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PERSONAL NARRATIVE 
 
 
 EXPLORATIONS AND INCIDENTS 
 
 TEXAS, NEW MEXICO, CALIFORNIA, SONORA, 
 AND CHIHUAHUA, 
 
 CONNECTED WITH 
 
 THE UNITED STATES AND MEXICAN BOUNDARY COMMISSION 
 DURING THE TEARS 1850, '51, '52, AND '53. 
 
 BY 
 
 JOHN RUSSELL BARTLETT, 
 
 UNITED STATES COMMISSIONER DURING THAT PERIOD. 
 
 WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS, 
 TWO VOLUMES COMPLETE IN ONE. 
 
 NEW YORK : 
 
 D. APPLETON & COMPANY, 346 & 348 BKOADWAY, 
 
 AND 16 LITTLE BRITAIN, LONDON. 
 
 M.DCCC.LVI. 
 
 ry 
 
Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1854, by 
 
 D. APPLETON & COMPANY, 
 
 In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern "District of 
 
 New York. 
 
«E5Si» 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 In submitting to the public an account of my explora- 
 tions during the several years that I filled the place 
 of Commissioner on the part of the United States, for 
 the Survey of the Boundary between the United 
 States and Mexico, I have endeavored as far as pos- 
 sible to confine myself strictly to what is embraced in 
 the title, viz., a Personal Narrative of Explorations 
 and Incidents. 
 
 Having this idea constantly before me, I have 
 admitted only such digressions as seemed absolutely 
 necessary for a full understanding of the subject. 
 Short descriptions of the towns visited have been 
 given, as well as general remarks on the country from 
 time to time. So of the botany and zoology, I have 
 endeavored to keep before the reader a correct idea 
 of the character of the country throughout which he 
 
 
IV PREFACE. 
 
 was to follow ine, without lists and descriptions, scien- 
 tific or otherwise, of every plant, quadruped, bird, and 
 reptile that came in my way. 
 
 As an itinerary giving an accurate description of 
 the country from the shores of the Atlantic to the 
 Pacific — of every day's journey — of every stream, lake, 
 pond, or spring — of all the mountain chains and their 
 defiles — of every plain and desert — of the towns, vil- 
 lages, houses, ranchos, and farms where the traveller 
 may obtain supplies — of spots where he may find grass 
 for his animals, and where he can find none — of districts 
 destitute of wood and water — I have endeavored to 
 make it particular and accurate, in order that my book 
 may become a useful guide to emigrants and other 
 travellers. A vast deal of suffering may be saved by 
 placing in the hands of emigrating parties a guide 
 across the country to the golden regions of California, 
 whither so many are now annually wending. The 
 time is not far distant, either, when crowds as large as 
 those now pressing on to California and Australia will 
 be "prospecting" among the mountains of Texas, 
 New Mexico, Chihuahua, and Sonora, attracted by 
 similarly rich mineral deposits, and probably with the 
 like splendid success. This will not be the result of 
 an accidental discovery, as was the gold in the mill- 
 race near the Sacramento ; for the existence of such 
 treasures is already known, as well as the localities 
 where they are to be found. My journeys through 
 
PREFACE. V 
 
 Sonora, Chihuahua, aud other Mexican States, are given 
 with much detail on the topics mentioned ; which I fear 
 will render this itinerary dry to many, although to 
 others it will give the book its chief value. 
 
 I have divided my narrative into distinct journeys, 
 each complete in itself. The first is from Indianola, 
 on the coast of Texas, where the Commission disem- 
 barked, via San Antonio and the northern route (not 
 now travelled), to El Paso del Norte, about 850 miles. 
 A second to the Copper Mines of New Mexico, in the 
 Rocky Mountains near the Rio Gila, with a residence 
 there of several months. A third to the interior of 
 Sonora, and back. A fourth from the Copper Mines 
 along the boundary line south of the Gila to the Rio 
 San Pedro, and thence through another portion of 
 Sonora to Guaymas on the Gulf of California. Fifth, 
 a voyage from Guaymas to Mazatlan and Acapulco, 
 and thence to San Diego, and San Francisco. Sixth, 
 various journeys in California. Seventh, a journey 
 from San Diego, by the Colorado and Gila rivers, to 
 El Paso del Norte. And lastly, a journey through the 
 States of Chihuahua, Durango, Zacatecas, New Leon, 
 Tamaulipas, and the south-western corner of Texas, to 
 Corpus Christi on the Gulf of Mexico. These several 
 journeys embrace an extent of nearly 5,000 miles by 
 land. 
 
 With reference to the aboriginal tribes, I have 
 described with minuteness only those with which I 
 
vi PREFACE. 
 
 remained some time, and whose habits I had a good 
 opportunity to study. I have also incidentally spoken 
 of the tribes through whose countries I passed, without 
 entering into any detail. This subject is so extensive, 
 and requires so much study, that it can be done justice 
 to only by being treated as a whole. I was so fortunate 
 as to obtain vocabularies of more than twenty aborigi- 
 nal languages, many of which had never been taken 
 down before, and none so fully, as by me. These valu- 
 able testimonials of the now fast disappearing red race 
 who preceded us in the possession of our country, I 
 consider among the most important of my collections, 
 and as such, I believe they will be esteemed by the 
 learned. They each embrace two hundred words, and, 
 with but two or three exceptions, were all taken down 
 by myself, with great care, and according to one system. 
 My further ethnological collections embrace, por- 
 traits of many of these tribes, both male and female, 
 showing the characteristic features of each. Sketches 
 were also taken which exhibit their manners and cus- 
 toms, their arts, husbandry, etc. It is my desire to 
 prepare a report on the ethnology of the Indian tribes 
 of the extensive region explored by the Boundary 
 Commission, should the government feel sufficient 
 interest in the subject to authorize it. Without the 
 aid of government, I shall be compelled to limit my- 
 self to a brief memoir, embracing merely my philologi- 
 cal collections. 
 
PEEFACE. Vll 
 
 From the time of the Commission's landing at 
 Indianola, during the whole period of its continuance, 
 every opportunity that offered, without interfering 
 with the direct. object had in charge, was improved 
 for the purpose of making explorations, and forming 
 collections in various departments of natural science. 
 
 In the department of Botany four gentlemen were 
 employed in making collections. Dr. J. M. Bigelow, 
 Surgeon of the Commission, and Mr. George Thurber, 
 who was most of the time connected with the Quarter- 
 master and Commissary Departments, in addition to 
 their other duties, examined the botany of the region 
 respectively passed over by them, and made very large 
 collections of plants — the latter over a country extend- 
 ing from the Gulf of Mexico across the continent to 
 the Pacific Ocean. Mr. Thurber, who accompanied 
 me in most of my journeys, was indefatigable in his 
 exertions to make thorough examinations and complete 
 collections of every thing belonging to his department, 
 notwithstanding the numerous obstacles he had to 
 encounter. He, in addition, formed an extensive 
 herbarium, embracing plants, etc., collected in the 
 various States of the republic of Mexico visited by us. 
 Two other botanists, Dr. C. C. Parry and Mr. Charles 
 Wright, have also made large collections. The former 
 was connected with the surveying parties under the 
 immediate direction of Major Emory, and did not 
 accompany me, so that I am unable to speak from per- 
 
Vlll PREFACE. 
 
 sonal knowledge of his labors; but from his well 
 known reputation, as well as that of Mr. Wright, I 
 doubt not they have accomplished much. It is to be 
 hoped that the government will place a proper estimate 
 on the labors of these several gentlemen ; and I feel 
 confidence in saying that when they are made known, 
 they will reflect great credit upon them, and furnish 
 important accessions to science. 
 
 In Zoology our collections are large, and embrace 
 many new species. The collectors in this department 
 were Mr. J. H. Clark, Mr. Arthur Schott, and Dr. 
 Thomas H. Webb. As these collections are unfortu- 
 nately scattered, one portion being in the Smithsonian 
 Institution and another in Boston, I am unable to speak 
 with precision of their extent. Of the first collection 
 sent home by Mr. Clark in the spring of 1852, the 
 naturalists connected with the Smithsonian Institution, 
 Professors Baird and Girard, remark that, " It will be 
 perfectly safe to say that one hundred undescribed 
 species of North American vertebrate animals have 
 been added to our fauna. The entire annals of 
 zoological history scarcely present a parallel to this 
 case." Since that time other collections have been 
 received by the same institution. It is to be hoped 
 that this large and valuable accession to the zoology 
 of the North American continent may be properly 
 appreciated by our government, and that the distin- 
 guished naturalists now engaged in describing the 
 
PREFACE. IX 
 
 specimens, may be authorized to present them to the 
 scientific world in such a stylp and form as their value 
 and interest merit. 
 
 From the peculiar geological features of the coun- 
 try passed over, a valuable report on that subject 
 might be expected; but I regret that, as Congress 
 denied me an appropriation for the purpose, I was 
 unable to secure the services of any geologist compe- 
 tent to make such investigations as were desirable. 
 Several gentlemen who filled responsible places, par- 
 ticularly Dr. Webb, Secretary of the Joint Commission, 
 contributed their services in collecting such minera- 
 logical specimens as circumstances would allow. It 
 was highly desirable to institute a continuous series 
 of geological and mineralogical researches, and to form 
 a cabinet illustrative of the structure and mineral 
 resources of the region along the whole course of the 
 survey ; but both the scientific corps, and the number of 
 soldiers at my disposal for the purpose of escort, were 
 too small to admit of this being done. Notwithstand- 
 ing, however, every drawback, a large collection of 
 minerals was made by Dr. Webb, including silver ores 
 from New Mexico and Chihuahua, and other ores from 
 various places along the line, which have reached home 
 in safety. Among these mineralogical treasures is a 
 fine specimen of bituminous coal. In connection with 
 this subject I may add, that we visited and explored 
 many of the mines in New Mexico, Sonora, Chihuahua, 
 
X PREFACE. 
 
 and California, of gold, silver, copper, and quicksilver, 
 and obtained specimens of the ores ; besides which 
 much valuable information was collected in reference 
 to the extent, value, and productions of these mines. 
 
 I should do injustice to our accomplished artist and 
 draughtsman, Mr. Henry C. Pratt, who accompanied 
 me in my journeys to and from California, did I not 
 speak of his valuable services. Besides the portraits 
 of the Indian tribes and illustrations of their manners 
 and customs, Mr. Pratt has made a series of many 
 hundred sketches, representing the peculiar character 
 of the* country extending from ocean to ocean along 
 the boundary line, and in the States contiguous. 
 Many of these sketches are panoramic views embracing 
 wide districts of country, and convey to the mind a 
 better idea of it than the most elaborate description. 
 I have, therefore, very reluctantly been compelled to 
 omit the most important of them from the present 
 work, as it would detract too much from their merits 
 to reduce them to the size of an octavo page. 
 
 There is another topic, one too, which possesses a 
 deeper interest for the American people and the whole 
 civilized world, than those to which I have alluded. 
 This is the adaptation of the country explored by the 
 Boundary Commission for the "purposes of a railway. 
 The descriptions of the country given in our daily 
 marches will convey some idea of the advantages pre- 
 sented ; but without the large sketches mentioned, 
 
PREFACE. XI 
 
 barometrical profiles, and elaborate maps, I could not 
 do justice to the subject. In the extensive journeys 
 of the Commission through Texas to the shores of the 
 Pacific, by the route south of the river Gila, I was 
 enabled, with the assistance of the engineers intrusted 
 with the survey of this portion of the line, to collect 
 much valuable information on the topography of the 
 country, for the purpose of enabling the public to 
 judge whether or not it is practicable to construct a 
 railway there. It is to be hoped that Congress will see 
 fit to lay this information, obtained with so much toil 
 and expense, in a suitable manner before the people. 
 
 The maps of the survey, as well as the astronomi- 
 cal, magnetic, and meteorological observations, with 
 all that strictly appertains to the running and mark- 
 ing of the boundary line, were, by the instructions of 
 the Secretary of the Interior, placed in charge of the 
 surveyor, Brevet Major W. H. Emory, who alone is 
 held responsible for the faithful performance of these 
 duties. From the high character of that officer as an 
 engineer, the public may expect, in proper season, a 
 satisfactory account of his labors in these departments. 
 Some time must elapse before the maps to illustrate the 
 whole Boundary, from one ocean to the other, can be 
 completed ; I have therefore been compelled to con- 
 struct meanwhile the map prefixed to this work from 
 my own itinerary and from the most authentic informa- 
 tion that could be obtained. 
 
Xll PREFACE. 
 
 The question has been repeatedly asked, and may- 
 be asked again, why the account of the doings of the 
 Commission embraced in this narrative was not pub- 
 lished by the government, alike with other reports of 
 explorations made by its officers. In reply J have to 
 state that, on my return home, after being superseded 
 as Commissioner, I was desirous to submit my report 
 to the Secretary of the Interior, for publication under 
 his direction. To effect this a resolution was offered 
 in the Senate by one of its distinguished members, 
 General Houston of Texas, who takes a lively interest 
 in the promotion of science, and particularly in the 
 investigation of the unexplored regions of our country, 
 to authorize me to prepare and publish a full Report 
 of the labors of the Commission while under my charge, 
 including the Natural History, in which so much had 
 been accomplished. The efforts of the learned Senator 
 however were unsuccessful, and the resolution was laid 
 on the table. This decision, a source of lively regret 
 to me, I trust is not to be regarded as final; and I 
 cherish the hope that Congress will yet decide to place 
 the whole results of the Commission before the public 
 in a suitable manner. 
 
CONTENTS OF FIRST VOLUME 
 
 FIRST DIVISION. 
 
 NEW-YORK TO EL PASO, THROUGH TEXAS. 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 NEW-YORK TO INDIANOLA. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Treaty of Peace between the United States and Mexico — Hon. J. B, Wel- 
 ler appointed Commissioner to run the new Boundary Line between 
 the two Republics — Determines the initial point on the Pacific and the 
 centre of the mouth of the Gila — Col. J. C. Fremont's Appointment and 
 Resignation — J. R. Bartlett appointed Commissioner — Fitting out and 
 Organization of the Expedition — Embarcation of main body of Commis- 
 sion from New- York — Embarcation of Commissioner and others — 
 Water-Spouts — Havana — New Orleans — Arrival at Indianola. ... 1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 INDIANOLA TO SAN ANTONIO. 
 
 Preparations for the Start — Breaking mules — La Salle and its early His- 
 tory — Prosperity of Indianola — Commencement of Survey — Route to 
 Victoria — Shoeing mules — Encampment in grove — Military drilling — 
 Flourishing condition of Victoria — Primitive legal proceedings — Diffi- 
 culties of navigating Espiritu Santo Bay — Description of surrounding 
 country — Mexican ranch o — Observance of the Sabbath — Justice dispen- 
 sed in the matter of a calf — Goliad, its early history and ruins — Mas- 
 sacre of prisoners after the battle of Perdida Creek — Leave Goliad — 
 Murder of a Mexican by a teamster — Arrival at San Antonio — Another 
 murder — Preparations for crossing the Plains — Description of San An- 
 tonia — Alamo— Mission Churches 10 
 
XIV CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 SAN ANTONIO TO FREDERICKSBURG. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Advanced party formed for the journey to El Paso — Arms and equipments 
 — Mode of travel — General order — Storm on the Prairie — Guadalupe 
 river — Refinement among the German settlers on its banks — Terraced 
 hills of Texas — Mormons in the valley of the Piedernales — Fredericks- 
 burg 46 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 FREDERICKSBURG TO HORSE-HEAD CROSSING. 
 
 Projected route through the -wilderness — Setting out — Uninviting appear- 
 ance of the country — Precarious condition of German settlements on 
 the Llano River — Leave the Emigrants' Road — Crossing of the San 
 Saba — Community of prairie dogs — Kickapoo Creek — Hints to future 
 travellers — The Mezquit — Visit of Lipan Chiefs — Indian dexterity in 
 mule catching — Regain the Emigrant Road at Concho River — Horse 
 wounded by a rattlesnake — Character of country and vegetation — Mus- 
 tang roads — Scarcity of water — Prairie on fire — Deceptive maps — Cas- 
 tle Mountains — Stray cattle captured — Pecos River — Chapporal — "In- 
 dian sign." 61 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 HORSE-HEAD CROSSING TO DELAWARE CREEK. 
 
 Crossing of the Pecos — Narrow escape from a cold bath — Desolate region 
 — Prize oxen — Stray mule — Populous biscuit — Toyah Creek — Travel- 
 lers' tokens — Rescue of lost mule — Dreariness and monotony of the 
 Pecos — A horse's somerset — Delaware Creek — Snow-storm, sport, and 
 Erman's Siberia — Mr. Thurber and others dispatched to El Paso — Let- 
 ter to Major Van Home 96 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 DELAWARE CREEK TO EL PASO. 
 
 Difficulty of proceeding — Set out with a small party in advance — View 
 of Guadalupe Mountain — Boiling Spring — Deceptive clearness of the 
 atmosphere — Guadalupe Pass — Descent to the plain — Meet Mr. Coon's 
 train — Hospitality — Mr. Thurber's note — Take leave of the train — 
 Cornudos del Alamo — Thome's Well — Ojos del Alamo^Waco Moun- 
 tain Pass — Waco Tanks — Meet Messrs. Thurber and Weems on their 
 return — Arrival at El Paso — Itinerary of route — Remarks on the coun- 
 try traversed — IU adaptability to a public road 115 
 
CONTENTS. XV 
 
 SECOND DIVISION. 
 
 EL PASO TO THE COPPER MINES. 
 CHAPTER VIL 
 
 EVENTS AT EL PASO. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Losses of Animals — High price of provisions at El Paso — Excursion up the 
 river — Entertainment given to the officers of the Commission by the 
 civil authorities — The Bishop of Durango — Pueblo Indians — Meeting 
 with General Conde, and commencement of the labors of the Joint Com- 
 mission — Arrival and disposition of the main body of the United States 
 Commission — Arrival of ox-train, and death of IT. D. Wakeman — De- 
 parture of military escort for the Copper Mines — American despera- 
 does in New Mexico — Death of E. C. Clarke — Trial and execution of 
 Wade, Craig, and Butler — Trial and execution of Young — Dinner and 
 ball given under difficulties— Excursion to the Sierra Waco — Indian 
 pictures at the Waco Tanks — Initial Point agreed upon, and Survey in 
 its vicinity commenced — Depot established at the Copper Mines — Dr. 
 Webb's report on the same 143 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 EL PASO AND VALLEY OF THE RIO GRANDE. 
 
 Early colonization of Mexico — Position of El Paso — Mode of irrigation — 
 Agricultural productions — Vegetables — Fruits — Extensive culture of 
 the grape — Wine — Brandy — The Rio Grande — Deficiency of water — 
 Uncertainty of crops — Houses — How built — Oriental style preserved 
 — Primitive mode of life — Flour mills — Degeneracy of people — Dress 
 —Settlement on the American side — Coon's Ranch — Magoffinsville — 
 Socorro — San Eleazario — Mountain chains — Plants — Current and sinu- 
 osity of the Rio Grande 182 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 EL PASO TO THE COPPER MINES. 
 
 Observations on the Rio Grande, from El Paso to Dona Ana — Establish- 
 ment of the Initial Point, and ceremonies connected therewith — Descrip- 
 tion of Dona Ana — Mesilla — Route to Santa Barbara — Visit to ruins — 
 
XVI CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Mirage — Route to the River Mimbres — Luxuriant vegetation on its 
 banks — "Giant of the Mimbres" — Ojo Caliente — A broken arm — Arri- 
 val at the Copper Mines — Description and history of the Mines — Value 
 of the timber in the vicinity — Abundance of game — Scarcity of vegeta- 
 bles — Visit to Sonora projected 191 
 
 THIRD DIVISION. 
 
 JOURNEYS AND INCIDENTS IN SONOEA. 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 THE COPPER MINES TO AGUA PIUETA. 
 
 spring at Pachetehu — Ojo de Vaca — Janos road — Col. Cooke's road— - 
 Scarcity of water — Dry bed of a lake — Mirage — Desert region — Zoo- 
 logy of the plains — Guadalupe Pass — Difficulties — Bears — Discover foot- 
 prints of deserters from Copper Mines — Sycamore trees — Canon — Lux- 
 uriant vegetation — Descend from the great plateau — Change of climate 
 — Ruined hacienda of San Bernardino — Wild cattle — Black "Water 
 Creek — Teamster attacked by a bull — Grave of an American deserter. 241 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 AGUA PRIETA TO ARISPE. 
 
 Leave the California road — Agua Prieta — Send party to look for Fronte- 
 ras — Mexican soldiers sent to guide us in — Journey resumed — Strike 
 a rich valley — Break a wagon — Reach Fronteras — Description of the 
 place — Abandoned by its people andrecolonized — General Carrasco — ■ 
 Couriers between the frontier posts — Attack by General Carrasco on 
 Apaches at Janos — Campaign against the Apaches— General Carrasco's 
 opinion of American officers — The Doctor beset by the sick — Leave 
 Fronteras — Coquiarachi — Valley of Barbari— Wild turkeys — Mountain 
 Pass — Gold Mine — Bacuachi — Sonora River — Magnificent canon — Chi- 
 napi — Curious sandstone formation — Arrival at Arispe 261 
 
CONTENTS. XV11 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 FROM AEISPE BACK TO THE COPPER MINES. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Description ef Arispe — Primitive church service — Scarcity of grain and 
 fruit, and abundance of vegetables — Set out on our return — Broken 
 down wagon abandoned — Reach Fronteras — A blacksmith's indepen- 
 dence — Celebration of a Saint's day — Manufacture of aguardiente — 
 Various uses of the Maguay — Doctor's fees — Broken wagon metamor- 
 phosed into a cart — Sorry plight of a wild bull— Strike Cooke's road — 
 Traces of fire in the Guadalupe Pass — Mexican encampment — Story of 
 Americans attacked by Apaches — Reach the Copper Mines — Colonel 
 Graham not arrived — Visit General Conde's camp, and consult with 
 Lieutenant "Whipple — Return to the Copper Mines 282 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 INCIDENTS AT THE COPPER MINES. 
 
 Visit from th^e Apaches — Mangus Colorado — Arrival of Mr. Sanford — 11th 
 Article of the Treaty relating to captives — Arrest of New Mexican 
 traders — Inez Gonzales, the Mexican captive — Examination of traders — 
 Story of the captive girl — Pinalenos Indians — General Cond6 arrives — 
 The 11th Article of the Treaty enforced — Friendly intercourse with the 
 Indians — Two Mexican boys taken from them — Excitement in conse- 
 quence — Conference and dialogue with the Apache chiefs — Amicable 
 settlement of difficulties 300 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 INCIDENTS AT THE COPPER MINES. 
 
 Intercourse with the Apaches — Mangus Colorado and his new clothes — 
 Proper mode of treating Indians — Treachery and massacre of Indians 
 by an Englishman — Tribe of Copper Mine Apaches — Their numbers — 
 Extent of their incursions — Ethnological position — Inferiority of the 
 tribe — Dress — Visit from the Navajos — Their fine blankets — An Apa- 
 che shot by a Mexican — Alarm — Arrest and examination of prisoner — 
 Death of the Indian — The murderer demanded by the Apaches — Con- 
 ference with the Chiefs, and their talk — Restoration of friendship. . .319 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 INCIDENTS AT THE COPPER MINES. 
 
 Arrival of Mr. A. B. Gray — Meeting of Joint Commission — Objections of 
 Mr. Gray to Initial Point — Mules missing — Arrival of Colonel Graham 
 
XV111 CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 — Mules stolen from Frontera — Descent of the Apaches on the mule 
 herd — Organization of parties for the Survey — Application to Colonel 
 Sumner for more troops — Hostile attitude of the Indians — Second in- 
 cursion of the Indians — Mules taken — Colonel Craig goes in pursuit — 
 Arrival of Captain Buford with dragoons to our aid — Indians pursued 
 by Colonel Craig and Captain Buford — Third incursion of the Indians 
 — Volunteer party go in pursuit — Indians overtaken and cattle recov- 
 ered — Apache chief recognised among the robbers — Determine to set 
 out for the Gila 340 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 THE COPPER MINES TO EIO SAN PEDRO. 
 
 Organization of parties for the survey of the Gila — Leave the Copper 
 Mines — Pack-mules — Mode of packing — Ojo de Vaca — Camp in the 
 Burro Mountains — Ojo de Inez — Grizzly bear — Violent rain — Heavy 
 travelling — La Piloncillo, or Sugar-loaf Mountain — Broad plain — Camp 
 at El Sauce — Man missing — Camp in the Chiricahui Mountains^-Boggy 
 road — "Want of water — Dry lake — Reach the Mexican camp — Meeting 
 of the Joint Commission — Mr. Gray's objection to the boundary — March 
 resumed — Mules abandoned — Reach San Pedro River — Its character. 355 
 
 CHAPTER XVIL 
 
 RIO SAN PEDRO TO SANTA CRUZ. 
 
 The valley of the San Pedro — Decide on going to Santa Cruz for provisions 
 and mules — Departure of General Conde — Leave the San Pedro — Take 
 the trail of the Mexicans — Deserted Indian village — Leave the trail — 
 Wild horses — Santa Rita Mountain — Beautiful valley — Progress arrest- 
 ed—Critical situation — Mr. Thurber goes in search of Santa Cruz- 
 Arrival of Colonel Graham — Ruined hacienda of Calabasa — Wild 
 scenery — On short allowance — Return of Mr. Thurber — Retrace our 
 steps towards the San Pedro — Mustangs — Camp on the Babocomori — 
 Arrival of Mexican soldiers — General Conde loses his way — Sufferings 
 of his party — Mexicans hunting cattle on the San Pedro — The father 
 and friends of Inez Gonzales arrive — Set out again for Santa Cruz — 
 Meeting of the captive girl and her mother — Arrival at Santa Cruz, . 379 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 SANTA CRUZ TO LA MAGDALENA. 
 
 Account of the missing parties — Description of Santa Cruz, and its popu- 
 lation — Departure of Colonel Graham — Set out for La Magdalena — In- 
 
CONTENTS. XIX 
 
 crease of party — San Lazaro — Cocospera — Its beautiful valley — The 
 canon where Inez Gonzales was taken — First sight of the Cereus Gigan- 
 teus — Babasaqui — Wild cattle — Imuris — Terrenati — San Ignacio and its 
 church — Abundance of pomegranates — Passports demanded — Proceed 
 to Magdalena — Summoned before the Alcalde — Legend of the origin of 
 the town — Festival of San Francisco — Religious devotees — OiFerings 
 to the Saint — Consecration of ribbons — Booths — Gambling — Perpetual 
 fandango — Vegetable productions near the town — Fine scenery — Grand 
 torchlight procession — Close of the festivities — Description of La Magda- 
 lena. • 406 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 ILLNESS AND DETENTION AT URES. 
 
 Leave La Magdalena — Taken ill — Diary breaks off — Sufferings on the road 
 — Reach Ures — Poor quarters — Dr. "Webb and rest of party visit Guay- 
 mas — Kindness of Dr. Campbell — Description of Ures, the capital of 
 Sonora — Theatricals — The Yaqui Indians — The Opate Indians — Visit 
 from Tanori, an Opate chief — Other Indian tribes of Sonora — Exports 
 — Narrative of an expedition against the Apaches — My party leave me 
 and go to the Gila — Taken to Dr. Campbell's — Irruption of the Apaches 
 — Imbecility of the Mexicans — Tanori and the Opate Indians go in pur- 
 suit — Visit from the Coco-Maricopa Indians of the Gila — Good news 
 from Tanori — He defeats the Apaches and recovers the stock — En- 
 trance of the victors with the recovered booty into Ures — Death of 
 General Garcia Conde — His character — An American held in bondage 
 — Arrival of General Flores — Departure for the coast. ...... 438 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 URES TO GUAYMAS. 
 
 Leave Ures — Rich valley — Tapahui — Don Manuel Gandera — His large es- 
 tates — Successful farming — Statistics of his haciendas — Silver mine — 
 Reach Hermosillo — Governor Aguilar — The Ceris Indians — Obtain 
 their language — Account of the tribe — Mode of poisoning their wea- 
 pons — Description of Hermosillo — The Sonora River — Productions of 
 the valley — Business relations — Sketch of the town — Departure — Meet 
 French emigrants — Description of the country — Its barrenness — Busi- 
 ness-like mode of milking cows — La Cieneguita — Buena Noche — Reach 
 Guaymas — Mr. Robinson, the U. S. Consul — Description of Guaymas 
 and its Campo Santo — Its harbor — Commerce — Intense heat — Depart- 
 ure 458 
 
XX CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 GUAYMAS TO SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Voyage down the Gulf of California in a pilot boat — Barren coast — Island 
 of Carmen — Loreto — Reach Mazatlan — Its picturesque appearance — 
 Description of the town — Americans here — Embark for Acapulco — 
 Land at San Bias — Visit to Mr. Horn, the Captain of the Port — Ride to 
 the old town — Its beautiful position — Ruined condition — Visit an old 
 fortress — Leave San Bias — Description of the coast — Volcanoes of Coli- 
 ma — Land at Manzanillo Bay — Its unhealthy climate — Laguna — Cargo 
 discharged — Stupidity of Custom House official — Leave without papers 
 — Reach Acapulco — Chinese hotel — Beautiful harbor — Castle of San 
 Carlos — Unhealthiness of the place — Extreme heat — Noxious insects — 
 Description of the town — Ancient commerce — Departure for San Diego 
 — Crowded state of the steamer — Voyage up the coast — Arrival at 
 San Diego — Rejoin the Boundary Commission 482 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS TO FIRST VOLUME. 
 
 WOOD-CUTS. 
 
 No. Page 
 
 1. Mission of San Jose, Texas,.. 42 
 
 2. Mission of Concepcion, Texas, 44 
 
 3. Prairie-Dog Town, Texas, 70 
 
 4. Castle Mountain Pass, Texas, 91 
 
 5. Crossing the Peoos, Texas, ....... 98 
 
 6. Guadalupe Mountain and Pass, Texas, . . . . 118 
 
 7. Waco Mountain and Pass, Texas, 132 
 
 8. Indian Paintings on Kooks, Waco Mountains, Texas, . 171 
 
 9. " " " " " 172 
 
 10. " " " " '.' . 173 
 
 11. Church and Plaza, El Paso, Chihuahua, .... 189 
 
 12. Presidio of San Eleazario, Texas, 194 
 
 13. Approach to Mule Speing and Picacho of the Mimbees, 
 
 New Mexico, 219 
 
 14. Sandstone Eooks, Yallet of the Mimbees, New Mexico, 224 
 
 15. Yallet of the Copper Mines (Fort Webster), New Mexico, . 227 
 
 16. Canon Leading to the Copper Mines, New Mexico, . 232 
 
 17. Presidio at the Copper Mines, New Mexico, . . . 235 
 
 18. Defile in the Guadalupe Pass. Sierra Madre, Sonora, 254 
 
 19. Town of Fronteeas, Sonora, 265 
 
 20. Sandstone Columns, near Arispe, Sonoea, . . . 280 
 
XX11 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 No. 
 21. 
 
 22. 
 
 23. 
 24. 
 25. 
 26. 
 27. 
 28. 
 29. 
 30. 
 31. 
 32. 
 33. 
 34. 
 
 Town of Akispe, Sonoea, 
 
 Group of Apaches, 
 
 Apache Head-Deess and Boots, .... 
 
 Bueeo Mountains, New Mexico, 
 
 Sugae-Loaf Mountain, -Chihuahua, 
 
 Rocky Oayeen, neae the Boundaey, Chihuahua, 
 
 Punt a de Sauz Cienega, Sonoea, 
 
 Chieicahui Mountains, Sonoea, 
 
 Wigwam of the Papago Indians, Sonoea, . 
 
 Town of Santa Ceuz, Sonoea, .... 
 
 Dooeway of a Chuech, San Ignacio, Sonoea, . 
 
 Town of Santa Magdalena, Sonoea, 
 
 Date-Teee and Field of Sugae-Cane, Uees, Sonoea, 
 
 Manzanillo Bay, Pacific Coast, 
 
 Page 
 281 
 
 326 
 
 329 
 
 364 
 
 366 
 
 368 
 
 370 
 
 369 
 
 382 
 
 408 
 
 419 
 
 430 
 
 441 
 
 496 
 
 LITHOGRAPHS. 
 
 No. 
 
 1. Snow-Stoem on Delawaee Ceeek, neae the Pecos, Texas, 112 
 
 2. Guadalupe Pass on Cooke's Road, Sieeea Madee, Sonoea, 296 
 
 3. Valley Leading to Santa Ceuz, Sonoea, .... 402 
 
 4. City of Heemosillo, Sonoea, 468 
 
 5. City of Mazatlan, Pacific Coast, . . . . . 486 
 
 6. City of Aoapulco, Pacific Coast, 500 
 
FIRST DIVISION. 
 
 NEW YORK TO EL PASO, THROUGH TEXAS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 NEW YOEK TO INDIANOLA. 
 
 Treaty of Peace between the United States and Mexico — Hon, J. B. Wel- 
 ler appointed Commissioner to run the new Boundary Line between 
 the two Bepublics — Determines the initial point on the Pacific and the 
 centre of the mouth of the Gila — Ool. J. 0. Fremont's Appointment 
 and Besignation — J. B. Bartlett appointed Commissioner — Fitting out 
 and Organization of the Expedition — Embarcation of main body of 
 Commission from New York — Embarcation of Commissioner and others 
 — Water-Spouts — Havana — New Orleans — Arrival at Indianola. 
 
 The treaty of peace between the United States and 
 the Mexican Republic, dated at Guadalupe Hidalgo, 
 on the 2d February, 1848, requires that " the two 
 governments shall each appoint a commissioner and sur- 
 veyor, who, before the expiration of one year from the 
 date of the exchange of ratifications of this treaty, 
 shall meet at the port of San Diego," and proceed to 
 run and mark the boundary between the two countries 
 " in its whole length to the mouth of the Rio Bravo 
 del Norte." These officers are required to " keep 
 journals and make out plans of their operations; and 
 the result agreed upon by them shall be deemed a part 
 
2 NEW YORK 
 
 of this treaty, and shall have the same force as if it 
 were inserted therein. The two governments will 
 amicably agree regarding what may be necessary to 
 these persons, and also as to their respective escorts, 
 should such be necessary." 
 
 The treaty requires that the starting or initial point 
 on the Pacific Ocean shall be " one marine league due 
 south of the southernmost point of the port of San Diego, 
 according to the plan of said port, made in the year 
 1782 by Don Juan Pantoja, second sailing-master of 
 the Spanish fleet, and published at Madrid in the year 
 1802, in the Atlas to the Voyage of the schooners Sutil 
 and Mexicana." From this point the line separating 
 Upper from Lower California was to be "a straight line 
 to the middle of the Rio Gila, where it unites with the 
 Colorado." 
 
 The Hon. John B. Weller was appointed the first 
 Commissioner, and Andrew B. Gray, Esq., the first Sur- 
 veyor under the treaty. They took with them to San 
 Diego a corps of engineers and assistants. Major W. 
 H. Emory, Captain E. L. F. Hardcastle, and Lieuten- 
 ant A. W. Whipple, of the U, S. Topographical Engi- 
 neers, the first as chief, and the latter as assistant 
 astronomers, were detailed by the government to aid 
 the commissioner and surveyor, in carrying out the 
 stipulations of the treaty. They assembled at San 
 Diego in the month of June, and entered upon their 
 duties soon after. 
 
 Without going into any detail of the proceedings 
 of this Commission, it will be sufficient for my purpose 
 to say, that the two important points referred to, viz., 
 the initial point, one marine league south of the Bay 
 
TO INDIANOLA. 3 
 
 of San Diego, and the middle of the Bio Gila, where 
 it unites with the Colorado, were determined by means 
 of an elaborate series of astronomical observations, by 
 the Topographical Engineers intrusted with these du- 
 ties. A considerable portion of the straight line con- 
 necting these points was also run. 
 
 In February, 1850, it was found impracticable to 
 advance eastward beyond the mouth of the Gila, and 
 towards the frontier of New Mexico, in consequence 
 of the difficulties attending the fitting out of large 
 parties for the important service to be performed. 
 The Commission then adjourned, to meet at El Paso, 
 in the State of Chihuahua, on the first Monday of No- 
 vember following. 
 
 Soon after the adjournment, Mr. Weller was re- 
 moved, and Colonel J. C. Fremont appointed to 
 his place; but before the latter gentleman entered 
 upon his duties as Commissioner, he was elected by 
 the people of California, to represent that State in the 
 Senate of the United States. Elected to so distin- 
 guished an office, Colonel Fremont did not hesitate to 
 resign his place as Commissioner on the Boundary, 
 when I was honored by President Taylor with the 
 appointment to succeed him. 
 
 I received my letter of appointment in June, 1850, 
 when I immediately set to work, to organize such a 
 party as would be necessary to carry on the survey, 
 and to procure the outfit required for the service. 
 Here was a preparatory labor of several months. But, 
 as I was required to be at El Paso del Norte, on the 
 Rio Grande, on the 1st Monday in November, the day 
 on which the joint Commission was to meet, agreeably 
 
NEW YORK 
 
 to the adjournment in the preceding February, there 
 was little time left me for these preparations ; for, 
 making every exertion, I could not expect to reach 
 that far-distant place, in less than two months after 
 leaving the Gulf of Mexico. This would leave me 
 little more than two months, viz., July and August, to 
 select my assistants, organize the Commission, procure 
 the necessary outfit, and transport the whole to the most 
 convenient point on the Gulf of Mexico, from which 
 the party could start on its long march for the interior. 
 
 I immediately set to work to complete the arrange- 
 ments previously made for wagons, tents, camp equip- 
 age, arms and ammunition, instruments, stationery, 
 etc., and to purchase provisions, medical stores, and 
 such other articles as would be required in a distant 
 country, where few of the necessaries of life could be 
 procured, and still less of the supplies required by 
 surveying parties, except only animals, and the means 
 of transportation. 
 
 Twenty-five wagons were contracted for, in New- 
 ark, New Jersey, including ambulances, or spring wag- 
 ons, for the transportation of surveying and astronomi- 
 cal instruments, and other purposes. Four iron boats, 
 with their equipments, were constructed, under the 
 direction of Lieutenant J. G. Strain, U. S. NaVy. 
 Tents for the whole party, camp equipage, harness, 
 saddles and bridles, pack saddles, mechanics' tools, 
 fire arms, and the other articles named, were purchased 
 in New York ; in which duty I had the assistance of 
 the same officer, who was indefatigable in his exertions 
 to prepare the party for service. 
 
 That no time might be lost in the preparations for 
 
TO INDIANOLA. 
 
 the field, I first appointed a Quarter- master and a 
 Commissary, who immediately entered upon their re- 
 spective duties. The former, James Myer, Esq., a 
 gentleman from Texas, who had been connected with 
 the Quarter-master's department, under General Tay- 
 lor, in the late war with Mexico, proceeded at once to 
 Texas, with his assistant, Edward Clarke, Esq., for the 
 purpose of procuring horses and mules, which were to 
 be brought together at our place of landing. I next 
 appointed the various engineers, surveyors, and their 
 assistants, mechanics, laborers, cooks, servants, etc. ; 
 and issued an order to all, to report themselves in 
 the City of New York, on board the Steamer Gal- 
 veston, on the 3d day of August, 1850, having char- 
 tered that vessel to transport the Commission and its 
 stores to Indianola, in Texas. 
 
 In organizing the Boundary Commission, I had in 
 view other objects, not directly connected with the 
 survey. By the sixth article of the treaty of Guada- 
 lupe Hidalgo, provision is made for the collection of 
 information relative to the construction of a "road, 
 canal, or railway, which shall, in whole or in part, run 
 upon the river Gila, or upon its right or left bank, 
 within the space of a marine league from either mar- 
 gin of the river." 
 
 To make these examinations required an additional 
 force ; but besides this, my intention was to commence 
 the survey with two parties simultaneously, at El Paso, 
 and work towards both the Pacific and the Atlantic, 
 by which means the work would be brought to a much 
 speedier termination, than if a single party of engi- 
 neers should take the field and carry on the work, 
 
6 NEW YORK 
 
 from one end of the line to the other. To do all this 
 required four full parties, two of them being astro- 
 nomical and two surveying. The Commission was 
 therefore organized accordingly. Its chief officers, 
 when the re-organization took place, after my appoint- 
 ment, were as follows: 
 
 John R Bartlett, Commissioner. 
 
 Andrew B. Gray, Surveyor. 
 
 Col. John McClellan, Chief Astronomer. 
 
 Lieut. J. G. Strain, JJ. S. Wavy. 
 
 Lieut. A. W. Whipple, Assistant Astronomer. 
 
 Capt. E. L. F. Hardcastle, do. do. 
 
 The latter officer remained in California, to finish the 
 demarcation of the line between the mouth of the 
 Rio Gila and the Pacific, and did not join the parties 
 which accompanied me. For the programme of the 
 Commission, as organized in Washington, in July, 1850, 
 see Appendix C. 
 
 On the third of August following, or about six 
 weeks after my appointment, the outfit, subsistence, 
 etc., were so far ready, that the whole Commission, 
 excepting Lieutenant Whipple, Colonel Chandler, one 
 of the first assistant engineers, two of the assistants, 
 and myself, embarked on board the steamer Galveston, 
 at New York, and set sail the same afternoon for New 
 Orleans and Indianola, Texas. The whole party, em- 
 bracing officers and men, which embarked, numbered 
 one hundred and five persons, taking with them pro- 
 visions for six months. An escort of United States 
 soldiers, under Colonel Craig, consisting of 3d Infant- 
 
TO INDIANOLA. 7 
 
 ry, and embracing eighty -five men, accompanied the 
 Commission. 
 
 On the 13th of August, having closed up all the 
 business of the Commission, and procured some as- 
 tronomical instruments which could not be got ready 
 sooner, I embarked on board the steamship Georgia, 
 Captain Porter, accompanied by the gentlemen before 
 referred to, for Havana, where we arrived on the morn- 
 ing of the 19th, after a pleasant voyage. With the ex- 
 ception of a thunderstorm off Cape Hatteras, and the 
 unusual sight of five water-spouts at the same time, from 
 a large heavy cloud about two miles to the leeward, 
 there were no incidents worth recording. The water- 
 spouts were interesting on account of the unusual 
 number seen at the same time. One of these, and 
 the largest, rose in a direct perpendicular column from 
 the surface of the ocean to the cloud, funnel-shaped at 
 either end, or like a huge column, its base on the 
 ocean, its capital under the cloud. All the others 
 were spiral, and connected in the middle by an appa- 
 rently small column of water. They soon disap- 
 peared, as well as the heavy cloud with which they 
 were connected. The turbulent ocean, which had 
 lashed the ship's sides for a couple of hours, soon 
 became composed, and relapsed into a dead calm. 
 This continued until we rounded the Moro Castle, 
 and entered the beautiful harbor of Havana. 
 
 In the afternoon of the same day we left the Geor- 
 gia, which went no further, and embarked on board the 
 steamer Falcon for New Orleans. A striking con- 
 trast was presented in these two ships. The former 
 was sweet and clean in every part ; while the filth of 
 
8 NEW YORK 
 
 th,e latter, and the stench arising from her cabin and 
 hold, resembled that from a hog stye. She had just 
 arrived from Chagres with a large number of passen- 
 gers from California, many of whom were suffering 
 with fever. One poor creature died during the day, 
 and was sent on shore for interment. Although we 
 felt somewhat apprehensive on finding ourselves in Ha- 
 vana at mid-summer, when foreigners generally leave, 
 and when all avoid it who can, I suffered no inconve- 
 nience from the heat, which was not more oppressive 
 than in New York ; still we took the precaution to 
 keep very quiet. A gentle breeze drew in from the 
 ocean, making it comfortable under the awning. To- 
 wards evening, I went on shore with Lieut. Whipple, 
 when we took a volante and drove out to the bishop's 
 palace, and the neighboring public places of resort. 
 
 Tuesday, August 20th. At two o'clock p. m., sailed 
 for New Orleans ; the weather pleasant, and not uncom- 
 fortably warm. The boat was not only crowded with 
 passengers, but, to increase the discomfort, her decks 
 were filled with crates of pine-apples and other fruits, 
 so as to leave but little room to move about. When 
 I went to retire, I learned that there were two pas- 
 sengers on board with the yellow fever ; in fact, I had 
 arranged my cot near them before I found out what 
 their illness was. Several of the passengers then, my- 
 self among the number, thought it more prudent to 
 spread our beds upon the deck, where we had the ad- 
 vantage of a pure atmosphere. Reached New Orleans 
 at midnight on the 23d, and proceeded at once to the 
 Saint Charles Hotel, as did nearly all the rest of the 
 passengers. 
 
TO INDIANOLA. V 
 
 I here learned that the Galveston had arrived in 
 safety, and, after a delay of a couple of days, had pro- 
 ceeded to Indianola. One of the officers had been 
 taken with a fever, and remained behind ; all the 
 others were in good health. 
 
 After remaining at New Orleans two days, we em- 
 barked on board the steamer Portland, for Indianola, 
 a clean and comfortable vessel, though somewhat 
 slow. The surface of the gulf was scarcely ruffled 
 by the breeze ; so that no one was sea-sick, and all 
 seemed to enjoy the voyage. The fourth day brought 
 us to Galveston, where I found three young men be- 
 longing to the Commission, who had been left by the 
 Galveston steamer. Remained here long enough to 
 go to the beach and bathe, which greatly refreshed 
 us ; when we continued our voyage, and came to 
 anchor the next evening off the town of La Salle, in 
 Matagorda Bay. Several officers of the Commission, 
 who had been watching the arrival of the steamer, 
 came on board late at night, and informed me that all 
 had arrived in safety, and that they were encamped 
 at Indianola, about six miles distant. 
 
 August 31st A small government steamer came 
 off to us early this morning and took us to Indianola, 
 which we reached at eleven o'clock. Many of the 
 party met me at the landing, when I took an ambu- 
 lance and rode to the camp, on the shore of the bay, 
 a short distance from the town. 
 
10 INDIAN OLA 
 
 CHAPTER II 
 
 INDIANOLA TO SAN ANTONIO. 
 
 Preparations for the Start — Breaking mules — La Salle and its early History 
 — Prosperity of Indianola — Commencement of Survey — Eoute to Vic- 
 toria — Shoeing mules — Encampment in grove — Military drilling — 
 Flourishing condition of Victoria — Primitive legal proceedings — Diffi- 
 culties of navigating Espiritu Santo Bay — Description of surrounding 
 country — Mexican ranch — Observance of the Sabbath — Justice dis- 
 pensed in the matter of a calf — Goliad, its early history and ruins — 
 Massacre of prisoners after the battle of Perdida Creek — Leave Goliad 
 — Murder of a Mexican by a teamster — Arrival at San Antonio — 
 Another murder — Preparations for crossing the Plains — Description 
 of San Antonio— Alamo — Mission Churches. 
 
 Since the arrival of the Commission, all parties had 
 been busily occupied in getting ready to move into 
 the interior ; and those only who have had experience 
 in fitting out a large train of wagons for a journey 
 across the prairies, or to California, can form an ade- 
 quate idea of the preparations required. If the route 
 were a settled one, or if settlements were to be met 
 with, even at distances of a hundred miles apart, 
 where supplies could be procured and repairs made, 
 much of the labor necessary on setting out, and a vast 
 deal that is required on the way, might be dispensed 
 with. At this place it was not necessary to complete 
 
TO SAN ANTONIO. 11 
 
 our arrangements for a final start. The town did 
 not furnish the facilities for so doing. My intention, 
 therefore, was to proceed to San Antonio, the princi- 
 pal city of Texas, a hundred and forty miles distant, 
 and there complete our outfit for the longer march 
 across the prairies and deserts to El Paso del Norte. 
 
 Quarter-master Myer had arrived before the Gal- 
 veston, with about one hundred horses and mules ; but 
 these were quite inadequate for the wants of the party. 
 It was found, too, that the twenty -five wagons brought 
 out were insufficient to transport the property of the 
 Commission ; in fact, they would little more than 
 carry the instruments, personal baggage, tents, and 
 camp equipage. The instruments were packed with 
 great care, and filled four of the ambulances. It there- 
 fore became necessary to procure at once additional 
 wagons, mules, and horses for the transportation of 
 the provisions, of which we had a six months' supply 
 for one hundred men, as well as for the men to ride 
 on. But that no time should be lost, it was thought 
 best, as fast as the wagons could be got ready, to pro- 
 ceed into the interior, as far as the town of Victoria, 
 where water, wood, and grass were abundant, and 
 where greater facilities were to be found for shoeing 
 our animals than at Indianola. Here there was no 
 wood, and water could be had only from one or two 
 wells, and that of so bad a quality that many of the 
 party had been attacked with complaints of the 
 bowels. 
 
 The quartermaster and his men occupied them- 
 selves in breaking the mules, very few of which had 
 ever been in harness before. This was done by mak- 
 
12 INDIANOLA 
 
 ing them draw logs about for a few days, when 
 they became docile, and could be harnessed to the 
 wagons with safety. While this was going on, the 
 mechanics were employed in their various duties. 
 The blacksmiths and carpenters in making many 
 small fixtures to the wagons; amongst other things, 
 all had to be provided with feed-troughs, not a single 
 one of these necessary appendages being furnished 
 with them. All the harness and collars had to be re- 
 duced, to adapt them to our Mexican mules, which 
 were much smaller than the mules of Kentucky and 
 Missouri, used at the north, and for the transportation 
 of merchandise for the Santa Fe and New Mexican trade. 
 La Salle, the place opposite which we came to an- 
 chor in entering Matagorda Bay, is so named in memo- 
 ry of one of the most remarkable of the early explo- 
 rers of the North American continent. This distin- 
 guished Frenchman, with the ardent zeal which charac- 
 terized his countrymen in their attempts to penetrate 
 to the very heart of the continent, had passed the great 
 chain of the northern lakes, pushed his discoveries to 
 the head waters of the Mississippi, and traced its course 
 to the gulf, before the first English colonist had es- 
 tablished himself on the Atlantic coast. Coasting along 
 the shores of the gulf in search of a spot whereon he 
 might establish a colony, he landed, against his will, at 
 or near the spot which now bears his name, where he 
 remained nearly a year with a little band of adventu- 
 rers, facing all the dangers and undergoing all the hard- 
 ships to which they could be exposed in a country sur- 
 rounded by hostile Indians. In his attempt to extricate 
 his party, he was murdered by one of them. 
 
TO SAN ANTONIO. 13 
 
 This place was selected as the most desirable spot 
 for a town, on account of its depth of water, and con- 
 venience of approach from the gulf. Vessels drawing 
 ten feet of water, are said to have passed in without 
 difficulty ; and, to use the words of an enthusiastic ad- 
 mirer of its position, who doubtless had some interest 
 in its success, "it seems to have been intended by 
 nature, to rear and sustain a large commercial city." 
 
 From the several examinations which have been 
 made of Matagorda Bay, it appears that the harbors on 
 its western shores, the chief of which are La Salle and 
 Indianola, possess advantages above those of any ports 
 on the Gulf of Mexico, between the mouth of the Mis- 
 sissippi and Vera Cruz, with the exception of Galves- 
 ton. The whole Texan coast, it is well known, is bor- 
 dered by long and shallow lagoons, connected with the 
 waters of the gulf by narrow openings, whose position 
 is constantly shifting, and which have not always suffi- 
 cient depth of water for the passage of large vessels. 
 Paso Cavallo, the entrance to Matagorda Bay, is only 
 second to that which leads to Galveston Bay. 
 
 In the contest for superiority, Indianola seems to 
 have carried away the palm ; for while the highly ap- 
 plauded site for the city of La Salle is almost unoccu- 
 pied, the former has grown into a large and thriving 
 town, second only to Galveston among all the ports of 
 Texas. Indianola is now the port for the extensive 
 commerce with Western Texas, Chihuahua, and por- 
 tions of New Mexico ; a railroad has already been com- 
 menced to connect it with San Antonio, the chief city 
 of the State, and two lines of steamers plying between 
 it and New Orleans will continue to add to its prosperi- 
 
14 INDIANOLA 
 
 ty. Should one of the contemplated railroads to the 
 Pacific be extended west from San Antonio, with its 
 terminus here, Inclianola will rank second only to New 
 Orleans among the cities of the gulf in commerce and 
 population. 
 
 The necessity of giving early employment to the 
 large corps of engineers attached to the Commission, 
 in the duties which appertained to their profession, 
 induced me, among other reasons, to make an examina- 
 tion of the country between Indian ola and our place of 
 destination on the Rio Grande, in order to ascertain the 
 facilities it afforded for a railroad. With this view I 
 caused a party to be organized to make a chain and 
 compass survey, and to carry a line of levels to deter- 
 mine a profile of the route from this point to El Paso 
 del Norte. The eyes of the South had long been di- 
 rected this way ; for whether there might be a more 
 practicable route or not further north, it was a question 
 of great importance to the southern section of the 
 Union, that all the information possible, should be ob- 
 tained with reference to the country we were about to 
 traverse, and its practicability for the purpose of a rail- 
 road. 
 
 The various engineers, surveyors, and assistants, 
 were desirous to enter on active duty as soon as possi- 
 ble, and received with great satisfaction the order to 
 commence their labors in a field comparatively un- 
 known. 
 
 Lieutenant A. W. Whipple, of the Topographical 
 Engineers, was placed at the head of the party, and 
 performed the astronomical duties; while Mr. John 
 Bull was the principal surveyor, in charge of this de- 
 
TO SAN ANTONIO. 15 
 
 partnient of the work. They selected their assistants, 
 and entered upon their operations on the 3d of Septem- 
 ber. 
 
 The preparations on the train, the breaking in of 
 the mules, and obtaining the additional transportation 
 before alluded to, occupied about a week after my ar- 
 rival. I left Indianola on the fifth of September for 
 Victoria, distant about thirty miles, a portion of the 
 train having preceded me. Immediately on leaving 
 the shores of the bay we entered a fine level prairie, un- 
 limited by hill or any elevation, and covered with the 
 richest grass. Not a tree or shrub interrupted the 
 broad expanse that lay before us. Here and there were 
 gentle undulations, like the long waves of the ocean 
 when, after a severe blow, its agitated waters are sub- 
 siding into a calm. The prairie fowl, the great curlew, 
 and flocks of quail arose as we moved along ; and be- 
 ing in advance of the party, I had an opportunity to 
 test the qualities of my double-barrelled gun. When but 
 a few miles from the town, we began to observe herds 
 of deer a short distance from the road, grazing in 
 quietness among the innumerable cattle which dotted 
 the plain in every direction, doubtless imagining that 
 proximity to their tame companions added to their 
 security : though, in fact, it proved directly the reverse ; 
 for the cunning hunter would take advantage of their 
 presence to approach the nearer to his game. The young 
 men who accompanied me, being prepared with rifles, 
 dashed off to try their hand at this exciting sport, in 
 which they were more or less successful ; so that on 
 reaching our place of encampment, they were provided 
 with a fine saddle of venison for their dinner. 
 
16 INDIANOLA 
 
 The entire distance to Victoria is over the rich 
 prairie just described. It is occasionally intersected 
 by bayous, lagoons, or small streams, where the land 
 is brought into cultivation, giving evidence of its 
 inexhaustible richness in the luxuriant growth of cotton 
 and sugar-cane which it bears. Near the water are 
 clumps of trees ; and such spots are eagerly sought 
 after as places of residence. 
 
 On the morning of the 6th, I reached Victoria, 
 where I found great activity in the camp. Here one 
 of the most important jobs was to be performed, that 
 of shoeing the mules. It was believed, that breaking 
 them in to the harness at Indian ola, and two days' 
 journey with heavily loaded wagons, would render them 
 more tractable, when the process of shoeing was to 
 be undertaken. But this rough handling seemed to 
 have subdued them but little. They were as wild 
 and skittish as when roaming at large over the broad 
 prairies, and as repugnant to civilized life, and the 
 arduous labors attending it, as the untamed mustangs, 
 which had never been brought under the control of 
 the teamster's lash. 
 
 The first step in this process, was to construct a 
 frame-work of timber, called the "stocks," consisting 
 of four upright posts, connected by bars on all sides, 
 and capable of containing a single mule. Near this was 
 placed the blacksmith's forge. 
 
 The next step was to catch the mules, and place 
 them in the stocks, a task of infinitely more labor than 
 that of putting on the shoes. The mules were first 
 driven into a corral or pen. The animal to be shod 
 was then selected, and a lasso or rope thrown over his 
 
TO SAN ANTONIO. 17 
 
 head, by which he was drawn from the inclosure. 
 Then commenced a series of kickings, and rearings, and 
 boltings, a caution to all to keep out of the way, when, 
 by the aid of several men, the victim was brought up 
 to the stocks. Now came the most difficult part of 
 the operation, that of getting him in. A mule is by 
 nature timid, even when he has been used for years, 
 and subjected to kind treatment; but if, when only 
 half tamed, he is violently brought under control, this 
 timidity is increased to actual fright, and he does not 
 hesitate to ply his heels pretty vigorously. There is no 
 species of defence belonging to the horse, no stubborn- 
 ness peculiar to the ass, but are concentrated in the 
 mule. He possesses the bad qualities of his paternal and 
 maternal progenitors, with the good traits of neither. 
 The gentleness, docility, and instinct of the horse, are 
 not found in the race ; while the capricious obstinacy 
 of his paternal ancestor is exhibited to the fullest ex- 
 tent. There is one trait of his character, however, 
 that should be noticed, and that is his power of endu- 
 ring fatigue and privation, which renders him better 
 fitted for the long inland journeys, where there is an 
 insufficiency of food and a scarcity of water, than the 
 horse. 
 
 The sight of the stocks, as might be supposed, 
 would not tend to make a mule more tractable. Then 
 begins the tug. The rear kick, the side kick, the for- 
 ward plunge, are exhibited to the fullest extent. Seve- 
 ral men get hold of the halter, while other ropes are 
 passed round his rear, and thus he is finally drawn 
 into the stocks. Bandages or straps are placed under 
 his body, by which he is raised from his feet. His 
 
 VOL. I. — 2 
 
1 8 INDIANOLA 
 
 head is secured between two wooden bars ; and each 
 foot, after a severe tussle, is fastened, by means of iron 
 clamps, to the four upright posts or cross-bars. The 
 victim is now ready for the shoeing process, which is 
 the most expeditious part of the operation. The shoes 
 having been previously brought to the size of the small 
 hoofs, a blacksmith stands ready at each foot, with a 
 shoe, nails, and hammer in hand. He does not then 
 pause in order to make a close fit ; but the shoe is put 
 on in less time than a city farrier would spend in 
 paring a horse's hoof. This part of the job being 
 over, the finale of the operation is to haul the animal 
 out, which, owing to the spirit of perverseness inherent 
 in his nature, is generally attended with as much 
 difficulty as that of getting him into the stocks. He 
 is now suffered to go at large, unrestrained by the bars 
 and rails of the corral. In this maimer, about one 
 hundred and fifty mules were shod ; and, as only twelve 
 at the most could be got through with in one day, 
 about two weeks were necessarily spent in this portion 
 of our fitting out for the march. Considerable time 
 was also occupied in preparing the shoes, which were 
 made in New York ; and being adapted for the larger 
 American mules, it was found necessary to reduce them 
 all for the smaller and more delicately formed hoofs of 
 our Mexican torments. 
 
 Believing it would be more advantageous to the 
 members of the Commission whose presence was not 
 necessary in the camp where the work alluded to was 
 going on, and that it would be conducive to their 
 health, I left Victoria on the 13th, with the larger por- 
 tion of the Commission, and formed my camp in a 
 
TO SAN ANTONIO. 19 
 
 beautiful grove of live oaks, on the banks of the river 
 Colette, a tributary of the Guadalupe, six miles dis- 
 tant. We were here away from the vices and mischief 
 which invariably attend large parties without employ- 
 ment, when encamped in or near a town. We here 
 had fine running water, in which we could bathe, a 
 practice which greatly tended to promote health. The 
 trees afforded us a fine shade ; and, as the heat was still 
 great, the mercury rising from 95° to 100° Fahrenheit, 
 in the coolest places, we found it more comfortable 
 beneath the trees than to remain in our tents. There 
 was excellent grass in abundance all around us, where 
 our animals could feed, and we quietly awaited the 
 arrival of the train, to continue our journey. 
 
 Before setting out from Indianola, it was deemed 
 advisable, for the safety of the party, in the long and 
 dangerous march of more than eight hundred miles 
 through a country infested by hostile Indians, to or- 
 ganize the members of the Commission, not engaged 
 on surveying or other duties, into two military com- 
 panies. This would place them all under the more 
 direct control of the officers, and hence lead to a better 
 subordination. With this view, the engineers and their 
 assistants were formed into a cavalry corps, under the 
 command of Lieutenant J. G. Strain, U. S. Navy ; and 
 the mechanics and laborers into a rifle corps, under the 
 command of Captain Edmund Barry, an officer who 
 had served in the army during the Mexican war. All 
 were provided with rifles or carbines, and many of the 
 cavalry with Colt's revolvers, or six shooters. Lieu- 
 tenant Strain, by means of careful drilling at India- 
 nola, on the march, and during our stay at Victoria, 
 
20 INDIANOLA 
 
 brought his company into such a state of discipline, 
 that it made a very respectable appearance. The 
 saddles, bridles, and trappings, were the same as those 
 of the U. S. Dragoons ; the uniform, blue flannel shirts, 
 dark pantaloons, and broad-brimmed white felt hats. 
 The dress of the rifles was scarlet flannel shirts, the 
 rest of the uniform the same as the cavalry. 
 
 The town of Victoria, which we have just left, is 
 one of the most flourishing inland towns in Texas. It 
 stands on the banks of the Guadalupe River, and, being 
 in the midst of a fertile region, possesses a good trade. 
 At the time of our visit, in September, 1850, it had 
 three public houses, numerous stores, mechanics' shops 
 of various kinds, a weekly newspaper, and a court- 
 house. The latter edifice always brings with it, in 
 new countries, numerous accessories. The court was 
 in session at the time of our visit, and appearances 
 indicated that a good deal of law and justice was dis- 
 pensed here. The house, being of limited dimensions, 
 could scarcely contain those whom business brought 
 here, and the numerous idlers who have a propensity 
 for hanging round country courts. Many were there- 
 fore obliged to spend their time in the shade of the 
 fences and trees near by ; and when required as wit- 
 nesses, the constables came outside the building and 
 called out their names to the full extent of their lungs ; 
 a primitive mode of doing business, though attended 
 with much more comfort for the witnesses, than if 
 obliged to be pent up in a closely confined room for 
 hours and days together. How the juries were dis- 
 posed of I did not learn ; they could not, at any rate, 
 carry them out into the high grass, as was customary 
 
TO SAN ANTONIO. 21 
 
 in some of the new States of the West, when courts 
 were first introduced. 
 
 Victoria is a place of recent growth, having been 
 settled within ten years. The Guadalupe River, where 
 it passes the town, is an insignificant stream ; but its 
 high banks bear witness that it is at times one of con- 
 siderable magnitude. Attempts have been made to 
 navigate it by means of a small steamer, but with 
 indifferent success ; and the difficulties attending the 
 navigation of Espiritu Santo Bay, into which the river 
 empties, will prove a serious obstacle to regular com- 
 munication with the seaboard. I directed the quarter- 
 master to transport the property of the Commission to 
 Victoria by steamer from the coast ; but finding it a 
 very uncertain mode, and one which might be attended 
 with serious delays, he thought it most prudent to 
 make use of wagons, and such of our stores as exceeded 
 our own means of conveyance were drawn with hired 
 teams. As I did not pass through this place on my 
 return, I do not know whether the attempt to navi- 
 gate the Guadalupe with steamboats has been success- 
 ful or not. 
 
 September 14^. The weather was extremely warm 
 to-day, the mercury rising to 102° in the shade. Took 
 an early breakfast, in order to examine the country 
 around us before the sun was too high. The banks of 
 the Colette are overhung with trees, from the branches 
 of which hang long festoons of moss, waving grace- 
 fully with the breeze. The river is about 150 feet 
 wide, and near our camp about five feet deep and quite 
 sluggish. Saw many fine fish, among them the kind 
 known as the " buffalo fish ;" but it would not take the 
 
22 INDIANOLA 
 
 hook. The largest ones seemed fond of lying near the 
 surface of the water, which enabled us to shoot them 
 with a rifle. They proved excellent eating. 
 
 The vegetation presents more interesting features 
 as we proceed inland, — the river bottoms are well 
 wooded with oaks, pecan, and huck-berry, — and the 
 minor plants are more numerous. The peach and fig 
 flourish well in the gardens near Victoria ; but the sea- 
 son is so dry, that we have no vegetables except pump- 
 kins, — even potatoes have disappeared. 
 
 In our walk Mr. Thurber gathered many plants; 
 we also found the first appearance of rock that we had 
 seen in Texas, near the banks of the stream. Near by 
 was a Mexican ranch, which was then an object of 
 curiosity, being the first of the kind we had met with. 
 It was built of sticks set upright, the interstices filled 
 in with mud. The floor was of the same material. 
 The house contained but a single apartment, which was 
 occupied by a Mexican, his wife, and several children. 
 The pigs were rooting near the door. Several fowls 
 were perched upon projecting sticks, or nestling on 
 the beds ; and we had ocular proof that they some- 
 times deposited their eggs there. Bought out the 
 entire stock of eggs, and all the milk that could be 
 spared. 
 
 September I5th, Sunday. Thermometer at 101°. 
 Announced that I would read the church service at 9 
 o'clock, and invited all to attend. It was a source of 
 gratification to find that the whole camp were present 
 save the two men on guard. The service took place 
 beneath the branches of a large tree, where we were 
 sufficiently protected from the sun's rays. The chapter 
 
TO SAN ANTONIO. 23 
 
 read on this occasion was from the 20th Corinthians, 
 giving the narrative of St. Paul's voyage and shipwreck, 
 which seemed an appropriate one : a hymn was after- 
 wards sung, in which the greater portion joined. This 
 being over, all returned to their tents, or beneath the 
 adjacent trees, and passed the remainder of the day in 
 quietness. Much satisfaction was expressed at this 
 observance of the Sabbath, and it was hoped that it might 
 continue to be thus kept during our long march. 
 
 September 16th. The weather continues hot, the mer- 
 cury reaching 99° to day, which of course kept us 
 quietly in camp as before. Early in the day I set off 
 with my gun in search of game, but was unsuccessful 
 in finding any thing but a few quails : the prairie fowls 
 which were so abundant on the great plain between 
 Victoria and Indianola had disappeared. 
 
