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A Motbiei\j\ JlONNfy ieag'Lf oDroiin Jatnmerbuf)* BirkeJj Hanstesd i ytnrup BrposU f,< ™rLdgou>L. LogstorX 'ring ’ %$trandby GislutnF /X.Virr'Lui tE&vdwi Ngjdu/e* S*_A V~\ P/B olle 'X ) I i II. .o /i Auh ol 1 iSpattr! '/Ujerg Iana* °Taastru&~ istrup hasten yfrilifotird bujaabro ‘ 1 »Lc\ enhobn Aufllpg i Faetre IRstrup^ Kullen ljj». strupb) LaSrhr; lilkebotfiT x-X MundrUmip™/, '^Jdarup (fJtot’t wuLi fAarhn; Crillel&ia^c 'lira fir arid Hr.lgene- yVoraod "rederik ' ''id o'' Lonbori iriksund* S.Omjnd Broby 'V'BR V<-n ,1 m H ad^ksTebeii f ' 1 Hoptfiu (Sj£r> 7 ier\ Amid) ' Bruhet nftLeborg, larso Vord iogb org^. \Fcemo Mdsnedo’bSi 1 Fdd&tedt Uoerup lev' j '‘faDyh (rr, l K e/iftri M'jC* t lifnfyenut^f ecp_ hilderup Moe.Ji Rantum ! LuAflnnd Fteri$ Or Wiehep. 't Zngtstot ^Fe] mier ii liloscerk-mp Eckemtoi ■opp tiling ste bMmstcdjt ie^tfhstadt Oldensworto. ’ Gtirthn^_^Ji ?ndsbiui -Aiere/wcd Rnstart' •eetz \ Nortb) _ / 1 JjlitSOU illescbendm .oatock Ho mho ' Tfsuu Raihvays Bissau 1 ’’WLsmar Reuif'c PHIili Schleswig and Holstein 'thorn i shorn Sth,**ari< jSan&vi^- 1 SI.AN D V"'"?” BORNHOLM V My vVluJ on lar » 6 Yin PART II. - THROUGH SCHLESWIG-HOLSTEIN TO JUTLAND. ROUTE PAGE 8. Hamburg to Skagen, by Elms- horn, Neumiinster, Schles¬ wig, Flensburg, Fredericia, Horsens, Skanderborg, Aar¬ hus, Langaa, Handers, Aal¬ borg, and Frederikshavn. Rail.12 9. Hamburg to Bramminge, by Elmshorn, Gliickstadt, Itze- hoe, Heide, Husum, Tonder, and Ribe. Rail ... 26 10. Husum to the Frisian Islands. Steamer.28 11. Flensburg to the Island of ROUTE PAGE Aals. Steamer and Car¬ riage-road .29 12. Skanderborg to Skjern, by Silkeborg. Rail ... 31 13. Aarhus to Grenaa, by Ryom- gaard. Rail .... 32 14. Langaa to Lunderskov, by Viborg, Skive, Struer, Yemb, Skjern, Esbjerg, and Bram¬ minge. Rail .... 35 15. Struer to Thisted. Rail . 38 16. Aalborg to Thisted, by the Aggersund. Steamer or Carriage-road .... 39 PART III. FYEN. ROUTE PAGE ROUTE PAGE 17. Hamburg to Copenhagen, 18. Odense to Bogense. Rail . 45 by Fredericia, Tommerup, Odense, Nyborg, and Kor- 19. Odense to Faaborg and sor—The Land Route. Rail Svendborg. Rail ... 45 and Steam-ferry . . .421 PART IV. ZEALAND AND MOEN. ROUTE PAGE 20. Nyborg to Copenhagen, by Korsor, Slagelse, Soro, Ring- sted, and Roskilde. Steam- ferry and Rail .... 48 21. Copenhagen to Klampenborg. Steam Tramway and Rail. The Dyrehave . . . .74 22. Copenhagen to Helsingor, by Hillerod (Frederiksborg). Rail.76 ROUTE 23. Copenhagen to Frederikssund. Rail ....... 24. Roskilde to Kallundborg. Rail. 25. Roskilde to Vordingborg, by Kjoge and Nestved. Rail. 26. Kjoge to Stubberup. Rail . 27. Slagelse to Nestved. Rail . PAGE 82 84 85 87 88 Contents. IX PART V. LOLLAND, FALSTER, AND BORNHOLM. ROUTE PAGE 28. Vordingborg to Gjedser, by Oreboved and Nykjobing. Steam-ferry and Rail . . 89 ROUTE PAGE 29. Nykjobing to Nakskov. Rail 90 30. Copenhagen to Bornholm. Steamer.91 ICELAND. INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION. SECT. PAGE 1 SECT. PAGE 1. Money Measures, Weights . 2. Passport, Custom House . 3. Means of Communication, Steamers. 4. Climate—Time for Visit . 5. Travelling in the Interior— Ponies, Guides .... 6. Outfit : Clothing, Boots, Waterproofs, Tents, Boxes, Provisions, Guns, Fishing-tackle, Sundries . 7. Cost of Travelling 95 96 96 97 97 98 100 8. Farmhouses, Inns, and other Accommodation . . . .101 9. Books and Maps—Variation of the Compass .... 101 10. Historical Notice . . . .103 11. Language and Literature . 104 12. Statistics.105 13. Physical Geography and Geology.108 14. Shooting, Fishing, Geolo¬ gising and Exploration . .110 i 15. Skeleton Tours . . . .Ill ROUTES. ROUTE PAGE 1. Leith to Reykjavik, touching at the Faroe Islands . . .113 2. Reykjavik, Thingvellir, Gey- sirs, Hekla.115 3. Krisuvik and the S.W. Penin¬ sula .119 ROUTE _PAGE 4. Across Iceland from Akureyri to Reykjavik.122 5. North-eastern Iceland and Askja.124 6. The Snsefells Jokull and N.W. Peninsula.127 Other Routes.130 Index and Directory . 133 ( x ) MAPS AND PLANS. General Map of Denmark .. Plan of Round Church, Thorsager Plan of Church at Roskilde Plan of Copenhagen Plan of Thorvaldsen Museum Traveller’s Map of Iceland .. at beginning. PAGE .. 34 .. 51 .. to face 72 .. .. 60 .. at end. SECTION I. DENMARK, WITH SCHLESWIG AND HOLSTEIN. INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION. SECT. PAGE 1. Money, Measures, Weights. . [1] 2. Travelling Expenses . . [2] 3. Language. . [2] 4 Passport . . [3] 5. Posting, Railroads, Steamers. . [3] 6. Inns and Hotel Accommodation. . [5] 7. Travelling Servants . . [6] 8. Clothes and Luggage . . [6] 9. Short Account of Denmark. . [3] 10. Historical Notice . . [9] 11. Statistics. .[16] 12. Books . .[18] 13. Skeleton Tours. .[19] 14. Every-day Sentences for Common Use.. .[19] 1.—Money, Measures, Weights. Money. —The currency of Denmark is based on a decimal system, and is sufficiently simple. The Krone (Is. 1^.), and the ore (about one- eighth of a penny), are the units of the system, and the krone contains 100 ore. At the usual rate of exchange, 11. sterling is equal to 18 kroner. There are gold coins of 10 and 20 kroner, very seldom found in circulation; silver coins of 2 and 1 kroner, and of 25 and 10 ore, and copper coins of 5, 2, and 1 ore. Introduction: Travelling Expenses — Language. Tlieir relative value in French and English money is as follows :— £ s. d. Francs Gold. 20 Kroner ,. ,, = 1 2 2 .. = 28 10 „ = 0 11 1 = 14 Silver. 4 „ = 0 4 5 .. = 5-60 2 „ .. .. = 0 2 21 .. .. = 2-80 1 „ — 0 1 11 •• = 1-39 25 ore — 0 0 3g = 0-35 10 „ = 0 0 1‘ .. = 0-14 Two kroner are equal to the old rigsdollar (2s. ?>d.). Paper currency is largely used, and retains its full value. The notes are all issued by the National Bank, which has the monopoly. English sovereigns and bank notes are readily changed in all the large towns, and undoubtedly the most convenient form of money for the traveller to take with him is the Bank of England 51. note. In Schleswig and Holstein the German Imperial currency is em¬ ployed. 1 mark is nearly equivalent to an English shilling, and is divided into 100 pfennings. There are gold coins of 20, 10, and 5 marks, and the 20 mark piece is of nearly equal value to the English sovereign. A sovereign is really worth 20 m. 43 pf., and a gold Napoleon is worth 16 m. 20 pf. 1 krone is equal to 1’13 mark; 15£ reals; 35 kopeks; 0*27 American cents; and 0*66 Austrian gulden. 2.—Travelling Expenses. Of course the expenses of a tour in any country depend to a great extent on the tastes and habits of the traveller, but it may be stated generally that travelling is expensive in Denmark. The krone fre¬ quently goes no further than the franc, the drachma, the lira, or the peseta, in their respective countries, although its value is about one- fourth greater. Measures. —The Danish foot is, like the English, divided into 12 inches, but is a trifle longer, being about equal to 12f English inches. Two Danish feet make an ell (Alen). The Danish mile is 24,000 feet Danish, and consequently rather more than 41 English miles. 1 kilom. = *1328 of a Danish mile; 1 Danish mile = 71 kilom. Weights. — 1 lb. (Pund) Danish is equal to 1 lb. 11 oz. av. English, and was formerly divided into 32 lod, of which consequently two made an English ounce. The decimal subdivision of the pound has now been introduced, and the use of it is compulsory. It has quite supplanted the old weights. 1 lb. = -1 a kilogramme = 100 kvint, and 1 kvint = *011 lb. avoirdupois. 3.—Language. The Danish and Norwegian being the same language, though spoken in some cases with a very different accent, and a vocabulary and dialogues being more likely to be of use in Norway than in Denmark, they are Introduction: Passports — Posting, Railroads, Steamers. [3] placed in the Introductory Remarks to the Handbook for Norway, from which a few Every-day Sentences for Common Use, p. [19], have been taken. Both the Danish and Swedish languages hear so strong an affinity to the English, that they are not found difficult to acquire. In Holstein and the south of Schleswig only German is spoken, and it is understood also in the north of Schleswig by the officials of the railways. In Copenhagen, English is spoken in all the principal hotels. 4.—Passport. Passports are not demanded of travellers entering the Danish ter¬ ritory, and Denmark was the first monarchy on the Continent which abolished that time-honoured, but often very inconvenient, institution; but a passport should always be taken as a means of establishing identity, and for procuring registered letters at the post-office. It is also useful sometimes to show to a banker when you desire him to cash a cheque. 5.—Posting, Railroads, Steamers. Posting, or as it is called “extrapost,” as distinguished from the ordinary or mallepost, is at most places still carried on under the management of Government, and every complaint is therefore promptly attended to. The whole country is provided with a network of ex¬ cellent macadamised high roads, which possess the additional charm of having no toll-bars, excepting only in the immediate neighbourhood of Copenhagen, where a very few of them still survive. Whilst in England so many of the principal roads are constructed by private persons or bodies, they are in Denmark constructed and maintained either by the Government or by the counties or “Amt.” The charge fixed by the tariff of the Royal Extra Post Service is 3 kr. 30 ore per Danish mile for a “Wienervogn” or chaise, holding 4 persons inside, with 2 horses, besides from 15 to 30 ore for the ordering of each horse. All that is to be paid is included in a paper called “ Time-seddel,” issued from the post-office. The traveller pays in advance the sum stipulated therein, after which the postillion has no further claim upon him. The paper is then delivered to the postillion, whose duty it is, on arrival at the station where his service ends, to present it again to the traveller, that he may note down the time of arrival, as well as his approval or disapproval of the postillion, and any other observation he may wish to make concerning the service. The extrapost is bound, from 1st of April to 31st of October, to proceed on all chaussees and equally good roads, when the stage is less than 4 Danish miles, at the rate of 1 mile in f of an hour; when the stage is 4 miles, it is to be performed in 3 1 hours; when the stage is beyond 4 miles, the first mile must be made in f of an hour, and the rest of the journey at the rate of 1 mile in an hour. The postillion is strictly enjoined to be civil and attentive to the travellers, to give assistance, in cases of emergency, in the packing and unpacking of luggage, and is also bound to carry certain tools, in order to be able to remedy any slight accident that might happen on the [ 4 ] Introduction: Posting , Railways, Steamers. road. The extrapost is to be on the spot f an hour after the order for it has been given, and to wait ^ an hour without extra charge. Formerly a complete system of mail-coaches existed for the conveyance of letters and passengers, under the authority and management of the Postmaster- General, and though this is now in many places superseded by railways, it is still the usual means of inland travelling. The mail-coaches are partly closed carriages, called diligences; partly open carriages, called dagvogne. The price of a place in one of the former is 65 ore per Danish mile ; in the second class 52 ore per mile. 30 lbs. of luggage are carried free; any greater quantity is charged for, but any quantity is carried, subject to certain limits of the size and weight of every package. The porters attached to the post-houses, litsenbroder , are bound to carry the traveller’s luggage, anywhere within town limits, free of charge. An omnibus, or dagvogn, is usually found at railway stations, and at the landing-places of steamers, for the convenience of travellers to neighbouring towns, or from one station to another. The charges are very moderate, and are fixed by tariff. Railways. —The first line opened in Denmark Proper was between Copenhagen and Roskilde, which very soon was continued to Korsor, and from this harbour steamers start twice daily for Kiel, Aarhus, Nyborg, Flensburg, and other places. In connection with the Korsor Railway, steamers cross the Great Belt to Nyborg, whence a railway crosses the island of Fyen, via Odense, to Strib on the narrowest part of the Little Belt, from which a steam ferry conveys the post and passengers to Fredericia in Jutland. From this point railways branch off both south and north. The southern branch is in direct communication with the railways of Schleswig and Holstein, and this is one of the routes between Hamburg and Copenhagen. The railway to the north from Fredericia traverses the whole length of the peninsular, and, in connection with steamers from Frederikshavn to Gothenburg, establishes a route from Hamburg and the Continent to Sweden and Norway. A branch of this railway connects Aarhus on the east coast of Jutland with all the west coast, while another branch runs from Skanderborg to Silkeborg, a picturesque neighbourhood in the very heart of Jutland. A third runs from Kolding due W. to Esberg, whence steamers ply to Harwich in 36 hours, on Tues., Thurs., and Sat. afternoon. Besides the great trunk railway, which traverses the whole kingdom, there are several smaller lines. The North Zealand Railway connects the capital with Helsingor, via Frederiksborg and Fredensborg, with a branch to Klampenborg, and a line runs S. from Roskilde through Kjoge and Nasstved to Yordingborg and Masnedsund, in connection with a short line on the island of Falster from Orehoved to Nykjobing. Another line runs N.W. to Kallundborg, whence there are steamers daily to Aarhus; while a line in a N.N.W. direction runs to Frederikssund and Jaegerspris, a lovely excursion. A short line on the island of Lolland runs from Bandholm to Maribo. The total length of lines is 1208 English miles, about 500 of which were constructed between 1864 and 1866 by Messrs. Peto and Brassey. 1000 miles of the railways belong to the State. Steamboats. —It is a necessary consequence of the natural configura¬ tion of the country that steamers play a great part in the inland traffic, Introduction : Inns and Hotel Accommodation. [ 5 ] and from Copenhagen a considerable number of boats keep up regular communication with almost every town and harbour of any importance. Those most likely to be of use to English travellers are those which ply in the Sound, between Copenhagen and Malmo, on the opposite coast of Sweden, and on the principal route from Copenhagen to Stockholm, and between Copenhagen, Helsingor, and Helsingborg, touching at many points along the coast, as well as those which, starting from Copenhagen and bound for the southern islands, touch at the island of Moen. In many places the service of ferries is now performed by steamboats. Complete and trustworthy information as to travelling in Denmark by railway, post, or steamer, and on telegraphs and letterpost is found in the ‘ Beiseliste, > which is published fortnightly (20 o.), and in Faber’s * Post og Peisehaandbog for Kongeriget Danmark ’ (1 kr.), which is pub¬ lished quarterly, or as often as may be required. Postage. —The inland postage is the same as in England, viz. 8 ore, or about Id ., for 3 kvint, or £ oz. English, but the double postage carries a letter up to ^ lb. weight. Within town limits of Copenhagen it is only 4 ore. To England the charge is 20 ore for the same weight. There is a book-post to most other countries at a lower rate, subject to the same conditions as the English. To England the charge is 8 ore, or Id., for 2 lod Danish (1 oz. English), and anything made of paper may be sent, even proof-sheets with corrections, but no other writing. Post-cards cost 8 ore to the United Kingdom. Money Orders are granted to an amount of 100 kr., or when payable in Copenhagen, 200 kr. They are forwarded by the postmasters. There is a very complete network of about 2100 miles of telegraph lines extending over the whole country, with submarine cables to Russia, Sweden, Norway, England. The charge for 20 words in Denmark itself is 50 ore, and 30 ore additional for every 10 words; to England, via the new cable from Jutland to England, 20 words cost 4 kr. 32 ore, or about 5s. The inland telegraph is mostly under control of the Government. The standing Army on a war footing consists of 50,522 men, and the Navy of 1270. The country possesses four ironclads, thirty-three men-of- war under steam, with an aggregate of 227 guns, and a mercantile marine of 3326 sailors. 6.—Inns and Hotel Accommodation. The inns in Denmark are of a more primitive character than those in the provincial towns of England. The best hotels of Copenhagen, how¬ ever, make greater pretensions, and, though not yet equal to the best inns in West and Central Europe, will satisfy most travellers. The proprietors, or at any rate some of the servants, speak English; guides and every necessary information are easily obtained. English is also spoken in some of the shops at Copenhagen. The hotels are fairly clean, but the sanitary arrangements are often very defective, even in the capital. Damp sheets are not uncommon, and damp napkins are the rule rather than the exception. The plates are invariably cold. The usual dinner hour is 1 p.m. in the smaller towns, and 4 p.m. in Copenhagen. When dinner is at 1 o’clock, there is supper at 7 p.m., consisting usually of one hot disli and a multitude of cold viands. Smoked salmon is excellent. [6] Introduction : Short Account of Denmark. The beer is good, the wines had and expensive. The most absurd names are given to wines, without rhyme or reason. The commonest vin ordinaire is labelled Margaux , and the vilest Niersteiner, Johannisberg. White port wine is a remarkable compound. Capital cherry cordial is made in Copenhagen by Heering, and may be had at the best grocers’ shops. 7.—Travelling Servants. Avoid taking English servants to Scandinavia, and particularly women, as they would prove a far greater trouble than comfort. Few, if any, of the regular courriers speak Danish or Swedish, and would therefore be also useless. But at Copenhagen, Gothenburg, Stockholm, and Christiania, there are men who speak English, and have been much accustomed to travel with gentlemen, chiefly upon sporting expeditions in Norway and Sweden. These persons drive well, prepare the Forbud papers, cook, and are particularly useful. They are paid about 4s. Qd. a day, besides their lodging and travelling expenses. (See remarks under head of Language in Introductory Information to the Handbook for Norway.) It is advisable to have a written agreement with these men before starting, and in case of not returning to the place where they were engaged, it is well to make a particular arrangement about their return. 8.—Clothes and Luggage. As the majority of travellers pass through Denmark on their way to other countries, the reader is referred to the suggestions on these heads contained in the Handbooks for those countries, merely observing here that all articles of luggage should be waterproof, and the total weight of each person’s baggage should not exceed 50 lbs. All beyond that must be paid for by those who travel by railways abroad, and other public conveyances, except steamers. Clothes.—Two suits are sufficient: a new and strong one, all of woollen material, for every-day use, and another for towns, with a waterproof overcoat. The socks or stockings should be worsted, as cotton soon blisters the feet in walking. Shoes or boots should be double-soled and well-nailed for every-day use. For Ladies.—The travelling dress should be of strong fabric, Scotch spun-silk, or some very light woollen material. Stout boots and a pair of goloshes for wet decks are useful. For wraps, the best are a Scotch plaid, of the largest and coarsest sort. A jacket of sealskin or cloth, and wadded; and a large cloak with sleeves and cape. 9.—-Short Account of Denmark. — Possessions.—Area and Popula¬ tion. Geology and Physical Geography .— Climate. — Season for Travelling. Dominions. Shorn of her former greatness, the Danish realm now only comprises the northern portion of the Cimbrian Peninsula, and a number, in all, of about 200 islands, situated at the entrance of the Baltic; of which Zealand, Fyen, Lolland, and Falster are the largest, besides Introduction: Short Account of Denmark. [7] Bornholm, off the S.E. coast of Sweden. The Faroe Islands, Iceland, Greenland, and the Islands of St. Thomas, St. Croix, and St. John in the West Indies also belong to the Danish Crown, whilst the Danish settlements in East India and in Africa were sold to Great Britain in 1846. The area of Denmark Proper is 14,789, or with the islands in the Baltic, 21,667 English square miles, and the population in 1890 was 2,172,205. Schleswig Holstein contains a population of 1,150,306, and the area is 7275 square miles, including Alsen and the Frisian Islands. Geology and General Aspect.—The scenery of Denmark is generally very flat and monotonous, but its forests of beech and oak are magnifi¬ cent, and some of the views on the E. coast are highly picturesque. With the exception of Bornholm, which in point of geology agrees with southern Sweden, Denmark is a part of the great plain of Northern Europe, and the elevation above the sea nowhere reaches 600 feet. The oldest formation anywhere to be observed is the Upper Cretaceous, and in some places the limestone contributes materially to the beauty of the landscape, particularly at Stevns Klint on the E. coast of Zealand, and on the little island of Moen, where the white cliffs adorn the sea- coast, crowned in the last-mentioned locality with magnificent beech- woods. The cretaceous strata of Denmark offer peculiarly interesting phenomena to the geologist, and have been the subject of a well-known treatise by Sir Charles Lyell. Besides Stevns and Moen, the most interesting locality is Faxo, an ancient coral crag, now far inland, abound¬ ing in rare and peculiar fossils. The limestone is covered with various beds of sand and clay, which mostly present an undulating surface ; and as the country, particularly on the islands, is rich in wood and small lakes, there is no lack of pretty scenery. It is for the greater part a fertile country, where every acre is tilled or otherwise turned to account, where uncultivated commons are un¬ known, feeding its own inhabitants abundantly, and supplying the neighbouring countries to a considerable extent w T ith corn and cattle, dairy and poultry produce. Agriculture is perhaps not yet on an equal point of development with England or Scotland, but is rapidly pro¬ gressing ; and, as the farmers are nearly all freeholders, the bulk of the nation prospers by it: particularly since the Repeal of the English Corn Laws, and the opening up of English markets, a great improvement has been observable. Denmark exports to Great Britain and her Colonies agricultural produce, hides, oil-cake, horses, and cattle, to the annual value of about three millions; and imports from the same sources woollen goods, iron, hardware, and groceries, to the amount of nearly eight millions sterling. The rivers are, of course, but small—the longest is the Gudenaa in North Jutland, 90 miles in length. There is not much fishing in them. Nor is there much natural pasture-ground; the fresh grass fields, hemmed in by rows of elm and oak so familiar to the English eye, are wanting. Hill and dale are covered with interminable corn-fields, now and then interspersed with clover-fields, where the cattle stand tethered, and so entirely have the hedges in many places disappeared, that the different farms are scarcely divided off from each other by a decent ditch. But instead of the hedgerows of stately elms and oaks, and park glades with Denmark. 5 [8] Introduction : Short Account of Denmark. isolated groups of trees, the Danish landscape is enlivened by frequent and often extensive tracts of dense woodland, consisting of beech and oak, with comparatively recent plantations of pine and fir. A century ago these last-named trees existed scarcely outside the private parks and gardens, though the deposits of the peat-bogs prove that in ancient times they were predominant in the forests, but are now planted most exten¬ sively, so that very large tracts of sandy and poor soil are covered with them. This latter change is particularly observed in the less fertile part of the country—the middle and west part of North Jutland —which formerly was well timbered, but where the pernicious influence of the westerly winds and injudicious treatment of the forests have entirely destroyed these. The N.E. coast of Jutland, and indeed of the whole Cimbrian peninsula and its islands, is intersected by “fjords,” long, winding, but mostly narrow inlets from the sea, well wooded and cultivated, and presenting, upon the whole, the same characters as the landscape on the islands. But all along the middle of the peninsula there stretches a tract of heath, sometimes presenting an apparently unbounded plain overgrown with heather and furze, now and then intersected by small winding rivers, bordered by a narrow strip of meadow-land thinly inhabited, but where for the rest not a soul meets the wanderer for half a day, save, perhaps, a lonely shepherd minding a flock of hardy, bony animals, valuable for their fine skin and wool, but whose flesh is as tough as the heather off which they nibble the tenderest shoots. It some parts the sandy soil contains a peculiar hard stratum, several inches thick, two or more feet under ground, called Alii , opposing a formidable, though not invincible, obstacle to the growth of trees. The Ahl is still forming by the con¬ glomeration of the sand under the influence of water containing a little iron, and the cause of it is to be sought in the destruction of the ancient forest which covered these parts. The highest elevation is generally near the east coast, from which it diminishes gradually towards the west, so that many small rivers rising a few miles from the east coast never¬ theless traverse the whole north of the country and fall into the North Sea. Where this desolate tract meets the well-timbered and fertile east coast, it is often broken up into rounded hills, whose sheltered sides are green and wooded, whilst their bases are surrounded by fresh meadows, forming a fine contrast of colour with the rich glow of flowering heather. Further to the west, the landscape undergoes another change; the plain becomes more and more flat and watery, the scanty trees disappear by degrees entirely, till at last a row of abrupt sand-hills rise in the horizon, looking at first like distant mountains, though not higher than 100 ft., so abrupt and peculiar are often their forms, and presenting to the wanderer who ascends them the unbounded view of the North Sea which bathes their base, and in fact called them into existence. This dangerous and treacherous sandy coast stretches for 200 miles from Blaavandshuk, not far from Yarde, to the Skaw, all the way girt by a double or treble row of sandbanks, “ Revler,” where many a good ship has become a prey to the fury of the waves. So dangerous is this coast that there are not less than 14 lifeboat stations and 7 rocket stations established along it. At many places on this coast the sea Introduction : Historical Notice. [ 9 ] is making constant inroads on the land, and this is particularly notice¬ able at the south-west corner of North Jutland and along the coast of Schleswig. Originally the general native features of the Cimbrian peninsula and its islands, from the Elbe to the Skaw, seem to have been quite the same in the whole of its length; while at some remote period, difficult to determine, but it is thought subsequently to the first appearance of mankind in those regions, an extensive subsidence of tbe coast of this part of the North Sea took place. The range of sand-hills which still exist along the coast of North Jutland was broken through in numerous places, and the flat land inside inundated. Fragments of the range of dunes and of ancient cliffs are still standing, protecting a little tract of land on their east side, and forming a row of islands along the whole coast of South Jutland, separated from the main¬ land by a broad expanse of sea, which, however, for the greater part, is dry at low tide. During the long time which has succeeded this change of level and consequent irruption of the sea, extensive marshes have been formed along the coast, which by degrees have been reclaimed by means of dykes, which present the same appearance as the marshes in the eastern counties of England; but during the last 1000 years the sea has again destroyed more than it has added in this way to the mainland and the islands. Along the west coast of the peninsula of Eidersted in Schleswig stands the southernmost part of the ancient range of dunes. That the formation of these islands along the west coast of Schleswig, and of the marshes along the shores of that part of the sea which separates them from the mainland, is subsequent to the first appearance of man iff these parts seems to be rendered evident by the fact that, under the thick layers of marsh-clay, peat-bogs and remains of ancient forests, and in the peat and at the root of the trees, implements of flint, pottery, and other remains of human civilisation have been discovered. The climate of Denmark, upon the whole, is mild; the average tem¬ perature of Copenhagen is 46*8° Fahr., the greatest heat observed in the shade is nearly 94°, the extreme cold nearly - 19° Fahr. It is fairly healthy, but on account of the frequent changes and the preponderance of wind, not particularly agreeable; though scarcely less so than the climate of England. We are, however, quite disinclined to endorse Mr. A. J. C. Hare’s statement that “ those who are worn with a London season will feel as if every breath in the crystal air of Denmark endued them with fresh health and strength.” The Danish climate is favourable to vegetation, which is most luxuriant, and both the flora and the fauna of Denmark are, in proportion to the extent of the country, remarkably rich. The best months for travelling are June, July, and August; May and September are, in favourable years, also very agreeable in Denmark, and the trees often retain their foliage beautifully tinted until the close of October. 10.— Historical Notice. It is aptly observed by Sir John Lubbock, in his work on ‘ Prehistoric Times,’ that Denmark occupies a larger space in history than on the map b 2 Introduction : Historical Notice. [ 10 ] of Europe. Many a larger nation, as he points out, might well envy the Danes the position they hold in science and art; and it is besides undoubtedly true that the ancient times of Denmark, as of Scandinavia generally, were its most splendid period, to which even now the greatest interest attaches. The monuments of pre-historic and earliest historic Denmark are numerous and important. At that time Denmark, properly speaking, comprised Jutland (including South Jutland and Schleswig), the Danish islands, and the southern part of modern Sweden. It is remarkable that the earliest really historical fact in Danish history is a war with Germany, then under the rule of Charlemagne, which ended by a peace concluded in 810, whereby the river Eyder, which separates the modern duchies of Schleswig and Holstein, was declared the frontier between Denmark and Germany, as indeed it remained till 1864, when Denmark was compelled to cede the duchy of Schleswig to Germany. In the war with Charlemagne, the Danish King Gotrik constructed a line of defences reaching from the marches at the lower Eyder to the Baltic, which afterwards was extended into the famous Danevirke , built in the 10th cent, by King Gorins’ Queen Thyra, called Danebod, or the Danes’ joy, and according to tradition an English princess. Christianity was first introduced into Denmark in 827, by Ansgarius , the Apostle of the North, a monk from the convent of New Corvey in Westphalia; but it did not thoroughly subvert the old pagan faith of Scandinavia, which is so well known from the ancient Sagas, till after the conquest of England by Kings Swein and Canute. While scores of thousands of Danes emigrated to the British Islands (see Worsaae’s * Danes and Northmen in England,’ and his later work on the Danish conquest of England and Normandy, a great number of Englishmen settled in Denmark, or were sent there by the king, and these were mainly instrumental in establishing the Church in Denmark, and founding ecclesiastical institutions and buildings there. At the death of Canute, his great empire, comprising Denmark, Norway, England, the south of Scotland, and large territories along the shores of the Baltic, was broken up, and Denmark was for a long time distracted by internal feuds. Amongst the later Danish kings those of the so-called Valdemarian period, Voldemar I, Knud VI., Valdemar II., stand out prominently, by firmly established power at home and splendid warlike exploits abroad. The Danes scarcely participated in the Crusades, but undertook similar expeditions into the Pagan countries to the south and east of the Baltic for the establishment of Christianity there. On one of these a battle was fought near Bevel in Bussia, where the Danish army, sore pressed by a numerous hostile force, was rallied and led to victory by the sudden display of a scarlet banner with a white cross, which had been sent by the Pope, but which, according to the popular tradition, fell down from heaven. This happened in 1219; and since then this flag, under the name of Danebrog, became the Danish national emblem, and super¬ seded, as such, the figure of the raven, which until then was used, and which appears on the numerous coins struck by Danish kings in England. Valdemar 11., called the victorious, on account of his success in war during the first years of his reign, has left a great name on record as a law-giver; and the oldest Danish statute laws, civil and ecclesiastical, date from his reign. He also caused the compilation of a most Introduction: Historical Notice. [ 11 ] interesting account of the royal revenue derived from property in the whole of the kingdom, a kind of Doomsday Book. He died in 1241; and now followed another period of internal discord, coupled with foreign oppression, which only terminated when a nobleman of Jutland, called Niels Ebbesen , by a daring enterprise, slew the most powerful of the foreigners who sucked the life-blood of the people, Count Gerhard of Holstein. The nation rose with energy, led by a third Valdemar , who again established the integrity and independence of the realm. His daughter, Queen Margaret , perhaps the ablest ruler Denmark ever had, succeeded in uniting with the crown of Denmark those of Norway and Sweden, by the union of Calmar of 1397. But at her death the united Scandinavian crowns passed on to Gferman princes distantly related to the ancient royal family of Denmark, who lacked both ability and energy to work out the great political scheme begun by her; and after a troubled existence of about 120 years, the union came to an end by the secession of Sweden. Margaret’s successor was Erih of Pomerania , whose queen, Philippa , daughter of Henry IV. of England, made herself a name in history by her courageous defence of Copenhagen against the fleets of the Hanseatic League in the absence of the king. At the death of his successor, Christoph of Bavaria , the throne of Denmark came to Christian I., the first of the Oldenburg dynasty, which till 1863 reigned in Denmark, and of which a younger branch occupies the throne of Russia. Christian I. acquired the duchy of Holstein. In the reign of Christian III. the Reformation was carried through in Denmark without any serious difficulty. The ablest king of this dynasty was Christian IV. (1588-1648), who not only distinguished himself as an accomplished and gallant warrior, but also by his thrift and economy, and who left lasting monuments in the numerous and splendid buildings which he executed in a style akin to the Elizabethan, and which in Denmark is described as the style of Christian IV. Good specimens are the castles of Rosenborg and Erede- riksborg, and the exchange of Copenhagen. His well-meant exertions for the good of the country were paralysed by the nobility, whose constitutional power was so great that the king was reduced to little more than the president of an aristocratic republic. Under his son Frederik III., the State was brought to the verge of ruin by the want of patriotism of the nobility, owing to which the military resources of the kingdom were so reduced that Charles X. of Sweden found it an easy task to deprive Denmark of her provinces east of the Sound, which have ever since formed part of Sweden. The indignation of the people was now raised to the highest pitch, and the yoke of the nobility was thrown off, never to be reimposed, though only in order to transfer abso¬ lute and hereditary sovereignty to the king and his successors; and for nearly two centuries, 1660-1848, Denmark remained an absolute hereditary monarchy, whilst previously the Crown had been elective. But few of the kings of the Oldenburg dynasty were distinguished by national feeling and interest in Danish language and nationality; their queens and their confidential advisers were mostly Germans; and the Danes, however able, very rarely succeeded in exercising any great influence, or in rising to the highest dignities of the State, in this Introduction : Historical Notice . [ 12 ] respect Frederik V. (1746-1766), amongst others, formed a notable exception ; his first queen, Louisa , was a daughter of George II., and greatly beloved by her subjects. Their son, Christian VII., the husband of the unfortuuate Caroline Mathilde , sister of George III., was from childhood of a sickly constitution, which soon became entirely undermined by a reckless life, and the consequence was a rapidly increasing mental aberration, which necessarily brought the supreme power into the hands of others. For a few years, Struensee, a German physician who had advanced to the highest dignities, governed the country with undoubted good intention, but with a disregard of national feelings and rooted prejudices, which raised against him powerful enemies. He was a follower of Voltaire and the French philosophy of the day, whose ideas he tried to realise in government in a headstrong, yet not really energetic, and at the same time reckless manner. He became the victim of a Court con¬ spiracy; the king was persuaded, or rather frightened, into signing the orders for his deposition and trial before a special court, and he was beheaded in 1772. His fall brought ruin upon the queen, who being accused of an illicit liaison with the fallen Minister, was divorced from the king, and banished. The British Court, who did not question the justice of this measure, gave her a residence at Celle, in Hanover, where she died in 1775. The sad fate of the queen has always secured for her the sympathy of those who know what temptations her position and the conduct and mental state of her husband threw in her way; but the scanty additional light which later times have thrown upon the matter has not served to vindicate her innocence. From the time of Struensee’s fall dates a strong and ever-increasing revival of Danish national feeling, of Danish literature, art, and science; and subsequent kings have, in this respect, stood on the side of their Danish subjects, though perhaps not always with the desirable energy. Towards the close of the century, Danish commerce and shipping rose to a very flourishing condition, thanks to the neutrality observed by Denmark in the great wars which then devastated Europe. This favourable state of things suffered a short interruption by the hostilities commenced by England in 1801, with a view of compelling Denmark to secede from the league of the armed neutrality formed by neutral States for the protection of their commerce. Then the famous battle of the 2nd of April, 1801, was fought in the roadstead of Copenhagen, between a division of the English fleet under Nelson, and the southern part of the “ Danish line of defence,” a number of old ships’ hulks mcored or grounded on the shallow sands of Amager, while the Danish fleet lay unarmed and unequipped in the harbour. The result was that Denmark agreed to withdraw from the neutrality league; but the blood¬ shed and bitter feelings caused by the war might have been spared, for a few days after, the Emperor of Russia died, and the league, of which he was the soul, broke up of its own accord. Of far greater consequence was the second war with England, which began in 1807. The English Government having received information that the Emperor Napoleon had concerted a plan with the Emperor of Russia for invading Denmark, and compelling her to place her fleet at his disposal, resolved to prevent this, by doing herself what the French Introduction: Historical Notice. [ 13 ] Emperor was suspected of intending. A fleet with 20,000 men was despatched to Copenhagen, and a demand was presented for the imme¬ diate surrender of the Danish fleet. Though utterly unprepared for war, of which there was no prospect, the Danish Government returned the only answer which could be expected from a nation not entirely destitute of self-respect. Copenhagen, which was without a garrison and virtually defenceless, was compelled to surrender by a three days’ bombardment, whereby a great part of the city was destroyed; and the fleet was equipped and carried away by the English. Denmark thus became entangled in the great wars of Europe, from which she had nothing to gain, and from which she had hitherto studiously kept aloof; and in 1814 she was compelled to cede Norway to Sweden. The Danish shipping and commerce was destroyed, the state bankrupt, the people very nearly ruined; but, thanks to an economical govern¬ ment, the natural resources of the country, and fortunate circumstances, the losses were repaired; and when Frederik VI., in whose reign—as prince regent and king—these misfortunes happened, died in 1839, the national credit was re-established ; and though greatly reduced in extent, the country, upon the whole, was prospering. Meanwhile, the so-called Schleswig-Holstein agitation developed itself. It was an offshoot of the unity movement in Germany, and had for its object to separate from Denmark and unite with Germany not only the originally German duchy of Holstein, which had been acquired by Christian I. in 1460, but also the originally Danish duchy of Schleswig, which had never in any way been connected with Germany, but of which the southern part, by constant immigration, had become Germanised. The scheme was favoured by the circumstance that the latter duchy enjoyed a somewhat separate position in the Danish state, which had ori¬ ginated in its being a border province. Ever since the Danevirke was constructed near the southern frontier, a Danish army was generally stationed there, mostly under the command of a royal prince, who exercised a certain authority in the adjoining districts, and this led to the pernicious custom of granting the whole or part of the province of South Jutland or Schleswig to junior branches of the royal family as a fief of the Danish crown. Although these vassals often became very troublesome, and even made common cause with the enemies of the realm which they ought to have defended, this was continued for centuries in the interest of the reigning family, but to the detriment of the empire, whose interests did not always coincide as long as the crown was elective, that is till 1660. When at length Frederik IV., in 1720, regained the whole of the duchy for the then hereditary crown, he did not properly consolidate it with the rest of the kingdom in point of administration. This served as a handle for the secessionists of later times, and the intricate ques¬ tions of public law which they raised rendered the controversy on this question, which lasted for 30 years, a perfect monster both as regards bulk and. obscurity, and quite a phenomenon in the political history of the world. The scheme of separating the two duchies from Denmark, and joining them to Germany as a new state, found great favour in Germany, particularly because the Bay of Kiel, where the German nationalists wished to see a German fleet established, lies partly in Holstein and partly in Schleswig territory, and it found strong support Introduction: Historical Notice. [ 14 ] from the Duke of Augustenborg, representative of one of the younger branches of the house of Oldenburg, who hoped to obtain the sovereignty of the new state it was proposed to form, under the name of Schleswig- Holstein. Neither Frederik VI., nor his successor Christian VIII., was able to stem the agitation; and when the French Revolution broke out in 1848, a few weeks after the death of the latter, and was followed by disturbances all over Europe, a rebellion also broke out in Holstein. The Danish army repeatedly worsted the insurgents, and the insurrec¬ tion would not have lasted two months but for the interference of Prussia and other German States. At length Prussia was compelled by the other European Powers to withdraw her troops, and a peace was concluded in Berlin, in 1850; after which, the insurrectionary army, left to its own resources, was defeated at Idsted, July 26, 1850, but no satisfactory settlement was arrived at. The insurrection had destroyed the unity of the state, and the Danish Government had to frame and introduce a new representative constitution for the whole monarchy. Frederik VII., who ascended the throne in 1848, shortly before the outbreak of the rebellion, had granted a very liberal constitution ; but this could not be extended to the whole monarchy. The German Confederation had a voice in the matter as regarded Holstein, and kept the whole question open by refusing its assent to any proposals of the Danish Government, and by abstaining from indicating what would be acceptable. Nothing was therefore settled when Frederik VII. died in November, 1863. He was the last (save an aged childless uncle) of the direct male descendants of Christian I. in the eldest line, and as some doubts had been raised as to the law of succession in the different parts of the monarchy, an arrangement had been made as early as 1852, in antici¬ pation of his death without children, whereby the succession to the whole of the Danish monarchy, including Holstein, had been transferred to Prince Christian of Gliicksburg, belonging to one of the junior branches of the house of Oldenburg. This arrangement had been consented to by all concerned, and embodied in the Treaty of London of 1852, to which all the European Powers acceded, excepting the King of Bavaria and some minor German princes. The Duke of Augustenborg, who had been so active in getting up the insurrection in Holstein, promised for himself and his family not to disturb this arrangement, nor allow any one else to do so; in considera¬ tion of which the Danish Government paid him a handsome indemnity for his estates in Schleswig which had been confiscated. But as soon as Frederik VII. was dead, Prussia and Austria refused to acknowledge the succession of Christian IX. in conformity with the treaty, and the son of the Duke of Augustenborg came forward as a pretender with the sanction of his father, and eventually Prusssian and Austrian troops entered Holstein in the first days of 1864. The two German Powers demanded the instantaneous withdrawal of the so-called Constitution of November 18, 1863, the last attempt of the Danish Government to solve the difficulty which, but for the sudden death of Frederik VII., might very likely have led to a satisfactory result. The Danish Government having ascertained that the concession of this demand Introduction: Historical Notice. [ 15 ] would be followed by fresh demands impossible to fulfil, and that the German Powers intended to force on a war a tout prix, refused, and then began the war of 1864. The Danish army, inferior to its opponents in equipment, numbers, in short, everything except bravery, was stationed at the Danevirke, as a thousand years before in the war against Charlemagne; but the position was too extensive for its numbers, and when on the point of being out¬ flanked, the Danish general retreated to the slightly fortified heights of Dybbol (German Dupptl ), opposite the island of Als, on the east coast of the duchy, thus leaving the country open to the enemy. The German armies laid regular siege with rifled cannon to the entrenchments at Diippel, which were not calculated to withstand operations of that kind. After two months’ seige, they were taken by assault by the Prussians, just as the Danish commander was going to retire to Als and give up a position which had become untenable. An armistice and an European conference in London followed, but the German Powers, well knowing that no other state was willing to go to war for Denmark, refused to abate anything of their demands, namely, the unconditional surrender of Schleswig and Holstein (including the domain of Lauenburg). When hard pressed, they held out a possibility of leaving Denmark in possession of a strip of land in North Schleswig, but reserved to themselves to name their conditions; and as it was well known that these would be such as to render the acceptance of their offer useless, it came to nothing. At last it was proposed to leave the dispute to the decision of an arbiter, but this both refused: Denmark honestly and outright, well knowing that she would gain nothing by thus abandoning her rights; the Germans indirectly, in this form, that they accepted the proposal provided they were not to be bound by the award. Hostilities, which had ceased during the negotiations, recommenced; the Prussians succeeded in effecting a landing on Als, and at last Denmark was obliged to sue for peace. After protracted negotiations, a peace was signed in Vienna, 20th August, 1864, whereby the King of Denmark ceded to Prussia and Austria the three duchies. If the Danes did not receive that material support during the war to which they had thought themselves entitled in the name, not only of treaties, but of common justice, and of the interest which all nations must have in preventing breaches of good faith and the establishment of government by the sword alone, they had the sympathy of the whole civilised world, and this showed itself in two ways. During the war, every kind of contribution for comfort and assistance for the wounded and fallen Danes and their relicts flowed in from all parts of the globe, not least from England, the two English relief committees alone forwarding more than 20,000/.; whilst after the war, a strong mark of sympathy was given by the Emperor of the Erench, who, when two years afterwards Prussia compelled Austria to cede her part in the conquered provinces, obtained a clause in the Peace of Prague, the celebrated Article V., to the effect that the Danish part of Schleswig should be restored to Denmark. As yet this has not been done; but no Dane seems to doubt that it will be done sooner or later ; and the population of Schleswig, from the town of Flensburg, or rather from a line a little south of that town, to the northern frontier, Introduction: Statistics. [ 16 ] omit no opportunity, sucli as election of deputies to the Prussian Chambers or the North German Parliament, to manifest their stout adherence to the mother country, to protest against their separation from Denmark, and to call for the execution of Article V. in the Peace of Prague. The present King of Denmark, Christian IX., belongs to the Gliicks- burg branch of the house of Oldenburg, and descends from King Christian III. He succeeded to the crown of Denmark on the 15th of Nov., 1863, in virtue of the above-mentioned arrangement of 1852, on the extinction of the male line of the old royal branch of the house of Olden¬ burg, in the person of Frederik VII. King Christian IX. was bom on the 8th of April, 1818 ; the Queen of Denmark, Louisa, daughter of the late Landgrave Wilhelm of Hesse, and niece of the Duchess of Cambridge, was bom on the 7th Sept., 1817. Their children are : 1, Frederik, Crown Prince of Denmark, born 3rd June, 1843, married to Louisa, daughter of the late King Charles XV. of Sweden and Norway; 2, Alexandra, Princess of Wales, born 1st Dec., 1844; 3, George I., King of Greece, born 24th Dec., 1845, married to Olga, eldest daughter of Grand Duke Constantine of Russia ; 4, Dagmar (Marie Feodorowna), married to the Czarevitch of Russia, born 26th Nov., 1847; 5, Thyra, born 27th Sept., 1853, and married to the Duke of Cumberland ; 6, Voldemar, born 27th Oct,, 1858. 11.—Statistics. Constitution and Government. —Denmark is an hereditary constitu¬ tional monarchy, and the present constitution, settled on the 28th July, 1866, is very similar to the one granted by Frederik VII. in 1848-49. The powers of the parliament are essentially the same as those possessed by our own. The Rigsdag is a representative and legislative assembly, consisting of two Chambers or Things —the old appellation of such assemblies in the Scandinavian kingdoms and settlements, and still in use in the Isle of Man. (1) The Landsthing of 66 members, twelve of whom are nominated for life by the king, and the rest elected for eight years, seven by the city of Copenhagen, forty-five in the electoral districts, one for Bornholm, and one for the Faroe islands. (2) The Folkething, com¬ posed of about 102 members, or one representative for 16,000 inhabitants, elected for three years. The franchise very nearly approaches manhood suffrage, the districts being equally divided, and every individual of twenty- five years of age who is not a domestic servant, a bankrupt, convicted criminal, or lunatic, being a voter. There is perfect equality between the two houses, but the Folkething has the privilege of first discussing the Budget. The Landsthing is elected by an indirect method of facili¬ tating the representation of minorities. Voters for members of the Landsthing must prove an annual income of 1302. A Constitution was granted to Iceland in 1874, and its parliament meets biennially. It is represented by a Minister in the Danish Rigsdag or Diet. There is a perfect freedom of the press, of association, and of worship, in Denmark. Church and Education. —The Evangelical Lutheran is the State Church, Introduction: Statistics. [ 17 ] and the king must belong to it; but all religious communities have civilly equal rights. Only the offices of judges are now reserved for Christians, whereas Jews were formerly almost confined to the medical profession. There are very few Dissenters in Denmark (not one per cent, of the whole population), a circumstance which perhaps is caused by the more perfect blending together of the different classes of society. The means of education being abundant and cheap, it is not difficult, even to the poorest, to rise by talent and industry ; and many members both of the clergy and of the different learned professions belong originally to the humbler classes of the people. The system of compulsory education has long been in force, and it is very rare to meet a person who cannot read and write. The “ Latin schools,” which prepare for the university, are also almost all public institutions, under direct Government control. As no profits are to be made by them, the school fees are very moderate, and in all of them there is a considerable number of free scholarships. The University of Copenhagen is wealthy, and more than 150 students receive free lodgings and other assistance while preparing for examinations. General education is consequently widely diffused in Denmark, and the Danish nation can boast a proportionately large number of prominent names in science and literature; while a striking proof of the high intel¬ lectual standard to which the country has attaiued is afforded by the liberality shown in providing the splendid, and in some respects unique, Museums of Copenhagen. Trade and Industry. —Denmark is essentially an agricultural country, and corn, cattle, and dairy produce form the staple of exports, of which a large proportion is brought to Great Britain. The export of corn and barley and flour amounted to a value of 1,791,350?. in 1890. The British Admiralty obtains its principal supplies of pork for the fleet from Denmark. The exports of live animals amounted in 1890 to 1,785,000?., including 22,500?. for horses. Danish horses, particularly the so-called Jutland breed, a strong much-enduring animal with arched neck, are much sought for on the Continent. The Danish commercial fleet comprises 3326 vessels, with a tonnage of 270,515, and the quantity of goods exported or imported by sea from or to foreign places amounts to 1,500,000 tons, of which about one-half is carried by Danish vessels. Many vessels are employed in trading from port to port in foreign countries, and return but rarely to their home, as there are more ships owned in Denmark than the trade of the country itself requires. The manufactures are not of general importance, and though some articles are of very good quality, they are mainly intended for home consumption. There are large breweries near Copenhagen. The bulk of the population are agriculturists, and the greater part of the country belongs to freehold farmers possessing farms of from 20 to 120 acres. Formerly most of the farms, at least on the islands, were subjected to a peculiar kind of tenure called “ Fajste,” which secured all land sub¬ jected to it for the class of peasant farmers, as the law practically prevented its absorption into larger holdings. But this anomalous arrangement, which was originally designed to prevent the pauperisation of the yeomanry, but which is not now required for this purpose, and operates—as every kind of fixity of tenure must—prejudicially on the development of agriculture, Introduction : Books. [18] is in process of abolition, and thousands of these “ Faeste ” farms are being; converted into freehold, a fair compensation being given to the landlords. Great efforts are being made to become independent of manual labour/ and large importations of mowing, reaping, thrashing, and other agricultural machinery, have of late years been made from England and America. In Danish home-politics the land question plays a prominent part, and the class of freehold farmers form the strongest political party. It is worthy of notice that in Denmark the agricultural population forms the democracy, whilst the towns, contrary to what is usually the case, form the conservative element. Army and Navy. —The Danish army is based on conscription. Lia¬ bility to service commences at twenty-two, and the conscript serves eight years in the Line and the Reserve, and then belongs to the 2nd Reserve up to thirty-eight. The military and naval organisation is of course only calculated to serve defensive purposes, and every effort is made, that the finances will allow, for attaining the greatest efficiency. The war footing for the army is 50,522, and of the army of reserve 12,993. The navy includes 37 steam-vessels, mounting 227 guns. The public debt amounted in 1889 to 10,574,000?., and the public revenue to 3,104,468?., or very nearly the same as before the late war and the loss of the three duchies, thanks to the increased prosperity of the country; and though unsuc¬ cessful in that struggle which, as Denmark was left to herself, could have but one result, the Danish people still hold their place honourably amongst the nations of Europe. There is also a Reserve Fund of 4,550,320?. 12.—Books. The following is a list of books most likely to be found useful as well as interesting:— Beamish. Discovery of America by the Northmen, in the 10th century. 1 vol. 8vo. 1841. Bremner. Excursions in Denmark, Norway, and Sweden. 2 vols. 8vo. 1840. Clarke, Dr. Travels in various Countries in Europe, &c., &c. Part 3rd. Scandinavia. 2 vols. 4to. 1819 and 1823. Coxe. Travels in Poland, Russia, Sweden, and Denmark. 5 vols. 8vo. 5th edition. 1802. Dunham. History of Denmark, Sweden, and Norway (Part of Dr. Lardner’s Cabinet Cyclopaedia). 3 vols. 12mo. 1839. Elliott. Letters from the North of Europe, or a Journal of Travels in Holland, Denmark, Norway, Sweden, &c. 1 vol. 8vo. 1832. Laing. Denmark and the Duchies. London. 1852. Letters from the Shores of the Baltic. 1 vol. 12mo. 1845. Marryat. Jutland and the Danish Isles. 2 vols. 1860. Stephens, G. Old Northern Runic Monuments. Copenhagen. 1867. Worsaae, J. J. A. The Antiquities of South Jutland, in the Archaeological Journal. 1866. Statistisk-topographisk. Beskrivesse af Kongeriget Danmark. Ved J. P. Trap. 6 vols. Copenhagen. 1879. Containing capital maps, plans, and pictures. For Books on Iceland , see page 101. Introduction: Every-day Sentences for Common TJse. § 13.— Skeleton Tours. Southern Denmark only.—3 weeks in Aug. or Sept. London to Hamburg. Hamburg to Rendsburg, Schleswig, and Flensburg. 3 days to be spent in Flensburg for visiting Sonderburg, Gliicksburg, Dybbbl, &c. Flensburg by way of Holding and Fredericia to Odense. 3 days in Odense to visit places in Fyen. Odense to Copenhagen by Soro, Ringsted, and Roskilde, Helsingor, Frederiksborg, and North Zealand ; the environs of Copenhagen and Moen. Return to England by way of Korsor, Kiel, and Hamburg. Month’s Tour from Copenhagen and hack. 1. Roskilde and Ringsted. 2. Sorb. 3. Vejle. 4. 5, 6. Silkeborg and Excursions. 7. Aarhus. 8. Yiborg. 9. Randers. 10. Mariager, Hobro, Aalborg. 11. Skagen. 12. Excursions, and back to Aalborg. 13. Steamer to Thisted. 14. Lemvig. 15. Bovbjserg and Ringkjobing. 16. Esbjaerg. 17. Fano. 18. Holding. 19. Excursions from Holding. 20. Middelfart and Odense. 21. 22. Svendborg. 23. Faaborg by carriage, and back to Svendborg. 24. Rudkjobing, Nakskov, and Maribo. 25. Stege. 26. Excursions in Moen. 27. Nestved and Kjoge. 28. Stevns Klint. 29. Haarlev and Excursions. 30. Copenhagen. § 14.—Every-day Sentences for Common Use. Good morning! How do you do ? Very well, I thank you. Be so goodf as to take a seat. Sit down for a moment. Where are you going ? Show me the way. Which is the way ? But when shall we see each other again ? Shall we then meet to-night ? In the evening I shall be at home. At what hour ? What is that, in Danish ? What was that you said? May I ask you to... ? May I trouble you to... ? That is quite true. All right. Excuse me; but you are mistaken. God Morgen ! Hvor staar det til ? Jeg takker, meget vel. Vxr scia god at tage Plads or at sidde ned. Sid ned et Oieblik. Hvor skal He X ken ? Vis mig Veien. Hvilken er Veien ? Men naar ses vi nu igien ? Ses vi saa i Aften ? Om Aftenen er jeq kjemme. Hvad Tid ? Hvad kalder man det, paa Hansk ? Hvad var det, De sagte ? Maa jeg bede Dem at . . . ? Maajeg ulejige Dem at ... ? Det er ganske sandt. Ganske rigtigt. De maa undskylde mig; men De tager Feil. f All requests should be commenced with the three words, Veer saa god. % Pronounced Dee, as in English. Introduction: Every-day Sentences for Common Use. [ 20 ] Precisely. Please correct me, when I make mistakes. About six or seven o’clock. Shall I expect you then ? Good-day. Good-bye ! Good evening. I beg pardon. I don’t know. I am very happy to see you. I am much obliged to you. I come from . . . I am travelling to . . . Many thanks. Thank you (literally, thanks shall you have). Come here. Wait a little. Do you speak Danish—English ? I cannot speak Danish. You must speak slowly. Do you understand me ? 