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'#*L ^^,M^^ ^6 
 
 PANORAMA,^///:./' 
 
 OF THE 
 
 BEAUTIES, CURIOSITIES, & ANTIQUITIES 
 
 : 
 
 NORTH WALES, • [ 
 
 J O D b 
 
 EXHIBITED IN ITS 
 
 MOUNTAINS, VALLIES, WATERFALLS, LAKES, CITIES 
 AND TOWNS, CASTLES AND RUINS, ETC. 
 
 INTENDED AS A 
 
 IF®© 5E.H S 1 (DOM3PA1T20M 
 
 TO THE 
 
 TOURIST AND TRAVELLER. 
 
 ** 
 
 SECOND EDITION. 
 
 BY J. HEMINGWAY, 
 
 Author of the History of Chester, Sfc. and late Editor of the 
 Chester Chronicle. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 R. GROOMBRIDGE, PANYER-ALLEY, AND H. HUGHES, ST. 
 
 MARTIN'S-LE-GRAND; BANCKS AND CO. MANCHESTER; 
 
 AND J. SEACOME, CHESTER. 
 
 1835. 
 
CHESTER J 
 T. GRIFFITH, GR0SVEN0R-STREE7 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 THE attractions which Wales, especially the northern 
 portion of the Principality, possesses at the present day, 
 are truly surprising. We are not to suppose, however, 
 that the natural objects of delight and admiration, with 
 which the country abounds, and with which thousands of 
 our English travellers and tourists are smitten, are of 
 recent origin. Her gigantic mountains, luxuriant vallies, 
 picturesque glens, beautiful lakes, and sublime cataracts 
 and waterfalls, had all their attributes of beauty and 
 grandeur, centuries ago. And yet, till within the lapse 
 of little more than twenty years, the number of English- 
 men visiting the interior of Wales, was of very small 
 amount, and then, generally, only on objects of neces- 
 sary business. 
 
 Before Mr. Pennant published his celebrated Tours in 
 Wales, about 1778, the engaging scenery of the country 
 was comparatively unknown and unexplored. This gen- 
 tleman's ardour for the acquirement of a knowledge of 
 his country and its rare antiquities, led him over its track- 
 less districts, its alpine summits, into its deepest dells 
 and lovely vallies, along its silver lakes, and to view its 
 ancient castles, fortresses, monuments, towns, and vil- 
 
IV. PREFACE. 
 
 lages. The fruits of his invaluable labours, he published 
 to the world ; and although these did not for a season 
 seem to rouse the inquiries, or excite the curiosity of the 
 English public, they were silently paving the way for a 
 spirit of Cambrian research. To deny to Mr. Pennant 
 the merit of having given the first great impulse to the 
 late and present exploration of the treasures of Cambria, 
 would be equally unjust and ungenerous. 
 
 About twenty years after Mr. Pennant's Tours appear- 
 ed, the Rev. Mr. Bingley and the Rev. Mr. Warner pub- 
 lished their works on North Wales, both of which were 
 very extensively read. Others of a similar character fol- 
 lowed in rapid succession, till at length a Tour in North- 
 Wales became almost as fashionable as the Grand Tour 
 of Europe used to be among the sons of our nobles and 
 gentry. 
 
 It must not be concealed, that what has not a little 
 contributed to increase the number of visitants to North 
 Wales, is the creation of many new, and the immense 
 improvements made in the old roads, which have taken 
 place since the period above spoken of, on which coaches 
 now are in daily motion for the facilities of travelling. 
 The introduction of steam navigation has also materially 
 aided the same object. Nor should it be omitted to be 
 stated, that though formerly scarce a tolerable public- 
 house could be found in the interior of the country, there 
 are now conveniences and accommodations for the highest 
 order of travellers, even in some of the most mountain- 
 ous and isolated districts, not inferior to those which can 
 be procured at the best English inns. To an inhabitant 
 of South Britain, it would appear a phenomenon, to see 
 a modern well-built hotel, standing in a narrow valley, 
 
surrounded on all sides by lofty mountains, in the imme- 
 diate vicinity of half a dozen humble cottages, and where 
 sterility alone is visible around. Yet such a scene can 
 be produced in North Wales ! 
 
 To the above causes, which have favourably operated 
 in attracting such numbers of Englishmen into this in- 
 teresting country, in connexion with the growing taste of 
 the age for curious research, we may lastly add, that 
 wonder of the times, the Great Suspension Bridge 
 across the Straits of Menai, near Bangor, which will 
 long remain an imperishable monument of the spirit and 
 genius of our age and country. 
 
 In presenting to the public the following picture of 
 Wales, and its inhabitants, the editor has been actuated 
 by a sincere desire of giving a faithful and correct deli- 
 neation of both, in a convenient form and size, not des- 
 titute of neatness, nor devoid of embellishments. He 
 only wishes that his labours may be as well received as 
 they have been intended. 
 
 In compiling the work, numerous respectable publica- 
 tions have been consulted, and their authority adopted, 
 especially in cases where it was difficult to obtain informa- 
 tion on the spot. Among other works, we have been 
 particularly indebted to the Topographical Dictionary of 
 Wales, a splendid work recently published by Mr. Lewis, 
 in two quarto volumes, which we believe has received, 
 and deserves, extensive encouragement. 
 
 To several gentlemen in the Principality, who have 
 kindly answered his queries on local points connected 
 with their neighbourhoods, the publisher offers his sincere 
 
acknowledgments; as well as to others, who have kindly 
 communicated important information in reference to the 
 general subjects of the work. Upon the whole, he re- 
 spectfully submits its claims to public patronage, under a 
 persuasion that it will be found a faithful guide and 
 amusing companion to the tourist or traveller, in passing 
 through the country. 
 
 In conclusion, the publisher would only remark that 
 the Map which accompanies the work, and which has 
 been engraved expressly for its illustration, may be relied 
 on for its accuracy and fidelity ; and it is presumed, that 
 the accompanying views will be esteemed additional em- 
 bellishments to the work. 
 
ADVERTISEMENT 
 
 TO THE 
 
 SECOND EDITION. 
 
 THE first edition of this little work having been sold 
 off in the course of a few months, and a second one 
 called for, is a satisfactory indication, that it has been 
 favourably received by the public. Upon being apprized 
 of this gratifying fact, the publisher, in preparing for the 
 present impression, determined on rendering it, if possi- 
 ble, still more worthy of general acceptance ; and for 
 this purpose he submitted it to the inspection of a number 
 of intelligent gentlemen resident in different parts of the 
 Principality, and to others, who have traversed with a 
 curious eye its varied scenery, with a request that they 
 would mark any inaccuracy, or supply any omission, 
 which might be discoverable in the first edition. These 
 inquiries have been responded to in a manner for which 
 the publisher feels truly grateful ; and those respectable 
 individuals will perceive, that in the following pages, 
 their valuable emendations have been carefully attended 
 to. The sources of assistance are too many to admit of 
 a particular enumeration ; but the publisher feels himself 
 peculiarly called upon to acknowledge the services of 
 the Rev. F. Ayckbowm and the Rev. Evan Evans, of 
 
Vlll. ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 Chester ; Dr. Pring, Bangor ; Dr. Price, Llangollen ; 
 William Hanmer, Esq. Bodnod ; John Jones, Esq. Din- 
 orben, and several others who have contributed much to 
 the improvement of the present edition. 
 
 Among the crowds who now annually visit the moun- 
 tains and vallies of Wales, are great numbers who flock 
 thither for the elegant diversion of angling. For their 
 information, a new feature has been introduced into the 
 work, namely, a description of the rivers and lakes, 
 with which the country abounds, together with the 
 species of fish with which they are stocked, and the par- 
 ticular stations where the amateur is likely to find the 
 most excellent sport; it is necessary, however, to observe, 
 that unless the places named are pretty full of water, the 
 angler will not meet with that success which he might 
 expect. This addition, it is presumed, will be peculiarly 
 acceptable to the piscatorial rambler, whose amusements 
 will be essentially facilitated by an attention to the con- 
 tents. 
 
 This edition is sent into the world, after much care 
 and labour, under a full persuasion that it will suffer no 
 injury from a comparison with the most accurate work of 
 the kind that has ever been submitted to the public. 
 
 May, 1835. 
 
PANORAMA 
 
 BEAUTIES, CURIOSITIES, AND ANTIQUITIES 
 
 NORTH WALES. 
 
 SKETCH OF THE HISTORY OF NORTH WALES 
 
 The limits to which this small publication is circum- 
 scribed, will not permit an elaborate history of the 
 country; and indeed such an undertaking is rendered 
 unnecessary from the nature of the contents of the fol- 
 lowing pages. In perambulating the different towns and 
 hamlets throughout the Northern portion of the Princi- 
 pality ; in describing the castles and forts erected for 
 defence or annoyance ; and in pointing to those sites 
 which have been the arena of hostile conflicts, between 
 the aborigines and their invaders, whether Roman, Saxon, 
 or Norman, with the various results of each, will neces- 
 sarily embrace all the subjects which could be compre- 
 hended in a succinct history. 
 
 Under these circumstances, the following compressed 
 summary of the early state and vicissitudes of the country, 
 extracted from Mr. Barber's Tour, will be fully answer- 
 able to the author's design, and it is presumed, to the 
 reader's wishes. 
 
 " The first certain accounts that we collect of the 
 history of Wales, are on the invasion of the Romans, 
 when it appears to have been divided into three Principa- 
 lities : the Silures, the Ordovices, and the Dimites. The 
 Silures possessed all that tract of country bounded by the 
 
2 SKETCH OF THE HISTORY, ETC. 
 
 Severn, the Thames, and the Towey; which, comprehend- 
 ing the counties of Monmouth, Glamorgan, Brecknock, 
 Radnor, Hereford, and part of Gloucester, Worcester, 
 and Caermarthen, comprised the greater part of South 
 Wales. The Dimitae inhabited that part of South Wales, 
 westward of the Towey; and the Ordovices, North 
 Wales, including Anglesey. 
 
 " The Romans having subdued Britannia Prima, i. e. 
 the Southern part of England, advanced to the conquest 
 of Wales, by them denominated Britannia Secunda: in 
 this, however, they met with an unlooked-for opposition ; 
 the inhabitants were vigorous and brave ; and the coun- 
 try, wildly piled together, with mountains, forests, and 
 morasses, presented an aggregation of difficulties that 
 would have discouraged a people less ardent in their en- 
 terprizes ; nor did they succeed, until after a long warfare 
 and a severe loss. The Silures and Dimitse fell under the 
 yoke in the reign of Vespasian, when they were van- 
 quished by Julius Frontinus. The Ordovices were not 
 finally subdued until the time of his successor, Agricola, 
 who, according to Tacitus, exterminated the whole nation. 
 
 " The Romans retained possession of this country, 
 until A. D. 408, when they withdrew their legions, and 
 the most warlike of the British youth, for the defence of 
 their central dominions. The inroads of the Scots and 
 Picts, which immediately followed, do not appear to have 
 materially affected the Welsh ; nor did the Saxons, though 
 at constant war with them for several centuries, acquire 
 any settled dominion in the country ; yet they more than 
 once partially over-ran Wales, obliging it to pay tribute ; 
 and in the reign of Edward the Confessor, Harold, at the 
 head of a great army, entering Wales, defeated prince 
 Griffith, sovereign of North Wales ; and establishing him- 
 self in Gwent (Monmouthshire) began a palace at Ports wit, 
 which was, however, destroyed by Griffith, before its 
 completion. 
 
 * * From the departure of the Romans, in 408, to the 
 inroads of the Anglo-Norman chieftains, in the eleventh 
 and twelfth centuries, Wales was divided into numerous 
 petty sovereignties or lordships, of varying name and 
 extent, but tributary to an imperial prince : though some- 
 times that dignity was split into two or three branches. 
 
GENERAL CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE. 3 
 
 These chiefs were usually at war with each other, or with 
 their princes, who seldom obtained tribute when their 
 means of enforcing it were questionable. 
 
 1 ' The Anglo-Norman dominion in Wales was brought 
 about in a manner wholly different from former conquests. 
 William the first, and his successors, finding sufficient 
 employment in securing their English possessions, invit- 
 ing their chiefs, holding lands in the neighbourhood of 
 Wales, to make incursions against the Welsh lords, upon 
 their separate interests. The Norman leaders thereupon, 
 by creating feuds among the native powers, siding with 
 one or the other party, and breaking with them on con- 
 venient opportunities, contrived to fix themselves in 
 various parts of Wales ; whence their conquests extending 
 by degrees, overspread the greater part of the country. 
 The lands thus obtained, became the property of the 
 conquerers, who, under the title of lords marchers, were 
 allowed to exercise an uncontrolled jurisdiction within 
 their demesnes : but power acquired on such principles 
 could only be retained by force ; every petty despot 
 secured himself in a fortress, and hence arose the extra- 
 ordinary number of castles with which Wales is crowded, 
 amounting, according to a native author (Mr. Pennant) 
 to one hundred and forty-three. The Welsh princes still 
 held a considerable tract of country, frequently overthrew 
 the intruders, and even carried their arms into England ; 
 but in the defeat of the brave Llywelyn by Edward I. 
 Wales lost every remnant of its independence, and be- 
 came definitively united to the crown of England. 
 
 " In the reign of Henry VIII. Wales was divided into 
 twelve shires, and Monmouth was included among the 
 English counties ; the feudal despotism of the lords 
 marchers was then abolished, and Wales, participating 
 in the equal shelter of English jurisprudence, has proved 
 itself as zealous in defending the common interests of the 
 empire, as it was formerly conspicuous in strugglng for 
 its particular freedom." 
 
 GENERAL CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE. 
 
 The preceding sketch, though brief, carries with it the 
 general character of accuracy ; and there is not a sentence 
 in it more fully entitled to implicit confidence, than that 
 
4 GENERAL CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE. 
 
 with which it concludes, and which marks the loyalty 
 and patriotism of the inhabitants of North Wales. It 
 would be greatly to the credit of literature, and certainly 
 no loss to the public, if those gentlemen who rapidly 
 skim the Principality for the purpose of making a book, 
 in the form of tours or travels, would be more sparing 
 in appending to their descriptions, delineations of national 
 manners. The scraps of information they derive at their 
 inns, over their afternoon or evening bottle, are very 
 uncertain data on which to form a correct estimate of the 
 character, habits, pursuits, and dispositions of a whole 
 people. This is a task exceedingly difficult, and cannot 
 be performed merely by brilliancy of genius, or acuteness 
 of discernment. To do justice to such an undertaking, 
 it is necessary that the writer be intimately acquainted 
 with all classes of society ; that he has had the opportu- 
 nity of watching their conduct in all the concerns and 
 relations of life ; and that not in a single, or a few trans- 
 actions, but by long continued observation. Almost every 
 community has a distinct trait in its character, and perhaps 
 none more so than the Welsh people ; yet the great 
 disparity in their situations in life, in the amount of 
 knowledge and information, and in their various modes 
 of living, require that the contour should be drawn by a 
 discriminating pencil. Of their loyalty and peaceful sub- 
 jection to the government, however, there cannot be two 
 opinions. In corroboration of this it may enough to say, 
 that during the revolutionary war, while the country's 
 energies were crippled as to any foreign annoyance of the 
 enemy, by large bodies of troops being stationed in dif- 
 ferent parts of England, Scotland, and Ireland, for the 
 purpose of repressing the spirit of sedition and rebellion 
 in the populous districts, the hills and vallies of North 
 Wales, containing a surface of 150 miles by about 60, 
 and a population of eight hundred thousand souls, the 
 appearance of a King's soldier was almost counted a 
 phenomenon. And to this may be added, that while, in 
 every other portion of the empire, the gaols were crowded 
 with offenders, charged with sedition or rebellion, few, 
 very few, prosecutions occurred for similar offences within 
 the peaceful regions of Gwynedd. Neither our present 
 monarch, nor his royal father, whose name cannot be 
 
GENERAL CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE. 5 
 
 pronounced without affectionate veneration, could boast 
 of more devoted and loyal subjects throughout their ex- 
 tensive empire, than the men of North Wales. I may 
 be allowed to add, that their peaceful and subordinate 
 demeanor, does not airse from their supineness or indif- 
 ference to the principles of civil liberty, but from their 
 conviction of the blessings and protection they enjoy, and 
 their religious respect to the powers that be, under the 
 British Constitution. This assertion is justified by the 
 following portrait of the Welsh character, which is quoted 
 from the Rev. G. J. Freeman's "Sketches in Wales;" 
 for though the writer of these pages has spent no incon- 
 siderable time in that country, travelled through every 
 county in North and South Wales, and visited almost 
 every town and village in each, he is conscious he cannot 
 equal, either in accuracy of description, or elegance of 
 diction, the subjoined portraiture. 
 
 " I never visited Wales in my life, (says this writer) 
 without a feeling of reverence for the soil on which I trod ; 
 or rather, should I say, for that ancient race, and those 
 heroic deeds, which have consecrated their soil in my 
 imagination. Not only is it the majesty of nature in this 
 country, whose charms it spreads around one ; but it is 
 man, the spirit of freedom, the struggle for country, for 
 home, which warms, which animates the heart, and ex- 
 cites the most thrilling sensations. If we admire the 
 heroism of the Grecian commonwealth, in defending their 
 independence against the despot of Persia, or other tyrants, 
 we may gather matter for the like wonder, for similar 
 enthusiasm nearer home, in the history of the ancient 
 Britons, whose claim to renown is founded on grounds 
 that are equally indisputable. They contended for their 
 own institutions for nine hundred years, and the remem- 
 brance of this struggle for liberty is dearly cherished 
 among all their ranks to the present hour. Well may 
 they cherish it ! It is unexampled in the history of any 
 people ! Nor is this the boast of a nation altogether rude 
 and barbarous : — the Welsh were never so. There is 
 reason to believe that the Britons flourished as a nation 
 before the Romans visited the island. The records of 
 their early times are at least as remarkable and as myste- 
 rious, though not so costly, as those which distinguish 
 
GENERAL CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE. 
 
 Egypt. A lid however abject their condition might be 
 during the times of the Romans, or of the Saxons, of 
 Danish or of Norman aggression, yet their national cha- 
 racter always was respectable ; and they continue to the 
 present hour conspicuous for their honesty, their courtesy, 
 their hospitality, their devotion, and their general freedom 
 from crime. 
 
 "The Welsh, united as they have been by adversity, 
 continue to be faithful and attached to each other in an 
 eminent degree. This does not hinder their shewing 
 rare and unsought for kindness to strangers. Whatever 
 may have been reported of them by superficial observers, 
 
 1 am confident they are violent only to the violent, but 
 gentle and obedient to persons of moderation and good 
 sense, and will perform laborious services for trifling re- 
 wards. They are, indeed, capable of the most generous 
 actions, and sometimes discover a trust and candour 
 bordering upon rashness and credulity. I do not say this 
 without experience, having thrown myself among the 
 people at several times, and seen them in their natural 
 state. Their virtues, however, are seldom to be found 
 on the great Irish roads, or at the watering places, where 
 they have acquired mercenary ideas from the English, 
 and have been taught to make a harvest of their summer 
 company. Though living under the government of the 
 English, they are very cautious in admitting English 
 habits, and are exceedingly shy of all that comes from 
 their invaders. This is the consequence of their national 
 prejudice, which, indeed, is not to be wondered at. Eng- 
 lish settlers often meet with great obstacles and vexations 
 among them ; but this is no more than what frequently 
 happens in England itself, where provincial jealousies are 
 often to be met with ; but they make every distinction 
 between a settler and a visitor : the latter will, at any 
 rate, experience the most hospitable attention, unless he 
 forfeits his claim to it by affecting to despise their poverty, 
 or depreciate their reputation. 
 
 "North Wales is most truly Welsh. This was the 
 superior country formerly. South Wales, and Powys, 
 the intermediate state, were tributary to it. To an 
 English eye, South Wales is the most eligible and im- 
 provable country ; and here, accordingly, English arts 
 
LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. 7 
 
 have made the most progress. Pembrokeshire has been 
 called * Little England beyond Wales.' The inhabitants 
 of that country are descendants of a colony of Flemings, 
 driven by inundation from their own soil, in the times of 
 Henry the First. The Welsh regard them as an inferior 
 race. The commerce of South Wales is by far the most 
 considerable : it has fertile vales, numerous towns and 
 villages, collieries and iron factories of the most extensive 
 description, and seats of rich gentlemen, either indigen- 
 ous or alien, and is altogether the most Anglicised country. 
 The Welsh, in their true and original character, are now 
 only to be found in the retreats of their highest mountains, 
 where many little societies live, and have lived for cen- 
 turies, in total seclusion from the bustle, in almost total 
 ignorance of the arts of mankind, and in the silent and 
 undisturbed enjoyment of their beloved prejudices to their 
 own national habits." 
 
 LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. 
 
 By all competent judges, the Welsh language is allowed 
 to have an undeniable claim to very high antiquity, and 
 to bear a striking similarity to the Hebrew. Both in its 
 formation as well as grammatical construction, it has a 
 near resemblance to the original tongue, and the affinity 
 is further demonstrated by the learned Rowlands, in the 
 comparitive table, containing three hundred words, which 
 might have been extended, since the publication of Owen's 
 invaluable dictionary, to as many thousands. It is per- 
 haps, says Evans (Description of North Wales), without 
 exception the most primitive and uncorrupt living lan- 
 guage in the western world. Its copiousness is without 
 rival, principally arising from the various combinations of 
 its verbs. Each of these has about twenty combinations, 
 by means of qualifying prefixes, and in every form they 
 can each be conjugated, either by inflexions like the 
 Latin, or by auxiliaries as in the English language. The 
 author of Letters from Snowdon, has justly remarked, 
 that at the same time that it boasts ' l the softness and 
 harmony of the Italian,* it has all the majesty of the 
 
 * Although to an English ear the Welsh may sound some- 
 what harsh and guttural, the great linguist, Dr. Johnson, 
 
O LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. 
 
 Greek. " From its numerous gutturals, it has been termed 
 rugged, and by those unacquainted with its extensive 
 capability, might be supposed ill adapted to express soft 
 and melodious sounds ; yet, that it is adequate to repre- 
 sent a great degree of softness, the following stanza on 
 the silk- worm, composed entirely of vowels, will de- 
 monstrate : 
 
 O'i wiw wy i weu e a, a'i weuau 
 O'i wyau a weua ; 
 E' weua ei we aia', 
 A'i weuau yw ieuau ia. 
 
 I perish by my art ; 
 
 Dig my own grave ; 
 I spin my thread of life ; 
 
 My death I weave. 
 
 Of its great energy and capability of displaying one of 
 the chief beauties in language, the sound corresponding 
 with the sense, a distich on thunder may serve as a 
 specimen : 
 
 Tan a dwr yn ymwriaw, 
 Yw'r taranau dreigiau draw. 
 
 The roaring thunder, dreadful in its ire, 
 Is water warring with aerial fire. 
 
 The force and energy of the language is peculiarly 
 observable in the visible emotions of an auditory, when 
 addressed by the public speaker. These effects are not 
 confined to religious assemblies during the harangue of 
 the minister, but are here nevertheless very discoverable, 
 though numbers are inclined to ascribe them principally, 
 if not altogether, to the excitement of fanaticism, and 
 enthusiastic vehemence. Let such persons, however, 
 change the scene of their observation ; let them, for 
 instance, take their station on the platform during the 
 
 remarks, after having heard a sermon in Eodfari church, 
 '* The sound of the Welsh, in a continued discourse, is not 
 unpleasant." 
 
LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. 9 
 
 orations at an Eisteddfod, and while the orator is des- 
 canting on the beauties of their beloved hills and vallies ; 
 on the fame and glory of their ancient bards ; on the 
 bravery of their heroes ; and especially on the superior 
 excellence of their native language ; and you will perceive 
 the mass of the whole audience as actuated by one soul, 
 their countenance lighted up into exstacy and delight, 
 their voices audibly responding to the vivid representation, 
 and the spontaneous clapping of hands, indicative of 
 applause. We may affect to attribute their warmth of 
 feeling to the animating themes which the speaker selects 
 on these occasions, but in an English assembly, how 
 rarely do we witness these fervid emotions, and never to 
 an equal degree ; though I am unwilling to allow to the 
 sons of Cambria a more ancient love of country than 
 falls to the lot of every true born Englishman. Nor let 
 us place these effects to the account of superior talents of 
 oratory. At these congresses, the individuals who deliver 
 the public orations are seldom men of the highest class, 
 and much more seldom, men who have studied elocution 
 as a profession ; and yet, we may confidently challenge 
 our English courts of judicature, or even the senate of the 
 nation, to produce men, who in addressing a promiscuous 
 assembly, can equally impress and agitate, or so forcibly 
 
 enter into their soul and command their feelings On no 
 
 other principle, therefore, can I account for the superior 
 effects of Welsh oratory above the English, than by 
 granting to the ancient British tongue a pre-eminent 
 power and energy in impressing upon the soul those 
 images, which the attributes of thought is wishful to 
 convey by expression. 
 
 The Rev. Mr. Evans, author of the Topographical 
 History of North Wales, has hazarded a speculation, that 
 the period will soon come when the ancient British tongue 
 will be superseded by the adoption of the English. He 
 says, " The Welsh is getting fast into disuse through the 
 Principality, more especially the southern part. The 
 gentry of the country are principally educated in England, 
 and consequently few of them speak it ; and many of 
 them wish for its extermination. The example of the 
 higher classes is become contagious, and ere long the 
 language and manners of Cambria will by approximation 
 
10 LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. 
 
 coalesce with those of the inhabitants of the east of the 
 Severn." In opposition to this sentiment, a late Welsh 
 writer has observed, " That some advocates for the 
 abolition of the Welsh tongue are vain enough to prognos- 
 ticate a near approaching day when it will be numbered 
 with the dead languages. They see some few families 
 on the borders, and about a dozen innkeepers on the 
 roads, who speak English only ; but there are thousands 
 and tens of thousands in the wilds of Wales, who have 
 learned the language of their parents, and of their country, 
 as naturally and as innocently, as they sucked their 
 mothers' breasts, or breathed the common air ; these have 
 neither the opportunity nor inclination to learn any other 
 tongue. This is the impregnable fortress of the Welsh 
 language, where a rivetted cordial antipathy against the 
 English tongue, caused by the cruelties of Edward the 
 First, and of the Lancastrian family, dwells as commander 
 in chief. Storm this garrison, and overturn Snowdon 
 from its base." 
 
 Another strong-hold for sustaining the perpetuity of 
 the language is, the enthusiastic ardour with which it was 
 maintained by their ancient bards. Taliesin, the prince 
 of British poets, so early as the sixth century, is said to 
 have delivered a sentiment, which his countrymen have 
 ever considered an infallible prophecy ; and the conviction 
 of its truth will in no small degree tend to the accomplish- 
 ment of the prediction : — 
 
 * ' Eu Ner a folant, 
 Eu hiaith a gad want ; 
 Eu tir a gollant, 
 
 Ond gwyllt Wallia." 
 
 Yet still their Maker they shall praise, 
 And still their language yet preserve, 
 Although of country be deprived, 
 Except uncultivated Wales. 
 
 The ardent attachment of the people of the whole 
 country to their language, connected as it is with numer- 
 ous other circumstances, must ever remain an insuperable 
 obstacle to the general adoption of the English tongue. 
 
LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. 11 
 
 This persuasion is held by the most intelligent individuals 
 in the Principality, who reside there, are intimately 
 acquainted with both languages, and the peculiar prejudices 
 of the people, and whose capability of judging is therefore 
 entitled to consideration. 
 
 The following quotation, from a letter addressed to the 
 Right Hon. Lord Robert Grosvenor, M. P. explanatory 
 of the object and design of the Chester Cambrian Society, 
 by the Rev. Evan Evans, Chaplain to the Society, ought 
 to carry with it great weight on the subject : — " The 
 Principality of Wales at this moment, contains seven 
 hundred thousand inhabitants ; to the majority of whom 
 the Welsh language is the only adequate medium of 
 communication. This statement may appear exaggerated 
 to those, who have derived the knowledge of the country 
 only from occasional excursions to the most frequented 
 parts of it, and who seldom deviate from the route usually 
 
 pursued by tourists Here, it is true, the English traveller 
 
 meets with but little inconvenience ; his intercourse being 
 chiefly confined to those who have found it their interest 
 to acquire the means of accommodating him. But, were 
 the traveller to infer from this, that English is the lan- 
 guage of the Welsh peasantry, he would be as much 
 mistaken, as in concluding it to be that of the French, 
 because he meets with no inconvenience in his route 
 from Calais to Paris. My Lord, I am no stranger to my 
 native country. The greater part of my life was spent 
 amongst its hills ; studying its literature, and mingling 
 familiarly with its inhabitants ; and I am persuaded your 
 Lordship will agree with me in thinking, that I am better 
 qualified to form a correct opinion of the present state of 
 the Principality, than those who acquire their knowledge 
 only from a late and partial residence in it ; and who, 
 from their ignorance of the language of the people, are 
 but ill calculated to understand their national prejudices, 
 and their distinguishing characteristics. I feel confident, 
 my Lord, that all who gain their knowledge of Wales 
 from the same source as myself, will be led to the same 
 conclusion, viz : — that to nine-tenths of its peasantry, 
 the English language is comparatively unknown. Though 
 a conviction of the great advantages to be derived from 
 an acquaintance with it, has created among the natives a 
 
12 LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. 
 
 strong desire to acquire it, still, my Lord, the means 
 adopted for that purpose are so limited, as to remove the 
 prospect of its accomplishment, to the distance of ages. 
 Judging of the future from the past, we have reason to 
 apprehend, that for generations yet to come, the ancient 
 British language will be, throughout the Principality, 
 the language of the domestic circle, of the public mart, 
 of the Sundy schools, and of the solemn assembly." 
 
 Attempts have been made to introduce the English 
 tongue into general use among the the lower orders by 
 the establishment of English schools in various parts of 
 the Principality, but these seem to threaten nothing 
 serious against the language of the country. The little 
 that the children learn from instructors, who themselves 
 know but little, is soon afterwards lost in the natural 
 preference they have to their own tongue, and the little 
 occasion they have to speak any other. 
 
 As a last argument to allay the fears of ancient Britons 
 respecting the extermination or decay of the language, I 
 may shortly advert to the state of the Welsh Press, the 
 formation of literary societies, and the late revival of 
 Eisteddfodau throughout the Principality. Within my 
 recollection, and little more than thirty years ago, only 
 two or three paltry printing-offices were to be found in 
 North Wales, and those altogether employed on local 
 subjects. At present they are numerous and respectable, 
 and many of them engaged in giving to their countrymen 
 valuable productions on literature. A splendid Diction- 
 ary, by Dr. W. O. Pughe, has lately been issued from 
 the press of Mr. Gee, of Denbigh; and three editions of 
 a Welsh Grammar, published by Mr. Robert Davies, the 
 celebrated bard of Nantglyn ; ten or twelve magazines 
 are at this time publishing in the native language. A 
 singular proof, says a late writer, that all attempts to 
 destroy the Welsh language by arbitrary means, have only 
 tended to perpetuate it, may be found in the fact, that 
 the Welsh of these magazines is less mixed with English 
 than that which appears in books written a century ago. 
 
 The Gwyneddigion society, established in London in 
 1771, for the cultivation of the Welsh language, has 
 proved a most efficient instrument in promoting its pro- 
 fessed object, and is still in active operation. Several 
 
LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. 13 
 
 provincial societies have since sprang up in Wales, with 
 a similar design — such as the Gwyneddigion, Cymmro- 
 dorion, and other literary societies, all of which have 
 been sanctioned by the nobility and gentry of the country 
 — a fact which satisfactorily proves, either that they des- 
 pair of introducing the English language, as a substitute 
 for that of Cambria, or that they are at last convinced of 
 the superior claims of the latter. 
 
 But what has still more than any thing else given a 
 stimulus to the literature of Wales, is the revival of the 
 Eisteddfodau, or congresses of Welsh Bards. This 
 national institution is of ancient date, and was held in 
 high estimation in the early^days of British history. For 
 the long space of 220 years, these congresses slept in the 
 shades of oblivion, the last before this interval being held 
 at Caerwys, on the 26th of May, 1568, and the first after 
 it, at the same place on the 29th of May, 1798. It is 
 no part of the business of this short introduction to enter 
 into a history of the origin or objects of this ancient 
 institution, but a very interesting account of it may be 
 found in Mr. Jones's Relics of the Ancient Bards and 
 Minstrels I shall have occasion, however, more parti- 
 cularly to notice these literary and musical festivals, in 
 traversing the towns where they have been celebrated. 
 
 CHARACTER OF THE WELSH. 
 
 The traveller from South Britain, whilst visiting the 
 mountainous districts of the Principality, and beholding 
 the scattered cottages, with unmortared walls, placed on 
 the tops of ridges of lofty hills, and exposed to the wintry 
 storm, may be inclined to pity or despise the rustic in- 
 mates, as wretched and miserable. He associates enjoy- 
 ment and comfort with that more refined state of society 
 in which he has been accustomed to move, and fancies, 
 that the laborious peasant, doomed to daily drudgery and 
 hardships, with constant privations, must necessarily be 
 wretched. This, however, is a false estimate. There is 
 probably more real enjoyment in these secluded receptacles 
 of honesty, industry, and poverty, individually considered, 
 than in the crowded city. Besides that custom has 
 habituated them to their condition, and time circumscribed 
 their wants and wishes to their circumstances, that innate 
 
14 CHARACTER OF THE WELSH. 
 
 love of country and of home, which alike influences men, 
 civilized or barbarous, rivets their affections to their na- 
 tive soil and manners : — Thus the inimitable Goldsmith 
 sings, — 
 
 Yet still, even here, content can spread a charm, 
 Redress the clime, and all its rage disarm. 
 Though poor the peasant's hut, his feasts tho' small, 
 He sees his little lot the lot of all. 
 Sees no contiguous palace rear its head, 
 To shame the meanness of his humble shed ; 
 No costly lord the sumptuous banquet deal, 
 To make him loathe his vegetable meal : 
 But calm, and bred in ignorance and toil, 
 Each wish contracting, fits him for the soil ; 
 And e'en those hills that round his mansion rise, 
 Enhance the bliss his scanty fund supplies. 
 Dear is that shed to which his soul conforms, 
 And dear that hill which lifts him to the storms. 
 And as a babe, when scaring sounds molest, 
 Clings close and closer to the mother's breast, 
 So the loud torrent, and the whirlwind's roar, 
 But bind him to his native mountains more. 
 
 The Welsh are pre-eminently a religious people. The 
 religious education of the present generation has been 
 most particularly attended to. Their Sunday schools — 
 especially those belonging to the different denominations 
 of Dissenters — are thronged with scholars of all ages, 
 and admirably conducted. At the revival of these ex- 
 cellent institutions, such was the interest excited on the 
 occasion, that the old people, who had not enjoyed 
 similar advantages in their early days, unwilling to be 
 left behind by their children and grand- children, crowded 
 to the schools : and numerous instances have been known 
 of persons upwards of 70 years of age learning to read with 
 fluency, who, before, were not acquainted with a single 
 letter. The inhabitants, generally, are exceedingly well 
 versed in scripture. They devote a great portion of their 
 leisure hours to learning chapters of the bible by heart, 
 and the writer has known a single person to repeat 200 
 chapters within six weeks. They are extremely fond of 
 
CHARACTER OF THE WELSH. 15 
 
 discussing religious subjects, and when ever they meet 
 together, whether at the time of harvest on the hills to 
 cut peat, at their sheep -shearing, or on any other oc- 
 casion, they are heard discussing theological questions 
 and points of doctrine in a manner truly interesting ; dis- 
 playing, at the same time, such acuteness and thorough 
 knowledge of scripture, as can hardly be conceived by 
 those who would judge of their proficiency by comparing 
 them with the English peasantry. As the manner in 
 which the sabbath is observed is universally allowed to be 
 a certain indication of the state of religion in a country, 
 the English traveller will find a corroboration of the above 
 statement, by the strict devotional manner in which this 
 sacred day is spent in the Principality. 
 
 Another test by which the character of a nation may 
 be ascertained, is afforded us in the proceedings of the 
 courts of judicature in that country. We shall here fur- 
 nish the reader with the particulars of the Assizes held 
 in the six counties of North Wales in Autumn last : — 
 
 At the Assizes for Montgomeryshire, held at Welsh- 
 pool, there was not a single prisoner for trial, and only 
 two civil causes. 
 
 At those for Merionethshire, held at Dolgellau, only 
 two prisoners and two civil causes. 
 
 At Caernarvon there was not a single case of any kind 
 to be tried. 
 
 At Beaumaris, for Anglesey, only one prisoner and 
 one civil cause. 
 
 At Ruthin, for the county of Denbigh, only two pri- 
 soners and a few civil causes. 
 
 At Mold, for Flintshire, only one prisoner and one 
 civil cause. 
 
 It is delightful to read the addresses of the learned 
 Judge — Baron Vaughan — at all the above places, con- 
 gratulating the Grand Jury upon the happy and peaceful 
 state of the country. The following extract is from the 
 Baron's charge to the Grand Jury at Ruthin Assizes, held 
 July 28, 1834:— 
 
 " It was particularly gratifying to him, who had tra- 
 velled all the circuits in England, and who had seen crime 
 abounding to an extent so frightful in many counties 
 there, that last winter he alone tried nearly three hundred 
 
16 CHARACTER OF THE WELSH. 
 
 prisoners — it was most gratifying to him to reflect, that 
 he had hitherto tried only three prisoners on this circuit. 
 In travelling through this beautiful Principality, he had 
 been delighted to observe the religion, morality, and loy- 
 alty of its inhabitants, and those happy results which 
 flowed from them — peace, contentment, and good order." 
 
 In order to ascertain the real character of the Welsh, 
 and to obtain the most distinct traces of their native man- 
 ners and customs, we must refer to some of those se- 
 cluded districts among the mountains, that are furthest 
 removed from foreign intercourse ; and we think the fol- 
 lowing quotation may be offered without apology, from 
 Mr. Williams's observations on the Snowdon mountains, 
 and which, from the author having been a resident on 
 the spot, is intitled to the greatest credit, as descriptive 
 of the state of things in those districts, at the time when 
 it was written : he remarks as follows : — 
 
 " It would be endless to point out the absurd conjec- 
 tures, and misrepresentations of those who have of late 
 years undertaken to describe this country. Some give 
 manifestly wrong interpretations of the names of places, 
 and others, either ignorantly or maliciously, have as it 
 were caricatured its inhabitants. Travellers from Eng- 
 land, often from want of candour, and always from want 
 of necessary knowledge, impose upon the world unfa- 
 vourable as well as false accounts of their fellow-subjects 
 in Wales ; yet the candour of the Welsh is such, that 
 they readily ascribe misrepresentations to an ignorance of 
 their language, and a misconception of the honest, 
 though perhaps warm temper of those who speak it. And 
 it may be, travellers are too apt to abuse the Welsh, 
 
 because they cannot or will not speak English Their 
 
 ignorance ought not to incur disgust ; their reluctance 
 proceeds not from stubbornness, but from diffidence, and 
 the fear of ridicule. 
 
 * ' The inhabitants of the British mountains are so hu- 
 mane and hospitable, that a stranger may travel amongst 
 them without incurring any expence for diet or lodging. 
 Their fare an Englishman may call coarse ; however, 
 they commonly in farm houses have three sorts of bread, 
 namely, wheat, barley, and oatmeal ; but the oatmeal 
 they chiefly use; this, with milk, butter, cheese, and 
 
CHARACTER OF THE WELSH. 17 
 
 potatoes, is their chief summer food. They have also 
 plenty of excellent trout, which they eat in its season. 
 And for the winter they have dry salted beef, mutton, 
 and smoked rock venison, which they call Cdchyr Wde?i 9 
 i. e. 'the red upon the withe,' being hung by a withe 
 made of a willow or hazel twig. 
 
 " They very seldom brew ale, except in some of the 
 principal farm houses ; having no corn of their own grow- 
 ing, they think it a superfluous expence to throw away 
 money for malt and hops, when milk, or butter-milk 
 mixed with water, quenches the thirst as well. They 
 are hardy and very active ; but they have not the perse- 
 verance and resolution which are necessary for labourious 
 or continued undertakings, being from their infancy ac- 
 custpmed only to ramble over the hills after their cattle 
 and their sheep. In summer they go barefoot, but seldom 
 barelegged, as has been lately asserted by a traveller. 
 
 " They are shrewd and crafty in their bargains, and 
 jocular in their conversation ; very sober, and great eco- 
 nomists ; though a late tourist has given them a different 
 
 character Their greetings, when they meet any of their 
 
 acquaintance, may to some appear tedious and disagree- 
 able ; their common mode of salutation is, ' How is thy 
 heart ? how the good wife at home, the children, and 
 the rest of the family ?' and that often repeated. When 
 they meet at a public house, they will drink each other's 
 health, or the health of him to whom the mug goes at 
 every round. They are remarkably honest. 
 
 "Marriages. 
 *' The Welsh weddings are noisy, riotous, and dedi- 
 cated by the guests to drinking and singing. They are 
 frequently preceded on the evening before the marriage 
 by presents of provisions and articles of household fur- 
 niture, to the bride and bridegroom. On the wedding- 
 day, as many as can be collected, accompany them to 
 church, and from thence home, where a collection is 
 made in money from each of the guests, according to 
 their inclination or ability, which sometimes supplies a 
 considerable aid in establishing the newly married couple, 
 and in enabling them to "begin the world," as they call 
 it, with more comfort : but it is, at the same time, con- 
 
18 MARRIAGES — MODE OF BURYING. 
 
 sidered as a debt to be repaid hereafter, if called upon, 
 at any future wedding of the contributors, or of their 
 friends, or their children, in similar circumstances. In 
 some parts, a short time previous to their weddings, 
 where they mean to receive contributions, a herald with 
 a crook or wand adorned with ribbands, makes the cir- 
 cuit of the neighbourhood, and makes his bidding or in- 
 vitation in a prescribed form." 
 
 Some years have elapsed since this description of the 
 custom prevailing at Welsh marriages was written. In 
 the mean time, a great change has taken place in the 
 mode of celebrating them, which now approaches nearer 
 to the English manner. The change has been effected, 
 principally, through the interference of the Methodists, 
 who, observing that these nuptial festivities were often 
 attended by scenes of a demoralizing nature, exerted all 
 their influence in order to suppress them. 
 
 The same author goes on to describe their 
 
 " Mode of Burying. 
 
 " When the parish bell announces the death of a per- 
 son, it is immediately inquired upon what day the funeral 
 is to be ? and on the night preceding that day, all the 
 neighbours assemble at the house where the corpse is, 
 which they call Ty y Corph, i e. * the corpse's house.' 
 The coffin, with the remains of the deceased, is then 
 placed on the stools, in an open part of the house, cover- 
 ed with black cloth, or, if the deceased was unmarried, 
 with a clean white sheet, with three candles burning on 
 it. 
 
 * c This meeting is called Gwylnos, and in some places, 
 
 Pydrewn The first word means vigil ; the other is, no 
 
 doubt, a corrupt word from Paderau, or Paderenau, that 
 is, paters, or paternosters. When the assembly is full, 
 the parish clerk reads appropriate portions of the service 
 appointed for the burial of the dead : at the conclusion of 
 which, psalms, hymns, and other godly songs are sung ; 
 and since Methodism is become so prevalent, some one 
 stands up and delivers an oration on the melancholy sub- 
 ject, and then the company drop away by degrees. 
 
 " On the following day the interment takes place, be- 
 tween two and four o'clock in the afternoon, when all 
 
MODE OF BURYING— PLANTING OF GRAVES. 19 
 
 the neighbours assemble again. It is not uncommon on 
 such occasions, to see an assembly of three or four hun- 
 dred people, or even more. These persons are all treat- 
 ed with warm spiced ale, cakes, pipes and tobacco, and 
 a dinner is given to all those that come from far : I mean, 
 that such an entertainment is given at all the funerals of 
 respectable farmers. They then proceed to the church ; 
 and at the end of that part of the burial service, which 
 is usually read in the church, before the corpse is taken 
 from the church, every one of the congregation presents 
 the officiating minister with a piece of money ; the de- 
 ceased's next relations usually drop a shilling each, others 
 sixpence, and the poorer sort a penny a-piece, laying it 
 on the altar. 
 
 " This is called offering, and the sum amounts some- 
 times to eight, ten, or more pounds at a burial. The 
 parish clerk has also his offering at the grave, which 
 amounts commonly to about one -fourth of what the cler- 
 gyman received. After the burial is over, the company 
 retire to the public -house, where every one spends his 
 sixpence for ale ; then all ceremonies are over.* 
 
 ' ' The mountain people preserve themselves, in a great 
 measure, a distinct race from the lowlanders ; they but 
 very seldom come down to the lowlands for wives ; nor 
 will the lowlander often climb up the craggy steeps, and 
 bring down a mountain spouse to his cot. Their occupa- 
 tions are different, and it requires that their mates should 
 
 be qualified for such different modes of living I will not 
 
 scruple to affirm, that these people have no strange blood 
 in their veins — that they are the true offspring of the an- 
 cient Britons : they, and their ancestors from time imme- 
 
 * Time has rendered some of the particulars in this state- 
 ment obsolete, especially those with reference to the way in 
 which the guests are entertained at the house of the deceased, 
 and also with respect to their retiring as a body to the public 
 house after the funeral. Even the remote recesses of Eryri 
 have not been proof against the march of innovation ; for 
 in the mode of conducting their funerals, as well as that of 
 their marriages, considerable inroads have evidently been 
 made on the primitive manners and customs of the inha- 
 bitants. 
 
20 PLANTING OF GRAVES. 
 
 morial, have inhabited the same districts, and, in one 
 degree or other, they are all relations." 
 
 Several authors have mentioned an affecting Welsh 
 custom of planting the graves of deceased friends with 
 flowers. The last quoted authority, however, has not 
 recorded it as the practice among the Snowdonian moun- 
 tains ; and Mr. Bingley says he never witnessed it in all 
 his peregrinations in the northern part of the Principality. 
 Mr. Evans, in his topographical and historical description 
 of North Wales, thus describes it : — 
 
 " A remarkable custom prevails over most parts of 
 Wales, viz. planting the graves of departed friends with 
 various evergreens, and all the choicest gifts of Flora's 
 hand. Box -thrift, and other plants fit for edging, are 
 planted round in the shape of the grave for a border, and 
 every flower that adorns the smart paterre is placed with- 
 in ; so that the taste of the living may here be known by 
 the manner of embellishing these mansions of the dead. 
 The snow-drop, violet, and primrose, harbingers of 
 spring, denote the infant dust ; the rocket, rose, and 
 woodbine, shew maturer years ; while tansey, rue, and 
 star-wort, mark declining life. Each has its little ever- 
 green, fond emblem of that perennial state where change 
 is known no more. Nor are they, once planted, left to 
 be over-run by the luxuriancy of less delicate neighbours, 
 but constantly weeded and cherished by the hands of the 
 nearest friends of the deceased, who appropriate every 
 Saturday afternoon for the amiable weakness, or rather 
 pious remembrance of departed worth. Shakespeare 
 sweetly alludes to this custom in his Cymbeline : — 
 
 With fairest flowers, lass, 
 I'll sweeten thy sad grave ; thou shalt not lack 
 The flower that's like thy face, pale primrose, nor 
 The azure hare-bell, like thy veins. No, nor 
 The leaf of eglantine, which, not to slander, 
 Outsweeten'd not thy breath. 
 
 In the church-yard of Loughor, in Glamorganshire, is 
 
POPULATION. 21 
 
 the following pretty epitaph, containing also an allusion 
 to this custom : — 
 
 The village maidens to her grave shall bring 
 Selected garlands each returning spring — . 
 Selected sweets, in emblem of the maid 
 Who underneath this hallow'd turf is laid : 
 Like her they nourish, beauteous to the eye ; 
 Like her, too soon, they languish, fade, and die. 
 
 POPULATION. 
 
 By a comparison of the official returns of 1821 and 
 1831, it will be found, at least if we estimate the pros- 
 perity of a country by the increase of its inhabitants, 
 that North Wales is in a flourishing condition. The in- 
 crease in the intermediate periods, comprehending a space 
 of ten years, is placed at about 22,000. But I think we 
 have a right to estimate the productiveness of the species 
 in that country at a much higher rate, than appears from 
 this numerical statement. The period here taken is one 
 of almost uninterrupted agricultural depression, and the 
 labouring peasantry have suffered in a proportionate de- 
 gree from want of employment, and have been forced to 
 seek a livelihood in the neighbouring districts of England. 
 To say nothing of the thousands that annually wend their 
 way to the metropolis, in the hope of bettering their for- 
 tunes, the great manufacturing and commercial towns, 
 Manchester, Liverpool, and Bristol, and to these may 
 be added the more contiguous towns of Chester and 
 Shrewsbury, are crowded with Welshmen. Probably 
 not less than 70,000 or 80,000 Cambrians are resident of 
 these places alone. It should also be taken into account, 
 that the emigration of Englishmen into Wales does not 
 bear a comparison of one to a hundred of ancient Britons 
 who domicile in England. 
 
 But, without pursuing this speculation further, I shall 
 present the reader with the official census, as published 
 in 1821 and 1831, distinguishing the population in each 
 county, at those respective periods : — 
 
 1821. 1831. 
 
 Anglesey 45,063 48,300 
 
 Caernarvonshire 57,958 66,500 
 
22 PRELIMINARIES TO THE TOUR. 
 
 Denbighshire 76,511 82,800 
 
 Flintshire 53,784 60,100 
 
 Merionethshire 34, 382 34, 500 
 
 Montgomeryshire 59,899 65,700 
 
 327,597 357,900 
 
 PRELIMINARIES TO THE TOUR. 
 
 When an individual has once decided upon a tour in 
 North Wales, either for the purpose of pleasure or im- 
 provement ; for gratifying the visual sense, with the 
 beautiful scenery of her mountains and vallies ; exploring 
 her vast mineral productions, or collecting from her al- 
 pine tops botanical treasures, or for all these objects com- 
 bined ; it will be quite necessary before he sets out, that 
 his domestic and home concerns be so settled and ar- 
 ranged, as to leave him in full possession of a quiet and 
 easy state of mind ; that he may, as far as possible, be 
 unincumbered in his progress with cares and disquietude. 
 He that commences such an undertaking without first 
 arranging these matters, will not be able to enjoy with 
 comfort, his pursuits, whatever they may be, but will 
 rind 
 
 " He drags at each remove a lengthening chain. ,, 
 
 The next subject for consideration is, to select the best 
 season of the year at which to commence the peregrina- 
 tion. I calculate that the distance comprised in the com- 
 plete tour of Wales, will be upwards of seven hundred 
 miles ; and proceeding at the average rate of nine miles 
 a day, leaving the sabbath as a day of rest, the journey, 
 in its whole compass, would occupy about three months. 
 It should be remarked, however, in traversing such an 
 extent of country, there must be many objects, less cu- 
 rious and attractive in their nature than others, which, 
 though generally visited by the keen inquirer after the 
 stores of nature, may nevertheless be passed by, without 
 materially lessening either the tourist's gratification or 
 knowledge. On this point he will be at liberty to con- 
 sult his own judgment or inclination ; and of course, in 
 the same proportion that he adopts this licence, will the 
 time and distance be shortened. 
 
 The best season is easily determined If an excursion 
 
MODE OF TRAVELLING. 23 
 
 of three months be contemplated, June, July, and 
 August present themselves as the most suitable ; and if 
 only two, the two latter should be preferred. In these 
 months, nature appears in her best trim ; the weather 
 most settled, the atmosphere most clear and favourable 
 for surveying distant objects, and the days longest. The 
 heat of these months may be objected to, as inconve- 
 nient to travellers, but this is more than compensated by 
 the early morning light, and the lengthened evening. 
 
 MODE OF TRAVELLING. 
 
 Notwithstanding the obstacles which nature, often ca- 
 pricious in her whims, seemed to have thrown in the way 
 to an intercourse between England and the interior of 
 Wales, the perseverance of labour and art has happily 
 removed them ; and we have now as commodious a com- 
 munication as from any part of the country to the metro- 
 polis of England. From either Chester or Shrewsbury 
 to the extremity of Anglesey, a distance of more than 
 eighty miles, the traveller may pursue his way without a 
 declivity that is dangerous, or an ascent that may be said 
 to be inconvenient. With this peculiar advantage in his 
 favour, a person may select his own mode of travelling, 
 whether by a carriage, on horseback, or on foot, accord- 
 to the objects he has in view. 
 
 To the valetudinarian, who visits the country to quaff 
 the air of the mountain, or the breezes of the sea ; or to 
 those who seek a change of scene for the purpose of 
 lounging away a few of the summer months, a carriage 
 may be the most suitable and commodious. But, the con- 
 sideration of economy apart, this is not the vehicle that 
 would be chosen by the inquisitive tourist, whose busi- 
 ness it is to climb rugged mountains, dive into almost un- 
 approachable dells, survey the ruins of decayed castles, 
 and sedulously seek out the rocky cavern, where the 
 bursting cataract at once petrifies by its horrors, and im- 
 parts ecstacy by its sublimity. 
 
 Mr. Nicholson, in his Cambrian Traveller's Guide, 
 says, that he usually travelled on foot. Mr. Bingley, 
 and Mr. Warner, as the title of his book indicates, did 
 the same. It is true, that walking a long distance may 
 prove extremely inconvenient and unpleasant to some ; 
 
24 MODE OF TRAVELLING, 
 
 and none should undertake it but those who have sound 
 health, a vigorous constitution, and who have been a 
 good deal accustomed to that exercise. Dr. Mavor, 
 author of Modern and Contemporary Travels, observes, 
 k ' The comforts of a carriage are scarcely compensated 
 for, when the numerous inconveniences are taken into 
 account." The most independent way of travelling is 
 certainly on foot ; but if the traveller finds this exercise 
 too fatiguing for his bodily powers, the most pleasant 
 and satisfactory way of making a tour will be, to pur- 
 chase a sure-footed Welsh poney, as soon as he enters 
 the country, on which he may with safety prosecute his 
 course. These animals, daily accustomed to mount hills, 
 and descend vallies, acquire a particular tact for travers- 
 ing the roads peculiar to this country, and it is a very 
 rare circumstance for any of them to betray the confi- 
 dence of the rider. At all events, I do not think it 
 likely that many equestrians will be inclined to adopt the 
 style and manner of Mr. Pratt, while collecting his 
 Gleanings, of whom it is said, that he travelled upon a 
 broken-winded horse, which was so accommodating, 
 that whenever the rider dismounted, and turned aside 
 from the road for the purpose of research, he could al- 
 ways find his Rozinante again, on the spot where he left 
 it. 
 
 Upon the whole, in traversing a country like North 
 Wales, the advantages for research, and gratifying curi- 
 osity, seem greatly in favour of the pedestrian ; and in- 
 deed, of late years, this mode of travelling has been 
 adopted perhaps in nine instances out of ten. 
 
 The principal objection that can be made against walk- 
 ing, is that of carrying the luggage of a change or two 
 of linen and stockings, a choice book or two, a map, a 
 perspective glass, a drinking horn, and occasionally some 
 provisions, more savoury or palatable than a penny-roll. 
 In cases, however, where it is necessary to employ a 
 guide, he will generally relieve you from the incumbrance 
 of such a package. It should be the first aim of a pedes- 
 trian, to carry as little weight and incumbrance as possi- 
 ble. The remark of Dr. Johnson, though no pedestrian, 
 is equally just and elegant : — " It is not to be imagined, 
 without experience, how in climbing crags, and treading 
 
MODE OF TRAVELLING. 25 
 
 bogs, and winding through narrow and obstructed pas- 
 sages, a little bulk will hinder, and a little weight will 
 burden ; or how often a man, that has pleased himself at 
 home with his own resolution, will, in the hour of dark- 
 ness and fatigue, be content to leave behind him every 
 thing but himself." 
 
 The pedestrian will be benefited in attending to the 
 folio wing advice. Let this be your dress : jacket, waist- 
 coat, trowsers, and gaiters of the stuff called jean — light 
 and strong ; shoes, stout, broad, well seasoned, made 
 to each foot — what are called rights and lefts, and with- 
 out nails — the latter are dangerous on rocky ground ; top 
 the whole with a straw, or rather willow hat. Nor must 
 an umbrella by any means be forgotten ; it is a trusty 
 useful servant ; choose it of silk, and of the largest size. 
 Next for your luggage. Get made, of the brown-dressed 
 calf-skin used by saddlers, a case about seven inches and 
 a half long, by seven wide, slightly rounded at the bot- 
 tom, lined with canvas, and having a flap and button. 
 This is to be slung over the shoulder with a loop and 
 button (not buckle) ; and thus may be easily shifted to 
 either side, and adjusted to any height. A complete change 
 of linen, shaving implements, with the articles before 
 enumerated, are all it need contain ; and when filled, the 
 whole weight will not exceed four or five pounds. For 
 greater convenience, a small trunk may be dispatched, 
 when you set out, to wait your arrival somewhere, two 
 or three weeks after. 
 
 Thus lessoned and equipped, I will imagine you to 
 have travelled, by what route, and with what rapidity 
 you may, to Chester, from whence, after having examined 
 the numerous objects of curiosity that city contains, an 
 easy hour's walk will bring you into the ancient British 
 territory. 
 
 This city, from its contiguity to Wales, and its geo- 
 graphical situation, is undoubtedly the most eligible point 
 from which to start on a tour through that country. Mr. 
 Bingley informs us, that when he had determined upon a 
 ramble through all its most interesting parts, he set out 
 from Cambridge, where he was then resident, and pro- 
 ceeded in the cross-country coaches immediately to Ches- 
 ter. * ' From Chester, " he continues, ' ' I leisurely skirted 
 
26 MODE OF TRAVELLING. 
 
 the North coast of Wales, along the great Irish road, 
 through St. Asaph and Conway, to Bangor. At Caer- 
 narvon I remained for a considerable time, making excur- 
 sions in all directions among the mountains, and through 
 the principal parts of Anglesey. When I had examined 
 all the places that I could learn were worth notice, I con- 
 tinued my route entirely round the country, visiting in 
 my course, Harlech, Barmouth, Dolgellau, Machynlleth, 
 Llanidloes, Newtown, Montgomery, Welshpool, Oswes- 
 try, Wrexham, and Mold. From Mold, I crossed over 
 (towards the interior) to Ruthin, and proceeded through 
 Llangollen, Corwen, and Bala, to Shrewsbury, " where 
 he terminated his laborious journey. 
 
 There is scarcely a town or village in North Wales 
 which the compiler of the following pages has not visit- 
 ed, and in many instances several times. In his descrip- 
 tions, however, he has not wholly trusted to his own 
 observation ; but consulted the works of those tourists 
 and travellers who have established for themselves a re- 
 spectable name for accuracy of research. 
 
 An alphabetical arrangement has been adopted, rather 
 than a continuous tour ; for this reason, that few travel- 
 lers set off from the same point, and still fewer are dis- 
 posed to preserve precisely the same route, while the al- 
 phabetical form, with the aid of a copious index, will 
 instantly direct the reader to the description of any par- 
 ticular spot in the country he may be disposed to refer to. 
 
 Great care has been taken to render the work correct 
 in all its details ; and while it has been an object to avoid 
 a brevity that would render description incomplete, it 
 has been equally the wish of the compiler to shun a dif- 
 fuseness that would swell the volume to an inconvenient 
 size. It is indeed intended as a pocket companion to the 
 traveller in the Principality, and it is presumed it will be 
 found an accurate and agreeable one. 
 
GLOSSARY. 
 
 The English traveller, in passing through North Wales, 
 will find the following Welsh terms frequently occur in 
 the names of places ; to which are subjoined their sig- 
 nification in English 
 
 Ab, or Ap, a prefix to proper 
 names, signifying the son of 
 
 Aber, the fall of one water in- 
 to another, a confluence. 
 
 Am, about, around. 
 
 Ar, upon, bordering upon. 
 
 Avon, or Afon, a river 
 
 Ban, high, lofty, tall. 
 
 Bach, little, small. 
 
 Bedd, a grave or sepulchre. 
 
 Bettws, a station between hill 
 and vale. 
 
 Blaen, a point or end. 
 
 Bod, a residence. 
 
 Braich, a branch, an arm 
 
 Bron, the breast, the slope of 
 a hill. 
 
 Bryn, a hill, a mount. 
 
 Bwlch, a gap, defile, or pass. 
 
 Bychan, little, small. 
 
 Cader, a hill-fortress, a chair 
 
 Cae, an inclosure, a hedge. 
 
 Cantref, a hundred of a shire, 
 a district. 
 
 Caer, a city, a fort, a defen- 
 sive wall. 
 
 Capel, a chapel. 
 
 Cam, a heap 
 
 Carnedd, a heap of stones. 
 
 Car eg, a stone. 
 
 Castell, a castle, a fortress. 
 
 Cefn, a ridge, the upper side, 
 the back. 
 
 Cell, a cell ; also a grove. 
 
 Clawdd, a hedge, a dyke. 
 
 Clogwyn, a precipice. 
 
 Coed, a wood. 
 
 Coch, red. 
 
 Cors, a bog, or fen. 
 
 Craig, a rock, or crag. 
 
 Cil, (pronounced keel) a re- 
 treat, a recess. 
 
 Croes, a cross. 
 
 Cwm, a valley, vale, or glen. 
 
 Dinas, a city, or fort, a for- 
 tified place. 
 
 Dol, a meadow or dale, in 
 the bend of the river. 
 
 Drws, a door- way, a pass. 
 
 Du, black. 
 
 Dwfr, or Dwr, water. 
 
 Dyffryn, a valley. 
 
 Eglwys a church 
 
 Ffynnon, a well, a spring. 
 
 Ffordd, a way, a road a 
 passage, 
 
 Gallt, (mutable into Allt) a 
 cliff, an ascent, the side of 
 a hill. 
 
 Garth, a hill bending round. 
 
 Glan, a brink or shore. 
 
 Gl&s, bluish, or grayish green 
 
GLOSSARY. 
 
 Glyn, a glen, or valley through 
 which a river runs 
 
 Givern, a watery meadow 
 
 Gwydd, a wood 
 
 Gwyn, white, fair 
 
 Guri/s, a summons 
 
 Havod, a summer residence. 
 
 Is, lower, inferior, nether. 
 
 Llan, a church, a smooth 
 area, an enclosure. 
 
 Llwyn, a grove. 
 
 Maen, a stone. 
 
 Maes, a plain, an open field. 
 
 Mawr, great, large. 
 
 Melin, a mill. 
 
 Moel, a smooth conical hill. 
 
 Mynydd, a mountain. 
 
 Kant, a ravine, a brook. 
 
 Newydd, new, fresh. 
 
 Pant, a hollow, a valley. 
 
 Pen, a head, the summit; 
 also chief, or end. 
 
 Pentref, a village, a hamlet. 
 
 Pistyll, a spout, a cataract. 
 
 Plds, a hall or palace. 
 
 Plwyf, a parish. 
 
 Pont, a bridge. 
 
 Porth, a ferry, a port, agate- 
 way. 
 
 Pivll, a pit, a pool. 
 
 Rhaiadr, a cataract. 
 
 Rhiw, an ascent. 
 
 Rhos, a moist plain or mea- 
 dow. 
 
 Rhyd, a ford. 
 
 Sum, a causeway, a pave- 
 ment. 
 
 Swydd, a shire ; also an office. 
 
 Tal, the front or head ; also 
 tall. 
 
 Tan, under. 
 
 Traeth, a sand, or shore. 
 
 Tre, or Tref, a home, a town 
 
 Tri, three. 
 
 Troed, a foot, the skirt of a 
 hill. 
 
 Twr, a tower. 
 
 Ty, a house. 
 
 Waun, (from Gwaun) a mea- 
 dow, downs. 
 
 Y, the, of. t 
 
 Yn, in, at, into. 
 
 Ynys, an island. 
 
 Ystrad, a vale, a dale. 
 
 Yspytty, a hospital, an alms- 
 house. 
 
 The English traveller will find but little or no inconve- 
 nience from his ignorance of the Welsh language, at the 
 principal inns on the main roads, where English is un- 
 derstood generally, by some portion of the household. 
 But, at others, where he may find it necessary to make 
 a halt, and on his peregrinations from one place to another, 
 especially in the interior of the country, he will often ex- 
 perience some difficulty in having his inquiries understood, 
 or of understanding the answers of the natives. In order 
 to render him some assistance in this emergency, we sub- 
 join a few queries and directions, such as it is natural to 
 suppose the traveller will have frequent occasion to be 
 solved, or to give, on his travels, and at his inn. In the 
 first column, these are given in English, and in the 
 
GLOSSARY. 
 
 29 
 
 second, exactly opposite, in Welsh. If the former, there- 
 fore, be unintelligible, even an imperfect pronunciation 
 of the latter, signifying exactly the same thing, will be 
 generally understood. 
 
 Give me some water to wash 
 myself. 
 
 I want some soap. 
 
 Will you hang my top-coat by 
 the fire to dry. 
 
 I wish to take a bed here to- 
 night. 
 
 Let it be well aired. 
 
 Damp beds are very danger- 
 ous. 
 
 I want some hay, and a feed 
 of corn for my horse. 
 
 What have you for supper ? 
 
 Bring me a pint of sherry 
 wine. 
 
 A pint of good ale. 
 
 I wish to go to bed. 
 
 Call me by six in the morning. 
 
 Let my boots be cleaned. 
 
 I have taken cold. 
 
 Send for a Surgeon. 
 
 I want my breakfast. 
 
 Make me a cup of tea. 
 
 I will take coffee. 
 
 Make some toast. 
 
 Cut some bread and butter. 
 
 Is my horse taken care of? 
 
 What have you for dinner to- 
 day ? 
 
 Have you any fish ? 
 
 Have you any green peas ? 
 
 A glass of clean water. 
 
 I will take a glass of wine. 
 
 A glass of brandy and water. 
 
 Good morning to you, Sir. 
 
 How do you do to-day ? 
 
 Good night to you, Sir. 
 
 Get my breakfast ready by 
 seyen o'clock. 
 
 Rhowch i mi ddwfr i ymolchi. 
 
 Mae arnaf eisieu sebon. 
 Rhowch fy Nghob wrth y tan i 
 
 sychu. 
 Dymunwn gael gwely yma heno 
 
 Gochelwch eifodyn damp. 
 Mae gwelyau damp yn bur 
 
 beryglus. 
 Mae arnaf eisieu gwair ac yd 
 
 Vm ceffyl. 
 Beth sydd genych i siuper ? 
 Dygwch i mi beint o win gwyn. 
 
 Print o gwrw da. 
 
 Dymunwn gael myned iV gwely 
 
 Gelwchfi erbyn chwech ar gloch 
 y boreu. 
 
 Perwch lanhdufy mwtias. 
 
 Yr wyf wedi cael yr anwyd. 
 
 Anfonwch am f eddy g. 
 
 Mae arnaf eisieu fy moreufwyd. 
 
 Gwnewch i mi gwpaned o de. 
 
 Mi gymmeraf gqffi. 
 
 Creswch i mi far a. 
 
 Torwch fara ac ymenyn. 
 
 A ofalwyd amfy ngheffyl ? 
 
 Beth sydd genych i giniaw 
 heddyw ? 
 
 A oes genych ddim pysgod ? 
 
 A oes genych ddimpysgleision? 
 
 Gwydraid o ddwfr gldn. 
 
 Mi gymmeraf wydraid o win. 
 
 Gwydraid ofrandi a dwfr. 
 
 Boreu da i chwi, Syr, 
 
 Pa sut yr ydych chwi heddyw ? 
 
 Nos da i chwi, Syr. 
 
 Parotowch fy moreu-fwyd er- 
 byn saith ar gloch. 
 
•30 
 
 GLOSSARY. 
 
 Which is the road to Bala ? 
 How many miles there ? 
 Is the road hilly or even ? 
 
 Are tli ere any rivers to pass ? 
 Who is the clergyman of this 
 
 place ? 
 Where is the church? 
 Have you many dissenters 
 
 about here ? 
 Is there not a waterfall in this 
 
 neighbourhood ? 
 I have a wish to see it. 
 Can I have a guide ? 
 I will hire a poney. 
 Saddle him immediately. 
 I am wet to the skin. 
 Put my clothes to dry. 
 
 Pa un yw *r ffordd Vr Bala ? 
 Pa sawl mitltir sydd yno ? 
 A ydyw y ffordd ynfynyddig 
 
 neu yn wastad ? 
 A oes dim afonydd i'w croesi ? 
 Pwy yw Person y lie yma ? 
 
 Y'mha le y mae V < 
 
 A oes llawer o ymneillduwyr 
 
 yma ? 
 Onid oes yma raiadr yn y gym - 
 
 mydogaeth hon ? 
 Mae genyf ewyllys i'iv weled. 
 A allaffi gael cyfarwyddivr ? 
 Mi a logaf ferlyn. 
 Cyfnuywch ef yn union. 
 Yr wyfyn wlyh hyd at y croen. 
 Rhowchfy nillad i sychu. 
 
PANORAMA, &c. 
 
 ABER, 
 
 (CAERNARVONSHIRE.) 
 
 Distance from Miles Distance from Miles 
 
 Port Penrhyn 5 Penmaen Ma wr 3 
 
 Llanvair Vechan 2 Llandegai 3£ 
 
 Conway 9 London 245 
 
 Aber, or as it is called by way of distinction, Aber- 
 gwyngregyn, * The Conflux of the White Shells, is a 
 small neat village, situated on the Holyhead and Chester 
 road, near the Lavan Sands, at the extremity of a fine 
 vale watered by the river Gwyngregyn, which runs into 
 the Irish sea ; it commands a fine view of the entrance 
 into the Menai, with the islands of Anglesey and Priest- 
 holm, and the great expanse of water between them and 
 Ormshead. The pleasantness of its situation, and the 
 salubrity of its air, render this place exceedingly attrac- 
 tive during the summer season, and the beach, at high 
 water, is very convenient for sea bathing. 
 
 The church is an ancient structure, with a square tower ; 
 the living is in the gift of Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley. 
 
 The Bulkeley Arms is an excellent inn, where post- 
 chaises and cars may be had. 
 
 This is considered a very convenient station for such 
 persons as wish to examine Penmaen-mawr, and the ad- 
 jacent country, either as naturalists or artists. From this 
 place also persons frequently cross the Menai strait imme- 
 
 * Dr. O. Pughe says, that in some ancient documents, 
 he has seen this place called Aber- Gwyngyngreawdwr* 
 
32 
 
 diately into Anglesey, in a direction towards Beaumaris. 
 The distance is somewhat more than six miles. — When 
 the tide is out, the Lavari Sands are dry for four miles, 
 in the same direction, over which the passenger has to 
 walk within a short distance of the opposite shore, where 
 the ferry-boat plies. In fogs, the passage over these 
 sands has been found very dangerous, and many have 
 been lost in making the hazardous enterprise at such 
 times. As a very salutary precaution, the bel] of Aber 
 church, which was presented for the purpose by the late 
 Lord Bulkeley, in 1817, is rung in foggy weather, with 
 a view to direct those persons whose business compels 
 them to make the experiment. It would be dangerous 
 for a stranger to undertake the journey without a guide, 
 as the sands frequently shift ; however, since the erection 
 of the Menai bridge, this route is seldom taken. 
 
 The village is situated at the mouth of the deep glen, 
 which runs in a straight line a mile and a half between 
 the mountains, and is bounded on one side by a magnifi- 
 cent rock, called Maes y Gaer. At the extremity of 
 this glen, a mountain presents a concave front, in the 
 centre of which a vast cataract precipitates itself down a 
 double fall, upwards of sixty feet in height. The quan- 
 tity of water is very considerable, and is thrown, unless 
 after much rain, in a single sheet from above. In the bed 
 of the river, as in those of most mountain torrents, are 
 scattered numerous fragments of rocks, the appearance 
 of which is peculiarly picturesque. 
 
 At the entrance of the glen, close to the village, is a 
 very large artificial mount, flat at the top, and near sixty 
 feet in diameter, widening towards the base. It was 
 once the site of a castle belonging to Lly welyn the Great. 
 Some foundations are yet to be seen round the summit, 
 and in digging, traces of buildings have been discovered. 
 In this place was detected the intrigue of William de Breos, 
 a potent baron, with Llywelyn's wife. This individual 
 was taken prisoner by Llywelyn at the siege of Montgo- 
 mery, in the reign of Henry III. During his captivity 
 at Aber, he not only gained the friendship of his con- 
 queror, but the affections of his wife, with whom he 
 carried on an intrigue. This did not come to the know- 
 ledge of the prince, till after the baron had obtained his 
 
ABER — ABERDARON. 33 
 
 ransom. He then solicited the favour of a visit; and 
 having once more got De Breos in his power, gratified 
 his revenge by hanging him on a hill opposite his palace, 
 and shewing him in this situation to his wife, sarcastically 
 asking her previously, what she would give for a sight 
 of her lover. Tradition has preserved the memory of 
 this event in a Welsh distich, which has been translated 
 thus :— 
 
 Lovely princess, said Llywelyn, 
 
 What will you give to see your Gwilym ? 
 
 To which the Princess replied — 
 
 Wales, and England, and Llywelyn, 
 I'd give them all to see my Gwilym. 
 
 ABERDARON, 
 
 (CAERNARVONSHIRE . ) 
 
 Caernarvon 36 Pwllheli 16 
 
 Nevyn 16 
 
 This is a miserably poor village, at the very extremity 
 of Caernarvonshire, seated on a sandy bay, beneath 
 some high and sandy cliffs. On the summit of a pro- 
 montory are the ruins of a small church, called Capel 
 
 Vair, or Chapel of our Lady The chapel was placed 
 
 here to give the seamen an opportunity of invoking the 
 tutelar saint for protection through the dangerous sound. 
 Not far distant, are also the ruins of another chapel, 
 called Anhaelog. 
 
 The church is a very old structure, in the style of an- 
 cient English architecture, dedicated to St. Hyrwyn, a 
 saint of the Island of Bardseye, was formerly collegiate 
 and had the privilege of a sanctuary ; it contains a nave, 
 south aisle, and chancel, and is now in a very dilapidated 
 state, but appears to have been an elegant and highly 
 finished building. There are yet remaining some parts 
 of stalls in the chancel. 
 
 The mouth of the bay is guarded by two little islands, 
 called Ynys Gwylan, a security to the small craft of the 
 inhabitants, who are chiefly fishermen. It takes its name 
 
34 BARDSEYE ISLAND. — ABERDOVEY. 
 
 from the small rivulet, the Daron, which empties itself 
 here. 
 
 This place was formerly much resorted to by devotees, 
 for embarking to Bardsey island, on their pilgrimage to 
 a monastery there. 
 
 Bardsey Island, 
 Generally called by the Welsh, Yr Ynys JErilli (the 
 Island of the Current), is situated about three leagues to 
 the west of Aberdaron ; it is somewhat more than two 
 miles long and one broad, and contains about 370 acres 
 of land, of which near one-third is occupied by a high 
 mountain, affording sustenance only to a few sheep and 
 rabbits. The number of inhabitants do not exceed one 
 hundred, and their chief employment is fishing, there 
 being great abundance round the island. It is the property 
 of Lord Newborough. 
 
 On the south-east side, which is only accessible to the 
 mariner, there is a small well sheltered harbour, capable 
 of admitting vessels of 30 or 40 tons burden. The light- 
 house was erected in 1821 ; it is a handsome square 
 tower, 74 feet high, and surmounted by a lantern, 10 
 feet high. 
 
 This Island was formerly celebrated for an abbey, but 
 only some small portions are now remaining. Dubricius, 
 Archbishop of Caerlleon, resigned his see to St. David, 
 retired here, and died a. d. 612 ; he was interred upon 
 the spot, but such was the veneration paid to his memory 
 in after ages, that his remains were removed in the year 
 1107 to Llandaff, and interred in that Cathedral, of which 
 Dubricius had been the first Bishop. After the slaughter 
 of the monks of Bangor, not only the brethren who sur- 
 vived, but numerous other Britons who had embraced 
 the Christian doctrines, took refuge on this island. 
 
 ABERDOVEY, 
 
 (MERIONETHSHIRE.) 
 
 Aberystwyth across Dolgellau 21 
 
 the sands 11 Machynlleth 10 
 
 Barmouth 16 Towyn 4 
 
ABERDOVEY ABERFFRAW. 35 
 
 This is a small sea-port in the parish of Towyn, and 
 about four miles from that place. It is pleasantly situated 
 on the northern side of the mouth of the river Dovey, 
 which here empties itself into Cardigan bay, and is rapidly 
 rising into estimation as a bathing place. The beach is 
 highly favourable for bathing, being composed of hard 
 firm sand, affording a perfectly safe carriage-drive of about 
 eight miles in length, along the margin of the sea. The 
 ride to Towyn along the sands, at low water, is extremely 
 delightful. 
 
 Several respectable houses and a commodious hotel, 
 (the Corbet Arms) have of late years been erected for 
 the accommodation of visitors ; and a chapel of ease has 
 also been lately built by subscription, which will afford 
 great convenience to the inhabitants, who are four miles 
 distant from the parochial church. 
 
 The river Dovey is here one mile in width, and is 
 crossed by a ferry, which leads by a road along the sea 
 shore to Borth, whence is a communication with the 
 Aberystwyth road. During the spring tides the ferry can 
 only be crossed at low water, on account of the sands 
 being flooded, and so rendered impassable. The river is 
 navigable nine miles up a most picturesque country, and 
 affords good trout fishing. 
 
 The post calls at the hotel every afternoon at three 
 o'clock, on his way from Towyn to Machynlleth, which 
 is the post town. There are places of worship for Cal- 
 vinisticand Wesleyan Methodists, with Sunday schools 
 attached. 
 
 ABERFFRAW, 
 
 (ANGLESEY.) 
 
 Caernarvon Terry 3 Newborough 7 
 
 Mona Inn 8 
 
 Aberffraw, once a princely residence, is now reduced 
 to a few small houses ; it is situated on the river Ffraw, 
 near a small bay. Not a vestige is to be seen of its former 
 boast. — It was a chief seat of our princes, and one of the 
 three courts of justice for the Principality. Here was 
 
36 ABERFFRAW ABERGELE. 
 
 always kept one of the three copies of the ancient code 
 of laws. This place is of great antiquity, being one of 
 the three fixed upon by Roderic the Great, about the 
 year 870, for the residence of his successors. In 962 it 
 was ravaged by the Irish. An extent was made of Aber- 
 ffraw in the 13th Edward III. from which may be learned 
 some of the ancient revenues of the Welsh princes. It 
 appeared that part arose from the rents of lands, from the 
 profits of mills and fisheries, and often from things taken 
 in kind ; but the last more frequently commuted for their 
 value in money. 
 
 ABERGELE, 
 
 (DENBIGHSHIRE.) 
 
 Bangor... 27 Rhuddlan 5 
 
 Chester 35 Rhyl 8 
 
 Conway 12 St. Asaph 7 
 
 London 225 
 
 Abergele, a market town, is pleasantly situated on the 
 great Chester and Holyhead road, on the edge of Rhudd- 
 lan Marsh, and near a mile from the sea-shore. The 
 church is called by Pennant, a long awkward pile, with 
 a high tower steeple. The town consists only of one long 
 street; and in 1831, its population, with the parish, was 
 returned at 2506. 
 
 The coast is composed of firm hard sands, affording 
 
 delightful drives of many miles Tradition says, the sea 
 
 has in old time overflowed a vast tract of inhabited coun- 
 try, once extending at least three miles northward ; as an 
 evidence of which a dateless epitaph, in Welsh, on the 
 churchyard wall, is cited, which is thus translated: •' In 
 this churchyard lies a man who lived three miles to the 
 north of it." There is, however, much stronger proof 
 in the fact, that at low water may be seen, at a distance 
 from the clayey bank, a long tract of hard loam, in which 
 are imbedded numerous bodies of oak trees, tolerably 
 entire, but so soft as to cut with a knife as easily as wax : 
 the wood is collected by the poorer people, and after be- 
 ing brought to dry upon the beach, is used as fuel. 
 
 The salubrity of the air, the pleasantness of situation, 
 
ABERGELE. 37 
 
 and the superiority of its shore for sea bathing, have ren- 
 dered this place a favourite resort for genteel company, 
 and it has long been a fashionable bathing place : the en- 
 virons are picturesque, the scenery beautiful, and afford 
 numerous interesting excursions. It is much to be re- 
 gretted that cottages and lodging houses should not be 
 erected on the shore, which would not fail to attract 
 company . at present the persons visiting Abergele are 
 obliged to remain at the hotel, or be satisfied with indif- 
 ferent accommodations in the town, which is at the distance 
 of a mile from the shore, and the road is very bad, in wet 
 weather almost impassable on foot. It is but justice to 
 observe, that the Bee inn is a most comfortable house, 
 and affords such accommodations as are rarely to be met 
 with at an inn. Besides the Chester and Holyhead and 
 other coaches that pass through Abergele, there is an 
 omnibus that runs from here daily to Voryd, to meet the 
 Liverpool and Rhyl steam packet. 
 
 About a mile from Abergele, on the left of the road 
 towards Conway, stands Gwrych Castle, a modern cas- 
 tellated mansion, the property and residence of Henry 
 Lloyd Bamford Hesketh, Esq. The situation is admir- 
 ably chosen to afford an extensive view of the sea coast, 
 and of the ocean, and of other interesting objects. Every 
 vessel that leaves Liverpool and Chester is seen from the 
 castle, sometimes to the number of more than two hun- 
 dred sail in a tide, as well as the steam boats for the Isle 
 of Man, Ireland, and Scotland. Very near to this man- 
 sion is a huge calcareous rock, called Cefn-yr- Ogo\ or 
 the Back of the Cavern; — an inexhaustible mine of 
 lime-stone, where a multitude of labourers are constantly 
 employed in blasting the rock, and breaking the masses, 
 which is exported to Liverpool and other places. But 
 what chiefly renders it curious is, the circumstance of a 
 number of natural caverns penetrating its side in different 
 places ; one of which, called Oyo\ or the Cavern, is 
 well worth a visit. Its mouth resembles the huge arched 
 entrance of a Gothic cathedral. A few feet within this, 
 and immediately in the centre of it, a rock rising from 
 the floor to the lofty roof, not unlike a massive pillar 
 rudely sculptured, divides the cavern into two apartments. 
 The hollow to the left soon terminates ; but that to the 
 
38 ABERGELE LLANDDULAS ST. GEORGE. 
 
 right spreads into a large chamber thirty feet in height, 
 and stretching to an uncertain depth, as human curiosity 
 has never been hardy enough to attempt ascertaining it. 
 Making a short turn a few yards from the entrance, and 
 sweeping into the interior of the mountain, the form and 
 dimensions of this abyss are concealed in impenetrable 
 darkness, and its windings can only be followed about 
 forty yards with prudence, when the light totally disap- 
 pears, and the flooring becomes both dirty and unsafe. 
 Stalactities of various fanciful forms decorate the fretted 
 roof and sides of this extraordinary cavern, the entrance 
 of which commands a view surprisingly grand and exten- 
 sive. 
 
