THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF NORTH CAROLINA ENDOWED BY THE DIALECTIC AND PHILANTHROPIC SOCIETIES 958.1- 5397-b n ' b B ! * 1 " i » | ^, n I _, * -—J •t* S| on 9 ; 1* P «n S 15 This BOOK may be kept out TWO WEEKS ONLY, and is subject to a fine of FIVE CENTS a day thereafter. It is DUE on the DAY indicated below: F F P .towm*""" Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2011 with funding from University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill http://www.archive.org/details/turkistannotes02schu TUEKISTAN VOL. ii. DERVISHES. {Frontispiece of Vol. II. TUEKISTAN NOTES OF A JOURNEY IN RUSSIAN TURKISTAN, KHOKAND, BUKHARA, AND KULDJA BY EUGENE SCHUYLER, Phil. Dr. KEMBKF. OF THE AMERICAN GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY AND OF THE IJIPEKIAL RUSSIAN GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIEiT, ETC. WITH THREE MAPS AND NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS IN TWO VOLUMES VOL. II. NEW YORK: SCRIBNER, ARMSTRONG 887 YOL. II. a Till CONTENTS OF THE SECOND VOLUME. APPENDICES. PAOK IV. The Kussian Policy regarding Central Asia. An Histobical Sketch. — By Professor V. Grigorief 391 V. Eussia and Khiva 416 INDEX U6 ILLUSTEATIONS THE SECOND VOLUME. Dervishes (by Verestchagin) ..... Seid Mohammed Khudayar, Khan of Khokand {from a photograph) ...... Mozaffar Eddin, Amir of Bukhara {from a photograph) Kirghiz Huts near Aulie-Ata {by Verestchagin) On the Koad to Atjlle-Ata {by Verestchagin) . . Tarantchi Cart {from a photograph) .... A Batcha and his Admirers {by Verestchagin) A Wayside Tomb {by Verestchagin) .... Tarantchi Aksakab and his Attendants at Kuldja {from a photograph) ...... Dungan Women {from a photograph) .... The Sin-Eater {by Verestchagin) .... Pulat, the Arbakesh {by Verestchagin) , , A Barber in Suidun {from a photograph) . . , Ruins of Ili {by Verestchagin) . . Frontispiece To face p, , 25 t> 83 ii it 120 122 91 130 II 133 IJ 138 I* 167 •1 178 ' • 28 ' • 10) • • 161 168 TURKISTAN, CHAPTER IX. KHOKAND. Makhram- -Approach to Khokand — Eeception by the Mekhter — The Atalyk — The palace — The armoury — Breech-loading guns and Berdan rifles — Paper-making — The bazaar — Dull waiting — Restrictions and impositions on Russian merchants — The Khan's idea of a commercial treaty — Yevgraf ■ — In pursuit of the Khan — Utch-Kurgan — Our presentation to the Khan — Country life — Beliefs and superstitions — Andijan — The Khan Zadeh — Ush — Forbidden to go further — Marghi Ian— Return to Tashkent — Sketch of the Khanate — Its government — Heavy taxes — Discontent. In one of the letters I had received from the head-quarters of the Khivan Expedition, I was told that it would perhaps be inadvisable to go to Khokand while Mirza Hakim, the Envoy of that country resident at Tashkent, and the Eussian Diplo- matic Official were away, as possibly I might not be well re- ceived in their absence. This advice, taken in connection with current rumours, made me still more anxious to visit the country ; and as I saw no chance of the speedy return of these gentlemen from the Khivan Expedition — for Khiva had not then been captured — I resolved to go as soon as I could find a favourable opportunity. Such an opportunity offered itself in the proposed visit to that Khanate of Mr. F , a retired Russian officer, living at Hodjent, who wished to buy timber for use in the bridge he was constructing over the Syr Darya. Accordingly, we met at Hodjent, and started off at five o'clock in the evening of June 19 in a tarantas, our horses having being sent on with our jigits and servants to the village of Kastakoz, as we were VOL. II. B 2 TURKISTAN. desirous of postponing till the last minute what we knew would he a wearisome horseback journey over a hot and dusty road. Passing the little village of Ispisar, we soon reached Kastakoz, about eleven miles from Hodjent, where we had supper, and passed the night on the terrace in a large court- yard of a native merchant. We had in our party Abdullah, a young Tartar, the inter- preter of Mr. F , and my own interpreter Andrei, an active, trustworthy, and courageous young Russian, who had been in this part of the country since he was twelve years old, and spoke Turki and Kirghiz perfectly, and who, being dressed in semi-Tartar costume, was usually taken for a Mussulman. There were besides a rich Hodjent merchant, Haba Bai, acting as Mr. F 's agent, and three jig Us. We each had a cart for luggage, since in travelling in these countries one must take beds and mattresses, as well as baths, and other necessary articles. We left Kastakoz at 5.45 next morning on horseback, and after travelling over a stony plain, destitute of water and verdure, we stopped for a short time to rest at the village of Karatch-Kum, ' the robber sands,' just across the Khokandian boundary. There are about a hundred families only living in this village, but as it was market-day, the bazaar was full. We drank tea and ate melons in a little court of the Yuzbashi, or centurion, while he sent a messenger to Makhram, four miles on, to announce our arrival, and we soon after started ourselves for that village, seventeen miles in all from Kastakoz. Makhram is a large square fort, with high crenelated mud walls, standing on the steep bank of the Syr Darya, the other three sides being protected by a deep moat, then dry. To reach the little bazaar, opposite the sole entrance, which is on the eastern side, we had to make the circuit of the moat, keeping close to it to avoid the irrigating canals and culti- vated land. Though we had letters to the Khan, and had thus a right to official hospitality, we preferred to stop for our nooning at a tea-house, in the almost deserted bazaar, the only bazaar day there being Saturday. The sun was intensely hot, and I was glad to scramble down the steep bank of the river at the end of the street, and take a bath in the muddy water. We improvised an awning, MAKIIILYM. 3 but a crowd of inquisitive spectators followed our every movement. Presently the adjutant of the Bek came to us, ac- companied by two men with long- wands, to learn who we were, and whither we were going. Having been informed that we were going to Khokand to see the Khan, they departed, and soon after returned with a dostar-khan, the merit of which was a tray of fresh ripe apricots. We then sent a small present to the Bek, excused ourselves on account of fatigue for omitting to visit him, and soon received in return a cheap silk gown. Makhram, as the frontier fortress of Khokand, is a place of some importance, and has a constant garrison of 500 men. Some of these soldiers came to look at us : among them one with a blue coat and red trowsers, another with a green coat over a long white native shirt, and a small boy, a fifer, in a blue jacket covered with brass buttons put on over his native gown. Little did I then expect that these resting-places of ours were in two years' time to be the scenes of battles, in a war too begun, not by the Russians, but by the Khokandians. At four o'clock we started off for Kandbaclam x — celebrated of old for its almonds, which give it its name — making the eighteen miles by seven o'clock. The latter portion of the road was very pretty, shut in by gardens without end. Passing at length between high clay walls, shaded by numerous trees, and necked with golden spots from the setting sun, we came to a tea-house in the bazaar, by the side of an ill-smelling pond. I was too tired to eat, and amused myself by tossing apricots and almonds to the crowd of boys who nocked from all parts of the bazaar to gaze on the foreigners. This was almost my first experience of horseback travelling ; and as I had had but very little practice in Tashkent, and had scarcely been on a horse for two years before, I ached all over, and rubbed myself well with whisky, lest the next day I shoidd be too stiff to move. It was a new thing for me to live thus in public, as I was compelled to do during nearly my whole 1 Even Ye-lu Tch'u-ts'ai, when travelling 'with Tchinghiz Khan, speaks of this : ' Around the city of Ba-lan (the Cbinese equivalent of the Persian bad am, almond) there are everywhere ba-lan gardens; hence the name. The blossoms of the ba-lan tree resemble those of the apricot, only they are a little paler. The leaves are like the leaves of the peach tree, but a little narrower and smaller. The blossoms appear in winter, the fruits ripen in summer.' 4 TURKISTAJS. journey; but our beds being spread in the open verandah, I soon fell asleep, disturbed somewhat by the noisome odour of the pond. I woke up the next morning feeling much better than I had anticipated, and we started at five o'clock, just as people were beginning to appear in the bazaar. The town is one of considerable size, and contains several mosques, one of which is handsomely built of burned brick. The view on leaving the town was at first very fine, with snowy mountains visible on the right, and other ranges appearing on the left ; but we soon came to a large stony plain, about ten miles across, covered with shifting sands, which are constantly encroaching on the cultivated fields bordering the river. In the middle of this waste is a small village, called Patar, built of clay houses, without trees or the slightest sign of verdure, and seemingly deserted. Coming again into a cultivated country, and passing through the pretty village of Yaka Tut (one mulberry tree), at nine o'clock we reached the village of Bish-aryk (five canals) : stopping at a tea shop, we rested during the heat of the day, but tried in vain to sleep. The bazaar here was built by Khudayar Khan and has regular narrow streets crossing each other at right angles, but the market-day being Monday there was then no animation. As we had a long ride before us, and wished to get to Khokand before the gates were shut for the night, we were compelled to leave at two o'clock, in spite of the heat. Fortunately we found some shade from the trees by the roadside, and came once in a while to a village where we could quench our tormenting thirst with a bowl of green tea or a juicy fruit. At last we crossed a bridge over a large deep canal, traversed a dyke through fields of rice, the young shoots of which were then of a tender green, and gradually entered a more thickly settled country, with enclosures on each side, and now and then houses and shops, meeting at every step people coming from the town. We soon saw in front of us, beyond the gardens, a long clay wall, seeming fully two miles in length, and in the middle, at the end of our road, a semicircular outwork of even height with buttressed and crenelated wall. Passing round this breastwork to the angle of the wall, we entered the gate of Khokand. AKRIVAL AT KHOKAND. 5 Inside, the view did not much change. There were the same fields and scattered houses, and it was not for some time after passing cemeteries and gardens that we came on a broad inhabited street. Trotting along as fast as I could, for I had dropped much behind the main party, we followed the street which led to the centre of the town, and passing the large Medresse Khan, we turned to the right over a well-built brick bridge, and were almost at once in the baaaar. We fortunately reached the Zekat Sarai just before its doors closed for the night, and were received with kind hospitality by Mr. S , a Eussian merchant, agent of the firm of Pupyshef, the most important trading house in Central Asia. Although his rooms were small, the verandah was large, so that we had space enough. The Zekat Sarai, a large two-storey building surrounding a square court in which our host had six or eight rooms and storehouses, is properly the custom house of the city, being the place where the official business of the Zekat or customs is carried on, and where goods are stored until they have paid the customs' duties. The chief customs' officer, the Mekhter, usually spends the day there, from seven in the morning until five o'clock in the afternoon, seated with his attendants and officials in the verandah opposite to us, where he transacts all the business, and all day long we were able to see goods weighed and measured, and notes and records of various accounts jotted down by the chief scribe on long rolls of narrow paper. The next day, on finding that we had arrived, the Mekhter sent for us, and accordingly about nine o'clock we presented ourselves. When he saw us coming he put on a flowered chintz robe, and rearranged the folds of his turban, so as to be quite ready for us. He was an old man of about sixty, with a grey beard and sharp twinkling eyes, kind in manner, but not very remarkable for intelligence, and, from all I hear, of more sharp- ness than probity ; at all events, he is very carefully watched by two subordinates, thus having a double sort of inspection over him. He received us very cordially, shook hands, asked us to sit down, ordered some bread, cucumbers, apricots, melons, and tea to be brought in, and asked us why we came. Mr. F gave him an official letter from Tashkent, and stated his business in general terms. I told him that I had 6 TURKISTAN. brought a letter to the Khan from General Kolpakofsky, the acting Grovernor-Greneral, and that as I understood the Khan was not in Khokand, but had gone to Namangan, I desired to go there, to deliver it in person, and added that my object in coming to Khokand was to travel through the country and learn something of its people. He thought I had better give him the letter, which I refused to* do, on the ground that I ought to deliver it person- ally to the Khan. He then told us we must stop there two days until he could have an answer from the Khan, as he had already sent to inform him of our arrival. He objected to sending us on immediately, from fear lest the Khan might be angry with him, professing to have no powers for such an emergency. Mr. F spoke of the bridge which he was building at Hodjent, and laughingly said, that if they had bridges to build in Khokand he would always be ready to construct them ; upon which the old man brightened up, and said they had excellent workmen for such purposes, and were perfectly capable of do- ing their own work. He then enumerated certain articles which were excellently made in Khokand, referred especially to rifles, which he said were as well manufactured there as they were at any place abroad, and showed us one or two trays of ordinary Kussian manufacture, which he at first tried to pass off as being of Khokandian fabrication, but afterwards ad- mitted to be of foreign work, insisting at the same time that the native productions were much superior in point of durability and taste. As soon as we returned to our own verandah, the Mekhter sent a writer to take down accurately our names and our business, and to know from whom were our letters to the Khan, and subsequently sent again to inspect the letters themselves, although without breaking the seals, in order that he might assure himself of their existence. I had heard in Tashkent that the diplomatic affairs with the Khanate of Khokand, except in cases of letters addressed per- sonally by the Grovernor-Greneral to the Khan, were always con- ducted through the Mekhter, and as Mr. F— ■ — - had been in- structed to carry on his business through him, we naturally regarded him as something in the nature of a Minister of THE MEKHTER. 7 Foreign Affaire ; but to our great surprise we found he was a person of very inferior rank, being simply the overseer of the Customs, and that he had not the right of free entry into the Khan's presence, and could do nothing in our matter without consulting the Atalyk and the council which had been left there in the Khan's absence. The Mekhter, Mullah Mir- Kamil, had the rank of Merakhor, the seventh in the official hierarchy. 1 The word * Mekhter ' itself means ' steward.' Although he had charge of the customs ' duties, he was not in any way a Finance Minister, as he had no part in the collection of the haradj or tanap duties, or of the other receipts, such as rents, &c, and merely paid the money he received directly over to the Khan. Besides this, as I have said, two persons watched him and controlled him to keep him from cheating. About six o'clock that evening: a messenger came to us from the Mekhter, bringing a box of sugar-candy, a pound of coarse tea, and a tilla in silver (9s.), as something towards our travelling expenses. We were of course, according to the custom of these countries, the guests of the Khan, but the Mekhter was evidently desirous of letting his master off as cheaply as he could, and did not even offer us a place in which to live, taking it for granted, as he said afterwards, that we preferred to stay at the caravanserai. As I had made up my mind to follow in all things the customs of the country, and had been particularly told that I must both give and receive pre- sents, I accepted what was sent. The messenger told us that the Mekhter was very desirous of seeing us at his house, and thought it very strange that we had not been there. To this 1 The higher official ranks in Khokand are as follows: - 1. Atalyk, the highest military officer. There is only one, — Ata Bek, who is also one of the five Naibs or lieutenants. 2. Kvsh Bcgi (fowler), the corresponding civil grade, at present unfilled. 3. Parmanatchi, general (from Tadjik parman, Pers. ferman, firman, order). 4. Datlchah, colonel. 5. Pansat Bashi, commander of five Inmdred. 6. Taksaba (vessel filler), captain. 7. Merakhor, equerry. 8. Karaul Bcgi, guard commander. Yus Bashi, centurion. 9. Mirza Bashi, chief scribe. The former high office of Ming Bashi, or commander of a thousand, has beeE abolished. 8 TUKKISTAN. we replied that the Mekhter had never invited us to his house, and that as he had preferred, contrary to all propriety, to receive us at his place of business, we did not desire to intrude upon him at his residence. We said further, that if he really wished it, we should be glad to visit him, and asked when we should go. The messenger replied that the Mekhter was then busy, but would be glad to receive us at seven o'clock the next morning. We rose at an early hour, and were on the point of start- ing, when another messenger came from the Mekhter asking us to hasten, as his master had been waiting for us a long time : it was then only half past six o'clock. We immediately jumped on our horses, and rode quite through the town to the Mekhter's residence. We were shown through two spacious courts surrounded by broad verandahs and were introduced into a large room where the Mekhter was seated with other officials Shaking hands with us without rising he requested us to go into the next room, where he would immediately join us. This was a large hall, the walls of which were covered with arabesques and with rude paintings of bouquets and of flowers growing in pots, while the beams of the wooden ceiling were carved and de- corated, the intervals between them being filled with small round pieces of willow wood, painted with red and gold arabesques, on an ultramarine blue ground. The floor was well covered with rugs and cushions, and the general effect was pretty. The Mekhter with his attendants soon came in, and after the usual greetings and commonplaces, sent us a dostar-khan, and excused himself for a short time. Several of his officials remained, and immediately asked us in a tone of reproach why we had come thus early, as we had disturbed the Mekhter's sleep by this un- expected visit. We explained the summons which we had twice received, whereupon the officials denied that any mes- senger had been sent, or that any person had authority to make such statements. Of course this was a lie, and a very gratuitous one, for no one would have dared to bring us such a message from the Mekhter, without being authorised to do so. We then sent out to the Mekhter the presents we had brought for him, I giving a piece of satin for a gown, and Mr. F a silver cup, pieces of cloth and other articles, amount- ing in all to a large sum, for the Mekhter's influence was deemed very essential to the success of the timber contract. In return THE ATALYK. 9 a cheap silk gown was put on our shoulders and we retired, net however before we had asked the Mekhter if it would be possible for us to see the Atalyk. He told us that he thought the Atalyk would be disposed to see us, and that he would endeavour to make arrangements to that effect. It was not until the last day of our stay, however, that we received a message from the Mekhter, that the Atalyk would see us. In the meantime we had made the Atalyk's acquaintance by ourselves, and had been most hospitably received by him ; for on my return home I thought it best to send my inter- preter to the Atalyk, with apologies for not having come to him at once, and with a request for an interview. The visit was fixed for the next morning. At seven the next morning we rode out to the urda or fortress, situated in the north-east part of the city, on low ground, and after going through a guard- room under the vaulted entrance, and then to the left through a group of soldiers, we were shown into a plain reception room with whitened walls, and with a European grate in the fireplace. It was apparently used for a storeroom as well, for robes and other articles made up into parcels were lying on the shelves. Arm chairs and stools covered with red cloth were placed for us, and the Atalyk Ata Bek presently entered, a small thin old man, with a white beard, and a very gentle pleasant face. He had been commandant at Pishpek, and had surrendered that fort to Colonel Zimmermann, and subsequently (at his own request, I believe, to escape the wrath of the Khan) he had lived for three years as a prisoner of war at Vierny and at Omsk. After the Khan, he is now the most important man in Khokand, and as he knows and respects the Kussians, he gives his master much sensible advice, and restrains him from rash and headlong acts. 1 It is a strange proof of how little the Kussians know of their neighbours, that in Tashkent the Atalyk was supposed to be living in disgrace, and I was therefore astonished to find him the Regent of the city. I apologised as well as I could for not having brought him a letter from General Kolpakofsky, who knew him well, and who had sent a verbal message to him in case I should meet him. Ata Bek seemed very intelligent 1 This chapter was written in 1873, and all statements must be considered as referring to that time. On the revolution in Khokand in 1875 Ata-Bek followed his master in his flight to Tashkent. 10 TUEKISTAN. and well informed, made many inquiries about America, show- ing that he had some elementary knowledge of geography, and we had for some time a pleasant' conversation. He told us we should be obliged to wait for the pleasure of the Khan to be known before we could continue our journey, asked us if the Mekhter were doing everything for us that we wished, and was seemingly astonished to learn that he had not offered us a house in which to live. During the dostar-khan, the Atalyk excused himself, and on coming back sent a man to show us the fortress. This is a new citadel or urcla, 1 which has been built within the last twenty years ; the old one, which occupied a much better position, having been abandoned. It might be of some use for the protection of the person of the Khan, in case of an emeute in the city, but would certainly not stand against an invading army. It is a large rectangular construction, with high clay walls, containing several small courts and numerous buildings. At the further extremity, beyond the large court, is the new palace, much larger and more magnificent than any other in Central Asia,— a fine building of two or three stories high, with towers at the corners and two in the centre, the whole front faced with glazed tiles, white, blue, and green, and a large inscription — 'Built by Seid Mohammed Khudayar Khan, in the year 1287 ' — running along the cornices. I was not allowed to enter the palace owing to the absence of the Khan, and to the presence there of many of his wives, and could only see the facade for a few moments from the end of the courts. Among the various buildings through which we passed was the Mint, but the workmen were manufacturing, not money, but silver ornaments for bridles and harness, and we were in- formed that the mint-master was also court jeweller, and did any little jobs in silver or gold work that were required by the Khan. In another room was a cannon foundry ; several guns were already cast and were being finally finished. The largest piece, which was then occupying the chief attention, was a twelve- pounder breech-loading gun, the mechanism of the breech being constructed after a Kussian pattern improved by native work- 1 The vroxd urcla is chiefly used in the countries on the right bank of the Syi Darya, for what, in Bukhara, is called ark, meaning citadel or kremlin. MAKING BREECH-LOADING ARMS. 11 men. The most singular tiling was that the gun was not rifled, and was far larger at the mouth than at the breech. Other guns, some of them rifled, were lying on the floor, and near them the large spherical balls used there, for the new artillery system had not been thoroughly learned. Another room of the armoury was devoted to the manufacturing of Berdan rifles. It seems that two rifles had been bought or stolen from Eussian soldiers and taken to Khokand, where they served as patterns, and for the preceding four months the whole force of the armoury had been working at these rifles, and had succeeded in nearly finishing four of them. The imitation was tolerably good, and the mechanism, although rough and loose in the joints, worked fairly, but the barrel was not rifled, and I should think that there would be considerable difficulty in manufactur- ing the cartridges. These rifles were handed to me for inspec- tion, on which I expressed my great pleasure at finding the men able to do such remarkably good work, and promised to inform the inventor of the adoption of his system by the Khokand government. The workmen here do not receive any regular wages, but are usually given their food and from time to time a cotton gown. In some cases the labour is compulsory, and without any remuneration whatever. In the smithy men were engaged in boring musket barrels on a most primitive plan. The borer was fastened to the centre of a large mill-stone, which was kept in rapid movement by two men ; the musket barrel, fastened to a block of wood and kept in its groove by means of wedges, was pushed against the borer by a crowbar in the hands of a lad. It was with some little nervousness that I visited this armoury, for in the next room to the smithy — with the sparks liable to come in at any time through the half-open door — men were engaged in manufacturing and filling rockets, the powder lying loosely on the table. The rockets seemed very fair. Eeturning again to the reception room, we bid the Atalyk good-bye and received the usual robes of honour. Khokand is a modern town, not more than a hundred years old, and therefore has wider streets, and is more spacious than most Asiatic towns. It is nearly square in form, and contains I am told 500 mosques, which, with the average of thirty houses to each parish, would give a population of 75,000, — as it seems 12 riTRKISTAN. to me a fair estimate, although many more inhabitants could be accommodated within the walls of the town. From the roof of the caravanserai we may see the whole city spread out before us, and not only the city but the Khanate as well. Immediately around us are the broad flat clay roofs of the bazaar, most of the streets even being covered, so as to allow an easy promenade from one end to the other. Near by, to the left, is a group of mosques and medresses built of reddish grey "brick, with high melon-shaped domes, the cornices covered with blue and white tiles, forming texts from the Koran. In front is the brick bridge of Kish-kupriuk, with its bold arch over the little stream which divides the city, while above it stands out the large medresse Khan. To the left are the beau- tiful facade and portal of the Khan's palace, glittering in all the brightness of its fresh tiles, blue, yellow, and green, for it has but lately been built. Everywhere around are clay roofs, half hidden in luxuriant verdure, and surrounding all the brilliant green of the gardens and orchards. Owing to the flatness of the ground, the town has not the picturesqueness of Tashkent, but this defect is more than made up by the superb mountain view. To the west and south-west are the low hills near Hodjent, to the north the high Tchatkal mountains, while on the east and south rises the magnificent snow-covered range of the Alai, the very boundaries of the Khanate. We see that we are in the midst of the small but charming valley of Fergana, and were we but a few feet higher we could see its life-stream, the Syr Darya. In my rides through the town I managed to see most of it, and nearly all that was interesting, although riding was particularly uncomfortable on account of the heat, for we were obliged to be at home by seven o'clock in the evening when the bazaar was closed, and thus of course lost the pleasantest time of the day. Besides that, I was constantly insulted and abused, although I was not attacked, and the necessity of being con- stantly on my guard destroyed to some extent the pleasure of sight-seeing. In a large square open place at the edge of the bazaar, where fruit is sold all day long, are two large medresses, well built of burnt brick picked out at times with blue tiles, and surmounted by domes and small blue turrets. One is called PAPER MANUFACTURE. 13 Ali, and was built by Mussulman Kul. The other which is not yet finished was begun by Sultan Murad Bek, the brother of the Khan, in fulfilment of some vow. Near the bridge, of which I have already spoken, is the spacious medresse Khan, built by Madali Khan, containing rooms for 200 Mullahs. It was, however, never completed according to the original design. In the eastern part of the city is the medresse Mir, built by Narbuta Bii about eighty years ago, and close by is a large cemetery, with a primary school connected with its mosque, where I stopped on one occasion and spent a pleasant half-hour chatting with the Mullahs, who, although they saw that I was a stranger, were very kind and polite. I had come there to see the monument erected for the wife of Madali Khan, on which were written the celebrated and frequently quoted verses : Makshar kuni karam diram ul sarvi kommati Har anda kham kurunmasa kil kur kiyuviati. I hope to see at the Resurrection Her of lovely slender form ; If I do not see her then, Go look after the judgment. I found, however, that this monument had been destroyed by the Amir Mozaffar Eddin, when he occupied Khokand, on the ground that it was improper thus to honour a woman. One of the greatest curiosities in Khokand is the paper manufactory, situated just outside of the Minyatchu-vorak. Most, if not all, of the paper used in Central Asia is manu- factured either here or at the little village of Tcharku, also in Khokand. The rags are alternately pounded and macerated until they are reduced to a thick pulp, which is then collected into a round ball. Portions of this are then placed in a tub of water and well mixed together. The paper-maker takes an oblong sieve made of thin grass stretched over a wooden frame, and puts into it a certain quantity of the pulp, shaking and inclin- ing it until it is equally distributed over the surface. After allow- ing it to stand a few moments he turns it out on a board. In this way one man can make about 300 leaves per day, which are placed one on the other with layers of felt between, and sub- mitted to a heavy pressure to squeeze out the moisture. In the morning they are taken out and hung for drying on a wall exposed to the south. The sizing and polishing is done in the 14 TUKKISTAN. bazaar by a different set of workmen. The size usually em- ployed is a kind of dextrine found nearly pure in the roots of the Shirash, a plant of the lily family, and the polishing- is made by rubbing it with a smooth and heavy stone. By this process the value of the paper is nearly doubled (from fifteen to twenty or thirty kopeks a sheet). Imperfect paper is, however, never thrown away, for at the time of sizing holes or fissures are patched up with thin strips, and the surface is made so even that defects can only be dis- covered by holding the sheet up to the light. This paper, which is usually grey, although sometimes coloured pink and blue, is very firm and tough, and excellent for the gummy ink with which the natives write. For the purposes of Europeans it is of little use, and the Russians have to import all the paper that they require. The chief bazaar at Khokand is by far the best built that I saw in Central Asia, — very regular, with all the streets crossing one another at right angles, and with many of the shops built of burned brick. The streets are wide, and the whole is covered by a roof supported on timbers high up above the houses, so that the bazaar itself is shaded, while yet plenty of fresh air comes in at the sides. Since a fire about two years ago a portion of the bazaar has been reconstructed in even a better way. There are two bazaar days in the week, Thursday and Sunday. The trade seems to be very large. The bazaars in Khokand, — as in most other cities of the Khanate, — belong to the Khan himself, who a few years ago took possession of them, and receives the rents himself. Some he bought, paying but a small proportion of their real value, while others he simply seized, telling the owners that they had enjoyed them long enough, and that now he in- tended to have some profit out of them. The revenues from these are by no means small ; for instance, the Cocoon Sarai brings in 1,800 tillas (810/.) although it is used only for the six or seven weeks when cocoons are in the market ; and the rooms of the Zekat Sarai, where I stayed, are rented out for 200 tillas (90L) a year. This of course will be of great ad- vantage to th® Russians whenever they take possession of Khokand, as the revenues of the bazaars will at once become government property, while in mc^t towns captured by the GOITKE. 15 Eussians, as in Tashkent and Hodjent, the revenues belong to private persons, or are secured by vaqf to some religious or charitable purpose. As I lived in the middle of the bazaar, I had frequent opportunities of lounging in it and of seeing the various trades that were carried on there ; but there was nothing new or different from that in Tashkent, nor were the goods sold better in quality, with the exception perhaps of riding-whips, of which an excellent quality is made at Khokand and sold very cheaply. I was greatly struck with the prevalence of goitre, and it seemed to me as if every third merchant was afflicted with this disagreeable malady. Whether it has anything to do with the use of snow water, I cannot say, but in fact the streams flowing through the city are formed by the melting of glaciers, although at distances of many miles. This was the only town in which I noticed this disease, but I am told that it is also very prevalent in Kashgar and Yarkand. The structure of the bazaar renders it necessary to take extra precautions against fire and robbers, and the bazaar is closed every night at seven o'clock and patrolled by a guard of soldiers. The parade of this guard was always an amusing spectacle. The different bodies of troops were marched up to take their positions at certain places, and the two fire-engines were brought out ; one of Eussian work, and the other a clumsy native imitation. There are about 12,000 troops in Khokand, all under very lax discipline. In the companies I saw hardly two men were dressed alike, or armed in the same way. Some had sticks, some rifles or flint-lock muskets, or more generally match-locks, while some had nothing but the native club, the round brass head of which was fastened on by a joint. The officers, besides their belts and swords, had wands of command. Some soldiers were in native dress, some wore a mixture of native and Eussian, but the regular uniform seemed to be a loose jacket and trowsers, the colour being apparently at the option of the wearer, and the number and arrangement of the buttons being also left to his taste. The buttons were all European, and there were few more acceptable presents to the Khan than an assortment of buttons. Many were plain, but most of them were old Eussian military buttons, with not a few French, 16 TUKillSTAN. German, and even English, which had probably come up from India. The words of command showed that some of the in- structors had been trained in India, and others in Kussia. Three particularly struck me : ' slushed na karaul ' (the Eussian for ' attention '), ' carry arms,' and ' ardja (order) arms.' When robbers are caught, they are severely punished ; for the first offence losing one hand, and for renewed or aggravated offences being liable to summary execution. When a criminal is to be put to death, — and executions are very frequent there, — he is taken through the streets of the bazaar, the executioner following behind him, while the crowd hoot and pelt him with stones. Suddenly, without a word of warning, when the ex- ecutioner thinks the spectacle has lasted long enough, he seizes him by the head, thrusts the knife into his throat and cuts it, and the body sinks to the ground, where it is left for some hours before it is carried away and the blood is covered with sand. I just missed an execution of this kind, for three persons had thus suffered only a day or two before my arrival, and shortly after I had finally left Khokand, the various rebels caught in the recent insurrection were put to death, when the bazaar literally streamed with blood, which even trickled into the Sarai where I had stayed. More than five hundred persons were then executed. Besides throat-cutting, hanging is not an infrequent punish- ment, especially in the smaller towns, and criminals are some- times buried alive, or, what is still more frightful, are impaled. In impaling, the victim is sometimes tied to a cart, with his legs fastened to the shafts, while the stake is fastened to another cart, and then thrust into him with great violence, after which it is stuck into the ground. At other times, the man is more gently placed on the top of a pointed stake, which has already been erected, and it is then the duty of each passer- by to give his legs a pull. In this way the prisoner may live in agony for a day or two. This closing of the bazaar at such an early hour was one of my greatest trials, as it confined us to the close and some- times ill-smelling court of the Sarai during the coolest and pleasantest time of the day ; and we were even prevented from leaving the Zekat Sarai and going round the corner to the Khan Sarai, where the other Russian merchants were living. We COMMERCIAL TREATIES. 17 could, it is true, go for a little while on the roof, but as soon as the guards were in full force we were not allowed to remain there. The Eussians then in Khokand were chiefly agents and clerks of the two houses of Pupyshef, and of the firms of Bykofsky and Kolesnikof. The chief business consists in importing cloths and printed calicoes from Russia, and in purchasing with them silk and cotton, the staple articles of export. It is very often the rase that merchants are obliged to sell prints in Khokand and Bukhara at the prices quoted in Moscow, or even less, thus losing all the expenses of transport, in the hopes of recovering themselves by buying silk and cotton at low prices, and by selling them at a great advance, and also by quickly turning over the money embarked in such a way as to save some months of in- terest by repaying the manufacturers of the prints before the time of credit expires, and then obtaining another consignment, or by having the use of the money in the meantime. Commercial treaties, it is true, exist now with all the Central Asiatic States, but the rulers know little what they mean, and care less ; and the position of the Russian traders is at all times disagreeable, if not dangerous. It is for instance stated in the treaty with Khokand that no exports from that country shall pay more than 2\ per cent., or a 40th part, as a zekat, or duty, — it having formerly been the custom to charge Christians double what was paid by Mussulmans, — and that no other taxes or trade should be imposed. In spite of this, however, the merchants in Khokand were obliged to pay in addition an export duty of half a tilla (4s. 6d.) per camel load of cotton of 576 lbs., amounting to nearly 3 per cent, more, and at one time the Mekhter even insisted on a smaller camel load paying the same sum. This, however, he was forced to change. The merchants naturally sent a petition to the government at Tashkent with regard to the unlawful cotton duty, and General Kaufmann sent a letter of remonstrance to the Khan, who in reply made no reference whatever to the stipulations of the treaty, but said : ' Four or five years ago, when, by order of my brother the Governor-General Colonel Schaufuss came as our guest, he gave me a petition from His Excellency with regard to cotton, and I, out of respect and a desire to please my brother the Governor-General, accepted his petition, and VOL. II. C 18 TUEKISTAN. reduced the duty from 60 tengas to half a tilla, and from that time a duty of half a tilla from each camel load has become habit zial with respect to both Eussian and Mussulman merchants. Between the Eussian and the Mussulman merchants there ib no difference. With reference to the former, by my orders the Mekhter, Mullah Mir-Kamil, shows them in every case attention and magnanimity. I do not know what would happen if I were to put an end to the custom which has existed so many years between us and the Russians, since in every state there are many regulations of such a kind. You, as an educated man, ought to know better than anvone else the customs and regulations of every country.' Although this amusingly evasive answer, — which considered the commercial treaty as a petition which he had deigned to grant, — had been returned to the Eussians the preceding year, they had taken no steps at the time of my visit to bring about a better state of things. In order to avoid insult, and even injury, the Eussian traders, when in the streets, were accustomed to wear the native dress. They were not allowed to live in any part of the town they chose, but were restricted to the Sarais of the bazaars, and were unable to mix freely with the natives. The native merchants were forbidden by the Khan to invite the Eussians to their houses ; and on one occasion, when a Eussian merchant invited several native customers to dinner, the act was viewed with extreme displeasure by the Khokand authorities. I can- not help thinking that a different state of things would exist were these foreign traders either English or Americans. They certainly would not be willing to live cooped up in small un- comfortable apartments deprived of all the comforts of life, to say nothing of luxuries, such as postal communications. The native governments have strenuously objected to the establish- ment of postal routes within their territories, and unless a letter from Tashkent be brought by a special messenger, it. must be sent by some native, who may for days forget it, or who simply in passing throws it in at the door, usually in a mutilated state, as it has generally been opened by the frontier or the city authorities. It was difficult for me to believe, until I saw it with my own eyes, and it is difficult for Eussians to believe that the Eussian Government, which claims to be in Central Asia for the advantage of trade, and which gave out that Khokand was a SITUATION OF THE MERCHANTS. 19 vassal state, accorded so little protection to its merchants, and lias such meagre information, even in Tashkent, about the state of the country. It was natural to think that the Eussians maintained in Khokand an accredited commercial agent, about whom the merchants would naturally group themselves. Such an agent would be protected either by a guard of Cossacks, or by the influence of the Home Government, and he would gradually produce a compliance by the native government with every demand of the Eussian authorities. But nothing similar to the English Eesidents in the native Indian states existed here. The Eussians had no agent either secret or otherwise in Khokand ; the diplomatic relations are kept up by the Khokandian envoy, Mirza Hakim, resident at Tashkent, a man who enjoyed but to a limited extent the confidence of his sovereign, and who was universally looked down upon and suspected by his countrymen, and by the Eussian diplomatic employ ^,also residing in Tashkent. This agent once in two or three years made a short trip to Khokand, where as the official guest of the Government, he was surrounded with spies, occupied with dostar-khans, and the exchange of presents, and was unable to ascertain the real state of the country, and according to per- sistent, if not well founded, rumours was in the pay of the Khan. ! The merchants complained that in general they were treated with discourtesy, and that their representations and statements were disbelieved, if they conflicted with the official theories which guide the politic? of Tashkent. At the Zekat Sarai we had one frequent guest whose con- versation furnished us with unfailing amusement and instruction. This was a Eussian refugee, whose history had been most singular. Mina Yevgrafef Gretchenko (commonly called Yevgraf) was a Cossack from Novotcherkask, and had served in the Caucasus as well as in the Imperial Guard, but for some reason or other had been sent to serve at Omsk in Siberia. According to his story he 1 At Tashkent and Samarkand there was in this connection much talk of wagon-loads of presents, of large sums of money, and of the payment of losses at cards. Captain Terentief, in his Russia and England in Central Asia ' (St. Petersburg, 1875), p. 332, says: 'The Khan of Khokand. among other things, gave Mr. Struve the rank of taksaba — field-marshal of the armies of Khokand — and bestowed upon him a velvet uniform with gold epaulets set with pearls and precious stones. They say also that the taksaba receives the revenues of a grant of land.' Full details of all these things were told to me in Khokand. c 2 20 TUEKISTAN. bad a slight difficulty with a comrade over cards, in which he threw a bottle at him, and left him either dead or severely injured. He therefore thought it best to decamp, arid having plenty of friends who furnished him with facilities to do so, he was provided with a number of false passports and various changes of dress, and gradually worked his way to Ar khan gel, arriving there the very day the last steamer for England had gone. Finding himself under suspicion at that place, he returned down the Ural, and came to Petropavlovsk after many narrow escapes. The first day at Petropavlovsk he met an acquaintance from Omsk, and fearing recognition, and having no alternative, went over the steppe to Turkistan and offered to enter into the Khokandian service. Indeed there was nothing else to be done ; and in addition the poor man was forced to become a Mussulman, taking the name of Suleiman Kul. This was more than twenty years ago. He married, at first, the daughter of a Eussian prisoner, and it is said that love for her had something to do with his original flight to the country. He has served in various branches of the service, has been in nearly all the fights against the Russians, and is now a Yuz-bashi, or centurion, in the artillery. On the death of his first wife he married a native, and lives entirely in the native way. He is, however, but a skin-deep Mussulman, and has remained a thorough Russian patriot, and would be delighted to return, if even for a day, to Russian dominions. He could do so by calling himself a Tartar, but he has friends living in Russia, and does not like to go bick to them in that way. He wishes to return as a Russian and a Christian, with his past wiped out. He still speaks and reads Russian with fluency, in spite of his long exile, and is as shrewd and observing a man as one cares to meet, thoroughly acquainted with all that is going on in the country, and might be of great service to the Russians, if they knew how to use him. 1 On Wednesday, June 25, the Mekhter finally sent word that the answer of the Khan had come, and that we could now go on and join him at Namangan. 1 In 1875 Yevgraf saved the lives of Colonel Skobelef and Mr. Weinberg, during their forced retreat at the time of the revolution -which dethroned Khu dayar Khan, and accompanied them to Hodjent. He has since been pardoned by the Emperor. IN PURSUIT OF THE KHAN. 21 We were delighted with this intelligence, crossed over to tl e other side of the court to bid the Mekhter good-bye, and started off as soon as possible, accompanied by three officials sent by him, and an additional guard of a few soldiers until we were well out of the town. Starting at two o'clook, at about half-past three we reached .Buvandy, a small village twelve miles from the city. The road was very pretty, through fields and plantations with many trees, and occasionally canals of clear water, the high moun- tains being visible both on the north and south. Now and then some fierce-looking man, with matchlock slung across his back and heavy sword jangling against his stirrups, passed us bearing messages from the Khan, or joined us to go in company, so that when we left this village, where we waited for some hours, we had a considerable company. We rode on for five hours at a good steady pace, although, as there was no moon, it soon became quite dark, through the barren steppe and the sandy desert, which seems to surround the city of Khokand on all sides, and at last arrived at a wretched village of four or five huts. Here, in spite of cheer- lessness and misery, we were glad to spread our blankets on the ground by the side of a pond,— -for although we were the Khan's guests, no other place was offered to us, — and slept until morning, being too tired even for tea. After a sound sleep, we were awakened early, and in an hour we succeeded in getting off, when we changed our des- tination, for we were told that the Khan had already left Namangan, and was at Balyktchi, on the Syr Darya. After two hours' hard riding, still over the steppe, with the mountains visible to the right and left, we reached the village of Crur-tepe, nine miles. Here we were put up in a small court intersected by a narrow ditch of water, without a tree, and with no shade save under one verandah, where we were greatly annoyed by gnats, and with no shelter but an old hut with a muddy floor. We, however, ate apricots, took tea and shurpa, a sort of rich mutton-broth, and dragged through the day until two o'clock, when, being too tired to ride, I set out in a cart. The road was again through the steppe and sand, and finally over a barren plateau, lying at some little distance from the Syr Darya. Between the villages of Hama Bulak and Ming Bulak, we 22 TUEKISTAN. had a lovely view to the north. In the far background was a high mountain range ; below this were lines of hills, and in the middle distance the fertile valley of the Syr Darya full of trees and villages, while rice fields and reeds filled up the foreground. In the distance, on the other side of the river, was seen Namangan, one of the most important towns in the Khanate ; and to the south the snowy Alai range was always in full view. This was about five miles from Balyktchi. On approaching that town, the road follows the river bank, and we had an ex- cellent view of the meeting of the muddy and turbulent Naryn with the placid and clear Syr Darya. The Naryn is, however, the main stream, and imparts its muddy character to the river for the rest of the course. The road turned away many times from the river between the clay walls of the numerous gardens, and again came back to it, and followed its edge till it seemed to me as if I never should reach Balyktchi ; for I was fatigued, it was now getting dark, my horse constantly stumbled, and all except my interpreter and one jigit, were far in advance. At last we turned up the hill, wound our way through the bazaar, and went to the urda, where we were assigned to a common court, and were told that the Khan was not here, but had gone further on, to Utch Kurgan. Our journey was in many respects greatly lacking in incident. Oiten, it is true, we had fine scenery to look at, but no one seemed to care for it, or to share my feelings for land- scape. The officials who were taking care of us treated us in a very offhand way, and provided nothing for our entertainment, and consequently we were obliged to rely upon ourselves for all our amusement. By far the most diverting of the party was Ata Bai, the jigit of the interpreter Abdullah, an old man who had lived in Khokand the greater part of his life, and was addicted to the use of kukhnar, a narcotic drink made of poppy-heads bruised in water. He prepared and drank this in a most unblushing way, although constantly ad- mitting it to be a weakness and a sin. His fits of the dumps, when he could not have his usual modicum, madn him as amusing as did the undue exhilaration which was caused by the drink. He always had some jest, and succeeded almost alone in keeping up our spirits. THE NARYN. 23 Leaving Balyktcki early the next morning', after a twenty miles' ride we reached Haikovar, a small village. We crossed the Syr Darya on a low crazy wooden bridge, the road following the river for a little distance, and then striking north. The whole country in this triangle between the Naryn and Syr Darya is beautifully cultivated, and full of villages, the canals being brought from the river Naryn, although the immediate valley of the Naryn is a stony and barren one There was constantly a beautiful mountain view to the north. This part of Khokand, including Namangan and Andijan further to the east, is by far the most fertile part of the Khanate. The city of Khokand is situated in the midst of a stony waste, and only the immediate vicinity of the town can be cultivated, the water used there coming from a small stream which flows the Alai mountains. Sweltering in the heat, we were obliged to wait at Haikovar the whole day ; for although it was only four miles to Utch Kurgan, etiquette required us again to send to the Khan to say that we had arrived thus far, and to ask if we could go further. An answer finally arrived saying that a house had been prepared for us, that new carpets had been spread down, but that we had better travel when it was cooler, and that the Khan would receive us in the morning. At about five o'clock we set out over a horribly dusty road through the bare steppe, and in an hour reached the bank of the Naryn. The river is here 'very muddy and rapid, and roars over the rocks like a cataract. Passing for some distance along the bank, and meeting at every step with soldiers and jlgits who were taking horses down to the river to be watered, we passed through the little bazaar, now crowded with people, — for the Khan had brought a large suite with him, — and were conducted to a small garden, where the air was very oppressive, • — by no means the place which had been promised to us. To add to our discomfort, a great dust storm arose, and for five minutes we could scarcely breathe, being obliged to bury our faces in the pillows. The Mirza who was with us told us that for that night we must content ourselves with tea, as it was too late for him to procure us anything to eat. I had long before felt like rebelling at our treatment, and had restrained myself for fear lest I might injure Mr. F 's business; but 24 TURKISTAN. throughout the whole journey I had strongly objected to our not being allowed to have our own way, and to being compelled to follow implicitly the orders of the Mirza. The insolent manner in which he gave us this last information made me thoroughly angry : and I told him that he had informed us all along that we were the guests of the Khan ; that as such I demanded better treatment, and that I should insist upon having some supper that night ; that it was still early, seven o'clock, and that as I had seen the bazaar was yet open. The Mirza, impressed with my tone, began to apologise, said that we should have something in about three hours, and soon brought me in a dish of kavap, which I and my interpreter ate alone, the others having gone to sleep. We had been told that we were to be presented to the Khan at the early salaam, and we consequently had to rise about four o'clock. Mr. F put on a black frock coat, with all his decorations ; but I. conjecturing that the Khan would not know the difference between full and ordinary dress in an infidel, and having no uniform, wore my usual grey tweed suit, refusing a proffered native gown. After riding for half-a- mile along the river bank, we came to a double line of ridiculous soldiers, sitting cross-legged in the road, in the most absurd uniforms, some with match-locks, and some with flint muskets, which most of them held at ' present.' After riding a certain distance, we had to dismount, and immediately our arms were seized by various officials, — generals, as it turned out afterwards, ■ — in long dark coats, and high fur caps, gold belts 5 and swords, and three epaulettes, one on each shoulder, and one in the middle of the back. We soon came in front of a large garden, where at a distance of a hundred paces or more, there was a green Bukharan tent, under which three men with white turbans were sitting. Which was the Khan, I was unable to discern. For some reason my movements were not as much restricted as those of the others, and while my companions were forcibly made to bow very low, I had a chance to look. The attendants shouted out something in a loud voice, of which I could only make out Khudayar Khan Kylsun. We were summoned to deliver up our letters and presents, and were then immediately brought back, even more quickly than we came. This astonished me greatly, for I knew something of the order of ceremonies at these courts, and had supposed that this was merely SEIU MOHAMMED RHUDAYA?,, KHAN OF KHOKAND. OUK RECEPTION AT COURT. 25 the preliminary salutation previous to advancing to the tent and being personally presented to the Khan. Haba Bai, who was a native of the country, although long settled in Hodjent, and whose conscience perhaps smote him for something, was seized with fear and trembling, thinking that he was being led off to immediate execution, and even Abdullah thought that we were going to prison. We were, however, after being led on foot through the whole line of soldiers, only taken to a house close by on the bank, occupied temporarily by the Bek of Balyktcki, who spends his summers at Utch Kurgan. This was the first time the Khan had been here during the ten years of office of this Bek, whose house he was then occupy- ing. The Khan every summer makes a tour of the provinces, nominally for amusement and inspection, but really to obtain largesumsof money in the shape of presents from the various Beks. Bahmet Ullah Bek of Balyktchi was formerly a slave, but the Khan fell in love with his sister, who was a great beauty, and on his marriage to her freed him and made him Bek. This sister had died, but had left a son, Urman Bek, then a boy of twelve or thirteen years, who had recently been appointed Bek of Namangan, and is the pet of his father, the Khan. Bahmet Ullah was a fine looking man of about thirty-five, and of very gentlemanly manners. 1 On reaching the house, we were ushered into the reception room, where we sat on stools, while the Bek, in full uniform, — three epaulettes and all, — accompanied by his brother, a handsome young fellow in the service of the Khan, and by his little son Namet Illah, told us that the Khan had ordered him to give us hospitality, and that this, his temporary house, was at our disposal. He then said that he would send for our luggage, and that we were to remain there during our stay. As the house was very pleasantly situated near the river, and had a large garden with plenty of shade, we were delighted with the change. The Bek asked us what we wanted, and told us that everything depended on the Khan's pleasure ;. that no one dared speak to him first on any subject, and that we therefore must wait. We told him that we thought the Khan had not treated us properly in not receiving us personally when we 1 A few weeks after my visit Rahmet Ullah was killed by the Kiptchak and Kirghiz insurgents, by having a sharp stake driven through his head. 26 TURKISTAN. were the bearers of letters from the chief authorities at Tashkent, but he repeated that everything there was at the Khan's own pleasure, and that he, much less anyone else, did not dare to criticise him, or speak to him. After conversation of a slight nature, he left us with a tray of tea and melons, and afterwards sent each of us a silk gown. When we were lounging about the garden, the Bek got hold of the interpreter Abdullah, with whom he had a long private conversation, trying to see if we had not some more secret business than that which we alleged. In the afternoon we sent the Bek some presents; I giving him, among other things, a small compass set in gold. He then came in to see us, and talked a long time in a very amiable way, had a long conversation with Mr. F about his business, asked a few questions about America, and then, turning to the subject of the Russians, asked whether it was true that the troops at Hodjent were being reinforced, and showed a fair knowledge of the position of affairs there and of the character of the new commander, as compared with that of the old, as well as of the complaints made against the administration ; he boasted greatly of the excellent army of the Khan, which was capable of repelling any invasion, and then referred to the 3,000 Kiptchaks whom he had in his own service, evidently desiring to make the impression upon us that the Khan was only waiting for an excuse to annihilate the Russian power in Asia. Toward night we bathed in the river, and had our beds spread on the terrace in the garden, where we had our tea and pilaf. We were lying there, half undressed, when a great uproar was raised near by, and we found that one of the men of the house had been stung by a scorpion. I made a slight incision, and applied some ammonia which eased the pain, and in the course of an hour or so he entirely recovered. The next day I tried the same remedy on another man, but without effect, perhaps because he had been stung in the callous part of the foot. Soon after this — although it was now very late — the Bek came to us again and had a long talk. He told Mr. F that his business would probably get on well, and that he would tell the Khan himself all that we desired ; but he was unable to tell me whether I would be allowed to pursue my journey or not, as the Khan had said nothing about it, I LIFE IN TJTCH-KUKGAN. 27 although he thought that it would be possible. He said that, according to custom, he had been obliged to show to the Khan the presents we had given him, and that Hazret 1 had been so much pleased with the small compass that he had retained it in his own possession, and then the Bek hinted strongly that he would like another. Compasses are much liked by Mussulmans as they are used to show the Kibleh, or the direction of the Kaaba at Mecca. Life in Utch-kurgan was rather dull. The near vicinity of the Khan, the crowds of soldiers, Kiptchaks, and all sorts of people who filled the streets, united with the intense heat, rendered it disagreeable to be out. And then there was the fact that there was very little to see except the people. We had to rise early, for after the sun was up there was no chance of sleeping in the open air, and we had nothing to do all day but to lie on our backs and talk with the various inmates of the house, or wander round the garden and watch their occupa- tions. It was a very good opportunity for studying native life in a rich noble's house, for the number of retainers was great. In one corner three or four cooks were occupied all day long in killing and cutting up sheep, in washing rice and boiling it into pilaf; for Rahmet Ullah Bek maintained a guard of 200 soldiers, whom he had to feed from his kitchen. Then there were the horses to be groomed ; and one old man and two boys devoted themselves exclusively to the care of three falcons, which had to be fed, exercised, and played with, in expectation of another chase. The chief steward of the Bek was also his tailor, and I watched him cut two whole pieces of calico into shirts and trousers. There was an old secretary who had very little to do, except to give a reading lesson to Namet Illah, the Bek's little son, who had also three or four other men engaged in looking after him. When all of these people were not occupied with their own duties they were either talking to us, examining the things which we had brought with us — and for them nearly everything was curious — or looking at the operations of the cooks, and gloating in anticipation over their supper. Amusement there was none, all games being strictly forbidden. Such things as dancing, jugglery, and comic performances are, I am told, prohibited 1 ' Sanctity,' or ' Majesty,' used in speaking to or of high dignitaries or saints. 28 TUKK1STAN. in the Khanate, — the licentious Khan, having seen the error of his ways, and having put on, for his people at least, a semblance of virtue. Of praying there was very little ; occasionally in the afternoon, or at sunset, some few more piously disposed individuals would spread out a rug and make their supplica- tions to Allah ; but prayer did not seem the pastime or excite- ment which it is in the large towns. One poor old man, &fVA^ THE SIX-EATER. however, I noticed, who seemed constantly engaged in prayer. On calling attention to him I was told that he was an iskatcki, a person who gets his living by taking on himself the sins of the dead, and thenceforth devoting his life to prayer for their souls. He corresponds to the ' sin-eater ' of the Welsh border. FOLK LORE. 29 With the exception of the book used by the secretary in giving his daily lesson to the small boy, not another one was to be seen, nor did there seem to be any attempt at story-telling even. It was a very lazy and listless, though perfectly decorous life. We had a whole sheep given to us once a day for the sustenance of our party, but were obliged to kill and cook it ourselves, and as one of the arba drivers was speedily found to be the most skilful cook, on him fell the burden of the kitchen. During the few days I passed in this garden I learned many proprieties as well as many superstitions of Mussulman life. For instance, I was shown how to eat a melon. According to the Koran, when an animal is killed for food, its throat must be cut in order that the blood may all run out. By transfer of ideas the melon is treated in the same way. First, its throat is cut, that is, a small incision is made in the end farthest from the stem ; then its head is cut off by slicing off a small piece ; after that it is cut up lengthways, and with one or two dexterous turns of the knife the flesh is removed from the rind and cut into small thin slices, which are pushed out alternately by the knife. When a man drinks water, he should first take one swallow slowly, while repeating to himself the name of Allah, and then take two swallows, after which he can gulp down as much as he pleases. When a person hiccoughs it is common to say, ' You stole something from me.' This is supposed to bring good luck. If you sneeze when I speak to you, it shows that I urn right. If a person sneeze three times it is very unlucky. Yawning is a most sinful and dangerous practice, and arises from an evil place in your heart, hazzi shaitan, which is getting ready for the reception of an evil spirit. Mohammed never yawned, for when he was only four years old he was one day seized in the desert by the angel Gabriel, who pounced upon him like a bird and cut out the evil place from his heart. If, therefore, you yawn, you should always put up the hand with the palm outwards, so as to ward off the evil spirits that will at once come to you. Among the more puritanical folk laughter is also bad ; and it is said that Hanify, one of the famous Mussulman doctors, lost half of Asia for Islam by laugh- ing. Whistling also is bad. If a husband whistle, something 30 TUEKISTAN. will happen to his wife ; and if children whistle, their father or mother will die. Whistling, too, is supposed to bring wind, and the Kirghiz frequently whistle for that purpose. 1 A buzzing in one's ears shows that a man is dead, and a prayer is always repeated. There is a beautiful legend connected with this. In heaven there is a tree, on each leaf of which is written the name of some soul, and what men call a buzzing in their ears is the rustling of one of these leaves as it falls from the tree. If the noise in your ears be a ringing as of bells, then it is a Christian soul whose leaf has fallen, and who is to die ; and so for each faith the noise is different. There also exist many similar superstitions with regard to the twitchings of different parts of the body, called tentahnak. There is a little bird named karlagatch, the forked tail of which is always trembling. This tail, if you keep it about you, will always ward off ill luck. It is, therefore, a very common part of a woman's head-dress. There is another belief, too. about the karlagatch. If, when you first see this bird in the spring, you dig a deep hole in the ground under the big toe of your right foot, you will find a coal. With this coal in your hand go and stand in front of a mosque, bearing also a slim rod. You then watch everyone who passes, and at last there will be a girl wearing a large hat. You touch her with the rod, and make her stop and go into the mosque with you, and you can then obtain her hat, which will make you invisible, and allow you to wander unseen wherever you please. Among the Kirghiz the magpie [aha) is a very ominous bird, and they carefully watch its comings and goings. If a Kirghiz hear one of these cry, he goes out to look. If the magpie be on the east, it means guests ; if on the west, a journey; if on the north, bad luck; if on the south, some remarkable event. With regard to the crow, there are similar superstitions, and among others it is said that the Jcarga, or ordinary crow, and the hoh-harga, or green crow of the steppes, never met until the Eussians came. Before that the black crow flew away before the green one came ; now both birds are seen together. Either the stumbling or the snorting of a horse while on a journey is considered a sign of good luck. In 1 Russian sailors also object to whistling on the water, as it is believed to call up evil spirits, and produce danger or a storm. DIVINATION. 31 Bukhara, if, in crossing a stream, a horse stumble and let the rider get wet, it is thought to be the greatest good luck. To meet a woman unmounted, or with nothing in her hands, is to have bad luck ; but if you meet anyone on horseback, especially a young man, with something in his hands, you will have good luck. If a hare run across a man's path while he is on a journey, it foreshows ill-luck, and he usually goes back. It is, however, the sheep, which constitutes his chief wealth, that furnishes the Kirghiz with the best material for forecasting the future. The shin-bone of a sheep is always placed above the door of a kibitka to keep out robbers, and men sometimes take one as a charm on a journey. In order to prove to me the efficacy of this charm, one of the jigits told me the story of a Kirghiz, who, when he was going on a long journey, was besought by his wife to carry with him a small bag which she gave him, and which he was always to keep fastened to the saddle of his horse, and never to untie. After he had accom- plished the fortieth day of his journey, his horse being weary, his eye happened to rest upon this bundle, and he began to wonder what he had been carrying so long ; on cutting it open, he saw forty bones, which, thinking them to be a useless burden, he threw away. That very night he was attacked by robbers who had been watching him for forty days, and lost his horse and everything that he had. The most common method of divining the course of future events, is to place on the coals the shoulder-blade of a sheep, which has been carefully cleaned of the flesh. This is gradually calcined, and the cracks, the colour, and the small particles which fall away from it, denote good or bad luck or the various accidents which may happen on an expedition. When a Kirghiz is about to start on a plundering expedition, or indeed on any task which requires luck as well as skill, he always first tries this process, and sometimes will stop in the middle of his way, light a fire, and consult this oracle. Another kind of divination is very common, — kumalak, by means of dried sheep dung. The Kirghiz selects forty-one balls of dung, and divides them roughly into three heaps. He then takes four at a time from each heap, until only four or less remain in each. The remainder he also divides into three heaps, and again takes from each by fours. Three more heaps are thus made, so that 32 TUEKISTAN. at last there are three rows of three piles in each. What is left he divides by three, and sees whether the remainder be one, two, or three. The varying numbers and positions of the balls of dung- can be explained by an experienced soothsayer to the intense satisfaction or to the disappointment of the one who consults him. In the towns, stones or small knuckle-bones are substituted for sheep dung, although at such a profanation the Kirghiz would look askance. Persons even carry them always about with them in a bag, so as to be never at a loss for means wherewith to divine the future. This process is in some respects similar to the divination by cards practised by gypsies, and by almost every woman, young or old, in Eussia. Among the more settled population, especially among the upper classes, fate is usually consulted by more refined methods, practised by individuals who devote themselves to that as a profession, and in all the large towns there are regular astrologers. A falbin foretells the future by opening the Koran at hazard, and en- deavouring to explain the first verse that meets his eye in regard to the event about which the question is asked. Another book in use is the Jalal-eddin-rumi of Masnavi. This method is in every way analogous to the Sortes Virgiliance, or to the Bible lots practised among some Christian sects. Great regard is paid to dreams, and their explanation is always a matter of anxiety. There is, for instance, the process called istakhari, praying for a fateful dream. The usual method is to consult a holy man, or saint, and ask for the decision of heaven as to the course about which you wish to be informed. The saint, on retiring for the night, makes certain fixed prayers which are con- sidered necessary, and has a dream appropriate to the occasion, which he explains on the following day. The test of a dream is nearly always resorted to in cases where a person wishes to join a religious community. Such a person presents himself to the pir, or leader, and asks to be a member. He that night recites the istakhari prayers, and in the morning relates to the pir his dream, in accordance with the character of which he will be received into the community, or rejected. One evening, towards sunset, I started out with Andrei to walk a little by the river side, and look at the crowd. We saw a calvacade pass us with two of the Khan's sons, stupid- looking youths of sixteen and eighteen years, one of them BATHING UNDER GUARD. 33 carrying a falcon on his wrist. We walked along towards the Khan's garden, where soldiers and jigits were standing, one or two of whom rushed up and shook hands with us, and greeted us politely, but we were soon told that it was forbidden to pass there, and were ordered to go back. "We had no sooner turned back, than another official came to us, and told us, that if we liked, we could go on and look at the bridge over the Naryn. This is a large rough wooden bridge, standing on wooden coffer piers filled up with stone, extending and coming to a point up-stream in the usual way, to keep off floating ice from the bridge. It was built about forty years ago. As we came back the Khan was coming from prayers, and we were obliged to wait for a few moments, while the band struck up some Khokandian anthem. The music was very droll, the band being composed of four drums, three or four horns, and as many clarionets. We heard here an amusing complaint of a soldier to the aksakal, on account of his being abused and called names by some comrade. As we passed the pavilion in which the Khan was sitting, and made the usual salaam, we had a good view of him. On arriving home, the official who had accompanied us back expressed his surprise that we should have been allowed to go out alone, and we were immediately overwhelmed with reproaches at having dared such a rash proceeding ; conse- quently, when three of us went to bathe that evening, only across the road, we had a body-guard armed with matchlocks and sabres, first of three, and afterwards of eight men, who sat on the rocks and watched us, so that I could not help re- membering stories of prisoners among Neapolitan brigands, and wondering who would pay our ransom. Late at night, although we were already going to bed, the Bek, whom we had not seen all day, came and told us that my journey would be decided upon the next day, at the same time as F 's business. After a long talk he went away with Abdullah the interpreter, and they had an interview with an old white-bearded fellow, Mullah Turdali, the Eegent of Namangan, who is one of the Khan's most intimate counsellors, and usually accompanies him on his journeys. The Mullah seemed unable to see any reason why the Khan should do anything for me, as the friendly relations of Khokand existed only with Eussia, and not with America, but st'll was willing to consider the subject. After VOL. II. D 34 TUEKISTAN. some time the Bek came back, and told us that we should each have papers given to us the next day, permitting us to travel ■wherever we chose, and that every opportunity would be given to F to purchase the timber he wished. He asked again about America ; and I took occasion to impress upon him its power and its relations with Eussia, and hinted that we could even make an impression on Central Asia in connection with Eussia, if it were necessary to do so. In a case like this, where I felt that the future of my journey was at stake, a certain amount of humbug seemed not only admissible, but absolutely necessary. After praising once more the Khokandian forces and his 3,000 Kiptchaks, he left off war-talk, and went away. In half an hour the Bek again returned, bringingwith him an India-rubber bottle and an India-rubber air-cushion of mine, and wished to know what they were, and how they were to be used. I had left these articles fastened up in my bag, so that it was evident that he and his friend the Mullah had been thoroughly investigating our luggage. He was anxious to obtain some more presents for the Khan, who, he said, was always very eager to get curiosities and things that came from Europe, and began to talk a great deal about inventions. We were able to tell him about many curious things, at which he opened widely his eyes, and evi- dently thought we were romancing. Although F said that he was building the bridge for the government, the Bek told him that he still made some profit out of it himself, and refused to consider him a government agent, evidently taking him for an ordinary merchant, and consequently declining to allow him to have an interview with the Khan. He seemed very well informed ; for Mr. F was building the bridge as a private speculation, although under a privilege given by the government. From what I had already seen, I thought that if positions were reversed, the Eussian authorities would have been more ignorant. He promised again to give me a paper which would be addressed to all Beks and other officials, allowing me to travel wherever I pleased, and offered me also a jigit to accompany me ; but said that when I came back from my journey, I must then come again to the Khan, wherever he might be, and have an interview with him, when he would be glad to talk to me, as he desired to see me, and wished to give me a letter to take to Tashkent, to General OUR FAREWELL AUDIENCE. 35 Kolpakofsky, in return for his politeness. I evaded making any promise, and simply replied that for my part I should certainly be glad to have a personal interview with the Khan. Considering that the Bek had lost his compass, I felt bound to give him, in addition to the previous presents, the India- rubber bottle which seemed to interest him ; and F , whose affairs were evidently not going on in the best way possible, went back with him to the room to meet again the old Mullah, and sent a silver watch to the Khan, and, I think, made some personal arrangements with the Bek about the purchase of the timber, for it was found necessary to interest him pecuniarily in the affair. In one of these conversations the Bek said that he had some very pleasant news to communicate to us, — that the Kussians had taken Khiva. ' This,' he said, ' is not news which I have found in the street, or picked up at the bazaar, but it came to the Khan by a special messenger.' On Monday morning the Bek sent for us early, and we found the old Mullah waiting for us. He gave us each a cheap silk gown on the part of the Khan, and told us that we must come and make a salaam in return for these presents, when we would receive our passports, and could then depart on our way in peace. Haba Bai received only a common calico gown, such as the jig its got, and was exceedingly disappointed at being thus lowered from the rank which he had claimed as a wealthy merchant, and at being put below our interpreter, especially when he had given a small telescope to the Bek. After some kavct/p, which we had to beg from the Bek's cook, as our supply of mutton was stopped that morning on account of our anticipated departure, we went to the Khan in our new gowns and received our bits of paper with the Khan's seal, and, holding them as we were bidden between the first and second fingers of the right hand, made a low bow. We were this time much nearer to the Khan, and saw that he was a stout, pleasant-looking man of about forty-five, with a brown beard. He even raised his hand in salutation. 1 1 My passport, 'which was in Persian, read as follows : ' To all Hakims, all Commandants of Forts, all Beks, all Amlakdars, and all Serdars : By this order be it known that one Russian American envoy with his people travels in our country for amusement, tomasha, and pleasant pastime, therefore to this Russian, in every Vilayet and Kishlak where he may go, let nothing be done against the hospitality which is due to our guest, or against his wish, and let the hospitality be shown 36 TUKKISTAN. Luckily, on account of the heat, I wore only the gown when I went to how to the Khan, for when I came to pack up before starting I narrowly escaped being stung by an enormous scorpion which I found on the collar of my coat. The Bek came to bid us good-bye, and gave F and myself each another silk gown, and as road-money ten rubles in silver, as well as a smaller amount to the interpreter Abdullah. Under the circumstances there was nothing to do but to take the money, much as it went against the grain. F started off immediately on his road to Namangan, but I was detained for some hours waiting for the jigit promised to me. Finally, about three o'clock I set off with Andrei and my own jigit, and the Bek's jigit overtook us when we got up the hill and were leaving the town. For miles we went in a south-easterly direction through a barren steppe, then through a well-watered and cultivated country skirting low hills to the east, and came at last at eight o'clock to the large village of Paita, twenty-four miles from Utch- Kurgan. In some of the smaller villages we met half a-dozen horsemen who were passing over the road, directing all the in- habitants to clear it and to make it ready, as the Khan was expected within two days. Whenever they came near a person or house they shouted out at the top of their voices : ' His Majesty Khudayar Khan is coming. See to it that the roads be smooth, and that there be no mud nor uncleanness.' All along the road large bodies of peasants were at work filling up the holes and making it level and good. I could not help recalling what in the Gospel of Matthew is told of John the Baptist : ' The voice of one crying in the wilderness, Prepare ye the way of the Lord, and make his paths straight.' In order to try the effects of my new passport, I had sent it before me by the jigit, who received the paper reverently and pressed it to his lips and to his eyes, and had asked for a lodging in a garden with good water, provender for the horses, and supper for myself. I was met at the edge of the town by a messenger, and con- ducted to a garden belonging to the Serdar of the town, where a terrace had been covered with rugs for me. One of the tea-boys from the bazaar was there, and served me tea and •which is due to him, looking at him (considering his position), and let masquerades not be made of him, and let improper words not be spoken to him.' PRESENTS. 37 melons, and I had a supper of skuiya and pilaf, and every attention was given to me. Even here, however, there were scorpions, and having killed one while I was taking my tea, I was glad to have my iron bedstead put up. I had taken a cold at Utch Kurgan from bathing, and found it that night much worse, and it continued to trouble me for weeks till I broke it up with quinine. While my men were packing up the next morning I had time to make a survey of the garden, which was large and really very fine. It was surrounded on all sides by a high clay wall, was well irrigated, and besides containing many fruit trees, was planted with pomegranates, quinces, grapes, cotton, china- asters, and other flowers. Although the gardens in this country are the usual places of abode in summer, the inhabitants rarely, if ever, have any houses in them, preferring to sleep in the open air on a raised platform which can be covered with rugs. Some- times a tent, or kibitka, is put up, and there are always a few stones or low clay mounds where fires are built and the pots are placed for cooking. I talked a long time with the Serdar, and gave him a silk gown such as I had received from the Khan, at which he was much pleased — probably never having had one so good before — and immediately put it on, receiving the compliments and congratulations of the bystanders. It is curious that in Central Asia a man rarely thanks for presents until he is con- gratulated on receiving them, and even then he thanks you only for your congratulations. Except in cases like this, when pre- sents are a payment — and a very dear payment too — for hospi- tality received, the practice of giving presents, so prevalent in Central Asia, is a great nuisance. A present cannot be refused without offence, and if accepted, a present of like or of even greater value must be speedily returned. Indeed, if a man offer you a bunch of grapes he will say : l Sillau kiryakj a present is necessary. In Tashkent the natives will even tell a Russian the exact amount they expect to receive from him, and no sale can be effected or service rendered without an immediate demand for a sillau. It is accepted with an impassive face as a mere matter of course. The Serdar accompanied us through the town, which was filling up with country people of all kinds, Uzbeks, Kiptchaks, 38 TURKISTAN. and Kirghiz, it being bazaar day, Tuesday. "We went through continual gardens and occasional villages as far as the Syr Darya, more than four miles, where my host left me, after having seen me safely across the three broad streams on a cart. I had to sit on a high seat, as the water covered the floor of the cart. For four miles more we went through gardens, losing our way once through wrong advice, but soon finding it again, and arrived at Andijan about noon. The large Khan Canal which runs through the town was overflooded, so that in getting to the palace of the Bek to find out where we were to put up, and in returning thence to the bazaar, we were obliged to make a circuit of two-thirds of the town ; the remark of Baber about the nine streams of water flowing through Andijan seemed to me literally true. 1 I was given a house and a court at the bazaar, the same that had been occupied by Fcdtchenko on his journey of explora- tion, as inscriptions on the walls testified. While convenient on many accounts, it was extremely unpleasant from the very noisome odour which came to us with every breath of air, — the real Central Asian bazaar smell. Toward evening I took a walk through the bazaar, which is very large and fine, as Andijan is the most important town after the capital, and is besides an 1 ' Of the districts on the south of the river, ore is Andijan, which has a central posit : on, and is the capital of Fergana. It abounds in grain and fruits, its grapes and melons are excellent and plentiful. In the melon season it is not cus- tomary to sell them at the beds ; every one can eat them without pay. There are no better Nashpatis (pears) produced than those of Andijan. In all Maver- annahr, after the fortresses of Samarkand and Kesh, no town is equal in size to Andijan. It has three gates. The citadel is situated on the south of the city. The water-courses of the mills by which the water enters the city, are nine ; and it is remarkable that of all the water that enters the city, none flows out of it. Around the fortress, on the edge of the stone-faced moat, is a broad highway covered with pebbles. All round the fort are the suburbs, which are only separated from the moat by this highway that runs along its banks. ' The district abounds in birds and beasts of game. Its pheasants are so fat that the report goes that four persons may dine on the broth of one of them, and not be able to finish it. The inhabitants of the country are all Turks, and there is none in the town or market who does not understand the Turki tongue. The common speech of the people of this country is the same as the correct language of composition, so that the works of Mir Ali Shir, surnamed Navai, though he was bred and flourished at Heri (Herat) are written in this dialect. The inhabitants are remarkable for their beauty. Hodja Yusuf, so famous for his science in. music, was a native of Andijan. The air is unwholesome, and in the autumn agues are prevalent.' THE KHAN ZADA. 39 old place. I saw several medresses and a number of f>ne cara- vanserais constructed of burnt brick inlaid with tiles, better than anything 1 which I had seen at Khokand or Tashkent. An escort of soldiers and officials accompanied me, and although they somewhat hindered my free passage they were useful in driving off the crowd which surrounded me at every step. On coming home I sent Andrei to the Bek, to ask at what time I could call on him. On reaching the palace his elbows were seized, and he was dragged before the Bek with all the usual etiquette, when the Bek told him that he would receive me the next morning, if I greatly desired it, but he wished to know why I was in such a hurry, as it was customary to stay in a place a day or two before asking an audience of him. The Bek was Nasr'Eddin, the eldest son of the Khan, and heir to the throne, and therefore commonly called Khan Zada (the Khan's Son). 1 When at the early hour appointed we arrived at the palace, which is a new building, constructed with all the out-houses and stables in the Eussian style from Bussian designs, we found the Bek still asleep, and we were obliged to wait for some time in the hot courtyard, where we were surrounded by inquisitive people. At last I protested and said that unless I were shown to a room within the palace, where I could wait until the Bek was ready to receive me, I should return home. I was then invited into a room filled with servitors and people of the Bek, who were eating nuts and raisins and drinking tea, with whom I had rather an amusing time. Two of them, I found, were Tartars, who understood Eussian ; for the Bek had sur- rounded himself by Tartar servants. At last, we were sent for and were brought into the great inside court-yard by an official who told us what to do. We saw the Bek sitting at a window at the right, in a building facing us. We bowed and then went up close to him on the verandah where we were obliged to stand during the interview, while he remained seated within the building. There was, how- ever, none of the ceremony used with the Khan. The Bek held out his hand to me, which I took ; and then he asked us to stand closer to the window and talk with him. I found him a 1 Nasr'eddin took part in the rebellion against his father in 1875, and was made Khan, but he was soon driven from the throne. 40 TTJRKISTAN. pleasant, full-faced man of about twenty-five, looking as if he had a good disposition, and were a good liver. He had been in Tashkent, where he had stayed for nearly a month, and had acquired, to a certain extent, Eussian ways ; at least, as far as dissipation is concerned, for, besides champagne, he was in the habit of drinking a great deal of vodka. He told me, that now I had come here, we must always be good friends, and that he perfectly understood the reasons of my coming, for no two cities in the world were alike ; that he himself had gone to Tashkent to see something new, and had made many friends there. He then asked me when I was going away. I told him that I desired to go that day and asked him for a jigit, at which he said I should stay longer, as he had remained twenty days in Tashkent and therefore I ought to remain the same time here. I said my time was very short and that I had already been two weeks in the country ; to which he replied that Andijan was a very different place from Tashkent and that I ought to stay and see everything that was curious ; and that I might go where I pleased. I there- fore, agreed to stay until the next morning and then presented him with a silver horn for tobacco, at which his eyes brightened up, and, with a smile, he said in Eussian, ' Na pamiat ' (in remembrance). After a few compliments I bowed, and, in accordance with the prevailing etiquette, asked him if I could be allowed to go ; to this he graciously assented, and I was taken to a little room on the other side of the court, where the Bek's steward offered me a cup of tea and a dostar-Khan, far worse than I had ever received from any petty village official. I had barely put the cup to my lips, when the steward brought me a second-hand gown of scarlet silk shot with gold, gave a common one to Andrei and told me that I could now go, a per- mission of which I was not slow to avail myself, first going back into the court and bowing to the Bek. Here, as elsewhere, I have related these personal and apparently petty details, because they afford an index to the spirit and disposition of the Khokandian authorities in their dealings with Eussians. Although travelling as a private person, I had come provided with a strong letter of recom- mendation from the Eussian authorities, who had supposed that a wish of theirs, expressed to the Khan, was equivalent to a command, and that either would be submissively obeyed. When, THE AKSENAL. 41 on my return to Tashkent, I recounted the incidents of my jour- ney, great astonishment was manifested and some persons went so far as to say that I had greatly exaggerated them. The most amusing part of my visit to the Khan Zada was the return, when, in accordance with the etiquette to which even the Russian Envoy had submitted, I was obliged to wear my gown. I had more than a mile to ride to the bazaar, and, seeing me thus attired and accompanied by several officials sent by the Bek, the people all stood up and bowed to me as I passed. One of the men sent by the Bek was instructed to tell me, that his master would have been very glad to receive me quietly in the evening as a friend, but that he was afraid of his father, who was coming within a day or two and who disliked the Rus- sians and did not wish his subjects to have much intercourse with them. He would be glad, however, to do for me every- thing that was possible ; and said, that if I had no vodka with me and desired some, he would be very glad to send me a sup- ply. Whether he thought that he was doing me a favour in offering me some of his favourite drink, or that it was a necessity to all Europeans, I do not know ; probably, the latter, judging from what he had seen in Tashkent. I told the messenger that I should like to visit the fortress ; but in spite of the permission I had personally received from the Bek, he said it would be impossible for me to do so, unless he returned to the Bek and obtained his order. He went back, but did not come to me again until late in the day. Meanwhile, two gypsy women (Liuli) came in to look at us : they sang songs for me, presented flowers, and tried their best to get some money from me, all of which afforded us great amusement. Gypsies — who are not uncommon in these countries — look very much like the Kirghiz, but are easily distinguished from them, being much handsomer and having more regular features. When the messenger at last returned with the required permission, we went to the new fortress, Yangy Urda, which con- tains the former palace of the Bek,— a wretched, clay building, — and some new constructions, evidently from Russian designs. The guard was placed under arms near a number of old brass cannon, some evidently of Chinese manufacture, and probably captured in Kashgar. Considering the vicinity and the some- time sway of the Chinese, it is remarkable that traces of 42 TUEKISTAN. Chinese influence have not been found in this and other cities. The soldiers were as ridiculous in appearance as any I had previously seen, and the officer in command wore Russian epaulettes, bearing the cipher of the Emperor Paul I. On uhe way home we stopped at the armoury, where rude muskets were being made. The machinery is turned by water, and is in every respect much better than that in the armoury at Khokand. I saw there, to my great surprise, some plans of buildings, apparently copied from French architectural books, bearing French inscriptions, such as ' plain ' and ' eelevation.'' I supposed at the time that some French designs had been obtained and copied by the architect, but I subsequently learned that there was an English or French Jew in command of the factory, who was then absent, to my great regret, for he could probably have given me much interesting information. Andijan, now a town of 20,000 inhabitants, the chief place of the Khanate after Khokand, and one of the oldest, made a very pleasant impression upon me ; l whether it was the picturesque streets and the many gardens, the palace of the Bek, so much like a country house, the rapid swollen canal, the bright and lively appearance of the people, or the greater variety in food, I do not know ; possibly all these together, and the last not least. I had, unfortunately, brought with me to Khokand no cooking utensils, having been told I would every- where find something to eat. That was quite true ; but we became very tired of nothing but mutton cooked in the greasy tasteless ways which are common here ; and it was difficult to obtain any variety. At the same time it was too hot, and I was usually too fatigued at night to be able to show my servants any new or better methods of cooking. Here, at 1 Mir Izzot ullah, in 1812, says that Andijan was then abandoned. Nazarof two years later, thus describes it: 'Andijan is on the borders of the territory of Kashgar ; this town is surrounded by villages ; its suburbs abound in all kinds of fruit; the inhabitants are agriculturists, they raise silkworms, and manufacture cotton cloth. They trade with the Black Kirghiz across the mountains, who are their neighbours, and who furnish them with animals. The only fortification of this town is the house of the Governor ; it is surrounded by a wall pierced by four doors ; a garrison of 10,000 men defends it ; every soldier lives with his wife and his horse: the horse occupies the first chamber; the wife has only the second which is less comfortable. A part of the produce of taxes levied on merchandise is employed by the Government in maintaining the garrison. The houses are of mud ; tho streets are tortuous and narrow.' SOLOMON'S THKONE. 43 Andijan, however, I was able to procure eggs, which were really fresh, some chickens, which I had split and broiled on a spit over the coals, and some fresh fish, which was a great delicacy, as it was the first I had eaten for months. The next morning, Thursday, an official came to say that the Khan Zada had gone towards Utch-Kurgan to meet his father, and that, consequently, I could get off without saying a formal good-bye. He presented me, at the same, time with ten tillas in silver to pay my travelling expenses. The road led south-east over the hills, whence I got a lovely view of the Andijan valley, then through a small valley containing a village called Kashgar, then came more hills, then a rather pretty valley, with cultivated fields and trees in the foreground, and bare sharp hills beyond, and still further off the distant mountains with yet a little snow left on their tops. Coming down to this valley, and leaving the little river, we halted, after fifteen miles riding, at the village called Hodjavat, where on Saturdays there is a large bazaar. In an open field, just on the edge of the town, stood the village gallows, two very tall slim poles, firmly planted in the ground, and united by a small cross-bar at the top, to which the criminal is hung. No body, however, was dangling there at this time. The plain here was well cultivated, but after crossing the river, we skirted along some rugged limestone and feldspar rocks. The heat was intense, and we were glad enough, about five o'clock, after a ride of thirty miles in all from Andijan, to arrive at Ush. Here I was given a comfortable house, with a large clean court, near the ' Throne of Solomon.' This cele- brated rock, Takht-i-Suleiman, is a bare high ridge of rugged stone, standing out of the midst of the plain, on the edge of the town, in a way not uncommon in Khokand. An old tradition represents it to be the place where the great Solomon once established his throne, to look over that part of the world. By a mixture of traditions, Solomon is also said to have been killed here ; though, probably, this Solomon was some local saint or hero who has become confounded with the Jewish King. A square, solid, ornamental vnazar, or tomb, surmounting the very summit of the rock, is supposed to cover his body, and near by are shown various round holes, such as are occasionally 44 TURKISTAN. made in ravines by the action of loose stones and water, where the numerous black dogs, which he brought with him, are supposed to have drunk his blood and eaten his body. This rock has been a sort of stumbling block to geographers, owing to the exaggerated accounts of it which have come down to us. Mir Izzet-ullah said that the Takht-i-Suleiman was ' a mountain near Ush, on which is still shown the tomb of Asef Barkhi, the vizier of Solomon ; its dimensions are very great.' Nazarof, a Eussian, who was there in 1814, said : ' On the right hand, on a cliff of these mountains, we saw two old buildings, under which there is a great cave. The guide told us that these buildings are called the Throne of Solomon, and that the Asiatics of these parts, every year, come to worship at this place, believing that on this spot the spirits made reverence to Solomon. These buildings are inhabited by no one.' In fact, the buildings are small, and utterly insignificant, and can hardly be more than a hundred years old, if as much. Baber makes no reference to Solomon's Throne in his description of Ush, although I am inclined to believe that the hill he calls Bara-koh is the same, as there is no other hill in the immediate neighbourhood. 1 Beneath the rock there is a large garden, 1 Baber says: 'Another district is Ush, which is situated to the south-east of Andijan, but more to the east, and distant from Andijan four farsangs by the road. The air of Ush is excellent. It is abundantly supplied with running water, and is extremely pleasant in spring. The excellencies of Ush are celebrated even in the sacred traditions. On the south-east of the fort is a mountain of a beautiful figure, named Bara-koh, on the top of which Sultan Mahmud Khan built a small summer-house, beneath which, on the shoulder of the hill, in the year 902 (1496-7) I built a larger palace and colonnade. Although the former is in the more elevated situation, yet that built by me is the more pleasant of the two : the whole town and suburbs are seen stretched out below. The river of Andijan, after passing through the suburbs of Ush, flows on towards Andijan. On both of its banks there are gardens, all of which overlook the river. Its violets are particularly elegant. It abounds in streams of running water. In the spring its tulips and roses blow in great profusion. On the skirt of this same hill of Bara-koh, between the hill and the town, there is a mosque, called the Mosque of Juza ; and from the hill there comes a great and wide stream of water. Beneath the outer court of the mosque there is a meadow of clover, sheltered and pleasant, where every traveller and passenger loves to rest. It is a standing joke among the common people at Ush to let out the water from the stream upon all such as fall asleep there. On this hill, about the latter end of the reign of Omer-Sheikh Mirza, there was discovered a species of stone finely waved red and white, of which they make the handles of knives, the clasps of belts, and other things of that sort, and it is a very beautiful stone. In all Fergana, for healthiness and beauty of situation, there is no place that equals Ush.' ush. 45 containing two or three small mosques, the residence of a fraternity of recluses and their Ishan, to whom the pilgrim is expected to give a gratuity. After climbing the narrow and very steep path which leads to the top, I came to a large stone and brick platform, built out in front of the tomb, from which I had a magnificent view on every side of the whole valley, the river, the town, the roads leading in all directions with the villages along them, the narrow defile in the low hills through which the river passes, and the splendid panorama of the Alai mountains, in which I was shown the various passes leading to the south. The mountains on the Kashgar boundary were also dimly visible. I was told that Kashgar was 35 task, over 200 miles from there, or a five days ride. Ush is a large town standing on both banks of the river, which is spanned by a bridge. On the other side is the fortress, an insignificant building, and on this side was the large bazaar, which, as it was a bazaar day, was filled with people, although I saw nothing peculiar or remarkable there. On coming back to the house, I found that my landlord had sent tor a man who knew Eussian in order to learn what I and my interpreter talked about ; but the jigit had proved faithful tome, and had said that he should not allow such a proceeding, as, in such a case, I would at once send a messenger to the Bek with complaints. Ush, being a town of the Bekship of Marghilan, is managed by a Serkar. From Ush I was very desirous of proceeding to Uzgent and Tarak Davan, the pass leading to Kashgar, and even had some idea of going to that place if I found the way practicable, only hesitating because I had not previously thought of it and had no letter of introduction with me. I also wished to go into the Alai mountains to see some of the glaciers, and, striking through the southern passes, to go if possible into Karategin. I had heard .much talk of the danger of any attempt to penetrate into Karategin ; but, as near as I could make out, these were reports started by the Khokandian authorities to deter travellers ; and judging from the inhabitants of Karategin that I had seen (many of these men — swarthy, thick-set, good-natured fellows — are employed at Khokand in the Zekat Sarai *), I did not think 1 These men used to collect in a circle in the Sarai court every evening, and 46 TURKISTAN. there would be any other difficulty than the natural obstacles of the mountain passes, and, possibly, the scarcity, for a day or two, of food. Besides the fact that Karategin is an entirely unex- plored country, I had had my curiosity especially aroused by hearing at Khokand that in the mountain passes there exist inscriptions cut in the rocks in some European language. But my designs, however, were at once frustrated by the action of the Khokandian authorities. On sending to the Serkar he told me that it would be impossible for me to go into the Alai mountains, as the Kirghiz living there had risen in rebellion against the Khan ; that the tax collectors who had been sent there had been robbed, stripped almost naked, and beaten back ; and that subsequently one of the men had been killed. That as for Kashgar it was utterly impossible without the special permission of the Khan, as the road there was often dangerous ; but that if I were willing to give him a written paper that I went of my own free will, and that whatever happened to me the Russian Government would not hold them responsible for my safety, he would consider the matter and, perhaps, allow me to go. As I knew very well that should I give such a paper, which would of course have no weight, they would themselves either rob or kill me, I refused. Permission was also denied to go to Uzgent, which I much regretted on account of the ancient ruins — supposed by some to be of Greek origin — that are said to exist there. Finally, the Serkar said that I would be allowed to go to Naukat, which was close by, and where there was no danger. I had asked for this, because I thought that if I could get to Naukat it would be comparatively easy for me to go on along the foot of the mountains, even without permission. I entirely disbelieved the story about the dis- turbances among the Kirghiz, knowing that it was a thing which had been said to Fedtchenko and other travellers, and that it was the usual mode of deterring them. I knew also enough about the Kirghiz to believe that I would be even safer with them than with the people of Khokand. The Serkar, however, refused to allow me to start that day, but promised that I could go early in the morning, and that the jigit who had accompanied me from Andijan should go on with me. Late at night, the after prayers and supper, one of them would recount tale after tale, and legend after legend, until his comrades were asleep. TREACHEKY OF THE GUIDE. 47 jigit came to me and said that he had heard that there was to be a military expedition against the Kirghiz, and that, as he was in the army, he wished to go to Andijan and join it ; on which I said he might do so if the Serkar would allow him and would send another jigit in his place. The next morning I rose at five o'clock so as to make an early start, hut my jigit had gone off without permission, and I had to wait for him, till at last I sent Andrei to the Serkar for another ; but he found my own, who had been ordered to go on with me. The Serkar sent to me a man who spoke a little Russian, wished me a prosperous journey, and gave me a blue cloth robe in return for the presents I had sent him the previous day. I never saw the Serkar at all, as he always pretended to be too busy to receive me. It was arranged that I should pay him a visit of adieu, but, as it was evident he wished to escape it, I thought it an unnecessary ceremony. When we at last got off, the jigit, instead of taking the road on the left of the Takht-i-Suleiman, which I believed to be the direct road to Naukat, as I had had it pointed out to me when I was looking at the view from the top of the rock, turned to the right, and went through the bazaar. I insisted that this was not the way ; but he assured me that it was the only good road, and that it immediately turned to the left on the other side of the rock. He said that there was another road, but it was practicable for horses only and not for carts. At last we turned to the left, and after a while came to a good beaten road leading straight to the town, which we should have taken at first. I showed this to the jigit, who then explained that he had desired to show us the bazaar. We soon found by inquiry of those whom we met that even this was not the direct road, but was the road to Aravan ; that the direct road to Naukat was perfectly practicable for carts, although ascending a short steep hill of no extreme difficulty. As we were told that the road we were then travelling was only thirteen miles longer, we, wrongly as it turned out, concluded it better to go on than to return. We skirted along some trap rocks, and finally came into a pretty valley about eighteen miles from Ush, where, across a small stream, is the little town of Aravan. We had sent both the jigits on to the village with the Khan's letter, for I would not trust this man alone, and we were therefore met 48 TUKKISTAN. by a considerable deputation, including several soldiers, and shown to a house where we could rest. I then sent for the head man of the village, and learned from him that Aravan — which was marked on no map — was on the direct road to Marghilan, and that we were nearly forty miles from Naukat, for which we had originally started, and that there was no cart road either to the mountains or to Naukat. This was disagreeable news, but it seemed easy to procure one or two more horses and to pack our baggage on them, which I resolved to do. I then complained of the jigit who had deceived me, and demanded that he should be sent back to Ush for punishment. He begged for mercy, and confessed that he had purposely misled us, but that he had done so by order of the Serkar, and that, consequently, it was not his fault. The chief of the village told me that his son had gone to the Khan, at Andijan, to consult about the Kirghiz rising, and would be back that day, and that when he came, if he thought it would be right for me to go to Naukat, I should be provided with an escort ; but, that otherwise, I must go on to Marghilan. When this officer came, he of course considered it inadvisable to do as I wished, and said that there really was a war, and that the Khan Zada himself was going on the expedi- tion. I at first had some thought of going back to Ush, and insisting on going at once to Naukat, but as from private in- formation I gathered there really seemed then to be some ap- pearance of war, and as I had but little doubt that my request would be refused, I concluded to make bonne mine au mauvais jeu, and to go straight on to Marghilan and thence back to Khokand. When I sent for the Serkar, to ask for a jigit, he said that we might go to Marghilan on condition that we made no attempt to go to the mountains, as this would be impossible. He then asked me for a pair of spectacles. With regard to our complaints as to the jigit and to my treatment at Ush, he mildly said, 'How are you going to act when you have to do with fools? We find it very hard.' In spite of the refusal of my requests, both the Serkar and his father were so civil and kind, that I could find no fault with them personally. We set off at five o'clock from Aravan, and, after travelling nine miles over a pretty road through a cultivated country with low trap hills on each side, we arrived at Ming-Tepe, where we passed the night. Starting at eight o'clock the next MARGHILAN. 49 morning and riding fifteen miles, we arrived at noon at the bazaar town of Kua-Kishlak where we had a good large house with a courtyard, evidently belonging to some rich man, for it was better built and cleaner than any I had seen in the country. The rooms, which were prettily decorated, were very cool, so that it was a good resting place. We found the town occupied by soldiery, and on the road we constantly met soldiers armed with matchlocks, in groups of from three to a dozen, some on foot and some on horseback ; many of them were clad in heavy coats of mail. We were told an expedition was going against the Kirghiz from Marghilan under the command of the Bek of Marghilan, Sultan Murad, the younger brother of the Khan, who had been at Kua that day, but had left, just before our arrival, for Andijan, in order to consult with the Khan. Starting about three o'clock under a broiling sun and constantly meeting soldiers on the road, we reached Marghilan — twenty miles further— in the early evening, just before the closing of the gates. At about eight miles from Marghilan, we passed the village of Yaka-Tut ; and from that place to the city, the country was a continuous garden. Just outside the gate we were insulted by some natives, and the jigits came near getting us into a fight. Marghilan, which contains about 30,000 inhabitants, is surrounded by a high wall, and in almost every street are pretty little mazars, or chapels, built in the Persian style with bulbous domes, mosaic fronts, and much alabaster fret-work. These give to the town a bright and cheerful air. The streets of the bazaar are chiefly covered over as at Khokand, and the bazaar is full of fearful smells. 1 We were shown to a house with a neat courtyard and small 1 Marghilan was by the old writers called Marghinan. I again quote from Eaber an interesting description : 'Another [district] is Marghinan, which lies on the west of Andijan, at the distance of seven farsangs, and is a fine district. It is noted for its pomegranates and apricots. There is one species of pomegranate named dana-kalian (or great seed), which, in its flavour, unites the sweet with a sweet acid, and may even be deemed to excel the pomegranate of Semnan. They have a way of taking out the stones of the zerd-alu (or apricot) and of putting in almonds in their place, after which the fruit is dried. When so prepared, it is termed Seikhani, and is very pleasant. The game and venison are here also excellent. The white deer is found in its vicinity. All the inhabitants are Sarts ; the race are great boxers, noisy and turbulent ; so that they are famous all over Maverannahr for their blustering VOL. II. E 50 TURKISTAN. flower garden, which in its palmy days had been very pretty The rooms were of good size and tastefully decorated with doors and windows in lattice work of arabesque patterns. On one side of the court was a jutting balcony, arid on the other, a large verandah. The Kurbashi in temporary charge of the town refused, however, to do anything more for us, and told us that if we wished for food, we could get it for ourselves in the bazaar, and this we had to do, as the master of the house refused to furnish us with cooking utensils or dishes, or even bowls for tea. Although I was very tired, I was unable to sleep on account of the predatory incursions of various dogs and cats looking for the remains of our supper. I had intended to stay the whole of the next day, but having soon exhausted the sights, and disliking the inhospitable treatment I received, as and fondness for boxing, and most of the celebrated bullies of Samarkand and Bukhara are from Marghinan.' Mir Izzet-ullah says : ' Here is the tomb of Sekander Jul-Karnain (Alexander the Great). Silk and woollen shawls are very common there, but are inferior to those of Kashmir. The walls of Marghinan aro of clay, and in a "very bad state. There is in the town a lofty minaret built of burned brick.' This minaret I did not see ; it has probably fallen down. Nazarof speaks of Marghilan as being entirely unfortified, and says : ' The houses of the city are built of clay without windows. The streets are narrow. There are many great monuments and porticos, some of which are in good preser- vation. In the middle of the city there is a large building like an open temple, inside of which is a red silk banner. The Khokandians consider it very sacred, and have a tradition that it belonged to the Padshah Iskender (Alexander the Great), who, on his return from India, died in the desert, and was buried in this place ; although Plutarch, Arrian, Quintus Curtius, and other commentators agree that he died and was buried in Babylon, in the year 323 B.C. When a new governor is appointed to Marghilan, the clergy take this banner and accompany it with singing through the whole city to the governor with their congratulations. He, as a mark of gratitude, ties to the banner, as a present to the clergy, a piece of rich cloth of gold and various stuffs, and gives them money, bread, and apples. The bazaar is built of several rows of shops, and on two days of the week is crowded from morning till evening. The Government looks strictly after the weights and measures. In this town they manufacture various kinds of goods, among others Persian cloth of gold, velvet, and various Asiatic stuffs, which they send to Buk- hara and Kashgar. From this latter place they receive tea, porcelain, ingots of silver, dyes, and all the best Chinese wares. The inhabitants lead a comfortable and tranquil life. The women are pretty, tall, and very coquettish. They fell in love with the Russian Cossacks, and when they noticed that there were no Asiatics near, they removed the veils from their faces, talked with them, and always praised the Russian law which forbade polygamy. They also pleased the Cossacks. At the sight of a woman, a Cossack always arranged his cartridge-box, and curling his long moustaches, or clanking his sabre, tried to give himself a martial air.' HARDSHIPS OF THE ROAD. 51 well as the smells of the bazaar during the heat of the day, I thought it better to go on twelve miles to a little village, called Duvana. When we sent for a jigit, the Kurbashi, in spite of the Khan's lettei, refused to give me one ; but after much difficulty we succeeded in hiring the jiglt we had brought from Aravan to go on with us to Khokand. When we were all read} 7 to start the Kurbashi's tardy hospitality at last came in the shape of a dostar-khan with some apricots. The first six miles the road was pleasant, through gardens and fields ; but after that we entered upon a perfectly barren steppe, which extends for over twenty miles and has no water. The village of Duvana we found to be a wretched place, consisting of a few sheds, and thoroughly worthy of the Duvanas or Dervishes who are said to inhabit it. Not a tree was near, and there was no water except that brought from the vicinity of Marghilan, but, fortunately, there was a cool wind blowing and we passed the day pleasantly, leaving there about five o'clock for Khokand. About sunset we were caught on the steppe by a furious dust-wind, coming from the west, which almost prevented our breathing. 1 I took refuge in an arba, and let down the felt in front, as we were obliged to face the storm, when suddenly, without the least warning, a violent cold rain came on. Although I wrapped myself up, as be?t I could, in native blankets, I was entirely wet through. The storm soon passed over, and we arrived, at a little after eight o'clock, at the large village of Kara-tepe, where we were unable to find any resting place. The Aksakal was utterly indifferent to us, and said it was none of his business to wait on us, advising us to seize on one of the shops in the bazaar, and turn the people out ; and we were compelled to act on his advice and take possession of the gallery of one of the shops. It was not, 1 This desert, which surrounds Khokand on three sides, is the same called by Baber, the Ha-Dervish. 