 A calf was killed and brought into camp by one of 
 the men, who declared that he took it for a deer ; and a 
 few hours after several claimants appeared demanding 
 pay for the animal. They did not come together, nor 
 did either of them know that there were other appli- 
 cants besides himself. The first, on my questioning him 
 as to the color of the calf, said it was black. The next 
 one said it was red, and a very valuable animal, more 
 so indeed than a full-grown ox. A third declared it to 
 be of some other color. I expressed my willingness 
 to pay for the slaughtered innocent if I could know its 
 rightful owner, and requested the several applicants to 
 call on me again towards evening. In the mean time I 
 sent for the skin, which was not found to correspond 
 with the description given by either of the claimants, 
 whom. I then dismissed. 
 
24 INDIANOLA 
 
 The wagons and mules continued to arrive at the 
 camp ; but when I was expecting soon to move, I 
 learned that Colonel McClellan was seriously ill at his 
 quarters in Victoria. So ill was he that many feared 
 he would be unable to continue the journey. Dr. 
 Bigelow, surgeon of the commission, remained to 
 attend him. 
 
 While we lay here waiting for the remainder of the 
 party, the wagons were overhauled, reloaded, and some 
 additional teams added by purchase. Not being able 
 to get all we wanted, a few were hired to aid in trans- 
 porting the stores to San Antonio, where the quarter- 
 master expected to complete his purchase of wagons 
 and mules. 
 
 September 20th. Colonel McClellan having so far 
 recovered as to join the camp, I gave orders to move 
 to-morrow morning at daylight. Every thing, therefore, 
 not absolutely necessary, was stored in the wagons, 
 and preparations made for an early start. 
 
 September 21st. The bugle sounded at half past three 
 o'clock ; breakfast was dispatched before the sun had 
 risen ; and ere the morning mist, which, arising from 
 the river, hung over our camp, had disappeared, we 
 were on our way. The morning was cool and pleasant, 
 and I was desirous to reach our proposed camping 
 spot before noon. This was the first day's march of 
 the whole party ; and as the wagons were heavily 
 laden, I did not think it best to press the animals too 
 much at the start. 
 
 Our route was over a country of alternate prairie 
 and woodland, with an excellent road. After a march 
 of fifteen miles, the main body encamped at Manahuila : 
 
TO SAN ANTONIO. 25 
 
 while I with a small party rode on five miles further to 
 Goliad, having some business to transact at that place, 
 which I reached at 12 o'clock. Here I found Mr. F. 
 Wheaton and Mr. Scott, assistants in the surveying 
 party, who had been taken ill and were obliged to remain 
 behind. 
 
 Towards evening Judge Lea, a gentleman of enter- 
 prise and a large landholder, called on me and invited 
 me to his house at Old Goliad about two miles distant. 
 He took a deep interest in the survey we were then 
 making from Indianola to San Antonio, and had accom- 
 panied the surveying party when it passed through his 
 lands a day or two before my arrival. Crossed the river 
 in a log canoe, and reached the Judge's residence, a 
 venerable and ruined church, just at sunset. Took a 
 brief view of the ruins of the ancient town while the 
 dim twilight remained. 
 
 The present town of Goliad is about two miles from 
 the former town, and at the time of my visit contained 
 about two hundred inhabitants. The old place, which 
 is now in ruins, is situated upon a hill directly upon 
 the west bank of the San Antonio River, at its highest 
 navigable point, and formerly contained several thou- 
 sand inhabitants. It was originally a Spanish Mission, 
 instituted for the purpose of christianizing the Indians, 
 and united within one inclosure a church and fort, 
 while numerous dwellings were clustered under the 
 protection of its guns. The date of its establishment 
 is not known with certainty, the accounts varying from 
 one to two hundred years. The church is the only 
 building in any tolerable preservation, except two or 
 three houses which have been restored, provided with 
 
26 I INDIANOLA 
 
 new roofs, and made into very comfortable dwellings — 
 better, indeed, than modern builders would think of 
 erecting. The church seems to have been designed for 
 the double purpose of a church and a castle. Its mas- 
 sive walls on every side, which measure four feet in 
 thickness, are cemented with waterlime ; and to its 
 great strength is owing its fine state of preservation. 
 Its extreme length is 90 feet, its breadth 27 feet. 
 Its roof is a single stone arch from wall to wall, sus- 
 tained by small buildings or cloisters which project 
 from the sides, and which are connected with the main 
 edifice ; a parapet rises above the roof, behind which 
 cannon were formerly planted. 
 
 In the various domestic wars of Mexico this was an 
 important place, and frequently changed hands ; nor 
 was its importance lost during the struggle for Texan 
 independence, when it was occupied by the Mexican as 
 well as the Texan forces. Its original name was La 
 Bahia del Espiritu Santo, the Bay Town of Espiritu 
 Santo, because it was originally the place for collect- 
 ing the revenue of the small ports upon the bay. Hence 
 all persons arriving on the bay with merchandise were 
 obliged to go forty miles into the interior to find the 
 officer of the customs, to whom they had to pay their 
 duties. Similar inconveniences exist at the present 
 day in Mexico, on the Pacific coast : the collector of the 
 port of Manzanillo, for instance, resides at the city of 
 Colima, ninety miles in the interior. This name of La 
 Bahia was changed by the Spaniards about thirty years 
 since, when it began to decay as a religious establish- 
 ment, to that of Goliad, on account of its great strength. 
 
 Around the church are some twenty or more ru- 
 
TO SAN ANTONIO. 27 
 
 ined buildings of stone, with nothing but their walls 
 standing. One of these extends about 150 feet south- 
 ward, and appears, from its small apartments, to have 
 been constructed for barracks : its walls, like those of 
 the church, are very massive. A high wall seems once 
 to have surrounded the church, but much of it now lies 
 prostrate. The other buildings, which are detached and 
 of various dimensions, were chiefly used as dwellings. 
 The whole town is in ruins, and presents a scene of de- 
 solation, which to an American is at once novel and 
 interesting. Each succeeding capture, of course, im- 
 paired the buildings ; and after the decisive battle of 
 San Jacinto, the Mexicans evacuated it and destroyed 
 it as far as they were able. The material of these build- 
 ings is a soft white sandstone, which underlays the 
 town, and which appears to become hardened when 
 exposed to the air. 
 
 We enjoyed the hospitalities of Judge Lea, who is 
 domiciliated in the old church, the interior being in 
 good condition. To this gentleman we are indebted 
 for many facilities for visiting the ruins, and for much 
 information respecting the country adjacent. He had 
 partitioned the church with a slight frame-work about 
 ten feet high, which was covered with calico or brown 
 cotton, the top being open ; making it a very comforta- 
 ble place for the greater portion of the year. After tea 
 we ascended to the roof, to enjoy the cool breeze of the 
 evening, and the beautiful landscape which there opens 
 to the view. Situated on an eminence, the country 
 can be seen for a great distance around. After the 
 moon arose and cast a deep shadow from the ruined 
 walls, and the long belt of fire from the burning prairie 
 
28 INDIANOLA 
 
 shed its red glare on the few clouds that flitted across 
 it, the scene assumed an aspect of peculiar solemnity 
 and interest. We lingered long to enjoy the fairy -like 
 vision, and until the fatigues of the day warned us that 
 it was time to retire. 
 
 The sword has truly given place to the plough- 
 share here ; and the inclosure which has been the scene 
 of many a bloody fight, is now employed by the Judge 
 as an experimental garden, in which he has demonstrat- 
 ed the capacity of the soil and climate to produce any 
 of the great Southern crops of cotton, corn, and sugar, 
 as well as the choicest garden vegetables. The church 
 is especially notorious as having been the place where 
 Fannin and his men were confined and massacred. We 
 were fortunate enough to meet with a gentleman, 
 Judge H,, who was one of the prisoners, and whose 
 singular escape may be worth relating. 
 
 After the battle of Perdida Creek, between Fannin 
 and 275 men on one side, and Urrea with 900 Mexi- 
 cans on the other, articles of capitulation were signed, 
 according to which, those who surrendered were to 
 be treated as prisoners of war, and either released 
 on parole or sent to some port upon the bay. The 
 articles were drawn up within the Texan lines, and all 
 was arranged in good faith. The prisoners were con- 
 fined within the fortress of Goliad, where they met 
 others of their countrymen, sufficient in number to 
 make up four hundred. When Santa Anna was in- 
 formed of their capture, he sent orders for them to be 
 shot. The officers in command remonstrated, but the 
 order was repeated peremptorily. The massacre took 
 place upon the 27th March, 1836, eight days after the 
 
TO SAN ANTONIO. 29 
 
 battle. The prisoners were marched out of the fort in 
 three divisions, full of high expectations that the time 
 of their release had arrived, and were shot down 
 almost simultaneously by the Mexican soldiery. The 
 gentleman above referred to was in the second divi- 
 sion, and owes his escape to the most wonderful pre- 
 sence of mind. As his division was marching out, he 
 heard the report of the muskets, which were fired upon 
 the preceding division. Instantly the truth flashed 
 upon his mind, and his course of action was decided. 
 As he saw the lips of the Mexican officer move to 
 give the order for the soldiers to fire, he fell upon 
 his face as if dead. The soldiers stood within six feet 
 of the prisoners, and fired with fixed bayonets. As 
 soon as they had fired, they rushed upon the victims 
 with their bayonets to complete the slaughter. Judge 
 H. was pierced through the shoulder, bearing the 
 wound without showing signs of life. After the exe- 
 cution, the scavengers and camp followers came to rob 
 the dead. A Mexican, in cutting away his hunting 
 shirt to get at his coat which was beneath, wounded him 
 in the neck, at which he let escape some expression of 
 pain ; whereupon the Mexican, finding him still alive, 
 beat him upon the head with the butt of his escopetto 
 until he supposed life extinct, and then went on with his 
 robbery. All this time the Judge retained a conscious- 
 ness of his situation ; and when all had left the bloody 
 scene, he crawled, as well as his remaining strength 
 would allow, to some concealment near the river, and 
 at dark made his escape. After wandering three days 
 without food, he obtained assistance from some kind- 
 hearted Mexicans, and finally reached the coast in safety. 
 
30 1NDIANOLA 
 
 As near as can be ascertained, about 375 Texans 
 fell victims to this treachery. They are all buried in 
 one common grave, with no other monument than the 
 prison's ruined walls. 
 
 The situation of Old Goliad is well chosen, and 
 from the top of the old church a view of surpassing 
 beauty is obtained. The fertile valley of the San An- 
 tonio lies below ; and all around the land stretches 
 away in gentle undulations, not densely enough wooded 
 to form a wilderness, but bearing here and there 
 clumps of trees, disposed so regularly as to give the 
 landscape a rural aspect. So closely do the clusters 
 of live-oaks resemble orchards, and the recently burnt 
 prairies, with the newly-springing grass, meadows, 
 that one finds it difficult to convince himself that he 
 is not passing through a highly cultivated district. 
 Upon the opposite side of the river are the ruins of 
 another mission — the Aranama — named from a tribe 
 of Indians now extinct. This building, like the 
 church before described, was surrounded with the 
 ruins of lesser ones. It is of smaller dimensions than 
 the one tenanted by Judge H. ; but with restored walls, 
 openings for windows, and a modern roof, it has been 
 changed into a comfortable dwelling. It is occupied 
 by a gentleman from New York, who lives in a style 
 of elegance that we were quite unprepared to meet 
 with in Western Texas. 
 
 Visited to-day the camp of Mr. Bull, a portion 
 of whose party was near Goliad. They had made 
 good progress with their survey ; but, though they 
 had met with no serious obstacles, had suffered much 
 from the intense heat on the open prairies, where 
 
TO SAN ANTONIO. 31 
 
 they could obtain no shelter from the mid-day sun. 
 Joined the train, and moved on six or eight miles, to 
 the banks of the Cabeza, a small stream, and encamped 
 in a grove of trees near by. 
 
 September 22d, Sunday. Remained in camp. The 
 grass being excellent, our animals had the advantage 
 of good feed. Held service beneath a large tree, which 
 was attended by the greater portion of the Commis- 
 sion. 
 
 September 23d. The cooks were called at three 
 o'clock, and our breakfast dispatched by the break of 
 day. This enabled us to move by five o'clock, and to 
 reach our intended place of encampment, known as the 
 Ojo de Agua, or Water Eye, before noon. 
 
 September 2Mli. Left at five o'clock, and after 
 travelling over an excellent road, reached the Sebilla 
 River, a rather diminutive stream to receive the appel- 
 lation of river, and encamped upon its banks. Dis- 
 tance travelled, twenty-one miles. 
 
 September 25th. Took an early start, as usual. 
 More timber appeared, and of a larger growth than 
 we had observed towards the coast. The live-oak in 
 particular, which had been of a stunted or dwarfish 
 appearance, now assumed the stateliness of northern 
 latitudes. Our ascent was more perceptible to-day 
 than any day since our departure from the coast. 
 Reached the San Antonio River at ten o'clock, and 
 pitched our tents near a cluster of Mexican ranches. 
 Distance travelled, seventeen miles. 
 
 A sad event occurred in camp this afternoon, which 
 resulted in the death of one of our Mexican neighbors, 
 who had been furnishing us with meat and other arti- 
 
32 INDIANOLA 
 
 cles. While sitting in my tent in the afternoon, I 
 heard the report of a pistol quite near, and immedi- 
 ately after saw a number of men and women running 
 towards one of the ranches. I hastened to follow, 
 and found a man lying on his back with the mark 
 of a gun shot in his breast, which I was told had been 
 inflicted by one of our teamsters named Green. The 
 wounded man appeared to be about thirty years of 
 age, and was surrounded by his father, mother, wife 
 and four children. His brothers and sisters were also 
 around him. Doctors Bigelow and Webb were in im- 
 mediate attendance, and rendered all the aid possible. 
 But as they pronounced the wound a mortal one, but 
 little could be done for him, and he died in two hours. 
 
 The particulars of the murder were briefly these : 
 While Green, the teamster, was gathering wood, he 
 attempted to take some portion of a fence ; when the 
 deceased, who owned the farm and wood, ordered 
 him off, at the same time drawing a jack-knife and 
 pointing it towards him. Green dropped a portion of 
 the wood, and returned to his fire with the remainder. 
 He then took his pistol, a large revolver, and came back 
 for the wood he had dropped. The man who had 
 ordered him off was still there, and approached Green 
 with his knife open. The latter, when within three 
 feet of him, leisurely drew his pistol and discharged 
 it at the Mexican's breast. The wounded man ran 
 towards his ranche, but fell before he had reached the 
 door. 
 
 I immediately caused Green to be arrested ; though 
 I found that during my visit to the ranch, he had 
 been to my tent to confess the deed. He came for- 
 
TO SAN ANTONIO. 33 
 
 ward at once, and related the facts as previously stated 
 to me. My intention was now to keep a guard over 
 the prisoner, and deliver him to the authorities on our 
 arrival at San Antonio ; for which purpose he was 
 placed in a tent, with two men to guard him. 
 
 I stated to the family that the prisoner should be 
 delivered to the authorities for trial, which in a mea- 
 sure pacified them. But for this, an attempt would 
 doubtless have been made to take his life, word 
 having been sent to the neighboring ranches of the 
 occurrence. The man, I told them, was not a mem- 
 ber of the Commission, but a Texan teamster, hired at 
 Indianola. Afterwards, learning the poverty of the 
 family, that the deceased was its main stay, and that 
 the expense of the funeral would be great, I gave the 
 father one hundred dollars. 
 
 During the evening, before the guards had been 
 posted, and while our people were moving to and 
 fro, the prisoner raised the back of the tent, unseen 
 by the guard and others who were sitting near the 
 entrance, crept to the outer lines of the camp, leaped 
 on a horse which was staked near, and escaped under 
 cover of the darkness. No more was heard of either 
 horse or rider, though it was believed that some of 
 the friends of the teamster had aided him in making 
 his escape. 
 
 September 26th. Our march to-day brought us to 
 the Cibolo (corrupted by the Texans into Sea- Wil- 
 low) River, where we encamped. 
 
 /September 2*1 th. Took an early start, and reached 
 the city of San Antonio at two o'clock, distant 
 twenty-one miles. Having much to attend to in 
 
34 INDIANOLA 
 
 completing the outfit of the party, I took up my 
 quarters at the Verandah Hotel, while the rest of the 
 Commission encamped on the banks of the river, about 
 four miles from the city. Colonel Craig, with the 
 escort, had not been with us on the march from Indi- 
 anola. As no protection was yet required, he proceed- 
 ed, immediately on landing at that place, to his camp 
 near San Antonio, where his train was preparing for 
 him. 
 
 September 28th. Another sad event took place 
 to-day. In making up the party for our journey to 
 El Paso, it was necessary to procure teamsters in Texas, 
 no men having been engaged at the north for such 
 duty. When we started from Indianola, four or five- 
 persons who had been engaged for other duties under- 
 took to drive teams. All the others had to be pro- 
 cured there or at Victoria ; and the quartermaster was 
 obliged to take such men as he could find, giving in 
 all cases the preference to such as had been in the 
 government employ, or who could bring good re- 
 commendation. But with all his care, several despe- 
 rate characters were engaged. One of these, named 
 Turner, had had a quarrel with Mr. Tennant, the 
 butcher in the employ of the Commission, a very 
 worthy man who had accompanied us from Washing- 
 ton. In the camp to-day they were seen having high 
 words. Turner, it appears, had endeavored on sev- 
 eral occasions to get the former into a fight without 
 success. To-day Tennant was heard to say that he 
 had no fears of Turner, if he would lay aside his knife 
 and other weapons, and fight him fairly ; at the same 
 time drawing a small knife from its sheath and throw- 
 
TO SAN ANTONIO. 35 
 
 ing it from him. No sooner was this done, than 
 Turner drew his long bowie-knife and rushed upon him, 
 plunging it into the side of Tennant, and causing his 
 death in half an hour. The murderer sheathed his 
 knife, and hastened to a horse which stood near. In 
 another moment he was mounted, and, riding at full 
 speed, he disappeared in the thick chapporal, or thorny 
 bushes, near the camp. 
 
 This transaction took place in the very midst of 
 the camp ; but as broils and altercations were not 
 uncommon among the teamsters, and as no one antici- 
 pated what was to follow, Tennant being a very ath- 
 letic man, they did not interfere. In fact, from the 
 statements made to me, the affair was so sudden that it 
 scarcely admitted of any interference. But the blow 
 of the murderer, and his subsequent escape, were wit- 
 nessed by many. The whole camp was immediately 
 in motion ; horses were saddled, and several started 
 in pursuit. The chapporal was high and thick ; yet the 
 pursuers, regardless of the difficulty and danger of rid- 
 ing through its thorny recesses, dashed on, and soon 
 caught sight of the object of their pursuit. In a 
 short time the two foremost of the party, Mr. Robert 
 E. Matthews, and Mr. J. E. Weems, assistants in the 
 engineer corps, succeeded in overtaking Turner, when, 
 presenting their pistols, they compelled him to sur- 
 render. Having been disarmed, and others of the pur- 
 suers coming up, the prisoner was carried in safety to 
 the camp. Great credit is due to Messrs. Matthews 
 and Weems for their activity and courage in captur- 
 ing this desperate man. 
 
 A detachment from the engineer corps brought 
 
36 INDIANOLA 
 
 their prisoner to me at San Antonio, and I immediately 
 placed him in the hands of the sheriff of the county. 
 Soon after, I saw him lodged in jail and handcuffed. 
 
 Although this affair did not attract much public 
 attention, such things being of frequent occurrence at 
 the time, yet, among the class to which the murderer 
 belonged, there was much excitement, and threats were 
 heard that an attempt might be made during the night to 
 effect his release. The prison being an adobe building 
 and quite insecure, I deemed it my duty to detail a guard 
 of six men from the Commission to the jail for the night. 
 
 The following day an examination took place before 
 the mayor, the Hon. J. M. Devine. Many witnesses 
 were examined ; and the result was the committal of 
 the prisoner, to take his trial for murder. I learnt 
 some months after that he was found guilty, and sen- 
 tenced to fifteen years imprisonment. He remained in 
 prison about two years ; but on my return from the 
 survey, I heard that he had made his escape. 
 
 Murders were common in Texas about the time of 
 my visit in 1850 ; and it had been too often the case 
 that the guilty escaped justice. At this time the laws 
 were better executed ; and now (1853) there is as much 
 security for life and property as in the older States of 
 the Union. Frontier States often contain a bad popula- 
 tion, at least such is the case in their early history. At 
 the time of the annexation of Texas, large numbers of 
 vicious and worthless men, some of whom had commit- 
 ted crimes and eluded the hands of justice, had sought 
 a home here, where law and order had not then 
 been firmly established : life and property were little 
 regarded by them. But since the laws have come to be 
 
TO SAN ANTONIO. 37 
 
 more rigidly enforced, these desperadoes have found it 
 necessary either to adopt more honest modes of living, 
 or to take refuge on the very borders of Texas and New 
 Mexico, where they can pursue their old courses with 
 impunity, by crossing over when necessary into Mexico. 
 
 My servant who was taken ill on the march up, 
 here died of fever : several others were attacked, but 
 soon recovered. 
 
 As San Antonio was the last place at which sup- 
 plies could be procured, and the train fitted out for the 
 long march of nearly 700 miles, it was necessary to 
 make it as complete as possible. We yet required a large 
 number of mules and many wagons to transport the 
 public stores, which had been sent forward in hired 
 wagons. The quartermaster therefore found it necessary 
 to increase the train to about 56 teams, which included 
 sixteen Mexican carts, the latter drawn by three yoke 
 of oxen each : some of the wagons, too, were of the 
 largest description, and drawn by ten mules or five 
 yoke of oxen. These, with some additional riding ani- 
 mals, and their equipments of saddles, bridles, etc., com- 
 pleted the means of transportation for the Commission 
 and its stores. 
 
 We also procured here about a hundred head of 
 beef cattle, to be driven with the train, and used on 
 the march. The draught oxen I also intended to fat- 
 ten after our arrival in the field of operations, for a 
 future supply of beef ; so that we were pretty well pro- 
 vided in this department of our subsistence. A few 
 barrels of pork and some small stores were also added 
 to our stock here : some additional arms, ammunition, 
 tents, and camp equipage, finished our outfit. 
 
38 INDIANOLA 
 
 From the lateness of the season there was an uncer- 
 tainty about grass ; furthermore, by the recent arrivals 
 from El Paso, I learned that the prairies had been 
 burned by the Indians a considerable portion of the 
 way, and that it would be absolutely necessary to trans- 
 port a considerable quantity of corn to keep the ani- 
 mals in good trim, and enable them to cross the desert 
 portions of the route. The quartermaster, therefore, 
 sent in advance to the military post on the Leona, 90 
 miles distant, several wagon-loads of corn, and made 
 arrangements to carry as much in the train as pos- 
 sible, without overburdening it. In these various pre- 
 parations, and the shoeing of the additional animals, 
 about two weeks were spent. During this time the 
 party remained encamped at the San Pedro Springs, 
 about a mile and a half from the town. These springs, 
 of which there are several, gush out of crevices in the 
 limestone rock ; and their united waters form a small 
 river, which runs through the town, and unites with the 
 San Antonio three or four miles below it. 
 
 The view of San Antonio from a distance, as it is 
 approached by the Victoria road, is exceedingly beau- 
 tiful. The place seems to be embowered in trees, 
 above which the dome of the church swells with an 
 air quite Oriental. But this pleasing impression is 
 soon dissipated on entering the town, and making 
 one's way among the filthy. buildings of the Mexican 
 suburbs to the plaza, or public square. The town is a 
 strange mixture of massive old Spanish buildings and 
 recent American structures. But upon the plaza the 
 modern buildings have for the most part superseded 
 the ancient; though some few remain, seeming lost 
 
TO SAN ANTONIO. 39 
 
 and out of place in the company of their smart-looking 
 neighbors. The old church still occupies its promi- 
 nent position in the plaza. This is a building charac- 
 terized rather by solidity than beauty, and has as 
 much the appearance of a citadel as of a church. In- 
 deed, during one of the battles of the war of Texan 
 independence, it was occupied by the Mexican troops, 
 and its tower still bears the scars made by the cannon 
 balls of the besiegers. 
 
 San Antonio is delightfully situated. The rivers 
 San Antonio and San Pedro run through the place. 
 The latter is a small stream, and with us would hardly 
 be dignified with the title of river. The San Anto- 
 nio is much the larger of the two. It rises about 
 three miles from the town, from a number of large 
 springs, flowing, like those forming the San Pedro, 
 from the solid rock. The largest of these is worth a 
 visit. The water rises in a cavity some six or eight 
 feet in diameter and twelve or fifteen feet deep, and 
 rushes out in an immense volume. The water of these 
 springs unite with Olmos Creek, forming a river, which, 
 in its course towards the sea, receives the Medina, 
 Salado, Cibolo, and other tributaries, and finally, 
 uniting with the Guadalupe, empties into Espiritu 
 Santo Bay. The San Antonio is capable of affording 
 immense water power. At present, in its course 
 through the town, it turns but one wheel, and that 
 simply by the flow of the current. 
 
 San Antonio contains about 6000 inhabitants, of 
 which number it is estimated two thirds are Mex- 
 icans, Germans, and French. Yet, notwithstanding 
 this preponderance of other nations, the town is es- 
 
40 INDIANOLA 
 
 sentially American in its character. Mexican indo- 
 lence cannot stand by the side of the energy and 
 industry of the Americans and Europeans ; and the new 
 comers are rapidly elbowing the old settlers to one 
 side. Some few of the Mexicans have the good sense 
 to fall in with the spirit of progress ; but the great 
 majority draw back before it, and live upon the out- 
 skirts of the town in the primitive style of their fore- 
 fathers. 
 
 f 
 Situated in the centre of a rich agricultural region, 
 
 San Antonio is destined to be a place of much impor- 
 tance. The necessity of a railroad communication 
 with the coast is severely felt, and energetic move- 
 ments are making to establish it. At present the sup- 
 plies of merchandise are brought from the coast by 
 the slow medium of ox carts. These are driven by 
 Mexicans, and in a favorable condition of the roads 
 make the trip in six days. The business of freighting 
 almost entirely supports the Mexican population of 
 the city and its vicinity. The American people are 
 too much imbued with the spirit of progress to 
 engage in any business that partakes of the past. The 
 idea of carrying on commerce with ox carts, and 
 making 130 miles in six days, over an excellent road, 
 might do for the past century, not for this steam and 
 lightning age. « 
 
 Large trains frequently leave here for El Paso, 
 Eagle Pass, and other points on the Mexican frontier, 
 and often penetrate to Chihuahua, Parras, and other 
 Mexican cities. Those engaged in the Mexican trade 
 are beginning to see the advantages the route through 
 Texas possesses over the long one from Missouri, by 
 
TO SAN ANTONIO. 41 
 
 way of Santa Fe ; and doubtless ere long all merchan- 
 dise for the northern part of Mexico will pass this 
 way. 
 
 One of the principal objects of interest to the 
 stranger in San Antonio is the Alamo, memorable for 
 its brave defence by Travis, Crockett, Bowie, and 
 others, who only gave up the contest with their lives. 
 The building was originally a mission. It is now 
 occupied as a storehouse by the United States Quarter- 
 master's Department, and retains but little of its former 
 appearance. The principal doorway, ornamented in 
 the Moorish style, remains tolerably perfect. 
 
 We saw in the County Clerk's office a large col- 
 lection of old Spanish documents, which have been 
 accumulating ever since the first settlement of the town. 
 Doubtless their careful perusal by some persevering 
 antiquary would develope many interesting facts con- 
 nected with the early history of the country. It is to 
 be hoped, that measures will ere long be taken by the 
 enterprising State to which they relate to rescue them 
 from oblivion and decay, and cause them to be collated 
 and given to the world. The Northern States have 
 spent immense sums in sending agents to England, 
 France, and Holland, to procure similar papers from 
 the State archives to illustrate their Colonial history. 
 Texas possesses in her own record offices voluminous 
 documents of equal value, in which the scholar and 
 historian of every State feels an interest second only 
 to that of her own people. 
 
 Near the town and upon the banks of the San An- 
 tonio River are the remains of extensive mission esta- 
 blishments. We found time to pay a short visit to. 
 
42 
 
 INDIANOLA 
 
 those of San Jose, San Juan, and Concepcion. There 
 is another, La Espeda, which we did not visit. 
 
 A ride of about five miles through a mezquit 
 country brought us to the mission of San Jose, situated 
 upon the right bank of the river. This was the largest 
 and wealthiest mission; and its buildings were con- 
 structed with greater display of art, and still remain in 
 better preservation, than the others. Entering the in- 
 
 Mission of San Jose, Texas. 
 
 .closure formed by the granary and other out-buildings, 
 we alighted in front of the main edifice or church. 
 This is constructed of stone, and plastered. The princi- 
 pal doorway is surrounded by elaborate carving, which 
 extends the whole length of the front, and includes 
 numerous figures, among which San Jose, the patron of 
 
TO SAN ANTONIO. 43 
 
 the church, and the Virgin and Child are conspicuous. 
 The material of this work has the appearance of stone ; 
 but we found on examination that it was a hard kind 
 of stucco. The action of the weather has done much 
 to destroy the figures ; and the work of ruin has been 
 assisted by the numerous military companies near here, 
 who, finding in the hands and features of the statues 
 convenient marks for rifle and pistol shots, did not fail 
 to improve the opportunity for showing at the same 
 time their skill in arms and their contempt for the 
 Mexican belief. That portion of the front of the church 
 not covered with carving, was ornamented with a sort 
 of stencilling in colors, chiefly red and blue. But few 
 traces of this have withstood the rain. The most per- 
 fect portion of the church is an oval window in the 
 sacristy, which is surrounded with scrolls and wreath- 
 work of exceeding grace and beauty. 
 
 The interior presents but little of interest. The 
 dampness has destroyed the frescoes upon the walls, 
 and the altar has been stripped of its decorations. It 
 is now seldom used for religious purposes ; as the Mexi- 
 cans of the neighborhood are poor, and cannot often 
 afford the fifty dollars charged by the San Antonio 
 priests for officiating. 
 
 The convent in the rear of the church, as that por- 
 tion of the building occupied by the fathers is called, 
 remains in tolerable preservation, and is at present 
 inhabited by an American who cultivates the adjoining 
 lands. A fine view of the surrounding country may 
 be had by ascending the tower, which is accomplished 
 in part by means of a spiral staircase, and in part by 
 a rude ladder, consisting of a stick of timber with 
 
44 
 
 INDIANOLA 
 
 notches cut in its sides. The plan of the building evi- 
 dently included two towers ; but only one of them was 
 ever completed. 
 
 About two miles below San Jose, and upon the 
 opposite side of the river, are the ruins of San Juan. 
 This was never a building of much pretensions, and is 
 in a more ruinous state than San Jose. The interior 
 shows the remains of some exceedingly rude paintings ; 
 and we noticed that the earthen floor was broken up in 
 several places where graves had recently been made. 
 
 It was late when we reached Concepcion, which is 
 
 Mission of Concepcion, Texas. 
 
 nearer the town than either of the other missions. The 
 two towers and dome of the church make quite an 
 imposing appearance when seen from a distance ; but 
 
TO SAN ANTONIO. 45 
 
 on approaching it, we found it not only desolated but 
 desecrated ; the church portion being used as an in- 
 closure for cattle, the filth from which covered the floor 
 to the depth of a foot or more. Myriads of bats flitted 
 about, which chattered and screamed at our invasion 
 of their territory ; and we found nothing of interest 
 within the church to repay us for encountering their 
 disagreeable presence. 
 
46 SAN ANTONIO 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 SAN ANTONIO TO FREDERICKSBURG. 
 
 Advanced party formed for the journey to El Paso — Arms and equipments 
 — Mode of travel — General order — Storm on the Prairie — Guadalupe 
 river — Refinement among the German settlers on its banks — Terraced 
 hills of Texas — Mormons in the valley of the Piedernales — Fredericks- 
 burg. 
 
 The long though necessary delay in getting the train 
 ready to move, and the slowness with which it would 
 probably proceed, convinced me that it would not be 
 possible for it to reach El Paso on the first Monday of 
 November, the 4th of the month, the day fixed upon 
 for the meeting of the Joint Commission. After 
 advising with General Brooke, Colonel Johnston, and 
 others, as to the practicability and safety of my pro- 
 ceeding in advance with a small party, I came to the 
 determination to do so, and announced my intention 
 to the members of the Commission, requesting to be 
 notified of such as would volunteer to accompany me. 
 The whole would willingly have gone, although the 
 proposed journey would be attended with severer 
 duties and considerable danger, as we should not have 
 the advantage of a military escort, which must remain 
 with the main body of the Commission and its stores. 
 
TO FREDERICKSBURG. 
 
 47 
 
 I selected the following gentlemen for the advance 
 party. 
 
 Thomas H. Webb, 
 Robert C. Murphy, 
 George Thurber, 
 Theodore F. Moss, 
 John C. Cremony, 
 Edward C. Clark, 
 
 Sec. to the Joint Commission. 
 
 Asst. Secretary and Clerk. 
 
 Botanist and Commissary. 
 
 Geologist. 
 
 Interpreter. 
 
 Quartermaster. 
 
 Robert E. Matthews, Assistants in the Engineer and 
 
 John B. Stewart, " Surveying Corps. 
 
 Thomas Thompson, 
 
 S. P. Sandford, 
 
 J. Thomas McDuffie, 
 
 Thomas Dunn, 
 
 George G. Garner, 
 
 J. E. Weems, Jr., 
 
 Clement Young, 
 
 C. Neville Simms, 
 
 George S. Peirce, 
 
 A. P. Wilbar, 
 R. B. Smith, Mason • G. W. Miller, Blacksmith • Wm. 
 Garratt, Harness-maker • William Ferguson, Carpen- 
 ter • Thomas Briggs, Tailor. These with cooks, serv- 
 ants, hunters, and teamsters, making altogether thirty 
 persons, constituted the party. 
 
 The main body of the Commission, which did not 
 leave until several days later, intended taking the 
 Southern route, which had been more travelled and 
 was better known than the Northern one, by the way 
 of Fredericksburg. But with the advice of those who 
 had lately come over the Northern route, I determined 
 to take that. The distance was said to be about thirty 
 
48 SAN ANTONIO 
 
 miles less, and there was a prospect of finding better 
 grass. 
 
 October 10th. Although orders had been given to 
 have every thing in readiness to start early this morn- 
 ing, on going out to the camp on the San Pedro, I 
 found the train was not ready. Being determined to 
 move if I did not get a mile, and the wagons having at 
 last been geared up, we took leave of our friends at 
 4 o'clock in the afternoon, and reached a pool of water 
 four and half miles distant just before dark. 
 
 My train now consisted of six wagons, each drawn by 
 five mules, and my carriage by four : the latter was what 
 is called in New York a Rockaway. It was a large 
 vehicle with close sides and windows, and so arranged 
 that it could in a few minutes be turned into an excel- 
 lent sleeping 'place ; it was so occupied by me during the 
 whole journey to El Paso. It might also with propriety 
 be termed an armory, and did receive that appellation 
 from the number of fire-arms contained in it. First, 
 there was suspended at the top a double barrelled-gun, 
 while to one of the uprights was affixed my rifle, one 
 of Sharp's repeaters ; a heavy revolver, one of Colt's 
 six-shooters, was strapped to each door; and Dr. Webb 
 (who rode with me) and I were both provided with a 
 pair of Colt's five shooters. My carriage driver carried 
 a pair of Deringer pistols. We were thus enabled, in 
 case of necessity, to discharge a round of thirty-seven 
 shots without reloading ; besides which, Sharp's rifle 
 could be fired at least six times in a minute. I also car- 
 ried a spy -glass, barometer, lantern, and a variety of 
 tools and other articles which we had constant occasion 
 for on the road. The rest of the party were mounted 
 
TO FREDERICKSBURG. 49 
 
 on horses or mules, and I occasionally resorted to a 
 mule by way of variety ; for it is a dull mode of tra-. 
 veiling to be dragged slowly along for eight or ten 
 hours a day cramped up in a carriage. I also made it 
 a point to walk a few miles every day on starting, which 
 practice was followed by others. 
 
 Every man in my party was well armed, the officers 
 with Colt's revolvers and a rifle ; the mechanics, la- 
 borers, cooks, and servants, with rifles, and the team- 
 sters with pistols or rifles. 
 
 We seldom moved at a faster gait than a walk ; as 1 
 did not wish to run the risk of fatiguing the mules or 
 breaking them down, while the feed was scanty, and 
 there were no means of making good any losses of ani- 
 mals. By setting out at 7 o'clock, which was as early 
 as we could get off on an average, we could make about 
 twenty miles by two o'clock, which gave the animals time 
 to graze before night, when it was necessary to bring 
 them all in. An earlier start might have been made, 
 but the animals had to be fed first ; and when there was 
 good grazing, they were turned out at daylight for the 
 purpose. 
 
 On leaving camp, one half the horsemen took the 
 lead as an escort ; for the timid mules are always reluc- 
 tant to lead off, and do much better when a horse is in 
 advance. I followed with my carriage, when not 
 mounted on my mule ; the train.of wagons came next, 
 with a few horsemen alongside ; and the cooks, servants, 
 etc., brought up the rear. 
 
 On reaching a camping ground, we formed what is 
 called on the prairies, and by all overland travellers, 
 a corral, or inclosure, to serve as a protection for men 
 
50 SAN ANTONIO 
 
 and animals. When there is a good number of wagons 
 in a train, a very large inclosure may be formed, suffi- 
 cient to contain the tents and all the animals ; but my 
 small train of seven vehicles was too limited for that : 
 the wagons were therefore arranged in a semicircle, and 
 the tents pitched along the base. After the animals had 
 been " corralled" a stout rope was drawn across in 
 rear of the tents, to prevent their escaping should any 
 get loose. When the ground would admit of a large 
 corral, the animals were staked inside, but they were 
 generally made fast by halters, or lariats, to the pole 
 of the wagons for the night ; and in this position, corn 
 was fed to them when we had it. The following order 
 was issued on leaving San Antonio : 
 
 " General Order for the government of the Advance Party 
 
 of the U. S. Mexican Boundary Commission, on its 
 
 march from San Antonio to El Paso del Norte. 
 
 "As this portion of the Commission is entering a 
 country inhabited by warlike tribes of Indians, where 
 no resources can be had beyond what the prairies sup- 
 ply, it is absolutely necessary that a rigid observance 
 be kept of the following order : 
 
 " The same organization of the cavalry company 
 formed at Indianola, will be continued to El Paso. 
 
 " Mr. Geo. S. Peirce, commanding the cavalry, will 
 act as master of the camp, detailing for the guard what- 
 ever force may be deemed necessary for the safety of 
 the train. 
 
 "Every member of the Commission, the teamsters 
 and cooks excepted, is expected to do guard duty. 
 
 " The train and escort will keep as close together 
 
TO FREDERICKSBURG. 51 
 
 as possible ; and after leaving Fredericksburg, no one 
 will be permitted to leave the train beyond a short 
 limit. 
 
 " Mr. Cremony will take charge of the ammunition, 
 inspect the arms, and report in what manner every man 
 is armed. Economy must be used in the ammunition, 
 as the quantity in the train is limited. 
 
 " As there is one Jornada of seventy miles without 
 water, and we may suffer inconvenience elsewhere, 
 every man who has not already provided himself with 
 a canteen or gourd, will do so before leaving Frede- 
 ricksburg. 
 
 " In case of any difficulty or accident to the wagons, 
 it is expected that every one will lend all the aid in his 
 power to remove it, and hasten the movement of the 
 train. 
 
 " Mr. E. C. Clark, the acting quartermaster, will 
 arrange the encampments and direct the distribution of 
 the forage. It is absolutely necessary that there 
 should be an equal distribution of corn, and no one 
 will be permitted to take more than is assigned or 
 delivered to him. On this depends the safety of our 
 animals, and consequently our own. A limited quan- 
 tity of corn can only be taken, and great economy must 
 be used in its distribution. 
 
 " On coming into camp, holes must be dug for the 
 fires, which must, when the ground permits, be placed 
 in hollows, or beneath a hill, in order to conceal the 
 encampment as much as possible. 
 
 JOHN R. BARTLETT, 
 
 Commissioner." 
 
 In Camp, near San Antonio, October 11, 1853. 
 
t 
 
 52 SAN ANTONIO 
 
 The weather on the first evening was so warm and 
 pleasant, that the young men did not pitch their tents, 
 but bivouacked for the night. One was afterwards set 
 up for the botanist and geologist, who had some labor 
 to perform. About midnight, one of those sudden 
 storms arose, which are so common in this region : the 
 rain fell in torrents, the wind blew with violence, the 
 thunder re-echoed from the hills, and the vivid lightning 
 showed our tentless party in a very sorry plight. A 
 few sought shelter in the only tent that was pitched ; 
 but scarcely had they got ensconced within, when a 
 stronger gust than usual drew the pins from their 
 fastenings and laid the tent flat upon the ground. As 
 there was no other shelter near, they had no alternative 
 but to lie soaking in their wet blankets till morning. 
 I feared that this rude exposure at the outset would 
 be attended with unpleasant consequences; but all 
 were up early and rea,dy for the march in the morning. 
 
 October \lth. Deferred starting until 9 o'clock, in 
 order to give the party time to dry their clothing. 
 The road was exceedingly heavy in consequence of 
 the rain, which kept falling at intervals during the 
 morning. The country, since we left San Antonio, 
 consists of low hills, with broad intervening valleys, 
 and is covered with rich mezquit grass. Clusters of 
 live oak abound in the valleys, while the hills are 
 comparatively bare of trees. Left the road with my 
 mule and ascended a high conical hill on the left, from 
 which I had a fine view of the surrounding landscape. 
 Limestone seems to prevail here, and much of it crops 
 out of the ground on which the road passes, making it, 
 exceedingly rough for the wagons. A very little labor 
 
TO FREDERICKSBURG. 53 
 
 would make the road a good one ; but most of the 
 roads in Texas are so good naturally, that the idea of 
 improving such portions as really need it, seems never 
 to have been entertained. Reached a well known 
 watering place called the Comanche Spring, over 
 which a stone building has lately been erected. Several 
 German families reside here, who have brought their 
 lands into a fine state of cultivation. 
 
 October 12th. Morning quite foggy. The roads very 
 heavy and stony, and the country of the same character 
 as that passed over yesterday. Open grassy plains 
 occur at intervals, with clumps of live-oak, giving a 
 cheerful and picturesque appearance to the landscape. 
 Passed the dry bed of a stream, in following which we 
 spent an hour waiting for the train to come up. Mr. 
 Thurber collected some specimens of plants, among 
 them several species of Euphorbia. First noticed the 
 Sycamore to-day. The prevailing timber continues to 
 be live-oak. Reached Sabine Creek at 3 o'clock, p. m., 
 where we encamped after a very hard day's march, our 
 mules showing much fatigue. The margins of the creek 
 bore cypress trees of large size, and great beauty of 
 foliage. This is the last place at which we saw the 
 palmetto. The bright flowers of the Lobelia cardinalis 
 were abundant. 
 
 October lWi. An express from Quarter-master Myer 
 arrived at midnight, informing me that in consequence 
 of a further call upon him for horses for the party, and 
 to meet other demands, he should require more funds. 
 The messenger waited till after breakfast, when he was 
 dispatched to the quarter-master with the requisite 
 drafts. 
 
54 SAN ANTONIO 
 
 Crossed Sabine Creek, and found both the descent 
 and ascent very bad. The banks being high, we had 
 to follow the bed of the stream over huge rocks, which 
 I feared would disable our wagons. But by dint of 
 pushing and lifting, and hitching horses ahead of the 
 mules, we succeeded in getting across and on the 
 opposite bank without accident. Bits of rolling prairie, 
 covered with luxuriant grass, with here and there a 
 clump of live-oaks, continued as before. Limestone 
 frequently appears above the surface. On reaching 
 the Guadalupe River, we stopped at the log houses of a 
 small German colony. Among these, I was not a little 
 surprised to find one occupied by a gentleman of 
 learning and taste, with a choice library of scientific 
 books around him. In chemistry and mineralogy, his 
 collection was particularly rich ; and even in other 
 departments of natural science, as well as in history, 
 voyages, and travels, it would have been a very 
 respectable one in our large cities, where books are 
 easily procured. Some good pictures, including co- 
 pies from Murillo, evinced his taste in the fine arts. 
 There was no floor or glass windows to this humble 
 dwelling, and as much daylight seemed to come through 
 the openings in the logs as through the windows. A 
 plank table, chairs covered with deer skin, and a rude 
 platform, on which was spread a bed filled with corn 
 husks, but destitute of bed-clothes, constituted the 
 furniture. The walls were covered with books, except 
 one spot, where were arranged twelve rifles and fowling 
 pieces of various kinds, with other paraphernalia of a 
 genuine sportsman; while here and there, jutting out 
 from a projecting corner or log, were sundry antlers, 
 
TO FREDERICKSBURG. 55 
 
 evidence of the skill of the occupant. For want of 
 closets and drawers, these antlers served to hang his 
 clothes on. 
 
 On entering this primitive dwelling, we found its 
 owner, Mr. Berne, busily engaged upon his meteoro- 
 logical table. He received us with kindness and 
 suavity of manner ; and we found him, as well as several 
 others of his countrymen who had entered, communi- 
 cative and intelligent. They had been here two years, 
 and formed part of a large colony of Germans, who had 
 settled in the vicinity. By invitation, we called at an 
 adjoining house, equally primitive with that before 
 described.. On the rude walls hung some beautiful 
 pictures, while other articles of taste, and a cabinet of 
 minerals, had their appropriate places. Here, too, was 
 a fine harpsichord, from which we were treated to 
 selections from the most popular composers, played 
 with an expression and feeling which indicated a 
 master's hand. In the yard were some fine merino 
 sheep ; and while we were listening to the conversation 
 of our friends, a tame peccari thrust his long nose 
 against me to receive my caresses, much as a faithful 
 dog would. But the propensities of the swinish family, 
 to which the peccari is closely allied, were so strongly 
 exhibited in this specimen, that I could only gratify 
 his affection for me by rubbing his back with a stick, 
 which seemed to afford him all the pleasure he desired. 
 It is pleasant to meet such emigrants as these Germans, 
 who bring with them the tastes of their father-land, and 
 the means of further cultivating them. They bring 
 cheerfulness and contentment with them, and impart to 
 the pioneer population by which they are surrounded 
 
56 SAN ANTONIO 
 
 that love for refined enjoyments in which it is so often 
 deficient. 
 
 Fording the Guadalupe River, which is here about 
 eighty feet wide and beautifully transparent, we came 
 to a more open country, though with patches more 
 closely wooded than any yet observed. The prospect 
 on every side was broad ; the land appeared rich, and 
 presented the traces of long cultivation. Passed 
 several fenced inclosures, the first we had seen since 
 leaving San Antonio. 
 
 A species of grape (probably Yitis aestivalis) was 
 abundant in the bottoms of the rivers ; and at the 
 crossing of the Guadalupe we found the vines in great 
 profusion, climbing into the tops of lofty trees, and 
 filled with fruit, of which some of our young men 
 gathered great quantities, and which proved very 
 acceptable. 
 
 Stopped at the house of Dr. Ernst Kapp, Professor, 
 as indicated by his card. There was here the appear- 
 ance of comfort and taste, though the house was of logs. 
 I was introduced to his wife and daughter, who both 
 appeared to be intelligent, and several bright-looking 
 children. Waited here a couple of hours for a supply 
 of corn, and then drove to a watering place seven 
 miles further, where we encamped for the night. 
 
 October lkth. Soon after starting this morning, we 
 ascended an elevated hill, the highest yet met with in 
 the country. The road had followed up a rich and 
 narrow valley, studded at intervals witli oaks, and 
 covered with luxuriant grass, when at length it wound 
 around the base of the hill, and by a zig-zag course led 
 to a point near its summit. Here I left the road and 
 
TO FREDERICKSBURG. 57 
 
 walked to the hill-top on the right. It had a conical 
 shape, with a level surface, scantily covered with low 
 shrubbery, and was about half an acre in size. A 
 magnificent prospect here opened to the sight, surpass- 
 ing in extent any thing we had seen in Texas. To 
 the south, the view extended at least forty miles, losing 
 itself in the distant hills, which were scarcely distin- 
 guishable from the pale blue sky of the horizon. On 
 the east and west were elevated points, inclosing the 
 valley through which we had for miles been winding 
 our way. The hills around us presented a singular 
 appearance, owing to their terraced sides. These 
 ^terraces are formed by layers or strata of limestone, 
 which jut out from the sides of the hills, the rains 
 having washed away the soil. This was characteristic, 
 more or less, of all the hills then in sight, though we 
 afterwards met more striking ones as we journeyed 
 westward. This peculiarity of the hills, from the plateau 
 of Texas to the Missouri, has been noticed by other 
 travellers, and is represented in many of the scenes 
 given by Mr. Catlin in his work on the Indians. On 
 the north side, whither we were directing our march, 
 lay a broad and deep valley, exhibiting, even from the 
 distance, a fertility of soil such as we had not before 
 seen. This valley, as far as I could judge, appeared 
 to be about twenty miles in length ; though I think it 
 extended further, its termination being concealed from 
 view by the projecting spurs of the mountains. The 
 whole was clad in foliage of deep green, so that it 
 appeared like a dense ^wood. As we approached, we 
 found ourselves in an open forest of live-oaks, without 
 any under-growth of shrubs. The grass was nearly 
 
58 SAN ANTONIO 
 
 three feet high, and its strength showed the richness 
 of the soil. After riding several miles through this 
 beautiful valley, we forded the river Piedernales, there 
 about one hundred feet in width, and entered the 
 village which glories in the name of Zodiac, a Mormon 
 colony of one hundred and fifty persons, under the 
 especial care of Elder Wight, as designated by the 
 faithful, though among worldly sinners he bore the 
 appellation of " Colonel." 
 
 Sending the train forward by a more direct road, 
 I drove, with twelve of my party, to the house of the 
 Mormon leader. To a request that dinner might be 
 served to us, if it was his custom to entertain travel- 
 lers, he readily expressed assent, and ordered the 
 meal to be prepared. 
 
 Every where around us in this Zodiacal settlement, 
 we saw abundant signs of prosperity. Whatever may 
 be their theological errors, in secular matters they 
 present an example of industry and thrift which the 
 people of the State might advantageously imitate. 
 They have a tract of land, which they have improved 
 for about three years, and which has yielded profitable 
 crops. The well built houses, perfect fences, and tidy 
 door-yards, gave the place a home-like air, such as we 
 had not before seen in Texas. The dinner was a regu- 
 lar old-fashioned New England farmer's meal, com- 
 prising an abundance of every thing, served with 
 faultless neatness. The entire charge here for a din- 
 ner for twelve persons, and corn for as many animals, 
 was three dollars — a modest demand, which strikingly 
 contrasted with the Astor House prices of a Mr. Mc- 
 Grew, and some others, between Indianola and Victoria. 
 
TO FREDERICKSBURG. 59 
 
 The Colonel said he was the first settler in the 
 valley of the Piedernales, and for many miles around. 
 In his colony were people of all trades. He told me 
 that his crop of corn this year would amount to seven 
 thousand bushels, for which he expected to realize 
 one dollar and twenty-five cents per bushel. Finding 
 that I had not the means to transport the corn I 
 should absolutely require for my journey, I struck a 
 bargain with Colonel Wight for another team, con- 
 sisting of a wagon and four mules, which he agreed to 
 deliver to me at Fredericksburg. 
 
 * Taking leave of our Mormon friends, we rode on 
 two miles, to an encampment of Delaware Indians. 
 Stopped to see a chief, whom I was advised to employ 
 to accompany us to El Paso, where he had been with 
 other parties, and who, from his acquaintance and 
 influence with the Indian tribes on our route, might 
 be of great service. Unfortunately he was absent, 
 and not expected to return for a week. This people 
 did not present a flattering appearance, and seemed to 
 have few more comforts than the wild and unsubdued 
 tribes we afterwards met. A mile further brought us 
 to the United. States military post, called Fort Martin 
 Scott, under the command of Colonel Stannaford. 
 This was the most extreme post on the frontier. We 
 were kindly received by the officers here, and fur- 
 nished by the acting commissary, Lieutenant Blake, 
 with such provisions as we stood in need of. After 
 an hour's delay, we rode on, about two miles further, 
 to Fredricksburg, and pitched our tents on an open 
 spot in the centre of the village. 
 
 This is a flourishing German settlement, founded 
 
60 SAN ANTONIO TO FEEDERICKSBURG. 
 
 about three years before our visit, or in 1847, and has 
 a population of about five hundred souls. There were 
 but few Americans to be seen. The stores were filled 
 with goods adapted to the Indian trade, as the place 
 is on the very borders of civilization, and resorted to 
 by numbers of the Indian tribes contiguous. 
 
FREDERICKSBURG. 61 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 FREDERICKSBURG TO HORSE-HEAD CROSSING. 
 
 Projected route through the wilderness — Setting out — Uninviting ap- 
 pearance of the country — Precarious condition of German settlements 
 on the Llano River — Leave the Emigrants' Eoad — Crossing of the San 
 Saha — Community of prairie dogs — Kickapoo Creek — Hints to future 
 travellers — The Mezquit — Visit of Lipan Chiefs — Indian dexterity in 
 mule catching — Regain the Emigrant Road at Concho River — Horse 
 wounded by a rattlesnake — Character of country and vegetation — 
 Mustang roads — Scarcity of water — Prairie on fire — Deceptive maps — 
 Castle Mountains — Stray cattle captured — Pecos River — Chapporal — 
 " Indian sign." 
 
 September 15th. Remained at Fredericksburg to- 
 day to procure our supply of corn, and made the 
 acquaintance of many of the citizens, among them 
 Captain J. L. Ankrim, since appointed Judge of El 
 Paso district. I was exceedingly anxious that Judge 
 Ankrim should accompany us to El Paso. He had 
 been on the road several times, and directed its con- 
 struction ; moreover, his intimate acquaintance with 
 the country and knowledge of the Indian character 
 were such, that I believed he might be of essential 
 service. But his engagements were of such a nature 
 as not to permit his leaving at the time. I felt much 
 disappointed, and a heavy responsibility resting on 
 me, in having to conduct such a party across a country 
 
62 FREDERICKSBURG 
 
 but little known, a distance of more than six hundred 
 miles. Not one of us had any experience in crossing 
 the prairies beyond what had been gained in coming 
 up from the coast. None had ever encountered any 
 hostile Indians, or suffered the hardships which inevi- 
 tably attend a journey in the wilderness like that before 
 us. I endeavored to procure a guide in San Antonio, 
 but was unsuccessful, and, in the last emergency, took 
 a man who had driven a team some months previous 
 in a train which came to this place from El Paso. 
 Judge Ankrim gave me much information about the 
 route we proposed taking, and advised me to leave 
 the Emigrants' Road, which passes by the old fort on 
 the San Saba, and take a more northerly course. He 
 said there had been no rain for several months, so 
 that the small streams might be dry, and the grass 
 poor ; and that to cross the tributaries of the Colo- 
 rado nearer their union with that stream would insure 
 a greater probability of finding water and grass. 
 There was no road or trail along the route he recom- 
 mended, until we should strike the Concho ; but he 
 marked the courses down on my travelling map, so 
 that I anticipated no great difficulty in finding my way. 
 We were to continue on the Emigrants' Road for seve- 
 ral days, until we crossed the Llano River. About 
 two and a half miles from this stream the Judge said 
 we would see a mezquit tree close by the road, on 
 the right, and a broken limb of another tree sus- 
 pended from one of its branches. At this tree we 
 must leave the road, which has a westerly direction, 
 and strike off to the northwest ; soon after which we 
 would cross the San Saba River. Continuing this 
 
TO HORSE-HEAD CROSSING. 63 
 
 course, we would then meet the south branch of 
 Brady's Creek, and next the north branch of the 
 same. The latter we must follow to its source, which 
 lay in a westerly direction. Here we should find 
 some small pools or springs. From this point we 
 were to take a course due west, crossing many streams, 
 which are laid down on the maps, until we discovered 
 two conical hills or mounds. Between these we 
 must pass, when we should see the Concho River 
 about seven miles distant. Striking that at the nearest 
 point, we would find the Emigrants 1 Road once more, 
 which we had only to follow to its termination on the 
 Rio Grande. 
 
 October lQtJi. As the corn contracted for was not 
 delivered until late, the train did not get off before 
 twelve o'clock. The first watering place was seven 
 miles distant, beyond which I was advised not to go, 
 as it was then late, and it was a good day's journey 
 from that to Hickory Creek. The road was much 
 better than it had been beyond Fredericksburg ; the 
 country was covered with grass, and wooded, as it had 
 been since we passed the Guadalupe. 
 
 October 1*1 th. Left at 7 o'clock, and a few hours 
 after came to an old Indian encampment. The coun- 
 try now assumed a different aspect : ledges of granite 
 and fragments of quartz appeared, and the entire sur- 
 face was much broken ; the oaks were fewer and of less 
 size ; mezquit trees were scattered among them, with 
 here and there a cactus. It was, on the whole, the 
 most interesting country we had seen since leaving San 
 Antonio. A reddish sandstone appeared in some 
 places, the debris of which imparted its own hue to the 
 
64 FREDERICKSBURG 
 
 soil. Weather oppressively hot, the thermometer at 
 90° Fahrenheit. Rode eighteen miles and encamped 
 on Hickory Creek, a small stream at any time, but now 
 dried up. On a closer search, a few water-pools were 
 found, which were sufficient for our purpose. 
 
 As according to our maps there was a German set- 
 tlement on the Llano about fifteen miles from our road, 
 I determined to send a party there to purchase a load 
 of corn for our animals. Mr. Thurber and three others 
 constituted this party. It was small to enter an Indian 
 country ; but being without wagons or other property, 
 save their animals, and moreover being well armed, 
 there was no danger of an open attack by the Indians. 
 A surprise was all they had to fear. 
 
 October ISth. Left camp at 6 o'clock; Mr. Thurber 
 and his party at the same time striking off on a trail 
 which ran in a northeasterly direction. Thermometer 
 stood at 60°, with the wind northeast. The country 
 assumed a more agreeable aspect than yesterday. Live- 
 oaks prevailed, with a few mezquit ; the former large 
 and in thick groups. Passed several valleys more 
 thickly wooded. Reached the Llano at 11 o'clock. 
 
 Found two deserted houses, with out-buildings and 
 inclosures. Were informed at Fredericksburg that 
 the Comanches had attacked this place about six 
 months before, killed one man, and driven away the 
 rest : it has not since been occupied. I could conceive 
 no reason why a few settlers should come so far into 
 the midst of an Indian country, when land equally good 
 and cheap might have been had near a settlement. The 
 situation, it is true, is a very fine one, on the banks of 
 a clear and beautiful river, with water power in abun- 
 
TO HORSE-HEAD CROSSING. 65 
 
 dance and timbered land. But all these, even if given 
 to the occupant, are of little value when life and pro- 
 perty are unsafe. A number of hogs were running 
 about quite wild, of which a couple were killed, to add 
 to our stock of fresh meat. 
 
 The Llano is the finest stream we have yet met in 
 Texas, the Guadalupe alone excepted. Where we forded 
 it, it was two feet deep and one hundred and fifty in 
 width. At a short distance was a rapid, with fall enough 
 for mills. On the opposite bank we found the traces of a 
 large Indian encampment, which, from appearances, 
 must have been occupied a long time : it was probably 
 the habitation of those who destroyed the settlement 
 referred to. Left for Mr. Thurber and his party a note 
 affixed to a pole, stating that we had passed on. After 
 getting our teams up the opposite bank, which was very 
 steep and rocky, and attended with considerable diffi- 
 culty, we continued our march nine miles over a fine 
 country to Comanche Creek, a small stream then nearly 
 dry. Where we encamped, there was no running 
 water ; the little that remained stood in pools among the 
 rocks in the bed of the stream. It was, however, clear 
 and very good. In one of these pools, not exceeding 
 sixty feet in length and eighteen inches in depth, I saw 
 a number of mullet from ten to fourteen inches long, and 
 several gar-pike about two feet in length. There were 
 no small fish in the pool, the gars having doubtless 
 devoured them. Some of our men got into the water 
 with bushes, drove the fish to one end of the pool, and 
 caught some of the mullet, which proved to be good 
 eating. The water line on the banks of this stream 
 showed it to be some six feet below its ordinary height. 
 
 VOL. I. — 5 
 
66 FREDERICKSBURG 
 
 At sunset Mr. Thurber and his party rejoined us. 
 He reported that he had visited the German settlements 
 as instructed. The first one presented a scene of deso- 
 lation seldom witnessed, owing to the predatory incur- 
 sions of the Comanches, and was on the point of being 
 abandoned. The other, called Zastel, contained twenty- 
 six houses ; though but nine families remained, and 
 the wives and children of most of these had been sent 
 away to New Braunfels and other places. These peo- 
 ple, living as they do upon the very outposts, are so 
 completely at the mercy of the Indians, that it is doubt- 
 ful if they succeed in braving it out. Their houses are 
 very small, built of squared logs, and furnished with loop- 
 holes for rifles. The land is poor ; and there seemed 
 no attraction about the place, except the beautiful 
 Llano, which is a most picturesque stream, now rushing 
 in rapids over a rocky bed, and now spreading into 
 broad and quiet lakes. 
 
 On their way back the party met a band of Caddo 
 Indians, a small but mischievous tribe, returning from 
 a horse-stealing expedition. They spoke some English, 
 and had a number of fine animals with them, which they 
 said they had taken by way of reprisal from their ene- 
 mies the Wacoes. But the knowing look which one of 
 them put on when Mr. Thurber expressed a doubt of 
 the story, and the fine condition of their horses showed 
 pretty plainly that they had been among the settle- 
 ments. 
 
 About midnight a party of Germans reached camp 
 with about twenty bushels of corn, which proved a 
 valuable accession to our stock, and made up what we 
 had been feeding out. 
 
TO HORSE-HEAD CROSSING. 67 
 
 October 19th. All up before day ; dispatched break- 
 fast, struck tents, and were off at 6 o'clock. The morn- 
 ing was clear and cold, the mercury standing at 36° 
 at sunrise. This low temperature affected us sensibly 
 after the very hot weather we had had. The country 
 was thinly wooded with live-oak. Passed a range of 
 high hills, with two conical ones standing directly in 
 our, path, between which we passed. Left my mule 
 and walked to the summit, whence there was presented 
 a fine view of the surrounding country, consisting of 
 an alternation of hills and prairie, with scattering trees, 
 chiefly mezquit. Leaving this valley we ascended to 
 a plateau, the surface of which was quite level. We 
 now looked anxiously for the mark, where Judge 
 Ankrim directed us to leave the Emigrants' Road, and 
 soon discovered a broken limb suspended from a tree, 
 precisely as described to us. Here, with some reluc- 
 tance and not a little uneasiness, I left the beaten road 
 and struck off into a broad and open prairie in a north- 
 westerly direction, with no trail or path, and no guide 
 but my compass. The man hired at San Antonio 
 proving entirely ignorant of localities and destitute of 
 useful information, I sent him to the rear of the train, 
 preferring my maps and compass to his doubtful 
 suggestions. Had the country presented a pleasant 
 aspect, we would have entered the untrodden field with 
 more satisfaction ; but, unfortunately, a recent fire had 
 burned off all the grass, destroying every green thing 
 and leaving only a black stubble, from which slabs of 
 limestone protruded. The soil appeared good. 
 
 We had hoped to meet the San Saba River soon 
 after leaving the road ; but coming to a small stream 
 
68 FREDERICKSBURG 
 
 at 4 o'clock, with water standing in pools, and a little 
 patch of grass near, which had escaped the fire, I 
 deemed it prudent to go no farther, but encamp, rather 
 than continue our march without knowing the exact 
 distance to the river. It is always advisable to encamp 
 early enough to procure wood and water, and make 
 all the necessary arrangements before dark. We gen- 
 erally endeavored to get into camp in season to let our 
 mules graze two or three hours before nightfall ; but 
 in some instances this was impossible, as our daily 
 marches were governed by the state of the grass and 
 facilities for procuring water. If we struck a spot with 
 these important necessaries by two or three o'clock in 
 the afternoon, we encamped. In some instances we 
 even stopped at twelve o'clock, while in others we kept 
 on our way until dark. 
 
 October 20th, Sunday. I would gladly have re- 
 mained in camp to-day, agreeably to my original 
 intention to rest on Sundays ; but it was of the utmost 
 importance that we should push on as fast as possible, 
 having barely provisions enough for our journey. 
 Besides, there was scarcely grass enough for another 
 day's feed on the little spot where we were encamped. 
 Early in the morning, therefore, I sent off parties to 
 seek the San Saba River, and a place to cross it. We 
 were occupied an hour or two in securing some mules 
 which had got loose during the night; but by the 
 time the animals were hitched up, reports came in that 
 the river was within a mile of us, and a fording place 
 had been found. We soon after got off, and, crossing 
 some steep and rocky hills, reached the ford. The 
 horsemen led the way across the stream, which was 
 
TO HORSE-HEAD CROSSING. 69 
 
 very clear, and flowed over a smooth limestone rock. 
 But the opposite bank was found to be impassable for 
 wagons. Set all hands at work, some in levelling the 
 bank, some in bringing logs, boughs, and stones, while 
 a passage through the thick wood which grew along 
 the river's margin was opened with axes by others. 
 In an hour all was ready. The teams were now 
 brought over singly, and by hard pushing and pull- 
 ing they were all got safely up the bank. 
 
 Near this crossing, we observed fine burr oaks ; and 
 the ground was strewn with their enormous acorns, 
 with beautifully fringed cups. A gradual ascent over 
 a rocky surface brought us again to the level of the 
 table land beyond. We continued our way over 
 gentle hills, pretty well covered with mezquit and 
 live-oaks, for about six miles, when we reached Camp 
 Creek, a small stream, dry in many places. Stopped 
 an hour to water our animals and take lunch, as it was 
 my determination to reach Brady's Creek, about six- 
 teen miles distant. 
 
