cane for market passes every now and then, the banks 
 are lined with men working at the shadoof, in a state of 
 nudity, except the poorest excuse of a breech cloth, their 
 sweeps creaking on the axle, as with uniform swing they 
 land the life-giving liquid. 
 
 The Ibis religlosa venerated as divine by the ancient 
 Egyptians is extinct, but many a flock of ducks evades 
 the hurrying boat and every town furnishes thousands 
 of pigeons. 
 
On the morning of the third day we reach Thebes — 
 our destination. 
 
 When we landed none of the objects of our visit were 
 in sight, although I stood in the midst of Thebes, well 
 calculated to "fascinate, appall, stun, defy the imagina- 
 tion and confound the reason." Twas indeed "like en- 
 tering a city of the giants, who, after a long contest had 
 all been destroyed, leaving their vast temples as the only- 
 proof of their existence." Her magnificence once justi- 
 fied Homer in singing : 
 
 "Not all proud Thebes* unrivalled walls contain 
 The world's great Empress on the Egyptian plain 
 That spreads her conquest o'er a thousand states, 
 And pours her heroes through a hundred gates. 
 Two hundred horsemen and two hundred cars, 
 From each wide portal issuing to the wars." 
 
 From Luxor we went to the tombs of the kings and 
 the temples of ancient Thebes, four miles west of the 
 river. Twenty-five of these tombs are up a defile Bab-el- 
 Molouk, in the Lybian Mountains about one and a half 
 miles from the plain and are all near together ; they 
 are tunnels open at one end, and descending sometimes at 
 a small angle, sometimes very steep, and are divided into 
 a great many chambers, the principal one being for the 
 king's sarcophagus and remains. One we visited, No. 17, 
 of Sethi L, descends 180 feet below the entrance, and 
 the bottom, which is nearly four hundred feet distant 
 from the entrance, is more than five hundred feet per- 
 pendicular from the top of the hill under which it was 
 dug. The walls and ceiling are full of carved hierogly- 
 phics except No. 17, which, much superior to the rest 
 every way, is done in bas relief. 
 
89 
 
 "On entering the tomb (of Sethi I.) the visitor finds himself 
 actually transported into anew world, . . . All has become, 
 so to speak, fantastical chimerical. The gods assume strange 
 forms. Long serpents glide hither and thither round the rooms 
 or stand erect against the doorways. Some convicted malefac- 
 tors are being decapitated and others are being precipitated intO' 
 the flames. Well might the visitor feel a kind of horror creep- 
 ing over him if he did not realize that after all, underneath 
 these strange representations lies the most consoling of dogmas,, 
 that which vouchsafes eternal happiness to the soul after the 
 many trials of this life. Such, in fact, is the meaning of the 
 pictures which adorn the walls of this tomb. This legend must 
 be understood in an allegorical sense. The judgment of the 
 soul after being separated from the body, and the many trials 
 which it will be called upon to overcome by the aid only of 
 such virtues as it has evinced while on earth, constitute the sub- 
 ject-matter w'hich cover the tomb, from the entrance to the 
 extreme end of the last chamber. The serpents standing erect 
 over each portal, darting out venom, are the guardians ol the 
 gates of heaven— the soul cannot pass unless justified by works 
 of piety and benevolence. Thus the tomb is only the emblem 
 of the voyage of the soul to its eternal abode . . . from room 
 to room we witness its progress as it appears before the gods 
 and becomes gradually purified, at last in the grand hall, at the 
 end, it is admitted into that life which a second death shall 
 never reach."— 3iaWe^^^. 
 
 I took coj^ies of the hieroglyphics from several of these 
 tombs but the raised letters copied much the best. We 
 lunched in one of these, and rode through the Necropolis 
 to the temple-tomb (of marble) of Queen Hatasou and 
 the Eamesium — Temple of Eameses II. "erected in the 
 very center of the district of the dead, the monument 
 where after his death his subjects should come and 
 evoke his memory and wherein he naturally displays his 
 piety, his glory and, as a matter of course, his campaigns." 
 
 "Eameses should have been pleased with his temple, 
 for it was not built by his descendant, but by himself 
 self and for his own honor." 
 7 
 
90 
 
 AYe visited the Temple of Medinet Habou and the 
 iVIemnonium of Strabo where a few f oundatiou stones 
 and the gigantic colossi alone remain. One of these is 
 said to have greeted Aurora with a song each morn- 
 ing ; the expansion caused by the sun's heat (it being 
 shattered) no doubt has at times made noise enough to 
 attract attention and give rise to the legend. They once 
 stood at the entrance of a temple nearly one-fourth of a 
 mile in length. Many of the columns of the temple of 
 Eameses the Great still stand with the Osiride images 
 in situ, but much defaced. The most important thing 
 here is the statue of Rameses. It is a monolith of red 
 granite, representing the king sitting, hands on his 
 knees, at peace with his enemies. 
 
 It was originally 57 feet high and over 22 feet 4 
 inches across the shoulders, and is estimated to weigh 
 1198 tons. It has been thrown down and much broken, 
 many millstones having been taken from the very face, 
 but from the armpits up it is entire, except exteriorly 
 much mutilated, and is above ground, so as to exhibit 
 "just what it was, the largest statue in the world." But 
 how it became so broken to pieces no man knoweth. 
 This is No of the Scriptures: — "Thus saith the 
 Lord God : I will also destroy the idols, and I will cause 
 their images to cease out of Noph ; and there shall be 
 no more a prince of the land of Egypt ; and I will put a 
 fear in the land of Egypt. And I will make Pathros 
 desolate, and will set fire in Zoan, and will execute 
 judgments in No. And I will pour my fury upon 
 Sin, the strength of Egypt ; and I will cut off the mul- 
 titude of No. And I will set fire in Egypt : Sin shall 
 have great pain, and No shall be rent asunder, and Noph 
 
91 
 
 shall have distresses daily. The young men of Aven 
 and of Pi-beseth shall fall by the sword : and these cities 
 shall go into captivity." " At Tehaphnehes also the 
 day shall be darkened, when I shall break there the 
 yokes of Eg}^t; and the pomp of her strength shall 
 cease in her: as for her a cloud shall cover her, and her 
 daughters shall go into captivity. Thus will I exe- 
 cute judgments in Egypt, and they shall know that I 
 am the Lord."— Ezek. 30: 13-19. And I turned and 
 read up the prophecies and decrees of God against these 
 idolatrous cities and I saw that they are literally ful- 
 filled. We went one mile south to the Temple of Medi- 
 inet Habou, where the only naval battle of the Egyptians 
 is recorded on the walls. Here is a great succession of 
 temples representing much history and probably great 
 devotion ; the victors are cutting off and counting the 
 hands of the vanquished. Once a Christian church was 
 in the precincts of this temple, in the very court where 
 we now stand. All the works of art here have been 
 destroyed nearly. Theodosius, anxious to root out idol- 
 atry, ruined much, perhaps jealous and envious con- 
 querors, more. All these temples, while at a good ele- 
 vation above the Nile's overflow, are still underground, 
 except where reclaimed by scientists. The people clus- 
 tered around these deserted temples after their overthrow 
 and lived in them and built around them until debris 
 accumulating, they built on the tops of them, and so 
 they became buried, and there being no communication 
 about such things between the inhabitants and lovers of 
 antiquity, some of these cities and temples were long 
 lost. There are miserable mud towns all around every 
 one of them now. 
 
PYLON, OR GATEJlTOjEGYPTIAN TEMPLE, 8o FEET HIGH. 
 
93 
 
 The next day we visited the Temple of Karnak, the 
 most imposing in the world, whose walls 25 feet thick 
 and eighty high, are penetrated by four splendid pylons 
 still standing; it contains the tallest obelisk in the 
 world, 108 feet 10 inches high, of red granite. As we 
 sat in the shadow of this obelisk a strange being sud- 
 denly appeared before us whose approach had been un- 
 -observed. He is so correctly described by another that 
 I copy, omitting one or two sentences: 
 
 " In the Temple of Karnak, amid the grandeur unparalleled, 
 was a scene so strange and weird, so horrible yet fascinating, as 
 to surpass the wildest fancies of Dumas or Eugene Sue. It 
 thrilled, repelled, yet held the gaze until nature, half-paralyzed 
 by the spectacle, asserted itself and compelled the removal of 
 the object. \. creature in the form of a human being, paralyzed, 
 mute, naked, except for a rag tied across the loins ; with shaven 
 head, apparently seventy years of age, perchance not more than 
 fifty, perhaps nearly one hundred, exactly the color of the 
 ruined columns and the doorway, crawled out from under the 
 broken pillars and huge monoliths, as a lizard might emerge 
 from a pile of stones. A mumbling, inarticulate sound emerged 
 from his lips ; he moved sideways and tried to rise, and held 
 out his hands for alms; * * * some of the Egyptian attendants 
 seemed to stand in awe of him, and hesitated to drive him back 
 into the obscurity whence he had emerged. And when at last 
 two of them lifted him up to move him, he exerted what 
 strength he had and broke from them, falling upon the ground 
 and moving off" with the sinuous sideway motion with which 
 he had approached ; but whenever he fell the hand which was 
 held out to receive alms always came into position. Nothing 
 human have I ever seen in collections of deformities and idiot 
 asylums so peculiar; nothing which appeared to efface human- 
 ity and so transform a man into a beast. 
 
 " I departed with an intensified sense of the greatness and of 
 the littleness of man." — Observations Abroad. 
 
 Here stands the most massive and Avell preserved col- 
 umns; one court alone contains 134 columns, t-welve 
 
94 
 
 feet in diameter and sixty feet liigh, with capitals of 
 open and closed lotns — called the forest of columns. 
 The whole is If miles in circumference, and dating, a 
 part of it, to 3064 B. C. 
 
 As we Avandered through the ruins of this temple, 
 covering 90 acres and gazed in bewilderment upon the 
 time-defying obelisk, massive pylons and cyclopean walls, 
 and above all, the magnificent forest of columns, in im- 
 agination we repeopled these plains with a race superior 
 in civilization to these moderns, laid oif the vast plain 
 into streets and stood dazed in the old, proud ''Empress 
 of the Egyptian plain." 
 
 The ocean by its vastness and power, the mountain by 
 its lofty seclusion awe us, but not less so these stu- 
 pendous, mysterious ruins. These stones were quarried 
 and strangely freighted from some far-away mine, and 
 by the greatest of architects reared for the glory of their 
 city and worship of their gods, ages before Columbus 
 sailed in seach of America or the cornerstones of London 
 or Komeor Athens were laid, before the children of Israel 
 crossed the Red Sea, or Moses was born, when all the 
 nations that now exist lay back in the womb of barbarism. 
 
 The air seemed "heavy with history." With what 
 exultant pride the ancient builder stood apart to look 
 upon the labors of his hands I Was he not a worshiper 
 of nature's Architect whose templed universe suggested 
 the pattern for this temple on the Xile I 0, wonderful 
 men of old I 0, silent yet most eloquent pillars that 
 defy the marvelous sweep of Time that has vanquished 
 all your contemporaries of old I What countless myr- 
 iads have come and gone since the chisel decreed you to 
 be so grandly beautiful ^ I thank you for the spell, the 
 
95 
 
 inspiration, the dread engendered only in sucli presence. 
 We stopped at Denderah returning, and found a tem- 
 ple entire. Mariette says this temple was in course of 
 completion while Jesus was living in Jerusalem. It 
 consists of not less than 27 halls and chambers on the 
 first floor ; others above are reached by two flights of 
 stone stairs. This temple was not a place for the peo- 
 ple to meet and worship, it was penetrated only by the 
 king, priests and their special attendants, no dwellings 
 exist for priests as in the temple at Jerusalem. " It was a 
 sacred depository, a place of preparation (for fetes) and 
 of consecration. Here processions were organized and 
 the sacred vessels carefully stored away; if inside all 
 was dark and sombre and nothing indicates the use of 
 artificial light— that darkness w^as intended to intensify 
 the mystery of the ceremonies, while it secured the only 
 mode known of preserving the precious objects and the 
 sacred vestments from the ravages of insects and flies, from 
 the penetrating dust and from the scorching sun." The 
 cathedrals of Eome, some of them, might trace their 
 pedigree this far up the Mle if not farther. 
 
CHAPTER XI. 
 
 DOWN THE NILE TO CAIRO. 
 
 The Mle, one-fourth to one-half a mile wide, increases 
 in Yolnme from its months upwards for fourteen hun- 
 dred miles, owing to the vast quantity of water used for 
 irrigation and evaporation, and the fact that through all 
 this distance it is without a tributary. The water is 
 muddy, a seal brown, but when tiltered is clear and cool. 
 Besides the steamer, two or three other kinds of boats 
 ply on the bosom of Sihor, as the ancients called the 
 Nile. The largest of these is called the dahabeah. It 
 has state-rooms like a steamer, but is moved by sails and 
 oars. They are often fifty feet in length, perhaps eighty 
 or a hundred. One-half of the dahabeah is devoted to 
 state rooms, saloon, &c., the other to cargo, deck, and for 
 the liberty of those managing sails and oars. Other 
 boats (Markebs) using sails when the wind favored and 
 long heavy oars, laden with Avheat, sheep, water jars, &c., 
 went down to Cairo and Alexandria and returned well 
 nigh empty or with merchandise for countries south of 
 Egypt. As every nation that uses ships has a peculiar sail 
 with Avhich to drive them, so the sails of any Egptian 
 boat are like birds' wings drawn out and up, the points 
 farthest from the mast being sharp. They are stretched 
 on booms and sheets supported by a long sweep balanced 
 on an upright j^ost rather than masts, and at such an 
 angle as the sailors choose. Sometimes half a dozen 
 
97 
 
 Arabs tugged tliem slowly up the stream by a long rope, 
 sometimes in the water, sometimes on the bank. We 
 have noticed their boats and cargo covered over with a 
 network that allowed the cargo of water- jars to reach 
 several feet beyond the sides of the boat. The wheat 
 was poured out in the boat without sacks, as it was upon 
 the ground when they reached market. 
 
 Thousands of natives almost entirely nude raise water 
 to irrigate the lands for from one to three ■piastres, five 
 to fifteen cents, per day. Herons fly round us all the 
 time and fine large ducks, while hordes of tame uncouth 
 monsters called here buffaloes come down and wallow in 
 the Nile like hogs. 
 
 In the morning and evening it is pleasant on the Nile, 
 but in the middle of the day it is hot, no clouds protect 
 one from the sun during the day. At night overcoats 
 are needed ; many natives wear them all day. 
 
 Keturning to Cairo I visited On or Heliopolis, where 
 Moses was graduated, about six miles north-east from 
 Cairo. I went alone as my companions had gone to the 
 pyramids, which I had visited previously. The price of 
 a carriage was ten shillings, having proved their excel- 
 lent qualities of locomotion in upper Egypt I deter- 
 mined to ride a donkey, as he would cost me, with a 
 donkey boy, only three shillings. There is always a 
 crowd of boys and men with donkeys to hire on the 
 streets of Cairo, and as soon as they learned that I want- 
 ed one, twenty or thirty surrounded me, each proclaim- 
 ing the superiority of his animal. I did not want to go 
 at that moment, so crowding to the margin of the mob I 
 ran as fast as I could down a side street. One of them 
 gave a signal to another company ahead of me, and they 
 started to meet me, the former following, and so hemmed 
 
99 
 
 nie in between the walls, full forty of them, each with a 
 donkey to let, and each determined that I should ride 
 his. Seeing no way of escape, I took out my knife and 
 began hacking as if I would cut them to pieces and try- 
 ing to look as desperate as possible, but all to no avail ; 
 they never noticed the knife more than if I had had 
 none, so I took a donkey and am sure the worst donkey 
 boy in Egypt, and started to see the remains, of Egypt's 
 old university town. On the road I passed a cemetery 
 where they were burying a babe without a coffin, as they 
 have no timber out of which to make coffins. It was 
 wrapped up very tightly, rather I should say bound up, 
 laid in a recess on one side of a shallow grave and the 
 sand and gravel poured in upon it. I was ordered to 
 quit the place before .he interment was complete, which 
 I afterward learned was because I was unclean; being 
 only a Christian I had no right, and they determined not 
 to suffer me to pollute the sacred place. 
 
 On leaving I saw a woman veiled and seated about 
 fifty yards away weeping aloud. I asked my donkey-boy 
 the cause of her weeping ; he said she was the child's 
 mother. I asked why she was there alone. " She does 
 not w^ant the men to see her face," he said. 
 
 It was my fortune to witness two other funeral proces- 
 sions the same day. One was that of Haggar Ali, evi- 
 dently a man of distinction and popularity, by the style- 
 and size of the procession, and the fact that ten widows 
 were following his bier, over which most gorgeous ban- 
 ners floated high in the air. 
 
 Another corpse followed by a large concourse and five 
 wives, had been no doubt a man of importance, whose- 
 name I never learned ; both had been entirely too much 
 married. The procession accompanying these corpses 
 
100 
 
 'made vocal and martial music, wherefore I judged tliem 
 to have been government or army officials. 
 
 AVe passed on the way to On a multitude of Arabs 
 formed in a circle about thirty feet in diameter. We 
 paused to ascertain the cause of the excitement. A 
 snake-charmer had two striped snakes about a yard long 
 Tv^hich were crawling about over his bare shoulders, arms 
 .and neck, and he was making his little boy, about five 
 years old, handle them in the same way. The boy very 
 reluctantly undertook his part, w^hereupon the father (if 
 he were a father) would take a clamp made of iron, spring 
 it open, run one end in the boy's mouth, the other resting 
 on his cheek and pressing so tightly that the blood would 
 •ooze out, while he would stand off and deliver an ani- 
 mated speech in Arabic to the delighted spectators, not 
 .seeming to notice his boy, whose anguish was expressed 
 in wailings and tears. I could not willingly witness such 
 inhuman conduct and hurried away. 
 
 Nothing of interest remains at On save the obelisk, 
 '66i feet high and the oldest one standing, said to have 
 been erected "1740 B. 0. by Usertasen, under whom 
 .Joseph came to Egypt," — Wilkinsoii, — at which Moses 
 and Joseph before, must often have looked, and perhaps 
 criticised the hieroglyphics on it. Under its shadow 
 Plato studied Philosophy, and our Savior in infancy 
 may have looked at it, as the tree called tne " Virgin's 
 Tree," where the holy family is said to have rested, when 
 they fled into Egypt, is nearly in sight. It is an old syc- 
 amore, similar in appearance to a mulberry, cut and 
 .scarred by vain tourists, standing about eighty yards 
 from the highway; it is reached by passing through a gate 
 and the walks of a lovely garden, where bachsheesh is 
 is^anted when you enter, while you stay and when you 
 
101 
 
 leave; in fact the gate-keei^er refused to let me out until 
 T had satisfied some half-dozen urchins who seized my 
 donkey's bridle and tail when I mounted to start and 
 wanted more ; but after all you can often satisfy half a 
 dozen of them with a dime, while again they will clamor 
 until they have gotten two or three times as much as 
 they have earned, and the only way to deal -with them 
 satisfactorily is to fix the price of everything before- 
 starting with them, pay^this^only at the end of the jour- 
 ney, or they will never complete it. 
 
 I went with a gentleman of Dr. Whigham's party to^ 
 the i^yramids the first day we were in Cairo. We bar- 
 gained to give fifteen shillings for a carriage and guide,, 
 he unwittingly paid him before reaching our hotel, and 
 because we did not give "backsheesh," he stopped, we- 
 paid him a shilling to go on, he drove about fifty yards 
 and stopped again, wanting^more "backsheesh," and we- 
 could not urge him farther. We reached the hotel on 
 foot. It was our first day amongst them and we had not 
 learned their tricks. They are superlatively filthy,, 
 though some are scrupulously cleanly. We saw hun- 
 dreds of them lying on the streets asleep in the scorch- 
 ing sunshine. In the main they are very healthy look- 
 ing; they live on bread and vegetables, rice and buffalo- 
 milk. 
 
 There was a fine mission work being prosecuted here 
 in Cairo, under Dr. Lansing and Dr. Bliss (who has 
 since died) of the Presbyterian Church. We visited, 
 them and heard them relate how they had moved on 
 from a small beginning to large success. We saw about 
 one hundred young Arab men belonging to their school 
 in a debating society, discussing some query in quite a. 
 
102 
 
 lively manner, but it was all Arabic to us. The mis- 
 sionary at Luqsor was absent while we were there, but 
 we met several of his pupils which are more or less cred- 
 itable to him. I think he is doing a fair work. How 
 they can endure the summer here is more than I can un- 
 derstand. Life must be in great peril later in the sea- 
 son. But when the Lord said, "\Y\io will go for us ?" 
 the love of Christ and souls constrained them and they 
 said, "Here am I, send me." 
 
 I and Mr. Merrill went to the Boulac Museum, the 
 the most important of any in the world on some accounts. 
 Here are the best preserved and most numerous works of 
 art of the ancient Egyptians and the most illustrous 
 mummies that now exist or perhaps ever will. Julius 
 Caesar or even Alexander the Great, would be modern 
 beside these hoary monarchs. But here they are in a 
 state of excellent preservation. 
 
 Here is Sethi I., whose tomb we explored at Thebes 
 done in bass-relief from the entrance to the most remote 
 recesses, at a cost, no doubt, reckoning on our basis of 
 valuing time and labor, of millions of dollars. Fully ten 
 thousand square feet of surface was filled with raised 
 hieroglyphics. He is the Pharaoh, whose daughter 
 found little Moses, at whose table Moses ate, on whose 
 knees he sat, these same hands no doubt smoothed back 
 the curls from his parched brow many a day when he 
 came in from play. He is a little above the medium 
 height and very bright. Just beside him is his son, 
 Rameses the 11. , commonly called Rameses the Great. 
 Hejs dark, owing probably to the discoloring effect of the 
 •embalming material. He began to rule on the throne 
 at 11 years of age, and waged war at 7 3'ears of age, he 
 
103 
 
 ruled 67 .years altogether; he was three years younger 
 than Moses and no doubt they had many a boyish joust 
 and turn down m the Nile. He is that Pharaoh who 
 was angry at Moses, when he heard that Moses had 
 taken an Egyptian's life, and he sought to kill him, and 
 Moses fled from his face and from Egypt until Rameses 
 was dead ; he is the author of the largest Monolith image 
 ever made ; under him Egypt obtained quiet from all 
 her enemies. 
 
 He is known to Egyptologists as the Pharaoh of the 
 oppression (of the IsraeHtes.) 
 
 Beside these is Thothmes the 3rd, known as the Na- 
 poleon of Egypt, because he was the greatest of her 
 warriors. Under him Egypt " placed her frontier where 
 she pleased." "On the beautiful stela of victory of Thoth- 
 mes III, at Boulaq, it is written: I Anion have spread 
 the fear of thee to the four pillars of heaven."— ^6ers. 
 
 Standing in the presence of these old monarchs of 
 antiquity and thinking of the changes since their day 
 and how they laid the foundation to so large an extent 
 of all subsequent civilization, it seems as if the ends of 
 the earth were come together. 
 
 As I looked down upon their upturned faces that did 
 not seem more than a decade to have suffered by the 
 ravages of time, I thought of the poet's words : 
 
 "The cloud-capped towers, the gorgeous palaces, 
 The solemn temples, the great globe itself, 
 Yea, all which it inherit, shall dissolve ; 
 And, like this insubstantial pageant faded. 
 Leave not a rdck behind : We are such stuff 
 As dreams are made of, and our little life 
 Is rounded with a sleep." —Tempest. 
 
 One is awed in the presence of the universal slayer's 
 
104 
 
 mighty victims. Could those silent lips but speak, what 
 stories could they relate ! What light cast upon the 
 dark and distant past, about our fathers who went down 
 into Egypt, and sojourned there, in a strange land; 
 about these old tombs and temples, obelisks and pyra- 
 mids, through which the antiquarian wanders, and pon- 
 ders, vainly trying to make them reveal their secrets. 
 Could it be authoritatively announced that on a given 
 day they would rise in their coffins and tell their expe- 
 riences, what a pilgrimage of Savants there would be. 
 Every additional item of knowledge, however, only con- 
 firms our sacred records. The sight of these old kings 
 was well worth the journey to Egypt, and had I seen no 
 more should have felt myself to be well repaid. I said 
 rest on old heroes to wield the sword of truth more 
 mighty than the ones of steel that gave you such re- 
 nown ; let your shrivelled hands, though palsied by 
 death, crush the mighty king's ot error, who fain would 
 rob us of the heritage bequeathed us by Moses ; you 
 sought his life then, but remain to defend his teach- 
 ings now; your lifeless bodies, if not worth more to the 
 race than your ambitious spirits challenge, at least, 
 an equal place. 
 
 If man has acquired the skill of thus preserving from 
 decay the perishable body of his fellow-man, what an 
 easy task will it be for the great Creator to summon the 
 scattered particles of those who have not been preserved 
 by the embalmers art, on the resurrection morning ! 
 
 "Why should it be thought a thing incredible that 
 God should raise the dead!" 
 
CHAPTER XII. 
 
 ODDS AND ENDS. 
 
 I noticed in Cairo two footmen dressed in white 
 .frocks to the knees, bare-legged, with long tasseled caps 
 on their heads and bearing long sticks as soldiers carry 
 arms. They trotted about twenty steps in front of a 
 carriage in which an English lady and gentleman were 
 seated. These fellows will hire as footmen to run all 
 dfiy for two and a half cents per hour, or even less. 
 Cheap p ges. 
 
 On the way up I noticed the natives cleaning out a 
 canal ; fully one thousand of them were at work, most 
 of them without a shred of clothing, which fact seemed 
 not to embarrass them in the least. They did not have 
 a spade, a wheel-barrow, nor cart, but standing in rows 
 of five, six, seven and eight, or nine, the first in the bot- 
 tom of the canal cut out a chunk of mud weighing ten 
 or fifteen pounds with his hands, passed it on to the sec- 
 ond and he to the third up the bank until it reached the 
 top, where the last man took it and cast it as far as he 
 could. Some of them were standing two and three feet 
 deep in the mud. Their manner of ditching was about 
 as primitive as that of North Carolinians in working the 
 public roads, in some counties. 
 
 The clover of Egypt grows about three feet high, is 
 very nourishing to herbivorous animals, and is cut 
 
106 
 
 with a knife. I did not see a mowing scythe in the 
 country. One can sit down and cut as much as he can 
 carry without moving. They carry camel loads (about 
 five hundred or six hundred pounds) and donkey loads 
 of it to the towns every day. These loads of grass 
 borne by donkeys often present a laughable sight — 
 
 ^^> 
 
 
 WATER CARRIER. 
 
 nothing but the feet of the animal is seen, or possibly a 
 pair of ears and a tail and feet ; the rest is enveloped in 
 a great mound of green clover. One can buy enough of 
 it to support a donkey or a horse for a day for three or 
 four cents. 
 
107 
 
 On all the highways great numbers of women can be 
 seen gathering dung, which is made into cakes, dried in 
 the sun, and stored away for fuel, with which they cook. 
 They are driven to this extremity beca'use no timber 
 except for fruit and shade is found. 
 
 Tlie Arabs have a market day every week ; on that 
 day every one who has anything to sell, or who wishes 
 to buy, will go to the bazaar, often with long trains of 
 laden camels fastened tandem. The first is ridden or 
 led, a rope halter with an iron piece under the chin of 
 the second, hurting him if he pull back, fastens him 
 to the saddle of the first ; the third is in like manner 
 fastened to the second, and so on till a caravan is easily 
 managed by one driver. If th^y live near the city they 
 pause on the suburbs, as there is a tax on everything 
 that passes the city boundaries. One often sees as many 
 as a thousand, and half as many donkeys and camels, 
 all seated on the ground, (except the donkeys) with all 
 the products of the country and every article imported 
 into the country for sale. On market day only will you 
 find them there. If they are far from the city they 
 have a meeting place in the country, where they bring 
 horses, donkeys, sheep, goats and cattle, and spend the 
 day trading. 
 
 As priests in the Greek and Catholic churches are 
 distinguished by their caps, so the different sects of 
 Mohammedans are also. The ordinary Arab wears a 
 red fez with a black tassel in the center of the crown. I 
 have read that families were once distinguished by the 
 color of the fez. I was told that those who have made 
 the pilgrimage to Mecca are afterwards entitled to wear 
 a green fez. The Dervish wears a gray fez with double 
 the altitude of an ordinary red fez and four times the 
 bulk or thickness ; in fact it is made of the same ma- 
 terial as a saddle blanket and as thick. 
 
108 
 
 There are two sects of Dervishes — the Dancers and 
 Howlers. The first sway their bodies to and fro and 
 whirl around on tip toe, singing, and saying "He is one. 
 He is God," Lah-lllah- Allah! , until exhausted. 
 
 The Howlers will sit cross-legged on the floor and 
 repeat verses of the Koran and whine as they sing or 
 read from their book, swaying their bodies back and 
 forth. None but the Dancing Dervishes allow Christians 
 to be present during the hours of worship on Friday. 
 But they worship anywhere any day, iji a railway car- 
 riage, on the roadside, on the deck of a boat. They 
 generally spread down a handkerchief or blanket on the 
 ground, get on their knees, put their forehead three 
 times to the earth, ]rise and stand, face towards Mecca, 
 touch the lower tip of the ears with the ends of the 
 thumbs, fold their Uiands across the breast, kneel and 
 touch their forehead the fourth time to the ground, 
 usually taking about three minutes to worship. 
 
 A fellow traveller told me a story of an Arab, which is 
 true to life. A physician had taken a very poor Arab 
 to his house and treated him for some disease that 
 promised to prove fatal, but the medical man succeeded 
 in making a cure. When the doctor told his j^^tient 
 that he was well enough to return home, the good mus- 
 sulman thought] that the doctor was under lasting obli- 
 gations for the privilege I of having had such a subject 
 to practice upon, and before leaving told him bethought 
 he (the doctor) should bestow some nice backsheesh 
 (present) by which to| remember him. "The only grat- 
 itude they know'is a lively desire for greater favors." 
 
 Said Joseph was our guide to the tombs of the Kings. 
 He had two wives. We asked him about a multiplicity 
 of wives. He said, "Two wives no good." When the 
 
109 
 
 husband maltreats one wife she carries the caee to a 
 judge, who calls the rascal to account and extracts 
 pledges of good behavior. The punishment of the wife 
 is left to the husband, who is often very brutal. 
 
 We noticed excavations going on around the temple of 
 Luqsor— one which Joseph is supposed by some to have 
 built. The Arabs were reclaiming, under English or 
 French engineers, I did not learn which, this most won- 
 derful seat of ancient worship. About two hundred 
 Arabs were carrying the earth off in flag baskets. Many 
 children were engaged on the job. I pointed out one 
 little girl about five years old, crouched in a sunk place 
 on the bank of the river, lying as flat on the ground as 
 possible. Said I, she is hid to keep from work. We 
 stopped about where she was concealed ; the overseer 
 looking at us discovered her, called her out, abused her, 
 if he did not beat her. She was exhausted no doubt,' 
 and obeyed the voice of nature within her that called 
 for rest. The overseer looked, with a flail in his hand 
 like the pictures we have seen of the task-masters put 
 over the Israelites of old. These living wheel-barrows 
 get from two to fifteen cents per day. 
 
 The American Consul at Luqsor is an Arab, Morad 
 Ah. His son speaks English very well, having been 
 educated at the Mission school there. We were invited 
 to dine with him one day and accepted the invitation 
 We were there to learn. Now in every place one visits 
 111 the east, there are antiquity venders, ^^Geniwine an- 
 tique, Howadjir Antiques vary in price according to 
 the success the manuflicturer has had in making them 
 look old, worn and dingy. 
 
 Our Consul had a large store of antiques. And din- 
 ner over, his son invited us to look at them. That wa^ 
 
110 
 
 the secret of the invitation to dinner. He had a museum 
 indeed, worth a great deal to look at. He sold mum- 
 mies and mummy cases. He had mummy cats thou- 
 sands of years old, hawks, and scarabs worth ten and 
 fifteen pounds sterling. And whatever you priced ' was 
 high, many times the price of the same article sold 
 by one who had no claim to our patronage. So we 
 bought enough to satisfy him that his invitation was ap- 
 preciated and not extended in vain. 
 
 The donkey-boys are equally shrewd, and if their 
 patrons are Americans the}^ name their donkeys after 
 some famous American, if he is English, after some Eng- 
 lish Lord. If French, after Napoleon, Boulanger, &c.' 
 "VVe have rode on Buffalo Bill, Grant, Abraham, Ma- 
 homet and Solomon. 
 
 The following j^aragraph is from a sermon by my 
 comrade, Mr. Merrill, after his return to America: 
 
 For hundreds of miles, beyond where the railway ends and 
 foreign energy steps, you see no separate house upon the land,, 
 the sign of ownership and independence. Only villages of mud 
 rising here and there out of the plain, where the dwellings of 
 the people look like the burrows of animals in a bank of earth. 
 At every landing where the boat touches, are crowds of people, 
 half fed, half clothed, wholly unwashed, indolent, squalid, beg- 
 gars and blind, indifferent, crushed in all their hopes by the 
 miserable government over them, paying two-thirds the price 
 of all products in taxes and often robbed of the rest. With no- 
 capacity to enjoy anything beyond the leeks and black bread 
 that appease their hunger for the hour — with not enough 
 spirit to raise their hands and brush from their fiices the swarm 
 of flies that gather there under the torrid sun. You would not 
 expect in that torpidity, in that lotus eating life, any growth of 
 hope or any desire for something better beyond the borders of 
 the Nile, but I found it even there. I had on the last day at 
 Karnak and Luxon a donkey boy who had learned a little Eng- 
 lish and had, with much enterprise, named his donkey after a 
 
Ill 
 
 certain president of the United States. As he ran beside the 
 animal during the day he asked much about America, and I 
 answered all his questions and asked him if he would like to go 
 there to live. "Yes, yes," he said, "me go with you!" He 
 found out that I was to leave on the steamer at 6 o'clock in the 
 evening and just as I got on board and was looking down upon 
 the deck I saw Hassen, the donkey boy, running down the bank 
 and pushing through the crowd with eager eyes called "you 
 take me ! me go with you !" I wanted to take him but could 
 do nothing. Tossing him a bit of money I answered, "No." 
 His face fell and he was silent, but in a moment after he was 
 gesticulating and calling me again to take him, saying "he would 
 work hard, be good boy and never leave me," and the last view 
 I had of Luxon, as the darkness fell and the steamer moved 
 aw^ay, was of the young Arab, Hassen (the acquaintance of a 
 day) reaching out his hands in the darkness and imploring that 
 he might be taken to America. It seemed to me it was but a 
 repetition of that old cry and of that deep darkness and bond- 
 age out of which God once led the Hebrews into the promised 
 land- a darkness and a bondage that has prevailed for nearly 
 all its history over the face of Egypt. 
 
ilillFfiil^ 
 
 fT^^fiwiiTr^p "T '''''TinTii'n'"J«^ni!|iifi\l 
 
CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 ON SUEZ CANAL. 
 
 Following backward the course over which earthly- 
 kingdoms have passed, we go from the home of the 
 greatest of the first nations. 
 
 As we flew along through the land of Goshen towards 
 ihe Suez Canal, and I read again how God dealt with 
 Pharaoh — the man raised up to show what long suffer- 
 ing and authority belong to God — the story of Joseph, 
 the finest and most succinct delineation of human na- 
 ture, of the domestic affections and the strength of 
 blood affinities, of the special providence of God, of the 
 strength and rewards of faith, of the nature and power 
 of prayer — a story that has ever had a beauty super- 
 natural and a pathos elsewhere unequalled, appeared 
 still more beautiful when I here read it again. 
 
 I tried to picture the two and a half millions of He. 
 brews taking up their line of march towards the Red 
 Sea, and Pharaoh worried almost to death by Moses, a 
 friend, could he but have seen it, after burying his first 
 born, gathering his armies, it may be from the very 
 necropolis, to pursue the malcontents and force them to 
 return, the safe jDassage of the latter and the final ca- 
 tastrophe that overwhelmed the haughty monarch and 
 his hosts. 
 
 We reached Ismail, on the Canal, forty-seven miles 
 from Port Said, where we stayed all night, in one of the 
 prettiest towns on earth. The streets are as straight as 
 
114 
 
 an arrow, well shaded, macadamised and intersected b}^ 
 street car lines. The inhabitants are French and Arabs,, 
 and number three or four thousand. 
 
 The next morning was so stormy that we could not 
 go aboard the steamer, because the canal here passes 
 thiough lake Timsah, five miles in length, and the 
 waves were so violent we could not come near enough 
 in small boats to board her, and we had to walk three 
 miles to pier No. 6, at the north-west end of the lake. 
 There were many weakly ladies in the company, some 
 of whom could not obtain conveyances and w^ho had to 
 walk also, and were of course exhausted. They were 
 under the supervision of tourists' agents and held an: 
 indignation meeting that evening, after reaching Port 
 Said, severely censuring Cook & Son for allowing them 
 to suffer such inconveniences and also for detaining 
 them a day too long at Port Said. 
 
 Port Said is three hours, by steamer, from Ismail, on 
 the Suez Canal, cut all the way through the desert. It 
 was so very windy that the air was filled with sand, and 
 one could not see over a hundred yards. Dredges 
 worked by steam are engaged lifting sand from the bot- 
 tom of the canal by a number of large buckets fastened 
 to an endless belt or chain. These buckets j^ass over a- 
 large spout, inclining downwards from the dredge and 
 reaching a hundred feet or more from the canal. Into 
 this spout the buckets empty their load of sand and 
 water and it flows far off" on the shore, and thus the 
 canal is kept navigable. It is seventy-two feet wide at 
 the base, at the narrowest place, and widening out to 
 two and three hundred feet where the banks are low. 
 The water is twenty-six feet deep. 
 
 The day we spent at Port Said is never to be forgot-- 
 
115 • 
 
 ten. It was the Sabbadi. Our steamer was appointedl 
 to sail that day, but could not load her cargo, though 
 the sailors labored hard all da}'. The passengers went 
 in a body to the office and tried to iorce the officers into- 
 measures, but all in vain. It was late in the afternoon 
 Monday before she sailed. AVe were all shocked at 
 seeing them load the boat on Sunday, but protested 
 against having to rest ourselves. I remarked to Mr. M.,. 
 it seems as if the Lord meant to make us rest to-day 
 any-way, and though we went with the multitude, (shall 
 I say to do evil?) amongst whom were four or five 
 clergymen beside, we were glad of the delay. Our 
 rule was not to travel on Sundays. All sorts of 
 people live here — Arabs of course, (the country is- 
 full of them) Germans, English, but more French ; the 
 Arabs seem to take to the French and vice versa, besides 
 the French followed De Lesseps, the canal builder, here 
 and remained. No standard of morality is required, 
 hence the most shocking scenes are common. Sailors 
 of every nationality continually coming and going find 
 a populace ever ready to commingle on the lowest moral 
 stratum and pander to the most vicious tastes. 
 
 We inquired for a church, but none could be found. 
 There is a large square where a band plays Sunday- 
 afternoon, and thousands are coming and going all the 
 time. This is the only place where we saw Caucasians 
 and Arabs intermarried. There were hundreds of rag- 
 a-muffins parading the streets. Little girls from five to- 
 ten years of age with dresses that touched the ground 
 wearing bustles large as water-buckets, and sporting 
 beaux, presented a sight altogether novel to us, and ex- 
 tremely ridiculous. Men were dressed in female attire, 
 and perhaps females were dressed as men. Whites were- 
 blacked, and the band and soldiers burlesqued by reck- 
 
116 
 
 lees boys, with all manner of squeaking instruments, and 
 sticks for swords and guns — wearing false faces, &c. 
 Thus the French holiday takes the place of the Christian 
 Sabbath of rest and worship, and as a further conse- 
 quence gambling hells and other ruinous institutions oc- 
 cupy where churches should have been built and Sun- 
 day schools carried on. 
 
 An Arab boy persisted in an effort to black my shoes, 
 against all protestations, though I told him he should 
 not, with all possible earnestness and emphasis, until, 
 seeing escape from him was impossible, I told him I 
 would not pay him. He followed, however, occasion- 
 ally getting a stroke at them until he thought them pol- 
 ished sufficiently to justify a claim for pay. He then 
 began to beg ; I was unconcerned for a long w^iile, wish- 
 ing to see how long he would hold out ; he probably 
 would have stayed until night had not a stranger stand- 
 ing by slapped him over, or had I not left. 
 
 But to have any fair estimate of Port Said one must 
 see it. On the greatest thoroughfare of the world it has 
 caught up many of the worst of travellers' habits. It 
 would be a great strategic point for missionary opera- 
 tions. 
 
 The great iron-clads of France, England and Turkey, 
 that lie in waiting there continually for any safety their 
 commerce may demand, teach us that we too, as a 
 church or churches, should occupy and defend inter- 
 ■ests dearer than all else. 
 
 At last the Venus is ready to sail to Joppa and with 
 regret we cast a last look upon old Egypt, wonderful in 
 rivers and ruins, people and pyramids, an atmosphere 
 translucent, a desert more awful if not sublime than 
 mountains or ocean, a sky in a peculiar sense "inlaid 
 
117 
 
 with patens of bright gold," and gardens as fertile as 
 Eden. 
 
 "Egypt, to which Abraham, the father of the faithful went' 
 when the ftimine was sore in his land ; to which Joseph was 
 sold ; and to which the sons of Jacob went as their great-grand 
 father, Abraham, had done before, because there was corn in 
 Egypt ; and to which pious Jacob followed captive Benjamin to 
 receive an imperial welcome from long lost Joseph; Egypt 
 where the children of Israel were in bondage four hundred 
 years. Egypt, birthplace of Moses, whose life voyage began on 
 the Nile, in an ark of bulrushes ; scene of most wonderful dis- 
 plays of Jehovah's power, when river and air, sea and sky trem- 
 bled with horror as an earthly potentate refused to obey the In- 
 finites' command, "Let my people go"; whence he brought them 
 out with a high hand and an outstretched arm ; Egypt, which 
 in the long history of Israel till the coming of the Son of Man 
 was so intimately associated for good or for evil with God's 
 chosen people that Dean Stanley calls it "the mother country'' 
 of Palestine, and which at last was a refuge for the Saviour of 
 the world when "He came unto His own, and His own received 
 Him not.' - Egypt, fRreweUr—Ohservations Abroad. 
 
CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 THE OLDEST SEAPORT 
 
 Standing with fifty or sixty other passengers on deck 
 ■of the steamship Venus, of the Austrian Lloyd Line, 
 on March the 5th, the first gray streaks of dawn reveal- 
 ed to us the lowlying country of Philistia to the south- 
 east and the ashy colored range of Judean hills stretch- 
 ing away to Mt. Carmel in the north and to Hebron in 
 the south. What feelings of mingled joy and thankful- 
 ness filled each heart in anticipation of what la}^ before 
 us. We were so soon now to make our way across 
 those mountains to that city of all earthly ones most 
 dear to Jew and Christian, and only second in sacredness 
 to the Mussulman. 
 
 I was profoundly grateful that the fond hopes of many 
 years were so soon to find full fruition ; that I should 
 have the privilege of visiting the land made sacred by 
 the footsteps of the Son of God and some of the places 
 once so dear to him ; that my feet should press the soil 
 once trodden by him as he toiled and taught. 
 
 With reverence new we hail this giant among the 
 continents — oldest yet least understood — holding half 
 of the human race ; birthplace of races, religions, su- 
 perstitions. Here "tenacious Judaism, progressive and 
 spiritual Christianity;" indomitable, insolent Moham- 
 etanism, Budhism, Confucianism and other isms began. 
 
 If God ever spake to man in the vocabulary of earth, 
 to tell of an infinite love and a glorious destiny, and 
 
120 
 
 how to attain unto the fullest measure of life for time 
 and eternity, it was beneath yon skies into which we 
 look, under which we soon shall stand. No marvel if 
 excitement thrills in every face, in every act. 
 
 VCe are not of the majority who at this season rough 
 seas deny a landing. The fear we all had of not being 
 able to land, was dispelled, and increased our pleasure 
 at seeing our ship drop anchor in the oldest and worst 
 of seaports — whence Jonah sailed when he had such a 
 bad landing, and wliither the wood that went into Solo- 
 mon's temple viRS shipped. Our crew was a medley ot 
 Americans, Britons, French, Germans, Italians, Rus- 
 sians, Turks, Arabs, Copts and Ethiopians — Christians, 
 Jews and Mohammedans — Tourists, Pilgrims, Scientists, 
 Preachers, Teachers, Doctors and Merchants. 
 
 At sunrise the ship's great heart ceases to beat at 
 Joppa. Her coming was anticipated, as evidenced by a 
 score of boats manned by athletic Arabs hurrying over 
 the swelling sea in their eagerness to secure customers. 
 Some of them fly red flags with the names of H. Gaze 
 & Co., Thos. Cook & Son, and RoUa Floyd, in letters of 
 w^hite. These have come out for those tourists who may 
 be traveling under their auspices. 
 
 Rolla Floyd, with whom we stopped, is a Yankee by 
 birth, but confines himself to Palestine, while the names 
 of the other tw^o are seen around the w^orld. Both have 
 headquarters in London, and are very necessary to those 
 tourists who prefer to pay others for fighting their way 
 through Italians, Arabs, Chinese and Japs, and for im- 
 munity from the responsibilities and security against the 
 contingencies incident upon travel in strange lands. 
 
 From our ship about half a mile from shore, we watch 
 the waves rushing in by the classic rocks, to one of 
 
121 
 
 which m}'1;hology says the beautiful Andromeda, on 
 account of Juno's jealousy, was chained, and rescued by 
 Perseus, becoming afterwards his bride. After death 
 she was translated to heaven, where she still occupies a 
 place in the constellation with her mother Cassiope. 
 They wash the shore at the very base of the house of 
 Simon the tanner, where Peter lodged and saw the won- 
 derful sheet let down from heaven, containing "all man- 
 ner of four-footed beasts and wild beasts, and creeping 
 things and fowls of the air," revealing to his then too 
 narrow mind the wideness of God's mercy in the Gospel 
 dispensation, which is as the "wideness of the sea," and 
 marvellously enlarging his idea of a preacher's mission. 
 On the top of which, or one in its place, I afterward 
 went myself; and in order to be sure of standing where 
 Peter did, if he did, went all over it. From this stand- 
 point one sees the "great sea" stretch far away north, 
 west and south. Peter's eye no doubt swept that hori- 
 zon in meditation, and watched the restless tides that 
 beat upon that rocky shore, typifying the human hordes 
 that had swept over Judea's hills and plains before and 
 since the days of Noah. 
 
 "Monarclis of Palestine, and Kings of Tyre, 
 
 And tlie brave Maccabee have all been here; 
 
 And Cestius, with his Roman plunderers; 
 
 And Saladin and Baldwin, and the host 
 
 Of fierce crusaders, from the British north, 
 
 And shook their swords above thee, and their blood 
 
 Flowed down like water to thine ancient sea." 
 