5Tes, I understand you very well. I cannot understand you. What o’clock is it ? It is two o’clock. It is half-past one. How much must I pay for each horse ? How much must I give the pos¬ tillion ? I want a saddle-horse. I shall perform the journey on horse¬ back. I have but little luggage. I want a cart for luggage. Where do we change horses ? Where are the horses ? The horses were ordered for one o’clock. Put grease on the wheels. Is there a ferry ? Put me over the river. How much must we pay for the passage ? How much does a place in the vessel cost? I wish to go to . . . in the steamer. When does the steamer go ? Can I have this berth ? Is there no room ? Is there no boat here ? Can you procure me a boat with a couple of rowers ? Netop. Vil De vsere saa god at rette mig, naar jeg begaar Fell. Omtrent Klokken sex eller syv. Maa jeg da vente Dem ? God Dag. Farvel l Adieu! Adje! God Aften. Jeg beder om Forladelse. Jeg ved Hike. Det forndjer mig meget at se Dem. Jeg er Dem meget forbunden. Jeg kommer fra . . . Jeg reiser til . . . Mange Tak. Tak skat De have. Kom hid. Die gran , or Ventet lille. Taler De Dansk—Engelsk ? Jeg kan ikke tale Dansk. De maa tale langsomt. Forstaar De mig ? Ja, jeg forstaar Dem meget vel. Jeg kan ikke forstaa Dem. Hvor mange er Klokken nu ? Klokken er to. Den er lialv to. Hvor meget maa jeg betale for hver Hest ? Hvor meget maa jeg betale til Kud- sken ? Jeg onsker Hest med Sadel. Jeg vil gjore Beisen tilhest. Jeg har kun ubetydeligt Toi. Jeg behover en Kjserre for mit Toi. Hvor skifter man Heste ? Hvor ere Hestene ? Hestene vare bestilte til klokken et. Smore Hiulene. Er der nogen Fserge ? Sset mig over Elven. Hvor meget maa man betale for Over- farten % Hvor meqet koster en Plads pa a Ski- bet ? Jeg onsker at gaa til . . . med Damp- skibet. Hvad Tid gaar Dampskibet ? Kan jeg faa denne Koie ? Findes ingen Plads ? Findes ingen Baad her ? Kan man skajfe mig en Baad et Par Boerkarle ? Introduction : Every-day Sentences for Common Use. [ 21 ] Go ashore. Let the boat drop down. Can I get a horse directly ? Is this the road to . . . ? Can I sleep here to-night ? Can I have a bed here ? Can I see my bed ? Can I get anything to eat ? What kind of meat is there ? Some roast (boiled) chicken—bacon —roast beef — beefsteak — mutton (lamb) chops—veal-cutlets. What can you give us for supper ? Give us whatever you have. How long before it will be ready ? I am hungry : I am thirsty. Give me something to eat and drink. What do you like to have ? Fetch me some wine, bread, and cheese (English, Swiss, Dutch). Have you any white-bread ? Give me a plate, please—a glass— wine-gl ass—tumbler. Let me have a cup of coffee—a basin of milk. It is a quarter to three. Is it possible ? What is that called ? How far is it to ... ? How many miles is it from here to ... ? Is the road good ? Did you ever travel this road before? Are there any good inns upon the road ? Is the road safe? Drive faster—slower. How far is it to . . ? To the right—To the left. How many horses can I have? How long must we wait ? What conveyance can I have to . . . ? When can we have tea ? We shall want breakfast punctually at... What do you say ? Who is there ? Come in. What do you want ? Stand still. Go away. Don’t touch. Let go. I shall walk. Gaa til Land. Lade Baaden slippe ned. Kan jeg faa en Hest strax ? Er dette Veien til . . . ? Kan jeg ligge her inat ? Kan jeg faa Seng her ? Kan jeg faa se min Seng ? Kan jeg faa noget at spise ? Hvad Slags Kjod er der ? Nogle stegt ( kogt ) Kylling — Flesh — Oxesteg — Bceuf — Faare ( Lamme ) coteletter — Kalve-coteletter. Hvad han De give os til Aftens ? Giv os hvad Be liar. Naar han den hlive far dig ? Jeg er sulten : jeg er torstig. Giv mig noget at spise og drihhe. Hvad hehager Be ? Hent mig Vin , Brod og Ost ( engelsh, sveitser, hollandsk). Hav Be Hvede-hrod ? Veer saa god at give mig en Tallerhen et Glas — Vinglas — Olglas. Lade mig faa en Kop Kaffe—en Bolle Melh. Ben er tre hvarteer til tre. Er det muligt ? Hvad haldes dette ? Hvor langt er det til . . . ? Hvor mange Mile er det herfra til . . . ? Er Veien god ? Har Be reist denne Vei for ? Findes gode Gjsestgiversteder paa Veien ? Er Veien sihher ? Kjor liurtigere — sagtere. Hvor langt er det til . . . ? Til Hoire—Til Venstre. Hvor mange Heste han jeg haver da? Hvor Isenge shal vi vente for der homme ? Hvad Slags Befordring han jeg faa til . . . Hvor snart han vi faa Te ? Vi maa have Frohost hestemt Klohhen Hvad siger Be ? Hvem er der ? Kom ind. Hvad onsher Be ? Staa stille. Gaa hort. Bor ihhe. Lad gaa. Jeg shal spadsere. Introduction : Every-day Sentences for Common Use. [ 22 ] Are you ready ? Are our rooms ready ? Is my bed made ? Bring me a waslihand basin. Bring me a towel. Bring me hot water. Send the dirty clothes to the washer¬ woman. Wake me to-morrow early. Wake me at . . . o’clock. Bring me a candle. How far is the church ? What time does the service begin ? Where is the clergyman’s house ? I should like to dine at six—half past five—seven—a quarter to seven—a quarter past eight o’clock—in a quarter of an hour—in half an hour —in three-quarters of an hour. Can we have some (soft-boiled) eggs ? Bring me a bottle of beer. Have you any beer ? Bring me a glass of brandy (hot brandy- and-water). Shut the door, window. Light a fire in the stove. Not too much. Bring me a tub with some cold water. I wish to breakfast. Give me some dinner—supper. Where does the doctor live ? Dry my clothes. Clean my boots. Bring me my shoes. How much do we owe you ? What does this cost ? It is very dear ? Put the horse to. It is far too much. Give me the bill ? What have we to pay ? The bill i3 reasonable. Here is your money. The bill is too much. I will not pay more than 4 crowns. Er De fxrdig ? Ere vore Vdereiser island ? Er min Seng redet ? Bring mig et Vadskefad. Bring mig et Haandklsede. Bring mig hed Vand. Send det smudsede Tdi til Vaskekonen- Vselc mig imorgen tidlig. Vxk mig imorgen Klokken . . . Skaffe mig et Lys. Hvor langt er det til Kirken ? Hvad Tid hegynder Gudstjenesten ? Hvor langt er det til Prxstegaarden ? Jeg vil gjerne spise til Middag Klok¬ ken sex—halv sex — syv—tre Kvar - teer paa syv-^-et kvarteer over otte — om et kvarteer—em en halv Time — om tre kvarteer. Kan vi faa nogle ( blod-kogte ) JEg ? Bring mig et Flask 01. Har De 01 ? Lad mig faa et glas cognac (Toddy). Luk Doren , Vinduet. Gjor lid i Ovnen , or Lxg noget Ovnen. Hike formeget. Bring mig et Vandkar med koldi Vand. Jeg onsker at spise Frokost. Giv mir Middags Mad—Aftens Mad. Hvor hoer Lxgen ? Tor mine Klxder. Bcirst mine Stovler. Bring mig mine Skoe. Hvor meget ere vi Dem skyldige ? Hvad koster det ? Det er meget dyrt ? Spxnde for. Det er alt formeget. Giv mig Begningen ? Hvad har vi at betale ? Begningen er gankse billig. Her ere Pengene. Begningen er for hoi. Jeg vil ikke betale mere end fire Kroner. As a practical introduction to the study of Danish there is no book so useful as the Kev. J. Y. Sargent’s ‘ Grammar of the Dano-Norwegian Language’f—written specially for travellers in Norway, but almost equally serviceable in Denmark. f Clarendon Press, Oxford, 1892. Price 7s. 6 d. HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS IN DENMARK, WITH SCHLESWIG AND HOLSTEIN. PART I. FROM ENGLAND OR GERMANY TO COPENHAGEN. *** The names of places are printed in black only in those Routes where the places are described. LIST OF ROUTE PAGE 1. London to Hamburg, by Steamer direct, or by Rail and Steamer .... 1 2. London to Copenhagen, by Harwich and Esbjserg. Rail and Steamer. 4 3. Hamburg to Copenhagen, by Neumiinster and Kiel. Rail and Steamer .... 5 ROUTES. ROUTE • PAGE 4. Hamburg to Copenhagen, by Liibeck. Rail and Stea¬ mer . 7 5. Rostock to Copenhagen. Steamer and Rail ... 10 6 . Stralsund to Copenhagen, by Malmo. Steamer . . .10 7. Stettin to Copenhagen. Stea¬ mer .II ROUTES. N.B.—The N. German Railways are regulated by Mittel-Europxischcr Zeii, wTiich is 22 min. faster than Berlin time. ROUTE 1. LONDON TO HAMBURG, BY STEAMER DIRECT, OR BY RAIL AND STEAMER. Direct communication by steam is established in the summer months be¬ tween various ports on the East Coast of Great Britain and Copenhagen, or other Danish ports. But as these boats are mostly calculated for goods traffic, the accommodation of passengers is Denmark. not very good, and they cannot be recommended to persons who travel for pleasure, except on the score of cheapness. The steamers from London to St. Petersburg,^! on the con¬ trary, are very good and comfortable vessels, and, as they stop at Copen¬ hagen, they afford to lovers of a sea passage a direct and easy route. f This mark indicates that practical in¬ formation about Hotels, &c., will be found in the Index and Directory. B 2 Route 1 .— Heligoland. But by far the majority of travellers enter Denmark from the South, by Hamburg or Liibeck. The steam¬ ers from London to Hamburg are tolerably good vessels, and as they keep close to the coast, the passage is often very pleasant in summer, and always preferable to that round the Skaw. The quickest modes of reaching Copenhagen from London are, however, by land, via Calais or Flushing, or from Hamburg by the route of Kiel and Korsor, crossing the Baltic between these two places by night (Rte. 3), or by Rendsburg and Flensburg to Korsor, either by steamer between the last two places, or by rail via Fredericia and the island of Fyen (Rte. 17). In summer the distance between London and Copenhagen may be accomplished in 36 hours via Calais or Flushing, Hamburg, Kiel, and Korsor, and by any of the other routes in about 60 hours. In point of actual distance, the most direct way from London to Copen¬ hagen (almost a straight line), is via Harwich and Esbjoerg (Rte. 2). The principal land routes are :— London to Queenborough by train ; thence steamer to Flushing; and train by Breda, Boxtel, Wesel, and Bremen to Hamburg—about 24 lirs. Fare, 4?. 7s. and Si. 3s. London to Harwich by train ; thence steamer to Rotterdam; and train by Emmerich, Wesel, and Bremen to Hamburg—about 25 lirs. Fare, 31. 9s. and 21. 8s. London to Dover ; whence steamer to Calais or Ostend, and train by Ober- hausen and Bremen to Hamburg— about 23 hrs. Fare by Calais, 5 1. 9s. and 4 1. • by Ostend, 4 1. 17s. Gd. and 31. 12 s. For fuller details as to the land routes the traveller is referred to the Handbook for North Germany. The following are the principal routes from England to Hamburg by sea:— London to Hamburgdirect (Kirsten’s line) thrice weekly. Fare, 1st cl., 30s.; 2nd cl., 20s. London to Hamburg, by Southamp¬ ton (Hamburg-American Packet Co.), every Thurs., in 27 hrs. London (Tilbury) to Hamburg direct (Perlbach and Co.), Mon., Wed., and Sat. Fare, 1st cl., 30s.; return (two months), 45s. London to Hamburg, by Harwich (Gen. Steam Nav. Co.). From Liver¬ pool St. Stat. at 8 p.m. every Tues., Thurs., and Sat. Fare, 1st cl., 1 1. 17s. Gd .; 2nd cl., U. 5s. 9 d. Return (tw r o months), 2 1. 16s. 3d. and lZ. 18s. 9 d. Hull to Hamburg (Wilson line), four times a week. Hull to Hamburg (Bailey and Lee- tham line), every Wed. and Sat. Fare, 30s. and 20s. Return, 45s. and 30s. Grimsby to Hamburg, daily except Sun., 6 p.m. Fare, 30s. and 10s. Re¬ turn (3 months), 45s. and 20s. Edinburgh to Hamburg (Leith, Hull, and Hamburg Co.), Tues. and Sat. Fare, 1st cl., 50s.; 2nd cl., 25s. West Hartlepool to Hamburg, every Wed. and Sat. Fare, 30s.; return, 45s. Distance from London to Hamburg, 420 m. In the voyage from London direct the greater part of the first day is con¬ sumed in descending the Thames, and when the steamer is clear of the Goodwdn Sands it is generally dark. The course lies across the North Sea towards the coast of Holland, which is followed at no great distance, unless the wind is N. or N.W. and tolerably strong. When passengers come on deck next morning the German coast, or rather some of the islands which gird that coast, can usually be seen in the distance, while in the middle of the day the island of Heligoland (see IJandboolc for North Germany ) appears to the 1., and late in the afternoon the steamer enters the Elbe. Heligoland (2000) w 7 as taken by the English in 1807, but ceded to Germany in 1890. It is much frequented in summer for sea- 3 Route 1 .— Cuxhaven — Hamburg. bathing, and has important lobster fisheries. Steamer daily to Cuxhaven in 3 hrs.; four times a week to Ham¬ burg in 6 hrs. The coasts at the mouth of the Elbe are flat and marshy, pro¬ tected against the sea by dykes of con¬ siderable strength. To the rt. on entering the river is Cuxhaven (4500),a small harbour belonging to the city of Hamburg, and serving as a pilot station; in the summer also frequented for sea-bath¬ ing. The Castle, seen from the river, is an interesting structure of the 14th cent. In the winter, when the Elbe is frozen, passengers must disembark here, and. proceed to Hamburg by train, passing Stade (10,000), an old- fashioned fortress, where formerly the Stade dues were paid by vessels pass¬ ing up the river. About 30 m. beyond Cuxhaven is the former fortress of Gliickstadt (5700),^ in Holstein, on the rt. bank (Rte. 9), a dull town, whose fortifications were dismantled in 1815. It lies still in the marshland, but beyond it are wooded slopes with numerous villas and well-kept gardens and parks. The steamer passes Al- tona, and lets go her anchor, unless the tide is high enough to allow her to lie alongside the quay at HAMBURG (306,000 ; including Altona and suburbs, 511,000). This city is one of the greatest commercial centres of the world. Originally founded by Charlemagne, it was sub¬ ject to the Dukes of Holstein, but soon became a free city, and founded with Liibeck the Hanseatic League. Ham¬ burg has remained a free republic, though of course its present position as a member of the North German Empire renders it dependent on this political body. Since the great fire in 1842, the whole northern part has been rebuilt, and the part round the Alster basin is equal in beauty to many of the finest cities of Europe. The river Alster traverses the city in several arms, widening at its entrance into the Binnenalster, a square basin sur¬ rounded by good buildings on three sides—Alsterdamm, E., Jungfernstieg, S., and Neue Jungfernstieg, W. The town was formerly fortified with ram¬ parts and moats ; but these are now converted into very pretty promenades, one of which forms the N. side of the Binnenalster, and is traversed by the local Rly. ( Verbindungsbahn ). Be¬ yond this narrow strip of garden opens the larger basin of the Aussen - alster, bordered with Bathing Estab¬ lishments and pretty Villas. E. of these basins lies the modern suburb of St. Georg, and S.W. of the city that of St. Pauli, chiefly frequented by sailors. It is well worth a visit for its cha¬ racteristic scenes, especially on Sun¬ day. Here rises the Stintfang or Elbhohe, from which the *view across the river is very interesting. In the Neue Pferde Markt, § m. N.N.W., is Hagenbeck’s large Collection of Animals on sale, including wild beasts from Africa (Adm., 50 pf.). The Harbour S. of the town, with a quay frontage of 5 m., is crowded with craft from every part of the world. Large Atlantic steamers lie chiefly in the *Sandthor-Haven, a fine oblong basin, nearly § m. long. In the S.W. quarter of the town, on the tramway line to St. Pauli, stands the large St. Michaelis-Kirche (1750- 62), with a spire 430 ft. high, com¬ manding an admirable view (Adm 1 m. 20 pf.). Further E., in the very centre of the city, is the ^Exchange (Borse ), a handsome building, well worth a visit during the hours of business (1-3 f.m. ; adm. 30 pf.). On the first floor is an excellent Reading Room, to which strangers may be in¬ troduced by a member. There is also a Library of 5000 vols. S. of the Exchange rises the lofty spire of the *Nicolai-Kirche (473 ft.), surpassed in height only by the steeples of Ulm and Cologne. The Church was rebuilt in brick and stone after a fire in 1842 by Sir Gilbert Scott, and finished in 1863 at a cost of 175,000Z. It is in the Gothic style of the 13th cent., and contains some good sculpture 4 Route 2 .—London to Copenhagen. by modern artists. (Open daily from 12.30 to 2.30.) About l m. N.E. stands the Johan- neum, containing a good Public Library (daily 10 to 4), and a Museum of Antiquities (Sun. 12 to 2). Close by is the Petri-Kirche, also destroyed in the fire of 1842, and rebuilt in Middle Pointed style. Within are some few relics of the original struc¬ ture. Near the N.E. corner of the Binnen- Alster stands the *Kunst-halle (daily, except Mon., 10 to 5 ; in winter 10 to 4). On the ground-floor are Casts and Engravings. The Picture Gal¬ lery, on the second and third floors, contains works by Jordaens, Ruysdael, A. van de Velde, A. van Ostade, and Teniers, besides a large number of tolerable modern paintings. The Schivabe Collection is remarkable for its numerous pictures by English artists, including examples of Hook, Leslie, Turner, Landseer, Millais, and Leighton. Following the pleasant Anlagen, or Public Promenade, towards the S.E., we soon pass on the rt. the Natural History Museum (daily 11 to 2), with an extensive collection of Shells. Op¬ posite, on the other side of the Rly., is the Industrial Art Museum (daily, ex¬ cept Mon., 10 to 5; in winter 10 to 4), comprising various miscellaneous col¬ lections of considerable interest. N.W. of the Kunst-halle the Anlagen may be followed across the narrow strip of Garden which divides the Binnen-Alster from the Aussen-Alster to the Dammthor, where is a station of the ‘ Verbindungsbahn/ or connecting Rly. between Hamburg and Altona. Beyond it is a well-kept Botanical Garden, and further on the popular ^Zoological Garden (1 fr.), containing a large assortment of animals and an Aquarium. Altona, originally a fishing village called Altenau, from a small river (Au) which here finds its way to the Elbe, separating it from the suburb of St. Pauli, received privileges as a market-town and other advantages in the 17th cent, from the Danish kings, who hoped thus to draw a part of the rich trade of Hamburg to their terri¬ tory. The Hamburgers evidently thought that the scheme was likely to succeed, for they nicknamed it “ All- zu-nah ” (All too near), and this nick¬ name is now the acknowledged name of the city, which has 124,000 Inhab., and is a free port, but contains little to interest the traveller. The Jolian- nisldrche, a Gothic Church completed in 1883, is a good specimen of modern brickwork. Excursions. —The neighbourhood of the two cities is pretty, particularly along the shores of the Elbe, and very pleasant drives may be made towards the E. to (3 m.) Wandsbeck, with a royal palace and a park, or W. to (3 m.) Ottensen, Nienstedten,%Z and (8 m.) Blankenese ,S$ villages on the Elbe with handsome villas and gardens, particularly those of two merchant- kings, Mr. Jenisch of Hamburg and Mr. Baur of Altona, which are open to the public. There is a pretty view across the river from the Sulberg (250 ft.), a hill with a restaurant at Blankenese. All these places may be reached by Rly., but the pleasantest way of visiting Blankenese is to take the steamer, and walk back to (8 m.) Hamburg, along the bank of the river. A carriage may also be hired at Blankenese. ROUTE 2. LONDON TO COPENHAGEN, BY HAR¬ WICH AND ESBJJ3RG. RAIL AND STEAMER. The United Steamboat Co. of Copenhagen run steamers every Mon., Thurs., and Sat., from Parkeston Quay, Harwich, about noon, in con¬ nection with a train which leaves Liverpool St. Stat. at 9.3 a.m. In the reverse direction, the steamer leaves 5 Route 3 .—Hamburg to Copenhagen. Esbjserg on Tues., Thurs., and Sat., according to the state of the tide, after the arrival of the express from Copenhagen. The sea passage oc¬ cupies about 30 hrs. Esbjaerg (5200),a mere fishing village down to 1868, has become a place of some importance owing to its situation on the W. coast of Den¬ mark, in an almost direct line between London and Copenhagen, and shel¬ tered from S.W. winds by the little island of Fano, from which it is separated by a strait only between two and three miles in width. The Harbour , begun in 1868 and finished in 1888, at a cost of 140,000L, ranks as the fourth in the kingdom, offering greater facilities for shipping than any other except those of Copen¬ hagen, Aarhus, and Aalborg. [Steamer S.W. to Nordby (Rte. 14).] Rly. N. to Skjern (Rte. 14). The line towards Copenhagen runs due E. to 11m. Bramminge. Rly. S.to Bibe (Rte. 9). Thence through a flat and monotonous country to 35 m. Lunderskov. Rly. S. to Flensburg (Rte. 8). Thence a little N. of E. to 43 m. Kolding (Rte. 8). Here the Little Belt comes into view on the rt., and the scenery improves. 56 m. Fredericia.^S For the remain¬ der of the journey by steam ferry and rail hence to 295 m. Copenhagen, see Rte. 17. ROUTE 3. HAMBURG TO COPENHAGEN, BY KIEL. Miles. Stations. Routes. Hamburg . 2,4 4 Altona 14 Pinneberg 23 Elmshorn . 8,9 37 Wrist bf . 8 51 Neumunster . 8 16 Ascheberg 4 59 Bordesholm 71 Kiel Travellers from England by either of the land routes (Rte. 2) arrive in Hamburg at the Pariser Bahnhof, which is about ^ m. from the Klos- tertlior Stat. on the Verbindungsbahn, whence the trains start for Kiel via Altona. The most convenient Stat. for persons starting from any hotel in Hamburg is the Dammthor, 3 m. from Altona. Cab to the Stat. at Altona, 1| marks; heavy luggage, 30 pf. each article. Luggage booked through is conveyed by the company, but passengers have to find their own way from station to station. On the return from Denmark luggage enter¬ ing Germany is examined at the Pariser Bahnhof. Altona being a free port, luggage is examined at the station, unless it be booked to Copenhagen or any place in Denmark. 4 m. Altona (Rte. 1). Here the train waits \ hr., and returns from the Stat. for some little distance to¬ wards Hamburg, turning afterwards N.W. to 14 m. Pinneberg,^ a pretty village with woods and water, a favourite summer resort of the Altona bur¬ ghers. 23 m. Elmshorn (8800),2$ a busy town on the Kriickaue. Rly. W. to Gluckstadt on the Elbe (Rte. 9). The train now turns N.E. to f At places marked thus, with the letter 1>, there is a Buffet at the lily . Stat. 6 Route 3 .— Neum,mster — Kiel. 37 m. Wrist. [Ely. W. to Itzehoe .] 51 m. Neumiinster (14,000),$ with considerable cloth manufactures, which, however, have suffered se¬ verely by the separation of the duchy from Denmark. It is an important railway junction. Ely. E. to Asche- berg; S.E. to Oldesloe (Ete. 4); N. to Bendsburg for Schleswig and Jutland (Ete. 8). Our line is continued N. through the poorest part of the duchy, which so recently as 1840 consisted mostly of moors and bogs. Now, however, large tracts are cultivated. 59 m. Bordesholm, on a small lake. In the Abbey Church are monuments to Frederick I. of Denmark (1533) and his queen. Nearer to Kiel, the Eider valley presents pretty lakes with wooded slopes. The river flows N. to within a couple of miles of the Baltic, when it suddenly turns W., and ultimately, after traversing the whole peninsula, falls into the North Sea. 71 m. KIEL (54,000).$ Passengers for Copenhagen should hasten to the Quay, 100 yds. distant, and secure berths in the steamer. An omnibus or porter will follow with their luggage. Kiel, the chief naval arsenal of the German Empire, is situated at the head of the Bay or Fjord of Kiel, on the best and safest anchorage and winter harbour on the whole southern coast of the Baltic. The depth of water suffices for the largest men-of- war, and is continued until quite close to the shore. It is an ancient city, but was never wealthy, or in possession of much commerce, until it became, within the last few years, the shipping centre of a flourishing trade between Germany and Denmark. Since the absorption of Holstein in the Prussian state, Kiel has been converted into a naval station, and the Government has expended large sums of money in the construction of docks, quays, and fortifications. The town is rendered lively and prosperous by the large garrison, and possesses a University, founded in 1665, with about 500 students. Opposite the Stat. is the Thaulow Museum, containing a very interest¬ ing collection of carvings and other objects of art chiefly produced in Schleswig. Open daily (50 c.). In the centre of the town stands the Nicolaikirche (1241), lately restored. Further N.E. rises the Schloss, for¬ merly the Ducal Palace, now the re¬ sidence of Prince Henry of Prussia. It contains also a Museum of Casts. In the Old University is a Museum of Antiquities (open daily to visitors), including several objects of pre¬ historic interest, removed hither from Flensburg. The New University has a Library and a Zoological Museum. The situation of Kiel is exceedingly pretty, and a trip by steamer is much to be recommended. There are also charming drives and walks com¬ manding the lovely scenery of the bay in every direction. Diistern- brook $ is I m. N. of the Stat. on the W. shore of the bay, situated in a fine beech-wood, with view over the sea. 2 m. further N. is Holtenau , where the Eider Canal, which here forms the frontier between Holstein and Schleswig, and connects the river Eider and. thus the North Sea with the Baltic, opens into the bay. This canal was made by the Danish Government in the 18th cent., and is still of importance for the local traffic; but as the passage, owing to the tortuous course of the Eider, is often very tedious, and the depth sufficient only for moderate-sized ships, it has never supplied the want of a short cut through the peninsula to accommodate the great shipping traffic to and from the Baltic. A scheme is now on foot, under the auspices of the Prussian Government, for constructing a canal which should fulfil this condition between the mouth of the Elbe and the Baltic. From Holtenau there is a pretty walk along the canal W. to 7 Route 4 .—Hamburg to Copenhagen. 2 m. Knoop,s£ a manor with park. 2 m. N.E. of Holtenau is Friedrichs- ort (see below), whence steamers ply several times a day to Kiel. On the E. side of the harbour is the Wilhelminenhdhe (fine view), and further on, about a mile from the Stat., the large Docks of the German Navy (Adm. at 9 or 3, 50 pf. ; apply for card at the office of the director). On the other side of the docks is the fishing village of Ellerbek where sprats are largely caught and smoked. I m. further is Neumiihlen.s,$ with a huge mill and extensive shipbuild¬ ing-yards. The steamer goes on to Moltenort and Ldboe (see below). Steamer to Korsor in 6 hrs. at 1.30 a.m. and 10.50 a.m. (fare 11 m. 20 pf., return ticket, 15 m. 20 pf.). The boats are very good and comfortable for their size, and there is an excellent Restaurant on board. The sleeping- accommodation is fair. The entrance of the harbour is commanded on the W. by the strong fortress of Friedrichsort, exclusively a military and naval station. On the E. side are the formidable batteries of Moltenort and Laboe Other forti¬ fications stud the shores of the bay seawards. Soon the Baltic is reached, the course kept by the steamer being nearly due N., and. the coast of Ger¬ many disappearing. From Korsor the journey to Copenhagen is con¬ tinued by exp. train in 2^- hrs. (fare, 1st class, 8 kr., 2nd, G kr.). Twice a week (Tues. and Fri. at G p.m.) there are direct steamers from Kiel to Copenhagen, in 14 hrs. (fare, II m. 75 pf., return tickets, 18 m. 50 pf.), a pleasant sail in fine weather. Through tickets from Hamburg to Copenhagen by Kiel and Korsor, 1st cl., 30 m. 90Jpf., 2nd cl., 25 m. 90 pf. Return, available for ten days, 44 m. 10 pf., and 37 m. 40 pf. Rly. N.N.W. from Kiel to (49 m.) Flensburq, passing (16 m.) Eckern- forde (Rte. 8). ROUTE 4. HAMBURG TO COPENHAGEN, BY LUBECK. Miles. Stations. Route?, Hamburg . . 2,3 13 Ahrensburg 25 Oldesloe 18 Segeberg 28 Neumiinster . 3,8 35 Niendorf 40 Lubeck The train starts from the Lubecker Bahnhof, at the E. end of the town, and runs N.E. to 25 m. Oldesloc, a pleasant little town with saline Baths. Rly. S. to Buch&n, N.N.W. to Neumiinster, passing Sege- berg, where is a 12th cent. Church. 40 m. Lubeck.^s A full description of this remarkable old town is found in the Handbook for North Germany , but as it well deserves a day’s explo¬ ration by travellers en route for Denmark, we shall briefly notice the principal objects of interest. LUBECK (56,000), the principal town of the Hanseatic League, has pre¬ served the aspect and character of antiquity to a high degree. The gabled houses, the curious ancient gateways, the peculiar Gothic style of the churches and public buildings, which are all of red and black bricks, give it a very picturesque exterior; while the habits of the people, their extreme cleanliness, the arrangement of the houses, with large vestibules serving all manner of purposes, re¬ mind us more of Holland than pf any other country. The ramparts are of modern origin, and now con¬ verted into pretty walks; the ancient walls are almost entirely destroyed, but the *Holstenthor by which the town is entered from the station, and the still more curious Burgihor , both of the 15th cent., aie yet pre¬ served. The churches are of con¬ siderable size, and have enormous 8 Route 4:.—Lubeck: Cathedral . towers and spires; but the ground being rather unfavourable for such huge structures, these latter are con¬ siderably often out of the perpen¬ dicular. Proceeding E. through the Holsten- Strasse we soon reach the Market- Place, in which stands the *Rathhaus, a very interesting Gothic structure of 1442, with Renaissance additions. The Kriegsstube, and other chambers within the building, are worth in¬ spection (50 pf.). To the N. rises the Church of *St. Mary (open from 10 till 1 ; sacristan lives opposite, 8, Meng- strasse). This exceedingly lofty build¬ ing (1276-1310) has a nave and choir 112 yds. long, and 127 ft. in height, and spires 344 ft. high. To the 1. of the S. door is a fine brass of 1518. Further W. the *Brief- capelle, a groined Chapel where in¬ dulgences were once sold. It has a good altarpiece of 1518. The Font dates from 1337. Under the organ- gallery is a Chapel with a bronze screen and well-carved stalls ; it con¬ tains on the 1. an early painting of the Mass of St. Gregory ; on the rt., St. Olaf. In a Chapel to the 1. is a Dance of Death, painted in 1463, but transferred to canvas in 1701. The next Chapel has an Entombment by Overbeck (1845). In the Sacristy are some good carvings in gilded wood, chiefly Passion Scenes (early 15th cent.). Further on, against a pillar, hangs a beautiful winged pic¬ ture of the ^Nativity, Adoration, and Flight into Egypt, attributed to Jan Mostaert (1518). On the outside, Adam and Eve. Then follows an altarpiece with the Crucifixion and Death of the Virgin (1494). Behind ihe high altar is a remarkable Clock (1565), with an astronomical dial. When it strikes 12, the Emperor and seven Electors of the German Empire issue from a door, and pass in proces¬ sion before the Saviour. To the rt. and 1. are four Passion Scenes in stone relief (1498). In a Chapel E. of the Choir are three fine *stained glass windows (early 15th cent.), and the Entry of Christ into Jerusalem, by Overbeck (1824). The Trinity, with other subjects on the wings, was copied from Albert Diirer by B. van Orley. The beautiful restored taber¬ nacle at the high altar dates from 1479. There are some good paintings on the Choir Screen (1517). Besides these works of art, the Church contains some admirable brasses, wood-carvings, and chapel- screens. There are three organs; the largest, at the W. end, stands in a rich late Gothic gallery. S.W. of the market is the restored Church of St. Peter (sacristan, 29, Schmiede Strasse), with double aisles (early 14th cent.). It contains a fine *brass of 1356, another of the 15th cent., and some excellent wood- carvings. Nearly \ m. further S. is the ^Cathedral (sacristan, 3, Hartengrube ; usually in the Church from 9 to 11). It was founded in 1173; the nave and transepts were rebuilt in 1276; the remainder dates from 1335. The beautiful early 13th cent. *N. Porch has some delicate carvings, restored in 1887. The towers are 394 ft. high. At the W. end is a font of 1455. Round the pulpit is a gracefully wrought railing of 1522. In the Choir is the *recumbent effigy in bronze of Bp. Bockholt (1341), the founder. There is a good brass of 1561 in the S. aisle; and in a Chapel on the N. side a fine 14th cent. Tomb. In another Chapel is a very remark¬ able ^triptych by Memling (1491)— his reputed masterpiece, with more than 200 figures. In the centre, the Cruci¬ fixion ; around it, various Passion Scenes; on the wings, SS. Blaise, John Bapt., Jerome, and Giles; at the back, the Annunciation in grisaille. Close to the Cathedral, nearer the canal, are some remains of a 12th cent. Cloister and some other buildings of early date, now forming part of a Museum. Following the quay for £ m., and then turning left, we reach the iEgidien- kirche (14th cent.), which contains an Route 4 .—Liibeck : Travemiinde. 9 elaborate organ-case and an old font. The iEgidienstrasse leads hence N.W. into the Konigsstrasse, following which to the rt. for J m. we pass on the rt. the *Church of St. Catharine, a lofty and elegant building of 14th cent. date. At the E. end is a fine *brass of 1474. The Church is now disused, and the Choir has been turned into a *Museum of Ecclesiastical An¬ tiquities (Sun. 11 to 1; the door¬ keeper lives at No. 33, Breite Strasse). Here are many admirably carved altar- pieces, with other sculptures in wood and stone, some good choir-stalls, and a few paintings. The Convent buildings to the S. contain a Public Library (daily 11 to 2), with upwards of 100,000 vols., and 800 MSS. A little further N. is the Jacobi- kirche, which contains a fine 15th cent. *Altarpiece of the Crucifixion in relief, with the donor’s family on the wings. Opposite the Church is the Schiffergesellschaft , an old 'guild house, and close by the House of the Kaufleute-Companie, with some admir¬ able wood-carvings. E. of the Church is the Hospital of the Holy Ghost , with a fine Early Gothic Chapel. A broad street leads hence N. in 5 min. to the *Burgthor, a lofty and well-preserved town gate of 1444. Steamers to Copenhagen daily at 5.15 p.m., 154 m. in 14 hrs. Fare, 18 marks. Return, 27 marks. There are also steamers from Liibeck to Christiania, .Stockholm, and St. Pe¬ tersburg about twice weekly. The course of the river is very winding, and although deep enough for large vessels, it is very narrow. The steam¬ boat cannot therefore proceed at full speed. The banks offer nothing of interest, but the spires of Liibeck are constantly showing themselves over the trees and houses, now in one, now in another direction, owing to the tortuous course of the river. At the mouth of the Trave, where is a sort of brackish lake called Pollnitzer Wyck, lies Travemiinde,a sea-bathing place, , which was the port of Liibeck before the deepening of the river. Steamer and Rly. several times daily to (13 m.) Liibeck. The Rly. passes (5 m.) Waldhusen, 1 m. from which is a large barrow called the Hun's Grave. Shortly after passing the little town, the lighthouse is seen on the left, and now the steamer makes across the Baltic in a straight line N.E. for the Sound. To the left and right the coasts of Holstein and Meck¬ lenburg, presenting wooded hills with large country houses, stretch away and disappear by degrees, showing after nightfall the lighthouses at Burg on the island of Femern to the left, and Dagerort in Mecklenburg to the right. In the early morning the steamer passes the island of Moen , with its white cliffs (Rte. 26), and then steers due N., entering the Sound, and leaving the south-eastern ex¬ tremity of Sweden to the right. For a short while the sea is often a little rough here, owing to the narrowness of the strait through which the waters of the Baltic seek an outlet, but there is nothing to disturb toler¬ ably good sailors. The headland on the coast of Zealand to the left is the Stevns Klint (Rte. 26), and presents white cliffs with regular strata of black flint, but being without trees they are not so fine as the cliffs of Moen. On the top of the cliff, in dangerous proximity to the edge, stands Hoierup Church, built in 1357 by a thankful mariner in memory of his escape from a watery grave. Further on the steamer enters the Drogden, a rather narrow channel of deep water, through which almost all the ships which enter or leave the Baltic must pass. The distance between the low - lying island of Amager to the left and the Swedish coast is more than 20 miles; but there is a submarine chain of lime¬ stone rocks connecting the two coasts, forming in one place the island of Saltholm, which scarcely shows above the water’s edge, and in other places 10 Route 6 .—Stralsund to Copenhagen. shallow banks separated by deep channels. Of these latter Drogden is the most favourable for naviga¬ tion, and the ships crowd in here as closely as the vehicles on a much- frequented road; most of them anchor rather than enter this passage by night. Presently the numerous ships in the roadstead of Copenhagen, the forts defending the entrance to the harbour, and the towers and spires of the town are plainly distinguish¬ able to the left, and rounding the island-battery of Tre Kroner, the steamer soon enters the harbour, and lands her passengers at the custom¬ house pier. Copenhagen (Rte. 17). ROUTE 5. ROSTOCK TO COPENHAGEN. The shortest way from Berlin to Copenhagen. Exp. from Berlin to (142 m.) Warnemunde in 4J hrs.; steamer to Gjedser in 2J hrs.; train to Copenhagen in 4 hrs. Through ticket, 1st class, 40 marks; 2nd class, 31 marks. Return (10 days), 58 m. 40 pf. and 45 m. 50 pf. Rostock to Copenhagen, 21 and 17 marks. Copen¬ hagen to Berlin, 35 kr. 50 6 ., and 27 kr. 50 o.; to Rostock, 18 kr. 40 6 . and 14 kr. GO 6. ROSTOCK (40,000),$$ a town of the Hanseatic League, resembles Liibeck in its picturesque appearance and the medieval character of its red brick buildings. It carries on a consider¬ able trade in coal, grain, and timber, lying six miles from the Baltic on the Warnow. It was the birthplace of Bliicher (1742-1819). The Marienkirche (1398-1472), in Northern Gothic style, contains nu¬ merous monuments, and a remarkable brass font with reliefs of the 12 th cent. Other Churches of interest are St. Peter's, with a lofty spire (430 ft.), St. James’, and St. Nicholas’; all of the 15th cent., restored. In the Bliicher Platz, W. of the Marienkirche, and near St. James’, is a bronze Statue of Bliicher. Facing it stands the handsome University, founded in 1419, rebuilt in 1870. It contains a Library of 150,000 vols. Kepler the astronomer was appointed professor here in 1629 by Wallen¬ stein. A tower near the S. wall of the town was erected in 1618 by Tycho Brahe as an observatory. The old ramparts have been laid out in agree¬ able Promenades. Rly. to (8 m.) Warnemunde,S$ a rising sea-port on the Baltic, and a popular resort for summer bathing. Steamer thence to Gjedser, on the island of Falster (Rte. 28). Rly. N. through a flat and unattractive country to (14 m.) Nyhjobing and (14 m.) Ore - hoved. Thence steamer in 20 min. to the small island of Masnedo, where the train is resumed, the Rly. passing over a fine bridge to Masnedsund, a sea-port in S. Zea¬ land. Thence by W. Zealand line direct to (59 m.) Boshilde (Rte. 25) and (20 m.) Copenhagen (Rte. 20). ROUTE 6 . STRALSUND TO COPENHAGEN. During the summer months a steamer runs daily between Stralsund and Mahno in hrs. (Fares, 18 and 13§ marks. Return tickets, available for the entire season, 30 and 22| marks.) Another steamer plies be¬ tween Mahno and Copenhagen in 1 ^ hr. (Fare, 1J kr.) Stralsund (28,000),8$ an interesting town with lofty gabled houses, old towers, and churches, is built in the form of a triangle, each side of which 11 Route 7.— Stettin is washed by water, and connected with the mainland by a narrow dam or causeway. The tower of the large Marienkirche (1473), \ m. from the Stat., affords the best view of the peculiar situation of the town. § m. N. is the Alte Markt, in which stands the handsome Ratlihaus, dating from the 13th cent., with restored 15th cent, front. On the upper floor is an important *Museum of Antiquities (daily, May to Sept., 11-1). Close by to the E. rises the Nicolaikirche , a fine 14th cent, building, with carved wooden altarpiece, several monu¬ ments, and a good brass of 1357. From the E. end the Jacobi Strasse leads S. to the Jacobikirche , with an elaborate W. tower, a carved altar- piece, and an old font. Rugen, the largest of the German islands (46,000), lies immediately opposite to Stralsund, and is reached in 10 min. by ferry. See Handbook for Northern Germany. Malmo (48,000) : 8^ a busy port at the S. side of the Lomma Bugt, or Bay of Lomma, lies about 16 m. E. of Copenhagen. A few minutes S. of the landing-place and adjacent Ely. Stat. is the Stor Torg (Great Market), with its handsome *Toivn Hall of 1546, restored in 1869. A little to the E. rises the fine Church of St. Peter (1319), also restored. Both these edifices are of brick. On the W. side of the town is the Kung Oskars Park, with pleasant Pro¬ menades ; and beyond it the interest¬ ing Malmohus (1537), a fortress in which Bothwell was imprisoned from 1573 to 1578. Steamer five times a day to Copenhagen (Rte. 20). ROUTE 7. STETTIN TO COPENHAGEN. In June, July, and August, steamers run twice weekly between Stettin to Copenhagen. and Copenhagen in 15 hrs. Fares, 18 and 13| marks. Return tickets, 30 and 18 marks. During the rest of the year, once weekly. Berlin is easily reached by good trains from (83 m.) Stettin. STETTIN (100,000),$ on the Oder, is the capital of Pomerania, and a flourishing commercial port. Most of the public buildings are modern. There is a good view from the Kirch Platz, a planted square close to the Rly. Stat. The Lindenstrasse leads hence N.N.E. to the handsome Berliner Thor, beyond which in the same direction is the Konigs Platz, with a bronze copy of a Statue of Frederick the Great, by Schadow (1793). E. of it is the Konigs Thor. Passing the new Theatre on the left, and walking S.E., we soon reach the Schloss (1503-77), formerly the Palace of the Dukes of Pomerania. The building has been much altered, and is now occupied by public offices. There is also a small Collection of local antiquities, and a fine view from the tower. In the Schloss Kirche are tombs of the Dukes of Pomerania. The Church of St. James dates from the 13th cent,, and that of St. Peter from the 12th; but both have been considerably modernized. The landing-place of the steamers is on the rt. bank of the river, near the lowest bridge. A boat leaves for Copenhagen every day in summer except Tliurs. and Sun. The voyage is without interest. Stubben-hammer on the island of Rugen is passed in the evening, and on the following morning the boat passes between Amager (left) and Saltholm (rt.), and soon after anchors in the harbour of Copenhagen. For Stettin and the Isle of Rugen, see Handbook for N. Germany. ( 12 ) PART II. THROUGH SCHLESWIG-HOLSTEIN TO JUTLAND. LIST OF ROUTES. ROUTE PAGE 8 . Hamburg to Skagen, by Elms- horn, Neumiinster, Schles¬ wig, Flensburg, Fredericia, Horsens, Skauderborg, Aar¬ hus, Langaa, Banders, Aal¬ borg, and Frederikshavn. Kail.12 9. Hamburg to Bramminge, by Elmshorn, Gliickstadt, Itze- hoe, Heide, Husum, Tonder, and Ribe. Rail ... 26 10. Husum to the Frisian Islands. Steamer.28 11. Flensburg to the Island of ROUTE PAGE Aals. Steamer and Car¬ riage-road .29 12. Skanderborg to Skjern, by Silkeborg. Rail ... 31 13. Aarhus to Grenaa, by Ryom- gaard. Rail.32 14. Langaa to Lunderskov, by Viborg, Skive, Struer, Yemb, Skjern, Esbjerg, and Bram¬ minge. Rail .... 35 15. Struer to Tbisted. Rail . . 38 16. Aalborg to Tliisted, by the Aggersund. Steamer or Carriage-road .... 39 ROUTES. ROUTE 8. HAMBURG TO SKAGEN. Miles. Stations. Routes. Hamburg . . 17 4 Altona 14 Pinneberg 23 Elmshorn . . 9 38 Wrist 15 Itzehoe . . 9 51 Neumiinster . . 3 39 Heide . . . 9 60 Nortorf 72 Rendsburg 88 Schleswig 2 Schleswig (Altstadt) 15 Siiderbrarup 95 Jiibek 17 Husum... 9 Miles. Stations. Routes. 109 Nordschleswige Weiche 23 Lindholm . . 9 112 Flensburg 128 Tingleff 16 Tondern . 9 138 Rothenkrug 4 Apenrade 151 Woyens 8 Hadersleben 156 Sommerstedt 163 Vamdrup 167 Lunderskov 171 Holding 187 Fredericia . . 17 199 Munkebjerg 203 Veile 223 Horsens 1 Bygholm 13 Uldum Route 8 .— Nortorf — Rendsburg. Miles. Stations. 18 Torring Horsens 10 Hornsyld 12 Gramrode 14 Barrit 16 Vesterby 19 Juelsminde Routes. 235 Hylke 241 Skanderborg . 12 256 Aarhus . 8 Maarslet 17 Odder 23 Hou . 13 260 Brabrand 270 Hinnerup 282 Laurberg 284 Langaa . . 14 292 Banders 9 Hald 25 Hadsund . 13 297 Bjerregrav 312 Hobro 322 Store Arden 326 Skjorping 331 Stovring 343 Aalborg 345 Norre Sundby 360 Bronderslev 367 Vraa 373 Hjorring 385 Tolne 395 Frederikshavn 400 Rimmen 407 Aalbaek 420 Skagen N.B.—The traveller intending to stop at Schleswig should take his ticket and register his luggage to the Friedrichsberg Stat. of that town (see below). For the Rly. journey as far as 51 m. Neumiinster Junct.,E$ see Rte. 3. Here the. train for Kiel branches off N.N.E. 60 m. Nortorf (1800). The country i s monotonous as far as 72 m. Rendsburg (12 000),where the Rly. crosses the Eider , the old boundary between Holstein and Schleswig. The river is here divided 13 into several branches, and is shallow. A castle was built here early in the Middle Ages, and a town soon sprung up under its protection. Afterwards the whole place was converted into a fortress, according to Vauban’s prin¬ ciples, with ramparts and moats, and protected to a great extent by inun¬ dations. During the Schleswig-Hol¬ stein rebellion, Rendsburg served as the principal seat of the insurgents, and after the suppression of the move¬ ment the fortifications were mostly thrown down. Part of the Eider above Rendsburg has been converted into a canal, with several locks, and connected with the Baltic by the Eider Canal, which opens into the bay of Kiel at Holtenau. The last sluice towards the W. stands in Rendsburg itself. The Duchy of Schleswig, until 1864 a part of Denmark, has an extent of about 3300 Eng. sq. miles, with about 420,000 inhabitants. The Cimbrian peninsula, of which the duchy forms part, consists of an elevated plain, with a very gentle fall to the W., but ending abruptly on the E. coast. The plain is upon the whole sandy, and has much standing water, presenting a most uninteresting aspect, while the E. coast is fertile and well wooded. The Rly. has for economical reasons been laid on the table-land, and the towns on the E. coast, which are situated at the foot of the hills, mostly at the head of deep inlets from the sea, are connected with the trunk line by means of short branches. Although, therefore, al¬ most every one of the towns along the E. coast is individually prettily situated, the Rly. journey itself is unattractive. On the rt., soon after leaving Rendsburg, are seen the Hiittener Berge, a range of hills which, though only 400 ft. high, look very imposing, because they rise out of a dead plain. In ancient times they were covered by an extensive forest, of which but little remains; but the landscape is here and there very pretty, and may 14 J Route 8.— Schleswig: Cathedral. be visited during a drive from Schles¬ wig. There are two Rly. Stations at Schleswig, connected by a local Rly., which stops at various points in the long straggling town, and proceeds N.E. to Silderbrarup. 88 m. Schleswig, & Friedrichs- berg Stat. (15,000), at the head of the Slie (Germ. Sehlei ), a remarkable inlet from the Baltic, 25 m. long, nar¬ row and winding. Though really situated on the sea, Schleswig is practically an inland town without trade or shipping, subsisting mainly as the seat of several government authorities, courts of justice, &c. Tramway to the central part of the town, which is quite a mile from the Stat., passing on the 1. near the Schloss Gottorp, a plain whitewashed building, originally built for an epis¬ copal residence in the 12th cent., but the present structure dates from the 16th, and even later. It served as a residence for the Dukes of Holstein Gottorp, who possessed (1526-1720) a part of Schleswig as vassals of the King of Denmark, besides a part of Holstein, which they held in fief of the Emp. of Germany. In 1720 Frederik IV. of Denmark took pos¬ session of their territory in Schleswig, and in 1773, when the ducal family had ascended the throne of Russia, the Danish Government acquired their possession in Holstein in exchange for the duchy of Oldenburg. The rooms of the Castle, now used for public offices, are mostly vaulted. The Chapel is very fine, and has a handsome altar of oak with orna¬ ments of ebony and massive silver. 10 min. beyond the H. Stadt Ham¬ burg, on the 1., stands the Church of St. Michael, originally Romanesque, but almost entirely rebuilt in 1876. It dates, however, from the time of the Crusades. 5 min. further, on the rt., is the Ca¬ thedral, rebuilt in the 15th cent, after a fire. On this spot the first church in Denmark was erected in 827. It was renewed several times, and of these earlier buildings fragments remain, of which the oldest date from the 11th cent. There are some good architec¬ tural details, but the principal object of interest is the *Altarpiece of carved oak, formerly in the monastery at Bordesholm in Holstein. The artist was Hans Briiggemann of Husum (1521). The principal subject is the Passion, and the figures are executed with great ability. Among several interesting tombs is a beautiful marble monument by an Italian sculptor, Caprara, over the sepulchre of King Frederik I. of Denmark and Norway (1533), his Queen, and one of the Royal Princes. The chancel also con¬ tains a metal font of 1480, a very fine episcopal throne, and 36 well-carved oak stalls in Gothic style. The burial chapel of the Dukes of Holstein- Gottorp, who resided in Schleswig, is also very handsome. The Church and cloisters were under extensive restoration in 1892. 5 m. further E., at the extreme end of the town, is the picturesque Con¬ vent of St. John, with a Chapel, which is worth a visit. The building pre¬ sents a mixture of round and pointed The Convent dates from 1250. It is now an Almshouse for twelve poor unmarried ladies of the nobility. Schleswig is intimately connected with the Danish history of the Middle Ages. Its original name was Hedeby, but in the 11th cent, it was also called Sliasvic; it is mentioned as early as the 9th cent, as a great emporium of trade belonging to the Danes. It was the capital of the Danish King Gotrik, who fought against Charlemagne, and was long the most important town in Denmark. Here the first Christian church was built, and the first bishop established. The town was strongly fortified, and it served as headquarters for the Danish army, which in those days was permanently placed at The Lanewerk, which once passed close to the town, and was one of the most remarkable historical monu¬ ments of the North. At the time when the Danewerk was first constructed, the lower Route 8 .—Schleswig : The Danewerk. course of the Eider, as well as its tributaries the Treen and the Sorg, were surrounded by marshlands and watery meadows impassable for an army. There intervened between these tracts and the innermost part of the Slie only a space of a few miles, which consequently alone had to be defended against an enemy advancing from the south, and the kings and rulers of Denmark there¬ fore at a very early, even pre-historic time, attempted to fortify this posi¬ tion. The earliest work of which history speaks is the “ Ivurgrav,” S. of the Danewerk, of which now only vestiges remain. This was con¬ structed against the threatened in¬ vasion of Charlemagne. Queen Thyra raised far more extensive works to the N. of this, stretching from Bustorf, just outside Schleswig, to (9 m.) Hollingstedt, on the Treen, and flanked by the fortifications of the Oldenborg, and the Biesendamm , or Giant’s Dyke. The whole nation worked at it for three years, and it consisted of a rampart 30 to 40 feet high, generally with deep moats, which was rendered less accessible by an enormous palisading of oak timber. Behind this dyke King Harold Blaatand, with a united Danish and Norwegian army, braved for a long time the German Emperor Otho; but at length the enemy succeeded in setting fire to the palisading, and thus got the upper hand. Of this fire the vestiges are still to be seen. Harold’s son, King Svein, restored the Danewerk and finished it with a wall of hewn stones. Again, about the year 1180, King Valdemar forti¬ fied the Danewerk by a wall 2 miles long, 6 feet thick, and 1G-20 feet high, of burnt brick, of which the lower part is still standing, though hidden by the earth which has fallen down over it. A century later the Danish rulers again fortified and improved the Danewerk, but after that time it was neglected. After the acquisition of Holstein by the Danish kings in 1460, there seemed less reason for keeping it in repair, the frontier of 15 the king’s possessions being moved so much farther south. In the Battle of Schleswig, fought on Easter Day, 1848, in which the Prussians were victorious, the Danish army was placed near the Danewerk, but very little use was made of it. In 1850, the Danish army again occu¬ pied it, and in the years 1861-1864 it was regularly fortified afresh, and the Danish army took its stand here at the beginning of the last war. But the position was too ex¬ tensive for the number of defenders. The low marshlands, which in ancient times were naturally impassable, had again been rendered so by artificial inundations; but the frost made a bridge over the water, and laid the right flank of the position open to the enemy. The Slie, which ought to have covered the left wing of the Danish army, could, for the same reason, not be depended upon. Though generally too wide to be bridged under the fire of a defend¬ ing force, it has two very narrow places, at Missunde and at Amis. Both were fortified, and Missunde was attacked in vain, as it had been in 1850 ; but the invading force was so numerous that, whilst the Austrians attacked the position in front, Prince Frederick Charles directed a division of the Prussians towards Cappel, there to cross the Schlei and fall upon the rear of the Danish army. This compelled the Danish general De Meza to retreat (5 Feb.). The new works which had been con¬ structed by the Danish engineer were afterwards levelled by the Prussians ; but the old dyke, which could not be removed without very great and un- remunerative expense, yet stands, as an incontrovertible witness to the original possession of the land by the Danes. Numerous barrows in the neigh¬ bourhood remind us of the warfare of ancient times; and several stones with Runic inscriptions, raised in memory of valiant Danish warriors, have here been found. Two may be seen in the park of Louisenlund , a I short drive from Schleswig, a manor- 16 Ttoute 8 .— house belonging to the Duke of Gliicksburg, where the present King of Denmark was born. A drive to the Danewerk and back may easily be made in two or three hours, and should be extended to Kurburg, where cuttings may be seen. 14 m. E. is Eckernforde on the Baltic. Dil. daily in 3 hrs. Eckern¬ forde is a Stat on the Ely. from Kiel to Flensburg (Rte. 3). An action took place here in 1849 between some coast batteries erected by the Ger¬ mans and two Danish men-of-war, which had to surrender. Rly. thence N.W. to (31 m.) Flens¬ burg , or S.E. to (18 m.) Kiel. Rly. also N. to (18 m.) Kctppeln, which may also be reached by steamer direct from Schleswig in 3 hrs., passing Missunde and Amis mentioned above; the banks of the Slie are very pic¬ turesque. At Missunde King Erik Plovpenning of Denmark was mur¬ dered in 1250 at the secret instigation of his brother Abel, who was his vassal as Duke of Schleswig; the body was found by fishermen and buried in the cathedral at Schleswig, but was after¬ wards transferred to Bingsted. Two years later Abel was killed in battle, and also buried in the cathedral, but the clergy complained that his ghost, which could find no quiet in the grave, interrupted the night ser¬ vices, and the body was therefore, at the command of King Christoph I., taken away and thrown into a bog in the neighbourhood. 5 m. N. of Schleswig is Idstedt, where a battle was fought on the 25th July, 1850 ; the army of the Holstein insurgents occupied a strong position, supported by a line of lakes and woodland, from which they were driven by the Danes. This battle virtually ended the rebellion, though, thanks to the support of Germany, they still remained under arms for a few months, encamped near Rends- burg, from whence they made two unsuccessful attacks on the Danish Flensburg. position at Missunde and at Fredericks* stad. The train goes on to Jtibek Junct. Rly. E. to Ilusum. About 6 m. S. of Flensburg is a village near a small lake called Oever- see, where the Danish rear - guard, both in 1848 and in 1864, sustained fierce conflicts with the advancing Germans, in order to cover the retreat of the main body of the army. 109 m. Nordschleswigsche Weiche Junct. [Rly. W. to Lindholm (Rte. 9).] 112 m. Flensburg Junct. (37,000),s£s a beautifully situated and flourishing commercial place, at the head of the Flensburg Fjord. It has an excellent harbour, with 7 to 15 fathoms of water. But little remains of the old public buildings of the town except¬ ing the two gateways. In the royal Castle of Duborg , Queen Margaret of Denmark, Norway and Sweden, often resided; she died on board a vessel in the harbour in 1412. Now but a fragment of the walls is visible above ground. Fine view from the Bellevue restaurant, on the W., near the Wind¬ mill. St. Nicholas’ Church has a curious font. In the Museum is a remarkable boat of the 3rd cent, found in a peat-bog at Nydam in Schleswig, 72 ft. in length, and pulling 14 oars on each side. There is a very pretty and extensive Public Garden, close to the Rly. A considerable portion of the in¬ habitants speak Danish, which in 1825 was prevalent as far S. as the Slie and the Danewerk, but has been almost superceded S. of Flensburg by the Low German. Steamer direct to Korsor in 12 hrs. (Rte. 20), starting at 6.40 a.m., in correspondence with a train which reaches ^Copenhagen at 10 p.m. (see Rte. 13). The panorama of Flensburg from the bay is very pretty, and the shores of the bay are well timbered. After passing some small islands and round¬ ing a headland, the Castle of Glucks- Route 8.— Svenborg— Woyens. burg,$£ on the rt., is seen for a moment through a cutting in the wood. On the shore is a Bathing establishment, much frequented in the summer. Next appears, to the ]., Graasten (1700),^ and then straight ahead, apparently closing the bay, the so- called Broager land, a hilly penin¬ sula, ornamented by the twin spires of Broager church. The steamer turns rt. in order to round the promontory, and then emerges into the Baltic. To the left appears the bay of Vemming bund. The defensive works at Dybbol are clearly seen from the sea, par¬ ticularly if the steamer, as is generally the case, runs into the Alssund, in order to land passengers at Sonder- burg.zg The water here is deep enough for the largest ships, and the current through the sound so rapid, that it never freezes over. After leaving Sonderburg, the steamer rounds the S. extremity of the island, giving it a wide berth on account of sandbanks. We observe the entrance of Horup Hav , a deep bay penetrating in front of Sonderburg, which was of the greatest importance to the Danes during the siege of Dybbol, because it afforded an easy and safe place of embarkation and unloading ot stores. The steamer then crosses the Little Belt between the islands of Als and AEro, passes round the N. point of the latter island, and after a wind¬ ing passage amongst smaller islands, halts at Svendborg (8800),an excessively prettily situated town, with two churches of the 12th cent., on the S. extremity of Fyen. The neighbour¬ hood abounds in pretty walks and views. [Illy. N. to Odense (Rte. 19).] Steam ferry in 5 min. to Vindeby, on the Island of Taasinge, originally Thorseng (Thor’s meadow), a very valuable domain belonging to the descendants of Niels Juel, one of the naval heroes of Denmark. 3 m. S. is the Church of Bregninge, from the tower of which is a magnificent *view extending more than 25 miles in every Denmark. 17 direction over sea and islands ; 65 churches can be counted. 2 m. E. of the Church is the Castle (Slot Vaicle- mar ) originally built in 1630 for Prince Valdemar, son of King Christian IV. In Svendborg and on Taasinge, there is a prosperous shipbuilding- trade, favoured by the deep water and safe anchorage in the “ Svend¬ borg sund.” The district is more fully described in Rte. 19. After leaving Svendborg, the steamer passes through a wider arm of the sea between Fyen on the left and Langeland on the right. This fertile and well-timbered island, 32 m. by 5 at the widest point, belongs mostly to Count Ahlefeldt. Its little town of Rudkjobing (3500),on this island, was the birthplace of II. C. Orsted, the discoverer of electro¬ magnetism. The steamer now crosses the Great Belt to Korsbr (Rte. 17). Two Rly. lines run from Flensburg to Eckernforde (see above); the one inland by Siiderbrarup, the other skirting the coast by Kappeln. On quitting Flensburg, our train returns to the Junct. at Nordschles- wigsche Weiche, and proceeds N. to 128 m. Tinglef Junct. (Rly. W. to Tondern ). 138 m. Rodekro (German, Botlien- krug), Junct. for Aabenraa (Germ., Apenrade a well-to-do town, pret¬ tily situated on a bay of the same name in the Little Belt. Many of the in¬ habitants are extensive shipowners and shipbuilders. 151 m. Woyens Junct. for Haders- leben,$£ on the E. coast, a very old town with 9000 Inhab., and a handsome Church. The train passes the Prussian frontier at Sommerstedt, and enters Denmark at Vamdrup. Handbags and unregistered luggage are here examined at the Danish douane. The Rly., which hitherto has chiefly passed through desolate moors and heaths, now approaches the sea, and the land- c 18 Route 8.— Kolding — Fredericia. scape improves. Tire district is more fully described in Rte. 19. r> 167 m. Lunderskov Junct. [Riy- W. to Brammvnge .] 171 m. Kolding (10,000),an old town prettily situated on the Kolding Fjord, and endowed with special privi¬ leges by Christopher II. in 1321. It has been several times burnt, and was the scene of a conflict in 1849 between the Danes and the Schleswig- Holsteiners. Close to the Stat. are the red brick massive ruins of the *Koldinghus , begun in 1248, de¬ stroyed by fire in 1808. The corners of the tower were surmounted by colossal statues representing Scipio, Hercules, Hector, and Hannibal; the latter, holding a shield with the arms of Denmark, is still standing. It is one of the finest ruins in Denmark, and very picturesque at moonlight. From Kolding a charming excursion may be made S.E. to (8 m.) Skamlingsbanken (Carriage, 7 kr.), on an eminence (363 ft.) with a magnificent view. Here the North Schleswigers for several years pre¬ vious to 1848 held monster meetings, to protest against the so-called Schles¬ wig-Holstein agitation, and the in¬ tended separation of Schleswig from Denmark. A fine granite obelisk , 60 ft. high, with the names of their Danish leaders, commemorates the fact. It was thrown down by the Germans in 1864, but is now restored ; the locality, which formerly was just inside the Schleswig territory, and thus really was to have been ceded to the Prussians in 1864, having remained in the possession of Denmark by a regulation of the frontier. Dil. S. to (17 m.) Hcidersleben (see above), pass¬ ing (10 m.) Christians]eld. Pleasant trip by small steamer along the Fjord 8 m. E. to the beautiful little island of Fseno (Rte. 17). Beyond Kolding the Rly. passes through a rich undulated country with occasional glimpses of Kolding Fjord and the Little Belt, here scarcely a mile wide, and of the opposite coast. 