 The ground ascended gradually from this point for 
 several miles, when we struck a more open country, 
 on a level plateau, which continued without interrup- 
 tion during several hours' march. On this plateau we 
 entered a colony of the misnamed "prairie dogs," 
 which extended in every direction as far as the eye 
 could reach. The ground occupied by this fraternity was 
 distinctly marked by the shortness of the grass, which 
 these little creatures feed on, as well as by their hillocks, 
 some of which contain two or three cart-loads of earth, 
 brought up by them from their excavated dwellings. 
 We tried in vain to get one of them as a specimen, 
 
70 FREDERICKSBURG 
 
 dead or alive. At least twenty shots were fired at 
 them, both with pistols and rifles, by several indivi- 
 duals of the party, who considered themselves good 
 marksmen ; but they either dodged at the flash, or, 
 if shot, fell into their holes, at the mouth of which 
 they invariably sat. Not one was obtained. On 
 examination, drops of blood were seen near the holes, 
 which showed that some of the shots took effect. 
 In one instance I saw a rattlesnake enter one of the 
 habitations ; but whether he belonged there or was 
 an interloper it was impossible to tell. Small brown 
 owls flitted about, and lit on the little hillocks in 
 the midst of the prairie dogs, with which they 
 seemed to be upon good terms. For more than three 
 hours our march continued through the vast domains 
 of this community, or " dog-town," as they are usu- 
 ally called, nor did they terminate when we stopped 
 for the night. 
 
 The country passed over to-day was very smooth 
 and hard, and excellent for wagons in any direc- 
 tion. The grass was poor. The only trees seen were 
 mezquit, which we here found for the first time in 
 fruit. 
 
 The plain suddenly terminated by a steep descent 
 of about 150 feet, to another, which extended along its 
 base, and through which ran Brady's Creek (south 
 fork), where we encamped. Like the other water 
 courses we had passed, this was nearly dry, and existed 
 only in pools. Quails were abundant here ; and by 
 the time my cook had his fire ready, I had a dozen of 
 these delicious birds ready for him. Estimated dis- 
 tance travelled to-day, twenty-five miles. 
 
TO HORSE-HEAD CROSSING. 71 
 
 October 21st The night had been quite cold. The 
 morning was clear and pleasant. Left at half-past six 
 o'clock. The colony of prairie dogs continued the 
 whole of this day's march, with scarcely an interrup- 
 tion. Our course was more westerly, over a level 
 and open country, covered with short mezquit grass, 
 and studded with small mezquit trees, uninterrupted 
 by either hill, rock, or valley. We kept steadily on 
 by the compass until we struck the north fork of 
 Brady's Creek, sixteen miles from our last camp. 
 Stopped on its banks two hours to water and graze 
 the animals, a longer time than was necessary, or 
 than could well be spared ; but our mules got frisky, 
 and it was difficult to catch them. I determined not 
 to make a noon halt again, but to push on until we 
 should reach our place for encamping. This course 
 is recommended by all experienced men who have 
 had charge of trains. A stop cannot be made at 
 noon, if the mules are taken from the wagons, without 
 consuming two hours, which cannot be spared, unless 
 a very long march is to be made, and continued 
 during a portion of the night. Then it becomes 
 necessary to stop to rest and feed. Reached what I 
 supposed to be the head of the creek at half-past three 
 o'clock ; at least my guide stated such to be the case, 
 and that we should not meet water again for thirteen 
 miles. We therefore encamped here, though the 
 grass was very poor, having been recently burnt, and 
 the new shoots but just appearing above the ground. 
 
 October 22d. Delayed this morning until half- 
 past eight o'clock in searching for four mules, which 
 got loose during the night and disappeared. Such is 
 
72 FREDERICKSBURG 
 
 often the case when the grazing is poor; and parties 
 should take particular care on these occasions to see 
 that their animals are well secured. Left three or 
 four men to continue the search after the mules, as we 
 had no animals to spare. Found Brady's Creek did 
 not terminate here, as my guide stated, but led 
 towards the south-west. Followed it three or four 
 miles, then crossed it, and took a course a little north 
 of west, and reached a pool of deep water, with excel- 
 lent grass on its margin, about four o'clock. Believing 
 this to be the head waters of the creek we had been 
 following, and having travelled nine hours pretty 
 steadily, determined to stop here for the night. The 
 country passed over to-day has been very flat, and of 
 the same character as that the two days previous. As 
 we are now on the high table-land, the trees diminish 
 in number and in size. A few mezquit trees, stunted, 
 deformed, and decayed, appear on the prairie, and 
 occasionally a "mot" of live-oaks. The community 
 and domain of the prairie dogs, which we entered 
 two days ago, continues. 
 
 The men we left to search for the missing mules 
 rejoined us, and, greatly to my disappointment, with- 
 out the animals. They had scoured the country for 
 miles around; and having seen "Indian sign," as it is 
 termed, about a mile from our trail, keeping by us for 
 many miles, they believed our mules had been stolen, 
 and that a band of Indians were following us. It is 
 not necessary that the savage should be seen, to judge 
 of his presence. He always leaves marks behind him, 
 which are soon understood by the sagacious travellers of 
 the prairie, and are as unmistakable as his own red skin. 
 
TO HORSE-HEAD CROSSING. 73 
 
 October 23d Got off at six o'clock, an early hour 
 for the season ; but it is an advantage for travellers in 
 this region to push on as far as possible in the early 
 part of the day. Even now the heat of the sun at 
 mid-day was great, and the shade of a tree refresh- 
 ing. To move at six, it was necessary to call the 
 cooks at three o'clock, and to take breakfast before 
 day. After this the cooks and, servants had to take 
 their meal, the cooking utensils were to be washed 
 and stowed away, the tents struck, and every thing 
 put in its proper place in the wagons. 
 
 Two miles brought us to Kickapoo Creek, and 
 three miles more to a small pool, with a river running 
 through it, marked on the map as " Potato Spring," 
 where we stopped to water our animals. Continued 
 our route towards an opening or pass in the elevated 
 ridge, which stretched across our path, in a direction 
 from north to south, called " the divide." Noticed a 
 sudden shelving off on the north side of the highest 
 portion of the ridge, directly in our front, where we 
 supposed the pass to be. As we approached we could 
 discover no opening; and the point towards which 
 we had been moving was so rocky as to seem utterly 
 impracticable. To the northward the ridge appeared 
 less abrupt and rocky, which induced me to deviate 
 from the prescribed course. The ascent was gradual, 
 but quite rocky. For six miles or more we held our 
 way over the dividing ridge, which proved very tire- 
 some to our animals. The hills were entirely desti- 
 tute of trees and shrubs ; and as the grass had been 
 recently burned off, the prospect before us as far as 
 we could see was extremely barren. North of us, at 
 
74 FREDERICKSBURG 
 
 a distance of two or three miles, the ridge we were 
 crossing terminated, and beyond it lay a broad and 
 open prairie, extending to the river Concho, the 
 course of which could be distinctly traced by a long 
 line of dark foliage meandering through the plain. 
 
 I would recommend future travellers who may 
 follow my trail, or any other road passing this way, 
 to leave the stony ridge we had been crossing to the 
 south, and keep on the plain, where the soil is hard 
 and smooth. The distance might be increased a 
 couple of miles, but it could be accomplished in less 
 time, and with less fatigue to the mules, than the toil- 
 some passage of six miles, over steep and rocky hills, 
 endangering the wagons, and injuring the hoofs of the 
 animals. 
 
 Descending the range of hills, we passed the dry 
 bed of a water-course, and reached a stream called 
 Antelope Creek, one of the tributaries of the Concho 
 River, at five o'clock, where we encamped. 
 
 Our route to-day had been over a level prairie 
 country, deficient in wood, save a few scattering mez- 
 quit trees of diminutive size, and light grass, indicat- 
 ing a poorer soil. We have noticed as we advanced 
 westward, and ascended the high table-land of Texas, 
 an inferior soil, and, as a necessary consequence, a 
 more scanty herbage. The beautiful live-oak, which 
 abounds in eastern Texas, and which grows luxuriantly 
 in the valleys as far as the north fork of Brady's Creek, 
 had now disappeared, save on the immediate banks 
 of water-courses. The mezquit, too, which grew large 
 and thrifty on good soil, had now either disappeared 
 or dwindled into a diminutive tree or mere shrub. 
 
TO HORSE-HEAD CROSSING. 75 
 
 The niezquit (Algarobia glandulosa) is an important 
 tree in this region, and is mentioned by various tra- 
 vellers as mezkeet, 'musquit, muckeet, &c; it belongs to 
 the same natural family as our locust, which it very 
 much resembles in appearance. The foliage is more 
 delicate than that of the locust. The wood is hard, 
 fine-grained, and susceptible of a high polish; and 
 were it not difficult to obtain it sufficiently large and 
 straight, it would be much sought after for cabinet 
 making purposes. The tree seems to suffer from the 
 attacks of insects in a similar manner with the locust. 
 The mezquit bears a long and narrow pod, which, 
 when ripe, is filled with a highly saccharine pulp. 
 Horses and mules are exceedingly fond of these, and 
 will often leave their corn for a feed of the mezquit 
 beans. Its great value is for fuel, for which purpose 
 it is not surpassed by any of our northern woods. 
 Where the prairies are frequently burned over, the tree 
 is reduced to a shrubby state, a great number of small 
 branches proceeding from one root, which goes on 
 developing and attains a great size, though the portion 
 above ground may not be more than four or five feet 
 high. These roots, dug up and dried, are highly 
 prized for fire-wood, and form, when thoroughly ignited, 
 a bed of lasting coals, much like those from the hickory 
 of the North. 
 
 The water of Antelope Creek is clear and sweet. 
 Large oaks and pecans grow upon its banks, from the 
 latter of which we gathered a quantity of its excellent 
 nuts. To the north, saw ranges of mountains far 
 beyond the Concho, a broad plain intervening. To 
 the south were hills within a few miles, quite barren in 
 
76 FREDERICKSBURG 
 
 appearance. Passed several communities of prairie 
 dogs, with the same interlopers before noticed, the 
 rattlesnake and owl. I also observed rabbits among 
 them, which took refuge in their underground dwell- 
 ings. Flocks of plover were seen to-day on the barren 
 hills. The jackass-rabbit also crossed our path occa- 
 sionally; but it sprang up so suddenly, and darted 
 through the low chapporal or bushes so rapidly, that I 
 could not get a shot at one. Some catfish and trout 
 were taken in the stream within a few rods of our 
 camp. The men who were out with the mules reported 
 that they had seen fresh Indian signs near us, which 
 caused us to keep a diligent look-out. 
 
 October 2£th. Just as we were leaving camp this 
 morning, in fact after I had myself started, and was 
 looking for a place to ford the stream, an Indian 
 mounted on a mule suddenly appeared from behind a 
 clump of bushes, and the next moment was in the 
 midst of the camp. He advanced to the nearest party 
 with his hand extended, and was received in a friendly 
 manner. As soon as salutations had been exchanged, 
 he hastily drew from his pouch a packet, and, after 
 undoing sundry wrappings of buckskin and paper, 
 drew forth several documents, which proved to be from 
 various American officials. The first was from Judge 
 Rollins, Indian Agent; the others from our military 
 officers, certifying that the bearer was a Lipan chief 
 of eminence, named Chi-po-ta, with whom a treaty of 
 peace and friendship had recently been made, and 
 asking the protection and kind treatment of all Ameri- 
 cans who should pass through his country. 
 
 This chief was about sixty years of age, rather 
 
TO HORSE-HEAD CROSSING. 77 
 
 corpulent, owing to the life of ease which he gave us to 
 understand he had been leading, and was mounted on a 
 mule so disproportionately small, as to present a most 
 ludicrous appearance. He had a pleasant, benevolent 
 countenance, and bore so striking a resemblance to 
 the portraits of General Cass, that every one noticed 
 it. He was well dressed in a suit of deerskin, with his 
 bow and arrows slung across his back: these were 
 inclosed in a beautiful case made of the skin of the 
 American leopard, and he wore a pouch of the same 
 material by his side. 
 
 He spoke Spanish tolerably well, Mr. Cremony 
 acting as- the interpreter, and was immediately brought 
 to me. He said that he had discovered our trail two 
 days before, and had since watched us, keeping at a 
 short distance. That his people were encamped a few 
 miles off, having removed the day before. Chipota 
 knew enough of civilization to be aware that when 
 distinguished gentlemen meet, it was customary to take 
 a drink ; and finding no proffer of such civilities on 
 my part, he gave me to understand that he would not 
 object to a glass of whiskey. I told him that we were 
 Americans who always drank water, and consequently 
 were not provided with whiskey, an assertion that 
 he seemed to doubt. I added, however, that if he 
 would accompany us to our next encampment, I would 
 give him a shirt and something to eat. As we intended 
 to encamp after a short march, in order to give our 
 animals an opportunity to graze, I asked him to take 
 a seat in my carriage, an invitation which he accepted 
 with a delight that showed itself in spite of his 
 endeavors to maintain his gravity. Contrary to the 
 
78 FREDERICKSBURG 
 
 custom of his race, he manifested much curiosity- 
 respecting all he saw ; for the carriage was well filled 
 with a variety of knick-knacks which were new to him. 
 The revolvers and other fire-arms interested him 
 exceedingly. My Sharp's rifle which loaded at the 
 breech and primed itself, surpassed all his previous 
 conceptions ; and after that, he was prepared for any 
 thing in the shooting line. Taking up my spy-glass, 
 which he supposed to be some other contrivance of the 
 sort, he wished to be shown how it was fired off. The 
 instrument was adjusted, and a distant tree pointed 
 out, which he was told to look at with the glass. His 
 credulity had been overtasked, and it was hard to 
 convince him that it was the same far-off tree. I told 
 him that we used that to see the Indians at a distance, 
 and could always tell when they were about, or had 
 stolen any mules. In mien and conduct the old chief 
 was extremely dignified and self-possessed, although 
 his Indian gravity was not proof against the jovial 
 condact and expressions of our little company, all of 
 whom took an interest in this first specimen of the wild 
 denizens of the prairie that we had met with. Many 
 a blithe smile wreathed around his lips ; and now and 
 then a hearty laugh would ring out from the depths of 
 the old man's heart, with a right good will. Finding 
 that he had mules, I requested him to bring them to 
 our camp, and also to let us see his people. 
 
 Five miles over a flat country brought us to the South 
 Fork or Boiling Concho. The stream is deep, clear, 
 and in many places rapid. Crossed it, after some little 
 search, over a ledge of rocks, and stopped to water 
 our animals. The flat country continued, with a few 
 
TO HORSE-HEAD CROSSING. 79 
 
 mezquit and an occasional live-oak. The grass good. 
 Passed Dove Creek, a small stream filled with rushes ; 
 and a ride of four miles further over a similar country 
 to that before described, brought us to Good Spring 
 Creek, a stream of clear cold water. It was yet but 
 one o'clock ; but as the grass was unusually fine, with 
 wood and water in abundance, I determined to rest 
 the remainder of the day. 
 
 Our course to-day had been due west towards the 
 Green Mounds, the land-marks alluded to by Judge 
 Ankrim, the sight of which we all hailed with pleasure, 
 as they satisfied us that we were in the right track. 
 To the north we had seen the twin mountains, standing 
 far and alone in the prairie, which are laid down on 
 the map. The stream looked so inviting, that the 
 fishing tackle was got out, and some twenty-five black 
 bass and catfish taken. These were divided among the 
 messes, and made an acceptable meal. A few ducks 
 and quails were also shot here. 
 
 An hour or two after we encamped, Chipota returned 
 with Chiquita, another chief, and several others of his 
 band. This was a man of some consequence too, as he 
 gave us to understand ; and such was proved to be the 
 fact by the certificates he presented " defining his 
 position," which requested kind treatment from all 
 Americans. He was about the age of Chipota, and 
 similarly dressed. With them were three others, one 
 a remarkably fine-looking young man, of athletic form, 
 which he took pride in displaying. He wore no gar- 
 ment but a breech-cloth and a necklace of bone, and was 
 decorated with a few patches of vermilion. At first 
 he strutted around the camp, with an evident design 
 
80 FREDERICKSBURG 
 
 of making a sensation, and to convince us that lie felt 
 it a condescension to associate with us ; but he after- 
 wards became quite familiar, particularly with those 
 who could hold a conversation with him in Spanish, 
 which he understood well, and spoke a little. He 
 asked one of our young men if he was married. The 
 latter, as such happened not to be the case, was some- 
 what confused, not liking to acknowledge the fact, 
 as he feared it would lower him in the estimation of 
 his savage friend, who moreover might take it into his 
 head to offer him one of his red-skinned sisters for a 
 spouse, to refuse which would give mortal offence. 
 Without replying, therefore, he exhibited a miniature 
 of a beautiful woman, which he carried around his neck, 
 and which quite enchanted the red-skin. He expressed 
 great admiration at the picture, and never seemed tired 
 of gazing at its mild countenance, with its bright eyes 
 smiling upon him. The next morning before leaving, 
 this young Indian made his appearance at the tent 
 of the owner of the miniature, and endeavored to 
 purchase it, offering in exchange his bow, arrows, tiger 
 skin, and finally his horse. Failing to acquire it, the 
 young man begged one more sight of the enchanting 
 image, which he was permitted to enjoy ; he gave it one 
 long and affectionate look, leaped upon his horse, and 
 rode off. 
 
 Chipota brought with him one mule, which I bought, 
 and would gladly have taken more ; but whether these 
 people had them or not, no more could be obtained. 
 I also offered them ten dollars each, or goods to that 
 amount, if they would bring in the few mules we had 
 lost ; but they adhered to their first assertion, that they 
 
TO HORSE-HEAD CROSSING. 81 
 
 had not seen them. As they showed no inclination to 
 leave, we were obliged to give them a supper, after 
 which they asked permission to remain all night with 
 us. This I felt reluctant to grant, not knowing but 
 some treachery or trick might be meditated, such as 
 running off our animals during the night. On further 
 reflection, however, I consented, on condition that they 
 remained by the fires without the encampment — at the 
 same time warning them, not to come near us in the 
 dark, lest our guard should take them for Comanches 
 and shoot them. They obeyed my injunctions, and 
 remained quietly by the fires. The night was rather 
 cool, and- day had scarcely dawned, when I was 
 aroused by a tap at the window of my carriage, in 
 which I slept. Rising up, I found old Chipota there 
 shivering with cold. On opening, the door, he 
 whispered, " Mucho frio — poco de viskey :" Very cold 
 — a little whiskey. I was compelled again to deny 
 the old man, but compromised the matter soon after by 
 giving him a bowl of hot coffee. 
 
 The Lipans are a large and warlike tribe, extending 
 from Zacatecas, in Mexico, to the Colorado of Texas. 
 In fact, they rove from the Sea-coast to the borders of 
 New Mexico, and have as wide a range as the 
 Comanches. During the winter, they remain in the 
 Bolson de Mapimi, a vast region lying west of the Rio 
 Grande, which has few inhabitants, except the untamed 
 Comanches and Lipans. The portion of the tribe in 
 Texas are at present on friendly terms with the whites, 
 but are sworn foes of the Comanches, whom they profess 
 to hold in great contempt. The Lipans, in common 
 with the Indian tribes of Mexico, and of the States 
 
 VOL. I. 6 
 
82 FREDERICKSBURG 
 
 formerly belonging thereto, speak Spanish, some of 
 them with tolerable fluency. 
 
 October 25th. One of our mules got loose this 
 morning ; and after an hour and a half spent in trying 
 to catch him, the teamsters gave up the chase. I then 
 offered the young Indian a red shirt, if he would 
 perform the job. He leaped on his horse without a 
 saddle, took a long lasso or rope in his hand, and 
 dashed off at full speed, followed by several of our 
 men, after the mule, who, seeing his tormentors 
 approach, took alarm and ran with his utmost speed. 
 The race was quite exciting, and for a little while, it 
 seemed doubtful which side would win. At length 
 the Indian got within about forty feet, when, with a 
 vigorous effort he threw the lasso over the mule's head, 
 and at once brought him to a stand. All seemed to 
 enjoy the sport much ; and the Indians, who had each 
 received from us presents of shirts and trinkets, parted 
 from us, apparently delighted with their visit. 
 
 The creek was five or six feet deep near our camp, 
 but after a little search we found a bare rock near a 
 fall, where we made an easy passage across. An hour 
 after leaving, reached a branch of the stream we had 
 left, which we followed in a course to the west-southwest 
 for five or six miles, before a fording place could be 
 found. The water was deep, and the banks abrupt. 
 Crossing this stream, we again pursued a due west 
 course until we struck Lipan Camp Creek, which, as 
 well as all the other streams we have crossed since 
 leaving Brady's Creek, are tributaries of the Concho. 
 We now made directly for the Green Mounds, which 
 appeared but a few miles from us up a gradual ascent. 
 
TO HORSE-HEAD CROSSING. 83 
 
 They lay north-east and south-west from each other, 
 and the train passed directly between them. While the 
 train moved along I ascended the easterly mound, 
 accompanied by several others, to see what was the 
 character of the country before us. These mounds or 
 hills are about five hundred feet high, and had been 
 but recently burnt over ; hence their color was far 
 from being green. Not a blade of grass was to be 
 seen. A few half-burnt bushes and tufts of the yucca 
 were all the vegetation that remained. From the 
 summit we saw the line of the Concho River running 
 in a northeasterly direction, some six or seven miles 
 distant. ■ Reached it at five o'clock, when, to our 
 great joy, we again struck the Emigrant Road, which we 
 had last seen south of the San Saba. Yery few trains 
 had passed over it, so that it was not more distinct than 
 the roads or paths through a northern meadow. 
 
 We had now been travelling eight days over a 
 district one hundred and fifty miles in extent, with no 
 other guide than a compass. From the point where 
 we left Brady's Creek, we had pursued a course as 
 directly west as the nature of the country would admit, 
 with no land-mark but the Green Mounds, which 
 we had seen about forty miles before reaching them. 
 In this march we had frequently crossed a single wagon 
 trail, which we took to be that of Major Bryan, of the 
 United States Topographical Engineers, who, in June 
 and July of the previous year, had passed this way.* 
 
 The character of the country the last three or four 
 
 * Since my return from the survey, I have seen the printed Report 
 of the Reconnoissance made by Major Bryan, which convinces me that 
 our routes were nearly the same. 
 
84 FREDERICKSBURG 
 
 days has varied but little. The soil is poor and the 
 grass scanty, except near the water-courses, with but 
 few trees. For a wagon road it is admirably adapted, 
 and scarcely requires a spade, except at the river 
 crossings, which might be improved by a little levelling. 
 No animals, except wolves, antelopes, and rabbits, have 
 been seen. Along the banks of the streams are pecan 
 trees, from which we supplied ourselves with this 
 delicious nut. 
 
 An incident occurred to-day which deserves notice. 
 Soon after leaving the Green Mounds a rattlesnake 
 was seen in the path, and was passed over by my 
 carriage. Mr. Cremony, who was riding immediately 
 behind, discharged his pistol at it ; and at the same 
 moment the snake darted at the hind leg of his horse. 
 He dismounted, and on examination discovered by a 
 drop of blood the spot where the reptile had inserted 
 his poisonous fangs. In less than half an hour after the 
 horse began to limp and show the effects of his wound ; 
 and his lameness increased until we reached our camp 
 an hour later, by which time the leg had greatly 
 swollen as far as the thigh. Dr. Webb now got out 
 his medicine chest, shaved the hair from the wound, 
 and applied some remedy. He also scarified the place 
 and used the air-pump, but nothing seemed to check 
 the swelling. The horse was now unable to stand, 
 and thus he was left till morning. 
 
 October 26th. From our camp the Concho runs 
 east for a mile, then north-east for about twenty miles, 
 and afterwards in an easterly course again for about one 
 hundred and twenty miles, when it empties into the 
 Colorado. Near our camp, and for some distance on 
 
TO HORSE-HEAD CROSSING. 85 
 
 either side, the stream flowed between banks about 
 fifteen feet high, and was very muddy and shallow. 
 A variety of trees with thick brush grew upon its 
 immediate banks. There was no valley or bottom 
 land, and the country for miles adjacent was quite 
 barren, though it is said that catfish abound here ; but 
 our attempts to capture some were unsuccessful. 
 
 Left camp at sunrise and forded the river a few 
 miles above. Crossed a branch at the south, and 
 another on the north side of the stream, both quite 
 small. Passed some deep arroyos, or dry beds of 
 streams. Sent scouts ahead to look for the last water, 
 where I intended to encamp and give my animals rest 
 before attempting the desert that lay beyond. The 
 stream continued to grow less as we advanced, finally 
 losing itself in marshes or settling into mere pools. It 
 also became so salt as to be undrinkable. The scouts on 
 their return reported that the water grew Salter ahead, 
 and that the banks of the pools were covered with in- 
 crustations of salt. With such a prospect before us, I 
 thought the more prudent course would be to retrace 
 our steps a mile, to a pool where the water, though far 
 from being good, was palatable, and where there was 
 excellent grass. At half-past two got into camp. 
 
 During the whole day we had seen great quantities 
 of wild ducks, of which twenty-five were shot, also two 
 large brandt. The whole party feasted on game 
 to-day, which we relished much, having tasted no fresh 
 meat since leaving Fredericksburg. I procured a 
 supply there, which I hoped would last four or five 
 days ; but the great heat had rendered it unfit for use 
 after the first day. 
 
86 FREDERICKSBURG 
 
 The river or rather creek followed to-day, ran 
 through a valley quite barren, save on its immediate 
 banks, where the grass was good. No trees were seen, 
 except here and there a small clump near the water- 
 pools. During the whole day's march ranges of barren 
 hills lined the valley, which sloped gradually to its 
 bottom. Estimated distance travelled to-day by the 
 map, twenty-five miles. 
 
 Our wounded horse seemed somewhat improved 
 this morning, though his leg was still much swollen. 
 He was led, and, as our movement was slow, kept up 
 with us without difficulty. On reaching camp, he did 
 not appear the worse for his march. 
 
 October 27th. Continued along the valley of the 
 Concho for eight or ten miles, and encamped at noon 
 near a pool of brackish water, which our scouts reported 
 to be the last they could find ; and every appearance 
 indicated a cessation of this necessary supply. To the 
 west the valley seemed to terminate with the adjacent 
 hills, and the open desert or prairie to commence 
 immediately beyond. Expecting therefore no water 
 until we should reach the Pecos, sixty-five miles distant, 
 and knowing that the Jornada which we had to cross 
 furnished little grass, I determined to remain here the 
 rest of the day, as the grass was very good and abun- 
 dant. Our water-kegs were accordingly filled, as well 
 as all the canteens, jars, bottles, and flasks that we could 
 muster. Food was cooked ; and it was determined 
 that there should be no stop beyond an hour or two, 
 to let the animals rest and graze, in case grass should 
 be found. The wagons were reloaded, so that each 
 should carry an equal weight. Many ducks were killed 
 
TO HORSE-HEAD CROSSING. 87 
 
 in the water-pools. The road from our last camp has 
 been good. 
 
 October 2$th. The camp was aroused early ; and 
 after taking a cup of coffee, we resumed our journey, 
 about an hour and a half before sunrise. Sent four 
 men ahead to find the road. The hills extended some 
 eight or ten miles towards the desert, when they 
 gradually fell off into the plain. The desert was not, 
 as I supposed, a level surface, but a succession of slight 
 elevations. Every thing bore the appearance of extreme 
 barrenness ; not a tree could be seen. Mezquit chappo- 
 ral, or bushes from three to five feet in height, were 
 thinly scattered over the plain. The wild sage and 
 Larrea Mexicana, the prickly pear and other kinds of 
 cacti, constituted the vegetation of this desert region. 
 Grama grass ( Chrondosium) grew in some spots, and, 
 though completely dried up, was eaten with avidity 
 by our animals. Antelope were seen in great numbers, 
 but so shy, that in the open plain we could not get 
 a shot at them. Colonies of prairie dogs were occasion- 
 ally observed; and from the numerous burrowing 
 places of greater or less size, it was evident that other 
 animals found a dwelling among them. A few rabbits 
 were also seen bounding over the plain, and disap- 
 pearing in their holes or among the bushes. Several 
 shots were fired at them without success. These bar- 
 ren regions do not furnish many of the feathered tribe : 
 a couple of prairie fowls, a flock of large curlews, and 
 a few meadow larks and sparrows, were all that were 
 seen. 
 
 About twenty miles from our last camp we passed 
 a mud-hole, marked on the map as the "Mustang 
 
88 FREDERICKSBURG 
 
 Ponds." It was a slight depression in the prairie. 
 Not a particle of water was to be found, nor did there 
 appear to have been any for a long time. The earth 
 was much trampled by deer and mustangs, which had 
 doubtless resorted here in numbers for water. Made 
 our breakfast from bits of cold meat and bread which 
 we had taken with us, and did not stop the train until 
 three o'clock, p. m. Finding a spot where there was 
 plenty of dry grass, the train was stopped and the 
 animals turned out to graze. The poor creatures 
 seemed much fatigued, having been in harness ten 
 hours without water or food. They ate the withered 
 grass and browsed on the twigs of the mezquit bushes 
 with eagerness. Gave each animal one gallon of water. 
 They could not have suffered much for want of this, 
 as the weather had been quite cool during the day. 
 Built fires with the dry bushes, and made coffee. No 
 meat was cooked. Our cold pork, and some of the 
 ducks that remained from yesterday, with hard bread, 
 gave us a luxurious dinner. At least so it seemed to 
 us ; for on no day since we commenced our journey 
 had we relished a meal more. The cool and bracing 
 air of the prairie had given all good appetites. 
 
 Had a narrow escape from one of those accidents 
 which, in spite of every precaution, will sometimes 
 occur. One of the cooks, contrary to my express 
 orders, built his fire near the dry grass without dig- 
 ging a hole. The grass took fire, spreading on all 
 sides, and advanced with fearful rapidity towards the 
 wagons, in the direction of which the wind was blow, 
 ing. All hands ran to the rescue with blankets and 
 cloths to beat down the fire ; and those who could 
 
TO HORSE-HEAD CROSSING. 89 
 
 not in the hurry of the moment get any thing else, 
 took their coats and hats to battle with the raging 
 element. Some ran to the wagons to remove them ; 
 but before they could be got out of the way, the 
 flames were about the heels of the men and the wagon 
 wheels. The slightly-marked road where the grass 
 was destroyed, offered a temporary check, and was of 
 great help to us in bringing the fire under. Had 
 it had one minute more the start, a hundred men 
 could not have controlled it ; besides, had it extended 
 fifty feet further — which it would have done in half 
 a minute — it would have reached our animals, and 
 caused a general stampede among them, resulting, 
 doubtless, in the loss of many. We should then have 
 been in a sad plight, thirty miles from water, and two 
 hundred and fifty from the nearest settlement. 
 
 Such accidents have occurred, which have resulted 
 in the destruction of trains. During the late war with 
 Mexico, several wagons were burned by the grass 
 taking fire. 
 
 The place marked "Flat-rock Ponds," where we 
 were told water was sometimes found, was quite dry, 
 nor were there any indications that there had been 
 any there for months. 
 
 October 29th. We had kept in motion the whole 
 of the preceding night. A cold wind blew most of 
 the time, making it very uncomfortable. It is not a 
 desirable piece of exercise at any time to ride on 
 horseback all night ; but when a person has been in 
 the saddle for thirteen hours the previous day, and 
 continues the journey without rest, it becomes deci- 
 dedly disagreeable ; and when morning dawned upon 
 
90 FREDERICKSBURG 
 
 us, all were pretty well used up. Nor could we now 
 stop to rest. There was yet a long stretch before 
 us to water, which must be reached at the earliest 
 moment. During the night we passed the spot marked 
 on the map as the " Wild China Ponds," which, like the 
 places before referred to, was destitute of water. 
 Great mischief is caused by marking such places on 
 the maps ; and had we not been told that it was 
 doubtful whether water would be found there, we 
 might have been unprepared with a supply, and have 
 suffered accordingly.* From the spongy appearance 
 of the ground near the water-holes, there is no doubt 
 water might be procured by sinking wells, which 
 ought to be done if this road is to be traversed. 
 
 Soon after daylight we halted the train, let the 
 mules graze for an hour on the parched grass, made 
 coffee, and such a breakfast as cold pork and hard 
 bread would furnish. It was quickly dispatched, and 
 
 * On ray return from California in 1852, 1 met several parties of 
 emigrants from Arkansas and Eastern Texas, who had followed our 
 trail from Fredericksburg to El Paso, and who were loud in their denun- 
 ciations of those who had advised them to take this road, and more so 
 of those who furnished them maps, which deceived them as to the water- 
 ing-places. They expected to find water at the localities designated on 
 the maps, and took no precautions in case of meeting with none. On 
 reaching the so-called "Mustang Ponds," they did not recognise them, 
 and sought for them in vain for miles around. At the " Flat Eock" 
 and " Wild China Ponds," they were equally disappointed. They 
 looked about the desert without success. One party was seventy-two 
 hours without tasting water, and came near perishing. Many of their 
 mules and cattle died ; and such as had strength remaining hastened 
 on to the Pecos. There had been no water at either of the places desig- 
 nated during the spring or summer, nor was there any in October or 
 November, when we crossed it. 
 
TO HORSE-HEAD CROSSING. 
 
 91 
 
 the few minutes we had to spare before the wagons 
 were ready to move were seized to have a little rest. 
 Brief as it was, it was a great relief. 
 
 II 
 
 Castle Mountain Pass, Texas. 
 
 Saw a low line of hills far off on our left, and 
 immediately in front a range, called the u Castle 
 Mountains," of considerable elevation. The road led 
 to a gorge through which it was necessary to pass. 
 These mountains derive their name from the project- 
 ing cliffs of limestone, which sometimes assume the 
 appearance of castles. The pass was exceedingly 
 steep, and the road tortuous, frequently running 
 
92 FREDERICKSBURG 
 
 between rocky walls, so close together as to render 
 it impassable for two wagons abreast. These walls 
 were covered with immense cacti wherever the almost 
 perpendicular surface would afford them a foothold. 
 As we entered the pass, we found among the debris 
 of the limestone rock numerous fossil shells. It became 
 necessary here to lock the wagon wheels and advance 
 with great care. We had not proceeded far, when, 
 at an abrupt turn, one of the wagon tongues snapped 
 off. Two hours were lost in repairing this injury, 
 which was effected by lashing two tent-poles to the 
 broken tongue. I took advantage of the delay, and 
 strolled about on the summit of the mountain. Por- 
 tions of this pass are so narrow, that a few Indians 
 well armed could keep off a large body of men. In 
 exploring some of the recesses of this wild and roman- 
 tic spot I noticed many caverns, which, from the quan- 
 tity of bones within, were evidently the habitations or 
 resort of wild beasts. 
 
 On emerging from these mountains, on the western 
 side, several moving objects were discovered. They 
 were at first supposed to be Indians ; but on applying 
 my telescope, they were discovered to be cattle. 
 Several of the men set off in pursuit, and, soon com- 
 ing up with them, drove them to our train. They 
 proved to be quite fat, and had evidently strayed from 
 some herd or train which had preceded us. 
 
 The road here was so excessively sandy, that our 
 nearly exhausted animals could scarcely draw the 
 wagons through it. The sun beat down with fiery 
 force upon us, and we had not a drop of water to 
 relieve our thirst, or that of the poor beasts, who 
 
TO HORSE-HEAD CROSSING. 93 
 
 began to manifest their sufferings in the most piteous 
 cries. 
 
 A march of twelve miles brought us to the river 
 Pecos, on the banks of which, near the Horse -head 
 Crossing, we encamped. 
 
 This river, which is the largest tributary of the 
 Rio Grande, is here about 100 feet in width, and in 
 the deepest part has four feet of water. Unlike all 
 the other streams we had passed, the Pecos has not a 
 single tree or shrub along its banks to mark its course, 
 nor has it any valley or bottom land near. It runs 
 with a dark rapid current between high perpendicu- 
 lar banks, cut through various strata of clay and sand. 
 On both sides is a vast open prairie, entirely destitute 
 of trees, though scantily covered with mezquit chap- 
 poral, and other plants of the desert. The soil is clay 
 and sand, but so blended with saline matter that there 
 is no vegetation save the plants mentioned. A few 
 rushes grow on the margin of the river; but these 
 scarcely appear above its banks, which are here from 
 six to ten feet above the water. It is charged with 
 an earthy substance, of a reddish or brown hue, which 
 imparts its tinge to the water. As we approached, 
 we looked in vain for the usual indications of a 
 stream ; for, owing to the want of trees or bushes, it 
 was not seen until we were within a few yards of it. 
 The Pecos resembles a great canal rather than a 
 river. 
 
 During the latter portion of our route we first came 
 into the proper chapporal, and met the plants peculiar 
 to the flora of Mexico in such quantities as to give a 
 character to the landscape. The term " chapporal," 
 
94 FREDERICKSBURG 
 
 probably meaning a plantation of live-oak, is applied 
 to the growth of shrubbery which forms a striking 
 feature of the country. We have no similar growth 
 at the North to which it can be compared. One may 
 travel for days without seeing a tree higher than one's 
 head ; yet the whole country is covered with a thicket 
 so dense as to be almost impassable to man or beast. 
 The shrubs composing these thickets are, for the 
 greater part, excessively ' thorny. The principal are 
 shrubby mezquit ; rosin wood, or creosote plant, a 
 most disgusting, strong-smelling shrub ; koeblerinia, 
 called "junco " by the Mexicans, a plant armed at all 
 points, every branchlet or twig being sharpened 
 down to a spear ; and various species of yucca. These 
 last, particularly the kind known as Spanish bayonet, 
 are truly formidable, their stiff sharp-pointed leaves 
 being capable of inflicting a dangerous wound. The 
 thorny shrubs enumerated, with various species of 
 prickly pear and other cacti, make up an alliance 
 which one soon learns to treat with proper respect. 
 
 We had no sooner got into camp than one of the 
 fattest oxen we had just secured was killed ; and such 
 a treat of fresh meat as we had, cannot be appreciated 
 but by those who have lived on salt pork for nearly 
 three weeks. We made great calculations on having 
 fresh beef the remainder of our journey, by driving 
 the other two oxen with us; but during the night they 
 escaped. We made a diligent search for them the 
 following day, but they could not be found. 
 
 I have omitted to notice an incident that occurred 
 soon after emerging from the pass in Castle Mountain. 
 Anxious to find the Pecos, I sent off men to search for 
 
TO HORSE-HEAD CROSSING. 95 
 
 it. They returned much alarmed, declaring that they 
 had seen "Indian sign," and pointed out to me in the 
 midst of the vast plain that lay before us the well-known 
 Indian signal of a puff of smoke suddenly rising from 
 the earth. This is produced by making a fire in a hole, 
 and then smothering it with leaves. The hole is sud- 
 denly opened, when the smoke rushes forth in a dense 
 body, and rises high in the air in a perpendicular 
 column. Such columns are often seen in traversing 
 the deserts and plains, and cannot be mistaken. Not 
 knowing but Indians were near, our arms were got 
 ready, and every bush and rock we passed was care- 
 fully scrutinized. No Indians, however, were seen by 
 us ; although at the crossing and near our camp there 
 were fresh tracks of a large number of mules and horses, 
 with a few moccasin prints, which convinced us that a 
 party of Indians had crossed within twenty-four hours 
 of us. 
 
96 HORSE-HEAD CROSSING 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 HORSE-HEAD CROSSING TO DELAWARE CREEK. 
 
 Crossing of the Pecos — Narrow escape from a cold bath — Desolate region — 
 Prize oxen — Stray mule — Populous biscuit — Toyah Creek — Travellers' 
 tokens — Rescue of lost mule — Dreariness and monotony of the Pecos — 
 A horse's somerset — Delaware Creek — Snow-storm, sport, and Erman's 
 Siberia — Mr. Thurber and others despatched to El Paso — Letter to 
 Major Van Home. 
 
 October 30t7i. After our fatiguing march of two 
 days and one night without rest, we slept pretty late 
 this morning ; even the expectation of a fine beefsteak 
 for breakfast could hardly induce either officers or men 
 to turn out. After breakfast, I examined the river with 
 a view of crossing, intending to devote the day to it, 
 and recruit our tired animals. Found the water at the 
 Horse-head Crossing, which was a quarter of a mile 
 from our encampment, to afford the greatest facilities. 
 Here there was a bank about half the height of the 
 main bank, to which there was an easy descent, and 
 one equally so to the water. It is the place where 
 other parties seem to have crossed, and hence rendered 
 easy of access. I noticed a long line of horse or mule 
 skulls placed along the bank, which probably gave it 
 the name it bears. 
 
TO DELAWARE CREEK. 97 
 
 On sounding the river to ascertain its depth, we 
 found that our ambulances (i. e. wagons mounted on 
 springs) would pass over without wetting their con- 
 tents. We therefore unloaded all the wagons but those 
 on springs ; and placing their contents in the latter, 
 we succeeded in passing all our provisions, baggage, 
 etc., over with but little trouble. The west bank 
 was levelled with our spades, to make the ascent from 
 the water easy. I remained with Dr. Webb and Mr. 
 Thurber until all were over, except one empty wagon. 
 This being quite low, its box would be partly immersed 
 in the water ; an ambulance was accordingly sent back 
 for us, and for the contents of my carriage. We entered 
 the stream, which just touched the bottom of the 
 ambulance, but not without some fears, as experience 
 had shown that the best and most gentle mules cannot 
 always be depended upon. When we had reached 
 about two thirds the distance across, or some thirty 
 feet from the opposite bank, the mules either lost their 
 footing, or were swept by the current into deeper water, 
 a little out of the course taken by those which passed 
 over before. Unable to contend against the force of 
 the water, which was almost on a level with their backs, 
 the leaders turned their heads down stream. The 
 teamster, who was mounted as usual on one of the 
 mules next to the wagon, endeavored in vain to bring 
 them to their places with their heads towards the 
 shore. The frightened creatures could not maintain 
 their footing ; and in struggling to extricate themselves, 
 they extended their alarm to the other mules, who 
 began to rear and prance in the water. Just at this 
 moment the last wagon, which had been behind, 
 
 VOL. i. — 7 
 
98 HORSE-HEAD CROSSING 
 
 attempted to pass us, the driver thinking the other 
 mules would follow his team ; but in the attempt, the 
 current swept his wagon, which was half buried in the 
 water, against ours. This brought his mules nearly 
 abreast of mine, and led to greater confusion and 
 alarm. Every moment we expected to be swept away ; 
 in which case our lives would have been in great 
 danger, as it would have been no easy matter to extri- 
 cate ourselves from the close wagon. I could do 
 nothing but call for assistance from the party on the 
 opposite bank, who stood watching our progress and 
 critical situation with breathless suspense. Mr. Cle- 
 ment Young, seizing the end of a picket rope which lay 
 on the bank, sprang into the river without stopping to 
 divest himself of his clothing, and came to our relief. 
 With great difficulty he succeeded in attaching the 
 rope to the leading* mules. Several other gentlemen 
 mounted their horses and sprang into the water at the 
 same time, some to urge the mules towards the shore, 
 and others to extricate the two wagons. The picket 
 rope was now seized by those on the bank, who, pulling 
 with all their strength, brought the heads of the leading 
 mules towards it. The teamsters then putting on the 
 lash, and the horsemen in the water urging our animals 
 forward, they relieved us from our perilous situation, 
 and we gained the bank in safety. 
 
 My carriage was now brought over by lashing 
 beneath it a few empty kegs, with two men in the water 
 to keep it steady. A rope was taken ahead, by means 
 of which the men on the opposite bank drew it safely 
 across. We now pitched our tents, corralled the wagons, 
 and, after a hearty supper, turned in for the night. 
 
TO DELAWARE CREEK. 99 
 
 October 31st. Struck tents and left camp at 7 o'clock, 
 following a northwesterly direction, keeping near the 
 Pecos, the course of which we could occasionally trace 
 by the rushes which grew on its banks. The country 
 continues exceedingly barren and destitute of trees or 
 shrubs, except the thorny chapporal, which generally 
 grows on desert spots. A short grass appears here and 
 there, but is now completely dried up, affording but 
 little nourishment to the animals. Beautiful yuccas 
 were seen in many places, seeming to thrive in the 
 barren soil. Our constant companion, the prickly pear, 
 with other varieties of the cactus family, were con- 
 tent, too, to flourish in these dreary abodes. 
 
 The only living creatures seen to-day were a few 
 blackbirds sitting on the mezquit bushes, so near the 
 road that one might have struck them with a cane, 
 and a herd of antelopes. The latter bounded before 
 us, and were lost to view before our hunters could 
 surround them. The ground beneath us seemed 
 to afford habitations for various burrowing animals, 
 judging from the numerous holes seen by the road 
 side ; but we had no time or means to discover what 
 they were. I presume however that they were the 
 habitations of ground rats and mice, coyotes, polecats, 
 moles, rabbits, rattlesnakes, tarantulas, and other reptiles. 
 As there are no rocky ledges, no thick bushes, or 
 decayed logs or stumps in which these animals can 
 burrow, they must resort to the earth ; hence the vast 
 number of holes which are seen in all such barren and 
 desolate regions. Every animal here named I have 
 myself seen, at various times, enter or make its exit from 
 subterranean abodes. After some difficulty we found 
 
100 HORSE-HEAD CROSSING 
 
 a spot near the river which afforded tolerable grazing 
 for the animals, where we stopped, pitched our tents, 
 and formed our corral. The banks of the river being 
 high and precipitous, it was with difficulty that 
 we watered our animals. One of the horses, in his 
 eagerness to reach the stream, fell over the bank, and 
 was extricated only by the great exertions of the 
 party. A mule, which had exhibited symptoms of 
 illness for several days, gave out to-day and was aban- 
 doned. It was a serious loss to us, for we had already 
 lost four ; and although the weight of our provisions 
 was daily growing less, the weakness of the animals 
 increased still faster, from their long journeys and 
 insufficiency of food. The mercury stood at noon to-day 
 at 82° Fahrenheit. 
 
 November 1st. Determined to make an early start 
 this morning, for which purpose the camp was called 
 at 4 o'clock. Got breakfast and were off at daylight. 
 A little rain fell during the night. The wind was north ; 
 but the weather was warm, and our fears of a " norther," 
 so much dreaded by all prairie travellers, subsided with 
 the appearance of a bright sun. 
 
 Our march to-day has been through a region as 
 barren and desolate as that of yesterday. Continued 
 near the river, avoiding its windings. Noticed large 
 spots covered with a saline efflorescence ; in fact, on 
 examination, the whole earth seemed impregnated with 
 it. The water of the Pecos, which here is quite brack- 
 ish, doubtless derives this flavor from the soil through 
 which it passes. Patches of dry grass and stunted 
 mezquit constitute the chief vegetation. Yuccas 
 and cacti are thinly scattered over the plain : the 
 
TO DELAWARE CREEK. 101 
 
 former, sometimes appearing in groups, seemed like 
 bodies of men ; and many were ready to see an Indian 
 in every resemblance to them which our journey 
 afforded. Passed the carcasses of five oxen lying about 
 the road ; from which we concluded that they had 
 belonged to some emigrant train, and had dropped 
 down from exhaustion, and perished where they fell. 
 Their lank bodies were dried up with the skins still 
 adhering to them, showing that even wolves .do not 
 attempt to find a subsistence on this desolate plain. The 
 remains of wagons were also seen along the road, and 
 furnished our cook with fire-wood, an article which he 
 had had much difficulty in procuring since leaving the 
 Concho River, and particularly since we struck the 
 region near the Pecos. Small brushwood and the 
 roots of mezquit bushes had been our resort for fire- 
 wood for several days. Perhaps it was well for us that 
 we had no fine joints of meat or steaks to cook, with 
 such fuel ; but to fry a bit of pork, to boil some beans, 
 and make coffee, which constituted our chief cooking, 
 a little dry brush answered very well. 
 
 We had another windfall to-day in meeting with 
 two oxen, which were pursued and taken. They 
 proved rather lean ; nevertheless they were an impor- 
 tant addition to our stock of provisions. Took only 
 their hind quarters, which would last as long as they 
 could be preserved. Meat may be kept in this region 
 by cutting it into strips and drying it in the sun ; but 
 we had not time to do this. 
 
 Stopped to water, and to our surprise found a beau- 
 tiful fall in the river, eight or ten feet in height. 
 It flowed between high banks of clay, resting on a 
 
102 HORSE-HEAD CROSSING 
 
 base of conglomerate, over which it clashed with a life 
 and beauty which contrasted pleasantly with its usual 
 dark and treacherous flow. The banks near the fall 
 are high and perpendicular, and expose many thin 
 strata of various brightly colored deposits of sand and 
 marl, presenting a singularly beautiful ribbon-like 
 appearance. A small island or rock, overgrown with 
 rushes, divided the fall. On tasting the water, it was 
 found to be less brackish than at the Crossing. This 
 fall is not noticed on the maps of the country. Passed 
 a stray mule, which, looking plump and strong, I felt 
 desirous to transfer to our wagons. Two or three 
 men went in pursuit of him with lariats ; but he out- 
 stripped them all, and disappeared in the chapporal. 
 At four o'clock, stopped on the bank of the river, 
 near a rapid, where we found the water accessible, 
 and excellent grass for our animals. 
 
 Finding our stock of provisions was fast diminish- 
 ing, I ordered an account taken of them. There 
 proved to be but three hundred and sixty pounds of 
 hard bread, or about ten pounds for each man, which 
 was accordingly divided in this proportion among all. 
 With the usual allowance of a pound a day for each, 
 there was bread enough for ten days. As we could 
 hardly expect to reach El Paso within that time, each 
 man could govern himself accordingly, and save as 
 much as possible for an emergency. But scanty as 
 was our stock, it was unfit to be eaten, being com- 
 pletely riddled with weevils. Hundreds of these insects 
 were found in a single biscuit. To remove them was 
 out of the question ; and there was no alternative but 
 to shut the eyes and munch away. Of salt pork there 
 
TO DELAWARE CREEK. • 103 
 
 was about a half allowance for ten days. The coffee 
 and sugar was all gone. 
 
 November Id. Our route kept on in a westerly 
 course, near the river, which we occasionally distin- 
 guished on our right by the rushes and other plants 
 peculiar to salt marshes, which grew upon its banks. 
 The same barrenness continues, with scarcely a living 
 object. A few blackbirds and sparrows are all that 
 have been seen. Passed five more dried carcasses of 
 oxen lying by the road. Fell in with a cow and 
 yearling calf, and after a pretty good chase succeeded 
 in lassoing the cow. She would not, however, consent 
 to be driven with the train, when she was tied behind 
 a wagon; but so furious did she become at being 
 deprived of her liberty, that it was found necessary to 
 shoot her. The calf was then followed a mile or more, 
 and shared the same fate. Both proved very fat, and 
 a most welcome addition to our supply of food in its 
 diminished state. Passed several depressions near the 
 river, which appeared to have been filled with water. 
 A white efflorescence on their surface showed the extent 
 of the saline matter with which the soil was impreg- 
 nated. Crossed an arroyo or dry bed of a stream, 
 covered with the salty incrustations before alluded to, 
 which we took to be the " Toyah Creek " of the maps. 
 At four o'clock, encamped on the margin of the Pecos, 
 about two miles from the creek. The shrubbery 
 to-day exhibits a larger growth than any we have 
 seen since we crossed the river. 
 
 November 3 c?, Sunday. I was desirous to rest 
 to-day ; and had we been any where except on the 
 banks of the Pecos, I certainly would have done so. 
 
104 HORSE-HEAD CROSSING 
 
 But a due regard for our safety rendered it necessary 
 that we should not stop until beyond its waters and 
 the miserable barren region near it. Should a rain 
 set in, it would make the roads almost impassable for 
 loaded wagons, so tenacious is the soil. The grass, 
 too, but barely sustained life in our worn-out animals. 
 We saw around us evidence of what the road would 
 be in wet weather. Some teams seemed to have 
 passed over it at such a time, leaving ruts six inches 
 deep in the soft, muddy soil. Every day we noticed the 
 clouds with fear and trembling, and watched each 
 change in the weather. The roads are now hard and 
 smooth, and have been so since we struck the river. 
 
 Our route has been over the same flat and desert 
 plain before described. Not a living thing has crossed 
 our path, beast, bird, or reptile, except two large 
 white swans, which were doubtless winging their way 
 to more attractive regions. They lit on a marshy 
 place, which I endeavored to approach ; but even 
 in this out of the way spot, which the human foot sel- 
 dom treads, they flew at my approach. Scattering 
 patches of dried grass, with low chapporal, and an 
 occasional yucca, constituted the vegetation of the 
 twenty-two miles passed over to-day. In order to 
 find a good spot for our encampment, two or three of 
 the party diverged from the road, and succeeded in 
 discovering a little nook on the river's bank, where 
 there was good grass. Several hours before stopping, 
 we got a glimpse of the Guadalupe Mountains, and a 
 range of hills through which we must pass, although 
 more than 100 miles off in a direct line, in a north-west- 
 erly direction. Mounts Diavolo and Carrizo, which 
 
TO DELAWARE CREEK. 105 
 
 had been visible to the westward, seventy or eighty- 
 miles distant, since crossing the. Pecos, to-day were 
 lost to our view. 
 
 Passed the carcasses of four cattle by the road 
 side ; and in another place, where there was a slight 
 depression in the plain, and where water had at some 
 time accumulated after rains, there lay the carcasses 
 of five more, which had doubtless mired in endea- 
 voring to satiate their thirst. Portions of wagons, 
 boxes, and barrels were also noticed along the road. 
 
 November 4:th. Still journeying along the river. 
 Barren plains continue, with fewer mezquit than 
 before. Dried grass and weeds prevail. Many car- 
 casses and skeletons of oxen, and several skeletons of 
 mules, marked our route to-day, as well as the remains 
 of broken wagons. As the prairie did not furnish us 
 fuel to make our fires, we gathered up the fragments 
 of the wagons and carried them with us for the pur- 
 pose. Noticed along the road recent tracks of Indians, 
 horses, and mules ; or, in the language of the country, 
 " Indian sign." The tracks of the animals showed 
 that they were unshod, which would not have been 
 the case if it had been an American party. Next we 
 observed prints of moccasins, which are easily distin- 
 guished from the American shoe, or from the sandal or 
 moccasin of the Mexicans. Then the freshness of the 
 foot-prints and of the dung, showed that the party 
 could not have preceded us more than a few hours. In 
 this belief we were strengthened by seeing large fires 
 some fifteen or twenty miles off on the prairie, early in 
 the evening. 
 
 Much sagacity is shown by experienced hunters 
 
106 HORSE-HEAD CROSSING 
 
 and frontier men in detecting "signs" on the prairie, 
 when and by whom made, the strength of the parties, 
 their direction, etc., whether Indians, Mexicans, or 
 Americans. So with the places where there have 
 been encampments. These the wary traveller on the 
 prairie inspects with care, to see whether friend or 
 enemy has preceded him. If Indians, he will find 
 poles from their wigwams, fragments of skins, scraps 
 of leather ties, beads, etc. ; and a little experience 
 will enable him to distinguish the tribe, whether 
 Comanches, Lipans, or Apaches. The principal cha- 
 racteristic, I believe, is the form of their wigwams. 
 One sets up erect poles, another bends them over in 
 a circular form, and the third gives them a low oval 
 shape. There is also a difference in their moccasins, 
 and the foot-prints they make. I know not the precise 
 form of the Comanche and Lipan moccasins; but 
 the Apaches assured me they could tell the foot- 
 prints of the Comanches, the Mescaleros, the Yutas, 
 the Coyoteros, or the Navahoes, and pointed out the 
 distinctive marks of several. Different tribes of 
 Indians have their peculiar fashions as well as civi- 
 lized races, which are chiefly shown in their modes of 
 dressing their hair and their coverings for the feet. 
 American emigrants or travellers leave many marks to 
 indicate their nationality and character, such as scraps 
 of newspapers, bits of segars, fragments of hard bread, 
 pieces of hempen rope, and other things. Mexicans 
 would not be likely to have either of the articles 
 named, but would be detected by the remains of 
 cigarritos (small paper segars), pieces of raw hide, 
 which they use instead of rope, etc. Or if they left 
 
TO DELAWARE CREEK. 107 
 
 any portion of their camp equipage, or cooking uten- 
 sils, they would differ from those of Americans. The 
 remains of their food, too, would differ. Tortillas, 
 tamaules, frijoles, Chili Colorado, and dried beef would 
 appear ; instead of hard bread, fried pork, beef-steak, 
 etc.* If a Mexican wears a shoe, it will be very dif- 
 ferent in form from an American one. 
 
 The extent of a party is shown by the number of 
 foot-prints. This cannot be told while it is in motion, 
 as there may be a large number of animals driven in a 
 herd with but few riders ; but when the camp fires are 
 examined, the number of persons can be detected with 
 a considerable degree of certainty. The freshness of 
 the foot-prints, the dung of the animals, and other signs 
 show how recently a party may have passed ; and there 
 are other marks by which its rate of travelling can be 
 ascertained. 
 
 Many are complaining to-day of illness, from indul- 
 ging in fresh meat. It is hard to restrain travellers 
 who have been living on salt pork, and but a scanty 
 allowance of that, when a superabundance of fine fresh 
 beef and veal is placed before them. 
 
 I have omitted to mention an incident that occurred, 
 one of those which help to make up the chapter of 
 events, and show the difficulties of our mode of travel- 
 ling. Soon after we retired, there was a cry from the 
 guard of " Turn out all hands, a mule in the river. " The 
 men all rushed from their tents, lanterns were lit, and 
 
 % Tortillas are their cakes of corn, or wheaten flour. Tamaules are 
 minced meat, rolled up in corn shucks, and baked on coals. Frijoles, 
 dark Mexican beans. Chili Colorado, red peppers. 
 
108 HORSE-HEAD CROSSING 
 
 ropes taken to rescue the animal ; for we could not 
 afford to lose another. It appeared that in grazing 
 too near the bank, which was here some ten or fifteen 
 feet above the river, and very precipitous, he had 
 fallen over. Several men descended by the aid of 
 ropes, and searched along the bank ; but the poor 
 creature could not be found, and it was supposed 
 that he had been swept away by the current. When 
 about to move this morning, a neighing was heard 
 on the opposite side of the river, which proved to 
 proceed from our lost mule. One of the men swam 
 across with a rope, pursued and captured him and 
 forced him over the steep bank, when he was drawn 
 across the river. The bank was then levelled, and, 
 by hard lifting and pulling, the animal was raised up 
 and brought back in safety. 
 
 Encamped at half-past three p. m. after travelling 
 hours ; our mules coming in greatly fatigued. 
 
 November 5th. Intended making an early start this 
 morning; but when we came to hitch up the poor 
 mules, they looked so lank and miserable, that we 
 thought it best to turn them out again for a few hours 
 to graze. Again we pursued our course along the 
 river for a few miles, when we left it in the hope that 
 we should not see it again ; but we were doomed to 
 disappointment, in coming plump upon it an hour after. 
 We had now followed its dreary and monotonous banks 
 for six days, and longed for a change of scene. Even 
 the Jornada of sixty-five miles presented novelties which 
 the Pecos had not. The constant fear of being over- 
 taken by a storm, the brackish water, and that always 
 difficult to obtain, the miserable grass, and the deficiency 
 
TO DELAWARE CREEK. 109 
 
 of wood helped to render this portion of our journey 
 most disagreeable; and but for the broken wagons 
 that were providentially left in our way, we could not 
 have procured wood enough to cook our food. The 
 river and adjacent country here present the same aspect 
 as below. In width it now varied from fifty to ninety 
 feet, with steep banks of clay or sand from twelve to 
 twenty feet in height. Its rapidity may be somewhat 
 less than at the Horse-head Crossing. 
 
 On stopping to water our animals at the last halt 
 made on the everlasting Pecos, one of our Mexican horses 
 was suffered to nibble at the scanty grass on the river 
 bank, while the party were taking a lunch. His dangerous 
 situation was observed by one of the teamsters, who step- 
 ped forward to lead him away. Resisting the benevolent 
 intention thus manifested towards him, the animal, 
 as a matter of course, determined to progress back- 
 wards ; and over the bank he went, nearly dragging 
 the man after him. The bank was here full twenty 
 feet high, one half being perpendicular, and the other, 
 formed of the debris, nearly so. We all rushed to 
 its edge, expecting to witness the last struggle of the 
 poor beast, when, to our surprise, we saw him on his 
 feet nearly covered with water. The comical look of 
 the animal, as he rolled up his eyes at us, and the pre- 
 dicament he had placed himself in by his stubbornness, 
 brought forth a hearty laugh from all. A man was let 
 down by a rope, who succeeded in bringing him back 
 to the camp none the worse for his fall and somerset. 
 
 Leaving the Pecos we took a direction a little north 
 of west over a range of hills composed of gravel and 
 marl. The road pursued a winding course among the 
 
110 HORSE-HEAD CROSSING 
 
 hills and across deep ravines. At one place we stop- 
 ped to look at some limestone sinks near the road. The 
 earth and stone had caved in, or sunk, in spots varying 
 from ten to thirty feet in diameter. The ground for 
 Borne distance around appeared hollow and cavernous. 
 The country since leaving the river was well covered 
 with grass, but entirely destitute of trees or shrubs. 
 At 4 o'clock reached Delaware or Sabine Creek, sixteen 
 miles from the Pecos, and pitched our tents on a spot 
 where there appeared to have been a very large 
 encampment a few months before. Besides the frag- 
 ments, there was one large Pennsylvania wagon nearly 
 complete, numerous ox-yokes, boxes, barrels, etc., etc. 
 These were collected and carried to our camp for fire- 
 wood ; and very acceptable they proved, for the banks 
 of the creek did not furnish a bit of wood as large as 
 one's finger. As the grass was abundant here and of 
 the best description, with excellent water, I determined 
 to halt to recruit the animals, and gave orders accord- 
 ingly. The poor creatures were much in need of rest, • 
 for several had already given out and had to be removed 
 from the wagons. Two colonies of prairie dogs were 
 seen to-day after leaving the Pecos, the first we had 
 noticed since leaving the great Jornada beyond Castle 
 Mountain. 
 
 November 6th. Was aroused in the night by the 
 whistling of the wind. Feeling a great change in the 
 temperature, I looked out of my carriage window, and 
 to my surprise found the ground covered with snow. 
 There was no sleep after this ; and as soon as morning 
 dawned, I got up to inspect the condition of the party 
 and the animals, and to see what could be done for 
 
TO DELAWARE CREEK. Ill 
 
 their comfort. The dreaded Norther I had so much 
 feared when near the Pecos, had now come upon us 
 with all its fury and in its very worst shape, accom- 
 panied with snow. But bad as Our condition was, it 
 might have been worse. We had escaped the inhospi- 
 table region of the Pecos, where the water was unfit to 
 drink, scarcely any grazing was to be had for our 
 animals, and no wood wherewith to cook our food. 
 Here the grass was excellent and abundant, the water 
 was pure, and the calamities of others furnished us with 
 broken wagons and other articles for fire-wood. But 
 our poor animals had no shelter from the pitiless storm, 
 there being not a tree to break the force of the keen 
 blast which seemed to pierce them to the quick. A few 
 isolated bushes grew near the camp, but nothing that 
 afforded a covering. During the day, many wandered 
 off, probably to seek a shelter ; and at one time, ten 
 men were gone in pursuit of them. Some of the horses 
 had strayed seven miles before they were taken. 
 
 The only means to add to our comfort were to bank 
 the earth around the tents to keep out the snow and 
 the cold blasts ; to bring our overcoats and India-rub- 
 ber garments into requisition ; and to keep up as large 
 fires as the broken wagons and boxes would admit of. 
 
 Finding it very hard to keep warm even by the 
 fire, with the cold wind and snow beating on my back, 
 I laid aside my heavy blanket, put on my India-rubber 
 cloak and long boots, and took my double-barrelled gun 
 to see what virtue there was in a little sport by way of 
 exercise. The result proved to be better than remain- 
 ing still, roasting and freezing alternately by the fire. 
 The excitement and exercise restored the circulation, 
 
112 HORSE-HEAD CROSSING 
 
 and the satisfaction of procuring several brace of 
 ducks amply repaid the hardship of facing the storm. 
 Removing my India-rubbers I again wrapped my 
 blanket around me, seated myself in my carriage 
 with Dr. Webb, and there spent the remainder of the 
 long day in reading Erman's Travels in Siberia, a 
 proper book for the occasion. The young men took it 
 very calmly, spending the time at the camp fires or in 
 their tents. So passed the day. 
 
 November ^ith. In camp, on Delaware Creek. 
 Passed a cold and sleepless night. The sharp wind 
 found its way through the openings in the carriage, 
 which all the blankets I could pile on would not keep 
 out. The young gentlemen crowded themselves in 
 their tents, and lay as close as possible ; while the 
 teamsters, laborers, etc., stowed themselves in the 
 wagons. The morning was sharp and cold ; the snow 
 continued to fall, and the wind remained at the north, 
 though blowing less than the previous day. 
 
 I was desirous to resume our march ; but the 
 teamsters and others, whose experience among mules 
 was greater than mine, thought it impracticable. To 
 do so they said would result in our discomfort and 
 perhaps ruin: for the animals would assuredly give 
 out and leave us much worse off than we were at pre- 
 sent. I yielded to their representations and determined 
 to remain a while longer: for we were in a good 
 encampment with grass and water at hand, and the 
 flooring of our tents was dry — a consideration of 
 great importance. No one had taken cold or shown 
 symptoms of illness. Before leaving San Antonio my 
 friends told me that at this season of the year we could 
 
TO DELAWARE CREEK. 113 
 
 hardly expect to escape the Northers, and advised me 
 if overtaken by one not to move, but encamp at once, 
 and keep quiet until it had passed. But in determining 
 to remain I thought it most prudent to send a small 
 party in advance to El Paso, now about one hundred 
 and sixty-five miles off, for assistance. 
 
 I ordered another inventory to be made of our 
 provisions, and found nothing remaining but a limited 
 supply of hard bread and pork ; every thing else was 
 gone. If we kept on, we might reach El Paso by 
 parching the few remaining bushels of corn and taking 
 an occasional mule steak • but if compelled to remain 
 here two or three days we should be reduced to a very 
 short allowance. Messrs. Thurber, Moss, and Weems 
 at once volunteered their services to go to El Paso. 
 No time was lost therefore in fitting them out. They 
 selected three of the hardiest riding animals ; put 
 up four days' provisions, which they put in bags 
 and hung to their saddles ; fastened their blankets 
 behind them ; and set off in the midst of the storm, 
 two hours after it was determined to send them. One 
 of the teamsters named Pratt, a very useful and 
 energetic man, accompanied them. I gave them the 
 following letter to Major Van Home, commanding at 
 El Paso : 
 
 "Mexican Boundary Commission in Camp, 
 
 "Delaware Creek, Nov. 7, 1850. 
 
 " Sir : I reached this place on the afternoon of the 
 5th instant with a portion of the United States Boundary 
 Commission, having left the main body at San Antonio 
 to follow immediately. My desire being to reach El 
 
 VOL. I. 8 
 
114 HORSE-HEAD CROSSING TO DELAWARE CREEK. 
 
 Paso as early as possible after the first of November, 
 we took provisions but for thirty days. 
 