 So we will go ashore. We will land here whence Jonah 
 sailed, on a firmer footing than he found on quitting 
 his bark. We wish to tread the soil of the Holy Land. 
 
 I am in the Holy Land ! What revelations await m}' 
 
122 
 
 journey through it ! Sweet were the optimistic dreams 
 of her inspired seers. Shall the sweet waters of Cherith 
 brook or Siloe's "that flowed fast by the oracle of God,'' 
 or skies of marvelous softness, or the hills made sacred 
 by the presence and frequent discourses of our Lord 
 cause me to experience a kindred enlargement and make 
 me still more hopeful of the strife? 
 
 I am going to "walk about Zion and go round about 
 her, tell the towers thereof, mark well her bulwarks, 
 consider her palaces, that I m\y return and tell it to the 
 generation following." Will I feel as the Psalmist did? 
 And if I do not, nor witness the sights so dear to him, 
 nor feel the confidence in the supremacy and final uni- 
 versal racial triumph of Israel that her |)rophets di , 
 conclude that these leaders in happy, sanguine hours 
 were only overwhelmed with self-gratulation at their 
 own providential election and dazed by hoi)es impossi- 
 ble of realization, shall I doubt the stability of the Di- 
 vine government that for the present seems to be taking 
 small cognizance of the chosen race ? 
 
 Has fancy woven a web now to b^ \mraveled ? Has 
 imagination reveled in a vista to fade when entered like 
 the mirage? Shall the reverence and divine poesy that 
 have ever clustered about the names of Judea, Jerusa- 
 lem, Hebron, Galilee and Nazareth be dispelled? Shall 
 the halo that has ever encircled the Holy Land, cutting 
 it ofi" from all others, vanish into thin air and leave it 
 to be merged into the vast community of countries, and 
 so make me loser of the inheritance of all my Christian 
 life, until I shall regret the knowledge that increases my 
 sorrow and the wealth that is worse than poverty ? Shall 
 I discover some of the "mistakes of Moses ?" And see 
 how that after all he did not lead the Israelites hither? 
 
128 
 
 Shall I see that much blindness'^ and natural environ- 
 ment conduce to ocular delusion? And find facts 
 favorable to doubting if not denying the probability of 
 miracle ? Especially that greatest of miracles the resur- 
 rection from the dead ? Which stands out before the 
 hopes of millions like a colossal tower, where they can 
 shelter when the storms of life beat tempestuously about 
 them and floods of adversity threaten to engulf them — 
 whose wholesome shade protects them when solstitia]^ 
 suns dry up all the flowers that bloom along their path 
 and wither all the green branches of earthly prospects — 
 a tower pointing heavenward, around whose spiral stair 
 hope ascends, till the din of earthly strife dies out be- 
 low and the child of sorrow has all his tears and fears 
 dispelled ? 
 
 But "we shall see what we shall see." 1 will gain 
 what I may from the land as well as from the Book; 
 and if not in this mountain, nor yet in Jerusalem the 
 true worshipers worship the Father, some dormant sen- 
 timent may be awakened, some active power intensified. 
 I may learn from the lilies of the field ; the thorny, 
 stony, rich ground, the faithful shepherd, with ever im- 
 perilledj flockf. I will note the barren and fruitful fig 
 tree; the fisherman and his nets; the ever waiting 
 penny -a-day laborers ; the fountain open in time of 
 drouth. I will read the words of the Book, as nearly 
 
 *Three per cf-nt. of the population are blind, and twenty per cent, have 
 injured eyes. Because of the scarcity of water they seldom, if ever, wash. 
 I never saw a washpan or basin in an Arab bazaar while among- them, 
 and the same customs are followed to a large extent as in the Savior's 
 time, I think. I judge it was their custom not to use much water gener- 
 ally. They also wear turbans or hats without brims, and the sun Is very 
 hot. No doubt for these reasons there was about as much blindness then 
 as now 
 
 :!:We saw a boy drive a fox from his flock one day about noon. He ran 
 towards us and turned down the hill and hid under the rocks, where "the 
 foxes have holes," in sight of Jerusalem. 
 
 tAt night the flocks are put into pens made of stone, over which it is 
 difficult or impossible for foxes and jackals to climb. Sometimes they are 
 put in large caves under the hillside, and the shepherd sleeps in the cave's 
 mouth. 
 
124 
 
 as I may where they were spoken, and study from all 
 possible standpoints the ways of God to man. and from 
 my treasury thus replenished, bring to my Master's ser- 
 vice as much as I mav, things new and old. 
 
CHAPTER XV. 
 
 FROM JOPPA TO JERUSALEM. 
 
 The last chapter relates our emotions on entering Pal- 
 estine. We halt a clay at Joppa to visit Simon the tan- 
 ner's house referred to in Acts, chapter 10, and the fine 
 orange groves, of which there are many producing about 
 8,000,000 a year valued at about one mctterlich (1 cent) 
 each. Probably no larger or sweeter are grown any- 
 where. Self-indulgence, freed from domestic economy 
 expands in the stingy traveler, we freely tested Joppa 
 oranges and pronounce them first class. 
 
 There are two good mission schools and a hospital in 
 Christian hands which we visited. Miss Arnott has 
 given her fortune and her life to teaching young Arab 
 girls how to become Christian wives and mothers. We 
 can testify to the efficiency of her efforts from exhibi- 
 itions of her pupils on the occasion of our visit. 
 
 Rev. J. R. Long has a male school under his control. 
 
 Miss Bessie Mangan succeeded in founding what is 
 known as the Mildmay Hospital, where hundreds have 
 been nursed and thousands treated, including Jews, Mos- 
 lems, Greeks, Latins and Maronites. We noted the po- 
 liteness and attention of the deaconesses, the contented- 
 ness of the patients and the promise of the whole insti- 
 tution as an agent for our Lord and tor poor humanity. 
 
 The road from Joppa to Jerusalem is almost a perfect 
 road. It passes Ramleh, the home of Joseph of Arima- 
 thea (?) Bareh or Gibeah, the Valley of Ajalon, where 
 
126 
 
 Joshua commanded the smi and moon to stand still un- 
 til he vanquished the Philistines, Ajalon belonged to 
 Dan, Josh. 19:42. We stopped to dine at Latrum about 
 half way to Jerusalem: It is traditionally held to be 
 the home of the penitent thief, who was said to be 
 named Disma and a robber of travelers. Latro is Latin 
 for robber and no doubt Latrum was the home of this or 
 some other robber. Abou Josch or Kirjath-jearim is 
 about nine miles from Jerusalem. Here the Ark of 
 God rested 20 years. The name signifies city of woods ' 
 it is in a semi-circular cove of the hills, somewhat like 
 an amphitheatre. I felt strange emotions as I read I 
 Chron. 13:5 : "David gathered all Israel together from Shi- 
 hor of Egypt even unto the entering of Hemath. to bring 
 the ark of God from Kirjath-jearim/' and Ps. 132:6—8: 
 
 "Lo, we heard of it at Ephratah ; we found it in the 
 fields of the wood. 
 
 We will go into his tabernacles ; we will worship at 
 his footstool. 
 
 Arise, Lord, into thy rest; thou, and the Ark of thy 
 strenojth." 
 
 AVhat a multitude of people, all rejoicing with their 
 king as they move along towards Jerusalem. 
 
 Perhaps the procession was many miles long. Sud- 
 denly they pause at the front. What is the matter? A 
 man falls dead. Uzza, ignorant of the command of God, 
 showing the sole manner of carrying the ark, when he 
 thought to save it from falling from the cart, is struck 
 dead for his rashness, and unutterable confusion ensues. 
 David is chagrined ; everybody disappointed and afraid 
 to meddle further, and ignorant of the plainest direction, 
 they leave the Ark at the home of Obed Edom, where 
 it stayed for three months, in which time David and the 
 
127 
 
 priests read up a little, and had better success in mov- 
 inir it. The next place of interest is Kalomeh, near 
 which it is claimed John the Baptist was born, and 
 southwest of which is a Valley, Wacbj es Sumpt, in whicli 
 tradition says David slew Gohath. In another hour we 
 reach Jerusalem and stop at the Jerusalem hotel, about 
 five minutes walk from the Joppa gate and the tower of 
 David. 
 
 Wp:dnesj)ay Evening, March Gth. 
 
 Rev. C. D. Merrill, a Presbyterian minister of Cah- 
 fornia, with whom I had traveled through Egypt, and 
 myself contracted with Isa (Esau) Lobat to take us to 
 Jericho, Jordan, the Dead Sea, Marsaba and Bethlehem, 
 returning to Jerusalem the third day, for one hundred 
 and fifty francs, about thirty dollars. We set out after 
 12 o'clock lunch the next day. A good donkey and 
 donkey boy carried provisions, and a guard with a belt 
 full of cartridges and a fine breech loading rifle repre- 
 sented the Ottoman empire protecting her guests. We 
 had good horses shod with an oval piece of sheet-iron, 
 without heels or toes, so shaped as to present to the road 
 a convex surface, a rocker, four very large nails on each 
 side held them on. thus all their horses are shod. 
 
 We go out of Jerusalem on the north side, and under 
 the hill now supposed to be the hill Calvary, by the 
 place where tradition says Stephen was stoned, cross the 
 Valley of Jehoshaphat, pass the garden of Gethsemane 
 and near to Absalom's pillar (tomb) up the south side 
 of Olivet, through the Jewish cemetery, where one could 
 walk over ten or twenty acres on tombs without touching 
 the ground, over the spot where, it is thought, Jesus wept 
 over the city, by two large stone columns supposed to be 
 
128 
 
 the remnant of the house of Simon the Leper. Then to 
 Bethany on the east side of the hill, where a little house 
 built of limestone is shown as the house of Mary and 
 Martha, now kept for backsheesh. We came in an hour 
 to the Apostles' fountain, and in two hours to an inn or 
 khan, where it is claimed the good Samaritan deposited 
 the unfortunate traveler and two pence for his support. 
 We are going down to Jericho over' the remains of the 
 old Roman road over which, no doubt, Herod once 
 could ride in a chariot, though it does not look as if it 
 were ever good enough for that. We meet ''robbers" (?) 
 every mile or so. About the middle of the afternoon 
 we reach the ravine that contains the brook Cherith, 
 where Elisha lived in troublous times. And the word of 
 the Lord came unto him, saying : " Get thee hence, and 
 turn thee eastward, and hide thyself by the brook Cher- 
 ith, that is before Jordan. And it shall be, that thou 
 shalt drink of the brook; and I have commanded the 
 ravens to feed thee there. So he went and did accord- 
 ingfunto the word of the Lord : for he went and dwelt 
 by the brook Cherith, that is before Jordan. And the 
 ravens brought him bread and flesh in the morning, and 
 bread and flesh in the evening ; and he drank of the 
 brook " ; the sides of the gorge often show perpendicular 
 faces many hundred feet high. Isa said the Greeks had 
 built a church on the supposed site of Elisha's repose. 
 We reined up our horses and could hear the brook leap- 
 ing over cataracts, going down to Jcicho too. Herod 
 the Great conducted this stream through an aqueduct to 
 the imperial city of Jericho. Portions of this aqueduct 
 still remain, though Jericho abides under the curse of 
 Joshua till to-day ; not a house remains. About sunset, 
 having descended nearly four thousand feet since noon, 
 
129 
 
 we crossed Cherith, paused and drank of its sweet, 
 limpid waters, rode two miles farther to Elisha's Fomi- 
 tain, whose waters, bitter no more, are very warm, say 
 80° Fah. We went about a mile farther through fra- 
 grant thorny shrubbery growing on the banks of the 
 stream from Elijah's Fountain, and said to yield the 
 fruit from which is made "balm of Gilead," and rest at 
 the Russian Hospice on the site of ancient Gilgal. We 
 retire amid the howls of jackals and the miserable music 
 and dancing of the Bedouins AAdio 
 
 "Vex with mirth the drowsy ear of night," 
 
 to the delight of another party of tourists near by. We 
 rise early next morning, ride across the plain to Jordan, 
 by the same way, perhaps, the spies went when Rahab 
 sent them off, to the place where Jesus Avas baptized 
 possibly. Multitudes of pilgrims come here every year 
 to be baptized. Here the Israelites catered the prom- 
 ised land, while the waters of Jordan stood on a heap, 
 here Jordan was parted again when Elijah passed over 
 to be carried to heaven in a chariot of fire. On the way 
 we saw two women grinding corn or wheat in a mill. 
 The Jordan was muddy, rapid, deep, and about two 
 hundred feet wide. We cut some pipe stems and canes 
 and proceeded to the Dead Sea. I did not notice any- 
 thing specially differing from other lakes of water, except 
 its very bitter saltness, almost as strong to the taste as 
 potash. It is in the midst of sterility. Some parties 
 went bathing in it, but we did not, as it leaves a gum 
 upon one's cuticle, which is very unpleasant unless one 
 bathes afterwards in fresh water, which we did not have. 
 We had provided bottles and filled them with water 
 here, and bathed the hands and face. 
 
131 
 
 The great depression of this funnel-shaped basin' 
 under a Meridian sun, (1292 feet below the Mediterran- 
 ean sea) made it so warm that we had to take off our 
 coats, but the same afternoon, having left the valley, we 
 were in a hail and rain storm up in the mountains that 
 gave us severe colds. 
 
 Tiie face of the hill country is covered with beautiful 
 flowers in the greatest variety. I am not botanist 
 enough to name them, but enjoyed their fragrance and 
 beauty no less on that account. Thousands of bees 
 carry ofl' to the rocks that crown every hill the nectar 
 from their cups, and herds of cows, sheep and goats 
 browse through them to their hearts' content. It is still 
 a land flowing with milk and honey. 
 
 We noticed a great many piles of stone by the way- 
 side, our guide said they were " Moslem prayers," offered 
 up in sight of a mosque or wely (tomb); often twenty 
 stones made an irregular pillar, each stone representing 
 an act of worship. 
 
 A caravan of sixty donkeys laden with about four or 
 five bushels of wheat each, and about twenty drivers, 
 passed us going to Bethlehem to market. These patient 
 little animals never stumble, even on the most rugged 
 hill-side in the most tortuous path, even with a burden 
 as heavy as his own weight upon his back. The "latter 
 rain" was falling, and our guide said that the rain that 
 day would depress the price of wheat half a franc, or 
 ten cents, for, said he, "this rain will about insure a 
 good crop." We spent the night in the Church of St. 
 Saba. It is in the fastnesses of the rocks on one side of 
 the gorge (Kedron) several hundred feet deep. St. Saba 
 is said to have lived in a cave, which is shown here^ 
 with a lion, the austere life of an old monk. His 
 
132 
 
 friends and followers continued to build around the 
 little nucleus until at last a most wonderful structure 
 built of hewn stones and polished stones, stands there 
 to shelter a score of lazy, greasy Greek Priests, who live 
 on bread and olives. No woman is ever supposed 
 to pass within the gates. When we reached the iron 
 portal of the castle, heav}' showers were driven by a 
 north-west wind. We carried a permit from the Patri- 
 arch of Jerusalem, which gained admission for us, after 
 waiting an incredibly long time in the merciless rain. 
 Dr. Thompson thus describes his first visit to this castle 
 or convent : 
 
 "We entered through a low iron door, turned round through 
 a second door, then down again by winding stairs, across queer 
 ■courts and along dark passages, until we reached at length our 
 rooms, hanging between cliffs thai towered to the stars, or 
 seemed to, and yawning gulfs which darkness made bottomless 
 and dreadful, I was struck dumb with astonishment. It was 
 a transition sudden and unexpected, from the wild mountain to 
 the yet wilder, more vague and mysterious scenes of Oriental 
 enchantment. Light gleamed out fitfully from hanging rocks 
 ■and doubtful caverns. Winding stairs, with balustrade and iron 
 rail, ran right up the perpendicular cliffs into rock chambers, 
 where the solitary monk was drowsily muttering his midnight 
 prayers. It was long after that hour before sleep visited my 
 ■eyes, and then my dreams were of Arabs, and frightful chasms, 
 and enchanted castles." 
 
 One of the tenants show^ed us about the labyrinth. 
 There is a chapel built and dedicated to St. Nicholas, 
 one to St. Saba and St. John and the Virgin Mary. In 
 the court-yard is St. Saba's octagonal mausoleum. They 
 showed us, also, a room full of skulls — fourteen thou- 
 sand human skulls — slain by the Persian King Chosrces 
 II, when he stormed and took this stronghold A. D. 616. 
 
 They show, growing b\' the walls, a palm tree that 
 
133 
 
 has miraculous power in certain cases, they say. We 
 bought beads, canes and porcupine quills of them and 
 departed to Bethlehem. 
 
 We go through the borders of the fields of the shep- 
 herds, reaching the city about noon. 
 
 On the spot where it is claimed and conceded our 
 Lord was born is a Christian church, the oldest in the 
 world, in part. A silver star marks the place, and this 
 inscription in latin is around the star, "Here Jesus 
 Christ was born of the Virgin Mary," and a m.arble 
 manger, the place where they laid him, is near by. 
 
 Above these, four rows of lamps of silver and gold 
 burn night and day — one row for each of the four de- 
 nominations of Christians (Greeks, Catholics, Copts and 
 Armenians) to which this church belongs. They all 
 have chapels in the church, and all worship there every 
 Sabbath and occasionally on week days. I witnessed a 
 funeral conducted by the Coptic Christians. It was one 
 of six children that had died with measles that day. 
 The little corpse was laid on the cold marble floor. The 
 Priest and friends were standing in a circle around it, 
 performing the last offices due its mortal remains. 
 
 We went through the chapel of Joseph, where it is 
 said the angel appeared to Joseph and advised him to 
 go into Egypt. 
 
 St. Jerome's chamber is shown here, and he is repre- 
 sented with a lion in a stained glass window. Here he 
 studied and translated the Vulgate. 
 
 "All about us were memorials of the Gospel history, and va- 
 rious altars — one devoted to the Magi, another to the shepherds 
 and another to Joseph — on the spot where they had adored the 
 
134 
 
 Holy Child, or received divine commands. Taking all the cir- 
 cumstances into the account, and comparing the little that can 
 be said against the authenticity of this site with the very pow- 
 erful consideration in its favor, I relinquished myself to the 
 reverential emotions which the belief that I was in the very 
 spot where the infant Saviour lay would naturally inspire in the 
 heart of a Christian.''— O^serra^ion-s Abroad. 
 
 In Bethlehem Boaz lived, and near by Ruth gleaned. 
 Here David was brought up. Here is the "well bj^ the 
 gate," whose w^ater he longed for, and poured out w^hen 
 he might have enjo3^ed it, because it was ''the blood of 
 the men that went in jeopardy of their lives." The 
 people are brighter as in all the towns, and nearly all 
 are Christians, nominally. They call their town Beit 
 Lahm — that is, city of bread. It is well named, for 
 their fields are very lertile and their olive orchards sel- 
 dom fail. It is well named further, because it gave to 
 the world Him who is the ''bread of life" for the world. 
 It is also claimed that the flock over which the shep- 
 herds were keeping watch was the one from which 
 sacrifices were obtained. 
 
 "And there were in the same country shepherds 
 abiding in the field, keeping watch over their flock by 
 night; and, lo, the angel of the Lord came upon them, 
 and the glory of the Lord shone round about them, and 
 they were sore afraid. And the angel said unto them, 
 fear not, for behold I bring you good tidings of great 
 joy, which shall be to all people, for unto you is born 
 this day in the city of David a Saviour, which is Christ 
 the Lord, and this shall be a sign unto you; ye shall 
 find the babe wTapped in swaddling clothes, lying in a 
 manger. And suddenly there was with the angel a 
 multitude of the heavenly host praising God and say- 
 ing : Glory to God in the highest, and on earth peace, 
 
135 
 
 good will toward men. And it came to pass, as the 
 angels were gone away from them into heaven, the shep- 
 herds said one to another, let us now go even unto Beth- 
 lehem and see this thing which is come to pass which 
 the Lord hath made known to us. And they came with 
 haste and found Mary and Joseph and the child lying 
 in a manger." — Luke 2: 8-15. 
 
 Spending a few hours here, we proceeded to Jerusa- 
 lem through a heavy shower of the '"latter rain." pass- 
 ing on the way the tomb of Rachel, where Jacob buried 
 her when Benjamin was born, "near to Ephratah, the 
 same is Bethlehem." We go through the plains of 
 Rephaim, where David "fetched a compass and came 
 upon the Philistines, over against the mulberry trees,'' 
 passing the "well of the star," and in sight of the "val- 
 ley of Roses" on the way. We reach Jerusalem before 
 night on the third day, having visited Jericho, Jordan, 
 the Dead Sea and Bethlehem, and traveled about sixty 
 miles. 
 
 The following Monday we went to Hebron, eighteen 
 miles south of Jerusalem, passing Solomon's pools 
 about half way between the tAVO cities. One of these 
 is 582 feet long, 210 feet wide and 50 feet deep ; the 
 other two are a little smaller. These supply the city 
 with water through aqueducts made of stone and 
 mortar. 
 
 By noon we reached Hebron. Here we saw grape 
 vines doubtless similar to those that flourished in the 
 days of Caleb and Joshua. Hebron, one of the oldest 
 cities on earth, ranking with Damascus in antiquity, is 
 blessed with splendid fountains. We had come up to 
 
136 
 
 look at the parcel of ground that Abraham bought of 
 the sons of Heth " for a possession of a burying-place," 
 and which contams the ashes of Abraham, Isaac and 
 Jacob and their wives. There they buried Abraham 
 and Sarah his wife, there they buried Isaac and Rebekah 
 his wife ; and there I buried Leah. 
 
 This place is as sacred to the Mahometans as to 
 Christians — in fact they claim to be the true children of 
 Abraham — the title of the Hebrew^s being only second, 
 while Christians have no inheritance in him. So sacred 
 is the place that they do not venture to disturb the re- 
 pose of those distinguished sleepers. Nothing short of a 
 mandatory order from the Sultan can turn the ke}' that 
 conceals from common mortals this most revered crypt. 
 We were shown a hole in the wall into w^hich they told 
 us we could thrust our hands and touch the stone under 
 w^hich lie the ashes of heroes w^ho led the race — who 
 made the Bible, largely; w^ho, without precedents, ex- 
 emplars or formulae, gave rules for mankind in the 
 mere record of their experiences. Not being allowed to 
 do more than walk around the walls protecting these 
 men and women, we take our Bible and read Gen. 23 
 and Gen. 50. We tried to imagine the mighty hosts 
 that came up from Egypt with the corpse of Jacob em- 
 balmed. Great man in life, "Prince of God" — worthy 
 of the blood that flows in thy veins, and no less great 
 in death! Sleep on — who knows but thy embalmed body 
 may yet be found and attest anew the records dear to 
 us as life itself 
 
 We went up the valley from Hebron about a mile to 
 see a very old oak called "Abraham's Oak." It is in 
 the plains of Mamre and the only oak about there, and 
 if an oak can live four thousand years, may-be this is 
 
187 
 
 the one under which Abnihiim sat when the angels 
 passed down to destroy >Sodom. If the sequaia gigantea 
 in the Mariposa Grave are live thousand years old, as is 
 claimed, may be this oak is four thousand. Dr. Thomp- 
 son says : "It is a baluta, (evergreen oak) 26 feet in girth, 
 and its thick branches extend over an area ninety feet in 
 diameter." AVe stood on the enchanted ground where 
 Abraham pleaded for the godless city of Sodom, and 
 whose faith in a faithless people arrested his pleadings 
 too soon. 
 
 We bought some of the acorns that grew on the oak, 
 and photographs of it, repaired to our carriage and re- 
 turned to Jerusalem. 
 
CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 MT. CALVARY 
 
 There is, and probably will forever be, dispute about 
 locating the site of Calvary. Two places lay claims to 
 it. One is a hill northeast of the Damascus gate, above 
 a cave called Jeremiah's grotto, many scholars accept 
 this as the true site. Several assert that they were the 
 first to establish the claims of this place, but it is called 
 in Jerusalem, Gordon's Theory. The place is covered 
 with Mohammedan graves. One's first impression when 
 shown this hill is that it answers to the description in 
 the Gospels, and being considerably beyond the city 
 limits and still bare, as if providentially left so, the con- 
 viction is deepened. We append below some facts and 
 suggestions confirmatory of this theory by the Rev. 
 Selah Merrill, D. D. LL. D.: (formerly Consul.) 
 
 " It is known that under the Convent of the Sisters of Zion 
 which is near the Castle of Antonia, but on the opposite side of 
 "Via Dolorosa," there is six or eight feet below the level of the 
 street, some remarkably well preserved ancient pavement, 
 which hundreds of travellers have visited and admired. 
 
 From certain indications we are led to believe that this pave- 
 ment was connected with an ancient street that ran in nearly a 
 direct line from Antonia northwards to the city wall. 
 
 The most important miliary route of Palestine at the time of 
 Christ was that which connected Caesarea-on-the-Sea with Je- 
 rusalem, which it approached from the north. 
 
139 
 
 At the point where the line of the street first mentioned, sup- 
 posing such a street to have existed, touched the city wall, we 
 find an old gate, closed at present, but bearing the significant 
 name of " Herod's Gate." 
 
 If the line of this street be extended be5^ond this so-called 
 *' Herod's Gate," to the northwest, we shall find along it definite 
 traces of an old Roman road. This we find to be identical with 
 the great military road which connected Jerusalem with Caes- 
 area. 
 
 It is perfectly natural to suppose that the place of the public 
 execution of criminals would be somewhere on the line of the 
 road. Between the castle and the fatal spot soldiers who guard- 
 ed the criminals could move to and fro unobstructed. 
 
 A little after this road leaves the wall at the point marked as 
 ^' Herod's Gate " we find on the left hand a hill remarkable in 
 form, noticeable from its position, and with which are connected 
 some traditions respecting the execution and burial of crimi- 
 nals. 
 
 Again, we find the name of St. Stephen connected with the 
 w^estern slope of this hill ; here is the traditional place of his 
 martyrdom ; here a church was erected to his memory, which 
 existed for nearly eight hundred years, and of which remains 
 have been unearthed during fiv^e years past. 
 
 It is not unnatural to suppose that St. Stephen was executed 
 at the place of the public execution of criminals. The theory 
 that our Lord was executed at the same place has the most valid 
 reasons in its support. 
 
 There is current among the Jews in Jerusalem a tradition 
 that this hill was the place of stoning the " Beth Has-Sekilah " 
 mentioned in the Mishna. Likewise another tradition that this 
 hill was the place, or connected with the place, of burial of 
 those who had been publicly executed. The origin of these 
 traditions I do not know, nor do I pretend to estimate the value 
 of them. That they exist at all is curious and — I should say — 
 a significant fact, whether they are worth little or much. 
 
 In like manner I do not know the origin of the name " Her- 
 od's Gate," or why it should not have been called " Solomon's 
 Gate," or '' David's Gate." But the fact that this name is found 
 in this particular locality is significant, when taken in connec- 
 tion W' ith the other circumstances that are grouped around it. 
 
 In recent times or since it has been safe to build outside Ihe 
 walls, say within the last twenty years, the principal residences 
 
140 
 
 have been erected on the west of the city, because the Jaffa 
 road leads off in that direction. At present, however, they are 
 being extended also in the northwest quarter; but in the time 
 of our Lord private houses or villas, surrounded by gardens and 
 hedges, were on the north of the town because on that side 
 there was not only the great thoroughfare leading to Damascus, 
 but also that leading to Caesarea, which was then the main sea- 
 port to Palestine. The numerous ancient cisterns, now mostly 
 in ruins, that are found in all the open region northwest of Je- 
 rusalem show that that quarter has been thickly inhabited. 
 
 If Joseph of Arimathea, who was a wealthy man, had a pri: 
 vate garden near the city, we may suppose with reason that it 
 was located in this direction. The statement in John xix. 41, 
 " in the place where He was crucified there was a garden ; and 
 in the garden a new tomb, wherein was never man yet laid," 
 seems to be verv explicit. If, on the other band, we press 
 these words literally, and on the other insist that our Lord was 
 crucified in the place of the public execution of criminals, we 
 make this place and the garden of Joseph of Arimathea to have 
 been identical. The question arises whether a man of position 
 and wealth would have a private garden in such a place ? But 
 there is no real objection to supposing that the hill-top, which 
 was easily accessible from the roman military road, might have 
 been devoted to the purpose of execution, and at the same time 
 the ground about it to the very foot of its slopes, to have been 
 occupied by private gardens might have surrounded the hill on 
 the southwestern and northwestern sides, and joined the Roman 
 road on the north. 
 
 The Roman road which we have described as leading to An- 
 tonia through or near " Herod's Gate " skirted this hill at the 
 foot of its eastern and northeastern slopes. Some miles farther 
 north this road divided, one branch going north to Nablous or 
 Shechem, and the other past Beth Horon to Antipatris and 
 Csesarea-on-the-Sea. Along this road Paul, strongly guarded 
 was taken a prisoner to Caesarea. With what emotions did the 
 prisoner, as he left the city and passed this Golgotha hill, look 
 up to the spot where the Master had died upon the cross ! 
 
 In the absence of a suitable diagram I will place before the 
 reader a very large capital letter Y, which shall be inverted, 
 and the extremities of its arms shall touch the wall of the city 
 at the points .1 and B. 
 
141 
 
 T 
 
 A will represent the present Damascus Gate, and B the one 
 now closed called "Herod's Gate." A C D will represent the 
 present Damascus or Nablous road, while B C D extended 
 pretty directly would touch the Castle of Antonia. E repre- 
 sents the Golgotha hill, in which the Grotto of Jeremiah is 
 shown. The bottom of the Y, or D, will be understood to be 
 towards the north. 
 
 This figure is not correct, inasmuch as the lines B C and A C 
 meet really at a considerable distance from the city wall; but 
 it was designed to give only a general idea of the place we have 
 been considering, and this purpose it serves sufficiently well. 
 
 There is in the western face of this hill a large tomb, before 
 the mouth of which the earth, during past ages, has accumu- 
 lated to a depth of six or eight feet. It is a peculiar tomb, and 
 has suffered somewhat in the lapse of time, but from what re- 
 mains of it one would say that it was Christian rather than 
 Jewish in its construction. This point I do not attempt to de- 
 cide absolutely, but even if it could be shown to be certainly of 
 Christian origin it would only show that the slopes of this hill 
 at a very early period, were thought to be desirable as a place 
 of burial, and hence we may suppose that, at a still earlier pe- 
 riod, they were occupied by Jewish tombs. 
 
 Very near this point, still in the western slope of this hill, 
 there have been opened during the present summer some very 
 remarkable Christian tombs, supposed to be those that were 
 built by the Empress Eudocia. 
 
 My object in what I have now written was merely to group, 
 in a way different from what had ever been done before, and 
 likewise in a more complete manner, certain facts and sugges- 
 tions which appear to me to be very reasonable in connection 
 with this most important question. Very few points in the 
 topography of ancient Jerusalem can be settled beyond dispute ; 
 but with reference to the site of Calvary I will close by repeat- 
 ing what I have already said, namely, that the strong probabili- 
 
142 
 
 ties are in favor of regarding the hill above Jeremiah's Grotto 
 as the place of the crucifixion of our Lord." 
 
 The discoveries make by Helena, mother of Constan- 
 tine, or said to have been made by her,^ satisfy the 
 Roman Cathohcs and Greek Catholics, the Copts and 
 Armenians, that where the church of the Holy Sepulchre 
 is (which is within the present city walls and near the 
 center of the city) is the true site. The various stations 
 occupied by the friends of the Saviour on the occasion of 
 his death, are all marked by a chapel or stone, differing 
 from the rest of the pavement of the floor, in color, shape 
 or elevation. Within the church is a stone called the 
 Unction Stone ; on this spot they claim He was laid to 
 be annointed for his burial. Pilgrims from Russia and 
 other lands, numbering now about 2,000, kneel and kiss 
 this stone, wiih a dozen others in the church, one mark- 
 ing the spot where He appeared to Mary Magdalene, 
 another where John and Jesus' mother were standing 
 when He said, "mother, behold thy son, and son behold 
 thy mother." Then there is shown the Holy Sepulchre; 
 millions have kissed the stones of it. It is divided into 
 two rooms, an ante-room or "chapel of the angel," and 
 the sepulchre proper. From the first, one passes through 
 a stone wall about four feet thick, through an arched 
 door not over three feet high and about two feet wide. 
 Inside, the sepulchre is about five by seven feet; one 
 half is devoted to a marble couch, on which it is claimed 
 the Lord lay. The end farthest from the door is held 
 b}' a Greek priest who will sell you a candle on Sunday 
 or on any other day, for one or two metterlichs (2 cents). 
 There is standing and kneeling room by the place oc- 
 cupied by the dead for about four. We went there 
 
 * First paragraph, chapter 17. 
 
143 
 
 several times and always found it crowded. The pil- 
 grims will approach it upon their knees, bending down 
 every few feet to kiss the floor. The Archbishop of the 
 Greek church pretends to have a candle miraculously 
 lighted from heaven in this ante-room once every year. 
 He enters, closes the door, and after awhile thrusts his 
 lighted candle through a hole in the side, from which 
 others light theirs, and then light up the sacred places 
 in the church which they hasten to visit, extinguishing 
 the candle before it is half consumed, carrying the 
 remnant home to be interred with their bones. 
 
 The holy sepulchre is built entirely of marble, and is 
 twenty-six feet long, about eighteen broad, and a little 
 over twenty feet high, and four sets of lamps of gold and 
 silver light it up day and night — one for each of the four 
 sects that perform service within the church. It is not 
 claimed that our Lord lay in this very tomb, but only 
 that this is built upon the identical spot where the 
 "Lord lay." 
 
 To the right of the main entrance and about fifteen 
 feet above the floor there is a large rock, round about 
 and above which is a chapel, say twenty feet square, (I 
 speak from memory). The stone rises about two feet 
 above the floor and is perhaps fifteen feet wide. It has 
 three holes in it and it is said that in them were placed 
 the crosses of Christ and of the two thieves. To the right 
 of the centre one there is a large cleft in the rock. This 
 they say was made when the rocks were rent. 
 
 Then one is shown the stock and pillar to which the 
 Savior was chained, and the one on which he sat, and 
 immediately underneath the cross, Adam's grave is 
 shown ; for they say it was needful that his blood should 
 fall on Adam's head. When this tomb was pointed out 
 
144 
 
 to Mark Twain, he said he "wept, because he was a 
 blood relation of Adam." 
 
 The foolish traditions connected with these sacred 
 spots, rob them of that solemnity that belongs to them, - 
 and with the irreconcilable course followed by the vari- 
 ous religious sects of Christendom here and now is the 
 greatest hindrance to Gospel work amongst these heathen. 
 
 The Christian religion in its w^orst forms is far superior 
 to the best types of Paganism ; but what we wish to do 
 is to make them see the same. And these same Mo- 
 hammedans have to stand guard with musket and 
 sword, not at the door of the above church, but within 
 it, by the tomb of Christ. I was crowded from my 
 place one Sabbath to make room for Turkish soldiers 
 during worship, almost within arms length of the Sepul- 
 chre, and a few years ago, many were killed. Owing to 
 suffocation an effort was made to escape from the build- 
 ing, and the soldiers mistook the rush for an attack upon 
 them, and began fighting, so the greatest melee imagin- 
 able ensued, and three or four hundred perished ; most 
 however, were run over and trampled to death. The 
 same thing has occurred since our visit, except that it 
 was a real fight originating in bigotry. 
 
 The guards are kept because the church is the joint 
 property of four denominations, Greeks, Catholics, Ar- 
 menians and Copts, each of which wants more than the 
 rest will allow. There is worship in the various chapels 
 of the church every dav. 
 
CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 IN AND ABOUT JERUSALEM. 
 
 March 12. — We went first to the Holy Sepulchre al- 
 ready spoken of above; see two tombs near by the Holy 
 Sepulchre, one of them called the tomb of Nicodemus, 
 the other that of Joseph of Arimathea, they are vaults 
 cut out of the rock on which the church is built. There 
 is a chapel in a cave in the church, in which the Catho- 
 lics say Helena found the three crosses on which Jesus 
 and the two thieves were crucified, and so knew this to 
 be the true Calvary ; the other locality has been descri- 
 bed in the preceding chapter. 
 
 On Mt. Zion we visited the Armenian cathedral ,where 
 St. James was beheaded, containing his tomb. The 
 priest showed us about the splendid pile very graciously, 
 and sprinkled rose water over us when we departed. 
 
 We passed out of the city through Zion's gate, to a 
 mosque containing David's tomb, and the so-called 
 coenaculum or upper room where Jesus took the last 
 supper with his disciples. The upper room, about forty 
 feet long and thirty wide, is on the first floor about eight 
 feet above ground. 
 
 Near by is shown the house of Caiaphas and a stone 
 pillar on which it is claimed the cock sat that crowed as 
 the Lord predicted when Peter so vehemently declared 
 his allegiance. Here the stone that was rolled away 
 from the sepulchre by an angel is shown in an Armenian 
 chapel. Near by are the Armenian and English ceme- 
 
146 
 
 teries. From this iDoiiit we have very fine views of the 
 pools of Gihoii on the southwest of Hiniiom and Hill 
 of Evil Council on the south. Zion is now plowed as a 
 field. Jer. 26:18. Mic. 3:12. 
 
 In the afternoon we went to Mt. Moriah. There were 
 several of us, and they required twenty francs admission 
 fees. Only within the last 37 years could Christians 
 enter the temple akea at all, and Jews are still ex- 
 cluded or exclude themselves, some say, to avoid stepping- 
 on the Holy of Holies, the location of which cannot be 
 identified. Once inside of the walls the Jews had a 
 limit, where Gentiles had to pause on pain of death ; now 
 they are forbidden to pass the threshold leading to the 
 grounds ; so every Friday they repair to the outside and 
 w^eep over their glory departed. We saw many of them 
 the day we visited the "Wailing Place," and a sadder 
 sight we have seldom if ever seen. We could not refrain 
 from tears, as they read the old Tes^"ameut books, and 
 mourned responsively. As these Jews have come here to 
 die, that they may be buried near the Holy City, oppress- 
 ed by the sins of their past lives, a sense of their national 
 calamities, the contempt of Christian and Mohammedan 
 superiors, and in many cases by extreme poverty, their 
 woe-begone appearance is well calculated to call out our 
 profound sympathies. 
 
 We copy the following account of the Wailing Place, 
 and the sad history connected with it, as well as the 
 habits of the Jews who visit it now, from By-paths of 
 Bible Knovicihje, No. Ill, by Rev. James King, A. M.: 
 
 THE WAILING PLACE. 
 
 "Proceedinof northward of Barclay's Gate, we come to an in- 
 teresting section of the wall known as The Jews' Wailing Place, 
 
147 
 
 where the Jews assemble every Friday afternoon. It is a small 
 quadrangular area, roughly paved with large square stones,, 
 situated between low houses and the Sanctuary wall. It is fur- 
 ther hemmed in by walls on the north and south sides, and the 
 area itself is only of small dimensions, being about a hundred 
 feet in length and fifteen in breadth. The Temple wall above 
 ground at this spot is about sixty feet high, and the lower 
 courses of visible masonry are for the most part made up of 
 magnificent stones, venerable from their high antiquity and 
 from the fact that they are veritable remains of the old Jewish 
 Temple. For many generations, at least once a week the Jews 
 have been permitted to approach the precincts of their Temple, 
 and it is a touching sight to see them manifest aff'ection to the 
 venerable wall, while they kiss the very stones and bathe them 
 with their tears. 
 
 'The Psalmist's words were verily fulfilled : 'Thy servants 
 take pleasure in her stones, and favor the dust thereof.' Kneel- 
 ing before the vestiges of their desolate and dishonored sanctu- 
 ary, the Jews still raise the wail of lamentation: 'God, the 
 heathen are come into Thine inheritance, Thy holy Temple 
 have they defiled, they have laid Jerusalem on heaps. . . . 
 We are become a reproach to our neighbors, a scorn and derision 
 to them that are round about us. How long, Lord? Wilt Thou 
 be angry forever? Shall Thy jealousy burn like fire?' 
 
 "Outside Barclay's Gate, and close to the south end of the 
 Wailing Place, Sir Charles Warren sank a shaft, and had to dig 
 through rubbish to the enormous depth of about eighty feet 
 below the colossul lintel, before he came to the foundation of 
 the Haram wall. Beneath the surface are twenty-two courses 
 of excellent masonry, each course being from three to four feet 
 in height. The lowest course is let into the rock, and each 
 course is set back about half an inch as it rises. The drafting of 
 the stones is very finely executed, and for delicate finish will 
 compare favorably with drafted masonry in any other part of 
 the Temple enclosure. 
 
 "During a recent visit to Jerusalem, after an examination of 
 this part of the wall, the author took up his position at the south 
 end of the paved area, and watched the appearance and move- 
 ments of the increasing crowd. Nearest to him stood a row of 
 women clad in robes of spotless white. Their eyes were bedim- 
 med with weeping, and tears streamed down their cheeks as 
 they sobbed aloud with irrepressible emotion. Next to the- 
 
148 
 
 women stood a group of Pharisees — Jews from Poland and Ger- 
 many. These are known by the name of Ashkenazim, because 
 they came from Ashkenaz — the name given to Germany by the 
 Rabbins, For the most part the Ashkenazim are small in stature 
 and fragile in form ; but their supercilious looks indicate the 
 same self-sufficient pride that characterised the Pharisees of old. 
 The old hoary-headed men generally wore velvet caps edged 
 with fur; long love-locks or ringlets were dangling on their thin 
 cheeks, and their outer robes presented a striking contrast of 
 gaudy colors. 
 
 "Beyond stood a group of Spanish Jews, of more polished 
 appearance and dignified bearing. They are called Sephardim, 
 because, according to the Rabbins, Spain is Sepharad. Besides 
 these, there are Jews from almost every quarter of the world, 
 who had wandered to Jerusalem that they might die in the 
 city of their fathers and be buried in the Valley of Jehosaphat 
 under the shadow of the Temple Hill. The worshipers grad- 
 iialh' increased in number until the crowd thronging the pave- 
 ment could not be fewer than two hundred. It was an affecting 
 scene to notice their earnestness ; some thrust their hands be- 
 tween the joints of the stones and pushed into the crevices as 
 far as possible little slips of paper on which were written, in 
 the Hebrew tongue, short petitions addressed to Jehovah. Some 
 even prayed with their mouths thrust into gaps, where the 
 weather-beaten stones were worn awav at the joints. The ex- 
 planation given of this strange proceeding is that it arises from 
 a desire on the part of the worshippers that their prayers may 
 rise from holy ground, and, ascending like the morning and 
 evening incense, may, through the sacred wall, rise to the God 
 -of Abraham. 
 
 "The congregation at the Wailing Place is one of the most 
 solemn gatherings left to the Jewish Church, and, as the writer 
 •gazed at the motley concourse, he experienced a feeling of sor- 
 row that the remnants of the chosen race should be lieartlessly 
 thrust outside the sad enclosure of their father's holy Temple 
 by men of alien race and an alien creed. Many of the elders, 
 seated on the ground with their backs against the wall on the 
 west side of the area and with their faces turned towards the 
 Eternal House, read out of their well-thnmbed Hebrew book 
 passages from the prophetic writings, such as 'Be not wroth very 
 sore. O Lord ; neither remember iniquity forever; behold, see, 
 ^e beseech Thee, we are all Thy people. Thy holy cities are a 
 
149 
 
 wilderness, Zion is a wilderness, Jerusalem a desolation. Our 
 holy and our beautiful house, where our fathers praised Thee, 
 is burned up with fire, and all our pleasant things are laid waste. 
 Wilt Thou refrain Thyself for these things, Lord? Wilt Thou 
 hold Thy peace, and afflict us very sore?' " 
 
 About four o'clock a Rabbi stood up, facing the Sanc- 
 tuary wall, and, resting bis book against the stone, read 
 aloud from the Jewish lamentation service a kind of 
 litany. After each petition the assembly responded in a 
 peculiar buzzing tone, rocking their bodies to and fro, 
 after the manner of their fathers. The following litany 
 of eight petitions is often rehearsed : 
 
 Tlie Rabbin reads aloud— 
 For the place tliat lies desolate: 
 For the place tliat is destroyed: 
 For the walls that are overthrown: 
 For our majesty that is departed: 
 For our great men who lie dead: 
 For the precious stones that are buried: 
 For the priests who have stumbled: 
 For our kings who have despised Him: 
 
 All the people respond- 
 We sit in solitude and mourn. 
 We sit in solitude and mourn. 
 W^e sit in solitude and mourn. 
 We sit in solitude and mourn. 
 We sit in solitude and mourn. 
 We sit in solitude and mourn. 
 We sit in solitude and mourn. 
 We sit in solitude and mourn. 
 
 Another litany, written after the manner of an anti- 
 phonal psalm, is often repeated. It consists of five pe- 
 titions offered up on behalf of Zion; and, in response 
 to each petition, the assembly offer up a petition for 
 Jerusalem : 
 
 The Rabbin prays thus— 
 We pray The« have mercy on Zion ; 
 Haste ! haste ! Redeemer of Zion ; 
 May beauty and ma.Jesty surround 
 
 Zion; 
 May the kingdom soon return to 
 
 Zion ; 
 May peace and Joy abide with 
 
 Zion; 
 
 The people answer- 
 Gather the children of Jerusalem. 
 Speak to the heart of Jerusalem. 
 Ah ! turn Thyself mercifully to 
 
 Jerusalem. 
 Comfort those who mourn over 
 
 Jerusalem. 
 And the Branch of Jesse spring up 
 
 at Jerusalem. 
 
150 
 
 The following is an account of a visit to the Wailing 
 Place by Dr. Frankl, a Jew, who visited the Holy City : 
 
 "The Jews have a firman from the Sultan, which, in return 
 for a small tax, ensures them the right of entrance to the Wail- 
 ing Place for all timp; to come. The road conducted us to sev- 
 eral streets, till, entering a narrow, crooked lane, we reached 
 the wall, which has been often described. ThereJ can be no 
 -doubt but the lower part of it is a real memorial of the days 
 of Solomon, which, in the language of Flavius Josephus, is 
 immovable for all time. Its cyclopic proportions produce 
 the conviction that it will last as long as the strong places 
 of the earth. Before we reached the wall we heard a sort 
 of howling melody — a passionate shrieking — a heart-rending 
 wailing, like a chorus, from which the words came sound- 
 ing forth, ' How long yet, God?' Several hundred of Jews, 
 in Turkish and Polish costumes, were assembled, and, with 
 their faces turned towards the wall, were bending and bow- 
 ing as they offered up the evening prayer. He who led their 
 devotions was a young man in a Polish talar who seemed to 
 be worn out with passion and disease. The words were those 
 of the well known Mincha prayer, but drawled, torn, shrieked 
 and mumbled in such a way that the piercing sound resembled 
 rather the raging frenzy of chained madmen, or the roaring of 
 a cataract, than the worship of rational beings. At a consider- 
 able distance from the men stood about a hundred women, all 
 in long white robes, the folds of which covered the head and 
 the whole figure, like white doves, wh.ch, weary of flight, had 
 jierched upon the ruins. "When it was their turn to offer up 
 the usual passages of the prayer they joined the men's tumul- 
 tuous chorus and raised their arms aloft, with their white robes 
 looking like wings with which they were about to soar aloft 
 into the open i«ky ; and then they struck their foreheads on the 
 square stones of the wall of the Temple. Meanwhile, if the 
 leader of their prayers grew weary, and leaned his head against 
 the wall in silent tears for a moment, there was a death-like 
 silence. I happened to be near him. and I could mark the sin- 
 cerity of his agitated soul. He gave a rapid glance at me, and, 
 without stopping short in his prayer, said to me, 'Mokam Ko- 
 desh,' L €., 'Holy place,' and pointed to my covered feet. My 
 guide had forgotten to inform me that I must take off my shoes. 
 