'Between Kandbadam and Hodjend there is a desert, named Ha-Dervish, where a sharp wind prevails, and constantly blows from the desert in the direction of Marghinan, which lies to the east of the desert, or in the direction of Hodjend, which lies to the west, and this wind is excessively keen. It is said, that certain dervishes having encountered the wind in this desert, and being separated, were unable to find each other again, and perished, calling out, "Ha, Dervish! Ha, Dervish!" and that hence the desert is denominated Ha- Dervish unto this day.' E 2 52 TURKISTAN. however, so comfortable as might be wished, being infested by scorpions. As I'was thoroughly wet through, I was obliged to change my clothes : the act outraged Mohammedan pro- priety and brought down upon me the curses and abuse of all the neighbours. After this, they refused us permission to purchase pilaf, or even hot water for our tea. We had a long dispute and finally had to send again to the Aksakal, and get him out of bed — it was then quite late — when he compelled the people of the nearest shop to furnish us with what we wanted. The weather having become brighter, and the moon being out, we started at half past twelve, and after travelling slowly the whole night, on account of the muddy roads, we reached Khokand at half past five in the morning. It was already very hot, and the streets were frightfully filthy and muddy, it having rained there, as we were informed, for three days in succession, a most unusual occurrence. On going again to my friends at the Zekat Sarai, I found that F and his party had already arrived, having been to Namangan, and having made a short trip into the mountains, where he had, as he supposed, accomplished his business successfully. I surmised, however, from my experience, that the agreemeut between him and the Khokand authorities would not be carried out in the way be expected ; and it after- wards proved that the timber furnished was by no means of the quality which had been shown him, by which he was put to great embarrassment and loss. F was then leaving, but, as my horses were tired, I was obliged to wait until the following day. That day, Wednesday, July 9th, the Mekhter sent his secretary to me, saying he would like to see me, and I was asked various questions about what I had done, and what had occurred, and a fear was expressed that I was angry and dissatisfied. I related in general terms what had happened, and said that I had not at once presented myself to the Mekhter, because I was feeling unwell, but that I should come to him presently and take leave. When I went to see him, he was unwilling to allow me to depart, and said that I had promised, on my return, to go back to the Khan, who was now at Andijan, and wished to see me personally, in order to talk with me about various subjects, and to give me a letter for General Kolpakofsky. I THE MEKHTER'S OBJECTIONS. 53 told him that I had never promised to return to the Khan, as he had said ; and that after the insults which I had received on the road, I should certainly not do so, as I had no wish to expose myself to them again ; that if the Khan were desirous of seeing me, he should have received me as he ought to have done when I went to Utch-Kurgan on his order, expressly to see him ; that in not giving me a personal audience, he had treated me with great impoliteness, and had paid but slight regard to the letter of introduction which I had brought him from the Eussian authorities. I then told him in detail of all that had happened on the road. The Mekhter made excuses for my being misled and deceived, and tried again to persuade me to go to the Khan, saying, among other things, that General Kolpakofsky would be sure to ask me what he looked like, and that I could not tell him unless I had seen him ; to which I said, that I had done my best to see him, and it was not my fault that I had not. He then asked me, at all events, to wait in Khokand for some days until he sent to the Khan to know if I could be allowed to depart ; that if I wished to go to Andijan, a jigit would be at my disposal to take me at once, but that he would not give me one to go to Tashkent. I refused all these propositions, and after a long dispute, I told him I ex- pected to start that afternoon for Tashkent, where I had reasons for being as soon as possible, and where I should relate all that had happened ; and if there were any leave-taking necessary for the Khan, I would write a letter from Tashkent, bidding him farewell ; and further, that if he prevented my departure, lie must take the responsibility upon his own head. He was extremely angry at this, and finally said that he had asked me enough, and that if I chose to be impolite, he would have nothing more to do with me. 1 It was reported in Khokand that it was perfectly true that there had been some slight disturbance with the Kirghiz, but that the affair had entirely terminated. The Mekhter pro- fessed to have information that forty of the leading insurgents 1 A year after, the Mekh*er was accused of stealing from the customs' receipts, and was sentenced by the Khan to be suspended to a wicker bridge and trampled on, as a sort of ordeal. Luckily for him he escaped alive, and was thus supposed to have proved his innocence. Subsequently, he was poisoned by order of the Khan. See Appendix I. at the end of Vol. I. 54 TURKISTAN. had been captured, and were shortly to be brought to Khokand for execution ; and Yevraf, the Russian refugee, tried to persuade me to stay, by telling me that not only should I thus have a chance of seeing a wholesale execution, but that the discontent in the city was so strong against the Khan and government, that it was possible there would be a general insurrection, which would terminate in the plunder of the houses in the neighbourhood, and possibly of the bazaar. Having, however, made up my mind to depart, I left that afternoon with only my own interpreter, the jigit, and the cart-driver, and arrived towards morning at Bish-aryk. YVe stopped there in a caravan- serai, and the next afternoon I arrived at Makkram. I thought that I would once more try my passport, so as to see whether the Mekkter kad sent any orders against letting me pass, and I was relieved on finding myself kospitably received by the Bek, altkougk I did not see kirn. I was provided witk a large garden and plenty of fruit, and was furnished witk supper. A large number of tke inhabitants came in to see me, and as I had made up my mind to start about midnight, everybody lay down to sleep on the terrace, while waiting until I was ready to start. Riding all night, I reached Hodjent at about ten o'clock the next morning, after an absence of nearly a month. My journey had been in many respects disagreeable, but not altogether profitless. I had acquired a knowledge of what native rule was, and I had learned the extent and the character of the influence exerted by Russia on its neighbours. The Khanate of Khokand is an almond-skaped valley, in extreme length, from Makkram to Uzgent, about 160 miles, and in extreme widtk about 65 miles, surrounded on all sides by mountains and mountain plateaus, which narrow down to small hills at the narrow end near Hodjent, where there is the only road into the Khanate practicable for wheeled vehicles. It was early known as Davan (Ckinese Ta-wan) from its mountains and passes, and was celebrated among tke ancients as tke fertile valley of Fergana, owing its fertility in part to the river Syr Darya, which, joined by the Naryn, flows through its whole length, leaving about two-thirds of the country to the south. The Syr Darya, in its lower course, is useless for CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY. 55 irrigating purposes, being enclosed between higb banks ; and the country is watered only by small streams which come down from the mountains, but which are exhausted before they reach the river. From the upper portion of the Syr Daiwa numerous canals have been diverted for purposes of fertilisation ; two of them, — the Khan canal, and the Mussulman Kul canal, — in re- cent times. The mountains to the south consist of a vast plateau rising into peaks of 19,000, and even 25,000 feet, and containing many glaciers, known usually as the Alai and Kitchi Alai ranges, although called the Southern Khokand mountains by Fedtchenko, the only person who has ever explored them. 1 Through this mountain range are several passes, leading into Karategin and Kashgar, all accessible with difficulty. The Kendyr Tau range, which separates Khokand on the north from the Russian posses- sions, is by no means so high, and has one or two good roads, especially one going to Tashkent, across the western extremity, and another from Namangan to Aulie-ata. Nearly the whole of the valley is fertile, with the exception of the sandy waste which surrounds the city of Khokand. Although it is proper to speak of Khokand as being one large valley, it is, in reality, a series of small oblong valleys separated by low narrow ranges, usual]y of trap, which, on the southern side of the river, seem 1 The Lite Mr. Fedtchenko, who carried on explorations in Central Asia for several years under the auspices of the Imperial Society of Lovers of Natural History, was in Khokand in all about two months and a half during June, July, and August, 1871, and beside his wife, was accompanied by an assistant, a fowler, and an interpreter. After having obtained the Khan's permission for his journey, he went from the city of Khokand to Ispara (the old Asfara), and thence south through Varukh to Jiptyk, a pass 12,500 feet high, where he discovered and ex- plored the Stchurofsky glacier, not far from the glacier of the Zarafshan. Re- turning to Varukh he proceeded eastward to Sokh, on the road to Karategin, and then to Shahimardan, whence he went southward nearly to the Kara-kujuk pass, although he was prevented from penetrating into Karategin by the official who accompanied him. He succeeded, however, in crossing the Alai chain at Isfairam, a pass 12,000 feet high, and went as far as the village of Kurgan, on the river Kyzyl su, in the basin of the Amu Darya. Turning back, he proceeded through the mountain ranges to Ush, went thence to Gultcha, Uzgent, and Andijan, and returned by the way of Namangan and Tuz. A memoir on the chief incidents and discoveries of his journey appeared in the 'Proceedings of the Imperial Russian Geographical Society,' in 1872, vol. viii. No. 1. Since his unfortunate death, a complete account of his travels in Khokand has been edited by his wife, the first part of which was published in St. Petersburg in 1875; the second part has not yet appeared. Six parts of the scientific descriptions of the collections of Natural History made by him, have a 1 so been published. 56 TURKISTAN. always to run from east to west. Thus Marghilan is in its own little valley, Ush is in another, and the villages between them seem each to lie in a separate valley between rocky ridges. The climate is more equable than in the districts of Russian Turkistan, being warmer in winter, when but little snow falls, and that late. On summer days the difference in heat between Khokand and Tashkent is hardly perceptible, but the nights are always cool and comfortable, and I found none when it was uncomfortable to sl^ep under heavy blankets. The mountains of the Khanate abound in minerals ; coal formations have been seen cropping out near Isfara, and in some of the northern mountains, while naphtha and petroleum wells have been found in many places, especially on the north- eastern frontier, near Ketmen-tepe. It is said that copper, lead and iron, as well as inferior turquoises, are also to be found. Owing to the fertility of the soil and the excellence of the climate the agriculture of the Khanate is in a most flourishing condition. Wheat, millet and barley are largely cultivated, the last of poor quality and used only for the food of horses. Rice grows in great abundance everywhere, as also lucerne ; but the two chief products of the Khanate are cotton and silk, which are also the main articles of export. In point of agricultural wealth, Khokand will, I think, not be found in- ferior even to the valley of the Zarafshan, and it will be possible to give a greater development to its resources by extending the irrigation system, and bringing additional land under cultivation. The population of the Khanate is probably less than a million, and is sharply divided into two classes, the settled and the nomad. The settled class inhabits only the open valley, and, with the exception of Namangan, and a few towns to the north of the Syr Darya, occupies but a narrow zone between that river and the foot-hills, in which most of the towns are situated. The settled population are chiefly Uzbeks; but m Khokand and the region of the west there is a considerable number of Tadjiks, and, as in all of the large towns of Central Asia, there are among them numbers of Hebrews and Hindoos, and occasionally a few Afghans. The nomads, whose hostility to, and rivalry with the settled popula- GOVERNMENT OF THE KHAN. 57 tion has been the cause of all the intestine troubles of Khokand, are either Kara-Kirghiz or Kiptchaks ; in all they would not number more than 300,000. The Kiptchaks, a warlike tribe of Uzbeks, live to the north of the Naryn, and in the neighbour- hood of Andijan. 1 The Kara-Kirghiz or Buruts, of whom I shall speak more especially afterwards, inhabit not only the mountains to the north of the Syr Darya, but also, and more especially, those to the south, cultivating the land along the foot-hills, and in the summer, driving their flocks for pasture into the higher plateaus and mountain valleys. Khokand is governed arbitrarily by the Khan, although the various towns and provinces are intrusted to Beks who have almost absolute power, with the exception of that of life and death ; decisions in these cases being made only by the Khan. They collect most of the taxes and disburse them themselves, being responsible for the administration of the government, and the support of their shares of the army. There are, however, certain taxes which are the right of the Khan, and with which the Beks have nothing to do ; and besides this, although they are not obliged to account to him for any money they get, they are expected to give him presents once or twice a year. The exactions of the Khan were one of the causes of the discontent of the population, which broke out into so many rebellions, one of which has at last been successful. The following extracts from a letter written in 1874 by a native will show how reasonable the complaints were. ' To keep the roads in repair, to build houses for the Khan, to cultivate his gardens and to clean out the canals, men are seized in all parts of the country and forced to work. These get no pay, not even their food ; and besides this, when half a village is forced to work, the other, half is compelled to pay a tax of two tengas {lid.) a day for each man during his work. Anyone who runs away or who refuses to pay is whipped. Sometimes people have been whipped to death, and others have been buried alive in the place of work. This same forced 1 The Kiptchaks are believed to be ancient Comanians, the Polovtsi of the Russian chronicles, and the name Desht-i-Kiptchak was given to the whole Kirghiz steppe. It is curious that Abdurrahman-Avtobatcha, the leader of the recent re- bellion (1875) in Khokand, in one of his proclamations, uses this appellation, which had hardly been heard since the Middle Ages. 58 TUEKISTAN. labour existed under previous Khans, but with less cruelty, and the workmen at least received their daily food. Formerly, the inhabitants had the right of collecting without pay grass, reeds and brushwood ; now, everyone is obliged to deliver to the Khan the half of what he collects, and these articles are then sold by the Serkar at fixed prices. Besides this, every cart load of reeds or brushwood must pay at the entrance of the town half a tenga (2fcL), and at the bazaar a tenga {5id.) more. Leeches were formerly free, but now the Klian makes people pay for them four tcheka {^d.) a piece to the official who lives near the pond where they are. When cattle are sold, besides the ordinary zekat there must be paid to the- Khan one tenga each on horned beasts, half a tenga on sheep, two tengas on camels, and one tenga on horses or asses. All imported merchandise, besides the zekat of one fortieth part, or '2\ per cent., pays in addition 5 per cent, of the price to the Khan ; this is called aminiana. Silk and cotton, when exported, pay 10 tengas per camel-load. In sales on the bazaar, men's and women's clothing, beds and silk stuffs and other valuable objects }3ay half a tenga a piece; things of less value, from one eighth to one quarter of a tenga. Soldiers of the Khan are set every night to guard the shops, and for this each shop must pay from two to ten tengas every four months. On grain sold at the bazaar four tchekas (j^d.), a tcharik (180 lbs.) must be paid. Vegetables and melons and fruit pay from one to three tengas a load. This tax is called tek-jai, or right of selling at the bazaar, and is in addition to the haradj and tanap (land tax). Milk, sour cream, &c. must pay a farthing a cup. Of every pair of ducks or wild geese sold at the bazaar, the Khan takes one. On domestic fowls a farthing each is paid ; and a tcheka (^ farthing) for every ten eggs. From time immemorial the tribe of Liuli has got its living by amusing the people, and leading monkeys, bears and goats through the streets and villages. This means of earning their livelihood has now been taken from them by the Khan, who lias made it a source of revenue for himself. Khudayar has set his agents over them, and has increased the number of animals. On every bazaar day, in the large towns three times a week, his showmen go through the bazaar with monkeys, bears, wolves, hogs, goats and foxes ; every shop must pay four TAXES AND EXACTIONS. 59 tckekas. The buffoons of the Khan also go through the bazaars, and all that they get goes to pay his kitchen expenses. When an Imam is appointed to a mosque, he must pay the Khan ten tengas ; and a Sufi must pay five tengas, or neither of them will be permitted to perform his functions. If the Khan learns that there is a family feast, or a circumcision, or a wedding he sends his musicians there. The master of the house must give each of them a gown, and besides, from two to five tillas (18s. to 45s.) for the Khan. Every spring, out- side of Khokand, there is a popular festival, called Dervish- khana; and then every guild must felicitate the Khan and make him a gift of money, according to its means, from 100 to 1,000 tillas (A51. to 4501). If this were not done the leaders would be beaten and tortured. If the Khan desires a piece of ground, or a garden, belonging to a private person, he forces him to sell it, only paying him the price at which it was originally bought, and taking no account of the present value of the land or of the improvements made on it. Every person wishing to leave the Khanate presents a petition and obtains a pass, for which he pays two tengas. This pass is then pre- sented to the Makhram, who receives one tenga, and at every station on the road an additional tax must be paid. The receipt of the taxes on grass, brushwood, and leeches, as well as on pasturage, which is l^d. per month, for every head of cattle, is entrusted to Sydyk Kuitchi, who pays to the Khan annually 20,000 tillas (9,0001). The haradj, or harvest tax, gives yearly 300,000 tchariks (a million bushels) of grain which are sold by the Khan. In each district there is a special officer for this. The district of Skarikana gives 9.000 tchariks, Balikytchi 100,000, Sokh 14,000, Nerkent 12,000, &c. The tanap, or tax on gardens and orchards, produces 60,000 tillas (18,000£). The Serkar receives the tolls on the Syr Darya, between Balyktchi and Tchil-Makhram, the taxes on provision sales in the bazaar, on the registration of marriages, which comes to half a tilla (4s. 6d.), the tax on inheritance, one fortieth part, and the tax on making salt ; and he pays annually to the Khan 20,000 tillas (9,0001). The zekat on the country people and the nomad tribes, entrusted to Tchertchi-Bashi, gives 11,000 tillas (4,850l). The Mekhter who collects the zekat from the merchants, pays over 35,000 tillas {15,7501). The caravan- 60 TURKISTAK serais and shops built by the Khan, which number over a thousand, are farmed out to a man named Issaie, and bring into the treasury 30,000 tillas (13,500/). The cotton tax and the brokers' tax bring in 10,000 tillas (4,500/). The oil- presses, grain markets, silk markets, hay markets, and milk markets, bring 5,000 tillas (2,250/). The exactions from marriages and ecclesiastical nominations bring in also 5,000 tiUas.' After this, it is not to be wondered that Kbudayar Khan was able to leave Khokand with a fortune estimated at a million of pounds sterling ; and is in a position to give, as he has done, magnificent balls at Orenburg, his present place of abode. Not with regard to taxes alone, but in every other respect, the Khan was a frightful tyrant. Under him neither virtue nor life was safe. As a young man he was only a debauchee, hut when he overthrew Mussulman Kul, his chief minister, in 1853, he became a murderer, and by the wholesale butchery of 20,000 Kiptchaks, though he himself had Kiptchak blood in his veins, he excited the hatred of his subjects. One cause of the dislike of the Khokandians for the Kussians was because by their means — at least it was so believed — Khudayar was kept on the throne. 1 1 For a sketch of the career of Khudayar Khan, and of the recent history of Khokand, see Appendix I. at the end of Vol. I. BUKHARA. 61 CHAPTEE X. BUKHARA. From Samarkand to Shahrisabs— A mountain pass — Kitab — My reception by the Bek — Hospitality and amusements — Shaar — The old Bek — The Bazaar— Recent history of Shahrisabs — Tchiraktchi — Karshi — Its appear- ance and its trade — The Amir's son — The Karshi steppe — The Amir's Camp — Interview with His Majesty — Bukhara — The city — The Bazaar — Commercial importance — My acquaintances — Public sales of slaves — Purchase of a slave — Consequent difficulties — Outwitting the authorities — Unsuccessful effort to go to Tchardjui — The shrine of Bohoueddin — Attempted assassination — Kermineh — The Amir's favourite son — Ziaued- din — Katta Kurgan. My journey in Bukhara was in every respect a great contrast to that in Khokand. The country was not so beautiful, hut it showed the impress of an older and a more perfect civilisation. The inhabitants were more amiable and had more refined manners ; but they were also less simple and more ruse. My reception was all I could desire. I was not looked upon as a foreign spy and treated with indifference, if not contumely ; on the contrary, externally at least, I was regarded as an honoured guest, and was feasted and amused. The Bukhariots certainly know what hospitality is, and showed me the best of it. With all that, I do not believe that their real feelings to the Eussians are very different from those of the Khokandians ; but they took a different expression. In Khokand, they were shown by rude- ness and impoliteness ; in Bukhara recourse was had to all the finesse of diplomacy. On Monday July 28, armed with letters from General Abramof to the Beks of Kitab and Shaar and to the Amir, I set out from Samarkand on my journey to Bukhara. As the road over the mountains was impassable for wheeled carriages, I had the day before sent my luggage, on a two-wheeled Buk- G2 TUEKISTAX. haran cart, by the longer round-ahout road through Djam. I had with me Andrei, my interpreter, and a Kirghiz jif/it named Koims-Bai, whom I had brought from Tashkent, while another jigit, a Persian, long, lean, and lazy, accompanied the luggage. I was also accompanied by Abdurrahim, the Kurbashi or Police-master of Kitab, who had been in Samarkand on some errand from the Bek to General Abramof. The first sixteen miles, as far as the village of Kara-tepe, I succeeded in accom- plishing in a carriage, although the road, especially as we ap- proached the mountains, was very bad indeed. Here the village authorities had prepared a kibitka in the garden of a mosque, and we soon had green tea and pilaf. Kara-tepe is a small village, or kishlak (winter habitation), as it is called here, situated among the foot-hills of the Samarkand range, and was formerly a frontier fortress erected against incursions from the side of Shahrisabs. It now contains, perhaps, a thousand inhabi- tants, and is devoid of all importance. Passing the night here, and starting early the next morning, we followed for several miles the windings of the small clear stream of the Katta-sai, until at last it disappeared, and we then took a zig-zag course up the bare mountain. It was only toward the top that our road became very steep and difficult, on account of the large stones. This northern side of the mountain is not entirely bare, but covered with a short, sparse grass, upon which numerous flocks of sheep and goats were browsing. By the much brighter green of the grass it was easy to mark where the snow had recently melted ; for it lies here till the end of June and middle of July. When we reached the top of the pass of Takhta Karatchi — about 5,200 feet above the sea, a broad flat platform of rock hemmed in on one side by great rough blocks, — we let our horses rest while we enjoyed the beautiful view before us of the valley of Shahrisabs, and of the serrated out- lines of the snowy Hissar range beyond. Kitab, Shaar, and even Yakobak and Tchiraktchi, with their surrounding villages, were plainly seen ; although they looked like forests rather than cities from the numbers of gardens and orchards. Indeed, Shahrisabs means the ' green city.' The southern slope of the mountains is far steeper than the northern, and is of bare gneiss and granite rock. The zig-zag path was full of sharp and jagged bits of rock, so that I found it far easier to descend on foot and have my A WELCOME. 63 horse led by a jigit. Indeed, but one of the party had a suffi- ciently strong head to make the whole descent on horseback. What made it more disagreeable was that a violent wind took up the fine particles of the disintegrated rock and enveloped us in clouds of dust. In about four hours from leaving Kara-tepe we had crossed the main ridge, and found ourselves on a dusty but tolerable road among the hills, already on Bukharan soil, where we were met by an escort of some twenty men sent by the Bek of Kitab. The chief men of the party placed their hands on their breasts, then took mine, said ' aman ' (the term of welcome for one not a Mussulman), and immediately entered into a long series of inquiries about my health and my journey. Messengers were then sent on in advance, and we rode at a leisurely pace eight miles further to the little village of Kainar, which we reached about noon. Here the serkar, in a scarlet robe embroidered down the back with white, attended by his suite of jigits, showed me into a kibitka which had been put up forme in a court- yard. I had barely time to bathe my face and hands after my dusty ride when a procession entered with a dostar-khan, consisting of nuts, sugar-plums, sweets, loaves of sugar, grapes, and melons, which was speedily followed by green tea, soup, boiled meat, and pilaf. Kainar ' is a true kishlak, or winter habitation ; for, in summer the whole population lives in the fields, and the village is deserted. With the exception of the officials, no one was there but a few idlers, who had strolled in from the country to have a look at the Frenghi. After an hour's rest I started out again, and before long descended into the valley and reached Urus- kishlak, or Russian-village, a name coming down from very distant times with a tradition that some Russians had lived there —whether fugitives or suppliant princes at the court of the Mongol conquerors, no one now knows. Here I found waiting for me a new escort, consisting of the sons of the Bek of Kitab, arrayed in the whitest of turbans and the most gorgeous of robes, red shot with gold, and mounted on beautiful, richly caparisoned horses. Again there were bows and hand-shakings, and mutual inquiries after our respective healths and the well- 1 The name Kainar means ' boiling,' and is given to the village on account of some bubbling springs. 64 TURKISTAN. being of our immediate relatives. From here onwards the coun- try was green and inviting, but the wind and the dust-clouds still followed us. Soon we forded the clear river of the Kashka Darya, which gives life and fertility to all this valley as far as Karshi, and had before us on a" little rise of ground the crene- lated and battlemented mud wall (tchim 1 ) surrounding the twin cities of Kitab and Shaar, which together constitute Shahrisabs. Within the gate were gardens and orchards, and it was some little time before we reached the true city wall. Kitab differs in no respect from other Central Asiatic towns : there are the same irregular, straggling streets, the same clay houses, the same ditches of water, the same people. As I passed through the streets, and especially through the bazaar, everyone rose to greet me with signs, not only of respect, but of pleasure. As I was leaving the bazaar the guard was called out for me, but. unfortunately for the effect, not quite quickly enough, so that I caught the men in the greatest disorder, running to and fro, hastily adjusting equipments, and trying, with but indifferent results, to stand in a straight line. They wore scarlet coats, black trousers, and black fur caps. Buttons were scattered over the breast in one or several lines, as the wearer's fancy dictated, and on one soldier I noticed buttons which bore the arms and numbers of English, French, German, and Eussian regiments. The words of com- mand were a mixture of English, Eussian, and Turki, and the trumpeter blew his calls in a creditable manner. Passing a large medresse, with its trees and its pond, I was taken to a house near by, the residence of my guide, the Kur- bashi Abdurrahim. Here carpets had been spread for me on the balcony, where I could recline on silken mattresses and cushions, and enjoy at my ease the really picturesque sight. A little below me was a platform, also covered with Turkoman carpets, where the sons of the Bek and a few other honoured individuals took their places, sheltered from the sun by large particoloured awnings. Still lower was a square pond, bordered with trees, around which sat groups of people ; then came the large lower court where the horses stood, which was soon filled by a curious crowd, including many Hindoos ; and beyond all, rose 1 Tchim is literally turf or sod. See ' Note on Tchimkent,' vol i. p. 75. THE BEK OF KITAB. 65 mud walls and flat roofs, interspersed with trees. When I had got rid of my heavy riding-boots and my huge Kirghiz leather trousers, servants brought me a dostar-khan of more than twenty dishes. By the rules of Bukharan etiquette this was my entertainment, and no one else could partake of it unless I invited them. Accordingly, after first breaking and tasting a small bit of bread, I loaded a brazen platter with the choicest grapes and apricots, and another with bread and sweets, and sent them with my compliments to the sons of the Bek. When I was beginning to get cool and comfortable the Kur-bashi asked me if I would permit them to show me a dance. As I was perfectly willing to be amused I at once consented, and in a few minutes a dozen boys of different sizes came trooping in, and, after a low obeisance, squatted on the carpet facing me. The musicians tuned up, and the dancing began, and continued without intermission for about two hours, when I graciously — for I had already fallen into the habits of a prince — gave my consent that the entertainment should cease. Had I not done so, I believe the dance-mad natives would have kept it up till the next morning. Toward evening I was informed that the Bek was ready for my formal visit, and I accordingly mounted my horse and set out for the ark, or citadel. This is a huge artificial mound, surrounded by high clay walls, and containing two large courts and several houses. In accordance with Bukharan etiquette, I was asked to dismount at the bottom of the steep incline lead- ing up to the citadel. Various officials stood at the top, and the sides as well as the neighbouring streets were lined by soldiers, who gave me a military salute as I passed, with a great fanfa- ronade of trumpets, while a large crowd pressed on after me. At the entrance of the first court I was met by the Bek, Abul- Gaffar. He immediately shook hands with me warmly, and asked after my health and that of General Abramof, and then conducted me into his reception-room, a fine large hall, with a gaily ornamented ceiling, and walls stuccoed in arabesque patterns. Abul-Graffar Bek was a fine-looking man of about fifty-five, with a half-grey beard, and was evidently a person of considerable intelligence. His father was then a very old man, high in standing at Bukhara, and one of the chief councillors of the Amir. The red-covered stools upon which we sat were VOL. II. p 66 TURKISTAK the same that I had at the house of the Kurbashi, for I saw them being carried in procession after me. The Bek — who was simply dressed in a dark green silk gown — in a very cordial manner inquired about my visit, and why I came, telling me that I did right to go to Bukhara by that route, and thus see their beautiful country. He, as well as the other dignitaries I had met, had his ideas of America ; but they were very in- distinct, for he seemed to think it a place about as large as Bukhara, where people chiefly devoted themselves to the culture of cotton. After repeated compliments and inquiries about my health, he insisted that I should stay at least a day longer, although I had promised the Bek of Shaar, who had sent a special messenger to me, 'hat I would visit him the next day. On leaving, he presented me with a gown of crimson and gold stuff, of the kind worn in Russia by the priests, and of course imported from that country. My interpreter and jigit each received a silk gown. At the door I found, waiting for me, an apparently very fine horse, with a gold-plated bridle, and em- broidered harness. Politeness obliged me to mount and ride him away, although I was nervous at the thought of going down such a steep incline on a strange horse. On taking off the saddle and trappings so that one could see him, I found him to be an argamak to be sure, but very unsound, and worth, perhaps, about three pounds sterling. After dinner, the dancing boys were once more introduced, but as I did not care to see them dance again, they merely sat and talked with my host. I allowed my entertainers to send for two or three mas kar abashes, or native comedians, who amused us until late in the night with their comic representa- tions of low life and of animals, constantly calling forth peals of laughter from the spectators. The night was cool and I slept till late in the morning. After breakfast I sent Andrei to the Bek with my presents, a piece of green satin for a gown, a box of fancy biscuits and a box of sweets. The Bek kept him some time in con- versation, and asked if I were not a relative of the Emperor, for, although he knew that I was an American, he still seemed to think that I was also a Russian. Shortly after he sent a messenger to request me to write to General Abramof and tell him how well I had been received, saying that he would ENTEY INTO SHAAE. 67 forward the letter. At the same time, he asked for a pair of spectacles, saying that he was getting to be an old man, and that his eyes were weak, — a request with which I was happily able to comply. I walked out to the bazaar, but it was utterly empty as it was not a market day, and with a temperature of 96 degrees Fahr., in the shade, I was very glad to get back to the house, where I found another messenger from the Bek of Shaar, saying that as he had made all his preparations to re- ceive me he would be offended if I did not come that day. Many persons came to talk with me, and one of them inquired about Jura Bek, who was the ruler of the place until the city was captured by the Eussians and given up to the Bukharans. I afterwards found that a rumour had been spread that a friend of Jura Bek had come, and that his popularity was the cause of the anxiety of the people to see me. After sending to the Bek to make my excuses for leaving, and bidding farewell to the people who had charge of me, and giving of course the necessary presents, I started for Shaar, which was about six miles to the south-west. The Kurbashi and the Mirshab accompanied me as far as the last mosque between Kitab and Shaar. Passing between highly cultivated gardens and fields edged round with trees I was met at the boundary line by the nephew of the Bek of Shaar, with a large suite, — all dressed in their ivbesof state — who' went through the usual compliments and inq uiries. There were two runners in front, for the custom there was for great dignitaries always to have men running before their horses. I whipped up in order to try to pass them — everybody following my example —but none of us succeeded i» overtaking them. As we ap- proached the city the crowd become very great, several persons came up and shook hands, many bowed very low, especially the Jews, who said in Eussian ' Zclravstvui ?' or ' How do you do ? ' and the Hindoos, who were very obsequious. Near the fortress the crowd was very great, and could with difficulty be kept in order by the police who pushed them constantly back. Notice had been given of my coming, and the whole city was there to see me, and no doubt I amused the people as much as they did me. At the Bek's express desire, I was taken immediately to his palace. At the gate of the citadel, which stands on no eleva- tion, and the earthen walls of which are fast crumbling down, F 2 68 TURKESTAN. a guard of honour hailed me with a blast of trumpets, and passing them and within the gates through several crooked streets I came to a large open place, where three or four hun- dred soldiers were drawn up in a hollow square to receive me. There was another grand flourish of drums and trumpets and I was astonished by a salute of cannon. Here I was presented to two Ytczbashis, (centurions), wearing gowns made of Cash- mere shawls, with highly wrought silver belts. Dismounting from my horse I walked on with them past the ruins of the Ak-Sarai, the splendid palace constructed by Timur, of which there now remain only the two immense piers of the front arch, solidly built of large bricks, and faced with blue and white porcelain tiles inlaid in arabesques and in large Persian and Arabic inscriptions. In the interior court of the palace I was met and heartily greeted by the Bek, Abdul-Karim Divan-Begi, — an infirm old man with trembling hands. We sat down on a large carpet spread on the raised platform at one side of the court, I at one side and the Bek with the two Yuzbashis on my left, the interpreter being at the corner between us. I gave the Bek my letter from General Abramof, and he called a Mirza to read it for him. Pie was exceedingly talkative, seemed anxious to know all about me, and asked me if I were going to meet General Kaufmann ? where I was going next ? how far it was to St. Petersburg ? how much farther to America ? and many similar questions. Among other things, he asked if it were true that the Eussians had given back Khiva to the Khan. ' Now, ; he said, ' that the Russians have taken Khiva, they have taken all the cities possible. I suppose none is left for them to take but England. Have you heard anything about it ? ' I gravely replied that, although I thought the Eussians had no immediate intention of capturing that large city, yet that, with Alluh, all things were possible. I was somewhat amused by this question, but I was afterwards told, that al- though Abdul-Karim was a former tutor of the Amir, he was at that time very ill-disposed towards him, and meant to ask me, in the concealed parabolical way often used in these countries, if the Russians were intending to attack Bukhara. In the meantime, a dostar-khan of more than thirty dishes was brought in, and excellent green tea was served. Besides THE BEK'S HOSPITALITY. 69 pilaf cooked in the different ways in vogue there — some of them new to me — and various meats, there was an excellent green soup, made of grape leaves. When I had eaten as much as politeness required the dishes were taken away and sent to the house assigned to me, where I found them spread out on my arrival I cannot say that I was sorry, for the cooking at Shaar was by far the best that I had found in Central Asia. This time I was given two robes, one of them being of cloth of gold. As it was against etiquette for me to mount my horse within the palace, and the Bek was too feeble to come out of it, a large white horse intended for me, covered with an immense embroided cloth, was brought in and shown to me as a present from the Bek, and I was congratulated by his officials. When I had reached the proper distance, I mounted my new horse which could scarcely be induced to move through the soldiers and the dense crowd that constantly hindered our passage through the town. I was taken to the house of Seid Merekhor, the chief exe- cutive officer of the Bek, the balconies and platforms of which were covered with Bukhariot embroidered tents and awnings. The platform devoted to me was covered with handsome rugs and was very pleasantly situated. On one side was a rapid stream, muddy to be sure, but the only water that could be had ; on the other, a garden full of mint balm, balsams, portulaca and other old-fashioned flowers, such as I have often seen in old, half neglected country gardens of the West. When I had finished the dinner which I had begun at the palace, I had inflicted on me another dance by ten boys, of whom several had performed the night before at Kitab. As the nephews of the Bek came to spend the evening with me I had to allow the ballet to continue till a late hour. The continual firing of the soldiers, who were exercising at the fortress, woke me up at day-light. The tea was bad and the water still worse, for the river, which I had found perfectly clear at Kitab, had not improved by irrigating the fields along the way. I wanted to visit the bazaar and found myself obliged to ask special permission of the Bek, for there seemed to be an impression that something would happen to me if I went out alone. I accordingly sent Andrei, with the usual presents, to get the required permit. He did not return for TO TURKISTAN. nearly two hours, being- kept by the Bek, who gave him break- fast and made use of the time to ask all possible questions about me and the object of my visit. Here as everywhere else my interpreter, who was dressed like a Tartar, was taken for a Mussulman, and the Bek exhorted him to serve his master well, even though he were an unbeliever, and presented him with a large turban suited to the requirements of a learned Mullah. Attended by several officials on horseback, and by one runner to clear the way, I set out for the bazaar. It was fortunately bazaar-day (here Thursday), and the whole town, but especially the bazaar, was densely crowded. With the ex- ception of one round building, with passages radiating from the centre, where fine cotton and silk goods and small articles were sold, the bazaar resembled in all respects those which I had previously seen, each trade, keeping to its own locality. I could find no English goods except a few thin muslins for turbans, but I saw many Russian prints and calico and other cotton goods, although most of the fabrics on sale were of native manufacture. The only things special to the place were skull-caps, embroidered in silk in the same cross-stitch used by our ladies. The horse-bazaar was situated some little dis- tance beyond the gate to the south. The crowd was very respectful and the Jews were all extremely polite, for they understand that the only relief from the restrictions under which they now labour can be obtained by Russian inter- vention. The garden of one of the mosques served as a tea garden and was crowded with merchants and other natives seated on the ground in all varieties of costume and drinking tea served to them by boys. We went in and had a place made for us between two small streams of water, and at once a large ring of curious spectators formed around us. The mirshab who had charge of me introduced some jugglers, one of whom played tricks with a tame snake, while others ate fire, swallowed knives, turned somersaults, and performed other gymnastic feats with large knives strapped to their elbows and knees. This curious scene amused me for nearly an hour, and the rest of the day, which was fearfully hot, I spent at home, listening to two men playing on the dutara, accompanied by a tambourine, and singing Uzbek and Persian songs. I had some conversation with Seid Merekhor, THE BIRTHPLACE OF TIMUR. 71 and with his retainers ; but it is difficult talking to Moham- medans, with whom you have nothing in common, and who are watching you with suspicion because you are a foreigner and a Christian. Some of them were much interested to know in what way we punished criminals, and I found that in Shahrisabs, from motives of humanity, they usually cut a man's throat before hanging him. The gallows stands in the sheep-market behind the chief medresse. There are said to be in Shaar ninety mosques and three rnedresses, which would indicate a population of about 20,000. Kitab, which is somewhat smaller, has about 15,000 inhabitants. Shaar and Kitab being surrounded by one wall, were anciently known by the name' of Kesh, but now, when taken together, are called Shaar-i-Sabz, 1 or the ' Grreen City,' a name given to it even before Baber's time, on account of the gardens. Tirnur, who was born at Kesh, at first intended to make it his capital, but gave up the idea on account of the superior attractions of Samarkand. With the exception of the Ak-Sarai, already spoken of, there are no remnants of Timur's constructions. The palace is a large house, covered with plaster in the ordinary style, although apparently one or two hundred years old, 1 This should more properly be written Shahr-i-sabz, or even Shehr-i-sebz. It is often pronounced Shehr-scbyz. The word Kitab means 'book,' and Shaar is explained as the same as shahr, ' city ' ; but why these names were ever applied would be difficult to tell. More probably, Kitab is a compound of ab, ' water.' Baber thus describes the city: — 'Another province is Kesh, to the South of Samarkand, at the distance of nine farsangs. Between the cities of Kesh and Samarkand lies a hill called Amak Dayan, from which all the stones brought to the city are quarried. In the spring, the plains, the town of Kesh, the walls and terraces of the houses, are all green and cheerful, whence it is named Shehr-i- Sebz (the Green City). At Kesh was the place of Timur Bek's nativity ; he made incredible exertions to extend and render it his capital. He built a number of magnificent edifices, and, among others, a lofty Twk, or arched hall, for holding his court. On the right and left of this great Tak he constructed two smaller Taks (or arched halls), for the convenience of the Bcks who attended the court, and for the benefit of those who came to wait the result of their applications, smaller Taks and saloons were constructed on all sides of the great hall of audience. There is not in the world any Tak or arch that can be compared with the large one, which is said to exceed even the Tak-e-Kesra. In Kesh there is a college and mausoleum, in which are the tombs of Jehangir Mirza, and of several of his family. As, however, Kesh was found not to possess the same requisites tor becoming a great city as Samarkand, Timur Bek at last fixed on Samarkand as his capital.' 72 TUKKISTAN. judging from the carved wooden pillars. None of the mosques seem to be older. The inhabitants made a more pleasing- impression upon me than those of the other Bukharan cities, partly perhaps on account of the warmth of their reception. It is evident, how- ever, that the conditions of life there are different from those which prevail in the rest of the Khanate. Slavery has nevei been allowed there ; Shahrisabs, like Magian, Farab ; ana other small Bekships, was until recently nearly always semi- independent, bearing something of a feudal relation to the Amir of Bukhara* The whole of Central Asia has probably never been under one homogeneous rule. Tchinghiz Khan divided his conquest among his children as appanages, and this system was afterwards kept up. We see by the ' Memoirs of Baber ' that in his time the appanage system was in full force, and we know that it existed in Bukhara until comparatively recent times. The effect of the appanage system was to give each province a desire for independence, which in many cases was to a certain extent realised. Such was the case with Shahrisabs, and the efforts of the present dynasty of Bukhara have always been to unite the country, and abolish the semi-independence of the outlying parts. With Shahrisabs this was very difficult, for this fertile valley was separated from Bukhara by a desert, and from Samarkand by a mountain range, the passes of which were easily defensible. In the middle of the last century, after an obstinate struggle, Bahim Bii, the Begent of Bukhara, suc- ceeded in getting possession of Shahrisabs, and held it for five years, but after his death the country again rebelled, and fell under the rule of one of the chief families of the Kairosahj, one of the Uzbek tribes of the neighbourhood. In the early part of the present century, Daniar Atalyk, one of the most remarkable of the rulers of Shahrisabs, governed the country for twenty-five years, from 1811 to 1836, with the title of Veli-n-niem. Both Mir Haidar and his son Nasrullah, endea- voured to conquer the country, but met with such opposition from Daniar, that they were obliged to withdraw. Daniar was succeeded by his two sons, Hodja Kul, who reigned in Shaar from 1836 to 1846, and Baba Datkha, to whose share Kitab fell. Dissension broke out between the brothers, and Nasrullah HISTOKY OF SHAHRISABS. 73 profited by them to make a new invasion, hut hefore his army had arrived, Hodja Kul had driven out his younger brothei from Kitab, and then repulsed the Bukharans. Angry at this, Nasrullah sent his cavalry twice a year to devastate the meadows of Shahrisabs, and each time a truce was made which lasted till the following foray. On the death of Hodja Kul, in 1846, Kitab passed to his brother Iskender, and Shaar to his son Ashur-Kuli Bek, who was very speedily driven away. Iskender took the title of Veli-n-niem, which he retained until 1856, when, after ten years of constant warfare, Nasrullah succeeded in capturing Shaar, having first blockaded and reduced it by famine. Iskender forti- fied himself in Kitab, but soon surrendered himself to the Amir on advantageous conditions. He was sent with his family to Bukhara, and received the revenues of Kara Kul for his support. The Amir Nasrullah obtained in this way too the sister of Iskender, Aim Keninghez, who was a remarkable beauty, but who had just before been married. The husband was sent to Tchardjui, and the chief families of Shahrisabs were colonised in Tchardjui, Karshi, and other places. Nasrullah died four years later, in 1860, and just before his death ordered Iskender and all his family, including his own wife, Iskender's sister, to be killed, partly perhaps out of vengeance, and partly out of jealousy. 1 Scarcely had Nasrullah died, when Shahrisabs revolted against his son Mozaffar Eddin, and elected two members of the clan of Keninghez, Jura as Bek of Shaar, and Hakim as Be-k of Kitab. 2 The Amir attacked Shahrisabs, but was obliged to raise the siege, and conclude peace in consequence of an invasion by Malla Khan of Khokand, who had taken Ura-tepe, and was attacking Jizakh. The Beks acknowledged the pre- cedence of the Amir, sent him yearly presents, and assisted him with their troops in case of need, but did not allow him to interfere in the internal affairs of the country. These friendly relations were broken, in 1866, by the disorders consequent on the defeat of the Bukharans by the Russians at Irdjar. Some of the nomadic Uzbeks devoted themselves to wholesale pillage* The Amir was shut up in Samarkand, afraid to show 1 I have given an account of the execution of Iskender and his sister in vol. i. pp. 75-79. 2 See vol. i. p. 85. 74 TUKKISTAN. himself in Bukhara, where a strong- party had been formed in the interests of his nephew Seid Khan. At last the Amir's party gained the ascendancy, and Seid Khan and the defeated leaders of the rebellion, took refuge at Shahrisabs. Some of them were induced to return on promises of forgiveness, which were at once violated. Jura Bek, therefore, refused to give up Seid Khan to the Amir, and successfully resisted all attacks. Finally the Amir thought it best to conclude peace, by which he paid to each of the Beks 10,000 tengas, and in addition gave to Jura Bek the honorary title of Latkha. Of the relations of the Beks of Shahrisabs to the Eussians and of their attack on the citadel of Samarkand, I have previously spoken, vol. i. p. 241 ff. The final blow to the independence of Shahrisabs was given by the Eussians. In the summer of 1870, during the absence of General Abramof on the Iskender Kul Expedition, a band of marauders attacked Prince Urusof, who was engaged in the collection of taxes, and killed several of the Cossacks forming his escort. Prince Urusof insisted that this attack had been conducted by a certain Aidar Hodja, apparently well known in the region, and in the service of Jura Bek. A message was therefore sent to Shahrisabs demanding his instant delivery. To this Jura Bek replied that he was not bound, either by any law or by his conscience, to deliver up an innocent man ; that neither Aidar Hodja, nor any other inhabitant of Shahrisabs, had taken part in the attack ; and that moreover, Aidar Hodja himself had been at the time in another place. He at the same time wrote that he believed a certain Dervish, coming from Kunduz, had taken part in the attack, and sent to the Eussians a Cossack rifle which had been taken from him. The Eussians still insisted that the leader was Aidar Hodja, and again demanded his surrender. To this letter no answer was received. Geneial Kaufmann therefore decided to make an end of Shahrisabs, and despatched an expedition thither, under the command of General Abramof. Kitab, after a vigorous defence, during which the Eussian loss was heavy, especially at the passage of the river, was taken by storm on August 26, and Shaar immediately surrendered. The Beks fled to Khokand, and Shahrisabs was immediately given up by General Abramof to the Amir of Bukhara, as a proof that the Eussians desired na further conquests. TCHIKAKTCHI. 75 The last evening of my stay my host gave another entertain- ment of dancing and jugglery, his chief secretary supporting a variety of comic parts. The next morning, at five o'clock, I went to take leave of the Bek, who received me in a very simple and almost fatherly way. He spoke of his old age and of his sons ; talked much about God and God's will in allowing me to come to see him ; hoped that I had enjoyed myself and sent, as usual, various messages to the Kussian officials. His goodness and simplicity, if not sincerity, made a strong impression on me, and I recall his kind, old face with much pleasure. On leaving Shahrisabs, Seid-Merekhor and his officials accompanied me beyond the gate to the little village of Sharmitan. At the next small village, about six miles from Shaar, I was invited to stop for tea in the Amir's garden. The day was not too warm as there was a cool and pleasant breeze. The road lay through the valley of the Kashka, but the mountains to the south were almost invisible through the haze. About four miles from Tchiraktchi we were met by the retainers of the Bek, who had previously sent a message to me at Shaar to offer me his hospitality, and we went off at a gallop to the town, which is very small and insig- nificant and almost in ruins. The chief bazaar was just op- posite the gate. This place was formerly a dependency of Shahrisabs, but is now governed by a Bek appointed directly by the Amir. Salim Bek, whom I found ruling there, a son of the Bek of Kitab, and a young man of about thirty-five, lived in a mean, low house well situated on the high bank of the river. He was very uncommunicative and seemed greatly under the influence of the Eeis, who was constantly with him (but who, I learn, was soon after removed for misdemeanours), and the usual ceremonial meal, which I took with them, passed in silence. 1 was then presented with a horse and a gold embroidered gown, and was conducted to a kibitka, which had been placed for me near two large ponds of clear water, and at a short dis- tance from the river, in the valley underneath the palace, the Bek excusing himself from making any better provision for me on the ground that he had but just entered upon the govern- ment. I had barely got established there when a messenger ar- rived from Karabak, sent by the Serkar, the aid of the Bek of Karshi, desiring me to come on as soon as possible. I sent word 76 TUEKISTAN. to the Bek that I would come at once, as it would be pleasanter to travel in the evening ; but Salim Bek was very desirous that I should remain overnight, since he had had dancing boys brought up from Shaar, there being none in Tchiraktchi. As it was evident that he expected to amuse himself in entertaining me, I yielded to his request. My supposition was correct, for in the evening the Bek and the Eeis both arrived, and could hardly wait to finish their tea and melons before they asked if it were not time for the dances to begin. Lamps were lighted and set around a raised platform, and apparently the whole population of the town came down to see the show, until I was forced to tell the Bek that I was very tired as a hint for him to retire and let me put an end to the festivity. At sun- rise the next morning I had a delightful view, — a green valley with villages and fields on the other side of the river, and to the north the mountains of Shahrisabs in two hig-h ridges gradually sloping off to the plain. It was a pleasant ride of a dozen miles to Karabak, the road running through the steppe and through cultivated fields con- stantly intersected by ditches, with the river on the right, now near and now far off. The Hissar range was barely visible through the heated air. At intervals I passed country people and encampments of nomadic Uzbeks, and near Karabak I was met by the Serkar of the place with his suite. A Bukharan tent and awning were prepared in a court near a pond, and breakfast had been made ready for me. At noon I left Kara- bak, which is a very insignificant village, and made ten miles more to Sham, where I was lodged in a kibitka beside a dried-up pond in the garden of a mosque. Starting from here about half-past two in the morning, I jogged along quietly, stopping only for a cup of tea and a five minutes' nap under a shed at the large village of Kanavat, six miles from Karshi. Three miles from town I met the assistant of the Bek with his suite, when we all alighted and embraced one another, each, however, taking particular pains not to derogate from his dignity by alighting too soon. I had soon learned whether to dismount first or last, or whether to watch the motions of the dignitary who met me, and so manage it that we should put our feet on the ground at one and the same moment. Karshi, which I reached about nine o'clock, is surrounded karsiii. 77 like nearly all other towns of Central Asia, by extensive gardens. This seems strange here, as the river is dried up long before it reaches Karshi, although in former times it probably flowed quite to the Amu Darya. The irrigation is carried on in summer solely by means of wells, from which the water is drawn, sometimes by hand, and some- times by rude machines, — wheels bearing earthenware jars. There were many wells along the road as we drew near to Karshi, and men were constantly employed in drawing the water and emptying it into troughs for the use of travellers and their horses. The principal street, into which we imme- diately entered, was originally paved with huge blocks of stone, once probably very well laid, bat now dangerous for an un- practised rider, and I preferred the narrow unpaved strip at the edge. The houses were all of clay, and were frequently two stories high. As I drew neal* to the citadel I was met by the oldest assistant of the Bek, Mirza Iraddin Divan-Begi, a handsome Uzbek, who conducted me to his house in the large square citadel, where he gave me a comfortable room, furnished with two beds, a few chairs, and a table of reasonable height. Usually in these native houses, even where special preparations had been made, the seats were a foot higher than the tables. I was then informed that my proper host, the Bek Nureddin- Khan, the second son of the Amir and heir to the throne, a boy of about eighteen, had gone to Khuzar, a distance of about thirty-five miles. After dinner I was asked to go into the garden, situated at the foot of the hill on which the house stood, where carpets were placed for me in the shade, on the edge of a dry deep pond, there being no running water here except in winter. The Divan-Begi came down to see me, and I had a long talk with him, as well as with several other officials who dropped in, and who, apparently with great willingness, gave me what information they could about the road to Kerki and Hissar and about the country beyond. 1 The evening closed with the usual entertainment. 1 Since then, in the summer of 1875, a Russian exploring party, although un- fortunately intended rather for the pursuit of decorations than of information, and including no scientific man except an astronomer, visited Hissar and penetrated as far as Kulab. Nothing but a very brief account has yet been published, a translation of which appeared in the 'Geographical Magazine' for November, 1875, 78 TURKISTAN. In the morning, I was informed that the Bek had just then returned, but as I had heard no salutes and was unable to find that anyone had gone to meet him, I began to think that his absence was feigned. I was asked if I desired to see him, and replied that I should certainly be very happy to pay my respects to him, although I had nothing special to say to him. The Divan- Begi went to him with this information and returned saying that I should have an interview at one o'clock. At the ap- pointed hour, I sent to the Divan-Begi to say that I was ready to pay my visit, and he went to the Bek to see if he were ready to receive me, but soon returned with many excuses on the Bek's part, that as I had not yet been presented to his father, the Amir, whose guest I was, and as he was only a boy and stood in awe of his father, he did not dare to receive me, but that if I insisted upon it, he would, perhaps, be able to meet me in a casual manner, and hoped that I would not be offended. I replied that my request to see him was dictated merely by politeness and of a desire to conform to Bukharan usages, and that while I would be very glad to make the acquaintance of the heir to the throne, I certainly did not wish to insist upon it. The messenger returned again, saying that the Bek was glad that I was not offended, and would be very well pleased if I would stay longer. He sent me, as a present, five handsome gowns, and a white horse with bridle and trappings, set with cornelians and turquoise. This really was a good horse, and the best I received during my stay in the country, but he nearly broke my neck, by running away with me the first time I tried him. I sent the Bek some presents in return, and excused my hasty departure. From that time until early evening, when I left, I did nothing but receive his treasurer, secretary, and various other officials, who came to make my acquaintance. On my return to Samarkand, I learned that this refusal to see me was owing to wounded pride, caused by the fact that I had not brought a letter of introduction from General Abramof, while I had had letters for the other Beks. It was the result of an oversight on my part, as I refused a letter thinking I should not go to Karshi, but expecting to find a more direct road from Shahrisabs to Bukhara. except a list of 67 elevations (some of them truly astonishing) and of 14 astronomical determinations in the 'Turkistan Gazette,' No. 49, 1875. TEADE AT KAESHI. 79 During the morning, I rode about the city, which is a large straggling place, although as it was not a bazaar day it seemed nearly deserted. Not far from the citadel were three rue- dresses, Ali, containing accommodation for 130 students — Ab- dullah Khan, with room for 80, and Biki, intended for 100 students. Turning from the square, I came to a sardoba, a curious large cistern, covered by an arched building, close by which was a domed bath, the best, if not the only one in the place. The bazaar was chiefly under cover, with paved streets. But few goods were to be seen. On market days, however, a large business is done in this bazaar. The fields about Karshi are full of poppies, planted for the seed and the capsules, and of tobacco, that of Karshi being considered the best in Central Asia. Mulberry trees grow every- where, although but little silk is produced. Karshi is a great centre of the grain trade, being one of the chief places for supplying the Bukharan market, grain being brought here from all points in the fertile valley of the Kashka Darya, and even from further off in the neighbourhood of Hissar, and transported to Bukhara. Near Karshi too are the mines of that peculiar, excellent, rose-coloured rock-salt, which is largely sold throughout the whole of Central Asia. It is obtained in the mountains about ten miles to the south of Karshi. Although Karshi lies on the direct road of the trade between India, Afghanistan and Bukhara, it derives no advantage from it, all merchandise being taken directly to Bukhara without being- opened ; some articles, such as tea, being afterwards sent back to Karshi. For this reason tea and Indian wares are dearer there than at Bukhara. Karshi is also the chief market for Turkoman goods, and especially for their excellent carpets ; although most of them seem to be sent on to Bukhara where they can be sold at a greater profit, and at this season of the year I was unable to find any there. There, too, is one of the chief markets for slaves. I asked to see the slave market and was shown the sarai, but saw no slaves, though I was told that the next day (Tuesday), being bazaar day, some would probably be brought in for sale. Near the bazaar is another medresse called the Medresse Sarai. After passing through the western gate of the city I went round the town through the gardens to a large mosque, on the south side, which is especially used during the month of Ramazan and 80 TURKISTAN. at the festival of K urban, when its large gardens are filled with people, who combine their prayers with dancing and other amusements. The inside was very plain, consisting of nine stone vaults. The front of the mosque was very handsome and well proportioned, and was covered, as was also the cupola, with blue and white tiles arranged so as to form texts from the Koran ; but wherever hands could reach, even on the cupola, the coloured glaze had been designedly and wantonly scratched off, or the bricks knocked out. From the top I had a fine view of the town and of all its surroundings. This mosque was built about three hundred years ago, by Biki, a simple Uzbek, who ivas made a Bii and governor of Karshi by Abdullah Khan, because, when that monarch had once lost his way during a hunt, this Biki had met him, put him in the right track, and shown him the greatest civility without knowing his rank. This was the same Biki who constructed the medresse bearing his name. Soon after leaving the town, on the road to Bukhara, W6 crossed the then dry bed of the river on a bridge of nine brick arches, built by Abduilah Khan. The arches have all fallen in but the brick piers remain, and a wooden bridge has been constructed upon them. I was told that in the spring, the water rises so high as to float away the roadway of the bridge, which is replaced when the water has fallen. After riding about eighteen miles in four hours through a well cultivated country, I arrived at Karsan, a very large village, and, through the stupidity of the messenger who had been sent ahead, had to wait sometime in the dark streets of the bazaar, so that it was nearly midnight before I could find the place prepared for me. I was at last admitted to the garden of a mosque, where I had supper, and, for the first time, found it almost too cool to sleep in the open air. It is difficult to exaggerate the unpleasantness of the jour- ney from Karshi to Bukhara. During the whole distance, after leaving Karsan, there is absolutely nothing but sand and a few ruined stations over wells of bad water, which date, as everything is said to date here, from the time of Abdullah Khan. The heat was intense, and a strong wind constantly drove the fine sand into our eyes and nostrils, and made riding very uncom- fortable. Frequently the road was so drifted over with sand as THE KARSHI DESERT. 81 to be entirely lost, although there was usually visible in the dis- tance the dome of some cistern, or some natural object, by which to mark the way. Fortunately for me, tents had been erected at most of the stations, and other preparations had been made to receive me, with plenty of fresh water, fruits, and eatables ; but for this I should have found the journey very difficult. It was necessary to ride as much as possible early in the morning, and then, resting at some station during the heat of the day, to travel again in the evening. As I had with me the arba for my luggage I could, when too tired, lie down in that, spread a piece of felt to keep the sun and wind out, and get a little sleep. The stations are still the same as those given in the list of Khanikof. On the morning of the second day, I arrived at the large station of Karaul, the Caravanserai of which is in tolerably good repair ; it consists of a number of vaulted rooms, sur- mounted by low domes, around a square court. I found here a large guard ; — I had had an escort for the two last stations on account of the supposed danger from the Turkomans, who, it is said, at times make raids on the caravans going to Bukhara. Preparations were being made here to receive the Amir, who was on his way to Karshi and Shahrisabs. We had been told along the road that he had already left Bukhara for the gardens, and that he was expected here in five or six days' time, but about noon a man came to say that the Amir was some eighteen miles from the station of Karaul, and that if I wished to see him I must either go at once or wait there until the morning. I sent back word that when it got a little cooler toward evening, I would come to the Amirs camp, but that had I known he was coming I would have waited for him in Karshi. A couple of hours after, the man returned with an answer, saying that his message was not believed. "When I finally summoned up courage to brave the heat, I found that the advance guard of the Amir had just arrived, and for fully five miles I passed large bodies of troops straggling on at intervals, I should think about 8,000 men in all. It was a most curious army, — men in every kind of uniform, some on foot, some on horses, camels, or donkeys, often several on one animal, and as they were on the march, of course keeping no order. Most of the men were armed with matchlocks, but a few had flint and VOL. II. G 82 TUEKlSTAi T . percussion muskets, and many pikes and swords. There. were several cannon, the smaller pieces being dismounted and carried on camels, and there were three large heavy guns, drawn by horses and camels. The troop of young nobles, part of the special body-guard of the Amir, displayed more order, and were much more richly dressed. They had with them a band, com- posed of a large number of drums, trumpets, and clarionets, and displayed many banners, one of them, I remember, being a red tea-pot on a white ground. There were many Afghans among the soldiers, recognisable at once not only by their fea- tures but by their long black hair. One of them began to threaten and revile us, and it was with difficulty that the officials with us prevented a conflict. At last, after passing over some low rocky hills, and marching through deep sand, we saw before us some pools of brackish water looking like silver in the sunset, and near by the guard of the Amir regularly drawn up near a mud enclosure, where he kept those of his harem who were selected to travel with him. After passing the artillery, I was shown to a small green t^nt at a little distance from the lest of the camp, and tea, fruit and pilaf were immediately brought to me. The Mirza-bashi, or Secretary of the Amir, and Mohammed Sherif Taksaba, 1 a son of the Kush-Begi or Grand Vizier, came to see me. After answer- ing the Taksaba's numerous inquiries, I told him I had a letter to the Amir from General Abramof, but that it was in my arba, which had not yet arrived, and that I would send it to him as soon as it came. He said ' No,' — I had better deliver it myself to the Amir, who would receive me for that purpose. Being very tired, I soon went to sleep, although my rest was broken at intervals by the noise and singing of the soldiers. I was awakened at four o'clock by the Mirza-bashi with the statement that the Amir was desirous of starting at once for Karshi, and that he wished to see me before going, so that I must dress and go to him immediately. After making myself ready, I was told to wait until I was sent for. I waited in vain until 9 o'clock with increasing ill-humour, when I sent for the Taksaba, to ask the reason of this delay. He came to me im- 1 Tdksaba is a rank nearly equivalent to colonel. Mohammed Sherif, besides being in attendance on the Amir in case of the reception of foreigners, was the ohief Zekatchi, or customs collector. MOZAFFAR-EDDIN, AMIR OF BUKHARA. INTERVIEW WITH THE AMIR. 83 mediately and said that the Amir was taking a nap, and that the delay was entirely my fault ; that the Amir had been very anxious to see me the night before, but had not done so because I had not my letter of introduction with me ; and that he, the Taksaba, had come to me early in the morning, but had feared to wake me ; and that the Amir was waiting here a whole day, merely to suit my convenience. I replied that, I was only waiting for the Amir, and gave him my letter of introduction, which he carried off, saying that he thought that the Amir would receive me after he had breakfasted and finished his morning business ; meanwhile, I was requested not to leave my tent. At last about noon, we were told that the Amir was awake, and was bathing, and in about half an hour, I was sent for. As the distance was very short, we walked ; but as there was no other shelter from the sun, I raised my umbrella, which seemed to displease the Taksaba, who considered it, perhaps, an infringement of the Amir's prerogatives. However, in spite of all his remonstrances, I kept it up until I reached the door of the Amir's tent, for I was convinced that the more I asserted my dignity and stood up for my rights, the better I should get on. I think that I was right. As I drew near, the masters of ceremonies with their long wands, uttered the usual loud cry, ' Khuclai Hazreti Amirni Mozaffar Mansul Kylsun ' — ' Grod make his majesty the Amir Mozaffar powerful and victorious.' On such occasions it is usual for the masters of ceremonies to drag along the person who is to be presented to the Amir, but my presentation being somewhat informal, they contented themselves with merely touching my arm. The officials re- mained outside, and I and my interpreter entered alone. The Amir was kneeling on a broad low bedstead, raised a few inches from the floor, and covered with silken cushions, there being no other furniture in the tent except a few rugs and cushions. As I entered he turned, and smilingly held out his hand, took mine, and said, ' General Aman ? ' ' Is the General well ? ' I replied, ' Aman,'' ' he is well.' He then gave his hand to the interpreter, and motioned to us to sit down facing him at the end of the tent on the right of the entrance. Supposing it to be etiquette that he should speak first, I kept silence, and had leisure to observe him. He was a tall, stout man, with sallow complexion, and small, dark, uneasy eyes, G 2 84 TURKISTAN. which he kept turning in all directions. His flesh looked very flabby and unhealthy, and his hands trembled constantly throughout the interview, as I have been told, from a too frequent use of aphrodisiacs. His beard is very dark, but rather thin. He "wore a plain grey silk gown and a white turban. After waiting in vain for him to speak, and finding the silence growing awkward, I said, ' I have come with a letter from General Abramof.' ' Yes, I received it,' he replied. 6 1 have been in Kitab, Shaar, and Karshi, where I was very well received, and passed the time very pleasantly. ' I am glad you were pleased. I am glad you came.' ' I wish now to go to Bukhara, Kara-kul, and Tchardjui, and then back to Samarkand.' ' You must consider this country as your own, and travel where you wish. Gro to Bukhara, Kara-kul, and Tchardjui, and be our guest, and pass the time pleasantly. The Taksaba will make all arrangements for you.' I thanked him for this permission, and waited a moment longer. He began to look uneasily towards the door, the Taksaba appeared, and the Amir said, s Now go ; ' upon which we immediately took our leave. On the way home I told the Taksaba that the Amir had given me permission to go to Tchardjui, and he said that he had himself heard it. I was particular in saying this to him, because I knew that no Russian had been allowed to go there, and I had been astonished at having so readily obtained permission. In connection with this interview, I may say that, after I had returned to Samarkand, a report came from Bukhara that the Amir was very much dissatisfied with me, alleging as the reason that I had squeezed his hand too hard on being presented to him. Mozaffar-Eddin, although without the sternness and strength of character of his father Nasrullah, inherited his cruel and capricious disposition. His subjects detest him, and more than that, believe him to be gifted with the evil eye ; so that, on meeting him, or coming into his presence, they always secretly make the sign which avails as a countercharm. In these annual journeys to Karshi and Shahrisabs, he is always accompanied by his army, not so much to protect himself from APPEOACH TO BUKHARA. 85 actual violence, as to assure himself of its fidelity, and to prevent a discontented son, or a rebellious Bek, from winning its favour while he is away, and shutting him out of the capital. He likes also to wreak his vengeance on the inhabi- tants of Shahrisabs by subjecting them to the inconveniences caused by the presence of a large body of troops, and to the exactions of the soldiery. I had packed up, and made preparations for starting off, when the presents from the Amir arrived, consisting of four gowns and a richly caparisoned horse. The Taksaba told me that the Amir had a garden at Kakan, six miles from Bukhara, and another twelve miles off, and asked in which I preferred to live. I was prepared for this question, for I had been told that an effort would probably be made to prevent me from living in the town, where I could too easily learn all that went on. As I was anxious to see as much as I could, and did not wish a long ride every day, I told him that I should prefer living in the city itself, at which I think he was not very well pleased ; but after reflecting a moment, he said that he himself had a house there, and would be very glad if I would live in it, and that he would send a man to prepare it for me. This camp was about ten miles from the city wall, and after riding two or three miles, we came to gardens and fields which surrounded the city. The walls and enclosures seemed to be better, but the trees we're smaller and not so thickly planted as in the suburbs of Tashkent and Samarkand. As we approached the city, the number of people we met constantly increased ; peasants, merchants, and mullahs, on foot, on horses, and on asses. It was bazaar day, and everyone was coming away loaded with purchases. We passed village after village, and indeed the whole. road, from the numbers of small booths and shops, seemed to be one long bazaar. At last we saw on the left the blue dome of the mosque Namazga standing out from its green garden, and before us rose the high clay walls of the city. The gate Sallia-Khani was com- paratively modern in appearance, and surmounted by two large towers of burnt bricks. We rode on through narrow streets paved with hard clay mixed with small stones — almost as good at this season as a Macadamised road — along the canal, and through the bazaar, where a dense crowd collected about me in astonishment 86 TTJRKISTAN. and almost prevented my passage. We passed many mosques and medresses, and rode through the Righistan with its markets, the ark or citadel looming up to my right, and through more narrow streets, almost to the city wall near the Uglan gate, where I found the house intended for me. After o-oino- through a narrow passage, there was a large court to the left intended for horses, and then we passed into another, two sides of which were occupied by the house; on the third were sheds, which were usually rilled with horses. Two large rooms were given to me on the tipper floor, with a large balcony, and I was provided with chairs and a table, although the table was so low that I was compelled to turn the chairs on one side, in order to restore anything like proportion. At the end of my balcony was a large store room containing clothes, silk mattresses and pillows, bread, muskets, and other weapons, harness and saddle cloths, and jars of various sweets. The ground floor was occupied by the Mirzas and men of the house, and was also used as the kitchen. The house did not belong to the Taksaba, as he had informed me, but to a different man, who subsequently made my acquaintance, and it has been of late the residence of many Eussians who have visited Bukhara. During the week that I spent at Bukhara, my days all passed in very much the same way. In the early morning I either made or received visits, then rode through the town and visited the mosques and medresses, or lounged about the bazaar. In the evening an entertainment of some kind, usually dancing, was provided for me, and nearly always some ac- quaintances were present. Already in Khokand I had got very tired of native food, — pilaf, and greasy, fried or stewed, mutton, — and had taken measures to have a slight change ; but with only mutton, although the most excellent I have ever eaten, and old tough chickens to choose from, my menu could not be very varied, especially as there was no butter, nor any variety of vegetables or seasoning. I taught my servants how to prepare stewed kidneys, mutton chops, eggs in various ways, and liver with tallow — the nearest obtainable substitute for bacon — and I managed at all events to eat with considerable relish. By tallow I do not mean candles, but the fat of the kurdiuk, or rumps of the so-called big-tailed sheep, which is by far the most delicate portion of the animal. The early NEIGHBOURLY CURIOSITY. 87 melons were now all gone, but those of midsummer were coming in, usually much larger, and of much firmer flesh, and equally good. Peaches of two kinds were plentiful, as were grapes of all varieties, although not equalling those of the Crimea or of Western Europe. The Husseini andSahibi grapes were especially good; the celebrated Bukhariot plums which were coming in season struck me as being hard and acid ; but the purple figs, which I tasted for the first time, were delicious. Flowers also seemed very plentiful, for a fresh bouquet was brought to me two or three times a day, and the natives, who are" very fond of flowers, had little sprigs of mint, or other plants, stuck in their caps over their ears. I had always been warned against the water of Bukhara, which is very apt to give one the reslda, a disagreeable worm, that makes its appearance through the flesh a year after- wards; but I was told that fresh water had just arrived at Bukhara, the dyke at Samarkand having been repaired, and that as I could also have well water, there would be no danger. I gave orders, however, to have the water always boiled before giving it to me, although I suspect my commands were not in all cases carried out. I looked uneasily the next summer for the appearance of the unpleasant creature in one of my legs, but fortunately escaped an attack. The water from the ponds must certainly be very unhealthy. Besides my own servants, there were several attached to the house, and three or four secretaries, under whose special charge I was>and who had orders to accompany me wherever I went. Gene- rally speaking, they were very polite, and did not seem to object to my seeing any part of the city, or anything which I wished. The walls of the Bukharan houses always shut out one's neighbours, but the fiat roofs afford a good opportunity for looking into another court, if one desires to take advantage of it ; and as there had been a great deal of curiosity to see me, and especially to witness the dances and other entertainments which were provided for me, the surrounding roofs and walls were always covered with a crowd of women and children ; and many a time I found the black horse-hair veil which usually concealed their faces uplifted, and had a chance of seeing the beauty, or rather the lack of it, of the Bukharan women. 88 TUKKISTAN. I myself usually slept in a room, on a camp bedstead which J had brought with me, but my interpreter lay on the balcony outside. One evening we were annoyed by some stones or clods of earth being thrown, and my interpreter's bed was struck with one of them ; after this, we had the roof patrolled, to keep off intruders. I was not sure, however, whether this missile was intended as an act of hostility or as a friendly signal. One evening, I was taken to a garden of the Amir, just out- side the Uglan gate, where it was proposed to show me a ram- fight. The garden, though a very large one, and occasionally used by the Amir during the summer season, was not in a flourishing condition, owing to the lack of water, the trees being all small, and the vines unhealthy looking. Eam-fighting is a favourite amusement among the Uzbeks, but of late years it has somewhat fallen into disuse, and bets are readily made and taken, in spite of the strict injunctions of the Mussulman law against that practice. On this occasion the fight was unsuc- cessful. Four large and excellent rams were introduced, and went at one another with great delight, but after one or two butts, three of them retired, and could not be brought up again to the mark ; they were willing to engage with each other, but the moment the largest, the victor, appeared, they imme- diately turned tail and fled. I am not surprised at the high idea Asiatics entertain of Bukhara — it is officially called al sherif, the noble, although pro- bably from religious reasons — for in spite of all its discomforts, it made upon me a very strong and a very pleasant impression. You cannot walk the street without seeing at once that it is really a capital ; the persons at leisure, well dressed, and riding well groomed and richly caparisoned horses, the crowd of idlers who beset the market place, even the very narrowness of the streets and height of the houses, the numerous bazaars, and the great amount of trade which is constantly going on there, every day seeming like a bazaar day, show you that this is a metropolis. For a Central Asiatic, and especially for one coming from the steppes, even the mild amusements allowed in Bukhara are not despicable. There are plenty of mosques in which to pray, and praying seems to be done as much for pastime as anything else. There are plenty of shops at which to gossip, and ex- cellent baths, and even, from all that I could learn, establish- THE RIGHISTAN. 89 ments of a worse character. In general the cities of Central Asia are all alike, the same crooked streets, the same high clay walls, the very colour of which at last offends your eyes, the same windowless houses, with flat roofs everywhere ; but Bukhara seems to have more individualit} 7 than the others; the houses are more commonly of two stories, and frequently have balconies with lattices or carved railings. There seem to be very few gardens, and trees even are very rare, except about the ponds of the mosques and along one or two of the canals, thus giving the city a very different look from Tashkent or Ivhokand. In my morning rides I was able to see almost every part of the town, and to inspect all the buildings that were interesting, either historically or architecturally. The mirzas who went with me used to be somewhat astonished at my being able to find the way, or even to tell them in which direction I should go in order to reach a certain gate or mosque ; and once or twice the Kush-Begi sent to know how I knew of the existence of certain localities ; they were not aware that I had with me the excellent plan of Khanikof, 1 if indeed they could under- stand its existence. At a short distance from my house, at the north-west side of the town, was the Righistan or public place, which is im- mediately in front of the ark or citadel, and is surrounded by fine large mosques and medresses. On the west side of it, which is raised above the rest, — a locality greatly frequented by loungers — there is a large pond surrounded by trees, about which are placed barbers' shops, tea houses, and refreshment booths of various kinds. The rest of the square seems to be a general market for bakers and butchers, dealers in skins, and small wares of various kinds. It is the real centre of the city, and from sunrise until evening prayer, is filled by a great throng. To the right of the citadel, close under its lofty walls, lie many pieces of cannon, of which some few seem to be good, although the most of them are utterly worthless. Some 1 Inserted in his 'Description of the Khanate of Bukhara.' The name Buk- hara is derived from the Sanskrit Vihara, a Beunion of Wise Men, a Monastery, and, like several other names in Central Asia, is a relic of Buddhist influence. In earlier times, and even in the sixth century, as we find in Chinese authors, the place was called Nurni, or Numijket. In Appendix II., at the end of Vol. I., will ba found an article of Professor Grigorief on the ' History of Bukhara.' 90 TURKISTAN. had been captured in Khokand, and as Jiey bear dragon 3 and other similar devices, had, probably, been previously taken from the Chinese in Kashgar. The ark itself is a large square mound, evidently artificial, for the ends of the beams on which it is constructed are occasionally visible through the clay wails. It is surrounded by a high crenelated wall, two lofty round-topped towers guard the entrance, and high above is a clock with Arabic numerals, made some years ago by Giovanni Orlandi, an Italian enslaved in Bukhara. 1 From the entrance 1 Modesto Gavazzi, who, with Count Litta and another Italian, visited Bukhara in 1863-4 for the purpose of buying silkworms eggs, and was imprisoned there by the Amir fur thirteen months, gives an interesting account of Orlandi in his littlo book, ' Alcune Notizie raccoltein un viaggio a Bucara,' Milan, 1865. Some of the facts in this statement, especially those about the Russian merchant, I have had recounted to me by Russians cognizant of the circumstances. 'His (i.e. Karataefs) predecessor as eloekmaker and artificer of the Amir was Giovanni Orlandi of Parma, about whom we collected some information from an old Negai, whom we knew in the last days of our stay in Bukhara, and who under Nasrullah had lieen the companion of this poor man in prison. Orlandi was the last European victim of Bukharan despotism, and what we have heard of him from persons who knew him is enough to render his memory venerated as a man of intelligence, of firmness of mind, and of nobility of character. Twelve or fifteen years back there lived at Orenburg a certain Z , a Russian by birth, who maintained an extended commerce with the Kirghiz Steppe and with the Khanates of Central Asia, and was reputed, not without reason, to be the richest merchant of that city, because, with a certain elasticity of conscience which was peculiar to him, he knew how to get profit from every kind of business, and to find secret and safe sources of gain. One of these was the sale to the Kirghiz of men whom he inveigled, under pretext of colonisation, to an estate of his situated on the borders of this steppe, which was from time to time invaded by bands of Kirghiz robbers, who carried off all the people stationed there and sold them as slaves in Bukhara. The infamous traffic was at last found out, Z was tried and condemned for life to Siberia ; but as in Russia gold is omnipotent, and he could dispose of much of it, it was found that he had died, although in reality he had in the meantime changed his name to avoid the punishment. Orlandi had been sent to this estate as a superintendent, and together with his companions had been carried as a slave to Bukhara and sold to the Amir. As Orlandi was a Christian and a Frcnghi, the Amir repeatedly tried to convert him to Islamism, and angry at his obstinate refusal threw him into prison, and later condemned him to death. Orlandi would not even then change his mind, but knowing that Nasrullah was a great lover of mechanical works, promised to construct lor him a machine for measuring time, and thus obtained his pardon. Orlandi then made the clock which is on the tower over the palace gate, the only one which exists in all Bukhara. Nasrullah was so satisfied with it that he appointed Orlandi his artificer, and gave him at the same time his liberty. Orlandi then lived an endurable life with the fruit of his labours, and as independently as he could under a government as capricious as that of Bukhara. During this time he made a telescope for the Amir, who unfor- THE DUNGEON OF SHEEP-TICKS. 91 there is a steep incline to the top, where are the palace of the Amir, his treasury, the house of the Kush-Begi, a mosque, the ab- kha.neh or water reservoir, which serves also as a prison for state offenders, and the Jean a-hhan eJi, that noted place of punishment into which men used to be thrown to be slowly devoured alive by sheep-ticks and other vermin. I had heard that this dungeon had been abolished ; but people in Bukhara assured me of its existence, and said that some criminals had been confined there not long before ; the story however that in the absence of prisoners the ticks are fed by raw meat to keep up their diet, is probably untrue. At the right of the entrance, under the archway, is a raised platform, where at certain hours the Kush-Begi is obliged to sit, in order to learn the business of all who enter the fortress ; during the absence of the Amir, when the Kush-Begi remains above, another officer is detailed for this duty. 1 In this passage mam r curious objects are hung on the walls, such as an immense whip seven feet long, which is said to have be- longed to the hero Rustam ; a snake-like staff of some saint ; various battle-axes and halberds ; hammers of command (ai- balta) ; a curious root brought by a Mecca pilgrim, &c. In a word, this is the Amir's museum. Passing to the right round the arJc and down through the narrow high-walled street, we came to a mosque, called Masjid Baliand, a Jumma mosque that is intended for the holding of the Jumma or Friday public service. Properly speaking such tunately one day let it fall from the top of a minaret near Bohoneddin. On re- entering the city he sent immediately tor Orlandi to repair it ; but Orlandi that day had been on a drinking bout in company with an Armenian or Hebrew who ■was allowed to drink wine, and came to the Amir a little intoxicated The Amir therefore condemned him a second time to death, but repenting shut him up again in prison, enjoining him to embrace Islam if he wished his life to be spared. A Cossack, then a slave in Bukhara, was ordered to persuade Orlandi to be con- verted, which, according to him, was the only means of saving his life. He said that a mere appearance of submission would satisfy the Amir, who wished an act of submission rather than a formal renunciation of his religion, but Orlandi was so firmly opposed to it, saying that he preferred death to shame, that the Amir resolved on a hard trial. He had the executioner cut the skin of his throat, warn- ing him that if on the morrow he should still be obstinate, he would have him killed. The threat did not move him. and the next day he -was beheaded. This happened in 1851.' 1 ' Sitting in the gate of the king ' is a very ancient cu*:om in the East, as may be seen from many passages in the st">ry of Esther, and especially from Daniel ii. 48, 49. 92 TURKISTAN. a mosque should be large enough to contain the whole popula- tion of the city, and this one will hold at least ten thousand people within sound of the preacher's voice. It is one of the largest and most solid constructions of Bukhara. The interioi consists of a large open court, surrounded by a sort of wide vaulted cloister of brick, two, and sometimes three aisles in width. The walls, especially of the sides and back, where the ground is lower, are all built of brick, supported b^ immense buttresses. The front, which is in bad repair, has a great arched portal covered with porcelain tiles set in arabesques, and the roof is surmounted by tiled domes. Opposite to this mosque, is a very tall round tower, called the manari kalian or great minaret. The surface is covered with pretty and curious designs in inlaid bricks, and on the top is now a huge stork's nest. It is sometimes used as a place of punishment, outrageous criminals being thrown from the top and dashed to pieces on the ground below. The last person thus punished was the noted robber Baban, who had taken refuge in Samarkand, and had been sent back by General Abramof in 1871. On the other side of the small square is the medresse Miri-Horab, a very large and fine building, contain- ing one hundred and ten students' rooms which open on the cor- ridors and galleries that surround the court. The vaulting of the corridors is very well done, and is inlaid in patterns with tiles and coloured bricks, and in various niches are canopies of alabaster work, similar in design to those seen in the Alhambra. After passing through the bazaar, we came to a number of large mosques and medr esses, the two largest of which are the Medresse Kukoltash, and the Medresse Divan-Begi, and opposite this latter is a large paved place with mosques on each side, surrounding a square pond known as the Liabehaus Divan- Begi. This pond, which is shaded by rows of mulberry trees, is the constant resort of the idlers and loungers of Bukhara, and is surrounded by markets, houses, and the booths of cooks and barbers. As it is so large that, according to Mohammedan ideas, the water is always pure, one may see people drinking, bathing, or performing their ablutions at any hour of the day. 1 Near by 1 The Mussulman doctrine is that a pond of water is pure for religious pur- poses, no matter what its real condition may be, if it be 10 altehins long by 10 altchins broad (23 x 23 feet), and if it contain three fingers of water, so that ia tilling the water in the hollow of tho hand the bottom cannot be seen A EUKHAEAN BATH. 93 is a medresse, called Irnazar-Eltchi, of no very imposing ap- pearance, founded by the Empress Catherine II. of Russia, who gave the sum of 40,000 rubles to build a college in Bukhara for Tartars and other Russian Mussulmans. Irnazar-Eltchi was a Bukharan envoy sent to the Empress, and the local story is that this money was given to him by Catherine after a liai- son which she had with him. On the western side of the city, near the Talipan gate, is a large medresse called Kosh Medresse Abdullah Khan, supposed to have been founded by that sove- reign, which consists of two large buildings on opposite sides of the street constructed in the usual style, with two stories and corridors about a central court. Continuing down the same street, close by the gate Sheikh-Jelal are the medresses Jubar and Hodja-Jelal, a large basin called the Haus-Van, and the cemetery Jubar. Such cemeteries are not infrequent within the walls of the town. None of the mosques and medresses in Bukhara are as old as the great and splended ruins in Samar- kand, unless perhaps the mosque Baliand, which, it is said, was built by Timur on the ruins of another, and repaired by Abdul- lah Khan ; the style of architecture is, however, the fame ; there are the same ornamental tiled fronts and blue domes, although the buildings are much lower, and minarets and towers are rare. There are many bath houses, the Bukhariots being very fond of the luxury of a hot-air bath. The best of these is situated in the bazaar, to which I was taken one night about nine o'clock, when the bazaar was already deserted, except by the watchmen, and the streets were dimly lighted by lamps slung across them on ropes at intervals. The bath itself is nearly the same as the Turkish bath, and certainly is not so good as that which one finds in civilised countries. You enter a large room surrounded by raised platforms covered with rugs, where you undress, and then, wrapping a large cloth about you, you go into the next room where the temperature is already very warm, and where are a succession of square or octagonal vaults, with niches in the sides for bathers. After remaining there some time to accustom yourself to the temperature, you are taken into the hottest room of all, where, after having water thrown over you to make you perspire, you lie on your face and are rubbed and kneaded by the bath attendant, who cracks all your joints and 94 TURKISTAK leaves you in a very weak and helpless state. After this you are taken back to the room you left and placed in one of the niches, thoroughly washed with soap and water, and again kneaded. You are then wrapped up in your cloth, and go iuto the front room, where, reclining on a cushion, you take green tea and fruit and gradually dress. There is no regular pay- ment, but you are expected to give whatever you please. This process of kneading is much liked by the Bukhariots, even with- out a bath, and often at night they have attendants to knead them until they go to sleep. The most important of the many bazaars in Bukhara are the open bazaar on the Eighistan and the bazaar of Tchar-su, which occupies the centre of the town, extending nearly from the Ark to beyond the medresse Divan-Begi. The bazaar of Tchar-su is interesting and peculiar; it has not the grandiose appearance of the bazaar at Khokand, but it in every way shows that it is an old haunt of trade. Not only are the sides of all the streets filled with shops and caravanserais for the storage of goods, but there are large numbers of timis, brick or wooden buildings with passages radiating from the centre, where goods of special kinds are sold. The timi of Abdullah Khan, for instance, is appropriated to the trade in silk, velvet, and cloth goods, while others are filled with cotton goods, shoes, caps, turbans, and knives. Bukhara is evidently the trading centre of all this region of Asia, and one sees here productions from all parts of the world. Besides the Bussian cottons and calicoes, I saw many English, and even French and German goods. The English goods are known chiefly by the name of Kabuli, on account of being imported through Afghanistan, and are sold at a slight advance only on Russian goods. As far as I noticed the English goods were chiefly manufactured by Greek firms, such as Ralli and Co., Petrococchino and Co., Schillizzi and Co., and by some Cal- cutta houses. Among miscellaneous articles, I found American re- volvers, at a price somewhat cheaper than in Tashkent. Strangely enough Russian sugar is cheaper in Bukhara than in Tashkent, and has often been re-imported to that place from Bukhara. There was at this time only one Russian merchant in Bukhara, Shmelef, the agent of the firm Bykoff Brothers , who occupies two small rooms in the Aim Sarai, and who deals not only in THE TRADE OF BUKHARA. 05 cotton goods, but particularly in small and fancy articles. He told me that most of the Russian trade was in the hands of Tar- tars, but that the openings for it are very great, although unfor- tunately neglected. A person of small means would even have an advantage over a large trader, if he lived in Bukhara, dealt in such European articles as there was a demand for, and attended to his business himself. Such a small trader could sell all his goods immediately, collect his debts at once, and turn over his capital at least three times a year, making each time a profit of fifty per cent. In Bukhara itself, for a resident trader, there is little difficulty in collecting debts, but the traders in Orenburg, Troitsk, and Petropavlovsk, who sell largely on credit to merchants coming from Bukhara, lose much money by bad debts. Unfortunately the Eussian law does not allow foreign trade to be carried on by any one except a merchant of the first guild, and the guild tax to be paid is so large as to be a burden upon a person of small means. The Russian merchants, although they adopt to a certain extent the native dress, are not subject to the same restrictions as in Khokand ; in other respects the commercial treaty is no better carried out, merchants being obliged to pay in addi- tion to the 2^ per cent, duty on exports, a further illegal duty on cotton, amounting to at least 3 per cent. 2 1 One other Russian clerk lived in Hazliduin, looking after the cotton cloth manufactured for the Russian troops. 2 In 1872 Mr. Petrofsky, the agent of the Minister of Finance, went to Bukhara for the purpose of studying its commercial relations. I quote a few- extracts from his account published in the ' European Messenger,' March 1873 : ' Bukhara is the chief point of Central Asiatic trade, and is very important to us, because the state and direction of this trade must govern our further move- ments in Central Asia. Being an important depot of Russian and Anglo-Indian ■wares, Bukhara carries on an immense and active trade with all the remaining Mussulman countries, receiving from them their local productions and supplying them in return with wares from her depots. The conditions of the Anglo-Indian trade with Bukhara we unfortunately know very little about, but we know well enough the commercial enterprise and energy of our rivals and our own Russian carelessness and disposition to let matters take their course. "Who can guarantee that with our carelessness with regard to the Bukharan market, all the trade with Central Asia will not pass into the hands of the English or the Afghans; and there are signs of it already. In that case we should of course have nothing left to do in Central Asia. My previous ideas with regard to the bazaar of Bukhara, I must admit, were far weaker than the reality. One has only to look at this bazaar, at least five times greater than that of Tashkent, with its immense cara- 96 TURKISTAN. Some of the larger shops I came to know well ; such were those of the armourers, where, in addition to chain-armour, vanserais and timis of baked brick (24 of the former and 6 of the latter) filled tc overflowing with all sorts of goods from distant India and from still more distant Moscow, with its merchants from the Peshawuri to the Kazan Tartar, to see that the Tashkent market can bear no comparison with this. From India and Afghanistan there are brought the thousand objects of the so-called Attar trade (dye stuffs and drugs), and about sixteen kinds of green tea, quantities of various cotton goods, shawls, cloth of gold, opium, earthenware, metallic manufactures and printed books. Six large caravanserais serve as store houses for Indian goods exclusively. Persia supplies Bukhara with some dye stuffs, the so-called Ma shad muslin, silver, pepper, arms, and large numbers of written and printed books. Prom Khiva there are brought fur, robes, linseed oil, mutton -tallow, wheat, rice, apples, sheep, poppy heads, copperas, and Russian goods, such as sugar, sugar-candy, iron kettles, &c. Herat sends dried fruits, furs, sheep and slaves, and Merv Turko- man horses and arms. Finally, the Bukharan bazaar is the market for all sorts of local productions. In return she sends to these countries either her own, or the productions of the neighbouring regions; to Afghanistan gold, silk, camel's hair, goat's hair, madder, silk and half-silk stuffs, Russian cloth, velvet and satin, fur, robes, horses, asses and even cats and nightingales ; to Khiva tea, tobacco, opium, silk, madder, drugs and dyed stuffs, silk and cotton goods ; to Persia, gold, lambskins, silk stuffs and Russian cloth and velvet. Even the bare enumeration of countries and goods is enough to confirm my opinion of the commercial im- portance of the Bukharan market, the yearly transactions of which are estimated at not less than forty million of rubles (5.500,000Z.). 'Without studying the commerce of Bukhara we shall never put Central Asiatic trade on a profitable footing for us, and will even perhaps finally lose it, and it will then be too late for us to repair our mistake. At present I think we can say that trade in Russian wares has here the first place, and the dependence of Bukhara on the Nizhni Novgorod fair is felt at every step. Bukhara is literally filled from top to bottom with Russian cotron goods, and there seems to me to be at least six times as much of them as of English goods. ..... ' The prices of all Russian goods in Bukhara are considerably less than at Tashkent. During my visit there the difference in price of sugar, for example, was five rubles a pud (in Bukhara eleven, and in Tashkent sixteen) ; they say that the difference is even greater ' All the trade in Russian goods at Bukhara is carried on either by the natives or by Tartars.' Mr. Petrofsky goes on to speak of the disadvantage to Russian trade of this condition of things. He is of opinion that it would be better for the Russians themselves to take their goods to Bukhara than to sell them at Moscow, Orenburg and Troitsk to Bukharan merchants, whose credit cannot be guaranteed and who frequently do not pay their debts. ' The tea trade in Bukhara has passed entirely out of our hands. Immense caravans (of even 5,000 camels) of green tea yearly come to Bukhara from Afghanistan, and their loads are distributed through Bukharan possessions, Turkoman Steppes, go to Khiva, and penetrate even to Khokand and Russian Turkistan. There is literally no black tea to be found. The stores of green tea in Bukhara are immense. It is impossible for Russian teas to compete with them. THE LIBRAE Y OF TDJTE. 97 matchlocks, and Khorasan blades, I found good American revolvers no dearer than at Samarkand, of the jewellers and the silk merchants, the booksellers and the dealers in Turko- man and Persian rugs and carpets. After exhausting the shops I accepted the suggestion of one of the Alirzas to have things brought to my house, and every afternoon, therefore, I had visits from dealers in silks, books, coins, and gems. Coins were held at a high valuation, from some mistaken idea of their worth. Among those which I procured were some good specimens of Demetrius, Euthydemus, and other rulers of the Gra;co-Bactrian dynasty, as well as of the rude contemporary imitations struck in the neighbouring countries ; pieces of the Golden Horde, of Timur, and of Afghan and Persian monarchs. One remarkable and unique silver coin (now in the Asiatic Museum at St. Petersburg), originally struck by one of the Timurides, bore one mint mark of Baber at Samarkand in 903, and another of the date of 904, stamped by Sultan Ali Alirza, who expelled Baber from the city after his seven months' occu- pation of it. I obtained also a few gems with Pehlevi and Cufic inscriptions, and one with a finely cut female head of Greek workmanship. It seemed to me that books were unwillingly sold to an ' infidel,' and I was sure that many I wanted were concealed from me. Nevertheless, I obtained some relating to the history of Bukhara which are more or less rare in Europe ; and one — ' Lives of the Bukharan Saints ' — which was apparently un- known. I was told that in the Treasury of the Amir there are many books, written in languages unknown to the learned men of Bukhara, which for that reason lie neglected. These books are said to have come down from very ancient times. It immediately occurred to me that they might be a remnant of the famous library said to have been carried off from Brussa by Timur, the fate of which has so long excited the curiosity of scholars. It is long since Bukhara was sacked, so that it is both on account of their comparative clearness and because the market is already occupied. It only remains for us now to ke<=p this tea out of our dominions, giving up all hope of crowding it out of Bukhara. What I hare said above refers onlv to green tea. As for brick tea. viz. apple tea (alma tchai), I make an exception. The tnergy of our merchants will, perhaps, succeed in crowding this tea out of . Bukhara by means of the better quality which we receive from Eiakhla.' VOL. II. H 98 TURKISTAN. possible that unknown literary treasures may exist there, and the story of Timur's library ought not yet to be regarded as wholly mythical — the fantasy of some Armenian monk. My imagination was haunted with visions of lost classics, but unfor- tunately, in the absence of the Amir at Karshi, it was impos- sible to get a sight of the books. By a little strategy these volumes might, perhaps, be obtained, but many precautions should be observed ; lest, with the usual suspicion of Asiatics, the Bukharan authorities imagine that the books are valuable, and conceal or destroy them. In general I travelled in European dress, once or twice only putting on a turban and robe to visit the bazaar, but finding no special advantage in so doing, as from my not speaking the language I was immediately known to be a foreigner. One an- noyance was that I was constantly surrounded by a crowd, which hindered my movements, although it was frequently driven back by the attendant Mirzas. I was usually treated with civility, but I occasionally met with insult and abuse, and there certainly was not the same respect and politeness paid to me as at Shahrisabs and Karshi ; in fact in all the towns, that had been occupied, even for a day, by the Eussian troops, the behaviour of the inhabitants was much more re- spectful. What greatly pleased me at Bukhara was being able to talk comfortably with all sorts of people. I often stopped in a shop at the bazaar for twenty minutes or half-an-hour ; in the sarai of my Eussian friend, I met Bukharans, Persians, and other Asiatics, who were always willing to talk on almost any subject. I liked much going into a Hindoo sarai, thinking that possibly I might find some one who spoke English, but my efforts in that : direction were vain, although the Hindoos were all glad to see me, and to talk with me. In my bargainings at home I had occasion to see the display of great varieties of character. Then too, I had visits from various personages, official and other, and I somehow managed to hear all that was going on that was worth knowing. Since I found out that my talk was repeated from one to another, — occasionally something I had said in the morning, came back to me at night from the fourth or fifth person, — and as everything I said or did was immedi- ately reported to the Kush-Begi and often with variations, I' BUKHARAN ACQUAINTANCES. 90 took a special pleasure in letting out all I had heard, and in showing as much knowledge 'as 1 could about Bukharan affairs. I had been, to some extent, informed in Tashkent, about the principal personages I should be likely to meet, and I have no doubt that I often surprised them by some of my revelations. As I knew of course that no end of lies were being told to me, I sometimes invented a little myself in order to get at the truth, and professed myself interested in a great many subjects, which I had no care for, in order to obtain geographical and political information. One of the Mirzas with me could, I was told, speak Russian ; but he took great pains to conceal that accomplishment from me, his self-composure not deserting him even when I suddenly addressed him in that language. Among the persons with whom I was brought in contact the Kush-Begi, Mohammedi Bii, was of course the most promi- nent. The day after my arrival, I paid him a formal visit, in the citadel. He was an old man of about sixty-five, still hale and hearty, with a full grey beard and a very kindly eye and face. He was a Persian by birth, and in his youth had been a slave, having become free by marrying one of the cast-off wives of the Amir. Although I had occasion to have several disputes with him, and had no doubt that he was a cunning old rascal, his bonhommie was such that it was impossible to be angry with him, and we parted the best of friends. He was exceed- ingly talkative, and ready not only to ask but to answer ques- tions, and on both my visits he kept me more than an hour. His son, the Taksaba, Mohammed Sherif, was of a far different character. Though personally a handsome man, with his black beard and finely cut features, he had a face which at once made me suspicious and on my guard ; his restless eyes never looked at me directly, and in his talk he was always evading the point. With all that, he was, as everybody told me, even his official friends, very stupid ; at all events, he was not bright enough to be consistent in his lying for ten minutes at a time. My friend, the Russian merchant Shmelef, was of a very different stamp, simple and frank, with long, frousy hair and grizzly beard. Disliking all the natives and thinking them utter rascals, he had yet been so long in Bukhara, that he told me he felt ill at ease when he went back to Russia, and he lived much as the natives themselves do. His assis- H 2 ] 00 TUEKISTAN. tant, an intelligent, handsome Tartar, named Muruk, was one of the best specimens of a civilised Mussulman of the mer- cantile class that I have met. A strong believer in his own religion, he was tolerant of that of others, and was willing even to admit the ridiculous side of some parts of bis own belief. He had seen something of the world, and was an exceedingly good man to show one the under side of Bukharan life. There was another Tartar there, Karataef (called in Buk hara Usta-Ali), who had become bankrupt in Eussia, and had run away, twenty years before. Here he entered the service of a merchant ; but when he wanted to return to Eussia, he was forcibly retained by the Amir, and when he attempted to escape, was caught and brought back. He is a clockmaker by trade, but his chief employment now is that of confidential secretary to the Amir. Knowing Eussia as well as he does, he has been able to give the Amir much good counsel and has pre- vented many difficulties. It was he who saved the lives and alleviated the captivity of the Eussian Envoys sent by General Tchernaief in 1865. He is, however, heartily tired of this uncivilised country, and of the role which he is playing there, and has expressed a desire to apply to the authorities at Tashkent to have his offences condoned, and to be allowed to return to Eussia. By the Bukharan politicians I was looked upon as a spy ; and no one was willing to believe the truth of my statements as to who I actually was ; but the authorities made every inquiry of all my servants, and even tried to bribe my interpreter to tell them the exact truth. I have no doubt that my conduct, in some respects, helped on this belief, for I had two disputes with the authorities which, as they show the methods of Bukhariot diplomacy, I will recount with some detail. In visiting Bukhara I was especially anxious to learn something about the slave trade, and if possible to see for myself what was going on. The Eussian authorities had ex- pressed their desire that the slave trade should cease, and had been of course informed by the Bukharians that it had long since come to an end. Nearly all the Eussian officials who had been in Bukhara had been deceived in this respect, and an official report had been made to General Kaufmann that the slave trade no longer existed there. Merchants, however, told me BUYING A SLAVE. 101 that they had frequently seen public sales of slaves in the bazaar, and my interpreter said that, on two visits to Bukhara during - the preceding year, he had seen the slave market tilled with Persians who were dying of cholera and hunger, for, in the panic caused by the epidemic, they had not been fed ; and the Agent of the Ministry of Finance had been able, in the spring of 1872, to see slaves publicly exposed for sale. He had made a report of this, but the matter had been passed over without notice by the Russian authorities. I knew very well that if I said to the Taksaba, or to any of the Mirzas with me, that I was going to the slave market, measures would be taken to shut it up, and I should be assured that nothing of the kind existed there. I therefore said to the Tartar Muruk, one day when I was at tea in the Aim-sarai, that I should like to see the slave market, and he offered to take me at once, as it was in the immediate vicinity. We started out, without telling where we were going, and although the Mirzas followed after, they were not in time to prevent us. Entering into a large sarai, we went upstairs into a gallery, and found several rooms, some of which were locked, and a number of slaves — two little girls of about four years old, two or three boys of different ages, and a number of old men — all Persians. There were no women, either young or old, such being bought up immediately on arrival. The slaves were shown to me by an old Turkoman, who acted as broker, and who told me that the market was rather dull just then, but that a large caravan would probably arrive in the course of a few days. Without the slightest idea of purchasing, but out of curiosity to see how a sale was conducted, I asked the price of one of the boys, a lively looking lad of fifteen, who had been stolen only five months before from near Astrabad. I was immediately asked to take a seat on a mat, and the room soon filled with people, all of whom seemed to take much more interest in the sale than did the boy himself, who did not understand what was being said, the conversation being in Turki. The first price asked was more than 1,000 tengas ( 30£.), which I gradually reduced to 850 tengas {251.) ; the seller constantly dilating on the good points of the boy, what an excellent jigit he would make, and so on, the bystanders joining in on one side or the other. Mean- while, I asked one of the men how be dared sell a Mohammedan J 02 TUEKISTAN. as a slave, when he, as a Mullah, knew that it was strictly pro- hibited by the Shariat. To this he indignantly replied, ' He is not a Mussulman, he is only a Persian, a Kaffir. All Persians are Kaffirs and unbelievers.' It seems that some Mullah, in order to legalise the sale, had declared that the Persian Shiites were not heretics, a? they are regarded by the Turks and other Mussulmans, but were absolutely infidels. I thought that 850 tengas was too much to pay for the lad, especially as I had no desire to buy him ; at the same time, the wistful looks of the boy, who seemed very anxious to be bought, smote my conscience a little, and I asked for the refusal of him at that price, which was given. We then looked about in the other rooms to find some more slaves, but were unsuccessful. On my return to the Aim-sarai, I thought the matter over, and finally concluded to purchase the boy, take him with me to Russia, and, if an opportunity offered, send him back to his friends at Astrabacl. I, therefore, sent one of the Mirzas aftei the boy, saying that I had concluded to take him. He returned bringing him, and with him came another broker, a swarthy, thick-set fellow, from Kara-kul, a well-known slave dealer. But now a difference arose ; the broker said that some one else had agreed to pay 900 tengas (271.), and to give in addition two gowns, and besides this, that the real owner was not there, and that the other broker had no right to sell him to me. Finally, after a long argument I persuaded the broker to give me the boy, to take a portion of the price as hand-money, and to refer the dispute to the Taksaba, who, as chief overseer of the bazaar, had the settlement of all such matters. As I afterwards found to my cost, it was very stupid in me not to retain possession of the boy, for I sent him by the Mirza, together with the broker, to the Taksaba. When the Mirza came to me on reaching home, he informed me that the Taksaba had decided in my favour, and that the price which I had agreed to give was the correct one, that the boy was a nice fellow, and well worth the money, and that he had given orders that he should be delivered to me at six o'clock. At six o'clock the boy did not come, so I sent the Mirza after him. He stayed away a long time, and at last came THE TAKSABAS .DUPLICITY. 