187 m. Fredericia (*Buffet), where passengers for Copenhagen change into a carriage which runs in less than a minute to the steamer (Rte. 17). Fredericia (9900) was founded by Frederik III. in 1655, and was in¬ tended to become a powerful fortress, securing the connection between Jut¬ land and Fyen; but the plan was never carried out, and it is now dis¬ mantled. In 1848 the Danes did not attempt to defend the fortress, but during the armistice of 1848-9 it was thoroughly repaired; and when in 1849 the Danish army had to retreat before the far more numerous German forces, a garrison was left in Fredericia, which the army of the Holstein insurgents, advancing in the rear of the allied Germans, besieged for two months, during which the town was destroyed by a bombardment. On the 6th of July a Danish corps, which had been brought into the fortress by way of the sea, made a sortie, defeated the besieging army, and captured their camp and artillery and numerous prisoners. In memory of this victory, a fine monument was erected inside one of the gates (on leaving the station the first street to the 1. leads directly to it), consisting of a bronze Statue of a Soldier, putting one foot on a howitzer, and waving a beech-branch as a sign of victory. The figure, by JBissen (Thorvaldsen’s best pupil, born in Schleswig), is placed on a granite pedestal; the total height is 20 ft. The monument stands in an open triangular place; from the apex of the triangle two streets issue, of which the broadest and longest (Danmarks- gade) leads to the church and ceme¬ tery of the IToly Trinity , where 500 fallen Danes rest under a barrow planted with beech-trees. Here is a relief by Bisscn of two soldiers burying a fallen com¬ rade. Returning by Jyllandsgade, which runs parallel to Danmarksgade on the other side of the church, the 4th turn to the 1. leads to the harbour. A bronze bust by Bissen , of General 19 Route 8.— MunJcebjerg — Veile. Billow, the Danish Commander in the battle of Fredericia, stands in front of the new and handsome town-liall, built in 1860, a few minutes’ walk from the station. As a fortress, Fredericia is now valueless. The train now runs N. through Jutland, the largest province of the Danish kingdom, and more varied in its nature than any other. Almost all the towns are situated close to the sea, or on inlets or little Fjords, and those on the E. side may generally be reached from Copenhagen or Korsor by steamer. The interior almost en¬ tirely consists of extensive, thinly populated heaths, offering no induce¬ ment to the traveller. About 10 m. beyond Fredericia the Tily. reaches the Veilefjord, turns V/., and skirts the sea. The view across the Fjord to the manor of Tirsbxk and the woods on the N. coast is very pretty. 199 m. Munkebjerg,^2 very beauti¬ fully situated on the 8. bank of the Veilefjord, and celebrated for its luxuriant vegetation. It is the only place in Denmark where the yew-tree grows wild. Excellent bathing. 203 m. Veile (9000),at the outlet of a little river, is chiefly noted for its charming neighbourhood. In every direction there are beautiful walks, and the traveller need only go outside the N. end of the town and follow any road or path. 5 m. along the northern shore is Tirsbxk, with a beautiful park and very interesting old build¬ ings ; from the hills, under which the path runs, are fine views over the fjord. Boats can always be obtained in the harbour for a sail or excursion to Tirsbselc. Steamer from Tirsbsek across the fjord to Munkebjerg, and thence to Veile. Pleasant walk from Veile to (1 m. E.) Skyttehus. The Greisdal, a beautifully-wooded valley, runs due N. for 4 m. to Greis. The return may be made by (5 m. W.) Jselling, a village in which stand two mighty barrows, almost overtopping the little church. Here rest Gorm the first King of United Denmark and his queen Tliyra Danebocl , the last Danish king and queen buried according to the rites of paganism, about the year 940. The burial- chamber of Thyra’s barrow is of heavy oak timber and is now ren¬ dered accessible. The key is kept in a neighbouring house. The few objects found here when the barrow was opened in 1861 are preserved in the Museum of Antiquities in Copen¬ hagen. In the churchyard are two Runic stones, the smaller one erected by King Gorm in memory of Queen Thyra; the larger one by their son King Ilarald Blaatand in memory of his parents. This latter is very handsome, with figures in relief; on the one side a crucified form, on the other a dragon, round which a serpent coils itself. 3 m. S. of Jellinge is Faarup Lake , whence a country abounding in bar- rows may be explored S.S.W. to (10 m.) Engelsholm, a handsome old manor-house built in 1592 by Knud Brahe, brother of the famous astro¬ nomer Tycho Brahe. Through a fine little beech-wood adjoining the garden a road leads to Engelsholms Clothmill in a deep valley, where it is not observed till one reaches the edge of the plateau. The mill is worked by a small river which rises in the lake of Engelsholm, and after a very rapid course joins the Veileaa. On the other side are seen the commencement of Rand- bolhede, one of the most desolate tracts of the Jutland heath, and also some pine-plantations. The whole desolate neighbourhood to the W. of the river shows clear vestiges of having once been populous and cultivated. For the return journey the shortest route is by (3 m.) Bresten, and (7 m.) Veile, passing Haraldskjser , a very old, now modernised, manor-house, supposed to derive its name from Harald Blaatand. A longer round leads by Kjelkjser farm and Kobber- vseket (paper-mill), joining the ordinary road at Haraldskjser. This excursion will occupy the whole day, but it gives an admirable idea of the character of c 2 20 Route 8.— Horsens — Aarhus. the Cimbrian peninsula (carriage 16 kr.). The train now turns N.E. to 223 m. Horsens Junct. (17,500),at the head of an inlet from the sea. There are a few old houses with carved timber, and Vor Frelsers KirJce has some interesting architectural de¬ tails, and a beautifully carved pulpit, in the style of the altarpiece at Schleswig Cathedral. It originally belonged to the Greyfriars* Church , nearer the harbour, one of the only two built by this Order which still exist in Denmark, now disused for service and in a bad state of repair, but containing tombs of Lichtenberg and Brunswick-Luneburg princes. 1 m. N.W. of the town is the Tugthus (1853), or provincial Prison of Jutland, a very large and well- arranged establishment. 4 m. E. lies Boiler, one of the most ancient manors in Denmark (the most modern part dates from 1588). Opposite, on the N. coast of the fjord, are the woods of Stensballegaard, with beauti¬ ful views. [Rly. W. to Tor ring, S.E. to duels- minde. The former line passes Byg~ holm, with a pretty Garden, and the small town of JJldum.^L The latter is more interesting, and leads by Horn- syld, 2^ m. S. of which is the remark¬ able Romanesque Church of Vrigsted. Within the tower is a curious stair¬ case. 5 m. E. of Gramrode are the fine Gardens and Manor-house of Falsgaard (1412); and 6 m. S.W. of Barr it lies Bosenvold, another Manor- house with a large Park, beautifully situated on the N. shore of the Veile Fjord. 2§ m. W. lies the small bath¬ ing-place of Fakkegrav (steamer to Veile). From Vesterby the traveller may visit (2 m. N.W.) Kalsbol (fine view), and (1 m. S.W.) Barritskov (1598)—both of them country houses of interest. The train reaches the Bay of Sandbjserg at Juelsminde.^] The main line describes a wide curve, passing on the rt. the large Prison, and reaches 235 m. Hylke. 5 m. S.W. rises Ejer Bavnehoj (565 ft.), the highest point in Denmark, commanding a ^magnificent view. 241 m. Skanderborg (2400),8$ takes its name from an ancient castle which stood here till 1767, when it was de¬ molished, with the exception of one tower and the Chapel, now the parish church. It had been the scene of many important historical events, and often served as a residence. Near the church is a marble bust of Frederik VI., erected in 1845 on a pedestal of granite, ornamented with reliefs of Justice, Liberty, Enlightenment, and the Institution of the Provincial Es¬ tates, established in 1834 by Frederik VI., which formed the beginning of the present free constitution of Den¬ mark. Close by to the N.W. is the village of Skandrup, with a very peculiar church tower. The church was entirely gutted by the German troops in 1849, but is now very taste¬ fully restored. 6 m. N. of Skander¬ borg is Vsenge, with a ruined Mo¬ nastery, of which a very interesting Church remains. 256 m. Aarhus (33,000).^ a thriv¬ ing town, is one of the oldest in the kingdom, and as early as 948 it be¬ came the seat of a bishop. The ^Cathedral of St. Clement, the longest church in Denmark (296 ft.), was commenced in 1201, by Bishop Peter Vagnsen of the famous house of Hvide (1204), who is buried under the altar. The spire (340 ft.), which formerly surmounted the colossal tower, was destroyed several times, last in 1772, and restored in 1881; the two small towers had originally spires. By judicious restoration most of the tasteless mutilations of later times are removed, and the original beauties of the building are brought to light again. The choir is particularly light and elegant. The altar (1479) displays beautiful carving on a gold ground. As in many Danish churches, a ship is suspended in the centre of the cross; this particular one is a Route 8.— Braband — Banders. model which Peter the Great had bought in Holland, but which never reached its destination, the vessel which had it on board being wrecked on the coast of Jutland. The nume¬ rous chapels are chiefly used as family sepulchres, and a great many persons known in Danish history repose here. Vor Frue Kirke, originally the chapel of a Dominican monastery (1280), and now attached to a Hos¬ pital, is well worth a visit. The Lunatic Asylum N. of the town is also noteworthy, and there are several old houses with carved timber framework. The immediate neighbourhood is pretty. Bis Skov (Rte. 13), 4 m. N., Marselisborg (3 m. S.), and other woods along the coast, afford charm¬ ing excursions, though principally for pedestrians, as they are not open to carriages except on Sundays and Feast days. 15 m. N.W. (carriage 12 kr.) is Frijsenborg , the seat and park of Count Frijs-Frijsenborg, once Prime Minister, and the largest landed proprietor in Denmark, best reached from Ilinnerup or Laurberg Stat. (see below). The house is modern Eliza¬ bethan, and very handsome. 1 m. beyond it is the village of Hammel. [Branch Ely. S. to Ilou, passing Maarslet,Z$i beyond which on the left lies the manor house of Vilhelmsborg. Further on, the train reaches the busy little town of Odder (2000),$ whence it runs S.E. to the small bathing-place of Hou. $] The Rly. now cuts across the base of a peninsula formed by the sea and the fjord of Banders, which contains some of the prettiest scenery in Jut¬ land. The distance to Randers by road is 21 m.; by Rly. 36 m. The latter descends the winding stream of the Lilleaa to its confluence with the Gudenaa at Langaa, passing 260 m. Braband,$ prettily situated on its little lake, with numerous villas. The line now turns N. to 21 270 m. Hinnerup.$ Carriage-road W. to (7 m.) Frijsenborg. 282 m. Laurberg.$ 10 m. S. is Frij¬ senborg (see above). 3 m. N.W. rises Lysned (430 ft.). 284 m. Langaa$ Junct. [Rly. W. to Viborg.'J The train now follows the 1. bank of the river to 292 m. BANDERS (16,500),$ a very old town, on the Gudenaa, which is navigable for large merchant* ships. It is mentioned in the 11th cent., and some of the earliest Danish coins were struck here ; many histo¬ rical events are connected with it, but none more famous than the deed of Niels Fbbesen, a Jutland nobleman, who, on the 1st of April, 1340, with a handful of men entered the town and Castle, and killed Count Gerhard, of Holstein, who was quartered there with 4000 soldiers. Owing to civil war, bad administration, and the per¬ sonal incompetence of the Danish king Christopher, the whole country had come into the possession of fo¬ reigners who unscrupulously oppressed it. Against this rule Niels Ebbesen raised a rebellion which ended in the liberation of the country under Val- demar III. Nothing remains now of the ancient castles which are stated to have existed here, and there are not many remains of old buildings. The 14th cent, red-brick Church of St. Martin has a Choir of 1494. It contains some good carving, and was well restored in 1870. The remaining churches of interest are the Helli- gaands-ldoster , N.E. of St. Martin, the Vor Frue-ldoster, and the Franciscan Graabrodre-ldoster. Randers is an important cattle-mar¬ ket, and is the original seat of the manufacture of the specially so-called Danish gloves. Its once celebrated salmon fisheries have much declined on account of injudicious fishing. The fish used to ascend the tjord of Ran¬ ders and the Gudenaa in great quan¬ tity, and the manors along the river derived great advantage from their 22 Route 8 .—Aalum —Mar layer. LaJcsegaarde or fishing-places. Now only one remains, at Frisenvold, 5 m. S. The neighbourhood is pretty ; and, as this part of Jutland was once densely populated, there are a great number of fine old churches and other antiquarian remains. 6 m. S.S.E., on the high road to Aarhus, is the church of 01st, built of granite with remarkable sculptures, an altar of the same kind as those of Lisbjerg and Tvenstrup, now in the museum of Northern antiquities at Copenhagen, and an ancient font. 3 m. E. of the village is Klausholm, with fine park and woods. It was from Klausholm that Frederik IV., in 1712, carried away the Countess Anna Sophia, daughter of the then Lord Chancellor of Denmark, Count Re- ventlow, whom he afterwards made queen of Denmark. Klausholm lies 7 m. S. of Uggelhuse Stat. (Rte. 13). 8 m. W. of Randers is Fousingsd, a lake encircled by woods and steep hills clothed with heath, particularly fine near the Church of Lxsten, 2 m. N.E. of the Lake. Near Lsesten a great quantity of ornaments in amber —more than 4000 pieces—were dis¬ covered some years ago, which are now in the museum of Northern An¬ tiquities in Copenhagen. On the way to Fousingsd, the old Church of (5 m.) Bjerregrav with a Norman doorway, under which is a Runic stone, may be visited (see below), and the return journey should be laid through Aalum, 2 m. S. of the Lake, with one of the finest 11th cent, granite churches in Denmark. 3 m. W. was the Castle of Stcjern, of which the foundations are still seen ; it was de¬ stroyed in the 17th cent. The Church of Skjern has a richly carved altar, and two Runic stones. Thence due E. to (10 m.) Banders by carriage- road. Interesting old churches are also to be seen at Borup , 4 m. N.W. of Randers, with a very fine carved altar, Ilald (granite) also with a carved altar, formerly in St. Martins in Randers, 8 m.N.N.E. (see below); Holbelz with remarkably fiat vaults of granite, Or- sted with fine Norman doorway and sculptures and very old font, and Veilby with a similar doorway (see Rte. 13). The last three may be com¬ bined with a visit to the manors of Stovringgaard (now a convent for un¬ married ladies of good family) and Stenalt, in a drive of about 30 m. The way lies N.E.E. from Randers to Siovringgaard, thence via Mellerup, by ferry across the Randersfjord to llolbek, and S. by Orsted, Veilby, and W. through Essenbsek back to Ran¬ ders. Branch Rly. N. by Hold to Had- sund s$ on the Manager- fjord, which is crossed by ferry. 3 m. W. of Had- sund is Ravno, a large kitchen-mid¬ den. Thence N. to (2 m.) Visborg- gaard, a very fine old manor-house of 1575. The main line leads N.W. through a hilly country to 207 m. Bjerregrav. 3 m. S.W. lies Fousingo (see above). Thence to 312 m. Hobro, an old town of 2500 Inhab., entirely rebuilt after two great fires in 1812 and 1813, at the head of the long and narrow Mariager- fjord, surrounded by very steep hills which entirely conceal it till one is quite near. The modern Church (1852) has an old font and a good carved altar from 1699; by it is a Runic stone. There are pretty walks along the fjord, but the best excursion is to Manager,8 m. E. on the fjord (steamer daily). This miniature town (800) owes its existence to a famous Brigittine convent founded about 1400 in this pretty and secluded spot. But little of the monastic build¬ ings and only a part of the church ra- main, and the latter has suffered dread¬ fully from alterations, particularly in 1788, though it is still architecturally interesting. 1 m. S.E. of Mariager is Hohoj (365 ft.), the highest point in the neighbourhood, commanding a striking *view over the two Fjords. 23 Route 8.— Aalborg—Nor re Sundby. The Rly. runs through the extensive Forest of Rold on the way N. to 322 m. Store Arden.1^ hr. E. of the Stat., on the road to Villestrup, is the Blaakilde (Blue Spring), the most abundant natural source in Denmark. Passing on the rt. the pretty little Oxe So, the train reaches 326 m. Skjorping.^2 2 m. W. stretches the Rebbild Banker, a pic¬ turesque upland (295 ft.), covered thickly with beech and heather. The Lindenborg is now crossed to 331 m. Stovring.S^ [Dil. S.W. to (11 m.) Sonderup .] 10 m. E. lies the interesting manor-house of Linden¬ borg. Omn. daily from (11 m.) Aal¬ borg (see below). 313 m. Aalborg (19,000),on the Limfjord. Here coins were struck by king Hardekund in 1035-1012, and no other town in Denmark has to such an extent preserved its ancient appear¬ ance. Numerous narrow and steep alleys and five small brooks traverse the town, which is rich in old bridges and all kinds of curious nooks and corners. Among private houses the best are Jens Bangs Gaard (1623), now a pharmacy, and the House of King Hans, on the Gameltorv, where he died in 1513. Numerous interest¬ ing old fragments may be found by strolling about the town, particularly near the Osteraa. The Vor Frues- kirke (about 1100) has a tower re¬ built in 1591. Norman N. doorway restored in 1869. The old monastery of the Holy Ghost (1131), now a Hos¬ pital, has preserved many old fea¬ tures. There is a small Historical Museum, founded, in 1863 in the house next the Cathedral School, The Limfjord, here only 600 yards wide, does not really deserve the name of a fjord in as far as it is not a closed inlet of the sea. In ancient times it was so, but since 1822 it has become really a sound, 50 m. long, connecting the North Sea with the Kattegat and converting the extreme North of Jut¬ land into an island. As late as the 11th cent, this part consisted of several islands, which a subsequent slow upheaval of the soil united by transforming the intervening sounds into low meadow tracts. For the interesting N.E. extremity of Jutland, which is called Vendsyssel, and whose inhabitants, the Vendelboer, have made themselves famous for their obstinate love of liberty and their dogged resistance to royal and ecclesiastical power—Aalborg forms a convenient startiug-point (Rte. 16). The Limfjord, between Aalborg and Norre Sundby, was a long time crossed only by a pontoon bridge, the rapidity of the current, the depth of the water, the quality of the soil and the violence of the floating ice in spring, rendering the construction of a permanent bridge on piers a work of great difficulty and expense. The bridge, however, has been built, but the pontoon remains as well. The Rly. crosses the Fjord to 3J5 m. Norre Sundby (1800),^S whence a road strikes N.E. to (28 m.) Steby. Just before reaching (10 m.) Hjallerup, it crosses Orum Moor, famous for the not unfrequent appearance of a # mirage representing the Church of Orum, a couple of miles away, reflected in a sea with wooded islands. The central and S.E. part of Vendsyssel is dis¬ tinguished by a range of hills with peculiar short and abrupt outlines, and deep valleys of which the steep sides are covered with rich wood, called “ den jydske Aas.” The first spur of these, the Hills of Altrup, is passed between Norre Sundby and Hjallerup; one of the main ridges rises just beyond Hjallerup, and is called Allerup Bakker. From a point close to the highroad, where this crosses the summit of the range, there is a very fine view of the whole country, and close by, to the rt., ap¬ pears a beautiful and characteristic wooded tract called Dronninglund Storskov, rich in fine walks and views. It derives its name from the neighbouring manor of 24 Route 8.— Ssehj — Bronderslev. Dronninglund, formerly a convent called Hundslund, first mentioned in 1268, but purchased in 1690 by the wife of Christian V. It subsequently belonged to the Brigadier Hailing, who endeavoured by a judicious selec¬ tion of his tenants of both sexes to improve the race, traces of which are said to be still evident. From several points in the wood the manor-house, with its two square towers, appears. 16 m. from Norre Sundby is Flauenslc- joldis , whence a side road leads rt. to (3 m.) Voergaard, one of the *finest buildings in Denmark. This old manor once belonged to the Bishops of Borglum or Vendsyssel, but came after the Reformation into the pos¬ session of private owners, amongst whom Ingeborg Sheet, the wife of Otto Banner (1591), built the principal part of the present house, though parts are older. It is of red brick, ornamented with a profusion of ex¬ cellently wrought sandstone sculp¬ tures, spiral staircases, curious niches, passages, and a prison cell ( Bosodont ), concerning Avhich such dreadful ghost stories are told, that not even the boldest miscreant will pass a night there without confessing his crimes. Numberless are the legends told of the lady who built this hand¬ some pile, and of the shifts to which she was put in order to pay for the erection of the structure. In the neighbouring Church of Voer is a splendid monument erected by her order for herself and her husband ; there is also a fine carved altar. The Voersaa rivulet flows towards the Kattegat not far from Voergaard, and after passing the modern Gothic manor-house of (5 m.) Bugtved, winds through a very narrow valley with fine beech-trees, whose tops meet over the water, forming a delightful canopy 2 m. in length from Rugtved to the sea. Beyond Flauenshjold the road from Norre Sundby runs across the spurs of Iydshe Aas past some old unpre¬ tending manors, corn-fields, and mea¬ dows to Saehy (1800 ),& on the shores of the Kattegat, which owes, if not its existence, at any rate its pros¬ perity, in the Middle Ages, to the rich Convent of Mariested founded in 1469, of which now only the lofty but narrow church, with a fine carved altar, remains. A side chapel, with a huge central pier supporting a hand¬ some vaulted roof, is at present walled off from the church, and used as an engine-house. The town has con¬ siderable fisheries, particularly of turbot. 1 m. N.W. is a remarkably strong Chalybeate Spring, with Baths. Opposite Sseby is the island of (14 m.) Lseso, surrounded by danger¬ ous sandbanks, whose 3000 inhabitants have preserved a handsome mediaeval costume, but which otherwise offers nothing of interest. The excursion is a very rough one. A post-boat goes from (18 m.) Frederiksliavn, and a road leads from the landing-place to (4 m.) Byrum 8$ on the S. side of the island. The neighbourhood of Saeby to the W. and N. is very pretty ; a charm¬ ing walk leads through a winding valley and fine woods to (2 m.) S&by- gaard, an ancient manor with fine old buildings. Other pretty places may be visited on the way to Frederikshavn by choosing a somewhat winding- route further inland, instead of the ordinary high-road which follows the sea-shore (8 m.). The principal points should be Oxenliede, Karup Kirhe , Tlironhave, Understed Kirhe, Bosen- gaarden, Vrangbseh, Studebahhen (fine view), Flade Kirhebahhe, and Bangsbo Shov, all pretty and characteristic specimens of Danish landscape- beauty. The Rly. continues due N., passing on the 1. the dreary Store Vildmose, to 360 m. Bronderslev.^ Dil. W. in 2 lirs. to (10 m.) Saltum, 5 m. S.W. of which, on the sea, lies the favourite bathing-place of Blokhus ^ (see be¬ low). 7 m. N.E. of Bronderslev lies Jerslev,$& and about the same distance E., Hallund.l ^ 3 m. E. of Jerslev rises Sohedens Bakke (365 ft.), the 25 Route 8 .— Vi highest point in the N. range of the Jydslce Aas. 367 m. Vraa.^2 8 m. E. is the old Convent of Vreilev. G m. N.W. lies Borglumhloster, and 4 m. further W., LoklcenjQ, a small market borough on the coast of the North Sea, whose inhabitants trade with Norway and England. The streets are paved with nothing but drifting sand. 4 m. inland is Bor glum Kloster, originally a royal residence, and men¬ tioned as such in 1086, since 1128 a Premonstratensian Convent, which at the time of the Reformation had grown very rich, and was the resi¬ dence of the Bishop of Vendsyssel. It is now in private hands and has been judiciously restored. The Church, which served as cathedral, is exter¬ nally well preserved. Just outside is Baalhoi, an eminence from which 44 churches can be counted. The road leads towards the S. through a number of villages to (10 m.) Hune Kirhe, with a Runic stone, from whence a visit may be paid to Blolc- hus,$$ a little bathing-place in green meadows surrounded by sand-hills on the shore, about 2 m. W. (see above). From Hune, the road turns S.S.E. to (9 m.) Aaby (Rte. 16). 373 m. Hjorring (6000),an an¬ cient town. Dil. to (8 m. W.) Lons- trap a sea-side resort on the Kat¬ tegat. The train now turns E. and runs through wood and heath to 385 m. Tolne.s^2 5 min. S.E. of the Stat. rises the Boelhoi (365 ft.), the highest point of the Tolne Batcher, a group of low hills. Fine view. 395 m. Frederikshavn (5000), until 1818 called Fladstrand. 120 years ago it was merely a fishing- village on the ground of the manor of Knivliolt, whose owner, in 1740, sold it to one of the inhabitants for the sum of 440Z. sterling. There is a harbour of refuge, which is sought by hundreds of vessels at a time during winter when navigation in the Kattegat is raa — Shagen. exceedingly difficult and dangerous. Many of the inhabitants obtain a livelihood by the oyster fisheries carried on a little N. of the town; the oysters, commonly called Flad- strand's Osters, are very much ap¬ preciated in Denmark ; they are much larger and richer, but not so delicate as the English natives. Steamer three times a week to Christiansand, daily to Lxsd and Goteborg. 4 m. N.E. are the islands of Uirshol- mene, which consist of an enormous quantity of boulders covered by a very thin layer of earth. They are very dangerous to navigation, and there is a lighthouse, built in 1838, to warn the vessels that approach them. Their population consists mainly of rabbits, of which there are countless multitudes. The Rly. now turns N. again, and runs chiefly over sand and moor. A very peculiar formation is here ob¬ served, consisting of so-called Vopper and Bimmer —the former being strips of meadow-land 20 to 40 ft. wide, sometimes a mile or two long, running parallel with the coast, but at a con¬ siderable distance from it, and sepa¬ rated from each other by “ Rimmer,” sand ridges 10 to 16 ft. high and over¬ grown with heather. Beyond the large fishing-village of Aalbaek,^ a tongue of land is entered only 5 m. wide, which is gradually reduced to 2 at Skagen. The whole promontory is covered with drifting sand, forming ever-shifting hills, and it is only where some little brook affords the necessary moisture that verdant turf is pro¬ duced. 3 m. W. of Aalbsek is Gaard- bogaard, the furthest north ot all the Danish manor-houses. 420 m. Skagen (2300),8^ better known to British seamen as tlie Shaw, had formerly considerable corn-fields, but all are buried under the sand, as is also the old Gothic church, of which only the square tower is still visible. The sand itself is not destitute of nutriment for vegetation, and with the aid of fish-manure very fair crops of barley are raised; but the ground is 26 Route 9 .—Hamburg to Bramminge, unstable, and a strong gale may suddenly whirl up the sand and destroy the vegetation. Nor do the never-resting winds allow trees or shrubs to grow unless tended with especial care, such as have nursed the small plantation near the residence of the Byfoged or principal magistrate. Hound the cottages of the fishermen nothing grows but marehalm ( Elymus arencirius ), of which the rigid stems and leaves reach as high as the roof. The history of Skagen is a history of gales, and. sand-drifts, and ship¬ wreck, and its great events are such as the drift of 1775, when the old Church was buried, or the gale of “ little Christmas Eve,” as they say in Denmark, meaning the evening before Christmas Eve, 1825, when 50 richly laden merchantmen went on shore. On the wall of the Church (184:1) is a handsome relief by Paulsen, in memory of a sad accident on the 27th Dec., 1862, when the lifeboat was upset, in an attempt during a furious gale to save the crew of the Swedish brig Daphne: the whole crew perished, but a public subscrip¬ tion was opened, and 3500L were collected for their seven widows and their children. The Danes and Swedes in London placed the tablet here in memoriam. Skagen is one of the wildest and most desolate spots in the world, yet within a couple of hours’ journey from fertile, peaceful, and idyllic landscapes. There is a Lighthouse, erected in 1859, of the first order, replacing the old light now used as a sea-mark; and a Signal Station, through which passing ships can communicate the fact of their passage to their owners by flag signals, which are duly reported and published. 8 m. S.S.W. on the E. coast is the Torreveire Bende, a brook surrounded by a fresh green oasis; and 5 m. W. of it, on the shores of the Kattegat, is a similar oasis at Kandestederne. At the latter place is a Shipwreck Station (. Bednings-station ), of which three exist on the E. coast of Jutland, and 34 on the W. In the neighbourhood of Kandestederne the cliffs exhibit extensive layers of Martorv, a peculiar kind of semi-fossil peat, and they are in many places crowned by so-called Stensletter, large spaces covered with stones as firmly and closely joined as if they had been paved with art. At (10 m.) Tversted, a large and interest¬ ing Plantation at the base of the pro¬ montory of the Skaw, the road to Hjorring turns inland, past the old manor-house of Odden (14th cent.). The distance from Skagen to Hjorring by this road is 32 in., but the peculiar character of the country prevents the drive from being tedious. ROUTE 9. HAMBURG TO ERAMMIXGE. Miles. Stations. .Routes. Hamburg 24 Elmshorn . . 8 35 Giiickstadt 46 Itzehoe . . . 8 65 St. Michaelisdonn 4 Marne 71 Meldorf^ 79 Heide 2 Weddinghusen 11 Tonning Heide 2 Weddinghusen 9 Wesselburen 15 Biisum 93 Friedrichsstadt 101 Husum . . 8 13 Tonning 123 Lindholm 126 Niebull 136 Tondern 9 Hoyer-Schleuse 145 Bredebro 6 Liigumkloster 162 Hvidding 166 Kibe 176 Bramminge . . 14 Kte. 8 is followed as far as Elms- horn , where our line turns W. to 35 m. Giiickstadt (Rte. 1). Steamer twice daily in an hour to Wischhufen. Houte 0.— Itzehoe — Bibo. 4G m. Itzehoe (11,500).^ a very ancient but insignificant town, known principally as the former assembly place of the nobility and other repre¬ sentatives of the duchy, the so- called Estates of Holstein. Itzehoe is on the frontier of the Ditmarschen, or Holstein Marshland, which in the early middle ages formed an inde¬ pendent republic, and whose inhabi¬ tants of Frisian descent bravely de¬ fended their liberties against the kings of Denmark and the dukes of Holstein until 1559. [Ely. E. to Wrist."] G5 m. St. Michaelisdonn. [ Lily. S.W. to Marne.] 71 m. Meldorf. Here is a small Museum of Antiquities connected with the Ditmarschen. 79 m. Heide (7500),^ where there are two lily. Stations. [Illy. E. to Neurniinster, N.W. to Tonning. From Weddinghusen, the first Stat. on either line, a branch strikes S.W. to Biisurn. Tonning (3500),^ at the mouth of the shallow river Eider, formerly a fortress, is the departing-place of steamers to London and Lowestoft with cattle fattened in the marshes, particularly in the adjoining district of Eiderstedt. Ely. N. to Ilu&um, forming a loop with our present line.] 93 m. Friedrichsstadt (2500), at the junction of the Treen and the Eider. It was founded by Dutch colonists in 1621, who had been compelled to leave their home on account of religious persecution. It was of considerable importance during the German wars, because the right flank of the military position of the Danewerk was pro¬ tected by extensive inundations. These were brought about by preventing the outflow of the waters of the Treen into the Eider through the sluices at Friedrichsstadt. This little town thus became the key of the right wing of the Danish position. The place was attacked by Holsteiners in the autumn of 1850, and entirely destroyed by a bombardment, but an attempt to take 27 it by storm was defeated with very great loss. 101 m. Husuni (6300),^ with two Stations and an old ducal Castle. [Rly. N.E.E. to Jiibeli, S.S.W, to Tonning. (For the Frisian Islands, see Rte. 10 .)] 123 m. Lindholm. [Rly. E. to Flensburg .] 126 m. Niebiill. Omn. S.W. in I 3 hr. to Dcigebiill, whence steamer several times a day to Wide in # hr. (Rte. 10). 136 m. Tondern (3500),a very old town, which has suffered much from inundation and fire. [Rly. E. to Tingleff; W. to Royer ( 1000 ),whence a steamer runs daily in If hr. to (21 m.) Westerland, in the Island of Sylt (Rte. 10).] 145 m. Bredebro. [Branch Rly. E. to Liigumkloster (1400), where is a very interesting 13th cent. Abbey Church.] 162 m. Hvidding (Vedsted),$$ on the Danish frontier. 166 m. RlBE (3900).s£ A royal castle existed here from the 12 th to the 16th cent., but now even the ruins have disappeared, only the ramparts and moats being left. Ribe was also one of the earliest centres of Christ¬ ianity in Denmark. The second church in Denmark was built here in the 9th cent., the first being that of Schleswig, then generally called Hedeby. Ribe was at that time a flourishing commercial town, and the “Jydske Lov” was printed here in 1504 for the first time in Danish. It remained a wealthy and important place during the whole of the Middle Ages ; but inundations, fire, war, pestilence, and now lately the sepa¬ ration of Schleswig from Denmark, have well nigh destroyed the town. The ^Cathedral, one of the most j Route 10 .—Husum to the Frisian Islands. 28 interesting in the N., was commenced in 1117, and constructed with stone, in part of volcanic tuff, from the neighbourhood of Andernach on the Rhine. In style also it recalls the contemporaneous buildings in that part of Europe. Numerous village churches in the neighbourhood have been built in imitation of it. It has, however, suffered by later additions and restorations. The nave and inner aisles are in pure Norman style, the outer ones having slightly pointed arches. The apse, the doorways (sculptures in granite), and the columns of the gallery and the great cupola are particularly interesting. The spire fell down long ago, but there is an extensive view over the surrounding flats from the square tower (155 ft.). The Church of St. Catharine was part of a Dominican monastery, which is now a Hospital; the cloisters are walled up. The episcopal residence and the town-hall are interesting relics of the 15th cent. The train proceeds N. to 176 m. Bramminge, on the Ivly. between Lunderskov and Varde. ROUTE 10. HUSUM TO THE FRISIAN ISLANDS. Steamer from Husum to (6 m.) Nordstrand daily in an hour; to (20 m.) Pellworm daily in hrs.; to (32 m.) Wyh daily in hrs. From Dagebiill to Wyh, and from Hoyer to Sylt (see Rte. 9). From Wyk to Wittdiin in the Island of Amrurn daily in 2| hrs. The Frisian Islands well deserve a visit. Both the country and the people there are interesting. The marshland on the W. coast of Schles¬ wig, and the row of islands which gird it, are remnants of that extensive marshy country which is supposed to have formed the S. boundary of the North Sea, at the time when the English Channel did not exist, and when the North Sea itself was nothing but a large bay into which the Thames, the Scheldt, the Rhine, and the Elbe, poured their waters charged with fertile clay. The greater part of the marshy alluvial land must have dis¬ appeared when the channel was formed, but remaining portions are still seen along the coasts of England, Belgium, Holland, Germany, and Schleswig. For many centuries the inhabitants have been contesting the ground with the violence of the sea; mighty dykes stretch for hundreds of miles along these coasts, and from time to time new land is enclosed, but more is lost than gained. The west coast of Schleswig shows this in a remarkable manner. According to King Valdemar’s ‘ Jordebog’ of 1231, there were more than 60 churches in the Frisian pro¬ vince of Strand , but after the great floods of 1300, 1362, and 1634, only 14 remained. In the flood of Oct. 11, 1634, the sea broke through the dykes in 44 places; in Nordstrand alone 6000 men were drowned, and along the coast of Schleswig and Holstein 15,000 lost their life. The soil is exceedingly fertile, and much cattle is fattened here for the English mar¬ ket. In the enclosed “kougs,” inside the dykes, large and well-to-do farm¬ houses indicate the prosperity of the people; but on the unenclosed parts or “ Halligs,” either abutting on the dykes or forming separate islands, life is very difficult and. entails many hardships. The houses are built on small mounds to prevent their being swept away by the water, which at high tides and in the winter for weeks together cover the pastures, the inhabitants and their cattle all the while being surrounded by the sea as close prisoners. The people are descendants of the ancient Frisian nation, and have in some parts preserved their language, which is quite different both from German and Danish, though belong¬ ing to the same group of languages 29 Route 11 .—Flensburg to the Island of Als. as these and English. Many peculiar customs, and, as far as the women are concerned, a very picturesque national costume, have also been preserved. The sea-bathing places of Westerland and Wyh are chiefly visited by Ger¬ mans, and though certainly very primitive are attractive on account of their cheapness, simplicity, and quietness. The steamer on leaving Husum winds its way through smooth water by a very difficult and intricate course between numerous islands, of which Nordstrcind , a relic of the province of Strand, destroyed in 1631, and Pellworm (very interesting old church and beautiful ruins of an¬ other) are the largest, accomplishing the passage to Wyh on Fohr between the tides, as most of the ground it traverses is laid dry by the ebb. Wyk (1000 ),rebuilt since the fire of 1857, has a promenade, a little pier, and other appurtenances of a watering- place. The bathing is good, and the water very salt, owing to its shallow¬ ness, and the absence of fresh-water streams on the little island. The steamer goes on to Munhmarsch, a landing-place on the long and narrow island of Sylt (Danish ISild). Omn. across the island to (2 m.) Westerland,s£2 a small village on the W. coast, far more exposed than Wyk, but preferred by some for bathing. 2 m. N. of it is Wenningstedt,2$ also a popular bathing-place. This island con¬ sists of a narrow strip of land 23 m. long, mostly only 1 m. wide, covered with sand-hills, to which on the middle of the E. coast is joined a small con¬ stantly diminishing peninsula of marsh land, terminating in the lofty Morsum cliff, rich in fossils. There are no trees, and the inhabitants use peat for fuel, which they extract from sub¬ marine peat-bogs laid dry at the ebb. Many of them obtain a living at the oyster fisheries, which have existed for centuries, and yield several thou¬ sand barrels annually. The fields are cultivated by the women, while the men go to sea ; and in spite of all these disadvantages, the population, which is less than 3000, is very well off. . Some years ago it was stated that in the Danish funds alone more than 100,0Q0Z. were owned in this island. In the northern part the Danish language is spoken. Both here and on the island of Fohr a great quantity of wild duck are taken in so-called ‘‘Vogel Kojes,” consisting of a large pond with canals diverging in different directions. The canals, which are about 200 ft. long, are covered with nets, into which the ducks are entrapped, partly by corn strewn on the water, partly by tame decoy-ducks. In such a “ Koje ” as many as 30,000 ducks are sometimes taken in a year. From Munkmarsch there is a daily steamer in ^ hr. to Royer on the mainland (Rte. 9). ROUTE 11. FLENSBURG TO THE ISLAND OF ALS. Steamers from Flensburg to Gliicks- burg twelve times a day, in J hr. to lj hr. Thence to Sonderburg three times daily in about 2 hrs. Gliicksburg,8^ in the fertile dis¬ trict of Angeln, between the bay of Flensburg and the Slie, erro¬ neously was supposed to be the home of the Angles who settled in England in the 5th century. Origi¬ nally a monastery, By Kloster , it has been inhabited by princely personages since the Reformation, and King Frederik VII. died here in 1863 in consequence of a cold which he con¬ tracted on an archeological excursion. The 16th cent. Scliloss lies in a lake surrounded by pretty beechwoods. The steamer traverses the Flens¬ burg Fjord, a broad inlet of the sea, with gently swelling banks (see p. 16). The carriage - road lends by the North-gate, along the coast, through 30 Route 11.— Dybbol—Als. a wood called “ Kobbermolleskoven,” in the neighbourhood of which the battle of Flensburg was fought in April 1818, where the insurgents were defeated by the Danish troops; then turning E. across open fields to Gravenstein — an old-fashioned large manor-house belonging to the Duke of Augustenburg, surrounded by pretty woods. From thence the road turns round the small but very deep bay of Nybol Noer, and soon reaches the village of Dybbol. Nybol Noer (Germ. Nabel Noor ) is connected with the bay of Flensburg by a very narrow inlet, across which the Prussians had a bridge in 1864. The Danish iron¬ clad “ Rolfe Krake ” (built on the Clyde) was sent to destroy it, but could not get near enough, owing to her draught of water. She sustained a very heavy fire from the Prussian artillery without receiving any damage. This was the first actual engagement of a turret-ship in European waters, and has been the subject of much con¬ troversy, as the German artillerists erroneously maintained that their fire had driven the ironclad back. Beyond the village of Dybbol (Germ. Diippel) the ground rises abruptly, forming the so-called “ Dybbolbjerg,” which was the scene of a fierce struggle during the last war between Denmark and Germany. From the top of the hill, where a Gothic monument from Strack’s design has been erected to the fallen, there is a magnificent view over the surrounding country, which forms a peninsula called Sundered (Sundewitt), and across the narrow Als Sund to the island of Als and the little town of Sonderburg. Both in 1848, after the battle of Schleswig, and in 1864, the Danish army, being compelled to retreat before superior forces, took up a position on this hill, from which it could threaten the Hank of the advancing army, and where supplies could easily be ob¬ tained from Als, to which the road by sea always was open. In the first war between Denmark and Ger¬ many, the hill was left without any fortifications. In 1848 two severe engagements, 28th May and 5th June, took place in the front of the hill, but this was never attacked ; in 1849 the Danes, after a smart encounter at Ulderup, retired to Als, leaving the hill, save a tete de pont , in the hands of the enemy, who in vain attempted to force a passage over the bridges which lead to Sonderburg; but when a new war was foreseen in the years 1861-64, extensive works were erected on the crest of the hill, which resisted the attacks of the Prussians for two months. But the modern guns of the latter, which reached three times as far as the old-fashioned ordnance of the Danes, by degrees reduced the entrenchments to mere gravel heaps, and when the Prussians at last stormed the works on the 18th of April, the Dan¬ ish Commander had already resolved to give up the position. The Danish army retreated to Als, which is sepa¬ rated from Sundeved by a very narrow but deep arm of the sea. The im¬ mense superiority of the Prussian artillery, however, enabled the latter to force a passage across the Sound (29th June, 1864), for which they had made careful preparations under the shelter of a little wood on the Sun¬ deved side, which the Danish generals had omitted to cut down in time. The consequence was that the Danes had to quit the island by sea. Instead of the ruined Danish entrenchments the Prussians have now erected very powerful works on the hill and around Sonderburg, converting it into a for¬ midable fortress, and a monument has been erected to commemorate the victory over the Danes. A Bridge of Boats leads across the narrow Alser Sunde ’ to Sonderburg, and the island of Als, which occupies about 100 sq. m., and has 23,000 Inliab. The town of Sonderburg (5800), oppo¬ site Dybbol, with a 13th cent. Castle, was bombarded and destroyed by the Prussians during the siege of Dybbol. On the height of Arukiel, about 4 m. N., the Prussians have erected another Gothic Obelisk to record their victory over the Danes. At the opening of the Fjord, 5 m. N.E. of Sonderburg, lies the attractive bathing - place of Boute 12 .—SJcanderborg to SJcjern. 31 Augustenburg,S$ with a beautiful park, the ancestral seat of the branch of the house of Oldenburg which bears that name. It came into the possession of the Danish Government when the Duke was exiled on account of his participation in the insurrection in Holstein in 1818. Now it belongs to the Emperor of Germany, and is used as barracks. About the same distance E. of Sonderburg is Horup Hav, a very large and deep bay and natural harbour, by which the Danes in 1861 received their supplies for the garrison at Dybbol. The best general view of the island and its prettily in¬ dented fjords is gained from the Huge Berg (210 ft.), 5 m. N.E.E. of Augus- tenburg. For the steamboat voyage along the fjord, see Rte 8 . ROUTE 12. SKANDERBORG TO SKJEEN. Miles. Stations. Skanderbog 3 Aiken 7 Ry 11 Laven 15 Sveibaek 19 Silkeborg 37 Ikast 41 Hammeruni 44 Herning 48 Studsgaard 52 Kibeek 58 Troldhede 70 Skjern . This Rly. runs at first N.E., through a neighbourhood exceptionally rich in forests and lakes. On the rt., 3 m. N. of Aiken, is the church of Hover , with a similar tower to that of Skandrup (Rte. 8 ). 1 m. from By or Haven is the Ilimmelbjxrg (see below 1 ). Close to Aiken, on the 1., is the Mos So (6 m. long), the largest lake in Jutland. Passing a string of lakes (Fes So, Bymolle So, See.), to the 1., and offering fine views of the country, the train approaches the prettily situated little town of 7 m. Ry$£ (2 m. S.W. of its Stat.). Thence over a bridge between the lakes of Knud and Birlc to 11 m. Laven (Steamer to Silke- horg and Himmelbjerget). 19 m. Silkeborg (1500).S^ originally only a manor belonging to the bishops of Aarhus. One Bishop Peter was sailing on the lake, and considering which would be the best place for a manor-house, when the wind caught his silk cap and carried it into the sea. The prelate vowed that the manor- house should be built wherever the cap should be thrown upon the shore, and the house was thence called Silke¬ borg. The estate came to the crown at the Reformation, but the kings rarely visited it, and the so-called “ Slot” or Castle is a very insignificant building. In 1815, a large paper-mill was established here, around which has arisen a town. Silkeborg is situated in the valley of Guden-aa , the largest river in Denmark, which here expands into a series of lakes, surrounded by dense beech-woods or steep hills overgrown with heath. To lovers of wood and lake scenery the whole neighbourhood of Silkeborg is an inexhaustible source of delight. The country most worth exploring lies S.W., a little S. of the Rly., along the string of lakes through which flows the Gudenaa. Steamers thread the lakes as far as Haven (see above), whence the traveller may return to Silkeborg by train ; but the best and most independent way of enjoying the beautiful scenery is to take a small boat from Silkeborg, visiting the following points of view:—Boat to (2 m.) Thorns Hoi, on the S. bank of the Bras So; walk thence E. over the Tindbjxrg to the * Caroline Amalies Hoi (210 ft.). Descend N.W. in 20 min. to the landing-place on the narrow channel between the Bras So and Borre So, re-enter the boat, and row S. in hr. to the foot of the Kongestol 32 Route 13 .—Aarhus to Grenaa. (215 ft.), which may be ascended for the view. Thence walk E. to the top of the Aas (290 ft.), and descend N. to the (1 hr.) Fxrge (ferry), crossing the channel between the Borre So and the Jul So. 10 min. N. of the Ferry is the Stat. of Svejbxh , and 20 min. further N.E. rises the *Frederiks Hoi (370 ft.), a fine point of view. Finer still is the view from *Hogholt (335 ft.), rising immediately from the N. shore of the lake, g hr. S.E. Here the boat should be in waiting to convey the traveller S.E. across the Jul So to the foot of the *Himmel- bjaerg (480 ft.),^ whence the best general view of the entire district is obtained. S.S.E. of Silkeborg rises the Norre- shov, a group of wooded hills, to which the pedestrian may agreeably devote a long morning or afternoon. From the furthest E. point, the Louisehoi (240 ft.), he may descend in 20 min. to Ilattenxs and return to Silkeborg by steamer. Another half day may be devoted to the Vestershov, which lies S.W. of the town. The hills are reached at the (2 m.) Vandkuranstalt,s^ a Bathing Establishment on the E. shore of the little Orn So, whence the Flagstaff (300 ft.) may be ascended S. in £ hr., and the *Frederik VII*s Hoi (450 ft.) in another hour. The train now turns S.W., skirting the Vestershov on the 3., but soon bends again N. W., and afterwards runs due IV. to 37 m. Ikast.^X Dil. S.E. to (40 m.) Horsens (Rte. 8 ), passing through (19 m.) Norre Snede. 41 m. Hammerum,^ 3 m. N. is tlie interesting Church of Gjellerup (1140). 44 m. Herning (2400),the largest village in Denmark. Dil. W. to (30 m.) Ringhjobing, S.E. to (43 m.) Veile, N.W. to (23 m.) Holstcbro (Rte. 14). Carriage-road to Hjortsballe Hoi, Ho- gildgaard , and Arnborg (see below). Here the Rly. turns S.W. to 48 m. Studsgaard, 8 ^ in the centre oi a vast heath-district in course of re¬ clamation, and highly interesting to the agriculturist. The country may be explored by walking S.W. to (2 m.) Hjortsballe Hbje (260 ft.), whence a fine view is gained of the vast bog and moor; then S. by (4 m.) Hogildgaard to (7 m.) Birhebxh , where the track turns W. to (11 m.) Harreshov, and rejoins the Rly. less than 3 m. further at 52 m. Kibaek.^ Or, by taking a longer round, the traveller may de¬ scend the river Shjernaa from Hogild¬ gaard S. to (4 m.) Arnborg on the high road to Veile; thence S.W., still following the river, to (11 m.) Clasons- borg, whence a road of 8 m. leads N.W. to the Stat. at 58 m. Troldhede. Further on the Rly. crosses the N. arm of the Shjernaa , and runs nearly due W. to 70 m. Skjern, on the line between Ringkjobing and Esbjserg (Rte. 14). ROUTE 13. , AARHUS TO GRENAA. Miles. Stations. Routes. Aarhus .... 8 2 His Skov 11 Logten 14 Hornslet 18 Morke 21 Thor sager 24 Ryomgaard 3 Pindstrup 7 Auning 10 Allingaabro 14 Uggelhuse 16 Volk Molle 22 Handers 27 Kolind 35 Trustrup 38 Aalso 42 Grenaa This Rly., by means of its branch at Ryomgaard, offers a second though 33 J Route 13.— Logten —• Tliorsager. circuitous route from Aarhus to Randers, and passes several places of interest. Scarcely 2 m. from Aarhus (Rte. 8) is Ris Skov,8^ a pleasant holiday resort, worth a visit between two trains. The line runs nearly due N. to 11 m. Logten,whence a dil. starts every morning at 8.45 for (20 m.) Ebeltoft , passing (7 m.) Ronde.5 min. N.E. of the village rises the Kali > Bavnehoj (335 ft.), commanding a good view. A by-road leads in 20 min. S. from Ronde to the shores of the Kalb Vig, a pretty land-locked bay, out of which, on a little island connected with the mainland by a causeway, rise the considerable ruins of *Kalo Slot. Here was originally a monastery, but in 1313 a fortified Castle was built by King Erik Menved, which remained till 1672, when it was demolished in order to furnish mate¬ rials for Charlottenborg Palace, in Copenhagen. Amongst notable state prisoners who have been incarcerated here, we may mention Gustavus Vasa, who was brought hither in 1518, but escaped, and after having placed him¬ self at the head of the discontented Swedes, accomplished the final dis¬ ruption of the three Scandinavian kingdoms, and founded a new dy¬ nasty in Sweden (1523). A massive square tower and part of the outer wall remain. The view over the sea is fine. Soon after leaving Ronde the high road quits the shore, and turns S.E. past the ancient manor of (11 m.) Mollerup and the pretty old Church of (12 m.) Feldballe, from whence a by¬ road strikes 1. to (4 m.) Thirstrup, whose interesting Church has a very fine carved altar, and a remarkable sculptured stone pulpit, which must have been brought from abroad. Ebeltoft (1300)S^ is an insignificant little town, and the immediate neigh¬ bourhood is uninteresting, but the road from here to Grenaa leads through very pretty country. Half an hour’s walk from the town is a wood ( Skoven ) with a good view of the penin- Denmark. sula of Mols, whose inhabitants are celebrated in Danish popular tales on account of their supposed uncon¬ scionable naivete, not to say stupidity, of which there are scores of ludicrous anecdotes. The southern extremity of Mols is formed by Helgenses , which is only connected with the mainland by a narrow isthmus ; in ancient times the latter was defended by a wall of which vestiges remain, and it was also fortified during the late wars between Denmark and Germany. It was from here that General Rye, in 1849, after having been obliged to retire before the far more numerous German army, took ship with his whole corps, and suddenly appearing before Frederick, far in the rear of the enemy, won the battle of Frederick. The sea is very deep quite close to the coast of Hel¬ genses. Helgenses is said to have belonged to Marsh Stig, who murdered King Erik Glipping in 1286, and whose adherents afterwards caused much trouble and civil war. He is supposed to have raised the above-mentioned fortification across the isthmus. The deed of Marsk Stig, and the events connected with it, form the theme of a whole cycle of ancient ballads. The Rly., on quitting Logten, pro¬ ceeds N. through pretty country, pass¬ ing the lofty tower of Hornslet Church (14th to 16th cent.), in which is a fine altar adorned with alabaster and carved oak. Further on is the Stat. of 14 m. Hornslet.sgs To the rt. lies the old manor-house of Rosenholm (1569), the seat of the Rosenkrantz family, containing a neat little Chapel and some tapestries. Here the train turns E. to reach 18 m. Morke,S$ with a very old Church having curiously sculptured stones. Dil. thrice daily S.E. to (4 m.) Ronde (see above). Thence N.E.E. to 21 m. Thorsager.^2 Here is the finest and best preserved * Circular Church in Denmark, built on an isolated hill, D 34 Route 13.— Ryomgaard — Trustrup. which, in all probability, was a prin¬ cipal place of worship for the Scan¬ dinavian deity Thor. It was founded about 1200, by Bishop Peder Vagnsen of Aarhus, who also commenced the cathedral of his See. The round arch is exclusively used, and the brickwork is unusually well finished. 24 m. Ryomgaard Junct.,^2 whence a line runs W. to Panders, passing Pindstrup 2 m. S. of which is the fine manor-house of Skalfdgaard, with very peculiar buildings, dating from the 16th cent., and a famous piece of carved furniture made of an oak which is still standing with its roots in the ground underneath the cellar. The dimensions are 14 feet by 12. The branch line next reaches the Stat. of Auning.S^, 4 m. N.E. is the beautiful Park of Lovenholm, with wild stags in its woods. The train goes on to Allingaabro.gZ From this Stat. may be reached several Churches of interest, mentioned in “Rte. 8. A mile N. is Veilby, 3 m. beyond it, Orsted, and 5 m. further, Holbiek. From Uggel- 10 20 40 60 80 ft. Ground-plan of Pound Church, Thorsager. (From Marryat’s ‘Jutland and the Danish Isles.') Ilusg an excursion may be made S. to (7 m.) Klausholm (Rte. 8). The Church is very pretty, and contains the family sepulchre of the Counts of Sclieel, whose seat, Gammel Estrup, is about 2 m. N.W. This is one of the finest buildings in Denmark of the period of the Renaissance (1630), in a very picturesque position on one side of a broad valley. The estate has the peculiarity of never having been sold during the last 500 years, but it has only changed hands by inheritance. In the banqueting hall are woven tapestries of the 17th cent. A mile S. of Volk Stat. is Essenbsek , whose Church has a remarkable old font. The main line, on leaving Ryom¬ gaard, passes Kolind,s$ at the head of the Kolind Sund, originally a fjord but now an inland lake. 3 m. S.E. is the interesting Church of Nodager. Thence to 35 m. Trustrup,^2 3 m. N.W. of which is Lyngby , with a Norman Church worth visiting. Dil, from 35 Boute 14 .—Langaa to Lunderskov. Trustrup S.W. to (13 m.) Ebeltoft (see above). A pleasant excursion may be made due S. from Trustrup to (7 m.) Bugaard , and thence N. to (15 m.) Katholm —both fine old manor-houses, regaining the Rly. N.W. at (18 m.) Acdso. The train now turns N.E. to 42 m. Grenaa (2000),^ with an old restored church. 8 m. N. is Benzon, a fine old manor-house built about the year 1600, with beautiful park and woods; both from here and upon the whole from the coast near Grenaa the views over the sea are very fine. 3 m. W„ of it is the Church of Glxsborg , with a fine and large carved altar (1618). 5 m. N.W. of this is the manor-house of Meilgaard built in 1573, and sur¬ rounded by hills, from which the old red building with its woods and the sea in the background make a very charming panorama. In Aigliolm wood, close to the sea, is the celebrated kitchen-midden of Meilgaard, the first that was scienti¬ fically explored ; it was discovered in 1S50, and archaeologists, who bring their tools, are readily permitted to examine it. On the sea-shore itself are dunes of drifting sand overtopping the beeches and oaks of the forest, whose green tops often are seen peeping out of the sand. ROUTE 14. LANGAA TO LUNDERSKOV. Miles. Stations. lioutes. Langaa .... 8 4 Ulstrup 10 Bjerringbro 17 Rodkjaersbro 22 Rindsholm 27 Viborg 34 Sparkjaer 45 Skive 8 Jebjerg 11 Roslev 18 Glyngore 57 Vinderup 62 Struer .... 15 Miles. Stations. Eoutes. 75 Holstebro 87 Vemb 12 Ramnie 14 Bonnet 18 Lemvig 92 Ulfborg 106 Hee 111 Ringkjobing 126 Skjern .... 12 129 Tarm 157 Varde 168 Esbjerg 179 Bramminge . . 9 187 Hoisted 204 Lunderskov A roundabout journey, starting due W. from one Stat. on the main line between Vamdrup and Frederikshavn, and returning due E. to another. The 1. bank of the Gudenaa is ascended to 4 m. Ulstrup,with an old manor* house to the N., dating from the 16th cent., and enlarged in 1617. In the Court is a Runic Stone. 8 m. N.W. is Skjern Slot, an imposing Castle, once strongly fortified. The Rly. skirts the river as far as 10 m. Bjerringbro,^ where the Gudenaa bends away to the S., and continues W. to 17 m. Rodkjaersbro.^ Dil. S. to (16 m.) Silkeborg (Rte. 12), passing through (5| m.) Kjellerujp 3 m. N.W. of which is the old manor-house of Aunsbjxrg, finely surrounded with extensive woods. The Rly. now turns N.W. to 22 m. Rindsholm,prettily situated in a wooded country. On the left lies the Ved So. 27 m. VIEORG (8600),£s one of the oldest and most remarkable towns in Denmark. Vebjerg (sacred hill) was the capital of Jutland, the principal seat of national worship, the place where the national assemblies were held, kings elected, and laws given, ages before the era of written history. d 2 36 Route 14.— Viborg — Skive. The first Danish coins were struck here, and here the Reformation in Denmark took its beginning. No town in Denmark is so intimately connected with the history of the Danish realm through the whole of the Middle Ages. It has now lost its ancient splendour, and the population has diminished. Only two churches out of twelve remain, of which one, Sondersogns Kirke, formerly belonged to a Dominican monastery of 1230, but was rebuilt in 1728 after a fire. It possesses a very fine 15th cent, altar, originally at Frederiksborg. The ^Cathedral, which deserves the special attention of lovers of architec¬ ture, is 76 yds. long, 33 wide, and was founded in the early part of the 11th cent., but rebuilt between 1130 and 1170. It was restored in 1873 at a cost of 35,000?. It consists of a nave and aisles, transepts, and an exquisite circular E. apse, with ex¬ terior open gallery. The style is purely Norman with round arches, and a timber roof over the nave. The chancel is raised, and under it is a very interesting Crypt, untouched since it was built. This Church is one of the finest specimens of Norman architecture on the continent. Fre¬ quent fires and restorations have destroyed almost everything in the way of monuments and church fur¬ niture, but the tomb of King Erik dipping, murdered in the neigh¬ bouring village of Finderup in 1286, by Marsk Stig, was only partially damaged by the fire of 1726. For more than four centuries after that deed, a special service called Vaade- sangen, “ the song of woe,” was per¬ formed daily in the crypt. One of the few remaining relics is a coloured seven-branched candelabrum, which originally came from Liibeck in 1494. It is 9 feet high, of brass, and rests on three lions. There is a small but interesting Museum of Northern Antiquities in the Council Chamber near the Cathe¬ dral. 6 m. S. (carriage 8 kr.) is Hald. The drive goes first across open heath formerly dense forest, of which re¬ mains are still in existence round the Lake of Hald, one of the most beauti¬ ful spots in Denmark. The *Castle of Hald is a classic locality in me¬ diaeval Danish history, and number¬ less ballads and legends refer to it; but of the old buildings only ruins are now left. Since 1868, in June and July, the heath near this lake has been regularly used for camps, where several thousand men are brought together at a time for military ma¬ noeuvres. § m. further, very prettily situated on the lake, is Bsehhelund.^, Beyond the smiling environs of Hald, the Ahlhede ( All Neath), the most desolate tract in Jutland, spreads far and wide, and from some of the hills, particularly Dollerup Batcher (9 m. from Viborg) or Lyshoi (310 ft.). 2 m. further, there are highly interesting and characteristic views. The train continues N.W. to 45 m. Skive (3800),^2 prettily situated at the head of its deep fjord. 