151 
 
 I now did so, and was drawn into the vortex of raging sorrow 
 and lamentation. 
 
 "The Jewish Sabbath begins on Friday evening at sunset ; 
 therefore, when the sun is sinking low in the western sk)^ the 
 worshippers at the Wailing place sometimes chant in Hebrew a 
 plaintive hymn known as the Wailing Song. The melody is 
 thought to date from the time of Ezra, and, consequently, is 
 accounted to be amongst the oldest pieces of music extant. The 
 following is a translation of the hymn : 
 
 He is great, He is good, 
 He'll build His Temple speedily. 
 In great haste, in great haste. 
 In our own day speedily. 
 Lord, build— Lord, build. 
 Build Thy Temple speedily. 
 
 He will save, He will save. 
 He'll save His Israel speedily. 
 At this time now, O Lord, 
 In our own day speedily. 
 Lord, save— Lord, save. 
 Save Thine Israel speedily. 
 
 Lord bring back. Lord bring back, 
 
 Bring back Thy people speedily ; 
 
 O restore to their land. 
 
 To their Salem speedily. 
 
 Bring back to Thee, bring back to Thee, 
 
 To their Savior, speedily. 
 
 "How long the Jews have assembled for lamentation at the 
 Wailing Place cannot be determined with certainty, although 
 there is historical evidence to prove that they have assembled 
 to mourn over their lost glory and desolate Temple since the 
 time of the Apostles. After the merciless destruction of Jeru- 
 salem by Titus, in 70 A. D., the priestly families fled to Tiberias, 
 on the shores of the sea of Galilee ; and the great men of the 
 Jewish nation found homes in Egypt, Cyprus, and other places, 
 while only the poor and the officiating priests remained in the 
 Holy City. Slowly Jerusalem rose from her ashes, and for sixty 
 years enjoyed such peace as comes after the maddening din of 
 warfare. 
 
 "During that period the Jews bewailed their downfall, and 
 nobody interfered with the poor inhabitants of the city. At 
 length, after sixty years' freedom from accursed warfare, a 
 mighty insurrection arose among the Jews against the oppres- 
 
153 
 
 sive yoke of Rome. The insurgents were headed by Bar Cocha- 
 ba, the Son of a Star, the last and greatest of the false Messiahs 
 After three years of warfare and butchery, Bar Cochaba, with 
 sword in hand, fell down slain on the walls of Beth-er, near 
 Bethlehem, and forthwith the domination of the Romans was 
 restored. The Emperor Hadrian, filled with wrath at the insur- 
 rection, again destroyed Jerusalem, and drove the Jews from 
 their hallowed city. He fixed a Roman colony on Zion, built a 
 heathen temple on Moriah, on the site of the sacred edifice of 
 the Jews, and dedicated it to Capitoline Jupiter. When the 
 colony had increased in size he bestowed upon the new city the 
 name of JEIia Capitolina, combining with his own family title 
 of JEVms the name of Jupiter of the Capitol, the guardian deity 
 of the colony. Christians and pagans were permitted to reside 
 there, but the Jews were forbidden to enter the city on pain ot 
 death ; and this stern decree remained in force in the days of 
 Tertullian, about a century afterwards. About the middle of 
 the fourth century, however, the Jews were permitted to dwell 
 in the neighborhood, and once a year — on the anniversary of 
 the capture of Jerusalem — they were allowed to enter the Tem- 
 ple enclosure that they might approach the lapis pertusm, or 
 perforated stone, and anoint it with oil. 'There,' says an ancient 
 writer, 'they make lamentations with groans, and rend their 
 garments, and so retire.' " 
 
 "Jerome, the eminent Latin Father, who founded a 
 convent at Bethlehem, and for thirty years led an ascetic 
 life in the Holy Land, when commenting, about 400 a.d., 
 on Zephaniah i. 14, 'The mighty man shall cry there 
 bitterly,' draws a vivid picture of the wretched crowds of 
 Jews who in his day assembled at the Wailing Place, by 
 the west wall of the Temple, to bemoan the loss of their 
 ancestral greatness, On the ninth of the month Ab, 
 might be seen the aged and decrepit of both sexes, with 
 tattered garments and dishevelled hair, who met to weep 
 over the downfall of Jerusalem, and purchased permis- 
 sion of the soldiery to prolong their lamentations (et mies 
 mercedem postulat ut illisflere plus liceat.) The perforated 
 
154 
 
 stone, called lapi.-< pertusus. is probably the Sakhra or 
 sacred rock of Moriah, originally the threshing-floor of 
 Arannah the Jebusite, and now covered with the elegant 
 sanctuary called Kabbet es-Sakhraor Dome of the Rock. 
 
 After the Moslem occupation of Jerusalem in the 
 seventh century, the lapis jjertasiiSy or sacred rock of 
 Moriah, was invested with a sanctity second only to the 
 Kaaba of Mecca. This sanctity was afterwards extended 
 to the whole of the top of Moriah, and, consequently, the 
 lieretic Jews were driven outside the Temple's enclosure. 
 In course of time, however, they approached the outer 
 w^alls, and there continued to celebrate their lamentation 
 service. Thus for above twelve centuries have the Jews 
 assembled outside the walls of their ancient Temple ; but 
 it would be difficult, with our present knowledge, to 
 prove that the present Wailing Place has been the iden- 
 tical spot of lamentation throughout the many genera- 
 tions that have lived and died since the Moslem occupa- 
 tion of Jerusalem under Khalif Omar in 637 A. D." 
 
 I neither saw nor heard anything to favor the suppos- 
 ition that the Jews are rapidly returning to Palestine. 
 I think that the beneficence of Sir Moses Montifiore, and 
 of the Rothschilds, the former having built tenement 
 houses in abundance, nearly or quite rent free ; the latter 
 building hospitals, induced many poor Jews from all 
 over the world to return to their historic and sacred city ; 
 and this movement in connection with certain prophecies 
 of scripture, gave rise to the belief. The following how- 
 ever throws light on the subject from a more recent 
 observer : 
 
 Charlotte, N. C, Jan. 1», 1891.— Dr. A. W. Miller, pastor of 
 the First Presbyterian church, of this city, has received a letter 
 
155 
 
 from Dr. Ben. Oliel in charge of a mission established in Jeru- 
 salem by Dr. Miller, for the conversion of Jews, which says that 
 eighty thousand Jews had reached there from Russia since 
 December 1st. The letter says Russia had even attempted to 
 annoy the Jews in Jerusalem. 
 
 There must be an error in the figures. There are no 
 
 transportation facilities adequate to such results. This 
 
 immigration is chiefly from Russia, no doubt, and is due 
 
 to persecution. 
 
CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 AROUND, ABOVE, BENEATH AND IN JERUSA- 
 LEM— ML MORIAH—GETHSEMANE. 
 
 The temple area is bounded by a wall fifteen hundred 
 feet long on the east, nine hundred and twenty-seven on 
 the south, sixteen hundred feet on the west, and one 
 thousand on the north, and covers thirty-five acres ; it is 
 above Ophel, a hill between the Tyropceon Valley and the 
 Valley of Jehoshaphat ; it is now nearly level, for Solo- 
 mon built walls and pillars on the top of which he placed 
 arches, supporting a platform, on the top of' which he 
 built other pillars and continued the circumscribing 
 walls to a very great height, still another opinion places 
 this masonry in the age of Justinian, when in 529 A.D., 
 he built a church on Temple Hill to the Virgin Mary. 
 
 The walls are, mostly, now, under ground, but the 
 same platform built by King Solomon, as some think, 
 remains, and the subterranean caves made by covering 
 over these pillars are called Solomon's stables, and the 
 pillars have holes for rings, in which no doubt the hal- 
 ters were tied. If they were not used by King Solomon 
 for stables, they were by the Knights Templar. A little 
 to the west of the center of the temple area is the Mosque 
 of Omar, on the site of Solomon's Temple. It is an 
 elevated platform of stone fifteen feet higher than the 
 surrounding area. Julian, the apostate, attempted to 
 
157 
 
 rebuild the Temple to prove that Christ was a false 
 prophet ; but while excavating, balls and flames of fire 
 issued from the ground, consuming the workmen. It 
 was>ttempted again, afterward, with similar results. 
 
 "After the conquest of the country by the Mohammedans, 
 one of the first acts of Calif Omar was to build a splendid 
 Mosque, known as the 'Dome of the Rock,' on the site of Jeho- 
 vah's Temple. This edifice, afterward beautified by Calif Abdel 
 Marwan, still crowns the summit of Moriah, and the place is 
 regarded by the Moslems as only second to Mecca in point of 
 interest, as Mohammed is said to have ascended to Heaven from 
 here. The Mosque is an octagonal building, five hundred and 
 thirty-six feet in circumference, surmounted with a graceful 
 dome supported by twelve exquisite antique marble and por- 
 phyry columns. Covering, as it does, simply this naked rock 
 so sacred in its associations to Jew, Christian and Mohamme- 
 dan, nothing could be more appropriate or grand. It is much 
 finer than St. Sophia at Constantinople, or St. Marks at Venice ; 
 has no rival for grace or sanctity, and its peculiar shape is the 
 only reason it has not been more extensively copied ; but as a 
 shrine for the 'Rock of Ages' it is perfectly beautiful, and when 
 the sunshine streams through its fifty-six gorgeous windows, its 
 golden mosaics seem to kindle up with a divine fire, rendering 
 the spot truly glorious. The building is encased on the outside 
 with encaustic tiling and colored marble ; within it is golden 
 arabesque mosaic, very rich, with passages from the Koran 
 everywhere inserted in the walls. And, what is remarkable, 
 no reference is made in the inscription to David, Solomon, or 
 Mohammed, but the name of 'Jesus, the Son of Mary,' is men- 
 tioned four^times. Is this prophetic of its becoming some day 
 alChristian church ? 
 " "The profound repose and death-like silence of this Temple 
 is in keeping with the sacredness of the place, for here alone, 
 in all the earth, was the only living and true God worshipped 
 throughout long ages ! When Greece was ignorant of God, and 
 Rome had 'changed the glory of the Incorruptible into an 
 image made like to corruptible man,' the descendants of Abra- 
 ham on this mount and in this place still preserved the writings 
 of Moses, and the worship of the one true and only God. It 
 was here Solomon erected his beautiful Temple ; here through 
 
158 
 
 long centuries the daily sacrifice was offered, and God mani- 
 fested himself to his people in the mysterious Shekinah as 
 nowhere else on the earth. Here first were sung those stirring 
 psalms of David, which ever since have been ascending like 
 incense from earth to Heaven. Toward this spot God's people 
 in every age and in every land have turned their faces when 
 they prayed ; and it was here the Great Teacher himself taught 
 his disciples, wrought his miracles, and near by, on Calvary, a 
 spur of the same mountain, as the 'Lamb of God,' was sacrificed 
 for the sins of the world. Surely, 'This is none other but the 
 house of God and the gate of Heaven,' " * 
 
 The rock beneath this gorgeous dome is the one on 
 which Josephus says Abraham built an altar for the 
 sacrifice of Isaac. Through the rock there is a hole 
 about twenty inches in diameter, used, no doubt, for 
 conveying the remains of sacrifices and the ashes to some 
 subterranean sewer or passage emptying into the valley of 
 Jehoshaphat, but the Mohammedans say that Mahomet 
 went from this place to Heaven, passing through the rock 
 (there is a cave under the rock, his praying place) mak- 
 ing this hole. He sprang up from the rock, and they pre- 
 tend to show^ one of his tracks on the rock. They say the 
 rock started to follow him, but Gabriel flew from Heaven 
 and caught the stone, checking it in mid air. He left 
 the print of his hand upon it, which is shown you, and 
 they pretend that the rock has been miraculously sus- 
 pended there ever since, having no visible support. 
 They also say that from the east wall of the Temple 
 area to Mt. Olivet a bridge will be built as narraw as a 
 razor's edge ; Christ ^viU. sit at one end and Mahomet at 
 the other ; every mortal will have to cross over it ; the 
 righteous alone will succeed; the wicked will fall off 
 and perish in the valley of Jehoshaphat, over which the 
 *Dr. De Hass m "Buried Cities Recovered." 
 
159 
 
 bridge is built. The Rabbis could equal the Arabs in 
 imaginary creations. Speaking of Og, King of Bashan, 
 they say: "The soles of his feet were 40 miles long, and 
 the waters of the Deluge only reached to his ankles. 
 He was ante-diluvian, but escaping became Eliezer of 
 Damascus, Abraham's servant. Abraham was only 74 
 times the size of ordinary men. Scolding 0^ one day, 
 Og trembled until a double tooth fell out. Abraham 
 made himself an ivory bedstead of it, on which he ever 
 afterwards slept." "Moses, who was ten ells high, once 
 attacked Og— by this time King of Bashan. He seized an 
 ax ten ells long, jumped ten ells high, and struck Og on 
 the — ankle. The blow finally killed him; for Rabbi 
 Jochanan says: 'I have been a grave-digger, and once 
 when I was chasing a roe it fled into a shin-bone. I ran 
 after it for three miles, but could neither overtake it nor 
 see any end to the bone, so I returned and was told that 
 it was the shin bone of Og, King of Bashan.' " — Thomp- 
 son. 
 
 Near the Mosque of Omar is the Mosque El Aksa, 
 built for a Christian church. In this, contrary to rea- 
 son, for it occurred in the Temple, they show where the 
 angel appeared to Zechariah, where Mary lodged, and a 
 cradle (a marble one) in which Christ lay during his 
 stay on the occasion of his circumcision. This is m a 
 cave under the temple area and is possibly true. The 
 print of his feet where he stood on the occasion of argu- 
 ing with the doctors and lawyers, is pointed out. 
 
 We wandered about the hallowed spot until nearly 
 sundown, went through the Via Doloroso by the churches 
 of the Flagellation, Ecce Homo and by Pilate's Gate. 
 We went to see Robinson's arch the same afternoon ; 
 this is the remainder of a ruined bridge once crossing 
 
160 
 
 from Mt. Moriah to Mt. Zion, over Tyropeon valley; it 
 was more than three hundred feet long, fifty-one wide, 
 and eighty high. On it Titus parleyed with the Jews 
 before striking the final blow, A. D. 70. 
 
 One day Mr. M. and I walked around the city about a 
 mile beyond the walls, taking in eight high hills. We 
 passed a cemetery from which a melancholy and monot- 
 onous bugle sounded for hours. In our conjectures 
 about the occasion of such a, to us, unique procedure, 
 we finally concluded some soldier was dead and these 
 w^ere expressions of military grief, (as such they would 
 have been fitting.) AVe stood and watched the manoeu- 
 vres of the camp some hundreds of yards away in Gihon 
 yalley ; we decided this time they were about to inter 
 some noted charger, as certainly they were handling a 
 dead horse, whereupon we thought the solo still more 
 appropriate ; but the horse was disposed of and our mu- 
 sician still made the welkin ring. Subsequent inquiry 
 revealed to us that he Avas a mile from the city, in obe- 
 dience to a delicate sense of the fitness of things, to 
 practice. I thought at once of Dr. Talmage's remark 
 that an embryo cornetist might get to heaven, but it 
 would be hard for his neighbors to do so. Did the city 
 fathers of Jerusalem see no chance unless they ostracised 
 for the time their band recruits ? 
 
 We took one day to do the hills around Jerusalem and 
 one the valleys. We start down Gihon, called Hinnom, 
 below the lower pool of Gihon, and pass four most 
 pitiable looking lepers, some of whom have lost fingers, 
 some toes, some the voice, except a dry husky whisper. 
 A good house has been provided for them, and support, 
 about one mile south-west of the city, but they prefer to 
 
161 
 
 sit by the way-side and beg. We go down Hinnom to 
 En Rogel, in Jehoshaphat valley; here is a pool of most 
 filthy looking water, bnt nsed; here David's friends, 
 Jonathan and Ahimaaz, came for news when he fled 
 from Absalom — 2 Sam., 17:17. Here Adonijah made a 
 feast with a view of gathering adherents and seizing the 
 Kingdom when David was about to die. Joab, the great 
 captain, was in his party to his own ruin. We then go 
 up through the King's gardens, which are luxurious and 
 fruitful enough, watered, as they are, from the pool of 
 Siloam, to deserve the name. We pause at Siloe's brook 
 to see the daughters of Siloam come over for water and 
 do their washing. It is no longer a "shady rill," nor an 
 inspirer of lofty song, except to the blind indeed. We 
 ascend to Gethsemane, enclosed by a wall of stone about 
 seven or eight feet liigh ; it covers about one- third of an 
 acre, contains eight large olive trees, possibly the same 
 under which the disciples slept when He was withdrawn 
 from them, about a stone's cast, to pray. It is in the 
 possession of the Franciscan order of the Latin church, 
 and kept by a kind and courteous gardener, who gave 
 us, unsolicited, small bouquets, for which he refused 
 backsheesh ! He also refused to increase the size of them 
 for pay. We tried to call up the scenes of that doleful 
 night, when our best friend "trod the wine-press alone," 
 "and of the people there was none with Him." Hard 
 by is a cave called the "Grotto of the Agony," into which 
 the Savior retired to pray. The Latins have a church 
 there now and in it a beautiful statuette representing the 
 agony and the angel strengthening Him. "And he was 
 withdrawn from them about a stone's cast, and kneeled 
 down, and prayed, saying, Father, if thou be willing, 
 remove this cup from me: nevertheless, not my will, 
 
162 
 
 but thine, be done. And there appeared an angel unto 
 him from heaven, strengthening him. And being in an 
 agony he prayed more earnestly: and his sweat was as it 
 w^ere great drops of blood falling down to the ground." 
 Luke 22: 41-44. My heart swelled with gratitude that 
 already such an inheritance had fallen to me by His 
 sufferings and death, and that these good things are but 
 the earnest of what awaits us beyond. 
 
 Before leaving Jerusalem we went into the subterra- 
 nean quarries, where King Solomon got stone for build- 
 ing the city, the Temple and the Walls of Jerusalem. 
 One can wander here for hours over new ground all the 
 time, see how the stone was cut from the living rock 
 and severed by wooden wedges. Here are tons on tons 
 of chips, where the stones were trimmed before going into 
 the wall. Thompson says: 
 
 ''We found water trickling down in several places, and in one 
 there was a small natural pool full to the brim. This trickling 
 water has covered many parts with crystalline incrustations, 
 pure and white ; in others stalactites hang from the roof, and 
 stalagmites have grown up from the floor. The entire rock is 
 remarkably white, and though not very hard, will take a polish 
 quite sufficient for architectural beauty. 
 
 'The general directions of these excavations is south-east, 
 and about parallel with the valley which descends from the 
 Damascus Gate. I suspect that they extend down to the Tem- 
 ple area, and also that it was in these cayerns that many of the 
 Jews retired when Titus took the Temple, as we read in Jose- 
 phus. The whole city might be stowed away in them ; and it 
 is my opinion that a great part of the very white stone of the 
 temple must have been taken from these subterranean quar- 
 ries." 
 
 We also went to see the models of the Temples of Solo- 
 mon and Herod and the Mosque of Omar, by Mr. Shick, 
 who has been present at all modern excavations about 
 
163 
 
 the city, who has read all the books that have been writ- 
 ten on the subject, and who probably knows more about 
 Jerusalem — ancient and modern — than any other living 
 man on earth. This model was thirty years in building 
 and is a perfect piece of workmanship. He offers to sell 
 the whole for $3,000, which is cheap. We bought 
 photos of this model, and in London I had them put on 
 glass for use in a stereopticon. 
 
 We went to Mt. Olivet and ascended the tower there, 
 from which one has a splendid view. To the east, four 
 thousand feet below and eighteen miles away we can 
 clearly see the Dead Sea and the Jordan valley for fifty 
 or sixty miles; beyond, the mountains of Moab. On 
 the west Jerusalem lies on the slopes of the hills rising 
 from the valley of Jehoshaphat, while to the south fruit- 
 ful fields stretch out in pleasing panorama towards Beth- 
 lehem. North we see many small towns, which no doubt 
 were large cities in David's day. We are near the place, 
 possibly on the very spot, on which the disciples and 
 friends of our Lord gathered that memorable day to see 
 their Lord ascend. The Russians have a Greek Catholic 
 church here — a very fine one — called the Church of the 
 Ascension. 
 
 The country contains many convents of the Roman 
 and Greek Catholic churches, built at enormous cost, 
 but they are dead, not embalmed, not buried, that were 
 better, they are putrid cadavers, a stench in Mohamme- 
 dan nostrils. 
 
 There is a good Protestant work going on in the city 
 and community. I have formed the acquaintance of 
 several native Christians, some Christian Hebrews, all 
 Protestant, and their type of piety is very satisfactory, so- 
 far as one can judge on short acquaintance. 
 
W'& 
 
165 
 
 The Church of England has a resident bishop and 
 several priests here, an elegant church, a good school, a 
 good Bible depository and two olive wood factories in 
 which they work Cliristian Jews. I worshipped with 
 them on two Sabbaths and about twenty-five young 
 Jews from twelve to 17 yearsjold made the music, and 
 several grown Jews were in the congregation. I con- 
 versed with some of them and rejoiced to see a devotion 
 to Christianity equal to the opposition they had once 
 shown. 
 
 One of the priests whom I met handed me the follow- 
 ing, which I copy to show the character of the only 
 Protestant missionary work going on in the Holy City : 
 
 The London Society for Promoting Christianity 
 Amongst the Jews. 
 
 JERUSALEM MISSION. 
 
 The following are the various means used for bringing the 
 Gospel to bear upon the Jews in this city: 
 
 1. Christ Church. 
 
 In the Hebrew Church on Mount Zion there is a daily He- 
 brew Service at 7 o'clock in the morning. Also a daily Eng- 
 lish Service at 9 o'clock. 
 
 Sunday services at 10 a. m. and 7:30 p. m. in English. 
 
 G-erman Service at 3:30 p. m. 
 
 2. Schools. 
 The Boys' School, where 42 Jewish boys are boarded and 
 clothed, and a large number partly fed. 
 
 3. The Jewesses' Institution. 
 In this Institution 32 Jewish girls are boarded and clothed, 
 and many day scholars are taught and partly fed. In both 
 Schools, Christianity is distinctly taught. 
 
 4. The Enquirers* Home. 
 Here Jewish Inquirers are provided with shelter while their 
 sincerity is tested, as well as their Industry. 
 
166 
 
 5. The House op Industry. 
 
 This is a home for young Converts and tested Enquirers 
 •where they are taught Trades and provided with work. 
 
 6. The Hospital. 
 
 Here the sick Jews are treated for various complaints; 
 twenty-six beds being provided for them. Also laige numbers 
 of Out-Patients are attended to both at the Hospital and in 
 their Homes. 
 
 7. The Book-STORK. 
 
 Bibles in various languages, and other useful books are sold 
 .and given away. 
 
 8. The Bookbinding and Printing Shop. 
 9. The Carpenter's Shop. 
 10. The Shoemaker's Shop. 
 
 By such methods and works carried on by voluntary 
 subscriptions the Society seeks to spread the knowledge 
 of the Gospel among that people from whom the Church 
 received the truth at the first. 
 
 Travelers interested in Christian work are invited to 
 inspect the various parts of the work carried on in 
 Jerusalem. 
 
 A conference of Jews and Christians recently held in 
 Chicago, sent a memorial to President Harrison, March 
 5, 1891, asking his diplomatic aid in an efibrt to secure 
 for Jews, especially Russian Jews, peaceful possession 
 ■of homes in Palestine. 
 
CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 TRAVELING IN PALESTINE. 
 
 Many readers would like to know how the tour 
 of Palestine is made. From Joppa to Jerusalem, Beth- 
 lehem and Hebron one can go on wheels ; the rest of 
 the country must be visited on horseback, except from 
 Haifa to Tiberias and I believe there is a road from Jop- 
 pa to Nablous and there is a good road from Beirut to 
 Damascus, 72 miles. 
 
 Tourists either camp in tents or lodge in hospices of 
 the Latin and Greek churches, finding hotels only in the 
 larger towns. We chose the second, as being both more 
 economical and affording a better opportunity to study 
 the customs and character of the people now living here. 
 
 We made arrangements with Mr. Floyd, a contractor, 
 to take us from Jerusalem to Beirut. The cost of the 
 trip varies according to the size of the party and the 
 amount of baggage, from five to fifteen dollars per day, 
 and takes, by Damascus eighteen to twenty days, and 
 by Tyre and Sidon twelve days. 
 
 Both routes are the same as far north as Nazareth 
 Cana and Tiberias, where those going by Damascus go 
 East of the Jordan, while those going up the coast go 
 westward to Mt. Carmel, and Haifa. The road passes 
 Bethel, Shiloh, Plains of Ephraim, Mts. Gerizim and 
 Ebal, Sychar, Jacob's Well, Samaria, Jenin, (" En Gan- 
 nim " Fountain of Gardens) — the Kishon rises in 
 
168 
 
 this city ; the plain of Esdraelon, Gideon's Fountain, 
 Gilboa, Shunem, Nain, Endor, Mt. Tabor, Sea of Gali- 
 lee, Cana, Nazareth, Mt. Carmel, Acre or Akka, Ain or 
 Ez-Zib, where Hyrcanus had his ears cut off and Her- 
 od's brother knocked out his brains against a wall to 
 escape indignity. Tyre, Sidon, Sarepta and many other 
 cities of doubtful identity. I will relate some incidents 
 of the journey farther on. 
 
 I will give one day from our itinerary. A dragoman, 
 well acquainted with the country, takes charge of the 
 party. He informs us the previous evening at what 
 hour we are to start, and promptly calls us at the ap- 
 pointed time. Our baggage ready, while we take break- 
 fast, it is put on the mules. Breakfast is bread, butter, 
 eggs, cold meats and coffee. This done, with pencil, 
 paper and notebooks and such protections as we need 
 against bad weather, we go out for the day's ride. If 
 the donkey boys have not done strapping on the bag- 
 gage, it is interesting to watch them fasten half a dozen 
 valises, trunks and bundles of different sizes and shapes 
 so well balanced on a horse, mule or donkey that it will 
 not fall off all day, up and down the mountains, nor gall 
 the beast. I have seen a horse fall fiat with his load on 
 the smooth stones of Tyre and not affect the load on his 
 back, but rise and go right on as if nothing had hap- 
 pened. They quarrel a great deal in everything they do 
 — these Arabs, they never seem to understand each oth- 
 er, so that often in tying a rope or fixing a rein, they 
 will talk as if about to fight the whole time — though I 
 believe they seldom do fight. Everything ready we 
 mount our horses for the morning ride. 
 
 The first day out from Jerusalem is over a very rough 
 road, being a portion of the old Roman road from Cassa- 
 
160 
 
 rea, it has greatly deteriorated. We have just turned 
 our backs upon the once more growing city, when two 
 gentlemen in black waterproofs ride into our path ; a 
 glance suffices to show they have traveled considerably, 
 and only a minute is required to learn they are Drs. 
 Brancroft, Principal of Phillips Academy, Andover, and 
 Buckley, editor of The Christian Advocate (New York.) 
 The former on his second or third trip abroad, the latter 
 on his fourth ; the conversation turns from one pleasant 
 topic to another. I learned from Dr. Buckley the sad 
 news of Bishop McTyeire's death. 
 
 We go North-west by the tombs of the Kings and the 
 hill Scopus; about one and a half miles out the drago- 
 man says, turn your horses now and look at Jerusalem 
 for the last time. We turn and look ; within the walls 
 the city seems to be young ; without she appears to be 
 but the work of yesterday. 
 
 As we take this last look we remember the Salem 
 (peace) of Melchizedek, the Jebus, strong hold of the 
 Jebusites, and how David came and took it for Israel 
 and made it the capital city of his realm, and how diso- 
 bedient Israel had to surrender it to Shishak of Egypt, 
 and how this was but the beginning of a long list of sor- 
 rows whose anticipations well nigh broke the heart of 
 Jeremiah, and whose realizations were but the fulfill- 
 ment of the words of Moses, Deut. 28th, and of many of 
 his successors, especially of the man like unto him 
 whom the Lord God should raise up unto Israel. We 
 think of Titus' hosts encamped just here to the left on 
 Scopus, of that final shock when all was lost, even to 
 the holy temple itself, of the brave and the wise Jose- 
 phus, cool in the hour when 
 
 "Death rode upon the sulphury siroc, 
 Red battle stamped his foot and nations felt the shock." 
 11 
 
170 
 
 And not only nations, but the world. Poor, fanatical, 
 ritualistic, starving Jews, your house now desolate, is 
 not even left you ; vainly hoping to the very end for a 
 Saviour, the Messias, had he returned indeed, it would 
 have been to be again rejected, and hither wandered the 
 poor, deluded crusader, urged by fanaticism, ambition 
 and revenge at a cost of millions of lives and billions of 
 gold to take the holy Sepulcher from Moslem hande 
 with barbarous butchery ; to be surrendered again to 
 Islam under Saladin. 
 
 Just over the city walls rises the magnificent dome of 
 the mosque of Omar on the site of Solomon's Temple, to 
 the left, the Mosque El Aksa, be3'ond, the tomb of David 
 on Mt. Zion, to the right the Tower of David, the 
 splendid double-domed church of the Holy Sepulchre, 
 and to the right of the walled part the Russian Hospice 
 worth hundreds of thousands of dollars. To the left 
 and visible enough is Mt. Scopus and Mt. Olivet, at 
 whose base is Gethsemane, beyond is Siloam, beneath 
 w^hich flows " Siloe's shady rill " " fast by the oracle of 
 God." Just over the Eastern wall is the " hill of Evil 
 counsel." The minarets, domes, towers and cathedrals 
 all are photographed indelibly on memory's page; 
 with a deep sigh we bid the City of David farewell. 
 What a history of voluptuous splendor, of religious sol- 
 emnities, of ignominious captivities, of more than mel- 
 ancholy tragedies, she has known ! What future awaits 
 her, who can tell ! 
 
 We turn our horses' heads towards the North, grate- 
 ful for that mercy that has brought us here and so 
 greatly increased life's richness. We soon reach Shafiit, 
 called Nob, where David fled and fed in trouble, I. Sam. 
 21. Tradition says this is the birth place of the prophet 
 
^ffrfHimiillll' 
 
 ililillliiiiu,, 
 
172 
 
 Joel. Nothing now remains except ruins, with a few 
 poor houses, and it stands about one hundred yards 
 from the road. We next and soon come to Ramah, the 
 home of that Levite w^ho was so unfortunate at Gibeah 
 of Saul, Judges 19. Saul's seven sons were hanged near 
 here at Gibeah; Jer. 31:15, also immortalizes this place, 
 though now not one Jew lives here, and only a few 
 wretched Arabs. Over very stony (old ruined Roman) 
 roads about 11 o'clock we pass on our right Beeroth, 
 where it is claimed Joseph and Mary turned back to 
 look for Jesus, when lost at 12 years of age. The day 
 has become exceedingly cold and windy. We have 
 reached Bethel by 12 M., and ride down into an old res- 
 ervoir and eat on the ground, pic-nic fashion, behind 
 the wall of the reservoir. While the dragoman and 
 cook arrange for lunch we read up the history of Bethel 
 and find that this is where Abraham built an altar to 
 God, that here Jacob took some of these stones, possibly 
 the one I sit on was one of them, to make a pillow to 
 rest on as he fled from Beersheba to Padanaram, and 
 had that wonderful dream, seeming to see the angels 
 of God ascending and descending on a ladder, and 
 though the ancients called it Luz at the first, it has been 
 called Bethel ever since. Here he built an altar and an- 
 nointed it with oil and called it " El-Bethel, because 
 there God appeared unto him, when he fled from the face 
 of his brother." Here he vowed. Here Rebekah's nurse 
 died and was buried. Near here the two she-bears slew 
 forty and two children for mocking Ehsha, the prophet of 
 God. Here Jeroboam set up a golden calf and sought 
 to turn away the people from God ; and on one occa- 
 sion, stretching out his hand to smite God's prophet, it 
 was withered, and restored again in answer to the 
 
173 
 
 prophet's prayer. Just across a ravine and in full view 
 is Ai, which has a history following Jericho's overthrow. 
 Josh. 7 tells us that the host of Joshua were routed be- 
 cause of Achan's covetousness at Jericho in stealing a 
 wedge of gold, two hundred sheckels of silver and a 
 goodly Babylonish garment, and could not prevail until 
 after Achan's execution. 
 
 Lunch over, we mount our steeds and make towards 
 Jifna, where we are to lodge for the night. 
 
 We pass no places, these two hours now recognized as 
 connected with sacred history, though no doubt could 
 these stones speak they would rehearse sad stories of 
 blood and tears. We observe on the way steep hills 
 terraced to the top, and estimating the time and labor 
 required to do the work of terracing according to Am- 
 erican standards of valuation much of this land costs 
 two thousand dollars per acre, and fifty to one hundred 
 dollars per acre annually to keep it in repairs. But 
 humanity is very cheap, and time is not money, as 
 with us. 
 
 There is a great variety of climate, not much in soil. 
 The Jordan valley and along the coast of the Mediter- 
 ranean is very warm now ; the hills are temperate and 
 pleasant \' hile the mountain tops are colder, and Leban- 
 on and Hermon covered with snow. Nearly all the soil 
 is red, some spots of grey land are seen, and a few belts 
 of black ground in Galilee, but all is productive to an 
 amazing degree. Some of the hills and mountains seem 
 at a little distance to be destitute of any soil, and to be 
 only made of rocks, yet here the herds of sheep and 
 goats find pasturage. There is no more beautiful land 
 perhaps anywhere than the plains of Jezreel and all the 
 panoram i seen on all the sides of Mt. Tabor, from the 
 
174 
 
 tojD, and all the country li'Dm Mt. Tabor to the sea of 
 Galilee is excellent for farming and not very hilly. 
 
 But turning from the agricultural to the political con- 
 dition of this country I have observed that it is, if not 
 fully ripe, nearly so for a change, if I may not say 
 revolution. One typical American to every one hundred 
 inhabitants here would bring about a revolution in, I 
 think I may say, five years at the farthest, but it is com- 
 ing any way, only Moslemism stays it, but the claims of 
 humanity are asserting themselves steadily. The Eng- 
 lish, French, Germans and Russians are all fully ap- 
 prised of the coming smash, and each fully awake to a 
 sense of the possible gain it may result in to each. 
 Each watches all the rest with Arguslike vigilance: each 
 is putting as many men in position in every salient point 
 as possible. 
 
 At Beirut there is a post office for the English, one for 
 the Austrians, one for the French, etc., and enough men 
 of these three nations, i. e., of either of them, to do the 
 most important civil service of Syria, which they expect 
 to do some of these days. 
 
CHAPTER XX. 
 
 NORTH OF JERUSALEM. 
 
 The second day out from Jerusalem was very raiiiy^ 
 and we needed the Arab ahais (a kind of overcoat nsed 
 by Bedawins) we had bought in Jerusalem, w^hich were 
 good waterproofs. 
 
 AVe passed through Hora-]\Ieiyeh or Eobbers' Glen, 
 where we met a caravan of about forty camels, with as 
 many drivers ; their cargo was wheat, Avhich was set on the 
 ground while the camels were grazing. There is an ex- 
 cellent spring in this glen at which we got a good draught. 
 Our road wound up the ravine, while on either hand the 
 hillsides were terraced to the top, with no less than one 
 hundred stone walls, some of them ten and twelve feet 
 high. On these terraces wheat or lentils are sown, or 
 fig or olive trees planted. 
 
 We reached the site of ancient Shiloh about noon, 
 where we lunched in an old ruined church. We saw^ the 
 desolation spoken of by Jeremiah 7: 12-14 and 26: 6, and 
 remembered that this w^as once Joshua's capitol, where 
 he reared up the tabernacle. — Joshua 18. That here 
 Eli lived and died, that here Hannah came and prayed 
 and was heard and obtained the desire of her heart, and 
 made yearly visits to bring her boy a little coat. 
 
 And as I read this history, and considered the happy 
 results I thought how beautiful to give our children to 
 God in infancy and rear them for his service. 
 
176 
 
 We ride during the afternoon through the fertile 
 plains of Ephraim and Mukhna, reaching Jacob's well 
 just before night. It too is walled in and a gate kept 
 for backsheesh, but the gate-keeper was absent, and we 
 climbed up some other w^ay, i. e., over the wall. A church 
 was once built over the well, but it has gone to destruc- 
 tion, leaving only broken columns projecting here and 
 there from the debris. A large stone, like a mill-stone, 
 covers the shaft ; this stone has a hole drilled throusfh 
 it about two feet in diameter. It was very deep but dry. 
 We longed for a draught from its depths. Since our 
 visit the Russian government have bought it from the 
 Turks and will give it all needed improvements. We sat 
 on that well's mouth and looked over the fields two 
 months later in the year than when our Lord said : "Say 
 not ye. There are yet four months, and then cometh 
 harvest ?" Just out there a f e^/ hundred paces is a tomb 
 called Joseph's tomb in the parcel of ground that Jacob 
 gave to his son Joseph, where they buried, him, and the 
 bones of Joseph, which the children of Israel brought 
 up out of Egypt, burying them in Shechem, in a parcel of 
 ground which Jacob bought of the sons of Hamor the 
 father of Shechem for a hundred pieces of silver ; and it 
 became the inheritance of the children of Joseph. — 
 Joshua 24: 32. We look up at Mt. Ebal and Gerizim, 
 called mountains of Cursino- and Blessino-. — Josh. 8: 33. 
 
 I copy from my Diary the following, written the even- 
 ing we were there : "Our Lord must have been here in 
 winter, but at any season the scene is inspiring. Already 
 the place was old and full of history, beneath him was 
 Jacob's well before him the parcel of ground he had 
 bought and lost in une(|ual conquest and retaken with 
 his "sword and bow," in the midst of it was Joseph's 
 
177 
 
 tomb, above him the Mountains of Blessing and Cursing, 
 around him a people dead to their privileges and duties, 
 and void of any knowledge of the truth. 
 
 No place on earth was better suited to reflection on the 
 remote and romantic past, the serious and pregnant pre- 
 sent, the sad foreboding future. Oh, Son of God, I am 
 riding by where thou walkedst and w^ast weary with the 
 journey, resting thy tired head, it may be, that night on 
 some of these stones, because the Jews and Samaritans 
 have no dealings with one another. I go up to Shechem, 
 whither, perhaps, thou couldst not, and find a good 
 home. I have enough of all but thy spirit. Thou car- 
 riedst all our woes. Thou art worthy to be crowned 
 Lord of all. Be my portion forever, and lift me, a con- 
 stant beneficiary of thy grace, to a higher plane of living. 
 
 We ride between Ebal and Gerizim to Sychar of old, 
 called now Nablous. It is a city of 13,000 inhabitants 
 and contains the remnant of the old stock of Samaritans 
 (about one hundred and fifty) whose chief or high priest, 
 Jacob Shalaby, we saw at Jaffa. They still worship in 
 Mt. Gerizim as directed. — Ex. 12. I saw the old Pen- 
 tateuch manuscript iu their possession, which they claim 
 to be twenty-six hundred years old. It is parchment and 
 rolls on two cylinders from one of which it unrolls as it 
 rolls upon the other, it is about twenty-four inches wide, 
 and very dingy as one would expect. The Turks have a 
 garrison here. There are signs of great poverty. The 
 curse of leprosy abides and abounds. There is a steam 
 wheat mill and a soap factory or two, though none of the 
 inhabitants appear to have ever used any of the soap. 
 We spent the night wdth Mr. Fulcher, a missionary, who 
 was so busy trying to right some altercation (I think) 
 that had arisen that w^e had little conversation with him. 
 
178 
 
 He remarked, iu answer to some questions, he was only 
 sowing seed now. 
 
 The next morning we rode down a stream on a splen- 
 did road that went to Jaffa. On the banks of this creek 
 that emptied its water into the Mediterranean, grow the 
 richest vegetation, the finest olive trees, and most luxu- 
 riant gardens. We also passed about a dozen flouring 
 mills run by water power. No dams were built across 
 the stream but a long race carried the water until a fall 
 of twenty feet could be secured, then in an aqueduct 
 made of stone the water is carried to the centrifugal 
 wheel which is the only power we saw used in Palestine. 
 We saw one turned by concussion in Syra. I dis- 
 mounted and entered one of these; the stones were 
 about three feet in diameter, the upper one was about 
 six inches thick, without a hoop, while the flour, un- 
 bolted, ran out in a depressed place on the floor. The 
 miller was standing barefooted in the grist ; two or three 
 donkeys and as many dogs were standing around near 
 enough to begin a meal the moment the guard (the 
 miller) should leave his charge. 
 
 We leave the good road and take a bridle path to 
 Samaria, the old capitol of Samaria, two hours dist- 
 ant. A hundred columns, monoliths, some in situ, 
 marking the course of the vast colonnade three fourths 
 of a mile long, some scattered over the fields tell of 
 a magnificence and splendor worthy of the Roman 
 that whilom ruled this ruined realm. 
 
 " Sixteen columns on the topmost terrace are still thought to 
 mark the site of Baals temple which Jehu demolished— 2 Kings, 
 10.''~Land and Book. But all that is left of the ancient palatial 
 and colonnade splendor are some rowg of stone pillars, twenty 
 feet in height, three feet in diameter, and still retaining some 
 of the polished surface which glistened in beauty two thousand 
 
179 
 
 years ago. The situation of Samaria is remarkable. It is on a 
 lofty hill, with a ring of still loftier hills surrounding it. Aval- 
 ley ring and a mountain ring are its double engirdling of beauty 
 and strength. The sides of the central hill, upon which sat the 
 capitol of Israel, slope down to the valley, and bear remains of 
 buildings and terraces. On the northern side, and near the 
 base of the hill, are several rows of massive stone pillars. The 
 situation alone gives us a fair idea of what it used to be in at- 
 tractiveness and natural strength. After looking at it I did not 
 marvel that it took the Assyrians three years to secure its cap- 
 ture. 
 
 It was in this city that w^as begun the idolatry that proved 
 the ruin of Israel. Here Elijah came and preached to Ahab 
 and Jezebel. Naaman, with his chariots and gold and his lep- 
 rosy, visited this city, seeking relief. Elisha lived in the neigh- 
 borhood, and afterward in the city itself, as the scripture tells 
 us that he was there during a certain siege. It was here tha* 
 occurred several scenes that have always peculiarly and power- 
 fully impressed me. It was on one of these mountains before 
 us that Elisha's servant saw the horseman and chariots of the 
 heavenly army. On the walls here walked "the king in hitherto 
 concealed suffering of mind, until the wind blew aside his cloak 
 and the tortured body was revealed. Across that valley sped 
 the lepers in the moonlight to the vacant camp of the besiegers. 
 Over those hills in the distance swept the strange sound that 
 affrightened a whole army and put them to flight ; and under- 
 neath the walls of this place Elisha led an army blinded by the 
 power of God, and then transformed them all into the lasting 
 friends of Israel by kind treatment — good piece of gospel let 
 down into Old Testnment times. Here Philip preached the 
 gospel with great success, and here Piter withstood Simon the 
 Sorcerer." — Carradine. 
 
 We leave this desolate city and pass through charm- 
 ing landscapes ; far away on every hand, nestled under 
 the hills, are towns that look pretty in the distance, a 
 circumstance that always helps a Mohammedan town. 
 We passed through one — Jeb-a — where the children 
 came out and cried after us '' goon," "leave herel" "you 
 are infidels !" " you will all go to hell !" " God will not 
 
180 
 
 give you long life !" " you are Nazarenes," &c. We 
 met another large caravan of Damascus merchants go- 
 ing down to Joppa or Egypt. We pass Sitniir on a high 
 hill and the last fortress to yield to Ibrahim Pasha when 
 he overran this country, Dothan, where Joseph's breth- 
 ren were feeding their flocks when he visited them and 
 met such unkind return for his beneficence, and where 
 Benhadad sought Elisha, and his men were stricken 
 with blindness — 2 Kings, 6. We stop for the night at 
 Jenin, on the boundary of the plain of Esdraelon. It is 
 a well watered town containing about four thousand in- 
 habitants. There is no hotel there and we lodged with 
 an Arab. They gave us the principal room in the 
 house. The floor was covered with matting for a carpet. 
 Some real fine paintings were on the wall ; and they gave 
 us an excellent dinner of soup, pigeons, sheep and veg- 
 etables, including plent}^ of lettuce, which has no sub- 
 stitute nor rival in the world, as they grow it and 
 prepare it. 
 
 While we were eating, however, our dragoman and 
 the Arabs in the yard had some bitter words. I think 
 it was about our stopping in the town, as they used the 
 word Christian and Nazarene a good deal. He would 
 not tell us the cause, which confirmed my conviction 
 that I had conjectured aright. He left them and came 
 in and closed the door, not, however, until they had 
 thrown a stone or two. I made bodily j^rotection a mat- 
 ter of special prayer that evening. A Christian mis- 
 sionary (Catholic) had been driven from the town, and 
 where Catholics can't retain a hold, it is not the place to 
 be careless in. We found a body of soldiers in a few 
 yards of our dwelling next morning, and to them, under 
 God's good providence, we may have owed our safety. 
 