 From Cave Hill (Cefn-yr-Ogo ') is an extensive and 
 varied prospect. — The city of St. Asaph, the Vale of 
 Clwyd, the mountains of Flintshire, a portion of Cheshire 
 and Lancashire, with the town of Liverpool, in clear 
 weather, are all distinctly seen to the eastward ; and to the 
 north is visible the Isle of Man ; to the west, the island 
 of Anglesey ; and to the south-west, the mountains of 
 Caernarvonshire. Just below is the small village of 
 
 Llanddulas. 
 In this little village or glen it is supposed Richard II. was 
 surrounded and taken by a band of ruffians, secreted by 
 the Earl of Northumberland for the purpose of forcing 
 him into the hands of Bollingbroke, who was at Flint. 
 
 Returning to Abergele, and at the opposite end, is a 
 good and direct road to Rhuddlan, through the middle of 
 excellent and extensive corn farms. This road crosses 
 the celebrated Morva Rhuddlan, or Rhuddlan Marsh. 
 
 About three miles on the St. Asaph road is the neat and 
 clean little village of 
 
 St. George, or Llan Saint Sior;* 
 and about a quarter of a mile before you come to it, you 
 
 * There is a tradition current in this neighbourhood, that 
 Oliver Cromwell was concealed at Kiiimel, when Carter his 
 general lived there ; and there is a spur of extraordinary 
 dimensions still hung in the above church, which is called 
 Oliver Cromwell's Spur. 
 
ABERYSTWYTH, 39 
 
 pass on your right Pen-y-park Hill, on the top of which is 
 the scite of Owen Gwynedd's camp, after his "fine re- 
 treat before Henry II. whom he here kept at bay." The 
 curious may visit it from the village, inquiring for Park 
 Meirch, where the old battles were fought. And close to 
 this place is Dinorben, an ancient Manor-house, from 
 which is the name of Lord Dinorben, whose residence, 
 Kinmel Park, is a little beyond, and close to the village. 
 The mansion is seen from the road ; it is modern, large, 
 and elegant, and the interior bears the same character of 
 comfort and elegance. The park is finely wooded and 
 well stocked with deer. The scenery from the house is 
 very rich and beautiful; the gardens and grounds are 
 extensive and tastefully laid out. His Royal Highness 
 the Duke of Sussex has, for several years past, annually 
 spent some weeks at Kinmel, in the shooting season. 
 
 Not far from Kinmel, towards St. Asaph, is Bod- 
 elwyddan, the modern elegant mansion of Sir John 
 Williams, Bart. 
 
 ABERYSTWYTH, 
 
 (CARDIGANSHIRE.) 
 
 Devil's Bridge ......... 12 London, by Ross ....217 
 
 Llanidloes 30 Machynlleth 18 
 
 [It may be necessary to apprise the reader, that though 
 this work is professedly a description of North Wales 
 only, it has been thought advisable to deviate from 
 the letter of its title, so far as to include within its 
 pages the above distinguished town, and that great and 
 attractive curiosity, the Devil's Bridge ; both of which, 
 situated in Cardiganshire, the North Wales tourist 
 usually visits, the town, being only 18 miles beyond 
 Machynlleth, and the cataract, the same distance from 
 Llanidloes.] 
 
 Aberystwyth has long been esteemed a fashionable 
 watering place ; the gently sloping beach, the clearness 
 of the water, and the salubriousness of the air, have all 
 conspired to render it an inviting spot for sea-bathing ; 
 and within the last few years, the efforts of art have been 
 
40 ABERYSTWYTH. 
 
 sedulously employed in seconding the work of nature, by 
 furnishing to its visitants excellent roads, superior accommo- 
 dations, and suitable buildings for fashionable amusements ; 
 to which may be added, that pleasant walks have been 
 formed in the environs. The town, which owes its origin 
 to the erection of the castle, is described by Leland as 
 having been emcompassed by walls, (the last remains of 
 which were removed some years since) and as being in 
 his time a better market than Cardigan ; and Camden, 
 who ascribes the building of its walls to Gilbert de Clare, 
 Earl of Strongbow, states that it was then the most po- 
 pulous town in the county. Since that period it has 
 materially increased, both in extent and importance, and 
 may be still regarded as the most nourishing place in this 
 part of South Wales, its population in 1831* being re- 
 turned at 4128. It is pleasantly situated at the lower 
 extremity of the valley of Rheidiol, amid lofty hills, and 
 on a bold eminence overlooking the bay of Cardigan, by 
 which it is bounded on one side, while on the other it is 
 environed by the Rheidiol, over which is a stone bridge 
 of five arches, forming an entrance to it from the south. 
 
 The houses are in general well built, and of respectable 
 appearance, several of them being large and handsome, 
 especially such as are of modern erection, which are en- 
 tirely of stone. The streets are disposed with consider- 
 able regularity, and well paved and macadamized. The 
 inhabitants are supplied with water from the river Rheidiol, 
 which is brought into the town on carriages in the form 
 of small carts, drawn by one horse, each holding two 
 barrels, and sold at a low rate. About the commence- 
 ment of the last century it began to rise into notice as a 
 bathing place, and from a series of progressive improve- 
 ments, is now one of the most frequented places of 
 fashionable resort on this part of the coast. 
 
 The beach affords a pleasant and interesting walk ; and 
 the shore, consisting of lofty and precipitous rocks of 
 dark-coloured slate, is worn by the action of the waves, 
 into caverns of romantic and picturesque appearance. 
 
 * The reader is requested to notice, that in all places in 
 which the population is given, the return is taken from the 
 Reform Act of 1831. 
 
ABERYSTWYTH. 41 
 
 The beach is composed of fine pebbles, among which are 
 found many valuable stones ; the water in consequence is 
 always peculiarly clear, and uncontaminated with any 
 admixtures. In sandy situations the contrary is frequently 
 the case. The fine stones are picked up with great avi- 
 dity by the numerous visitors residing here in the summer 
 months, and afford ample employment to several lapida- 
 ries in the town. Hot sea- water, vapour, and medicated 
 baths are provided with every requisite accommodation ; 
 several bathing machines are in attendance, and from the 
 convenient sloping of the beach, a facility of bathing is 
 afforded at almost any state of the tide, within a very 
 short distance of the shore. For the accommodation of 
 the increasing number of visitors, many additional lodg- 
 ing houses have been built, of which the Marine Terrace, 
 a handsome range of modern buildings, affording every 
 accommodation for private families, is situated on the 
 margin of the bay, commanding a fine marine view, en- 
 livened by the frequent arrival and departure of vessels 
 trading to these coasts : in this range is the Belle Vue, a 
 spacious and commodious hotel ; and in front, where the 
 beach is level, is a fine promenade. On the south-west 
 of the Marine Terrace, is a gateway leading to a spacious 
 castellated mansion, of unique appearance, called the 
 Castle-house, commanding an extensive view across the 
 bay : it was originally built as a private mansion by the 
 late Sir Uvedale Price, Bart, of Foxley hall, Hereford- 
 shire, and consists of three octagonal towers, connected 
 by ranges of apartments, and having a light and elegant 
 
 balcony on the side towards the sea Beyond this, on 
 
 one side is the Castle Hill, crowned with the venerable 
 ruins of that ancient fortress, and forming another fa- 
 vourite promenade, affording from different points various 
 extensive, romantic, and interesting views of the sea, the 
 neighbouring hills, and the surroundiug country. 
 
 On the other side of the Castle Hill, separated only by 
 the churchyard, are the new public rooms, handsomely 
 built in the Grecian style of architecture, on ground given 
 by W. E. Powell, Esq. of Nant Eos, from a design by Mr. 
 Repton, at an expence of £2000, raised by subscription 
 in shares of £10 each, and opened to the public in 1820. 
 The suite consists of a very handsome assembly and pro- 
 
42 ABERYSTWYTH. 
 
 menade room, a card-room, and a billiard-room. There 
 is a good library in the new market-place ; a new theatre 
 has been built on the north parade, and was opened for 
 the first time in the summer of 1833. The church, de- 
 dicated to St. Michael, was built by subscription in the 
 year 1787: it is a plain structure, situated within the 
 precincts of the castle, and separated from the walks 
 along the ruins of that edifice by a stone wall, erected at 
 the expense of the inhabitants. A gallery was erected 
 in the church at its western end in the year 1790, at an 
 expense of £104 14s. which was defrayed by Mrs. Mar- 
 garet Pryce. The service is performed in the morning 
 and evening in the English language, and in the afternoon 
 in Welsh ; there is likewise service in the evenings of 
 Thursday, in the English language. 
 
 The augmented population of this place, and the in- 
 creased number of visitors during the season, having 
 rendered the erection of another place of worship neces- 
 sary, a church or chapel has been recently built upon a 
 larger scale by subscription, after a plan by Mr. Haycock, 
 of Shrewsbury, in the modern gothic style, at an ex- 
 pense of £3600, including a grant of £1000 from the 
 parliamentary commissioners, and £400 from the society 
 for the enlargement of churches and chapels, and was 
 consecrated in September, 1833. The parish church is 
 situated at Llanbadarn, at about a mile distant from the 
 town, of which the Rev. John Hughes, an eminent 
 clergyman, is now vicar, and incumbent of Aberystwyth. 
 There is a peculiarity regarding the grave -stones at this 
 place : they are generally fixed in a stack of bricks built 
 up for the purpose, and white- washed, the tablet appear- 
 ing in front. The surface of the grave is generally paved 
 with a kind of small marble stone, which are found in 
 abundance on the beach. There are also places of wor- 
 ship for Baptists, Independents, and Calvmistic and 
 Wesleyan Methodists. The place likewise possesses the 
 advantage of a chalybeate spring, situated at a very short 
 distance east of the town. This spring was discovered 
 by a kind of accident in 1779. It is highly spoken of, as 
 containing valuable medicinal properties, and much re- 
 sembling the Tunbridge waters ; but it is always advisa- 
 ble that a physician, should be consulted, as to the season 
 
ABERYSTWYTH. 43 
 
 and extent of its use. To complete the circle of attrac- 
 tions which this interesting place presents, the annual 
 races here are rising into repute ; these usually take place 
 in August, in a large field near Gogerddan, about three 
 miles from the town, and last two days. Archery and 
 cricket clubs have also been established, and are upheld 
 with great spirit. And lastly, the lovers of angling may 
 be gratified with their favourite diversion. The Ystwyth 
 and the Rheidiol are in the immediate vicinity ; the au- 
 tumnal fishing for salmon and sewin is excellent ; and 
 within a day's excursion, a variety of lake-fishing will 
 afford the best of sport. 
 
 Aberystwyth appears to have been strongly fortified, and 
 shews at present the fragments of its old castle, occupy- 
 ing a projection of slate rock, and protecting the town 
 on the sea-side, while it commands on the other, the 
 whole of the conflux of the Ystwyth and Rheidiol, with 
 a beautiful view of the vale. It was built by Gilbert de 
 Strongbow about 1107, but demolished soon after, and 
 again rebuilt by Edward I. in 1277. About 1377, we 
 find it in the possession of Owen Glyndwr, who was be- 
 sieged in it by Henry IV. by whom the castle was taken ; 
 but it was again recovered by Glyndwr, who placed in it 
 
 a strong garrison of Welshmen During the unhappy 
 
 contest between Charles I. and his Parliament, this castle 
 was kept for the king, until the garrison were compelled 
 to surrender to Cromwell, who again garrisoned it for the 
 parliament. Since that time it has remained in a state of 
 decay — a picturesque heap of ruins ; the gateway, and 
 several towers in the walls alone marking its former ex- 
 tent. In front of the gateway is a modern ravelin, thrown 
 up during the siege in 1647 ; the rest of the remains was 
 the work of Edward I. On the north-west is part of a 
 tower, about forty feet high, and an arched door-way is 
 still preserved. A round tower is also existing ; another 
 has been rapaired and converted into a kind of observa- 
 tory, but is now in a very ruinous condition. Previous 
 to the castle surrendering to Cromwell, a mint was esta- 
 blished within the castle walls for the convenience of 
 
 paying the miners Several silver pieces coined here, 
 
 with the impression of an ostrich feather, the one for 20s. 
 others for 10s. and several smaller sums, are now in pos- 
 
44 ABERYSTWYTH. 
 
 session of many respectable individuals. A public walk 
 was traced with considerable taste and ingenuity among 
 the fragments of the castle, at the expence of the late 
 John Probert, Esq. of Copthorn, near Shrewsbury, agent 
 to the Powys family. In Queen Elizabeth's reign a com- 
 pany of Germans reaped a large fortune in working the 
 silver mines in the vicinity of this town. Sir Hugh Myd- 
 delton, after them, was equally successful, and accumu- 
 lated £2000 a month out of one silver mine at Bwlch yr 
 Eskir, which enabled him (in 1614) to bring the new 
 river to London. He again, was succeeded hy Mr. 
 Bushel!, a servant of Sir Francis Bacon, who also gained 
 such immense profits, that he made Charles I. a present 
 of a regiment of horse, and clothed his whole army ; he 
 also furnished him a loan of £40,000, in his necessities, 
 which was considered as a gift ; and when that unfortu- 
 nate prince was pressed, he raised a regiment among his 
 miners, also at his own charge. 
 
 On Pen Dinas, a very high and steep hill, near the 
 bridge over the Rheidiol, is a large entrenchment, still 
 in a good state of preservation, and where, Caradoc in- 
 forms us, Rhys ap Gruffydd, in 1113, encamped his 
 forces, which, by a manoeuvre of the English, were en- 
 ticed from the hill over the bridge, to besiege Aberystwyth 
 castle, where they were surrounded and cut off almost to 
 a man. The tradition of the town attributes this en- 
 trenchment to the forces employed by Cromwell to besiege 
 the castle. Opposite this, on a hill at the extremity of the 
 town, are two other entrenchments, in a bad state of 
 preservation, and destitute of the tumili or barrows, often 
 found contiguous to Welsh entrenchments ; the one is 
 square and the other circular, having beneath it on one 
 side several shelves of earth. 
 
 Aberystwyth is a place of considerable trade ; but the 
 harbour, being a bar harbour, is of uncertain and often 
 dangerous navigation, and frequently choked up, until 
 the land freshes come down, after heavy falls of rain, 
 and force a passage, occasioning even the detention of 
 the smallest craft for a considerable period, to the great 
 injury of the individuals concerned, the obstruction of 
 the trade of the port, and the consequent drawback upon 
 its prosperity. The trustees, acting under the harbour 
 
ABERYSTWYTH. 45 
 
 act, passed in 1780, being empowered to raise the sum 
 of £4000 for its improvement, upon mortgage of the dues, 
 and seeing the necessity of doing something more effectu- 
 ally than the works they were occasionally enabled to 
 erect by the expenditure of the annual revenue, which 
 were constantly being swept away by the sea, determined 
 upon employing that eminent engineer and hydrographer, 
 the late Mr. Nimmo, to survey the harbour, and to give 
 his report thereon. The report having been published, 
 by which it appeared that a sum of £10,000 was necessary 
 to carry his suggestions into effect; a committee was 
 formed, who have issued a prospectus, soliciting subscrip- 
 tions from those disposed to aid them in the accomplish- 
 ment of so desirable an object, and the following 
 munificent donations have been already made : the Duke 
 of Newcastle, the new proprietor of Hafod, £1000; the 
 Earl of Lisburne, £500 ; Colonel Powell, M. P. £500 ; 
 Pryce Pryce, Esq. M. P. £500. 
 
 Aberystwyth exports a great quantity of lead, calamine, 
 and oak bark ; likewise a few manufactured goods, such 
 as webs, flannels, and stockings, mostly sent to Liver- 
 pool and Bristol. It also imports, for the use of the 
 country around, cast-iron goods from Coalbrookdale, 
 (shipped at Bristol) grain from Ireland, coal from the 
 southern parts of Wales, and a great quantity of porter 
 from Bristol, which is consumed here during the bathing 
 season, although their own malt liquor is equal to any in 
 the Principality. In 1745, ten thousand barrels of her- 
 rings were taken here, and in 1732, there was taken one 
 hundred and thirteen bottle noses, some fifteen feet long, 
 which yielded a great quantity of blubber. During the 
 season, or in September, October, and November, a 
 great number of herrings are still taken, but very incon- 
 siderable compared with the quantity above-mentioned, 
 which then employed annually about 500 persons. Here 
 is likewise a considerable fishery for cod and mackerel, 
 which are sent as far as Shrewsbury ; so that probably 
 the whole of its commerce employs about fifty vessels, 
 manned with several hundred men. The custom-house 
 was erected about the year 1773, near the beach, and the 
 business thereof removed from Aberdovey ; but in 1829, 
 a new one was erected overlooking the harbour, in a con- 
 
46 ABERYSTWYTH. 
 
 venient situation for the shipping. The new market-hall 
 for corn was opened in 1832 ; the market-day is on Monday. 
 The walks and drives in the vicinity of the town are 
 numerous and engaging, and from the numerous emin- 
 ences by which the town is environed on the land side, 
 views the most varied and interesting present themselves 
 to the lover of the picturesque. From the summit of 
 Pen Dinas, he at once beholds three beautiful vallies, 
 with the rivers Ystwyth and Rheidiol winding their devi- 
 ous Course on either side beneath his feet. On turning 
 round he is gratified with a magnificent view of the ex- 
 pansive bay of Cardigan, with its bold coast stretching 
 out on either hand to the extremity of Cardiganshire, on 
 the southern side, and that of Caernarvon on the northern ; 
 the latter embracing within its range, the rockey ridge of 
 Cader Idris and the snow-capped peak of Snowdon. The 
 prospect from the top of Craig-las is equally beautiful 
 and diversified. The new line of road to Hereford and 
 Shrewsbury, lately completed at an expence of £4000, 
 along the opposite bank of the Rheidiol, to the Devil's 
 Bridge road, and nearly parallel with it, passes through 
 some fine scenery, and the course of the river from the 
 excellent new inn at Ponterwyd, is wild and terrific, 
 particularly about the spot called the Parson's Bridge, 
 half a mile therefrom. 
 
 The Belle Vue hotel is an excellent house, situated on 
 the Marine Parade. It may fairly be classed with the 
 first establishments on the coast, both as regards the in- 
 ternal arrangements, and the well-ordered management 
 of the posting department. The Gogerddan Arms and 
 Lion hotel, is also a house where the accommodation in 
 point of attention and domestic comfort is unexception- 
 able. The Talbot inn, lately rebuilt on the same site as 
 the former inn of that name, is favourably spoken of. 
 
 Coaches run daily in the summer season to Shrews- 
 bury, Worcester, and Hereford ; and three times a week 
 to South Wales ; also to Kidderminster, Cheltenham, and 
 Birmingham, throughout in a day. 
 
THE devil's bridge. 47 
 
 THE DEVIL'S BRIDGE, 
 
 (CARDIGANSHIRE .) 
 
 Aberystwyth 12 Llanidloes 18 
 
 Hafod 4 
 
 We here introduce a description of this phenomenon of 
 nature, for reasons given in a note which stands at the 
 head of the preceding article ; and as it is situated on the 
 road leading from Aberystwyth to North Wales, to which 
 
 our descriptive labours are professedly restricted In the 
 
 delineation of this extraordinary object, we have availed 
 ourselves of the observations of several celebrated tra- 
 vellers ; and we are convinced if more were added to 
 their number, fresh and distinct traits of beauties would 
 be discoverable in each. 
 
 Pont y Monach, or Pont ar Fynach, vulgarly, the 
 Devil's Bridge, near the Hafod Arms inn, Cardigan- 
 shire, is a single arch, about 30 feet in the chord, thrown 
 over another arch of less than 20 feet, under it, which 
 spans a dark and tremendous chasm. The under arch is 
 said to have been thrown across by the monks of Ystrad 
 Florida Abbey, about the year 1087; but the country 
 people, thinking so bold an effort above the reach of their 
 spiritual fathers, ascribed it to his satanic majesty. The 
 derivation of the name of the Devil's Bridge, according 
 to the tradition of the country, which the lower unin- 
 formed class believe, is as follows : — " An old woman, 
 in search of her strayed cow, saw her on the opposite 
 side of the cleft rock, and in this lamentable case the 
 devil appeared, sympathized with her deeply, and offered 
 to accommodate her with a bridge over the chasm, if she 
 would suffer him to take the first who passed over it. 
 Reflecting that as she must be ruined in one case, she could 
 but be ruined in the other, she desperately complied. A 
 bridge instantly arose. What a situation ! Her cow was 
 dear to her and valuable ; but self-preservation was an 
 impulse superior to every other consideration. Fortu- 
 nately, however, she had a dog, and in her pocket a piece 
 of bread. A glorious thought occurred of saving herself 
 and cow by the sacrifice of the cur. She took the piece 
 of bread from her pocket and threw it on the other side. 
 
48 THE DEVIL'S BRIDGE. 
 
 Her dog started over the bridge to seize it. Satan looked 
 peevishly askance, galled at the thought of being bit by 
 an old woman, hung his tail and walked off." It must 
 be said that Mr. Satan behaved very honourably in this 
 case, for he kept his word, which is more than men al- 
 ways do. It has also been conjectured that this bridge 
 has derived its name from what by some it may be called, 
 * The devil of a bridge.' 
 
 The safety of the structure, however, began to be 
 suspected, and in the year 1753, the present bridge was 
 built at the expence of the county, over the original, 
 which was left standing. When Mr. Hutton, of Birm- 
 ingham, visited this place, in the year 1757, he descended 
 the bank and entered upon the under bridge, about six 
 feet from the upper. A first descent may be made to the 
 right, after passing the bridge from the inn, to the bottom 
 of the aperture, through which the Mynach drives its 
 furious passage. The depth from the present bridge to 
 the bed of the river is 114 feet. On regaining the road, 
 the second descent lies at the distance of a few yards on 
 the other side of the bridge, to view the four concaten- 
 ated falls from the point of a rock in front. The first 
 fall takes place about 40 yards south-west of the bridge, 
 where the river is much confined by the rocks. It is car- 
 ried about six feet over the ridge, and projected into a 
 bason at the depth of 18 feet. Its next leap is 60 feet, 
 and the third is diminished to 20, when it encounters 
 rocks of prodigious size, through which it struggles to 
 the edge of the largest cataract, and descends in one un- 
 broken torrent down a precipice of 110 feet. From this 
 spot, with the assistance of a guide from the contiguous 
 inn of the Hafod Arms, may be found the Fall of the 
 Rheidiol, the approach to which is difficult, and entirely 
 impracticable during heavy rains. This is generally con- 
 sidered the finest part of the scenery. The bason into 
 which this cataract falls, is agitated like a sea, by the 
 violence of the shock. From the ordinary station it is 
 seen with considerable effect, in four separate cascades. 
 The perpendicular descent of this cataract is not less than 
 210 feet. Turn from this stupendous object, aud look 
 along the glen, against a precipice of forests, on the brink 
 of which stands the Hafod Arms, at the perpendicular 
 
THE devil's bridge. 49 
 
 height of more than 150 yards. The cascades upon the 
 two rivers are not within sight of each other ; nor is 
 Pont y Mynach seen from the falls of the Mynach. 
 
 After repassing Pont y Mynach, a fourth descent is at 
 the side of the Mynach falls, to the Robber's Cave, at the 
 j et of the lowest fall. There is nothing extraordinary in the 
 cave, but four cascades taken thus in detail, impress the 
 mind more strongly than before, with the gigantic mea- 
 surement of their proportions ; because here the unfa- 
 thomed pools between each is obvious to the eye. The 
 second fall of 60 feet is extremely grand. From a bow- 
 window of the principal room of the Hafod Arms, the 
 scene is inexpressibly fine. All the principle features of 
 the junction of the Kheidiol and Mynach may be seen at 
 one view, and the cataracts are in front. 
 
 Between two meeting hills it bursts away, 
 Where rocks and woods oe'rhang the turbid 
 
 stream, 
 There gathering force, rapid and deep, 
 It boils, and wheels, and foams, and thunders 
 
 through. 
 
 To the above is subjoined, 
 
 Mr. Warner's Description. 
 
 '* Immediately below us (says he) lay the truly aston- 
 ishing and tremendous scenery of the neighbourhood of 
 the Devil's Bridge. A profound chasm, stretching nearly 
 east and west for upwards of a mile, the almost perpen- 
 dicular sides of which are completely covered with trees 
 of different kinds ; the elegant foliage of the mountain 
 ash, the mournful shade of the pensive birch, and the 
 broad arms of the majestic oak. Through the bottom of 
 this abyss, the river Mynach pours its roaring tide, hidden 
 from the eye by the deep shade of woods, but bursting 
 upon the ear in the awful * sound of many waters :' in 
 the thunder of numerous cataracts, leaping from ledge to 
 ledge, and lashing the hollows of excavated rocks, which 
 reverberate and multiply the roar. Immediately above 
 this rich but awful scene, rise the neighbouring hills of 
 Cardiganshire, — bleak, barren, and dark, assuming the 
 
50 THE devil's bridge. 
 
 most fantastic shapes, and thrown about in the wildest 
 confusion. The horizon is bounded by the lofty summits 
 of the more important mountains of Montgomeryshire 
 and Merioneth, amongst which the broad, huge head of 
 Pumlummon exalts itself to the skies. We descended 
 the hill, and proceeded to the Hafod Arms, a neat and 
 comfortable house, built by Mr. Johnes, one amongst 
 other instances of his public spirit, as it was erected for 
 the accommodation of those who visit the wonders of 
 this wonderful country. We were for some time in pain- 
 ful suspense whether or not we could procure beds for 
 the night, as the house was full, and the apartments all 
 occupied. At length, however, we were made easy by 
 the information that a neighbouring gentleman would ac- 
 commodate us at his villa, which stands about half a 
 mile from the inn. 
 
 " Having ordered refreshments for our friendly con- 
 ductor, and surprised him by a small gratuity, my com- 
 panion and I proceeded to explore die horrors of the 
 Devil's Bridge by ourselves, the guide, who is the mas- 
 ter of the house, being absent from home. Our first 
 observations were made from the bridge. This consists 
 of a single arch, nine and twenty feet in the span, thrown 
 over the original one, which still remains. The chasm 
 that yawns under these arches is so overhung by wood, 
 that the eye with difficulty catches even a partial view of 
 the gloomy abyss below. This circumstance, however, 
 heightens the impressions of terror, which such a scene 
 is calculated to inspire. Fancy, free and fond of paint- 
 ing for herself, pourtrays with her magic pencil to the 
 mind, wonders that exceed reality ; horrors which have 
 no ' local habitation, ' and exist only in the vivid and 
 ever-shifting pictures of the imagination. 
 
 * ' In order to obtain a nearer and less uninterrupted 
 view of this tremendous fissure, and the torrent that 
 rushes through it, we proceeded over the bridge ; and, 
 turning quickly round to the right hand, descended an 
 abrupt and perilous path that conducted us to the base of 
 the rocks on the eastern side of the arch. Language is 
 but ill calculated to convey an accurate idea of the scene 
 which is here presented to the eye. The awful height 
 of the fissure, which the bridge bestrides, one hundred 
 
THE DEVIL'S BRIDGE. 51 
 
 and twenty feet above the observer, rendered doubly 
 gloomy by its narrowness, and tbe wood which over- 
 hangs it ; the stunning noise of the torrent thundering at 
 his feet, and struggling through black opposing rocks, 
 which its ceaseless impetuosity has worn into shapes 
 strange and grotesque ; fill the mind with a mingled but 
 sublime emotion of astonishment, terror, and delight. 
 
 " Having gratified our curiosity here, we clambered 
 up the perpendicular path, and going in a left hand direc- 
 tion from the bridge, about two hundred yards, passed 
 a winding descent that leads to a rocky projection, which 
 commands a view of the noble cataracts to the westward 
 of the arch. Here the Mynach, bursting at once upon 
 the eye in all its terrific majesty, is seen throwing itself 
 down ragged rocks, at least 210 feet, in four separate 
 tremendous falls. The first is a leap of nearly 20 feet ; 
 after which it is received by a fathomless bason, where 
 for a moment it seems to rest its turbid waters, in order 
 to recruit its strength, and pour with greater violence 
 down a second fall of 60 feet. Its third attempt de- 
 creases again to 20 feet, and here it falls among broken 
 rocks, which in vain present themselves as barriers to 
 its passage. This opposition gives it ten-fold rage, and 
 rushing over a projecting ledge with wonderful velocity, 
 it tumbles headlong down a descent 110 feet, and then 
 hurries through a stony channel to unite its waters with 
 the Rheidiol, which rushes from the opposite mountains 
 with nearly similar grandeur and impetuosity. We 
 should have protracted our contemplations amid this 
 awful scenery for some time, had not a sudden flash of 
 lightning, and a loud clap of thunder, issuing from a 
 black cloud that had imperceptibly gathered round our 
 heads, warned us to seek the friendly shelter of our inn." 
 
 To the above animated delineation of this scene of 
 horror, sublimity, and delight, we shall lastly add the 
 
 Description of Mr. Aikin. 
 " After a long and rather tedious walk (from Aberyst- 
 wyth) we came suddenly to a most singularly striking 
 spot. The valley of the Rheidiol contracts into a deep 
 g;len, the rocky banks of which are clothed with planta- 
 tions, and at the bottom runs a rapid torrent. This 
 
52 THE DEVIL'S bridge, 
 
 leads soon to the spot that we were in search of, which 
 is full of horrid sublimity. It is formed by a deep chasm 
 or cleft, between two rocks, which just receive light 
 enough to discover at the bottom, through the tangled 
 thickets, an impetuous torrent, which is soon lost under 
 a lofty bridge. 
 
 " By descending a hundred feet, we had a clearer 
 view of this romantic scene. Just before our heads was 
 a double bridge which has been thrown over the gulph ; 
 the inferior bridge was built by a monastery, and hence 
 called Pont ar Fynach ; this growing to decay, and being 
 thought insecure, another arch was thrown directly above, 
 and resting on the ancient one, and which now supports 
 a good road across the precipice. The water below has 
 scooped out several deep chasms in the rock, through 
 which it flows before it dives under the bridge. A 
 large beech has flung its boughs horizontally over the 
 torrent, as if to hide it from the spectator ; and the whole 
 banks of this wild spot are rough with fern, mort, and 
 native thickets, except on one side, where a perpendi- 
 cular naked slate -rock lets in the light to the inmost 
 recesses. 
 
 "Having sufficiently admired this tremendous scene, we 
 walked along the cliffs overhanging the deep glen, which 
 receives the mingled waters of the Mynach and Rheidiol, 
 whose luxuriant woods almost concealed the numerous 
 rapids and falls occasioned by the ruggedness of its rocky 
 bottom. After a troublesome and rather hazardous de- 
 scent, forcing our way through the trees, and across two 
 or three headlong little streams, we arrived at a rocky 
 bank, a few feet above the river, commanding a fine view 
 of the junction of the Rheidiol and Mynach, which seem 
 to vie with each other in the turbulence of their waters, 
 and the frequency of their cascades. Immediately above 
 the union of the two torrents, rises a perpendicular rock, 
 on the crags of which we saw several kites perched ; the 
 summit of the rock is crowned with wood, equal in lux- 
 uriance to that which clothes the lofty sides of the glen." 
 
 The extreme attractiveness of this wonderful spot, and 
 the comparitive smallness of the inn, should remind tra- 
 vellers or tourists, especially in the summer season, of 
 the necessity of reaching the bridge pretty early in the 
 
THE DEVIL'S BRIDGE. — HAFOD. 53 
 
 day, or if practicable, of apprising the landlord of the 
 Hafod Arms, a day or two before, of the time of their 
 intended arrival ; that is, if it be their intention to spend 
 the night there. Mr. Warner and his companion, as he 
 himself informs us, was indebted for a lodging to the 
 courtesy of a neighbouring gentleman ; and the compiler 
 of these pages is acquainted with a party of four or five, 
 who, on their arrival at the inn, found all the beds in the 
 house engaged for the night. The utmost accommodation 
 that could be afforded, was the privilege of sitting by 
 the fire until morning. It was probably some such disap- 
 pointment as this that gave rise to the following colloquy : 
 
 This is the Devil's Bridge, exclaimed the guide ; 
 That is the Devil's house, the trav'ller cried. 
 
 The above precaution is the more necessary, because 
 there is no other house of entertainment within many 
 miles of the Hafod Arms. 
 
 Few persons, whether from North or South Wales, 
 who visit the falls of Pont y Mynach, but will be wishful 
 to behold the celebrated seat of the late Mr. Johnes, at 
 
 Hafod, 
 About four miles distant, which will afford an exhilerat- 
 ing contrast to the sombre scenery he has lately surveyed, 
 and give him a zest for the softer scenery of nature's 
 beauties. The following tribute to the late excellent 
 proprietor, by a traveller, is well-deserved, and exhibits 
 a fine feature in the trait of a country gentleman : — " He 
 has (says our authority) made the barren wilderness around 
 him to smile, and converted the worthless heath into 
 waving woods, luxuriant corn-fields, and pastures. From 
 October, 1795, to April, 1801, Mr. Johnes planted more 
 than 2,065,000 trees; besides a great number of acres 
 that he sowed with acorns. Since this period the plan- 
 tations have been extended on the same scale with equal 
 spirit ; from one to two hundred thousand trees being 
 planted every year." 
 
 The mansion is a very elegant piece of architecture, 
 built of Portland stone, and the plan entirely novel, being 
 a mixture of the Moorish and Gothic, with turrets, and 
 
54 
 
 painted windows. The whole of it, indeed, does great 
 credit to the architect, Mr. Baldwyn, of Bath. It is 
 situated near the banks of the river Ystwyth, and beau- 
 tifully environed by lofty hills, clothed with oak. The 
 interior of the house corresponds in elegance with the 
 exterior.* 
 
 But to give the reader a correct idea of the enchanting 
 beauties of the place, we must take leave to borrow the 
 
 description from the elegant pen of Mr. Cumberland 
 
 " Hafod is a place in itself so pre-eminently beautiful, 
 that it highly merits a particular description. It stands 
 surrounded with so many noble scenes, diversified with 
 elegance as well as with grandeur ; the country on the 
 approach to it is so very wild and uncommon, and the 
 place itself is now so embellished by art, that it will be 
 difficult, I believe, to point out a spot that can be put in 
 competition with it, considered either as the object of the 
 painter's eye, the poet's mind, or as a desirable residence 
 for those who, admirers of the beautiful wildness of na- 
 ture, love also to inhale the pure air of aspiring mountains, 
 and enjoy that santo pace, as the Italians expressively 
 term it, which arises from solitudes made social by a 
 family circle. — From the portico it commands a woody, 
 narrow, winding vale ; the undulating form of whose as- 
 cending shaggy sides, are richly clothed with various 
 foliage, broken with silver water-falls, and crowned with 
 climbing sheep-walks, reaching to the clouds. Neither 
 are the luxuries of life absent ; for on the margin of the 
 Ystwyth, where it flows broadest through this delicious 
 vale, we see hot-houses and a conservatory ; beneath the 
 rocks, a bath ; amid the recesses of the woods, a flower 
 garden ; and within the building, whose decorations, 
 though rich, are pure and simple, we find a mass of rare 
 and valuable literature, whose pages here seem doubly 
 precious, where meditation finds scope to range unmo- 
 lested. 
 
 * ' In a word, so many are the delights afforded by the 
 
 * This description has reference to the present mansion, 
 built on the same site as the former one, and nearly in the 
 same style, which was consumed by fire during the absence 
 of the owner, on the 13th March, 1807. 
 
HAFOD. 55 
 
 scenery of this place and its vicinity, to a mind imbued 
 with any taste, that the impression on mine was increased, 
 after an interval of ten years from the first visit, employed 
 chiefly in travelling among the Alps, the Apennines, the 
 Sabine hills, and the Tyrolese ; along the shores of the 
 Adriatic, over the Glaciers of Switzerland, and up the 
 Rhine ; where, though in search of beauty, I never, I 
 feel, saw any thing so fine — never so many pictures con- 
 centrated in one spot ; so that, warmed by the renewal of 
 my acquaintance with them, I am irresistibly urged to 
 attempt a description of the hitherto almost virgin haunts 
 of these obscure mountains. 
 
 " Wales, and its borders, both North and South, 
 abound, at intervals, with fine things : Piercefield has 
 grounds of great magnificence, and wonderful picturesque 
 beauty ; Downton Castle has a deliciously Avoody vale, 
 most tastefully managed ; Llangollen is brilliant ; the 
 banks of the Conway savagely grand ; Barmouth roman- 
 tically rural ; the great Pystyll-y-Iihaiadr is horribly wild ; 
 Rhaiadr-y-Wennol gay, and gloriously irregular — each of 
 which merits a studied description. But at Hafod and its 
 neighbourhood, I find the effects of all in one circle ; 
 united with this peculiarity, the deep dingles, and mighty 
 woody slopes, which, from a different source, conduct 
 the Rheidiol's never-failing waters from Pumlummon, and 
 the Mynach, are of an unique character, as mountainous 
 forests, accompanying gigantic size with graceful forms ; 
 and taken altogether, I see * the sweetest interchange of 
 hill and valley, rivers, woods and plains, and falls, with 
 forests crowned, rocks, dens, and caves,' insomuch that 
 it requires little enthusiasm there to feel forcibly with 
 Milton—, 
 
 'All things that be send up from earth's great altar 
 Silent praise.' 
 
 " There are four fine walks from the house, chiefly 
 through ways artificially made by the proprietor ; all dry, 
 kept clean, and composed of materials found on the spot; 
 which is chiefly a course stone, of a greyish cast, friable 
 in many places, and like slate, but oftener consisting of 
 immense masses that cost the miner, in making some 
 
56 
 
 parts of these walls, excessive labour ; for there are places 
 where it was necessary to perforate the rock many yards, 
 in order to pass a promontory that, jutting across the 
 way, denied further access ; and to go round which you 
 must have taken a great tour, and made a fatiguing de- 
 scent. As it is, the walks are so conducted, that few are 
 steep ; the transitions easy, the returns commodious, and 
 the branches distinct. Neither are they too many, for 
 much is left for future projectors ; and if a man be stout 
 enough to range the underwoods, and fastidious enough 
 to reject all trodden paths, he may, almost every where, 
 stroll from the studied line, till he be glad to regain the 
 friendly conduct of the well-known way. Yet one must 
 be nice, not to be content at first to visit the best points 
 of view by the general routine ; for all that is here done 
 has been to remove obstructions, reduce the materials, 
 and conceal the art ; and we are no where presented with 
 attempts to force the untamed streams, or indeed to in- 
 vent any thing, where nature, the great mistress, has 
 left all art behind." 
 
 To this lively delineation, we shall only add one sen- 
 tence of the Rev. Mr. Warner, who after visiting this 
 spot, remarks : — " The whole together forms a scene so 
 striking, that while wandering through its ever-changing 
 beauties, we felt no inclination to tax Mr. Cumberland 
 with enthusiasm when he declared that in ten years tra- 
 velling through the Alps, the Apennines, the Sabine 
 Hills, and the Tyrolese ; the shores of the Adriatic ; the 
 Glaciers of Switzerland ; and the banks of the Rhine ; 
 he never saw any thing so fine, never so many pictures 
 concentrated in one spot." 
 
 The splendid library at Hafod was adorned with a most 
 valuable collection of books and manuscripts, which Mr. 
 Johnes had, at an immense expense, brought together, 
 many of which were unique and of the highest historical 
 importance, including those of Sir John Sebright's col- 
 lection, in the Welsh language, together with some 
 splendid illuminated manuscripts of Froissart. These, 
 with several thousand volumes, comprising a complete 
 Don Quixote's library, with other works of equal rarity, 
 which cannot be replaced, were unfortunately consumed 
 by the fire which destroyed the mansion. The origin of 
 
HAFOD AMLWCH. 57 
 
 this calamity has never been satisfactorily ascertained, 
 neither is it possible to estimate, with any approach to 
 accuracy, the extent of the loss : it has been stated at 
 £70,000. However, Mr. Johnes determined to restore 
 his mansion in the best manner he could, and another 
 collection of books was soon made, founded by the Pesaro 
 library, which Mr. Johnes had purchased in Italy, and 
 was on its way to Hafod at the time when the above-men- 
 tioned fire occurred. 
 
 To improve and enhance his noble mansion, this dis- 
 tinguished gentleman lived afterwards about nine years, 
 when he died at Exeter, and his mortal remains were 
 conveyed for interment in the family vault at the New 
 Church, built by himself within the precincts of the Hafod 
 grounds, and formerly considered as a chapel of ease, 
 belonging to the parish church of Llanvihangel-y-Creu- 
 ddyn, but was since formed into a parish of itself. His 
 widow survived until October, 1833, when she also died 
 at Exeter, and her body being conveyed here, was de- 
 posited by that of her respeeted husband and their only 
 beloved, and highly accomplished daughter, who died on 
 the 24th of July, 1811, in the 27th year of her age. 
 The family becoming extinct upon the death of the widow, 
 the vault, after her interment, was completely arched 
 over. 
 
 The whole of the magnificent estate of Hafod, was 
 put up to auction by Mr. Robins, in the spring of 1831, 
 and has since become the property of the Duke of New- 
 castle, together with the timber, the splendid collection 
 of books and furniture, and the large cellar of choice 
 wines, for which that nobleman is said to have paid about 
 £62,000. 
 
 AMLWCH, 
 
 (ANGLESEY.) 
 
 Beaumaris 23 Llanerch-y-medd ... 6 
 
 Holyhead 20 Menai Bridge 24| 
 
 This is a market town on the coast, chiefly supported 
 by the copper mines, with which the surrounding district 
 abounds. About the year 1766, Amlwch had not more 
 
58 
 
 than half-a-dozen houses in the whole parish, but now 
 contains a population of 6285. It has a capacious har- 
 bour, cut out of the solid rock or slate, executed at the 
 expense of the mining companies, capable of admitting 
 thirty vessels of 200 tons burthen, where originally there 
 was only a cleft or opening, too small to receive a single 
 vessel. 
 
 In conjunction with Beaumaris, Holyhead, and Llan- 
 gefni, this town returns one member to parliament. The 
 church, consecrated in 1801, is an elegant building, 
 erected by the Parys mine company, at the expense of 
 £4000. ^ 
 
 The immense treasures contained in the Parys moun- 
 tain, which lies in the immediate vicinity of Amlwch, 
 and to which the town owes its prosperity, was unknown 
 and lay neglected until about the year 1765, when one 
 Frazer, a Scotch miner, came in search of ores, and 
 gave encouragement to other adventurers. Though he 
 discovered copper ore by sinking shafts in the mountain, 
 he was discouraged from proceeding by the influx of water. 
 Sir N. Bailey, grandfather of the Marquis of Anglesey, 
 who had leased the lead mines at Penrhyn-du, in Caer- 
 narvonshire, to the Macclesfield company, bound them 
 to make a spirited effort to work the Parys mine. This 
 they did, but with so little success, that after some time, 
 they sent positive orders to the agent to discontinue his 
 operations, and discharge the miners. The agent, 
 however, fortunately disobeyed the injunction ; and as 
 a last attempt, collected all his mining force to one spot, 
 where he sunk, and within seven feet of the surface, 
 discovered a body of ore, which was worked with great 
 success for many years. This happened on the 2nd of 
 March, 1768, whence St. Chad has ever since been a 
 venerated patron of the Anglesey miners. 
 
 In the Parys mountain are two mines ; of these, that 
 upon the eastern side is called the Mona Mine, the entire 
 property of the Marquis of Anglesey. The Parys Mine 
 is the joint property of the Marquis of Anglesey and 
 Lord Dinorben. The stranger, in order to see the mines 
 to advantage, should first furnish himself with a guide, 
 to avoid danger, and accompany or follow the steps of 
 Mr. Bingley, who thus describes his efforts to gratify his 
 
59 
 
 laudable curiosity : — " Having ascended to the top, I 
 found myself standing on the verge of a vast and tremend- 
 ous chasm. I stept on one of the stages suspended over 
 the edge of the steep, and the prospect was dreadful. 
 The number of caverns at different heights along the 
 sides ; the broken and irregular masses of rock, which 
 every where presented themselves ; the multitudes of 
 men at work in different parts, and apparently in the most 
 perilous situations ; the motions of the whimsies, and 
 the raising and lowering of the buckets, to draw out the 
 ore and rubbish ; the noise of picking the ore from the 
 rock, and of hammering the wadding, when it was about 
 to be blasted ; with, at intervals, the roar of the blasts 
 in distant parts of the mine, altogether excited the most 
 sublime ideas, intermixed, however, with sensations of 
 terror. 
 
 * * I left this situation, and followed the road that leads 
 into the mine ; and the moment I entered, my astonish- 
 ment was again excited. The shagged arches, and over- 
 hanging rocks, which seemed to threaten annihilation to 
 any one daring enough to approach them, fixed me almost 
 motionless to the spot. The roofs of the work, having 
 in many places fallen in, have left some of the rudest 
 scenes that the imagination ca,n paint ; these, with the 
 sulphureous fumes from the kilns in which the ore is 
 roasted, gave it to me a perfect counterpart to Virgil's 
 entrance into Tartarus. To look up from hence, and 
 observe the people on the stages, a hundred and fifty feet 
 above one's head ; to see the immense number of ropes 
 and buckets, most of them in motion ; and to reflect, 
 that a single stone, casually thrown from above, or falling 
 from a bucket, might in a moment destroy a fellow- 
 creature, a man must have a strong mind, not to feel 
 impressed with most unpleasant sensations." 
 
 The mines are still prolific in their production of cop- 
 per ore, and afford a great revenue to their proprietors. 
 There are also alum works and a green vitriol manufactory 
 in the neigbourhood of these mines. The principal inn 
 at Amlwch, is Ty Mawr. 
 
 Just as this sheet was being put to press, we saw an 
 announcement that there has lately been discovered on 
 the property of Lord Dinorben, in the parish of Llan- 
 
60 AMLWCH BALA. 
 
 wenllwyfo, Anglesey, and in the immediate neighbour- 
 hood of the Parys and Mona mines, a very rich vein of 
 copper. This is said to be almost in a pure state ; and 
 much purer than even the copper used in the coinage of 
 1799 ; consequently a question will arise for the consi- 
 deration of geologists and others who feel pleasure in 
 investigating these matters, whether the secondary stra- 
 tum in which it is found, must not at some remote period 
 have been acted upon by great and powerful heat, so 
 as to dislodge the ore from the stone, and run it in a state 
 of fusion into the form in which it is now found. This 
 discovery is very seasonable, as the Parys and Mona 
 mines, which have so long been a source of immense 
 wealth to their proprietors, and of profitable employment 
 to many hundreds of poor families, were become nearly 
 exhausted ; at least so far as they have been explored. 
 We trust, however, that this discovery will not only be 
 of advantage to the proprietors, but also to the labouring 
 population. 
 
 BALA, 
 
 (MERIONETHSHIRE.) 
 
 Corwen 12 Ffestiniog.... 18 
 
 DinasMowddwy 18 London 207 
 
 Dolgellau 18 Maen Twrog 20 
 
 Bala, or, The Outlet of the Lake, a small neat town, 
 consisting of one long street, with two or three others 
 crossing at right angles, and a population of about 2500. 
 There are two good inns here, the White Lion and the 
 Bull's Head, the former being an excellent posting house. 
 This town is noted for its vast trade in woollen stockings, 
 woollen comfortables, and Welsh wigs. Mr. Pennant 
 remarks, that in his time, on a Saturday, their market- 
 day, from two to five hundred pounds worth of these 
 goods were disposed of ; but this staple appears to have 
 greatly decreased since that period. Still, however, knit- 
 ting is here an almost universal employment ; and whether 
 you walk in the town, or the country around, you will 
 scarcely ever meet a female unemployed, even while they 
 carry water, or other burdens upon their heads. 
 
BALA — BALA LAKE. 61 
 
 Near the south-east end of the town, is a high artificial 
 mount, called * Tommen y Bala*, supposed to be of Roman 
 construction : in the summer time it is usually covered, 
 in a picturesque manner, with knitters of all ages. From 
 the summit there is a fine view of Llyn Tegid, and the 
 adjacent mountains. The Assizes and Quarter Sessions 
 for the county are held here. The town-hall is a plain 
 building, standing in the principal street. A chapel of 
 ease was erected in 1811, by subscription; it is a plain 
 structure, with a low tower, surmounted by a spire. The 
 parish church is situate at Llanycil, about a mile from the 
 town : the service is performed here in the morning, and 
 at Bala in the afternoon ; the morning service is in English 
 only on the first Sunday in each month. 
 
 Bala Lake, 
 Llyn Tegid, or Pimblemere, -for this pool has these vari- 
 ous names, is within a quarter of a mile south of the 
 town, and is a fine expanse of water, the largest indeed 
 of any in the Principality, near four miles long and twelve 
 hundred yards broad in the widest part ; the deepest part 
 is opposite Bryn Goleu, where it is forty-six yards deep, 
 with three yards of mud ; the shores gravelly ; the boun- 
 daries are easy slopes, well cultivated, and varied with 
 woods. The overflowings of this pool are at times very 
 dreadful. These, indeed, very seldom take place, ex- 
 cept when the winds, rushing from the hollows of the 
 mountains, at the upper end, drive the waters suddenly 
 along. In stormy weather, great part of the vale of 
 Edeyrnion will sometimes be overflowed. By the united 
 force of the winds and mountain torrents, the water to- 
 wards the bottom of the pool, has been known to rise 
 six or eight feet in perpendicular height. On the con- 
 trary, in calm and settled weather, it is always remark- 
 ably smooth. There have been some instances, in severe 
 winters, of its being entirely frozen over. 
 
 The Dee, which rises about ten miles distance, on the 
 right of the Dolgellau road, falls into the lake at its head, 
 where it is joined by the Twrch and Lliw. The moun- 
 tains here are on a very grand scale, rivalling Snowdon 
 in height ; among which Arran Fowddwy is particularly 
 distinguished. Near its summit, beneath a tremendous 
 
62 BALA LAKE. 
 
 crag on the east side, the angler will find a lake of con- 
 siderable size, containing many fish, though not of good 
 quality. On the north-west of the lake rises Arrenig 
 Vawr, nearly equal to Arran in height ; on this mountain 
 is a lake containing trout of a large size, which never 
 rise to the artificial fly. Half-way up Arrenig Vach 
 (little) lies a lake, which if ruffled by a breeze, (though 
 from its sheltered situation this is not common) will afford 
 excellent sport. 
 
 Bala lake abounds in pike of great weight, the trout 
 are consequently diminished; nevertheless, a first-rate 
 angler with a favourable day, may kill a fair quantity of 
 as good fish as the Principality affords ; — perch, roach, 
 and abundance of eels, inhabit the lake, and shoals of 
 that alpine fish, the gwyniaid (so called from the white- 
 ness of their scales) which spawn in December, are taken 
 in great numbers in spring and summer. Sir W. W. 
 Wynn claims the whole fishing of this noble lake : the 
 worthy Baronet has a handsome villa, Glan Llyn, plea- 
 santly situated on the margin of the lake, about two miles 
 from Bala, where suitable accommodation is afforded to 
 anglers. 
 
 The approach to Bala along the margin of this celebra- 
 ted lake, by the Rev. Mr. Warner and his companion, 
 contains a fine description of a moon-light scene, which 
 is worthy of transcribing. '* As the evening closed (says 
 the tourist) we wound down the hills of Bwlch-y-Pawl 
 and Rhyd-y-bont towards Bala, the moon rising behind 
 us in full -orbed majesty, and replacing the gaudy tints of 
 day by her own mild and yellow light. Before we reached 
 the lake of Bala, night had fallen, and displayed a scene 
 of glory that awakened every pleasing emotion of the 
 soul. To our left hand lay the lake of Bala, (along the 
 margin of which we walked) stretching four miles in 
 length, and almost a mile in breadth ; its surface calm 
 and unruffled, reflected as from a mirror, the placid 
 beams of the moon. To the right all was wrapt in dark- 
 ness, by the deep woods which rooted themselves down 
 from the hill quite to the road. The mountains swelling 
 gradually from the lake, bounded the prospect all around 
 their gloomy recesses, which were in the shadow, finely 
 contrasted by the mantle of light that covered their ex- 
 alted summits. 
 
BALA LAKE THE RIVER DEE. 63 
 
 " Amid a scene like this, it was impossible to remain 
 unaffected. Inspiration breathed around, and every ob- 
 ject awakened to enthusiasm. Separating, therefore, 
 from each other, we indulged, in solitude and silence, 
 those emotions which were most congenial to each of us. 
 I shall not tell you to what speculations the witchery of 
 the picture led me ; they were such, however, as occa- 
 sioned a sentiment of regret when we arrived at Bala, 
 though the Bull inn, in addition to admirable accommo- 
 dations, afforded us a dish of gwyniaids, and a leg of 
 mountain mutton.' ' 
 
 The River Dee. 
 Its name is thought to have been derived from the 
 Welsh word Dwy, which signifies something divine. 
 Some centuries ago the Dee was held in superstitious ve- 
 neration by the inhabitants of the country, from what 
 were then believed the miraculous overflowing of its banks 
 at times when there had been no preceding heavy rains ; 
 and from its being believed to have foretold some remark- 
 able events by changing its channel. History informs us, 
 that when the Britons, drawn up in battle array on its 
 banks, had been prepared to engage with their Saxon 
 foes, it was their custom first to kiss the earth, and then 
 for every soldier to drink a small quantity of the water. 
 The name is certainly not derived, as many have supposed, 
 from du, black ; for, except when tinged by the torrents 
 from the mountain morasses, its waters are perfectly bright 
 and transparent. In Spenser's description of Caer Gai, 
 the dwelling of old Timon, the foster-father of Arthur, 
 the colour of the Dee is considered very different from 
 black : — 
 
 Lowe in a valley green, 
 
 Under the foot of Rawran mossie o'er, 
 
 From whence the River Dee, as silver dene, 
 His tumbling billows roll with gentle roar. 
 
 That lover of the marvellous, Gilraldus Cambrensis, 
 informs us very gravely, that the river Dee runs through 
 Bala lake, and is discharged at the bridge near the town, 
 without their waters becoming mixed. He, doubtless, 
 
64 THE RIVER DEE BANGOR. 
 
 means to say, that the river might be traced by its ap- 
 pearance from one end of the lake to the other. Giraldus 
 believed every thing the inhabitants chose to impose upon 
 him. 
 
 The Dee descending from Bala lake, passes under a 
 small bridge, at the opposite end of which it enters, and 
 from which the channel of the river is formed. It then 
 winds along the beautiful vale of Corwen, about four 
 miles below which it washes the eastern side of Denbigh- 
 shire, and passing the bridge at Llangollen, it very soon 
 forms the boundary division between England and Wales. 
 Its chief tributaries are the Alwen, which has its rise in 
 one of the lakes in the western part of the county ; the 
 Ceiriog, which descends from the slate mountains near 
 Chirk ; the Cly weddog, which it receives below Bangor ; 
 and the Alyn, which rises in the mountains about Llan- 
 degla, and flows northward towards Flintshire. 
 
 Close to the town, on the Corwen road, is Rhiwlas, 
 the seat of R. W. Price, Esq. : the house is situated on 
 an eminence, in the midst of extensive grounds, and 
 forms an interesting object, being profusely decorated 
 with an evergreen, which likewise adorns the lodge gates. 
 A considerable stream, which runs through the grounds, 
 adds much to the general effect. 
 
 BANGOR, 
 
 (CAERNARVONSHIRE.) 
 
 Caernarvon 9 London, by Chester.. 251 
 
 Capel Curig 14± by Shrewsbury237 
 
 Conway 14J Plas Newydd 5 
 
 Holyhead '. 24 Penmaen Mawr 8^ 
 
 Bangor, (from Ban cor, the high or beautiful choir) 
 is a small but neatly built town, and the most ancient see 
 in the Principality ; its present population, 4731. It is 
 much improved within the last few years, especially since 
 the erection of the Menai Bridge, which has attracted 
 numerous visitors anxious to see one of the finest works 
 of human skill; though still inconsiderable in comparison 
 to what it was in ancient times, when it was denominated 
 
65 
 
 Bangor Vawr, or the Great Bangor, probably to distin- 
 guish it from Bangor Iscoed, in Flintshire. The houses 
 here, a few years ago, were low and mean, except those 
 inhabited by persons of higher rank, and the members of 
 the cathedral, but will now bear a comparison with most 
 of the Welsh towns. The town is delightfully situated 
 between two high ridges of slate rock, at the mouth of 
 the Menai Strait, of the opposite shore of which it com- 
 mands a fine view. 
 
 No town in the Principality can compete with Bangor, 
 and its environs, with respect to the almost inexhaustible 
 diversity of walks, rides, and sea excursions ; and, in 
 addition to these highly interesting objects to visitors in 
 general, several new roads and path-ways have recently 
 been completed, and generously thrown open to the public, 
 by the spirited proprietors of Pen'r-allt estate, who have 
 disposed of that valuable property to various persons, 
 whose object in purchasing, is, to erect ornamental seats, 
 marine residences, with land attached to each, lodging 
 houses, and public baths. 
 
 Garth Point, the eastern extremity of Pen'r-allt pro- 
 perty, a short distance from the city, where a ferry crosses 
 to the Anglesey shore, stands unrivalled for the sublimity, 
 picturesque beauty, and variety of its surrounding objects, 
 consisting of an undefinable extent of sea- view, moun- 
 tains, lowlands, and plantations. To the left, on the 
 Anglesey coast, are seen, an extensive sloping wood, and 
 a pretty marine cottage, forming part of the domain of 
 Baron Hill, the splendid mansion of Sir R. B. W. 
 Bulkeley, Bart. M. P.; the town, castle, church, and 
 bay of Beaumaris ; and, about five miles further to the 
 north-east, Puffin, or Priestholm Island, with its tower 
 and semaphore. To the right, on the Caernarvonshire 
 coast, the promontory of Great Orme's Head (abounding 
 with rich copper ore) stands boldly forward, apparently 
 isolated, its rugged front protruding into the sea to guard 
 the entrance to the Menai Straits ; Little Orme's Head,, 
 Conway bay, Penmaen Bach, Pen-dyfFryn, the residence 
 of G. T. Smith, Esq. Penmaen Mawr, Bryn-y-neuadd, 
 the seat of John Wynne, Esq. Prince Lly welyn's Tower, 
 the Pass, Village and Church of Aber ; to the south-east 
 of which appear, in pre-eminent height and grandeur, 
 
66 BANGOR. 
 
 the cloud-capt Camedd Llywelyn, and Carnedd Dafydd, 
 in " Snowdon's Alpine range;" Penrhyn Castle, the 
 superb mansion of G. H. D. Pennant, Esq.; Port Pen- 
 rhyn, with its numerous shipping; the Penrhyn Arms 
 Inn, and pleasure grounds ; Hirael quay, and shore ; 
 forming, altogether, in one expansive view, an imaginary 
 circle of, at least, thirty miles. 
 
 At the egress of the river Cegid into the Menai, a 
 commodious harbour has been formed, now called Port 
 Penrhyn, which is capable of admitting and securing 
 vessels of three hundred tons burthen. The quay is 
 upwards of three hundred yards long, and an immense 
 tonnage of slates is shipped from it to all parts of the 
 world. A neat stone bridge over the river Cegid con- 
 nects the quay with the city The market is held on 
 
 Friday. 
 
 There are several excellent inns here, where the tra- 
 veller will find the best accommodations, as well as post 
 chaises, cars, &c. which are in frequent motion, from the 
 number of visitors with which this place abounds in the 
 summer months. The Penrhyn Arms, a short distance 
 from the town, is a princely inn, where it is said they 
 can make up a hundred beds of a night. In the town 
 also, are the Castle, Liverpool Arms, and the Albion, 
 at all of which post horses are kept. There is hardly any 
 thing that more strongly bespeaks the prosperity of a town 
 than improved public accommodations for travellers ; and 
 if this criterion be a just one, the following extract from 
 Dr. Johnson's diary, when he visited this town in 1774, 
 in company with Mr. and Mrs. Thrale, will exhibit the 
 present Bangor in a very advantageous point of light : — 
 " At evening (says he) the moon shone eminently bright, 
 and our thoughts of danger (on passing Penmaen Mawr) 
 being now past, the rest of our journey was very plea- 
 sant. At an hour somewhat late, we came to Bangor, 
 where we found a very mean inn, and had some difficulty 
 of obtaining a lodging. I lay in a room where the other 
 bed had two men." Its having become a fashionable 
 bathing-place, connected with the numerous objects of 
 curiosity with which it is environed, and the excellency 
 of the roads, usually collect a vast concourse of visitors 
 during the summer season. 
 
BANGOR. 67 
 
 Within the last twenty years, the population has been 
 quadrupled — almost all the town built, or rebuilt — all the 
 old roads altered, or widened, and new ones formed in 
 the direction of London or Holyhead. In the vicinity of 
 Bangor, innumerable objects of curiosity abound — Pen- 
 rhyn Castle, slate quarries, Ogwen Bank, Aber, Llan- 
 berris, Caernarvon, Beaumaris, Menai Bridge, Penmon 
 Monastery, Plas Newydd, Baron Hill, Ogwen Pool and 
 Pass, Llyn Idwal, Puffin Island, &c. &c. are all within 
 one day's drive. Indeed, a traveller may remain at Ban- 
 gor for a month, and have a fresh object every day. 
 
 The facilities for travelling are abundant : — In summer 
 there is a steam packet every day to and from Liverpool ; 
 and in winter, one every week. The London Mail 
 passes to and fro every day, and so does also the Chester 
 and Liverpool mail ; and beside these, there are daily 
 two coaches to London, one to Chester and Liverpool, 
 two to Caernarvon, and a mail to Pwllheli. 
 
 Two banks have been recently established at Bangor, 
 one of which is a branch of the Chester bank of Messrs. 
 Williams and Co. at the Cottage, the bottom of Waterloo- 
 street ; the other, a branch of the Northern and Central 
 Bank of England, in High-street, nearly opposite the 
 Market-place. By the Reform Act, Bangor was made a 
 contributary borough, in returning a member of parlia- 
 ment for Caernarvon; Colonel Parry is the present 
 member. 
 
 The Cathedral 
 stands on a low piece of ground near the centre of the 
 town, and externally has but a humble appearance. It 
 was founded about 525, by Daniel, son of Dinothus, 
 Abbot of Bangor-Iscoed, in Flintshire, under the auspices 
 of Maelgwn Gwynedd, King of Wales, founder of Pen- 
 mon, patron of Taliesin, and the most liberal prince of 
 his time, though much abused by Gildas, who calls him 
 Insularum Draco, because he resisted the innovations 
 which Pope Gregory wished to introduce into the British 
 church by means of Augustine the monk, and which 
 gave rise to the denunciatory ode of Taliesin — 
 
 " Gwae 'r Offeiriaid miid." 
 
68 , BANGOR. 
 
 The mother church suffered greatly at different periods 
 during the civil commotions. It was destroyed in 1071, 
 but soon afterwards rebuilt; and in 1212, when King 
 John invaded the country, and having passed Conway, 
 he halted at Aber, and sent the Brabanters in his army to 
 burn Bangor, which they effectually did, taking Robert 
 of Shrewsbury, then Bishop of that see, and carried him 
 prisoner to the English camp. He was afterwards ran- 
 somed for two hundred hawks — a good riddance of rapa- 
 cious birds ! The prelate was, however, suffered to 
 remain here, although totally incapable of performing his 
 duty, on account of his ignorance of the language of the 
 people. At his death, in accordance with his own request, 
 he was interred in the market-place at Shrewsbury. He 
 was the original compiler of the ridiculous legend of St. 
 Winifred, afterwards enlarged by Bishop Fleetwood. In 
 the year 1402, this edifice was again reduced to ruin by 
 the rage of Owen Glyndwr, (who was infuriated by his 
 wrongs and sufferings) and lay unrestored ninety years ; 
 when the choir was restored by Bishop Dean, or Deny. 
 The body and tower were built by Bishop Skeffington, 
 in 1532, which remain to the present time. 
 
 Some considerable improvements were completed in 
 the Cathedral in 1827, by the outlay of £2000 from the 
 tithes of Llanddinam, in Montgomeryshire, appropriated 
 by an act of James the Second, 1685, for the repairs, &c. 
 of Bangor Cathedral, and £2000 collected in different 
 parts of the United Kingdom, by the praise-worthy and 
 indefatigable exertions of the Rev. James Henry Cotton, 
 L. L. B. Precentor, and Senior Vicar ; the whole of 
 which (£4000) has been expended in the most beneficial 
 and tasteful manner, under his superintendence, and will 
 remain a lasting monument of his zeal and perseverance. 
 
 The Bishopric owes the chief of its revenues and im- 
 munities to Anian, Bishop of the diocese in the reign of 
 Edward I. who being in high favour with that monarch, 
 and having had the honour of christening the young Prince, 
 born at Caernarvon, afterwards Edward II. had, as a 
 compensation for the temporalities confiscated in the reign 
 of Henry III. various manors, ferries, and grants from 
 the revenues of the Principality allotted to the see. 
 
 Here was anciently a parish church, built in 975, by 
 
King Edgar, situated about 400 yards north-east of the 
 
 cathedral, and called Llanvair Edward Vrenin Bishop 
 
 Skeffington, in Henry VIII. 's time, took it down, and 
 repaired the present church with the materials. Here, 
 likewise, near the sea shore, Tudor ab Gronwy, of Pen- 
 mynydd and Tre V Castell, in Anglesey, founded a house 
 of Black Friars, and was interred there in 1311. In an 
 old monody to this individual are the following lines : — 
 
 For Tudor dead, the tears incessant flow, 
 And Bangor suffers in the general woe. 
 
 The free school was founded in 1557, by Dr. Jeffrey 
 Glynn, upon the site of this building. It has long enjoyed 
 reputation as a training seminary for Oxford, Cambridge, 
 and Trinity College, Dublin. The environs are well 
 cultivated and picturesque, and are interspersed with 
 seats, amongst which is that of the Bishop's palace. 
 
 On the summit of a steep rock, opposite Friars School, 
 are to be traced the remains of an ancient castle, supposed 
 to have been built by Hugh Lupus, Earl of Chester, in 
 the reign of Henry II. Several pieces of scoria have 
 been found on the spot, which leave no doubt that arrows 
 have been manufactured there, at some very distant period. 
 On the extreme height of the opposite hill, at the back 
 of Friars School, are the remains of a British encamp- 
 ment, on an extensive scale, of more ancient date than 
 the preceding. It appears rather extraordinary, that 
 neither of these interesting objects have ever been al- 
 luded to by former tourists ; but, nevertheless, they will 
 be found, on investigation, well worthy the notice of the 
 antiquary. It is conjectured, that the British encamp- 
 ment alluded to, communicated, to the southward, with 
 JDinas Dinorwic, near Llanddeiniolen, as that renowned 
 British station is distinctly seen from this ; and also with 
 another, to the east, called Braich y Ddinas, situate near 
 the apex of Penmaen Mawr. 
 
 Pleasant excursions may be made from Bangor to Con- 
 way, Caernarvon, Beaumaris, Amlwch, Plas Newydd, 
 Aber, Port Penrhyn, Priestholme or Puffin Island, Pen- 
 rhyn Castle, the Llandegai slate quarries, and Snowdon, 
 for a description of each of which the reader is referred 
 to the index. 
 
70 
 
 Passengers crossing at Garth Ferry, may have every 
 object in the surrounding scenery civilly and readily ex- 
 plained by the Charon of Garth, who is full of local 
 information. The man who at present plies this ferry, 
 is well known through the Isle of Anglesey and Caer- 
 narvonshire by the cognomen of Jack y Garth, and is 
 indefatigable in his vocation in picking up an honest penny. 
 By the reader's permission, I will take the liberty of in- 
 troducing a story of one of Jack's predecessors, not 
 destitute of interest, as related by Mr. Warner, when he 
 crossed this ferry in 1798. "We crossed the Menai (says 
 he) in order to visit Anglesey. Several ferries ply on 
 this trajectus; we fortunately took that of Garth Point, 
 about half a mile from Bangor, which afforded us a very 
 curious and singular character. It is worked by an old 
 woman, by name Grace Parry, but more commonly called, 
 from the place of her abode, Grds y Garth ; a short, 
 thick, squat female, who, though upwards of sixty win- 
 ters have passed over her head, is as strong as ahorse, and 
 as active as one of her own country goats. Her excel- 
 lence in rowing and managing a boat is unrivalled through 
 the coast, but cannot be wondered at, as she served an 
 early apprenticeship to the business, under her father 
 and mother, who lived at the same little cottage which 
 she inhabits, and worked the same passage for the best 
 part of the past century. The prowess of her mother, 
 and the skill of her father, are still the favourite themes 
 of her discourse. She remembers with particular plea- 
 sure his ability in swimming, (for he seems to have been 
 nearly an amphibious animal) and, as a proof of it, re- 
 lates a circumstance that frequently occurred, even when 
 he had passed his grand climaterick. 
 
 " The ferry was generally plied by the joint exertions 
 of this couple, who, upon the whole, were tolerably 
 loving ; but as storms will happen in the fairest days, so 
 their conjugal serenity was occasionally disturbed ; and 
 sometimes an altercation would take place when they 
 were ferrying their passengers across the Menai. In these 
 cases, the wife, who was the better man of the two, so 
 completely worsted her spouse in obloquy and abuse, that, 
 unable to bear it, he would suddenly cast off his jacket, 
 leap into the Menai, and swim towards his cottage, bid- 
 
BANGOR — SUSPENSION BRIDGE. 71 
 
 ding his dame, with a string of Welsh execrations, take 
 care of the passengers herself. Grace, indeed, seems to 
 have imbibed much of her mother's noble spirit ; and 
 looks down with some contempt on our sex, whom she 
 considers as inferior animals, and regards only as neces- 
 sary evils. She has iong been married, 'tis true, but 
 seldom allows her husband to assist in the important avo- 
 cations of rowing and fishing ; because, as she frankly 
 told us, he could not do it half so well as herself. 
 
 ' * Nothing intimidates this Cambrian heroine ; she stands 
 in fear of no human being, and is equally regardless of 
 the rage of the elements. Last winter her boat drifted 
 away in the night, and Grace for some days thought it 
 had been stove to pieces. However, as it was her free- 
 hold estate, she made diligent inquiry after it, and at last 
 discovered that it had been taken up and carried to Liver- 
 pool. Engaging a stout fellow in the neighbourhood to 
 accompany her, she instantly set off for that port on foot, 
 though nearly sixty miles distant, and having recovered 
 her property, embarked on board the skiff (although not 
 more than twelve or thirteen feet on the keel) and, with 
 the assistance of her companion, actually rowed it back 
 to Garth Point, through heavy seas and squally weather, 
 as perilous a voyage as ever was performed. As we found 
 Grace's prejudices against the English rather violent, and 
 not knowing to what length they might carry her, parti- 
 cularly when she was under the influence of cwrio da, we 
 thought it necessary for the safety of future Saxon tra- 
 vellers, to reward her labours with double the sum she 
 demanded. This unexpected generosity so gratified the 
 old woman, that she swore most bitterly we were the 
 greatest gentlemen she ever met with, and she declared 
 she would always like the English for our sake, and in- 
 sisted on shaking hands with us individually at parting. 
 We indulged her wish, but (whether she meant it as a 
 token of her kindness, or a proof of her strength, I 
 know not) gave us each such a serious gripe, as almost 
 dislocated our fingers." 
 
 Great Suspension Bridge. 
 Within about two miles of Bangor, near the spot 
 where the old ferry was, stands that huge monument of 
 'Miman art, the Menai Bridge. 
 
72 SUSPENSION BRIDGE. 
 
 See on the rock the enchanter, Telford, stand, 
 And bid an empire's wealth obey the wand ; 
 Surpris'd the Tritons, in their floating shells, 
 See modern magic by her happier spells, 
 Raise the tall pier, extend the massy chain — 
 And lead the millions o'er the subject main ; 
 Alike serenely when the tempest roars, 
 And when the placid waters greet the shores. 
 
 Llwyd. 
 
 " It has long been the disgrace of a great empire." 
 says the author of * Beaumaris Bay,' "whose means, 
 for every other purpose, has been the effect of a wish, 
 that the strait of Menai has, in a stormy day, put a stop 
 to its intercourse — and the more so, as Nature, by way 
 of atonement for the inconvenience created by the con- 
 vulsion which tore the island from the continent, has left 
 every inducement for the erection of a bridge. The first 
 spot for this purpose, is evidently the Caethwy (narrow 
 water) Porthaethwy — and latterly, Bangor Ferry, as 
 most centrical, and best sheltered from the prevailing 
 west winds, by the projecting banks of Tre 'r borth ; 
 both shores presenting the most solid and inviting abut- 
 ments, with the intermediate auxiliary of the islet, 
 Ynys-y Moch. In addition to these advantages, it is, as 
 if designedly, on the very line leading from the pass of 
 Nant-frangcon to Holyhead." 
 
 The erection of this bridge was for several years in 
 contemplation before it was finally determined upon. In 
 1810 and 1811, several plans were submitted to a com- 
 mittee of the house of commons, and particularly one in 
 the latter year, by Mr. Telford, of cast iron, the expense 
 of which was estimated at £127,000; but the difficulty 
 of fixing a proper centering, owing to the rocky bottom 
 of the channel, and the depth and rapidity of the tide-way, 
 caused this project to be abandoned. In 1818, a new 
 plan was presented by the same engineer, for a bridge on 
 the suspension principle. In developing this plan, Mr. 
 Telford remarks, " The iron hanging bridge over the 
 Menai to consist of one opening of 560 feet between the 
 points of suspension ; in addition to which there are to 
 be seven arches, four on the coast of Anglesey, and 
 
SUSPENSION BRIDGE. 73 
 
 three on that of Caernarvonshire, each 60 feet in the 
 span, making the total length of the bridge 910 feet ; 
 the height above the level of high water line to be 100 
 feet. The road-way will embrace two carriage ways, 
 each twelve feet in breadth, with a foot-path of four feet 
 between them. The whole is to be suspended from four 
 lines of strong iron cables, by perpendicular iron rods 
 placed five feet apart, and these rods will support the 
 road- way framing. The suspending power is calculated 
 at 2016 tons, and the weight to be suspended, exclusive 
 of the cables, is 343 tons, leaving a disposable power 
 of 1674 tons. 
 
 " The four sides of the road- ways will be made of 
 framed iron work, firmly bound together for seven feet 
 in height, and there will be a similar work for five feet 
 in depth below the cables. The weight of the whole 
 bridge between the points of suspension will be 489 tons. 
 The abutments will consist of the masonry, comprising 
 the extreme stone-work, the two piers, and the seven 
 arches before -mentioned : each of the two piers will be 
 60 feet by 40^ wide at high water mark, having a foun- 
 dation of rock. Upon the summit of the two main 
 piers, will be erected a frame of cast-iron work, of a 
 pyramidal form, for the purpose of raising the cables 
 from which the bridge is to be suspended." The proba- 
 ble cost of erecting this structure Mr. Telford estimated 
 at £60,000, or, allowing for any unforeseen charges, at 
 most £70,000, about one fourth of the calculated expence 
 of the cast-iron bridge on the old plan. 
 
 The following particulars are copied from Dr. Pring's 
 Narrative of the Grand Menai Suspension Bridge, pub- 
 lished immediately on its completion. " The first stone 
 of this national bridge was laid without any ceremony on 
 the 10th August, 1820, by Mr. Provis, resident engineer. 
 On the 26th April, 1825, the first chain of this stupendous 
 work was thrown over the straits of Menai, in the 
 presence of an immense concourse of people. At half- 
 past two o'clock, it being then about half flood tide, the 
 raft prepared for the occasion, stationed on the Caernar- 
 vonshire side, near Treborth mill, which supported the 
 part of the chain intended to be drawn over, began to 
 move gradually from its moorings, towed by four boats, 
 
74 SUSPENSION BRIDGE. 
 
 with the assistance of the tide, to the centre of the river, 
 between the two grand piers. When the raft was adjust- 
 ed, and brought to its ultimate situation, it was made 
 fast to several buoys, anchored in the channel for that 
 purpose. A part of the chain, pending from the apex of 
 the suspending pier on the Caernarvonshire side down 
 nearly to high-water mark, was then made fast by a bolt 
 to the part of the chain laying on the raft ; which opera- 
 tion was completed in ten minutes. 
 
 e ' The next process was the fastening of the other 
 extremity of the chain on the raft to two blocks of im- 
 mense size and power, for the purpose of hoisting it up 
 to its intended station, the apex of the suspension pier 
 on the Anglesey side. When the blocks were made 
 secure to the chain (comprising 25 tons weight of iron) 
 two capstans, and also two preventive capstans, com- 
 menced working, each capstan being propelled by thirty- 
 two men. To preserve an equal tension in the rotatory 
 evolutions of the two principal capstans, two fifers 
 played several enlivening tunes to keep the men regular 
 in their steps ; for which purpose they had been previously 
 trained. At this critical and interesting juncture the 
 attention of every one present seemed riveted to the novel 
 spectacle ; the chain rose majestically, and the gratifying 
 sight was enthusiastically enjoyed by all present in 
 4 breathless silence !' At ten minutes before five o'clock, 
 the final bolt was fixed, which completed the whole line 
 of chain, and the happy event was hailed by the hearty 
 acclamations of the spectators. Not the least accident, 
 delay, or failure occurred in any department during the 
 whole of the operation. From the moving of the raft to 
 the uniting of the chain, only two hours and twenty -five 
 minutes transpired. Upon the completion of the chain, 
 three of the workmen passed along its upper surface, 
 which forms a curvature of 590 feet ; the versed sine of 
 the arch is 43 feet. The sixteenth chain, completing the 
 whole line of suspension, was carried over on the 9th of 
 July following. 
 
 " The general opening of the bridge took place on 
 Monday, January 30, 1826. The royal London and 
 Holyhead mail coach, carrying the London mail bag for 
 Dublin, passed over at one o'clock, a. m. and the first 
 
SUSPENSION BRIDGE. 75 
 
 carriage that passed was that of Augustus Elliott Fuller, 
 Esq. one of the commissioners, drawn by four beautiful 
 greys ; the first stage coach was the Pilot, a Bangor and 
 Caernarvon day coach ; the first London stage coach was 
 the Oxonian. These were followed by the carriage of 
 Sir David Erskine, Bart, late proprietor of the ferry, 
 drawn by four elegant greys, decorated with ribbons, and 
 by several gentlemen's carriages, landaus, gigs, cars, &c. 
 &c. and a long train of horsemen. Numerous flags were 
 flying ; and cannons, stationed on each side of the bridge, 
 were discharged at intervals during the day. 
 
 " The dimensions of the bridge are as follow : — The 
 extreme length of the chain, from the fastenings in the 
 rocks, is about 1715 feet ; the height of the road- way 
 from high-water line, is 100 feet ; each of the seven 
 small piers from high-water line to the spring of the 
 arches, is 65 feet ; the span of each arch is 52^ feet. 
 Each of the suspending piers is 53 feet above the road ; 
 the roads on the bridge consist of two carriage ways of 
 12 feet each, with a foot path of four feet in the centre ; 
 the length of the suspended part of the road from pier to 
 pier is 553 feet ; the carriage road passes through two 
 arches in the suspending piers, of the width of 9 feet by 
 15 feet in height to the spring of the arches. To coun- 
 teract the contraction and expansion of the iron from the 
 effects of the change in the atmosphere, a set of rollers 
 are placed under cast-iron saddles on the top of the 
 suspending piers where the chains rest ; the vertical rods, 
 an inch square, suspended from the chains, support the 
 sleepers for the flooring of the road- way, the rods being 
 placed 5 feet from each other. The chains, sixteen in 
 number, consist of five bars each ; length of the bar 10 
 feet, width 3 inches by 1 inch, with six connecting 
 lengths at each joint, 1 foot 4 inches by 8 inches, and 1 
 inch thick, secured by two bolts at each joint, each bolt 
 weighing about 50 poimds ; and the total number of the 
 bars in the cross-section of the chain is 80." 
 
 In whatever vivid colours the pen or pencil of genius 
 may attempt to delineate this magnificent structure, yet 
 all description is beggared by a personal view of the 
 astonishing reality. Its approach by water is thus 
 described by a recent author : — " When, on entering the 
 
76 SUSPENSION BRIDGE. 
 
 straits, the bridge is first seen suspended as it were in 
 mid air, and confining the view of the fertile and richly - 
 wooded shores, it seems more like a light ornament than 
 a massy bridge, and shews little of the strength and 
 solidity which it really possesses. But as we approached 
 it nearer, whilst it still retained its light and elegant 
 appearance, the stupendous size and immensity of the 
 work, struck us with awe ; and when we saw that a 
 brig, with every stick standing, had just passed under 
 it — that a coach going over it appeared not larger than a 
 child's toy — and that foot passengers upon it looked like 
 pigmies, the vastness of its proportions was by contrast 
 fully apparent." 
 
 Another traveller gives us the subjoined outline, while 
 surveying the attractive object on the spot: — " Having 
 landed by means of boats on the Anglesey side, we pro- 
 ceeded to the bridge, the visiting of which is a new era 
 in the lives of those who have not before had that plea- 
 sure, and is a renewed luxury to those who have seen it 
 again and again. Our party walked over the bridge 
 slowly, because there was something to be admired at 
 every step : — the effect of a passing carriage ; the vibra- 
 tion caused even by a hand applied to the suspending 
 rods ; the depth to the level of the water ; the fine view 
 of the straits in both directions ; the lofty pillar erected 
 in honour of the Marquis of Anglesey ; the diminutive 
 appearance of persons on the shore ; the excellence and 
 strength of the workmanship ; the beauty of the arches 
 over the road through the suspension piers, and the echo 
 in them ; all conspired to delight and to detain us. Many 
 of our party then went down the steep bank to the foot 
 of the bridge, from which point, certainly, the best 
 view is to be had of the whole structure, inasmuch as by 
 being in contact, as it were, with its proportions on terra 
 firma, a better idea can be formed of its real, and indeed 
 wonderful dimensions. We actually lingered about the 
 spot, careless of time, or of aught but the scene we 
 were contemplating." 
 