 "I now find myself overtaken by a Norther and 
 severe snow-storm ; my animals are much reduced by 
 fatigue, and there is a probability that I shall fall short 
 of provisions, in case the storm should continue. 
 Under these circumstances I have deemed it prudent 
 for the safety of my party to send four of them to 
 El Paso, to procure aid to enable me to reach there as 
 soon as possible. In the meantime I shall advance as 
 soon as the weather will permit, and hope to reach the 
 Guadalupe Pass in season to meet the return messenger. 
 " I shall be glad if you can send to my aid the 
 following, viz. : ten mules, to be returned, in good 
 condition ; and bread, pork, sugar, and coffee sufficient 
 for my party for five days : for which I will pay you 
 on my arrival. 
 
 " I am, very respectfully, 
 
 " Your obedient servant, 
 "JOHN R. BARTLETT, 
 Commissioner. 
 " To Major J. Van Horne, 
 Commanding, 
 
 El Paso del Norte, Texas." 
 
DELAWARE CREEK TO EL PASO. 115 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 DELAWARE CREEK TO EL PASO. 
 
 Difficulty of proceeding — Set out with a small party in advance — 
 View of Guadalupe Mountain — Boiling Spring — Deceptive clearness of 
 the atmosphere — Guadalupe Pass — Descent to the plain — Meet Mr. 
 Coon's train — Hospitality — Mr. Thurber's note — Take leave of the 
 train — Oornudos del Alamo — Thome's Well — Ojos del Alamo — Waco 
 Mountain Pass — Waco Tanks — Meet Messrs. Thurher and Weems on 
 their return — Arrival at El Paso — Itinerary of route — Remarks on the 
 country traversed — Its adaptability to a public road. 
 
 November 8th. Canip on Delaware Creek. With 
 great delight I rose from my carriage bed this morning 
 at the first peep of day, to find the weather had mode- 
 rated. Soon after the sun beamed forth in all his 
 splendor, and with it the hope that we should be able 
 to resume our journey. After a few hours delay in 
 packing the tents, arranging our camp equipage, and 
 drying the collars of the mules, the pleasing sound was 
 heard from the teamsters of "All ready!" when we 
 left camp, and, immediately crossing the creek, emerged 
 on the more elevated bank beyond. The dry earth 
 and the warm sun soon absorbed or evaporated the 
 snow, so that our progress was but little impeded. 
 But we had not proceeded many miles before the 
 mules showed symptoms of fatigue and suffering from 
 
116 DELAWAEE CREEK 
 
 the effects of the cold. Several gave out entirely, 
 hung their heads, and sank to the ground, or refused 
 to move further. These were necessarily removed 
 from the teams, so that several of the wagons were 
 reduced to two feeble mules. As my carriage mules 
 were in better condition, I had got some distance in 
 advance, when word was brought me that the animals 
 were giving out so fast that it would be necessary for 
 us to encamp at the first place where good grass and 
 water could be found. A few miles further brought 
 us again to Delaware Creek, where, finding good grass 
 as well as fuel, we stopped and encamped. Dr. Webb 
 and myself walked the entire distance to-day. An 
 examination of the mules soon showed that in their 
 present condition our progress must be very slow, not 
 exceeding twelve or fifteen miles a day ; and that it 
 would be absolutely necessary to give them a couple 
 of days' rest where there was good grazing. This 
 delay would destroy all my plans of reaching my place 
 of destination within the period required, and exhaust 
 our provisions before the supply sent for could arrive. 
 I determined, therefore, as my carriage mules were in 
 good order, to push on myself. With this view I made 
 up a party consisting of Dr. Webb, Messrs. Murphy, 
 Cremony, Matthews, Young, and Thompson; these, 
 with my carriage driver and another, made eight 
 persons, a party I believed sufficiently strong to go 
 through in safety. We selected good animals, and 
 made such preparations as were necessary during the 
 afternoon and evening, to insure an early start in the 
 morning. A sack of our remaining corn was lashed to 
 the axle-tree of my carriage for the mules. Some salt 
 
TO EL PASO. 117 
 
 pork was cooked, which, with hard bread, was stowed 
 inside, while the unoccupied space inside and out was 
 filled with bedding. A tent could not be taken, as 
 the carriage was already too heavily burdened. 
 
 November 9th. Up at four o'clock ; took a hearty 
 breakfast, and was ready to move as soon as there 
 was sufficient light to see the road. Started at a lively 
 pace, intending to make a good march. The road was 
 quite tortuous, winding among and over hills, in a 
 direction nearly west, towards the bold head of the 
 great Guadalupe Mountain, which had been before us 
 some eight or ten days. This is a most remarkable 
 landmark, rising as it does far above all other objects, 
 and terminating abruptly about three thousand feet 
 above the surrounding plain. The sierra or mountain 
 range which ends with it, comes from the north- 
 east. It is a dark, gloomy-looking range, with bold 
 and forbidding sides, consisting of huge piles of rocks, 
 their debris heaped far above the surrounding hills. 
 As it approaches its termination the color changes to a 
 pure white, tinted with buff or light orange, presenting 
 a beautiful contrast with other portions of the range, 
 or with the azure blue of the sky beyond ; for in this 
 elevated region the heavens have a remarkable bril- 
 liancy and depth of color. 
 
 The low hills we passed are woodless, and sparsely 
 covered with grass. Limestone occasionally protrudes 
 from the hills, while the soil is hard and gravelly, with 
 an occasional patch of sand. Stopped to water the 
 animals at the head waters of Delaware Creek, probably 
 Walnut Creek, about fifteen miles from camp, when we 
 continued our course towards the head of the Guada- 
 
118 DELAWARE CREEK 
 
 lupe Mountain, reaching a boiling spring about five 
 o'clock. There are here three fine springs, one of 
 which tasted strongly of sulphur; the second seemed 
 impregnated with salts of soda, while the third 
 was very pure. Found good grazing in the valley 
 where we stopped, with a little grove of trees, a pretty 
 place to have spent a day in, had circumstances 
 rendered it proper ; but while our animals were in a 
 condition to move, I determined to press them to their 
 utmost. Estimated distance travelled to-day, thirty- 
 five miles. 
 
 The Guadalupe had been before us the whole day, 
 and we all expected to reach it within a couple of 
 hours after leaving camp. But hour after hour we 
 drove directly towards it, without seeming to approach 
 nearer ; and finally, after journeying ten hours, the 
 mountain seemed to be as distant as it was in the 
 morning. Such is the great clearness of the atmos- 
 phere here, that one unused to measuring distances 
 in elevated regions is greatly deceived in his cal- 
 culations. When this mountain was first discovered 
 we were more than one hundred miles off. Even 
 then its features stood out boldly against the blue 
 sky ; and when the rays of the morning sun were shed 
 upon it, it exhibited every outline of its rugged sides 
 with as much distinctness as a similar object would in 
 the old States at one fifth the distance. Often have I 
 gazed at the Katskill Mountains in sailing down the 
 Hudson ; and though at a distance of but twelve 
 miles, I never saw them as distinctly, as the Guada- 
 lupe Mountain appeared sixty miles off. 
 
 For several miles before reaching the springs we 
 
TO EL PASO. 119 
 
 had in vain tried to pick up wood enough to make a 
 fire ; but none could be found, not even roots or brush- 
 wood. Still the good fortune which had attended us 
 in our journey did not desert us here. A disabled 
 wagon, with its large box, lay near the springs. This 
 not only furnished us with fuel for a fire, but the box, 
 which was whole, served as a sleeping-place for four 
 of the party. This was placed on one side of the fire, 
 and the carriage drawn up on the other. As we were 
 near one of the notorious lurking-places of the Apa- 
 ches, a strict guard was kept up, and relieved every 
 hour during the night. 
 
 November 10th. Two hours before day my car- 
 riage driver was out with the mules to give them an 
 early feed, while we managed to make a pot of tea 
 from a canister, which I always carried with me for 
 such occasions. This, with cold pork and hard bread, 
 made our breakfast ; but meagre as it was, it was 
 taken with a relish. We then filled our leather water 
 tank, and were on our journey before the sun peeped 
 over the adjacent hills to our left. No sunrise at sea 
 or from the mountain's summit could equal in gran- 
 deur that which we now beheld, when the first rays 
 struck the snow-clad mountain, which reared its lofty 
 head before us. The projecting cliffs of white and 
 orange stood out in bold relief against the azure sky, 
 while the crevices and gorges, filled with snow, 
 showed their inequalities with a wonderful distinctness. 
 At the same time the beams of the sun playing on the 
 snow produced the most brilliant ' and ever-changing 
 iris hues. No painter's art could reproduce, or colors 
 imitate, these gorgeous prismatic tints. 
 
120 DELAWARE CREEK 
 
 Five or six miles, over a hilly though very hard 
 road, brought us to the base of the mountain, where 
 we noticed a grove of live-oaks and pines, with water 
 near them ; but as it was too early to water our ani- 
 mals, we did not stop. At this spring a train was 
 attacked a few months before we passed, and four 
 men killed. As we now began to descend, I got out 
 of the carriage, preferring to go on foot. I could 
 thus the more readily lock and unlock the wheels 
 when necessary. The road here, after passing through 
 long defiles, winds for some distance along the side 
 of the mountain. Now it plunges down some deep 
 abyss, and then it suddenly rises again upon some 
 little castellated spur, so that one almost imagines 
 himself to be in a veritable fortress. Again we pass 
 along the brink of a deep gorge, whose bottom, 
 filled with trees, is concealed from our view, while the 
 evergreen cedar juts forth here and there from the 
 chasms in its sides. Winding and turning in every 
 direction, we followed the intricacies of the Guada- 
 lupe Pass for at least six hours; and whenever the 
 prospect opened before us, there stood the majestic 
 bluff in all its grandeur, solitary and alone. In one place 
 the road runs along the mountain on a bare rocky 
 shelf not wide enough for two wagons to pass, and 
 the next moment passes down through an immense 
 gorge, walled by mountains of limestone, regularly 
 terraced. As we were descending from this narrow 
 ledge, the iron bolt which held the tongue of the car- 
 riage broke and let it drop. Nothing but iron would 
 do to repair the injury ; and after trying various 
 expedients, a substitute for the broken bolt- was 
 
TO EL PASO. 121 
 
 found in the bail or handle of the tin kettle which 
 held our provisions. This, being doubled and driven 
 through the hole previously filled by the bolt, kept it 
 in its place, while the tongue was supported by cords. 
 By careful driving, and relieving the weight of the 
 carriage by alighting when going over bad places, 
 we got along tolerably well. 
 
 I regretted that we were not able to spend more 
 time in this interesting Pass, the grandeur of which 
 would, under any other circumstances, have induced 
 us to linger ; but we had too much at stake to waste a 
 single hour. Many new forms of cacti were seen 
 here; and upon emerging from it, we observed in 
 quantities the fouquiera (I know no other name for 
 it) covering the gravel knolls. This singular shrub 
 throws up from just above the surface of the ground 
 numerous simple stems, eight or ten feet high, armed 
 with sharp hooked thorns. 
 
 On reaching the summit of the line of hills, which 
 completely surround the Guadalupe range on the 
 western side, we looked down upon a broad plain, 
 stretching out as far as the eye could reach. The 
 Sacramento Mountains, which are but the continuation 
 of the Guadalupe range, extend from east to west for 
 a distance of more than a hundred miles, terminating, 
 like the latter, in a bold bluff, when another range 
 seems to intersect them from the north. Far to the 
 north-west we could see the Cornudos del Alamo like 
 two great mounds rising from a vast plain, while to 
 the south-west the horizon was bounded by a faint blue 
 outline of mountains, with jagged tops. The plain 
 appeared level from the height at which we viewed it, 
 
12 'L DELAWARE CREEK 
 
 and was interspersed with what looked like silvery 
 and tranquil lakes, glittering in the sun, seeming, as it 
 were, to tempt the weary traveller to their brink. 
 Our young men cried out " Water! " delighted with the 
 idea of again enjoying this luxury after a long day's 
 ride. But the whole turned out a delusion; what 
 appeared to be the glassy surface of a lake or pond, 
 being nothing but the saline incrustations of a dried 
 up lake. The vast plain, or desert, as it may with 
 more propriety be called, as far as the eye could 
 reach, was dotted with these saline depressions. 
 
 Before we had got through this pass we came 
 upon another broken wagon, and among its iron work 
 were so fortunate as to find a bolt precisely the size 
 of the one we had broken. The wire was quickly 
 knocked out, and the bolt inserted in its place ; after 
 which the driver put on his whip, and we rolled over 
 the hard and excellent road at a rapid pace. 
 
 The summit of the mountain appears to be covered 
 with heavy pine timber ; but its rocky sides exhibit 
 no foliage, except in the deep chasms which run from 
 it in every direction. At its base, too, we noticed 
 large trees of pine, oak, cedar, etc. 
 
 We had now ridden the entire day without water 
 for our animals, not discovering a spring which is 
 noted on the map as Ojo del Cuerjpo, and at which I 
 had proposed stopping. Our leather tank was empty, 
 and I began to feel anxious on our own account, as the 
 next water laid down on the map is at the Cornudos del 
 Alamo, thirty miles distant. The road was now pretty 
 good, and we went over it on a fast trot. On the left 
 we passed a range of hills of pure white sand, the 
 
TO EL PASO. 123 
 
 same we saw when the plain first opened to us, and 
 which we supposed to be water, and a few miles 
 further the dry bed of a lake, with a white surface, 
 appearing also like water. It was quite rough and 
 hilly here. Clumps of bushes grew in the intervening 
 valleys, which I sent parties. to examine, in the hope 
 of finding water, but without success. 
 
 While pondering whether to push on or encamp 
 where we were, without water, we discovered far off 
 in the plain, directly before us, what appeared to be 
 a large encampment. Smoke was curling up from 
 many fires ; and we descried a long line of white 
 objects. Took my spy-glass, and discovered the white 
 dots to be so many wagons stretching over the plain ; 
 all which assured us we had nothing to fear. The 
 pleasant prospect of again meeting with our country- 
 men quite raised our drooping spirits. The weary 
 animals, who doubtless smelt the water, as mules 
 always do, from a great distance, seemed to rouse 
 themselves to new exertions. A rapid drive of four 
 miles brought us to the encampment, which proved to 
 be a train of about sixty large wagons, with govern- 
 ment stores, bound for El Paso. It belonged to Mr. 
 Coons, and left Indianola, on the coast, in April, and 
 San Antonio in June last. After sustaining extensive 
 losses of wagons and animals, they arrived here fifty- 
 six days before us, and were forced to remain, as 
 there was not water between this place and El Paso 
 for so large a number of animals as they had with 
 them. The distance was said to be about one hun- 
 dred miles. Their wagons were mostly drawn by 
 oxen, which could not travel more than fifteen miles 
 
124 DELAWARE CREEK 
 
 a day, and would therefore require six days to reach 
 their place of destination. The train here was in 
 charge of Mr. Percy, who, after waiting several weeks 
 in the hope that there would be rain, had sent a mes- 
 senger to the commanding officer at El Paso, inform- 
 ing him of his situation, and requesting assistance. 
 Parties were now on their way from the Rio Grande, 
 bringing water in barrels, which were to be deposited 
 at several points for the use of the animals, to enable 
 them to complete their journey. 
 
 On approaching the encampment we were sur- 
 rounded by sixty or seventy teamsters, who, ragged, 
 dirty, and unshaven, crowded around us; for, with 
 the exception of Mr. Thurber and his party, who had 
 stopped here the day before, they had seen no one 
 from the "States" since their departure from San 
 Antonio in June. They had had a long and painful 
 journey to this place, and suffered much for the want 
 of water. Their animals had given out in many places, 
 which had caused hundreds to be left behind; and 
 many of their wagons had been disabled or rendered 
 useless for want of means to draw them. Besides 
 draught animals, a large herd, embracing several hun- 
 dred beef cattle, had been driven with the train ; 
 and among these there had been great mortality. The 
 stray cattle we had seen, and a few of which we had 
 secured, were doubtless some which had luckily been 
 left near a spot where there was grass and water, 
 which enabled them to recover their strength. 
 
 Mr. Percy, the gentleman in charge of the wagons, 
 gave us a warm reception, and kindly offered to let me 
 have the provisions I was so desirous to procure for the 
 
TO EL PASO. 125 
 
 relief of the party I had left behind, on my giving a 
 receipt for them to the U. S. Quarter-master on my 
 arrival at El Paso. Having eaten nothing since day- 
 light, we feasted with great relish on our cold pork and 
 biscuit. Our generous host ordered supper for us, but 
 we were too hungry to wait ; though I believe most of 
 the party accepted his invitation, and did full justice to 
 a second meal before retiring to their blankets. Mr. 
 Percy, who had the only tent in his party, gave places 
 to as many as could stow themselves within it. Esti- 
 mated the distance travelled to-day to be thirty-eight 
 miles. 
 
 November l\th. In camp at Salt Lake, near Guada- 
 lupe Mountains. The lake, or rather pond, near which 
 we are encamped, is a small body of water covering 
 three or four acres, surrounded on all sides by an open 
 prairie or plain, in which there are scattering bushes, 
 with patches of pretty good grass : no trees are to be 
 seen, nearer than the base of the mountain. The pond 
 is resorted to by wild ducks, plover, and other water- 
 fowl, in great numbers ; but the continued proximity of 
 so large a body of men as Mr. Percy's party, has made 
 them less plentiful and quite shy. Still I managed to 
 shoot a few before breakfast. 
 
 The following note left here by Mr. Thurber, gives 
 the particulars of his journey. It was intended to be 
 sent to the spring at the Guadalupe Pass. 
 
 Coon's Camp, near Salt Lake, 
 November 9, 1850. 
 
 "Sir: After leaving you at the camp on Dela- 
 ware Creek, we made the best progress the storm would 
 permit. The snow balled in the feet of our animals so 
 
126 DELAWARE CREEK 
 
 badly, that we were forced to halt about 11 o'clock at 
 night. We bivouacked in the snow without fire. On 
 the morning of yesterday, we were obliged to melt 
 snow in order to obtain water for our breakfast. We 
 found the road through the mountain, particularly in 
 the gorges, much obstructed by snow of such an adhe- 
 sive nature, that our animals could work their way but 
 slowly, although without their riders. We found but 
 little snow in the most difficult portions of the pass. 
 Pratt's horse became so completely disabled, that we 
 had great difficulty in urging him along, and have been 
 much delayed on his account. We did not succeed in 
 finding the " Ojo del Cuerpo," which, according to 
 Ford and Neighbors, "breaks up in the plain;" but 
 we were obliged to encamp without water for our 
 animals, and with but a gill for each of ourselves. 
 This morning we started very early, and soon came in 
 sight of an encampment, which, on reaching it, we found 
 to be Coon's train, which left San Antonio on the 10th 
 June, with government supplies for El Paso. This is 
 the train whose stray cattle and broken wagons have 
 so frequently furnished us with food and fuel, since 
 crossing the Pecos. We were received with great 
 hospitality by Mr. Percy, who is in command in the 
 absence of Mr. Coon. 
 
 " I would suggest the propriety of stopping at the 
 spring, at the base of the mountain, where there is 
 good grazing, and to recruit the animals before 
 attempting the pass. I fear we shall be obliged to 
 leave Mr. Pratt here, as his horse is utterly unable to 
 go on. 
 
 " A party of men are going back as far as the spring 
 
TO EL PASO. 127 
 
 alluded to above, to herd oxen. I shall send this letter 
 and a small supply of sugar and coffee by them. Mr. 
 Scallen, the bearer of this, will direct you to watering 
 places this side of the pass, which we missed, not 
 knowing where to find them. It will be necessary to 
 fill up the water kegs here. The water, though smell- 
 ing strongly of sulphuretted hydrogen, is not unpala- 
 table. All kinds of provisions are very high and scarce 
 in El Paso. Flour is $92 a barrel ; coffee, sugar, and 
 pork, 50 cents per pound. We are all in good spirits, 
 and move from here at noon. 
 
 " Very truly, your obedient servant, 
 
 " George Thurber. 
 
 " John E. Bartlett, Esq. 
 Commissioner." 
 
 After partaking of a hearty breakfast, provided for 
 us by Mr. Percy, we made preparations to start, deter- 
 mined to press through, believing that we should find 
 water enough for our small party at the three springs, or 
 watering places, between us and the Rio Grande, which 
 was yet about one hundred and eight miles off. But we 
 had expectations from another source : as Mr. Daguerre, 
 who had just arrived from El Paso, informed me that 
 his wagons were on the way to the camp bringing 
 water for Mr. Coon's train, which they were depositing 
 at certain points on the road; and he most generously 
 gave me permission to use it, if we found none at the 
 watering places, and should require it for ourselves or 
 for our animals. 
 
 While making our preparations to start, Mr. Percy 
 filled our kettle with some excellent boiled beef, bread, 
 
128 DELAWARE CREEK 
 
 coffee, and sugar, — an acceptable addition to our stock 
 of pork and hard bread, which, though very good, 
 was not sufficient to carry us to our journey's end. 
 In fact, but for this assistance, we must have come 
 on short allowance at once. 
 
 After putting up a barrel of pork, with a quantity 
 of bread, sugar, coffee, etc., which our host undertook 
 to send back immediately to the spring at the foot 
 of the mountain, for the party we had left behind, 
 we took leave of our good friends, and dashed off in 
 fine spirits for Thome's Wells, in the mountain, called 
 the " Cornudos del Alamo," or Horns of the Alamo, 
 thirty-three miles distant, which I hoped to reach 
 before dark. The road was most monotonous for the 
 first twenty miles ; the great abundance of yuccas and 
 cacti giving a strange and striking air to the vegeta- 
 tion. We saw splendid specimens of a large tree-like 
 cactus ( Opuntia arborescens). This is a much branched 
 species, with clusters of yellow fruit at the ends of its 
 long, horrible, spiny arms. Specimens were seen from 
 six to ten feet high, and twenty to thirty feet in circum- 
 ference. The country is slightly undulating, and not 
 a level plain, as it appeared to be from the hills. The 
 soil seemed barren, and in many places was covered 
 with saline incrustations. Several dog-towns were 
 passed. At noon, saw a great cloud of dust rising from 
 the plaiD immediately ahead of us ; which, as we drew 
 near, was found to proceed from ten large wagons of 
 ten mules each, belonging to Mr. Daguerre, on their 
 way from El Paso, to relieve the train we had just left. 
 At 6 o'clock, reached the Cornudos del Alamo, towards 
 which we had been journeying since our start this 
 
TO EL PASO. 129 
 
 morning ; and being unable at this late hour, it being 
 now dark, to find the wells in the clefts of the rocks, 
 we encamped without water. This wonderful moun- 
 tain, of which it is impossible to convey any adequate 
 idea by description, is a pile of red granite boulders 
 of gigantic size, thrown up abruptly into the plain. 
 The boulders are mostly of an oblong shape, with their 
 largest diameter vertical ; they are rounded and often 
 highly polished. The interstices between the rocks form 
 in many places extensive caverns. On the summit I 
 noticed two projecting piles, or masses, which rose 
 many feet above the level of the other portions in a 
 conical form, resembling horns, whence I suppose 
 originated the name " Horns of the Alamo" — the moun- 
 tain itself being known as the Alamo. After building 
 a fire near a rock (for wood was abundant around us), 
 four of the party took a lantern and scrambled about 
 among the rocks in search of water. It seemed a bold 
 and hopeless undertaking for tiny man, guided by the 
 dim light of a candle, to be probing the deep recesses 
 of the mountain, and clambering over these gigantic 
 boulders, which were piled up to the height of four or 
 five hundred feet. But, when urged by his necessities, 
 it is hard to say what he cannot accomplish. Within an 
 hour, one of the party was so fortunate as to find in a 
 cavity of a rock water enough to fill our tea-kettle, 
 which had collected from the melting of the snow a 
 few days before. After a cup of warm tea and a hearty 
 supper, the carriage was drawn near the fire, when all 
 bivouacked around it, and were soon lost in sleep. 
 
 November 12th. Being spared the trouble of boiling 
 coffee, for want of water to make it withal, we did not 
 
 VOL. I. 9 
 
130 DELAWARE CREEK 
 
 wait for breakfast, but set off before daylight. Before 
 quitting the mountain, we journeyed along it for some 
 distance, close to its base. We thus found a singular 
 gorge, or glen, which led some fifty feet into the 
 mountain, where it opened to the sky. Within this 
 inner cavern-like place was a deep hole, which appeared 
 to have contained water, and which we supposed to 
 be the " Thome's Well" of which we had been in 
 search ; but at this time, it was perfectly dry. Some 
 large trees had sprung up in this singular place, and 
 the rocky walls were highly polished, as if by the hand 
 of man. There were other deep holes near the 
 entrance, which we supposed had been dug by Cali- 
 fornia emigrants in search for water. All around were 
 indications that it had been a camping place for many 
 parties. Near the entrance alluded to, were several 
 carcasses of oxen, which had perished here before the 
 well was duff. 
 
 Resuming our journey we rode ten miles to the 
 Ojos del Alamo, or Cotton- wood Springs, on a hard and 
 excellent road. Our landmark for this spring was a 
 single cotton-wood tree, about five hundred feet up the 
 side of a mountain, on our left. As the mountain was 
 otherwise bare of foliage, save a few shrubs, the tree 
 was easily seen, though from below it looked more like 
 a bush ; still its light yellowish green distinguished it 
 perfectly from every thing around. Left the carriage at 
 the base of the mountain, and clambered up to the 
 springs, of which there are seven. The water was 
 very good, though but little remained. Upon the 
 faces of the rocks near were rude sculptures and paint- 
 ings, made by the Indians. We led some of the ani- 
 
TO EL PASO. 131 
 
 mals up to the springs ; and others, that would not 
 make the ascent, were watered from the kegs which 
 our friends had deposited at the base. Found a note 
 from Mr. Thurber here, stating that his party had pre- 
 ceded us two days. 
 
 Turned our animals out to graze, as the grass was 
 very good, and took breakfast. The Hueco, or Waco 
 Mountains, our next landmark, lay before us here at 
 twenty-five miles distance, and for them we now set 
 out ; but so clear was the atmosphere that they did not 
 appear more than eight or nine miles off. The road, 
 which led over a rolling prairie, was excellent. Not a 
 tree was seen, and scarcely a bush the entire distance. 
 The grass was poor and thin. At 2 o'clock reached 
 the mountain, and at once entered the pass. Just be- 
 fore reaching it, the road divides, one branch leading 
 to the right, the other to the left of the mountain. I 
 was advised to take the latter, which was five miles 
 shorter than the other, as my carriage could be easily 
 lifted over a very steep place in the defile, which was 
 impracticable for loaded wagons. The latter invaria- 
 bly take the longer route. The descent was gradual 
 and easy, and led through a narrow defile along the 
 base of the mountain, which lay close on our right. 
 The road was very tortuous, with small hills and deep 
 ravines to cross, though unattended with difficulties, 
 until, after a long descent, we were obliged to follow an 
 arroyo, or stony bed of a water-course. Here the way 
 was exceedingly rough, so that I feared every moment 
 to see the carriage upset or broken in pieces. We 
 were finally brought to a stand, where the road or path, 
 if entitled to either appellation, led precipitately over 
 
132 
 
 DELAWARE CREEK 
 
 a ledge of rocks some ten or twelve feet. How any 
 wheeled vehicle ever got through here it was difficult 
 to imagine. After an examination of the place, it was 
 thought most prudent to take out the mules, which were 
 led around the side of the defile, or through a chasm 
 in the rock. We then took two ropes, and attached 
 them to the hind axletree of the carriage. Wells, the 
 driver, a stout and athletic man, took the tongue and 
 guided the carriage over the precipice, while we let it 
 carefully down by the ropes. In this way it was got 
 
 Waco Mountain Pass. 
 
 over m safety, and deposited on the gravelly bed of 
 the defile. The mules were now hitched up again T 
 and we continued our journey along the same sort of 
 road for about a mile. This was an exceedingly grand 
 and picturesque spot, differing from any thing we had 
 seen on our route. On both sides the gray limestone 
 
TO EL PASO. 133 
 
 rocks rose perpendicular like walls. From the top 
 and in the crevices of these, grew a variety of shrubs. 
 A low range of rounded gravelly hills, covered with 
 grass, but destitute of trees, bordered the defile ; while 
 about half a mile or less beyond, loomed up the great 
 mountain, its almost perpendicular sides showing a 
 dark brown granite from the base to its very summit. 
 So steep is the mountain that it cannot be ascended 
 except from the plain above. As we emerged from 
 the narrow gorge, the same terraced and castellated 
 rocks which we noticed at Castle Mountain appeared 
 again, but in more strange and picturesque forms — now 
 a fortification, and again some ruined town. These 
 terraced hills opened into a plain or amphitheatre about 
 three miles across, surrounded by hills and mountains, ex- 
 cept on the north. Passing them, we reached the Hueco 
 Tanks, and stopped beneath a huge overhanging rock. 
 The mountains in which these so-called " Tanks " 
 are found, are two rocky piles of a similar character to 
 the Cornudos del Alamo before described. The rocks, 
 however, are thrown together in still wilder confusion, 
 and are of more irregular forms. One mass extends 
 about a mile along the amphitheatre above mentioned, 
 and is about half a mile in breadth. The other, situated 
 to the south, is separated by a narrow pass from that 
 described. It, too, extends about a mile from north to 
 south ; but in other respects is very irregular, consisting 
 of several vast heaps, quite disconnected. Much of 
 this is granite in place, while gigantic boulders are 
 piled up like pebble stones at its sides and on its sum-' 
 mit. These piles are from one hundred to one hundred 
 and fifty feet in height. 
 
134 DELAWARE CREEK 
 
 After a little search we found water in a great cav- 
 ity or natural tank in the rock about twenty feet above 
 our heads, containing about fifty barrels, pure and 
 sweet. This tank was covered by a huge boulder, 
 weighing some hundred tons, the lower surface of 
 which was but four or five feet above the water. 
 Searching along the base of the mountain we found 
 another cavity, where we watered our animals. There 
 remained yet another hour before dark ; and as there 
 was no grass near, I thought best to push on a few 
 miles and stop wherever grass should be found. 
 
 The road leads between the great rocky masses 
 described above, when it enters a plain beyond. We 
 had scarcely passed the mountain when we met Messrs. 
 Thurber and Weems, who were returning from El Paso, 
 with ten mules and two men for the assistance of our 
 train, which had been promptly furnished by' Major 
 Van Home. We bivouacked together, after learning 
 that we should find no grass further on. It was poor 
 here, and only grew in tufts about the roots of the 
 mezquit chapporal ; but with the hope of terminating 
 our journey on the morrow, we could rest easy. A 
 supper was cooked with the brushwood of the mezquit ; 
 and the evening was spent in asking a thousand ques- 
 tions of our friends about what they had seen, and how 
 civilized people again appeared to them. 
 
 November 13th. Breakfasted and resumed our 
 journey before daylight, having twenty-five miles to 
 make before its close. About three miles from the 
 Hueco Tanks we passed a range of hills, when a broad 
 plain opened upon us in every direction. Here we 
 first got a glimpse of Mexico, in a range of mountains 
 
TO EL PASO. 135 
 
 which rises ten miles in the rear of El Paso. North- 
 east of them were the El Paso Mountains, on the east- 
 ern bank of the river, which unite with the Organ 
 Mountains or " Sierra de los Organos," whose pinna- 
 cles and jagged summits could be distinctly seen about 
 sixty miles to the north-west. To the north, at a great 
 distance, Mount Soledad was dimly seen ; while at the 
 south the long line of horizon was only broken by low 
 hills, on the Mexican side of the river. A road branched 
 on just beyond the low hills we had passed, leading to 
 the town of Isleta, in a southerly direction. Our 
 course now lay south-west, over a sandy and desert' 
 plain, covered with low mezquit chapporal. Grama 
 grass grew in tufts or little patches here and there ; 
 which, though dry and apparently without sustenance, 
 is eagerly eaten by mules. The country was exceed- 
 ingly monotonous ; and our tired animals could scarcely 
 drag their loads through the deep sand, which con- 
 tinued the whole way without interruption. We kept 
 rising gradually over the undulating table land which 
 borders the Rio Grande, until at length we reached 
 its highest level. Here the valley of that long looked- 
 for river opened upon us. A line of foliage of the 
 richest green with occasional patches of bright yellow 
 and brown marked its course. The first autumnal 
 tinge, which in our northern forests so beautifully indi- 
 cates the earliest frost and reminds us of the coming 
 winter, is here likewise apparent. But there is not 
 that diversity of hue as with us, — no rich crimson, scarlet 
 and purple ; which is easily accounted for by the want 
 of variety in the Mexican forest. Here the cotton- wood 
 alone is found. Soon the houses were seen peeping 
 
136 DELAWARE CREEK 
 
 from among the trees; but when the "stars and 
 stripes " were discovered curling in the breeze, a thrill 
 ran through our veins which must be felt by those 
 situated as we were to be understood. I had often 
 read of the delight with which mariners, after a long 
 absence, greet the sight of their national flag in some 
 distant port ; and this delight I now experienced. It 
 seemed like a glimpse of home, and reminded us that 
 we were approaching not only civilization, but coun- 
 trymen and friends. We now descended from the 
 plateau to the valley of the Rio Grande, after which a 
 ride of half an hour brought us to the military post at 
 El Paso del Norte. Here we were kindly received by 
 the Commandant, Major Van Home, who assigned such 
 quarters for us all as the place afforded. 
 
 Our journey from San Antonio had taken us thirty- 
 three days, six of which we were detained on the 
 way, making twenty-seven travelling days in all. 1 
 make my estimates from our rate of travelling, and 
 from the distances on the map of Ford and Neighbors ; 
 but adopt the measurements made by Major Bryan 
 with a viameter. Some of his first camps differed from 
 mine, though our trails could not have been far apart 
 between Fredericksburg and the head of the Concho 
 River, where we both struck the Emigrant Road, which 
 we followed to the Rio Grande. 
 
 
 
 Miles. 
 
 rom San Antonio to Fredericksburg 
 
 . 69-67 
 
 c( 
 
 Banon Creek 
 
 8-22 
 
 a 
 
 Theudgill's Creek 
 
 . 15-14 
 
 u 
 
 Llano River 
 
 15-28 
 
 a 
 
 Comanche Creek 
 
 . 8-65 
 
 a 
 
 Head of Honey Creek . 
 
 9-54 
 
TO EL PASO. 
 
 137 
 
 From San Antonio to San Saba River 
 
 " Head of Camp Creek 
 
 South Branch of Brady's Creek 
 
 Brady's Creek 
 
 Head of Brady's Creek 
 
 Kickapoo Creek 
 
 Lipan Creek 
 
 Antelope Creek 
 
 South Concho . 
 
 Dove Creek . 
 
 Good Spring Creek . 
 
 Lipan Camp Creek 
 
 Green Mounds . 
 
 Concho River 
 
 Crossing of Concho . 
 
 Head Springs of Concho 
 
 Castle Mountain 
 
 River Pecos . 
 
 Falls of the Pecos 
 
 Delaware Creek .... 
 
 Independence Spring (three springs) 
 
 Spring at foot of Guadalupe Mountain 
 
 Spring Ojo del Cuerpo 
 
 Cornudos del Alamo 
 
 Ojos del Alamo 
 
 Waco Mountains .... 
 
 Waco Tanks .... 
 
 Rio Grande at El Paso (say) . 
 
 Miles. 
 11-11 
 
 4-85 
 
 14-27 
 
 15-18 
 
 7-50 
 
 13-73 
 
 11-60 
 
 11-20 
 
 4-12 
 
 9-02 
 
 3-43 
 
 5-35 
 
 5-70 
 
 7-02 
 
 11-66 
 
 18-03 
 
 55-28 
 
 13-00 
 
 32-29 
 
 94-78 
 
 40-03 
 
 5-54 
 
 28-21 
 
 28-15. 
 
 9-14 
 
 19-05 
 
 6-42- 
 
 28-00" 
 
 The distance by Major Bryan's table from San An- 
 tonio to Isleta on the Rio Grande is 638'02 miles. It 
 is called 28 miles from the Waco Tanks to El Paso, 
 which would make the distance from San Antonio to 
 that place 635 miles. The distance by the southern 
 route, followed by the main body of the Commission, is 
 673 miles. 
 
138 DELAWARE CREEK 
 
 A few general remarks on the country we have 
 passed over seem proper here. From Indianola to 
 San Antonio there is an excellent road, with wood, 
 water, and grass in abundance, except between India- 
 nola and Victoria, where there is but little wood. Par- 
 ties should therefore provide themselves with fuel 
 before starting. The soil here is admirably adapted 
 to agriculture. From San Antonio to Fredericksburg, 
 the road is very stony a portion of the way, the 
 remainder good. The soil is excellent. Wood, water, 
 and grass are always found at convenient distances, 
 and in abundance. The soil continues of a good 
 quality until the San Saba is reached ; from that river 
 to the north fork of Brady's Creek it is not so good. 
 The grass is generally light to the latter place, with 
 less wood and water, though enough for parties travel- 
 ling. We now begin to get on the great table-land 
 of Texas, where there is little rain and a poor soil. 
 Several small streams emptying into the Colorado or 
 the Concho here intersect the road, on the immediate 
 banks of which there are a few trees. But the inter- 
 mediate country is destitute of timber, save a very few 
 small oaks or mezquit. The grass too is poor, except 
 near the water courses. On leaving the head waters 
 of the Concho, nature assumes a new aspect. Here 
 trees and shrubs disappear, except the thorny chapporal 
 of the deserts; the water courses all cease, nor does 
 any stream intervene until the Rio Grande is reached, 
 350 miles distant, except the muddy Pecos, which, 
 rising in the Rocky Mountains near Santa Fe, crosses 
 the great desert plain west of the Llano Estacado, or 
 Staked Plain. From the Rio Grande to the waters of 
 
TO EL PASO. 139 
 
 the Pacific, pursuing a westerly course along the 32d 
 parallel, near El Paso del Norte, there is no stream of 
 a higher grade than a small creek. I know of none 
 but the San Pedro and the Santa Cruz, the latter but 
 a rivulet losing itself in the sands near the Gila, 
 the other but a diminutive stream scarcely reaching 
 that river. At the head waters of the Concho, 
 therefore, begins that great desert region, which, with 
 no interruption save a limited valley or bottom land 
 along the Rio Grande, and lesser ones near the small 
 courses mentioned, extends over a district embracing 
 sixteen degrees of longitude, or about a thousand 
 miles, and is wholly unfit for agriculture. It is a deso- 
 late barren waste, which can never be rendered useful 
 for man or beast, save for a public highway. It is 
 destitute of forests, except in the defiles and gorges of 
 the higher mountains or on their summits. Along the 
 valley of the Rio Grande, which is from one and a half 
 to two miles in width, there grow large cotton wood 
 trees and a few mezquit ; but between this river and 
 the north fork of Brady's Creek there is no timbered 
 land. 
 
 The country is well adapted for a wagon road, and 
 equally so for a railway, as all desert regions are, unless 
 they are sandy. From Fredericksburg, all the way to 
 the Rio Grande, there is a natural road, which as a 
 whole is better than half the roads in the United States 
 west of the Mississippi. Yery little has been done to 
 this road of nearly 600 miles to render it what it is ; 
 and a little labor where the streams are crossed, with a 
 bridge across the Pecos, which could be constructed 
 with great ease and at a small expense, would make the 
 
140 DELAWARE CREEK 
 
 whole of it equal to our best turnpikes. Here and 
 there I would recommend a slight change in its direc- 
 tion ; as for instance, near Kickapoo Creek, to avoid a 
 rocky ridge ; and some improvements might be made 
 near Fredericksburg : but these are trifles. The most 
 important consideration is water, without which this 
 route never can be made available as a great public 
 highway. There is little doubt that by digging, water 
 may be found on the desert between the head of the 
 Concho and the Pecos. At the depressions, called 
 Mustang Ponds and Wild China Ponds, where, it ap- 
 pears, water has sometimes been seen, wells might 
 easily be sunk and water be procured. Two watering 
 places in this Jornada of sixty-nine miles would be 
 quite sufficient. On the western side of the Guadalupe 
 Mountain there should be another watering place ; but 
 it is evident from the statements made by the party 
 which had been so long encamped at the Salt Pond, 
 that there exists several springs about the base of the 
 mountain. Next come the Cornudos del Alamo and 
 the Waco Mountains ; where there are springs, but 
 which, from their not being opened, soon dry up or 
 disappear. These, being at proper distances for daily 
 journeys, would be suitable places to sink wells, or, 
 which would be better, to open the springs already 
 known. 
 
 If it should be determined to make a great high- 
 way through Texas to El Paso, and thence to Califor- 
 nia, south of the Gila, neither of the present routes to 
 El Paso should be adopted until a more complete ex- 
 ploration has been made. I was told at El Paso, by 
 Mexicans who had traversed the district east of that 
 
TO EL PASO. 141 
 
 town, that water could be found in the mountains that 
 separate El Paso from the Pecos, between the routes 
 now taken. Should such be the case, and no impedi- 
 ment exist, at least fifty miles of travel might be 
 saved; and if water is not now found, it may as 
 easily be obtained, by sinking wells, as on the northern 
 route. The whole country, after the table-land north 
 of San Antonio is reached, is well adapted to a wagon 
 road or a railway ; and I doubt whether any district 
 of the same extent east of the Mississippi would require 
 fewer embankments and excavations than across the 
 table-land of Texas. 
 
SECOND DIVISION. 
 
 EL PASO TO THE COPPEE MINES. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 EVENTS AT EL PASO. 
 
 Losses of Animals — High price of provisions at El Paso — Excursion up the 
 river — Entertainment given to the officers of the Commission by the 
 civil authorities — The Bishop of Durango — Pueblo Indians — Meeting 
 with General Conde, and commencement of the labors of the Joint Com- 
 mission — Arrival and disposition of the main body of the United States 
 Commission — Arrival of ox-train, and death of U. D. Wakeman — 
 Departure of military escort for the Copper Mines — American despo- 
 radoes in New Mexico — Death of E. C. Clarke — Trial and execution 
 of Wade, Craig, and Butler — Trial and execution of Young — Dinner and 
 ball given under difficulties— Excursion to the Sierra Waco — Indian 
 pictures at the Waco Tanks — Initial point agreed upon, and survey in 
 its vicinity commenced — Dep6t established at the Copper Mines — Dr. 
 Webb's report on the same. 
 
 On reaching El Paso, I feared that the ten mules 
 sent out by Major Van Home to my assistance would 
 be insufficient, as so many of our animals had suddenly 
 given out when I left the train. On making my fears 
 known to Mr. Magoffin, an American merchant here, he 
 generously ordered four of his own men to take ten of 
 his best mules and set off immediately to aid the train 
 in getting in ; and, in consequence, it arrived in safety 
 five days after. 
 
144 
 
 EVENTS AT 
 
 I have not mentioned the loss of animals, save 
 on two or three occasions, although several other 
 instances of this misfortune occurred to us. The fine 
 horse which was bitten by a rattlesnake died a few 
 days after. On the last day, two horses which had 
 been led for several days lay down, and refused to go 
 further. They were left within ten miles of our 
 journey's end. I sent a man back immediately on my 
 arrival with corn and water ; but he was too late, both 
 were already dead. But though the losses of this kind 
 were few on the march, they were great after we got 
 in. There were no sheds or barns in which the animals 
 could be placed to protect them from the cold winds 
 which prevailed at this season of the year ; and the 
 grass was very poor. I procured corn for them at 
 once, and sent them to a grove a few miles above the 
 town, where they would be better protected than if 
 running at large over the open plain. But about a 
 week after my arrival a severe norther came on, 
 bringing with it the cold blasts from the snowy moun- 
 tains, which had such an effect upon the poor crea- 
 tures, that twelve or fourteen mules and horses perished. 
 
 Provisions of all kinds were exceedingly high at 
 this time : flour, thirty-two dollars a barrel ; pork, 
 sugar, and coffee, fifty cents a pound ; and other articles 
 in proportion. Corn too, was selling at eight dollars 
 a fanega of two and five-eighths bushels. The arrival 
 of my party rather tended to increase prices ; for the 
 population was so limited, that the addition of forty 
 men and sixty animals, with a knowledge that a large 
 train with the main body of the Commission and its 
 escort would soon arrive, led the owners of such pro- 
 
EL PASO. 145 
 
 perty to keep up the rates. The Government, how- 
 ever, had given me authority, in cases of necessity, to 
 call upon the United States Commissaries of Subsist- 
 ence for provisions ; and hence the immediate wants 
 of my party were provided for by the officers of this 
 post. Corn and fodder for the animals, however, had 
 to be purchased at the market prices. 
 
 General Garcia Conde, the Mexican Commissioner, 
 had not yet reached El Paso, though intelligence had 
 been received here that he was at the city of Chihua- 
 hua ; word was therefore sent to him at once, that the 
 United States Commission had arrived. 
 
 In order to make myself familiar with the country 
 in the vicinity of El Paso before the Commission 
 should enter upon its duties, I made an excursion, in 
 which I was accompanied by Major Yan Home and 
 several gentlemen of my party, over the mountain 
 ridge which crosses the Rio Grande a few miles above 
 the town. We passed up on the Mexican side of the 
 river, crossing over to the American side at White's 
 Ranch, a course which we followed in returning. About 
 a mile above the town is a fall in the river, where a 
 dam has been constructed, and the water raised about 
 ten feet, for the purpose of irrigating the valley 
 below. There are two grist mills here, one on the 
 Mexican, the other on the American side of the river.. 
 For the distance of eight miles, as it is called, above 
 El Paso, there is no bottom land, the river breaking 
 its way through the mountains the whole distance. 
 The range on the eastern side, called the El Paso 
 Mountains, rises to a height of about one thousand five 
 hundred feet. It is a continuation of the Sierra de los 
 
 VOL. I. — 10 
 
146 EVENTS AT 
 
 Organos, or Organ Mountains, and approaches within 
 two miles of the river, where it drops off into spurs 
 of about two hundred feet in height. These hills or 
 spurs cross the Rio Grande, and unite with another 
 range eight or ten miles to the west. It is through 
 these spurs or lesser range of limestone hills that the 
 river has forced its way. 
 
 November 9 th. In company with the officers of 
 the Boundary Commission, I attended to-day a public 
 dinner given to us by the civil authorities of El Paso. 
 The officers of the United States army, stationed oppo- 
 site the town, were among the guests, as well as the 
 principal citizens of the place. The dinner was served 
 up in true Mexican style, with a great variety of 
 dishes; and, with the exception of vegetables, of 
 which there is a great deficiency in the country, the 
 entertainment would have been creditable even in our 
 Atlantic cities. The wine drank on the occasion was 
 Champagne, claret, and vino del pais, or wine of the 
 country. The latter was an excellent article, the best 
 I ever found at El Paso. When the cloth was removed, 
 toasts were drunk, and some songs sung. The best 
 feeling existed throughout the evening, and the affair 
 terminated to the satisfaction of all present. 
 
 November 23d Accompanied by Major Van Home 
 and several gentlemen of the Commission, I went to 
 pay my respects to the Bishop of Durango, then on 
 his return from a visit to New Mexico. He was a 
 venerable man of about seventy years, with a counte- 
 nance exhibiting great benevolence and intelligence. 
 I found him affable and courteous in his manner, fond 
 of conversation, and manifesting a deep interest in the 
 
EL PASO. 147 
 
 welfare of his people in New Mexico and the northern 
 states of Old Mexico, all of which are comprised in 
 his diocese. From the city of Durango, where he 
 resides, he had been about fifteen hundred miles, 
 to the north, visiting his churches in the most extreme 
 points of New Mexico. He was accompanied by Dr. 
 Rubio, his secretary. In his journey north of El Paso, 
 when he entered the territories of the United States, 
 the Bishop received every attention from the civil 
 and military authorities, and was furnished with 
 escorts by the latter through such portions of the 
 country as could not be traversed in safety without. 
 His gratitude for this kindness was warmly expressed. 
 He made particular inquiries about the United States 
 Boundary Commission, the duties intrusted to it, the 
 character of the country it would have to explore, the 
 Indian tribes, etc., etc. 
 
 The next day we rode over to El Paso, to attend 
 mass, and hear a discourse from the Bishop. His con- 
 gregation was large and attentive. Crowds of well 
 dressed persons were assembled around the exterior 
 of the church, unable to gain admission. This was a 
 fine occasion to see the people, as there was a general 
 turn out. The women all wore dark rebosos, or scarfs, 
 around their heads and shoulders, and in general were 
 gaily dressed. The more genteel appeared in black. 
 Much attention is paid to costume, and the senoritas 
 fully appreciate the effect of particular colors on the 
 complexion ; hence, one seldom sees in Mexico those 
 delicate lilacs, pinks, and sky-blues which are so much 
 worn by, and are so becoming to, the fair Anglo-Sax- 
 on. Bright colors are mostly worn, which set off the 
 
148 EVENTS AT 
 
 Mexican brunettes to great advantage. After church 
 we were invited by Don Guadalupe Miranda to par- 
 take of refreshments at his house. Grapes, apples, 
 and pears were served up, together with El Paso wine. 
 The grapes were as fresh and plump as when gathered. 
 In the afternoon, the Bishop, Dr. Rubio, and Padre 
 Ortiz, accompanied by several of their friends, called 
 on me. I served up a collation of such things as nry 
 commissariat could furnish ; though the carte was 
 rather limited, as the train which contained our pro- 
 visions had not yet arrived. 
 
 November 25th. Crossed the river on horseback to 
 make some purchases in the town ; and while there, 
 met a party of Pueblo Indians, who were just entering. 
 The men were chiefly dressed after the manner of the 
 lower class of Mexicans. They wore short jackets, 
 decorated with innumerable bell-buttons, and dark 
 pantaloons with similar buttons, open at the outside 
 from the hip to the ankle, with large white trowsers 
 beneath. The women all wore short black dresses, 
 reaching just below the knees, with a thin white muslin 
 mantle thrown over their shoulders. A bright red 
 silk shawl was tied around their waists, and they had 
 bunches or bows of gay ribbons in their hair. All 
 their faces were painted alike, with a spot of vermilion 
 on each cheek, surrounded by a border of small white 
 dots. The women held in each hand a large turkey 
 feather, which they moved up and down, keeping time 
 with their music. The men carried flint muskets, and 
 one of them a drum, on which he was beating con- 
 stantly. All joined in singing a monotonous tune, and, 
 when they reached the church, stopped and commenced 
 
EL PASO. 149 
 
 dancing. They formed lines similar to those made 
 for a contra dance by us, passing through a variety of 
 figures and marchings. From the perfect regularity 
 with which they went through these figures, they must 
 have followed some established forms. The Indians 
 belong to the old Piro tribe, and dwell in the same 
 village of Sinecu which their ancestors occupied two 
 centuries ago. They are now dwindled to about 
 eighty souls ; and but few of these are pure stock. 
 Their language is retained by them, though less used 
 than the Spanish. Another generation will probably 
 extinguish the language ; though the mixed race may 
 long occupy their present ground, and retain the 
 manners and customs of their forefathers. 
 
 November 28tJi. About 8 o'clock in the evening, 
 Captain Barry and Mr. C. J. Sheldon arrived from our 
 large train, which they left about two hundred miles 
 behind, having been sent in advance to procure mules 
 and forage. They had, like ourselves, experienced 
 very severe weather ; and their animals were so much 
 reduced, that it had been feared they could not reach 
 the settlements. They also informed me that the wag- 
 ons and carts drawn by oxen, being unable to keep up 
 with the mule train, had been left behind some weeks 
 earlier, with all the provisions not necessary to bring 
 the party with the mule train in. I regretted exceed- 
 ingly to hear this news, as the military escort under 
 Colonel Craig was with Colonel McClellan and the mule 
 train, while the ox train, containing much valuable 
 property in addition to the provisions, was in charge 
 of only a wagon-master and a few men. Word was 
 sent me by the Commissary that it would be necessary 
 
150 EVENTS AT 
 
 to procure at once some provisions, to be ready on the 
 arrival of the mule train ; as the officer in command had 
 not taken enough to bring them through, and he had 
 been compelled to call upon Colonel Craig for a sup- 
 ply already. By the gentleman alluded to, I received 
 a mail with important dispatches from the government, 
 apprising me that Colonel McClellan, the chief astro- 
 nomer of the Commission, was removed, and that Colo- 
 nel J. D. Graham would be appointed to fill his place. 
 
 I made arrangements at once, with the United 
 States Commissary of Subsistence at El Paso, to furnish 
 provisions for the expected party, which were placed 
 at San Eleazario, a town about twenty-five miles below, 
 where quarters could be procured for them during 
 the cold weather, or until they entered the field for 
 active duty. The flour being of a very fair quality 
 made at El Paso, I contracted for a supply, at ten and 
 a half cents a pound, about twenty dollars a barrel. 
 For corn, the Quarter-master was compelled to pay 
 six dollars and a half a fanega, or about two dollars and 
 a half a bushel. 
 
 December 1st. General Pedro Garcia Conde, with 
 the other officers of the Mexican Commission, reached 
 El Paso to-day. 
 
 December 2d. Received a note this morning from 
 General Conde, announcing his presence, and his readi- 
 ness to carry out the agreement entered into by the 
 Joint Commission in California, on the 15th February 
 last. I replied immediately, congratulating him on 
 his safe arrival, and stated that I would do myself the 
 honor of calling upon him at 12 o'clock. 
 
 At the appointed time I crossed the river, accom- 
 
EL PASO. 151 
 
 parried by Major Van Home, Lieutenant Wilkins, Dr. 
 Webb, Secretary of the Commission, and Mr. J. C. 
 Cremony, Interpreter. We met General Conde, with 
 his officers and engineers; also Colonel Langberg, a 
 Swedish officer in the Mexican army, who was then in 
 command of a body of troops just arrived from Chi- 
 huahua, for the protection of the frontier against the 
 Indians. The interview was an agreeable one, the 
 engineers connected with the Mexican Commission 
 being gentlemen of education, and graduates of the 
 Military School at Chepultepec. The Interpreter was 
 Don Felipe de Iturbide, the younger son of the 
 late Emperor. 
 
 I expressed a desire to General Conde to proceed 
 to business as soon as possible, as we had a large 
 number of engineers and other scientific men in our 
 party, who were anxious to enter their field of labor. 
 The General acquiesced in my wishes, and said he 
 would meet me to-morrow at my quarters. 
 
 December 3d. General Conde, with his son Don 
 Augustin Conde, who acts as his Secretary, and Don 
 Felipe de Iturbide, called by appointment at 10 o'clock, 
 A. m., when the first meeting of the Joint Commission to 
 run and mark the boundary between the United States 
 and the Republic of Mexico, under the treaty of Guada- 
 lupe Hidalgo, took place. Two hours and a half were 
 spent at this first session, when we adjourned to meet at 
 the quarters of General Conde the following day. 
 
 The meetings of the Joint Commission were held 
 twice a week after this, though there were interruptions 
 at times from the ice in the river, which prevented 
 parties from crossing. Great difficulties were pre- 
 
152 EVENTS AT 
 
 sented, in consequence of errors in the map to which 
 the Commissioners were strictly confined; so that I 
 feared we should not be able to agree upon the 
 southern boundary of New Mexico. This is a line 
 connecting the Rio del Norte with the Gila. Accord- 
 ing to the treaty map (which is Disturnell's Map of 
 Mexico, of 1847), the point where the Rio Grande or 
 Del Norte, strikes the southern boundary of New 
 Mexico, is in latitude 32° 22' north. Thence it runs 
 westward three degrees to 107° 40' longitude west 
 from Greenwich. 
 
 On the 9th of December, the main body of the 
 Commission, which I left at San Antonio, reached San 
 Eleazario, and went into quarters at that place and at 
 Socorro, a town six miles north of it. It was impossible 
 to find quarters for all at either place. My official duties 
 required me at El Paso, where about a dozen officers 
 and laborers were quartered. Quarter-master Myer, 
 with the mules, wagons, etc., and Mr. George F. 
 Bartlett, Commissary, with the subsistence stores, were 
 established at Socorro, while Lieutenant A. W. Whipple, 
 who (by order of the Secretary of the Interior) had 
 been appointed Chief Astronomer, ad interim, had set 
 up his Astronomical Observatory at San Eleazario. 
 The officers, mechanics, laborers, etc., were divided 
 between the two places where their services were most 
 required. 
 
 January 8th. There was quite an excitement 
 to-day, in consequence of a theft by the Indians of 
 forty mules belonging to Mr. Magoffin, while they 
 were grazing in charge of four men on the plateau, 
 three miles from my quarters (then at Mr. Magoffin's 
 
EL PASO. 153 
 
 house), and about the same distance from the military 
 post. A party of the Commission immediately volun- 
 teered to go in pursuit. The best horses to be had 
 were procured as soon as possible ; and each man, 
 taking a rifle, a six-shooter, and a blanket, was in the 
 saddle within two hours after the news of the robbery 
 reached us. They soon fell on the robbers' trail, which 
 they followed for some distance towards the Waco 
 Mountain, when it turned north-west. They continued 
 on until the trail struck the Santa Fe road, when they 
 gave up the pursuit and returned the next day. 
 
 January 9th. The ox train left behind by Colonel 
 McClellan arrived at San Eleazario to-day, having 
 suffered severe hardships on the route. It left San 
 Antonio, as I have before stated, with the main body 
 of the Commission, on the 14th of October, and had 
 therefore been nearly three months on the way. On 
 the 8th of December a sad event took place, which 
 resulted in the death of Mr. U. B. Wakeman, the 
 wagon-master in charge of the train. The circum- 
 stances as related to me are as follows : With the train 
 there was a Captain Dobbins, formerly of the United 
 States Army, who had been cashiered for some mis- 
 conduct. This individual, being a personal friend of 
 Colonel McClellan, induced the latter to give him 
 employment as a kind of guide and hunter for his party ; 
 to which arrangement, being unacquainted with the 
 man's history and character, I consented. On leaving 
 the ox train behind, the Colonel directed Dobbins to 
 remain with it. On the day alluded to, Mr. Wakeman 
 was occupied in hunting up the oxen, and did not 
 return till late at night, when he found some parties 
 
154 EVENTS AT 
 
 gambling. He ordered it to be stopped, and Dobbins 
 refused to obey. High words arose, when Dobbins 
 rashed from his tent and discharged his revolver twice 
 at Mr. Wakeman, both balls taking effect. He died of 
 his wounds ten days after. 
 
 On the arrival of the train, Captain Dobbins surren- 
 dered himself to the authorities, underwent an exami- 
 nation, and was acquitted on the testimony of some of 
 the teamsters, who alleged that he had acted in self- 
 defence.* 
 
 January Y%th. Rode to Bona Ana, a small town 
 on the eastern branch of the Rio Grande, where we 
 have a military post, under the command of Major 
 Shepard. The distance, which is 56 miles, was made 
 between 9 o'clock, a. m., and 6 o'clock, p. m., in my 
 carriage, drawn by four mules. The only intermediate 
 town is Las Cruces, eight miles from Dona Ana. 
 
 As Colonel Craig was here with the escort of the 
 Commission, which he was about to march to the 
 Copper Mines on account of the advantages which he 
 believed that region offered as a camping-place, I 
 requested Dr. Webb, Mr. George Thurber, and Mr. 
 Cremony to avail themselves of the protection of the 
 escort, and examine that district of country, and the 
 old town there, as to their capabilities with reference 
 to water, wood, grass, buildings, etc. I transferred 
 my carriage to them, understanding that a good road 
 
 * I derive my information from documents sent to me, which are 
 printed in Senate Document No. 119, 32d Congress, 1st session, 
 pages 496, 497, and 498. The particulars of the examination which 
 took place at San Eleazario, were never furnished me, and I only know 
 from hearsay the' grounds on which Captain Dobbins was acquitted. 
 
EL PASO. 155 
 
 would be found most of the way. In addition to these, 
 a train of twenty large wagons, belonging to S. Hart, 
 Esq., loaded with corn and provisions for the escort, was 
 going at the same time, and would open a road wher- 
 ever it was necessary. On the 16th, I set out on my 
 return to El Paso, and arrived there the following day. 
 
 During my absence, the Indians made another 
 descent upon the inclosure near Mr. Magoffin's house 
 in which he kept his mules, and stole thirty. Several 
 men were sleeping in the wagons within the corral at 
 the same time ; yet so quietly was the robbery com- 
 mitted, that the loss was not discovered till morning. 
 
 When the Boundary Commission landed on the 
 shores of Texas in August, 1850, it was necessary to 
 employ about fifty teamsters, and many laborers, cooks, 
 etc. ; and the Quarter-master, whose duty it was to 
 engage the former, was obliged to take such as offered 
 themselves, giving the preference, of course, to such as 
 could produce testimonials of good character. He 
 found many who had been in the government employ, 
 who had good testimonials ; but there were others who 
 possessed no such credentials. Hence several men 
 who afterwards turned out to be worthless characters 
 obtained menial places in the Commission. On the 
 arrival of the several parties at El Paso and San Elea- 
 zario, it was necessary to discharge a large number, 
 chiefly of the teamsters ; and such as were found to be 
 of bad habits or vicious disposition were paid off and 
 discharged. There were also many very good men, 
 who, having families at San Antonio, engaged only for 
 the trip, and who, on being paid off, returned imme- 
 diately to that place. 
 
156 EVENTS AT 
 
 Other trains which had preceded us, and some that 
 arrived about the same time that we did from New 
 Mexico, including emigrant trains bound for California, 
 were disbanded here, leaving numbers of the outcasts 
 of society referred to, with little means of support. 
 But means or money were not of much consequence to 
 these people : for their habits of gambling were such, 
 that those who had money soon got rid of it. 
 
 The discharging of so many worthless and vagabond 
 men at Socorro, where the trains usually made it their 
 rendezvous, threw upon the peaceful inhabitants of that 
 place a set of ruffians, who, by daily increase of 
 numbers, had become so formidable, that the life of no 
 one was considered safe beyond the walls of his own 
 house. And even within them, there was no security ; 
 for several of these men had actually forced themselves 
 upon the occupants, and compelled them to give them 
 a home. Unused to such interlopers, and unable to ' 
 obtain redress, several Mexican families abandoned 
 their dwellings, and sought refuge on the opposite side 
 of the river, or removed to other settlements. 
 
 The first check given to this band of gamblers, 
 horse thieves, and murderers, was the arrival of the 
 United States Boundary Commission at Socorro. The 
 presence of a body of well armed, well disposed, and 
 spirited young men, tended to make these ruffians more 
 circumspect for a time ; but as the former were grad- 
 ually drafted off, to enter upon the duties connected 
 with the Survey, the latter became more overbearing 
 and insolent in their conduct. Houses were opened for 
 the indulgence of every wicked passion ; and each mid- 
 night hour heralded new violent and often bloody scenes 
 
EL PASO. 157 
 
 for the fast filling record of crime. The peaceable 
 Mexicans hastened to pack their little store of worldly 
 wealth, and, with their wives and children, fled from 
 the rapidly depopulating village. Every new outrage 
 escaping the notice of those in authority gave addi- 
 tional boldness to the desperate gang surrounding us. 
 None dared stir from home without being doubly 
 armed, and prepared to use their weapons at a 
 moment's warning ; for the turning of a corner might 
 bring one to the muzzles of a dozen pistols. 
 
 After several murders had been committed, and 
 horror and dismay filled the breasts of the orderly 
 part of the community, it was resolved to ask for 
 assistance from the military post at San Eleazario, 
 six miles distant. A note was written by the Quarter- 
 master and the engineers, giving a history of what 
 had occurred, and representing the alarming condition 
 of things at the time. The messenger returned with 
 an answer from the commanding officer, declining to 
 furnish any assistance, on the ground that the applica- 
 tion should first be made to the civil authorities.* 
 
 In the evening, a dancing party was given in the 
 place, an almost nightly amusement in all Mexican and 
 
 * I am indebted to a gentleman of high standing connected 
 with the Commission for the particulars of the death of Mr. Clarke, 
 and the trial and execution of his murderers. He was stationed at 
 Socorro when the events transpired, and was often brought in contact 
 with the principal actors in them. He attended the trial of all, and 
 took down the confession of Young, the man last executed. From 
 others equally conspicuous, and who were also residents there at the 
 time, I bave received similar accounts. I do not think, therefore, there 
 is any exaggeration in the narrative, but believe that what is stated is 
 strictly true. 
 
158 EVENTS AT 
 
 frontier towns, which, as usual, was attended by quite 
 a mixed company. As these dancing parties, called 
 " fandangos," are open to all, the vagabonds prowling 
 about at the time were numerously represented on the 
 occasion referred to, and made themselves conspicu- 
 ous by their conduct. Pistols were fired over the 
 heads of the females, who, in their alarm, attempted to 
 escape from the room ; but this was prevented by 
 ruffians stationed at the door. By this time there was 
 a great excitement within, and several desperadoes 
 commenced using their bowie-knives. Mr. Edward C. 
 Clarke, the Assistant Quarter-master of the Commission, 
 who was present on the occasion, was the first person 
 upon whom the ruffians attempted to satiate their 
 thirst for blood. Four attacked him with their knives, 
 and he fell near the door dreadfully wounded. He 
 was immediately taken to the quarters of Dr. Bigelow, 
 the surgeon of the Commission, who, on examination, 
 found he had received nine or ten deep wounds, 
 inflicted with bowie-knives, in his breast and abdo- 
 men. Another man named Gates was also wounded 
 by a pistol-shot in the leg. Dr. Bigelow at once pro- 
 nounced the wounds of Mr. Clarke mortal, and he 
 died the following morning. 
 
 When the startling announcement was made, that 
 an officer of the Commission had been foully murdered 
 by the wretches whose lawlessness had before gone 
 too long unchecked, the question arose, what was to 
 be done? Aid from the military had been refused. 
 The alcalde of the village, a weak and sickly imbecile, 
 had transferred his authority to another even more 
 timid and less reliable than himself; yet this person 
 
EL PASO. 159 
 
 was invested with the powers of a justice of the peace, 
 by authority of a commission from the State of Texas, 
 and constituted the entire civil authority at Socorro. 
 