181 
 
 The Arabs failing to kill us the fleas tried. Mr. M., 
 who was tender and afforded good pasturage, remarked 
 that one could stand two or three hundred fleas, but 
 when they came by baskets full and bushels, the supply 
 was beyond the demand, reminding one of the boarder 
 at school who said he did not mind hash for sixty or 
 seventy meals, but when it became a regular thing he 
 got tired of it. We survived them, however, and arose 
 next morning to pursue our way over the battle-field of 
 the world — the Plains of Jezreel. It is ravishingly 
 beautiful as a tract of country, and possessed of a histo- 
 ry that will ever claim a share of the research and study 
 of the historian and antiquarian. Thothmes III, before 
 the Exodus of the Israelites from Egypt, and Necho 
 fought here. Here fell Ahab and Ahaziah, Jehoram and 
 Jezebel, Sisera and Saul. The following is our diary 
 for that day, March 21 : 
 
 "Leaving our dwelling at 7 o'clock we go out by a 
 very large crystal fountain, source of Kishon, pass a 
 large Khan, full of Arab travelers, the Pasha's to the 
 right and a mosque to the left, and in two minutes are 
 on the plain. Jenin is full of gardens, cactus and palm- 
 trees. Twenty miles or less to our left is Mt. Carmel ; 
 on each side the fellahs (farmers) are weeding the wheat 
 and barley ; the air is vocal with the songs of birds, and 
 misty clouds, just enough to temper the rays of the 
 ascending sun, are flitting about. Soon we descry Mt. 
 Hermon, covered with snow, far to the north, Mt. Tabor 
 to the north-east, and Gilboa to the south-east. We are 
 in the midst of the plain, every acre of which has 
 drunk the blood of fallen warriors. It is well cultivated 
 for Arab farmers, and very fruitful, but the poor fellah 
 is robbed by the government of all except the scantiest 
 
182 
 
 support ; to be tardy in paying tax is a crime severely 
 punished. The collectors go in pairs, often in squads of 
 four and six, armed with swords and repeating rifles. 
 They levy on olive trees and collect for them before they 
 bloom. Arabs have taken the sword and literally perish 
 by the sword in the hand of the tax-gatherer. We come 
 in two hours to Jezreel, home of Jezebel, Ahab, and 
 Naboth, of Jehu, Jehoram and Gideon. Jezreel is on a 
 hill, the first of the Gilboa range from the west. The 
 houses are ail built of mud. 
 
 We pass Fuleh, scene of the battle of Mt. Tabor, 1799, 
 where Kheber, with fifteen hundred French soldiers 
 fought twenty-five thousand Turks for six hours, when 
 Napoleon came up with six hundred more and routed 
 them. Here at hand is the part of the plain where 
 Gideon, with his three hundred t lat lapped vanquished 
 the PhiUstines by night. There they in turn triumphed 
 over Saul the day after he had gone over yon hilf 
 to consult the witch whose cave is in Endor, just behind. 
 
 One or two miles to the east are the "high places" — 1 
 Sam. 29 ; 2 Sam. 1: 19-27. And sparkling in the sun- 
 light to our right are the waters of Gideon's fountain, 
 w^here his thirsty troops lapped water as a dog — Judg. 
 7: 6. Before we are done taking in these things our 
 horses have walked into Shunem, scene of Elisha's la- 
 bors, where lived that woman with such correct ideas 
 of taste and political econom}^ as to have her husband 
 build a room to their house for the preacher. If any 
 would learn how she was paid many fold let him read 
 2 Kings, 4: 8-37. Mt. Carmel, to which she made her 
 servant drive the donkey in a trot, without stopping, is 
 in sight about fifteen miles west. Shunem is surround- 
 ed by a wall of living cactus, through which no living 
 animal much larger than a rat could pass. 
 
183 
 
 A mile beyond the town we pass a Bedouin encamp- 
 ment; they are flaying a sheep of the species called "fat- 
 tail." The tail is about the ordinary length of a sheep's 
 tail, but except the bone and skin is a solid lump of fat 
 weighing sometimes lorty pounds, and is used by the na- 
 tives for butter ! 
 
 We dine at Nain in a Catholic church, or rather in a 
 room joining the church. Here was performed the 
 miracle recorded in Luke 7: 12-15: "Now when he came 
 nigh to the gate of the city, behold, there was a dead 
 man carried out, the only son of his mother, and she 
 was a widow : and much people of the city w^as with 
 her. And when the Lord saw her he had compassion 
 on her, and said unto her, weep not. And he came and 
 touched the bier : and they that bare him stood still. 
 And he said, Young man, I say unto thee, Arise. And 
 he. that was dead sat up, and began to speak. And he 
 delivered him to his mother." It is now a miserable 
 Arab village, about three miles from Endor, whither we 
 go to look into the cave visited by Saul the night pre- 
 ceding his death. The cave is there ; so are others ; so 
 we looked into it and some others also ; a large one is 
 shown as the real scene of the dialogue — 1 Sam. 28: 11- 
 19. A surly Turk was sitting in the cave when w^e visit- 
 ed it. He had a sword, but did not speak nor strike. 
 Here we saw many bee-gums on the roofs of the 
 mud houses, and quantities of bees very busy carrying 
 honey into gums made of mud. It is tw^o hours ride 
 from this place to the top of Mt. Tabor, where we go to 
 spend the night. 
 
CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 MT. TABOR, SEA OF GALILEE, NAZARETH. 
 
 While some doubt shades the title of Tabor to the 
 honor of the scene of our Lord's transfiguration, we gave 
 it the benefit of our sanction, and tried to feel that near 
 by us somewhere that august event occurred. 
 
 Napoleon had been here, we cared not for that, Alex- 
 ander perhaps, the Crusaders, Barak and Deborah and 
 even Melchizedek. Each had engaged in conflicts affect- 
 ing the destiny of nations, to greater or less extent, but 
 not for any nor all of these would we have gone thither. 
 We hoped to come if possible where the Son of Mary was 
 made so glorious before His Brethren's eyes. 
 
 We went up a zig-zag road through a thin forest of 
 low scrubby oaks, the summit is nearly level and ellip- 
 tical in shape, being about five hundred yards long by 
 three hundred wide. Old walls and fortifications scat- 
 tered in confused masses cover the entire top. It is 
 about eighteen hundred feet high, standing alone in the 
 plain. 
 
 From a certain point both the Mediterranean and Sea 
 of Galilee are visible, the country of Bashan and most 
 of central Palestine and all of the Plain of Esdraelon. 
 Nazareth fifteen miles across the plains among the hills 
 may be plainly seen. 
 
 A great educator from Massachusetts asked me, if T 
 had to obliterate from memory all that I had seen in the 
 
185 
 
 Holy Land with a single exception which particular 
 thing or place would I retain? Finding it difficult 
 to decide he quickened my thought by mentioning 
 Esdraelon. 
 
 The Russians or Greeks and Latins both have churches 
 here, and priests but no worshipers. We spent the 
 night with the latter, cut a nice walking stick or two, 
 some pen-holders, and read up such history as we had 
 in the Bible and guide-books relating to Mt. Tabor. 
 
 Next morning we rode across the plains passing a fair 
 of which a missionary testifies : 
 
 " The noise is incessant, and at a distance sounds like that "of 
 many waters," Every man is crying his wares at the top of his 
 voice, chickens cackle and squall, donkeys bray and fight, and 
 the dogs bark. Every living thing adds somewhat to the many- 
 toned and prodigious uproar. It is now a miscellaneous comedy 
 in full operation where every actor does his best, and is su- 
 premely gratified at his own performance. 
 
 The people find many reasons for sustaining these antiquated 
 and very curious gatherings. Every man, woman, and child 
 has inherited the itch for trading, and, of course, all classes meet 
 at this grand bourse to talk over the state of the markets, from 
 the price of a cucumber to that of a $5,000 horse from the 
 Hauran. They meet to talk of the news. These fairs are the 
 daily newspaper, and there is one for every day within a cir- 
 cuit of forty miles. They are the exchange and forwarding office, 
 corresponding to our markets, fairs, conventions, picnics, excur- 
 sions, etc." 
 
 Millions of bees gathered sweets from nature's pro- 
 digal gardens, through which also shepherd boys tended 
 hundreds of sheep, and goats with ears a foot in length, 
 making them equally as conspicuous as the fat-tail 
 sheep. About noon our dragoman, who rode in front of 
 us reined up his horse and turned him around, saying 
 
 BACKSHEESH ! by which he meant I have led you to a 
 12 
 
186 
 
 sight worth plenty of money, and so he had. In one 
 minute more we paused at the top of a hill that descended 
 suddenly for a thousand feet; under the hill lay the city 
 of Tiberias in the margm of the sea of the same name. 
 The sea of Galilee is thirteen miles long by seven wide, 
 greatest diameters, and 666 feet below the level of the 
 Mediterranean. Its surface was pretty smooth, except 
 here and there it appeared to be the play-place of just 
 the tiniest zephyrs which would go in every direction, 
 never staying long enough nor yet hastening strong 
 enough to more than betray their presence and make a 
 picture as by one magic touch. 
 
 " The winds with wonder whist, 
 Smoothly the waters kissed." 
 
 The lake is girt about by a plain in places one or two 
 miles wide. We walk down this dreadful hill, take din- 
 ner, get a boat and go to Tel- Hum or Capernaum, now 
 desolate ; go through the ruins over-run with weeds, stand 
 on the foundation of an old church supposed to be the 
 one built by that Roman who wished Jesus to heal his 
 servant — Luke 7:3-5, and the synagogue in which Jesus 
 often preached. I looked over the desolate place and 
 thought of his reproofs, when this was his home. Here 
 he called Peter, James and John ; — here he delivered that 
 most remarkable discourse — John 6. 
 
 It is a never-to-be-forgotten object lesson one learns in 
 wandering amongst these cities once so populous, once 
 so blessed, now so forsaken. 
 
 We return by Bethsaida (fish town). Nothing re- 
 mains of it but a mill. We gathered some shells for 
 far-awav friends, saw our boatmen catch a nice draught 
 of fishes, and returned througli the darkness. The jack- 
 
187 
 
 als screamed and howled on the shore. We were under 
 a clear sky and gazed up at the 
 
 " stars that shine nightly on blue GaUlee." 
 
 The wind arose and we talked of the night that fol- 
 lowed the miracle of feeding the five thousand when the 
 disciples were in such evil plight. We read all the refer- 
 ences to the Sea of Galilee, and the Gospels became, in 
 a sense, new to us. 
 
 Next morning I went out and took a bath in the pel- 
 lucid lake, picked up a smooth stone, rode down to see 
 the Sulphur Spring, where baths may be had in a well 
 fitted bathroom free of charge. They are said to be very 
 potent in curing rheumatism. The temperature of these 
 springs is 128° Fah, and when we visited them the 
 rooms were so filled with sulphurous vapor that one 
 could hardly breathe in them. 
 
 Our next objective point is Nazareth. We pass, on 
 the way, the Mount of the Beatitudes, by which the 
 Crusaders fought their last battle and were vanquished 
 by the Moslems under Saladin, A. D. 1187. We reach 
 Cana about noon and take lunch in a pomegranate gar- 
 den, Drs. Burkley and Bancroft ride by, going towards 
 Tiberias. We all wish to see the jars w^iich held the 
 wine made of water by Jesus, at the wedding, but the 
 Greeks and Catholics have possession of them (if they 
 exist at all) and are quarreling about whose they are, 
 and we were debarred the privilege. Going over the 
 same road Jesus so often traveled from Nazareth to 
 Capernaum, we reached Nazareth Saturday afternoon 
 about 3 o'clock and stayed until Monday morning. 
 
 We took a guide and went to the precipitous place 
 over which the wicked Jews purposed throwing Jesus, 
 
188 
 
 called the Hill of Precipitation. " And all they in the 
 synagogue, when they heard these things, were filled 
 with wrath, and rose up, and thrust him out of the city, 
 and led him unto the brow of the hill whereon their 
 city was built, that they might cast him down headlong. 
 But he, passing through the midst of them, went his way." 
 — Luke 4:28-30. I attended the Episcopal Mission 
 church in the forenoon and looked through their splen- 
 did Female College in the afternoon, where about 80 or 
 100 girls are being educited and Christianized. They 
 also have seven other schools in the country around, 
 superintended by Miss Edith Gaze Brown. These girls 
 are to become wives and mothers some of these days, and 
 that of the best people of the country . They are sowing 
 good seed in a fruitful field. I should say that this 
 mission belongs to the "Ladies' Evangelical Society in 
 the East," whose headquaters are in London. They re- 
 peat Psalms, and sing from "Gospel Hymns" in Sunday 
 School and also use the International Lessons. The 
 tourists spending Sabbath in Nazareth were invited to 
 tea in the college Sabbath evening and addresses were 
 made by several clergymen. 
 
 In Xazareth one is shown Joseph's house, work-shop, 
 Church of the Annunciation, and a stone over which a 
 church is built, on which it is claimed Jesus ate with 
 his disciples before and after his resurrection, though 
 the evidence to establish the truth of these claims is 
 not very satisfactory. 
 
 We ascended the hill to the Wely Sem'ftn, (tomb of 
 Simeon) above the town. We can see Acre and the Sea; 
 beyond Esdraelon and the intervening hills, the plain 
 of Sharon. While enjoying this sumptuous panoramic 
 fea^t three young men came up, one of whom was near- 
 
189 
 
 ]y blind, (20 per cent, of these people have injured eyes.) 
 He told me he would give me a hundred dollars to cure 
 his eyes ; a more impossible task was never presented. 
 I thought of my weakness, and at the same time of the 
 power of Him whose bo34iood was spent in the city be- 
 low and on these hills and plains, who undertook just 
 such a case while he lived, and whose power was not 
 shortened because He had moved His dwehing place. 
 I preached unto him Jesus. He was a Christian. They 
 drew a Bible on me to know on what I based my belief 
 that Jesus would heal his eyes. I told him to read John 
 14: 13-14. He said he would pray for eye-sight, and I 
 promised to pray for him. 
 
 They left me and went off to an olive tree, under 
 which they sat down to read the book they had and 
 ponder no doubt upon the liberal construction they had 
 just heard put upon its announcements. As I looked 
 at them I thought of the boyhood of Jesus, who must 
 often have climbed these hills to gaze at the snow-cov- 
 ered mountains in the north, the luxuriant plain below 
 and the great sea beyond. Yes, all these, so delightful 
 to me, were all familiar to Him. He must often have 
 lingered here till twilight softened the scene and dark- 
 ness shut out air but His own thoughts upon human 
 life, man's folly and his danger, his possible attainment 
 and the effort he purposed putting forth to rescue us; 
 His conflict with evil and error. His, rejection and 
 death, that life might become a more stupendous reality 
 to man, and immortality might be brought to light. 
 
CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 MT. CARMELIAND THE COASTS OF TYRE 
 AND SID ON. 
 
 Leaving Nazareth we reach Haifa under Mt. Carmel 
 in six hours, passing on the way several small towns, 
 some among the hills built of stone, some on the plain, 
 of mud. We met between thirty and forty women, with 
 large copper basins filled with milk, holding five or six 
 gallons each, going to Nazareth. Several men were 
 with them, but they rode donkeys, never deigning to 
 touch the loads carried by their wives, mothers and 
 sisters. That is the custom here ; the women are on a 
 level with the donkeys, as laborers. We find a good 
 hotel, dine, and spend the afternoon going through the 
 German colony, which is a model in its way. It is a 
 cosmos in miniature. Next morning I went with our 
 muleteer to the top of Mt. Carmel. The Catholics have 
 a church over the cave in which Elijah hid, when Ahab 
 sought his life. Near by is the cave in which Obadiah 
 is said to have hid the fifty prophets — 1 Kings 28: 13. 
 Napoleon used this church for a hospital when he be- 
 sieged Acre, twelve miles across or around the bay, in 
 1799. 
 
 Haifa is a seaport. Most of the inhabitants are Chris- 
 tians and Germans. They seem very thrifty, and came 
 here to have religious liberty as our pilgrim fore-fathers 
 came to America. I do not understand their creed, 
 however, even after hearing it explained. The govern- 
 
191 
 
 ment is macadamizing a road from this place to Tiberias 
 by Nazareth and Cana. From this point telegraph wires 
 run to Jerusalem, Shechem, Tiberias, Nazareth, Beirut. 
 
 There are many nice orange groves and vineyards 
 here, and much wheat is shipped hence to France and 
 Spain. In the afternoon of next day we rode around 
 the bay, crossed the Kishon, "that ancient River Kishon," 
 on whose banks Elijah slew the prophets of Baal — 1 
 Kings, 18: 40, It is a small stream, barely large enough 
 to turn a mill at this season, though large enough ta 
 sweep away companies of soldiers under Sisera's retreat. 
 
 We stopped for the night in Acre, called also Ptole- 
 mais and St. John d'Acre. It is the "Key of Palestine," 
 has been besieged and burnt often. Its history goes 
 back to the Egyptian kings, centuries B. C, and it 
 figured largely in the crusades. Its present population 
 is 5,000, of whom 700 are Cln-istians, the remainder 
 Mohametans. 
 
 A German preacher, named Bitzer, joined us here 
 and traveled with us the rest of the way. 
 
 I and Isa (our dragoman) took a boat and went out 
 to the steamer on which Mr. M. was going to Beirut, to 
 see how he was getting on. There were about twenty 
 Arab boats laden wdth w^heat, destined to some 
 distant market. While we were on the steamer all bu- 
 siness was suspended and the greatest possible uproar 
 began. I thought one of the wheat boats was sinking, 
 but the confusion increased to such an extent I con- 
 cluded the steamer w^as going down. The Arabs (about 
 one hundred of them) were all talking at once; some of 
 them were frantic and gesticulated like madmen. I 
 could not understand a word they said, but knew that 
 something awful had happened or was about to happen, 
 
192 
 
 so I told Isa to let us be going. He laughed, and told 
 me the occasion of the excitement, as follows: One of 
 the crew had smiled at a Mussulman who was praying 
 on the deck of the boat, (a very common thing), the 
 Arab had seen himj and wanted him punished by the 
 officers of the ship, and all the rest were in sympathy 
 with the aggrieved devotee. 
 
 In the twelfth century more than ten times the pres- 
 ent population were killed here during a single siege. 
 In the thirteenth century Khalit-Ibn-Khalaem, Sultan 
 of Egypt, besieged and captured it in thirtj^-three days 
 and slew 25,000 Christians, many of w^hom (ladies) cut 
 their own noses off to escape more barbarous treatment. 
 Many remnants of the crusaders may still be seen, 
 notably the old church of St. John, and a hospital. We 
 drank from a fountain of brackish water, said to have 
 wrought miraculous cures. But the greatest honor the 
 place has ever known is recorded in Acts xxi: 7. 
 
 Leaving Acre next morning we saw many people 
 gathered on the outside of the city gate. They were 
 both from the town and country, the former had come 
 out to buy the vegetables, the latter had brought to sell, 
 which were auctioned off by the donkey load without 
 unloading the beast. The following articles were selling 
 at different stations as we passed : Onions, carrots, pota- 
 toes, lettuce and other salads, oranges lemons, milk and 
 curds. They are sold outside the gate to avoid taxation. 
 
 A splendid aqueduct brings water from the mountains 
 to the town. We ride by this about ten miles. Our 
 road now lies to the north and passes through rich plains 
 in which are groves of oranges and lemons. We dine 
 at Khan de Rhauna on fresh fish, which they catch in a 
 large circular net by wading out into the surf until the 
 
193 
 
 fish comes in sight when the net which has been slightly 
 twisted is thrown like a lasso, and having a leadline 
 sinks down rapidl}^ around the fish, the leadline is 
 pulled up then to a focus by a draw string, a hole is left 
 in the top just large enough to take out the fish. 
 
 We pass over White Cape, where the road is cut 
 around the cliff" five hundred feet above the water and a 
 stumbling or misstep of the horse would precipitate the 
 rider into the sea. This is the old Roman road leading 
 from Caesarea to Antioch. We descend into the plains 
 filled with old wells and stone troughs, and walls, and 
 steps, remnants of Hiram's Tyre, which was nineteen 
 miles in circumference. We pass near by Hiram's tomb 
 and ride into Tyre and to the house of Abdul Malak 
 (Servant of the Angel). There are ruins here that would 
 tempt the archaeologist and antiquarian to linger many 
 a day. 
 
 The wharf is built of polished columns of stone that 
 once supported domes of palaces and temples " of per- 
 fect beauty." Massive pillars of red granite, monoliths, 
 a section of which looks like a heart cut of stone, and 
 twenty-five feet long by four in diameter, and smaller 
 pieces lie scattered all about, marking the tracks of the 
 destroyers, which Ezekiel, chaps, xxvii-xxviii, said 
 would come this way. Tyre was built 2350 B. C, and 
 with her parent, Sidon, taught navigation to the world, 
 and colonized Carthage. Earthquakes, fire, the sea and 
 war have all exhausted their resources upon Tyre. 
 Tyre and Sidon were given to Asher in the division of 
 Canaan but they never got possession of them. The 
 Israelites were feeders to them and they were necessary 
 to the Israelites, possibly until they became so amalga- 
 mated, especially in religion, as to have all things in 
 
194 
 
 common, peaceably. A huge mound stands by the way 
 just before reaching Tyre; on this it is said once stood 
 the temple of Hercules. 
 
 From Tj^re to Sidon we cross the Leontes River, called 
 here Xahr-el-Kasineiyeh, on a beautiful stone bridge 
 supported by a single arch sixty feet wide, the ruined 
 city of Ornithopolis, the Cave-temple of Astarte, Sarep- 
 ta, now in ruins, and a house of white stone on the site 
 of the house of the widow that fed Elijah. — 1 Kings, 
 17: 9-16. Every inch of this ground has been employed 
 in making the history of our race, and imagination re- 
 peoples it, rebuilds its cities, with streets full of business 
 and romping children, its temples resounding with As- 
 tarte's praise, repaints its battle scenes of holocaust and 
 ca23tive's clanking chains, feels again the earthquake's 
 shock, and trembles at the terrible vengeance of the 
 Almighty angered. 
 
 "Therefore, thus saith the Lord God; Behold, I am 
 against thee, Tyrus, and will cause many nations to 
 come up against thee as the sea causeth her waves to 
 come up. And they shall destroy the w^alls of Tyrus, 
 and break down her towers; .... and they shall 
 lay thy stones and thy timber and thy dust in the midst 
 of the water. And I will cause the noise of thy songs 
 to cease: and the sound of thy harps shall be no more 
 heard. And I will make thee like the top of a rock : 
 thou shalt be a place to spread nets upon; thou shalt be 
 built no more : for I the Lord have spoken it, saith the 
 Lord God."— Ezk. 26. 
 
 We stop at a good hotel at Sidon, kept by an Arab. 
 The parlor, saloon, and bed-rooms are on the second 
 floor, while some shops foce the street on the lower story. 
 The whole building surrounds an open court about fifty 
 
195 
 
 feet square, where the horses and donkeys are kept. 
 The latter kept up a constant braying which preveats 
 one from becoming lonesome. 
 
 The saloon accommodates from one to two hundred 
 guests. It is fitted up with tables for billiards, cards, 
 backgammon, checkers, &c., &c., for all the city Arabs 
 gamble and smoke all day and often till midnight. 
 
 Our dragoman had been cross and negligent the day 
 w^e reached Sidon; I had seemed displeased. That 
 evening after supper he came into my room and begged 
 my pardon, took my hand, put it to his forehead and 
 kissed it, and took it several times to repeat his professed 
 submission to my will. I tried to think him sincere, 
 forgave him, and dismissed him seemingly satisfied. 
 
 Sidon is a very ancient city and was so named prob- 
 ably in consequence of its having been a fishery. (Saida 
 means fish). It was built by the grandson of Noah, and 
 invented the art of navigation, carpentry, sculpture, 
 making glass, stone cutting, casting iron, &c. — Josephus, 
 b. 1: 6. 
 
 The present population numbers about 12,000, of 
 w^hom 2,500 are christians, 300 are Jew^s. Nearly all 
 of these, however, belong to the Greek and Latin church- 
 es ; but there is a Protestant school doing a good work, 
 under the patronage of the church of England. 
 
 The road from Sidon to Beirut is the roughest w^e have 
 traveled over, though the French soldiers made a splen- 
 did road here only a few scores of years ago, but it is 
 ruined now. Every two or three miles on all the im- 
 portant roads of Palestine and Syria there is a little 
 stone house built, called a guard house. We were glad 
 to see that traveling had got to be very safe, as indicated 
 by the absence of the guards from most of these. 
 
196 
 
 We pass over the battle ground of Ptolemy and An- 
 tiochus the Great, fought 218 B. C, and where tradition 
 says the whale left Jonah, and where the Nahr-El-Danur 
 flows cool and deep from Mt. Lebanon. There are many 
 silk flictories along the road and thousands of acres of 
 the plains and hillsides are devoted to the culture of 
 mulberry trees for the manufacture of silk. We leave 
 to our right the perishing home of the eccentric lady 
 Stanhope, who died as she had hved in self-imposed 
 exile, "unwept, unhonored" and unloved. 
 
 We pass through a belt of deep red sand for three or 
 four miles between walls made ol this sand when wet, 
 about four or five feet high, through groves of pine trees, 
 owned by the government and used for telegraph poles. 
 They are trimmed up and are as thick as pines can 
 grow, even in North Carolina. We pass the customs 
 officers and at 4 p. m. on the twelfth day after leaving 
 Jerusalem ; stop at the Hotel del' Universe, kept by a 
 native Syrian, and never found a better, nor cheaper 
 one in all our travels. 
 
CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 BEIRUT. 
 
 Our first thought on reaching Beirut was one of relief 
 at having terminated a journey perilious on account of 
 the treachery of the people one must associate with and 
 depend upon, and the excessive heat of the climate 
 along the coast. We were mindful of the good provid- 
 ence of God that had shielded us hourly through the 
 worst dangers we would brave. Grateful letters awaited 
 us at the post office, and newspapers from home. After 
 dinner our dragoman, muleteers and donkey boy came 
 to my room to bid me farewell and receive backsheesh. 
 These fellows will appear to be nearly heartbroken at 
 parting with the traveler, but if disai3pointed in the 
 quantity of backsheesh expected, will go off pouting and 
 it is said, sometimes not even say good-bye at all. 
 
 We had a written contract to the effect (specified) that 
 all backsheesh was to be paid by our cicerone ; neverthe- 
 less he, with all the rest, seemed to have lost sight of 
 that, and wanted all possible perquisites. 
 
 Next morning I went to see Mr. M. at the Hospital of 
 the Knights of St. John, where he had gone the day 
 previous to our arrival, and though blessed with the 
 best medical attention to be found anywhere ; his conva- 
 lescence was so slow as to require him to stay about two 
 weeks. I remained with him four days, and bade him 
 adieu with a sad heart, for in the seven weeks in which 
 we had been constantly together, our attachment for 
 
198 
 
 each other and dependence upon one another, had 
 grown to be like that of two brothers. Now our journey 
 lay apart, and both were once more alone at the farthest 
 point from home. 
 
 The following is an extract from a letter written since 
 his return home : "After you left Beirut I had to remain 
 about ten days, for Dr. Post would not let me go for a 
 week after I was up and about the garden. Dr. Post 
 told me he and Dr. Dight had a consultation every 
 morning over my case, for they did not understand it ; 
 
 concluded it was malaria in the main 
 
 Well, it was a grand trip, was it not? Who could picture 
 old Egypt as it is? Or ever get a just view of the Holy 
 Land as we saw it? Or imagine Pompeii or Rome? It 
 is all like a dream, but when I fix my thought on any 
 one part of it, it becomes all clear as a picture." 
 
 Beirut is a city of over one hundred thousand inhab- 
 itants, most of whom are Arabs and Turks, but there 
 are many French, Germans, Greeks and Italians also, 
 and some English. The Enghsh, French and Austrians 
 each have a post office, as well as the Turks, and I be- 
 lieve the Italians as well. It is the principal seaport of 
 Syria, ant carries on a large wholesale trade with Da- 
 mascus and the inland towns farther in the interior. 
 There are several factories here making silk g jods, soap, 
 nargilehs, glass goods, shoes, sandals, copper-ware and 
 hard-ware generally. The city is taking on an Euro- 
 pean air to a considerable extent. 
 
 I went one day to Nahr-El-Kelb, (Dog River) which 
 is a sight well worth the time and trouble to see. It 
 flows from the Lebanon mountains and is cold. From 
 this stream Beirut is supplied with drinking water, 
 driven about six or seven miles through pipes, by a 
 
199 
 
 steam engine. The Nahr-El-Kelb flows through a canon 
 whose sides are nearly perpendicular and about five or 
 six hundred feet high. The rock forming the sides of 
 this canon is limestone, and several places have been cut 
 smooth for receiving inscriptions and reliefs. One of 
 these, life size, represents Salmanezer, another Rameses 
 the Great, cut in relief There are also inscriptions in 
 relief to Marcus Aurelius and Napoleon III. A stone 
 bridge, centuries old, spans the stream about a quarter 
 of a mile from the beach ; over this bridge mules were 
 carrying sugar cane on their backs, and I judged there 
 w^as a sugar factory near by from the vast amounts haul- 
 ed. Two large bundles weighing three or four hundred 
 pounds are balanced on the mules' backs and the}" go 
 without a driver to the proper destination. 
 
 The highway is a continuation of the old Roman road 
 to Antioch, and is in good condition, being macadam- 
 ized ; it passes through mulberry groves all the way 
 around the sandy beach of St. George's bay. 
 
 This entire population is Christian, even for many 
 miles in the interior. And so bigoted are th^}^ that 
 they will not only not hear any other sect, but will not 
 allow others to plant a school or church among them ; 
 they are Catholics chiefly ; some, however, belong to the 
 Greek church. They are as violent as the Latins in 
 their hostility to Protestanism. Dr. Jessup had in hand 
 the case of a missionary at Sidon who had been arrested 
 on the charge of murder ; everything was being done 
 by the Catholics that could be to secure his execution. 
 It was my privilege to contribute to a fund being raised 
 to secure his release. The wounds our Lord has received 
 in the house of his friends have checked the onward 
 march of his kingdom more than all the infidelity, ra- 
 
200 
 
 tionalism, agnosticism, and all other forms of skepticism 
 together. 
 
 It was my privilege to visit the various institutions 
 doing work directly for Christ in Beirut, and I copy 
 from statictics and statements placed in my hands by 
 our Missionaries a concise history and outline of their 
 labors. 
 
 The following is an extract from a letter written by 
 myself to the Raleigh Christian Advocate, from 
 Beirut : 
 
 "I thought I w^ould write you about the wonderful 
 work of missions here in Beirut, but I have found to 
 my hand a summary, by the dauntless Dr. Strong, to 
 the correctness of which I wish to bear testimony. I 
 had the pleasure of visiting their college for young men, 
 and through the courtesy of the President, Dr. Bliss, 
 of acquainting myself somewhat with their equipments 
 and methods. It is nearly, if I may not say, quite an 
 ideal college. They have about two hundred pupils, 
 w^ho show real culture in manner and conversation. 
 The College is well equipped, located and managed. I 
 may say the same of Miss Thompson's school, except as 
 to numbers ; she has only 50 or 60 I think. Their hos- 
 pital is all one could desire. They have a large printing 
 establishment, through which I looked, and it keeps 
 many hands busy. I called on Dr. Van Dyck, who re- 
 marked in answer to my interrogations regarding the 
 history, present status and outlook of missionary labors 
 in Syria and among the Mohammedans, that already 
 there was crystallizing energy sufficient to cast a system 
 or polity for local church government. This fact fur- 
 nishes very practical evidence in support of the claims 
 of Christian Missions." 
 
201 
 
 Dr. Strong says : "Beirut, in Syria, is called the 'crown-jewel 
 of modern missions.' It was taken from the bed of Moslem 
 degradation, cut and set by the deliberate planning of a hand- 
 ful of American Christians. As late as 1826 Beirut was a strag- 
 gling, decaying Mohammedan town, without so much as a car- 
 riage-way through it, a wheeled vehicle, or a pane of window 
 glass in it. The missionaries who came to it were persecuted 
 by the authorities and mobbed by the populace. Some were 
 driven to the Lebanons ; others fled to Malta. There they 
 matured their plans, chimerical to all but the eye of faith. 
 They projected Christian empire for Svria, not the gathering of 
 a few converts. Schools, colleges, printing-houses. Western 
 culture in science, art and religion, were all included in their 
 plan. They returned to Beirut bringing a hand-press and a font 
 of Arabic type. 
 
 Night after night a light gleamed from a little tower above 
 the mission building— a prophetic light seen out on the Medi- 
 terranean-where Eli Smith, and, after he was gone, the still 
 living Dr. Van Dyck labored in translating the Bible into Arabic. 
 When, in 1865, Dr. Van Dyck flung down the stairway the last 
 sheet of 'copy' to the compositor, it marked an era of import- 
 ance to Syria and Asia Minor, to Egypt and Turkey, and all the 
 scattered Arabic-speaking peoples, greater than any accession or 
 deposition of Sultans or Khedives. There is nothing more 
 eloquent than the face of the venerable translator, in which can 
 be read the making of the grandest history of the Orient. The 
 dream of the exiles has been accomplished. Beirut is to-day a 
 Christian city, with more influence upon the adjacent lands than 
 had the Berytus of old, on whose ruins it has risen. Stately 
 churches, hospitals, a female seminary, a college, whose gradu- 
 ates are scattered over Syria, Egypt and wherever the Arab 
 roams ; a theological seminary, a common-school system, and 
 three steam presses, throwing ofi" nearly half a million pages of 
 reading matter a day ; a Bible-house, whose products are found 
 m India, China, Ethiopia, and at the sources of the Nile ; these 
 are the facets of that 'crown jewel' which the missionaries have 
 cut with their sanctified enterprise." 
 
 The following condensed report explains itself: 
 
 13 
 
202 
 
 PLACES OF EVANGELICAL WORSHIP IN BEIRUT, 
 
 Together with brief statistics of Evangelical Work in the city, and of 
 the American Mission in Syria. 
 
 I. 
 
 WORSHIP AND PREACHING IN THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE. 
 
 1. American Mission Church. 
 
 2. Church of England Service. 
 
 3. Chapel of Syrian Protestant Church. 
 
 4. British Syrian Schools. 
 
 II. 
 
 WORSHIP AND PREACHING IN THE GERMAN AND FRENCH. 
 
 1. Chapel of Prussian Deaconesses. 
 
 WORSHIP AND PREACHING IN ARABIC. 
 
 1. American Mission Church. 
 
 2. Syrian Protestant College. 
 
 3. Eastern Chapel. 
 
 4. Musaitebeh Chapel. 
 
 5. Orphan House of the Prussian Deaconesses. 
 
 6. Hospital of the Knights of St. John. 
 
 7. Moslem School of Miss Taylor. 
 
 8. Six Arabic Sunday Schools. 
 
 9. Six Classes during the week for Bible Instruction to Women. 
 
 IV. 
 
 EVANGELICAL CHRISTIAN WORK AND EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. 
 
 1. American Presbyterian Mission, American Bible Society. 
 British and Foreign Bible Society. London Religious Tract 
 Society. 
 
 2. Theological Seminary of the American Mission. 
 
 3. Syrian Protestant College. 
 
 4. American Female Seminary. 
 
 5. British Syrian Schools— One Boarding School and seven 
 
 Day Schools. 
 
 6. Church of Scotland Mission to the Jews. 
 
 7. Prussian Deaconesses Orphan House and Boarding School 
 for Girls. 
 
 8. Miss Taylor's St. George's Moslem School for Girls. 
 
 9. German Boys' School. 
 
203 
 
 10. Day School of Syrian Protestants, and three other day 
 Schools. 
 
 11. Blind Schools for Men and Women. 
 
 V. 
 
 THE PRESS. 
 
 Rev. Samuel Jessup, Manager. 
 
 Mr. W. R. Glockler, Supt. 
 
 The Arabic Press of the American Mission printed in 1885: 
 
 Total pages 27,981,600 
 
 Of which Scriptures 17,378,600 
 
 Vols, of Scriptures distributed during 1885 23,576 
 
 Total No. of distinct books on the Press Catalogue.... 368 
 
 Total pages printed from the first 311,742,044 
 
 VI. 
 
 STATIONS OF THE AMERICAN PRESBYTERIAN MISSION IN SYRIA. 
 
 1. Beirut.— Rev. C. V. A. Van Dyck, M.D., D.D.; Rev. AV. W. 
 Eddy, D.D.; Rev. H. H. Jessup, D.D.; Rev. J. S. Dennis, D. 
 D.; Rev. S. Jessup, and their wives. Miss E. D. Everett, 
 Miss E. A. Thomson, Miss A. S. Barber, of the Female 
 Seminary. 
 
 Theological Seminary. — Instruction given by members of Bei- 
 rut Station. 
 
 Syrian Protestant College. — Rev. D. Bliss, D.D., President; Rev. 
 J. Wortabet, M.D.; Rev. G. E. Post, M.A., M.D.; Rev. Har- 
 vey Porter, B.A.; Thos. M. Kay, M.D.; Charles F. Dight, M. 
 D.; John C. Fisher, M.A., M.D.; Samuel P. Glover, M.D.; 
 Robert H. West, M.A.; Frank E. Hoskins, B.A.; Louis F. 
 Giroux, B.A.; Mr. Yuhanna Dakhil, Sheikh Khalil Ul- 
 Yazigil, Frank S. Woodruff, B.A.; Robert H. Beattie, B.A.; 
 Henry M. Hulbert, M.A.; Yusuf Aftimus, B.A.; Daud Sa- 
 lim, B.A.; Mr. Francis Riclia. 
 
 Medical Students 31 
 
 Collegiate Department 61 
 
 Preparatory Department 75 
 
 Total 167 
 
 Total Pupils in American Mission Schools in Syria 5,665 
 
 Of whom Girls 3,736 
 
 Total Number Members in Svrian Native Churches 1,301 
 
 Sabbath School SoJiolars " 3,804 
 
 Contributions of Native Churches $6,451 
 
204 
 
 2. Abeih and Suk el Ghurb.— Rev. Wm. Bird and wife; Miss 
 Emily Bird; Rev. T. S. Pond and wife. 
 
 3. Sidon.— Rev. W. K. Eddy and wife; Rev. Geo.i A. Ford. 
 Female Seminary.— Miss H. M. Eddy, Miss R. Brown, Miss 
 C. Brown. 
 
 4. Tripoli.— Rev. 0. J. Hardin and wife; Rev. F. W. March and 
 
 wife; Ira Harris, M.D., and wife. Female Seminary.— Miss 
 H. La Grange, Miss M. C. Holmes. 
 
 5. Zahleh.— Rev. G. F. Dale, Jr.; Rev. W. M. Greenlee, and 
 their wives. 
 
 6. Total American Missionaries, Men 14 \ qo 
 
 Women 24/ "^^ 
 
 Native Pastors 3^ 
 
 Total Native Syrian Preachers 35 V 189 
 
 Teachers and others 151 j 
 
 VII. 
 ST. John's hospital for 1888. 
 
 Indoor patients 491 
 
 Patients treated in Polyclinique 8,390 
 
 Total days of treatment 11,953 
 
 SEA OF GALILEE. 
 
CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 THE LAND, THE PEOPLE, THE MAN. 
 
 When we consider the geographical position of Pales- 
 tine, the^topography, climate, and vegetable productions 
 of the country, and the peculiar history and character- 
 istics of the Hebrew people, we see a remarkable fitness 
 in the land and the peojDle to entitle them to that choice 
 made by God in using them to carry out his purpose 
 concerning the race of mankind in their development. 
 Geikie says the land is peculiarly ad ipted to qualify its 
 inhabitants to write a book for all men, on account of 
 the cosmopolitan character of its vegetable grow^th. 
 "The teachings and illustrations of our Lord would have 
 been out of place in any other country except this. 
 They could not have been uttered anywhere else.''' — Thompson. 
 
 But what is still more significant is the character of 
 the Israelites. The call of Abraham from Ur of the 
 Chaldees has no counterpart in the history of any other 
 family. The announcements made to him, from time to 
 time, were new, mysterious, wonderful, and as far remov- 
 ed from him in their ultimate designs as the steamer that 
 carries the international mails is from the secrets that 
 slumber in its mammoth hold. 
 
 Palestine has been on the highway of the nations from 
 time immemorial. Asia Minor, Assyria, Persia, and all 
 the north and east passed that way to Egypt, Abyssinia, 
 Ethiopia and all places in Africa and vice versa, whether 
 
206 
 
 their mission was one of hostility, of commerce, of in- 
 vestigation or emigration ; thus making it one of the 
 strategic points most valuabe in impinging against the 
 citizenship of the world. The characteristics of Abra- 
 ham and his posterity were such as God would teach to 
 other peoples. 
 
 1. In the first 'place, Abraham had faith in God. He 
 believed God meant well towards man ; that all he did 
 was for man's good ; that he had a great concern for 
 man. He believed this with such an intensity that he 
 was ready to co-operate with God in any plan, to under- 
 take any task imposed upon him by God, so that he 
 obtained the honorable titles "Friend of God," "Father 
 of the Faithful." 
 
 This same peculiarity is exhibited in his children, 
 Isaac, Jacob, Joseph, and others whose names are re- 
 corded in Hebrews xi. 
 
 2. Domestic ajfection is peculiar to the Hebrews. 
 While God has given parental love to the lower animals 
 even, it is a remarkable fact that fallen human nature 
 descends below the brute world in many respects ; and 
 the nations of the east show an aversion to their chil- 
 dren, especially female children, that is not paralleled 
 among the lower animals, so far as I know. At this 
 time there are places where a little money would pur- 
 chase a car load of children from their parents, and 
 many female babes are strangled at birth. But the 
 Israelites loved their children. Witness Jacob when he 
 thought Joseph torn by wild beasts, and when Benja- 
 min was required ere they could obtain more bread. 
 "All these things are against me ;'' ^^aid he, "you will 
 bring down my gray hairs with sorrow to the grave," or 
 Joseph when he saw Benjamin— Gen. 45 — or David 
 
207 
 
 weeping over a would-be parricide until his heart seem- 
 ed broken.* 
 
 Take the following from the Nashville Advocate^ of 
 February 14, 1891. 
 
 "We can still learn salutary lessons of the Jewish people a& 
 well as of the Jewish Scriptures. Filial respect is one of the 
 most important elements in character, of which these times is 
 sadly deficient. It still lives in that ancient people. A corres- 
 pondent of the New York World draws this delightful picture 
 of filial reverence : 
 
 " 'There is nothing in the world of pleasure and recreation to 
 compare with the beautiful devotion that is paid the old He- 
 brew people by their children and grandchildren at the various 
 summer resorts. A rude remark is never made in their hearing^ 
 nor a disrespectful word uttered to aged mother or father. The 
 gentle yielding of easy chairs, the oftering of choice things to 
 eat and drink, the last consideration of self where there is a 
 drive or sail for a limited number, and the graceful anticipation 
 of creature comforts, are attributes of the children to which the 
 filial respect of the youthful Christian is not approachable.* 
 A lesson much needed among Christians." 
 
 3. They were a very sentimental people, and carried 
 
 their sentiment into their religion. Other nations built 
 
 temples in honor of their gods and sacrificed in them, 
 
 and feared and revered their divinities, but nowhere is it 
 
 said they loved them. Their worship was of the head — 
 
 it never reached their hearts. Hebrews had conceptions 
 
 of a being with sentiment. Jacob wrestled and agonized 
 
 in prayer until he prevailed. The Psalmist said, "my 
 
 heart and my flesh crieth out for the living God." And 
 
 their sentimental nature is seen to-day by the way they 
 
 repair weekly to the outside of the Sanctuary wall, and 
 
 weep as near the site of their once glorious temple as 
 
 possible, and the further fact that every Jew buried in a 
 
 * Every one loves his children, hut the Hebrews love them more tenderly 
 than other people.— Ebers, Uarda. 
 
208 
 
 foreign land wishes the "holy sand," or some of Pales- 
 tine's soil sprinkled upon his grave, and the Talmud 
 says they think that in some mysterious manner the 
 pious dead will make their way under ground to Mt. 
 Olivet, just above Jehoshaphat and appear on that 
 ground at the resurrection. 
 
 4. The Jew was conservative. This fitted him for re- 
 ceiving the sacred oracles, the written and oral law. No 
 "better evidence need be adduced than the facts that they 
 have kept the Pentateuch intact, or not materially al- 
 tered through the greatest imaginable vicissitudes, the 
 rising and falling of empires, the birth and death of 
 many nations, the extremes of climate, exaltation 
 persecution such as no other people has known ; all have 
 been too weak to more than barely modify the habits of 
 this people. The Samaritans, of Jewish origin partly, 
 (about one hundred and fifty remain at Sychar,) 
 still retain a Pentateuch manuscript said to be twenty- 
 six hundred years old, and it is about the same as ours, 
 and they still worship in the mountain of Gerizim, as 
 the woman of Sychar said to Jesus, and as they were 
 directed by Moses — Exodus 12. 
 
 5. Once more, the Hebrew was aggressive, or rather 
 liad the faculty of impressing his faith upon other peo- 
 ple, as Joseph in Egypt, whom we cannot think of 
 having a higher office at first than that of a donkey-boy, 
 ivho nevertheless made such progress as to stand beside 
 Pharaoh, all the time taking care of his religion, and 
 saying that it w^as in consequence of his God that he 
 •did well. He preached God the good to the King, and 
 with success, for he obtained favor for his (alien) people 
 until another Pharaoh was on the throne who "knew 
 not Joseph." 
 
209 
 
 Daniel, a captive lad, did the same, became prime 
 minister to four or five of the world's greatest monarch s, 
 and made Nebuchadnezzar say there is no God but Dan- 
 iel's God. "Now I, Nebuchadnezzar, praise and extol 
 and honor the King of heaven, all whose works are 
 truth, and His ways judgment ; and those that walk in 
 pride He is able to abase." 
 
 Likewise did Esther and Mordecai and Ezra and Ne- 
 hemiah. 
 
 Endowed thus, with powers and peculiarities on which 
 to base individual and national prosperity and develop- 
 ment, (the home is the bulwark of civilization and stable 
 government, but the home is built on Domestic affec- 
 tion,) God put this nation in contact with the people of 
 the earth at opportune times and in wise ways, making 
 such occasions reciprocally serviceable, mutually eleva- 
 ting, developing and diffusing light and knowledge until 
 other nations, besides, might be put in charge of the 
 mission which only one at first could undertake.* 
 
 We owe the Jew a debt. We obtained from him what 
 is best in us, at least the fertilizing of the germs of it ; 
 if not the nature, a knowledge of the first principles. 
 We believe for his excellence he was chosen. His ex- 
 cellent qualities were made prominent by the favor of 
 God, and his testimony is not nearly at an end. Let 
 him be kindly considei ed, for it is as George Eliot has 
 said, "The well-being of Israel is the well-being of the 
 church." 
 
 Traveling the length and breadth of this land, if 
 
 there has been any change whatever in my religious 
 
 views it has been to intensify my faith in the inspiration 
 
 of Scripture and the divinity of Jesus Christ. When 
 
 we consider the narrow limits of Palestine, the arduous 
 
 *For I know him, that he will command his children and his household 
 after him. 
 