 From the Suspension Bridge to Beaumaris, the road is 
 exquisitely beautiful : it follows the line of the winding 
 and indented shore of the Menai ; now commanding an 
 extensive view of the noble bay, and its lofty encircling 
 
MENAI STRAITS. 77 
 
 mountains— now entering the woods of Baron Hill, scarcely 
 protected from the precipice, the foot of which is washed 
 by the waves, which are heard chaffing against the rock 
 below — again it emerges from the woods, and the whole 
 glorious panorama bursts on the sight ; the beautiful town 
 of Beaumaris lying at your feet, whilst the Ormshead, 
 Penmaen Mawr, the Nant-frangcon mountains, and the 
 more distant range of Snowdonia, with Penrhyn Castle 
 and Bangor, terminating with nature's great rival, the 
 Bridge, form a prospect, perhaps unrivalled in the world. 
 
 The Menai Straits. 
 
 These straits, which separate Anglesey from the main 
 land, although bearing the appearance of a river, is in 
 truth an arm of the sea. Its navigation is peculiarly 
 dangerous at particular times of the tide, and in stormy 
 weather. At each extremity, during the flood, it has a 
 double current, from the concussion of which, termed 
 
 Pwll Ceris, it is highly dangerous to encounter it 
 
 Within the range of the coast, a distance of about fifteen 
 miles, there are six ferries ; the first of which, to the 
 south, is Aber-Menai, nearly opposite Caernarvon, and 
 the sixth, and widest at high water, is between the village 
 of Aber and Beaumaris. 
 
 The author of the Cambrian Guide says, " There 
 appears but little doubt of Anglesey having been onc« 
 connected with the main land, as evident traces of an 
 isthmus are discernible near Porthaethwy -ferry ; where a 
 dangerous line of rocks nearly cross the channel, and 
 cause such eddies at the first flowing of the tide, that the 
 contending currents of the Menai seem here to struggle 
 for superiority. This isthmus once destroyed, and a 
 channel formed, it has been the work of ages, by the 
 force of spring tides and storms, gradually to deepen and 
 enlarge the opening. " In support of this hypothesis, the 
 author of Beaumaris Bay says, " In the year 61, the 
 Roman infantry, under Suetonius, crossed the Menai on 
 a bridge of boats, to Pant-yr- Ysgraffiau (the inlet of the 
 skiffs) under Porthamael, while the cavalry forded it be- 
 low Llanidan. Edward I. also crossed the strait in the 
 same manner at Moel~y~don, but suffered severely from 
 
78 BANGOR ISCOED. 
 
 an unfortunate attack, on the return of the tide ; several 
 of his leading warriors now lying in the chapel of the 
 Friary, near Beaumaris. " 
 
 BANGOR ISCOED, 
 
 (FLINTSHIRE.) 
 
 Chester 13 Overton 3 
 
 Ellesmere 8 Whitchurch 10£ 
 
 Holt 7 Wrexham 5 
 
 Bangor Iscoed stands in a detached part of the county, 
 on the banks of the Dee, over which is a good stone 
 bridge of five arches, and about three miles from Overton. 
 From a few hundred yards below the bridge, a beautiful 
 landscape is presented, including the river, bridge, and 
 tower of the church, rising above a clump of trees. This 
 place has its chief celebrity from having been the site of 
 the most ancient monastery in Britain ; founded, as the 
 old writers assert, by Lucius, the son of Coel, and first 
 Christian King of Britain, somewhat prior to the year 
 180. — Lucius formed it into an university, for the in- 
 crease of learning, and the preservation of the Christian 
 faith in this realm ; and it produced, for an age so unen- 
 lightened, many learned men. It is said by some writers, 
 to have been converted into a monastery about the year 
 530, by Cynwyl or Congelus, who was created the first 
 abbot. Others say that Pelagius the monk, a native of 
 Wales, who had studied here in his youth, after having 
 travelled through France, Italy, Egypt, Syria, and various 
 other countries, was made a Bishop, and on his return to 
 England, converted this house. 
 
 The monastery of Bangor was rich in manuscripts, and 
 universally celebrated for its valuable library ; and Speed 
 states, that from its great age, and the number of its 
 learned men, it was acknowledged to be the parent of all 
 other monasteries in the world. At the arrival of Augus- 
 tine, who was missioned about 596, from Pope Gregory I. 
 to convert the English Saxons to Christianity, this monas- 
 tery appears to have been in a very nourishing state. 
 The monks of Bangor were dissenters from the Romish 
 
BANGOR ISCOED BARMOUTH. 79 
 
 church ; and, in a conference between St. Augustine and 
 its governors, the imperious monk demanded of them 
 that they should keep the feast of Easter at the same time 
 the papists did; that they should administer baptism ac- 
 cording to the ceremonies of the church of Rome ; and 
 " preach the word of life with him and his fellows. " In 
 other things, he said, they would be allowed to retain 
 their ancient customs, insolently concluding, that M if 
 they would not accept of peace with their brethren, they 
 should receive war from their enemies. " They refused 
 obedience to his injunctions, and resolutely maintained 
 the original rites of their church. Shortly after this period 
 followed the dreadful massacre of the monks, for which 
 see the introduction. 
 
 Not long after this event, the monastery became neg- 
 lected, and went entirely to decay. William of Malms - 
 bury, who lived shortly after the Norman conquest, 
 asserts, that even in his time, there remained only some 
 relics of its ancient magnificence : there were, he says, 
 so many ruined churches, and such immense heaps of 
 rubbish, as were not elsewhere to be found. Leland says 
 of it, in the time of Henry VII. that its site was in a 
 fertile valley, on the south side of the Dee ; but that the 
 river having since changed its course, then ran through 
 the middle of the ground on which it stood. The extent 
 of its walls, he says, was equal to that of the walls round 
 a town ; and the two gates, the names of which had been 
 handed down by tradition, had been half a mile asunder. 
 Within the memory of persons then living, the bones of 
 the monks, and pieces of their clothes, had been ploughed 
 up, in the cultivation of the ground, and some Roman 
 money found. 
 
 BARMOUTH, or ABERMAW, 
 
 (MERIONETHSHIRE.) 
 
 Dolgellau 10 London 225 
 
 Harlech 10 Towyn 11 
 
 The town of Barmouth is seated near the bottom of 
 some high mountains, many of the houses being built on 
 
80 BARMOUTH. 
 
 the steep sides, one above another, in such a manner that 
 the inhabitants of one of the higher ranges has an oppor- 
 tunity of seeing down the chimnies of their next subjacent 
 
 neighbours The town stands very near to the sea, at the 
 
 mouth of the Maw, or Mawddach, and takes its name of 
 Barmouth, i. e. Abermaw, or Mawddach, from that cir- 
 cumstance. At high- water, the tide here forms a bay 
 about a mile over, but the entrance is rather hazardous, 
 on account of the sand -banks. This is the only port of 
 Merionethshire, but ships are less frequent in this port, 
 on account o& the circumstance just named. The chief 
 manufactures are flannels and woollen stockings ; and of 
 these Mr. Pennant observed sixty years ago, that forty 
 thousand pounds' worth of the former have been exported 
 in a year, and ten thousand pounds' worth of stockings. 
 
 The parish church is distant about a mile and a half 
 from the town, of which the Rev. John Jones is Rector ; 
 but in 1830, a chapel of ease was opened here for Divine 
 service, which is a neat and beautiful edifice, and in which 
 the service is principally performed in English ; this ad- 
 vantage has been obtained chiefly through the instrumen- 
 tality of the Rev. F. Ricketts, of Aberamffrach house, 
 and to whom the inhabitants are under great obligations 
 for his general benevolence and public spirit. The visit- 
 ing clergy frequently render their assistance in the church. 
 There are also chapels in the town occupied by the Wes- 
 leyans, the Calvinists, and Independents. 
 
 The town is generally well filled with fashionable 
 bathers in the summer season, for whose convenience, 
 accommodation, and amusement, the inhabitants have 
 made ample provision. There are two excellent inns : 
 the Cors-y-gedol Arms, kept by Mr. William Barnett, 
 where post-chaises, cars, &c. may be procured, as well 
 as guides to Cader Idris, and the lakes and waterfalls ; 
 and also the Commercial inn, an excellent house with 
 stabling and coach-houses. Stage coaches leave and 
 arrive every day in the week, except Sunday, from dif- 
 ferent places, including Liverpool, Shrewsbury, and 
 Caernarvon. There are several good shops ; and for the 
 accommodation of visitors, circulating libraries have been 
 established. Here, also, are two baths and a billiard- 
 room, to which is about to be added a bowling-green. — 
 
BARMOUTH. 81 
 
 The lodging houses are excellent, and cannot easily be 
 surpassed in any part of the coast. The town, and the 
 turnpike roads throughout the district, have lately been 
 greatly improved, and are still improving. The popu- 
 lation is about 2000. 
 
 " The beach," says Mr. Bingley, " is one of the. 
 most delightful walks I ever beheld. The wide river 
 Mawddach winds amongst the mountains, forming many 
 and elegant promontories. These rise to great heights 
 on each side, some clad with wood, and others exhibiting 
 their naked rocks, scantily covered with purple heath. 
 The summit of the lofty Cader Idris is seen to rise above 
 the other mountains, in the back ground." From Bar- 
 mouth a delightful excursion may be made along the banks 
 of the Maw, or in a boat up the river, for about eight 
 miles. The tourist should choose the time of high 
 water, when the whole bed of the river being filled, it 
 renders the landscapes extremely picturesque. Nothing 
 appears wanting : there is every requisite of mountain 
 and vale, wood and water, meadows and rocks, all 
 arranged in exquisite order. The beach also affords a 
 beautiful drive of six miles. From this place a project- 
 ing causeway, called Sarn-Badric, running fifteen miles 
 into the sea, which" tradition says, though her evidence 
 alone is but slight authority, once surrounded one hun- 
 dred cities. The upper part is perceptible at low water. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of Barmouth are several gentle- 
 men's mansions, namely, Aberamffrach-house, the pro- 
 perty and residence of the Rev. F. Ricketts, within a 
 quarter of a mile of the town ; Cors-y-gedol, for many 
 years the baronial seat of the Vaughans, and now the 
 property of the Hon. E. M. L. Mostyn, M. P. at pre- 
 sent occupied by Bell Lloyd, Esq. There are other 
 pretty residences in the neighbourhood, of which Bryn- 
 tirion is the most beautiful, the property of Charles 
 Henry Harford, Esq. 
 
 The Rev. Mr. Newell, in his Scenery of Wales, ob- 
 serves, that while at Cors-y-gedol Arms, at Barmouth, 
 he was introduced to a Welsh harper, whose performance 
 he did not seem much to admire. Mr. Newell then 
 adds, " It is a curious circumstance that we owe Gray's 
 Bard to a Welsh harper — blind Parry, Sir W. W. Wynn's 
 
82 BARMOUTH BEAUMARIS. 
 
 harper. In a letter from Cambridge, Gray says : — * Mr. 
 Parry has been here, and scratched out such ravishing 
 blind harmony, such tunes of a thousand years old, with 
 names enough to choke you, as have set all this learned 
 body a dancing, and inspired them with due respect for 
 my old Bard, his countryman, whenever he shall ap- 
 pear. Mr. Parry, you must know, has set my ode in 
 motion again, and has brought it at last to a conclusion." 
 The angling stations are, Arthog Chapel, three miles 
 distant, and Llyn Bodlyn, four miles from Barmouth ; 
 Llyn Irddin and Llyn Geirw, near to the town ; and 
 Llyn Raithlyn, in the neighbourhood of Traws-fynydd. 
 
 BEAUMARIS, 
 
 (ANGLESEY.) 
 
 Amlwch 17 London, by Shrews- 
 
 Bangor, by the bridge 6^ bury 243 
 
 Caernarvon 14 London, by Chester ...258 
 
 Con way, by Aber ferry 14J Mona 14 
 
 Holyhead 27 Snowdon 12 
 
 Beaumaris is one of the largest and best built towns 
 in Anglesey, where the assizes for that county are held. 
 The town and liberties are included in the parishes of 
 Llandegvan and Llanvaes : the whole occupying a dis- 
 trict nearly semi-circular in form, and presenting to the 
 Menai a bold rocky cliff of three miles, and an indented 
 beach of more than two. This place, like many others 
 on the Welsh coast, has lately become a fashionable re- 
 sort for bathing visitors of the higher grade, for which it 
 is admirably adapted, the sands being firm and the 
 water clear. In 1805, hot baths were erected here, and 
 accommodations of the first class abound. 
 
 The church, formerly called ' ' the chauntry of our 
 Lady of Beaumaris," is considered as a chapel of ease 
 to Llandegvan. It is situated on an eminence in the 
 centre of the town ; consists of a broad and two side 
 aisles, and a chancel, covered with lead, and em- 
 brasured : having a ring of six bells, a clock, and an 
 organ, all the gift of the late Lord Bulkeley. In the 
 
BEAUMARIS. 83 
 
 vestry is a beautiful monument of a knight and his lady, 
 in white alabaster, recumbent on an altar tomb. Mr. 
 Llwyd says, they represent Sir Richard Bulkeley and his 
 lady, the former was appointed Chamberlain of North 
 Wales, and was in great favour with Queen Elizabeth — 
 In the church, a white marble monument, executed by 
 Westmacott, in memory of the late Lord Bulkeley, who 
 died June 3, 1822, stands on the left side of the altar ; 
 this beautiful piece of sculpture represents Faith directing 
 the view of the dejected widow towards the bust of her 
 husband and to heaven ; and also a beautiful monument 
 of a female kneeling in an attitude of devotion, on a 
 pedestal by Ternouth, to the memory of Charlotte Mary, 
 first wife of Sir E,. B. W. Bulkeley, Bart and daughter 
 
 of Lord Dinorben There is likewise, a tablet to the 
 
 memory of David Hughes, erected in 1812, by some 
 persons who had been educated in the Free School of 
 which he was the founder. There are also several other 
 monuments and tablets, but not possessing any peculiar 
 attraction. On a plain stone near the east entrance into 
 the church, is an inscription of Meredith Davi'es, in the 
 unvarnished style of Sternhold and Hopkins : — 
 
 Who has been our parish clerk 
 
 Full one and thirty years, I say, 
 Must here, alas ! lie in the dark 
 
 Bemoan 'd for ever and for aye. 
 
 Near to the church is the free school, founded in 1603, 
 by David Hughes, Esq. who also endowed alms-houses 
 for six poor persons, to whom he granted annuities. 
 The late Lord Bulkeley added four to this number, and 
 they are situated about a mile from the town, near the 
 
 entrance of Baron Hill Park Nearly adjoining to the 
 
 castle is the shire hall, and other suitable offices, where 
 the assizes are held. The town-hall rebuilt in the 
 beginning of the present century, is a good building, 
 beneath which are the shambles, and over it the assembly 
 room. The town also possesses a good custom-house, 
 and a national school. 
 
 The Williams Bulkeley Arms Hotel, is a magnificent 
 establishment, equal to any thing of the kind in our first 
 
84 BEAUMARIS. 
 
 English towns. This Hotel has been recently erected by 
 the proprietor of Baron Hill, Sir R. W. Bulkeley, whose 
 residence in this neighbourhood is a common blessing to 
 the country. The Commercial Inn, and Liverpool Arms, 
 are also houses where the best accommodations may be 
 had. The market days are on Wednesdays and Saturdays. 
 Population, 2497. 
 
 Beaumaris enjoys the most beautiful and sublime 
 prospect in North Wales, with the distinguished peculi- 
 arity, that the eye at the same time rests on a noble 
 expanse of the ocean, and an extensive range of some of 
 the loftiest mountains in Wales. On the extreme left, 
 Puffin Island is discovered, divided from Anglesey by a 
 narrow sound ; a wide expanse of water thence leads the 
 eye towards Conway, where the great Ormshead stretches 
 its giant arm far into the bosom of the ocean : Penmaen 
 Mawr, deeper in this great bay, rises almost a perpen- 
 dicular cliff from the waters edge, contrasting its sublim- 
 ity with the sweet village of the white shining Aber, and 
 the new mansion of the Wynne's, of Bryn-y-neuadd, 
 resting among its scattered trees at its foot, while more 
 immediately in front tower the nearer heights of Carnedd 
 Dafydd, and Marchlyn Mawr, which inclose the romantic 
 valley of Nant-frangcon. 
 
 This noble range of hills forms a suitable back ground 
 to the gloomy grandeur of Penrhyn Castle — an exquisite 
 specimen of Norman architecture. This noble pile stands 
 immediately opposite on a low hill that rises from the 
 waters of the strait, which here contracting its shores 
 presents the appearance of some mighty river rolling its 
 waters to the sea. Far up this beautiful strait, the eye 
 ranges along the richly- wooded and cultivated shores that 
 skirt Baron Hill on Anglesey, and extend beyond Bangor 
 on the Caernarvon side, till this matchless prospect is 
 closed on the extreme right by that stupendous work, the 
 Menai Bridge, which rises a magnificent object among the 
 grandest features of nature. From the spacious piece of 
 ground called the Green, which, landward, is enclosed by 
 the Hotel, a splendid range of houses called Victoria Ter- 
 race, and the old Castle, this inchanting view is seen to the 
 best advantage — seaward, at full tide, it presents to the 
 eye a never-ending variety, in numbers of trading ves- 
 
BEAUMARIS CASTLE. 85 
 
 sels, yachts, and smaller pleasure boats, constantly pass- 
 ing close to the beach, whilst at low water the sands 
 afford many delightful and extensive drives. 
 
 The Castle. 
 
 This Castle was the last of the three great fortresses 
 erected by Edward I. to hold in awe his new and unwil- 
 ling subjects on both sides the Menai. For this purpose 
 he fixed upon a flat near the water side, with the view of 
 surrounding it with a fosse, for the double purpose of de- 
 fence, and bringing small craft to unload their cargoes 
 under its walls ; part of which canal, called the Llyn-y- 
 Green, was till lately remaining ; and the large iron ring, 
 to which the craft were fastened, is still in its place at 
 the great east-gate. 
 
 Within the Castle is an area or square, of 190 feet, 
 with obtuse corners ; on the right is the chapel, an ad- 
 mirable piece of masonry, and the only entire room in all 
 Edward's buildings ; its stone arched roof having saved 
 it at the general dilapidation. Opposite to the south-east 
 entrance is the great hall, 70 feet long and 23 broad, with 
 a range of five elegant windows, and forming a front (its 
 turreted angles excepted) that has rather a modern ap- 
 pearance; and though, upon the whole, a fortress of 
 prodigious magnitude, yet its low situation, and the great 
 diameter of its nearly circular towers, takes off consider- 
 ably from its height and appearance. This castle is re- 
 puted to be the scene of the massacre of the Bards by 
 Edward I. who does not appear to have thought himself 
 secure in his newly-acquired dominions so long as this 
 influential order remained to raise the song and string 
 the lyre to deeds of patriotic resistance. The same sys- 
 tem of persecution seems to have been acted upon after 
 the death of the bardicide ; for, in the reign of Henry IV. 
 Rhys Goch, speaking of Gruffydd Llwyd, says, 
 
 " The best of bards is interdicted." 
 
 Within the area of the castle just described, in the 
 month of August, 1832, was held a splendid Congress of 
 Bards, or Eisteddfod, under the munificent patronage of 
 Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley. It was attended by most of the 
 
SQ BEAUMARIS CASTLE BARON HILL. 
 
 nobility and gentry of the neighbouring counties ; and 
 what gave peculiar eclat to the meeting, was the presence 
 of Her Royal Highness the Duchess of Kent, and her il- 
 lustrious daughter, the Princess Victoria, presumptive 
 heiress of the British crown. During several months of 
 this summer, the royal party had honoured the Princi- 
 pality with their residence, fixing their domicile for the 
 time at Plas Newydd, the elegant seat of the Marquis of 
 Anglesey. A grand Regatta in the bay followed the lite- 
 rary and musical contests at the castle, which afforded 
 great amusement, and the evenings were agreeably filled 
 up with splendid concerts, balls, &c. 
 
 At the annual boat races, held in the bay in September, 
 1833, an unfortunate event occurred, by the upsetting of 
 a boat belonging to Mr. Wright, editor of the Caernar- 
 von Herald, who was one of the competitors, by which 
 
 that gentleman, and one of his sons, were drowned 
 
 Mr. Wright was a gentleman of superior talents, and 
 liighly esteemed ; and such was the universal commisse- 
 ration, that a public subscription, in aid of his afflicted 
 widow and five surviving children, amounted to upwards 
 of £500. 
 
 Baron Hill. 
 
 On an eminence behind the town stands this charming 
 residence of the late Lord Bulkeley. At his death, it 
 descended to his nephew Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley, by 
 whom it is now occupied, but the title is extinct. It is 
 delightfully situated on the declivity of a richly-wooded 
 hill, and commanding a fine prospect of all the northern 
 mountains of Caernarvonshire, of the bay of Beaumaris, 
 and a long expanse of sea. This place has been in pos- 
 session of the Bulkeley family from the date of the se- 
 cond charter of the corporation of Beaumaris, procured 
 in the reign of Elizabeth. The house was originally 
 built in the reign of James I. for the reception of Henry 
 the eldest son of that monarch, when on his way to Ire- 
 land. But his untimely death so much affected Sir 
 Richard Bulkeley, the owner, that he gave up his ori- 
 ginal and magnificent plan, and used the part only that 
 was then completed for his family seat. The house was 
 greatly enlarged and improved by its late noble possessor, 
 
BARON HILL. — BEAUMARIS BAY. 87 
 
 and extensive alterations are now being made ; amongst 
 others, an entire new range of offices will be added, un- 
 der the superintendance of Mr. Harrison, of London. — 
 The extensive grounds are finely wooded, and laid out 
 with great taste and judgment, and the spirited owner 
 generously allows them to be thrown open for the accom- 
 modation of the public. 
 
 At a short distance east of the house, in a sylvan re- 
 cess, is the stone coffin of the Princess Joan, consort of 
 Llywelyn ab Iorwerth, Prince of Wales in 1105. It had 
 originally been deposited in the subjacent monastery of 
 Llanvaes, and on the dissolution of that house, was 
 placed to receive a watering-brook, like that of Richard 
 III. at Leicester, after the battle of Bosworth had proved 
 fatal to him. In 1812 it was discovered, applied to the 
 above ignoble purpose, by Mr. R. Llwyd, author of 
 Beaumaris Bay, after being lost for 290 years, when it 
 was removed to its present situation by the late Lord 
 Bulkeley. 
 
 A few hundred yards distant from Baron Hill is Hen- 
 llys Lodge, the residence of Captain Lewis Hampton, 
 which contains a valuable collection of curiosities, and 
 any respectable person is at liberty to inspect them. 
 
 Beaumaris Bay, 
 which stretches itself before and on each side the town, 
 forms a well-sheltered harbour, and in stormy weather 
 affords security to vessels of considerable burthen. The 
 depth of the water near the town is six or seven fathoms 
 even when the tide is out ; but this deep channel scarcely 
 extends more than a quarter of a mile in width. All the 
 rest of the bay, for several miles, is left dry at low 
 water, and has the name of the Lavan Sands. Among 
 the intelligent natives, an opinion is prevalent that these 
 sands once formed a habitable hundred of Caernarvon- 
 shire, and were first overflowed during the sixth century. 
 In this opinion, the gentleman whose name and work I 
 have quoted above, concurs. He says, "that a great 
 part of the shore now called Beaumaris Bay, was an- 
 ciently a marsh there is every reason to conclude, for 
 there occurs in the catalogue of British saints (Bonedd y 
 Saint) the name of a great proprietor, Helig ab Glanog, 
 
8£ LLANVAES ABBEY. — PENMON PRIOKY. 
 
 with, this addition, ' whose lands were overflowed by the 
 sea.' The above-mentioned inundation is also confirmed 
 by those at Traeth Mawr, Cantrev y Gwaelod, the ter- 
 ritory of Gwyddno Garanhir, and the Goodwin Sands, 
 in Kent, which took place nearly at the same period — by 
 the ruins of embankments called Sarnau (causeways) 
 that are still evident at the former, and in this Bay — by 
 the names also of tracts of lands, and wears, with those 
 of their holders, appearing in ancient MSS. of which 
 there are now no traces — by the sapping still seriously- 
 carried on by this insatiable element — by the tongue of 
 tradition, and by the observation of narrative age. And 
 when it is considered that this flat, or morass, presented 
 to the pressure of a heavy sea an ill-defended tract of 
 low land — that three great, besides several lesser rivers 
 poured into it the waters of half Eryri — and that equi- 
 noctial tides might meet the torrents, it is not suprising 
 that a local deluge should be the consequence, especially 
 in an age when art had not learnt to resist, and prudence 
 had done little to prevent it.** 
 
 Llanvaes Abbey. 
 About a mile from Beaumaris, near the seat of the 
 widow of the late Sir Robert Williams, Bart, and not 
 far from the shore, are yet to be seen, in the walls of a 
 barn, the poor remains of the house of Franciscan friars, 
 founded in the thirteenth century by Lly welyn ab Ior- 
 werth, Prince of Wales, still called by the above name. 
 At the dissolution, the establishment maintained eight 
 friars, of whom two only Were allowed to be Welshmen, 
 when the convent and its possessions were sold ; they are 
 at present the property of Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley. 
 
 Penmon Priory. 
 Two miles north of Llanvaes friary, stands this ancient 
 and decayed ruin, consisting at present of little more 
 than the ruinous refectory and part of the church. This 
 was a priory of Benedictine monks, dedicated to St. 
 Mary, founded in the sixth century, and re -endowed by 
 Lly welyn ab Iorwerth in the thirteenth. In the twenty- 
 sixth of Henry VIII. the revenues were valued at about 
 <£48 per annum . 
 
«, PUFFIN ISLAND* 89 
 
 PftlESTHOLM, OR PUFFIN ISLAND. 
 
 A small island, divided by the narrow channel called the 
 Sound, from the eastern extremity of Anglesey; its 
 British name, Ynys Seiriol, is derived from the residence 
 of St. Seiriol upon it in the sixth century : the compound 
 name of Priest-holm, originated in its being the occa- 
 sional retreat of the religious of the neighbouring priory 
 of Penmon It is also called Puffin Island, from its be- 
 ing annually resorted to by these birds for the purpose of 
 breeding. The only buildings at present on the island 
 are some fragments of a square tower, supposed once to 
 have been the monastery, and which now serves as a land- 
 mark ; the foundation of several buildings, and a small 
 house for the man who attends a signal staff erected here 
 in 1826, and forms part of the telegraphic communica- 
 tion between Liverpool and Holyhead. 
 
 This island is of an oval form, about a mile in length, 
 and in breadth about half a mile, extremely lofty, bound- 
 ed by precipices, except the side towards Penmon, and 
 even there the ascent is steep. The land to the edge of 
 these cliffs slopes gradually from the summit of the 
 island, and the surface affords only a scanty pasturage for 
 a few sheep and rabbits ; but the island is the resort of 
 various sea fowl during the breeding season. Those 
 who are fond of fishing and shooting, will find abundant 
 opportunities of gratifying their favourite passion on the 
 coast, and a sail boat can be readily procured at Garth 
 Point, and a pleasant aquatic excursion made from thence 
 to Puffin Island, passing through the picturesque Bay of 
 Beaumaris, the distance being nine miles. 
 
 Before finally quitting this interesting neighbourhood, 
 it is proper to record a most calamitous event, which oc- 
 curred in the Bay of Beaumaris, on the night of the 17th 
 
 of August, 1831 On the morning of that day, the 
 
 Rothsay Castle steamer left the pier head, Liverpool, for 
 Beaumaris, the number of passengers and seamen being 
 between 120 and 140 souls. After passing the floating- 
 light, stationed about fifteen miles from Liverpool, the 
 sea became very rough and the wind adverse ; and some 
 of the passengers, apprehensive of danger, in vain urged 
 the captain, Lieutenant Atkinson, to return back. Be- 
 
90 PUFFIN ISLAND. 
 
 tween the Great and Little Ormshead the vessel was 
 beating about for three hours, and soon after passing the 
 latter, night had come on, the sea running high, and the 
 tide ebbing. It was near twelve o'clock when they 
 arrived at the mouth of the Menai Strait, about five miles 
 from Beaumaris. When opposite the tower on Puffin 
 island, suddenly the steam got so low that the engine 
 would not keep the vessel on her proper course. It was 
 now indeed a moment of awe and consternation. The 
 worst fears of the passengers had every appearance of 
 being realized, and indeed the crisis was come ; the ves- 
 sel struck on what is called the spit of the Dutchman's 
 bank, where she remained immovable till she went to 
 pieces. To describe the scene of horror that accom- 
 panied and followed the awful catastrophe is beyond 
 human skill. At least one hundred persons are known 
 to have perished ; and twenty- one were ascertained to be 
 saved. 
 
 A very strict investigation into the causes of this 
 heavy calamity was subsequently instituted, from which 
 it appeared that the vessel itself was unfit for the station ; 
 that there were no guns on board to make signals of dis- 
 tress ; that the captain and mate were in a state of in- 
 toxication during the time of peril ; that there had been 
 great mismanagement and obstinacy on the part of the 
 former, and criminal negligence in omitting to furnish the 
 vessel with necessary apparatus for such an emergency. 
 The most praise-worthy activity is ascribed to the gentry 
 and other inhabitants of Beaumaris, as well as the boat- 
 men belonging to the Bay, in rescuing the surviving 
 sufferers, and providing places of decent sepulture for 
 the dead. On this subject the following testimony, from 
 the pen of Lieutenant Morrison, of the Royal Navy, who 
 has published a Narrative of the unfortunate wreck, is 
 truly valuable: — " The meritorious efforts made by Sir 
 Richard Bulkeley, Bart, and other gentlemen of the 
 neighbourhood, to insure respect to the remains of the 
 unfortunate sufferers, I believe to have been attended 
 with perfect success. Indeed I saw numerous valuable 
 and portable articles which had been saved, and lodged 
 in the hands of the authorities of Beaumaris, and which 
 might have been very readily abstracted by the finders, 
 
BEDD-GELERT. 91 
 
 to whom they offered great temptation. I never was 
 among the inhabitants of North Wales before, and I 
 must observe that the very excellent conduct of the lower 
 orders on this occasion forms a strong contrast to that I 
 have witnessed on the coasts of Devonshire, and the 
 south of Ireland." 
 
 From April to October, a steam -packet regularly 
 arrives from Liverpool every afternoon (except Sunday) 
 about five o'clock, at the Bangor Ferry inn (which has 
 lately been much improved and enlarged), and returns 
 the next morning between eight and nine o'clock, taking 
 passengers at Garth Point and Beaumaris. 
 
 BEDD-GELERT, 
 
 (CAERNARVONSHIRE.) 
 
 Aber-glaslyn 1^ Snowdon Summit .... 6 
 
 Caernarvon 13 Tan y Bwlch 9 
 
 Llanberis 14 Tre-Madoc 7 
 
 Bedd-gelert, a village situated in a beautiful tract of 
 meadows, at the junction of three vales, near the con- 
 flux of the Gwynnant and the Colwyn, which flow through 
 Nant Colwyn, a vale that leads to Caernarvon. Its situ- 
 ation, says Mr. Pennant, is the fittest in the world to 
 inspire religious meditation, amid lofty mountains, woods, 
 and murmuring streams. 
 
 The mountains huge appear 
 
 Emergent, and their broad bare backs upheave 
 
 Into the clouds ; their tops ascend the sky ; 
 
 and their rugged sides seem here to close, and impose an 
 invincible barrier into the interior of the country. Over 
 the river Colwyn is a venerable bridge of two arches, 
 which being on one side covered with ivy, has a very 
 beautiful appearance. 
 
 The church is small, yet the loftiest in Snowdonia. 
 The east window consists of three narrow slips ; the roof 
 is neat, and there yet remains some very pretty fret- work. 
 This church has been conventual, belonging to a priory 
 
92 BEDD-GELERT. 
 
 of Augustines, dedicated to the Virgin. Moel Hebog 
 (the hawk hill), rises to a point in front of the village. 
 Tradition says, that Llywelyn the Great came to reside 
 at Bedd-gelert during the hunting season, with his wife 
 and children, and one day, the family being absent, a 
 wolf had entered the house. On returning, his grey- 
 hound, called Kill-hart, met him, wagging his tail, but 
 covered with blood. The Prince being alarmed, ran into 
 the nursery, and found the cradle in which the child had 
 lain, overturned, and the ground covered with blood. 
 Imagining the greyhound had killed the child, he imme- 
 diately drew his sword and slew him ; but on turning up 
 the cradle, he found under it the child alive, and the 
 wolf dead. This so affected the Prince, that he erected 
 a tomb over his faithful dog's grave, where afterwards 
 the parish church was built, and called from this 
 incident, JBedd- Gelert, or the grave of Gelert. Some 
 beautiful stanzas, founded on this tradition, have been 
 composed by the Hon. W. R. Spencer, which are thought 
 too long for insertion here. The fame of this greyhound, 
 which Llywelyn received as a present from his father-in- 
 law, King John, has also been transmitted to posterity, 
 in four Welsh lines, which have been thus translated : — 
 
 The remains of fam'd Gelert, so faithful and good, 
 The bounds of the cantred conceal ; 
 
 Whenever the doe or the hart he pursued, 
 His master was sure of a meal. 
 
 In a field contiguous to the churchyard, is a large stone, 
 which is said to mark the spot where Gelert was buried ; 
 it is asserted that formerly it bore an inscription, but no 
 appearance remains at present, and probably it is a mere 
 traditional statement. Near the stone is a building, now 
 used as a cow-house, which is said to have been the re- 
 sidence of the Prince. 
 
 Behind the old public house opposite, is an interesting 
 view, consisting of a solemn dell, rugged with rock and 
 rude excrescences. The eye, in surveying this chasm, 
 is relieved now and then by spots of verdure, patches of 
 heath, thinly scattered sheep, and the beautiful curvature 
 of the mountain. In the Welsh annals this region is 
 
BEDD-GELERT. 93 
 
 styled the Forest of Snowdon. There is a comfortable 
 inn at this place, called the Goat, or Bedd-gelert hotel, 
 where a guide may at any time be procured. When Mr. 
 Nicholson traversed this part of the country, the name of 
 the guide was William Lloyd, who was also the village 
 schoolmaster, and who thus explained his occupation in 
 a placard stuck upon the door of the inn: — "William 
 Lloyd, conductor to Snowdon, Moel Hebog, Dinas Em- 
 rys, Llanberis pass, the lakes, water-falls, &c. &c." The 
 name of the present guide is Richard Edwards. 
 
 " While I was staying at Bedd-gelert," says Mr. Bing- 
 Jey, " I found myself one evening almost devoid of em- 
 ployment, and the moon shone so beautifully bright, that 
 I was tempted to ramble alone as far as the bridge. There 
 never was a more charming evening. The scene was not 
 clad in its late grand colours, but now more delicately 
 shaded and arrayed in softer charms. The darkening 
 shadows of the rocks cast a gloom, and the faint rays in 
 some places faintly reflected, gave to the straining eye a 
 very imperfect glimpse of the surfaces it looked upon, 
 while in others the moon shot her silver light through the 
 hollows, and brightly illumined the opposite rocks. All 
 was solitude, serene, and mild. The silence of the even- 
 ing was only interrupted by the murmuring of the brook, 
 which lulled to melancholy, and now and then by 
 the shrill scream of the night owl, flitting by me. I hung 
 over the battlements of the bridge, listening to the hoarse 
 fall of the water down the wear, and watching, as the 
 moon became more elevated, the decreasing shadows of 
 the mountains. I at length returned, after a most de- 
 lightful ramble of two hours." 
 
 On the road towards Aber-glaslyn, a stone is pointed 
 out by the name of the Chair of Rhys Goch o'r 'Ryri, 
 the famous mountain bard, cotemporary with Owen Glyn- 
 dwr. He was of the house of Havod-garegog, at the 
 entrance into the Traeth-mawr sands, from whence he 
 used to walk, and sitting on this, composed his poems. 
 Among others is a satire on a fox, for killing his favourite 
 peacock. He died about the year 1490, and was interred 
 in the holy ground at Bedd-gelert, escaping the vengeance 
 of the English, for inspiring his countrymen with the 
 love of liberty, and animating them by his compositions 
 into a long and gallant resistance to the galling yoke. 
 
94 NANT GWYNNANT. — LLYN DINAS. 
 
 The neighbourhood of Bedd-gelert abounds with ob- 
 jects worthy the tourist's attention ; and to several of 
 these we will conduct him. 
 
 Nant Gwynnant. 
 
 Turning to the right hand on crossing the bridge lead- 
 from the inn, you follow up the course of a stream that 
 waters one of the most beautiful vallies in Wales. On 
 the left, about half a mile up the valley, is a lofty wood- 
 clad rock, called Dinas Emrys, the fort of Ambrosius, 
 or Merlin Emrys, a magician who was sent for to this 
 place from Caer Merddin, (Caermarthenshire) by Vor- 
 tigern, who was King of Britain from 449 to 466. It 
 was to this place that Vortigern retired, when he found 
 himself despised by his subjects, and unable to contend 
 longer with the treacherous Saxons, whom he had intro- 
 duced into his kingdom. It is probable that this insular 
 rock afforded him a temporary residence, till he removed 
 to his final retreat in Nant Gwrtheryn, or Vortigern's 
 valley, not far from Nevyn, in the promontory of Lleyn. 
 Speed says, that Vortigern married his own child by 
 Rowena, daughter of Hengist, the Saxon Prince, and 
 had by her one son. 
 
 On passing round the foot of another beautiful isolated 
 rock, 
 
 Llyn Dinas, 
 
 The Pool of the Fort, a lake about a half to three-quar- 
 ters of a mile in extent, is spread before you. It is 
 entirely surrounded by lofty mountains, the tints of which 
 being of a deeper and browner shade than the generality 
 of Welsh hills, gives a peculiar richness to the confined 
 valley. The road runs close along the shore, overhung 
 by one of the magnificent buttresses of Snowdon : to the 
 right the eye stretches across the lake to the hills which 
 rise from the water's edge, above which a second tier of 
 mountains appear, the great chain which separates you 
 from the vale of Ffestiniog. At the termination of the 
 valley, from the crossing of two hills, you suspect that 
 a pass affords egress to the traveller. Nestling among the 
 trees at the base of one of these wooded heights, rests 
 the romantic and comfortable house of Mr. Sampson. 
 
CWM LLAN LLYN GWYNNANT, ETC. 95 
 
 The river which feeds the lake winds through the verdant 
 and undulating grounds which spread themselves, a min- 
 ature park, between the cottage and the lake. The pass 
 above-mentioned, affording space for the river and road 
 only, leads to a valley totally different from, though not 
 less beautiful than that of Llyn Dinas : the valley forms 
 a bowl among the hills, the bottom is a small grassy plain, 
 here and there dotted with trees, through which the river 
 winds ; the sides are magnificent mountains : it is beauty 
 sleeping in the lap of terror — On the left, the eye is led 
 to 
 
 Cwm Llan, 
 
 among the deepest recesses of Snowdonia. The imme- 
 diate boundary of the valley is succeeded by heights ris- 
 ing successively above each other, till the imagination is 
 left to picture in the deep azure sciaro scuro a mountain 
 wilderness still more sublime. Immediately above this 
 deep and gloomy gorge towers the Monarch of Hills, 
 sublime and terrific in his precipitous height, yet present- 
 ing in its conical summit, its cairn and landmark, a 
 graceful object, filling up the mountainous gap, the sides 
 
 of which form a suitable frame to this noble picture 
 
 You follow up the course of the stream, through the 
 same enchanting scenery, the road gradually ascending, 
 till you catch through the plantations on the left a view of 
 
 Llyn Gwynnant, 
 
 stretched below at your feet This lake and valley are 
 
 deeply set among the loftiest mountains of Wales or 
 England, and form one of the loveliest pictures in this 
 country. Two or three gentlemen's residences render 
 this valley cheerful, without destroying its character of 
 seclusion. 
 
 Shortly after leaving the lake, the most striking view 
 of Snowdon presents itself ; you look across the valley 
 on a huge precipice, over the edge of which, through a 
 wide sweeping dip in the hill, a very picturesque water- 
 fall, Rhaiadr cwm Dyli, is projected. Plain indications 
 of its source, 
 
 Llyn Llydan, 
 
 a highly elevated mountain lake, are apparent ; above 
 
96 LLYN Y DYWARCHEN. — PONT ABER-GLASLYN. 
 
 this rises a dark perpendicular wall of rock, towards the 
 summit of which craggy and sharp ridges run up, and 
 where they meet the towering peak of Snowdon rises, 
 the workmanship of Him who can combine beauty with 
 that which is strong and terrible ; shortly after, you join 
 the road from Capel Curig to Llanberis. Let no incon- 
 venience induce the tourist to relinquish this route. 
 
 In the vale of Colwyn, and nearly two miles from 
 Bedd-gelert, is a small pool, about the size of a good 
 horse pond, called 
 
 Llyn y Dywarchen, 
 
 or the Pool of the Sod, first celebrated by Giraldus Cam- 
 brensis, in the account of his journey through Wales in 
 the twelfth century, as containing a floating island. This 
 is still in existence, but not more than eight or nine 
 yards in length, and evidently appears to be a detached 
 
 piece of the turbery of which the bank is composed 
 
 There is a small willow tree growing upon it, and is 
 carried to and fro by the action of the wind and water. 
 Sometimes it remains near the side of the pool for a con- 
 siderable while, and it is so large and firm as to bear 
 cattle on it. When it has been dislodged by the wind, a 
 sheep or two have often been borne by it to the other 
 parts of the bank. Within two miles of Bedd-gelert is 
 situated 
 
 Pont Aber-glaslyn, 
 
 or the Bridge at the Conflux of the Blue Pool; it is 
 also called by the inhabitants, The DeviVs Bridge, on 
 which account it has sometimes been confounded with the 
 bridge of that name near Havod, in Cardiganshire. In 
 approaching this spot from Bedd-gelert, the rocks on 
 each side become incomparably grand. The road winds 
 along a narrow stony vale, where the huge cliffs so 
 nearly approach, as only just to leave width sufficient at 
 the bottom for the road, and the bed of the impetuous 
 torrent that rolls along the side of it. Here these lofty 
 rocks, which oppose nothing to the eye but a series of 
 the rudest precipices, " raised tier on tier, high pil'd 
 from earth to heaven," seem to forbid all further access, 
 and to frown defiance on the traveller. 
 
PONT ABER-GLASLYN. — BETTWS Y COED. 97 
 
 The bridge crosses the Glaslyn, and unites the counties 
 of Merioneth and Caernarvon. In the span it is thirty 
 feet, and from the water to the parapet forty feet high. 
 There is excellent fishing in this river ; it abounds with 
 salmon and trout. Some years ago, there was a noted 
 salmon leap a few yards above the bridge, and in the 
 course of an hour, twenty or thirty fish have been seen 
 attempting to spring over the barrier, but it is now broken 
 down and fallen into decay. The salmon come up the 
 river in the latter end of the year, sometimes as early as 
 the beginning of October, in order to deposit their spawn 
 on the sandy shallows, and are here very plentiful. The 
 fishery belongs to the Wynn family. When the tourist 
 has passed the bridge, and proceeded about one hundred 
 yards on the Tre-Madoc road, he will then see the view 
 in perfection. The elegant and venerable arch clothed 
 with ivy — the foam of the little water-fall almost beneath 
 it — the majestic rocks to the right of it — here is one of 
 the finest pictures in Wales. 
 
 It was probably from this place that Giraldus Cambrensis 
 asserted of Merionethshire, that it was "the roughest 
 and most dreary part of Wales, for its mountains were 
 both high and perpendicular, and in many places so 
 grouped together, that shepherds talking or quarrelling 
 on their tops, could scarcely, in a whole day's journey, 
 come together." 
 
 There is very good fishing in this neighbourhood, at 
 a lake called Llyn y Dinas, about two miles from Bedd- 
 gelert ; the fish are good for the table, of the weight of 
 about half a pound ; however trouts of five or six pounds 
 weight have been taken. There are two boats kept by 
 Robert Roberts; the flat-bottomed one is considered the 
 
 better and the safer for angling Another lake appears, 
 
 somewhat smaller, called Llyn Gwynnant, which has 
 been injured by being netted, but still affords fair sport 
 for the angler. 
 
 BETTWS Y COED, 
 
 (CAERNARVONSHIRE.) 
 
 Capel Curig 5 Llanrwst 5 
 
 Cerniogau Mawr 9£ 
 
98 BETTWS Y COED.— CADER IDRIS. 
 
 Bettws y Coed, or, The Station in the Wood, a small 
 village, pleasantly situated on the Shrewsbury and Holy- 
 head road, not far distant from the junction of the Llugwy 
 and the Conway. The church stands in a little cemetry 
 in the centre of the vale, enclosed by a few stately forest 
 trees, and forms a venerable and interesting object. It 
 contains an old monument in memory of Griffith, the son 
 of David Goch, who was a natural son of David, brother 
 to Llywelyn, the last Prince of Wales. He died in the 
 fourteenth century, and is here represented by a large 
 armed recumbent figure in a recess in the north wall. On 
 one side of the figure, there is yet left this inscription :— 
 (S Hicjacet Gruffydd ap Davyd Goch, agnus Dei miser e 
 mei." Within a mile distant, is a bridge, consisting of a 
 single arch of iron, of 105 feet in the span, and called 
 the Waterloo Bridge, from the circumstance of its having 
 been erected in the same year in which the battle of 
 Waterloo was fought. It carries the Holyhead road over 
 the Conway. 
 
 Near Bettws y Coed is also Pont y Pair, a most sin- 
 gular bridge, flung over the Llugwy, consisting of four 
 arches, placed on the rude rocks, which form most dura- 
 ble piers. These rocks are precipitous, and in high floods 
 exhibit to the passenger most awful cataracts below the 
 bridge. The scenery beyond, of rocky mountains, fringed 
 with woods, is very striking. The river Conway affords 
 good salmon and trout fishing. 
 
 CADER IDRIS, 
 
 (MERIONETHSHIRE.) 
 
 Dolgellau 6 Machynlleth 18 
 
 Dinas Mowddwy 7 Towyn 15 
 
 The mountain of Cader Idris, in height the second in 
 Wales, rises upon the sea-shore, close upon the northern 
 side of the estuary of the small river Disynwy, about a 
 mile from Towyn. It proceeds with almost a constant 
 ascent, first northward for about three miles, then for 
 ten miles further runs e. n. e. giving out from its summit 
 a branch nearly three miles long in a south-westerly 
 
CADEH IDRIS. 99 
 
 direction, parallel to the main ridge. It is very steep 
 and craggy on every side, but the southern descent, 
 especially to the border of Tal-y-llyn lake, is the most 
 precipitous, being nearly perpendicular. Its breadth 
 bears but a small proportion to its length, a line passing 
 along its base, and intersecting the summit, would 
 scarcely equal four miles and a half ; and in the other 
 parts it is a mere ridge, whose base hardly ever exceeds 
 one mile in breadth. 
 
 Cader Idris is the beginning of a chain of primitive 
 mountains, extending in a N. N. E. direction, and includ- 
 ing the Arrans and the Arrenigs. It is much loftier and 
 more craggy than the slate and secondary mountains 
 which surround it. Dolgellau is the place from which 
 the ascent to this mountain is usually made ; and it shall 
 be our first business to present our readers with an ac- 
 count of an excursion made from that town by the 
 accurate Mr. A. Aikin, only premising, that in all cases, 
 whoever attempts the enterprise, it will be necessary to 
 provide himself with a guide. 
 
 * ' The day being promising, we set off after breakfast 
 to examine this mountain. A small lake, called Llyn y 
 Gader, lies about a mile and a half or two miles on the 
 high road to Towyn, which having arrived at, we quitted 
 the road and began our ascent. In this lake is found the 
 lobelia dortmanna, narthecium ossifragum, the elegant 
 nymphoea lutea, and the aromatic nymphoea alba. When 
 we had surmounted the exterior ridge, we descended a 
 little to a deep clear lake, which is kept constantly full 
 by the numerous tributary torrents which fall down the 
 surrounding rocks. Hence we climbed a second and still 
 higher train, up a steep but not difficult tract, over nu- 
 merous fragments of rock, detached from the higher 
 parts ; we now came to a second and more elevated lake, 
 called Llyn y Cae, clear as glass, and overlooked by 
 steep cliffs in such a manner as to resemble the crater of 
 a volcano, of which a most accurate representation may 
 be seen in Wilson's excellent view of Cader Idris. Some 
 travellers have mentioned the finding lava and other 
 volcanic productions here : on a strict examination how- 
 ever, we were unable to find any thing of the kind, nor 
 did the water of the lake appear to differ in any respect 
 
100 CADER IDRIS. 
 
 from the purest rock water, though it was tried repeatedly 
 by the most delicate chemical tests. A clear, loud, and 
 distinct echo repeats every shout which is made near the 
 lake. The waters of this lake cover an extent of fifty 
 acres, abounding with trout and other fish. 
 
 ' * We now began our last and most difficult ascent up the 
 summit of Cader Idris itself. The loose columnar stones 
 lie about in all directions, assuming, in many places so 
 regular an appearance, that they may be mistaken for 
 Druidic remains ; some of them stand erect, like Meini- 
 hirion, and one of them is dignified with the title of 
 Llech Idris. Nearer the summit, numerous masses of 
 irregular figures present themselves. Having gained this 
 ascent, a small plain forms the base to two eminences or 
 rocky heads of nearly equal height, one lying towards the 
 north, called Tyrrau Mawr ; the other to the south, 
 called Pen y Gader. We made choice of the latter, 
 which appeared to be most elevated, and seated ourselves 
 upon its highest pinnacle to rest, after a laborious ascent 
 of three hours. We were now above all the eminences 
 within a vast expanse, and as the clouds gradually cleared 
 away, caught some grand views of the surrounding 
 country. The huge rocks, which we before looked up 
 to with astonishment, were now far below our feet, and 
 many a small lake appeared in the vallies between them. 
 To the north, Snowdon and its dependencies shut up the 
 scene ; on the west, we saw the whole curve of the bay of 
 Cardigan, bounded at a great distance by the Caernarvon 
 mountains, and nearer, dashing its white breakers, against 
 the rocky coast of Merioneth. The southern horizon was 
 bounded by Pumlumon, the bay of Swansea, the channel, 
 peeping through the opening of the Brecon mountains ; 
 and on the east, the eye glanced over the lake of Bala, 
 the two Arrenig mountains, the two Arrans, and the long 
 chain of Berwyn mountains, to the Breiddin hills on the 
 confines of Shropshire. Dimly, in the distant horizon, 
 was beheld the Wrekin, rising alone from the plain of 
 Salop. 
 
 * ' Having satisfied our curiosity, and being thoroughly 
 chilled by the keen air of these elevated regions, we 
 began to descend down the side, opposite to that we came 
 up. The first stage led us to another beautiful mountain 
 
CADER IDRIS. 101 
 
 lake, the cold clear waters of which discharged their 
 superabundance in a stream down the side of the moun- 
 tain. All these lakes abound with trout ; and in some 
 is found the gwyniaid, a fish peculiar to rocky alpine 
 lakes. Following the course of the stream, we came 
 upon the edge of the craggy cliffs which overlook Tal- 
 y-llyn lake ; a long and difficult descent conducted us, 
 at last, to the borders of Tal-y-llyn, where we entered 
 the Dolgellau road." 
 
 The above description of this famous mountain is 
 equally lively and interesting. Mr. Bingley's survey was 
 executed under the disadvantage of bad weather, and 
 adds nothing to the information ; but Mr. Warner's de- 
 lineation of the grandeur of the view from the summit 
 will not be read without interest. Having ascended to 
 the top, he remarks — " The afternoon was gloriously 
 fine, and the atmosphere perfectly clear, so that the vast 
 unbounded prospect lay beneath us, unobscured by cloud, 
 vapour, or any other interruption to the astonished and 
 delighted eye, which threw its glance over a varied scene, 
 including a circumference of at least five hundred miles. 
 To the north-west is seen Ireland, like a distant mist 
 upon the ocean ; and a little to the right, Snowdon, and 
 the other mountains of Caernarvonshire. Further on, in 
 the same direction, the Isle of Man, the neighbourhood 
 of Chester, Wrexham, and Salop ; the sharp head of 
 the Wrekin, and the undulating summit of the Clee 
 hills — To the south, we have the country round Clifton, 
 Pembrokeshire, St. David's, and Swansea ; and to the 
 westward, a vast prospect of the British channel unfolds 
 itself, which is bounded only by the horizon. Exclusive 
 of these distant objects, the nearer views are wonder- 
 fully striking. Numberless mountains of different forms, 
 appearances, and elevation, rise in all directions around 
 us, which, with the various harbours, lakes and rivers, 
 towns, villages, and seats, scattered over the extensive 
 prospect, combine to form a scene inexpressibly august, 
 diversified, and impressive." 
 
 Of the heights of this mountain, of Arran-Vowddwy, 
 and of the Arrenig Vawr, says Mr. Pennant, I am en- 
 abled to give a very exact account, by the assistance of 
 the ingenious Mr. Meredith Hughes, of Bala, who as- 
 
102 CADER IDRIS. — CAERGWRLE. 
 
 sures me that the Pen y Gader is nine hundred and fifty 
 yards higher than the green near Dolgellau ; Arran- 
 Vowddwy, seven hundred and forty above Llyn-tegid ; 
 and the Arrenig, only twenty yards short of Arran ; that 
 the fall from the lake to Dolgellau green, is one hundred 
 and eighty yards ; so that the real difference of height 
 between the Cader and the Arran is only thirty yards.— 
 Two graves, where human bodies were deposited, have 
 been lately discovered at the foot of Cader Idris, under 
 two immense carnedds. 
 
 Within the last few years, for the accommodation of 
 visitors, a cottage has been erected on the summit of the 
 mountain, by Richard Pugh, who resides at Dolgellau, 
 and who acts in the capacity of guide. This has proved 
 of great advantage to visitors, who before were not un- 
 frequently assailed by the teeming shower, without an 
 opportunity of shelter ; and who had no spot for tempo- 
 rary refreshment, while waiting for the dispersion of the 
 misty clouds, in order to enjoy the exquisite prospect — 
 Here parties or individuals may have all convenient re- 
 freshments. The road up the mountain on the Dolgellau 
 side has lately been much improved, so as to enable ladies 
 and gentlemen to ride up to the very top, with the great- 
 est ease and safety, which cannot be done on the other 
 side of the mountain without great danger. The charge 
 of the guide for conducting a party to the summit is five 
 shillings, and the same sum is paid for each of the poneys 
 employed in the ascent. 
 
 For angling stations, see Dolgellau and Tal-y-llyn. 
 
 CAERGWRLE, 
 
 (FLINTSHIRE.) 
 
 Chester 12 Mold 6 
 
 Ha warden.,,... 6 Wrexham 5 
 
 Caergwrle was once a flourishing town, but has dwin- 
 dled into an insignificant village. Its parish church is 
 about a mile distant. There is good reason for believing 
 that Caergwrle was a Roman station, probably an out- 
 post to Deva. Camden discovered here an hypocaust, 
 
CAERGWRLE HOPE. 103 
 
 hewn out of the solid rock, six yards and a quarter long, 
 five yards broad, and somewhat more than half a yard in 
 height. On some of the tiles were inscribed the letters 
 Legio xx. which seem to point out the founders. This 
 is further corroborated by the name of the place, " Caer 
 gawrlleng," the camp of the great legion; Cawr lleng 
 being the name by which the Britons distinguished the 
 twentieth legion. 
 
 The castle stood on the summit of a high rock. Its 
 present remains are very inconsiderable ; they are, how- 
 ever, sufficient to indicate that it never could have been 
 a fortress of any great importance. The founder has not 
 been ascertained ; but, from its construction, it has been 
 evidently of British origin. Edward I. having wrested 
 it out of the hands of David, Llywelyn's brother, gave 
 the castle to his consort, Queen Eleanor, from which it 
 acquired the name of Queen's Hope. She lodged here 
 in her journey to Caernarvon ; and either during her 
 abode in the castle, or very shortly afterwards, it was by 
 some accident set on fire and burnt. 
 
 Hope,* or Queen's Hope, 
 is an inconsiderable village, little more than a mile from 
 Caergwrle ; it also has the remains of a castle, at which 
 Queen Eleanor made some stop on her way to Caernar- 
 von. Within a short distance is Bryn Yorkyn, the pa- 
 ternal seat of Ellis Yonge, Esq. a descendant of Tudor 
 Trevor. The form of the house is quadrangular, with 
 a square wing at each corner, five stories high, erected 
 in 1610, and according to some, by Inigo Jones. Near 
 to this place, also, stands an ancient and fine looking 
 mansion, called Plas Teg, the seat of C. B. Trevor 
 Roper, Esq. a descendant of the Dacre family. Caer- 
 gwrle and Hope, in conjunction with Flint, Caerwys, 
 Rhuddlan, Overton, and Holywell, send a member to 
 parliament. 
 
 Angling station : — The river Allyn. 
 
 * Called by the Welsh, Estyn. 
 
104 CAERNARVON. 
 
 CAERNARVON, 
 
 (CAERNARVONSHIRE.) 
 
 Bangor 9 Llanberis 10 
 
 Beaumaris 13 London by Chester... 254 
 
 Bedd-gelert 13 by Shrewsbury 236 
 
 CapelCurig 17 Pwllheli 20 
 
 Dolbadarn Castle .... 8 Tan-y-Bwlch 23 
 
 Ffestiniog... 25 Tre Madoc 20 
 
 Caernarvon is the capital of the county, and, on the 
 whole, the most beautiful town in North Wales : its name 
 is properly Caer yn Arvon, which signifies a walled town 
 in the district opposite to Anglesey. Ar Von or Ar Mdn, 
 implies opposite to Mona. It is situated on the eastern 
 bank of the Menai, the strait that divides the isle of An- 
 glesey from the other parts of Wales, and is a place ex- 
 tremely well adapted for a pleasant retreat during the 
 summer months. Its situation between the mountains 
 and the island renders it a convenient place of residence 
 for travellers who wish to visit both. The walls round 
 the town are even yet nearly entire, and, as well as the 
 castle, seem to bear much the same external appearance 
 which they did in the time of their founder, Edward I. 
 They have in them a number of round towers, and two 
 principal gates, entrances to the town. Over one of these 
 is a spacious room, which is used as the town-hall, and 
 in which the dancing assemblies are frequently held. 
 The houses inside the walls are for the most part tolerably 
 regular, but some of the streets, as in all other ancient 
 towns, are very narrow and confined. Within the last 
 few years, the town has been considerably enlarged out- 
 side the walls ; extensive ranges of buildings and many 
 good houses have been erected. The town is lighted 
 with gas, and the inhabitants are supplied with water 
 by pipes from the mountains. 
 
 On the outside of the walls, there is a broad and very 
 pleasant terrace walk along the side of the Menai, ex- 
 tending from the quay to the north end of the town walls, 
 which is the fashionable promenade in fine evenings, for 
 all descriptions of people. The county hall, in which the 
 
CAERNARVON. 105 
 
 assizes are held, and where all the county business is 
 done, stands nearly opposite the castle gates; it is an 
 appropriate building, but not distinguished by any archi- 
 tectural features of importance : and near to it is the 
 county prison, to which purpose one of the ancient towers 
 has been converted. 
 
 The custom-house is on the outside of the walls, which, 
 though a small and mean building, is conveniently situated. 
 The harbour has been much improved under the provisions 
 of an act lately passed for that purpose, and a pier has 
 been constructed, so that vessels of considerable burthen 
 can lie alongside the quay. A patent slip, for repairing 
 vessels has also lately been laid down. The port carries 
 on an extensive coasting trade with Liverpool, Bristol, 
 and Dublin: the principal imports are, timber from the 
 American colonies ; wine, coal, groceries, and other 
 commodities, from the neighbouring coasts ; and the 
 principal exports are copper ore and slates, of which 
 many thousand tons are exported every year to different 
 parts of the kingdom. These slates are brought from 
 Cilgwyn, The White Recess, in the parish of Llanllyfni ; 
 Cefn Dii, The Black Ridge, in the parish of Llanmg ; 
 and Allt Ddu, The Black Cliff, in the mountains on 
 the north-east side of the pools of Llanberis. A rail-road 
 has lately been formed from Llanllyfni to Caernarvon, a 
 distance of more than nine miles, for the purpose of con- 
 veying the copper ore and slates to the quay. 
 
 Caernarvon is in the parish of Llanbeblig, which is 
 situated about half a mile from the town, in which church 
 the service is always performed in the Welsh language. 
 The chapel, dedicated to St. Mary, and situated within 
 the walls, appears to have been originally erected for the 
 use of the garrison only ; it has been since elegantly fitted 
 up as a chapel of ease to the parish church, and a gallery 
 was erected in 1829. The service is performed here in 
 English, in the morning, and Welsh and English alter- 
 nately in the evening. There are also two large chapels 
 belonging to the Calvinists and Wesleyans, and an English 
 Wesleyan chapel. 
 
 Caernarvon is remarkable for having been the first 
 town in the Principality that enjoyed the privilege of a 
 royal charter, which was granted by Edward I The 
 
106 CAERNARVON CASTLE. 
 
 government of the place is vested in a mayor, (who is 
 always constable of the castle) two bailiffs, a recorder, 
 burgesses, &c. In conjunction with the boroughs of 
 Conway, Criccieth, Nevin, Pwllheli, and Bangor, Caer- 
 narvon returns a member to parliament. 
 
 A market-house and shambles have been erected by 
 the corporation, which have proved a great convenience to 
 the town, and the market, which is plentifully supplied, 
 is held on Saturday. The hotel, built by the Marquis of 
 Anglesey, is an establishment of the very first order, 
 where the best accommodations may be had. Hot and 
 cold baths have also been erected by the Marquis of An- 
 glesey, with which also is connected a billiard room. 
 The principal inns, besides the hotel are, the Sportsman, 
 the Goat, the Castle, and the Commercial inn. In 1831, 
 the population, including the parish, was 7642. 
 
 From the top of Twthill, the rock beyond the Uxbridge 
 Arms hotel, which is easily accessible, there is a most 
 extensive and varied prospect. From hence the castle, 
 and the whole of the town walls, are seen to the greatest 
 advantage ; and, on a fine day, the isle of Anglesey, 
 bounded on two sides by the Holyhead and Parys moun- 
 tains, appear spread out like a map before the eye. 
 
 Caernarvon Castle. 
 The best account we have met with of this magnificent 
 structure, is given by Mr. Bingley, from whose work we 
 subjoin the following extract. "-* The entrance into this 
 stupendous monument of ancient grandeur, is through a 
 lofty gateway, over which is yet left a mutilated figure, 
 supposed by most writers to be that of Edward I. In 
 this gate there are the grooves of no less than four port- 
 cullisses, evidences of the former strength of the fortress. 
 The building is large, but irregular, and much more 
 shattered within, than, from viewing it on the outside, 
 one would be led to imagine. The towers are chiefly 
 octagonal, but three or four of them have each ten sides : 
 among the latter is the the Eagle Tower, the largest, and 
 by far the most elegant in the whole building. This 
 tower, which received its name from the figure of an 
 eagle yet left (though somewhat mutilated) at the top of 
 it, stands at one end of the oblong court of the castle, 
 
CAERNARVON CASTLE. 107 
 
 and lias three handsome turrets issuing from it. It was 
 in the eagle tower that Edward, the first Prince of Wales, 
 afterwards Edward II. was born, on St. Mark's day, 25th 
 of April, 1284. From the top of this tower I was highly 
 gratified by a very extensive view of the isle of Anglesey, 
 the Menai, and the country for many miles round. 
 
 "At the other end of the court, and opposite to this 
 tower, is a gate called the Queen's Gate. This is said 
 to be that through which the faithful Eleanor, Queen of 
 Edward I. first entered the castle. It appears to have 
 been guarded by two portcullisses, and it had anciently a 
 communication with the outside of the castle, by means 
 of a draw-bridge over a moat. At present it is consider- 
 ably above the level of the ground, owing probably to 
 the moat having been filled up with earth from this part. 
 The state apartments are larger, and appear to have been 
 much more commodious than any of the others. The 
 windows were wide, and not inelegant for the times. On 
 the outside, the building containing these apartments is 
 square, but I was surprised, on going into them, to find 
 all the rooms perfectly polygonal, the sides being formed 
 out of the vast thickness of the walls. The floors and 
 stair-cases throughout the castle are, except one or two, 
 beaten in and demolished. A narrow gallery, or covered 
 way, formerly extended round this fortress, by which, 
 during a siege, a communication could be had with the 
 other parts without danger. On one side, this gallery 
 yet remains undemolished. It was next to the outer wall, 
 and was lighted by narrow slips that served as stations, 
 from whence arrows, and other missile weapons, could 
 be discharged with advantage upon the enemy. 
 
 " The castle occupies the whole west end of the town ; 
 and was a place of such strength, as, before the intro- 
 duction of artillery, to withstand the most furious attacks 
 of an enemy. The exterior walls are in general about 
 nine feet thick. It is bounded on two sides by water : 
 the third side appears to have been bounded by a ditch, 
 and the fourth was towards the town, where probably 
 the same ditch might have been continued. From a heap 
 of rubbish near the end of the court, opposite the Eagle 
 tower, an echo may be heard which repeats several syl- 
 lables very distinctly. There is only a single reverbera- 
 tion, and it comes from some part of that tower. n 
 
108 CAERNARVON CASTLE. 
 
 Caernarvon castle, it has justly been observed, from 
 whatever point, or at whatever distance it is viewed, has 
 a romantic singularity, and an air of dignity that com- 
 mands an awe, at the same time that it pleases the 
 beholder. Its ivy-clad walls appear in some parts to be 
 going fast to decay, while in others they even yet retain 
 their ancient exterior. On the 1st of February, 1828, 
 the Eagle tower received considerable injury by lightning, 
 which cracked the walls for several yards from the top, 
 and displaced large masses of stone. 
 
 It is more than probable, that the town of Caernarvon 
 had its origin in the Roman city of Segontium, about half 
 a mile distant, and that it is not, as many have supposed, 
 indebted for its name to Edward I. for the fort in Arfon, 
 or in the hundred opposite to Anglesey, as the name 
 indicates, would apply with equal propriety to the ancient 
 city as to this more modern fortress. The town, however, 
 there is no doubt, was the creation of Edward, and it 
 was most probably formed from the ruins of the old sta- 
 tion. The site of the ancient city of Segontium, lies 
 about half a mile south of Caernarvon, the ancient Ro- 
 man station, mentioned in the Itinerary of Antonius. 
 This appears to have been the principal station that the 
 Romans had in North Wales, all the rest being only sub- 
 ordinate stations. It received its name from the river 
 Seiont, which rises in the lower lake of Llanberis, passes 
 under the walls, and discharges itself into the Menai near 
 Caernarvon castle. Its form was an oblong ; and it ap- 
 pears originally to have occupied about six acres of ground. 
 Not far from hence was the fort which belonged to it : 
 this was also of an oblong figure, and stood upon about 
 an acre of ground. The walls are at present about eleven 
 feet high, and six in thickness, and at each corner there 
 has formerly been a tower. A chapel, said to be founded 
 by Helen, daughter of Octavius, Duke of Cornwall, and 
 a well which bears her name, are amongst the ruins still 
 pointed out. The chapel was standing little more than a 
 century ago. 
 
 Caernarvon, from its beautiful situation, and the ex- 
 cellent accommodations which it furnishes, attracts nu- 
 merous summer residents; and, from its contiguity to 
 many of the most attractive objects of curiosity in the 
 
CAERWYS. 109 
 
 country, is generally made a fixed station to travellers 
 and tourists, from which excursions may be made to Plas 
 Newydd, in Anglesey ; to Snowdon, Menai Bridge, the 
 vale and lakes of Llanberis, Bedd-gelert, Aber-glaslyn, &c. 
 A new road has recently been opened from Caernarvon 
 to Capel Curig, through the highly romantic vale of 
 Llanberis, passing directly along the margin of the lakes, 
 and introducing to view an extent of mountainous country 
 scarcely to be equalled for sublimity of scenery. A coach 
 runs on this road daily, during the summer months, to 
 Capel Curig, Conway, &c. 
 
 CAERWYS, 
 
 (FLINTSHIRE.) 
 
 Chester 23 London 212 
 
 Denbigh 7j Mold 12 
 
 Holywell 6 St. Asaph 7 
 
 Caerwys, formerly a market town, with the parish of 
 the same name, contains about a thousand inhabitants, 
 being situated on the high road leading from Holywell to 
 Denbigh, through the beautiful Vale of Clwyd. Caer- 
 wys has the most considerable fairs for cattle, sheep, 
 pigs, and horses, in all the county, though its markets 
 have long since failed. The market-house still remains, 
 but it has been converted, time out of mind, into a 
 dwelling-house. It is close to the cross ; to the s. w. the 
 arches are yet plainly to be seen, though filled up ; and 
 the remains of an erect south dial are yet distinctly to be 
 seen in the south wall. 
 
 A few hundred yards to the west, is a most beautiful 
 dingle, known by the name of Maesmynan Wort, well 
 worth a ramble to the admirer of nature and the botanist. 
 Near the place where the brook, which runs through this 
 dingle by Maesmynan House, empties itself into the 
 Wheeler, was formerly the residence of Llywelyn ab 
 Gruffydd, the last native Prince of Wales : a cottage, 
 now called Pandy, shews the place where the Prince 
 resided. 
 
 Among the towns of the Principality, this was formerly 
 
110 CAERWYS. 
 
 a place of great renown ; but its glory is faded away, 
 and nought remains to evidence its ancient consequence 
 but its name. This is a compound of the two words, 
 Caer, a city, and gwys, a summons, notifying its having 
 been a place of judicature. The assizes for the county 
 were held in the town of Caerwys, till about the middle 
 of the seventeenth century, when they were removed to 
 Flint ; the gaol is yet remaining, though converted into 
 a dwelling-house, called Yr hen Gaol. This still continues 
 to be one of the contributary boroughs for the return of 
 a member to parliament. Mr. Pennant, upwards of fifty 
 years ago, describes Caerwys as a " town mouldering 
 away with age." The chief boast of this town was its 
 being the Olimpia of North Wales, the theatre where 
 the ancient British bards poured forth their extempora- 
 neous effusions, 
 
 " In thoughts that breathe, and words that burn." 
 
 and where the honoured minstrels awakened 
 
 ' ' Their harps to soul-enchanting melody, 
 
 And gave to rapture all their trembling strings." 
 
 Here were held, the ancient Eisteddvod.au, or Con- 
 gresses of Bards and Minstrels, where judges presided, 
 appointed by special commission from the Princes of 
 Wales previous to the conquest, and from the Kings of 
 England after that event. These arbiters were bound to 
 pronounce justly and impartially on the talents of the 
 respective candidates, and grant degrees according to 
 merit. The Bards were formed into a college, the 
 members of which had particular privileges to be enjoyed 
 by none but such as were admitted to their degrees, and 
 licensed by the judges — The last commission granted by 
 royal authority for holding this court of Apollo seems to 
 have been in the 9th of Elizabeth, when Sir Richard 
 Bulkeley, Knt. and certain other persons were empow- 
 ered to make proclamation in the towns of North Wales, 
 that all persons intending to follow the profession of 
 Bards, &c. should appear before them at Caerwys on a 
 certain day, in order to give proofs of their talents in 
 
CAERWYS. Ill 
 
 the science of music, and to receive licences to practise 
 the same. The meeting was numerous, and fifty-five 
 persons were admitted to their degrees. From this 
 period, these meetings were discontinued at Caerwys, 
 and throughout the Principality ; the minstrel ceased to 
 be considered a venerable character in England, and our 
 monarchs looked, probably, with equal contempt on the 
 Bards of Wales. Thus neglected and despised, the 
 Eisteddvodau dwindled to nothing, and reposed in ob- 
 livion for many years. 
 
 Towards the close of the last century, however, some 
 spirited Welsh gentlemen, who had the honour of their 
 national harmony and literature at heart, determined to 
 revive a meeting likely to preserve and encourage that 
 music and language, the excellence of which has for 
 ages been enthusiastically admired by their countrymen. 
 In the spring of 1798, their resolution was carried into 
 effect ; and an Eisteddvod was held at Caerwys, the 
 ancient place of meeting Since this period, Eistedd- 
 vodau have been frequent in different parts of the Prin- 
 cipality ; but we shall here, once for all, introduce an 
 account of the Caerwys congress, drawn up by a gentle- 
 men of Flintshire, that the English reader may acquaint 
 himself with the nature and objects of these national 
 assemblies. 
 
 In consequence of a notice published by the Gwynedd- 
 igion or Venedotian Society, in London, the Eisteddvod, 
 or Congress of Bards, commenced at Caerwys, on 
 Tuesday, 29th of May, 1798. Ancient custom requires, 
 that the notice should be given a twelve -month and a 
 day, prior to the holding of the meeting. The ancient 
 town-hall was properly prepared for the company, which 
 was very numerous and respectable, by the judges ap* 
 pointed by the above society, to whose activity and 
 public spirit on this occasion too much praise cannot be 
 given. The first day was taken up in reading and com- 
 paring the works of the different cadidates for the gadair, 
 or chair. On a subject so congenial to the spirit of the 
 ancient Britons, as " The love of our country, and the 
 * * commemoration of the celebrated Eisteddvod held at 
 " the same town, and under the same roof, by virtue of 
 " a commission from Queen Elizabeth,'* the thesis judi- 
 
112 
 
 ciously fixed, upon by the Gwyneddigion, it was natural 
 to suppose, that the productions would be numerous and 
 animated, which proved to be the fact. After mature 
 deliberation, the judges decided in favour of Robert ap 
 Dafydd, of Nantglyn, in Denbighshire, better known 
 among the bards as Robin Ddu o Nantglyn, or still more 
 generally as The Bard of Nantglyn. The next to him 
 in point of merit, was Thomas Edwards o'r Nant, by 
 some called the Welsh Shakespeare, on account of the 
 excellence of his dramatic pieces in the Welsh language. 
 
 Towards the heel of the evening, the Bards, when 
 their native fire was a little heated by cwrw da, poured 
 forth their extemporaneous effusions, on subjects started 
 at the moment, which, though truly excellent in their 
 kind, reminded the classical scholar of the poet mentioned 
 by Horace, who composed two hundred lines stans pede 
 in uno. Of these productions, the Englynion, or separate 
 stanzas, on Mr. Owen Jones, (alias, Owain Myvyr) of 
 London, the gentleman who was the principal encourager 
 of the meeting, as having contributed twenty pounds to 
 be distributed in prizes to the different competitors, 
 deserves the most eminent praise. 
 
 On the second day, the vocal and instrumental perform- 
 ers exhibited their powers ; and after a contest of twelve 
 hours and upwards, Robert Foulkes, of St. Asaph, was 
 declared to be the Pencerdd tavod, or chief vocal per- 
 former ; and William Jones, of Gwytherin, to be the 
 Pencerdd tant, or the chief harper. The number of 
 Bards who attended this meeting amounted to twenty, of 
 vocal performers to eighteen, and of the harpers to 
 twelve. Several conniseurs in music, who were present, 
 declared that they never recollected a contest of this 
 nature to be better maintained, or to afford more 
 amusement. 
 
 Hail, then, ye mighty masters of the lay, 
 
 Nature's true sons, the friends of man and truth, 
 
 Whose song, sublimely sweet, serenely gay, 
 Amus'd my childhood, and inform'd my youth. 
 
 O let your spirit still my bosom soothe, 
 
 Inspire my dreams, and my wild wanderings guide, 
 
 Your voice each rugged path of life can smooth ; 
 
CAERWYS CAPEL CURIG. 113 
 
 For well I know, wherever ye reside, 
 
 There harmony and peace, and innocence abide. 
 
 Before finally dismissing Caerwys, it should be observed, 
 the Rev. John Llwyd, the bosom friend and travelling 
 companion of Mr. Pennant, and a man who was no less 
 esteemed for the amiableness of his manners than an 
 extensive knowledge of the history and Antiquities of 
 Wales, was Vicar of this place. His daughter, Miss 
 Angharad Llwyd, who still resides in this borough, is a 
 lady of distinguished talent, and extensive information, 
 in similar studies, and has upon several occasions been 
 decorated with the trophies of triumph for her superior 
 composition at recent celebrations of the Eisteddvodau. 
 The Rev. Richard Richards is the present Rector of 
 the place. 
 
 CAPEL CURIG, 
 
 (CAERNARVONSHIRE . ) 
 
 Bangor 15 Ffestiniog 20 
 
 Bedd-gelert 12 Llanberis 10 
 
 Caernarvon 17 Llanrwst 9 
 
 Cerniogau Mawr 15 Menai Bridge 17 
 
 Capel Curig is beautifully situated on the London and 
 Holyhead road : from its vicinity to Snowdon, and other 
 mountains of note in this part of the Principality, and to 
 several of the first lakes in North Wales, it has been for 
 a long time much frequented by tourists, and since the 
 diversion of the great Holyhead road through Nant- 
 Frangcon, and the erection of a spacious hotel here by 
 the late Lord Penrhyn, has become a place of fashion- 
 able resort, and during the summer season is visited by 
 families of distinction, and others, for whose accommo- 
 dation the hotel, large as it is, has been found inadequate. 
 A new line of road from this place to Caernarvon, through 
 the pass of Llanberis, at the foot of Snowdon, has lately 
 been opened, affording a more direct communication 
 with the interior of the counties of Caernarvon and 
 Merioneth. 
 
114 MOEL SIABOD DOLWYDDELAN CASTLE. 
 
 In this vale there is that variety both of wood and 
 water, which most of the other Welsh vales want to add 
 to their picturesque effect. The name of the vale is 
 derived from its chapel, dedicated to a Welsh saint called 
 Curig, situate a short distance from the Inn. He is men- 
 tioned in an old Welsh poem, which, however, only in- 
 timates his order, and nothing more is at present known 
 of him. 
 
 Capel Curig is situated in a district abounding with 
 mineral wealth. A great quantity of calamine has been 
 obtained here, and in the vicinity is found the broad 
 primitive rock called serpentine. Near a place called 
 Bryn Gwaliau, between Capel Curig and Llanrwst, 
 there are some remains of a Roman edifice, a great part 
 of which has been removed for building materials : one 
 of the apartments was found by Mr. Lysons, to be sixty 
 feet by twenty in dimensions, and another eighteen feet 
 six inches square, in which latter were several short 
 square pillars of stone, similar to those of the hypocaust 
 near the Feathers hotel, in Chester. 
 
 Behind the inn at Capel Curig westward are two lakes 
 connected by a stream, on which a boat is kept, and 
 frequently employed by visitors in aquatic excursions. 
 At the foot of the lake there is an ancient rustic bridge, 
 from which, as well as from the lake, is a fine view of 
 old Snowdon and his proud associates. — At a short 
 distance from the hotel southward, rises the mountain of 
 
 Moel Siabod, 
 whose hight is 2878 feet. It is exceedingly precipitous, 
 especially on that side towards Bettws y Coed, and the 
 summit is thickly strewed with loose fragments. From 
 this elevated station is a most magnificent view of the 
 mountains of Snowdonia, of nine different lakes, and 
 the distant sea. The distance from the inn to the summit 
 is about three miles and a half. Beneath Moel Siabod, 
 towards the east, and about five miles from Capel Curig, is 
 
 DOLWYDDELAN CASTLE, 
 
 said to have been built about the year 500. It is situated 
 on a high rock inaccessible on one side, and consists of 
 two square towers, one 40 feet by 25, the other 31 feet 
 
RHAIADR Y WENNOL.—LAKE OGWEN. 115 
 
 by 20, and a court in the middle. This old ruin, entirely 
 enclosed by mountains, built probably by some of the 
 princes of North Wales, though its original founder and 
 the time of its erection are unknown. Iorwerth Drwyn- 
 dwn made this castle his residence, and his son, Lly welyn 
 the Great, is said to have been born at this place. It 
 was a fortress of considerable importance to the Welsh, 
 but very little of it now remains. The village of Dol- 
 wyddelan stands within about a mile, which consists of 
 only a few small cottages. 
 
 Three miles and a half from Capel Curig, on the left 
 of the road towards Bettws, is the celebrated cataract of 
 
 Rhaiadr y Wennol, 
 or Spout of the Swallow. The scenery around the 
 cataract, formed by the little river Llugwy, is truly 
 grand ; the water at the top is in one body, but soon 
 becomes broken into many streams, dashing impetuously 
 over large masses of rock, which impede its progress, 
 down a rugged chasm of sixty feet wide at the broadest 
 part. The high banks of the ravine are wooded, the 
 trees hanging beautifully over the torrent, and the ground 
 is richly carpeted with mosses and various wild flowers. 
 From the upper part of the wood, near the head of the 
 fall, there is a very good view of the descending flood ; a 
 path from the high road leads to the fall, and a little 
 wicket gate has been placed in the wall on the road side, 
 for the convenience of visitors who may wish to obtain a 
 view of this remunerative scene, which, although so 
 contiguous to the road, is so obscured in the wood, that 
 the traveller will almost certainly pass it unawares, unless 
 he makes timely enquiry ; it may, however, be discovered 
 by a summer-house which has lately been built on the top 
 of a mountain directly over the fall. 
 
 About four miles from Capel Curig, on the Bangor 
 road, is situated 
 
 Lake Ogwen, 
 from whence issues the river Ogwen. This lake is well 
 stocked with excellent trout of a peculiar colour and 
 flavour, surpassing in these respects all fish found in the 
 Caernarvonshire lakes ; they are of a bright yellow cast 
 
116 NANT FRANGC0N. 
 
 in the water, though when eat they have a fine salmon 
 colour : they are easily taken with the fly. The surplus 
 water of this lake discharges itself at its western end, 
 through a chasm in the rocks, tumbling in three noble 
 cataracts down a hight of about one hundred feet, called 
 the falls of Benglog, and are concentrated into a bed in 
 the green meadows of 
 
 Nant Frangcon, 
 Or the Beaver's Hollow, so called from having been the 
 resort of those animals. This is a romantic and tremend- 
 ous glen, destitute of wood, and even of cultivation, 
 except the narrow slip of a meadow which lies along its 
 bottom. The fantastic piles of rocks which compose its 
 sides, rise abruptly from their base, and stretch their 
 barren points into the clouds. The Holyhead and Lon- 
 don road passes through the whole extent. 
 
 In 1685, part of a rock, forming one of the impending 
 cliffs, became so undermined by wind and rain, that 
 loosing its hold, it fell in several immense masses, and in 
 its passage down a steep and craggy cliff, dislodged some 
 thousands of other stones. The largest piece of the 
 falling rock continued its motion through a small meadow, 
 and rested on the further side of the river Ogwen. In 
 the winter of 1831, another part of the rock gave way, 
 when upwards of one thousand tons fell from near the 
 summit of Benglog, a little below the Ogwen cataracts ; 
 part rolling straight across the road, fell into the valley 
 and river in the bottom ; while another part having 
 acquired a less momentum, rested on the road ; the inter- 
 course of travellers was for some time impeded, although 
 one hundred miners were engaged in clearing the surface 
 of the road. A gentleman from the vale of Llanrwst 
 had just passed along in his carriage, on his way to 
 Bangor, when the terrific sound of the dissolving moun- 
 tain fell upon his astonished ear. 
 