 In this alarming condition of affairs, the members 
 of the Boundary Commission present were compelled 
 to move in the matter, and resolve upon some plan to 
 protect not only their own lives and property, but 
 also those of the trembling and dismayed population 
 about them. Messengers were immediately sent to 
 San Eleazario, for assistance from the main body of the 
 Commission, there engaged in various duties. The 
 call was promptly responded to ; and in about three 
 hours a party of Mexicans and Americans were col- 
 lected together. They hastily armed themselves, and, 
 joined by members of the Commission, proceeded at 
 once to Socorro, where many of the citizens were 
 already assembled awaiting them. The force was now 
 divided into several parties, and a systematic search 
 at once commenced to ferret out the murderers. 
 Every house was examined, and eight or nine persons 
 arrested ; but a man named Young, who had been 
 most conspicuous in the affray, was not to be found, 
 having, it was said, escaped from the village in the 
 morning. The prisoners were immediately conducted 
 by an armed guard to the house of Justice Berthold, 
 where a court was instituted to suit the emergencies 
 of the case. Juries were summoned and sworn, a pro- 
 secuting attorney named, and counsel for the defence 
 offered to the prisoners, which they declined, treating 
 the offer as a jest, and making vulgar and obscene 
 remarks upon their position. Nevertheless, an indivi- 
 dual tendered his services for the defence, and occa- 
 
160 EVENTS AT 
 
 sionally cross-questioned the witnesses. The prisoners 
 were evidently under the impression that nothing 
 would be done, believing that, by the mutual under- 
 standing between them, they could easily swear them- 
 selves out of the difficulty. The examinations were 
 conducted with propriety, and the prisoners made to 
 keep silence by the resolute demeanor of the citizens 
 present. 
 
 In selecting the jury, six were taken from the 
 Mexican citizens of Socorro, and six from the Boun- 
 dary Commission, as there were no other Americans 
 in the place. The presiding magistrate, Justice, Ber- 
 thold, was a highly respectable citizen, long resident 
 there, of French origin. 
 
 It is doubtful whether in the whole history of trial 
 by jury a more remarkable scene than the one here 
 presented was ever exhibited. The trial took place 
 in one of the adobe or mud-built houses peculiar to the 
 country, which was dimly lighted from a single small 
 window. Scarcely an individual was present who had 
 not the appearance and garb of men who spend their 
 lives on the frontier, far from civilization and its soften- 
 ing influences. Surrounded as we had been, and now 
 were, by hostile Indians, and constantly mingling with 
 half civilized and renegade men, it was necessary to go 
 constantly armed. No one ventured half a mile from 
 home without first putting on his pistols ; and many 
 carried them constantly about them, even when within 
 their own domicils. But, on the present occasion, cir- 
 cumstances rendered it necessary for safety, as well as 
 for the purpose of warning the desperate gang who 
 were now about to have their deserts, that all should 
 
EL PASO. 161 
 
 be doubly armed. In the court room, therefore, where 
 one of the most solemn scenes of human experience 
 was enacting, all were armed save the prisoners. 
 There sat the judge, with a pistol lying on the table 
 before him ; the clerks and attorneys wore revolvers 
 at their sides; and the jurors were either armed with 
 similar weapons, or carried with them the unerring 
 rifle. The members of the Commission and citizens, 
 who were either guarding the prisoners or protecting 
 the court, carried by their sides a revolver, a rifle, or 
 a fowling-piece, thus presenting a scene more charac- 
 teristic of feudal times than of the nineteenth century. 
 The fair but sunburnt complexion of the American 
 portion of the jury, with their weapons resting against 
 their shoulders, and pipes in their mouths, presented 
 a striking contrast to the swarthy features of the 
 Mexicans, muffled in checkered serapes, holding their 
 broad-brimmed glazed hats in their hands, and delicate 
 cigarritos in their lips. The reckless, unconcerned 
 appearance of the prisoners, whose unshaven faces and 
 dishevelled hair gave them the appearance of Italian 
 bandits rather than of Americans or Englishmen; 
 the grave and determined bearing of the bench ; the 
 varied costume and expression of the spectators and 
 members of the Commission, clad in serapes, blankets, 
 or overcoats, with their different weapons, and gene- 
 rally with long beards, made altogether one of the most 
 remarkable groups which ever graced a court room. 
 
 Two days were occupied in the examination and 
 trial : for one immediately followed the other. In the 
 mean time, a military guard of ten men had been 
 promptly sent to our aid by Major Van Home, the 
 
 VOL. I. 1 1 
 
162 EVENTS AT 
 
 commanding officer at El Paso, on my requisition : so 
 that the open threats which had been made by the 
 friends of the prisoners during the first day of the trial, 
 were no longer heard ; for they now saw that the 
 strong arm of the law would triumph. 
 
 The second day, a member of the Commission who 
 manifested a deep interest in the prisoners, was re- 
 quested by one of them to act as his counsel ; but his 
 efforts to prove an alibi, to impeach the testimony of 
 some of the witnesses, and to establish the previous good 
 character of the defendant, proved utterly futile. The 
 prisoners were then heard in their own defence ; but 
 they could advance nothing beyond the mere assertion 
 of their innocence. At the close of the testimony, an 
 attempt was made by one of the friends of the prison- 
 ers to postpone the trial, for the purpose, as he stated, 
 of obtaining counsel and evidence from El Paso. But 
 the court had been apprised of the existence of a plot 
 for attempting a rescue that night, and accordingly 
 the request was refused. 
 
 The evidence being closed, a few remarks were 
 now made by the prosecuting attorney, followed by 
 the charge of the Judge, when the case was given to 
 the Jury. In a short time they returned into court 
 with a verdict of guilty, against William Craig, Marcus 
 Butler, and John Wade; upon whom the Judge then 
 pronounced sentence of death. 
 
 The prisoners were now escorted to the little plaza 
 or open square in front of the village church ; where 
 the priest met them, to give such consolation as his 
 holy office would afford. But their conduct, notwith- 
 standing the desire on the part of all to afford them 
 
EL PASO. 163 
 
 every comfort their position was susceptible of, con- 
 tinued reckless and indifferent, even to the last moment. 
 Butler alone was affected. He wept bitterly, and 
 excited much sympathy by his youthful appearance, 
 being but 21 years of age. His companions begged 
 him " not to cry, as he could die but once ! " 
 
 The sun was setting when they arrived at the place 
 of execution. The assembled spectators formed a 
 guard around a small alamo, or poplar tree, which had 
 been selected for the gallows. It was fast growing 
 dark, and the busy movements of a large number of 
 the associates of the condemned, dividing and collect- 
 ing again in small bodies at different points around 
 and outside of the party, and then approaching nearer 
 to the centre, proved that an attack was meditated, if 
 the slightest opportunity should be given. But the 
 sentence of the law was carried into effect. 
 
 The entire proceedings were intensely interesting, 
 and the scene of a character which none present desired 
 ever again to witness. The calm but determined 
 citizens on the one side, and the daring companions 
 of the condemned wretches on the other, remained 
 throughout keenly on the watch: the first for the 
 protection of life, and the support of good order in the 
 community, the other with the malicious eyes of dis- 
 appointed and infuriated demons, who, to rescue their 
 companions, would have been willing to sacrifice a 
 hundred additional lives. * 
 
 All three of the criminals had been connected with 
 the Boundary Commission. Wade was an Englishman, 
 and had driven one of the teams in my small party. 
 He was found to be a desperate villain, and I took the 
 
164 EVENTS AT 
 
 first opportunity to discharge him on my arrival at El 
 Paso. Craig was a cook in the main body of the Com- 
 mission, and a Scotchman by birth. Butler was an 
 American. He joined the train under Col. McClellan, 
 after it had left San Antonio, in some menial capacity, 
 and was discharged on arriving at Socorro. He was 
 accused of having murdered a Mexican near Eagle 
 Pass, and was fleeing when he met the train of the 
 Commission. 
 
 Socorro now resumed its previous quiet and good 
 order ; for the authorities had directed all persons who 
 were unconnected with the Commission, and were 
 without any employment, to leave the place within 
 twenty -four hours. This, however, was hardly neces- 
 sary : for the guilty and vagabond throng had already 
 begun to depart, and before the close of another day 
 all had left. But there was one other, and he the 
 principal actor in all the scenes I have related, who 
 was yet to be apprehended and made to pay the 
 penalty of his great crimes, before the demands of 
 justice were answered. 
 
 Four hundred dollars were subscribed by the 
 members of the Commission, and offered as a reward 
 for the apprehension of Alexander Young, the ring- 
 leader of the gang of desperadoes, and his delivery at 
 Socorro. Volunteer parties set out in all directions, 
 tempted by the prospect of gaining the large sum 
 offered, and at length word was brought that he had 
 been arrested at Guadalupe. Thus another unpleasant 
 duty immediately presented itself; but it was impossible 
 to avoid it. 
 
 The prisoner arrived in the evening, and was placed 
 
EL PASO. 165 
 
 in confinement, well chained and guarded. During 
 the night, he was visited in jail. It was observed that 
 the careless, dogged look had left his eye, and was 
 replaced by a supplicating glance that told plainly of 
 a change within. He was anxious to know if either of 
 the three who had been executed had made a confes- 
 sion, and said he had given up all hopes of life. Being 
 asked if he wished to write to any one, he answered 
 that he would like to have a letter written to his 
 mother, who had not heard from him for six years past. 
 The letter was written, and the prisoner appeared much 
 affected. He confessed the truth of the charges against 
 him, criminating clearly, and to a still greater extent, 
 the three who were hung first, besides many others. 
 
 At 10 o'clock the following morning, February 
 12th, the court again met, and a jury was empanelled. 
 At the opening of the court, a letter of the prisoner, 
 containing his confession, was read publicly, then 
 signed by himself, and witnessed by certain members 
 of the court and other individuals present. 
 
 With the testimony already before the court, the 
 jury could have brought in an immediate verdict : but 
 it was deemed advisable to present other evidence, to 
 show still further the unmistakable guilt of every one 
 who had been punished; especially as one or two 
 persons, who passed ■ for honest and honorable men, 
 were interested in upholding the character of their 
 associates. The prisoner was found guilty, and sen- 
 tenced to be hanged. At 4 o'clock, p. m., of the same 
 day, he was taken to the church ; where, with penitent 
 lips, and on bended knees, he made his final confession, 
 received the blessing of the priest, and from thence 
 
166 EVENTS AT 
 
 was taken to the spot where he was to be executed. 
 His last request for himself was that he might be 
 buried as respectably as the circumstances of his case 
 would admit. While standing under the tree, with 
 the rope around his neck, he begged to be allowed 
 to say a few words to those around. He exhorted 
 those both younger and older than himself, to take 
 warning from his example. They could see what 
 gambling, swearing, drinking, and an ungovernable 
 temper, with evil associates, had brought him to. He 
 had run away from home at the age of fourteen, 
 and would never see that home again. With other 
 remarks of like character, he concluded. At half past 
 4 o'clock, p. m., the law was carried into effect, using 
 the same tree where the three others were executed. 
 Young was a native of one of the western States. He 
 had been several years on the Mexican frontier, and 
 was well known in Texas as a most desperate character. 
 
 The well-merited punishment of these four men 
 was highly applauded and justified by both the civil 
 and military authorities of the frontier. Such an 
 example had been needed for some time. The vicinity 
 was now rid of gangs of worthless desperadoes ; and 
 as a Mexican citizen of the peaceable old town of 
 Socorro remarked, " We can now sit in the evening at 
 the doors of our houses, and not be obliged, as before, 
 to retire »with the sunlight, fix bolts and bars, and 
 huddle into corners with fear and trembling." 
 
 February 22d. In return for the civilities extended 
 to me and the officers of the Commission by the autho- 
 rities of El Paso, I gave a dinner to the Mexican Com- 
 mission and the public authorities, which came off y ester- 
 
EL PASO. 167 
 
 day 5 several officers of the United States army stationed 
 here were also among the guests. In the evening, I 
 invited the principal citizens of the town to a ball 
 and supper, and was honored by the attendance of 
 about fifty ladies. Mr. Magoffin, whose house, in 
 which I had my quarters, was the most spacious on the 
 river, threw the whole open for the occasion, giving 
 me thereby ample accommodations for the large party 
 which had assembled. But as the greater portion of 
 the company lived on the opposite bank of the river, 
 it was no easy matter to get them together. I there- 
 fore sent my carriage, and others that were kindly 
 furnished me, for my guests ; and as it was between 
 three and four miles from my quarters to El Paso, 
 including the fording of the Rio Grande, it was neces- 
 sary to begin fetching them at the unfashionable hour 
 of four o'clock in the afternoon. The river had to be 
 forded by daylight, in consequence of the frequent 
 changes in the channel and the bars.* 
 
 I was quite at a loss for furniture and fittings for 
 my entertainment. Chairs were borrowed of the 
 
 * Accidents often happened in fording the river at night. But a 
 short time previous a party of Americans, with ladies, in attempting to 
 cross when it was quite dark, missed their way, and nearly perished. 
 Their carriage remained more than an hour filled with water in the 
 middle of the river. They could not land except at the regular fording 
 place, as the banks were steep : and they were only rescued by making 
 themselves heard by people near the shore. I once got into a similar 
 dilemma myself. I and my companions had to get out of the carriage 
 windows and stand upon the tops of the wheels, while the driver was 
 sent for assistance. Several Mexicans came, and, taking one on each 
 of their backs, carried us safely on shore, though a little the worse for 
 our immersion. 
 
168 EVENTS AT 
 
 neighbors far and near ; but even with these I had not 
 half seats enough for the company. This, however, 
 proved no great inconvenience ; for the Mexican ladies, 
 preferring to sit a la Turk, formed a double row 
 around the dancing room. The senoras occupied the 
 trunks, chairs, and settees, and the senoritas the 
 carpet in front. My friends in the vicinity kindly 
 furnished me with tables, lamps, dishes, and such other 
 necessaries as the occasion required. To light the 
 large hall properly most tried my ingenuity ; but this 
 difficulty was overcome by means of a new-fashioned 
 chandelier improvised by one of our gentlemen for 
 the occasion. Sockets for the candles were first 
 required ; and these were constructed out of the tin 
 boxes in which sardines had been preserved. Next, 
 a hoop from a pork barrel was divested of its bark, 
 and wrapped around with binding of a bright scarlet 
 hue, which had been brought out to decorate the 
 heads of the fair Apaches and Comanches, as well as 
 the tails and manes of their animals. Into this hoop 
 or frame the tin sockets were fixed, and the whole 
 supported by several loops of the same elegant mate- 
 rial fastened to a common centre. Such was the style 
 and origin of our chandeliers, with their dozen burners 
 each ; four of which, suspended from the ceiling, shed 
 such a ray of light upon the festal hall, as ren- 
 dered the charms of the fair senoritas doubly capti- 
 vating. The evening passed off pleasantly; and all 
 danger of crossing the river was obviated by the com- 
 pany remaining till eight o'clock the following morning. 
 After treating all to a cup of coffee, the carriages and 
 other vehicles were ordered up, and the company 
 conducted safelv to their homes. 
 
EL PASO. 169 
 
 March 8th. Major Shepard, commanding at Dona 
 Ana, gave me information to-day that seven soldiers 
 belonging to Colonel Craig's command, had deserted 
 from our escort at the Copper Mines, and wished me 
 to aid him in having them arrested and brought back. 
 With this view, I rode over immediately to the quar- 
 ters of General Conde, at El Paso, accompanied by 
 Major Van Home, to ask his co-operation. The Gene- 
 ral agreed to send a courier at once to the military 
 commandant at Chihuahua, three hundred and twenty 
 miles distant, requesting him to take such measures as 
 would lead to the capture and restoration of the 
 deserters, if they should be seen at any of the military 
 posts on the frontier. 
 
 March 28th. Made up a little party of nine per- 
 sons, besides a cook and servant, for an excursion to 
 the Sierra Waco, about thirty miles distant, the last, 
 stopping place on our journey from San Antonio. It 
 was so interesting a spot, and our stop there was so 
 short, that I determined at the time to take an opportu- 
 nity to revisit it, in order to make a more thorough ex- 
 amination. We left at eight o'clock, a. m., with my 
 carriage and one wagon for camp equipage, cooking 
 utensils, and provisions, all the gentlemen going on 
 horseback or on mules. After a very tedious ride over 
 a sandy road, we reached the tanks at four in the 
 afternoon, and encamped near a natural cavern in the 
 rocks, where we found excellent water. As this was 
 a favorite place of resort for the Apaches, we did 
 not feel safe until we had climbed the rocks which 
 overhung our place of encampment, and searched for 
 " Indian sign." We found many traces of visitors, 
 
170 EVENTS AT 
 
 such as the marks of mules, on the very summit of the 
 rock, but none recent. A party had evidently been 
 there some time before us, which, for concealment, 
 had taken their animals to the top of the rock in pre- 
 ference to leaving them below. 
 
 March 29th. The night had been cold, but to-day 
 it was quite warm. Rambled over the great rocky 
 mass to see what could be found of interest. Discov- 
 ered several pools or tanks of clear and beautiful water, 
 where it had collected from rains, or the melting of 
 snows. The formation here is granite in place, rising 
 from 100 to 150 feet above the surrounding plain, and 
 covered with huge boulders piled up in every imagi- 
 nary form. Along the sides and base these great 
 boulders also lie ; whence the inference seems natural 
 that this rocky mass existed before the mountains in 
 the vicinity were heaved up, as there are no boulders 
 on the adjacent hills. As might be supposed in such 
 a heap of gigantic boulders, there are many cavern-like 
 recesses which seem to have been the abode of Indians. 
 In many places, too, the rock projects or overhangs ; 
 and in others frightful chasms, as though rent asunder 
 by some violent concussion, appear : all of which seem 
 to have been known to the Indians, and in some in- 
 stances long used by them as places of habitation. At 
 one portion of the southern mass, nearly half a mile 
 from the road, there is an overhanging rock extending 
 for some distance, the whole surface of which is covered 
 with rude paintings and sculptures, representing men, 
 animals, birds, snakes, and fantastic figures. The 
 colors used are black, red, white, and a brownish 
 yellow. The sculptures are mere peckings with a 
 
EL PASO. 
 
 171 
 
 sharp instrument, just below the surface of the rock. 
 On the shelving portion of the place in question are 
 several circular holes in the solid granite from twelve 
 to fifteen inches deep, which the Indians have made 
 and used as mortars for pounding their corn in ; similar 
 ones being found all over the country where the abo- 
 rigines have had their habitations. There were other 
 places where they had sharpened or ground down their 
 arrows and spears. The accompanying engravings 
 show the character of the figures, and the taste of the 
 designers. Hundreds of similar ones are painted on 
 the rocks at this place ; some of them, evidently of great 
 
 jlPllIIlllllI 
 
 age, had been partly defaced to make room for more 
 recent devices. 
 
 The overhanging rock beneath which we encamped 
 seemed to have been a favorite place of resort for the 
 Indians, as it is at the present day for all passing trav- 
 ellers. The recess formed by this rock is about fifteen 
 
172 
 
 EVENTS AT 
 
 feet in length, by ten in width. Its entire surface is 
 covered with paintings, one laid on over the other ; so 
 that it is difficult to make out those which belong to 
 
 the aborigines. I copied a portion of these figures, 
 about which there can be no doubt as to the origin. 
 They represent Indians with shields and bows, painted 
 
 with a brownish earth ; horses with their riders ; 
 uncouth looking animals ; and a huge rattlesnake. 
 Similar devices cover the rock in every part, but are 
 much defaced. Over these are figures of late travel- 
 
EL PASO. 
 
 173 
 
 lers and emigrants; who have taken this means to 
 immortalize their names, and let posterit) r know that 
 they were on their way to California. Near this over- 
 hanging rock is the largest and finest tank or pool of 
 water to be found about here. It is only reached by 
 clambering on the hands and knees fifteen or twenty 
 
 feet up a steep rock. Over it projects a gigantic 
 boulder, which, resting on or wedged between other 
 rocks, leaves a space of about four feet above the sur- 
 face of the water. On the under side of this boulder 
 are fantastic designs in red paint, which could only 
 
 have been made by persons lying on their backs in 
 this cool and sheltered spot. One of these, a singular 
 
174 EVENTS AT 
 
 geometric figure, I copied while resting in the same 
 position secluded from the burning sun. 
 
 In a deep cleft in the rock, on the south side of the 
 road which we followed for one hundred and fifty feet 
 into the interior, were many bones of wild beasts. 
 Near this the hills expand, forming an amphitheatre, 
 which is celebrated from its being the place where the 
 Apaches used formerly to hold their councils, and the 
 scene of a contest between them and the Mexicans. 
 The Indians had been committing some depredations 
 and murders in the settlements, and, being pursued, 
 were traced to the Waco Mountains. A party' set off 
 from El Paso, and surprised them in the narrow space 
 or amphitheatre alluded to. The besieged retreated 
 as far as possible ; and finding no chance to escape, 
 they built a wall across the entrance, which is about 
 one hundred feet from one perpendicular mass of rock 
 to the other. Here they were kept several days, when 
 they were finally overcome, and all, to the number of 
 a hundred and fifty, put to death. 
 
 In the afternoon we walked about two miles to the 
 centre of the plain, which is bounded on the west by 
 the great Waco Mountain, to some singular piles of 
 rocks, which attracted our attention when passing 
 through here in November, but were too far off the 
 road for us to examine them at the time. At the 
 distance of half a mile, they appear like the ruined 
 walls of some great edifice ; and when first discovered, 
 all exclaimed, "Ruins!" On reaching them, we found 
 them to be upheaved masses of reddish granite, 
 blackened by the weather, so as to present, in their 
 detached position in the plain, a strong resemblance 
 
EL PASO. 175 
 
 to ruined buildings. There were three groups of these 
 singular rocks, a few rods apart, entirely disconnected, 
 yet of the same general character. Their sides were 
 perpendicular, like walls ; their height about sixty feet. 
 In the crevices at their base, and on their summits, 
 grew a few bushes, which added to their picturesque 
 appearance. But the most singular feature about them 
 was, that many portions of their exterior surface were 
 as smooth and as highly polished as though they had 
 been submitted to some artificial process. It was 
 probably the effect of exposure for ages to the weather. 
 A similar appearance was observed at Thome's Wells, in 
 the Cornudos del Alamo, described on our journey from 
 San Antonio. I took a sketch of these curious rocks, 
 which will convey a better idea of their appearance. 
 
 March 30^. Accompanied by a party of six, well 
 armed and mounted on horses and mules, I left camp 
 early in the morning to visit the great Waco Mountain. 
 The mountain was about five miles distant, and the 
 route lay through the very pass which we traversed 
 on a former occasion. Stopped at the place where 
 we let the carriage down by ropes, of which I 
 took a sketch. It was one of the most grand and pic- 
 turesque scenes I had witnessed on our journey up. 
 There was much more vegetation here now, and Mr. 
 Thurber made many additions to his collection of 
 plants. It is in the beds of these mountain torrents or 
 ravines, that the flora presents the greatest variety. 
 Although the plants found here are adapted by their 
 nature to these parched and desert regions, they nev- 
 ertheless appear to seek the more secluded spots, 
 which afford them a little protection from the scorching 
 
176 EVENTS AT 
 
 sun. Very few birds were descried. On reaching the 
 great plain east of the mountain, we found several 
 flocks of quails, of a different kind from those seen 
 near the Rio Grande. These latter were all gray, like 
 the northern quail ; while those on the opposite side of 
 the mountain are the blue or California quail, with a 
 top-knot on its head. Got a few as specimens. As 
 there was time enough to ascend to the top of the 
 mountain, which is accessible from the east, we went 
 around and struck the road which passes on the 
 opposite side. This is the route taken by wagons. It 
 is four or five miles longer; and although very hilly 
 and tortuous, the narrow defile and perpendicular 
 descent of the opposite route is avoided. Yet I would 
 prefer the latter, even for loaded wagons, if the rock 
 at the place referred to was cut away, a labor easily 
 accomplished. After making a circuit of the mountain, 
 and collecting some specimens of insects, reptiles, and 
 plants, we reached our camp under the rock at 4 
 o'clock, p. m., well pleased with our little jaunt. The 
 following day we returned to El Paso. 
 
 This was the only excursion I made from El Paso 
 during the winter I was detained there, except visits 
 on business to Dona Ana, Socorro, and San Eleazario, 
 The Commission was as actively occupied as circum- 
 stances would permit. Lieutenant Whipple established 
 an astronomical observatory at San Eleazario in Decem- 
 ber, and in February at Frontera, a rancho belonging 
 to Mr. White, on the banks of the river, about eight 
 miles above El Paso. This was intended for the perma- 
 nent astronomical observatory and station, until the 
 completion of the survey on this portion of the line. 
 
EI PASO. 177 
 
 As soon as the initial point of the boundary line, 
 where the Rio Grande intersects the southern boundary 
 of New Mexico, had been agreed upon by the Joint 
 Commission, Lieutenant Whipple entered upon his 
 duties as Chief Astronomer, to determine the position 
 of the point on the Earth's surface, taking with him 
 such assistants from the engineers and surveyors, etc., 
 as he required. A second party, first under J. H. 
 Prioleau, Esq., and subsequently under Thomas Thomp- 
 son, Esq., entered the field in January, 1851, and 
 commenced the survey of the Rio Grande at San 
 Eleazario, which they continued up to the initial point 
 at 32° 22' north latitude. I also set a small party at 
 work to make a survey of the town of El Paso and 
 district adjacent, including the mountains, the pass, 
 etc., embraced in a circuit of ten miles. These were 
 all the parties I could place upon the survey, until the 
 arrival of the chief astronomer, Brevet Lieutenant 
 Colonel J. D. Graham, who had been appointed to that 
 place in October last, but had not yet arrived. Conse- 
 quently a large number of the engineers, with their 
 assistants, could not be occupied ; and this I greatly 
 regretted, as the best season for field operations was 
 now passing away. 
 
 I had given employment, for a few weeks, to John; 
 Bull, Esq., one of the first assistant engineers, with his 
 party, in making a reconnoissance of the country 
 between the Rio Grande and the Gila, via the Copper 
 Mines of New Mexico, a district over part of which 
 the boundary would run. Mr. Bull explored a new 
 and more direct route from Dona Ana to the Copper 
 Mines than that usually travelled ; and examined the' 
 VOL. i. — 12 
 
178 EVENTS AT 
 
 country between them and the Gila, as well as that 
 between them and the Mexican frontier post of Janos, 
 about one hundred and fifty miles to the south, in the 
 State of Chihuahua. 
 
 As it was necessary, in carrying the survey west- 
 ward, to establish depots of provisions at accessible 
 points, I sent Dr. Webb to the Copper Mines, as I have 
 before stated, to see what its advantages were, with a 
 view, too, of making it the head-quarters of the Com- 
 mission during the progress of the survey in that 
 quarter. After an absence of three weeks, that gen- 
 tleman returned and made so favorable a report, that I 
 instructed Quarter-master Myer to remove thither with 
 the wagons, mules, camp equipage, etc., not needed 
 by the parties in the field. I also instructed Mr. 
 Henry Jacobs, acting Commissary, to deposit there at 
 the same time all the subsistence and other stores in 
 his department. I annex a brief extract from Dr. 
 Webb's report: — 
 
 ',' The result at which I have arrived is, that the 
 Copper Mines are preferable to any other spot in this 
 section for the establishment of a depot of provisions 
 and other stores, and for the location of the head- 
 quarters of the Boundary Commission ; being nearer 
 the region which must be the field of labor the ensuing 
 season ; and as both property and person will be as 
 secure and free from predatory attacks there as they 
 can be elsewhere, provided a suitable military guard 
 is furnished for their protection. 
 
 ■ ' The essentials of a good situation for the pur- 
 poses had in contemplation present themselves at Santa 
 Rita (the proper name of the copper mine region), in 
 
EL PASO. 179 
 
 greater number than can be found combined in any 
 other spot within proper limits, of which we have cog- 
 nizance. We find there a fine, airy, salubrious spot 
 for dwellings, with some adobe houses (abandoned 
 at the breaking up of the settlement on a threatened 
 excursion of the Indians, in the fall of 1838), which, 
 with little labor can be made tenantable ; good tim- 
 ber, within a few miles, for building and other pur- 
 poses, as also limestone and other useful materials for 
 similar objects ; a great plenty of wood near at hand 
 for fuel ; abundance of excellent grass for the animals, 
 which will materially lessen the expense now neces- 
 sarily incurred by furnishing them with grain ; and a 
 running stream, affording a supply of pure, fresh water, 
 so essential to the comfort of both man and beast. 
 The garrison, or fortress, that was erected for the pro- 
 tection of the former inhabitants of this place, is of 
 ample dimensions to accommodate all the troops that 
 will probably at any one time be stationed there, and 
 can, without much difficulty, be put in good condition 
 for the purpose ; indeed, Colonel Craig is now actively 
 engaged in directing its reparation. 
 
 '.- In addition, though secondary to these, I would 
 observe, that the soil is good for agricultural and hor- 
 ticultural purposes ; as is indicated by the remaining 
 vestiges of the garden plats once cultivated, as well as 
 by the rank, luxuriant growth of the peach-trees, still 
 in bearing condition : and it is said that wild game, 
 bears, deer, turkeys, etc., abound in the vicinity. 
 
 " The botanist, there is every reason for supposing, 
 will, in that quarter, find a large and almost unex- 
 plored field, a suitable examination of which will 
 
180 EVENTS AT 
 
 undoubtedly amply repay him for all the time and 
 labor devoted to its examination; and the collection 
 of specimens I made, even on this flying trip, con- 
 vinces me that, by proper explorations and well 
 directed research, a geologist might make discoveries, 
 and with the industry and perseverance that a true 
 love of the science will inspire, might make collec- 
 tions, both geological and mineralogical, that will 
 prove of interest at home and abroad, and be of per- 
 manent value to the country. 
 
 "In conclusion, I would suggest, if the decision be 
 to remove to the Copper Mines, it is important to have 
 the provisions, etc., sent forward with as little delay 
 as possible, inasmuch as it will be necessary to cross 
 the Rio del Norte at San Diego ; and this stream is lia- 
 ble to be so greatly and so suddenly swollen in the 
 spring, that a very little delay might render it ex- 
 tremely difficult and dangerous, if not impracticable, 
 to ford it with the teams, and thus make it necessary 
 to build boats for the transportation of the property 
 to the opposite side of the stream." 
 
 I remained at El Paso until the 19th of April, 
 unable to place any other parties on the line, greatly 
 to the injury of the Commission and the interests of 
 the Government. The whole astronomical force in 
 the Commission was with the acting chief astronomer, 
 Lieutenant Whipple ; and I did not feel justified in 
 sending parties to make the survey of either the Rio 
 Grande, towards its mouth, or the Gila, until the chief 
 astronomer, Colonel Graham, should arrive, with the 
 other officers of the topographical corps, which had 
 been detailed for duty on the Commission. Six 
 
EL PASO. 181 
 
 months had now elapsed since his appointment, and I 
 had received no letters to explain the cause of this, 
 delay. 
 
 The astronomers of the two Commissions having 
 determined the position of the initial point on the Rio 
 Grande, as before stated, I departed for the place on 
 the 19th of April, for the purpose of signing the docu- 
 ments necessary to establish that point, and of attend- 
 ing to such ceremonies as the importance of the event 
 seemed to demand ; after which I intended to proceed 
 at once to the new head-quarters of the Commission, 
 at Santa Rita del Cobre, or the Copper Mines. 
 
182 EL PASO AND 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 EL PASO AND VALLEY OF THE RIO GRANDE. 
 
 Early colonization of Mexico — Position of El Paso — Mode of irrigation — Ag- 
 ricultural productions — Vegetables — Fruits — Extensive culture of the 
 grape — Wine — Brandy — The Eio Grande — Deficiency of water — Uncer- 
 tainty of crops — Houses — How built — Oriental style preserved — Pri- 
 mitive mode of life — Flour mills — Degeneracy of people — Dress — Set- 
 tlement on the American side — Coon's Rancho — MagoflBnsville — Socorro 
 — San Eleazario — Mountain chains — Plants — Current and sinuosity of 
 the Rio Grande. 
 
 In a work like the present, which professes to be a 
 " personal narrative," it can hardly be expected that 
 much space should be devoted to an historical or geo- 
 graphical description of the countries visited. Such 
 digressions are important only as illustrations of the 
 narrative, and must necessarily be limited. It was my 
 intention to devote a chapter to these subjects, so far 
 as they relate to New Mexico ; but after looking over 
 my materials, I find them so ample respecting the 
 discovery and colonization of this country and the 
 almost unexplored region between it and California, 
 that the subject would fill half a volume if I gave it 
 the attention it really deserved. There is no portion 
 of the early history of this continent, whether it be that 
 
VALLEY OF THE RIO GRANDE. 183 
 
 of the first establishment of the pilgrims in New Eng- 
 land, the labors of the zealous Catholics in Canada, or 
 the planting of the colonies in Virginia, that can vie 
 with the extraordinary adventures and sufferings of 
 the pioneers who first traversed the broad prairies and 
 deserts of the central portions of our continent. Long- 
 before the consecration of Plymouth Kock, the religion 
 of Christ had been made known to the Indians of 
 New Mexico ; the country of the buffalo was visited ; 
 the Rocky Mountains were scaled; and the Gila and 
 Colorado Rivers, which in our day are attracting so 
 much interest as novelties, were passed again and 
 again by the persevering and energetic Spaniard. 
 The broad continent, too, to cross which, with all the 
 advantages we possess, requires a whole season, was 
 traversed from ocean to ocean before Raleigh, Or Smith, 
 or the Pilgrim Fathers had touched our shores. The 
 topic is too prolific to be crowded into a journal of 
 travels ; and requires much study, and a careful examina- 
 tion of the numerous Spanish manuscripts and early 
 books in which the remarkable adventures alluded to 
 are related. 
 
 The geography of New Mexico, and of the other 
 countries visited by the Boundary Commission, is also 
 a subject of deep interest, and requires more space 
 than can possibly be given to it at this time. I shall 
 therefore say no more than is necessary to make the 
 reader familiar with the prominent features of the par- 
 ticular region over which he follows us, and of the 
 towns and villages through which we pass. With 
 this understanding, I shall give a brief account of El 
 Paso, and the adjacent district. 
 
184 EL PASO AND 
 
 The town of El Paso del Norte is situated on the 
 western bank of the Rio Grande, otherwise known as 
 the Rio Bravo del Norte, in the north-eastern corner 
 of the State of Chihuahua. It is compactly built for 
 the space of half a mile near the plaza ; and from there it 
 extends from five to ten miles along the rich bottom 
 lands of the river, each house being surrounded by 
 orchards, vineyards, and cultivated fields. The valley 
 or bottom land is here from one to two miles in width. 
 There were regular missionaries here before the year 
 1600, who traced the valley far to the north ; the pre- 
 cise date of their permanent establishment is not 
 known, though I think it may with some certainty be 
 placed in 1585. At the time of the advent of the 
 Spaniards, the Piro Indians, who occupied the valley 
 extending as far north as Taos, had a village called 
 Sinecu, which still exists within the space now al- 
 lotted to the town ; and it is quite probable that from 
 a missionary establishment here, arose the present 
 town of El Paso. Its name is not owing to its being 
 the pass of the river ; for that is fordable at all points, 
 by levelling its muddy banks, except where its current 
 is deepened by being contracted within a very narrow 
 space. Between two and three miles above the plaza, 
 where the river forces its way through the mountains, 
 there is a dam, the object of which is to raise the water 
 and divert it into the aceqmas, or irrigating canals, 
 which conduct it through the bottom lands on both 
 sides of the river. The principal of these canals, called 
 the acequia madre, is about fifteen feet wide ; from it 
 smaller ones branch off in every direction. 
 
 As may readily be supposed, with a rich alluvial 
 
VALLEY OF THE RIO GRANDE. 185 
 
 soil, and water at command, the productiveness of 
 this valley is great. The chief cereals cultivated are 
 wheat and maize. Oats were first planted the season 
 I was here, and the experiment was highly successful ; 
 the yield being greater than east of the Mississippi. 
 Potatoes do not succeed in the El Paso valley. Many 
 attempts have been made to naturalize them by early 
 and late planting, as well as varying the quality of 
 water ; but all have proved unavailing. It is true I 
 have seen very good potatoes raised farther north, in 
 the vicinity of Santa Fe ; but the failures have been so 
 numerous that they cannot be said to succeed. Onions 
 and pumpkins are raised to a great extent, the former 
 yielding enormously. Other vegetables are but little 
 cultivated ; which I think is more owing to the want of 
 attention than to any fault of the soil or climate. The 
 fruits are grapes, apples, pears, quinces, peaches, and 
 apricots. The quinces are quite equal to our own ; 
 but the peaches lack the delicious flavor of the nor- 
 thern fruit, and the apples and pears are decidedly 
 inferior. The grape is the most extensively cultivated 
 of all fruits. It resembles the Hamburgh grape, 
 though not quite as large, and is said to have been 
 brought from Spain. There are both white and pur- 
 ple varieties. Large vineyards of this delicious fruit 
 are seen within the town and the district adjacent to- 
 El Paso. The vine is never staked or trailed. It is 
 trimmed close in the fall ; and in the spring it throws 
 out its shoots from the very stump, near which hangs 
 the fruit. Each vine is kept separate, and the earth 
 around freed from weeds. Careful cultivators cover 
 the vines during the winter with straw. With the 
 
186 EL PASO AND 
 
 first opening of spring the vineyards are irrigated, or 
 rather inundated ; for the water is suffered to flow 
 over them, and there to remain until the ground is 
 thoroughly saturated. This is generally all the water 
 they get. In July, the grapes come to maturity, and 
 last full three months. As may be supposed from the 
 abundance of this fruit, it is exceedingly cheap, and 
 forms a large portion of the food of the inhabitants 
 during the season. 
 
 In order to extract the juice of the grapes, they 
 are thrown into large vats, and trodden by the naked 
 feet of men ; after which they are put into bags or 
 sacks of raw ox-hide and pressed. The wine of El 
 Paso enjoys a higher reputation in certain parts of the 
 United States than it deserves. I have drank little 
 ithat was above mediocrity ; and it served me as it 
 does most others who are not used to it, causing a 
 •severe headache. But I have no doubt that with pro- 
 ber attention a superior quality of wine may be pro- 
 duced here ; and such is the opinion of those familiar 
 with grape countries, who have tasted the El Paso 
 wine. Brandy, or aguardiente, is also made from the 
 grape. It is of a light color, and is known in New Mex- 
 ico as " Pass Whiskey.' 1 Both the wine and brandy 
 are transported to various parts of New Mexico and 
 Chihuahua ; and some even finds its way to Durango. 
 
 The Eio Grande valley near El Paso, and generally 
 in other places, is thickly timbered with cotton-wood. 
 The trees sometimes grow to a large size. Mezquit is 
 found on the borders between the plateau and the val- 
 ley ; on the plateau itself it appears in a shrubby state. 
 Gotton-wood and the roots of the mezquit constitute 
 .the fuel of Ahe country. 
 
VALLEY OF THE RIO GRANDE. 187 
 
 The river near the town varies in width from 300 
 to 600 feet. It is muddy and sluggish except during 
 freshets. In no place, between its'source above Santa 
 Fe and its mouth, is it spanned by a single bridge. It 
 is easily forded at El Paso, and probably for two thirds 
 its length, the greatest depth of the water where it is 
 crossed being only from two to three feet. Still, there 
 are places, even near El Paso, where it is much deeper. 
 The ford changes more or less every season. In some 
 places there are quicksands ; in which wagons sink so 
 deep, that they are extricated with the greatest diffi- 
 culty, and are sometimes lost. The freshets that take 
 place are owing to the melting of the snows in the 
 Rocky Mountains. These are not of yearly occur- 
 rence; for during the summers of 1851 and '52, there 
 were none. The river not only did not swell or over- 
 flow its banks, but in the former year it became quite 
 dry near El Paso, all the water being transferred to 
 the acequias. 
 
 A mistaken idea prevails in regard to the great 
 advantage of artificial irrigation over that of natural 
 rains. It is true that where the cultivator can depend 
 upon an ample supply of water at all seasons in the 
 irrigating canals, he possesses an advantage over him 
 who relies exclusively on nature. But the misfortune 
 is, that when water is most needed, the supply is the 
 scantiest. In February and March there is always 
 enough for the first irrigation. In April and May the 
 quantity is much diminished ; and if the rise, expected 
 to take place the middle of May, fails, there is not 
 enough to irrigate properly all the fields prepared for 
 it. The consequence is, a partial failure of the crop. 
 
188 EL PASO AND 
 
 In 1851 many large tracts of land near El Paso, which 
 were planted in the spring, and through which irrigat- 
 ing canals were dug at a great cost, produced nothing ; 
 and I was told by a gentleman at San Eleazario, 
 twenty-five miles below El Paso, that the summer of 
 1852 was the first one in five years when there had 
 been sufficient to irrigate all the lands of that vicinity 
 which had been put under cultivation. The value of 
 lands dependent on artificial irrigation is much lessen- 
 ed when this fact is known. 
 
 Much has been said of the great value of the Me- 
 silla valley on the Mexican bank, some thirty or forty 
 miles above El Paso. We have a similar valley on our 
 side of the Rio Grande, as well situated and equally 
 productive. We have besides more than two thousand 
 miles of this river bottom, between the source of the 
 Rio Grande and its mouth. Where the hills and 
 mountains approach close to the stream, there is of 
 course little or no bottom land ; while at other places, 
 it varies from a hundred yards to four miles in width. 
 But of this fertile land not one tenth part can ever be 
 regularly and successfully cultivated, owing to the un- 
 certainty of the supply of water. The Rio Grande re- 
 ceives no tributary for more than four hundred miles, 
 reckoning above and below El Paso ; and if there 
 is now found to be not water enough even for the 
 limited district near that town, what is to be done 
 with the vast tract along the river below in a time of 
 scarcity ? 
 
 The houses at El Paso are all of one story, and 
 built of adobe, i. e. the mud of the valley formed into 
 bricks from twelve to eighteen inches long, and four 
 
VALLEY OF THE RIO GEA.NDE. 
 
 189 
 
 inches thick, and baked in the sun. This material, 
 with slight repairs, will endure for centuries. Some- 
 times chopped straw and gravel are mixed with it, 
 which greatly improves its quality. The houses of the 
 better classes are large, and built in the form of a hollow 
 square. The walls are from two to three feet in thick- 
 ness, and have but few openings. When plastered 
 and whitewashed they look very neat, and make com- 
 fortable dwellings. All the floors are laid with mud, 
 concrete, or brick. Such a thing as a wooden floor is 
 unknown in the country. This mode of building, as 
 well as the material, is precisely that adopted by the 
 
 Jill* 
 
 HIS #§p 
 
 Chnrch and Plaza, El Paso. 
 
 ancient Assyrians, and practised at the present day on 
 the banks of the Euphrates and the Nile. From the 
 
190 EL PASO AND 
 
 East the style was introduced into Spain by the Moors, 
 and by the Spaniards was taken to Mexico. Moorish 
 capitals and ornaments are still visible both in the fine 
 dwelling and the humble cottage in northern Mexico. 
 There is a venerable looking church here, constructed 
 of adobe, which the cura, Ramon Ortiz, informed me 
 had been built more than two hundred years. 
 
 Window glass is not used here. The ordinary 
 dwellings of the poorer class have no windows. The 
 larger ones are entered by a large gateway, and have 
 a few barred openings on the street. The other three 
 sides present externally an unbroken and prison-like 
 appearance. To all other parts of the house the light 
 is admitted through windows or doors opening on 
 the inner area. As the period is short during which 
 the weather requires the houses to be closed, the occu- 
 pants make them sufficiently warm by covering the 
 opening with muslin or white cotton. Fires are but 
 little used, except for cooking ; and although it is cold 
 enough at times, the people manage to get along 
 somehow through the winter without them. 
 
 Until the advent of the Americans after the Texan 
 annexation and the Mexican war, the Pasenos were a 
 most primitive people. There was no town of any note 
 nearer than Chihuahua, in Mexico, three hundred miles 
 distant, and San Antonio, on the eastern side, six 
 hundred and seventy miles off. Hence they saw few 
 strangers, and enjoyed few of the luxuries of their 
 civilized brethren. A metate stone on which to grind 
 their corn and wheat, and a few articles of coarse 
 pottery, constituted the utensils of the poorer classes 
 for eating, drinking, and cooking. At present they 
 
VALLEY OF THE RIO GRANDE. 191 
 
 obtain every thing that can be transported thither 
 by wagons, though, of course, at a greatly enhanced 
 cost. The price of labor too has doubled, and in 
 some cases quadrupled. Day laborers (Mexican) 
 receive five reals (sixty-two and a half cents), and find 
 themselves. Mechanics, who are chiefly Americans, 
 command very high wages. Carpenters and black- 
 smiths earn three dollars a day, and when they take 
 jobs, much more. Corn (maize), in the winter of 
 1850-51, brought from seven to eight dollars a fanega 
 of two bushels and five eighths, although the following 
 year it fell to five dollars. 
 
 There are now two flour mills at the falls near El 
 Paso ; one on the Mexican side, belonging to Ponce de 
 Leon, and one on the American side, belonging to 
 Mr. E. Hart. The latter is a fine establishment, and 
 now supplies the United States troops here with 
 flour. In 1850-51 flour was selling here from ten to 
 twelve and a half cents per pound. 
 
 There are a few respectable old Spanish families at 
 El Paso, Avho possess much intelligence, as well as that 
 elegance and dignity of manner which characterized 
 their ancestors. Among these may be found many 
 names which are illustrious in Spanish history and 
 literature. But there is no great middle class, as in 
 the United States and England. A vast gulf inter- 
 venes between these Castilians and the masses, who 
 are a mixed breed, possessing none of the virtues of 
 their European ancestors, but all their vices, with those 
 of the aborigines superadded. The Indian physiogno- 
 my is indelibly stamped upon them ; and it requires 
 little sagacity to discriminate between the pure and 
 
192 EL PASO AND 
 
 the mixed race. The latter are generally very dark, 
 though some are seen of fairer complexion. 
 
 The upper class dress as we do. Among the 
 inferior classes, the men wear a short jacket with 
 large white cotton drawers, over which are drawn pan- 
 taloons, open at the outer side, from the hip down. 
 Along this are rows of gilt buttons and other orna- 
 ments. Around the waist a red silk sash is generally 
 worn. The whole is covered with a serape or blanket 
 in cold weather. All the women wear the reboso — a 
 scarf thrown over the head and around the shoulders : 
 it is made of silk or cotton, and costs from one to. 
 thirty dollars. The most respectable ladies generally 
 appear in the street in black, but at evening par- 
 ties the richest and most gaudy articles are worn. 
 Smoking is indulged in by all classes, and by both 
 sexes. It is not considered proper, however, for 
 young gentlemen or ladies to smoke before their 
 parents. I noticed the same respect shown by all 
 at an entertainment when the Bishop of Durango 
 was present. After dinner cigars were brought in. 
 Every gentleman helped himself, and retired to 
 another room to smoke, leaving his reverence and 
 myself alone. 
 
 El Paso, on the Mexican side of the river, which I 
 have been describing, contains about five thousand 
 inhabitants ; but the number would be much increased 
 by including the many ranchos and haciendas below 
 the town, which properly appertain to it. On the 
 American side there are but few houses ; and these 
 may be divided into three groups or settlements. The 
 first is Coons' Rancho. This was the first settlement, and 
 
VALLEY OF THE RIO GRANDE. 193 
 
 was the military post for about three years, under the 
 command of Major Van Home. Many of the build- 
 ings are now unoccupied. 
 
 About one and a half miles below is the principal 
 village, which was established by James W. Magoffin, 
 Esq., a gentleman from Missouri, and one of the oldest 
 American settlers in the country. This place is called 
 Magoffinsville, and was the head-quarters of the Boun- 
 dary Commission while in the country. Its enterpris- 
 ing proprietor has erected around a large open square 
 some of the best buildings in the country, which are 
 now occupied as stores and warehouses. This is an 
 admirable situation for a town, and will, no doubt, be 
 the centre of the American settlements at El Paso.* 
 An acequia now runs through the square, and the land 
 around is of the finest quality. A mile further east is a 
 large rancho belonging to Mr. Stevenson, around which 
 is a cluster of smaller dwellings. 
 
 About ten miles below El Paso is an island some 
 twenty miles in length ; it is one of the most fertile 
 spots in the whole valley, and has been cultivated 
 since the first settlement of the country. On this 
 island, which belongs to the United States, are the towns 
 of Isleta, Socorro, and San Eleazario, chiefly inhabited 
 by Mexicans. Of these San Eleazario is the larger, and 
 was the old Presidio or military post on the frontier. 
 It contains many respectable Spanish families, and some 
 few Americans. It is now the seat of the county 
 
 * The exact position of the centre of this plaza or square, as deter- 
 mined by Lieut. Whipple, is 31° 46' 05", 5 north latitude, and 1° 5' 
 24 // longitude west from Greenwich. The distance due south to the 
 centre of the channel of the Rio Grande is 2,226 feet. 
 
 VOL. I. 13 
 
194 
 
 EL PASO AND 
 
 courts. The church and presidio are in a ruined state ; 
 they were, nevertheless, occupied by our troops for a 
 couple of years after the Mexican war. 
 
 Presidio of San Eleazario. 
 
 North of the town, after leaving Mr. Hart's mill 
 and rancho, which are near the dam, the first building is 
 White's Rancho or Frontera, eight miles above. There 
 is no valley or bottom land in all this distance, as the 
 mountain chain here crosses the river. Frontera was 
 used as an astronomical observatory by the Commis- 
 sion during its operations in this district. Soon after 
 we gave it up it was destroyed by the Apaches. It 
 has nothing as a position to recommend it. Above 
 this point the valley remains in its natural state. 
 Some lands were ploughed and sown in 1851 ; but the 
 
VALLEY OF THE RIO GRANDE. 195 
 
 water failed, and with it the crops. At Fort Fillmore, 
 about forty miles above El Paso, is the next settle- 
 ment. Between this and Frontera there is a broad 
 alluvial bottom of great richness, unsurpassed by the 
 Mesilla valley opposite, or any portion of the valley 
 of the Rio Grande. 
 
 The mountain chain through which the river has 
 here worked a passage, is but a spur of a higher 
 range, which, about two miles east of the river, rises 
 to the height of 1,500 feet. This range extends in a 
 northerly direction, but is not continuous. About 
 twenty miles to the north, it gradually drops off", . 
 leaving a passage of several miles, when it again rises 
 to a greater height, into the Sierra de los Organos, or 
 Organ Mountains, so named from their numerous pina- 
 cles, which, at a distance, resemble the pipes of an 
 organ. Both the Spaniards and the aborigines dis- 
 play a much better taste in the appellations given by 
 them to mountains, and other objects of natural 
 scenery, than is usually exhibited by our people. 
 Their names are significant of the appearance which 
 the mountain assumes, while ours are christened after 
 some military officer or politician, who may have 
 made a little noise in his day, but may have never 
 been near the locality which bears his name. The 
 portion near El Paso is without timber ; but the 
 Organ range, which abounds in deep gorges and 
 ravines, is covered with heavy pine forests to its very 
 summit. The valleys, too, and the rounded hills, 
 which are composed of the debris, present many 
 groves of oaks. On the opposite side of the river, 
 arising from the spurs or lesser chain, which connect 
 
196 EL PASO AND VALLEY OF THE RIO GRANDE. 
 
 it with the range on the eastern side, is another ele- 
 vated chain, much broken and very rugged. This is 
 without timber and quite barren. 
 
 Cactaceous plants abound on these mountain sides, 
 and on the spurs leading from them. The yucca, 
 Spanish bayonet, mezquit, larrea, and the various 
 plants peculiar to desert regions, and the great pla- 
 teau are found here. The lower spurs and intervening 
 valleys are, in many places, covered with grama grass. 
 The bottom lands are not grassy, as many suppose, but 
 are entirely bare, save in isolated spots ; hence it 
 is necessary to drive mules and cattle to these hills 
 and valleys to feed. There are, however, some por- 
 tions of the higher valley above Frontera where graz- 
 ing is to be found. 
 
 The height of the valley at El Paso was found 
 to be 3,800 feet above the level of the sea. At 
 Dona Ana, sixty miles above, on the river bottom, 
 4,060 feet. At Albuquerque, about two hundred and 
 fifty miles above El Paso, Dr. Wislizenus found the 
 elevation to be about one thousand feet higher ; and 
 supposing the circuitous course of the river through 
 this distance to amount to four hundred miles, the fall 
 of its water would be on an average two and a half 
 feet per mile. But the sinuosities bear a greater pro- 
 portion than this to the distance ; for, in a direct line 
 of about thirty miles from El Paso to the initial point, 
 surveyed by Mr. Radziminski, Principal Assistant Sur- 
 veyor of the Commission, the river was found to 
 measure a fraction less than ninety miles. 
 
EL PASO TO THE COPPER MINES. 197 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 EL PASO TO THE COPPER MINES. 
 
 Observations on the Eio Grande, from El Paso to Dona Ana — Establish- 
 ment of the Initial Point, and ceremonies connected therewith — 
 Description of Dona Ana — Mesilla — Eoute to Santa Barbara — Visit to 
 ruins — Mirage — Route to the River Mimbres — Luxuriant vegetation on 
 its banks — " Giant of the Mimbres " — Ojo Caliente — A broken arm — 
 Arrival at the Copper Mines — Description and history of the Mines — 
 Value of the timber in the vicinity — Abundance of game — Scarcity of 
 vegetables — Visit to Sonora projected. 
 
 April 19, 1851. The members of the Commission not 
 on duty, the Quarter-master and the Commissary, with 
 all that appertained to their departments, had already 
 taken their departure and established themselves at 
 the Copper Mines. Having made my arrangements to 
 move this morning, I took leave of my friends with 
 many regrets. I had now been at El Paso five months, 
 and departed with the intention of reaching the shores 
 of the Pacific before my return. A wild and barren 
 region lay before us, destitute of inhabitants save hos- 
 tile bands of Indians which roamed over the deserts or 
 hid themselves in the fastnesses of the mountains ; where 
 water was exceedingly scarce, where there was but lit- 
 tle sustenance for our animals, and where we could 
 expect no assistance in case our provisions fell short. 
 
198 EL PASO 
 
 Yet, with these prospects before us, I had every reason 
 to believe, if the officers we were waiting for should 
 soon present themselves, that by letting the surveying 
 parties at once take the field in various sections of the 
 work, we should be able to complete the survey of the 
 line which constitutes the southern boundary of New 
 Mexico, as well as of the River Gila to its junction 
 with the Colorado, and return to El Paso before win- 
 ter set in. 
 
 Our first stop was for an hour or two, at the astro- 
 nomical observatory at Frontera; soon after leaving 
 which, one of my mules was attacked with colic, 
 probably from eating green grass. This delayed us 
 for some time. Various inward remedies were resorted 
 to, without apparent effect, when the poor creature 
 was rolled and pounded by the ■ merciless teamsters, 
 until I thought there was no life in him ; nevertheless, 
 this rude treatment seemed to answer : for at length 
 we were enabled to drive him along. We continued 
 our journey, and encamped in the Alamos, or cotton 
 woods, twenty-eight miles from El Paso. After leaving 
 that town, the road winds over a wild, rugged, and 
 hilly country, for nearly eight miles. These hills are 
 the spurs of the mountain ranges, through which the 
 Rio Grande forces its passage. They consist chiefly of 
 limestone, which often appears above the surface, or 
 projects from the hill sides. Many organic remains 
 are here found. There is no bottom land for the entire 
 distance ; nor is there sufficient space by the river's 
 bank even for a road or mule path : consequently the 
 way is very difficult and tortuous until the hills are 
 passed. The bottom land does not appear for some 
 
TO THE COPPER MINES. 199 
 
 distance beyond the observatory or, White's Rancho. 
 The only vegetation on this barren district, is the 
 mezquit chapporal, the larrea Mexicana, wild sage, 
 yucca, and Spanish bayonet. In some places, are 
 patches of grama grass. On the immediate banks of 
 the river, are cotton-wood trees, but none elsewhere. 
 All Americans who visit this district, express their 
 surprise that the Mexicans, when they came out to 
 intercept the march of the American army, under 
 Colonel Doniphan, did not fortify this pass, and make 
 a stand here, instead of facing our troops on the open 
 plain at Bracito, a few miles beyond. 
 
 A large piece of bottom land has just been ploughed 
 up and put under cultivation, by Mr. Magoffin, about 
 twelve miles above Frontera, the only cultivated spot 
 between El Paso and Cruces, a distance of nearly fifty 
 miles. The first step to be taken in bringing these 
 lands under cultivation, is to dig a large ditch from 
 the river some distance above, and bring the water 
 through the land. This is always kept full, and to 
 make it available, the surface of the water should be 
 a,bove the level of the ground, and supported by 
 embankments. When it is required for irrigating 
 purposes, the bank is opened, and the water suffered 
 to overflow the land. The necessary canals were here 
 dug, the ground ploughed, and the seed put in ; but 
 unfortunately (as I afterward heard), the river did 
 not rise, the canals and ditches remained dry, no rain 
 fell, and the whole crop failed. The place was then 
 abandoned. Such is the uncertainty of crops in the^ 
 Rio Grande Valley. 
 
200 EL PASO 
 
 April 20th. Moved from camp at 7 o'clock, and 
 continued our journey along the bottom. Whenever 
 we approached the river, there were more trees, fine 
 groves of large cotton-wood, with occasional mezquit 
 marking the valley. The road is excellent, and con- 
 tinues so without any repairs, except after rains, when 
 it becomes almost impassible. At such times, wagons 
 pursue a course lying at a distance from the bottom, 
 and over the edge of the gravelly plateau, which is 
 never affected by rains. The soil of the whole valley 
 or bottom of the Rio Grande, is not surpassed for 
 fertility, in the world. One thing alone is lacking to 
 render it at all times productive, namely, water. For 
 the want of this, a large portion of this rich bottom is 
 ■destitute of grass, and has but little shrubbery. 
 
 Passed the small town of Cruces, a recently estab- 
 lished place, eight miles from Dona Ana, soon after, 
 where we soon arrived. As the train was still several 
 miles behind, I accepted the invitation of Captain 
 Buford of the Dragoons, to take up my quarters with 
 him. 
 
 April 23d Crossed the Rio Grande to the camp 
 of Mr. Salazar, the Astronomer of the Mexican Com- 
 mission, to learn if General Conde had arrived. After- 
 wards rode to the neighboring hills, across which the 
 line would pass, with the view of selecting a conspicu- 
 ous spot for a monument. The bank near the river 
 not being sufficiently elevated, I determined to place 
 a small monument with inscriptions there, and to erect 
 a large pyramidal one on a lofty conical-shaped hill, 
 which itself .appeared like an artificial structure at a 
 
TO THE COPPER MINES. 201 
 
 distance. The line passed directly over this, and a 
 monument upon it would be seen for a great distance 
 in every direction. 
 
 April 2<Lth. The day having arrived upon which 
 it was agreed that the Initial Point, where the southern 
 boundary of New Mexico intersects the Rio Grande, 
 should be established, the documents signed, and the 
 point marked, it seems proper that I should briefly 
 relate the history of this important portion of my duties 
 as Commissioner under the 5th Article of the Treaty of 
 Guadalupe Hidalgo. 
 
 Under the date of December 3d, 1850, 1 spoke of 
 the meetings of the Joint Commission, and of the 
 difficulties that lay in the way of a speedy agreement 
 as to the boundary between the Rio Grande and the 
 Gila, in consequence of two gross errors in the map to 
 which the Commissioners were confined by the treaty. 
 It was discovered that the Rio Grande was laid down 
 on this map, more than two degrees too far to the 
 eastward — the river, where it is intersected by the 
 southern boundary of New Mexico, being really in 
 106° 40' west longitude, instead of 104° 40'. The 
 other error was in the position of the town of El Paso, 
 which appears on this map to be but seven or eight 
 minutes below the 3 2d parallel, while its actual distance 
 is thirty minutes further south. After several meetings, 
 involving much discussion, the Joint Commission agreed 
 to fix the Initial Point on the Rio Grande at the latitude 
 given by the map, without any reference to its distance 
 from El Paso ; and to extend it westward from that 
 point three degrees, without reference to where the 
 line so prolonged should terminate. This being agreed 
 
202 EL PASO 
 
 upon, the acting Chief Astronomer, Lieutenant A. W. 
 Whipple, on the part of the United States, and Don 
 Jose Salazar, the Chief Astronomer on the part of 
 Mexico, were directed to "measure, according to 
 Disturn ell's Map, edition of 1847, the distance between 
 latitude 32° and the point where the Rio Grande strikes 
 the Southern Boundary of New Mexico ; and also the 
 length of the Southern Boundary line of New Mexico 
 from that point to its extreme western termination," 
 and to report the result of their examinations to the 
 Commissioners at the earliest period practicable. 
 
 At the meeting of the Commission held on the 25th 
 day of December, the following report was presented : 
 
 " In accordance with resolutions passed on the 20th 
 instant, at an official meeting of the United States and 
 Mexican Boundary Commissioners, we, the under- 
 signed, have this day met for the purpose therein 
 indicated. 
 
 " With a certified copy of the Treaty Map before 
 us, we proceeded to make a scale of minutes of latitude, 
 by dividing into 120 equal parts, the length of that 
 portion of a meridian laid down upon the map between 
 the parallels of 32° and 34° of north latitude. 
 
 " In a similar manner we found a scale of minutes 
 of longitude for that degree of latitude, which passes 
 through points of the Southern Boundary of New 
 Mexico, as indicated upon the same map. 
 
 " Then measuring the distance from the point 
 where the middle of the Rio Grande strikes the 
 Southern Boundary of New Mexico, south to the 
 parallel of latitude marked 32°, and applying it to our 
 scale of minutes of latitude, we found the length equal 
 
TO THE COPPER MINES. 203 
 
 to 22' of arc. This reduced by Francceur's tables, is 
 equal to 40,659 metres = 25£ English miles = 2192 
 Geographical miles. 
 
 " Finally, taking the distance from the point afore- 
 said to the extreme Western limit of the Southern 
 Boundary of New Mexico, and applying this distance 
 to our scale of minutes of arc in longitude, we found it 
 to be 3° ; which in this latitude, according to tables 
 of Francoeur is equal to 2822202 metres = 17528 
 English miles = 15414 Geographical miles. 
 
 ' ' Therefore, according to this determination, the 
 point where the middle of the Rio Grande strikes the 
 Southern Boundary of New Mexico, is 22' of arc north 
 of the parallel of latitude marked 32° upon the map. 
 From the same point thence the Southern Boundary 
 of New Mexico extends 3° to its Western termina- 
 tion. 
 
 "Signed, A. W. WHIPPLE, 
 
 " Lieut. U. S. Topographical Engineers, 
 JOSE SALAZAR 
 Y Larregui. 
 
 '•< Paso del Norte, December 23d, 1850." 
 
 The Astronomers were now directed to determine 
 the point referred to by astronomical observation ; and 
 as soon as the weather permitted, they entered on the 
 performance of their duties. On the 10th of April, 
 Lieut. Whipple informed me that Mr. Salazar and him- 
 self had agreed upon a point on the Rio Grande, the 
 result of nearly five hundred observations on eleven 
 stars, which they recommended to the Joint Commis- 
 
204 EL PASO 
 
 sion, to be adopted as the boundary point, at 32° 22' 
 north latitude. 
 
 The Joint Commission therefore met at the place 
 referred to, to • ' establish the point where (according 
 to the fifth Article of the Treaty), in the Boundary 
 between the two Republics, the Rio Bravo or Grande, 
 strikes the Southern Boundary of New Mexico." At 
 this time the Surveyor, Mr. A. B. Gray, had not arrived, 
 although fourteen months since the time of the 
 adjournment in California, and five months after the 
 time agreed upon for the meeting at El Paso. I then 
 proposed to General Conde the Mexican Commissioner, 
 that Lieutenant Whipple should officiate, as Principal 
 Surveyor until the arrival of Mr. Gray. To this ar- 
 rangement General Conde signified his assent ; where- 
 upon I addressed the following note to Lieutenant 
 Whipple, whose camp was then near mine. 
 
 " In Camp, near the Initial Point, 
 April 23, 1851. 
 
 " Dear Sir : The fifth Article of the Treaty of Gua- 
 dalupe Hidalgo, requires that the two Governments 
 shall each appoint a Commissioner and a Surveyor, to 
 run and mark the boundary line between the two Re- 
 publics. 
 
 " The Surveyor in behalf of the United States has 
 not arrived ; and having received no advice from him, 
 it is impossible to conjecture when he will be here. 
 The present is the most propitious period of the year 
 for field duty ; every thing is in readiness for continu- 
 ing the operations connected with the survey, and the 
 Mexican Commissioner is urgent to have the business 
 proceeded with. 
 
TO THE COPPER MINES. 205 
 
 " Under these circumstances, being unwilling that 
 any blame should attach to the United States, by a de- 
 lay in the proceedings of the Joint Commission, I have 
 thought proper, by and with the consent of the Mex- 
 ican Commissioner, to designate you to act as Surveyor 
 during the temporary absence of A. B-. Gray, Esq. 
 You are therefore requested to be present at the spot 
 fixed upon for the Initial Point, to take part in the 
 ceremonies as acting Surveyor. 
 
 " I am very respectfully, 
 
 " Your obedient servant, 
 
 " JOHN R. BARTLETT, 
 
 " Commissioner U. S. Mexican Boundary Survey.™ 
 " To Lieut. A. W. Whipple, Topog. Engineers, 
 
 " Acting Chief Astronomer, U. S. B. Com'n. 
 
 " In Camp, near Initial Point, New Mexico." 
 
 Lieutenant Whipple immediately complied with 
 my request, and the Commission proceeded to the 
 place which had been designated by the Astronomers 
 as the Initial Point on the Rio Grande, escorted by 
 Captain Buford of the 1st Dragoons, with his com- 
 pany. 
 
 We found General Conde with the Mexican Com- 
 mission, the civil authorities of El Paso, and a body of 
 Lancers already on the ground awaiting our arrival. 
 The Joint Commission then held a meeting to agree 
 upon the order of ceremonies to be observed on the 
 occasion ; after which we assembled around the spot 
 which was to be marked, where a post had been 
 
206 EL PASO 
 
 planted, and a small excavation made. The document, 
 of which the following is a copy, confirmatory of these 
 proceedings, was read aloud in English and in Spanish, 
 by the Secretaries, after which it was signed by the 
 Commissioners and Surveyors of the two Commissions, 
 and witnessed by the Secretaries and other individuals 
 who had been invited to be present for the purpose. 
 It was then placed in a bottle, with a list of the mem- 
 bers of the Commission, and a fragment of the Wash- 
 ington Monument, and was sealed up and deposited at 
 the place designated. 
 
 COPY OF DOCUMENT. 
 