210 
 
 toil necessary to production, and no resources whatf^ver 
 besides those of agriculture and the feeding of flocks ; 
 and when we consider that the Canaanites and other 
 tribes filled the country and occupied cities with high 
 walls, and that a nation which had for centuries been in 
 bondage, and showed its capacity and disposition for 
 war in the conduct of ten of the tw^elve spies sent to in- 
 vestigate, and the conduct of the camp on hearing their 
 report : "And they brought up an evil rej^ort of the land 
 which they had searched unto the children of Israel, 
 saying, The land through which we have goi.e to search 
 jt, is a land that eateth up the inhabitants thereof; and 
 all the people that we saw in it are men of a great sta- 
 ture. And there we saw the giants, the sons of Anak, 
 which come of the giants ; and we were in our own sight 
 as grasshoppers, and so we were in their sight. And all 
 the congregation lifted up their voice and cried; and the 
 people wept that night. And all the children of Israel 
 murmured against Moses and against Aaron : and the 
 whole congregation said unto them, Would God that we 
 had died in the land of Egypt! or would God we had 
 died in this wilderness ! And wherefore hath the Lord 
 brought us unto this land, to fall by the sword, that our 
 wives and our children should be a prey ? were it not 
 better for us to return into Egypt? And they said one to 
 another. Let us make a captain, and let us return into 
 Egypt." — Num. 13: 32 — 14: 4, when we consider, too, 
 little time was occupied in taking enough land for their 
 use and cities enough for their comfortable dwelling; and 
 when we read the law guaranteeing peace and prosper- 
 ity, and the conditions forfeiting the divine favor in 
 Deut. 28, etc., and study the history of the Jews, we see 
 a proof of the divine hand through all. 
 
211 
 
 When we consider, again, these narrow limits, and 
 contrast the products of this shepherd people in the 
 world of thought and morals, with those ot surrounding 
 nations, the conclusion is they were under the divine 
 guidance. There are the Ganges, the Euphrates and the 
 Nile flowing through lands of incalcuhdDle wealth. 
 There are Greece, Rome, and all the rest. From them 
 arose Ninevah, Babylon, Thebes, Cheops, the Acropolis, 
 Parthenon and Colosseum. They have given us war- 
 riors, statesmen, historians, poets, painters, sculptors and 
 architects, showing that there was not an indigenous 
 genius here, for many other lands have equalled this in 
 ordinary and extraordinary talent. But this little sec- 
 tion has done more than ony other one, or all others, for 
 it alone inherited ability to give to man an ultimate 
 ethical code ; and if we judge by the standard given by 
 its supreme law giver : That the servant of all is greatest 
 of all, then is it entitled to the fir&t place. 
 
 The Philosophers have all had a sameness about their 
 sayings, but the heroes of Scripture had uncommon and 
 unique experiences and gave utterance to equally uncom- 
 mon thoughts. Abraham, Job, Moses, David, Elijah and 
 Daniel were not as the other great men of the earth. They 
 were in many respects similar to one another ; but unlike 
 the heroes of poetry, history and biography of other lands. 
 
 Abraham, Isaac and Jacob stand out alone before the 
 world as moral pioneers, marking a highway of faith 
 and obedience, not yet improved upon, and in studying 
 these men we must do so remembering that they were 
 without the written word and examples since recorded. 
 "These all died in the faith, not having received the 
 promises, but having seen them afar off, and were per- 
 suaded of them, and embraced them." 
 
212 
 
 But once more ; when we remember that this people, 
 with such noble sires, proved unworthy sons, lost their 
 liberty and became subject to pagan masters, from one 
 of the meanest of their towns, of the poorest parents, 
 gave to the world a man of pure lips, of pure habits, of 
 great knowledge ard wisdom, yet having never learned, 
 totally unselfish amidst the most selfish, possessed of mi- 
 raculous power, fearless amidst hosts of enemies, defiant 
 •of accumulated ecclesiastical and traditional energy and 
 prestige, of wealth, or other forces, arresting in their 
 progress storms, devils and diseases, going about doing 
 good gratuitously amid the most mercenary, and choos- 
 ing the most ignoble men to take up and carry forward 
 his work where he left it off, until it should fill the 
 earth ; who put greater premium on suffering as a means 
 to secure adherents than on temporal gratifications ; in 
 fact, a man doing all things in a manner different from 
 all other men, against all men's natural propensities, yet 
 making them say "he hath done all things well ;" when 
 we study his life in his land, his time and his people, 
 when we consider how unfavorable his antecedents, and 
 his environments from every human standpoint, and the 
 sublimity, purity, simplicity and universal sweep of his 
 teachings, and that his biographer said "the common (!) 
 people heard him gladly," and who himself said for 
 eternal record, "If a man compel thee to go a mile with 
 him, go with him two," and "if he sue thee at the law 
 and take away thy cloak, let him have thy coat also" — a 
 man who, without reading history, political or moral 
 science, yet announced instinctively the foundation prin- 
 ciples on which alone pure and substantial civil and 
 social institutions can permanently be based; whose 
 foundations need not to be widened nor narrowed, and 
 
213 
 
 "other foundation can no man lay:" "Heaven and earth 
 shall pass away, but my word shall not pass away;" 
 when we consider all these things and stand before this 
 cosmopolitan character speaking to every nation and 
 every man, whose words need no altering forever, but 
 only to be obeyed, we bow down before him and say with 
 Nicodemus, "Thou art a teacher come from God," and 
 with the centurion, "surely this man was the son of 
 God," and with Peter, who knew him best of all, "Thou 
 art the Christ of God." 
 
 Two years after writing the above "The Land and the- 
 Book" fell into my hands. As it so forcibly and fully 
 speaks on this subject I copy what forty years of 
 sojourn amongst that people enabled the learned author 
 to testify with accuracy. He says : 
 
 "Jesus grew up from his youth to manhood amongst a people 
 intensely mercenary. This vice corrupted and debased every 
 relation of life. We can fill up the outlines of his picture from 
 the every-day life and manners of the people about us. Every 
 body trades, speculates, cheats. The shepherd boy on the 
 mountains talks about piastres from morning to night ; so does 
 the muleteer on the road, the farmer in the field, the artisan in 
 his shop, the merchant in his magazine, the pasha in his palace, 
 the Kady in the hall of judgment, the mullah in the mosque, 
 the monk, the priest, the bishop — money, money, money ! the 
 desire of every heart, the theme of every discourse, the end of 
 every aim. Everything too, is bought and sold. Each prayer 
 has its price, every sin a tariff. Nothing for nothing, but every 
 thing for money. Now our Lord was an Oriental, and grew up 
 among just such a people ; but who can or dare say there is the 
 faintest shadow of this mercenary spirit in his character? With 
 uncontrolled power to possess all, he owned nothing. He had 
 no place to be born in but another man's stable, no closet to 
 pray in but the wilderness, no place to die but on the cross of 
 an enemy, and no grave but one lent by a friend. At his death 
 he had absolutely nothing to bequeath to his mother. He was 
 as free from the mercenary spirit as though he belonged to a 
 
214 
 
 world where the very idea of property was unknown. And 
 this total abstinence from all ownership was not of necessity, 
 but of choice ; and I say there is nothing like it, nothing that 
 approaches it in the histor}' of universal man. It stands out 
 perfectly and divinely original. 
 
 "Jesus was the founder of a new religion. Milton makes the 
 Devil say to Jesus: 'If at great things thou would'st arrive, get 
 riches first ; get wealth, and treasure heap.' And this tempta- 
 tion no man under such circumstances ever did or could resist. 
 But Christ from the first took his position above the human 
 race, and to the end retained it without an efibrt. He divorces 
 his Gospel from any alloy of earth. Money, property, and all 
 they represent and control, have nothing to do with member- 
 ship in his society, with citizenship in his Kingdom. Not only 
 is the idea not human, it is every whit contrary to what is hu- 
 man. He could not have borrowed it, for he was surrounded 
 by those who were not able to comprehend the idea — no, not 
 even the apostles, until after the day of Pentecost. As to the 
 multitude, they sought Jesus, not because they saw the miracles 
 and were convinced, but because they ate and were filled. And 
 so it always has been and is now in this same country. . . . 
 
 He kneio that the multitude followed him for the 
 
 loaves and fishes ; that they sought to make him King that 
 they might revel in ease, luxury and power ; that the^'^ crowded 
 around him to be healed as people do now around our physi- 
 cians ; that one called him master to obtain a decision in his 
 favor against his brother in regard to the estate, as many join 
 the missionaries the better to press their claims in court. . . 
 . . . According to the parable, some will even claim admit- 
 tance into heaven because they had eaten and drank in his 
 presence, and still more absurd, because he had taught in their 
 streets. Xow, however ridiculous such pretensions may appear 
 to men in the AVestern World, I have had applications for 
 money in this country, urged earnestly, and even angrily, for • 
 precisely the same reasons. Our Lord founded the parable, 
 even to its external drapery and costume, not on fancy, but on un- 
 •exaggerated fact." 
 
CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 AMONG THE GRECIAN ISLES. 
 
 "Where burning Sappho loved and sung — 
 "Where Venus rose and Phoebus sprung," 
 We sailed, the Grecian Isles among. 
 
 From Beirut we embarked on the Vesta, of the Aus- 
 trian Lloyd Line. On account of cargo, we were delayed 
 thirty hours, and it is dark ere the rattle of loading- 
 machinery ceases and the thud of the propeller begins. 
 All night we go one hundred and fifty-six miles over a 
 rough sea ere we reach Cyprus, our first landing place. 
 As we stay here four hours, there is an opportunity and 
 a proposition to go ashore. We are half a mile from 
 Larnika, the principal town of the island, and land in 
 small row boats. Cyprus derives its name from Kiipros, 
 a plant that grows here and makes a reddish and yel- 
 lowish dye, with which the women throughout the East 
 color their nails. Once the island was covered with 
 forests, but these have all disappeared. Once large cop- 
 per mines were worked, and from Homer to Alexander 
 and later, they excelled in the manufacture of brazen 
 armor. It is said the metal copper derives its name from 
 Aes Citprium — euphonized or anglicized into co23per. 
 
 The King of Larnika, called Chittim in the Scrip- 
 tures — presented Alexander the Great with a sword, so 
 we are told by the historians. Cyprus produces wheat, 
 barley, cotton, silk, madder, oil, wine, caroobs (the husks 
 
216 
 
 of the prodigal son) and salt. But locusts are said to 
 eat up and destroy nearly half the products of the far- 
 mer commonly. 
 
 General di Cesnola, who was consul here for several 
 years, made very important discoveries at many of the 
 ancient city sites, all of which are fully detailed in his 
 book. We saw one place which he had honey-combed, 
 finding only an ancient cistern containing a few relics of 
 a remote age. 
 
 About the only thing worth visiting at Larnika is the 
 Church of St. Lazarus, (Greek.) You are shown the 
 spot where he died, after coming from Palestine, and 
 where he is buried (?). There is a painting of him in 
 the church, also of his resurrection, in which a bystand- 
 er is holding his nose to shut out the scent of the corpse. 
 Our young readers of Mythology will remember that it 
 was here the goddess Venus rose from the foam of the 
 sea, and a yearly festival is still held, in which all go 
 out on the water in boats ; it is believed to be on the 
 anniversary of Venus' birth from the sea, and so cele- 
 brated. Anciently young men specially sought wives on 
 these festival occasions ; no doubt many do still. 
 
 Ezek. 27: 6 rej^resents these islands as making box 
 and cedar wood fabrics, inlaid with ivory. They have 
 maintained this habit to the present time, although 
 ivory has given place to mother of pearl, which is prob- 
 ably meant by the prophet, for when we reached Ehodes, 
 the next point at which we anchored, the natives came 
 on board with large baskets full of boxes for tobacco, 
 matches, card cases, etc., with books and birds, and 
 canes of olive and lemon wood, some of them contain- 
 ing at least fifty pieces of mother of pearl, manufactured 
 by the state prisoners, and selling very cheap. 
 
217 
 
 We all bonglit several articles apiece. The most pop- 
 ular article of auy seemed to be a bird. It was made so 
 that the wings open and shut on hinges, and the back 
 with the wings open on another hinge, showing a jewel 
 case ill the body. As they hurried from the boat one of 
 these birds was dropped from the basket in which the y 
 were carried. I and a G-reek Priest were the first parties 
 on deck next morning, and he found it. I told him that 
 the Captain would take it back to the owners when the 
 vessel returned and it should be sent back to them. The 
 thought of such a thing seemed strange to him. He- 
 said such things were never done thereabouts ; and I 
 judge he spake truly if he did not act honestly. 
 
 Very anciently there was a high state of civilization 
 among the Rhodians, and they were very powerful in 
 commerce and on the seas, and Strabo tells us that the 
 city of Rhodes was more magnificent than either Rome 
 or Alexandria, both of which he had visited. Rhodes 
 (the island) furnished three of the cities that formed the 
 Dorian Hexapolis. These three afterwards united to make 
 the city of Rhodes, B. C. 409. 184 years later they erected 
 the statue of Apollo, 105 feet high, which stood little 
 over half a century as one of the wonders of the world. 
 The Romans drew largely on their codes of civil laws, 
 which were in advance of those of other contemporane- 
 ous nations. Some of our tourists heard a Greek relate 
 that when a disturbance arose between the women of the 
 island to break it up a reward was offered to the woman 
 who could dive the deepest and stay under longest. 
 
 They were engaged in many of the wars that were 
 
 waged on the various coasts of the Mediterranean. 
 
 They very bravely fought to maintain their independence 
 14 
 
218 
 
 against the European masters from Greece and Italy. 
 They submitted, however, to Alexander, but renounced 
 the domination of his successors. It is painful now to 
 see the degenerate race that occupy where once large 
 wealth and learning were common ; now there is a pro- 
 scription on even the effort to learn to read ; scarcely five 
 per cent, of the people can write their names ; nor is it 
 vastly better in most of these classic islands. I might 
 relate sad tales of fire and bloodshed in the history of 
 several of the group forming the Grecian Archipelago, 
 but the school boy can find them all in his history. 
 
 The next day after leaving Rhodes we came fairly into 
 the Grecian Archipelago. From the deck one sees islands 
 rise from the water, seeming to shut us in on all sides ; 
 now one rises suddenly from the sea and projects several 
 hundred feet into the air ; some rise into lofty mountains, 
 one or two of which were covered on top with snow, 
 while others stretch far away into undulating hills and 
 plains. At sunrise we sight Kos, or Cos, far ahead ; it 
 seems that we will leave it to the right, when the ship 
 turns North and we leave it to the left. Everybody 
 wishes to see all they can of Kos, and are above, with 
 glasses, taking in that part nearest the ship. Here 
 Hippocrates was born, the great medical man, and some 
 claim Apelles, the famous artist, who painted a portrait 
 of Alexander the great, who would not suffer it done by 
 any other artist. Kos, the capital, is a pretty seaport 
 
 Soon we come to Halicarnassus, the birth place of 
 the great historian, Herodotus, of Dionysius, and Hera- 
 clitus, the poet, the principal city of the island of Caria. 
 It was here that Artemesia, the Queen, 354 B. C, built 
 the famous Mausoleum over her husband, Mausolus, 
 
219 
 
 that ranked as one of the seven wonders of the world. 
 Causmg his bones to be burned and powdered, she put 
 the ashes thus made into water, which she drank until 
 she had made herself to receive all that remained of her 
 lamented lord. It was far off our line and we could only 
 see it through glasses. 
 
 We next land at Leros, a town of 3,000 inhabitants, 
 built in and on the steep sides of a ravine. From the 
 sea back the houses rise like stairsteps. On one hill top, 
 overhanging the city, are the remains of the old fortress, 
 besieged so long in vain by the Turks ; on another are 
 about half a dozen windmills with giant-like arms, 
 which look very lazy to one accustomed to seeing every 
 thing done by steam power. We pass Patmos without 
 stopping. Hither the proud Roman thought to exile 
 and silence God's Apostle. But from this rock pulpit 
 he preached so loud all nations shall hear him. Tradi- 
 tion points out the spot where the revelation was given. 
 A monastery has been built near by, the location of 
 which we could dimly see ; the island was in view for 
 several hours. Of course there was universal regret 
 that we must be content with merely looking from the 
 ship's deck, instead of traversing from side to side, and 
 gathering at least a flower or a stone as a memento of a 
 \dsit to the one island of all the seas most sacred by its 
 associations to every Christian ; but anxious as we were 
 to stop, and glad as we would have been to linger, it 
 was different with those who managed the ship. A 
 famous writer then on board says : 
 
 "Patmos is the embodiment of sternness and force; its altitude 
 is that of a giant who had thrust himself up and out of the sea, 
 and stood through the ages defying its power. As the plain of 
 Bethlehem was pre-eminently adapted to ttie heavenly visita- 
 
220 
 
 tion and jubilant song of the shepherds, so this bleak barren 
 rock is in harmony with the revelations of the absolute triumph 
 of God over sin and of the Kingdom of Christ over all king- 
 doms, there given to John. 
 
 "Nor is there any thing within or without the Bible more 
 sublime than this : 
 
 *"I, John, who also am your brother, and companion in trib- 
 ulation, and in the kingdom and patience of Jesus Christ, was 
 in the isle that is called Patmos, for the word of God, and for 
 the testimony of Jesus Christ.' " 
 
 About sunset we passed Scio, one of the many places 
 that claim to be the birth place of Homer. 
 
 "Seven cities boast the birth of Homer dead, 
 Through which the living Homer begged his bread." 
 
 We pass many steamers and sail boats in these waters, 
 indicating a vast amount of commerce. I have often 
 wondered how ships could sail so much among these 
 islands without shipwreck. The seas are deep to the 
 very shores, however. They have erected light-houses 
 where the danger is greatest, and lie to Avhen it is very 
 dark. Notwithstanding all this, the wonder of sailors' 
 skill and good judgment and great success does not 
 cease. And we lie down to sleep, feeling secure in their 
 hands under the merciful p»rotection of the Father of us 
 all. We awake in the beautiful harbor of Smyrna. 
 
CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 SMYRNA AND EPHESUS. 
 
 We landed at Smyrna on Sunday morning, and as 
 usual had the Turkish Custom-house Officers to pry 
 into every little parcel in our baggage ; this may com- 
 monly be avoided, however, by giving them backsheesh. 
 If time is precious, or one has doubtful articles, liable 
 to duty, or does not care to have a rough march through 
 one's luggage, it pays to end the matter by giving a 
 franc. If, on the contrary, one has plenty of time, 
 nothing liable to duty, and wishes to see what a Turk 
 can do in the matter of impudence and disregard for 
 others' property or feelings, when he has an opportuni- 
 ty, one only has to give up his baggage and seem not to 
 understand that he should pay any "thank money," 
 and the officer will show him pretty soon. Smyrna has 
 a population of 200,000 to 300,000, and with its suburbs 
 extends ten or twelve miles around the bay. 
 
 It has the prettiest quay I have seen anywhere, and a 
 row of buildings for two miles facing the sea, that for 
 elegance would adorn any city. They are largely coffee 
 houses, (Turks have no bar-rooms except for 'infidels," 
 that is. Christians,) with dwellings overhead, offices, 
 hotels, and private mansions. The street, 100 feet wide 
 and three feet above the water, inclines towards the bay 
 just enough to carry off the rain, and is traversed the 
 whole distance by a tram-way track, at the end of which 
 
222 
 
 is the railwa}" to Aidin. Across the bay steam yachts 
 or ferry-boats go fl}dng every few minutes laden with 
 passengers to and from some suburb, while a score of 
 steamers of all the European nations load and unload 
 their cargoes. It would be well not to leave the quay, 
 for very little else is so charming ; all the other streets 
 are narrow and mostly very filthy. I remember to have 
 seen dead dogs and cats and rats which were removed 
 only by the slow process of decomposition. Nor were 
 these sights the worst. I went through their fish mar- 
 ket. It is a study for the Zoologist — shell fish, slick 
 fish, scaly fish, red fish, black fish, abound. When there, 
 it would appear that there was nothing in town but fish. 
 It is largely so in the vegetable quarter. Then in the 
 bazaars, all covered over with an arch-way, and divided 
 up into stalls much like a livery stable, in each of which 
 a Turk sits cross-legged. The way these Turks sit cross- 
 legged and read the Koran during business hours is 
 totally unlike any thing an American sees at home ; 
 oblivious to all but his book, till his goods are called for, 
 then he shows the greatest anxiety to trade. Their ba- 
 zaars have sections for certain kinds of goods, each 
 consisting of many stores, calico merchants, silk merch- 
 ants, tobacco nargeleh (or pipe) merchants, etc., with 
 some good French and Jew stores. 
 
 The London Daily News, 1890, gives the following in- 
 teresting facts and figures about Smyrna : 
 
 "According to Consul-General Holmwood's report the popu- 
 lation numbers 210,850. But of this total only 52,000 are Mo- 
 hammedans. The Mohammedans are largely outnumbered by 
 the Greeks, who count 62,000, exclusive of 45,000 "Greek sub- 
 jects." The railways are wholly under British management 
 and have been constructed by British capital. The gas-lighting 
 of Smyrna is the work of a British company ; but — and here 
 
223 
 
 comes the ironv of the situation— 'the municipality of Smyrna is 
 at present wholly composed of Ottoman suhjects.' To sum up 
 the position, Smyrna is, as far as population goes, a Greek city ; 
 as far as public works with their capital outlay are concerned, 
 an English city ; but as regards government, a Turkish city. 
 The Turk is the incubus. As a commercial port Smyrna the 
 Beautiful has several great advantages over Constantinople, but 
 so lona as the Turk blocks the way the vast development of 
 which'smyrna is capable will be retarded. It is the same all 
 over tie Mediterranean and Black sea coasts. Wherever there 
 is progress the Greek is at the bottom of it." 
 
 The population is heterogeneous, consisting of Turks, 
 Greeks, French, British, Jews, etc. The Greeks are 
 very much like the Jews in appearance. The houses, 
 which are jammed together too close to allow of a yard 
 or garden, or even a street wide enough for a vehicle, 
 often are supplied on the upper or second story with a 
 projecting balcony or box with glass windows on all 
 sides, called masharobeahs, which are often latticed. In 
 these the ladies sit to witness life on the streets below. 
 
 I attended services at the English church on Sunday, 
 and at the Sailors' Bethel, called Smyrna Rest," Sunday 
 night, when Dr. Buckley preached to a small band of 
 sailors, and I gave a short talk and prayer. 
 
 Protestantism meets with the most violent opposition 
 here, both from the Greeks and Mahometans. The 
 American mission, however, has a good church and two 
 good schools. I met one missionary, rather an aged 
 man; he was hopeful of final results. One good thing 
 in Smyrna attracted our notice— their observance of the 
 Sabbath day. All shops were shut except restaurants 
 and cafes. We also saw a policeman arrest a vender of 
 green fruit (almonds I believe) as if they had some re- 
 gard for the health of the people. 
 
224 
 
 The English Church has in large letters above the 
 pulpit the following : 
 
 " Be thou faithful unto death and I will give thee a 
 crown of life^ 
 
 In the following is the only reference to Smyrna in 
 Ihe Bible, and that is by our Lord : 
 
 "I know thy works, and tribulation, and poverty, (but 
 thou art rich) and I know the blasphemy of them which 
 say they are Jews, and are not, but are the synagogue of 
 Satan. Fear none of those things which thou shalt 
 suffer : behold, the devil shall cast some of you into 
 prison, that ye ma}^ be tried : and ye shall have tribula- 
 tion ten days: be thou faithful unto death, and I will 
 give thee a crown of life. He that hath an ear, let him 
 hear w^hat the spirit saith unto the churches : He that 
 overcometh shall not be hurt of the second death." — 
 Rev. 2: 9-11. 
 
 Smyrna contained one of the seven churches, whose 
 site is still shown. It is a very ancient city, though 
 many think the original city was some miles aw^ay. 
 The present one was built or rebuilt by the order of 
 Alexander the Great, in consequence of a vision he had 
 on Mt. Pagus, by Antigones and Lysimachus, after his 
 death. I went up on Mt. Pagus for the view. In as- 
 cending we passed the tomb of Polycarp, a disciple of 
 John, and by some believed to have been the "angel o^ 
 the church in Smyrna." On the summit or acropolis 
 is an old fort in a fair state of preservation, though not 
 dating prior to mediaeval times ; in this is said to be 
 remains of the old church or mosque in which Polycarp 
 preached. We are now about 500 or 600 feet above the 
 sea, and behold a splendid panorama. The quiet city 
 at our feet, beyond, the bay with every variety of boats, 
 
225 
 
 from the trim caik to the great ocean-going iron-clad, 
 and far and near many a suburban village nestles be- 
 tween the mountains and the sea. Farther out are the 
 islands of the Grecian Archipelago. Just here, on the 
 mountain side, is the old theater, its proscenium all torn 
 away to build garden walls or pave the streets, its shape 
 scarcely discernible, where 2,000 years ago the tragedies 
 of Sophocles and the Comedies of Aristophanes delight- 
 ed the airy minds of the Greek populace, and where, 
 nearly 1800 years ago, Polycarp was sacrificed to make 
 a holiday sensation. When the Pro-consul said: "Blas- 
 pheme Christ and I will release you, he replied: "Eighty 
 and six years I have served him, and he hath never 
 wronged me;- how then can I blaspheme my king who 
 hath saved me." We look towards the interior; how 
 splendid ! There is the caravan bridge, and the ceme- 
 teries above which wave graceful cypresses; there are 
 the country roads wu:iding their tortuous way for many 
 a mile until lost behind the hills, and the railways with 
 trains hurrying on with western ideas for this slug- 
 gish people ; in the background a re the many mountains 
 where nymphs and Goddesses were born, and the spirits 
 of poesy and song emanated to immortalize their favor- 
 ite offspring. It seemed as if there lingered still the 
 enchantment known to nature's sons. 
 
 I descended to go to Ephesus, that I might see more 
 of this inexhaustible and lovely country, so miserably 
 managed under Moslem rule. 
 
 Our Consul said it would be only a waste of time and 
 money to go to Ephesus — that all who went came back 
 disappointed ; but some people have a way of their own ; 
 such composed our party. At the station I met Rev. 
 Mr. Mills, President of Earlham College. We two failed 
 
226 
 
 to telegraph for horses, which Drs. Buckle}' and Bancroft 
 and Bishop Fowler were careful to do. But we were 
 well, while several of their part}" were not. I recently 
 received the following from Dr. Mills : 
 
 "My Dear Sir: Your letter recalls to my memory our ex- 
 ceedingly pleasant acquaintance in the East last spring. 
 
 "That journey to Ephesus and back, and our rambles in 
 Athens I Ah, those were experiences worth living over a thou- 
 sand times. 
 
 "I have just last week received three cases of Syrian objects, 
 including a plow, yoke and goad, a mill, &c. &c. 
 "Yours, Fraternallv, 
 
 J. J. Mills." 
 
 The site of Ephesus is half a mile to a mile and a 
 half from Ayasolook, the railway station, and forty- 
 nine miles from Smyrna. It lay on all sides of the 
 small mountain, Prion, and at the foot of a larger one,. 
 Mt. Coressus, separated by a valley about 500 feet wide. 
 In this valley, and on the side of Prion next to Coressus, 
 south, was one of their gymnasiums, the walls of which 
 are still in situ, and near the gymnasium the Magnesian 
 gate, through which on May 25th of each year proces- 
 sions bearing the image of Artemis came from the Tem- 
 ple of Diana along the Via Sacra, and at which they 
 were met by Ephebi, or young men of the city, and so- 
 were led to the theater, and afterwards to the Corresian 
 gate, whence they returned to the Temple, having pass- 
 ed through the main streets of the city, and entirely 
 around Mt. Prion ; it was by locating the gates and 
 tracing the course of the streets leading from them that 
 Wood (1869) discovered the long lost, and until then 
 vainly sought temple of Diana. Philostratus says a 
 covered way led from the Magnesian gate to the temple. 
 
227 
 
 Going south from the Magnesian gate we pass the Ba- 
 silica, of Roman production, the agora or wool market, 
 the Odeon, or Lyric theater. 
 
 This is built on the South side of Prion, the natural 
 incline of the hill serving for the elevation of the seats. 
 The front is 153 feet in diameter, and it is estimated to 
 have had a seating capacity of about 2300. Wood, who 
 exhumed the buried city, found here the statue of Lucius 
 Verus, now in the British Museum, and a life-size statue 
 of the muse Erato, with a 7 -stringed lyre and a pedestal 
 at her side. All the interior of the Odeon was white 
 marble, vast amounts of which are scattered all around; 
 the door-posts and many seats are still in their original 
 position. A little farther on towards the south we pass- 
 ed another market place, and still farther on the west 
 side of the mountain is the great Theater, which is of 
 so much interest because of its connection with the his- 
 tory of St. Paul. We walked about through the vast 
 but wasted place, and while we endeavored to recall in 
 imagination the ancient splendor of the pile and the 
 excited people, who "rushed with one accord into the 
 Theater," I took out my Bible and read the account of 
 the excitement stirred up by Demetrius, who made silver 
 shrines of the goddess and who brought great gains to 
 the craftsmen making and selling the same — saying: 
 "Sirs ye know that by this craft we have our wealth. 
 Moreover ye see and hear that not alone at Ephesus, but 
 almost throughout all Asia, this Paul hath persuaded 
 and turned away much people, saying that they be no 
 gods, which are made with hands : So that not only this 
 our craft is in danger to be set at naught, but also that 
 the temple of the great goddess Diana should be despised 
 and her magnificence should be destroyed, whom all Asia 
 
228 
 
 .and the world worshippeth. And when they heard these 
 sayings they were full of wa'ath and cried out, saying, 
 Great is Diana of the Ephesians. And the whole city 
 was filled with confusion : and having caught Gaius and 
 Aristarchus, men of Macedonia, Paul's companions in 
 travel, they rushed with one accord into the theatre. 
 And when Paul would have entered in unto the people, 
 the disciples suffered him not. And certain of the chief 
 • of Asia, which were his friends, sent unto him, desring 
 himth'dt he would not adventure himself into the theatre. 
 Some therefore cried one thing and some another: for 
 the assembly was confused ; and the more part knew not 
 w^herefore they were come together. And they drew 
 Alexander out of the multitude, the Jews putting him 
 forward. And Alexander beckoned with the hand, and 
 would have made his defence unto ^he people. But 
 Avhen they knew^ that he was a Jew, all with one voice 
 ..about the space of two hours cried out. Great ^6' Diana 
 ■of the Ephesians. And when the townclerk had ap- 
 peased the people, he said, Ye men of Ephesus, what 
 man is there that knoweth not how that the city of the 
 Ephesians is a w^orshipper of the great goddess Diana, 
 .and of the i aage which fell down from Jupiter ? Seeing 
 then that these things cannot be spoken against, ye ought 
 to be quiet, and to do nothing rashly. For ye have 
 brought hither these men, which are neither robbers of 
 churches, nor yet blasphemers of your goddess. Where- 
 fore if Demetrius, and the craftsmen which are with 
 him, have a matter against any man, the law is open, 
 .and there are deputies : let them implead one another. 
 But if ye inquire any thing concerning other matters, it 
 .shall be determined in a lawful assembly. For we are 
 in danger to be called in question for this day's uproar, 
 
229 
 
 there being no cause whereby we may give an account of 
 this concourse. And when he had thus spoken he dis- 
 missed the assembly." — Acts 19 : 25-41. 
 
 This theater is in the shape of a horse-shoe, and is 495^ 
 by 467 feet through the two greatest diameters. It is 
 variously estimated to have held from 25,000 to 60,000 
 people. Like the Odeon, itis also on the hill side. The 
 front and gates were of marble, carved into figures of 
 exquisite beauty. This was repaired after the temple 
 had been destroyed, as shown by many decrees passed 
 and carved on the stones of the building, one of which 
 gives citizenship to Agathocles in consequence of his 
 giving the city 14,000 measures of corn. One is a de- 
 cree of Hadrian, A. D. 120. 
 
 Evidently this theater, or some similar one, suggested 
 the idea of the Colosseum to Vespasian. In front of the 
 theater are the Agora and the great gymnasium, while a 
 few miles west we look out upon the sea. On the north 
 side of Prion is the Stadium of the Augustinian age, 
 similar to that of Antioch, where Ben Hur, Aldebaran, 
 Atair, Antares and Rigel made themselves to be sung by 
 the women and children in the tents, because of victory 
 over the insolent Eoman. We try to find the seat where 
 poor Simonides and Esther would have sat to look upon 
 the exciting scene; to fix the place where the unfortu- 
 nate Messala was crushed to the wall, and fill the great 
 area, nearly one thousand feet long, with excited specta- 
 tors. 
 
 The west end was adorned by an open columniated 
 screen in tiers. The bases of some of the supporting 
 columns are still to be seen. In front of the Stadium, 
 to the west, is the Serapion, where oiferings were made 
 to Serapis. It is elevated about fifty feet above the race 
 
230 
 
 •course of the Stadium and covers about two hundred 
 and fifty square feet ; in the center is a hewn rock foun- 
 dation containing an altar, reached by four flights of 
 steps and three piers for columns between each flight. 
 
 Passing out by where once stood the Corresian gate, a 
 little north of the Stadium, the principal street led to 
 the Temple of Diana or Artemis, about one mile north 
 of Prion. On the east of Prion is the cave of the Seven 
 Sleepers and many Christian tombs. We now cross the 
 fertile plain and the Cayster, formerly much larger than 
 at present, and come upon the site of one of the seven 
 wonders of the world, until 1869 concealed from human 
 eyes by twenty feet of siltings, the world-renowned Tem- 
 ple of Diana ; the stoa or platform covered eight acres, 
 and rested on a bed of charcoal, between layers of mor- 
 tar, charcoal and skins. This served the double purpose 
 of diminishing moisture about the base and danger of 
 destruction by earthquakes. The temple was seven times 
 destroyed, and rebuilt always upon the same foundation. 
 The last but one, which Pliny says was 220 years in build- 
 ing, was burned by Herostratus, who had despaired of 
 making a great name by fair means, and thought to im- 
 mortalize himself as an iconoclast. 
 
 The city fell into the hands of Alexander the Great 
 before the last temple was finished; the previous one was 
 burnt on the night of his birth. He offered to complete 
 it at his own expense if the Ephesian City Magnates 
 would allow his picture to be placed in it, but they re- 
 fused by the flattering but evasive reply that it was not 
 fitting that one God should pay homage to another. We 
 copy some of the dimensions of this wonderful structure. 
 On the lowest step it measured 418 feet by 239 feet 4 J 
 inches. The pavement of the peristyle was 9^ feet above 
 
231 
 
 the street and reached by 14 steps 19 inches wide in the 
 tread. The temple itself was 312 feet Qi inches by 163 
 feet 9 J inches, and was octastyle, i. e. with 8 columns in 
 front, and dipteral, i. e. with two rows of columns on the 
 sides. These were in rows of 20 each, one hundred 
 columns in all (27 of them the gifts of Kings) of the 
 Ionic order, measuring 6 feet J inch at the base and 8 ^ 
 diameters in height, making them, base, capital and all, 
 about 60 feet high. We saw great quantities of the 
 ruins — many drums — of these columns scattered about. 
 The parts of the Temple were called Pronaos, or porch 
 in front, the vestibule, cella, or large chamber, at the 
 end of which was the altar for sacrifices ; beyond the 
 altar was the statue of the goddess, then a room called 
 Opisthodomos, the treasury, and the Posticum or porch 
 on the rear, corresponding to the Pronaos on the front. 
 (Some of these temples that we have visited are very sug- 
 gestive of the human nature of the deities inhabiting 
 them, notably that of Denderah.) 
 
 " Ephesus was the third capitol and starting point of Christi- 
 anity, Jerusalem and Antioch being the other two. Ephesus 
 witnessed its full development and the final amalgamation of 
 its inconsolidated elements in the work of John, the Apostle of 
 Love. It lay one mile from the Icarian Sea, in the fair Asian 
 meadow, where myriads of swan and other waterfowl disported 
 themselves amid the windings of Cayster. Its buildings were 
 in the delightful neighborhood of the Ortygian Groves. Its 
 haven, once the most sheltered and commodious in the Medi- 
 terranean, had been silted up by mistakes in engineering, but 
 was still thronged with vessel* from every part of the civilized 
 world. It lay at the meeting point of great roads from Sardis, 
 Troas, Magnesia and Antioch, thus commanding access to the 
 valleys of Hermus and Meander and the interior. Its seas 
 and rivers were rich with fish ; its air was salubrious ; its posit- 
 ion unrivalled ; its population multifarious and immense. Its 
 
232 
 
 markets glittering with the produce of the world's art, were the 
 Vanity Fair of Asia. They furnished to the exile of Patmos the 
 local coloring of those pages of the Apocalypse in which he 
 speaks of "the merchandise of gold, and silver, and precious 
 stones, and of pearls, and fine linen, and purple, and silk, and 
 scarlet, and all thyine wood, and all manner vessels of precious 
 wood, and of brass, and iron, and marble, and cinnamon, and 
 odors, and ointment, and francincense, and wine, and oil, and 
 fine flour, and wheat, and beasts, and sheep, and horses, and 
 chariots, and slaves, and souls of men.'' Rev. 17: 12, 13. 
 
 And Ephesus was no less famous than it was vast and wealthy. 
 Perhaps no region of the world has been the scene of so many 
 memorable events in ancient history as the shores of Asia 
 Minor. The whole coast was in all respects the home of the 
 best Helenic culture, and Herodotus declares that it was the 
 finest site for cities in the world of his day. It was from Les- 
 bos and Smyrna and Ephesus and Halicarnassus that lyric and 
 epic poetry and philosophy and history took their rise. It was 
 here that Anacreon had sung the light songs which so thorough- 
 ly suited the light temperament ot the Greek colonists in that 
 luxurious air ; here that Mimnermos had written his elegies ; 
 here that Thales had given the first impulse to philosophy ; 
 here that Anaximander and Anaximines had learned to inter- 
 est themselves in those cosmogonic theories which shocked the 
 simple beliefs of the Athenian burghers ; here that the deepest 
 of all Greek thinkers, "Heraclitus the Dark," had meditated on 
 those truths which he uttered in language of such incomparable 
 force ; here that his friend Hermodorus had paid the penalty of 
 virtue by being exiled from a city which felt that its yices were 
 rebuked by his mere silent presence ; here that Hipponax had 
 infused into his satire such deadly venom ; here that Parrhasius 
 and Apelles had studied their immortal art. And it was still 
 essentially a Greek city. . . . While the presence of a few 
 noble Romans and their suites added to the gaiety and power 
 of the city, it did not aff'ect the prevailing Hellenic cast of its 
 civilization, which was far more deeply imbued with Oriental 
 than with Western influences, ^ch was the city in M'hich St. 
 Paul found a sphere of work unlike any in which he had hith- 
 erto labored. It was more Hellenic than Antioch, more Orien- 
 tal than Corinth, more popular than Athens and more wealthy 
 and more refined than Thessalonica, more sceptical and more 
 superstitious than Ancyra or Pessinus. It was, with the excep- 
 
233 
 
 tion of Rome, by far the most important scene of all his toils, 
 and was destined in after years to become not only the ^rst of 
 the Seven Churches of Asia, but the seat of one of those great 
 <Ecumenical Councils which defined the faith of the Christian 
 world. 
 
 The character of the Ephesians was then in very bad repute. 
 It was the headquarters of many defunct superstitions, which 
 owed their maintenance to the self-interest of various priestly 
 bodies. South of the city was the olive and cypress grove of 
 Leto, where the goddess brought forth her glorious "twin-born 
 progeny." Here was the hill on which Hermes proclaimed 
 their birth ; here ihe Curetes protected their infancy from wild 
 beasts ; here Apollo took refuge from the wrath of Zeus after 
 he had slain the Cyclopes ; here Bacchus had conquered the 
 Amazons during his progress through the East, or so argued 
 Ephesian ambassadors before the Roman Senate when pleading 
 for right of Asylum. Nor did they see that it was a right ruins 
 ous to the morals and well-being of the city. Legend told how,, 
 when the temple was finished Mithridates stood on its summit 
 and declared that the right of asylum should extend around it 
 as far as he could shoot an arrow, and it flew miraculously a 
 furlong's distance. 
 
 The temple, which was the chief glory of the city, and one of 
 the wonders of the world, stood in full view of the crowded 
 haven, the temple was the most splendid ornament of this- 
 most splendid city of Asia. This temple— the eighth— had 
 been rebuilt with ungrudging magnificence out of contributions 
 furnished by all Asia — the very women contributing to it their 
 jewels, as the Jewish women had done of old for the Tabernacle 
 of the Wilderness. It gleamed far oflf with a star-like radiance. 
 Its peristyle consisted of one hundred and twenty pillars of the 
 Ionic order hewn out of Parian marble. Its doors of carved 
 cypress-wood were surmounted by transoms so vast and solid 
 that the aid of miracles was invoked to account for their eleva- 
 tion. The staircase that led to the roof was said to have been 
 cut from a single vine of Cypress. Within were the master- 
 pieces of Praxitiles, and Phidias, and Scopas, Polycletus. Paint- 
 ings by the greatest of Greek artists, of which one— the likeness 
 of Alexander the Great by Apelles — had been bought for a sum 
 equal to $25,000 of modern money, adorned the inner walls. 
 The roof of the temple itself was of cedar-wood, supported by 
 columns of jasper on bases of Parian marble. On these pillars 
 15 
 
234 
 
 hung gifts of priceless value, the votive offerings of grateful su- 
 perstition. At the end of it stood the great altar adorned by the 
 bas-relief, behind which fell the vast folds of a purple cur- 
 tain. Behind this curtain was the dark and awfiil adytum in 
 which stood the most sacred idol of classic heathendom ; and 
 again behind the adytum was the room, which inviolable under 
 divine protection, was regarded as the wealthiest and securest 
 bank in the ancient world. 
 
 The image for which had been reared this incomparable 
 shrine was so ancient that it shared witli the Athene of the 
 Acropolis, the Artemis of Tauris, the Demeter of Sicily, the 
 Aphrodite of Paphos and the Cybele of Pessinus, the honor of 
 being regarded as "an image that fell from heaven." She was 
 represented on coins— which may have easily passed through 
 the hands of Paul — as a figure, swathed like a mummy, covered 
 with monstrous breasts, and holding in one hand a trident and 
 in the other a club. The very ugliness and uncouthness of the 
 idol added to the superstitious awe which it inspired. The 
 Jewish feelings of St. Paul would have made him regard it as 
 pollution to enter her temple ; but he must have seen on coins 
 and paintings and in direct copies the strange image of the 
 great Artemis of the Ephesians, whose worship, like that of so 
 many fairer and more human idols, his preaching would doom 
 to swift oblivion."— i^«rrar's Paul at Ephesus. 
 
 The Goths set fire to this last temple, A. D. 226 aud 
 fhe world's great centers have gone on changing from 
 place to place, until Ephesus, once so magnificent, has 
 so well nigh perished as to be almost forgotten. Once 
 Antony and Cleopatra lived here ; once Alexander beg- 
 ged in vain for honors it might give ; once here was the 
 image that "all Asia and the world worshippeth" en- 
 throned in "marble halls." Here Paul fought with 
 beasts, because of the advantage he should gain by the 
 resurrection of the dead. Here was one of the seven 
 churches to whom John was commissioned to write and 
 say : "I know thy works and thy labor and thy patience, 
 nevertheless I have somewhat against thee, because thou 
 
235 
 
 hast left thy first love." Here was that band of brethren 
 whom Paul "ceased not to warn day and night with 
 tears, by the space of three years," and to whom he after- 
 wards wrote from Rome, by Tychicus, his "most sub- 
 lime" and "majestic" epistle, so full of encouragement, 
 solicitous exhortation and prayer. Some think also from 
 Ephesus was written the first epistle to Corinthians. 
 
 Alas, that all this greatness should perish — that these 
 splendid monuments now should be inhabited only by 
 bats, jackals and serpents — that these columns and 
 gates should be put into mean and useless fences ; yet 
 so it is. 
 
 Still further to the north is an old Castle, built by the 
 Knights of St. John in the 14th and loth centuries ; 
 also a Mohammedan mosque, into which much of the 
 material of the temple was worked. On this side are 
 left standing a few of the pillars of the ancient aqueduct 
 that supplied the city with water. On the tops of these, 
 about 40 feet high, the storks build and rear their young. 
 They were very numerous, tame as chickens, and digni- 
 fied m appearance. 
 
 It was our good fortune to have the best guide procu- 
 rable — Mr. Mills and I — one who was with with Wood 
 in his excavations, 1863-1869, and knew how to guide 
 fairly well. Quite satisfied with our visit, at 4 p. m. we 
 took the cars for Smyrna. The scenery was very fine. 
 To the north was Mt. Tmolus, covered with snow, and 
 on both sides smaller members of the range covered with 
 bright 'angelicas, and the low shrubbery with bursting 
 buds and springing grasses. In one of these hills the 
 myths say Artemis was born, but we did not try to visit 
 her birth-place. 
 
236 
 
 We ran upon a herd of several hundred horses grazing, 
 but they were fearless of the locomotive. We passed 
 msLuy fellahs plowing with the same kind of plows used 
 thousands of years ago. However, they break the land 
 well, about one fourth of an acre per day. To-morrow 
 we shall bid adieu to Asia and sail for Greece. 
 
 The question is often asked : "If Christianity is des- 
 tined to predominate, why have Mussulmen sway in the 
 countries where once Paul preached and Christian church- 
 es stood, which have gone to decay?" It may be said, in 
 reply, that the religion of the Moslem is nearer to the 
 truth than either the ancient Greek or Roman paganisms 
 which prevailed in those countries referred to, and the 
 true religion has more protection now in those places 
 than it then had. Besides, the aggressive force of Chris- 
 tianity has been expended in other directions rather than 
 at those places where it began to manifest itself. Per- 
 haps few if any of those places have grown worse since 
 Paul's day. Many of them have grown better. It is 
 true, as Carlisle says in his Hero-worship : The good of 
 the old is retained until it is absorbed by and recast in 
 the new. 
 
CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 FROM ASIA TO GREECE. 
 
 "Immortal Greece— dear land of glorious lays, 
 
 Lo here tlie unknown God of thine unconscious praise."— AV^/^. 
 