 The mountains at the upper end of this vale form a 
 scene singularly grand ; on each side the hollow appears 
 guarded by a huge conical rock, Trivaen on the right, 
 and Braich du on the left. These, with the Glyder vach 
 and the Glyder vawr, and some other mountains fill up 
 the distance, and apparently close the vale. 
 
LLYN IDWAL CERRIG Y DRUDION. 117 
 
 Near this place, beside a little gothic cottage, is a 
 small hone quarry, Y Trivaen, which received its name 
 from three tall stones standing in an upright position on 
 its summit, and from below had the exact resemblance of 
 three men. Of these only two remain. 
 
 One mile from Ogwen lake, in a deep valley, lies a 
 dark pool, called 
 
 Llyn Idwal. 
 The gloomy horrors of the surrounding scenery exceed 
 even those of Ogwen ; the encircling cliffs are over- 
 hanging, broken, and dark, in one part the whole moun- 
 tain is rent asunder, and the chasm of Twll du or the 
 Black Cleft, gapes between the terrific masses. The 
 solitude of Cwm Idwal proved favourable to the perpe- 
 tration of a deed of blood, and it was here that young 
 Idwal, the infant heir of prince Owen Gwynedd, was 
 treacherously assassinated, by order of his foster-father 
 Nefydd, to whose care his father had consigned him. 
 
 CERIG Y DRUDION, 
 
 (DENBIGHSHIRE.) 
 
 Cerniogau 3 Pont y Glyn 4| 
 
 Corwen 10 Ruthin 15 
 
 Llanrwst 14 
 
 This is a pleasant village, so named from its being 
 supposed to have been the abode of the Druids. In 
 Camden's time it was famed for some druidical remains. 
 These ancient relics have long since been removed ; they 
 consisted of cromlechs, and kist vaens, or stone chests. 
 Here is a tolerable inn, and the village is situated at the 
 junction of several high roads. But it must be observed 
 that the old village is now in a great measure set aside, 
 on account of the great Holyhead road passing about two 
 or three hundred yards beneath it, and a new village is 
 forming there at a place called Ty'n-y-Rhyd. 
 
 At Pen Gwerwyn, a hill about a mile to the east of the 
 village, are some inconsiderable remains of a castle, of 
 which tradition says, that it once belonged to Caractacus. 
 
118 CERNIOGAU MAWR CHESTER. 
 
 We are told, that when he was routed by the Romans, he 
 retreated to this castle for safety, but was, with his 
 whole family, betrayed to the enemy, and sent prisoner 
 to Rome, where he delivered that celebrated speech 
 referred to by all our historians. 
 
 CERNIOGAU MAWR, 
 
 (DENBIGHSHIRE.) 
 
 Capel Curig.... 15 Corwen 13 
 
 Cerig y Drudion 3 Ruthin 18 
 
 Cerniogau Mawr is a hamlet of three or four small 
 houses, where is also a good inn, in an elevated situation, 
 on the London and Holyhead mail road. Five miles on 
 the road to Llanrwst is Gallt-y- Gwy, a terrace of more 
 than two miles long. To the east appears the beautiful 
 deep vale of Llanrwst, with Conway in the termination. 
 A piece of ground, about a mile from this place towards 
 Cerig-y-Drudion, is said to be so exactly situated upon 
 the summit of this part of the country, that the water 
 from its east end directs its course towards the Dee, and 
 from the west end falls into the Conway. 
 
 CHESTER. 
 
 Flint 15 London 182 
 
 Hawarden 7 Mold 12 
 
 Holywell 18 Wrexham 12 
 
 This city, though not strictly within the cognizance of 
 our work, as not being situated within the Principality ; 
 yet its proximity to the country, and especially as being 
 the point from which the Tour of Wales is usually com- 
 menced, a slight notice of it may be expected. Its ac- 
 knowledged antiquity, curious construction, and antique 
 remains, point it out as peculiarly worthy the notice of 
 the man of taste, and the antiquary. 
 
 This city was a Roman station, during the occupation 
 of Britain by that warlike people, and here was fixed the 
 residence of the famous 20th legion ; facts, which are 
 
119 
 
 indubitably authenticated by an unbroken chain of history, 
 and attested by innumerable fragments of antiquities con- 
 tinually found within its precincts. From the very form 
 of the place, it is certain that Chester was indebted to 
 the Romans for its foundation. The four principal streets, 
 Bridge -street, Northgate -street, Watergate -street, and 
 Eastgate-street, crossing each other at right angles, still 
 contain the form and appearance of a Roman camp. Its 
 British name of Caer Legion, " the Camp of the Legion," 
 and Caer Lleon Vawr ar Ddyfrdwy, i ' The Camp of the 
 great legion on the Dee," were derived from the twenti- 
 eth legion having been chiefly stationed here. 
 
 After the departure of the Romans from the island, 
 Chester appears to have been alternately possessed by the 
 British, the Saxons, and the Danes ; by the latter 
 however, it was held but a very short period, being 
 restored to the Saxons by the valiant daughter of Alfred 
 the Great, Elfleda, the wife of Ethelred, king of Mercia. 
 Immediately after the conquest, William created his 
 nephew, Hugh Lupus, Earl of Chester, and at the same 
 time invested him with supreme sovereignty thoughout 
 the county and city, so that he had as absolute a regal 
 authority within these limits, as the King himself had in 
 the rest of his dominions. In order to secure himself 
 from any encroachment either of Welsh or English, 
 Lupus repaired and strengthened the walls, and built 
 the castle. For the space of near two centuries, the local 
 monarchy was held in an entire and unbroken form by 
 six of his descendants; when in 1237, Henry III. took 
 the earldom, with all the powers annexed to it, into his 
 own hands, and it has ever since been held by the English 
 crown. The title, indeed, of Earl of Chester, was 
 conferred by Henry, upon his eldest son, afterwards 
 Edward I. and it has ever since been vested in the reign- 
 ing monarch's eldest son. 
 
 In the civil warsbetween Charles I. and the parliament, 
 Chester which, took a decided part in the royal cause, 
 suffered severely. From the commencement of the 
 unnatural conflict, the taking of the city was a prime 
 object with the parliamentarians, who continually har- 
 rassed it by keeping large forces in its immediate vicinity. 
 In the end, after a close siege of five months, it was 
 
120 
 
 surrendered by Lord Byron to Sir William Brereton, but 
 not before the garrison and inhabitants were so reduced 
 by want of provisions, as to be forced to eat their horses, 
 dogs, and other animals, for human food, 3rd February, 
 1606-7. The city has also been subject to frequent 
 visitations of the plague, which from the year 1507 to 
 1646, at different intervals, carried off several thousands 
 of its inhabitants. 
 
 The stranger will find numerous objects to gratify his 
 curiosity in this ancient place, of which the City Walls 
 will probably be the first to attract his attention. These 
 walls, raised for the purpose of hostile warfare, are now 
 become subservient only to the more noble object of 
 healthful recreation. They are the only entire specimen 
 of ancient fortification remaining in the kingdom. On 
 these walls there is an excellent walking path of about 
 two yards in width, the outer side being guarded by a 
 stone parapet of about four feet high, and the inner by 
 wooden or iron railing, so that it forms a beautiful flagged 
 promenade for two abreast, and presents a variety of 
 delightful views of the surrounding country. The whole 
 circuit is one mile three quarters and about two hundred 
 yards. 
 
 There are four main entrances into the city, at each of 
 which is a gate or gateway, by which carriages and horses 
 enter the city, and these respectively front one of the 
 cardinal points. These gates, or entrances, are formed 
 by elevated arches thrown from one side of the street to 
 the other, and over them the walk on the walls is con- 
 tinued. These walls were in most parts, especially on 
 the north and east sides, guarded by towers, so as not to 
 be beyond bow-shot of one another, in order that the 
 archers might reach the enemy who attempted to attack 
 the intervals. Many of these have been taken down 
 within the last forty years, but parts of several yet re- 
 main. There is only one which seems to retain its 
 original form, called the Phoenix Tower, fronting the 
 east, and from the top of which, the unfortunate Charles I. 
 beheld the defeat of his forces on Rowton heath, when 
 on their way to relieve the garrison of Chester, then in 
 a state of siege. 
 
 Another peculiarity to Chester is the construction of its 
 
121 
 
 Rows, by which each side of the main streets is made to 
 possess two fronts of shops. The carriages drive eight or 
 ten feet below the rows, in which are ranges of shops, 
 with a good flagged foot- way for foot passengers, from 
 end to end, where they may walk under cover. In these 
 rows, the principal tradesmen vend their wares, and they 
 are esteemed the most valuable situations for business. 
 A late traveller, noticing the peculiarity of these rows, 
 observes, ' ' their width in many places, admitting of stalls, 
 betwixt the passage and the street, gives to the stranger 
 the idea of a public road through the midst of shops. 
 It is the rows which tend principally to give an air of 
 singularity to this town ; and to see the chief business of 
 the place transacting in these covered ways, which one 
 might almost fancy had once been a middle story cut out 
 of all the houses, does appear to a stranger truly singular." 
 It should be remarked, however, that the shops under 
 the rows, and immediately fronting and level with the 
 street are very respectable, and share with their neigh- 
 bours in the business of the place. Mr. Pennant says, 
 i ' These rows appear to have been the same with the 
 ancient vestibules, and to have been a form of building 
 preserved from the time that the city was possessed by 
 the Romans. They were built before the doors, midway 
 between the streets and the houses ; and were the places 
 where dependants waited for the coming out of their pa- 
 trons." 
 
 There are several Public Buildings worthy of the 
 stranger's attention. Near the walls, on the north-west 
 side of the city, stands the Cathedral, a huge pile of 
 building, dark and shattered with age, which, though 
 not recommended by external elegance, contains some 
 curious objects of attraction, one or two of which only 
 we shall enumerate. The Bishop's throne stands on 
 what is generally denominated the shrine of St. Werburgh, 
 a large stone, richly ornamented with Gothic carvings, 
 arches and pinnacles. Around the upper part is a range 
 of little images designed to represent the kings and saints 
 of the Mercian kingdom. The altar piece is of very fine 
 tapestry, executed after one of the cartoons of Raphael, 
 and represents the history of Elymas the sorcerer. 
 Wright, in his travels through France and Italy, gives a 
 
122 CHESTER CASTLE. 
 
 decided opinion, that it is much superior to any of the 
 tapestry that he saw in the Vatican. The chapter-house, 
 a much-admired edifice, stands in the same walk as the 
 cloisters. The vestibule is arched, supported by four 
 columns, each surrounded with eight slender pilasters, 
 without capitals, which converge near the top of the 
 columns, and spread over the roof. The chapter house 
 is said to have been built in the time of Randal, the fourth 
 Earl of Chester, who died in 1128, after enjoying the 
 earldom eight years. In this spot, all the local monarchs 
 are said to have been interred. In the year 1724, when 
 digging beneath the chapter house, the remains of Hugh 
 Lupus, the first Earl, were found in a stone coffin, in 
 gilt leather, with a cross on the breast, and at the head 
 of the coffin a stone in the shape of a T. with the wolf's 
 head, in allusion to his name, engraved on it. Im- 
 mediately over his breast was a very singular covering, 
 made of paper nicely platted, so as to form most elegant 
 little squares of black and white. 
 
 The cathedral was built on the site of a nunnery founded 
 about the year 660, by Walpherus, King of Mercia, for 
 his daughter Werburgh, afterwards sainted, to whom it 
 was dedicated. The chief part of the present fabric was 
 erected during the reigns of the three last Henries ; since 
 which, the perishing nature of the stone has rendered 
 frequent repairs necessary. 
 
 Besides the cathedral, Chester contains nine parish 
 churches, and two others which are not parochial. St. 
 John's and St. Mary's may be thought worthy a personal 
 view, the former as a large and magnificent pile of Saxon 
 architecture, and the interior of the latter for several 
 magnificent tomb-stones and monuments. In Trinity 
 church lie the remains of Parnell the poet, and Matthew 
 Henry, the celebrated non-conformist and commentator, 
 of both of whom there are memorials — There are also 
 ten places of worship occupied by dissenters of various 
 persuasions, several of which are handsome edifices. 
 
 The Castle. 
 Of the ancient Castle, built by Hugh Lupus, very 
 little remains, except an old tower, called Julius Caesar's 
 tower. In the year 1786, the county adopted the reso- 
 
CHESTER CASTLE. 123 
 
 lution of pulling down the ancient edifice, for the pur- 
 pose of erecting upon its site a new county prison, shire - 
 hall, &c, upon an improved and very extensive plan, for 
 which purpose also all the old buildings in the vicinity 
 were cleared away. That great undertaking has now 
 been finished for several years, under the direction of 
 the late Thomas Harrison, Esq. the county architect — 
 And perhaps there is no similar establishment in the 
 kingdom more complete, whether regarded for outward 
 magnificence, or for its admirable internal arrangements. 
 
 The shire-hall is a truly elegant fabric of light- coloured 
 stone, the principal entrance to which is through a por- 
 tico of twelve columns in double rows, 22 feet high, and 
 3 feet l£ inches in diameter, each formed of a single 
 stone. The court-room is semi-circular, and lighted 
 from above. The county prison is behind, on a lower 
 level, from whence prisoners are brought into the dock, 
 by a flight of steps. The gaol contains five different 
 yards for the use of the prisoners, upwards of forty dis- 
 tinct rooms, and fourteen solitary cells for the con- 
 demned. The two extremities of the county-hall are 
 flanked by two uniform elegant buildings, facing each 
 other, one appropriated as barracks for the officers and 
 soldiers of the garrison, and the other was used as an 
 armoury, where generally from thirty to forty thousand 
 stand of arms, and other munitions of war, were con- 
 stantly kept. The fine spacious open area in front, is 
 inclosed by a semicircular wall, surmounted with iron 
 railings, in the centre of which is the grand entrance, of 
 Grecian Doric architecture, greatly admired for its chaste 
 construction and elegant execution. The front view is 
 magnificent. 
 
 A new armoury has been erected in the higher ward, 
 it being intended to apply the building recently used for 
 that purpose to barracks for the officers, and apartments 
 for the Judges during the assizes. The boundary wall 
 of the castle has also lately been greatly enlarged, to 
 make room for workshops for the prisoners, on which ac- 
 count it has been found necessary to divert the city walls 
 in a direction nearer to the Dee, in which is now inclosed 
 all the ground formerly known as Skinner's lane. 
 
124 new bridge, chester. 
 
 New Bridge over the Dee. 
 
 It can hardly be supposed that strangers who travel 
 within a few miles of Chester, and have either taste or 
 leisure, will pass on without visiting this stupendous 
 work of art, which is unequalled in the history of bridge- 
 building. The bridge crosses the Dee at the south-east 
 angle of the Roodee ; is approached by a new road from 
 the centre of Bridge-street, which passes by the castle 
 esplanade, proceeds across the city walls, and then by 
 an immense embankment, thrown over a deep valley, to 
 the foot of the bridge. The bridge consists of one main 
 stone arch, with a small dry arch or towing path on each 
 side, by which the land communication is preserved on 
 both sides of the river. 
 
 The great distinguishing feature of this edifice is the 
 unparalleled width of the chord or span of the main arch, 
 which is of greater extent than that of any other ever 
 known to have been constructed. Of its dimensions the 
 following is an accurate delineation : — The span of the 
 arch, two hundred feet.* Height of the arch from the 
 springing line, 40 feet. Dimensions of the main abut- 
 ments, 48 feet wide by 40, with a dry arch as a towing 
 path at each side, 20 feet wide, flanked with immense 
 wing walls, to support the embankment. The whole 
 length of the road- way, 340 feet. Width of the bridge 
 from outside the parapet walls, 35 feet 6 inches, divided 
 thus : carriage road, 24 feet ; the two causeways, 9 feet ; 
 thickness of the parapet walls, 2 feet 6 inches. Altitude 
 from the top of the parapet wall to the river at low water 
 mark, 66 feet 6 inches. The architectural plan of this 
 bridge was furnished by the late Thomas Harrison, Esq. ; 
 contractor and builder, Mr James Trubshaw, of Stafford- 
 shire ; surveyor, Mr Jesse Hartley, of Liverpool. The 
 bridge was formally opened in October, 1832, by her 
 Royal Highness the Princess Victoria, on occasion of her 
 visit, and that of her royal parent, the Duchess of Kent, 
 
 * The largest stone arch known, and that which bears the 
 nearest .approach is at Vieille Briode, which crosses the river 
 Allien, in France, whose span is 183 feet, being 17 feet less 
 than the Chester bridge. It was erected in 1454, by Grenier. 
 
EATON HALL. 125 
 
 to Eaton Hall. As an equally delicate and well-merited 
 compliment to her noble host, at the request of the com- 
 missioners, the bridge was named " Grosvenor Bridge," 
 by the young Princess. It was opened to the public in 
 December, 1833. 
 
 Our limits will not allow us to enter upon a description 
 of the rarities and antiquities with which this city abounds ; 
 we would therefore recommend the curious tourist, who 
 may spend four or five days in this engaging place to 
 great advantage, to purchase a local guide, which will 
 materially aid his enquiries. Before, however, he finally 
 quits this interesting vicinity, he will probably be in- 
 clined to visit 
 
 Eaton Hall, 
 the princely residence of the Marquis of Westminster, 
 which is seated in a beautiful park, about three miles 
 from Chester, to the left of the Wrexham and Shrews- 
 bury road. The present magnificent edifice, the designs 
 for which were furnished by Porden, was erected upon 
 the site of the old hall (a stately brick mansion, built by 
 Sir John Vanburgh, taken down in the year 1803), and 
 is probably the most splendid modern specimen of the 
 pointed Gothic in the kingdom. It consists of a large 
 centre and three stories, finished with octangular tur- 
 rets; and of two extensive wings, connected with the 
 main part of the building by lofty intermediate towers : 
 the whole enriched by buttresses, niches, and pinnacles, 
 and adorned with elaborate carving. 
 
 The principal entrance is on the western front, under 
 a lofty portico (admitting a carriage), the clustered pillars 
 of which support a beautifully groined ceiling ; from this 
 a flight of steps leads to a pair of massive bronzed doors, 
 admitting to a view of the interior of the hall, which is 
 large and lofty, with a vaulted ceiling : the branching 
 compartments terminate in a rich centre piece, from which 
 is suspended an immense lanthorn, of antique pattern, 
 that sheds its profuse light, " when day closes in," over 
 a pavement composed of the choicest marbles, and throws 
 a chaste light upon the mailed figures that occupy the 
 niches on each side of the chimney pieces ; above these 
 are two large pictures, viz. the Continence of Scipio, and 
 Masinissa and Sophonisba. 
 
126 EATON HALL. 
 
 At the end of the hall, a screen of five arches sup- 
 ports a gallery connecting the bedchambers of the north 
 and south sides of the house, which are separated by the 
 elevation of the hall ; under this gallery, two open 
 arches conduct, on one side to the great staircase, on the 
 other to the chapel, and the state bedroom is oppo- 
 site to the entrance : through a pair of massive richly 
 carved mahogany folding doors, the visitor is ushered 
 into the saloon, which forms the centre of a suite of 
 
 apartments of unequalled beauty and magnificence . 
 
 The groined and fretted ceilings of these rooms, deco- 
 rated with the endless ramifications of fanwork tracery 
 and the most beautiful varieties of Gothic foliage, bril- 
 liant in colour and rich with the herald's skill, yet 
 chastened by the direction of an exquisite taste, and 
 subdued by the propriety of the arrangement — the walls 
 hung with lutestring of delicate hue or costly Genoa vel- 
 vet, receiving and reflecting still more glowing hues as 
 the sunbeams stream through the painted glass, with 
 which the windows are profusely ornamented — the paint- 
 ings of the first-rate excellence — the chandeliers of ela- 
 borate workmanship — the gorgeous furniture correspond- 
 ing with the house — the cabinets of Mosaic ivory and 
 pearl — the golden vases sparkling in the niche — in short, 
 the whole finishing and furnishing of these apartments 
 constitute a combination of costliness and good taste 
 which may justly command the admiration of each 
 visitor. 
 
 The rooms are best seen beginning with the dining- 
 room, 50 feet long and 38 feet wide, including the bay, 
 which contains the following pictures and statues : — 
 
 The Meeting of David and Abigail Rubens. 
 
 The Judgment of Paris Peters, aftet Rubens. 
 
 Marquis & Marchioness of Westminster... J. Jackson, R. A. 
 
 The four statues in this room are — 
 
 At the upper end — Joan Lady Grosvenor, heiress of Eaton. 
 
 Sir Gilbert le Grosvenor, nephew of 
 Hugh Lupus. 
 At the lower end — Mary Davies, Lady Grosvenor. 
 
 Sir Robert le Grosvenor, the crusader. 
 
EATON HALL. 127 
 
 The ante-dining or billiard-room, in which are hung 
 West's celebrated picures of Cromwell Dissolving the 
 Long Parliament, and the Landing of Charles on the 
 
 Beach at Dover The saloon is next entered, a cube of 
 
 30 feet, the stained glass windows in which represent 
 the subjects of the statues placed in the dining-room, 
 with the addition of William the Conqueror and the 
 Bishop of Baieux. To this room succeeds the blue 
 drawing-room, of the same form and dimensions with 
 the ante dining-room, containing some exquisitely wrought 
 cabinets in ebony and pietro duro. The great drawing- 
 room completes this most perfect suite of apartments ; in 
 its decorations and furniture it presents the richest and 
 most gorgeous appearance, and vies with that to which 
 it leads, viz. the library, which is considered the most 
 beautiful room in the kingdom. The pictures in the 
 drawing-room are — 
 
 Judith with the Head of Holofernes Guercino . 
 
 Ruben showing the Bloody Garment of Joseph 
 
 to Jacob Guercino. 
 
 Antiochus and Stratonice Pietro de Cortona. 
 
 Christ and the Woman of Samaria P. Mignard. 
 
 Jacob blessing Ephraim and Manasseh West 
 
 Elijah raising the Widow's Son West. 
 
 many 
 a 
 
 From the furthest point of the library, which contains 
 lany valuable books and manuscripts, the eye commands 
 
 gallery, leading to the extremity of the house, 430 feet 
 l length ; the portraits in the corridor are — 
 
 Earl and Countess Grosvenor Picker sg ill. 
 
 General Grosvenor Hoppner. 
 
 Sir Thomas Grosvenor Sir Peter Lely. 
 
 Jane Lady Grosvenor Chamberlain. 
 
 Mr. Thomas Grosvenor Hoppner. 
 
 Mary Davies Lady Grosvenor (when a widow.) 
 
 Mrs. Levison, her daughter. 
 
 Marquis of Westminster, when at college Hoppner. 
 
 In the saloon, a pair of folding doors open to the gar- 
 den, leading from which (after passing through a vaulted 
 cloister) a flight of steps terminates in an extensive ter- 
 race, 350 feet in length, laid out in numerous Gothic 
 
128 EATON HALL ECCLESTON. 
 
 compartments, each filled with rare and beautiful flowers, 
 and surrounded with a rich balustrade, carved in the 
 Gothic style : a second flight of steps, of immense width, 
 leads to the pleasure grounds and flower garden, the ex- 
 tent of which is 42 acres, exclusive of the part (7 acres) 
 appropriated solely to culinary produce. The principal 
 ornaments of the grounds are, a Gothic conservatory and 
 temple, the latter built for the reception of a Roman 
 altar, discovered near Chester (at the junction of the 
 ancient roads to Mancunium and Mediolanum) in the year 
 1821 ; the Mosaic pavement of the temple was brought 
 from a palace of the Emperor Tiberius, in the Island of 
 Capri, by Lord Robert Grosvenor. 
 
 A light and elegant iron bridge of 150 feet span, cross- 
 ing the river Dee, which runs through a part of the 
 grounds, is likewise a real embellishment to the landscape ; 
 it is exceedingly ornamental, and was erected by Hazle- 
 dine at an expense of about £8,000 — .The stables, which 
 form a large quadrangle on the north side of the hall, 
 have been erected in a style of architecture correspondent 
 with that of the house, and are separated from it by a 
 small shrubbery. 
 
 Eccleston 
 is a beautiful little village, about two miles from Ches- 
 ter, much resorted to by the inhabitants of that city, and 
 by strangers, from its vicinity to Eaton Hall. The chief 
 object of attraction is the church, built in 1808 by the 
 Marquis of Westminster ; it is an elegant Gothic struc- 
 ture, and has been considered by men of taste as one of 
 the best specimens in the kingdom. The interior of the 
 church is chaste and elegant : in the north transept is 
 the mausoleum of the Eaton family, and opposite to it 
 their pew : over the altar is a painting of the Nativity 
 and Polidore Caravaggio. The houses in the village are 
 neat, and chiefly built in the Gothic style, to harmonize 
 with the church, and also with the mansion of its muni- 
 ficent proprietor. 
 
CHIRK AQUEDUCT. 129 
 
 CHIRK, 
 
 (DENBIGHSHIRE.) 
 
 Llangollen 7 Oswestry 5 
 
 London 171 Ruabon 6 
 
 Chirk is pleasantly situated on the northern bank of 
 the river Ceiriog, which, flowing through a small vale 
 of great beauty, here separates tjie counties of Denbigh 
 and Salop, and of course Wales and England. It is a 
 very neat and clean village, and contains some highly re- 
 spectable houses, and several substantial and well-built 
 cottages, having been greatly improved within the last 
 few year s by Mrs. Myddelton Biddulph, who, on coming 
 into possession of the Chirk Castle estates, pulled down 
 several dilapidated buildings, and erected others of mo- 
 dest and uniform appearance for her tenants, on more 
 eligible sites. The Holyhead road, on both sides of the 
 village, has been widened and altered within the last few 
 years, so as to avoid the irregularities and windings in 
 its course. There are some coal mines in this parish, 
 extensive lime works, and several large iron forges, 
 which employ a great number of hands. 
 
 The village has a good church, and in the yard are 
 several very old yew trees. The noted Dr. Saeheveral 
 was inducted to this church in 1709. The Hand inn is 
 a very good house for comfortable entertainment Popu- 
 lation, including the parish, 1598. 
 
 Chirk Aqueduct. 
 
 The Ellesmere canal enters this parish from Shrop- 
 shire, and is conveyed across the vale of Chirk and the 
 river Ceiriog by means of an aqueduct, two hundred and 
 thirty yards long, consisting of ten arches, the piers of 
 which are sixty-five feet high, and then immediately en- 
 ters a tunnel two hundred and twenty yards long. On 
 emerging from this, it proceeds on its course through the 
 parish, and then enters another tunnel, soon after which 
 it is carried over the vale of the Dee by the stupendous 
 aqueduct of Pont-y-Cyssylltau. 
 
 About one mile and a half to the west of the village, is 
 
130 chirk castle. 
 
 Chirk Castle, 
 proudly situated on an eminence, backed by the Berwyn 
 mountains; it is a venerable quadrangular embattled struc- 
 ture, defended by a low massive tower at each corner, 
 and another in the centre of the north front, where is the 
 principal entrance, under an arched gateway, guarded by 
 a portcullis, into a square area of considerable dimen- 
 sions, round which the various apartments are ranged : 
 on the east side of this area extends a low embattled 
 corrider, leading into the principal aparments, which have 
 been greatly altered, modernized, and embellished, by 
 Mrs. Biddulph, within the last few years ; but the old 
 entrance to the hall is by a flight of steps on the north 
 Side of the area. The picture gallery, at the south end 
 of which is the chapel, is 100 feet in length, by 22 in 
 width, and contains some good portraits and other paint- 
 
 in s s - 
 
 The park is extensive, and disposed with picturesque 
 effect, the inequalities of its surface, and the declivity of 
 the hill extending behind it and towards the north, having 
 afforded a favourable scope for the arrangement of the 
 trees and plantations ; and a new road leading to the castle, 
 in a winding direction through it, so as to embrace a view 
 Of much interesting scenery in the valley of Ceiriog, and 
 avoid a steep hill, has been formed of late, in lieu of that 
 which formerly led from the village. Near New Hall, 
 which is described as an old seat of the Myddeltons, re- 
 built many years ago as a farm-house, and surrounded by 
 a moat, at the entrance into the park from Llangollen 
 and Wrexham, stands a pair of iron gates, of the richest 
 and most delicate and exquisite workmanship, designed 
 and executed by a common blacksmith, which anciently 
 stood immediately in front of the castle. 
 
 The summit of the castle embraces a very wide pros- 
 pect of great beauty and magnificence, offering to the 
 naked eye on a clear day, as it is said, an uninterrupted 
 view into seventeen different counties. The river Ceiriog 
 runs on the west side of the castle, through a deep and 
 picturesque valley, remarkable in history as the scene of 
 a sanguinary conflict* in 1165, between the forces under 
 
 * This conflict is by come called the battle of Corwen, be- 
 
BRYN KINALLT CLYNNOG. 131 
 
 Henry II. and those of the Welsh under their brave 
 Prince Owen Gwynedd, when the latter obtained a deci- 
 sive victory, and compelled the Saxon monarch to seek 
 safety in a retreat to his own territories. 
 
 This fine estate has been in possession of the Myddel- 
 ton family since the beginning of the seventeenth century ; 
 the present possessor is Mrs. Myddelton Biddulph, whose 
 son, Robert Myddelton Biddulph, paternally descended 
 from the Biddulphs of Ledbury, in Herefordshire, lately 
 represented the county in parliament. 
 
 One mile below the village of Chirk is also 
 
 Bryn Kinallt, 
 the seat of Lord Dungannon. This elegant mansion was 
 enlarged and new fronted, and received its gothic appear- 
 ance some years since. It is delightfully situated on an 
 elevation, and surrounded by extensive and fine planta- 
 tions Lord Dungannon is the representative of the an- 
 cient Welsh family of the Trevors. 
 
 CLYNNOG, 
 
 (CAERNARVONSHIRE.) 
 
 Caernarvon 11 Pwllheli 11 
 
 Llanllyfni 6 
 
 This beautiful village lies on the turnpike road, and 
 about equi-distant between Caernarvon and Pwllheli. It 
 has an elegant Gothic church appearing among the trees, 
 and the mountains in the back-ground form a picturesque 
 scene at the distance of half a mile from the place. The 
 houses are half hidden by the foliage, and the tower of 
 the church rises very beautifully from among them. The 
 sea on the right forms an essential part of the view. Here 
 are two good inns, where civility and comfort may be 
 purchased at reasonable prices. 
 
 St. Beuno, the reputed uncle of St. Winefred, erected 
 the church, and a grand mausoleum, now called St. Beu- 
 
 ing evidently a mistake arising from the confusion of that 
 name with Crogen, the original name of Chirk Castle. 
 
132 CLYNN0G CONWAY, 
 
 no's chapel, which communicates with the church through 
 a dark vaulted passage of six yards. In this chapel, the 
 remains of the saint, who lived in the seventh century, 
 were deposited, and here also was his saintly niece in- 
 terred, where her effigy in stone yet remains, mutilated, 
 like an Egyptian mummy. 
 
 About a hundred yards from the church, adjoining the 
 turnpike road, is St. Beuno's well, eight feet square, in- 
 closed by a wall eight feet high. This well was much 
 famed for healing the sick, and particularly for curing the 
 rickets in children. Within the last fifty years, however, 
 the well has lost its sanctity, or the people their credulity. 
 
 In the south-east corner of the church, near the altar 
 table, there is an old wooden chest, belted with iron, 
 and fastened to the floor, called " Cyff Beuno," Beuno's 
 Chest. This has a slit in the corner, to receive the of- 
 ferings of money from the devotees of the saint. If a 
 person was affected with any disorder, he made his offer- 
 ing into this chest, and having sat down on Beuno's grave, 
 and addressed his prayers to the saint, he expected imme- 
 diate relief. This custom was continued till within late 
 years. 
 
 Hhaiadr Dibyn Mawr, is a waterfall distant about two 
 miles from Clynnog, in the mountains. 
 
 CONWAY, 
 
 (CAERNARVONSHIRE.) 
 
 Aber 9 Llanddulas 9 
 
 Abergele llj Llanrwst 12 
 
 Bangor 14£ London 236 
 
 Caernarvon 24 Penmaen Mawr 6 
 
 This place is much improved since the erection of the 
 suspension bridge ; and from its beautiful and picturesque 
 site, as well as its affording perhaps the most perfect 
 specimen of a Saracen town that now remains in Great 
 Britain, merits the attention of the traveller, and will 
 well repay his patient investigation. On approaching the 
 town over the bridge, from the eastern bank of the river, 
 the majestic towers of the old castle present an imposing 
 
CONWAY. 133 
 
 front, and remind one of the station of Gray for his bard : 
 
 On a rock, whose haughty brow 
 Frown'd o'er old Conway's foaming flood, 
 
 Rob'd in a sable garb of woe, 
 
 With haggard eyes, the poet stood. 
 
 The river Conway runs on the east side of the town, 
 and is somewhat more than half a mile over at high 
 
 water This river was formerly noted for being a pearl 
 
 fishery. The British and Irish pearls are found in a shell 
 fish, called by Linnaeus, myd margaritefera, the pearl 
 muscle, peculiar to stony and rapid rivers. This pearl 
 fishery is still carried on, and affords employment to 
 many poor families : the purpose to which the pearls are 
 appropriated is not known to the neighbourhood, the 
 parties, who carry on the fishery, conveying them imme- 
 diately to London in their rough state. 
 
 The port is a dry harbour, frequented by a few coast- 
 ing vessels ; and the river is navigable up to the village 
 of Trefriw, which is about twelve miles from its mouth. 
 
 A quay extends along the east side of the town wall 
 
 The principal inns are the Castle and the Newborough 
 arms ; the market is held on Friday. Population, 1245. 
 
 The church is a spacious structure, bearing marks of 
 considerable antiquity ; it contains some old monuments, 
 among which is a rude figure, cut in stone, to preserve 
 the memory of Mary, mother of Archbishop Williams, 
 who died Oct. 10, 1563 ; and a singular epitaph on Mr. 
 Hookes proves the remarkable fecundity of the family, a 
 copy of which is as follows : — Here lyith ye body of 
 Nichs. Hookes, of Conway, gent, who was the 41 child 
 of his father William Hookes, Esq. by Alice his wife, 
 and the father of twenty-seven children, who dyed ye 
 20th day of March, 1673." There is an ancient font of 
 black marble, curiously carved, and supported on a kind 
 of clustered pilasters, standing on a pedestal. Here, also, 
 was formerly a Cistercian abbey, founded by Prince 
 Llywelyn ap Jorwerth in 1185, but the remains are 
 scarcely visible. 
 
 In the principal street, there is a large pile of build- 
 ing, called " Plas Mawr," The Great Mansion. This 
 
134 CONWAY. 
 
 appears to have been erected more than two centuries 
 ago, by Robert Wynne, Esq. of Gwydir. The apart- 
 ments are ornamented in a niche style, with uncouth 
 figures, interspersed with numerous coats of arms ; the 
 house is now the property of the Hon. Lloyd Mostyn, 
 having passed to him through the Wynne's of Bodys- 
 gallan. 
 
 The town is nearly triangular, surrounded by hand- 
 some lofty walls, belonging to the castle, nearly one 
 mile in circumference, defended by 24 round towers, and 
 had four gates. The base of the triangle runs along the 
 river, at the farthest angle of which, upon the verge of 
 a perpendicular slate rock, stands its magnificent castle. 
 It has been conjectured by some, that the present Con- 
 way was the Conovium of the Romans ; others say, that 
 Caer Khun, five miles higher up the river, on the same 
 side, was the site of Conovium. Its architecture and 
 position are truly grand. From each end of the town 
 walls, a curtain, terminated by a round tower, ran to 
 some distance into the water, with a design to impede 
 the approach of an enemy. The castle was defended by 
 eight large round towers, flanking the sides and ends, 
 from each of which issued a slender turret, rising much 
 above, constructed for commanding an extensive prospect 
 over the adjacent country. Of these turrets, four only 
 remain. The walls are embattled, and from twelve to 
 fifteen feet in thickness, and nearly entire, except one of 
 the middle towers on the south side, the lower part of 
 which has -fallen down the rock. This was occasioned 
 by some of the inhabitants taking away stones from the 
 foundation for their own use. The upper part of the 
 tower is entire, suspended at a vast height above, and pro- 
 jecting nearly thirty feet over the walls below, exhibiting 
 in the breach vast strength of walling. The principal 
 entrance into the castle is at the N. w. end, formerly over 
 a deep ditch and draw-bridge. The hall is at present the 
 most remarkable apartment. Its dimensions are 130 feet 
 long, 30 broad, and about 20 high. It was lighted by 
 nine windows, six of which were towards the river, and 
 three towards the court. The roof was supported by 
 eight Gothic arches. 
 
 This castle was erected in 1283, by Edward I. who at 
 
CONWAY. 135 
 
 the same time built the walls of the town, and repaired 
 several of the other castles in Wales, in order to guard 
 against the insurrections of Llywelyn, which for some 
 years before had been frequent. From this period it was 
 held by the English. In the civil wars, it was garrisoned 
 by Archbishop Williams for the King, but it was ulti- 
 mately surrendered to General Mytton, for the parliament, 
 though it escaped that general dismantlement to which 
 most other fortresses had been subject. After the re- 
 storation, the fortress was granted by the King to 
 Edward, Earl of Conway, and is now in the possession 
 of the Marquis of Hertford, who assumed the name of 
 Conway, in addition to that of Seymour, according to 
 the will of the last Earl of Conway. In 1665, all the 
 iron, timber, and lead, was taken from the Castle, and 
 transported to Ireland, under the pretence of using it 
 there in his majesty's service. Several principal gentle- 
 men of the county opposed the design, but their remon- 
 strances were over-ruled, and this noble pile was reduced 
 
 nearly to its present condition The visitor may ascend 
 
 to the walk on the top of the castle, from whence he 
 will obtain a delightful view of the surrounding country, 
 including the suspension bridge, &c. 
 
 The best point for viewing this interesting ruin, will 
 be found three or four hundred yards higher up the river, 
 on the hill on the same side. From this spot a gentle- 
 man, who had just returned from travelling in Syria, 
 was much struck with the remarkable resemblance the 
 
 town of Conway has to the cities in Palestine There 
 
 being no suburbs, and the walls naked to the view of 
 the surrounding country, is a circumstance perhaps no 
 where else to be found in this country ; and the Sara- 
 cenic character, strictly preserved in their construction, 
 which took place when our monarchs had recently been 
 occupied in the Holy land, renders the walls and castle 
 peculiarly interesting. 
 
 Of eminent men, natives of Conway, the only one 
 whose name is recorded is Archbishop Williams, who 
 succeeded the illustrious Lord Bacon in the custody of 
 the Great Seals, having them delivered to him by King 
 
 James, a, d. 1621 He died at Gloddaeth in the year 
 
 1650. 
 
136 
 
 Among the recent improvements which have taken 
 place in the immediate vicinity of the town, on the line 
 of the great Holyhead-road, and in which a vast sum 
 has been expended by government, the principal is the 
 construction of a suspension bridge, over the river Con- 
 way, in lieu of the ancient ferry, which was commenced 
 on the 3rd of April, 1822, and completed on the 1st of 
 July, 1826. This was an improvement loudly called for : 
 independent of the delays occasioned by the variation of 
 the tides, and the impositions practised by the ferry-men, 
 the danger was great in crossing so rapid a river, which 
 at high water was nearly a mile across. On Christmas- 
 day, 1806, owing to a heavy swell, the boat conveying 
 the Chester and Irish mail, with eight passengers, the 
 coachman, guard, and a youth about the age of fifteen, 
 in all fifteen in number, including the boatmen, was up- 
 set, and only two persons saved. This fatal accident had 
 probably some influence in accelerating this immense un- 
 dertaking. The chains are fastened, on the east side of 
 the river, in a solid rock, which, before the construction 
 of the bridge, was insulated, and on the west side, after 
 passing under the walls of the castle to a distance of 54 
 feet, are securely bolted into the rock on which that 
 fortress is built. 
 
 From the eastern extremity an embankment, 671 yards 
 in length, and 30 feet in breadth at the top, has been 
 raised on the sands, between the island and the shore ; 
 and from the western extremity a road has been cut 
 through the solid rock, under the north-east side of the 
 castle, to the distance of 175 yards, to unite with Castle- 
 street ; thus making the whole extent of the bridge, with 
 its approaches, more than 900 yards. On this road, a 
 very handsome lodge of two towers, corresponding in de- 
 sign with the venerable remains of the castle, has been 
 erected, forming an elegant arched entrance from the 
 town to the bridge, through a pair of massive iron gates 
 of noble appearance ; and on the rock on the eastern side ; 
 a very pretty lodge has been built for the bridge surveyor, 
 the stone for the whole having been procured from the 
 neighbouring quarries. The length of the bridge, be- 
 tween the centre of the supporting towers, is 327 feet, 
 its height above high water mark 18 feet, and the height 
 
CONWAY CREIDDIN. 137 
 
 of the pillars, over which the chains pass, 42 feet from 
 the platform. The principal chains from which the road- 
 way is suspended, are eight in number, and are formed 
 of links, each consisting of five bars of iron, three 
 inches and a half wide, and one inch thick. Connected 
 with the suspension bridge, a very important improve- 
 ment has been effected in the road leading from the town 
 through the north-west wall, where a noble gate-way 
 has been erected, and proceeding round the immense 
 mountain of Penmaen Bach, along the northern precipi- 
 tous declivity of which it is carried by an excavation in 
 the solid rock, in some places eighty feet high, and ex- 
 tending more than a mile in length. The new line of 
 road is more than four miles and a half in length, from 
 Conway to Bryn Mor, where it joins the old road, by 
 
 which the precipitous descent of Sychnant is avoided 
 
 This undertaking, which is one of the most extensive 
 and important in this part of the kingdom, was com- 
 pleted under the direction of Mr. Telford. A new line 
 of road has also been projected, to the north-west of the 
 castle, from this town to Llanrvvst, and a bridge has been 
 built over the river Gyffin. 
 
 Conway is a creek to the port of Beaumaris ; but not- 
 withstanding the natural advantages of its situation, and 
 the important improvements in its immediate vicinity, 
 there is neither any trade of importance, nor any manu- 
 facture carried on in the town. Before taking leave of 
 this place, we cannot but suggest what an addition to its 
 cheerfulness and health would be afforded by enlarging, 
 or removing altogether, the archway at the bottom of 
 High-street, leading to the Quay. — In the present age, a 
 hint of this kind will, it is hoped, be considered in a 
 friendly spirit, by whomsoever the power of thus con- 
 tributing to the comfort of the town belongs. 
 
 From Conway, Mr. Bingley made an excursion round 
 
 Creiddin, 
 a commot or hundred of Caernarvonshire, situated upon 
 the side of the river opposite to Conway, and forming a 
 considerable promontory into the Irish sea. After cross- 
 ing the river, and proceeding along the shore for about 
 half a mile, the first object of attraction is 
 
138 DIGANWY. 
 
 DlGANWY, 
 
 or Dinas Gonwy, or the fort on the Conway, called by 
 the common people, " Y Faer dre," and by the English, 
 Gannoc. The ruins of the ancient castle are situated on 
 the summit of two small hills, near the shore. At a 
 short distance is a circular watch-tower, said to have been 
 built some time in the latter part of the 17th century. 
 
 Mr. Bingley next crossed the flat, and under the s. w. 
 side of Llandudno rock, passed the shell of a large man- 
 sion, which some centuries ago was a palace belonging to 
 the Bishop of Bangor ; thence along the steep and slip- 
 pery sides of the elevated down of Llandudno, for about 
 two miles, to the end of the promontory. Here the 
 rocks are for the most part perpendicular, of amazing 
 height. The rocks and neighbourhood contain many rare 
 plants. About a mile from the n. e. side of the pro- 
 montory is Llandudno church ; and at a short distance 
 is Eglwys Rhos, celebrated as the refuge of Maelgwn 
 Gwynedd, who superstitiously fled hither to avoid the 
 vdd velen, or yellow fever, which raged over a great part 
 of Europe, where he died. 
 
 Not far distant is Gloddaeth, a seat of Lady Mostyn 
 Champneys, built by her ancestor, Sir Roger Mostyn, 
 Bart, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. The walks of 
 Gloddaeth may justly vie with any thing similar in the 
 three kingdoms : those on the declivity are directed by 
 the flexure of the hill, and those on the plain are straight, 
 diverging from a centre, in which is placed a statue of 
 Minerva. The house is famed for its library of ancient 
 manuscripts, chiefly Welsh. At the distance of a mile, 
 is Bodysgallen, also a seat of the same family. It is 
 a place of great antiquity ; the situation is commanding, 
 and finely shaded by venerable woods. 
 
 Another excursion made by Mr. Bingley, was up the 
 vale of Conway, leading on the road to Llanrwst. 
 Having passed the village of Gymn, he found the vale 
 of Conway to afford many very interesting prospects. 
 Caer Rhun, the fort of Rhun, lies at the distance of 
 five miles. It is a charming little village, on the western 
 bank of the river, surrounded with wood. To this site 
 has generally been assigned, the ancient Roman Conovium, 
 
CORWEN. 139 
 
 In the summer of 1801, the late Rev. H. D. Griffith had 
 many apartments cleared, where was discovered several 
 broken vases, dishes, &c. From the road, near the 
 bridge, called Pont Porthlwyd, about eight miles from 
 Conway, high up the mountain, on the left, is a water- 
 fall of very considerable height, called in the neighbour- 
 hood, Rhaiadr Mawr, the great waterfall. Mr. Bingley 
 ascended along a winding path, which conducted him to 
 the bed of the river, near the station from whence he saw 
 it to the best advantage. The water runs from a pool 
 among the mountains above, called Llyn Eigiau. He 
 pronounces this waterfall the most grand and picturesque 
 of any he had seen in North Wales. 
 
 [For angling station, see LlanrwstJ\ 
 
 CORWEN, 
 
 (MERIONETHSHIRE .) 
 
 Bala i 12 Llangollen 10 
 
 Chester 33 London 193 
 
 Holyhead 67 Ruthin 12 
 
 Corwen, (the White Choir) is a small market town on 
 the London and Holyhead road, situated at the foot of 
 the Berwyn mountains, on the bank of the Dee. The 
 population, 1950, principally employed in agriculture. 
 There is a good inn here, adorned with the gigantic fea- 
 tures of Owen Glyndwr, the renowned and formidable 
 opponent of Henry IV. The market is held on Tuesday 
 and Friday. 
 
 Within the church, under an arch on the north side of 
 the altar, there is a very ancient coffin lid, in high pre- 
 servation, bearing the following inscription, " Hie jacet 
 Jorwerth Sulien, vicarius de Corvaen ora pro eo." There 
 is also a fine cross fixed in a circular stone to the west of 
 the steeple ; and I suspect, says a learned friend, that 
 the name of Corwen, corrupted from Corvaen, is derived 
 from the cross : cor, signifying a circle, and maen, which 
 is changed into vaen when joined with cor, is The stone 
 or Cross in the Circle. The Rev. Morgan Hughes is 
 the present vicar. 
 
140 COR WEN. 
 
 The house of the celebrated Owen Glyndwr was cer- 
 tainly situated in this parish, hut not a vestige of it is 
 now left : the site is marked by a clump of fir trees, on 
 the left of the Llangollen road, about three miles from 
 Corwen. However, at Rhug, -within a mile and a half of 
 the town, the elegant seat of Colonel Vaughan, the true 
 hospitality of Owen is kept up in the real ancient Welsh 
 style. Rhagatt, the mansion of Edward Lloyd, Esq. 
 stands in the parish, and within two miles of the town. 
 
 The roads in this district are excellent; the Shrewsbury 
 and Holyhead mail runs through the town. There are 
 also two good lines of road from hence to Bala ; the one 
 by Llandrillo leads through the vale of Edeyrnion, which 
 is the most beautiful in Wales, the road very excellent, 
 with scarcely a hill in its course ; the other by the Druid, * 
 12 miles, commands a very fine view of Bala lake, and 
 the surrounding hills. There is likewise a very good 
 road, 12 miles, to Ruthin. 
 
 Upon the Berwyn mountains, behind the church, is a 
 place called Glyndwr's Seat, from whence is a most 
 charming prospect. The rich and delightful vale of 
 Corwen expands to view, with the Dee in the centre. 
 Here Glyndwr might view nearly forty square miles of 
 his own land. 
 
 While Mr. Hutton was at Corwen, he paid a visit to 
 Rhug, the seat of Col. Vaughan. Here he lt saw a dag- 
 ger, knife, and fork, all in one sheath, but each had a 
 distinct compartment, richly ornamented with silver, 
 which Glyndwr usually carried. The knife and fork are 
 rather slender. The dagger is 17 inches long, 12 of 
 which constitutes the blade, which tapers to a point. At 
 the end of the handle is his arms, consisting of a lion 
 rampant, and three fleurs de lis, curiously engraved. 
 The principal part of the handle is inlaid with black and 
 yellow wood, banded with silver ; and the shield at the 
 
 * The Druid is a respectable inn, situated about two miles 
 above Corwen; and from the circumstance of its having the 
 sign of an ancient Druid, the original name of the place, by 
 an unfortunate alliteration, has been obscured, viz. Dwyryd 
 (the two fords), by which name the inhabitants invariably 
 call it to this day. 
 
CORWEN. — CRICAETH. 141 
 
 top of the blade, of the same metal, curiously wrought, 
 but not much larger in circumference than a crown piece. 
 The knife and fork must necessarily be sheathed first, 
 which the shield covers, consequently the dagger must 
 be drawn first. 
 
 The tourist remaining at Corwen, who has any relish 
 for angling, and would prefer a few hours amusement 
 that way to the dull monotony of a country hotel, may 
 readily obtain all the necessary tackle in the town, at a 
 low charge, and will find good fishing between Corwen 
 and Llan St. Ffraid bridges, two or three miles, and Llan- 
 drillo, about five miles from Corwen. 
 
 CRICAETH, 
 
 (CAERNARVONSHIRE.) 
 
 Bedd-gelert 11 London 240 
 
 Caernarvon 20 Pwllheli 8 
 
 Cricaeth, a little borough town, contributary to Caer- 
 narvon, with 648 inhabitants, is very irregularly built 
 
 Except the remains of its small castle, it contains nothing 
 which can claim the attention of the traveller. This is 
 situated on a rising ground, at the end of a long neck of 
 land, jutting into the sea. The entrance into it is be- 
 tween two round towers, which are square within, and 
 appear to have been the only circular towers it had ; the 
 others are all square. Edward I. is said to have founded 
 this castle. 
 
 The church, dedicated to St. Catherine, is a spacious 
 structure, partly in the later style of English architecture, 
 but is in a very neglected state. There are places of 
 worship for Baptists, Independents, Calvinists, and Wes- 
 leyan Methodists. The White Lion presents itself as a 
 house of entertainment for weary travellers. 
 
 From the eminence on which the castle stands, is an 
 elegant view across Cardigan bay towards Harlech, where 
 is seen its fine old castle, backed by the high and distant 
 mountains of Merionethshire. 
 
142 DENBIGH. 
 
 DENBIGH, 
 
 (DENBIGHSHIRE.) 
 
 Abergele 13 London by Chester... 214 
 
 Chester 28 by Shrewsbury 206 
 
 Conway 25 Mold 16 
 
 Corwen 20 Ruthin 8 
 
 Holywell 14 St. Asaph 6 
 
 Llanrwst 22 
 
 Denbigh is the capital of the county, situated on the 
 declivity of a craggy hill, in the Vale of Clwyd. This 
 place was originally named by the Welsh Castell Caled- 
 Vryn-yn-Rhds, The Castle on the Craggy Hill in Rhos, 
 from the prominent situation of the castle in the ancient 
 territory of that name. By the parliamentary returns of 
 1831, the population was 3786. The two principal inns, 
 which are both very respectable, are the Bull and the 
 Crown. Denbigh was formerly accounted a place of 
 great importance, while its castle and walls were entire ; 
 and, about the middle of the sixteenth century, it was 
 thus celebrated by Churchyard, the poet, in his " Wor- 
 thies of Wales :" — 
 
 Denbigh, now appeare, thy turne is next, 
 I need no gloss, nor shade, to set thee out ; 
 
 For if my pen doe follow playnest text, 
 
 And passe right way, and goe nothing about, 
 
 Thou shalt be knowne, as worthie well thou art, 
 
 The noblest soyle that is in any part ; 
 
 And for thy seate, and castle do compare, 
 
 With any one of Wales, whate'er they are. 
 
 The town is picturesquely situated on the sides of a 
 steep hill, and the noble ruins of the castle on its summit, 
 greatly contribute to its venerable appearance. At a dis- 
 tance it presents an interesting aspect which, however, 
 is not entirely sustained on entering the town. It con- 
 sists of three principal, and several smaller streets and 
 lanes, and is well paved and lighted, but only scantily 
 supplied with water, which is brought from several 
 
DENBIGH. 143 
 
 springs, each at some distance from the more respectable 
 portions of the town. This inconvenience is much in- 
 creased during a continuance of dry weather, at which 
 time the wells occasionally become exhausted, excepting 
 that termed the Goblin Well, and situated at the foot of 
 the hill on which the castle is built; this is so copious as to 
 supply a considerable portion of the town, but the labour 
 of carrying the water up the steep ascent is very great. 
 Connected with this spring is a cold bath. The environs 
 abound with beautiful and richly varied scenery. The 
 land in the vicinity is rich, and in a high state of culti- 
 vation ; and in the neighbourhood are numerous splendid 
 seats and elegant villas, inhabited by opulent families, 
 whom the advantages of its situation have induced to 
 select Denbigh for their residence. 
 
 The ancient parochial church, dedicated to St. Mar- 
 cellus, and now in a very dilapidated condition, is situated 
 in the open valley, at Whitchurch, about a mile from the 
 town, from which place the rectory was transferred by 
 act of parliament to Denbigh, which was made the head 
 of the parish. In the porch of this church are two mo- 
 numental effigies, in brass, and in a kneeling posture, of 
 Richard Myddelton, * of Gwaunynog, Governor of Den- 
 bigh Castle, in the reigns of Edward VI., Mary, and 
 Elizabeth, and of his wife Jane, both of whom were here 
 interred. In the body of the building, there is an ill- 
 executed mural monument to the memory of the learned 
 Welsh antiquary, Humphrey Llwyd, of Foxhall, near 
 Denbigh, who is represented kneeling beneath a range of 
 small arches, and in Spanish costume. There is also a 
 large altar-tomb to the memory of Sir John Salusbury 
 and his lady, the former of whom died in 1578. A neat 
 mural monument in the western wall has been erected, 
 by the Gwyneddigion Society in London, to the memory 
 of Thomas Edwards, of Nant, commonly called Twm 
 o'r Nant, the celebrated Cambrian Shakespeare, who 
 died on the 3rd of April, 1810, at the age of 71, and 
 was interred in the churchyard. 
 
 All parochial duties are now performed at the chapel of 
 
 * Richard Myddelton was the father of Sir Hugh Myddel- 
 ton, who brought the new river to London. 
 
144 DENBIGH CASTLE. 
 
 St. Hilary, within the walls of the castle, with the ex- 
 ception of funerals, which still take place at Whitchurch, 
 there being no cemetry attached to the former. There 
 are places of worship for Baptists, Independents, Calvin - 
 ists, and Wesleyan Methodists. The town also contains 
 a free grammar school, for twenty boys ; a blue-coat 
 charity school, on the foundation of which are twenty- 
 four boys ; a national school, in which eighty-six boys 
 and one hundred girls are educated. 
 
 Denbigh has a good town -hall, and a prosperous dis- 
 pensary, instituted in 1807; supports a reading room, 
 and a Welsh literary society. Its chief manufactures are 
 gloves and shoes ; the market is held on Wednesday and 
 Saturday. The government of the town is vested in two 
 aldermen, a recorder, two bailiffs, who are also sheriffs, 
 two coroners, twenty-five common-councilmen, assisted 
 by a town clerk, and other officers. 
 
 The Castle 
 is situated on the summit of the Caled-Vryn, an isolated 
 lime-stone rock, rising abruptly to the height of two 
 hundred and forty feet from the western boundary of the 
 Vale of Clwyd, and incloses an area of considerable ex- 
 tent ; the principal entrance is on the north, under a lofty 
 and magnificent arch, which is nearly entire, and flanked 
 by two large towers, now in ruins ; above it is a niche, 
 in which is a robed figure of the founder, Henry Lacy, 
 Earl of Lincoln, in a sitting posture ; the whole of the 
 rooms and towers are in a state of the utmost dilapida- 
 tion. The citadel is surrounded with walls, a mile and a 
 quarter in circumference, which inclose the whole of the 
 ancient town : the principal entrance is on the north- 
 west, and is defended by two majestic towers, which are 
 nearly entire ; from these the walls extend round the 
 brow of the hill, on the most elevated and precipitous 
 parts of which, numerous lofty towers have been erect- 
 ed, forming together one of the strongest bulwarks in 
 the kingdom. Within these walls are the ruins of the 
 church or chapel, founded by the Earl of Leicester, and 
 the chapel of St. Hilary, formerly appropriated to the 
 use of the garrison, and now the parochial church. 
 The walls inclose a considerable area, now covered 
 
DENBIGH CASTLE GWAUNYNOG. 145 
 
 with grass, in which horses and cattle are depastured 
 
 Within the wa]ls of the fortress are numerous cottages, 
 which materially diminish the interest commonly excited 
 by such extensive ruins ; and on the south-west front of 
 the castle, and on the boundary wall on this side, are an 
 extensive terrace and bowling-green, commanding one of 
 the richest and most delightful views of the fertile Vale 
 of Clwyd, embracing the whole of the eastern portion 
 of this beautiful and finely varied tract, and terminated 
 by the ocean at Llandudno bay, and on the south by the 
 whole range of the Clwydian mountains, with their nu- 
 merous camps and tumuli. On this delightful spot, the 
 grand congress of bards and minstrels, called the Grand 
 Eisteddfod, was held on the 16th, 17th, and two follow- 
 ing days of September, 1828, which was honoured by 
 the presence of his Royal Highness the Duke of Sussex, 
 and most of the nobility and gentry of the surrounding 
 country. The bowling-green, in the midst of the ruins, 
 is well worth a visit ; it is laid out with considerable 
 taste. No one should visit Denbigh without seeing this 
 green . 
 
 Within two miles of Denbigh is 
 
 Gwaunynog, 
 which was visited by Dr. Johnson, during his residence 
 with Mrs. Piozzi : the estate was at that time in the pos- 
 session of his friend the Rev. Dr. Myddelton. In the 
 hall is still retained an easy chair, in which Dr. Johnson 
 was accustomed to sit. On the grounds, a short distance 
 from the house, in a very retired situation, overhung with 
 trees, is a monument to his memory, bearing the follow- 
 ing inscription . — 
 
 Samuel Johnson, L. L. D. 
 
 Obiit 13 die Decembris, 
 
 Anno Domini 1784, 
 
 .ZEtatis 75. 
 
 And on the other side, on a marble tablet — " This spot 
 was often dignified by the presence of Samuel Johnson, 
 L.L.D. whose moral writings, exactly conformable to 
 the precepts of Christianity, give ardour to virtue, and 
 
146 GWAUNYNOG DINAS MOWDDWY. 
 
 confidence to truth." Over the door of a cottage on the 
 estate are the following lines, the composition of the 
 learned Doctor : — 
 
 Around this peaceful cot, his humble shed, 
 If health, if confidence, if virtue tread, 
 Though no proud column grace the gaudy door, 
 Where sculptur'd elegance parades it o'er : 
 Nor pomp without, nor pageantry within, 
 Nor splendid show, nor ornament is seen ; 
 The swain shall look with pity on the great, 
 Nor barter quiet for a king's estate. 
 1768. 
 
 DINAS MOWDDWY, 
 
 (MERIONETHSHIRE.) 
 
 Bala 18 Machynlleth 13£ 
 
 Dolgellau 10 Mallwyd 1± 
 
 Llangollen 23 
 
 Dinas Mowddwy is an inconsiderable town, pleasantly 
 situated on the shelf of a rock, called Craig -y-D dinas y 
 near the margin of the small river Cerrist, at its conflux 
 with the Dovey, and on the road from Dolgellau to 
 Mallwyd, at the junction of three vales, each of which 
 is inclosed by lofty mountains : it consists chiefly of one 
 street of meanly built houses. The principal building is 
 the "Plas," or mansion, being the manor house of the 
 lordship of Mowddwy, which from an early period be- 
 longed to the Myttons of Halston, but was lately pur- 
 chased by a Mr. Bird, of Birmingham. 
 
 There are two or three tolerable inns here ; a market on 
 Saturday, and many fairs in the course of the year, where 
 
 considerable business is transacted in cattle, sheep, &c 
 
 Slates, of an inferior quality, are dug from the adjacent 
 rocks, which serve the neighbouring country. 
 
DISERTH DOLGELLAU. 147 
 
 DISERTH, 
 
 (FLINTSHIRE.) 
 
 Holywell .. 9 St. Asaph 5 
 
 Rhuddlan 2§ 
 
 The church of this village stands in a romantic bottom, 
 overshadowed with several large yews. There are some 
 good paintings in the south window, and in the chancel 
 is inscribed, " Sir John Conway, 1636." The yard con- 
 tains some singular tomb-stones ; two in particular have 
 a semi-circular stone upon their tops : also an ancient 
 cross, adorned with wreaths, and another with some 
 traces of a human figure, now placed as a stile. 
 
 The castle, called sometimes Gerri Castle, or Castell 
 y Graig, stands on the summit of a high lime-stone rock, 
 at the distance of half a mile from the village ; its remains 
 are trifling, consisting of a few shattered fragments only. 
 In a field a little to the south, is a ruinous building, 
 called Siamber Wen, the White Hall, said to have been 
 the house of Sir — Pounderling, a valiant knight, who 
 was constable of the castle, and whose tomb is still to 
 be seen in Dinmeirchion church. Cwm church, about 
 a mile distant, is surrounded with hills, and fronts the 
 Vale of Clwyd. 
 
 From the top of one of the hills which surround the 
 village, issues a water, forming a beautiful cascade, 
 which rises from a small well, called Fynnon-Asa, or St. 
 Asaph's Well, in a dingle in Cwm parish. The height 
 of the cascade is 17 yards, concealed between two arches 
 of the rock, behind which it has worn a passage. 
 
 DOLGELLAU, 
 
 (MERIONETHSHIRE.) 
 
 Bala 18 Machynlleth 16 
 
 Barmouth 10 Maen-Twrog 18 
 
 Chester 57 Towyn 16 
 
 London 212 
 
 Dolgellau, the Dale of the Hazel, is the principal 
 
148 DOLGELLAU-. 
 
 market town in Merionethshire, where the assizes are 
 held alternately with Bala. It is situated in a wide and 
 fertile vale, upon the river Mawddach, over which is 
 a stone bridge of seven arches, erected in 1638, but 
 thoroughly repaired and enlarged some years ago. The 
 town is surrounded on all sides by high, and in many 
 parts, wooded mountains. 
 
 There are many well built houses in various parts of 
 the town, including a good range, fronted by shops, 
 called Eldon Row, the property of Sir Robert Vaughan ; 
 but in general the houses are erected with such extreme 
 irregularity in regard to each other, as to convey but a 
 mean idea of the projector's good taste. The principal 
 building is the county hall, situated near the river Wnion, 
 pronounced oonion : it is a neat stone edifice, erected in 
 1825, at an expense of £3000. The court room is hand- 
 somely fitted up with necessary accommodations for the 
 officers of justice. In the hall is a splendid portrait of 
 Sir R. W. Vaughan, Bart, painted by Sir M. A. Shee, 
 P. R. A. 
 
 The county gaol, situated at the outskirts of the town, 
 is a semi-circular edifice of stone, built in 1811, at an 
 expense of nearly £5000 ; it includes also the house of 
 correction, and comprises three day rooms, and four air- 
 ing yards, and will admit of a classification of the pri- 
 soners into five divisions. Part of the building in which 
 a parliament was held by Owen Glyndwr, is still standing 
 among a group of old houses, having the post-office in 
 front, near the Ship inn, and is called Cwrt Plas yn y 
 Drev, " the town hall court." 
 
 The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is a neat structure 
 built of lime -stone, in the Grecian style of architecture, 
 having a handsome tower and large nave ; the seats 
 are constructed of forms or benches, and the floor is 
 paved with lime-stone flags. There is an ancient mo- 
 nument of an armed knight ; he is represented as clad in 
 close mail, wearing a helmet and neck guard, with a 
 sword in his hand and a dog at his feet, and a lion pas- 
 sant gardant on his shield, on which is inscribed, " Hie 
 jacet Mauric filius Ynyr Vychan." — There is also a hand- 
 some monument lately erected to the memory of Baron 
 Richards, who was a native of this parish. 
 
DOLGELLAU. — RHAIADR DU. 149 
 
 This place has long been noted for the manufacture of 
 coarse woollen cloth or flannel, called webs, in which a 
 considerable number of persons are at present employed. 
 There are several good inns, the Golden Lion, the Angel, 
 and the Ship, at all of which guides may be obtained to 
 Cader Idris and the waterfalls. 
 
 The town is seen to the greatest advantage at the 
 distance of about two miles, on the Machynlleth road, 
 and like many other Welsh towns, is only pleasing at a 
 distance. The prospects from a spot called the Bowling- 
 green, are singularly fine. The threatening summit of 
 Cader Idris, the northern ascent to which appears nearly 
 perpendicular, lends its wonderful display of mountain 
 sublimity ; a train of subordinate inequalities, stretching 
 their indignant eminences along its base. But if the town 
 affords so little to gratify the curiosity of the inquisitive 
 tourist, its neighbourhood abounds with objects of the 
 most interesting character. Sir R. Hoare asserts, that he 
 "knows of no place in the Principality whence so many 
 pleasing and interesting excursions may be made, and 
 where nature bears so rich, varied, and grand an aspect 
 as at Dolgellau." 
 
 The waterfalls in this vicinity are a considerable attrac- 
 tion to the tourist : these are, "Rhaiadr Du," the black 
 cataract ; " Rhaiadr-y-Mawddach, " the fall of the river 
 
 Mawddach ; " Pistyll-y-Cain," the fall of the Cain 
 
 The first is about five, the two latter about eight miles 
 from Dolgellau, and all of them near the high road lead- 
 ing towards Maen-Twrog. We shall present the reader 
 with a description of these, in order, in the correct lan- 
 guage of Mr. Bingley :— ■ 
 
 Rhaiadr Dr. 
 This fall is in the grounds of W. A. Maddocks, Esq. 
 at Dol-melynllyn, whence it is often called the Dol- 
 melynllyn Fall. The water foams, with a thundering 
 noise, down two rocks about sixty feet high. The seene 
 has a singular appearance from the black adjacent and 
 uncouth rocks, being in many places covered with a pure 
 white lichen. The trees on one side of the stream had 
 been lately cut down, but the lively and varied green and 
 brown tints of the other, were beautifully contrasted 
 
150 RHAIADR DU. — RHAIADR MAWDDACH. 
 
 with the almost jet black rocks with which they were 
 intermixed. The torrent rolls into a small deep bason, 
 from whence it dashes itself along the rugged channel to 
 the river Mawddach. Mr. Maddockshas been at the ex- 
 pense of making a good foot-path, both to the bottom 
 and to the upper part of this cataract, by which the tra- 
 veller is enabled with comfort to see it to the greatest 
 advantage. 
 
 I went about a mile further on the road, from whence 
 I had a walk, of near two miles, along a foot-path to the 
 right, to the remaining waterfalls, which are within a 
 few hundred yards of each other. From the side of an 
 eminence about half a mile from these, I could observe 
 the river Mawddach rolling down a steep, in a woody 
 vale above, and its hoarse murmuring just reached my 
 ear. Beyond it, at some distance, there was a rude arch, 
 which crossed the glen, and from my station gave a pleas- 
 ing and romantic cast to the scene. 
 
 Descending now (but cautious lest too fast) 
 A sudden steep upon a rustic bridge, 
 We pass'd a gulph in which the hazels dip 
 Their pendant boughs. 
 
 This was a perfectly Alpine bridge over the river Cain, 
 formed by the rude trunk of an oak, which hung fright- 
 fully over the black torrent that roared among the rocks 
 many feet beneath. I had not passed this bridge far, 
 before I found myself at the foot of 
 
 Rhaiadr Mawddach, 
 The Cataract of the Mawddach. The river here forces 
 itself down a rock betwixt 50 and 60 feet in height, whose 
 strata lying in parallel lines several degrees inclined from 
 the horizon, give the scene a singularly crooked appear- 
 ance. The stream is thrice broken in its descent, and 
 the bason into which it is precipitated is very large. The 
 rocks and trees form an amphitheatre around, and the 
 foreground was finely broken by the large pieces of rock 
 that had been once loosened from above. I had to cross 
 the stream before I could see the upper part of the fall, 
 which was hidden by the intervening rocks. In this sta- 
 
PISTYLL-Y-CAIN Y VANNER NANNAU. 151 
 
 tion the scene appeared complete, and it was certainly 
 picturesque. 
 
 Pistyll-y-Cain 
 is by far the highest and most magnificent cataract of the 
 three. A narrow stream rushes down a vast rock, at 
 least a 150 feet high, whose horizontal strata run in ir- 
 regular steps through its whole breadth, and form a mural 
 front. These, indeed, are so regular, as in a great mea- 
 sure to destroy the picturesque effect of the scene, unless 
 they are nearly hidden by a much greater volume of water 
 than usual. Immense fragments of broken rock at the 
 foot of the fall, scattered in every different direction, 
 communicate a pleasing effect ; and the agreeable mixture 
 of tints of the dark oak and birch, with the yellower and 
 fading elm, formed altogether a highly pleasing scene. 
 
 Y Vanner, or Kymmer Abbey. 
 The remains of this abbey are situated about a mile 
 and a half from Dolgellau, and half a mile from Llanilltyd, 
 near the banks of the Maw. They may be visited by 
 the pedestrian, in his way to the waterfalls. The abbey 
 was founded in 1 198, by Meredith and Griffith, lords of 
 Merioneth. The monks were of the Cistercian order, 
 and the abbey was dedicated to St. Mary. Part of the 
 church of this monastery only is left, and the refectory 
 and abbot's lodging are built into an adjoining farm-house. 
 
 Nannau Park. 
 About two miles from Dolgellau, is an ancient seat, for- 
 merly belonging to the Nannau's, but now the property 
 and residence of Sir Robert Williames Vaughan, M.P. for 
 the county, who has erected upon it a handsome mansion, 
 and maintains, unimpaired, the hospitality of the olden 
 times. The way to it from Dolgellau, is a continued 
 ascent, and Mr. Pennant observes, is the highest situation 
 of any gentleman's house in Britain. It stands 702 feet 
 above the level of the sea, and from the furthest of the 
 numerous lodges, has the longest approach (five miles) 
 of any other house. The estate is covered with fine 
 woods, which clothe all the sides of the dingles for many 
 miles. The park of Nannau is remarkable for its very 
 small but excellent venison. 
 
152 NANNAU PARK. 
 
 In the park of Nannau there stood, within these few 
 years, a hollow, large, and blasted oak, whose blanched 
 and withered leaves presented in spring a striking contrast 
 to the verdure of the surrounding woods. This oak was 
 noticed by Mr. Pennant, when he was upon the spot, 
 above fifty years ago, in the following terms: " In the 
 park, there is a venerable oak, in its last stage of decay, 
 and pierced by age into the form of a Gothic arch ; yet 
 its present girth is twenty-seven feet and a half : its name 
 is very classical, Derwen Ceubrenyr Ellyll, " The hol- 
 low oak, the haunt of demons." With so appalling a 
 name, this ancient monarch of the forest was held in 
 great dread by the timid passenger ; and the peasant as he 
 passed in the gloom of the evening, would quicken his 
 pace, and perhaps murmur a prayer for the preservation 
 of his person from the crafts and assaults of the evil one. 
 
 E'en to this day the peasant still, 
 
 With cautious fear treads o'er the ground, 
 
 In each wild bush a spectre sees, 
 And trembles at each rising sound. 
 
 The final end of this celebrated oak is thus related by 
 Sir Richard ColtHoare : "During a visit," says the wor- 
 thy Baronet, ?f to Sir Robert Vaughan, in the summer of 
 the year 1813, this aged tree, mentioned by Mr. Pennant, 
 attracted my notice ; and on the morning of the 13th of 
 July, I made a drawing of it, in one of the most sultry 
 days I ever felt ; the succeeding night was equally hot, 
 and on the same night this venerable oak fell to the 
 ground." 
 
 The legend of the oak, above alluded to, is related as 
 follows : Howel Sele, the possessor of this house, and 
 first cousin to Owen Glyndwr, refusing to espouse his 
 kinsman's and his country's cause, incurred the indigna- 
 tion of the warrior ; and while hunting together one day, 
 Owen observed a doe feeding, and told Howel, w r ho was 
 reckoned the best archer of his day, that there was a fine 
 mark for him. Howel bent his bow, and, pretending to 
 aim at the doe, suddenly turned and discharged the arrow 
 full at the breast of Glyndwr, who fortunately had ar- 
 mour beneath his clothes, so received no hurt. But 
 
ANGLING STATIONS FFESTINIOG. 153 
 
 enraged at this treachery, he seized on Sele, burnt his 
 house, and hurried away from the place ; nor could any 
 one ever learn how Howel's body was disposed of, till 
 forty years after, when the skeleton of a man was dis- 
 covered in the hollow of the said oak, where Owen was 
 supposed to have immured him. In Sir Walter Scott's 
 notes to Marmion, (No. 5, Canto 6) may be seen an in- 
 teresting poem, by Worthington, on this subject, which 
 is historical, or rather traditional, (for no authentic re- 
 cords remain to confirm either) that differs materially 
 from the above. 
 
 Angling Stations. 
 
 Distances from Dolgellau. Miles. 
 
 Traws-vynydd, on the Bychan 12 
 
 Llanvachreth 3£ 
 
 Hendre Llwyngwr, (s. w.) 11 
 
 Pont Dolgeflliau, on the Mawddach, (n.) 8 
 
 D61-y-gamedd, on the Avon 4 
 
 Llyn Cregenan, (s. w.) 4 
 
 Llyn Gader H 
 
 Llyn Geirw, (s. w.) 5 
 
 Tal-y-llyn, Cader Idris 6 
 
 FFESTINIOG, 
 
 (MERIONETHSHIRE.) 
 
 Bala 19^ Tan-y-Bwlch 3 
 
 Maen-Twrog 2| Tremadoc 14 
 
 Ffestiniog is a small but increasing village, standing on 
 an eminence at the head of the beautiful vale of Maen- 
 Twrog. The population amounts to 1648, principally 
 employed in the slate quarries, about four miles from 
 the village. The church is built in the ancient style of 
 English architecture, and dedicated to St. Michael. A 
 gallery has recently been erected at the west end, con- 
 taining seventy-two free sittings. The Rev. J. Jones, 
 A. M. is the present incumbent of the rectory, in con- 
 junction with that of Maen-Twrog. There are also 
 
154 FFESTINIOG FALLS OF THE CYNFAEL. 
 
 several dissenting places of worship with Sunday schools 
 attached. A national school for the parishes at Ffestiniog 
 and Maen-Twrog, was opened in 1830, in a neat building 
 erected a short distance from the village, on the Maen- 
 Twrog road. 
 
 There are two good inns, the Pengwern Arms, and the 
 Newborough Arms ; at the former cars and post horses 
 may be obtained ; there is likewise attached to it a very 
 comfortable boarding house, kept by Miss Owen : terms, 
 one guinea per week for board and lodging. The roads 
 in this neighbourhood have, of late, been much improved : 
 a new road from Maen-Twrog to Harlech was opened last 
 summer. A rail-road is now in progress, intended for 
 the conveyance of slates to Port Madoc, a distance of 
 about 14 miles. 
 
 The scenery of Ffestiniog closely resembles that of St. 
 Helena, arid particularly Sandy Hook Cove. The vale 
 which gives celebrity to this village has been eulogized 
 by many distinguished travellers. Mr. Pennant calls it 
 the " Tempe of the country." Mr. Warner observes, 
 " that it comprehends every object that can enrich or 
 diversify a landscape ;" Mr. Wyndham affirms, that "it 
 affords as rich studies for the painter, as the neighbour- 
 hood of Tivoli or Frascati ;" and Lord Lyttleton, who 
 visited the place about the year 1756, is still more lavish 
 in his encomiums. " With the woman one loves, with 
 the friend of one's heart, and a good study of books, 
 (says his Lordship to his friend Mr. Bower) one might 
 pass an age in this vale, and think it a day. If you have 
 a mind to live long and renew your youth, come with 
 Mrs. Bower and settle at Ffestiniog. Not long ago there 
 died in this neighbourhood an honest Welsh farmer, who 
 was 105 years of age. By his first wife he had thirty 
 children ; ten by his second ; four by his third, and seven 
 by two concubines : his youngest son was eighty-one years 
 younger than the eldest; and 800 persons descended from 
 his body, attended his funeral." — The dimensions of this 
 vale are inconsiderable, being scarcely three miles long, 
 and not exceeding one in breadth. About half a mile 
 from Ffestiniog are the 
 
 Falls of the Cynfael. 
 One of these is about three hundred yards above, and 
 
FALLS OF THE CYNFAEL. 155 
 
 the other three hundred yards below a rustic stone bridge, 
 three quarters of a mile distant. The upper fall consists 
 of three steep rocks, over which the water foams into a 
 deep black bason, overshadowed by the adjoining rocks. 
 The other is formed by a broad sheet of water, precipi- 
 tated down a slightly shelving rock, about 40 feet high. 
 After the water has reached the bottom of the deep con- 
 cavity, it rushes along a narrow rocky chasm, where 
 rolling amid the shaggy rocks, it glistens among the scat- 
 tered fragments, and falling from slope to slope, gains a 
 smoother bed, and steals among the mazes of the vale. 
 In the pools below these falls, there is excellent fishing, 
 the trout and salmon being very numerous. Between the 
 lower cataract and the bridge is a tall columnar rock, 
 which stands in the bed of the river, called Pulpit Hugh 
 Llwyd Cynfal, or Hugh Lloyd's Pulpit. 
 
 There are few vales which afford such delightful pros- 
 pects. Many of the high mountains bounding its sides 
 are shaded by oaks, and the serpentine Dwyryd steals 
 placidly along the bottom through rich cultivated fields. 
 This river, at the bottom of the valley, receives the tide, 
 and expands into a wide lake -like channel, called Traeth 
 Bychan, where it flows through the sandy estuary of 
 Traeth Bach, and into Cardigan bay, the sea at a dis- 
 tance closing the view. 
 
 The village of Maen-Twrog is situated near the middle 
 of the vale. Lord Lyttleton gives the following lively 
 description of Ffestiniog and its contiguous vale, which 
 we shall adopt for its descriptive beauties. " From the 
 height of this village you have a view of the sea. The 
 hills are green, and well shaded with wood. There is a 
 lovely rivulet which winds through the bottom ; on each 
 side are meadows, and above are corn-fields along the 
 sides of the hills. At each end are high mountains, 
 which seem placed there to guard this charming retreat 
 against any invasion. When we had skirted this happy 
 vale an hour or two, we came to a narrow branch of the 
 sea, which is dry at low water. As we passed over the 
 sands, we were surprised to see all the cattle prefer that 
 barren place to the meadows. The guide said, it was to 
 avoid a fly, which in the heat of the day came out of the 
 woods, and infested them in the vallies. The view of 
 
156 CWM-ORDDIN LAKE. 
 
 these sands is terrible, as they are hemmed in on both 
 sides with very high hills, but broken into a thousand 
 irregular shapes. At one end is the ocean, at the other 
 the formidable mountains of Snowdon, black and naked 
 rocks, which seem to be piled one above another ; the 
 summits of some of them are covered with clouds, and 
 cannot be ascended. The grandeur of the ocean, cor- 
 responding with that of the mountains, formed a majestic 
 and solemn scene ; ideas of immensity swelled and exalted 
 our minds at the sight : all lesser objects appeared mean 
 and trifling, so that we could scarcely do justice to the 
 ruins of an old castle, situated at the top of a conic hill, 
 the foot of which is washed by the sea, and which has 
 every feature that can give a romantic appearance. 
 
 " The morning being fair, we ventured to climb up to 
 the top of a mountain, not, indeed, so high as Snowdon, 
 which is here called Moel Guidon, i. e. the nest of the 
 eagle, but one degree lower than that called Moel Hap- 
 pock, (Hebog) the nest of the hawk, from whence we 
 saw a phenomenon, new to our eyes, but common in 
 Wales : on the one side was midnight, on the other, 
 bright day ; the whole extent of Snowdon on our left, 
 was wrapt in clouds from the top to the bottom ; on the 
 right the sun shone most gloriously over the sea-coast of 
 Caernarvon. The hill on which we stood was perfectly 
 clear, the way we came up was a tolerably easy ascent ; 
 but before us was a precipice of many hundred yards, 
 and below, a vale, which though not cultivated, has much 
 savage beauty ; the sides were steep, and fringed with 
 low wood. There were two little lakes, or rather large 
 pools which stood in the bottom, whence issued a rivulet 
 which serpentised in view for two or three miles, and 
 was a pleasing relief to the eyes." 
 
 About four miles distant, among the hills, is 
 
 Cwm-orddin Lake. 
 This and several other lakes are notable for the excellent 
 sport they afford for angling. Of these, a gentleman 
 who is fond of this diversion, and who has visited those 
 parts, has kindly supplied us with the following informa- 
 tion : — " The fish in Cwm-orddin Lake (says he) rise 
 more eagerly to flies than any I ever saw. The fish are 
 
LLYN MORWYNION, ETC FLINT. 157 
 
 rather small, and not good for the table. The two best 
 stations for angling are, first, where the boat is kept ; 
 second, the head of the lake. Throw among the weeds, 
 fearlessly, as they always come away with a pull. 
 
 "Llyn Morwynion 
 contains excellent fish, both in size and quality, but they 
 are very shy : it is about two miles from Ffestiniog, near 
 the Capel Curig road. — No boat. 
 
 " Llyn Mao nod, 
 about two miles and a half from Ffestiniog, contains most 
 
 excellent trout, far less shy than those of Morwynion 
 
 No boat. There is a small lake just below the summit 
 of Mod Wyn, which may be tried by any one wishing to 
 
 combine a fine extensive view with sport No boat. 
 