103 back with a long story, saying that the master of the boy had gone away, he believed out of town, for some circumcision feast, but that it would be all right in the morning. In the morning the boy did not make his appearance, but an official did, sent by the Taksaba to ask after my health and to know if there was anything he could do for me. After a long conversation with him on various matters, during which I took occasion to compliment the Taksaba and the Kush-Begi, knowing very well that it would be repeated to them and might render them more obliging, I asked about the boy and insisted upon having him. The Mirza professed to know nothing about the affair, but said that the Taksaba wished him to tell me that he would himself call and see me in the after- noon. As the afternoon, however, passed without his visit, I asked the Mirza if he were not coming ; he immediately sent a messenger to him, who returned with the answer that he regretted very much his inability to come, but that he was very ill, the reshta having suddenly declared itself upon one of his legs. As I knew that he had been riding about the bazaar all day, and had seen him myself in excellent health in the street that morning, although he did not notice me, I thought it rather strange that such a lingering and gradual illness, should have become at once so violent, and sent the Mirza back to say that I regretted extremely to hear that he was ill, but hoped that his malady would soon pass, and that, as I was unable to see him upon the subject of the slave boy whom I had bought, and who had not, in compliance with his orders, been delivered to me, I should be obliged to at once go to his father, the Kush-Begi, and demand an explanation. I had barely finished my dinner, when the Taksaba appeared, accompanied by a venerable white-bearded man, who, as I found out, understood Eussian perfectly, and had come to listen to what I said to my interpreter. The Taksaba limped very much as he came up the stairs, and pretended to be in great agony. After much general conversation, I broached the subject of the boy. 'Yes,' he said, ' they brought the boy to me, and told me about it ; he is a very nice boy, but un- fortunately he has run away ! ' I expressed my surprise at this, for the boy knew that he was going to be freed, and wished me to buy him. ] 04 TUEKTSTAN. He said he trusted I did not doubt bis word. 6 Certainly not,' I replied ; ' still, it seems to be very strange. In reply to this remark, he said that people had frightened the boy, by telling him that Greneral Kaufmann had freed all the slaves in Khiva, and that they were, probably, all going to be freed in Bukhara, and that on account of this story he had run away. This was so amusing that I burst out into a laugh, which seemed to discompose him. He said that he knew Greneral Abrarnof, and Greneral Kaufmann, but that me he did not know ; he had only received a letter about me, and he did not think that General Kaufmann would at all approve of my buying a slave here. Whereupon I said that I also knew these gentlemen, that his acquaintance with Kussian generals was notbing to me, nor did it matter to him who I was, that I had been at the bazaar, and had seen merchandise publicly exposed for sale, and had bought it ; and tbat all I wished to know of him as overseer of the bazaar was whether he allowed his merchants to refuse to fulfil their agreements. He then said that the boy's master had become frightened at a foreigner having bought him, and had taken him back to Tcbardjui; at which I said that this seemed very strange, because sellers are always glad of a good bargain, and he him- self bad said that what I had offered was a fair price, especially in the dull season. After some more talk of this kind, the Taksaba said that the slave trade was about to stop, and that he was sorry I did this without asking his permission. I told him that I had not come there to interfere with their commerce, and that I did not know why I, as well as any one else, had not the right to purchase articles openly exposed for sale at the bazaar, without asking the permission of any one. He again said that the slave trade had stopped, that these were only some few ' remnants ' that were being sold — evidently in fear lest I should be able to prove by means of the boy the actual existence of the trade. I told him that I did not doubt his words, although, at the same time, it appeared very strange to me in this case, that when a caravan of sixty slaves had arrived at Bukhaia the THE MIRZAS LIE. 105 night before, at nine o'clock, lie himself had given order that it should remain outside the Kara-kul gate, in order that I should not see it. The Taksaba was so much confused at my knowing this so soon, that he was only able to stammer, and say that if they found the boy, they would be very glad to send him to me, and that, of course, I should pay nothing for him, for they would make me a present of him ; that if [ had only told him before about it, he would have given me ten slaves, or if I had even sent the boy to him, he would have arranged the matter, but that as he knew nothing about it until that evening, he of course had been unable to take any steps in the matter. I was rather astonished at this denial of what he had pre- viously said, and called on the Mirzas who were present, to corroborate my words ; but they, as was very natural, although it rather surprised me at the time, denied they had spoken to him on the subject, or that I had sent them, or that they had even seen the boy. When I afterwards privately demanded an explanation of the Mirzas, they admitted that they had lied, but said, * You know he is our master, and of course we must say what he wishes.' At the moment I was very angry, though I endeavoured to keep within moderation, and the Taksaba remarked that it was evident I did not believe him, when he said that he had nothing to do with it, and had given no orders to hide the boy, and added, in a regretful tone, that he had come to be merry with me, and ease his pain, but that he felt insidted by my words. I told him I regretted this very much, that it was ex- ceedingly disagreeable for me to speak to him about business, but that I thought that the boy could be found, as I knew very well that a man so high in position as he must know all that passed in Bukhara, that it was very difficult for slaves to escape, as the penalty by law was death, and that I expected he would send me the boy by eight o'clock in the morning, for, if I did not receive him, I might be obliged to take steps which might be disagreeable to him. He at last turned the conversation, by asking if I had any curious European things to show him. I was sorry to tell him, that, as I had left St. Petersburg very hurriedly, I had brought almost nothing with me, but finally produced my air- 106 TUEKISTAN. cushion, which I showed to him, and asked him to accept, as it would be good for his leg, he having just described to me the symptoms of his illness ; and with that we parted. The next morning the Taksaba, as usual, sent a man to talk with me, and find out all that I was doing ; and I after- wards went to the bazaar by a round-about way, and sent Andrei in native dress to the slave market. He found there one boy and the two little girls, and his visit was, apparently, unsuspected. I then sent him to the Taksaba, to stir him up on the subject. He offered Andrei a piece of silk as a present, and 150 tengas in money, and told him to persuade me not to be so hard on them, and to endeavour to put me in better humour. As regards the boy, he beat about the bush. I was informed in another way, that he w s waiting for an answei from the Amir, to whom he had written on the subject, to know if the boy should be delivered to me. I told Andrei that he should make no difficulty about accepting all the bribes that were offered to him, as it might allay suspicion, but only on condition that he should tell me all that occurred. The next day the Taksaba himself came to me, with his Eussian interpreter ; we had another talk about the boy, in which he utterly denied having seen him, or having made the statements which he had made to me two days before. This was said in such a way as to make me very angry, and I immediately rose and told him that I could not permit him to lie to my face, that I saw there was no use talking to him any further, and that I desired no further intercourse with him. At this he was taken very much aback, and, as I afterwards heard, said that I evidently did not understand the Bukharan mode of doing things. It is, I believe, considered impolite to remember what a man has said five minutes before, if it be contradicted by anything he says five minutes after. That same day, after sending off the Mirzas for something else, I went to the slave market myself, but found that one of the Mirzas had been too quick for me, and was there before me ; the whole place was shut up, not a slave was visible, and the Turkoman trader, with whom I had made my first bargain, denied ever having seen me, or ever having had the boy whom I described ; but after some pressure, he confessed that the ANOTHER SLAVE BOUGHT. 107 master of the boy bad taken him away by order of the authorities. I was convinced by my first conversation with the Taksaba, that it would be impossible for me to obtain the boy back, but resolving not to be outwitted by him, I made up my mind to purchase another, if it were possible to do so. I knew very well, and indeed I had been so informed, that the authorities were very fearful that I should show the boy in Samarkand and Tashkent, as visible proof to the Russians, not only of their falsehoods, but of the present existence of the slave trade. I, therefore, sent out Pulat, my arbakesh, or cart-driver, whom PULAT THE ARBAKESH. I had taken at Samarkand, who knew the city, his family living there, and who seemed to me a very straightforward, faithful man, to find oat if a slave could anywhere be purchased. After remaining away all day, he came back in the evening, and said that he had found a boy about seven or eight years old, who could be had for 700 tengas [2\l.) and a good gown. I immediately gave him the money, and directed him to purchase the boy and buy him some clothes, for in Bukhara, unless a special bargain be made for the clothes, the slaves are delivered to you in a state of nature ; in buying a horse one does not have the saddle and bridle thrown in. The boy whom I thus purchased, turned 108 TUKKISTAtf. out to be very small and ±oeble, although intelligent, a Persian, from near Meimana, who had been stolen from his parents, as he was playing on the steppe with other boys, by the Salor Turkomans, some three years before. His recollections of his parents were very slight, and as he did not seem to know his real name, I took the liberty, which in these countries is always allowed on the purchase of a slave, and named him Hussein. The arbakesh passed him off as his brother, and although I think people in the house suspected the truth, yet no one made any remark. Having thus succeeded in outwitting the Bukharan autho- rities, I resolved to make one last trial with the Kush-Begi for the recovery of my first purchase, and at the last interview I had with him, we talked on the subject for a long time. But he so completely absolved himself from all blame, so smiled and regretted, that there was nothing to be done with him. I attacked his philanthropy, and quoted the sentence from the Shariat, that ' to free a slave is a work pleasing to Grod,' and asked to be allowed to complete the good work. He agreed with me in all I said, and promised, if the lad could only be found, to free him, and give him to me, but that he could not think of his guest paying money. Although the Kush-Begi and the Taksaba offered me so many slaves as presents, they were very careful not to give me any. I of course carefully concealed my new purchase till the time of my departure. When the Taksaba came to bid me ' good-bye,' I told him that although I wished to part with him on good terms, I was perfectly aware of all that had been done with reference to the boy ; that I had regretted very much that he had retained him, as I had given him my word that I would buy him and free him, and disliked to be false to it ; that I understood he feared I would show the boy in Samarkand as a proof of the existence of the slave trade, but that he need not be anxious about that, as I had bought another for that express purpose ; and I then produced the little Hussein, at which the Taksaba was in such rage and confusion as to be almost speechless. When I reached the shrine of Bohoueddin, about six miles from Bukhara, the former master of Hussein met me, and said that the government had already discovered that it was he who ABOLITION OF THE SLAVE TllADE. 109 had sold the boy, arid that he was anxious to receive him hack, being willing to repay the price, for he feared that, if he left him in my hands, he would probably have his head cut off. I told him I did not wish for my money, and certainly could not give up the boy ; and that if he had his bead cut off, I should have no regrets, but should feel that he had been served perfectly right. On this he went off: but as we were about starting, he returned, and tried to take the boy by force ; my jigits soon put him to flight, and I was able to bring the boy safely to Samarkand and St. Petersburg. 1 This purchase was the subject of a great deal of comment in Samarkand and Tashkent, some few declaring that it was impossible that I could have bought the boy, when the govern- ment had official evidence that the slave trade did not exist ; but most people were very much delighted that so decisive a proof of its being carried on could be given, although they ex- pressed a doubt aa to whether General Kaufmann — then absent in Khiva — would be very well pleased, as he had just then gained great fame by abolishing slavery in Khiva, while he had allowed it for years to exist within 200 miles of the capital of Russian Asia. I was afterwards pleased to learn that on the re- turn of the army, General Kaufmann concluded a treaty with tbe Amir, by which the slave trade is for ever abolished in Bukhara. At my interview with the Amir, I had asked for permission to visit Tchardjui, having a desire to see the Amu Darya, and especially to know what was going on there, for Tchardjui is a place of exile for Bukharan political offenders, and it is said that the treasure of the Amir is kept there so as to be ready for any emergency. On my first visit to the Kush-Begi, I told him that the Amir had given me permission to go, to which he had said ' Yes I know all about it, my son has told me.' Several times subsequently, in conversation with the Taksaba, I spoke of going to Tchardjui, as soon as I should have finished my visit in 1 The boy Hussein, who displayed remarkable cleverness and intelligence, remained with me for two years at St. Petersburg, going to school, where he learned to read and write Eussian and a little of German. He was afterwards apprenticed to the Court clockmaker, a worthy Tartar of the Mussulman faith. 1 1 TUKKISTAN. Bukhara, and even promised to stay a day or two longer on my return. My proposition was always received with assent, and no objection of any sort was made. When I felt I uad seen sufficient of Bukhara and was ready to go on, I told the Taksaba, on one of his morning visits, that I proposed, that evening, to start forKara-kul and Tchardjui. He immediately began to dissuade me, and said that the road was very bad ; that for two days I would be without water ; and that, further, it was impossible for a cart to travel on that road. I told him that I knew all about the road, and had calculated all these difficulties, and did not intend to let them stop me. He then said that the road was dangerous ; that the Turkomans were be- setting this route ; and that I might get into some danger. I laughed at the idea of a road being dangerous so close to the capital ; but he assured me that it was really so, and begged me not to go. He asked me if I had not heard of Sadyk, the cele- brated robber chief, who, with his band, was then on this road. I told him that I thought he was mistaken, for that I knew very well that after the capture of Khiva, Sadyk with his Turkomans had gone far on the other side of the Amu. He then said the ferry over the Amu was dangerous, and that although I might be safe on land, he would not be willing to guarantee the risk of my crossing the river on the unsafe boats. He then re- turned to the Turkomans, and said that the road was so dan- gerous, that the Bek of Tchardjui, the son of the Amir, had sent word, only the day before, that no one should be allowed to go there. I still persisted in my intention, and he then desired two weeks time, to write to Greneral Kaufmann, and see whether he wished me to go, and asked why Greneral Abramof had not mentioned it in his letter. On my refusing to wait, he said that it would be necessary to ask permission of the Amir. I told him that I had already done so, to which he himself could bear witness. This he admitted, but said that I ought to have the consent in writing, as a verbal order amounted to nothing ; that this was their usage ; that I could not go without an escort, and that he must get permission from the Amir to give me one ; that if I would wait, they would ask the Amir for his consent, and would make other arrangements for a safe and pleasant journey, and would even give me a carriage as far as Kara-kul. He spoke of Russians who had desired to go to Kara-kid, but who had NO HOPE OF TCHARDJUI. II. been deterred on bearing the danger of the road. I told hirn that I knew very well that Mr. Struve had been frightened by re- ports of fevers (an idea, which he at once seized, and told me, that the fever was raging frightfully there), while Mr. Petrof- sky insisted to the last on going, and was only prevented b} the positive refusal of the Kush-Begi. I finally told him that 1 intended to start that afternoon or the next morning, and that if he took measures to prevent me, I should at once return to Samarkand and tell of the difficulties placed in my way. That evening Karataef came to me on the part of the Kush-Begi, and endeavoured to dissuade me from going, using very much the same arguments. The next morning I went to see the Kush-Begi, and told him of my intention to start at once for Tchardjui. He argued with me for half an hour on this subject, telling me, among other things, that it was a great pity I did not mention this subject to him at first, for then he would have had time to obtain the Amir's consent ; that he refused to recognise the verbal consent of the Amir as valid ; and that although he was ruling in his place, he could do nothing without a written order. I told him that his son had been witness to the interview, at which he seemed astonished, saying that his son had never mentioned the fact to him, and sent for him to hear what he had to say. Of course the Taksaba did not appear, and although 1 reminded the Kush-Begi that he himself had said at my first interview that he already knew of this from his son, he seemed unable to bring the matter to his recollection. He said that if I had only arranged this matter at first, before I had been there so long, and had only gone at once, the case would have been other ; that I could even have started apparently for Khiva, and turned down to Tchardjui — thus admitting that the road was passable — and referred to the fact that Milutin, a young Kussian officer (son of the Minister of War), had gone two-thirds of the same way, a few weeks before, in perfect safety. ' But now,' he said, ' you have been so long in Bukhara, that everybody knows you are here, and is talking about you ; so if you go to Tchardjui people will say that Bukhara is good for nothing now-a-days, because foreigners are going everywhere, whereas you might easily have deceived them by going at first.' Finding it impossible to dissuade me, the Kush-Begi finally 112 TUEKISTAN. raid that I could not go without an escort. I asked if the decision were final ? He said it was. I then said that I should be very glad to accept an escort ; on which he seemed to think that there might be danger to me from the very escort, and desired me to give him a written paper that if I should be killed, or anything should happen to me, the Eussian Government would not hold the Amir responsible. I told him that on the contrary I would give no such paper, as I had been especially requested not to do so ; but that further, if a, finger were raised against me, or I were injured in any way, the Bukharan Government would be held responsible. This seemed to frighten him a little, and he insisted the more on the necessity of an escort. I asked him if I could have the escort to-day. ' No.'—' To-morrow ? '— ' No.'—' When ? ' — He was not sure I could have it at all, but he should be obliged to write to the Amir, and in the course of five days would probably receive an answer, saying whether I could have an escort or not. I then said, ' You do not permit me to go to Tchardjui to- morrow ? ' 'No.' ' Very well,' I replied ; ' in that case I shall start at once for Samarkand.' At this the face of the Kush-Begi became radiant ; he was delighted to think he was not going to have the responsibility of my journey to Tchardjui ; and, in fact, the announcement that I was to leave Bukhara immediately seemed to fill him with great pleasure, and with a feeling of relief. I think I must have worried him a great deal over these various matters. He was then as cordial as possible, hoped that we should always be good friends, and said that he would do everything to make my return journey pleasant, and would instruct everybody on the road to treat me well. On my return to Samarkand, I had a copy given to me of a letter he then wrote to General Abramof, speaking of my visit in pleasant terms, and saying that I had expressed a desire to go to Tchardjui, that the Bukharan Government had been anxious to facilitate me in every possible way, but that on hearing that the road was dangerous, I had of my own accord declined to go. AN ATTEMPT AT ASSASSINATION. 113 True to my determination, I left Bukhara the next day (August 13). The Taksaha and Karataef came to bid me good- bye, bringing me some tea and three pieces of silk. We had rather a stormy scene, but finally parted on good terms. Leaving Bukhara by the Mazar gate, I rode through gardens and fields along a dusty road to Baha-Uddin, the shrine of a celebrated saint, at a distance of six miles from Bukhara. We found an immense bazaar going on there, and the streets were thronged with a crowd of people of every class and con- dition, beggars and pilgrims preponderating. As I passed through the crowd, a respectably dressed Mullah walked close to my side ; he had a large stone in his hand, and was muttering to himself, ' Just let me hit him, and he will drop dead at once, and there will be one Kaffir the less.' Fortunately Andrei noticed this, and immediately rode at him, when he dropped the stone and retreated some distance, and then picked up another and threw it at Andrei. At this Andrei and the jigits ran after him and drove him across the ditch into a large open field, where they beat him soundly with their whips, and left him half dead. He protested against this treatment, saying that he was a Mullah, and that they had no right to beat him. I did not at first understand that the man actually proposed to kill me, supposing he was merely reviling me, as people oc- casionally did ; but when I found that there was a struggle, I fired my pistoL into the air, in order to show the crowd that I was armed, and passed on without further trouble. Had this man been wise enough to keep his own counsel, he could easily have disposed of me. We were soon brought to a small house, near the shrine of the great saint of Central Asia, Hazret Baha-Uddin, or Hazret Nakshband, who, it is said, died in 1303. The tomb of the saint is in a small enclosure about twelve paces square, raised about six feet above the ground, with a small temple-like mausoleum at the top, covered with old bushes and grass, and with the usual rams' horns and rags with which all sacred places are decorated, having in every way an uncared-for look. At one side is the inscription, and let into the wall near it a black stone, called Sianghi Murad, which all pious pilgrims rub with their hands, and touch with their face and beard, an operation which leaves evident traces on the stone, and which is VOL. II. I 114 TUEKISTAN. supposed to cure and to prevent all maladies of the head. I, being a Kaffir, was exempted from this ceremony, but my attendants all performed it. Two or three monks near by received money for this privilege, as did others for pointing out another small inscription. The Ishan had also to be paid. This tomb stands in one corner of a square court, enclosed on two sides by mosques filled with graves, said to be of the descendants and pupils of the saint. Here are also the tombs of the great Abdullah Khan, and of Daniar Atalyk. The mosque on the south of the shrine is said to have been built by Hakim Kush-Begi. A large portico at the side contains a great number of dingy chandeliers, brass and bronze, some of which with the silver plating nearly rubbed off are evidently of Russian workmanship. From this mosque there is a long narrow passage to the street, with another mosque at the right side, full of pilgrims and beggars, who almost despoil one of whatever money he may have with him. Still, one should not be ungenerous, for a visit to this shrine, which ranks next to Mecca in sanctity, would be sure to alleviate the future punish- ment even of a Kaffir pilgrim. Starting from this place about half-past three o'clock, we arrived at six at the village of Kuyuk Mazar, about twelve miles further, where we had refreshment, and where we were advised to pass the night, but we concluded to go on twelve miles more to Varganzi. Here we were placed in a caravanserai, and a large verandah was given up to my use. The whole road from Bukhara to Varganzi, and especially in the vicinity of that place, led through well cultivated gardens and fields, this being one of the best parts of the Khanate. Shortly after my arrival, there came a message from the Kush-Begi to inquire about my health, and to say that the man who attacked me had been arrested and brought to Bukhara, and that they were desirous of cutting his throat, but had been obliged to send to the Amir to know if they could do so. I sent back word that when the man should be punished, I hoped that he would be punished publicly, so that all the people might know that they could not molest or insult a foreigner, and requested the Kush- Begi immediately to write to General Abramof at Samarkand, informing him what had been done with this man. The last dav that I spent in Tashkent, a merchant, an acquaintance of KERMINEH. ] 15 mine, arrived from Bukhara, and told me the various rumours he had heard about me among the people ; very exaggerated stories about my actions, and especially the belief that I was a minister in disguise from St. Petersburg, to find out the actual condition of affairs at Bukhara, and that, as I had been dis- satisfied at the action of the government, the Kussians would shortly invade and conquer the country. I asked him about the man who had attacked me, and he said that he was still in prison, and had not yet been punished, and that the popular belief was that I had sent a letter to the Amir, requesting him to be detained for the present, as I desired to behead him with my own hands ! This is the last I heard of him. Starting from Varganzi at half-past six o'clock in the morning, passing several Mazars, or tombs, by the way, and taking tea at a village called Bustan, on the edge of a narrow canal, on the shady side of a small shop, we reached Malik, about twenty-four miles further, at about noon. I went the whole way in my arba, as we passed through a desert steppe, and it was very windy and dusty. There were rumours here of Turkomans and robbers, and we always had an escort of two or three horsemen. At Malik, which was formerly a town of some note, there are the ruins of a very large castle (or caravanserai), with arched windows, the whole building being somewhat in the Gothic style, with minarets at the corners ; the drawing of Lehmann gives, to one who has seen it, a very fair idea of the building. We rested here for a few hours in a very small hot room, and while we were taking our tea, the son of the Divan Begi of Kermineh came to meet me. Near Kermineh, which was twelve miles further, we were met by an escort, and I was asked if I wished to go through the bazaar into the town, or by a round-about road. I of course preferred the bazaar, and was then told that the people there were very bad, and might perhaps insult me or throw stones at me ; upon which I said that if they dared to do so in the presence of their rulers, they should be taught better. They then agreed to take me directly through the town, but we went by a round-about way which led through a small part of the bazaar to the house of the Divan Begi, where 1 was given very comfortable apartments, and a platform on the edge of a large square pond of fresh water, shade 1 by some l '2 116 TUKKISTAN. great elms. After a little repose, I walked to the house of the Bek, which was near by. In the fortress square there was a long line of soldiers, who saluted me with a fan- far snade of trumpets as I passed, and a crowd of richly dressed people stood on the slope which led to the small fort containing the palace. The Bek, a small, but intelligent-looking boy of thirteen, Seid Abdullah, a son of the Amir, who was sitting by the window when we were shown in, rose and gave me his hand, and asked after the health of the Emperor and that of the Governor General. We then took seats, and the Bek, who was dressed in a dark red silk robe and white turban, immense for his years, remained silent, leaving the Divan Begi to speak in his name, and only as we were leaving the room, and had already made our last salaam, he suddenly cried out to remember him to the Emperor and to the Governor General when I saw them. This Bek is the favourite son of the Amir, who frequently calls him to Bukhara, and apparently intends him as his successor. He maintains a little court, with all a boy's love for finery and display. Everyone here is obliged to dress richly, with girdles if not gowns of Cashmere material, and daggers in heavy gold sheaths carved and set with precious stones. As we were going out, the Namaz was cried, and everyone rushed off as fast as possible to get to prayers in the mosque opposite the palace, before the Bek himself should go in. The scene was very amusing. Eobes were brought to me, which were much handsomer than I had received at any other place ; one of my seven robes was of Cashmere stuff, worth about thirty pounds. Among the presents I had brought for this Bek were some toys from Tashkent, including a small trumpet and a velocipedist going by clockwork, with which he was very much amused, although he immediately put them out of order. Kermineh is a small town with four mosques and one medresse, and contains nothing of interest except one mosque, which is comparatively ancient, standing on the edge of a pond. In the house of the Divan Begi I did not lack for entertainment. My host had formerly been a merchant, had resided at Oren- burg, and had even been to the Fair of Nizhni Novgorod ; he was a shrewd, observant man, who had outgrown many preju- dices, and whose conversation was agreeable and instructive. ZIAUEDDIN. 117 His enlightenment seemed to extend to bis household, for even his son, a bright little boy of five, had no objection to being petted by the strangers, and amused us greatly by his babble. The next afternoon we went to Ziaueddin, twenty-four miles, stopping for refreshment at Tash-kupri-uk, or Stone Bridge. At Ziaueddin I was lodged in a part of the palace of the Bek, who was himself out of town, and did not return until the next morning. It was his duty to see that the dykes of Samarkand, which turn the water into Bukhara, were always kept in good order, which necessitated his going there two or three times a year, and as he had been much with Eussians, he was far more civilised and agreeable than any of the other Beks whom I met. Ziaueddin seems to consist only of the Bek's palace, and of a square outside on which a bazaar is held, each trader being accommodated with a small clay conical mound, of exactly the shape of the hill of the white ant. The next day I went on as far as Shirin-hatun, where I passed the night in a large garden, having stopped only for an hour at Mir, where lodgings had been prepared for me ; and the next day (August 17), about ten o'clock, I arrived at Katta Kurgan. The last days of a journey seem to one always more fatiguing than the previous ones, and the whole distance from Kermineh to Katta Kurgan was very wearisome. The road lies at the edge of a beautiful country, the celebrated district of Miankal, with the low mountains or hills to the south always visible, but is itself on the high ground which is not watered or cultivated, and as the soil is of clay the dust was more than a foot deep and like an impalpable powder. I was, therefore, all the more pleased to go to a place where I could find at least some civilisation in the residences of the District Commandant and in the post station, not to speak of my travelling carriage, which was a very agreeable change after so much horseback travelling. Though I had had some discomforts, and a great many disputes with the authorities and other disagreeable in- cidents, I look back to my journey in Bukhara with extreme pleasure. Not only was the country itself interesting, but the government, no matter how suspicious and jealous, as far as hospitality went, did everything in its power to render me comfortable. Still, it seemed like getting to another world to 118 TUEKISTAN. arrive at Katta Kurgan, eat civilised food, enjoy rational con- versation on ordinary topics, and, more than all, to meet, after such a long absence from female society, as the wife of one of the officers, a well-known French actress from the Theatre Berg at St. Petersburg. I found also at Katta Kurgan a very good friend of mine, whom General Abramof had kiudly sent to meet me at the frontier, and after a pleasant evening spent at the Commandant's, we got into our travelling carriage and by morning were safely back in Samarkand. Throughout the whole of my journey I had endeavoured to maintain my independence, had refused to allow myself to be bullied or imposed upon, and had insisted that no one should consider me his inferior, being siiffieiently acquainted with the native character to know that the more respect I demanded, the more I should receive. I had the satisfaction of enjoying myself while travelling, even, or perhaps I may say especially, in my disputes with the Taksaba, and of re- turning in safety. When, two months later, a Eussian colonel passed through Bukhara on his way home from Khiva and asked the officials what had been going on, he received the reply : ' An American was here for ten days, and kept the Bukharan people completely under his control.' ISSYK KUL. 119 CHAPTER XI. ISSTK KUL AND SEMIEETCH. Aulie-ata — Old ruins — Prester John -Spiders and Tarantulas — Cockroaches — Tokmak — The Buam Pass — Lake Issyk Kul — Submerged cities — The Tian Shan — No volcanos— The road to Kashgar — The Muzart Pass — The Kara Kirghiz — Their legends — -A court of Biis — Bad interpreters — Attempt to navigate the Tchu Signal defeat of the Khokandians at Uzun-agatch — The White Tsar — Vierny — Chinese merchants— A Polish refugee — General Kolpakofsky — Semiretch — Eussian and Cossack colonisa- tion—Navigation of the Hi — Kopal — Lake Balkash — Through Siberia. I had been warmly invited to go to Khiva after the capture of that city, and I might easily have done so from Bukhara before, and perhaps even after, my dispute with the Kush-Begi about Tchardjui. I could have proceeded by road to the little fort of Ustyk on the Amu-Darya, and could then have descended that river in a boat almost to the very walls of Khiva, a journey at the utmost of about four or five days from Bukhara ; but the coming back would have been a very different matter. It would have been very difficult to ascend the river against the current, and riding up along the river bank or through the desert of Khalata where the Russian army was so nearly lost, was more than I cared for after my experience in the waste of Karshi. I could, indeed, have gone on from Khiva by steamer to Kazala, but this would have brought me out in a place far from my base of operations, for I had left my carriage in Samarkand, and most of my luggage and the few curiosities I had picked up in Tashkent. Having seen Khokand and Bukhara, I felt that my curiosity for that region of Central Asia was entirely satisfied, for I knew that the Khivan oasis did not differ in any great respect from the countries which I had already seen. Then, too, ugly rumours were rife about the condition of the Russian army, a campaign against the Turkomans had been begun, and there 120 TURKISTAR were widely credited and apparently well-authenticated reports, — which fortunately proved untrue — of the massacre of Russian garrisons and of the defeat of separate detachments. When, therefore, I returned from Bukhara, I was desirous of pressing on as fast as possible towards Issyk Kul and Kuldja, but I was delayed for a few days waiting for authentic intelligence about the movements of Mac Gahan, who, I was erroneously told, was on his way to Tashkent. It was not, therefore, until the even- ing of September 9, that I finally started from Tashkent, after having been accompanied by some kind friends to a little country house called Izbushka, on the edge of the town, where many ' God-speeds ' were wished me amid the sparkle of champagne. A moonlit drive brought me the next morning to Tcbimkent, and after staying a few hours to look again at the town and to call on the Prefect, I started off through the mountains eastward. An unlucky hill did some damage to my carriage, and I was forced to pass the night at Mashad, a little valley between some hills. The mountains here are not high, and I reached Aulie-Ata without difficulty at sunset the next evening, passing on my way the double peak of Kazikurt- ata, about 7,000 feet high, one of the many Asiatic mountains on which Noah's Ark finally rested after the flood, and where some pieces of it are still to be seen by believing eyes. Aulie-Ata, which is situated on the rapid river Talas, pro- bably near the site of the well-known ancient city Taraz or Talas, is now but an insignificant country town, important only as the chief place of the district, and as a market for the Kirghiz, who live in large numbers among the neighbouring mountains. It was taken by storm by General (then Colonel) Tchernaief, on June 16, 1864, with a loss of only five wounded on the part of the Russians, and of over 300 killed on the part of the Khokandian defenders — the first step of the memorable campaign of 1864, which has resulted in the Russian conquest of nearly the whole of Central Asia. Since that time the place has greatly increased in population and in business, but it is still a straggling, shabby looking village with almost no trees, set down on the bare steppe. At one time there was an idea of making this the administrative centre of the province, and when General Kauf- mann went to Turkistan, in 1867, he was undecided whether to place his capital at Tashkent or at Aulie-Ata. MKM THE LEGENDS OF AULIE-ATA. 121 There is a road through the mountains from Aulie-Ata to Namangan, which is of some commercial importance, especially for the trade in cattle and sheep. In 1869, above 300,000 head of sheep, worth more than 700,000 rubles, passed on this road from the steppes to Namangan. The whole distance is 165 miles, and the usual time consumed is eight days. The two passes are not high, although on account of the snow they cannot be crossed by horses or camels during two months of the winter. Aulie-Ata owes its name to the tomb of a patron saint of the Kirghiz — Aulie-Ata, holy father, said to have been a certain Kara Khan and a descendant of the Sheikh Akhmed Yasavi, who is buried at Turkistan. The tomb itself, which is an ordinary brick building, is in a woeful state of dilapidation, and is by no means as interesting as the similar monument erected over the grave of Assa-bibi, some female relation of Kara Khan, which can be seen on the road-side ten miles west of the town. Ten miles below Aulie-Ata on the Talas, amidst the sands of the Muyun-kum, are the ruins of what was apparently a city, called by the natives Tiume-Kent. 1 Tradition says that a maiden once lived here who was beloved by the prince of the Divs, giant spirits who dwelt in the neighbouring mountains. In order to prepare a fit re- sidence for her, this Div began to build a city, and for that purpose threw down immense stones from the mountain of Mak-bal. The city was never finished, but its remains are still visible, called by the natives Akhyr-tash (Akhyr-tepe), or Tash-kurgan. The legend may be absurd, but the ruins, which are about thirty miles east of "Aulie-Ata, are very curious. They consist of an immense unfinished building, 600 feet by 450, of reddish sandstone, the lower layers of the front being built of large stones seven feet long by four broad. Mr. Lerch, who investigated this ruin, thinks that it was intended for a Buddhist monastery. The scattered stones are supposed by the natives to have been mangers, or feeding-troughs, for an encamp- ment, and hence the name Akhyr-tash, stone-manger. The Chinese traveller, Tch'ang Tch'un, who passed here in 1221, says : ' We travelled westward along the hills and after seven 1 These ruins, which have never been investigated, may perhips prove to be those of the city Talas. 122 TURKISTAN. or eight days" journey the mountains suddenly turned to the southr We saw a city built of red stone, and there are the traces of an ancient military encampment. To the west we saw great grave mounds placed like the stars in the Great Bear.' These mounds also still exist, and from a short distance they indeed appear to be seven disposed like the seven stars of the Great Bear. In reality, however, there are sixteen mounds of different sizes, the largest being from 200 to 250 paces in cir- cumference. They are called by the Kirghiz, Jitte-tepe, or the seven mounds. On one of them Mr. Lerch found a stone bear- ing a Mantchu inscription, relative to a victory of the Chinese over the Jungars, in 1758. Indeed, all this region is to the geographer classic ground. Here began the Min-bulak, or 'thousand springs' of Hiouen Thsang; here too was the realm of Prester John, that semi-mythi- cal, Christian pope-king so celebrated in mediaeval histories ; l here was the country of the Karakidans, and a little to the north lay their capital Bala Sagun ; and here was the great highway between the East and the West along which passed so many travellers from Zemarchus and Hiouen Thsang to Rubriquis and Tch'ana- Tch'un. 2 1 Prester John now seems to be thoroughly identified with Yeliu Tashi, the founder of the realm of Karakitai, who, after his conquest of Eastern and "Western Turldstan , became known by the title of the Gur-Khan, and had his capital at Bala Sagun. A full account of the legend of Prester John and of the modifications which it underwent, will be found in the interesting book of Dr. Augustus Oppert, ' Der Presbyter Johannes in Sage und Gesehiehte.' See also Yule's 'Cathay,' pp. ] 73- 182, and his second edition of 'Marco Polo,' vol i. pp. 229-233, and vol ii. pp. 539-513. Professor Bruun, of Odessa, in his article on the ' Migrations of Prester John,' (Odessa, 1870) propounds with some fcrco a theory that he was Prince John Orbelian of Georgia. 2 For a slight sketch of t tie routes taken by the great mediseval travellers, see Appendix III., at the end of Vol. I. Bala Sagun, for reasons which I in part stated in the ' Geographical Magazine,' December, 1874, p. 389, and January, 1875, p. 25, seems plainly to have been in the valley of the Tchu, although not necessarily on the very hanks of that river. In the present state of our knowledge it would be impossible to identify it with any particular place. It-kitchu, the place proposed by Mr. Howorth (-Geog. Mag.' July, 1875, p. 216), is a Turkish, but not Kirghiz, name meaning, ' Dog-ford,' given probably on account of the shallowness of the Tchu at that place. I cannot find that there is the slightest reason of any kind for confounding Bala Sagun, which is probably of Persian origin, with the Mongol word Balghasun, city, and am at a loss to imagine how the idea arose, and why it is so persistent. < H heir forces from near Hi, they bent all their energies to the siege of Bayandai, and in the beginning of 1865 took it by btorm. The garrison of about 8,000 men, with their com- mander, was all killed, with the exception of two soldiers, who, with their noses split, were sent to Hi. Houses were plundered, the peaceable Chinese with their wives and children were strangled, and the young girls enslaved. The fall of Bayandai seemed greatly to encourage the insurgents, who, before this, were in such desperation that they had sent to Urumtsi and Ku-tche for assistance, and on the news of the capture of Bavandai, a defensive and offensive league appears to have been entered into. In the meantime Suidun was also surrounded, but the Governor could afford it no assistance. At this time also the insurrection broke out in Tarbagatai, so that after the capture of Tchugutchak and the occupation of the country, the Mantchus were entirely cut off from any communication with China except through the Russian territory. Shortly after, a letter arrived at Semipala- tinsk from the Governor again asking for assistance, and begging that a packet of official documents might be trans- mitted to Pekin. The siege of Hi slowly progressed, varied ACTION OF THE KALMUKS. 181 only by a sortie which the Governor made against Da-di-pu, and which was repulsed with great loss. Meanwhile the Dungans had begun measures which it could easily have been seen would be successful. They sent small bands to plunder and ravage all the lands of the military colonies, thus com- pelling the ' banners ' that had stayed at home to take their part in order to save their own property, and detaching even others from the Mantchus. The Kalmuks on the river Tekes had not sent the assistance demanded by the Governor, being angry that he had not assisted them when they had been attacked a few months before by the Kara-Kirghiz. At last, however, when their great temple on the Hi had been plundered by the Dungans, their Lama excited them to revenge. They therefore marched down to near Hi and sig- nally defeated the insurgents, who after that dared no longer show themselves in the vicinity. The harvest was now ripe, and the giain was greatly needed by the suffering garrison and town population, but no one dared to reap it for fear of the Dungans. The Governor therefore ordered the Kalmuks to gather the harvest, but, as they were nomads who despised agriculture, they refused, and when threats were offered, they all decamped, and no persuasions could bring them back. After their departure the Dungans immediately resumed operations. Of the frightful position of affairs in the fortress, we learn something from Colonel Eeinthal, who was there in July and September 1865, to obtain information on the position. It is much to be regretted that the Russian Government did not act upon the information contained in his reports, and either give some active support to the Chinese authorities, or itself occupy the country to prevent bloodshed. The scarcity of provisions in Hi became such that the Gover- nor at last saw himself obliged to dismiss his last auxiliaries, the Thagor Kalmuks. In the meantime both Solons and Sibos were being attacked and plundered, and were obliged to make peace with the insurgents, so that only Hi, Khorgos, Losigun, and Suidun, remained in the hands of the Mantchus. Hi was now entirely surrounded, and it was resolved to reduce it by famine. The situation there was indeed frightful ; all the provisions had been exhausted, and the only food was horses, dogs, and cats. Typhus so raged that from 50 to 100 men died daily. The 182 TUEKISTAN. dead lay untamed in the streets, and the furniture and the roof- bearns of the houses were used for fuel. Finally, about the middle of January the Dungans made an attack ; they blew up two bastions and one of the gates, and burst into the fortress. Men, women, and children were indiscriminately murdered, and many spared their enemies the trouble by killing first their families and then themselves. All the Mantchus sought refuge in the Governor's palace, which they defended with the courage of despair. Tchang, the former Governor, fell into the hands of the insurgents and was at once murdered, but the others, as the Chinese reporter puts it ' fulfilled their duty of devotion,' i.e., they blew up the palace^ and all perished in the ruins. Some treasure was doubtless found in the houses, and in the palace of the Governor 80,000 ounces of silver were discovered, but in all probability much still remains buried in the city. After a few weeks rest the Dungans turned towards the northern cities, took Suidun and Losigun almost immediately, while the town of Khorgos, where many rich merchants had taken refuge, made peace with them by paying a very heavy contribution, and surrendered on a promise of safety. The Tarantchis then returned home and the Dungans went northward, but returned in five days and fell upon this city, plundered and burnt it, and put all the inhabitants to the sword. The Dungans then made an attack on the Solons, who had before this entirely submitted to them, burnt all their towns and murdered the inhabitants, so that the remainder fled for refuge to the Russian territory, hotly pursued by the Dungans, who killed many in their flight. The Dungans and the Tarantchis had kept together as long as they were in the face of a common enemy ; no sooner were they masters of the situation than dissensions broke out between them. The two parties met in April 1867- near Old Kuldja, when the Dungans were badly beaten and lost their leader, Mayagur Akhun. A month later the Dungans collected a new force, increased by many of their race from Ur unit si, amounting in all to 10,000 men, and attacked a force of Tarantchis, Sibos, Mongols, and other inhabitants of that locality, at Da-di-pu, whom they defeated and compelled to fall back on Bayandai. There the retreating army made a stand, and remembering how the Duno-ans had started the insurrec- TARANTCHI RULE. 183 tion, and bow they had everywhere murdered, robbed, and pillaged, resolved to strike one more blow for their lives, and made a sudden onslaught, which so overwhelmed the Dungans, that few of them escaped from the battle. Those who did not flee to Urumtsi or over the Russian frontier, were obliged to submit to the Tarantchis. Late in the summer of the same year there was a report that a Chinese army was on its march, which so excited the Sibos and the few remaining Mantchus and Chinese with joy, that the Tarautchis grew seriously alarmed, and proposed to massacre them all to avoid disturb- ances; but the Sultan and the Akhun did not agree, so that their lives were preserved, although they were subject to all kinds of persecution and extortion. From that time on the Tarantchis ruled the country. They bad had many a change of leaders since the beginning of the insurrection. Their first chief, Abdrasul Amir, an influential man in old Kuldja, was murdered by Mazam Khan, who had been released from prison by the Chinese on his promise to use his influence in putting down the insurgents, whose leader he immediately became. In the capture of Bayandai he was killed by an adventurer from Andijan named Patcha Hodja, who hoped, with the assistance of some of his countrymen, to accomplish in Kuldja much the same as Yakub Bek was then doing in Kashgar. Patcha was soon disposed of, as was also his successor, who was followed by a certain Maltchet Akhun, a Tarantchi, and the leader of that race at the time of the capture of Hi. He in his turn was relieved of the cares of sovereignty by Abil Ogla, or, as he is sometimes called, Ala Khan, who sewed him up in a sack and threw him into the river. Abil Ogla, who had been a leading man in Kuldja before the insurrection, now took the title of Sultan. After the massacre of the Solons by the Dungans, their vacant territory had been immediately occupied by Kirghiz, some coining from the country to the north, and some from Siberia. These continued to plunder the country, and caused many more to seek Russian protection. In this way the emigrants during 1866—7, amounted in all to about 5,000 souls, by far the most of them being in a state of utter destitution. They were temporarily settled in the districts of Kopal and Vierny, and assistance was given to them by General Kolpakofsky in 184 TURKISTAN. food and money, for which he subsequently received the thanks of the Government at Pekin, and had conferred upon him by the Emperor of China the dignity of Mandarin of the first class, with a robe of honour embroidered "with dragons, which, being placed on the same footing with a decoration, he received the special permission of his own Emperor to wear on state occasions. The Chinese Government after they had recovered possession of Tchugutchak, demanded the release of all those emigrants who had been in the army or in the military colonies, and as the Chinese authorities had always been very exact in delivering up Eussian refugees, it was thought proper to comply with this request. In consequence of the insuffi- ciency of money and supplies, their return to China was postponed until 1868, and in the autumn of that year, 3,500 of them, after marching 600 miles, encamped for the winter near Tchugutchak, where in fact they were obliged to remain for several years, as the place marked out for -their colonisation was not then ready. More than a thousand, however, refused to obey the orders of the Chinese Government, preferring not to remove so far from their former settlements, and resolved either to stay under Eussian rule or await an opportunity to return to their homes. During the whole of the insurrection all the efforts of the Eussians had been directed to keeping the frontiers intact, but no movement whatever had been made to interfere. The districts of Vierny were then governed through Semipalatinsk, and Semipalatinsk in turn received its orders from Omsk, the capital of Western Siberia. As far as concerns Central Asia, the attention of the Eussians was concentrated on the new line of frontier and on the occupation of Tashkent and the adjacent regions ; as far as China was concerned, the only object was to keep up good relations and to do nothing that might injure them. When Semiretch became a province of the government of Turkistan under General Kaufmann it was evident that the policy here would change. The first attempt of the insurgents to enter into relations with the Eussians came from the Dungans of Tchugutchak, and immediately after the rising there in January 1865, the Imam of Tchugutchak hastened to inform the Eussian Vice-Consul that the Factory was still safe, TKOUBLES WITH KUSSIA. 185 being watched over by the Dungans, and invited him to return and renew commercial relations. These, as well as two subsequent letters, remained without answer, as the government could not take upon itself to enter into relations with persons who had taken possession of a city of a friendly power. After the capture of the citadel in 1866, the Dungans again tried to enter into relations, promising to satisfy all the Eussian complaints. These letters also remained without reply, and as the Dungans thus became convinced of the hostile disposition of the Eussians, and were at the same time influenced by a report circulated by the Chinese, that Eussian troops were to march against them, they decided to abandon Tchugutchak and its vicinity, and to settle in the neighbourhood of Manas. They thus left for a time the whole country between Manas and the frontier, 300 miles, utterly depopulated, and it so remained until it was again easily occupied by the Chinese forces which advanced with Zhung, the new Dzian-Dziun, in 1871. The kind reception given to the refugees, and the establish- ment of a corps of observation on the frontier, inspired the Dungans and Tarantchis in Kuldja, during the insurrection, with fear of the Eussians, and for that reason at first they took great care to prevent any infringement of the boundaries by the Kirghiz or others. In the early part of 1867 there had been a slight conflict with the Dungans at Borokhudzir on the frontier, in order to protect the Solons who were seeking Eussian protection, but otherwise there were no dealings with either Dungans or Tarantchis until 1869, except that, in 1868, the Tarantchis having learned that there was a report that they were intending with an army of 40,000 men to fall upon Vierny, sent a messenger to one of the Kirghiz chiefs to deny it, and to express their desire and intention to live in peace and amity with the Eussians. In March 1868 the Sultan Abil Ogla sent two envoys to Vierny with letters expressive of his desire for peace, and asking that measures might be taken to restore the plunder which the Eussian Kirghiz had taken from his subjects. To this the General commanding replied in a friendly way, saying that he was at his post to put down marauding expeditions on the Eussian side, and asking similar measures to be taken on 186 TUKKISTAN. the part of the Tarantchis. A second envoy came in the same year, but was stopped and robbed on the way. The robbers, who turned out to be Eussian Kirghiz, were arrested, and all that had been taken was restored. Yet, in spite of all this, robberies continued even on the Russian post-roads, and al- though it is probable that in all cases the marauders were really Eussian Kirghiz, yet they made the province of Kuldja their head-quarters, and returned there as to a safe retreat. In order to put this down a small expedition was made in October of that year, and 20,000 head of cattle were taken from the Kirghiz. At the same time a part of the forces at Borokhudzir advanced to Khorgos and took from the Kirghiz 5,000 sheep. In this way mutual complaints arose and mutual demands for indemnity, which gave rise to many embassies from the Sultan, and finally to the mission of Baron Kaulbars to Kuldja at the end of 1870. The efforts at arrangement turned out to be fruitless, and there is some reason to believe intentionally so. General Kaufmann had begun to think that the existence of this little IDrincipality could no longer be allowed ; fears were expressed that it would fall into the hands of Yakub Bek of Kashgar, who was then making great progress in his war against the Dungans of Urumtsi and Turfan. It was for this reason that the Muzart Pass was occupied, as I have already mentioned. Finally, when matters had reached a head, preparations for an expedition were made, the forces at Borokhudzir were increased, and General Kolpakofsky took command of them. A shrewd and well written report was sent to St. Petersburg, showing all the reasons which rendered it necessary to occupy : Kuldja for the security of the frontier, and to counteract the designs of Yakub Bek, and asking permission for a movement. Almost simultaneously, the Tarantchis having luckily at- tacked a Russian outpost which had crossed the boundary; the onward movement was begun. The campaign was rapid and decisive. On June 24 the main forces left Borokhudzir, on the 28th they defeated a body of Tarantchis, about 4,000 in number, at Alim-tu : on the 30th they drove them from a position in front of Tchin-tcha-ho-dzi, and immediately occupied that city. On the next day, July 1, they occupied Suidun without oppositj >n. On July 3, near Bayandai, the Sultan A CHINESE ACCOUNT. 187 sent in his submission through his envoys, one of whom was his son. In the evening of that day he delivered himself up, and on the next, July 4, General Kolpakofsky entered the capital. The Kussians, however, were unable to stop one further act of barbarity. When the Tarantchis in Kuldja learned the surrender of their Sultan they wreaked their vexation and despair on the poor Dungans and Chinese. During that night they massacred more than 2,000 in the city and in its neigh- bourhood. On the next day, when this became known, General Kolpakofsky informed the Sultau and his counsellors that, if this massacre did not cease, they should answer for it with their heads, The threat took effect, but the worst had already been done. The troops, in advancing from Bayandai to Kuldja, found everywhere mutilated bodies, and wounded and dying men. In one of the canals just outside of the city were 500 corpses, which it was said had been brought out from Kuldja at daylight and thrown there. Lu-tsun-han, in reporting the Eussian occupation, says : ' Once again they fought ; the Turkistanis were dispersed, each one seeking to save his life. The Dzian-Dziun of Semiretch ( General Kolpakofsky) accepting the declarations of submission botli from the Chinese and the Turkistani troops, and assuring them of mercy, immediately marched to Suidun. Here the Turkistanis and the Chinese Mussulmans again met the enemy in battle. The balls and bullets of the Eussian army flew like a shower, like a flight of grasshoppers. Of wounded and killed of every kind of people there were not few. The Turkistanis were defeated, and in great confusion returned to the city of Kuldja. The Dzian-Dziun of Semiretch quieted in every way those who remained in Suidun, both Mantchus and Chinese, both soldiery and civilians, as well as the Chinese Mussulmans, not harming anyone ; not even a single blade of grass, nor a single tree, nor a fowl, nor a dog received any harm or injury, not a hair was touched. All this is owing to the orders of the Dzian-Dziun of Semiretch. . . . ' But, although the Turkistanis (after the submission of the Sultan) in words expressed their submission, yet their poisoned tongues did not vanish. There were many instances that in lonely places they actually caught Mantchus and Chinese and killed 188 TUEKISTAN. them. Happily heaven did not permit the human race to end. Now the leader of the great Eussian Empire, the Dzian-Dziun of Semiretch, with his army, inspired with humanity and truth, has quieted everyone. This petty foreign power 1 saved the nation from fire and water, it subdued the whole four countries without the least harm, so that children are not frightened, and the people submitted not without delight and ecstasy.' The authorities at St. Petersburg were not over pleased at the occupation of the new territory, and although General Kolpakofsky received the St. George, he did so not, as is custo- mary, by the will of the Emperor, but in a still more compli- mentary way on the vote of the Chapter of the Order. The, Foreign Office immediately informed the Chinese government of the occupation of the province, and declared its readiness to restore it to China whenever a sufficient force could be brought there to hold it against attacks and to preserve order. So far this has not been done, and the question of the permanent occupation and annexation of the province still remains un- decided. The Sultan Abil Ogla was taken to Vierny, where he still resides. He was allowed to keep all his property, which was said to be very considerable., as at the time of his capture he had, among other things, 6000 horses. He seems to have been loved by his people for his goodness, generosity and justice, but nevertheless he had constant fear of secret enemies, — as indeed well he might have had considering the fates of his predecessors and the passions raging among the insurgents, — so that he rarely slept at home, but spent the nights in the houses of his most devoted adherents. After he arrived at Kuldja and was presented to General Kaufman he said that the previous night was the first time he had slept with a feeling of safety and comfort since he had mounted the throne. From Suidun I made another excursion to Lake Sairam Nor, north of the range of Borokhoro. Captain Bozhovitch gave me six Cossacks as an escort, and I had besides for the first day the company of a young Eussian officer. As it was some distance further to go by the regular road, we took a short cut across the 1 A touch which shows the true Chinese official writing to his Empercir. THE TALKI DEFILE. 18P meadows for twenty miles until we reached the opening of the Talki ravine. Through some misapprehension of the Kirghiz guide we lost our way and had to make a greater circuit, first through plains covered with dry and yellow grass, and then over a higher steppe thickly overgrown with wormwood. The entrance to the ravine was in some respects different from any that I know. Instead of gradually rising and imperceptibly penetrating among the mountains, we came to a cleft, as it were, in the high mountains which seemed to rise directly out of the plain, where the little river Talki came hounding over the rocks in a succession of pretty cascades. The ascent began at once. In a dozen paces we had turned a corner and had immediately found ourselves between high walls of rock completely shut out from the plain and apparently in the very heart of the mountains. After the bare and desolate mountains which I had so frequently seen I was unprepared for anything so charming. The vegetation was superb, especially on the eastern side of the ravine, where wild apples, wild apricots, elms, poplars, and willows grew in profusion, often festooned with the luxuriant and familiar foliage of the wild hop. It was then autumn, and the leaves of the trees were becoming yellow and red with a brilliancy that I had not expected to find out of America. The road was everywhere excellent, for this was the old Chinese road, and although the bridges had been destroyed it mattered not to us, who were on horseback. This road was built by the Mongols to keep up their communication with Central Asia, and from the number of times that we had to cross the very clear but icy- cold stream of the Talki, I think that there might have been at least the forty-eight bridges, of which the old historians speak. The road was renewed by the Chinese after their capture of the province and was only abandoned during the recent insurrection. A very small sum would suffice to put it in complete repair as a carriage road. About ten miles up the defile we reached a Cossack picket, where we were to pass the night, as darkness and cold were rapidly coming on. The half dozen Cossacks stationed there, who had been quite alone all the summer except for the passing of Kirghiz migrating from beyond the moun- tains, or for the occasional visits of a topographer or a surveyor, were delighted to meet their comrades and equally glad to be regaled with the sheep which we had brought with us. As theii 190 TURKISTAK share towards our supper some of them went out to the stream and brought in some nice fish. Although the clay had been so warm, the night was very cold and we were glad to have a fire kept up all night in the middle of our kibitka. The next morning I resumed my journey towards the lake, but unfortu- nately the Eussian officer who was accompanying me received a message from his commander to return immediately and take charge of a party of soldiers who had served out their time and were returning home. I was therefore obliged to proceed alone. As we went on the valley got narrower and steeper. At last, after riding twelve or thirteen miles we ascended a very steep hill, and no sooner had we reached the flat rocks on the top than we beheld before us a scene of wonderful beauty. Immediately below, although at an altitude of 7,200 feet, lay the lake of Sairam Nor, of a rich dark blue, apparently oval, about twenty miles long by fifteen broad, on every side of which rose high mountains, those beyond being often covered with snow. I thought I could discern where the pass lay into the valley of Borotala, and to the eastward there was an evident opening through which the old road went on to Manas and Urumtsi. After enjoying for a while the view we went down to the shore of the lake, where we rested for a few hours near a little spring of excellent water and took our lunch. The water of the lake is slightly saltish and is unfit for making tea. From the shore the water of the lake was beautifully clear, and small objects could be discerned at the bottom from a distance of many feet. The natives believe that the lake throws up on the shore whatever impurity may be cast into it, and they insist that there are no fish there. I walked along the edge for some distance without seeing any, and did not even see the shrimps which Mr. Dilke told me he had found there. The legend is that the spirit of this lake appears in the form of a stony he- goat with great horns and a thick beard, and that misfortunes follow its appearance. In the mountains on the west and south- west of the lake are numerous warm springs of a medicinal character, called arasan by the natives. Beyond the Ohala-tau mountains to the north is the valley of the Borotala, a stream which runs through sandy plains parallel to the Hi, but exactly in the opposite direction, falling into Lake Ebi Nor. The fall of ground is very singular, as in the seventy miles which separate LAKE SAIRAM NOK. 191 the Sairam Nor from the Ebi Nor the difference of altitude is 6,500 feet. The regular post-road to Tchugutchak left the road from Urumtsi to Sairam Nor at Kur-kara-usu, but there was another more direct road possible for carts which went through the defile in the Ala-tau near the head of Lake Ala Kul at a place called Sabada, famous for its violent winds. This is a deep cut through the mountains, and whenever there is an east wind it blows with such violence through this pass that it can be felt even at SergiopoL 250 miles further. Mr. Zakharof, in passing through it, was met by what the Kirghiz called only a moderate wind, and was immediately obliged to leave the main road and take a steeper path through the mountains. The Cossacks who rode in front of him were laid up for several days with sore eyes caused by the sand and gravel. He told me that the accounts of Eubruquis and others were literally true ; for that when there was a violent wind it was impossible for horses or camels to stand against it, and large pebbles were sometimes carried along by it. Nor is a Mongol word meaning lake, corresponding to the Turkish word Kid, but as to the origin of Sairam, which the Chinese write Sai-li-mu, there is much doubt. The Mongol name, Sairam Tchagan Nor Klaproth translates as ' The Great Lake of Tranquillity.' It is apparently the same as Sut-hul, or ' Milk Lake,' mentioned by King Hethum in his ' Journey to the Court of Mangu Khan.' The old monk Tch'ang Tch'un gives an excellent description of it, which I cannot forbear quoting. ' After having left the sandy desert, we travelled five days, and stopped on the northern side of the Yin Shan. The next day, early in the morning, we proceeded southward on a long- slope seventy or eighty miles, and stopped in the evening to rest. The air was cold ; we found no water. The next day we started again, and travelled south-westward, and at a distance of twenty li suddenly got sight of a splendid lake of about two hundred li in circumference, enclosed on all sides by snow- topped peaks, which were reflected in the water. The master named it the Lake of Heaven. Following the shore we de- scended in a southern direction, and on either side were nothing but perpendicular cliffs and rugged peaks. The mountains were covered to their summits with dense forests, consisting of 192 TURRISTAK birches and pines more than a hundred feet high. The river winds through the gorge for about sixty or seventy li with a rapid current, sometimes shooting down in cascades. The second prince, who was with the Emperor at the time he went to the west, first made a way through these mountains, cut through the rocks, and built forty-eight bridges with the wood cut on the mountains. The bridges are so wide that two carts can pass together. i We passed the night in the defile, and left it the next morning ; we then entered a large valley which stretched from east to west, well watered, with abundant grass, and here and there some mulberry trees or jujubes.' A short drive of about twenty miles easterly from Suidun, brought me to what is called Old or Tartar Kuldja, formerly known as Kuren. Under the Chinese rule it was the seat of the administration of the Tarantchis and Mussulmans, then the capital of the rebels, and now the chief place of the Russian administration. On the road I passed the ruins of Bayandai, one of the six great fortresses built by the Chinese to control the country ; now, hardly one stone is left upon another. At Kuldja I was most hospitably received by Colonel Wartmann, the Russian commandant, who occupies the Sultan's old palace in the citadel. Apart from the warmth and kind- ness with which I was greeted, and which I never shall forget, an additional charm was added to my stay in tins curious and uncivilised town of the far East, by finding there excellent servants, and the cleanliness, the neatness, and the thousand little conveniences which tend to make up the comfort of an English home. But the pleasure and comfort within doors could not long detain me from the strange world without. The appearance of the town is much like that of Suidun, but it is built on a larger and grander scale. It is nearly square, each side being about a mile in length, and is surrounded with high and thick walls, which are sufficiently well built to withstand a vigorous attack, and are so wide at the top as to allow carriages to pass on them. Two broad streets cut it into four equal parts, and these are again sub-divided by numerous lanes and alleys. One soon sees that Kuldja was a Tartar town, and that the THE KULDJA BAZAAR. 193 Chinese polish and civilisation it acquired was superficial. Except the two mosques and some of the large buildings which belong to the Government, there are but slight traces of Chinese architecture in the broad streets and in the smaller lanes. All the houses are built of clay, with flat roofs, as in the Uzbek countries of Central Asia. Even the palace in the citadel bears few traces of Chinese taste, and these few are chiefly in the form of lattices and some slight ornamentation on the walls. It has indeed been somewhat refitted, but in general, except for its larger size, it is no different from houses of rich merchants in Tashkent. Most of the long streets of Bazaar- Kutche, just outside of the citadel, are given up to Tarantchi shops, which are for the most part small and insignificant, but just beyond the suburbs, where Dang Dungan and Maimatcheu begin, the bazaar is tenanted by Dungans and Chinese indis- criminately. The majority of the shops are larger and more comfortable than at Tashkent, and the dealer is separated from his purchasers by a counter, or at least by a railing. Besides the shops there were many dealers, who had nothing but a board on trestles on which to display their wares, while others were merely itinerant vendors, carrying all their goods on a tray slung about their neck. In spite of renewed visits I found little of value that had come down from the Chinese times ; all articles of worth or beauty, such as porcelain and bronzes, had been bought up by the Eussians soon after the conquest, and little can now be obtained except by what is tantamount to force — by asking the Aksakal to send private people to you who have articles to sell. All the good jade articles that had been found, had been gradually bought up by the Chinese merchants, and sent back to China through Kiakhta. All the articles I could ob- tain were of slight value, such as chop-sticks, slippers, spec- tacles, mandarins' buttons, and bows and arrows. I was shown several mills on the outskirts of the bazaar, amongst others, an exceedingly interesting paper mill, and a factory for the manufacture of vermicelli, where the paste, after being properly prepared, was placed on a perforated board raised several feet above the floor, and allowed to descend by its own weight. The two most remarkable buildings in the town are the VOL. II. 194 TUEK1STAN. great mosques ; the Jumma mosque of the Tarantchis, which ia situated within the walls, and the Dungan mosque just outside. These, judging by their size and their Chinese architecture, were in all probability constructed at the expense of the Govern- ment. They are faced with large diamond-shaped tiles, and the walls, as well as the friezes of the cornices, are profusely ornamented with arabesques carved in burnt clay. The roofs are large and flaring, with turned up corners in the well-known Chinese style. The Dungan mosque has a wonderful minaret, built of small-roofed pavilions one on top of the other, making a most bizarre effect. The floors of the mosque are of tiles, and there is little ornamentation within, except around the point which marks the direction of Mecca. There is but one Buddhist temple in Kuldja, and that is not yet completely finished ; but what interested me more than either this or the mosques, was a small Christian church which had been established years before by French and Italian Catholic missionaries. These Catholics, who had not for many years been visited by missionaries, were among the first who welcomed the Eussian troops subsequent to the occupation. After going through one or two courts and narrow passages we came to the church, which was a small room. Besides a rude altar with a crucifix, there were two pictures, one of Christ and the other of the crucifixion. Over the altar was a large Chinese inscription. I asked the cheerful young deacon who accompanied us, what that meant. He found some difficulty in expressing himself, but at last slowly said Deus. That was the utmost extent of his Latin conversation, but on my handing him one of the mass books, he read it fluently enough, although with a pronunciation which was at least singular. Whether he understood it is a different question. In one of my walks I had the advantage of being accom- panied by Bushri Haupi, the Tarantchi Aksakal of the city, still a young and handsome man, who gained his prominence by being a good rider and a favourite of the last Sultan. In the various commotions he has succeeded in amassing a good fortune, and his rule is strict if not just. Wherever we went, all classes of the population seemed to stand in great awe of him, and at once explained to him in detail anything I desired A CHINESE RESTAURANT. 195 to examine ; but agreeable as was his company, I began to think that it was perhaps not my best introduction to the ( onfidence of the natives. I therefore preferred for the most part to go about alone, looking into the shops, peeping into the manufactories and mosques, and walking lazily through the bazaars and squares, watching the sports of the children, or looking at the Tarantchi women with their blue gowns and pretty embroidered caps, to being accompanied by an official like Bushri Haupi. But if I wished to ask questions I fared badly, for if Bushri Haupi did not go, it was necessary to t:ike two interpreters, one who could speak Russian and Tarantchi, and the other Tarantchi and Chinese. One morning an officer of my acquaintance invited me to breakfast with him at the chief Chinese restaurant. The ground-floor was given up to the lower classes of the population, while the upper story was reserved for persons who wished for a more substantial meal or for more luxury, — not that the luxury was in any case very great. The walls were lined with wooden tables, at the sides of which were placed rude benches ; but at the table which had been prepared for us in one corner were placed Chinese chairs. The board had been well scoured, and all the apparatus for eating was clean and neat. The room served for a kitchen as well as a dining-room. In the middle was a great furnace, and at the further end were cooks in white gowns and aprons, busily engaged in carving, chopping, and mixing the great variety of dishes necessary for any well ordered meal. Exactly what we ate I am unable to say; but strict orders had been given that no meat should be used in the preparation of the dishes except fowls and mutton, for the Chinese are greatly addicted to the use of pork, which in this region is not always sound. I found every- thing, with the exception of some of the sauces, exceedingly palatable, and the delicacy of the preparation and the beauty of the dishes added greatly to the pleasure of the repast. Everything was served in small bowls, and we were provided with chop-sticks, although as a general rule the Chinese carry these for themselves, and my friend had had the forethought to send by his servant some forks and spoons. Great care hail been taken in the arrangement of the dishes ; the mutton, for instance, was cut in small thin slices and symmetrically o 2 196 TURKISTAN. arranged in a bowl, the edge of the white fat being tinted a delicate rose colour. A salad was made of exceedingly thin slices of radish, each of which was pure white with a red border, and to relieve the dish were a few strips of green pepper. Other dishes, such as rice and fowls, were slightly tinted with saffron or relieved by the bright red of fresh peppers or the dark green of leeks. The number of vegetables found here was really surprising, especially after the paucity of them through Central Asia. We had brought with us a bottle of wine, for the only drink to be obtained besides tea was an extremely strong liquor called by the various races Ju, Junjun, or Shau- ju. This liquor is made by the fermentation of barley, sorghum, rice, and other grains, and contains sixty per cent, of pure alcohol, a great quantity of fusel oil, and sometimes a mixture of opium. The taste is disagreeable and the odour is in the highest degree disgusting. The little which I took seemed like liquid fire. During the Chinese rule ju was distilled under government supervision, and an excise duty was levied upon it. It appears that it is now freely manufactured, but it has of late been found necessary to prohibit its sale where troops are stationed, as its effects are sometimes poisonous. The Russian soldiers are exceedingly partial to it, on account of the length of time the effects of intoxication produced by it last. They say that when they get over being drunk, all they have to do is to warm themselves a little in the sun, and they feel again as happy as ever. On the order of the Commandant, Bushri brought to us one evening some Chinese musicians and comedians. The mu- sical instruments were few and simple. One of the musicians had a kind of flute, another a guitar with two strings, while the third filled in the harmony by beating with a little stick on three porcelain bowls of different sizes, which he held in his hand. The music was very singular, and I was not sufficiently accustomed to it to perceive all its beauty. It must have had some beauty as the natives seemed to enjoy it greatly. We had one or two dances by a man dressed in Chinese costume, who held a long stick of bamboo covered with little bells and jingling pieces of metal. The comedians were only two, a man, and a boy dressed as a woman. They wore the ordinary Chinese dress, except that they were masked for the occasion by the POPULATION OF KTJLDJA. 197 application of flour and a little red chalk to their feces, by odd wigs, and by a few bits of trumpery finery about their clothes. The first piece, which was in the nature of an opera sung in alternate strains, represented first a courtship, then the joys of early married life, and finally the distress of the wife at the long absence of her husband on some trading expedition. He returned, but only to relate with grief to his wife that he had lost all his money and was utterly ruined, and to upbraid her that during his absence she had spent what little he had left at home. Then followed mutual reproaches, threats of suicide and murder, and finally a reconciliation, which was comic in the extreme. The other piece was a farce, but of such a very Chinese character that it was impossible for me to learn what was the subject or what were the situations. Apparently ■ — to judge from the laughter of the few spectators who under stood Chinese — the jests were of the broadest character. Of the population of the city of Kuldja, which is estimated at 10,000, the Tarantchis constitute fully one-half. The number of Tarantchis in the province is now estimated at about 40,000. Baron Kaulbars gives the highest total popula- tion of the province at 130,000, divided as follows : Tarantchis, 40,000; Dungans, 10,000; Chinese and Sibos, 5,000; Kalmuks, 30,000; Kirghiz, 35,000; and Torgots, 10,000. The number of Dungans is probably over-estimated, while the number of Chinese is in reality more. Other investigators estimate the total population at less than 100,000. We know that before the insurrection the number of Dungans was about 60,000, of Chinese 100,000, and of Mantchus 80,000, of which last hardly 500 now remain. According to these data the nomad population have remained about the same, because they suffered little during the war. The total population of the country during Chinese times would have been at least 350,000, i.e. three and a half times more than it is now. From this it is easy to understand the devas- tation caused by the war, and the ruin which, owing to the diminution of the population, fell upon the trade, agriculture, and prosperity of the country. The resources of the province are still great. The soil is fertile, and needs only patient industry and care to render it very productive. As to minerals, the mountains abound in iron and copper, and coal of a very excellent quality is found 1 98 TUEKISTAN. within fifteen miles of the city of Kuldja. This coal is constantly worked, as it forms almost the only fuel of the population, and, in spite of the general rise in prices caused by the Eussian occupation, the price of coal, according to the quality, is from 3 kopeks to 5 kopeks a pud (5s. to 8s. a ton). Other articles of consumption are as cheap in proportion. Beef and mutton cost l^d. to 2d. per. lb., and a fowl can be procured for 2d. Flour costs 20 kopeks, or Id. for a pud of 36 lb. ; unground wheat is half that price, and rice is less, whilst other grains are even cheaper. Prices of grain and flour have doubled and even tripled since the advent of the Eussians, as in 1870 a little more than 100 lb. of excellent flour sold for 18 kopeks. The trade of the province is at present unimportant, and even in the Chinese times, in spite of the efforts made by the Eussians to encourage commerce, neither the imports nor the exports ever reached 30,000/. per annum. Almost everything I saw in the valley of the Hi led me to believe that this was in every respect the richest portion of the Asiatic provinces recently occupied by the Eussians. In the present unsettled state of affairs — as the Eussian Government has not yet decided whether it will retain this province, or restore it lo the Chinese — Eussian colonisation is not allowed. While Kuldja offers a rich field for Eussian labour it is open to doubt whether Eussian peasants, with their shiftless habits, would be able to make as much out of the country, and support as large a population, as did the Chinese with their economy and well- organised system of cultivation. It, however, seems to be the only part of Central Asia that will ever repay the expenses bestowed upon it ; and, from economical and other motives, it woidd seem to be very unwise for the Eussians any longer to entertain the idea of giving it up to China, even should the Chinese send an army sufficiently large to preserve order in the event of the province being handed over to them. At present, as the Eussians have but a small garrison there, the population is only kept down by the mutual hatred of the different races composing it. At the time of my visit there were rumours of an approaching Chinese force, and that the Eussians were soon to evacuate the country. I heard a Tarantchi say, ' As soon as the Eussians have turned their backs we will massacre all the Chinese and Dungans who are left.' The few Chinese still re- THE KUNGES VALLEY. 199 foaming in Kulclja have frequently stated that in the event of the Eussians abandoning the country they would either precede them or accompany them. The Russian administrators are naturally greatly impeded by the uncertain tenure of their sway ; and as they regard their occupation as possibly merely a temporary one, they are unable to take any measures looking to the permanent improvement of the country or of its inhabitants. Temporary measures, how- ever, have been taken by Colonel Wartmann, who has established a small school for the benefit of the Russian soldiers as well as of those natives who desire to learn Russian, to which he has succeeded in attracting about thirty native children. In addition to this six sons of Cossacks were placed at a Dungan school, and at the time of my visit were rapidly displaying great proficiency both in Chinese and Kalmuk. As I was unable to hear of more than one person in the Russian service who spoke these languages, the boys will, in the course of a year or two, undoubtedly be of great use. The inhabitants of the immediate neighbourhood of Kuldja are nearly all Tarantchis, this being the region in which these people were settled by the Chinese authorities. With but few exceptions they are agriculturists. The valleys of the Kunges and of the Kash are inhabited by the Torgots and the Kalmuks, remnants of the old Jungarians and descendants of those Kalmuk tribes who, as I have before mentioned, returned from the Lower Volga in the beginning of the last century. I had no opportunity during my short stay to get so far into the valley, but as the condition of these people is of some little interest, I shall quote a few observations from a report of Mr. Aristof, who visited them in the spring of 1873, and who was for some time director of the chancery for the affairs of Kuldja, and is an exceedingly well-informed and careful observer. 1 ' The valley of the Kunges,' he says, ' is the natural prolonga- tion of the valley of the Hi to the east, extending about 110 miles from its union with the Hi to the mouth of the defile from which it issues ; its breadth is from ten to twenty miles. Including the salt pools and places destitute of water, no less than half of this valley is fit for agriculture, and it is able to support at least 2,000 families. The middle and the upper 1 Quoted by Khoroshkin in ' Turkibtan Gazette,' No. 13, 1875. 200 TUREISTAN. parts of the valley are the best in regard to the abundance of water, pastures, and meadows, as well as for forests. The lower part of the right bank for about thirty miles is waterless and salt, but the left bank of the Kunges, even on its lower course, is only in places covered with salt pools, and is watered by the river Tsanma and by canals brought from the Tekes, which formerly irrigated a great extent of the arable land now aban- doned. In the upper part of the valley, and in the mountain-, there are many species of trees, such as poplar, apple, apricot, elm, fir, birch, and mountain-ash, besides many kinds of bushes and shrubs. The valley of the Kunges is lower than that of the Tekes, but the climate is warmer, and is nowhere unfavourable to agri- culture. The river is everywhere deep, and flows chiefly in one channel, which has a rocky character only in the upper part of the valley. There are few fords. ' During Chinese rule the valley of the Kunges was occupied by nomad Kalmuks of the tribe of Arbun, who now live on the Kash. Since 1871 the valley of the Kunges has been occupied by Torgots, who came here to be under Russian pro- tection from the Yulduz and from Karashar, where they were oppressed by the Kashgarians. The Kunges valley is not en- tirely suitable for nomads and their herds, for although forage is abundant it is very warm in summer, and in the winter the snow is deep. I therefore met in the valley but a very small number of aids with sheep. The greater part of the auls wander during the summer in the mountains between the Kunges and the Tsanma and along the Tsanma and Jirgialan. Here there is plenty of room for them and much grass. The upper parts of the mountain valleys abound in excellent land, owing to the abundance of good soil and water, but the grass is woody, high, and broad-leaved. The Torgots have their winter quarters on the Jirgialan, and especially in the mountains between the Kunges and the Kash, next the tribe of Arbun. Until the Mussulman insurrection the Karashar Torgots were governed by a Khan, who exercised immediate authority over fifty sumuls and companies. In all there were fifty-four sumuls, with one hundred to two hundred kibitkas in each. At the beginning of the insurrection the Khan went to Pekin for the usual presentation to the Emperor, and after that could not return to his tribe, because the Chinese, in part THE TOEGOTS. 201 by promises and favours and in part by threats, retained him in Mongolia, so as through him to keep up relations with the Torgots, from whom they expected to receive help in their campaign against the Mussulmans. Up to 1871 the Khan could not return to his people, in part through the difficulty of getting to the Yulduz through the Mussulman countries. After the occu- pation of Kuldja in the autumn of 1871 the Torgots emigrated from the Yulduz to the Kunges, and the Khan was informed by General Kolpakofsky that he could return to his people. He did not, however, return, for the Chinese were unwilling to let slip from their hands a force which could act upon one of the races living in the valley of Hi. In consequence of this instructions were given that no order of the Khan, in whose name the Chinese began to collect cattle, grain, &c, should be obeyed by the Torgots. After the departure of the Khan for Pekin the second Prince, Gun, was the most powerful individual. In 1871 he came to the Kussians as the head of the race, and was after- wards entrusted with the task of relieving the Torgots. The other princes and chiefs, however, did not leave him, and con- tinued to have relations with the present Khan and with the Chinese Government. With them were associated the wife of the Khan, who with her two sons had remained amongst the people, and the Lamas, of whom there are very many among the Torgots, and for whose support heavy contributions are yearly raised from the people.' 202 TURKESTAN. CHAPTER XIII. THE RUSSIAN ADMINISTRATION. Difficult 'es of administration — The Steppe Commission — Project fol the government of Turkistan — New projects proposed — Opposition to them — The results of Russian rule — Financial and economical — Deficits — Cost of government — Effect of the Russian administration — Character of the officials — Personal relations of Russians to natives — What lias been done for the country— Roads — Schools — Hospitals — Passports — Too much civi- lisation — Elective institutions — Change and variability of Russian rule — Arbitrariness of officials — Influence of bad natives — Corruption and venality — Corrupt officials unpunished — Consequent discontent — Evidences of it in recent events. The extent of the country occupied by the Russians in Central Asia, — 325,000 square miles English, as large as Germany and Italy — together with its scanty and scattered population of 1,600,000 men, no more than that of Denmark, and its distance from the home government, have rendered the work of administration a difficult one. 1 Th^ real strength of the Russians —the power by which they keep down or attach to themselves the native inhabitants— has been, and must for some time be, the army, which in 1873 numbered about 36,000 men, including the Cossacks, and which, since the capture of Khiva and the war in Khokand, has been con- siderably increased. But no sooner had the first step in conquest been taken, and the permanent occupation of Tash- kent been decided upon, than the Russian Government set itself seriously to work to provide some method for the civil administration of the country, and endeavoured to give the 1 This is the Russian estimate without the more recent acquisitions of Kuldja, the Amu Darya district and Khokand, -which would bring up the population to 2,500,000 — a large estimate, though less than that of Switzerland, — and the extent of territory to 460,000 square miles, equal to that of the Austrian Empire, Ger- many, and Belgium taken together. THE STEPPE COMMISSION. 203 inhabitants a more settled government and better laws than they had enjoyed under their native rulers. The movement of 1864 for the formation of a new line to fill up the gap between Fort Perovsky and Vierny, and of which the unforeseen result was the capture of Tashkent, had been made by troops moving both from Siberia and Orenburg under the orders of two Governors-General. Colonel — afterwards General — Tchernaief, after the withdrawal of General Verevkin had for some time almost independent command, and with great good-sense administered the newly acquired territory with as little change as possible from native usage and native law, and by means of native officials. On his recall in 1866, General Komanofsky was appointed Governor, with only a few general rules to guide his conduct in the administration ; but, instead of having an independent command, he was made subject to the orders of the Governor-General of Orenburg. At the same time, in order to learn the special necessities of that part of the steppe which had been newly annexed, as . well as of the city population, which was so different in character from the nomads, a special commission was appointed, consisting of Mr. Giers and Cols. Dandeville, Geins, and Protsenko, which devoted itself for two years to travelling over the country and to study- ing the wishes and interests of the population. This commission — known as the Steppe Commission- — did very good service, and in the spring of 1867 was ready with a report and a project for the better government of the country. The experience of two years had also been useful in showing the Government what it was necessary to do. The project was referred to a committee composed of delegates from the Minis- tries of War, of the Interior, and of Foreign Affairs, under the presidency of the Minister of War, was accepted with modi- fications, and was put in force for a term of three years. The most important of the changes decided upon by this committee were to detach Turkistan from the province administered by the Governor-General of Orenburg, and to add to it a part of the Siberian province of Semipalatinsk, now known as Semi- retch, and place them under the rule of a separate Governor- General, who should report only to the Emperor at St. Peters- burg, and who should have full powers granted to him in certain respects so as to meet emergencies. Against this arrangement 20-4 TURKISTAN. General Kryzhanofsky, the Govern or- General of Orenburg, naturally protested, on the ground that such an arrangement would be premature, as it would be necessary first to bind the region somewhat more strongly to Eussia : for Turkistan being far off from the rest of the empire, and separated by regions inhabited by nomad tribes, an independent administration would seek the motives for its acts exclusively in Central Asiatic life, and would sooner or later come to be in disaccord with the interests and the views of the Imperial Government. General Kryzhanofsky added : ' The period of conquest without a determined purpose has now passed ; therefore the causes also have ceased which would render indispensable in Turkistan persons of authority with wide powers, so that all that the political, military, and administrative needs demand can be met by a military governor acting within the fixed rights given to him.' Another reason was, that as a great part of the province of Turkistan was inhabited by Kirghiz, of exactly the same tribes and families as those in the province of Orenburg, the Kirghiz would be forced to live under two administrations, a state of things which would be productive of disputes and difficulties. Experience has shown that the reasoning of General Kryzhanofsky was sound, but at the time he was alone in his opposition. Mr. Giers and Colonel Protsenko were opposed to inclu- ding Semiretch in the new province, as the interests of the Siberian frontier were so totally different from those on the side of Khokand and Bukhara; but the military authorities, having once resolved on creating a new Governor-General, wished to provide him with a sufficiently large territory over which to rule, in order to prove the necessity of his appointment. One other resolution was arrived at by the committee, which was that the interests of the State demanded that all the ad- ministration be concentrated in the hands of the War Office. The main features of this project are as follows. The Governor- General is appointed directly by the Emperor, and has much the same powers as Governors-General in other parts of the country, with the exceptions provided for by the project. He has besides the right in case of need to suspend the regula- tions or to make exceptions to them. He is at the same time commander-in-chief of the forces, and possesses full power to carry on diplomatic relations with the neighbouring countries. THE FIRST PROJECT. 205 The amount of his salary, which is said to be 50,000 rubles, is not fixed by the regulations, but is determined by a direct order of the Emperor. Under him are the two provinces of Syr Darya and Semiretch, each governed by a Military Gover- nor, receiving a salary of 7,000 rubles, appointed on the nomi- nation of the Ministry of War, and having a general position similar to that of Governors of provinces in other parts of the Empire. The Military Governor of Semiretch is at the same time the Ataman of the Semiretch Cossacks. These Governors are assisted by a council known as the Provincial Eegency, appointed, with the exception of the heads of departments, by the Governor. The province of the Syr Darya was divided into the districts of Kazala, Perovsky, Turkistan, Tchimkent, Aulie-ata, Kurama, and Hodjent, besides the city of Tashkent, which forms a separate administrative division, and that of Semiretch into the districts of Sergiopol, Kopal, Vierny, Issyk Kul, and Tokmak. At the head of each of these departments or Uyezds is a Prefect or commandant, who has both the police and the general super- vision of all the inhabitants of the district, Eussian as well native. The Prefects receive salaries of 2,000 rubles; and although originally resembling in functions the district police officials in the provinces of European Russia, they now occupy a much more powerful and independent position. The nomad population, chiefly Kirghiz, is divided into auls and volosts, the auls comprising from one to two hundred families, and the volosts about ten times as many. These subdivisions are governed by administrators and elders chosen by the people themselves, and under the supervision of district prefects, who have power to remove them in case of failure of duty. Among the settled population one aksakal, literally 'greybeard,' is chosen over each considerable village by the vote of the people themselves ; and in the cities each ward has its own aksakal, whose duties are the same as those of the elders in the police administration among the Kirghiz. Justice is administered by courts of three kinds — a military court, which judges natives for inciting to rebellion, attacks on on the post or on military transports, and for the murder of Christians, or of persons who have declared a desire to become Christians, as well as for the murder of officials. For the trial of Russians and for that of natives for most other criminal 206 TTJRKISTAN. offences, as well as for the settlement of disputes betweeD Eussians and natives, courts are established on the basis of the general laws of the Empire. For all disputes between each other , and for some of the lesser crimes, the natives are allowed courts of their own. In the courts of the nomad jDopulation, of which I have already spoken, 1 the judges are called Kiis, elected by the population, and judge according to the tribal and national traditions. These courts also decide cases of baranta or pillage, and of murder when committed by Kirghiz on each other. In the towns the Kazis, or native judges, deciding according to the Shariat or Mussulman law, are allowed to remain ; but as they are made elective by delegates from the population their importance in the eyes of the natives is much diminished. For the management of the municipal and the communal affairs of the cities and villages in the province of the Syr Darya inhabited by natives, and for collecting the taxes, there were instituted ' economical communal regencies, the members of which are elected for three years at the same time with the aksakals; and although they are under the general direction of the aksakals, and of the district prefects, they are sup- posed to have a freedom of action, and no regulation pertaining to the local needs or to the taxes is thought to pass without their assent. Some of the taxes imposed during Mussulman rule are retained, such as the haradj and tanap, or taxes on land, and its products being fixed at one-tenth of the harvest. The zekat, or customs duty, 2 was fixed at 2\ per cent, on the value of all goods imported into the country, and the same tax is imposed on the trading capital of merchants. A tax is im- posed on the nomad population of two rubles seventy-five kopeks for each kibitka or family. As the native inhabitants have to provide for the payment of their own officials, as well as for the repairs of bridges and post-roads, and for the erection of prisons and Government buildings, another tax is imposed upon them, called the zemskij, or communal tax, the amount of which is to be settled by the police administration and by the Russian officials, and is then levied directly on the towns and villages by the Communal Regency. 3 1 Vol. i. pp. 166-169; ii. p. 140. 2 See vol. i. pp. 204-6. 8 Vol. i. p. 305. THE NEW PROJECTS. 207 Although the term during which this project was to stand expired in 1871, the country has been governed in the main according to its provisions up to the present time There are, however, certain exceptions. The district of Zarafshan, which was annexed in 1868, never came under them, and the rule of the Governor has therefore been almost of an arbitrary kind. The position of affairs in Kuldja and in the Amu Darya Kay on is similar. Certain changes, too, were made in the regulations by the Governor-General, in accordance with the powers granted to him, and among others the haradj and tanap taxes were merged in one general land-tax, which was divided en bloc among the villages, and which has since that time constantly increased in an arbitrary manner, as no survey or measurement of lands has been made. While the government of the pro- vinces still remains in the hands of the Ministry of War, certain exceptions have been made. Instead of the financial arrangement proposed by the regulations, district treasurers and a central finance bureau were established upon the same basis as those, in European Eussia, subject, not to the control of the Ministry of War, but to that of the Ministry of Finance. Soon after a bureau of control was established in Tashkent independent of all other branches of the administration, which has been productive of great good in reducing expenses. The postal system — the sphere of which was subsequently enlarged by the addition of telegraph lines — was taken partly out of the hands of local authorities and rendered subject to the Ministry of the Interior. When the term of the regulations expired — in 1871 — an order of the Governor-General forbade, until the decision of the land settlement, the closing of any sales of real estate by the natives ; in other words, one of the most important rights of civil society was annihilated. It may be added to this that the instructions which, by the regulations, were to be drawn up for the administration of the district prefects never went into force, and the administration of each district was, therefore, different from that of the others — sometimes in the most essen- tial particulars — thus securing no unity of law or method. In 1871 a new project was drawn up, but was not approved at St. Petersburg, and was returned for reconsideration. It was again brought up, in an amended form, in the autumn of 208 TUKKISTAN. 1872, but it did not even then receive the Emperor's consent. In the winter of 1874-5 another and more carefully considered project was brought from Tashkent, and was immediately discussed by a commission containing delegates from all the ministries interested in it. The objections to this project were so serious from a finan- cial point of view, that General Kaufmann, seeing no hope of the project passing the Council of the Empire, withdrew it, but presented it again in an amended form in the early part of 1876. It is said that this project meets with the same oppo- sition from the Ministry of Finance as did its predecessor. The officials of Turkistan have been so long in the habit of spending large sums of money Avithout control, that they have provided for the necessities of the Grovernment on what is, for Russia, a very extravagant scale. The ordinary expenses of the Grovernment are to be increased by the new project to almost double what they were under the old regulations. The expense for the police administration of a city like Vierny, for instance, of 12,000 inhabitants, is estimated at 13,800 rubles, while similar cities in European Eussia demand only from 3,000 to 5,000 rubles a year. 1 It must be admitted, however, that 1 The present annual expense for the police government of Vierny is only 1.200 rubles, so that the allowance in the new project is eleven times greater than the old. The police of Wilna, a city of 69,464 inhabitants, costs only 13,845 rubles. The police in Petrozavodsk, Polotsk, Pinsk, Altsensk, and Berdiansk, cities of about the same size as Vierny, costs from 2,57-5 to 4,448 rubles yearly. It is proposed to expend on the police administration of Tashkent 29,600 rubles, or three times as much as at present. As the native town has its own police, the maintenance of which is a separate item of the budget, this expense is chiefly for the small Eussian population. Even were the expense for the benefit of the ■whole population, the cost of the police in Kishinef, a city of 94.124 inhabitants, is only 17,158 rubles, and in Saratof, of 84,391 inhabitants, is only 15,328 rubles. The inhabitants of Kishinef and Saratof pay 18 kopeks per head, while the much poorer Tasdtentians pay 37 kopeks, twice as much. In Kief the police adminis- tration has 50 members and costs only 24,473 rubles: in Tashkent for a. personnel of 1 1 it is proposed to spend 29,600 yearly. The total pay of the Prefect of Tash- kent, according to the project, will be 5,500 rubles, surpassing that of all police- masters (in St. Petersburg these receive 4,450 rubles, in other cities from 1,182 to 1,478 rubles), and of vice-governors (who receive from 2,273 to 3,441 rubles a year), and equalling that of many governors (29 Eussian governors receive from 5,350 to 5,380 rubles each yearly.) For the chancery of the Governor-General 52,800 rubles is set apart, surpassing the cost of the chancery of every other governor general except that of Wilna. The yearly expense of the Governor- General's chancery at Moscow is 36,561 rubles, at Kief, 54,048 rubles, at Oren- EXTRAVAGANCE AND ECONOMY. 209 the Ministry of Finance looks upon this from a purely bureau- cratic point of view, seeing no reason why the expenses of a provincial district, or city government in one part of the country should be more than in another, and believing that, notwithstanding the distance from St. Petersburg, the expense of administration in Turkistan should be no more than in other remote provinces, such as Yeneseisk or the Amur. From a general point of view, however, the ideas of General Kaufmann are more probably correct, for it is impossible to find honest men, who will prove themselves at the same time capable administrators, for the beggarly salary which they in general receive. It is perfectly well known that in the pro- vinces of European Eussia almost every police and administra- tive official adds to his scanty income two or three and even ten times the amount properly received from the Govern- ment, — getting it in various ways out of the public. In this case, however, while the salaries have been greatly raised, the clief increase of expenses arises from an increase in the number of officials, who are already far too many. Where the Ministry of Finance is clearly right is in thinking that the importance of Turkistan to the Empire and the necessities of its administra- tion do not demand so great an expenditure of money, and that some of the bureaux and boards of administration comprised in the project are utterly useless and unnecessary, and will only cause a waste of money. Such, for instance, is a Forest Depart- ment, — in a country where the trees can almost be counted on one's fingers, — which, with its central board of administration, its officials in each district, and its officers and guardians, is ex- pensive and superfluous. The Mining Department is open to almost the same objection. 1 The Ministry also objects to paying burg, 39,234 rubles; at Riga. 33,412 rubles; of Eastern Siberia, 40,242 rubles ; of Western Siberia, 35,090 rubles ; and at Wilna, 67,628 rubles. By the present system the expenses for the civil administration of the province of Turki&tan are nominally 438.340 rubles; by the new project they are estimated at 1,360,570 rubles, or more than three times as much. In extent the province of Turkistan ("without Kuldja and the Amu Darya) is about equal to that of Semipalatinsk or Tomsk, and in population it is rather less than the provinces of Perm or Viatka in European Russia. 1 For the Mining Department, the sum of 12,750 rubles yearly is asked beside the 28,000 annually spent in exploration for coal. It is also proposed to establish a central Bureau of Archives, at a cost of 5,500 rubles yearly, of which 2,000 rubles go to the salary of the Direct jr. It would har lly be supposed that, VOL. II. P 210 TURKESTAN. 22,000 rubles a year for the support of the 'Turkistan Gazette,' while the ' Journal of the Ministry of Ways of Communication,' and the ' Journal of the Ministry of Crown Domains,' cost about 7,000 or 8,000 rubles a year only, and are of much more importance and use. Another and perhaps more serious objection to the new project, which has also been a drawback of late to the general efficiency of the administration of Turkistan, is the attempt made to apply Russian laws to the natives, and to assimilate the administration of the country to that of the other provinces of the Empire. The attempt to introduce the benefits of a high civilisation, and especially the effort to spread elective and democratic institutions among people whose education for ages has been entirely in an opposite direction, is a most dangerous one. Gen. Tchernaief, who as an administrator was unequalled, and who seemed to know by instinct what it was be^-t to do, strongly condemns the present methods of the Russian adminis- tration, and lays great stress on the rule which he adopted when he was at the head of affairs, that the Russian power should not be placed at the head of the local administration, but as it were on one side, so as merely to control the Government and to protect the inhabitants in case of injustice ; in other words, his idea was to allow the country as much as possible to govern itself in accordance with the old-established laws and institu- tions, thus giving the Russians — by not mixing in the details of the government — a greater moral power, and effecting an enormous saving of money and forces. Another officer of great experience writes as follows : ' The new regiine will assimilate the position of Asiatics to that of Russians and subject them to the same laws, notwithstanding the fact that our Government on annexing the country formally declared to the inhabitants that their judicial system called the Shariat should be guaranteed to them. This declaration constituted one of the chief elements of our moral and political influence over the natives. Of course Russian legislation must be applied sooner or later to the Asiatic peoples who enter into the circle of our in the ten years of Russian rule enough important papers had accumulated to render such a bureau necessary. The Archives of the Senate at St. Petersburg cost but 6,144 rubles a year, those of the Ministry of Crown Domains but 2,164 rubles, while two of the most important Archive Bureaux in the Empire, at Wilna and Kief, together need only 6,109 rubles. THE COST OF CONQUEST. 211 possessions, but it would be better for this to be brought about later than sooner, for it is impossible to use constraint with regard to the manners and customs of the country, and annul a regime of tolerance, especially when we do not even know the country which we wish to reform from top to bottom. In acting thus we committed a great fault, of which our antago- nists have always taken advantage. It is evident that there ought to be no question about introducing new things into a country where we have not yet succeeded in acquiring a just idea of the old.' With these remarks on the theory and character of the Eussian administration in Central Asia let us now consider how these ideas have been carried out, and what the effect has been on both the Eussians and the natives. We will first consider this from a financial and economical point of view. The actual cost of the conquest was very slight. When the first movement in Central Asia was made General Tchernaief received 15,000 rubles for the expenses of the cam- paign, and General Verevkin 200,000 rubles, to which subse- quently 50,000 more were added ; 23-1,000 rubles only were spent, the remaining 10,000 being transferred to Genera Tchernaief. Tchernaief was greatly in need of money, and was obliged frequently to give receipts for the camels and the provisions he took, and also to borrow from the natives. In reality the first campaign was conducted almost entirely upon credit, and when the commission settled up affairs it wa found that the whole cost of the conquest was only 519,500 rubles. This was exclusive of two journeys of General Kry zhanofsky, which cost perhaps half that sum, and of the pay and rations of the troops, which they would equally have drawn had they remained at home in the provinces of Ornburg and Western Siberia. The campaign of General Eomanofsky in 1866 is estimated at 250,000 rubles. The expedition which resulted in the capture of Samarkand cost 150,000 rubles. In this way the cost of acquiring nearly the whole of the territory at present occupied by the Eussians amounted to 900,000 rubles, of which 500,000 were paid by Bukhara as a military contribution. Of course the Khivan campaign and the late campaign against Khokand, to say nothing of the expeditions p 2 ii 212 TUKKISTAN. in the mountains of the Zarafshan, against Shahrisabs and Karshi, and the expedition against Kuldja, have materially added to this cost, but the extension of territory caused by them has been in reality but slight. Central Asia was then thought to be a rich country, and was regarded almost as a promised land. It was believed that not only would it support the troops stationed there, but that it would also afford large and increasing revenues to the Govern- ment. What I have said in a previous chapter about the commerce, agriculture, and mineral resources of the country will show how far this was in reality from being the case. 1 It is. probable that the erroneous idea of the resources of the region had some influence in the establishment there of a Grovernor- Greneral and in making Turkistan a separate administrative region. At the time the argument certainly was used that this would cost no more than before, for no more troops would be necessary, and that there would be merely a transference of ac- counts from Orenburg and Western Siberia to the new province of Turkistan. It was stated in the report to the Committee of Ministers of June 30 (July 12), 1867, that the military administration of the new province, with all the local military boards dependent upon it, would not be any further drain upon the Imperial treasury, as all the expenses could be met by the moneys already at the disposal of the Minister of War, in con- sequence of the economy which would be effected in the ad- ministration of the military districts of Orenburg and Western Siberia, from the territory of which the new province was taken. It was said also that the military-civil administration, although it was a source of new expenditure of considerable amount, would yet make no real difference to the Imperial treasury, as all these expenses would be covered by the province itself, a considerable portion of which would still be left free to aid the Treasury in covering the expenses of the troops. This, however, has proved to be very far from the truth. The military ex- penses of Orenburg and Western Siberia have not to any per- ceptible degree diminished, but have rather increased. The army in Turkistan, owing to new military movements, has been constantly increased, and the military expenses are far beyond what was expected ; they even exceed those of Orenburg and ' See Chaps. V., VII., and VIII. INCOME AND EXPEND1TUKE. 213 Western Siberia combined. In addition to this actual increase of expenses the revenues have been so small as not only to leave no surplus, but even to prove insufficient to cover the expenses of the administration. So far, there have been only deficits in the budget of Tur- kistan, which have increased year by year, until in 1872 it amounted to 5,500,000 rubles, and in 1873 it was probably more than 7,000,000 rubles. The income and the expenditure of Turkistan for the five years from 1868 to 1872 were as follows, in rubles ] : — Year 1868 . 