 We left Smyrna for Athens on a stormy sea, that grew 
 more boisterous every mile we advanced, and only three 
 of our number were comfortable on deck, of whom I 
 was one, and proud to think myself able to defy, at last, 
 the Mediterranean's worst. We pass on the route the 
 temple of Minerva Sunium, situated on a high, rocky 
 promontory overlooking the sea. Out of sight of hu- 
 man dwellings, it is a magnificent ruin, standing, like 
 "the lone Indian," a sentinel over the land whose glory 
 has departed, and the seas where that glory was largely 
 won. For an hour before reaching the harbor Athens 
 was in view — not the city proper, but portions of it — 
 and the Acropolis stood out in bold relief against the 
 April sky. All glasses were brought into requisition. 
 And we quote Archdeacon Farrar to portray the thoughts 
 and feelings then filling our minds : 
 
 "Athens! with what a thrill of delight has many a modern 
 traveler been filled as, for the first time, he stepped upon that 
 classic land I As he approached the Acropolis what a throng of 
 brilliant scenes has passed across his memory ; what processions 
 of grand and heroic and beautiful figures have swept across the 
 stage of his imagination ! As he treads upon Attic ground he is 
 in 'the Holy Land of the Ideal ;' he has reached the most sacred 
 shrine of the 'fair humanities' of paganism. It was at Athens 
 
238 
 
 that the human form, sedulously trained, attained its most ex- 
 quisite and winning beauty ; there that human freedom put 
 forth its most splendid power ; there that human intellect dis- 
 played its utmost subtlety and grace ; there that Art reached to 
 its most consummate perfection ; there that Poetry uttered alike 
 its sweetest and sublimest strains ; there that Philosophy at- 
 tuned to the most perfect music of human expression its loftiest 
 and deepest thoughts. Had it been possible for the world by 
 its own wisdom to know God ; had it been in the power of man 
 to turn into bread the stones of the wilderness ; had perfect 
 happiness lain within the grasp of sense, or been among the re- 
 wards of culture ; had it been granted to man's unaided power 
 to win salvation by the gifts and power of his own nature, and 
 to make for himself a new Paradise in lieu of that lost Eden 
 before whose gate still waves the fiery sword of the Cherubim- 
 then such ends would have been achieved at Athens in the day 
 of her glory. No one who has been nurtured in thf^ glorious 
 lore of that gay and radiant city, and has owed some of his best 
 training to the hours spent in reading the history and mastering 
 the literature of its many noble sons, can ever visit it without 
 deep emotions of gratitude, interest and love." 
 
 The topography of the sea and land required us to 
 steam by the city in order to come into port. At 11 a. 
 M. we reached Piraeus, the harbor of Athens, filled with 
 the crafts of all nations. Four miles to the northeast is 
 Athens with 75,000 inhabitants. Some of us go up in 
 carriages, some on the cars. 
 
 The first impression made on the mind is relief at the 
 yast improvement upon the populations of Egypt, Palestine 
 and Asia Minor, in the dwellings, manners and clothing 
 of the people. Business is conducted much as I had been 
 used to at home; the streets w^ere clean, the buildings 
 tasteful, and life, energy and snap greeted us at every 
 turn. I and President Mills hire a guide to conduct us 
 to the sights of Athens of yore. We go first to the 
 Temple of Theseus, who made himself immortal on the 
 field of Marathon before the haughty Persian was van- 
 
239 
 
 qnished there ; to whom was ascribed the honor of uniting 
 into one commonwealth the twelve States into which 
 Cecrops divided Attica, after destroying the Minotaur of 
 Minos, who required a tribute of fourteen youths and 
 maidens to be sent every nine years from Athens for the 
 monster to devour. The national hero of the Greeks, 
 they erected this temple to receive his bones which Cimon 
 brought from Scyros, B. C. 469, and it became a tomb, 
 a temple and an asylum all in one, and while one of the 
 earliest works of ancient Athens, it is the best preserved ; 
 104x45 feet, having a peristyle of Doric columns, it 
 served as a model for the advanced age and national 
 prosperity that produced the Parthenon under Pericles, 
 the first of Grecian statesmen, and Phidias, the first of 
 cdl sculptors. We then went to the so-called prison of 
 Socrates, where he is said to have drunk the fatal cup of 
 hemlock. It is only traditional, and forever beyond tho 
 reach of certainty, but certainly every indication favors, 
 the tradition. 
 
 It is a cave, divided into two rooms, cut into the solid 
 stone, the first cave or room faces the Acropolis, and is 
 entered by a door of about ordinary size ; the second one, 
 in which the sage was confined, is entered from the first 
 by a narrow door on the back side and near the right 
 corner. We go next to Areopagus or Mars' Hill. It is. 
 reached by sixteen steps which though cut in the solid 
 stone are nearly worn out, one or two being gone entirely, 
 A few places cut smooth on the top point out, it is 
 thought, where the accuser and accused stood in trials 
 held here; the Council that met here was called the 
 Upper Council, the one meeting in the valley being 
 called the Council of Five Hundred, Its name is derived 
 
240 
 
 from the double name of Mars and Ares. He was tried 
 on this hill, for the murder of Neptune's son, by the 
 gods and the place has since been called Areopagus or 
 Mars' Hill! It lies to the west of and one hundred feet 
 below the Acropolis and is separated from it by a valley, 
 ivhich has largely been filled up by the accumulation of 
 rubbish for many centuries. We regreted that we could 
 not stay and attend the service to be held there the day 
 after our departure, held there because of what is written 
 in Acts 17: 
 
 Then Paul stood in the midst of Mars' hill, and said, Ye men 
 of Athens, I perceive that in all things ye are too superstitious. 
 For as I passed by, and beheld your devotions, I found an altar 
 with this inscription, TO THE UNKNOWN GOD. Whom 
 therefore ye ignorantly worship, him declare I unto you. God 
 that made the world and all things therein, seeing that he is 
 Lord of heaven and earth, dwelleth not in temples made with 
 hands ; neither is worshipped with men's hands, as though he 
 needed anything, seeing he giveth to all life, and breath, and 
 all things : and hath made of one blood all nations of men for to 
 dwell on all the face of the earth, and hath determined the 
 times before appointed, and the bounds of their habitation; 
 that they should seek the Lord, if haply they might feel after 
 him and find him, though he be not far from every one of us: for 
 in him we live, and move and have our being; as certain also of 
 your own poets have said. For we are also his offspring. Foras- 
 piuch then as we are the offspring of God, we ought not to think 
 that the Godhead is like unto gold, or silver, or stone, graven by 
 .art and man's device. And the times of this ignorance God 
 winked at; but now commandeth all men everywhere to repent: 
 because he hath appointed a day in the which he will judge the 
 world in righteousness by thcU man whom he hath ordained ; 
 whereof he hath j^iven assurance unto all men, in that he hath 
 raised him from the dead. 
 
 And when they heard of the resurrection of the dead some 
 mocked : and others said. We will hear thee again of this matter. 
 So Paul departed from among them. Howbeit certain men 
 clave unto him, and believed : among the which was Dionysius 
 
241 
 
 the Areopagite, and a woman named Damaris, and others with 
 them. 
 
 Vandalism has well nigh done its worst in Athens. 
 Only think of demolishing the temples that were not 
 only the pride and glory of Athens at her acme of 
 greatness but the production of architectural genius 
 unrivalled in any age, for material with which to shelter 
 an ignoble race, too lazy to go to the quarries, or of 
 taking the columns that formed the supports of the roof 
 or architraves of the temples of Jove or Minerva, and 
 use them for burning lime kilns, and we have a sample 
 •of what has been going on for centuries, and an answ^er 
 to the question, why are there not more of the remains of 
 ancient Athens ? Renan, the sceptic, insinuates that the 
 works of art in Athens perished because St Paul called 
 them idols. He writes: 
 
 " Ah beautiful and chaste images ; true gods and true god- 
 desses, tremble! The mistakes of this ugly little Jew (St Paul) 
 will be your death-warrant." 
 
 It was their death-warrant as gods, but only as gods. 
 
 " We have learned to see God in all that is refined and 
 heautiful; whom his love has lifted up above the perils of an 
 extinct paganism ; whom His own word has taught to recognize 
 sunbeams from the Fountain of Light in every grade of true 
 ^rt and every glow of poetic inspiration may thankfully admire 
 the exquisite creations of ancient genius : — but had Paul done 
 so, he could not have been the Paul that he was." — Farrar. 
 
 The thought occurs that only by searching for the di- 
 vine are such productions obtained, only by uplift of 
 soul and outstretching of his powers toward his God, do 
 man's capacities fully develop in any sphere of life. 
 
 The second day we visited the Acropolis, the elevated 
 rock upon which Cecrops began to build Athens 1550 B. 
 
242 
 
 ■O. It is a nearly level area, about one thousand feet from 
 east to west by half that distance from north to south. 
 It was fancifully said to be the center of four concentric 
 circles, viz.: Athens the city, Attica, Greece, the world. 
 It is entered only through the propylea, on the west, 
 the finest ever built, executed under the direction of 
 Pericles, and though much abused by the unappreciative 
 rulers that haye dominated Greece for many centuries^ 
 and the ineyitable friction of rolling years, the mind 
 easily rebuilds the abused but still graceful structure,, 
 and rejoices in contemplation of what it once was, while 
 we 
 
 " Sigh for the touch of a vanished hand 
 And voices hushed in death forever." 
 
 We pass the great Propylea and stand on soil pressed 
 by some of the greatest men of antiquity. Just to the 
 right of the gate, Lord Byron is supposed to have sat as 
 he wrote the following lines : 
 
 " Slow sinks, more lovely ere his race he run 
 Along Morea's hills, the setting sun ; 
 Not, as in northern climes, obscurely bright, 
 But one unclouded blaze of living light! 
 O'er the hush'd deep the yellow beam he throws. 
 Gilds the green wave that trembles as it glows. 
 On old Aegina's rock, and Idra's isle. 
 The god of gladness sheds his parting smile. 
 O'er his own regions lingering, loves to shine. 
 Though there his altars are no more divine 
 Descending fast the mountain shadows kiss 
 Thy glorious gulf, unconquer'd Salamis! 
 Their azure arches through the long expanse 
 More deeply purpled meet his mellowing glance, 
 And tendered tints, along their summits driven, 
 Mark his gay course and own the hues of heaven 
 Till, darkly shaded from the land and deep. 
 Behind the Delphian cliff he sinks to sleep." 
 
 Here they concentrated their thoughts, their genius' 
 and wealth for the glory and p'rotection of their nation. 
 
244 
 
 On this area were to be found many templee erected in 
 honor of their gods and goddesses, the chief of which was 
 Minerva or Athena, in w^hose honor three images arose 
 and the two grandest of their temples. The irregular 
 Erectheum and the Parthenon both contained images of 
 Jove's virgin daughter. The Parthenon, 228 feet long 
 by 101 feet wide, which contained her statue, 39 feet 
 high, the work of Phidias and made of ivory and gold, 
 covered with gold ornaments to the amount of nearly 
 half a million dollars, presented in its Doric columns, 
 metopes and fretted frieze not only the best study of 
 architecture, but the righest museum of sculpture and 
 choicest collection of paintings in all the world: "ded- 
 icated to the national glory and the worship of the gods." 
 
 The Venitians bombarding the Turks in the 17th cen- 
 tury, set fire to a powder magazine on the south side of 
 the Parthenon, and well nigh demolished this temple. 
 The columns on the west end present many indentations 
 made by bombs and grape shot. May we not hope that 
 a perpetual peace has settled upon the Acropolis at last? 
 
 The present King, George, has shown a praiseworthy 
 disposition to exhume and preserve whatever relics still 
 remain undiscovered. He has had a museum fitted up 
 in the rear of the Parthenon for the reception of such 
 relics as have been recently found, or may be, and had 
 the ancient Stadium excavated a year or two since at his 
 own expense. 
 
 We went through the museum and was distressed at 
 the paucity of the remains that greeted our eyes. We 
 visited the Acropolis on three successive days, with the 
 same sense of admiration for the Greeks of the perisha- 
 bility of all earthly productions, though they may be 
 marblf^ or brass, of the truth of the poet's words that 
 
245 
 
 "He builds too low who builds beueath the skies," and 
 of the Scripture that saith "Except the Lord build the 
 house they labor in vain who build it." 
 
 The atmosphere seemed to be charged with a sombre 
 enchantment, and a solemn grandeur shrouded the six- 
 teen remaining columns of the once magnificent temple 
 of the Olympian Zeus, where century after century the 
 patient destroyer has beat his silent vigils. 
 
 The Odeon, or Theatre of Herod, is still to be seen on 
 the south side, below the Acropolis, and east of this the 
 Theatre of Dionysius, with the seat of Dionysius, in 
 which we sat. It is one piece of marble with rests like an. 
 arm chair, and his name is carved on the front of it in 
 Greek. These theatres were for the enactment of tra- 
 gedies, recitations of poems, etc. The seats were of 
 stone or marble and were arranged in semi-circular re- 
 ceding tiers, one above another. 
 
 There was a pedagogue surrounded by about fifty or 
 sixty young men and boys standing at the entrance of 
 this theatre, and our guide said (for though I had read 
 Greek at school, I could not understand a word he spoke), 
 he was lecturing on the political history of Greece, and 
 striving to arouse their patriotic impulses by speaking to 
 them amid the ruins of better times. He would point 
 to the Acropolis above, the theatre in front, the country 
 or battle-fields in the distance, and was animated in hi& 
 delivery and interesting to his audience. I was reminded 
 of the old peripatetics of whom I read when a boy. 
 
 Other objects of which I may not speak at large but 
 which we could not afford to slight, were the temple of 
 Nike, or the Wingless Victory, at the threshold of the 
 Acropolis, Tower of the Winds, Stadium, the Gate of 
 
246 
 
 Hadrian, on the west side of which an inscription says: 
 This is the city of Theseus." One on the east side says: 
 This is the city of Hadrian, and not of Theseus. Ha- 
 drian built the city east of the Agora or market place, 
 where St. Paul disputed "daily with them that met with 
 him." 
 
 While we were in Athens an officer of the army died. 
 The pall-bearers carried him through the streets in a 
 coffin, the upper part of w^hich was removed, exposing 
 the profile of the corpse to persons on either side of the 
 street. 
 
CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 AMONGST SAVANTS. 
 
 The morning of April 12th was somewhat threatening ; 
 several watery looking clouds were floating through the 
 skies not very high above the Capitol city of Greece. 
 The train was due to leave the station for Peloponnesus 
 at 7 o'clock. On the previous evening, seven of us met 
 in the parlor of the Hotel D'Estrangers, where all were 
 stopping except myself, I being at the Hotel of the 
 Ionian Islands, two squares away, and arranged with a 
 guide to visit Corinth by the early train. The distance 
 was three hours, and we had six hours in which to do 
 old Corinth and the Acro-Corinthus, which was the chief 
 object of our visit. 
 
 Five of our company were preachers, four of these 
 D. D's.; five were Americans ; two were college Presi- 
 dents; the two who were not ministers were Sunday 
 school teachers. 
 
 Soon after starting we passed a hillock to the left, 
 which our guide called the Academy of Socrates, a little 
 farther on, to the right, the place where Plato's Academy 
 was, or his garden which he inherited and in which he 
 is said, by Diogenes, to have taught, as well as in the 
 Academy. Near by our guide pointed out the birth- 
 place of Miltiades and the plain in which the first cereals, 
 given by the goddess Ceres for the rescue of her daugh- 
 ter, Proserpine, were planted. They chose a good place 
 to begin at, as the soil is still very fertile after continued 
 
248 
 
 cultivation for more than twenty-five centuries. It is a 
 dark red clay and had a fine crop of wheat or barley 
 growing on it during our journey. There were a great 
 many poppies in full bloom, mingled with the wheat, 
 which, however, some of our company, better versed in 
 Botany than myself, contended were not poppies, but 
 anemones, or something else. 
 
 It is in the same locality in which the Greeks claim 
 the first Olive tree was planted on earth ; they still 
 abound. 
 
 Our first stopping place was Eleusis, once powerful 
 enough to contend with Athens for the sovereignty of 
 Attica, and more ancient than Athens or even Ceres 
 whom they worshipped, whose temple the Persians de- 
 stroyed when they invaded Attica, but which was re- 
 built by Ictines the architect of the Parthenon under 
 Pericles, but to be again demolished by the German van- 
 dal Alaric, A. D. 395. Its • shattered walls stand on a 
 rocky knoli, about two minutes walk from the station, 
 in the midst of a people who seem not only to have no 
 pride at remembrance of the glory attained by their an- 
 cestors, but not even the remembrance of that glory or 
 even conception of it ; " no heritage of the past remains 
 but monuments, decrepitude and corruption ;" 
 
 " All except their sun is set." 
 
 The road winds around the bay of Eleusis, then the 
 gulf of iEgina filled with small islands. We saw hun- 
 dreds of birds floating on the surface seeming to be 
 feeding on the small fishes just below the surface. 
 
 The hillsides are covered with worthless, scrubby 
 pines, a few feet high, besides which we saw no timber 
 at all. We passed over the Corinthian Isthmus where 
 
249 
 
 many centuries B. C. the Isthmian games were cele- 
 brated, through whicli man}^ rulers vainly sought to cut 
 a channel large enough for the passage of vessels. 
 Among those wishing thus to unite the Saronic and 
 Corinthian gulfs were three of the Caesars and Alexan- 
 der the Great, and previous to them Diodorus Polior- 
 cetes, who abandoned his purpose because he found he 
 would inundate the country on the Saronic gulf! How- 
 ever, the moderns have found out the error of Demetrius 
 and will soon have the two seas flowing together, and 
 Peloponnesus will be an island. The canal is cut 
 through the stone most of the way, and is one or two 
 hundred feet deep in several places, judging from what 
 I could see from the cars as we crossed. 
 
 How strange to think, as we looked upon the rougb. 
 ground between the two seas, almost five miles apart- 
 that the Greeks used to draw their vessels from one tO' 
 the other overland ! However, that was previous to the 
 days of ironclads and the Great Eastern. We stopped! 
 at Corinth Station, near to or within the old city limits,, 
 but about six miles from the citadel, Acro-Corinthus. 
 
 We took carnages and rode to a small village of half 
 
 a dozen dwellings, passing on the route several places 
 
 paved with smooth stones and circular in shape, about 
 
 one hundred feet in diameter. It was probably on one 
 
 of these that the "sweet Gallio" had his "judgment seat'^ 
 
 when the Jews made "insurrection with one accord 
 
 against Paul" saying, "This fellow persuadeth men to 
 
 worship God contrary to the law." A matter of so small 
 
 concern to him that he drove them from his presence- 
 
 and looked with indifference on, while they beat Sosthe- 
 
 nes, their chief To-day hundreds of millions could be 
 
 enlisted in defense of Paul's attitude, then " no man 
 16 
 
250 
 
 stood by him." Gallio, the Roman Proconsul gave not 
 a thought to the creed of Paul or of the other Hebrews. 
 
 Our carriages halted in a cluster of houses under some 
 large sycamore trees, one of which extended its ample 
 shade over us while we dined on a rude table, for the 
 use of which we paid a drachma ("20 cts.) We were 
 soon besieged by antiquity venders, having ^^ genuine 
 antiques,^^ tear bottles, cups, kylixes, &c.; which they 
 said were once used by the ancient Corinthians, and 
 which may have been several months old. 
 
 Near by where we ate, a few Doric columns, tied at 
 the top by large stones, fragments of the old architrave, 
 mark the site of the only remaining temple of the gods 
 of Corinth, and the only building that St. Paul looked 
 upon during his sojourn here of nearly two years. From 
 this temple we took horses and rode to the gates of the 
 citadel, about three miles distant, and tvvo thousand feet 
 high. This was the most impregnable fortress known to 
 the ancients, called the "fetters of Greece" by Philip, and 
 .could be taken only by surprise or treachery, and even 
 since the days of artillery can be taken from one side 
 •only, a pointed rock to the southwest from which it was 
 battered and taken by Mohammed the Second. There 
 are two or three sets of gates that must be passed ere 
 one can reach the interior. Within the walls are the re- 
 mains of a large town, perhaps not less than twelve 
 thousand people once lived on this rocky pinnacle ; none 
 of the houses, however, remain intact, all have been par- 
 tially or quite torn down. Two Mohammedan mosques 
 remain, shattered as the rest. In the largest one about 
 half-way from the gates to the highest point of the hill, 
 two cows were quietly resting in the shade, cheWing 
 their cuds. 
 
251 
 
 "Here is the spring at which Pegasus was drinking 
 when taken by Bellerophon." At proper intervals along 
 the walls many old cannon w^ere distributed, but all at 
 which they could belch forth their missiles of woe was 
 gone. 
 
 Where two thousand years ago marble temples stood 
 in honor of Venus, where was the Stadium, the Theatre, 
 the Agora, the Lyceum and Academy, all was still ; Mo- 
 hammed's legions had likewise come and gone. 
 
 A few patches of houses (I will not say towns), dis- 
 graced the ample plains below, once teeming with cul- 
 tured citizens, who excelled in painting and casting and 
 working of glass as their neighbors at Athens did in 
 sculpture, who probably were the authors of the bronze 
 Hercules in the Vatican which cost Pius the Ninth, over 
 ten millions of pounds. 
 
 A few crafts float in the harbors of the opposite seas, 
 where once were forests of masts, whence sailed the 
 first w^ar galleys and whither came the commerce of all 
 the Orient. 
 
 Looking northwest over the Corinthian gulf we saw 
 Mount Parnassus, home of the Muses, mantled in snow 
 above ancient Delphi, 
 
 "Where, save a feeble fountain, all is still." 
 
 Helicon and many other mountain peaks were in view, 
 the mention of whose names calls to mind some tragic 
 event inhistory, some metamorphosis of the mythologist, 
 some immortal song of the poet. 
 
 We all gathered at the highest point and scanned the 
 horizon round through our glasses, then the nearer land- 
 scape, then back into each other's eyes to read reflections 
 
252 
 
 that might find expression there. What melancholy 
 emotions involuntarily arise in witnessing how the glory 
 of man may vanish and come to nought I 
 
 We returned, reaching Athens about 7 p. m., and felt, 
 as President Mills expressed it, that though he had to go 
 over the road three times, it would not be too often. 
 
 The next day, in company with three of the gentle- 
 men of the party that went to Corinth, we visited the 
 American School of Archaeology, History and Literature. 
 We met Prof. Rolfe, a graduate of Amherst College, and 
 for some time professor in the University of Ohio. Al- 
 ready he has gained an enviable place among modern 
 archaeologists, though he did not seem to be past twenty- 
 five. We also met his accomplished young wife, a fit 
 companion for a man whose chief association besides is 
 with fragments of old stones exhumed from old city 
 sites and tombs. 
 
 Prof. Waldstein is in charge of the school, and it 
 seems to be in excellent hands. He will be remembered 
 as the visitor who discovered the lost metope of the Par- 
 thenon in the Louvre at Paris, and came suddenly before 
 the world as a discoverer, taking high rank as an archae- 
 ologist, which position he has ever since most ably 
 sustained. 
 
 From those gentlemen we learned that a student can 
 live in Athens, have free use of the school, and meet all 
 necessary expenses for about $12.50 to $15.00 per month. 
 
 We ascended Mt. Lycabettus hardby the city to the 
 northeast, and enjoyed one of the finest landscapes on 
 earth. Saving her temples, Athens is as beautiful, per- 
 haps, as ever ; so are her blue gulfs, her fields of wheat 
 that skirt the suburbs, her groves of olive trees, her 
 
253 
 
 royal gardens, her wide well-paved streets, her marble 
 palaces, her modern academies, one of which it is claim- 
 ed has the finest Aida of any university in the world. 
 
 Athens that was did her share in making the civiliza- 
 tion of the world that is, going in her mission by way of 
 Kome and Constantinople, while Athens that is, at last 
 is receiving back from the civilized nations, whom she 
 so well served, the ideas of commerce, manufacturing, 
 politics, literature and law. 
 
CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 THROUGH THE HELLESPONT TO THE 
 SUBLIME PORTE. 
 
 We go from Piraeus, the harbor of Athens, to 
 Constantinople by the Itahan line of steamers. Now an 
 Italian agent will always make a traveller pay more than 
 the legitimate price of a ticket. On railroads, they only 
 collect 5 centimes more than the price stamped on the 
 face of the ticket, while I found, after going aboard, that 
 I had paid three lirae or sixty cents more than the price 
 as stamped on the face of the "billet." 
 
 We had a stormy sea until we reached the Dardanelles. 
 I dreamed, the first night out from Athens, of embracing 
 loved ones at home, and awoke to find myself holding 
 tight to the sides of my berth to keep from falling out. 
 A fellow-passenger told me, next day, that he was thrown 
 from his (upper) berth to the floor of his stateroom, and 
 considerably bruised. Bishop and Mrs. Fowler and 
 their only son, C. H. Fowler, Jr., were on board return- 
 ing from an episcopal tour through the mission fields of 
 their (M. E.) church in China and Japan and on their 
 way to the European mission conferences, one of which 
 at Loftcha in Bulgaria, I hoped to visit, should time 
 permit. Being about the ablest preacher of his denom- 
 ination I hoped to hear him, but did not. What limited 
 time we were together I enjoyed recitals of his experience 
 as a christian and preacher. He enjoys a joke. He 
 
255 
 
 was one ol the party when we visited, on donkeys, the 
 ruins at Denderah, expressing pity for the donkey-boy, 
 some one asked : " Why don't you take it time about 
 with him, Bishop ?" He rephed : " There's a miUion of 
 them and but one of me." 
 
 At ten o'clock next morning, we entered the mouth of 
 the Dardanehes, the dead line of nations, and every foot 
 of land to Constantinople has a thrilhng history, asso- 
 ciated with the building or burying of earthly empires. 
 We first pass Tenedos, whither Homer says the Greeks 
 carried their galleys to make the Trojans think they had 
 retired from the siege, and where they built the wooden 
 horse. We pass near that field where nothing but 
 the death of faithful Patroclus could dispel the sullen 
 gloom of Peleus' son and kindle his martial spirit into 
 that quenchless flame that made him the hero of the 
 first and greatest epic. Fine fields, fairly cultivated, 
 stretch inland from the Straits and seem to be capable of 
 large yield. Occasionally thin forests of diminutive 
 growth adorn the landscape. We reach the towns of 
 Sedur-Bahr on the left and Dardanelles on the right, 
 where we have to halt and submit to an examination by 
 the Turkish officials appointed by the government to 
 examine all vessels passing that way to Constantinople 
 and the Black sea. Near by we see where Leander and 
 Lord Byron swam across, about three miles, the latter 
 taking seventy minutes to make it. The distance is said 
 to be three miles, while the current carries one a mile 
 out of his course, making it necessary to travel four 
 miles in all. Lord Byron and a fellow traveller, Mr^ 
 Ekenhead represented the current as strong, the water 
 cold, though they made the shore without fatigue. 
 Some doubt whether the story of Leander be true, as 
 
256 
 
 lie would have to smm eight miles in going from Abydos 
 to Sestos and returning. A tower, called Leander's tower, 
 stands at the mouth of the Bosphorus between Stamboul 
 and Scutari, built to commemorate this faithful brave 
 and devoted lover. 
 
 Near Abydos, Xerxes had built his bridge of boats, 
 fastened by cables of papyrus, for the transportation of 
 the Asiatic troops to Europe, the first of which, by 
 Mandraele. was carried away by a storm, which so 
 enraged him that he murdered the architect. 
 
 The ancient site of Abydos is now occupied by a 
 Turkish town called Nogaw Bauran ; here Parmenio led 
 Alexander's army across fi'om Europe to Asia, and again 
 the Osmanli Crescent crossed to be set up first on 
 European soil, by Suleiman, A. D., 1360. 
 
 The day was very bright, which greatly increased the 
 enjoyment of the sail through waters so renowned, 
 where steamships from all nations pass hourly up and 
 down. We fain would have driven our shi]) on faster, 
 that we might enjoy the views presented by the borders 
 of both continents, all the way to Constantinople, but 
 night fell upon us as we entered the sea of Marmora (or 
 marble). It is so named in consequence of the abundant 
 supply of marble quarries along its coasts and in its 
 Islands. 
 
 I can hardly hope to convey to my readers even a 
 small conception of the beauty which the rising sun 
 revealed on the morning of April loth, as we came into 
 the harbor of Constantinople. For more than an hour 
 i^revious to our arrival we were on deck eagerly antici- 
 pating, from statements made by those on board and 
 familiar with the city, somewhat of its magnificence. 
 
 In approaching the city on the sea of Marmora, we 
 
257 
 
 pass Stephanos, where the English gunboats stopped the 
 Russians approaching to the capture of the Turkish 
 capital, in 1878, just too soon. Next is Makrikoi, (pro- 
 nounced Makrikeue,) then a large factory town to the 
 left and Scutari to the right — all suburbs of Stamboul. 
 The sea contains many islands, a flying visit to seven of 
 which claims one day of the hurried tourist's time. 
 
 The objects seen most distinctly at a distance as one 
 approaches are the minarets of St. Sophia, the Mosque 
 of Achmed and the Genoese Tower. These appear to 
 be only a mite above a sea of indistinct objects all 
 mingled together promiscuously — the outlines of this 
 world-renowned metropolis. As we approach nearer 
 and nearer, the parts of the mighty emporium stretch 
 out on either hand like wings, and rising from the water 
 terrace-like, extend far inland. 
 
 The sea is divided into two arms — one of which, to 
 the right, extends twenty miles to the Black sea and is 
 called the Bosphorus; the other, about six or seven 
 miles long, is called the Golden Horn. That part of 
 the city which is embraced by these two arms bears the 
 double name of Pera and Galata. Pera is the name of 
 the upper portion and Galata the lower. Rue de Pera 
 is the name of the principal street of the city. Galata 
 is connected with Stamboul or old Byzantium (of the 
 Greeks,) by an American-built iron bridge across the 
 Golden Horn. Immediately to the left is the old 
 Seraglio grounds. 
 
 The city across the Bosporus on the Asiatic side is 
 called Scutari, the Brooklyn ot Constantinople, of which 
 we shall have occasion to speak hereafter. 
 
 Our ship anchors just below Seraglio Point, surrounded 
 by a hundred more, doing business in these waters to 
 
258 
 
 the amount of 7,000,000 tons annually, receiving and 
 discharging tourists and cargoes from and to all civihzed 
 nations. A thousand minarets, each surmounted by a 
 crescent, gleaming in the sun-light, rise above a city or 
 cities magnificent in extent and in appearance from the 
 deck of our steamer, and in power, also, if we judge by 
 the length of time they have dominated these seas and 
 shores, or by the dozen idle ironclads at rest in the 
 Golden Horn, ready at short notice to sail in the national 
 defence or to the conquest of any undefended nation 
 whose tribute would be worth the cost of war. 
 
 Many are the factors that enter into the Eastern ques- 
 tion, if it be any question, not the least of which perhaps 
 is the providence that retains the dominancv of the 
 "ever sick, but never dying man of the East," because 
 his neighbors show no more readiness to uplift the 
 masses than himself. 
 
Illlist. 
 
 w 
 
CHAPTER XXX. 
 
 IN AND ABO UT STAMB UL 
 
 When I reached Cook's office, on the Rue de Pera, 
 where good mail matter was in waiting, I met again Dr. 
 Oreen, of Buffalo, N. Y., and Mr. Dogget, of Winooski, 
 Vt., whom I had seen in Jerusalem. We took a car- 
 riage, and George Thomas for a guide. We went first 
 to the Genoese Tower, built by the Italians when tliey 
 were in possession centuries ago. It is on a hill in Ga- 
 lata, near to the British Post Office. It is a circular 
 wall about twelve feet thick, if I remember correctly, 
 and about fifty feet in diameter. One ascends by stone 
 steps in the w'all about two hundred feet, wdience the 
 view is very fine. We next cross the Golden Horn, pass 
 Pnblique Dette — the Government School for Priests — into 
 the Seraglio grounds, go through the Museum of Anti- 
 quities, see one fine piece of Statuary— Andreanus, the 
 Greek victor — Cyprian pottery and Assyrian Antiquities, 
 drive as near the Sublime Po^te (that is, the lofty gate 
 of the Seraglio, from which the name is given to the 
 Sultan's realms) as they will allow, which is not near 
 enough to pass through it, as we have no firman. In 
 the grounds stands the largest tree I ever saw. It is a 
 sycamore. We go hence to St. Sophia. It costs us two 
 shillings each to enter and two piasters each for sandals 
 to wear while within. Rugs and carpets of matting 
 covered the floor, and a few Turks were 2)raying, while 
 
261 , 
 
 others were hiughing and talkiiig. St Sophia was built 
 for a Christian churchy and the builder, when it was 
 completed, was so elated at its magnificent appearance 
 that he said: "Solomon. I have surpassed thee !" Some 
 of the material was brought ft'om Ephesus and other 
 cities, and no doubt this was among the finest structures 
 in existence when first built, as it is still. 
 
 We go to the Hippodrome, which contains an Egyp- 
 tian Obelisk, Constantine's Tower, and the three brazen 
 serpents, ten feet high and thirteen inches in diameter, 
 which once "formed the interior of the Tripod of Del- 
 phos;" they are twisted together and have all been be- 
 headed, the first one by Mahomet (not the prophet) 
 when he took the city. We saw one of these heads in 
 the museum. This is one of the oldest antiquities in 
 existence, and speaks of the days when the Greeks 
 looked towards Delphi as the Moslems do towards 
 Mecca. 
 
 The Museum of the Janizaries next claims our atten- 
 tion ; they were a mighty factor in the completion of the 
 subjugation of tlie Byzantine empire. One sees the 
 dress and armor used by each officer and servant. Their 
 number was only 1,000 at first, chosen from among the 
 Greeks as a body-guard to the Sultan, kept in position 
 and faithful by receiving the spoils of war, they were 
 increased to 40,000 and became a terror to Christendom 
 in the East. 
 
 The Reservoir of 1001 columns is a wonderful struc- 
 ture ; it contained three stories, each supported by 224 
 pillars, making 672 in all. Why it was called reservoir 
 of 1001 columns I do not know. Two of these stories 
 are now filled up ; the third, about 25 feet underground, 
 is used to spin silk in. When used for water it contain- 
 
. 262 
 
 •ed 1,0(X),000 cubic feet, though that of St. Peter was six 
 times as large. When we emerged from it a rough Turk 
 who had seen us enter or who had been called by our 
 guide, w^as on hand to receive backsheesh for so great and 
 important a privilege as we had enjoyed. 
 
 We next visited Seraskierat, which contains the offices 
 of the War Department, and the City Tower, which we 
 did not ascend. Hard by is the Pigeon mosque, the 
 court yard of which is darkened by thousands of pigeons 
 daily. When a Turk is sick or in perils by the sea, he 
 vows to Allah to go and feed the pigeons, if he but 
 obtain deliverance; hence one can always see these 
 Mussulmen fulfilling their vows much to the gratification 
 of the pigeons. 
 
 Although we had engaged the carriage for the day, 
 our coachman wanted his pay and to postpone till to- 
 morrow the seeing of the Seven Towers and Palace of 
 the Sultan's headquarters. After parleying over it for 
 a long time we conquered and rode through the entire 
 city of Old Stamboul, and back by the barracks of his 
 majesty's troops and Topari or Artillery Mosque and 
 Mosque of the Sultan, called also Yildik or Star. The 
 interior of this is very imposing. The Sultan worships 
 Tiere once a week, on Friday. It is near to the Royal 
 residence and surrounded by most splendid gardens, far 
 up on the heights back of the city. Returning we stop- 
 ped at the Bible house, and met Mr. Bliss, son of Dr. 
 Bliss, whom we met in Egypt. He is the efficient young 
 -Secretary. Dr. Buckley learned from him that one could 
 buy the air above residences, whereby the owner was 
 prevented from building his dwelling any higher. 
 
 I was told that the Bibles they distributed are often 
 torn to pieces by fanatical Turks; but a Mohammedan 
 
263, 
 
 will never destroy a paper with the name of God on it, 
 if he knows it ; on the contrary, they will pick up and 
 preserve every piece, however filthy, which contains that 
 holy name. They cram these pieces into crevices be- 
 tween rocks or where the name will be preserved from 
 further abuse. I heard a story of one thus preserving 
 such a piece of Scripture in Jerusalem and had curiosi- 
 ty enough to read what was said about God, and was 
 by it led to embrace Christianity. Nothing I have ever 
 witnessed surpasses in sincerity and I may say solemni- 
 ty, a Moslem at prayer, yet with all that it is not at all 
 certain that he has any principle. 
 
 IN ASIA MINOR AGAIN. 
 
 April the 16th was set apart by us to visit Scutari, the 
 Mohammedan and English Cemeteries, and Boulgour- 
 loo, on the Asiatic side of the Bosphorus. The steam 
 ferry-boats start from the bridge that spans the Golden 
 Horn, and are capable of carrying about one hundred 
 and fifty passengers each, and they run abount every 
 fifteen minutes through the day. One man sells you a 
 ticket, another punches it and a third collects. The 
 boat is divided into two decks, first and second class, 
 each of which is divided into two compartments — one 
 for gentlemen, one for ladies ; also on each side of the 
 lower deck a room is cut off and labelled in English 
 and Arabic, "Harem reserve." A man may take his 
 wives in if it be unoccupied ; if it be occupied, he is 
 separated from them on the trip. I thought once, at 
 Bebek, I should fail to get aboard at all, being met and 
 stopped at every effort. I found that, without knowing 
 it, I was trying to pass through a gate where only fe- 
 
264 
 
 males could pass. ''One must do in Turkey as Turks 
 do." 
 
 Landing in Scutari we took a carriage for the Moham- 
 medan Cemetery — one of the largest in the world, cov- 
 ering several square miles, and the tombs are crowded 
 about as near together as they can be. Every grave was 
 marked by a marble slab, or, I should rather say, post 
 or column, for they were narrow and thick, often eight 
 feet high, each having a head with a peculiar head- 
 dress or turban worn by deceased during his Hfe. 
 
 One is shown a canopy supported by six marble 
 columns, beneath which is buried the favorite horse 
 of Sultan Mohammed. Above all these wave tall and 
 graceful cypresses, emblems of mourning. 
 
 Passing this, we soon reach the English Cemetery to 
 the right. Not only the English sailors and inhabitants 
 who die here are brought here for interment, but those 
 of the English troops who fell in the Crimean war, sleep 
 here also ; and a granite shaft, forty or fifty feet high, 
 stands in the midst of the grounds, raised in honor of 
 England's fallen braves. It is approached frnn several 
 sides by gravel walks, either shaded or bordered by 
 several species of evergreens. Just outside is the hos- 
 pital where is still shown the room and furniture of 
 Miss Nightingale, who devoted her talents to the allevi- 
 ation of human suffering. 
 
 About six miles from the landing at Scutari, we reach 
 Boulgourloo, passing, on the way, several pretty towns 
 and a few of the Sultan's summer palaces, for he has a 
 great number of them. Boulgourloo is a high hill, 
 covered with grass, sloping rapidly in all directions ; it 
 is one of the hills on which beacon fires were lighted 
 from Tarsus to B3'zantium before the electric telegraph. 
 
265 
 
 From it the Emperors used to start to Asia on their 
 hunting expeditions. The hill is several hundred feet 
 high, and the forests having perished centuries since, 
 one can see for a hundred miles over the sea of Marmora, 
 studded with islands, and Kadi Koi, the site of Chalce- 
 don of old, birth place of Zenocrates, and seat of the 
 fourth general council, A. D. 451, which condemned 
 the Monophysites ; it was the starting point of gen- 
 erals, in olden times, to Persia and the East. It is 
 more ancient than Byzantium (Constantinople). We 
 see many miles over hills and plains towards the inte- 
 rior of Asia. On the other side the Bosphorus, adorn- 
 ed by a dozen towns, comes, by the aid of our glass- 
 es, within easy eye-shot. What shall I say of Con- 
 stantinople, with her suburbs far enough away to lose 
 all her objectionable aspects, and near enough to pre- 
 sent her hundreds of mosques, palaces and public build- 
 ings, with the ships of all nations ever coming and going! 
 Truly she sits a queen, and the most favorably located 
 of any city in the world perhaps, if she only had a good 
 citizenship, of progressive men in her back countries. 
 
 We very fortunately happened on this side on the 
 most favorable day of the year ; it is fifteen days until 
 Ramazan, and the day the camels start to Mecca with 
 the national offerings. They start from the Mosque of 
 Achmed the first, and are taken thence to a boat. The 
 boat brings them to Scutari, and two huge Bactrian 
 camels, decorated with silk into which threads of gold 
 and silver are woven and ostrich feathers until they 
 are nearly covered ujd. wait to receive the presents; 
 really the camels are meant for priests or dignitaries to 
 ride upon, i\^hile thirty or forty mules are laden with 
 two or three boxes and trunks apiece and the camels 
 
266 
 
 support large canopies that pitch forward at one step 
 and backward at the next, as if they meant not to stay 
 in position to grace the procession. 
 
 Thousands of people had gathered to witness the re- 
 ligious /e^e ; allthe piazzas and windows were full of ex- 
 cited spectators ; about a hundred cavalry were on hand 
 to keep the peace and guard the sacred treasures. The 
 street that led down to the landing was so crowded that, 
 fearing lest at the critical moment we should fail to be 
 in a favorable j^osition for seeing, we took a shop-keep- 
 ers bench and stood upon it; but when the cavalry 
 formed in line we were only about four feet in their rear, 
 and the very horse that was in front ol us became very 
 restless, ran backward into our party, hurting several 
 persons and upsetting our bench, almost breaking a 
 boy's leg. While all this pageant was passing I had 
 serious misgivings lest the fanaticism of these Turks 
 should suggest something disastrous to us Christians, so 
 few, and safeguards so far away, nor did I feel perfectly 
 at ease until the crowd dis23ersed. 
 
 At two o'clock the booming of cannon informed us 
 that the freight had started, and in a few moments it 
 was landed, reloaded and hurried away. While it w s 
 being brought ashore there was a mock gladiatorial con- 
 test. 
 
 The Ramazan is the Moslem Lent and lasts four weeks. 
 During that time they neither eat, drink, nor smoke 
 from sun-up until sun-down ; the first thing after sun- 
 down is to smoke ; this they will do for an hour often, 
 after which they eat. The camels start to Mecca two 
 weeks before, so that the offerings may be on hand at 
 the opening of Ramazan. We recrossed to the European 
 side, made an excursion up the Golden Horn to the 
 Sweet Waters, passing the magnificent red stone College 
 of the Greek church, and completed the day. 
 
CHAPTER XXXI. 
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE AND THE TURKS. 
 
 Wednesday, April 17th, was our last day in Constan- 
 tinople. We went up the Bosphorus to the Black Sea, 
 by the route which Jason went in search of the "Gol- 
 den Fleece." The coast on either hand was lined with 
 towns nearly all the way up. Ours was a mail steamer, 
 and it was curious to see them deliver the mail and 
 tickets. The former was carried in square boxes, locked 
 with a hasp, staple and padlock. At every station the 
 Captain would have the tickets tied up in a little bag 
 about such as we have seen boys carry their marbles in, 
 into which a stone weighing four or five ounces was 
 dropped. This would carry momentum sufficient to 
 land it, while he received a like wallet from each station, 
 to be carried on, tossed ab jard often after the boat was 
 under headway. Failing to carry lunch I had to buy 
 some bread, which gave me an idea I should else have 
 missed. As I could not speak Turkish, and being alone 
 (for my companions returned to the city, while I got off 
 at Bebek to see our American College,) I stood near by 
 the bread vender until I saw him sell a ring of it about 
 as large as the ring used on a trapeze, say six inches in 
 diameter, then I knew the price and bought myself, 
 taking the bread and laying down two metterlichs. The 
 idea I caught was the benefit of seeds sprinkled on the 
 bread while cooking. I do not know the name of the 
 
268 
 
 seeds ; they were about as large as cloverseed, and pos- 
 sessed a strong and very pleasant flavor. They also 
 possessed an oily property, which made the bread more 
 nourishing. 
 
 The college is about twenty minutes walk from the 
 landing, and is reached by walking up a very precipit- 
 ous hill overlooking the Bosphorus. The walk-way, 
 however, is well graded and passes under that famous 
 wall built by Mohammed II in three months, each 
 workman doing more each day than had ever been done 
 by one man in a day before or since. It was built in 
 the shape of the Arabic letters which spell Mohammed's 
 name, and as a rallying point from which to take Con- 
 stantinople and destroy the Byzantine empire. I have 
 seen no prettier location anywhere than Robert College 
 enjoys. It overlooks nearly the entire length of the 
 Bosphorus and far into Asia Minor beyond, whose bosom 
 is covered with pretty towns and prosperous farm-hou- 
 ses in the midst of the green fields. 
 
 It is surrounded by a stone wall and a great variety 
 of trees and shrubbery. The building is of stone and is 
 large, commodious and well arranged ; a four-story house, 
 built around an open court, from which the ascent is 
 made to the upper stories. After looking at the grounds 
 and buildings sufficiently from without, I called on Dr. 
 Washburn, the President ; while waiting for him, an 
 indelible impression was made upon my mind to the 
 effect that the officers were very busy and the students 
 equally as idle. Dr. Washburn I found to be a very 
 polite, communicative gentleman. The students of the 
 college were from Servia, Bulgaria, Austria and several 
 other nationalities are represented including Jews, being 
 either Greek or Catholic christians, instead of Turkish 
 
269 
 
 boys, only one or two of which, I believe, are in the 
 college. The college is a power for good, though inferior 
 to that of Beirut. The other high schools of Constan- 
 tinople are said to be atheistic, which fact gains a 
 sympathy otherwise denied this Protestant Christian 
 college. They have one hundred and seventy boys en- 
 rolled. An orator alluding to its proximity to Mahomet 
 Second's wall and towers, said : "It stands on higher 
 ground than those towers. It dominates them. Its 
 forces are spiritual and eternal. It shall see them pass 
 away." This prophecy will doubtless be fulfilled. They 
 were seven years securing a title to the property after it 
 was purchased ; such is the Turkish way of doing busi- 
 ness and his fear of the Russ and Frank. 
 
 To-day is the Sultan's birthday ; the masts of every 
 Turkish craft are ornamented with streamers ; the fronts 
 of gardens and yards have lattice-work made of flowers 
 and tinted paper woven into fanciful shapes; the branch- 
 es of trees are hung full of bottles. The streets are 
 crossed with ropes and twine woven into webs at places, 
 all strung with candles and Chinese lanterns to be light- 
 ed at night. At 12 o'clock m. twenty-one rounds of 
 cannon are fired. 
 
 Constantinople, a magnificent city, is at her best, doing 
 honor to her ruler. Everybody seems to take pleasure 
 in the occasion ; though the Sultan is as much afraid of 
 dynamite as the Czar of Russia. 
 
 At night the city, with all her suburbs, is illuminated? 
 every one of her thousand minarets is blazing, and they 
 look together like all the constellations of the skies had 
 clustered just over the happy capitol. The Sultan's 
 palace, just above Yildik, seemed from Galata across the 
 Golden Horn, to be of crystal and illuminated with a 
 
270 
 
 hundred electric lights ; and hundreds of inferior pal- 
 aces, with mosques and military stations, far up on the 
 heights in the suburbs, and private dwellings, all \ded 
 with each other in an effort to honor the Ottoman 
 monarch. 
 
 No doubt thousands of barrels of kerosene were con- 
 sumed, and the fall moon lent all her mellow radiance 
 to enhance the witchery of the scene. I stood for more 
 than an hour beneath a spell, as it were. Pera, through 
 which runs the Strand, or Broadway, and the city on 
 both sides the Bosphorus, are behind me and out of 
 sight; but Stamboul, rising terrace-like beyond the 
 Golden Horn, is reflected from its trembling face, which 
 almost doubled the grandeur, already everwhelming. I 
 had never seen anything of the kind so splendid before; 
 I do not expect to see it again on earth. Great is the 
 power of a man or a system thatswiys millions of loyal 
 souls, even though they be semi-heathens. 
 