 "Be it remembered, that on the twenty-fourth day 
 of April, in the year of our Lord, one thousand eight 
 hundred and fifty-one, the Commissioners and Survey- 
 ors, on behalf of the United States and of Mexico, 
 named to run the Boundary Line between the two Re- 
 publics in conformity with the Treaty of Peace, dated 
 at the city of Guadalupe Hidalgo, on the second day of 
 February, one thousand eight hundred and forty-eight, 
 and exchanged at the city of Queretaro, on the thirteenth 
 day of May of the same year, being fully satisfied with 
 the operations made, and the results obtained, by the 
 Chief Astronomers of the two Commissions, do estab- 
 lish this point, on the right bank of the River Bravo, 
 or Grande del Norte, in 32° 22' north latitude, which 
 in accordance with the provisions of the fifth Article of 
 said Treaty, is ' the point where it [the said river 
 Bravo or Grande del Norte] strikes the Southern 
 Boundary of New Mexico ' 
 
TO THE COPPER MINES. 207 
 
 " Be it likewise remembered that the distance 
 from this point to the centre of the bed where now 
 actually runs the River, in the direction of the same 
 parallel, is (219 m 4) two hundred and nineteen metres, 
 and four tenths, following the line east from said 
 point. 
 
 " For the greater solemnity of this act, appear as 
 witnesses, on the part of the United States, Captain 
 Abraham Buford, of the First Dragoons, and Colonel 
 Charles A. Hoppin, Aid-de-Camp to His Excellency 
 James L. Calhoun, Governor of New Mexico : And on 
 the part of Mexico, Mr. B. Juan Jose Sanchez, Politi- 
 cal Chief of the Canton of Bravos, in the State of Chi- 
 huahua, as first authority of that place. 
 
 "Written in duplicate, in English and Spanish, and 
 sealed, at the point established, on the day of the 
 month and year aforesaid. 
 
 "Pedro Garcia Conde, Commissioner. 
 
 " John Russell Bartlett, Commissioner. 
 
 " Jose Salazar Y Larregui, Surveyor. 
 
 "A. W. Whipple, Tojpog. Engr. Surveyor 
 and Astronomer.'''' 
 
 " Signed in presence of 
 
 " Thomas H. Webb, Secretary. 
 
 " Juan Jose Sanchez. 
 
 "Francisco Jimenez, Secretary. 
 
 " A. Buford, Bvt. Capt. 1st Dragoons. 
 
 "Charles A. Hoppin, Aid-de-Camp to Governor Calhoun of New 
 Mexico? 
 
 Immediately after the Initial Point had thus been 
 established, a plan was submitted by the Chief Astro- 
 nomers and Surveyors of the two Commissions to carry 
 
208 EL PASO 
 
 on the work and mark the line. This was accepted ; 
 parties were at once organized, and the survey was 
 commenced two days after. 
 
 I have thought it proper, in this my personal nar- 
 rative, to relate briefly the principal events which con- 
 stituted the main objects of the Commission, and, in 
 so doing, to give the particulars connected with the 
 establishment of the initial point on the Rio Grande 
 and the southern boundary of New Mexico. In so 
 doing I have spoken merely of the mode of determin- 
 ing this boundary, without, in any manner, going into 
 the argument as to its conformity with the treaty. My 
 readers can be the judges of this. My defence of the 
 point and line established, with the argument of Mr. 
 Gray in opposition to them, was presented to the Hon. 
 Alexander H. H. Stuart, Secretary of the Interior, on 
 the 7th of February, 1853, on my return from the Sur- 
 vey, and ordered by the Senate to be printed. This 
 forms Senate Executive Document No. 41. 32d Con- 
 gress, 2d Session. 
 
 After the establishment of this important point, I 
 immediately made known the particulars connected 
 with it to the Honorable Secretary of the Interior. 
 (See my despatch, No. 15, Senate Document No. 119. 
 3 2d Congress, 1st Session, p. 406, which I append.)* 
 
 * (J. R. Bartlett to Mr. Secretary Stuart.) 
 
 Mexican Boundary Commission, 
 
 San Rita del Cobre New Mexico, 
 [No. 15.] May 10th, 1851. 
 
 Sir : In my last dispatch, bearing date the 14th ultimo, I had the 
 honor of advising you of the movements of Acting Chief Astronomer 
 
TO THE COPPER MINES. 209 
 
 In order to snow the views of the government with 
 respect to my proceedings, particularly with reference 
 to the appointment of Lieutenant Whipple as Surveyor 
 
 Lieutenant A. W. Whipple, preliminary to the establishment of the 
 initial point of the boundary line on the Rio Grande. 
 
 The Chief Astronomers of the two Commissions having mutually 
 agreed upon and advised the Commissioners of the spot where, according 
 to the results of their united observations, the point should be fixed, the 
 joint Commission met at the place on the 24th ultimo, for the purpose 
 of examining and ratifying the proceedings of said astronomers, should 
 they be satisfied with regard to their accuracy. 
 
 According to the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, the presence of the 
 Chief Surveyors is required on this occasion. The absence of Mr. A. B. 
 Gray placed me in a very delicate position, which was rendered still 
 more perplexing by the fact that the same treaty distinctly declares that 
 the Chief Surveyor (no less than the Commissioner) shall be appointed 
 by the government ; and no provisions are made for contingencies like 
 the present one ; nor have I been clothed with power to appoint an 
 individual to act temporarily as Surveyor. The difficulty was stated to 
 the Mexican Commissioner, who, in reply, observed, that all the neces- 
 sary arrangements on his part had been made to go forward with the 
 survey at once, and he trusted that it would be proceeded with accord- 
 ingly. Being unwilling that any obstacles in my power to remove 
 should impede the progress of this important business, I did not 
 hesitate to make known my readiness to assume the responsibility of 
 designating some one to act in the room of Mr. Gray for the time- 
 being, provided the Mexican Commissioner, in behalf of his government,., 
 would consent to the course, and thus prevent or obviate any supposed; 
 cause of complaint by that Republic hereafter. General Conde assent- 
 ing to the proposition, I designated Lieutenant A. W. Whipple as Act- 
 ing Chief Surveyor. 
 
 The Commissioner and Surveyor having visited the spot, designated 
 and examined the observations made, conferred together, and being, 
 satisfied with the proceedings of the astronomers, ratified their decision,,. 
 and announced in the presence of the assemblage collected on. the- 
 occasion, that they then and there established the Initial Point of that" 
 vol. I. — 14 
 
210 EL PASO 
 
 ad interim, and that the work should not be delayed 
 in consequence of Mr. Gray's absence, I also append a 
 copy of a letter addressed by Mr. Secretary Stuart to 
 the Honorable Daniel Webster on this subject.* 
 
 portion of the boundary between the United States and the Republic 
 of Mexico, which at 32° 22' north latitude, is to run westward 3° 
 along the whole southern boundary of New Mexico. 
 
 And as a further evidence of the decision made, and arguments 
 entered into by the authorities representing and acting in behalf of the 
 two Republics, they then deposited at the spot whereon the initial point 
 monument is to be erected, a glass vessel containing a copy, in Spanish 
 and English, of the accompanying document, duly signed, sealed, and 
 witnessed. 
 
 I have the honor to be 
 
 Your most obedient servant, 
 
 JOHN R. BARTLETT, 
 
 Commissioner. 
 To the Hon. Alex. H. H. Stuari, 
 
 Secretary of the Interior, 
 Washington. 
 
 * [Letter from the Hon. Alex. H.H. Stuart to the Hon. Daniel Webster.) 
 
 Department of the Interior, 
 
 February 11, 1852. 
 
 Sir : I have the honor to acknowledge the receipt of your letter of 
 the 2d instant, referring to this Department, a communication addressed 
 to you in January, 1852, by Jose Gonzales de la Vega, Charge d Af- 
 faires ad interim of the Republic of Mexico, and complaining of the 
 delays which have occurred in the progress of the work connected with 
 the Mexican Boundary Survey. In reply to the communication of M. 
 de la Vega, I have to state, that while it is to be regretted that any delay 
 has occurred in the vigorous prosecution of the survey of the boundary 
 between the two Republics, every thing has been done by this Depart- 
 ment with the view to a prompt, energetic, and harmonious action on 
 the part of the officers of the respective governments, in order that the 
 
TO THE COPPER MINES. 211 
 
 Dona Ana is a small town of five or six hundred 
 inhabitants, and stands upon a spur of the plateau, 
 fifty or sixty feet above the bottom lands, thereby 
 commanding a wide prospect of the adjacent country. 
 
 important work upon which they are engaged may be completed with- 
 out unnecessary interruption. 
 
 In reference to the appointment of Lieutenant Whipple as Surveyoi 
 ad interim on the part of the United States, to which M. de la Vega 
 refers, I will remark, that this appointment was necessary on account 
 of the protracted and dangerous illness of Mr. A. B. Gray, the Surveyor. 
 Lieutenant Whipple was recognized by this government as Surveyor ad 
 interim, and his official acts in that capacity were, by directions from 
 this Department to Mr. Gray, to be considered as binding on the latter 
 officer, who was instructed to perfect, by his signature, any documents 
 prepared requiring it. 
 
 The Department relieved Lieutenant Colonel Graham from duty as 
 Chief Astronomer of the Commission, and Lieutenant Colonel William 
 H. Emory was appointed to succeed him ; and as the interests of this 
 government seemed to require a diminution in the number of officers 
 on the part of the United States, to prevent, as far as practicable, unne- 
 cessary interruption in the progress of the Survey, and to place the 
 organization of the American Commission on a permanent footing, the 
 President also appointed Lieutenant Colonel Emory the Surveyor on 
 the part of the United States, under the 5th article of the Treaty of 
 Guadalupe Hidalgo, in the place of A. B. Gray, Esq., with instructions 
 to proceed at once to the scene of operations, and report to the Joint 
 Commission. 
 
 It is hoped that the Joint Commission will now proceed without 
 interruption to the close of their operations on the Survey, and that 
 nothing will transpire on either side to cause any delay in the early 
 settlement of the boundaries between the two Republics. 
 I am, Sir, &c, 
 
 ALEX. H. H. STUART, 
 
 Secretary. 
 Hon. Daniel Webster, 
 
 Secretary of State. 
 
 [Senate Ex. Document 119. 32d Congress, 1st Session, p. 124.] 
 
212 EL PASO 
 
 It has been settled but a few years, and was selected 
 on account of the broad and rich valley near, and the 
 facilities that existed for irrigating it. Its houses are 
 mostly of a class called jacals, i. e. built of upright 
 sticks, their interstices filled with mud, though a better 
 class of adobe buildings have just been erected along the 
 main street, for the occupation of the military, and for 
 places of business. The central position of Dona Ana, 
 and its fine lands, led to its selection for a military 
 post. At the time of my visit there were two com- 
 panies of United States troops here under the com- 
 mand of Major Shepard. 
 
 Six or eight miles below Dona Ana, on the oppo- 
 site side of the river, is the town of Mesilla, containing 
 between six and seven hundred inhabitants,* a place 
 which owes its origin to circumstances growing out of 
 the late war with Mexico. These circumstances it 
 may be proper to relate, as well as the origin of its 
 name. 
 
 Mesilla is the diminutive of the Spanish word mesa, 
 i. e., table, also table-land, or plateau, and is applied to 
 a lesser plateau in the valley of the Rio Grande, beneath 
 that of the great mesa or table-land, which extends for 
 several hundred miles in all directions from the Rio 
 Grande. It is situated on the western side of the Rio 
 Grande, about fifty miles above El Paso, in latitude 
 about 32 degrees 18 minutes north, and until the 
 year 1850 it was without an inhabitant. 
 
 Immediately preceding, and after the war with 
 
 * This was the population in March, 1851, as stated to me by the 
 authorities of El Paso. 
 
TO THE COPPER MINES. 213 
 
 Mexico, the Mexican population occupying the eastern 
 bank of the Rio Grande in Texas and New Mexico 
 were greatly annoyed by the encroachments of the 
 Americans, and by their determined efforts to despoil 
 them of their landed property. This was done by the 
 latter either settling among them, or in some instances 
 forcibly occupying their dwellings and cultivated 
 spots. In most cases, however, it was done by put- 
 ting "Texas head-rights " on their property. These 
 head-rights were grants issued by the State of Texas, 
 generally embracing 640 acres, or a mile square, 
 though they sometimes covered very large tracts. 
 They were issued to persons who had served in her 
 wars, like our military land warrants, and also to origi- 
 nal settlers. Such certificates are still bought and sold 
 in Texas. The owner of them may locate his land 
 where he pleases, unless previously occupied, or in 
 lawful possession of another. 
 
 With these land certificates, or "head-rights," 
 many Americans flocked to the valley of the Rio 
 Grande, and in repeated instances, located them on 
 property which for a century had been in the quiet 
 possession of the descendants of the old Spanish colo- 
 nists. The latter, to avoid litigation, and sometimes 
 in fear for their lives, abandoned their homes, and 
 sought a refuge on the Mexican side of the river. 
 Dona Ana, a modern town on the eastern bank of the 
 Rio Grande, being a desirable place, and moreover se- 
 lected by the United States for one of its military posts, 
 became an attractive point for speculators, and was in 
 consequence pounced upon by them, and covered by 
 the Texan land warrants. Whether the Mexican occu- 
 
214 EL PASO 
 
 pants of the town and lands adjacent were the lawful 
 owners or not it is needless to investigate ; it is suffi- 
 cient to say that they were the first settlers, and had 
 long been in undisturbed possession. They now be- 
 came alarmed. Litigations commenced. Some apply- 
 ing to the authorities of New Mexico, Texas, or the 
 United States, for protection. Failing to obtain it, 
 several hundred abandoned their property and homes 
 in despair, and sought an asylum in Mexican territory, 
 preferring the very uncertain protection they could 
 obtain there to remaining as citizens of the United 
 States. 
 
 With this resolution, a spot was selected on the op- 
 posite or western side of the river, six or eight miles 
 below Dona Ana, which, it was believed, would be 
 within the limits of Mexico. On the 1st March, 1850, 
 sixty Mexicans, with Don Rafael Ruelas at their head, 
 most of whom had been domiciled at Dona Ana, aban- 
 doned their homes on account of their many griev- 
 ances, and moved to the lands known as the Mesilla, 
 where they established themselves. To increase the 
 colony, the government of Mexico offered to give lands 
 to other actual settlers, which offer induced large num- 
 bers of dissatisfied Mexicans living in New Mexico and 
 in the small settlements along the Rio Grande, in 
 Texas, to remove there. More than half the popula- 
 tion of Dona Ana removed to Mesilla within a year. 
 
 When the boundary line was established in April, 
 1851, and it became certain that La Mesilla was south 
 of the boundary line, according to the treaty map, 
 their fears were removed, and a day was set apart for 
 public rejoicing. For the whole population had de- 
 
TO THE COPPER MINES. 215 
 
 termined to abandon the place if the boundary line had 
 run south of the village, and thus placed them under 
 the jurisdiction of New Mexico. The day came, and 
 the event was celebrated by firing of cannon and a 
 grand ball, which many from El Paso attended. After 
 this, the population continued to increase ; in October, 
 1852, the Prefect of El Paso estimated it at 1,900 
 souls. 
 
 Very few Americans ever settled there — in fact, 
 none but traders, and it is probable that there never 
 were twenty altogether. 
 
 The lands at La Mesilla are of precisely the same 
 character as other bottom lands, on the opposite bank 
 of the river, near Dona Ana and Cruces ; and in fact, 
 as far as the mountain pass above the town of El Paso. 
 
 April 27. Left Dona Ana at nine 9 a. m., accom- 
 panied by all the assistants, and others attached to the 
 Commission, except those whose aid was required by 
 Lieutenant Whipple in the duty he was about to enter 
 upon. My train consisted of twelve wagons, drawn 
 by five or six mules each, and my travelling carriage 
 with four mules. The assistants rode on horses or 
 mules. We continued on our course towards the 
 north, and soon struck the great Jornada del Muerto* 
 (Deadman's Journey), on the Santa Fe road, which we 
 followed for nine miles, when we turned off to San 
 Diego, the old fording place. There is no village nor 
 
 * Jornada, literally, means a day's journey ; but it does not seem to 
 be used, except there is a long reach, of desert country without water. 
 It therefore is applied to one or two days' journey. The Jornada del 
 Muerto is 90 miles across, without water, and of the most desert-like 
 character. 
 
216 EL PASO. 
 
 even a rancho here, although marked on the map as a 
 town. A great reddish bluff, composed of a conglo- 
 merate of jasper, quite detached from the adjacent 
 hills, lay on our left. As we descended into the val- 
 ley our eyes were gratified with the sight of trees and 
 shrubbery, and more grass than we had seen since 
 leaving El Paso. In fording the river, one of the 
 wagons, in consequence of diverging a little from the 
 proper course, got into a quicksand, and was near 
 being lost. Continued our course eight miles up the 
 stream, and encamped at half-past 5 p. m., in a beauti- 
 ful grove of cotton-woods, having made twenty-six 
 miles. There was excellent grass here, and in great 
 abundance. The wagons did not all get up until an 
 hour after, in consequence of the delay at the ford. A 
 train of wagons belonging to the Commission, in at- 
 tempting to cross a few weeks after, when the water 
 was somewhat higher, got into the quicksand. The 
 mules in struggling to free themselves, sank deeper ; 
 and before they could be extricated, all six were 
 drowned. 
 
 April 28. Moved from camp at 7 a. m., the road 
 continuing along the river bottom, close to a low range 
 of gravel hills, when we diverged to the north-west. 
 Thick groves of cotton-woods occurred at intervals, 
 and the whole valley was more or less wooded. The 
 young grass, and the deep foliage of the trees, were 
 refreshing to our eyes, which for five months had 
 gazed on little more than stunted mezquit bushes, and 
 the thorny cactus. From the water marks on the 
 trees, the river rises about four feet above its banks, 
 inundating the bottom lands to the base of the hills 
 
TO THE COPPER MINES. . 217 
 
 which border them, and rendering the valley impassa- 
 ble. There does not seem sufficient space to cany a 
 road over the hills, although there may be a practicable 
 route within, which was not visible to us. At 11 
 o'clock we reached a new settlement on the river's 
 bank, called Santa Barbara, where, finding excellent 
 grass, I determined to encamp. The road had been 
 quite sandy and rough the fourteen miles we had 
 come, and as the next water at the mule spring was 
 twenty miles distant, I thought it prudent to go no 
 farther. The settlement consisted of a few jacal or 
 stick houses, part of which were in the process of erec- 
 tion. A deep acequia was already opened, and large 
 fields of wheat and corn were now undergoing the 
 process of immersion. Acres were covered with 
 water ; and the soil is of so spongy a nature that we 
 found it impossible to cross these overflowed places 
 with the wagons, so deeply did the wheels sink into it. 
 Herds of cattle and goats ; half-naked Mexicans with 
 their hoes, peons hooting and yelling as they urged 
 on their oxen with their long-pointed poles ; and the 
 primitive wooden ploughs, turning up the virgin soil, 
 exhibited a scene of industry, *such as I had not before 
 witnessed in the valley of the Rio Grande. 
 
 We pitched our tents in a thick grove of large 
 cotton-woods, near which passed the acequia; while 
 on the opposite side was a pond or laguna, extending 
 a mile or more. As this body of water was not wider 
 than the river, and presented many sinuosities, I think 
 it must have been formerly the channel of the Rio 
 Grande ; for, like the Mississippi and other rivers 
 which flow through an alluvial soil, it is continually 
 
218 EL PASO 
 
 changing its bed, where great bends occur. The 
 laguna is now supplied by overflows from the river. 
 There were many wild fowl in it ; but its banks were 
 so open, that we could not approach the game. 
 
 April 29. Hearing that there were traces of an 
 ancient Indian settlement about half a mile distant, 
 Dr. Webb went over to examine it, while we were 
 getting ready to move. He found a good deal of 
 broken pottery, all of a fine texture. Some of it bore 
 traces of red, black, and brown colors. He also found 
 a stone mortar about eight inches in diameter. I have 
 since understood that this was the seat of one of the 
 earliest Spanish missions ; but it was abandoned more 
 than a century ago, and no traces remain but a few 
 heaps of crumbling adobes, which mark the site of its 
 dwellings. 
 
 Our course on leaving camp, was south of west. 
 After following the valley a couple of miles, we began 
 to ascend a range of high hills, over and through which, 
 the road wound for about twelve miles, before we 
 reached the highest level. In descending, the road 
 was hard and smooth as a turnpike, and so continued 
 until we reached our camping ground, at the foot of 
 the hills. To the south, at some fifty or sixty miles 
 distant, rose a high mountain, the intervening plain 
 presenting the most beautiful mirage I ever witnessed. 
 It seemed like the surface of a broad lake, the mountain 
 peaks standing detached, like so many islands rising 
 from the bed of its placid waters. If I had not known 
 that the region before me was a barren desert, I would 
 certainly have been deceived. 
 
 Reached Mule Spring at one o'clock. Estimated 
 
TO THE COPPER MINES. 
 
 219 
 
 distance travelled to-day, twenty-three miles. This 
 spring is in an arroyo or ravine, and contains but a few 
 barrels of water. Some ash and cotton-wood trees 
 mark its course from the mountains where it rises. 
 Colonel Craig, when he passed here with his command 
 a few months before, opened the spring and sunk a 
 barrel in it. The water is very good. In the rainy 
 season, this arroyo is probably filled with water, as the 
 trees and banks exhibit the marks of it. 
 
 Approach to Mule Spring. Picacho de Mimbres. 
 
 April 30th. On leaving Mule Spring, we turned 
 nearly south, with a range of mountains on our right. 
 This was directly out of the general course of our route, 
 which was to the north-west ; but there was no other 
 way to pass the mountains. The road was excellent, 
 and we traversed it rapidly, reaching Cooke's Spring, 
 twelve miles distant, at 11 o'clock, where we stopped 
 
220 EL PASO 
 
 to water. This spring forms a pool, some fifty feet 
 across, surrounded by rushes. The water is a little 
 brackish, but the grass in the vicinity is excellent. 
 Ascended a hill on the south, which was strewn with 
 fragments of chalcedony, of which some fine specimens 
 were collected. From this hill the Organ Mountains 
 were plainly seen, bearing a little south of east. 
 
 After waiting an hour to let the mules have the 
 benefit of the grass, we hitched up and passed through 
 the canon or mountain defile, in a south-westerly direc- 
 tion, for three miles. This pass was quite hilly and 
 stony, with some steep ravines to cross, but otherwise 
 attended with no difficulties for wagons. After passing 
 these mountains, our course was north-west for eight 
 miles, when we reached the summit of a high table-land 
 that lay before us. Here a wide view opened. The 
 east was bounded by the long range of mountains 
 which we had followed on the opposite side and crossed 
 in the morning, while on the west, the broad undula- 
 ting prairie was only here and there interrupted by 
 low conical-shaped hills. At the south and south-west, 
 detached mountains appeared abruptly springing from 
 the plain, with jagged and picturesque summits, some 
 of which must have been fifteen hundred feet in height. 
 In the clear blue atmosphere of this elevated plateau, 
 every object appeared with great distinctness, so that 
 mountains could be seen at a distance of more than a 
 hundred miles. 
 
 From the plateau we were traversing, we could 
 discern, far in the distance, a streak of dark green, 
 resembling a huge serpent. Far as the eye could 
 reach, this dark streak wound its way, now expanding 
 
TO THE COPPER MINES. 221 
 
 into the plain, and again contracting its dimensions 
 among the hills, until it finally lost itself in a high 
 range of mountains to the north. This was the long- 
 talked-of River Mimbres, the third stream we had seen 
 since passing the small water-courses which empty into 
 the Colorado, in our journey from San Antonio to El 
 Paso, the Pecos and the Rio Grande being the other 
 two. As we were now on the descent, with a smooth 
 road, my mules dashed off at full speed in advance of 
 the train, followed by the young men on horseback ; 
 for all were pretty well tired of the desert, and 
 longed to feast their eyes on running water again ; 
 and the ten miles which separated us from the bank 
 above the valley were soon passed over. 
 
 When we reached the verge of the hills which bound 
 the valley of the river, a sight truly refreshing present- 
 ed itself. The bottom for nearly a mile in width was 
 covered with verdure, such as we had not seen since 
 leaving the rich valleys near Fredericksburg, in Texas. 
 As we rode rapidly forward, we noticed a herd of 
 about twenty black-tailed deer quietly grazing on the 
 luxuriant grass of the valley. Disturbed in their soli- 
 tude by the rattling of the carriage and the tramping 
 of the horsemen, they dashed away over the plain in 
 single file, led by a large buck. We traced their 
 course for some distance, as they bounded over the 
 hills, until lost in the mountain ravines. Nearer the 
 river, other deer of the same species were seen brows- 
 ing upon the willows, which, in like manner, darted 
 off at our approach. 
 
 We pitched our tents beneath a grove of cotton- 
 wood trees, at a short distance from the river, when 
 
222 EL PASO 
 
 all hastened to taste its waters, and plunge into its cool 
 depths. Great was our disappointment, after the anti- 
 cipations we had indulged in, at finding nothing but a 
 diminutive stream from ten to twenty feet in width, 
 and in some places even less, which, east of the Mis- 
 sissippi, would hardly be designated with the name of 
 "creek." Nevertheless, it was welcomed by us as 
 heartily as the Ohio or Hudson would be by travel- 
 lers in more favored regions ; for it answered all our 
 wants. Its water was soft and delightful to the taste, 
 surpassing that of the Rio Grande. This stream has 
 never been traced to either of its terminations. It 
 rises in the mountains north-east of the Copper Mines, 
 and when full, empties into Lake Guzman, about one 
 hundred and thirty miles to the south ; but for several 
 months in the year it exists only in pools, or dries up 
 entirely after reaching the plains. When the survey- 
 ing parties crossed it six weeks later, about fifteen 
 miles lower down, they found it entirely dry. Another 
 feature, which is common to other streams in Mexico, 
 was noticed in the Mimbres, namely, its sudden disap- 
 pearance or sinking into the desert, and its re-appear- 
 ance some distance beyond. 
 
 May 1st In camp on the Mimbres. As our ani- 
 mals had been poorly fed since leaving El Paso, I deter- 
 mined to remain here to-day to give them the benefit 
 of the fine young grass. All the party seemed to 
 enjoy the relaxation ; and they sallied out after break- 
 fast, some in search of game, others of the picturesque. 
 For my part, I took the two together; for when I 
 went to the hills in search of game I carried my 
 sketch book with me, as it was only among the wooded 
 
TO THE COPPER MINES. 223 
 
 hills, the defiles, and the thick groves along the river 
 bottom, that game was to be found ; and there, too, 
 was the most picturesque landscape scenery, and the 
 best field for the exercise of my pencil. 
 
 I first walked down the stream about two miles to, 
 a thick grove of large cotton-woods. The bottom was 
 much contracted here ; nevertheless, it was thickly 
 wooded and forest-like. Ash and oaks were inter- 
 spersed among the cotton-woods. Saw many signs of 
 turkeys, but shot none myself. Some of the party 
 were more fortunate and brought in several. About 
 five miles north of our camp the river enters the hills, 
 and a little further up, is closely hemmed in by lofty 
 mountains. Noticed wild roses in great profusion, 
 also wild hops, and the Missouri currant. These, in 
 some portions of the valley, were so closely entangled 
 together that it was impossible for one to work his way 
 through. Found several old Indian encampments, 
 with their wigwams standing, and about them frag- 
 ments of pottery. Many well-marked Indian trails 
 followed the river on both sides, showing that it had 
 been, and probably is now, a great thoroughfare and 
 place of resort for the Apaches. 
 
 In the afternoon, Mr. Bausman, one of our most 
 indefatigable sportsmen, came in from a hunt, and 
 reported that he had seen-some remarkable rocks about 
 five miles up the river, to the north of our camp, which 
 were worth visiting. I immediately had my mule 
 saddled, buckled on my pistols, attached my rifle to 
 the pummel of the saddle, and taking my sketch book, 
 accompanied him to the place referred to, which was 
 about half a mile from the river on the western side. 
 
224 
 
 EL PASO 
 
 Arriving at the place, I found some singular masses of 
 sandstone standing detached from the adjacent hills, 
 one of them bearing a curious resemblance to a man. 
 My timid mule was much alarmed at the gigantic 
 object which stood before it, trembling from head to 
 foot. We therefore stopped a short distance from it 
 and hitched our animals to an oak which hid from view 
 the source of their terror. Around us stood these 
 singular isolated rocks, some appearing like castles, 
 others like single pedestals and columns. The one 
 resembling a human figure, which is shown in the 
 accompanying sketch, and which I christened the 
 " Giant of the Mimbres," measured but three feet in 
 its narrowest part near the ground ; while its upper 
 
 Sandstone rocks. Rio Mimbres. 
 
 portion must have been at least twelve feet through, 
 and its height about fifty. Others of equal height 
 stood near. All are disintegrated near the earth, and 
 
TO THE COPPER MINES. 225 
 
 are gradually crumbling away, several having already 
 fallen. When I had completed my sketch, we mounted 
 our mules, and hastened back to camp, which we did 
 not reach until some time after dark, my long absence 
 meanwhile causing much uneasiness. Several turkeys 
 were seen during our ride, and a couple shot. A 
 number of fish of the trout species were taken here. 
 
 May 2d. Crossed the Mimbres, and soon after 
 reached the level of the table-land, gradually ascend- 
 ing toward the high mountainous region wherein the 
 Copper Mines are situated. Having heard of the Ojo 
 caliente, a remarkable hot spring two miles from the 
 road, I determined to visit it, and accordingly struck 
 off the wagon road, accompanied by all who were 
 mounted. A ride of three or four miles brought us to 
 the spot. This spring lies within a crater-like opening, 
 twenty feet in diameter, on the top of a mound of tufa 
 about six hundred feet in circumference at its base, 
 and about thirty feet high, all of which seems to con- 
 sist of the deposits made by its waters. The tempera- 
 ture of the water was 125° Fahrenheit. Its surface was 
 some six or seven feet below the rim of the basin ; 
 and its depth I judged to be about the same. Dr. 
 Webb collected the gas which bubbled up from the 
 bottom, and found it to be neither hydrogen nor car- 
 bonic acid gas. He consequently judged it to be 
 atmospheric air. The water was not unpleasant to the 
 taste, and would be palatable if cooled. Lower down, 
 upon one side of the hill, a small spring burst out, and 
 at a short distance, where it collected in a pool, the 
 water was cool enough to bathe in ; but even there I 
 found it literally a hot bath. Mr. Thurber discovered 
 
 VOL. I. 15 
 
226 EL PASO 
 
 fresh water plants [algae] and insects flourishing in 
 water at this elevated temperature. 
 
 Just at the base of the hillock where the water 
 accumulates, is a cotton-wood tree and a few bushes, 
 where I hitched my mule before going up to the spring. 
 On returning to take her, I had loosened the lariat, 
 and was in the act of mounting, when the mule took 
 fright at something and rushed into the bushes. I 
 either fell or was dragged off, and at the same 
 time, the malicious beast struck out her hind legs, 
 and hit me on my left shoulder. Several rushed to 
 my aid, and my left arm was found to be injured. 
 After lying upon the ground a short time, I managed, 
 with assistance, to walk about two miles to the road, 
 where my carriage took me up. We were now about 
 eighteen miles from the Copper Mines, and the jolting 
 of the carriage pained me exceedingly ; but as no re- 
 lief could be got until we reached there, I pushed on 
 as fast as possible. We reached the Copper Mines at 
 3 o'clock, p. m. Colonel Craig gave me a warm wel- 
 come, and took me at once to his quarters, when I 
 immediately retired to my cot. 
 
 The following day my arm was examined by Doc- 
 tors Bigelow and Webb of the Commission, and Dr. 
 White of the army, who decided that there was a frac- 
 ture near the shoulder. The arm was much swollen 
 and discolored 
 
 I remained. an invalid, confined to my cot or chair 
 for two weeks, taking a little air towards the end of 
 the second week. During this time my excellent and 
 lamented friend, Colonel Craig, paid me great atten- 
 tion. He watched me with the care of a mother, get- 
 
TO THE COPPER MINES. 
 
 227 
 
 ting up frequently" at night to turn me in my bed, 
 which for the first week I was unable to accomplish 
 without assistance. This he preferred doing to my 
 having a servant in the room with us. 
 
 May 5th. General Conde, with the Mexican Commis- 
 sion, arrived to-day. After remaining three days, he 
 removed his camp to the banks of the Mimbres, where 
 he believed he would find sufficient grass for his animals. 
 
 Santa Rita del Cobre, as this place is called by the 
 Mexicans, was for about forty years an active mining 
 town. The workings were commenced in the year 
 1804, and proving very profitable, a population of 
 about 600 souls gathered around them in the small 
 
 Valley of the Copper Mines from the South. 
 
 open space which here exists encircled by lofty 
 mountains. The valley is so narrow here, as to afford 
 
228 EL PASO 
 
 only a plot of about a couple of acres for cultivation, 
 and that seems to have been used as a garden. The 
 hills around furnish excellent grazing for any number 
 of animals ; but for agricultural productions, the popu- 
 lation depended upon the cultivated districts at the 
 south, in the valley of the San Miguel or Casas 
 G-randes, from which they received regular supplies of 
 corn, flour, beans and other articles of subsistence. 
 These provisions and merchandise were taken to the 
 mines by large trains of wagons, either on private 
 account or on account of the establishment. There was 
 also a considerable trade carried on with the frontier 
 towns in Sonora. The nearest settlement was the Pre- 
 sidio of Janos, a frontier military post on the San Mi- 
 guel river, 150 miles off; though the trains with their 
 chief supplies were sent from the city of Chihuahua, 
 situated at a distance of 400 miles. The return trains 
 took back copper ore : this was afterwards sent to the 
 city of Mexico, where, owing to the superior quality of 
 the metal, it was used chiefly for coinage. It is said 
 that the owner had a contract with government to 
 deliver the copper there at 65 cents a pound, and that 
 sufficient gold was found in it to pay all the cost of 
 transportation. I do not doubt the truth of this state- 
 ment, as Mr. Courcier, who first worked the mine to 
 advantage, amassed a large fortune from it, and Mr. 
 McKnight, his successor, also found it very profitable. 
 In 1838, a large train from Chihuahua, with sup- 
 plies, was attacked and overcome by the Apaches in 
 the canon leading to the mines. Such of the contents 
 of the wagons as the savages wanted they took, as 
 well as the mules and horses, first giving each man 
 
TO THE COPPER MINES. 229 
 
 who accompanied the train a mule to carry him away. 
 At the same time they sent word to the inhabitants at 
 the Copper Mines, that they would allow no further 
 supplies to reach them, and, furthermore, would de- 
 stroy them whenever an opportunity offered. Thus 
 cut off from the means of support, and surrounded by 
 large warlike tribes, the people determined to abandon 
 the place. It had consequently remained unoccupied 
 ever since, until taken possession of by the Boundary 
 Commission in the present year, 1851. 
 
 Several deep shafts were sunk by the Mexicans in 
 the adjoining hills ; which, with the vast heaps and ex- 
 tensive excavations about them, show that an immense 
 deal of labor has been performed here. One of the largest 
 shafts has been filled up in consequence of the earth's 
 caving in ; as I was told by a Mexican in the employ 
 of the Commission, who said he had lived here when 
 the mines were worked. Others are obstructed by 
 water, which has accumulated near their entrances. 
 Some of the excavations are still accessible, and have 
 been explored by many. If it should again become 
 an object to work the mines, they might be cleared 
 without much labor. The rock is mostly felspar, and 
 the red oxide of copper, intermixed with native metal. 
 Large quantities of ore are deposited near the smelting- 
 house. 
 
 On entering these excavations, one sees the bright 
 veins of the sulphuret of copper penetrating the rock 
 in all directions, with here and there small masses of 
 native copper ; and it is evident that all the hills in 
 the vicinity are quite as rich as those which have been 
 opened, for the same indications appear on the surface. 
 
23U EL PASO 
 
 But until there is some other mode of transporting the 
 copper to market, than by wagons for a distance of 
 nearly a thousand miles, it will hardly pay to work 
 them. There is no longer a market in the city of Mex- 
 ico, as other mines have been found much nearer. It 
 now costs twenty cents a pound to transport goods 
 from the coast at Indianola ; but as the wagons go 
 down empty, the owners would, no doubt, be glad to 
 carry the copper at half price. Labor is cheap and 
 abundant in Mexico. At El Paso, Mexican laborers 
 could be had for 62^ cents a day, they finding them- 
 selves ; but men could doubtless be procured at even 
 a less price. They require only the most simple food ; 
 flour, beans, and a very little meat will satisfy their 
 wants. 
 
 The district about the Copper Mines might be 
 made to produce all the food needed for a mining 
 population. There is no valley or arable land close 
 to the mines; but eight miles to the eastward the 
 Mimbres winds its way through the mountains, and 
 has in many places a broad valley or bottom, which 
 could be easily irrigated, and made to produce large 
 crops. Hither we sent our cattle and mules, and in 
 the driest time found an abundance of grass and 
 water. Within two or three miles there are fine 
 valleys, where, I doubt not, corn might be grown 
 without irrigation, as is the case in some of the moun- 
 tainous districts of Mexico; for it often rains here, 
 when the plains below, but ten or fifteen miles distant, 
 are parched with drought. We were not prepared 
 to try the experiment ; but, from the appearance of 
 the soil, the richness of the grass, and general exube- 
 
TO THE COPPER MINES. 231 
 
 ranee of the vegetation, together with the moisture 
 which prevails in such mountainous regions, I have no 
 doubt the experiment would be successful. 
 
 We reached this district on the 2d of May. Vege- 
 tation was then forward, though there had been no 
 rain. But it must be remembered that during the 
 winter there is snow, and hence a good deal of 
 moisture in the earth when the spring opens. The 
 months of May and June were moderately warm. 
 On the third of July the first rain fell. It then came in 
 torrents, accompanied by hail, and lasted three or 
 four hours. Many of our adobe houses were deluged 
 with water, and the mountain sides exhibited cataracts 
 in every direction. The arroyo, which passes through 
 the village, and which furnishes barely water enough 
 for our party and the animals, became so much swol- 
 len as to render it difficult to cross; and by the time 
 it had received the numerous mountain torrents which 
 fall into it within a mile from our camp, it became 
 impassable for wagons, or even mules. The dry 
 gullies became rapid streams, five or six feet deep, and 
 sometimes fifty feet or more across. On this day, a 
 party in coming to the Copper Mines from the plain 
 below, where there had been no rain, found them- 
 selves suddenly in a region overflowing with water ; 
 so that their progress was arrested, and they were 
 obliged to wait until the flood had subsided. After 
 this we had occasional showers, during the months of 
 July and August. 
 
 The weather was not uncomfortably warm any day 
 while I was here ; indeed, on several occasions, directly 
 after rains, I found a fire quite agreeable. The party 
 
232 
 
 EL PASO 
 
 I left informed me, that early in October it became so 
 cold that fires were necessary every day. The height 
 of the little valley where the mines are was found to 
 be six thousand two hundred and fifty feet above the 
 level of the sea; and the height of the mountain, 
 which rises abruptly from it, and to which the name 
 of Ben Moore has been given, is eight thousand feet. 
 This mountain is the beginning of a range of bold, 
 rocky bluffs of trap, of a grayish hue, which extend 
 some twenty miles to the south, and gradually drop 
 off into the plain. On one side of this bluff, a portion 
 
 Canon leading to the Copper Mines, from the South. 
 
 of the rock is separated from the mountain, and stands 
 detached from it like a column. This mountain is a 
 
TO THE COPPER MINES. 233 
 
 perfect barrier to a direct road, or even a mule path, 
 across to Mule Spring, making a difference of thirty 
 miles in the distance to Dofia Ana. Below the mines 
 the columnar masses crown the summit of the hills 
 and mountains, often appearing like elevated castles. 
 The sides of these mountains are well wooded, as are 
 also the intervening valleys. 
 
 Gold is said to have been found here when the 
 mines were worked; and many stories are told of 
 large quantities that were buried when the place was 
 abandoned. About four miles distant, a deep shaft 
 had been sunk, where it was said a skin containing 
 more than five thousand dollars worth of gold had 
 been buried. Several men took their discharge here 
 for the purpose of clearing out the shaft and getting 
 the buried treasure. After several weeks labor, they 
 reached the bottom, and even dug some feet below ; 
 but their search was not rewarded with success. This 
 shaft was sunk about seventy feet below the surface. 
 Veins of gold were found, but not sufficient to pay the 
 cost of working ; and the spot was abandoned. I saw 
 many fine specimens of lead, and one of silver ore, 
 which were found in the vicinity ; but I did not visit 
 the localities. The Mexicans who had formerly 
 resided here assured me that the existence of silver 
 was known to many at the time ; but being in the 
 very heart of the Apache country, it could not be 
 worked. The Indian Chiefs also said they would show 
 me where there was plenty of gold, if I would accom- 
 pany them, but that they would not disclose the secret 
 to others. I told them we did not come to their coun- 
 try for gold, and declined their offer. Whether they 
 
234 EL PASO 
 
 really knew of any or not (and it is my belief that 
 they did), I thought it best not to put myself in their 
 hands, but to maintain the position I had taken from 
 the commencement ; namely, that our object was to 
 survey the boundary between the United States and 
 Mexico, the meaning of which they had been made 
 to fully comprehend. 
 
 But the great value of the Copper Mine region, 
 which extends from the Gila eastward about fifty 
 miles towards the Rio Grande, is in its fine forests of 
 timber. The principal trees are two species of ever- 
 green oaks; two cedars, one like our red cedar, the 
 other with a berry much larger, and several pines, 
 among them the Pinus edulis, or pinon pine. This 
 bears an edible nut, which is a favorite article of food 
 with the Indians. It is quite pleasant to the taste, 
 but is rather small and troublesome to eat. So rich a 
 timbered country does not exist between the Missis- 
 sippi valley and the Pacific, except in the mountainous 
 district of Upper California. Should a railway be con- 
 structed across the country south of the Gila, its timber 
 must be procured from this quarter. The value of 
 pine timber in this region can be appreciated when 
 I state, that there is not a single floor made of boards 
 or plank in the town of El Paso ; nor have I ever seen 
 one in any part of New Mexico, Chihuahua, or Sonora. 
 In El Paso, I was obliged to purchase a few hundred 
 feet for doors, tables, and various fittings, for which I 
 paid one hundred and seventy-five dollars a thousand. 
 For building purposes, therefore, this timber would 
 prove immensely valuable. 
 
 The buildings at the Copper Mines consist of a 
 
TO THE COPPER MINES. 
 
 235 
 
 u Presidio " or fort, which commands the approach 
 from the canon below. It is of a triangular form, each 
 side presenting a front of about 200 feet, with circular 
 towers on the corners. It is built of adobe, with 
 
 Presidio at the Copper Mines. 
 
 walls from three to four feet in thickness, and a single 
 opening on the eastern side. This building was in so 
 good a state of preservation on the arrival of Colonel 
 Craig, that in a few weeks he built up such walls as 
 had fallen, restored the roof, and made the whole ten- 
 antable for himself and his command, furnishing be- 
 sides store-rooms for all his provisions. There were 
 also some fifty or more adobe buildings, some of them 
 in good preservation, except the roofs, and others in a 
 state of complete ruin. The adobes were therefore 
 
236 EL PASO 
 
 taken from those in the worst condition to complete 
 the others, roofs were added, and comfortable habita- 
 tions made for the officers of the commission. 
 
 The hills and valleys abound in wild animals and 
 game of various kinds. The black-tail deer (Cervus 
 lewisii) and the ordinary species ((7. virginianus) are 
 very common. On the plains below are antelopes. Bears 
 are more numerous than in any region we have yet 
 been in. The grizzly, black, and brown varieties are 
 all found here ; and there was scarcely a day when 
 bear-meat was not served up at some of the messes. 
 The grizzly and brown are the largest, some having 
 been killed which weighed from seven to eight hun- 
 dred pounds. These are dangerous animals to ap- 
 proach, unless there are several persons in the party 
 well armed; and even then, it is well to have a place 
 of retreat in case of emergency. I have known a 
 grizzly bear to receive twelve rifle or pistol balls 
 before he fell ; though in one instance a huge animal 
 was brought down by a single shot from a well- 
 directed rifle, which passing though his entire length, 
 killed him instantly. Turkeys abound in this region 
 of a very large size. Quails too are found here ; but 
 they prefer the plains and valleys. While we re- 
 mained, our men employed in herding the mules and 
 cattle near the Mimbres, often brought us the fine trout 
 of that stream, so that our fare might be called sumptu- 
 ous in some respects. But it requires something more 
 than meat and game to satisfy the appetite and pre- 
 serve health and vigor, and we would willingly have 
 exchanged either or all of these luxuries for a few 
 vegetables. We had not tasted a potato for a year, 
 
TO THE COPPER MINES. 237 
 
 nor any other vegetables except a little wild asparagus 
 at El Paso. The want of this necessary article of food 
 was therefore sensibly felt, and some of the men 
 began to exhibit symptoms of scurvy. Among the 
 members of the Commission the cases were few and the 
 attacks slight ; but the soldiers exhibited twelve or 
 fifteen cases, since leaving the coast, some of them 
 very bad ones. We were well provided with such 
 anti-scorbutics as citric acid, vinegar, pickles, and 
 dried apples ; but they did not have the desired effect 
 upon the worst cases, though they doubtless prevented 
 the spread of the disease. Some plants were found by 
 Mr. Thurber, which proved very palatable, and were 
 eaten as long as they lasted with very good effect. 
 Doctor Bigelow, the Surgeon of the Commission, ad- 
 dressed me a letter on the subject of the scurvy, 
 urging upon me the necessity of procuring potatoes. 
 In consequence of this, Colonel Craig and myself sent 
 to Santa Fe, a distance of three hundred miles, for 
 them; but they were not to be had there. With the 
 exception of this disease, the best health was enjoyed 
 by every member of the Commission, during our stay 
 in the region of the Copper Mines. The surveying 
 party on duty on the plain, or desert, as it may with 
 more propriety be called, suffered more on account of 
 the intense heat to which they were exposed, and the 
 frequent want of water. In another respect they were 
 badly off, as it was impossible to take fresh meat with 
 them. My intention was to provide them with sheep, 
 which could obtain a subsistence on the short grass of 
 the plains or near the watering-places; but it was 
 necessary to send to New Mexico for them, and they 
 were not delivered in season. 
 
238 EL PASO 
 
 Unable to send any more parties into the field, in 
 consequence of the non-arrival of Colonel Graham, I 
 determined to make the most of my time by visiting 
 the frontiers of the State of Sonora. In this trip my 
 object was fourfold, viz. : 
 
 1. To ascertain from personal examination the con- 
 dition of the route known as " Cooke's road," from the 
 Rio Grande to the Pacific, and particularly that por- 
 tion of it leading to the River Gila ; in order to deter- 
 mine whether it was practicable to transport by it the 
 provisions needed for the parties engaged in surveying 
 this river. 
 
 2. To learn if any, and to what extent, supplies of 
 corn, flour, cattle, sheep, vegetables, &c, could be 
 furnished to the Commission ; and on what terms they 
 could be delivered here, or to the engineering parties 
 on the Gila. 
 
 3. To induce the people of that State to renew the 
 trade formerly carried on with the Copper Mines. 
 
 4. To obtain a supply of anti-scorbutics — i. <?., 
 vegetables and fruits, fresh or dry. 
 
 The protracted sojourn on the Gila, which the 
 surveying parties must necessarily make, would re- 
 quire so large a supply of provisions, and the risk and 
 expense of transportation by pack-mules would be so 
 great, that I believe it would tend greatly to the ad- 
 vantage of the Commission to convey the supplies as 
 far as possible by wagons. There is no road near 
 the Gila along its whole course, and that point of 
 Cooke's road where it strikes the river (midway be- 
 tween the Copper Mines and its junction with the 
 Colorado) would furnish a good and central location 
 for a depot of provisions. 
 
TO THE COPPER MINES. 239 
 
 Colonel Craig was as desirous as myself to ascer- 
 tain these facts, and to do all in his power to promote 
 the health and comfort of his men. We accordingly- 
 made arrangements to set out on this journey on Fri- 
 day the 16th May, I having so far recovered as to be 
 able to ride in my carriage, although my wounded 
 arm was still kept in bandages and firmly fastened to 
 my side. 
 
THIRD DIVISION. 
 
 JOURNEYS AND INCIDENTS IN SONORA. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 THE COPPER MINES TO AGUA PRIETA. 
 
 Spring at Pachetehu — Ojo de Vaca — Janos road — Col. Cooke's road — 
 Scarcity of water — Dry bed of a lake — Mirage — Desert region — Zool- 
 ogy of the plains — Guadalupe Pass — Difficulties — Bears — Discover foot- 
 prints of deserters from Copper Mines — Sycamore trees — Canon — 
 Luxuriant vegetation — Descend from the great plateau — Change of 
 climate — Ruined hacienda of San Bernardino — Wild cattle — Black 
 "Water Creek — Teamster attacked by a bull — Grave of an American 
 deserter. 
 
 May \§ih. The party for the journey to Sonora con- 
 sisted of Colonel Craig, with two teams of six mules ; 
 Dr. Webb, Messrs. Thurber, Moss, Cremony, Steele, 
 Bausman, Weems, Stewart and myself, also with two 
 teams of six mules. The wagons were nearly empty, 
 containing merely our tents, camp equipage, and pro- 
 visions. All were mounted on horses or mules except 
 myself; and I would have much preferred the same 
 mode of travelling, but my lame arm forbade it. Even 
 in the carriage the attempt seemed rather hazardous, 
 not knowing what the roads were, or indeed whether 
 
 VOL. I. 16 
 
242 THE COPPER MINES TO 
 
 such things existed at all in the interior parts of 
 Sonora. 
 
 We did not get off until noon, as it was my inten- 
 tion to go only as far as the first watering-place, called 
 Pachetehu* whither I had sent the wagons in advance 
 to await our arrival. We passed down the canon in 
 fine spirits, all being glad to get away from the dull 
 monotony of a stationary camp. The country was 
 much parched ; for no rain had yet fallen. After 
 leaving the canon we diverged towards the right, and 
 struck the old road leading to Janos, which had not 
 been passed by a wagon or any train for nearly four- 
 teen years. Yet the ruts were quite distinct on the 
 plain. In fact, some portions of it, where the water 
 had run, were washed out into deep gullies, rendering 
 it impassable for teams. At three o'clock reached 
 Pachetehu, a depression in the plain which, in addition 
 to a spring, received the waters after rains. I traced 
 the course of the waters for a couple of miles, marked 
 by rushes and little patches of willows, when it disap- 
 peared in the plain. The grass is abundant for some 
 fifteen or twenty rods on each side of this spring and 
 water-course; but there is no wood. Parties must 
 supply themselves with this before leaving the wooded 
 district. Distance from the Copper Mines, thirteen 
 miles. 
 
 May 17th Passed an uncomfortable night from the 
 effects of the jolting on my arm. Roused the cooks 
 at three o'clock ; got our breakfast before day ; and 
 by the time it was light enough to see, we had re- 
 
 * Pronounced Pa-che-te-hu, the last syllable strongly accented. 
 
AGUA PRIETA. 243 
 
 sumed our journey. Our course continued due south 
 on the Janos* road, over a bare and open plain. Not 
 a tree or shrub was to be seen in any direction ; a- few 
 straggling yuccas and cacti alone broke the monotony 
 of the plain. Grama grass was abundant, and, though 
 quite dry, and apparently not containing any nourish- 
 ment, was eagerly eaten by our animals. The country 
 consisted of an undulating prairie, with here and there 
 a solitary hill of a conical form rising from it. In the 
 far distance were visible short and isolated ridges of 
 mountains, with abrupt sides and jagged summits. 
 Passed a yucca of larger size than any we had seen. 
 Its trunk was about ten feet high ; from which arose 
 four stems of equal height, all crowned with clusters 
 of white flowers. Reached Ojode Vaca (Cow Spring), 
 at half past nine o'clock, distant from our camp nine- 
 teen miles ; where we turned out the animals to graze. 
 This spring is but a depression in the plain surrounded 
 by a couple of acres of grass, resembling an oasis in a 
 desert. Several holes had been dug here by passing 
 emigrants, in which the water had accumulated ; 
 though in some of them it had a disagreeable sulphu- 
 rous taste. Nevertheless, not knowing how soon 
 another opportunity would present itself, it was 
 thought best to fill our kegs. To the east of this 
 spring are three hills, of which the most easterly one 
 is the highest. The westerly one is crowned with 
 masses of granite. After waiting three hours for the 
 train to come up and the mules to graze, we proceeded 
 on our journey. 
 
 * Pronounced Ha-nos, the first syllable strongly accented. It is 
 sometimes spelt Yanos. 
 
244 THE COPPER MINES TO 
 
 At this spring, Colonel Cooke's road enters from 
 the east; it then takes a southwesterly course, which 
 we are to follow. The road we have pursued from the 
 Copper Mines continues south to Janos, and thence to 
 Chihuahua. It is the one taken by the California emi- 
 grants who come by the way of Santa Fe. It was 
 first opened by Colonel Cooke in his march with his 
 battalion, and train of wagons to California, in the fall 
 of 1846. He took this route by the advice of his 
 guides, though much out of his direct course, in 
 order to strike the old Spanish trail which leads from 
 Janos across a spur of the Sierra Madre, to the frontier 
 settlements in Sonora; because it was known that 
 water was to be found there, at convenient distances. 
 But the more direct route due west from Ojo de Vaca 
 was unexplored ; and Leroux, the guide of Colonel 
 Cooke, did not know whether water could be found on 
 it or not. Not wishing, therefore, to hazard the lives 
 of a large body of men by venturing upon an unknown 
 desert, he took the wiser course of striking the old 
 Janos road at the Guadalupe Pass. 
 
 Travelling rapidly over an excellent hard road, we 
 reached a pass in a range of hills shortly before sunset, 
 where Colonel Cooke marks down a small watercourse. 
 We were not more fortunate than he was, although 
 there were indications of water in the clumps of bushes, 
 and the numerous doves that were flitting about. 
 Several of the party searched for it up and down for a 
 mile on both sides of the road, but without success. 
 We then passed the hills and encamped on the plain 
 beyond. Passed the grave of a man whom we sup- 
 posed to be a California emigrant. His name was cut 
 
AGUA PRIETA. 245 
 
 with a knife on a rude board, supported by a heap of 
 stones. Antelopes were descried in abundance to-day 
 bounding over the plain. Of the feathered tribe, we 
 saw blackbirds, crows, hawks, the Carolina dove, quails, 
 meadow-larks, and a flock of what appeared to be black 
 plover ; but as they did not alight, and flew beyond 
 reach of my gun, I was unable to obtain a specimen. 
 
 May 18th. We routed the cooks at two o'clock, 
 breakfasted by moonlight, and were on the move be- 
 fore the first dawn of day. There being an uncer- 
 tainty about water, it was thought best to get over as 
 much ground as possible before the heat of the day. 
 As the road passed over an open plain, with short 
 grama grass and no bushes, and moreover led to a de- 
 pression in the mountain range, there was no difficulty 
 in keeping it. We continued rapidly down a gradual 
 descent of about twenty miles, with scarcely an undu- 
 lation. Not a tree or shrub was seen. After passing 
 to the west of a low range of hills, and crossing another 
 plain of about five miles, we entered the defile or 
 canon, when we reached a spot marked by Colonel 
 Cooke, where he found water for 50 animals. This 
 was a hole in a rock, a few feet to the left of the road, 
 where we found a few buckets of stagnant and brackish 
 water, so bad that most of the animals refused to drink 
 it. The poor creatures having travelled some thirty-six 
 miles since starting, made repeated trials to drink from 
 the uninviting pool before them, and as often turned 
 away in disgust. We rambled over the rocks, and 
 explored the ravines in this defile, where there were 
 many indications of running water, but none could be 
 found. 
 
246 THE COPPER MINES TO 
 
 Again we pushed on, having yet about fifteen 
 miles between us and the first place where there was a 
 certainty of finding water. Continuing a few miles 
 through this defile, which presented no difficulty for 
 our wagons, we emerged on the opposite plain, where 
 our eyes were greeted with the sight of a long white 
 streak, which we would have taken for a lake, had it 
 not been designated by Colonel Cooke, as Las Playas, 
 or the dry bed of a lake. Keeping on the same south- 
 easterly course, we still descended ; and as the road 
 was very smooth, we set the mules on a trot and rolled 
 over it at a pretty good pace, considering the long 
 distance we had come. At three o'clock we struck 
 the playas, which seemed to have an extent of twenty- 
 five or thirty miles from the north-west to the south- 
 east, the general course of the mountain ranges and 
 valleys in this region. The surface of this dry bed 
 was an indurated clay, so hard that the wheels of our 
 wagons scarcely made an impression. Its color was 
 nearly white. After rains, this basin, being surrounded 
 by high mountains, receives a large amount of water, 
 which seems to evaporate before vegetation gets a 
 foothold. From indications along its margin, and 
 from what I afterwards saw in other places, it never 
 could have contained more than two or three inches of 
 water in its deepest place. The width, where we 
 crossed, was about a mile and a half. As we were 
 midway across, a beautiful mirage suddenly presented 
 itself towards the south, which led us to believe that 
 the further end of the dry surface we were rolling 
 over, was in reality a body of water. Little clumps of 
 bushes arose from it like islands ; and the very grass 
 
AGUA PRIETA. 247 
 
 that grew on its banks was reflected from its imaginary 
 surface.* Some of our party could not be convinced 
 of the illusion, and rode off at full speed to quench 
 the thirst of their panting animals. We hardly knew 
 what course to take here ; but seeing some bright 
 green patches amid the vast plain of gray and parched 
 grass, we made directly for it ; and great was our joy 
 at finding several large holes, dug by parties who had 
 preceded us, which were filled to the brim with the 
 most delicious water. Near these we encamped. 
 
 The country passed over in the last three days is 
 barren and uninteresting in the extreme. As we 
 toiled across these sterile plains, where no tree offered 
 its friendly shade, the sun glowing fiercely, and the 
 wind hot from the parched earth, cracking the lips 
 and burning the eyes, the thought would keep sug- 
 gesting itself, Is this the land which we have pur- 
 chased, and are to survey and keep at such a cost? 
 As far as the eye can reach stretches one unbroken 
 waste, barren, wild, and worthless. For fifty-two long 
 
 * The well-known phenomenon of the mirage is called in Sanscrit 
 " the thirst of the gazelle." All objects appear to float in the air, while 
 their forms are reflected in the lower stratum of the atmosphere. At 
 such times the whole desert resembles a vast lake, whose surface undu- 
 lates like waves. Palm-trees, cattle, and camels sometimes appear invert- 
 ed in the horizon. In the French expedition to Egypt, this optical 
 illusion often nearly drove the faint and parched soldiers to distraction. 
 This phenomenon has been observed in all quarters of the world. The 
 ancients were also acquainted with the remarkable refraction of the 
 rays of light in the Libyan Desert. We find mention made in Diodorus 
 Siculus of strange illusive appearances, an African Fata Morgana, toge- 
 ther with still more extravagant explanations of the conglomeration of 
 the particles of air. Humboldt. Views of Nature, p. 137. 
 
248 THE COPPER MINES TO 
 
 miles we have traversed it without finding a drop of 
 water that our suffering beasts would drink ; nor has 
 there been grass enough since we left the copper mine 
 region for more than a small number of animals, such 
 as our own. 
 
 The few animals noticed seem to have partaken of 
 the wildness of the country they inhabit. An occa- 
 sional herd of antelopes is seen galloping in the dis- 
 tance, unapproachable by the hunter for the want of a 
 tree or shrub behind which he may advance. Lizards 
 of various hues and graceful shapes glide about with 
 inconceivable swiftness. A startled hare throws up 
 its long ears and bounds out of sight. The prairie 
 dog gives a shrill cry of warning to its fellows, and 
 drops into its burrow. The only things that do not 
 seem terror-stricken are the so-called horned frogs. 
 They, as if conscious of the security afforded by their 
 own hideous ugliness, sullenly remove themselves out 
 of the way of the horses' hoofs, and regard the passer 
 with malicious eye. The vegetable presents scarcely 
 more of interest than the animal world. The flowers 
 are almost entirely of that most unbecoming of all hues, 
 yellow — varying from sulphur color to orange — and 
 glaring in the bright sunlight. One becomes sickened 
 and disgusted with the ever-recurring sameness of 
 plain and mountain, plant and living thing. But if 
 the day's travel is tedious, it is almost compensated 
 by the glory of the night. In this clear dry atmos- 
 phere, without cloud or haze, moonlight and starlight 
 have a splendor of which dwellers upon the sea-side 
 cannot conceive. 
 
 Due north from our camp I noticed a range of lofty 
 
AGUA PRIETA. 249 
 
 mountains, eighty or a hundred miles distant, extend- 
 ing towards the west, which I suppose to be a continu- 
 ation of the copper mine range along the Gila. West 
 of this arose another and less distant range. To the 
 south was an uninterrupted plain, with no mountains, 
 or even a hill, visible. 
 
 May ldtli. The weather was very cold this morn- 
 ing ; ice was found in our camp buckets, and we 
 were all glad to wrap our blankets around us. After 
 following the edge of the dry lake for a mile, we 
 came to more springs and water holes, near which the 
 grass was excellent. From here our course was south- 
 west, directly for a pass in the mountains, known as 
 the Sierra de los Animos, about seven miles distant. 
 The road was good, the pass presented no difficulties, 
 and we soon reached the plain beyond, where we 
 turned more to the south. Three or four miles brought 
 us to the dry bed of a stream, where we stopped the 
 train, and traced its banks on both sides of the road 
 for more than a mile, without finding water. Before us 
 lay a broad valley, bounded on the west by a range 
 of high mountains ; and at some eight or ten miles dis- 
 tance I noticed a dark line of trees, with similar lines 
 intersecting it. This indicated a stream ; and four or 
 five miles more brought us to one of its tributaries. 
 But, alas ! it was but a dry bed, though fine, large 
 trees, with thick shrubbery, grew along its banks, 
 marking its course for miles. Again we stopped. 
 Dr. Webb took the rocky bed, determined to follow 
 it up, while I, with some others, struck across to a 
 clump of trees near the base of a mountain, the luxu- 
 riance of which gave promise of water. In this we 
 
250 THE COPPER MINES TO 
 
 were not disappointed : a walk of a mile brought us 
 to a fine spring, from which a rapid brook dashed 
 over the rocks, dispensing a refreshing coolness, 
 though it entirely disappeared within four hundred 
 yards. The grass being good here, we turned the 
 animals loose, and made a halt of three hours. 
 
 On resuming our journey, our course lay across a 
 plain, gradually descending towards a valley inter- 
 sected by several deep gullies, which led to the dry 
 bed of a stream. We followed this for some distance, 
 but found no water. Crossed two other beds of 
 streams also dry. On our right was a large grove of 
 oaks, which is noted on Colonel Cooke's map; and 
 about four miles after passing this, we struck the 
 source of the stream we had noticed so long on our 
 right, where we found the water standing in large pools. 
 Here we pitched our tents, and encamped for the 
 night, after a journey of thirty -two miles. 
 
 May 20th. Another cold morning, with ice in our 
 water buckets. Fires to warm ourselves were quite out 
 of the question, as not a particle of wood was to be 
 seen. For cooking purposes, we generally collected 
 a little where it could be found, and put it into the 
 wagons. Our course to-day was nearly south, over a 
 broad valley, from eight to ten miles across, hemmed 
 in on both sides by high ranges of mountains. So 
 level was this valley, and so luxuriant the grass, that 
 it resembled a vast meadow ; yet all its rich verdure 
 seemed wasted, for no animals appeared, except a few 
 antelopes and several dog-towns. In every other 
 instance where the prairie dogs were congregated, it 
 was on the most barren spots, far from water, where 
 
AGUA PRIETA. 251 
 
 the grass was short, and the soil hard and gravelly. 
 Here the soil was a rich black loam, as it appeared 
 where the little creatures had thrown it up, and the 
 grass was nibbled down to its roots. 
 
 After passing a small stream (where we caught 
 some curious water insects), our course lay direct for 
 the mountains, which gradually closed in upon us, until 
 we arrived by an easy ascent at the summit. Here we 
 struck the old road, leading in a southeasterly course 
 to Janos ; and here our real difficulties seemed to 
 begin. We had reached what appeared from the plain 
 below to be the apex of the ridge ; but we found our- 
 selves all at once surrounded by steep hills, steeper 
 and higher mountains, ravines, gullies, and frightful 
 canons. A wide and discouraging prospect was open 
 before us. First came an ocean of mountain peaks, if 
 I may so term them ; for, from the eminence on which 
 we stood, we overtopped the whole, looking down 
 upon them as in a birds-eye view. Beyond these, 
 looking to the west, arose other mountains, which gra- 
 dually receded from the view, until in the dim dis- 
 tance the horizon was bounded by a faint blue outline 
 of some range a hundred miles distant. Colonel 
 Cooke deserves great credit for this bold and successful 
 undertaking, which has not been sufficiently appreci- 
 ated by his countrymen. Here his whole command 
 was employed in opening this trail, and making it 
 passable. But, with all his labor, it is still a most diffi- 
 cult pass, and dangerous for loaded wagons. Although 
 ours were light, it required great caution to get 
 through. The first descent is down a long hill, where 
 the wheels have to be locked. Next the road passes 
 
252 THE COPPER MINES TO 
 
 down a chalky cliff, whose yielding surface crumbles 
 beneath the hoofs of the animals, making it necessary 
 not only to lock, but also to restrain the wagons with 
 ropes. After this it winds over peaks, the declivity 
 always greater than the ascent, until at length the 
 valley is reached. Our progress was slow and toil- 
 some. We were constantly obliged to assist the 
 wagons, by pushing them when going up, or hold- 
 ing back in their descent ; but the most dangerous 
 portions were when we had a sideling inclination to 
 contend with ; for here the wagons had to be supported 
 on one side, as well as held back. According to Colonel 
 Cooke the descent here is a thousand feet. A percepti- 
 ble change of climate was indicated by the vegetation : 
 besides the greater abundance of plants peculiar to a 
 warm country, a marked difference was observable in 
 the same species. Those plants which we saw on the 
 table-land just in bud, were, in the course of the 
 descent, seen in flower, and further down with matur- 
 ing fruit. 
 
 Two bears were observed to-day after entering the 
 defile ; they were so large as to be taken at first for 
 mules. When their real nature was discovered, seve- 
 ral of the horsemen gave chase, but without success ; 
 for Bruin gained on them at every leap, and soon dis- 
 appeared. All the hills and valleys are covered with 
 trees, chiefly live-oak and cedar ; and in every open 
 space there is excellent grass. 
 
 After four or five hours' hard tugging we reached 
 a small stream, where the road took a sudden turn to 
 the south, leading to a frightful canon. Here we came 
 to a stand, and waited for the wagons to come up. I 
 
AGUA PRIETA. 253 
 
 had walked the whole distance through this defile, 
 which is known as the Guadalupe Pass, reaching this 
 point in advance. When all had come up, both men and 
 animals were glad to hear the order to unhitch the 
 mules and encamp for the night, which we did near a 
 small rivulet, though our day's journey could hardly 
 have exceeded twelve miles. 
 