12 m. N.W.W. of Skive is the manor- house of Spottrup (carriage 8 to 10 kr.), near the Sound, which divides Sailing from Mors. It was built in the 16th cent., with double moats, and is perhaps the best specimen in Den¬ mark of a fortified nobleman’s seat of the Middle Ages; but it is unfor¬ tunately in a somewhat dilapidated state. [Branch Rly. N. to Glyngore whence a steam ferry crosses to Nyhjobing on the Island of Mors. Thence to (18 m.) Thisted (Rte. 15), crossing the water again at Vildsund. On this branch line, 6 m. N.E. of Jebjserg ,J$ or 4 m. E. of Roslev.fig is the interesting old granite Church of Grinderslev Kloster. Nykjobing (3700),$$ the only com¬ mercial town in the treeless but fertile island, lies upon a tiny bay on the E. side of Mors.. Its oldest Church, dating from 1664, is now desecrated, and serves as a private dwelling. The N. extremity of the island is called Fseggehlit , and presents an im¬ posing cliff when seen from Faegge- 37 Route 14.— Vinderup—Tarm, sund. The name is derived from a mythical King Fengo , or Fegge, who killed his own brother Haavdevendel, with whom he shared the dominion, and married his widow. But the mur¬ dered king’s son, Hamlet , avenged the deed by killing Fengo; and this is one of the several local traditions in Denmark which form the substratum of Saxo’s story, and afterwards served Shakespeare for a theme. The place of Fegge’s castle and his grave are shown. Of such old camps or forti¬ fied places, there is a very great number on the island. 5 m. S. of Nykjobing is Hoiris, an interesting old manor-house in good repair. There is a very fine ban¬ queting hall, and as the moats are full of water, and the new buildings kept in the old style, the mediteval charac¬ ter is well preserved. An old tradition says that once on a time the lord of Hoiris discovered a criminal con¬ nection between his wife and some friend ; he ordered her to be immured in the castle, and the faithless friend to be drowned in the moat. This old legend has by accident been-verified; for some time ago a part of the wall between two windows in the hall fell down and disclosed a cell in the thickness of the wall lined with oak timber, and containing a female skeleton; and that of a man was soon after found in the moat. The pretty Church of Lorslev, a mile S.W., con¬ tains splendid monuments to the memory of former owners of Hoiris.] Our line now turns S.W. to 57 m. Vinderup.S^ 3 m. E. is Sal, with a granite Church containing a fine old font and a beautiful altar of gilt copper wrought in relief. 3 m. N. of the Stat. is the Church of Eising (12th or 13th cent.), and 4 m. S.W. lies Rydhave manor, with fine 16th cent, buildings and garden. The train now skirts the shore of the Vend Bugt , and reaches 62 m. Struer (2400).S$ whence a Rly. runs N. to Thisted. Here the main line strikes due S. to 75 m. Holstebro (3900), an old town which has suffered much from fire, and then turns abruptly W. to 87 m. Vemb.S^ [Branch Ely. N. to Lemvig (2000), on the S. shore of Nissum Bredning, passing Bonnet, 5 m. W. of which is Bovbjerg, a re¬ markable cliff 192 ft. in height. 3 m. S. of Lemvig ^ is the very interesting old granite Church of Bomb.] Our Ely. now strikes S. again, and passes close to the old manor of Norre Vos- borg. 92 m. Ulfborg.^2 5 m. W. is the interesting old granite Church of Staby. There is another such further on at Hee, near the large Stadilfjord, which is being reclaimed by an Eng¬ lish company. Ill m. Ringkj6bing(2300),£^ at the N.E. corner of Ringkjobing Fjord, which has the appearance of a lake separated from the sea by a narrow strip of land, and perforated by a narrow channel which is constantly changing its position. Dil. in a straight line E. to (30 m.) Herning (Ete. 12). 7 m. W. of Ringkjobing lies the bathing-place of Sijndervig,^ a good centre for visiting the Stadil Fjord, which extends to within 3 m. of the village towards the N.E. S. of Son- dervig stretches the Klitter, a long narrow strip of land which bounds the Ringkjobing Fjord on the W. side, and runs down through (7 m.) Lyngvig and (21 m.) Bjerregaard 8$ to (24 m.) Nymindegab,8$ where the narrow en¬ trance to the fjord is crossed by a ferry, and the road turns S.E. to (30 m.) Norre Nebel.%% Thence S.S.E. to (44 m.) Varde & (see below). The Rly. now runs S.E. to 126 m. Skjern,^ [Rly- N.E. to Herning'] and crosses the Lonborg Aa, to 129 m. Tarm,8$ a considerable vil¬ lage. Dil. S.W. to (17 m.) Norre Nebel, S.E. to (46 m.) Veile. 38 Boute 15 .—Struer to TJiisted. 157 m. Varde (4300).8$ The ori¬ ginal name of Varde was War with, and it is mentioned as early as the 12th cent. The neighbourhood is flat and treeless, like most of the W. part of Jutland. Dil. W. to (23 m.) Blaavands Huk,8$ a primitive bathing-place on the ex¬ treme W. point of Jutland. The road traverses the Bor dr up Klilplantage, interesting to agriculturists. Dil. N.W. through (14 m.) Norre Nebel to (19 m.) Nymindegab (see above), 4 m. S.W. of which rises the Blaabjerg (210 ft.), commanding an extensive view over the flat country. Dil. N.E.E. in 10 hrs. to (49 m.) Veile, passing through (23 m.) Grindsted. 168 m. Esbjerg (5200),8^ where is a large harbour for the export trade of agricultural produce to England (see Rte. 2). Steamer S.W. in J hr. to Nordhy (2600),8^ a bathing-place on the Island of Fano, the northernmost of that series which gird the coast of South Jutland. 2 m. W. of Nordby lies Fano Bad,s^ a capital bathing-place on the North Sea. The women of Fano do all the work on shore, whilst the men are away on the sea; they have a pretty costume, and wear masks to protect them against the sun while ploughing and reaping. Near (10 m.) Sonderho,^ at the S. end, are several Fuglekojer, like those on the Frisian islands (Rte. 10). The train now turns due E., passing 178 m. Bramminge Junct.8^ (for Ribe), and maintains the same direc¬ tion, passing the large village of Hoi¬ sted,^ as far as 200 m. Lunderskov (Rte. 8). ROUTE 15. STRUER TO THISTED. Miles. Stations. Route. Struer , 14 4 Humlum 8 Oddesund Syd 9 Oddesund Nord 14 Hvidbjerg 22 Ydby 24 Hurup 29 Bedsted 37 Snedsted 41 Sjorring 46 Ihisted The Rly. runs N.N.W., crossing an arm of the Limfjord by a long bridge, and reaching the shores of the Nissum Bredning at 4 m. Humlum.8^ Dil. W. in 3 hrs. to (14 m.) Lemvig. Soon afterwards the Oddesund is crossed by a steam ferry. The latter is said to be named after Otho the Great, who hurled his spear into the sea on his arrival so far north. The train now proceeds to 22 m. Ydby,^2 whence a Dil. runs N.W. in an hour to (4 m.) Vestervig (see below). 24 m. Hurup.^2 Dil. E. to (19 m.) Nyltjobhig (Rte. 14), crossing the Ntes- sund or Thy by ferry. Dil. W. to (5 m.) Vestervig.8^ Here was the Ves- tervighloster, one of the most remark¬ able ecclesiastical institutions in Den¬ mark, founded in 1110, of which now only the Church remains, an imposing structure (200 ft. long) built of granite. There are several sculptured stones, of which one doubtless repre¬ sents the patron saint of the monastery, St. Thoger. In the churchyard is a huge tombstone with two crosses and a marginal inscription in very old character, now illegible. Tradition, however, says that under it rest the sister of King Valdemar I., called Liden Kirstin in the ballads, and her 39 Route 16 .—Aalborg to Thisted. lover, Prince Buris, who seduced her. The king killed his unhappy sister, and the Prince was cruelly tortured and imprisoned for life; but they were eventually, according to the ballad, buried in one grave. The sepulchre in question is really double, and contains the bones of a man and a woman. 4 m. S. is the Agger Canal, which leads from the large inland lake or fjord of the Nissum Bredning, into the North Sea. A narrow strip of land bounds the fjord on the W., through which the sea from time to time forms openings, which again close up. It is certain that the communication was open in the 11th cent., because it was through this that St. Kanut intended to sail with the large fleet which he had collected with a view of landing in England and wresting its Crown from William the Conqueror, when the latter by means of bribery frustrated the plan. But Saxo Grammaticus, who wrote about 1200, says that at that time there was no outlet. The present opening was made in a tre¬ mendous gale, accompanied by a high tide, on the 3rd of Feb., 1825, and the channel then formed is still open. The protecting sand-hills were de¬ stroyed at the same time, and the sea is constantly encroaching. Three villages have already been swallowed by the waves, and the place where the Church of Agger stood is now far in the sea. The village of Agger lies 4 m. W. of Yestervig, and may be reached by carriage from the hotel. 29 m. Bedsted.^ Dil. S.W. to (6 m.) Vestervig. 41 m. Sjorring.S^ Here is a Church with a remarkable monument, said to be of that of Bp. Magnus of Borglum, drowned near Tvorup on the way from Bremen in 1065. Quite close by is Sjorring Void , the remains of an ancient Royal castle. On the left stretches the dry bed of the Sjorring So, formerly an inlet from the sea, now drained, and converted into grazing land of amazing fertility. Everywhere barrows, dolmens, old camps, and fortifications meet the eye, and many of the old Danish ballads refer to this neighbourhood. 46 m. Thisted (5400),prettily situated on the N. shore of Thisted Bredning, has become a thriving town since 1825, when the formation of the Agger Canal again opened communica¬ tion with the North Sea. The Church is handsome, with fine altarpiece and pulpit. 12 m. N.W. lies the bathing- place of Klitmoller,^ (Dil. daily in 2J hrs.). Dil. or steamer E. to Aalborg (Rte. 15). 12 m. N. of Thisted is the town of Hansted,S$ with its adjacent lighthouse of Hanstholm Fyr, The coast here affords a very striking- illustration of the peculiar character¬ istics of the country—everywhere isolated groups of hills are surrounded by level meadows, evidently old arms of the sea, and the local names confirm in the most unmistakable manner the belief that Thyland was in the Middle Ages an archipelago. A frequent phenomenon here is the so-called Jordfald, when the ground suddenly gives way and falling in forms a sort of caldron. It is here, and in the island of Mors close by, that earth¬ quakes are felt more than in any other part of Denmark, and the geological strata bear witness of violent revolu¬ tions. The island of Mors may be explored from Thisted by carriage S. to the ferry at (6 m.) Vildsund , and thence to (12 m.) Nylcjobing (Rte. 14). ROUTE 16. AALBORG TO THISTED, BY STEAMER, THROUGH THE AGGERSUND, OR BY CARRIAGE-ROAD. Crossing the Limfjord at Aalborg, the road and Rly. reach 2 m. Norre Sundbys^ (Rte. 8), whence the latter continues N., while the former strikes N.W. past the old 40 Route 16 .— Aabybro — Svinklov. moated manor-house of (5 m.) Rodslet (16th cent.) to 14 m. Aabybro. 2 m. E. is the boundary of the Vildmose, an exten¬ sive moor covering about 50 sq. m., and entirely impassable, as the greater part of it has the character of a quag¬ mire. It appears that at the bottom trees are standing erect, proving that it owes its existence to a subsidence of the ground, which is so much the more remarkable, because the whole of this country has been subjected to an upheaval in historic times. About 1 m. S.W. of Aaby is the manor of Birkelse, with a beautiful garden. The road now runs a little S. of W. to 33 m. Fjerritslev, chief town of the Hanherreder, a strip of land between the Limfjord and the North Sea, con¬ necting Vendsyssel with Thy land. Thence W. to 44 m. Bjerget, and S.W. to 61 m. Thisted (Rte. 15). Dil. daily from Aalborg in 13 hrs. (7§ lu\). Another road runs S. of the fjord from Aalborg to 17 m. Nibe (1500),strikes S. to Slcjorbek, and turns W. again to 36 m. Logstor (see below). Dil. daily from Aalborg in 7 hrs. (4 kr. 20 6 .). Most travellers, however, will prefer the steamer from Aalborg through the Aggersund to Logstor, and from thence to Thisted; and as the objects of interest which lie along the road may be conveniently visited from the Inn at the Aggersund, they are described in the reverse direction below. The Limfjord, which at Aalborg has a width of 600 yards, and on the whole course from its mouth at Hals, on the Kattegat, to (17 m.) Aalborg, scarcely ever exceeds a mile in width, widens almost at once W. of Aalborg into the Nibe Bredning, containing a number of small islands and three larger ones, Egholm, Gjol, and Oland. The latter is rich in beautiful timber, and will be noticed below. The Breding (or Broad ) derives its name from the little town of Nibe, on the S. shore, where the steamer stops. Further W. the fjord again becomes narrower, the width being reduced to 300 yards at the Aggersund ,8$ where is a ferry. Nearly opposite Aggersborg, an old royal residence W. of the Inn at the ferry, is Logstor,!^ a new place of 1500 Inhab., which no doubt soon will become an important town. The navi¬ gation of the Fjord is very difficult here on account of sand-banks, and a canal has therefore been cut about 2j m. long, whereby these are avoided. 5 m. E. of Logstor is Sailing, with a beautiful granite church of the 12th cent. From the Aggersund three excur¬ sions may be recommended—to Oland, to Svinklov, and to Bulbjerg. The road to Oland (see above) leads N.E. through the village of (4 m.) Beistrup, from which the fine crom¬ lechs at Gundelstrup may be visited. Thence by (3 m.) liaverslev to (5 m.) Kokkedal, a beautiful old manor-house in a charming situation. Passing (4 m.) Bratskov , another old manor- house, and turning S, to the Church of (3 m.) Brovst, with a very fine pic¬ ture and some beautiful old vestments, we reach (2 m.) Oxeby, whence a road leads to Oland. The sound is very shallow, and in most places a man can wade over; in 1857 a labourer in doing so discovered a massive gold ring, worth 130Z., which is now in the Museum of Northern Autiquities in Copenhagen. According to tradition, a naval battle was fought here in very remote times. The manor-house of Oxltolm on the Island was formerly the 12th cent. Convent of Okloster, and the fine church is still tolerably well preserved. The woods (nearly 1000 acres) are delightful, but it is necessary to bring provisions, as there is no inn, although there are two large villages. To Svinkiov, a very remarkable and Route 16 .— Fur. 41 picturesque chain of chalk-hills on the N. coast, the road runs N. by Skjxrpingegaard with a fine Jsettestue, past the very old manor of (8 m.) Aa- gaard, with numerous barrows, camps, &c., which abound in the whole of this tract. Near Aagaard is St. Jorgensbjerg, where a great battle in 1442 was fought between the ever rebellious peasants and king Chris¬ topher, in which the latter was vic¬ torious, mainly because the men from Thyland and Mors deserted their comrades the Vendelboers. An old ballad describing the event is still preserved, and to this day the latter taunt the traitors with their conduct on that occasion. 3 m. further N. is Fjerritslev, whence the road leads N.E. to (5 m.) Hjortsdal, just inside the hills. From the heights fine views are gained over the Jammerbugt or Bay of Woe, where numerous wrecks stretching their black ribs out of the sand tell a mournful tale of frequent disaster. E. of the cliff is Lerup, where the carriage should be left in order to explore on foot the Fossedal, a deep and picturesque valley. Through the valley of Langdalen we return to Lerup, and thence to Aggersund past Bratskov and Kokkedal (see above). The excursion occupies the whole day, but repays the traveller. Bulbjerg is a similar clitf to Svinlclbv, and about 12 m. further W.; in front of the cliff is Skarreklit, an isolated rock 60 feet high, round which the sea rushes foaming and thundering, whenever the wind is high. The distance from Aggersund is about 17 miles, and there are two roads, the ordinary high-road and a side road along a new dyke which has been thrown across the Bygholm Veile, a shallow inlet, formerly a sound connecting the Limfjord with the North Sea, but now almost dry. In any case, it is convenient to stop at Bjergets Kro, an inn about 2 m. from Bulbjerg, and leave the horses there. West of Logstor the Limfjord widens considerably, forming the Logstor and Liv Bredning. To the S. are seen the high cliffs of the Island of Fur. E. of Fur a branch of the sea penetrates southward about 15 m. inland as far as Skive; to the W. Sallingsund, which in parts is very narrow, separates the peninsula of Sailing, behind Fur, and formerly itself an island, from the island of Mors, which bounds Logstor Bredning to the west. The numerous alter¬ nating sounds and Brednings give to the Limfjord a very peculiar character, and the whole country bears the most unmistakable stamp of being, as it were, only half emerged from the sea. The cliffs at Fur, Mors, and other places, consist of Moleer, appa¬ rently a kind of clay, but entirely consisting of the shells of Biatomaceee. The steamer crosses the Logstor Bred¬ ning in a straight line W. from Lbg- stor to the Fseggesund, and reaches Thisted. ( 42 ) PART III. FYEN. LIST OF KOUTES. ROUTE PAGE 17. Hamburg to Copenhagen, by 'Fredericia, Tommerup, Odense, Nyborg, and Kor- sor—The Land Route. Rail and Steam-ferry .... 42 ROUTE PAGE 18. Odense to Bogense. Rail . 45 19. Odense to Faaborg and Svendborg. Rail . . . 45 R 0 U T E S. ROUTE 17. FREDERICIA TO NYBORG. [HAMBURG TO COPENHAGEN, BY FREDE¬ RICIA, ODENSE, NYBORG, AND KORSOR.] Miles. Stations. Routes. Fredericia . Strib . 8 3 Middelfart 9 Norre Aaby 12 Eiby 18 Aarup 21 Bred 25 Tommerup 10 Flemlose 14 Ebberup 18 Assens 34 Odense . 18,19 40 Marslev 43 Langeskov 45 TJllerslev 52 Nyborg By a combination of Rtes. 8, 17, and 20, Copenhagen may be reached from Hamburg in a long day of 13 hrs., starting at 8.20 a.m. Through fare, 1st cl., 44 marks 10 pf.; 2nd cl., 31 m. 90 pf. Return, within 10 days, G2 m. 40 pf. and 45 m. 20 pf. Distance, in¬ cluding the two steam ferries, 320 m. Hand luggage examined at Vamdrup; good Buffet at Fredericia. Fyen, which is separated from Zealand by the Great Belt and from Schleswig by the Little Belt, is one of the most fertile and best cultivated parts of Denmark, agreeing in its natural properties and general aspect with Zealand. The special points of interest are Odense, the magnificent Parks of Glorup, Trolleborg, and Valdemar’s Slot near Svendborg, and the trip round the Island of Taasinge in the same neighbourhood by steamer. From a side line at Fredericia Stat. a train conveys passengers to the steamer, a distance of only a few yds. The passage across the Little Belt occupies about l hr., but there is a^ long delay at Strib, on the coast of Fyen, before the departure of the train. The landing-place lies quite isolated, and the Rly. runs thence to 3 in. Middelfart (3100),8$ an ancient 43 Route 17 .—Nor r town, and the seat of the oldest guild in Denmark, that of the dolphin- hunters ( Marsvinej&gere). A great number of these animals, which during the winter arrive in shoals, are killed annually. Before the construction of the Ely., the channel was crossed between Middelfart and (1£ m. N.W.) Snoglidi. The park of *IIindsgavl, situated on a peniu- sula, If m. W., and open to the public (as indeed are most of the large parks in Denmark), is a beautiful point of view. S. of Hindsgavl is the little Island of Faeno, thickly wooded on the N. side, and worth a visit between two small steamers which ply on the Fjord from Middelfart to Kolding (Rte. 8). This excursion is highly recommended. 9 m. Norre Aaby. Pleasant walk N. through the Baaring Skov (fine view over the bay), and then E. through Skovhdirup to Eiby —a round of 17 m. 12 m. Eiby. 7 m. S.W. lies the in¬ teresting manor-house of Wedellsborg, prettily situated on a promontory, with charming views over the Little Belt. The train proceeds through a rich and undulating district to 18 m. Aarup.$ Dil. S. to (12 m.) Assens. 21 m. Bred. 3 m. N.E. is Vissen- bjerg, commanding a very fine view. 25 m. Tommerup.$ [Branch Ely. S.W. to Assens (4000),$ on the Little Belt. There is a good view from the Ceme¬ tery, which contains two fine monu¬ ments to the soldiers who fell in 1848 and 1864. Excursions may be made to the woods of Fredriksgave and the Church of Dreslette (3 m. further E.), with a fine view from its Observatory-tower. The manor-house of Frederiksgave lies only 1| m. S. of the Ely. Stat. at Ebberup ,$ 4 m. S. of j Aaby — Odense. Tommerup rises the Frobjxrg Bavne - hoi (435 ft.), the highest point in Fyen, commanding an extensive view.] 34 m. ODENSE (31,000)$ is one of the oldest towns in Denmark, the original name being Odinsve , a place sacred to Odin, the principal deity of the heathen Scandinavians. It is a flourishing place, and the population has nearly trebled in this century. Immediately opposite the Central Stat. (see Rte. 19) a short cut for pedestrians leads into the town, skirting a Public Garden. At the point where the telegraph wires leave the path, tlio traveller keeps straight on, crosses the road, and finds standing back on the left in the Skolegade the Museum (Free on Sun. and Wed., 12 to 3 ; open to strangers at any time, 50 ore), containing a good Collection of Northern Antiquities, and particu¬ larly strong in specimens of the Stone age. Ground floor on the 1., pre¬ historic curiosities, bronzes, silver goblets, weapons; to the rt., flint implements, very curious and large. First floor, casts and a few stuffed birds; second floor, insects, shells, birds, eggs, and animals, with a small but interesting series of coins. Continuing in the same direction, and turning to the 1. through the first busy street, on the rt, is reached an open space near the cathedral, with a bronze Statue of King Frederik VII., by Bissen, representing the king giving the Charter of 1848, which is still the constitution of Denmark. The Protestant Cathedral, or Church of St. Canute, is open from April to Sept, from 4 to 6 p.m., and in Oct. and Nov. from 9 to 11. The sacristan attends at these hours to show the Choir, Crypt, and Chapels (1 kr. for one to six persons). Knud, the na¬ tional Saint of Denmark, was a grand¬ nephew of Canute the Great, and ascended the throne in 1080. He collected a large fleet and army with which he intended to dispute with William of Normandy the conquest of England. But the emissaries of 44 Boute 17 .— Marslev. William having succeeded by bri¬ bery in creating insubordination in the army, it separated before the king’s arrival. This gave rise to bad feeling between him and many of his subjects, on whom he inflicted severe punishments. An insurrec¬ tion broke out, and he was killed in 1086 at Odense in the Church of St. Albanus, while kneeling before the altar. He was canonised in 1101 as the first Danish martyr, and buried the next year with great pomp in this church, which he had begun to build, but which was finished after liis death. The Church is a fine specimen of early pointed Gothic brick architec¬ ture, but is at least two centuries later than Canute’s church, and the spire cannot be earlier than the 16th cent. Even the shafts and mullions are of brick, having no capitals ; and the whole is effectively relieved by glazed black tiling. Over the high altar is a very re¬ markable carved ^triptych by Claus Berg, 16 ft. high, 20 ft. broad, when open, with more than 300 figures, and more than 300 sq. ft. of surface. The famous artist, a native of Liibeck, made this altarpiece for the Grey- friars Church, at the expense of Queen Christina, towards the close of the 15th cent. The latter very fine Church having been demolished in 1806, the altarpiece was placed in the Frueskirche, and removed hither in 1884. Each wing is divided into eight compartments, illustrating scenes in the life of our Lord. In the centre are the Coronation of the Virgin, the Crucifixion, and the Nativity, with other subjects. Below is a predella, with Royal Danes and donors adoring the risen Saviour. The shrine of St. Canute, in the semi-crypt, is a singular example of Romanesque woodwork. The pall was worked by his queen. Near it, on the S. side, is a similar tomb of his brother Benedict, who gallantly de¬ fended him, and fell at his side. Both are of oak, and were formerly covered with gold and silver plate and jewels, stolen by the Swedes. On the 1., at the end of the crypt, is a marble slab removed from another Church, and set up on end, bearing the effigy of King John II. and his wife (1513), rudely carved. In the upper Church, at the end of the rt. aisle, is a chapel containing a fine monument by Qui- linus to General Hans Ahlefeldt, who distinguished himself at the siege of Copenhagen in 1658. Also some curious sarcophagi of wood, iron, and gilt bronze, containing the remains of other members of the same family. To the 1. of the high altar is the monument of Countess Skofgaard (1613), surrounded by 16 armorial bearings. At No. 3 in the Munkemolle Stride, S.W. of the Church, is a slab indicating the house in which the poet H. C. Andersen, whose tales are so well known in England, was born in 1805. He was the son of a cobbler. The Frueskirke, at the E. end of the town, is a fine building of red brick dating from the 12th cent., and the oldest in Odense. St. Hans Kirlce is a good example of Gothic brickwork. There are pretty walks along the river, to 1 Fruens Bdge,’ a beech plantation, and to Naesbylioved on the road to Bogense, where is a tumulus dedicated to Odin, besides ruins of a castle, and a pleasing view. A small steamer plies to Fruens Bdge.8$ (For the Rly. see Rte. 19.) 8 m. N.W. of Odense is the Komigjen Iiro, a roadside Inn, f m. S. of which lies the fine manor-house of Langeso, in a pretty situation on a lake. The train proceeds to 40 m. Marslev, 4 m. S. of which, in the church at Fraugde, is the sepul¬ chre of Thomas Kingo , son of a Scotch weaver, who settled in Denmark in the 17th cent. He was a celebrated com¬ poser of church hymns, of which very many are still in use ; he died as a bishop at Fraugde manor-house, which belonged to him. On the 1., half-wny between this and the following Stat., is Birhende , the birthplace of Hans Tausen, the principal of the Danish Reformers. J Routes 18, 19 .—Odense to Bogense, Faaborg , and Svendborg. 45 45 m. Ullerslev.^2 Dil. N. to (8 m.) Kjerteminde (2500), 5 m. S.W. of which is the fine manor-house of TJlriksholm (1646). 7 m. N. of the town lies Schelenborg, and 3 m. further Brocltdorff, both with beautiful gar¬ dens. 5 m. beyond Brockdorff we reach Fynshoved, the highest N. point of the peninsula of Hindeholm, with a fine sea view. Near Mcirtofte, between Schelenborg and Brockdorff, are seve¬ ral important and interesting Tumuli. 52 m. Nyborg (6000) was a for¬ tress up to 1869, but the ramparts now serve as a promenade. The red brick Gothic Church (1388-1429) is interesting, but is always closed ; and the sacristan, as everywhere in Den¬ mark, expects a crown for opening the door. The neighbourhood is rich and pretty, and a walk to the ancient manor-house of Holchenhavn (2 m. S., crossing a ferry), with fine chapel and good carvings, is well worth the trouble. Opposite the Stat., a sign-post in¬ dicates the path to the Bad Hotel. Following it for five minutes, a re¬ markably pretty Cemetery, planted as a garden, is passed on the left. On reaching the road beyond it, we still turn to the rt., pass under the Ely., and soon enter a dense wood of tall straggling beeches. At the end of the wood, close to the Great Belt, is the Hotel, a favourite resort in summer for sea-bathing, and a cheap Pension. It offers a pleasant stroll of 20 min. from the Stat., and a quiet bathe may be had from the shore close by. Steamer in 1J hr. to (17 m.) Korsor for Copenhagen (Rte. 20). The old high road between Nyborg and (23 m.) Svendborg passes several fine manor-houses, and is strongly recommended. It crosses the ferry to Holcheidiavn and runs S. to (7 m.) Oxen- drup.s^ On the rt. is the magnificent Park of *Glorup (Rte. 19). The road goes on to (9 m.) Hesselager near which is the curious * Damesten , 50 yds. in circumference and 42 ft. high. The church and manor-house are both worth seeing. For a fuller description oft he road, see Rte. 19. ROUTE 18. ODENSE TO BOGENSE. Miles. Stations. Routes. Odense ... 17, 19 3 Naesby 10 Otterup 13 Kappendrup 24 Bogense On quitting Odense, the Rly. crosses a long bridge, and runs N. through a flat treeless country to 3 m. Naesby.^ The wooded hill near the Stat. was once crowned by a Castle. A glimpse of the Fjord is ob¬ tained on the rt. before reaching 10 m. Otterup, where the line turns N.W. to 13 m. Kappendrup. The course is now due W. nearly all the way to 24 m. Bogense (1900),8$ an old town with a tiny harbour on the Lille Belt. From the hill, on which stands the Church, there is a pretty view across to the wooded Island of (7 m.) iEbelo, and further left to the (16 m.) Bjorns- Knade, a promontory on the S.E. coast of Jutland. ROUTE 19. ODENSE TO FAABORG AND SVENDBORG. Miles. Stations. Routes. Odense . . 17, 18 3 Fruens Boge 9 Aarslev 13 Ringe 7 Hoirup 11 Korinth 19 Faaborg 18 Kvaerndrup 22 Stenstrup 29 Svendborg From the S. Station at Odense the 46 Boute 19 .—Aar dev — Svendborg. train runs S.W. to Fruens Eoge (Rte. 17), and thence a little E. of S. to 9 m. Aarslev.^2 5^ m. W. is the manor-house of Sobysogaard, prettily situated on the Sobyso. The building was modernized in the last century, but has been restored in its original style, with pointed gables and spire- capped turrets. 13 m. Ringed A pleasant drive may be taken from this village to Glorup (see below), proceeding N.E. by Tbistrup to the fine Park of (5 m.) Ravnholt, and thence S.E. to (3 m.) Lykkesholm, formerly called Magelund, after an old Castle which still exists on the banks of a prettily wooded lake. Beautiful walks lead through the grounds. From this point the road leads E. to the handsome manor-house of (2 m.) Orbseklunde (see below), and turns S.E. to (5 m.) Glorup. From Ringe a branch line turns S.W. to Faaborg , passing Korinth.l ^ 2 m. N.E. of which is the interesting old country seat of *Brahetrolleborg, with a fine Park and Gardens. 2| m. N.W. on a pretty lake lies the beautiful manor-house and Park of Arreskov. The Castle, destroyed in 1264, was rebuilt in 1573, and has been restored. Thence to Faaborg (3800), ^ on the Little Belt, where is a 15th cent. Church, having twenty finely carved Choir-stalls, and a handsome altar of 1511. At the high altar is a painting of Christ at Emmaus, by Marstand. 3 m. W. is the manor-house of Hvedholm (1590), and 2 m. further is the exceedingly interesting Church of Horne, origi¬ nally circular, with an added chancel and a Gothic tower. 4 m. E. is the beautiful Park of Holstenhus, near which is the hill of Kongshoi , com¬ manding a fine view. Opposite Faaborg is the island of Lyo, where Valdemar II. was captured and carried away by Count Henrik of Schwerin in 1223. The main line continues nearly due S. to 18 m. Kvaerndrup. 2 m. W. is the fine old mansion and Park of *Fgeskov. Thence through very attractive scen¬ ery to Svendborg (see below). A steam ferry crosses the Sound to the Island of Taasinge, where the chief points of interest are the view from the tower of Bregninge Church, and * Valdemar''s Slot, a Castle on the E. coast. The ferry plies at the half hours, re¬ turning at the hours (10 o.). From the landing-place at Vindeby a road ascends gently S. to (3 m.) Breg- ninge (240 ft.), the tower of whose Church commands a justly celebrated *view (25 o.). From hence the tra¬ veller may easily trace out the direc¬ tion of the cross-roads which will lead him E. to (3 m.) Valdemar’s Slot, the high road making a long circuit. The *Castle is vast and imposing, and is surrounded by a magnificent Park and beautifully laid-out Gardens. Outside the E. gateway there is a pretty walk along the shore of the Fjord. Hence a good road leads N. to (1 m.) Tro ense,^ where a small steamer touches three times a day, reaching Svendborg by way of Christiansminde and the fine woods and garden of Bestehaven, in j hr. Or the pedestrian may con¬ tinue N.W. along the bank of the Sound to (£ m.) Frederiksstad, and thence to (2 m.) Vindeby, recrossing the ferry to Svendborg. By landing at Christiansminde (see above) a charming walk of hr. will take the traveller back to Svendborg by way of the Villas Bella Vista and Bellevue, the rising ground at Orkil Bakke (fine view), the pleasure-resort of Caroline Amalie Lund, and the Ovinehoi (170 ft.). 29 m. Svendborg (Rte. 8). Some of the country seats which may be visited from hence are surrounded by *Parks and gardens which can hardly be matched in England. They are best seen by taking a carriage from Svend¬ borg to (23 m. N.) Nyborg. There are two roads, but the points of interest may be mostly combined; or the tra¬ veller can go by one and return by the other. The E. or old road, nearest the 47 Route 19 .— JErd — Spodsbjserg. coast, passes (8 m.) Broholm, with three pretty spires. 3 in. E. of the village is the small bathing-place of Lundeborg.%^ on the sea. (Steamer to Nyborg.) We next reach the manor-house of (4 m.) Hesselagergaard (1538), near which is the Damesten , the largest boulder in Denmark, 42 ft. above ground, and 56 yds. in circumference. The house stands back to the rt. of the road, 2 m. N. of Lundeborg. Thence by Kongs- lcoi Hammervxrk, prettily situated in a deep valley, where a little river affords water-power for several mills, and past the manor-house of Holcken- havn (Rte. 17) to Nyborg. On the return, the inland or W. (new) road leads through (7 m.) Or- bsek, close to which is the fine man¬ sion of Orbseklunde (1593). 6 m. fur¬ ther is *Glorup, the seat of Count Moltke-Glorup, with a beautiful gar¬ den covering 120 acres, fine hot¬ houses, and magnificent timber. This Park, the most important of all, may be visited in an easy day’s drive from Svendborg and back. The high road to (20 m.) Faciborg leads past (3 m.) Hvidkilde, and (16 m.) Holstenhus , with fine parks open to visitors. 14 m. S.W. of Svendborg lies the Island of iEro, with its two little ports of JErbskjobing ^2 and Marstal.Q JErbskjobing (1500) is situated on the N. coast, and a road runs thence S.E. to (8 m.) Marstal (3000), at the E. ex¬ tremity of the Island. The highest point is the Synneshoi (220 ft.), about 7 m. W. of Mroskyobing , reached by a road which runs S.W. to avoid the bay, and then turns N.W. The same road, continuing S.W., leads to the low cliffs of the (4 m.) Voderup Klint, which stretch for about 2 m. along the S.W. coast of iEro. A Steamer crosses the Sound S.E. from Svendborg to (8 m.) Rudkjo- bing (3500),the market town of the Island of Lang eland, which has a length from N. to S. of 32 m., and a breadth varying from 2 m. to 5 m. Steamer S.W. to Marstal, N.W. to the little landing-place of Lohals Have, about half-way to Korsor. 8 m. N.W. of Rudkjobing is the interesting and historical old Castle of Tranekjaer Slot,^2 a royal domain as far back as 1231. On the E. side of the Island, 6 m. from Rudkjobing, is Spodsbjaerg,^ whence a steamer plies daily in 1 § hr. to Nakskov in Lolland (Rte 29). ( 48 ) PART IY. ZEALAND AND MOEN. LIST OF ROUTES. ROUTE PAGE 20. Nyborg to Copenhagen, by Korsor, Slagelse, Sorb, Ring- sted, and Roskilde. Steam- ferry and Rail .... 48 21. Copenhagen to Klampenborg. Steam Tramway and Rail. The Dyrehave . . . .74 22. Copenhagen to Helsingor, by Hillerod (Frederiksborg). Rail.76 ROUTE PAGE 23. Copenhagen to Frederiktsund. Rail.82 1 24. Roskilde to Kallundborg. Rail.84 25. Roskilde to Vordingborg, by Kjoge and Nestyed. Rail.85 26. Kjoge to Stubberup. Rail . 87 : 27. Slagelse to Nestved. Rail . 88 ROUTES. ROUTE 20. NYBORG TO COPENHAGEN. Miles. Stations. Korsor Routes. 11 Slagelse . . 27 20 Sorb 29 Ringsted 38 Borup 49 Roskilde . 24,25 67 Frederiksborg 69 Copenhagen 21,22,23 For the through journey from Ham¬ burg to Copenhagen, see Rte. 17. On quitting" s the Stat. at Nyborg the train goes on to the Harbour, where passen¬ gers embark on a large Steamer, cross¬ ing the Great Belt in 1| hr. to Korsor , where the train is resumed. In the middle of the Belt the small island of Sprogo affords a very convenient stage for the ice-boats, by means of which the passage is effected in winter. There is rarely solid ice in the Belt affording a fair passage for sledges. The standing ice merely fringes the coasts, while that which lies further out shifts with every tide and current. The mails, and such passengers as are disposed to try it, are then brought over in large boats, which are drawn by men across the ice where it is strong enough, and rowed or paddled through the open parts. The whole distance being 17 m., a stage on the road is often very acceptable, and frequently passengers and crew are obliged to spend one or more days on the island. Sprogo is a mile in circumference, and contains only a lighthouse and a plainly furnished hostelry, which is never used except when there is ice in the Belt. Korsor (4700), forms the most important junction of the different lines of internal communication in Denmark, but has nothing to attract the attention of the traveller. The little bay, which is separated from the 49 Boute 20.— Slagelse — Soro . sea by a narrow peninsula on which the town is built, and which, on ac¬ count of the narrowness of the inlet, looks like a lake, has become known in the archscological world for so- called 1 coastfinds/ accumulations of rudely manufactured stone implements met with near the seashore, and no doubt traceable to the pre-historic in¬ habitants of the country. 2 m. E. lies the Korsor Shov.$£ Good view from the Bundehoi near the Restaurant. The train proceeds to 11 m. Slagelse (6800),^ one of the oldest towns in the country, its char¬ ter dating from 1280. It has, how¬ ever, been repeatedly devastated by fire. Here the Rly. for Nestved turns off to the rt. Our line soon enters one of the most attractive districts of Zea¬ land, rich in extensive forests and beautiful little lakes, one of which is seen to the 1. on the approach to Sord.2$ The large white building in the wood on the opposite bank is Soro Academy (see below). The town is 1\ m. distant and is not visible from the train. 20 m. SOHO (1900) is a compara¬ tively modern little place, owing its origin to a monastery of the Cister¬ cians, founded in 1161, but secularised at the time of the Reformation and transformed in 1586 by Frederik II. into a public school ( Academia So- rana). The great Danish writer Lud¬ vig Holberg, who died childless in 1754, left his large property to this in¬ stitution, which is one of the richest in Denmark, having an income of about 10,OOOZ. a year. The old buildings of the school were unfortunately de¬ stroyed by fire in 1813, whereby its exceeding valuable library was lost; but its Natural History collections are worth a visit. The *Church of the former monas¬ tery is 220 ft. long, 68 wide, and 52 high; the main arches and vaulting of the nave are pointed, but the ori¬ ginal round arches are preserved in the aisles and the chancel, which is square, with two lancet windows. Numerous celebrated persons have been buried here, amongst whom was Denmark. Bishop Absalon (1201). His grave was opened in 1827, when the skeleton was found with a crozier at the side, holding a silver chalice in the folded hands. It is covered by a slab on the pavement, immediately behind the altar. Further E. on a raised plat¬ form are the bronze effigies of King Christopher II. and his wife Euphemia (1333). At the opposite corner is the plain tomb of Valdemar III. (1375). The slab tombstone of Bishop Krak (1300) is in the S. transept. Holberg’s sarcophagus in marble, by Wiedewelt, stands in a Chapel opening out of the N. transept, below the window of which is a curious old wooden Crucifix. This beautiful Church, which con¬ sists of eight bays besides the W. gal¬ lery, is architecturally more interest¬ ing than Roskilde or Ringsted. The aisles have pointed arches and vault¬ ing, and there is some very effective brick ornamentation. The Church¬ yard is laid out as a garden. From Soro pretty drives may be made in every direction. 5 m. N.E. is Bjernede (carriage 6 kr.), with a most remarkable Ground Church, built by Ebbe Skjalmson, of an illustrious noble family (1150). The interior diameter is only 34 ft., and of this small space a considerable part is taken up by 4 columns with bases of granite of 12 ft. circumference each and 24 ft. high, supporting the roof. A porch and a chancel w r ere added afterwards, and the roof was probably originally conical; but enough re¬ mains of the old structure to render this one of the most interesting relics of ancient Christian architecture in Denmark. Besides this there are only two round churches in Denmark, though four others are found in the Island of Bornholm. There is an old font of granite, and a remarkable reliquary. 3 m. N. of Soro is the Church of Pedersborg , with a carved altar-piece (1500). The road to it passes the pretty Pedersborg So. 8 m. S.S.E. of Soro is Nxsbyholm, _ an old manor-house in a very fine situation surrounded by woods and lakes. 29 m. Ringsted (2000).s£ a dull E 50 Route 20 .— Ringsted — Roslcilde. town on rising ground, in a rather bare neighbourhood, was an important place in the Middle Ages. Its noble Ro¬ manesque *Church of St. Bendt has a nave with four round arches, but pointed vault, and no triforium. The aisles, transepts, clerestory, and apse are of the original date (1081). The Church has been fairly well restored since a fire in 1806, and is entirely whitewashed within. It was the burial-place of the Danish kings of the Valdemarian period, and their suc¬ cessors (1182-1375). The graves were opened in 1855 in the presence of Frederik VII., but most of them had been disturbed before. The monu¬ ments are likewise destroyed, except the very remarkable *Brass behind the high altar, covering the grave of Erik Menved (1319) and his queen Ingeborg. “ This is one of the most elaborate specimens of mediaeval en¬ graving extant. The figures are set under canopies of the richest taber¬ nacle work, w T hich finds no parallel in our English architecture of the same epoch. The abundance of small figures introduced, the exuberance of the ornament and diaper work, the fancy everywhere displayed, com¬ mands our admiration. The shafts of the canopies have their niches filled with small figures of Prophets and Apostles, ranged together, the former distinguished by their scrolls, the latter by their emblems. The upper part above the heads of the figures exemplifies the redemption of the soul, which is borne by angels in a winding-sheet to Paradise. The king is in a long tunic, richly emblazoned with three lions passant guardant in a field semee of hearts; and it is fastened on the breast by a small ring brooch, having amatory posies. The figure of the queen has also one, but of simpler outline. Both have the usual mantles of estate, and are crowned—the king holding in his right hand the drawn sword of Justice; in his left a sceptre. The queen holds a sceptre in her right hand and a book in her left. The faces of the figures are not in brass, but are insertions, that of the king being of marble, the queen of alabaster. These are also restorations, and do not too closely accord with the conventional style of the time. It must be also remarked that the date, 1319, is much too early for the character of the execution, which is fully thirty years later.”— The Builder , June 13th, 1885. Four plain slabs in front of the chancel steps, and five in front of the altar, mark the site of other royal tombs. The sacristan shows various relics of the kings which escaped the fire: clothes, ornaments, and a curious piece of cloth with gold letters. Over the plain stalls are Old Testament subjects carved in wood. (Sacristan, 1 kr.; apply at the hotel.) The three Stones at the corner of the street leading to the Church were used at the ancient councils of the kings. About a mile N.E. is an interesting group of buildings, formerly fortified, and inhabited by the descendants of their mediaeval owners. Attached to them is a Chapel of 1200, with a spring, erected on the spot where Knud Lavard, one of the early Danish kings, was murdered by his brother Harald in 1131. A mile further are two Lakes with excellent pike and salmon-trout fish¬ ing, much frequented by visitors from Copenhagen between June and Sep¬ tember. Boats may be had on the lake, and the landlord of the Hotel at Ringsted supplies the needful permis¬ sion. The Rly. now turns N.E. to 38 m. Borup, on the N. side of the little Borup So. Thence N.N.E. to 49 m. ROSKILDE (7000 ),& situated at the S. end of the Issefjord, in the 10th cent., the residence of King Ha¬ rald Blaatand, father of King Sven, and grandfather of Canute the Great, and one of the royal residences till the 15th cent. It was also one of the earliest episcopal sees, and—until Co¬ penhagen became the permanent resi¬ dence—the most important city in Denmark. But when it ceased to be a royal residence, and when the Re¬ formation had shorn the church of its splendour, Roskilde fell into decay. Route 20 .— Roskilde: Cathedral. 51 Of the 14 churches and 6 conventual institutions which once existed, only the Cathedral and Vor Frue Kirke are still in use. The name is popu¬ larly derived from a King Hroe, and supposed to mean “ Ilroe’s wellbut the king in question is a personage of doubtful historical authenticity. The locality, however, is exceedingly rich in springs, of which one, the Maglekilde, in an octagonal building at the base of the cathedral hill, yields 350 gallons per minute. The *CATHEDRAL is the finest and largest ecclesiastical building in Denmark, and the bishop of Zealand (who resides in Copenhagen) is the primate of the Danish Church. Ori¬ ginally the archbishop of Denmark resided at Lund in Skaane, which pro¬ vince, since 1658, belongs to Sweden, and Lund was till then the foremost in rank of the Danish sees. The Cathedral is shown by the sacristan (graver), who lives nearly opposite the W. door. 2 kr., one to three persons. Besides its architectural merits, the Church deserves a visit as the resting- place of most of the sovereigns of Denmark. The earliest church here was of wood, and built by Harald Blaatand in 975, but the present edifice of red brick was commenced after the mid¬ dle of the 12th cent., and was com¬ pleted towards the latter part of the 13th. It suffered much by fire, par¬ ticularly in 1283 and in 1443, and im¬ portant alterations were the conse¬ quence. It was after the first fire Plan of Church at Roskilde. (From Steen Friis.) Scale, 100 ft. to 1 in. that pointed arches were introduced instead of round ones, which, however, still remain in many places. The towers date also from that time; but the spires were set up by Christian IV., who also added the singularly inap¬ propriate Elizabethan W. door. The numerous chapels which from time to time have been erected round the church have also contributed to mar its original appearance. For years a thoroughly scientific and careful resto¬ ration has been going on, which is now tolerably well completed. The building is 276 ft. long and 87 ft. broad. The dimensions are not considerable, but the proportions are good. The church consists of a choir, nave, and aisles; these have a clerestory and are continued round the choir. The transepts do not project beyond the aisles. Being built on an eminence, the spires are seen far and wide, and altogether it is one of the finest buildings of its kind in the north. The W. door leads directly into the nave, which is 82 ft. high, and has 7 bays west of the transept. The width of the nave decreases slightly towards the choir, which has a very pleasing effect when seen from the door, or better from a wooden bridge over the door connect¬ ing the two side galleries. The stone pulpit dates from Christian IV.; the organ was built in 1555, and is of unusual size and excellency. Op¬ posite is a handsome royal pew, of gilded wood. There are many tomb¬ stones in the floor marking the graves of famous persons, though the oldest have almost all disappeared. The low brass railing enclosing the choir was a gift of Frederick IV. In the lcannikechoret, or canon’s choir, is £ 2 52 Route 20 .— Rosldlde: Cathedral. the altar which was bought by Fred- erik II. for the chapel at Frederiks- borg, but when this palace was taken down by Christian IY. in 1602, he gave this altar to the cathedral of Roskilde. The altar-piece is a *mag- nificent triptych in 21 compartments, representing scenes in our Saviour’s life. The work is of great artistic merit, and is supposed to belong to the beginning of the 16th cent., but the artist is unknown. The material is gilded wood. The stalls, 21 on either side, were placed there in 1420, and are of fine workmanship. The canopies are carved on the rt. with Old Testament subjects, on the left, New Testament. Behind the altar is the recumbent effigy, in white veined marble, of Queen Margaret, who united the three northern kingdoms. She died in 1412, and was first buried in Sord, but next year the Bishop of Roskilde took possession of the body by main force and carried it to the cathedral. The sarcophagus was placed here by her nephew and successor, Erik of Po- merauia in 1423, and was ornamented with small statues of alabaster in canopied niches, which are to be restored. E. of this tomb is that of her brother Christopher (1363). The second part of the choir is further raised, and contained for¬ merly the high altar and two others, which remained there with other an¬ cient church furniture till the close of the 17th cent., when this part of the cathedral was transformed into a royal burial-chapel. These relics were sold in 1806 as rubbish—a proceeding which caused just indignation amongst the educated public, and gave rise to special steps being taken by the government for the preservation of national antiquities. The cathedral had been deprived of its treasures before the Reformation, and very few objects connected with its earlier his¬ tory are now in existence. Several are preserved in the Museum of Northern Antiquities in Copenhagen, as, for instance, the oldest seal of the cathedral, and the skull of St. Lucius, its patron saint. The high choir contains the fine marble Renaissance sarcophagi of Frederik IV., Christian V., and their queens, and in the vaults underneath are the remains of several of the royal children. In 1420 the floor was raised in this part of the choir, and many old graves were thereby disturbed ; the bones of some of their occupants were, however, immured in the pillars. On the left are those of King Harald (a.d. 985), and Queen Margaret Fredkulla (a.d. 1130), on ihe rt. Svend Estridson (a.d. 1076) and Bishop Vilhelm (a.d. 1076). Above the lower row of arches is a modern fresco painting representing Christ and the Apostles, by Constantin Han¬ sen. In the aisle of the choir is a collection of portraits of famous men connected with the Church, and of all the bishops of Zealand since the Re¬ formation. On the left at the en¬ trance to the Sacristy is the carved Episcopal Seat. From the S. transept is entered the Chapter-house, founded by a certain Helgi (a.d. 1128) who is buried here, as indicated by a monumental stone with inscription. Proceeding W., down the S. aisle, is the sepulchral chapel of Frederik V. in Romanesque style with a cupola, handsome in itself, but utterly out of harmony with the Church. Here are the sarcophagi of Frederik V. and his queen, and all subsequent kings and queens of Denmark, including that of Frederik VII. in polished oak, with a wreath of oak-leaves in solid gold ; that of Frederik V. is in marble, by Wiedeivelt, and that of Queen Louise (1751) by Stanley, an Englishman. The 1st chapel on the rt., in the S. aisle, is that of the Three Holy Kings, with the monuments of Christian III. and Frederik II. The chapel itself is very fine, a central column of red granite supporting a noble vaulted ceiling, and the walls and vault being decorated with very interesting fresco- paintings contemporary with the first erection of the chapel, representing 53 Route 20 .— Copenhagen. Saints, and relieved with arabesques. On the column is indicated the height of several kings—Charles I. being assigned ft., and Peter the Great 7 The Monument of Christian III., by Corn. Floris of Antwerp, is of the highest artistic merit. In the crypt underneath lies Christian I., who built the chapel in 1459-1464 as a burial-chapel for his family, and richly endowed it. When his coffin was opened some time ago the body was measured, and it was found that although he had not been of the prodigious height ascribed to him, he still stood 6 Danish ft. in his shoes. Near the W. door are several minor chapels, and also along the western portion of the N. aisle, amongst which the chapels of St. Prigitta and St. Laurentius, to the left of the entrance door, contain old and interesting frescoes. Opening out of the left aisle is the largest of all the chapels, that of Christian IV. (1648), containing the sarcophagus of this king, covered with black velvet, and richly orna¬ mented with silver. His sword rests upon it. Around are placed some fine sarcophagi of chiselled copper, containing the remains of his queen, Anna Catarina, and of Crown Prince Christian (1647), Frederik III., and his queen, Sophia Amalia. The walls are decorated with frescoes by Mar strand (1866), and the lu¬ nettes above with allegories by Ed- delien. One of the frescoes repre¬ sents the king in the naval battle at Femern (1644) where he was wounded, and. another as a young man presiding as a judge in a cele¬ brated cause, where he discovered a fraud by examining the paper on which a certain document was written, and finding that the manufacturer’s mark indicated a later year than the pretended date of the document. Others are portraits of famous men of his time. The chapel is separated from the aisle by a magnificent screen of hammered iron, made by Caspar Fincke in 1690. In the N. aisle is also the tombstone of the great Danish chronicler Saxo Grammaticus (a.d. 1207), without an inscription. On the N. side of the chancel is the Porch of Oluf Mortensen , built in the 15th cent., with a very richly orna¬ mented front and the round portrait of Pope Lucius, patron saint of the church, painted on copper. In the south tower is the clock, with figures that strike the hours; and in the N. tower is the largest of the bells, which bears the date of 1511, and has a circumference of more than 18 ft. Vor Frue Kirke was formerly in the town, but stands now outside it, and the parish is a rural one ; several of the lanes near it have still the name of streets. The 12th cent. Church of St. lbs, now used as a warehouse, has very old and interesting frescoes. The tower of St. Laurentii Church forms now part of the Toivn-hall, and is a good specimen of red-brick Gothic. Close outside Roskilde on the N.W. is Bistrup, a very large lunatic asylum belonging to the city of Copenhagen and worthy of the attention of persons taking interest in such institutions. 3 m. from the city in the same direc¬ tion is the pretty little wood of Pose - rup (carriage 4 kr.), near which are the scanty ruins of Nebbe Castle, and a kitchen-midden. The last 20 m. of the Ply. journey are uninteresting. The country, though fertile, and upon the whole well cultivated, is very bare. When the train approaches Copenhagen, the castle and park of Frederihsberg appear to the rt., and the Ely. crosses the belt of lakes which surround the inner part of 69 m. COPENHAGEN.^ Page Academy of Arts. 57 Amager . Amagertorv. Amalieborg. 72 Anthropological Museum. 77 Antiquities, Collection of.^ 2 Arsenal. 59 54 Route 20 .— Copenhagen: History. Page Blind Asylum.72 Botanic Garden ........ 70 Cemeteries.72 Charlottenborg.55 Christiansborg.58 Christianshavn.55 Citadel. ..54 Coins, Collection of ....... 65 Court Chapel.59 Custom House.72 Deaf and Dumb Asylum.72 English Church.72 Engravings, Collection of.65 Ethnographic Museum.61 Exchange.59 Folke Museum.71 Fortifications.54 Frederiksberg.72 Friheds Stotten.55 Gammeltorv ..55 Glyptothek ... . 72 Harbour . ..55 Hospitals.71 Kongens Nytorv.55 Lange Linie.72 Library, Royal ..59 - University.66 Marble Church ........ 7l Meteorological Institute.72 Mineralogical Museum.66 Moltke’s Picture Gallery.71 Monument to Christian IV.59 -Christian V.55 ■ -——-Frederick V.72 -Frederick VI. . . . .72 -- Frederick Vil.59 -H. C. Andersen .... 72 ■ -Ewald.67 --Holberg.58 -Niels Juel.58 -Oehlenschlager . . . . 58 --Orsted.71 -Tycho Brahe.70 --Wessel.67 National Bank.. 57 -Museum.71 Ny Carlsberg.72 Nyhavn.. .... 57 Nytorv.66 Observatory.70 Orsted Park.71 Picture Gallery.57 Polytechnic School.70 Post Office.55 Prinsens Palais.61 Roman Catholic Church.71 Rosenborg.67 Round Tower.67 Royal Palace.58 Russian Church.71 Soudermarken.72 St. Annse Plads.55 Theatres.58 Thorvaldsen Museum.59 Tivoli.71 Triangel.74 University.66 Vor Frelsers Kirke.59 Vor Fruekirke.66 Zoological Gardens.72 Copenhagen (312,000 — includ¬ ing suburbs, 376,000) is rapidly in¬ creasing in size and population. Al¬ though dating from the 12th cent, it contains few old buildings and wears a modern aspect, owing to the exten¬ sive fires to which it has been sub¬ jected; in 1728 and 1795, 1640 and 950 houses were burned; and in 1807, 305 were destroyed by the bombard¬ ment of the English. It owes its first prosperity to the famous Bishop Ahsalon (13th cent.), and it became a royal residence in 1443. It has been a fortress, and towards the sea it is still defended by forts and a Citadel at the N.E. angle of the city ; but the forti¬ fications on the land side have been demolished, and the ground partly built on, partly converted into a promenade. Projects are on foot for defences more in accordance with modern science and artillery. The Forts Prdvesten, Middlefort, and Tre Kroner are armed with cast-steel Krupp guns of large calibre; and a gunboat constructed for harbour defences carries a 60-ton Krupp gun. Copenhagen has played a consider¬ able part in the history of Denmark, and has sustained several sieges, notably in 1658-59, when the King of Sweden, Carl Gustav, assaulted the town in vain, and in 1807 when the city was bombarded and captured by the English fleet (see Introd. § 8). Until lately it was not a very healthy place. The plague was a frequent guest, and on one occasion, in 1711, 22,500 died from a visitation of this scourge; in 1853 the cholera carried off about 4709. Since that time, how¬ ever, improved sanitary arrangements have been carried out. The water supply is excellent and abundant, being derived from large artesian wells at some distance; but the low level of the ground renders the drainage question a very difficult one to deal with satisfactorily. The city consists of two parts: Copenhagen proper, on the island of Zealand, and Christianshavn, on the small island of Amager, separated from the former island by a narrow arm of the sea forming the harbour, Boute 20.— Copenhagen; Kongens Nytorn. 55 which is generally entered from the north, the southern entrance being difficult of approach. The harbour is safe, deep, and capacious, and the traffic by sea considerable. A large new harbour ( Frihavn ) is in course of construction N. of the citadel. The town has a friendly, animated aspect, though not striking from archi¬ tectural beauty. Its four royal palaces give it an air of dignity, and it is rich in institutions connected with science and the learned pro¬ fessions, and in buildings devoted to charitable purposes. The principal objects of interest are Thorvaldsen's Museum, Frue Kirke, the Museum of Northern Antiquities, the Ethnographic Museum, the His¬ torical Collection at Rosenborg Castle , the Glyptothek , the view from the Round Tower, and an evening at the Tivoli. A convenient disposition of the day in Copenhagen is to visit the museums, &c., in the morning, to ride one of Mr. Lorup’s horses after luncheon, and to dine and spend the evening at Klampenborg, returning by the last train. Or, museums and ride in the morning; boat to Skods- borg or Rungsted (capital bathing) in the afternoon, and Tivoli in the evening. A drive from the Kongens Nytorv along the Lange Linie —a favourite promenade outside the citadel at the entrance to the harbour—through the grounds of the citadel, and down the Kjxrligliedssti lakes—encircling the inner city on the land side—and on to the shady park of Frederiksberg, would take about 2 hrs., and give the traveller a good general idea of the town. A card of admission to the Citadel is necessary, and may be obtained at the hotels. In the centre of the town is the Kongens Nytorv (King’s New Market) a large and handsome square (D. E. 6), in the middle of which is the eques¬ trian Statue of King Christian V (1699), with allegorical figures, a work of small artistic merit, but forming, with its enclosure of green and flowers, a good centre. On the S. side is the National Theatre , on the E. the Palace of Charlottenborg, enclosing the Academy of Arts. From this square issue several leading thorough¬ fares. Bredgade, the handsomest street in Copenhagen, leads in a straight line N.N.E. through the aristocratic quarter to the esplanade of the citadel, past St. Annas plads , the British Embassy, the Amalieborg, the Marble Church, Surgical Academy, the Roman Catholic Chapel, and the Fredrik’s Hospital; turning to the right at the end of Bredgade we reach Langelinie and the custom - house pier. Parallel with Bredgade is Store Kongensgade, which is continued bear¬ ing left in Osterbro and the Strandvei. Forming a corner with Store Kon¬ gensgade is Gothersgade, which leads N.W.W. past Rosenborg Garden (en¬ trance in Kronprindsessegade) and the Botanic Gardens and the Commune Hospital to the suburb of Norrebro. Ostergade, the narrow central street of Copenhagen, leads from Kongens Nytorv to the Hoibroplads, which is only separated by a canal from the open place in front of Christiansborg Palace, and from which Kjobmager- gade, which forms a corner with Ostergade, leads past the General Post-office to the Round Tower. The continuation of Ostergade beyond Hoibroplads is formed by Amagertorv and Vimmelskaftet, which leads to Gammeltorv (old market-place). From this latter Frue Kirke and the University are easily reached by turning to the right, whilst Frederiks- berggade continues W. to Tivoli and the Rly. Stat., past the so-called Friheds- stotte — an obelisk with allegorical figures of Faith, Bravery, Patriotism, and Industry erected in 1797 in me¬ mory of the abolition of villeinage under Cbristain VII. (1699)—and by way of Vesterbro and Frederiksberg Allee to the park of Frederiksberg. Finally a large thoroughfare opens due S. from Kongens Nytorv, near the Royal Theatre, and leads past the 56 Route 20 .— Copenhagen. co a o l/l & CD ft ft :o -4-3 o O ■g© £*■© o co ^_r CO o o ^ CO g -*H o 3 r*H '*“ 3 CO ft c3 s-J ri4 ci O . ^ ©<0 05 Ph ■*>? O -*= P. a> 03 >5 aj >- P. Cl. p P. a.a? a, • P2 >> 03 !d IH > ,2 oo o ^ ™ T3 fl s$ >» d ►■5 d o a <; 03 << £< go 3 o 2 o 3 S> >> jj b • b 3 3 0 0^0,5 w ^ OOSoSoQh o x d . o —< • a) h j CD ft D ft ® O o o © -4-3 fe 5 - ! ® -M 1^3 o o D H O O H Of^ ^ rH r—1 CD CO rH rH rH "H H H CO CO I t— I CM CD CO CO VO CO > rH rH tH CO (M CO CO CD CD C S f-c d 5 03 p 43 03 jf * 2 03 d o o> P4 P s CD d a d CD c3 M .2 cd bO a ^ 2 2 ft 5 *.-a p cj lS 0 d > 2 .^ a 'd M Jh r-H l i Pm O S a d CD CO d WH r-H c3 d o •H "e* &C1 >3 P 03 rH *3 O CD >-< d «*-© c ^ C- d ^ Mb a o o Ph bO d •3 c3 CD O c3 bO J-. *-< O g a is Ij OS 3 o ‘bb o Free. 57 Route 20.