 This ovation not only marks the high place the Sultan 
 Abdul Hamid II holds in his subjects' esteem, but 
 shDws him entitled to be placed beside earth's poten- 
 tates. 
 
 Again, we thought of the waste of labor and material, 
 so much needed by the ignorant children of this pon- 
 derous empire, and asked the question, why all this 
 waste upon one poor, perishing polygamist, who feels 
 to be jeopardizing his life every time he goes out? And 
 the answer comes back, for the sake of these same poor, 
 needy wretches, w^ho will not rest content without such 
 remote, pampered, haughty, aristocratic masters. Of 
 course oppression abounds, but this evil is less than 
 those which arise from a consciousness of irresponsible 
 freedom among a people incapable of self-government. 
 
271 
 
 Give such a people pageants, illuminations, parades,, 
 sensuality and mystery about religion ; make Cathedrals 
 dark ; read or sing prayers in an unknown tongue ; ex- 
 communicate for reading scriptures and knowing truth, 
 and it is no surprise to find anomaly in moral, social 
 and political matters, such as a celibate priesthood on 
 the one hand and a polygamous one on the other, re- 
 sulting in scepticism and nihilism. 
 
 Time would fail to tell of all the strange experiences 
 of a traveller here, or the interesting objects on every 
 hand, or the habits or religion of the Turks. The facts 
 that they do abstain from wine, do observe the rite of 
 circumcision, do fast during Ramazan, show them capa- 
 ble of becoming exemplary christians. But they are cruel 
 in the treatment of their wives, making them do almost 
 all the work, consider the birth of girls a curse, and 
 make them begin to wear veils at eleven or twleve years 
 
 of age. 
 
 If a man wishes a wife he must speak to his father to 
 secure one for him ; if he hkes her he keeps her, if not, 
 he returns her to her iatlier ; and if he be able to sup- 
 port two he gets his father to look him up another. No 
 courting among the Arabs. *♦ 
 
 Their salutations are unsurpassed by any people for 
 grace and significance. An Arab meeting or parting 
 with a friend will raise his right hand to his forehead, 
 drop it to his lips, then to his breast, which means, I 
 revere you with my mind, speak well of you with my 
 lips, and give you a place in my heart. One might go 
 far to find more delicate politeness. On parting the 
 first says : Yallah salaam! May you go in peace. The 
 other responds : Salaam, i. e., peace. The ordinary salu- 
 tation is. En harak sa'id, i. e., " May you have a rich 
 
272 
 
 day." The response is equivalent but the words differ- 
 ent, and is : En harak mabarak ! If an Arab wishes to 
 carry a point he will stoop to conquer ; he will kiss your 
 hand repeatedly, lay the back of it against his forehead, 
 on the top of his head, and kiss it again. 
 
 A story is told of a Turk as follows : A neighbor 
 wished to borrow his donkey and was told the animal 
 was not at home ; pretty soon the animal brayed, said 
 the neighbor : "There, he is at home." " I won't lend 
 anything," said the Turk, " to a man who believes a 
 donkey's voice in preference to mine!" 
 
 If you approach a female unveiled, who usually keeps 
 her face veiled, she will either pull the veil over her face, 
 and hold it in her mouth or turn her head till you pass. 
 
 Often in the warmer climates of Egypt and Palestine 
 the males and females seem to be dressed alike, look- 
 ing at them from the rear ; a tunic or something like a 
 sheet of white cloth is worn over the whole body, head 
 and all; the men often wear clothes like an American, 
 often a skirt which fastens to each leg below the knee 
 and a coat about his body. The women have a great 
 variety of dress, including trousers. Mothers of the poor 
 learn th^r children to say backsheesh before they learn to 
 say mother. I have seen them send babies out to meet 
 us not three years old, who understood their business. 
 They will come out, babe in hand, point to it and say 
 "he" or " she christian, 6ac^*s/t(?es/i, Howadji!" 
 
 A lady told me that while at Marsaba, in Palestine, 
 she ordered a donkey boy to wash out the kyathos and 
 bring her a nice drink of water; he put some water in 
 the vessel, went up to a donkey, thrust the end of the 
 donkey's tail into the kyathos and mopped it out and 
 brought her a nice drink of water ! Using him as a 
 
273 
 
 €up-towel ! Very convenient that ; it can be hung out 
 to dry and preserved for future use. 
 
 While there are about 1,000,000 inhabitants in Con- 
 stantinople our guide said there were 1,500,000 dogs. I 
 I have counted eight in one pile, sleeping like hogs. 
 These are nearly all of the same species, a kind of cross 
 between the cur and Shepherd dog. They are relig- 
 iously scrupulous about the treatment of canines. Every 
 man fee s the dogs in front of his door, though he lays 
 no claim to them ; he will also defend them when en- 
 dangered. The dogs of one street or section live in har- 
 mony among themselves, but will not tolerate strange 
 dogs ; they unite to ostracise any visitor ; all seem to 
 understand the proper boundaries of their real estate 
 and allow no trespassing. Friday is Moslem Sabbath 
 and on that day they publicly feed dogs. 
 
 The Mahometans are fatalists. When misfortunes 
 overtake them they say. Kismet Diir— It is fate. They 
 do not think the trouble could have been averted by 
 any effort of theirs. 
 
 Oriental cities are generally built in a very compact 
 manner because it is more economical and affords greater 
 defense in time of war, few of the streets are broad 
 enough for vehicles to pass, they are often built on hill- 
 sides, also, because of the better defense thus secured. 
 So that instead of the carts and drays used in Occiden- 
 tal cities, men carry the baggage and freight from 
 wharves to stores and warehouses. A thick pad is 
 fastened over the shoulders falling down below the 
 hips, a box of merchandise often weighing three or four 
 hundred pounds rests on this while the man goes in a 
 stooping attitude, a long rope reaches around the bur- 
 den behind and around the bearer's forehead. The 
 
274 
 
 limbs of these human freight cars are generally bare, 
 and evidence the greatest possible muscular develop- 
 ment. 
 
 The}' say that Satan, " Stoned Devil," against whom 
 they pray five times daily, is the genius that inspires 
 all mechanical wisdom. 
 
 They punish apostasy with death, unless the apostate 
 recant at once. When Moliammed began his brilHant 
 career, he told his followers the world was divided into 
 two parts, viz : Dar ul Islam and Dar ul Harb — that is. 
 House of Islam and House of War. " House of War," 
 said he, " is for God. God gives it to you." What such 
 a motto and its inspiration wrought, Christendom knows 
 but too well. He j^redicted the capture of Constantinople 
 700 or 800 years before it was done. It was not Mo- 
 hammed's purpose to destroy Christians and Jews. He 
 called them Kitablees, or people with a Book, meaning 
 the Bible — his system being a degenerate Judaism 
 grafted to Arabic habits. His followers, however, did 
 not adhere to this part of the j^lan. Jerusalem was the 
 first city that fell into their hands, and Charlemagne, to 
 whom the Kalif sent the keys of the Holy Sepulchre, 
 secured from them safety for Frank merchants in Syria 
 and Egypt. 
 
 Dr. Menzies' Turkey^ Old and Neiv, says : 
 
 "Mussulman conquest is rapid and splendid and followed by 
 precarious and incurable decadence." 
 
 The Turks had a standing army when such a thing 
 was unknown in Europe. But Europe was laying broad 
 and deep the foundations for mightier conquests than 
 the "gorgeous East" had ever known, or could ever 
 attain, until they too should follow the ways of the 
 western world. 
 
275 
 
 The following is a summarized estimate of the Turks 
 b}^ one who travelled throughout the Ottoman Empire, 
 
 " They are hospitable, charitable generally, sometimes gener- 
 ous; the lower classes are honest, their greatest merit; not so with 
 the upper classes ; but one may rely on their solemn promise. 
 They are ignorant, presumptuous, vain and bigoted, proud with- 
 out any feeling of honor, and cringing without humility, cannot 
 resist money or the prospective benefit of a lie. 
 
 In Government and administrative duties they are tyrannical 
 and overbearing, in religion dogmatic and intolerant, in fiscal 
 measures mercenary and arbitrary, and ignorant of their own 
 history as they are of others. The higher classes are inferior in 
 character, probity and honor to the lower. Their virtue is that 
 of the Savage, who is generous because nature supplies his 
 wants, and charitable because of the uncertain tenure by which 
 he holds his goods; poor and removed from temptation he is 
 honest, but entrusted with office he becomes a thief. He plun- 
 ders the poor and propitiates the rich by bribes, hence offices 
 are sold to the highest bidder." 
 
 Constantinople is the headquarters for such missionary 
 work as is carried on in Turkish territory. Our Consul 
 there is a Jew, and secures for our Missions more 
 clemency than his Christian predecessor, so I was 
 informed at Bierut. He put the Missions on the same 
 basis as all other American enterprises. Dr. Hamlin, 
 founder of Robert College, relates an experience which 
 illustrates the power of Christianity even among Mussul- 
 men. While superintending a bakery that supplied the 
 English army with bread, he bought on thirty days 
 time, ten thousand dollars worth of flour from a Turkish 
 merchant, on his credit as a Christian Missionary. I 
 visited the Sailors' bethel here and was present at one 
 service, and had a gracious season of prayer with a 
 sailor who had not walked for several weeks, on account 
 of rheumatism, and was glad to hear that he came down 
 stairs the next day. 
 
 As I looked at this degraded people, I was saddened 
 
276 
 
 iDeyond expression; they looked like sheep, having 
 no shepherd. I often longed for a voice that they 
 ■could understand, that I might tell them good news, 
 and that the christian church could but catch as a 
 watchword Mahomet's own, " This part is God's, God 
 gives it to you," and give and go and continue giving 
 and going until the mighty work of preaching the 
 gospel to every creature is done. 
 
CHAPTER XXXII. 
 
 THROUGH ROUMANIA, BULGARIA, SERVIA^ 
 HUNGARY AND AUSTRIA. 
 
 At 9 o'clock, p. M., I left Constantinople for Vienna.. 
 After buying my ticket I was seized by two burly Turks 
 unable to speak English more than to say "jjas-s^-por^." 
 Now, a pass-port is seldom required on entering Turk- 
 ish dominions, but always on leaving, so I had secured 
 a Teskereh (Turkish pass-port) for Constantinople ; just 
 such a one as even a Turk would have been required to 
 have if visiting there from some other place, but I had 
 not had my American pass-port vised, i. e., passed through 
 the hands of a Turkish Consul and had his permission 
 to travel in Turkey written on it. So I produced my 
 Teskereh ; they read it, handed it back, and demanded : 
 "Passe-port." Now, if I had given them my American 
 pass-port, not vised, they would have fined me two or 
 three dollars and detained me, perhaps, as many days. 
 So I did not produce that, but handed back the Teskereh 
 again, which they refused, saying: "Passe-port," "passe- 
 port." Not producing the other, one of them snatched 
 the Teskereh out of my hand, which I snatched back as 
 quickly, and turned and walked away. I had learned 
 the tricks of Turks during two months in Egypt, Pales- 
 tine and Syria, and knew they were only after back- 
 sheesh. Had I fallen into the hands of the ruffians on 
 entering their country for the first time, I would have 
 
had to pay out and been detained several days besides. 
 When the train rolled off I felt a burden roll off with 
 it. One is ever ill at ease for fear these Arabs will prac- 
 tice some new, successful trick upon him. There is no 
 trouble to one using Cook's or Gaze's tickets, but some- 
 times I traveled without them — did not have one then. 
 
 The distance from Constantinoj^le to Vienna is one 
 thousand and fifty miles, the time forty-seven hours. I 
 left the brilliantly illuminated city at nine o'clock, p. m. 
 Two or three young Germans got on the same car, and 
 I made an effort to get into the same compartment with 
 them, first, because I was going towards Germany and I 
 would practice speaking a little, and second, because I 
 was afraid to ride with two or three Turks all night in a 
 car locked up, and in a car from which there was no 
 possible egress and no hope of aid if it should be need- 
 ed. I had purposely assumed a garb that was calcula- 
 ted to allay all suspicion that I might have anything 
 worth seizing, and enjoyed more ease in consequence on 
 this transcontinental ride. 
 
 The cars on all European railroads are dispatched in 
 the same w^ay, as follows : Two alarm or signal bells are 
 rung a few minutes before the cars are ready to -start; 
 when the time expires a third bell is rung, the conduc- 
 tor blows a whistle like a dog whistle, the engineer re- 
 sponds with a single whistle from his engine, the cars 
 moving off at the same instant. There is no getting off 
 or on after the last bell is rung. 
 
 As we said we took the cars in old Stamboul and 
 skirted the city by the seashore. It was twenty min- 
 utes ere we passed the last emblazonry of the Sublime 
 Porte and shot out into the darkness towards the west 
 and home. 
 
279 
 
 Unable to converse with the two or three passengers 
 that were in the section of the car with me I was left to 
 my own reflections, and many were the thoughts that 
 coursed through my brain about these Turks, so strange 
 in religion, in habit, in speech, in dress and all their 
 customs ; and the mind went on to kindred subjects, 
 the conditions of the human race, their multiform ways, 
 creeds, colors and characteristics. But much is common 
 to them all. All thirst for more. All have some form 
 of religion. All are "made of one blood for to dwell on 
 all the face of the earth," and perhaps God sees a greater 
 good in them all than we can see or are ready to believe. 
 Musing thus the hours wore on and tired nature sank 
 into the arms of Morpheus. There are no sleeping 
 accommodations on this line, except on the train that 
 leaves on Sundays, but I left on Thursday. 
 
 Next morning we reached 
 
 ADRIANOPLE, 
 
 the last Turkish town. Other travelers carried their 
 baggage to the custom house from the train. I did not. 
 I had not seen it on that fashion as yet. So in a few 
 minutes the officers searched the train, and I expected 
 trouble, but found none and experienced such a sense of 
 relief at being rid of these bugbears "as only those who 
 have travelled in the Orient are able to appreciate. 
 
 As we hurried through a very fertile looking plain the 
 Balkan mountains, about twenty miles from our way, 
 were covered with snow. The fellaheen were ploughing 
 with six-ox teams to iron plows, made by civilized me- 
 chanics, which promised to put new life into the agri- 
 cultural interest of lands so long depressed under Turk- 
 ish rule. We passed the breastworks that mark the 
 
280 
 
 spot where many a brave Servian bled and died in 
 1877_'78, striving to free themselves from the galling 
 yoke of Turkey. Large herds of sheep were pasturing 
 near the road in Turkey, Servia, and Roumelia. 
 
 This long railroad has different cars and different of- 
 ficials for every state through which it passes, and we 
 knew when we ran into a new territory by the change in 
 the uniform of the railway and military officers. The 
 Servians and Bulofarians wear very heavy caps of felt 
 with long knap, also the red stripes down their trouser 
 legs was about two inches wide while that of the Turks 
 was only one-fourth to three-eighths wide; all soldiers 
 wear their national coat of arms. The first day I took 
 dinner at Tzaribrod. This is the country where people 
 live so long. Near here, Peter Czartan lived 185 years, 
 and Kamartzik, of Polotszk, 163 years, and between here 
 and Constantinople, an old Turk still lives, aged 150 years, 
 supported by the Sultan's generosity. If one of these 
 old gentlemen should declare that he was Adam, no 
 living man, from his own personal knowledge, could 
 deny it. The names on signs here were almost all Rus- 
 sian, as well as the style of the people's dress. 
 
 I noticed in passing through Bulgaria, the water con- 
 veyed to several mills through races around hillsides 
 until it had reached the point to be applied when it was 
 emptied from the race into a hollow log about twenty 
 feet long through which it was precipitated against a 
 paddle wheel. 
 
 On the evening of April 18th, the snow was falling 
 and there was promise of a cold, sleepless night. I had 
 just fallen into a good slumber when quite a stir of 
 passengers awoke me. All must go with all th^ir bag- 
 gage again to the Bulgarian customs officers to be 
 
281 
 
 examined and have our passports restamped. My 
 shoes were thin, the rain and snow were faUing fast, 
 the fire had died out in the stove that was this time 
 under the coach, warming the car by a pipe that ran 
 through from bottom to top. So I moved slowly and 
 my baggage was rather heavy for a «?ingle man to carry. 
 There were no lights about and I was nearly lost in the 
 darkness, unable to speak a word comprehensible to the 
 people there. There were two or three doors or windows 
 lighted up by dim lamps within, and in one of these I 
 saw people moving about; to that one I went to find the 
 low counter for the reception of a traveller's baggage. 
 Passing these guardians at the outposts of the nation 
 who register every passenger's name, place from which 
 he comes, and to which he is going, (because 'eternal 
 vigilance is the price of liberty') and regaining my car, 
 I wrapped myself in my Arab bist, and slept till the 
 morning sun showed us the flushed river Save at the 
 junction of which with the Danube we see the beauti- 
 ful city of Belgrade, into which we run and get a fine 
 breakfast at the railroad restaurant. 
 
 Once more our luggage and passports have to be ex- 
 hibited, and once more on the cars we feel easy. We 
 cross a high trestle over the Save and stop at Semlin, 
 still in sight of Belgrade, and are ordered once more to 
 give the representatives of the Austrian Empire suffic- 
 ient reasons why we should hope to enjoy so great and 
 important a privilege as to pass through their country. 
 It is not enough that a man is of a lawful age, he must 
 be well recommended also. 
 
 From Semlin to Pesth the road soon crosses the Da- 
 nube and then runs north between the rivers Theiss and 
 Danube, about seven hours through a marshy plain all 
 18 
 
282 
 
 the way. Many ponds of water, miles in extent, and 
 not over two feet deep, lay along our way. The farm 
 house, all through Hungary, reminded me of those of 
 the Dutch I had been used to at home. The cattle are 
 some species of long-horns ; often their horns seemed to 
 be three feet long, or more. 
 
 We stopped only about an hour or two in 
 
 BUDA-PESTH, 
 
 and had only time to get an idea of the general appear- 
 ance of the Hungarian capital, and hurried aw^ay to 
 Vienna, Wien they call it in German. I found two 
 Hungarians aboard the cars w^ho had lived a long w^iile 
 in America. One was going to Vienna to see his wife 
 and baby. To hear him speak of his baby reminded 
 me of the father of " dat Young Yawcub Strauss." Fol- 
 lowing his advice I stopped at the hotel Wimberger, 
 near the West Bahnhof, and was w^ell pleased, even 
 when I reckoned with mine host and Co. Generally 
 two or three to a dozen servants are on hand when a 
 traveller leaves, each expecting a gratuity. 
 
CHAPTER XXXIII 
 
 VIENNA. 
 
 It would require a whole book to give any adequate 
 Idea of the " most splendid capitol of Europe." It is 
 an old city, originally settled by Celts, afterwards, it 
 became a Roman military station. Marcus Aurelius 
 died there. It was besieged by Attila and afterwards 
 by the Turks. It has been the seat of the house of 
 Hapsburg for more than six hundred years. 
 
 Vienna owes its beauty to a circumstance. It was 
 once a walled town, but all the space having been taken 
 for buildings and streets within the walls, the space 
 around them was taken until there was more of the city 
 outside than inside the walls. 
 
 The ancient city within the walls is called the Stadt^ 
 and numbers about 50,000 inhabitants, while the entire 
 city numbers about 1,000,000. As the bulk of the city 
 was thus exposed, it was determined about thirty-two 
 years ago to tear the wall away, the space occupied by 
 the Wall was converted int(j a street about two or three 
 hundred feet wide, laid ofi' into boulevards and street- 
 car lines. It is called Ring-Strasse. 
 
 The Stadt is the fashionable quarter. The Hof burg, 
 or imperial palace is there as well as those of the nobility. 
 There is the Graben or street containing the finest stores, 
 the banks, leading churches, museums, galleries, etc. 
 
 Around the Ring-Strasse (Ring Street) are situated the 
 National Museum, two large stone buildings covering 
 
284 
 
 about four acres each, and between them Maria Theresa 
 Platz, where her bronze statue is seated in an imperial 
 chair surrounded by statesmen, generals, poets, sculptors, 
 physicians and musicians as Loudon, Khevenhueler, 
 Lichtenstein, Daun, Kaminitz: Haugwitz, Mozart, Haydn 
 and others. 
 
 Next is the Treasury, after ^vhich is the Parliament 
 building, the facade of which presents three gables 
 adorned with statuary representing the country at peace: 
 these are supported by fifty Corinthian columns and 
 eight pilasters. Sloping walks, guarded by gens d'arms 
 go up to the great porches. The interior is arranged 
 after the same model as that of the United States at 
 Washington. The top is surmounted by eight chariots 
 drawm by two and four horses. It is said to have cost 
 8,000,000 florins. We noticed some master-pieces of 
 frescoing, done by Kruppen-Carl : Maria Theresa, after 
 the seven years' war, Founding of St. Stephens, and From 
 the Cradle to the Grave, the original, no doubt, from 
 which came the chromos and engravings of the same, so 
 numerous in the United States. Next to this is the 
 Rathhaus, or city hall, one of the finest in the world, 
 costing 17,000,000 florins, (a florin purchases about as 
 much labor as a dollar, but is less than 50 cts.) The 
 ceiling of one room, the grand reception hall, cost 
 48,000 florins and a single chandelier cost 35,000 florins. 
 The floor is made of oak mosaics oiled. 
 
 The Rathhaus is situated in the rear of a square laid 
 off in pretty walks and thick-set with shrubbery. 
 
 Next to the Rathhaus is the Votivkirche(Yoi\Ye church) 
 erected in commemoration of the Emperor's escape from 
 assassination in 1853. Very near by is the University. 
 The departments are all in the same room, and labeled 
 
285 
 
 Law, Theology, Medicine, &c. The Aula contains the 
 statues of Maria Theresa, and Rudolph, the lounder. 
 The library occupies nine stories, having floors of iron 
 bars about the size of plastering laths turned edgewise 
 to admit the free transmission of light. It is said to 
 contain 1,000,000 volumes, besides several thousand 
 incunabula (first books printed) some fine books of parch- 
 ment costing 1,400 florins per volume when new. They 
 contain very rare, highly colored pictures. All these are 
 seen in glass show-cases. Crossing the Ringstrasse, we 
 pass the New Opera, a very imposing structure exter- 
 nally, enter the Volksgarten, a small park containing the 
 Theseum, a small Temple built like the Temple of The- 
 seus at Athens, and to hold Canova's marble group oi 
 Theseus slaying the Minotaur. Passing through the 
 Volksgarten we see the Opera House, Bank, Academia, 
 Kunstler Haus, which is quite a picture gallery, filled 
 with visitors. One picture, by Falkenburg, unfolds to a 
 protestant philosophic mind one cause of the universal 
 social and moral obliquity that predominates here. The 
 picture is that of a young woman, with rather flushed 
 face, kneeling behind an old man clad in the attire of a 
 Catholic Priest ; his head inclines to catch the words 
 she tremblingly whispers in his ear; we pause to hear 
 them; ^^ Pater peccaviP'' (Father I have sinned). For- 
 giveness is easil}^ obtained, and the way is paved for 
 repetition. 
 
 The educating influence of such pictures in these con- 
 spicuous places is past estimating, especially when they 
 are praised by the great and learned. 
 
 The art galleries of Europe are largely what Catholic 
 priests have made them ; the people are very largely in- 
 fluenced by the galleries. If chastity is barely known 
 
286 
 
 it is because it is not desired. The innate sense of pu- 
 rity is assisted just enough by the church to forbid that 
 the sale of indulgences and the confessional should 
 cease, while human nature has all the encouragement 
 that the lewdest genius can suggest. It is a positive 
 injury for any one to visit these places whose character 
 is not formed. ^ ^ ^ ^ jyj^j^ ^f prestige 
 should cry out against the lewd in art, unless the mod- 
 esty that is praised be false and have no foundation in 
 nature and the fitness of things. We in America .-ire 
 following in the wake of our ancestors. Are we only 
 behind them in reality or following them astray? 
 
 French Infidelity, German Rationalism and Russian 
 Nihilism are only natural reactions — protests against 
 the unnatural and illegitimate assumptions and teach- 
 ings of Roman Catholicism in France and Germany 
 and Greek Catholicism in Russia. 
 
 Beside the Kunstler Haus stands the elegant Music 
 Freund, adorned with the marble busts of Gluck, Haydn, 
 Mozart, Beethoven, Schubert, Schumann, and many 
 others. A little further is Christ's church and Beetho- 
 ven's monument in Bronze. 
 
 All these places which I have mentioned are situated 
 on an arc of the circular street called the Ringstrasse, 
 and suggest how splendid an appearance it must present. 
 The whole of this street runs between lofty mansions, 
 hotels, museums, galleries and beergardens fitted up 
 like parks. 
 
 I attended service in St. Stephen's church, Stephen's 
 Platz or square, said to be one of the noblest gothic ed- 
 ifices in Europe. The Catholic worship is all alike to 
 me, and it is not necessary to explain it to those who 
 have seen it, and hardly possible to those who have not. 
 
287 
 
 I ascended the tower, over 450 feet high, there bemg 
 only two church steeples higher in the world, those of 
 Strasburg and Cologne. 
 
 I went to the Augustine church to see Canova's mon- 
 ument of the Archduchess Maria Christina, said to be 
 one of his noblest works. The tomb is triangular, and 
 built of marble. The inscription above the door is in 
 Latin — Uxori optim.^ Alburtus — to the most excellent wife 
 of Albert. Above this inscription an angel supports a 
 cartouch bearing her name and profile ; another ap- 
 proaches bearing a palm ; a female figure and two chil- 
 dren enter the door bearing an urn and wreaths ; to the 
 left another female figure leading an old man ; to the right 
 an angel reclines on a sleeping lion. The figures are life 
 size. In the Loretto Chapel of this church are the silver 
 urns that contain the hearts of many members of the 
 im^Dcrial family. 
 
 The Capuchin church contains two leaden boxes, in 
 which are the ashes of Maria Louisa and the Duke of 
 Keichstadt, second wife and only child of the great Na- 
 poleon, This unfortunate son fell as far short of as his 
 father transcended parental expectancy. Two squares 
 away, in the Treasury Museum, is the royal cradle^ 
 trimmed in satin, pearls and gold. 
 
 We noticed a barefoot (not an uncommon thing) Ca- 
 puchin priest sitting near the sidewalk reading on Sun- 
 day morning, and stopped to learn that he was so posing 
 to arrest passers by, who should thus be made to read 
 the conspicuous advertisement of a "panoptican show" 
 going on in rear of him. His trick was a success. 
 
 All these Austrians go to church. I noticed little 
 children, not over three and four years old, at church 
 and worshipping, just as the old people did, kneeling be- 
 
288 
 
 fore the crucifix<^s, images and paintings of Christ as 
 they passed. All attend early and say their appointed 
 number of prayers, and the remainder of the Sabbath, 
 say after nine or ten o'clock, is converted into a holiday. 
 They go by thousands into the country on excursions, 
 as hundreds of tram-cars i un daily, while all who do 
 not go to the country go to the Prater or other heergarten. 
 The Prater is the great place of concourse. I went out 
 Easter Monday, and I and a Presbyterian minister who 
 witnessed the scene, estimated that there were no less 
 than 100,000 people in the Prater that day. It is a 
 magnificent park, laid off into walks and drives, con- 
 taining many theatres, circuses, beer-gartens "flying 
 Dutchmen, lady orchestras and other catchpenny places 
 of amusement." 
 
 To say this number drank not less than 5,000 barrels 
 of beer that day would appear extravagant until we 
 state that we have it on good author ty that one beer-haus 
 in Munich consumes 1,000 barrels daily, a quart being 
 the smallest amount sold at one time. The average dai- 
 ly consumption is two quarts per capita for the entire 
 population. 
 
 A tram-car climbs from the city to the heights on the 
 west by means of a cog-wheel ; we ascended and had a 
 nice view of the city and her environs. It is novel to 
 an American to see little boys of 7, 8 and 9 years carry- 
 ing side arms and dressed in uniform, and of all ages 
 carrying canes. They appear to be following the pre- 
 cept as they understand it — train up a child in the w^ay 
 he should go and when he is old he will not depart 
 from it. They want a soldier out of every man, and so 
 begin on him in time. , And while these youngsters are 
 in the cities and towas of Europe flirting with city girls, 
 
289 
 
 their sisters are at home doing all the farm wcrk. It 
 was a daily sight in Vienna to see pretty girls driving 
 two-horse wagons from the country, when no doubt 
 their brothers were in the Austrian camp. It was the 
 same going from town to town on the cars — the women 
 were cultivating farms everywhere. Alas, when a nation 
 must thus waste its productive forces in order to feel 
 secure, while all the delicate sense of woman, that makes 
 her queen of home and clothes her with native charms, 
 is blunted by reducing her to a serf, with the task of 
 feeding the family and supplying tax sufficient for the 
 nourishment of her son, husband or brother and the 
 government besides. 
 
 It was really amusing to see large dogs hitched to 
 'One-horse wagons loaded with milk or vegetables, to 
 lighten the draught otherwise falling upon the market- 
 woman. 
 
 We took one morning to visit Shoenbrun, the magnifi- 
 cent summer palace of the Emperor two miles from Vi- 
 enna. We counted 165 windows on one side, which 
 enables one to have some idea of its size. It is in har- 
 mony, externally and internally, with the style of Francis 
 Joseph. All the entrances are guarded by gens d'armes, 
 and though in this is like all European palaces, we are 
 glad of the contrast in this respect between it and the 
 White House. 
 
 A pretty park, covering more than a thousand acres, 
 surrounds Shoenbrun. It is laid off' into many pretty 
 walks and drives and beautified by fountains filled with 
 fishes. Seats are placed at proper intervals, and it did 
 me good to see the poor people walking through these 
 royal gardens or resting by these beautiful spouting 
 fountains. One drive, about a mile in length, has a row 
 
290 
 
 of small oak trees on each side that seem to have beerb 
 cut perpendicularly by a great plane, and then about 
 twenty feet above the ground, by a horizontal j^lane ; 
 looking down this avenue from one end there seems to- 
 be a solid wall on each side of the drive ; not one twig 
 an inch long projects beyond the plane. 
 
 In one museum I saw figures in wax illustrating 
 many diseases. The flesh seemed to be purposely cut 
 away so as to expose the various organs aflected in these 
 diseases, and often many figures were reproduced to 
 show the progress of the diseases ; bones were broken, 
 often projecting through the flesh, polpoid growths were 
 being extracted ; eyes, ears, nose, throat and all were 
 diseased and being relieved. The nervous, veinous, ar- 
 terial and muscular svstems with the viscera were all 
 shown, each to itself. One hardly knows which to ad- 
 mire most, the one who dictated or the one w^ho exe- 
 cuted so skillfully for such an exhibition. 
 
 The squares of Vienna are adorned wdth many eques- 
 trian statues. Belvedere gallery is the largest in the 
 city and claimed my time one half day. Raphsel's Ma- 
 donna a la Verdure is here. Titian has a Madonna here, 
 Corregio a Ganymede and an lo. One of the best pieces 
 is an Altar piece representing the Catholic, Greek, Jew- 
 ish, Mohammedan and Brahmin faiths. 
 
 It has beeh the custom for more than 250 years for 
 the Austrian Emperors and their wives to wash the feet 
 of twelve old men and twelve old women of the city on 
 Friday before Easter, every year. They also send a 
 table (Thote dinner and a bottle of wine to those whose 
 feet they have washed. The suicide of the Kroniwintz 
 this year cast such gloom over the royal ilimily as to 
 forbid festivities, and the ancient custom was unob- 
 served. 
 
291 
 
 The Aiistrians are a healthy, good-natured looking^ 
 set, fond of show and pleasure, and mostly have blue 
 eyes. They are all Catholics, and badly priest-ridden. 
 I copy a few extracts from a confidential circular placed 
 in my hands : 
 
 The object of this communication is to give a few particulars 
 of a quiet work for the Lord which has been carried on for some 
 time at , province of Austria. The indiscriminate publi- 
 cation of details in Christian journals is an impossibility, as in 
 consequence of the lack of religious liberty in this country, all 
 aggressive evangelistic effort, especially that of an undenomina- 
 tional character, is practically prohibited, and it is only by act- 
 ing with the greatest prudence and by keeping carefully within 
 the letter of the law that such work can be done. We there- 
 fore earnestly request those Christians into whose hands this 
 may fall to regard the communications it contains as confidential, 
 and to exercise care that the circular may not fall into the hands 
 of Jesuit spies, who are constantly on the watch for any streak of 
 light on this priest-ridden land, and whose influence upon the 
 authorities and people at large is so great that they often suc- 
 ceed in putting an end to all efforts. 
 
 Public Gospel meetings as they can, be held in England,. 
 France and Italy, being forbidden in Austria, we can only have 
 private gatherings in our own dwelling, with a limited number 
 of people, whom we must invite personally by cards. 
 
 The great centre of attraction in our meetings is the Bible. By 
 far the majority of our attendants had never seen a copy of the 
 Word of God ere thev came to us. 
 
CHAPTER XXXTV. 
 
 THROUGH GERMANY, DOWN THE RHINE. 
 
 Our train rolled out of the grand Westhahnhoff on the 
 clear, crisp, frosty morning of April 24th, bound for 
 Frankfort-on-the-Main. I took a slow train because they 
 often stop over two, four and six hours, giving the hur- 
 ried tourist time to see many places he would have to 
 pass by if on the limited express ; also the slow trains 
 are used by the common people, while the fast trains are 
 chiefly used by the wealthy, and I wished to see all I 
 possibly could of the middle and lower classes. The 
 rich are about the same the world over. 
 
 Soon after leaving Vienna the mountains of vStyria 
 and T3T0I appeared far off to the left and covered with 
 snow seemed to lift a warning hand that Switzerland was 
 too cold and must be passed by. All day we fly over the 
 most pleasing landscapes ; all the land that is cleared is 
 in a fine state of cultivation. If it is clothed in verdure 
 every foot is occupied; if it is fallowed every inch is 
 broken ; if a canal passes through it does not monopo- 
 lize ; just so much as is necessary is taken for the water, 
 the remainder is utilized in some other way. If some is 
 left CO sustain its native forest, the decaying trees and 
 shrubs are removed and every part presents the finish of 
 .agricultural and horticultural skill, and nature herself 
 Jias woven these landscapes into lovely shapes as deft 
 
293 
 
 fingers do the drapery of dress. Baedeker says of this 
 section, "No other district in Germany offers such a va- 
 riety of charming scenery within so small a compass." 
 
 PASS A u, 
 
 the first town reached in Germany, at the confluence of 
 the Inn and Danube, is a beautiful town that really 
 looks more rustic than city-like. We spent an hour here 
 looking round and getting rid of Austrian florins and 
 hruetzers for German marks and 'pfennigs. 
 
 I met a gentleman here who spoke English ; we took a 
 compartment together to Nuremburgh. He was a native 
 Eusse, and spoke freely of the efforts made by Eussia to- 
 capture Servia and Bulgaria by flooding those sections 
 with political and religious (Greek) literature from Mos- 
 cow and other great centers of Eussia, and expressed 
 himself as of opinion that they were about ready to ally 
 themselves to Eussia. 
 
 We pass, near 
 
 REGENSBUKG, 
 
 the Walhalla or Temple of Fame, called also Deucher 
 Ehren, modeled after the Parthenon at Athens, built fifty 
 or sixty years ago by Louis I, of Bavaria. The entab- 
 lature is adorned Avith sculptures by Wagner, illustra- 
 ting Germany's ancient history. Below are a hundred 
 busts of eminent Germans. The grounds about the 
 building are admirably laid out, and command a fine 
 view. The whole is on a height overlooking the Danube 
 and city. 
 
 I stopped four hours in 
 
 KUREMBURG, 
 
 which gave me time to see the old high-gabled houses 
 
294 
 
 ynth stone balconies ; the double wall, 800 years old, 
 ^hose lofty tower called the Burg I climbed to get a 
 better view of the town and its environs. The Rathhaus, 
 or town hall, was about to be closed for the day, but a 
 few pfennigs turned the key backwards, and I saw with- 
 in. It is a rare building and has connection with famous 
 deeds. It contains Albert Durer's best works in fres- 
 coes, and a very fine painting of himself painting Max- 
 imilian the Great ; also a fine portrait of Faber, of lead 
 pencil notoriety. There is the lion of "Red-wine and 
 White-wine" fame, and I sat in the Royal chair of Leopold 
 I. The Shoene Brunnen, or beautiful fountain, deserves 
 the name. 
 
 In the valley of the Pegnitz, where across hroad meadow lands, 
 
 Else the blue Franconian mountains, Nuremberg, the ancient, stands. 
 
 Quaint old town of toil and traffic- quaint old town of art ana song. 
 Memories haunt thy painted gahles, like the rooks that round them throng; 
 
 Memories of the Middle Ages, when the Emperors, rough and hold. 
 Had their dwelling in thy Castle, time-defying, centuries old. 
 
 And thy brave and thrifty burghers boasted, in their uncouth rhyme, 
 •That their great imperial city stretched its hand through every clime. 
 
 Everywhere I see around me rise the wondrous world of Art, 
 
 Fountains wrought with richest sculpture standing in the common mart; 
 
 And above Cathedral doorways saints and bishops carved in stone, 
 By a former age commissioned as apostles to our own. 
 
 Here, when Art wast still religion, with a simple, reverent heart. 
 Lived and labored Albrecht Durer, the Evangelist of Art : 
 
 Here Hans Sachs, the cobbler-poet, laureate of the gentle craft. 
 
 Wisest of the Twelve Wise Masters, in huge folios sang and laughed. 
 
 But his house is now an ale-house, with a nicely sanded floor, 
 And a garland in the window, and his face above the door : 
 
 And at night the swart mechanic comes to drown hiscark and care, 
 •Quaffing ale from pewter tankards, in the master's antique chair. 
 
 JNot thy Councils, not thy Kaisers, win for thee the world's regard ; 
 But thy painter, Albrecht Diirer and Hans Sachs, thy cobbler-bard. 
 
 Thus, O, Nuremberg, a wanderer from a region far away. 
 
 As he paced thy streets and court-yards, sang in thought his careles lay : 
 
 Gathering from the pavement's crevice, as a floweret of the soil, 
 
 The nobility of labor— the long pedigree of toil. —Longfellow. 
 
295 
 
 From Nuremburg we ran down to 
 
 WURZBURG 
 
 •on the Main, reaching there a short while before day- 
 Having to leave at sunrise, and as there was a good res- 
 taurant in the Station, I did not go to a hotel ; here I 
 received the first native hospitality I had known for 
 many weeks. An attendant at the depot invited me to 
 his room and supplied me with water, soap, towel and a 
 comb, which conduct I supposed was designed to secure 
 a small perquisite; this he refused, however, when of- 
 fered, and only received it when I insisted. I was anx- 
 ious to go across the Main and visit the monument of 
 Walter of Vogelweid, the Minesinger of whose will Long- 
 fellow says : 
 
 "And lie gave the monks liis treasures, 
 Gave them all with this behest : 
 
 They should feed the birds at noontide 
 Daily on his place of rest ; 
 
 Saying, 'From these wandering minstrels 
 I have learned the art of song ; 
 
 Let me now repay the lessons 
 They have taught so well and long.' 
 
 "Thus the bard of love departed ; 
 
 And, fulfilling his desire, 
 On his tomb the birds were feasted 
 
 By the children of the choir. 
 
 "Thus they sang their merry carols — 
 Sang their lauds on every side ; 
 
 And the name their voices uttered 
 Was the name of Vogelweid." 
 
 The town is also noted for the manufacture of fine 
 wines from the vineyards seen along the railway, and 
 for the medical depai'tment of its University. There 
 were three Japanese students in the Station who had 
 been smoking and drinking beer all night. 
 
296 
 
 We dashed down and across the Main, through tun- 
 nels, over bridges, through green fields and forests of 
 maple, cypress and oak, and reached 
 
 FRANKFORT, 
 
 the home of one of the Rothchilds and birthplace of 
 Goethe, at 8 o'clock, a. m. 
 
 The Ariadne, Danneker's masterpiece, in Bethmann's 
 Museum, is a solid piece of Marble representing this 
 bcMutiful daughter of Crete as left by Theseus and 
 found by Bacchus, seated on a lion. She sits sidewise 
 on the beast looking over her right shoulder. The poet- 
 sculptor clothes her with that happy freedom from care 
 that we welcome in any face, and that laxity of restraint 
 for which the artist refuses any substitute. Leaving the 
 Ariadneum I mistook the directions of the keeper, and 
 was soon lost ; having only my German to fall back 
 upon, I asked many a time, the best I could, the way 
 to the Stiidel Gallery, and sometimes got plain direc- 
 tions, accompanied by appropriate motions of the head 
 and hands, the latter of which conveyed more intelli- 
 gence to my mind than the best German : often I would 
 pause in front of a fellow -pedestrian with my stereo- 
 typed. Wo ist Stadel Museum? He would very often look 
 straight at me, as if astonished, and reply : '' Ich verstehe 
 nicht, mein HeiT^ " I do not comprehend, sir." Again I 
 approached some one who was evidently a stranger, like 
 myself, he would merely shrug his shoulders and pass 
 on. (All Europeans shrug the shoulders when asked a 
 confusing question.) 
 
 " To Sit on rocks, to muse o'er flood and fell, 
 
 To slowly trace the forest's shady scene, 
 Where things that own not man's dominion dwell. 
 
 And mortal foot hath ne'er or rarely been, 
 
297 
 
 To climb the trackless mountain all unseen, 
 
 With the wild flocks that never need a fold 
 Alone o'er steeps and foaming falls to lean— 
 
 This is not solitude, 'tis but to hold 
 Converse with nature's charms, to view her stores unrolled- 
 
 " But in the city's hum, the din, the shock of men, 
 
 To hear, to see, to feel, and to possess 
 And roam along the world's tired denizen, 
 
 With none to bless us, none whom we can bless. 
 Minions of splendor shrinking from distress, 
 
 None who, with kindred consciousness endued. 
 
 None who if we were not would smile the less 
 Of all who followed, flattered, sought and sued. 
 
 This is to be alone ; this, this is solitude." 
 
 I instinctively carry my reckoning, like the lower an- 
 imals, but lost it altogether in Frankfort, and only began 
 to find myself after I had gone over the "Cock and 
 Devil " bridge, as it is called, because the architect con- 
 signed the first living thing that should cross it, to the 
 bottomless pit ; this proved to be a cock, a large figure 
 of w^hich is placed on one of the pillars that extends 
 several feet above the floor, also one of Charlemagne is 
 near by. Like the Seine at Paris, and the Thames at 
 London, so at Frankfort the Main runs between stone 
 walls and over a macadamized bed. Once over this 
 bridge I had to go down the river half a mile to the mu- 
 seum, and the tops of steeples and other high objects all 
 became so adjusted in my mind that I had no farther 
 difficulty. 
 
 The Stadel gallery contains several Madonnas (por- 
 traits of the Virgin Mary) w^hich are classed among 
 noted paintings, an altar-piece by Fra Angelico, and 
 imitations of the Venus de Medici, Laocoon, Wrestlers, 
 &c. The Brazen Shield of Achilles by Schwanthaler is 
 a master-piece. A very fine painting of the Ten Vir- 
 gins must have suggested the lines of Owen Meredith : 
 19 
 
298 
 
 *' One still as death, hollowed her hand about her lamp, 
 
 For fear some motion of the midnight, or her treath 
 
 Should fan out the last flicker. 
 
 Rosy clear the light oosed through her fingers o'er her face. 
 
 There was a ruined beauty hovering there. 
 
 Over deep pain, and dashed with lurid glare— 
 
 A waning gloom." 
 
 The Kaisersaal, which contains frescoe portraits of all 
 the German emperors from Konrad I, 911, to Francis II, 
 1806, and the clock given by Napoleon I, claimed me 
 an hour, after which I went to the Dom to see the Dead 
 Christ, by Van Dyck, and an altar-piece in wood, repre- 
 senting the crucifixion. I made a hurried visit to the 
 beautiful Palmgarten, the monuments of Schiller and 
 Gutenberg, and left for Heidelberg, passing Darmstadt, 
 in which one sees from the cars the war monument of 
 Ludwig Einster, 1870-1. 
 
 Almost every foot of lar d is cultivated from Darm- 
 stadt to Heidelberg ; it is rented out in small patches ; 
 often one farmer has a lot fifty yards wide and three 
 hundred long in wheat, beside that and about the same 
 size, one is newly ploughed for corn or some other crop. 
 The land for many miles is laid off this w^ay, and I was 
 told that one man had possession of only a few acres. 
 In the distance to our left several towers rise on the 
 heights. 
 
CHAPTER XXXV. 
 
 HEIDELBERG, WORMS, DOWN THE RHINE 
 TO COLOGNE. 
 
 At nightfall the old University town of * 
 
 HEIDELBERG 
 
 is reached, made up of 16,000 Protestants, 9,000 Cath- 
 olics and 2,000 Jews. After a good night's rest I took 
 a guide and went to the Molkencur, a very high moun- 
 tain overlooking the city and valley. My guide pointed 
 out one of the largest cement factories in the world, the 
 valley over the Neckar where the students light duels 
 two or three times a week, a church half Catholic and 
 half Protestant, each denomination worshipping in it 
 every Sabbath, and the old castle, which has been de- 
 stroyed by the French, by lightning, and is now in the 
 hands of the ever successful destroyer. Time. Heavy 
 fogs advised us not to ascend to Konig^s Stohl, as the view 
 would not repay the toil. 
 
 We will go down from this splendid observatory to look 
 through the historic castle. It is reached by crossing a 
 draw-bridge, over a very large moat, then through the 
 gate in which hangs still the ponderous portcullis, and 
 we are in the open court, where sixteen of the electors of 
 Palatine, done in stone, look down from their niches in 
 the lofty walls. In a museum of antiquities, seen for 
 twenty pfennigs, there are many old swords and all the 
 
300 
 
 machinery of ancient battle, keys almost as heavy as a 
 pick, mugs, moneys, postillion boots truly monstrous 
 model of the castle Molkencur, Konigs Stohl and plan of 
 the city made of cork by a cook, securing for him a for- 
 tune. Below is the great Tun, holding 50,000 gallons 
 of wine ; it has eighteen hoops 8x10 inches, the two at 
 the ends being 8x14 inches. It has been filled three 
 times, the last time wasj'in^ 1769, by Charles Theodore 
 elector of Bavaria. On the top is a platform where 
 about six or eight persons can dance, which they did 
 on the occasion of filling the Tun. 
 
 The great university founded by Rupert Carolo, elec- 
 tor of Palatine in 1487, contains his bust in the aula, or 
 assembly hall. Around the front of the gallery are the 
 names of many of their noted professors, while the ceil- 
 ing has female figures representing Theology, Law, Med- 
 icine and Philosophy. 
 