 Llyn Conway is at times difficult of access round its 
 banks, being marshy. — No boat. There are two or three 
 lakes on the right of the road to Bala. * My opinion is, 
 that without a boat the angler will do little on a lake. 
 I would recommend, therefore, a very long rod when you 
 must fish from shore. There is good salmon fishing in 
 the river that runs past Maen-Twrog. In the beginning 
 of June, I found the sand fly excellent for the lakes." 
 
 FLINT, 
 
 (FLINTSHIRE.) 
 
 Chester 13 London.. 200 
 
 Holywell 5 Mold 6 
 
 Flint is a borough, market-town, and sea-port, and a 
 parochial chapelry in the parish of Northop, and is the 
 ancient capital of the county ; it contains a population of 
 2216 inhabitants. Although it cannot be identified with 
 any Roman station mentioned in the Itineraries, it was 
 nevertheless either of Roman or Roman -British origin, as 
 is proved from the circumstance of its even now occupy- 
 ing a rectangular entrenched area, like that of a Roman 
 
 * See Bala. 
 
158 
 
 place of defence, and by the discovery, at various times, 
 both here and in the neighbourhood, of Roman coins, 
 fibulae, &c. while at the same time it is traditionally re- 
 lated that a very large town existed here at an early period. 
 
 The town is situated on the shore of the estuary of the 
 Dee, opposite to Parkgate, betwixt and which ferry- 
 boats ply daily. It consists of four principal streets, 
 crossing each other at right angles ; the buildings, how- 
 ever, are very inferior in appearance. The county hall, 
 and gaol where the county prisoners are kept, are tolera- 
 ble structures, but for many years the assizes have been 
 held at Mold, six miles distant. The principal branch of 
 trade is the smelting of lead-ore, for which purpose very 
 
 extensive works have been erected In these works 
 
 6,000 tons of lead are annually smelted, from which 
 nearly 40,000 ounces of silver are extracted. Close to 
 the town are extensive collieries, in which eight hundred 
 men are constantly employed, and 1,500 tons of coals 
 are raised weekly ; rail-roads have been constructed to 
 convey the coals to the wharfs, whence it is sent coast- 
 wise to Chester, and to various parts of North Wales. 
 The principal exports, in addition to the vast quantity of 
 coal, are the produce of the lead-works, consisting of 
 lead in pigs, bars, sheets, and patent pipes ; red lead, 
 litharge, and silver. 
 
 For the convenience of persons who visit Flint for 
 the benefit of the waters, hot baths have been constructed 
 on an extensive scale, and are provided with every requi- 
 site accommodation. The Royal Oak and the Ship may 
 be considered inns of the second order. The government 
 of the town is vested in a mayor, (the constable of the 
 castle) appointed by letters patent, two bailiffs, a recorder, 
 and twelve capital burgesses, assisted by a mace-bearer, 
 and other officers, elected annually. It is one of the 
 contributary boroughs, which, in conjunction with Caer- 
 gwrle, Caerwys, Overton, Rhuddlan, St. Asaph, Holy- 
 well, and Mold, returns one member to parliament. 
 There are daily ferry-boats for passengers, plying between 
 Flint and Chester. 
 
 The Castle. 
 The remains of this ancient structure stand upon a 
 
FLINT CASTLE. 159 
 
 rock in the marsh at the bottom of the town, and so near 
 the river, that at high water the walls are washed by the 
 tide. It has been a square building, with a tower at 
 each angle, considerable remains of every one of which 
 are yet left. The tower at the south-east corner, which 
 is called the Double Tower, is much larger than the 
 others. In its outward diameter it measures forty feet ; 
 it is formed by two concentric walls, each six feet thick, 
 having a gallery eight feet wide included between them, 
 and leaving a circular area of about twenty feet in dia- 
 meter, into which there was an entry from the gallery by 
 four doors. This appears to have been the keep. The 
 interior of the castle is a square court, containing about 
 an acre of ground. In the curtain on the west side, there 
 are yet left several windows with pointed arches. 
 
 The foundation of this castle is disputed between Henry 
 II. and Edward I. It was alternately possessed by the 
 Welsh and English princes for two or three centuries. In 
 1399, we find it in possession of Percy, Earl of Northum- 
 berland, who betrayed into it the unfortunate Richard II. 
 under the insidious pretence that Bolingbroke, who 
 was waiting for him there, desired only to have his pro- 
 perty restored, and that the kingdom should have a 
 parliament. Northumberland met the King at Conway, 
 where he had gone after his return from Ireland ; and 
 they were proceeding together to this place, when, among 
 the recesses of the mountains near Penmaen Rhos, the 
 latter observed a band of soldiers. Alarmed for his 
 safety, and now fearful of the snare that was laid for him, 
 he attempted to return ; but Percy, springing forward, 
 caught his horse's bridle, and forcibly directed his course. 
 They dined together at Rhuddlan, and arrived on the 
 same evening at Flint. The next day, "after dinner, 
 (says Stowe) the Duke of Lancaster entered the castle 
 all armed, his vasenet excepted. King Richard came 
 down to meet him ; and the Duke, as soon as he saw the 
 King, fell down on his knees, and coming near unto him, 
 he kneeled a second time with his hat in his hand ; and 
 the King then put off his hoode and spoke first : * Fair 
 cousin of Lancaster, you are right welcome.' The 
 Duke, bowing low to the ground, answered, * My Lord, 
 I am come before you sent for me ; the reason why I shall 
 
160 GRESFORD. 
 
 shew you. The common fame among your people is 
 such, that ye have for the space of twenty or two and 
 twenty years, ruled them very rigorously : but, if it 
 please our Lord, I will help you to govern better !' The 
 Duke then with a high sharpe voice, bade bring forth the 
 King's, horses, and two little nagges, not worth fourtie 
 franks, were brought forthe : the King was set on the 
 one, and the Earl of Salisbury on the other ; and thus 
 the Duke brought them from Flint to Chester;" from 
 whence, after a night's rest, they were taken to London. 
 In the civil wars this castle was garrisoned for the 
 King, and defended itself with great bravery, but was 
 at last surrendered to General Mytton. In August, 1646, 
 it was, with Hawarden and three other castles, ordered 
 to be dismantled. 
 
 GRESFORD, 
 
 (DENBIGHSHIRE.) 
 
 Chester 8 Wrexham 3 
 
 Gresford is a small beautiful village, situated on the 
 western side of the road from Wrexham to Chester, near 
 the head of a beautiful valley, which opens into the Vale 
 Royal of Cheshire, a tract of country remarkable for the 
 richness of its soil, the beauty of its scenery, and the 
 pleasingly diversified views which it presents. The little 
 Vale of Gresford is one of the most lovely in the Prin- 
 cipality, abounding with pleasing and interesting objects, 
 enlivened by the meandering river Alyn through its 
 meadows, and finely varied with richly wooded eminen- 
 ces, on one of which stands conspicuously its beautiful 
 church, remarkable for the elegance of its architecture, 
 and its picturesque appearance, and still more noted for 
 its musical bells, ranked as one of the seven -wonders of 
 Wales. Inside the church are some ancient and curious 
 tombs and monuments, and the windows exhibit the re- 
 mains of fine painted glass. 
 
 Deeply sheltered in the vale, is Gresford Lodge, the 
 seat of Mrs. W. Egerton, a stately and elegant mansion. 
 Upper Gwersyllt Hall, on the banks of the Alyn, was 
 
GRESF0RD HANMER. 161 
 
 the residence of Colonel Robinson, a distinguished par- 
 tizan of the unfortunate Charles I. who was interred in 
 Gresford church in 1680. Lower Gwersyllt was occu- 
 pied by another zealous adherent of that Prince, Jefferey 
 Shakerley. 
 
 From the top of Marford hill, on the road towards 
 Chester, is a most delightful view of the Vale of Cheshire, 
 the city of Chester, and the river Dee. In the immedi- 
 ate vicinity of the village, is an eminence called the 
 Rofts, formerly a British camp, treble-trenched, having 
 at one corner a lofty monnt or keep. 
 
 Angling Station The river Alyn. 
 
 HANMER, 
 
 (FLINTSHIRE.) 
 
 Ellesmere 5 Wrexham 10 
 
 This village, which forms a detached portion of Flint- 
 shire, takes its name from a spacious mere or lake, in 
 form resembling a human hand, on one side of which the 
 village is pleasantly situated. It stands on the road be- 
 twixt Wrexham and Whitchurch. The lake occupies a 
 space of seventy-three acres, on one side of which stands 
 the family mansion of Sir John Hanmer, and on the other 
 that of Lord Kenyon. In the church is a handsome mo- 
 nument, executed by Bacon, erected in 1806, to the 
 memory of Lord Chief Justice Kenyon, who was born 
 at Gredington, in the vicinity There is another monu- 
 ment in honour of Sir Thomas Hanmer, who was Speaker 
 in the House of Commons in the reign of Queen Anne. 
 
 Hanmer is distinguished by the Welsh, as being the 
 birth-place of their celebrated Bard Davydd ab Edmund, 
 who at an Eisteddvod, held at Caermarthen in 1451, won 
 the bardic chair, and through his superior eloquence ob- 
 tained the sanction of that congress to the twenty-four 
 canons of Welsh poetry, there proposed by him, and by 
 which the science has, in a great measure, been governed 
 ever sinee. 
 
162 HARLECH. 
 
 HARLECH, 
 
 (MERIONETHSHIRE.) 
 
 Barmouth 10 Penmorfa 7 
 
 London 229 Tan-y-Bwlch 10 
 
 Maen-Twrog 9 Tremadoc 10 
 
 Harlech, or Harddlech, is an inconsiderable place, 
 situated upon a barren rock, containing four or five hun- 
 dred inhabitants, once the principal town of this district. 
 Its name is derived from its situation, originally called 
 Twr Bronwen, and afterwards Caer Collwyn, from Coll- 
 wyn ap Tagno, who resided there about 877. Harlech 
 is in the parish of Llanfair, built with its castle upon a 
 cliff, which overhangs the marsh, on the sea coast, near 
 Cardigan bay. The castle, which is tolerably entire, is 
 a square building, each side measuring about 70 yards, 
 and has at each corner a round tower, to which once 
 were annexed round turrets. The entrance is between 
 two great rounders, like Caernarvon, and [the principal 
 apartments appear to have been over the gateway, in a 
 part of the building which projected into the court ; and 
 at each angle is also a large round tower. The castle 
 was defended on the east side by a deep foss. 
 
 According to ancient history, this castle was built by 
 Maelgwn Gwynedd, Prince of North Wales, about 530, 
 and Edward I. founded the present fortress upon the 
 ruins of the old castle. • It was completed in 1283. In 
 1404, this castle, with that of Aberystwyth, was seized 
 by the valiant Owen Glyndwr, during his contest with 
 Henry IV. They were both retaken about four years 
 afterwards by an army which the King dispatched into 
 Wales. Margaret of Anjou, the spirited Queen of Henry 
 VI., after the King's defeat at Northampton, in 1460, 
 fled from Coventry, and found an asylum in this fortress. 
 
 In the civil wars of Charles I. Harlech castle was the 
 last in North Wales which held out for the King. From 
 the castle, if the atmosphere happen to be clear, may be 
 seen the peaked summit of Snowdon, elevated much 
 above the other mountains ; the promontory of Lleyn, 
 Criccaeth castle, and the entire bay of Cardigan. Near 
 
HARLECH. 163 
 
 this place is a curious antique monument, called Coeten 
 Arthur, or King Arthur's Quoit, which is a large flat 
 stone, lying horizontally, supported by two others. The 
 supporters are about 20 inches square, two of them are 
 eight feet high, and the incumbent stone, inclining to an 
 oval, is eleven feet in length. 
 
 In the winter of 1694, this neighbourhood was greatly 
 alarmed by a kind of fiery exhalation, or mephitic vapour, 
 which arose from a sandy marshy tract of land, called 
 Morfa Bychan (the little marsh), across the channel, 
 eight miles towards Harlech, and injured much of the 
 country, by poisoning the grass in such a manner as to 
 kill the cattle, and to set fire to hay and corn ricks for 
 near a mile from the coast. It is represented to have had 
 the appearance of a weak blue flame, which by any noise, 
 such as the firing of guns, or the sounding of a horn, was 
 easily extinguished. All the damage was done invariably 
 in the night, and in the course of the winter not less 
 than sixteen hay ricks and two barns, one filled with 
 corn and the other with hay, were burnt by it. It did 
 not appear to affect any thing else, and men could go 
 into it without receiving any injury. It was observed at 
 different times during eight months. The occasion of 
 this singular phenomenon has never been satisfactorily 
 accounted for. 
 
 From Harlech, an excursion may be made to Civm 
 
 Bychan (the little hollow), about four miles distant 
 
 One mile from the town may be seen a circle of stones, 
 thirty yards in diameter, probably one of those druidic 
 circles in which were held the Gorseddau, or bardic 
 meetings. Cwm Bychan is a grassy dell, about half a 
 mile in length, surrounded by black and dreary scenery. 
 On the right, at its entrance, is the small pool called 
 Llyn y Cwm Bychan, from the edge of which, Carreg 
 y Saeth (the rock of the arrow), towers in dismal black- 
 ness : yet the landscape extends hence in great magni- 
 ficence. Descending into the hollow, past an ancient 
 mansion, and ascending on the other side, a deep moun- 
 tain hollow occurs, called Bwlch Tyddiad. Passing up- 
 on this rocky cleft beyond the higher mountains, on a 
 sudden a fine prospect of all the country eastward opens, 
 bounded by Cader Idris, the two Arennigs, and other 
 mountains. 
 
164 HARLECH HA WARDEN. 
 
 Out of the track, two miles south of Harlech, is a 
 cromlech, in a farm called Gwern Minion ; and on the 
 side of the hill on which the road passes, in a wood, is 
 a considerable cataract. Between the cromlech and the 
 town of Harlech is another druidic circle. 
 
 At the ebb of the tide, part of a long stone wall, 
 which runs out into the sea from Machran, a point of 
 land a few miles south of Harlech, may be seen. It ex- 
 tends in a w. s. w. direction for nearly twenty miles, 
 and is called Sam Badrig, or Sam Badrwyg (the ship- 
 wrecking causeway), an astonishing work, being through- 
 out 24 feet thick. Sam y Bwlch runs from a point N. w. 
 
 of Harlech, and is supposed to meet the end of this 
 
 The space between these formed, several centuries ago, 
 a habitable hundred of Merionethshire, called Cantref 
 Gwaelod (the lowland hundred). Those walls, as it is 
 supposed, were built to keep out the sea. 
 
 The principal inn is the Blue Lion, where post chaises 
 may be had, and where a guide may be procured to con- 
 duct the tourist to the different objects of attraction in 
 the neighbourhood. A small market is held on the 
 Saturday. 
 
 Angling Stations. 
 
 Distance from Harlech. Miles. 
 
 Llanvihaugel, on the Dwyryd 5 
 
 Llanbedr, on the Bychan 3 
 
 Lakes — Llyn y Vedw ) 
 
 Llyn Eidaw > near the Dwyryd. 
 
 Llyn Glyn y 
 
 Llyny Cwm Bychan 5 
 
 Llyn Trewyn. 
 
 HAWARDEN, 
 
 (FLINTSHIRE.) 
 
 Chester 7 Holywell 11 
 
 Flint 8 Northop 5 
 
 This prosperous little town, pronounced Harden, consists 
 
 i 
 
HAWARDEN. 165 
 
 of one continuous street, more than half a mile long, and 
 like most other small places in which a great and opulent 
 family resides, has a neat and cleanly appearance. The 
 British name was Pennardd Halawg, or Pennardd-y-Lag, 
 corrupted probably from Pen-y-Llwch, "the head-land 
 above the lake," the surrounding marshes having been 
 once covered by the sea. It has a weekly market, and 
 the population of the parish is rated at somewhat above 
 5000 inhabitants. The Glynne Arms is a good inn, 
 where the traveller may be comfortably accommodated. 
 
 Extensive collieries are worked in this parish, and 
 there are also several large brick and tile works, in the 
 former of which fire-bricks of various sizes are made, 
 besides numerous potteries for the manufacture of the 
 coarser kind of earthenware. An extensive iron foundery 
 is carried on in the town, and attached to it is a mill for 
 boring canon, which was formerly cast here. The river 
 Dee, or Chester channel, passes within about two miles 
 of the town. 
 
 The living is a rectory, in the peculiar and exempt 
 jurisdiction of the incumbent, whose annual income, from 
 the immense inclosures that have taken place within the 
 parish, is not less than £4000. The living is in the 
 patronage of Sir S. R. Glynne. The church, dedicated 
 to St. Deiniol, is an ancient and spacious structure, with 
 a square embattled tower. It was thoroughly repaired in 
 1764, and the chancel was almost entirely rebuilt in 1817, 
 at an expense of £1400, jointly defrayed by the Hon. 
 and Rev. George Neville Grenville, then rector, the 
 late Lord Amesbury, and the inhabitants. There is a 
 grammar school, and a house erected for the master, 
 whose salary is £20 a year. 
 
 It may not be amiss to apprise the traveller, that in 
 this town the inhabitants speak only the English tongue. 
 From its contiguity to, and constant intercourse with 
 Chester, it is so anglicized, that scarce any of the natives 
 can speak or understand a sentence of Welsh. A few 
 miles further in the interior, however, the latter language 
 is almost universally used. 
 
 The ruins of the ancient castle of Hawarden occupy 
 an artificial eminence at the eastern extremity of the 
 town, within the park of Sir S. R. Glynne ; the wide 
 
166 HAWARDES. 
 
 and deep trenches by which it was defended, now form 
 picturesque ravines, filled with trees of luxuriant growth, 
 above which the ruins are seen with romantic effect : a 
 considerable improvement has been made in the appear- 
 ance of these remains, by the removal of the accumu- 
 lated rubbish, by which the foundation was concealed 
 
 It appears to have been originally of a pentagonal form, 
 with a strong gateway entrance on the western side, and 
 a barbican on another of its sides : the principal portion 
 now remaining is the keep, a circular tower, situated at 
 one of the angles of the inclosed area, and nearly entire ; 
 the other remains are chiefly fragments of the walls, by 
 which the foundation was concealed. 
 
 The mansion of Sir S. R. Glynne, Bart, to which is 
 now given the name of Hawarden castle, is a stately and 
 handsome castellated structure, situated within an exten- 
 sive park, comprising much diversified scenery, and com- 
 prehending the site and remains of the ancient castle 
 
 The grounds are tastefully laid out, and ornamented with 
 extensive and thriving plantations. Sir John Glynne, 
 the ancestor of the present proprietor, who had espoused 
 the popular cause against Charles I. purchased the manor 
 and rectory from the agents of sequestration, though from 
 the time of Henry VI. it had been in possession of the 
 Derby family ; and from him it descended to the present 
 possessor. 
 
 In the civil wars, the castle was garrisoned for the 
 King, but was ultimately subdued by the parliamentary 
 forces, and ordered to be dismantled. These orders ex- 
 tended only to the rendering it untenable ; but the fur- 
 ther destruction was effected by the owner, Sir William 
 Glynne, between the years 1665 and 1678. It has since 
 remained a mere shadow of its original grandeur — the 
 wreck of human pride, and an emblem of the mutability 
 of all sublunary things. 
 
 'Tis now the raven's bleak abode, 
 'Tis now the apartment of the toad ; 
 And there the fox securely feeds, 
 And there the pois'nous adder breeds, 
 Conceal'd in ruins, moss, and weeds. 
 
 The rectory house was formerly of small dimensions. 
 
HAWARDEN EWLOE CASTLE. 167 
 
 . but in 1814 the late rector added to the house a splen- 
 did suite of rooms, and it may now vie with any rectory 
 house of the present age. There are also many very ex- 
 cellent houses in the town, and several individuals of 
 great respectability and opulence. 
 
 To the west of the church, in a field near to the turn- 
 pike road, is an artificial mount of earth, which Mr. 
 Pennant conjectures to have been a small camp. Tra- 
 dition says, it was raised as a fortification to prevent 
 Henry II. from advancing by this pass into Wales, in 
 1157. The prospects from this mount to the east, north, 
 and north-west, are delightfully grand, comprehending a 
 view of Chester, and other minor objects, with Park- 
 gate, and the entire estuary of the Dee as far as Hoy- 
 lake. 
 
 A new turnpike road has lately been opened from this 
 village, about four miles in length, to the King's Ferry, 
 which crosses the Dee, on the opposite side of which 
 is another road, made to communicate with the Chester 
 and Liverpool turnpike a little above Shotwick. 
 
 Ewloe Castle 
 is distant from Hawarden about two miles, and stands a 
 quarter of a mile to the right from the turnpike road lead- 
 ing from thence to Northop. This old ruin does not dis- 
 cover itself to view by his lofty towers rising in the air, 
 but when you approach near to it, will require some 
 trouble to find it. It is concealed on the east, west, and 
 south, by the adjoining grounds, and embosomed in trees 
 to the north, without any visible way of approach, save 
 up the streamlet which passes at its foot, and discharges 
 itself into the estuary of the Dee, about two miles and a 
 half below, The larger ruin consists of a single room 
 on the ground floor, forty feet long by twenty-four feet 
 wide, square at the angular points on the outside, but 
 finished within at the end by a semi-circular bow. The 
 wall on the north, and part of the east and west walls 
 are mouldered away ; that on the south is seven feet 
 thick, inclosing a stair case, which has formerly led to 
 the room above, the jutting stones which have supported 
 the floor yet remaining. Pennant designates this struc- 
 ture a small fortress, but from its present appearance it 
 
168 COED EWLOE. 
 
 seems better calculated for the retirement or resort of a 
 gang of desperate marauders, than for any military pur- 
 pose. The towers are now finely overgrown with ivy, 
 and command the view of three wooded glens, deep and 
 darksome, and forming a gloomy solitude. The time of 
 its erection, and by whom built, is involved in obscurity. 
 In the woods near this place, called to this day, 
 
 Coed Ewloe, 
 
 part of the flower of the army detached by Henry II. in 
 1157, from his camp on Saltney, was surprised and de- 
 feated by David and Conan, the sons of Owen Gwynedd, 
 sent by their father with a strong party from his camp 
 near Basingwerk. They suffered the enemy to march 
 along the straights of the country, till their forces were 
 entangled in the depth of woods, and the steeps of the 
 narrow vallies, so frequent in these parts. The attack 
 was fierce, sudden, and unexpected ; the slaughter dread- 
 ful ; and the pursuit carried even to Henry's encamp- 
 ment. This proved to the English but a prelude to a 
 second defeat. The King, with an intent to repair the 
 disgrace, marched forward with his whole army ; and at 
 Coleshill, near Flint, suffered himself to be entrapped 
 into the same dilemma which his detachment had before 
 experienced. His forces were again defeated, and seve- 
 ral of his chiefs, with numbers of his men, slain. Henry 
 de Essex, hereditary standard bearer, and a man of ap- 
 proved valour, was seized with a panic, and throwing 
 down the standard, cried out, that the King was killed. 
 The route would have been general, if the King had not 
 valiantly rallied his forces, and repulsed the Welsh ; but 
 in the end he thought it prudent to withdraw his army, 
 and encamp in a more secure situation. He afterwards 
 attempted to cut off the retreat of Owen Gwynedd, by 
 marching along the shore, and placing himself between 
 him and the mountains ; but the wise Prince, penetrat- 
 ing his views, retired to a plain near St. Asaph, still 
 called Cil-Owen, or Owen's retreat, and from thence 
 to a strong post, called Bryn-y-Pin, defended by great 
 ramparts and ditches. 
 
HOLT HOLYHEAD. 169 
 
 HOLT, 
 (DENBIGHSHIRE.) 
 
 Chester 8 Wrexham 6 
 
 Rather a small village, on the west bank of the Dee, 
 was once a market town, and a place of some conse- 
 quence ; yet, even in its decayed and dilapidated state, 
 
 it can boast for its governors a mayor and two bailiffs 
 
 The two villages of Holt and Farndon, are separated 
 only by the river, and communicate by a bridge of ten 
 arches, built in 1345. The Dee at this place divides 
 England from Wales ; Farndon being in Cheshire, and 
 Holt in Denbighshire. 
 
 There is nothing remarkable in the scenery of this 
 neighbourhood; the Dee flowing through meadows, 
 without any of the beauty or grandeur of rocks or foli- 
 age that adorn its banks in the more mountainous part of 
 the country. The church or chapel is built of red stone, 
 and seems ancient. The borough contains 1015 inhabit- 
 ants. There formerly stood a strong castle, on a solid 
 rock close to the river, of which, however, very little 
 is visible, except the moat. It was garrisoned by the 
 royalists in 1643, but surrendered to the parliamentary 
 forces in 1645, and shortly afterwards demolished. 
 
 HOLYHEAD, 
 
 (ANGLESEY.) 
 
 Bangor 24 Dublin 60 
 
 Beaumaris 27 London by Chester . . . 279 
 
 Chester 86 Do. by Shrewsbury... 267 
 
 This place, which is of very remote antiquity, derives 
 its Welsh name, Caer Gybi, implying the fortress or 
 city of Cybi, * from its situation on a small island at the 
 western extremity of Anglesey, called Ynys Cybi, from 
 its having been for many years the residence of a British 
 
 * Pronounced Kubby. 
 
170 HOLYHEAD. 
 
 saint of that name, who is said to have been the son of 
 Solomon Duke of Cornwall. Its population in 1831, 
 was 4282 inhabitants. 
 
 Owing to the very extensive intercourse which now 
 subsists between the two kingdoms, the town has, with- 
 in the last few years, rapidly increased in extent and im- 
 proved in appearance, being now large and well built, 
 and affording ample accommodation of every kind for the 
 numerous passengers who embark at the port. From its 
 advantageous situation, it has been selected as the prin- 
 cipal station of the post-office packets, for conveying the 
 mails to Dublin ; and among other improvements, a new 
 line of road has been constructed under the walls of the 
 town, along the margin of the traeth, or sandy estuary, 
 which forms the harbour, extending more than a mile 
 along an artificial embankment, from the entrance of the 
 town to the commencement of the pier This pier ex- 
 tends from the small island, called Ynys Halen, or Salt 
 Island, in an east south-easterly direction into the sea, 
 and from the triumphal arch, hereafter described, is 360 
 yards in length ; and is connected with the main land by 
 a handsome iron bridge of one arch, dividing in the cen- 
 tre, and each part turning on a swivel to afford a passage 
 on either side. Beyond this bridge is the engineer's 
 house, the custom-house, the harbour-master's offices, 
 and the depot for the post-office stores : further on is the 
 grand triumphal arch, built by subscription of the gentry 
 of the county of Anglesey, to commemorate the circum- 
 stance of the royal squadron having anchored in Holy- 
 head bay, on the night of the 6th of August, 1821, and 
 the landing of his Majesty George IV. on the following 
 day. 
 
 The triumphal arch, which was opened in August, 
 1824, is a chaste and elegant structure of Mona marble, 
 brought from the Red-wharf Quarry, and consists of a 
 central carriage way, separated on each side by two hand- 
 some pillars of the Doric order from a foot-way, en- 
 closed exteriorly by a wall ornamented at the extremities 
 with antse of correspondent character, the whole twenty 
 feet high, and supporting a boldly projecting cornice, 
 surmounted by three diminishing tiers of masonry, form- 
 ing a platform : over the carriage-way, on each side, is 
 
Holyhead. 171 
 
 a large entablature, respectively bearing inscriptions in 
 Welsh and Latin, commemorative of the event. 
 
 The light-house is built entirely of hewn stone, and 
 without any other timber than what was necessary for 
 the door cases and window frames. It consists of three 
 stories, the ceilings of which are groined, and the gloves 
 are of smooth stone : its base is six feet above high water 
 mark, and is protected from the sea by a strong glacis — 
 The tower, which is circular, is thirty-three feet in 
 height to the gallery, and the lantern, which is ten feet 
 higher, is lighted with twenty brilliant lights of oil gas, 
 having reflectors plated with silver, and displaying a 
 strong white light, which being at an elevation of fifty 
 feet above the level of the sea, affords a safe guide to 
 vessels approaching the harbour. The whole of these 
 works were completed at an expense of about £130,000, 
 and a graving dock was constructed at an additional ex- 
 pense of £12,000. 
 
 The post-office establishment at this place consists of 
 six steam packets of 230 tons burden, which sail regularly 
 at one and eight o'clock in the morning from this port and 
 from Howth, keeping up a constant intercourse between 
 the two countries. 
 
 No manufactures are carried on at this place : several 
 attempts have been made, at considerable expense, to 
 explore the mineral treasures with which the parish was 
 supposed to abound, but nothing of importance has yet 
 been discovered, except some veins of Mona marble, 
 called " verd antique," which have been worked to some 
 extent. The trade consists chiefly in the building of 
 coasting vessels, the repairing of all the post-office steam 
 packets belonging to the several ports of England and 
 Wales, and the making of ropes and cables. The market 
 is on Saturday. 
 
 The church, dedicated to St. Cybi, is a spacious cru- 
 ciform structure, principally in the decorated style of 
 English architecture. The exterior of the church is em- 
 battled ; inside the porch, and outside the transept, are 
 curiously ornamented with grotesque figures ; on a pedi- 
 ment of the north transept is this inscription, Sancte 
 Kubi ova pro nobis. There are places of worship for 
 Independents, Baptists, and Calvinistic and Wesleyan 
 
172 HOLYHEAD. 
 
 Methodists. There is also an endowed school, and a 
 national school for the gratuitous education of children. 
 
 The promontory called the Head, by which the harbour 
 is sheltered from the westerly winds, presents a singular 
 aspect, its sides towards the sea forming in some parts 
 immense perpendicular precipices, while in others they 
 are worn, by the continued action of the waves, into 
 caverns of magnificent and romantic appearance. Of 
 these, one called the "parliament house" is accessible 
 only by boats at half ebb tide, and consists of a series of 
 receding arches, supported by massy and lofty pillars of 
 rock, displaying an interior of picturesque beauty and 
 sublime grandeur. Some of these caverns afford shelter 
 for gulls, razor-bills, herons, cormorants, and other birds ; 
 and the loftiest crags are frequented by the peregrine fal- 
 con. The eggs of these birds are in great request as a 
 delicacy for the table ; and some of the hardiest inhabi- 
 tants are employed in the hazardous task of procuring 
 them for sale. 
 
 There are several ancient military forts in the neighbour- 
 hood, whose appearance indicates them to be of Roman 
 origin. At a small distance westerly, is a large hill, having 
 several natural and artificial curiosities. Within about 
 200 yards of the top, are the remains of a strong wall, 
 which seem to have belonged, as well as the churchyard 
 walls, to a place of defence against the frequent incursions 
 of the Irish. To the w. s. w. of the top, and nearly 
 under it, in a situation awfully romantic, are the remains 
 of a chapel. From the top of this mountain there is a 
 most extensive view, comprehending the Isle of Man, 
 the hill of Howth, on the Irish coast, and parts of the 
 Highlands of Scotland. 
 
 The South-stack light-house is connected with the 
 harbour, and materially contributes to facilitate its ac- 
 cess. It is erected on the summit of an isolated rock, 
 three or four miles westward from Holyhead, and sepa- 
 rated from the main land by a chasm ninety feet in width. 
 This splendid structure was raised in the year 1808. The 
 elevation of the summit of the rock on which it is erected, 
 is 140 feet above the level of the sea at high water mark; 
 the height of the tower, from the base to the gallery, is 
 60 feet ; and the lantern is 12 feet high from the gallery, 
 
HOLYHEAD HOLYWELL. 173 
 
 making the total elevation of the light 212 feet above 
 high water mark. The light is produced by twenty-one 
 brilliant lamps, with powerful reflectors placed on a re- 
 volving triangular frame, displaying a full-faced light 
 every two minutes, which, in clear weather, is distinctly 
 visible at a distance of ten leagues. The rough sea caused 
 by the strong tides, about the head, rendered the com- 
 munication by boat very precarious. In order to obviate 
 the danger, a passage was contrived by means of two 
 ropes thrown across the gulph, along which the individual 
 was drawn in a box or cradle, by the assistance of pul- 
 leys affixed at each end. This plan was superseded by a 
 bridge of ropes, which was used some years after, though 
 always considered unsafe, on account of the constant 
 wear of the ropes. In 1827, a modern suspension chain 
 bridge was thrown over the sound, the span of which is 
 110 feet, the chains being firmly bolted in the rock on 
 each side, and carried over two massive stone pillars 
 
 erected for the purpose The chain supports a platform 
 
 of timber five feet wide, and seventy feet above high 
 water mark. The bridge is attained by descending the 
 Holyhead mountain, in a zigzag direction, by a flight of 
 more than two hundred steps. 
 
 To the N. E. is the Isle of Skerries, on which is alight- 
 house ; notwithstanding which, frequent distressing cases 
 of shipwreck occur here. There are several good inns 
 at Holyhead, the principal of which are the Eagle and 
 Child, and the Hibernia Hotel. 
 
 HOLYWELL, 
 
 (FLINTSHIRE.) 
 
 Chester 18 Northop 6 
 
 Flint 5 Rhuddlan 11 
 
 London 207 St. Asaph 10 
 
 Mold 10 
 
 Holywell, called by the Welsh Treffynnon, or the 
 " town of the well," is a flourishing place on the great 
 road from Chester to Holyhead ; the town and parish 
 
174 HOLYWELL. 
 
 containing a population of 8969, with a very crowded 
 market on the Friday. 
 
 The town is pleasantly situated on the slope of a 
 mountain, which extends nearly to the estuary of the 
 Dee, about a mile and a half distant. The streets are 
 spacious and all paved ; the houses handsome and well 
 built — in High-street there are many elegant shops. The 
 town is lighted with gas, and abundantly supplied with 
 water by wells. 
 
 Winifred 9 s Well, from which the name of Holywell 
 was given to this place, is one of the most powerful 
 springs in the island, which issues from a rock at the 
 bottom of the town, and has been celebrated for many 
 ages for the miraculous efficacy traditionally related to 
 have been imparted to its waters by St. Winifred, to 
 whose memory, after her decease, the fountain was dedi- 
 cated. The well is covered by a small Gothic building, 
 said to have been erected by Margaret, the mother of 
 Henry VII. Nothing can exceed the delicacy and ele- 
 gance of the carving on the inside of this building, which 
 forms a canopy over the well. It contained the legend of 
 St. Winifred, and seven sculptures alluding to the house 
 of Stanley, by which it was erected, but not at present 
 distinguishable. In a niche opposite the entrance, stood 
 once a statue of the Virgin Mary, but this has long since 
 been destroyed. 
 
 The chapel over it, which is of the same date as the 
 other part of the building, is now converted into a charity 
 school. The well is an oblong square, about twelve feet 
 by seven. The water passes through an arch into a small 
 square court : under this arch the catholics used to swim 
 as an act of penance. The quantity of water thrown up 
 is not less than eighty-four hogsheads e very min ute . This 
 water has never been known to freeze, and scarcely ever 
 varies in quantity, either in drought, or after the greatest 
 rains. Though this stream has little more than a mile to 
 run, before it arrives at the sea, about a dozen mills, 
 forges, &c. are kept in motion by it, three of which are 
 placed abreast. 
 
 The legendary story of the origin of this well is sin- 
 gular and curious : Winifred, who is said to have lived in 
 the early part of the seventh century, was a beautiful and 
 
HOLYWELL. 175 
 
 devout virgin, the daughter of Thewith, a nobleman of 
 these parts, and niece to St. Beuno, who, having ob- 
 tained from her father leave to found a church upon his 
 possessions here, took her under his protection, in order 
 to assist her in her religious exercises. 
 
 Cradocus, the son of King Alyn, whose residence ap- 
 pears to have been not far distant, admired the beauty of 
 her person, and resolved an attempt upon her virtue. It 
 is said that he made known to her his passion on a Sunday 
 morning, after her parents were gone to church. She 
 made an excuse to escape from the room, and immediately 
 ran towards the church ; he overtook her, says the tra- 
 dition, on the descent of the hill, and enraged at the 
 disappointment, drew his sword, and struck off her head. 
 The head rolled down the hill to the altar, at which the 
 congregation were kneeling, and stopping there, a clear 
 and rapid fountain immediately gushed up. St. Beuno 
 snatched up the head, and joining it to the body, it was, 
 to the surprise of alL present, immediately re-united, 
 being only marked by a white line circling her neck ! ! ! 
 Cradocus dropped down upon the spot where he had 
 committed this atrocious act ; and the legend informs us, 
 that it is not known whether the earth opened to receive 
 his impious corpse, or whether his master the devil car- 
 ried him away. Winifred is said to have survived her 
 decapitation fifteen years, and to have died abbess of 
 Gwytherin, in Denbighshire. 
 
 This ridiculous story is suspected to have been invent- 
 ed by the monks of Basingwerk in the fourteenth century, 
 which proved a profitable source of emolument to the 
 brotherhood, from the devotees of the saint. Dr. Ful- 
 ler, in his coarse rough style, remarks, " that if the tip 
 of his tongue who first told, and top of his fingers who 
 first wrote this damnable lie, had been cut off, and they 
 had both been sent to attend their cure at the shrine of 
 St. Beuno, they would certainly have been more wary 
 afterwards, how they reported or recorded such impro- 
 bable untruths." Whatever sanative powers this stream 
 may have been supposed to possess in former days, it has 
 for a long time lost its reputation, and has now but very 
 few devotees. 
 
 The church, dedicated to St. Winifred, and re -built 
 
176 HOLYWELL. 
 
 in 1769, is a spacious structure of Grecian architecture, 
 sixty-eight feet long by fifty-six wide ; consisting of a 
 nave with north and south aisles, and a chancel, in which 
 is a handsome east window, embellished with modern 
 stained glass. It has also two large galleries over the 
 aisles, and the whole is calculated to contain about 3,000 
 persons. Remains of the ancient edifice are still seen in 
 
 the remarkably plain pillars on each side of the nave 
 
 It contains several monuments and tablets, and amongst 
 them one by Westmacott, erected to the memory of 
 Paul Panton, Esq. on the right side of the altar, claims 
 attention on account of the neatness of its design, and 
 elegance of its execution. 
 
 Under the chancel, are the vaults of the Mostyns of 
 Talacre, the Pennants of Bagillt, and the Pantons of 
 Bagillt ; in the chancel is a neat cenotaph, in memory of 
 Mary, mother to the late Edward Pennant, Esq. On 
 the wall, at the end of the same aisle, is a flat stone with 
 twelve quarterings, all correctly copied from those over 
 
 the chimney piece in the dining room at Mostyn The 
 
 church is situated at the bottom of a very steep hill, at 
 one end of the town, and so low that the prayer bell can 
 be heard only at a very little distance. This defect is 
 remedied by a person, hired by the inhabitants, who has 
 a leathern strap fastened round his neck, at the end of 
 which is suspended a bell of tolerable weight, and over 
 one of his knees is buckled a cushion. Thus accoutred, 
 he passes through the principal streets before the hour of 
 Divine Service, jingling the bell every time his cushioned 
 knee comes forward. 
 
 In rebuilding the church, the headless figure of a priest 
 was found, in his sacerdotal habit, and with a chalice in 
 his hand. He is supposed to have been Thomas, second 
 son of Thomas ap David, abbot of Basingwerk. This 
 headless trunk the sexton exhibits as the image of the 
 blessed St. Winifred. The ruse succeeds to the satisfac- 
 tions of the curious, and no doubt to the profit of the 
 antiquarian sexton. The steeple is plain and square, 
 embattled at the top, very strongly built, but without 
 any mark to denote the era of its erection. The present 
 incumbent, the Rev. J. Jones, was inducted in the year 
 1807. The service is alternately English and Welsh, and 
 
HOLYWELL. 177 
 
 at night there are lectures. Holywell contains several 
 chapels and meeting-houses for the various denominations 
 of dissenters. A Roman catholic chapel has lately been 
 erected. 
 
 The environs, which are enlivened with numerous 
 handsome residences and gentlemen's seats, abound with 
 richly diversified scenery ; and from the higher grounds 
 are obtained extensive and varied prospects over the 
 surrounding country, which is rich in picturesque beauty. 
 The undulating vallies are finely contrasted with the lofty 
 hills by which they are enclosed, and the richly wooded 
 eminences, with the fine stream by which the lower 
 grounds are intersected ; and in the distance, with the ex- 
 pansive waters of the Dee. The air is salubrious, and 
 the opportunities of cold and sea-bathing, render it not 
 only a pleasant place of permanent residence, but also of 
 occasional resort for invalids, for whose comfort every 
 accommodation is provided, with the benefit of good 
 medical advice, and the advantage of numerous pleasant 
 
 rides and walks in the immediate neighbourhood There 
 
 are several good inns in the town, the principal of which 
 are, the White Horse, King's Arms, King's Head, and 
 the Red Lion. 
 
 For many ages, the copious stream of St. Winifred 
 served only to turn a corn -mill belonging to Basingwerk 
 abbey, and it was not till the year 1777 that Holywell 
 began to emerge from obscurity, when Mr. Smalley in- 
 troduced the cotton manufacture, and erected a mill on a 
 principle similar to that of one built at Cromford, by 
 Sir Richard Arkwright. Soon after this, Mr. Smalley 
 was joined by an opulent company from Lancashire, and 
 erected, in 1783, a larger mill, now called the upper 
 mill, which works 12,218 spindles ; the same company, 
 in 1787, built the lower mill, adapted to the working 
 7492 spindles, and in 1791, the crescent mill, in which 
 8286 spindles are kept in motion. These mills are ap- 
 plied to the spinning of cotton thread, of which 26,098tb 
 is produced on an average weekly, furnishing employment 
 to nearly one thousand persons. 
 
 There are also, upon the same stream, several exten- 
 sive copper mills, for rolling sheet copper, the manufac- 
 ture of every description of copper vessels, copper bolts 
 
 M 
 
178 BASINGWERK ABBEY WATT'S DYKE. 
 
 used in ship building, and copper cylinders ; there is a 
 
 mill also for drawing copper wire, &c In these several 
 
 mills, more than a thousand tons of copper are annually 
 manufactured into the various articles above enumerated, 
 and several hundred hands are constantly employed in 
 them. Besides these, there is also a large iron foundery, 
 and a paper mill. 
 
 The district immediately around Holywell, is pre-emi- 
 nently distinguished for the richness of its mineral trea- 
 sures, and particularly for its mines of lead and calamine, 
 which appear to have been worked from the earliest pe- 
 riod, and continue still to form an almost inexhaustible 
 source of wealth. 
 
 Basingwerk Abbey, 
 or Maes-Glas, called also Greenfield Monastery, is situ- 
 ated in a meadow, about a mile east of Holywell, sur- 
 rounded with rich pastures, besides a happy disposition 
 of ancient groves of trees on every side, and a profusion 
 of sycamores. The shattered, time-worn remains, with 
 these appendages, are, from some points of view, highly 
 picturesque : — 
 
 The ivy now in rich luxuriance bends 
 
 Its tangled foliage through the cloister'd place : 
 
 O'er the green window's mouldering height ascends, 
 And fondly clasps it in a last embrace. 
 
 The little at present left of the abbey, is scarcely suf- 
 ficient to indicate what it was in its flourishing state 
 
 The church, which lay on the east side, is totally de- 
 stroyed. The refectory, till lately, was the most entire 
 part of the building, and had on one side a large recess, 
 with a couple of circular arches. 
 
 Near to the abbey, a castle formerly stood, but of this 
 scarcely a vestige remains visible. Close to this spot 
 also runs the celebrated Watt's Dyke, which terminates 
 
 at the Dee below It is clearly traced from hence 
 
 through Northop, Hope, Wrexham, and the grounds of 
 Wynnstay, to Maesbury, near Oswestry, where it ends. 
 Churchyard the poet, says a late writer, is almost the 
 only one who has not confounded this with Offa's Dyke. 
 
WATT'S DYKE DOWNING. 179 
 
 He assigns, as the object of its foundation, that the space 
 between the two, for they run to a considerable distance 
 nearly parallel with each other, was to be free ground, 
 where the Britons and Danes might meet for all commer- 
 cial purposes : — 
 
 There is a famous thing, 
 
 Called Offa's Dyke, that reacheth farre in length, 
 All kind of ware the Danes might thither bring, 
 
 It was free ground, and call'd the Briton's strength. 
 Watt's Dyke likewise about the same was set, 
 Between which two the Danes and Britons met, 
 And traffic still, but passing bounds by sleight, 
 The one did take the other pris'ner straight. 
 
 It has already been observed that there are several 
 gentlemen's residences in the neighbourhood of Holywell. 
 These mostly lie between the Holyhead turnpike road to 
 St. Asaph, and the estuary of the Dee. A few of them 
 are worthy of notice. About three miles north-west of 
 Holywell, is 
 
 Downing, 
 the seat of David Pennant, Esq. and formerly that of 
 Thomas Pennant, to whom the country is so much in- 
 debted for numerous excellent works on the history and 
 antiquities of the kingdom. The present house was 
 built, probably on the site of an older mansion, in 1627, 
 but has, particularly by the late and present owners, 
 undergone great improvements. At this mansion the 
 great antiquary was brought into the world, on the 26th 
 of June, 1726, and here also he closed his earthly career 
 on the 16th December, 1798. Happily for the world, he 
 has left a son and successor who does honour to the 
 name of such a father The walks are agreeable and di- 
 versified, particularly in the immediate vicinity of the 
 mansion, which is approached by a rural path, winding 
 through a beautiful and well- wooded dingle, 
 
 Where waving groves a chequer'd scene display, 
 And part admit, and part exclude the day. 
 
 Much taste is displayed in the laying out of the beauti- 
 
180 MYNYDD-Y-GARREG MOSTYN HALL. 
 
 fill garden ground, where a j udicious management and 
 an agreeable variety give the appearance of considerably 
 greater extent to this little paradise than it really lays 
 claim to. 
 
 About a mile and a half north-west of Downing, on 
 the summit of a lofty hill, stands 
 
 Mynydd-y-Garreg, 
 an ancient circular building of great height, in form not 
 much unlike a windmill. This is a Pharos, or Roman 
 light-house, erected by that people to conduct navigators 
 to and from the Deva. It is tolerably entire, and built 
 of lime-stone, bedded in hard mortar. The keen anti- 
 quary will not begrudge a walk to examine this ancient 
 relique, bequeathed to us by the conquerors of the 
 world. 
 
 Two miles north-west of Downing, lies the ancient 
 structure of 
 
 Mostyn Hall, 
 the property and residence of the Hon. Edward Mostyn 
 Lloyd Mostyn, nephew of the late Sir Thomas Mostyn, 
 and heir apparent of Lord Mostyn, of Pengwern. The 
 house is approached by a magnificent gateway, called 
 Porth Mawr, erected at the termination of a venerable 
 avenue of forest trees, leading to one vestibule of the 
 mansion, which stands in a small but beautiful park, 
 well clothed with wood. It is supposed to have been 
 erected as early as the time of Henry VI., but additions 
 and alterations have nearly obliterated its original cha- 
 racter. The old mansion, however, has a venerable 
 appearance, situate about half a mile from the estuary of 
 the Dee ; the park is beautifully broken, and clothed in 
 
 various parts with fine oaks and magnificent beeches 
 
 The ground slopes finely to the sea, facing to the north- 
 east, where trees grow close to the water's edge. 
 
 During the time that Henry, Earl of Richmond, was 
 secretly laying the foundation of the overthrow of the 
 house of York, he passed concealed from place to place, 
 in order to form an interest among the Welsh, who 
 favoured his cause on account of their respect to his 
 grandfather, Owen Tudor, their countryman. While 
 
LLANASA TALACRE. 181 
 
 he was at Mostyn, a party attached to Richard III. 
 arrived there to apprehend him. He was then about to 
 dine, but had just time to leap out of a back window, 
 and make his escape through a hole, which to this day is 
 called the King's window. Richard ap Howel, then 
 Lord of Mostyn, joined Henry at the battle of Bos worth, 
 and after the victory received from the King, in token of 
 gratitude for his preservation, the belt and sword he 
 wore on that day. 
 
 LLANASA, 
 
 (FLINTSHIRE.) 
 
 Holywell 6£ St. Asaph 10 
 
 Rhuddlan 6 
 
 The village of Llanasa is situated in a pleasant valley 
 at the northern extremity of the county, on the south- 
 western shore of the estuary of the Dee, near its influx 
 into the Irish sea. The church is much larger than the 
 generality of churches in Wales, having two east win- 
 dows, in the more ancient of which is some fine stained 
 glass, brought from Basingwerk abbey. The subject of 
 the centre compartment is the crucifixion ; the side figures 
 
 are Mary Magdalen, St. James, St. Lawrence, &c 
 
 The church-yard contains some curious tomb-stones. 
 The living is a vicarage in the diocese of St. Asaph ; 
 present incumbent the Rev. Henry Parry. 
 
 In the neighbourhood are several genteel residences, 
 and about two miles from the village is 
 
 Talacre, 
 the seat of Sir Edward Mostyn, a branch of the family 
 of the Mostyns of Mostyn. The old house was built in 
 the time of James I., but when the present Baronet came 
 into possession of the estate, it was razed to the ground 
 for the purpose of building another mansion on its site. 
 The first stone of the new house was laid by Sir Edward 
 Mostyn, on the 31st day of July, 1824. When the shell 
 was completed, the living part was burnt down by an 
 accidental fire on the night of the 11th September, 1827; 
 
182 TALACRE GYRN. 
 
 but, phoenix-like, it soon rose again fom its ashes, and 
 was finished in a magnificent style. The house is after 
 the old English style, and truly handsome, built from a 
 plan and under the superintendence of Thomas Jones, 
 Esq. architect, of Chester. 
 
 There is a tradition that Gronant Moor, which forms a 
 part of this tract of country, was formerly so extensive, 
 that the people on the Welsh side could hold communi- 
 cation over the channel with those of Cheshire. This, 
 says Mr. Pennant, may be exaggerated ; but from authen- 
 tic records, it appears that this flat was formerly much 
 more extensive than at present, and that it has been re- 
 duced to its present scanty limits by the ravages of the 
 sea, which now possesses its ancient place. 
 
 Previous to that catastrophe, it was possessed by the 
 see of St. Asaph, by virtue of a grant made by Edward 
 the Black Prince, son of Edward III. to Llywelyn ap 
 Madoc, elected Bishop of St. Asaph in 1357. Before 
 this event, the Bishop paid annually into the Exchequer 
 at Chester, as an acknowledgment, the sum of twenty 
 marks ; but Henry V. in 1414, and Henry VI. in 1445, 
 in consideration of the inundation, released the see from 
 that rent. If this record did not remain an incontestible 
 proof of the ravages of the ocean on this part of the 
 country, there exist other natural ones that would have 
 given reasonable grounds for suspicion. The Hoyle 
 sands, which run for twelve or fourteen miles parallel to 
 the hundred of Wirral, in Cheshire, and are divided 
 from Wales by a very narrow channel, were once, in all 
 probability, part of the firm land of England. A few 
 miles to the west of Gronant Moor, under the parish of 
 Abergele, are to be seen at low water mark, very remote 
 from the shore, bedded in the sand, immense numbers of 
 oak trees, a forest before this event. 
 
 Within a short distance of Llanasa, and situated on an 
 eminence opposite the great estuary of the Dee, near its 
 confluence with the Mersey, is 
 
 Gyrn, 
 the seat of John Douglas, Esq. It is a building in the 
 castellated style of English architecture, having several 
 lofty and elegant towers. It has a spacious and well- 
 
GYRN LLANBERIS. 183 
 
 furnished picture gallery, worthy the connoisseur's atten- 
 tion The south side overhangs the precipitous bank of 
 
 a small glen, along which extend several sheets of water. 
 The view from the summit of the high tower is very ex- 
 tensive, commanding the surrounding hills, and those of 
 Yorkshire, Derbyshire, and Staffordshire ; the Isle of 
 Man, Beeston Castle, Chester, and Liverpool, are also 
 in view ; and, in the opposite direction, a small part of 
 the Snowdonian chain may be observed. 
 About a mile from Llanasa, is 
 
 Golden Grove, 
 the admired residence of Edward Morgan, Esq. erected 
 in 1578 ; but it has been considerably improved and en- 
 larged within the last forty years. The house occupies a 
 sheltered situation among the hills, from whence the 
 prospect is extensive and pleasing. 
 
 LLANBERIS, 
 
 (CAERNARVONSHIRE.) 
 
 Bedd-gelert 12 Capel Curig 8 
 
 Caernarvon 10 Dolbadarn 2 
 
 This village, situated on the road between Caernarvon 
 and Capel Curig, derives its name from the dedication of 
 its church to St. Peris, a British or, as some affirm, a 
 Roman saint, who had been a cardinal of Rome, and 
 said to have resided in this celebrated spot with Padarn, 
 an anchorite about the sixth century, who had a cell, or 
 small chapel, in a meadow between Dolbadarn castle, 
 and old Dolbadarn inn, now called the " Snowdonia.' , 
 
 The church, situated in a deeply sequestered glen 
 about half a mile above the upper lake, is a small, low, 
 cruciform structure, principally in the later style of Eng- 
 lish architecture, with some portions of a much earlier 
 date, probably of the seventh century, which are parts 
 of the original edifice. The whole forms a neat and 
 venerable structure, in perfect accordance with its re- 
 tired situation, and the picturesque scenery by which it 
 is surrounded : two small chapels open into the chancel, 
 
184 LLANBERIS, 
 
 one on each side, in each of which, and also in the chan- 
 cel, is a good east window. 
 
 Near the church is the well of St. Peris, enclosed with 
 a wall, formerly famed for its miraculous efficacy in the 
 cure of diseases, and which, in Mr. Pennant's time, was 
 still in high esteem for the divinations of a sybil, accord- 
 ing to the appearance or non-appearance of a certain fish 
 lurking in some of its holes. A stile on the main road 
 conducts to the well, and the fish may be induced to ap- 
 pear by a small worm, or other bait being thrown into 
 the water. 
 
 The parish of Llanberis is very large in extent, and is 
 divided into two districts or townships, viz. Nant-ucha% 
 alias Nant-Peris, and Nant-isa', alias Nant-Padarn, and 
 comprises several of the loftiest mountains in the Princi- 
 pality, besides numerous natural objects worthy the re- 
 search of the tourist. 
 
 The village of Llanberis is romantic in the extreme. 
 It lies in a narrow grassy glen, surrounded by immense 
 rocks, whose cloud-capp'd summits are seldom visible 
 to the inhabitants below, who are also deprived of the 
 reflection of the sun for about three months in the winter. 
 " Nature has here, (says Camden, speaking of these 
 parts of Caernarvonshire) reared huge groups of moun- 
 tains, as if she intended to bind the island fast to the 
 bowels of the earth, and make a safe retreat for the 
 Britons in time of war. For here are so many crags and 
 rocks, so many wooded vallies, rendered impassable by 
 so many lakes, that the lightest troops, much less an 
 army, could never find their way among them. These 
 mountains may be truly called the British Alps ; for be- 
 sides that they are the highest in the whole island, they 
 are like the Alps, bespread with broken crags on every 
 side, all surrounding one, which, towering in the centre, 
 far above the rest, lifts its head so loftily, as if it meant 
 not only to threaten, but to thrust it into the sky." 
 
 All the parts immediately surrounding the village were 
 formerly covered with wood ; but, except some saplings 
 from the old roots, there are at present very few trees 
 left. In the memory of persons lately living, there were 
 great woods of oak in several parts of these mountains. 
 In the tenth century the whole country must have been 
 
LLANBERIS. 185 
 
 nearly covered with wood, for one of the laws of Howel 
 Dda, Howel the Good, directs, that " whoever cleared 
 away timber from any land, even without the consent of 
 the owner, he should, for five years, have a right to the 
 land so cleared ; and after that time, it should again revert 
 to the owner." 
 
 Of this celebrated pass, Mr. Bingley gives the follow- 
 ing description: «■ A bad horse-path led me from the 
 village of Llanberis into Cwm-glds,* The Blue Vale. 
 For four miles I was hemmed in on each side by high 
 rocks that almost approach each other. The sun cast a 
 sloping shade on those of the right, which fully marked 
 all their deepened hollows ; various in themselves, and 
 varied in their tints and colourings, I was at every step 
 interested by their terrific grandeur. They had no cha- 
 racters of softened beauty, there were here none of the 
 delicate features of a cultivated vale, not even a single 
 tree ; but rocks towered over rocks, till their summits 
 reached the clouds, whose partial gloominess added still 
 greater sublimity to the scene. 
 
 " Sometimes I beheld above me a gentle hollow, then, 
 a few steps further, the deepened precipice and towering 
 basaltic-like columns of an adjoining range of rocks. In 
 some places there appeared three or four ranges, one 
 above another, with the most fantastic outlines imagin- 
 able, and receding in distance as in height. The tints on 
 the prominences were of darkened purple, in the hollows 
 sombre, and olive-brown on the nearer ranges. The 
 foreground was overspread with masses of rock, and a 
 rapid mountain stream forced its way along the middle of 
 the narrow vale. Such is this tremendous hollow, whose 
 grandeur continues undiminished for almost four miles. 
 — The rocks on each side are almost perpendicular 
 throughout." 
 
 The upper lake at Llanberis, called also Llyn Peris, 
 is about a mile in length, and nearly half of one in 
 
 * It is necessary that the stranger should observe, that the 
 inhabitants will scarely recognize the name of this place 
 when pronounced in two distinct words, as Cwm Glds ; 
 they pronounce it as a compound, thus, Cwm-glds, accent- 
 ing the first syllable, 
 
186 DOLBADARN. 
 
 breadth ; though the least is the finest piece of water : 
 the depth is said, in places, to be one hundred and forty 
 
 yards The other, called Llyn Padarn, is about a mile 
 
 and a half long, but so narrow as to assume rather the 
 appearance of a river than a lake. Between these, a com- 
 munication is formed by a stream, and out of the lower 
 issues the river Seiont, which, after flowing in an irregu- 
 lar diffused manner, discharges itself into the Menai at 
 Caernarvon. 
 
 DOLBADARN, 
 
 Or, Padarn's Meadow, so called from Padarn, a British 
 saint of obscure note. Since the opening of the new line 
 of road from Caernarvon to Capel Curig, Llanberis has 
 become the principal resort of parties visiting Snowdon. 
 In addition to the spacious and comfortable inn at D61- 
 badarn, a new and more capacious house of entertainment, 
 called the Royal Victoria Hotel, has just been erected in 
 the most splendid style, near Dolbadarn castle, for the ac- 
 commodation of the increased number of visitors whom 
 this truly interesting district draws together in the summer 
 months. The hotel is erected in a most eligible situation, 
 at the junction of the two lakes, and within a few hun- 
 dred yards of Dolbadarn castle, about two miles from the 
 village of Llanberis, nearer to Caernarvon ; it was built 
 by T. Asheton Smith, Esq. Guides, and ponies accus- 
 tomed to the ascent, are provided at this house for tour- 
 ists who may be inclined to visit the summit of Snowdon, 
 and a cottage is about to be built on the mountain for 
 their accommodation. 
 
 The castle, standing near the junction of the two lakes 
 of Llanberis, is the only one that remains in all the nar- 
 row passes of North Wales. As it was impossible for an 
 enemy to climb the chain of mountains, which are a guard 
 to Caernarvonshire and Anglesey, and as there were five 
 narrow passes, the British secured each with a castle : 
 this was the central. What remains of it is a round turret 
 only, its inner diameter ten yards, and twenty-five yards 
 high, which seems to have been the principal part of this 
 fortress, for it occupies the whole of a small elevated 
 rock. One of the bastions of Caernarvon castle is nearly 
 the size of this ; it could not accommodate more than fif- 
 
DOLBADARN CEUNANT MAWR. 187 
 
 teen men. The British race of kings acted on a small 
 scale compared with the Norman. In this castle Owen 
 Goch was confined for upwards of twenty years, for 
 having joined in a rebellion against his brother Llywelyn 
 ap Gruffydd, the last Prince of Wales. It seems to have 
 been long in ruins, for in Leland's time there was only a 
 piece of a tower left. The key of the castle is kept at 
 the Victoria Hotel, and may be had by tourists on appli- 
 cation. 
 
 The view from hence is the most splendid imaginable, 
 embracing the two lakes, extending nearly three miles, 
 with the various interesting objects by which they are 
 surrounded, including the enormous chains of mountains 
 that bound the vale. Nothing can exceed the beauty of 
 the ruin as it appears from the lake : the promontory on 
 which it stands ; its image reflected from the crystal 
 waters ; the lofty mountains on each side ; the upper lake 
 stretching to the church of Llanberis, with Snowdon in 
 the back ground. 
 
 About half a mile south of the castle, at the end of a 
 deep glen, there is a tremendous cataract, called 
 
 Ceunant Mawr, 
 The waterfall of the great chasm. It is upwards of sixty 
 feet in height, and is formed by the mountain torrent from 
 Cwm Brwynog. This rushes through a cleft in the rock 
 above, and after coming in a direct line, suddenly takes 
 a turn with the broad stratum of the rock, and thus de- 
 scends aslant, with a thundering noise, into the deep 
 black pool below. 
 
 This valley, which for centuries witnessed the most 
 sanguinary scenes, is now become a theatre for the dis- 
 play of the arts, arising from more pacific times ; and the 
 wealth and comforts obtained by applying human energies 
 to subjects of science and utility, instead of rapine, plun- 
 der, and devastation. On the declivity of the mountain, 
 and nearly opposite Dolbadarn castle, on the eastern side 
 of the lake, are extensive slate quarries, the property of 
 of Thomas Asheton Smith, Esq. situated high among the 
 rocks ; the mode of conveying the slates down the al- 
 most precipitous descent, to the margin of the lake, was 
 formerly singularly awkward, and apparently very danger- 
 
188 LLANBERIS. 
 
 cms The carts, each conveying about one ton of slates 
 
 in winter, and two in summer, were drawn down a ser- 
 pentine path by one horse in front, and one hooked on 
 behind to counteract the rapidity of motion which other- 
 wise would endanger the whole. From the lake the slates 
 were carted in great quantities to the Menai, from whence 
 they were shipped to Ireland, Liverpool, America, &c. 
 To avoid this great labour and danger, about ten years ago, 
 a new rail-road was made from the quarries down to the 
 shipping place at Velin Heli, on the Menai, a distance of 
 about nine miles. By this road, the slates are conveyed 
 down at an average, it is said, of about 100 tons daily 
 throughout the year. At this place of activity, generally 
 designated by the name of " Dinorwic Slate Quarry," 
 above 1000 men are usually employed. 
 
 On the opposite side of the lake, and nearer to Caer- 
 narvon, at a place called Glyn fflionwy, there is another 
 quarry, the property of Lord Newborough, worked by 
 from 150 to 200 men ; and the slates are conveyed by 
 carts to Caernarvon. 
 
 This little valley can also boast of its mineral treasures. 
 A valuable copper mine is situated on the side of the up- 
 per lake, about half a mile from the village. A stream 
 of water, for the use of the mine, is conveyed along the 
 mountain on each side, and over the road, just at the 
 head of the lake, by means of a wooden conduit, sup- 
 ported by piers. The ore obtained, is, in general, what 
 is termed rich, on an average worth from £20 to £25 per 
 ton ; but the value consequently varies with the price of 
 copper. 
 
 When Mr. Pennant visited this valley, in 1784, he 
 found a surprising female, then aged ninety, named Mar- 
 garet ych Euan, whose character and exploits he records 
 as follows: — " This extraordinary female was the greatest 
 hunter, shooter, or fisher, of any of her time. She 
 kept a dozen at least of dogs, — terriers, greyhounds, and 
 spaniels, all excellent in their kinds. She killed more 
 foxes in one year than all the confederate hunts do in ten ; 
 rowed stoutly, and was queen of the lake ; fiddled excel- 
 lently, and knew all our old music ; she did not neglect 
 the mechanic arts, for she was a good joiner ; and at the 
 age of seventy was the best wrestler in the country, and 
 few young men dared to try a fall with her. 
 
LLANBERIS. 189 
 
 " Some years ago, she had a maid of congenial quali- 
 ties ; but death, that mighty hunter, at last earthed this 
 faithful companion of her's. Margaret was also black- 
 smith, shoemaker, boat-builder, and maker of harps. 
 She shoed her own horses, made her own shoes, and built 
 her own boats, while she was under contract to convey 
 the copper ore down the lakes. I must not forget, that 
 all the neighbouring bards paid their addresses to Mar- 
 garet, and celebrated her exploits in pure British verse. 
 At length she gave her hand to the most effeminate of 
 her admirers, as if pre-determined to maintain the supe- 
 riority which nature had bestowed upon her." 
 
 This wonderful female died about 1786, aged ninety- 
 two years. She has since been celebrated in some plea- 
 sant, but not very musical lines, by the late Mr. Hutton, 
 of Birmingham : — 
 
 'Mongst the rocks of Llanberis, where foot comes not nigh, 
 Nor eye sees their summit, except a bird's eye ; 
 Nor aught in the prospect appears to the sight, 
 But water and mountain — yet these give delight : 
 Quite silent for miles through these regions you go, 
 Except when the surly wind chuses to blow. 
 Robust are the females, hard labour attends them, 
 With the fist they could knock down the man who offends 
 
 them. 
 Here liv'd Peggy Evans, who saw ninety-two, 
 Could wrestle, row, fiddle, and hunt a fox too ; 
 Could ring a sweet peal as the neighbourhood tells, 
 That would charm your two ears — had there been any 
 
 bells ; 
 Enjoy 'd rosy health in a lodging of straw, 
 Commanded the saw-pit, and wielded the saw ; 
 And though she's deposited where you can't find her, 
 I know she has left a few sisters behind her. 
 
 It would appear from this and other relations, that the 
 vicinity of Llanberis has been noted for the production of 
 amazonian ladies. Mr. Bingley, who visited the neigh- 
 bourhood about twenty years after Mr. Pennant, gives us 
 an account of another female, not much unlike the pre- 
 ceding character "I was one day (says he) strolling 
 
190 LLANBERIS. 
 
 with my friend Williams along the vale, when he pointed 
 out to me a female well known in the village of Llan- 
 beris, and who, from the masculine tone of her voice, 
 her manners, and appearance, might have been a de- 
 scendant of Margaret ych Evans, called Caddy of Cwm~ 
 glds. This athletic female does not often visit the town 
 of Caernarvon ; but, whenever she does, the boys run 
 after her, and call her ' the woman with a beard.' 
 
 " Caddy* resides in Cwm-glas, a romantic vale, about 
 two miles from Llanberis. She is accustomed to mascu- 
 line employments of every description, and such is her 
 athletic power, that no man in the village would dare to 
 try a fall with her. Mr. Jones of the copper mine had 
 often rallied her on the subject of her great strength, and 
 told her that he did not believe half the stories that he 
 had heard related ; she, one day, in perfect good humour, 
 came behind him, as he was standing on the bank of the 
 pier near the stamping mill, and lifting him from the 
 ground, held him in her arm, though by no means a 
 
 small man, with great apparent ease over the water 
 
 * Now, Sir, (said she) I suppose you will belie ve that I 
 am tolerably strong ; you must confess it, or I shall throw 
 you in.' He immediately acknowledged her powers, and 
 was relieved from his predicament. 
 
 " A short time ago, a huge, raw-boned fellow entered 
 her cottage during her absence, and had collected to- 
 gether some eatables and clothes, with which he was 
 escaping just as she returned. Though this cottage is in 
 a very solitary situation, and she was entirely alone, she 
 resolutely went up and insisted on his returning every 
 thing he had taken. He opened his wallet, and gave up 
 the eatables. Supposing these to be all, she returned 
 with them to the cottage ; but soon after discovering that 
 a silk handkerchief, which she had left on the table, was 
 gone, she immediately seized one of the bars of a small 
 gate in her hand, and went in pursuit of the thief. She 
 overtook him in one of the most solitary parts of the 
 
 * This Catherine Thomas is now (1S35) living in the same 
 dwelling, universally respected by all her neighbours for her 
 integrity, hospitality, and industry ; still continuing to cul- 
 tivate her peaceful demesne. 
 
THE CROMLECH.— GORPHWYSFA. 191 
 
 vale, and, brandishing her cudgel about his ears, with 
 the utmost courage demanded resitution of the remainder 
 of her property. An answer she did not wait for, but 
 seizing the bag from the cowardly scoundrel, shook the 
 whole contents, with the most contemptuous air, upon 
 the ground. When she had selected her own property, 
 she threw the bag in the fellow's face ; and, after be- 
 stowing a hearty thwack with her cudgel on each of his 
 shoulders, left her opponent to comfort himself with the 
 idea of having escaped a more sound drubbing, which, 
 as she afterwards declared, she would have inflicted had 
 she thought it necessary." 
 
 About two miles above Llanberis church, on the Capel 
 Curig road, there is an immense stone, that has once 
 been precipitated from above, called 
 
 The Cromlech.* 
 This stone is of some thousand tons weight, and many 
 times larger than the clebrated mass of rock in Barrow- 
 dale, called Bowdar Stone. It lies in a place called 
 Ynys Hettws, Hetty's Island ; and two of its sides meet- 
 ing at an angle with the ground, it was once used as the 
 habitation of an old woman, who in summer resided in 
 the vale, to feed and milk her cows. The enclosures are 
 yet nearly entire, and are sometimes used as a sheep-fold. 
 
 GORPHWYSFA, 
 
 The Resting Place, the top of the ascent between Llan- 
 beris and Capel Curig four miles from the former, 
 overlooks a considerable part of this vale. It also 
 commands a view into the mountain vale, that joins Nan 
 Hwynan and the vale of Capel Curig. The vale of 
 Llanberis is narrow and almost straight, nearly filled with 
 two lakes, connected by a canal called Bala V Ddeulyn, 
 the Junction of the Two Lakes, celebrated (previous to 
 the opening of the copper mines) for the abundance of 
 the red and golden char. These fish are still caught in 
 
 * The term Cromlech, used to signify a Druidical altar, 
 cannot be properly attached to this stone ; it being quite im- 
 probable that it ever was used to such purpose ; but the con- 
 tinued action of the elements has placed it as it is. 
 
192 LLANDEGAI. 
 
 the lakes, though not so plentifully as formerly ; the char 
 is taken about the middle of September. 
 
 Angling Stations. 
 
 The upper and lower lakes. (Bad sport.) 
 
 Llyn Cwm Dwythog... 2 miles from Dolbadarn inn. 
 
 Llyn Llydan 5 on Snowdon. 
 
 Glaslyn on the west of ditto. 
 
 LLANDEGAI, 
 
 (CAERNARVONSHIRE.) 
 
 Aber 3£ Conway 10 
 
 Bangor 2 Port Pen rhyn 2 
 
 Near to the grand entrance to Penrhyn park, is the 
 much admired church and little village of Llandegai, hid 
 from the immediate view by a high wall, extending some 
 yards in the front. The parish extends more than fifteen 
 miles in length, from the shore of the Menai straits far 
 into the mountainous regions of Snowdon, including a 
 widely extended district, abounding with almost every 
 species of mineral treasure. The scenery of the neigh- 
 bourhood is beautifully picturesque and impressively 
 grand, comprehending on one side a vast amphitheatre of 
 mountains, and on the other side a fine view of the 
 Menai strait. 
 
 The church is one of the neatest in the Principality, 
 built in the form of a cross, having the tower in the cen- 
 tre. Its style is Gothic, and it is supposed to have been 
 erected about the reign of Edward III. Within the 
 church is a mural monument to the memory of John 
 Williams, Lord Keeper of the Great Seal in the reign of 
 James I., who died at Gloddaeth, and was interred in 
 this church in 1650. — This is placed in the wall on the 
 south side of the chancel, and he is represented in his 
 episcopal dress kneeling at the altar , there is a consider- 
 able air of elegance about it. There is also an elegant 
 marble monument erected to the memory of the late 
 Lord and Lady Penrhyn, executed by Westmacott. On 
 
PENRHYN CASTLE. 193 
 
 one side it is supported by a female peasant, deploring 
 the loss of the deceased, and on the other, by a quarry- 
 man, holding an iron bar and a slate knife, earnestly 
 reading the inscription which commemorates his benefac- 
 tors. Beneath are smaller figures, the first representing 
 a boy feeding his goats on the mountains, emblematical of 
 the state of the country when his Lordship commenced 
 his improvements ; the second, two boys working in a 
 slate-quarry, emblematical of industry ; the third is, one 
 boy teaching another to read the Bible, emblematical of 
 religion ; and the fourth, three boys with sickles in a 
 wheat field, denoting plenty. — Lord Penrhyn died in 
 1806. 
 
 Close to the village, and near to the spot where the 
 Chester and Shrewsbury turnpike roads join, stands 
 
 Penrhyn Castle, 
 now the magnificent seat of George Hay Dawkins Pen- 
 nant, Esq. who succeeded to this princely property on the 
 death of the late Lord and Lady Penrhyn. This house is 
 said to have been built on the site of a palace of Roderic 
 Molwynog, Prince of Wales, who began his reign in 720, 
 and long continued in possession of the Welsh Princes. 
 This ancient demesne has been a favourite subject of the 
 British muse from the earliest times. 
 
 Abode of native chiefs, of bards the theme, 
 Here princely Penrhyn soars above the stream, 
 And phoenix -like, in rising splendour drest, 
 Shows on its wide domain a regal crest : 
 Here Cambria opes her tome of other days, 
 And, with maternal pride, the page displays — 
 Dwells on the glorious list, and loves to trace 
 From Britain's genuine kings — her noblest race. 
 
 The estate came into the family of Pennant, partly by 
 the purchase of the late Lord Penrhyn's father, and partly 
 by his own marriage with Anne Susannah, daughter and 
 sole heiress of the late General Warburton, of Winning- 
 ton, in Cheshire. By this matrimonial compact, the two 
 moieties, which had for some time been divided, became 
 united ; and his Lordship having no issue, the immense 
 
 N 
 
194 PENRHYN CASTLE. 
 
 estates devolved upon the present possessor. The late 
 Lord Penrhyn made very considerable alterations in the 
 buildings ; and his successor, whose public spirit well 
 accords with that of his Lordship, and whose generous 
 munificence has endeared him to the surrounding district, 
 has been long engaged in rebuilding the whole on an ex- 
 tensive scale, and in a magnificent style, so as to render 
 it one of the most complete castellated baronial mansions, 
 perhaps, in the kingdom. It is built in the ancient style of 
 architecture, of Mona marble, and displays a magnificent 
 range of building, crowned with lofty towers, of which 
 five are circular : the keep, and another of the principal 
 towers, are square, with angular turrets. The internal 
 decorations correspond with the magnificence of the ex- 
 terior ; the mantle-pieces and other ornaments being made 
 of Mona marble also, which admits of a very high polish ; 
 the furniture is extremely elegant. 
 
 The situation is unrivalled in this, or perhaps in any 
 other part of Great Britain, commanding a complete 
 view of Beaumaris bay, the towns of Bangor and Beau- 
 maris, together with Baron-hill, the Fryars, and 
 Beaumaris castle, and a great part of the island of Angle- 
 sey, Priestholme island, Ormeshead, Pemaen Mawr, 
 and the whole of the stupendous range of the Caernar- 
 vonshire mountains, terminating in the peaks of the 
 Rivals, near Clynnog. There are several lodges forming 
 entrances to the park, all elegant in their design, and 
 lofty in their elevation ; the principal lodge, which is 
 near the junction of the London and Chester roads, is a 
 stately and beautiful specimen of the architecture of the 
 whole. A grand massive substantial gate-way, on a cor- 
 responding plan, has been completed ; together with a 
 handsome park wall, thirteen feet high, and seven miles 
 in circuit. 
 
 There is also an elegant chapel near the house, for the 
 accommodation of the family ; and on the beach there 
 are handsome and commodious hot and cold baths, built 
 by the late Lady Penrhyn. The stables are considered 
 among the first in the kingdom, for elegance and accom- 
 modation. The building has a handsome facade, fronted 
 with patent slate, and the pilasters which divide the 
 stalls, together with the mangers, are of the same ma- 
 
PENRHYN CASTLE. 195 
 
 terial. Indeed, this very valuable article appears to be 
 converted, on the Penrhyn demesne, to every possible 
 use. The park is fenced with narrow upright slate slabs, 
 cut in imitation of palisadoes, and fixed by pins to oaken 
 railings, which find their support in posts formed of 
 cubic slate. 
 
 In this mansion is still preserved a Hirlas or drinking 
 horn, of the hero Piers Gruffydd, perhaps the only ele- 
 gant specimen of that kind of utensil, elucidatory of an- 
 cient manners, at present subsisting. It is a large bugle 
 of an ox, ornamented with enchased silver, and suspend- 
 ed by a chain of the same metal, having the initials of 
 his own name and family engraved at the end. In the 
 royal court of Cambria, there were legally three sorts of 
 
 horns for the purpose of public or private libations - 
 
 The first was y corn ydd yvo y brenin, or the one solely 
 appropriated to the King's use ; second, corn cyweithas, 
 by which the domestics of the palace were summoned to 
 duty ; and third, corn y pencynydd, committed to the 
 custody of the chief huntsman. 
 
 On grand occurrences, the domestics of the palace 
 were permitted to drink out of the sovereign's horn ; 
 and the chamberlain or high steward, on such occasions, 
 furnished handsome potations of the generous metheglin. 
 The contents of the horn, at these times assumed the 
 name of the sacred potion, similar to the wassail bowl, 
 or the apostle's cup, in use among the Saxons. Ulphus, 
 when he conveyed certain lands to the church at York, 
 is said to have quaffed off the contents of such a vessel, 
 drinking a health, Deo et sancto Petro, to God and St. 
 Peter. On festive days, the imperative custom was to 
 empty the horn at one tip, and instantly blow it, as a 
 testimony that no dereliction of draught had occurred. 
 
 It would exceed our limits to enter into a minute de- 
 tail of all the improvements made by the late Lord Pen- 
 rhyn in this very interesting parish and its flourishing 
 neighbourhood : suffice it to say, that about forty years 
 ago, this part of the country bore a most wild, barren, 
 and uncultivated appearance ; but it is now covered with 
 handsome villas, well-built farm-houses, neat cottages, 
 rich meadows, well cultivated fields, and flourishing 
 plantations ; bridges have been built, new roads made, 
 
196 SLATE QUARRIES. 
 
 bogs and swampy grounds drained and cultivated, neat 
 fences raised, and barren rocks covered with woods. In 
 fact, what has been accomplished in this neighbourhood 
 in so short a space of time may be denominated a new 
 creation, and that principally by means of one active and 
 noble-minded individual, who disposed of his vast re- 
 sources in various acts of improvement ; and by so do- 
 ing, has given employment to thousands of his fellow- 
 men, who have thus been rendered comfortable and 
 happy. 
 
 Slate Quarries. 
 
 The slate quarries at Cae Braich y Cafn, in the vicinity 
 of Nant Francon, the most considerable in Wales, are 
 the property of the family of Penrhyn castle. The rock 
 has been opened at a great expense, and the quarries are 
 worked with judgment and to a vast extent, as there are 
 about fifteen hundred persons continually employed ; it 
 is computed that above two hundred tons, or upwards, of 
 slates are daily conveyed down to Port Penrhyn, whence 
 they are exported to various parts of the kingdom, to 
 Ireland, and to America. These quarries were discover- 
 ed so far back as the time of Queen Elizabeth. In 1740 
 the slates were all of one size, and very small. But 
 when Lord Penrhyn took the quarries into his own hands, 
 which was about 1782, his Lordship cleared the rubbish, 
 which had been accumulating for ages, and opened these 
 quarries in a judicious and scientific manner, and at a 
 vast expense. His Lordship also constructed an iron 
 rail- way from these quarries to Port Penrhyn, being a 
 distance of six miles, which alone is said to have cost 
 him £170,000. 
 
 On the arrival of the visitor, he should, if possible, 
 obtain permission to accompany one of the overlookers 
 of the works in his round, rather than trust to the casual 
 guidance of any idler that may be found lurking about 
 with the intention to proffer assistance ; as the sole object 
 of the latter is to procure payment, without giving him- 
 self much trouble in pointing out the wonders of the 
 place. Should he be successful, the intelligent and com- 
 municative spirit of his guide will amply repay the diffi- 
 culty he may have experienced in finding him. 
 
SLATE QUARRIES. 197 
 
 He will be conducted to every ledge of the mountain, 
 up an inclined plane, till he reaches the summit, and will 
 have an opportunity of seeing the whole process of the 
 slate manufacture. In one place he will discover the 
 workmen aloft, suspended by ropes against the precipi- 
 tous side of the rock, busily employed in splitting down 
 every projecting shelf of the blue steganium ; in another, 
 persons employed in the laborious occupation of boring, 
 for the purpose of filling the orifice with gunpowder, to 
 rend the rock from the immense mass to which it is at- 
 tached ; others occupied in removing the rubbish of which 
 so many years labour has produced a wonderful accumu- 
 lation r and numbers in splitting the detached masses, and 
 cutting them into a variety of sizes, denominated Duch- 
 esses, Countesses, Ladies, &c. which names were be- 
 stowed by General Warburton about the year 1765. 
 This process is executed with astonishing rapidity. Then 
 may be heard the alarum shout, betokening that a fusee 
 is lighted and will soon explode, warning those employed 
 in the vicinity to secure themselves from danger ; and, in 
 a few moments, the explosion itself rattles through the 
 extensive levels with terrific grandeur. It cannot be ex- 
 pected that accidents amongst the workmen are of rare 
 occurrence ; on the contrary, they too frequently happen, 
 for scarce a week passes without some poor fellows meet- 
 ing with severe bodily injury ; but this is solely to be at- 
 tributed to their own negligence of the proper precaution. 
 
 Portions of the mountain are farmed by individuals, 
 who pay a price consonant with the value or quality of 
 the sub-stratum, and employ workmen to remove and 
 fit it for exportation ; when they receive so much per 
 thousand, in the same ratio, for the amount of their ex- 
 ertions. There is a strong spring of water at the top of 
 the mountain, which is conveyed by a large wooden pipe 
 to the bottom, and there rendered serviceable in turning 
 an immense cutting mill. A few hundred yards distant, 
 also, are several mills of this description, where large 
 pieces, of rock are cut into grave stones, and into the re- 
 quisite sizes for roofing houses, and for the use of 
 schools, &c. 
 
 St. Ann's chapel, near the quarries, was erected and 
 liberally endowed by the late Lord Penrhyn ; and Lady 
 
198 OGWEN BANK LLANDUDNO. 
 
 Penrhyn left a sum for an organ, and a suitable stipend 
 for the organist. Within a short distance of the slate quar- 
 ries, is the beautiful cottage of the late Lady Penrhyn, 
 called 
 
 Ogwen Bank. 
 It is now used by Mr. Pennant's family as an occasional 
 resort on paying a morning visit to the quarries, or other 
 objects of curiosity in the neighbourhood. The style is 
 florid Gothic, and shows great taste in the design. The 
 centre contains an elegant room, the front of it forming 
 the segment of a circle ; the wings contain a coach-house 
 and stabling. Over the river Ogwen, in a rough and 
 picturesque part of it, is a bridge corresponding with the 
 house. All visitors to the house are requested to sign 
 their names in a book kept for the purpose. This beau- 
 tiful cottage is hid from the road by the trees and plan- 
 tations. 
 