18(39 . 1870 . 1871 . 1872 . Total 1,204.906 2,356,2-11 2,915,983 2,102,955 2,008,374 10,588,459 Expenditure 4,392,940 4,592,460 6,114,883 6,820,945 7,576,116 3,188,034 2,236,219 3,198.900 4.717.990 5,567,842 29,497,414 18,908,955 In these statements of expenditure are not included the pre- liminary expenses for the army for articles which are made in Kussia. These enter into the general budget of the Empire, where there is no comparison of one part of the country with another, so as to show what would be properly charged to the province of Turkistan. Besides this there were received in 1871 400,000 rubles as a war contribution from Bokhara, which are not included in the budget, but were spent without account there. The revenues of the Zarafshan district from 1868 to 1872 do not appear in the budget, being until that time at the special disposition of the Governor-General. These revenues amounted to 335,458 rubles in 1868, to 454,931 rubles in 1869, to 762,058 rubles in 1870, and to 1,414,092 rubles in 1871. In 1873 the taxes were diminished, and the revenues were included in the general budget. An idea may be obtained of the capacities and state of the country by analysing one of the budgets, say for the year 1872. The income of the country is of two kinds : first, that coming especially from the country itself and its population ; 1 The income for 1875 was estimated at 2,509,234 rubles, showing no great development of the resources of the country in the last three years. 214 rUEKISTAN. and, second, that which is, as it were, moved on from Bussia, obtained from the Kussians who live there. The local revenues amounted to 1,328,200 rubles only. Of these the personal taxes and taxes on kibitkas amounted to 566,000 rubles, the road-tax brought 1 54,000 rubles, and the tax on land and its products brought 276,000 rubles. The duty from internal trade was 15,000 rubles. The entire indirect taxes on articles of con- sumption, including the duty on articles of foreign trade, amounted to 224,000 rubles, to which should be added the duty on tea imported from India, amounting to 10,000 rubles. The receipts paid to Government for articles sold were 13,000 rubles, from Government property — as, for instance, rents of shops in the bazaar — 32,400 rubles ; and for freights on steamers of the Aral flotilla, 800 rubles. The coal taken from the Government mines amounted to 4,600 rubles ; but the quantity actually sold in 1872 brought in only 100 rubles. Wood and timber brought in 8,500 rubles. This shows the unproductiveness of the country and the undeveloped state of its mineral wealth. There were collected 21,400 rubles of previous taxes ; and, among smaller items, foreign passports for natives brought in 700 rubles. The revenues received chiefly from Russians were as follows : Direct taxes of various kinds, 6,200 rubles ; in direct taxes, from articles of consumption, 255,000 rubles, most of which was from the excise on spirits. The taxes for rising in official rank brought in 1 9,000 rubles in the year ; the postal revenues amounted to 44,000 rubles ; and the telegraph, which was at that time open to Vierny only, 3,000 rubles ; while the sale of powder and cartridges brought in 1,200 rubles. The sale of treasury notes produced 16,000 rubles ; the sale of various Government property, such as medi- cines, useless things, &c, brought in 14,000 rubles ; and private work at the Government printing office was done to the amount of 2,500 rubles. The return of money illegally obtained from the treasury, fines, and the pension capital brought in 20,000 rubles. The chief increase in articles of revenue is in the excise on liquors, the stamp-tax on documents, and the postal revenues. The excise on liquors and rights for sale of liquors in 1868 was 114,000 rubles; in 1869, 129,000 rubles; in 1870, 213,000 rubles ; in 1871, 240,000 rubles ; and in 1872, 255,000 rubles. The stamp-tax produced in 1S68 3,000 rubles, EXPENSES IN 1872. 215 and in 1872 26,000 rubles ; but this was not placed on a proper basis before the year 1870. The postal revenue was only 9,800 rubles in 1868, and in 1872 was 65,300 rubles. As the natives do not use liquors to any extent, it being' against the principles of the Koran, the excise is paid, of course, by the Russian population only ; and as in the course of five years the produce of the tax has more than doubled, it would seem as if the Russian population had also doubled in that time. It is, how- ever, not probable that the Russian population of Turkistan is more than 100,000, from which must be deducted the Tartars, who do not drink ; consequently every Russian in the province during 1872 paid a tax of at least two rubles per head for the right of drinking ; a large sum as compared with the usual statistics for the use of liquors in other populations. It was at first expected to unite all branches of the administration under the War Department, but this was found to have a very bad effect upon the finances of the country, and it subsequently became necessary to take the finances, as well as the post, away from the control of the military. Since that time a branch of the control department has been established in Tashkent, which has succeeded not only in greatly reducing the expenses, but in returning to the treasury sums which had been erro- neously taken from it. The main items for expenses in 1872 are in round numbers as follows : — 1. Salaries and expenses of officials 2. Pay and maintenance of the army 3. Horses for the cavalry and artillery 4. Medical department of the army 5. Building expenses . 6. Lighting and heating 7. Munitions of war . 8. The Aral flotilla . 0. Travelling expenses 10. Transportation 11. Postal expenses 12. Printing Office . 13. Extra expenses 14. Schools. 15. Geological and economical investigation 16. Provincial expenses, roads, budget, &c. 17- Assistance to Cossack troops, &c 18. Various expenses . Rubles 802.40: 3,015.200 1,249,100 138,800 205,000 252,900 36.900 57,800 129,200 222,700 696,800 29,700 486.200 12,600 29,300 146,1 jO 38,700 51,400 216 TURKISTAN. The total expenses amount to 7,576,186 rubles; to this sum should be added at least 500,000 rubles for the expenses for articles for the army, &c., made in other parts of Eussia, but destined for this province. If we at the same time deducted those revenues raised exclusively from the Eussians residing - in the country, about 361,000 rubles, we should find the real local income as about 1,627,000 rubles, while the expenses would be 8,000,000 rubles. It will be seen that the expenses of government are very large, but it is difficult to say exactly where economy should begin. Before the recent war with Khokand, and the popular discontent manifested at the time, good judges of the country — men who had themselves served there — believed that only half the present number of troops was necessary, but it is doubtful whether such is now the case. Such a diminution of the troops would of course materially reduce the expenses. There are also other things which, perhaps, are not great in themselves, but which mount up to a large sum. For instance, the ex- pense of the Tashkent fair, during T872, amounted to 150,000 rubles — an expense utterly useless and uncalled for. The sum of 30,000 rubles is expended on the repairing and keeping up the house and garden of the Grovernor-Creneral ; 30,000 rubles a year are also given to the horse-breeding esta- blishment, which. — although if properly cared for, it might be of some service to the country, — is not an absolute necessity, and serves merely as a comfortable berth for certain members of the Governor-Greneral's Chancery. When the province of Turkistan was brought under a separate Governor-General it was thought that it might probably reduce the expenses of Orenburg and Western Siberia, but experience has shown that the expenses of these provinces are not at all diminished, and we have the addition of very large sums to keep up the officials, and staffs of officials, who are now in Tashkent. As Turkistan is a separate governorship-general and military district it must have all the central administrations, in order that it may be entirely inde- pendent of others. Thus, there is a central administration of artillery, a central administration of the army, a central adminis- tration of the finances &c, ail of which could be quite as well managed at Orenburg or Omsk. General Tchernaief, who cer- tainly knows the country as well as anyone, in a long and able COST OF PROVISIONING- TROOPS. 217 report which he made in 1872 to the Ministry of Finance expressed his strong opinion that it would he advisahle on finan- cial as well as on political grounds to return to the old order of things — to abolish the office of Governor-General, and to restore the province of Turkistan to the Governor-General of Orenburg. At the time of the march of the Russian troops to Tash- kent it was thought that it would be of great advantage to occupy the fertile oasis of Central Asia, for one reason, among others, that it would be so much easier and cheaper to support the troops. It is questionable, however, whether this has proved to be the case. In 1872 the Treasury spent, for the provision of the army, 972,777 roubles, which, with an average of 30,000 enlisted men, the number returned, would cost 32^ rubles per man ; and in these figures are only included flour and groats. The expense therefore is enormous, but it is easily understood when we see that a quarter of flour costs in Tashkent from 10 to 12 rubles, which in almost any province of European Russia would be considered a famine price. The maintenance of the cavalry is still dearer. The number of horses belonging to the Government in the whole district is between 4,000 and 5,000, and 1,000,000 rubles is spent for forage, con- sequently about 200 rubles per horse; yet this is the country where we are constantly told that the harvest is sometimes eighty to one hundred fold, and that twice a year, while clover and hay can be cut four times a year. Although cattle-raising is the main occupation of the Central Asiatic Steppes yet the Government pays not less than 2 rubles 40 kopeks for a pud (36 lb.) of beef or mutton, a price which would even be dear where cattle- breeding was unknown. There is one curious thing in connection with the prices paid for provisions : grain is dear because there is a tax of ten per cent, on the products of the land. The Government in 1872 received as the produce of that tax 276,000 rubles, and at the same time spent about 2,000,000 rubles for flour and forage. Ten per cent, on this is 200,000 rubles, and supposing that three- fourths of these provisions were produced in the country, the Government must have paid itself, in the province of Syr Darya, at least 150.000 rubles of this tax from one hand into the other. The remainder of the sum received, therefore, 126,000 rubles, must have fallen on the population, which in the province of 218 TURKISTAN. Syr Darya is not less than 800,000, who, it follows, were sup- ported on 1,260,000 rubles, while 30,000 troops required 2,000,000 rubles. It would seem from this that something must be wrong with the commissariat or with the financial system. It is evident from the foregoing that Turkistan is not, and will not be for some time to come, a self-sustaining province ; but, at the same time, such a result could hardly be expected in the ten or twelve years that the Russians have had possession of the country. The primary objects which led to the occupation of Central Asia were rather military than financial ; and as long as the province is considered valuable from a military and political point of view the financial burden must be borne. It seems, however, difficult to expect great ultimate profit from the. country from any point of view ; the utmost that can be desired in this case is that strict economy be practised, the expenses of the country reduced, and its capacities developed, so as to diminish the burden as much as possible. Many wars will constantly be made, and the Russians will have to go further on, not with the desire of conquest, but from circumstances over which they have no control ; for in such a case it is always necessary to maintain the prestige of the country, and not allow the neighbouring powers to take advantage of any seeming weakness or hesitancy. So much has been said in Russia, of late, of the cost of the government at Turkistan, that, by a skilful manipulation of figures, an effort has been made on the part of Tashkentian officials to prove that, instead of there being a deficit of nearly 19,000,000 rubles during the five years, 1868 72, there has been, on the contrary, a surplus of nearly 4,000,000 rubles. This has been done by deducting from the expenses all those which relate to the support of the army, or indeed to the mili- tary forces ; and this method of viewing the subject is advanced on the ground that the cost of defending the frontier and of maintaining intact the boundaries of the Empire should not fall alone upon the province where the troops are stationed, but should form part of the general expenses of the Empire, of which the province in question should bear its own proper proportion only. There is, indeed, a grain of truth in this, but the 40,000 troops now stationed in Turkistan are not there for THE COST OF TUEKISTAN. 219 the sole purpose of protecting the frontier. Their main raison d'etre is to keep down and govern the population of the pro- vince. Besides this, in estimating the cost of Turldstan to Russia it would be unfair to leave out of view the military expenses, because, had the province not been occupied, these military expenses would not have existed. With the exception of the few Siberian, Orenburg, and Ural Cossacks who have been sent into Turkistan, the troops are all local, as may be seen by their being called Turkistan battalions. They are acknowledged as an army for the purpose of defending Turkistan, and were enrolled for that purpose. They are an addition to the mili- tary forces of the country, no regiment or company of which has been abolished to make room for those new battalions. It may not, perhaps, be necessary that the province of Turkistan should be able to pay the whole expense of its government, but in that case the question must necessarily arise to every reflecting man, what are the advantages resulting from the occupation of the province which counterbalance so great an additional expense ? \ The effect of the methods of Eussian administration in Central Asia upon the troops and officials themselves is a matter of curious inquiry. In this respect I can hardly do better than rely upon the report (written in 1871) of an officer who at that time held a high position in Turkistan, which, being written from an almost exclusively military point of view, is all the more valuable. According to this authority the na- tives profess profound respect for the Eussian army, for it is, in their eyes, the only expression of Eussian power. ' The military instruction and the morale of our soldiers have sensibly improved. The victories which they have gained over the Asiatics, and the tradition of former exploits, have raised their spirit and rendered them capable of supporting unheard- of fatigue. Our troops have done more than could be desired. They construct houses for their own needs a d establishments for the administration. They clear up the old roads and make new ones. They cut wood, assist in the colonisation of the country, and furnish vigorous workmen. It is impossible to sa.' that they execute all these works without prejudice to their military qualities, although their 220 TURKISTAN. actual state is very satisfactory, especially for a country such as Central Asia. In order that they may attain the desired degree of perfection which the Eussian army ought to present much time is necessary, as well as a whole series of reforms, which would tend to ameliorate their condition. For our troops in Turkistan to attain the desired degree of instruc- tion they should first of all be relieved from the outside work that occupies the greater part of their time. Their moral state and their discipline will reach the desired degree of perfection when the Administration is able to satisfy their most pressing needs and give them their arrears of pay which are still due. The spirit of our army will be raised when it sees that the Government is careful of its good maintenance, and that measures are taken to prevent it from suffering any delay in its supplies. ' But the true scourge which engenders the moral unhealthi- ness consists in the corps of officers. That is an essential point in the defective condition of our military organisation in Turkistan, which in more ways than one merits the attention of our Government. As long as the military administration does not give up the habit of getting rid of its bad officers by sending them to Turkistan, and as long as the army of this region does not cease to serve as a refuge for the scum of military society, we cannot in any way elevate the "morale of the army or organise its discipline on a more solid basis. In the mass of the army this category of officers passes unseen, especially where large bodies of troops are collected together ; but in Turkistan, where the troops are disseminated over a vast territory in small numbers, and where the best officers are kept at the principal points, the bad officers must necessarily paralyse by their presence results which could be obtained through ameliorating the corps of officers of Turkistan, by sending out young officers who had finished their courses in the superior military schools. With what eyes, in truth, can we regard a great part of the officers which the Guard and army furnished to the troops of Turkistan ? Most of them, pressed by circum- stances which they themselves create, by an irregular life, so that they find themselves incapable of fulfilling the simplest duties of their profession, seek to pass into the army of Turkistan as the only hope of regaining their lost time. The presence of OFFICERS AND OFFICIALS. 221 bad officers in the ranks of this army, not to speak of the deplorable influence that it exercises on the soldier, creates serious embarrassments in the military administration, for the reason that the facibties which war in Asia presents to officers to distinguish themselves and to obtain promotions pushes on individuals with whom the Government does not know what to do when they have reached the rank of colonel. They claim superior employments when they have never fulfilled the duties of subalterns. Simple good sense indicates that it would be much more rational to send to a country where promotions are obtained with greater ease than anywhere else officers capable and worthy of exercising superior functions.' The institution in Turkistan of a local military government, which has taken the name of Civil Military Administration, constitutes also one of the principal causes of the defective condition of the troops. The best officers, on account of their good instruction, easily obtain places in this administration, which presents to them without contradiction more advantages than would be offered to them by simple service in the army. There are few officers who do not pull every string of intrigue in order to secure some place in the local administration, which will guarantee to them notorious advantages over the ordinary service. The enormous difference that exists between the posi- tion of an officer who makes part of the administration and that of a simple officer of the army poisons their mutual relations and feeds a continual antagonism between them. On the other hand, the very organisation of the local military administration has encouraged a state of things which keep up among officers of all ranks relations which should not be tolerated in the military service. For example, an officer in the army who should desire to pass into the administration, or to obtain a commis- sion, or to be sent as courier to St. Petersburg, would address himself, not to his immediate chiefs, but to the persons from whom he hoped to have the greatest chance of success. Thanks to the continual tendencies of the local administration to over- pass the sphere of its action and of its authority, it has known how to arrange it so as to obtain all that it wants. It is to its influence, therefore, that the officers have recourse to obtain their desires. The decisions of the administrative authorities with regard 222 ' TURKISTAN. to the steps taken by aspirants to positions as members of the local administration are sometimes contrary to the usual for- malities. It is thus that the nomination of officers of the army to administrative posts is made by a decree of the Governor- Greneral without the preliminary authorisation or consent of their superior chiefs ; and these latter, seeing the futility of their efforts to ameliorate the state of the troops confided to them, and to create a good body of officers, prefer to quit the country. It is difficult to measure all the gravity of the consequences which can result from such a state of things, and the corrupting influence which it must exercise on the discipline of the officers, in consequence of the arbitrary acts of the persons entrusted with the superior administration of the country, as far as the nomination of officers of the army to administrative posts is concerned. The absence of all regu- lations on this head, notwithstanding the frequent notifications that have been made by the Government to the authorities of Turkistan inviting them to conform to the prescriptions of the regulations of military service, is very detrimental. The best officers of the army naturally seek in every possi- ble way to take part in all military operations, in order to obtain rewards which may recompense them for all that they endure in ordinary times in comparison with their comrades who exercise administrative functions, and whose service is easier, more lucrative, and more advantageous as concerns their career. After having obtained an advanced grade they covet in their turn the administrative posts. It is, besides, to be remarked that in purely military service the officers of the army meet with rivals even among the civil functionaries. These latter sometimes take upon themselves the duties of aides-de-camp, of ordnance officers, or chiefs of control, and sometimes of officers of the staff; that is to say, that they intervene in the dispositions and against orders without understanding them. The soldiers ridicule these im- provised military men, and the officers take offence at them, for these intruders enjoy a great influence over the superior officers, to the prejudice of the army. ' All that has been said sufficiently proves that the army cf Turkistan, the only source of our power in Central Asia, is considered as a gate through which one ought to pass in order FAVOURITISM TO FUNCTIONARIES. 223 to create for himself an advantageous position outside of its ranks. For that reason we ought not to be astonished that this same army is worse cared for in other respects. Crown lodgings have been taken away from military commanders to be given to the officers of the local administration, for whom the Grovernment has extended its kindness so far as even to construct country houses. The chiefs of the sections of the Chancery of the Grovernor-Greneral receive salaries and presents far superior to those of generals. In 1870 the extra rewards of each of them surpassed the total of the salary and per- quisites of the commandant of the artillery of Turkistan. The pecuniary rewards that the simple copyists of the same Chancery received for having taken part in the expeditions of 1870 were greater than those received by officers of merit for all the hardships that they underwent.' The preponderance exercised by the administrative element, and the preferences granted to it to the detriment of the military class, explain with sufficient clearness why our officers of merit, who know very well that the army constitutes at present the only source of Russian political preponderance, profess hostile feelings to- wards the functionaries of the local administration ; and if they are not devoted to their profession they seek by every possible means to leave the precarious position which they occupy in the ranks of the army. Under the influence of all these conditions most of the officers of Turkistan think little of their army service, and are not in a state of absolute subordination to their imme- diate chiefs, who cannot obtain for them lucrative situations. ' One of the essential conditions for the good morale of the army is the regular provisioning of the troops, which is a proof of the constant solicitude of the chiefs with regard to their subordinates ; but, as respects the commissariat, the military region of Turkistan is far from being in such a situa- tion that we can say with assurance that the troops receive all they need and remain satisfied. The provisioning of the troops is done in a slow and indecisive manner. The service of the commissariat is subjected to a crowd of minute formalities and to the requirements of the Control Department, which are applied with difficulty under the conditions which govern the troops of Turkistan, and especially the Cossack troojas. These last generally leave Turkistan in exchange for others without 224 TURKISTAN. having received all the articles which ought to be furnished to them, which provokes correspondence without end between the staff of the Cossacks and the commissariat of Turkistan. This correspondence takes much time from the service of the com- missariat, and prevents it from occupying itself with current affairs and the provisioning of the army of Turkistan, which produces continual discontent in the army. Complaints come from every side, and remain disregarded. The troops suffer from this state of things, — to which it is impossible to see any end. The true cause of all this disorder consists in the insufficient number of the employes of the commissariat de- partment, which cannot suffice for such a vast region as that of Turkistan. The absence of capable and experienced indi- viduals, and the defects in well-organised communications, are also two of the principal causes of this state of affairs. ' ' The administration of the engineering department is also one of the sources of difficulties. It contains several good officers, but it is badly directed, for its chief gives more import- ance to his role of subordinate to the Commander-in-Chief of the region than to his own functions. The investigation which has been carried on, and which has already revealed many abuses, will certainly explain the bad state of engineer- ing works in the region of Turkistan, which are slowly carried on, thanks to the penury of the administration of the engineers, the resources of which have been so restricted as not even to permit winter lodgings to be constructed for all the troops of the region. In the month of November of last year (1870), two battalions of sharpshooters of Tashkent (2nd and 3rd), be- longing to the best troops of the region, were still encamped in their huts, and themselves worked in making bricks to build barracks, which were not ready before the end of the month of December. At the same time a bazaar was built quite close to the barracks, which cost 40,000 rubles. By passing the winter in a place which had just been built, and was consequently very damp, the soldiers suffered much; and they must have been astonished at the activity displayed by the administration in the construction of the bazaar, while a small portion of the sum which this edifice cost would have spared them much suffering by erecting for them suitable winter lodgings. It is evident that such facts cannot exercise a EUSSIAN CIVILISATION. 225 salutary influence on the morals of the soldiers and officers. In other localities of the district of Syr Darya there are also no barracks, and the soldiers are crowded in hovels, which occa- sions among them much disease. The commissariat and the administration of engineers leaves, as we have seen, much to be desired.' J . . . ' In the eyes of the natives we are far from being on the moral height on which we ought to have placed ourselves as soon as we arrived in Central Asia. We have not been able to inspire the natives with confidence, which ought to be the principal source of our moral influence and of our political preponderance. The high moral qualities which ought to have carried the civilising mission of Russia to the natives have been wanting. The most of the functionaries of our administration in Central Asia have been distinguished by their bad characters. They have wasted the money of the crown on their own plea- sures ; and, notwithstanding that several of them have been pardoned while their inferiors have been condemned, the inves- tigations which the Government ordered to discover the guilty parties lingered on for several years, and remained without results. The natives see all these regrettable facts, and com- ment on them in their manner. They say, " How are the Rus- sians better for us than the Khokandians ? They also take away from us our daughters and our wives, and also love presents and waste the money of the Tsar, as the Beks wasted that of the Khans." ' The Asiatics have not found in us what they hoped to see, and what we promised them ; and consequently they can with- out the least scruple point their fingers at our social sores, for they see them and understand them better than we. Our ex- ample produces on the people that we have conquered, as well as on their neighbours, an impression much more unfavourable than will at first be believed. Our civilising mission has been limited up to this time only to the propagation among this people of our paper money, and in return we appropriate all their faults. That cannot give them a high idea of our moral superiority. And this is the reason why for a long time since 1 The evils here complained of have since been partly remedied, and the state of the troops is now greatly improved. VOL. II. Q 226 TURKISTAN. "we have not pretended to rule the Asiatics otherwise than by the continual pressure of our arms. 'In pointing out the principal causes which derange all the springs of our moral influence in Central Asia we must consider for a moment the question of the present organisation of the Grovernment of Turkistan. The general administration of the country has no uniformity, and shows in no way the presence of an established principle or a unified power. The divergency of views and conduct is felt at all grades of the official ladder, and maintains a continual antagonism between the different organs of the Government, which gives rise to parties and renders a settled policy impossible. Each party forms the centre of a group of persons eager for office and profit. Such a state of things enfeebles our morale, and, thanks to it, our civil and military employe's are busy for the most of the time, not in doing their duty, but in carrying on intrigues for which our administrative system in Turkistan offers a vast field. Everybody thinks only of making a quick career, of occupying an advantageous post, and of obtaining increased rank, and nobody gives himself the trouble to take into account the duties imposed upon him by the fact of his being a Russian, and by the civilising mission which Eussia pursues in Central Asia. Thanks to the condition of our administration itself, our functionaries arrogate to themselves the right of explaining their duties as pleases themselves. At Tashkent, which is the centre of the administration, there is no public life, for properly speaking there is no society — there is nothing to unite men who are fully absorbed in their own thoughts. The chief evil consists in the confusion of the military and administrative powers, and in the complete absence of any distinction between them. The superior military and civil authority is concentrated in the person of the Governor- General, who is at the same time the commander-in-chief of the military forces of the region ; but in inferior instances it is divided between the chief of the chancery of the Governor- General and the chief of staff of the region. According to the law the action of the first should be confined to purely ad- ministrative affairs, but in reality he enjoys all the prerogatives of a chief of staff, especially in all that concerns the local administration of the country. The officers who administer EVILS OF MIXED ADMINISTRATION. 227 the country depend much more upon the chief of the chancery of the Governor-Greneral than upon the chief of staff. In the provinces the two powers are, again, united in the persons ot the military governors, who are at the same time the com- mandants of the troops of their provinces. They unite the two distinct powers divided in the preceding instances, the interests of which, thanks to the actual regime, constantly clash and sometimes become hostile. In the districts the military-administrative authority is further divided between the administrators of the districts and the chiefs of the troops who are quartered there. These last are sometimes in great perplexity, not knowing to whom they ought to turn, whether to the military commanders upon whom they directly depend or to the representatives of the administrative power, who enjoy considerable influence, and consequently in these cases they prefer to obey those who at the given moment have most weight with their superiors. 'The preponderance which the military-administrative ele- ment exercises to the prejudice of the army is hardly an advantage for our influence in Central Asia. In the eyes of the natives the military uniform does not enjoy a great im- portance. In their conscience they regard the military com- manders as the sole representatives of power and force. They do not understand that a chief can inflict a punishment or a fine without being able to make his orders respected by the force of bayonets. In the eyes of a native a chief by rank only who does not command soldiers is not a chief, but as, at present, the influence and credit enjoyed by the military chiefs of the district depends chiefly upon the degree of favour which they have been able to obtain for themselves with their superiors, it very often happens that the natives address themselves in their affairs by preference to commanders of troops, who cannot satisfy them, for fear of encroaching upon the rights of the persons set over the administration of the country. This, of course, provokes continual discontent among the natives. On the. other hand, the commanders of the troops seek by all means to acquire the goodwill of the administrative authorities, and for greater security prefer to submit to their orders even in purely military affairs. It is evident that our influence cannot become consolidated so long as such a regime exists. The Q 2 228 TURKISTAN. army, which represents our force, and the administration, which is the expression of the civilising order which we have intro- duced into the countries conquered by our arms, are two distinct elements which cannot be amalgamated without hindering the progress of the work we pursue in Central Asia. The com- mander of the troops ought to be detached from the adminis- tration of the country and to enjoy a complete independence in the sphere of his activity. But a purely military adminis- tration was also indispensable, and we ought to have begun by declining every interference of the civil element in the affairs of the country. We were not sufficiently strong morally to admit the existence of a civil administration independently of the support of the military element. As the creation of a mixed administration — military and civil — which is what has been introduced into Central Asia, presents only an accumu- lation of military and administrative functions, the sole result is to confuse the situation. In order that the results of our conquest may be consolidated the administrative element must be prevented from interfering in military affairs. The two powers must act separately, and consequently there must be an entire separation between the civil and military adminis- trations, or the civil administration must be replaced by a military element. Since we feel ourselves too weak to govern without the help of military force, we ought to yield to a purely military organisation, supporting ourselves by the force of arms, which is for the moment the only stay of our political role, and which still continues to exercise its prestige on the natives. in spite of the fatal blows that have been given to our moral influence by our defective administration in Turkistan. So long as this administration exists we cannot make ourselves respected, and our army ought to make unheard-of efforts to regain the ground which our administration has made us "lose. The full powers which are enjoyed by the persons who administer different localities encourage them to use their authority arbi- trarily, without consulting the real state of things or the true interests of our situation. They sometimes arrogate to them- selves political roles, and, strong in the protection which they enjoy near the superior authorities, they sometimes permit themselves to utter threats and defiances which they are not able to carry out by arms, and which are attended by the FALSE ECONOMY. 229 gravest consequences. Such proceedings can only degrade us in the eyes of the natives. ' As long as the present regime continues in fr rce our ad- ministration in Central Asia will remain sterile, and our com- merce can only progress under the patronage of our bayonets. In undertaking our civilising mission in the East we had prin- cipally in view the opening of new markets for our products, which would not support the competition of Europe. In com- parison with the state of Asia, Kussia will always be a civilised power, but it cannot consolidate its military and political influence so long as its administration gives the example of internal confusion. It will be still more difficult to counter- balance the resistance offered to it by a powerful and pre- eminently commercial nation, whose resources are far above those which are at present at the disposa'l of the actual ad- ministration of Kussia for advancing its mission in Central Asia. ' The demands for extraordinary credits remain several months and sometimes a year or more without being satisfied. Con- sequently arrears are not paid, and the provisioning and the arming of the troops are subject to delays which cannot but cause discontent. The army of Turkistan is placed in thoroughly exceptional conditions, and cannot be assimilated in administrative relations with troops of other regions of the Empire. The insufficiency of the financial resources set apart for the administration of Turkistan, and the deductions made by the central Grovernment from the demands of the Tur- kistan Administration, with the sole object of economising, evidently cannot improve the course of events in Central Asia, or restrict the expenses, which are necessitated by circum- stances. In all other parts of the Empire the financial administration is able to satisfy the demand for credits with promptitude and without the least embarrassment, while in Turkistan it allows delays which cause much suffering. I have been able to judge to what point these delays are hurtful. They exercise the worst influence on the morals of our army, for the officers and soldiers remain several months without receiving their pay, and it is not astonishing that the former regard their position as precarious, and exert all their efforts to obtain a place in the administration of the country. The position of the soldier is far from being as disadvantageous as 230 TURKISTAN. that of an officer, for in Turkistan the troops can find resources in work. Most of the workmen and artisans are soldiers, and earn much money. The native population does not furnish good workmen to the Russians, and accordingly the greater part of the residents and the employes in the administration are obliged to have recourse to the labour of soldiers. Unhappily the number of military workmen is very restricted, and cannot satisfy the always increasing demand of the population. It follows that the soldiers, feeling themselves masters of the situation, only augment the price for their work, but the true evil is that the artisan-soldiers receive orders from the officers and officials, and for the most of the time fulfil them in a very bad way. They often insist upon being paid in advance, either wholly or in part, without fulfilling their orders, and such things remain unpunished. The pecuniary relations which are thus established between the officers and soldiers, who know that their superiors cannot find workmen except in their ranks, and that consequently they are in their hands, produces an injurious effect on the morals of the soldiers, and especially from a disciplinary point of view. It is, moreover, to be remarked that drunkenness is widely spread among the troops; and owing to this vice, which is a great scourge, the conscientious execution of orders is very rare. ' It has often been my duty to bring soldiers before a court- martial for drunkenness, but they almost always found pro- tection with their immediate chiefs, who, for fear of producing the discontent of their subordinates, sought in every way to excuse them. It was with great difficulty that I succeeded in obtaining a verdict of condemnation against a soldier of the Arsenal, who had his private lodging, wore a civil dress, and kept a carpenters shop and a drinking-house. This individual took part payment from fully twenty persons under the pretext of guaranteeing by the money he received a contract for wood which he had with the Government, and deceived them all, for he neither performed nor repaid the advances. The consumption of spirits in the army takes prodigious dimensions. Our medical staff has always condemned the usage introduced into Turkistan of regularly furnishing the troops with liquor together with the rations. This usage has a pernicious effect upon the morale of the troops in habituating them to the . THE CONDITION OF THE TROOPS. 231 use of strong drinks. On the other hand, the advantage of the use of whisky in exceptional circumstances cannot fail to be re- cognised when a certain dose of cordial can be of real service to the soldiers, and the commissariat ought to have in store a supply of whisky for the use of the army in case of war. The con- tinual distribution of spirits ought to be abolished, and the money that the commissariat can economise under this head ought to be applied to increase the meat ration received by the soldiers. ' The military instruction of the troops in Turkistan is without any preconceived plan. The military authorities do not take into account the tactical education of the soldiers. Their exercise at every review ought to terminate with a tactical manoeuvre. The military commanders, after being convinced that their soldiers are accustomed to the exercise of arms and know how to manoeuvre, ought to set them to resolve some tactical problems, as, for example, the passage of a river, the occupation of a strategical position, the attack on a height, &c. Without this tactical education, to which the military administration at present attaches very great importance every- where except in Turkistan, our armed forces in Central Asia will always be inferior to the Eussian troops of other districts. It will perhaps be alleged that our brave soldiers of Turkistan, even without this tactical instruction, know how to conquer their enemies. This allegation is just, but it is not neces- sary to lose sight of the fact that our soldiers have so far had to struggle against undisciplined and badly armed masses only ; consequently they could easily conquer them without possessing the fighting qualities which are indispensable in a war against regular armies. The courage and self-denial of our troops are two superior qualities which make them triumph over all obstacles in a war with half-savage people. But our army in Central Asia will have many other difficulties to overcome in Asia itself, and will have to confront very different enemies as, after having triumphed over barbarian hordes, we approach nearer to India — they will have to struggle against enemies armed in the English way, and therefore in possession of every means of offering an obstinate resistance to us. The purely moral qualities, and the aptitude for the use of arms, cannot guarantee to our troops in the future the same success as that which they have achieved against irregular masses. /N 232 TURKESTAN. It is especially necessary to take pains with the military instruction of the Cossack troops, and to make of them a true combative force, for at present their organisation leaves much to be desired. The greatest power of our armed force in Turkistan is represented by the Cossacks, who have received no military instruction, and can only fight in irregular masses. As regards tactics they hardly differ from the nomadic hordes which we have to fight. The short period of their service, which does not allow them to learn the trade of arms while fighting side by side with organised troops, and their being scattered over a vast territory, would oppose great difficulties to every effort tending to transform their masses into a well- organised combative force. In this respect it would be desirable that measures should be taken to remove the inconveniences presented by the Cossack troops, whose presence in Turkistan has no other effect than that of augmenting the expenses incurred by the army in our Asiatic possessions. The natives have no fear of our Cossacks, considering themselves their equals in tactics. It is absolutely necessary to increase the term of service of the Cossacks to five years, to give them a special chief, who could constantly watch over their military education, and to unite their scattered masses in a single body. So long as there is no chief of the cavalry vested with entire authority, and thoroughly competent in his sphere, we cannot expect any profit from the Cossack troops. The corps of Cossack officers is. far from showing the qualities which have generally been attributed to the children of the Don and the Ural. Those amongst them who are not nominated to the command of a sotnia, which procures for them certain profits, are impatient for the arrival of the Cossacks who come in exchange, thinking it the day of their deliverance. Many of them try by every means possible to leave Turkistan before their time, and neglect their service. They sometimes push their neglect so far as to cause the most flagrant insubordination among their inferiors. It is natural that under such conditions the Cossack troops will become in time a real cause of embarrassment for our military organisation in Central Asia.' Since this report was written the state of the Eussian troops in Turkistan has no doubt greatly improved, although they are still lax in discipline. The importance of a sincere opinion RUSSIAN INTERCOURSE WITH NATIVES. 233 from one thoroughly acquainted with the subject, is so great as, I think, to justify the long quotations I have made. The Steppe Commission, of which I have spoken, which elaborated the project of 1867, worked honestly to discover the needs of the country, and drew up their report in the interest both of Eussia and of the natives and for the purpose of giving to the region a fairly good government. The Eussians have always displayed a certain facility in dealing with half-civilised peoples. Personally they have not so much of that contemp- tuous feeling towards the natives which is so marked in the dealings of the Anglo-Saxon race with people of lower culture and civilisation. This is plainly shown from the fact that they do not hesitate to entertain social relations with them. There is not that feeling of the vast difference which separates, or which in the opinion of some should separate, an inferior from a superior and ruling race, so that Eussian officers and officials are willing not only to receive natives in their houses but do so receive them and meet them upon terms of social equality. It is questionable whether in some cases this does not diminish the authority of Eussian officials, for I have sometimes seen natives display less respect towards Eussian officers in their dealings with them than would have been permitted to Eus- sians of similar social rank. Indeed, it may be said that the natives hold aloof from the Eussians rather than the Eussians from the natives, a circumstance in part due to an antagonism of religion rather than to a difference of race. But the gulf between the conquerors and the conquered has been widened and deepened through defects inherent in methods of govern- ment subsequently developed, as well as through the faults of the administrators, of which I shall speak later on. When the Eussians advanced into Central Asia they found many ready to welcome them, partly because they were discon- tented with the law of the Khan and of the Amir, with the extortions that were practised and with the frequent execu- tions, and because they desired anything for the sake of peace and quiet. Immediately after the Eussian occupation there was a great feeling of relief and of assurance that every man's life was safe and his property secure from arbitrary taxation and seizure. The Eussians, too, manifested at first a desire to 234 TTJRKISTAN. improve the condition of the natives, and some of the measmes which were taken were properly appreciated ; but with the abuses which crept into the administration these measures were turned from their proper destination, and the administrators seemed to care more for their personal advantage than the welfare of the Government. What has been actually accom- plished for the people, therefore, is really very little. Another officer, writing in 1872, after five years' service in the country, during part of which time he was a district prefect, writes : ' We constantly demand more and more from the population. With regard to taxes, unfortunately, we are, always demanding more and more. But wmat have we ourselves done for the people ? We have, indeed, given them quiet. We have protected them from rapacious neighbours, and we have lessened the constant capital punishments. But that is all. To the economy and the life of the people we have brought absolutely nothing except eloquent speeches made in Tashkent and in the sessions of various commissions." This is perhaps the pessimistic view of one who, as I well know, had devoted himself heart and soul to the interests of the people under his charge, and who found no reward for his work except discontent, as he was constantly overruled by the higher powers in Tashkent, and even in years of bad harvests was obliged to exact increased taxes. The Russians have done something for the material interests of the country, and have endeavoured even to accomplish more than they have done, though their efforts, sometimes from wrong direction, have failed. The roads are being greatly improved, which seems a little strange when good roads are almost unknown in Russia itself. Bridges are being constructed over the chief rivers, and canals for purposes of irrigation are being projected. Russian engineers, however, have yet to learn from the natives with regard to irrigation, nearly all the attempts in this direction having proved failures. I have already spoken of the little which has been done for commerce and manufactures, of the commercial treaties which are practically useless, of the effort to establish a fair, and of the failure of so many projects for starting factories for spinning cotton and silk, not to mention others of less importance. Rus- sian colonists not being permitted to settle in the province of the EELIGIOUS FREEDOM. 235 Syr Darya, the Russians have had no opportunity, except in the immediate vicinity of the larger cities, of showing the natives improved methods of agriculture. But even in this respect nothing but failure has resulted. The growth of cotton, as I have before remarked, has not been improved ; and even the vine- yards and mulberry plantations in the neighbourhood of Tash- kent, owing to carelessness and inefficiency, have proved failures. As far as religion is concerned the conduct of the Kussians is deserving of the highest praise. No restrictions have been placed on Mohammedan worship or practice except that the Der- vishes have generally been forbidden to appear in the streets, being considered disturbers of the public peace. No efforts have been made to spread Christianity ; and although churches exist in Tashkent and in the various garrisons, and there is a bishop of the province, General Kaufmann has speedily put down all missionary projects. The consequence of this is that Mohammedanism, instead of growing stronger, has grown weaker, the natives not having been led to attach themselves more dutifully to their religion because it has been forbidden by the Kussians. On the contrary, the abolition of native functionaries to compel the performance of regular religious rites has allowed much indifference and carelessness to creep in. 1 Sanitary measures in the cities have been taken by the Russians, hospitals have been established, and during the cholera time a well-organised method of visitation attended with ex- cellent results was arranged for the purpose of preventing the spreading of the disease. These things the natives begin to appreciate. As far as education is concerned the Kussians have done but little. In Samarkand, owing to the vigorous efforts of the prefect — himself a Mussulman — a small school was opened for the instruction of Mussulman children in Russian ; but at the time of my visit no schools for natives under Russian auspices existed either in Tashkent or in any other town in the province of Syr Darya, except the small Kirghiz schools in Perovsky and Kazala. It has several times been proposed to introduce the teaching of Russian and modern sciences into some of the Mussulman high schools, and this project was upon the whole viewed with favour by the authorities ; but owing to the lack of initiative the matter was neglected. In 1 See vol. i. pp. 161, 162. 236 TUEKISTAN 1875 General Kaufmann had a plan for the regular establish ment of a scholastic district in Turkistan, subordinate to the Ministry of Public Instruction, and inspectors have already been appointed. This, however, chiefly refers to the education of Eussian children. For the instruction of Mussulman chil- dren, it is necessary to begin at the beginning, and this will more easily be done by a private initiative assisted by the Government, than by a plan of schools under the direct manage- ment of the central government. But in Eussia it seems impossible to do anything unless a regular system be provided, with all the grades of directors and inspectors, visitors and teachers, with all the usual bureaucratic apparatus, and with a constant interchange of reports and documents. One of the Eussian institutions which has been introduced, although without that profit which the Eussians perhaps ex- pected, is that of passports. In the independent countries of Central Asia passports have never existed, except in the form of protections issued by the Khan, or Bek, to persons who specially demand them. For that reason the rule which was made, that every native travelling from Eussian Turkistan into the other countries should be provided with a passport, has not favourably impressed the natives, being considered a financial measure adopted for the purpose of obtaining the fees which are to be paid when the passport is given ; for in the native countries, of course, the passport is never looked at. These passports are in Turki on a printed form, which for some reason bears a Persian heading, the meaning of which was intended to be ' open leaf,' the term by which a certain class of passport is known in Eussia. In Turki the words for ' open ' and for ' bitter ' are very similar, so that the translator in asking the appropriate Persian word obtained the word for 'bitter.' The passports, therefore, are headed talkh nameh, or ' bitter paper,' a name which the natives find singularly appropriate. One great defect of the Eussian administration has been the introduction of institutions which were not in consonance with the feelings and the usages of the natives. Such has been the introduction of elective institutions, the Mekkeme, 1 or 1 The Mekkeme of Tashkent was a sort of City council with the functions of a court of justice, founded by General Eomanofsky. Its members were partly Sarts and partly Kirghiz, elected by a popular vote. It was never useful, circumstances soon compelled a change in its constitution, and it is now practically abolished. THE ELECTIVE SYSTEM. 237 City Council of Tashkent, the Aksakals and Regencies chosen by the settled and nomad population, and the elective judges. What was intended to be a real advantage to the natives, in allowing them to have a certain voice in the management of their affairs and in enabling them to express to the Russians the wishes of the population, and to explain their own customs and traditionary observances, degenerated into a mere farce. If the population chose as their representatives men of great popularity, and who previously had exercised considerable in- fluence in the country, these elections were viewed with distrust, as showing the fanatical spirit of the people, and were frequently set aside. It was always easy for the Russian authorities to insist upon the election of any one they wished. The result has been that many persons refuse to allow them- selves to be elected, and even abstain from voting, so that the members of the Provincial Regencies are, in fact, named by the Russian officials, and serve merely as their tools. "With regard to the judges, the power of the Russian Grovern- ment to appoint Kazis is admitted even by Mussulman law. Under the Mussulman rule the Kazis had always been ap- pointed by the chief of the state, and their appointment by the Russian authorities would only have been the carrying out of an old custom. In practice either bad and weak men are chosen, because they are able to secure Russian influence, and perhaps enjoy a certain popularity amongst the natives, or men are chosen who were Kazis under the Mussulman rule, and are able to get into their hands an amount of power and in- fluence which render them objects of suspicion to the Russian authorities. The first case is equally bad, for the decisions of inefficient and corrupt judges in the end necessarily caused distrust and complaint, and the Russians are obliged to inter- fere either to quash the decisions or to insist upon their being carried out, which excites discontent under the Russian rule. The interference of the Russians in these affairs has sometimes been very injudicious. For instance, lately, Azim Kazi, of the Bishagatch ward of Tashkent, who had a very bad reputation amongst the natives, was not re-elected, in spite of the sup- port given to him by the Russian authorities. But, as the successful candidate was accused of being a fanatic, his elec- tion was quashed, and the choice of Azim was rendered obli- gatory, — the people were simply ordered to elect him. 238 TUEKISTAK The elected members of the Regencies and of the councils have no voice in the management of affairs, and are never con- sulted. All the resolutions are drawn up by the district or local commanders, and the natives are ordered to set their sea] to them. Sometimes these decrees are explained to them, some- times not. It is seldom that they are written out in Turki, so that the natives have no method of ascertaining for what they have voted, except through the explanations of the interpreter. An official report says : ' No member of the economical Regency knows either the rules or the duties of the Regency, a fact which I ascertained by personal conversations with them. The estimates are made up not only under the influence but directly by the orders of the district prefect. The expenses are in- creased by no reason emanating from the Regencies, but by the will of the prefect, the members of the Regency naively assuring me that the taxes for the general purposes of the dis- trict had been augmented by the will of the White Tsar — that so the hakim, or prefect, had stated to them.' One of the consequences of this system is that in almost every district there is some shrewd native, who has learned to speak Russian, who has succeeded in ingratiating himself with the officials, and who is used by them and uses them for the purpose of oppressing the natives and making the fortunes of individuals. Sometimes these natives bear an official character — usually that of a native assistant to the prefect. Sometimes they are simply private friends of the officials. The latter position was enjoyed by Said Azim in Tashkent, of whom I have already spoken, while an example of the oppression worked by a native official may be seen in the case of Omar, in the district of Kurama. Another difficulty arising out of the ignorance of the Russians of the country and its institutions, as well as of the temporary character of the regulations, is the constant change in the laws and decrees. Both governors and prefects are constantly making new regulations and changing in some slight respect either the duties of the inhabitants or the ways in which they should be performed. These changes are es- pecially observable in all that concerns taxes, and it is here that they are most deeply felt by the natives. Many years ago a prominent inhabitant in Tashkent said to a Russian NATIVE FEELING. 239 general, ' We could understand if the Eussians tormented us to get money out of us as the Khokandians did, but we cannot understand the reasons which induce the Russians to spend their own money for the purpose of tormenting us without getting any advantage for themselves. What he meant by ' tormenting ' was the constant efforts of the local administra- tion for what they imagined to be the welfare and advantage of the natives in ways which they could not understand. I fear that such a remark would hardly be uttered now, as it begins to dawn on the native mind that the Eussians are as eager for money as were the Khokandians. On this subject I will quote from a paper written by the Prefect of Ura-tepe, in 1872, to explain the cause of the riot at Hodjent in the spring of that year. 1 1 This mob, discontented with the orders of the Government, is an expression of the dissatisfaction of the whole population with the entire series of quickly succeeding supplements, ex- planations, additions, and institutions, which were foreign to all the ideas of Central Asiatics. That the confidence of the popu- lation in the sincerity of the Eussian rule has been rudely shaken by such constant changes I am deeply convinced. It has been shaken, and cannot help being so. On every new re- gulation the natives look distrustfully. It cannot be otherwise. I explain this by facts of which I was in part an eyewitness and in part an agent, for more than once I have been obliged to declare one thing and afterwards to do another. 'On the organisation of the districts in 1868 we collected thousands of people and talked to them of the elections, saying 1 This Prefect — Captain Antipin — who "was a remarkable exception to the general rule of officials in Tashkent, and who during the years he was at Ura- tepe thoroughly devoted himself to the welfare of the people under his charge — was so indignant on hearing that the riot at Hodjent was attributed to vacci- nation only, that he considered it his duty to write a paper showing the true cause of the mob to be the general discontent with the Russian rule, and ex- plaining the cause of that discontent. This paper, to which he signed his name, was intended for publication, but was previously submitted to a high military official at St. Petersbiirg, who, in turn, showed it to General Kaufmann, who then happened to be at the capital. The General forbade the publication and re- quested the destruction of the manuscript. The Prefect was at once removed from office, and was sent away from Central Asia, as being ' politically worth- less. Fortunately a copy of the document had been kept, and was afterwards published in the ' Eussian World.' 240 TURKESTAN. directly to them : " Choose from your masses really good men who mean well towards you, men who are capable and honest, and can understand and appreciate your wishes, and who will always have in view the advantage and welfare of the people and the increase of their prosperity. Choose men who will be really mediators between you and us, for the Government cannot listen to requests proffered by a whole crowd. Mediators are necessary to tell us of your real needs, and we shall always be ready to listen to them and find a just reply." This was, so to speak, the introductory speech with which each of us engaged in the work of organisation turned towards the people, and I believe called out the warmest sym- pathy from the native population, and caused them to look on their delegate as a man in whom they reposed a special trust. The rich and ambitious men even intrigued and contended with each other to be elected aksakals or members of the Adminis- trative Regency. But a year passed, another passed, and these delegates, in consequence of the imperative requests for one thing or another, turned out to be merely agents of the higher power without any real share in the administration. No one consulted with them or listened to them about the wants of the people, and they themselves dared not speak, for orders were given to them which they were obliged to obey. At last these delegates were not received further than the anteroom of the district prefects, and sometimes they were even turned out of the doors of the Government offices by the mere scribes. When there was such a contempt on the part of the Russian authorities for the representatives of the population, it is not astonishing that the importance of the native representatives fell ; and now, instead of trying to secure these offices, many delegates refuse the honour. Such a position of the native delegates is not in consequence of the arbitrariness of the authorities nearest to them, although in one way these last are partly to blame. Instead of turning the attention of the superior authorities in Tashkent to the injurious effects of certain proposed measures, they, as a rule, limit themselves to the literal fulfilment of the orders emanating from Tashkent, not entering into the position of the inhabitants or the condi- tion if the country. On the other hand, the civil administra- tion seems to forget that we are in Central Asia, where much INCREASE OF TAXES. 241 is unsuitable that is possible in Eussia. It leaves without due attention the character and needs of the people, and it seems to desire to show that everything is possible for us, that every- thing- can be done, and that it is only necessary to order, exactly as would be the case in the province of Yaraslav. ' On the organisation of the districts the following taxes were declared to the whole population collected in the bazaars : 1. The haradj, or one-tenth of the harvest, instead of the one- fifth which had up to that time been collected. 2. The tanap tax in its former quantity, though not from a tanap of 140 feet wide and long, as before, but from one of 175 feet square, according to the abundance of the harvest, and according to the prices fixed for each kind of produce. 3. A tax for the salaries of the aksakals and their officials according to a decree of the community, in the proportion which it should think need- ful and proper. 4. Instead of a bazaar tax from shops and country people who brought their productions to the bazaar, it was decided to take one-fortieth part of the capital of the shop- keepers who had on hand wares of the value of not less than 40 tillas (150 rubles). As concerns the nomad population the zekat on cattle "was retained and a Jcibitka tax of 2r. 75k. was established on each Jcibitka. At the same time a proclamation was made to the people that besides these taxes nobody should pay anything more to anyone, that this law was made once for all for increasing the prosperity of the people, and that an end had been put to all arbitrary acts and unlawful taxes and con- tributions which had existed under the rule of the Beks and the Khans. Let us see how these promises were kept. ' 1. The haradj had been declared to be one-tenth part of the harvest. Not a tenth alone, however, is taken, but as much as is ordered by the authorities at Tashkent, who two years ago turned the haradj into a fixed land-tax which might be a tenth, a twentieth, or perhaps a half of the harvest, even during the two years in succession of bad harvests — in 1870-71 in the district of Hodjent. We must suppose that the haradj, which, in direct opposition to our original promise, had been turned into a land-tax, did not aid in increasing the welfare of the taxpayers and consequently that of the whole mass of the people. ' 2. The tanap tax has met with the same fate. It also, from being a tax dependent upon the quantity of the harvests and the VOL. II. K 242 TUKKISTAN. prices of produce, has been turned into a fixed tax, which has been increased every year, notwithstanding the bad harvests of 1870-71. The amount taken from the tanap lands in ac- cordance with superior orders was not higher than in preceding years. The Administrative Regency of the district in these two years proposed to diminish the tax or to defer collecting it, as there had been no harvest, and pointed to the fact that, according to the ancient customs of the country, the rulers had always entered into their situation, and when assured of its reality had diminished or had entirely given up the tax ; but the requests could not be taken into consideration by the District Prefect, because he had already received his orders that a fixed sum of taxes must be raised ; although in order to explain his refusal in some way he felt himself obliged to say that the declaration of the Eegency was false and improper. * 3. The tax for the salaries of (he aksakals and other officials. On the organisation of the district it had been stated to the people that besides the Government taxes the population should take upon itself the support of the aksakals and of the elders of the aids, paying them a certain salary according to the judgment of the community, but under this head there were afterwards in- vented by the administration many other taxes under different names, which altogether are now united under the general head of " taxes for the economical needs of the community." It is easily intelligible that the mass of the community cannot sympathise with these taxes, which, in opposition to what had been stated on the organisation of the district, have been increased to almost double what they were. This increase of taxation has of course corresponded to the gradually increasing needs of the people ; but still, to the majority of the population, this tax seems only a means of getting money out of them for some purpose they do not understand. I will give an example. In the begin- ning of the year 1870 there was at Ura-tepe a session of native officials from all the villages for passing the budget proposed by the District Prefect for the general needs of the community. In this budget were certain expenses, besides the salaries of the ahsakals, with new names ; and the amount to be raised was considerably greater than in former years. At this session there were more than 300 persons. Each item of the pro- posed budget was fully explained to them, but still the dele- BROKEN PROMISES. 243 gates did not admit the necessity of the new expenses. Some of the rich and respectable people, who were not delegates, asked my permission in the name of the whole community to give their opinion about these taxes. I allowed them to do so, and here are their exact words : " The tax for the communal expenses and the salaries of the aksakals accord- ing to the decision of the community is in our opinion un- necessary. The persons elected can very well serve for three years, receiving as much from the Government as their ser- vices deserve, but increase of taxes is by no means necessary. If this increase be made through the wish of the Grovernor- General, then let him say so and order it, and it will be col- lected, for we consider his wish as law. If this tax be made by the order of the White Tsar, and be necessary for the sup- port of the Eussian soldiers who have given peace and protec- tion to the country, to-morrow even we will give twice as much as this sum and all that the Grovernment will consider necessary and possible for the district of Ura-tepe." ' 4. From the nomad population it was declared that there would only be taken a kibitka tax of 2r. 75k. from a kibitka, and that the zekat on cattle should be in proportion, but that there should be a small additional tax for the salaries of aksakals and of aul elders to be fixed by the community. All this was declared in 1868, but since then a new tax — a road-tax of 75k. on a house or kibitka — has been imposed, both on the nomad and on the settled population. There was afterwards an ad- dition to the taxes for the economical expenses of the community, so that at last the payment for each kibitka was brought to five rubles and even more. This road-tax and the tax for the general expenses excited at the time much criticism, and not criticism alone. It is perfectly well known that in order not to excite the discontent of the people on account of the imposition of new taxes in 1869 and 1870, these taxes were paid by the Ad- ministrative Kegency out of the proceeds of the haraclj and tanap taxes. ' The reasons for this were that at the organisation of the district there had been no mention of the road-tax ; and as the sum raised for the payment of the salaries of the aksakals had already been made into a fixed tax, the Administrative Regenc}', understanding that the declaration of the new taxes would E 2 244 TUEKISTAN. bring upon themselves suspicion that the tax had been imposed by their sanction, as the people formerly believed that the Government had once declared that the tax would never be increased, thought it better for the first years of this new tax to take the sum ordered by the Government from the tanap and the haradj, increasing these taxes in a proportionate measure. ' Although this action of the Regency — the illegality of which is apparent — was known to the superior authorities, it was thought best to say nothing about it. In this way, notwith- standing the promises to the people to impose on them no taxes except those declared on the organisation of the districts, yet- during a period of nearly three years a whole series of new taxes had been inflicted upon the poor population, which even without that had been impoverished by the preceding wars and dis- turbances. These taxes, which brought us no actual profit, necessarily had a very injurious influence on the material pros- perity of the inhabitants, who at the same time see no necessity for them. Therefore, when these supplementary and new taxes little by little became known to the people, when the haradj of the tenth, and the tanap according to the harvest and the fixed prices for produce, were turned into a fixed tax ; and further, when the zekat on cattle driven to the bazaar, which had been abolished on the organisation of the districts and replaced by the kibitka tax (to which were subsequently added a road-tax and a tax for the general needs of the community,) was still collected in spite of the formal promises of the Administra- tion ; and finally, when the bazaar-tax, which had been abolished, was replaced in the form of a tax upon weights and measures, it became evident to the people that the promises for diminu- tion of taxes which had been made on the organisation of the district were only empty words, and they became convinced that the demands of the Russian Administration were gradually be- coming worse and worse under the new taxes and imposts which had been passed upon the people for the last three years. They then proposed to pay the haradj and tanap, not as one- tenth, but as one-fourth of the harvest, and they asked to be freed in that case from all other taxes and imposts of any kind, which ruined the poor and were burdensome even to the rich. ' It is clear, then, that since the occupation of the country by the Russians the condition of the population, in spite of all her LEGAL AND ADMINISTRATIVE METHODS. 245 promises, has not only not grown better, but, on the contrary, ia every day getting worse and worse. How far this constant increase of taxes and imposts can go, the population of course cannot understand. It is therefore not s f range that the fiighf- ened imagination of the Asiatics saw in the late collection of statistical information the desire of the Administration to get hold of their whole property. An instance of this belief is the fact that after the registration of property made for the purposes of statistical information several natives went to Eussian acquain- tances and asked them if a fowl could be taken to the bazaar for sale, or did it already belong to the Government ? With such a state of the popular mind it is evident that only a spark is necessary to inflame it.' But no matter what institutions the Russians may introduce into Central Asia, it would seem hopeless to expect anything . like good government until either the character of the officials is changed or they are submitted to a stricter discipline and inspection. It seems almost impossible for a Russian adminis- trator to conceive of such a thing as legality. They are strict in observing the forms of law so long as they relate merely to modes of procedure and to the filing and signature of papers, but overstep it at once the moment it seems easier or more convenient for them to do so. I am not now referring only to officials in Turkistan; how to confine the administration within the strict limits of legality is a subject which has exercised many statesmen and political students in European Russia. It seems to be a principle firmly implanted in their official breasts that law and respect for law are very good things for ordinary everyday life, but that the moment a circumstance arises, which in the opinion of the official most nearly concerned is ex- ceptional, law is no longer practicable, but that what he calls administrative methods must be employed. To those who have been brought up to respect the law this constant overstepping and transgression of legality seems scarcely conceivable On the Central Asiatic, who of course has no idea of what Russian law is or in what way it is transgressed, the arbitrary action of the officials produces a similar and yet different effect. This arbitrary action and these administrative- methods are seldom alike in two adjoining districts, and a native can hardly help regarding the whole system as an irresponsible tyranny of the 246 TURKISTAN. worst sort. Under Mussulman rule his Khans and his Beks were tyrannical, but still they were Mussulmans, men of his own race and of his own belief, with similar character and holding to the same customs and traditions. Cruel and tyrannical as they were in many respects, there were certain bounds which custom forbade them to overstep, and were these bounds too greatly or too frequently passed the popular discontent was such as to drive them from power. But for the Eussians there seem to be no limits. They are of an alien faith, they seem to know little and care less about the old customs and traditions of the country, and to a man of Tashkent or Hodjent, who knows nothing of the intricacies of Russian law or of the methods of Eussian administrative life, honour and prosperity seem to be at the mercy or the whim of the Eussian official. 1 1 Mr. N. Pet-rofsky, in a remarkable article on Khokand in the ' Messenger of Europe,' October 1875, says : ' As concerns the Mussulman despotism destroyed by Eussian institutions, it would be difficult for us to guarantee that these institu- tions seem less arbitrary and despotic to the natives than did their former Mussul- man ones. Under Mussulman sway tyranny and arbitrary rule indeed existed, but this tyranny was far from being without limits, and was as much a product of the country as were all its other institutions, morals, and customs. It was native there and it was understood there. Although the Mussulman ruler and his officials educated in the same milieu and with the same ideas as his subjects acted arbitrarily, they nevertheless knew well where their tyranny could begin and where it ended, knew its extent and its limits. In consequence of their ex- clusively religious education of the same character as that of the whole mass of the population, and of the common character of their life, of their customs, and of their habits, the Mussulman rulers confined their tyranny within certain well known and fixed limits, and their arbitrariness was considered as a necessary attri- bute of their power, without which the very existence of their rule would be in- conceivable. On the other side, the people too looked on this arbitrariness with the eyes of their ruler, seeing in him not a tyrant and a persecuting despot, but a lucky favourite of fortune, who had received the right to arbitrary and uncon- trolled power. Brought up with such ideas the native of Central Asia well knew all the ramifications of this tyranny, from the Bek to the lowest Aksakal inclusively, for the ground on which and the limits within which the arbitrary power was exercised, were as well known to the first as to the last. In a word, the native was. at home with Mussulman tyranny. He had ages ago been accustomed to its existence, and knew how r to live under it. From a European point of view such an arbitrary rule as we see in Mussulman states, may of course appear horrible, but from a Mussulman point of view it is perfectly natural and legal. The rebellion against Khudayar Khan is no proof to the contrary, but rather strengthens my position. Khudayar Khan lost his Khanate because his tyranny ceased to be Mussulman and became a mere mad exercise of power unlimited by any traditions. If this despot, instead of the unconcealed and, so to say, open pillage of his subjects, had covered it up by fictions of law, or by the rules of the Shariat (as the Bukharan Amir does) and had continued it, he would have re- CORRUPTION. 247 It is not only the fact that cases of glaring corruption and venality have occurred, but that these cases when brought to the notice of the Governor-General have frequently been condoned, and the guilty officials allowed to go unpunished, which has exerted a very bad influence on the minds of the natives. The superior officials have their favourites, and are disposed to uphold them in spite of charges of maladministration. The natives have been hindered in every possible way from making complaints. They have even been turned away from the house of the Governor when they had assembled there to present a petition. A very striking illustration of this was shown in the management of the Kurama district, one of the most fertile and thickly settled of all the provinces, surrounding, but not including, the city of Tashkent. The prefect of this district is said to have levied 90,000 rubles of illegal taxes, all of which he spent for his own use, besides Government money, and yet he resided within five miles of the palace of the Governor- General, and was known to be living in a style, with frequent dinners, suppers, and gambling parties, entirely impossible upon his small salary. Among other charges against' him was one with regard to a misappropriation of savings funds. These mained on the throne, and would probably never have been compelled to journey to Orenburg from " unavoidable circumstances." ' After describing the various projects for the government of Turkistan, and the changes introduced into the laws, the author continues: 'It is necessary to remark that neither the first regu- lations nor the project which was subsequently applied, were ever translated into the native language. The natives were expected of themselves to understand the — for them — complicated organisation of the Russian government, and to guess at the relations of the various branches of the administration which were quite new to them, and not easily intelligible. If we add to this that Turkistan has but few men who know the native languages, and has great need of good interpreters, it will be understood with what eyes the natives look upon our institutions, even ■were they the best and most perfect in the world. Naturally these institutions appear to the natives to be far more arbitrary and far more tyrannical than those under which they formerly lived under Mussulman rulers, not because they are really arbitrary and tyrannical, but because, seeing their frequent change, the native is not able to understand and explain to himself either the meaning of the frequent changes, or the existence of these institutions. All this — I say it without finding fault — creates among the natives a general discontent with the Russians, which is not diminishing, but on the contrary is increasing, and is being propa- gated in the neighbouring Khanates, excising vain hopes for the return of what they have lost, and encouraging them to such acts as the constant demands for the return of Samarkand, and even to the invasion of our territories.' 248 TURKISTAN. funds had been instituted for the benefit of the population, but by a subsequent regulation, approved by the Grovernor-Greneral, permission was given to spend them on the administration needs of the district. This money, about 22,000 rubles, entirely dis- appeared, and no accounts of expenditure were given, although it was said that part had been given to the horse-breeding establishment, and that part had been used in fitting up the house of the prefect. This affair was creating a great im- pression when I was in Tashkent, in 1873, and finally a series of inquiries ensued as to the disposition of the money — in- quiries which for a long time remained without answer. The natives complained also that money had been taken from them at different times, on all sorts of pretences, and in an entirely illegal way. A decree had been issued forbidding all peisons to cross the Syr Darya at any other point than the places speci- fied in the order, threatening persons who did so with being sent to Siberia. The points specified were places belonging to the friends of the prefect. At last matters became so scandalous that the Governor-General was obliged to take some notice of it. He therefore removed the prefect from the district, and sold his property for the benefit of the Crown, not realising, however, one-twentieth part of the sums which had been misappropriated. But, instead of punishing this man, he merely removed him to another locality, stating that he considered him a most useful official. A letter from Tokmak, dated May 3, 1873, published in the ' Golos,' No. 172 of that year, stated a similar occurrence with regard to the savings funds in the district of Tokmak. Since 1865 a tax of twenty kopeks on each kibitka had been col- lected from the nomads of Semiretch, to be devoted to the general needs and to the demands of the local Kirghiz, espe- cially for making loans to them. This fund, with the interest, amounted in 1871 to more than 23,000 rubles. Up to 1873 not a single Kirghiz had received any of this money on loan or as a grant, and out of this Kirghiz capital more than 18,000 rubles had been applied for other purposes — 10,000 for loans, 5,000 of which were not to be repaid. In this sum were in- cluded the journeys of different officials and their extraordinary expenses, searches for coal-mines, the expenses of completing and repairing the house of a former assistant-prefect, and loans TOKTURE. 249 were even to be made to Eussian merchants, one for 8,000 rubles, for completing a distillery. The conduct of the Prefect of the district of Perovsky was investigated, and he was removed for extortion and bribery. Instead of being punished he was appointed to the district of Aulie-ata, where his conduct again called for investigation, and he was removed for exacting an illegal contribution from the natives on the occasion of a demand for camels for the Khivan expedition. Other persons have in like way been removed from one post for maladminis- tration, and have immediately received another. An employ^ in the Construction Department, in addition to advances for work subsequently not performed succeeded by forged orders in obtaining from the treasurer at various times an amount stated to be about 15,000 rubles. When this was first dis- covered, his friends, including the acting Governor, whose duty it was to arrest him, endeavoured to make up the amount, or to so arrange the accounts us to cover up the defalcation ; but the deficit finally proved too great, and it became necessary to take official notice of the isuct. He was allowed to escape ; but meanwhile the matter had become so well known that he was again arrested, and will probably at last be brought to trial. On the other hand, any persons who endeavoured to en- lighten the public as to the state of affairs were immediately punished. Correspondence with newspapers was strictly for- bidden, and the commandant of the district of Ura-tepe was removed and sent out of the province, for a paper on the riot at Hodjent, of which I have already spoken. In some cases acts, not only wrong in themselves, but bringing with them very important consequences, have been committed, not from a desire of personal gain but from a wish to appear zealous in the performance of duties, or from motives of intrigue. A case which happened in 1873 is especially noticeable. An officer named Eman, in possession of a con- siderable amount of Government funds, gave information that he had been robbed by the Kirghiz. The chief Kirghiz living in the neighbourhood of the alleged occurrence were arrested, and after a long examination twelve of them acknowledged their guilt, though the money cuuld not be found. While their trial was going on Eman committed suicide, leaving a letter in which he stated that he was not the honest man that had 250 TURKISTAN. been supposed, as lie had himself spent the money and made the excuse to clear himself. The Kirghiz were then, of course, released ; but the question arose, why had they confessed ? and on an investigation it was found that the judicial officer, Baron Of of Vierny, had extorted confession from them by means of torture, a practice wholly at variance with Russian law and certainly very disastrous for Russian influence amongst the Kirghiz. As the result of this investigation, Baron Of ■ was transferred in the same capacity to the district of Perovsky. There was another case in the same neighbourhood, at Kopal, where a district prefect had been robbed, beaten, and severely wounded. As he was most deservedly unpopular for the extortions he practised upon the natives this was not to be wondered at. Over sixty Kirghiz were accused of partici- pating in this act, the chief of them being the Sultan Tezak, holding the rank of a major in the Russian service, the most aristocratic and respected of all the Kirghiz chiefs, and a well- known and lifelong friend to Russia. The chief evidence against him was that some of the property stolen from the prefect was found in his tent. One investigation succeeded another, until a Cossack finally confessed that he had placed these articles in the tent of Tezak at the instigation of the judge himself. It is said that this was done because the judge wished to please the clique of officials at Tashkent by con- victing of robbery and sedition a man very much favoured by Gfeneral Kolpakofsky, of whom they were jealous. Among the papers of the investigating commission is a letter from the prefect to the judge with regard to the means of obtaining this evidence. For various reasons it was long impossible to finish the investigation, for as soon as a commission showed a leaning to the side of the authorities of Semiretch, it was im- mediately dissolved by Gfeneral Kaufmann, — but it was thought necessary to remove the judge and bestow upon him a similar post in the city of Hodjent, where his methods of administer- ing justice also gave rise to loud complaints. 1 The effect of such a proceeding was, of course, to make the natives thoroughly displeased with the workings of the Russian courts. A decision was finally rendered in 1875 by the Senate at St. Petersburg, by which Sultan Tezak was acquitted. This was • See vol. i. p. Ill 3. A BE VISION. 251 regarded as a great triumph for the authorities of Semiretcb over those of Tashkent. Another case of the ill-advised action of the authorities, regardless of the effect produced upon the natives, was the forced contribution of camels during the Khivan campaign, in spite of promises of payment. Of this I shall speak more fully in another chapter. There had been so much said at St. Petersburg, not only in Government circles but in the papers, with regard to the dis- orders of the Eussian administration in Central Asia, that when General Kaufmann returned to Tashkent, in 1875, he felt it necessary to take some measures to bring about a better order of things, or, at least, to ascertain where and to what degree the disorders existed. He therefore commissioned officials under his immediate orders to make what is called in Eussia a ' re- vision' of several of the districts in which official corruption and disorder had been said to exist to a great extent. The powers granted to these inspectors were very limited ; they were not to go below the surface of things, and were to abstain as far as possible from questioning the natives about abuses alleged to exist, and were chiefly to confine themselves to the mere inspec- tion of the books and the accounts of the different adminis- trations. In spite of the limitations imposed upon them, the inspectors of the districts of Kurama and Hodjent, and of the city of Tashkent, brought to light a very remarkable state of things. They found that in many cases no accounts whatever had been kept, that expenses from the communal sums had fre- quently been authorised by the prefects and the military gover- nors without votes of the Eegencies, and that money had been paid out in large sums for alleged expenses without receipts, while the papers which did exist gave evidence of the extra- vagance and mismanagement of the officials. In Tashkent, for instance, the zemsky tax for the communal needs increased from 16,000 rubles in 1868 to over 86,000 rubles in 1874, and it was found that, although the accounts were properly arranged under different headings, money had often been paid from one account for expenses incurred in others, and even for purposes that did not properly come under any title. Some of the heaviest items were large yearly sums for the repairs and refurnishing of the residences of the Prefect and his officials. In Hodjent matters 252 TUHKISTAN". were fully as bad. The zemsky tax for comtrmnal needs in- creased from over 16,000 rubles in 1869 to nearly 64,000 rubles in 1874. In addition to this, in 1874, 18,000 rubles were collected as city taxes in Hodjent and Ura-tepe, over 9,000 rubles as a tax on weights, and 6,000 rubles as the bazaar-tax. In 1873 the taxes were even greater. The total taxes, exclusive of the land-tax and the tax on trade, which came to tbe general Grovernment — those only which were intended for the support of the native administration and the economical necessities of the district, had increased from 17,000 rubles in 1869 to 107,000 rubles in 1873, and 96,000 in 1874, while the receipts for 1875 up to August amounted to 78,000 rubles, which would make 134,000 rubles for the completed year. The land and other taxes belonging to the Central Government between 1869 and 1875 increased by 52^ per cent., while the highest estimate of increased population was not more than 1 9 per cent. In speaking of the expenses at Hodjent in IS 73 the official report says: — 'The expenses as compared with 1872 have increased five times, and have increased in an entirely unpro- ductive and arbitrary way, as they have not been called out by the actual needs of the population. Notwithstanding the enormous increase of the estimates, expenses have been allowed which were not included in them, and which were not even ratified by the vote of the Eegency, although not the highest significance should be given to the votes of the native officials.' In confirmation of the justice of this conclusion I may quote the vote for the purchase of a carriage for the use of the Eegency of Hodjent. No member of the Regency ever once used this carriage, although it was a very expensive one. We must be astonished at the relative moderation of the prefect who could have ordered a still more original decree to be made than this one about the carriage. I am compelled to believe that such freedom in the dispensation of the communal funds necessarily leads to evil results, demoralises the officials who have charge of them, exhausts the means of the population, wastes them in an unproductive manner for the natives, and leads not only to present but to future evil, by destroying the confidence of the natives in the Russian administration, which takes charge over them and gives them nothing. * Special attention should be turned to the expenses for the • ADMINISTRATION OF HODJENT. 253 repairs of roads, building's, and bridges, which demanded more than 5,000 rubles. What called out such a great expense, whether it was absolutely necessary at the given time, whether the repairs were properly conducted, whether the prices for the work and material are regular, are questions which are not to be answered by any entries in the books or papers of the Kegency. Nothing in the accounts show us that this and similar great expenses were called out by any necessity. The formation of an army of jigits which existed only on paper ; the construction of a hospital of four beds for a population of 150,000 men, and the yearly expense of 2,000 rubles for the repairs of this one room ; the construction of a house for the district prefect on a large scale, and with luxurious furniture, which cost over 28,000 rubles; the heating of the Government buildings, which cost nearly 4,000 rubles, although in 1872 but 1,000 had been necessary; the appointment of an inspector of public buildings, with a salary of 600 rubles, who in the leisure time allowed from his official duties fulfilled the functions of cook for the district prefect ; the wages of gardeners and of watchmen, the allowance made without guarantee to the district prefect, to the judge, and to other persons ; special grants of money to assistants of the district prefect and district physician — all these were expenses which were not called out by the communal needs, and are not to be justified by economical considerations, and certainly bring no advantage to the local population. We can only wonder that the military governor confirmed the tax estimates which had increased in this re- markable way. Notwithstanding the uncontrolled calculation and formation of the estimates, the expenses are constantly greater than the sums assigned to meet them.' In explanation of one item given above the report in another passage states that a whole band of jigits, or mounted messengers, was formed, the cost of maintenance of whom for one year was estimated in 1872 at over 12,000 rubles, being double the expense for the communal needs in 1870. Nothing in the accounts shows the actual number of jigits or the salary paid to them, but the report states that this is really very small, the remaining money going into the pockets of the officials. From other sources I learn that the wages of the jigits are seldom more than twelve rubles a month, and a 254 TUEKISTAN. prefect seldom has more than five jigits in actual service at the same time. The inspection of the Kurama district brought out even worse results, but I have not yet been informed of the details. A high official, however, remarked that what was now going on in the district of Kurama made the occurrences in that district of which I have already spoken seem mere child's play. The Russian maladministration naturally could have but one result — that of causing discontent among the natives. Before the war with Khokand this dissatisfaction was not be- lieved in by the higher authorities, until circumstances occurred which rendered it very plain that in certain districts the population was disaffected to the Russian rule. Ordinary inter- course among the natives, even without making special in- quiries, was sufficient to bring to light the same state of feeling. The occurrences to which I refer were these: — In 1871 an attack was made on the station of Kara-su, on the high road between Tashkent and Hodjent. One officer was killed, and the station was destroyed. Although this was at first supposed to be merely an act of marauders, it was afterwards found to be the work of a political conspiracy, in which the Tashkent people had been asked to take part. The leader was the Ishan Ish Mohammed Kul, a well-known fanatic, a disciple of a Khokandian Wahabi preacher, Sufi Badal, and his expedition of some twenty men went out quietly from Tashkent by a roundabout way and then fell upon the post-station, with the aim of breaking the communication, exciting the country which lay beyond, and inviting the Khokandians to an invasion. The Government was warned of this movement several days in advance, and might easily have prevented it, but they refused to act, believing there was nothing serious on foot In 1872 there was a great disturbance in Hodjent, to which I have already called attention. This disturbance necessitated the action of the troops, and the mob was put down and its ringleaders were executed. It had been stated at the time that this riot had occurred in consequence of the order for general vaccination, which the natives thought to be a process for branding them, for the purpose of employing them as recruits for the army. The real cause, as has been shown, was discontent with the increased taxation. During the early DISCONTENT. 255 spring- of 1873, in consequence of disturbances in the district of Tchimkent, most of the Kirghiz inhabiting that region left the country, preferring the sands of the Kyzyl-Kum desert to being under Kussian rule. Their movement, however, was made in vain, for, after the Khivan expedition, the whole of Kyzyl-Kum was formally annexed. The circumstances attending the war with Khokand are, I think, quite sufficient to show the feeling of the population. Before the siege of Hodjent the Khokandians had put them- selves in communication with the aksakale and other native officials of the neighbouring districts, and the Bek of Makhram had even spent two days in the city of Hodjent. His presence there, although known to many of the inhabitants, was concealed from the Eussians. As soon as the Khokandians approached, the natives of the districts through which they passed immediately joined them, taking part in the attacks upon the Kussian post- stations and in the murders of officers, alcsakals, and tra- vellers, while the city population remained quiet, waiting to see which side gained the preponderance. Government officers began to open their eyes, and the consequence was that arms were distributed to all the Kussian inhabitants, and no one was allowed to go through the streets unless armed. In some of the bureaux the clerks even sat at work with their muskets at their side. I have every reason to believe, from many circumstances which have come to my knowledge, that the chief reason of the Khokandians maintain- ing such a desperate resistance against the Kussians was from fear of being brought under Kussian rule, and the assistance on which they confidently counted, in case of success, from all their fellow-believers within the Kussian boundaries. In a communication which I received from an influential Kash- garian official, it was stated that Yakub Khan was con- stantly receiving petitions from the inhabitants of Tashkent and other Russian towns urging him to invade the country and relieve them from the Russian yoke. In this connection it is interesting to refer to some articles which were published in the newspaper * Moskva,' in 1867 ' by Professor Grrigorief, in which he sketched the policy which in his opinion should be pursued in Central Asia. This was -oon » Nos. 23, 24, 32, 53, and 54. 256 TUEKISTAN. after the conquest of Tashkent, and it is curious to see how ex- actly some of the prognostications of the writer have been realised. 'If we sit still in Tashkent for a year or two the people in Khokand will begin to think that this proceeds from nothing else but our weakness, and from the impossibility of further conquest, and will again try to measure their strength with ours. Asiatics are wonderfully forgetful, and quickly as they give themselves up to fear, are none the slower in recovering their self-confidence. The Khokandians can also be incited to take up arms against us by the discontent of the local population with our rule in Tashkent. If this arise from any mistakes of the Russian administration , the Khokandians will hardly fail to profit by such a favourable occurrence. We cannot count on the permanency of the good disposition towards us of the inhabitants of the districts of Turkistan and Tashkent, especially because these people are accustomed to internal disorders, to political revolutions, and to the change of rulers, — habits which are not easily lost ; and besides this, they will be excited by the leligious influence and secret intrigues of Bukhara. One of the English statesmen best acquainted with the East says, " I don't know a single case where the close relation of a civilised people with an uncivilised one, have not turned to mutual hatred in the course of three years." ' Professor Grigorief 's idea was that the number of troops should be the smallest number for keeping internal order and protecting the country from invasions, every effort being made to proportion the cost of governing the country to its resources ; and he thought that it would be better to collect the troops at different points, from which they could easily be moved, rather than dispose them in small bodies throughout the country. ' Great care,' he said, ' should also be taken that the relations between the soldiers and the native women do not produce disorder. The murders of Grigboyedof at Teheran and of Burnes at Kabul were due to intrigues with women. Next in importance to the trouble caused by the intrigues of the soldiers and the native women, nothing in Asia so excites the discontent of the natives against these troops, and consequently against the Government which these troops serve, as the dearness of the prime necessities of life, aid especially of provisions, which is the inevitable con- sequence of the acquisition of a larger number of consumers. TEUE PEOGNOSTICATIONS. 257 Should 10,000 Eussian troops come into the country of Tashkent there is no doubt that from the time of their arrival the prices of our provisions would be raised in Tashkent, and in the other places where the troops were stationed they would be much higher than they were before. The cause of this is the poverty and small productiveness of the country. Asia is rich only in the imaginations of those unacquainted with it. To agriculturists and land-owners the raising of the prices for the productions of the soil cannot fail to be pleasing, but afterwards, when the dearness spreads to other articles of consumption, in consequence of which the profits of the country people turn out to be fictitious, this class becomes discontented. As concerns merchants and artisans, the dearness growing up from the new order of things will certainly not dispose them to the new rule. How this cause of discontent can be removed, I do not know. The ad- ministration of the conquered country will cause the greatest difficulty. There should be no attempt to impose foreign ideas. There should be as little bureaucracy as possible, and in general the government should be carried on by the natives as far as may be.' The dearness of provisions of which Mr. Grigorief speaks, was speedily brought about, 1 and the period of discontent is now coming on. The relations between the Russians and the native women, which have been in a measure approved by the authorities as means of extending Eussian influence, are fre- quently productive of difficulties, several instances of which came under my knowledge. A sentence in Professor Grrigorief's account of the expulsion of the English from Afghanistan is singularly applicable here. 2 ' Many husbands and brothers for the love of gain sold their wives and sisters to the foreigners, but they were the first to raise cries against the insults thus given to religion, — cries which were at once taken up by the Mullahs, who carried these complaints into all the by-ways.' 1 See vol. i. p. 285. 2 The whole of this passage on Afghanistan is a very true description of the state of things in Turkistan. ' Kabulistan and Kafiristan ' (Eussian translation of Eitter's ' Erdkunde'), p. 895. VOL. II. 2C8 TURKISTAN. CHAPTER XIV THE RUSSIAN FOREIGN POLICY IN ASIA. Alleged will of Peter the Great — Former Russian policy — It cannot be inferred from the fact of conquest — There is really no policy — Prince Gortchakof's circular — Difficulties arising from the constitution of the Government — Fear of English remonstrances -Views against India — Paul's proposed expedition — The neutral zone and the Afghan frontier — The full powers of General Kaufmann — Consequent awkwardness — General Kaufmann's policy-^-The Diplomatic employe — Embassies — Pre- sents — Relations with Khokand — The commercial treaty — Karategin — - Unquiet state of the country — Rebellion of 1875 — The war with Russia — Violent struggle — Annexation of the Khanate — Bukhara — Disagreeable relations — The Samarkand campaign - Commercial treaty — Subsequent relations— Slave-trade — New treaty of 1873 — Afghanistan — Kashgar — Difficulties attending friendly intercourse — Mission of Baron Kaulbars — Treaty —Subsequent relations — Chinese frontier questions. The fictitious character of the so-called testament of Peter the Grreat l is now so well established that it would be absurd to discuss the principles there laid down for the conquest of Europe and of Asia, or to investigate the reasons dictating such a policy. Professor Grrigorief, who, from his profound and intimate knowledge of the history and literature of the country, and from his practical experience at Orenburg, as Governor of the 1 The forgery of the will of Peter the Great was due to the desire of Napoleon to frighten Europe, and thus to give him excuses and pretexts for entering upon his Moscow campaign. It first appeared in the book called ' Des progres de la puissance russe depuis son origine jusqu'au commencement du XIX" siecle,' pub- lished at Paris in 1812, by Lesur, pn attache of the Department of Foreign Affairs, without doubt on the express command of Napoleon I. Many copies of this book were taken by the Duke de Bassano with the army. Lesur does not say that he had ever seen this will, and gives no proofs of its existence, but merely says in his introduction : ' On assure qu'il existe dans les archives par- ticulieres des Empereurs de Russie des Memoires secrets ecrits de la main de Pierre le Grand, ou sont exposes sans detours les projets que ce prince av.iit con 511s, qu'il recommaude a 1' attention de ses successeurs et que plusieurs d'entre euv WILL OF PETEB THE GREAT. 259 Lesser Horde of Kirghiz, is certainly the greatest Eussian authority on Central Asia, has plainly shown the vacillation, the ignorance, and the want of good sense which marked the policy of Kussia towards Asia from the reign of Peter the Great to that of Alexander II. in an article which I have trans- lated in Appendix IV. at the end of this volume. The circum- ont, en effet, suivis avec une persistance pour ainsi dire religieuse.' When in 1836 the Polish question had been for the moment finished, and the Eastern question seemed menacing, and it became again necessary to show Russia's desire of world-conquest, the will reappears, but this time re-written in more diplomatic and preciso language, in the form of an actual testament in 'Les Memoires du Chevalier d'Eon,' by Gaillardet, one of the celebrated collaborators with A. Dumas of the melodrama 'La Tour dp Nesle.' It is here introduced as follows: ' En meme temps que l'acte d'adhesion d'Elisabeth au traits de Versailles, le Chevalier d'Eon avait apport6 un document precieux dont il dut la decouverte a son intimity sans bornes et a, ses investigations sans controle dans les archives les plus secrets des tzars. Ce document, dont tout le monde a pari 6 depuis 1812, dont 1'existence etait connue, mais que nul ne possedait et n'a pu repro- duce, fut remis confidentiellement par le Chevalier d'Eon, avec un travail special sur la Russie, entre les mains de l'abbe de Bernis, ministre des affaires £trangeres, et entre celles du roi Louis XV lui-meme, en 1757. C'est une copie litterale et fidele du testament laisse par Pierre le Grand a, ses descendants et a ses successeurs au trone moscovite.' Neither the famous — or infamous — Chevalier d'Eon, nor M. Gaillardet, can be considered as authorities on an historical ques- tion. In 1839 a Polish writer, Leonard Chodzko, in his ' La Pologne illustree,' brought up again the will, with still greater details. He 'says : ' Ce fut en 1709 apres la bataille de Pultawa, que Pierre I traca le plan de son testament qu'il retoucha en 1724. Par un hasard dont les incidents romanesques seraient supeiflus ici, l'ambassadeur de France pres la cour de la czarine Elisabeth, en 1757, trouva moyen de prendre copLe de cette piece etrange, et aussitot il lYnvoya a Versailles, avec toutes les reflexions que merite un pareil document.' Finally, during the Crimean war, in 1854, M. J. Correard published a map of the successive enlargements of Russia since the time of Peter the Great, and added in the margin a copy of the supposed will, with a still more exact account : ' Ce testament politique fut esquisse par Pierre I" en 1710 apres la batai le de Pultawa, retouche par lui en 1722, apres la paix de Nystadt, et formule definitive- ment par le chancelier Ostermann. II fut connu de Louis XV et de ses ministres des l'annee 1757.' In this state has the legend come to us. See 'Les Auteiirs du Testament de Pierre le Grand, page d'Histoire.' Paris: E. Dentu, Libraire-Editeur, Palais-Royal, 17-19 Galerie d'Orleans, 1872. It is almost unnecessary to remark that the language and the expressions as well as the ideas in this alleged will, are such as never could have been used by Peter the Great or in his time. The statu archives of Russia are liberally open to all historical students, but no one has ever yet been able to find there this famous will, nor, in spite of the allegations of M. Gaillardet and M. Chodzko, has anyone succeeded in discovering the copy of the document in the French archives. There are strong reasons for believing that the only will left by Peter the Great — that naming his wife as his successor — was forged by Catherine and Menshikof immediately after his death. s 2 i , 260 TUKKLSTAN. stances of his present official position will explain the reason why he did not touch upon the policy which has been pursued during the present reign ; but what his opinions are on that subject are to be found in the letters in the 'Moskva.' The policy of Kussia cannot be concluded merely from the conquests and extensions of territory, without taking into account the causes of these movements. Yet this is what is usually done ; and the fact that since the Crimean war Kussia has annexed considerable portions of the three khanates of Bukhara, Khokand, and Khiva is put forward as a proof of a scheming policy and of a plot to dominate the whole of Asia. With much greater force might it be said that the extension of British rule in Asia is the result of a long-matured and traditional policy of Asiatic conquest ; yet no one who knows how the spread of British rule in India and in the adjacent countries has been brought about would think of accusing the English Govern- ment of such a design. Why, then, should such accusations be brought against Kussia? Simply because there is a widely spread belief in Western Europe — and irrational ideas of this kind are often hardest to eradicate — that as Kussia is governed (so it is thought) by a single will, and as the political steps of Kussia are taken without the publicity which attends such measures in constitutional countries, Kussian statesmen are almost preternaturally wise and skilful, and that there exists a traditional and hereditary policy. Such a policy would be difficult enough anywhere, and it does not and has not existed in Kussia ; in fact not only in Asiatic but in other Eastern as well as in European affairs Kussia is guided by no policy whatever, except so far as yearly and almost daily changing circumstances may dictate. Were it to be generally admitted, — I will not say as true, but even as possible, — that Russia had no foreign policy except that of carrying out such views as might for the moment seem advantageous, the present situ- ation of affairs both in Europe and Asia might be more easily understood and difficulties might be better avoided. It seems, therefore, exceedingly unfair towards Kussia to bring up the Circular issued by Prince Gortchakof after the capture of Tchimkent as a proof of the bad feeling of the Russian Government in its dealings with Central Asia. Under ordinary circumstances such a step as that taken by Russia in 1864 for PRINCE GORTCHAKOF'S CIRCULAR. 261 rounding off her frontier and filling up the gaps between the lines of the Syr Darya and of Siberia would have excited no re- mark and would have needed no explanation. But England had always been jealous of the independence of the Central Asiatic Khanates ; and the English press,- — with a feeling which would seem to imply that it believed the English hold on India to be weaker than it really is, — immediately raised a cry of alarm, as if this were an advance made towards wresting that great empire from English hands. Prince Grortchakof, therefore, thought it best to explain the object of the movement in a circular which he issued to the different Eussian embassies and legations. In that circular the Prince set forth what were undoubtedly the true reasons for the Eussian advance. He also stated that there was no intention of advancing further, for this campaign had been undertaken purely to prevent the necessity of sub- sequent campaigns. ' We find ourselves,' he said, ' in face of a more solid, more compact, less unsettled, and better organised society ; and this marks with geographical precision the limits to which interest and reason prescribe us to advance, and at which we must halt, because, on the one hand, any further extension of our rule meeting henceforth, not with unstable communities, like independent nomad tribes, but with more regularly constituted states, would exact considerable efforts and would draw us on from annexation to annexation into infinite complications ; while, on the other hand, having henceforth for neighbours such states, notwithstanding their backward con- dition and the instability of their political action, we can nevertheless be assured that to the common advantage regular relations will one day be substituted for the disorders which have hitherto paralysed the progress of these countries.' There would seem to be no ground for charging Eussia with duplicity in this Circular, for there is nothing in it which was not at the time generally believed. Its great fault was in believing that the home authorities, with the peculiar system of government which prevails in Eussia, would be able to control the movements of the generals in command, and in thinking that the Khanates of Central Asia were well-organised states, that political relations might be had with them, and that they would be amenable to reason or would respect the obliga- tions of treaties. Prince Grortchakof could not then know // 26;? TURKISTAX. that General Tchernaief, in violation of orders, would the next summer attack and capture Tashkent. He was misinformed also as to the value of the country annexed. One thing, how- ever, he saw clearly, — although the efforts necessary were much less considerable than he had supposed, — that a further exten- sion of rule over the Khanates would lead from annexation to annexation and to infinite complications. How some of these annexations were brought about and why some of these attacks took place I shall endeavour to explain. I referred above to the peculiar constitution of the Russian Government. This has a more important bearing on the Asiatic policy of the Empire than has been generally supposed. Each minister being independent and responsible only to the Emperor, there is no Cabinet, properly so called, and can be no united policy. The councils of ministers do not so much discuss questions of policy as questions of detail^the solution of which depends upon two or three ministers jointly. Some- times a subject is deemed so important that a special com- mission is appointed to study it and to come to a conclusion, which may or may not be ratified by the Emperor. Still, even in this case, as each minister has the right of a personal audience with the Emperor, when he can explain in detail all his arguments for the proposed measure, the decision of the commission may be set aside almost as soon as it is made. A striking instance of this occurred in the formation of the Trans-Caspian military district The plan for the establish- ment of this district was opposed both by Prince Gortchakof and by the Minister of Finance, the one on political and the other on financial grounds, and it was rejected by a lar e majority in the commission specially appointed to consider it. Yet the united influence of the Grand-Duke Michael and of the Minister of War was so strong as to obtain the Imperial sanc- tion to the scheme but a few days after. It will be seen from this one example that it is possible for a measure to be put into operation although it may be contrary to the ideas and desires of the Foreign Office. But this is not an isolated case ; such things are of constant occurrence. The difficulty in such cases is that in the end no one is respon- sible, not even the n ernment, for it is guided by no settled policy. As matters now stand there are five distinct ruleis TOO MANY HEADS. 