— Copenhagen: new building of the National Bank and Holmen’s Kirke to Christians- borg Palace and adjoining buildings; thence turning to the left past the Exchange, the bridge Knippelsbro leads to Christianshavn, with Vor Frelser’s Kirke, and to Amager. The Academy of Fine Arts (E. 6) is in the Palace of Charlottenborg on the E. side of Kongens Nytorv, a building erected in 1G72, with the materials of the Castle of Kalo, in Jutland, but deriving its name from the residence of Charlotte Amalie, wife of Christian V., and devoted to art purposes by Frederik Y. in 1754. The art schools established here have exercised a very considerable influ¬ ence on the productions of various trades in Denmark. Entrance from the Nyhavn. On the ground-floor is a very good Collection of Casts, and there is an annual exhibition of pic¬ tures, sculptures, &c., from March to June inclusive—during which four months the Picture Gallery itself cannot be seen. On the first floor is the Royal Picture Gallery. (Adm. see p. 56. Catalogue in Danish 25 o.) The gallery contains 395 paintings by old masters, 64 of uncertain attribution, and 374 by modern Danish artists. The col¬ lection is important as far as Dutch painters are concerned, but is compa¬ ratively poor in Italian works. In the 16th and 17th centuries there was a very close connection between Den¬ mark and Holland, and numerous Dutch painters found employment in Denmark; many of the best specimens of this school were bought in Fre¬ derik V.’s time at the sale of Cardinal Valenti’s collection. The following alphabetical list embraces the most noteworthy examples of the combined schools. Backhuysen: 10-16. Seven Marine pieces. Bloch: 495. Daughter of Jairus. 496, Christian II. in prison at Son- derburg. Bol: 47. *Women at the Sepulchre. Royal Picture Gallery. Both: 50,51. Italian Landscapes. Caravaggio: 59. *Soldiers playing Cards. Cranach: 69. Venus and Cupid. 70. Judgment of Paris. 74,75. Por¬ traits. 76. Virgin and Child. Dubbels: 90. *Dutch Men-of-war cruising. Everdingen: 96-100. Five Land¬ scapes and Water scenes. Exner: 545, 547. Two Scenes in Amager. 549. Convalescent Child. 550. Old Man sealing a letter. Filippino Lippi: 182. *Joachim and Anna at the Golden Gate. Gerard Don: 88. *The Quack Doctor. 89. Girl with a lighted Candle at a window. Gertner: 565. Portrait of his Mother. Hansen (Const.) : 576. Scene on the Molo at Naples. Hansen (Heinrich) : 583. Christian IV.’s Room at Rosenborg. 584. Salle des Francs, in the H. de Ville at Bruges. 585. Fish-market at Copenhagen. Heist (B. van der) : 131, 132. Half- length male Portraits. Huysum: 155. Flower-piece, in excellent preservation. Jens Juel: 605. The Artist and his Wife—and other portraits. Luini: 187. St. Catharine. Kalf: 165. Lemon, porcelain, and glass. Keyser (Thomas de) : 167. ^Portrait of a Burgomaster and his wife. Mantegna: 201. *Christ supported by two Angels. Marstrand: 657. Erasmus Mon- tanus, as a learned Bachelor of Arts, disputing with the clerk of his native village; a scene from a play by Hol- berg. 658. The Lying - in Room— from a scene in a play by Holberg. Melby: 667. Eddystone Lighthouse. Meyer : 672. Roman boy brought by his parents to a Convent. Mierevelt: 211. Portrait of a lively old Man. Mieris (Fr.): 213-217. Boy sent to fetch beer, and four Portraits. 58 Route 20 .—Copenhagen Mytens: Charles I. in the robes of the Order of the Garter, with a view of old Whitehall before the Fire. Parmigianino: 206. Portrait of Lorenzo Cibo. Petrus Christus or Stuerbout: 92. St. Anthony and a kneeling donor— the rest of the picture (Holy Family) is by an imitator of Vandyck. Bembrandt: 272. *Christ at Em- maus. 273, 274. Portrait of a Young Man and a Young Lady, richly attired. Rubens: 288. Judgment of Solomon. 289. Portrait of Abbot Matthew Irselius. 290, 291. Francis I. of Tus¬ cany and his Wife. Rump: 708-714. Landscapes, chiefly in the neighbourhood of Frederiks- borg. Ruysdael (Jacob): 298. *Wooded Landscape. Ruysdael (Solomon): 292. *Land- scape and river in Holland. Salvator Rosa: 284. Jonah preach¬ ing to the Ninevites. Shovgaard: 725. Sunshine in Sum¬ mer at the Dyrehaven. Slingelandt: 321. Interior. Somer (P. van): 326. Charles I. as Prince of Wales. Sonne : 739. Battle of the 5th June 1848, on the heights of Dyppel. 741. Battle of Idsted, between the Danes and the Holstein Insurgents, 25th July, 1850. Sorensen: 747. Entrance into the Sound at Helsingor. Sorgh: 329. Adoration of the Shep¬ herds. Steen : 331. The Miser and Death. Terburg: 344. Old Lady in black. Vermeliren: 758. Domestic Scene. Victors: 366. Portrait of a Lady. 367. David and Solomon. Weenix: 378. Partridges, Phea¬ sants, and other Game, with a Dog. At the S.E. corner of the Kongens Nytorv stands the National Theatre, a handsome Renaissance structure, erected in 1874. It enjoys a consider¬ able state subvention, and has exercised a very great influence on the intellec¬ tual culture of the Danish nation. It is noted for the elegant and graceful way in which the ballet is performed. : Chnstiansborg Palace. The best places cost at the door 3J kr. Rt. and 1. of the entrance are bronze sitting Statues of the Danish poets Ludvig Holberg (1684-1754) and Adam Oehlenschlager (1779-1850). The former wrote principally comedies, the latter dramatic pieces. A tramway leads S. past the Theatre, turning to the rt. at a colossal standing Statue of Niels Juel (1697), one of the first of Denmark’s naval heroes. His tomb, as well as that of Peter Tordenskjold (1720), is in the Hol- menskirke, which the tramway soon passes on the left, just before crossing the bridge. On the opposite side of the canal rises the Christiansborg Pa¬ lace (E. 5, 6), a conspicuous object from the sea and from every eminence in the neighbourhood. It is situated on an island bounded by the harbour and by canals, across which several bridges give approach to it. The earliest castle was built in 1168, but this was several times destroyed and rebuilt. When Copenhagen became a Royal residence the castle was much improved, and Christian I. and his son, King Hans, built a magnificent banqueting-hall, at the entrance of which were two reliefs of the latter and his queen. These are now placed in the entrance-hall of the Royal Li¬ brary, and are all that remains of that structure. A new and more exten¬ sive edifice was erected in 1725-27, but demolished in order to make room for a splendid palace, one of the hand¬ somest in Europe (1733-70). This was destroyed by fire in 1794, and it was only in 1828 that the present building, inferior to its predecessor, was completed. It has never been permanently occupied, but reserved for state festivities, and was burnt down in Oct. 1884. Within the gar- den railings are four colossal bronze statues executed from designs of Thor¬ valdsen —Hercules, by the great sculptor himself—Minerva, Nemesis, and iEs- cualpius by Bissen. The figures were intended to typify Strength, Wisdom, Justice, and Truth ; but when Thor¬ valdsen, who was in Italy, received the letter containing the order, he read by mistake “ Sundhed” (Health) in- 59 Boute 20 .—Copenhagen stead of “ Sandhed ” (Truth), and thus JEsculapius came to figure here. In the tympanum of the portico is a group, likewise from a design of Thorvaldsen, representing Jupiter, surrounded by other deities. In front of the Palace is a bronze equestrian Statue of Fredekik YII. (1808-63), by Bissen, erected in 1873. Pacing the Palace to the right, in immediate connection with it, is the Slotshirhe or Chapel Royal, built in the same style, and tastefully arranged in the interior, but without any special attractions. The huge square tower rising N.E. on the opposite side of the Canal is that of St. Nicolai — all that remains of a large church, the first in which the Reformation was preached in Copenhagen. The Palace contains a fine Biding School, the entrance to which is by a door on the left, a short distance beyond the entrance to the Thor¬ valdsen Museum. This enclosure may be used by those who procure horses from Mr. Lorup (13, Toihus- gade), one of the King’s riding-mas¬ ters, and in wet weather will be found very useful. Close to Christiansborg Palace, on the same island, is the Arsenal (E. 6) (open free , Wed. 1 to 3 p.m.), possessing a large Collection of Arms of every de¬ scription, amongst which are some of the oldest known specimens of fire¬ arms. Here are cannons 23J feet long, dating from 1559, and two 11-in. mor¬ tars, from 1692. Adjoining the Arsenal is the Royal Library (E. 6), founded by Frederik III. in 1665, containing about 550,000 vo¬ lumes and 25,000 manuscripts. (Adm., see p. 56.) The hall of the library, 250 feet long, with a gallery, supported by 66 columns decorated in white and gold, is very fine. In course of time 8 other large halls have been appro¬ priated to the use of the library. The collection of early printed books and block books is very important; the old Scandinavian and the Oriental MSS. are specially valuable, and there are many volumes which have belonged .* Thorvaldsen Museum. to historic personages. In the en¬ trance-hall are two large figures sculp¬ tured in stone, executed in 1503, re¬ presenting King Hans of Denmark, Norway, and Sweden, and his Queen Christina, which formerly stood at one of the entrances of the palace. On the Canal, close to the Palace, stands the Exchange (E. 6), a red¬ brick building in Dutch renaissance, with casements and sculptured orna¬ ments of grey sandstone, and a curious spire in the shape of four dragons, whose tapering bodies are twisted to¬ gether, whilst the heads, forming the base of the spire, turn to the corners of the compass. The interior is modern¬ ised, and the large hall decorated with historical cartoons by Frohlich. At the end is a bronze statue of Chris¬ tian IV., by Thorvaldsen. The ex¬ terior is unchanged. It was built in 1619-1640 by Christian IV., restored in 1858, and is one of the best speci¬ mens of this style of architecture, which is akin to the Elizabethan in England, and in Denmark generally is described as the style of Christian IV. (Adm. 2 to 3, 25 6.) From this point the traveller may walk E. down the Canal, and cross a bridge to *Vor Frelsers Kirke (Our Saviour’s Church) in Christianshavn, commenced in 1682 (E. 7). It has a beautiful font with sculptures in alabaster, and a very peculiar spire, completed in 1752, with an external staircase ter¬ minating under a ball, which accom¬ modates a dozen persons. From the top (288 ft.) there is an extensive view of the town and the neighbourhood, (Fee 2 kr. for a party not exceeding 12 ; verger, 19, St. Annsegade.) On the other side of the Palace stands the ^Thorvaldsen Museum (E.5), erected by the city of Copenhagen (1839-1848), to contain a collection of his works, the pictures, books, cameos, &c., w'hich he had bequeathed to the city, and finally to receive the mortal remains of the great sculptor himself. This last circumstance, that the build- 60 Route 20 .—Copenhagen ing is not only a museum but a mauso¬ leum, is to be borne in mind in judging of the style and decoration of the building, for which the motives were borrowed from Etruscan and classical sepulchral architecture. The frescoes outside represent the triumphant re¬ ception of Thorvaldsen on his return to his native country, Sept. 17, 1838, and the removal of the sculptures to this place, but they have suffered much from the climate. The build¬ ing forms a quadrangle, and has two ' 1—21 Ground Floor, xxii—xlii—First Floor. stories. The lower contains only sculptures, the upper story pictures and other collections, as well as some sculptures not elsewhere accommo¬ dated. In each story there is a cor¬ ridor looking into the courtyard, and a series of small rooms, lit by high windows from the outside. On the ground-floor each of these chambers contains generally one principal figure with a number of reliefs and surface ornaments. (English catalogue, 45 6.) Bertel Thorvaldsen was born on : Thorvaldsen Museum. Nov. 19th, 1770. His father was ot Icelandic descent, and was a ship’s carpenter and carver of figure-heads. Bertel entered the Academy of Arts in 1791 at the age of eleven, and two years later carried off the principal prize. In 1797 he went to Rome. His first great work was the Jason (Room 5, No. 51), which in 1803 at¬ tracted the attention of Thomas Hope, an English banker, who ordered its reproduction in marble. At this time Thorvaldsen’s means were nearly ex¬ hausted, and he was on the point of returning to Copenhagen, when the order was given, and he was thus en¬ abled to remain in Rome. The Jason was the first of his works which ex¬ cited general attention, and his suc¬ cess dates from 1803. When Thor¬ valdsen returned to Copenhagen, six¬ teen years later, he was the most famous sculptor in Europe. Bacchus (Upper Corridor, No. 2) and Gany¬ mede (Room 1, No. 40) appeared in 1805; Hebe (Room 6, No. 38) and Psyche (Room 2, No. 27) in 1806 ; Adonis (Room 17, No. 53) ; Mercury, as the slayer of Argus (Room 10, No. 4), a superlative work in 1818; and the Graces (Room 3, No. 29) in 1819. The Entry of Alexander into Babijlon, in the upper Corridor, was executed in 1811 by order of Napoleon I., for the decoration of the Quirinal. In 1820 Thorvaldsen returned to Rome, and remained there till 1839, when he revisited Copenhagen, where he died in March 1844. He is said to have produced nearly 500 works. On entering the Corridor on the ground-floor we observe to the left the model of the well-known Lion of Lucerne. Turning to the left, we enter the Great Hall, or Vestibule, where several colossal monuments have found place, particularly those of 123, Poniatowshi; 135, Schiller; 142, Pius VII. in St. Peter’s, Rome; 113, Copernicus ; 114, Gutenberg. Re¬ turning to the corridor we observe, to the rt., the group of St. John preach¬ ing in the wilderness (59-70), which can here be studied far better than in the tympanum of the Frue Kirke. The cabinets behind this corridor, 1 to 11, 61 Route 20.— Copenhagen contain Ganymede (1); Cupid and Psyche (2); the Graces (3); Venus (4); Jason (5); Hebe (6); Mars and Cupid (7); Hope , and the relief in marble, Night and Day (8); Vulcan (9); Mercury (10). Crossing the Christus Hall (see below) we come to Room 21, which contains the statue of Christian IV. in the Rosenborg Palace. We have now completed the circuit of the ground-floor, and are near the entrance. At the opposite end of the quad¬ rangle from that which contains the colossal monuments is the Hall of Christ, in which the figures of our Lord and the Twelve Apostles, exe¬ cuted for Our Lady’s Church in Co¬ penhagen, are placed together, produc¬ ing a wonderful effect, by the solemn beauty and deep expression of the in¬ dividual statues. On the staircase stands the model for Hercules in front of Christiansborg Palace. In the upper story are a number of indifferent pictures. Among the best are Roman children, by Williams, and a landscape in Norway, by Dahl; two pictures from Roman life, by Meyer; a Waterfall, by Dahl (183) ; a picture by Blunch, representing Thor¬ valdsen, and other artists, in a Roman Osteria; landscape, by the Danish painter Kierschou. Thorvaldsen, by Horace Vernet; fruits and flowers, by Jensen ; Danish landscape by Buntzen ; sea-piece by Melleye . Flowers, by Jensen ; Italian scenes, by Dahl. The Improvisatore, a good picture by Fio- roni. Here also are some sketches for Statues and Monuments; Egyptian Antiquities; Greek, Etruscan, and Roman Antiquities; Antique gems and pastes ; Coins ; Antique Sculptures; Antique terra-cotta vases ; Thorvald¬ sen’s books; plaster casts of antique busts; portrait of Thorvaldsen, by Magnus; his furniture, some pictures he used to have in his own room, and two works which occupied him on the last days of his life, viz. a bust of Lu¬ ther, and a sketch for a basso-relievo ; Thorvaldsen’s bust, by V. Bissen. In the middle of the courtyard, decorated in Pompeian style, the artist lies buried under a bed of ivy. The ; Ethnographic Museum. granite frame bears the inscription; Bertel Thorvaldsen, born 19th Nov., 1770: died 24th March, 1844. The cellar contains Thorvaldsen’s earliest works, a collection of casts, &c., open on Wed. from 11 to 3. Thorvaldsen’s Museum is the most popular public collection in Copenhagen, and it has done far more for the education of the people than any other. On the exterior a fine group, Victory in a Quadriga, executed in bronze, after a sketch by Thorvaldsen (three of the horses by Bissen ) surmounts the facade. A short distance across the bridge to the left is the PRINDSENS PALAIS (E. 5), formerly inhabited by members of the Royal Family, but now devoted to the Ethnographic Museum, the Mu¬ seum of Northern Antiquities, the col¬ lection of Classic Antiquities, the Royal collection of Engravings, and the Royal Society of Science. The Ethnographic Museum (adm. see p. 56; catalogue in Danish, 50 o.) is one of the largest and best arranged of its kind. Its object is to illustrate the civilization of the various nations outside Scandinavia anterior to the classic period, and the development founded on this, by comparison with savage tribes still existing, whose mode of life has not yet assumed the charac¬ teristics of modern European culture. The collection has been re-arranged by Mr. Worsaae, and occupies three stories. On the ground-floor the first five rooms contain Prehistoric Antiquities, representing the stone, bronze, and early iron ages in every part of the world. Room 1, Europe; Room 2, Asia, Africa, South America ; Room 3, Central America, Caraibyan Islands, and Mexico ; Room 4, North America; Room 5, Greenland. The remainder of the collection illustrates the civi¬ lization of modern extra-European nations in the following consecutive order :—Esquimaux of Greenland in costume ; their dresses, seal-skins, and utensils ; Esquimaux of North Ame¬ rica ; Esquimaux of Northern Asia, 62 Route 20.— Copenhagen: Museum of Northern Antiquities. and.North American Indians ; Indians of Central and Southern America, in¬ cluding an Indian chief on horseback. On the staircase are objects referring to the last-named tribes and to the negroes in South America. On the first floor native African negroes, with a large boat; natives of Malay and Sumatra; natives of Java, with a country cart, a ship, and weapons; Hottentots, Bushmen, and Kaffirs; Malays and other natives of the Indian Archipelagoes; Papuans, and other natives of the Australian Archipelago, and those of Siberia. In the last room and on the staircase, Japanese. The second floor is devoted to the Chinese, the natives of East India, Persia, Arabia, and the Turks. Among the most interesting objects are the Esqui¬ maux dresses, sledges, canoes, and tents ; the North Amei'ican collections ; the splendid specimens from Guinea, Papua, and the Solomon Islands; and the collections to illustrate China. The Museum of ^Northern Anti¬ quities was founded in 1807, at the suggestion of Prof. R. Nyerup, but brought to its present perfection mainly by its late director Mr. C. Thomsen, who occupied this post for 50 years. This collection was the first in the ar¬ rangement of which his celebrated theory of the succession of three stages of civilization, characterised by the use respectively of Stone, Bronze, and Iron, was carried out; and the fact that so large a collection could be ar¬ ranged satisfactorily in conformity with that view, has had a very large share in its early triumph amongst scientific archaeologists. Between 1866-85, the Museum was re-organised by the late distinguished scholar, Mr. Worsaae. Thanks to the great interest awakened in the Danish nation at large for the antiquities of the country—an interest which the exist¬ ence of the Museum itself greatly con¬ tributes to increase; and thanks, also, to the liberality of the Danish Govern¬ ment, which allows the finder of any antiquarian objects of precious metals the full value if they are offered to the Museum ; this is constantly increased, and is by far the largest and most complete in Europe. It is unrivalled in its gold ornaments. The entrance is across the court¬ yard of the Prindsens Palais. (Adm, see p. 56. Catalogue in Danish 50 6.) The entrance-hall contains a bust of the late Mr. C. Thomsen, and a number of memorial stones with Runic inscriptions in the oldest Danish dia¬ lect, closely resembling the modern Icelandic. The ground-floor contains objects illustrating the period of Pa¬ ganism in Denmark. First Room.—Age of Rough Stone. In this room are sections and iso¬ lated objects from the celebrated kit¬ chen middens ( Kjohhenmoddinger ) or dust-heaps, which consist of oyster- shells and other refuse from the meals of the ancient inhabitants of the coun¬ try, who were in the habit of repairing to the coasts, at certain times of the year, for the purpose of fishing, and whose rude pottery and implements of stone and bone abound in the heaps. Oysters seem to have been very abun¬ dant in those days, when the Danish islands were still more numerous than now, many smaller ones having since coalesced with others, and the neigh¬ bourhood of the oyster-banks was evi¬ dently the favourite place of resort in the season. In more than 50 places on the coast such accumulations have been discovered in Denmark, where their true nature was also first recog¬ nised. They have now been found in other countries as well. The first room also contains specimens from the so-called coast-finds, vast accumula¬ tions of such rude stone implements as were used by the earliest savage tribes, and spread along the shores of the sea, of inland lakes, and of rivers. Second Room.—Age of Rough and Polished Stone. Transition. Here are specimens from the several manufactories, of stone implements which have been discovered, showing the mode of manufacture—grindstones for finishing the beautiful ground im- Route 20.— Copenhagen: Museum of Northern Antiquities. 63 plements characteristic of the later division of the stone-age, and many beautiful examples of the period. Third Room.—Age of Polished Stone. Suites of beautifully-worked tools, and weapons, from the highest deve¬ lopment of the stone-age, as well as entire collections of objects found together in dolmens and other burial- places of that time; and a great quantity of amber ornaments. In a peat-bog at Agger in Jutland, more than 1800 pieces of amber were found in a clay vase. Fourth and Fifth Rooms.—Age of Bronze to a.d. 250. The metal consists of 90 per cent, of copper, alloyed with 10 per cent, of tin. Solder was not known. Gold was abundantly employed for various purposes, but neither iron nor silver were known. There are consider¬ able suites of different classes of tools and arms, and in one case a number of “ lure,” or war trumpets ; on the floor, in the middle of the fourth room, stand several large oak coffins (51, 52, and 54) made of whole trunks hollowed and cut so as to form a sort of trough with lid, in which the bodies, in some instances, were laid with all their garments on, though generally they were burned, and the ashes placed in urns. In these coffins the garments—the oldest known—were in some few cases pre¬ served. Note particularly some of the bronze knives, and poignards in the middle window, remarkable for their beautiful workmanship. Nu¬ merous objects of gold from this period are exhibited in the fifth room, and together with some vessels, which were found in a clay urn, buried in a peat-bog, where the finder, a poor cottager, had got permission from a richer neighbour and owner of the moor to cut a ltttle peat for fuel. Here also are bronze objects of native manufacture, including moulds, in¬ gots, bars, and lumps of raw metal. Sixth and Seventh Rooms.—Early Iron-Age. This age (a.d. 250-450) was characterised by a strong Roman influence. Silver and glass were for the first time known in this age ; woollen fabrics were admirably made ; ornamentation of every kind became more complex; boats were con¬ structed, and traces of alphabetical signs have been found. History does not inform us of any advances by the Romans so far north as Denmark; but numerous Roman antiquities, and coins from the first two centuries found in that country scattered in various places, deposited with the remains of the dead, or immersed in sacred waters, together with ob¬ jects of unmistakably native ma¬ nufacture, prove that the inhabi¬ tants, at any rate through others, had intercourse with Rome. Two of these ancient sacred lakes were discovered in Schleswig — Nyclam, which was an inlet from the sea, and Thorsbjerg near the Slie; and the treasures after being excavated be¬ tween 1858-63, by Professor Engel- hardt, at the expense of the Danish Government, were formed into a separate collection at Flensburg, ex¬ cepting the objects shown here in cases, which formed part of the col¬ lection of King Frederik VII., now united with the Copenhagen Museum. The collection at Flensburg (now removed to Kiel) was given up to the Germans by a special clause in the treaty of peace of Vienna, which terminated the war of 1864. Fac¬ similes of some of the most remark¬ able ornaments of this collection are seen in the cases here. Among them are two remarkable golden horns in the 8th room, found'—one in 1639 and the other in 1734 — near Gallehus in Schleswig, but stolen at the begin¬ ning of this century from a public col¬ lection and melted down before they were missed. Fortunately they had occupied the attention of the learned to such an extent that numerous draw¬ ings and descriptions somewhat com- J pensate for the loss of the originals. 64 Route 20 .— Copenhagen: Museum of Northern Antiquities . Other cases contain specimens of this period (3rd cent.), discovered in a peat-bog, formerly a sacred lake called Vimose, near Odense. Amongst the objects may be mentioned a beau¬ tiful head of a griffin in bronze, of Roman workmanship ; a great quan¬ tity of tools, amongst them a plane, with Runic inscription in 70 charac¬ ters ; draught-board and men, ba¬ lances, &c. The objects found at Krageliul, in Fyen, another antiquarian peat-bog, belong to a somewhat later date than Vimose, and many of them exhibit a very remarkable kind of ornamentation representing serpents twisted together. Eighth Room.—Later Iron-Ages. Here are examples of the second iron-period, Barbaro-Byzantine, be¬ tween the 5th and 8 th cent. The de¬ posits (sepulchral and others) of this age are characterised by a peculiar grotesque style of orna¬ mentation, and the coins found in them are mostly of Byzantine origin, 425-525 a.c. To this age belong, also, the so-called brcicteates, By¬ zantine gold discs, with Runic in¬ scriptions, adapted so as to be worn suspended as ornaments by means of small loops or holes. The figures represented on the bracteates of native make are very irregularly drawn, and on account of their dis¬ torted outlines often difficult to in¬ terpret. Mr. Worsaae supposed that some refer to the heroes of the ancient sagas. The late iron-age was doubtless characterised by great splendour. It was the time of the Vikings, and ex¬ tended between the 8th cent, and 1030. Everywhere are large and handsome heavy swords and battle-axes, often ornamented with inlaid silver ; large silver buckles of peculiar form and perforated work; splendid horse- trappings. Two cases contain each the entire contents of a large barrow ; in one of them the body was deposited in an oak coffin enveloped in splendid embroidered garments of wool and silk with gold threads. Another case contains the objects found in the sepulchres of King Gorm and his Queen Thyra, the first constructor of the Danevirke, who were buried at Jellinge in Jutland (Rte. 8), not far from Veile, where two enormous barrows, almost overtopping the little village church, and two Runic stones were erected in their memory. The sepulchre had been opened by robbers before the excavation in 1861, when only the objects here shown were to be found. Near the door are spades, a wheel, and other objects, which have been found in the ancient ram¬ part of the Danevirke. It is to this period that the Runic stones belong, which are placed in the ante-room. Ninth Room . —Runic stones, 9 th and 10th cent. Tenth Room.—Early Middle Ages. On the staircase leading to the first floor are several large articles belonging to this period, particularly stone monuments from the early times of Christianity in Denmark, partly with Runic inscriptions ; also a wood carving from Iceland; the door of a church with a ring handle of iron inlaid with silver of the 12th cent. Eleventh Room, First Epoch, 11th to 13th cent., that is, the period characterised in architecture by the use of l-ound arches. Most of the objects are for religious use. Several are connected with celebrated men of the period, and include the armour of warriors, and vestments of priests. Among them is a reliquary in the shape of an arm below the elbow, which be¬ longed to St. Olaf of Norway, who es¬ tablished Christianity there, and fell in 1030 at the battle of Stiklestad, and w T ho is represented in painting on the antemensal, from the Cathedral of Trondhjem of the 13th cent. The reliquary was made, according to the inscription, for Princess Helen of Denmark, grand-niece of Knud the Route 20.— Copenhagen: Museum of Nor them Antiquities. 05 Great. In the same room is a mag¬ nificent *altar-frontal of gilt copper, from a Church in Tvenstrup, covered with Scripture subjects. Ornaments of a similar kind from the Church of Lisbjerg near Aarhus. Besides these, seven such altars are known to exist in the old Danish provinces. Coats of mail, bronze lamps, bronze dragons, chasubles and ivory staff. Belies of the patron Saint of Denmark, St. Canute, which were found in a reliquary im¬ mured in his Church at Odense (Rte. 17). The cross A in case 202 at the window of the 1st Boom is the famous *Dcigmar Cross, that belonged to the popular queen (d. 1212) of King Val- demar I., and was discovered in her sepulchre in the Church at Bingsted. It is of Cloisonne enamel, and of By¬ zantine workmanship. An exact copy of it, with small particles of the relics contained in the original, was amongst the presents given to the Princess of Wales on her marriage by King Frederik VII. Close to it is another very beautiful Maltese cross of gold, with a chain. Booms 12 to 15 inclusive, illustrate the latter part of the Middle Ages, when the pointed arch predominated. 12th Boom: iron-bound chest; carved wooden triptych with many figures ; very curious Crucifix carved in wood. 13th Boom (hung up at the window), one of the earliest specimens of print¬ ing — Letter of Indulgence (1454); splendidly carved ivory book covers and triptychs ; large sculptured group from Ribe in Jutland, representing St. George and the Dragon (1510). 14th Boom : several monstrances, with other church plate; carved stalls. 15th Boom: ancient sticks and rings, with Runic and other characters, serving the purpose of calendars ; drinking horn; loom-stocks; suits of chain armour with gold ornaments ; curious old breech-loading cannon fixed to a piece of oak timber. It was found in the w r reck of a man-of-war, near the island of Anholt (16th cent.). Close by is another cannon in wrouglit-iron, long and narrow. Booms 16 to 20 inclusive illustrate the Period of the Rennaisance (1536- Denmarlc. 1660) to the time of the establishment of the absolute monarchy in Denmark. Beautifully chased ebony cabinet; shield, inlaid with gold; curious cross¬ bows, inlaid with ivory and mother- of-pearl ; portrait reliefs in coloured wood of Erasmus and Luther; mounted knight in armour; two beautiful silver altars of 1620 and 1580, made in Augs¬ burg for the oratories in the Royal castles of Husum and Frederiksborg; in the window a fine ivory carving by Georg Bethel, a German artist (1643), representing the Descent from the Cross; tapestry from the Kron- borg, manufactured between 1581 and 1596 at Helsingor and Slangerup in Zealand ; the watch of the great astronomer Tycho Brahe (18th Boom), dated 1597 ; silver spoons and goblets ; jewelled caskets ; lace and embroidery; packs of cards; furniture. The staircase, where architectural fragments of different kinds are exhibited, leads to the Library and archives of the Museum, open to students on Tues., Thurs., and Sat. from 12 to 2. A room at the top of the stairs contains interesting speci¬ mens of tiles and brickwork, and some models of local Churches and Palaces. The same building contains the collection of Classic and Oriental Antiquities, which however does not offer much of special interest, beyond two original heads from the Parthe¬ non, three large reliefs from Nineveh, and a small painting from Pompeii (Adm., see p. 56). On the first floor is the Royal Col¬ lection of Engravings and Original Drawings (Adm., see p. 56). Amongst the principal treasures of this very large collection are a great number of engravings and woodcuts by Albrecht Diirer, a present from the artist to Christian II., as is shown by a note in his journal; also a splendid col¬ lection of the works of Marcantonio Raimondi, the friend of Raphael; and many thousands of drawings by Danish painters. The opposite door leads to the Royal Collection of Coins and Medals, lor- F 66 Bonte 20 .—Copenhagen : Vor Frue Kirke . merly at the Castle of Rosenborg (Adm., see p. 56). It contains 125,000 specimens, and although less rich in rare and costly pieces than some other Museums of Europe, is superior to any in universality. Here is the oldest known mediaeval coin with the date of coinage, struck by Bishop Uffo in 1247. There are no less than 400 Danish gold medals. Issuing from the Prindsens Palais, and turning left, a street leads in a straight direction N.W. through the Nytorv (New Market), with the Town Hall on the left, to Vor Frue Kirke (E. 5), or Our Lady’s Church, a modern structure in the form of a Roman basilica, of very simple exterior, but pleasing propor¬ tions in the interior (Adm., see p. 56). It was built in 1829 by Hansen, who designed the present palace of Chris- tiansborg, and derives its principal interest from the colossal figures of Christ and the Apostles, executed for it by Thorvaldsen, who also modelled the kneeling angel serving as a font. In the tympanum of the Doric por¬ tico is the group of St. John 'preach¬ ing in the Wilderness; in the vesti bale, a frieze representing the Entry into Jerusalem , in the nave the Twelve Apostles, in the chancel the Baptismal Angel, and over the altar Our Lord. The frieze in the apse behind Our Lord’s figure represents the Proces¬ sion to Golgotha. Over the entrances to the confessionals are two reliefs re¬ presenting the Institution of the Sacra¬ ments, and over the poor-boxes two others representing Charity and the Guardian Angel. The bronze statue of David, outside the church, is by Jerichau and Moses by Bissen. This is the principal church of Copenhagen, and existed in the 12th cent., but the original building, which contained an immense number of relics and costly objects, and was connected with a great many important his¬ torical events, was destroyed in the great fire in 1728. A new church was built in its stead, of imposing dimensions and great splendour, but it was destroyed by the English bombs in 1807 with the whole neigh¬ bourhood. In the gallery surrounding the interior there are some interesting portraits and memorial tablets. In the square N. of the Church are six bronze busts of Danish worthies. The University (D. 5, 6), on the N. side of the square, opened in 1836, possesses a fine Staikcase and LIall for special solemnities. The oak panel¬ ling is good, and opposite the throne is a picture by Marstrand , represent¬ ing the granting of the charter to the University in Vor Frue Kirke, by Christian I. in 1478. The staircase is decorated with large frescoes by Constantin Hansen , representing my¬ thological subjects. On the side wall, to the 1., the Birth of Athena and Apollo and Pythia; on the wall opposite the entrance, the history of Prometheus in three pictures; on the side wall to the rt., Apollo and Marsyas , and Athena and Poseidon. Smaller paint¬ ings form a frieze around the walls, and fill the space above this. In the ceiling, Aurora. The marble statues of Atliena and Apollo are by Bissen (1843). There are about 70 professors, and nearly 1200 students. The University library, one of the finest modern buildings in Copen¬ hagen, entirely of stone and iron (1860), is well worth a visit on account of its tasteful and well-planned ar¬ rangements (Adm., see p. 56). It con¬ tains above 260,000 volumes, and is particularly rich in works on the ! mathematical and physical sciences, and amongst the 4000 MSS. are many rare Scandinavian specimens. The Zoological Museum is a plain but handsome red-brick building, erected in 1869 (Adm., see p. 56). Catalogue, 25 6. It contains a valu¬ able and extensive collection of speci¬ mens, and the central hall is fine. The Mineralogiccd Museum contains extensive collections of minerals from Greenland, Iceland, Faroes, and Norway. N.E. is the College of the Regents, i founded for 100 students by Christian 67 Route 20 .— Copenhagen: Rosenborg Castle. IV., and close to it the Church of the Trinity with the famous Bound Tower (D. 5) of 1642, origi¬ nally intended for an observatory, and employed for that purpose for about 200 years. The tower, 115 ft. high, 48 ft. in diameter, consists of two hollow cylinders, between which a spiral inclined plane winds to the top, with a sufficiently easy ascent to render it possible for a coach and four to drive up—a feat which was actually performed by the Empress Catharine of Russia when she visited Copenhagen in 1716 in the company of her husband Peter the Great, who on that occasion preceded the carriage on horseback. The inner cylinder served as a receptacle for the treasures of the University library during the English bombardment in 1807. From the platform there is a very fine panoramic view of the city. Not far from the top an entrance leads from the spiral-way of the tower to a large hall constructed over the roof of the church, where the library of the University was preserved from 1657 to 1861, when it was removed to the present building close to the Univer¬ sity itself. S.E. of the Church are monuments to the poets J. Eivald (1781) and J. H. Wessel (1785), con¬ sisting of busts in relief, with two angels in bronze. Following the tramway to the left from the little garden, and passing the tower, we soon reach the broad Norre- voldgade, which. leads rt. in a few minutes to the gateway of *R0SENB0RG CASTLE (D. 5), a Family Museum of the Oldenburg dynasty (1449-1863). Its architect was King Christian IV. himself, who built it (1606-20) as a Pa¬ vilion to his garden, in which he en¬ tertained foreign ambassadors and others. At the same time he used the house as a health resort, and died there in 1648. His son Frederik III. was the real founder of the Collection—a work which he undertook partly from a love of curiosities, and partly as an act of filial piety. The ground-floor remains nearly unaltered; the first floor was re¬ arranged in the middle of the present century. This remarkably picturesque building, partly surrounded by a public garden, is a very fine specimen of a style much resembling the Elizabethan. It stood originally outside the ramparts of the city, and had its own moats and fortification; but subsequently the fortifications of the city were extended so as to enclose it. The surrounding Kongens Have (King’s Garden), was also planned by Christain IV., and ornamented with fountains and sculptures. Two mag¬ nificent avenues of horse-chestnuts, a group in bronze representing a horse attacked by a lion, and a couple of lions standing near the bridge leading to the Castle from the E., are nearly all that remain of the old garden. Considerable portions also have been applied to other pur¬ poses. The hothouses are very ex¬ tensive, and a school of gardening is connected with them. The Castle has long ceased to be a royal residence, and is now entirely devoted to the very interesting * Chronological Collec¬ tion of the Danish Kings. Admission can be had at any time on application to the castellan, passing the gateway and turning to the rt. (office on the 1st floor). Fee, 6 kr. for a party of not more than 12 persons. An illus¬ trated guide in Danish or English (price 2 kr.) is sold at the entrance. It is always possible for a single traveller to purchase a ticket for 1 kr. from [the porter of any large hotel; but in this case he must visit the Castle at a given hour, and join any party which may chance to have been formed for the purpose of making the round at that particular time. The language in which the explanation is given by the gentleman who shows the party over will then depend en¬ tirely upon the nationality of the greater number. The Englishman may be compelled to satisfy himself with an explanation of the various curiosities in French, German, or Danish; and the entire Collection is of such great interest that he is F 2 68 Route 20.— Cojjenliag < strongly recommended to make up a small party of his own countrymen, who will pay the 6 kr. between them, and take their tickets at the office, in the regularly appointed way. The attendant who accompanies visitors is always a graduate of the University of Copenhagen. The collection, which bears some resemblance to that of the Green Vaults at Dresden,! or that of the Hotel Cluny at Paris, was founded after the death of Christian IV. in 1648, in a room at the castle, where its nucleus still is, and it has now grown by degrees to occupy the whole. Under the management of Mr. Worsaae since 1858, it has been very much augmented and entirely re-arranged. The Museum of North¬ ern Antiquities does not embrace objects of later date than 1660 ; and as the collection at Rosenborg commences with the reign of Christian IV. (1588- 1648), and is carried down to the present day, it supplements the former as an illustration of the art, customs, &c., of various times. The periods illustrated at Rosen¬ borg are:— 1. The time between Christian I. (all in one closet) and Christian IV., 1448 to 1588 (Renaissance). 2. From the introduction of ab¬ solutism under Frederik III. to the French Revolution, 1648 to 1808 (Baroque, Rococo, and Empire). 3. From the French Revolution to our own times, 1790 to 1863. From the corridor on the ground- floor, into which visitors are first admitted, and of which the ceiling dates from the time of Christian IV., while the walls are hung with por¬ traits from the first two centuries of the reign of the house of Oldenburg in Denmark, we turn to the right into the Audience Hall op Christian IV., which is still preserved in its original decoration, with richly carved and painted oak-panels. It contains a cabinet of 1580, a chest of 1599, and ! The Green Vault cost nine millions of marks; the real value (metal, stones, pearls, etc.) of the Rosenborg Collection was in 1859 taxed at twelve (58,823Z.). en: Rosenborg Castle. several swords. The collection at Rosenborg possesses a very rare, and perhaps unique, suite of royal cos¬ tumes, of which the oldest, worn by Christian IV., are preserved in this room. Close by, in the tower, is Christian IV.’s Bedroom, where he died in 1648. It is still preserved in its original state of very handsome decoration, and contains many objects used by that king. Among the most remarkable objects here preserved is the *Olderiborg horn (1460), which was made by German artists for Christian I. of Denmark in 1479, when he visited the city of Cologne for the sake of effecting a reconciliation between the Emperor Frederik III. and Duke Charles the Bold of Burgundy. King Christian intended to dedicate the horn to the Three Kings, and deposit it at their chapel at Cologne if his mission was successful, but as this was not the case, he retained it. For a couple of centuries it was preserved at the family castle of Oldenborg, but was subsequently brought to Copen¬ hagen. It is of silver, richly gilt and enamelled, and ornamented with nu¬ merous figures, coats of arms and devices indicating its destination. It is surmounted with a castellated lid. In the same room are also preserved the earliest specimens of the insignia of the Danish Order of the Elephant (1415)—which in dignity corresponds to the Garter—as well as the insignia of the last-named order, which have been conferred upon Danish kings. The Study of Christian IV. con¬ tains his writing-table and chair, be¬ sides a considerable number of ele¬ gant and costly objects which belonged to him or his Queen Anna Kathrine. Amongst these are a saddle and bridle literally sown over with pearls, dia¬ monds, and other jewels (1634); a drinking-horn of silver, representing Christian IV. at the carousal; a beau¬ tiful fountain for perfumed water in ebony and silver, 6 ft. high. A num¬ ber of these objects were made in Denmark itself, where the splen¬ dour of the court and the nobility 69 Route 20 .—Copenhagen : Rosenborg Castle. in those days afforded a consider¬ able incitement to certain branches of art. Then follow the small G-arden Cabinet and the Dark Chamber, which contain objects of the time of Christian IV.’s son Frederik III. (1648-1670), chiefly Rococo. A cup of rock-crystal with figures of cupids and reliefs about 10 in. high, of the greatest artistic merit: and a *jewel- box of silver, presented by Queen Anna of England to Queen Sophia Amelia of Denmark. Through large crystals in the lid and sides, light is thrown on the beautifully-chased bottom of the box, and the whole is covered with diamonds and other jewels. When the palace of Christiansborg was destroyed by fire in 1794, this box, which stood in the toilet-room of the queen, was carried away by a thief. He was, however, soon discovered by a citizen, who prevailed upon him to sell it him for a small sum of money, rearing lest he might throw it down and injure it if he were taxed with the theft. We next enter the Marble Hall, devoted to the splendid reign of Christian V. (1670-1699), the con¬ temporary and—as far as he could manage it—imitator of Louis XIY. This hall was used by Christian V., and richly decorated according to the then prevailing fashion. It contains several fine specimens of Florentine mosaic, and some beautifully carved works in ivory. The Council Cham¬ ber is full of curiosities and personal belongings of the same monarch. In the King’s Cabinet is the * Wismar Cup, of very peculiar and elegantly- worked crystal, one of the finest objects of this kind in Europe. Here is a Wine-cooler, like a small oval bath, in very beautiful Belgian lumachella (black with white snails). Ascending the winding staircase to the first floor, visitors first enter a room called The Rose, illustrating the time of Christian V. and Frederik IV. (1699-1730), more particularly the latter. It is hung with magnificent Italian tapestry, doubtless brought home by Frederik IV. from Italy in 1709 with innumerable other treasures. After having been hung at various royal residences, it remained at Rosen¬ borg castle for many years unheeded and uncared for, till Mr. Worsaae brought it out of its hiding-place. It is of the very best Florentine work¬ manship, and has great artistic value. The portraits and the furniture were formerly at Frederiksborg, but saved from the fire in 1859. The chair and table in the middle of the floor were formerly used when the king opened the session of the Highest Court of Appeal. Frederik IV. was one of the most liberal and art-loving Danish monarchs, although he spent much money in successful warfare, and left a full treasury at his death. Next to Christian IV., no one has left more relics at Rosenborg. The Mirror Room is a very curious conceit—the walls, ceiling, and even the floor, being entirely of glass, affording the most extraordinary views of the reflected figure. Further on is a small room with models of Thorvaldsen’s works in gilt bronze. In the Ante-Chamber of the Princess is a sword which belonged to Charles XII. of Sweden, and was pre¬ sented to him by Colonel Kruse, a Norwegian officer, who in 1716 de¬ fended himself with gallantry against a much larger Swedish force under the command of Charles XII. himself, and only surrendered when disabled by numerous wounds. In the Chinese Room are several reliefs in ivory by the Norwegian Magnus Berg (1730), some fine cabi¬ nets, a silver cup used by Peter the Great during his sojourn in Copen¬ hagen in 1716, and three splendid gold goblets—the family cup Holstein (1712), Eider (1720), and Homage (1721). The two latter commemorate, with proper inscriptions, the reunion of the whole of Schleswig, which so long had been a separate fief of the Danish crown with the Danish realm, whereby the Eider once more, after a short interval, became the southern frontier of Denmark. This great state act took place in the reign of 70 Boute 30 .—Copenhagen : Botanic Gardens. Frederik IV. in 1720. Unfortunately it was not followed by the proper administrative measures, and the tie between that duchy and the rest of Denmark, which was reknit in 1720, was again torn asunder in 1854, in spite of the inscription on the Eider cup “ that the Eider would never be separated from the hereditary kingdom of Frederik IV.” The larger room of Christian VI. contains the Vase of Magnus Berg, and the Hirschhoim goblet, surmounted by a silver pine¬ apple. The two following Rooms illustrate the time of Frederik V. (1746-1766); and that of Christian VII. (1766- 1808). They contain interesting cos¬ tumes, some good glass, a collection of rings, watches, gold pistols of Frederik V., memorials of the unfortunate Queen Caroline Mathilde, and a lathe for turn¬ ing ivory—a royal passion. Four other rooms on this floor illus¬ trate the times of Frederik VI. (1808- 1839); Christian VIII. (1839-1848); and Frederik VII. (1848-1863). They contain costumes and pictures, but are not of special interest. The second floor is entirely taken up by the Riddeesal, or great ban¬ queting hall, 150 ft. long, 28 wide, and 19 high. Its present decoration dates from the time of Frederik IV., the chimneys being all that is left of the time of Christian IV. The ceiling was originally flat, adorned with paintings, and the present vaulted ceiling, with its beautiful plaster reliefs, was constructed in 1705. The royal silver font of 1720, weighing 180 oz., used for baptisms in the royal family, is a work of great artistic merit. When used, a golden vessel is placed inside the font. On the walls are 12 large pieces of tapestry, woven in Denmark in the time of Christian V., from the cartoons of the Danish artist Peder Andersen , and representing events in the war between Denmark and Sweden from 1675 to 1679. Originally the floor of this hall, as of most of the rooms of the castle, were laid with tiles, but they have been removed long ago and replaced by boards, because the weight was supposed to be too great for the walls of the building. The silver candelabra and lions are generally used at the coronations of the Danish kings, as also are the two chairs at one end of the hall. The larger, in which the king on that occasion is seated, consists to a great extent of the ivory of the narwal, which material was worth its weight in silver, and it was then consequently a very expensive production. A piece of glass is observed near the top, where a large amethyst, said to be the finest in existence, and which is preserved with the regalia, is placed at coronations. From the Great Hall small doors lead into the rooms in the towers. One of these contains a Col¬ lection op Venetian Glass, brought home from Italy by King Frederik IV., and still preserved in its original arrangement (1709). The collection is the richest in existence, particularly in the so-called thread or filigree-glass (vetro di trina). The other turret- room contains a splendid collection of china , both foreign—such as old Dresden, Meissen, and blue Sevres— and old Danish. On the Boulevard occupying the place of the former rampart, outside Rosenborg, is the well-arranged Ob¬ servatory (D. 5), permission to see which must be obtained of the Direc¬ tor. In front of it stands a Statue of Tycho Brahe (1546-1601), by Bissen. Close by is the Botanic Garden (Adm., see p. 56), removed from Gam- melholm to the level space, formed by filling up the moat opposite the Com¬ mune Hospital;—the Surgical Aca¬ demy, with various collections, phy¬ siological and Chemical Laboratories, the latter situated in Ny Vestergade, and one of the largest and best in Europe. The Polytechnic School was founded in 1829 at the instigation of H. C. Orsted, the celebrated discoverer of electro¬ magnetism, and for a long time one of its directors. N. of the Botanic Garden is a large Museum, in course of construction. 71 Route 20 .— Copenhagen: Nyhoder. S.W. of the Botanic Garden is the Orsted Park, a small but very pretty garden, ornamented with water, shrubs, and statues — chiefly copies from the antique. Among the origi¬ nals are H. C. Orsted, by Jerichctu, and the Maid of Orleans, by Chapu. Continuing S., and passing the Rly. Stat., we reach the Tivoli (E. 4, 5), a gigantic Cremorne, with theatre, con¬ certs, circus, switchback railway, pano¬ ramas, fireworks, a ship moored in a lake, and an infinity of miscellaneous attractions. All classes of society here mix and meet together—a strik¬ ing feature in Danish out-of-door life which the English traveller should not fail to see. On certain evenings (enquire at the hotel) the music is classical, and really worth hearing. There are of course several Restaurants, where hundreds of people may be seen at supper between 8 and 11. The establishment is without its equal in any country. A small part of the ground was taken for the Exhibition Building erected in 1872, now some¬ times used for the exhibition of modern pictures. At No. 8 Vesterbrogade, on the 2nd floor (Adm., see p. 56), is the Dansk Folke Museum, an interesting national Collection of wood carv¬ ings, furniture, embroidery, goblets, crockery, cabinets, and cradles. Here is a Danish cottage room, with all its fittings, besides other apartments, affording a glimpse of the private life of the people. From the Kongens Nytorv the Bredgade leads in a few minutes N. to Count Moltke’s Collection of Pic¬ tures (D. 6), at the corner of the first street on the left. The paintings are mostly of the Dutch School, and were collected by Count Gottlob Moltke in the middle of the last cent. (Adm., see p. 56). The best pic¬ tures are four landscapes, by Ruysdael (56-59) ; an old woman, by Rembrandt (36); a monk, by Rubens (8); land¬ scapes, by Hobbema (60, 61) ; boats and a calm sea, by Dubbels (103); male portrait, by Chr. Amberger (2); portrait, by B. van der Heist (38) ; boy’s head, by Greuze (122); and ex¬ amples by Mieris, Metsu, Ostade , Teniers, IVouwerman, Vandervelde , and Pynalier . Further on standing back from the street to the left, is the so-called Marble Church (D. 6), commenced in 1749, abandoned for want of funds, and now in course of completion at the expense of Bank-director Tietgen. Close by, flush with the street, is the Russian Church, with three gilded cupolas. We now pass on the rt. the An¬ thropological Museum (Adm., see p. 56), the Roman Catholic Church , and the large Frederik’s Hospital (D. 6, 7), connected with the School of Medicine. Other monuments of local charity are the City or Com¬ mune Hospital (C. 5), a very extensive brick building (850 beds), erected at a cost of 150,000Z.. and well worthy of a visit from professional men. The Var- tou Hospital is a large red-brick build¬ ing of the 17th cent., near the western gate, and the city contains four dif¬ ferent colonies of workmen’s houses, somewhat like the Peabody buildings, calculated to afford convenient and salubrious dwellings for the working classes, and yet to return a fair dividend to the owners. The Infant Nurseries and the charities of the different trades are very numerous. The Institution for the Blind (B. 6) at Osterbro, just north of the citadel, is a handsome red - brick building erected in 1858, with excellent in¬ ternal arrangements. Turning to the left at the end of the Bredgate, we reach the Nyboder (new booths), a curious colony of long, low buildings, erected by Christian IV., to accommodate the great number of workmen and sailors, who, in those days, were permanently retained for service in the royal dockyards. Close by is the Church of St. Paul. To the E. of the Bredgate lies the 72 Route 20 .—Copenhagen : Amalieborg (D. 6, 7), consisting of four small palaces, originally built by rich noblemen, but acquired by the king after the destruction of Chris- tiansborg in 1794. This is now the principal royal residence. In the middle of the open space is a bronze equestrian Statue of Frederik V. The two buildings connected by a colon¬ nade are inhabited by the king; the one with the clock by the Crown Prince ; and the fourth by the Foreign Minister. The street which intersects the Amalieborg leads N. to the Lange Linie (C. 7), a promenade and drive between the citadel and the harbour. Before entering it we pass on the left the very attractive and prettily situ¬ ated English Church of St. Alban, designed by Mr. Blomfield. It was consecrated on Sept. 17, 1887, in the presence of the Prince and Princess of Wales, the Czar and Czarina, the King and Queen of Denmark, and the King and Queen of Greece. Close by is the Meteorological Institute. On the rt. is the Custom House, and further on, to the left, the Pavilion of the Yacht Club. Nearly in front of it is a monu¬ ment to the naval hero Ivar Huitfeld (1710), who sank his ship “ Danebrog,” in the Swedish war, surrounded with cannons raised from the sunken vessel (see Rte. 25). Beyond it there are sea- baths, and nearly opposite the Tre Kroner and Lynetten batteries. A card of admission is required for driving or riding in the Lange Linie, easily pro¬ cured at the hotel. Further on, standing back from the water, are the Blind Institute (see above), and the Deaf and Dumb Asylum. S.W. of these two buildings lie the Garrison Cemetery and the Holmens Kirltegaard (1666), with a monument over those who fell in the battle with the English fleet under Nelson, April 2, 1801. In the Assistens Kirlcegaard, 1 m. W., in the suburb of Norrebro, is the grave of Hans Christian Andersen (d. Aug. 4, 1875). Beyond the Rly. Stat. on the W. Ny-Carlsberg Glyptotheh. side of the city stands the Palace of Frederiksberg (E. E. 1, 2), which with its park stands in about the same relation to Copenhagen as Kensington to London, is now used as a military academy. A tramway, which tra¬ verses the whole city, terminates at the gates of the park. Just outside is a bronze Statue by Bissen, of Ered- erik VI. (1839), who used to spend the summer here. He is represented in the act of giving audience. The *view over Copenhagen from the terrace in front of the Palace is charming. The W. portion of the Park is walled off and appropriated to the Zoological Gardens. S. of the Palace, on the opposite side of the road, is the pleasant Park o£ *Sonder- marlien , containing the reservoir for the water supply of the city. At the S.E. corner of the Park is the very important *Ny-Carlsberg Glyptothek, founded by Carl Jacobsen, and now one of the finest Collections of Sculpture in Northern Europe. (Adm., see p. 56. Catalogue in Danish, 35 6. ; in French, for the modern works only, 65 o.) The temporary entrance is at the corner of Room VIII., which contains Roman Portrait Busts. 1226. Man’s head in travertine, of unknown but extremely early date. 1227. Relief of Gaius Septumius, found in the necropolis at Vulci. 1236. Brutus the Younger. 1137. Servilia, his mother; and 1238, 1239, Junia Se- cunda and Junia Tertia, his sisters (these three doubtful). 1235. Pom- pey. 1240. Antonia the Elder. 1241. Antonia the Younger (both doubtful). Small bronze bust of Augustus, with¬ out number. 1244. Marcus Vipsanius Agrippa. 1243. Li via. 1245. Agrip¬ pina the Elder. 1246. Caligula. 1248. Agrippina the Younger. 1250. Dru- sus the Younger. 1253. Lady of the Haterii family. 1251. Messalina, third wife of Claudius, in transparent alabaster. 1252. Youthful Nero, found in the Tiber. Small bronze bust of Domitian, without number. 1254. Julia, daughter of Titus. 1257. Hadrian. 1258. Antinous. 1260. PLAN OF COPENHAGEN Trekroner vaten ams f aelle A Hotels. Hd'Antjleterre E. 4 8l JLKongen a/'Danmark* E. 5 Id ELDaumuxr D 5. C H. Phoenix E. 4* (L K. National 3 >. 5 e K Central D. 5 i PL Jem bane I). 5 g KBellexaie D, 5. ll Grand, Hotel E. 5 orr '.CITADEL. ^tLPtzrantce nehxLs EUERIKSHAVN oml oncaftoj. 'ONGtH' )' i grkptfjcX FaeUed KALVEBQD STRAJfD || Jesus fluircA -A. Z Eru/lij/i Aide London John Mnrrav Albemarle Street. . ' . Route 20.— Copenhagen: Antoninus Pius. Greek Statue of a Boy with fruit. 1263. Annius Yerus, a boy of seven. 1291. Sarcophagus with the story of Bacchus and Ariadne, from the Villa Casali (Rome). 1295. Sarcophagus with the legend of Mars- yas. 1293. Relief of Victory. 1298. Sarcophagus, with the Myth of Phaeton. 1304. Sarcophagus with the’history of Jonah. Rooms V., VI. (Empress-Saloon). Statue of Bacchus, without number. Draped Statue of a woman, with its head changed (no number). 1099. Colossal bust of a bearded Bacchus. Colossal Hercules, without number. In the apse are sitting Statues of the Empress Maria of Russia, by Jean Gautlierin, and the Princess of Wales, by Chapu. The frieze, by Sinding, represents the Walhalla. Several of the plinths, pedestals, and short columns in this and the adjoining room are of porta santa, verde antico, Serravezza, and other Roman marbles. Room IV. Frieze of the Bagnaroh , or Twilight of the Gods, by Freund, destroyed in the fire at the Christians- borg Palace, and copied by Sinding . 1045. Head of a Woman in relief, from a tomb at Taranto. 1062. Statue of a Woman with a cloak thrown over her head. In the centre, on a plinth of Marmo Ajfricano, colossal Statue of Juno, from the Villa Borghese. 1224. Priest of Apollo, from Nemi. 1079. Colossal head of a Goddess. 1081. Colossal head of a Youth, found at Tarsus. Statue of Anacreon, with¬ out number, from the Villa Borghese. 1052. Ganymede. 1050. Young Her¬ cules. 1051. Cupid, without legs or arms. Room III. (Greek Heads and Busts). 1020. Youth, without a nose. 1083. Young Man; beside it, without number, Portrait of a Youth, from the Villa Borghese. Bronze Statue of a Young Man. 1073. Girl, of Greek design but Roman execution. 1072. Athlete. 1071. Attic Youths. 1037. Hermes, tiny, under glass. 1034. Archaic Dionysus, from Athens. 1028, 1035. Early Attic heads. 1033, 1035. Zeus. 1027. Hermes or Vulcan. Ny-Carlsberg Glyptotheh. 73 1029. Lion’s head, from a Greek fountain. 1021. Youth, from Cyprus. In the centre, under glass, Head of Pan in clay; torso of a Faun, from Palestrina. The frieze is a represen¬ tation of Alexander’s marriage with Roxana, by Jeriohau. Room II. (Hall of Ceres). Girl bathing, Shepherd boy, and Orestes— all by Bissen, who also modelled the coloured frieze of Ceres and Bacchus, destroyed in the fire at Christians- borg, and here replaced by a cast. Jericliau: Adam and Eve. Sinding: Slave-girl. Sir F. Leighton: Athlete strangling a serpent. Room I. (intended as a Vestibule). French works, chiefly original casts for Statues, by Rude, Ge'rome, Chapu, Gautlierin, and others. The series is extended into the large adjacent Room XVI. Several of the examples are in bronze or marble. A succession of Cabinets, XV.-X., now lead back to the entrance hall. Cabinet X. 1001. Egyptian Statue in black granite. 1002. Statue of Anubis, in black granite (about b.c. 1500). 