 LLANDUDNO, 
 
 (CAERNARVONSHIRE.) 
 
 Abergele 16 Conway 5 
 
 Llandudno church is situated near the promontory of 
 Ormeshead, which forms the eastern boundary of the 
 entrance into Beaumaris bay. This vast unconnected 
 rock has, without doubt, been formerly an Island, as at 
 present it is joined to the main land only by a narrow 
 neck of low marshes. It consists entirely of lime-stone, 
 very pure and hard, of which no use is made. Some 
 copper is procured from two mines near the top of the 
 mountain, one of them belonging to a Liverpool com- 
 pany, the other to the Hon. E. M. LI. Mostyn. 
 
 Towards the sea, the cliffs are very abrupt, and hol- 
 lowed into various inaccessible caverns by the dashing of 
 the waves. In this retreat, multitudes of gulls, cormo- 
 rants, herons, razor-bills, ravens, and rock-pigeons, 
 have taken up their abode ; some of the steepest crags 
 are inhabited by the peregrine falcon, a species much in 
 request when falconry was a fashionable amusement. — 
 
LLANDUDNO. — LLANEDWEN. 199 
 
 The hazardous method practised here, and at the oppo- 
 site rocks of Priestholm island, of gathering the rock 
 samphire, suspended over the cliffs by a rope, has been 
 strikingly described by the great poet of nature : — 
 
 How fearful 
 And dizzy 'tis, to cast one's eyes so low : 
 The crows and choughs that wing the midway air, 
 Seem scarce so gross as beetles, half way down, 
 Hangs one who gathers samphire ; dreadful trade ! 
 
 The western side of the promontory is one vast pre- 
 cipice ; the mountain extends into the plain above the 
 village, forming a precipitous eminence, the summit of 
 which is called Dinas, and is surrounded with a wall of 
 loose stone, very rudely formed, within which are the 
 foundations of numerous circular buildings, varying in 
 diameter from twelve to thirty feet, and arranged round 
 the west and south sides of the mountain. In the centre 
 is a rocking-stone, called Cryd Tudno, or the " Cradle 
 of St. Tudno ;" and on an eminence are the ruins of a 
 large square building, of which the walls, apparently 
 constructed without mortar, lie scattered in various di- 
 rections. On the highest point of the promontory, and 
 near the Great Ormeshead, a signal staff has been erect- 
 ed, communicating with Llysfane on the east, and Puffin 
 Island on the west, forming thereby a post of communi- 
 cation between Liverpool and Holyhead. 
 
 The parish of Llandudno contains six hundred and 
 sixty-two inhabitants. 
 
 LLANEDWEN, 
 
 (ANGLESEY.) 
 
 Llanidan 2 Moel y Don 3 
 
 Llanedwen is a small village where Henry Rowlands, 
 the learned author of Mona Antiqua Restauratu, was in- 
 terred. He was instituted to the vicarage of this place 
 in October, 1696, and died 1723. He lies under a black 
 slab of Anglesey marble, in the south part of the church. 
 
200 LLANELIAN, 
 
 LLANELIAN, 
 
 (ANGLESEY.) 
 
 Amlwch 2 Beaumaris 20 
 
 This is a small village on the eastern coast of Angle- 
 sey. The church, dedicated to St. Elian, is supposed to 
 have been founded by the patron saint about 540. It is 
 by no means an inelegant structure ; and adjoining to it 
 is a small chapel, of very ancient foundation, that 
 measures in its interior twelve feet by fifteen, called 
 Myfyr, the confessional. A curious closet of wood, of an 
 hexagonal form, . called St. Elian's closet, is yet left in 
 the east wall, and is supposed to have served both the 
 office of a communion table, and as 'a chest to contain 
 the vestments and other utensils belonging to the chapel. 
 Near to the door is placed CyfF Elian, Elian's chest \ or 
 poor box. People out of health send their ofFe rings to 
 the saint, which are put through a hole into the box. 
 
 At the wake of Elian, which occurs in the month of 
 August, great numbers of young persons assemble here, 
 most of whom have along with them some offering for 
 the saint, to ensure their future prosperity, palliate their 
 offences, and secure blessings on their families, their cat- 
 tle, and their corn. The rustic devotees assemble about 
 the chapel, and having deposited their offerings, many of 
 them proceed to search into their future destiny in a very 
 singular manner, by means of the wooden closet. Per- 
 sons of both sexes, of all ages and sizes, enter the small 
 door- way, and if they can succeed in turning themselves 
 round within the narrow limits of the place (which 
 measures only betwixt three and four feet in height, 
 about four feet across the back, and eighteen inches wide), 
 they believe they shall be fortunate till at least the en- 
 suing wake ; but if they do not succeed in this difficult 
 undertaking, they esteem it an omen of ill fortune, or of 
 their deaths within the year. This superstitious practice 
 however is on the decline ; the wonder is, that it has 
 
 been continued so long At Point Lynas, near this 
 
 place, a light-house of considerable dimensions is about 
 to be constructed. 
 
LLANERCH-Y-MEDD LLAXERVUL. 201 
 
 LLANERCH-Y-MEDD, 
 
 (ANGLESEY.) 
 
 Amlwch 6 Holyhead 16 
 
 Beaumaris 17 London 263 
 
 Llanerch-y-medd is a considerable town, with a mar- 
 ket on Wednesday, deriving its importance chiefly from 
 its proximity to the Parys mountain, on the northern 
 side of Anglesey. An establishment has lately been set 
 np in this town for the manufacture of snuff, in imitation 
 
 of the celebrated article of Lundy Foot, of Dublin 
 
 It has found some customers in many of the provincial 
 towns in England, but it is very doubtful, though sold at 
 a less price, whether it will ever acquire a celebrity equal 
 to its Irish rival. There is a small but comfortable inn 
 at this place. 
 
 LLANERVUL, 
 
 (MONTGOMERYSHIRE.) 
 
 Dolgellau 24 Mallwyd 13 
 
 Llanfair 5 Newtown 14 
 
 • Machynlleth 25 Welshpool 12 
 
 This interesting little village is pleasantly situated on 
 the banks of the river Banwy, and at the lower extremity 
 of a narrow vale of about seven miles in length. The 
 houses are but few in number and indifferently built, ex- 
 cept the Cross Foxes Inn, which is of modern appearance, 
 and affords good accommodation. The situation of the 
 village being on the turnpike road from Shrewsbury to 
 Machynlleth and Dolgellau, causes it to be much enli- 
 vened in the summer season, by coaches passing through, 
 conveying travellers to the bathing places at Aberystwyth 
 and Barmouth. 
 
 The parish, extending nearly eight miles in length, and 
 about three in breadth, is divided into six townships, 
 comprising a population of about 1000, chiefly employed 
 in agriculture. The lands are but partially enclosed and 
 
202 LLANERVUL. 
 
 cultivated, the hilly parts affording only pasturage for 
 sheep, young cattle, and Welsh ponies, during the sum- 
 mer; but the soil of the lower grounds is tolerably fertile, 
 and when properly cultivated, is capable of producing 
 grain of every kind. Within this parish, on the moun- 
 tains, are several lakes of considerable extent and depth, 
 and some of them containing great abundance of fish, 
 chiefly trout and eels. No minerals have been yet found 
 in this neighbourhood, except a few specimens of copper 
 ore, which were dug up several years ago in the town- 
 ship of Coed-talog. A company of adventurers, in the 
 spring of 1797, began to sink for coal at Govylchau ; but 
 met with no success. On the summit of Craig -y-go\ 
 are some traces of mining, at the foot of the declivity, 
 facing Llanvihangel parish ; these are supposed to be of 
 Roman origin. 
 
 The most ancient manor-house in these parts is Neuadd- 
 wen, (the White-hall) in this parish. This was formerly 
 the seat of Meredydd ab Cynan, brother of Gruffydd ab 
 Cynan, Prince of North Wales, who served the Princes 
 of Powys, and was termed Lord of Bhiw-hiriaeth, Coed- 
 talog, and Neuadd-wen. Some genealogists say that he 
 was Meredydd ab Cynvyn, and brother to Bleddyn ab 
 Cynvyn, Prince of Powys. The estate of Neuadd-wen 
 was divided and sub-divided, according to the custom of 
 gavel-kind, until the time of Evan ab Owen, the last of 
 the line of Meredydd ab Cynan, whose two daughters 
 were married, the one to the Llwydiarth family, the other 
 to that of Newtown Hall. In a heap of rubbish, at the 
 back of the present farm-house of Neuadd-wen, were 
 found pieces of free-stone, with mouldings, which ap- 
 peared to be the ruins of an arched window. The build- 
 ing seemed to have been Gothic, according to the taste 
 of the 11th and 12th century. It is probable that the 
 name of Neuadd-wen was given to the new structure, 
 for there is a tradition that its former appellation was Llys 
 Wgan, which is corroborated by the fact, that a rivulet 
 near the house is still called Nant Wgan. 
 
 Adjoining Neuadd-wen lies the capital farm of Llysyn, 
 formerly the estate of Ieuan ab Bedo Gwyn, descendant 
 of a cadet branch of the family of Neuadd-wen. This 
 estate was afterwards purchased by the Herberts, and 
 
LLANERVUL. 203 
 
 made the residence of some branches of that family, an- 
 cestors to the present Earl of Powys. The name of 
 Llysyn seems to be a contraction of Llys-dyddyn, i. e. 
 the Court-farm. Probably the Princes of Powys had 
 here a court of judicature. 
 
 This parish contains the vestiges of several tumuli, forts, 
 and ramparts, such as those at Moel-y-ddolwen, Gardden, 
 JRhos-y-gallt, Sfc. ; but the most singular vestige of anti- 
 quity here is that of the Roman causeway, called Sarn- 
 Sws, or Sam- Sw sen, which leads from the old Roman 
 station of Caer-Sws, near Llanidloes , to Chester ; or as 
 some will have it, from Caerlleon-ar-Wysg, in Mon- 
 mouthshire, to Caerll'eon-ar-Ddyfrdwy , or Chester on 
 the Dee. This road enters the parish of Llanervul on 
 the hills of the Drum, and thence descends through the 
 farms of Cae'r-Bachau, Cynniwyll, Sfc, and crosses the 
 river Banwy below Neuadd-wen, and then up Craig-y-gd', 
 whence it proceeds through the parish of Llanvihangel ; 
 and Dr. Worthington says it might be traced through the 
 parish of Llanrhaiadr-yn-Mochnant, at Street- Vawr, near 
 Coed-y-Clawdd, over Rhos-y-brithdir to Pen-y- Street, 
 and thence to Llamiwrch, Sfc. In some places the pave- 
 ment may be found a little below the surface. 
 
 The church of Llanervul is dedicated to Urvul Santes, 
 a female saint, whose pedigree is not known ; some sup- 
 pose that the ancient tomb-stone in the churchyard was 
 erected to her memory ; but the inscription does by no 
 means corroborate that supposition, which as far as it can 
 be deciphered, runs thus ; — 
 
 HIC IN 
 TVMVLO IA 
 
 CIT EI STE 
 
 C..E FILIA PA 
 TERNINI 
 AN IXIII 
 IN PAX 
 
 Mrs. Priscilla Forster, a descendant of the family of the 
 Herberts of Llysyn, bequeathed £300 for the instruction 
 of the poor children of the parish : this sum was invested 
 in the purchase of a farm near the village, now considered 
 
204 LLANNERVUL LLANFAIR. 
 
 worth £35 per annum, which is appropriated agreeably 
 to the intentions of the benevolent testatrix. About 
 forty years ago, a new house, with school-room attached, 
 was built upon the land, previous to which the school 
 used to be kept in the church. 
 
 The living is a rectory, in the patronage of the Bishop 
 of St. Asaph. A new house has recently been built upon 
 the glebe land, adjacent to the village, for the residence 
 of the clergyman. The present incumbent is the Rev. 
 John Lloyd, who is also a magistrate of the county. 
 
 LLANFAIR,* 
 
 (ANGLESEY.) 
 
 Llangefni 5 Pentraeth 2£ 
 
 This village is celebrated as the birth place of Goron- 
 wy Owen, of whom Mr. Lewis Morris says, that " he 
 was the greatest genius either of this age, or that ever 
 appeared in our country ; and perhaps few other countries 
 can boast his equal for universal knowledge." He was 
 born in 1722, had the rudiments of his education at the 
 Grammar school of Bangor, whence, in 1741, he went 
 to Oxford ; but from the poverty of his parents, he was 
 supported in that University by the munificence of Mr. 
 Lewis Morris. Four years afterwards, he received holy 
 orders at Bangor, and became curate to the Bishop at 
 Llanfair. From hence he was removed to make way for 
 one of the Bishop's friends. He successively held the 
 curacy of Donnington, near Shrewsbury, and Walton, 
 near Liverpool ; but having now a wife and family, seems 
 to have been starving upon his slender stipend. 
 
 In hope of better fortune, he repaired to the metropo- 
 lis, but unbefriended as he was, he sought it in vain 
 
 At length, a clerical vacancy having oocurred in Virginia, 
 necessity compelled him to expatriate himself to that dis- 
 tant country, to which he sailed in the year 1757. The 
 
 * There being several parishes of this name in the Princi- 
 pality, this is distinguished by the adjunction of Mathavarn- 
 eithav* 
 
LLANFAIR. 205 
 
 taste, manners, and morals of the Virginians were offen- 
 sive and disgusting to this son of misfortune ; he lost by 
 death his wife and children, all but one boy, and he him- 
 self, while yet but comparatively a young man, sunk to 
 the silent grave under the pressure of accumulated mis- 
 fortunes. The acquirements of Goronwy Owen were 
 very extensive. To a perfect acquaintance with the 
 Latin and Greek languages, he added a knowledge of the 
 Hebrew, Chaldee, Arabic, and Syriac. His Latin odes 
 have been universally admired for the purity of their lan- 
 guage, and for the elegance of their expression. As a 
 Welsh poet, he ranks superior to all since the days of 
 Dafydd ap Gwilym. Those parts of his work that have 
 been printed, are considered as perfect models of Welsh 
 poetry. How accurately is the poet's sentiment exem- 
 plified in this unfortunate individual — 
 
 Full many a rose is born to blush unseen, 
 And waste it's sweetness on the desert air. 
 
 It has been lately announced that a grandson of the 
 bard is now living in the United States, and is a Member 
 of the Congress. 
 
 LLANFAIR, 
 
 (MONTGOMERYSHIRE.) 
 
 Can-Office 7 Newtown 10' 
 
 Dinas Mowddwy 18 Oswestry 20 
 
 Mallwyd 16 Welshpool 8 ( 
 
 Llanfair, or Llanfair-Caer-Einion, a small market 
 town, pleasantly situated on the declivity of an eminence, 
 rising from the south bank of the small river Banwy, 
 which falls into the Vyrnwy, and on the turnpike road 
 leading from Welshpool to Machynlleth and Dolgellau, 
 containing 2687 inhabitants. It has a church, dedicated 
 to St. Mary, an ancient structure, in the early style of 
 English architecture, and five places of worship for dis- 
 senters. The Vyrnwy abounds with such a quantity and 
 variety of fish, as justly to entitle it to the name of Am- 
 
206 LLANFA1R LLANFYLLIN LLANGOLLEN. 
 
 nis Piscosus. The inhabitants of this place are said to 
 excel in the practice of spearing fish. 
 
 Angling Stations. 
 
 Myfod (Meivod) 5 miles on the Vyrnwy. 
 
 Llangynyw 2£ 
 
 Llanervul 5 
 
 LLANFYLLIN, 
 
 (MONTGOMERYSHIRE.) 
 
 Mallwyd 20 Shrewsbury 25 
 
 Welshpool 12 London 178 
 
 Oswestry 14 
 
 A market town of some note, situate in a fertile valley 
 on the banks of the river Cain, surrounded by lofty 
 hills. The market is held on Thursday. Population, 
 1900. 
 
 In the centre of the town stands the church (erected 
 when the excellent Dr. Beveredge was Bishop of the 
 diocese), a neat brick building, dedicated to St. Myllin. 
 The peal of bells surpasses any in the county. Here are 
 three endowed schools ; a good town-hall, which stands 
 also in the centre of the town, was built in 1775. 
 
 Bod-Fach, near this town, the seat of Lord Mostyn 
 (late Sir Edward Pryce Lloyd, Bart.) was once the re- 
 sidence of his paternal ancestors, the Kyfiins. The mar- 
 kets and fairs of Llanfyllin are well attended, particu- 
 larly for the purchase of Welsh merlins, which are 
 brought here for sale in great numbers. 
 
 LLANGOLLEN, 
 
 (DENBIGHSHIRE.) 
 
 Chester 23 Oswestry 12 
 
 Chirk 7 Ruthin 15 
 
 Corwen 10 Wrexham 12 
 
 London 183 
 
LLANGOLLEN. 207 
 
 The name of this place is derived from the dedication 
 of its church to an ancient British saint named Collen. 
 The town, which is beautifully situated in a deep narrow 
 valley, enclosed by lofty mountains, and watered by the 
 noble stream of the Dee, appears anciently to have been 
 protected by the neighbouring fortress of Castell Dinas 
 Bran, situated on the summit of a vast conical hill in its 
 neighbourhood. The houses of the town are in general 
 old or rather mean in appearance, though occasionally in- 
 terspersed with some modern handsome dwellings ; and 
 there is excellent accommodation for numerous visitors 
 who frequent the neighbourhood during the summer sea- 
 son. The Hand, the King's Head, and the Royal Hotel, 
 are the principal inns. The mail arrives at this place on 
 its way from London to Holyhead at 40 minutes after 2 in 
 the afternoon, and from Holyhead to London at 10 
 minutes before 12 in the morning. Population, 1500. 
 
 Here is a stone bridge over the Dee, consisting of four 
 pointed arches, erected in the year 1345, by John Trevor, 
 Bishop of St. Asaph, and which was anciently regarded 
 as one of the wonders of North Wales. The situation 
 of Llangollen, on the mail coach road from London 
 through Shrewsbury to Holyhead, causes it to be enliven- 
 ed by the daily passage of travellers ; and its inhabitants 
 derive considerable advantage from the number of persons 
 who visit it in the summer season, and make this their 
 temporary abode, for the purpose of enjoying the scenery 
 of the neighbourhood, which is equally pre-eminent for 
 its grandeur and sublimity, and for its picturesque and 
 romantic beauty. 
 
 The church is an ancient structure, partly in the early 
 style of English architecture. The service is performed 
 in the English language only on the second Sunday in 
 each month, in the morning ; on the afternoon of every 
 other Sunday, the service is partly English and partly 
 Welsh, the sermon being in the former language. There 
 is also English service in the afternoon of the first Sunday 
 in each month at Trevor chapel, three miles on the Wrex- 
 ham road, and at Llandysilio on the third Sunday in the 
 month. 
 
 The market is held on Saturday, and is well supplied 
 with butchers' meat, but very little corn is sold. By the 
 
208 LLANGOLLEN VALE PLAS NEWYDD. 
 
 late act for amending the representation, Llangollen has 
 been made a polling place in the election of knights for 
 the shire. 
 
 Llangollen Vale, 
 an object long celebrated in prose and verse for its varied 
 beauties. It is bounded on each side by lofty mountains 
 of imposing grandeur. Speaking of the vale of Llan- 
 gollen, Mr. Pennant says, " I know no place in North 
 Wales, where the refined lover of picturesque scenes, 
 the sentimental, or the romantic tourist can give into a 
 fuller indulgence. No place abounds more with various 
 rides or solemn walks. From this central spot, he may, 
 as I have done, visit the seat of Owen Glyndwr, and the 
 fine vallies of the Dee, to its source, beyond the great 
 Llyn Tegid; or pass the mountains to the fertile vale of 
 Clwyd ; or make the tour of Wrexham ; or visit the 
 places which I have just left." 
 
 Notwithstanding this opinion has been given by the 
 discriminating and indefatigable Pennant, and though 
 Llangollen has long been the subject of much encomium, 
 the opinion of other travellers declare that it cannot, in 
 richness, be compared with the vale of Clwyd ; nor equal 
 in picturesque beauty to the vale of Ffestiniog, though, 
 in the variety of its scenery, it may probably exceed both. 
 The Eglwyseg rocks, a formal range of lime -stone on the 
 n. e. side, greatly disfigure some of its most beautiful 
 scenes. This opinion, however, is by no means gene- 
 rally received ; on the contrary, they may be said to form 
 a very interesting feature in the landscape. The pros- 
 pect towards the plain of Salop and upwards, is uncom- 
 monly striking and beautiful. In this vale, and within a 
 quarter of a mile from the town, stands 
 
 Plas Newydd, 
 the charming retreat of Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss 
 Ponsonby, better known, probably, as the two recluses 
 of Llangollen vale. These two females, delighted with 
 the scenery around Llangollen, when it was little known 
 to the rest of the world, sought here, about the year 
 1778, a philosophical retirement from the frivolities of 
 fashionable life, and selected and improved a dwelling 
 
£LAS NEWYDD CASTELL DIN AS BRAN. 209 
 
 that commands a fine mountain prospect, which obtained 
 the name of Plas Newydd. This elegant little cottage is 
 situated on a small knoll, and surrounded by very taste- 
 ful grounds. 
 
 The peculiar style in which these ladies decorated their 
 retreat has been much admired. A palisade, ornamented 
 with antique and grotesque figures carved in oak, en- 
 closed the front ; and the doors and windows were deco- 
 rated with carving of the same material. The rooms 
 were tastefully adorned with drawings. A carriage drive, 
 open to strangers, crosses the lawn immediately in front 
 of the cottage. Lady Eleanor Butler died June 2, 1829, 
 at the advanced age of 90, and Miss Ponsonby Dec. 9, 
 1831, aged 76 ; both were interred in the church- 
 yard of Llangollen. The whole property was con- 
 signed to the hammer in 1832, and Avas purchased by 
 two other maiden ladies, viz. Miss Lolly and Miss An- 
 drew, who seem inclined to emulate the retirement of 
 its former possessors. 
 
 Castell Dinas Bran 
 is situated on a high, and somewhat conical hill, about a 
 mile from Llangollen. This hill is so very steep on all 
 sides, towards the summit, as to render the walk to the 
 castle not a little fatiguing. The building has been about 
 a hundred yards long, and fifty in breadth ; and it for- 
 merly occupied the whole crown of the mountain. From 
 its extremely elevated situation (being about 910 feet above 
 the surface of the Dee at Llangollen bridge), it must have 
 been a place of vast strength. On the side which is least 
 steep, it was defended by trenches cut through the solid 
 rock. The present remains consist of nothing more than 
 a few shattered walls. — There is a well of pure water on 
 the top of the hill. 
 
 The views from hence on every side are very grand. 
 Towards the east may be seen the whole vale of Llan- 
 gollen, through w T hich the Dee foams over its bed of 
 rocks ; and beyond the vale is perceived all the flat and 
 highly cultivated country that extends for many miles. 
 Just beneath lies the town of Llangollen, and towards 
 the west is overlooked the vale of Crucis, and the moun- 
 tains beyond it all exposed, their dark sides agreeably 
 
210 VALE CRUCIS ABBEY. 
 
 varied with wood and meadow This fortress, from the 
 
 style of its architecture, is evidently the work of the 
 Britons ; but by whom built, or when demolished, is en- 
 veloped in mystery. Old Churchyard, who visited it in 
 the sixteenth century, calls it "an old ruynous thing." 
 
 Vale Crucis Abbey, 
 or, as it is called by the Welsh, Monachlog Llan Eg- 
 westl, about two miles from Llangollen, and one mile 
 and a half from Castell Dinas Bran, on the right of the 
 road towards Ruthin, is a grand and majestic ruin, afford- 
 ing some elegant specimens of the ancient Gothic archi- 
 tecture. There are still remaining of the church the east 
 and west ends, and the south transept. In the west end 
 there is an arched door-way, that has been highly and 
 beautifully ornamented ; over this, in a round arch, there 
 have been three lancet windows ; and above these a cir- 
 cular or marigold one, with eight divisions. The east 
 end, from its style of architecture, appears of higher an- 
 tiquity than the other ; and its three long, narrow, and 
 pointed windows, give it a heavy appearance. 
 
 The cloister on the south side, which a century ago 
 was only a shell, is now converted into a dwelling-house, 
 the residence of the person who farms the adjacent land. 
 Three rows of groined arches, on single round pillars, 
 support the dormitory, which is now a loft for containing 
 corn, approached by steps from without. The area of 
 the church is overgrown with tall ash trees, which hide 
 from the sight some part of the ruin, but contribute 
 greatly to its picturesque beauty : — 
 
 This sober shade, 
 
 Lets fall a serious gloom upon the mind, 
 That checks but not appals. Such are the haunts 
 Religion loves, a meek and humble maid, 
 Whose tender eye bears not the blaze of day. 
 
 Vale Crucis was a house of Cistercian monks, dedi- 
 cated to the Virgin Mother. It was indebted for its 
 foundation, about the year 1200, to Madoc ap Griffith, 
 Maelor, Lord of Bromfield and Dinas Bran, who, after 
 various successes, and acquiring much booty by the re- 
 
PILLAR OF ELISEG PONT CYSYLLTAU. '211 
 
 duction and ruin of English castles, dedicated a portion 
 of his plunder to the service of religion ! He was interred 
 here. At the dissolution, the revenues appear to have 
 amounted to about £200 per annum. — A short time ago, 
 the burial place of the monks was accidentally discovered 
 in the garden at the back of the farm-house, where a 
 quantity of their remains was found, which must have 
 been there in an undisturbed state for six hundred years. 
 
 Pillar of Eliseg. 
 The Vale of Crucis is indebted for its name to this 
 cross or pillar, which is to be found in a field near the 
 abbey, and just opposite to the second mile stone from 
 Llangollen. This pillar is very ancient. The He v. 
 John Price, Bodlean librarian (uncle of Dr. Price, of 
 Llangollen), a great antiquary, wrote to Mr. Lloyd, 
 of Trevor Hall, respecting this long neglected pillar, and 
 at his suggestion, it was placed in the position it now oc- 
 cupies. It appears to have been erected upwards of a 
 thousand years ago, in memory of Eliseg (the father of 
 Brochwel Yscythrcg, Prince of Powys, who was slain at 
 the battle of Chester in 607), by Concenn, or Congen, 
 his great grandson. The inscription is not at present 
 legible. The shaft was once above twelve feet long, but 
 having been thrown down and broken, sometime during 
 the civil wars, its upper part, only about eight feet in 
 length, was left. After these commotions, it was suf- 
 fered to lie neglected for more than a century. 
 
 Pont Cysylltau, or Cysylltau Aqueduct. 
 From Llangollen, most tourists visit this stupendous 
 work of art. It is a wonderful effort of ingenious con- 
 trivance, and offers a convincing proof of the incalcula- 
 ble capability of human energies, when wielded by sci- 
 ence, and supported by power. This aqueduct was con- 
 structed for the purpose of conveying the Ellesmere 
 canal over the river and vale of the Dee. It was com- 
 menced in 1795, from designs by Mr. Telford, and com- 
 pleted in ten years. Its direction is from north to south, 
 crossing the Dee at right angles ; and it forms, in con- 
 nexion with the exquisite scenery surrounding it, a noble 
 and magnificent picture. To view it to the best ad van- 
 
212 PONT CYSYLLTAU. 
 
 tage, the stranger must descend on one side of it, into 
 the valley beneath ; he will then be impressed with its 
 stupendous character. Though the aqueducts of the 
 Romans were superior to it in length, in other respects 
 they were inferior to it. 
 
 The tourist may proceed along the high road towards 
 Chirk, four miles from the town, where a turning to the 
 left will conduct him to Pont Cysylltau Aqueduct ; or, 
 crossing the bridge at Llangollen, ascend the hill to the 
 canal, and walk along its banks till he arrives at the 
 aqueduct. The high road is preferable, as it commands 
 some engaging prospects. 
 
 The aqueduct, in length 1007 feet, consists of nineteen 
 arches, each 45 feet in the span, with the addition of 10 
 feet 6 inches of iron work in continuation at each end. 
 The supporting piers are stone, of a pyramidal shape, 
 measuring at the base 21 feet by 14 feet wide ; but di- 
 minishing upwards to 12 feet by 7 at top ; and their 
 height about 116 feet. Over this immense arcade is ex- 
 tended a trough, or large open caisson, made of cast iron, 
 1 1 feet 10 inches broad, by which the water of the canal is 
 conveyed over the river 1009 feet to the opposite leveh 
 Two iron plates are screwed together from centre to cen- 
 tre of each arch ; and along one side of the canal is a 
 towing path, 4 feet in breadth, with a handsome iron 
 balustrade, as a defence for man and horse. The eleva- 
 tion collectively will stand thus : — 
 
 Feet. Inches. 
 
 Height of piers 116 
 
 Depth of trough, or caisson 5 6 
 
 Height of balustrade 4 7 
 
 Total height from surface of the Dee... 126 1 
 
 At the southern end is an embankment of earth, 1500 
 feet in length, and 75 feet in height nearest the abutment 
 of the arches. The whole undertaking is said to have 
 cost £47,069 6s. 7d. 
 
 On the centre arch is the following inscription : — "The 
 nobility and gentry of the adjacent counties, having 
 united their efforts with the great commercial interest of 
 this country, in creating an intercourse and union be- 
 
llangynogT. ■ 213 
 
 tween England and North Wales, by a navigable commu- 
 nication of the three rivers, Severn, Dee, and Mersey, 
 for the mutual benefit of agriculture and trade, caused 
 the first stone of this aqueduct of Pont Cyssyllte to be 
 laid on the 25th day of July, MDCCXCV. when Richard 
 Myddelton, of Chirk, Esq. one of the original patrons 
 of the Ellesmere canal, was Lord of the Manor, and in 
 the reign of our Sovereign George the Third ; when the 
 equity of the laws, and the security of property, pro- 
 moted the general welfare of the nation, while the arts 
 and sciences nourished by his patronage, and the conduct 
 of civil life was improved by his example." 
 
 Angling Stations : — 
 
 The Dee from Cor wen to Llangollen. 
 
 ' * from Llangollen to Overton. 
 
 LLANGYNOG, 
 
 (MONTGOMERYSHIRE.) 
 
 Bala 11 Llanrhaiadr 6 
 
 Llanfyllin 7 
 
 Llangynog (the church of St. Cynog), a small village, 
 situated in a pleasing slip of fertile land, above which 
 rises a stupendous rock of coarse slate. The river Tanat, 
 which runs through this village, is celebrated for its de- 
 licious trout. The upper end of the vale is bounded by 
 two vast precipices; between them juts out the rude 
 promontory of Moel ddu Vawr. On the north side of 
 this valley, is the house of Llechweddgarth, the occasional 
 residence of the late Thomas Thomas, Esq. of Down- 
 ing, near Holywell, whose daughter married Hugh Davies 
 Griffith, Esq. of Caer-Rhun, Caernarvonshire, who, 
 in consequence, became possessed of this estate, and is 
 now (1835) High Sheriff of the county of Montgomery. 
 The new inn affords tolerable accommodations. 
 
 At Craig y Mwyn, somewhat more than two miles 
 from the village, in 1692, a vein of lead ore was dis- 
 covered, so valuable as to yield to the Powys family a 
 clear revenue of at least £20,000 a year. It had been 
 
214 LLANGYNOG LLANHAIARN. 
 
 worked to the depth of about one hundred yards, when 
 on a sudden the water broke in, and became so powerful 
 that the proprietor was compelled to abandon the under- 
 taking. About the commencement of the present cen- 
 tury, however, the mine was leased by a company, who 
 drove a level beneath it, in order to draw off the water, 
 and continued the working of it for some time ; they oc- 
 casionally found masses of pure ore, weighing from 70 to 
 1001b. each. After some time the works were again dis- 
 continued, until about two years ago, when the old shaft 
 was re-opened, and the operations proceeded with con- 
 siderable success. 
 
 At Craig-y-Gribin, in this parish, are some quarries of 
 excellent blue slate, of strong and durable quality ; many 
 thousands are annually procured for the supply of the 
 neighbouring districts, and a considerable quantity is sent 
 to the canal at Newbridge, for conveyance by water to 
 more distant parts. 
 
 LLANHAIARN, 
 
 (CAERNARVONSHIRE.) 
 
 Caernarvon 13 Pwllheli 7 
 
 This is a small village, situate near the west coast of 
 the promontory of Lleyn. Its church, standing on an 
 eminence, forms a good land-mark. — Between this place 
 and the sea, is the lofty and triple-peaked range of The 
 Rival, ("or Yr Eifl) Mountains, which form conspicuous 
 objects from Caernarvon and other parts of the county. 
 Upon the first of these eminences, about a mile from 
 Llanhaiarn, is Tre yr Caeri, or the town of fortresses, 
 which Mr. Pennant describes as "the most perfect and 
 magnificent, as well as the most artfully constructed 
 British post he ever beheld." The only accessible side 
 was defended by three walls, which appear to have been 
 very lofty. The area is irregularly shaped, and near the 
 centre is a square space surrounded by the fragments of 
 habitations. 
 
LLANIDAN. 215 
 
 LLANIDAN, 
 
 (ANGLESEY.) 
 
 Caernarvon 3 Menai Bridge 6 
 
 Llanedwen 2 Plas Newydd 3 
 
 This is a small village, near the shores of the Menai, 
 not far from which is the spot where the Romans landed, 
 headed by Suetonius Paulinus, who murdered the Britons 
 by thousands. It is called, by Rowlands, Maes Mawv 
 Gad, the great army's field. It lies 300 yards from the 
 Menai, and consists of about twenty acres. The Romans 
 entered the water about 200 yards south of Llanfair- 
 is-caer church, where the shore is most flat, the water the 
 shallowest, and only three quarters of a mile wide. At 
 low water, and at neap tide, most of the bed is dry. 
 
 After the death of Nero, in the year 67, the natives 
 having borne the Roman yoke six years, threw it off, 
 the Druids returned, assumed their authority, property, 
 and pride, which they held till the year 76, when Agri- 
 cola crossed the Menai, nearly a mile farther north, land- 
 ed at a field yet called Pont or Pant yr Yscrqffiau (bridge 
 of boats), where the same tragedy was re -acted in this 
 and the two adjoining fields. 
 
 In the church is a reliquary, made not of gold or sil- 
 ver, nor ornamented with precious stones, but of very 
 ordinary grit-stone, called Maen Morddwyd, or the stone 
 of the thigh. Giraldus says, it was so constant to one 
 place, that let it be carried ever so far, it would return 
 at night. Hugh Lupus, Earl of Chester, determined to 
 subdue its locomotive faculties, fastened it with a chain 
 to a far greater stone, and flung it into the sea, but, to 
 the astonishment of all beholders, it was found the next 
 morning in its usual place ! ! It is certainly now well se- 
 cured, for it forms a part of the wall of the church. 
 
 At Tre V JDryw, or the habitation of the arch-druid, 
 Mr. Pennant met with the mutilated remains described 
 by Rowlands. His Bryn Gwyn, or Brein Gwyn (royal 
 tribunal), is a circular hollow of 180 feet in diameter, 
 surrounded by an immense agger of earth and stones. Not 
 far from it was one of the Gorseddau, now much dis- 
 
216 LLANIDAN LLANIDLOES. 
 
 persed, but once consisted of a great copped heap of 
 stones, upon which sate the druid while he instructed 
 the people. Here were also the reliques of a circle of 
 stones, with a cromlech in the midst, now extremely 
 imperfect ; two of the stones are very large, one serving 
 for the end of a house. It is conjectured by Rowlands, 
 that the whole of these remains were surrounded with a 
 circle of oaks, forming a deep grove. Near this is Caer- 
 Heb, or the moated entrenchment, of a square form, with 
 a double rampart. Within are foundations of circular 
 and of square buildings. 
 
 At Tre V Dryw are several faint traces of circles of 
 stones, and other vestiges of buildings, all much dilapi- 
 dated, or covered with weeds. Bdd-druidion, the abode 
 of the druids ; Tre-'r-Beirdd, that of the bards ; and 
 Bod-owyr, that of the priest, are all hamlets nearly sur- 
 rounding Caer~lcb, the seat of the chief druid ; at the 
 last is a cromlech resting upon three stones. At Bryn 
 Gwydryn, behind Llanidan, are two or three dikes or 
 fosses, of a semi-circular form, each end of which ter- 
 minates at a precipice, leaving an intervening area. 
 
 LLANIDLOES, 
 
 (MONTGOMERYSHIRE.) 
 
 Aberystwyth 30 Machynlleth 20 
 
 Devil's Bridge 19^ Newtwon 14 
 
 London 193 Pumlummon 7 
 
 Llanidloes (the church of St. Idloes), a tolerably large 
 town, pleasantly situated near the Severn. The popula- 
 tion of the whole parish in 1831, was 4189, including 
 2562 inhabitants of the town, who are principally em- 
 ployed in spinning and weaving of flannels, the manu- 
 facture of which has been established in this town from 
 a very early period, and has continued materially to in- 
 crease ; the softest and most durable texture is made here. 
 The principal inn is the New Inn, an excellent and well 
 conducted establishment, from whence post-chaises and 
 other vehicles may be had ; the Queen's Head, Red Lion, 
 and the Crown, are also respectable houses, where tra- 
 
LLANIDLOES. — PUMLUMMON. 21/ 
 
 vellers may be well accommodated. — By the late Reform 
 Act, this town was made one of the contributary boroughs 
 of the county. 
 
 The church was originally founded towards the close 
 of the fifth, or at the beginning of the sixth century — 
 Of the original building the towers only remain. The 
 present structure was built about 200 years ago. In 
 1816, the chancel and south wall were rebuilt; at the 
 same time the church was new pewed ; and a set of new 
 bells was hung in the tower in 1824. As is usual in all the 
 Welsh towns, there are places of worship for various dis- 
 senting congregations. The market day is on Saturday. 
 Formerly the town had but a mean appearance ; but of 
 late years it has been much enlarged and improved, by 
 the erection of numerous respectable buildings on the 
 site of others, composed of timber frame work and plais- 
 ter, which formerly prevailed throughout the place. 
 
 Some short time ago, a handsome stone bridge of three 
 arches, was erected over the Severn, at a considerable 
 expense. A new town hall is also on the point of being 
 erected on the site of the old one, which is but a misera- 
 ble looking structure. About two years ago, a new and 
 excellent line of road was opened from hence to Rhaiadr, 
 which makes a direct and regular communication between 
 North and South Wales. Lord Mostyn is lord of the 
 manor ; a court leet is held once a year, at Michaelmas, 
 when a mayor is elected, and other officers appointed, in 
 whom the government of the place is vested. In the 
 vicinity of the town are several handsome residences, the 
 property of opulent individuals. 
 
 Within eight miles of Llanidloes, in the parish of Llan- 
 brynmair, are two fine waterfalls, near to each other, of 
 which the principal, called Ffrwd Vawr, is very grand, 
 especially after heavy rains ; the water having a perpen- 
 dicular descent of more than one hundred and thirty feet. 
 
 Pumlummon. 
 Within the limits of Llanidloes parish is partly included 
 the lofty mountain of Plinltmon, or more properly, 
 Pumlummon, the five peaked mountain, which is the 
 highest in the several chains, of which it forms the 
 centre ; and from this place the ascent to its summit is 
 
218 PUMLUMMON. 
 
 usually made, being only seven miles distant from the 
 town, and where guides from the principal inns are pro- 
 vided. From the highest point is obtained a fine pros- 
 pect of vast extent, comprehending on the south, the hills 
 of Cardiganshire and Radnorshire ; on the west, Cardigan 
 bay, and St. George's channel ; on the north, Cader Idris, 
 and part of the Snowdon range of mountains, separating 
 the counties of Caernarvon and Merioneth ; on the north- 
 east, the Breiddyn hills, in Montgomeryshire ; and on the 
 east, part of the counties of Hereford and Salop. This 
 mountain derives a considerable degree of interest, from 
 its giving rise to the rivers Severn, Wye, Rheidiol, 
 and Llyvn-nant ; of which the first is secondary only to 
 the Thames, in commercial importance ; whilst the Wye 
 and the Rheidiol surpass all other rivers in Britain for the 
 picturesque beauty of their scenery. 
 
 The Severn, here called by its ancient British name of 
 Havren, rises on the northern side of the mountain, in a 
 stony chalybeate spring, and is speedily joined and in- 
 creased by other springs rising near to its source, and by 
 several mountain torrents, before it reaches Llanidloes. 
 
 The Wye rises from two powerful springs on the south- 
 eastern side of the mountain, and after a long circuitous 
 course, falls into the Severn, near Chepstow. 
 
 The Rheidiol has its source in a pool called Llyn 
 Llygad* Rheidiol, and falls into the sea at Aberystwyth. 
 
 * About twenty years ago, Llyn Llygad was entirely 
 without fish. Two gentlemen, one of whom was the late 
 Captain Jones, R.N. of Machynlleth, were grousing on 
 Pumlummon, when the conversation turned upon the pecu- 
 liarity of this lake being entirely destitute of the finny tribe, 
 and the possibility of stocking it from a neighbouring rivulet. 
 A staff net was procured, and some dozens of small trout 
 caught in the river Rheidiol, were thrown into the lake, 
 which at that time swarmed with millions of horse leeches. 
 Some of the trout, when placed in the pool, lay upon their 
 sides faint and exhausted ; and strange as it may appear, the 
 rapacious leeches attached themselves to the sick fish, and 
 actually devoured them. Others of the trout were vigorous ; 
 these and their progeny have enforced the lex talionis with a 
 vengeance ; and while the fish abounds, not a leech is now 
 to be seen. 
 
LLANIDLOES LLANRHAIADR. 219 
 
 And the Llyvn-nant issues from a pool called Glas-Lyn. 
 — At Melin Velindre, on the route to Pumlummon, is a 
 romantic cataract, and near a sheep farm called Blaen 
 Havren, the Severn rolls its waters over a lofty ledge of 
 slate rocks, in which gullies have been found of pictur- 
 esque shapes. 
 
 About two miles from the town on the south-east, is a 
 spacious Pool, called Llyn-ebyr, extending over a surface 
 of nearly one hundred acres ; it abounds with pike, eels, 
 and perch, and affords excellent fishing ; it is frequented 
 by wild fowl ; and during the summer season, it is the 
 resort of parties of pleasure, for whose accommodation, 
 boats belonging to gentlemen in the vicinity are kept on 
 the pool. 
 
 Angling Stations. 
 
 Distances from Llanidloes. Miles. 
 
 The Clywedog 
 
 Bodaioch, on the Tavannon 5 
 
 Glan Trevnant 5 
 
 Llandinam 6^ 
 
 Llangurig 5 
 
 LLANRHAIADR. 
 
 (DENBIGHSHIRE.) 
 
 Denbigh 4 Ruthin 4 
 
 Llanrhaiadr, the village of the cataract* on the road 
 between Ruthin and Denbigh, is situated on a small 
 eminence in the fertile vale of Clwyd. It derives its 
 name from a spring at a short distance, called Ffynnon 
 Ddyfrog, where once was a bath and a chapel, dedicated 
 to St. Dyfrog. This spring is only the re-appearance of 
 a rivulet, which at three quarters of a mile distance sud- 
 denly disappears in the fissures of the rock, and perform- 
 ing its subterranean course, is here again seen ; this may 
 be indubitably ascertained by a sack of chaff being thrown 
 in at the head, and being again disgorged at the spring. 
 
 The church is a handsome structure. On the east win- 
 
220 LLANRHAIADR YN MOCHNANT. 
 
 dow is a painting of the genealogy of Christ from Jesse, 
 executed about 1533. In the church yard is a curious 
 inscription to John ap Robert, whose pedigree is traced 
 up«to Cadell, King of Powys. 
 
 The scenery, both to Denbigh and Ruthin, is all the 
 way extremely beautiful. 
 
 LLANRHAIADR YN MOCHNANT, 
 
 (DENBIGHSHIRE.) 
 
 Bala 18 Llangynog 6 
 
 Llanfyllin 5 Oswestry 14 
 
 This is a small village, situated at the extremity of the 
 county, in a deep hollow, surrounded on all sides by 
 mountains. The houses are mostly old and irregular, 
 although of late several improvements have been made 
 here. The Coach and Horses, and other inns, afford 
 tolerable accommodations. The market is held every 
 Tuesday. 
 
 Dr. William Morgan, the first translator of the bible 
 
 into Welsh, was vicar of this place He was promoted 
 
 to the Bishopric of LlandafF, and in 1601 to that of St. 
 Asaph, where he died in 1604. This valley is called 
 Mochnant, the vale of the rapid brook, at the extremity 
 of which, distant from the village about four miles and a 
 half, is 
 
 PlSTYLL RHAIADR. 
 
 the spout of the cataract, reputed to be the largest water- 
 fall in Wales. The little river Rhaiadr here falls down 
 an almost perpendicular black crag, of 240 feet in height. 
 For about two-thirds of this space, the water slides down 
 the flat face of a naked rock ; it rages thence through a 
 natural arch, and, passing between two prominent sides, 
 falls into a bason. It then passes through a well- wooded 
 dell, forming a boundary line which separates the coun- 
 ties of Denbigh and Montgomery, and after assisting to 
 form some pleasing scenes, falls into the Tanat. The 
 cataract is destitute of wood ; notwithstanding which it 
 retains an air of simple grandeur. When the sun shines 
 
PISTYLL EHAIADR LLANRWST. 221 
 
 on the upper part of the cataract, it is visible even at a 
 great distance. Near to the waterfall is a neat inn, built 
 in the Gothic style by Sir W. W. Wynn, where the 
 
 stranger may meet with tolerable accommodation . 
 
 " Though certainly the highest," says Mr. Skrine, "this 
 is far from being the most picturesque waterfall we have 
 seen in our tour ; and perhaps it fails at the first view to 
 strike the sight so forcibly as might be expected, in con- 
 sequence of the great absence of all external beauty." 
 He could not, however, help being impressed with its 
 magnitude, when he reached the spot, though the stream 
 was more scanty than usual. Planting has of late been 
 carried on here to a considerable extent, which has greatly 
 altered the general appearance. 
 
 LLANRWST, 
 
 (DENBIGHSHIRE.) 
 
 Abergele 22 Denbigh 22 
 
 Cerniogau 14 London 218 
 
 Capel Curig 11 Maen-Twrog 20 
 
 Conway 12 
 
 This town is pleasantly situated on the western bank 
 of the river Conway, which here forms the boundary be- 
 tween the counties of Denbigh and Caernarvon, in the 
 spacious and beautiful vale of Llanrwst, environed by 
 majestic and well- wooded hills, the land at the foot of 
 whichls plentifully watered, and remarkably fertile. The 
 town is well built, but consists principally of small houses 
 and shops, with a population of 3601 inhabitants ; it has 
 a market on Tuesday ; the Eagles is the principal inn. 
 
 The bridge over the Conway, leading to Gwydir, is an 
 elegant structure, built about the year 1636, from a plan 
 by the celebrated Inigo Jones, at an expense of £1000., 
 defrayed conjointly by the two counties which it con- 
 nects. It is an extraordinary circumstance that this 
 bridge may easily be shaken by any person standing above 
 the middle arch, and forcing himself rather smartly 
 against the parapet. — Excellent roads have lately been 
 made, communicating with the London, Holyhead, and 
 
222 LLANRWST. 
 
 Chester roads, and also with Denbigh and St. Asaph, the 
 improved state of which has caused a considerable in- 
 crease of visitors, during the summer months, to view the 
 picturesque and much-admired scenery of this neighbour- 
 hood. 
 
 Llanrwst was formerly noted for the making of harps ; at 
 present, the spinning of woollen yarn, and the knitting of 
 stockings, constitute the principal branches of trade. The 
 river Conway is navigable from its mouth to Trefriw, two 
 miles and a half from the town, for vessels of 60 tons bur- 
 then, which bring coal, lime, timber, and grocery, for the 
 supply of the inhabitants of the town and neighbourhood, 
 and carry back the produce of the slate quarries and 
 mines of the adjoining parishes. The market-place is a 
 spacious area, in the centre of which stands the town- 
 hall, a substantial building, erected in 1661. 
 
 The original church, dedicated to St. Grwst, is a small 
 edifice, situated close to the margin of the river, and 
 built about the year 1170. The present structure, is 
 supposed from its style of architecture, to have been 
 erected in the fifteenth century : it contains a screen of 
 beautifully carved oak, brought here from the abbey of 
 Maenan, and now used as a gallery for the singers. Ad- 
 joining it, on the other side, is the Gwydir chapel, a 
 handsome square castellated edifice, the interior of which 
 is decorated with a profusion of carved work : it was 
 built by Sir Richard Wynne, from a design by Inigo 
 Jones in 1633, as a burial-place for his family, the de- 
 ceased members of which had previously been interred in 
 the chancel, and contains several elegantly engraved 
 brasses, exhibiting portraits of several of this family. On 
 the eastern wall is a slab of white marble, recording the 
 pedigree of the founder, and tracing his ancestors to 
 Owen Gwynedd, Prince of North Wales. On the 
 southern wall is a mutilated monument to the memory of 
 Sir John Wynne, Bart, a learned antiquary, and an inde- 
 fatigable gleaner of materials for the illustration of Welsh 
 history. In the centre of the chapel, upon the floor, lies 
 the stone coffin of Llywelyn the great, who died in 1240, 
 and was interred in the abbey which he had founded at 
 Aberconway, thence removed to Maenan, and from that 
 place, at the dissolution, the coffin was brought to the old 
 
GWYDIR VALE OF LLANRWST. 223 
 
 parish church of Llanrwst, where it remained obscured 
 by rubbish, until placed in its present more appropriate 
 situation. The same attention has likewise been paid to 
 another piece of antiquity placed near to it, to wit, a 
 recumbent armed effigy of Howel Coetmor, grandson 
 of Davydd, brother to Lly welyn ab Gruffydd ; he was 
 owner of the Gwydir estate, which was sold by one of 
 his descendants to the family of Wynne. There are in 
 the parish eleven places of worship for dissenters. 
 
 Gwydir. 
 This ancient mansion, about half a mile distant from 
 the town, beautifully situated amidst extensive woods of 
 oak, which clothe the rocks projecting between the rivers 
 Conway and Llugwy, near the foot of a lofty precipice 
 called Carreg y Gwalch, or " the rock of the falcon," was 
 erected by John Wynne, ab Meredydd, in 1555, and com- 
 prised an extensive, but somewhat irregular pile of build- 
 ing, ranged in a quadrangular style, and consisting of an 
 inner and outer court. A great part of this edifice was 
 taken down in 1816, since which time the present struc- 
 ture, though on a much smaller scale, has been built : a 
 small portion of the former mansion still remains, and is 
 now being fitted up in an antique and elegant style. That 
 part which was built by Meredydd still remains, and 
 contains some magnificent rooms, in which are several 
 articles of furniture made from the Druidical oaks of an- 
 cient times, and the cradle which nurtured Sir John and 
 Sir Richard Wynne is still to be seen. The pleasure 
 grounds are laid out with great taste, and contain a good 
 collection of plants. — Mary Wynne (afterwards Duchess 
 of Ancaster), the last of this great race, conveyed the 
 property to that family, and Lord Willoughby D'Eresby 
 now possesses it in right of his Lady. 
 
 Vale of Llanrwst. 
 This delightful vale, which is neither so widely ex- 
 tended as the Vale of Clwyd, nor so contracted as that 
 of Llangollen, is regarded by the admirers of picturesque 
 scenery, as exhibiting the most varied assemblage of 
 beautiful features which the pencil could delineate. Mr. 
 Burke has pronounced it "the most charming spot in 
 
224 RHAIADR Y PARC MAWR GWYTHER1N, 
 
 Wales." The prospect of the dense woods and towering 
 hills which enclose it on each side, is enlivened by the 
 sparkling waters of the sportive Conway, which every 
 where present an animated scene, either of small vessels 
 arriving at the village of Trefriw, or of the diminutive 
 boats, called coracles, which are used for fishing for 
 salmon and smelts, considerable quantities of which are 
 caught in their respective seasons. At Mayne, within a 
 mile of Llanrwst, is a spring of high repute, and frequently 
 used with great effect as a cold bath. The water is un- 
 commonly soft, and impregnated with aetherial spirits. 
 With spirits of sal volatile it turns milk-white, with the 
 oil of tartar, a pearl-colour. 
 
 In the valley called Nant Bwlch yr Haiarn, near 
 Gwydir, is a cataract which falls about 100 feet, called 
 
 Rhaiadr y Parc Mawr. 
 The quantity of water, however, is seldom large 
 enough to produce much effect. About two miles and 
 a half from Llanrwst, on the Conway road, is the small 
 but beautiful village of Trefriw, situated on an eminence 
 commanding a delightful and extensive view of the Vale 
 of Llanrwst. Near this lovely spot is the celebrated 
 Lake of Geirionydd, on the banks of which lived the 
 illustrious bard Taliesin — called by his countrymen, by 
 way of distinction "Taliesin ben Beirdd," the chief of the 
 Bards. Lord Willoughby d'Eresby has lately erected a 
 monument, which his Lordship intended should identify 
 the spot where the Poet resided. But unfortunately his 
 Lordship has mistaken the site, and placed the column at 
 the west end of the lake, when it is very well known 
 that Taliesin was addressed by his contemporaries at 
 Llidiard Coed y Blawd, at the east side of the Lake. 
 Here in a sort of hollow, formed on the summit of a 
 mound, are still to be seen some remains of an ancient 
 habitation. Five miles s. E. of Llanrwst, is 
 
 GWYTHERIN, 
 
 an ancient Nunnery, where St. Winifred is said to have 
 been buried. In the church yard are four rude upright 
 stones, one of which is shaped like a prism, and bears an 
 old inscription. The box in which the relics of this saint 
 
ABBEY OF MAENAN.- RHAIADR Y WENOL. 225 
 
 were deposited is shewn in the church, but her chapel on 
 the south side is totally destroyed. Three miles to the 
 north, once stood the 
 
 Abbey of Maenan; 
 but a large old house built out of its ruins, is all which 
 exists of it. 
 
 From Llanrwst, Mr. Skrine proceeded up the Vale of 
 Conway, till the closing hills barely left room for the 
 foaming river ; then turning to the right, he coursed the 
 Llugwy, and soon came to a spot, where it dashes with 
 great rapidity over a ledge of broken rocks, on the craggy 
 points of which an extraordinary bridge of five arches, 
 called Pont y Pair is founded. He then penetrated into 
 the recesses of that pile of mountains which form the 
 base of Snowdon, for the purpose of viewing the cata- 
 ract of 
 
 Rhaiadr y Wenol. 
 
 The river here, tearing its way through opposing ob- 
 stacles, increased the horror of this savage desert, by a 
 precipitate fall from rock to rock, into the abyss of an 
 excessively deep hollow, whence it rushes with prodigious 
 impetuosity for several miles to the bridge, which he 
 lately passed. At the cataract a dark column of wood 
 overhangs and fringes its banks, which, combined with the 
 colour and largeness of the rocks, gives an indescribable 
 sublimity to the grandeur of the scene. 
 
 Returning to Llanrwst, he passed near the ancient 
 mansion of Gwydir. Pursuing the turnpike road, on the 
 Caernarvonshire side of the river, he soon reached the 
 town of Conway. On approaching Conway from Llan- 
 rwst, the castle and the walls, inclosing the town, appear 
 to great advantage, especially where it is seen in one 
 view, the south wall, upon the sea side, the town, the 
 turrets, and the castle, backed by a most beautiful and 
 rising wood. 
 
 Angling Stations. 
 
 Distances from Llanrwst. Miles. 
 
 Bettws y Coed 3 
 
 Trevriw 2h 
 
226 MACHYNLLETH. 
 
 Ddl-garrog 4 
 
 Llanbedr 5 
 
 Dolwyddelan 8 
 
 Various Lakes near Llanrhy chivy n and Ddl-garrog, viz. 
 
 Llyn Geirionydd 4 
 
 LlynBogynmyd 3 
 
 Llyn Cowlid 6 
 
 Llyn Afangc 
 
 Llyn Tal y Llyn, near Llanwrst Llyn Crafnant, 
 
 near Llanwrst. 
 
 MACHYNLLETH, 
 
 (MONTGOMERYSHIRE.) 
 
 Aberystwyth 18 London 208 
 
 Chester 70 Newtown 28 
 
 Dolgellau 16 Towyn 14 
 
 Llanidloes 20 
 
 Machynlleth is an ancient well-built town, of a mode- 
 rate size, and superior to most in North Wales for clean- 
 liness and respectability, the streets being remarkably 
 spacious and regular in appearance. It is situated on the 
 road leading to Aberystwyth from Shrewsbury and North 
 Wales, about a quarter of a mile from the southern bank 
 of the river Dyfi. The township contains a population 
 of 1657. It is the centre of the woollen manufactory in 
 this part of the country, where also some tanning busi- 
 ness is carried on. The Eagles is accounted the princi- 
 pal inn, and the Unicorn Arms, in the middle of the town, 
 has obtained a good repute for excellent accommodation. 
 — The name of this town signifies the place of the river 
 Cynllaeth, which was the ancient name of the Dyfi or 
 Dovey, in the valley of which it stands. It is the sup- 
 posed Maglana of the Romans, where, in the reign of 
 Honorious, a Lieutenant was stationed to awe the moun- 
 taineers. 
 
 It was this town to which Owen Glyndwr summoned 
 the nobility and gentry of Wales in 1402. Among the 
 number, Sir David Gam attended with the design of 
 
MACHYNLLETH. 227 
 
 murdering Glyndwr, but the plot was discovered, and 
 Sir David was seized. He would have suffered instan- 
 taneous death, had not some powerful friends interfered, 
 through whose intercession his sentence was mitigated to 
 confinement at Machynlleth, where he continued some 
 time. But Sir David was scarcely set at liberty, ere he 
 began to manifest a turbulent disposition ; which so 
 much exasperated Glyndwr, that he burnt his house in 
 resentment, uttering to Gam's servant the following ex- 
 temporaneous stanza : — 
 
 Os gweli di wr coch cam, 
 Yn 'mofyn am Gyrnigwen ; 
 
 Dy wed ei bod hi tan y Ian, 
 A nod y glo ar ei phen. 
 
 David, however, escaped this meditated vengeance by 
 flying into England, where he continued in confidence at 
 the court of Henry V. 
 
 In the august assembly, called Owen's parliament, 
 Glyndwr exerted his first acts of royalty, being acknow- 
 ledged as the Prince of Wales, and proclaimed and 
 crowned. The ancient senate-house stood in the prin- 
 cipal street ; near its site may be observed an old arch- 
 way, projecting a little in front of a modern-built house. 
 During the building of this house the arch was carefully 
 removed from another spot to its present situation, with- 
 out sustaining any injury. 
 
 Machynlleth has a church, dedicated to St. Peter, 
 which is a handsome structure, rebuilt, with the excep- 
 tion of the tower, in 1827 ; the interior is well arranged, 
 and neatly fitted up, and the ancient tower has been 
 raised a few feet higher, and crowned with battlements 
 and crocketed angular pinnacles. The town -hall, or 
 market-house, a plain and commodious building, was 
 erected in 1783, by Sir W. W. Wynn, father of the pre- 
 sent owner of Wynnstay, who is lord of the manor, and 
 holds courts leet twice in the year. The county court is 
 held alternately here and at Montgomery, and the petty 
 sessions for the hundred are held here occasionally. 
 There are places of worship for Independents, Calvinists, 
 and Wesleyan Methodists ; and a national school hand* 
 
228 MAEN-TWROG TAN-Y-BWLCH. 
 
 somely endowed. The new line of road from Machyn- 
 lleth to Towyn is exceedingly picturesque and beautiful, 
 particularly that part of it lying between Penal and 
 Aberdovey, which is cut out of the solid rock, and 
 was opened in 1827 ; it passes along the northern bank 
 of the Dovey, and affords most delightful views of the 
 opposite coast of Cardiganshire, with the sea in the 
 distance. 
 
 MAEN-TWROG, 
 
 (MERIONETHSHIRE.) 
 
 Bala 22 Harlech 10 
 
 Bedd-gelert 10 Slate Quarries 5 
 
 Capel Curig 22 Tan y Bwlch 0^ 
 
 Dolgellau 17 Tremadoc 10 
 
 Festiniog 3 The Cataracts 2 
 
 This is a small village, situated in the most romantic 
 part of the highly-picturesque vale of Festiniog, on the 
 southern bank of the river Dwyryd. It derives its name 
 from a large stone, still remaining in the churchyard, 
 called Maen-Twrog, erected to the memory of a British 
 saint, who died about the year 610. The church was 
 re-built on the site of the ancient structure in 1814, and 
 is a neat stone edifice with a square embattled tower. 
 The Rev. Edmund Prys, one of the most eminent poets 
 of his time, was rector of this parish ; he translated the 
 metrical psalms used in the Welsh churches, and assisted 
 Bishop Morgan in translating the Bible. He died in the 
 year 1623, and was buried in Maen-Twrog church. No- 
 thing can exceed the beauties of the little vale in which 
 this village is built : the hills are moderately high, and 
 scattered in a pleasing style, and the sides mostly well 
 wooded. 
 
 There is a comfortable inn here, where neat cars may 
 be had. A Sunday school has very recently been erected, 
 at the expense of Mrs. Oakley. Within sight of the 
 village, and about half a mile distant on the opposite side 
 of the river, is 
 
 Tan-y-Bwlch, 
 that is, below the pass, which is one of the most beau- 
 
TAN-Y-BWLCH. 229 
 
 tiful, and, to tourists, one of the most celebrated places 
 connected with the range of Snowdonian mountains. It 
 takes its name from being situated at the brow of a hill, 
 where it overlooks the vale of Ffestiniog ; and from Plas 
 Tan y Bwlch, the residence of W. G. Oakley, Esq. 
 which is delightfully and romontically situated. The 
 view from the terrace of this mansion is most splendid 
 and interesting, embracing the panorama scenery of 
 almost the entire vale of Ffestiniog, from the village to 
 Traeth Bychan, watered by the river Dwyryd, in all its 
 meandering windings, with the range of Merionethshire 
 mountains in the distance ; and on the right the majestic 
 castle of Harlech, and the lake -like intervening scenery, 
 relieved by a small sheet of Cardigan bay. Mr. Wynd- 
 ham, who visited this place in the summer of 1774, was 
 so highly gratified with the scene, as to make this ap- 
 proving observation : — "That if a person could live upon 
 a landscape, he would scarcely desire a more eligible 
 spot than this." All visiters at the hotel are allowed 
 free access to the terrace. 
 
 The Oakley Arms, an elegant hotel, where comforts 
 and accommodations of every kind abound, is conveni- 
 ently situated in the centre of the attractive objects 
 around, and from which, on excellent roads, they may 
 be visited, such as the slate quarries, the waterfalls, the 
 Ffestiniog rail-road, &c. 
 
 Several Roman antiquities have lately been found 
 near this place, consisting of coins, urns, and inscribed 
 stones, of which last some are in the possession of the 
 before-named W. G. Oakley, Esq. and of J. Lloyd, 
 Esq. of Pen y Glanau, who has also an extensive col- 
 lection of antiquities, found in different parts of the 
 Principality. 
 
 About two miles on the Harlech road, up a woody 
 valley, are two most interesting waterfalls, on the Velin- 
 Rhyd river, one called the Rhaiadr Die, or the Black 
 Cataract, and the other the Haven Fall. From the for- 
 mer the water rushes down a steep channel for about one 
 hundred yards, and is thence thrown with great force 
 over three rocks, each of which takes a different direc- 
 tion from the others — the depth of the fall is about forty 
 feet. The latter is not more than a quarter of a mile 
 
230 TAN-Y-BWLCH. 
 
 distant, and is equal in beauty and grandeur. It consists 
 of six different falls, each of which, about thirty feet in 
 extent, is beautifully picturesque, and, as seen from the 
 base of the rock over which the river descends, has 
 a sublime and romantic appearance. There are also 
 several other falls of minor interest on the streams 
 that water the vale. At a cottage near the bridge, 
 which the tourist will cross before he leaves the main 
 road from Maen-Twrog, a guide to the falls may be 
 obtained. 
 
 After the natural beauties of this most romantic dis- 
 trict, the object of the greatest attraction is the Ffestiniog 
 rail-road, for the conveyance of slates from the Ffesti- 
 niog quarries to Port Madoc. This undertaking is one of 
 the most enterprising conceptions of the day, being cut 
 through rocks nearly the whole length of fourteen miles, 
 and forming an inclined plane the whole distance, the 
 fall of which is equal to one inch in a hundred and twen- 
 ty, and the descent from its commencement to its ter- 
 mination is a most delightful ride, winding round moun- 
 tains through deep cuttings in the rocks, and thickly 
 planted woods, and over precipitous vallies, fearful to 
 contemplate in the transit. An almost infinite variety is 
 thus displayed, scarcely to be surpassed for sublimity, 
 and which is the more interesting from the rapidity in 
 which change succeeds change ; particularly from Duallt 
 House (an estate lately purchased by the Bishop of 
 Clogher), and at the points where the eye catches 
 Traeth. By chart (Little Marsh), and Traeth Mawr 
 (Great Marsh), apparently studded with small isles and 
 groves, Harlech castle and the surrounding heights being 
 in the back ground ; almost realizing to the fancy some 
 of the most celebrated of the English and Irish lakes, 
 at their best points of observation. Tourists and visiters 
 have the opportunity of enjoying this high treat in per- 
 fection, and without personal fatigue, as a carriage has 
 been placed on the line connected with the Oakley Arms 
 Hotel. 
 
 The quarries, with which the railway is in connection, 
 produce the best and most valuable kind of slate, which, 
 in consequence of its freeness from spots, may be termed 
 virgin slate. They are worthy of inspection, and belong to 
 
TAN-Y-BWLCH MALLWYD. 231 
 
 Lords Newborough, Palmerston, and Powlett ; W. G. 
 Oakley, S. Holland, J. Greaves, W. Turner, and Thomas 
 Casson, Esquires. The expense of carriage by this im- 
 proved transit will be reduced nearly one half. Besides, 
 the slates may now be sent to the shipping port daily, 
 whereas, under the old system, the quarries had to wait 
 for spring tides. 
 
 In addition to the new roads already mentioned, it 
 is contemplated to construct one from the Oakley Arms 
 Hotel to Bettws y Coed iron bridge, on the great Holy- 
 head road, which will reduce the distance to about thirteen 
 miles ; and with the exception of one half mile, will form 
 a level drive. There is now a daily post to and from 
 Tan-y-Bwlch, and a stage coach goes from the hotel to 
 Caernarvon and Barmouth three times a week. The 
 remaining attractions of this district will be found under 
 their proper heads. 
 
 MALLWYD, 
 
 (MONTGOMERYSHIRE.) 
 
 Bala 19 Dinas Mowddwy l£ 
 
 Can-Office 12 Machynlleth 12 
 
 A small village, placed between the salient angles of 
 three abrupt mountains, Arran, Camlan, and Moel Dyfi, 
 in a small valley surrounded by many delightful scenes, 
 through which runs the river Dyfi, or Dovey. 
 
 The falls of the Dovey at Pont Fallwyd, about half a 
 mile distant, are particularly worth examining. The 
 Rev. J. Evans thus describes this spot : — " The scenery, 
 which ever way the eye turns, is prodigiously romantic. 
 The mountains form a grand natural amphitheatre, with 
 sylvan sides ; through which peeps, here and there, a 
 white-washed cottage, sufficient to remind us that we 
 are yet in an inhabited country. Camlan rising imme- 
 diately, with rude majesty, on our sight, and the conical 
 Arran lifting its resplendent head, with the different 
 cwms, were reflected in various tint and shade in the 
 waters of the Dovey. Through the opening of the 
 mountains, the diminished scenery of the distant vale 
 
232 MALLWYD MOLD. 
 
 appears in camera obscura before. Opposite, the beau- 
 tiful cascade formed by the Dovey is peculiarly fine. The 
 river, impatient to rush through a narrow rocky channel, 
 foams against a high slate rock in the centre of the bed, 
 dashes into the pool beneath, and hastens to meet the 
 estuary of the Dovey. Just above is a lofty mountain 
 bridge of a single arch, grey with lichens, on one side 
 ornamented with ivy, while the steep and rough banks 
 are feathered with thick underwood to the water's 
 edge." 
 
 The church is a humble Gothic structure, the floor 
 covered with rushes, and what is singular, the commu- 
 nion table is in the centre. It has a boarded tower, 
 bearing date 1640, and the words Venite Cantern, appa- 
 rently part of an inscription, which might originally have 
 been Soli Deo Sacrum Venite Cantern. The church- 
 yard is remarkable for several large yew trees, one of 
 which measures twenty- two feet in girth, and forty feet 
 in height — Mallwyd has a good inn, where post chaises 
 may be procured. 
 
 MOLD, 
 
 (FLINTSHIRE.) 
 
 Chester 12 London ..200 
 
 Flint :.. 6 Northop 3 
 
 Hawarden 6 Ruthin.... 10 
 
 Holywell 10 Wrexham 11 
 
 The ancient British name of this place, " Yr Wydd- 
 grug," signifying a lofty and conspicuous hill, and also 
 the Roman name of " Mont altus," of like import, were 
 derived from a high mound on the north-western side of 
 the present town, now called the Bailey Hill, a lofty 
 eminence, partly natural, and partly artificial, upon which 
 a fortification appears to have been erected at a very 
 early period, but whether originally by the ancient Bri- 
 tons, or by the Romans, is not accurately known. It is 
 seated in a pleasant valley, watered by the river Alyn ; 
 consists principally of one long spacious street; and in 
 1831, with that part of the township immediately adjoin- 
 
MOLD. 233 
 
 ing, contained 8,088 inhabitants. By the late act for 
 amending the representation, Mold has been constituted 
 a borough, contributary with Flint, and the other bo- 
 roughs in the county, in the return of a member to 
 parliament. 
 
 The houses are not distinguished either for their regu- 
 larity or style of building ; but in the environs are 
 numerous handsome seats and elegant mansions. The 
 principal inns are the Black Lion, and Lees wood Arms. 
 The parish abounds with mineral wealth ; the western 
 district is rich in lead ore, which is generally found im- 
 bedded in lime-stone, or chirtz ; but the operations are 
 much impeded by the subterraneous stream of the Alyn, 
 which here flows underground for the space of upwards 
 of half a mile. Numerous tumuli are found in various 
 parts of the parish, affording evidence of the obstinacy 
 with which the vale of Alyn was contested by the va- 
 rious hostile parties who over-ran this part of the country 
 in the earlier period of its history. In October 1833, 
 some workmen, digging in a field near the town, disco- 
 vered a human skeleton, having at its feet an earthen pot, 
 which apparently contained ashes ; and on the breast, 
 with other metal, a large plate of gold, much ornamented. 
 This was taken possession of by the overseer of the 
 parish, and has been valued at the sum of £70. 
 
 In the neighbourhood are various works for smelting 
 lead ; and almost adjoining the town, is an extensive cot- 
 ton mill. The mill for the spinning of cotton twist, is 
 situated on the river Alyn ; it was erected in 1792, 
 lighted with gas in 1812, and greatly enlarged in 1825 ; 
 and at present affords employment to more than 300 per- 
 sons. 
 
 The county assizes are held in this town. A new 
 county hall has lately been erected in the old English style 
 of architecture, from a design by Thomas Jones, Esq. 
 architect, of Chester, the estimated expense of which is 
 about £3000. 
 
 The church, dedicated to St. Mary, and said to have 
 been erected in the early part of the sixteenth century, 
 is a spacious and handsome structure, consisting of a 
 nave, north and south aisles, and a chancel, with a lofty 
 square embattled tower, enriched with sculpture and 
 
234 MOLD MAES GARMON. 
 
 crowned with pinnacles, which, though of more recent 
 erection, precisely correspond with the general design. 
 The interior of the church is richly embellished with ar- 
 chitectural details and sculptured monuments. The aisles 
 are lighted by spacious and lofty windows of elegant de- 
 sign, enriched with tracery, and corresponding in form 
 to the arches of the nave. Among numerous monu- 
 ments which are worthy of examination, is an elegant 
 one to the memory of Richard Davies, Esq. of Llan- 
 erch ; and against a pillar of the nave is this singular 
 epitaph, composed by Dr. Wynne, for himself, and 
 placed there during his life : — " In conformity to ancient 
 usage, from a proper regard to decency, and a concern 
 for the health of his fellow-creatures, he was moved to 
 give particular directions for being buried in the adjoin- 
 ing churchyard, and not in the church ; and as he 
 scorned flattering of others while living, he has taken 
 care to prevent being flattered by others when dead, by 
 causing this small memorial to be set up in his life-time. 
 God be merciful to me a sinner ! " — There are places of 
 worship for all denominations of dissenters. 
 
 Of the ancient castle, not a vestige at present can be 
 discerned, and its very site is completely covered with 
 thriving plantations ; the three fosses by which it was 
 formerly defended are still traceable, and from these it 
 it appears to have originally consisted of the upper and 
 lower ballium, and an elevated donjon, or keep, each of 
 which was separated from the others by a deep fosse. 
 The Bailey Hill, on which it stood, though at present 
 difficult of ascent, was rendered still more arduous by 
 the erection of strong ramparts and the formation of a 
 deep moat : from the summit of this hill, a fine view of 
 the surrounding country is obtained. About a mile west 
 of Mold, is a noted spot of ground, called 
 
 Maes Garmon. 
 Or, the Field of Germanus. Soon after the final esta- 
 blishment of Christianity in this part of the Principality, 
 about 448, a severe conflict took place here, between the 
 combined forces of the Pagan Saxons and Piets, Avho 
 were carrying desolation through the country, and the 
 inhabitants, who had been recently converted, and of 
 
offa's DYKE TOWER. 235 
 
 whom thousands had been but lately baptized. The lat- 
 ter calmly awaited the approach of the enemy at this 
 place, under the command of Bishops Germanus and 
 Lupus, the former of whom, having given his troops 
 orders to repeat after him the word "Alleluiab," led 
 them on to battle. 
 
 This triumphant shout, uttered by the whole army, 
 struck such terror into the hearts of the pagans, that they 
 fled on all sides; numbers perished by the swords of their 
 pursuers ; and many, attempting to escape, were drowned 
 in the adjacent river. This celebrated victory, which 
 took place in Easter week, has been distinguished by 
 historians with the appellation of " Victoria Alleluia- 
 tica ; " and the memorial of it has been perpetuated by 
 the erection of a pillar, in 1730, on the spot where St. 
 Germanus is said to have stood, on the base of which is 
 a Latin inscription commemorative of the event. One 
 mile and a half on the Chester road, occurs 
 
 Offa's Dyke, 
 
 the ancient and famous boundary between Wales and 
 England, extending from Basingwerk, in Flintshire, to 
 Monmouth. All that remains is a small hollow, which 
 runs along the cultivated fields, perhaps not above eigh- 
 teen inches deep in the centre, or more than twenty yards 
 in breadth. When the Romans made their inroads into 
 this island, about the commencement of the Christian 
 era, many of the Britons were said to have retreated 
 into Wales, at which time the river Dee, in the neigh- 
 bourhood of Chester, and the Severn, divided the two 
 countries : all to the east was England, and to the West 
 Wales. This division continued about 600 years, when 
 the ambitious OfFa, coveting the fertile lands of his 
 neighbours, raised a quarrel and an army. He then drove 
 them westward among the mountains, seized their pro- 
 perty, formed this vast dyke, and ordained that neither 
 English nor Welshman should pass it ; thus he divided 
 instead of uniting man, promoted rancour instead of har- 
 mony, and bloodshed instead of peace. 
 
 Tower. 
 On the right of the road leading towards Caergwrle, 
 
236 TOWER MOEL FAMMAU. 
 
 and about a mile from Mold, is an old structure, known 
 by this name, which presents a singular specimen of the 
 style of domestic architecture during the ages of lawless 
 violence in which it was erected : it consists of an an- 
 cient square tower of three stories, and appears to have 
 been designed as a place of fortified habitation. During 
 the wars between the houses of York and Lancaster, it 
 was inhabited by Reinallt ab Gruffydd ab Bleddyn, who 
 was constantly engaged in feuds with the citizens of 
 Chester. In 1495, a considerable number of the latter 
 came to Mold fair, and a fray arising between the hostile 
 parties, great slaughter ensued on both sides ; but Reinallt, 
 who obtained the victory, took the Mayor of Chester 
 prisoner, and conveyed him to his mansion, where he 
 hung him on the staple in his great hall. 
 
 To avenge this affront, a party of two hundred men 
 was despatched from Chester to seize Reinallt, who, re- 
 tiring from his house into the adjoining woods, permitted 
 a few of them to enter the building, when, rushing from 
 his concealment, he blocked up the door, and, setting 
 fire to the house, destroyed them in the flames : he then 
 attacked the remainder, whom he pursued with great 
 slaughter : and such as escaped the sword, were drowned 
 
 in attempting to regain their homes The staple on which 
 
 the mayor was hung still remains fixed in the ceiling of 
 the lower apartment. 
 
 Moel Fammau. 
 On the right of the road to Ruthin, about five miles 
 west of Mold, is a conspicuous eminence, called by this 
 name, rising 1845 feet above the level of the sea. Upon 
 the summit of this mountain, the gentlemen of the county, 
 chiefly, entered into a subscription, and erected a column 
 in 1810, to which the name of the jubilee column was 
 given, to commemorate the fiftieth year of the reign of 
 George III. The first stone was laid by Lord Kenyon, 
 on the 25th October, in the presence of more than 3000 
 people. The monument was executed from designs by T. 
 Harrison, Esq., of Chester, and consists of a rough stone 
 building, of pyramidal form, about 150 feet in height, and 
 60 feet diameter at the base. A square block of stone in 
 the centre marks the division of the two counties, Den- 
 
KILAIN MONA INN MONTGOMERY. 237 
 
 bighshire and Flintshire, and four parishes. From this 
 elevated spot may be seen parts of Staffordshire and 
 Derbyshire ; the Wrekin, in Shropshire ; Snowdon and 
 Cader Idris, in Wales ; and Black Comb, in Cumber- 
 land. 
 
 Kilkain. 
 This village, which lies about four miles from Mold, on 
 the bridle-road to Denbigh, is considered remarkable for 
 the carved roof of its church, which at the dissolution 
 was brought from the abbey of Basingwerk. 
 
 MONA INN, 
 
 (ANGLESEY.) 
 
 Holyhead 12 Menai Bridge 10 
 
 Mona Inn, formerly called Caeau Mon, an excellent 
 hotel, situate midway between Bangor and Holyhead, on 
 the new line of road between those places, which is two 
 or three miles nearer than the old road by Gwindy. 
 Post chaises are kept here. About nine miles beyond the 
 Mona Inn, the mail road crosses the Stanley Sands, by 
 means of an embankment 1300 yards in length, and, 
 upon an average, of 16 feet in height. 
 
 MONTGOMERY, 
 
 (MONTGOMERYSHIRE.) 
 
 Bishop's Castle 9 Newtown 9 
 
 London .....169 Welshpool 8 
 
 This town, the capital of the county, is pleasingly and 
 romantically situated, partly on the summit, and partly 
 on the declivity of a hill, rising from the southern bank 
 of the Severn, and under the shelter of a mountain of 
 loftier elevation : it is clean, chiefly built with brick, and 
 
 not inelegant The town-hall is a neat brick edifice, and 
 
 stands in the middle of the town, the area underneath 
 being used for the market ; the upper part is divided into 
 
238 MONTGOMERY. 
 
 two handsome rooms, lately erected at the expense of 
 Lord Clive, the larger of which is used for assemblies 
 and public meetings, being well lighted, and fitted up in 
 good style ; the smaller, or court-room, is arranged for 
 the business of the Quarter Sessions. On the left of the 
 road leading to Shrewsbury, and at the extremity of the 
 town, is the new gaol and house of correction ; this was 
 built by the county at an expense of £10,000. It is a 
 handsome stone edifice, built in the form of a cross, the 
 governor's house occupying the centre, and command- 
 ing a view of the six wards, into which the building 
 is divided, and likewise of the double treadmill, one 
 wheel of which is appropriated to the felons, and the 
 other to the vagrants; there is also an infirmary, a 
 chapel, rooms for the use of the Magistrates, &c, the 
 whole enclosed by a boundary wall, twenty feet high. 
 — In 1831, the population returns gave to this town 1188 
 inhabitants. The Dragon has the reputation of being the 
 principal inn. 
 
 The town was anciently built and fortified with a 
 castle, by Baldwyn, Lieutenant of the Welsh Marches to 
 William the Conqueror, and then called Tre-Faldwyn, 
 i. e. Baldwyn's town ; but Roger de Montgomery, Earl 
 of Shrewsbury, in 1092, entered Powys-land, and took 
 this place, which he fortified anew, built the castle (ac- 
 cording to Doomsday) and called it after his own name. 
 The town is governed by two bailiffs and twelve bur- 
 gesses ; the market, which is amply supplied with corn 
 and provisions of all kinds, is on Thursday. The church 
 is a handsome cruciform structure, containing an ancient 
 monument to the memory of Richard Herbert, Esq., 
 father of the celebrated Lord Herbert, of Chirbury. The 
 house called Blackball, once the hospitable residence of 
 the family, stood at the bottom of the town ; a fosse 
 marks the spot, for it was consumed by fire. 
 
 Many pretty erections occupy the best places in the 
 adjacent country, apparently inhabited by persons of small 
 independence, who prefer this neighbourhood as a place 
 of retirement. 
 
 The castle is situated on an eminence, on the north 
 side of the town, the approach to which is easy ; but on 
 the opposite side, the rock upon which it is built rises 
 
CEFN DYGOL.— NEVYN. 239 
 
 almost perpendicularly. It is now so much demolished, 
 that it is impossible to ascertain what has been its extent. 
 The remains of an immense British post, which seems to 
 have been defended by four large ditches, are found on 
 an eminence near the site of the castle. A seat belong- 
 ing to the Earl of Powys, called Lymore Lodge, stands 
 about half a mile from the town, on the road to Bishop's 
 Castle. 
 
 Mynydd, or Cefn Dygoll, 
 celebrated for having been the spot where the liberty of 
 the Welsh gave its expiring groan. Here was fought the 
 last contested battle between the hirelings of oppression 
 and the surviving heroes of the fallen Principality. After 
 the death of Llywelyn, the northern Welshmen set up 
 Madoc, his cousin, who assembled a great army, and 
 after several eminent victories at Caernarvon, Denbigh, 
 Knockin, and on the marches, was here overthrown, in 
 1294, by the collected power of the Lords Marchers, 
 after a long contested engagement. 
 