2G3 over large provinces in Asia, all of whom have differing interests, and some of whom are in constant rivalry, if not in actual bad relations with each other. All are nominally de- pendent in military matters upon the Minister of War ; all are practically independent of the Foreign Office ; all have the right of reporting personally and viva, voce to the Emperor, and really acknowledge no other authority. These are the Grand Duke Michael, the brother of the Emperor, and the Lieutenant of the Caucasus, and the Governors-General of Orenburg, of Turkistan, of Eastern and of Western Siberia. The Governors-General of Turkistan, of Eastern and of Western Siberia, on account of the affairs of Kuldja, have to do with Chinese officials, and in spite of telegraphs and post-roads each of them pursues a policy which at times differs from that of each of the others, as well as from that of the Russian Minister at Pekin, who acts under the direct instructions of the Foreign Office. The Governors-General of Western Siberia, of Turkistan, and of Orenburg have different methods for the government of the Kirghiz, who are nearly equally divided between the three provinces. General Kryzhanofsky and General Kaufmann, as is well known, look at the affairs of the Steppe and of the Central Asiatic Khanates from entirely different and almost irrecon- cilable points of view. The Grand Duke Michael, to whom the Trans-Caspian district has lately been subjected, has still different ideas, and in his anxiety to find some occupation for the large army placed under his orders frequently makes propositions to the Ministry of War, which, on account of foreign complications that would arise, are as often re- jected by the Emperor on the advice of Prince Gortchakof; and yet almost without exception they are merely adjourned and not utterly forbidden, for we see that the Grand Duke is sometimes allowed to carry out his plans on a smaller scale than he at first intended, as well as to take steps for larger projects, and we know the great influence which both the Grand Duke and the Minister of War have with the Emperor. The fears of English remonstrances and of diplomatic complications have had great influence on the Russian policy in Asia. The Foreign Office has been exceedingly annoyed by the persistent manner in which, on each movement of troops, questions have been asked in Parliament, or the 264 TUKKISTAN British Ambassador has hinted or stated to Prince Gortchakof his desire to know the reasons for such a step ; and not un- frequently movements quite insignificant in themselves have been forbidden for fear of English remonstrances. This has not been unnoticed in the Eussian press. A recent book on Central Asia l says : ' This has caused us to explain to England every one of our movements, to quiet her with regard to our intentions and to define our policy. This cannot but have its effect on our actions, which receive a tinge of indecision and display a possible fear of awakening vain apprehensions on the part of our rival. The wish to quiet the English disbelief in us and to give no cause for English protests has made us look through our fingers at many greater or less breaches of inter- national law on the part of Khiva, Bukhara, and Kashgar. England would never have permitted half of these wrongs and insults. Our moderation, however, has been vain. In the eyes of Englishmen we have won nothing, and if England for a time appears to believe in us and to be friendly, the feeling is not sincere.' It is impossible to believe that there is any settled inten- tion on the part of the Eussian Government of making an attack on India, or even of preparing the way for it, nor is there any desire for the possession of India. Young men in the army of Turkistan, whose only thought is for advancement and decorations, may, indeed, talk loudly ; but the men who control the policy have no such thought. What might happen in case of a war between Eussia and England on other ques- tions is, indeed, hard to say. If Eussia could then — easily for 1 ' Russia and England in Central Asia,' by M. A. Terentief, p. 252. St. Petersburg, 1875- "While not sharing all the opinions or approving the tone of Mr. Terentief, who is very chauviniste and needlessly hostile to England, I fre- quently refer to his book in this chapter, because when serving in Central Asia he had access to the papers contained in the chancery of General Kaufmann, and may, therefore, when he quotes documents, be considered as an authority. Many of the facts which he mentions in the book referred to, I already knew from other sources. During the later years of Mr. Terentief 's stay in Tashkent, he was a violent opponent of General Kaufmann, and was seeking information of every description to convict him of maladministration and incompetence. After the administration of Turkistan had been attacked in the Russian press senrch wag made for a writer with a ready pen, and the officials of General Kaufmann's staff succeeded in presenting to Mr. Terentief ' convincing arguments ' for defending rather than attacking the General's administration. This may in some measure account for the two different lines of thought which run through his book. DESIGNS ON INDIA. 265 herself — make a diversion on India she would certainly be justified in doing so, but the position of Eussian affairs in Turkistan is hardly such as to allow her to do so for many years to come, to say nothing of the distance of Turkistan from European Eussia, the bad communications, and the inter- vening deserts and mountains between Turkistan and India, which would render such a movement exceedingly difficult, if not impossible. The only danger to India from Eussia lies through Persia. Experience has proved that all invasions of India have come through Afghanistan, and Afghanistan can only be approached by Eussia through Persia. The Emperor Paul, from his hatred of the English and his sympathy with Napoleon, did, indeed, propose an expedition to India, but his plan was so wild that even Napoleon laughed at it. His idea was that Eussia should concentrate in Astrakhan 25,000 regular troops and 2,000 Cossacks. France was also to send a body of 35,000 men up the Danube to the Black Sea, when they were to be conveyed in ships to Taganrog, and were then to march to the Volga and sail to Astrakhan. From there both armies were to go to Astrabad, and it was expected that the troops could march from Astrakhan to the Indus in forty-five days. Napoleon having refused to consent to this expedition, Paul resolved on undertaking it with his own means ; and in order not to make the conquest too much of a burden upon the Government, he intended to effect it by means of the Don Cossacks alone, to whom he presented India in a letter of January 12 (^24) to General Orlof, the Ataman of the Don Cossacks, in which he said : ' All the wealth of India will be your reward for this expedition.' The Cossacks were to march from Orenburg to Khiva and Bukhara, and thence to the Indus. Several other letters with new orders succeeded, and Orlof promised to undertake the expedition and carry it out successfully. The Cossacks prepared for their march, which was fixed for the beginning of May, when on the night of March 23 the Emperor Paul suddenly died, and the change of Government put a stop to the whole plan. In the early part of the Crimean war another project for the invasion of India was presented to the Emperor Nicholas by General Duhamel, but Eussia's attention was too much taken up with what was passing on the Danube and in the 266 TURKISTAN. Crimea to pay much attention to it. The success of such an expedition would, of course, depend upon which country had the preponderance in Persia, for it is only with the consent if not the active co-operation of Persia that such a plan would stand the slightest chance of fulfilment. Apprehensions for the safety of her Indian possessions led England to engage in the only negotiations on the subject of Central Asia which have yet taken place. They were begun in the early part of 1869 by Lord Clarendon, who in a conference with Baron Brunnow, the Kussian Ambassador, said that while Her Majesty's Grovernment had not the slightest cause for alarm in the rapid progress of Eussia in Central Asia, yet something must be done to allay the excitement and the suspicions of the British public and the British press. He therefore proposed what became known as the ' neutral zone,' - that there should be a strip of territory between Russia and the Indian possessions the neutrality of which should be guaranteed by both parties. Prince Gortchakof received this suggestion in very good part, and proposed that Afghanistan be selected as that zone. This, however, did not suit the views of the Indian Grovernment, which was by no means desirous of having Afghanistan remain neutral, — so far at least as England was concerned. Subsequently Lord Clarendon had an interview at Heidelburg with Prince Grort- chakof on this subject, and still later in the autumn of the same year Mr. Forsyth, as the representative of the Indian Government, visited St. Petersburg, and held several conferences with Prince Grortchakof, and other Eussian ministers. It was found that a neutral zone in its strict sense was impossible. The idea of the Indian G-overnment then was to establish on the frontier of each country a girdle of semi-independent states, those nearest India — Afghanistan, Khelat, and Yarkand ( Kash- gar) - to be subject to British influence, and those on the other side of the Oxus, including Bukhara and Khokand, to be subject to that of Russia. As the plan of independent or semi- independent states was found an impossible one, it was barely proposed to Eussia, and after several conferences it was sub- stantially agreed, that ' Afghanistan should be completely outside the sphere within which Eussia should be called upon to exercise her influence,' while it was understood that all the countries to the north of that should be considered to be under THE AFGHAN FRONTIER 267 Russian influence, and that no interference should be made there by England. The only question to decide was as to the actual boundaries of Afghanistan, it being agreed that all the countries in the effective possession of Shir Ali Khan, and which had formerly recognised the sovereignty of Dost Mohammed, should be considered as Afghanistan, and it was arranged that the memoranda and papers on this subject should be submitted to General Kaufmann, as the person nearest the spot capable of judging the question, in order that he might report to the Russian Government what the actual boundaries of the country were. The matter drifted on, for no reports were received from General Kaufmann, who seemed to find it exceedingly difficult to ascertain the real boundaries of Afghanistan, in spite of the pressing reminder of Sir Andrew Buchannan in the autumn uf 1871. Finally, on October 17, 1872, Lord Granville wrote a dispatch to Lord Augustus Loftus, for communication to the Russian Government, in which it was stated that the English Government not having received any information from Russia, had been obliged to make up their minds from the best infor- mation they could receive, and had concluded to consider as fully belonging to the Amir of Kabul : — 1. Badakshan, with its dependent district of Vakhan, from the Sarikul (Woods' Lake) on the east, to the junetion of the Koktcha River, with the Oxus (or Penja), forming the northern boundary of this Afghan province throughout its entire extent. 2. Afghan Turkistan, comprising the districts of Kunduz, Khulm, and Balkh, the northern boundary of which would be the line of the Oxus from the junction of the Koktcha River to the post of Khoja Saleh inclusive, on the high road from Bukhara to Balkh. Nothing to be claimed by the Afghan Amir on the left bank of the Oxus below Khoja Saleh. 3. The internal districts of Aksha, Seripul, Maimena, Shibberjan, and Andkhoi, the latter of which would be the extreme Afghan frontier possession to the north west, the desert beyond belonging to independent tribes of Turkomans. 4, The Western Afghan frontier, between the dependencies of Herat and those of the Persian province of Khorassan, is well known, and need not here be defined.' l 1 Sir Henry Rawlinson (in his ' England and Russia in the East,' London, 1875, p. 310), seems to claim on one point a still greater extent of territory. He states that in paragraph 1 the words ' on the west ; the stream of the Oxus ' were 268 TURKISTAN. This despatch brought out a reply from Prince Gortchakof, conveying the report of General Kaufmann, and a memorandum by Mr. Struve, who claimed that Badakshan and Vakhan were not subject to the rule of Shir Ali Khan. Prince Gortchakof therefore, objected to having them included within the limits of Afghanistan under his objection. He, however, subsequently withdrew his objection, as he said, to please the English cabinet. He added, ' We are more inclined to this act of courtesy, as the English Government engages to use all its influence with Shir Ali, in order to induce him to maintain a peaceful attitude, as well as to insist on his giving up all measures of aggression or further conquest. This influence is indispensable. It is based not only on the material and moral ascendancy of England, but also on the subsidies for -which Shir Ali is indebted to her. Such being the case, we see in this assurance a real guarantee for the maintenance of peace.' When this correspondence came to be published, some alarm was felt as to the obligation of England, implied in the last paragraph of Prince Gortchakof 's note, to maintain Shir Ali's peaceful at- titude and to restrain him from all measures of aggression or further conquest. It was said that this committed England to an armed intervention for the preservation of peace. Mr. Glad- stone, in a speech in Parliament (April 23, 1873), repudiated this responsibility, saying that the influence of England was only to be exercised by means of friendly advice. The Russians looked upon this as a formal repudiation of the whole trans- action on the part of the English Government, for it was evident that Russia would not guarantee the inviolability of Afghanistan territory, if the English did not agree that they would compel the Amir to respect the territory on the other side of the Oxus, ■ — territory which is now Bukharan, but what will probably some day be Russian. The * Official Gazette,' remarking on Mr. accidentally omitted after the words 'the Oxus of Penja,' and he maintains there- fore on the basis of subsequent explorations that the main stream of the Oxus is not to be taken, as that rising in Woods' Lake, but a branch to the north rising in the little Pamir Lake, which, under the name of Murghabi, flows down the Shugnan valley. He has accordingly thus marked the boundary on his map. The official documents, however, published both by the English and the Russian Governments expressly mention the branch rising in Wood's Lake. It certainly was not the intention of the Russians to include in Afghanistan the principality of Shugnan which is now well known to belong to Bukhara. ENGLAND AND RUSSIA. 269 Gladstone's explanation, said : ' If England has preserved her freedom of action Eussia has also preserved hers, and con- sequently the two Governments have not in reality pledged themselves to any inconvenient obligations which might have the effect of placing them in false relations.' In reality, therefore, the matter remains exactly where it was before the negotiations of 1869 and 1872 were begun, except that an agreement has been brought about as to what are the boundaries of Afghanistan. Unless some new arrangement should be made, Russia has a perfect right, in case of troubles on the Oxus, to cross it and inflict punishment upon the troops and provinces of Shir Ali. The attitude of England toward Russia with regard to Central Asia, can hardly be called a dignified one. There are constant questions, protests, demands for explanations, and even threats — at least in the newspapers and in Parliament — but nothing ever is done. Outcries were made about the expedition to Khiva, but when the occupation had once become a fait accompli, the same men and the same journals said that no harm was done. Again there were outcries and questions about the possibility of a Russian movement on Kashgar. Now, after Khokand is occupied, the conquest of Kashgar is looked upon as not so alarming after all. At present there is a similar uneasi- ness about Merv, and the Russophobist party are using all their efforts to show, either that the Russians must not be allowed to take Merv, or if they do take it, that Herat must be occupied. In all probability Merv will be occupied by the Russians, and in all probability the English Government will do nothing at all. It would seem wiser and more dignified, instead of subject- ing the Russian Foreign Office to constant petty annoyances, to allow the Russians plainly to understand what limits they could not pass in their onward movement. A state of mutual sus- picion bodes no good to the relations of any Governments. One of the great causes of the Russian advance in Central Asia, and one of the greatest difficulties with which the Foreign Office has had to deal, has been the full powers granted to General Kaufmann to carry on diplomatic relations with the neighbouring states. Whatever reason might have existed for this at first, now that the post-roads are in better order, and that the telegraph is completed to Tashkent and Hodjent, the policy of Turkistan should certainly be entirely 270 TUEKISTAN. governed by tnat of the Government at St. Petersburg. These powers, however, General Kaufmann has regarded as the apple of his eye. There are the best reasons to believe that full details of the actual state of the relations between the Khanates and Tashkent have not always been communicated to the Home Government, and that at times formal permission has been asked and explanations have been given only after military expeditions have actually started. The policy which has prevailed at Tashkent, so far as it can be distinct from the policy at St. Petersburg, has been a purely personal one. The great desire of the Governor-General has been to play the part of pacificator of Central Asia. With this view treaties were made with various states — which were far from being kept — by which, in the opinion of many- not only at St. Petersburg but even in Tashkent, to say nothing of those abroad who followed the movements, — the surrounding Khanates were reduced to vassalage. How far this is true may be seen from the late war with Khokand. It being supposed that both Khokand and Bukhara were perfectly subdued, and were ready to carry out all the wishes of the Government, the campaign against Khiva was undertaken without great necessity, but to round off the whole with a successful military expedition, which would put down the last elements of disorder in Central Asia. One consequence of this full power has been to keep up diplomatic relations where properly no diplomatic relations should have existed. When the Khanates had been once awed by force of arms, the Russians might well have taken a leaf from the English policy in India, and have appointed residents near each of the Khans, whose position would indeed have been a semi-diplomatic one, but whose duties would have consisted, with the help of a guard of native Cossacks, in enforcing the orders of the Governor-General. No attempt, however, has been made at anything like this. The Russians have never maintained in any of the Khanates an official or secret agent who could give them information. They have trusted to the reports of prefects and commanders on the borders, and to the effect of occasional missions. The nominal conduct of diplomatic affairs was, up to the end of 1873, in the hands of Mr. Struve, the son of the well-known astronomer, and now the Russian minister in Japan. Since that time they PRESENTS. 271 have been conducted by Mr. Weinberg, a dependent of the Foreign Office. Diplomatic relations have been kept up by occasionally sending special missions — frequently without any special object except the interchange of compliments — to Kho- kand, Bukhara, and even Kashgar. These missions are fre- quently, but not always accompanied by the diplomatic employe. In addition to this, the Khokandian Government up to its fall maintained in Tashkent a resident envoy, one Mirza Hakim, a man of little repute in his own country, but a favourite of the Khan. The Eussians complain that their Government shows no firmness in its diplomatic relations, and does not assert the influence to which it has a right from its actual power, and accuse the diplomatic employe and other envoys of yielding too much to what is called Asiatic usage. One of these usages is that of giving and receiving presents. When Eussia first opened relations with the Khanates, and when it was itself in outward character an Asiatic power, it is but natural that the system of presents should have been maintained. It was, how- ever, found exceedingly burdensome. The Khans approved of it in order to obtain rich presents from the Tsars, as well as to reward their favourites at Eussian expense by sending them on missions. In consequence of this, it became necessary to issue an order that Asiatic envoys could not be received more than once in three years, and then only under special circumstances, and that the direct relations between the countries should be carried on by the governors of the nearest provinces. When the Eussians, by the occupation of Tashkent, came into close relations with Bukhara and Khokand, it would have been far wiser if they had asserted their own customs, and refused either to give or receive presents. Having at that time inspired the neighbouring Khanates with awe, it would have been easy to have maintained their ground. For presents and expenses of ambassadors, a very large sum is required. ' The Governor-General for Turkistan receives for these purposes 35,000 rubles yearly ; but this sum is quite insufficient to cover the actual outlay for the reception of ambassadors and the pur- chase of articles for presents. In consequence of this, the Governor-General is obliged to give to one presents received from another, or else to sell those presents, in order with the 272 TURKESTAN. money thus obtained to purchase others to be given in return. The second method is, perhaps, to be preferred to the first, so as to prevent the absurd incidents which it is said sometimes formerly happened. The Bukharan Amir, for ex- ample, in the horses sent him from Khokand, recognised the same animals which he had previously given to the Bek of Tashkent. These horses, with their gorgeous trappings, had succeeded in making several visits, and had returned to their own stable. But even now it sometimes happens that the robes sent from all quarters to Tashkent get mixed, and instead of Khokandian robes, Bukharan robes are sent to Bukhara, so that people believe there that the present has not been accepted, but has been returned. Every right thinking man must admit that this system of presents is a very bad one. A certain sum is assigned to the higher officials for presents, which is all spent, in addition to certain varying amounts realised by the sale of presents received in exchange. The remainder of these presents, however, does not constitute the property of the Treasury, but of the officials ; so that a lover of such things without spending a penny can form an excellent collection at the cost of the Grovernment. Every agent who is sent to the Khanates is in the same way allowed by the Gfovernor-Gfeneral money for presents. The agent repeats the procedure, and if he be an adept he never returns with empty hands. Of course the mis- sions to the Khanates generally fall to the diplomatic employe. This is his monopoly. In his case the presents bear no propor- tion to those given to other people ; . . . . for instance, the Khan of Khokand created Mr. Struve a taksaba — field- marshal of the Khokandian army .... and gave him a velvet uniform with gold braids, ornamented with pearls and precious stones. They even say the taksaba receives money in the shape of the rents of vaqf lands. 1 . . . .' With this system the dignity and importance of the Eussian Grovernment are lessened. Another usage to which the Eussians have unthinkingly conformed, is to appear before the native Khans and Amirs dressed in native robes, a conformity to custom which the natives have never appreciated at its real value, but have regarded as a proof of the Eussians' weakness, and of their desire to keep up good relations even by acts which lower the national dignity. 1 ' Russia and England in Central Asia,' by M. A. Terentief. pp. 331, 332. RUSSIAN ENVOYS OF OLDEN TIME. 273 In one case even a member of a mission to Bukhara was so desirous of doing - everything that politeness required, that to all appearances at least he kissed the hand of the Amir at the farewell interview, a circumstance which did not increase the respect of the Bukharans for the mission. 1 In former times Russian envoys did not allow themselves to perform acts so derogatory to the dignity of the Russian names, as witness the instances given in the paper of Professor Gri- gorief, Appendix IV., at the end of this volume, and especially the demeanour of Khokhlof, the Russian envoy to Bukhara in 1620, of the Brothers Pasukhin in 1669, and of Nikiforof, envoy at Khiva, in 1841. 2 1 ' Russia and England in Central Asia,' by M. A. Terentief, p. 337. 2 In 1620 Ivan-Khokhlof was sent on a mission to the Bukhar.m Khan, Imam Kuli. In his instructions it was said that if any duiies or payment should be demanded in order to admit him to the Khan, he should not pay them, but should return ; and that if the Khan invited him to his table he was not to accept the invitation except on condition that no other foreign envoy should be there, or if any should be there, that they should sit below him. Khokhlof penetrated to Samarkand, and was there received by the Khan. On going into the palace one of the officials desired to take the Tsar's letter from Khokhlof's hand, who refused to give it up. On presenting to the Khan the compliments of the Russian Tsar, and seeing that he did not stand up at the mention of the Tsar's name, "he remarked to him that in similar cases out of respect to the name of the Tsar all kings were accustomed to rise. The Khan immediately complied, excusing himself on the ground that it was so long since he had received a Russian envoy and had heard the words of the Tsar, that he had forgotten, and assuring him at the same time that the omission was unintentional, and that there was no unfriendliness or real want of respect. In 1669 the brothers Pasukhin were sent to Bukhara by the Tsar Alexis. The day before their reception by the Khan the envoys demanded that in the first place there should be no other envoy received at the same time, and secondly, that horses should be sent for them. On being answered that this was not customary in Bukhara, Pasukhin replied that horses from the Tsar's stable were given to the Pukharan envoys in Moscow, and that therefore they must be similarly treated. Not only was this request complied with, but every other made during the mission — which was very successful. Captain Nikiforof was sent on a mission to Khiva in 1841, immediately after the unlucky expedition of Perovsky. Although he was accompanied by only a small escort of twelve Cossacks, instead of cringing an I yielding to all the demands of Khivan etiquette, he did exactly the opposite, and by his bold demeanour and his rude and almost brutal treatment of the Khan's officials, he succeeded in inspiring great respect. Seeing the great delays in the negotiations, he roughly stated to the Khivans what the Russian Government would henceforth consider as the boundary, and threatened every Kbivan with death who should be found on the other side of it. This was shortly after the murder of two pliant English envoys in Bukhara. VOL. II. T 274 TURKISTAN. In forming a judgment on the methods and the results of the Russian policy in Asia, it may be of use to consider the relations of Russia with each country separately. FIKST — KHOKAND. By the campaign of Tchernaief in 1864-5, and the subse- quent capture of Hodjent in 1866, the Khan of Khokand was restricted to a very small portion of his former territory, — which had at one time extended west to the mouth of the Syr Darya, and north almost to Vierny, — and was left to govern a small fertile territory completely surrounded by mountains, except on the western side near Hodjent. At that time the Russians pro- posed to occupy also the province of Namangan, thus limiting the Khokandian rule to the south of the rivers Syr Darya and Naryn, and General Romanofsky himself was desirous of rectify- ing his then irregular frontier by occupying the city of Kho- kand and by the conquest of the whole country. But thf shrewd advice of Ata Bek caused the Khan to send envoys to con- gratulate the Russians on the capture of Hodjent from the Bukharans ; and as there had been no actual cause for war except the, feeling supposed to prevail in Khokand, General Romanofsky was reluctantly compelled to abandon the project. He was soon afterwards removed, and as the policy indicated by the Government at St. Petersburg was always against fresh conquests, and as nothing occurred on the side of Khokand of such great importance as to render a war absolutely necessary, the country remained unattached until the rebellion of 1875 made Russian interference imperative. On his arrival at Tashkent late in the autumn of 1 867, General Kaufmann informed Khudayar Khan of his accession to power, and requested him to send an envoy to conclude a treaty of commerce. Subsequently, on account of the movements of troops in Khokand and fears of a change in Russian policy, he was obliged to write the Khan an assuring letter. To this the Khan replied with an autograph letter and an envoy, who assured General Kaufmann that the movements of troops were only the usual autumn manoeuvres caused by the distribution of winter clothing. General Kaufmann informed the envoy in plain terms of the demands which he had to make with regard to the rights of Russian traders, and the diminution of the duties, and COMMERCIAL TREATY WITH KHOKAND. 275 sent by him a copy of the treaty which he proposed. A small Eussian mission went to Khokand at the same time for the purpose of investigating to some extent the resources of the country. To the conditions of the treaty the Khan would not at first consent, maintaining that he could not allow Eussian merchants to travel freely over the country, as he could not guarantee them against attacks from the more fanatical of his subjects. In addition to this he desired to send an embassy to St. Petersburg, and, if this could not be allowed, at all events to obtain a letter directly from the Emperor, assuring him of peace and friendship, which would be a guarantee of good rela- tions independently of the change of the Eussian governors, for, with all the respect he had for them, he could not but notice that in the course of three years there had been four Eussian commanders, each of whom had proposed his own conditions for peace. General Kaufmann replied to the Khan formally and deci- sively in a letter of January 29 (February 10), 1868. 'The great Eussian Tsar never allows any dissension between the Khans and the people in the countries neighbouring to us. Your Highness writes that you cannot answer for the crimes of some of your subjects with regard to Eussian traders. To this I reply, either they must obey your commands or they do not acknowledge your authority ov. r them. A nation must have a head. Those of your people who, in spite of your commands, do harm to Eussian merchants, must then obey my orders. I cannot allow unruly and independent people in the neighbour- hood. The general quiet demands that they shall submit either to you or to me.' To Mirza Hakim, one of the envoys, General Kaufmann spoke in strong terms of the indecision of the Khan, and said that if he had wished to occupy the Khanate he would not have wasted time and words, but would before that have moved his troops and ended the whole matter. At last the Khan withdrew from his pretensions of carrying on direct relations with St. Petersburg, and agreed not only to accept the Treaty of General Kaufmann as the representative of the Emperor, but to sign it as well. The main privileges secured by the treaty were five : 1. The right of Eussian merchants to visit all the towns in the Khanate ; 2. That of establishing caravanserais and depots for goods where they wished ; 3. That of having caravaii-bashis t2 276 TURKISTAN. or commercial agents in all the towns of the Khanate ; 4. The reduction of the customs duties to 1\ per cent., and the rendering them equal both for Christians and Mussulmans, and, 5. The free passage through Khokand of Eussian caravans desiring to go into the neighbouring countries. The treaty was finally signed, arid was approved by the Emperor in November 1868. This treaty was never carefully observed. Additional duties on cotton and silk were imposed, as I have mentioned on p. 1 7, vol. ii., and difficulties were placed in the way of freely travel- ling in the country. The Eussian merchants resident in Khokand were kept under the severest restrictions, and one was even attacked and nearly killed, an offence which was con- doned by a small compensation paid by the Khan. In the Eussian campaign against Samarkand, the attitude of the Khan was anything but favourable to the Eussians, and his troops were kept ready while he was on the watch for an occa sion to attack the Eussians in the rear. The speedy capture of Samarkand, and the reports from the Eussian camp of his envoy Mirza Hakim, who was greatly under Eussian influence, kept him for the moment quiet. The Eussians seemed so satisfied with the results that finally, as a mark of satisfaction, General Kaufman n allowed Mirza Hakim to go to St. Petersburg, where he was received by the Emperor. After his return Khudayar Khan was invested with the order of the first class of St. Stanislas, and a slight difference was made in the title by which the Eussians addressed him. A year later, in December 1869, Khudayar made a complaint to the Governor-General against the Amir of Bukhara, saying that in subduing the Beks of Hissar and Kulab, he had fallen upon a vassal of Khokand — Shir Ali, the Bek of Karategin — who had consequently been obliged to take refuge in Khokand. Negotiations were therefore entered into on this subject with the Amir, and he sent to Tashkent as his excuse a letter of Shir Ali, which showed his participation in the disturbances in the Bekship of Hissar. Khudayar declared this letter to be forged, and sent for comparison a genuine letter of Shir Ali. The seal did indeed seem to be a counterfeit one, and the Governor-General proposed to the Amir to return Karategin to its lawful ruler. In the meantime Shir Ali Khan raised some troops and marched into Karategin, but KAEATEGIN. 277 was defeated by the united forces of the Beks of Kulab and Hissar and was taken prisoner. Wishing to avoid any contest between the rulers of Buk- hara and Khokand, because the success of the former would lessen the moral value of the Eussian protection received by the latter, General Kaufmann proposed to Khudayar Khan to restore Karategin to its former ruler, Mozaffar Shah, who was kept a prisoner in Khokand, and asked the Amir in return to free Shir Ali. The compromise was accepted by both sides and was immediately put into execution. 1 In this way Karategin was formed into a practically independent state lying between Khokand and Bukhara, and the Eussians succeeded in attaining a sort of moral weight and influence in the concerns of that locality. Although the Khokandians claimed a nominal sovereignty over Karategin, it was never enforced, and certainly, of late years especially, since the Kirghiz insurrection, the rulers of Karategin have paid no tribute to the Khan, nor recognised in any way his au- thority over the country. After the capture of Shahrisabs in July 1870 Jura Bek and Baba Bek fled to Khokand, but owing to his previous enmity combined with the threatening demands of the Eussians, the Khan consented to infringe the laws of hospitality and de- livered the fugitives at Tashkent. Mr. Strove was then sent on a mission to Khokand to thank the Khan for his action and to discuss certain questions which had never been satisfactorily settled. Among these were the regulation of the boundaries, the settlement of the claims of Eussian merchants, the explan- ation of the circumstances which had delayed the return of Mo- zaffar Shah to Karategin, the appointment of a permanent agent in Khokand, and indemnity for the attack made by the moun- taineers on the Cossacks of Colonel Dennet during the expedition in the Upper Zarafshan. This last claim the Khan for some time resisted, but finally, through the advice of the more sensihle of his councillors, he yielded, and paid the sum of 5,000 rubles, part of which went to those wounded and to the families of the killed, and the rest to the fund for regimental churches. To the request for permission to appoint a permanent agent the Khan gave his consent, as indeed he had done on one or two previous occasions. But curiously enough, as soon as the consent 1 Terentief, id. pp. 43, 71. 278 TTJRKISTAN. was obtained the Eussian authorities thought no more about it and no permanent agent was ever appointed. A contrary course would have been much more beneficial to Eussian interests, for a resident agent, if a man of ability and well supported, could have succeeded in obtaining a strong moral influence over the Khan, and the Eussians would have been sufficiently well informed of the state of the country to have foreseen and prevented the explosion which resulted in the war of 1875. It seemed, however, at that time to General Kaufmann as well as to Mr. Struve, that the Khan was even then thoroughly a vassal of Eussia, and opportunity was taken to propose to him- the conquest of Kashgar. Yakub Khan had not at that time been recognised by the Eussian Government, which was consider- ably disquieted by the attitude he had taken, and it was thought to be a very shrewd plan to get rid of him in this way, and instead of two neighbours to have but one. Khudayar Khan could not, however, sum up resolution enough to agree to the proposal, and did nothing more than declare his readiness to act as mediator between Yakub Bek and the Eussians. In 1872 the Khan's eldest son, Nasreddin, Bek of Andijan, was allowed to visit Tashkent, where he remained for about three weeks. Although he engaged there in secret intrigues against the Eussians, this visit was thought greatly to strengthen Eussian influence in Khokand. 1 Khudayar Khan, who had never been a popular ruler, and who had twice been driven from the throne on account of his cruelty and rapacity, continually excited discontent among his subjects, and more especially among the nomad tribes of Kiptchaks and Kirghiz who lived in the mountainous regions of the north-east and south-east. Eebellions therefore were frequent, and a revolt broke out in 1873 which, though quelled for the time, was re- newed in 1874, and finally, in 1875, terminated in the war which led to the occupation and annexation of the Khanate by Eussia. The policy of the Eussian administrators during these insur- rections seems to have been a mistaken one. They endeavoured to remain neutral, but they were so insufficiently informed of the position of affairs and of the actual state of feeling in Kho- kand, that they did not seem to understand that they were looked upon as the protectors and supporters of the Khan ; and indeed 1 See also pp. 40, 142. DISCONTENT IN KHOKAND. 279 tLe Khan would have been dethroned long before had it not been for the fear of the inhabitants that the Russians would imme- diately march into the country and restore him. The officials at Tashkent did not seem to have sufficient foresight to see that the absorption of the Khanate by Russia was inevitable sooner or later, and that their best plan therefore was gradually to prepare the way for this by gentle means, so that the end might come without a shock. They further believed that the Khan was an obedient vassal, and they lulled themselves into a false security ; if they thought at all about annexation, they thought that the fear inspired by their arms throughout Central Asia was such as to render conquest a work of the greatest ease. This would have been true a few years ago, but of late the Russians had lost their moral weight in the country, and the natives of the Russian pro- vinces had become discontented. They had begun to look upon their new rulers as no better than their old. They had published their discontent in letters and petitions to the neighbouring countries, and the people in Khokand had not only resolved to attempt all rather than come under Russian rule, but had begun to believe that the Russians were weaker than they had previously supposed. At the outbreak of the rebellion in 1873 both Kirghiz and Kiptchaks so hated the Khan that they were inclined to be favourably disposed towards the Russians. 1 Many of them migrated across the boundary and asked the Russians to inter- vene and dethrone the Khan, and afford them protection. Nor was this movement confined to the nomads. Similar petitions were received from the inhabitants of towns. Had the Russians in the summer of 1873 chosen to occupy Khokand they could have done so without striking a blow, for both nomads and Sarts would have joined them, and the Khan would have been driven into exile at the first news of their advance. General Kolpakof- sky saw this, and telegraphed to St. Petersburg for permission to intervene, but the diplomatic storm with regard to the occupa- tion of Khiva was then in full blast and permission was refused. When the Russians declined to interfere on the side of the nomads it was believed that they maintained the side of the Khan, and as the feeling grew more and more bitter against Khudayar Khan it increased proportionately against the Rus- 1 See Appendix I., Vol. I. 280 TURKISTAN. sians. Finally, in 1875, a step was taken which without a doubt increased the hostile feelings against the Eussians and possibly precipitated the conflict. It was resolved to prepare for an expedition against Kash- gar. 1 In order to accomplish that end more speedily, it was desirable to send a part of the troops through Khokand, and Mr. Weinberg, the diplomatic official, was despatched on a mission to Khokand to secure the consent of the Khan to the passage of troops. Colonel Scobelef accompanied him, charged to explore the pass of Terek Davan leadiug to Kashgar. The mission took as a propitiatory offering to Khudayar Khan a boy of seventeen, named Abdul Keriin Bek, who had been put forward by the Kirghiz as a pretender to the throne. Abdul Keriin had lived in Hodjent all his life, knowing nothing of his ex- traction until the year before, when he was approached by the Kirghiz, and when he was removed to Tashkent on the com- plaint of the Khan, while his chief adviser, Abdul Kaum, was sent to Tchimkent. His surrender had never been asked for, and was entirely gratuitous on the part of General Kaufmann. This, like the surrender of Tokhtamysh Bek of Shahrisabs to the Amir of Bukhara, being contrary to the rules of asylum and hospitality wdiich even Central Asiatics recognise, was not only a shameful act on the part of the Russian authorities but it turned out contrary to their expectations; it lowered rather than increased their influence with the natives. In surrender- ing Abdul Kerim, General Kaufmann, it is true, requested the Khan to be gracious and pardon him, which, indeed, he pro- mised to do. The boy, who was confided to the care of Ata Bek, was lost sight of in the ensuing rebellion. The Russian mission, with a guard of twenty-two Cossacks and jigits, accompanied by Mirza Hakim, the Khokandian envoy, arrived at Khokand on July 25, 1875. When permission was asked for Colonel Scobelef to make his investigations of the mountain passes, the Khan consented, but said that part of the country was unsafe owing to disorders 1 It has been said that this expedition was in consequence of an arrangement made between General Kaufmann and Colonel Scobelef, by which to secure the good-will and family and court influence of the latter, who had been formerly opposed to General Kaufmann. For this purpose he was to be allowed to head a mili- tary expedition, and to receive the honours and advantages which accrued from it THE RUSSIAN MISSION IN DIFFICULTIES. 281 which had broken out among the nomads, although he had sent 4,000 men against them under the command of Abdurrahman Aftobatcha, and hoped that quiet would soon be restored. The Khan, however, seemed troubled by the course events were taking, and was disposed to listen with calmness to the advice given him by Mr. Weinberg on the part of General Kaufmann with regard to the treatment of his people, who urged upon him more moderation and justice. A few days later, on July 31, a report reached the capital that Nasreddin, the Khan's eldest son, had gone over to the rebels, and that the cities of Ush, Namangan, Andijan, and Assake were occupied by them. It became known at the same time that the real head of the insurrection was Abdurrahman Aftobatcha, who had been sent to quell it. The next day information was brought that the Khan's brother, Sultan Murad, Bek of Marghilan, had joined the insurgents. They had that day occupied Marghilan and were already within thirty or forty miles of Khokand. Khudayar Khan then resolved to put him- self at the head of the troops which remained favourable to him and to march against the insurgents. The Russian envoys unwisely decided to accompany him, thus giving him the ap- pearance of having Russian support. The march was fixed for August 3. but during the preceding night the greater part of the Khan's army, together with his second son, Madamin Bek, abandoned him to join the insurgents. Resistance was no longer to.be thought of, and Khudayar Khan decided to place himself under the protection of the Russian envoys and to seek a refuge in Tashkent. The Russian merchants in Khokand, with their clerks and assistants, also joined the mission. The exit from the city through the excited and angry mob was attended with considerable difficulty, but after a ride of two days under constant attack the party reached Hodjent in safety. The Russians had two jigits killed, while one dis- appeared. The retreat was a perilous one, for the party fell at one time into an ambuscade, and the soldiers who started w 7 ith the Khan abandoned him from time to time, and always fired at the Russians as they were leaving. Some of the messengers sent to Hodjent for assistance were killed, but one finally arrived in safety, and a force of troops was immediately iespatched to the boundary. The Khan was accompanied by 282 TURKISTAN. his younger son, Urman, Ata Bek, the Atalyk, Mullah Maaruf, Bek of Sokh and nephew of Khuclayar, and a suite of 643 people, many of whom were women. He had also a large train of carts, on which he succeeded in bringing part of his treasure, to the amount of over a million pounds sterling. For the bravery shown during this march each of the Cossacks was subsequently recompensed with the Cross of St. George, and a grant of 14,000 rubles was made by General Kaufmann to cover the loss of baggage and equipments, each Cossack receiv- ing 500 rubles as his indemnity. Mr. Weinberg insists that a hazavat or religious war against the Eussians was proclaimed at the opening of the insurrection. This, however, was not believed at the time, and the subsequent friendly overtures to the Eussians made it in their opinion improbable. The arrival, however, of the Eussian mission, which, by accident, coincided with the opening of the insurrection, the surrender of Abdul Kerim, and the protection afforded to the Khan, his family, and his treasure, all, doubtless, had their weight in inspiring the in- surgents with the belief that the Eussians were taking the part of the Khan and would endeavour to restore him to the throne. It was, therefore, but natural that they should attempt to gain time in order to be themselves the first in the field. When Colonel Scobelef and Mr. Weinberg returned from Khokand, General Kaufmann was at Vierny on a tour of in- spection, but hastening his departure he arrived in Tashkent on August 12, with the intention of taking such measures as would be necessary for the protection of the frontier. A few hours before his arrival a Khokandian envoy appeared bearing a letter from Nasreddin, who had been elected Khan after the flight of his father, as well as letters from the three chiefs of the insurrection, Abdurrahman Aftobatcha, Mullah Issa Aulie, and Halyk Nazar Parmanatchi. In these papers the causes of the insurrection were stated to be the crimes which Khudayar Khan had committed against the Shariat and his oppression of the people, facts which, it was stated, were necessarily well known to the Governor-General. A desire was expressed to live in peace with the Eussians, and a hope was indulged in that there would be no change in the relations between the two countries. General Kaufmann answered the new RELIGIOUS WAR PROCLAIMED. 283 Khan, with a promise to recognise him as such if he would bind himself to carry out all the treaties and engagements entered into by his father, and would recompense Eussian subjects for any losses they had sustained during the rebellion. This answer was returned with some confidence, because the Russians believed the young Nasreddin would prove a pliant tool, as he was known to be good-natured, not fanatical, to have adopted many Russian habits — especially that of drinking vodka — and they thought that from his visit to Tashkent he would have a knowledge of Russian ways and of Russian aims. But, almost at the same time with the letter, emissaries had been sent to stir up the inhabitants on the border, and proclamations had been issued, which were soon circulating throughout the country, calling upon all good inhabitants to rise against the Russian t} 7 rants and to unite with the Khokandians in a war for the faith. As usual on the proclamation of a religious war, a formal summons was sent to the Russians to become Mussul- mans. 1 1 This proclamation was brought to Hodjent by an officer, Eichholm, who had been taken prisoner at the station of Murza-rabat. It is curious enough to be given entire. 'To the Russian officers and to all officials my words are as follows: — In con- sequence of the evil character of Khudayar Khan, which resulted in careless- ness in regard to his subjects, his troops, and his realm, and in consequence of his tyranny, by the order of the All-highest God, and to punish our carelessness, part of our possessions fell under your rule. The said Khan thought only of earthly rule, and, therefore, for some years was friendly to you, for which reason we were greatly discontented, and waited until the fulness of time came. Now all the nomad and settled inhabitants there, small and great, who consider themselvfS Mussulmans, have agreed, since the mouths of all have become one month, and their heads one head, and have sent many troops to the side of Aulie-Ata and many to Tashkent out of Desht-i-Kiptchak, and we are here. By our Shariat we are bound to fight with you, — so says the All-high God. If we win we shall be warriors for the faith ; if we die we shall be martyrs. We strive for one or the other. By our Shariat it is necessary once to ask you to accept Islam. If you wish to turn to the true way and become Mussulmans, then you will become our brothers, and more than our brothers. If you do not consent to this we shall fight. At the present time we advise you to accept Islam. If you consent, then using the mercifulness of God, and of the Prophet, we grant you life and will be merciful towards you, and will raise you even higher than you are; but if you say that you are not content to become Mussulmans, and shall ask us to grant you mercy, and allow you to remove with your families in your former place of abode, we will consent even to this ; but if in obstinacy you do not consent, and you have a desire to fight, then we will fight, and one side or the other shall be turned to ashes. This is the aim of our wishes. By our law and custom we cannot refuse this. Our God and our word are one. Consider, as becomes you, the profit and 284 TUKKISTAN. A small force had been long before sent lo Tilau, on tna road leading across the Kendyr Tau mountains to Khokand, tc watch the frontier, but little attention was paid to the rumours of disturbances, and no attempt seems to have been made to find out, by means of native spies, the exact position of affairs in Khokand. When, therefore, on the night of August 6, authentic intelligence reached Tashkent that bands of Kho- kandian troops had entered the district of Kurama, and occu- pied the village of Ablyk, and that a force estimated at 10,000 men was descending the valley of the Angren ; when, the next day, Khudayar Khan arrived with his suite, who soon spread rumours of all kind among the native population ; and Avhen, shortly after, news arrived that Hodjent was besieged, that post-stations were destroyed, and communications with Tashkent entirely cut off, the bewilderment and excitement of the Eussian population speedily reached a great height. General Golo- vatchef was at once sent with a force to Tilau, while Colonel Scobelef, with a body of cavalry, undertook to patrol the district ; and the intelligence, which quickly came, that the in- vaders had been dispersed and had retreated homewards, hardly succeeded in allaying the panic. Eumours of every kind were rife ; — that Piskent had been burned, that Aulie-Ata had been attacked, that the Khokandian troops were but a few miles from Tashkent, and that on a certain day the town would be attacked, that Abdurrahman Aftobatcha had even sent an order to the stud at Kaplan-bek, demanding that seventy horses should be furnished for the breakfast of his soldiers, and that the popula- tion of the native town was about to rise. The presence of the numerous followers of Khudayar Khan did much to increase the excitement, and was very probably dangerous, as, although these men were enjoying Russian hospitality, they inveighed against the Russians as infidels, and endeavoured to excite sympathy for the Khokandians. It therefore, became necessary to disarm them, and for that purpose companies of troops were sent out at night to the bazaar, near which the Khan was living, and into the native town. The Khan was also despatched as soon as possible to Orenburg. 1 the harm which will be to you. Send an answer quickly. If the bearei of this give our words verbally, I beg you to believe him. The 22nd of Reljib, 1292. Sealed, Mci.lah Aeivuiirahman Paramanatchi, Son of Mussulman Kul. 1 For the convenience c-f Mrriaije it bee -.me necessiry for the Khan to change ALARM AT TASHKENT. 285 In anticipation of an attack the Prefect ordered the natives to take all their goods from the fair-grounds, which were situ- ated on the outskirts of the city, while many people in the bazaars, under the influence of the panic, buried their valuables. Arms from the Government arsenals were distributed to all the Eussians, and strict orders were given that no Eussian should appear in the street without them. In some of the Government departments the clerks even sat at work with their muskets by their sides. Orders were also issued that in case of an attack the women should be sent to the fortress, and the men should collect near the house of the Governor-General and round about the church. The night before the anticipated attack on the town all the troops were withdrawn from the barracks— thus leaving the city defenceless— and were stationed in the fortress, where they were kept under arms all night. Better news from Hodjent soon relieved the anxiety and allowed the inhabitants to breathe more freely. The alarm at Tashkent was not without reason, for the inhabitants of the districts of Kurama and Hodjent were not slow in yielding to the persuasions of the Kbokandian emis- saries, though many of them were shrewd enough to make their aid conditional on the defeat of the Eussians, while subsequent investigation proved that the aksakals appointed by the Russians had been the first to side with the Khokandians. Besides this, three stations on the post-road from Tashkent to Hodjent, as well as that of Nau, between Hodjent and Samarkand, had been burned and sacked, and the station masters and post-boys had either been murdered or carried off as prisoners. Travellers shared the same fate. The heads of two officers at Nau were cut off, and two others on the Tashkent road were taken prisoners and were threatened with death unless they turned Mussulmans. into Russian notes the silver he had brought with him from Khokand. He first went to a branch of the Government Bank, where he received for a khokand 14| kopeks, the real value, but finding that the Treasury received the khokand at the fic- titious rate prevailing at Tashkent of 20 kopeks, he transferred his business there, thus subjecting the Treasury to an actual loss, and remaining himself under the impression that the Government Bank had endeavoured to cheat him of a con- siderable percentage. When he was about to start, it was discovered that one of his boxes of silver had been stolen. The Russians refused to allow him to wait to find it, but promising that the police would find it, sent him off in great haste. 2«6 TURKISTAN. The movement of General Golovatchef towards the Angrtn and Tilau was attended with complete success. A large "body of Khokandians, estimated at 5,000c was speedily dispersed, while a smaller body of 800, under the command of Zulfukar Bek, sustained a desperate struggle with the Cossacks and finally ran away, leaving half of their number dead upon the field. The district of Kurama was in this way entirely cleared of marauders, and the road from Tashkent to Hodjent was reopened. Even before the news of the attack on Hodjent, a battalion of sharpshooters and a division of mounted artillery had been despatched there, and it now became necessary to advance with sufficient force not only to relieve Hodjent from danger, or to retake it if already captured, but to enter upon an offensive campaign. Including the troops already sent to Hodjent and those under command of General Golovatchef in the district of Kurama, the whole force amounted to 16 companies infantry, 20 guns, 9 sotnias of Cossacks, and 8 rocket-stands ; in all about 4,500 men, with 1,500 horses, commissariat, artillery, and engineer-trains, and a military hospital of 150 beds. Provi- sions were carried for fifteen days, and for the purpose of transport it was necessary to hire 1,500 carts at Tashkent at the rate of 30 rubles a month each. The expedition was com- manded by General Golovatchef, while all the cavalry was placed under the orders of Colonel Scobelef, for which purpose it was necessary to select the Cossacks in such a maimer that he should have no ranking officer. General Kaufmann in person, with all his staff, accompanied the expedition, taking with him Jura Bek and Baba Bek of Shahrisabs, and Seid Bek of Farab, who were devoted to Kussia, and had a grievance against Khudayar Khan, and who proved themselves of great use. The road being now clear, and the difficulties which retained for a time a portion of the troops at Kuiluk being obviated, the march was successfully accomplished, no Khokandians being seen except a few scattered marauders in the distance, and General Kaufmann with his main force arrived on August 30 at Hodjent, from before which the enemy had already disappeared. Of the details of the attack on Hodjent I have already spoken (vol. i. pp. 316 to 319). A day's rest was given to the troops, and on September 1 the expedition set out for Makhram, THE BATTLE OF MAKHEAM. 287 where, according 1 to all reports, the main body of the Khokan- dians was collected. The first camp was on the banks of the Syr Darya, at Ab-khurek. The next day's march brought the troops to Karatchkum, near which they were exposed to a running- fire from large bodies of Khokandians, who, however, kept themselves at a considerable distance on the hills, and with each charge of cavalry dispersed to meet again further on. The camp at Karatchkum was about three miles' distance from the fort of Makhram, the only fortified position between the frontier and the city of Khokand. This is a large square fort with battlement ed walls, surrounded by a deep ditch situated on the very bank of the Syr Darya, and guarding the road, for it is at the narrow opening of the valley of Ferghana, the ground in the neighbourhood soon rising into low hills and then into mountains. The sole entrance to the fortress is on the eastern side. The Khokandians had increased the ordinary defences of the place by making a fortified camp on the southern side, as also by directing the water from the irrigating canals in such a manner as to inundate the road for a, long distance, and to turn the immediate neighbourhood of the fort into a marsh. The troops left Karatchkum at five o'clock in the morning arranged in order of battle. They had no sooner began their march than they were annoyed by the Khokandian cavalry, which appeared first on their right and then surrounded them on all sides ; but some Cossacks thrown out as skirmishers, with rockets and artillery, succeeded in keeping the enemy at suffi- cient distance, so that the march was not imptded. General Kaufmann had command of the movements of the day in person. Having obtained information of the obstacles in their way, General Golovatchef suggested that a flank movement should be made to the right, so that the troops should march along the hills until the fort was passed, when by a direct movement the place might be taken without entering upon the inundated ground, or being exposed to the immediate fire of the fort. This was safely accomplished, and as soon as the troops had passed the further angle of the fort, they stopped. Guns were then placed in position, and a cannonade directed against the town which lasted for nearly an hour. A battalion of sharp- 288 TUKKISTAN. shooters was then directed to assault the works. In spite of the enemy's fire, and supported by their own artillery, in a quarter of an hour the Russians had carried the outworks and put the Khokandians to flight. This battalion was closely followed by another, and, the fortified camp thus taken, the troops advanced by the bridge over the moat, and placing their shoulders against the wooden doors, by repeated blows keeping time to a soldiers' chorus, they burst the gates down and entered the fortress. They were met by scattered shots from the roofs of houses ; although few of the enemy had been left in the fortress, and these quickly took to flight. In less than an hour the whole place was cleared. In the meantime the Cossacks under Colonel Scobelef, and the rocket batteries under Captain Abramof, attacked the masses of the enemy's cavalry drawn up in the gardens to the right, and after a short hand-to-hand contest put them to flight, and pursued them along the banks of the river for five or six miles. Many were cut to pieces, and others were driven into the river and drowned by ' hundreds.' On returning, the Cossacks suddenly came upon another large body of cavalry, and while hesitating to attack them, a fortunate discharge of rockets by Captain Abramof put them to flight, and the Cossacks returned to Makhram. This was the battle of Makhram, which was immediately heralded as a wonderful victory, the number of the Khokan- dians being estimated variously at thirty, forty, and fifty thou- sand men. 1 The Russian loss was eight wounded and six killed, including Colonel Khoroshkin, an excellent officer, who had devoted himself to the study of the country, and had con- tributed many valuable articles to the ' Turkistan Gazette ' and the ' Military Journal.' The native loss it is difficult to estimate. Official reports state that in the fortified position and the fortress 100 bodies were found, and that on the scene of the cavalry fight nearly 1,000 bodies were buried, besides those who were drowned in the river, who were killed at a distance, or whose bodies were carried away. 2 In Makhram the 1 The number of the enemy in this as in all the subsequent contests is doubtless very greatly exaggerated, for which it would probably be easy to find a reason. 40,000 which frequently occurs, — is, in Turlri, Kyrk-mivg, which is generally used by the natives as an indefinite expression for a great number. 7 A military reader might perhaps estimate the severity of the engagement by learning that 149 artillery shots were fired, 29 rockets, and 9,387 rifle cartridges. EFFECT OF THE VICTOKY. 289 Russians captured 39 pieces of artillery, 1,500 muskets and matchlocks, besides falconets and sabres, and more than 50 banners and standards. They also found a provision of powder and ammunition, including shells and lead, as well as flour and forage, which last was exceedingly welcome. In one of the glowing reports it was said, ' Thus by one blow we have annihilated the idea of the fanatics to raise against the Russians all the Mussulman population of Central Asia.' This, as will be seen, was by no means strictly true, but naturally the defeat inflicted upon the Khokandians did produce a great effect, especially among the surrounding population. Proclamations were sent out at the same time by General Kaufmann urging all persons to return to their occupations, placing the country under Russian rule, promising mercy and safety in case they should remain obedient to the Russians, and assuring them further that Khudayar Khan, who had lost the throne in conse- quence of his crimes, should not return to it. The surrounding inhabitants soon came in with protestations of submission and with provisions for sale. The troops remained at Makhram, waiting. for the arrival of transports from Hodjent, for three days longer, and on September 7 advanced toward Khokand. On the way General Kaufmann was met by envoys from the new Khan Nasreddin with presents and a letter explaining and apologising for the ' acci- dental conflict of troops upon the frontier and the consequent unpleasantness.' General Kaufmann refused to receive the pre- sents, and declared to the envoy that he could not answer such a letter, but that he would explain himself personally with the Khan of Khokand. At the same time word was sent that if the Khan and inhabitants of Khokand should meet him with proper submission and with dosturkhans, the troops would do them no harm, but that if they should attempt to resist, Khokand would be stormed and destroyed, and 'the blood of the unhappy victims would fall on the heads of those guilty of disobedience and unjust war against the Great White Tsar.' Issa Aulie, who had accom- panied the mission, received a severe reproof from General Kaufmann for his duplicity and evil conduct towards the Russians, and was not allowed to depart, being retained ' until he could In the affair of the previous day, on arriving at Karatchkum. l'p.sides 7 rockets and 9 artillery shots, 2,795 cartridges were discharged. VOL. II. U 290 TUKKISTAN. explain the part which he had played in exciting the Mussul- man movement in Khokand against the Russians.' The march from Bish-aryk to Khosh-Kupyr had the character of a triumphal procession. Everywhere along the road the inhabitants came out to meet the troops and present dosturkhans to the commander. A new mission arrived from Khokand, consisting of a deputa- tion from the merchants of the town, and an envoy from the Khan sent a dosturkhan and returned all the prisoners which remained from those who had been taken at Nau and the various post-stations, among them being the little daughter of Dr. Petrof, who had been beheaded at Nau. The prisoners — who had all had their heads shaved — reported that they had been well treated, the women and children being confined in the harem of the Khan. The information obtained by Colonel Scobelef during his mission at Khokand now proved of good service, and the troops were led round the walls of the city to the gate of Sary Mazar, on the southern side, where was the most convenient place for attacking the city in case of resistance. No resistance, however, was offered, and on September 10 the troops occupied the gates and part of the walls without a shot. The Khan came out to meet General Kaufmann, who, accompanied by his staff, entered the city, rode for a short distance along the streets, and then, together with the Khan, returned to his camp. For some days the Russians remained encamped at the gates of Khokand, where a bazaar soon grew up to which the natives brought cattle and provisions for the soldiers. The topographers used the time in making surveys of the country in the neigh- bourhood. It became necessary, on account of the unhealthiness of the situation, to change the camp to the other side of the city, and General Kaufmann, with his usual love of theatrical display, chose this as an occasion to march the troops through the town. He accompanied them, and made a short visit to the Khan as well as to the former envoy, Mirza Hakim. Meanwhile, there being rumours of an enemy's force gathering in the mountains near Isparah and in the vicinity of Kandbadam and Makhram, flying columns were sent out from Khokand and Hodjent and soon dispersed the small marauding bands. Although the Khan came every day to the Russian camp ABDURRAHMAN STILL BELLICOSE. 291 with news of what was going on in the city, yet there had been hut little response to the proclamation issued by General Kauf- nianu, and no declarations of submission had been made by Marghilan, Andijan, Namangan, or other large cities in the Khanate. General Kaufmann had sent a special messenger to Marghilan, requesting the elders of the place to be sent for con- ference, in order that he might convey to them the will of the Emperor, but no one appeared. A letter, indeed, was received from Sultan Murad Bek, of Marghilan, in which he expressed a hope for the renewal of the former friendly relations, and subse- quently another paper was received, stamped with the seals of seventy elders of the Kiptchaks, among them Abdurrahman Aftobatcha, the subject of which was, that as the fate of war had given the Eussians the victory over the Mussulmans, it befell them to ask that the people should receive the same quiet as the city of Khokand enjoyed. General Kaufmann again demanded that a person should be sent to his camp with whom he could confer, but no one appeared. It is strange that this appeared surprising to the Eussians when they had retained as a prisoner Issa Aulie, who had accompanied the first mission from Khokand. In the meantime intelligence had been received that the Aftobatcha was making a resistance, and had compelled the Bek and the inhabitants of Marghilan to join him, and was col- lecting a large force in the immediate vicinity of that place. Although the inhabitants of Khokand were apparently sub- missive, they yet seemed uneasy. The bazaars were almost empty, few of the shops were opened, and even those few ex- posed but a small quantity of wares of any kind for sale. It was, consequently, considered necessary to send forces towards Marghilan for the purpose of examining the condition of affairs, and of putting down any attempted resistance that Abdurrah- man Aftobatcha might make. General Kaufmann, therefore, set out with the troops from Khokand on September 17 for Marghilan; but on the 19th, Abdurrahman, who was encamped at Gurgil, three miles from Marghilan, with a force estimated at from 5,000 to 10,000 men and four guns, suddenly gave up the idea of fighting and re- treated, his forces rapidly dispersing, and it was said that he left Marghilan with only his Kiptchaks, who were devoted to u 2 292 TUEKISTAN. him, and "who still, according to a Russian account, numbered from 3,000 to 5,000 men. On the next day, as the Russians took up their position close to Marghilan, a deputation came out from the city, gave their complete submission, and asked to have the city spared. The same night a flying column, composed of Cossacks, rockets, and artillery, with two companies of infantry in carts, was sent out under command of Colonel Scobelef to follow up Abdurrah- man and his band. This column followed up the traces of Abdurrahman and turned off the direct road to Assake as far as Ming-tepe, near the mountains, where there was a small engage- ment, the combatants being rendered nearly invisible on account of the dust. The Russians suffered no loss, and found forty bodies of the enemy. Scobelef then pushed on as far as Ush, which he reached on September 22. The city immediately surrendered, and, after a stay of two hours, the cavalry passed on the road to Karasu ; but as it was reported that Abdurrah- man had finally been abandoned by nearly all his followers, and as General Scobelef had received orders from General Kaufmann not to go too far in pursuit, he returned on the next day to Marghilan. His advance to Marghilan, and the capture of L T sh had for the moment a good effect. Andijan, Balyktchi, Shahri- khana, Assake, and many villages immediately sent in their submission, and Halyk Nazar, one of the three leaders of the insurrection, was delivered up. Before his departure from Ush, General Scobelef levied a heavy contribution in provisions and horses upon that city, sent to Uzgent to demand the sub- mission of all the Kirghiz, and to say that if Abdurrahman, who it was thought had taken refuge there, were delivered up, the city would be spared. The whole of the country in this way having given in its submission, General Kaufmann supposed that peace and quiet were thoroughly restored, and that the end of the expedition was reached. He therefore invited Nasreddin Khan to Mar- ghilan, in order to arrange terms of a treaty of peace. By thia treaty ISTasreddin Khan was to pay the sum of 3,000,000 rubles ^410,000L), as a war indemnity, in the course of six years, and was to cede to the Russian Government all that part of the country north of the Syr Darya, the chief town of which is Namangan. Everybody was pardoned in honour of the occasion, MULLAH ISSA AULI& 293 including Issa Aulie and Halyk Nazar, and even those natives of Tashkent and Kurama, Russian subjects, who had taken part in the war. But, to quote a Russian account :— ' It was soon appa- rent that with these humane measures it was necessary also to take severe action against those who knowingly counteracted our plans and actions, and had an injurious influence upon the young and still inexperienced Khan. One of these evil-minded persons turned out to be Mullah Issa Aulie. His cunning- speeches had a very bad influence upon all with whom he was brought into contact. At a council which the Khan assembled the day before he was to sign the treaty, Issa Aulie, in the presence of two Eussian officials, dared to speak impudently to the Khan. This had to be stopped. The commander-in-chief of the armies called the Khan and all his high officials to his camp, and, explaining to the Khan and to all who surrounded him the injurious influence which some of those highest in rank had upon him, ordered that Issa Aulie, Zulfukar Bek, and Mahmud Khan Tiura, three of the chief persons who had incited the people to rebel and to fight against the Russians, should be arrested and immediately sent to Siberia.' * It is almost unnecessary to state that the Russian account goes on to say that this arrest produced an excellent impression, and that many of the suite of the Khan expressed delight and pleasure at this act of justice. Nasreddin Khan was now left to his own resources, and on the 5th of October the Russian troops left Marghilan, and on the 8th arrived at Namangan. According to Russian accounts, which seem not a little amusing when compared with what happened subsequently, the inhabitants of Namangan, even before the treaty, expressed to the Russians their delight and gratitude at the defeat of the Khokandians, and ' that they had been for ever freed from these robbers.' After the treaty was signed, a deputation was naturally sent from Namangan, to which Greneral Kaufmann returned a suitable answer. In consequence of this a written address, expressed in the most fulsome terms (Namangan was near enough to Tashkent to know how such things should be managed), was sent to Greneral Kaufmann, expressing the utmost delight at his kindness in receiving them as subjects of the 1 'Golos.'No. 304, 1875. 294 TURKISTAN. White Tsar. Nor did the inhabitants confine themselves to words, 120 carts were sent for the use of the soldiers on their forward march, and 40,000 cakes of bread were provided for them. On the banks of the river a large tent with a dostur- khan was prepared for General Kaufmann. The road from the river to the tent was covered with silk stuffs, and while the General walked from the bank to the tent, silver coins were showered down upon him. General Kaufmann thanked the representatives of the people for this reception, urged them to live according to their law? and not to listen to the advice of evil-minded people, and always in any circumstances of life to speak the truth. ' When on the other bank of the Darya I met with much lying and falsehood, I hope that here this will not be,' said the com- mander-in-chief. ' The Russian law demands that everyone shall live peaceably and grow rich. Let every one of you live as the law requires, and pray to God as his fathers have taught him. God is one, and both Eussians and Mussulmans all pray to the same God. The Russian law does not force anybody's conscience, nor demand that God should be prayed to in one way rather than in another. It only demands a good and just life.' When all the troops had crossed to the right bank of the Syr Darya a loud hurrah was raised for the Emperor. ' Cross yourselves, children,' said General Kaufmann, turning to the crowd of soldiers surrounding him. ' We are now in our own land, and God grant that here shall be good fame of us from one end to the other.' x This annexation of the district of Naman- gan was made on General Kaufmann's own responsibility without waiting for the authorisation of the Emperor, which did not arrive until long after. The Eussians, however, had not been long in Namangan before the hasty arrival of Mr. Kuhn and Captain Petrof, who had been sent from Marghilan to Andijan to pursue scien- tific investigations. They had been ill-treated by the inhabi- tants, and reported that Andijan was again in insurrection. It was, therefore, considered best to punish that city, and an expedition of 14,000 men and eight guns and four rocket stands was sent thither under the command of General Trotzky. 1 ' Golos,' No. 30i. Letter from Namangan, September 27 (October 9), 1875, PUNISHMENT OF ANDIJAN. 295 This expedition set out on October 10, and on the evening of the next day encamped a few miles from Andijan. The armed forces in the city were estimated by the Eussians to be between 60,000 and 70,000 men, under the leadership of Abdurrahman Aftobatcha, which was a little strange, considering that a few days before he had retreated to the mountains with only three or four followers. All the bridges had been broken, and Pulad Bek, who had been proclaimed Khan by the Kirghiz, was encamped in the neighbourhood with 15,000 Kirghiz, for the purpose of attacking the Eussians in the rear and cutting off connections. Pulad (or Fulat ; Bek professed to be the son of Atalyk Khan, the son of Alim Khan, one of the former rulers of the country ; but in reality he was a tobacco-seller of Piskent by the name of Mullah Iskak, who the year before had been chosen by the Kirghiz to personate the real Pulad Bek, and was by them proclaimed Khan. The real Pulad Bek, who was then eighteen years old, was living quietly with his mother in Samarkand. As Abdurrahman showed no signs of submission, it became necessary to take the city by storm, and General Trotzky, dividing his command into three detachments, entered the city the next day. The streets through which the troops passed were barricaded, and it was a hand-to-hand contest to reach the centre of the town, where the palace of the Bek — which had been built by Nasreddin in Kussian style — was situated. Here the three detachments met, but, after a stay of two or three hours, it was considered that the object of the expedition — to punish Andijan — would be completed if the troops retired, burning everything on their way. They found retreating, however, as difficult as advancing, and their whole movement through the town was a running fight. One detachment, how- ever, having provided materials from the powder which had been found in the palace, was able to set fire to the bazaar and all the chief buildings on the route, and, on leaving the town, the greater part of it was in flames. The fortified camp was reached in safety, but, as it was necessary to complete the punishment and prevent the inhabitants from putting out the fires, Greneral Trotzky, two hours after the retreat, sent out six guns under cover of two sotnias of Cossacks, commanded by Colonel Scobelef, and the city was bombarded for three hours. 296 TURKISTAN. Meanwhile, the Kirghiz had come near the camp, and had kept up a sharp fire upon the soldiers remaining there. The next day, being convinced that the city had suffered great loss from the fires, and feeling assured from the report of spies that the inhabitants admitted their inability to contend with the Russians, and that no harm could be done to the Kir- ghiz and Kiptchaks, — who were considered the real hos lie elements,— by the further ruin of Andijan, General Trotzky thought his best plan was to give a little rest to his troops, and, the next day, retreated to Namangan. He, however, profited by the time he had left to give the city, and especially the bazaar, a further bombardment. On October 15 he retired in the direction of Namangan, burning and ravaging all the villages and farms on his route, 1 but his march, as far as the river, was accomplished under a heavy fire from the enemy, who closely followed him. On October 17, however, the enemy was not in sight, and he met with the troops of General Kauf- mann, who— not having received any intelligence, his messengers having been intercepted — had marched out to meet him. The losses from October 12 to 16 consisted, according to one of the Russian reports, which vary, of ten killed and seventy wounded, but private letters state the actual loss to have been from four to five times as many. From the official reports, even, it is impossible to consider the attack on Andijan aa anything less than an unsuccessful attempt at an occupation of the city and a forced retreat. Officers who were present confirm this, and it is no wonder then that the natives con- sidered General Trotzky beaten. The telegrams of the com- mander-in-chief to St. Petersburg about this affair represented that Andijan was taken by storm ; and, immediately upon this, General Trotzky was presented with the Cross of St. George, of the third class, and with a gold-mounted sword. On the return of the troops to Namangan, it was found that the state of affairs' in the newly-acquired province, which had expressed so much joy at its annexation, was not entirely satis- factory. The inhabitants had abandoned their villages and formed bands under the command of Batyr Tiura, the former 1 The Russian officers were apparently unaware of the negotiations which had taken place at St. Petersburg to ensure the success of the Brussels Conference on the laws of war ! KASBEDDIN DEPOSED. 297 Bek of Namangan. The little expeditions sent against them produced no decided results, as the nomads always succeeded in evading the troops. General Kaufmann, however, considered the state of affairs such as no longer to necessitate, or indeed to warrant, his pre- sence in the country, and he therefore started for Hodjent on October 28 with the whole of his staff and a portion of his troops, leaving in command Scobelef, who, by a telegram from St. Petersburg, had just been raised to the rank of major- general, in the suite of the Emperor, as a reward for the services he had rendered during the campaign. Unfortunately, the march of General Kaufmann was harassed by Kirghiz and Kiptchak bands, and the troops were under fire for the whole distance. The natives, therefore, may be pardoned for thinking, as they did, that Greneral Kaufmann had retreated because his position was no longer tenable. Shortly after the unsuccessful attack of General Trotzky on Andijan, the inhabitants of Khokand, learning the conditions of the treaty which their Khan had concluded, and being displeased not only with them but with him, drove him out of the city in such order that he was unable to take with him either his wives or his treasure, as his father had done. Nasreddin arrived alone at Hodjent, almost the same moment as General Kaufmann. Khokand was immediately occupied by the partisans of Pulad Bek, and Abul Gaffar, the former Bek of Uratepe l — who had been living for many years in Tashkent as a Eussian pensioner, but who had made his way to Khokand on the first outbreak of the war, — seized upon the Government. Soon after the departure of General Kaufmann from Naman- gan so much disturbance was created in the provinces by marauding bands, that General Scobelef found it necessary to take a portion of his command to Tiura-kurgan, a small fortified town eight miles west of Namangan, where on November 4 he defeated the band of Batyr Tiura, and at the same time punished the city for its share in the rebellion. Thence he went on to Tchust. He had, however, no sooner left Namangan than the Kiptchaks of the neighbourhood, joined by many from the other side of the Syr Darya, entered the city, the inhabitants of which, who had so lately received the Eussians with joy, rose to a man. 1 See ;o\. i. p. 87. 298 TURKISTAN. An attack was made on the small force of Russians in the yet un- finished citadel, and on the camp outside of the town. The Russian troops succeeded in defending themselves until, on the 7th at noon, General Scobelef arrived, having- heard of the state of affairs at midnight before, and having had a severe fight for the last eight miles of his march. Placing sixteen guns in posi- tion, the next day he bombarded that portion of the city occupied by the Kiptchaks and then advanced to the storm, which was rendered unnecessary by the flight of the enemy. Most of the town, however, was destroyed. The Russian loss is set down as six killed and thirty-two wounded, the Kiptchak loss at 3,800 killed ! The soldiers were then quartered in the few houses that remained. Meanwhile the state of anarchy in Khokand which followed the expulsion of Nasreddin was giving the Russians serious disquiet, and Makhram was occupied by the forces under Major Rodzanko to protect the Hodjent frontier. The defeats inflicted on the Khokandians at Andijan and Namangan, and even the wholesale destruction of their villages and towns, did not seem to dishearten them. It was found that large bands of nomads were collected in the neighbourhood of Balyktchi, a city situated near the junction of the Naryn and Syr Darya. It was reported that several bands of 3,000 to 4,000 men each were collected near the city, and that in the city itself were fully 20,000 armed men. In consequence of this on November 4 General Scobelef set out for Balyktchi and after a sharp fight defeated the enemy and took the city, where he found a quantity of provisions. The enemy's bands at once dispersed, and General Scobelef returned to Namangan. As the population of the Khanate was still unquiet General Scobelef received orders from General Kaufmann to ravage during the early winter the territory situated between the Naryn and Syr Darya, which was considered the centre of the Kiptchak population. The people could not then escape to the mountains, but would be concentrated in their winter quarters, and it would be a convenient opportunity for inflicting a serious punishment on them. On January 6 General Scobelef set out from Namangan with a command of 2,800 men, crossed the Naryn, and in spite of the severe cold pursued his march up the northern bank of the Syr Darya — or, as it is SURRENDER OF ABDURRAHMAN. 299 here called, the Kara Darya — destroying Paita, the chief Kip- tchak settlement, defeating a band of Kiptchaks, and destroying everything on his route as far as Sarkhaba, which he reached on January 14. After a small fight here he pursued his way to Andijan, where, ' according to exact information,' 30,000 of the enemy were collected. After four or five days spent in recon- noissances, ' in order to avoid the shedding of blood,' siimmonses were twice sent to the city to surrender. These summonses remained without result, and the last messenger was killed. On January 20 the village of Iskylik was taken by storm, and a battery was at once stationed to bombard the city. After firing 500 rounds two storming-columns entered and soon found their way to the centre of the town, where another battery was placed, and continued the bombardment for the rest of the day. The next day the troops met with no opposition and occupied the city. The Russian loss was two killed and seven wounded ; ' the loss of the enemy was immense.' On the 22nd General Scobelef occupied the palace (although, according to General Trotzky's report, it had been burned), and on the next day made a reconnoissance in the direction of Assake, to which place the Khokandians had retreated. On January 30 information was received that Abdurrahman Aftobatcha was, with 15,000 men, only six miles from Andijan, and was preparing an insurrection in the town, with the idea of falling upon the Russian forces. General Scobelef then advanced, but did not discover the enemy until he had nearly reached Assake, which place he took after a hard struggle. He stated the Russian loss to be ten wounded, while of the enemy forty corpses were found on the spot. As the result of this battle the towns of Shahrikhana and Marghilan sent in their submission. General Scobelef returned to Andijan, and on February 1 Abdurrahman made proposals for a conference, which was held on the 5th, and he surren- dered unconditionally, together with Batyr Tiura, Isfendyar, and other chiefs, relying on the mercy of the Emperor. After the surrender of Abdurrahman the whole country was at the mercy of the Russians, but it became difficult to know what to do. By this time the population of Khokand, which had so hastily dethroned Nasreddin, had become discontented with the exactions which they suffered under Pulad Bek and 300 TURKISTAN. Abul Gaffar Bek, and a deputation was sent to Hodjent to Nasreddin asking- him to return. He finally decided to do so, and went to Makhram to watch for a favourable opportunity. On February 23 he left Makhram and advanced to a village in the immediate vicinity of Khokand, where he was attacked by the partisans of Pulad Bek and completely defeated, barely escaping with his life to Makhram. In some way or other he had made the inhabitants believe that the Eussians greatly desired his return, and now, after the surrender of Abdurr- ahman, the chiefs were uncertain whether they ought to receive him or not. Pulad Bek took refuge in the Alai mountains, near Utch- kurgan. A small force was despatched after him, which took the town, capturing at the same time many of his supporters, and standards, weapons, and ammunition. Nasreddin then succeeded in reaching Khokand, but in view of his weak character and the disturbed state of the country, orders were given to General Scobelef to occupy that city, which he did on February 20. He found there 62 guns, and large supplies of powder and ammunition. Long before the campaign in Khokand was actually finished General Kaufmann had gone to St. Petersburg, and General Kol- pakofsky, who was now in command, considered it necessary to go personally to Khokand to bring order into the country. To render this easier Nasreddin Khan, Abdurrahman Aftobatcha, and other prominent persons, who had shown great hostility to the Eussians, were sent prisoners to Tashkent. On the anniversary of his accession (March 2) the Emperor signed an order for the annexation of Khokand, and General Kolpakofsky, who had just arrived, proclaimed to the inhabi- tants that their prayer to become Eussian subjects had been granted, and that the whole country was now annexed to Eussia, and would be known as the district of Ferghana (its ancient name). It was placed under the rule of General Scobelef. Soon after this Pulad Bek was captured by an energetic Kirghiz and brought to Margin] an, where he was hanged, on the ground that he had killed twelve Eussian soldiers whom he had taken prisoners. 1 The official reports are silent as to any 1 The fate of the non-commissioned officer Thomas Danilof, although it was not known until long afterwards, excited great indignation. He was captured RESULT OF ANNEXATION. 301 prisoners being taken on either side, but we know from other sources that not only had the road from Namangan to Hodjent been unsafe since the first occupation of that territory, but that marauders had even penetrated within the Eussian lines and there captured small bands of people. All the transports from Hodjent to Namangan were compelled to go under a strong escort, and on one occasion two Eussian officers with twelve Cossacks had been captured and killed. It seems that quiet has not entirely been restored even by the annexation, for we find that several tribes of the Kara- Kirghiz — especially the Bogus — refused to take part in the general submission of Khokand and concentrated themselves in Gultcha, under command of Abdullah Bek. General Scobelef was sent there with a considerable force, and succeeded in obtaining the submission of all the Kirghiz chiefs, with the exception of Abdullah Bek and two of his companions, who fled further into the mountains, whither they were pursued by jigits. The events of this last campaign will probably open the eyes of Eussian administrators, who will see that a country which it would have been easy to secure by proper means has been found the hardest of all to take by force of arms ; and although this is not so much owing to the warlike character of the nomad population as to the hatred which has grown up of recent years to the Eussians and the dislike to falling under their rule, it remains to be seen whether this province, ravaged as it has been by the orders of Eussian generals, will be easily governed ; and it is to be hoped that this at least will bring the Eussians to see the necessity of better administration and of a wiser treatment of the natives. The new province of Ferghana will probably be of advantage to Eussia in relieving the treasury, and will not be —like so while forming purt of a convoy between Tashkent and Namangan. Every effort was made to induce him to become a Mussulman, but he remained faithful to the last, and displayed remarkable fortitude when he was shot at Marghilan bv order of Pulad Bek. The punishment of Pulad Bek seems to have been well deserved, for during the last days of his power he had revelled in execution, and when Marghilan was again occupied by the Russians it was found impossible to place troops in the citadel on account of the putrid blood and the numbers of unburied corpses. He particularly exercised his rage against the women and the retainers of Khudayar Khan and the family of Abdurrahman. 302 TURKISTAN. much other conquered territory — a mere barren acquisition. The Russians estimate the number of its inhabitants at 960,000, but this is probably far too large ; 600,000 even would seem a large estimate. Mr. Kuhn, who accompanied the expedition for the purpose of making historical and statistical researches, estimated the revenues of the country under Khokandian rule, including only those which were allowed by the Shariat — the haradj, tanap, zekat, and salt tax — at about two and a half millions of rubles (340,000^), a sum equal to the whole revenues of Russian Turkistan, up to the Khokandian Campaign. It is doubtful, however — bearing in mind the injuries inflicted upon the country by the war — whether for many years it will equal this amount. The Khan by his exactions obtained much more. SECOND — BUKIIARA. The relations of Russia with Bukhara were always much pleasanter than those with the other Central Asiatic countries. Even before the reign of Peter the Great there were exchanges of embassies, which after that time became more frequent, and the caravan trade was unrestricted until the capture of Tashkent. The Amir of Bukhara then took up a hostile position, imprisoning Messrs. Struve, Tatarinof, and Glukh- ofsky, the Russian envoys sent to him by General Tchernaief, in retaliation for which all the Bukharan merchants within the Russian lines were placed under arrest. He was, however, so thoroughly defeated by General Romanofsky at the battle of Irdjar, — one result of which was the loss of Hodjent, — that he released the envoys and made peace, although no definite treaty was signed. The basis of one had been drawn up by General Kryzhanofsky and approved by the Emperor. General Kauf- mann had introduced into it certain alterations, chiefly insist- ing that relations should be carried on exclusively with the G-overnor-Greneral of Turkistan; and in September, 1867, the treaty was sent through the Bukharan envoy to the Amir for signature. Instead, however, of the ratification of the treaty the Amir sent a new envoy with a letter. In the meantime Lieu- tenant Sluzhenko and three artillery soldiers had been captured by the Bukharans on the road from Tchinaz to Jizakh ; and Sluzhenko, by means of torture and threats of death, had been HESITATION OP THE AMIR. 303 forced to embrace Mohammedanism, and to become instructor of the Bukharan troops. From these circumstances, and from the action of the envoy it became evident that the Amir did not really desire peace, but was waiting for an opportunity to fall again upon the Eussians. General Kaufmann, who in the meantime had arrived, sent a new demand to the Amir, insist- ing upon the immediate ratification of the treaty and the release of Sluzhenko. In March a letter was received from the Kush-begi with information of the release of Sluzhenko and his comrades, but giving an evasive reply about the treaty. At the same time disturbances began to take place all along the Bukharan frontier, although there is good reason to believe that these were not instigated by the Amir, but were set on foot by the two hostile parties who were discontented with him. The evasive conduct of the Amir and these disturbances were the immediate cause of the campaign which ended in the occupation of Samarkand and the annexation of the district of Zarafshan. I have given an account of this campaign in Vol. I. pp. 241-247, but there are still a few details which may be interesting. Before risking his fortune again in contest with the Russians the Amir tried to obtain allies, but the exertions of his nephew, Mohammed Farissakh, at Calcutta and Constan- tinople had been fruitless, and even the Khan of Khokand had refused assistance, being desirous of watching the turn of events and waiting his opportunity. To obtain money for the war the Amir had recourse to two extraordinary taxes on merchants, and to raising the value of the tenga from 64 tchekas to 132 tchekas. As the silver had already been taken from circulation the course of the tenga rose to 200. The consequent stoppage of trade and the distress of the people excited much discontent against the Amir ; and the fanatical Mullahs, being indignant at the sum taken from their incomes as teachers in the mosques, accused him of using the money for other purposes, and there- fore insisted more strongby on the proclamation of a religious war. The Amir, however, was still undecided, and put off the declaration of war from one feast to another, till finally, at the festival of Kurban Bairam, when he was absent at the shrine of Baha-uddin, the leading Kazis and Mullahs published a 304 TURKISTAK. decree declaring the necessity of a religious war against the Eussians. The Amir on returning to Bukhara was so ill- treated by the mob that he immediately withdrew and retired northwards to Hizhduvan. The disorders in Samarkand had been so great that Osman, the commander of the troops — a runaway Cossack — had been obliged to march out to quell them, and had lost 62 men in doing so. At Hizhduvan the Amir, learning of the affair near Jizakh, and of the desertion of the Afghans under Iskender Khan, immediately went to Kermineh and proclaimed a war. 1 General Kaufmann at first intended to make the province of Samarkand into a semi-independent state under Seid Khan, the nephew of the Amir, but finding him too much under the influence of the Beks of Shahrisabs gave up that project and made two propositions to the Amir, one of which was that he (the Amir) should pay 150,000 tillas (750,000/.) and receive back Samarkand ; the other being that he should pay the expenses of the war — about 18,000/.- -while Samarkand and its provinces should be annexed to Russia. Neither of these propositions was accepted. The battle of Zera-bulak followed, which ended in the complete defeat of the Amir and in the repulse of the troops of Shahrisabs from Samarkand. The Amir then offered an unconditional capitulation, re- questing only an interview with the Emperor to ask permis- sion to go to Mecca. This proposition General Kaufmann rejected, saying it had never been his intention to destroy the Khanate of Bukhara. What were his motives in refusing the advantages which would have been brought to Eussia by the occupation of the whole country, or which would have ensued even from accepting the proposition and then restoring the Amir to the throne as a dependent prince and actually ruling the country through him, have never been known, but it must be remembered that the whole campaign was in positive dereliction of the orders of the Emperor to make no further advances. Mozaffar Eddin was therefore left in possession of all of Bukhara west of Katta Kurgan. The valley of the Zarafshan up to that point was annexed to Eussia, and by a secret article of the treaty which was signed on June 23 (July 5), 1868, the 1 See vol. i. pp. 88, 89. REVOLT OF THE KATTA TIURA. 305 Amir bound himself to pay 125,000 tillas (80,000£.) during the course of a year. The capture of Samarkand and the disastrous peace excited great discontent against the Amir among his own subjects, especially among the fanatical Mussulman party; and his eldest son, the Katta Tiura, the heir to the throne, was induced to take up arms against him, and issued a proclamation, in which his father, on account of his peace with Eussia, was declared to be an infidel and to be unworthy to rule. The Katta Tiura was then in Shahrisabs, and the Amir advanced with his army to Tchiraktchi, hoping to forc^ Jura Bek to give up his son. General Kaufmann, to show his friendly disposition, at the same time ordered General Abramof to make an advance on Kara-tepe, Urgut, and Djam, so as not to allow the Beks of Shahrisabs to afford the Katta Tiura any real aid. The Katta Tiura, therefore, entered into negotiations with the Turkomans, with the Kirghiz, with Khiva, and with Sadyk, the celebrated Kirghiz chief, who got hold of Nurata, and marched on to Kermineh, where he had been named Bek. The Amir, frightened at this, left a small body of men at Tchiraktchi and returned to Bukhara, on which both Tchiraktchi and Karshi were immediately occupied by the Katta Tiura. The attitude of the Eussians, however, compelled Jura Bek to withdraw with 4,000 troops from Karshi, and the movements of the Katta Tiura were therefore stopped. The Amir at the same time advanced from Bukhara, defeated Sadyk at Kermineh, and restored his power. Another Kirghiz chief, Nazar, with 10,000 men, besieged Khatyrtchi, and a part of his force crossed the new Eussian boundary, over which they were speedily driven back. The Turkomans made forays in the close vicinity of the city of Bukhara, so that the Amir was almost besieged. The Eussians pursued a policy which has been several times adopted by them, but not always with success. They thought it better for their interests to keep the weak, unpopular ruler on the throne of Bukhara, rather than allow him to be over- thrown by his son, who was young and energetic, and was not animated by too great friendship for Eussia. It was feared that the Katta Tiura in case of success would not recognise as binding the treaty made by his father. VOL. II. x 306 TURKISTAN. At this juncture, in order to give some active assistance to the Amir, who had at last applied for aid, General Kaufmann sent an expedition under Greneral Abramof to Karshi, which was immediately taken. In order to prove the peaceable in- tentions of the Eussians and their sincere desire to assist him, the Eussian troops after two days were withdrawn, and Karshi was delivered up to the Amir, who was so pleased at this that he then requested the Eussians to conquer Shahrisabs for him ; and the Beks of that city, being disturbed by the Eussian re- connoissances, of their own accord sent in their submission and agreed to return the town of Yakobak. The Amir, however, refused to receive the Katta Tiura, who turned for refuge to Greneral Abramof, and begged him to reconcile him to his father, whom he would henceforth obediently serve. The Amir then agreed to pardon his son, who, however, feeling doubts of his sincerity, again requested the protection of Eussia ; but after receiving permission to go to Samarkand he turned on the road and occupied Katyrtchi, where he executed many of his opponents. He then moved on Kermineh, but the Amir was before him, and he therefore fled to Nurata, and thence to Khiva, Afghanistan, and at last to Kashgar, where he lives half a prisoner in the fort of Yangy-Hissar. These circumstances prevented the Amir from paying his contribution punctually, and he delayed still more owing to rumours that a new Governor-General with a new policy was to be appointed in place of Greneral Kaufmann, and on account of the disorders in the Kirghiz Steppe, which seemed seriously to threaten the Eussian domination. But the dis- orders were quelled, Greneral Kaufmann returned, and finally, in 1870, the last quota of the contribution was paid. Whether or not there may have been some ambiguity in the terms of the treaty, the Bukharans certainly seemed to think that Samarkand would be returned to them, for they took every occasion of bringing up this question. In the autumn of 1869 Seid Abdullah Fattah Khan, a younger and the favourite son of the Amir — commonly known as the Tiura- Jan — was sent in company with two officials on an embassy to St. Petersburg. In spite of the warning received from General Kaufmann that missions must not address the central Government on any political question, the Tiura-Jan on THE TIURA-JAN. 307 his reception by the Emperor did proffer the prayer of the Amir for the return of Samarkand. The categorical refusal of the Emperor did not seem to convince him that the request would not be granted, and he still endeavoured to talk on the subject with statesmen at St. Petersburg. On the return of the embassy the Tiura-Jan again addressed General Kaufmann on the subject, but to no purpose. 1 The feeling on this subject among the Bukharans was so strong that on several occasions when Russian embassies have gone to Bukhara rumours have circulated in the city that they came for the purpose of restoring the Zarafshan province ; and even when I was in Bukhara in 1873, during the time of the Khivan expedition, questions were put to me as to whether the Russians did not at last intend to fulfil their agreement. Until the Shahrisabs expedition in 1870 nothing of particular importance occurred in the relations of the two countries except the reconnoissances in 1869-70 in the Kyzyl Kum, the settlement of the Karategin difficulty, and the defeat on Bukharan territory of the robber band of Baban, who, with twenty-five other prisoners, was delivered up to the Bukharan authorities for execution. Before the return of the Tiura-Jan from St. Petersburg there were rumours in Tashkent that the Amir was in negotiation with Khiva and the Afghans for a campaign against Russia, and Colonel Nosoviteh was therefore sent to Bukhara to find out what was taking place, and to assure the Amir of the friendly dispo- sition of the Russians. He found an Afghan embassy there, but the cautious Amir had already given them an evasive answer which could easily be construed into a refusal to enter into their plans. In the summer of 1870 General Abramof undertook the Iskender Kul expedition, 2 which resulted in the annexation of the upper valley of the Zarafshan. This was immediately followed by the capture of Shahrisabs, the expulsion of Jura and Baba Bek, and the delivery of the country to the Amir, 3 1 The Tiura-Jan, who had been marked out by the Amir as his heir, subse- quently died of a lingering disease. A Russian physician was sent to him from Samarkand, but he was unable to arrest the malady. 2 See vol. i. pp. 280-283. 3 For an account of this expedition see p. 74. It should have been there stated that, after the capture of Shahrisabs. Aidar Hodja, the man for whose extra- dition the expedition had been nominally undertaken, was tried by the Russian authorities and was acquitted. x 2 308 TURKISTAN. who agreed to pay to each of the exiled Beks a pension of 2,000 rubles a year. It has, however, been found very diffi- cult to exact the payments, and sometimes they have been long in arrear. The surrender to the Amir of Shahrisabs, as that of Ivarshi previously, was made against the wish and in spite of the protests of the native population, who much preferred to remain under Russian rule than to be under that of Mozaffar Eddin. The bad harvests of 1870 produced not only great distress but great discontent among the population, who accused the Russians of not allowing sufficient water for irrigation to pass through the Zarafshan into Bukharan territory, and also of forbidding the sale of grain. In consequence of this, as I have explained in another piace, 1 a joint commission was appointed to regulate the water supply. In 1871 there was an occurrence which was rightly estimated by many as derogatory to Russian dignity. The Beks whom the Amir had appointed to his newly acquired province of Shahrisabs were in some degree in sympathy with the popula- tion of that country, and were therefore popular. They could not help thinking that they owed in great measure their posi- tions to the Russians. When therefore in 1871 General Kauf- mann paid a visit to Samarkand, these Beks, one of whom was named Tokhtamysh, came to Samarkand to pay him their respects, and, as he entered the city, took part in the national game of baiga. According to Bukharan etiquette persons of their rank should do this in the presence of their lawful sovereign only. Hearing of this the Amir immediately re- moved them from their dignities, and ordered their property to be confiscated, on which they fled to Samarkand. Although the Bukharan Amir had never given up Russian deserters, yet General Kaufmann, wishing to ingratiate himself in every possible way with the Amir, complied with his request and ordered the Beks to be sent to Bukhara, expressing, however, the hope that the Amir would pardon their faults. For some time they were in exile at Tchardjui, but subsequently were restored to favour. The relations of Bukhara with the Porte, in consequence of a certain Abdul Hai having been received in Constantinople as the envoy of the Amir, caused a diplomatic correspondence, when 1 Vol. i. p. 288. DOUBLE-DEALINGS OE THE AMIE 309 the Amir formally promised henceforth to abstain from direct relations with the Sultan. In spite of the benefits conferred upon the Amir, of the numerous friendly embassies, and of other means taken to assure him of the friendliness of the Russians, he likes them no better in his heart, though his experience of their strength leads him to avoid as far as possible causes of conflict. He has, however, made no efforts to carry out the treaty of commerce, the Russian merchants being compelled to pay illegal duties (although a portion has been refunded). For two years the Amir did not pay to the exiled Beks of Shahrisabs the sums due to them, notwithstanding repeated requests from the Tashkent authorities. It is strange that these requests were not made in a more forcible form, but it is probable it was feared the Amir might be hostile during the Khivan expedition. When the Khivan expedition started there was general fear in Bukhara that it was directed also against that city, and merchants even sent away their property and came to Samarkand to be out of harm's way. At one time the terror was so great that the population proposed to seize upon the Amir and deliver him up to the Eussians. The Amir, however, professed friendliness towards the Russians, met them at the frontier with messages and presents, and sent an envoy with the expedition. He also furnished a certain amount of pro- visions and camels, though, with the exception of a small pre- sent, these were sold at high prices and not given away. He further held himself ready to take advantage of any circum- stances favourable to himself; and while he was sending kind words and worn-out camels to the Russians he was giving his blessing and opening his purse to three Turkoman chiefs, who left Bukhara for Khiva. The Russian authorities, however, considered it best to wink at his conduct, and to reward his friendliness and the equanimity with which he .regarded the establishment of a Russian fort at Khalata, within the Bukharan territory, by bestowing upon him a narrow strip of country on the right bank of the Oxus which had been in dispute between him and Khiva. Nothing had been said in the commercial treaty with regard to slavery or the slave-trade, but it was impressed upon the Bukharan authorities that the Russians disapproved of this shameful traffic and desired its immediate cessation. In con- 310 TUEKISTAK sequence of this the Bukharans gave out to the Russians that the trade in slaves (the slaves here are all Persians) had entirely ceased, and dust was thrown in the eyes of the Eussian officials who came to Bukhara, so that the diplomatic employe made a report to General Kaufmann in 1870, in which he stated that, after careful investigation, he was convinced that, in deference to the wish and principles of Russia, the slave-trade had entirely ceased. Merchants, however, who had better opportunities of seeing, knew that it was going on in full force, but their reports were disbelieved in Tashkent. Mr. Petrofsky, the agent of the Ministry of Finance, was in Bukhara in 1872, and having seen with his own eyes the sale of Persian slaves in the bazaar, made a strong report to General Kaufmann, of which no notice was taken. My purchase of a slave at Bukhara caused a certain sensation at Samarkand and Tashkent, as it was at the same time as the release by Greneral Kaufmann of the Persian slaves at Khiva ; but the act was viewed with favour by most persons, official and otherwise, for it was said that I had given the Government actual proof of the existence of the forbidden traffic. Some of the more outspoken partisans of the Governor-General were displeased, wrongly thinking that my action was intended as an inuendo against him. After the close of the Khivan campaign Mr. Struve was sent on a mission to Bukhara for the purpose of making a new treaty. This treaty was signed by the Amir on September 28 (October 10), 1 873, and a clause was inserted in it which read : ' To please the Emperor of all the Russias and to enhance the glory of his Imperial Majesty, his Worship the Amir SeidMozaffar has ordered the shameful traffic of human beings, which is contrary to the laws of humanity, to be henceforth abolished in the dominions of Bukhara. In accordance with this resolve, Seid Mozaffar will give the strictest injunctions to all his Beks and a special order will be sent to all the Bukharan frontier towns to which the slaves are transferred from neighbouring countries for sale to Bukharan subjects, that, besides the cessation of the slave- trade, if, contrary to the order of the Amir, slaves shall be brought thither for sale, they shall be taken away from their masters and immediately set at liberty.' Unfortunately, the Russians have always found it more easy TEEATY OF 1873. 311 to make treaties in Central Asia than to enforce their observance, and I have received information from Eussians as well as from natives that since this treaty the slave-trade has rather in- creased than diminished, although slaves are no longer sold pub- licly in the open market, as was done when I was in Bukhara. By this treaty it was also provided that the strip of territory on the right bank of the Amu Darya from Kukertli to Meshekli, and thence to the Russian boundary, should be taken from Khiva and transferred to Bukhara; that Russian steamers and other vessels should have the right to navigate the Amu Darya ; that Russians should be allowed to build piers and storehouses on the Bukharan bank, and for the safety of which the Bukharan Government should be responsible ; that all the towns and vil- lages in the Khanate should be open to Russian commerce ; and that Russians should be allowed to travel without molestation anywhere within the Khanate, with no other duty levied than the one of 2\ per cent, ad valorem on goods belonging to Russian subjects, exported or imported ; that Russian merchants should be allowed to send their goods through Bukhara free of transit dues ; that Russian merchants should be allowed to have cara- vanserais and commercial agents in all the towns ; that commer- cial engagements between Russians and Bukharans should be considered sacred ; that Russian subjects should be allowed to exercise all branches of industry permitted by the Shariat, and should be allowed to purchase real property ; that the Buk- haran Government should not permit anyone to arrive from the Russian territory, whatever might be their nationality, unless provided with a special permit from the Russian authorities ; that the Amir should appoint a resident envoy at Tashkent ; and that the Russian Government should be permitted to maintain a resident agent at Bukhara. The Russians have, thus far, made very little use of the rights granted to them by this treaty, for no Russian vessels have as yet sailed on the Amu Darya waters within Bukharan territory ; no increase of Russian commerce has taken place, and no Russian agent has yet been appointed to reside at Bukhara. It cannot be said that the relations between the two countries have been improved by this treaty. On the contrary, during the Kho- kandian war in 1875 the Amir was on the watch for an oppor- tunity to attack the Russians on the side of Samarkand, and 312 TURKISTAH". G-eneral Abramof forbade Eussian caravans going to Bukhara, on the ground that if they did so their safety could not he guaranteed by the Russian Government. The conquest of Bukhara — except for the purpose of getting control over the greatest market iu Central Asia, and of putting an end to an independent, and sometimes troublesome Moham- medan State — will probably not have for the Russians the same advantages as that of Khokand. The agriculture of the country is in poor condition and Mr. Sobolef brings up weighty reasons to prove that the area of cultivable land is being gradually and rapidly diminished by the encroachments of the desert. 1 There is probably no reason to look for the occupation of Bukhara by Russia before the death of thf 1 Amir, whom the Russians, in spite of the loud complaints of his people, will probably continue to maintain upon the throne. THIRD AFGHANISTAN. Russian relations with Afghanistan appear to have begun after Abdurrahman Khan had taken refuge on Russian soil. Abdurrahman before this had requested Russian intervention in Afghanistan, and had promised to submit it to Russian rule. His overtures had been refused ; but at last, finding himself under too strict surveillance in Bukhara, he wrote : ' You know that our country is submitted to English protection. I place my hope in you, because I know very well that the possessions of the White Tsar are much larger than those of the French, German, and English taken together. Going to Vizir and Mashad, and learning there that Iran (Persia) is under the protection of the White Tsar, I came through the steppe of the Tekke Turkomans to Urgentch (Khiva), with the purpose of going on to you.' The reply to this of February 7 (19), 1870, was not received by Abdurrahman, as he had already gone to Samarkand. In this General Kaufmann promised him a good reception, but told him that he was to have no hope of assist- ance against Afghanistan, giving the reason for this as follows: ' The present ruler of Afghanistan has been recognised as the lawful sovereign of that country by England, which is friendly with us, and until he breaks the peace and makes a ' Bulletin of the Imperial Russian Geographical Society, for 1873, vol. ix. p. 259. ABDURRAHMAN KHAN. 313 disturbance on the frontier of Bukhara I have no reason to see in him our enemy.' When Abdurrahman reached Tashkent he made the following new requests : first, to receive 3,000 muskets and seven cannon, even should they be taken from the Bukharans ; second, to form a military organisation of Afghans and Persians who had at previous times come to Bukhara ; third, to obtain the permission of the Amir to establish himself at Kerki or Shirabad, in order to send proclamations to his adherents in Afghanistan ; and, fourth, to be allowed to keep his suite. General Kaufmann refused to assist him in any way, and informed him that any relations with his friends in Afghanistan would be unpleasant to the Eussian authorities ; but that his suite, which consisted of 221 persons, he could retain in Samarkand if he could do so on the money assigned to him. As the money seemed to be insufficient, Abdurrahman sub- sequently dismissed the greater part of his followers. The Foreign Office approved of this decision of General Kaufmann and in a letter of May 16 (28), Mr. Stremovukhof, the Director of the Asiatic Department, suggested that it might be better to send Abdurrahman into the interior of Eussia in order to avoid complications. 'After the friendly exchange of ideas with the English Cabinet with regard to Central Asian affairs, our Government tries to remove anything which, without bringing us any actual advantage, may be a reason for exciting distrust.' Greneral Kaufmann considered this a good opportunity to remove any misunderstanding, and at the same time to enter into friendly relations with the Amir of Kabul, and accordingly on March 10 (22), 1870, wrote to Shir Ali about his reception of Abdurrahman Khan. In this letter he said : ' The domains of the White Tsar in Turkistan, and the lands now subject to you, do not have a common boundary. We are separated by the Khanate of Bukhara, the ruler of which, Seid Mozaffar, has concluded a peace with Eussia, and is in the friendship and under the protection of the great Emperor of all the Eussias. Therefore between us there cannot be any misunderstanding, and we, although distant neighbours, ought to live in peace and union. I have no intention to intervene in the internal affairs of Afghanistan, both because you are under the protection of the English Government- which, as you well know, is in friend- 314 TURKISTAN. ship and concord with the Government of the White Tsar — and because I do not see on your part any intervention in the affairs of Bukhara. Afghanistan and Bukhara ought to have nothing in common, and each of these two countries ought to live its own life without troubling itself about what its neighbour is doing.' * This letter of General Kaufmann seems to have been in full accord with the opinion expressed to him almost on the same day, March 18 (30), by Prince Gortchakof, that, in view of the noticeable change in public opinion consequent on the frank exchange of views between the Ministry and the London Cabinet, it was indispensable to take measures for the contradiction of any false reports which might circulate in Central Asia. Baron Brunnow, however, in a despatch of March 18 (30), con- sidered that there should be no direct relations between General Kaufmann and the Amir of Afghanistan, and that all such des- patches should be sent through St. Petersburg. This General Kaufmann considered an infringement of the full powers which he had received from the Emperor, and he therefore paid no attention to the suggestion. In the meantime a rebellion broke out in Afghanistan because the Amir was thought by many of his subjects to be too subservient to the English. Infor- mation about the course of events was received by the Russians both through their mission at Teheran and through the corre- spondence of the friends and the adherents of Abdurrahman. After this insurrection was put down, about the end of August 1870, General Kaufmann received an answer to his letter. In this Shir Ali Khan said : ' When I received from you the promise that the Russian Government would neither secretly nor openly by means of an army intervene in the affairs of Afghanistan, and that the enemies of Afghanistan would not receive help from you, I was greatly gladdened.' He then stated that on receipt of General Kaufmann's letter he had consulted with the Viceroy of India, and had forbidden his officials to mix in the affairs of his neighbours or to trouble them, or to allow any armed parties to cross the frontier. i All this,' the Amir added, ' was done not by me alone, but on con- sultation with the representative of the English Government, 1 This, as well as much else with regard to Afghanistan, is quoted from Terentief, id., pp. 154-191. See also 'Parliamentary Papers on Central Asia,' No. 2 (1873). ISKENDER KHAN. 315 the Viceroy of India, who very well understands the friendly relations existing between his Government and the Kussian Tsar. From my conversation with him I am fully convinced of the friendship of the two Governments, and I am now assured thaf quiet will reign in my empire.' It is worthy of remark that all the letters of General Kaufmann to Shir Ali are accom- panied by an English translation, for the greater convenience of the Indian authorities, to whom it is expected they will be transmitted. A further correspondence was called out by the desire of Iskender Khan, the nephew of the Amir, to return to Kabul. 