 For the last three days we have noticed the tracks 
 of several mules, all of which were shod, accompanied 
 by one man on foot. They appear to have been made 
 several months ago, at a time when the ground was 
 wet ; and as there has been no rain, it must have been 
 during the winter after a slight fall of snow. As the 
 Mexicans do not shoe their mules, we believed the 
 party to have been Americans ; and a close inspection 
 of the print made by the man on foot convinced Colonel 
 Craig that it was a soldier's shoe, and that the party 
 consisted of the seven deserters from his command who 
 left in February. They took with them but six mules, 
 so that the seventh had to go on foot. We had learned 
 that they had not reached Chihuahua ; and as they had 
 not been seen at the settlements on the Rio Grande, the 
 inference was, that they had set out for California. 
 These foot prints therefore were objects of interest to 
 us as we watched them from day to day. 
 
 The canon where we are now encamped, is filled 
 with walnut, oak, ash, and sycamore trees. The last 
 mentioned, is quite a different tree from that known by 
 the same name in the United States, and, if it would 
 bear our nothern winters, would make a fine addition 
 to our ornamental trees. Its leaves have a graceful 
 droop, the bark is almost pure white, very clear and 
 
254 THE COPPER MINES TO 
 
 smooth, and contrasts strongly with the foliage. The 
 fruit instead of being a solitary head, or " button ball," 
 like ours, is borne in large clusters of three or five, 
 strung upon a slender stem. The banks which over- 
 hang this defile are steep and rugged, and present as 
 great a variety of plants of the cactus family, as the 
 valley does of trees and shrubs. Besides the various 
 kinds seen on the plains, new ones were noticed here, 
 nearly all of them in flower. The beautiful yucca raised 
 its tall stems of white flowers, while the agave towering 
 above all, with its brilliant yellow blossoms, completed 
 the floral array of this wild and romantic pass. Fa- 
 tigued as I was with my hard day's walk, and my arm 
 still bound to my side, I did not wait for dinner, but 
 clambered up the bank, and seating myself beneath the 
 shade of a cedar, took two sketches of the place, one 
 of which looking south exhibits a singularly capped 
 rock, standing detached in the canon. 
 
 May 21st. A great change in the temperature of 
 the air, has accompanied our descent from the high 
 plains. The little stream on which we are encamped 
 flows west ; so that it is now evident we have crossed 
 the great dividing ridge, or central plateau which ex- 
 tends from north to south across the whole continent 
 of North America. 
 
 Closely hemmed in on both sides by overhanging 
 rocks, our route continued along the canon for five or 
 six miles, directly in, or near the bed of the stream, 
 each turn presenting some new scene of beauty and 
 grandeur. Tall sycamores filled the narrow space 
 between the walls of the defile, while flowering shrubs 
 shooting their slender branches from the recesses where 
 
AGUA PRIETA. 255 
 
 a little earth had given them a hold, formed a complete 
 canopy over our heads. The various cacti, the agave, 
 and the yucca also abounded, each nourishing in perfec- 
 tion, and, as it were, striving for the ascendency. To 
 these must be added the fouquiera, with its tall leafless 
 stems and its brilliant scarlet flowers, which shot forth 
 from every rocky crevice. 
 
 On emerging from the canon our road led up a high 
 hill where there was a level plateau, of a desert-like 
 character, about eight miles across, with an excellent 
 road, which brought us to the rich valley of San Ber- 
 nardino. Here was stretched out before us a level 
 patch of green, resembling a luxuriant meadow, some 
 eight or ten miles long, by one broad ; and directly 
 beyond, on a little spur of the plateau, lay the ruins of 
 the hacienda of San Bernardino. Crossing this valley 
 we stopped on the banks of a little stream, a tributary, 
 or one of the sources of the Huaqui, which passes within 
 a few rods of the ruins. As we approached, a flock of 
 herons arose from the water, alarmed at the unusual 
 invasion of their quiet haunt. One of them, whom 
 curiosity had prompted to leave his companions and 
 take a closer inspection of the intruders, fell a victim 
 to his boldness, and was added to our ornithological 
 collection. 
 
 San Bernardino is a collection of adobe buildings 
 in a ruined state, of which nothing but the walls re- 
 main. One of these buildings was about one hundred 
 feet square, with a court in the centre ; and adjoining 
 it were others with small apartments. The latter were 
 doubtless the dwellings of the peons and herdsmen. 
 The whole extending over a space of about two acres, 
 
256 THE COPPER MINES TO 
 
 was inclosed with a high wall of adobe, with regular 
 bastions for defence. Being elevated some twenty or 
 thirty feet above the valley, this hacienda commands a 
 fine view of the country around. Vast herds of cattle 
 were formerly raised here, but the frequent attacks of 
 the Apaches led to the abandonment of the place. 
 Some cattle which had strayed away and were not reco- 
 vered at the time, have greatly multiplied since, and 
 now roam over the plains and in the valleys, as wild and 
 more fierce than the buffalo. Colonel Cooke, in his 
 march to California, supplied his whole command with 
 beef from these herds ; and the passing emigrants des- 
 tined for that country, replenish their stores from the 
 same source. I saw a number of these cattle when 
 riding in advance of the party, but having only my 
 double-barrelled gun and my revolvers with me, did 
 not dare to shoot at them. These herds were small, 
 not more than six in each, led by a stately bull. A 
 wounded bull would be a serious antagonist, more so, I 
 have been told than a buffalo. This establishment was 
 abandoned about twenty years ago; since which time, 
 no attempt has been made to reoccupy it. Such seems 
 to be the case with all deserted places here ; a fatality 
 or superstitious dread hangs over them, and when they 
 have been left two or three years, they are not again 
 inhabited. 
 
 After watering our animals, and giving them a 
 couple of hours to feed on the rich grass here, we re- 
 sumed our journey, taking a westerly direction. The 
 road first entered a thick chapporal of mezquit through 
 which it continued four or five miles ; when we struck 
 for three mountains, in a line with each other from 
 
AGUA PRIETA. 257 
 
 east to west ; the last of a conical form, crowned by a 
 perpendicular mass of reddish rock, covered with 
 green and yellow moss. Here the country was ex- 
 ceedingly hilly and barren. For two or three miles 
 the vegetation was limited to a perfect forest of the 
 fouquieras j some of which grow to the height of 
 twenty feet, their leafless stems crowned with scarlet 
 flowers. I would have remained at San Bernardino 
 for the night, but expected to find water at the base 
 of these hills, as indicated by Colonel Cooke. We saw 
 many places where there had been water, and even a 
 running stream ; but all was dried up, and there was 
 no alternative but to push on some twelve or fourteen 
 miles to Black Water Creek, the Agua Prieta of the 
 Mexicans. Emerging from the hills we came upon an 
 open plain with an excellent road down a gradual de- 
 scent for about ten miles; and seeing before us the 
 bottom of the valley, with a line of bushes which I sup- 
 posed to mark the stream we were in search of, I hur- 
 ried on in advance of the wagons, in order to select a 
 good place for an encampment. A couple of hours 
 brought me to the spot, where to my great disappoint- 
 ment, I found only a dry ravine without a drop of 
 water; nor did it appear that there had been any 
 there for months. Rank grass and weeds had sprung 
 up in the bed where water had run, had come to ma- 
 turity, and shrunk away for the want of further nou- 
 rishment. Not a tree was near us, and every thing 
 around had a most forbidding aspect. For a mile be- 
 fore reaching this watercourse, we had noticed many 
 well-beaten trails of wild cattle, some of which were 
 quite fresh, and directed towards a common centre. 
 VOL. i. — 17 
 
258 THE COPPER MINES TO 
 
 A few miles in advance, following the road, I also per- 
 ceived a line of large cotton- woods. I hastened for- 
 ward in advance of the party, and when I reached the 
 spot, I directed Wells, my carriage driver, to look 
 around among the trees and bushes, whose luxuriance 
 indicated, their proximity to water. He had got but a 
 few rods when I heard him halloa, and soon after take 
 to a tree. His red flannel shirt had excited the ire of 
 a bull, which, with a herd of wild cattle, was browsing 
 among the bushes. But my party coming up at this 
 juncture, they all took to their heels in single file, the 
 bull leading the van, and were soon lost in the high 
 chapporal. We were again doomed to disappoint- 
 ment. No water was found. I now hastened back 
 with all speed to Black Water Creek, where the train 
 with the rest of the party had arrived. They were 
 pondering what to do in the dilemma. Their disap- 
 pointment being not less than my own. We had now 
 come about twenty-two miles from the last water, and 
 nearly forty from our last camping place in the Guada- 
 lupe Pass. So confident had we been on leaving San 
 Bernardino that we should find water at this place, if 
 not at two intermediate stations, that we had not taken 
 the trouble to fill our kegs. We always avoided carry- 
 ing kegs of water when not absolutely necessary, on 
 account of the weight, and the appearance of a river 
 on the map was a sufficient excuse for omitting to do 
 so at this time. For the same reason we had collected 
 no wood. The place where we had stopped was also 
 entirely destitute of grass, so that we had but a poor 
 prospect of a meal before us. Two of us had a little 
 water in our canteens ; we put this together, made a 
 
AGUA PRIETA. 259 
 
 fire with some buffalo chips, t. e., dried cattle dung, 
 and made a pot of coffee. It was now quite dark, and 
 too late to look further for water. The mules were, 
 therefore, fastened to the wagon wheels, and tongues, 
 without food ; when we, all fatigued and supperless ; 
 threw our blankets around us, and without pitching 
 our tents, crept beneath the wagons, and tried to for- 
 get our unpleasant situation in sleep. The bellowing 
 of bulls and the incessant yelping of the wolves occa- 
 sionally disturbed our slumbers ; nevertheless, we 
 obtained a refreshing night's repose. 
 
 Among the incidents of the day, the following 
 deserves mention. Shortly before we stopped the atten- 
 tion of the party was attracted by a glittering object, 
 a few rods from the road. On examination it proved 
 to be a highly polished bayonet ; and Colonel Craig 
 immediately recognized it as belonging to a U. S. army 
 musket. Further search disclosed a grave, which ap- 
 peared to have been scratched open by the wolves, and 
 the body carried off. A pair of soldier's pantaloons, 
 and part of a cotton sheet were also found near. There 
 was every reason to believe, therefore, that this was 
 the grave of an American soldier, and probably of one 
 of those who had deserted from the Copper Mines. 
 
 While jogging along to-day, a wolf passed by, 
 which I shot from my carriage door. Many antelopes 
 were also seen, but we were in too great a hurry to go 
 in pursuit of them. For the same reason none of the 
 wild cattle were shot. 
 
 May 22d. As soon as it was light, Colonel Craig, 
 Mr. Thurber, and others set offin search of water. They 
 took one of the fresh cattle trails ; and, after following 
 
260 THE COPPER MINES TO 
 
 it about two miles, they struck a fine spring, which we 
 afterwards learned was known to the Mexicans by the 
 name of Agua Prieta, or Black Water. To this place 
 we immediately moved the wagons, and encamped for 
 the day. 
 
AGUA PRIETA TO ARISPE. 261 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 AGUA PRIETA TO ARISPE. 
 
 Leave the California road — Agua Prieta — Send party to look for Fronteras 
 — Mexican soldiers sent to guide us in — Journey resumed — Strike 
 a rich valley — Break a wagon — Reach Fronteras — Description of the 
 place — Abandoned by its people and recolonized — General Oarrasco — 
 Couriers between the frontier posts — Attack by General Carrasco on 
 Apaches at Janos — Campaign against the Apaches — General Carrasco's 
 opinion of American officers — The Doctor beset by the sick — Leave 
 Fronteras — Coquiarachi — Valley of Barbari — Wild turkeys — Moun- 
 tain Pass — Gold Mine — Bacuachi — Sonora River — Magnificent canon 
 — Chinapi — Curious sandstone formation — Arrival at Arispe. 
 
 We had now reached the farthest point to which we 
 could follow the California road ; our destination being 
 Fronteras, the nearest town in Sonora, which is laid 
 down on Cooke's map as about fourteen miles to the 
 south, we must leave it here. But as no wagon road 
 or trail could be discovered in that direction, I did 
 not think it prudent to set off with our wagons with- 
 out knowing more about the country. Colonel Cooke 
 does not speak positively as to the distance of this 
 place, having obtained his information from an Indian. 
 I therefore despatched Messrs. Thurber, Cremony, and 
 Stewart to find the place, and ascertain if the country 
 between it and our camp was practicable for wagons. 
 They took with them as guide a Mexican, named 
 
262 AGUA PRIBTA TO 
 
 Jesus, one of our teamsters, who had visited the place 
 some years before by another route, and knew the 
 landmarks. This name is so common among Mexicans, 
 particularly the lower classes, that one can seldom get 
 half a dozen of them together without finding a Jesus 
 in the company. We had two of the name in the 
 Commission for a year ; both of whom, I am sorry to 
 say, proved entirely unworthy of it. 
 
 Remained quietly in our tents during the day, the 
 mules and horses feeding on the grass near by. Par- 
 ties went out in search of wild cattle, many having 
 been seen at daylight; but they all returned unsuc- 
 cessful. For lack of better sport, therefore, we amused 
 ourselves in firing at wolves which constantly ap- 
 proached the spring during the day ; only one how- 
 ever was killed. During the night heard the bellowing 
 of bulls in all directions. Several of our men were on 
 the alert, but the cattle doubtless scented the danger, 
 and would not approach. 
 
 May 23d At 6 o'clock this morning we espied 
 four strange looking figures dressed in white, ap- 
 proaching the camp on a run, which my glass showed 
 to be Mexicans. They proved to be a party from 
 Fronteras, sent by General Carrasco, the officer in 
 command ; they had left the night before at 8 o'clock, 
 and brought letters from the General and from Mr. 
 Thurber, who, with his party had reached there in 
 safety. General C. extended the hospitalities of the 
 place to us, and sent the four soldiers to be our guides. 
 Mr. Thurber wrote that his party had taken a southerly 
 direction across arroyos and through a dense chappo- 
 ral, starting up numbers of wild cattle, until near sun- 
 
ARISPE. 263 
 
 set, when they came in sight of the town. On drawing 
 near they observed the greatest commotion in the 
 place ; people were crowding in front of the church, 
 and upon the house tops, and the steep street which 
 led to the plaza, was thronged with women and chil- 
 dren. Their approach had been observed by the sen- 
 tinel on guard. He, supposing them to be Apaches, 
 gave the alarm ; and the consequence was, a general 
 turn out to repel the supposed attack. When the 
 mistake was corrected, their fear of the Apaches gave 
 place to wonder at los Americanos, these being the 
 first specimens of the Yankee nation that many of the 
 people had ever seen. 
 
 We now hurried in the mules, and, rapidly com- 
 pleting our preparation for the start, were off by 10 
 o'clock. Our course lay south towards the western 
 point of a high mountain. Our guides led us along a 
 valley through which ran the stream called Black 
 Water Creek, — that is to say, when there was water 
 enough in it to run. We found it here and there in 
 pools. The country was fiat, and covered with luxuriant 
 grass, resembling a meadow. Our course was slow, 
 being much impeded by deep gullies, some of which 
 had to be cut down to let the wagons cross. In pass- 
 ing one, where the bank was short and steep, the 
 hounds of one of Colonel Craig's wagons were broken 
 off. It was feared that we should be obliged to aban- 
 don the vehicle ; but thanks to the ingenuity of my 
 carriage driver, who spliced it with a crotched tree, we 
 were able to proceed after a couple of hours' delay. 
 These short and sudden plunges are more dangerous 
 than long or even steep hills, and require the utmost 
 
264 AGUA PRIETA TO 
 
 care in passing them. The tongues and hounds are 
 liable to snap off; and nothing so completely disables 
 a wagon as an accident of this kind. As we pro- 
 ceeded, the valley became more picturesque, being 
 covered at intervals with mezquit trees, larger than 
 any we had seen. In the afternoon we were again 
 brought to a stand, and on turning to ascertain the 
 cause, found that one of the tires of Colonel Craig's 
 wagon had fallen off. This was repaired in half an 
 hour by lashing it on with halter chains. As we 
 approached the mountain, we found ourselves in a 
 valley still more luxuriant, having a beautiful stream 
 winding through it, overhung with walnut, ash, and 
 cotton-wood trees. Finding it imposible after our 
 delay to reach Fronteras to-day, we stopped at five 
 o'clock near a fine grove, on the banks of the stream, 
 where there was excellent water and an abundance of 
 grass, and there pitched our tents for the night. 
 
 May 24:th. At six o' clock we were off, keeping in 
 the valley and following the stream which led around 
 the western extremity of the mountain called Covayan. 
 Our course still continuing south, we struck across an 
 elevation, and entered the valley beyond, here covered 
 with large cotton-wood trees. The road now continued 
 level ; and after a ride of four hours, we reached Fron- 
 teras. As we approached, men, women, and children 
 came out to meet us, ours being the first American 
 wagons that had ever been seen in the place. General 
 Carrasco met me as I alighted from my carriage, and 
 took me to his quarters. 
 
 Fronteras was formerly a town of considerable im- 
 portance. It was established about eighty years ago 
 
ARISPE. 
 
 265 
 
 as a presidio, or garrison, and at one time contained 
 two thousand inhabitants. The view of this town from 
 a distance is pleasing. It stands upon a point of table 
 land, which juts out into the valley like a promontory 
 
 Fronteras, Sonora, 
 
 in the sea. The church forms the prominent object in 
 the landscape, and its style is quite picturesque ; its 
 effect also is heightened by its somewhat ruined con- 
 dition. Along the steep sides of the hill, the houses 
 are placed, rising one above another, which makes the 
 place appear much larger than it really is. Once within 
 the town, one's ideas of the picturesque are soon dissi- 
 pated by the sight of its ruined adobe buildings ; though 
 he soon forgets the desolation around him in looking; 
 
266 AGUA PRIETA TO 
 
 upon the green fertile valley spread at his feet. Fron- 
 teras, like most of the military colonies, fell into decay, 
 chiefly from the neglect of the central government to 
 properly provide for the soldiery, in consequence of 
 which, the inhabitants were left without protection 
 from the attacks of the savages. To such an extent did 
 the place suffer from the incursions of the Apaches, 
 who killed off the herdsmen, drove the cultivators from 
 the fields, and took captive the women and children, 
 that about three years ago it was entirely abandoned. 
 Within six months General Carrasco has re-established 
 the colony, a new population, including many of its 
 former inhabitants, have taken possession, and in many 
 respects it appears like an old settled town. Acequias 
 have also been opened, large fields of wheat and corn 
 cover the beautiful valley, numerous cattle graze on 
 the meadows, and the importance which the place 
 once enjoyed seems about to return. 
 
 Fronteras is supported by a valley two miles in 
 width, which we entered about six miles from the town. 
 This space of arable land, limited as it is, is said to be 
 one of the largest and best in Sonora. The soil is ex- 
 ceedingly rich, and is capable of producing abundant 
 crops of maize and wheat (the only cereals cultivated), 
 fruits of various sorts, and, with pains, every kind of 
 vegetables. But here, as in all other parts of Mexico 
 that I have seen, this species of culture is but little 
 attended to. Beans, pumpkins, and onions are raised, 
 it is true, but all other vegetables are unknown. 
 
 A small stream passes by Fronteras, which, although 
 called a river, would scarcely be characterized as a 
 creek in the United States ; but all the streams here are 
 
ARISPB. 267 
 
 very small. This river winds its way through moun- 
 tains, and occasionally expands, forming a valley or 
 bottom covered with rank grass and luxuriant foliage. 
 It is here called Fronteras River, and like many other 
 streams in the country, changes its name with the towns 
 it passes. Lower down it is called the -Sonora River, 
 by which name I shall speak of it in future. 
 
 General Carrasco is at present in command of all the 
 troops on this frontier. He has increased the number 
 of posts, and keeps up a weekly communication between 
 them all by means of couriers, two of which, armed with 
 musket and lance, traverse the broad deserts, eluding 
 the Apaches, who are lying in wait for all small parties 
 of travellers. They perform most of their journeys at 
 night, and generally go on a trot, by which means they 
 accomplish nearly as much in a given time as a horse. 
 War in the field does not succeed against Indians, for 
 unless they feel strong enough to overcome their foe at 
 once, and with little loss, they retire and are not to be 
 found. The General has determined to carry the war 
 into their very fastnesses, and to make it one of exter- 
 mination. If his troops were equal to their commander, 
 the Apaches might have cause of fear. He lately made 
 a successful descent upon the Indians at Janos. This 
 place is in the State of Chihuahua, which is at peace 
 with the Indians, and whose government serves them 
 with rations. Taking advantage of this, they carry 
 their predatory excursions into the State of Sonora, 
 and run off large numbers of mules and horses, which 
 they take to the frontier towns of Chihuahua and sell. 
 General Carrasco, being informed of this, disregarded 
 the State limits, and came suddenly upon the town of 
 
268 AGUA PRIETA TO 
 
 Janos, near which he found a body of Indians, whom 
 he attacked and routed. Some twenty men were killed, 
 and fifty or sixty, chiefly women and children, were 
 taken prisoners. These were sent into the interior, and 
 there distributed among the haciendas and ranchos as 
 servants, too far off ever to reach their homes again. 
 The military commander, Colonel Medina, was much 
 enraged at the proceedings of the Sonorian General in 
 invading his territory, and reported the case to the 
 central government, which, however, approved of Car- 
 rasco's course. 
 
 When we entered the town, the General was just 
 preparing to set out on a campaign against the 
 Indians on the Gila; and his troops, nearly four hun- 
 dred in all, were assembling in front of the town. 
 There were three companies of infantry and one of 
 horse. Some were dressed in blue great coats and 
 high caps, and others in short jackets, while all wore 
 the common loose white cotton drawers and shirts of 
 the country. Many sported broad-brimmed glazed 
 hats, with a white band, while the hats of others were 
 of straw ; but in all cases these coverings were stuck 
 on the top of the head, and tied under the chin. 
 Every variety of costume seemed admissible ; and the 
 only point in which they all agreed was in being 
 exceedingly dirty. There was scarcely a pair of shoes 
 among them, the substitute being sandals of raw hide, 
 fastened with thongs of the same material. The offi- 
 cers in this corps, several of whom I learned were from 
 the city of Mexico, appeared to be intelligent men. 
 They were well dressed, and exhibited a striking 
 contrast with the privates. I also noticed among 
 
ARISPB. 269 
 
 the non-commissioned officers a sergeant, who was an 
 Apache Indian. This man had long been in the Mexi- 
 can service, where he was well treated. He exhibited 
 much intelligence, and being familiar with the haunts 
 of his people, was to guide the Mexican soldiers in 
 their campaign. 
 
 The camp equipage and simple fare of these sol- 
 diers presents a striking contrast with what an Ame- 
 rican brigade would deem necessary. Each man, be- 
 sides his musket, forty rounds of ammunition, and a 
 blanket, carries rations for six days, the daily ration 
 consisting of two pounds of pinole (coarse wheat or 
 Indiana meal) ; half a pound of dried beef, and half a 
 pound of panoche, the coarse brown sugar of the coun- 
 try. The beef is cooked on the coals before starting, 
 and the pinole requires no other preparation than stir- 
 ring with water, and sweetening with panoche. Cook- 
 ing utensils are, therefore, unnecessary, and a tin or 
 coarse earthen cup is all that is required. Every man 
 carries a sheath or jack-knife ; and even this may be 
 dispensed with, for the meat is dried in long strips, 
 and pulled to pieces with the teeth and fingers. Be- 
 sides what these soldiers carried, there were some sixty 
 pack mules, laden with camp equipage for the officers, 
 tents, ammunition, provisions, and corn, a very small 
 train for a body of four hundred men, about to traverse 
 a desert country, where no supplies could be procured. 
 
 The inhabitants just now are very poor, as they 
 have not yet begun to realize any thing from their 
 crops. Estimating their returns at the usual rate, 
 they expect to obtain about twelve thousand bushels 
 of corn and wheat the coming harvest. For their pre- 
 
270 AGUA PEIETA TO 
 
 sent subsistence they rely entirely upon dried meat 
 from the wild cattle, and pinole. Not a particle of 
 coffee, chocolate, or rice was to be obtained in the 
 place. On my making known to General Carrasco 
 that I wished to purchase some beef and corn, he 
 ordered an ox to be killed and sent to our camp in 
 the morning, together with a bale containing a hun- 
 dred pounds of dried beef, and eight or ten bags of 
 corn, for none of which would he receive any pay. 
 During the hour or two spent at his quarters he 
 entered into a warm discussion with Colonel Craig on 
 the battles in which the Mexican and American armies 
 had been engaged in the late war, in several of which 
 he had participated, and respecting all of which he 
 was very well informed. He seemed to understand 
 well the qualities of our general officers, and expressed 
 the most unbounded admiration for several, particu- 
 larly the Commander-in-Chief. He did not approve of 
 the plan of making General Scott President ; but said 
 the United States should present him with three mil- 
 lions of dollars, and give him the mission to England 
 or France. 
 
 Our camp was below the hill, about a quarter of a 
 mile from the town, beneath the branches of a gigan- 
 tic cotton-wood. Here we were detained four days, 
 to make the necessary repairs on Colonel Craig's 
 wagons. The first day little was done. The next 
 being Sunday, the mechanics would not work at all, 
 even with promises of large pay ; yet they sang, and 
 danced, and drank aguardiente all the afternoon and 
 evening. On Monday our men took hold of the job, 
 and by Tuesday night the wagons were in readiness 
 
ARISPE. 271 
 
 to move. The people of the place, for want of other 
 employment, hung about our camp from morning to 
 night, though the cooking department seemed to pos- 
 sess the greatest attraction for them. Men, women, 
 and children crowded around the presiding function- 
 ary, for the double purpose of cultivating a knowledge 
 of the culinary art and of picking up such scraps as he 
 thought proper to bestow upon them. Their own 
 cooking is all done in earthen vessels ; and the abun- 
 dance of iron utensils with which we were furnished 
 seemed to impress them with the idea of our great 
 wealth. The doctor, too, was beset by these people. 
 Their complaints were chiefly diseases of the eyes, and 
 such others as result from improper food and unclean 
 habits. The doctor accompanied his medicine with a 
 lecture on that virtue which ranks next to godliness, 
 and the necessity of employing their time in industrial 
 pursuits, and of obtaining by their own energies the 
 comforts they so much need. He prescribed and gave 
 a small quantity of rice to a sick woman, and soon 
 found that nearly all her sisterhood in the place stood 
 in need of similar aliment. 
 
 I found many of these people quite desirous to 
 emigrate to the Copper Mines ; and they earnestly 
 begged permission to accompany me back. Some 
 fourteen years before, when the mines were worked, 
 a considerable trade between here aud that place 
 was carried on, which, if we maintained a post there, 
 would probably be resumed. 
 
 It is difficult to make the people of this place 
 believe that we are not a party of traders ; and every 
 hour in the day we have calls to sell needles, thread, 
 
272 AGUA PRIETA TO 
 
 and a hundred little articles. They seem different in 
 many respects from those of the towns on the Rio 
 Grande, where contact with the Americans has had 
 its effect (would that I could say for good) upon the 
 Mexicans. Their manners and habits of living are 
 more simple, and their hospitality more warm and 
 generous, though with much less means for its display. 
 We observe that the olla, or earthen pot, which is 
 almost their only domestic utensil, is different and 
 better finished than that of El Paso. They are also 
 borne differently when used as water-jars ; those of El 
 Paso being carried on the shoulder, and supported by 
 one hand, while the women here, without exception, 
 walk with a firm step and erect figure, with these frail 
 vessels, frequently containing four or five gallons of 
 water, balanced upon their heads. 
 
 The morning before we left, a wild bull was 
 brought to us. These animals are pursued by the 
 Mexicans on horseback, caught by a lariat, and 
 thrown. They are then secured by the horns, the 
 tips of which are first sawed off, to a domesticated 
 animal ; and thus tied, they come along quietly 
 enough. We selected such portions of this animal 
 as we wanted; and the remainder, including the head 
 and offal, was eagerly seized upon by the people, who 
 had been watching the process of butchering with as 
 much delight as the starving wolf or buzzard does a 
 perishing mule. 
 
 May 28th. Took our departure at seven o'clock, 
 and at a short distance passed the first way-side cross. 
 Though we met them frequently enough afterwards, 
 we saw none as striking as this. It was about ten 
 
ARISPE. 273 
 
 feet high., covered with evergreen, and supported at 
 the base by a large mound of loose stones. Usually, 
 these crosses are simply two rough sticks bound 
 together in the form of the sacred emblem ; though 
 some we saw were constructed with more care, and 
 had inscriptions carved on them. They mark the 
 places where travellers have been murdered by the 
 Apaches. 
 
 About six miles from Fronteras we passed a small 
 stream running through a little valley, on the opposite 
 side of which, on the edge of the plateau, stood the 
 deserted village of Gocuidrachi. The fields that 
 skirted the roads, the rows of pomegranate trees in 
 full bloom, and the orchards of peach, pear, and mul- 
 berry, all betokened a high state of cultivation. We 
 halted a few moments at the place, and entered 
 many of its tenantless houses, which are fast falling to 
 ruin. The church was in good condition ; for the 
 savages, though they often burn and destroy the habi- 
 tations of the people, always spare their places of 
 worship. It was indeed sad to see such desolation, 
 where but a few years before there had been so much 
 happiness. On leaving this place we ascended a long 
 and very steep hill, to accomplish which we had to* 
 double our teams. Continuing on the plateau for six 
 or eight miles, we again descended into a pleasant 
 valley, called Barbabi, thickly covered with oaks. As 
 we were moving along through these, a flock of wild 
 turkeys flew up, from which one of the party dropped 
 a fine large one with a pistol shot. Having now made 
 twenty miles, and finding ourselves in one of the most 
 
 romantic spots we had yet seen, with fine grass and 
 VOL. i. — 18 
 
274 AGUA PRIETA TO 
 
 water at hand, we pitched our tents beneath some 
 oaks and rested for the night. We were in a com- 
 plete amphitheatre of low rounded hills, all covered 
 with trees, with a high and rugged mountain on the 
 south. Taking it altogether, I had seen nothing that 
 reminded me so strongly of the scenery of Vermont 
 and New Hampshire. Near the little brook where we 
 encamped were some wild currant bushes, from which 
 we gathered an abundance of fine fruit. These made 
 into a sauce, and added to our turkey, furnished us 
 such a supper as does not often fall to the lot of travel- 
 lers. A deer, too, was killed, which was laid aside for 
 the morrow. This valley, owing to its seclusion, is 
 considered one of the most dangerous places in the 
 country, a hundred persons having been murdered 
 here within the last two years. 
 
 May 29th. Owing to the great heat during the 
 middle of the day, I determined to set off early. By 
 daybreak, therefore, we were under way, and soon 
 after entered a mountain pass or canon, which proved 
 to be exceedingly difficult for our animals. So long 
 and steep were the ascents, that at each of them we 
 were obliged to double the teams, and at every descent 
 to chain the wheels. The valleys and mountain sides 
 were covered with oaks, while the summits, as far as I 
 could judge, were covered with pines. The whole 
 country during the night had been on fire, including 
 the mountain ; so that every thing around us was now 
 black and gloomy. One of Colonel Craig's wagons 
 again broke in this defile, causing a delay of several 
 hours. These mountains are said to contain gold, and 
 we were told that " lumps," in comparison with which 
 
ARISPE. 275 
 
 those of California are but gravel stones, could be had 
 for the picking up. Our Mexican guide told us that 
 he had obtained a thousand dollars there in one week ; 
 and we afterwards learned that the placers had really 
 been worked with great results, but the frequent in- 
 roads of the Apaches had caused them to be abandoned. 
 After leaving the canon, our course lay south-east 
 over a pleasant and well-wooded country of oak, ash, 
 and mezquit. The latter increases much in size as we 
 proceed south. Reached a small running stream, when 
 a beautiful valley a mile in width opened upon us, with 
 luxuriant fields of wheat, corn, and pease. It was inter- 
 sected by a broad acequia, the course of which was 
 marked for a mile or more by a line of cotton-woods 
 and willows. At the western extremity of this valley, 
 on a spur of the plateau, stood the village of Bacuachi. 
 This is a peculiarity of all Mexican towns on the fron- 
 tier. Farmers do not build their ranchos or houses on 
 their arable lands, but congregate on the desert table- 
 land, elevated from thirty to a hundred feet above 
 the adjacent valley from which they derive their 
 subsistence. The great end of security is thus at- 
 tained at the sacrifice of all comfort and convenience ; 
 no trees or shrubbery grow about the houses, nor is a 
 blade of grass to be seen, but a glaring reflection from 
 the light, gravelly soil strikes the eye, which is doubt- 
 less one cause of so many diseases of that organ. A 
 house surrounded by foliage with a grassy lawn, which 
 makes a country residence so attractive, even though 
 it be but a humble cottage, is unknown here. Indeed 
 these people at present know not what comfort is ; but 
 with their rich soil and the advantages of irrigation, a 
 
276 AGUA PRIETA TO 
 
 few years only of peace and safety would be required 
 to make these beautiful valleys the most charming 
 abodes imaginable. 
 
 We did not stop in the village, but drove on to the 
 banks of the stream which ran at the foot of the hill 
 beyond, and there encamped. The inhabitants, who 
 had been in great consternation, came rushing down 
 the hill towards our camp, greatly relieved at ascer- 
 taining our peaceable character. 
 
 After arranging the camp we strolled up to the 
 village, which turned out to be a truly miserable place. 
 Though once prosperous, it is now nearly depopulated. 
 It is surrounded by an adobe wall about five feet in 
 height, intended doubtless as an inclosure for cattle, 
 rather than as a work of defence. The houses were 
 mostly in a dilapidated state, and the church itself was 
 roofless, though a few branches of trees had been laid 
 from wall to wall to keep the sun from the heads of the 
 devout. But if the church was suffered to become a 
 ruin, the good people had taken care of certain noisy 
 appendages, without which they could not realize that 
 they worshipped their Creator. Near their church they 
 had suspended from a beam by thongs of raw hide, 
 resting on two forked sticks, three fine old Spanish 
 bells, one of them bearing the date of 1695, the other 
 of 1721. 
 
 Our visit attracted much attention, and we were 
 soon surrounded by groups of the inhabitants, eager to 
 know who we were and what had brought us to this 
 secluded spot. I inquired for the alcalde, and on 
 being conducted to him, exhibited my letters from 
 Generals Conde and Carrasco, which quieted all fears. 
 
ARISPE. 277 
 
 We were invited to take a seat upon an adobe projec- 
 tion, a cool though rather hard substitute for a settee, 
 whereupon we entered into conversation with the 
 alcalde, and groups of inquisitive followers. Indian 
 depredations formed the sole topic of our conversation ; 
 and much surprise was expressed at our boldness in 
 venturing so far with so small a party. In such con- 
 stant fear do these people live, that I found it impossi- 
 ble to hire two men to take out our mules to a meadow 
 half a mile from the village. At length I addressed 
 to the authorities a formal demand for two herdsmen ; 
 this was complied with, and two men soon after ap- 
 peared, armed to the teeth. But by this time we had 
 made arrangements to have some green wheat cut and 
 brought to the camp, which enabled us to dispense 
 with the grazing. By scouring the town we succeeded 
 in purchasing three dozen eggs, the entire stock on 
 hand. American coin would not pass. We offered in 
 pay both half dollars and gold half eagles; but they 
 shook their heads. To my question, " Is it not good 
 gold and silver ? " I received the universal reply of 
 " Quien sabe f " Who knows ? Fortunately we had a 
 few Mexican dollars, which we were obliged to change 
 for the joles, or copper coin of the State, 128 of which 
 make a dollar. 
 
 On returning to camp, we found it full of people ; 
 and it was with difficulty that the cooks could prepare 
 our meal for the crowd of wondering spectators that 
 surrounded the fires. I thought I had seen human 
 wretchedness in its worst state, but here was a lower 
 depth. A more degraded, filthy, destitute population 
 than this, can hardly exist. Their number is about 
 
278 AGUA PRIETA TO 
 
 one thousand. Distance travelled to-day, twenty-one 
 miles. 
 
 May 30th. Soon after leaving Bacuachi, we turned 
 from the valley and took the bed of the Sonora River. 
 The mountains here approach so close together that 
 the river has barely washed its passage through, and 
 no valley or bottom is again seen for many miles. We 
 entered this canon by the bed of the river, which is 
 but a few inches deep, crossing and recrossing it a 
 hundred times during the day's journey. Sometimes 
 for miles we were so closely hemmed in by the perpen- 
 dicular sides of this extraordinary defile, which rose six 
 or eight hundred feet above on either hand, that we 
 could not see a hundred yards before or behind us; 
 and at other places, the dense foliage which sprung up 
 from little islands, hung like a canopy over our heads. 
 The whole course of the river through this canon 
 affords a series of most delightful scenes; and the first 
 few miles of the ride through it will long be remem- 
 bered by those who enjoyed it, as the most beautiful 
 portion of our route. The rocks through which the 
 stream has forced its way, exhibited the most pictu- 
 resque and fantastic forms. Columns, turrets, towers 
 and pyramids, as nature made them, decked with bril- 
 liant flowers or bearing strange cacti, appeared at 
 every turn. From projecting ledges sprung the yucca 
 and agave, where there seemed scarcely soil enough to 
 give them a foothold. The air was filled with a deli- 
 cious perfume from the grape and mellilot ; and birds 
 of brilliant plumage and sweetest song flitted across 
 our path. 
 
 It will hardly be necessary for me to remark, that 
 
ARISPE. 279 
 
 there is no wagon road here, nor have we seen one 
 since we left the California road at Agua prieta. The 
 country admits of nothing but mule paths; and what little 
 transportation there is, is carried on the backs of mules. 
 Yet, with a guide, we managed to push our way with 
 my carriage and six mule wagons through this defile, 
 by cutting away the bushes and following the bed of 
 the stream. Had there been any falls in this perpen- 
 dicular canon, we should have been in a sad predica- 
 ment ; but fortunately the descent of the river was very 
 gentle, creating only a slight ripple here and there. 
 Deer and turkeys were frequently seen, but there were 
 so many places of concealment, that on the first alarm 
 they eluded our search, and none were killed. After 
 leaving the canon a valley opened upon us, still hem- 
 med in by mountains ; this we followed about nine 
 miles, and encamped near a cluster of adobe houses, 
 which bears the name of Chinapi. Distance travelled 
 about twenty-two miles. 
 
 Just before reaching this place we met some Mexi- 
 cans, from whom we inquired the distance. Wishing 
 also to obtain some information relative to the products 
 and population of the country, we asked, " How many 
 people are there in Chinapi ?" The reply was, " Bas- 
 tante" Enough. "How many are enough?" u Quien 
 sabe f " Who knows ? In my intercourse and jour- 
 neyings with the lower class of Mexicans, these same 
 replies have been given to me a hundred times. Had 
 I asked if the place contained five hundred people, the 
 answer would probably have been, " Quisas" Perhaps. 
 But when they don't know what to answer, the universal 
 reply is, " Quien sabe" The proper expression, "iVbse," 
 
280 
 
 AGUA PRIETA TO 
 
 I do not know, is rarely heard, even among intelli- 
 gent people, so habituated have they all become to the 
 other form. 
 
 One of the sandstone formations which lay directly 
 by our path, after we had left the canon and were 
 journeying along the valley, presented so singular an 
 appearance, that I made a hasty sketch of it as I passed. 
 The three columnar masses are about fifty feet in 
 height. A small stream flows directly at their base, 
 where there is a dam to raise the water and direct it 
 into an acequia which irrigates the valley around. 
 
 Columnar Rocks near Arispe. 
 
 May Slst. Our route continued along the bed of 
 the river for about ten miles, the valley widening as 
 we advanced and becoming more cultivated, when at 
 
ARISPE. 
 
 281 
 
 length we reached Arispe and encamped in the Ala- 
 meda, a beautiful park about a thousand feet in length. 
 As soon as our tents were pitched, Colonel Craig and 
 Mr. Cremony took my letters, and went up into the 
 town to pay their respects to Colonel Garcia the com- 
 manding officer. Several officers soon after called on 
 
 
 
 Arispe, Sonora. 
 
 , me and invited myself and party to dinner at 5 o'clock. 
 The invitation was accepted by Colonel Craig, four 
 gentlemen of the Commission and myself. The Padre 
 and several prominent citizens were present, and an 
 elegant dinner was set before us, particularly rich in 
 fruit and vegetables, for which we felt a great craving. 
 
282 FROM ARISPE BACK TO 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 FROM ARISPE BACK TO THE COPPER MINES. 
 
 Description of Arispe — Primitive church service — Scarcity of grain and 
 fruit and abundance of vegetables — Set out on our return — Broken down 
 wagon abandoned — Reach Fronteras — A blacksmith's independence — 
 Celebration of a Saint's day — Manufacture of aguardiente — Various 
 uses of the Maguay — Doctor's fees — Broken wagon metamorphosed into 
 a cart — Sorry plight of a wild bull — Strike Cooke's road — Traces of fire 
 in the Guadalupe Pass — Mexican encampment — Story of Americans 
 attacked by Apaches — Reach the Copper Mines — Colonel Graham not 
 arrived— Visit General Conde's camp and consult with Lieutenant 
 Whipple — Return to the Copper Mines. 
 
 Arispe was formerly the capital of the State of Sonora ; 
 but becoming involved in the civil wars which distracted 
 that State in 1828, the seat of government was in 1832 
 removed to Ures, where it now remains. In the time 
 of its prosperity, it is said to have contained a popula- 
 tion of five thousand inhabitants ; but the civil discords 
 and the encroachments of the Indians have reduced it 
 to less than fifteen hundred. The buildings are far 
 superior to any we have seen among the Mexicans, 
 and particularly to those of El Paso. The majority 
 are built of adobe, though there are many of stone. 
 They are all higher than any we have observed else- 
 where, and are capped with a projection of brick, 
 
THE COPPER MINES. 283 
 
 besides having a variety of architectural ornaments 
 sufficient to impress one with the former wealth of the 
 place and taste of its people. It is indeed melancholy, 
 to walk through its deserted streets, and see its dilapi- 
 dated tenements, neglected courts, and closed stores. 
 The only building of particular interest is the church, 
 which was once a fine edifice, but is now fast falling 
 to decay. Its interior is of unpleasing proportions, its 
 length, as in most churches of the frontier where large 
 timber cannot be procured, being too great for its 
 breadth. It contains some fine pictures among the 
 hundred or more that are suspended from its walls. 
 They are all in beautifully carved frames richly gilt; 
 but both pictures and frames are suffering from neglect. 
 The altar is covered with massive plates of embossed 
 silver, and there is a profusion of this metal displayed 
 in the shape of massive flower vases, chandeliers, cen- 
 sers, etc. We attended mass, and found the church 
 filled almost exclusively with women. The music was 
 performed by a band in which clarionets predominated, 
 and we recognized among the tunes several of our 
 popular Ethiopian airs, such as "Dearest May." The 
 singing was performed by two girls, who seemed to 
 have perfected themselves in the art under the tuition 
 of the Chinese. 
 
 We find the same scarcity of provisions here as in 
 the other towns we have stopped at, and that it will 
 be impossible to procure any fruits, or vegetables with 
 which to load our teams ; at least there are none that 
 admit of transportation. It is not the season for 
 oranges, lemons, pomegranates, or grapes, and we find 
 that there is no dried fruit of any kind. The more sub- 
 
284 FROM ARISPE BACK TO 
 
 stantial articles of food are also scarce and high. Corn 
 is nine dollars the fanega of two and a half bushels, 
 wheat seven dollars, and other articles proportionably 
 high. The reason given for the scarcity is, that for 
 two years past such numbers have emigrated to Cali- 
 fornia that scarcely enough was raised for the consump- 
 tion of the people. This year they are returning to 
 their senses and their homes, and there is every pros- 
 pect of an abundance in the fall. The few stores in 
 the place are miserably furnished, their stocks being 
 chiefly dry goods suited to the Mexican market. The 
 only redeeming feature of the place is its gardens; 
 these were evidently established in days of prosperity, 
 and some few are still in tolerable keeping. We 
 passed several hours in strolling through them. Lofty 
 palms lift up their heads of fan-like leaves above the 
 groves of pomegranates, oranges, and lemons. We 
 found apricots in perfection, and the apple, pear, peach, 
 and quince trees full of promise. The quince is said 
 to be the best known in the world, and eatable with- 
 out cooking. We enjoy here what we have been so 
 long strangers to — fresh vegetables ; and from the 
 quantity of peas, beans, etc., consumed by our little 
 party, one would suppose they were storing up a pre- 
 ventive against the scurvy for a year to come. Water 
 is carried about the streets in bags of raw hide. These 
 have a hole at the bottom, and into it a horn is inserted 
 point downwards, which acts as a valve. Two of these 
 bags are slung upon the back of a donkey. 
 
 During our stay of three days at this place we 
 received much attention from the officers as well as 
 from several of the citizens. The better class of Mexi- 
 
THE COPPER MINES. 235 
 
 cans, particularly those of pure Castilian blood, are 
 every where noted for their courteous manners and 
 hospitality. All foreign tourists in Mexico say that 
 they never tasted good chocolate till they drank it 
 here ; an assertion in which we fully agreed. It is 
 usually prepared in families from the cocoa-nut, and 
 one accustomed to the Yankee compound of that name 
 would hardly recognize it as the same article. The 
 same curiosity in regard to our culinary and other 
 operations was manifested here as elsewhere by the 
 crowds around our tents. The use of the tooth-brush 
 was looked upon as something very droll, and the 
 taking of a seidlitz powder, a phenomenon in the way 
 of drinking which they could not comprehend. We 
 were again beset here by would-be purchasers, who 
 could hardly be persuaded that we did not come to 
 trade. Like the people of the other towns we had 
 passed, they were in constant fear of the Apaches, 
 and we were told that no one dared venture into the 
 Alameda after dark. 
 
 June 3d Set off this morning on our return, in 
 advance of the wagons, which required some slight 
 repairs. We followed as before the bed of the Sonora 
 river, which, in our day's journey of seventeen miles, 
 we crossed and re-crossed fifty-one times. At 12 
 o'clock, having struck a pleasant spot where there was 
 fine grass, with other necessaries for an encampment, 
 we stopped, believing that it would be quite as far as 
 the teams could come owing to the difficulties of the 
 road. At 5 o'clock the wagons joined us, the mules 
 showing great fatigue. 
 
 June 4:th. Resumed our journey this morning 
 
286 FROM ARISPE BACK TO 
 
 at half-past five, our route being through the great 
 canon. Having less cutting to do than before, and 
 being acquainted with the road, we accomplished 
 our task in nine hours, and drove on two miles 
 beyond Bacuachi, where we encamped. In passing 
 the town we endeavored to replenish our stock of 
 eggs ; but a single dozen was all the place afforded. 
 The wagons stopped in the canon, to rest and feed 
 the mules ; which prevented their reaching camp till 
 5 o'clock. Distance travelled fifteen miles. 
 
 June 5th. Remained in camp till noon, to repair 
 one of Colonel Craig's wagons, which had received 
 some damage in the canon. We then set off and 
 pushed on rapidly, over a pretty level and easy road 
 for twelve or fifteen miles, which brought us to the 
 foot of the mountains. Before attempting the passage 
 of the defile, which would be more difficult than it 
 was in coming through, it being now chiefly on the 
 ascent, we doubled the teams at once, putting ten 
 mules to each wagon. All went on very well until we 
 came to a steep hill with a sidelong slant. The car- 
 riage led the way ; but with all the care of my driver, 
 the mules unable to maintain their position slid on their 
 haunches, and on coming to a narrow turn the tongue 
 snapped off, and the carriage was with great difficulty 
 saved from upsetting. The first wagon that followed 
 was one of my own, driven by Jesus. On coming to 
 the same treacherous place, in spite of all our efforts 
 to prevent it, the wagon slid down, bringing the for- 
 ward wheel suddenly against a rock, and crushing it 
 almost into atoms ; the wagon turned bottom upwards, 
 rolling down the ravine, and scattering its contents as 
 
THE COPPER MINES. 287 
 
 it went. Before the other wagons were suffered to 
 descend, we filled up the lower side of the road as 
 well as we could with stones ; then placing a man at 
 the head of each mule, with others to hold back the 
 wagons, let them gradually down in safety. 
 
 It was nearly dark, and we were in a narrow gorge 
 of the mountains where there was barely room for the 
 wagons to pass. The whole earth had lately been 
 burned over to the very mountain tops, which were 
 even now throwing up columns of flame and smoke ; 
 not a blade of grass was to be seen, no water was 
 near, and there was not a level space sufficient to pitch 
 our tents. To remain here would have been injudi- 
 cious, and the only alternative was to leave the broken 
 wagon with its contents, which was chiefly corn, and 
 push on to the place where we had encamped on our 
 journey down. By this time Wells, with his usual 
 ingenuity, had managed to splice the tongue of the 
 carriage with his chains and halter ropes. Such arti- 
 cles of value as we did not wish to leave exposed, were 
 placed in the other wagons, and the corn was piled up 
 by the road side. All being ready, Dr. Webb and 
 myself set off on foot, unwilling to burden the carriage 
 in its weak state, as the road continued bad ; besides, 
 I felt safer in having my movements under my own 
 control than in threading my way in a wheeled vehicle, 
 through such a defile as we were now passing after 
 dark. The horsemen followed us, and the carriage 
 and wagons came after. In this manner we worked 
 our way slowly along by the dim starlight that glim- 
 mered through the forest ; for the canon was thickly 
 overgrown with trees. It was nearly 10 o'clock before 
 
288 FROM ARISPE BACK TO 
 
 we came upon the opening where we had stopped 
 before, and half an hour more brought us to our old 
 camping ground. Few were disposed, after the fa- 
 tigues of the day, to wait for supper ; for my own 
 part, I had walked not less than twelve miles over 
 rugged mountains, and felt that rest would do me 
 more good than eating. The tents were pitched ; and 
 after a refreshing cup of tea, which our cook had 
 hastily prepared, we wrapped ourselves in our blan- 
 kets, and were soon lost in sleep. 
 
 June Qth. We lay by to-day to repair damages. 
 The first thing done was to send a man back some fif- 
 teen miles, with a mule for the forewheel of a broken 
 wagon which we had noticed in passing ; and to dis- 
 patch others to the scene of our disaster in the canon, 
 to bring the wreck of the wagon and its contents to 
 our camp. 
 
 I have before spoken of the picturesque spot where 
 we were now encamped, it being the same in which 
 we passed the night of the 27th May; and as we were 
 obliged to stop for a day, we were most fortunate in 
 having reached so desirable a place. I spent the day 
 in wandering about the hills with my gun and sketch 
 book ; others who went in pursuit of game got a deer 
 and a turkey. When fatigued with our rambles, we 
 returned and spent a few hours in gathering wild cur- 
 rants which abounded within twenty feet of our tents. 
 Believing we could not make a better use of our 
 panoche (sugar) than in preserving the currants, the 
 cook appropriated a large portion of our stock to this 
 purpose. 
 
 In the afternoon Jesus arrived with the wheel, 
 
THE COPPER MINES. 289 
 
 which, unfortunately, would not fit our axle. Hoping 
 to repair our damage at Fronteras, now twenty miles 
 distant, we put the corn into the other wagons, and 
 trussed the broken one up in a way that would enable 
 us to get there with it. 
 
 June *Ith. No event of interest occurred to-day : 
 the broken wagon was brought along very well, and 
 we reached Fronteras early in the afternoon. 
 
 June 8th. I applied to a blacksmith the first thing 
 this morning to repair our broken wheel ; but as it 
 was some Saint's day, nothing could induce him to 
 work, and he even expressed some doubts about under- 
 taking it on the morrow. In the afternoon the fellow 
 came to my tent, and had the impudence to ask for a 
 couple of dollars to spend at a fandango in the even- 
 ing, in which case I should have his services on the 
 wheel the next day — of course by paying for them. 
 I was so completely in the fellow's power, for the order 
 of the commandante had no effect upon him, that I 
 gave him the two dollars, and took the risk of getting 
 the work done. 
 
 The day was one of great jollity among the whole 
 population; and as they had been for a day or two 
 engaged in distilling mezcal, or aguardiente, from the' 
 agave, they succeeded in getting gloriously drunk.. 
 But there is a wonderful difference between a Mex- 
 ican and an Irishman in this predicament. The latter- 
 when intoxicated, however mild his natural disposi- 
 tion, becomes frantic and is ready for a fight or any 
 kind of violence. The Mexican, on the contrary, 
 though boisterous, is seldom vicious or troublesome. 
 His desire is then for fun and frolic ; and nothing cam 
 VOL. i. — 19 
 
290 FROM ARISPE BACK TO 
 
 restrain him from indulging in these as long as he re- 
 mains under the influence of liquor. Towards night 
 we heard noises approaching, which we finally decided 
 were intended for music. A rabble at length reached 
 our camp, headed by two fellows, sawing lustily upon 
 violins of domestic manufacture. They performed 
 several pieces, among which I noticed " Oh, Susannah," 
 " Dan Tucker," and other popular airs which had pro- 
 bably been introduced by the Sonorians, who had 
 returned from California. Having entertained us suf- 
 ficiently, one of them stepped forward, and informed 
 us that there was to be a fandango in the evening, and 
 that we were invited to attend. They then gave a 
 few more morceaux and left us. 
 
 Mezcal, or aguardiente, is a spirituous liquor of 
 great strength, much more so than our strongest whis- 
 key. It is obtained from the bulb or root of the 
 maguay or agave mexicana, and is the common alcoholic 
 drink throughout the country. The process of making 
 this liquor is as follows : A hole is first dug some ten 
 or twelve feet in diameter, and about three deep, and 
 is lined with stones. Upon this a fire is built and 
 kept up until the stones are thoroughly heated. A 
 layer of moist grass is then thrown upon the stones, 
 and on this are piled the bulbs of the maguay, which 
 vary in size, from one's head to a half bushel measure, 
 resembling huge onions. These are again covered 
 with a thicker layer of grass ; and the whole is al- 
 lowed to remain until they are thoroughly baked.* 
 They are then removed to large leathern bags, and 
 
 * My readers in Rhode Island and Massachusetts will notice a strong 
 
THE COPPER MINES. 291 
 
 water is poured on them to produce fermentation. At 
 the end of a week the bags are emptied of the maguay 
 and its liquor, which, after undergoing the process of 
 distillation, is ready for use. 
 
 But the mezcal is the least important of the uses 
 to which the maguay is applied. When its stem is 
 tapped there flows from it a juice which, on being 
 fermented, produces the pulque, a favorite beverage in 
 Central and Lower Mexico, though little known in the 
 Northern States. From the fibres of its massive leaves, 
 which grow to five or six feet in length, and two 
 inches in thickness, is spun a stout thread, which is 
 again doubled, and twisted into ropes. Next, a heavy 
 bagging is made of it, similar to that in which our 
 coffee comes to market. Again, the more delicate 
 leaves are rolled up into balls, and these, on being 
 pounded, form a lather which answers the purpose 
 of soap. It is likewise used to a great extent as a 
 thatch. The younger leaves are eagerly eaten by cat- 
 tle ; and it is said that the minute particles of silica in 
 its stem render it, when cut longitudinally into strips, 
 an excellent substitute for a razor strop. But there is 
 yet another use to which it is applied, viz., as an article 
 of food. For this purpose the bulbs or roots are baked 
 in the ashes, or in the same manner as for making 
 aguardiente, and the outer skin stripped off. It is then 
 sweet, and rather pleasant to the taste, and is exten- 
 sively used by the Indians on the Gila as well as by 
 
 resemblance to their manner of baking clams ; tbe only difference being 
 that for the clams, they use the wet sea-weed, when the Mexicans use 
 the green grass. 
 
292 FROM ARISPE BACK TO 
 
 the Mexicans on the Rio Grande, who are too lazy to 
 cultivate the soil and raise corn. The engineers 
 attached to the Commission told me that the entire 
 Mexican population at Presidio del Norte, consisting 
 of a thousand souls, had no other food for more than 
 six months.* 
 
 June 9 th. In camp at Fronteras. The people 
 crowded around us as on the previous visit, some to 
 see the doctor, and others the cook. The doctor 
 found the bread he had cast upon the waters return- 
 ing ; bottles of aguardiente, cakes of sugar, and piles 
 of tortillas, came to him at the hands of the senoras 
 and senoritas in such profusion as to excite the envy 
 of the young gentlemen of the party, many of whom 
 applied for the office of hospital steward with the hope 
 of sharing some of the perquisites. But how shocked 
 were the good people when they saw to what base 
 purposes their precious aguardiente was converted. 
 The doctor, although he received the liquor readily 
 enough, had no idea of applying it to the purposes 
 intended by the donors, but used it for preserving his 
 beloved lizards, frogs, fishes, and other specimens in 
 natural history. As it would have been useless to 
 attempt explaining to his patrons his object in collect- 
 ing and preserving these ill-favored reptiles, they were 
 permitted to rest in the belief that he was making of 
 them some decoction for medicinal purposes. 
 
 June lOtJi. In Fronteras. A wild bull was sent 
 to us to-day by Captain Gomez, which furnished us 
 
 * I afterwards saw the agave used as food by the Apaches, the 
 Pimos, the Coco Maricopas, and the Diegenos, on the shores of the 
 Pacific. 
 
THE COPPER MINES. 293 
 
 with all the fresh meat we required to carry us home. 
 It is true we had on hand a stock of dried beef; but 
 nothing short of dire necessity could induce us to 
 touch it. The wheel being at length completed, 
 though in a very bungling manner, we made prepara- 
 tions to resume our journey in the morning. 
 
 June 11th. Took an early start, and moved rapidly 
 over the first portion of the road, which was quite 
 smooth, and arrived at the mountain called Cavoyan, 
 around the eastern end of which we had to pass to 
 reach the valley of the Agua Prieta. On examining 
 the damaged wheel, I found it in a dubious condition, 
 the spokes having all worked loose. We strengthened 
 it as well as possible, by inserting new ashen spokes, 
 and lashing all together with raw hide ; and then 
 pushed on, driving over the hills as carefully as possi- 
 ble. We had scarcely proceeded a mile, however, 
 when, on coming to an uneven place, the wheel 
 crushed down, splitting spokes and hub to pieces, and 
 overturning the wagon, which deposited its contents 
 on the ground in all directions. As the little stream 
 which takes its rise at the Agua Prieta was but a few 
 rods from us at the time, we selected a spot in a grove 
 of cotton-woods, and stopped there for the night. 
 
 A further examination of the wheel showed that it 
 was impossible to mend it, and that it must be con- 
 demned and abandoned. In order to make the most 
 of the wreck, we took off the hind wheels and put 
 them on the forward axle ; then, by sawing the box in 
 two, the vehicle was converted into a cart. On this 
 we placed the corn, and distributed the rest of the 
 load among the other wagons. 
 
294 FROM ARISPE BACK TO 
 
 We passed many wild cattle to-day. In one place 
 a large bull was seen mired by his hind legs, which 
 were sunk deep in the mud, while his free legs were 
 on hard ground. The poor creature had evidently 
 been in this situation several days; and the crows, 
 buzzards, and wolves had already marked him as their 
 prey. As we approached him the wolves scampered 
 off. The buzzards had actually commenced work on 
 his flanks, which they had dreadfully lacerated, so that 
 the blood was trickling down his haunches. To end 
 the misery of the suffering animal, a ball was put 
 through his heart by one of the party. About half 
 the night was spent in getting our new vehicle ready. 
 
 June 12th. Got an early start, and retracing our 
 steps up the valley of the Agua Prieta, reached that 
 spring, ten miles distant, at eight o'clock, where we 
 stopped to water. Found a wild bull here, which 
 appeared to have been wounded in his hind quarters. 
 He seemed quite disposed to give us battle ; and fear- 
 ing he might charge upon the train, and stampede the 
 mules, I thought it the wisest course to give him 
 room. Soon after, we struck Cooke's California 
 road, which presented a striking contrast with the 
 rough and trackless region we had been traversing 
 for more than a hundred miles. It was here perfectly 
 smooth ; and from our late gait of a slow walk, we 
 were enabled to move off on a trot, thus reaching San 
 Bernardino at two o'clock, four and a half hours from 
 Agua Prieta. 
 
 June 13th. Starting fresh, we hastened over the 
 plateau, and soon entered the canon in the Guadalupe 
 Pass, which had so charmed us by its luxuriant vege- 
 
THE COPPER MINES. 295 
 
 tation and picturesque beauty. But what a change 
 had taken place ! A fire had passed over it, destroy- 
 ing all the grass and shrubbery, and turning the green 
 leaves of the sycamores into brown and yellow. The 
 surface of the earth was covered with black ashes, and 
 we scarcely recognized it as the enchanting place of 
 our former visit. At first we feared that this devasta- 
 tion had been caused by our own neglect ; but on 
 reaching the spot where we had encamped, which was 
 separated from the surrounding hills by the rocky bed 
 of the stream, we found the dry grass still around the 
 place, which alone had escaped the fire. A little 
 further on we came to a camp of two hundred Mexi- 
 can soldiers, a portion of the brigade of General Car- 
 rasco. They told me that General Carrasco had been 
 to Janos; and hearing that a party of Americans 
 bound for California had been attacked on the road 
 leading from Janos to Guadalupe Pass, he divided his 
 force with the view of intercepting the marauders. 
 He himself had taken the Babispe route, to the south 
 of us. The party we met had with them a large num- 
 ber of pack mules, transporting arms and ammunition 
 from Janos to Fronteras and Arispe, having been 
 sent to the former place by wagons from the city of 
 Mexico. 
 
 The particulars of the attack, as related to me by 
 these men, were, that a party of ten Americans, with 
 two wagons, was fired upon by a band of Apaches 
 lying in ambush; that one was killed and three 
 wounded, when the remainder cut loose the mules 
 (each mounting one), abandoned their wagons, and 
 escaped to Janos. They said the wagons were still 
 
296 FROM ARISPE BACK TO 
 
 there, as well as some of their contents. They showed 
 ns some salt pork which they had taken themselves — 
 an article which forms no part of a soldier's rations 
 in. Mexico.* 
 
 We gave the Mexican officers a quarter of our 
 fresh beef. It was evident now how the fire which I 
 have mentioned originated. A portion of the brigade 
 had passed the canon a few days after us ; and their 
 twenty or thirty camp fires had, no doubt, communi- 
 cated the flames to the grass, which had afterwards 
 extended over the whole mountain. 
 
 At two o'clock we reached the worst portion of the 
 Guadalupe Pass, where the great and sudden rise takes 
 place. We attempted to double the teams, but found 
 that no more than four mules could be used to advan- 
 tage, owing to the short turns in the road. The get- 
 ting up these hills proved a very difficult task, and it 
 was only by every one putting a shoulder to the wheels 
 and chocking them at every five or six feet, that they 
 could be surmounted. It was dark when we reached 
 the small stream seven miles beyond, which, though full 
 when we passed, now furnished scarcely water sufficient 
 for our mules. 
 
 June 14dh. The road being good, we completed our 
 day's journey by 2 o'clock, p. m., and encamped on the 
 banks of the arroyo where we had nooned before. 
 
 * This statement was found to be true on our return to the Copper 
 Mines, where news had been sent from Janos ; and on leaving for Cali- 
 fornia, two months later, I took with me a man who had been in the 
 affray, and substantiated what had been related to us by the Mexican 
 soldiers. On returning from California a year later we saw on the spot 
 where this affair took place the skeleton of a man. 
 
THE COPPER MINES. 297 
 
 The stream was now dry, but water was found in the 
 spring near at hand. 
 
 June 1 5th. In crossing the ridge of hills which sepa- 
 rated us from Las Playas, the cart took a side lurch 
 and broke down, every spoke giving way and the wheel 
 crushing to pieces. As the accident was past remedy, 
 the contents of the cart were distributed among the 
 wagons, and we hastened on, reaching Las Playas at 
 noon. Here the grass and water was so good that we 
 remained until 4 o'clock, when we pushed on in order 
 to accomplish that night as much as possible of the 
 long distance of fifty-two miles that lay before us with- 
 out water. Kept on till 10 o'clock, p. m., when we 
 encamped on the arid plain. 
 
 June lQth. The road being excellent, an early 
 start and fast driving brought us to Ojo de Vaca, by 
 2 o'clock, p. m. There was scarcely grass enough here 
 to give our animals a feed, which was accounted for by 
 one of our trains having stopped here on its way from 
 the Copper Mines to Janos. 
 
 June 17th. Left at 3 a. m. and rode to Pachetehu, 
 nineteen miles, where we gave the animals a little rest, 
 and took breakfast. Resuming our journey, we pushed 
 forward and reached the Copper Mines before noon, 
 finding our party much alarmed at our long absence. 
 
 A mail had arrived in the mean time, bringing a 
 large budget of letters and newspapers ; but to my 
 great disappointment, nothing was heard of Colonel 
 Graham. The engineers, with their assistants, were 
 still waiting, and could not enter the field until he ar- 
 rived. 
 
 June 20th. Deeming it necessary that some steps 
 
298 FROM ARISPE BACK TO 
 
 should be taken in consequence of the continued ab- 
 sence of Colonel Graham, without whom, or his assist- 
 ants, I could not send another astronomical party into 
 the field, I determined to visit the camp of Lieutenant 
 Whipple, who I had been informed had reached the 
 Mimbres with his advanced parties, to consult with 
 him as to future operations. I accordingly left this 
 morning, accompanied by Lieutenant Green, and 
 Messrs. Cremony, White, and Jones. Reaching the 
 Mimbres, we followed it down about twenty-eight 
 miles below the Copper Mines, when at evening we 
 arrived at the camp of General Conde and the Mexican 
 Commission. ' There I learned that Lieutenant Whip- 
 ple was encamped on the plain near Cooke's Spring, 
 eighteen miles distant ; so I concluded to go no further, 
 but send for him to join us at General Conde's camp. 
 
 June 21st Lieutenant Green and Mr. Cremony set 
 off this morning after Lieutenant Whipple. I remained 
 in camp under a bower of bushes, keeping as quiet as 
 possible during the day, as the heat was too intense to 
 admit of stirring about. The general and his party had 
 found these bowers so much more comfortable than 
 their tents, that they had constructed several, in which 
 they remained during the day, resorting to their tents 
 only at night, or at meal times. The river near where 
 the party was encamped was entirely dry, and water 
 could be procured only by digging in its bed. A little 
 pool remained, where the animals were watered. In 
 the evening Lieutenant Whipple, accompanied by Mr. 
 Salazar, the Mexican chief astronomer and surveyor, 
 Lieut. Green, and Mr. Cremony, arrived. 
 