1005. Head of Ammon Ra, in black granite. 1006. Osiris, sta¬ tuette in red granite (about b.c. 700). 1007. Egyptian Prince and his Mother, in black granite (about b.c. 500). 1008. Bronze Statuette of Anubis. Several other Statuettes in bronze, and Vases of Egyptian ala¬ baster. Cabinet XIV. Statues, busts, re¬ liefs, and other * Antiquities from Palmyra, very important and interest¬ ing. It is the largest collection of the kind in existence, and has been well described by the learned Rabbi, D. Simonsen (French translation of 1885). Cabinet XIII. Statuette of St. Francis, in wood, by Alonso Cano. Marble relief of the Virgin and Chil¬ dren, by Mino da Fiesole. Relief of St. Jerome, and of St. John Baptist— attributed to the same sculptor. The two following Cabinets contain modern French works of art, and small groups, heads, and figures, in terra-cotta. Cabinet X. Etruscan urns, friezes, 74 Route 21 .—Copenhagen to Klampenborg. and other antiquities from tombs at Vulci, Cervetri, and Chiusi. Glass bottles and works in terra-cotta. 1220. Balustrade, from Cervetri, with a winged woman in Greek style (terra¬ cotta). 1192. Relief of a horseman. 1214, 1215. Cinerary Urns in ala¬ baster, from Citta della Pieve—the latter well coloured and gilded. 1213. Sarcophagus from Vulci, with very interesting sculptures, representing a death-scene, in which are introduced Charon and a Fury. ^Excursions from Copenhagen (see Rtes. 21, 22, 23). ROUTE 21. COPENHAGEN TO KLAMPENBORG. Rly. to (8 m.) Klampenborg in 25 min., every hour at least, and oftener on Sun. and holidays. Fare, 60, 40, and 25 ore. Stations, Norrebro, Hell - erup, and Chcirlottenlund. The railways on the island of Zea¬ land enable the traveller to visit most of the places claiming his attention in excursions from Copenhagen, and he may select any one or more of the places mentioned below, and combine them in any order he pleases. (Com¬ pare, for the Rly. journey, and for places on the coast-line which may be reached by steamer, Rte. 22.) The immediate neighbourhood of Copenhagen is flat and sparingly tim¬ bered, and the island of Amciger offers absolutely nothing of interest. The inhabitants are descendants of Dutch colonists who settled here in 1516, and have to a great extent preserved their national costumes. The whole island is an immense nursery garden, supply¬ ing Copenhagen with vegetables. But on Zealand itself, at a distance of about 5 to 10 m. N. of the capital, there are extensive tracts of wood¬ land, stretching, through a consider¬ able area, partly along the sea, partly surrounding numerous small inland lakes, and affording many pretty ex¬ cursions. In spite of its high latitude, the summer in Copenhagen is often oppressively hot, and the townspeople go north to seek summer quarters— often very modest and at the same time very expensive ones-—in the neighbourhood. The favourite place of resort is the Strandvei, or road along the sea¬ shore, as well as the villages to the north of the town. The hundreds of large and small houses and pretty gar¬ dens, inhabited during the summer months, which are scattered over the country, give it a very lively and pretty appearance. Copenhagen to Klampenborg, from a separate Stat., a little N. of the cen¬ tral terminus (E. 4). This Rly. affords an easy and quick communication with these places; but it is preferable (though certainly more expensive) to take a carriage and drive N. by the Strandvei or N.-W. by the high road towards Lyngby to those parts of the neighbourhood which can thus be visited. The price for a two-horse carriage varies from 10 to 20 kr. a day, besides 3 or 4 kr. for the driver and his food. The Rly. follows the main line to¬ wards Helsingor as far as 3 m. Hellerup, and then branches to the rt. 4 m. Charlottenlund Stat. [It may be reached also from the Kongens Nytorv by Horse Tramway as far as the Triangel (B. 5), whence a Steam Tramway runs in 25 min. to Chariot- tenborg, 10 min. to SJwvshoved, and 10 min. more to Klampenborg .] Here is a park—or rather a mixture of wood and garden—covering about 80 acres, and surrounding a country house be¬ longing to the Crown, and generally tenanted by some member of the Royal Family. On Sunday afternoons and feast-days thousands fill its walks and glades ; dancing and music is going on till late at night, and when the last train and the last omnibus or char-a-banc have returned to town there are still many hundreds left, who prefer to walk home with song and 75 Route 21 .— Lyngby — SJcodsborg. merriment in the cool of a Danish summer night. Close to Charlotten- lund are capital sea-baths at the Ore- 8und. The carriage-road branches N.W.W. through a magnificent lime avenue to Bernstorff, a manor-house built a century ago by Count A. P. Bernstorff, an influential man in Denmark, now in possession of the Crown, and used by the Royal Family as a summer re¬ sidence. 10 min. S. is the Stat. of Gjentofte (Rte. 22). f m. N.W. of Bernstorff is Jsegersborg,8$ where the Hussars have Barracks ; and 1 m. fur¬ ther (8 m. from Copenhagen) is Lyngby Stat.,^ with the small palace and beautiful park of Sorgenfri (beau¬ tiful roses), residence of the late Queen Dowager, from whence the extensive woods of Frederilcsdal (£ m. W.), sur¬ rounding the lake of Fure So, may be reached by road or in a boat on the lake of Lyngby. 1 m. N. of Lyngby is Horsholm (see below). Continuing the journey by the Strandvei for about 8 m. beyond Char- lottenlund we come to the *Deer-park (Dyrehave), the gem of the environs of Copenhagen. From the Rly., as well as from the Strandvei, the Deer- park is entered at the S.E. corner. Just outside, with a good view of the Sound and close to the landing-place of the steamers, is the Bellevue restau- raut, where the steamers land. A little further on, at the S.E. corner of the park, are the favourite sea-baths of Klampenborg Stat.,S$ where the branch Rly. ends. Many Swedes and Germans come here for the summer. 10 min. N. is the village of Taarbx The Deer-park itself is an enclosure of about 4200 acres, divided in two parts by( a small river, which supplies the necessary water-power for a large paper-mill at the outfall in the Sound, and for two manufactories in the park itself. The southern part, about 2800 acres with fine timber, especially mag¬ nificent beeches, is a Royal preserve, and vast herds of stags, red deer, and fallow deer, may be seen grazing on its glades or lying down under the trees. The large white stags are par¬ ticularly beautiful. In the middle of an open space stands the Eremitage^ (Hermitage), a small Royal hunting-pavilion. Some of the rooms (very plain inside) are acces¬ sible to the public, and can be used for pic-nics. The view across the Sound to the coast of Sweden is very fine. On the 5th June a great national festivity is generally held here in honour of the Danish constitution. At a little distance are three large stones with inscrip¬ tions erected, one in commemoration of the first meeting here of students from all the Scandinavian universities; the two others commemorate visits to Copenhagen by a great number of Schleswigers in 1861, and again in 1865. In the southern part of the enclosure is an open space called Dyreliavsbcik- hen, where a very animated fair is held every year in June and July. Roads and paths cross the park in every di¬ rection. One road runs parallel with the southern fence by Dyrehavsbakken, and leads from the gate at Klampen¬ borg to that of Fortunen.l where just outside the park a fine distant view of Copenhagen and the sea presents itself. The continuation of the road leads through the wood, and the above-men¬ tioned avenue to Bernstorff, which is seen in the foreground, and further on to Charlottenlund. The rt. road leads through open fields to Lyngby (see above). The narrow slip of land between the park and the sea is studded with villas of every shade of size or elegance, amongst which is Skodsborg,^ where Frederik VII. used to spend a few months every summer. 2 m. N. are the villages of Vedhseh with the park of Fnrum,$£ and 2 m._ further Rungsted. The coast is here in many places high, and alfords splendid views of the sea. The best points are Lohe- shoi to the rt. of the road, just north of the Deer-park, and Ewaldhbi, near the inn at Rungsted, where the poet Ewald spent his last years. The island of 76 Route 22 .—Copenhagen to Hehingdr. Hveen, where the astronomer, Tycho Brahe resided, and where the founda¬ tions of his castle and observatory are still seen, is only 7 m. distant; to the south of it, on the more distant coast of Sweden, appears the town of Lands- krona; towards the north Kronborg on the Danish coast is distinctly seen. 2 m. inland from Rungsted is Horsholm,^2 where Christian IV. erected a magnificent palace in 1733- 1744. It was called the Versailles of the north, and certainly surpassed most royal residences in splendour. Here Caroline Mathilde spent her last summers in Denmark. Frederik VI., who was born here, but disliked the palace, suffered it to fall into decay, and in 1810 its demolition was ordered. Where the palace stood is now a small plain church. But of the surrounding grounds a portion at least remains. Hence a road leads S. to (10 m.) Lyngby, and S.W. to (6 m.) Birkerod Stat. (Rte. 22). ROUTE 22. COPENHAGEN TO HELSINGOR. Miles. Stations. Routes. Copenhagen 20,21, 23 1 Norrebroj 4 Hellerup . .21 6 Gjentofte 8 Lyngby 12 Holte 14 Birkerod 18 Lillerod 22 Hillerod 1 Slotspavillonen 3 Kildeporthus 4 Gribso 6 Kagerup 9 Maarum 13 Graested 28 Fredensborg 32 Kvistgaard 36 Snekkersten 38 Helsingor Helsingor may be reached con¬ veniently, either by railway, carriage, or steamer. By taking the first train, Fredensborg may be seen on the way. A direct ticket to Helsingborg on the Swedish coast includes the passage of the steamer from Helsingor. Or the hurried traveller may take the first steamer, see Helsingborg, stop at Helsingor and Kronborg, and reach Frederiksborg in time for a glimpse of the Castle, returning to Copen¬ hagen by the last train. The steamer starts from the corner of the Havne Gade and Nyhavn (E. 6, 7). But it is better either to sleep at Helsingor, and next day take the train to Fre¬ densborg, see the park and Nord- mandsdalen, and pass on to Frederiks¬ borg (Hillerod) by train, or by car¬ riage. (an hour’s drive on a pretty road, offering to the rt. good views of Esrom Lake); or to drive in the afternoon to Fredensborg, return from thence to Copenhagen by rail, and make Frederiksborg the subject of a separate excursion. If more time is available, drive from Hel¬ singor by the old upper road to Helle- bsek, thence to Hornbxk, ordering the driver to stop below Odinshoi, while you ascend to enjoy the view; then back by Havreholm to Esrom, and round the lake by the road which skirts its shores to Fredensborg or Frederiksborg. Thence the drive may be prolonged to Frederiksvxrk ; up the fjord to Jxgerspris, and by Rly. from Frederikssund; or better, if not already visited, via Roskilde to Copenhagen. The coast of the Sound north of Copenhagen as far as Rungsted is excessively pretty from the sea when illuminated by the morning sun; it appears almost one immense garden with houses of every description dotted about; and as the ships passing the Sound to and from the Baltic almost all keep near to the Danish coast, partly on account of the prevalence of westerly winds, partly because the sandbanks are fewer—this circumstance contributes very much to heighten the charms of the journey. The stopping places are : (25 min.) Skovshoved; (10 min.) Bellevue, for Klampenborg; (5 min.) Taarbxk; (20 min.) Skodsborg; (10 77 Route 22 .—Roller up — Rillerod, min.) Vedbsek; (15 min.) Bungsted, for JE lorsliolm; (25 min.) Humlebsek; (40 min.) Helsingor. At Rungsted, Hum- lebsek, and at two other unimportant stations, small boats are used for landing. The Rly. describes a wide curve through the pretty Frederiksborg quarter, and passes the populous suburb of Norrebro. Thence to 4 m. Hellerup, the Junct. for Klam- penborg (Rte. 21). The train now bears N.W, to 6 m. Gjentofte. About ^ m. to the rt. is the royal chateau of Bernstorff (Rte. 21). 8 m. Lyngby,^ on the E. extremity of its pretty lake. Close by to the N. is the Villa of Sorgenfri (Sans Souci), with a charming little park, open to the public. 2 m. W., beyond the little Lyngby So, lies Frederiks- dal,^£ a charming villa belonging to Count Schulin, and surrounded by extensive woods. N. of it stretches the very attractive Fure So, whose S. bank the traveller may follow from the Villa to (4 m.) Fiskebxk, a mile due E. of which is Farum.^s on the N. bank of the little Farum So. Thence he may strike S. to (8 m.) Maalov Stat. (Rte. 23), passing the little (4 m.) Sonder So, which supplies Copenhagen with water. 12 m. Holte.^ Pleasant walk through woods E. to the village of (1| m.) Sollerod, and thence to (4 m.) Nxrum, close to the W. margin of the Dyrehave, which the pedestrian may thread to (6 m.) Skodsborg (Rte. 21). About a mile W. of Ilolte is the Chateau of Drohningaard on the Fure So. 14 m. Birkerod.^ Carriage-road N.E. to (6 m.) Hbrsholm (Rte. 21). 18 m. Lillerod.^ Further on, to the rt., lies the Store Dyrehave. At the N.W. extremity of the woods is 22 m. Hillerod (3700),^ whose name is almost eclipsed by the superior importance of the Royal Palace of *Fredericksborg Slot, which lies nearly a mile N.W. of the Stat. (Adm. daily from 9.30 to 4; in sum¬ mer also from 5 to 7; Catalogue in Danish, 25 o. Entrance by the middle door in the N. main building; tickets in the office to the rt., 35 o.). The Collection is admirably ar¬ ranged, and the gangway is so con* trived that the visitor may walk through the labyrinth of rooms alone, without the possibility of losing his way, or missing any object of interest. Having made the circuit of each floor in the prescribed order, he emerges at the foot of a staircase on the Court, and crosses it to inspect the Chapel. The original Castle of Frederiks¬ borg was built by Frederik II. in 1562, and a part of the present building dates from his time ; but the main portion was taken down and replaced by the present palace in the years 1602-1608 by Christian IV. On the 17th of Dec., 1859, a terrific fire destroyed almost the whole of the interior, and a great mass of valuable historical relics were lost, but the walls remained standing, and, thanks to the numerous descriptions and drawings in existence, it was pos¬ sible to restore the whole exterior of the Castle, as well as the interior of the Church in which six Danish kings have been crowned, to its ori¬ ginal condition, at a cost of about 40,OOOZ. The Castle is situated in a lake, on three islands, and is one of the noblest and most beautiful pa¬ laces in Europe. “ In the depths of the beech-woods is a great lake, in the centre of which, on three islands, united by bridges, rises the palace, most beautiful in its time-honoured hues of red brick and grey stone, with high roofs, richly sculptured windows, and wondrous towers and spires. Each view of the castle seems more picturesque than the last. It is a dream of architectural beauty, to which the great expanse of trans¬ parent waters and the deep verdure of the surrounding woods adds a 78 Route 22 .—Hillerod : Castle of Frederiksborg. mysterious charm.”— A. J. G. Hare. On the island nearest the town are two peculiar low round towers erected by Frederik II. The entrance to the second island is ornamented with a huge gate-tower, and beyond this the Castle, situated on the third island, presents itself. It consists of three sides of a courtyard, with a closed gallery on the fourth side at the en¬ trance, ornamented with rich and well-executed sculptures. The in¬ terior had already, at the time of the fire in 1859, sustained so many changes that scarcely anything re¬ mained in its original state, save the Banqueting Hall and the Church. The first corridor is painted by modern artists with legends of the Danish kings. Further on is a good copy of the Bayeux tapestry arranged in a series of small rooms. To this follows a Collection of Armour, and the Banquet Hall, a large, low room, with armed knights standing round the walls. A staircase now leads to the first floor, where is a handsome wainscoted hall with nu¬ merous coffers. Passing through a succession of similar rooms, contain¬ ing good cabinets, coffers, and other furniture, and commanding exquisite views over the lake, we reach a small turret-chamber with a curious as¬ tronomical clock. Hence a second staircase leads to a suite of rooms on the higher floor, containing bad pic¬ tures, but a few interesting prints and engravings. Some steps on the left now ascend to the Riddersal (Knights’ Hall), with black marble chimney-piece and columns, and fine tapestry on its walls. The remaining rooms on the second floor are only' remarkable for their admirable speci¬ mens of old furniture. We now de¬ scend to the first floor, where another suite of rooms is traversed, and a final descent leads into the courtyard, which is crossed to reach the Chapel. This very interesting building, though much damaged by the fire of 1859, was not entirely destroyed, and has since been partly re¬ built, and its decoration well restored. It was re-consecrated in 1864. The altar and pulpit, of ebony and mas¬ sive silver, as well as the font, were saved from the fire. Over the altar is a Crucifixion in silver gilt, with the Condemnation by Pilate and Entombment in silver on the wings; above, the Resurrection ; below, the Last Supper, with the four Evange¬ lists. At the back of the shutters, the Beheading of St. John and Mar¬ tyrdom of St. Sebastian ; outside the Tabernacle, panels of the Apostles, in silver plates. The Pulpit is adorned with silver statuettes of St. John Baptist and the Evangelists. Steps from the left hand corner be¬ hind the altar lead to the gallery, at the further end of which, facing the altar, is the Bedekammer or royal closet. It was ornamented with numerous pictures and carvings, the latter executed by Christian IV. him¬ self, but was entirely destroyed in the fire, and has been restored. It is decorated with 24 very beautiful pictures of New Testament subjects by Carl Bloch, full of dignity and tender feeling, and well worthy of minute study. In the Chapel are the coats-of-arms of the Knights of the Elephant, and of those who have re¬ ceived the Grand Cross of the Dannebrog. The Castle, as it now stands, is a monument not only of its builder Christian IV., but of the national feeling of the Danish people at large, by whose exertions the restoration after the fire alone was rendered possible. A peculiarity connected with the Castle is the great assem¬ blage of rooks from the neighbouring extensive forest, which takes place every afternoon about 6 o’clock. The roofs are black with the birds, which, after a short palaver, again separate and presently return. On the left of the entrance a path leads through a gateway to a pretty garden with luxuriant box hedges. 200 yds. to the left stands the Badstue, a very pretty little miniature Chateau, erected by Frederik II., and beauti¬ fully restored by Frederik VII. Re¬ turning to the high road, and thread- 79 Route 22 .— GribsJcov — Helsingor. ing the pretty gardens, we reach in 5 min. an Obelisk of granite to the memory of Christian YI. (1788-1818), adorned with a bronze genius holding a torch. A little further on is the Slotspavillon, a large and popular restaurant, where the park on this side comes to an end. A splendid view of the Castle is obtained from the Jsegerbakke, a few minutes’ walk from the garden. Another fine view is had from the Bokkesten , which forms part of a gigantic dolmen . south of the town. But the finest view in the neighbourhood, and one of the best in Denmark, is from the Skandsebakke (265 ft.), 1^ m. N.E. of the town. It embraces the lake of Esrom, and the Sound in the distance, besides the Castle with its terraced garden and ornamental sheets of water. [A branch Ely. runs N. from Hil- lerod to Gristed, passing a local Stat. for the Slotspavillon (see above), and soon reaching Kildeporthus, where the line enters the wild and romantic *Gribskov. This wooded tract of country encloses several picturesque little tarns, and is studded here and there with hillocks, from which good views are obtained. It is well worth exploring. The train now arrives at 4 m. Gribso,S^ with a pretty lake on the left. Fine view from the Frue- bjserg (215 ft.). S.E. a road leads to (3 m.) Ndddebo.%^ on the Esrom So. Further on is 9 m. Maarum Stat., the village lying 2 m. W. Hence a road leads N.E.E. to (3 m.) Esrom.^ prettily situated near the N. end of the Esrom So, on the site of a 12th cent. Cis¬ tercian monastery. The Ely. now curves N.W. to 13 m. Grsested,s£2 whence a road leads N.E. to (6 m.) Gilleleje, passing (2 m.) Soborg Slot (see below).] The main line, on quitting Hillerod, turns N.E., skirts the Gribskov on the left, and runs to 28 m. Fredensborg,£2 a little town which owes its origin to the royal summer residence built here at the beginning of the last century. It was finished in 1720, and so named be¬ cause the treaty of peace {Fred) which put an end to the “ eleven years’ war ” between Denmark and Sweden was concluded here. The Palace possesses but little internal beauty besides the entrance hall , which is very fine, and a few good old ceilings with stucco-reliefs in the style of Louis XIV. (fee, 1-6 persons, 2 kr.; 7-12, 4 kr.). But the Park abounds in magnificent avenues, charming flower-beds, terraces, and sculptures, and its beauty is much enhanced by the Lake of Esrom and its wooded shores. Boats can be had in the so- called Skipperhus. One of the chief features of the park is the *Nor- mandsdalen, containing 69 figures representing Norwegian peasants in national costumes. 10 m. S. of the Stat. is the village of Asminderdd. The train goes on to 32 m. Kvistgaard.s^ Pleasant walk S.E. by the old manor-house of Kro- gerup (see below) to (2| m.) Humle- baek,s^ one of the Steamboat stations on the Oresund. Good sea-fishing. 2s m. N. of the Ely. Stat. is Mariane- lund,^L whence a path leads N. in 10 min. to the beautiful *Gurre So. On the extreme S.E. point of the lake are the ruins of Gurre Slot (see below). Passing the fishing hamlet of Snek- kersten where the sea is reached, the train turns N., and skirts the shore, affording fine views of the Swedish coast, to 38 m. Helsingor.J$ The'Ely. Stat., a large and well-arranged building, stands at the end of the quay, only a few yds. distant from the landing- place of the steamers. Helsingor (11,000) is a very old town with a Gothic Townhall, rebuilt in 1855. The place formerly derived its wealth almost entirely from the Sound dues which were paid here by 80 Route 22 .—Helsingor : Castle. all vessels going to or coming from the Baltic. The payment of this impost, abolished in 1857, necessitated the stoppage of the vessels, which therefore often took their supplies here. Before 1660, when Skaniaj still belonged to Denmark, the main com¬ munication between the provinces on both sides of the Sound was by way of Helsingor, and the opposite port of Helsingborg on the Swedish coast, the width of the Sound being here not more than 2| m. Partly to facilitate the enforcement of the Sound dues, partly to prevent the passage of a hostile fleet, a fortified Castle was at a very early time constructed on each coast of the Sound. The one at Helsingborg has disappeared save an old square tower, prominently seen from the Danish coast; but that of Helsingor, the well-known Kronborg, still exists, though it is of no import¬ ance now as a fortress. The Sound dues were commuted in 1857 for a payment by the maritime nations of Northern Europe to the Danish Government, amounting to upwards of three millions sterling. The present Castle, a quadrangle, with towers at each angle, was built in 1574-1585, in the Renaissance style of the period, by Frederik II. and presents a very picturesque ap¬ pearance either from the sea or from the shore. The entrance is from the N. side, 15 min. walk from the harbour, a long circuit being necessary to pene¬ trate the surrounding fortifications. Tickets (at a door on the rt. in the Court), for the pictures, chapel, and tower, 30 d.; chapel alone, 20 o. ; casemates, 25 o. The pictures are not worth seeing, but the tower (185 ft.) commands a splendid *view. The Chapel, on the S. side of the Court, has galleries, seats, and a royal pew of curiously carved and gilded wood¬ work. At the altar is a crucifix of gilded marble, with the Sacrifice of Isaac and the Brazen Serpent in wood on the wings. The Chapel was re¬ stored in 1843. From the windows there is a lovely sea - view. Caroline Matliilde in¬ habited a small apartment here in 1772, before she was taken to Hanover (see introd. § 10), and her rooms are still shown. One of the turrets serves as a lighthouse. 1§ m. N. of the town is Marien- lyst,^ originally a Royal marine residence, now a much - frequented sea - bathing establishment. The grounds in front of the house are open to the public, but the building— containing balconies with fine view, reading-rooms, &c., and the terrace behind the house, are accessible only to subscribers, or for travellers on payment of 70 o. for the day. On the terrace behind the Chateau is the so-called Grave of Hamlet — a circle of trees round a fragment of a column. English travellers— innocently believing, on the authority of Shakespeare, that Hamlet really had something to do with Kronborg, although in reality he lived in quite a different part of the country, and a thousand years before Kronborg was built—used so constantly to ask the guides for Hamlet’s grave, that they found themselves under the necessity of inventing one, and some bright in¬ dividual hit upon this spot, which has ever since retained the name. Tourists, however, were not yet satisfied; as soon as a grave was found for Hamlet it became necessary to discover Ophelia’s brook, and this, too, was successfully accomplished. It is shown north of the garden, near a delightful path which runs at the foot of the high coast parallel with the shore to Hellebsek. The spot is pretty, and so far well chosen, but there are but very few inches of water in this modern Ophelia’s spring —a circumstance which unavoidably suggests the profane thought that the lady must have had some difficulty in drowning herself here. Many foreigners, mostly Germans, spend the summer at Marienlyst; the bathing is better than in the Baltic, and the neighbourhood pretty and interesting. The environs of Helsingor are well timbered, but the beauty of the place Route 22 .— Hellebselc — Esrom. 81 is the view of the sea, hacked by the charmingly wooded Swedish coast, with the headland of Kullen , a re¬ markable isolated mass of granite 900 ft. high, in the distance, and enlivened by hundreds of vessels constantly passing through this nar¬ row channel to or from the Baltic. In this respect Helsingor is unique; nowhere in the world are so many ships seen constantly together in movement, and to the lover of the sea and of ships few things can be more amusing than cruising about in a boat at the entrance of the Sound. [A very pretty drive through woods, and past beautiful little lakes, leads N.W. to (3 m.) Hellebaek.^ Here a considerable manufacture of fire-arms and various iron goods was established a century ago and exists in part still. In the summer the place is filled by people from Copenhagen, who come here to enjoy the fresh air and the bathing. The woods of Hellebaek, which form a park to the manor-house of that name, are laid out in pretty walks, and the timber is splendid. 10 min. beyond the village is Aals- gaard.%$ 2 m. further along the shore is OdinshoiS^ (140 ft.), the highest point on the coast, from which is gained a charming view of the entrance to the Sound and of Kronborg. 3 m. along the coast is Hornbsek,^ a fishing- village near a very characteristic plantation for subduing the drifting sand, and 5 m. beyond it, Nakkehoved, 2 m. short of which we cross the mouth of the canal which drains the Esrom So (see below). From the upper lighthouse is a very interesting sea-view, and in the pretty little garden—doubly pleasing in this deso¬ late spot—travellers can pic-nic, but provisions must be brought. About a mile further is Gilleleje,S^ on the northern extre¬ mity of Zealand (see above). The return road, if the traveller is driving, should be laid through (4 m. S.) Denmark. Soborg, a village near the scanty ruins of the once famous Castle of Soborg, in a lake which is now laid dry. Many state prisoners were kept here in the early middle ages. 2 m. S.W. lies Guested Stat. (see above). Continuing S.E., the road next reaches (4 m.) Esrom,^ once a powerful and wealthy monastery, of which only small fragments remain. It is at the north end of the lake of Ersom, with beautifully-wooded shores. A canal running N. (see above) connects it with the sea, and serves for the export of firewood from the adjoining forests. A good road leads due E. from Esrom to (9 m.) Helsingor, running a little north of the Lake of Gurre, through the woods of Horserbd; but it is worth while to turn S.E. about half way, and skirt the E. shore of the lake to the Ruins of Gurre. Gurre was in the early middle ages a favourite residence of se¬ veral Danish kings, particularly Val- demar II., whose paramour Tove- lille, of whom the old ballads have much to say, was kept hidden here. The legend says that Valdemar used to exclaim that God might keep his heaven, if he (the king) only might retain Gurre; and consequently his unhappy soul is still lingering there, and often of a night he is seen hunt¬ ing, with a mysterious and awful troop of followers, and a pack of fiery dogs. The Castle, situated in an idyllic spot near the lake and vil¬ lage of Gurre, fell into disuse in the 15th cent., and the stones were mostly used in the construction of Frederiksborg. The remains are now enclosed, and the key can be had in a cottage close by. 10 min. S.W., near Valdemarslund, the residence of the principal officer of the extensive woods in this district, which all belong tre- gentved , the seat of Count Moltlce, with a beautiful park (open to the public) and the best hothouses in Hen- mark. 8 m. SAV. of it lies Gisselj'eld , built in 1547, formerly the seat of the families of Oxe, Lykke, and others, now an almshouse for noble ladies, with fine gardens. Close to the next Stat. is Overdrevsbnlclcen , one of the highest points in Zealand (390 ft.), with a magnificent panorama. 38 m. Nestved (5500),has two churches which contain some old carving. Near St. Morten's is a very interesting old timber house with carved figures. St. Veter's, founded in the 13th cent., and soon afterwards destroyed by fire, has been rebuilt. The old Town Hall is interesting. 2 m. N.W. is Horlufsholm, a public school, founded by Herluf TroUe in 1590, and the only one in Denmark at all com¬ parable to the old public schools of England. It was originally a monas¬ tery established in 1261; at the time of the Reformation it was confiscated by the Crown, but afterwards ceded to Adm. Herluf Trolle in exchange for llillerodsholm, where Feeder ilisborg was afterwards built. Herluf Trolle was childless, and fell as an admiral of the fleet in a battle against the 80 Houle 25.— Lundby — Mbena Klimt. Swedes, but had previously destined the whole property to the foundation of a new school, and his widow Itirijilln (Jflya faithfully (tarried out his inten¬ tions. The buildings are shown by the servants. The Church has lolly pointed arches, and n good carved pul¬ pit and altar. The sarcophagi ol the founders, in black marble with ala¬ baster ornaments, are very handsome, and close to them is a beautiful altar with their figures in alabaster. A bout 5 hi. S. is the Castle of Oaunil, the scat of Duron Kccdtz Thott, a very extensive old building originally a convent. The Castle contains a large collection of pictures, of which the historical portraits form the most inte¬ resting part. One of them is attributed to Tintoretto. 2 m. further lies the village of Karrvhivlwmindeffi on its little fjord, a Quiet bathing-place. On Quitting Nestved the Kly. turns 8.E. to dh in. Lundby,8$ from which an omnibus runs Is. to (7 m.) I'ramllf, lassing the manor of Nyn/i, the seat of faron Stainpe, with beautiful gardens, '/'he principal part of the building was erected in Ib72. Thorvaldsen used to spend his last summers here, and the apartments which he occupied, as well us his studio, are still preserved unal¬ tered, and are shown to travellers. Pries to (1500) lies in a very pretty situation at the K. end of its land¬ locked fjord. Pleasant walk from the Church to the Harbour. Omn. .N. to Ha.xe, H. to l4 W>c}% ' Arnarf'ell it rnlklti yvinilarhofawen^ /^mm "J 1 W //1 aqaruja*€Ji r \Y ri m»i«u AIftan.es A formedsskerO.' «, ( 658 '^i 0 : ^ Melar< As (U 3 > o EyiLRji KSollyiarturfrfi . $ a-9 ujmo tn \ $ BAR Lirbaef"^ hh ■ \\ «!«//!• ^^jicnfjtiaa v pWi JVTosfe' 'rlji trh ijr ru?>'s/ . , kvoffiM Herb ja rrtsrrfr’U'K. ffPSM Fz/V'/vAV/.j^l^OV. r j c. vV ‘a 'SanUl.tJirg '§M?m Tyr^fKaldaoarEaeS' ffld NDVlKR.bR- isuvik * •' ..V Js&yyor ^ - l^g <*£??&* REYKJAVIK THE SOUTH; AND If i o \v rysv 3 4 Englisfi Mile s. 15 UeijgTubs ijj. f&eXj 22° - >, 5u ^ ?i *- y , ^ v g £rlen FeoruiMettriBA^ ^jamarey l£uAdA0k^ TABlt v K v:-rt. F V W*>77, . 115 Route 2 .—Reykjavik to Thingvellir. ROUTE 2. From 12 to 16 days. REYKJAVIK TO THINGVELLIR, THE GEYSIRS, GULLEOSS AND HEKLA, RETURNING BY EYEARBAKKI, EEY- KIR, AND THE HELLISHElSl. 1st day. Reykjavik to Thingvellir. The start should not take place later than 10 a.m. It is difficult to estimate distances, where there are no roads, and where the bridle-paths wind round the base of mountains. Captain Burton estimates the distance between Reykjavik and Thingvellir at 24 direct geographical miles, and 35 indirect statute miles. The journey lasts from 7 to 9 hrs. For a few miles out of Reykjavik there is a made road ; the Laxa is forded, and the path winds upwards among hills with small lakes on either side. Looking N.W. we see the Snasfells Jolcull; nearly due N. the Esja mountains; and to the W. the FaxafjorSr. Soon after the Hafra- vatn, the largest of the neighbouring lakes, is skirted, and we enter the Seljadalr, following the northern side of the valley. A halt is usually made for luncheon at a small stream skirting a narrow piece of morass, crossed by a causeway. The bridle-path is again taken up, and we skirt the S. and S.E. base of Grimmansfell. We are now about half-way to Thingvellir. As we proceed, two lakes, Leiru- vogsvatn and Geldingatjorn, are passed on the left, and we enter a stony barren waste called the Mosfellshei^Si (Mossfell-heath), and ride for about 1^ hr. on a well-made road. TheThing- vallavatn, the largest of Icelandic lakes, covering an area of nearly 40 square miles, comes into view; and we presently halt at the edge of a vast rift, more than 2 m. in length—the Almannagja, or All-Mens-Rift. We descend by a steep causeway to the bottom of it, ford the Oxard, and find ourselves close to Thingvellir Church and parsonage, not seen until quitting the rift. 2nd day. Thingvellir (lit. Plains of the Council , because the Icelandic Parliament met here for nearly nine centuries) is a depressed space nearly 4 m. long by 4 m. broad, enclosed for a portion of its length between two volcanic rifts—the Almannagja and the Hrafnagja (Raven’s Rift)—pro¬ bably the result of subsidence. They run N.E. between Thingvellir Lake and Armannsfell, and enclose a tract full of small crevasses, and covered by a very scanty vegetation. Be¬ tween the two main rifts, a great fissure divides into two branches, en¬ closing an oval mass of rock, called the Logherg, or Hill of Laws. It is surrounded on all sides by deep vol¬ canic crevasses containing clear water, and upon it formerly the Althing, or Parliament, assembled, while the people stood over against them on the Allmen’s rift, and watched the proceedings. The traveller will find abundant occupation for a day in visiting places of interest in and around Thingvellir: the waterfall to the N.W., formed by the Oxara ; the lalce to the S.W.; the Logherg, and the church. In j.878 the church was used for sleeping quarters, as was then univer¬ sally the case throughout Iceland; but owing to the unseemly behaviour of some travellers in 1879 in this church, the Bishop has refused to allow them ever again to be used for the purpose. The priest of Thingvellir has enlarged his house, however, and has fair accom¬ modation for several persons; if this is insufficient, a tent must be erected on the “ tun ” or grassfield around the I 2 116 Route 2 .—Thingvellir ; Geysirs. farm, or in the churchyard. Capital char may be caught in the lake, and this usually forms a staple dish at Thingvellir. The Church is a tarred wooden structure, 21 ft. long, 15£ ft. broad, and 12 ft. high, containing three windows on each side. It might contain 50 people. The pulpit dates from 1G83, and the altarpiece, which represents a Last Supper, is old. In front of the church there is an Ellstone, a block of vesicular lava 4 ft. 9 in. in height, upon the east face of which six lines are traced. It is said that formerly these served as standards of measure. They are respectively 21, 10J, 8, 7, 5, and 4 in. in length. Near the S. extremity of the Thing- vallavatn there is a range of hills, the highest of which is Hengill (a beetling crag). Columns of steam rise from different points upon its flanks, and a number of hot mineral springs are found in the vicinity. 3rd day. Thingvellir to the Geysirs. About 38 m. 8 to 10 hrs., including stoppages for luncheon and to feed the ponies. The start should take place not later than 9 a.m. Bridle path very rough. Progress slow at first. Cross eastern rift, the Hrafnagjd ; enter a bed of old lava ; path ascends to over 500 ft.; cross a heath called Lyng- dalsherSi; three peaks visible on the left, the Kalfstindar (Calf peaks). These peaks are also visible from the harbour of Reykjavik in clear weather, due east, and seem to be much nearer than they are in reality. Enter Laugardalr (Hot-spring dale) ; halt in a grassy valley to feed the ponies ; push on to a farm-house near the Laugarvatn; halt for luncheon, and to visit the hot springs on the border of the lake. A good view of Hekla is sometimes obtained from this point. After leaving Laugarvatn farm, a streamlet is crossed; leave MiZdalr on the left, and arrive at the Bruara (the river of the bridge, from a natural arch of rock which at one time spanned it), a river which is shallow except in the centre of its bed, where there is a deep volcanic crevasse into which the waters from either side fall. The rift is crossed by a few wooden planks, over which the ponies fear¬ lessly walk. During floods the bridge is covered by several feet of water, and the river must then be crossed by a boat, a little distance further down the stream. A stretch of rough country now leads by the southern base of Bjarn- arfell to Laugcifjall ; a morass is crossed, and a small affluent of the Tungujljot forded. The Laug farm is seen on rising ground above, and a few minutes later the steaming Geysir fields come into view. The tent should be pitched between the Great Geysir and the Strokkr. 4th day (and perhaps the 5th and 6th) will be spent in the vicinity of the geysirs, awaiting an eruption of the Great Geysir; irritating the Strokkr by doses of turf, visiting the smaller geysirs, hot springs, mud pools, and extinct geysirs, and exa¬ mining the rocks in the vicinity. A capital bird’s-eye view of the geysir fields is given in Baring Gould’s Ice¬ land, its Scenes and Sagas , and in Coles’ Summer Travelling in Iceland, while Prof. Bunsen, of Heidelberg, lias examined the principal geysirs from the scientific standpoint, and has explained their action. They are situated at the base of a hill of trachyte in the midst of a marsh of hot mud, which is roughly 500 yards in length (N.E. by S.W.) by 150 in breadth. Altogether there are nearly 50 hot springs at Haulcadalr (Hawkdale), some active, like the Great Geysir and Strokkr, others tranquil pools of boiling water, and others again full of boiling mud, coloured blue, or black, or red. The Great Geysir issues from a siliceous mound of its own making, raised 30 ft. above the surrounding plain; the basin at the summit is nearly circular, 66 ft. by 58, and 4 ft. in depth; the tube in the centre is 10 ft. in diameter and 82 ft. deep. On the N. side of the mound a rivulet of warm and very soft water carries 11 ? Houte 2.- away the overflow. If the day is moderately warm, this furnishes a de¬ licious open-air warm bath. The Great Geysir is very uncertain ; gene¬ rally an eruption takes place once in three days, although it is said that people have waited for seven, and even a fortnight in vain. Its power is evi¬ dently dying out. At the end of the last century it erupted six times daily. Usually a concussion of the ground, and loud subterranean noises herald an eruption. “ Five strokes under¬ ground were the signal, then an over¬ flow wetting every side of the mound. Presently a dome of water rose in the centre of the basin and fell again, immediately to be followed by a fresh bell, which sprang into the air full 40 ft. high, accompanied by a roaring burst of steam. Instantly the foun¬ tain began to play with the utmost violence, a column rushed up to the height of 90 or 100 ft. against the grey night sky with mighty volumes of white steam cloud rolling about it, and swept off by the breeze to fall in torrents of hot rain. Jets and lines of water tore their way through the cloud, or leaped high above its domed mass. The earth trembled and throbbed during the explosion; then the column sank, started up again, dropped once more, and seemed to be sucked back into earth.” ( Baring Gould.) The Strokkr (Churn) Geysir is 44 ft. in depth, and 9 ft. in diameter at the top; the tube gradually contracts until at 27 ft. from the mouth it has a diameter of only 19 in. Water may ordinarily be seen violently boiling about 8 ft. below the mouth. By putting two or three score of large pieces of turf into the Stokkr, the narrow tube is blocked up, and an eruption speedily follows; the turf, churned up into mud, is ejected to a considerable height (commonly ex¬ ceeding that of the Great Geysir), and jets of water follow in girandoles in rapid succession. The display some¬ times lasts for 20 minutes, often for 10. The Otherrishola A few minutes -Gullfoss. walk from the Great Geysir to the W. is a little geysir often overlooked by travellers, which always may be made active by putting a piece of turf into its narrow mouth. The water is thrown up to the height of some 15 ft., and the eruption lasts for 20 min. or more. Blesi is a double pool of hot water, filling a cavernous structure, lined with pale pink siliceous sinter. It stands about a dozen yards to the N. of the Great Geysir. Meat may be capitally boiled in it, and it furnishes hot water for coffee and evening grog. Interesting specimens of Geyserite and Pcilagonite may be obtained from the geysir fields and the rocks to the N. 5th day. Eauhadalr to Gullfoss and Idruni. or 3 hours’ ride nearly due W. from the Geysir fields brings us to the fine Gullfoss (Gold-fall) waterfall, where the river Hvita falls from two opposite sides into a cleft. The river immediately above the fall descends somewhat rapidly over a series of terraces, and narrows just before it plunges into the crevasse. The waterfall itself and the surround¬ ing scenery are very fine, and should on no account be omitted from the traveller’s programme. After leaving the Gullfoss, a S.W. route is followed, between the Tun- gufljot and the Hvita, as far as Brse&ratunga Farm, where the Hvita must be crossed by a ferry boat, while the ponies swim. The Hvita, or White River, is a broad and deep glacier stream, which flows from the Hvitarvatn; after receiving its tri¬ butary Sog from Thingvallavatn, it is called the Olfusa, and enters the sea near Eyrarbakki. A good deal ot time is occupied on the banks in saddling and unsaddling the ponies, and transferring baggage to the boat. Afterwards the Minni Laxa has to be forded, and a swamp to be crossed. A wear) da) ’s march brings us at length to Eruni (Ruins), where the hospitable priest, Johanna Briem, and his son, Sira Steindor Briem, are sure to receive the traveller very cordially. 118 'Route 2 .—Galtalselcr Farm, 6th day. Hruni to Galtaltekr Farm. The valley of the Laxa is followed, and the river presently forded ; 2 hrs. later the banks of the Thjorsa (Bull River) are reached, and the river crossed by a boat while the ponies swim. An hour and a half’s ride nearly due S. brings us to Stdruvellir (Stourfields). A brisk ride over a flat plain strewn with pumice and volcanic ash, leads us to Galtalse.hr Farm (Hogbrook), our quarters for the night. Here the tents are pitched, and a guide secured for the morrow. Accommodation moderate. [T ravellers who wish to visit the scene of the eruption of 1878, which took place about 4 m. to the N.E. of Hekla, will take a guide from the Galtalsekr, and spend the next day in exploring the new craters and lava fields,] 8th day. Ascent of Hekla.—( Hekla , hooded frock, in allusion to its mantle of snow.) The start should be made not later than 8 a.m. A guide must be procured from Galtalseker or the Nsefrholt (Birch-copse) Farm (5 or 6 kroners). The ascent occupies about 5 hrs. The highest point (5108 ft.), is the N.E. wall of the northernmost crater. The following account was written by the author after his ascent of the moun¬ tain on August 23rd, 1878 : “ We left Galtalcekr Farm at 9.40 a.m., taking with us Geir Ztega, our guide from Reykjavik, together with the occupant of the Nsefrholt Farm. Having crossed the Vestri Ranga, we pro¬ ceeded nearly due S., passed the Nsefrholt Farm, near which we came upon the lava of 1845, and then passed over some very rough lava-strewn ground covered with volcanic ash, which concealed holes into which the ponies sometimes stumbled and fell. The lava of 1845 is covered with the same moss which we noticed on the old lava near the crater of 1878, which causes it to look nquch older. When the ascent became steeper we left the ponies. Distance to the foot of the steep incline about 7 m. from Galtaltekr. Followed the S. boundary of the lava field of 1845, until we reached a steep incline, which we ascended. Crossed a small portion of the old lava field, then a tract covered with volcanic ashes, and finally found ourselves at the bottom of a steep slope covered with snow, beneath which water was heard rushing downwards. The ascent of this slope without alpenstocks was not easy. Several other snow slopes were crossed, and we then found our¬ selves near the crater of 1845. Above this we saw a crater with a red smoking mound within it; then in succession the third and fourth craters, and beyond the most easterly crater, a nearly level snow-covered waste full of lava blocks. From the most easterly extremity of this, which was reached at 2.30 p.m., we looked down upon the principal crater of 1878. The summit of Hekla is covered with much ash, sand and red pumice, toge¬ ther with lavas of every degree of compactness, from the most vesicular to obsidian. The descent over the snow slopes was troublesome, but we regained the spot at which we had left the ponies at 5 p.m. Hekla was ascended for the first time in 1770. The difficulties of the ascent have been much exaggerated subsequently. It is really a very easy mountain to climb, and the only thing to be dreaded is the descent of a thick fog while one is on the highest slopes of the mountain.” 9 th day .f Galtalaekr Farm to Eyrar- bakki.—A very long day’s journey. The start should be made at 8 a.m. The first rest will be made at Storu- vellir, where a guide to the other side of the Thjorsa should be procured. The river will be crossed nearly 20 m. S.W. of Stdruvellir, near Kdlfholt; f The following is an alternative route from Galtalcekr to Reykjavik — in some respects more convenient than that via Eyrarbakki. [9 th day. Galtaleekr to Laugardeelir, or to Setfoss, near the bridge.—The doctor of the district lives at Laugardeelir. He is the son of the late priest at Stdruvellir, very hospitable, and speaks excellent English. At the farm Selfoss good accommodation may also be had. 10th day. Laugardeelir to Reykjavik, by Reyldr. —A made road from the bridge extends nearly to Reykir.] Route 3 .— The S. W. Peninsula. 119 at Villingaholt , on the W. side of the river. If the start has been late, or the ponies are tired, it will be well to rest here for the night. If not push on to Eyrarbakki (Beach bank), which is about 16 m. from Villangaholt. 10 th day. Will probably be spent at Eyrarbakki, where there is a capital store, the cultivated and genial pro¬ prietor of which will give the tra¬ veller any information he may require. 11 th day. Eyrarbakki to Reykir. 1 hrs. About 12 m. The Olfusa is crossed near Selfoss below Laugardse- lir by a suspension bridge, erected 1891 by Yaughan and Dymond, engi¬ neers. A fine view of Hekla and the Southern Jokullsis seen to the E. if the day be clear. After crossing the river we skirt the southern base of Ingolfs- f ‘jail, and soon after arrive at the farm of Reykir, where is the geysir known as the “ Geysir in (the district of) Olfus.” Accommodation bad. Weather fre¬ quently rainy, even in the best seasons. Here there formerly existed geysirs as at Haukadalr, and 100 years ago they were in full activity, rising to a height of 70 ft.; but in consequence of an earthquake the geysirs became mere hot wells of water, into the clear depths of which one may look without fear of a scalding due to a sudden eruption. A variety of siliceous sinters may be found in the vicinity, and the place is interesting as fur¬ nishing an example of old geysir ac¬ tion. We are now due S. of the Thingvellir lake, and about 7 m. from it. Ingolfsfjall is on the E., Skalafell on the W., and the broad mouth of Olfusa nearly due S, 12th day. Reykir to Reykjavik. A ride of 8 or 9 hrs. We ascend from Reykir to the HellisheiZi (Cave- heath), an elevated bleak tract of lava, worn and furrowed by ice, water, and wintry storms. When the writer crossed it in August 1879, a fearful storm of wind and rain swept over its bare surface. The rain was rendered almost horizontal by the wind, and at intervals masses of fog drifted over the scene. We descend on the W. side by the Hellisskarft (Cave-pass). In doing so, two large craters are seen on the mountain to the left. The southern crater is 258 ft. high, and the northern 220 ft. Just at the foot of the pass stands a little house called KolviZarholl, intended to be a shelter for travellers across the Hellisheiir on the E. side of the Blanda (good quarters), and 4th day Au<5olfssta<5ir to Haukagil along the N. shore of Swineavatn (Swine Lake), passing by the N. base of Vatnsdalsfjall and enter the Vatnsdal. mountain track. Arrived at Haukagil, near Grrimstungur at 4 p.m. Accom¬ modation good. An excellent type of the better kind of Icelandic farm. Trout-fishing in the Vatnsdalsa. Ba¬ saltic dykes and other geological fea¬ tures of interest. The traveller is re¬ commended to stay here for several days if he has time. 5th day. A very wearisome ride of some 60 m. over rough lava- covered highlands. The start should be made as early as 5 a.m. ; and an extra guide and dog must be taken. A late start may involve camping out on the bare wind-swept high¬ land, without hay, milk, or fire, and exposed to great inclemencies. We started at a good pace over a lava- strewn plain, the GrimstunguheiZi, which we presently exchanged for the Vv&idalstunguhev&i. The Eyrilis Jolcull appeared comparatively close. Halted by the shores of the Arnarvatn- sheifti (Eagle Lake Heath) for rest and luncheon. Rounded N.W. side of the Eyrik’s Jokull, from which glaciers were seen to be descending. Conspicu¬ ous terminal moraines on N. side. En¬ tered upon another lava tract, the Thorvaldshals , passed the Surtshellir caves, and the Strutr mountain, and arrived at Kalmanstunga between 8 and 9 p.m., having been more than 14 hrs. on the journey. Fine view of Geitland’s Jokull. Slept in tent. Accommodation at Kalmanstunga very bad. Farm-house extremely dirty. 6th day. Remained at Kalmans¬ tunga to rest the ponies, and to visit the Surtshellir Cave, a few miles dis¬ tant, 1650 yds. long, 100 yds. broad, and 70 yds. high, where it has the great¬ est width. It consists of vast tunnels in the lava, the floors of which are covered with ice near the entrance, while in many places large icicles hang from the roof. The floor of the largest becomes more and more rough and rugged as you proceed, and at the furthest point to which it is possible to penetrate without difficulty, there is a kind of cairn 124 Route 5.— North-Eastern Iceland. upon which various coins are placed. Several smaller caves are in the im¬ mediate vicinity. Returned by the valley of the NorSlingafljot. 7th day. A ride of nearly 40 m. to Thingvellir necessitates an early start. Paid at Kalmanstunga 51 kr. (2 1. 17s.), an exorbitant charge, although it in¬ cluded 10 kr. for a lamb (which was cooked so disgustingly that we could not eat it), and 6 kr. for the guide to the Surtshellir caves—the farmer him¬ self. Started at 5 a.m. ; passed be¬ tween Ok and the Geitland’s Jokull, over a rough lava tract — the Kal- didcdr (the cold dale). A piercing wind descended from the Jokulls. At 10.30 a.m. stopped at Brunnar, near a small lake; SkjaldbreiZ in full view for most of the way. Later in the day we rounded the E. base of Armansfell, and entered the Thingvellir valley. Slept in a tent in the churchyard. 8 th day. Thingvellir to Beyhjavih, as in Rte. 2. Baring Gould, in Iceland, its Scenes and Sagas (1863), has graphically described some of the scenery of this Route. ROUTE 5. NORTH-EASTERN ICELAND. AKUREYRI. LJOSAVATN. MULI. GO^AFOSS. HUSAVIK. UXAHVER. AS. ASBYRGI. REYKJABLIcS. DETTIFOSS. MYVATN. IIVERFJALL. SKUTUSTaSiR. SVART- ARKOT. ASKJA. AKUREYRI. (About 3 weeks. Approximately 250 m. Consult Burton, Watts, and W. G. Lock. The route of the latter has been taken in the following description.) lsi day. Akureyri (Rte. 4) to Ljosavatn, 6 hrs. The range of hills (Va$lahei<5i, 2300 ft.) to the E. of Akureyri are crossed, the Fnjosha forded. A made road crosses the VaSlaheiSi nearly to the fording- place of Fnjoska. Luncheon at the parsonage Hals (neck) ; then pass the Ljosavatnsskar<5, and the lake soon comes into view. Ljosavatn (the bright lake) is very picturesque, sur¬ rounded by steep mountains. It con¬ tains plenty of trout, which are said to reach the weight of 8 lbs., and ducks and wild geese may be shot after the 20th July. Accommodation good at a farmhouse which lies to the S.E. of the lake. Remains of old craters and volcanic debris in the neighbourhood. 2nd day. Ljosavatn to Midi by way of the GoZafoss. A ride over comparatively level moorland leads to a great bridge (erected 1884) which crosses the river Shjdlfandafljot , a short distance below the Go^afoss. The fall is picturesque, but scarcely grand. Half a mile from the GoSafoss there is a second fall, but of only 15 ft.— the Geitafoss; while 5 m. lower the river once more falls in the Ullarfoss. There is good shooting and fishing in the neighbourhood. After leaving the Skjalfandafljot, a chain of hills which have to be crossed, and Muli, to the N. of the Vestmannsvatn, is presently reached. 3rd day. Muli to Laxamyri or Ilusavih. The Laxa is forded by Fagrafit. The river is broad and rather deep, but bottom good. Then you go direct to the Uxahver or the Northern Gey sir, etc. The path is not bad. The farmer at Laxamyri wall always be glad to receive English travellers. To the N. there are curious lava pillars, and cones. Some of the latter have openings at the base as well as above, and are used as sheepfolds. The Laxa is forded be¬ tween Nes and the farm Laxamyri. W. G. Lock says: “This farm is the richest in all Iceland, and the newly- erected farmhouse is wholly of wood in the Norwegian style. The farmer declines to receive travellers; and it will be as well, perhaps, to mention that Englishmen are not very well received in this district, thanks to a defaulting and bankrupt English sulphur-mining company, whose resi- Route 5 .—Husavik ; Dettifoss. dent agent quitted the country with* out settling the debts he had contracted with the people here.” From Laxa- myri to Husavik is an hour’s ride. There is a small inn. Both the Danish steamers and those of Messrs. Slimon call at Husavik several times in the summer. Herra GuSjohnsson is the only merchant; he speaks English well. 4:th day. The Uxahver, or North¬ ern Geysir, is 3 hrs.’ ride from Laxa- myri, and may either be visited from that place or from Husavik. An ox is said to have once fallen into it, and afterwards to have been ejected, hence the name Ox-spring. It is a geysir which gushes from a basin about 10 ft. in diameter, as a column of water 6 to 10 ft. in height by 4 ft. in diameter. Only a few minutes elapse between two eruptions. There are many other geysirs in the immediate vicinity, of all sizes, none of which spout to any height. There is a farm at Reyltir , close to the springs, where the ponies can be left, and coffee can be obtained. Return to Husavik. 5 th day. Laxamyri or Husavik to Hringvershvilft , on the coast, etc., and HallbjarnarstaZir a little further to the N. In the Hallbjarnarsta%a- Itambur there are remarkable fossil shells. Return to Husavik. Gth day. Husavik to As. This route leads due E. of Husavik at starting, and afterwards trends S. Interesting records of volcanic phe¬ nomena will be noted, particularly a number of paraljel rifts. After rest¬ ing at Gar%r, Asbyrgi, a remarkable triangular valley surrounded by pre¬ cipitous cliffs, will be reached. A small forest of birch flourishes within the enclosure, the home of numerous coveys of grouse. Accommodation at As farm not good, but people obliging. At a very little lake in the Asbyrgi there is a wonderful echo. The Asbyrgi must on no account be omitted from the programme of the traveller who visits those northern parts of the island. A local guide 125 should be taken from As to the Detti¬ foss and ReykjahliS. ✓ 7th day. As to ReyhjahlrS, by way of the HljoSaklettar (echoing cliffs), and the Dettifoss. Start early. The HljoSaklettar are precipitous cliffs which furnish a fine echo, and there are groups of craters in the vicinity. The scenery along the valley of the Jokulsa—a mighty river draining the N.E. flanks of the Vatna Jokull—is very fine. Svinadalr farm for rest and luncheon, on leaving which, two waterfalls, the Vigabjargsfoss and the Hafragilsfoss, will be passed, and a gorge, through which the Jokulsa passes, and later we arrive at The Dettifoss, the most celebrated of the Icelandic waterfalls, where the Jokulsa throws itself over a mass of columnar basalt, and falls into a chasm 200 ft. in depth. Baring Gould writes : “ I have no hesitation in saying that Dettifoss is not only the finest sight in Iceland, but is quite unequalled in Europe: it amply repays the toil of a journey to it in its fastnesses . . . The wreaths of water sweeping down, the frenzy of the confined streams where they meet, shooting into each other from either side at the apex of an angle ; the wild rebound when they strike a head of rock, lurching out halfway down; the fitful gleam of battling torrents obtained through a veil of eddying vapour; the geysir spouts which blow up about 70 ft. from holes wheuce basaltic columns have been shot by the force of the descend¬ ing water; the blasts of spray which rush upwards and burst into fierce showers on the brink, feeding rills which plunge over the edge as soon as they are born ; the white writhing vortex below, with now land then an ice-green wave tearing through the foam, to lash against the walls ; the thunder and bellowing of the water, which make the rock shudder under foot, are all stamped on my mind with a vividness which it will take years to efface.” The route from the Dettifoss takes 126 Route 5.— Myvatn — Ashja. a S.W. direction, and passes over a group of volcanic hills by the Ndm- ashar%, or Solfatara pass. Myvatn lake, which is the next in size to Thingvallavatn, soon comes into view, and the final halt is made at the farm at Beyhjahlift. There are Reindeer in this dis¬ trict. Mr. W. G. Lock, who on more than one occasion has successfully stalked them, writes: “ If the travel¬ lers wish to get a shot at one of these animals, they should, if here in the month of August, strike due W. from the Dettifoss for a lake near a moun¬ tain named Eilifr (the eternal). S.W. of this lake is an abandoned ruinous farmhouse, known as the IlliZarhagi (Hlid-Reykjahli<5 = pas¬ ture lands), wherein the author has frequently passed a night, as it is right in the heart of the habitat of a herd of reindeer.” 8th day. The numerous Solfatara around Reykjahli<5 may be visited. They resemble those at Krisuvik (Rte. 3), and are situated in a plain of hot viscous clay and mud. The boiling mud-cauldrons lie on the E. side of the plain. The mud is blue or black, and steam constantly escapes from it, ejecting the spray to a height of several feet. On the S. is the largest crater of the Myvatn, the picturesque Hverfjall, district. It is 700 ft. in height, and 1600 above the level of the sea. Myvatn means Midge Lake, and a more significant name could not have been given it. The traveller who in¬ tends to visit Myvatn must not forget his mosquito veil, for the midges are often very annoying. In no place in Iceland are there so many species of ducks as on the Myvatn Lake. They are seen in hundreds, and breed on the many beautiful little islands in the lake. Sluttnes, one of the islands, is particularly fine, and should be visited. 9th day. From Reykjahli<5 to Leirhnuhr, Krafla , and the Hrafntin- nuhryggr. 3 hrs.’ ride to Leirhnuhr, on the W. side of which some re¬ markable evidences of former volca¬ nic action will be seen. The volcano erupted in 1725, 1727, 1728, and 1729. There are two large craters on the W. side of Krafla. The Hrafntinnu- hryggr (Obsidian Ridge) is a ridge of volcanic rocks, partly formed of obsi¬ dian Hrafntinna (raven stone) means obsidian. 10th day. An excursion may be made to the lava flow of 1875 in the Myvatns Oraefi, 4 hrs.’ ride to the E. of ReykjahlicS, returning in the evening. Rut if the traveller has already visited the lava - streams around Hekla, it is not likely that he will care to see these. llth day. ReykjahlicS to Shutu- staflir. Good accommodation at the priest’s house. Trout fishing and grouse shooting. The route leads through a wild volcanic district. 12^ day. Skutusta£ir to Svart- drhot (Black-river-cot)—6 hrs.’ ride. Krdhd to be forded. Grouse plenti- tul. Accommodation moderate. 18th day. At Svartarhot rest ponies, in preparation for a hard day s work on the morrow. If ponies can be hired from the farmer, ride to the Eldeyjafoss, a fine water¬ fall on the Shjdlfandafljot , S.W. of Svartarkot. nth day. From Svartarkot to Askja. (Consult Ashja: Iceland's largest Volcano. By Wm. Geo. Lock. 1881.) Mr. Lock recommends sleep all day, and a start at 6 p.m., so as to commence the ascent of the moun¬ tain at sunrise, and have all the day for exploration. The journey across the desert OddZahraun, ascent of Askja, and descent into the crater, occupies 11 hrs., to which 4 hrs. of haid work must be added for crossing the floor of the crater to the site of the eruption of 1875. Einar, the faimer at Svartarkot, must be taken as guide. The charge for himself and two ponies is 20 kr. (11. 