1 General Kaufmann communicated this to the Amir, and asked him to pardon and to receive back this prince. To this the Amir replied favourably, and General Kaufmann in his turn congratulated him on the close of civil war in Afghanistan. Iskender Khan, however, did not return to Afghanistan, but was allowed to go to St. Petersburg, where he was given the rank of lieutenant-colonel, and attached to the Hussars of the Guard, with a salary of 4,000 rubles. His position there, how- ever, was peculiar, he not being considered regularly in the service or capable of advancement. To the annoyances of this position was added an unpleasantness arising out of the treatment of his follower, Eamdil Khan, who had been received as a cadet in the convoy of the Emperor. At an inspection Eamdil Khan, who had done good service in Turkistan and had been decorated, was struck by the adjutant. Iskender Khan took the part of his friend and demanded from the adjutant a public apology before the soldiers. There was an altercation, and Iskender sent a challenge to the commander of the convoy, who refused to accept it ; and Iskender then declared that the first time he met him in the palace he would insult him. For this he was placed in the guard-house for six days, while Eam- dil Khan was also arrested and sent to the Caucasus, though he was subsequently recalled. Iskender Khan immediately resigned, entered into negotiations with the British Embassy, and went to London, where he was well received by the English i Iskender Khan had been driven out of Afghanistan during the intestine troubles, and had put his Afghan followers into the service of the Amir of Bukhara. Owing to the treatment which he met with in that country he had gone over to the Russians just before the Samarkand campaign, as I have men- tioned on p. 241, vol. i. 316 TURKESTAN. Government and assigned a small pension, on which he is still living in England. With Tskender Khan's family influence and his remarkable capacity, it is to be regretted that the Eussians did not better appreciate how useful he could be to them. The authorities at Tashkent have been considerably annoyed by the disturbances in Badakshan, over which place the Eussians had, by their arrangement with England, acknowledged the suzerainty of Shir Ali. The natives of that country were un- willing to submit to the Afghans, and since Afghan troops were sent there in 1873 there have been several attempts at rebellion, caused in great part by the former ruler of the country, Jahandar Shah, who had been dethroned by his nephew, Mahmud Shah. Abdurrahman Khan has, since he came to Samarkand, married a daughter of Jahandar Shah, and Shir Ali has given one of his daughters in marriage to Mahmud Shah ; so that it is the old feud being fought over again in this limited territory. Jahandar Shah took as the bases for his attempts Shugnan and Kulab ; but it is said that since the failure of his last expedition in August 1874 he has taken refuge among the Turkomans. 1 FOURTH — KASHGAR. Yakub Khan, the present Amir of Kashgar, was a native of Piskent, near Tashkent, and had signalised himself in 1853 by being for a time an officer in Ak-Masjid at the time of its capture by the Eussians. In 1864, about the time Tashkent was taken, he went to Kashgar as one of the lieutenants of Buzurg Khan Hodja, a descendant of the ancient Hodja rulers, who, taking advantage of the insurrection just beginning, desired to re-establish the realm of his ancestors. The facts of his career are well known ; how, after using Buzurg Khan as long as the shadow of his name was necessary, he threw him off and made himself the sovereign of the country ; how he extended his rule to the eastward by the capture of Aksu, Turfan, and Urumtsi ; how he took in succession the titles of Atalyk Grhazi, and Badau- let, and in the end that of Amir, conferred upon him by the 1 Terentief says, p. 189: 'It is to be hoped that these rebellions -will be periodically repeated, and that the disorders in the other provinces will compol the Amir of Kabul to withdraw his troops from Badakshan.' EAELIEST RELATIONS WITH KASHGAR. 317 Turkish Sultan in 1873 ; and how, from a mere adventurer, he has become the most powerful of Asiatic monarchs. For a long- time the Russians refused to recognise him, that is to say, they made no treaties with him and refused to allow his envoys to come to the Court at St. Petersburg, although naturally they did not abstain from those slight relations which generals on the border are obliged to maintain with neigh- bouring powers. As Yakub Khan disliked the Russians, he closed his country to Russian trade. No merchant, therefore, ventured to Kashgar, until in 1868 the merchant Khludof, a brave and enterprising fellow, started out from Vierny with a small caravan of goods. His caravan was attacked soon after crossing the border, and he was obliged to return. He then sent some presents to Yakub Khan, and requested the admission of his caravan. The presents were accepted, and the attack on the caravan was explained as being because the authorities had no official knowledge of its character. Khludof then obtained from the Governor of Semiretch a letter to Yakub Khan certifying that the venture was purely a com- mercial one. This obtained for him the desired permission, although the caravan was detained on the road. Khludof was received by Yakub Khan, and by his boldness and straight- forwardness produced such an impression upon him that he agreed to send his nephew, Shadi Mirza, to Tashkent to con- clude a commercial treaty. The construction of Fort Naryn in the same year (1868) had, perhaps, some influence in producing this change in the views of Yakub Khan to favour Bukhara, and therefore hasten on the construction of the fortress. All of the Naryn country had been recognised as Russian territory by the treaty of Pekin in 1860, but it was first occupied in 1863, when a Russian detachment destroyed the Khokandian fort of Kurtka, which had been built within the Russian boundaries. Shadi Mirza together with Khludof arrived at Vierny in August 1868. He brought a letter from Yakub Khan to General Kaufmann, who had just gone on leave to St. Petersburg. For this reason, as well as because the letter of Yakub Khan to General Kaufmann was not expressed in polite terms, Shadi Mirza was not allowed to go on to Tashkent. With regard to the accusation of hindering trad i Yakub 3 1 8 TURKISTAN. Khan wrote : ' The land of the great Russian Tsar is great and broad, and full of all the sorts of wise men and artificers that there are in the seven great lands. Our land in comparison to yours is a poor ruin. Now, after the destruction of the Chinesb power, during six years all has been destroyed that was good and that which commerce had created, so that nothing remains of it all. This was the reason why your rich merchants were not allowed here, for they could find nothing here but ruins.' General Kolpakofsky informed Yakub Khan of the depar- ture of General Kaufmann, mentioned the breach of polite form in his letter, and demanded the surrender of two Kirghiz robbers, Omar and Kaitchi, and the return of some prisoners they had cap- tured. The letter of General Kolpakofsky was sent to Kashgar by Captain Reinthal, who was the first officer that penetrated there. In spite of renewed interviews with the Khan, in which he was treated with great politeness, he was unable to succeed in inducing him to come to an agreement for protecting trade. Yakub Khan, however, consented to send out an expedition to the settlement of the Kirghiz tribe, and captured the guilty parties, although he kept them in Kashgar as a kind of guarantee for the return of Shadi Mirza. The Russian captives he sent on to Vierny. General Kaufmann, on receiving a report of what had taken place, granted Shadi Mirza permission to come on to St. Petersburg for conference with him. In answer to a letter about preventing trade, General Kaufmann insisted that com- mercial relations should be entered into, and proposed a treaty of exactly the same character as those concluded with Bukhara and Khokand. Shadi Mirza was not, however, received by the Emperor, and returned to Kashgar in January, 1869. In April a letter was received at Tashkent, in which Yakub Khan thanked General Kaufmann for the presents he had received, and promised to take care of the Russian merchants on condition that the Russian troops should not pass the frontier. He said : ' For the passage of caravans and merchants, quiet and safety are needed ; and for this it is necessary to fix a boundary, so that merchants may come either from Russia or from other nations.' Knowing that Yakub Khan would not be disposed to respect the treaties made by the Chinese, General Kaufmann in his OCCUPATION OF KULDJA. 319 reply, insisted that the Russians were right in constructing the fort at Naryn, as it was on ground which had been made theirs by treaties with his predecessor the Chinese Emperor _, and although since that time the country had passed into his hands, that fact could have no influence upon the boundary which had once been established. He offered, however, to appoint a commission to fix it accurately, and again demanded the return of one of the copies of the commercial treaty signed. To this letter no answer was received. The conditions pro- posed were not agreed to, and the merchants met with the same hindrances and obstacles as previously. Meanwhile Yakub Khan endeavoured to enter into friendly relations with the Dungans and the Tarantchis, but his efforts seemed to be without result. He then changed his plans, and in the beginning of 1872 made war on the Dungans, the pretext being about the Torgots or Kalmuks who had been living in the valley of the river Yulduz, and over whom Yakub Khan claimed to have suzerain rights. The Dungans at first had the ad- vantage, and occupied the cities of Karashar, Kutche and Sairam, but hearing of Yakub Khan's approach, they abandoned them after pillaging the merchants and murdering many of the in- habitants. The forces of Yakub Khan advanced, laid siege to Turfan, and, after a four months' siege, took it in July 1870. The Russians, fearing that the object of Yakub Khan was the conquest of the province of Kuldja, thought it better at least to keep a watch upon his movements, and therefore occupied the Muzart pass. In spite of the difficulties of the pass, Yakub Khan had ordered that all the caravans coming into the valley of the Hi should take this way, and had sent a force of men to improve it, establishing in addition a picket at the southern side. As in spite of the Russian occupation of this pass, Yakub Khan would easily have been able to take possession of the valley of Kuldja, difficulties with Kirghiz marauders were made an excuse, and Kuldja was occupied by the Russians in 1871. Yakub Khan, somewhat alarmed by the advance of the Russians, as well as by the position of affairs in the Chinese provinces of Han-su and Shen-si, took precautionary measures by fortifying the town of Aksu, and sending Akhrar Khan on an embassv to Calcutta. 320 TURKISTAN. Direct relations with Yakub Khan having been broken off for so long, General Kaufmann, having lost all hope of persuading him, resolved to make use of the Khan of Khokand. He there- fore, as I have already said, proposed to Khudayar Khan to use his supposed suzerain rights over Yakub Bek, expel him, and add that country to his dominions. Khudayar Khan having refused to lend himself to the plans of the Governor-General, all that could be done was to have him act as mediator. At the request of the Russians, therefore, Khudayar Khan sent Sarymsak Udaitchi with a letter to Yakub Khan, counselling him to make peace with Eussia, as the Russians would easily be able to over- throw him. Yakub Khan, while receiving the envoy with respect, insisted upon being treated as an equal, and took up that tone in his reply. In answer to the advice of holding friendly and commercial relations with the Russians, he said : ' The Russians that have come here look at these localities and become acquainted with the state of the country, and there- fore it is better to forbid their coming, for they are a restless and crooked-minded people.' Before the receipt of this insult- ing letter, another messenger had gone from Khokand with a letter from General Kaufmann, himself, who, after mentioning all the unfriendly actions of Yakub Khan, and all the measures taken by the Russians for friendly intercourse, pointed out to him the necessity of following the example of Bukhara and Khokand in their relations with Russia, if he did not wish for an unavoidable and severe punishment. The threat contained in this letter was in earnest. The Russians had decided upon war, if nothing else could bring Yakub Khan to reason, but while preparations were being made, Mirza Hakim was induced to write a letter to a certain Akhrar Khan, a Khokandian formerly high in service under Khudayar Khan, who had been for some years living in Kashgar, inform- ing him of the preparations, and advising a more sensible mode of conduct. Akhrar Khan, by direction of Yakub Khan, replied that the Governor-General would do very well if he carried on friendly relations by himself, but that if he undertook to manage affairs through Khudayar Khan he could accomplish nothing, and further relations would not lead to the desired end ; ' although the Badaulet well knows the might and greatness of Russia, still, as a brave man, he hopes in God and will never refuse to fight, COMMERCIAL TREATY WITH KASHGAR. 321 for he does not fear death, and considers it a good fortune to die for the faith.' To the letter of General Kaufmann Yakub Khan replied personally. He said : ' The last envoy who brought your letter was not a Eussian, not because there were no Russians to send, but because you seemed to think Khokand and Bukhara only worthy of this honour. If the Russians believed in my good wishes they would send me one of their men, which woidd show me their kind intention, and which I would consider a proof of their good disposition towards me. If your words be really an expression of good will towards me, let some one come to us of more account than your merchants. Send me some Russian, or even a Tashkent Sart, though he be only a shepherd, and I will send back to } 7 ou an envoy of my own.' In this way Yakub Khan compelled the Russians to take the first step. General Kaufmann then resolved to despatch a mission, of which Baron Kaulbars was the head, and to which were attached an engineer, a topographer, and a merchant, the duties of the last being to study the commercial capabilities of the country. In the meantime, however, the military prepa- rations were proceeded with. Bodies of troops were stationed on the road from Lake Issyk Kul to the south, and a military road through the mountains was completed as soon as possible. All the necessary supplies and munitions were sent to Fort Naryn, near the Kashgar frontier, where they still remain. Yakub Khan at first received the Russian embassy very well, but when he found that the military preparations still continued, he soon changed his tone to one much more threat- ening and warlike ; and it was not until the advance of the troops had been stojmed that he consented to sign the com- mercial treaty. Mr. Kolesnikof, the merchant connected with the embassy, returned home through the Terek Davan pass and Khokand in order to pursue his commercial investigations, while the rest of the embassy took the usual route by Fort JSTaryn. The con- clusion of this treaty was marked by an amusing instance of flattery. The treaty was actually signed on June 10 (22), 1872, but Baron Kaulbars managed to have it dated on May 21 (June 2), the day of St. Constantine, and immediately wrote to General Kaufmann that as a mark of especial goodwill Yakub VOL. II. y 3£2 TUKKISTAN. Khan had insisted on signing the treaty on the day of his (General Kaufmann's) patron saint. Such a despatch was, how- ever, a little stronger than General Kaufmann cared to send to St. Petersburg, and the wording of it was so altered that it read, 6 out of special regard for the Emperor of Kussia, the Amir had signed the treaty on the saint's day of the Grand Duke Constantine, the Emperor's brother.' This treaty differed in many respects from those previously concluded with Khokand and Bukhara. Yakub Khan was much pleased at the conclusion of the affair, and that he had now been recognised as an independent sovereign, and asked to be allowed as a still greater favour to send an envoy to St. Petersburg who should be presented to the Emperor. ' This,' he added, ' will be for me a great mercy, that you should lead me, a man of nothing, to the sun, and that to my share should fall a drop from that great sea.' General Kaufmann consented to this request, and the Mullah Tarap Hodja, the first Khokan- dian envoy, went to St. Petersburg in the summer of 1873, was received by the Emperor, was taken to the reviews, and was treated with great consideration. In spite of the new commercial treaty, however, the course of matters did not much change in Kashgar as far as Russian merchants were concerned. In 1873 Mr. Pupyshef fitted out a caravan which he sent to Kashgar under the charge of his clerk Somof. The caravan reached the town of Kashgar in safety, but Somof was not allowed to go farther than the cara- vanserai, and his trading expeditions to Yarkand and Khokand were entirely forbidden. Yakub Khan bought the greater part of the goods for himself, and allowed the merchants of Kashgar to buy only one-third. Besides this, Somof was obliged to wait for more than two months without being paid, and it was only in the middle of October that he received his pay in Chinese yambs (gold coins), at the rate of 128 rubles each, while the real commercial value was only 115 rubles. In this way, for goods which were worth 48,000 rubles he received only 33,000 rubles, besides paying the duties which were exacted from him. On the return of Somof to Tashkent explanations of his conduct were demanded from Yakub Khan, who, however, denied all the allegations of Soinof, maintaining that this merchant had not in any way been opposed, and but had full power of COMMERCIAL RELATIONS. 323 going where he pleased, and that he himself did not buy any of the goods, but that one of the custom-house agents had bought them in his own name, thinking that he might get them cheaper. At the same time the Kashgarian ruler sent four merchants to Tashkent who had known the progress of the whole affair. The commission in Tashkent, after having made an investi- gation, found that the loss actually sustained by Mr. Pupyshef was 12,000 rubles, and Yakub Khan was therefore requested to pay this sum. He immediately expressed his willingness to pay not only the 1 2,000 rubles but even ten times more. ' Our Government,' he wrote, ' is young, mistakes are possible, and they should not be too severely punished.' Months, however, elapsed before the money arrived. In the meantime the English mission of Mr. Forsyth had been in Kashgar, and Yakub Khan felt that he could take even a stronger tone. The roads leading to Russia were well fortified, and Bek Kuli, his able son, had returned after a successful expedition against the Chinese. He had received the title of Amir from the Sultan of Turkey, he had declared himself his vassal, and had begun coining money with the inscription ' Saltan Abdul Aziz.' He now wrote again to the Russian authorities, still promising to send the money soon, but adopting a very lofty style : ' I have great desire,' he wrote, ' to live in peace with my brother the Emperor of Russia, and as I have heard that his daughter is married to an English prince, I desire to send a mission to congratulate him.' Notwithstanding the ill-success of Somof's caravan, the merchant Morozof sent to Kashgar in the summer of 1874 a caravan with goods to the value of 25,000 rubles. As if to prove what the Kashgarians had maintained, that Somof's" com- plaints were ill-founded, the caravan of Morozof was very well received. What goods were not sold to private individuals were bought by the treasurer of Yakub Khan. The members of the caravan, both Russian and Kirghiz, were allowed during the seventy days of their stay to go freely through the town in their own costume. They suffered not the slightest hindrance and all of their complaints were immediately redressed. 1 In 1 The information about Morozof s caravan is taken from a letter in the ' Golos,' of November (12) 24, 187-4, written from Semipalatinsk on October (10) 22. In a previous letter, the Semipalatinsk correspondent gives currency to the rumour y 2 324 TURKISTAN. spite of this the relations of Kashgar to Russia are no better, and the Russians seem determined in some way or other to find an excuse for attacking the country. The troubles about trade being such in 1874, General Kauf- mann despatched to Kashgar Colonel Reinthal, the same who was there in 1368, nominally to take Yakub Khan some presents on the part of the Governor-General, but really, if he found it possible, to discuss the question of appointing a resident commercial agent in Kashgar, he being the person fixed upon for the permanent appointment. His reception there was such that he thought it imprudent to bring up the question in official interviews ; while in private conversations with the Kashgar officials — who had full information from Tashkent of his in- tention — he utterly denied that any such purpose was intended. The Russians had always proposed by their commercial treaties to secure to themselves the right of having consuls or com- mercial agents in the surrounding countries, but unfortunately they had rendered this word by caravan-bashi, which really means the ' leader of the caravan,' a man of no more real im- portance than the conductor of a railway train. The Kash- garians, however, held the Russians to the strict letter of the treaty. They knew what caravan-bashi meant, and they were indisposed to let a merchant or political agent reside there under this name. Reinthal therefore returned without a shadow of success. This was probably the reason of the projected campaign against Kashgar in the spring of 1875, which cir- cumstances turned into a war against Khokand. A curious incident should perhaps be mentioned here. In the early part of 1875 a woman named Satara Patcha, a half- sister or cousin of Yakub Khan, who had been living for some time at Constantinople, where she had been received with honour by the Sultana Valide, went through Odessa and Russia that the complaints of Russian merchants in Kashgar and other countries are frequently unfounded, the pretended losses having been invented by the clerks and agents to conceal their own peculations. He is careful, however, not to vouch for the truth of this statement, and in the case of the caravan of Pupy- shef, I have every reason to believe that the complaints were well founded. It may be remarked that the news in regard to Central Asia given in the ' Golos,' by the correspondent at Semipalatinsk, never agrees with the, statements coming from Tashkent. In both cases the letters are written by officials, but Semipala- tinsk is in the province of Western Siberia, and the correspondents belong to b)stile camps. EFFORTS TO NEGOTIATE AT ST. PETERSBURG. 325 on her way to Kashgar. By the permission of the Ministry of Finance she was allowed to take the presents from the Sultan to Yakub Khan and her other luggage through the Custom-house without duty. She went through Siberia and arrived in safetj as far as Kopul, where she was arrested by Russian officials sent from Yierny, who searched her baggage, took from her ail her letters and papers, and detained her for some time in Vierny under arrest. Both in 1874 and 1875 strong efforts were made to prove the complicity of Yakub Khan in the disturbances in Khokand, and Seid Mahmud Yakub Khan, who had been for some time a Kashgarian envoy at Constantinople, was refused an official audience until a telegram could be obtained from General Kaufmann that nothing compromising had been discovered about the conduct of the Kashgarian Government. This envoy had before been in Constantinople as well as in India, and was the one who accompanied Mr. Forsyth's party from India to Kashgar. He professed the readiness of Yakub Khan to make a postal treaty and to accept a Russian consul, but the main object of his mission was to secure the freedom of a young girl, a relative of the Khan living in Tashkent, whom a great partisan of the Russians, Said Azim, had endeavoured to marry without her parents' consent. The Russians endeavoured to put him off by referring him to General Kaufmann, but it was only after the Emperor, on his reception, had signified his wish that he should go to Tashkent to meet General Kaufmann, and had promised him a safe conduct — for he was originally a native of Tashkent — that he promised to go. He went, met General Kaufmann on the road, and succeeded in obtaining the release of the girl. 1 During the last few years the idea has obtained some cur- rency in Russia that it would be well to aid the Chinese to re-occupy Kashgar, or even to conquer it by Russian troops and hand it over to the Chinese. It is thought that it would be far more advantageous to have as a neighbour the Chinese Government, which acknowledges treaty obligations and with which negotiations are more easily managed, than the small Uzbek principality under Yakub Khan. Persons who think this, believe also that Russia should not extend her frontiers beyond the Tian Shan, which forms a natural and excellent 1 See vol. i. pp. 99, 100. 326 TURKISTAN. boundary. Against this opinion some objections have been raised, chiefly on the ground that for many reasons it would be impolitic to introduce Chinese rule again into that region. When Kashgar is taken, therefore, unless there be a strong Chinese army in the immediate neighbourhood, it will probably remain in Eussian hands. FIFTH KTJLDJA AND TARBAGATAI. "With regard to the circumstances which led to the occupa- tion of Kuldja, and concerning the present tenure of that country, sufficient has been said in Chapter XII. It will be remembered that the province is only held temporarily by the Russians, who have promised to restore it to China as soon as a sufficient Chinese force is brought to restore order. The Chinese force has not yet appeared, although the rumours of its approach have been frequent. One cause of its delay, it is said, has been that it has been obliged to stop en route to sow and reap sufficient grain to support it. The difficult cir- cumstances under which the inhabitants of the province are now placed — owing allegiance to the Chinese Government, and yet being under the temporary rule of the Russians — together with the interests of Russia itself, have compelled the administrators of the province several times to propose that the status of Kuldja be once for all settled ; but thus far their propositions for the permanent occupation of the country or for its abandon- ment, have been rejected by the Foreign Office, and the status of indecision has been maintained. It is now, however, scarcely probable that Russia will relinquish the province, as her interests are greatly against such a step. In any case she will hardly do so until Kashgar shall have been occupied by Chinese troops. Between Kuldja and Siberia is an enclave which is known by the name of Tarbagatai, the chief town of which is Tchugutchak, close to the Russian frontier. Here the Dungan insurrection was speedily put down, and the Chinese have for some years been in full possession. A new Dzian-Bziun Zhun was ap- pointed in 1871, and since he has been on the spot, relations between him and the Russian commanders have been at times somewhat strained. This is owing in part to his claiming authority over Kuldja, and endeavouring to instil into the minds THE DZIAN-DZIUN. 327 of the inhabitants that the Kussians will soon abandon the country, and that the Chinese will return ; and in part to the peculiar conditions under which diplomatic relations are carried on. The province of Semiretch is annexed to Turkistan, although neither by the character of the country or by that of the inhabitants has it anything in common with the other parts of that region. General Kaufmann, as Governor-General of Turkistan, has full powers for diplomatic relations, and is there- fore in frequent correspondence with the Dzian-Dziun from the side of Vierny and Kuldja. On the other hand the Governor- General of Western Siberia, who is more nearly interested in the proceedings of the Dzian-Dziun, has no full diplomatic powers and is obliged to conduct his affairs — except in minor matters — through the Foreign Office and the ministers atPekin. The natural result of this is that a state of confusion arises, which the Dzian-Dziun occasionally turns to his advantage. Sft 8 TURKISTAN. CHAPTER XV. THE KHIYAN CAMPAIGN AND ITS CONSEQUENCES. Early relations of Eussia -with Khiva — Expedition of Bekovitch — That of Perovsky — Embassies — Recent relations- -Expedition of 1873 — Statement of grievances — Eeal reasons for the expedition — Its plan — The Turkistan column — "Want of provisions — Attitude of Bukhara — Change of route — Khalata — Distress in the desert — Passage of the Amu — The failure of Colonel Markozof — The Mangyshlak column — March of the Orenburg column — It takes Khiva by storm — Simultaneous surrender to General Kaufmann — The Khan reinstated — The Divan — Foraging forbidden — Emancipation of the Persian slaves — Surveys — Reasons for the Turkoman campaign — Butchery of the Turkomans — Story of an eye-witness — The treaty of peace — Official explanation of it — The Amu Darya district — Further expeditious against the Turkomans in 1873, 187-1, and 1875— Exploring expeditions — Navigation of the Amu Darya — The Trans-Caspian district — General Lomakin's expeditions — The Turkomans — Affairs with Persia — Caravans. The Russians came into communication with Khiva in the early part of the seventeenth century. As early as 1620 there were diplomatic relations, and about the same time the Cossacks of the Yaik or Ural, who w r ere in the habit of robbing every- body they met, plundered some Khivan merchants, and having found out from them about their city and its unguarded state, o^iickly went through the steppe and actually took the town of Urgentch. They loaded a thousand carts with spoils, and carried off nearly a thousand women. Their success proved their ruin, for on their way home they were attacked and cut off from water ; they were compelled to abandon everything, and were killed nearly to a man, and the memory of their exploit lives only in tradition. A second expedition of the Cossacks had the same fate, and a third fared even worse. Being caught by a severe winter the Cossacks lost the road, and were obliged from hunger to kill and eat each other, while the survivors were captured and enslaved by the Khivans. EXPEDITION OF PRINCE BEKOVITCH. 329 The fourth campaign is the well-known one of Prince Bekovitch-Tcherkasski, in the time of Peter the Great. It seems that in 1700 an ambassador from the Khan Sha- niaz came to Peter the Great and begged him to take the Khivan nation under Eussian protection, which he agreed to do, and confirmed this consent in 1703 to the new Khan, Aran Mohammed. No actual result however, followed, until in 1713 a certain Hadji Nefes, a Turkoman, came to Astrakhan, where he became converted, and told many stories of the gold which was to be found along the valley of the Amu Darya, and how the Uzbeks had closed the old channel of the stream which had flowed into the Caspian, and suggested to the Eussians to break down the dam and restore the river to its former channel. At the same time, Peter the Great received information from Prince Gagarin, the Governor of Siberia, that in Little •Bukhara there was gold sand. The mines in the Ural and in Siberia had not yet been discovered, and this information excited at once the interest of the great monarch, who ordered two expeditions to be fitted out, one from Siberia into Little Bukhara, and another to Khiva under Prince Bekovitch. Prince Bekovitch occupied three years with surveys of the eastern shore of the Caspian and the establishment of various fortified positions, and it was not until June 1717 that he moved over the steppe towards Khiva with an army of 3,500 men, 6 guns, and a train of 200 camels and 300 horses. When about a hundred miles from that city on the banks of the Amu Darya, he had a decisive battle with the Khivans, which lasted three days and ended in their complete defeat. The Khan surrendered himself entirely to the mercy of the Eussians, and after obtaining the full confidence of Prince Bekovitch, proposed to him to go and take actual possession of Khiva, after dividing his army into several parts for the greater convenience of provisioning it. This was no sooner done than the Khivans treacherously fell upon the separate portions of the expedition, massacred them almost without exception, and sent the head of Prince Bekovitch as a present to the Amir of Bukhara, who, however, refused to accept it. Even this disaster did not prevent an ambassador of Peter's, the Italian Florio Beneveni, from penetrating to Khiva and being well received there. This was in 1725. a few months 330 TTJRKISTAK after Peter's death. Subsequently a large number of Eussian embassies visited the country, but none of them were ever able to bring the Khivan Khan to terms, or to induce him to stop capturing and enslaving Eussians, or even to free those who were already in bonds there. The disorderly state of the steppe induced General Perov- sky in 1829 to undertake a new expedition against Khiva, with 5.000 men, 22 guns, and a train in which, besides horses, there were 10,000 camels, and as many as 2,000 Kirghiz to take care of them. This expedition was, as is well-known, a com- plete failure, in consequence of the ruinous idea that, on account of the want of water in the steppe, it would be easier to make the campaign in winter, and that Eussian soldiers had nothing to fear from the cold. 1 The march, accordingly, was begun at the end of autumn, but unfortunately winter set in sooner, and was much more severe than usual. There was considerable trouble in furnishing the camels, and those that were furnished did not live, so t at Perovsky was obliged to retreat when he had got only half-way. The retreat was awful : the provision supplies had not arrived, the transports were lost in the constant snowstorms and whirlwinds, and the expedition returned without seeing the enemy, but beaten by the cold, with but one-third of its original number of men, and those in a most wretched and miserable condition, and with only 1,000 of the 10,000 camels which had been taken with it. Lest the Khivans might take heart by the failure of Perovsky's expedition, it was resolved at once to send another. Before, however, the arrangements for it had been completed, the Khivans saw their danger, and in the summer of 1840 sent an envoy to Eussia with 418 Eussian captives, and the Khan issued an order forbidding the capture and purchase of Eus- sians. The next year Nikiforof went to Khiva as Eussian envoy ; but, although he awed the Khan and all his officials into a state of complete deference, he was obliged to depart without accomplishing anything. In 1842 another Eussian envoy — Danilefsky — was sent to Khiva, and succeeded in in- ducing the Khan to sign a treaty promising not to engage in 1 Some Russian accounts ascribe this plan, as well as the defective arrange- ment?, to a settled desire on the part of the chief of staff, a Pole, to ensure the failure of the expedition, in revenge for the Russian acts in Poland. KHIVAN HOSTILITIES. 331 hostilities against Eussia, or to commit acts of robbery and piracy. The only real result, however, of this mission was the extension of the geographical knowledge of Central Asia. Every article of the treaty remained a dead letter. The very next year Khiva protected the famous brigand Kenisar, and soon after sent emissaries among the Kirghiz, and even sent forces against the new Kussian forts in the steppe ; and in 1858 Colonel Ignatief — now General, and Ambassador at Constantinople — on speaking of the treaty made with Danilef- sky, was told by the Khivans that nobody believed such a docu- ment, and that they were unable to find it in their archives. In the same year Captain Butakof suddenly appeared with a steamer in front of Kungrad and excited great terror among the population. Although the Khivans from that time on did not stop their old habit of capturing and enslaving the Russians on the banks of the Caspian, and of pillaging and enforcing tribute from the Kirghiz who were under Russian subjection, and stirring them up to mutiny, yet the attention of Russia was so much taken up with the territory on the Syr Darya, and the strengthen- ing of their position in that region, that they were unable to insist on the Khan of Khiva complying with their demands. The letters of the Governor-General were either un- answered, or messages were returned which were considered insolent, and when in 1869 and 1870 the Khivans were accused of aiding the rebellion of the Kirghiz, 1 and of committing many depredations on the Russian post routes, the patience of the 1 With regard to this accusation General Tchernaief, in the ' EussH Mir ' of February (2) 14, 1875, made the following remark :— ' The Khivans did not excite the Kirghiz to rebellion, on the contrary, they were made to rebel by the intro- duction of the new regulations composed under the supervision of the Ministry of War, the liberal and humane aims of which somehow always meet a strange fate. So it was in the present instance. Instead of the expected gratitude of the popu- lation for the introduction of the humane and liberal regulations, the only reply was rebellion. ' When Cossack detachments were sent out to put down these disturbances, the Kirghiz threw the blame on the distant Khivans, and the officials accepted these excuses to cover their own mistakes. In this way the idea grew up at St. Peters- burg of the instigation of the Kirghiz by the Khivans, who had no thought for foreign undertakings when they could scarcely maintain themselves at home against the Turkomans. We must remember, too, this fact, that when we are quiet our neighbours are quiet, but as soon as we excite the discontent of our own Kirghiz, some of our neighbours are immediately found to be to blame.' 332 TURKISTAN. Government became exhausted. It was resolved that some means must be taken to put an end to this state of things. P\>r this, however, time was necessary, and owing to the difficulties in reaching Khiva, which had proved so formidable to other expeditions, it was necessary to send out various preliminary expeditions to survey the roads over the steppe. During the summers of 1871 and 1872 the part of the -Kyzyl Kum lying to the north of Bukhara was explored by the Eussian surveying parties almost to the Khivan limits, and for some years also small detachments were sent from Kazala, and the country as far as Min Bulak, and the Bukan-Tau mountains was carefully investigated. The Governor-General of Orenburg also sent detachments to explore the country south of the Emba. On the side of the Caucasus the Eussians in 1869 established a fort and a naval station on the bay of Krasnovodsk, 1 and subsequently another at Tchikishlar at the mouth of the Attrek ; and in 1871-2 expeditions were sent, nominally to explore the old bed of the Oxus, but really to in- vestigate the road to Khiva to as great a distance as possible. These expeditions brought the Khan for a while to reason, and in the beginning of 1872 he sent embassies to Fort Alexandrofsky and to Orenburg, thinking to establish good relations with the Governor of Orenburg and with the Lieu- tenant of the Caucasus, and thus gain friends against the administration of Tashkent, which he seemed to think inde- pendent of the others. The Government consented to deal with him on two conditions : first, that he should immediately free all Eussian prisoners in Khiva, as well as the Kirghiz held there ; and secondly, that he should give satisfactory explana- tions to the Governor-General of Turkistan about the letters received from him. These conditions were, however, refused by the Khan. ' However great, therefore,' says the ' Invalid,' in its official explanation of the causes of the expedition, ' Eussia's patience and love of peace, they must have their limits. The dignity and interests of the State do not allow For another Eussian view of the relations of the Kirghiz to Khiva see Appendix V. The disturbed state of the Kirghiz steppe seems to have been somewhat ex- aggerated, at least in 1873. Mr. MacGahan crossed the Kyzyl Kum without difficulty, and met with no opposition until he came to the Russian outposts. 1 See Appendix V. EEAL REASONS OF KHIVAN CAMPAIGN. 333 that the insignificant ruler of a half barbarous nation should dare with impunity to disturb the peace and liberty of our subjects and the safety of trade, and insolently reject all our efforts for establishing good relations with him. Mohammed Eahim Khan, by his weakness and by the obstinacy of his advisers, has himself called the tempest down on his country. The final refusal by Khiva to fulfil our demands renders it necessary to enforce them by other means, and show this Khanate that the steppes which surround it cannot protect it from deserved punishment.' But there were other reasons than these which had their influence in bringing about the Khivan expedition. 1 It had become almost impossible to conceal the maladmini- stration of Turkistan from the authorities at St. Petersburg. Indiscreet persons sometimes wrote letters to St. Petersburg newspapers when some more glaring fact came to the public notice, and the Ministry of War, which had the supervision of the Government of the province, occasionally asked questions which were exceedingly awkward to answer. At the same time the financial condition of the province gave rise to apprehensions at St. Petersburg. People were beginning to say that Turkis- tan was not worth the money that was spent in maintaining it, and especially was this the case when it became known that the deficits in the budgets were constantly increasing. Attacks were made on General Kaufmann in high circles at St. Peters- burg, and his position became somewhat wavering. Indeed, a paper by General Tchernaief, on the administration and financial condition of Turkistan, was considered of such con- sequence that it was shown to the Emperor by the Minister of Finance, and created such a strong impression on him, that General Kaufmann found great difficulty in replying satisfac- torily to it. It was desirable, therefore, to do something which would in a measure divert the attention of the public from the adminis- tration of Turkistan, and excite, if possible, the feeling of the country in support of General Kaufmann. Nothing seemed easier for this purpose than a new war, and though an expedi- 1 After the vivid picture of the Khivan expedition given by Mr. MacGahan, I should hesitate to speak of its details, were it not that being in the country at the time, and not accompanying the troops, I saw it under a somewhat different light. 334 TUEKISTAN. tion could easily have been made against Kashgar — in fact the idea had been entertained, and stores had been collected for it — yet the apparent submission of Yakub Khan put this out of the question. At the same time Khiva being nearer to Kussia, there being so many scores to pay off against that country, and it being possible easily to arouse the patriotic feeling of the country by the tales of barbarity exercised towards Eussian captives, and by the disturbance of Eussian commerce and communications, a war in that direction presented much greater advantages. There was perhaps, too, in the Governor-General's mind a feeling that a successful Khivan expedition, while beiug- in itself an achievement of considerable merit, would in a satisfactory way round off his whole Asiatic career. He had begun as a general in the conquest of Samarkand. He had succeeded in inducing Khokand, Bukhara, and Kashgar to make commercial treaties which appeared very well on paper, no matter how delusive in practice, and the conquest of Khiva would place him before the world as successful in the role which he had aspired to play — that of the pacificator of Central Asia. At the same time in a war against Khiva he would have the support of nearly every person in Tashkent. The officers, almost without exception — and one could hardly blame them for it — were always desirous of some new expedi- tion by which they could win crosses and rewards. The 'St. Anne's fever,' as Mr. Grant Duff aptly expressed it in the House of Commons, is very prevalent in Turkistan, and more than one expedition in Central Asia has been undertaken, with really no higher aim than to secure decorations for the men who carried it on. 1 General Kaufmann came to St. Petersburg, and with his winning manners and social popularity — for in St. Petersburg he unbends and casts off the dignity which oppresses him at Tashkent — succeeded, after a struggle, not only in strengthening his position, but in obtaining permission for the expedition against Khiva. It was, however, expected that the expedition of Colonel Markozof from the Attrek, in the autumn of 1872, would probably render this unnecessary, as with some good luck he might have captured Khiva by a coup-de-main, and it was 1 This was in a great measure, if not entirely, the case with the expeditions against Karshi, Shahrisabs, and Kuldja. PLAN OF THE CAMPAIGN. 335 not until the failure of this expedition l became known that steps •were taken for the immediate fitting out of a large expedition. The great difficulty in an expedition against Khiva — as General Perovsky found out — is that of getting there. The population of the Khanate was small, and from the experience of Russians in Asia it was known that, however warlike they might be, the undisciplined forces of the Khan could not stand against modern cannon and breech-loading rifles. But Khiva was an oasis in the midst of a desert lying 600 miles from Tashkent, 930 miles from Orenburg, and 500 miles from Kras- novodsk on the Caspian, the only three places which, it was thought, could serve as bases of operations. It was impossible to send troops by water, partly because there were not sufficient transports at Fort No. 1, and partly because the mouths of the Amu Darya were shallow and unfit for navigation. General Kaufmann proposed, therefore, to make a double attack upon Khiva by a force taken from the army of the Cau- casus, which was to proceed through Krasnovodsk or Tchi- kishlar on the Caspian, and by another from Tashkent, which was to proceed by way of Jizakh through the desert close to the northern boundary of Bukhara, hoping by diplomatic means to prevent that Khanate from attacking them in the flank. With this latter was to be united a small force, drawn for con- venience from Orenburg, which was to start from Fort No. 1 on the Syr Darya, proceed to the Amu Darya, and along the right bank of that river until it met the detachment from Tashkent. General Kryzhanofsky, however, the Governor- General of Orenburg, who had been called to St. Petersburg to consult with General Kaufmann and the Grand Duke Michael, the Emperor's Lieutenant in the Caucasus, on the subject of the expedition, argued that this plan could not be followed, as it left open the steppes between Orenburg, the Caspian, and Khiva. This region had always served as a shelter for depre- datory bands of Khivans, and it might be expected that either the Khivan army or various bands of Turkomans, in order to escape from the attacks of the Russian forces, would march into the Ust-Urt, and by making dissensions among the Kirghiz create much disturbance ; they even might possibly 1 Colonel Markozof reached Igdy, but was obliged to retreat, after being attacked by the Turkomans and losing most of his camels. 336 TTJKKISTAK attack the post-road and Orenburg- itself. General Kryzhan- ofsky, therefore, proposed that the whole expedition should proceed from Orenburg- ; or that, at least, in case of the accept- ance of General Kaufmann's plan, another force should be sent from Orenburg directly south, along 1 the Western shore of the Aral Sea, which might meet the other troops in front of Khiva. This would protect the steppe against the Khivans, and in case, on account of the floods of the lower Amu Darya, the Tashkent expedition should find it impossible to reach Khiva, it would be able to render effective assistance to the expedition of the Caucasus. The representations of General Kryzhanofsky had their weight, and it was decided to allow him to send this detachment, although it was never expected that it would reach Khiva, but that it would confine itself to keeping communi- cations open. Finally, in December, 1872, the plan of the expedition received the Emperor's sanction. It was said at the time that the vote in the Council, which was presided over by the Emperor in person, stood 35 for the capture of Khiva to 9 against it, and that Prince Gortchakof was in the minority, believing that it would be better to punish Khiva than to take it. The whole expedition was to be placed under the immediate command of General Kaufmann, who was to accompany the detachment sent from Tashkent, and who was desirous of re- taining for himself the honour of capturing Khiva. Strict orders were, therefore, given to all the detachments that in case they reached the frontiers of the country sooner than tne column from Tashkent, they should halt, fortify themselves, and be ready to lend assistance to the Turkistan column as soon as they heard of its arrival. In no case were they to attack the city or to enter into negotiations with the Khan. Minor changes were subsequently introduced into the scheme on ac- count of the difficulty of procuring camels. The detachment of the Caucasus was divided into two : one, under Colonel Markozof, was to start from Tchikishlar on the Attrek, and ad- vance directly to Khiva by the southern ridge ; the other, under Colonel Lomakin, was to start from Fort Alexandrofsky in the peninsula of Mangyshlak, joining the column from Orenburg about Kungrad. Four steamers of the Aral flotilla, with barges of provisions in tow, were to pass through the Sea of Aral from STAET OF THE EXPEDITION. 337 Fort No. 1 and to attempt the ascent of one of the mouths of the Amu Darya. Preparations of all kinds were proceeded with as fast as possible, in order that the expedition might be ready to take the field in the early spring. The Turkistan detachment was, as I have said, divided into two columns ; one a small subsidiary column moving southwards from Kazala and Perovsky, was under the command of Colonel Grolof ; the other, the main column, which was to rendezvous at Jizakh and then move westward, was commanded by General Golovatchef, the military governor of the province of Syr Darya. The Kazala column was accompanied by H.I.H. the Grand Duke Nicholas Constantinevitch, and the Jizakh column by H.I.H. the Duke Eugene of Leuehtenberg. In all, the forces of this detach- ment comprised 3,420 infantry, 1,150 cavalry, with 20 guns, 2 mitrailleuses, and 8 rocket-stands, making altogether about 5,500 men. For the trains it became necessary to obtain a large number of camels — 8,000 according to official reports l — which were chiefly hired from the Kirghiz of the province of Syr Darya, with a promise that 50 rubles would be paid for every one that died. The Jizakh column left the river Kly on March 28, and on April 11 the different detachments all came into camp at the wells of Aristan Bel Kuduk, a distance of about 80 miles. The troops, in spite of unseasonable snowstorms, had not much suffered, and the number of sick was small. Great difficulties had, however, been experienced, for the Kirghiz fearing that they never Avould receive pay for the camels — which was, indeed, actually the case in the end — naturally furnished their poorest and weakest animals. In consequence of this the camels perished so rapidly from exhaustion and insufficient food that it was found impossible to move from the bivouac on the Kly with all the provisions, &c, it was desired to take. Many stores were therefore left there under charge of a small guard, and more were soon after abandoned en route. In addition to this there were difficulties about the provisions. The biscuits which had been sent with the expedition had been stored for several years at Tashkent and Tchinaz, and had become entirely worm-eaten and mouldy, so that they were uneatable and were 1 Private information collected in the various districts makes this as many aa 14,000. VOL. II. Z 338 TUKKISTAN, thrown away. It was, therefore, necessary to obtain from Samarkand five hundred quarters of wheat, which was hastily baked into biscuits, while a large quantity more was ordered. 1 At the wells of Temyr Kabuk the Beks of the neighbouring Bukharan provinces of Nurata and Ziaueddin met General Kaufmann with a few camels and some supplies of fuel and forage, which they had been ordered by the Amir to collect there. These supplies, as well as the presents sent by the Amir, were received with gratitude and as a mark of friendli- ness. General Kaufmann retained both Beks with him to the end of the campaign, though whether as guests or as hostages is not precisely stated. The Amir of Bukhara had taken this step partly because he had been asked, and partly from a desire to propitiate General Kaufmann, as he constantly feared that the troops would turn and attack Bukhara. 2 However, as they proceeded further, and the difficulties of their position became better known at Buk- hara, the Amir somewhat changed his tactics. The sutlers and contractors who were sent from the expedition into the Buk- haran provinces to purchase grain and stores, were forbidden by the authorities to export them, and orders were given that they should receive no camels for their caravans. It was only after a melee, in which one of the Kussian clerks killed a Bukharan, and on threatening that the troops would turn against Bukhara, that the caravans were finally allowed to depart. The attitude at Samarkand of General Abramof, who was always ready for a march, had an effect upon the Amir, and finally additional provisions under the charge of Bukharan officials were sent on to the troops at Karak-ata. According to the official report the Amir refused to receive any pay for these provisions, but other information makes it appear that most of the supplies were not the property of the Amir but of private contractors, who were well paid for what they furnished. What was given in the way of presents by the Amir himself was very little ; for this, however, he received warm thanks. The Khan of Khiva, meanwhile, having become convinced that the Kussians were in earnest about the war, repented, and sent an embassy to Kazala with a letter and excuses, and twenty- 1 ' Golos,' No. 148, 1873. Letter from Samarkand of April 21 (May 3). * See page 309. CHANGE OF KOUTE. 339 one Eussian slaves. 1 The expedition, however, had already started, and the letter of the Khan, with the information of the arrival of the embassy, was forwarded to General Kaufman n and reached him on his march. He immediately gave orders that the ambassador should be sent on to him, and that tho.se of the prisoners wbo desired to serve in the expedition could join tbe Kazala column. During the halt at Aristan Bel Kuduk, which was necessary to refresh the troops, it was decided to change the route of march. It appears that, by the rules of the order, the Cross of St. George can be given to the chief of staff of an expedition only when the route successfully followed has been prepared by him. Now Colonel Trotzky, who was the chief of staff of the expedition, had not personally engaged in the preparation of the route which was to be followed, it having been drawn up for him at the office of the staff at Tashkent. Therefore, in order to render him eligible for the military decoration, in the event of the success of the expedition, it became necessary to make a considerable change in the route. It was resolved, therefore, that instead of taking the route first proposed by a well-known road to the Bukan mountains and the wells of Min-Bulak, and then south-westerly to the Amu Darya at Shura-khana, to follow a new road through Khalata to Utch- Utchak, which seemed to be shorter, but of which absolutely nothing was known. Orders were therefore sent to the Kazala column to change its direction, and meet the rest of the expedition at Aristan Bel Kuduk. That column, a portion of which left Kazala on March 21, arrived at Irkibai on April 6, where the troops erected a small fort which they named Blagovestchensky. On April 14 it arrived at Bakali in the Bukan mountains, and advanced from thence to Aristan Bel Kuduk, where it formed the rear-guard of the whole Turkistan detachment. After obtaining a fresh supply of 800 camels from the Kirghiz of the Kyzyl Kum tribes, General Kaufmann set out from Aristan Bel Kuduk on April 23 and 24, and on May 6 the troops were all collected at Khalata in a fair condition, notwithstanding the long marches, the intense heat, and the violent winds. Here it was considered necessary to fortify a 1 See vol. i., p. 49 ; and also Appendix V. z 2 340 TURKISTAN. mound, on -which had previously been the tomb of the saint Kbala-ata, to serve both as a defence and a provision depot. The works were commenced on May 6, the day of St. George, who gave his name to the fort, and three days later the fort was finished and the Eussian flag was hoisted. Now began the real difficulties of the campaign. The eighty miles of good road which had been supposed to exist between Khalata and the Amu Darya turned out to be 120 miles of deep and shifting sand, about which little information could be procured, and where, as far as could be ascertained, the only water was at the wells of Adam Krylgan, about twenty-four miles from Khalata. The name, Adam Krylgan, meaning ' man's destruction,' seemed to be particularly appli- cable to the region. The first detachment which was sent out from Khalata, ' after going a short distance, was attacked by Turkomans, and two officers who, almost unattended, were in advance of the troops were wounded. After a slight skirmish the Turkomans rode off. General Kaufmann arrived at Adam Krylgan on April 12 at midnight. The place was an utter desert, with a few bad wells, including some new ones which had been dug by the first Eussian detachment, and without a sign of vegetation. After a day's rest it was proposed to send the troops on by a march with three halts of six hours each to Utch-Utchak on the Amu Darya. The advance-guard started shortly after mid- night and marched until nine o'clock in the morning, in all about thirteen miles, when they halted for their first rest. It was found, however, that the sands were so heavy and the camels so weak, that the rear of this detachment did not arrive at the rendezvous until rive o'clock in the evening. The heat was so intense, and both horses and camels were so worn out, that further advance was impossible. It therefore became necessary for some of the troops to return to the wells of Adam Krylgan and fetch Water for the rest. Affairs were now desperate. It was impossible to advance, and it seemed shameful to retreat, while the small quantity of water at Adam Krylgan rendered it ruin to remain, for the supply which had been brought was nearly exhausted. Even had it been desirable for the expedition to return to Khalata, and then retrace its steps and pursue the route first chosen DESPAIR AND SAFETY. 311 to Min Bulak, this was impossible on account of the lack of transports. For a moment it seemed as if the army would be entirely lost in the desert. General Kaufman n despaired, and gave orders that should anything happen to him the command of the expedition was to be given, not to General Golovatcbef, but to Colonel Trotzky, his chief of staff. Finally a hope of safety appeared in the shape of a ragged Kirghiz who had joined the Kazala detachment on the march from Irkibai, and whose excellent qualities the Grand Duke Nicholas and Colonel Dreschern had been the first to discover. He said that a few miles to the right of the road were the wells of Alty Kuduk. General Kaufmann handed him his pocket flask and offered him a hundred rubles reward if he would bring it back filled with water. This was done, and a portion of the troops was immediately sent to Alty Kuduk, where the wells were found to be few, and, what was worse, deep, but yet there was water. The pontoons were then unloaded and filled with water to serve as drinking troughs for the remaining horses and camels. The expedition was preserved, and after a halt of several days pursued its way in small detachments and by slow stages to the Amu Darya, which it reached on May 23, in eleven days instead of two. Of the 10,000 camels with which the expedition had been provided, but 1,200 now remained. The whole road from Khalata was strewn with camp equipage, with officers' baggage, and with munitions of war. Ammunition and stores had in several places been buried in the sand, with the expectation that subsequent detachments would be sent out from Khalata for the purpose of recovering them. An officer who passed over the road a few weeks subsequently, told me that the whole distance was covered with the skeletons and decaying bodies of camels and horses, the stench from which was intolerable, while the articles strewn along the road made it appear almost like a bazaar. Nevertheless the expedition was safe. Water had been reached, and the troops, in spite of their sufferings from heat and from thirst, were in fair health and in good spirits, which they soon had occasion to prove, for near Utch-U tchak there was a skirmish with a small body of Turkomans under Sadyk. Pursuing its way down the right bank of the river, on May 342 TURKISTAN. 28 and 29, the expedition came in sight of a fortified camp on the opposite shore, guarding the ferry of Sheikh-aryk,from which they were greeted with a heavy artillery fire. The Eussian guns were immediately put into position, the camp shelled, and the Khivans, who were supposed to number about 4,000 men, under the command of the Divan Begi Mat Murad, abandoned their camp and retreated. The Eussian loss was only two horses killed, which in two hours were eaten by the hungry troops. The two pontoons which could alone be brought from Khalata had before this been put together and were going down the river, and together with the cavalry succeeded in capturing eleven boats belonging to the enemy, a lucky acqui- sition, as otherwise it would have been difficult if not impos- sible to cross the river. The passage of the Amu was begun on May 30 and ended on June 3. On May 28 a deputation from the town of Shura-khana, on the right bank, had appeared at General Kaufmann's camp, offering the submission of that city, and a detachment of cavalry was therefore sent there, remaining four days. Here the army succeeded for the first time in finding sufficient forage and fresh provisions (although the soldiers were reduced to rags frum the loss of their baggage) ; for in consequence of a proclamation issued by General Kaufmann, the inhabitants of the villages, feeling that their lives would be safe, had begun to appear in the camp bringing articles for sale. The town of Hazarasp was occupied on June 4, after being abandoned by the enemy. Here General Kaufmann received a letter from the Khan Seid Mohammed Eahim, informing him that the Eussian prisoners had been sent back, and declaring his readiness to comply with all the Eussian demands, but asking that the movements of troops should be stopped. 1 General Kaufmann replied, calling attention to the hostile 1 Here is an extract from this letter. ' In your letter you speak of freeing the prisoners. In fact, we have from five to ten Russian men, but they are not at all prisoners, as they were not captured by my troops, but they were bought with money from the Kirghiz and the Adaef tribes, and we from friendship to you only keep them. 'You ask us to send back with the prisoners an envoy to talk about the con- clusion of a peace which would still further strengthen our friendly relations. With that purpose we sent you Murtaza Hodja Bii, who, however, was unable to go to THE KHAN PEOTESTS. 343 disposition of the Khan for the last six years, and said that although he was ready to conclude a treaty of peace and friend- ship, he should yet continue to advance, and counselled him to disband his troops in order to save his country from devastation. Here he also received a despatch from General Verevkin, saying that the Orenburg detachment expected to be at Yangy Ur- gentch, and would meet him if necessary at Hanki. Informa- tion received from the inhabitants gave further news of General Verevkin's movements, and showed that he had already arrived at Kosh-kupyr, twelve miles from Khiva. Of the 1,200 camels which had arrived with the expedition, 700 had been sent back to Alty-Kuduk to bring on as much as possible of the baggage with the detachment of Colonel Novomlynsky which had been left there. Of those which remained only 300 were serviceable, and it became necessary to find carts, 500 of which in the course of a few days were taken from the inhabitants, and formed the train of the army. On June 8, after leaving a small garrison in Hazarasp General Kaufmann and the troops set off on the road to Khiva, a distance of forty-five miles. The night before the march another envoy from the Khan arrived bringing to General Kaufmann a renewal of the former desire for peace, and stating that he had sent back the Eussian prisoners who had been in captivity in Khiva, and therefore he did not understand why the Eussians had invaded his territory from different sides. Tashkent through Bukhara. At that time a letter wis sent from the Governor of Orenburg to the Kirghiz Zagyr Bii with a request to free the Russians. A similar letter was brought from Tcheleken by the Tchudor Sary Ishan from the commander of the troops there. Learning that Murtaza Bii could not go through Bukhara we sent with the messenger who had left two of our own people to Orenburg and Tcheleken, and promised to send back the men that we had detained, but neither in Orenburg nor in Tcheleken did they receive our envoys or enter into communication with them, declaring that all that was entrusted to you. On the return of these envoys we confided the Russians who were with us to Murtaza Bii, and sent them through Kazala, and ourselves waited in peace and quiet. We hear our envoy has had an interview with you, and has given up your people, but up to this time we have received no news directly from you. Meanwhile your armies began to appear in various parts of our possessions. Then the inhabitants began to defend their families, went out to meet you, and, as far as possible, tried to keep you back. . . . 'If your wish was to receive the return of your prisoners, you have it already. If you want anything else, say so; according to our ability we will fulfil it. If you desire to conclude a treaty, then remain where you are, and do not come through the inhabited districts.' 344 TURKISTAN. He asked General Kaufmarm to reply, and explain to him his conditions. The envoy was ordered to return to Khiva and declare to the Khan that the General would make conditions with him in Khiva only. Owing to the constant raids of the Persian Turkomans across the Attrek, and to the report that many of them had gone to Khiva to take part in the hostilities against Russia, Colonel Markozof, the commandant of Tchikishlar, felt it necessary to give them a severe lesson before he began his march to Khiva. Accordingly, on March 12, he crossed the Attrek, and on reaching the banks of the Grurgan, he found large masses, of Turkoman horsemen assembled, but these quickly dispersed and fled in disorder across the river. In pursuing them Colonel Markozof even crossed the Grurgan and entered what was certainly Persian territory ; but he reported that he was received in a friendly way by the commandant of the Persian fort of Ak-kala, who thanked him for the punishment he had inflicted upon the rebels. He returned across the Attrek on March 8. It was now time for the expedition to start for Khiva, but Colonel Markozof had only 2,600 camels, part of them furnished by the Turkomans, and part captured in the late raid across the Attrek. It was therefore impossible to send the number of troops at first proposed, and it was rendered necessary to limit the column to 20 compauies of infantry, 4 sotnias of Cossacks, and 16 guns, together with sappers and rockets, in all 2,200 men, with provisions for two and a half months. The proposed route was by Bugdaili and Aidin to the Uzboi — the old bed of the Amu Darya — and thence by Topatian, Igdy, Ortakuya, and Dandur to the ruined fort of Zmukshir, forty miles west of Khiva, where he was ordered to await the arrival of the Turkistan detachment. The distance from Tchikishlar to Khiva was estimated at 523 miles. The detachment set out on March 31, and on April 29 reached the wells of Igdy, about half way. The condition of the troops was much affected by the severe heat, which most inopportunely and unexpectedly came on, and by the long forced marches they were compelled to make, it being Colonel Markozof's desire to reach Khiva and if possible capture it before the arrival of the other detachments. Near Igdy the advanced guard was attacked by some Tekke FAILURE OF MARKOZOF. 34.5 Turkomans, but the Cossacks soon put them to flight and captured 267 men, as well as 1,000 camels, 5,000 sheep, and many arms. From Igdy to Ortakuya was supposed to be three marches, or over fifty miles, through deep sand and with no wells. The troops were therefore provided at Igdy with sufficient water for double that distance, and they were to move from Igdy by four small detachments from April 30 to May 3. The weather was now intensely hot, and on May 1 a Reaumur thermometer, adjusted for marking up to 55°, showed 52° (149° Fahr.) at ten in the morning, and about mid-day burst. When but a short distance from Igdy, the troops were so overcome by heat, many having had sunstrokes, and the supply of water was even then so nearly exhausted, that it was proposed by the guides to turn off to the wells of Bala Ishem, but Colonel Markozof refused, on the ground that to do so would be wasting time and making the actual route longer. He pressed on therefore until he had advanced fifty miles from Igdy, but the position of Ortakuya could not yet be ascertained. The detachments were now all separated from one another, and each one was in the same desperate pre- dicament. It became necessary to send scouts to search for the wells of Bala Ishem, and then to bring water from them by camels to refresh the troops. The losses became at last so great, that the impossibility of advancing was evident even to Colonel Markozof. They had not yet reached Ortakuya, and from there to Dandur and Zmukshir were waterless deserts of still greater extent. A council of war was called, and it was resolved to return to Krasnovodsk. The retreat from Igdy began on May 4, many of the troops from illness and weakness having to be carried on camels, and on May 26 the last of the detachment reached Krasnovodsk, having been followed for nearly the whole distance by bands of Turkomans, who from time to time attacked them. ' Almost the whole expe- dition was ill. Sixty men died of sunstroke. The troops returned to Krasnovodsk without their arms. The camels, the booty of the Turkomans, and various provisions, were abandoned in the steppe. One staff officer threw away a full service of silver plate and all his conserves. The expedition returned in a most miserable state.' ' Some of the cannon 1 From a letter in the 'Exchange Gazette,' June 10 (22), ) 873, for publishing •which the newspaper immediately received a -warning. 346 TURKISTAN. had to be buried in the sand, but were afterwards recovered, and many rifles were brought in subsequently by the Kirghiz and friendly Turkomans. In addition to the other difficulties the expedition had been put to the greatest straits on account of the scarcity and bad quality of the provisions, the supplying of the troops having been entrusted by favour to a rascally Armenian contractor. Although the expedition of Markozof was in this way a complete failure so far as any direct influence on the success of the Kbivan campaign, yet his previous movements on the Attrek had no doubt somewhat hindered the resistance of the Khivans by keeping back the Tekke Turkomans from sharing in the contest. There could be no doubt that apart from the bad provisions the failure of the expedition was directly due to the bad management of Markozof, who was ambitious of winning for the army of the Caucasus the glory of taking Khiva. The officials of the Caucasus shielded him as far as possible, and in the official reports he was absolved from blame ; but not- withstanding this, he soon afterwards felt himself obliged to resign. The formation of the Mangyshlak column had been caused by the disturbances among the Adaef Kirghiz in January, 1873, — which had been started, it was said, by Khivan emissaries — who refused to furnish camels for the expedition. The dis- turbances were soon repressed, but it was thought best to send troops to Khiva through that district for the moral effect which would be thereby produced both on the Kirghiz and on the Khivans. The order for the formation of the column was only received in the Caucasus on March 12, but preparations were immediately begun, and on April 26 the expedition, under the command of Colonel Lomakin, composed of 12 companies of infantry, 6 sotnias of Cossacks, 6 guns, rockets and sappers, amounting to about 2,000 men, set out for Kinderli, south of Mangyshlak, which had been 'agreed upon as the rendezvous. Owing to the careful disposition of Colonel Lomakin the column arrived on May 24 at Kungracl, having accomplished in twenty- nine days a march of 400 miles through a desert country, the greater portion of which had been hitherto unexplored and was scantily supplied with water. The forced marches of the last THE ORENBURG COLUMN. 347 seven days, which were rendered necessary to join the Orenburg detachment, had severely tried the troops, but still they arrived in Kungrad in excellent condition. Here Colonel Lomakin came under the orders of his superior, General Verevkin. The Orenburg column, although not the most numerous, was perhaps the best prepared to encounter the difficulties of the route. It was well fitted out and provided with everything necessary, and as far as the Emba the men, who were warmly dressed, were conveyed in sledges, while kibitkas were erected at night to shelter them. The different parts of the column were sent from Uralsk and Orenburg between February 25 and March 9, and met at the fort on the Emba. The forces amounted in all to 3,461 men, 1,797 horses, 12 guns and mortars, and 6 rocket-stands, and were placed under the command of Lieu- tenant-General Verevkin, an officer experienced in steppe cam- paigns, who in 1864 had taken Turkistan, and had since that time been Governor of the Ural Cossacks. For their transport 10,391 camels were provided. By March 30, the troops had all collected on the Emba, but were obliged to wait some days for the transports, which had been delayed in consequence of the severe snow-storms. On April 11, the main forces of the troops left the Emba, the advanced guard having started four days before. As far as the Aral Sea the country had been thoroughly explored by the yearly expeditions sent out into the steppe for a long time previous, and it may even be said that the whole route was well known. The troops, therefore, after suffering no privations, and after no marches of great difficulty, following the western shore of the Aral Sea, arrived at Kungrad on May 20. Kungrad, which had been deserted by its inhabitants, was occupied without opposition, and General Verevkin was there joined by the detachment under the command of Colonel Lomakin. Here General Verevkin learned of the sad fate of the detachment sent from the Aral flotilla, which had penetrated up to Ulkun Darya, one of the mouths of the Amu Darya, nearly to Kungrad. On May 19 a small detachment of ten men, a lieutenant, and a topographer, was sent out to examine the dam of the Ulkun Darya, and to report to General Verevkin. They were betrayed by their Kirghiz guide and were attacked and 348 TUKKI3TAN. killed, and their headless bodies were found six miles beiow Kungrad. Leaving' Kungrad on May 4, the now united columns of Orenburg and Mangyshlak pursued their march up the river, having, on May 27, a sharp skirmish with Khivan troops before Hodjeili on June 1, and another near Mangyt; and, after some further skirmishes on June 2 and 3, having been obliged to build a bridge 189 feet long over the canal at Klytch Niaz Bai, they encamped on June 7 in a pleasure garden of the Khan, called Tchanaktchik, scarcely three miles from the northern gate of Khiva. On June 5 General Verevkin received an envoy from the Khan, with a letter asking for a truce of three or four days, sa}?ing that he had sent a similar letter to General Kaufmann, and that he desired nothing so much as to live in peace with the Russians. At the same time he urged the Greneral not to change his conduct towards the Turkomans, whom he regarded as unruly subjects, and as really his worst enemies. General Verevkin considering that this letter was written with a view of gaining time paid no attention to it, but proceeded with his march. The same day General Verevkin received his first direct communication from General Kaufmann in a note (written in German to avoid being intercepted) dated June 2 from the left bank of the Amu Darya. For some days no further intelligence was received, but, on the contrary, rumours were prevalent that General Kaufmann, after crossing, had been obliged to retreat again to the river, in consequence of the lack of provisions and transports, so that he was 'still seventy miles from Khiva. The constant attacks from small bodies of the enemy, and reports that the Khan was determined to make a last stand before the walls, brought General Verevkin to the belief that it would be unsafe to wait any longer for General Kaufmann, and that it was necessary to take energetic measures. At mid-day on the 9th a reconnaissance in force was made close to the walls, for the purpose of placing a breaching battery and beginning the bombardment of the city. The troops were obliged to march along the road, which was cut with canals, where they were attacked by sorties of the enemy ; and as they approached the walls, they were exposed to the full fire of ATTACK OX THE CITY. 349 the guns mounted over the gate, which were well aimed. The cannonade on both sides continued for some time and General Verevkin, who had come out to inspect the works, was severely wounded in the head. At four o'clock a deputation came out from the city, to ask for a cessation of the cannonade and for conditions of peace. Colonel Sarantchef, who bad taken the command after Verevkin had been wounded, replied that the artillery would cease provided no further shot should be fired from the walls, but that conditions of peace could only be made with General Kaufmann, and that if the firing- from the walls continued, the bombardment would go on until the city was reduced to ashes. The first attack upon the walls before General Verevkin was wounded was made with such vigour that it would have been very easy then to have stormed the place, and Lieutenant- Colonel Payarof asked General Verevkin for ladders for the purpose. Verevkin refused, and ordered the troops to retire from the walls, but still kept up the cannonade. No sooner had the deputation departed than the Khivans on the walls again began their fire, and a second envoy then appeared, saying that the Khan should not be held responsible for the firing, as this was done by the Yomud Turkomans, over whom the peaceful inhabitants of the city and the Government had no control, and that the Khan himself had fled, leaving the Government for the present in the hands of his uncle Seid Amir Ul Umar, an imbecile old man, and that he had sent an embassy to General Kaufmann to place himself and the city entirely in his hands. Of course no reply could be given, except that it was a matter of indifference from whom the firing came; and that as long as it was continued the bombard- ment would be kept up. In the evening a letter was received from General Kauf- mann, saying that the Tashkent column was seven miles east of Khiva, asking General Verevkin to join him at eight o'clock the next morning at a bridge three miles from the east gate of the town, and adding that the uncle of the Khan, who was charged with the Government, had promised at that time to surrender to him the city. The Eussian loss on that day was 4 killed and 36 wounded. The next morning (June 10) General Verevkin, who per- 350 TURKISTAN. sonally was unable to move on account of his wound, sent Colonels Lomakin and Sarantchef with a portion of the troops to the rendezvous appointed by Gfeneral Kaufmann. They had no soner gone there than the firing again began from the north gate, against the troops left in the camp. Colonel Scobelef therefore was obliged to renew the bombardment and silence the hostile fire, and finally stormed and captured the north gate with a loss of 15 killed and wounded. At the moment this was taking place, Greneral Kaufmann was receiving the peaceable submission of the city on the other side. The uncle of the Khan had come out with the Khan's- younger brother Ata Jan, the Inak Irtagali, a cousin of the Khan, and other persons of distinction, with presents, and had given themselves entirely into the hands of the Kussians. The gate was thrown open, and orders were sent to Colonel Scobelef to cease firing, as the city was already occupied. As soon as the noise of the cannonade was no longer heard, the troops, with colours flying and music playing, made their trium- phal entry into the city. When the music of the advancing column was heard, Colonel Scobelef, who by means of a rocket fire had cleared the streets and penetrated to the palace, judged it best to retire to his camp. Gfeneral Kaufmann occupied the Khan's palace, and placed a guard there to preserve the property and the safety of the harem, the inmates of which had remained, and orders were given to disarm the inhabitants. He then visited the camp of the Orenburg detachment, although without seeing Greneral Verevkin, and returned to his own. On June 11, the anniver- sary of the birth of the Emperor Peter the Great, a Te Deum was said, as well as a mass for the repose of the souls of Peter and of those of the men who in his time had died in the war against Khiva. The troops, under the command of Greneral Gfolovatchef, remained in the city until June 13, and on the day following went to their camps, after occupying with a slight force three of the gates. The great object of the exjjedition was now accomplished. Khiva at last had been punished, and was in the hands of the Russians. But in spite of the precautions which had been taken that Gfeneral Kaufmann should have all the glory of the expedition, circumstances brought it about that the troops of THE HONOUR OF THE CAMPAIGN. 351 another detachment entered the city first. In fact the whole honour of the expedition belongs to the Orenburg detachment, and the views of the Orenburg authorities before the organisa- tion of the expedition were completely justified. The detach- ment of the Caucasus under Markozof had been unable to corje with the desert, and had been obliged to turn back. The Turkistan detachment had nearly shared a similar fate, and if it succeeded in reaching the Amu Darya, in crossing it, and in advancing to the capital, it was owing to the fact that no troops of importance were sent against it, the whole attention of the enemy being directed to resist the advance of Greneral Verevkin. The Khivans supposed that the desert would be sufficient to prevent General Kaufmann from reaching the Amu Darya, and the small bands of Turkomans who met him at Utch-Utchak, and were encamped at Sheikh-aryk, were hastily collected and sent there. It is the opinion of many who took part in the campaign, that if the whole force of Turkomans had tried to prevent Greneral Kaufmann from crossing the Amu Darya, and if they had displayed the same spirit as they did during the Turkoman campaign, they would have greatly impeded his crossing, and perhaps ha^e prevented him from marching to Khiva. The crossing at Sheikh-aryk then occupied five days, while on the homeward way, in crossing at Hanki with much greater facilities, ten days were consumed. The Orenburg detachment, to the formation of which Greneral Kaufmann had given a reluctant consent, in order to protect the steppe against Khivan and Kirghiz marauders and the Mangyshlak detachment which joined it, and which had been formed by mere accident, were the only ones which were well organised, which found a good road, which met with few disasters, which encountered the enemy in force and suffered considerable loss, 1 which arrived safely, and which captured the city. Had the advice of the authorities at Orenburg been followed at first, no other expedition would have been neces- sary, and Khiva could have been taken quietly, without dis- cussion, and without the consequent diplomatic unpleasantness. 1 The combined Orenburg and Mangyshlak detachments lost during the whole campaign 30 killed and 101 severely wounded. The total loss of the Turkistan detachment up to the capture of Khiva was one killed and four wounded in the skirmish near Khalata. 352 TTJKKISTAJN. It now became necessary to put a stop to the anarchy which prevailed in the country, and to take some measures to provide it with a Government. Ata Jan, 1 the brother of the Khan, who had been elected to fill the place of the fugitive Seid Mo- hammed Rahim, was temporarily confirmed in this office ; but Greneral Kaufmann, hearing that the former Khan was among the Yomuds, wrote him a letter advising him to return. This was sent on the morning of June 13, and on the evening of the next day the Khan, without going to Khiva, came to the Russian camp and gave himself up. As he seemed to be a young man of good capacities, although he had never applied himself to business, and was the lawful sovereig-n, he was retained by General Kaufmann as Khan, under the guidance of a special council or divan, composed in part of Russians appointed by the Commander-in-Chief, and in part of Khivan magnates, the chief of whom was the Divan Begi Mat Niaz, who was considered to be the only man in Khiva who had shown good sense and used his judgment during the struggle. 2 Mat Murad, the former chief councillor of the Khan, who always exerted a hostile influence to Russians, together with his con- fidant, Rahmet Ullah, was sent under arrest to Kazala and subsequently to Russia. These arrangements being made, Greneral Kaufmann declared to the population of the Khanate the mercy of the Emperor, on condition that they should live quietly and peaceably, and occupy themselves with their business and with agricultural labour. The excitement ot the population gradually ceased, the streets again filled with people, and the bazaars were re- opened. Strict orders were given at the same time to the soldiers to send out no foraging parties and to take nothing from the inhabitants, but to pay cash for everything at the bazaars. This was a mercy which the inhabitants had scarcely expected, and to which they were not accustomed ; and not only were they not thankful for it, but they began to abuse it, for frequent complaints were made of the marauding propensities of the soldiers, in many cases unjustly. In one 1 He subsequently entered the Kussian service as a cornet of cayabry in the Caucasus. 2 Mat Niaz afterwards came to St. Petersburg to submit to an operation of lithotomy, in consequence of which he died in March, 1875. ABOLITION OF SLAVERY. 3£3 case a soldier was sentenced to be hung for stealing a cow The evidence of the native accuser had been accepted without other proof, and he was only able to escape because his com- rades and the officers of his company proved that the cow had followed the company ever since crossing the Amu Darya. At another time six soldiers were ordered to be shot ; but these severities were exciting such discontent among the troops— officers as well as soldiers — that at the personal request of the two Grand Dukes the men were pardoned. There was certainly some excuse for the soldiers, for owing to the hardships of the march and to the loss of their baggage they were almost naked and without their usual comforts. The question of the liberation of the Persian slaves, which was next to be considered, seems to have been first raised by General Verevkin, who had freed those Persians who joined the troops, and on June 12 had telegraphed concerning them to the Governor of Astrakhan. Two days afterwards he wrote to General Kaufmann upon the subject, and received a reply that this question would be proposed to the new divan. It was considered that it would be unbecoming of the Russian armies to allow the institution of slavery to exist in Khiva, even though the whole of that country had not come under Russian dominion, but the most impelling reason for the eman- cipation was, that slaves who had run away from their masters had begun to rob, pillage, and murder ; and the masters, fearing to be deprived of their slaves, were imprisoning and torturing those who remained to prevent them from running away. On June 24, therefore, by the direction of General Kauf- mann, the Khan issued an order to his people abolishing slavery, and commanding them to free their slaves under penalty of severe punishment. The slaves were to be allowed to remain in Khiva or to return to Persia, as they chose. Those Persians wh o desired to return to their country were ordered to collect at the bazaars — of which there were thirty-seven in the Khan- ate — where their names would be recorded by an officer, and then they could choose their elders and go to the village of Naiman, which was the point of assembly. From thence, in parties of five or six hundred, they were to be sent to Krasno- vodsk, and thence on Russian steamers to Persia. Some of them, however, preferred to go by way of Mashad ; but in consequence VOL. II. A A 354 IURKISTAN. of the dangers to which they would be exposed by this route from Turkomans, they were ordered to go by the way of Kras- novodsk. We have accounts of but two parties actually sent to Krasnovodsk, one of which was attacked by Turkomans, when the Persians were either killed or reinslaved. 1 There were estimated to be 30,000 slaves in the Khanate, but it is supposed that not more than 5,000 of these were actually freed before the departure of the Russians. During the encampment of the troops at Khiva, opportunity was taken to make surveys of the country lying between Khiva and the river, as well as of the chief canals, and officers were sent to study the resources of the Khanate. In order to collect information about the Turkomans living within the Khivan boundaries, the Orenburg detachment was despatched on July 1 to Kunya Urgentch, and from thence to Hodjeili, while Colonel Grlukhofsky, with the cavalry, made an expedition to Lake Sary-Kamysh, a salt lake about 200 miles to the south-west, in order to investigate the old channel of the Amu Darya, and to connect the surveys of Khiva with those made in the preceding years by topographers sent out from the Caucasus. On both these expeditions the troops were everywhere well received by the natives, who not only professed their entire submission but showed it in deeds, as they provided lodging and provisions for the troops at every station free of cost. In spite of the fact that the guns taken by the Orenburg detachment were by order of General Kaufmann delivered up partly to him and partly to the Khivans, the officers of the Tashkent detachment were not satisfied. They had started on the campaign for the purpose of obtaining decorations and in- creased rank. There had been great intrigues before the cam- 1 A letter in the ' Moscow Gazette ' quoted in the ' Journal tie St. Petersbonrg,' October 12 (24), 1873, says a courier sent from Petro-Alexandrofsk, in coining from Tashaur to Iliali, saw the bodies of hundreds of Persians who had been massacred after the Russians left the country. A letter from Khiva in the ' St. Petersburg Viedomosti,' of the same date, says 1,600 slaves were killed since the departure of the Russians. The same statement is repeated in the ' Russki Mir.' The ' Moscow Gazette ' of October 16 (28), 1873 says a courier from Shura-khaua to Mangyshlak saw hundreds of corpses of Persians by the roadside. THE TURKOMAN CAMPAIGN. 355 paign began as to the persons who should accompany it, and further intrigues during the course of it for prominent and advantageous commands. Decorations, it is true, had been distributed with a lavish hand for the skirmish near Khalata, as well as for all those on the banks of the Amu Darya. Nearly every officer had, three times at least, been presented for reward — for having safely made the march over the desert, for having crossed the Amu Darya, and for having reached and entered Khiva. Still there had been no actual fight, and the Cross of St. George — the highest esteemed reward — could not be given without that. Something had to be done, and it was suggested to make a campaign against the Turkomans. Now the Turko- mans had not only been pardoned equally with the other in- habitants of the Khanate by the proclamation of General Kauf- mann, but immediately after the capture of Khiva, and before June 16, the Yomuds had sent to the Eussian camp their elders, whose rank and importance had been confirmed by the assurance of the Khan, with proffers of submission. These proffers had been received, and they had been promised that they shoidd be untouched as long as they lived quietly and neither robbed nor pillaged. More than this, the expedition of Colonel Grlukhofsky to Sary-Karnish had been in the very midst of the Turkomans ; the officers of the surveying parties had lived among them, had shared their hospitality, and had been treated with the greatest kindness. The officers of the Turkistan detachment, on their march back to Kunya Urgentch and Hodjeili, spoke in the highest terms of the honesty and straight- forwardness of the Turkomans in their dealings, and considered them as faithful friends in time of peace, as they had found them bitter and brave enemies in time of war. Still it was not difficult to find reasons. The Turkomans, and especially the Yomuds, had never been obedient subjects of the Khan ; on the contrary, they had exercised control over him. When the Eussian troops retired they might again assume this control, and excite him to hostile acts against the Russians. It was said that peace would be impossible unless the Turkomans were made thoroughly to feel the Russian power, and that the Khan even would not be able to pay the money obligations which he was entering into with the Eus- sians, unless he succeeded in collecting some tribute from the A A 2 356 TURKISTAN. Turkomans — a thing which before had been of very rare oc- currence. ' With these views General Kaufmann decided that, profiting' by the presence of the Kussian troops in the Khanate, it was necessary in some degree to change the order of things regarding the Turkomans, materially and morally, by subduing their pride and their license.' 1 It was, therefore, determined to lay upon the Turkomans a penalty of 300,000 rubles, which was to be their share of the indemnity to be paid by the Khan. General Kaufmann then invited to Khiva the elders of the Yomud Turkomans. Within a week, on July 17, seventeen of the twenty-five elders who had been invited presented them- selves. ' This delay served as a new proof how strange and unintelligible it was to the Turkomans to be obedient and to fulfil the orders or demands of anyone.' 2 When they were assembled General Kaufmann informed them that he had de- cided to place a contribution of 300,000 rubles (41,000?.) upon the Yomuds, of which one-third must be paid within ten days from July 19, and the remaining 200,000 rubles, within five days more, and that all must absolutely be paid by Sunday, August 3. The elders declared ' after some hesitation,' as the official report puts it, that the contribution would be paid. It was no wonder that they hesitated. The Yomuds were a nomad people, whose sole wealth consisted in their flocks and herds, and they had no ready cash. It was impossible even to raise it by the sale of their cattle or their corn, or even of the jewels and ornaments of their wives and daughters, for where were the purchasers to come from ? And what was worse, it was obligatory to pay the contribution in money and not in kind. Then followed an evident breach of faith. The next day, July 18, five of the elders were sent back to their families and tribes to declare the necessity of paying the contribution, while the re- maining twelve were retained as hostages until the money should all be paid. As if to make it still more evident that his real meaning was war, on that very day Greneral Kaufmann, by a written order to Greneral Golovatchef, 3 directed the forces to 1 Official report. ' Military Journal,' December, 1873. 2 Ibid. 3 No. 1167 dated at Khiva, July 6 (18), 1873. ORDERS FOR BUTCHERY. 357 inarch and attack the Turkomans without even waiting 1 for the fifteen days to expire. After stating the fact that the contribution had been laid, General Kaufmann went on to say : ' To follow more closely the payment of the contribution by the Yomuds, I ask your Excellency to start with your detachment for Hazavat on July 7 (19), and to encamp in a suitable place. If your Excellency ' sees that the Yomuds are not occupying them- selves with getting together money, but are assembling for the purpose of opposing our troops, or perhaps even for leaving the country, I order you immediately to move upon the settlements of the Yomuds which are placed along the Hazavat canal and its branches, and to give over the settlements of the Yomuds and their families to complete destruction, and their herds and property to confiscation.'' The disposition of the troops was to be such as to cut off the Turkomans from the steppe and to surround them, so that in case of disobedience they should have no hope of escape. Orders were the same day sent to the Commander of the Oren- burg detachment, directing him to go to Kyzyl-takyr and watch the Turkomans there, and if he saw the least sign of opposition to the troops, or a desire to migrate into the steppe, 1 The style of the Russian orders is worthy of remark. The amount of orders, despatches, and reports written during a short campaign — for the rule seems to be that every order must be in 'writing — is astonishing, and every paper is written with the greatest formality, the appellation of Excellency and the full official rank being used in every possible place. As a consequence, each commander of a ,JJ detachment is obliged to carry with him a large staff of clerks and writers, which .' J? seriously impede his movements. The present Minister of War, seeing the diffi- p\y culties arising from this system, made an effort to change it, but of late the bureau- cratic formalities seem to have become worse than ever. Unfortunately I have lost my note of the number of huge volumes filled with the correspondence of the different detachments which took part in the Khivan campaign, but I remember that the sight of them both astonished and amused me. As an example of this, in the official report published in the ' Military Journal,' November and December, 1873, the first report mentioned of General Kaufmann, dated March 21 (April 2), is No. 76. The last, of September 3 (15), is 2,309. To take other examples at random, the report of General Golovatchef, dated July 26 (August 7), 1873, is No. 1,376. That of Colonel Sarantchef, then commanding the Turkislan detachment, on July 28 (August 0), is No. 1,321. About eighteen days later, on August 15 (28), he had reached No. 1,495. Colonel Lomakin, the commander of the Mangyshlak detachment, on September 1 (13), issued No. 416; and on September 19 (October 1), No. 498. These, however, are nothing to what the commander-in-chief of a military district writes, for we find that on October 24 (November 5), 1873, the commander of the forces in the Orenburg military district had already reached No. 10,475 during that year. 358 TUEKISTAN. or assist their fellows at Hazavat canal, or make common cause with them, to proceed at once to the work of slaughter. Greneral Grolovatchef set out on July 19, and matters went so fast, that on the 20th and 21st he was already able to report that the Turkomans showed yet no signs of collecting the money, but, on the contrary, were assembling together with the evident intention either of running away or of attacking the troops, and he had therefore, owing to the strict orders of the Commander- in-Chief, felt the necessity of punishing them, and had burned their villages along the road. These reports brought out another order from Greneral Kaufmann, July 10 (22), No. 1,217, approving of his conduct, but advising him to preserve the grain rather than burn it, as it might be sold or used by the troops. He informed him also that he had allowed the hostages to go in order that they might influence their tribes and save them from ruin. He further added : ' If the Yomuds become submissive, stop ravaging them, but keep watch of what is being done among them, and at the least attempt to migrate, carry out my order for the final extermination of the disobe- dient tribe.'' Greneral Grolovatchef s campaign against the Turkomans lasted until July 30, when he returned to Ilyali, and met there the Orenburg detachment under Colonel Sarantchef. On the 25th, 27th, 28th, and 29th, there was some hard fighting with the enemy. On the 27th, at night, Greneral Grolovatchef had intended to make an attack upon the Turkoman camp, but just as he was about starting, his own camp was attacked by the Turkomans, and had it not been for the presence of mind of the commander of the sharpshooters, the Eussians would probably have all been massacred. In the meantime the Turkomans had cut off communication between Greneral Grolovatchef and Khiva, and for five days Greneral Kaufmann received no reports. He therefore decided to advance to the assistance of Grolovatchef, and left Khiva on July 27, reaching Ilyali on the 31st. The butchery and the destruction by the troops had been so great that the Turkomans now showed signs of yielding, and on August 1 Greneral Kaufmann received deputations asking for mercy, and promising to return to their former habitations. The next day he assembled the elders of several tribes, and ACCOUNT OF AN EYE-WITNESS. 359 insisted on receiving in twelve days' time a contribution to the amount of 310,000 rubles. Finding- out, however, that they had little ready money, he proposed to them to pay half the sum in camels. To help in raising this sum the Turkoman women had to strip themselves of all their ornaments, and bring them into the Russian camp for sale at whatever prices could be obtained. Every necklace and bracelet thus given up will leave a long legacy of hatred. 1 At the end of the appointed time, August 14, the Turko- mans had succeeded in paying only one-third of the sum demanded, and as General Kaufmann thought it unwise to forgive the remainder, he retained twenty-seven influential Turkomans as hostages until the whole amount should be paid. The next day he returned from Ilyali with the Tashkent detachment to Khiva, and in passing through the lands of the Yomud tribe of Bairam- Shaly, he demanded of them a further contribution of 108,000 rubles, and took fourteen of their elders and influential chiefs as hostages. It is impossible here to enter into the details, interesting as they may be, of the Turkoman campaign, which indeed were excellently set out by Mr. MacGahan, who accompanied the ex- pedition. 2 In addition to his account, the report of another eye-witness may perhaps be interesting. It was taken down from his own lips : — ' When we had gone about twenty-five miles from Khiva, General Golovatchef said before a large number of officers in my presence : " I have received an order from the Commander-in- Chief - I hope you will remember it and give it to your soldiers. This expedition does not spare either sex or age. Kill all of them." After this the officers delivered this command to their several detachments. The detachment of the Caucasus army had not then arrived, but came that evening. Golovatchef called together the officers of the Caucasus and said : " I hope you will fulfil all these commands strictly in the Circassian style, without a question. You are not to spare either sex or age. Kill all of them." The old Colonel of the Caucasus said, " Certainly, we will do exactly as you say." 1 These Turkoman ornaments were subsequently exhibited at St. Petersburg, and at the Geographical Congress at Paris in 1875. 2 'Campaigning on the Oxus.' London, 1874. 360 TUEKISTAN. * On the 7th, when we began to meet the Turkomans, these orders were again brought to mind, and nearly everyone whom we met was killed. The Cossacks seemed to get quite furious, and rushed on them with their sabres, cuttiug everybody down, whether a small child or an old man. I saw several such cases. I remember one case in particular which I could not look at for more than a moment, and rode hastily by. A mother, who had been riding on horseback with three children, was lying dead. The eldest child was dead also. The youngest had a sabre cut through its arm, and while crying was wiping off the blood. The other child, a little older, who was trying to wake up the dead mother, said to me u Tiura — stop." The Turkomans were much enraged at these things, and cut one Cossack into pieces before our eyes. ' On the 1 3th we were in camp, and the camp of the enemy was ail about us. We saw them on every side. They seemed to be numberless. We had a picket of eight men with an officer stationed on a little mound in front of the camp. Of course on the attack of the enemy the pickets are at once withdrawn. This was three o'clock in the afternoon. Suddenly we saw all the soldiers raise their muskets to fire, and an officer raise his sabre. A sotnia of Cossacks was ready on horseback, but the Greneral did not seem to understand, and did not order them to advance. ' Suddenly we saw some Turkomans creeping up from the reeds on one side. A number of Cossacks, without order, at once started forth, but before they could ride 200 paces, the men in the picket were entirely cut to pieces without having had the chance to fire a shot, the Turkomans having stolen in the mean- time sixty camels from different parts of the camp, where they were out of reach. The men were frightfully mutilated. We ouried them the same day. The Cossacks were greatly enraged at this. 'The next day we stayed in camp waiting for the Turkomans, but none came. On the 1 5th we were constantly on our guard. At midnight the Greneral ordered a wagenbury to be constructed at once. My men aroused me and told me of this, but I went to sleep, and told them to go on and take my tilings there as last as possible, but let me sleep. Everybody was working as hard as possible, for an attack on the enemy had been A NIGHT ATTACK. 36. ordered for early dawn, before they had made their morning prayers and ablutions. The wagenburg was only half done when the order was given to advance, and contrary to all rules the cavalry was sent out first. They went along a narrow road intersected with canals, not noticing that many Turkomans were lying hidden in the grass on each side. After going- some distance they suddenly found themselves face to face with a large body of Turkoman cavalry across the road, whose inten- tion was to take the camp. The Cossacks turned face and fled, followed by the Turkomans, and all hurried in one mass into the camp. The utmost confusion ensued, and for twenty minutes I did not hear a single command or see any order, and we thought that the whole affair was lost, until the commander of the rocket-battery brought his rockets into play. The rockets were damp, and for a time did not explode. At last two went off well, and the Turkomans who were coming on were much frightened, thinking it some new form of warfare. While the Turkomans were still in confusion, the commander of the sharp- shooters brought his men up and put in line one company after another, who immediately opened fire on the enemy. The Turkomans made several charges, and each time were repulsed by the steady fire of the sharpshooters. Several hundred bodies were left on the ground. Grolovatchef was not wounded until after the affair was quite over. When the enemy were re- treating, and though still in sight, Golovatchef came up and rode along the line, thanking the soldiers for their valiant con- duct. As he rode along the line of the sharpshooters near the end, a single Turkoman lay in ambush in the grass. He sud- denly rushed out, and with a cry attacked Grolovatchef with uplifted sabre and wounded him on the wrist. He again raised his sabre and would undoubtedly have killed him had not a soldier in the line pierced him with his bayonet. The soldier received the thanks of the General and a cross. 'That same day and the next we began to pursue the Turko- mans, who were very much disheartened by the result of their attack. We burned — as we had done before — graiu, houses, and everything which we met, and the cavalry, which was in advance, cut down every person, man, woman, or child. Many of the men had gone, although a few of them got up and fired at us. They were generally women and children whom we met. 362 TUEKISTAN. I saw much cruelty. The infantry came at a run behind, running fully eighteen miles, and continued the work of murder. 'This continued on the 16th and 17th. On the night of the 16th we had a severe fright. We took care to be far enough off from the camp of the Turkomans, and we posted extra guards, besides throwing up a small fortification. As an extra precaution the soldiers were commanded to sleep with their rifles, and not to stack them, lest the Turkomans should make a sudden rush and carry them off. In the middle of the night nine Persians ran away from the Turkomans and came to us. Two soldiers on guard saw their tall caps in the dark, and taking them for Turkomans they fired at them, killing one. This caused instant alarm in the camp, and much worse confusion prevailed than on the loth. The soldiers rushed for their muskets, and not finding them stacked — forgetting entirely that they had them on the ground with them — were in the wildest disorder, all exclaiming in one voice that the Turkomans had made an attack and carried off the muskets. It was some time before they recollected that they had slept with them instead of stacking them as usual. I saw Grolovatchef in his shirt sur- rounded by a lot of soldiers with their bayonets presented. He asked me what I had seen, and I told him "Nothing," that I found it was only a false alarm. He waited some little while, and soon everybody was laughing over the adventures of the night. Colonel N. — a very nervous man — went crying before the regiment, saying that the Turkomans had cut his throat, and continually spat, saying that it was blood, and it was some time before he got over the delusion. ' The rest of the night passed quietly. The next day we continued burning carts and grain, and this was the time when the Duke of Leuchtenberg was nearly killed. He was com- manding four sotnias of Cossacks, and imprudently went on in advp^nce. Four Cossacks went ahead of him, and crossed a little bridge over a canal ; a Turkoman rushed out, holding his pike by both hands, knocked over two of them at once, and wounded the other two. The Duke of Leuchtenberg went on apparently without noticing this. "We were all on the roadside, I was close behind him. He pulled up to one side to allow the Cossacks to cross the bridge. Seeing the Turkoman, I thought that the Duke would certain! v be killed; I rushed behind him, took out THE TREATY OF PEACE. 363 my excellent American rifle with explosive bullets, and aiming from behind him I fired at the Turkoman at a distance of about thirty feet, and fortunately killed him. I thought at first I had shot the Duke, for he put up his hand to his head and came near falling 1 from his horse. The ball must have passed within three inches of his ear. He immediately asked who it was, and the soldiers all called out " Grromof ! " and then he jumped to the ground, kissed me, and thanked me.' Notwithstanding the facts stated by Mr. Gromof, from all the information I have been able to collect, I quite agree with Mr. MacGahan, that General Golovatchef personally is innocent of the savagery which accompanied the Turkoman campaign. He did nothing but unwillingly obey imperative orders, and tried rather to mitigate than to increase their effect. Before the departure of the troops from Ilyali, General Kaufmann sent Colonel Scobelef to investigate the road from Zmukshir to Ortakuya, the place which the detachment of Markozof had not been able to reach. Leaving Zmukshir on August 16, Colonel Scobelef went south-west as far as the wells of Nefes-guli, six miles from Ortakuya, and returned on August 23 to Khiva, having ridden 373 miles in seven days. His reports and propositions having been approved by the Emperor, on August 24, the day after his return from the expedition, General Kaufmann signed a treaty of peace with the Khan of Khiva, the main provisions of which were as follows : — The Khan acknowledged himself as the faithful servant of the Emperor of Eussia, and renounced all direct friendly communications with the neighbouring Sovereigns and Khans, and the closing of any treaties witli them, engaging himself at the same time to undertake no military expedition without the knowledge and consent of the Kussian authorities. The frontier between the two countries was to be the Amu Darya, following its westernmost branch to the Sea of Aral, thence along the shore of that sea to Cape Urgu, and thence along the southern slope of the Ust-urt to the supposed former old bed of the Amu Darya. All the right bank of the Amu Darya and the territory on that side previously belonging to Khiva was annexed to Kussia. The navigation of the Amu Darya was exclusively reserved for Kussian boats, but Khivan and Buk- haran barges could have the right of navigating it bv special 364 TURKESTAN. permission from the Eussian authorities. The Eussians gained the right to establish ports, factories, and depots on the left bank wherever they wished, the safety of which was to be guaranteed by the Khan. The towns and villages of the Khan- ate were to be opened to Eussian commerce, and Eussian mer- chants and caravans could travel freely through the country. Eussian merchants who carried on trade with the Khanate were to be exempt from zekat, or any trade duty, and were to enjoy the right of gratuitous transport for their merchandise from Khiva into the neighbouring countries. They coidd also have resident agents, could acquire landed property, and could be taxed only by agreement with the Eussian authorities. Commercial engagements between Eussians and Khivans were to be strictly respected, and all complaints of Eussians against Khivans were to be at once examined and satisfied. Eussians were to have priority over Khivans for the settlement of their accounts. Complaints of Khivans against Eussian subjects were to be submitted to the nearest Eussian authorities. No persons of any nationality coming from Eussia were to be admitted without a proper Eussian passport, and criminals were to be immediately returned. Slavery was to remain abolished. Finally, an indemnity of 2,200,000 rubles (274,000^.) was imposed on the Khanate to cover the expenses of the war, but as the revenues of the Amir were insufficient to cover this amount, it was to be paid by terms with interest at five per cent. These payments were fixed at 100,000 rubles for the first two years, and gradually increased until 1881, when they were to be 200,000 rubles a year, and were to be paid either in Eussian paper money or in silver. The first payment was to be made on December 1 (13), 1873, and the last payment on November 1 (13), 1893. By the strictness of these conditions, and especially by that which agreed to annual payments of large sums out of a very meagre revenue for twenty years, Eussia secured the right of intervening in the Khanate at the slightest provocation. As if to render it impossible for the Foreign Office at St. Peters- burg to reject the treaty, it was published in the ' Turkistan Gazette ' at Tashkent before the authorities at St. Petersburg had had time to consider it. The annexation of the right bank of the Amu Darya called out many expressions of discontent in OFFICIAL EXPLANATIONS. 365 the English newspapers, as it seemed in disaccord with the promise of Count Schouvalof when he was in London in 1873 previous to the Khivan expedition. 1 The reproaches of the English press had, perhaps, some foundation, and certainly touched a sore spot at St. Petersburg. The official journal, therefore, in printing the treaty, published an account of the reasons which had forced Russia to take this step. 2 After speaking of the various attempts to bring the Khan to reason, the article goes on to say : ' After the want of success of these reiterated attempts, an expedition was decided upon. Its aim was first to chastise the Khan for the past, and then to create such a state of things as would protect our subjects from the Khivan s and Turkomans, and render possible the development of pacific commercial relations. The special difficulty of this problem was that the fundamental bases of all the states of Central Asia are so precarious and so unstable, that it was to be feared that in inflicting a merited chastise- ment upon Khiva that country would cease to exist as an independent state. Such a result would have in no way coincided with the views of our Grovernment, which hitherto has used its constant efforts to sustain and consolidate the autonomous existence of the other states bordering on us in Central Asia, as, for instance, Bukhara and Khokand. When Khiva had been occupied, and we were able to study the conditions of the life of the country, we became convinced that even with the best will on the part of the Khan and his counsellors to keep up good and neighbourly relations with us 1 The Eussians knew very well the English opinion about an expedition to Khiva from the questions which had been put to them before it was mooted. It ■wis understood at the time in St. Petersburg that up to this point the English had been careful to say nothing about the expedition proposed at that time, in order not to complicate the question of the Afghan boundary. The statement of Count Schouvalof was consequently in a measure unasked for. It -was believed, therefore, that he was unauthorised to make it in its fullest extent as a promise on the part of the Emperor, but merely as an expression of the Emperor's inten- tions at the time. It was seen that Khiva was an indefinite term, that could apply either to the city or to the Khanate. The city, indeed, was not by the treaty to be occupied by the Russians. Unfortunately, the intentions of the Emperor and of the Government at St. Petersburg in this, as in other cases, were over- ridden by the inexorable logic of facts. Circumstances arose which made it impossible to carry out these intentions. For a strong opinion on this subject see Sir H. Rawlinson's ' England and Russia in the East,' p. 381. London, 1875. 2 ' Government Messenger,' November 30 December 12), 1873. 366 TTJKKISTAN. he lacked the force necessary for the purpose, for his influence over the nomad and semi-nomad Turkomans was intermittent. Often it is null, and it sometimes happens that he, as well as" his subjects, have to submit to the ascendency of these brigands of the steppes. ' Thus after the departure of the troops of our expedition the same depredations and incursions would infallibly have begun again and would have demanded a new punishment, and then no effort of ours would have succeeded in preserving the autonomous existence of Khiva. ' It became, therefore, necessary to provide against a contin- gency so little to be desired, which would have exposed us to great sacrifices and to a grave deviation from the programme of our policy in Central Asia. ' For this reason it was judged indispensable to establish a fortified point provided with a sufficient garrison, in order to guard our frontier against the attacks of the brigands, to pro- tect our caravans and those of the Khivans, and at the same time to support the Khan if he were threatened by the Turko- mans. The best point to choose for the establishment of this fort would have been the southern coast of the Sea of Aral, which would have ensured us a communication by water with the mouths of the Syr Darya. Unfortunately this coast was covered with continuous marshes, presenting no locality favour- able to the erection of a fortified station. It therefore became necessary to construct this fort on the right bank of the Amu Darya. Besides this, it was necessary to assure the communi- cations of the fort and its garrison with the province of Tur- kistan. Without speaking of the difficulties of navigation of the Lower Amu Darya— in winter it becomes entirely im- passable, and there is no other way than the Steppe — it was judged indispensable to annex to our possessions the arid desert which extends between this fort and the province of Turkistan. Certainly, if any other guarantee could have been found which would have effectually assured us for the future, the preference would have been given to it. But sterile and burdensome as such acquisition is to us, it was inevitable, seeing the Khan of Khiva had declared he would be able to fulfil his obligations towards us only upon the absolute condition of having a Kussian fort near him as well as a body of Kussian troops. His wishes THE RUSSIANS WITHDRAW. 