 NEVYN, 
 
 ( CAERNARVON SHIRE.) 
 
 Caernarvon 21 London 270 
 
 Cricaeth 13 Pwllheli 7 
 
 Nevyn is a small market town, situated on the western 
 coast of the county, with a population of 1726 inhabitants, 
 and an indifferent inn. The market is held on Saturday. 
 It is only remarkable as the place where Edward I. in 
 1284, celebrated his conquest of Wales by tournaments, 
 &c. The town has an irregular and rather mean appear- 
 ance, the streets being neither paved nor lighted. The 
 coast in the neighbourhood is bold and rocky, and the 
 surrounding scenery altogether of a mountainous character. 
 There are good roads to this place from Caernarvon and 
 Tremadoc : no manufacture or trade is carried on but that 
 which arises from the circumstance of the town being 
 situated on the sea coast, whereby a communication with 
 Liverpool is maintained, and a little business transacted, 
 
240 NEWBO ROUGH NEWMARKET. 
 
 chiefly however in the way of exchanging commodities. 
 The church is a neat building dedicated to St. Peter, 
 erected in 1824 ; there are likewise various meeting- 
 houses for the different denominations of dissenters. 
 
 On a narrow head -land, jutting out into the sea, about 
 a mile from the town, is Porth yn Lleyn, supposed, from 
 remains of some strong intrenchments, to have been a 
 port frequented by the Romans. 
 
 NEWBOROUGH, 
 
 (ANGLESEY.) 
 
 Aberfraw 7 Menai Bridge 12 
 
 Newborough is at present an inconsiderable village, 
 containing 804 inhabitants, deriving its name from having 
 been constituted a free borough by Edward I. Though 
 at present an insignificant place, it was originally of great 
 importance, and was for many years the residence of the 
 Princes of North Wales, who had a palace here, where, 
 or at Aberfraw, on the opposite side of the Malldraeth 
 sands, they occasionally fixed their seat of government, 
 as the exigencies of that turbulent period might require. 
 At the time of the first conquest of Wales by Edward I. 
 this place appears to have been the chief town in the 
 island, as well as the seat of justice for the whole comot 
 of Menai. In the reign of Henry VII. upon a repre- 
 sentation made to that sovereign, the assizes and other 
 county business were removed from Beaumaris to New- 
 borough, which then became the county town. Having, 
 however, declined from its former importance, in the 
 third year of Edward VI. the assizes, sessions, and 
 general county business were removed back to Beaumaris, 
 where they have been continued ever since. The inha- 
 bitants are chiefly employed in fishing and mat-making. 
 
 NEWMARKET, 
 
 (FLINTSHIRE.) 
 
 Caerwys 5 St. Asaph 6 
 
 Holywell 7 Rhuddlan 4 
 
NEWMARKET. 241 
 
 This village is situated about three miles to the right 
 hand of the great Chester and Holyhead road, and within 
 three miles of the estuary of the Dee. In some old re- 
 cords it is called Rhiw -lawny d ; but Mr. Pennant gives 
 an opinion, that its ancient name was Tre-lawnyd, though 
 he admits he can find no satisfactory reason for it. It 
 was formerly a chapelry in the parish of Dyserth. In 
 the early part of the last century, it attained the distinc- 
 tion of a market town, and was much improved by the 
 erections of John Wynne, Esq. of Gop, the then pro- 
 prietor ; but the market has long been discontinued, and 
 it now occupies the station of but a moderate sized village. 
 The petty sessions for the hundred are held here. 
 
 The living is a perpetual curacy, held in commendam 
 by the Bishop of St. Asaph, who, as Archdeacon, re- 
 ceives all tithes. The church, dedicated to St. Michael, 
 is a small structure of modern date, standing within a 
 spacious cemetry, in which are some fine lofty trees. On 
 the south of the church, and not far distant from the 
 principal entrance, stands a tall and very beautiful stone 
 cross, the upper part finely sculptured in high relief. 
 Here is built one of the charity schools, founded and 
 opened in 1726, by Dr. Daniel Williams, a dissenting 
 minister, with an endowment of £8 a year ; a charity 
 which he extended to every county in North Wales, dis- 
 tinguishing that of Wrexham, the place of his birth, by 
 an annual salary of £15. 
 
 The conjecture of the great antiquary, Mr. Pennant, 
 that from the numerous tumuli and other sepulchral memo- 
 rials visible in the neighbourhood, it was the scene of 
 the slaughter of the Ordovices, by the Romans under 
 Agricola, seems to be well founded. 
 
 Near the village is a hill, called Cop V Herd, on the sum- 
 mit of which is a most enormous carnedd, or tumulus, 
 formed of lime-stones. It covers nearly an acre of ground, 
 and is in height from 20 to 30 yards. The most probable 
 conjecture is, that it was erected over the remains of 
 some distinguished warrior, or chieftain, slain in battle, 
 and in later times, served as an observatory to discern the 
 approach of an enemy, for which purpose it is well cal- 
 culated, as it commands an extensive view both of the 
 
242 NEWMARKET. — NEWTOWN. 
 
 neighbouring encampments, and the estuaries of the Dee 
 and Mersey. 
 
 A short distance from this place, on the brow of another 
 hill, is Bryn y Saethau, or the Hill of Arrows, probably 
 from being the station of the archers in the engagement ; 
 close to this is Bryn y Lladdfa, or the Hill of Slaughter, 
 a name peculiarly appropriated to the site of battle. A 
 little below this again is Pant y Gwae, or the Hollow of 
 Woe. 
 
 Between Newmarket and Mostyn, about one mile and a 
 half distant from the former place, there is on an elevation 
 a singular monument, denominated Maen Achwynfan, or 
 the Stone of Lamentation or Weeping, on which are 
 cut some very curious figures ; the height of the stone is 
 twelve feet, and two feet four inches wide at the base ; 
 the form is that of an ancient obelisk. 
 
 A short time since, one of the tumuli or barrows, was 
 opened in the presence of Mr. Morgan, of Golden Grove, 
 and the Rev. Henry Parry, Vicar of Llanasa, and was 
 found to contain a quantity of bones and boars tusks, the 
 latter in good preservation. An urn, nearly two feet in 
 height, was likewise struck upon, but through the pre- 
 cipitancy of the workmen employed on the occasion, was 
 unfortunately broken into pieces. 
 
 NEWTOWN, 
 
 (MONTGOMERYSHIRE.) 
 
 Bishop's Castle 16 London 179 
 
 Llanidloes 14 Machynlleth 30 
 
 Llanfyllin 19 Welshpool 14 
 
 Newtown, or as it is called by the Welsh Tre'-Newydd, 
 situated on the banks of the Severn, on the road from 
 Welshpool to Aberystwyth, contains 4550 inhabitants — 
 The principal inns are the Bear, and the Angel. The 
 town consists of several streets. Very little is known 
 either of the origin or the early history of this place, 
 which within the last fifty years, from the celebrity of its 
 flannel manufacture, has risen into great importance. A 
 spacious hall has recently been erected, from a design by 
 
NEWTOWN. 243 
 
 Mr. Penson, in which the market for the staple commo- 
 dity of the place is held, each alternate Thursday ; it is 
 also used for the holding of public meetings. There are 
 not less than fifty factories established, which afford 
 employment to more than two thousand persons ; indeed, 
 such is the extent of the trade carried on here, that in a 
 commercial point of view, it rises superior to any other 
 town in North Wales. 
 
 A substantial bridge of stone over the Severn, was 
 completed in 1827, in lieu of an ancient bridge of wood 
 which stood near the site. The new structure, which is 
 called the Long Bridge, consists of three arches of more 
 than sixty feet span. The arches and the parapets are of 
 grey free-stone, and the spears and spandrils of blue 
 stone, found in the neighbourhood. This bridge was 
 erected by the county, at an expence of more than £4000. 
 A stone bridge of one arch was built in 1803, over the 
 town brook, on the road to Welshpool, which by way of 
 distinction, is called the Short Bridge. 
 
 The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is an ancient 
 structure, in the style of English architecture, with a low 
 square tower surmounted with a belfrey of wood. In the 
 interior there are some marble monuments, chiefly to the 
 family of Pryce, of Newtown Hall ; and numerous texts 
 of scripture in frames are hung round the walls. The 
 environs abound with pleasing and romantic scenery, and 
 a fine view of the town is obtained from the summits of 
 the hills on the north and south sides. At the distance 
 of about a mile and a half on the road to Builth, there is 
 a picturesque and strikingly beautiful spot, which is much 
 resorted to by strangers : from the summit of a shelving 
 mass of rock, eighty feet high, a stream of water rushes 
 with impetuosity, forming in its descent a fine cascade, 
 and winds at the base through a glen, which is richly 
 planted with shrubs and trees of various kinds. 
 
 Angling Stations. 
 
 Distances from Newtown. Miles. 
 
 Bettws , 4 
 
 Llanmerewig , 4 
 
 Llanwynog Q 
 
244 
 
 NORTHOP, 
 
 (FLINTSHIRE.) 
 
 Chester 11± Holywell 6 
 
 Flint 3 London 194 
 
 Hawarden 4J Mold 3 
 
 A large and pleasantly situated village, in a fertile part 
 of the country, surrounded by numerous seats, and elegant 
 villas. In ancient records this place is called Northorpe, 
 derived from North and Thorpe, the latter word, in the 
 Saxon language, signifying village or town. It had the 
 appellation North to distinguish it from East or Queen's 
 Hope. The Welsh name is Llan-Eurgain, from the 
 dedication of its first church to St. Eurgain, daughter of 
 the Prince Maelgwn Gwynedd, and niece of St. Asaph, 
 the second Bishop of the see, which from him derived 
 its name. The malting and tanning trades are carried on 
 here on a moderate scale ; the Red Lion is considered 
 the principal inn. 
 
 The church stands on a small eminence, and is a low 
 irregular building, embattled in the front, and supported 
 by clumsy buttresses. The length is 113 feet within, and 
 the breadth 38^ feet. It consists of two aisles ; the east 
 end of the north aisle, called Capel Vair, or St. Mary's 
 Chapel, was probably the original church : it is different 
 from the rest of the edifice in style of building and roof- 
 ing ; the latter is slanting and slated, the former flat and 
 covered with lead. It has two entrances, one in the 
 north side, and the other in the south, the latter through 
 a handsome stone porch, which opens into the aisle. On 
 a window in St. Mary's chapel is the following inscrip- 
 tion, " Sancte, Lansenie, Daniel, Maria, Damese, 
 William ap John ap Gr., Madoke, Vechanne; as, ejus 
 a ma m II mo cccccxx. (milesimo, 1520.)" There have 
 been three dedications of Northop church ; the first to 
 St. Eurgain, the second to St. Mary, and the third to 
 St. Peter Several improvements have lately been effect- 
 ed in the church ; a new gallery has been erected, and 
 many new pews made. The steeple is the finest and 
 loftiest in North Wales, excepting that of Wrexham 
 
NORTHOP. 245 
 
 It is built of free-stone, dug out of a quarry in the parish, 
 near a place called Farm. The workmanship is excel- 
 lent, adorned with eight pinnacles, and has double bell- 
 windows ; it stands 27 feet square at the base, and is 98 
 feet high, with three large, but discordant bells. The 
 date of its erection, 1571. 
 
 The most remarkable monuments in this church are 
 three effigies, formed of free-stone ; one of a corpulent 
 person, with a helmet and a coat of mail ; in the right 
 
 hand is a plain lance, and in the left a sword This 
 
 effigy is supposed to represent Edwyn ab Gorono ab 
 Owen ab Howel Dda ; the same Edwyn, being Prince of 
 Tegeingl, was buried here in 1073. The other effigy is 
 that of a warrior in complete armour ; on his shield is a 
 cross pattee, charged in the middle, with a mullet be- 
 tween four others ; supposed to represent Ithel Vychan 
 ab Bleddyn, a descendant of the said Edwyn, living in 
 the beginning of the fourteenth century. The third is 
 the effigy of a lady, having a square towered head-dress, 
 a necklace hanging down to her waist, and her close vest 
 bound with a girdle ; representing Lleuci Llwyd, daugh- 
 ter of Rhys ab Rotpert of Kinmael, buried in 1482. 
 
 The living consists of a rectory and vicarage ; the for- 
 mer is a sinecure annexed to the Bishoprick of St. 
 Asaph ; to the latter is attached the parochial chapelry of 
 Flint, and is in the patronage of the Bishop of St. 
 Asaph. Present incumbent, the Rev. Henry Jones. — 
 There are seven dissenting places of worship in the 
 parish, four of which belong to the Calvinistic Metho- 
 dists, two to the Wesleyans, and one to the Baptists. 
 Here are two free schools liberally endowed ; and a na- 
 tional school was established in 1823, in which about 150 
 children are taught, the house belonging to which is a. . 
 commodious building, standing a little above the village. 
 
 The parish of Northop is situated in the hundred of 
 Cwnsyll, and bounded on the north-east by the estuary 
 of the Dee, on the south by the parishes of Ha war den 
 and Mold, on the west by the parish of Cilcain, and on 
 the north by the parishes of Halkin and Holywell. The 
 length of the parish, from the boundary stone on Halkin 
 mountain to Gwybre Gutter, is about six miles ; its 
 breadth, from Nant Bagillt to the sea, about five miles, 
 
'246 OSWESTRY; 
 
 and contains about 6,000 acres of land, nearly the whole 
 of which is in cultivation : improvement in agriculture 
 is here making rapid progress. The population of the 
 parish in 1831 was 3026. 
 
 Coals in abundance are to be found in the lower parts 
 of the parish, and some of the works have been for years, 
 and are at the present time, extensively carried on ; im- 
 mense quantities are conveyed by iron rail-roads to Con- 
 nah's Quay, and there shipped off for Chester, Liver- 
 pool, and Dublin. Lead ore, in small quantities, is 
 found in the township of Caer Allwch. 
 
 OSWESTRY, 
 
 (SHROPSHIRE.) 
 
 Chirk « 5 Shrewsbury 18 
 
 Ellesmere 8 Welshpool 16 
 
 Llanfyllin 14 Wrexham 14 
 
 This town, though not situated in Wales, is so con- 
 tiguous, that it is frequently visited by travellers, either 
 on commencing or terminating their tour, particularly 
 those who pass to or from Shrewsbury ; Oswestry lying 
 on the great line of road from Llangollen to the former 
 place. It is a borough town, governed by a mayor, high 
 steward, twelve aldermen, fifteen common-councilmen, 
 assisted by a recorder, coroner, town-clerk, murenger, 
 and other officers. The town occupies the declivity of a 
 range of hills, which skirt it on the western side, and 
 commands an extensive view over the fertile plain of 
 Salop. The streets are well paved and lighted : the old 
 buildings of timber and brick have "been succeeded by re- 
 spectable modern edifices ; and the town, which has long 
 been stretched beyond its ancient boundaries, is still pro- 
 gressively increasing in extent and importance. Within 
 the town, the population by the last census was 3910. 
 A neat theatre, in Willow-street, is occupied by a re- 
 spectable company in the autumn ; races are held annu- 
 ally in September ; and accommodation for occasional as- 
 semblies is provided at the Wynnstay Arms, which is 
 considered the principal inn. 
 
OSWESTRY OVERTON. 247 
 
 The sale of Welsh flannel and cotton goods was for- 
 merly carried on here to a great extent, but about 1625 
 was removed to Shrewsbury. The principal business of 
 the town is in malting, with some remains of the flannel 
 trade ; the markets are on Wednesday and Saturday, 
 the former being principal. Coal abounds in this neigh- 
 bourhood. Courts for the borough, and petty sessions 
 for the hundred, are held here, for which purpose suit- 
 able buildings have been erected. 
 
 The church, dedicated to St. Oswald, was originally 
 the conventual church of the ancient monastery, and was 
 greatly damaged during the commotions of 1616 and 
 1644, at which latter period the tower was taken down 
 by the royalists, lest, as it stood without the town walls, 
 their opponents should annoy them from its summit. On 
 the north side of the churchyard is a pleasant walk, 
 shaded by a double row of lime trees, and terminated by 
 an alcove. In 1810, a chapel of ease was erected at 
 Tref-onnen, in this parish, by subscription, for the ac- 
 commodation of the Welsh inhabitants, the service be- 
 ing performed in the Welsh language. There are also 
 places of worship for Baptists, Independents, Calvinistic 
 and Wesleyan Methodists. There is likewise a free-school, 
 liberally endowed, a national school, a house of industry, 
 and a society for ameliorating the condition of the poor. 
 The town was formerly surrounded by walls, on which 
 stood several towers, and the entrance was through four 
 gates, one of which was taken down in 1766, and the 
 others in 1782. 
 
 OVERTON, 
 
 (FLINTSHIRE.) 
 
 Ellesmere 5 Wrexham 7 
 
 This is a neat little village, beautifully situated on ele- 
 vated ground, on the banks of the Dee, over which 
 river is a handsome stone bridge of two lofty arches, con- 
 necting the counties of Denbigh and Flint, and on the 
 road leading from Chester to Shrewsbury. The sur- 
 rounding scenery is beautifully picturesque, being com- 
 
248 OVERTON PENMAEN MAWR. 
 
 posed of a great diversity of features in pleasing combi- 
 nation and agreeable contrast. From the ridge near the 
 village is seen, on one side, an extensive plain of ver- 
 dant meadows, enlivened by the windings of the Dee, 
 skirted in front by fertile and richly- wooded slopes, and 
 bounded in the distance by the lofty summits of the sur- 
 rounding mountains ; on the other side, the vale of 
 Cheshire, abounding with richly diversified and highly 
 picturesque scenery, and the fertile and open plains of 
 Salop, in luxuriant cultivation, are seen in all their 
 beauty. 
 
 The village is pleasing and prepossessing in its appear- 
 ance, and with its venerable church, as seen from almost 
 every point of view, forms a picturesque and highly in- 
 teresting feature in the landscape. In the churchyard are 
 several fine yew trees, which for their size and beauty 
 have been ranked among the seven wonders of North 
 Wales. — The site of the ancient castle occupies the brow 
 of a lofty promontory overlooking the river Dee ; and in 
 the park of Gwernhaeled, in this parish, are the remains 
 of a large circular camp, surrounded by a rampart of 
 earth, called the Castle Yard : it commands the whole of 
 the country to the west of the river, and near it is a tu- 
 mulus, twenty-two yards in length, and twelve yards 
 broad, raised to a considerable height ; it is called the 
 Giant's Grave, but nothing is recorded of its origin or 
 history. In this vicinity is the elegant seat of F. It. 
 Price, Esq. called Bryn-y-pys. 
 
 Angling Station The Dee up to Llangollen. 
 
 PENMAEN MAWR, 
 
 (CAERNARVONSHIRE.) 
 
 Aber 4 Conway 6 
 
 Bangor 9 Port Penrhyn 8 
 
 Penmaen Mawr is an immense hill, and so denominat- 
 ed from being the last of the long chain of mountains 
 which cross the country. This mountain, along which 
 the road from Chester to Holyhead passes, protruding it- 
 
PENMAEN MAWR. 249 
 
 self into the sea, exhibits a fine contrast with the ad- 
 jacent fertility, by a wildly scenic view of weather- 
 beaten rocks. This was justly once the dread of the 
 neighbourhood ; the immense promontory affording only 
 a narrow zig-zag path along the shelf of its side for the 
 terrified traveller to pass. Under his feet were showers 
 of rugged stones, impeding his progress ; beneath, a 
 hundred fathoms down, the roaring ocean foaming against 
 the perpendicular base of the mountain ; and over his 
 head, the impending precipice, momentarily threatening 
 by its shivering aspect to overwhelm or hurry him head- 
 long down the craggy steep. The danger, from the de- 
 clivity of the mountain, with the crumbling nature of the 
 strata, increased with his progress, and, in several diffi- 
 cult parts of the road, one false step must have inevitably 
 proved fatal. 
 
 From the numerous accidents that occurred, it was 
 long an object of melancholy consideration to the inhabit- 
 ants in the vicinity ; the winter evenings were often spent 
 in the alarming tales of the perils and disasters attendant 
 on passing Penmaen Mawr. Mr. Pennant relates the fol- 
 lowing occurrences on this road, which, in their result, 
 seem little less than miracles : — " The Rev. Mr. Jones, 
 who, in 1762, was rector of Llanelian, in the isle of 
 Anglesey, fell with his horse, and a midwife behind him, 
 down the steepest part. The sage femme perished, as 
 did the nag. The divine, however, with great philoso- 
 phy, unsaddled the steed, and marched off with the trap- 
 pings, exulting at his preservation. — I have often heard 
 of another accident (continues he) attended with such ro- 
 mantic circumstances, that I would not venture to men- 
 tion it had I not the strongest traditional authority, to 
 this day in the mouth of every one in the parish of Llan- 
 fair Fechan, in which this promontory stands. Sion 
 Humphries, of this parish, paid his addresses to Ann 
 Thomas, of Creuddyn, on the other side of Conway 
 river. They had made an appointment to meet at a fair 
 in the town of Conway. He, in his way, fell over Pen- 
 maen Mawr ; she was overset in the ferry-boat, and was 
 the only person saved out of more than fourscore. They 
 were married, and lived very long together in the parish 
 of Llanfair. She was buried April 11th, 1744, aged 116. 
 
250 PENMAEN MAWR. 
 
 He survived her five years, and was buried December 
 10th, 1749, close by her in the parish- churchyard, where 
 their graves are familiarly shewn to this day." 
 
 Even since the new road was cut, namely, on the 31st 
 of July, 1801, during a tremendous storm of thunder, a 
 mass of stone, supposed to weigh several thousand tons, 
 was loosened from its bed, and precipitated with a dread- 
 crash into the sea ; it swept down that part of the wall, 
 and left about one hundred and fifty tons upon the road. 
 A woman and horse narrowly escaped destruction, having 
 but just passed the place when the accident happened — 
 This body of rock appears to have been unfixed by the 
 torrent of water that was oozing down on all sides. 
 All the carriages, among which was the mail, were stop- 
 ped for several hours, till a body of the country people, 
 who immediately set to work upon it, were able to clear 
 away so much of the rubbish as to allow them a passage. 
 
 Before this road was formed, the usual mode of going 
 between Conway and Bangor was either in boats or, 
 waiting the departure of the tides, to proceed along the 
 sands at low water. The latter mode was frequently at- 
 tended with danger, owing to the soft places made by 
 the soft water streams, and the hollows formed by the 
 tides, of the depth of which, when filled with water, 
 the guide could not always be certain. Few carriages at 
 that time were taken betwixt the two towns, but nearly 
 all the travellers had to go on horseback. This pass 
 must then have presented very formidable difficulties, 
 and the description of Dry den, in his " Rival Laches," 
 is a pretty accurate representation : — 
 
 As from a steep and dreadful precipice, 
 
 The frighted traveller casts down his eyes. 
 
 And sees the ocean at so great a distance, 
 
 It looks as if the skies were sunk beneath him. 
 
 If then some neighbouring shrub, how weak soever, 
 
 Peeps, his willing eyes stop gladly there, 
 
 And seem to ease themselves and rest upon it. 
 
 Formerly there was a house of entertainment at the 
 foot of the ascent each way, and on the signs distiches, 
 allusive to the hazardous and laborious journey, said to 
 
PENMAEN MAWR. 251 
 
 have been the composition of Dean Swift, when travers- 
 ing that country on his way to Ireland : — The one, 
 
 Before you venture hence to pass, 
 Take a good refreshing glass. 
 The other, 
 
 Now you're over take another, 
 Your drooping spirits to recover. 
 
 In 1772, an application was made to parliament, and a 
 generous aid was granted for the purpose of improving 
 and securing this part of the road to Holyhead. A 
 voluntary subscription, in which the city of Dublin bore 
 a distinguished part, was also added ; and under the 
 judicious management of that able engineer, Mr. Sylvester, 
 what was deemed beyond the power of human art to 
 remedy, was speedily effected; the road is widened a 
 proper breadth for carriages to pass each other, by cutting 
 the solid rock ; while the side towards the sea is secured 
 by a wall built upon a series of arches, meeting the 
 irregularity of the precipice, with circular holes, at 
 regular distances, to take off the great quantity of water, 
 descending from the mountains, in rainy seasons. The 
 road, however, could only have been repaired in 1772, not 
 entirely made, as some writers state, its being defended by 
 a wall towards the sea, at a much earlier period, which is 
 obvious from a passage in a tour through Great Britain, 
 printed by Strahan, in 1725. " We went over the famous 
 precipice called Penmaen Mawr, which fame has made 
 abundantly more frightful than it really is ; it is indeed 
 very high, and if any one should fall from it, he would 
 be dashed to pieces ; yet, on the other hand, there is no 
 danger of falling ; and besides, there is now a wall built 
 all the way on the edge of the precipice to secure them ; 
 those who have been at the hill or pass of Enterkin, in 
 Scotland, know very well, the danger there is much 
 greater." Since this, the road has undergone very consid- 
 erable improvements, under the direction of Mr. Telford, 
 by order of the parliamentary commissioners, and was 
 Opened in 1827. 
 
 On the summit of a hill called Braich y Dinas, rising 
 out of Penmaen, are the ruins of a castle, the fortifications 
 
*25'2 PENMAEN MAWR PENMORFA. 
 
 of which were capable of containing 20,000 men ; the re- 
 mains of walls are still standing, and a well that supplied 
 the garrison is constantly full of water, furnished prin- 
 cipally by the condensed vapour of the mountain. This 
 was considered the strongest post possessed by the Bri- 
 tons in the district of Snowdon : it was of great magni- 
 tude, and so strong by its natural position, that a hundred 
 men might have defended themselves against an army ; 
 in that age it was deemed impregnable, and here it was 
 the remains of the Welsh army were posted, pending the 
 negotiation betwixt Edward I. and Llywelyn, The ruin 
 consists of remains of ancient massy walls, constructed 
 without mortar, including numerous circular buildings, 
 probably vestiges of habitations, similar to those at Tre 
 'r Caen. There cannot exist a doubt upon the mind of 
 persons who have attentively viewed the different forti- 
 fied heights still subsisting in Wales, but this was a mili- 
 tary fortress, erected by the Britons to cover the passage 
 of an army for the defence of Anglesey, notwithstanding 
 what Governor Pownall has urged contrary to this gene- 
 rally received opinion. His conjecture of its having 
 never been intended as a defensive post is, from the tes- 
 timony of history, rendered nugatory ; and to those who 
 have visited the spot, his opinion that it was one of the 
 consecrated places belonging to the Druids, will appear 
 nothing better than antiquarian vagary. 
 
 PENMORFA, 
 
 (CAERNARVONSHIRE.) 
 
 Bedd -gelert 7 Pont Aberglasly n ... 5£ 
 
 Pwllheli 11 Tremadoc 1 
 
 Penmorfa, or the Head of the Marsh, is a small wood- 
 clad village, romantically situated on the western bank 
 of Traeth Mawr, but is so much out of the way of tour- 
 ists as to be seldom visited. The church is small, and 
 dedicated to St. Beuno, having within a small monument 
 to the memory of Sir John Owen, a General and sup- 
 porter of Charles L, who, being taken prisoner at a bat- 
 tle near Bangor, was condemned to die by the parlia- 
 
PENMYNYDJ) .-CENTRE VOELAS. 253 
 
 ment; but, through theintercession of Ireton, his advo- 
 cate, he was, after a few month's imprisonment, liberated. 
 Formerly there was a ford from Penmorfa, across 
 Traeth Mawr and Traeth Bach, to the roads leading to 
 Tan-y-Bwlch and Harlech ; to cross these sands was at- 
 tended with great danger, for the tide frequently washed 
 deep holes in them. At the present day, however, there 
 is an excellent road over the Tremadoc embankment, a 
 little lower on the right of the Ffestiniog rail-road. 
 
 PENMYNYDD, 
 
 (ANGLESEY.) 
 
 Beaumaris 6 Plas Newydd 5 
 
 Penmynydd is situated on the eastern side of Anglesey, 
 near the great post road from Bangor to Holyhead, six 
 miles from the Menai bridge. It is celebrated as being 
 the native place of Owen Tudor. The remains of the 
 ancient family mansion of the Tudors, are now incorpo- 
 rated in a farm-house, in which are preserved some ves- 
 tiges of its former owners, including the great mantel- 
 piece in the hall, and some coats of arms. Several dates 
 will be found in various parts of the building. In the 
 church is one of their monuments, removed from Llan- 
 vaes abbey at its dissolution. 
 
 In visiting this place, Mr. Hutton walked 33 miles to 
 examine it, and spent two days in making enquiries, 
 though at the age of 77 ; yet the only remark that this 
 close observation elicits, is as follows : — n The chief 
 that is said of Owen in history is, that ' he was accom- 
 plished, and a handsome Welsh gentleman.' " 
 
 PENTRE VOELAS, 
 
 (DENBIGHSHIRE.) 
 
 Capel Curig 11 Llanrwst 11 
 
 Denbigh 16 Maen-Twrog 16 
 
 Ffestiniog 17 
 
 A small hamlet, on the great London and Holyhead 
 
254 PLAS NBWYtii). 
 
 road, with a comfortable inn. About four miles distant 
 is the Conway waterfalls. A new road has lately been 
 formed from hence to Denbigh, and another to Ffestiniog. 
 
 PLAS NEWYDD, 
 
 (ANGLESEY.) 
 
 Caernarvon 6 Llanidan 3 
 
 Plas Newydd, the new mansion, anciently Llwyn 
 Moel, the grove on the hill, one of the principal groves 
 in Anglesey, sacred to Druidic worship, is now the mag- 
 nificent seat of the Marquis of Anglesey. The mansion 
 is castellated ; the front is composed of a centre nearly 
 semi-lunar, with two wings semi-sectagonal ; these re- 
 ceive a bold and happy finish from octagonal turrets, ris- 
 ing from the basement of each angle of the front and 
 wings, several feet above the embattled parapet, finishing 
 in small spires. It is beautifully situated on a curve of 
 the Menai, protected on three sides by venerable oak 
 trees, and about one hundred yards of the strait, with a 
 fine lawn in front, sloping to the edge of the water, and 
 defended from the encroachment of the sea by a strong 
 parapet embattled wall. 
 
 It was here the noble proprietor had the distinguished 
 honour of entertaining his late Majesty George IV. on 
 his visit to Ireland in 1821 ; and also, at the invitation of 
 the Noble Marquis, who was then exercising his official 
 duties as Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, Her Royal High- 
 ness the Duchess of Kent, and her illustrious daughter 
 the Princess Victoria, took up their residence for several 
 weeks in the summer of 1 832, during the time of hold- 
 ing the Eisteddfod at Beaumaris, where they visited and 
 occasionally resided. 
 
 Opposite the stables, behind the house, stands the 
 
 completest cromlech in Anglesey, perhaps in Britain 
 
 The cap stone of this ancient British monument is twelve 
 feet long in the centre, and ten broad. On one side it is 
 twelve and a half feet long, and only eight on the other. 
 A corner seems always to have been wanting. The head, 
 or upper end of this stone, which lies flat and points to- 
 
PLAS NEWYDD. 255 
 
 wards the east, is, in the thickest part, four and a half 
 feet, and the other end three and a half feet. This pon- 
 derous weight was supported by seven upright stones four 
 feet high, or rather the irregular points of seven, but two 
 of them have fallen. One lies within, and the other is 
 in an inclined position near the foot. It may give an idea 
 of this druidic erection, which has weathered out more 
 than 2000 years, to suppose it the inside of a small room, 
 four feet high and six wide, supported by five stones. 
 As the cromlech stands on the declivity of an eminence, 
 the cap stone on one side is only two feet from the ground, 
 that ground being also a little elevated, but on the other 
 side four feet. Eleven inches from the lower end stands 
 a much smaller cromlech. 
 
 About a quarter of a mile behind the house south, is a 
 large carnedd ; which once covered a space of ground 
 142 yards in circumference, raised into a pyramid with 
 stones, nearly the same size, thrown promiscuously 
 together, and mixed with soil to favour the growth of 
 trees on the surface. One of its recent proprietors, sup- 
 posing this mound a mere heap of rubbish, began to level 
 it, but meeting with human bones, the workmen were 
 ordered to desist. The present state of the carnedd is a 
 bank about ninety yards in circumference, and fourteen 
 feet high, composed of stones covered with grass, and 
 here and there a tree. This bank is also sloped down on 
 the inside in the form of a bowl or dish. At the bottom 
 of this hollow lies a flat stone, six feet square, which, 
 supported at one end and two sides by other upright 
 stones, leaves an opening into which a man might creep. 
 At the far end is another stone, which lies in the same 
 state, but is only about four feet square ; and at six 
 yards distance are some other parts. 
 
 " Various conjectures," says Mr. Hutton, " have been 
 spent on these venerable pieces of antiquity ; but I have 
 no doubt of the great cromlech having been appropriated 
 for the sacrifice ; the lesser, for the use of the priest, 
 while he attended it. This altar of death was probably 
 in use many centuries prior to the extinction of druidic 
 worship. It excites a melancholy idea, when we consi- 
 der what a number of lives, both of the human and brute 
 creation, have been sacrificed upon this fatal stone ! We 
 
256 PLAS NEWYDD PONT Y GLYN. 
 
 might naturally ask, is that religion which delights in_ 
 blood? can that man be a preper minister of religion, 
 whose daily practice is cutting throats ? And can that 
 people, who delight in such spectales, be any other than 
 savages ?" Mr. Bingley differs much from this opinion, 
 when he says, "That these erections should have been 
 as altars from druidic sacrifices, seems altogether impossi- 
 ble. The upper stones are, in general, too small, and 
 much too high for a fire to be kindled upon them sufficient 
 to consume the victim, without burning the officiating 
 priest. The upper stones of several of them were also 
 so thin, that the intenseness of the sacrificial fire would 
 have cracked and broken them. " One fact speaks strongly 
 in favour of Mr. Hutton's opinion, which is, that these 
 altars are uniformly lower at one end, and have a channel 
 cut in them, as if for the conveyance of blood. There 
 are twenty-eight comlechs yet to be found in the island 
 of Anglesey. 
 
 A short distance from Plas Newydd, is Mr. Saunder- 
 son's beautiful cottage, in the formation and embellish- 
 ments of which that gentleman has displayed peculiar 
 taste ; and about half a mile to the west, within the park, 
 is also Llanidan Hall, the seat of Lord Boston. 
 
 On Craig y Dinas, a rock on the side of the London 
 and Holyhead road, about midway between the Menai 
 bridge and Plas Newydd, stands the Anglesey Column, 
 erected to commemorate the exploits of the noble Mar- 
 quis. The first stone was laid June 18, 1816, being the 
 anniversary of the battle of Waterloo, and the pillar was 
 completed September 8, in the following year. Its 
 height from the base is 100 feet, and the summit of the 
 hill on which it is built rises 260 feet above the level of 
 the sea. 
 
 PONT Y GLYN, 
 
 (DENBIGHSHIRE.) 
 
 Bala 12 Corwen 6 
 
 Pont y Glyn, the bridge of the precipice, is situated 
 on the great Holyhead and London road, between Corwen 
 
PONT Y GLYN PWLLHELI. 257 
 
 and Cerniogau Mawr. Mr. Bingley, who visited this 
 place from Corwen, speaks very highly of the general 
 beauties of the walk, especially where the vale of Edeyrn- 
 ion appears, bounded by the Berwyn mountains ; and on 
 this bridge and its scenery remarks as follows: — " The 
 woody glen, at the head of which stands Pont y Glyn , 
 with its prominent rocks, nearly obscured by the sur- 
 rounding foliage, after a while presented itself; then im- 
 mediately on a sudden turn of the road appeared the 
 bridge thrown over the chasm. Beneath it was the rugged 
 and precipitous bed of the river, where, among immense 
 masses and fragments of rocks, the stream foamed with 
 the most violent impetuosity. The transition to this ro- 
 mantic scene was so momentary as to seem almost the 
 effect of magic. 
 
 The cataract is not very lofty, but from its being di- 
 rectly under the bridge, where the foam was seen dashing 
 among the dark opposing rocks, with the addition of the 
 pendant foliage from each side, a scene was formed alto- 
 gether finely picturesque and elegant. The bridge rests 
 upon two nearly perpendicular rocks, and appeared to be 
 50 or 60 feet above the bed of the stream. The view 
 thence down the hollow was grand and tremendous." 
 
 PWLLHELI, 
 
 (CAERNARVONSHIRE.) 
 
 Caernarvon 22 London 250 
 
 Chester 93 Nevyn 7 
 
 Cricaeth 8 
 
 Pwllheli, or the salt water pit, is a market town and 
 sea-port, the population of which is about 1500 inhabit- 
 ants. The market is held on Wednesday and Saturday. 
 The Crown and Anchor, where post-chaises may be had, 
 is accounted the principal inn ; the Ship and Ivy Bush 
 are respectable. The town is well built, and within 
 these few last years it has become a fashionable place for 
 bathing. The parish church, which is situated about half 
 a mile to the north of the town, is very small and much 
 dilapidated. To remedy this, a new church has just been 
 
258 PWLLHELI RHUDDLAN. 
 
 erected in the town, though funerals are still solemnized 
 at the old church of Dynei'o. The new church, dedicated 
 to St. Peter, was consecrated by the Bishop of Bangor, 
 September 16, 1834. It is a neat and chaste edifice, 
 substantial without extraneous ornament, capable of ac- 
 commodating a large congregation. The whole cost has 
 been above £1500, chiefly defrayed by voluntary con- 
 tributions ; the land was given by the late Lord New- 
 borough — There are places of worship for all the deno- 
 minations of dissenters. 
 
 The town-hall, erected in 1818, is a neat substantial 
 edifice, the lower part of which is appropriated on mar- 
 ket days as shambles, and the upper part contains an 
 excellent assembly room, and a room in which the petty 
 sessions are held. The government of the town is vest- 
 ed in a mayor, recorder, two bailiffs, and the burgesses, 
 assisted by a sergeant at mace, and other officers. The 
 commerce consists entirely in the importation of coal and 
 of shop goods from Liverpool, for the supply of which 
 to the surrounding country Pwllheli forms a great depot, 
 and is esteemed the cheapest place for living in North 
 Wales. This is one of the contributary boroughs which, 
 with Caernarvon, returns a member to parliament. 
 
 The surrounding scenery comprehends many pictures 
 of grandeur and of beauty ; and a view from the town, 
 embracing the whole extent of the Snowdon mountains, 
 the Merionethshire hills, and Cardigan bay, is truly 
 magnificent. 
 
 RHUDDLAN, 
 
 (FLINTSHIRE. ) 
 
 Abergele 5 Holywell 11 
 
 Flint 16 London 220 
 
 The name of Rhuddlan, which is of very great anti- 
 quity, is supposed to be derived from the red colour of 
 the soil on the banks of the river Clwyd ; it contains, 
 with the chapelry of Rhyl, 1506 inhabitants. The village 
 lies in a flat, on the eastern bank of the river Clwyd, 
 about two miles from its influx into the sea. The river is 
 
EHUDDLAN. 259 
 
 here a little extended in width, so as, at high water, to 
 admit vessels of 50 tons up to the bridge. 
 
 Rhuddlan was formerly a place of considerable magni- 
 tude and importance ; but no traces whatever of these 
 are left, except in the ruins of its castle. Edward I. 
 annexed to it the privileges of a free borough, to facilitate 
 an intercourse between the Welsh and English, for the 
 purpose of allaying the rooted enmity and the unhappy 
 jealousies that had for centuries rent the two countries. 
 In all his proceedings this monarch exhibited strong 
 features of policy. He had been early taught that when 
 stratagem would supply the place of men and treasure, it 
 was at least wise, if not always just, to adopt it. Hence 
 originated the statute of Rhuddlan, and hence was his 
 infant son proclaimed Prince of Wales. This statute, 
 which was passed in parliament assembled here in the 
 year 1283, contains a set of regulations for the govern- 
 ment of Wales ; it also recites many curious particulars 
 relative to the Welsh customs previous to Edward's con- 
 quest, against which it was in a great measure directed. 
 
 His imposing upon them his son, who had not long 
 before been born at Caernarvon, for a Prince, is an 
 instance of craft which we are surprised to observe in so 
 great a monarch as Edward. He assembled the Welsh, 
 barons and great men, and informed them, that in con- 
 sequence of their long expressed desire to have a Prince, 
 a native of their own country, he had at length determined 
 to indulge them, in nominating one whose whole life had 
 been hitherto irreproachable, and could not even speak 
 one word of English. Little did they think, when ex- 
 pressing their acclamations of joy and unbounded promises 
 of obedience, that the Prince he was about to invest, 
 who was so immaculate, had scarcely been born twelve 
 months, and was at least able to speak as much English 
 as Welsh. The scheme in a great measure succeeded ; 
 and, aided by the strength he at that time had obtained 
 in the country, and the additional force that he brought 
 into it from England, he totally subdued this warlike 
 people. " I confess, however," says Mr. Vaughan, of 
 Hengwrt, near Dolgellau, " we have reason to bless God 
 for his mercy to us, in our happy -establishment under 
 one monarch. We may well say we were conquered to 
 our gain and undone to our advantage." 
 
260 RHUDDLAN CASTLE. 
 
 Betwixt the village and the sea is a large marsh, called 
 Morva Rhuddlan, the Marsh of Rhuddlan, where, in the 
 year 725, a dreadful battle was fought between the 
 Saxons, under Offa, King of Mercia, and the Welsh, in 
 which the latter, after an obstinate conflict, were defeated 
 with dreadful slaughter, and Caradoc, King of North 
 Wales, with many [of his principal chieftains, was slain. 
 Such of the Welsh as escaped the sword of the enemy, 
 perished in the marsh, from the influx of the tides ; and 
 all who were taken prisoners were inhumanly massacred, 
 without much regard to age or sex. In commemoration of 
 this disastrous event, was composed the well-known 
 Welsh air of " Morva Rhuddlan," which is so deservedly 
 admired for the plaintive sweetness of its melody. Ac- 
 cording to the Welsh chronicles, it would appear that 
 Offa himself fell in this engagement, but the Saxon 
 annals place his death a year earlier. 
 
 The bridge at Rhuddlan consists of two arches, built 
 or re-built in 1595, with an impression of the arms of 
 Hughes, Bishop of St. Asaph, upon one of the battle- 
 ments. The church has nothing remarkable about it, 
 except an ancient grave-stone, with a flowery cross and 
 sword. 
 
 At a private house in this village, is shewn part of the 
 building where Edward I. held the parliament which 
 passed the statute of Rhuddlan, in 1283 ; the observation 
 of the tourist will be directed to it by the following 
 inscription on the building : — " This fragment is the 
 remains of the building where King Edward the first held 
 his parliament, a. d. 1283, in which was passed the 
 statute of Rhuddlan, securing to the principality its 
 judicial rights and independence." — The Black-a-Moor 
 is the best inn. 
 
 Rhuddlan Castle. 
 This castle is built of red stone, nearly square, and 
 has six towers, two at each of the opposite corners, and 
 only one at each of the others. One of these was called 
 Twr y Brenin, the King's tower. It had a double ditch 
 on the north, and a strong wall and base all round. In 
 this wall a tower, called Twr y Silod, is yet standing. 
 The principal entrance appears to have been at the north- 
 
RHUDDLAN CASTLE. 261 
 
 west angle betwixt two round towers ; the two opposite 
 to these are much shattered, but the remainder are 
 tolerably entire. 
 
 There is some difference of opinion as to the period at 
 which this castle was first erected. Two celebrated 
 historians, Powel and Camden, attribute it, and appar- 
 ently with justice, to Llywelyn ap Sitsyllt, who reigned 
 in Wales at the commencement of the eleventh century, 
 and who, they inform us, made it the place of his resi- 
 dence. In 1063, three years before William the Con- 
 queror came to the throne, Rhuddlah castle was in the 
 possession of GrufFydd ap Llywelyn, Prince of North 
 Wales. It was in that year attacked and burnt by 
 Harold, the son of Godwin, Earl of Kent (afterwards 
 King of England), in retaliation for some depredations 
 committed by the Welsh on the English borders. The 
 Prince was apprised of his danger the moment before the 
 English troops presented themselves at the gates. He 
 had only one mode of escape, which, however, he im- 
 mediately adopted : he fled, with a few of his attendants, 
 to one of the vessels at that time in the harbour, and, 
 favoured by a fair wind, fortunately for himself got off 
 in safety. 
 
 The Welsh soon built this barrier fortress, which ap- 
 pears to have been of no small importance to them in 
 excursions upon their neighbours, affording them a refuge 
 whenever they were driven back, or had the misfortune 
 to be worsted in combat. From this period it met with 
 a various fate ; sometimes in the hands of the English, 
 and sometimes of the natives. Amid these events, rapidly 
 occurring between the contending parties, Randal Blun- 
 deville, Earl of Chester, was suddenly and unexpectedly 
 attacked in this fortress by a body of Welsh, and with an 
 incompetent force for long resistance, lay here in the 
 most tantalizing distress, till he was relieved by his 
 lieutenant, Roger de Lacy, who with vast promptitude 
 collected a number of idle people of all descriptions, 
 such as itinerant minstrels, fiddlers, tinkers, panders, 
 &c. &c. at Chester, by dint of numbers, put the besiegers 
 to flight. This incident occurred in 1220. 
 
 In 1399, the castle was seized by the Earl of Northum- 
 berland, previous to the deposition of Richard II. who 
 
262 
 
 dined here, in company with the Earl, in his way to Flint, 
 where he was treacherously delivered into the power of 
 his rival Bolingbroke. 
 
 In the civil wars, Rhuddlan was garrisoned for the 
 King, but was surrendered to General Mytton in July 
 1646, and in the December following was ordered by 
 the parliament to be dismantled. It is at present the 
 property of the crown. 
 
 Angling Station Cwm, three miles from Rhuddlan. 
 
 RHYL, 
 
 (FLINTSHIRE.) 
 
 Abergele 5 Holywell 13 
 
 Chester 30 St. Asaph 5 
 
 Rhyl is situated at the termination of the Vale of 
 Clwyd, near the mouth of the river from which that 
 beautiful valley takes its name, and is much frequented 
 as a bathing place during the summer months, for which 
 purpose, both from its immediate contiguity to the sea, 
 and the extent and firmness of its sands, it is peculiarly 
 adapted. Until the last few years, the place was small, 
 and its visitors confined chiefly to persons from the im- 
 mediate neighbourhood ; it has recently, however, ex- 
 perienced great improvement, and the number of its 
 visitors has kept pace with the additional accommodations 
 afforded them. There are now two spacious and com- 
 modious hotels, with four smaller inns, and numerous 
 lodging-houses, intermingled with several neat cottages, 
 used for the summer residence of some of the wealthy 
 neighbours. There are machines for the accommodation 
 of bathers, and hot and cold baths (supplied with sea- 
 water) erected in 1831, to which are attached billiard 
 and news rooms, and a spacious bowling green. 
 
 This place had only one small chapel, used chiefly by 
 preachers in the Welsh tongue ; but a church has lately 
 been erected, capable of containing between four and 
 five hundred persons, and in which service in the English 
 language is read every Sunday It is built of stone, 
 
RHYL RUABON. 263 
 
 with a spire, and the expense was about eight or nine 
 hundred pounds, chiefly raised by voluntary subscrip- 
 tion. Steam Packets ply regularly from Rhyl to 
 Liverpool three times a week, and occasionally from 
 Rhyl to Beaumaris, affording its visitors an opportunity 
 of seeing some of the magnificent scenery of the Welsh 
 coast. Cars may be obtained at any time from the 
 principal inns, and there is an omnibus on the Voryd 
 side, which meets the packets regularly from Abergele. 
 
 The shore presents no very striking scenery, and the 
 great extent of the vale may cause the painter, perhaps, 
 to prefer the deeper glens, and more picturesque valleys 
 of Caernarvonshire or Merionethshire ; still the antique 
 castle of Rhuddlan, clad in its sober hues, and the dark 
 range of Clwydian hills, stretching far into the distance, 
 present a scene of no ordinary beauty. To the south is 
 seen the bold promontory of the greater Ormeshead, 
 beyond which is Puffin island ; and when days are bright 
 and skies are clear, the distant hills of Cumberland may 
 be dimly seen, losing themselves beyond the waters of 
 the Irish sea. 
 
 Provisions of all kinds are cheap ; and milk, vegetables, 
 and poultry, are abundantly supplied by the neighbouring 
 farmers. The lover of angling may find an opportunity 
 of enjoying his favourite amusement, as the Clwyd and 
 Elwy, both celebrated trout streams, are within one 
 hour's walk. 
 
 RUABON, 
 
 (DENBIGHSHIRE.) 
 
 Chirk 41 Llangollen 7 
 
 Denbigh 28" Wrexham 5£ 
 
 Ruabon, or Rhiw-abon, is a village of considerable 
 size, containing about 1300 inhabitants, and situated on 
 the road from Oswestry to Wrexham and Chester. 
 
 The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is a spacious and 
 venerable structure, with an organ, the gift of the late 
 Sir W. W. Wynn. Here are several splendid marble 
 monuments, which are deserving of particular notice. 
 
264 RUABON. — WYNNSTAY. 
 
 One to the memory of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, who 
 was killed by a fall from his horse, on the 26th of 
 September, 1749, aged 41 years. In this sculpture, 
 Rhysbrac has preserved his figure in a graceful attitude, 
 clad in a loose robe, and his hands outspred, as though 
 in the act of addressing an assembly. An elegant latin 
 inscription, the composition of the late Dr. King of St. 
 Mary's Hall, Oxford, enumerates in eloquent detail his 
 mental abilities, social qualities, and public and private 
 virtues. 
 
 There are likewise two monuments by Nollekens, one 
 to the memory of the late Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, 
 Bart, and the other to his wife, Lady Rennetta Williams 
 Wynn. The latter represents that amiable female in the 
 character of Hope, standing and reclining on an urn, 
 with the goddess' usual emblematic accompaniment, an 
 anchor. The countenance, attitude, and drapery are 
 exquisitely fine. The figure is placed on a pedestal in 
 the shape of a Roman altar, on which, in high relievo, 
 is a serpent having the head and tail united, hierogly- 
 phical of eternity ; and within is an inscription indicat- 
 ing that her Ladyship was third daughter of Charles 
 Noel, Duke of Beaufort, and died July 25, 1769, at the 
 early age of twenty-three. The church was thoroughly 
 repaired in 1772, at the expense of the late Sir Watkin, 
 who presented an organ and a small but elegant font of 
 white marble, on the occasion of the baptism of his eldest 
 son, the present Baronet. Dr. David Powel, the Welsh 
 historian, who was instituted to this vicarage in the year 
 1571, was interred here. 
 
 In the neighbourhood are numerous iron works and 
 collieries. The British iron company has very extensive 
 works at Acre-vair, in which several hundred men are 
 constantly employed. There are considerable coal works 
 at Cefn-Mawr, a large and populous village on the north- 
 ern bank of the Dee, near an elegant bridge thrown over 
 the river, called New Bridge. The Eagles Inn, or 
 Wynnstay Arms, is considered a respectable house. The 
 market is held on Monday. In the village and a s ort 
 way from the inn, is the entrance to 
 
 Wynnstay. 
 This extensive park, which is twelve miles in eircum- 
 
WYNNSTAY. 265 
 
 ference, is entered from the village by a plain but hand- 
 some gateway of modern erection, opening into a straight 
 avenue, nearly a mile in length, composed of lofty trees 
 of ancient growth, in which venerable oaks, stately 
 elms, beeches and chesnuts, are intermingled ; and at 
 the extremity of which is the mansion, the hospitable 
 residence of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, Bart, beauti- 
 fully situated on a fine and extensive lawn, having a 
 noble artificial sheet of water in front, reflecting from its 
 surface the foliage of some majestic trees near its margin. 
 This spacious mansion, which has been erected at different 
 periods, is a stately pile of building, possessing, from its 
 extent and substantial elevation, a striking character of 
 simple and unostentatious grandeur. The older portion 
 of the building contains the domestic offices and general 
 departments for the accommodation of the household. 
 The modern part of the building, erected by the first Sir 
 Watkin, and enlarged and modernized by the present 
 Baronet, is a handsome substantial structure : the interior 
 comprises several noble apartments, embellished with 
 some excellent family portraits, by Sir Joshua Reynolds 
 and some of the best masters, two full-length paintings 
 of Charles II. and his Queen, and several other pictures 
 of merit. 
 
 The park is enriched with fine timber, and comprehends 
 much variety and beauty of scenery : there are handsome 
 lodges, or entrances into it from various parts of the 
 surrounding district ; and a new drive, leading to the 
 house from the lodge recently built on the London road, 
 has added greatly not only to the convenience of access, 
 but to the embellishment of the grounds on the south 
 side. 
 
 At a short distance from the hall is the cold bath, near 
 which stands a handsome fluted column, erected after a 
 design by the late Mr. James Wyatt, to the memory of 
 the late Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, Baronet, by his 
 mother : the shaft of the column, which is one hundred 
 feet high, ornamented on the faces with festooned wreaths 
 of oak leaves, and at the angles with eagles, finely 
 moulded in bronze ; the capital is surmounted by an 
 entablature supporting a circular platform, surrounded 
 with an iron balustrade, to which there is an ascent from 
 
266 WYNNSTAY. 
 
 within the column by a flight of spiral steps, and having 
 in the centre a circular pedestal, twelve feet high, on 
 which is placed a massive vase of bronze, enriched with 
 goats' heads. Over the door leading to the ascent, there 
 is a tablet bearing the following inscription: — " To the 
 memory of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, Bart, who died 
 on the 29th of July, MDCCLXXXIX. this column was 
 erected by his affectionate mother, Frances Williams 
 Wynn ;" and on the north side, in letters of copper, is 
 the inscription, " Filium optims, Mater Eheu Supertes.'' 
 Near this column is a fine sheet of water, bounded by 
 Watt's Dyke, which here intersects the park, and from 
 which the mansion originally derived the name of Watt- 
 stay, changed by Sir John Wynn to its present appellation. 
 The dyke, which entered the park near its northern 
 boundary, has been levelled in its course through the 
 grounds, but is traced again on its south side, near Pen- 
 y-lan, and crosses the Dee at its junction with the Ceiriog. 
 By the late improvements, part of Offa's Dyke is now 
 within the limits of the park, which it enters at the 
 second lodge from Ruabon, and leaves again near the 
 Waterloo Tower. 
 
 [For a further account of these Dykes, see Basingwerk 
 Abbey, under the head of Holywell.] 
 Near the southern extremity of the woods there is a 
 cenotaph, erected by the present Sir Watkin, from a de- 
 sign by Sir Jeffrey Wyatville, to the memory of his 
 brother officers and soldiers who were slain during the 
 rebellion in Ireland in 1798 : it stands on an eminence 
 overlooking a deep ravine, called Nant y J3ele, The 
 Dingle of the Marten, through which the river Dee urges 
 its rapid course along a narrow channel, richly fringed 
 with impending woods. From this building there is an 
 extensive and magnificent prospect, embracing a vast 
 extent of the counties of Caernarvon, Denbigh, Flint, 
 Chester, and Salop, Chirk castle and its noble park, and 
 the whole of the beautiful vale of Llangollen, including 
 the stupendous aqueduct of Pont-y-Cysylltau, and the 
 majestic and elevated ruins of Castell Dinas Bran, with 
 the fine range of mountains in the distance. 
 
 Angling Station The Dee. 
 
267 
 
 RUTHIN, 
 
 (DENBIGHSHIRE.) 
 
 Bala 22 Llangollen 15 
 
 Chester 22 Mold 10 
 
 Corwen 12 St. Asaph 14 
 
 Denbigh 8 Wrexham 18 
 
 London 210 
 
 Ruthin (Bhudd-ddin, or Rhuthyn) is beautifully situ- 
 ated on the summit and aclivity of an eminence in the 
 picturesque Vale of Clwyd, at the base of which, and 
 through the lower part of the town, flows the river from 
 which the vale takes its name, at this place an incon- 
 siderable stream, serving only to work some mills in the 
 neighbourhood. The town and parish contain 3376 in- 
 habitants. The appearance of the town, which is well 
 built, is pleasing ; and the neighbourhood is embellished 
 with numerous gentlemens' seats, and comprehends some 
 pleasingly varied scenery. No particular trade or manu- 
 facti sre is carried on here, except what is necessary for 
 the accommodation of the inhabitants, who are principally 
 engaged in agriculture; The market, which is abundantly 
 supplied with corn, is on Monday, and a second market 
 is also held on Saturday for provisions. The principal 
 inns are, the White Lion and Cross Foxes. 
 
 The government of the borough is vested by charter 
 in two aldermen, sixteen common-councilmen, and an 
 indefinite number of burgesses : the aldermen are appointed 
 annually at the court leet held for the lordship, at Michael- 
 mas ; and they, immediately, on assuming office, appoint the 
 common-councilmen. This place is one of the con- 
 tributary boroughs, which, with Denbigh, Holt, and 
 Wrexham, returns one member to parliament. Ruthin 
 has been made u polling place in the election of knights 
 of the shire ; and from its central situation, it has been 
 selected, in preference to the town of Denbigh, for 
 holding the assizes for the county ; and the quarter 
 sessions are held alternately here and at Denbigh. The 
 town-hall, situate in the market place, is a substantial 
 building, but is in no respect remarkable for its style of 
 
268 
 
 architecture. It was built in 1663, and is used for hold- 
 ing the courts leet and baron. Prior to the erection of 
 the county-hall, the Great Quarter Sessions were held 
 there. This building has very recently been completely 
 repaired by the lady of the manor. 
 
 The county hall, in Ruthin, is a beautiful modern 
 structure, fronted with white stone, and, with the county 
 gaol and house of correction, also situated here, is highly 
 
 creditable to the talents of the architect, Mr. Turner 
 
 The gaol has recently been very considerably enlarged 
 by the addition of a building for the female prisoners, and 
 comprises six distinct wards for male, and four wards for 
 female prisoners, for whose classification it is thus ex- 
 tremely well adapted. 
 
 The church is an ancient structure, in various styles 
 of architecture, and appears to have been built at different 
 periods, or to have undergone material alterations : the 
 tower, and the south and we it fronts, which are of the 
 most modern date, are greatly inferior to the rest of the 
 building. The interior is of better character, and the 
 roof, which is of carved oak, pannelled, richly sculptured, 
 and apparently of the time of Henry VII. is supposed to 
 have been constructed by that monarch. The church was 
 changed into a collegiate chapter, a.d. 1310, by John de 
 Grey, who formed an establishment of several regular 
 canons, and endowed it with valuable lands, and nume- 
 rous privileges. The apartments of the canons were 
 connected with the church by a cloister, of which a 
 remaining portion has been converted into a residence for 
 the warden. 
 
 The town contains a free grammar school, well en- 
 dowed, and a national school, supported by voluntary 
 contributions ; and places of worship for various dissent- 
 ing congregations. The present warden is The Venerable 
 Archdeacon New r come, author of Memoirs of Dr. Good- 
 man, Dean of Westminster, and Dr. Godfrey Goodman, 
 Bishop of Gloucester, and author also of the histories of 
 the castles and towns of Denbigh and Ruthin. 
 
 The ancient castle occupied the declivity of a hill 
 fronting the Vale of Clwyd towards the west, and, from 
 the extensive foundations and remaining portions of the 
 walls, appears to have been a structure of great strength 
 
RUTHIN VALE OF CLWYD. 269 
 
 and magnificence : the remains consist chiefly of fragments 
 of the towers and ruined walls. This fortress was built 
 by Edward I. who in 1281 gave it, with the hundred of 
 Dyffryn Clwyd, to Reginald de Grey ; from the family of 
 Greys it devolved to Richard Earl of Kent, who sold it 
 to Henry VII. It was afterwards granted to Dudley Earl 
 of Warwick, by Queen Elizabeth. After the restoration, 
 the castle and its dependencies was purchased by Sir 
 Richard Myddelton. 
 
 The elegant castellated mansion lately erected by the 
 Hon. F. West, within the ruins of the old castle, is a 
 highly interesting structure, and forms a beautiful feature 
 in the prospect of the town. The architect having united 
 the ancient with the modern parts whenever practicable ; 
 the whole displays the greatest taste on the part of the 
 projector. From various parts of the site are some rich 
 and extensive prospects, embracing many interesting 
 objects. Strangers are admitted to view this attractive 
 place, and are required to enter their names in a book 
 kept for that purpose at the lodge. 
 
 Near the town hall is a rude block of lime-stone, 
 called Maen Huail, on which it is said, the celebrated 
 Prince Arthur beheaded his rival Huail, brother to Gildas 
 the historian. Ruthin mill, a curious ancient edifice, 
 having on the apex of the eastern gable a red stone cross, 
 is supposed to have been originally the chapel of the cell 
 of White Friars, mentioned by Leland, as formerly ex- 
 isting here, but of which no records are preserved. 
 
 Dr. Goodman, Dean of Westminster, one of the trans- 
 lators of Archbishop Parker's bible, and principal promoter 
 of Bishop Morgan's Welsh translation; Edward Thelwall, 
 tntor to Lord Herbert, of Chirbury ; Dr. Parry, Bishop 
 of St. Asaph ; Dr. Goodman, Bishop of Gloucester ; Sir 
 Eubule Thelwall, Knt. principal and second founder of 
 Jesus College, Oxford ; and Sir Thomas Exmewe, Lord 
 Mayor of London in 1517, were all natives of this place. 
 
 The barony of Grey de Ruthin is at present enjoyed 
 by Barbara, daughter of Henry Edward Gould, Esq. 
 who, as nineteenth Baron, assumed the name and arms 
 of Yelverton, and whose decease occurred in 1810. 
 
 Vale of Clwyd. 
 This Veautiful valley, called by the Welsh Dyffryn 
 
270 VALE OF CLWYD. 
 
 Clwyd, the Vale of the Flat, commences three or four 
 miles south of Ruthin ; inclosed by mountains, whose 
 brown and barren summits form a fine contrast to the 
 verdant meads and luxuriant fields beneath, which as far 
 as the eye can ken, gratify the enraptured sight, and fill 
 the mind with the pleasing idea of fertility, industry, and 
 plenty. Towns, villages, and seats, thickly studded 
 over the surface, tend still more to enliven the cheering 
 scene, and every object seems to afford an additional 
 smile in the complexion of this enchanting vale, which 
 is thus celebrated by the old poet, Churchyard : — 
 
 Now to the vale of worthy Duffryn Cloyd, 
 My muse must passe, a soyle most ritch and gay : 
 
 This noble seate, that never none annoy'd, 
 That sawe the same, and rode or went that way : 
 The vewe thereof, so much contents the mynde, 
 The ayre therein, so wholesome, and so kynd, 
 The beautie such, the breadth and length likewise, 
 Makes glad the hart, and pleaseth each man's eyes. 
 
 This vale is perhaps the most extensive of any in the 
 kingdom, being about twenty-four miles in length, that 
 is from above Ruthin to Rhuddlan, and varying from five 
 to seven miles in breadth ; it contains the three con- 
 siderable towns of Denbigh, Paithin, and St. Asaph. 
 The river Clwyd, from which the vale takes its name, is 
 a diminutive stream that meanders along its bottom, 
 scarcely three yards over in its widest part. Its banks 
 are low, and after sudden rains, it is subject to the most 
 dreadful overflowings ; the torrent at these times frequently 
 sweeping along with it the very soil of the land it passes 
 over. From this circumstance it is, that the land near 
 its banks is let at rents greatly below what its fertility 
 would otherwise warrant. There are several of the 
 adjacent heights from whence the vale may be seen with 
 peculiar advantage ; such are the Bwlch Pen-Barras, on 
 the old road to Mold, about four miles from Ruthin, and 
 that part of the new road by which the traveller descends 
 into the vale, commencing about three miles from the 
 latter town ; but the best station for an extended view, 
 is the eastern ridge of the mountain,. bet ween Dymeirchion 
 
VALE OF CLWYD. 271 
 
 and Bodfari, and about three hundred yards of Bryn 
 Bella, the elegant seat of Sir John Salusbury, but a 
 little higher on the aclivity of the hill. Here is a spot 
 called the Graig, from whence the slope is somewhat 
 precipitous, and its situation is nearly midway between 
 the extremities of the vale. Let the lover of rural 
 scenery then place himself on this spot, and if possible, 
 select the season of a cloudless and declining summer's 
 sun, for a complete view of this exquisite panorama of 
 nature. The lapse of several years, so far from having 
 obliterated, has hardly weakened those glowing sensations 
 of rapture the compiler of these pages once enjoyed on 
 this very spot, and under the favourable circumstances 
 just alluded tor; and now he is ready to exclaim — 
 
 Ah ! that such beauty, varying in the light 
 Of living nature, cannot be pourtray'd 
 By words, nor by the pencil's silent skill, 
 But is the property of him alone 
 Who hath beheld it, noted it with care, 
 And in his mind recorded it with love. 
 
 The slope of the Graig is sufficiently precipitous to 
 allow the beholder to place himself in a recumbent position, 
 without losing a single object of the extensive survey. 
 Beneath, and on each side, as far as the visual faculty 
 will serve, the vale opens to the view an entire level, 
 dressed in all the charms of luxuriant fertility, and 
 alternately presenting fine fields of waving corn, with 
 which the vale abounds, and verdant meadows. Fine 
 enclosures, rich in cultivation, creep up the boundary 
 hills, the sides of which, in the season, glowing with 
 the purple flowers of the heath. On the lower parts of 
 these slopes, the scene is enlivened by villages, churches, 
 and well- wooded mansions, the whole exhibiting the 
 most perfect idea that can be formed of rural beauty. 
 
 A little to the south, on the opposite side of the vale, 
 the town of Denbigh is seen to great advantage, with 
 the ruins of its once magnificent castle crowning its 
 summit. The latter has an imposing aspect, and when 
 contrasted with the softer sceenry the vale presents, 
 creates a feeling of delight, which variety seldom fails to 
 
272 VALE OF CLWYD ST. ASAPH. 
 
 inspire. Tracing with the eye the summit of the western 
 boundary, Penmaen Mawr and the Snowdonian hills lift 
 their hoary heads ; and turning the eye to the extremity 
 of the vale northward, the scenery is still improved. At 
 the distance of about five miles, is seen the fine old tower 
 of the cathedral of St. Asaph ; three miles beyond this, 
 in the same direction, the broken ruins of Rhuddlan 
 castle ; and in the distance, the ocean, with a distinct 
 perception of the great Ormeshead ; all the intermediate 
 space in this expansive landscape decorated with the 
 beauties of nature, and the adornment of high cultivation. 
 When the curious tourist has gratified himself with these 
 delightful prospects, he may pursue a good road, or 
 rather a beautiful terrace down the vale towards St. 
 Asaph, or up it towards Ruthin : — 
 
 -In this track, 
 
 How long soe'er the wand'rer roves, each step 
 Shall wake fresh beauties, each short point presents 
 A different picture ; new, and yet the same. 
 
 Angling Station The Clwyd. 
 
 ST. ASAPH, 
 
 (FLINTSHIRE.) 
 
 Abergele 7 Holywell 10 
 
 Conway 18 London 217 
 
 Chester 28 Rhuddlan 3 
 
 Denbigh 6 
 
 St. Asaph, commonly called Llan Elwy, derived its 
 origin and name from the erection of a church on the bank 
 of the river Elwy, about the middle of the sixth century. 
 The city is beautifully situated on the gentle aclivity of 
 an eminence, washed on the eastern side by the river 
 Clwyd, and on the west by the Elwy, which unite at 
 the distance of about a mile to the north. With the 
 parish it contains 3144 inhabitants. Over the Elwy at 
 the extremity of the principal street, is a handsome stone 
 bridge of five arches ; and over the Clwyd is a fine bridge 
 
ST. ASAPH. 273 
 
 of more modern erection, within a quarter of a mile to 
 the east of the cathedral church. The houses in the 
 principal street are of brick, and in general small, though 
 neatly built. The market is held on the Friday. The 
 White Lion is the principal inn, where post chaises may 
 be obtained. By the late act for amending the represen- 
 tation, St. Asaph has been added to the other boroughs 
 of this county, now eight in number, which unitedly re- 
 turn one member to parliament. 
 
 Under the provisions of an act of parliament for making 
 a new line of road, several handsome houses and pleasing 
 cottages have been built, which have greatly improved 
 the appearance of the place. In the construction of the 
 new road towards Chester, a very neat street leading to 
 the bridge over the Clwyd, has been built ; the road has 
 been raised, at a considerable expense, several feet, in 
 order to avoid a steep hill ; and some beautiful plantations 
 have been formed on both sides of it, which contribute 
 to render the approach to St. Asaph not only commodious, 
 but picturesque. The view of the city is peculiarly 
 striking ; its elevated situation on an eminence near the 
 termination of the rich and fertile Vale of Clwyd, crowned 
 on its summit with the cathedral, and having the parish 
 church at its base, makes it a conspicuous object from 
 every point of view ; and the luxuriant groves of trees 
 in which it is deeply embosomed, give to it a pleasingly 
 romantic appearance. The surrounding scenery, which 
 in every direction abounds with objects of interest and 
 beauty, is seen to great advantage from the eminence on 
 which the city is built, and from the high grounds in the 
 immediate vicinity. 
 
 The cathedral consists principally of the structure 
 raised by Bishop Anian, the second of that name, about 
 the year 1284, and after its demolition by Owen Glyn- 
 dwr, was restored and partly rebuilt by Bishop Redman, 
 towards the close of the fifteenth century, with the ex- 
 ception of the choir, which was rebuilt about the 
 year 1770, by the Dean and Chapter, with funds which 
 had been vested in their hands as trustees for that purpose. 
 It is a plain cruciform structure, principally in the deco- 
 rated style of English architecture, with a low square 
 embattled tower, rising from the intersection of the nave 
 
274 ST. ASAPH. 
 
 and transepts, and having at the north-east angle a stair- 
 case turret : the exterior is of simple but good design ; 
 the buttresses are few and of very bold character, and 
 the arch of the west door is plainly moulded : the east 
 end is ornamented with a window, which is said to be a 
 fac-simile of the east window in Tintern abbey, in Mon- 
 mouthshire, and in 1810 was filled with stained glass, at 
 the expense of the Dean and Chapter, aided by the con- 
 tributions of the gentry in the neighbourhood. Dr. 
 William Beveridge, a learned and amiable prelate, was 
 consecrated to this see in 1704. 
 
 The interior of the cathedral contains some good 
 monuments ; an altar tomb, with a recumbent figure in 
 episcopal robes, is said to commemorate the munificent 
 Prelate Davydd ab Owen, who was interred here in 1512; 
 and near the west door is a painted tomb, with an in- 
 scription to the memory of Bishop Isaac Barrow, who 
 died in 1680. There is a monument of white marble, 
 to the memory of Dean Shipley, by Ternouth, erected 
 by subscription about the year 1829, at an expense of 
 £600, consisting of a full-length figure of the Dean in 
 his canonicals, in a sitting posture ; and also a neat altar 
 tomb monument to the memory of Bishop Luxmore, who 
 died in January, 1830, from a design by T. Jones, Esq. 
 
 of Chester The choir has lately been neatly fitted up, 
 
 and much enlarged. During the last year (1834) con- 
 siderable improvements have taken place in the interior ; 
 a part of the broad aisle has been added to the choir, 
 which is thereby rendered more commodious, and a new 
 organ has likewise been added. 
 
 The episcopal palace, situated at a short distance to 
 the west of the cathedral, has lately been rebuilt upon a 
 more extensive scale, and in an appropriate style, at the 
 expense of the present Bishop. The deanery, about a 
 quarter of a mile from the cathedral, and on the west 
 bank of the river Elwy, has also recently been rebuilt by 
 the present Dean. — The parochial church, dedicated to 
 St. Asaph and St. Kentegern, is situated at the base of 
 the eminence, of which the cathedral occupies the sum- 
 mit ; it is a small edifice without a tower, and is supposed 
 to have been erected about the year 1524. There are 
 places for worship for the Independents, and Calvinistic 
 and Wesleyan Methodists, 
 
ST. ASAPH. 275 
 
 From the brow of a hill about two miles from the 
 town, on the road to Holywell, is an extensive and pleas- 
 ing view of a portion of the Vale of Clwyd, beautifully 
 diversified with corn fields and meadows, groves and 
 woods, intersected by the windings of the river, and en- 
 livened with numerous picturesque cottages, skirted on 
 all sides with rugged and precipitous mountains, except 
 on the right hand, where a fine view of the sea is ob- 
 tained, bounded in the distance by dark receding moun- 
 tains. The road from St. Asaph to Denbigh is in many 
 parts beautifully picturesque ; the small Vale of Elwy, 
 at the extremity of which is a fine bridge of one arch, 
 eighty feet in the span over that river, called Pont-yr- 
 allt-Goch, is richly wooded, and abounds with finely va- 
 ried scenery : the Elwy, which sometimes rushes through 
 the vale with the impetuosity of a torrent, is beautifully 
 shaded by the luxuriant foliage on its banks. 
 
 There are numerous elegant mansions within the parish ; 
 among the most conspicuous are, Kinmel, the seat of 
 Lord Dinorben ; Bodelwyddan, the seat of Sir John 
 Williams, Bart, rebuilt by its late proprietor in the Eng- 
 lish castellated style ; Pengwern, that of Lord Mostyn, 
 built about the beginning of the last century ; Cefn, that 
 of Edward Lloyd, Esq. ; and Bronwylva, the residence 
 of Colonel Sir Henry Browne, erected in the year 1660, 
 and enlarged in 1816. — In this last mansion are some 
 valuable trophies taken during the late war, amongst 
 which are, Napoleon Buonaparte's travelling map and 
 books of roads of the French empire, in splendid mo- 
 rocco cases, emblazoned with the imperial arms, taken 
 from his library at Fontainbleau, by Sir Henry, in 1815, 
 and a French field-marshal's baton, two feet three inches 
 in length, covered with purple velvet ornamented with 
 golden bees, and surmounted with an imperial crown, 
 taken in Silesia, in 1812, by a division of Blucher's 
 corps. 
 
 In the township of Cefn Meriadog are some magnificent 
 natural caverns, extending for a considerable distance in- 
 to the limestone rocks ; in some parts of these the roof 
 is more than forty feet in height, and near the river Elwy 
 the base of the rock is perforated by a lofty natural arch, 
 twenty- one yards in length, and 36 feet high, through 
 
276 SHREWSBURY. 
 
 which is a road capable of admitting a waggon loaded 
 with hay. Various fossil remains have been found in 
 these caverns. 
 
 Angling Station — Bodfarry, 4 miles from St. Asaph. 
 
 SHREWSBURY, 
 
 (SHROPSHIRE.) 
 
 Ellesmere 16 Oswestry 18 
 
 London 154 Welshpool 18 
 
 [The same reason that induced us to admit Chester 
 into our alphabetical arrangement, suggests the propriety 
 of noticing Shrewsbury, not only because both places are 
 contiguous to the Principality, but also as one or the 
 other is the usual point at which the English tourist com- 
 mences or terminates his North Wales excursion See 
 
 Chester.] 
 
 Shrewsbury, the county town of Shropshire, is thought 
 to have derived its name from the Saxon word Scrobbes- 
 berig, which signifies a town built upon a wooded hill. 
 It was once the capital of Powys-land, and the seat of 
 several of the Princes. It is supposed to have originated 
 on the ruin of the Roman Uriconium, the Wrekin Ceas- 
 ter of the Saxons, and the modern Wroxeter, a village 
 upon the Severn, about six miles distant. 
 
 The town is pleasantly situated on two eminences, ris- 
 ing gently from the river Severn, which by its windings 
 forms a peninsula ; it consists of several streets, irregu- 
 larly formed, and, with some exceptions, very narrow. 
 Various improvements have been made under the pro- 
 visions of an act obtained in 1821, and others are in pro- 
 gress, for removing numerous obstructions arising from 
 the style of building, and widening the approaches to the 
 town. The houses are in general of ancient character, 
 though greatly intermixed with others of handsome ap- 
 pearance and modern erection ; and under the influence 
 of a situation admirably adapted to commercial purposes, 
 and affording in its environs delightful spots for private 
 residences, a very rapid degree of improvement is pro- 
 
SHREWSBURY. 277 
 
 gressively taking place. It is well paved, lighted with 
 gas, and supplied with excellent water from a remarkably 
 fine spring called Bradwell, about two miles distant, 
 from which, since 1574, it has been conveyed by pipes 
 into numerous conduits in several parts of the town, and 
 with water from the river Severn, by a company estab- 
 lished in 1827. Over this river are two bridges of stone, 
 one called the English bridge, a handsome structure of 
 Grinshill freestone, of seven circular arches, crowned 
 with a balustrade, erected in 1774, at an expense of 
 £16,000, defrayed by public subscription, and connect- 
 ing the suburb of Abbey. Foregate with the town; and 
 the other, called the Welsh bridge, a neat plain structure 
 of five spacious arches, erected in 1795, at a cost ex- 
 ceeding £8,000, affording a passage over the river into 
 Wales. 
 
 Near the Abbey Foregate is the military depot, a 
 handsome brick building ; and within the inclosure are 
 two magazines for amunition, and at each angle a neat 
 house for the store-keeper and armourer : the building is 
 capable of containing twenty-five thousand stand of 
 arms. In 1831, the population was 21,227. 
 
 At the entrance into the town from the London road, 
 is a lofty column of the Grecian Doric style, rising from 
 abase, ornamented at the angles with lions couchant, to 
 the height of one hundred and thirty -two feet, and sup- 
 porting on its summit a well executed statue of Lieut. - 
 General Rowland Lord Hill, in honour of whose achiev- 
 ments in the late continental war it was erected, by 
 general subscription, in 1814. On tlie south-western 
 side of the town, is a beautiful walk called the Quarry, 
 comprising about twenty acres, and extending along the 
 winding margin of the Severn for five hundred yards in 
 length, forming a noble avenue of full-grown lime trees, 
 from which diverge three other walks leading to the 
 town. 
 
 In the vicinity also are numerous pleasant walks and 
 rides, through a country abounding in beautiful and pic- 
 turesque scenery. The richly cultivated plain of Shrews- 
 bury, extending thirty miles from north to south, and 
 twenty-eight from east to west, is divided into two nearly 
 equal parts by the river Severn, and surrounded by a 
 
2/8 SHREWSBURY. 
 
 noble range of lofty mountains and beautiful hills . 
 
 Among the former are the famed Wrekin, the Lawley, 
 the Caradoc, the Longmynd, the Stiperstones, and the 
 Breyddin chain, on which is an obelisk in honour of 
 Admiral Lord Rodney ; and among the latter the beauti- 
 ful wood-crowned eminences Grinshill, Plyhill, Hawke- 
 stone, Haughmond, and others, forming a finely varied 
 range of hills of different elevation and character. 
 
 The remains of the castle are situated on an eminence 
 above the river, just in that part of the town whence the 
 river leaves it undefended. Its foundation has been 
 ascribed to Roger de Montgomery, the great Earl of 
 Shrewsbury, who lived in the reign of William the Con- 
 queror, but of the ancient structure there is now 
 little remaining. .A small portion of the ancient walls 
 are yet standing, but they have long been useless as 
 means of defence. At a little distance beyond the castle 
 is the county gaol, a large and handsome structure, built 
 of brick, and in a situation highly conducive to health. 
 In a niche over the entrance, there is a bust of the great 
 philanthropist Howard. The building is capable of con- 
 taining 500 prisoners. 
 
 The abbey, as before mentioned, is situated in the 
 suburbs of the town, a little beyond the stone bridge. 
 The present remains consist only of the west part from 
 the cross aisle to the west tower. In the garden of Sir 
 Charles Oakley, on the south side of the church, is a 
 small, but elegant octagonal building, the remains of an 
 ancient oratory belonging to the abbey, now called St. 
 Winefred's Pulpit. 
 
 Shrewsbury contains five parish churches, namely, St. 
 Giles's, St. Alkmond's, St. Mary's, St. Julian's, and St. 
 Chad's They are most of them worthy of a visit from 
 the various reliques of antiquity contained in them. The 
 house of industry is a fine brick building, originally 
 erected in the year 1760, for the purpose of receiving 
 part of the foundlings from the great hospital in London ; 
 but the scheme failing, it was subsequently purchased for 
 its present purpose, and occupied as a receptacle for the 
 poor in 1783. The town is remarkable for the number 
 and excellency of its public institutions, most of which 
 are admirably supported by voluntary contributions — 
 
SHREWSBURY. 279 
 
 There are several good inns, of which the principal are 
 the Talbot, the Lion, the Raven, and the Fox. 
 
 Of the military transactions relative to this place, the 
 most important was the battle fought here in July 1403, 
 best known by the name of The Battle of Shrewsbury, 
 between King Henry IV. and the soldiers commanded by 
 Henry Percy, surnamed Hotspur. It had been the de- 
 sign of the insurgents from the north to make themselves, 
 masters of this town and castle, and then to strengthen 
 their forces by a junction with Owen Glyndwr and his 
 countrymen. The activity of Henry prevented this 
 junction, and saved his crown. Coming up with Percy's 
 army at this town, the high spirit of that hero would not 
 suffer him to wait the arrival of Glyndwr, who was en- 
 camped near Oswestry, but he hazarded a contest even 
 with his inferior forces. The fight commenced early in 
 the morning, and after a violent struggle for three hours 
 Percy's party was completely routed, and himself and 
 about five thousand of his men were slain. The Earls 
 of Worcester and Douglas were taken prisoners, the for- 
 mer of whom was soon afterwards beheaded at Shrews- 
 bury. The scene of conflict was a place since called 
 Battlefield, in the parish of Albrighton, about three 
 miles distant. 
 
 In the year 1485, Henry Earl of Richmond, after- 
 wards King Henry VII., arrived at Milford Haven from 
 Bretagne, and he had so far paved the way for his recep- 
 tion in this country as to meet with little opposition till 
 he came to Shrewsbury. Here, however, the gates 
 were shut against him. He sent messengers to demand 
 that the gates should be opened to admit the rightful sove- 
 reign of England. The head bailiff, whose name was 
 Mytton, appeared at the gate and answered — " I acknow- 
 ledge no sovereign but King Richard the Third, whose 
 servants I and my townsmen are. / solemnly swear, 
 that before any other enter this town he shall first make 
 his way over my bodyf By this expression he meant 
 that he would suffer himself to be slain, rather than ad- 
 mit any but his acknowledged monarch The messen- 
 gers returned to Henry, and they were again sent on the 
 following morning to request that the Earl of Richmond 
 might be suffered to pass. They pledged themselves for 
 
280 SNOWDON. 
 
 the Earl that no injury whatever should be done to the 
 town or its inhabitants, and that Mytton himself should 
 alsobe saved from the guilt of perjury. The bailiff, hav- 
 ing in some measure changed his mind since his last in- 
 teryiew with the messengers, did not object to these 
 lenient terms. Henry entered the town by stepping over 
 the body of Mytton, who laid down for the purpose in 
 the gateway. From hence he passed over to Bosworth 
 field, where the decisive battle was fought in which 
 Richard III. was slain. 
 