2s. Gd.). Only good ponies should be taken, and sacks of hay must be carried for them, Route 6 .—The N.W. Peninsula. 127 and plenty of food for the travellers also. An hour’s ride over moorland leads to the Su%rci, the course of which is followed for 4 m., and soon after quitting the river, the lava desert is entered. It is about 1500 ft. above the sea, and is made up of lavas of all ages. After 6 hrs. of slow and weary transit over the OdaSahraun, the base of Askja is reached. The ascent winds gently upwards until a height of 3500 ft. has been attained; it then becomes steeper, and the rim of the crater is crossed by Jonsshar $, a pass usually filled with rotten ice. On attaining the highest point, the vast crater is seen several hundred feet below. The circumference is between 17 and 18 m., the area at least 23 sq. m., and the rim of the crater rises from 800 to 1500 ft. above the floor. The mean height of the volcano approaches 5000 ft. The peaks are snow-clad for 10 months of the year, and there is a glacier to the E. of the pass, 4 m. long by 1 m. wide. The floor of the crater is covered with lava of various ages, with pumice erupted in 1875, and with the waters of a warm lake 5 m. in cir¬ cumference. It is very rough walk¬ ing across the lava, and progress cannot be made at a greater rate than 1 m. in an hour. A pumice crater 250 ft. above the floor rises in the S.E. of the main crater. 600 ft. below it, there is a lake formed by subsidence in 1875. S.E. of the lake there is a deep gorge, bounded by precipices 600 ft. in height. Having left Svartarkot at 6 p.m. and travelled through the night, if all goes well, the traveller will find himself at the foot of the pass about 5 a.m. of the 15 tli day. Suppose that 12 hrs. are given to the exploration of the crater—ending at 5 p.m. —the moun¬ tain can be descended before night¬ fall, and the return journey to Svar¬ tarkot will take place through the night. The travellers will arrive at 4 or 5 a.m. of the 16th day at Svartarkot Farm, after an absence of about 36 hrs., and will be glad to turn in for a long sleep for most of the day. It must not be forgotten that violent snowstorms, sandstorms, and fierce winds sometimes prevail on Askja, even in summer; fogs are also preva¬ lent, and the weather must be care¬ fully watched before setting out for the mountain. Einar must particu¬ larly be consulted. Prof. Johnstrup’s party was snowed up in July 1876 in the crater of Askja, by a snow¬ storm which lasted 36 hrs. Mr. Lock witnessed a sandstorm within the crater, in which a column of sand about 200 ft. in height was whirled up in the air. 17 tli day. Svartarkot to Stdru- vellir. A short journey. The Skjal- fandafljot is forded near Lundabrekka Church. ISth day. Storuvellir to ATtureyri by way of Ljosavatn. If it is desired to return by Sey’&isfjorZr (4 days), the route from Svartarkot will be Svar- tarhot , Shutustaftir, Reyhjalift, Grim- sta%ir, MoZrudalr , Hofteigr, Sey- %isfjor%r. ROUTE 6. THE N.W. PENINSULA. This is a tour which occupies about a month. It offers no particular at¬ tractions to the traveller, and w T e should not recommend any one to undertake it, unless he has very spe¬ cial reasons for doing so. Consult Shepherd’s North-West Peninsula of Iceland (1867), and W. G. Lock’s Guide to Iceland (1882). The geueral arrangements of the tour as described in these books are as follows;— 128 Route 6 .—Snsefells Jokull. 1st day . Reykjavik to Reynivellir (6 hrs.). 2nd day. Reynivellir to Hestr. The bottom of the HvalfjorSr (whale firth) rounded, the northern shore of the HvaljorSr skirted for a while, the Ferstiklnhals crossed, then Svfnadalr and Shorradalr with its beautiful lake. Luncheon in the Svfnadalr. Good accommodation at the parsonage of Hestr. 3rd day. Hestr by Reykholt to Stafholt. Many rivers forded ; good fishing in some of them. Numerous hot springs in the Reykjadalur (steam dale). Most remarkable is the Arhver (river hot spring). It is situated on a mound in the river, of about 12 ft. in height. Luncheon at Reykholt. An interesting place, both historically and otherwise. Snorri Sturluson, the author of the prose Edda, lived here, and his bath, a circular structure of masonry, 15 ft. in diameter, is still shown. There are numerous hot springs at Reykholt, as the name im¬ plies, and geysirs of all sizes and degrees of activity. The Hvita has to be forded. There is good fish¬ ing in the vicinity. Good quarters at the Stafholt parsonage. Mh day. Stafholt to Sta%arhraun. Three rivers will have to be forded. Bad bogs exist in this part of Iceland, and the discomforts of travelling are sometimes great. 5th day. StaSarhraun to Mildalwlt. Three rivers to be forded. Eldborg passed on the left. This volcano is said to have been in eruption about the time when Iceland was first colo¬ nised at the end of the 9th century, Campbell says the crater is about 400 yards in diameter, and 200 ft. deep. 6th day. Miklaholt to Bitf&ir, by the shore of the FaxafjorSr, stopping for rest and luncheon at Sta%asta%r. 1th day. Bu<5ir to Ingjaldshott, per ¬ haps the best place for the ascent of the Snsefells Jokull. Basaltic caves of Stapi, should be visited. Sir John Stanley says of the caves near Stapi: “ We rowed into the caves, one of which is as grand, and much more curious, than Fingal’s Cave, from the twisting of the columns, and a hole in the roof, through which you can see the mountains above it—a conical out¬ rigger of the great Jokull.”—John Barron : ‘ A Visit to Iceland* The Snsefells Jokull was ascended for the first time in the year 1753 by two Icelanders, Eggert Olavsen and Bjarni Povelsen, who have given account of their ascent in their ‘ Reise giennem Island,’ vol. i. pp. 278-288. They made the ascent from Ingjalds- holl on the N. side, passed the old crater Skal (basin), climbed the Geld- ingafell, and from there they began the ascent of the Jokull itself. They succeeded in reaching the top, which consists of 3 peaks; these are all of the same height, viz., about 320 ft., and very steep. They climbed to the very summit of the E. peak, which they describe as being flat above, be¬ tween 16 to 18 ft. in diameter. Though it was sunshine, they could scarcely bear the cold at 9 a.m. The Jokull was steepest on the S., and there were innumerable rifts in the ice ; on the N. side one large rift stretching over one-third of the mountain and very deep ; on the W. side they saw no rifts. The view was magnificent all over the country. They reached the farm again at mid-day, having left it at 1 o’clock in the night, thus perform¬ ing the whole ascent and descent in 11 hrs. The next travellers who attempted this Jokull, July 14th, 1789, were Mr., afterward Sir, John Stanley and Mr. Wright, who has given a most interesting account of their perilous ascent, published for the first time in John Barron’s ‘ A Visit to Iceland ,’ in the summer of 1834. They began the ascent from the S. Since that time many have made vain efforts to ascend it. 8th day. Ingjaldsholl to Grundar- fjbr%r. The precipitous headland Enni (Forehead) is passed by the beach at 129 Halite G.— Stykkisholmr. low water, and dlafsvik, a trading vil¬ lage, traversed, then a second head¬ land called BulandshofcSi. The route across this headland has been de¬ scribed as very dangerous, but the dangers have been greatly exagge¬ rated, though the traveller must proceed cautiously. The path leads along the side of the headland across steep mountain slides ; the roar of the break¬ ers below can be heard. The path is very narrow, some 350 ft. above the sea. Those who are apt to get giddy should not pass here. Before reach¬ ing Grundarfjd%r notice the two curiously-shaped headlands, one called by sailors Likkista (the coffin), the other Sykurtoppr (sugar loaf), [\,\, 9 tli day. GrundarfjorSr [to^Styk- kisholmr by Helgafell. Lock says, “ The Holy-fell is situated on a penin¬ sula jutting northward into the BreiSi- fjorS, which is connected with the mainland by a narrow isthmus between two miniature fjords. In the old heathen days the hill was sacred to the god Thor; and no one was allowed even to gaze on the holy height with¬ out first having subjected himself to bodily ablution. The hill itself is curious, being formed of irregular co¬ lumnar basalt, and from its summit a fair view over the Broadfjord and its countless volcanic isles is obtainable. This famous fell was chosen as a site for one of the earliest Christian churches erected in Iceland. In the Eyrbyggia Saga is a lengthy acccount of the in¬ trigues of Snorri Go$i, a priest of Thor, who officiated here.” 10 tli day. Best at Stykkishdlmr. 11 th day. Stykkisholmr to Breit%a- bolsta%r. 12 th day. Brei$abolsta<5r to Hjar%- arholt. [Helgafell to Stykkisholmr. The latter is a port at which the Danish steamers call. Several merchants con¬ sequently reside here; among them Herr Clausen, who speaks English well, and will give to the traveller any information in his power. An excursion should be made to one or more of the volcanic islands off the i Denmark. coast. Take care before starting that the boat does not leak. The Icelandic boats commonly require at least one man to bale them out continuously. At Thorsnes , about 3 m. N.E. of Hel¬ gafell, there is an ancient Doom-ring, and sacrificial stone.] 13 th day. Hjar<5arholt to dlafsdalr. Halt for luncheon in Svinadalr, near one of the streams running through it; road not bad. The 6lafsdalr is an agricultural school. The farmer and principal of the school is a cultivated man and speaks English well. Large wooden house in Norwegian style. Accommodation capital. lWi day. Olafsdalr to in Kroksfjord, where the doctor of the district lives. Accommodation good. Another Gullfoss will be seen by the way, near Kleifar. The waterfall is fine ; some 150 ft. in height. Road not good. Halt for luncheon near the parsonage of Garpsdalr. If you find this journey too short, you can easily push on to KollabuKir. Accommoda¬ tion poor ; people obliging. 15 th day. Boer (or KollabuSir) to Kirkjubol. From this point an ascent of the Gldmu Jokull (2954) may be attempted. [Two or three days will be required for this.] 1 Gth day. Kirkjubol to Armuli. Short journey. Good quarters. A guide may be procured for the Drauga- jokull (2918 ft.). 17 th day. Ascent of the Dranga- jdkull Fully described by Shepherd. 18 th day. Armuli to Isafjor^Sr b) a boat (8 hrs.). This is a port at which the Danish steamers call. There is a small inn and many stores. This vil¬ lage has the largest population, next to Reykjavik, of any place in Iceland, but does not exceed 900. 19 th day. The traveller can now either return to Reykjavik direct in 8 or 9 days ; or he may possibly find a Scotch or Danish steamer at the port bound for Reykjavik, or even for Leith. There is very little chance of find- K 130 Other Boutes iug a steamer at BorcSeyri, as the steamers do not call there as often as they did formerly, nor is it ad¬ visable to go to Akureyri, as the steamers, when they call there, make so short a stay, that there is consider¬ able risk of losing them. Moreover, the journey from lsaijordr to Akureyri takes as long a time as to Reyk¬ javik, whence steamers frequently ply direct to Scotland or England. 20 th day. An excursion by boat should be made to Os, where there are deposits of lignite ( Surtarbrandr ). It is mixed with shale, and contains the remains of large trees. Above are great masses of basalt and other vol¬ canic rock. OTHER ROUTES. Other Routes than those mentioned are rarely followed. If they are attempted, the work becomes almost akin to exploration. The interior of Iceland is not much known. Starting for Sprengisandr from ReykjahlicS you round the Myvatn, ford the Laxd at GeirastaSir, take luncheon at Gaullond, and halt for the night at Lundabrekka. Good quarters. Next day Lundabrekka, across Skjal- fandafljot to lsholl,a poor farm, where a guide must be procured for the Sprengisandr. From Haukadalr is a route between Langjokull and Hopjokull, leading to SkagafjordSr, called Kjalvegr (the route is marked on the large map, but the name is not given) •> out of this route, N.E. of Hveravellir, lies another route known as the Vatnahjallavegr. This route is very seldom used. 1. The Sprengisandr was crossed in 1870 and again in 1881, once from N.E. to S.W., once in the reverse direction. Starting from Husavik, Mr. C. Le Neve Foster halted the first night at Sioruvellir; the second at Isholl, on the edge of the desert; the third, fsholl to KiZagil (Kid’s glen : S. Coast. or rift), the last oasis before the Sprengisandr. The rift is very fine. High perpendicular basaltic rocks on each side, of wonderfully r regular formation, with a brook running through it and forming a beautiful cascade. The fourth, near Arnarfells Jokull; the fifth, at Hagi, near Hruni, when to Reykjavik was 2 days’ rapid riding. (This Route is shown by a red line on the map.) 2. The S. coast may be traversed if the rivers are not too much flooded. The route as far as Storuvellir by way of Thingvellir, Haukadalr, and Hekla is described in Rte. 2, thence pro¬ ceed by way of Brei%abolsta%ir, Hli%a- rendi, to Asar. At the latter place an attempt should be made to visit the remarkable volcano Iiatla, concerning which we have very scant informa¬ tion, although it has frequently been in a state of fearful eruption. From Asar to Kalfafell. is the next journey, and from Kalfafell to Nupstatir, whence Mr. Watts started for his famous journey across the Vatna Jokull. Thence by Snxfell,' reaching the base of the great Orxfa Joliull, the highest mountain in the island. This mountain (6400 ft.) was ascended on 17th Aug., 1891, by Mr. F. W. W. Howell, F.R.G.S. He started from Sandfell at 4 a.m. with 3 Icelandic “followers” and an English friend, who returned during the morning with one of the Icelanders. The others, Pall Jonsson and Thorlakur Thor- laksson of Svfnafell, can now act as guides. At 7 a.m. they were 3000 ft. above sea level ; at 10 o’clock upon the snow-fields; at 12 o’clock, 5000 ft.; at 1 p.m. only 5200 ft., on account of a rift ; at 4 o’clock, upon the South¬ ern peak, to which, through a mis¬ understanding, he had been directed, a detour which cost 4 hours; at 7^ they reached the summit. The ex¬ pedition occupied 21 ^ hrs. in all; 18 hrs. will in future be found ample. A coast line by Hof, Fell, Holtar, and Stafafell will lead to Berufjord; at which port the Danish steamers do not call; or the route must be continued further N. to EskifjorS, and Seydis Other Routes: fjorfcr. (This Route is nearly all traced by a dotted red line on the map.) 3. Mr. W. L. Watts, in 1875, suc¬ ceeded in crossing the vast tract of unexplored country, some 3000 square miles in extent, known as the Vatna Jokull ( vide map). Starting from N upstair, he made his way across the Jokull to Kistufell, thence by Askja , and Her%ubrei%, to Reykjahlift, and so to Husavik. An account of his very interesting adventures will be found in Across the Vatna Jokull. (Longmans, 1876.) 4. Another Route from Reykjavik to Akureyri across the Sprengisandr is known as the Vatnahjallavegr Route. It occupies 7 days ; and the traveller proceeds to Haukadalr, as in Rte. 2. Thence to the N.E. base of Blafell (camp); a point due E. of Hveravellir (camp); and the third resting-place ( EyjafjarXardalr) is only 6 or 7 hrs. Vatnahjallavegr. 131 distant from Akureyri. ( Vide the red dotted line on the map.) There is still a good deal of un¬ explored country in Iceland, deserts and jokulls to be crossed, and virgin peaks to be ascended. There is no country so near home in which ex¬ ploration can be so easily attempted, and we recommend it to Alpine Club men, and to the young and enterprising generally. If exploration is really desired, let the traveller be careful to read the Hints to Travellers published by the Geographical Society, and to provide himself with a good pocket aneroid in a case, and a compass, thermometers, good maps, and very special appliances for resisting wintry nights passed upon elevated jokulls, or in the midst of lava deserts, which Messrs. Silver, of 67 Cornhill, will be the most likely to supply. A “ Garnet Wolseley” sleeping bag is indis¬ pensable. * * 1 . INDEX R. = Room. A. = Attendance. L. = Candle. B. = Breakfast, D. = Dinner. The first number after the name indicates the page on which the place is described. A, AABENRAA. See Apen- RADE. Aaby, 25, 40, Aabybrq, 40, Aagaard, 41. AAKIRKEBY, 92, 91. II. Petersen, small, R. If kr., D. If kr. Omn. in If hr. to (10 m.) Nexo, If kr.; to Rbnne, the same. Carriage to Nexo 4 or 6 kr.; to Almindingen, 3 or 4 kr, AA1BJEK, 25. Village Inn. AALBORG, 23, 39, 40. *H. Phoenix, R., L., A., If to 3f kr., B. 75 b., D. 2f kr., cold supper If kr. Omn. 35 b. Dil. to Sseby in 7 hrs., 4 kr.; to Lindenborg in 2f hrs., I kr. Steamer to Copenhagen in 12 hrs., 10 kr. Aalholm, 89, 90. AALSGAARD, 81, Hotel tolerable and mode¬ rate. Aalso, 35. A alum Church, 22. AARHUS, 20, 22, 31, 32, 33, 65, 85, [4]. Here are two stations, the Hovedbanegaard, S. of the town, and the Ostbanegaard, on the N.E., for Grenaa and 1 Denmark. —v. 99.] ( 133 ) AND DIRECTORY, 1899. Ryomgaard. Omn. from Stat. to. Stat. 35 b. Hotels: Royal, near the Cathedral, R., L., A., If to 3f kr., B. 75 o., D. 2 kr., cold supper at 7, If kr. SIcandinavien. Central , near the principal Stat. Cafe (and Confectioner): Rozzi, near the Cathedral. Aakslev, 46. AARUP, 43. Very small Inn. Dil. N. in 2 f hrs. to (14 in.) Bogense, 1 kr. 80 b. Aas, 32. Aastrup, 84. Aberdeen, 113. Aborrebjerget, 87. Abrahamstrup, 82. ACbelo, 45. iERo, Island, 17, 47. iEROSKJOBING, 47. H. Harmonitn, small but tolerable. Omn. to Marstal, 65 b. Steamer to Svendborg in If hr., 2 kr. AGGER, 39, 63. Country Inn. Agger, canal, 39. Aggersborg, 40. Aggerso, Island, 88. AGGERSUND, 40, 41. Inn at each side of the Ferry. Aigholm, 35. Akranes, 120. Akrey, 114. Akureyri, 122, 97, 123, 124, 127, 130, 131. Alhede, 36. Alken, 31. Allerup Barker, 23. ALLINGAABRO, 34. Inn. ALLINGE, 91, 92, 93. II. Marcher, unpretend¬ ing. Carriages from Munck and Nyholm. To Saodvig 2 or 3 kr.; to Helligbom’ 5 or 8 kr.; for a three days’ excursion, 5 or 10 kr. a day with 1 kr. a day to the coachl man. Dil. to Rbnne, 2 kr. All-Men’s-Rift, 115. Almannagja, 115. Almindingen Wood, 91, 92, 94. Als, 17, 30, [15). Alser Sunde, 30. Alssund, 17, 30. Alster, R„ 3. ALTONA, 4, 3, 5. Hotels: Koniglieher Hof, opposite the Stat. ; Bahn- hofs-Hotel, close by ; Hol- steinisches Haus; all toler¬ ably good and reasonable. Restaurants : Plassen- burg; Fischborn. Warm Baths in the Bpr- ger Strasse. Cabs : The course, 75 pf. To Hamburg, 1 mark 80 pf. Post and Telegraph Office : 5 Behn Strasse. Steamer to Hamburg, fre¬ quently. Also down the river to Blankenese. Theatre: Stadt Theater, 164 Konig Strasse. Altrup, 23. Amager, Island, 9, 11, 55, 57, 74. Amalieborg, The, 71, 55. Amrum. 28. Amtmandssten, 93. Angeln, 29. Anholt, Island, 65. APENRADE, 17. II. de Vos. Steamer thrice daily to Sonderburg in 3 hrs. (3 marks). L 134 INDEX AND DIRECTORY, ARNBQRG, 32. Tolerable roadside Inn. Arhver, Spring, 128. AltMANNSFELL, 115, 124. Armuli, 129. Arnafjord, 96. ArNARVATNSHEI<5i, 110, 123. Arnarfells Jokull, 130. A unis, 15, 16. Arreskov, 46. Arre So, Lake, 83. Auukiel, 30. As, 125. Asar, 130. Asbtrgi, 125. Ascheberg, 6. Askja, 126, 122, 127, 130, Asminder6i>, 79. ASSENS, 43. H. Phonix, R., L., A., 2 kr. 35 o., B. 50 o., D. 2 kr. ]>il. in 2i Ins. to Aanip. Steamer on Sat. in 3 hrs. to Faaborg; daily except Tues. and Thnrs. in 2i hrs. to Haderslev. Asserbo, Castle, 84, Asserbo Overdrev, The, 83. AuSkula, 123. Audolfssta<5ip,, 123. Augsburg, 65. AUGITSTENBURG, 31. Curhaus II., pension from 6 marks; Franck’s Hotel. Lodgings easily obtained. Steamer thrice daily in an hour to Sonderburg. AUNING, 34. Village Inn. Aunsbjzerg, 35. Au.-SENALSTer, 3. E, Baalhoi, 25. Baa ring Skov, 43, Baostue, The, 78, BiEGISA, 122. B^er, 129, BiEKKELTJNB, 36. Hotel, with good Restau¬ rant and Baths. Ballenb IIavn, 85. BALLERUP, 82. Inn. Omn. to Jonstrup, 25 o. BANDHOLM, 90. [4J. Good little Inn. Steamer to Fejo and Femd, 2f kr. there and back. Bangsbo Skov, 24, Barrit, 20. Barritskov, 20. Basn.es, 88, BEDSTED. 39. Small Inn. Dil. to Vester- vig, 1 kr. Beistrup, 40. Bellevue, 76. Belt , Great, 17, 42, 45, 48, [ 4 ]- Belt, Little , 5, 17, 18, 42, 43, 45. 46. [4]. Benzon, 35. Berufjord, 130. Bernstorff, 75, 77. Bessastam Copen¬ hagen (hours frequently changed). To Bonne daily at 7 p.m. in 9 hrs., or by Ystad (in Sweden), daily, except Thurs., in 11 hrs. Fare 8} kr., or 6i kr. each for a family party. Return (6 weeks) 13 kr. To Nexd in 15 hrs., thrice a week in summer, touching at (9 hrs.) Hasle, (10i hrs.) Allinge, (lli hrs.) Gudhjem, and (13 hrs.) Svanike; same charges. Borre, 86. Borreby, 88. Borup So, 31, 32. BORTJP, 22. 50. Small inn. Borup So, 50. Boserup, 53. INDEX AND DIRECTORY BOVBJIERG, 37. Small Inn. R. 1 kr., D. 1 kr., cold supper, 1 kr. BRABAND, 21, Inn. Brje<$ katunga Farm, 117, BraLIETROLLF,BORG, 46. BRAMMINGE, 5, 28, 38. Small Inn. Bramnles Vig, 84, Bratskov, 40, 41. Bras So, 31, Bred, 43. Brkbebro, 27, Bregentvkd, 85. BREGNINGE, 17* 46, 47. Small country Inn, on the high road, i m. W. of the Church. Breit<5abolsta s H., R., L. , A., 3 marks; B. 1 mark; I). 2f marks; cold supper at 7.30, 1 f mark. H. Stadt Hamburg, also near the Stat., good. H. Centred, 200 yds. from the Stat. Tramway through the town. The Rlv. to Kiel has a separate terminus Stat., 5 min. walk from the main line. Steamer 12 times a day to Gliicksburg. Flensburg Fjord, 16, 29. Fnjoska, II., 124, Fodby, 88. Four, 29. Forth, Firth of, 113. F0RTTTNEN, 75. Restaurant. Fossedal, 41. Fousing So, 22. Fraugde, 44. FREDENSB0RG, 79, 76, 81, [4]. ■/ernbane IT., at the Stat., D. 2 kr. Inn at the Castle. Carriages at a fixed tariff. Dil. to Esrom, 90 kr. Boat from the Skipperhus to Nbd- debo, l kr. Fishing boat on the lake, 70 6 . the first hour, 35 d. for each additional hour. FREBERICIA, 18, 19, 2, 5, 33. 42, [42. Hotels: ^Victoria, R., L., A., 2 f to 3f kr., B. 40 b., D. at 12.30, 2 kr., cold sup¬ per at 7, If kr. Jsernbane IT., at the Stat. H. Kron - grinds FYederiJc, in the town. *Buffet at the Stat., table d’hote, 2 kr. British Vice-Consulate : opposite the H. K roriprimls Frederik. Frederiksberg, 72, 53, 55, 57, 82. Frederiksborg, 77, 36, 52, 65, 76. 81, 84, 85, [42- FREDERIKSDAL, 75, 77, 82. Inn, tolerable. Carriages for excursions. Baths in the lake. Frederiksgave, 43. FREDERIKSHAVN, 24, 25, 35. [42. Hotels : *11. Hoffmann, R. 2 kr., B. 70 b., 1). 2 kr., cold supper, 11 kr. Eng¬ lish and German spoken. Omn. to Stat. or steamer, 35 d. II. Dania at the har¬ bour, similar charges. Dil. to Saeby, If kr. Car¬ riage, 15 kr. Steamer daily in 6 hrs. to Gdteborg' (8 kr.); in 2 hrs. to Laeso (2 kr.). Good Sea-bathing. Frederikshoi, 32. Fkedeiuksstad, 16 „ 47. FREDERIKSSUND, 76, 82, 83, [42. H. Isefjord, R. If to 2 kr., D. 2 kr., cold supper, If kr. Carriages &t, Frolund’s. Dil. to Fiederiksva?rk, 14 - kr.; to Jiegerspris, 50 o. FREDERIXSVJERK. 76. 83. Inn, unpretending. Car¬ riages at Niels Olsen’s, to Tidsvilde and back, 6 kr.; two horses, 10 kr. Dil. to Hillerdd and Frederikssund. Steamer to Frederikssund on Tues., Thurs. and Sat. at 10 . 30 , If kr.; to Nykjbbing on the same days, 2 kr. Friedrichsgrt, 7. Friedrichsstadt, 27. Frihavn, 55. Frthedsstotte, The, 55. Frijsenbo-rg, 21. Frisenwold, 22. Frisian Islands, 27, 28, 38. Erode, Tumulus of, 83. Frobjhjrg Bavenhoi, 43. Frubbj.erg, The, 79. FRUENS BQGE, 44. 46. Restaurant. Music from 6 to 7.30 P.M. Frybenhal, 84. Fuglekojer, 38. Fur, Island, 41. Pure So Lake, 75, 7’7, 82. Fyen, 64, 2,18, 42, 43 [4], [6]. Fynshoved, 45» Gaard-bogaard, 25. Gallehus, 63. Galtalhjkr Farm, IIS. Gamleborg, 92, 94, Gammer Kstrue, 34. Gar (Sr, 110,125. INDEX AND DIRECTORY 139 Gaupsdalr, 129. Oauno, 86. Gauldond, 130. GeirastaSir, 130. Geitafgss, 124. Geitland’s Jokijll, 123, 124. Geldingatjorn , Lake , 115. Geysirs, The, 116. GILLELEJE, 79, 81. Good Inn, with Baths in the lake, carriage to Graj- sted, 3 kr,; two horses, 4 kr. Gisselfeld, 85, 87. Gjedser, 10, 89. Gjellerdp, 32. Gjentofte, 75, 77. Gjol, 40. Gjqrslev, 87. Gl^esboiig, 35. Glamu Jokull, 129. Glqrup, 46, 42, 45. GLUCKSBURG. 16, 29. Hotels : *Strand Hotel, near the Pier, pension from 8 marks. H. Bellevue, pen¬ sion from 7 marks. Sea-Bath, 40 pf. Steamer : 12 times a day to Fiensburg. GLUCKSTADT, 3, 5, 26. Bahnhof’s Hotel. GLYNGQRE, 36. Inn. GoSSafqs, 109, 124. Goteborg, 25, £44. GRAASTEN, 17. Bade Hotel. Grange, 90. GRISTED, 79, 81. Inn. GRAMRODE, 20, Small Inn. Grandon, 113, 122. Gkavenstein, 30. Greenland, [7]. Greis, 19. GREISDAL, 19. Hotel, 3 m. from Yeile. GRENAA, 35, 32, 33. H. Uagmar. Carriage to Katholm, 4 kr.; to Benzon, 6 kr. Dil in If hr. to Glais- borg. Steamer to Copen¬ hagen on Fri. at 10.15 in Q hrs., fare 8 kr. GRIBSO, 79. Restaurant, good. Gribskov, The, 79. Grimmansfell, 115, Grimstaskja:r, 19. Hardrnberg, 90. Harreskov, 32. HASLE, 92, 91. Very small country Inn, cheap and tolerable. Car¬ riages from Jakobsen. To the Hammer, 8 kr.; to Ronne, 5 kr.; to Jons Kapel, 4 kr.; to Hel'ligdom or the Jom- frubjaerg, 8 kr.; for a three days’ drive, 10 kr. a day, and 1 kr. to the driver. Dil. to (7 m.) Ronne, 90 o.; tu (8 m.) Allinge, 1£ kr. HASLEV, 85. Small Inn. Dil. to Rbn- nede, 1 kr. Carriages for¬ th e round of parks, 8 kr. HATTENJES, 32. Restaurant. Steamer to Silkeborg and Laven. Haukadalp., 117, 119, 130. Haukagil, 123. Hauksvokdugja, 121. Havelse, 83. Haverslev, 40. Havreholm, 76. Havno, 22. HEE, 35. 37. Small Inn. HEIDE, 27. II. Buvmeister. Hekla, 118, 108, 109, 110, 116, 119, 126, 130. Helgafell, 129. Helgena;&, 33. HELIGOLAND, 2. Hotels : Stadt London ; Cornier saiiemshaus. Steamer to Crrxbaven, 6 marks; to Hamburg, 12 marks. HELLEBJEK. 81, 76. Bade Hotel. Fixed tariff for carriages. Dil. to Hel- singor, 60 kr. Hellerup, 74, 77. HELLIGDOM. 93. H. Helligdomsgaarden, tolerable and reasonable; Pens. 4 kr. Omn. to the Jomfrnbjicrg, 1 kr. ; to Ronne, l£ kr. Small boat to the Steamer, 1 kr. Hellishei<5t, 119, Helliskar<5, 119. Helsan, Spring, 82. HELSINGBORG, 76, 80, 82, [ 53 . Hotels : Angleterre, on the quay, between the land¬ ing-place and the Rly. Stat., R., L., A., 2 to 4 kr.; B. 75 b., D. 2f kr. Mollberg, in the Torv, a good German Inn, with similar charges. Continental , on the quay. INDEX AND DIRECTORY 141 Carriages at the first two hotels. To Sophiero and lvulla Gunnarstorp and back, 6 kr. ; two horses, 10 kr. Steamer to Helsingor, 40 d.; deck, 25 o. British Vice-Consulate : 16 N. Storgadan. Bookseller : Killberg. HELSINGOR, 79, 65, 74, 76, 77, 80, 81, 82, [4], [5], Hotels : Jernbane Hotel, on the quay, near the Stat., tolerable. ” H. oresund, in the town (see Marienlyst). II. du Nord. Steamer to Helsingborg five times a day, 50 o.; 2nd class, 25 o. To Copenhagen five times, li kr.; return tick t, 2f kr. Dil. to Hcllebfek, 60 o.; to Hornbrek, 1 kr. Fixed tariff for carriages at Jen¬ sen’s in the Stengade. HeNGILL, 116. Heroesvotn, R., 109, 123. Hei:<5ubkeid, 108, 131. Herlufsholm, 85, 88. HERNING, 32, 37. Hotels : H. Hyde; H. Herning. Carriage to Harreskov and back, 6 to 10 kr. Dil. in 8 hrs. to Veile (5i kr.); to Eingkjobing (3| kr.); to Holstebro in 3f hrs. (3 kr.). Herthadalshus, 84. HESSELAGER, 45. Country Inn. Hesselagergaard, 46. Hestehavn, 47. Hestr, 128. HILLEROD, 77, 76, 79. Hotels: *11. Leidersdorf, opposite the entrain e to the Castle, a mile from the Stat.; Omn. 25 o. R. 2 kr., B. 75 o., D. 3 kr. II. Kronprinsen, in the market-place ; H. Kjobenhavn. Restaurant at the Stat., and at *Slots- pavillon. Carriage at the Hotel Leidersdorff. Hillerodsholm, 85. HIKMELBJiERG, 32. Tolerable little Inn. HlMMELBJiERGET, 31. Hindeholm, 45. I Hindsgavl, 43. HINNERUP, 21. Country Inn. Carriage to Frijsenborg, 6 kr. Dil. to (8 m.) Hammel, passing by Frijsenborg, in li hr. (1 kr.). Hirsholmene, 25. Hjallerup, 23. Hjar. 2 kr. Omn. 35 o. II. Mailer, with a pretty garden, similar charges. Steamer twice a week to Copenhagen in 17 hrs.; fare, Hi kr. Daily to Hadsund in 3 hrs.; fare, li kr. Hof, 130. Hofsj okull, 109. Hofteigr, 127. Hogholt, 32. Hoglldgaard, 32. Hohoj, 22. Hoibygaard, 90. Hole Moen, 86, 87. Hoierup, Church, 9. Hoiris, 37. Holar, Island, 114, 123. H0LB.EK, 22, 34, 83, 84. H. Isefjord, in a large garden. R. 2 kr., B. 50 o., 1). 2 kr. Carriage to I >rage- rup Skov and back, 5 kr. ; two horses, 8 kr. Dil. to Nykjobing and Ringsted. Ferry across the fjord, 25 o. Holckenhavn, 45, 46. Holeby, 90. IIollingstedt, 15. HOLSTEBRO, 32, 37. II. Schaumburg, good and reasonable. Omn. 35 d. Dil. S.W. to Herning. HOLSTER, 38. Tolerable Inn. Holstein, [3], [10], [13], [14], [15], 28. Holsteinborg, 88. Holstenhus, 46. Holtar, 130. HOLTE, 77. H. Nyholte, 10 min. E. of the Stat., good and reason¬ able ; carriages at a fixed tariff. Omn. to Hdrsholm, 50 o. Holtenau, 6, 13. Hopj okull, 130. Horgct, R., 112. Horgadalk, 122. Horne, Church, 46. HORNBiEK, 76, 81. Inn, with good Restaurant, R. li kr., D. 2 kr. Pens. Friis, comfortable and mo¬ derate. Carriages at a fixed tariff. Dil. to Hellebaik and Helsingor. HORNSLET, 33. Country Inn. Hornsyld, 20. HORSENS, 20, 32. II. Jorgensen, R., L., A., 2i kr., B. 75 o., D. 2f kr II. Skandinavien. Horserod, 81. HORSHOLM, 76, 77, 75. Hotel. Horup Hav, 17, 31. Hotels, [5]. HOU, 21. Small Inn, and Bathing Establishment. HOYER, 27, 28, 29. II. Stadt Tondern. Steamer to Sjdt twice a day in If hr. Fare, 3 mark3 80 pf. Hrafnagja, 115, 116. Hrafntinnuhryggr, 126, Hringvershvilft, 125. Hruni, 117, 110, 118, 130. HUMLEBiEK, 77. 79, 82. Inn, tolerable; pension, 3 to 4 kr. Carriage to Kirst- gaard, 2 kr,, two horses, 3 kr. Huge Berg, 31. HXTMLTJIVi:, 38. Small Inn. Dil. to Lem- vig, If kr. 142 INDEX AND DIRECTORY, Hune, 25. Hune Kirke, 25. Hunseby, 90. Hun’s Grave, 9. HTJRTJP, 38. Small Inn. Dil. to Ny- kjobing, 2i kr.; to Vester- vig, 60 o. Husavik, 96, 110, 122, 124, 125, 130, 131. HTJSUM, 16, 27, 28, 29, 65. Hotels : H. Thomas; H. Stadt Hamburg. Steamer in 3£ hrs. to Wyk. Fare, 7 marks. Huttener Berge, 13. HvalfjorSr, 128. HvaljoR<5r, 128. HVALSO, 84. Inn. Carriage to Skjold- nsesholm and back (or on to Borup), 6 kr.; two horses, 11 kr. Hvamm, 123. HvammsheIcSi, 110. Hvedholm, 46. H veen, Island, 76. Hveravellir, 130, 131. Hverfisfljot, 108. HVIDDING (Dan. Yedsted), 27. Small Inn. Hverfjall, 126. Hvidkilde, 46. Hvitd, R., 109, 117, 128. Hvitdrvatn, Lake, 117. Hylke, 20. I. ICELAND, 95-131, [7], [16]. Accommodation in, 101; Agriculture, 107; Books on, 101; Church in, 106 ; Climate, 97; Clothing, 98; Communication, 96 ; Cost of travelling in, 100 ; Cus¬ tom House in, 96 ; Educa¬ tion in, 106 ; Exploration in, 111 ; Fisheries of, 107 ; Fishing in, 110 ; Geology of, 108, 111 ; Guides, 97 ; His¬ tory of, 103 ; Industries in, 107 ; Language and Litera¬ ture of, 104 ; JVlaps of, 102 ; Measures of, 95 ; Money of, 95 ; Pa-sports, 96 ; Ponies in, 97 ; Population of, 106 ; Shooting in, 110; Statistic, of, 105 ; Steamers to, 96 ; Tours in, 111 ; Trade of, 107 ; Travelling in, 97 ; W hen to visit, 97 ; Weights, 95. Gov.-General: Mr. Mag¬ nus Stephensen. Idstedt, 16, [14], IKAST, 32. Country Inn. Dil. to Horsms, 31- kr. Ingjaldsholl, 128. Ingolfsfjall, 119. Inns, [5]. Isafjor'Sr, 129, 130, 96. Isholl, 130. Issefjord, 50, 83, 84. ITZEIIOE, 6, 27. H. Helmund; II. Diih- ring. J. Jjegersbakke, 79. JiEGERSBORG, 75. Hotel. JHJGERSPRIS, 76, 82, [4], Hotel at the Castle, R. 1 to 2 kr., luncheon l£ kr., cold supper 14 kr. Carriage for half a day’s excursb n, 6 kr. Adm. to the Castle, 1 to 5 persons, 50 b.; 6 to 10 persons, 1 kr. JiELLING, 19. Jammerbugt, 41. JEBJiERG, 36. Inn. Dil. in 1£ hr. to Grinderslev. Jelling e, 64. JERSLEV, 24. Gnod country Inn. Jbkulsd a Fjollum , II., 109. 125. JOMFRTJBJiERG, 91, 92. II. Jovifrubjgerget, with fine view from its tower, R. H to 2 kr., B. 50 b., D. at any hour, 2 kr. Pens, for five days, 4 kr. Omn. to Ronne or Helligdom, 1 kr. Donkeys, li kr. an hour. Guides to the bpst points of view, 50 o. to 1 kr. J6nnskar<5, 127. Jons Karel, 92. Jonstrup, 82. Jorofald, The, 39. Jubeck, 16, 27. JUELLINGE, 90. JUELSMINDE, 20. Small Inn. Jul So, 32. Jutland, 19, 63, 64, 65, 83, [4], [8], [9], [10]. JYDERJJP, 84. II. Skarridso, R. 1 i kr., Pens. 3 to 4 kr. Carriage to Veirhoi, 6 kr.; two horses, 8 kr. Jydske Aas, 24, 25. K. Kaldtdalr, 124. Kalfatjorn, 121. 122. Kalfafell, 130. Kalfholt, 118. Kalfstindar, 116. INDEX AND DIRECTORY, 143 Kallehave, 86. KALLTJNBBORG, 85, [4], Hotels : H. Kallundborg, close to the Harbour and Stat, R. H to 2 kr., B. 70 o., I>. 2 kr. II. Postgaarden, in the middle of the town, similar charges; Omn. 35 o. Carriages at Larsen’s, 170 Skibrogade, near the Harbour. Dil. to Slagelse, 2t kr. Kalmanstunga, 110, 123,124. Kalo Bavnehoj, The, 33. Kalo Castle, 33, 57. Kalo Yig, The, 33. Kalsbol, 20. Kandestederne, 26. Kafpeln, 16, 17. Kappendeup, 45. Karnan Tower, 82. KARREBiEKSMINDE, 86. Village Inn, cheap and tolerable. Karup Kirke, 24. Katholm, 35. Katla Volcano, 130. Kattegat, The, 23, 24, 26, 40, 83. Keilir, 122, KIBiEK, 32. Tim, unpretending. KicSagil, 130. KIEL, 6, 2, 5, 7, 16, 63, [4]. Hotels : *Germania, op¬ posite the Stat., large and well-kept; R., L., A., 3 to 4 marks, B. 1 mark, D. at one o’clock, 3 marks. Kron- prinz, also good; similar charges. Stadt Kopenh agen, Stadt Hamburg, and II. zur Bbrse, good commercial Inns. (See Dusternbrook and WlLHELMINENHOHE.) Cabs : Tarid as at Ham¬ burg The course, generally 75 pf.; the hour, l| mark. Tramway along the main streets and to Dusternbrook. Boats : 14 mark the hour. Ferry across the Harbour to Wilhelminenhohe, 10 pf. Steamers : From the Stat. to V’ilhelminenbdhe, 5 pf.; to Ellerbek, 10 pf.; to Neu- muhlen, 15 pf. ; to Althei- kendorf aid Molienort, 25 pf.; all these on the E. bank. Along the W. shore to the Baths, 15 pf.; Belle¬ vue, 20 pf.; Friedrichsort, 30 pf. ; kal'oe, 35 pf. Sea-Baths a mile N. of the Stat., with good Restau¬ rant. Kiel, bay of, 13. Kielfjord, 6. Kildeporthus, 79. Kiekjubol, 129. Kirkjuvogr, 121. Kistufell, 130. Kjalvegr, 130. KJH5RLIGHEDSSTILAKER, 55. Kjeldbvmagle, 86. KjELKJiER, 19. KJELLERTJP, 35. Small Inn. Dil. to Rod- kjamsbro and Silkeborg. KJERTEMINDE, 45. Tornde’s Hotel. Dil. in 24 Ins. to (9 in.) Martofte, 75 o. Steamer to Copen¬ hagen and Nyburg. KJOGE, 85, 87, [4]. Hotels : II. Prinsen , in the market-place, reason¬ able. Jernbane H., at the Star., unpretending. Carriages at the II. Prin¬ sen, 6kr. a day; two horses, 10 kr. Kjogebugt, 85. KLAMPENBORG, 75, 55, 74, 76, 77, [4]. Hotels : Rade Hotel, large and good; R., L., A., 2 to 34 kr., B. 6o o., D. at five o’clock, 3 kr. Excellent Restaurant. H. Bellevue, prices rather lower. Fixed tariff for carriages at the Hotels. Klausholm, 22, 34. Kleifar, 129. Kleifarvatn, Lake, 120. Klippinge, 87. KLITMOLLER, 39. Bade Hotel; pension with baths, 3 kr. Dil. to Thisted, 75 b. Klitter, The, 37. Knivholt, 25. KNOOP.,7. Good Inn on the Canal. Knud, Lake, 31. Knuthenborg, 90. Kobbkrmolleskoven, 30. Ivoiiberv^ket, 19. Kokkedal, 40, 41. KOLDBY HAVN, 85. inn. Omn. to Tranebjaerg and Ballens Havn. KOLDING, 5, 18, 43, [4], Hotels : H. Holding, R., L., A., 24 to 34 kr., B/75 o., D. at oue o’clock, 2 kr., supper at 7, 14 kr. II. Thomsen; II. Svens son. Omnibus : 35 o. Cab : 40 o. the course. Carriages for excursions at the Hotel, To Skam- lingsbanken, 10 kr. Koldingfjoed, 18. Koldinghus, 18. KOLIND, 34. Country Inn. Kolindsund, 34. KollabuSir, 129. KolvicS vrholl, 119. Komigjenkro, 44. Kongestol, 31. Kongsbjerget, 87. Kongshoi, 46. Kongshoi Hammerv^erk, 46. KORINTH. 46. Good little Inn. Carriages on hire. KORSOR, 48, 7, 2, 16, 17, 19, 45, 47, 84, 85, [4]. Hotels: II. Korsdr, R., L., A., 14 to 2 kr., I). 2 kr. II. Stbrebelt, at the Stat., charges a little higher. Steam Ferry to Nyborg (good Restaurant on board) four times a day. Steamer daily except Sun. in 11 hrs. to Flensburg (9 kr.); daily in 64 hrs. to Kiel. KORSOR SKOV. 49. Good Restaurant. Koster, 86. Keafla, 110, 126. Kragehul, 64. Kralca, R., 126. KrIsuvIk, 120, 97, 110, 119, 122 . Keogerup, 79, 82. Kroksfjord, 129. Keonboeg, 65, 76, 80, 81, 82. Kriickaue, R., 5. Kulla Gunnarstorp, 82. Kuli.en Headland, 81. Kueburg, 15. Kuegrav, 15. 144 INDEX ANt) DIRECTORY, Kvaerndrup, 46. KVISTGAARD, 79. Carriage to Humleba?k, 2 kr.; two horses, 3 kr. L. 1AR0E, 7. H. Stoltenberg. Lasso, 24, 25. LiESTEN Church, 22. Lagarfjot, R., 110. RANDS KRONA, 76. Langanaes, Cape, 122. LANGAA, 21, 35. Rly. Restaurant, tolera- able. Rangelands Belt, 90. Rangeland Island, 17, 47. Langdalen, valley, 41. Langeso, 44. Rangjokull, 109, 130. Ranguage, [2]. Raugafjall, 116. LaUGARDAGLIE, 118, 119. Laugardalr, 116. IjAUGARVATN, 116. LATJRBERG, 21, Inn. Carriage to Frijsen- borg, 6 to 8 kr. RAVEN, 31. Country Inn. Laxa, R., 115, 118, 124, 130. Raxamxri, 124, 125. LEIRE, 84. Inn. Carriage to the Iler- thadal, 2 kr.; including the Jsettestue, 4 kr. Reiehnckr, 126. Leiruvogsvatn, Lake, 115. Reith, 96, 113, 129. LEMVIG, 37, 38. Hotels : U- Jesjoersen, good and moderate ; II- Warmdahl. Dil. E. in 3 hrs. to Humlum (li kr.). Steamer to Thisted and other places on the Rim- fjord. Carriage to Bovbjaerg, re¬ gaining the Rly. at Ramme Stat., 10 to 12 kr. Rerup, 41. Rethraborg, 84. Likkista, 129. Lilleaa, Stream, 21. Rilleborg, 91, 92. LILLEROD. 77. Country Inn. Rimfjord, 23, 38, 39, 40, 41. Rtndenborg, 23. Lindholm, 16, 27. Lisb-ierg, 22, 65. LISELUND, 86. Runcheon at the farm house. Riv Bredmng, 41. Ljdsavatn, 124, 127. Rjosavatns Skard, 124. Loberg, The, 115. LOGTEN, 33. Small Inn. Dil. to Ronde, 90 o.; to Ebeltoft, 2 kr. 70 o. LOGSTOR, 40, 41. II. du Nord. Dil. to Aalborg through Nibe in 6 hrs., 5 kr.; to Hobro in 71 lirs., 4| kr. Steamer to Aalboig, and many other places on the Rimfjord. LogstoR Bredning, 41. I.ohalshave, 47. Rokeshoi, 75. LOKKEN, 25. Inn, very primitive. R. 50 o. to 2 kr., B. 50 o., D. 2 kr., cold supper, li kr. Dil. to Hjorring, U kr. Rolland, 90, 47, 89, [4], [6]. Romma Bugt, 11. Lonborg Aa, R., 37. LONDON TO ST. PETERS¬ BURG. — Wilson Line of Steamers, once a week during the season. Bailey' and LeethAm Line, from Hull and from London every Sat. All these touch at Copenhagen. From New¬ castle to Esbjerg, weekly. L0NSTRUP, 25. II. Linnemann. Rorslev, 37. Louisehoi, 32. Louisenlund, 15, 93. Lovenborg, 84. Lovenholm, 34. LtJBECK, 7, 2, 87. Hotels : SI adz Hamburg, R. , L., A., from 'Si marks, B. 1 mark; II. Diiffcke, with similar charges ; H. du Sord, somewhat cheaper; all good. II. Broclcmiiller, good food, commercial. Restaurants : Raths- Weinkeller, excellent for luncheon, and well worth a visit. Fredtnhagen’s Keller, also good. Liibeck is cele¬ brated for its Marzipan, a kind of macaroon, which may be had at Niedereggtr’s, 89 Breite Strasse, and else¬ where. Cabs : 60 pf. the course ; luggage, 30 pf. Tramway from the N. suburb of St. Gertrud to the S. suburb of St. Jiirgen, passing through the town. Post and Telegraph Office: opposite the Rath- haus. Steamers on the Trave to the popular resort of Schwartau, 4 m. N., on the Rly. to Eutin. Theatres : Stadt Theater, open only in winter; Tivoli and Wilhelm’s Theater, only in summer. Luggage, [6]. Lugumkloster, 27. Lund, 51, 52. Lundabrekka, 130. Lundabrekka Church, 127. LUNDBY, 86. Inn. Dil. in 1£ hr. to Praisto, 90 d. Carriage, 5 kr.; there and back, 6 kr. LUNDEBORG, 46. Jnn. Steamer to Korsov, Nyborg, Svendborg, and Copenhagen. LUNDERSKOV, 5, 18, 38. Small Inn. Lykkesholm, 46. LYNGBY, 34, 74, 75, 76, 77, 82. Hotels : H. Rustenhorg, at the Stat., Yvith Restaurant. INDEX AND DIRECTORY 145 H. Lyngby, D. 2 to 21 kr. Rest. Lottenborg. Carriages for excursions at a fixed charge. Lyngby So, 77. L YNGD ALSHER <51, 116. Lyngvig, 37. Lyo, Island, 46. Lysiioi, The, 36. Lysned, 21. M MaaloV, 77, 82. MAARSLET, 21. Small Inn. Maarum, 79. Magelund, 46. Maglehoi, 83. MAGLEVANDSFALD, 87. Luncheon at the Pavilion. MALMO, 11, 10, [5]. Hotels : Kramer's, in the Stortorg, with a good Restau¬ rant. R. from 1 to 4 kr.; D. at 4.30, 2 $ kr.; supper at 7.30, II kr. II. Horn, at the Stat., similar charges. Both have Cafes, electric light, and billiard rooms. Cafes : Baude, . Hamn- gatan; Brown, Sodergatan. MARIAGER. 22. II. Jensen. Omn. to Hobro. Steamer to Hobro, Halsund, and Copenhagen. Mariagerfjoed, 22. MARIANELTJND, 79, 81. Inn. Carriages for ex¬ cursions. MARIBO, 90. [4], Country Inn, with a few tolerable rooms and good food. R. 2 kr., B. 75 o., D. 2 kr., cold supper, If kr. Omn. 25 o'. Good horses and carriages from Christensen, in the Torvegade, or at the Inn. To Sbholt, Engestofte, and back, 5 or 6 kr.; to Kuuthenborg, 4 or 5 kr. Boats on the Fjord. MARIENLYST, 80. Bade - Hotel, in a large garden on the shore, with separate Restaurant, Cafe, and Casino. Pens. 4f kr. Mariested Convent, 24. Marne, 27. Marselisborg, 21. Maeslev, 44. MARSTAL, 47. Hotels : H. rErd; H. Dan¬ mark. Omn. to /Erbskjbbing in If hr., 65 o. Steamer thrice daily in 2f hrs. to Svendborg, touch¬ ing at Rudkjbbing, 2 kr. Martofte, 45. Masnedo, 10, 89. MASNEDSTJND, 10, 86, 89, [ 4 ]. Buffet at the Stat. Steamer to Copenhagen in 6f hrs., 5 kr.; to Stege in 2 hrs., 2 kr. ; to Feio twice weekly; to Bogo and back, every Thurs. Measures, [1]. Meilsgaard, 35. Meldoef, 27. Mellerup, 22. Ml Joint 2910 v | •train f&hviift ^yskaga.v i&L & Mm f ri 0 p CLSt a^ r pey kir i Nr ' Uccahvef' # yf* Spr Wl tydjJ'Ongciy gt>\ 5 tiffjnrmnoirfbs/a 1 ' ” . •>uiuhistaints' p . K> oJ'\xiS : J 11 Ke-wnihiid J/ieu- Svinsylob'. pokull <2332 "< Boiskuldsta Si\ Sau.t . i.s-ar,777X1 0ran.'>tc oir I) t *sjan|vi| W'ymjccr fe • >• w ^ : fiia i tf. hh ’ijjoll . wap* 1 rux i Skutui yGoiitp Mildibter wirnyr. a^JUxT&dxiLr i aad axb oil W/ Pxestlm lrtn ° y Beer \ Boxdevn ° Lc tJ^0h ZaukagiZ MtUrndgi/i UTLarvottv f) StaJr' K • . MeLar o ^^arhalt 1 Holtcivdr6 ; RiAcigi 1 111' auuvr —% Astejjp! NHTJg SkialiTlixeid. *. .**? I&dtlaayngj*;%?' LLstul'll ( j'i , / e\^3^9a V L$k&Ssbil f'->£ ® y mcja Bvammr , ’■drvaleU/iais "oyrik's JokuJl - 1 opLccauc ’Biidir Jokull Hof fdkuH \Reykhdlt Rverldj jj indell 'pBvunnc, Oiyrru^foss Jjfej r . °SyarUujil rydSu ju/veUn ^ A-i BrseAnat >, Thing valhif/ nLaJce *})„ Vt/Oi.1 jyisiill Eousir C.A*r<^' B reih oi iyefls hi sTJyotn Tafedstadr -Rolstobdalcnv KEYRJAVI &e<9&(Letjz& J >/rttiruyellu r XiZ - J T I ■'<’ -UOJ^Opi CBleefirrvcctn K3U.V Westono** "Myi'daiSi.Jdkul 1 ). &5S* "v^JI ffddju Triglisfh Miles I Orkney it £r v 6 ^ stKiki-, gdy <~jyy BocJeriU’ r '/?V SCOTJA^D ,^7 ^ (rengraphieoi Allies London. John Murray, Alberruirie Street i' < Murray’s Handbook » ADVERTISER, 1900 - 1901 , CONTAINING USEFUL INFORMATION FOR TRAVELLERS, RAILWAY AND STEAMBOAT COMPANIES, HO TELS, AND ‘ MISCELLANEOUS ADVERTISEMENTS. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, GOMPAGNIEdesMESSAGERIES maritimes FRENCH POSTAL STEAMERS. DEPARTURES FROM MARSEILLES. MAIN LINES. A B BRANCH LINES. MAIN LINE. Connecting at Colombo with the China Main Line A. MAIN LINES. BRANCH LINES. INDIA. CHINA. JAPAN. Bombay . Direct Port Said, Suez, Aden, Bombay, 1 Colombo, Singapore, Saigon, Hong I Kong, Shanghai, Nagasaki, Kobe, | Yokohama. J ' Port Said, Suez, Djibouti, Colombo, Singapore, Saigon, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Nagasaki, Kobe, Yoko¬ hama ... ... ... ... ... Colombo to Pondicherry, Madras, Calcutta ... ... ... ... Singapore to Batavia. Singapore to Samarang . Saigon to Tonquin Ports Saigon to Singapore. AUSTRALIA & NEWCALEDONIA. Port Said, Suez, Colombo, King George’s Sound, Adelaide, Mel¬ bourne, Sydney, Noumea. INDIAN OCEAN LINES. ' Port Said, Suez, Djibouti, Zanzibar, Mutsamudu or Moroni, Mayotte, Majunga, Nossi-Be, Diego-Suarez, \ Tamatave, Reunion, Mauritius ... Port Said, Suez, Djibouti, Aden, Diego- Suarez, Sainte-Marie, Tamatave, Reunion, Mauritius. Mo- Every 28 days Every 28 days Every 28 days Every 28 days Every Mail Every 28 days Every Week Every Mail Every 28 days 10 th of each Month 25 th of each Month Connecting with mail of the 10 th of each month. Connecting with mail of the 25th of each Month /Zanzibar to Dar-es-Salam, Ibo, Mo-| zambique, Inhambane. j Diego-Suarez to Nossi-Be, Analalave, Majunga, Maintirano, Morundava, Ambohibe, and Tulear. Diego-Suarez to Mozambique, Beira, Lourenqo-Marques, and Natal MEDITERRANEAN.— Weekly departures for Alexandria, Port Said, Beyrout, Syrian Ports, Piraeus, Smyrna, Constantinople, Black Sea (Odessa, Novorossisk, Batoum, &c.). Fortnightly for Jaffa, Salonica, Syra, Patras, Suda Bay, and Naples. DEPARTURES FROM BORDEAUX. I For Corunna, Lisbon, Dakar, Rio ) ( Janeiro, Montevideo & Buenos Ayres / For Vigo, Lisbon, Dakar, Pernam¬ buco, Bahia, Rio Janeiro, Monte¬ video and Buenos Ayres. BRAZIL and RIYER PLATE. Every 28 days Every 28 days Offices.—Paris: I, Rue Vignon ; Marseilles: 16, Rue Cannebiere ; Bordeaux: 20, Allees d’Orleans ; London : 97, Cannon Street, E.C. } 900 . MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 3 AJACCIO (CORSICA). The CYRNOS PALACE HOTEL F IRST-CLASS ENGLISH FAMILY HOTEL. Most Elevated and Sheltered Position. In full view of the Gulf aud surrounding Mountains. Large Orange Garden. Pension terms from 10 Francs. E. eXNER, Proprietor. During Summer at Hotel Royal and de Saussure, Chamonix. ALGIERS. MUSTAPHA - SUPERIOR. HOTEL CONTINENTAL ET D'ORIENT. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, Full South, Splendid View. Four Acres of Garden, Tennis Court. English Billiard Table, Calorifdre, Excellent Drainage, Hydraulic Lift, Ascenseur. Omnibus on Arrival of Steamers. Printed Tariffs sent on Application. J. HILDENBRAND, Proprietor and Manager. ALGIERS. HOTEL DE LA REGENCE. First-class Hotel in every respect, only one facing full south, unrivalled situation. Family Hotel for long or short stay. Sanitary arrange¬ ments English. Hydraulic Lift. Swiss Manager—MONS. F. MARTY. Cook’s Coupons accepted. Luring the Season please telegraph for Rooms. AVRANCHES. GRAND HOTEL DE FRANCE. riHI E most frequented and the most comfort- 1 able. Good Cooking. Renowned Cellar. Omnibus at Station. Comfortable apartments for families. English Papers. Splendid Sculptures, Louis AVI. Carriages for Mont St. Michel. Cook's Tourists' Hotel. EMILE PINEAU, Proprietor. AMIENS. HOTEL DE FRANCE, D’ANGLETERRE, AND DE L’EUROPE. F IRST-CLASS HOTEL, close to the Cathedral, the Museum, and other Public Buildings. Haring been recently newly furnished, it offers great comfort. Families and SiDgle Gentlemen accommodated with convenient Suites of Apartments and Single Rooms. Omnibus at the Station. English spoken. AMSTERDAM. AMSTEL HOTEL THE LARGEST HOTEL IN THE TOWN. Patronized by the highest class of English Travellers STRONGLY RECOMMENDED TO FAMILIES. Every Modern Comfort, combined with Moderate Prices. AMSTERDAM. BRACK’S DOELEN HOTEL. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL WITH EVERY COMFORT. b 2 4 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, ANDERMATT. Climatic Summer Health Resort, St. Gotthard, 1,444 metres above sea, f of an hour distant from Goschenen (G.B.) Railway Station. Sehollenen (Furka—Wallis & Grimsel). Teufelsbrucke (Oberhalp—Coire). GRAND HOTEL AND PENSBON BELLEVUE. splendid park grounds. Fitted and furnished according to all modern requirements. 150 Rooms and Saloons with Balconies and Verandahs. Pleasant Health Resort. unTO DCCTASiO AUTO TftllDIOTE Favourite house for travellers and guests nU ! tIL nEo 1 nUKAri I d lUUflldlta with moderate requirements. Elegant Cafe. Munich and Warteck beers on draught. Glass gallery. Cheap prices. OMNIBUS and carriage at the Goschenen Station. Propr. GEBR. MULLER (from Hotel Furka). BO UTE: Goschenen | ANTWERP. HOTEL DE HOLLANDS, T HIS well-known and home-like Hotel is situated close to the Quay, the Cathedral, and Plantin Museum, and is two minutes’ walk from the “ Red Star” offices. It is highly recommended for its great comfort and Moderate Charges. Drawing Room, Sitting and Smoking Rooms. Table d’h6te from 5 till 7 at separate tables. Baths in the Hotel. jQS. STROOBANTS, Propr. ANTWERP. HOTEL ST. ANTOINE. PLACE VERTE, OPPOSITE THE CATHEDRAL. rpHIS excellent First-Class Hotel, which enjoys the well- -B- merited favour of Families and Tourists, has been Newly Furnished and Decorated. Great Comfort, Superior Apartments, and Moderate Charges. Elegant Sitting, Reading and Smoking Rooms; fine Salle a Manger, excellent Table d’Hote and choice Wines. English, American, and French Papers. BATHS IN THE HOTEL. ARLES-SUR-RHONE (France). GRAND HOTEL DU FORUM. F IRST-CLASS, the largest in the town. Full South. Entirely renewed and considerably enlarged. Bath Room. Saloons. Smoking Room. Antique Annexe, with a tower giving a splendid view of the country (Rhone and Camargue). Table d’Hote. Moderate charges. English spoken. Omnibus at the Station. Telephone. MICHEL, Proprietor. AVIGNON. GRAND HOTEL d’EUROPE. I7IRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. Has existed for more than a century. 100 Rooms I and Sitting Rooms. Situated full South. Entirely restored and managed again by the former Proprietor, since the 1st of March, 1893. Families will find there, as before, every cotnfort at moderate terms. English spoken. E. YILLE, Proprietress. Murray’s Handbook to Asia Minor, Transcaucasia, Persia, &c. AN ENTIRELY NEW WORK, WITH NUMEROUS MAPS. Edited by Major-General Sir CHAS. WILSON, K.C.B., With assistance from Sir H. Chermside ; Mr. D. G. Hogarth ; Professor W. Ramsay ; Colonel Everett, C.M.G. ; Colonel Harry Cooper ; Mr. Devey, and others. Crown 8vo. 18s. 1900. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 5 BADEN-BADEN. Best Position in Baden-Baden. Proprietor, Mr. FBANZ GROSHOLZ T'HIS is one of the finest-built and best-furnished First-Class Hotels, main front with Morning Sun, situated in the new Promenade opposite the new General Post Office, nearest the Kursaal and the famous Frederic Baths and Augusta Baths; it commands the most charming views and is reputed to be one of the best Hotels in Germany. Principally fre¬ quented by English and American Travellers. Highly recommended in every respect, very moderate charges. Table d’Hote at 1 and 6 o’clock. English and other Journals. Beautiful airy Dining-Rooms, Ladies’ Drawing-Room Reading & Smoking-Rooms. Pension in the early & latter part of the season’. Electric Light. Hydraulic Lift. Bath Rooms. Sanitary Arrangemen ts perfect. BADEN-BADEN First-Class Hotel, nearest Conversation House and Bathing Establish¬ ments. Large Park. tm- ■xs&i Recently- enlarged by 40 quiet and sunny rooms overlooking the Park, Central Steam Heating, Hydraulic Lifts, Electric Light throughout, Charges Strictly Moderate, Pension. A. ROSSLER, Proprietor . BADEN-BADEN. THE MOST BEAUTIFUL AND MOST FASHIONABLE RESORT IN EUROPE. BADEN-BADEN is unrivalled for its Summer Climate, deriving its special charm from its picturesque and salubrious situation among the lower hills of the Black Forest. Lovely walks and drives. International Races and Lawn Tennis. Good Fishing, Shooting, and various other Sports. Splendid Conversation House, with Concert, Ball, Reading; Restaurant, and Society Rooms. Excellent Orchestra. THE ESTABLISHMENT IS OPEN THE WHOLE YEAR. Hot Mineral Springs, specially efficacious for the Cure of Gout, Rheu • matism, and Disorders of the Stomach and Liver. NEW GRAND DUCAL BATHING ESTABLISHMENTS “THE FREDERIC BATHS” & “EMPRESS AUGUSTA BATHS.” Unique for its Perfection and Elegance. Mineral, Pine, Mud, and Medicinal Baths of every description. Perfect Sanitation. Magnificent Hotels and Villas. Excellent Educational Establishments. English Church. All information at the Bureau of the “ Cure Committee .” 6 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, BADEN-BADEN. HOTEL AND BAOHAOS ZAHRINCER HOF. ^THIS large FIRST-CLASS HOTEL is beautifully situated in the I midst of a large Park, near the Promenades, Terraces, &c. Mineral Baths, Lift; Sanitary Arrangements perfect; Pension; Moderate Prices. __ H. BAYER, WM, and E GROSHOLZ. BADEN-BADEN. HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE. TTIGHLY IiEPUTED ami well patronised First Class FAMILY HOTEL, combining every modern comfort with moderate charges, Beautiful situation in the most elegant part of Baden, at the entrance of the Lichtenthal Allee. facing Promenade, Theatre, and Conversation House. Lift. Baths. Large Garden, covered (estaurant Terrace. Electric Light. Open all the vear. Arrangements (Winter Pension). New Propiietor, All Ihll'illger, formerly Kurlaus, Kreuznaeh, and Mena House, Cairo. Itrunch Houses—Hotel d’Anyleterre, Geneva; Hotel des Ambastadeurs, Mentone. BASLE. Largest First-Class Family House at the Central Station. finest and QUIETEST SITUATION. GARDEN. ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT. STEAM HEATING. _ LIFT . BALE. HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF. T HIS beautiful FIRST-CLASS ESTABLISHMENT is the most important and the best situated, opposite the Central Station. It has been entirely refurnished, and fitted with the most recent improvements. Vast covered Restaurant Terrace. Highly recommended. Toms moderate. HYDRAULIC LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT. CENTRAL HEATING. _ Managed by the Proprietor, E. J. GOETZINGER. BASLE. THREE KINGS HOTEL, L ARGEST First-class Family Hotel in Basle, in a quiet, healthy, and magnificent situation on the River Rhine, and in the centre of the town. Hydraulic Lifts. Electric Light. Omnibus in attendance at tbe German and Swiss Railway Station. Proprietor, C. FLUCK. BASLE. HOTEL BEIiNEEHOF. Finest and most convenient position on the Promenades, near the Central Station. Comfortable House. Electric Light. Moderate Charges. A. Geilenkirchkn, Proprietor. BASLE. HOTEL HOFER. Opposite the Central and Alsacian Station. COMFORTABLE HO USE. Moderate Charges. Central Heating. G. STOFFEL, Proprietor. BASLE. HOTEL SCKRIEDER ZUM DEUTSGHEN HOF. O PPOSITE the Baden Railway Station. Comfortable accommodation. Moderate Charg * s M. ERNE, Proprietor. WHYMPER’S GUIDE TO CHAMONIX AND MONT BLANC A N#w Edition. With 66 Illustrations and Maps. Crown 8vo., 3a. net. London ; John Murray, Albemarle St ,W. BaYEUX. HOTEL DU LUXEMBOURG. Reputed the best. Situated in the centre of the town, close to the Cathedral and publi. buildings. Breakfast, 2 fr. 50 c.; Dinner, 3 fr. Rooms from 2 fr. Table d’H6te. Restaurant a la Carte. Garden. Billiard-room. Recreation Ground. Carriages for xcursions. ENGLISH SPOKEN. 1900. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 7 BERLIN. HOTEL DER RE ICHSHOF, 70a, WILHELMSTRASSE, 70a (close to the Unter den Linden). FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. ELEGANT HOME for FAMILIES. Arrangements made. Inclusive terms. LEOPOLD SCHWARZ, Proprietor. BERNE. BERNERHOF HOTEL. This beautiful First-class Establishment is the most important and the best situated in the Town, at two minutes’ walk from the Station, and close to the House of Parliament. It is surrounded by a beautiful garden with a large terrace, and commands a full view of the Alps. Its superior interior arrangements, the comfort of its Private Apartments, Public Parlours, Heading Saloon, etc., make it the most desirable residence for English Families and single Travellers. Reduced Prices for protracted stays and in Winter season. Lift. Electric Light. Billiard Table. KRAFT & SONS, Proprietors. BIARRITZ. GRAND HOTEL. Winter and Summer Season . FIRST-CLASS HOTEL and the Most Comfortable. All modern improvements and perfect English sanitary arrangements. This Splendid and spacious establishment, in the finest situation of the Town, facing Sea and Baths, is patronised by the elite of the English Colony. LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT. GARDEN. LAWN TENNIS. GOLF LINKS. BILLIARD ROOM. GOOD ACCOMMODATION FOB CYCLES. ENGLISH CHURCH. JV. B .—During the Winter Season the terms are from 10 sh. per day for Room, Service, and 3 meals. Nothing is neglected to secure Visitors every possible comfort. Staircases, corridors, galleries, and reception rooms are heated, and all private rooms are carpeted. A Special Omnibus meets travellers for the Grand Hotel on the arrival of the trains. Address: Mr. L. M. BERTH0UD, Manager, Gd. Hotel, Biarritz. - HOTEL VICTORIA. Imperial Grounds, Grande Plage. mHIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL replete with aU the latest improvements. Sanitary Arrangements by Doulton. Fine situation opposite the British Club, in the Centre of the Best Promenades, and near Golf Links. 160 Rooms and Saloons facing the Sea and Full South. Lift. Electric Light. Calori fere Lawn Tennis. Renowned Cuisine. Carriages of all kinds. Moderate Charges. J. FOURNEAU. FIRST CLASS. Unique situation facing the Sea. Large Garden. Bath Booms and Shower Baths. Billiard and Smoking Rooms. Lift. Electric Light. Centre of the Town and Promenades. Ibe comfort of the rooms at d the careful attention to the cuisine and service have given the establishment a wide world reputation. MARCEL CAMPAGNE, Proprietor. 8 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, May, BIDEFORD. Central for tlie whole of North Devon, Westward Ho, Clovelly, Hartland, Bude, Ilfracombe, and JLynton. Adjoining the Railway Station, with Private entrance. ROYAL HOTEL. HIGH CLASS. Overlooking the River Torridge and Old Bridge. Superbly furnished and lofty rooms. Ventilation and Sanitary arrangements perfect. Continental Courtyard. Finest Stabling and Coach-house In Devonshire. Delightful Winter Resort. A portion of the house built in 1688 by an old merchant prince retains its magnificent oak staircase and suite of rooms, in one of which Charles Kingsley wrote a portion of “ Westward Ho.” BIDEFORD. NEW INN FAMILY HOTEL. The Oldest, Largest, and Principal Hotel in the Town. Private Sitting Rooms, with excellent views. The House is pleasantly situated in the centre of the Town, overlooking the river Torridge, and other Hotels. Has recently undergone extensive additions and improvements. It is well-known for its superior accommodation combined with moderate charges. Proprietor of and Booking Office for the Clovelly and Bude Coaches in connection with the L. & S. W. Railway. Hot and Cold Baths. Billiards, two tables. H. ASCOTT, Proprietor. kkA em yfr* i Xir!srus+ CfSta/r j 'QhSSl factory. BLACK FOREST. Splendid summer-resorts and watering-places. SHORTEST ROUTES Between PARIS (Exhibition) and OBERAMMERGAU (Plays). Ask for Illustrated Guide of the “Society of the Black Forest Hotel Proprietors ” (258 members). \n. ... OSU-Mfjfra*'’ L *- 7 ' C "■ CENTRAL OFFICE AT HORNBERG. S.P. BLAIR ATHOLL. ADJOINING THE STATION. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. BLAIR ATHOLL is much the nearest and most central point from which to visit Killiecrankie, the Queen's View, Loch Tumirel, Rannoch, Glen Tilt, Braemar, the Falls of Bruar, Garry Tum- mel, and Fender; the Grounds of Blair Castle, etc. ; and it is the most convenient resting place for breaking the long railway journey to and from the North of Scotland. t>. MACDONALD & SONS, Proprietors. GRAND HOTEL DE BLOIS ET DE§ FAMIIiLES. THIBATTDIER G-IGr LsT OTsT. CLOSE TO THE CASTLE OF BLOIS. Highly recommended to Strangers. VERY COMFORTABLE TABLE D’HOTE AND RESTAURANT. Apartments for Families. Stable for Motor Cars and Cycles. Comfortable Carriages for visiting Chambord and the Environs. Moderate Charges. Baths in the Hotel. Beautiful Dining-room in Ulysse Pottery. OMNIBUS AT THE STATION. ENGLISH SPOKEN. TELEPHONE. BORDIGHERA. ALBRECHT’S . . . GRAND HOTEL BRITANNIQUE, Large Garden. Good Cookery. Moderate Prices. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK TO CONSTANTINOPLE, BRUSA, AND THE TROAD. Edited by General Sir Charles Wilson, R.E., K.C.B. With 12 Maps aud Plans. Cr. 8vo., 7s. 6 d. 1900. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 9 BORDIGHERA (Riviera). THE NEW _—~ HOTEL ROYAL Large High-class Hotel. Full South. Garden. Terraces. Grand situation on elevated ground commanding finest view of the whole coast. Electric Light. Lift. Bath-rooms on each floor. Corridors and public rooms heated by steam. Sanitation certified. Every modern appliance. KUNZLER & PALOMBI, Proprs. HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE Family House. Full South. Central situation in a fine garden near railway station. Electric Light throughout. Known for its comfort and good cuisine. Moderate prices. J. Kunzler (Swiss), Manager. An Omnibus for the two Establishments meets all trains at Bordighera and at Ventimiglia Station if requested. BOULOGNE-SUR-MER. FIRST CLASS. Recommended to Tourists. Select Company. Situated in the most Central part. Choice Cuisine and Wines. Arrangements made for a protracted stay. Electric Light. Telephone. Moderate Charges. J. BOUTON-DEPORT, Proprietor. BOULOGNE-SUR-MER. Hotel du Pavilion Imperial. The only Hotel Facing the Sea. Electric Lift and Light. VERMERSCH, Proprietor. Also Proprietor of the Imperial Hotel, 4, Rue Christophe Colomb (Champs Elysees), Paris. BOULOGNE-SUR-MER. HOTEL E»ES BAINS. Mr. L. W ALLET, Proprietor. L’IRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated on the Port, facing the Railway Station and L Steamers. Near the Post Office and Casino. Bath Rooms. Advantageous arrangements made for a stay. LA BOURBOUL.E-LES-BAINS (France). GRAND HOTEL de PARIS The best in every respect. Lift. Electric Light. Telephone. Madame LEQUIME, Proprietress. LA BOURBOULE-LES-BAINS (France). MEDICIS & PALACE HOTEL. Modern Sanitary System. Very comfortable. Electric Light, Telephone, Lift, Omnibus, Interpreter, Baths, Ca'orifere. A. SENNEGY, Proprietor. 10 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, BRUNSWICK. HOTEL DEUTSCHES HAUS. P ROMINENT Central Location, opposite the Dome and the Castle Dankwarderode, near the Residential Palace and the Theatre. FIRST-CLASS HOUSE. NEWLY BUILT. Openly situated on three sides. Fireproof. EVERY MODERN COMFORT, MODERATE TERMS. ROBERT SCHRADER. BRUNSWICK. SCHRADER’S HOTEL. (FORMERLY CIS SEE.) OLD RENOWNED FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Every Modern Comfort. Rooms from Mk. 2 upwards. HOTEL CARRIAGE AT ALL TRAINS. Direction, W. SCHWARZE (previously, Hotel du Nord, Stettin). BRUNIG. HOTEL KURHAUS BRUNIG, PENSION 3400 Feet above the Sea. Railway Station between Lucerne and Interlaken. Comfortable Hotel. Modern Sanitation. SPLENDID HEALTH RESORT. BRUSSELS. GRAND HOTEL, GERNAY. Close to the Railway Station tor Ostend, Germany, Holland, Antwerp and Spa, form¬ ing the Corner of the Boulevards Botanique et du Nord. Moderate charges. Baths in the Hotel. Telephone. BUXTON HYDROPATHIC BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE. Telegraphic Address, “Comfortable," Buxton. National Telephone, No. 5. Apply, Mr. H. LOMAS. O ITU ATED over One Thousand Feet .'above the sea level, sheltered from the north and hJ easr, overlooking the Public Gardens, and close to the celebrated Mineral Wells and Bath*. Magnificent Public Rooms, American Elevator, Electric Light, Hydropathic Baths of every description, Electric Baths, Massage, Electro-Massage, the Nauheim Treatment and the Greville Hot Air Treatment. TENNIS, GOLF, HUNTING, FISHING. CINDERELLA DANCE EVERY SATURDAY THROUGHOUT THE YEAR. CAEN. HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE, Rue St. Jean, Nos. 77, 79, 81. f URST-CLASS. Situated in the Centre of the Town. Rendezvous of the best Society. 100 elegantly Furnished and comfortable Bed Rooms and fitting Rooms. Breakfasts a la Carte. Table d’Hote Breakfasts at 3 francs; Dinner at Table d’Hote, 4 francs. Suites of Apartments for Families. Electiic Light throughout. Baths. Telephone. 1900. MURRAY’S HAFDBOOK ADVERTISER. 