367 went even further. He asked again and again that Russian troops should in future be maintained in the very city of Khiva. Besides, as has been said above, this solution was the only one to guarantee our frontiers and commerce, and thus avoid in future the necessity of a new expedition with all the conse- quences that would follow, that is, the definitive destruction of the Khanate of Khiva, a consequence which would be entirely contrary to our political principles and our views upon Central Asia.' Two months having elapsed since the capture of the city of Khiva, and arrangements having been made, as it was supposed, for the settled government of the Khanate, the troops took their departure. The Mangyshlak detachment left Khiva on August 21, arriving on the 30th at Kungrad, and pursuing a more favourable route than they had taken on the advance, they reached Kinderli on September 24, having marched in going and returning 1,120 miles. Ey October 18 the troops had returned to Petrofsk in the Caucasus. The Orenburg detachment, after the Turkoman campaign, remained at Kyzyl-Takyr, and subsequently had been stationed for some days at Kunya Urgentch. Starting from there on August 13, they arrived at Emba on October 6, where they separated, returning to their old quarters at Uralsk, Orenburg, and Orsk. Without counting the moves made against the Turkomans at Sary Kamysh, this detachment had marched over 1,800 miles. The Turkistan detachment arrived at Hanki on August 24, and spent ten days in crossing the Amu Darya — a work of some difficulty, as the river there was divided into three branches, and it was necessary to cross two islands, changing the baggage each time from the boats to carts. Remaining some time on the other side of the river Shura- khana, where they were occupied in building the new fortress of Petro-Alexandrofsk, the troops finally started from that point on September 17, the cavalry being directed to go across the Kyzyl Kum to Perovsky, and the rest of the forces taking the former route by way of Khalata and Jizakh, and by October 25, the last echelon had arrived in Tashkent. The whole march, there and back, was 1,190 miles. General Kaufmann's reward for the Khivan campaign con- sisted in the Cross of St. George of the second class, given for 368 TURKISTAN. the defeat in a pitched battle of the enemy's army, consisting of at least 50,000 men, or for the capture of an enemy's country. Although this was not exactly what he desired, as he had expected to be made Count of Khiva in the event of the suc- cessful termination of the campaign, yet it placed him in the first rank of Eussian Generals, since there were only four or five others who had received similar decorations, and of the cavaliers of the first class there were none, except the Emperor of Germany, who had received it for the battle of Konigsgratz. The other officers were suitably rewarded, and the men received each a medal to be worn in memory of their participa- tion in the campaign and a ruble each extra pay. 1 The officials in Turkistan, however, took care that other honours should be in store for the troops on their return. Orders were issued that voluntary subscriptions should be made for a memorial to General Kaufmann and the Khivan cam- paign, which was to take the form of a scholarship at some university. As these orders were issued by their superiors, no officer felt at liberty to decline a subscription. In addition to this the inhabitants at Tashkent raised triumphal arches and spent a large sum of money for General Kaufmann's reception. The sum taken from the native population of Tashkent for this purpose, under the head of ' general expenditure,' was at one time 15,000 rubles, and at another time a sum of nearly an equal amount. Seeing what was being done in other places, Colonel Golof, the Prefect of Perovsky, had so far pre- vailed upon the Kirghiz that they in the same voluntary way subscribed 3,000 rubles for the Khivan memorial. The cost of the expedition it is impossible to estimate with accuracy. When the campaign was decided upon General Kaufmann asked the ministry of finance for 300,000 rubles, but this sum was expended long before the troops had actually left Tashkent. The only data that have yet been published are those for the expenses of provisions and transport of the Orenburg detachment, which amount to 1,423,735 rubles (nearly 208,000/-.). On this basis the expedition must have cost at least 7,000,000 rubles (nearly a million sterling). The expenses of the expedition were, however, in a slight degree 1 The best paid private soldier in tlio Russian army receives, besides rations and uniform, only 3r. 60k. (or about ten shillings) per annum. THE AMU DARYA RAYON.' 369 lessened by not paying for the camels which had been used, although unfortunately the loss fell upon the poor Kirghiz. The Tashkent detachment, as I have already stated, took 8,800 camels from the various districts, for which they agreed to pay 50 rubles each in case the animals died. As the camels nearly all perished, it became necessary to pay 400,000 rubles. The Prefect of Perovsky, thinking this a good occasion for showing his zeal, and the good feeling of the Kirghiz popu- lation of his district, informed the people that the Eussian Government would never pay for these camels, and that it would be much better to make a present of them to the Eussians. By the use of threats and proper persuasions, he succeeded in getting them to sign an address to General Kauf- mann to that effect. His example was followed in some of the other districts, and the result is that most of the inhabitants feel that they have been actually robbed of the camels by the Government. The action of the Kirghiz was reported to the authorities at St. Petersburg, and before the real explanation of the matter had become known there — although as late as June 4 (16), 1874 — General Kaufmann succeeded in obtaining a rescript signed by the Emperor thanking the inhabitants of the province of Turkistan for their noble conduct, and their loyalty expressed by such a great sacrifice. The newly annexed territory at the mouth of the Amu Darya, to which was given the name of Amu Darya Eayon, con- tained about 216,000 inhabitants, the majority of whom were nomad Kirghiz, Karakalpaks, and Turkomans- and five towns, the chief of which were Shura-khana and Tchimbai. The region was not very productive, but it was thought that by putting a tax of 3 rubles 60 kopeks on each of the 6,000 settled population, and a tax of 3 rubles per head on the others, that, together with the bazaar and trade duties, a revenue of 200,000 rubles per annum could be obtained. To keep the province in order, a fort was built in the garden belonging to the Vizier Mat Niaz, six miles from the ferry at Hanki, and two from Shura-khana. This was garrisoned by nine companies of infantry and four sotnias of Cossacks, while the works themselves were defended by four guns, four mortars, and several cannon taken at Khiva. The chief command of VOL. II. B B 370 TURKISTAN. the troops, as well as of the district, was given to Colonel Ivariof. It had been foreseen by many persons acquainted with affairs of Central Asia, that the campaign against the Turko- mans would excite them against Eussian rule, would cause them to take the first opportunity of attacking the Khan as well as the Eussian troops, and would lead to serious results. The Grovernor-Greneral of Orenburg stated with regard to this, that it would be necessary to repeat expeditions against the Turkomans for many years, that the region of Khiva would become a second Caucasus, and that in the end the Eussians would probably be obliged to take Merv. This prediction was not long in being partly realised. In October 1873, the Yomuds, out of revenge against the Khan and the Uzbeks and the Kirghiz who had favoured the Eussians, began plundering the towns and villages, and compelled the Kirghiz to seek shelter on the Eussian or right bank of the Amu Darya. A little before, a caravan of 100 camels, transporting stores to Petro-Alexandrofsk from Khalata, was attacked and pillaged by a band of Tekke Turkomans. Another caravan coming down the river from Bukhara to Khiva, was attacked by Turkomans, who fired upon it, and forced the men to abandon their boats. The Eussian troops were immediately ordered to descend the river as far as Utch-Utchak, where the Tekkes had crossed the Amu Darya. On October 8, after having proceeded 133 miles, they came upon them on the banks of the Amu Darya and completely routed them. Nearly all those who were not killed were drowned, as only eight succeeded in reaching the opposite shore, while five were made prisoners. The various bands of Tekke Turkomans then retreated to Merv. Colonel Ivanof next proceeded down the Amu Darya to the Kuvansh- Jarma branch and to Daukara. This movement had the effect of causing the Turkomans, who were ignorant of its object, to cease for a time from their depredations, so that the Eussians would need no excuse for crossing to their side of the river. As the result of his explorations, Colonel Ivanof thought it best to remove the greater portion of the garrison of Petro- Alexandrofsk to Nukus, a point of considerable strategical im- portance, situated at the beginning of the Delta. Here was the best passage over the river, and here also was the terminus IVANOFS RAID. 371 of a good road going to Kazala and the Syr Darya. Besides this, near Nukus there was abundance of saksaul and other shrubs suitable for fuel, and the proximity of the large town of Tchimbai assured the troops of a sufficiency of provisions. It was found that the fort of Petro-Alexandrofsk had been con- structed in a very unhealthy locality, so that a large number of soldiers were constantly in the hospital. About this time the Khan of Khiva sent a mission to Colonel Tvanof with 70,000 rubles as part of the tribute which he was to pay to Eussia for that year. He also, at the sugges- tion of a Kussian officer, assembled the Turkoman elders and made them promise to live in peace, to return all the property seized from the Kirghiz and the Uzbegs, and to send to Khiva all the Turkomans who had been guilty of pillage. Although the Turkomans had been frightened into quiet by Colonel Ivanof's march, yet they immediately broke out again as soon as he returned to the fort. They again began to pillage, plundered the inhabitants all along the bank of the Amu Darya, and even crossed over to the right bank, with the inten- tion of attacking the Kirghiz about Daukara, and burned forage and tents that had been prepared for the use of the Eussians by the inhabitants. Colonel Ivanof was therefore obliged to set out with another expedition, which left the fort of Petro-Alexandrofsk on January 4, 1874. He advanced to Nukus without meeting the enemy, and then hearing that they were collected in large numbers on the Laudan canal, called out the reserve troops from the fort, returned up the river to Kiptchak, and crossed it on the ice. The left bank of the river for several miles was lined with large bodies of Turkomans who followed the movements of the Eussians, and occasionally fired at them. After informing the Khan of the reasons of his presence on Khivan territory, and asking him to send a Khivan agent to him, he marched to Kazi Murad, a Turkoman encampment. The Cossacks were sent in front to ravage the country, and so well did they perform their duty, that when the main body arrived there was nothing to be seen but smoking ruins. Colonel Ivanof had proceeded but a few miles further, when, to his great surprise, the country was found to be entirely under water, which was the more astonishing as in winter the B B 2 372 TURKISTAN. canals are all dry. It was found, however, that the Turkomans had cut the dykes of the canals. As the water was rising rapidly, it was necessary to recall the Cossacks who were burning houses and encampments in all directions, and to return to Kazi Murad. Thence the column marched south to the town of Mangyt, where was the only remaining bridge over the canal, and came upon the winter encampment of the (xultcha Turkomans, which they at once demolished, the Cossacks per- forming the work of destruction at a distance of a few versts off, while the infantry did it in an equally effective manner along the line of march. At Mangyt Colonel Ivanof was informed by the Khan that the Yomuds of Hazavat had submitted. Although he did not fully believe this, he agreed to respect their lands and turned southward. The Tchaudurs, warned by the fate of the Grul- tchas, at once gave in their submission, and agreed to pay the contribution demanded of them and restore the booty they had taken. After reaching Old Porsu, where Prince Bekovitch and the Russians were murdered in 1717, the troops returned to Kiptchak and waited until the river was free from ice, when, on February 5, they crossed over to the right bank. The Bek of Kiptchak being suspected of complicity in the Turkoman raid, was removed by the Khan at Ivanofs request. The raid of Colonel Ivanof had such an effect on the Turkomans that, during the summer of 1874, they remained tolerably quiet, and the Russians had leisure to occupy them- selves with the construction of the fort at Nukus. But the site selected, which had been surveyed in winter, was no healthier than Petro-Alexandrofsk, and had the disadvantage of being sometimes overflowed. In addition to this, work had been commenced in a place where building material — i.e. clay for making bricks — was not to be found, and had to be brought some distance at considerable expense. It was therefore decided to leave the main body of troops at Petro-Alexandrofsk, and to erect only a small fortified post at Nukus, which would accommodate 350 men. This was ready by October. During the summer new troops came from Kazala, and, at the same time, those soldiers whose term of service had expired were sent back. These movements were interpreted by the Turkomans to mean that the Russians were weak, and were EXPLOKING EXPEDITIONS. 373 endeavouring to make a great display of their forces by sending out soldiers in boats to Kitchkine-ata, then across the Tchimbai, and back again in carts to Nukus. There were rumours, also, of a league being entered into with the Karakalpaks who up to this time had been comparatively peaceable. Colonel Ivanof, therefore, summoned the Biis of the Karakalpaks to meet him at Tchimbai. The Biis were so frightened at being called, that they assembled the next day, when they were told that they must furnish lists of the population. This, upon various pretexts, all but two declined to do, whereupon they were immediately surrounded with Cossacks and arrested. Being told they would not be freed until the lists had been presented, they agreed to furnish them, and, on the next day, handed them in. Colonel Ivanof informed them that the lists repre- sented less than the actual population, and then the Biis — expecting death, as the Cossacks had their rifles pointed at them — immediately added more names. Unquestionably they would have made additions as long as the Russian officer desired. ' By this arrest we not only did not attain our purpose, but we ex- cited the ill-feeling of the population against us, as they greatly reverence their Biis.' 1 ^Notwithstanding the peaceful aspect of affairs, Colonel Ivanof did not consider it wise for the Amii Darya exploring expedition sent out by the Imperial Geographical Society to ascend the Amu Darya further than Petro-Alexandrofsk, 2 nor to cross to the left bank of the river, as the chief problems to be settled by the expedition were on the left bank of the river, i.e. the former channel of the Oxus, and the irrigation system. The expedition, therefore, did not accomplish as much as was expected. It was under the leadership of Colonel Stoletof, and consisted of Severtsof, the naturalist ; Smirnof, the botanist ; Sobolef, for ethnological and historical research ; Karazin, the artist of the party ; and of several topographers and lesser officers. It was also accompanied by Major Herbert Wood, an English officer of the Eoyal Engineers. 3 1 Golos No. 231, 1874. Letter from Tchimbai, July 25 (August 6). 2 It had been the original intention to proceed to the Bukharan boundary and perhaps even further. 3 The book of Major Wood, ' The Shores of Lake Aral,' his articles in the 'Geographical Magazine.' and his papers read before the Eoyal Geographical 374 TUEEISTAN. At about the same time with this expedition, another one, under the auspices of the Society of the Lovers of Natural History at Moscow, called the Aralo-Caspian expedition, was sent out to make surveys and explorations in the Ust-Urt, and to investigate the level of the Aral Sea, as well as to make geological and zoological researches. In connection with the Amu Darya exploring expedition the steamer ' Perovsky,' a vessel drawing three and a half feet of water, succeeded in ascending the river as far as Nukus, which it reached on August 6, and subsequently went up as far as Petro-Alexandrofok. 1 The trip to Nukus was accomplished by a new route. Vain efforts had been made to ascend the Ulkun and Kitchkine ; finally, the steamer went to the Grulf of Tustche-bas, ascended the Yany-su, although with some difficulty on account of the shoals, to the Lake Daukara, and then went up the Kuvansh-Jarma to Nukus. It is considered, however, that the question as to the feasibility of steam navi- gation on the Amu Darya cannot be settled by the observations made during this one trip, and that further explorations of the channel are necessary. In the autumn of 1874 the disorders of the Turkomans on the left bank of the Amu Darya again began. The Tekkes from Merv sent down a band and committed some depredations to the south of Pitniak. Merchants with caravans coming from Bukhara were also attacked and pillaged, and a party of Persians returning to their country from Bukharan territory were attacked. A troop of Cossacks with a rocket battery was therefore sent up the river as far as Meshekli, and produced for the moment good results. During the course of December the Khan of Khiva sent the last payment of 100,000 rubles due from him for that year, and promised to collect if possible something from the Turko- mans. He professed, however, his inability to do anything with these unruly subjects, feeling the necessity of Kussian aid. It was finally thought best by Colonel Ivanof to repeat the Society and Geographical Society of Geneva contain so far the best account that has been published of the expedition. Articles by Stoletof and Sobolef relating to special points of the expedition have appeared in the bulletin of the Imperial Russian Geographical Society. 1 Several interesting papers on this expedition have appeared by Colonel Thilo, Mr. Barbotte de Marny, and Mr. Bogdanof. THE TURKOMANS AGAIN PUNISHED. 375 lesson he had given the Turkomans the year before ; and there- fore starting from Petro-Alexandrofsk on January 19, and crossing the river near Hodjeili on the 28th, he made an excur- sion over the whole of the Turkoman territory, recrossing the river at Hanki on February 13. He visited in succession all the tribes of the Turkomans, except the Tchaudurs and Kara- jengeldi, who had been punished in 1874. The detachment met with no resistance and did not fire a single shot, although during its march through the encampments of the Kill Yomuds it destroyed everything within its reach. Every tribe was so frightened by this that they at once sent their elders to proffer their submissiou, asking for peace, and offering to pay the war indemnity which had previously been levied upon them. It was, therefore, necessary to punish only the few villages of the Imral tribe which sent no deputation. As to the punish- ment inflicted upon the Kid Yomuds I quote from an official report, 'Invalid,' No. 55, 1875:— ' On January 29, after crossing to the right bank, the detach- ment marched upon Kunya Urgentch. From his place of crossing Colonel Ivanof sent Murtaza Bii, the Bek of Hodjeili, to all the Turkoman tribes with proclamations calling them to order and obedience. Giving out that from Kunya Urgentch he would move to Kyzyl Takyr, Colonel Ivanof on the 29th marched thirty-three versts and encamped at the canal of Esaul Bashi near Kunya Urgentch. On the 13th the column passing through Kunya Urgentch, instead of moving south, turned to' the north-west and made for the Kul Yomud settle- ments, which began eight versts from the town and extended on both sides of the Khan-ab canal. The appearance of the column in these encampments was entirely unexpected ; the settlements next to Kunya Urgentch were more especially taken by sur- prise, and no one had time to leave. The Kul Yomuds, numbering about 1,000 kibitkas, had taken an even more active part than the other tribes in the recent disorders ; they had pre- vented compliance with our demands, had attacked the Persians on their way home in August 1874, had refused to obey the Khan, and had assaulted Mat Niaz and other dignitaries of the Khan who visited them in June 1874 to warn them of the con- sequences of their conduct. For these reasons Colonel Ivanof determined to punish the Kul Yomuds severely, so as to induce 376 TUKKISTAN. the other tribes to submit and fulfil our demands. Stationing his troops in the grounds of Boyandur, he detached 150 Cos- sacks under Colonel Novotreshtshenof with orders to fire all the villages within five versts of the camp. The troops were especially enjoined to confine themselves to the destruction of houses and movables and the seizure of cattle, without touching the inhabitants. The Cossacks rapidly carried out the task set them, and within two hours the country traversed was laid waste ; fire and smoke rising in every direction indicated that the threatened punishment had overtaken the guilty. The first hut destroyed by the Cossacks belonged to Bakar, who led the Kul Yomud bands in their attack on the Persians ; Bakar himself was taken prisoner and handed over to the Khivan authorities. To give the Kul Yomuds, who were said to be gathering for defence at a medresse fifteen versts further on, no time to recover, Colonel Ivanof, leaving the greater part of the detachment at Boyandur under the command of Lieutenant- Colonel Komarof, put himself at the head of three companies, two sotnias, two guns, and a rocket division, and in the night of the 30th marched to the remoter settlements. The rumour of a hostile gathering proved unfounded ; on the contrary, all the aids were found deserted, and there were signs that the in- habitants had left in a hurry and taken with them only their cattle and most valuable property. Successively traversing and destroying all the various settlements of the Kul Yomuds, the medresse and encampment of Ata Murad and Avas Turdi alone excepted, the column returned to Boyandur on the 31st. The Kul Yomuds migrated further west in the direction of Sary Kamish. When near Khiva Colonel Ivanof received a visit from the Khan, which he subsequently returned in the capital himself, where he and his escort were well received by all the Uzbeg population. In these interviews Colonel Ivanof gave the Khan to understand that the Eussian troops could not always come to his assistance, and that it was time for him to take some means for keeping the Turkomans in check without Eussian aid. He urged him immediately to send troops to arrest the originators of the disorders, and recommended him no longer to treat the Turkomans like a privileged part of the population but to place them on an equality with the rest of his subjects. TURKOMAN CONTRIBUTIONS. 377 Not approving of the idea of the Khan to cut off the water supply from the Turkomans, he counselled him on the contrary to provide them with water on condition that any new canals they should require should be dug by themselves and not by the Uzbeks as before. Colonel Ivanof also insisted that the Khan should immediately impose some tax, even though a slight one, upon the Turkomans, for only on payment of a tax ■vould they begin to consider themselves the Khan's subjects. He recommended the removal of the more troublesome elders, and said that it would be well not always to use harsh measures but sometimes to employ mildness and flattery, as the majority of the inhabitants now showed themselves to be really desirous of living in obedience. The Khan then proposed to make a personal visit to the Turkomans, an idea which was warmly approved of by Colonel Ivanof, who thought that a personal visit would acquaint him with the real state of affairs, and procure for him the goodwill of the other inhabitants. During the expedition the Turkomans paid 26,000 rubles of the penalties imposed upon them in 1873 and 1874, and soon after the return of the troops they sent 10,000 more. 1 Subsequently a further sum was received from the Khan on the part of the Turkomans, as well as 2,278 rubles as an indemnity from the Bukharans for the sheep stolen at Kabakli, and a further indemnity of 661 rubles to the merchant Dukof, whose caravan was robbed by the Turkomans in January 1874. In accordance with the advice of Colonel Ivanof the Khan did make a tour through the Turkoman country, where he was very well received, and imposed upon them a tax amounting altogether to 40,770 tillas, i.e. about 73,000 rubles. In November 1873 after the Khivan expedition, the Grand Duke Michael, the Lieutenant of the Caucasus, presented to the Emperor a project for forming all the Steppe region between the Caspian and the Sea of Aral into a military district sub- ordinate to the Caucasus. General Lomakin was at once sent to Krasnovodsk to draw up a memorandum on the measures 1 Up to the end of March, 1875, the Turkomms had paid 67,287 rubles. The "whole sum imposed upon them in 1873 was 418,500 rubles, of which 261,837 rubles were paid, leaving a balance of 156,663 rubles still due from them. 378 TUKKISTAST. which might develop the whole region and bring proper Rus- sian influence to bear there. While there he had a conference with some of the elders of the Turkomans and engaged thern as well as the leaders of the other tribes to come to Krasnoyodsk in the spring of the next year, 1874. By the regulations for the government of the new Trans- Caspian district which were signed by the Emperor on March 21, 1874, — although the project had just been rejected by an Imperial Commission, in consequence of the objections of the Foreign Office and of the Finance Ministry — the boundaries were stated to be from Mertvii Kultuk on the north to the river Attrek, the boundary between Eussia and Persia, on the south, and from the eastern shore of the Caspian Sea to the western boundary of the Khanate of Khiva, including in it also the islands near the coast. The region was divided into two prefectures, that of Mangyshlak with the fort of Alexandrofsky, and that of Krasnovodsk, which was temporarily under the personal supervision of the Governor. The regulations were in nearly all respects similar to those established for the Kirghiz in the provinces of Orenburg and Turkistan. Taxes were to be levied on the Kirghiz at the rate of three rubles a kibitka, but upon the Turkomans at half that rate. The regulations, however, contained an expla- natory clause that this kibitka tax would be imposed pro- portionately to their degree of submission to the Kussian protection and authority. Further taxes for the purpose of native administration were also to be imposed at rates to be decided upon by the inhabitants themselves, as in Turkistan. General Lomakin was at once appointed Governor of this district. The chief reason for the formation of the Trans-Caspian district was probably not so much for the purpose of intro- ducing order among the nomads as to give the large army stationed in the Caucasus something to do. With this view both the Grand Duke and General Lomakin occasionally make proposals for new expeditions, which sometimes even involve an increase of territory. In 1874 a reconnaissance was made up the Attrek and a small fortification established there. In 1875 propositions were made for another and a much stronger reconnaissance in the same direction, with the idea of establishing a strong fortified post EXPLORATION OF THE UZBOI. 379 about sixty miles from the mouth of the Attrek which would be of use as a sanitarium for the troops, and would, at the same time, be of service in keeping the Turkomans quiet, or ' for au j ulterior movement.' This plan, however, required a great expenditure of money, and when proposed to the Emperor was forbidden. Permission was given to send out the ordinary reconnaissance parties only as is customary at all frontier posts during the summer months. In accordance with this permission General Lomakin started out with several companies of infantry, one sotnia of Cossacks, four guns and a rocket battery — in all about 1,000 men— for the exploration of the Uzboi, the old bed of the Oxus, as far as Sary Kamysh, which, it will be remembered, was the farthest point reached by Colonel Glukhofsky from the Khivan side, in the explorations during the summer of 1873. The pack-camels for the expedition, 574 in number, were brought to Krasnovodsk from Fort Alexandrofsky, Mangyshlak, under the convoy of one company of infantry, and a sotnia of Cossacks. The route followed was along the east coast of the Caspian to Kinderli, and thence along the narrow neck of the land separating Kara Bugaz bay from the sea. It was necessary for the camels to swim over a strait of 164 yards, and, in spite of the strong current, only two were lost. The whole march was of more than 400 miles, and was accom- plished in twenty-three days, although in one part for fifty- seven miles no water was found, and the soldiers were mostly young men on their first campaign. From Krasnovodsk part of the troops were taken in boats over the Michailovsky Gulf and part marched round by land to the rendezvous at the wells at Mula Kari, which the whole expedition left on June 8, reaching the Uzboi on the 11th. The Uzboi presented the plainly marked bed of a vast river. The road along it was constantly cut up by great sandy hills sometimes seventy feet high, and it was besides frequently necessary to cross from one side of the Uzboi to the other, descending and climbing the steep and almost perpendicular banks. In the bed there were many lakes of salt and fresh water, and many wells, in which, however, the water was generally salt and bitter, or sulphurous. The march through the sand was very difficult, especially from the wells at Arvatu to Igdy where for forty miles there was 380 TUKKISTAN. no water. Igdy was reached on June 20, the soldiers bearing the march well, having" constantly a three days' supply of water, as well as pressed vegetables and extract of meat. They were obliged twice a day to drink tea. On June 22, a small party consisting of a topographer, a technician, and a commercial agent were sent out under an escort to Bala Ishem and thence to Sary Kamysh, where in accordance with a previous agreement they were met by an escort from the Khan of Khiva. The main body of the expedition meanwhile, remained for ten days at Igdy, waiting for news, and sending out every day eastward to cover the reconnaissance. This camp life was very painful as the heat sometimes rose to 110° Fahr. in the shade and to more than 122° in the sun, and the constant wind covered the men with sand and dust, while much suffering was caused by the bad water. On receiving news of the safe arrival of the topographical party at Sary Kamysh the expedition started back from Igdy on July 1, and on the 15th arrived at its starting place, Mula Kari, with thirteen men ill in consequence of the heat, two having died on the road. The surveying party met at Tcharishli supplies of water sent by the Khivan authorities, made a complete survey of Sary Kamysh, and then returned by a more direct way and reached Krasnovodsk even before the main detachment of Lomakin. The expedition was put to no trouble by the Turkomans ; on the contrary General Lomakin several times received depu- tations from them. The first party, consisting of several Tekke Turkomans, came to him at Igdy, with declarations of submission and proffers of service. Others joined the detachment on the return journey, bringing for sale carpets, flour, and even sheep, with other provisions. The impression produced by this expedition resulted in the whole steppe becoming quiet, and 500 Persian slaves freed at Khiva passed safely through the Turkoman steppe on their way home. After giving his troops a short rest, General Lomakin set out again for Tchikishlar, and from there pursued the recon- naissance of the Attrek as far as Tchat. About 100 miles to the south of Mula Kari are the great fresh lakes of Tchairdy and Bugdaiby. Here were found to be great encampments of the THE ATTEEK EXPEDITION. 381 Yomuds of the Attrek and the Gfurgan, who had come there for the second time that year, after having finished their harvests. There were as many as 2,000 kibitkas, and it was remarkable that these were belonging to two colonies formerly hostile, the Jafarbai and Ak Atabai. They had been reconciled by the Eussians in 1874, and since that time had agreed to camp to- gether, and to organise a mounted force of 500 men to watch the movements of the Tekkes. On the Attrek also Greneral Lomakin met with many en- campments of the Tcharva or nomad Yomuds of different tribes, having fully 4,000 kibitkas. These, — the most savage and rudest of all the Tcharva nomads acknowledging Eussian authority, and the terror of the Persians at Astrabad, — were up to 1873 implacably hostile to the Eussians. Greneral Lomakin reported that all had now changed, for not only did they show no un- easiness at the presence of the Eussians, but they even met them with the greatest good will. Twenty-five miles south east of Bugdaili, the Eussians found the ruined town of Mest-devran (Mestorian), which, from its size and from the remains of aqueducts, must have been at one time a very large and important town. Masjid, a few miles further on, appears to have been an ancient necropolis, being full of temples and mortuary mosques. All of this region was watered by means of aqueducts brought from the Attrek, which Crossed the river Sumbar in large brick pipes over two large bridges. The traces of these conduits were clearly seen on the banks of the Sumbar, and the direction of the aqueduct was traced for nearly its whole length. A range of mounds crowned with small forts, extends all the way from Tchat to Mest-devran, and from there on to Kara-tepe on the Caspian, south of the Gfreen Mound. These forts were in all probability intended to protect the aqueducts and the tilled land from incursions of nomads. The expeditions of Colonel Stebnitzky, Colonel Markozof, and Greneral Lomakin, have acquainted us somewhat with the Turkomans inhabiting the steppe eastward of the Caspian. The three branches to be found there are the Yomuds, the Gfoklans, and the Tekkes. The Yomuds on the Caspian belong to the tribe Kara-tchuka, and are divided according to their kind of life — settled or nomad, — into Tchomura and Tcharva. 382 TUBKISTAN. The Tcharva Yomuds live in the valley of the lower Attrek, fishing in the mouths of the rivers and planting the fertile lands. Pasture is easily found along - the banks of the Grurgan for their cattle. They have but few camels. The Tcharva Yomuds remain between the Gurgan and the Attrek during the winter months. In March they migrate to the north of the Attrek, and encamp there on the right bank, or near lakes Tchairdy and Bugdaily, along the Uzboi or even near the Balkan mountains, extending north as far as the Grulf of Kara Bugaz, and east as far as the wells of Igdy. The Tchomura and Tcharva are closely connected. Sometimes a father will be settled and his sons nomads ; and sometimes a nomad will become settled or a settler will turn nomad. Alto- gether they are estimated to number 15,500 kibitkas, or about 80,000 souls. East of the Yomuds live the Groklans, of whom we have as yet but vague information. Nearly all that is known is that their encampments extend as far as the source of the Grurgan and the country of the Kurds. There are also some of them on the upper Sumbar and the Tchandyr. They number but 3,000 kibitkas, or about 15,000 souls. They were formerly much more numerous, but many of them were taken by force to Khiva, and others went there of their own accord to fight the Persians at the time of the campaign of Mahmud Shah on the Grurgan. Nearly all are agriculturists and some cultivate silkworms. As they are not nomads they have but few camels. The Tekke Turkomans occupy a long narrow oasis extending from north-west to south-east between the chain of the Kuren Dag and a series of sandy hills about 20 miles from the moun- tains. It is said that the constant northern winds are removing these hills further to the south and thus diminishing the area of the oasis. This valley, which is chiefly known by the name of Arkatch, is watered by numerous streams descending from the Kuren Dag, and is excellent for agriculture. A series of 43 small forts extends the whole length of this valley from Kyzyl-arvat, 45 miles south-east of Igdy, to the south-west of Merv. The Tekkes can be considered as half sedentary. Their villages are large and they submit to a certain point to the authority of their elders, thus constituting a society in some measure organised. The result of this is that among the othei THE TEKKES. 383 tribes who are scattered and have no internal organisation, the Tekkes are considered the strongest. With their excellent horses they have become the terror of their Persian neighbours on account of their raids or alaman which sometimes extend to Mashad and even to Herat. In 1872 Colonel Markozof and Colonel Stoletof made a re- connaissance of a part of the Tekke oasis and visited some of the forts, which were abandoned by the inhabitants at their approach. These circumstances permitted the Russians to see a Tekke aul in its ordinary state. The kibitkas were arranged on the two sides of the fort. In the kibitkas were found bags of lice, wheat, and sorghum, carpets, felts, and household articles. In one was an apparatus for melting copper, and in others were agricultural tools of primitive forms, and looms for weaving carpets. Horses, cattle, pigs and fowls wandered about the kibitkas. Near the forts were small gardens planted with poplars and sown with cotton. Small water-mills were also established near each fort. The inhabitants of the Tekke oasis, as far as the fortress of Anev, called themselves Akhal to distinguish them from the other Tekkes further south near Merv. The Tekkes are nominally under the Khan of Khiva. Formerly they paid annually one camel for each fortress, which has now been re- placed by about 12 rubles a year for each canal. About seven years ago the Akhal Tekkes were governed by an independent Khan named Nur Verdy Khan. He enjoyed absolute authority, but at last, tired of the constant quarrels of his tribe, he abdi- cated and retired to Merv. Since then there has been com- plete anarchy. The Akhal Tekkes are divided into two distinct families, the Tokhtamish and Utamish, who are always rivals. The Tokhtamish, who are three times more numerous than the Utamish, usually have the upper hand, but the others have always obeyed with bad grace. They all feel themselves menaced on one side by Russia, on another by the Persian Kurds, and on the third by the Khivan Yomuds. They felt the necessity of unity, and at the end of January 1875, a council was held, at which several thousands of persons were present from the fortresses and tribes, and after a long debate they elected Berdy Murad Khan, the son of the former Khan Nur Verdy. He refused the position unless they conferred upon him the right of life and death, and gave him the heads of four 384 TTJRKISTAN. brigands who had ieen guilty of many murders and robberies shortly before. This was refused by the assembly, and the fortresses in small groups elected separate chiefs for themselves, the five nearest the Eussian frontier known as Besh Kala and peopled by Tokhtamish, being placed under the rule of Son Khan. Most of these Turkomans have been brought into some kind of relations with the Eussians since the formation of the Trans-Caspian district. The friendly intercourse was begun with the Jafarbai and Atabai Yoinuds in 1873-4, and assist- ance was promised them against the Tekkes, and it was sug- gested that the Eussians should undertake to obtain the release from the Tekkes of 500 prisoners in the hands of the Kurds. In 1874 also General Lomakin addressed letters to the Tekke Khans and Aksakals advising them to be at peace with Eussia. A month later an answer was received from Son Khan and two others in the name of the Tekkes, declaring their readiness to obey orders of the Eussian Government, and protect Eussian and KM van caravans passing between Krasnovodsk and Sary Kamysh. They also solicited Eussian protection against the Persian Kurds and Goklans, desiring at the same time to enter into communication with the Khan of Khiva and the Eussians on the Amu Darya, in order to restrain the Khivans from molesting them on their camping ground. In answer General Lomakin demanded the release of the artillery soldier who was a prisoner at Merv, but neither he nor Colonel Ivanof has been able to obtain it, and the soldier is said to be still in the hands of the Turkomans. This beginning of friendly relations with the Turkomans did not prevent a band of 500 strong of the Aral Turkomans in October 1874 from falling upon and pillaging the village of Dashly, 25 miles from Krasnovodsk, carrying off 150 prisoners and leaving 80 killed. Letters were sent to Sofi Khan demand- ing the return of the inhabitants and of the booty, but this apparently has been followed by no result. This action of the Turkomans led some of the Eussian newspapers to insist upon the necessity of bringing all the Turkomans under control, and for that purpose fortifying the line of the Attrek, which was now acknowledged as the boundary of Persia, although it was contended that the natural boundary was RUSSIA AND PERSIA. 385 the Kara-su, to the south of the Gurgan. 1 The Attrek was first officially recognised by Eussia as its boundary with Persia in 1869. It appears that on receiving intelligence of the cam- paign of Krasnovodsk in that year the Shah, on December 16, asked the Kussian Minister, Eeger, to obtain assurance from the Emperor that the movement at Krasnovodsk had as its only aim the development of trade with Turkistan, and that it was not the intention of the Eussians to mix in the affair of the Yomuds living on the banks of the Gurgan and the Attrek, and tbat they would not construct any fortifications on the banks of these rivers or at their mouths. Beger telegraphed about this to Prince Gortchakof, and received a reply saying that the Imperial Govern- ment admitted the sovereignty of Persia as far as the Attrek, and consequently had no intention of raising fortifications in that iocality. This answer was communicated to the Shah on De- cember 25, and produced such a pleasant impression that three days after the Persian Government permitted the Eussian merchant-steamers to go to Murdab and Enzeli equally with sailing vessels, a right which Eussian diplomats had for ten years vainly endeavoured to secure. 2 The newspaper article to which I have just referred seems to have been written by a person acquainted with the course of events, for propositions have been made to the Central Govern- ment for occupation of territory beyond the Attrek, for the purpose of putting down the Turkomans, and there is reason to believe that the idea of the annexation of the whole Caspian coast now belonging to Persia has been brought up for consideration. In spite of what happened in 1873, before the Khivan expedition, the Persian Government — owing perhaps to English suggestions — has strongly objected to any interference by General Lomakin in the affairs of the Turkomans on the southern side of the Attrek, and a sentence in one of his pro- clamations to the Turkomans called out a rather sharp corre- spondence. There can be little doubt that the relations with the Turkomans will compel Eussia to advance as far as Merv, 1 'St. Petersburg Viedomosti,' January 14 (26), 1875. 2 Terentief, ib. p. 98. See also the despatches of Mr. Ronald Thomson in the Parliamentary return of Correspondence respecting Central Asia, No. II., 187«5| pp. 20, 25, 39. VOL. II. C C 386 TCJRKISTAN. and possibly permanently to occupy that town. It is very questionable, however, whether such a step would have the im- portance which has been attributed to it by influential organs of the English press. Merv is a half-ruined village in the Tekke oasis, and as a base of operations is in no way superior to the Amu Darya, except by being a short distance nearer the confines of India. Even in case of war it could never be more than a base of supplies. Another consequence of the Khivan campaign has been the establishment of direct, though infrequent, commercial relations between the Khivan oasis and Krasnovodsk. Several caravans have been sent that way, most of which arrived in safety, although one was attacked and pillaged. Several of these caravans have belonged to Colonel Grlukhofsky, who in 1874 had an idea of starting trade with Afghanistan, and sent a caravan as far as Mashad. A writer in the ' Allgemeine Zeitung ' of March 3, 1875, on the subject of these caravans, accused the Eussian Government of having an underhand policy in sending out military expeditions under thi guise of trading caravans. In this, injustice has been done bo ' to the Eussian Government and to Colonel Grlukhofsky. The Eussian Grovern- rnent allows its officers to engage in commercial pursuits, when not incompatible with their official duties. Of this St. Peters- burg is filled with examples. Colonel Grlukhofsky is a young and ambitious officer, who has taken a distinguished part in the Central Asiatic campaigns. He has a large private fortune, and is, moreover, something of an enthusiast, and believes that the Khivan oasis is immensely rich, and that with proper effort its trade can be developed, as well as that the Amu Darya can be turned into its ancient channel in the Caspian Sea. It is true that valuable political information may be obtained by means of these caravans, but is not important information, geographical, political, &c, always obtained by commercial ventures in a new country ? CONCLUSION. 387 CONCLUSION. An attempt has been made in the preceding- pages to portray accurately and impartially the social and economical condition of the various countries of Central Asia and the present political relations of those countries, as well as to show the way in which those relations have been brought about. An impartial ob- server will, I think, be convinced that these relations are the natural consequence of many simple and unforeseen circum- stances, and of accidents which possibly may not have been sufficiently guarded against, and that it is unnecessary to assume the theory of a settled plan of conquest, or to adopt extreme views on either one side or the other. Where there is a desire to find fault or always to see some hidden motive, simple reasons seem insufficient or may be overlooked, and there are few circumstances which are not capable of an abstruse and far-fetched explanation. 1 Central Asia has no stores of wealth and no economical 1 As examples of what Machiavellian motives may be adduced to explain the circumstances — however small in themselves — take the following : — Prince Gort- chakof, in November 1869, in a conversation with the British Ambassador about Kashgar, said that as the Russians had no diplomatic relations with Yakub Bek while the Government of India appeared to have dealings with him, Mr. Forsyth might assure the Atalyk Ghazi that the Russians had no hostile intentions against him. This request of Prince Gortchakof has been interpreted by English authorities to evince a desire on the part of the Eussian Government to conceal the dealings which they actually had with Kashgar, for Mirza Shadi had come on an unsuccessful mission to St. Petersburg to General Kaufmann in 1868. and at the same time Captain Reinthal had been in Kashgar. Everybody knew that Mirza Shadi had been in St. Petersburg, for accounts of it had appeared in the newspapers and it could not be concealed, and it was also known that he had not been received by the Emperor, because the Emperor would not recognise Yakub Bek as a sovereign prince, but as the rebellious vassal of China. As far as con- cerns Reinthal, there is not the slightest reason to suppose that Prince Gort- chakof knew of his visit to Kashgar, as General Kaufmann does not send a report of all his proceedings to the Foreign Office, and Reinthal besides was sent, not c c 2 388 TUEKISTAN. resources ; neither by its agricultural nor by its mineral wealth, nor by its commerce, nor by the revenue to be derived from it, can it ever repay the Eussians for what it has already cost, and for the rapidly increasing expenditure bestowed upon it. Had Eussia known fifteen years ago as much about the countries of Central Asia as she does now, there can be hardly a doubt that there would have been no movement in that direction. Even the steps taken in 1864 would not for a moment have been allowed. Despite the drain upon the Imperial exchequer, it is prac- tically impossible for Eussia to withdraw from her position in Central Asia. Notwithstanding the many faults which may be found in the administration of the country, the Eussian rule is on the whole beneficial to the natives, and it would be manifestly unjust to them to withdraw her protection and leave thern to anarchy and to the unbridled rule of fanatical despots. Apart from this moral consideration, that of her prestige in Central Asia would be sufficient to keep Eussia there even at a still greater loss. On the contrary, as far as one can foresee Eussia will be compelled in the future to advance still further. It seems now to be impossible for her to remain where she is. Kashgar, Bukhara, and the Turkoman country must either be annexed or they must be reduced to a position of real, and not nominal, vassalage. This accomplished, Eussia will have arrived at a true ethnical and political boundary. She will have under her rule in Central Asia all of the Mohammedan peoples of Turkish race. On the east her neighbour will be China ; and as the from Tashkent, but from Vierny. Even after the account of Eeinthal's journey was finally published, it was believed in certain quarters in England, that this was then done lest the, English mission in Kashgar should find out for themselves the visit of Eeinthal, and then accuse the Eussians of duplicity. Now for an example on the other side, Captain Terentief, in his book 'Eussia and England in Central Asia,' compares what was said about the roads from India to Kashgar by Shaw, and how easy and accessible they are in that direction, and what has been said by subsequent expeditions, by which accounts are given of the difficulties of the mountain passes, and draws the conclusion that at first the English tra- vellers accidentally told the truth, but that since then there has been a persistent effort on the part of the English authorities to blind the Eussians, by making them think that a natural barrier exists between Kashgar and India, when, in fact, there is an easy road ! THE ETHNICAL FRONTIER 389 Russians are not disposed to get into difficulties with that empire we may expect few boundary disputes. On the south the frontier will be the Oxus, separating the Russian domains from Afghanistan, as agreed upon by arrangement with England. Although the rulers are Afghans and of different stock, yet the inhabitants of Balkh and the province south, as far as the Hindu Kush, are of Turkish origin. This range would therefore form the true ethnical frontier of Russia on the south, and it must be remembered that mountains are always better barriers and boundaries than rivers. On the west the Russian frontier will join that of Persia, which is inhabited by men of a different race, and, although Mussulmans, yet of a sect violently hated by the inhabitants of Central Asia. If any difficulty with England ever arise, it will probably be in Persia, — where at present Russian influence is paramount — and not elsewhere. How Russia is to repay herself for the money she spends in Central Asia it is difficult to say. The construction of a railway, while it may bind the country more strongly to Russia, in consequence of ease of communication and facilities for the transportation of troops, can hardly develop a region which, as long as it is inhabited by the races now living there, seems to have reached its highest point. It is hardly probable that an influx of Russian colonists with their shiftless ways will improve the position of affairs. But one issue seems possible — to introduce into Central Asia the patient and economical industry of the Chinese, notwithstanding the physical, moral, and political difficulties to be overcome. Under the Chinese Kuldja was a productive and a thickly settled country ; under them Kashgar — which is now worthless — was flourishing ; and with their help we might reasonably look for a great increase in the productiveness and the prosperity of Khokand, Bukhara, and Russian Turkistan. 391 APPENDICES. APPENDIX IV. THE RUSSIAN POLICY REGARDING CENTRAL ASIA. AN HISTORICAL SKETCH. — BY PROFESSOR V. GR1GORIEF. There was a time when orthodox Russia seemed thoroughly Tartar. Everything in it, except its religion, was permeated and impreg- nated with Tartardom. It was permeated and impregnated then by Tartardom in the same degree, if not more so, as it is now by the ideas of Western Europe ; and as European ideas, which have already for a century and a half affected the higher and more in- fluential classes of the Russian people, are the weaker as their influence extends to the lower and poorer classes, so especially the top and branches of the Russian tree were then affected by Tartar- dom, but the trunk and roots less. And not only in externals — in dress, manners, and habits of life — did the Russian princes and boijars, the Russian officials and merchants, imitate the Tartars, but everything, their feelings, their ideas, and their aspirations in the region of practical life, were in the strongest way influenced by Tartardom. Our ancestors received this Tartar influence during two hundred years — at first from an unwilling, but afterwards from an habitual conformity to the tone, the ma.nners, and the morals that reigned at Sarai on the Volga, which in its time played in relation to us the same role that subsequently fell to the lot of Paris. Russia continued to seem Tartar even after the fall of the Golden Horde. During the continuance of the whole Moscow period, up to the very time of Peter the Great, the statecraft and the political management of the Russian Tsars and magnates continued to be in every respect Tartar ; so that without an acquaintance with real Tartardom it is impossible correctly to understand and estimate many phases in Russian history from the fifteenth to the seventeenth century. 392 APPENDIX IV. Thanks to having identified themselves in such a way with Tartardom, our ancestors succeeded in freeing themselves from the Tartar yoke. They had learned the weak sides of the Horde, and they succeeded in turning to their own profit whatever was really sensible in Tartar statecraft. It was in consequence of their com- plete acquaintance with Tartardom that the rulers of Moscow were able to carry on their affairs in relation to it as skilfully as they did after the fall of the Golden Horde. The Tsars and their counsellors understood at that time what they wanted, what they ought to aim at, what was possible and what was impossible, as well as the means and methods by which all this could be best accomplished One of their most skilful and fruitful political methods was their habit of calling into their service those distinguished men of the Horde who for some reason or other did not get on well at home. By means of these immigrants, who appealed accompanied by a greater or smaller number of followers, the Muscovite Grand Princes and Tsars obtained first, an excellent military force, which they used against their enemies as well on the east as on the west of Russia ; and secondly, an excellent support against their own selfish and disobediently disposed hereditary boyars. It would have been a great and a dangerous political mistake to have left these incomers in their Mussulman religion. Considering their importance and influence, there might have been formed in time out of these unchristian foreignejs-mi-el©m«n4-in_ihe_liigiiest degree injurious to theTState, " _on account of their n ot^elonging 1 to the orthodox religion, which fhsrrconsfn^nted and still constitutes the basis of the Russian nation. Fortunately this mistake was avoided, not because it was foreseen in time, but because it was impossible, considering the ideas of the whole Russian world at that time and its conditions of life. If not in the first, as usual, at least in the second generation the Tartar immigrants into Russia became orthodox, and entering thus into the flesh and blood of the Russian people, strengthened instead of weakened the Empire which was then in coarse of foundation. But as it was impossible to turn every useful an! valuable Tartar at once into a Christian, and as the unavoidable perspective of becoming Christianised in Russia might have served as a pre- ventive to their permanent or temporary immigration, a clever method was found of getting out of this dilemma. There was founded within the boundaries of Russia a special Khanate, where the useful immigrants from the Horde might remain Mussulmans without injury to their true and faithful services to our political interests — the Khanate, or as it was called, the Kingdom of Kasi- mof, which during two hundred years successfully performed the functions allotted to it. RUSSIAN POLICY IN ASIA. 393 Although during the existence of the Golden Horde the boundaries of Central Asia not only reached to the Volga, but were moved still further westward into Europe, still, according to the present geographical nomenclature, it is impossible to call, in any strict sense, Central Asiatic the policy of the Russian rulers with regard to the Tartar dominions which arose beyond the Yolga on the ruins of the Golden Horde. Properly speaking, we came into contact with Central Asia, and wei'e able to act with regard to its peoples in one way or another, only on the union with Russia of the kingdoms of Kazan and Astrakhan. If, after the downfall of these branches of the Golden Horde, no little time elapsed before Russia began to advance into the steppes of Central Asia, it is impossible to say that this was caused by the unskilfulness of the Muscovite rulers. Before penetrating so far into the East, the Muscovite Tsars had to attain much more important aims on the western and southern confines of Russia. They had to live through many troubles in its very heart, and it seemed necessary in any case to bind thoroughly to them the newly-conquered Trans- Yolga country by turning it from a Tchudish and Tartar land into a Russian one. How well they understood the way to complete such a difficult transformation, is shown in the most brilliant manner by the part played by the Kazan region during the ' troublous times ' for Russia, some sixty years after the conquest of the north-eastern Trans-Yolga country. We did not advance into Central Asia during the seventeenth century, for the very reason that we were then far better acquainted with it than in the following century, and because the character of its steppes and that of its nomad population were thoroughly known to us. Incontro- vertible proofs of this acquaintance are presented to us not only by the ' Book of the Great Survey,' but by a remarkable work of the Dutch writer Witsen, who obtained, and could only obtain, in Russia that information about Central and Northern Asia, which astonished Europe at the end of the seventeenth century. In consideration of the impossibility and the unprofitableness of schemes of aggrandisement in Central Asia in the circumstances in which Russia was placed during the seventeenth century, the Mus- covite rulers in relation to this part of Asia had first, to keep up that prestige of Russian strength and Russian greatness, which, by the conquest of Kazan and Astrakhan, they had obtained in the most distant regions of the Mussulman East ; second, as far as possible to prevent the nearest nomads from pillaging attacks on their borders ; and third, to have a care for the commercial interests of their subjects, not forgetting even another interest of ft at time — which was common to us, with all the rest of Europe — the ransom [ 394 APPENDIX IV. from Mussulman hands of orthodox Christians who had fallen by various fates into slavery. ' If you want others to respect yon, first respect yourself.' The Muscovite Tsars and officials were impregnated to the marrow of their bones with this maxim, and therefore looked after the honour and dignity of Russia in relation to foreigners with a care which in later times has unfortunately been forgotten. In the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, this care constituted a characteristic trait of our diplomacy. It is well known that when even in the time of Vassili III. an embassy arrived in Moscow from the Sultan Baber, who had just founded a most powerful and rich monarchy in Afghanistan — the news of this had not yet reached us — the Tsar, while receiving the ambassador politely, and agreeing to the mutual freedom of trade which Baber desired, did not order him to be called ' brother ' in the document, as the chronicler observes, for he did not know for sure who Baber was, whether an autocrat, or only a sub-officer of the Indian realm. The Nogais, whose encampments bordered all the eastern frontier of Russia, from the Caspian Sea to Siberia, were in the sixteenth century very dangerous neighbours for us. JSTeverlheless Ivan the Terrible did not allow Ismail, although he was our very good ally, and we prized his friendship, to name himself in docu- ments (as Ismail wished to do by old habit) either his father or his brother, considering both designations derogatory to the dignity of the Autocrat of the Russian land. In 1589, when the famou3 Abdullah Khan of Bukhara sent to the Tsar Feodor Ivanovitch an ambassador with a letter, the letter was not received, because written without the Tsar's titles ; and by command of the Tsar, the boyar Godunof answered Abdullah, that all sovereigns write to his Tsarish Majesty with due respect, and to him, the boyar, with love and compliment. He at the same time informed the Khan that if the T.-ar had not placed his ambassador under ban, it was only through his intercession, together with that of the other boyars, and he proposed to the Khan to smooth over the insult which had been offered, promising to use all his efforts that relations might not be broken off. We know how little Russia in 1620 had suc- ceeded in recovering from the disorders of the ' troublous times,' and yet the young Michael Feodorovitch, who sent in this year Khokhlof as Ambassador to Bukhara, strictly ordered him to give no presents if they should be demanded for his admission to the Khan ; and if in dining with the Khan there should be ambassadors from other powers (there might happen to be among them an ambassador from Persia, or from the Indian realm of Baber, or from the Osmanli Sultans) to demand that he, the Russian Ambassador, should be RUSSIAN POLICY IN ASIA. 395 given a place higher than the rest, and, if this should not be accorded, not to dine. The first Russian Ambassador to China, the boyar's son, Baikof, who was sent thither in 16-54, was not received by the Emperor, as is well known, because he did not consent to submit to the undignified reception and ceremonies, which, however, were considered obligatory on all foreign ambassadors from what- ever place they came. In our turn, when we received embassies from the Central Asiatic rulers, we strictly observed in our negotiations with the ambassadors the relative political weight of their masters, and usually appointed for their reception officials of the lower grades. In order to inspire and keep up a high idea of ourselves abroad, it was not considered prejudicial even to be boastful. Thus, for example, in the instructions to Novosiltsof, who was sent in 1585 as ambassador from the Tsar Feodor Ivano- vitch to the Emperor Rudolf, he was ordered to say with regard to our Asiatic relations that ' The sovereigns living along the confines of our country — the Khan of Kyzyl-bash, the Bukharan Tsar, the Turkistan Tsar, the Kazak Tsar, the Urgentch Tsar, and the Georgian, Izyurian, Kalmuk, Shemakha, and Shenkal rulers — these now are all peaceable with the Kj^zyl-bashes and with each other, according to the instructions and counsel of our sovereign, and in all great matters in which friendship or enmity to anyone arises, they write and report of that to our lord ; and with regard to that our lord writes and orders them ; and they are in eveiwthing obedient to our lord, and send frequent embassies to our lord with great respect and deference.' Four years after this, not much less than this was said to the ambassador of the German Empire at the Moscow Court — 'that the Bukharan Abdula Tsar, and the Tsar of Urgentch, and the Prince of Izyur are all in the power of our lord.' It is very possible that in his turn the famous Abdullah, the terrible and mighty ruler of the countries along the Syr and the Amu, who was called by us the ' Bukharan Abdula Tsar,' said very much the same thing to the ambassadors of the Great Mogul ; that the Tsar of Moscow reported to him about everything, and was in his full power. All the cases, how- ever, of the boasting of which we speak, that are known to us, relate exclusively to the reign of Feodor Ivanovitch, wherefore perhaps, wa -nay ascribe this exaggeration not to the usual habit of our diplomacy in the seventeenth century, but to the influence on governmental matters of Godunof, a Tartar by extraction, and consequently a diplomat in the special Tartar sense. As regards the second problem — the repression of attacks on the Russian settlements by the neighbouring nomads, we in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries knew very well that this task 596 APPENDIX IY. was impossible for a central government, and for that reason the Moscow antborities did not interfere, but left the matter entirely to the frontier commanders. The only exception to this rule, as far as is known, was the construction for the defence of the settlement on the left bank of the Kama, against the incursions of the Bashkirs, Kirghiz, and Kalmuks, of a row of walls, ditches, and fortifications from Biely-yar on the Volga to the river Ik beyond Menzelinsk — a line of defence which received the appella- tion of the ' Trans-Kama line.' As concerning the frontier com- manders, they in proper cases acted with the forces of the very people who had been pillaged, and paid off the nomads for the devastation they had wrought by a similar destruction of their settlements. Such a position of things naturally called the Cossacks into existence, and they developed on the Siberian frontier as well as on the Taik and the Terek. . Serving as a barrier against the brigandage of the nomads, the Cossacks at the same time took the offensive not only against them, but sometimes also against the settled states of Central Asia, as witness the bold attempts of the Cossacks of the Taik to get possession of Khiva. Thanks to the Cossacks the Russian name continued to remain terrible in Central Asia without any special measures to that end on the part of the central government ; and the government, prizing their services and deserts, had the good sense to look through its fingers at the fact that these profitable arms were not always obedient and sub- missive ones. The natural productions of Russia being much demanded by Asia had from of old brought Asiatic traders thither. When Kazyan and Astrakhan fell, through which the Russian trade with the East had been carried on, ambassadors came to Ivan the Terrible from Samarkand, Bukhara, and other places, asking for a 'free road for guests.' The commercial relations with Central Asia were profitable for Russia, and therefore ' the road for guests ' was willingly opened ; but we understood even at that time that it would be still more advantageous if we could provide ourselves with the Asiatic wares that we needed by buying them at the place of production by means of our own merchants. For that reason the Moscow Tsars showed the greatest favour to those of their subjects who were bold enough to penetrate into the Central Asiatic markets through the hostile steppes full of marauders which separated them from us. The effoi't to obtain for the Russian merchants who went to Central Asia the same rights and conve- niences which Central Asiatic traders had in Russia, was the chief reason which in the seventeenth century called out an embassy from Russia to the Central Asiatic sovereigns. The demand for RUSSIAN POLICY IN ASIA. 397 the liberation of the Russian prisoners who were in slavery there was put in merely from motives of humanity, and the prisoners who returned to Russia with our ambassadors were not received gratis, but were ransomed with money. Another aim of the em- bassies was to obtain correct information about the political con- dition of the countries to which they were sent, since the intelli- gence brought by the Asiatic traders could not always be depended upon. If our affairs beyond the Volga did not advance, the amour projore of the government found abundant compensation in the constant success with which the Russian dominion extended over the wander- ing and pastoral natives of Siberia. About 1640 we had already begun to take firm hold on the Amur. This movement brought us into contact with the nomads of Central Asia on another side, the north instead of the west, and here apparently we met with great success. One after the other various little tribes of Turkish and Mongol race voluntarily gave their allegiance to us, and in 1636 Altyn Khan, the important ruler of Urunkhai had already become subject to Russia. But our late Chinese scholar, Hyacinth Bitchurin, was the first of European writers to remark ' that nomads consider allegiance a bargain with their conscience, in which they expected to win at least four to one, and for that reason when a favourable case arises they rival each other in their readi- ness to declare themselves subjects, but, if they be deceived in their hope of winning four to one, they are shrewd enough to repay themselves by pillage, rapine, and murder.' For that reason we said that our success in obtaining the submission of the nomads in the southern regions of Western Siberia was only apparent; in reality all declarations of submission on their part were tricks by which they hoped to get from us presents and other advantages. They understood this very well in Moscow, where even in 1623 there was an order not to allow Kalmuk and Urunkhai embassies fco come there. Court vanity, however, which was pleased with the appearance of such embassies and their submission, got the better, and the comedy of bringing nomads to the oath of allegiance, in spite of the complete admission that it was no more than a comedy, continued to have constant success on the diplomatic stage during the rest of the seventeenth century, as well as up to the latest times. [Notwith standing the rapid political growth of the Russian Empire, we could not arrange matters with the Crimean Horde in the seventeenth century, or even up till nearly the end of the eighteenth. This is known to everybody. Probably very few, however, know that in the seventeenth century Russia was exposed 398 APPENDIX IV. to the danger of a new invasion of Mongols and of a new struggle with them. The fact is that the former strong, and afterwards much weakened, union of Jungarian Mongols, known to their western neighbours by the name of Kalmuks, but at home by the name of Oirat, began in the commencement of the seventeenth century to take new strength, and among the Jungarian rulers there axose the idea of establishing the old realm of Tchinghiz in its former extent and greatness. At least we see that while the head of the most powerful Kalmuk tribe of Tchoros, the renowned Bator Kun- taitsi, strove to weld the Oirat into a unity under his rule, the head of another tribe, Gushi-Khan, immigrated with a part of his sub- jects to the south-east to Khukhu-nor, and founded there an inde- pendent government, obtaining afterwards supreme power even over Thibet ; and Ho-Urluk, the head of the tribe Torgout, moving from the Ii'tysh to the sources of the Tobol and of theEmba, crowded the Kh'ghiz to the south, then conquered the Nogais, whom we consi- dered our subjects, overcame the Turkomans in Mangyshlak, and finally in about 1636 passed over the Yaik, went around Astrakhan, and settled with his Horde on both banks of the Lower Volga like a conqueror, not asking in the least the consent of the Russian Government for such an immigration into Russian dominions. In this way the Mongols in a very short space of time again made themselves the conquerors of the countries from Siberia to India, and from China to the Caucasus. The Horde had as many as 50,000 Idbitlicis, and could place in the field 30,000 well-armed horsemen, and after it came in the same direction to the Volga crowds of other Kalmuks. The Mongols of Baty invaded Russia with probably no greater number of soldiers, and if the situation of Russia at this time was not the same as it was in the thirteenth century, for there was a unified autocracy ruling, it was still in the highest degree difficult. The wounds of ' the troublous times ' had hardly been healed ; the population was exhausted physically and economically ; the Imperial treasury was empty ; the submission of the Cossacks was not to be trusted to ; the military endurance of the streltsi and other soldiery was doubtful, and aUhough peace had been concluded with Sweden and Poland, still if a trouble had arisen for Russia on the East, the Swedes and Poles would have again broken out. What aided us was that the Kalmuks and their leaders had neither the skill nor the discipline of the army of Tchinghiz Khan. They therefore contented themselves with the acquisitions they had made, and, settling on the Volga, limited themselves to pillage of the neighbourhood and to excursions to Astrakhan, where in a contest with its defenders Ho-Urluk was killed, according to one report in 1643. There were no means of expelling the Kalmuks RUSSIAN POLICY IN ASIA. 399 from the territory they had occupied. It only remained, therefore, to admit the accomplished fact, and try to cover the blot on our honour by turning the uninvited guests into subjects, if only in name, which, from the readiness of nomads for this bargain, was easily arranged. In 1655 the Ambassadors of Shukur Daitchin, the son and successor of Ho-Urluk, swore the eternal allegiance of the Kalmuk people to the Tsar Alexis. How little real meaning this allegiance had is evident from the fact that Shukur Daitchin and his successor several times after that entered into new treaties with the Russian government, did not pay them a kopek, but on the contrary received tribute from them in the gu ; se of constant salary ; continued to consider themselves as before as members of the Oirat league ; were in constant relations with Jungaria, Thibet, and even China ; entered on the government of their people without the Tsar's con- firmation ; received new immigrants from Jungaria ; and sent back there whole thousands of people without the knowledge or consent of Moscow. In the year 1712 the Khan Ayuka, already with the knowledge and consent of our government, received an ambassador from the Chinese emperor, while the Russian Tsars themselves had not been honoured by a single Chinese embassy in their capital. In a word, living in the Russian dominions, the Kalmuk Khans acted not as subjects but as allies of Russia ; and the Kalmuks really were our allies, as were other native tribes within the domains of the Empire up to about 1780, the time of the conquest of the Crimean Khanate. At the end of the Moscow period we came into contact with China. We were brought into this contact by the successes of the Siberian Cossacks on the Amur, which disquieted the Chinese government. We had for a long time desired to trade with China through Mongolia. For the establishment of regular commei'cial relations with this great Empire our first embassy had been sent to Pekin in the year 1654 by the Tsar Alexis. This was followed by other not more successful embassies. Our successes on the Amur ended, as is well known, in our yielding to the Chinese without the slightest need, by the Rertchinsk treaty of 1669, the left bank of the Amur, which had never belonged to them ; and in this way we shut up for ourselves for more than a century and a half our most con- venient way to the Pacific Ocean. It would have been well enough if we had been compelled to such a disadvantageous cession by the consideration of the great weakness of our defensive and offensive forces in Siberia, and by the danger of coming into armed conflict with the Mantchus, who had just conquered China, and, governed by the wisest politician of his time — the Emperor Kansi — were still in the full lust of conquest ; although a danger of this kind 400 APPENDIX IV. could have been hardly well founded in view of the comparatively enormous efforts which it cost the Mantchus to subdue the insigni- ficant fort of Albazin. The cause, however, of the conclusion of the Nertchinsk treaty must be considered to be our desire imme- diately to carry on a trade with China, just as if we could not live without this trade, and as if it had not been more advantageous and desirable to the Chinese than to us. The question why our affairs with the Chinese were so unsuccessfully carried on we gene- rally like to explain by the interference of the Jesuits. It is much simpler to explain it by the general truth that knowledge is stronger than ignorance, and that we in Moscow and St. Petersburg never knew the weak sides of China, and were unable to prize those ad- vantages which we have more than once had in relation to this power, in consequence of the positions of its affairs in Mongolia and Jungaria, and were therefore not in a condition to profit by them. The wily Chinese saw with whom they had to do, were obstinate, and obtained what they wanted. That man alone can despise his people who recognises no worth in himself. If Peter the Great really succeeded in doing much that was great, it was because he believed in the Russian people, and measured their strength by the marrow of his own soul. This our reformer showed even in his designs with regard fco Central Asia. He had no aspiration to conquer it, but was attracted by other ideas ; first, to give to Russian trade a way through the steppe to the treasures of India, which he knew had given wealth to his friends the Dutch, and to other western European nations who had got there by sea; second, to bring into Russia the gold which, as report had told him, was to be found in masses in a river near the city of Irket (Yarkand) — a second Asiatic El Dorado — a country of which they said that it lay in the possessions of the Kalmuk prince, somewhere on the south of Siberia and on the east of Bukhara. Notwithstanding such indefinite knowledge of the position of Irket and of the road from Bukhara to India, Peter decided on making a road thither for his subjects by military force, without, however, conquering the countries through which the proposed road should go. This was the combination of a genius ; and due justice has not yet been given to it by the biographers of the great Emperor, because they, being unacquainted with the history of the East, have never been in a position rightly to estimate its value. The realization of this combination was founded on a deep understanding of the political condition of the countries of Central Asia at that time, which, we are forced to say, Peter was the first and the last of our statesmen of the eighteenth century to possess. By means of an embassy from Khiva, which had appeared in Moscow at the very RUSSIAN POLICY IN ASIA. 401 beginning of the century (1703), with a proposal from the Khan tc swear allegiance to Russia, and from other sources, Peter knew that the Khivan and Bukharan Khans were so little the actual rulers of their subjects, and were ' so much oppressed by them,' according to the just expression of Peter himself, that in order to put them down they would willingly accept any foreign aid. On these data he decided to send to Khiva and Bukhara a military force of considerable strength (5,000 men). A part of this force was to be left with the Khivan and Bukharan Khans as a guard, which would guarantee to them the obedience of their subjects, and at the same time their personal dependence on Russia, while with the rest measures were to be taken to open a road to India and Irket, and to send thither a Russian commercial caravan. In the condition of affairs in Central Asia at that time this project was in no way subject to risk, and would have been crowned with full success, if the Emperor had not spoiled the whole affair by confiding it to Prince Bekovitch-Tcherkasski. Peter then naturally thought, as many do now, that in dealing with cunning Asiatics it was best to use an equally cunning but perfectly devoted ' Eastern man.' This was a great mistake. To succeed in dealings with Asiatics it is necessary to lay aside all cunning. Had the Emperor entrusted the undertaking to some capable and decisive Russian like Kotlyarefsky or Tchernaief it would have been splendidly carried out. Tcherkasski, with his Asiatic cunning, was entrapped, and, as is well known, ruined both himself and his army without the slightest profit. The other expedition, too, from Tobolsk to Irket, under the command of Captain Buchholtz, did not attain its purpose, because the purpose was unattainable, but it Jed at least to the firm establishment of the Russians on the Irtysh. It is remarkable that with the peculiar sagacity and grandeur of his ideas, Peter was able also to see the value of the idea of turning the Amu- Darya into its old bed to the Caspian. The idea was not carried out by him on account of the ruin of Tcherkasski, and still remains only a project. With regard to China Peter followed the near-sighted policy of the old Moscow Court ; but we may suppose that if he had lived longer he would have clearly seen the state of affairs there ; for at the end of his reign, in 1722, he sent Captain Unkofsky as ambassador to the Kalmuk sovereign, Tsevan-Rabdan, in order to learn exactly the condition of Jungaria. It is evident that the importance of this subject to Russian interests had begun to be plain to his all-embracing mind. Under the successors of Peter the Great the prominent men of Russia were imbued with 3uch a deep contempt for their whole VOL. II. D D 402 APPENDIX IV. past, and strove with such zeal to accept without choosing every- thing that came from "Western Europe, that in a very short time they entirely forgot everything which they before knew, and among the rest lost all that knowledge and understanding of Asia which Muscovite Russia had possessed. Through their ignorance of everything that touched Asia, and especially Central Asia, they fully reached their aim — they made themselves real Europeans who had. never had any idea of a nomad life or of the condition of the Steppes. Independently of that, a great number of foreigners from, the West had entered the Russian service, and these immigrants were used without distinction not only for European and internal affairs but also for Asiatic matters. It is natural that under such- conditions our policy with regard to Central Asia during the eighteenth century must have been far inferior to the policy not only of the sixteenth, but even of the seventeenth century, with no slight loss both to the interests of the Russian people and to the honour of their government. Peter, I have just remarked, began to look into Jungarian affairs, from a true understanding of what enormous advantages might have been gained for us in regard to China. Had we been able to manoeuvre skilfully during the struggle between the Man- tchus and the Kalmuks, we might have forced the Court of Pet in to very great concessions in favour of our trade, and to the fulfil- ment of all our wishes (such as the establishment of a Russian Consulate at Pekin). We could even have penetrated, according to Peter's idea, to Irket itself. Unfortunately, the significance of Jungarian affairs for our interests was, it seems, lost from sight at the death of the great Emperor, and we, in our negotiations with the Chinese, did not show ourselves in the part of threatening creditors, but in that of submissive debtors — a proceeding which nowhere and never has led to success. Instead of supporting the Kalmuks as far as was conformable to our national advantage, we with great equanimity allowed the Mantchus to overwhelm this neighbouring people, and our deference to the conqueror of Jungaria, the arrogant Kien-long, was carried to such a degree that when the last warrior for the independence of his country, the indefatigable Amursana, was compelled to conceal himself in the limits of Siberia, and died there of the small-pox, the Siberian authorities, in order to assure the Court of Pekin of the reality of his death, twice carried the body of the unfortunate ruler to the boundaries .of China. Once having allowed the fall of Jungaria we could not, even if we wished, obtain anything from China, and nolens volens we wore compelled in our relations with the Chinese to yield to all their whims. The Dutch suffered still more in Nagasaki from the arrogance of the RUSSIAN POLICY IN ASIA. 403 Japanese, but they at least got some advantage from it. Our trade "with the Chinese, while placing our national character in a shameful light, was at the same time disadvantageous from an economical point of view. Russian wares were almost constantly sold to the Chinese at prices which did not pay for their production, and for Chinese goods the Russian consumers were obliged to pay three times their value. The causes of this were, as is well known, the absence among the Russian traders with China of any feeling of common interest, while the Chinese merchants, on the contrary, were distinguished by the close relations which bound tbem together, and a common method of action. Let us admit that the removal of these causes lay outside of the power of our government, but in that case, why were all its efforts to keep up a trade which, by bringing loss to the Govern- ment and ruining the credit of the Russian name in Asia, served only for the reprehensible gain of a very small number of large and petty traders devoid of all feeling of patriotism ? Let us remark also, that from ignorance of how to carry on our affairs we our- selves gave up the right which was accorded to us by the treaty of JNertchinsk and confirmed by that of Barinsk (1727), to send com- mercial caravans to Pekin, and we ourselves lessened our trade with China by confining it to the frontier town of Kiakhta. One privilege remained to us which no other European government had — that of constantly keeping in Pekin a Russian religious mission ; but this mission, the only object of whose existence was to keep up ortho- doxy among the descendants of the captive defenders of Albazin, who had already become Chinese, was, through its composition, and through the character of its members, unfit to cope with the learned and crafty Jesuits, and never had, and never could have, any influence on our commercial or other relations with China. Our affairs on the trans- Volga boundary of Russia were carried on in the eighteenth century no better than on the southern Siberian frontier. The rule of the Empress Anne was remarkable, as we read in the school-books of Russian history, for the voluntary sub- mission of the numerous Horde of Kirghiz who had formerly been hostile to us. This happened in 1734 In St. Petersburg there was a great rejoicing at this event, and it was recalled to mind that Peter the Great limself had been of the opinion, as it was said, that ' this Horde, though a nomad and light-thinking people, was yet the key and the gate of all the lands and countries of Asia,' for, according to European ideas, people supposed that because they had received the allegiance of one of the Kirghiz Khans they had gained possession of this key, had entered into and had passed through the wished-for gates beyond which the treasures of India d d 2 404 APPENDIX IV. were open to us. In consequence of this we already set about establishing a flotilla on the Aral Sea, and sent caravans to Tash- kent, Bukhara, and further. Affairs, however, did not turn out quite as was expected. A spectacle of another kind was shown to us, which before that had hardly been seen in history. In order to defend ourselves from our new subjects we were compelled to shut ourselves in by a line of fortresses with large garrisons, while up to this time the boundary had been entirely open. This happened because our rulers had forgotten the axiom we have mentioned, that ' swearing allegiance is regarded by nomads as a bargain which binds to nothing, but in which they expect to gain four to one, and that for a mistake in their calculations they revenge themselves by pillage and incursions.' "We took words for facts, and of course we were obliged to experience the consequences of such short-sighted- ness. Our new subjects showed themselves to be most evilly-dis- posed enemies, so that during nearly a whole century all the efforts of the government to reduce them to obedience — efforts which cost no little money — seemed utterly fruitless. From beyond our lines on the Yaik (Ural) and the Irtysh during all this period we did not move one step further into the Kirghiz Steppes, and we consi- dered it a great good fortune if their inhabitants did not break through these lines, ravage our villages, and carry off the people into slavery. The task of taming nomads strong in numbers, de- fended by the vastness and the barrenness of their steppes, cunning, eager for booty, and passionately fond of their wild liberty, was of course no light undertaking, but still it was possible, for it has at last been accomplished. So that if we fruitlessly wasted nearly a hundred years in performing this task, it is evident that we did not know how to set about it. In very truth the history of our efforts to turn the Kirghiz from nominal into real subjects is in the highest degree comic from the impracticable character of the measures used and their want of correspondence with the aim — an impractic- ableness and a want of correspondence which came from the most complete ignorance on the part of those who managed this matter, not only of the passions of the nomads and the springs which set them in action, but even of their language, their religion, their ideas, and their manners. It was natural that under such conditions almost every step of ours was a mistake. How great were these mistakes may be judged from the few following examples. We imagined that the Kirghiz were the same ethnographically as our Volga Tartars, and therefore for one hundred and twenty years we carried on all our correspondence with them in the Tartar language in the full assurance that we were communicating with them in their native tongue which they fully understood, while, RUSSIAN POLICY IN ASIA. 405 in fact, it was exactly the same as writing to Spaniards in Italian, or to Italians in Spanish, or to Poles in Serbian. Still worse results followed ; another misunderstanding of ours was, that the Kirghiz were Mohammedans, whereas in the last century they were almost all Shamanists, and a large number of them remain so to this time. At the epoch of their nominal union with Russia only a very few of the Khans and Sultans had a confused idea of the dogmas of Islam and performed some few of its rites. Not a single mosque then existed in the Kirghiz Steppes, not a single mullah performed there the rites of the Mussulman religion, and if since that time the Kirghiz have really become Mussulman to a considerable degree, it is only owing to our taking them for Mussulmans and to our treating them as such. An incontrovertible proof that the Mussulman propaganda in one or another form went into the Kirghiz Steppes from the side of Russia is the circumstance that especially those Kirghiz who live along our lines have become Mussulman, while the old genuine Shamanism is kept up, even at the present time, among those Kirghiz particularly who wander in the neighbourhood of Khiva, Bukhara, and what was formerly Khokand, that is, in really Mussulman coun- tries. From a purely political point of view our greatest mistake was our considering the Kirghiz Khans as European rulers, and the Sultans as a kind of feudal aristocracy, in consequence of which we supposed that if the Khans and Sultans were on our side the people would be obedient to us, and for that reason we courted the Khans and Sultans, treated them well, gave them presents, and had to do only with them. Meanwhile nowhere in the world had the heads of the nation and the aristocracy by birth so little meaning, so little real strength, as the Kirghiz Khans and Sultans. If any one of them attained to any influence, so as to be able to draw a crowd after him, he reached this not because of his ' white bone,' but on account of his personal worth, and personal qualities have gained exactly the same influence for simple Kirghiz of the ' black bone.' The most decisive of the efforts to change the relations between the Kirghiz and Russia which had existed, from the time of their being received into allegiance, were made in the reign of the Em- press Catherine II. Her intentions were good, but they were not carried out, not only because the great Empress sti'ove for what at that time and under those circumstances was impossible, but also because the measures which were takeu for carrying them out were marked by an idyllic Europeanism and at the same time by the greatest bureaucracy. According to the ideas which prevailed for gome time in St. Petersburg, the Kirghiz were simple-minded, rude shepherds, who did not eat bread because they did not know the taste of it, who did not till the fields because they did not know 406 APPENDIX IV. how to set about it, 1 who allowed their cattle to perish in the storm? because they did not know of the existence of sheds, who froze themselves in winter in their felt tents because they were unac- quainted with the carpenter's art, and if they were sometimes given over to robbery it was only because they were forced into it by the injustice and oppression of all sorts which they endured from our Cossacks and in general from the Russian population on the Ural and Irtjsh lines. In accordance with such notions orders were given to teach the Kirghiz the use of bread, to give them lessons in hay-cutting, to construct sheds in which they could winter their cattle, and houses where they could themselves live. It was forbidden to send out military expeditions into the steppe to punish marauders. Large sums were given for the construction of mosques, with schools and caravansarais attached ; the Kirghiz scholars were to receive every day some money for their nourish- ment, and the fathers were to be induced to send their children to school by presents, certificates of good conduct, etc. It was finally decided to extend to the Kirghiz the action of the ' Institution for the Government of the Provinces,' and to prepare them for this by the foundation in Orenburg of a ' Boundary Court,' where Kirghiz would sit together with Russians, and in the Steppe of ' Judicial Tribunals ' subordinate to this Court, composed only of Kirghiz (illiterate) with clerks taken from the mullahs (Tartars), whose duty it was to look after all the arrangements for carrying on justice as contemplated in the ' Institution ior the Provinces.' They were to annotate all the papers which were presented, to write them out in thejournals, to set forth extracts, to make protocols and registers, to write the hours of meeting, to put down the questions, and to compose reports, communications, orders, etc., etc., all in forms given by the Russian authorities. The persons chosen for such and other duties were obliged to take oath, and were confirmed in their positions by the Empress with a considerable salary in money and grain. The greater part of the proposed measures were put into execution, but as might be expected the Kirghiz could neither understand nor estimate rightly such anxious care in their behalf. They did not desire either to settle in the huts constructed for them, to learn in the schools 1 Similar ideas seemed to have obtained even id the present century. When the Bashkirs were being converted frrm a nomad to a settled life, it was found necessary to instruct them how to till their fields. Many ploughs were therefore sent out from Moscow, and as they arrived in the beginning of winter, it was thought that no easier method of instruction could be employed than by compelling them to plough the snow which covered the steppes. The Bashkirs became expert in the use of this agricultural implement, but somehow or other they could uever understand the object of their labours! RUSSIAN POLICY IN ASIA. 407 founded for them, to pray in the mosques huilt for them, or to judge or be judged in the tribunals established for them (the members of the last, however, went regularly to Orenburg to receive their pay) ; and they continued as before to quarrel among themselves, and to make pillaging excursions against their neighbours. It became necessary at last to give up the pleasing hope of introducing order into the steppes by means of such a panacea as the ' Institution for the Provinces,' to abandon all attempts to civilize a half-savage people by petting and playing with them, and not only to change the measures which forbade sending an armed force to punish marauders, but even to take stronger measures of just retribution by seizing the relatives or even the neighbours of the guilty parties. But among the measures which were impracticable, either through their idyllic or their bureauci'atic character, there was one which was perfectly just, and completely answered the aim of bringing all the order then possible among the Kirghiz. This was the removal of the great obstacle to it, which existed, as the government at last understood, in the power of the Khan over the Kirghiz, which, in consequence of their national character, did not in the slightest degree keep them down, but through personal am- bition constantly excited the passions of the people and caused dis- order. In 1786 the Khan of the Lesser Kirghiz Horde, Nurali, was driven out by his people, after a reign of thirty- seven years, injurious both to Russia and his subjects, and died at Ufa. Our government^ profiting by this circumstance, thought it advantageous not to name his successor. Unfortunately this decision was soon changed. In 1791 Irali, the son of Nurali, was raised by the Empress to the rank of Khan, and there was again for very many years the same disagreeable confusion, as prejudicial to us as it was to the Kirghiz themselves. The disobedience and the marauding of the Kirghiz made us angry so much the more that they prevented our trade with the settled countries of Central Asia. The development of this trade and its extension to India were the constant dreams of the statesmen of Russia of that time who paid any attention to Asia. It was espe- cially with the hope of reaching these aims that we were rejoiced, as we have seen, at the submission of the Kirghiz. Their Khans constantly promised to convey commercial caravans to Central Asia, and from thence to Russia in perfect security, but their subjects as constantly took from these caravans a heavy contribution, or com- pletely pillaged them. Under such circums lances our commercial relations with Central Asia could not flourish, and frequently were entirely stopped for a very long time. Besides this they were carried on from the Orenburg line almost exclusively with Bukhara 408 APPENDIX IV. and Khiva. In order to keep up and strengthen these relations we coquetted even with Mahomniedauism. It is well known thai one of the best colleges in Bukhara was constructed at the instiga- tion of the Empress Catherine, who gave 40,000 rubles for it, 1 and it was more than once proposed to establish a city at the month of the Syr-Darya, and to populate it at first, in consequence of the dis- agreeableness of the locality, with criminals condemned to exile, but this idea never passed from paper into reality. With Khiva we could still carry on trade from Astrakhan by way of the Caspian Sea and the Turkoman Steppe, but the ' Caspian Turkomans, although certain of their ' elders ' had sworn allegiance to Russia even in the time of Peter the Great, did not fall behind the Kirghiz in their marauding disposition, and even the Khivans, remembering the destruction of Bekovitch, and constantly fearing revenge for their breach of faith at that time, avoided coming into close rela- tions with ns on that side where they thought they were the least, protected from the Russian arms. Judging from their own feelings and ideas they could never understand that people in Russia might forget about the fate of some thousands of their compatriots who had been tortured to death or had lingered on in slavery. "We, oppressed with other and more important cares, had not the slightest thought of the revenge which the Khivans feared, and were ready to hold out a friendly hand at any time. When the Khivan Inak (the ruler of the Khanate) became blind, and decided in 1792 to ask the Russian government to send him an oculist, his request was at once granted. In Asia such humanity cannot be prized at its worth. Our indulgence and long-suffering were considered nothing but weakness : and these, together with the want of capacity which we showed in arranging matters with the Kirghiz, over which Asiatics could not but laugh, and the superfluous politeness which was shown to the embassies of their insignificant rulers, greatly, if not entirely, destroyed the respect which from the time of Ivan the Terrible had surrounded the Russian name in the neighbouring East. They got accustomed to consider us as people who did not understand anything, who could be easily deceived, and who allowed themselves to be insulted with impunity, and it must be admitted we deservedly had such an unenviable reputation. At the end of the reign of Catharine the unsatisfactory character of our know- ledge of Asia, and the ineffectual nature of our policy were appa- rently acknowledged by the government itself; at least we see that in order to acquaint ourselves with the countries in the basin of the Amu and the Syr, Russian officials were sent there in 1792 from 1 See p. 93. RUSSIAN POLICY IN ASIA. 409 Siberia (Burnashof and Pospielof) who gave to us very curious information for that time about the Bukharan and Tashkent pos- sessions. Still less important was the trade which was carried on with the settled population of Central Asia from Semipalatinsk and Petropavlovsk on the Irtysh line, where merchants sometimes arrived from Tashkent, Khokand, and the cities of Eastern Turki- stan ; but it is necessary to mention that with the Kirghiz them- selves a barter traffic arose on the lines which had been newly established against them, a trade very important in its amount and very profitable for us. This advantage was the only one which their nominal allegiance brought us. At the same time with the Kirghiz another nation had sent a deputation to the Empress Anne, asking to be taken into allegiance — which was of course done — the Karakalpaks, half settled, half nomad people living at that time along the rivers Sjr and Kuvan. After that, however, as neither people was necessary to the other, we entirely forgot about them and they about us. Let us notice also that in the year 1740 the Khivan Khanate was acknowledged as being in subjection to Russia even by the famous Nadir Shah of Persia, for the reason that our subject Abul Khair, Khan of the Kirghiz, had been chosen Khan in Khiva, and had reigned there for some days. To the eighteenth century must be referred also our first attempts to begin relations with Japan, which from 1637, as is well known, had refused all intercourse with Christian nations except only the Dutch, who had declared themselves not to be Christians. The cause of this was the shipwreck of some Japanese about 1780 on the coast of Siberia. These efforts came to no result, except that the shipwrecked Japanese were obliged to teach their native language in the public schools at Irkutsk in order to form Russian interpreters to carry on our relations with Japan. Japanese was in this way the first of the Eastern languages which was offi- cially taught in Russia. A new attempt to establish relations with Japan was the first act of our Central Asiatic policy in the nineteenth century. It began in consequence of the first voyage of Russian ships around the world, on which they set out in 1803, but instead of the expected profit it brought us harm, for, on account of the prejudicial conduct of our ambassador, it ended in the just hostility of the Japanese towards us. Attempts at closer relations with Khiva and Bukhara were repeated by despatching embassies to these countries in 1819-20, but their only fruit was the enrichment of Russian and European literature by the excellent books of Muravief, Meyendorf, and Evers- 410 APPENDIX IV. maim. In order to keep up the trade with Bukhara, which suffered from the Kirghiz marauders as well as from the Khivan robber. bands, we conceived the idea of sending caravans thither under a military convoy. The first attempt at such an armed caravan was made in 1824, but was very nnfortunate notwithstanding the convoy, the outfit of which cost the government 230,000 rubles in assignats. The caravan was robbed, and an attempt of this kind was not repeated. The missions of Putimtsef to Jungaria in 1811, and of Nazarof in 1814 to Khokand, for obtaining information, were fruitless. Our relations to China were distinguished by Chinese immobility. In this way during the first quarter of the nineteenth century our policy with regard to Central Asia was in aims, methods, and results as unsuccessful and as unworthy of Russia as it was in the eighteenth century. We had no aims of aggrandise- ment ; there were no efforts at subjection or conquest ; all our care was limited to the modest object of obtaining equality in commer- cial relations with the petty settled countries of Uzbekistan ; but even this, notwithstanding all our exertions, we were in no wise able to obtain. The Bukharan, Khivan, Tashkent, and Khokandian traders went about through the whole broad extent of Russia, as if at home, in perfect safety ; bought Russian wares from the manu- facturers at the place of production ; and for their own goods which they had imported they were able, in the absence of competition, to fix most advantageous prices. Russian traders, on the contrary, in consequence of the vexation, oppression, and even danger to life to which they were exposed, as being Christians, in Bukhara and the other countries of Central Asia, were compelled entirely to give up their journeys thither, and if they sent caravans into those coun- tries, it was only with the aid of Tartar clerks, on whose honesty they could not always depend. Even these agents, on account of their Russian citizenship, were obliged to pay double custom duties for their goods, were not allowed in any other places of the Khanate except the capitals or those towns which lay on their route, and were therefore obliged to make their purchases from the merchants of the capital at second or third hand. We do not even speak of the obligatory presents to the Khans, to the high officials, and even to the lesser ones. It frequently happened that all their goods were taken from them by the Khan at low and arbitrarily fixed prices. What government in the world could remain indif- ferent to such a state of affairs, to such unequal rights to the detri- ment of their subjects ? The removal of this inequality was, as has" been said, the chief object of all our diplomatic relations with the Central Asiatic rulers, but it was wrong for us to negotiate with them as with equals. We ought to have merely given orders, so RUSSIAN POLICY I.ST ASIA. 411 ranch the more because we had the power of compelling them to the fulfilment of our demands without recourse to military force. The Central Asiatics knew of this possibility, and nevertheless made no concessions to us, but were even very haughty. Why ? Because from long experience they knew that our authorities did not take advantage of this possibility, not knowing of its existence, just as they did not know of many other modes of action which could be used on a closer acquaintance with the past and present of Eastern countries and nations. As a specimen of how slight was our acquaintance with them, we may state that even about 1850 the Siberian administration asked that of Orenburg to explain the meaning of the word baranta, although this term had been used in official papers almost every day from the time that the Kirghiz had been received into allegiance ; that is, for a hundred and twenty years they had talked about what they did not clearly understand. The reign of Alexander I. did not pass entirely without profit, at least with regard to the actual introduction of Russian power and the benefits of civil order into the Kirghiz steppes. In 1810 we moved further into the Ural steppes, cutting off from them on the Orenburg line a district with very rich salt mines, known by the name of the Iletsk district, and colonising it with Russians. Afterwards, having been convinced by a long and dear experience of the inutility to the Kirghiz and the injury to us of the rule of the Khaus, we finally abolished the title of Khan, first in the Siberian, and then in the Orenburg steppes. The government of the people in both places was confided to Kirghiz chosen by the Russian government, with the participation, or under the surveillance only, of our officials. In consequence of this, in the parts of the Kirghiz steppes nearest to the Irtysh, Russian Kazak villages appeared as centres of the administrative districts as early as 1824. About the same time the topographical survey of the Kirghiz steppes was undertaken — a measure which apparently had nothing in common with politics or the Kirghiz administration, but which was impor- tant to both. During the reign of the Emperor Nicholas I. measures for strengthening the union of the Kirghiz steppes with Russia brought a great part of its inhabitants into almost perfect submission. In 1834 a fort was built on the north-eastern coast of the Caspian Sea with the aim of preventing the marauding incursions of the Adai Kirghiz, and in the following year a new military line was esta- blished between the river Ural and Ui, and all the region which was in this way cut off from the trans-Ural steppes was united to the territory of the Orenburg Cossack army. On the side of Siberia, in the trans- Irtysh steppes, there continued to be formed districts 412 APPENDIX IV. ■with. Russian colonies in their centres. Seeing the end of their disorderly independence, that part of the Siberian Kirghiz which was not willing to snbmit to this rebelled nnder the banner of the Sultan Kenisar Kasimcf, who also succeeded in raising a part of Mis fellow-countrymen — the Orenburg Kirghiz. Quickly moving with his followers from the Siberian steppes to those of Orenburg and back again, during six whole years he kept the Russian authorities in continual alarm. All our efforts to defeat and capture him proved vain, until in 1844, being pursued by the Russian forces, he was compelled to take refuge in the settlement of the Kara Kirghiz, and was killed in a fight with them. The result of this rebellion was that in order to prevent as far as possible similar attempts, small fortifications were erected during the following years in the eastern parts of the trans-Ural steppes, on the rivers Turgai and Irghiz, after which the Russian fort Raim rose at the mouth of the Syr-Darya. By means of this we had the possibility of becoming better acquainted with the Aral Sea, which up to this time had been known only by name. In 1848-49 two ships which had been constructed in Orenburg, and had been brought in parts to Raim, made a survey of the Aral Sea, in the course of which a geographical discovery was made in this small mediterranean basin, just as might have been the case in some remote part of the ocean. A whole group of islands of considerable size was discovered, of the existence of which even the inhabitants of the coast had no suspicion. In this way what had been supposed possible in the reign of the Empress Anne was not actually carried out until 115 years after, under the Emperor Nicholas. At last we had really arrived from the side of Orenburg on that Syr-Darya which long before, in the first printed maps of Russia, had been marked as the Russian boundary against the settled countries of Central Asia. Meanwhile, in a parallel way from the side of Siberia there was also a further extension of Russian limits within Central Asia, and our power became established there. In 1845-7 the Great or Old Kirghiz Horde found it to its advantage to become submissive to Russia ; for although it had once before sworn alle- giance to us in the last century, it had depended more or less on the rulers of Tashkent and Khokand. This new acquisition com- pelled us, in order to defend it from its neighbours to erect the fortifications of Kopal at the foot of the Jungarian, and Yiernoe at the foot of the Khokandian Ala-tau. An end was also found to the steppes on the extreme south-east, and the overflow of the Russian Sea began to beat then with its waves the rocks of the Tian Shan mountains. When we had ouce received the Kirghiz steppes into our alle- RUSSIAN POLICY IN ASIA. 413 giance, we ought naturally to have attempted to turn this nominal into a real subjection, as without that it would be impossible not only to develope our trade with the settled countries which _ie behind these steppes (a trade from which, although entirely without reason, great advantages were expected), but it would also be im- possible to give security to the Russian settlements which bordered on the steppes. Once having succeeded in reducing the Kirghiz to obedience (the clearest proof of which was the revenue we began to get from them), and having introduced all the order and quiet we could into the steppe, it became our duty to preserve them from hostile attacks on the south by the Khokandians and Khivans. The pretensions of the Khivan Khans on the Kirghiz, which had grown much stronger since the beginning of the present century, were limited, however, to temporary imposts on the tribes which were nearest to them, and did not specially interfere with the quiet of the steppe in general. The Khokandians acted otherwise. Having established themselves about 1820 on the right border of the valley of the Syr and along the southern slopes of Kara-tau and Alatau by a line of mud forts, they not only regularly took tribute from the local and neighbouring Kirghiz, but from time to time penetrated with large bands into the trans-Ural and Tchu steppes, and wrought great devastation, accompanying it with the most frightful barbarity. After the construction of Viernoe and Raim, we stood face to face with these barbarians, and we were inevitably obliged to meet them with arms. As Asiatics do not practise political common sense, which would forbid them to begin a struggle that was disproportionate to their means, and as the Khokandians had not the slightest idea of the strength of Russia, and at the same time showed no desire to leave off their marauding expeditions, their hostile relations to our Kirghiz naturally ended to their great discomfiture. By the end of 1853 almost all the Khokandian forts in the valley of the Syr, including the strongest, Ak Masjid, had fallen in our hands. It was also necessary to punish the Khivans, not for their old faults, which had well-nigh been for- gotten by us, but for their frequent attacks on our caravans going to Bukhara and on the Bukharan caravans coming to us, and for the protection which they gave to the still disobedient Kirghiz, who captured the Russian traders and fishermen on the Caspian Sea, in consequence of which Khiva became the chief market for the Russian slave trade, and thousands of Russians were there in torture. After long wavering as to how to set about this punish- ment, it was finally resolved in the year 1839 to undertake a military expedition against Khiva ; but, as it is well known, through the severity of the winter, the Russian forces were obliged 414 APPENDIX IV. to return when they were still far from reaching the bounds of the Khivan Khanate. It is true that, terrified by this movement, and still more by the detention of the Khivan traders in Russia — a measure which should have been applied long before — the Khivan Khan gave up a part of the Russians who were kept there as slave? ; but immediately after affairs went on as before. The Khivans again robbed our caravans ; again bought up the Russians who were captured by the Turkomans and the -Kirghiz ; so that the embassy which was sent in 1842 in order to arrange things peace- ably, had little result except the collection of new knowledge about the Lower Amu Darya (published by Danilefsky and Basiner). In order to prevent the attack of the Caspian Turkomans we established a constant cruising service of armed vessels in the southern part of the Caspian Sea, from a station that had been agreed upon with Persia in the Gulf of Astrabad ; but this fleet in general had little effect, and it defended from the attacks of the Turkomans rather the Caspian shores of Persia than the Russian commercial vessels in the northern part of that sea. During the period under consi- dei'ation the commercial relations of Bukhara, which were so bad for Russia, did not change for the better. We profited by the request of the Bukharan Amir to send him people skilful in search- ing for gold (he had received information about our gold mines in Siberia and the Ural), only to send into Bukhara in 1842 several scientific officers and mining engineers, who on this occasion visited Samarkand and other places of the Khanate, which had hitherto been inaccessible to Europeans, and brought back to us precious scientific information (Khanikof, Lehmann, and Butenief). As regards China we began to prize the trade of this empire, as it had been established at Kiakhta, still more than the trade with Bukhara, and although it was unprofitable to us we were ready to sacrifice everything in order that it might not in any way cease even for a short time. During the continuance of the war which the English declared against the Chinese in 1840, we could, if we had only wished, have obtained many advantages ; for the Chinese authorities, then entirely unacquainted with Europe, turned of themselves to the members of our Pekin mission for counsel and explanation ; but for some reason or other we thought it necessary not to meddle under any pretext in this dispute, and we considered it a great diplomatic victory that by the treaty of Kuldja in 1851 we legalized the trade with Western China through Kuldja and Tchu. gutchak, which had been very quietly carried on without any special permission from Buktarmy, Petropavlovsk, and Semipala- tinsk from the very beginning of the present century. According to this treaty we obtained the right to construct factories in Tchu- RUSSIAN POLICY IN ASIA. 415 gatchak and Kuldja, and in the latter place to have our own consul. Towards the end of the period under consideration the fear of quarrelling with the Chinese began, however, to yield to other political views. We began to think about recovering the territory which had been lost by us without the slightest reason by the treaty of Nertchinsk, and about navigating the Amur to the Pacific. With this aim military operations along this river began against the Chinese in 1853 ; but it is necessary to say that even this matter, which had lain dormant for more than one hundred and sixty years, was begun too soon, for its advantages are still in the future, and mean while its has succeeded in acting in a very disadvantageous way on the prospects of Eastern Siberia. At least, with regard to Japan we were not behind the other European nations in our success, having opened relations with it in the proper time _and with energy. During the last days of the reign of the Emperor Nicholas a treaty was concluded with that country at Simoda, by which Russian vessels were allowed to enter the three ports of Simoda, Hakodati, and Nagasaki ; Russia was allowed to have a consul in one of the first two ports ; and a very important condition was made that all the rights and privileges which should be given in future in Japan to other nations should be at the same time extended to Rn-ssian subjects. In this way, to us, together with the Americans, belongs the honour of forcing a breach into this Great Britain of the Eastern Ocean, hitherto inac- cessible. In the castle of Gripsholm on Lake Malar there lie two immense cannon of the time of Ivan the Terrible, brought from Novgorod during the ' troublous times ' by General Be La Gardie. The Swedes with pride point out these trophies to foreigners, and it is not even unpleasant for a Russian to look at them when he remembers the battle of Poltava and its consequences for Sweden. In the same way, without the slightest disagreeable feeling, we can admit the unsatisfactory character of our Asiatic policy since t^e time of Peter the Great, knowing that during the present reign flJrno^t all our former failures have been gloriously wiped out, and that the Russian name in Central Asia is now as terrible and enjoys the same respect as it did after the fall of Kazan and Astraknan. But we do not undertake an estimate of our activity in thip part of Asia during the last twenty years, because the view of a contemporary may be near-sighted and prejudiced, and also because *w\ do not have at hand sufficiently full and truthful data. 41b APPENDIX V. APPENDIX V. RUSSIA AND KHIVA. The following is the substance of an account of the relations with Khiva preceding the Khivan campaign of 1873, given by Terentief, in his ' Russia and England in Central Asia,' chapters v., vi. : — ' Immediately on his arrival in Tashkent, General Kaufmann wrote to the Khivan Khan, Mohammed Rahirn, a letter of November 19 (December 1), 1867, in which he informed him of his appoint- ment and arrival, of the full powers granted him by the Emperor, and of the movement of our detachment beyond the Syr Darya for the purpose of punishing the marauders who pillaged our caravans, &c. But this letter was evidently understood as a desire on the part of the Governor-General to curry favour, and the Khivans immediately took a lofty tone. ' The Khan did not even answer it himself, but committed the care of his correspondence to his attendants, who in their turn hastened so little that the answer was received only in February 1868. Knowing that Mohammed Rahim, who was only twenty years old, was more occupied in hunting with falcons than with business, which was carried on by his ministers, we did not expect from Khiva any special politeness. The tone of the answer surpassed our anticipa- tions. The Khivan Kush-begi wrote : " Every lord rules his own lands and neither the people there, of old subject to him, nor his army ought to cross the boundary and in this way break the peace. Further, your statement that both sides of the Syr Darya belong to your rule is apparently an infringement of previous treaties, since the southern side of the Syr Darya belongs to us. If, on the southern side of the Syr Darya, rebels disturb caravans, we will put them down ; but if they attack the caravans on the other side of the Syr Darya, that is your work." ' In view of his journey to St. Petersburg the Governor- General decided not to answer this letter until his return, and in the mean- RUSSIA AND KHIVA. 