 SNOWDON, 
 
 (CAERNARVONSHIRE.) 
 
 A chain of the highest mountains in Wales, extends 
 across Caernarvonshire from Bardsey island to Penmaen 
 Bach, near Conway bay, gradually rising from each ex- 
 tremity towards the centre, which is occupied by Suow- 
 don. The name of this mountain was first given to it 
 by the Saxons, and signifies a hill covered with snow ; 
 but the Welsh call all this adjacent range Creigiau-yr- 
 Eyri, the eagles' cliffs ; for it is not true, as has been 
 asserted, that snow may be found upon it through the 
 whole year ; there is seldom any between the months of 
 June and November, for the point of permanent snow is 
 at somewhat above 4350 feet, which is considerably 
 higher than Snowdon. The temperature at the top is 
 generally very low, even in the midst of summer. In 
 July, just after sunrise, the thermometer has been ob- 
 served at 34° and in August at 48° early in the afternoon. 
 
 Snowdon was held sacred by the ancient Britons, and 
 they believed, that whosoever slept upon it would 
 awake inspired. It was formerly also a royal forest, and 
 abounded with deer, but the last of these were destroyed 
 early in the seventeenth century. The eagle is said still 
 occasionally to visit the highest crags, and on the north 
 and north-east side the botanist finds many uncommon 
 alpine plants. Bingley reckons twenty-seven. Some 
 geologists tell us that Snowdon is basaltic ; that the 
 precipitous western side consists of hornstone, on which 
 are placed a number of basaltic columns, pentagonal. 
 
SNOWDON. 281 
 
 and standing perpendicular to the plane of the horizon. 
 Another curious fact is, that near the top there is a spring 
 of very cold water, seldom increased or diminished in 
 quantity, either in summer or winter. 
 
 The perpendicular height of Snowdon is by late admea- 
 surements 1190 yards (somewhat less than three quarters 
 of a mile from the level of the sea.) This makes it, 
 according to Mr. Pennant, 240 yards higher than Cader 
 Idris. Some state Whernside, in Yorkshire, to be the 
 highest mountain in South Britain, and more than 4000 
 feet. Helvelyn is 3324 feet, Benlomond 3262. But 
 mole -hills are all these compared with Mont Blanc, 
 rising 15,680 feet, the highest mountain in Europe ; or 
 with the American Chimboraco, 20,909 feet, the highest 
 ground ever trodden by mam ; or with the mountains 
 of Thibet, above 25,000 feet, and the highest at present 
 known. 
 
 The air is sharp on the top of Snowdon, and like that 
 in all other mountain districts, is very salubrious and 
 congenial to health and longevity, which accords well 
 with the aphorisms of Churchyard in 1587 : — 
 
 The mountayne men live longer many a yeare 
 Than those in vale, in playne, or marish soyle ; 
 
 A lustie hart, a clean complexion clere, 
 They have, on hill that for hard living toyle. 
 
 With ewe and lamb, with goats and kids they play, 
 In greatest toyles, to rub out wearie day ; 
 And when to house and home good fellowes draw, 
 The lads can laugh at turning of a strawe. 
 
 It is seldom that persons who have taste and leisure, 
 visit this part of Caernarvonshire, without ascending to 
 the top of our British alps ; and those who make a tour 
 from motives of curiosity, would think the omission 
 inexcusable. That the ascent is somewhat laborious and 
 difficult, especially to those who are deficient in physical 
 strength, may be allowed ; but, says Mr. Bingley, 
 1 ' Welsh tourists have been much in the habit of overrat- 
 ing the difficulties that are to be encountered in the 
 journey to the summit of this mountain. To provide 
 against these, one of them recommends a strong stick 
 
282 SNOWDON. 
 
 with a spike at the end, as a thing absolutely necessary ; 
 another advises that the soles of the shoes be set round 
 with large nails ; and a third inveighs against attempting 
 so hazardous and so difficult an undertaking in boots. 
 I can only say, that to have nails in the shoes, and to 
 take a stick in one's hand, may both be useful in their 
 way ; but if a person is in good health and spirits, he 
 will find that he can do very well without either. I 
 should recommend to the traveller to allow himself suffi- 
 cient time, to be upon the journey by five or six o'clock 
 in the morning, when the sun has not yet attained much 
 power, and when the air is cool and refreshing. The chief 
 thing required is a little labour, and this, by going gently 
 along, will be rendered very easy. There is also another 
 advantage in having plenty of time; by stopping fre- 
 quently to rest himself, he will be enabled to enjoy the 
 different distant prospects as they rise above the mountains, 
 and to observe how the objects around him gradually 
 change their appearance as he rises higher and higher." 
 
 The next consideration for the tourist is, the route 
 that is to be taken to the summit of the mountain. Of 
 these there are four, namely, from Dolbadarn castle, 
 Llanberis, Llyn Cwellyn, and Bedd-gelert ; and at each 
 of these places a guide may be procured. The Rev. Mr. 
 Newell, in his letters on the scenery of Wales opines 
 that the last mentioned is the easiest and safest, much of 
 it being practicable for horses.* That the tourist may be 
 directed in his choice, and at the same time be apprised 
 of the objects that are likely to come under his observa- 
 tion in the ascent, we shall here subjoin the description 
 of several individuals who have climbed the mountain's 
 brow. And first that of Mr. Pennant, who is entitled to 
 be denominated the prince of Welsh tourists. 
 
 Mr. Pennant's Ascent. 
 "Ascend, above Cwm Brwynog, a very deep bottom.! 
 In the course of our ascent, saw on the left, above the 
 
 * The ascent forom Bedd-gelert is unquestionably the 
 most difficult, and that from the Victoria Inn, the easiest. 
 
 t The road is practicable for small carts for about four 
 miles up Gwaun Cwm Brwynog from Dolbadarn Castle. 
 
SNOW DON. 283 
 
 Cwm, Moely Cynghorion, or the Hill of Council. Pass 
 through Bwlch Maes-y-cwm, and skirt the side of Snow- 
 don, till we reach Bwlch Cwm Brwynog, where the ascent 
 becomes very difficult on account of its vast steepness. 
 People here usually quit their horses. We began a toil- 
 some march, clambering among the rocks. On the left 
 were the precipices over Brwynog, with Llyn Du yr 
 Arddwy at their foot. On our right were those over the 
 small lakes Llyn Glds, Llyny Nadroedd, and Llyn Coch. 
 The last is the highest on this side the mountain ; and on 
 whose margins, we were told, that, in fairy days, those 
 diminutive gentry kept their revels. 
 
 "This space, between precipice and precipice, formed a 
 short and no very agreeable isthmus, till we reached a 
 verdant expanse, which gave us some respite, before we 
 laboured up another series of broken crags ; after these 
 is a second smooth tract, which reaches almost to the 
 summit, and by way of pre-eminence is styled Y Wyddfa, 
 or, The Conspicuous. It rises almost to a point, or at 
 least there is but room for a circular wall of loose stones, 
 within which travellers usually take their repast. 
 
 "The view from this exalted situation is unbounded. In 
 a former tour, I saw from it the hills of Yorkshire, part 
 of the north of England, Scotland, and Ireland ; a plain 
 view of the Isle of Man ; and that of Anglesey lay ex- 
 tended like a map beneath me, with every rill visible. 
 I took much pains to see this prospect to advantage ; sat 
 up at a farm on the west till about twelve, and walked 
 up the whole way. The night was remarkably fine and 
 starry : towards morn, the stars faded away, and left a 
 short interval of darkness, 'which soon dispersed by the 
 dawning of the day. The body of the sun appeared most 
 distinct with the rotundity of the moon, before it rose 
 high enough to render its beams too brilliant for our sight. 
 The sea, which bounded the western part, was gilt by its 
 rays, first in slender streaks, at length glowing with red- 
 ness. The prospect was disclosed like the gradual draw- 
 ing up of a curtain in a theatre. We saw more and more, 
 till the heat became so powerful as to attract the mists 
 from the various lakes, which in a slight degree obscured 
 the prospect. The shadow of the mountain was flung 
 many miles, i>nd shewed its bicapitated form ; the Wyddfa 
 
284 SNOWDON. 
 
 making one, Crib y Dysdyll the other head. I counted 
 this time between twenty and thirty lakes, either in this 
 county, or Merionethshire. The day proved so exces- 
 sively hot, that my journey cost me the skin of the lower 
 part of my face, before I reached the resting place." 
 
 At another visit, the same celebrated traveller remarks — 
 ' ' On this day, the sky was obscured very soon after I got 
 up. A vast mist enveloped the whole circuit of themoun- 
 tain. The prospect down was horrible. It gave an idea 
 of numbers of abysses, concealed by a thick smoke, furi- 
 ously circulating around us. Very often a gust of wind 
 formed an opening in the clouds, which gave a fine and 
 distinct view of lake and valley. Sometimes they opened 
 only in one place ; at others, in many at once, exhibiting 
 a most strange and perplexing view of water, fields, 
 rocks, or chasms, in fifty different places. They then 
 closed at once, and left us involved in darkness ; in a 
 short time they would separate again, and fly in wild 
 eddies round the middle of the mountains, and expose, 
 in parts, both tops and bases clear to our view. We 
 descended from this various scene with great reluctance ; 
 but before we reached our horses, a thunder storm over- 
 took us. Its rolling among the mountains was inexpres- 
 sibly awful ; the rain uncommonly heavy. We remounted 
 our horses, and gained the bottom with great hazard. 
 The little rills, which on our ascent trickled along the 
 gullies on the sides of the mountain, were now swelled 
 into torrents ; and we and our stedds passed with the 
 utmost risk of being swept away by these sudden waters. 
 At length we arrived safe, yet sufficiently wet and weary, 
 to our former quarters. 
 
 " It is very seldom that the traveller gets a propitious 
 day to ascend Snowdon ; for often, when it appears clear, 
 it becomes suddenly and unexpectedly enveloped in mist, 
 by its attraction of clouds, which just before seemed re- 
 mote and at great heights. At times I have observed them 
 lower to half their heights, and notwithstanding they have 
 been dispersed to the right and to the left, yet they have 
 met from both sides, and united to involve the summit in 
 one great obscurity. The quantity of water which flows 
 from the lakes of Snowdonia is very considerable ; so 
 much, that I doubt not but collectively, they would ex- 
 
SNOW DON. 285 
 
 ceed the waters of the Thames before it meets the conflux 
 of the ocean." 
 
 Mr. Bingley's Ascent. 
 
 This industrious and persevering traveller observes, 
 " I had made a determination, soon after I came into 
 Wales, that I would ascend Snowdon by all the tracks 
 that are usually pointed out to travellers." This gentle- 
 man had already accomplished the task in three instances, 
 his routes being first from Dolbadarn castle, secondly from 
 Llanberis, and thirdly from Llyn Cwellyn. The fourth, 
 the description of which we are about to borrow, as more 
 descriptive than any of the others, is the route from 
 Bedd-gelert. He says, * ' The distance from Bedd-gelert 
 to the summit, being reckoned not less than six miles, 
 and a lady being one of our number, it was thought most 
 eligible for her to ride as far as she could without danger, 
 and for the rest to walk the whole of the way. In this 
 manner, therefore, we set out, commencing our mountain 
 journey by turning to the right, from the Caernarvon 
 road, at the distance of about two miles and a half from 
 the village. We left the horse at a cottage, about half 
 way up, from whence taking a bottle of milk to mix with 
 some rum that we had brought along with us, we con- 
 tinued our route over a series of pointed and craggy 
 rocks. 
 
 " Stopping at different times to rest, we enjoyed to 
 the utmost the prospects that by degrees were opening 
 around us. Caernarvon and the Isle of Anglesey, aided 
 by the brightness of the morning, were seen to great ad- 
 vantage ; and Cwellyn below us, shaded by the vast 
 Mynydd Mawr, with Castell Cidwn at its foot, appeared 
 extremely beautiful. 
 
 " In ascending the mountains, which from below 
 seemed of immense height, they began now to appear 
 beneath us ; the lakes and vallies were more exposed, 
 and all the little rills and mountain streams, by degrees 
 became visible to us, like silver lines intersecting the 
 hollows around. Towards the upper part of the moun- 
 tain, we passed over a tremendous ridge of rock, called 
 Clawdd Coch, the Red Ridge. This narrow pass, not 
 more than ten or twelve feet across, and two or three 
 
286 SNOWDON. 
 
 hundred yards in length, was so steep, that the eye 
 reached on each side, down the whole extent of the 
 mountain. And I am persuaded, that in some parts of 
 it, if a person held a large stone in each hand, and let 
 them both fall at once, each might roll above a quarter 
 of a mile, and thus, when they stopped, they might be 
 more than half a mile asunder. 
 
 " The lady who accompanied us, to my great surprise, 
 passed the ridge without the least apparent signs of fear 
 or trepidation. There is no danger whatever in passing 
 Clawdd Coch in the day-time, but I must confess, that I 
 should by no means like to venture along this tract in the 
 night, as many do who have never seen it. If the moon 
 shone very bright, we might, it is true, escape unhurt ; 
 but a dark cloud coming suddenly over, would certainly 
 expose us to much danger. Many instances have occurred 
 of persons who, having passed over it in the night, were 
 so terrified at seeing it by day-light the next morning, 
 that they have not dared to return the same way, but 
 have gone a very circuitous round by Bettws. I was in- 
 formed that one gentleman, had been so much alarmed, 
 that he crawled over it back again on his hands and knees. 
 In the hollow on the left of the ascent, are four small 
 pools, called Llyn Coch, the red pool ; Llyn Glds, the 
 blue pool ; Llyn y Nadroedd, the adder's pool ; and 
 Llyn Ffynnon y Guoas, the servant's pool. 
 
 " Soon after we had passed Clawdd Coch, we became 
 immersed in light clouds, till we arrived at the summit 
 of the mountain, when a single gleam of sunshine, which 
 lasted but for a moment, presented us with the majestic 
 scenery on the west of our station. It served only, how- 
 ever, to tantalize our hopes, for a smart gust of wind 
 again obscured us in clouds. We now sheltered our- 
 selves from the cold, under some of the projecting rocks 
 near the top, and ate our dinners, watching with anxiety 
 the dark shades in the clouds, in hopes that a separation 
 might take place, and that we should be once more de- 
 lighted with a sight of the grand objects around us. We 
 did not watch in vain, for the clouds by degrees cleared 
 away, and left us at full liberty to admire the numerous 
 beauties in this expansive scene. The steep rock of 
 Clogwyn y Garnedd, whose dreadful precipices are, some 
 
287 
 
 of them, above two hundred yards in perpendicular 
 height, and the whole rock, a series of precipices, was 
 an object which first struck one of my companions with 
 terror, and he exclaimed, almost involuntarily, 
 
 How fearful 
 
 And dizzy 'tis to cast one's eye so low ! 
 
 The crows and choughs that wing the mid-way air 
 
 Scarce shew so gross as beetles. 
 
 " We now stood on a point which commanded the 
 whole dome of the sky. The prospects below, each of 
 which we had before considered separately as a grand 
 scene, were now only miniature parts of the immense 
 landscape. We had around us such a variety of moun- 
 tains, vallies, lakes, and streams, each receding behind 
 the other, and bounded only by the far distant horizon, 
 that the eye almost strained itself with looking upon 
 them. These majestic prospects were soon shut from our 
 sight by the gathering clouds, which now began to close 
 in much heavier than they had done before, and it was in 
 vain that we waited near an hour for another opening. 
 
 " We were, therefore, at length obliged to descend, in 
 despair of being any more gratified with these sublime 
 prospects. We again passed Clawdd Coch, and soon 
 afterwards, turning to the left, descended into the moun- 
 tain vale, called Cwm Llan. We followed the course of 
 a stream, which flows from thence into Llyn y Dinas, in 
 Nant Hwynan. This little rivulet entertained us much 
 in its dcesent, being, in many places, thrown over low 
 rocks, forming small, but sometimes elegant cascades. 
 After a walk of two hours, we arrived in Nant Hwynan, 
 the vale that I had traversed with so much pleasure a 
 day or two before ; and passing by Llyn y Dinas, and 
 Dinas Emrys, soon afterwards reached Bedd-gelert, not a 
 little fatigued with our mountain ramble. 
 
 " I observed near a cottage in Cwm Llan, that several 
 children were employed in gathering the berries of the 
 mountain ash. On inquiring of the guide to what pur- 
 pose this was done, he informed me that the Welsh people 
 brew from them a liquor, which they call D'iod Gr'iafoL 
 This, he said, was done by merely crushing the berries, 
 
288 SNOWDON. 
 
 and putting water to them, which, after remaining a 
 fortnight, is drawn off for use. The flavour, as I un- 
 derstood him, was somewhat like that of perry*" 
 
 Ascent from Dolbadarn. 
 
 As it is usually a prime object with travellers who visit 
 Caernarvonshire, to climb her principal Alpine mountain, 
 we shall add to the above, a third description of an ascent, 
 from Dolbadarn, a different point from either of the two 
 former. This account is taken from a small useful publi- 
 cation, entitled "Guide to Bangor, Beaumaris, and Snow- 
 donia," by Mr. John Smith of Liverpool. The narrative 
 is written by a friend of Mr. Smith, who, the latter 
 informs us, was a companion of the late lamented Belzoni, 
 and the period when the ascent was performed, was the 
 summer of 1825. We give the account in the narrator's 
 own words — 
 
 " It was about half-past twelve when we left our inn 
 at Dolbadarn, and I think a more lovely morning we 
 could not be favoured with : nature did indeed seem at 
 rest ; not a cloud appeared to move, and a bright and 
 nearly full moon, which had passed the meridian, seemed 
 as if waiting to light us on our w 7 ay. Our party consisted 
 of three of the ladies, (the fourth not having strength for 
 the task) Mr. M., myself, two gentlemen who joined us 
 at Dolbadarn, our guide, and his faithful dog. The 
 ladies were furnished with a stout poney each, but the 
 gentlemen preferred climbing on foot the steep ascent, 
 and, I believe, before they returned, repented heartily 
 having done so. The guide was equipped with a leathern 
 belt, to which was buckled a tin vessel containing water, 
 and a staff which seemed well worn with the hard service 
 in which it was employed. 
 
 " We proceeded across a small rivulet a short distance 
 from the inn, and soon entered on a kind of mountain 
 horse-path, composed of loose slate and stones, of Which 
 our pedestrians soon began to be weary. After ascend- 
 ing this about a mile, we arrived at a rough fence of turf 
 and stones, where the road wound round the side of a 
 mountain, and entered a kind of defile, through which 
 we had to proceed. Here our guide desired us to look 
 back at the view beneath us, and, when we did so, our 
 
feelings and expressions of delight and astonishment were 
 general : below us the lake of Llanberis lay stretched 
 like an immense mirror in the shade, with one bright 
 silvery ray resting on its glassy surface, in which part of 
 the steep mountains that surrounded it appeared reflected. 
 To attempt to describe the beautiful and varying tints on 
 those mountains, would be as useless a task as the most 
 vivid colours would be foolishly employed in trying to 
 represent them. In the distance, and on our right, D61- 
 badarn tower was just visible at the head of the lower 
 lake, and on our left the inn, surrounded with the only 
 trees in the neighbourhood, formed a striking object : we 
 reflected with pleasure, as we looked towards it, that the 
 lady whose health would not allow her to accompany us, 
 was there enjoying a refreshing sleep, and would, when 
 awake, be anxiously waiting for our return, and to hear 
 the various accounts we should give of our expedition. 
 
 " We again turned our faces towards Snowdon, on 
 the same road I have before mentioned, and the mild, 
 yet awful and magnificent scene before us afforded abund- 
 ant themes for conversation and remark. In three or 
 four places light fleecy clouds, edged with silver by the 
 moon-beam, and which at first appeared resting on the 
 sides of the mountains, now seemed to be slowly rolling- 
 down their steep sides, and generally mixing with the 
 deep gloom of the valleys below us. Though surround- 
 ed by nature's grandest works, I fancy some of the party 
 were tired even here, as many inquiries had been made 
 relative to the distance we had still to proceed. How- 
 ever, the guide, suddenly stopping, informed us we 
 were now at the " half-way house ; " but no house was to 
 be seen, and on looking round for it we could perceive 
 nothing but a small stream which trickled down the steep, 
 and which replenished our guide's water vessel, which 
 had been emptied some time before by the continual de- 
 mands upon it. 
 
 " We had proceeded now about three miles, and left 
 our slate road by passing through a small wicket which 
 opened on the heath, near which the sagacity of one of 
 the ponies surprised us. The poor animal was blind, 
 and on arriving within three feet of the wicket, which, 
 was open, it drew up and would not proceed till led 
 
290 SNOWDON. 
 
 through by the bridle. One would fancy it had almost 
 numbered its paces. It is surprising with what safety 
 and agility these animals walk over the steep paths and 
 stones they have to pass, and the guide assured us that 
 he had been in the habit of going with travellers nearly 
 twenty years, and never knew a single accident occasion- 
 ed by them. 
 
 " The soft heath we were now passing was a relief to 
 our feet, though it was so steep that we were sometimes 
 obliged to wait to regain breath. At this time we were 
 on the top of a hill, which we fancied was the last we 
 had to mount before the peak of Snowdon, and willingly 
 thought the summit of the bold front before us was to be 
 the end of our journey. Thence the way was over a 
 kind of ridge, perhaps forty yards wide, one side of 
 which was perpendicular for several hundred feet, and 
 the other so steep that no one could stop or steady 
 himself upon it. Daylight now began to appear, to 
 shew us more distinctly the steeps we were amongst, 
 and though we well knew the breadth of the ridge was 
 such that there could be no danger, yet I am sure we all 
 felt that unpleasant sensation which few can approach the 
 edge of a precipice without experiencing in some degree. 
 Tremendous gusts of wind, too, which passed the long 
 heath with a singular whizzing noise, giving warning of 
 their approach, and almost blowing us off our feet as 
 they assailed us, did not make any of us feel easier. 
 
 " However, we went boldly on without accident, ex- 
 cept a hat and bonnet blowing off, which were fortunate- 
 ly recovered, and nearly reached the top of what we had 
 all taken to be our journey's end, when the guide ex- 
 claimed, pointing to a high peak before us, ' ' There is 
 Snowdon top, " and we had the mortification to find that 
 we had still a climbing of three quarters of a mile before 
 us. This powerfully reminded us of a couplet by Pope : 
 
 * The increasing prospect tires our wandering eyes, 
 Hills peep o'er hills, and alps on alps arise.' 
 
 A few minutes more brought us to a small inclosure of 
 stones, where the horses were put up, as they could pro- 
 ceed no further, and now the ladies were obliged to foot 
 
SNOWDON. 291 
 
 it. Here one of the gentlemen gave in, declaring he 
 would proceed no further, and laid down on the moss, 
 saying he would wait our return. Perhaps a little rest 
 was of service to him, for he afterwards joined us at the 
 top of Snowdon. The road here is along the edge of 
 the steep side of the mountain, which is almost perpen- 
 dicular, and is broken with large fragments of slate, 
 stone, and spar, of various kinds, to the very summit, 
 which, to our great joy, we at last attained about half- 
 past four o'clock. Had we waited for months we could 
 not have had a more beautiful time ; as the guide ex- 
 pressed himself, ' Snowdon has its days, and this is one 
 of them.' We sat down; in a few minutes the moon, 
 which had so favoured us, declined behind one of the 
 western mountains, and almost at the same instant the 
 red tints on the eastern horizon foretold the approach of 
 the king of day, the effect of whose rising on such a 
 scene as that below and around us, was the most magni- 
 ficent sight we ever beheld." 
 
 The descent is not related by the writer of the above 
 description. I understand, however, it was merrily per- 
 formed by all the party, whose fatigue in the expedition 
 well qualified them to feel the luxury of a few hours re- 
 pose at Dolbadarn. 
 
 PHOSPECT FROM THE SUMMIT. 
 
 In the foregoing descriptions by three of our most re- 
 spectable tourists, sufficient is contained to afford the 
 traveller a tolerably good idea of the nature of the ascent 
 to the top of Snowdon ; and we shall only add the sub- 
 joined animated description of a view from its summit, 
 by the author of the " Beauties, Harmonies, and Sub- 
 limities of Nature." 
 
 " After climbing over masses of crags and rocks, we 
 ascended the peak of Snowdon. Arrived at its summit, 
 a scene presented itself magnificent beyond the powers of 
 language ! Indeed, language is indigent and impotent 
 when it would presume to sketch scenes on which the 
 Great Eternal has placed his matchless finger with de- 
 light. Faint are thy broad and deep delineations, im- 
 mortal Salvator Rosa! Powerless and feeble are your 
 inspirations, genius of Thomson, Virgil, and Lucretius ! 
 
292 
 
 " From this point are seen five-and-twenty lakes.— 
 Seated on one of the crags, it was long before the eye, 
 unaccustomed to measure such elevations, could accom- 
 modate itself to scenes so admirable : — the whole appear- 
 ing as if there had been a war of the elements ; and as 
 if we were the only inhabitants of the globe permitted to 
 contemplate the ruins of the world. Rocks and moun- 
 tains, which, when observed from below, bear all the 
 evidence of sublimity, when viewed from the summit of 
 Snowdon, are blended with others as dark, as rugged, 
 and as elevated as themselves ; the whole resembling the 
 swellings of an agitated ocean. 
 
 " The extent of this prospect appears almost unlimited. 
 The four kingdoms are seen at once : Wales, England, 
 Scotland, and Ireland! forming the finest panorama the 
 empire can boast. The circle begins with the mountains 
 of Cumberland and Westmorland; those of Ingleborough 
 and Penygent in the county of York, and the hills of 
 Lancashire forefollow ; then are observed the counties of 
 Chester, Flint, Denbigh, and a portion of Montgomery- 
 shire. Nearly the whole of Merioneth succeeds; and 
 drawing a line with the eye along the diameter of the 
 circle, we take in the regions stretching from the triple 
 crown of Cader Idris to the sterile crags of Carnedds- 
 David and Llewelyn. Snowdon, rising in the centre, 
 appears as if he could touch the south with his right 
 hand, and the north with his left. 'Surely,' thought 
 Colonna, ' Caesar sat upon these crags, when he formed 
 the daring conception of governing the world ! ' 
 
 6 ' From Cader Idris, the eye, pursuing the orbit of the 
 bold geographical line, glances over the bay of Cardigan, 
 
 and reposes for a while on the summit of the Rivals . 
 
 After observing the indented shores of Caernarvonshire, 
 it travels over a long line of ocean till, in the extremity 
 of the horizon, the blue mountains of Wicklow termi- 
 nate the perspective. Those mountains gradually sink 
 along the coast till they are lost to the eye ; which, rang- 
 ing along the expanse, at length, as weary of the journey, 
 reposes on the Island of Man, and the distant mountains 
 of Scotland. The intermediate space is occupied by the 
 sides and summits of mountains, hollow crags, masses 
 of rocks, the towers of Caernarvon, the fields of An- 
 
SNOWDON — TAL-Y-LLYN. 293 
 
 glesey, with woods, lakes, and glens, scattered in mag- 
 nificent confusion. 
 
 " A scene like this commands our feelings to echo, as 
 it were, in unison to its grandeur and ^sublimity : the 
 thrill of astonishment, and the transport of imagination, 
 seem to contend for the mastery, and nerves are touched 
 that never thrilled before. We seem as if our former 
 existence were annihilated, and as a new epoch were 
 commenced. Another world opens upon us ; and an un- 
 limited orbit appears to display itself, as a theatre for our 
 ambition.' 5 
 
 [For Angling Stations, see Llanberis.] 
 TAL-Y-LLYN, 
 
 (MERIONETHSHIRE.) 
 
 Dolgellau 8 Machynlleth 8 
 
 DinasMowddwy 7 Towyn 5 
 
 This is an obscure though romantic little village, about 
 half way between Machynlleth and Dolgellau, deriving 
 its name from the church, at the head of a beautiful lake, 
 appropriately called Llyn Mwyngil, or The Lake of the 
 Charming Retreat, from the west end of which issues 
 the river Dysyni, taking its course to the sea through 
 Towyn marsh. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is 
 an ancient building, in the early style of English archi- 
 tecture. The living is a perpetual curacy, in the arch- 
 deaconry of Merioneth, and diocese of Bangor, and in 
 the gift of the Bishop of Lichfield and Coventry. The 
 parish is about eight miles in length, and four in breadth, 
 including a large portion of the lofty mountain of Cader 
 Idris. The scenery is very romantic, and rendered more 
 so by the lakes which are within the limits of the parish. 
 
 The lake of Tal-y-Llyn is small but beautiful ; its 
 greatest breadth is not more than half a mile, and its 
 length between one and two miles. Its northern boundaries 
 consist of rich pasture land, while on the south a high 
 green hill, covered only with short herbage, in fact a 
 mere sheep walk, rears itself to the clouds, and extends 
 
294 TAL-Y-LLYN. 
 
 the whole length of the lake. Its only piscatory produc- 
 tions are trout and eels ; the latter attaining a good size, 
 and finding a safe protection in the deep coat of moss 
 which covers the bottom. Of the trout there are two 
 species, the large lake trout and the common river trout, 
 the latter finding their way into the lake by two or three 
 streams which feed it from the mountain ; these never 
 attain any considerable size, but the others, being in- 
 digenous to the pool, grow to a large size. The finest, 
 which are caught with a fly, vary from half a pound to be- 
 tween one and two pounds ; one weighing more than 
 12lb. was found a few winters ago frozen under the ice. 
 The lake is the property of Colonel Vaughan, who pur- 
 chased it for no other purpose than that of affording his 
 friends the enjoyment of angling therein. The stranger, 
 who is perfectly unknown to the generous-hearted Welsh- 
 man, is equally welcome to participate in the sport, 
 without the formality of begging a day's fishing, or even 
 intimating his intention to the proprietor. The Colonel 
 has also provided a boat for those who visit the lake, 
 which may always be had, if disengaged, by application 
 at the inn. 
 
 Besides the lake already mentioned, there is another 
 under the summit of Cader Idris, called Llyn Cau, 
 or the pool of the chasm, from its being situated under 
 vast cliffs ; it is about a quarter of a mile long, and nearly 
 of equal breadth, and has the appearance of the crater of 
 a volcano, at the head of the chasm, through which a 
 stream runs from the lake, and forms a fine cataract, 
 close to the ancient house of Dolydd Cau, and then 
 unites with another river, which meanders along the level 
 vale below to the upper end of Llyn Mwyngil. The vale 
 in which it is situated is so contracted, as to leave, for a 
 considerable part of its length, only a very narrow road 
 on each side of the lake, from the clear surface of which 
 are reflected its precipitous declivities. Towards the ex- 
 tremity of the vale, the lake contracts gradually into the 
 form of a river, rushing with much force through a stone 
 arch into a very narrow pass, having on one side the 
 church, and on the other a small cluster of houses which 
 form the village, embosomed in trees, and assuming a 
 romantically beautiful appearance. 
 
TAL-Y-LLYN— -TOWYN. 295 
 
 At the distance of a mile or two from the church, the 
 hills almost meet, and present a sterile and rugged aspect; 
 they are broken into numberless crags, of which some 
 are vertical and sharply pointed, but the greater number 
 project horizontally, and impend with threatening gloom 
 over the vale beneath. One of these precipices, from its 
 resemblance in form to a harp, has been called Pen y 
 Delyn ; and another, from a tradition that it was formerly 
 the practice to throw thieves from its summit, has been 
 denominated Llam y Lladron, or The Thieves' Leap, a 
 practice corresponding with that related of the Tarpeian 
 rock at Rome. 
 
 At a short distance from the village of Tal-y-Llyn, there 
 is a small lake called Llyn-tri- Graienyn, or " the pool of 
 the three pebbles," which are three vast stones, that ap- 
 pear to have been tumbled from the mountain above. 
 These, say the peasants, were the three grains which 
 had fallen into the shoe of the giant Idris, who threw 
 them out here, as soon as he felt them hurting his foot. 
 
 Angling Station — The Lake: good fishing. (A boat.) 
 TOWYN, 
 
 (MERIONETHSHIRE.) 
 
 Barmouth 11 London 226 
 
 Dolgellau 16 Machynlleth 14 
 
 Towyn is a market town, beautifully situated at the 
 distance of about a mile from the sea coast, near the 
 mouth of the river Dysyni, in a small and pleasant vale, 
 watered by that stream, and on the verge of a tract which, 
 once formed a very extensive morass, but which has lately 
 been secured by an embankment from the inundation of 
 the tide ; the return of the population for the town and 
 parish is 2694 inhabitants. The Corbet Arms is a re- 
 spectable inn. 
 
 During summer, the place is much frequented for sea- 
 bathing, by persons who prefer retirement to the bustle 
 of a more fashionable watering place. The beach is 
 distant about half a mile, and there are smooth sands ex- 
 
296 TOWYK. 
 
 tending from the mouth of the Dysyni to Aberdovey, a 
 distance of about six miles. Valetudinarians are also 
 attracted hither by a well, called St. Cadvan's, situated 
 in a field below the church, and much celebrated for the 
 cure of rheumatic, scrofulous, and cutaneous disorders. 
 Formerly it was quite open, but for the better accommo- 
 dation of the public it has been inclosed, and formed into 
 two baths, each about six feet square, with four dressing- 
 rooms attached : the whole is under the care of a person 
 appointed for the purpose. 
 
 Several improvements have taken place in the town 
 within the last few years ; some new houses have been 
 erected, and a new line of road has been constructed, 
 forming an easier approach : it is in contemplation also 
 to form a road from this place to Barmouth, which would 
 be productive of great advantage to the town. The ride 
 or drive over the sands to Aberdovey, a rising place 
 about four miles distant, especially at low water, is very 
 pleasant. A beautiful line of road to that interesting 
 village has been constructed, under the auspices of 
 Athelstan Corbet, Esq. (whose seat is near the town,) and 
 is continued from that place to Pennal, affording an ex- 
 tensive ride through a tract of country abounding with 
 picturesque and beautiful scenery, and commanding views 
 of Snowdon, Arran Mowddwy, Cader Idris, and Pum- 
 lummon. 
 
 Towyn is one of the places at which the poll is ap- 
 pointed to be taken in the election of the parliamentary 
 representative of the county. Webs and flannels are 
 manufactured in various parts of the parish, affording 
 employment to a portion of the inhabitants. The mar- 
 ket is held on Friday. 
 
 The church, dedicated to St. Cadvan, is a spacious 
 and ancient cruciform structure, in the Norman style of 
 architecture ; in the interior are contained some very cu- 
 rious and old monuments, which the inquisitive stranger 
 ought not to leave unnoticed. On the north side of the 
 chancel, under arched canopies, are effigies of two per- 
 sons, one of which, wrapped in a winding sheet, is sup- 
 posed to be the tutelar saint ; and the other, in armour, 
 is said to represent Gruffydd ab Adda, of Dolgoch, in 
 this parish. There js also a stone, in the form of a 
 
297 
 
 wedge, about seven feet high, on which is sculptured a 
 cross and an inscription, in very ancient characters, but 
 so mutilated as to be illegible ; it is situated in a field 
 close to the road side, about half a mile from Towyn on 
 the road to Dolgellau, and has always gone by the name 
 of St. Cadvan's stone, although, according to the gene- 
 alogy of the saints, St. Cadvan was buried in the Island 
 of Bardsey There are places of worship for the Inde- 
 pendents, and Calvinistic and Wesleyan Methodists. 
 
 On the contracted summit of an immense rock, rising* 
 to a considerable elevation from the vale, in which the 
 town is situated, are some remains of an ancient castle 
 of great strength ; the fortifications comprehend the en- 
 tire summit of the eminence : one of the apartments, 
 thirty-six feet in diameter, was hewn out of the solid 
 rock The Roman road from Cefn Caer, a Roman sta- 
 tion in the parish of Pennal, in the village of Carreg, on 
 the opposite bank of the river, passes through this 
 parish, near Talgarth. 
 
 Craig-y-Deryn or "the bird's rock," situated in the 
 Vale of Dysyni, about three or four miles from Towyn, 
 is so called from its being the constant resort of numer- 
 ous birds of different kinds, whose discordant clamour add 
 much to the effect of this sequestered spot : the surround- 
 ing scenery is in the highest degree wild and romantic. 
 A small but picturesque waterfall may be seen at Dolgoch. 
 
 At a small distance from the town, is Ynys-y-maen-gwyn, 
 the seat of A. Corbet, Esq. a noble mansion, pleasantly 
 situated in grounds tastefully laid out, comprehending 
 much beautiful scenery, and embellished with flourishing 
 plantations and timber of ancient growth, among which is 
 an evergreen oak, considered to be the finest tree of its 
 kind in the kingdom. The garden ranks among the first 
 in the Principality, being very extensive, and containing 
 numerous very curious and rare trees and plants. 
 
 The angler will find excellent amusement in the Dy- 
 syni, which is an enlarged continuance of the waters that 
 have their egress from Tal-y-Llyn. This river, after 
 rolling through as rude an assemblage of rugged mountains 
 as is to be found in Wales, flows through the flat and 
 fertile vale of Towyn, passing first by Peniarth, a seat 
 belonging to the Wynn family, and then by Ynys-y-maen- 
 
298 TRAWS-FYNYDD. 
 
 gwyn, and finally entering Cardigan bay, about a mile or 
 more eastward of Towyn. This is an excellent river for 
 salmon, and it contains some remarkably dark and deep 
 pools, more especially near Peniarth, where the river 
 winds close by the house ; the angler will also find good 
 sport farther up the mountains. 
 
 Angling Station The river, up to Tal-y-Llyn. 
 
 TRAWS-FYNYDD, 
 
 (MERIONETHSHIRE.) 
 
 Bala 18 Dolgellau.. 12 
 
 This village is situated on an eminence, on the road 
 from Dolgellau to Tan -y-Bwlch, in an exposed and moun- 
 tainous district. The church is an ancient structure of 
 the old English style of architecture ; the parish is of vast 
 extent, being above ten miles in length and eight in 
 breadth, consisting chiefly of barren mountains, used only 
 as sheep walks. At this place a guide may be had to the 
 waterfalls of Pistyll y Cain and Rhaiadr y Mawddach, 
 distant about three or four miles. 
 
 On a farm, not far from the road to Rhiw-goch, is 
 Bedd Poms, or the grave of Porus, having a flat stone 
 over it, with a broken Latin inscription ; and at a short 
 distance, in another field, is a large upright stone, called 
 Llech Idris, or Idris' stone, from which the farm takes 
 its name. At a pass on the road to Bala, is a singular 
 fort, called Castell Prysor, which Llwyd considers a re- 
 lic of Roman architecture, although the design cannot 
 now be conjectured. The remains are rather slight ; the 
 facings are regular, but the work is destitute of mortar. 
 
 On the road side towards Ffestiniog, is Llyn Rathlyn, 
 a small lake, noted for a singular variety of perch, having 
 the lower, extremity of the back-bone strangely distorted. 
 The Llafar, a branch of the river Mawddach, rises in this 
 parish. 
 
 The celebrated Humphrey Lloyd, who was consecrat- 
 ed Bishop of Bangor in 1673, was born at a place called 
 Bdd-y-Vuddai, in the parish of Traws-fynydd. 
 
TREMADOC. 299 
 
 TREMADOC, 
 
 (CAERNARVONSHIRE.) 
 
 Barmouth 20 Harlech 10 
 
 Bedd-gelert 7 Pwllheli 14 
 
 Caernarvon 20 Tan-y-Bwlch 10 
 
 Ffestiniog 13 
 
 Tremadoc is a market town and sea-port of very recent 
 origin, and is a signal instance of the triumph of public- 
 spirited perseverance over accumulated and apparently 
 insurmountable local difficulties : it derives its name from 
 its patriotic and enterprising founder, the late William 
 Alexander Madocks, Esq. This gentleman, having pro- 
 jected a plan for regaining from the sea a portion of the 
 land on the western side of the wide sandy estuary called 
 the " Traeth Mawr," purchased the estate of Tan-yr-allt, 
 in the immediate vicinity, in 1798, and in 1800 succeeded 
 in recovering a tract of nearly two thousand acres of rich 
 land, then forming Penmorfa marsh, w r hich now produces 
 excellent crops of wheat, barley, and clover, to which 
 he gave the appropriate name of Glandwr. 
 
 Encouraged by the success of his first attempt, Mr. 
 Madocks was induced to undertake the more arduous en- 
 terprise of reclaiming the whole of the Traeth Mawr, 
 and for this purpose he obtained, in 1808, an act of par- 
 liament, vesting in him and his heirs the whole extent of 
 these sands, from Pont Aber Glaslyn, at their head, to 
 the point of Gest, at their lower extremity. 
 
 Notwithstanding the numerous unforeseen obstacles 
 which threatened to frustrate the undertaking, Mr. 
 Madocks succeeded in constructing across the mouth of 
 the Traeth Mawr, at the eastern extremity of Cardigan 
 bay, an embankment of earth and stones, nearly one 
 mile in length, from north to south, varying from one 
 hundred to four hundred feet in breadth at the base, and 
 diminishing gradually to the summit, which is one hundred 
 feet high from the foundation. By means of this em- 
 bankment, which, having an excellent road along its 
 summit, aline of communication has been formed between 
 the counties of Caernarvon and Merioneth, a tract of more 
 
300 TREMADOC. 
 
 than 2700 acres of land was recovered from the sea, 
 besides a vast extent of adjoining land, which was before 
 overflowed by the tides, but is now, by draining, rendered 
 susceptible of cultivation. This arduous enterprise was 
 completed in 1811, at an expense of more than £100,000 ; 
 and, including the lands previously recovered, not less 
 than 7,000 acres have been regained, 6,000 of which are 
 now cultivated. 
 
 The embankment, which was so dangerously narrow 
 at the top (only four yards) has been lately widened and 
 much improved by erecting protecting walls on each side 
 the road : the public may now pass along it in perfect 
 safety without leading their horses. It is desirable that 
 future tourists should know this fact, as formerly many, 
 rather than go over the embankment, were in the habit 
 of avoiding this interesting neighbourhood altogether. 
 
 The town is situated by -the side of a lofty mountain, 
 on the western side of Traeth Mawr, on a portion 
 of the tract first recovered from the sea, and is built 
 in the form of a square quadrangular area, having in 
 the centre a lofty column, round the pedestal of which 
 there is a flight of twelve steps. On the eastern side a 
 commodious market-house has been erected, above which 
 is a handsome assembly room. Mr. Madocks also built, 
 at his own expense, a handsome church, in the late style 
 of English architecture, with a lofty spire, which forms 
 an interesting object as seen from the coast ; Divine ser- 
 vice is regularly performed in the English language every 
 Sunday, which is a great accommodation to families re- 
 siding in the neighbourhood, as there is no other church 
 within twenty miles in which the service is performed in 
 English. The Madoc Arms inn and boarding house is a 
 respectable establishment. The market is held on Friday. 
 A coach, which runs three days a week from Caernarvon 
 to Barmouth, passes through Tremadoc. 
 
 Tan-yr-Allt, the seat of the late W. A. Madocks, Esq. 
 is a spacious modern mansion of elegant design, situated 
 on an elevated rock overlooking the town ; it is sur- 
 rounded with thriving plantations, and with its entrance 
 lodge of neat and appropriate construction, presents a 
 
 pleasing and picturesque appearance Morfa Lodge, and 
 
 Tu-hwnt-i'r-Bwlch, erected also by that gentleman, are 
 handsome villas in the immediate vicinity of the town. 
 
TREMADOC — WELSHPOOL. 301 
 
 With a view to promote the commercial interests of 
 the town which he had founded, Mr. Madocks, in 1821, 
 obtained an act of parliament for improving the naviga- 
 tion of this part of the bay on which it is situated, under 
 the provisions of which he rendered it accessible to vessels 
 of three hundred tons burthen, which can now lie here in 
 safety, and constructed commodious quays and wharfs 
 for the landing and shipping of goods. 
 
 The last improvement carried into effect was the erec- 
 tion of Port Madoc, about one mile from the town, where 
 many good houses have been built, and a considerable 
 trade is now carried on. The principal exports are slates, 
 which are brought from the Ffestiniog quarries, and of 
 which about ten thousand tons are shipped annually from 
 this place ; and copper ore, which is brought from the 
 neighbouring mines. The chief imports are timber, coal, 
 and lime. A rail-road from the Ffestiniog quarries, and 
 the mines in the neighbourhood, to this place, has now 
 been completed under an act recently passed for that 
 purpose. Lead-ore has been discovered at Gest, near 
 this town, and an excellent road has been constructed by 
 Mr. Madocks from Aberglaslyn, through Tremadoc, to 
 Nevyn, on the western coast of Caernarvonshire. The 
 harbour of Port Madoc has also been lately much im- 
 proved by extending the quay and erecting a breakwater. 
 
 The road from Tremadoc to Bedd-gelert, along the 
 northern side of Traeth-Mawr, passes for some distance 
 under perpendicular cliffs of great height, in which are 
 numerous chasms and fissures. After heavy rains, or 
 long-continued frosts, immense masses are sometimes de- 
 tached from the impending precipices, and fall with a 
 tremendous crash, bestrewing the way with fragments, 
 sometimes of sufficient magnitude to obstruct the passage. 
 This road commands to great advantage the scenery of 
 the Merionethshire side of the Traeth, and affords a de- 
 lightful ride to Pont Aberglaslyn and its vicinity. 
 
 WELSHPOOL, 
 
 (MONTGOMERYSHIRE.) 
 
 Llanfair 8 Newtown 14 
 
 London 171 Oswestry \q 
 
 Montgomery 8 Shrewsbury 18 
 
302 WELSHPOOL. 
 
 This town is called Welsh, to distinguish it from a 
 town of the same name in Dorsetshire, and Pool from 
 its proximity to a piece of water called Llyn-du Pool, 
 now within the inclosure of Powys park. The town, 
 which Leland describes as being in the reign of Henry 
 VIII. "the best market in Powys," still retains that 
 character, in addition to which it may justly be regarded 
 as the modern capital of the county, and, with the parish, 
 contains 4536 inhabitants. It is situated for the greater 
 part in a hollow, which opens towards the river Severn, 
 and extends up the acclivity of an eminence towards 
 Powys park and castle : it consists of two towns, called 
 respectively Pool town and Welsh town, but which are 
 now so entirely united, as to form but one. It is large 
 and populous, well lighted with gas, and consists of one 
 long and wide street, intersected at right angles by an- 
 other of similar character, and also by several streets of 
 smaller extent, all well paved and plentifully supplied 
 with water. The houses are handsomely built of brick, 
 and with an unusual degree of regularity for this part of 
 the country ; the whole has a cheerful and prepossessing 
 appearance, having more the character of an English than 
 of a Welsh town. This impression, which strikes the 
 stranger on his entrance, is strengthened both by the pre- 
 vailing language and the manners of the inhabitants, the 
 Welsh language being spoken by few, except such as 
 come from the upper part of the county upon business. 
 
 The flannel manufacture is carried on here, but upon a 
 much inferior scale to its extent either at Llanidloes or 
 Newtown ; until lately it was the principal mart for 
 the sale of flannels made throughout the whole of the 
 manufacturing district of North Wales, but now a part 
 of the business has been transferred to Newtown. A 
 considerable trade is carried on here in malt, for the 
 making of which there are several kilns in the town and 
 neighbourhood, and there are likewise, several tanneries 
 upon a large scale. The river Severn is navigable to 
 within a short distance of the town ; and the Montgo- 
 meryshire canal, which passes close to it, joins the 
 Ellesmere canal near Oswestry, affording a facility of 
 communication with Shrewsbury and all parts of the 
 kingdom. The market, which is amply supplied with 
 
WELSHPOOL. 303 
 
 provisions, is held on Monday. Principal inns, the 
 Royal Oak and the Bear. 
 
 The corporation consists of two bailiffs and an indefi- 
 nite number of aldermen and burgesses, with a high 
 steward, recorder, town-clerk, coroner, two sergeants 
 at mace, two yeomen, and other officers. By the recent 
 act to amend the representation, Welshpool is made con- 
 tributary with Llanidloes, Llanfyllin, Machynlleth, 
 
 Montgomery, and Newtown, in returning a member 
 
 The assizes for the county are held in this town. The 
 town-hall is a handsome and commodious building of 
 brick, in the centre of the principal street, with a 
 colonnade in front. 
 
 The church, dedicated to St. Mary, with the exception 
 of the chancel and the tower, was rebuilt in 1 774. It is 
 a spacious and handsome structure, in the early style of 
 English architecture, with a lofty square embattled tower, 
 and was enlarged by the addition of galleries, in 1824. 
 Amongst the communion plate, there is a chalice of fine 
 gold, holding one quart, and valued at £170 ; engraved 
 on it is a Latin inscription, stating it to have been pre- 
 sented to the church of Pool, by Thomas Davies, Gover- 
 nor-general of the English colonies on the western coast 
 of Africa, in gratitude for the preservation of his life 
 during his residence in that unhealthful clime. There is a 
 gradual ascent from the flat part of the town to the 
 church, which stands at the base of a loftier eminence ; 
 so that the cemetry, which lies on the aclivity, is in 
 some parts higher than the church itself, and commands 
 a fine view of Powys castle, and the town beneath. 
 There are also places of worship for Baptists, Indepen- 
 dents, and Calvinistic and Wesleyan Methodists. In the 
 upper story of the town-hall is a room one hundred and 
 two feet long, in which a grand Eisteddfod was held in 
 1824. 
 
 Powys Castle, 
 the seat of Lord Clive, is a stately but irregular pile of 
 building, of great extent, and venerable for its antiquity : 
 it is pleasantly situated in a well- wooded park, at the 
 distance of a mile from the town, on the right of the 
 road leading to Montgomery, and occupies an elevated 
 and commanding site on a ridge of rocks overlooking a 
 
304 WELSHPOOL. 
 
 vast extent of richly diversified country, the greater part 
 of which was formerly subject to its lord. It is built of 
 red sand-stone, from which circumstance it derived the 
 appellation of Castell Coch, which it still retains among 
 the Welsh. Considerable improvements have been made 
 in its external appearance under the auspices of its pre- 
 sent proprietor, by removing the sash windows which 
 had been inserted more than a century ago, and restoring 
 others of the original form, more in conformity with the 
 prevailing style of architecture, and by a considerable 
 addition to the height of the tower on the north side. 
 The whole of the interior is furnished in a superior style 
 of grandeur, splendidly decorated, and contains valuable 
 paintings and antiques, among which are some exquisite 
 sculptures from the ruins of Herculaneum. 
 
 The lower terrace leads to a delightful walk, shaded 
 with trees of every variety; and from the north-east angle 
 of the castle, there is a terrace, which was most probably 
 formed by the excavation of the rock for the stone with 
 which the castle is built, commanding a fine view of the 
 richly-wooded vale of the Severn, with the town of 
 Welshpool, beyond which are seen the 'Rallt and Moel y 
 Golva, and the Breiddin hills, and an extensive tract of 
 the surrounding country. 
 
 The park, which is very extensive and richly wooded, 
 lies on the acclivity of a hill, of which the summit is 
 two miles distant from the castle, from whence there is 
 a most extensive prospect, commanding distant views of 
 Snowdon, Cader Idris, Pumlummon, and other mountains. 
 A winding road through it leads to the castle, which is 
 frequently lost to the view of the spectator on his ap- 
 proach, and is seen emerging again from the luxuriant 
 foliage by which it had been concealed. The park is or- 
 namented with numerous rustic seats, and the walk 
 through these delightfully varied grounds, which are open 
 to the public, is a source of much enjoyment to the in- 
 habitants of the town. The Valley of Pool, a rich 
 country watered by the Severn, is spread in front, 
 stretching away to the beautiful chain of Breiddin hills, 
 the summit of which is adorned by an obelisk, comme- 
 morative of the glorious victory of Admiral Rodney over 
 the French fleet, in the West Indies, on the 12th of 
 April, 1782. 
 
WELSHPOOL— WREXHAM. 305 
 
 On the breaking out of the civil war of the seventeenth 
 century, Piercy, Lord Powys, declared himself an ad- 
 vocate of the royal cause, fortified his castle, and placed 
 in it a strong garrison, of which he took the command 
 in person. It was soon afterwards besieged by a strong 
 party of the parliamentary forces, under the command of 
 Sir Thomas Myddelton ; and its outward walls having 
 been materially damaged by the artillery of the assailants, 
 it was at length reduced, the noble commander of 
 the garrison taken prisoner, and the place given up to 
 pillage. Upon this occasion, the castle and lordship were 
 confiscated to the use of the parliament ; but, according 
 to the general orders issued at the time, the proprietor of 
 the estate was allowed to compound with the parliament, 
 
 by which means he retained possession of them The 
 
 Right Hon. Edward Herbert, Viscount Clive, eldest son 
 of the Earl of Powys, is the present proprietor. 
 
 Angling Stations. 
 
 Distances from Welshpool, Miles. 
 
 Berriew, on the confluence of the Rhiw & Severn 5 
 
 Llandysilio, on the Vyrnwy 8 
 
 Llandrinio 9 
 
 Llanvyllin, the Abel, Cain, and Vyrnwy 12 
 
 WREXHAM, 
 
 (DENBIGHSHIRE.) 
 
 Chester 12 Oswestry 16 
 
 Llangollen ll£ Ruthin 16 
 
 Wrexham is a large and well-built town, whose popu- 
 lation, including the parish, was returned, in 1831, at 
 11,515 inhabitants. From its extent and importance, it 
 has sometimes been denominated the metropolis of North 
 Wales. This place, which is of very remote antiquity, 
 is noticed in the Saxon Chronicle, under the names of 
 Wrightenshem and Wrightelesham, from which the pre- 
 sent appellation is most probably derived. From its situ- 
 ation on the western side of Clawdd Offa, or OftVs 
 
306 WREXHAM. 
 
 Dyke, it was enumerated among the towns of the Saxon 
 kingdom of Mercia, but was at a subsequent period in- 
 cluded in the district called Welsh Maelor. 
 
 In the time of Henry VIII. it was noticed by Leland 
 as a trading town, having some merchants and good 
 buckler makers. During the civil wars in the time of 
 Charles I. the church was converted into a temporary 
 prison. No remarkable event however took place here 
 during that war, except that in March, 1646, some of the 
 parliamentarian soldiers mutinied for their pay, seized 
 Colonel Jones the treasurer, and others of the parlia- 
 mentary commissioners, and compelled Colonel Mytton, 
 who had just entered the town, to make a hasty retreat 
 to Holt castle. 
 
 The town is pleasantly and advantageously situated at 
 the junction of the Shrewsbury, Welshpool, Oswestry, 
 and Chester roads, and in the centre of the mining and 
 manufacturing districts of the eastern part of Denbigh- 
 shire ; it consists of several spacious streets, intersecting 
 each other at right angles, the houses in which are in 
 general neatly and substantially built ; it is well paved 
 and lighted with gas, and the inhabitants are plentifully 
 supplied with water. A small theatre is occasionally 
 opened for dramatic performances ; and races are annu- 
 ally held early in October, on a course a little north-west 
 of the town, on the right of the road to Mold. 
 
 No particular branch of trade or manufacture is carried 
 on in the town ; but the parish, which is about twelve 
 miles in length, abounds with mineral wealth, and ex- 
 tensive works of various kinds are carried on in different 
 parts of it. The principal inns are the Wynnstay Arms 
 and the Red Lion. — Markets are held on Thursday and 
 Saturday, the former being the chief market day. There 
 are several fairs held annually for cattle ; but the princi- 
 pal one is that which commences on the 23rd of March, 
 and continues for fourteen days. For the accommodation 
 of the various dealers attending it, five extensive areas 
 are fitted up with shops and booths : one of these com- 
 mercial halls confers twenty-eight votes for the county 
 upon its proprietors, who are principally inhabitants of 
 Huddersfield. This fair is attended not only by the in- 
 habitants of the neighbouring district, but by tradesmen 
 from distant parts of the kingdom. 
 
WREXHAM 307 
 
 By the recent act to amend the representation, Wrex- 
 ham has been made contributary with Denbigh, Holt, 
 and Ruthin, in the return of a parliamentary representa- 
 tive ; it has also been made one of the polling places in 
 the election of knights of the shire. The town is under 
 the j urisdiction of the county magistrates, who hold petty 
 sessions in it every month. The town-hall is a large 
 brick edifice, situated at the top of High-street ; the 
 ground floor was formerly open, but is now inclosed be- 
 tween the pillars that support the upper story : this con- 
 sists of a spacious and lofty room, formerly the court of 
 justice, but now only used for public meetings, and as a 
 depot for arms. A county house of correction, situated 
 here, comprises seven wards for the classification of 
 prisoners, who are allowed a portion of their earnings. 
 
 The church, dedicated to St. Giles, is a spacious and 
 venerable structure, deservedly regarded as one of the 
 finest ecclesiastical edifices in the Principality, and is 
 particularly worthy of observation. The steeple of the 
 original church was blown down in 1331 ; and in 1457, 
 the church was burnt. In order to promote the re-build- 
 ing of it, an indulgence of forty days, to be continued for 
 five years, was granted to every one who contributed to 
 that work, and the present structure was erected about 
 the year 1472, the glass used in the windows having been 
 brought from Normandy : the tower was not finished till 
 about the year 1506, as appears by a date on the building. 
 No fewer than 1550 sittings have recently been added, of 
 which 900 are free. The exterior of the building is em- 
 bellished with grotesque sculpture ; and the tower, which 
 is very lofty and highly enriched, consists of several suc- 
 cessive stages, pannelled throughout, and decorated with 
 numerous statues of saints, among which is that of its 
 patron, St. Giles, in canopied niches, elaborately wrought : 
 from its elevation, and the light open-work turrets by 
 which it is crowned at the angles, it forms a conspicuous 
 and highly interesting object, as seen from every part of 
 the surrounding country. 
 
 The altar-piece is embellished with rich columns of 
 the Corinthian order, and in the centre is a painting of 
 the last supper, presented to the church by Elihu Yale, 
 of Plas Gronow, who also presented a painting of 
 
308 WREXHAM. 
 
 David playing on the harp, which is placed' in another 
 part of the church. Among the most ancient of the 
 monuments, is that of a knight in complete armour : 
 at the feet is a dog, and beyond it a dragon, with the 
 point of the tail terminating in a serpent's head ; on the 
 shield is a lion rampant, and around it an inscription, of 
 which only the words Hicjacet are legible. 
 
 In the chancel there is an altar-tomb, on which is a 
 recumbent effigy of Dr. Bellot, successively Bishop of 
 Bangor and Chester, in his episcopal robes ; he died at 
 Bersham, in this parish, in 1596, and here he was in- 
 terred. Nearly opposite to this tomb, is an exquisite and 
 highly interesting monument, by Roubilliac, to the me- 
 mory of Mrs. Mary Myddelton, of Chirk Castle, in 
 which she is represented rising from the tomb in all the 
 freshness of youth and beauty ; above is a shattered py- 
 ramid, with a cypress tree, and near it an angel with a 
 trumpet. At the corner of the aisle there is a monument, 
 also by Roubilliac, to the Rev. Thomas Myddelton, and 
 Arabella his wife ; their profiles are finely executed on 
 medallions, with a curtain, partly drawn aside, the 
 drapery of which is exquisitely sculptured. There are 
 also several monuments of very good design and elaborate 
 execution, to William Lloyd, Esq. and his son ; to the 
 Fitzhughs, the Pulestons, the Longuevilles, and others. 
 In the churchyard is the tomb of Elihu Yale, formerly 
 Governor of Madras (who bestowed the two paintings on 
 the church, as before mentioned), with a very curious 
 epitaph. 
 
 In the town are places of worship for Baptists, Inde- 
 pendents, Calvinistic and Wesleyan Methodists, and a 
 Roman Catholic chapel. There is a good school well 
 endowed, and a number of charitable institutions liberally 
 supported. 
 
 Acton Park. 
 About a mile from Wrexham, on the right of the road 
 leading to Chester, is Acton Park, the property and 
 residence of Sir R. H. Cunliffe, Bart, a spacious man- 
 sion, delightfully situated in extensive grounds, richly 
 diversified with picturesque and romantic scenery, and 
 commanding pleasing views over the town and adjacent 
 
LIVERPOOL. 309 
 
 country, which abounds with features of beauty and in- 
 terest. This place acquires some celebrity from its hav- 
 ing formerly been the seat of the family of Jeffreys, and 
 the birth place of the notorious judge of that name. 
 
 LIVERPOOL, 
 
 (LANCASHIRE.) 
 
 [The compiler has, in this instance, departed from the 
 alphabetical arrangement hitherto observed in the work, 
 in order to introduce with more effect an account of the 
 voyage from this great commercial town to the very cen- 
 tre of the Principality. From all parts of Lancashire, 
 Yorkshire, and the whole of the northern counties, Li- 
 verpool is the immediate and natural course for the tour- 
 ist ; and such are now the facilities of travelling, from 
 the introduction of rail-roads and steam packets, that a 
 person may partake of an early breakfast in the centre of 
 Lancashire, and a not late dinner in the heart of the 
 Caernarvonshire mountains, or in the chief town of the 
 Island of Anglesey.] 
 
 To a stranger, Liverpool affords numerous objects of 
 attraction, and two or three days might be agreeably em- 
 ployed in visiting them. It would be futile to attempt a 
 description of them in the limits assigned to this article, 
 but there are several local publications that may be had 
 of the booksellers in the town, which will serve as a 
 gratifying directory to the stranger. iimong the objects 
 of curiosity, however, which may be enumerated as 
 worthy of attention, are the various charitable institutions, 
 the magnificent rooms of the Town-hall, the Exchange, 
 the docks, thickly crowded with vessels from every 
 quarter of the world, especially one or more of the 
 American packet ships ; its John's Market, the Royal 
 Institution, the Botanic Garden, the Great Cemetry, the 
 Public News-rooms and Libraries, the Diorama, the 
 Theatre or Amphitheatre, the Rail-way Tunnel passing 
 under the town, the Corporation Baths, the Floating 
 Bath, the Camera Obscura, &c. &c. 
 
 The extent and magnificence of this surprising place 
 
310 VOYAGE TO THE MENAI BRIDGE. 
 
 may be contemplated as a wonder, even in the present 
 age of improvement, especially when it is borne in mind 
 that little more than a century and a half ago the site of 
 this colossal mass of building and commerce was called 
 a village, designated in Custom-house language as " A 
 creek of the Port of Chester!'' The town itself has 
 been greatly improved, and has risen to its present opu- 
 lence by a growing commerce, of which steam naviga- 
 tion has been one powerful cause. Another fortunate 
 circumstance that has not a little contributed to this vast 
 improvement, is the public spirit of the corporate body, 
 who derive an immense revenue from the docks and the 
 purchase of extensive tracts of land, which are let out 
 in building leases. An intelligent gentleman, resident 
 in the town, observes, that their estate is worth three 
 millions sterling (independent of the interest possessed by 
 individuals in existing leases) including rather more than 
 one half of all the land and of all the buildings in the 
 borough ; and that this enormous revenue is chiefly de- 
 voted to local improvements, and the erection of public 
 edifices. Here then is an exemplary proof of what in- 
 dustry, perseverance, and commercial enterprise, aided 
 by public spirit, are capable of accomplishing : this young 
 town is now the emporium of this side of Britain, and 
 the almost rival of its capital, though of more than a 
 thousand years growth. 
 
 Voyage from Liverpool to the Menai Bridge. 
 
 When the traveller, who has visited Liverpool, for 
 the ulterior purpose of proceeding by water to Beaumaris, 
 Bangor, or Caernarvon, has satisfied his curiosity, by a 
 survey of the various objects which that town affords, he 
 will every morning find a fine steamer moored at the Pier 
 Head, ready to receive and waft him across the waters, 
 from the shores of the Mersey to the straits of the Menai. 
 The packets employed on this station are strong vessels, 
 admirably fitted up, and manned with the choicest sea- 
 men ; they are amply furnished with provisions and 
 refreshments suitable for every grade of passengers, and 
 the utmost politeness and civility are enjoined upon both 
 officers and the ship's company. In general, the number 
 of passengers at the cabin end of the vessel is abundantly 
 
VOYAGE TO THE MENAI BRIDGE. 311 
 
 sufficient to form a circle of genteel and agreeable society, 
 and where a group of well-bred people are collected 
 together, whose common object is the pursuit of pleasure, 
 it usually happens, that each is disposed to communicate 
 and receive interchanges of mutual kindness and civility. 
 To render the scene still more exhilarating, a number of 
 musicians constantly occupy the deck, who entertain the 
 company with national, or such other airs as the pas- 
 sengers may require. 
 
 After ascertaining the hour in the morning at which 
 the packet is to sail, it would be advisable for the pas- 
 senger to make it a point to be on board the vessel 
 immediately on its being moored alongside the pier head, 
 not only to avoid the bustle of the crowd, and the adjust- 
 ing of the luggage, but to secure to himself a snug seat 
 for a favourable view of surrounding objects ; and these, 
 even here, are of the most diversified nature. The de- 
 scription of a gentleman, who some time ago took his 
 station on the deck, previous to making this voyage, 
 shall suffice. 
 
 " Spacious and convenient docks, shewing their forests 
 of masts — piers and quays covered with people waiting 
 for embarkation, or attracted by curiosity — with the de- 
 lightful walk along Regent's dock, swarming with loung- 
 ers, and persons seeking health from exercise and pure 
 air, form the foreground of the picture ; behind which 
 are seen, the church of St. Nicholas, with its beautiful 
 lantern top — the dome of the Exchange — of St. Paul's 
 (pigmy resemblance of its giant namesake) — and heaped, 
 seemingly one upon another, immense warehouses, tow- 
 ering in all the pride of commerce. Turning from the 
 busy seat of industry, to the other side of the river, a 
 beautiful shore presents itself, where buildings, fit habi- 
 tations for pleasure, seem rising almost to superfluity on 
 ground once trod by holy feet from Birkenhead's ruined 
 priory ; whilst verdant fields and hanging woods, mixed 
 up with the scene, give an appearance of stillness and 
 quiet. These objects are perhaps, however to the 
 landsman, less interesting than the number of sails in 
 motion, on the surface of the river, from the large India- 
 man to the insignificant boat ; and the many steam ves- 
 sels majestically wending their way, alike regardless of 
 
312 VOYAGE TO THE MENAI BRIDGE. 
 
 the rolling tide or the adverse wind, are at once objects 
 of curiosity, and proofs of the useful application of a 
 power, the full extent of which is as yet but imperfectly 
 known.'' 
 
 All the passengers being safe on board, the luggage 
 conveniently disposed, the vessel unmoored, the steam 
 ascending the high chimney in a thick volume, the pad- 
 dles begin to play, and the cargo is in motion, while the 
 motions of hands and heads from friends on shore and in 
 the vessel, testify an anxious adieu ; the music, in the 
 mean time, sending forth its melodious sounds. On the 
 passage down the Mersey to the bosom of old ocean, the 
 scenery on both sides the river, the Rock Perch, the 
 rocks and caverns called the Red Noses, the several 
 light-houses, the vessels approaching or departing, or 
 gliding on the horizon, the floating-light, the Welsh 
 mountains, and the clear deep green colour of the sea, 
 each become successively the topics of observation and 
 the sources of pleasure. 
 
 On rounding the Rock, as the projecting point on the 
 Cheshire side of the river's mouth is called, the steamer 
 passes a strong fort, erected here a few years ago at the 
 expense of Government, which will undoubtedly be 
 found fully adequate to protect the port ; for, from the 
 course of the channel, an enemy would have to approach 
 so near to this formidable fortress as to bring their ships 
 within the range of its guns. From hence the passage 
 lays in close to the Cheshire shore, the villages and sig- 
 nal stations along which are clearly visible, but present- 
 ing little worthy of notice, although each change of 
 scene in itself affords matter for observation. The float- 
 ing-light, which is a vessel firmly moored at some dis- 
 tance from the shore, containing a beacon lighted at night, 
 to guard vessels from the shoals with which the mouth of 
 the Mersey abounds, may be distinctly seen on a fine 
 day. The Cheshire shore is now soon passed, and the 
 mouth of the Dee crossed, where stands the light-house 
 at the Point of Air, at the extreme head-land of Flint- 
 shire. Here the Welsh scenery begins to open upon the 
 observant passenger, with many miles of the coast thickly 
 studded with country villages and gentlemens' seats — 
 The sea- view is frequently enlivened with vessels gliding 
 
VOYAGE TO THE MENAI BRIDGE. 313 
 
 from the westward, making their way to the great em- 
 porium of commerce. 
 
 In passing onward, the towers of Rhuddlan castle, the 
 village of Abergele, and several other small places on 
 the Welsh coast, appear distinctly in view, and from the 
 time of leaving the Point of Air, that grand object, the 
 Great Ormeshead, is continually kept in sight a-head ; 
 and this high promontory, jutting from the main land, 
 has the appearance of a huge mountain in the sea, a 
 complete island : this, however, is deceptious, as it is 
 connected with the land by a low valley. As just hinted, 
 it is seen on quitting the Cheshire coast, a distance of 
 not less than thirty miles, and is never lost sight of in 
 the intermediate space. It becomes more terrific, how- 
 ever, as it is approached ; and it must be especially so to 
 the mariner cast near its rugged and threatening front in 
 a strong north-west wind. On almost the top of one 
 side of the Ormeshead, and in the midst of pasture which 
 affords a bare picking for a few sheep, a church may be 
 seen surrounded by a small inclosure, and although no 
 habitations are perceptible in its vicinity, it is attended 
 by two or three hundred persons on the sabbath-day from 
 the other side of the hill. Immediately on passing the 
 Head, the river and vale of Conway opens, where a 
 momentary glimpse is obtained of its castle and bridge ; 
 and here it may be remarked, that at this spot the sea is 
 more agitated than in any other part of the voyage. 
 
 After passing the mouth of the Conway, Penmaen- 
 Mawr, the terminating point of the Caernarvonshire 
 mountains, and 1550 feet above the level of the sea, soon 
 appears on the left, bold and rugged as the Ormeshead, 
 but much loftier. Like an ornamented band passing 
 along its front, and a little above its base, is clearly seen 
 the great mail-road between Conway and Bangor. From 
 this point, neither the road, nor the hill itself appears so 
 elevated as they are in reality ; but this may be account- 
 ed for owing to the great distance from the shore, which, 
 although several miles off, appears very near, there being 
 no intermediate objects by which to calculate distances. 
 Puffin Island, or Priestholm, with the east coast of An- 
 glesey behind it, is now right a-head, and the opening of 
 Beaumaris bay a little to the left. The steamer usually 
 
314 VOYAGE TO THE MENAI BRIDGE. 
 
 proceeds in that direction, passing large flights of puffins, 
 and shortly enters that fine bay, with a view of the 
 beautifully situated village of Aber, and Penrhyn castle 
 and its princely hotel, on the left ; Beaumaris, its castle, 
 and Baron hill on the right ; and the town of Bangor, 
 and the Straits of Menai immediately before. And here 
 also is first caught, at about three or four miles in that 
 direction, a view of the Grand Suspension Bridge, the 
 subject of admiration and wonder to thousands of our 
 countrymen. Arrived opposite the town of Beaumaris, 
 the packet is stopped for a few minutes, to give time for 
 the landing of such of the passengers as have reached 
 their intended destination ; when the vessel proceeds on- 
 wards, first to Garth Ferry, where the passengers for 
 Bangor are disembarked, and then to the Suspension 
 Bridge. 
 
 It is now very generally acknowledged, that this trip 
 from the Mersey to the Menai is one of the most pleasant 
 and engaging, besides being fraught with the best accom- 
 modations, and furnishing objects for mental gratification. 
 An intelligent Liverpool gentleman, who has made the 
 voyage, and explored the vicinities of the Menai, thus 
 sums up his sentiments, in his published account of the 
 excursion: — "But the writer of these pages, who has 
 visited many parts of the three kingdoms, cannot refrain 
 stating his decided preference of a trip to the Bay of 
 Beaumaris and the neighbourhood, over any other that 
 can be enjoyed from Liverpool, in proportion to the time 
 required for performing it. In six hours, a party may be 
 placed in the midst of the finest marine scenery of North 
 Wales, and in six days the romantic beauties of Snow- 
 donia's mountains, lakes, and glens, may be visited and 
 explored." 
 
 FINIS. 
 
INDEX 
 
 Abbey of Maenan ... 
 
 Aber ... 
 
 Aberdaron 
 
 Abevdovey ... 
 
 Aberffraw 
 
 Abergele 
 
 Aberystwyth 
 
 Allt Ddu Slate Quarries 
 
 Amlwch 
 
 Acton Park ... 
 
 Bala 
 
 Bangor 
 
 Great Suspension Bridge 
 
 Bangor Iscoed 
 
 Bardsey Island 
 
 Barmouth, or Abermaw 
 
 — c . Excursions from 
 
 Baron Hill, the seat of Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley, Bart.. 
 
 Basingwerk Abbey 
 
 Beaumaris 
 
 — Calamitous Shipwreck at 
 
 Bedd-gelert 
 
 Bettws y Coed ... 
 
 Bodvach, the seat of Lord Mostyn 
 
 Bodysgallen 
 
 Bryn Kinallt, near Chirk 
 
 Burial, Mode of 
 
 Caddy of Cwm-Glas 
 
 Cader Idris 
 
 Ascent to, by Mr. Aikin 
 
 Ditto, by Mr. Warner 
 
 Altitude of 
 
 Caergwrle 
 
 Caernarvon ... 
 
 Caernarvon Castle ... 
 
 ■ Site of the Roman City of Segontium 
 
 Caer Rhun ... 
 Caerwys 
 Capel Curig ... 
 Castell Dinas Bran 
 
 rAGE. 
 
 225 
 31 
 
 33 
 34 
 35 
 36 
 39 
 
 187 
 57 
 
 308 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Cefn-yr-Ogo, or Back of the Cavern 
 
 Cerig y Drudion 
 
 Cerniogau Mawr 
 
 Ceunant Mawr 
 
 Character of the People 
 
 Chester 
 
 Chirk 
 
 Clynnog ... 
 
 Coed Ewloe 
 
 Coeten Arthur, an Antique Monument, near Harlech 
 
 Conway 
 
 Suspension Bridge 
 
 Corwen 
 
 Craig y Mwyn, a great Lead Mine 
 Creiddin, Excursion round 
 
 Cricaeth 
 
 Cromlech at Gwern Einion 
 Cwm Bychan, near Harlech 
 
 Cwm Dyli 
 
 Cwm Llan 
 
 Cwm-orddin Lake ... 
 
 Cynfael, Falls of the 
 
 De Breos, hanged by Llywelyn ... 
 Dee, River, Source of 
 
 Denbigh 
 
 Devil's Bridge 
 
 Mr. Warner's Description of 
 
 Mr. Aikin's ditto ... 
 
 Diganwy 
 
 Dinas Mowddwy 
 
 Dinorwig Slate Quarry 
 
 Diserth 
 
 Dolbadarn 
 
 Dolgellau 
 
 Dolwyddelan Castle 
 
 Downing 
 
 Druidic Circles, near Harlech 
 
 Eaton Hall 
 
 Eccleston, near Chester 
 
 Eisteddvodau, History of 
 
 Account of one held at Caerwys 
 
 Eliseg, Pillar of 
 
 Ewloe Castle 
 
 Falls of the Cynfael 
 
 Ffestiniog 
 
 Rail-road 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Flint 
 
 Garth Ferry, from Bangor 
 
 Singular Character at 
 
 Gloddaeth 
 
 Glossary 
 
 Glyndwr, Owen's House 
 
 Parliament House at Dolgellau 
 
 Glynne, Sir R. S., Family of ... 
 Glyn Rhonwy Slate Quarry 
 
 Golden Grove 
 
 Goronwy Owen, Notice of 
 Gorphwysfa 
 
 Graves, Planting of 
 
 Gresford 
 
 Gronant Moor, Inundation of 
 
 Gwaunynog, near Denbigh 
 
 Gwydir 
 
 Gwrych Castle 
 
 Gwytherin 
 
 Gym 
 
 Hafod 
 
 Mr. Cumberland's Description of 
 
 Hanmer 
 
 Harlech 
 
 Hawarden , 
 
 Hirlas Horn, famous one at Penrhyn Castle 
 
 Holt 
 
 Holyhead ' 
 
 Lighthouse, and other Works at 
 
 Holywell ... 
 
 St. Winifred's Well at ... 
 
 Hope, or Queen's Hope 
 
 Johnes Mr., of Hafod, Character of 
 
 Kilkain 
 
 Kinmel Park 
 
 Kymmer Abbey 
 
 Lake Ogwen 
 
 Language and Literature 
 Liverpool 
 
 Llanasa ... 
 
 Llanberis 
 
 Llandegai 
 
 Llanddulas ., 
 
 Llandudno 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Llanedwyn 199 
 
 Llanelian 200 
 
 Llanerch-y-Medd 201 
 
 Llanervul ib. 
 
 Llanfair (Anglesey) 204 
 
 Llanfair (Montgomery) 205 
 
 Llanfyllin 206 
 
 Llangollen ib. 
 
 Llangynog .. 213 
 
 Llanhaiarn 214 
 
 Llanidan , 215 
 
 Llanidloes 216 
 
 Llanrhaiadr 219 
 
 Llanrhaiadr yn Mochnant 220 
 
 Llanrwst 221 
 
 Llanvaes Abbey 88 
 
 Llynebyr, an Extensive Pool ... ... ... ... 219 
 
 Llyn Eigiau 139 
 
 Llyn Gwvnnant 95 
 
 Llyn Idwal 117 
 
 Llyn Llydan 95 
 
 Llyn Maonod 157 
 
 Llyn Morwynion „. ... ib. 
 
 Llyn y Cwm Bychan, near Harlech 163 
 
 Llyn y Dinas ... ... ... *.. ... ... 94 
 
 Llyn y Dywarchen 96 
 
 Machynlleth 226 
 
 Maen-Tvvrog 228 
 
 Maes Gannon, or Field of Germanus 234 
 
 Mallwyd 231 
 
 Margaret ych Evan, a Singular Character 188 
 
 Marriages among the Welsh 17 
 
 Mawddach, Cataract of the ... ... 150 
 
 Melin Velindre, a Romantic Cataract 219 
 
 Menai Bridge 71 
 
 Mold 232 
 
 Moel Fammau 236 
 
 Moel Guidon 156 
 
 Moel Siabod 114 
 
 Mona Inn 237 
 
 Montgomery ib. 
 
 Mostyn Hall 180 
 
 Mynach, Falls of the 48 
 
 Mynydd y Garreg 180 
 
 Mynydd, or Cefn Digoll 239 
 
 Nannau Park 151 
 
INDEX. V. 
 
 Nant Ffrangcon 116 
 
 Nant Gwynnant 94 
 
 Nevyn 239 
 
 Newborough 240 
 
 Newmarket ib. 
 
 Newtown 242 
 
 Northop 244 
 
 Offa'sDyke 178 235 
 
 Ogwen Bank 198 
 
 Oswestry 246 
 
 Overton 247 
 
 Owen Goch confined by Llywelyn 187 
 
 Parys Mountain, Description of 58 
 
 Penmaen Mawr ... ... ... ... ... ... 248 
 
 Penmon Priory 88 
 
 Penmorfa 252 
 
 Penxnynydd 253 
 
 Pennant Mr., the Antiquary 179 
 
 Penrhyn Castle 193 
 
 Penrhyn, Port of 66 
 
 Pentre 'r Voel-las 253 
 
 Phenomenon, natural, at Harlech Marsh 163 
 
 Pistyll y Rhaiadr 220 
 
 PistyllyCain 151 
 
 Plas Newydd (Anglesey) 254 
 
 Plas Newydd (Llangollen Vale) 208 
 
 Pont-Aberglaslyn 96 
 
 Pont Cysylltau Aqueduct 211 
 
 Pont Fallwyd, Falls of the Dovey at 231 
 
 Pont Porthlwyd 139 
 
 PontyGlyn 256 
 
 Pont y Pair ... 98 
 
 Population of North Wales 21 
 
 Powys Castle 303 
 
 Preliminaries of the Tour 22 
 
 Priestholm, or Puffin Island 89 
 
 Pumlummon Mountain 217 
 
 Pwllheli 257 
 
 Rhaiadr Cwm Dyli ^ 95 
 
 Rhaiadr Du, near Dolgellau 149 
 
 Rhaiadr Mawddach 150 
 
 Rhaiadr Mawr 139 
 
 Rhaiadr y Pare Mawr 224 
 
 Rhaiadr y Wenol 115 225 
 
Rheidiol, Source of ... 218 
 
 Rheidiol, the Falls of 48 
 
 Rhuddlan 258 
 
 Rhyl ... 262 
 
 Rhuabon 263 
 
 Ruthin 267 
 
 Saint Asaph ^ 272 
 
 Saint George, or Llan St. Sior 38 
 
 Severn, the Source of ... ... 218 
 
 Shrewsbury 276 
 
 Sketch of the History of North Wales 1 
 
 Snowdon 280 
 
 Routes from the Ascent 282 
 
 Mr. Pennant's Ascent to ... ... ... ib. 
 
 Mr. Bingley's ditto 285 
 
 Mr. Smith's ditto 2S8 
 
 Stone Causeway projecting into the Sea, near Harlech 164 
 
 Talacre, Seat of Sir Edward Mostyn 181 
 
 Taly Llyn 293 
 
 TanvBwlch 228 
 
 Tower, near Mold 235 
 
 Towyn 295 
 
 Traeth Mawr, recovered from the Sea 299 
 
 Travelling, Mode of ... 23 
 
 Trawsfvnydd 298 
 
 Tremadoc 299 
 
 Tre'r Pryw, Ancient Residence of the Druids ... 215 
 
 Tre y Caeri, or the Town of the Fortresses ... ... 214 
 
 Vale Crucis Abbev 210 
 
 of Clwyd ' 269 
 
 of Llanrwst 223 
 
 Vortigern, Place of his Retreat ... ... ... ... 94 
 
 Voyage from Liverpool to Bangor ... ... ... 310 
 
 Watt's Dvke 178 
 
 Welshpool 301 
 
 Wrexham 305 
 
 Wye, the Source of 218 
 
 Wynnstay ... ... ... . . ... 264 
 
 Ynys Hettws, Cromlech at 191 
 
 Y Vaner, or Kynmer Abbey 151 
 
 CHESTER: PRINTED BY T. GRIFFITH, GROSVENOR-STREET. 
 
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 THE LIBRARY OF THE 
 
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 ENDOWED BY THE 
 
 DIALECTIC AND PHILANTHROPIC 
 
 SOCIETIES 
 
 DA735 
 
 .H48 
 
 1835