11 CAEN. HOTEL D’ESPAGNE. XjHRST-CLASS. Very Comfortable. Recommended by Baedeker’s Guide. Moderate Charges. Breakfast, 2s. 3d. ; Dinner, 2s. 8 d. ; wine, cyder, and soda water included ; Bedroom from 2s. The Proprietor speaks English and French ; he is a Member of the Cyclists’ Touring Club, London and Touring Club of France. _ E. RENAUX, Proprietor. ’ SHEPHEARD’S HOTEL. Patronized by Imperial and Royal Families. This world-famed Establishment, situated in the most healthy and interesting part of the city, combines the comforts of home with the luxury of the finest hotels in Europe. Rooms and Suites of Apartments facing full south. Private Street Entrances. Fire-places. Hair Dressing Saloon. Tennis Courts. Branch Offices of the Egyptian Post. FIREPROOF STAIRCASES. ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT THE BUILDING. HYDRAULIC LIFTS. Drainage and Sanitary Arrangements on the most Modern Principles. Fitted up by Eminent English Engineers and approved by the Sanitary Engineer to the Egyptian Government. A thick layer of Hydraulic Concrete preventing humidity and noxious emanations. The surrounding Gardens ana Palm Groves are the Property of the Hotel. BRISTOL HOTEL, CAIRO. Strictly First-Class, situated full South, right opposite the famous Esbekieh Gardens. Perfect Sanitary Arrangements. Electric Light throughout. Charges exceptionally moderate. Evening dress for dinner optional. House absolutely tree from mosquitoes. _ C. AQVILINA (late of Thus. Cook & Soil), Proprietor. CANARY ISLANDS. SANTA CATALINA HOTEL, LAS PALMAS. Facing the Sea. Surrounded by its own beautiful gardens. Sanitary arrangements perfect. Private Sitting Rooms and complete Suites of Apartments. Resident English Physician and Nurse. Near English Church, Golf Links, Tennis, &c. Address—THE CANARl ISLANDS COMPANY, Limited, 1, Laurence Pountney Hill, London, E.O. CANNES. HOTEL ET PENSION DE HOLLANDE ET DE RUSSIE. High position, full south, in a magnificent Park, 15 minutes from the Sea, and close to St. Paul’s Church. Tram-Omnibus to and from the Town. Electric Light. Telephone. Moderate Charges. N.H.—Sanitary arrangements are perfect and with latest improvements. JL. ADAM, Proprietor. In Summer —Gd. HOTEL GOESCHENEN, at Goeschenen, St. Gothard Line. CANNES. Hotel Pension and Villa de la Tour. Well situated. West end, Cannes. Highly recommended and considered as one of the most comfortable Family Houses. Arrange¬ ments for short or long stays. Telephone. Tennis. Electric Trams to and from the Town. E. BENZ, Proprietor. 12 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, CARLSBAD. BOHEMIA. CARLSBAD. AUSTRIA. Station on the Buschtiehrader Railway and the Imperial Austrian State Railway. Ordinary services from all the large towns on the Continent. Express and Sleeping Car Services. Trains de Luxe. The Orient Express (Paris, Constantinople) ; the Ostend Express. CARLSBAD is situated in a romantic Valley, and surrounded by extensive and beautiful Woods, and is the Premier Alealine Mineral Bath. Average annual temperature, 45*7° F. Average summer temperature, 57'2° F. 16 Mineral Springs, varying from 97*8° F. to 163*6° F. The Sprudel and the Muhlbrunn being the most frequented. MAGNIFICENT BATHING 1899. ESTABLISHMENTS. 50,453 BATHERS. THE NEW KAISERBAD 125,000 TOURISTS AND IS THE MOST REMARKABLE IN EUROPE. PASSING VISITORS. The Waters of Carlsbad are prescribed for disorders of the Stomach, the Intestines, the Spleen, the Liver, the Kidneys and Urinary Organs, Hemorrhoids, Gout, Obesity, Constipation, and (with great success) Diabetes. Four Large Bathing Establishments, fitted with the latest appli¬ ances, are under the control of the Municipality. Mineral baths, soft-water baths and shower baths, iron-mud baths, steam and needle baths, electric bath, massage, carbonic acid baths. Swedish hydro¬ pathic and medical gymnastic establishment (Zander system). Bathing and swimming in the River Eger. NUMEROUS FIRST-CLASS HOTELS AND OVER 1,000 PENSIONS & VILLAS Replete with every Modern Comfort. Electric Light and the Incandescent Light system. Separate Water Supply system for drinking and household purposes. Nearly all wood and asphalte paving. Newly constructed drainage system. Theatres, Orchestral and Vocal Concerts, Military Band, Dancing, Riding School, Lawn Tennis, Horse Races. A network of charming walks and drives of over 62 miles in the mountains and woods surrounding the town, affording many splendid views. Information and Descriptive Pamphlet on application to the Town Council. 1900. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 13 CARLSBAD. ItOSCMESK’S HOTEL Goldener Schild and Zwei Deutsche Monarchen. First-class Hotel, finest position in town. 200 Rooms and Saloons. Concert Garden. Large Promenade Garden. Splendid Dining-room with extensive glass Verandah. Cafe with Newspapers in every language. Weekly, two concerts by the Concert Orchestra. Baths. Electric Light. Lift. Telephone. Carriages. Omnibus. F. ROSCHER, Proprietor, Court Purveyor of the Prince of Sehaumburg-Lippe. CARLSBAD (Bohemia). FIRST-CLASS HOUSE, With every comfort of modern times . IN THE BEST PART OF THE TOWN AND NEXT TO THE SPRINGS AND BATHS. EXCELLENT TABLE. LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT. TELEPHONE. Telegrams: KROH, CARLSBAD. CARLSBAD. SAVOY WEST-END HOTEL Honoured by H.R.H. The Prince of Wales , H.I.H. Grand Duke of Russia, H.R.H. Princess of Saxe Coburg-Gotha, H.H. The Khedive of Egypt, dr. npHIS HOTEL is constructed and fitted up on the most approved principles of modern 1 high-class Hotels. It is situated on the Schlossberg opposite the American Park, in the healthiest position of Carlsbad, and is central to all the different Springs. First-class Restaurant, Grill Room, Ladies’ Saloon, Reading and Smoking Rooms. Garden, Verandah, Terrace, Electric Light, Lift. The new Cleopatra Villa Annex of the Hotel is beautifully furnished and arranged in large and small apartments. a i p rcii a* NUNGoricn (Connected with the Savoy, Continental and d’Angleterre Hotels, Cairo, and Grand Hotel, Ilelouan, and Hotel des Rains, Helouan, Egypt). CARLSBAD. HOTEL KONIGSVILLA AND VILLA TERESA. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL, prominent central location, close to the Springs and Baths, standing in its own grounds. DINING, SMOKING, AND READING ROOMS, VERANDAH. LIFT, ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT, BATHS. April and May, August and September—Reduced Prices. Telegrams Konigsvilla, Carlsbad. 14 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, Opened CARLSBAD (BOHEMIA). Opened j TmV’ RESIDENZ HOTEL, 'IS 7 ' F IRST-CLASS HOTEL in the centre of the town, opposite the “Sprudel ” and'near the other Springs, in place of the old Hotel, “3 Easanen.” Newly built, with all comfort. Electric Light, Steam Heating, Lift, Telephone, and Baths. Splendid Dining and Cafe Saloons, excellent Table, choice Wines. Open Summer and Winter. Omnibus at the Station. Managed by the Proprietor, ANTON WIESINGER. CARLSBAD. HOTEL BRISTOL With Dependance, VILLA. VICTORIA. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, best location, close to Springs and Baths. Standing in its own grounds. MUCH FREQUENTED BY ENGLISH AND AMERICANS. Dining, Smoking and Reading Rooms. VERANDAH. LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT. BATHS. Telegrams“B ristol, Carlsbad.” carlsbad” ~~ mu HOTEL POPP. Most frequented Frst-class Hotel. Peooms at all prices. Spring and autumn considerably reduced terms. Address for Telegrams : PUPP. CARLSBAD. carlsbad! HOTEL NATIONAL, M O-IT Beautiful location, next to the Springs, Baths and City Park. Restaurant with Terrace and Verandah. Reading, Smoking and Card Rooms. Baths. Lift. Moderate Terms. Omnibus at the Station. ADOLF vVI SsINGER, Proprietor. CARLSBAD. ANGER’S HOTEL. This FIRST-CLASS HOTEL offers special comfort to English and American Travellers. OPEN ALL YEAR ROUND. CHARGES MODERATE. ENGLISH AND AMERICAN NEWSPAPERS. FIRST-CLASS RESTAURANT. Coffee Room and American Bar. Omnibus at the Station. Electric Light. Central Heating Apparatus. FRANCIS ANGER. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 16 1900. CARLSBAD. ROSCHER’S HOTEL. GOLDENER SCHILD AND ZWEI DEUTSCHE MONARCHEN. trHRST-CLASS HOTEL, in the most beautiful location of the town. J. 200 Rooms and Saloons. Concert Garden, large Promenade Garden. Remarkable Dining Saloon with large Glass Verandah. Coffee Saloon with Newspapers in all languages. Concert of the Concert Band twice a week. Baths, Carriages, Omnibus, Electric Light, Lift, Telephone. Radway Ticket Office and Royal Bavarian Custom Revision in the House. F. ROSCHER, Hotelier. COMO. (On the border of the Lake.) Magnificent Palace, built for the purpose of an hotel, with the most complete comfort. , (Opened March, 1899.) Very reasonable prices. V. COLLEONIf Proprietor. COMO. GRAND HOTEL VOLTA VERY FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. On the Border of the Lake. ROOM, LIGHT, & ATTENDANCE, From 3 frail cs. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK TO Holland and Belgium, 18 Maps and Plans. 6s. 21st Edition. CONSTANTINE (ALGERIA). THE GRAND HOTEL. .1 '* l iik ftVr - i,- Iff (> • •'» * fit; G First-Class. F INEST and most Central Position in the Town. Com¬ pletely Renovated. Magnificent Dining and Reception Rooms to seat 300 people. Baths aud Telephone in the Hotel. Interpreter and Omnibus to every Train. Noted Celiars- C. LEGEY, Proprietor. CONSTANTINOPLE. GRAND HOTEL DE L0NDRES. HOTEL BRISTOL. GRAND HOTEL D’ANCLETLRRE & ROYAL (.1. MISSIRIE). HOTEL BYZANCE, All these First-Class Hotels have a glorious view, and are replete with every modem comfort. Drainage and Sanitary Arrangements on English Principles. First-Class French and English Cuisine. 16 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, CONSTANCE (Germany). INSEL HOTEL ON THE LAKE. One of the most curious Hotels in Europe. Ancient Dominican Convent, with beautiful frescoes from the 12th and 13th century and historical reminiscences, now converted into a large First-Class Hotel. 300 Reds, with every comfort. Electric Light. Lift. Shady Garden. Fishing and Rowing, etc. J. A. BRAUEN, Manager. COPENHAGEN. vestre Bo ULEVARD. COPENHAGEN. L’lRST-CLASS HOUSE, newly built, 2 minutes from the Terminus and Tivoli. 100 L comfortable rooms from Kr. 2 upwards, including electiic light and service. Lift. Excellent Dinners at Kr. 2. Baths. Beautiful Reading Room, Cafe and Restaurant. Porter at all trains. j\ NIELSEN, Director. COUTANCES. HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE. Refurnished with every comfort. Re¬ commended to Families. Moderate Prices. Omnibus meets all Trains. Storage for Cycles. BRIENS, Proprietor. DINANT-SUR-METJSE. HOTEL DE LA TETE D’OR. ALEXTS DISIERE, Proprietor. IRST-CLASS, upon the GRAND PLACE. Is to be recommended for its comfort. Pension from 8 or 9 francs per day. DIEPPE. KOTUI. ROYA.L. Facing the Beach , close to the Bathing Establishment and the Parade. TT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT ESTABLISHMENT AND ONE OF THE MOST PLEASANTLY SITUATED HOTELS IN DIEPPE, commanding a beautiful and extensive View of the Sea. Families and Gentlemen visiting Dieppe will find at this Establishment elegant Large and Small Apartments, and the best of accom¬ modation, at very reasonable prices. Large Reading Room, with French and English Newspapers. The Relreshmeuts, &c., are of the best quality. In fact, this Hotel fully bears out and deserves the favourable opinion expressed of it in Murray’s and other Guide Books. LARSONNEUX, Proprietor. Table d’Hote and Private Dinners. The only Hotel in Dieppe with a Lift. DIEPPE. GRAND HOTEL. On the Beach, fronting the Sea. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Salle a Manger on the Terrace overlooking the Sea. Most Comfortable, with Moderate Prices. Arrangements made with Families. Baths in the Hotel. Table d’Hote. Restaurant a la Carte. Telephone. Electric Light. Lift. _ _G. DUCOUDERT, Proprietor. DINARD (Ille et Vilaine). MAISON ROUGE, F. M. GILBERT SMITH. BANKER, HOUSE AGENT, and TEA and WINE MERCHANT. This Establishment is specially founded for English and Americans. All Enquiries will receive prompt attention, and a Descriptive Circular will be sent Gratis. 3 900. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 17 DINARD. 10 Hours from Southampton (via Saint-Malo). The Most Fashionable Summer and Winter Resort in the WEST OF FRANCE. Noted for its Mild Climate in Winter. GOLF, TENNIS, CRICKET, CYCLING, ETC. JOHN LE COCQ, Banker, House and Estate Agent. DINARD. IS-- DINAN-PARAME. Lift. DRESDEN. Electric Light. BISMARCKPLATZ, 7, NEAR THE CENTRAL STATION. S PLENDID situation in the English Quarter. Greatly patronised by English and American families. Every home comfort. Rooms from 2 marks, everything included. Pension arrangements. G. WENTZEL, Proprietor. v/ocv/j-/?/ 'n DUBLIN. Charming situation, overlooking Stephen's Green Park. Most Central Position. Moderate Charges. HOTEL. Electric Light. Hydraulic Passenger Elevator. ENGELBERG. THE VALLEY OF ENGELBERG (3200 ft. high), near Lucerne. Season 15th May— 30th September. HOTEL SONNENBERG. T HE property of Mr. H. HUG. Summer stay unrivalled by its grand Alpine scenery. Clear bracing air, equable temperature. Recommended by the highest medical authorities. The HOTEL SONNENBERG, in the finest and healthiest situation facing the Titlis and the Glaciers, is one of the most comfortable and beet managed hotels in Switzerland. Lawn Tennis Ground. Excellent and central place for sketching, botan- ising and the most varied and interesting excursions. The ascent of the Titlis is best made from here. Shady Woods. Vapour and Shower Baths. Waterspring 6° R.; 200 Rooms. Pension from £2 6s. a week upwards. Because of its so sheltered situation specially adapted for a st.-iv in May and June. Resident English Physician. ___ C 18 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, ENGELBERG, SWITZERLAND. KURHAUS HOTEL AND PENSION TITUS. F IRST-CLASS HOTEL, best situated in the valley, in the middle of an extensive garden. 240 Beds. Large sitting-rooms. Lift. Electric Light in all the rooms. English Chapel in the garden. Good attendance.. Moderate charges. Cook’s tickets taken. Open from 1 st May until 1 st October. GRAND HOTEL AND KURANSTALT. This new first-class Hydropathic Establishment with 250 Beds, two Lifts, Electric Light in all the rooms, Central Heating, opposite to the Hotel Titlis, will be open on the 15th May. The building is fitted up to the most recent hygienic principles. The various medical appliances fulfil the utmost demands of modern science and furnish everything necessary for hydropathic, mechanical and electric treatment. For illustrated prospectus and tariff please apply to the Proprietor. Ed. CATTANI. ENGELBERG, SWITZERLAND. HOTEL AND PENSION NATIONAL FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. 150 BEDS. Electric Light. Bath Rooms on every Floor. Pension from Seven Francs a day and upwards FRAU DR. MULLER, Proprietor. ENGELBERG, SWITZERLAND. WELL KNOWN HOTEL WITH C00D ACCOMMODATION, CONTAINING 100 BEDS. Conversation Saloon, Reading and Smoking Rooms. Electric Light. Baths. Pension : 61 to 8 frs. a day, everything included. Reduced prices in June and September. Omnibus at Railway Station. Frz. WYRSCH-CATTANI, Manager. BATH-EMS. THE “FOUR TOWERS” Family Hotel and Bath. House. Beautifully situated in centre of Kurpark, sur¬ rounded by large Garden. Directly communi¬ cating with Royal Mineral Bath House, opposite Heyer's Inhaling Establishment. Comfortably furnished Rooms from 2 Marks upwai'd. Sani¬ tary arrangements perfect. E. BECKER. Dependence: Villa Bf.cker, Victoria Allee, No. 4. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK TO IRELAND. Fifth Edition. With 19 Maps and Plans. 9s. EXETER, DEVONSHIRE. POPLE’S NEW LONDON HOTEL. Patronised by H.R.H. The Prince of Wales and T.R.H. The Duke and Dcohess of York. A DJOINING Northemhay Park and near the Cathedral. Large covered Continental Courtyard. Famed for its Cuisine and Wines. Table d’Hote. Night Porter. Hotel Omnibuses and Cabs. POSTING ESTABLISHMENT. 1900 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER 19 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK TO EGYPT. CAIRO, THEBES, THE SUEZ CANAL, SINAI, THE COURSE OF THE NILE FROM DONGOLA, &c., &e. Edited by Miss BRODRICK and Professor SAYCE, with the assistance of d : s- tinguished Egyptolog sts and Officials With many New Maps and Plans. Cr. 8vo., 15s. FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. Opposite the Central Railway Station. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Lift. Electric LigTit. Steam Heating-. - ... K. FRANK, Proprietor. FRAN KFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. tjRMtD HOTEti HVUOKMi. (OPPOSITE THE CENTRAL RAILWAY STATION.) FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. Moderate Charges. Tariff' in Every Room. ELECTRIC LIGHT. LIFT. H. HABERLAMD, Proprsetor. FRANZENSBAD. 106-108, SALZQUELLSTRASSE. WEST LARGE HOTEL and PENSION, with elegant Dining and Reading Rooms. 1\ 0«n Park, with Lawn Tennis Ground. Patronised by Members of Impelial and Royal Families, and by the Aristocracy. Under personal Management of the Proprietor, T. F. KOPP. FREIBURG (in Breisgau, Baden). HOTEL VICTORIA. Near the Station, Post, and Telegraph Offices. Best Situation. Good Attendance. Moderate Charges. Pension. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK TO SPAIN. By Richard Ford. With 60 carefully drawn Mans and Plans of Towns aud Buildings. 2 VoK 8vo. iO*. FREUTtEXSTAET. ( 2,600 feet above sea.) I RAILWAY-LINE STUTTGART ,, 0FFENBURG, STRASBURG. ^IRST-CLASS HOTEL, in most healthy position on a charming hill, in the middle of a beautiful Park. Electric Light. Lawn Tennis. Sanitary Arrangements Perfect. Best centre for excursions. ERNEST LUZ, Junior, Proprietor. GENEVA. GRAND HOTEL DE LA PAIX. THIRST-CLASS, 200 Rooms, central and finest situation in front of the -L Lake and Mont Blanc. Entirely Renewed. Central Heating. Every Modern Comfort. FRED WEBER, Proprietor and Manager. Telegraphic Address: “Hotel Paix, Geneva.” 20 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, GENEVA. HOTEL PENSION VICTORIA (FORMERLY HOTEL FLAEGEL) Finest situation, near the English Garden. Splendid view of the Lake and the Alps. Moderate Charges. Electric Light. Omnibus at the Station. Lift. Baths. CENTRAL HEATING- \\. XI ESS, Proprietor. GENEVA. HOTEL PENSION FLE1SCHMANN Rond Point de Plainpalais, Near the Bastion Park. Fine situation. MOD ERA TE CHARGES. Electric Light. Baths. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK TO SWEDEN. Stockholm, Upsala, Gothenburg, The Lakes, The Shores of the Baltic, &c. 3 Maps and Plan. 6th Edition. 6s. ITALY. GENOA. ITALY. Hotel Continental des Etrangers. Five minute^ from Railway Station and Harb ur. Close to Thomas Cook and Son’s and to North German Lloyd Offices. Steam Heating, Electric Light, Lift, Railway Booking Office. American or European Plan for Transient Guests. Tariff posted in each room. Telegraphic Address : “ Etrangers, Genoa.” MEL4NO BROS., Proprietors. THE HAGUE (Holland). MOTEL 333E3S IMDES. HOTEL DE LUXE. I HOTEL DE LUXE. Ml HE First and Largest in the Town. Entirely Refurnished. In the JL centre of the town and facing the Royal Theatre. Two minutes from the Wood. Electric Tramway for Scheveningen passes the Hotel. Electric Light. Intercommunal Telephone. Splendid Saloons and Apartments with every modern comfort. Baths and Hair-dressing Saloon in the Hotel. English Sanitary System. Doctor attached to the Hotel. Carriages and Riding Horses. Excellent Cuisine and choice Wines. Concert at Dinner. Elegant Hall and Saloons for Soirees and Balls. Moderate Prices. Omnibus meets every train HALLER, Director. HAVRE. HOTEL D’ANCLETERRE, RUE DE PARIS, 124-126. XCEEUJ NGLY well situated in the best Tj quarter of the Town and recommended for its Comfort and Moderate Charges. Rooms from 2 to 5 francs. Restaurant a la Carte. Table d'hote. Breakfast , 2 fr. 50 c. Dinners, .'if rs. English and German spoken. / GRELLE, Proprietor. HAVRE. HOTEL CONTINENTAL. First-Class Hotel in the finest situation in Havre, facing the Jetty. Large and small apartments. Table d'hote. Restaurant ii la carte. English spoken. Telephone 226. Vve. BLOUET & FILS. HEIDELBERG. HOTEL VICTORIA. First-Class Hotel in every respect. Exceedingly well situated. Beautiful Verandah and large Garden at the back of the House. Advantageous arrangements made with families intending a longer stay. Highly recommended. HEIDELBERG. HOTEL SCHRIEDER. f TR^T-CLASS Hotel, nearest to the Station. Large Garden vr th covered Verandah. All Visitors’ Rooms face the Garden. Oldest Hotel in the town, entirely renovated. Rooms from 2-50 to 5 marks, including light and a'tendance. Arrangem-nts made for prolonged stay. 0 . g'tJTTERLIN, new Proprietor. 1900. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 21 HILDESHEIM. HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE. FIRST- CLASS HO USE. Situated in the Centre of the Town. Baths in the house. Omnibus at the Station. Central Heating Apparatus. 50 Rooms and Saloons, fitted up with every comfort of modern times. English newspapers. C. HEERDT. AN IDEAL. POSITION. X X* X" -A_ G O 3&3I 3E$ JES HOTEL. THE PRINCIPAL AND ONLY HOTEL ON THE SEA SHORE. r PHE Finest Private Marine Esplanade in ihe Kingdom. Unrivalled Sea Frontage and open Surroundings, Grounds, Five Aires. 250 Apartments. Lawn Tennis. Croquet Lawn. Elegant Salle k Manger. Drawing. Heading, Smoking and Billiard Rooms, and Sumptuous Lounge Hall on the Ground Floor. Passenger Lift Moderate Tariff. There is attached to the lintel one of the Largest Swimming Lathi in the United Kingdom (the temperature of which is regulated). Also well-appointed Private Hot and Cold Sea and Fresh Water Baths, Douche, Shower, &c. II. R. GROVER, Manager The Ilfracombe Hotel Co., Ltd. To whom all communications should be addressed. ILFRACOMBE. FIRST-CLASS BOAROIN3 HOUSE WITH MAGNIFICENT SEA VIEWS. 42 BEDROOMS. BATHS. BALCONIES. BILLIARDS. Finest Drawing, Hoorn in Town. BUGS Guide Gralis Special Sanitary Certificate. W. R. FOSTER, Proprietor. HOMBURG. arvr si* or bio.w nr su*, GERMANY. piTTER’S PARK HOTEL AND VILLA. JA) Temporary Residence of H.R.H. the Prince of Wales. Arrangements made at reduced prices in April, May, dune and September. 25 per cent. Discount for sick and wounded officers and their wives. INTERLAKEN. Schweizerttof— Hotel Suisse. Finest Views. First-Class. Lift. Personally conducted by the Proprietors, E. STRUBIN & W1RTH. INTERLAKEN. RUGEN HOTEL, JUNGFRAUBLICK. Not to be confounE X.OIVI5K.B S - PIAZZA. MUNICIPXO In the healthiest and most central position. Near the Landing Pier. Splendid views of the Gulf and Vesuvius. Lift. Baths. Cahmfere. Newly furnisned and arranged to afford residents ery convenience and comfort with moderate charges. Perfect Drainage. Bus meeting every train. Cook’s Coupons aecep'etl. DELVITIO, POGGIANI, CAMPIONE, Proprietors. NAPLES. Healthiest and most beautiful situation ; close to railway stations for San Martino (funicular), and for Pozzuoli and Baue; especially convenient for sightseeing. An English House. Recommended to English and Amei'ican Visitors. Tariff and Electric Light in every room. Lift. Fried charges, always including Baths in the Rooms, Light a id attendance. NAPLES. XIATI7T TiPTQTnT CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELS. One of the best nUlbL DIUOl vb, Hotels in Italy. The only first-class Hotel, iu the healthiest port of the town, and iu an elevated situation, enjoying a full view of the uni ivailed panorama, it is built of a compact Lava stone which does not absorb moisture, and fitted up with the best Sanitary Arrangements. Electric Light in every Room. Great Comfort. Excellent Cooking. Good Attendance. Lift. Moderate Prices, and At rangements for Prolonged Stay. A. LANDRY, Proprietor. This Hotel is open all the year round, and Visitors are respectfully requested not to allow themselves to be imposed upon by interested parties and importunate Guides or Porters, as all necessary information is given at the Hotel Bristol for the excursions from Naples, and as to the bent shops in the City. 30 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, NAPLES. Hotel Grande Bretagne ’IRST-CLASS HOUSE. Best Situated. Catholic Church in the Hotel. Every Modern Comfort. 1 NERVI. HOTEL VICTORIA. Near the Sea and Railway Station. 15 Minutes from Genoa. Stopping” place for all express trains. Patronised by H.H. the Queen of Portugal, and H Exc. the Marscbell von Mdtke. HYDRAULIC i.IFT MODERN HEATING APPARATUS. NEUCHATEL. GRAND HOTEL DE BELLE VUE, Mr. ALBERT ELSKES, Proprietor. First-Class Hotel. Magnificently situated on the Border of the Lake. Commanding splendid Views of the Panorama of the Alps. I ilt. Eleetrie Light in all the Rooms, harden. PENSION PRICES ALL THE YEAR ROUND. N.B.-Besides the Evening Train (direct) a Day Tiain is runni g between Neivbatel and Paris, and vie rerun. CENTRAL HEATING THROUGHOUT. NEUCHATEL (Switzerland). Hotel des Alpes and Hotel Terminus. U I NEST view from Neucliatel of the whole E Panorama of the Town and Chain of the Alps from Stintis to Mont Blanc. Entirely rebuilt. Lift. Electric Light. Large secluded Garden. E. HALLER, Proprietor. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK TO ALGERIA AND TUNIS. By Col. Sir Lambert Plaifair, K.C.M.G., H.B. M. Con»ul-Gen. for Algeria and Tunis. Fifth Epition. Numerous Maps and Plans. 10s. 6 d. NEUHAUSEN, SWITZERLAND. FALLS OF THE RHINE. VIEW FROM THE HOTEL 3CHWEIZERHOF. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, replete with every convenience. 200 Rooms. Fire Escapes. Hydraulic Lift. Eleetrie Light. FINE PARK o,:ndL GARDENS. Lawn Tennis—Carriages—Storage for Bicycles—Dark Room. A Chartning Summer Resort, noted for its healthy position, bracing air, and most, beautiful landscape. BY MEANS OF ELECTRICITY AND BENGAL LIGHTS THE FALLS OF THE RHINE ARE BRILLIANTLY ILLUMINATED EVERY NIGHT DURING THE SEASON. English Divine Service in the Church located in the Grounds of the Schweizerhof. 1900. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 31 NUREMBERG. GOLDEN EAGLE HOTEL. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOUSE. Newly rebuilt. 200 Beds. Most central and best position. Specially patronised by English and Americans. Arrangements made. Baths. Electric Light and central Heating in Corridors and every Room. Lift. Omnibus meets all trains. Under the personal management of the Proprietor, _____WILLY SCHLENK. NURNRERG (NUREMBERG). HOTEL BAYERISCHER-HOF. THIS First-rate and Superior Hotel, situated in the centre of the t >wn, is highly sj>oken of In English and American Travellers for its general comfort and moderate charges. Has l>een greatly enlarged, and contains now 100 w^ll-furnished rooms and saloons. Ladies* and Reading Saloon, Smoking Room. &c. 9 and a beautiful large Dining Room English and Foreign Newspapers, Carriages at the Hotel. Omnibuses to and from each train. English Church in tlie Hotel; Divine Service every Sunday. Electric Light, J. AUINGrER, Proprietor. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK TO NORWAY. CHRISTIANIA, BERGEN, TR0NDHJEM, THE FJELDS & FJ0RES. With epfcial information for Fishermen and Cyclists. By T. Michell, C.B., H.B.M. Consul-General for Norway. 13 Maps and Plans. 9 th Edition. 7s. 6d. OSTEND. Enlarged and Improved. Splendid Garden. FIRST-CLASS AND MOST FASHIONABLE HOTEL AND RESTAURANT. Unrivalled for their Situation. Bath Booms. Facing Sea and, Bn th&. Highly Recommended. Lift. ' Electric Light. OSTEND. GRAND HOTEL DU LITTORAL. Most fashionable part of the Digue, facing- Sea. LIGHTED THROUGHOUT BY ELECTRICITY. LIFT, Etc. Near St. Malo (France). —The best y and Shore on the Coasts of Brittany, surrounded by charming panorama, picturesque sites, and splendid views ; sweet and very salubrious climate. C55-3R, AZRTD KCOri-nESX* »3E5 QITUATEI> on the very Shore, near the Casino and Bathing Establishment. First-class Hotel, D much frequented by the best English Families. Beautiful Dining Room. Restaurant. Saloon. Lawn Tennis. Hot Baths and Telegraph in the House. Very large Garden. Great Comfort and Moderate Charges. Very advantageous conditions in July and September. Omnibus of the Hotel to all trains and steamers. _ - _ RIGUELLE and. GRAJON, Proprietor PARIS. HOTEL BELLEYUE 39, Avenue de l’Opera, 39. FINEST SITUATION IN THE FRENCH CAPITAL. . First-rate Restaurant and Table d’Hote. Reading and Smoking'Rooms. Hydraulic Lift. Baths. The Entrance Hall, Staircases,' and Corridors are heated. Arrangements for the Winter Season. Telephone. Electric Light throughout. In the Haris “Baedeker” the name of the Proprietor, Mr. L, HAUSER, is. particularly mentioned. 32 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, PAU. THIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated on the Place Roy ale, corn - 1 mands tbe most sple .did view of the whole chain of the Pyrenees, and is adjoining to the English Club. Improved Lift. Bath and Smoking Rooms. GARDERES FRERES, Proprietors. POITIERS. GRAND HOTEL DE FRANCE. First-Class and recoin nended to Families and Tourists for its comfort and good manage¬ ment. The most central of the Town, near the Hotel de Ville, Prefecture, Telegraph, Post Office, Museum, Historical Monuments, and Promenades. Speciality of Fowls and truffled Pates of all sorts. Carriages for Drives. Railway Omnibus calls at Hotel. _ ROBLIN-BOUCHARDEAU, Proprietor . PONTRESINA (Engadine, Switzerland). Altitude 1803 Metres. HOTEL KRONENHOF & BELLAV1STA First-Class. 250 Redrooms. i ’ REATLY enlarged and embellished. The new Bedroom> are in a quiet and sunny '1 position, with line view on the Roseg Glach r and the Snow Mountains. Large Hall with open fireplaces. Lift. Fireproof Staircase. Baths on each floor. Beautiful Public Rooms. Electric Light in all the Rooms. Heated by Steam. Drainage perfect, executed by English Engineers. Good Cuisine and excellent Wines. Reduced terms in Spring and Autumn. The Hotel is largely frequented by English and American visitors. SEASON FROM MAY TO OCTOBER. L. GREDIGr, Proprietor. PRAGUE. /IIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL in the centre of the town. Patronised by English and Americans. First-rate attendance. Moderate Charges. English Church Service in the Hotel. Electric Light. OTTO WELZER, Proprietor. PRAGUE. HOTEL GOLDENER ENGEL. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Best Situated. The Home of the best English and American Visitors. Elegantly Furnished Rooms. Excellent Cooking. F. STICKELi, Proprietor. PRAGUE. HOTEL MONOPOL. CtENTRAL SITUATION, not near, but opposite the Dresden, Carlsbad, and Vienna Station. No carriage or porter wanted. No smoke or noise. Best, newest, first-class Hotel, with the finest Dining Koom and the First Hydraulic Lift in Prague. Adjoining the Graben. Luxuriously newly furnished rooms on every floor. Baths. Garden. English Sanitary Arrangements. MODERATE CHARGES. Carriages. Tram. Tariff forwarded. Servants speak English. W. DESENSKY , Proprietor. Tbe last train leaves the Railway Station at 11.30 p.m., which thus insures the sur¬ roundings of the Hotel being perfectly quiet through the night. 1900. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 33 PRAGUE. HOTEL ERZHERZOG STEPHAN. Firs t- Class Ho tel . On the “ Wenzelsplatz,” nearest to the Railway Stations and the Post and Telegraph Office. ELEGANTLY FURNISHED ROOMS AND APARTMENTS. Garden. Restaurant. Viennese Coffee-house. Splendid Cooking and good Wines. Baths. Telephone. Carriages. Station of the Tram Cars. W. HAUNER, Proprietor. RHEIMS. GRAND HOTEL. A. MUFFLING, Proprietor. I) IRST-t'LASS 1IOTEL. Opposite the Cathe- l. dml. Very Comfortable. Modern Sanita¬ tion. Electric Light. Hot and Gold Baths. Lift. Moderate charges. Rooms from 3 Francs, service atul light included. Telegraphic address,“Grand Hotel, Rlieims.’’ English & German interpreter. ROME. HOTEL VICTORIA (English house , Via Due Marcelli (Piazza di Spagna). EW Large Dining and Sitting Rooms. London “Times” and “Standard” taken in. Garden. Lift. Omnibus. Pension 6, 7, and 8 shillings per day. Electric Light in every room. EWALP THIELE, New Proprietor. ROME. Highest Position in Pome . SITUATED ON THE PINCIAN HILL. COMMANDING FINE VIEW OVER ROME AND CAMPAGNA. Electric Light in Every Room. Tariff and Plan on Application. EIGLIIH HOTEL. SAME MANAGEMENT, EDEN HOUSE, LUCERNE. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOUSE, IN THE BEST SITUATION. ON THE ELECTRIC TP.AM LINE. MODERN COMFORT. OPEN ALL THE YEAR. FRANZ NISTELWICK, Proprietor. ROME CONTINENTAL HOTEL. All Modern Comforts. Open all Year Round. P. LUGANI, Proprietor. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK TO ROME AND THE CAMPAGNA. Containing Short Histories of Rome and of the Papal Power, Articles on Architecture (by R. Phene Spieks, F.S.A.), on Sculpture (by A. S. Murray, LL.D., F.S.A.), and on Painting, by Mrs. Apt (Julia Cartwright^). New Edition (Sixteenth). Revised by NORWOOD YOUNG. With 94 Maps and Plans. Crown 8vo., 10s. D 34 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, R OME, HOTEL GIANELLI ROME. 15, Via Ludovisi. " This well-known First-Class Family House, greatly improved by the new Proprietor, is situated in the healthiest and highest part of Rome near the Gardens. FULL SOUTH. Moderate Charges. Perfect Sanitary Arrangements. Hydraulic Lift. Electric Light. Calorifere. Eath Rooms, Drawing Rooms, Smoking Room. SPECIAL ARRANGEMENTS FOR FAMILIES. OMNIBUS MEETS ALL THE TRAINS. T. LENGYEL, New Proprietor and Manager. ROME. HOTEL MOLARO. 56, VIA GREGORIANA (Near to the Pincio ). FULL SOUTH. Healthiest Situation in Town, and very Central. Old Reputation for its Comfort and Moderate Charges. HYDRAUL 1 C LIFT. .Winter Garden. Electric Light and Calcrifere in all the Rooms. ROME. GRAND HOTEL MARINI. First-Class. Unrivalled for its tealthy, quiet, and central situation. Full South. Lift. Electric Light in Every Room. (OPEN ALL THE YEAR.) EUGENE MARINI, P ropriet or. ROME. HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE. Via BOCCA di L EO NIL T HIS Hotel is conveniently, healthily, and quietly situated in the centre of the City, between the Corso and the Piazza di Spagna, in the most aristocratic quarter of Rome. It offers every possible advantage, and Visitors may rely upon every English comfort. Charges Moderate. Special Arrangements for a Long Term. Open the whole year. Most frequented by English. Particular attention is paid to the Cooking and Service. Lift. Eleotric Light in all the Rooms. Latest English Sanitary Arrangements. Entirely refurnished. H. SILENZI, Proprietor. 1900. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 35 ROUEN. GRAND HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE The Grand Hotel d’Angleterre has Lifts and Baths. Splendid Summer Terrace Restaurant. It is situated on the Cours Boieldieu, and has from its windows the fiutst view on the Seine. Telephone. All rooms lighted by electricity. Moderate Terms. _ HOTEL DE LA POSTE. Lift. Electric Light throughout. Steam Heating. Situated opposite the Post Office in the finest Central part of tne Town. Magnificent Garden in front of the Hotel. Reading, Music, and Writing Saloons. English Newspapers. English and German spoken. Rooms from 3 frs.; Breakfast, 1 fr. 50 c. ; Lunch, 2 frs. 50 c. ; Dinner, 3 fts. 50 c. Lift. ROUEN. GRAND HOTEL de PARIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL situated on the Quay. The most beautiful situation in the Town. Close to 11ie Post and Telegraph Offices, and the Landing St'ges of the Havre Steamers. This Hotel has been newlv furnished, and now offers equally as comfortable accommodation as the Largest Hotels, but with more moderate terms. Telephone 556. Electric Light. English and German Spoken. Member of the Touring Club. Dark Room for Photographers ROUEN. GRAND HOTEL DE FRANCE, Situated in the centre of the Town, and midst the principal monuments. 114 Looms, all lighted by electricity, from 2 Francs. 2 R„t.h Rooms. Garden. Good Table d’Hote. Dejeuner 1.50 fr., Lejeunera la tourchette 2 50 fr.. Dinner 3 fr. Restaurant a la carte. Telephone. Dark Room for Photographers. Englisu spoken. ROY4T LES BAINS. O-Xt-A-lSriO HOE O T IB X*. FT RSI-CLASS HOTEL. HYDRAULIC LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT. LARGE GARDEN WITH TERRACE WALKS. OPEN FROM I 5th MAY TO 15th OCTOBER. L. SERVANT, Proprietor. After-Cure Resort: SALZBURG. Summer and Winter Station. GRAND HOTEL DE L’EUROPE In the midst of a Splendid Park. Grand view of the Alps. Lift, Electric Light, Lawn Tennis, Evening Concerts in the Foyer, Anglo-American Bar. AFTER-CURE APPLICATIONS: Chalybeate and Electric Light Baths, Steam-boxes, Rooms for Medicinal Innalations and Brine Spray, Water Applications and Massage, etc. Treatments are performed by a certified staff of attendants in the presence of an experienced physician. Prospectus sent on application. GEORGE JUNG, Proprietor. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK TO THE RHINE AND NORTH GERMANY, The Black Forest, The Hartz, Thuringerwald, Saxon Switzerland, Rugen, The Giant Mountains, Taunus, Odenwald, Elsass and Lothringen. 42 Maps and Plain . 10s. 20th Edition. 36 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, SAN REMO. THE SAVOY HOTEL. Open January, 1900.—New Palatial Building. Finest site in most fashionable quarter. Perfectly sheltered. Luxurious vegetation. Extensive views. The most up-to-date in San Remo. PAUL MARINI, Proprietor. SAN REMO. /s FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. Finest and Best Situation, Lift, Electric Light. Largest Garden. Restaurant de Luxe. Concerts and Balls. M. BERTOLINI, Proprietor. (Also Proprietor of the Hotel Royal Counnayeur and Aosta.) Sea - side Resort, Scheyejungen. (ON THE NORTH SEA) HOLLAND. THROUGH SERVICES PROM THE PRINCIPAL CONTINENTAL CENTRES TO SCHEVENINGEN ANI) ALL OVER HOLLAND. 1900. SEASON JUNE 1st TO OCTOBER. 1900. SEASON 1900. OPENING of the NEW PIER. (1500 FEET IN LENGTH. The Pavilion will be erected on the PLATFORM OPENING of the PIER-PAVILION. (To SEAT 1200.) at the end of the Pier. OPENING OF THE NEW BOULEVARD RESTAURANT. OPENING OE THE NEW BOULEVARD BODEGA. OPENING OE THE NEW BOULEVARD (JAEE. OPENING OF VERY ELEGANT NEW SHOPS. All the above will he on the MARINE PROMENADE and in connection with the KURHAUS and HOTEL KURHAUS. Eight new Lawn Tennis Courts. ELECTRIC LIGHT. Et-g. B—g ELECTRIC LIGHT. RE-OPENS ON THE 1st OF JUNE. MAGNIFICENT BUILDING. Splendid large Kursaal accommodating 3000 persons. Terrace for 5000 persons. Two Concerts daily by the renowned Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra under the conductorship of Kapellmeister JOSEF REBICEK. Tire General Manager, Seabatn’s Company, Limited. Re=opens on the i st of June. High = class Establishment. 200 Bed-rooms and Private Sitting-rooms with Balconies facing the Sea. Electric Light. Stigler Lift. Grand Restaurant. High-class French Cuisine. Choicest Wines. English-American Bar. Vienna Cafe. Original Hungarian Band. Season's Programme and Plan of Rooms sent on application. All further particulars supplied by THE HOTEL MANAGER. SORRENTO (Bay of Naples)- GRAND HOTEL VICTORIA. AND MOST COMFORTABLE HOTEL. Splendid View on the Bay and Mount Vesuvius. Electric Light throughout. Lawn Tennis. The only Hotel having an tlevator from the Landing-place up to the Hotel. O. FIORENTINO, Proprietor. 1900. MURRAY'S, HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 37 SPA. SPA -Oldest, finest, and most efficacious Mineral ferruginous Waters— SPA 1 SURY, Senior, Proprietor. The Largest First-Class Hotel IN THE CENTRE AND MOST SALUBRIOUS PART OF THE TOWN. Beautiful Park, with furnished Villas and Cottages in the Private Grounds of the Hotel. BATHS. Drawing, Writing and Billiard Rooms. Electric Light throughout. SPA. HOTEL BELL E YUE. Magnificent Situation on the Promenade, near the Royal Palace and Bath Establishment. Large Garden, communicating with a First-class Park. Electric Light._ ROUMA, Proprietor. SPA. GRAND HOTEL FIRST-CLASS HOTEL . Electric Light. Highly Recommended. HENRARD-RICHARD, Proprietor. GRAND HOTEL Patronised by THE ROYAL FAMILY OF BELGIUM. IN THE BEST AND MOST DELIGHTFUL SITUATION OF SPA. LARGE GA RDEN & TEN NIS GROUNDS. Adjoining the Boulevard des Anglais and the English Church. F. LEYH, Resident Proprietor. 34 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, ST. BEATEN BERG. Near Interlaken, Switzerland. HOTEL & PENSION NATIONAL. First-class Climatic Station, 4000 feet above the Sea. The Hotel is in the finest and healthiest part, near large Pine Wood, with large Ver¬ andahs and Balconies. Splendid Panorama of the Jungfkau Chain, its Glaciers and the Lake of Thoune. Moderate Terms. Telephone. ROTEN-GAFNER, Proprietor. ST. BFATEN8ERG Near INTERLAKEN, SWITZERLAND. First-class Climatic Station. Hofei et Pension de la Posfe. First-class House. New stone building. Every comfort. Situated in centre of beautiful Pro¬ menade, with splendid View of the Alps. Post, Telegraph, and Telephone Office in the Hotel. Moderate Tariff. EGLI-BRITNNER, Proprietor. STOCKHOLM. GRAND HOTEL i— —— — t —— — aaBrnwni maafflWBt grTTmrHM Largest and finest Hotel in Scandinavia. Splendid and quiet situation, with magnificent view on the port and the Mature Lake. OPPOSITE THE ROYAL PALACE. Lately completely rebuilt and newly furnished with all modern comforts. LARGE AND ELEGANT DINING-ROOM, CAFE IN INDIAN STYLE. AMERICAN BAR. DRAWING, READING, SMOKING AND BILLIARD-ROOMS. ALL WITH DELIGHTFUL VIEW ON THE LAKE. Halls and separate Saloons for large and small Dinner Parties. Best French and Swedish Cuisine. Rich famous Stock of excellent Wines- PASSENGER AND LUGGAGE LIFTS AT ANY DAY OR NIGHT TIME. Bathrooms on every Floor. Barber and Haircutting Saloon. Larger and smaller Suites of Apartments, consisting of Sitting-room, Bed¬ room, Bath and Toilet Room, at moderate prices. Telephone in each room. MALMO. HOTEL HOHN First-Glass. STOCKHOLM. HOTEL HORN First-Class. EVERY COMFORT OF MODERN TIMES. MODERATE TERMS. STRASBOURG. HOTEL DE LA VILLE DE PARIS. UNIVERSALLY REPUTED. HYDRAULIC LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT. UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT. The largest and most comfortable Hotel in Strasbourg, with all modern comfort. Situated in the finest part of the town, near the Palace, Cathedral, and Promenade. Patronised by Royalty and highly reoommended to English and American Families and Gentlemen. C. MATHIS, Director Proprietor. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK TO SCOTLAND. Edinburgh, Melrose, Abbotsford, Glasgow, Dumfries, Galloway, Ayr, Stirling, Arran, The Clyde, Oban, Inveraray, Loch Lomond, Loch Katrine and Trosachs, Caledonian Canal, Inverness, Perth, Dundee, Aberdeen, Braemar, Skye, Caith¬ ness, Ross, Sutherland, &C. 30 Maps and Plans. New (and 7th) Edition. 9s. 1900. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 39 ST. PETERSBURG. THIS well-known HOTEL has the best situation in St. Petersburg. -L It has lately been entirely renovated and affords First-class Accommodation for Families and Gentlemen. Excellent Kitchen and Cellar. Reading Room with English and American Newspapers. Electric Light Baths in the House. French, German and English spoken. Omnibus meets all Trains and Steamers. Under English Management. Telegraphic Address: “ Angleterke, Petersburg.” TH. SCHOTTE, Manager. ST. PETERSBURG. TT cp YJt 'f TV T? TT'O A AT G T? XX X Jui Xix X-/X.51 X k?j vXjx * Kept by E. RENAULT. EST situation in the Town, Great Morskaia, right opposite the Winter Palace, Hermitage, Foreign Office and Nevski Prospect. Oldest Hotel. Tramways in all directions. Fashionably frequented, especially by English and Americans. Elegant Reading Room, with French, English, American, German, and Swedish Papers. Greatly to be recommended for its cleanliness, comfort, and superior cuisine. Dinners 1 r. 50 k. and 3r. The charge for Apartments is from 1 to 20 roubles. All languages spoken. Warm and Cold Baths. Post and Telephone on the Premises. The English Guide, Bernard Franke, highly com¬ mended. The Hotel is recommended in Murray's Handbook of Russia. The HOTEL BELLE VUE, opposite to HOTEL DE FRANCE, belongs to the same Proprietor. 40 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, STUTTGART. HOTJBIi <5fcTT.£&.RX> a !X?- Divert Entrance from the Railway Station. FINEST POSITION IN TOWN. SPLENDID NEW BUILDING. FIRST CLASS. 300 ROOMS. ELECTRIC LIGHT. CENTRAL HEATING. ELEVATORS. Rooms from 2*50 Marks upwards. H. & O. MARQUARDT. STUTTGART. HOTEL ROYAL. Opposite the station. 100 elegantly fur¬ nished rooms from M. 2 upwards. Elevator. Central Heating. Electric Light. A. BANZHAF, Proprietor. TUNIS. Grand Hotel de Paris. FIRST CLASS. FULL SOUTH. Patronised by English Families. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK TO SWITZERLAND. Part I.—SWITZERLAND without the PENNINE ALPS. With 16 Maps and Plans. 6s. 18th Edition. Part II.—The PENNINE ALPS, portions of the FRENCH and PIEDMONTESE ALPS, and the ITALIAN LAKES. With 12 Maps and Plans. 6s. 18th Edition. TAORMINA (Sicily), Italy. GKilNB HOTEL SAN DOMENICO. rPHE ONLY FIRST-CLASS ENGLISH FAMILY HOTEL. Situated Southward, with T Gaiden, Terraces, Lawn Tennis, Winter Garden. Ancient Hi torical convent, enjoying a full unrivalled view of the Panorama. Situated in the finest and most select part of Taormina. Views cf Etna and the Ionian Sea. French Cooking. Most comfortable. Arrange¬ ment for prolonged stay. Quite near the Post-Office and Telegraph. TOURS. GRAND HOTEL DE L’UNIVERS. ON THE BOULEVARD, NEAR THE STATION. IT 1.71-i O IP IT A TV REPUTATION. Highly recommended in all the French and Foreign Guide Books. EUGENE GUILLAUME, Proprietor. 1900. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 41 TOURS. GRAND HOTEL DE BORDEAUX, Proprietor, CLOVIS DELIGNOU. Patronised by His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, and the European Courts. IN FRONT OF THE STATION AND UPON THE BOULEVARD. SPLENDID APARTMENTS. TRENTO, SOUTH TYROL. IMPERIAL HOTEL TRENTO. First-class House, Great Comfort. Central Steam Heating, Electiic Light. Lawn Tennis Ground, Splendid position. Centre for Dolomites and Glaciers Excursions. Patronised by the Empress Frederick and English and American Gentry. Best place for breaking journey on the Brenner Line between Munich, Venice, or Rome. Spring and Autumn Season. F. J. OESTERREICHER, Proprietor. Branch House— Grand Hotel des Alpes, Madonna di Campiglio, the Tyrolese St. Moritz, 1553 Metres above the Sea. Season, June-October. Prospectus on Application. • BLACK FOREST. TRIBERG, 715 Metres above the Sea. * BCOTTEjL, wehrle. r. WEHRLE, Proprietor. Best situation, near the Waterfalls, for a long - time well known as HOTEL 25. 66 OCHSEN.” Every English comfort. Baths. Park Garden. Electric Light. Milk Cure. Omni¬ bus at the Station. Carriages. Moderate charges. Pension. Telephone. Concerts in trout of the Hotel. The proprietor gives best information for excursions in the Black Forest. The Hotel Wehrle, not very large, but very comfortable, is highly recom¬ mended by German and foreign Guide Books. 9 _ GOOD TROUT FISHING. _® TRIBERG. CENTRE OF THE BADENIAN BLACK FOREST. FIRST-CLASS CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORT. Louis Bieringers Schwarzwald Hotel (715 metres above the level of the sea.) FIRST-CLASS HOUSE, the only one in the immediate vicinity of the Waterfall and close to the Forest. Electric Light in all Rooms. Sale of Railway Tickets and dispatch of baggage in the Hotel. Omnibus at all Trains. Elegant Carriages for Excursions. Piichly assorted International Reading Room. Opening- of the Season, 1st of May. The wonderfully fine and quiet location of the Hotel, 40 metres ab<>ve the town, with full view on the Mountains, offers a very agreeable abode. Trout Fishing. LOUIS BIERINGER, Proprietor. Branch : HOTEL SOMMER, Badenweiler. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK TO NORTH ITALY & VENICE, Turin, Milan, The Italian Lakes, Verona, Padua, Venice, Bologna, Ravenna, Parma, Modena, Genoa, &c. With 34 Maps and Plans. 10s. 16th Edition. 42 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, TURIN i In View of the Central Station, Rue de Rome. First-class House in every respect. Very moderate charges. Railway Booking Office in the Hotel. Hydraulic Lift. Electric light throughout. Heated by hot-air stoves. A. BAGLIONI, Proprietor. Branch House— Grand Hofei d’ltalie, Bologna. YJHNXCE. HOTEL DE L’EUROPE FIRST-CLASS HOUSE. Situated in the best position on the Grand Caual. Magnificent view on the Lido, S. Giorgio, S. Maria della Salute. GREATLY IMPROVED. ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT THE HOUSE. LIFT. FEFFECT SANITA TION. Patronised by the most distinguished Families. MARSEILLE BROTHERS, Proprietor?. VENICE. Hotel d’ltalie Bauer. Near St. Mark's Square. On the Grand Canal. Facing the Church of St. Maria Salute. 250 ROOMS. ELECTRIC LIGHT. Office in. fclxo JE£otel. GRAND RESTAURANT BAUER CRUNWALD. Rendezvous of the Best Society. J. GRUNWALD, Sen., Proprietor. 1900. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 43 -w :c cs m: -sr, ON THE PARK FACING THE CASINO. v ^ <<> ^ A#/ / OPEN THE WHOLE YEAR. Wn«Ient|^ iTOBEAH&fo n jr ON THE PARK OPPOSITE KIOSQUE 0 MUSIC .A r*' 3% * ’3^^ CP 1 POST, TELE¬ GRAPH ■ AD¬ JOINING. TELEPHONE GRAND HOTEL DES AMBASSADEURS & CONTINENTAL. ROUBEAU &. COLLET, Proprietors. Entirely Re-arranged and considerably Enlarged. Is the most elegant, comfortable and best, situated in Vichy, and the only one frequented by the Boval Family of England. A part of the Hotel is arranged and warmed specially for the winter season. It is the only Hotel at Vichy having a general hygienic installation. _ LiTt. _^Pension from 12fr. per day. VICHY. GRAND HOTEL DU PARC son! OUANO HOTEL, THE LARGEST AND MOST COMFORTABLE IN VICHY. A FIKST-CLASS HOTEL, situated in the Park, facing the Baths, Springs, and Casino. private PflVmiopl pop FflmmiES. Hydropathic Installation. Electric Light, Lift. GERMOT, Proprietor. Vienna! HOTEL HAMMERAND. RENDEZVOUS OF ENGLISH AND AMERICAN DOCTORS. Lift. Near the Hospitals. Electric Light. VIENNA. HOTEL BELLEVUE. (Facing Franz Josefs Railway Station.) Family Hotel. Special Tariff for Commercial Travellers. 100 Elegant Rooms from one llorin. Light and Service will not be charged. Electric Light. LEOPOLD GARAI, Proprietor. 44 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, Collective Advertiser OF THE VIENNA. HOTELS IN VIFNNA. VIENNA. ARRANGED ALPHABETICALLY AND ACCORDING TO DISTRICTS. 1st District: The City. Bristol, Carl Wolf, Karnthnerring. Erzherzog Carl, Josef Schindler, Karnthnerst asse. de France, Anton Drexler, Scbottenring. Germania, Josef Pohl, Ferdinandsplatz. Goldene Ente, Carl Richard, Riemer- gasse. Grand Hotel, Actieuges "llschaft, Kiirn- thnerring. Habsburg, Dir. R. Oehler, Adlergasse. Imperial Frohner’s, Dir. G. v. Rilling, Karnthnerring. Kaiserin Elisabeth, Ferd. Heger, Weihburggasse. Klomser, F. Klomser, Herrengasse. Konig V. Ungarn, Ferd. Hess, Schuler- strasse. Krantz, Jos. Ivrantz, Neuer Markt. London, M. Lanz, Fleischmarkt. Matschakerhof, H. Mayreder, Seiler- gasse. Meissl & Sehadn, Dir. J. Briickler, Nener Vlarkt. Metropole, Actiengesellschaft, Dir. L. Speiser, Franz Josephs-Quai. Muller, Friedrich Hack, Graben. Residenz, Josef Zillinger, Teinfaltstrasse. Royal, Job. Riedl, Graben-Stefansplatz. Ungar. Krone, Franz Richer, Himmel- pfortgasse. Wandl, Ign. Dungl, Petersplatz. 2nd District: Leopoldstadt. Bayer. Hof, Joh. Riedl, 'I'aborstrasse. Central, Carl Sacher, Taborstrasse. Kronprinz, Leop. Seiler, Asperngasse. National- Grand Hotel, Dir. 0. Leliner, Taborstrasse. Nordbahn, Josef Scheiflinger, Prater- strasse. 3rd District: Landstrasse. Belvedere, M. Rosner, Landstrasser Giirtel. 4th District: Wieden. Goldenes Lamm, Jos. Ktihrer, Haupt- strasse. Siidbahn, Hans Kirchmayr, Favoviten- strasse. Triest, M. Gruber, Ilauptstrasse. 6th District: Mariahilf. Goldenes Kreuz, Josef Janetscbek, Marialiil i'erstrasse. 7th District: Neubau. Holler, Anna Bosse-Holler, Burggasse. 8th District: Josefstadt. Hammerand, E. Hammerand, Floriani- gasse. 9th District: Alsergrund. Bellevue, Dir. Leopold Garai, Althan- gasse. Franz - Josef-Bahn, A. Binderhofer, A lserbacbstrasse. 13th District: Hietzing-. Hietzinger Hof, Gustav Todt, Haupt- stras-se nScbst Schonbrunn. 15th District: Funfhaus. Fuchs,Heinrich Mayer, Mariahilferstrasse. Wimberger, K. Wimberger, Neubau- gUrtel. i 18th District: Wahring. Wieninger, A.Wieninger, Semperstrasse. ELECTRIC LIGHT, COFFEE ROOMS, RESTAURANT AND BATH IN EVERY HOTEL. A TARIFF IS AFFIXED IN THE ROOMS OF EVERY HOTEL IN VIENNA. NOTICE ! Please insist on arriving in Vienna upon being con- -^ ducted to the hotel chosen; if the latter should be full, it undertakes to recommend the traveller to another. 1900. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 45 VIENNA. Grand Hotel, I. KARNTHNERRING, 9. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Situated in the finest and most fashionable part of the City, on the Ringstrasse, Corso side, near the Imperial Opera, the new Museums. Highly recommended for moderate charges combined with all modern comfort; specially patronized by English and American families. 300 elegantly furnished Bed and Sitting Rooms, Magnificent lofty and richly decorated Dining and Reading Rooms, Smoking and Ladies’ Drawing Rooms. The prices of the rooms are including electric light and attendance. Tariff in every Room. Excellent Cooking; Luncheons and Dinners at fixed prices or a la Carte. Lift until 12 p.m. Baths, Telephone, Railway Ticket-Office and Hairdressing Saloon in the Hotel. Arrangements made with Families Wintering in Vienna. Bureau and Cabin Booking Office of the North German Lloyd in the Hotel. VIENNA. favoriteti.stras.se II., Vienna IV. Tjl LEC’TRIC LIGHT. Telephone No. 796. Tramway Station for all parts of the town. Near the Lj Oper and Sud State Railway Station. Favourite Family Hotel (considerably enlarged). Renowned for cleanliness and attentive service. Moderate terms. Large Restaurant with spiendid garden. Electric light and service will not he charged. Baths. Cook's coupons accepted. JOSEF HAAGEN. VIENNA. HOTEL METROPOLE. First-Class and best situated Hotel. Especially frequented by English and Americans. 300 ROOMS FROM 5 TO 25 KRONEN. Electric Light and Attendance Included. Hydraulic Lift. WIESBADEN. HOTEL ROSS ixnocl BATHS. T HIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, with every modern comfort, is newly enlarged by a splendid building, and situated in the finest and healthiest part of Wiesbaden, opposite the Pro¬ menade close to the Curhouse and Royal Theatre. Private Suites of Apartments consisting of Saloon, Bedroom, Toilet and Bath Kcom. In the Hotel is a beautiful new Bath House, with Baths supplied from the principal Spring—the Rockbrnnnen. Most elegant Public Rooms, Lilt, Electric Light, .Steam Heating. Arrangements made for a prolonged stay. H. HAEE FNER, Proprietor. WIESBADEN. SWAN HOTEL. Mineral Water direct from the principal Kocbbrunnen. Lift. Electric Light. W. NEUENDORFF, Proprietor. WIESBADEN. HOTEL BELLE VUE. Beautifully situated, opposite the Park. Well-known for its Comfort and Good Cuisine. Central Heating. Electric Light. Moderate Charges. Good Trout Fishing. PeDSion. VICTOR KI.EEBLATT, Proprietor. 46 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, WIESBADEN. HOTEL GUI SI SANA. Unrivalled position— PARK STRASSE— a hundred steps from the Kurhouse. A BEAUTIFUL FIRST-CLASS ESTABLISHMENT. The Only One in WIESBADEN on Elevated Ground. OFFERS HOME COMFORT TO ENGLISH & AMERICAN FAMILIES. LIFT. | ELECTRIC LIGHT. | GARDENS. SPLENDID MINERAL WATER BATHS. PENSION AT REASONABLE TERMS. Apply for Prospectus to toe Proprietor, F. ROSER. WILDBAD (Black Forest). HOTEL KLUMPP HYDRAULIC LIFTS TO EVERY FLOOR. THIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, with separate Breakfast, Reading, Lady’s and Conversation Rooms, as well as a Smoking Room. Large handsome Dining Saloon. An artificial garden over the river. Beautifully situated in connection with the Old and New Bath Buildings and Conversation House. Five minutes’ walk from the English Church, and in the imme¬ diate vicinity of the Park and Pump Room. Well known for its elegant and comfortable apartments. Good Cuisine and Wines, and deserves its wide - spread reputation as one of the best hotels on the Continent. Table d’hote. Restaurant. Correspondents of principal Banking Houses of London, New York, &c., for the payment of Circular Notes and Letters of Credit. OMNIBUS OF THE HOTEL ME ETS EVERY TRAIN. FINE PRIVATE CARRIAGES. Capital Trout Fishing in the River Enz. PAWN TENNIS AND CROQUET. Reduced Terms tor Rooms in May and September. EXCELLENT ACCOMMODATION. ZURICH-DOLDER §*£££ Finest situated Hotel in Zurich. Newly opened wixir Latest Improvements of Comfort. Burro unde. by Magnificent Woods and Parks FINEST GOLF LINKS ON THE CONTINENT. Mail Coach. Tennis. Golf. ASK FOR TARIFF— E. DEILMANN, Manager. 1900. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 47 SWITZERLAND (ZERMATT). VIEGE-ZERPTT RflILfflftYS GO.’S And Zermatt Gornergrat Electric ( 10,170 feet ) NARROW GAUGE COG WHEEL RAILWAYS. Open from 15th May to 31st October. Matterhorn, 14,100 feet. Mont Rosa, 15,200 feet. Goerner Grat, 10,250 feet. These lines are the most interesting and picturesque in the world. The journey from Viege to Zermatt now only takes 24 - hours and l-£ hours from Zermatt to Gornergrat; formerly it was a 9 hours walk to Zermatt. Very comfortable Carriages. Special Saloon Carriages to enable one to see the Grand Scenery along the line. For departure of the Trains see the Time Table. ZERMATT. Seiler’s Grand Hotels. HOTEL MONT ROSA. HOTEL MONT CERVIN. HOTEL ZERMATT. HOTEL RIFFELALP. HOTEL RIFFEL. HOTEL SCHWARZ SEE. Buffet at the Station. Doctor. Chemist. Baths. Moderate Prices. OPEN FROM 1st MAY TO 30th OCTOBER. 48 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 1900. ZERMATT. GRAND HOTEL TERMINUS. T/TRST-CLASS HOTEL with every modern comfort. Baths. Electric Light. Restaurant. i 1 Table d’hote. Billiards. Cafe. Reading and Drawing Booms. Covered Verandah. Guides. Carriages and Mules at the Hotel. Coupons accepted. Open from 15ta May to 30th October. DOL-LAUBER, Proprietor. DINNEFORO’S MAGNESIA. The best Remedy for Acidity of the Stomach, Heartburn, Headache, Gout and Indigestion; the Safest Aperient for Delicate Constitutions, Ladies, Children, and Infants. SOLD THROUGHOUT THE WORLD. MURRAY’S Pocket Handbook OF Travel Talk. ENGLISH, FRENCH, GERMAN, and ITALIAN. (In Parallel Columns.) EIGHTEENTH EDITION. With Special Section for Cyclists. 32mo., 3s. 6d. S'S vV>./W'/\/v ' » 1/ . / VN/vyVvVvVV The Conversations supply every Modern Phrase likely to be used by Travellers at the Present Day. “ One of the most useful pocket companions.”— Vanity Fair. “ Shows the wanderer liow to carry on conversation in all the essential arts of life in four tongues .”—Daily News. “A cyclist who can ascertain whether the road is ‘bumpy,’ or point out that his ‘nut’ is loose or his ‘tyre punctured,’ may surely regard himself as equipped for every linguistic emergency.”— Guardian. “ The best of its kind, judiciously modernized.”— Athenxum. “ One of the most useful phrase books in existence.”— Queen. A Neat Convenient Book suitable for carrying in One’s Pocket. Loni on : JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street, W. MURRAY'S ENGLISH HANDBOOKS. HANDBOOK — ENVIRONS OF LONDON—Including 20 miles round the Metropolis. Two Volumes. Post 8vo. 21s. HANDBOOK—ENGLAND AND WALES. Arranged alphabetically. Map. One Volume. Post 8vo. 12s. HANDBOOK — EASTERN COUNTIES — Chelmsford, Harwich, Col¬ chester, Maldon, Cambridge, Ely, Newmarket, Bury St. Edmunds, Ipswich, Woodbridge, Felixstowe, Lowestoft, Norwich, Yarmouth, Cromer, &o. Maps and Plans. Post Svo. 12s. HANDBOOK — KENT — Canterbury, Dover, Ramsgate, Rochester, Chatham. Map and Plans. Post 8vo. 7s. 6d. HANDBOOK—SUSSEX—Brighton, Chichester, Worthing, Hastings, Lewes, Arundel. Map and Plan. Post Svo. 6s. HANDBOOK—SURREY (Including Aldershot) — Kingston, Croydon, Reigate, Guildford, Dorking, Boxhill. Maps and Plans. Post 8vo. 6s. HANDBOOK—HANTS—Winchester, Southampton, New Forest, Ports¬ mouth. Maps. Post Svo. 6s. HANDBOOK—ISLE OF WIGHT—Ryde, Cowes, Ventnor, &c. Map. Post Svo. 2s. 6 d. HANDBOOK — HERTS, BEDS, AND HUNTINGDON. Map and Plans. Post 8vo. 7s. 6d. HANDBOOK—OXFORDSHIRE—Oxford, Blenheim, Henley, and The Thames. Map and Plans. Post 8vo. 6s. HANDBOOK — WILTS AND DORSET. With Maps and Plans. Post 8vo. 6s. HANDBOOK—SOMERSET. With Maps and Plans. Post Svo. 6s. HANDBOOK—DEVON — Exeter, Ilfracombe, Linton, Sidmouih, Dawlish, Teignmouth, Plymouth, Devonport, Torquay. Maps and Plans. Post Svo. 7s. 6ci. HANDBOOK—CORNWALL — Launceston, Penzance, Falmouth, The Lizard, Land’s End, &c. Maps and Plans. Post 8vo. 6s. HANDBOOK — HEREFORD AND WORCESTER — Ross, The Wye, Malvern, Kidderminster, Dudley, Bromsgrove, Evesham. Map and Plans. Post Svo. 5s. HANDBOOK—GLOUCESTERSHIRE—Gloucester, Cheltenham, Ciren¬ cester, Bristol, Tewkesbury, Evesham, &c. Maps and Plans. Post 8vo. 6s. HANDBOOK — NORTH WALES — Llangollen, Bangor, Carnarvon, Beaumaris, Snowdon, Llanberis, Dolgelly, Cader Idris, Bettws-y-Coed, Conway, &c. Map. Post 8vo. 6s. HANDBOOK—SOUTH WALES—Monmouth, Llandaff, Merthyr, Vale of Neath, Pembroke, Carmarthen, Tenby, Swansea, and The Wye, &c. Map. Post Svo. 6s. HANDBOOK —DERBY, NOTTS, LEICESTER, & STAFFORD—Matlock, Bakewell, Chatsworth, The Peak, Buxton, Dovedale, Southwell, Bur¬ ton, Bklvoir, Melton Mowbray, Wolverhampton, Lichfield, Walsall, Tamworth. Maps and Plans. Post Svo. 9s. HANDBOOK—SHROPSHIRE AND CHESHIRE—Shrewsbury, Ludlow, Bridgnorth, Oswestry, Chester, Crewe, Alderley, Stockpof.t, Birken¬ head. Map. Post Svo. 6s. June, 1899. [Continued. MURRAY'S ENGL HANDBOOK—LANCASHIRE- pool, Burnley, Clitheroe, Lancaster, Southfort, Bla HANDBOOK—YORKSHIRE—I borough, Whitby, Harrogai Huddersfield, Sheffield, C Plans. Post Svo. 12s. HANDBOOK — LINCOLNSH Sleaford, Spalding, Gain. c Post8vo. 7s. Cxi. HANDBOOK—DURHAM ANI RARE BOOK COLLECTION lington, Bishop Auckland, Berwick, Tynemouth, Aln HANDBOOK—WESTMOREL^ ness Abbey, Ambleside, Kei Ulswater, Carlisle, Cockei HANDBOOK—WAR W ICIvSH THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF NORTH CAROLINA AT CHAPEL HILL HANDBOOK-SCOTLAND—*] Dumfries, Galloway, Ayr Loch Lomond, Loch Katri Perth, Dundee, Aberdeei land. Maps and Plans. P HANDBOOK—IRELAND—D Cork, Limerick, Waterfo Plans. Post Svo. 9s. Murray 1525 MURRAY’S CYCLIST’S ROAD-Buua, frojTXGNDOX through lhichestek, Portsmouth, Southampton, to the New Forest, and back by Romsey, Win¬ chester, Dorking, Leatherhead, and Epsom. Illustrated by a Road Atlas at the end of the Book. Fcap. Svo, 2s. ENGLISH CATHEDRALS. HANDBOOK — SOUTHERN CATHEDRALS — Winchester, Salisbury, Exeter, Wells, Rochester, Canterbury, Chichester, and St. Albans. With 130 Illustrations. 2 vols. Crown Svo. 36s. *** St. Albans may be had separately. 6s. HANDBOOK—EASTERN CATHEDRALS — Oxford, Peterborough, Ely, Norwich, and Lincoln. With 90 Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 21s. HANDBOOK—WESTERN CATHEDRALS — Bristol, Gloucester, Here¬ ford, Worcester, and Lichfield. With 50 Illustrations. Crown Svo. 16s. HANDBOOK—WELSH CATHEDRALS —Llandaff, St. David’s, Bangor, and St. Asaph’s. With Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 15s. HANDBOOK—ST. PAUL’S CATHEDRAL. Woodcuts. Crown 8vo. 10s. 6^. JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. June, 1899.