417 time to look up the question of the treaties to which, the Khivans referred. It was decided also not to change the de facto occupation of the left bank of the Syr Darya, and of the whole course of the Kuvan and the Yany Darya to Lake Aktcha-kul, since the Kirghiz of the district of Kazala migrated along these rivers, passed the winter there, and left agriculturists there during the summer. ' From the beginning of the winter of 1867, in order to protect these Kirghiz from the pillage of the Khivans, detachments had been sent out from Kazala and Perovsky to Irkibai, and even further, if the weather allowed. This measure up to 1873 continued to give satisfactory results. As concerns the juridical side of the question the researches made in St. Petersburg proved that there were no treaties regarding the boundaries; and although the Khivans had raised the question during the mission of General Ignatief, he had declined to decide the question, on the ground of the impossibility of exactly defining the boundary-line between countries the outlying provinces of which were inhabited by nomads only. ' Khiva seemed to take no lessons from the capture of Samar- kand, and even held her head high. All the robber-chiefs who had previously carried on their raids under the banner of the Amir, such as Sadyk, Nazar, &c, and all the Russian traitors, as the cornet Atarakul and his brothers, as well as the rebellious son of the Amir, the Katta Tiura, found a refuge in Khiva. The Khan gave many of them money for their support, and proposed to the Katta Tiura the rank of Khan of the Turkomans subject to Khiva. The Amir, however, soon demanded the surrender of his son, and Khiva — thus placed between the laws of hospitality and the demands of a near and powerful neighbour — took the middle course and advised the Katta Tiura to leave the country. Atamkul started to go with him, but was caught, put in chains, and incarcerated for four months in prison. . . . ' During the troubles with the Kirghiz the proclamations of the Khan and his ministers filled the steppes, the Khivan emissaries were profuse in promises, and the small detachment sent out by the Khan grew in the imagination of the Kirghiz into great armies, and stimulated them to all soi'ts of depreciations. How submi 5sive were even those Kirghiz authorities supposed to be loyal can be judged from the reports of the Volost rulers. Iset Kuty Barof very naively communicated on May 22 (June 3), that " hav- ing received information of the arrival of the Khivans on the borders, and an invitation from them to come, I and Niaz went. They asked us, ' On whose side are you ? ' We answered ' On VOL. II. E E 418 APPENDIX V. both.' The Khivans took from us three merchants ' and 1,000 sheep." ' In one of the proclamations issued, to which the seal of Moham- med Rahini Khan was affixed, it was said that according to the treaties with Russia the boundary was first the Ural and after- wards the Emba, and that the advance of the Russians beyond the Emba was an infringement of the treaties. " You and all the Kir- ghiz tribes," the Khan wrote, " unanimously agreed to separate yourselves from the infidels, and decided to smite them with the sword of Islam. This is known to him who rules on the threshold of the refuge of Islam, and therefore we send to you troops, with the Esaul Bashi Mahmud and Makhram Khudai Ntizar." By other proclamations in the name of the emissaries the Bii and elders were invited to come to Khiva for consultation about the intended movement. The Divan Besfi also encouraged the rebels, and promised that the Khan's troops would soon come to their aid. It is possible, indeed, that these documents may have been forgeries, as forgeries are not uncommon in Central Asia. . . . ' Various Russians captured in the subsequent disturbances were sent on to Khiva. ' ISTot wishing at once to have recourse to harsb measures, the Governor- General tried to bring Khiva to its senses by diplo- matic means. In a letter of August 12 (24), 1869, the Khan was told (1) That incendiary proclamations in his name had been sent to our Kirghiz and Turkomans. (2) That his officials, attended by troops, had come within our limits, for the purpose of exciting disorder among our subjects. (3) That some Russians had been carried off to Khiva, where they were kept with his know- ledge. (4) That rebels and robbers, running away from the Russian dominions, find hospitality and protection with him. ' A demand was made at the same time that such offences should not be repeated, and that the guilty parties should be punished for their infringement of the frontier. "I do not wish to think that all this was done with your knowledge," added the Governor- General, " and would be glad to believe that you have no hand in these things. Similar acts were committed formerly by Khokand and Bukhara. Ton know the consequences." ' On receiving fresh information regarding the disturbances in the Bukan mountains another letter was written, dated Septem- ber 20 (October 2), demanding the punishment of the marauders, the return of the men who had been taken, and the liberation of the Russian and Bukharan subjects that had been captured. No 1 Iran Burnashof and his companions. RUSSIA AND KHIVA. 419 answer, however, was received to either of these letters, and the messenger by whom they had been sent was kept under arrest in Khiva. This messenger w r as a Kirghiz from Perovsky, Sultan Daulet Bushaef. Leaving Perovsky on September 19, 1869, in fourteen days he arrived in Khiva, where the people met him with glad cries of JEltohi, Bltclii ! (Ambassador). The Ministers, however, not content with his answer, did not receive him as such. To the question of the Kush-begi as to the opinion of the Russians about Sadyk, Bushaef replied that the Russians considered him one of their leaders ; for wherever he appeared he always enticed the Russians, and gave up to them the cities that he defended ; that the Khokandians were obliged to him for the loss of their cities ; that the Bukharans had paid for his support by Samarkand ; " and now he is with you," added Bushaef. Next day this messenger was disarmed and placed under guard, where he remained for three months. ' As the disturbances in the Orenburg steppes did not cease, a detachment was sent from Kazala to the Tany Darya and another from Jizakh to the Bukan mountains. The latter had also the purpose of marking out the new boundary-line with Bukhara. ' The Khan, hearing of the advance of the detachment to the Bukan mountains and of the establishment of a post at Krasnovodsk, gave up the Russian messenger, Bushaef. The landing at Kras- novodsk seems to have made a strong impression. The Khan immediately sent a force of cavalry to poison all the wells on the road to Krasnovodsk by throwing dead dogs into them. A new citadel was constructed in the city and armed with twenty guns. The chief branch of the Amu Darya, the Taldyk, was turned aside and various canals were cut, so as to render it shallow and impassable for Russian ships. A small fortification was constructed at Cape Urgu. The Russian Kirghiz migrating to Khiva were freed from all taxes on condition of giving troops in case of war. . . . ' As it would have been disadvantageous to have the Khivan Khan consider the expedition which occupied Krasnovodsk as an independent undertaking and not in conformity with the general direction of our policy in Central Asia, General Kaufmann, imme- diately on receiving information of it wrote to the Khan on January 18 (30), 1870, telling him of the purpose of the settlement ■ — to construct a commercial depot and protect the Kirghiz from the attacks of Turkomans. He, at the same time, reminded the Khan in very strong expressions of his previous demands in regard to permitting Russian merchants to come to Khiva, and adding that he had written already three times to him, but had received no 420 APPENDIX V. answer. " You have even allowed yourself, against all law, to detain my. messengers. Such conduct can no longer be endured. One of two things — either we must be friends or enemies. There is no middle course between neighbours. There is an end to all this, and if I do not receive a satisfactory answer I shall take one." ' A month after this letter was sent, on March 9, Bushaef re- turned, having obtained an answer from the Divan Begi to the second letter and from the Kush-begi to the third. ' The first wrote that the Khivan tax collectors had always gone to the Bukan mountains and collected taxes from the Tcharu tribe and from the caravans. " This is no novelty," he wrote ; " the Buk- haran merchants are witness to it." As concerns the Hebrew who was taken prisoner there the Divan-begi explained that no one knew anything about him, and the robberies on the Bukan mountains were ascribed to Russian Kirghiz, since the Khivan tax collectors had only ten men, and not eighty, the number of the robbers. ' The Kush-begi wrote in much more detail. " Our master does not at all wish war ; on the contrary, he desires quiet and the wel- fare of his people. We wish the same to you. However, some time back Russian troops have crossed our frontier and marched against us." Further, in defence of his proclamations and emissaries, the Kush-begi said : " Your Kirghiz complain to us that the Russians do not allow them to migrate within the Khivan borders, as w T as formerly the case, and that besides they oppress and kill them. To quiet these Kirghiz and to punish these marauders I sent them from five to ten officials." With regard to the prisoners he said : " The Kirghiz brought to us three Russians, and desired to obtain froiu them payment for their relatives who had been killed, and for property which had been stolen, but he who sits under the shadow of Ood cooled with the waters of prudence the naming hearts of the Kirghiz, refused to allow the punishment, and took away the prisoners, who can be returned in case the Russian troops be forbidden to cross the frontier, and the Kirghiz be indemnified for the property which they had lost." ' On March 25 (April 6) General Kaufmann replied with a letter in which he said that the Russian troops had marched to a place occupied by Russian subjects who needed protection against robbers, and that wherever the subjects of the White Tsar lived they remained his subjects, and for that reason the lands along the Yany Darya as far as Lake Aktcha-kul had always been considered, and would always be considered Russian, as well as the Bukan mountains and all the road from the Kyzyl Kum to Irkibai, on the RUSSIA AND KHIVA. 421 Yany Darya, in accordance with the treaty made with. Bukhara, and that no one else had the right to collect any taxes there. ' On April 26 an answer was received from the Khan to General Kaufmann's letter of January 30. With regard to Krasnovodsk the Kush-begi wrote : " The contents of your last letter show a great ill will. From the foundation of the world until this time there never was an example that one ruler, for the quiet of another, and for the welfare of foreign subjects, constructed fortresses beyond his own frontiers, and sent thither his troops. Our lord desires that the White Tsar, according to the example of his ancestors, should not be carried away by the immensity of the empire entrusted to him by God, and should not seek to obtain the lands of others. This is not the custom of great sovereigns. If, relying upon the strength of his armies, he wish to make war against us, then before the Creator of the heaven and earth, before the Great Judge of all earthly judges, all are equal, both the strong and the weak. To whom he wishes he gives the victory. Nothing can be accomplished against the will and the predestination of the Most High." ' Seeing how little importance the Khivans attached to the Rus- sian demands when unsupported by force of arms, General Kauf- mann reported to the Ministry of War the necessity of changing relations with Khiva, and suggested in case of war that one expe- dition be sent from Tashkent, and another from Krasnovodsk. By a letter dated March 25 (13), 1870, the Minister of War informed General Kanfmann that his views had met with the Emperor's approval. ' Meanwhile the Khan of Khiva sent an envoy to Krasnovodsk, but on the way he had interviews with Turkomans, and counselled them to unite against the Russians. Colonel Stoletof, the com- mander of Krasnovodsk, however, had received orders from the Minister of Foreign Affairs to have no negotiations with the ambassador except for a private agreement with regard to the protection of commercial caravans, but to refer him to the Governor- General of Turkistan as the person having the necessary full powers. ' In the spring of 1870 there were new disturbances among the Kirghiz at Mangyshlak ; and Colonel Rukin, with a detachment, having been surrounded by the enemy, is said to have shot himself, while the rest were taken prisoners. ' The catastrophe of Rukin, the attack on Fort Alexandrofsky, the burning of the Nicolai station and of the neighbouring light- ships, came one after the other ; and if there had not been assist- ance rendered from the Caucasus, the fort, notwithstanding its fourteen guns, wouid have been taken by the rebels. Although all 422 APPENDIX V. this could not be directly ascribed to the Khivans, yet the evidence of the rebel prisoners plainly pointed to Khivan intrigues ; some Cossacks taken prisoners by the Kirghiz were sent by them to the Khan, and soon after received into his service ; while the rebels found in Khiva not only a refuge but protection. ' As the Khan refused compliance with our demands General Kaufmann thought it unwise to have any further diplomatic relations with Khiva, and began to prepare for war, so as to put an end to this state of things. Preparations were rendered difficult because the bad harvests of 1870 had caused a great rise in the price of provisions. Still, by May 1871 we were ready, and the Bukharan Amir consented to allow our troops to pass through his dominions. Meanwhile Khiva also made preparations. It was decided to under- take the expedition of 1871 against Khiva from the Turkistan side, the other two detachments from Orenburg and the Caucasus taking a defensive position merely, and sending out small detach- ments in order to prevent the migration of the Kirghiz. The troops sent into the Barsuks and the Ursturt kept the Steppe from rebellion, and our Kirghiz forces did not allow the Khivans to penetrate within our frontiers. The Khan determined to seek an alliance with Bukhara, but his ambassador, Baba Bii, was arrested by the Amir on a hint from Tashkent. ' At this time, however, the question of war had already been postponed on account of the final rupture with Kuldja. As General Kaufmann had decided to avoid immediate relations with Khiva, and as the Amir of Bukhara had proposed to act as mediator to remove the misunderstandings, the conditions were proposed, that Khiva should give up all Russian prisoners, should refuse further protection to marauders, and should send an embassy to Tashkent. The Amir released the Khivan envoy, and sent with him one of his own, Hadji Urak, who was treated with a certain contempt by the Khivans, who expressed surprise at the indif- ference of Bukhara. The Khan, in the final audience with the Bukharan envoy, said, " Let the Governor-General send me a polite letter with propositions of friendship and a promise not to cross w r ith his troops the boundaries of my possessions, and I will then free the eleven soldiers wdiom I keep prisoners, and will stop pillage and robbery. If he will not do that I shall not give up the prisoners, and all will be as it was before ; and it is known to God alone what will happen after that." The reply of the Khan to the Amir, — which had no seal, and consequently showed a want of respect, — denied the justice of the Russian complaints against Khiva. 'Murtaza Bii, the envoy sent back with the letter, was instructed fco enter into communication with the Governor-General. Knowing EUSSIA AND KHIVA. 423 already by experience how little success could be expected from the negotiations with the Khivans, and especially in view of the categorical tone taken of late by the presumptuous Khan, the Governor- General decided not to receive the Kb i van envoy in Tashkent, but to negotiate with him through the Amir of Bukhara. In case of the ill-success of these negotiations it was proposed once for all to finish with Khiva, but not sooner, however, than affairs had been arranged with Yakub Bek and with Kuldja. ' Meanwhile Khiva, frightened by the simultaneous advance of two columns — that of General Golovatchef from Jizakh, through the Bukan mountains, and Colonel Markozof's from Krasnovodsk — decided on coming to terms, and sent two embassies in the beginning of 1872 (Murtaza Bii and Baba Nazar Atalyk), one to Tiflis and the other to Orenburg. In spite of the order of the Emperor — which was well known to the Khivan Government — that relations should be carried on exclusively with the Governor- General at Turkistan, the Khivans, it is evident, doubted the solidarity of the relations with the adjoining Russian provinces, and hoped in Orenburg and Tiflis to find a support against the demands of Tashkent. ' In a letter to the Grand Duke Michael the Khan wrote as follows : — " Be it known to your friendly heart that from the olden time alliance has existed between our high governments. Our relations have been sincere, and our friendship is strengthened from day to day, as though the two governments constituted one govern- ment and the two peoples one people. But last year your armies established themselves at Tcheleken, on the coast of the Kharesm Gulf, under the pretext of commercial aims. Not long ago a small detachment of these troops advanced as far as Sary Kamysh, which as from of old belongs to us, but returned thence. Besides this, from Tashkent and Ak Masjid Russian troops have advanced to the wells Ming Bulak, lying in our hereditary possessions. It is un- known to us whether the Grand Duke knows of this or not. Meanwhile, we have never done anything which could interfere with our friendly relations to you. Four or five of your people were captured by some Kirghiz, but we took them away and keep them with us. If you wish to keep up friendly relations with us, then conclude a treaty that each of us shall be contented within our lawful boundaries. Then we will return to you all your pri- soners. But if these prisoners serve you only as a pretext for war against us, with the aim of extending your dominions, then the will of the Almighty be done." ' The envoys were stopped, one at Temur-khan-shura and the other at Orenburg, and were told that they would not be permitted to go either to the Imperial Court or vo the Lieutenant of the 424 APPENDIX V. Caucasus, and that no letters could be received from them until the prisoners were released and an embassy sent to Tashkent. The Khivans saw the mistake, but no longer wished to rectify it. Instead of sending an embassy to Tashkent they sent one to India with a request for help against Russia. The Viceroy, as was to be expected, advised them to make peace with Russia, obey her demands, and yive no cause for further dissatisfaction.' TURKISTAK by Eugene Seliuyicr s if Mil m^ %IP BDIF TTIKltE K&M MATES"'"; Ml PA1T ■Mff 1HISSIAI According to the latest topographical surveys and astronomical determinations -y- ;,v-,.,„. SK ,R3,v-'" M o -i ii n K ^7 - ?P&/ Lm,h»i . Umiixm I K INDEX. ABB ABBASIDES, the. 365 Abbot, 361 Abd-er-Rezzak, 375 Abdrasul Amir, ii. 183 Abdu-Baisher Peak, legend of, 311 Abdul Aziz, 380 Abdul Hai, ii. 308 Abdul Kaum, 357, ii. 280 Abdul Kerim, 358 Abdul Kerim Bek, 357, 359 ; ii. 280 ; surrender of, ii. 282 Abdul Kerim Devan Begi, ii. 68, 75, 338, 339 Abdullah Bek, ii. 301 Abdullah bin Hamid, 365 Abdullah Khan, of Bukhara, 70, 72, 112, 230-232, 286, 287, 380, 381; ii. 33, 394; tomb of, ii. 114 Abdullah, the Interpreter, 2, 11 Abdullah Manim, 383 Abdullah Nameh, 381 Abdullatif Mirza, 252, 340, 380 Abdurrahim, ii. 62 AbdurrahmanAftobatcha, 317, 348,355, 358 ; ii. 57, 281, 282, 284, 291, 295, 299 ; abandoned by nearly all his fol- lowers, ii. 292 ; retreats, ii. 291 ; sent prisoner to Tashkent, ii. 300 ; surren- ders, ii. 299 Abdurrahman Batyr, 339, 359 Abdur Rnhman Khan. 260 ; ii. 312, 313, 316; appearance of, 261; correspon- dence with General Kaufmann, ii. 312, 313; interview with, 262 Abdush Kur Datkha, 280 Abel-Remusat, ii. 136 Abi (irrigated lands), 286 Abil Ogla, Sultan, ii. 183, 185, 188 Ab-Kaneh, ii. 91 Ab-Khurek, ii. 287 Ablai Khan, 34. 71 Ablutions, 121 Ablyk, 188 Abramof, Captain, ii. 288 AGR Abramof, General, 92, 110, 112, 114, 233, 234, 243, 267, 389 ; ii. 62, 65, 68, 74, 78, 3i)5, 306, 307, 312, 338; assaults -wall of Tashkent, 114; com- mands Iskender Kul expedition, 281- 283 Abu Bek, Khali f, 154, 155 Abul Faradj, 408 Abul Feiz Khan, 255, 383, 384, 386 Abul Gaffar Bek, 88, 241, 243, 280, 312, 339 ; ii. 65 66, 297, 300 Abul Ghazi, 105, 330, 376, 377, 378, 381, 383, 384, 385 Abulkhairides, the, 379 Abul Khair Khan, 31, 34, 71, 377, 379, 381; ii. 409 Abul Seid, 340 Abu Muslim, 369 'Account of journey to the west,' 394 Accusations against Russia, ii. 260 Adaef tribes of Kirghiz, ii. 342, 346 Adam Krylgan, wells of, ii. 340 Adamoli, 200 Adras, 190 Adrasbar, 69 ' Adventures in Central Asia,' 263, 264, Adzi bai, 338 Afghan Amir, the, ii. 267 Afghan sore, the, 148 Afghan Turkisran, ii. 267 Afghanistan, ii. 266, 306, 312, 386, 394; politics, 150, 262; Rebellion in, 2'iO ; ii. 314; Russian relations with, ii. 314 Afghans, 123, 186 ; ii. 56, 82 Africa, 371 Afrosiah, 236 Afzul Khan, 260 Agatchly, 229 Agengeran river, 51, 323 Ag-on, 397 Agovanie, 406 Agriculture in Central Asia, 289-297 426 INDEX. AGR Agricultural products, ii. 56 Ai-balta, ii. 91 Aibugir lake, 28 Aidar Hodja, ii. 74, 307 Aidin, ii. 3-44 Aiekh river, 406 Aim Keninghez, ii. 73 Aim Serai, ii. 94, 101 .Aitek river, ii. 154 Ak Atabai tribe, the, ii. 381 Ak Darya, 286, 288 Akbal Tekkes, the, ii. 383 Akhmet, 14, 15 Akhmet Yassaviit : see Yassavi Akhrab, 339, 340 Akhrar Khan, ii. 319, 320 Akhsi, 324, 375 Akhyr-tash, 398, ii. 121 Akhyr-tepe, ii. 121 Akjar, 61, 321 Ak-julpas, 26 Aklcent, ii. 158 Ak-Khan, ii. 143 Ak-Mametef, 14, 21 Ak-Masjid, 64, 67, 351; ii. 413, 416, 423 Akmolinsk, 404 Ak-Padsha, ii. 143 Akeakal, ii. 205 Aksakals, 377 ; ii. 206, 241 ; in Tash- kent, 103 Ak Serai, ruins of, 255 ; ii. 68 Aksha, ii. 267 Ak-su river, 343, 375, 410 ; ii. 126, 150, 319 ; derivation of name, 275 Ak-tag, 390 Aktash mountains, 321 Aktau mountains, 241, 274, 275 Aktcha-kul Lake, ii. 417 Ak TengMs, ii. 154 Ala Eddin Mohammed, Sultan, 34 J, 400, 405 Alai mountains, 51, 274 ; ii. 12, 22, 45, 55 Ala Khan, ii. 183' Alak-tugul-nor, 401 Ala-kul, kke, 400, 401, 405,410; ii. 133, 155, 191 Alaman, ii. 383 Ala Myshak, ii. 130 Ala Tau mountains, the, 34, 397, 400, 401, 402, 405; ii. 127, 128, 145, 191 Alatcha. 123, 189 Ala Tengis, ii. 154 Albazin, ii. 400, 403 Albedil, Major, 245 Al Biruni, 367 Ale, English, 79 Alexander the Great, 115, 366, 369 ; ii. 142, 411; Legend of tomb at Mar- AMT ghilan, ii. 50; legends of, 277; at Samarkand, 236, 237 Alexander Lyceum, 302 Alexandria, 237 Alexandrofsky, Fort, 46 ; attack on, ii. 421 Alexandrofsky ran^e, the, 37, 54, 393, 398, 400, 402, 404, 410 ; ii. 123, 126, 127, 378 Alexis Tsar, 9 ; ii. 399 Ali, disputed rights of descendants of, 155 Ali Khalif, 154 A-li-ma, 395, 396, 397 A-li-ma-li, 399 Alim Bii, 352 Alim Hadji Yunusof, 90, 91, 225; im- prisonment of, 100 Alim Khan, 341, 343, 347, 348, 359 Alim Kul, 112, 350, 351, 352, 353, 358 ; death of, 93 ; regent, 73, 75 Alim Patcha, 343 Alim Tu, ii. 158, 186 Allah Kul, 346, 347 Alleged instigation of Kirghiz by Khi- vans, ii. 331 'Allgemeine Zeitung,' the, ii. 386 Alma, ii. 145 Almagest, 331 Almalyk, 396, 405, 410; ii 159, 165 Almatiuki, ii. 145 Almaty, ii. 145 Almonds, ii. 3 Alpine region of Central Asia, 274; ii. 132 Alps, the, 402, 404, 405 Altai Mountains, the, 390 Altcbin, 203 Alti Soldamis, 400 Alty-Kuduk, ii. 343, 347 Altyn Bishik Mountains, 311 ; legend of the, 311 Altyn Imel, ii. 153, 156 Altyn Khan, ii. 397 Alum on the Fan, 279 Alyama, 167 Amban of Torbagatai, the, ii, 172, 179 Amban of Eastern Turkistan, the, ii. 172 America, Bukharan idea of, ii. 66 American towns, 76 Americans, 46 Aminof, Baron, 276, 282 Amir of Balkh, the, 48 Amir of Bokhara, see Mozaffar Eddin Amir el-Muminim, 386 Amir of Kabul, ii. 267, 313 Amir Khan, 341 Amir Nasrullah, the, 386 Amir Said, 383 INDEX. 427 AMI Amiri Reshid, 370 Amiri Shedid, 370 Amlak lands, 299 Ammonia, ii. 26 Amu Darya, the, 50, 68, 105-110, 148 331, 335, 337. 339, 340, 347. 351. 363, 364, 367, 379 ; ii. 342, 386, 395, 401 ; ancient bed of, 53 ; annex- ation of right bank of, 364 ; ex- ploration of, ii. 373 ; navigation of, 221, 222; ii. 363; old bed of, ii. 363 ; probable explanation of change of course, 53-55, 59 ; right bank of, ii. 363 ; Russian reasons for annex- ing right bank of, ii. 365-367 ; trade route along, 221 Amu Darya Rayon, the, ii. 369 Amulets, 130 Amur, the, ii. 397, 399, 415 Amursana, ii. 168, 402 Amusements in Central Asia, 126-140 Amuye, 364 Ancient Necropolis, an, ii. 381 Andi, 111 Andijan, 187, 339, 347, 348, 351-354, 356, 358; ii. 38-43. 281; armoury at, 41, 42 ; Baber's description of, ii. 38 ; bazaar at, 38 ; Bek of, 39, 40 ; bombardment of, ii. 296; expedition against, ii. 295 ; Nazarof's descrip- tion of, ii. 42 ; palace at, 39-41 ; population of, 42 ; road to, ii. 38, 42 ; revolts against, ii. 294 ; stormed by Russians, ii. 295; surrenders to Rus- sians, ii. 292 Andrei, ii. 2, 39, 69, 70, 106, 113 Anev, Fortress of, ii, 383 Angren, river, 323, 325 ; ii. 284, 286 Anjini, 28 Ankibalekh, 406 Anne, the Empress, ii. 403 Ansyr, 202 Antimochus, 237 Antioch, 402 Aphrodisiacs, ii. 135 Apollodorus, 367 Apothecaries in Tashkent, 180 Appak family, the, 342 Appanage system in Central Asia, ii. 72 Appendix I. 337-359 Appendix II. 360-389 Appendix TIL 390-411 Appendix IV. ii. 391-415 Appeudix V. ii. 416-424 Apple (alma), 396 Apples, 296 Apricots, 296 Aqueducts, ii. 381 Arabesques, ii. 194 ARM Arabian nights, 80, 226 ; geographers, 50 ; writers, 111 ; horses, 129 Arabic inscriptions, 62, 71 ; language. 110 ; names, 389 ; physicians, 150 Arable land in Zarafshan Valley, 284 ; in Central Asia, 284, 285 Arabs, the, 154, 340 ; at Katta Kurgan and Kukertli, 109, 110; in Samar- kand, 23? Arab Shah, 373, 374 Aragatzofu, 405 Aral flotilla, 44, 50, 320, 336; con- struction and cost of, 56-60 ; fate of detachment for Khiva from, ii. 374, 378 ; formation of, 56 ; fuel for, 57, 58 ; statistics of traffic, 60 ««Aral. The Shores of Lake ' (Wood's), ii. 373 Aralo-Caspian basin, the, 28 Aralo-Caspian exploring expeditions, 28 ; ii, 374 Aral Sea, the, 15, 16,22, 23, 26, 31, 47, 49, 50, 53, 55, 57 ; ii. 374 ; analysis of water of, 27, 28 ; depth of, 28 ; former extent of, 28; level of, 28; view of, 27 Aral steamers, the, 58, 59 Aral Turkomans, the, ii. 384 Aral-tepe, ii. 135 Aran Makhmet, ii. 329 Arasan, ii. 153 Aravan, ii. 48 Arba, the, 130 Arborsecco, the, 138 Arbun, tribe of, ii. 200 Arbuz, 297 Arc 1 1 geological journey in Turkistan in 1867 by P. Lerch, 363, 401 Archery, ii. 170 Architecture, Persian, inherited from Babylonia, 248 ; in Samarkand, 251 Archives of the Ministry of Crown Domains, ii. 210 Archives of Senate at St. Petersburg, ii. 210 Archives at Wilna and Kief, ii. 210 Argamak horses, 129, 153, 338 Arganaty, ii. 154, 155 Argoz, 53 Aristan Bel Kuduk, 68; ii. 337, 339 Aristof, Mr., ]i. 174, 199 Ark, ii. 10, 65 Arkatch. ii. 382 Arlekh, 406 Armenia, 405, 407, 408 Armoury at Andijan, ii. 41, 42; at Khokand, ii. 10,' 11 Army, Amir of Bukhara's, ii. 81, 82 the Khokandian, ii. 15, 16 Army contracts, 98 428 INDEX. ARS Arshin, 203 Arslan Khan, 370 Art a mis, 367 Artillery, Khokandian, ii. 10 Arunhazi, 32 Arvatu, ii. 379 Aryan race, the, 105 Ary river, 51, 74, 320 Arzaz, 53 Arzengan, 408 Asad, 329, 330 Asef Barkhi, ii. 44 Ash, 151 Ashtarkanides, or Astrakan Dytasty, 381 Ashula, 344, 359 Ashur-Kuli Bek of Shaar, ii. 73 Asiatic Museum at St. Petersburg, 384 Asiatic ■water-mill, 101 Asoh, 407 Assa-bibi, ii. 121 Assadullah Bek, 91-95 ; account of Alimkul's death, 93 ; account of Malla Khan's murder, 92 ; women's dance at house of, 136, 137 Assafcetida plant, 228 Assake, ii. 292 Assassination, attempt at, ii. 113 Asses, 130, 278 Astrabad, ii. 415 Astrakhan, 35, 38, 411; ii. 265, 329, 393, 396, 415 Astrakhan dynasty, 383 Astrakhanides, the, 382, 384 Atabai, ii. 22 Atabai Yomuds, the, ii. 384 Ata Bek, 113, 354, 356; ii. 7, 9, 10, 274, 280, 282 Ata Jan, ii. 350, 352 Atalyk, the, 348. 359, 384; ii. 7, 9, 10 Atalyk, the, of Khokand, 113; ii. 9 Atalyk Ghazi, the, ii. 387 Atamkul, ii. 417 Ata Murat, ii. 376 Atna, 332 Attack on Col. Dennet, ii. 277 Attack on Station of Karasu, ii. 254 Attempt to prove that Turkistan pays for expenses of keeping, ii. 218 Attila, the, 391 Attrek, the, ii. 344, 381, 385 ; reconnais- sance of, ii. 380 Audkhoi, 367 Aul, 19 ; ii. 205 Aulie-ata, 37, 41, 75, 111, 350, 391, 393, 409, 411 ; ii. 120, 123, 205, 284; appearance of, ii. 120; capture of, ii. 1 20 ; climate of, 327 ; geographical features of country surrounding, ii. 122 ; origin of name, ii. 121 ; storm- BAN ing of, ii. 120 ; tomb at, ii. 121 ; traditions of, ii. 121 Autehi pass, 275 Autobiography of Tamerlane, 374 Avas Turdi, ii. 376 Avher, 407 Ayaguz river, ii. 154 Ayub, legend of, 191, 193 Ayuka Khan, the, ii. 167, 399 Azeni sect, the, 156 Azim Bai, 99 Azim Kazi, ii. 237 Azim Khan, 260 Azim Seet, 156 Azof, 401 BABA BEK, 340; ii. 277, 286; character of, 87 ; expulsion of, ii. 307 ; history of, 85 Babaef. 264 Baban, ii. 92 ; defeat of, 307 Baba Nazar Atalyk, ii. 423 Baber, 337, 378, 379; description of Andijan, 38 ; description of the Khokandian Desert, 51 ; description of Marghilan, 49 ; description of Samarkand, 238, 240 ; ii. 71, 97, 394; description of Ush, 44 Babylonian Calendar, 334 Bactria, 366 Bactrian, 237 Badakshan, 364 ; ii. 267, 316 Badam, 395 Badaulet, ii. 320 Baha Uddin, 158; ii. 113, 303 Baiga, 41, 268; ii. 308 Baikof, ii. 395 Bakali, ii. 339 Bakar, ii. 376 Bala Ishem, ii. 345, 380 Balan 395 ; ii. 3 Bala Sagun, 112, 395 ; ii. 122 Balcony, 120 Balkan Mountains, ii. 382 Balkash, 402, 405 Balkash Lake, 30, 54, 402 ; ii. 152, 154, 155 Balkatsi Nor. ii. 154 Balkh, 48, 97, 260, 348, 361, 368, 410; ii. 167, 267 Balkhi, 364, 367 Balls of the Governor-General, 82 Balyk, 368 Balyktchi, 35G ; ii. 21, 22, 23, 25, 51, 298 ; capture of, 298 Bang, 127 Banking facilities in Tashkent, absence of. 204 Ba-pu, 395 INDEX. 429 BAR Barak Khan, 232 Bara-kok, ii. 44 Baranta, 39; ii. 206, 411 Barbers in the Tashkent Bazaar, 180 Barbieri, 200; ii. 162 Barbotte de Marny, ii. 374 Barbus fluviatilis, 277 Barchin, 400, 401 Bardashef, ii. 137 Barkul, 409 Barley, 290, 398 Barley-sugar, ii. 162 Barsuks, ii. 422 Bashkirs, their language and origin, numbers and occupation, 3 ; house of a batchelor, 4 ; yamstchiks, 4 ; housekeeping, 5 ; ii. 396, 406 Basiiis Bat;izzi. 360 Basiner, 361 ; ii. 414 Bassano, Duke of, ii. 258 Bassj'z, ii. 137 Batchas, 132-139; description of a performance of, 133, 134; former prohibition against, 132 ; respect paid to, 133 ; retained by men of rank, 133 Bitchu-Nuin, 405, 407 Baths at Bukhara, ii. 3, 4, 9 Batman, 201, 202 Bator Kuntaitsi. ii. 166, 398 Batu, 400, 406, 407 ; generalissimo, 405 Baty, 378 Batyr Bek, 32, 91 Batyr Khan Tiura, 357 ; ii. 296 ; defeat of, 297 ; surrender of, 299 Bayandai, ii. 172 ; capture of, 180 ; ruins of, 192 Bayktchi, surrender of, ii. 292 Bazaar-Kutche, ii. 193 Bazaars in Bukhara, ii. 14, 15, 16, 94 ; in Karshi, 79 ; in Kazala, 46 ; Kir- ghiz, in Tashkent, 183, 184; at Urntepe. 311; in Hodjent, 314; in Sbaar, ii. 71; in Tashkent, 173, 174, 175; in Turkistan, 73 Bazem dance, 133-138 Bear, the Great, 325 Bebalma, 321 Bed-bug, 149; ii. 125 Beets, ii. 161 Bei, dynasty of, 366 Bek of Andijan, 348 Bek of Tashkent, 348 Bekovitch-Tcherkaski, Prince, 322 ; ii. 372; campaign of. ii. 329; defeats Khivans, 329 ; massacred, 329, 401, 408 Bek Murad Bek, 340 Bek Kuli, ii. 323 BOL Beklar Bek Medresse Tashkent, 101 Bek Nureddin Khan, ii. 77, 78 Bek of Khokand. ii. 25, 26, 27 Bektchurin. Professor, 14 Belkhi, 365 Benedict, Friar, 400, 401 Bentinck, 376 Berbalikh, 406, 409 Berdan rifles, ii. 10 Berdy Murad Khan, ii. 383 Berezof, ii. 149 Berintzef, ii. 147 Berkent, 406 Beshbalikh (Bishbalik), 406 Besh Kala, ii. 384 Bestan, 407 Beznosikof, General, 222, 361 Biaz, use of at Tashkent, 189, 190 Bibi Khanym, Medresse of, 249, 250 ; tradition of, 251 Biely Tsar, ii. 143 Biely-yar, ii. 396 Bie-shi-ba, 394 Bie-shi-ba-li, 398 Biesze-ma, 395 Bigayat cataracts, 109 Bii, 384 Biis, the, 166-169 ; among Kara- Kirghiz, ii. 139, 141 ; elections of, ii. 140, 141 ; jurisdiction of, ii. 140 ; at Tokmak, council of, 140, 141 Bikasab, 190 Biki, ii. 79, 80 Binaket, 340 Birth, customs and superstitions at, 140 Biscuits, ii. 337, 338 Bisermins, the, 401 Bish-agatch, 103 Bisharyk, ii. 53, 54, 290 Bishbalik, 410 Biskent, 324 Bitter Paper, ii. 236 Black bone, 32 ; ii. 405 Black Irtysh, 403, 405 Black Kirghiz, 30 Black Kitayans. the, 400 Black Sea, ii. 265 Blagovestchensky, Col., ii. 339 Blankennagel, 361 Blowgun, the, 129 Blue Horde, the, 377, 378 Blue Sea, 50, 53 Bock, Admiral, 48 Bogandof, Mr., ii. 374 Bogari, 287, 288 Bogdanovitch, 223 Bogra Khan, 365 Bogu, ii. 137 Bolak, 395 Bob, 395, 398, 399 430 INDEX. BON Bones in Lake Issyk Kill, ii. 128 Book of the Great Survey, the, ii. 393 Books in Bukhara, ii. 97 ; used at school, 164 Boots, 123 Boris, 382 Borokhoro, ii. 188 Borokhudzir, ii. 157; fight at, ii. 185 ; outpost at, ii. 186 Boroldai, 32C Boron Gar, ii. 166 Borotala river, 395 Borotala valley, ii. 190 Boshan. 390 Bos-su Canal, 102, 103 Boundaries of Afghanistan, ii. 267, 269 Boundary Court, ii. 406 Boundary of Khiva, ii. 418 Boundary of Persia, the, ii. 384 Bourre de Soie, 198 Bows, 128 Bows and arrows, ii. 193 Boyandur, ii. 376 Boyars, ii. 391, 392 Buzhovitch, Capt., ii. 159, 188 Brandy, 297 ; distilled by Jews, 297 Brass workers in Tashkent, 176, 177 Brazil, indigo imported from, 182 Bretschneider, Dr., 188, 238, 397, 398; notes on Chinese Mediaeval travellers to the West, 394 Bricks, Chinese, ii. 160 Bridge of Arbas, ii. 134 ; at Hodjent. 323 ; ii. 34 ; at Karshi, ii. 80 ; 'over the Kashka, ii. 80 ; over the Naryn at Utch Kurgan, ii. 33 ; over Naryn, ii. 33 ; over Syr Darya, ii. 23; over the Tchirtchik, 324, 325 Briteh-mulla, 200 Brodofsky, 291 Bronzes, ii. 193 Brunow, Baron, ii. 314 Brnssa, 240 ; ii. 97 Brunn, Prof. Philip, 401 ; ii. 122 Buara Pass, the, ii. 127 Buchannan, Sir Andrew, ii. 267 Buchholtz, Captain, 322 ; ii. 401 Budai, 291 Budatcha, 95 Buddha, 78, 368 Buddhist, 38; influence in Central Asia, ii. 89 ; monastery, pieces of, ii. 121 ; temple in Kuldja, ii. 194 Buddhist temple, ruins of, ii. 163 Bud-khaneh, 78 Bugdaily, 344, 381 Bugdaily lake, ii. 380, 382 Bugun river, 51, 74 Bukan mountains, the, ii. 339 Bukan-tau mountains, 68, 274; ii- 332 BUZ Buke'ef, 34; horde of Kirghiz, 1 Bukhar, 368, 385, 386, 387, 388, 389 Bukhara. 45, 48, 71, 85-97, 113, 123 130, 132, 147, 148, 149, 150, .82, 184, 342, 344, 345, 346, 347 348, 350, 351, 353. 395, 407; ii 61- J 18, 167, 265, 266, 267, 305. 438 343, 370, 374, 394, 356. 400 401, 104, Ab-Khaneh at, ii. 91 advantages of conquest of. ii. 312 , approach to, ii. 84, 85 ; ark at, i: 89. 90 ; army of, ii. 82 ; artillery a'., ii. 89,' 90 ; bazaars in, ii. 94 ; camp at, ii. 82 ; clock at, ii. 90 ; early name of, ii. 89 ; famine in, ii 292, 293; fruit at, ii. 87 ; houses at, ii. 87, 89 ; irrigation -of, 286, 287 ; Khana Khaneh at, ii. 91 ; Kush Begi of, ii. 91 ; legendary origin of, 277; life in, ii. 86; Ma- narai Kalian at, ii. 92 ; museum at, ii. 91 ; native society in, ii. 98 ; production of silk at, ii. 193; Rig- histan at, ii. 89, 90 ; relations of Russia with, ii. 302-312; relations with the Porte, ii. 308; slave trade said to be abolished in, ii. 310; streets of, ii. 88; trades, ii. 91-97, 214, 219 ; trade routes with, ii. 220, 221 ; water of, ii. 87 Bukharan Amir, the ; sdeni, 339 Erdeni Bek, 339, 359, 386 ' Erdkunde,' Ritter's, ii. 257 Erman, 334 Ertitch, 406 Esaul Bashi, canal of, ii. 375 Esaul Bashi, Mahmud, ii. 418 Esen, the Taitsi, ii. 166 Eskedjiket, 367 Establishment of a post at Krasnovodsk, ii. 419 Etel (Volga) river, 405 Europe, 366 European travel forbidden in Central Asia, 48 Euryangium, 181 Euthydermus, 237; ii- 97 Eversmann, 361 ; ii. 409 Evidence in law courts, superstitious practices in default of, 170, 171 Exactions of the Khan, ii. 57, 89 Executions, ii. 16 ; in Shahrisabs, ii. 71 Expenses of Tashkent, 104 Exploration of country south of Emba, ii. 332 Exploring expeditions of road to Khiva, ii. 332 Export duties, ii. 17 Expulsion of the English from Af- ghanistan, Grigorief 's account of the, ii. 257 Extraordinary credits, demands for, ii. 229 Extravagance and mismanagement of officials, ii. 251 Ezdedjerd, 369 "I? AIR. Irbit, 209 ; Nizhni Novgorod J 209 ; Tashkent, 207, 208, 209, 210, 212 JNDEX. 435 FAL Falbin, ii. 32 Falcons, 128, 338 Falgar, 279, 280, 283 Famine in Central Asia, 292, 293 Famished Steppe, 108. 226 ; difficulties of crossing the, 227 ; projects for irrigating the, 227 Fanaticism of Central Asia, 162 ; Mus- sulman, 161 Fandarya, 275, 277 Farab, 87, 279, 280, 283 Farsang, 203 Fazil Bii, 339 Fazyl Eek, 357 Fedor, Tsar, 53 Fedotof, Ivan, 382 Fedtchenko, 181, 278; ii. 38, 46, 55, 125; on silkworms, 198 Felt, manufacture of, 183, 184 Fenn, 399 Feodor Iranovitch, the Tsar, ii. 394, 395 Ferdonof, merchant, 323 Ferghana, 338, 340, 358, 394 ; ii. 300 Ferghana Valley, 51 ; ii. 54 Ferhat, story of, 108 Festival of the Elevation of the Holy Cross, 406 Figs, ii. 87 Filaria, 147 Filature, silk, 199 Finns, ii. 136 Firdusi, 105 Fire-arms, manufacture of, 178 Fire-engine, ii. 15 Fire worship, ii. 137 Fischer, Captain, ii. 152 Flavitsky, Mr., 323 ; ii. 1, 2 Flax, 294 Fleas, 149 Flood, ii. 120 Floods of Syr Darya, 52 Florio Beneveni. 360, 382 ; ii. 329 Flotilla on the Aral Sea, ii. 404 Flour, ii. 198 Flowers, use of, ii. 87 Forage, ii. 338 Forests, cultivation of, ii. 158 ; lack of, iu Semiretch. ii. 150 Forsyth, Mr., ii. 266, 387 ; mission, ii. ,323 Fort No. 1, 44, 57, 58, 65, 148 ; ii. 335, 337 Fort Mo. 2, 46, 52, 55, 61, 62, 63 ; Rus- sian, on the Steppe, 32, 33 Fort Alexandrofsky, 46 ; ii. 379 Fort Naryn, ii. 133, 317 Fort Perovsky, 52, 53, 54, 55, 57, 58, 60, 62-64, 350, 351 ; capture of, 64; description of, 64, 65 Fort Rain, 44; ii. 412 GES Fort St. George, ii. 340 Fortifications, at Cape Urgu, ii. 419 , of Kopal, ii. 412 ; on the Turgai and Irghiz, ii. 412 Fortress at Khokand, ii. 10 'Forty turns,' 123 Fovitsky, Colonel, 319, 320 Fowls, ii. 196, 383 Frsehn, 381, 401 Fraser, the Mussulman, 38, 361 Fraternities, religious, 158 Freight, 220 French and Italian Catholic mission- aries, ii. 194 French influence in Andijan, ii. 42 Fruit, 365 ; in Bukhara, ii. 87 Fuchsine, 182 Fuel, ii. 338 ; for Aral flotilla, 57, 58 ; at Kuklja, ii. 152 ; in Tashkent, 102 ; at Vierny, ii. 152 Fulstein, Gerburt von, 263 Funeral custom. 1 -, 151, 152 Funeral feasts, 151 Funerals, 150, 151 Furniture of native houses. 120 Further extension of Russian limits within Central Asia, ii. 412 GABRIEL, Archangel, 153, 182 Gaillardet, M., ii. 259 Galdan, 150; ii. 167 Galdan Tsyran, 112; ii. 168 Galtchas, 106, 277, 278, 311 Galvers, 202 Gambling, 128 Game of the grey wolf, 268, 269 Games in the Zarafhan Valley, 278 Gantzak, 408 Gao-tchan, ii. 173 Gap, 151 Garber, Colonel, 360, 383 Gardening school, ii. 146, 150 Gardens, 297 ; ii. 37 ; at Paita, ii. 37 ; at Tashkent, 101, 102 Gate, sitting in the, ii. 91 Gates, of Derbent, 406 ; of Tamerlane, 231 Gems, ii. 203 Genealogical Table, of the sovereigns of Khokand, 359 ; of rulers of Xo- histan, 280 ' Geographical Magazine,' ii. 373 Geographical Society of Geneva, ii. 374 Georgian ruler, the, ii. 395 Gerburt von Fulstein, 263 German colonies, 2 German prisoners, 395 Germans, ancestors of, 105 ' Geschichte der Chalifen,' 368 f f 2 436 INDEX. GET Getse, ii. 164 Ghazi, or Conqueror of the Infidels, 342 Giaz, 202 Gibon, 50 Giovanni Orlandi, ii. 90, 91 Girdle of semi-independent States, ii. 266 Girdles, 123 Girei, Kirghiz Sultan, 30 Girls, education of, 165 Giug, 405 Gizhitzky, 79 Glacier, Muzart, ii. 135 ; Petrof, 50 ; of the Zarafhan, 276, 281 Gladishef, 360 Gladstone, Mr., ii. 268 Glass, manufacture of, 188 ; works, 37 Glauber's Salts, 69 Glukhofsky, Colonel, ii. 302, 354, 379, 386 ; his trading adventures, 220 Godunof, ii. 394, 395 Goitre, ii. 15 Goklans, the, 381, 382, 384 Gold, ii. 400; in Zarafshan, 278; in Central Asia, 322 Golden Horde, the, 376, 377, 378, 380, 391, 392, 393 Golden Mountain, the, 390 Gold mines in Siberia and the Ural, ii. 414 Gold sand in Little Bukhara, ii. 329 Golo-donaya Steppe, 226, 227 Golof, Colonel, ii. 337, 368 Golovatchef, General, 243 ; ii. 284, 286, 287, 337, 347, 350, 356, 357, 358, 359, 363, 423 ; narrow escape of, ii. 361 Golubef, 401 Gomar, 341 Gortchakof, Prince, 302; ii. 260,261 262, 263, 266, 314, 336, 387 Goths, the, ii. 164 Government, ii. 57 ; chancery expenses at Riga, ii. 209 ; chancery expenses in Eastern Siberia, ii. 209 ; chancery expenses in Western Siberia, ii. 209 ; chancery expenses at Wilna, ii, 209 Government of India, the, ii. 387 Governor General's palace at Tashkent, 78 Gowher Shadi, 375 Gowns, 188 Grreco-Bactrian coins, ii. 97 ; dynasty, the, 237 ; kingdom, ii. 164 Grain, 336; cause of dearness of, ii. 217 ; at Karshi, 79 ; produce of taxes on, ii. 217 ; production of, 292, 293 ; table showing rise of prices of, 285 HAI Grard Duke Michael, ii. 262. 263, 335, 377, 423 Grand Duke Nicholas, ii. 337, 347 Granville, Lord, 223 Grapes, 297, 399 Graves, 151 Grazzi, Modesto, ii. 90 Great and Little Barsuk, the, 401 Great Bear, the, 397 Great Mogul in India, 340 Great Mogul, the, ii. 3£5 Great Survey, Book of the, 50, 53 Great Wall, the, 365, 391 Great White Tsar, ii. 289 Grebenkin, 292 Greeks, the, 50 Green Banner, troops of the, ii. 172 Green Mound, the, ii. 381 Green pepper, ii. 196 Gretchenko, Jevgraf, ii. 19, 2C Greybeard, ii. 205 Grib, 382 Grigorief, Prof.. 360; ii. 237, 257, 258, 273, 391 ; views on Turanians and Scythians, 105, 109 Grimm, Dr., 27 Gripsholm, castle of, ii. 415 Gromof, Mr., 79 ; ii. 363 Guberlinsky Mountains, 16, 22 Guilds, the thirty-two, 173 Guinea-worm, 147 Guitar, origin of, 131 Gulf of Corea, 390 Gulf of Karabugaz, ii. 382 Gulf of Tustche bas, ii. 374 Gultcha Turkomans, the, ii. 372 Gumagur, 406, 409 Gur' Amir. 252 Gurgan, the, ii. 344, 382, 385 Gurgil, ii. 291 Gurkhan. the, 371, 372; ii. 122 Gushi-Khan. ii. 398 Guz, 107. 367 Gypsies, ii. 41, 42 HABA BAI, ii. 2 Ha-Dervish desert, ii. 51 Hadji Bek, 353 Hadji Bii, 343, 345, 359 Hadji Nefus, ii. 329 Hadji Urak, ii. 422 Hadjis Ijma-u-Ummet and Kea's sup- plements to Koran, 154, 155 Hafistas, 234, 235 Hafiz, 163 Hafiz Tanysh, 381 Hafta, 332 Haider Razi, 404 Haie-tic-shan, tho, 299 INDEX. 4 37 HAI Hiir-ullah, 127, 225, 226 Hakim Bek, ii. 238, 271 ; at Kitab, ii. 73, 74 Hakim Kush Begi, ii. 114 Hakluyt, 400 Hakluyt's voyages, 404 Hakodati, ii. 415 Halvah, 121 Halyk Nazar Parmanatchi, ii. 282, 292 ; pardoned, ii. 293 Hammer, 371, 372 Hanbal, the, 1C6 Ilau dynasty, the, 366 Hanifet, the, 156 Hanify, ii. 29 Hanki, ii. 343, 351, 367, 369, 375 Hansu, ii. 173, 178, 319, 371; insur- rection at, ii. 178 Haradj, 103, 303; ii. 206, 241, 302; year, 331 Harness, 129, 130 Harvests, 290; in the Zarafhan, 291, 292 ; bad, ii. 308 Hasarasp, ii. 343 ; occupied, ii. 342 Hasfort, General, ii. 154 Hasfort Pass, ii. 154 Hatem, 408 Hayton, 408 Hazavat, ii. 282, 357 Hazavat Canal, ii. 358 Hazorasband, 69 Hazret, ii. 27 ; meaning of, 73 Hazret Bohoueddin, tomb of, ii. 113 Hazretti Turkistan. See Turkistan. Hazyr, 192 Hebrew quarter at Samarkand, 259 Hebrews, 46, 111 ; ii. 5, 6 Hedjiwan, battle of, 379 Hejra, 369 Hellwald's 'Die Eussen in Central Asien,' 387 Hemp, 294 Henry III. of Castile, 238. 374 Herat, 260, 261 ; ii. 267, 269, 383 Herodotus, 370 Hethum, King, 395 ; ii. 191 Ilii-lie-wa, 398 Himalayas, 278 ; ii. 132 Hindoos, 111, 184, 185, 186 Hindoo temple, 184 Hindoo usurers, 186 Hindu Kush, the, 363 Hiouen Thsang, 366, 368, 390, 391- 394, 410 ; ii. 122 ; mention of Tash- kent by, 1 1 1 Hippophae, ii. 127 Hissar, 88, 97, 148, 271, 278 ; ii. 276, 277; expedition, ii. 77; range, 175; ii. 62 HUI Historians, 236 Historical information about the Kirghiz Kaisaks, 382 History of Armenia, 408 History of the Mongols from Armenian sources, 408 History of Vardan the Great, 408 Hizhduvan, ii. 304 Hodja Akrar mosque at Tashkent, 101, 256 Hodja, Hussein, 70 Hodjakent, 102 ; coal at, 319 ; climate of, 327 Hodjakul, ruler of Shaar, ii. 72 Hodja Nuin, 407 Hodjas, the, 99, 337, 339, 343; mar- riages of, 142 Hodjavat, ii. 43 Hodjeili, ii. 354, 355, 375; skirmish at. ii.' 348 Ilodjent, 51, 102, 158, 187, 313-319, 339. 340, 342, 343, 349, 352, 354, 357. 395; ii. 205. 280, 284; air of, 314; approach to, 313; attack on, ii. 286; bazaar at, 314; bridge at, ii. 1 ; capture of, ii. 274; citadel of, 314 ; commercial importance of, 315 ; expedition for relief of, ii. 286 ; fruits of. 314 ; Khokandian attack on, 316, 317, 318; riot at, in 1872, 316, 317, 318 ; Russians capture, 316 Hogg, Reynold, 360 Hoi-yuan-tchan, ii. 162 Ho-lin, 398, 399 Homar, 341 Homiak, 198 Hondar, 341 Houiberger, 361 Horde, Lower, 71 Horde, Middle, 71 Horde of Batu, 408 Hordes, derivation of, 30 Hordes of Kirghiz, 3<> nori, the month, 406 Horse-Lreeding, ii. 248; at Kaplan Bek, 102 Horse-flesh, 37, 125 Horse-races, 41 Horses, 41, 129, 130, 287, 366, 399 ; ii. 383 ; Siberian, ii. 153 ; sweating blood, 338 ; Turkistan, 102 Hoshat, the, ii. 165 Ho-Urluk, ii. 398, 399 Houses, Central Asiatic, 77 ; at Tash- kent, 118, 119; in Kuldja, ii. 193 Howorth, Mr. H. H., 404 ; ii. 122 Huan-Di, ii. 143 Hufia, 158 Hui ho (Mohammedans), 396, 399 Hui-ku (Mohammedans), 394 438 INDEX. HUL Hulagu, 308 Hulava, 406, 407 Humboldt, ii. 133 Hunmu-lien, 308 Huns, the, ii. 164 Huotchou, 304 Hur-habis land, 2u0 Husbandry, systems of, 280, 290 Husbands, rights and obligations of, 145, 146 Hussein Bek of Margian, 87, 279, 280 Hussein, the little slave, ii. 108, 109 Hu-sze-wo-lu-do, 395 Hut, 329. 330 Hwang-Ti. ii. 143 Hyacinth, Bitchurin, ii. 397 Hyacinth, the monk, 237: ii. 166, 167 Hydraulics, native knowledge of, 289 jAXARTAI, 105 J. Iaxartes, 50, 104 Ibn Batuta, 377 Ibn-el Athir, 370 Ibn Haukal, 340 Ibn Khaldun, 370 Ibn Khaukal, 370 Ibn Khordadbah, 370 Ibodullah Bek, 88 Ibrahim Datkha, 345 Ice on Syr Darya, 327-8 Ich (the Emba), 391 Iconium, 408 Igdy, ii. 345, 379, 382; Russian retreat from, ii. 345; wells of, ii. 382 Ignatief, Colonel, ii. 331 ; General, 222, 361 ; ii. 417 Ik, the river, ii. 396 Ikhan, fight at, 73, 74 Ilan-balekh (serpent town), 406 Ilansu river, 406 Has Ping-li, 338 Ilek Khan, 370, 371 Iletsk district, the, ii. 411 Hi, garrison at, ii. 172 ; rebellion at, ii. 178, 179; siege of, ii. 180-2 Hi river, 54, 397, 398. 401, 410 : ii. 102 ; course of, ii. 152 ; ferry over, ii 152; navigation of, ii. 152, 153 Hiali, ii. 354 Hie, 395 Ill-advised actions of authorities, ii. 250 Ilyaii, ii. 358, 359, 363 Imam, the, of Tchugutchak, 15? ; ii. 184 Imam Kuli, ii. 273 Imamet, doctrine of, 155 Imil, 400, 410 Impalements, ii. 16 Imperial Chinese post-roads, 410; ISP commission, ii. 378 ; Geographies! Society, ii. 373; Russian Geographi- cal Society, 383 ; ii. 374 Imral tribe, the, ii. 358 Inak, the Khivan, ii. 408 Increased taxation, ii. 241, 242, 213, 241 Inclau, 182 India, 48, 90, 97, 1 50, 156, 182, 366, 367, 368, 370, 372, 382 ; ii. 398, 400, 401, 407 : to Kashgar, roads from, ii. 388 ; Kaz ; s abolished in, 168 Indian ink, 182; goot, 185 Indiffereut officers, ii. 220, 221 Indus, ii. 365 Ink, 182 Inscriptions, ii. 168 ; in Karatrgln mountains, ii. 46; Mantchu, ii. 122 ; Thibetiau, ii. 135 Inspection of the Kurama-district, ii. 254 Institution for the government of the provinces, ii. 406 ; ii. 407 Insulted by natives, ii. 49 Interest on loans, 168 Interpreters, ii. 141, 164, 195; incapa cities of, ii. 141, 142 Intoxicating liquor, 126 Irali, ii. 407 Iran, Persia, 105; ii. 312 Iranians, 105 Irbit, 209 Irdana or Erdeni, 338 Irdane, the Kush Begi of Bukhara, 344 Irdjar, battle of, ii. 302 Irghiz, tort of, 18, 22, 24, 25, 49 Irghiz river, 23, 25 Irjar, battle of, 312, 316 Irket, ii. 400, 401, 402 Irketi, 322 Irkibai, 47; ii. 339, 417 Irkutsh, 38; ii. 409 Iruazar Eltchi, at Bukhara, Medresse, ii. 93 Iron, ii. 56, 197 ; in Central Asia, 322 ; foundries, 178; pates, the, 394; ore i.i Zarafs^an valley, 286, 289 Irrigation, unsuccessful efforts of Rus- sians at, 103; of the district of Bukhara, 287 ; canal, failure of, a< Tashkent, 103; at Karshi, ii. 77; re- gulation of, 289 ; wells. 289 ; of the Zarafshan valley, 286, 289 Irtysh, the, 322, 409, 410; ii. 155, 398, 401, 404 Isaieff glass works, 317 Isbyjab, 75 Iset Kutebarof, 388 ; ii. 417 Isfara, 339, 35* Isfi n lyar surrenders, ii. 299 INDEX. 439 ISF Isfidjab, the modern Tchimkent, 393 Ishan Hodja, attempted abduction of his daughter, 99. 100 Ishan Ish Mohammed Kill, ii. 254 Ishan Sthib Hodja, visit to the Mosque of, 158, 159 Ishkar, 188 Ishrat Khana, 256 Iskatchi, the, ii. 28 Iskender Khan, 231, 232, 241, 261, 380, 381; ii. 73, 304, 315, 316 Iskender Kul expedition, 281-283; ii. 307 Iskender, lake, 275, 276, 277, 282 Iskender, rulrr of Kitab, ii. 73 ; his execution, 95, 97 Iskvlik taken by storm, ii. 299 Islam, 38, 154-158, 366, 369 Islam, religious orders of, 158 Islamism v. Christianity, 171, 172 Ismail, 379; ii, 394 Ismail Sefevi, 378 Ispahan, 72 Ispirak, 182; ii. 290 Ispissar, 318 : ii. 2 Issa Aulie. 358 ; ii. 289, 291 ; pardoned, ii. 293 ; sent to Siberia, ii. 293 Issaief, 188 Issyk Kul, lake, 30, 50, 54, 55, 129, 148, 392, 410; ii. 105, 205 ; feeders of, ii. 132; fish in, ii. 131 ; former extent of, 54; legends connected wih, ii. 129; objects in, ii. 130; present connection with, and former discharge into the Tehu, 54 ; scenery at, ii. 128; skulls at, ii. 128; -warm springs in, ii. 131 Istakhari, the, ii. 32 Istar, the goddess, 331 Istemes, 22 Italians in Bukhara, ii. 90 Italians purchase silkworm's eggs, 200 Itch-kiri, 119 It-Kitchu, 404 ; ii. 122 Ivan III. Vasilievitch, 377, 380 Ivan Burnashof, ii. 418 Ivan Kalita, grand prince, origin of name of, 153 Ivan the Terrible, ii. 394. 396 Ivano*', Colonel, 375, 376, 377, 384; ii. 370, 371, 372, 373 Iymil, 402 Izium, 297 Izyurian ruler, the, ii 395 Izzet Ullah, 383, 385 TADE, ii. 193 ; trade in, ii. 148 t) Jadi, 30, 32, 93 Jady, 111 JOB Jafar^ai, the tribe, ii. 381, 384 Jagafar Iman, 192 Jagag, 402 ; the lake, 402 Jagatai, 337, 405 ; ii. 165 ; the men of, 109 ; language of the Uzbeks, 109 Jagataide Mahmud Khan, 378 Jagataides, the, 365, 372, 373, 375 Jahandar Shah, ii. 316 Jaihun (Oxus) river, 407 ; the, 364 Jalan Uta, 274 ; the defile of, 232 Jam.m Darya, 52, 55, 56, 68 Jambai, 232 Jam Darya. 68 Jamkend. 68 Jamtchii Bii. 339 Jan 1 ak-kh (Tchangbalik), 406 Janckint, 400, 401 Jan Hodja, Kighiz hero, 32 Jani Bek, 30, 379, 380 ; ii. 129 Janide, 381 Jauy Darya, 52 ; tradition as to arti- ficial formation of, 52, 55 Japtn, 196; ii. 415 ; relations -with, ii. 409 Japanese, ii. 403, 409 ; maps, ii. 152 Japhet, 376 Jar-Kent. ii. 158 Jarkin, 348 Jarkvn, 359 Jauza, 329, 330 Jaxartes, 50 Jend, 68, 371 ; ruins of. 62 Jenkinson, Anthony, 50 Jenushka, 290 Jesuits, ii. 400, 403 Jewellers in Tashkent, 176 Je-wish women, veiling of, 124 Jews, 48, 49; tneir girdles, 123; at Samarcand, 259 ; at Shaar, ii. 67, 70 Jews' harps, 132 Jezeri, 374 Jidda, 268 Jigits, ii. 253, 280 Jihangyr Hodja, 342 Jihun, 50 Jil, 333 Jin, ii. 133 Jintchi, 111 Jitte-tepe (the seven mounds), ii. 121, 122 Jizak'i, 68, 88, 147-149, 226, 229, 23G, 241, 341, 342, 351-353; ii. 335, 337, ii. 367. 423 ; attack of the fortress at, by General Tchernaief, 229 ; cap- ture of, 229, 230 ; climate of, 327 ; commandant of, 308 ; fortress at, 229 ; storming of by General Kry- zhanofsky, 229, 230*; unhealthinef.3 of, 230 Job, legend of, 191, 193 440 INDEX. JOU Jougeri, 374 Journal Asiatiqne, 408 Journal de St. Petersburg, 358 Journal of the Asiatij Society of Bengal, 338 Journal of the Ministry of Crown Domains, ii. 210 Journal of the Ministry of Public Ins- truction, 360 Journal of the Ministry of Ways of Communication, ii. 210 Ju, ii. 196 Judge at Hodjent, murder of, 313 Judges, ii. 237 Judicial tribunals, ii. 406 Jagara, 291 Jugglers, ii. 70 Jujubes, ii. 19'-} Julek, 56, 58, 66, 67, 79, 91 Jumma Friday, 156, 332 Jumma mosque, 173 ; ii. 194 Jungar, ii. 166 Jungaria, 369, 375, 409; ii. 399, 400; Koan of, 31, 112; colonisation of, ii. 168-174; history of. 146-188; nationalities of, ii. 164-174 Jungarian massacre of Chinese, ii. 168 Jungarian Mongols, ii. 398 Junjun, ii. 126 Jura Bek, ii. 277, 286, 305 ; at Shaar, ii. 67, 73, 74, 85, 138, 167, 241 ; attack on Samarkand, 245, 246 ; cha- racter of, 86 ; expulsion of, ii. 307 ; his history, 85 ; negotiations with Kaufmann, 244 Justice, 366 Justice, administration of, among Kirghiz, ii. 205 Justinian, emperor, the, 350 Juran Aryk Pass, ii. 134 Juveini, 372 KABAKLI, ii. 377 Kabul, 97, 410 Kabulistan, ii. 257 Kadyr Khan, 365, 370 Kae-tch' ang, 394 Kaffir (unbeliever), 73 Kaffirs, 111, 124 Kaidu Khan, 386 Kaikand, 406 Kainar, ii. 63 Kairosaly. ii. 72 Kaisak. 30, 377 Kaitchi, ii. 318 Kakan, ii. 85 Kalai Afrosiab, or original site of Samarkand, 236 EAR Kalama, 189 Kalentar Bek, 85, 158, 257, 260 Kalian Musha, ii. 141 Kalignium. 66 Kalim, 143, 144 Kalmuk religion, the, 172; ruler, the, 395 Kalmuks, the, 34. 35, 369; ii. 136, 146 154, 166, 167, 171. 172, 197, 199, 319, 389, 390, 399, 402; defeat Dungans, ii. 181 ; embassy to, ii. 171; history of, 166, 167; mission from China (Hyacinth's), 171 ; reli- gion of, 172; residence of, 172; return to Jungaria, 171; settle on the Volga, ii. 167 Kalym, 43 Kama river, the. ii. 155, 396 Kamarya, the, 329 Kamelan gate of Tashkent, the, 114, 116 Kamotz, 406 Kana-khnneh, ii. 91 Kanavat, ii. 76 Kandabam, ii. 3. 4, 290 ; its mosques, ii. 4 Kandahar, 260, 262 Kand-su-Kent, 75 Kangli, 391, 400, 402 Kansi, the emperor, ii. 399 Kansu (sug;ir water), 97, 369 Kaplan Bek, horsebreeding establish- ment at, 102 Karabair, 129 Karabak, ii. 76 Karabugaz, ii. 379 Karabugut, 55 Kara Bulak, ii. 126 Karabutak, fort of, 62 ; garrison of, 24, 25; hospitality of commandant of, 24 ; sterility of situation of, 21 Kara-Darya, the, 286, 287, 28S ; ii. 299 Kara Hulagu, 405 Karajar Noyau, 373 Karajengeldi, ii. 375 Karaknffir. ii. 136 Karakalpaks, the. 107, 353; ii. 369, 37^, 4i)9 ; Biis of, ii. 373 Karak-ata, ii. 338 Karakedans. ii. 122 Karakhan, ii. 121 Karakhatai, the, 365, 371, 398, 404, 406 Karakhatayans, the, 371 Karakidans, the, 371 ; ii. 164 Kara Kirghiz, the, 30, 350. 354, 4 9 ; ii. 57, 135-141; legends of, ii. 138; origin of race of, ii. 136 Karakitai, ii. 122 Karakitans, 372 INDEX. 441 EAR Karakorum, 152, 223, 372, 400, 402, 408 Kara-Kulja, the river, 51, 353 Karakul, Lake, 275, 379, 286, 287 ; ii. 84, 110 Karakum Desert, the, 26, 28, 29, 30, 401, 409 Karaktchi (Fort No. 21), 52 Karakurt, the, ii. 123 Karamazar, 322 Karamzin, 401 Karasai, gate of, 114 Karasai river, 51 Karashar, ii. 200, 319 Karashar Torgots, the, ii. 200 Karasu, attack on, 86 Karasu, the, ii. 292, 385 Karataef, ii. 90, 100, 111 Karatal river, 55 ; ii. 150, 154 Karatau mountains, 51, 67, 75 Karatchkum, village of, ii. 2, 287 Karatchuka tribe, the, ii. 381 Karategin, 280, 343, 348 ; ii. 45, 46, 276, 277 Karateginese at Khokand, ii. 45 Karatepe, ii. 51, 62, 305, 381 ; fight at, 43 Karaul, ii. 81 Karaul Begi, ii. 7 Kara Uziak river, 52 ; attempt to clean channel of, bb, 56 ; exploration of, 56 Kara Yasi, 348 Karazin, the artist, ii. 373 ; his novel on Tashkent life, 83 Karga, ii. 30 Kari, 163, 203 Karkaralinsk, ii. 153 Karlagatcb, ii. 30 Karn, the, 333 Karnan mountains, 188 Karoi Saroi, ii. 130 Kars, 405 Karsan, ii. 80 Karshi, 97, 107, 110 ; ii. 64, 76, 77, 305, 306, 308, 334 ; desert of, ii. 81 ; trade of, ii. 76-80 ; tobacco, 294 Kasaba, 173 Kasem-Beg Mirza, 38 Kash, the river, ii. 152; seaches for treasure in, ii. 176 Kashan, 248 Kashgar, 51, 67, 88, 95, 99, 100, 105, 339, 342, 350, 353, 354, 358, 365, 366, 369, 375, 391, 392, 410; ii. 45, 46, 200, 266, 278, 306, 316, 387; preparations for expedition against, ii. 280 ; trade derived from, 217, 220 ; village of, ii. 43 Kashgaria, 343 KAZ Kashgarian envoy, a, 1 00, • ii. 155 Kasbgarians massacred by Chinese, 343 Kashka Darya, the river, ii. 64, 275, 283 Kasim Ibn Abbas, 247 Kastakoz, ii. 1, 2 Kastek pass, the, 397; ii. 126, 142 Katta Bek, 279, 280 Kattakurgan, 148, 149; ii. 117, 118; Arabs at, 1C9, 110 Katta-sai, ii. 62 Katta Tiura, the, ii. 30, 306, 417 Kaufmann, General, 49, 65, 81, 162, 358, 389 ; ii. 100, 104, 184, 263, 274, 277, 278, 282, 286, 289, 290, 294, 297, 300, 302, 305, 306, 308, 312, 313, 314, 315, 317, 318, 320, 321, 322, 324, 325, 327, 333, 334, 335, 336, 338, 339, 340, 342, 343, 344, 347, 348, 349, 350, 351, 352, 353, 354, 355, 356, 357, 358, 359, 363, 368, 380, 387, 416, 419, 420, 421, 422 ; address to, ii. 369 ; attacks on, ii. 333 ; balls of, 82 ; Cossack guard of, 81; court of, 81; difficulty with Central Asiatic Society, 84 ; execution of a Mullah, 251 ; frees slaves, ii. 104, 109 : plan of attack on Khiva, ii. 335 ; reasons for Khivan campaign, ii. 334 ; reception after Khivan campaign, ii. 367; reward for Khivan campaign, ii. 367 ; triumphal receptions of, 82 Kaulbars, Baron, ii. 174, 321; mission, to Kuhlja, ii. 186 Kaus, 329 Kavap, 125 Kavardak, 125 Kayalik, 403, 405 Kazak, 8, 30, 104, 377 Kazak Tsar, the, 395 Kazala, 15, 18, 21, 26, 44, 47, 48. 49, 50, 64, 68; ii. 205, 337, 338, 339, 343, 372, 417; acquaintances at, 47; arrival at, 29 ; bazaar at 46 ; com- mercial importance of, 45 ; reception at, 46 ; departure from, 60 ; Swiss travellers at, 48 ; talk of Khivan campaign at, 47 Kazalinsk, 44 Kazan, ii. 393, 396, 415 Kazi Kalian 166, 169; of Bukhara, the, 344 Kazikurt-ata, ii. 120 Kazi Murad, ii. 371, 372 Kazis, 98, 166, 168, 169, 171 ; ii. 237; corruption at elections of, 169; elec- tion of, 169; powers of the, 169; qualification for office, 169 Kazna, oriein of word, 153 Kaznatchi, 153 442 INDEX. KAZ Kazuin, 407 Kazvini, 381 Kebin river, ii. 126, 127 Kemangeh, 131 Kenchak, 402 Kendyr Tau, defiles of, 341 ; ii. 284 Keneghez, 107 Kenisar, 32; ii. 231 Kenkhan, the court of, 402 Kenninghez, 87, 99 Kent, 75 Kentchak, 404 Keou-koue, 409 Kerait Van Khan, 372 Kerki, ii. 313 Kerman, 372 Kermineh, ii, 115, 116, 304, 305, 306; Bek of, ii. 116; bazaar at, ii. 115; Divan Begi of, ii. 116; hostility of natives at, 115 Kesh, 255, 379, 394; Baber's descrip- tion of, ii. 71 Keshmish, 297 Ketmen-tepe, ii. 56 Khae, 340 Khagas, ii. 136 Khalagar, 108 Khalai Afrosiab, 236 Khalata, 21 ; ii. 355, 339, 340, 342, 347, 367, 370; Russian fort at, ii. 309 Khali ava, 198 Khalif Ali, 386 Khalif of Bagdad, 398 Khalifs, 154, 155, 368 Khalil, 374, 375 Khamba Lama, the, ii. 172 Khambi, the, ii. 172 Khamil, 391 Khan of Khiva, the, ii. 338, 374, 380, 383 Khan ab canal, the, ii. 375 Khanate of Khokand, 354 Khanavat, ii. 76 Khanayat Shah, 91, 92, 163, 352; ii. 144 Khan Hodja, 339 Khanikof, Mr. N. V., 108, 240, 339, 361, 363, 386; ii. 89, 414 Khan Serai at Khokand, ii. 16 Khan Shaniaz, ii. 329 Khan Tengri mountain, 391 ; ii. 132, 133 Khan Zada, ii. 39, 40 Khan Zada Arash Kul, the, 264 Khan Zada Nas'r eddin, the, 356 Khans, the, embassies to, ii. 397, 399 Khara-Khula, ii. 166 Kharashar, 391 Kharezm, 340, 364, 367 Kharezm Gulf, ii. 423 Kharezm Shahs, 365, 371 Kharezmians, 365 Kharlukh Karakhanides, 371 Kharlukh sovereigns, 371 Kharlukhs, 370 Khartchukh mountains, 406, 407 Khatai, the, 371, 407 Khatyrtchi, 288 ; ii. 305 Khelat, ii. 266 Khendakhuir, 406 Khian-lung, the Emperor, 338 Khiva, 31, 33, 68, 81, 107, 108, 190, 196, 360, 361, 382, 401; ii. 265, 279, 305, 306, 396, 400, 401 ; attack on walls of, ii. 349 ; baggage abandoned on march to, ii. 339, 341 ; bombard- ment of, 349, 350 ; capture of, ii. 35 ; detachments for attacking, ii. 337 ; difficulties of reaching, ii. 335 ; em- peror consents to expedition against, n. 336 ; General Perofsky's expedi- tion against, ii. 330; indemnity to be paid by, ii. 364 ; intense heat on march to, ii. 344, 345 ; production of silk at, 193; route for trade with, 220; Russian embassies to, ii. 330; Russian loss at, ii. 351 ; Russian prisoners from, 49, 50 ; slave trade at, ii. 353 ; stormed, ii. 350 ; sub- mits, ii. 350; surveys of ii. 354; t ade of, 215; treaty with, ii. 331, 363 Khiva, Khan of, 50; ii. 144; aska India for help, ii. 424 ; visits Colonel Ivanof, ii. 367 Khivan campaign, the camels for, ii. 337, 341, 369 ; change of route of, ii. 339; cost of, ii. 368; intrigues con- nected with, ii. 354, 355, 422 ; reasons for, ii. 333; talk of, 15, 47 Khivan embassies to Fort Alexandrof- sky and Orenburg, ii. 332 Khivan envoys, ii. 423 Khivan memorial, the, ii. 368 Khivan oasis, the, ii. 386 Khivan Yomuds. ii. 383 Khivans abuse Russian mercy, ii. 352, 353 Khivans. false accusations of, ii. 353 Khiva oder Kharezm, 364 Khludof, 207 Khodrie, 138 Khodzidjan, 338 Khoja Saleh, ii. 267 Khokand, 97, 85, 92, 93, 94, 95, 105, 130, 132, 136, 337, 338, 361, 386, 387, 388; ii. 1-60, 266, 277, 280, 297, 409 ; agriculture of, ii. 56 ; area of, ii. 54: bazaars at, ii. 14, 15} INDEX. 443 KHO birdseye view of, ii. 12 ; character of, ii. 54, 55 ; emperor orders annex- ation of, ii. 300; form of, ii. 10; from 1841 to 1864, 338; garrison of, ii. 15; gate of Tashkent, at, 114; government of, ii. 57 ; Khan of, 71, 72 ; Khanate of. ii. 54 ; minerals of, ii. 56 ; mosques at, ii. 11 ; population of, ii. 11, 12, 56; preseut unsettled state of, ii. 301 ; production of silk at, 193 ; relations of Russia with, ii. 274-302; Eussian advance to, ii. 289 ; taxes of, ii. 57-60 ; topographi- cal situation of, ii. 12 ; trade of, 215, 219 Khokandian spy in Tashkent, a, 97 Khokandians, the, 338, 339 ; defeated in Kurama. ii. 286 ; occupy the village of Ablvk, ii. 284 Khokhlof, Ivan, 240 ; ii. 273, 394 Kho-no-kho-tsin (Bator Kun taitsi), ii. 166, 167 Khorasan, 361, 407, 409 ; ii. 267 Khorgos, ii. 158, 178 ; riot at, ii. 178 Khorkhut, 62, 63 Khoroshkin, Colonel, ii. 174, 288 Khosh-Kupyr, ii. 290 Khotar, 190, 198 Khudaidad, 374, 375 Khudayar JBek of Marghilan, 339, 340, 341, 348 Khudayar Khan, 337, 341, 345, 347, 348, 349, 350, 351, 352. 353, 357, 358, 359, 387, 388; ii. 24, 25, 35 246, 274, 277, 278, 279, 280, 281, 282, 284, 286, 320 ; at Orenburg, ii. 60 ; excites discontent, ii. 278 ; in- Tested with order of St. Stanislas, ii. 276 ; leaves Khokand, ii. 282 ; quar- rels with Jura Bek, 85 ; treasure of ii. 285 Khudayar (son of Shir Ali), 348 Khudof, ii. 317 Khukhu-nor, ii. 398 Khulm, ii. 267 Khurram Serai, 338 Khutapai, 406 Khutbe, 341, 385 Khuzakh, 406 Khuzar, 275, 293 ; ii. 77 Khvalym Sea, 53 Kiafsen, 304 Kiakhta, 207; ii. 193, 408 Kiang-hi, Emperor of China, ii. 171 Kibitka, 35 Kibitka tax, ii. 206, 241 Ebleh, 156 Kie-choang-na, 392 Kief, 400 Kien-long, ii. 402 KIT Kien-lun, Emperor of China, ii. 168 Kigin, 390 Ki-li-ki-tsi, 399; ii. 136 Kinderli, ii. 346, 367, 379 Kingdom of Dogs, 409 Kingdom of Kasimof, ii. 392 King Hethum, 401, 405-409 ; ii. 138 Kin-shan, the, 394 Kiptchak, 107 ; ii. 371 Kiptchaks, the, 345, 350, 354, 355, 356, 357, 387; ii. 26, 27, 34, 57, 278, 279 ; ask Russians to dethrone Khu- dayar, ii. 279; Bek of, ii. 372; butchery of, ii. 60 Kirakoz, 408 Kiranda, 150 Kirei, the, 372 Kirghiz, the, 6, 7, 8, 19, 21, 23, 28, 29, 30, 37, 68, 70, 75, 107, 354, 355, 356, 357, 377, 407 ; ii. 135, 141, 197, 278, 279, 305, 337, 342, 396, 398, 409, 413; agriculture of, 37; Bukaref horde of, 134; calender, 333-335; cemetery of, 62 ; changing quarters, 29 ; contractors, 18, 19; courts, 166, 167; difficulties with, ii. 186; dis- orders among, 32, 33, 34 ; division of races of, ii. 136 ; dress and occupa- tion, 35, 36 ; ii. 137 ; elective govern- ment of, 32 ; expedition against, ii. 40 ; expeditions of, 36 ; nocks and herds, 34 ; food and drink of, 37 ; forays against, 341 ; great horde of, 30, 31, 34; ii. 152, 154; history under Russian protection, 31, 32 inner horde of, 34 ; insurrection of, ii. 358 ; join the Dungans, ii. 180 Kaisak, 30, 106 ; Khans, ii. 405 kibitkas, 35 ; language and origin 30 ; lesser horde of, 30, 31, 33, 34 manners and customs of, ii. 137 middle horde of, 30, 31, 34; mis sionary enterprise among, 38 ; mul lahs, 33; musical instruments, 132 ravage Kuldja, ii. 183 ; rebellion of, ii. 46, 53, 54; religion, ii. 137 scholars, ii. 406 ; schools in Perofsky and Kazala, ii. 235 ; steppes, 366 Sultans regent of, 32, 33 ; taxes, 345 taxes on, ii. 378 ; their different names, 30 ; trade with, ii. 409; type of race, 34, 35 ; visit to a kibitka of, 61 ; wealth of, 34 ; women, 40 Kir-it (grey dog), 372 Kirk, 107 Kitab, 85 ; ii. 64, 276, 277 ; citadel o£ ii. 65 Kitai, 107 Kitan, 399 444 INDEX. KIT Kitehik-Mohammed, 378 Kitehkine, ii. 374 Kitchkine-ata, ii. 373 Ki-tse-li ba-sze, 398 Klaproth, 338, 362, 408, 409; ii. 136, 191 Kliutcharef, 338, 349, 361 Kly river, ii. 337 Kljtch Niaz Bai, ii. 348 Knives, manufacture of, 177 Knuckle-bones, 128 Kohik, 239 Kohistan, history of, 279, 280 ; political division of, 278 ; Russian occupation of, 281 Koibyn, ii. 157 Koisi, ii. 130 Kok-bura, game of, 255, 268, 269 Kokine-sai, 319 Kok-moinak, ii. 127 Kokssarai, 251, 255 Koksu river, ii. 150, 274 Kok-tash, the, 254, 255, 256 Koktcha river, ii. 267 Koktchi, 103 Kolesnikof, Mr., 218; ii. 17, 321 Kolpakofsky, General, 81 ; ii. 5, 9, 130, 143, 144, 183, 184, 186, 187, 279, 300, 318 ; in Kuldja campaign, 186, 187, 188 ; life and character of, ii. 149, 150 Komarof, Lieut.-Col., ii. 376 Kong-yu, 393 Konigsgratz, ii. 368 Kon-kai river, 321 Konos-bai, ii. 62 Konstantin, the steamer, 57 Konstantinofskaya, ii. 142 Kontche, ii. 137 Kopal, 405 ; ii. 153, 205, 325; climate of, 327 Kopylof, Mr., ii. 142 Koran, the, 70, 71, 154, 163, 164; of Othman, 256 Koroi-Saroi, ii. 130 ; origin of, 153-155 K'o-san, 395 Kos-aral, 57 Kosaref, Col., 46 Kosh, 290 Kosh-kupyo, ii. 343 Kosh Medresse Abdullah Khan, ii. 93 Koshpul, the, 305 Kostakoz, 318 Kotchkur, ii. 134 Kotlyarefsky, ii. 401 Kou-ken-bag, ii. 131 Kraiefsky, Col., ii. 133 Krasnovodsk, ii. 335, 345, 353, 354, 377, 378, 379, 380, 384, 385, 386, 421, 423 KUR Krasny Yar, 2 Kremlin, 153 Krm;in, 407 Kryzhanofsky, General, 24, 46; ii. 208, 204, 263, 302, 335, 336; plan of attuck on Khiva, ii. 336 Kshtut. 87, 276, 277, 280, 282 Kshtut Darya, 275, 278 Ktai, ii. 137 Kua-kishlak, ii. 49 Kuakky, ii. 134 Kua-tehou, 391 Kudjan, 395 Kufiristan, ii. 257 Kiihlewein, 361 Kuhn, Mr., ii. 294, 302 Kuiluk, 102, 325; ii. 286 Kukan, 338 Kukertli, 110; ii. 311 Kukhnar, 127 ; ii. 22 Kukoltash, Medresse of, ii. 92 Kul, ii. 191 Kulah, 343; ii. 316 Kuldja, 409; ii. 147, 148, 152, 153, 192, 396, 397, 415, 433 ; absence of Chinese architecture in, ii. 193 ; campaign against, ii. 186-188; cli- mate of, ii. 327 ; field for Russian labour, ii. 198; fiual rupture with, ii. 422; history of, ii. 164-188, 326, 334; insurrection at, 178-188; na- tionalities of, ii. 164-174; occupied by Russians, ii. 319 ; palace in citadel at, ii. 193 ; Russian relations with, ii. 184-186 Kuli Kalan, fight at, 283 Kul-kalian, 277 Kuiluk, 406 Kul Yomuds, ii. 375, 376 Kumakur, 409 Kumalik, ii. 31 Kumys, 37, 126 Kundash, 147 Kunduz, ii. 267 Kungei, ii. 131 Kungis river, ii. 152, 170, 200 Kungrad, 47, 48, 107; ii. 331, 336, 346, 348, 361 Kungut, 181 Kunik, 401 Kunya Urgentoh, ii. 354, 355, 367, 375 Kurama, 102; ii. 205, 286; live stock in, 326 Kurban Bairam, festival of, ii. 303 Kurdiuks, the, 326 Kurds, ii. 382 Kuren, ii. 192 Kuren Dag, the, ii. 382 Kurgash, ii. 158 Kurgatz, the, 393, 404 ; ii. 148 INDEX. 445 KUE Kurkan, 373 Kur-kara-usu, ii. 191 Kurmenta river, 51 Kurtka, Khokandian fort of, ii. 317 Kush Begi, Doulet, the, 384 ; Leshker, the, 344 ; of Bukhara, the, ii. 91 Kushelef, 340 Kutb Eddin Mohammed, 372 Kutchambai, 5 Kutche, 391 ; ii. 133, 178, 180, 319 Kutchkunji, Sultan, 379, 380 Kutebar, 388 Kutebarof, 32 Kuteibi-ibn-Muslim, 369 Kutemaldy, ii. 127, 128 Kutf-i-Tcherdani, 254 Kutuktchin, 406 Kuvan river, the, ii. 409, 417 Kuvansh Jar, the, ii. 370, 374 Kuyuk Khan, 400, 408 Kuyuk Mazor, ii. 114 Kuzebai, 3 Kuznetzof, ii. 142, 145, 147, 153 Kyrk-ming, ii. 288 Kyzyl-arvat, ii. 382 Kyzyl Bash, Khan of, ii. 395 Kyzyl Bash, Lake, 402, 405, 410 Kyzyl Kum, 68, 69 ; ii. 339, 367 ; ex- plored, ii. 332 Kyzyl-Takyr, ii. 357, 367, 375 LABORATORY at Tashkent, 80 Labours of the Oriental section of the Imperial Archaeological Society, 337 Ladak, 223 Lake Alakul, ii. 155, 191 Lake Balkash, ii. 152-155 Like Dal Nor, ii. 165 LakeEbi Nor, ii. 190, 191 Lake Kyzyl Bash, 402, 405, 410 Lake of Heaven, 395; ii. 191 Lake of the Spotted Bull, 401 Lake Sairam Nor, ii. 154, 188, 192 Lamas, ii. 201 Lamps, 127 Landan Canal, the, ii. 371 Land tenure in Central Asia, 297-303 Land, prices of, 297 ; settlement, 298, 300-303 ; settlement, 298, 300-303 Lands of the Khan, 299 Larkspur, yellow, 182, 309 La-tchu-yan, ii. 160 Lathes, 18S Latrodectes lugubris, ii. 123 Laudan, 222 Lavalet, M., 223 Law Courts, 166, 167 Lead ore, 321, 322 MAC Leather, 183 Leeches, tax on, ii. 58 Leeks, ii. 196 Lelimann, 36, 240; ii. 115, 414 Lemfinc, 401 Lenormant, Mr. P., 248, 249, 332 Leprosy, 147 Lepsa river, ii. 150, 154 Lerch, Mr., 68, 75, 104, 312, 361, 364, 384, 397, 400, 401 ; ii. 121, 122, 130 Lesseps, M. de, 222, 223, 224 Lesser Horde of Kirghiz, the, 388, 401 ; ii. 407 Lesur, ii. 258 Leuchtenberg, Gromof saves Duke of, ii. 362, 363 Liabehaus Divan Begi at Bukhara, the, ii. 92 Liang-tehou, 391 Library of Timur, 240 ; ii. 97 Library at Tashkent, ii. 97 Lice, 149 Life, Mussulman, 118-172 Lilio, Calender of, 332 Ling tchau, 391 Lin-yu, 398 Liquors, 126, 127 Lisofsky, 376 Lisoftchiki, 376 List of coins of Khokand, 337 Li-tchuan, ii. 178 ' Literarisches Centralblatt,' 389 Litta, Count, ii. 90 Little Armenia, 408 Liuli, 111 ; ii. 41 Lizards, giant, 323 Loftus, Lord Augustus, ii. 267 Lomakin, Colonel (General), ii. 336, 346, 347, 350, 357, 377, 378, 379, 380, 381, 384, 385 Losigun, ii. 169, 172 Lotteries at Tashkent, 80 Love chase, 42, 43 Lower Volga, the, ii. 398 Lubb-ul-tevarikh, 381 Lucerne, 290 Lui Yu, 188 Lung-gu, the river, 398 Lun-t'ai-hien, 394 Lutherans, 2, 3 Lu-tsun-han, ii, 178, 187 Lycosa-singoriensis, ii. 123 Tl/TA-A, 399 MacGahan, Mr. J. A., 1, 15, 21, 24, 64, 65, 66, 308, 309 ; ii. 332, 359, 363 ; his ride across the Steppe, 65, 66; ii. 120 446 INDEX. MAD Madali Khan, 342, 343, 344, 345, 347, 355, 359; ii. 13, 137 Madamin Bek, 272, 344, 359; ii. 281 Madder, 294 JVIadrin (future successor of Buddha), 407 Magasin Asiatiqne, 338 Magian, 87, 276, 279, 280, 283 Magpie, ii. 30 Mahmud, 371 Mahmud Khan, 341, 342, 380 Mahmud, Prince of the Tchoros, ii. 165 Mahmud Shah, ii. 316; campaign of, ii. 382 Mahmud Sultan, ii. 44 Mahmud Tiura sent to Siberia, ii. 293 Mahmud Yakub Khan, Kashgarian Envoy, 100 Mahsum Hodja, 337, 339, 341 ; report of, 338 Mai-Bulak, 323 Maidan Yuldash, 341 Maimatchen, ii. 193 Maimena, ii. 267 Maines, village communities, 303 Maize, 291 Mak-bul, ii. 121 Makhram, ii. 54, 286, 290; battle of, ii. 288, 289; Bek of, 319; fortress of, ii. 2, 3, 287 ; submission of in- habitants of, ii. 289 Makhram Khudai Nazar, ii. 418 Makhtab, primary school, 64, 65, 163 Malar Lake, ii. 415 Malcolm, 384, 386 ; ' History of Persia,' 385 Malik, 156 ; ii. 115; ruins of castle at, ii. 115; sect, 156; station at, 227; wells at, 227, 228 Malik Shah's Calendar, 332 Malla Bek, 348, 350, 351, 388 Malla Khan, 136, 163, 352, 356, 359; ii. 73 ; murder of, 92 Maltchet Akhun, ii. 183 Mamun, the Jew, 259 Management of municipal and com- munal affairs, ii. 206 Manaps, 368 Manas, ii. 138, 178, 185, 190 Mandarins' buttons, ii. 193 Mangere, 374 Manghit, 384; Biis the, 384 Manghit, the, 106 Mangu, 403 Mangu Khan, 398, 405, 406, 407, 408 ; court of, 404 Mangyshlak, ii. 354. 357, 378, 379; (Fort Alexandrofsky) ii. 336 ; co luran of, 346 ; ii. 351 MED Mangyt, ii. 372 ; skirmish at, ii. 348 Maniakh, 368, 390 Manichsean alphabet, ii. 130 Mantchu Kuldja, ii. 162 Mantchus, ii. 197, 399, 400, 401 Maqrizi, 331 Maracanda, 236 Marali, the, ii. 135 Marco Polo, 138, 139, 238, 372, 391 Mareri, the month, 406 ' Marghilan, 338, 347, 348, 349, 352, 353 ; ii. 49, 50, 281 ; Baber's de- scription of, ii. 49 ; Mir Izet Ullah's description of, ii. 50; Nazarof's de- scription of, ii. 50 Markham, 238, 374, 375 Markozof, Colonel, ii. 334, 336, 344, 345, 383, 423 ; bad management of, ii. 346 ; expedition of, ii. 346, 351, 381 Marriage, 142 ; among Kirghiz, 43 ; ceremonies of, 144 ; limitations of, 145; obligations of, 145; presents, 143; restrictions on, 145; tempo- rary, 145 Mashad, 111; ii. 120, 312, 353, 883 386 Masjid, ii. 381 Masjid Bali and Mosque, ii. 91, 92 Maskarabashes, 137; ii. 66 Massacre of Kiptchaks, 350 Massacre at Kuldja, ii. 187 Masudi, 370 Matcha, 279, 280, 281, 283 Matchlock, the, 128, 129 Mat Murad, ii. 352 Mat Niaz, ii. 369, 375 Matthew, St., bones of, ii. 130 Maverannahr, 105, 337, 340, 363, 364, 365, 366, 367, 368, 369, 370, 371, 372, 373, 378, 379, 380, 381, 383 Mayagur Akhun, ii. 182 Mazam Khan, ii. 183 Mazanderan, 407 Mazang, 111 Measures, 201, 203 Measures for strengthening the union of the Kirghiz steppes with Russia, ii. 411 Mecca, 90, 355 Mediaeval travellers in Central Asia, 390,411 Medicago sativa, 290 Medicines, 149, 150; native, 149, 150 Medresse, Abdullah Khan at Bukhara, ii. 93; Ali, ii. 13; Barakhar, 163; Beklar Bek at Tashkent, 101 ; Bek- lar Bek at Karshi, ii. 79 ; Bibi Khanym, 249, 250 ; Hodja Jelal, ii. 93 ; Irnazar Eltchi, ii. 93 ; Ju'oar, INDEX. 447 MED ii. 93 ; Khan at Khokand, ii. 5, 12, 13 ; Kukol Tash, 163 ; ii. 92 ; Mir, ii. 13; Miri Horab, ii. 92; Kustam Bek at Uratepe, 310, 311 ; Shirdar, 310; Tilla Kari, 252; Ullug Bek, 251 Medynsky, Colonel, 103 Mekasim, 303 Mekhter, difficulties with, ii. 52, 53 ; its meaning, ii. 7 ; of Khokand, the, ii. 5-9 ; ordeal of, ii. 53 ; poisoned, ii. 53 Mekkeme, ii. 236 Melons, 297, 299 ; mode of eating, ii. 29 ■ Memoires du Chevalier d'Eon,' ii. 259 'Memoirs of Mirza Shems,' 338, 343, 367, 385 'Memoirs of the Imperial Russian Geographical Society,' 337, 382, 390 'Memoirs of the Imperial University of New Russia,' 40] Menander, Protector, 390 Menshikof, ii. 259 Menz-linsk, ii. 396 . Merakhor, ii. 7 Merchants, ii. 17, 18; attack on, ii. 276 ; prominent, 97 Merke, 393, 40+; ii. 123 Mertvii Kuituk Bay, the, 391 Merv, ii. 269, 370, 374, 382, 383, 384, 385, 386 ; colonisation of, 109 ; name given former inhabitants of, 106 Meshekli, ii. 374, 311 Meski, 404 Messenger of Europe, 338 Messenger of the Imperial Russian Geographical Society, 339 Mest-devran (Mestorian), ii. 381 Metal- work, 177 Meteorological observations, 326, 328 Metricke land, 298 Metropolitan Crysanth, 361 Mevat land, 298, 299 Mevquefe land, 298 Meyendorf, 361, 385 ; ii. 409 Miana, 407 Miankal, 379; the district of, ii. 117 Michailovsky, Gulf, the, ii. 379 Michell, the Messrs., 387 Middle Horde, the, 388 Mikhail, 57 Military Journal, ii. 288; instruction of troops in Turkistan, ii. 231 Milk-haradji, 299 Milk-ushri, 299 Milky way, 335 Millet, 291, 398 Mills, in Central Asia, 101 ; at Kuldja, ii. 193 MOH Milutin, ii. Ill Minaret, 251 ; in Bukhara, ii. 92 Min-Bulak, ii. 122, 332, 339, 347 Mineral springs, ii. 153, 154 Minerals, ii. 197 ; production of, ii. 56 ; wealth of Central Asia in, 319-323 ; on the Yagnan and Fan Darya, 27S Ming, 106, 279 ; tribe of, 339 Min^'amban, the, of Tchugutchak, ii. 179 Ming-Bashi, ii. 7 Ming-Basbi, 347 ; Hakki Kill, the, 343 Ming Bulak wells, ii. 423 Mingepe, ii. 48 ; engagement at, 292 Ming-uruk, 80, 81 Mining department of Turkistan, ii, 209 Ministers, 262 Mint at Kriokhand, ii. 10 Mir Alim, 358 Mir Haidar, ^79, 280, 287, 385, 386 ; at Sharisabs, ii. 72 Mir Izzet Ullah, 338, 341 ; ii. 42, 44 ; description of Marghilan, ii. 50 Mir Said, 388 Mir Seid Belki Sheikh, 253 Miri Horab, Medresse of, ii. 92 Miriie land, 298 Mirkhond, 370, 373 Mirky, 404 Mirza, ii. 271 Mirza Abdullah Ba^ai, 95, 96 Miiza Abul Talib, 386 Mirza Akhmet, 350, 353 Mirza Bashi, ii. 7 Mirza Hakim, 246, 356; ii. 1, 19, 275, 276, 280, 290, 320 Mirza Iraddin Divan Begi, ii. 77 Mirza Kashbar's story, 95 Mirza Megdi, 383 ; Shadi, ii. 387 Mirza Yusuf, 139 Missionaries, English, 38 Missionary enterprises, refusal to allow at Tashkent, 1 62 Mission from Khokand, ii. 290 Mission of Nazarof in 1814 to Khokand, ii. 410 Missions of Putimtsef to Jungaria, ii, 410 Mistaken policj 7 , ii. 405 Mitchell, John, 38 Mizan, 329, 330 Mogayan Darya, 275, 278 Mogul, 186 Mogul calendar, 333 Mohammed Ali, 71, 337, 342, 386, 387, 388 Mohammed Amir, or Madramin Bek, 344, 357 Mohammed Bii, ii. 99, 109, 110, 111, 112 448 INDEX. MOH Mohammed Farissakh, ii. 303, 333, 418 Mohammed Eahim Subankul Mutevali of the Medresse Hodja Akkrar, 348; ii. 415 Mohammed Shakyr, 187 Mohammed Sheihani, 378 Motammed Sherif, ii. 99 Mohammed Timur, Sultan, 379 Mohammed Yar, 380 Mohammedan legislation, 169 Mohammedanism compared with Chris- tianity. 171; among Kirghiz, 37, 38; strengthened by Russians, 38 Monetary unit, 203 Money in Central Asia, 14, 203 Mongol. 3, 4. 5 ; barbarities, 237 Mongol domination, influence of on Russia, 152, 153 Mongolia, 372, 373, 400, 411 ; ii. 399 Mongols, the, 375, 376.408, 410; ii. 189, 398 ; attack of, 340 Mongols of Baty, the, ii. 398 Months, names of the, 329, 330; Kir- ghiz, 334 ; legends of the, 329, 330 Monument to the wife of Madali Khan, ii. 13 Morals, 124 Morozofs caravan, ii. 323 Mosaics, 70 Moscow. 90, 380, 382 ; ii. 392, 394, 397, 399, 400 Moscow p> riod, ii. 399 Moscow Tsars, the, ii. 396 Mosques, Baliand at Bukhara, ii. 91, 93 ; Dungan at Suidun, ii. 160; Shah Zindeh at SamarcaDd 235, 247, 248; Abdullaktif at Uratepe, 311 Hazret at Turkistan, 70. 71, 72 Hodja Akharar, T*sl>k-nt, 101, 256 worship at the, 156, 157 Mosquitoes, ii. 158 Mountain deer, ii. 135 Mountains in Khokand, ii. 55 Mount Arai, 405 Mount Taurus, 406 Mourning for the dead, 151 Movement for formal ion of new line, ii. 203 Mozaffar, Eddin, 342, 353, 388; ii. 304, 308; appearance of, ii. 83, 84; character of, ii. 84 ; his action at Shah- risabs, 85 ; occupies Khokand, 92, 93 ; his executions, 95 ; interview with, ii. 83, 84 Mozaffar Khan, 355 Mrmn, 407 Mufti, 162, 167 Mugojar mountains, the, 16 22 Mukaneddin Hodja, a visit to, 166 Mula Kari, ii. 379, 380 NAG Mulberry trees, 195; ii. 192; leaves o£ speculation in, 196 ; culture of, 196 Mu! f uzat-i-Timury. 373 Mulhids (the assassins i, 407 Mullah Bek of Makhram, 319 Mubah Hair ullaD, 225; on amusementfl| 127, 128 Mullah Iskak, ii. 295 Mullah Issa Aulie, ii 282 Mullah Maaruf, ii. 282 Mull»h Mir Kamil, 357 Mullah Tarap Hodja, ii. 322 Mullah Turdali, ii. 33 Mullahs in the Steppe, 33, 37 Mull ihs, Tartar, 37 Muller, 340, 360 Mumyn, 358 Munduz, ii. 137 Murad Bek, 347, 348 Murad Bii, 343 Murad Khan, 359 Muravief, 361 ; ii. 409 Muravin, 360 Murdab, ii. 385 Muren, 397 Murgha\ 363, 364 Murtaza Bii, ii. 343, 375, 422, 423 Muruk, ii. 100, 101 Murza, Rabat, remains of caravan of, ii. 283 Muscovite grand princes, thp, ii. 392 Muscovite Tsars, the, ii. 393, 394 Mushet, 187 Music, 131 ; ii. 196 ; in Khokand. ii. 33 Musical instruments, 131, 132; ii. 196; arnonj the Kirghiz, 39, 40 Mussa Mahomet Bii, Governor of Tash- kent, 89 Mussulman Kul. 346, 347, 348, 349, 350. 351, 355, 358, 386 ; ii. 60 ; death of, 3:0 Mussulmans, birth and early life of, 140; Chinese, ii. 159, 160; circum- cision, 141. 142; equality of, at prayers, 157; fanaticism of. 86; house, a, 118; life of in Tashkert, 118: marriage of. 142, 143, 14*; religious rites of, 160, 161; ii. 159, 160 Mutchal, the, 333 Mutton, 366 Muvui Khan, 390 Muyun-kum, ii. 121, 143 Muzart Pass, 392, 410; ii. 134, 319 J oceiip-ition of, ii. 186 Myshenkof, 276 N ADTR Shah, 31. 341, 383 ; ii. 409 Nagasaki, ii. 402, 41 n INDEX. 449 NAG Nagora, 132 Naib, 385 Naimans, the, 106, 396, 400, 405, 406, 410; ii. 353 Nakshhandi, 158 Naman (prayers), 106. 121, 122 Namangan, 323, 339, 334, 356, 358; ii. 281 ; annexation of, ii. 295 ; bom- bardment of, ii. 298 ; revolts at, ii. 298 ; road from Aulieata to, ii. 121 ; tobacco at, 249 NamazDigar, 121, 122 Namazga, mosque of, ii. 85 Nankin, 409 Nanty, 125 Naphtha springs, 323 ; ii. 56 Napoleon's Moscow campaign, ii. 258 Narbuta Bii, 339, 340, 343, 359, 386 Nari-pai Canal, 287, 288 Narshaki, 363, 366, 369, 370 Naryn fort, ii. 321 Naryu river, 51 ; ii. 23, 319 ; bridge over the, ii. 33 Nasim Toga, 357 Nasreddin Bek of Andijan, ii. 39-41, 278 Nasreddin Khan, 281, 282, 283, 289, 292, 300, 359 ; sent to Tashkent, ii. 300 ; submission of, ii. 290 ; treaty of peace with, ii. 293 Nasrullah, 85, 117, 166, 191, 280, 342, 344—351, 388 ; attacks Shahrisabs, ii. 72, 73; at Shahrisabs, ii. 73; conquers Upper Zarafshan, 297, 280; executes Jskender of Shahrisabs, 95, 97 Native courts, ii. 206; dishea, 125; house, description of, 119, 120; opinion about taxes, ii. 243 Natives, influence of, 98,99 Native view of Russian advance, ii. 225 Nau, 312, ii. 285 ; fight at, 318 Naukut, ii. 46, 47, 48 Nauruz, 334 Navigation of Syr Darya, 55-57 Nazar Bek, 359 ; ii. 305, 417 Nazarof, Lieutenant-Colonel, 245, 361 ; ii. 42, 44 ; description of Marghilan, ii. 50 Nectarines, 296 Nefes-guli, ii. 363 Negotiations with England, ii. 266 Negri, 361, 387 Nertchinsk, treaty of, ii. 399, 400 Nestorian monastery, ii. 130 Nestorians, 403 Neutral zone, ii. 266 New boundary line with Bukhara, ii. 419 New Kuldja, ii. 162 TOL. II. G G OLD New lin^the, ii. 172 Niaz, ii. 417 Niasbash, 225 Niazbek, 102, 113; capture of, 113 fort of, 349 Nicholas, the Emperor, ii. 412, 415 Nicknames, 117 Nicolai Station, burning of the, ii. 421 Nicolai steamer, 57 Nijni Novgorod, fair at, 45, 209 Nikiforof, ii. 273 ; at Khiva as Russian envoy, ii. 330 Nikolai, 360 Nikolaiefsk, 3 Nil, 132 Nilka river, ii. 172 Noah's ark, ii. 120 Nogai, 108 Nogai Kurgans, 102 Nogais, the, ii. 394, 398 Nolde, Baron, 313, 316, 317, 318, 319 Nomenclature, Geographical, 274, 275 Nor, ii. 191 Northern courts, the, 366 Norzaisan lake, 394, 410 Nose-rings, 124 Nosovitch, Colonel, ii. 307 Nouruz Aklimed, 380, 381 Novgorod, ii. 415 Novpmlvnsky, Colonel, ii. 343 Novosiltsof, ii. 395 Novotreshtshenof, Colonel, ii. 376 Nukus, 222 ; ii. 370, 371. 373, 374 ; fort of, ii. 372 ; observations at, 328 Numi, ii. 89 Numijket, ii. 89 Nur, 379 Nurali. ii. 407 Nurata, 148; ii. 305, 306, 338 Nurata mountains, 241 Nurekin, the Kirghiz Sultan, 337, 349 Nur Mohammed, 349, 350 Nur Verdi Khan, ii. 383 Nu-tch, i-kien, 393 Nystadt, peace of, ii. 259 OATH, mode of administration of 170 Obrutchef, General, 32, 57 Obrutchef, the steamer, 57 Official rank in Khokand, ii. 7 Officials, Russian, 98 Oils, 181 Oil wells in Khokand, 323 Oirat, the, ii. 165-168, 398 Oirat League, the, ii. 399 Old Jungarians, ii. 199 Old Kirghiz Horde, the, ii. 412 Old Porsu, ii. 372 450 INDEX. OLD Old Tashkent, remains of, 226 Omar Bek, 88, 241 Omar Khalif, 155 Omar Khan, 339-343, 345, 348, 359; ii. 238, 318 Omar Sheikh Mirza, 340 Omar Veli-n-neim, 341 Omyl, 400, 402 Onions, ii. 161 ' Open leaf,' ii. 236 Opium, 127 ; smoking, ii. 147, 148 Oppert, Dr. Augustus, ii. 122 Or, the river, 22, 23, 406, 409 Orders, religious, 158 Orenhurg, 9, 11-16, 24, 29, 33, 34, 45, 46, 47, 57, 58, 60, 75, 358, 409, 411 ; ii. 155, 335, 343, 347, 367, 378; Cossacks, 12, 15, 16; column, the, ii. 347 ; detachment, the, ii. 351, 367 ; English house at, 38 ; English mis- sionaries at, 38 ; foundation of, 9 ; Kirghiz, ii. 412; trade of, 34, 35 Organa, 403, 405 Organum, 403, 405 Oriental expedition of the ambassadorial Frikaz, 389 Oriental Historical MSS., 360 Orlandi, Giovanni, ii. 90 Orlof, General, ii. 265 Ormsk, ii. 155, 184 Ornas, 400, 401 Orsk, 15, 17, 21-24, 386, 409 ; ii. 367 Ortakuya, ii. 345, 363 Oshi, 338 Oshrusene, 312 Osman, 376 ; ii. 304 Osmanlis, 376 Osmanli sultans, ii. 394 Osrushna, 364 OstenSacken, Baron, ii. 133 Ostermann, ii. 259 Otliman Khalif, 154, 155 ; Koran of, 256 Otrar, 68, 361, 380, 395, 407 Oxus, the, 28, 50, 53, 88, 237, 361, 364, 367,371, 391,394; ii. 267; ancient bed of, 53 ; exploration of ancient bed of, 222 ; see Amu Darya, except where mentioned by name PAALLADTI, Father, 238 Pacific Ocean, the, ii. 399 Padshah, 386 Painting eyebrows, 180 Paisa, 201 Paita, ii. 36, 299 Pi'ace of the Khan at Khokand, ii. 10 Palorak, 275, 281 Padu-kia, 391 PET Pamir, ii. 132 Pansat Bashi, ii. 7 Paper manufacturing, ii. 13, i4 Paper mill, ii. 193 Parasites, 149 Paris, ii. 391 Parmanatchi, ii. 7 Paropamisus, the, 363 Parsang. 203 Partchin, 401, 407 Pashadmrda (Afghan sore), 148 Pass of Takhta Karatchi, ii. 62 Passports, ii. 236 ; in Khokand, ii. 35 Pasukhin, Brothers, ii. 273 Patcha Hodja, 280, 281 ; ii. 124, 163 'Paths,' 186 Patkanof, K. P., 408, 409 Paul's expedition, the Emperor, ii. 265 Pauthier, 238, 398 Pavements in Tashkent, 101 Payarof, Lieut.-Colonel, ii. 349 Peaches, 296 Pebrine, 198 Pekin, 338, 339, 342, 343, 399, 410; ii. 402 Penjakent, 274, 277, 278, 284, 286 Pension, of Abdurrahman Khan, 261 ; Baba Bek, 86; Jura Bek, 86; Said Khan, 88 Peppers, ii. 196 Perfumes, 181 Perm, ii. 209, 155 Perofsky, ii. 205, 337, 367, 368, 369, 417 ; prefect of, ii. 369 Perofsky, Fort, 3-1, 52, 53, 51, 55, 57, 58, 60-64, 65, 66, 67, 73 ; climate of, 327. Perofsky, General, 388 ; ii. 330, 335 Perofsky steamer, 57, 58 ; ii. 374 Persia, 360, 372, 383, 384, 402, 407, 409 ; ii. 394, 409 ; boundary with, ii. 385 ; correspondence with, ii. 385 ; connection with India, ii. 385 Persian, government, the, ii 385 ; his- torians, 109; ins -riptions, 231 ; Kurds, the, ii. 383, 384 ; language, 84, 109 ; slaves. 50, 109; ii. 102, 353 Persian Turkomans, raids of, ii. 344 Persians, the, 109, 178, 179, 195, 391; ii. 374, 382 ; freed at Khiva, ii. 380 ; killed by Turkomans, ii. 354; at As- trabad, ii. 381 ; in Turkistan, 109 Personal audiences with the emperor, ii. 262 Pervvshin, 322 Pe-shan, 390 Peshawur, 97 Peter the Great, 322. 377, 382 ; ii. 959, 302, 329. 391, 400, 403 Peter. nann's ' Mittheilungen,' ii. 133 INDEX. 451 PET Petro-AIexandrofsk, Fort, ii. 354, 367, 370-375 Petrof, Mr. P. N., 383 Petrof, Captain, ii. 294 Petrof glacier, 50; ii. 132 Petrofsk, ii. 367 Petrofsky, Mr., ii. 246, 310, 338, 346 ; on Bukharan trade, ii. 95, 96 ; on silk culture, 193 ; trade statistics, 213 Petroftsi, 377 Petroleum, ii. 56 Petropavlovsk, 34 ; ii. 155, 409, 411 Phalange, ii. 124, 125 Pheasants, 66 Phulad, 395 Physicians, 149, 150 Picquet, the Swiss traveller, 48 Pigs, ii. 383 Pilaf, 125 Pilau, 125 'Piling earth,' 170 Pilmen, 125 Ping, 399 Pir Mohammed, 380, 381 Pishan, ii. 133 Pishpek, 351, 400; ii. 9, 126 Pi-shui, or White Water, 393 Piskent, 324, 348 ; ii. 284 Pistachio trees, 327 Pitniak, ii. 374 Plane trees, 270 Piano Carpini, 400-402 Plates of the fountain of the Dragon, 338 Pleiades, 334 Ploughs, ii. 306 Plums, 296 Poisonous fish, 277 Poisonous spiders, ii. 125 Poland, ii. 398 Polar Star, 335 Polefsky-Koziel, Mr., ii. 148 Poles, the, 377 ; ii. 398 Police in Tashkent, 103 Polish Uniates, ii. 144 ' Pologne illustree,' ii. 259 Polovtsi, ii. 57 Poltaratzky, Mr., ii. 134 Poltava, ii. 415 Pomegranates, 399 Pontoons, ii. 342, 347 Pope Innocent IV., 400 Poplars, ii. 383 Popof, A. N., 382 Poppies, 227, 294 ; ii. 79 Population of Central Asia, ii. 202 ; city of Kuldja, ii. 197 ; Khokand, ii. 11, 12 ; Shahrisabs, ii. 71 ; Tashkent, 77, 104: Turkistan, 104 QUI Porcelain, 187; ii. 193 Pospielof, 338, 361 Post roads, 18, 26 Postures in worship, 15, 17 Potanin, 361 Pottery, manufacture of, 187 Powers of General Kaufmann, ii. 209 Prairies of Talas and Kentchak, 404 Pratz, 27 Prayers, 121, 122 Prefect of Kurama, ii. 247 Presents, ii. 271, 272; custom of giving and receiving, ii. 7, 37, 66 ; from Khan of Khokand, ii. 35 Prester John, ii. 122 Pretensions of Khivan khans on Kkir* ghiz, ii. 4 1 3 Primary objects leading to occupation of Central Asia, ii. 218 Prince Bekovitch Tcherkasski, ii. 329 Prince Constantino, 406 Prince Gagarin, ii. 329 Prince Gur, ii. 201 Prince Izyur, ii. 395 Prince Kurd, 406 Proclamation of Khan of Khiva, ii. 417; of religious war, ii. 283; of General Tchernaief, 115, 116, Productiveness of soil, 291 Project of Steppe Commission, ii. 203 ; for forming Steppe region into a mili- tary district, ii. 377 Protsenko, Colonel, ii. 203 Province of Turk'stan, ii. 209 Provisions, high price of, ii. 257 Pskent, 324 ; ii. 316 Ptolemy, 331 Public opinion of General Kaufmann's administration, ii. 251 Pud (Russian weight), 197 Pugatcheff, 9 P'u-la, 395 Pulad (Pulat) Bek, 359, 406; ii. 295, 297, 299, 300 Pulndji, 375 Pulat. ii. 107 Pultawa, Battle of, ii. 259 Punishment. 152 Pupyshef, Mr., ii. 5, 17, 322, 323 ; cara- van to Kashgar, ii. 322 'Purchas, His Pilgrims,' 400 Pustiak, 346 P'u-su-man, the, 396 QUAILS, 130 Quatremere, 375, 404 Quinces, 297 Quintus Curtius, 236 G G 2 452 INDEX. KAB P ABTGA-SULTAN-BEGIM, 71 XL Races in Turkistan, 105, 106 Radish, ii. 196 Badlof, Dr. 334; ii. 136, 169, 174 Bahim Bek, 338. 359 Rahim Bii, 339, 383, 384, 386 ; at Shahrisabs, ii. 72 Bahim Khan, 280 Bahim Ku'li Khan, 386 Bahmet Ulla Bek of Balyktchi, ii- 25. 352 Railway, a Central Asiatic. 222, 223 ; General Beznosikof's plan for. 222 ; M. dp. Lesseps' plan for, 222, 223 Bairn, Fort, 44, 56 ; ii. 413 Ramangan, 157 Bamdil Khan, ii. 315 Barn-fighting- at Bukhara, ii. 88 Bashid Eddin, 404 Basti resti, 374 Bawlinson, Sir Henry, 367 Recitations or lectures, 165 Reconnoissanee of the Attrek, ii. 378 Beconnoissances in the Kyzyl-Kum, ii. 307 ' Kecueil des Voyages et des Memoires publie par la Societe de Geographie,' 400 Befreshments, 121 Begencies, ii, 238 Bei, 407 Beinthal, Captain (Colonel), ii. 181, 318, 324, 3S7, 388 Beis, the, 161, abolition of office of, 161 Beichenbach, Dr., 196 Bejen Khan of Bukhara, 255 Belation between Tarantchi and Chi- nese Dungans, ii. 198 Relations of Russia with Afghanistan, ii. 312-316; Bukhara, ii. 302-312 ; Ka^hgar, ii. 316-326; Khokand, ii. ^74-302 ; Kuldja Tarbagatai, ii. 326, 327 Religion, ii. 235 Religious laxity, 161 ; orders, 138 ; tole- ration, 162 Remusat. 362, 398 Reshta, 147 ; ii. 87 Besidents, diplomatic and commer- cial, ii. 19 Besources of Kuldja, ii. 197 Besult of attempts to introduce bene- fits of high civilisation, ii. 210 Bevas, the Swiss traveller, 48 Rheum, 398 Bice, 398; ii. 196 Biding, careless, 174 Rifles, ii. 6, 11 Bigaya, 304 Bighistan at Bukhara, ii. 89 ; at Samar- kand, 251 RUS Eiot at Hodjent, 316 ; ii. 239 Bitter, 337, 362, 360; ii. 132, 133 'Boad for guests,' ii. 396 Boad mending, ii. 36 Boad pass, 2, 6 Boad to India from Pekin, 410 Roads, Chinese, ii. 189-191 Roads through Tian Shan, ii. 133, 134 Robberies on Bukhan mountains, ii. 420 Robbery by Eman, ii. 249 Rock inscriptions, 231 Rodionof, Captain, 65, 66 Rodzanko, Major, ii. 298 Rokastan, 407 Bomanofsky, General, 95, 117, 316, 389 ; ii. 202, 203, 236, 274, 302t Bossitzky, General, ii. 147 Rouge, 181 Royal Geographical Society, ii. 373 Royalty descended, 405 Rulile, value of. 197 Rubruquis, 402-405, 408 ; ii. 122, 191 Rugs, 184 Ruins, Janikend, 68 ; in Kuldja, ii. 158, 162; of Sauran, 68 Bukin. Colonel, ii. 421 Bussia and Central Asia, trade between, 216 Bussia and England in Central Asia, ii. 388. 416 Bussia and India, ii. 264 Bussia and Khiva, 416-424 Bussia and the Kirghiz, 404, 405, 406, 407 Bussian administration, ii. 211-217 Russian army in Central Asia, ii. 202 Russian Bible Society, 38 Bussian envoys, ii. 273 ; action of, ii. 281 Bussian expedition, against Shahrisabs, ii. 74; in Kyzylkum, 68 Bussian institutions in Central Asia, ii. 236 Bussian mile compared with Mussul- man mile, ii. 245, 246 Bussian orders, style of, ii. 357 Bussian policy, with Kirghiz, 311-334; regarding Central Asia, ii. 391-415 Bussian reception in Central Asia, ii. 233 Bussian slaves, 387; ii. 413; returned from Khiva, ii. 339 Bussian soldiers in Central Asia, 25 ; food of, 265 ; habits of, 266 ; uni- form of, 264 Bussian spies, supposed murder of, 48 Bussian traders, ii. 410 Bussian Tsars, ii. 391, 399 Bussian weakness, ii. 272 INDEX. 453 EUS Russians, Asiatic influence on, 151 153 Russians in Central Asia, what they have done, ii. 234 Russians leave Khokand, the, ii. 294 Russians lose weight in Khokand, the, ii. 279 'Russki Mir,' the, ii. 331 Bussophobist party, the, ii. 269 Rustam Bek, college of, 311 Rusti rasti, 374 Ruy Gonzalez de Clavigo, 374 Ryedkin, Colonel, 25 SABAD or Savat, 364 Sabots, 311 Saese or Scythians in Turkistan, 105 Sacred number, 143 Saddles. 129 Sadsk, ii. 305, 347, 417 Sadyk Bek, 353 Saffron, ii. 196 Saganak, 68 Sahmi, 406 Saholef, Mr., ii. 312 Said, 385 Said Azim, ii. 238, 325 ; at the mosque, 157 ; attempted abduction of a girl, 99 ; influence and intrigues of, 98, 99, 100 Said Bek of Farab, 87 Said Khan, 88 ; claims Bukharan throne, 88 Said Pulad Khan, 358 Sai-lan, 397, 399 Sai-li-mu, ii. 191 St. Anne*s fever, ii. 234 St. George, cross of, ii. 282 St. Louis of France, 402 St. Petersburg, 21, 38; ii. 155, 306, 315, 400, 403 Sairam, 188-192 Sairam Nor, 395, 396, 397, 398, 402, 41)9, 410; ii. 154, 191, 319 Sairam Nor, the, 406 Saksaul, 57, 58, 66 ; ii. 371 ; nature of, 57 Salad, ii. 196 Salar, ii. 173 Sale of Persian slaves in the bazaar at Bukhara, ii. 310 Salaicornia, 181 Salim Bek, of Tchiraktchi, ii. 75 Sallia-Khani Gate, the, ii. 85 Solovief the historian, 152 Salt, ii. 79 ; mines, 323 ; tax, ii. 302 Samanide, Ismail, 370 Samanides, the, 364-365, 368, 370, 371 Samantchi, 351 Samara, 37 ; ii. 155 SCH Samarkand, 85, 87, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109 ; 225-267, 279, 280, 337, 341, 345, 348, 351, 360, 361, 365, 366, 379, 381, 382, 388, 394, 395, 407, 409, 410; ii. 304, 305, 308, 312, 338 ; 396, 417 ; administration of, 266, 267 ; Baber's description of, 239 ; capture of, by Russians, 241, 242, 243, 244, 245, 246, 247 ; a Christian See, 238 ; meaning of name of, 236 ; mosques at, 254 ; Russian so- ciety in, 266 ; steamer, 47, 48, 59, 64 ; subdmits to Tsevan Rabdan, ii. 167; traditions of, 236, 237; view from the citadel of, 233 Sanang Setzen, ii. 126 Sanitary measures, ii. 235 Sanjar, Sultan, 263 San-thsai-thou-hoe'i (affairs of Man), 409 Saracens, 402 Sarai, 377; ii. 391 Sarantchef, Colonel, ii. 349, 350, 357, 358 Saraskh, 407 Saratan, 329, 330, 331 Saratof, 1, 2, 7, 308; ii. 155 Sardoba (cistern), 228 Sarikul (Wood's Lake), ii. 267 Saripul, 407 Sarkan river, ii. 150, 154 Sarkhaba, fight at, ii. 299 Sarnack, 198 Sartakh, 406, 407 Sart, Mr. Lerch's definition of the word, 104 ; its use, 105 ; disease, 148 Sarts, the, 64, 78, 340, 345, 347. 348, 350, 352, 387 ; ii. 279 ; origin of, 104, 105; their singing, 131 Saru, ii. 137 Sarvada, 282, 364 Sary-bagysh, ii. 137, 138 Sary Kamysh, ii. 367, 376, 379, 380, 384, 423 ; General Glukhofsky's ex- pedition to, ii. 354, 355 : Lake, ii. 354 Sary Mazar, Gate of, ii. 290 Sarymsak, 348, 352, 359, 388 Sarymsak Udaitchi, ii. 320 Sary-su, river, 54, 55 Satara Patcha, ii. 324 Sauces, ii. 195 Saumal Kul, 54 ; ii. 132, 142 Saur, 329 Sauran, 68, 69, 183 Savings' funds, 102 Savran (Sauran), 407 Sayaks, ii. 137, 138 Schaufuss, Colonel, ii. 17 Schiltberger, 238, 374, 401 Schmidt, Prof., 27 454 INDEX. SCH Schools, 163-165; for the benefit of Russian soldiers, &c, ii. 199 ; in Samarkand, ii. 235 ; at Yierny, ii. 146 Schott, Captain, 56 Sch'iuvalof, Count, ii. 365 Sebrenk, 401 ; ii. 133 Schwartz, political prisoner at Vierny, ii. 149 Sclavonians, ancestors of, 105 Scobelef, General, ii. 20, 280, 282, 288, 290, 292, 297, 298, 350, 363 Scorodosma fcetidum, 228 Scorpion bite, ii. 26 Scorpions, ii. 37 ; bitten by a, ii. 26 Scotch missionaries, 38 Scull caps, once worn by Russian nobles, 153 Scythians, the, 105, 236, 367 ; ii. 153 Sea of Aral, 411; ii. 363, 366 Seal, used on death-warrants in Buk- hara, 95 Scbuktekinide Mahmud, 370 Sects, Mussulman, 155, 156 SeiVvides, 379 Segnakh (Saganak), 406 Seid Abdul Kasim, visit to the college of, 163 Seid Abdullah Bek of Kermineh, ii. 116 S. d Abdullah Fattah Khan, ii. 306 Seid Akhmed, 378 Seid Amir Ul Umar, ii. 349 Seid Bek of Farab, 280, 283 ; ii. 286 Seid Khan, 241 ; ii. 74, 304 Seid Mahmud Yakub Khan, ii. 325 Seid Mercekhor, ii. 69 ; the house of, ii. 69 Seid Mohammed Rahim, ii. 342, 352 Seid Sultan Khan, of Khokand, 114, 340, 352, 353, 354, 359 Sekeljiket, 366 Seldjuk, 371 Seldjukides, the, 365, 370, 371, 406 Sembat, 408 Sembat, General, 405 Semenof, Mr., ii 127, 133 Semipalatinsk, ii. 155, 184.209,409,414 Semiretch, 409; ii. 150, 151, 184, 205, 327 Semiseant, 236 Semitic races, 105 Sengakh (var Sengau, Ongau), 407 Senkofsky, Prof., 363 ; ii. 166 Sergiopol, ii. 155, 205 Seripul, ii. 267 Serkar, 304; ii. 45, 47, 48 Serpul, 389 Sesame, 181, 182, 183; at Ura-tepe, ii. 242 Setaria, 398 SHE Settlement of the Karategin difficulty ii. 307 * Severtsof, the naturalist, 393 ; ii. 373 Seyid, 385 Shaar, ii. 67-71 ; Akserai at, 225 ; ii. 68 ; bazaar of, ii. 70 ; Bek of, ii. 68, 75 ; citadel of, ii. 67 ; dances at, ii. 69 ; entry into, ii. 67 ; jugglers at, ii. 70 ; mosques at, ii. 71 ; population of. ii. 71 ; water at, ii. 69 Shadi, 347 Shadi Bek of Kshtut, 87, 2S0, 282, 283 Shadi Mirza, ii. 317, 318 Shadi Mulk. 374 Shadiman Hodja, 351, 352 Shadman Malik, bridge of, 233 Shafi, the, 156 Shagreen leather, 183 Sbahmulk, 375 Shah Murad Khan, 190, 351. 352, 359, 385. 388; Bek of Khokand, 92; elevation to the throne, 92, 93 Shah-nameh, the, 105 Shah of Persia, the, ii. 385 Shahrikhana, 343, 358 : submits, ii. 299 ; surrenders, ii. 292 Sbahrisabs, 85, 342, 347, 348 ; ii. 277, 30S, 334 ; Baber's description of, ii. 71 ; delivered to Amir of Bukhara, ii. 307 ; history of, ii. 72-74 ; inhabitants of, ii. 72; meaning of name, ii. 71 ; palace at, ii. 71 ; punishment at, ii. 71 ; Russian conquest of, ii. 74 ; sub- mits, ii. 306 Shahrukh, 339, 353, 359, 375 ; Bek, 337, 339 Shah Zindeh. mosque of, at Samarkand, 148, 235, 247 ; offerings at the shriue of, 249 ; prophecy relating to, 247 Shaikantaur, 103 Shakespeare, 361 Shakmunia (Shakya Munya, or Buddha), 407 Sham, ii. 76 Shammanism, 38: ii. 137, 138, 405 Shamsiya, the, 329, 332 Shansi, 371 Shariat, the, 169 Sharmitan, ii. 75 Shash, ii. 236 Shauju, ii. 196 Shav'ing, 180 Shaw, Mr., 104; ii. 388 Sheep in Central Asia, 326 Sheep-bones, ii. 31 Sheep-dung, ii. 31 Sheep-ticks, ii. 91 Sh^hab-Eddin, 401 Sheibani Khan, 112, 340, 377, 378, 379, 380, 3S1 INDEX. 455 SHE Sheibani Nameh, 363, 378 Sheibanide, the, 379, 380 Sheikh-aryk, ii. 351 ; ferry of, ii. 342 Sheikh-Nur-Eddin, 375 Sheikh-ul-Islam, 72 Shemakha, ruler, the, ii. 395 Shenkal, ruler, the, ii. 395 Shen-si, ii. 173, 178, 319 Shepelef, Captain, ii. 135 Sheraffei, 97, 98 Sheref-eddin, 373 Shibberjan, ii. 267 Shiite, 91 Shikarpur, 111, 184 Shin-sui-ho-dzi, 172; ii. 169 Shir Ali, 343, 345, 346, 347, 348, 388; ii. 268, 276, 277, 313, 314, 315, 316 Shir Ali Khan, 260, 359 Shirabad, ii. 313 Shirash, 11-14 Shiraz, 7<», 370 Shirin-hatun, ii. 117 Shirin and Ferbat, story of, 108, 109 Shir-Naib, 117 Shmelef, ii. 94, 99 Shoemakers in Tashkent, 183 Shooting on the Steppe, 23-24 Shopkeepers' tax, ii. 241 Shugnan, 343 ; ii. 316 Shukur-Daitehin, ambassadors of the, ii. 399 Shurakhana, 54 ; ii. 339, 342, 354, 367, 369 ; submits, ii. 342 Sianghi Muiad, ii. 113 Siberia, 34, 75, 77, 100, 358; ii. 154, 394, 397, 398, 399, 402; conquest of, 8 Siberian Cossacks, the, ii. 399 ; houses, ii. 153 ; Kirghiz, the, ii. 412 ; mes- senger, 382, 408 ; trade, 46 Sibos, ii. 170 ; dialect of the, ii. 170 Sibyar, 103 Sie-mi-sze-kan, 236 Siganak, 364 Sihun, 50 Si-liao, the, 395 Silk, 366; culture, school of, 201 filatures, 199 ; goods at Tashkent, 190; legend on origin of, 191 ; pro- duction of, 193, 194; statistics of, 216 ; trade, the, 216 ; trade of Cen- tral Asia, the, 190-201, 216; wind- ing, 198, 199 Silkworms, 194 : ii. 382 ; diseases of, 197, 198; ?ggs, 194; speculations in, 199 Sillau, practice of giving, h. 37 Silver in Zaraphan, 279 Silver on the Fan, 279 Sinioda, ii. 415 SOL Sin Eater, the, ii. 28 Siren (i.e. Sairam), 364 Si-shu ki, 398 Sisian, 407 Sitard, 131 Sitting postures, 119 Siundj Hodja, 379, 380 Si-yu-lu, 394 Sketch of the history of Khokand in recent times, 337 Sketches of the Khanate of Khokand, 338 Skin diseases, 148 Slave, purchase of, at Bukhara, ii. 101, 109, 310 Slavery, ii. 309 ; in Khiva, the Khan abolishes, ii. 3.53 ; not allowed in Sharisabs, ii. 72 Slaves from Tashkent sold in Khokand, 97 Slave-trade, ii. 309, 310; increase of, ii. 311 ; in Bukhara, ii. 100-109 Slippers, ii. 193 Sluzhenko, Lieutenant, ii. 302 Smoking, 126, 127 Snow, in Buam Pass, ii. 134; melting, 52 ; sold in bazaars, 73 Snow-storms. 5 ; ii. 337 Snuff, 127 Soap, 181 Sol>olef, Colonel, ii. 54, 374 ; the ethno- logist, ii. 373 Society, Central Asiatic, 84 ; its diffi- culties, 84 Society for encouragement of Bussian trade, 84 ; Bussian, in Samarkand, 226; native, of Tashkent, 85-100 Society in Tashke^, 83 Society, Imperial Bussian Geographical 81; its lack of interest in country, 84 Society of \atural History and Anthro- pology, 84 Society of the lovers of natural history at Moscow, ii. 374 Sofi Khan, ii. 384 Sofora. 182 Sogd, 379 Sogdia, 390 Sogdiana, 236, 237 ; ii. 164 Sokh, ii. 282 Soldier, the Bussian, his position in Turkistan, ii. 230 Soldiers, accusations against, ii. 353 ; •hardships of, ii. 353; Bussian, in Central Asia, 264, 266 Solomon's throne, 353 ; ii. 43, 45 ; traditions of, ii. 43 Solons, the, ii. 170; massacred by Dungans, ii. 183 456 INDEX. SOL Solpuga araneoides, ii. 123 Solpuga intrepida, ii. 123 Somof, ii. 322 ; caravan of, ii. 323 Songs of the Batchas, 135 ; of the Dervishes, 258 Son Kul, Lake, ii. 132 Sorghum, 291 Sori, 407 Sorokin, Ivan, 382 Sosnofsky, Captain, 390 Sotnia of Cossacks, 45 Spaski, G. J., 382 Special commissions, ii. 262 Special Steppe Commission, ii. 203 Spectacles, ii. 193 Spiders, 228 ; ii. 123 Spies, supposed murder of Russian, 48 Sport, 66 Stags, 393 Stanislas, Julien, M., 394 State of Transoxania, 378 Statues found in Steppe, ii. 153; near Dsyk Kul, ii. 130 Staunton, ii 171 Stchedrin, 207 Steamers on Aral Sea, 47 Stebnitzky, expedition of Colonel, ii. 381 Stellio Lehmanni, 323 Stempel, Major, his advance on Samar- kand, 21-5 Steppe, the, 1, 13, 15, 17, 18, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 32, 102 ; acceptation of, ii. 204 ; animals of, 23 ; appointment of General Kryzhonfsky, ii. 204 ; birds of, 23 ; character of, 22 ; com- mission, ii. 201, 233; crossing the, 22 ; famished, 227, 228 ; flowers of, 227, 228 ; Golodnaya, 226 ; imagi- nary dangers of, 21 ; main features of, ii. 204, 205 ; rivers of, 23 ; vege- tation of, 67, 227, 228 Stewart, 373, 374 Stoddnrt, 259, 361, 387 Stoletof, Colonel, ii. 373, 374, 383, 421 Stone bridge, 232 Storks, 71 Strabo, 50 Strashny-Senukovitch, Colonel, 24 Stremovukhof, Mr. ii. 313 Struve, Mr., ii. 19, 270, 272, 277, 278, 302, 310 Stud at Kaplan-Bek, ii. 284 Suan-tuan, the, 396 Sub-divisions of populations, ii. 205 Submission of the numerous Horde of Kirghiz, ii. 403 Su, dynasty of, 366 Sufi, the, 157, 348 ; Bek, 359 Sufi Badal, ii. 254 Suidun, ii. 159-161, 169, 172, 188 192; attack on Dungans at, ii. 180 i bazaar at, ii. 161 ; houses of, ii. 1601 walls of, i>. 159 Sui Lun, ii. 131 Suiones, the, ii. 164 Suk, 355 Sukulkhan, 406 Suleiman Bii, 339 Sulhuk, 158 Su-li, 392 Suit, ii. 137, 138 Sultan Abil Ogla, ii. 183, 185, 188 Sultan Ali Mirza, ii. 97 Sultan Baber, ii. 394 Sultan Bek, 279 Sultan Daulet Bushaef, ii. 419 Sultan Hazert mountains, 276 Sultan Kenisar Kasimof, ii. 412 Sultan, Kirghiz, 32, 33 Sultan Mahmud, 342, 359, 379 Sultan Murad, 348 ; ii. 281 Sultan Murad Bek, 353, 359 Sultan Murad Bek of Marcjhilan, ii. 49, 291 Sultan Tezak, ii. 250 Sultans of Egypt, 408 Sumach, 183 Sum bar, the river, ii. 381 ; the upper, ii. 382 Sumbul, 181, 276 Sumbula, 329, 330 Summons to the Russians to become Mussulmans, ii. 283 Sumuls, ii. 170, 200 Stin-Sze Kan, 236 Suna Ami, 349, 359 Sunday Bazaar, the, 175 Sunnites, 91, 155, 156 Sunstrokes, ii. 345 Superstitions, ii. 29, 30, 31, 32 ' Supplement a l'histoire generale dea Huns, des Turks, et des Mogols,' 363 Surkhab, 275 Surma, 180 Surnai, 132 Survey, Book of the Great, 50, 53 Survey of the Aral Sea, ii. 412 Sut Kul or Milky Lake, ii. 191 Su-ye, 392, 393 Suzak, 356 Sweden, ii. 398, 415 Swedes, ii. 398 Sweetmeats, 121 Swiss travellers, 48 Sword-blades, manufacture of, 177, 178 Sybi Khan, 393 Synagogue at Samarkand, 260 Syr Dayra, the, 28, 30, 51, 52, 53, 54, 102, 105, 106, 236, 363, 368, 386, INDEX. 457 SYR 387, 391, 401, 407, 411 ; ii. 335, 337, 416, 417 ; course of, ii. 54, 55 ; attempts to improve it, 55, 56 ; ferry over, 226 ; tolls on, ii. 59 ; ice on, 327, 328 Syr river, ii. 409 Syrtlanof, Captain, 267 Syrym, 32 Sy shekku Khan, 393 TABARI, 369 Tabriz, 72 Tabushin, 275 Tad, 106 Tadjik dialect, the, 109, 367 Tadjiks, 102, 104, 105, 106, 108, 109, 278; ii. 56; language, 109, 110; origin of, 105, 106 ; their character- istics, 108 ; villages of, 102, 106 Taftazani, 374 Taganrog, ii. 265 Taitsi, ii. 165 Takhta Karatchi, pass of, ii. 62 Takht-i-Suleiman, ii. 43, 45 Taksaba, ii. 7, 82, 101-111 Talas, 391, 395, 398, 401, 404, 406, 410 ; ii. 120, 121 ; the river, 397 Ta-la-su-mo-lien, 396, 397 Ta-la-sze, 395, 399 Talgar, ii. 145 Talkhnameh, ii. 236 Talki defile, the, 395, 397 Talki pass, the, 410 ; ravine, the, ii. 189 Talki river, the, ii. 189 Ta-lo-sse, 393 Talus Hakim, 192 Tambourine, 131 Tamdy, 68 Tamerlane, 231, 238, 239, 369. 73; legends of, 277 ; the army of, 340 Tana, 401 Tan dynasty, ii. 131 Tanais, 236 Tanap, 103, 303, 305; ii. 206, 241, 302 Tangut, ii. 167 Tanning, 183 Taragai river, 50 Taran, 200, 276 Tarautas, 18 Tarantchi shops, ii. 193 ; women, ii. 195 Taranchis, ii. 197, 199, 319 ; calamities of, ii. 174 ; defeat the Dungans, ii. 182; defeated by Russians, ii. 184- 186; language of, ii. 169; origin of, ii. 1 69 ; relations with Russians, ii. 181-186 ; rule Kuldja, ii. 183 TCH Tarantulas, ii. 123 ; legends of, 250, 311 Taraz, 395, 404; ii. 120 Tarbagatai, ii. 326 ; insurrection in, ii. 180 Tarikhi Mukhim Khan, 363, 381 Tartardom in Russia, ii. 391 Tartars, 12, 14, 102, 104, 108, 48, the, 376, 405; of Nogai Kurgan, 102; Turkish langunge used by, 3, 8 ; women, veiling of, 124 Taryk, 291 Tash, 203 Tashanr, ii. 354 Tashi Lin-va, 396 Tashkent, 45, 66, 67, 338, 339, 340, 341, 349, 350, 352, 353, 354, 358, 360, 361, 375, 379, 388, 389, 410; ii. 193, 313. 335, 337, 343, 377, 388 404, 409, 423 ; alarm at, ii. 285 ; capture of, 112, 113; different races among the inhabitants of, 104; dis- traction of trees for luel at, 102 ; divisions of the town of, 103 • failure of irrigation canal, 103 ; its history, 111,112; its streets, buildings, walls and gardens, 101 ; origin aud meaning of the name, 111; population, 104; proclamation of General Tchernaief, 115, 116; taxes. 103, 104 Tashkentians, 59, 207, 338 Tash Kupriuk, 232 Tash Kurgan, ii. 121 Tatarinof coal field, the, 320 Tatarmof, Colonel, 319 ; Mr., ii. 302 Tataristan, 406 Taurus, 407 Ta-wan, ii. 54 Taxation, amount of, 305, 306 Taxes, ii. 211 Tax for the salaries of the Aksakals, &c.,ii. 242 Taxes in Khokand, ii. 57, 60 ; in Kuldja under Chinese, ii. 169 ; Tashkent, 103, 104; native, in Tashkent, 204, in Zarafshan, 306 ; of Orenburg Kair- ghiz, 34 Tchagan Khagan, ii. 143 Tchaikofsky, Colonel, theory of course of Amu Darya, 53 Tchaikofskv, Colonel, ii. 135 Tchairdy, i'i. 380, 382 Tchakhars, the, ii. 170, 171 Tchaksa, 201 Tchalkar lake, 23 Tehampans, ii. 173 Tchanaktchik, ii. 348 Teh'ang-ba-la. 395 Tch'ang Tch'un, 372, 395-398, 406 ; ii. 121, 122, 191 458 INDEX. TCH Tch'ang, Governor General, ii. 179, 182 Tch'ang Te, 395, 398-400, 401, 402, 410 Tch'ang Tchun, the Chinese traveller, 188, 132. 227, 237, 240 Tchao-hoei. the Chinese General, 338 Tchapan, 122, 123 Tchar, fortress of, 406 Tchardara, 68 Tchardjui, 184, 279; ii. 73, 308; permis- sion to visit, ii. 84 ; visit forbidden, ii. 109-112 Tcharik, 201, 202 Tcharishli, ii. 380 Tcharku, ii. 13 Tchar-su bazaar at Bukhara, ii. 94 Tcharu tribe, the, ii. 420 Teharva, ii. 382 ; grounds, the, ii. 381, 382 Tchat, ii. 380, 381 Tchatch, 111, 112, 365, 367 Tchatch mountains, ii. 12 Tehatkal mountains and valley, 102 Tchatyr Kul, ii. 132 Tchaudurs, the, ii. 372, 375 Tehaudyr, the, 382 Tcheka, value of, 203 ; ii. 303 Tcheleken, ii. 343, 423 Tcherik, ii. 137 Tcherkess, 8 Tehernaief, General, 75, 103, 112, 113, 114, 115, 116, 117, 124, 175. 353, 388, 389 ; ii. 120, 302, 331, 333, 401 ; campaign of, ii. 274 ; his behaviour, 116; his capture of Tashkent, 1 12— 115; his proclamation, 115, 116; men, 266 ; receives deputation from Tashkent, 89 ; title among the na- tives, 117 Tche-shi, 393 Tchi-gu, ii. 130 Tchikishlar, ii. 335, 336, 344, 380 Tchilek, 241-243 Tchilim, 126 Tchillya, 198 Tchilmanda, 131 Tchil-petch, 123 Tchim, ii. 64 Tchimbar, ii. 369, 371, 373 Tchimkent, 51, 73, 74, 75, 112, 349, 350, 357, 398, 41 1 ; ii. 120, 250 ; cap- ture of, 75 ; derivation of, 75 Tchimpantzi, ii. 158, 169, 172 Tchimur, 399 Tehinars, 270 Tchinaz, 68, 113, 114, 226; ii. 337 Tchinaz fort, occupation of, 113, 114 Tchinghiz, ii. 398 ; army of, ii. 398 ; dynasty of, 238 Tchinghiz Khan, 106, 112, 188, 236, TEU 238, 337, 365, 372, 373, 394, 395, 410 ; ii. 165, 372 ; Prince, 1, 2, 3, 34 Tchinghizides, the, 372 Tchini, manufacture of, 187, 188 Tchin-tcha-ho-dzi, ii. 159, 169, 186 Tchiraktchi, ii. 75, 244, 305 Tchirtchik, 51, 113, 115, 182, 349; river, 51, 102, 226, 324 Tchjan-Tsiang, 237, 366 Tchomura, ii. 382 Tchon-bagysh, ii. 137 Tchoros, the, ii. 165, 398 Tchu, 54, 55, 292, 392, 393, 402, 404, 405, 410 ; ii. 126, 127, 142 ; naviga- tion of, ii. 143 ; its rise and connec- tion with lake Issy-kul. 54 ; former course, 54, 55 ; scenery from bridge over the, ii. 127 Tchudar Sary Lshan, ii. 343 Tchugutchak, 400, 405, 410; ii. 166, 191, 326, 414, 415 ; captured, ii. 180; fairs at, ii. 184, 185 Tchumatch Bii, 339, 359 Tchumtchu Khan, 95 Tchupan-ata, hill of, 233, 239 ; fight at, 242, 245 ; legend of, 233 Tchurnak, 71 Tehushvara, 125 Teh ust, ii. 297 Tchusta, 344 Tea, 37 ; houses in Tashkent, 179, 180 trade of Bukhara, ii. 95, 96 ; statis- tics of, 216, 217 Teaching, method of, 165 Teich, Mr., 27 Tekes, the river, ii. 137, 152 Tekke ad, a, ii. 383 Tekke oasis, the, ii. 383 Tekke Turkomans, ii. 346, 380, 382 attack by, ii. 345; attacks of, ii. 370 route of the, ii. 370 T. kkes, the, ii. 374, 381 Telegraphs at Tashkent, 204 Tele Kul, 54 Temur-khan-shura, ii. 423 Temurtu-No!', ii. 131 Temyr Kabuk, ii. 338 Tenga, 153 ; ii. 303 Tenghis, ii. 154 Terek Divan, ii. 280 ; pass the, 51 ; ii. 321 Terek, the, ii. 396 Terekli, 18, 26 Teremai, 287, 288 Tereutief, ii. 385, 388, 416; M. A., ii. 272, 273 Ters, valley of the, 393 Terskei, ii. 131 Teutonic race, ancestors of in Jungaria, ii. 164 INDEX. 459 TEV Tevvekel, 30 Thaethsing y thoung tchi, or Great Geo- graphy of Chinese empires, 338 Thang, dynasty of, 366 ; dynasty, the, 393, 410 Thibet, 410; ii. 398, 399 Thilo, Colonel, 28 ; ii. 374 Thompson, George, 360 Thomson, Mr. E., 361 ; ii. 385 Thousand sources, ii. 122, 123; 390, 392, 393 Throne of Solomon, the, ii. 43-45 Thsian Thsionen, 393 Thsing-tchi lake, 392 Tian Shan, the, 50, 54, 274, 278, 390, 394, 395, 409 ; ii. 132-135, 325; inhabitants of the neighbourhood of, ii. 135, 136; mountains of, ii. 132 ; 133; roads through, ii. 133, 134 ; 135 Tie-mu-r-ts'an-ch'a, 399 Tienstin, massacre at, ii. 177 Tigers, 227 Tilan, ii. 284, 286 Tiles, 187 ; enamelled, 70 Tilla, analysis of, 204 ; value of, 203 Timi at Samarkand, "257 Timis at Bukhara, ii. 94 Timur, 238, 247, 249; ii. 68, 71, 97; coins of, ii. 97 ; at Khokand, con- structions of, ii. 71 ; library of, 240; ii. 97 ; the name, 375 ; the tomb of 70, 71, 72, 110, 252-255; throne of, 254, 255 Timur's wife, 249, 250, 256 Timurides. the, 340, 374, 375, 378 Tingabalekh, 406 Tish-kari, 118 Tiume-Kent, Euins of, ii. 121 Tiura-Bek-Yiura, 342 Tiura Jan, the, ii, 306, 307 Tiura Kurgan, 358, ii. 297; fort of, 356 Tobacco, 294; use of, 127 Tobaeva, 5 Tobol, the, ii. 398 Tobolsk, ii. 401 Togai, ii. 138 Togon Timur, ii. 165 Toins, the, 407 Tokan, 19 Tokhfil, 198 Tokhta Nazar, 348, 359 Tokhtamish, 340, 374, 383, 384 Tokhtamysh, ii. 308 Tokhtamysh, Bek of Shahrisabs, ii. 280 Tokmak, 54, 351, 392, 400; ii. 126, 150, 205 Tokran river, ii. 154 Tokto Mohammed, of Andijan, 338 TUH Tokus-tara-osten canal, ii. 174 Tomasha, 136, 137 Tomb of Saint Khala-ata, the, ii. 240 Tomsk, ii. 209 Topographical survey of the Kirghiz Steppes, ii. 401 Topography of Khokand, ii. 54-56 Torgot, ii, 398 ; Khan, ii. 201 Torgots, ii. 165, 172, 197, 199, 200, 201, 519 Tornau, Baron, 155 Tozai Khan, 342 Trade between Eussia and Khokand, ii. 17; at Bukhara, ii. 94-96; of Bukhara, ii. 214; with Bukhara, ii. 410 ; Central Asiatic, 45, 56 ; in Tashkent, 212; Kazala, 43; Kir- ghiz, 34; of Khiva, 215; of Kho- kand, 215 ; of province of Khuldja, ii. 198 Trade routes, 219 ; Bukhara, 219 ; Kho- kand, 219 Trades depot at Kazala, 45 Trades in Tashkent, 174 Trading, indifference of natives, to, 176 Trans-Caspian district, ii. 378 ; boxui- daries of, ii. 378 Trans-Ili region, ii. 145 Transoxiana, 366, 368, 380 Transport, means of, 218 ; cost of, 219, 220 Trans-Volga coimtry, the, 393 Travellers murdered at Balkh, 48 Travelling, amusements of. 20 ; dangers and difficulties of, 21, 26, 29; ii. 14, 15, 18 Travels of Pospielof and Buruashof to Tashkent, 339 Treachery of a jigit, ii. 47, 48 Treaty, of Kuldja, ii. 414; of Nert- chinsk, the, ii. 403, 415; with Buk- hara, ii. 310, 421 ; stipulations of. ii. 311; with Japan, ii. 415; with Khiva, ii. 417; with Khokand, ii. 275, 276 Trebizond, 391 Trees, destruction of, 102; veneration of, 138 Troitsk, 12, 34 Trotzky, General, ii. 295, 296, 339, 347' Trumpets, 132 Tsanma river, ii. 200 Tsar Alexis, ii. 273 Tsar of Moscow, the, ii. 395 Tsar, White, 115, 117 Tsevan Eabdan, ii. 167 Tsin-Shi-Hwang, ii. 143 Tub, river, ii. 130 Tu-hiu, 390 460 INDEX. TIU Tiumen-aryk, 52 Tukhmak, 182 Tu-kue, the, 392, 393 Tuli Khorason, 372 Tulips, 60 ; wild, 26 Tuli-shen, ii. 171 Turan and Iran, 105 Turanian, neighbours of Transoxiana, the, 367 Turanians, 105 Turbans. 123, 189 Turfan, 369; ii. 133, 319 Turgai district, 12, 33 Turki. dialect, 109 ; language, 52, 84, language of the Uzbeks, 103, 109; princes, 237 ; races, 105 Turkish names, 389 ; race, 34 Turkistan, 31, 51, 102, 342, 360; ii. 205 ; city, 70, 75, 91 ; detachment, the, 351,367; Gazette, 226; ii. 210, 288, 388 ; population, 100 ; Tsar, ii. 395 Turkoman campaign, account of an eye-witness, ii. 359-363; a ' wagen- burg' ordered, ii. 360; confusion in camp, ii. 361; Gromof's account of, ii. 359-363 ; no quarter shown in the, ii 360 ; reasons for, ii. 355 Turkoman country ravaged by Bus- sians, ii. 371 Turkomans, the, 48, 106, 107, 369; ii. 305, 340, 344, 345, 347, 348, 351, 355, 356, 357, 358, 369, 371 ; beginning of friendly relations with ii. 384 ; butchery of, ii. 358 ; danger from, ii. 81 ; disorders of, ii. 374 ; horses of, 129; hostages of, ii. 359; in Mangyshtak, ii. 398 ; inhabiting the Steppe eastward of the Caspian, ii. 381 ; Khan of, imposes tax on the, ii. 377 ; Khan of Khiva visits the, ii. 377 ; ornaments of, ii. 359 ; pay in- demnities, ii. 377 ; proposed cam- paign against, ii. 355 ; punished, ii. 375, 376 ; sui prise Eussian camp, ii. 362 ; taxes on, ii. 378 Turks, the, 367, 405 Turquoise, 322 ; ii. 56 Turu-aigyr, ii. 128 Tus, 407 Tuya-Tartar canal, 227, 286 Tuz, 347 Tuzgul, ii. 131 Tver, 201 Typhus at Hi, ii. 181 Tyranny of Khudayar Khan, ii. 60 UBEIDULLAH, 379, 380, 381, 383 Udjan, 364 TIST I Ufa, 3, 162; ii. 407 ' Uigurische Sprachmonumente,' 370 Uigurs, the, 365, 369, 370, 371, 391; ii. 136, 164, 173 Ulama, 374 Ulanburn, 395 Ulkun, the, ii. 374 Ulkun Darya, ii. 347 Ulug Bek, 71, 231, 375; astronomi- cal papers of, 332 ; observatory of, 233 Uhmgur, the river, 398, 405 Unkofskv, Captain, ii. 401 Unnecessary diplomatic relations, ii, 270 Unran, ii. 178 Upa, 181 Upper Irtysh, 410 Upper Oxus, 391 Upper Zarafshan, ii. 277 Ural Cossacks, 7, HI Ural mountains, 16, 33 Ural river, 5, 8, 9, 10, 11, 13, 16, 17. 22, 31, 34, 129 Uralsk. 6, 33 ; ii. 347, 367 ; Cossack labour market at, 7 Uralsk Kirghiz, 33 Uralskoe, 24, 25 Ura-tepe, 88, 92, 113, 148, 278, 284, 310, 311, 312, 339, 340, 341, 342, 349; ii. 249; climate of, 327; his- tory of, 312 Urda, ii. 10 Urda bazaar, 158, 175 Urgentch, 401; ii. 312, 328; Tsar of, ii. 395 Urgut. 279, 280, 283 ; ii. 305 ; bazaar of, 271 ; capture of, 242 ; dancing at, 271, 272 ; Hindoos at, 273 Urman Bek, 359 ; ii. 282 Urmitau, 281, 342 Ursturt, the, ii. 422 Ush, 339, 353, 354, 356 ; ii. 43-48, 281 ; Baber's description of, ii. 44 ; Solomon's throne at, ii. 43, 45 ; sur- render of, ii. 292 Urumtse, 342, 409, 410; ii. 133, 174, 180, 199; capture of, by Dungansj ii. 178 Urungan river, the, 410 Urunkhai embassies, ii. 397 Urush Kishlak, ii. 63 Urusuf, Prince, ii. 74 Urusokhan, 406 Usek rixer, ii. 157 Ush Turfan, 343 Usma, 180 Usrushna, 312, 394 Usta Kasim, 187 Usturt, the, ii. 335, 363, 374 INDEX. 461 TJST Ustyk, ii. 119 Usuk river, ii. 170 Usurers in Tashkent, 186 Usury forbidden by Mussulman law 186 Usun, the, ii. 164 Utamish, the, ii. 386 Utbi, 370 Utch Kurgan, 356; ii. 23-35, 370; life in, ii. 27 Utch-Utchak, 349 ; ii. 339, 340, 347, 351, 370 Uyezds, the, ii. 205 Uzbek, 377, 379 ; Khan, 377 ; invasion, the, 362 Uzbeks, the, 30, 106-109, 129, 338, 340, 345, 347, 352, 362, 369 ; ii. 56, 329 ; characteristics of the, 106, 107 ; clans of the, 106, 108; language of the, 108, 109 ; origin of name of, 106 •Uzbek state of Khokan,' by W. H. Wathen, the, 338 Uzboi, the, ii. 379, 382 ; exploration of, ii. 344, 379, 380 Uzgent, 355 ; ruins at, ii. 46 Uzunagatch, ii. 149 ; Khanyat Shah, at. ii. 144 ; Kolpakoftky at, ii. 144 ; Eussian victory at, ii. 143 T7ADJAN, 364 > Vakhan, 364 ; ii. 267 Valide, Sultana, the, ii. 324 Valikhanof, ii. 138 Valley of Fergana, 337; of Kash.ii. 199 ; of Kunges, ii. 199 : of Zarafshan an- nexed to Russia, ii. 304 Vambery, Mr. 360 ; ' History of Buk- hara,' review of, 360-389 Van, 372 Vang, ii. 143 Vaqf lands, 163, 298-300 Vardan, 369 Vardenis, 405 Varganzi, ii. 114 Variations in level of Isyk Kul, ii. 131 Varsaminor, 277, 281, 282 Vashan, river, ii. 150 Vasilief, ii. 179 Vassili III. ii. 394 Vegetables in Kuldja, ii. 196 Vegetation of the Steppe, 67 ; quickness of growth of, 76 Veils, 124 Veliaminof Zernof, Mr. 337, 349,382 Veli-n-niem, 385 ; ii. 72, 73 Venality, ii. 247 Veniukof, Colonel, ii. 174 Verestchagin, Captain, 46, 47, 48 ; pro- hibits going to Khiva, 47, 48 Verevkin, Colonel (General), 48 ; ii. WHE 343, 347, 348, 349, 350, 353 ; wound- ed, ii. 349 Verkh, origin and use of word, 152 Vermicelli, ii. 193 Vise Regnorum Auctore al-Istakhri, 364 Viatka, ii. 209 Viceroy of India, ii. 315 Viernoe, ii. 412, 413 Vierny, 81, 327, 351, 397. 404; ii. 305, 325, 388 ; character of, ii. 146 ; Chi- nese at, ii. 147; name of, ii. 145; personages at, ii. 147-149 ; position of, ii. 145 ; road from, ii. 152 View from Pass Takhta Karatchi, ii. 62 View of Ministry of Finance of expenses of administration in Turkistan, ii. 209 Views of Indian Government, ii. 266 Vihara, 368 ; ii. 89 Vitkevitch, 361, 387 Vizir, ii. 312 Vladimir, Grand Duke, 41 Vladimir, Monomakh, cap of, 153 Vodka, ii. 283 ; in Khokand, ii. 40, 41 Volcanoes in Central Asia, ii. 133 Volga, the, 2, 371, 377, 402; ii. 265, 391, 393, 396, 397 ; German colonies on 2 ; region of the, 337 Volga Tartars, ii. 404 Volosts, ii. 205 Von Gutschmidt, Prof., 389 Vorontsof-Dashkof, Count, 389 ' Voyages des Pelerines Bouddhistes,' 394 WAHABI sect, the, 156, 172 Wakh, the, 391 Walls of Khokand, ii. 4 ; of Tashkent, 101 Wartmann, Colonel, ii. 192, 199 Watches in Bukhara, 176 Water, ii. 92 ; communications in Cen- tral Asia, 221, 222 Waterfalls, 277 Water-melons, 297 Water-mills, 101 ; ii. 383 Week days, 332 Weights and measures, 201, 202 ; veri- fication of, 202 Weil, 368 Weinberg, Mr., ii. 20, 271, 280, 281, 282 Wells in Kyzyl-kum, 69 Wells, poisoned, ii. 419 Western Asia, 366 Western China, trade with, ii. 414 Western Jungaria, 371 Wheat, 398, ii. 338 ; production of 291, 292 462 INDEX. WHI Whips, ii. 15 Whirlwinds of snow, 5 Whistling, ii. 30 ' White bone,' 32 ; ii. 405 White mountains, the, 390 White Tsar, 115, 117 ; ii. 238, 294, 312, 314, 420; origin of title, ii. 143 Will of Peter the Great, ii. 258 Wines of Central Asia, 297 Wives, influence of, 146, 147 ; numbers of, 145, 146 ; position of, 146 : privi- leges of, 145; rights of, 145, 146 Wolff, Dr., 259, 361 Women, dancing of, 136, 137, 140 dress of, 123, 124; Kirghiz, 40 morals of, 124; seclusion of, 152 unveiling of, 124 Wood, Major H., ii. 373; theory of course of the Oxus, 54 Wood turning, 188 Words of command, ii. 16 Words, eastern, in Russian language, 152,153 Wrestling, 128 Wu-duan, 894 Wu-sun, 398 yENOPHON, 128 YAGNAU DARYA, 275, 276, 278 279, 280 Yaik, the, 8, 9, 400, 401 ; ii. 396, 398, 404 Yaik Cossacks, ii. 328 Y'ailaks of the Uzbeks, 309 Yaka-tut, ii. 49 Yakobak, ii. 306 Yakub Bek, 353 ; ii. 183, 186, 278, 320, 423 ; attempts to abduct his niece, 99, 100, Yakub Khan, 64, 91, 92, 95, 99, 324, 350; ii. 278, 316-325, 334; opposes Russian trade, ii. 318, 319; titles of, ii. 316, 317 Yalantash Bahadur, 251, 252 Y'ambs, ii. 322 Y'anhai, ii. 131 Yangy-Hissar, 342, 343 ; ii. 306 Yangy-Kishlak, 269, 270, 272 Y"angy-Urda, fortress of, ii. 41, 42 Y'anikent, 401 Yanitski, M. 223 Yany Darya, the, 52, 287 ; ii. 417 Y'any Kurgan, 232, 243, 389 Yany-sabak pass, 275, 281 Yany-su, the, ii. 374 Yarim Padshah (half king), 81 Yarkand, 75, 322 ; ii. 266 ZAR Yarmaks, ii. 176 Y T arra-Afgani (Afghan sore). 48 Yassy, 70, 72 Y'axardes, 371 Yaxartes, the, 365, 386 Yazub Bek, ii. 387 Yazykof, 53 Yeframof, Philip, 240, 318, 360 Yeliu-Tashi, 371, 372 ; ii. 122 Yellow river, 399 Ye-lu-Tch'u-ts'ai, 236, 394, 395 ; ii. 3 Y r eman, 398, 400, 402 Yeneseisk, ii. 209 Yenissi, ii. 136 Yermak, 8 Yevgraf, ii. 19, 144 Yinshan mountains, 394, 395, 396 l'i-tchou, 394 Yi-t'ien, 394 Yi-tu, 399, 400 Yi-Yiin river, 399 Yomuds,the, ii. 349, 355, 356, 357, 370, 380, 381, 385 ; of the Attrek, ii. 380 ; of Bairam-Shaly, ii. 359 : of Hazavat, ii. 372 ; contributions placed upon, ii. 356 Yucca, 309 Yulbars Khan, 340 Yuldash Parnamatohi, 279, 280 Yulduz, the river, ii. 200, 319, 334 Yule, Colonel, 404, 405; ii. 122; 'Cathay and the Way Thither' of, 391 Yultchi, 237 Yuniisk, 28 Y'unus Hodja, 339, 340, 341 Yunus Khan, 378 Yus Ming Kysh, 106 Yus Uzbek, tribe of, 107 Yusuf Hodja, 342, 347 Yuzbashi, ii. 7 ZAGOSKIN, 28 Zagyr Bii, ii. 343 Zakharof, Mr. (Russian Consul at Kuldja), 402; ii. 177, 191 Zamin, 88, 309, 364 Zang-ata, feast of, 138, 139, 140; shrine of, 138 ; women's dance at, 140 Zarafshan district, annexation of the upper, 283 ; arable land in, 284 ; disturbances in, 283 ; expedition to the upper, 281, 283 ; irrigation of, 286, 289 ; productiveness of Valley of, 291, 292 ; regulation of water in Upprr, 288, 289 Zarafshan Mountains, 102, 188, 191, INDEX. 463 ZAR 195, 274, 275, 310; passes in the, 275, 276 Zarafshan river, 276, 277 ; tributaries of the, 277 Zekat, the, 204, 205, 206 ; ii. 206, 241, 302 ; abolition of, 206 ; receipts, 213 Zekat Serai, 5, 11, 14, 16 ; ii. 5 Zemarchus, 368, 390, 391 ; ii. 122 Zemsky Tax, 305, 306 ; ii. 206 Zemtchuzhnikoff, Mr , 227, 228 Zenga, ii. 167 Zerabulak, battle at, 245 Zera Bulak, battle of, ii. 304 ; heights of, 389 Zernof Veliaminof, 363, 381 Zhe-hai, ii. 131 Zflung (the Dzian-Dziun), ii. 185 ZUR Zianeddin, ii. 338 Zianeddin, 288, 289; ii. 117 Zimmerman, Colonel, ii. 9, 126 Zodiacal months, the, 330 Zone, the apricot, 327 ; fourth, 328 ; northern, 326 ; peach and almond, 327 Zikr, 158 Zil, 132 Zinet-et-Tavarikh, 370 Zodiak, 329, 330, 331 ; months of the, 322-329 Zongian, 407 Zulfukar Bek, ii. 286, 293 Zultchi, the, ii. 164 Zumkshir, ii. 344, 345, 363 Zungaria, ii. 166 Zurnukh, 407 THE END.