 I w^ent from H. to Maintz, stopping two hours in 
 
 WOKMS 
 
 to see the monument of Martin Luther on the Luther 
 Platz. He is standing with upturned face on which is 
 depicted intelligence, conviction, courage, purpose. In 
 his left hand he holds the Bible ; his right is closed and 
 rests on the Bible ; below him are cut in the stone the 
 words : 
 
 Hier Stelie Icli. 
 Icli Kann niclit Anders. 
 Gott Hilf mir ! Amen ! 
 
 which mean : Here I stand. I cannot retract. God help 
 me ! Amen ! 
 
 The artist was most happy in the execution of his 
 
301 
 
 task ; one seems to be in the presence of the living hero 
 of 1521. I saw nothing else while traveling that so 
 electrified me as did this statue. 
 
 There is no grander exhibition on earth than a man 
 to whom God has committed a trust not recognized by 
 his cotemporaries perhaps, but known to himself, and 
 having the courage of his convictions amid all opposi- 
 tion and persecution, intent on doing his part at all 
 hazards. Ko doubt the world is a greater debtor to 
 moral than to physical courage. It is in such birth- 
 throes that correct thought and right sentiment burst the 
 prison bars of dogmatism and custom and leap into life 
 to emancipate nations and races. 
 
 It is a very interesting ride of an hour to 
 
 MAINTZ. 
 
 Farm houses are thick ; gardens, pastures and stock are 
 fine ; at every station country lasses unload large cans 
 of milk for the city. A bar or rail is put up at every 
 railroad crossing, and the sentry presents arms while the 
 train is passing. Every private soldier salutes every 
 officer he passes, though they may be on opposite sides of 
 very wide streets, filled with carriages or wagons. This 
 often requires several hundred salutations a day. 
 
 Maintz is one of the best fortified cities in Europe, 
 and contains many fine monuments. The Cathedral is 
 said to be the richest in monuments of any in Europe. 
 I only took time to hurry through it. The Tablet to 
 Fastrada, wife of Charlemagne, and Schwan thaler's 
 monument to Frauenlob, the pious minstrel of the Holy 
 Virgin, were all I noticed. Cars run on both sides of the 
 Rhine, but we preferred to take a steamer. The Rhine 
 
302 
 
 has been written about so miicli that I hesitate to say 
 anything ; the scenery to Bonn, birthplace of Beethoven 
 and seat of a University, is wild and attractive ; the 
 perpendicular hills are crowned with old towers, the 
 sloping ones ornamented with terraces, growing fruits 
 and grapes. The Ehine and its fels and towns have 
 many a legend of ancient hero and heroine, as Siegfried 
 and Brunhilde, of Einbod and the Maiden offered to the 
 monster of Drachelf els and Lurlei, Bishop Hatto and the 
 Mouse Tower, Hans Winkelsee, and scores of others. In 
 all their romances and songs the river of Germany has 
 mingled its "chorus sweet and clear." 
 
 Across the Ehine Julius Ca?sar built his bridge, and 
 along its banks history has been making ever since. 
 
 We reached 
 
 COLOGNE 
 
 about sundown. I stopped within one square of the 
 Cathedral, thought by some to be the grandest Gothic 
 structure in the world, being 500 feet high ; it has one 
 door or portal (on the south) that cost $500,000 ; it has 
 a chapel called the Chapel of the Three Kings, said to 
 contain the bones of the ]VIagi I 
 
 I attended the Church of England services on Sun- 
 day, which seemed designed for, as they were only attend- 
 ed by visitors. The Sabbath is used as a holiday, after 
 the early morning service, say nine to ten o'clock, in 
 Cologne as in Vienna. I went to the Cathedral before 
 breakfast on Sunday to find it almost filled at that early 
 hour. They had the finest music I ever heard, which 
 was kept up nearly all day ; when one division of the 
 choir would sing until exhausted, another would be 
 called on. 
 
303 
 
 I went to St. Andrew's (Catholic) Church before 
 breakfast Monday mornmg. About 200 children were 
 at prayers, with about a dozen ladies, all led by a little 
 girl not over ten years old. She would utter several in- 
 vocations, pause and be followed by the congregation 
 repeating the last sentence or uttering a responsive 
 prayer. They had stepped into this church on thdir 
 way to school, as they do every morning, and as their 
 minds are developed their hearts and habits are fixed 
 about the altars of the church. 
 
 The church of St. Peter has an altar-piece, Rubens' 
 "Crucifixion of St. Peter," which is thought to be very 
 superior ; the head is downwards. Near by, at No. 10 
 Sternengasse, is shown the house in which Peter Paul 
 Rubens was born, 1577, and in which Maria de Medici 
 died in 1642, having been driven by the heartless Rich- 
 eheu, for whom she had obtained the cardinalate from 
 her Parisian home. 
 
 The Rathhaus, about six hundred years old, is a splen- 
 did city hall, dedicated to the Caesars. The bronze 
 equestrian statue of William III, places him high above 
 the men who graced and supported his regime, and oth- 
 ers of the cult of Blucher and Von Humboldt. 
 
 At 12 M., on the day after reaching Cologne we, took 
 the cars for 
 
 BRUSSELS, 
 
 arriving at 9 o'clock the same evening, passing on the 
 way Aix-la-Chrqjelle, the birth-place and favorite resi- 
 dence of Charlemagne, and where for several hundred 
 years after his death the German emperors were 
 crowned. 
 
 At this place both Charlemagne and his wife Fastrada 
 
304 
 
 died. He was buried in the octagonal nave built by 
 
 himself in a marble chair. About a mile or two from 
 
 the railway one can see the Frankenbiirg, a hunting-seat 
 
 of the great Charles. It is said the water surrounding 
 
 the Castle was a lake, into which his wife's ring was 
 
 thrown. 
 
 " Thou knowest ttie story of her ring, 
 How, when the court went back to Aix, 
 Fastrada died : and how the King 
 Sat watching by her night and day. 
 Till into one of the blue lakes. 
 Which water that delicious land 
 They cast the ring drawn from her hand ; 
 And the great monarch sat serene 
 And sad beside the fated shore. 
 Nor left the land forevermore." 
 
 — Golden Legend. 
 
 We pass Liege, a factor}^ town, and the first in Bel- 
 gium. A train with 200 passengers dashed in from >Spa, 
 the oldest watering place in Europe, of any note. As it 
 only costs from one to three cents per mile to travel in 
 Belgium, and as it is the most populous country in the 
 world for its size, there is much travel. Chaude Fon- 
 taine, another watering place, was on the line of our 
 road and looks somewhat like Piedmont Springs, in 
 Burke County, N. C. A large new hotel was in course 
 of erection. The entire face of the country in Belgium 
 is as pretty as a picture. The morning after reaching 
 Brussels I went out to see the field of 
 
 WATERLOO, 
 
 twelve miles from the city. A large mound has been 
 built in the center of the field, about 800 feet west of 
 where Wellington's headquarters were during the fatal 
 day, and very near the position of the impregnable 
 square, behind which was the road into which fell 
 
 "Rider and horse, friend and foe, in one red burial blent." 
 
305 
 
 The top of the mound is reached by ascending 200 
 steps. It is surmounted by a granite base of huge pro- 
 portions, on which stands a cast lion looking towards 
 France with one fore-foot resting on a globe. This sig- 
 nifies so much to the Frenchman that my guide said 
 -only few of them visit Waterloo at all. I was very for- 
 tunate in having a guide well posted on the history of 
 the movements made by all the leaders in that crisis of 
 the world's history. 
 
 Napoleon had approached to within a few hundred 
 yards of Wellington's position, when Blucher arrived. 
 Wellington had all the advantage in position from one 
 side of the field to the other. But such battles are de- 
 termined by the Friend of the nations and not by the 
 " heaviest artillery." 
 
 Some one has said that Napoleon never wrote an im- 
 portant document without using the word " glory," as if 
 that were his talisman, and Wellmgton likewise always 
 used the word " duty." And on this field of carnage 
 the world has been taught the superiority and triumph 
 .of duty over glory. 
 
CHAPTER XXXVI. 
 
 THREE WEEKS IN LONDON. 
 
 Leaving Brussels, one hour sufficed to reach Antwerp^ 
 a well fortified town on the Scheldt, on the borders of 
 Holland. Xext morning at six we were seated in an 
 English railway carriage on British soil and enjoyed a 
 peace of mind that was new. I felt like talking much^ 
 like one after a long fast enjoys a sumptuous table 
 d'hote, and indulged freely with a Londoner and an 
 English-speaking gentleman from Vienna. The country 
 along our route was cleared of timber, as in most Euro- 
 pean States, but the farm-houses and farms were more 
 like those I had been used to at home. Soldiers ubiqui- 
 tous on the Continent were missed here. 
 
 At nine o'clock I stood on one of the streets of the 
 busiest metropolis of the world, inquiring for a 'bus that 
 would take me to Smith's Temperance Hotel, Southamp- 
 ton Kow. I was directed to go to the Bank, near by. 
 There are scores of banks in London, but only one is 
 known as "the Bank." From that point omnibusses go 
 in all directions and every one or two minutes, for one 
 penny a mile. Every one goes loaded, and the number 
 of pedestrians does not appear to be diminished. In fact 
 so dense is the travel on the main thoroughfares that it 
 is often difficult to leave a store for want of a place 
 in the throng, but once in one is moved along almost in- 
 voluntarily. This is true any day on Cheapside, the 
 
307 
 
 Strand, Oxford street or Holborn. On th^e streets po- 
 lice are stationed at every crossing in the center of the 
 street to direct vehicles to the left side, order them to 
 stop and move along, and give every one a fair opportu- 
 nity to change his location, a privilege his individual 
 self-assertion is often inadequate to obtain. 
 
 "The thing that most astonished me about London, and that 
 I had been least prepared to see there, was the amazing activity 
 in the streets. A New Yorker born and bred, who has seen the 
 principal American cities, fancies that there can be nothing in 
 the world like Fulton street and Broadway. 
 
 "London is full of Fulton streets and Broadways, and in them 
 and in all the other streets the cabs and hansoms fly about in 
 such a hot and apparently reckless way that I always felt while 
 I was there that the only reason I did not read of a hundred 
 'run over' accidents every morning in the papers, was that 
 it would be doing violence to the organic principles of the Lon- 
 don press to print the news. I confess I was more than half 
 afraid to cross the crowded streets, and with a fear which is en- 
 gendered in New York in few places and on few occasions. I 
 was assured by the citizens that they are all so accustomed to 
 project their coat tails at right angles to their bodies and to in- 
 voke divine aid between the flying hoofs of horses, whenever 
 they need to cross a street, and that they are as adept at it as 
 an American lightning rod man is at dodging missiles. Yet I 
 observe that Dickens, in his Dictionary of London, thinks it 
 worth while to suggest that the only way to go from curb to 
 curb is to make up your mind what course y^u will take and 
 then stick to it, because then the London cabbies will divine 
 your intentions. To change your mind while en route is to 
 confuse the cabmen, and make your return to America be in the 
 form ol freight. Then, again, I found that in the Western end 
 of the Strand — that is down by Temple Bar and the Law Courts 
 — 200 more or less mangled bodies are sent to the Charing Cross 
 Hospital every year." 
 
 There are several elevated railways, and London un- 
 derground is said to be honey-combed with railroads. 
 There is one place where 1200 trains pass daily, or one 
 
308 
 
 nearly every minute. These are necessary to accommo- 
 date the vast numbers of a city that is a microcosm. 
 
 "It contains more Roman Catholics than Rome itself; more 
 Jews than Palestine ; more Irish than Dublin ; more Scotchmen 
 than Edinbur^: ; more Welchmen than Cardiff; has a birth in 
 every five minutes and a death in every eight minutes ; has 
 seven accidents in it every day in its 7,000 miles of streets ; has 
 124 persons every day, and 45,000 annually, added to its popula- 
 tion; has 117,000 habitual criminals on its police register, and 
 has 88.000 drunkards annually brought before the magistrates*" 
 
 There are 5,500,000 inhabitants occupying nearly 
 790 square miles. Allowing a third, for streets, parks, 
 gardens and the Thames, there would be 17 persons to 
 the acre. If four houses were built on every acre, there 
 would be a family of four to every house, aud enough 
 over to make four cities as large as Raleigh. As many 
 of the wealthy have large yards and gardens and small 
 families, one -can conjecture how densely must be popu- 
 lated the poorer districts ; often fifty or more are crowd- 
 ed into one tenement dwelling. This is a fruitful source 
 of both crime and disease, and the wiser heads are trying 
 to devise means for the amelioration of these evils. 
 "What shall we do with our cities?" has long been a 
 question among European philanthropists and econo- 
 mists. Investigation reveals that there are no people in 
 London whose ancestry can be traced back four succes- 
 sive generations in the city. One way of checking the 
 evil is to open up large public parks and gardens, but 
 the desire to be near their work and to diminish rent on 
 the part of the poor, and the increased income from 
 rents, influences the wealthy to crowd as many as possi- 
 ble into every house that is for rent, and thus misfortune 
 and Mammon sway to the ignoring of the good laws or- 
 
309 
 
 dained of God for man's well beiug. Those who most 
 need to obey the laws of health are ignorant of them, 
 and have not the power if they had the wisdom tO observe 
 them. Those Avho know of them and have the power to 
 see them observed more generally, have not the disposi- 
 tion to help any but themselves. 
 
 They have in London what is known as the "sweating 
 system," by w^hich is meant that a person who has credit 
 gets work from tailors or others, and gets those persons 
 to do this work at a very small price, who have no credit 
 and who, to make their wages cover their necessary ex- 
 penses of living, crowd together in tenement houses 
 until the heat radiated from their bodies, and the air, 
 robbed of oxygen by frequent inhalation, make a condi- 
 tion worthy of the appellation. It presents one of the 
 evils to be combatted by philanthropists in the over- 
 crowded city. 
 
 " The report of the Committee of the House of Lords on 
 Sweating has just been presented. It is affirmed that the chief 
 factors in the Sweating System are not middle-men or foreign 
 labor or the extensive use of machinery. The system is shown 
 on the contrary to be the issue of inefficiency in the class of 
 workers, early marriages, and the tendency of the residuum in 
 large towns to form a helpless community and to accept a low 
 standard of life. But, in the main, the system is ascribed to the 
 excessive supply of unskilled labor, and the work of married 
 women, who are willing to employ the intervals of domestic- 
 duty at a low rate of wages which to single women would mean 
 starvation. The report places little reliance on legislation, 
 though it suggests that all home-workers should be registered 
 and open to authorized inspection, but it looks hopefully to- 
 ward an increased sense of responsibility in the employer and 
 improved habits on the side of the employed. Surely John 
 Wesley's panacea of all evils, social, industrial, political is still 
 the true and only one — the spreading of scriptual holiness 
 throughout the land." 
 
810 
 
 There are many institutions built by charity, for poor 
 children. I saw representatives from sixty-six institu- 
 tions for the governing and training of destitute and 
 criminal children. It was in St. James' Hall. They 
 numbered 600, and were trained to sing, march, and 
 perform in pantomime with almost perfect precision. I 
 also attended a meeting of the " London Society for Pre- 
 vention of Cruelty to children " held at the Mansion 
 House, with the announcement that " The Right Hon. the 
 Lord Mayor will Presided This announcement always 
 secures a full attendance. The meeting was addressed 
 by H. E. Cardinal Manning, (whose appearance and 
 bearing are very similar to those of Dr. Closs, during 
 life), Hon. A. F. Mundilla, M. P., A. K. Rollit, M. P., 
 and others. 
 
 The sights of London are too numerous to be cata- 
 logued, a list of the most interesting is kept at all the 
 hotels for gratuitous distribution; to write them up 
 would be to write almost a history of England. The 
 May Meetings, including over 130 different Societies for 
 the good of Christian, Jewish and heathen men, women 
 and children were holding their annual meetings, and 
 were of great interest because I wished to learn how the 
 English churches met and carried their responsibilities. 
 
 As Bishop Marvin said, the English have their own 
 way of doing things. At all of the meetings w^hich I at- 
 tended, about twenty, everything was cut and dried be- 
 forehand. The questions to be discussed were printed. 
 The mover of every motion, and the one appointed to 
 second it, and the words of the motion were all on a 
 printed circular. The speech of the putter of the mo- 
 tion was sometimes read. No place is allowed for ex- 
 temporaneous speechifying. Generally effort was made 
 
311 
 
 to secure the endorsement of my Lord, so and so, by 
 putting him in the chair or announcing that he would 
 be present. 
 
 These Lords and bishops have a monopoly and are 
 conservative enough to keep as far as possible the first 
 places at a distance from all whose qualification to fill 
 them comes by any other way than by inheritance or 
 court favor. 
 
 They put on the greatest imaginable stiffness and be- 
 have as if they thought the matter at hand were worthy 
 to monopolize the world of thought for a decade or two. 
 The audience appear to accept the interpretation put 
 upon it and cheer to the echo such periods as are com- 
 monly used all over our country, and cry " Hear, hear," 
 to ordinary truisms. Their preparation always prevents 
 confusion and I judge they moved so slowly only be- 
 cause their common people were so far behind. In the 
 matter of collections, however, they are ahead of us. I 
 never attended any service in church or public hall that 
 a collection was not taken, nearly every one contribut- 
 ing. 
 
 What I have said does not imply that Great Britian 
 has not led the world in literature, poetry and govern- 
 ment, as well as in religion. She has. If her form of 
 government is not equal to ours, in our judgment it is 
 in their opinion superior, and may be superior when we 
 consider the character of the subject. Our forefathers 
 brought away the best conceptions of goverment then ex- 
 isting and the best class of citizens the world could thne 
 furnish with which to maintain such a government 
 when it should be formed. 
 
 England has done more than we in the matters men- 
 tioned above, but she has been many centuries at it. I 
 
312 
 
 told a patriotic Briton that we expected to have as raan5r 
 Poets and Literati after awhile as England. He said we 
 did not have one whose name was as great, and who 
 had lived before the world so long as Shakespeare. I 
 told him just to .wait until we lived to be as old a peo- 
 ple as the British and he would see what he would see ! 
 
 At these meetings it was plain to be seen that a war 
 was going on between the established church and the 
 dissenters. At several meetings of the church of Eng- 
 land in Exeter Hall, whenever evangelistical efforts 
 er e reported such as they were driven to adopt by dis- 
 senters there would be cheers loud and long. Frequent 
 disparaging references were made to dissenters, while the 
 dissenters were loud in their complaints against an op- 
 pressive system that had to be supported by all the 
 people, many of whom did not believe in its polity, nor 
 all of its doctrines. In Joseph Parker's church an or- 
 der of court that had been issued for selling some poor 
 man's property for taxes due the established church was 
 exhibited and much enthusiasm aroused against such a 
 condition of things. Rev. Mr. Cleal said in City Temple 
 at this same meeting that he had known the names of 
 pupils taken in the day schools to compel them to at- 
 tend the Sunday Schools of the English church. He 
 said " Our opponents are hard to oppose because they 
 drift in the spirit of the age." 
 
 The dissenters are hopeful of a change and are faith- 
 fully bearing the testimony of Jesus. 
 
 There are many Churchmen who are uneasy lest the 
 Pope shall make great inroads into England, he has 
 already said: "England is doing well." The "Tract 
 Movement," converted thousands to Romanism. The 
 Queen's private Sacretary is a Catholic, and wise people 
 
313 
 
 "know what that means. The alarm has been great 
 enough to call forth much comment in the Churchman, 
 specially on the occasion of Her Majesty's visit to a con- 
 vent while in Spain, and a poem which had a wide cir- 
 culation, a stanza or two of which I copy : 
 
 To-day the curse is in his keart. 
 
 The while with /z>j he blesses ; 
 Infidel— Godless England sees 
 
 No harm in his caresses ; 
 The maudlin men of " Modern Thought " 
 
 Can grip no Standard truth ; 
 And Jesuits in the English Church 
 
 Have Romanised our youth : 
 The very throne has howed itself 
 
 At Leo's trampling feet ; 
 
 Can God do otherwise than let 
 
 Such Sin with sorrow meet ? 
 
 Beckon him on ! ! This blessin^-Po^e, 
 
 .He holds Victoria inle, 
 And fain would give her " Moonlight " fare. 
 
 As in the Sister Isle ; 
 " No faith with heretics," is still 
 
 The Papal undertone ; 
 And Englishmen are fools, who think 
 
 That Rome has kinder grown ; 
 " Kill, kill," She says ; let Manning's words 
 
 Our sad attention win. 
 
 Or li/e or liberty gOCS OUt 
 
 When Leo's power comes in. 
 
 Victoria has a hard time, I presume ; while everything- 
 nearly seemed to indicate the greatest love and devo- 
 tion. Each party is very jealous, and objects to any 
 patronage being given to the others. Her policy seems 
 to be to do at Rome as the Romans do. In Scotland she 
 attends the Presbyterian church, in Spain the Catholic, 
 at home the Ej^iscopal. 
 
 One can see why she should defer to so great an extent 
 
 to the Catholic church, when one remembers that Ireland 
 
 is so largely Catholic and that 50,000 of her troops are 
 20 "^ 
 
314 
 
 Catholic, besides tliose who live on English soil, and the 
 further fact that her Majesty's interest in the East is 
 protected by the Catholic in the jealousy he bears towards 
 the Greek church of Russia and the Slavonic States. 
 All eastern people are ruled through their religion, and 
 to be stable in power the monarch must properly esti- 
 mate all the factors involved in the problem of ruling. 
 The Queen can afford to smile upon the church of Eome 
 for the returns. The leaders of Society forgive her if 
 their principles oppose, for their standing depends upon 
 her patronage as well. And if the Jesuit is far more 
 diligent and successful in improving every occasion than 
 the Protestant, nobody deserves so much blame as this 
 same fault-finding Protestant. The propagation of any 
 religion depends upon the operation of natural laws (on 
 the human side) which are as much the property of one 
 individual or sect as of another. 
 
 • Protestantism needs to learn the value of printer's 
 ink, as the Politician and Jesuit know it, as well as the 
 worth of devotion to the task in hand. 
 
 Mr. Spurgeon has learned this lesson and not only has 
 written a great many books, but has organized a tho- 
 rough system of Colportage, the annual meeting of which 
 it was my privilege to attend in his Tabernacle ; it is 
 working well. Mr. Wesley learned it, and wrote and 
 sold books — cheap books — with what result is known too 
 well to be repeated here. 
 
CHAPTER XXXVIL 
 
 SIGHTS IN LONDON. 
 
 At several meetings of the Wesleyau Methodists I 
 learned that they are trying to carry their share of 
 responsibility in supplying the people with the gospel. 
 I was present at the opening of Cleveland hall, which is 
 a Methodist church. The same meeting was protracted 
 and many souls converted. 
 
 The West End Mission is supplied by Kevs. Hugh 
 Price Hughes, who is second only to Spurgeon as a pop- 
 ular leader among dissenters, and Mark Guy Pearce, his 
 colleague, both of whom I heard preach. 
 
 I attended several services in City Road Chapel, in the 
 church of John Wesley. It now has two preachers, one 
 of whom, the Rev. Mr. Murrill, kindly showed me 
 through Mr. Wesley's house. His study was a small 
 room not over 7x8 feet. In it is the quaint old teapot 
 from which he gave his preachers a cup of tea on every 
 Sunday morning ; part of the spout is broken off and on 
 each side is burned in blue letters a stanza used as a 
 blessing before and after meals. One reads as follows: 
 
 "Be present at our table, Lord- 
 Be here, he everywhere adored, 
 And in thy mercy grant that we 
 In paradise may sup with thee." 
 
 The room in which Mr. Wesley died is a small room. 
 
INTERIOR OF CITY ROAD CHAPEL. 
 
318 
 
 In it are his writing desk and libraiy, his clock and his 
 chair. Mr. Murrill said that Cyrus Field had offered 
 $2,500 for the writing desk and $500 for the teapot ; 
 but no sum could purchase them. I was present at a 
 tea-party in the parlor of the church and was invited to 
 address the meeting. I also made a talk to their Sunday 
 School, and preached in the evening in the Mission Chap- 
 el. In the rear of the church is Wesley's tomb, which is 
 very unpretentious, consisting of a base about four by 
 eight feet and about four feet high ; on this rests a shaft 
 six or seven feet high, with the single word Wesley on 
 one side. Since my visit a tomb like the accompanying 
 cut has been built. Around him lie Clark, Watson, 
 Benson, and many others noted in Methodist history. 
 Tablets to the memory of the Wesley s, Fletcher, Dr.. A. 
 Clarke, Joseph Benson, Coakeand others, are in the walls 
 of the church behind the altar and on either side. 
 
 Across the street is Bunhill Fields Cemetery, once the 
 chief burial place for non-conformists, but now disused. 
 It contains the tomb of Watts, DeFoe, Bunyan, whose 
 tomb has the figure of "Pilgrim," with a load upon his 
 back. A large upright marble slab, near the centre of 
 the grounds, contains the following : 
 
 HERE LIES THE BODY OF 
 
 MRS. SUSAN^^A WESLEY, 
 
 WIDOW OF REV. S. WESLEY, M. A.. 
 
 YOUN"GEST DAUGHTER OF REV. S. ANXESLEY, D. D.y 
 
 MOTHER OF XII^'ETEEJf CHILDREN, 
 
 OF WHOM THE MOST EMIXE^^T WERE JOHIs" AND 
 
 CHARLES, THE FORMER FOUNDER OF THE SOCIETIES 
 
 CALLED METHODISTS. 
 
 In sure and steadfast hope to rise 
 And claim her mansion in the skies ; 
 A Christian here her flesh hiid down, 
 The Cross exchanging for a crown. 
 
Wesley's tomb. 
 
320 
 
 Of the noted preachers in London I heard Spurgeon, 
 Canon Farrar, Hugh Price Hughes, Mark Guy Pearce, 
 Newman Hall, Joseph Parker, and the Bishop of Lon- 
 don. At the May Meetings I heard some dozens of 
 preachers from the country, and Missionaries from the 
 foreign fields. Besides the Colportage meeting in Spur- 
 geon's Tabernacle, I was present on two Sundays when 
 he preached ; both sermons were superior as to matter 
 and delivery. His church has two elliptical galleries, 
 each holding about 1,000, while the body of the house 
 holds 4,000. It was full on both occasions. His voice 
 was pitched on the proper key to fill the auditorium, and 
 sustained throughout. He preaches an hour, and uses 
 great variety of style both in sermonizing and in his de- 
 livery. He comments on the lesson before the sermon 
 and pronounces the benediction without song or prayer, 
 after the sermon. He aims at immediate results, and 
 preaches with great earnestness and unction. 
 
 As nothing else in the Avorld is so great as a really 
 great man, I called to see him one afternoon for a few 
 minutes. I said, Mr. Spurgeon, I am an American stop- 
 ping for a short time in London, and thought I would 
 like to form your acquaintance. He smiled, extended 
 Ms hand and remarked: "Well, you have seen a great 
 somebody, indeed." After a short pleasant conversation 
 I arose to leave, when he said : ''May the Lord bless you 
 and give you a safe voyage home." 
 
 I attended a prayer meeting in a room of the Taber- 
 nacle, which is held every Sabbath from 10:30 to 11 a. 
 M., when prayer is offered for the Holy Ghost's presence 
 and power to rest oii Mr. Spurgeon, the members of the 
 church, visitors and the unconverted who may attend. 
 
321 
 
 This was to my mind an explanation, largely, of how, 
 for thirty years this great man has been so efficient in 
 his Master's vineyard. 
 
 Mark Guy Pearce is a Perfectionist, and, while sensa- 
 tional, believes in the presence of the Holy Spirit and 
 his willingness to do now all we need to have done if we 
 are but willing and anxious. He preaches with much 
 feeling. His colleague, H. Price Hughes, is very sensa- 
 tional. He attracts and controls large audiences. He is 
 a great leader. 
 
 On the last Sunday I spent in London, in the after- 
 noon I heard Canon Farrar preach in Westminster Ab- 
 bey, and scores of people were turned away for want of 
 even standing room. He read his sermon, and it was a 
 piece of splendid composition for which he is so renown- 
 ed. He has a mellifluous voice, and his delivery was 
 splendid considering the reading. 
 
 Joseph Parker's City Temple, Holborn, is a most ele- 
 gant church, with lecture room, study and parlors. He 
 is a topical preacher ; his style is elevated and stately ; 
 he is a srand man to look at. The discourse to which I 
 listened was not above an average, but was enlivened 
 occasionally by some startling statement or comment 
 apropos of the discussion. Speaking of Esau he said: 
 ^'Has it come to that I Life reduced to repentance — re- 
 pentance vain ! Disembowelled life ! An epitaph of two 
 words. Born — Died I Alas what doth temptation I" He 
 uttered no uncertain sound on the subject of future pun- 
 ishment : "God says thou shalt surely die. Satan says 
 thou shalt not surely die. Reject, young man, any theory 
 that promises any probation beyond the grave." 
 
 There are many noted churches in London — City Road 
 
INTERIOR OF WESTMINSTER ABIJEV — CHOIR. 
 
323 
 
 Chapel, already noticed ; AVestminster Abbey, wbicli con- 
 tains the dust of kings, queens and warriors, painters,, 
 poets and sculptors, statesmen, philosophers and theolo- 
 gians, all honored with appropriate tombs, tablets and 
 epitaphs. One is shown the Jerusalem chamber, where 
 King James' and the revised versions were translated. 
 A whole day is necessary to half way see over the pon- 
 derous pile ; while one might read, reflect and study there 
 for a lifetime without exhausting the subjects of interest. 
 
 St. Paul's is the third largest ehurch in the world, and 
 is also a receptacle for such heroes as Wellington, Nel- 
 son, Sir Christopher Wren, the architect who built it, 
 Eeynolds, Samuel Johnson and others, making it a kind 
 of "N"ational Temple of Fame." 
 
 The Bow Church on Cheapside is one of Wren's best 
 works. There is a dragon on the top of the steeple 9 
 feet long. Persons born within hearing of the Bow- 
 bells are Cockneys, i. e. true Londoners, (B.) 
 
 Newgate, Ludgate, Billingsgate were named after the 
 old gates that led through the wall when this was a Eo- 
 man town, and mark the old city limits, now miles from 
 the suburbs. 
 
 The Tower, which covers l.S acres, has four objects 
 which every visitor should not fail to see, viz : 
 
 1. The Crown Jewels in the Wakefield Tower. Among 
 many other coronets is that of Queen Victoria, contain- 
 ing 2783 diamonds. They are confined like lions in a 
 circular cage of iron about ten feet in diameter. Crowds 
 of people gather here daily to behold the dazzling gems, 
 regalia, scepters, &c., valued at £3,000,000 or about 
 $15,000,000. 
 
 2. The White Tower, the old original Norman keep or 
 prison, with walls 15 feet thick, containing a very large 
 
325 
 
 collection of old armor, such as was used during several 
 hundred years. 
 
 3. Leaving the White Tower, the space in front is 
 called Tower CIreen. In this are buried the victims of 
 jealousy and revenge. In the middle of it one sees a small 
 square paved with granite to indicate where the scaffold 
 stood for the execution of Queens Anne Boleyn and 
 Katharine, Margaret, Lady Jane (Gray) and many other 
 royal unfortunates. 
 
 4. The Beauchamp Tower on the west, whose walls 
 are full of inscriptions, cut in the stone by the unfor- 
 tunate wretches incarcerated there, repays a visit. 
 
 The Bridges, the Equestrian Statues, the Monuments 
 to statesmen, warriors and discoverers, the British Mu- 
 seum, National Gallery, South Kensington Museum, 
 Madame Tussaud's Waxworks, with the Zoological Gar- 
 dens, Parks, Palaces, Houses of Parliament, Place of 
 Justice, with strangely clad justices and barristers,. 
 Banks, Halls, and so on, would require many weeks to 
 see and understand. 
 
 The j)ublic ground called a Square in America is called 
 Circus in London, Piazza in Italy, Place in France, and 
 Platz in Germany. 
 
 The dogs in Turkey are curs or Shepherd dogs, or a 
 mixture, in Vienna the Mastiff predominates, and is 
 worked to the market wagon, in London the Pug seems 
 to be in the ascendency and is always led about by a 
 string. 
 
 The large Norman draught-horses, as in France, Ger- 
 many, Austria and Belgium, are used in England also. 
 
 The streets are kept clean by regiments of boys, car- 
 rying wooden scoops and stiff brushes, moving rapidly 
 
326 
 
 from point to point as their task reqnires, half bent, the 
 scoop sliding. When full it is emptied into an iron box 
 by the sidewalk, several feet high. These boxes are duly 
 yisited by wagons. 
 
 Often one sees a boy or man Avith colored crayons 
 making beautiful pictures on the smooth stones of the 
 sidewalk. You cannot but pause to admire them, stretch- 
 ing for many yards, and often the product of real geni- 
 us. You will soon see in large letters : ".Will you xot 
 
 CONTRIBUTE TO AID A POOR AMBITIOUS YOUTH ?" Or 
 
 some other phrase, asking alms. 
 
 On almost every square small stands face the street 
 where milk is on sale. At these one can get a quart of 
 milk for 5 cents, and plenty of bread for a hearty meal 
 for two cents. There are commissioners appointed to 
 buy milk daily from these stands, testing its quality to 
 protect the purchaser from imposition. 
 
 Their police regulations in all their details are equal 
 to the best to be found in the world, probably. 
 
 The movements of the royal family are chronicled in 
 England about as famous persons are in America. It 
 was announced one morning that the Queen would take 
 the cars, from Paddington Station, for Windsor, so I, 
 with multitudes of others, went out of my way to see 
 her. Great crowds gathered on all the street-corners, re- 
 quiring many police to preserve order. Her face was 
 flashed, she seemed excited, but I was unable to deter- 
 mine whether it was from modesty, irritation at the poor 
 order kept by the guards, or a fear of bombs, or some- 
 thing altogether different. The pageant was not over- 
 powering, yet somewhat greater than a Presidential 
 turnout. 
 
CHAPTER XXXVIII. 
 
 SCOTLAND— ABBOTSFORD, EDINBURGH, GLAS- 
 - GOW. 
 
 After a sojourn of three weeks in London, every wak- 
 ing hour of which was turned to the best account, I 
 bought a ticket to Glasgow by way of Melrose (called 
 the Waverly Eoute) and Edinburgh, passing on the way 
 Peterboro the Proud, York the Ancient, Durham with 
 its castle and cathedral encircled by the river Wear, and 
 ISTewcastle father on, where I spent about four hours, 
 which enabled me to see the old castle, built by the son 
 of William the Conqueror, and Stephenson's great bridge 
 over the Tyne and his monument, reaching 
 
 MELKOSE 
 
 about 6 o'clock, P. M. I met in the Abbey a gentleman 
 from West Virginia. We remained until about dark and 
 listened to the custodian, who never tired showing the 
 resting places of those buried within its walls and tell- 
 ing of their heroic deeds, such as Douglas, King Robert 
 Bruce, whose heart is buried there, Michael Scott, the 
 famous Wizard, Murdoch, the first Master of Melrose 
 Lodge A. F. and A. M., which, with Kilwinning is said 
 to be the oldest in Scotland, and of many others : 
 
 " Within the pile no common dead 
 Lay blended with their kindred mould : 
 Theirs was the hearts that prayed or bled, 
 In cloister dim or death-plain red, 
 The pious and the bold." 
 
 " The pillared arches over their head," 
 
328 
 
 the finest in finish o^ any I saw anywhere, engaged our 
 attention quite awhile. "There is one cloister, along the 
 whole length of which runs a cornice of flowers and 
 plants, entirely unrivalled, to my mind, by anything 
 elsewhere extant, I do not say in Gothic architecture 
 merely, but in any architecture whatever." Just east of 
 the Tower Base is a stone in front of a large window in 
 the perpendicular style and just by the tomb of Michael 
 Scott the " Wizard " of the " Lay," on which Sir Walter 
 used to sit for hours meditating and composing, often 
 till late at night, for, 
 
 " If tliou -wouldst view fair Melrose ariglit 
 Go visit it by the pale moon-light. 
 When buttress and buttress alternately 
 Seem framed of ebon and ivory ; • 
 
 ■Wlien silver edges the imagery, 
 And the scrolls that teach thee to live and die : 
 When distant Tweed is heard to rave, 
 Then go— but go alone the while- 
 Then view St. David's ruined pile ; 
 And home returning, soothly swear, 
 Was never scene so sad and fair !" 
 
 — Lady of the Lake. 
 
 Xext morning Ave went up to Abbottsford, called the 
 * Eomance," Sir Walter's home, built on the grounds 
 where was the scene of the last feudal conflict of the 
 Borders; near by is Dry burgh Abbey, the Eildon Hills, 
 " for weirdly deeds renowned," Ettrick Forest and the 
 " dowie dens o' yarrow," and only half a mile to 
 
 " Where gallant Cessford's life-blood dear 
 Reeked on dark Elliot's border spear." 
 
 This was the last battle of Melrose, the last great clan 
 battle of the Borders, fought 1526, for the body of 
 James V. 
 
 Sir Walter greatly enlarged this estate and planted on 
 
329 
 
 it 2,000 sweet briers, 3,000 each of laburnums, scotch 
 elms and horse chestnuts, loads of hollies, poplars, 
 filberts and 100,000 birches. Mr. Rokeley called it a 
 " Caledonian Eden." It is situated about three miles 
 from Melrose, on the banks of the Tweed. It is a fairy 
 glen, favorable for study, with the mumuring Tw^eed, 
 impending hills, flowers, ferns and forestry to inspire his 
 genius. As Rae-Brown says : 
 
 " Scott, witli a poet-painter's skUl, 
 Immortalized lake, tree and nill, 
 Till Scotia seemed the brightest gem 
 That shone on nature's diadem." 
 
 One is shown his armory, a fine selection, containing 
 the pair of pistols carried by Napoleon Bonaparte at 
 Waterloo, with many other valuable relics ; his library 
 of 20,000 volumes and many fine paintings ; his study^ 
 with his desk, book-holder and the room in which he- 
 died, containing a bronze cast taken while he lay in state.. 
 Other- things than arboriculture also occupied the acquis 
 sitive Laird of Abbotsf ord. Writing to his sister-in-law 
 (Mrs. Thomas Scott) he says : "In despite of these hard: 
 times, which affect my patrons, the booksellers, verj 
 much, I am buying old books and old armour as usual^ 
 and adding to what your old friend Burns calls 
 
 •' A fouth of auld nick-nackets, 
 Rusty airn caps and jingling jackets, 
 Wad hand the Lothians three in tackets 
 
 A townmont guide ; 
 And parritch pats and auld saut toackets: 
 
 Afore the flude." 
 
 We spent one day — the Queen's birthday — in the learn- 
 ed city of Edinburgh. Queen Street is thought by 
 many to be the finest street in the worlds but the crowd 
 
SIR WALTER SCOTT S MONUMENT. 
 
331 
 
 was so great one had to struggle to get^aloiig instead of 
 leisurely admiring objects of beauty aroundjiim. 
 
 We ascend Gallon Hill, which gives an extended view, 
 embracing the city of Leith, Arthur's seatQand the har- 
 bor on the Firth of Forth. An iron globe passes up and 
 falls on a percussion cap discharged by electricity from 
 the chronometer at Greenwich; this tires a cannon 
 piecisely at 12 o'clock, M., every day. Here also 
 are the incomplete National, N"elson and Stewart 
 monuments. Below the hill on the way to Holyrood is 
 the monument to Robert Burns, at the unveiling of 
 which his mother said : " He asked for bread, but they 
 gie him a stein," meaning the stone material^of which it 
 was composed. 
 
 The Gastle which covers 7 acres, and has endured 
 many sieges, where James I. of England or VI. of Scot- 
 laud was born, containing the ancient regalia of Scotland 
 consisting of a crown, sceptre, sword of State, and the 
 Lord Treasurer's rod of oflBce, the room of Mary, Queen 
 of Scots, Queen Margaret's Ghapel, the smallest church in 
 the world, perhaps, Mons. Meg, a historic cannon of 1497, 
 with the Highlanders crowned with helmets plumed 
 with Ostrich feathers worth $25, and tartan frocks that 
 reach only to the knee, the rest of the leg and foot being 
 bare, and the Scott monument below costing $2,04)0,000, 
 with its churches and schools, all would tempt one to 
 linger in this classic town, but only one more day remains 
 for Glasgow and the country between ere the S. S. State 
 of Nebraska will sail for New York and bear me to my 
 native land. 
 
 Glasgow claims to be the third city of Great Britain, 
 and is indebted for her prosperity to her facility for 
 uniting commerce and manufactures. Four things con- 
 
332 
 
 Sumed my time for one day ; the Cathedral, which has 
 one of the finest crypts in existence, with 33 columns 
 and 20 pilasters supporting the ceiling, and stained glass 
 windows from Munich ; the Necropolis, just over the 
 " Bridge of Sighs," that holds, with many others, the 
 ashes of John Knox. On a single Doric column 
 rising above his remains we read that the regent said at 
 his funeral : " Here lieth he who never feared the face 
 of man." Many events connected with the reformation 
 in Scotland are inscribed on the monument and a fine 
 statute of Knox surmounts the shaft. We spent a few 
 hours in the Hunterian Museum of the University, which 
 has a fine natural history collection ; and the shipyards 
 on the Clyde, where are made the great ocean-going 
 steamers ; fully one hundred, of various sizes, were in 
 course of construction, made throughout of iron. They 
 are built on an inclined plane, on a line cutting the shore 
 diagonally, and are launched stern foremost. 
 
 We went through a large factory which employs sev- 
 eral hundred blind people, who were Aveaving, making 
 brooms, brushes, sieves and many other useful articles, 
 all executed with surprising precision and dispatch. 
 
 Many emigrants sail from Glasgow to America. About 
 200 were on the State of Nebraska. Fully 2,500 people 
 w^ere oif the wharf to see her sail and bid friends adieu ; 
 some wept, some laughed, while others cheered. 
 
 There is a solemnity about the sailing of a steam-ship 
 laden with passengers bound for some foreign land. 
 AVhat fate awaits them, who can tell ? Many have gone 
 with as gleeful spirits as they, never to be heard of 
 again. 
 
 Slowly we moved down the Clyde by the great ship- 
 
333 
 
 yards. By and by we passed Greenock, birthplace of 
 James Watt, and Avliere Burns' Highland Mary is buried; 
 on the opposite side, almost in sight, is the Whistler's 
 Glen, where Donacha Dhu and the poor boy of Effie 
 Deans rendezvoused as Scott relates in " Heart of Midlo- 
 thian." Soon we run into Gourock bay " where the yacht 
 clubs fit out their crack cutters, yawls and schooners for 
 the summer races." It is said to be a lucky bay to sail 
 from, especially if ballast be taken from Granny Kem- 
 poch, a rock on the cliff at Kempoch Point. Across 
 from Gourock bay Loch Long branches off, on au arm of 
 which (Loch Goil) Lord Ullin vainly called to his elo- 
 ping child and her Highland chief 
 
 " ' Come back ! come back !" lie cried in grief, 
 ' Across tliis stormy water ; 
 And I'll forgive your Higniand cnief , 
 My daughter, oh, my daughter !" 
 
 'Twas vain ; the loud waves lash'd the shore, 
 
 Return, or aid preventing ; 
 
 The waters wild went o'er his child, 
 
 And he was left lamenting." 
 
 " Holy Loch is separated from L. Long by Strone Point 
 projecting into the Clyde, here the scenery is Alpine, 
 with precipice, crag, pyramidal hills, contrasted with 
 others whose smooth, verdant sides swell into aerial 
 heights. Particularly fine is Argyll's Bowling Green. It 
 is a matchless amphitheater with downy fronts and lofty 
 summits." Across the Firth to the left rise the Renfrew- 
 shire and Ayershire hills, land of Burns. Rothsay, a 
 favorite watering place, was passed ; here stands a castle 
 dating back to 1098, where Robert II. resided for a time 
 and where he died. It contains a stair known as the 
 " Bluidy Stair " where tradition says a deed of horror oc- 
 curred. 
 
334 
 
 The morning woke on the Ladye's bower, 
 
 But no Isabel was there ; 
 The morning woke on Rothesay tower, 
 
 And bluid was on the stair. 
 
 And aft in the mirk and midnight hour, 
 
 WTien a' is silent there, 
 A shriek is heard and a Ladye is seen 
 
 On the steps o' the Bluidy Stair." 
 
 The Firth of Clyde widens out and the shades of night 
 shut out from our vision the enchanted land of Scott 
 and Burns, of Wallace and Bruce, of McLeod and Knox. 
 
 We awoke to look upon Erin's emerald isle. Our ship 
 spent a day at Larne, completing- her cargo, affording 
 passengers opportunity to run up to Belfast and spend a 
 few hours. 
 
 Late in the afternoon our vessel was loosed from her 
 mooring and steamed northwards through the north 
 channel skirting the j^icturesque coast of Ireland home- 
 ward bound. 
 
 One of the pleasant features of a sea-voyage is the 
 number of nice people one meets. I was very fortunate 
 on this trip. There were five ministers aboard, two of 
 whom were Methodists, three Avere Presbyterians. We 
 were eleven days crossing, including two Sundays. On 
 one of these Mr. Langiey, of Canada, preached, and I on 
 the second. During the day there was music and many 
 kinds of games for those fond of amusement, and a good 
 library for those who wish to read, while others write 
 letters, still others look for whales and icebergs. We 
 had two concerts and charades at night. It fell to my 
 lot in one of these to feebly portray the desirable quali- 
 ties and inexhaustible resources of our own Southland, 
 and. urge on all those seeking homes in the new world 
 the benefits of locating amongst us. 
 
335 
 
 I greatly enjoyed the association of Dr. Hobbs, a yonng 
 alnmnus of Johns Hopkins, who had been to Germany 
 to study there. He belongs to the U. 8. Coast Survey 
 and is the author of a learned treatise on the " Rocks oc- 
 curring in the neighborhood of Ilchester, Maryland." 
 .1 enjoyed no less the acquaintance of the Rev. B. Lang- 
 ley and wife and the Rev. Jas. Lanman and wife Avhom I 
 first met on the Luther Platz in Worms. 
 
 On the morning of June 5th we passed Sandy Hook, 
 the Statue of Liberty, and soon stood on American soil. 
 
 My heart thanked that faithful Friend under whose 
 protecting hand our ship had reached this shore in safety 
 and whose defenses had been about me since January. I 
 had travelled so many thousands of miles without acci- 
 dent, sickness, loss of any kind, (except a package sent 
 home), or even missing a single connection by rail or 
 steamer, or receiving a line of news from home to rob my 
 journey of enjoyment. 
 
 " 'Tis sweet to hear the watch-dog's honest hark, 
 Bay deep-mouthed welcome as we draw near home ; 
 'Tis sweet to know there is an eye will mark 
 Our coming, and look brighter when we come," 
 
 FINIS.