 June 2 2d We held a consultation to-day relative 
 
THE COPPER MINES. 299 
 
 to the parties for the survey of the Gila, which General 
 Conde was most anxious to commence at once. Our sur- 
 veying parties had long been organized, and were ready ; 
 but we had no astronomical corps to send with them, 
 without which, it would not be proper to undertake so 
 important a work. Lieutenant Whipple was making- 
 rapid progress with his survey of the line west from 
 the Rio Grande ; and he believed it best, as we had 
 now waited so long, to defer further action until Colo- 
 nel Graham should arrive. 
 
 June 23c?. To avoid the heat of the day, we set 
 out on our return at 2 o'clock, a. m., and reached the 
 Copper Mines at nine. 
 
300 INCIDENTS AT THE 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 INCIDENTS AT THE COPPER MINES. 
 
 Visit from the Apaches — Mangus Colorado — Arrival of Mr. Sanford — 11th 
 Article of the treaty relating to captives — Arrest of New Mexican 
 traders — Inez Gonzales the Mexican captive — Examination of traders 
 — Story of the captive girl — Pinalenos Indians — General Oonde ar- 
 rives — The 11th Article of the treaty enforced — Friendly intercourse 
 with the Indians — Two Mexican boys taken from them — Excitement in 
 
 consequence Conference and dialogue with the Apache chiefs — 
 
 Amicable settlement of difficulties. 
 
 On the day of my return from Sonora, the first Apache 
 Indians we had seen paid us a visit, headed by their 
 head chief, Mangus Colorado, or Red Sleeve. He 
 was accompanied by twelve or fifteen of his tribe, and 
 said he had followed us for several days ; that his 
 people had seen us when we went down to Sonora, and 
 were several times near our encampments on the jour- 
 ney. He said they knew my carriage, and that we 
 belonged here. He thought we ran a great risk in 
 going so far with so small a party ; as there were many 
 bad Indians prone to theft and murder in the country 
 through which he passed, and whom he could not 
 control. He said he was a friend of the Americans, 
 and that his people desired to be at peace with us. He 
 remembered General Kearney and Colonel Cooke, when 
 
COPPER MINES. 301 
 
 they passed through this country a few years before. 
 I explained to him the war between the United States 
 and Mexico, and its results, all of which he pretty well 
 understood already. I told him that we had now come 
 out to see this country, and mark the line that sepa- 
 rated the territory of Mexico from that acquired by the 
 United States ; that all the Indians who lived on our 
 side of the border, would have our protection as long 
 as they conducted themselves properly and committed 
 no thefts or murders ; but that if they stole any mules 
 or cattle belonging to the Americans, we should pursue 
 and punish them ; and by our treaty with Mexico, we 
 were bound to extend to her people the same protec- 
 tion. Our protection of the Mexicans he did not seem 
 to relish ; and could not comprehend why we should 
 aid them in any way after we had conquered them, or 
 what business it was to the Americans if the Apaches 
 chose to steal their mules, as they had always done, or 
 to make wives of their Mexican women, or prisoners 
 of their children. I told them the Americans were 
 bound to do so and could not break their word ; and if 
 they (the Apaches) committed any farther depreda- 
 tions on Mexico, we should not shield them from the 
 consequences. Mangus Colorado denied that he had 
 ever injured the Americans ; and when I told him I 
 had learned that some of his people had lately attacked 
 a party of our countrymen on their way to California, 
 and killed one man, he pretended to know nothing 
 about it On a subsequent interview I brought this 
 affair again to his notice, when it appeared that he was 
 acquainted with it, but said it was done by some bad 
 people living in a certain mountain range, over whom 
 
302 INCIDENTS AT THE 
 
 he had no authority. He promised that his people 
 should not trouble us or the Mexican Commission, and 
 that he would send back any mules or cattle that might 
 be taken by his young men ; and furthermore, if any 
 strayed away, he would have them caught and sent back 
 to us. I then informed him and the other chiefs, that 
 to show our good feelings towards them, I would make 
 them some presents, and accordingly directed the Com- 
 missary to distribute among them some shirts, cotton 
 cloth, beads, and other articles, which pleased them 
 much. They asked for whiskey, which I positively 
 refused, denying that I had any. Although this was 
 the simple truth, they did not believe it, not being 
 able to imagine how a party of Americans could be 
 without that indispensable article.* They were con- 
 stantly on the look-out for it, and when they saw a 
 bottle they asked if it did not contain the coveted 
 liquor. I one day handed them a bottle of catsup and 
 another of vinegar, and told them to ascertain for them- 
 selves. A taste put a stop to their investigations, and 
 they were afterwards less inquisitive. On one occa- 
 sion a party of Indians were found to be drunk shortly 
 after coming in, which induced me to believe they had 
 obtained liquor somewhere about our camp; but of 
 whom, or where, I could not ascertain, as all denied 
 having given it to them I communicated the fact to 
 Colonel Craig, who was equally determined with my- 
 self to put a stop to the practice. He believed he 
 
 * In all my intercourse with the Indians, during the two and a half 
 years I was in their country, I never gave one of them a drop of ardent 
 spirits. I also prohibited others from doing so ; but on a few occasions, 
 had reason to suspect that my orders were disobeyed. 
 
COPPER MINES. 303 
 
 could trace it to the sutler's shop ; and finding a bar- 
 rel of whiskey there, he took possession of it and had 
 it transferred to the Commissary's depot. 
 
 On the 24th June, Mr. S. P. Sanford, bearer of 
 dispatches, arrived from Washington, and brought me 
 the pleasing news that Colonel Graham, for whom we 
 had so long been waiting, had probably reached El 
 Paso on that day, accompanied by several officers.* 
 Great joy was felt by all at this prospective termina- 
 tion to our inactive state. Many of the engineers and 
 assistants had now been attached to the Commission 
 ready for duty seven months, without having yet taken 
 the field. 
 
 On the 27th June an incident occurred, which will 
 long be remembered by every one connected with the 
 Boundary Commission. It was such as to awaken the 
 finest sympathies of our nature ; and by its happy 
 result afforded a full recompense for the trials and 
 hardships attending our sojourn in this inhospitable 
 wilderness. 
 
 On the evening of the day alluded to, a party of 
 New Mexicans came in for the purpose of procuring 
 provisions, &o, having with them a young female and 
 a number of horses and mules. By what dropped 
 from them in the course of conversation, it was ascer- 
 tained that the female and animals had been obtained 
 from the Indians ; and that they were taking the girl 
 to some part of New Mexico, to sell or make such dis- 
 position of her as would realize the most money. As 
 
 * On the 30th June 'I received a note from Colonel Graham, an- 
 nouncing his arrival at El Paso on the 24th. 
 
304 INCIDENTS AT THE 
 
 all traffic of this kind, whether in mules or captives, 
 was strictly prohibited by the treaty with Mexico, I 
 deemed it my duty, as the nearest and highest repre- 
 sentative of the government of the United States in 
 this region, to interfere in the matter. My authority 
 for so doing is contained in the second and third sec- 
 tions of the eleventh article of the treaty of Guadalupe 
 Hidalgo referred to, where it is declared that — 
 
 " It shall not be lawful, under any pretext what- 
 ever, for any inhabitant of the United States to pur- 
 chase or acquire any Mexican, or any foreigner resid- 
 ing in Mexico, who may have been captured by 
 Indians inhabiting the territory of either of the two 
 Republics, nor to purchase or acquire horses, mules, 
 cattle, or property of any kind, stolen within Mexican 
 territory by such Indians. 
 
 " And in the event of any person or persons, cap- 
 tured within Mexican territory by Indians, being car- 
 ried into the territory of the United States, the govern- 
 ment of the latter engages and binds itself, in the most 
 solemn manner, so soon as it shall know of such captives 
 being within its territory, and shall be able to do so 
 through the faithful exercise of its influence and power, 
 to rescue them and return them to their country, or 
 deliver them to the agent or representative of the Mex- 
 ican government. The Mexican authorities will, as far 
 as practicable, give to the government of the United 
 States notice of such captures ; and its agent shall pay 
 the expenses incurred in the maintenance and trans- 
 mission of the rescued captives, who, in the mean time, 
 shall be treated with the utmost hospitality by the 
 American authorities at the place where they may be. 
 
COPPER MINES. 305 
 
 But if the government of the United States, before 
 receiving such notice from Mexico, should obtain intel- 
 ligence through any other channel of the existence of 
 Mexican captives within its territory, it will proceed 
 forthwith to effect their release and delivery to the 
 Mexican agents, as above stipulated." 
 
 With this authority before me I addressed a note 
 to Lieut. Colonel Craig, commander of the escort, 
 requesting him to demand the surrender of the female, 
 and to prohibit the men, who intended departing at 
 early dawn, from leaving their encampment until 
 further orders. This request, which was made late in 
 the evening, was promptly complied with under the 
 immediate directions of Lieutenant D. C. Green. 
 
 The ensuing day the three principal traders of the 
 party were brought up to the fort, and separately 
 examined, in reference to the manner in which they 
 had obtained, and the right they had to the possession 
 of, the captive girl and the animals. These three per- 
 sons were Peter Blacklaws, a trader in Santa Fe, 
 Pedro Archeveque, a laborer of Algodones, and Jose 
 Faustin Valdez, a laborer of Santa Fe. 
 
 Their evidence was somewhat conflicting — more 
 particularly with respect to the female. It appeared 
 there was a party of about fifty men who had been 
 trading with the Indians north of the Gila ; a portion 
 of them still remained there, whilst another portion 
 (about twenty) were here, on their way back to Santa 
 Fe. The whole had been trading under one and the 
 same license, although it was acknowledged that the 
 name of none of them, save Peter Blacklaws, was 
 inserted in it; he, however, declared that he was 
 vol. I.--20 
 
306 INCIDENTS AT THE 
 
 authorized — which is hardly probable — to add to his 
 party as many as he chose. This license was called 
 for, but not produced, it being, as was stated, in the 
 possession of the other portion of the party. They 
 seemed to consider themselves fully authorized, by 
 virtue of the license, to purchase any species of pro- 
 perty held by the Indians, and this without any regard 
 to the manner in which the latter obtained it. They 
 seemed surprised that I should question their rights 
 on the strength of a treaty, the stipulations of which 
 they knew nothing about. 
 
 As respects the captive girl, who it was acknow- 
 ledged was bought of the Pinal Indians, even placing 
 their conduct in the most favorable light, it is quite 
 apparent that she was purchased, like any other article 
 of merchandise, as a matter of speculation. According 
 to part of the testimony, the expedition was fitted out 
 for the express purpose of buying her ; while others 
 declared that the purchase was an incidental matter. 
 It appeared that her apprehensions at being taken by 
 these men still further from her home, instead of being 
 restored to her natural protectors, had been quieted 
 by assurances that her purchaser was acquainted with 
 relatives of hers in Santa Fe ; although his testimony 
 showed, as might have been anticipated, that he had 
 no such acquaintances at all. 
 
 The girl herself was quite young, artless, and inter- 
 esting in appearance, prepossessing in manners, and 
 by her deportment gave evidence that she had been 
 carefully brought up. The purchaser belonged to a 
 people with whom the system of peonage prevails, 
 and among whom, as a general thing, females are not 
 
COPPER MINES. 307 
 
 estimated as with us, especially in a moral point of 
 view. The fate that threatened her under these cir- 
 cumstances, being too apparent, I felt under no neces- 
 sity of regarding the protestations of Blacklaws, as to 
 the honesty of his intentions, inasmuch as the treaty 
 prohibits purchases of this kind " under any pretext 
 whatever.' 1 '' I therefore deemed it to be my duty — and 
 a pleasant one it certainly was, to extend over her the 
 protection of the laws of the United States, and to see 
 that, until delivered in safety to her parents, she 
 should be " treated with the utmost hospitality " that 
 our position would allow. 
 
 The substance of the following brief statement was 
 furnished by this young captive : 
 
 Her name is Inez Gonzales, daughter of Jesus 
 Gonzales, of Santa Cruz, a small frontier town, near the 
 River San Pedro, in the State of Sonora. She was 
 then in the fifteenth year of her age. In the Septem- 
 ber preceding she had left her home, in company with 
 her uncle, her aunt, another female, and a boy, on a 
 visit to the fair of San Francisco, in the town of Made- 
 lena, about 75 miles distant. They were escorted by 
 a guard of ten soldiers, under the command of an 
 ensign named Limon. When one day's journey out, 
 viz., on the 30th of September, 1850, they were at- 
 tacked by a band of Pinol Indians, who lay in ambush 
 in a narrow wooded canon or pass. Her uncle wa,s 
 killed, and all the guard, save three persons, who 
 made their escape. She with her two female com- 
 panions, and the boy, Francisco Pascheco, were carried 
 away into captivity. She has been with the Indians 
 ever since. The other captives she understands were 
 
308 INCIDENTS AT THE 
 
 purchased and taken to the north by a party of New 
 Mexicans who made the Indians a visit last winter. No 
 improper freedom was taken with her person ; but she 
 was robbed of her clothing, save a skirt and under 
 linen, and was made to work very hard. She spent 
 the whole period of her captivity at two of the regular 
 rallying spots or planting grounds of the Pinols. 
 
 This tribe is also known as the Pinal, or Pinalenos. 
 embraces about five hundred souls, and ranges over 
 an extensive circuit between the Sierra Pinal and 
 the Sierra Blanca, both of which mountains are near the 
 Upper San Francisco River, about five days' journey 
 north of the Gila.* Within this space the young girl 
 knew of at least twelve female captives, besides nume- 
 rous males. Generally, the Indians are very willing 
 to sell, that being their object in making the captures. 
 The men spend their time in hunting and depredating ; 
 and the women are required to do all the work in their 
 wigwams and generally in the field. All females in 
 this respect being treated alike, their own faring no 
 better than captives. Their food consists almost exclu- 
 sively of the root of the maguay, baked as I have 
 before described. 
 
 I never saw any of the Pinal Indians, though a 
 band was met by one of the surveying parties on the 
 Gila. They were described to me as a fine looking 
 people. At first they were shy ; but when they disco- 
 vered that our party were Americans, and were well 
 
 * There are two streams by this name on Emory's map, which 
 empty into the Gila ; I refer to the eastern one. The western one is 
 known on the Spanish maps as the Rio Verde, or Ascencion. 
 
COPPER MINES. 309 
 
 disposed towards them, they became quite friendly. 
 On inquiring of the Apache Chiefs concerning them, I 
 learned that they belong to the same great tribe, but 
 seldom have any intercourse with the Apaches proper, 
 being separated from them by broad deserts and lofty 
 mountains. 
 
 General Garcia Conde, the Mexican Commissioner, 
 being encamped about twenty-six miles off, I dis- 
 patched a messenger to him requesting his presence, 
 to advise and co-operate with me in this matter. He 
 accordingly visited me, and, upon inquiring, found 
 that he was acquainted with the released captives's 
 father, a respectable citizen of Santa Cruz. He ap- 
 proved warmly of my course, evincing, as it would, to 
 his government a determination on the part of the 
 United States to solemnly and faithfully fulfil its treaty 
 stipulations. He also particularly solicited that the 
 young woman should be kept under my protection 
 until such time as she could be restored in safety to 
 her home. 
 
 The fair captive was of course taken care of by the 
 Commission. She was well clad with such materials 
 as the sutler of the escort and the commissary of the 
 Commission could furnish ; and besides the more sub- 
 stantial articles of clothing provided for her, she 
 received many presents from the gentlemen of the 
 Commission, all of whom manifested a deep interest in 
 her welfare, and seemed desirous to make her comfort- 
 able and happy. But with all the attentions extended 
 to her, her situation was far from enviable in a camp 
 of over a hundred men, without a single female with 
 whom she could hold any intercourse. She found. 
 
310 INCIDENTS AT THE 
 
 employment enough in making her own garments, 
 being quite expert at her needle, and occasionally 
 spent an hour in reading the few Spanish books in our 
 possession. 
 
 Another incident upon which the 11th article of 
 the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo has a direct bearing, 
 occurred on the day succeeding that of the event just 
 related. 
 
 Ever since my return from Sonora, the Apaches, 
 with their chiefs, women, and children, had been daily 
 visitors to the Copper Mines, and to our several 
 encampments. The most friendly feelings had been 
 manifested by them ; and in return, we had not failed 
 to let them know that it was for their interest to be at 
 peace with us, and, as far as lay in their power, to 
 restore to us any mules or cattle that strayed away. 
 An additional evidence that there was a sincerity at 
 the time in our Apache friends was the freedom with 
 which their women and children visited our camps and 
 quarters. They had themselves encamped about four 
 miles from us, and had with them large herds of 
 horses and mules. 
 
 On the day referred to, when a large party of the 
 Apaches were in, two Mexican boys suddenly rushed 
 into the tent of Mr. Cremony, which was pitched in 
 the outskirts of the place, and sought his protection 
 from their Indian captors. He at once brought them 
 to my quarters ; and, on being questioned, they stated 
 that they had been stolen from their homes by the Apa- 
 ches. One, named Saverro Aredia, and about thirteen 
 years old, had been taken from the town of Bacuachi, 
 in the State of Sonora, six months before ; the other, 
 
COPPER MINES. 311 
 
 Jose Trinfan, ten or twelve years of age, belonged to 
 Fronteras, in the same State, and had been held a pri- 
 soner six years. Believing, from what they had heard 
 the Indians say, who had visited the Copper Mines, 
 that they would find protection with us, they sought 
 our camp. They were both intelligent looking boys ; 
 their hair was cropped short, and they were entirely 
 naked. 
 
 When these youths were brought to me, Mangus 
 Colorado and Delgadito, two prominent chiefs of the 
 Apaches, and a number of their tribe, were present ; 
 they already knew of the escape of the prisoners, and 
 at once proposed that I should purchase them. I 
 declined, telling them that the Americans did not buy 
 captives; and furthermore, that having sought my 
 protection, I should not deliver them up. In vain I 
 endeavored to make the chiefs comprehend our treaty 
 with Mexico, and the principles of justice and huma- 
 nity on which it was based. They did not, or would 
 not, understand, and left our camp evidently much 
 offended. I requested Mangus Colorado to come to 
 me on the following day, when I would endeavor to 
 satisfy him. The day arrived, but Mangus did not 
 appear ; and I began to be fearful that the friendly 
 feeling which existed between the Commission and 
 the Indians would be terminated by this event. I 
 received intimations that the boys were not safe, and 
 that an attempt would probably be made to recapture 
 them the first opportunity. Determined, not to be 
 thwarted in this way, I sent them off at night, well 
 clothed, in charge of four resolute men, with direc- 
 tions to take them to the camp of General Conde and 
 deliver them into his hands. 
 
312 INCIDENTS AT THE 
 
 After the lapse of several days, the chiefs with their 
 people, including the owner of one of the boys, again 
 made their appearance. The matter was again talked 
 over, but nothing was decided, and they returned to 
 their camps. After several fruitless conferences of this 
 sort, the affair was at length so arranged that the cap- 
 tives should be retained by us, and our friendly rela- 
 tions not be impaired. As this last discussion was one 
 of much interest, it was taken down by one of the gen- 
 tlemen present. I give it therefore at length, as the 
 arguments used by my opponents display to good 
 advantage their natural shrewdness of character. It 
 was commenced by Mangus Colorado, who thus ad- 
 dressed me : 
 
 Mangus Colorado. — Why did you take our captives 
 from us ? 
 
 Commissioner. — Your captives came to us and 
 demanded our protection. 
 
 Mangus Colorado. — You came to our country. 
 You were well received by us. Your lives, your pro- 
 perty, your animals, were safe. You passed by ones, 
 by twos, and by threes, through our country ; you 
 went and came in peace. Your strayed animals were 
 always brought home to you again. Our wives, our 
 children, and women, came here and visited your 
 houses. We were friends! We were brothers! Be- 
 lieving this, we came amongst you and brought our 
 captives, relying on it that we were brothers, and that 
 you would feel as we feel. We concealed nothing. 
 We came not here secretly or in the night. We came 
 in open day and before your faces, and we showed our 
 captives to you. We believed your assurances of 
 
COPPER MINES. 313 
 
 friendship, and we trusted them. Why did you take 
 our captives from us ? 
 
 Commissioner. — What we have said to you is true 
 and reliable. We do not tell lies. The greatness and 
 dignity of our nation forbids our doing so mean a 
 thing. What our great brother has said is true, and 
 good also. I will now tell him why we took his cap- 
 tives from him. Four years ago,' we, too, were at war 
 with Mexico. We know that the Apaches make a 
 distinction between Chihuahua and Sonora. They are 
 at peace with Chihuahua, but always fighting against 
 Sonora. We in our war did not make that distinction. 
 The Mexicans, whether living in one or the other 
 State, are all one nation, and we fought them as a 
 nation. Well, when the war was over, in which we 
 conquered, we made peace with them. They are now 
 our friends, and by the terms of the peace we are bound 
 to protect them. We told you this when we came to 
 this place, and we requested you to cease your hostili- 
 ties against Mexico. Well, time passed, and we grew 
 very friendly ; every thing went well. You came in 
 here with your captives. Who were these captives? 
 Mexicans — the very people we told you we were bound 
 to protect. We took them from you and sent them 
 to General Garcia Conde, who will set them at liberty 
 in their own country. We mean to show you that we 
 cannot lie. We promised protection to the Mexicans, 
 and we gave it to them. We promise friendship and 
 protection to you, and we will give it to you. If we 
 had not done so to Mexico, you could not have 
 believed us with regard to yourselves. We cannot 
 lie. 
 
314 INCIDENTS AT THE 
 
 Ponce, — Yes, but you took our captives from us 
 without beforehand cautioning us. We were ignorant 
 of this promise to restore captives. They were made 
 prisoners in lawful warfare. They belong to us. They 
 are our property. Our people have also been made 
 captives by the Mexicans. If we had known of this 
 thing, we should not have come here. We should not 
 have placed that confidence in you. 
 
 Commissioner. — 'Our brother speaks angrily, and 
 without due reflection. Boys and women lose their 
 temper, but men reflect and argue ; and he who has 
 reason and justice on his side, wins. I have no doubt 
 but that you have suffered much by the Mexicans. 
 This is a question in which it is impossible for us to 
 tell who is right, or who is wrong. You and the 
 Mexicans accuse each other of being the aggressors. 
 Our duty is to fulfil our promise to both. This 
 opportunity enables us to show to Mexico that we 
 mean what we say ; and when the time comes, we will 
 be ready and prompt to prove the good faith of our 
 promises to you. 
 
 Ponce. — I am neither a boy nor a squaw. I am a 
 man and a brave. I speak with reflection. I know 
 what I say. I speak of the wrongs we have suffered 
 and those you now do us. (Very much excited.) 
 You must not speak any more. Let some one else 
 speak (addressing himself to Mr. Cremony, the inter- 
 preter). 
 
 Commissioner. — I want you to understand that /am 
 the very one to speak; the only one here who can 
 speak (peremptorily). Now do you sit down. I will 
 hold no more talk with you, but will select a man 
 
COPPER MINES. 315 
 
 (beckoning to Dalgadito). Do you come here and 
 speak for your nation. 
 
 Dalgadito. — Let my brother declare the mind of 
 his people. 
 
 Commissioner. — I wish to explain to our Apache 
 brethren the reasons that have actuated us in this thing, 
 and what we can do for the master of these captives. 
 We know that you have not done this thing secretly, 
 or in the dark. You came as braves in open day, 
 and brought your captives amongst us. We are 
 obliged to obey the orders of our great chief in Wash- 
 ington as much as you warriors are obliged to obey 
 your commanders. The great chief of our nation says : 
 "You must take all Mexican captives that you meet 
 among the Apaches, and set them at liberty." Now 
 this you must know we cannot disobey. For this reason 
 we have taken your captives from you. 
 
 Dalgadito. — We do not doubt the word of our 
 brave white brethren. The Americans are braves, we 
 know it j and we believe a brave scorns to lie. But 
 the owner of these captives is a poor man ; he cannot 
 lose his captives, who were obtained at the risk of his 
 life, and purchased by the blood of his relatives. He 
 justly demands his captives. We are his friends, and 
 we wish to see this demand complied with. It is just, 
 and as justice we demand it. 
 
 Commissioner. — I will now tell my Apache brethren 
 what can be done for them. The captives cannot be 
 restored. The Commissioner cannot buy them, neither 
 can any American buy them ; but there is here in our 
 employ a Mexican who is anxious to buy them, and 
 restore them to their homes. We have no objection 
 
316 INCIDENTS AT THE 
 
 that this Mexican should do so ; and if he is not rich 
 enough, some of us will lend him the means. 
 
 Dalgadito. — The owner does not wish to sell ; he 
 wants his captives. 
 
 Commissioner. — I have already told my brother 
 that this cannot be. I speak not with two tongues. 
 Make up your minds. 
 
 Dalgadito. — The owner wauts twenty horses for 
 them. 
 
 Commissioner. — The Apache laughs at his white 
 brother ! He thinks him a squaw, and that he can 
 play with him as with an arrow ! Let the Apache say 
 again. 
 
 Dalgadito. — The brave who owns these captives 
 does not wish to sell. He has had one of those (two) 
 boys six years. He grew up under him. His heart- 
 strings are bound around him. He is as a son to his 
 old age. He speaks our language, and he cannot sell 
 him. Money cannot buy affection. His heart cannot 
 be sold. He taught him to string and shoot the bow, 
 and to wield the lance. He loves the boy, and cannot 
 sell him. 
 
 Commissioner. — We are sorry that this thing should 
 be. We feel for our Apache brother, and would like 
 to lighten his heart. But it is not our fault. Our 
 brother has fixed his affections on the child of his 
 enemy. It is very noble. But our duty is stern. We 
 cannot avoid it. It wounds our hearts to hurt our 
 friends ; but if it were our own children, and the duty 
 and the law said, "Part with them," part with them 
 we should. Let our Apache brother reflect, and name 
 his price. 
 
COPPER MINES. 317 
 
 Dalgadoto. — What will you give ? 
 
 Commissioner. — If my brethren will come with me 
 I will show them. 
 
 Here the council dissolved and repaired to the com- 
 missary's stores, attended by the Mexican purchaser, 
 where goods to the amount of two hundred and fifty 
 dollars were laid out, which they accepted, and thus 
 the business was concluded.* 
 
 Under no other circumstances would I have been 
 instrumental in remunerating these Indians for their 
 captives : but in the present state of the Boundary 
 Survey, this affair, had it not been amicably adjusted, 
 might have proved a most serious obstacle to the pros- 
 ecution of our duties. 
 
 The Indians remained encamped on both sides of 
 us in large force. Mangus Colorado with his band, 
 being on the west about four miles off, and Dalgadito 
 at the distance of eight miles near the Mimbres, where, 
 on account of the superior grass in the valley of that 
 stream, the greater portion of our horses and mules 
 were kept. It was therefore completely in the power 
 of the Indians to drive them all off, if they were so 
 disposed. In promising them our friendship, I told 
 them that they must deserve it by protecting our 
 animals ; and if unfriendly Indians should attempt to 
 steal them, they must restore them to us. This they 
 promised to do, and they faithfully adhered to their 
 undertaking. Once, some of our animals were stolen, 
 
 * These boys were not detained a moment at the camp of the Mexi- 
 can Commissioner, but sent to Janos, the nearest military post in 
 Mexico, from whence they were taken to their families. 
 
318 INCIDENTS AT THE COPPER MINES. 
 
 and on several occasions they strayed away ; but in 
 every instance the Indians brought thern back, and 
 sometimes at the expense of much labor and trouble 
 to themselves. 
 
INCIDENTS AT THE COPPER MINES. 310 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 INCIDENTS AT THE COPPER MINES. 
 
 Intercourse with the Apaches — Mangus Colorado and his new clothes — 
 Proper mode of treating Indians — Treachery and Massacre of Indians, 
 by an Englishman — Tribe of Copper Mine Apaches — Their numbers — 
 Extent of their incursions — Ethnological Position— Inferiority of the 
 Tribe — Dress — Visit from the Navajos — Their Fine Blankets — Ad 
 Apache shot by a Mexican — Alarm — Arrest and Examination of Prison- 
 er — Death of the Indian — The Murderer demanded by the Apaches — 
 Conference with the Chiefs, and their Talk — Restoration of Friend- 
 ship. 
 
 After the pleasant termination of our difficulty with 
 the Apaches relative to the captive boys, they con- 
 tinued their daily visits as before, and were subject to 
 no restraint. They always made their first calls on 
 Colonel Craig, who treated them with the greatest 
 kindness, or myself; after which they strolled about 
 visiting the quarters or tents of the others, or watch- 
 ing the several mechanics in their labors. I had a 
 full suit of blue broadcloth, made for Mangus Colo- 
 rado, and gave all his family clothing besides. Some 
 of his children, of which, I think he had nine, gen- 
 erally accompanied him, and always received some 
 little knick-knacks to take back with them. Mangus 
 was mightily pleased with his suit, which consisted of 
 
320 INCIDENTS AT THE 
 
 a frock coat lined with scarlet and ornamented with 
 gilt buttons. His pantaloons, at his request, were 
 open from the knee downwards, after the fashion of 
 the Mexicans, with a row of small fancy buttons on 
 one side, and a broad strip of scarlet cloth on the 
 outer side from the hip downwards. A white shirt 
 and red silk sash completed his dress. While the 
 tailor had it in hand, he visited him daily to watch its 
 progress, and a child might have envied him his de- 
 light. But in putting them on, his Indian character 
 was most strikingly displayed. He insisted on wear- 
 ing his shirt outside of his pantaloons; and all my 
 efforts to induce him to reverse the arrangement were 
 without effect. The reluctance of all Indians to con- 
 form to our customs with regard to dress is well 
 known ; and it is only after many years of constant 
 intercourse that the men will wear their shirts as we 
 do. The women adhere with equal tenacity to some 
 of their customs. They prefer the leggin and blanket 
 to any other dress ; and even after they have become 
 completely domiciliated among us, as is the case with 
 the Iroquois tribes in the State of New-York, they 
 refuse to give up their broad-brimmed hats and fea- 
 thers. 
 
 I often invited the chiefs, and in particular Mangus 
 Colorado, to dine with me. On these occasions their 
 conduct was marked with as much decorum as though 
 they had been used to civilized society all their lives ; 
 though it is true, they sometimes exhibited a curiosity 
 to understand the nature of the dishes that were placed 
 before them, and generally wished to have a taste of 
 every thing. After a little while they showed a dis- 
 
COPPER MINES. 321 
 
 position to take more liberties ; and when my guest 
 had finished his meal, he managed to leave his plate 
 pretty well filled, and beckoned to another to take his 
 seat. This was submitted to once or twice ; after 
 which, finding it encroached too much on my supply, 
 I no longer invited any to my table. I was willing to 
 give a place to a chief occasionally ; but to have half 
 a dozen hungry fellows standing outside waiting to 
 take their turn, was more than I was able or willing 
 to put up with. They knew that we had killed seve- 
 ral bears, and that we ate their flesh. They always 
 asked if we had bear on the table, for they wished to 
 avoid it, but, with our cooking, could not tell it from 
 beef. I never deceived them, nor urged them to eat 
 bear's meat. I found they had some superstitious 
 prejudice against it, but could never prevail on them 
 to tell me what it was. 
 
 During this time the members of the Commission 
 went about freely in small parties or alone, for twenty 
 or thirty miles around our camp, and were on no occa- 
 sion molested. They also visited the Apache camps, 
 where they were well received. Our wagons with 
 stores, went unprotected to and from the Surveyors, 
 and their attendants, who were scattered in small par- 
 ties for fifty miles along the line, where the escort 
 could afford them but little protection. Hence the 
 great importance {.0 the success of the Commission in 
 maintaining friendly relations with these Indians. 
 
 My experience established the truth of the opinion 
 I had always entertained, that kind treatment, a rigid 
 adherence to what is right, and a prompt and invaria- 
 ble fulfilment of all promises, would secure the friend- 
 VOL. i. — 21 
 
322 INCIDENTS AT THE 
 
 ship of the Apaches, a tribe of Indians which has the 
 reputation of being the most hostile and treacherous 
 to the whites of any between the Rio Grande and the 
 Pacific. It is the conduct of unprincipled traders and 
 emigrants, who sow the seeds of intemperance and 
 vice among them, which has created most of the diffi- 
 culties before experienced. These men defraud them 
 of their property, and, on the slightest pretence, take 
 their lives. That the Indians feel the deepest hatred 
 towards the Mexicans is true, and they certainly have 
 reason for entertaining a strong antipathy to that peo- 
 ple. Acts of treachery of the grossest and cruelest 
 description have been practised by the Mexicans to- 
 wards them ; and, though years have passed away since 
 these events occurred, they are not forgotten by the 
 Apaches. The desire of revenge, or as we should 
 term it in our own case, of retributive justice, seems, 
 instead of diminishing, to acquire increased intensity, 
 with the lapse of time. But bad as the conduct of the 
 Mexicans may have been towards these Indians, they 
 never were guilty of a more fiendish act than one per- 
 petrated on them by an Englishman, some twelve or 
 fourteen years ago, in the northern part of Sonora. 
 The particulars as related to me are briefly these : and 
 having heard them both at El Paso, and at Arispe, I 
 have no doubt of their correctness. It seems that in 
 consequence of the depredations of the Indians, the 
 State of Sonora offered a premium of one hundred dol- 
 lars for each Apache scalp. A disgrace to his nation, 
 named Johnson, actuated by the reward, induced a 
 large party of Apaches, men, women and children, to 
 assemble around a quantity of goods, which he had 
 
COPPER MINES. 323 
 
 brought among them ostensibly for the purpose of 
 trade. He had concealed beneath some saddles and flour 
 bags, a cannon heavily loaded with shot and a piece of 
 chain, near which was stationed a man, pretending to 
 smoke. At a signal given by Johnson, this man sud- 
 denly uncovered the breech of the gun and touched it 
 off, the rest of his party at the same time discharging 
 their small-arms among the terrified Indians, who fell 
 on every side. When the survivors had collected 
 their senses, and saw the Americans preparing for 
 another volley, they rallied, and being the larger 
 party, put Johnson and his crew to flight. A skir- 
 mish afterwards took place, in which the Indians met 
 with further loss. After so base and villainous an act, 
 it is not suprising that the Apaches look upon all 
 white men as their enemies, whether Mexicans or 
 Americans. 
 
 The Copper Mine Apaches occupy the country on 
 both sides of the Rio Grande, and extend west to the 
 country of the Goyoteros and Pinalenos, near the 
 eastern San Francisco River. This may be called their 
 proper home, though their incursions extend far into 
 the States of Chihuahua and Sonora, where, during 
 portions of the year, they reside. A favorite place of 
 resort for them is near Lake Guzman, to the west of 
 El Paso. They do not extend more than four or five 
 days 1 journey north of the Gila. From the best infor- 
 mation I can gain, their numbers have been greatly 
 reduced within the last five years. Omitting those east 
 of the Rio Grande, it is believed that they cannot muster 
 two hundred warriors. My information is derived 
 from General Conde, and from Mexicans who had long 
 
324 INCIDENTS AT THE 
 
 lived, on the frontier, having frequent intercourse with 
 them at Janos, and who knew all their chiefs. Ameri- 
 can authority places their numbers much higher, esti- 
 mating them by thousands, instead of hundreds. But 
 notwithstanding their depredations, they have from 
 time to time been at peace with the Mexicans, receiv- 
 ing from the military authorities at Janos monthly 
 supplies of corn and other articles of food. Hence the 
 latter have had a better opportunity to judge of their 
 numbers than we have. 
 
 Between the Sacramento Mountains and the Pecos 
 are other Apache tribes more numerous than those in 
 question, from whom they are separated by an unin- 
 habited desert region between eighty and one hundred 
 miles in width, extending from the Sacramento Moun- 
 tains to the Rio Grande. The country which they 
 occupy is believed to be one of the richest portions of 
 New Mexico. It has not yet been explored ; but I 
 have been told by Mexicans who have crossed it at 
 various places, that it has an excellent soil, is well 
 watered and timbered. They keep up a show of 
 friendship with the settlements by sending their old 
 women to trade and beg; but the warriors rarely 
 show themselves. It is not my intention to dwell 
 largely on the Indian tribes in the present work, but 
 merely to speak of them as we met them, to point out 
 their localities, and to relate such occurrences as took 
 place between us. There is much to be said relative 
 to them all, which the limits of this work will not 
 admit of, nor does it seem proper in a " personal narra- 
 tive " of incidents, to enter into the broad field of eth- 
 nological investigation which presents itself west of the 
 
COPPER MINES. 325 
 
 Rocky Mountains. My materials in this department 
 are copious, and will constitute the subject of a future 
 memoir. 
 
 The Apache nation as a whole is one of the most 
 widely disseminated on the North American Continent, 
 and embraces a great many tribes which are as yet 
 only known to us by name. Nor are we even able to 
 say with certainty whether all the tribes said to be of 
 the Apache stock belong to it or not. It is only by a 
 comparison of their languages that their ethnological 
 position can be accurately determined, In general 
 terms, they may be said to extend from the Pecos on 
 the east to the desert bordering on the Gulf of Califor- 
 nia (the limit of which is the valley of the Santa Cruz, 
 south of the Gila), and to the Colorado, north of that 
 river ; or from the 103d degree of longitude west from 
 Greenwich to the 114th. From north to south they 
 extend from the country of the Utahs (Yutas), in lati- 
 tude 38° north to about the 30th parallel. Beyond 
 this they have no fixed habitations, though they range 
 about two degrees farther south in their predatory 
 incursions in the States of Chihuahua and Sonora. On 
 the Colorado River of California are many tribes only 
 known by name ; but whether they are allied to the 
 Apache nation or to some of the California families is 
 not known. The great Navajo (pronounced Navaho) 
 tribe, the most populous of any west of the Rocky 
 Mountains, in the district named, belongs to the 
 Apache family ; and I have no doubt that when an 
 examination is made of the languages and other means 
 of comparison, tribes still further to the north will be 
 found to belong to the same stock. In fact, from 
 
326 
 
 INCIDENTS AT THE 
 
 analogies already selected, such has been found to be 
 the case.* 
 
 The Apaches with which we had intercourse must 
 rank below the Indian tribes east of the Rocky Moun- 
 tains, dwelling on the tributaries of the Mississippi 
 and Missouri Rivers. They are without that dignified 
 
 Group of Apaches. 
 
 bearing, and those noble traits of character, which 
 characterize the latter ; and as they perform no labor, 
 
 * In an essay read before the American Ethnological Society by 
 my friend, Professor Wm, W. Turner, he has shown that a close ana- 
 logy exists between the languages of the Apaches and the Athapascans, 
 a tribe on the confines of the Polar Sea. 
 
COPPER MINES. 327 
 
 not even that of hunting, their physical developments 
 are greatly inferior. Mangus Colorado, and a few 
 other prominent chiefs, who live pretty well, and have 
 the lion's share of their plunder, are rather good look- 
 ing ; and a finer set of children than those of Mangus, 
 of Dalgadito, and Ponce, are not often seen. But 
 beyond these few exceptions, the Apaches are an ill- 
 formed, emaciated, and miserable looking race. As 
 those we saw did not cultivate the earth, they depend 
 upon what they can steal from the Mexicans and Ame- 
 ricans on the frontier for a subsistence. The supply thus 
 obtained consists almost exclusively of mules ; and 
 when this fails they resort to the bulb of the maguay. 
 In fact, this may be said to constitute at all times the 
 food of the majority ; for the chiefs take good care 
 that they at least shall have mule meat when there is 
 any. 
 
 In saying that certain individuals w.ere fine look- 
 ing, I speak of mere physical development. I do not 
 think I ever saw a mild or amiable face among them ; 
 on the contrary, they had all a treacherous, fiendish 
 look, which well expressed their true character. They 
 are in general poorly clothed, a majority wearing deer 
 skins tied about them, without any attempt to fashion 
 them into garments. If a man could get a shirt, he 
 seemed quite content without any other garment. Many, 
 and I should think most of them, wore long deer-skin 
 boots, with stout soles, turned up at the toes, the legs 
 being either fastened around the loins or turned over 
 at the knees. These were well made, and exhibited 
 more taste and care than any other garment about 
 them. It is not, however, on account of their beauty 
 
328 INCIDENTS AT THE 
 
 that they wear these fine long boots, but from neces- 
 sity ; as they require them to protect their legs when 
 riding among the thorny chapporal of the plains, as 
 well as from the venomous reptiles which abound 
 there. The Apaches have their dandies as well as 
 their civilized brethren ; in fact I have found among 
 every tribe of Indians men of this class, whose minds 
 seem to dwell more on their personal appearance than 
 on any thing else. They are fond of remaining at 
 home, associate more than others with the women, 
 and never accompany war parties. They are looked 
 upon as drones by the braves. Those whom we saw 
 among the Apaches, were generally dressed in some 
 tawdry manner, and their faces covered with paint. 
 Some, with a truer sense of savage beauty, and who 
 have fine manly forms, wore nothing but a breech 
 cloth and boots. These, mounted on fine animals, and 
 armed with a- lance or bow, sometimes made their ap- 
 pearance among the ragged and motley groups which 
 visited our camps. A helmet-shaped cap of deer skin, 
 fitting close to the head, and covered on the top with 
 a bunch of feathers, is worn by many ; while others have 
 straw hats, taken from the heads of Mexicans whom 
 they have killed. Another and very picturesque orna- 
 ment which the hatless and capless have recourse to, is 
 a wreath of grass or leaves, twined around their heads 
 and projecting well over their eyes, to protect them 
 from the sun. The Mexican serape is also worn by 
 those who have become the possessors of such a useful 
 article of dress by murdering its former owner. The 
 women wear jackets or tunics of deer skin, more or 
 less ornamented, a profusion of beads, when they can 
 
COPPER MINES. 
 
 329 
 
 get them, and deer-skin leggins. Most of them wear 
 unbleached cotton or calico shirts, which they obtain 
 of the Indian traders or at the settlements. 
 
 Apacho Head-dress and 
 
 On one occasion our camp was visited by a band 
 of Navajo Indians, four hundred of whom were 
 encamped on the banks of the Gila. This is a formida- 
 ble, warlike, and treacherous tribe, which descend from 
 their strongholds in the canons west of Santa Fe, and 
 rob the inhabitants of New Mexico of their cattle and 
 sheep. They had heard of our party, and had taken 
 advantage of the friendly manner in which the 
 Apaches came to us, to accompany them. With the 
 exception of a different style in their boots, and in the 
 manner of arranging their hair, their dress appeared 
 the same. Their bows, arrows, and lances were the 
 same, and the helmet-shaped head-dress did not mate- 
 rially differ. The Navajos had a very fine description 
 of woollen blanket of their own manufacture, which 
 they use to cover their bodies when it is cold, as well 
 
330 INCIDENTS AT THE 
 
 as for saddle cloths. These blankets are superior to 
 any native fabric I have ever seen ; in fact, they are 
 quite equal to the best English blankets, except that 
 they are without any nap. I have been told that 
 they spin and dye the wool, which they raise them- 
 selves; though others assert that the richer colors are 
 obtained by unravelling fine scarlet blankets of Eng- 
 lish manufacture, the threads of which are then used 
 in the weaving of their own. Whether this is true or 
 not I am unable to state. At any rate, even if true, 
 this forms but a very small portion of the fabric, the 
 remainder of which is undoubtedly spun and woven 
 by themselves. 
 
 We had some little bartering with these people, 
 giving them shirts and other articles of wearing 
 apparel for their bows and arrows, and caps, and 
 some of our party were so fortunate as to obtain some 
 fine specimens of their blankets. I got a small one of 
 inferior quality, but sufficient to show the style of their 
 manufacture. 
 
 Many believed that the Navajos who visited us on 
 the occasion referred to, were but spies to learn our 
 numbers, and see whether any thing could be gained 
 by attacking us; a belief in which I participated, and 
 which subsequent events strengthened. We never 
 saw them after. 
 
 July 5th. One of the cooks disappeared last night, 
 taking with him a fine horse, one of Colt's large revolv- 
 ers, and sundry articles of clothing. He was pursued 
 by Mr. White and another, who overtook him on 
 the plains two days after, recovered the horse and 
 pistol, and left him to find his way to the settlements 
 as he could. 
 
COPPER MINES. 331 
 
 On the 6th July, another incident of a more serious 
 nature occurred, which bade fair to break up the 
 friendly intercourse with our Indian friends, and bring 
 us to open warfare. About one o'clock word was 
 brought to me, that an Indian had been shot by Jesus 
 Lopez, the Mexican teamster to whom I have before 
 alluded. I at once ran to my door, and saw the 
 greatest consternation in the place. The Indians, of 
 which there were many about us at the time, were 
 screaming and running in all directions, as though 
 fearful of a general rising and massacre of their people. 
 Our own party too were in great alarm, and every 
 man ran for his arms, not knowing but that the Indians, 
 who had so often been treacherously dealt with by the 
 whites, might at once attack us, to be revenged for 
 the loss of their companion. Mangus Colorado, Delga- 
 dito and Coletto Amarillo,* who were in our camp, 
 seized their arms, and, mounting animals, retreated to 
 a small hill a few hundred yards from the fort, where 
 they stopped to see what was to follow, and make 
 their escape in case of necessity. Many of their peo- 
 ple crowded around them for protection and guidance. 
 Some remained many minutes beckoning to them to 
 come back ; and assuring them that they would not 
 be hurt. They remained quiet until Colonel Craig, 
 with the courage and resolution which he exhibited 
 in every trying scene, advanced alone towards them, 
 told them he' and all of us were still their friends, and 
 
 * These it will be perceived are all Spanish names : Mangus Colo-, 
 rado, meaning Bed Sleeve ; Delgadito, slender ; and Coletto Amarillo, 
 yellmvtail. 
 
332 INCIDENTS AT THE 
 
 invited them to the garrison where the man who had 
 shot one of their people should be brought before 
 them. They at once came forward ; and while we all 
 stood on the parade ground in front of the garrison, 
 the prisoner was brought up with his feet in chains, 
 by a file of soldiers. We then passed in to the quar- 
 ters of Colonel Craig, for an examination of the case. 
 On questioning the prisoner why he had shot the 
 Indian, he made no reply, except to say on returning 
 from the Mimbres, some Indians whom he met had 
 threatened to kill him ; although he did not pretend 
 to say that the man he had shot was the one. 
 
 It appeared on examination, that Gordon, a cook, 
 was the only person who witnessed the affair. He 
 states that there was some dispute between Jesus and 
 the Indian, about a whip belonging to the latter, and 
 which the former wished to buy. Jesus had the whip 
 under his arm, and on failing to agree about it, the 
 Indian attempted to pull it from him. The Mexican, 
 becoming enraged, first picked up a stone, and then 
 seized his rifle. He levelled it at the Indian, when 
 scarcely beyond the reach of the muzzle, and delibe- 
 rately shot him down, the ball passing through his 
 body just above the heart. Jesus ran to the Indian's 
 horse which stood near the tent, intending to make 
 his escape. Mr. J. B. Stewart, who was not far off, 
 and heard the report levelled his rifle, threatening to 
 shoot him if he stirred. The fellow stopped, and the 
 next moment was a prisoner. When these facts were 
 •made known to Mangus Colorado, and the other 
 chiefs present they were satisfied that the Americans 
 were in no way implicated in the affair, and that it was 
 
COPPER MINES. 333 
 
 a private quarrel between a Mexican and an Indian. 
 They were equally satisfied when assured that the 
 prisoner should be kept in chains, and punished if the 
 man died ; and the conference ended in good feel- 
 ing. The chief, Ponce, made a long speech on the 
 occasion, and said they "all believed it the work of 
 one bad man, and that the Commission had nothing to 
 do with it." "If the man died, they should require 
 the punishment of the murderer. If he lived, the 
 Mexican should be compelled to labor, and the pro- 
 ceeds of it be given to the family of the wounded man, 
 as a remuneration for the loss of his services." 
 
 The wounded man was taken to the hospital where 
 he was attended by the surgeons of the Commission 
 and the escort, and the best possible care taken of 
 him. His wife and mother were in constant attend- 
 ance, and his friends had access to him at all times. 
 The chiefs were in daily, and expressed their satisfac- 
 tion with my course. The poor man lingered for a 
 month when he died. I ordered a coffin made for 
 him, and intended having him decently buried; but 
 his friends, refusing both the coffin and burial, laid 
 him across a mule and carried him to their camp for 
 interment, according to their own customs. 
 
 The Indians now waited upon us in considerable 
 numbers, accompanied by their chiefs, and demanded 
 that the prisoner should at once be delivered into 
 their hands. I told them that as the offence was com- 
 mitted in our territory, the man must be punished 
 according to our laws. Most of the chiefs were assem- 
 bled on this occasion, and presented a strange and 
 picturesque appearance, as they were distributed about 
 
334 INCIDENTS AT THE 
 
 my quarters in various attitudes. Some standing, 
 others sitting on benches, while the larger number 
 adopted the common Indian position of sitting on their 
 haunches with their knees drawn up before them, 
 clasped by their hands. Had there been room to lie 
 down, that posture would have been preferred. They 
 came professedly as advocates of the woman's cause, 
 and would listen to nothing but the unconditional 
 delivery of the murderer, preferring their demand 
 with considerable eloquence. Three or four would 
 start upon the same point together, and he who could 
 talk the fastest would be allowed to go on with the 
 subject. As in the former controversy with these peo- 
 ple, the arguments between the chiefs and myself were 
 taken down. I began by addressing them through 
 Mr. John C. Cremony, the interpreter of the Commis- 
 sion, as follows : 
 
 " I feel sad, as well as all the Americans here, and 
 sympathize with our Apache brothers for the death of 
 one of their braves. We were all friends. The dead 
 man was our friend, and we regret his loss. I know 
 that he had committed no offence ; that he even did 
 not provoke the attack upon him. But our Apache 
 brethren must remember that it was not by the hand 
 of an American that his death was caused. It was by a 
 Mexican, though a man in the employ of the Commis- 
 sion. For this reason it is my duty to see justice done 
 you, and the murderer punished. 
 
 " I am here, as I have told you, in command of the 
 party engaged in making the dividing line between 
 the United States, the country of the. Americans, and 
 Mexico. I have explained this to you fully before, 
 
COPPER MINES. 335 
 
 which you now understand. Beyond this I have no 
 powers. The great chief of the American people lives 
 far, very far, towards the rising sun. From him I 
 received my orders, and those orders I must obey. I 
 cannot interfere in punishing any man, whether an 
 Indian, a Mexican, or an American. There is another 
 great chief who lives at Santa Fe. He is the governor 
 of all New Mexico. This great chief administers the 
 laws of the Americans. He holds a court wherein all 
 persons charged with crimes are judged. He alone 
 can inflict punishment when a man has been found 
 guilty. To this great chief, this governor, I will send 
 the murderer of our Apache brother. He will try 
 him, and, if found guilty, will have him punished 
 according to American laws. Such is all that I can 
 do. Such is the disposition I will make of this man. 
 It is all that I have a right to do." 
 
 Ponce. " This is all very good. The Apaches know 
 that the Americans are their friends. The Apaches 
 believe what the Americans say is true. They know 
 that the Americans do not speak with two tongues. 
 They know that you have never told them a lie. They 
 know that you will do what you say. But the Apaches 
 will not be satisfied to know that the murderer is pun- 
 ished in Santa Fe. They want him punished here, at 
 the Copper Mines, where the band of the dead brave 
 may see him put to death — where all the Apaches 
 may see him put to death (making the sign of being 
 suspended by the neck). Then the Apaches will see 
 and know that their American brothers will do justice 
 to them." 
 
 Commissioner. — " I will propose another plan to 
 
336 INCIDENTS AT THE 
 
 the chiefs and captains of the Apaches. This plan is 
 to keep the murderer in chains, as you now see 
 him ; to make him work, and to give all he earns to the 
 wife and family of your dead brave. This I will see 
 paid in blankets, in cotton, in beads, in corn, in money, 
 or in any thing the family may want. I will give them 
 all that is now due to this man, and at the end of every 
 month, I will give them twenty dollars more in money, 
 or in goods. When the cold season arrives, these 
 women and children will then come in and receive 
 their blankets and cloth to keep them warm, and corn 
 to satisfy their hunger." 
 
 Ponce. — "You speak well. Your promises are 
 fair. But money will not satisfy an Apache for the 
 murder of a brave ! No ! thousands will not drown 
 the grief of this poor woman for the loss of her son. 
 Would money satisfy an American for the murder of 
 his people ? Would money pay you, Senor Commis- 
 sioner, for the loss of your child ? No ! money will 
 not bury your grief. It will not bury ours. The 
 mother of this brave demands the life of the mur- 
 derer. Nothing else will satisfy her. She wants no 
 money. She wants no goods. She wants no corn. 
 Would money satisfy me, Ponce (at the same time 
 striking his breast), for the death of my son ? No ! I 
 would demand the blood of the murderer. Then I 
 would be satisfied. Then would I be willing to die 
 myself. I would not wish to live and bear the grief 
 which the loss of my son would cause me."* 
 
 * This son of Ponce was the finest looking man we saw at the 
 Copper Mines, and the greatest rascal. In an attempt some months 
 
COPPER MINES. 337 
 
 Commissioner. — " Your words are good and true. 
 You speak with a heart full of feeling. I feel as you 
 do. All the Americans feel as you do. Our hearts 
 are sad at your loss. We mourn with this poor woman. 
 We will do all that we can to assist her and her family. 
 I know that neither money nor goods will pay for their 
 loss. I do not want the Apache chiefs, my brothers, 
 so to consider it. What I propose is for the good of 
 this family. My wish is to make them comfortable. 
 I desire to give them the aid of which they are de- 
 prived by the loss of their protector. If the prisoner's 
 life is taken, your desire for revenge is satisfied. Law 
 and justice are satisfied. But this poor woman and 
 her family get nothing. They remain poor. They 
 have no one to labor for them. Will it not be better 
 to provide for their wants ?" 
 
 The chiefs now exchanged views with each other, 
 all having more or less to say ; when Ponce, their prin- 
 cipal speaker, said they had all agreed to leave the 
 matter entirely with the mother of the deceased, and 
 that by her decision they would abide. She evidently 
 desired the life of the prisoner. Her desire for revenge 
 or justice, was more to her than money or goods. The 
 discussion was resumed. 
 
 Ponce. — ■'- If an Apache should take the life of an 
 American, would you not make war on us and take 
 many Apache lives ?" 
 
 Commissioner. — " No ; I would demand the arrest 
 of the murderer, and would be satisfied to have him 
 
 later to run off some mules, he received a rifle ball in his thigh, which 
 or a while checked his thievish propensities. 
 vol. i. — 22 
 
338 INCIDENTS AT THE 
 
 punished, as the Apaches punish those who commit 
 murder. Did not a band of Apaches attack a small 
 party of Americans, my countrymen, very lately on 
 the Janos road? Did they not kill one of them, and 
 pierce three others with their arrows ? And did they 
 not take from them all their property ? Yes ; you all 
 know it to be true, and I know it to be true. I passed 
 near the spot where it took place, three days after. 
 The Apaches did not even bury their victim ; they left 
 him lying by the road-side, food for the wolves and 
 crows. Why do not the Americans revenge them- 
 selves on you for this act ? They are strong enough 
 to do it. They have many soldiers, and in a few days 
 can bring a thousand more here. But there would be 
 no justice in that. The Americans believe this murder 
 was committed by your bad men ; by cowards. The 
 Apaches have bad men among them; but you who are 
 now with us are our friends, and we will not demand 
 redress of you. Yet, as I told you before, you must 
 endeavor to find the men who killed our brother, and 
 punish them. Our animals feed in your valleys ; some 
 of your bad men might steal them, as they have already 
 done ; but the Americans would not make war on you 
 for this. We hold you responsible, and shall call on 
 you to find them and bring them back, as you have 
 done. While the Apaches continue to do this, the 
 Americans will be their friends and brothers. But if 
 the Apaches take their property and you do not restore 
 it, you can no longer be the friends of the Americans. 
 War will then follow ; thousands of soldiers will take 
 possession of your best lands, your grass valleys, and 
 your watering-places. They will destroy every Apache 
 
COPPER MINES. 339 
 
 they find, and take your women and children cap- 
 tives." 
 
 The discussion continued in this manner for two 
 hours, the chiefs showing much sagacity in arguing 
 their point. The matter was finally settled very much 
 to my satisfaction, and apparently to that of the In- 
 dians, by my paying to the mother of the deceased 
 thirty dollars in money, that being the amount due 
 the prisoner. I furthermore agreed to pay her twenty 
 dollars a month, hereafter, the amount of the prisoner's 
 wages. Thus was terminated this unfortunate affair, 
 which, at one time, seemed about to destroy the good 
 understanding which had existed between the members 
 of the Commission and our Indian friends. 
 
340 INCIDENTS AT THE 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 INCIDENTS AT THE COPPER MINES. 
 
 Arrival of Mr. A. B. Gray — Meeting of Joint Commission — Objections of 
 Mr. Gray to initial point — Mules missing — Arrival of Colonel Graham 
 — Mules stolen from Fronteras — Descent of the Apaches on the Mule 
 herd — Organization of parties for the Survey — Application to Colonel 
 Sumner for more troops — Hostile attitude of the Indians — Second in- 
 cursion of the Indians — Mules taken — Colonel Craig goes in pursuit — 
 Arrival of Captain Buford with dragoons to our aid — Indians pursued 
 by Colonel Craig and Captain Buford — Third incursion of the Indians 
 — Volunteer party go in pursuit — Indians overtaken and cattle re- 
 covered — Apache chief recognized among the robbers — Determine to 
 set out for the Gila. 
 
 On the 19 th July, Mr. A. B. Gray, United States Sur- 
 veyor, Mr. Charles Radziminski, his principal assistant, 
 and Lieutenant Burnside, U. S. Army, Quarter- master 
 and Commissary, arrived. These gentlemen had come 
 in the same party with Colonel Graham, whom they left 
 at El Paso, and I felt greatly disappointed at the non- 
 arrival of that officer, for whom more than two thirds 
 of the Commission had so long been waiting to enter 
 upon their duties. General Conde, the Mexican Com- 
 missioner, with some of his party, arrived at the same 
 time, in order to make arrangements for going on with 
 the Gila Survey, which had been so long delayed. 
 
 Mr. Gray presented his instructions from the Secre- 
 tary of the Interior, and made known his readiness to 
 
COPPER MINES. 341 
 
 go on with his work. I therefore instructed him to 
 organize a party for the linear Survey of the Gila, 
 and to make the necessary arrangements for wagons, 
 mules, horses, camp-equipage, subsistence, etc., which 
 would be furnished him by the Quarter-master and 
 Commissary, of the Commission. He lost no time in 
 complying with my instructions, but at once selected 
 his assistants, and prepared to take the field. 
 
 The day after the arrival of Mr. Surveyor Gray and 
 General Conde, a meeting of the Joint Commission 
 took place, when arrangements were entered into to 
 commence the survey of the Gila, the General and 
 his assistants, on the part of the Mexican Commission, 
 undertaking the astronomical portion, while Mr. Gray, 
 with his corps of engineers and surveyors, was to 
 make the linear survey. We now only required the 
 arrival of Colonel Graham to organize an astronomical 
 force on the part of the United States. 
 
 On the 25th of July, Mr. Gray addressed me a let- 
 ter objecting to the Initial Point agreed upon by the 
 Joint Commission, at 32° 22' north latitude on the Rio 
 Grande, which had been established and marked on 
 the 24th of April preceding, and from which the line 
 had been extended west by Lieutenant Whipple. He 
 advised a suspension of the work. 
 
 I replied to Mr. Gray, that on a further examina- 
 tion I was satisfied that the Initial Point on the Rio 
 Grande had been established according to the treaty, 
 and that I should adhere to the agreement entered 
 into relating to it. I soon after, on the 8th of August, 
 advised the Secretary of the Interior of Mr. Gray's 
 objections. 
 
342 INCIDENTS AT THE 
 
 On the receipt of my letter and the objections of Mr. 
 Gray to the proceedings of the Joint Commission and 
 the Initial Point as established at 32° 22', the Secre- 
 tary of the Interior, the Hon. Alex. H. H. Stuart, 
 requested Mr. Gray " to remove the only obstacle 
 which now exists to the completion of this branch of 
 the work, by affixing his signature to the requisite 
 papers." As this and other official documents are 
 important for a clear understanding of this question, 
 and as they are inaccessible to the large mass of 
 readers, I have thought it best to append them at this 
 place in the form of notes, without entering into any 
 argument on the subject. The official acts establishing 
 the Initial Point have been before given, and would 
 be incomplete without the following letters, all of 
 which have been printed in the documents of the 
 United States Senate." 
 
 * Mr. Gray's letter of July 25th, 1851, containing his objections to 
 the Initial Point may be found in Senate Document No. 119, 3 2d Con- 
 gress, 1st Session, p. 279. My letter to Mr. Secretary Stuart, relating 
 to the Initial Point, is contained in the same document, p. 145. 
 
 Secretary Stuart to Surveyor Gray. 
 
 Department of the Interior, 
 October 31, 1851. 
 
 Sir : In relation to the temporary suspension of the work connected 
 with the Mexican Boundary Survey, growing out of your refusal to affix 
 your signature to the necessary papers establishing the Initial Point for 
 the demarkation of the line at 32° 22 ; , you are informed, that inasmuch 
 as the Commissioners appointed by their respective governments to 
 run and mark the boundary line between the United States and Mexico 
 were not necessarily constrained to suspend all operations connected 
 with the Survey during your absence, and until your recovery from the 
 
COPPER MINES. 343 
 
 On the 28th July, several mules belonging to Colo- 
 nel Craig, disappeared and could not be found ; and as 
 he believed the Apaches had been instrumental in 
 driving them off, he determined to go in search of 
 
 indisposition with -which you were afflicted, those officers progressed 
 with the work intrusted to them, and fixed the Initial Point of said line 
 on the meridian of latitude referred to. 
 
 As the Commissioners coincide in opinion respecting the correct- 
 ness of their operations and their results, and are satisfied that the 
 Initial Point has been accurately ascertained and determined, it is very 
 desirable that the official documents necessary to the settlement of this 
 important point should be at once perfected ; you are requested, there- 
 fore, to remove the only obstacle which now exists to the completion 
 of this branch of the work, by affixing your signature to the requisite 
 papers. 
 
 I am, &c, 
 
 ALEX. H. H. STUART, 
 
 Secretary. 
 A. B. Gray, Esq., 
 
 U. S. Surveyor, &c. 
 
 Secretary Stuart to Major Emory. 
 
 Department of the Interior, 
 
 November 4, 1851. 
 
 Sir: I transmit herewith your commission as Surveyor, under 
 the 5th article of the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, to run and mark 
 the boundary line between the United States and Mexico, also a copy 
 of a letter this day addressed to John R. Bartlett, Esq., United States 
 Commissioner, containing explanations respecting your position and 
 duties. 
 
 I also inclose a copy of my letter of the 31st ultimo, to A. B. Gray, 
 Esq., late Surveyor ; and in the event of his persisting in his refusal to 
 affix his signature to the necessary papers for the establishment of the 
 Initial Point for the demarkation of the boundary line as ascertained 
 and agreed upon by the Commissioners of the two Governments, I have 
 
344 INCIDENTS AT THE 
 
 them at once. On the morning of the 29th, he set off 
 with thirty soldiers for the Apache Camp, on the Mim- 
 bres. On the appearance of a military force among 
 them, the Indians became much alarmed, and assured 
 
 to request you will sign the official documents which have been pre- 
 pared for the purpose, and which only require the signature of the Sur- 
 veyor to settle this important point. 
 I am, &c, 
 
 Brevet Major Wm. H. Emory, 
 
 United States Surveyor, &c. 
 
 ALEX. H. H. STUART, 
 
 Secretary. 
 
 Mr. Gray having been removed before he had an opportunity to affix 
 his signature to the boundary document as directed ; Major Emory 
 obeyed the instructions of the Secretary of the Interior, as appears by 
 his letter to that officer, which may be found in Senate Doc. No. 6, 
 Special Session, 1853. 
 
 Extract from Major Emory's Letter. 
 
 Camp near Fort Duncan, 
 
 October 1, 1852. 
 
 * * * On my reaching the ground to take charge of the Survey, 
 November, 1851, I found that Mr. Bartlett and the assistant Surveyor 
 had agreed upon the Initial Point, 32° 22 ; , and that a great stone monu- 
 ment had been erected, marking the point, and having the usual inscrip- 
 tions, and the names of the American and Mexican Commissioners, 
 Astronomers, and Surveyors. 
 
 The Surveyor (Mr. Gray) came out long after the Initial Point was 
 agreed upon, and the monument erected and the line begun, relieving 
 the acting Surveyor (Lieutenant Whipple), and protested against the 
 point. With the protest and the views of the Commission before him, 
 both sides, it is presumed fairly stated, the Hon. Secretary instructed 
 the Surveyor to sign the maps ; but before the instructions reached him 
 he was relieved, and I was appointed in his place, with the same instruc- 
 tions. 
 
 I therefore considered the matter as settled, and the action of the 
 
COPPER MINES. 345 
 
 the Colonel they had not been instrumental in stealing 
 his mules, nor did they know any thing about them. 
 Upon their promise to go in search of them, and if 
 found to bring them in, Colonel Craig returned to the 
 fort. 
 
 Government as final. The official documents which have been prepared 
 for the purpose, referred to in my letter of appointment and instructions, 
 never having been presented, no action has been taken in the matter defi- 
 nitely and finally to " settle this important point." I quote from my 
 instructions, for as I shall presently show, it has, by the views taken of 
 the subject by both sides, ceased to be an important point. 
 
 But I have done this in compliance with the letter and spirit of 
 my instructions. Mr. Salazar, the Mexican Commissioner and Sur- 
 veyor, met me at the Presidio del Norte, Aug'ust 1st, to sign the maps of the 
 Rio Grand — forming the boundary. Neither party had the maps pro- 
 perly prepared, nor was Mr. Salazar at all prepared in money or means 
 to go on with the work at the rate I was progressing. I had already 
 signed, conjointly with him, as astronomer and surveyor, the only maps 
 fit for signature ; but he remained pressing me to sign other maps which 
 involve incidentally the Initial Point agreed upon by Mr. Bartlett, Mr. 
 Conde, Mr. Salazar, and Mr. Whipple, from which Col. Graham had 
 started his survey of the river. / therefore, on the 28th of August, 
 signed the maps according to my instructions, with the reservation con- 
 tained in the paper, a copy of which is herewith sent, marked A., signed 
 conjointly by Mr. Salazar and myself, and the statement therein refer- 
 red to, setting forth on the face of the maps that it was the " boundary'''' 
 agreed upon by the two Commissioners, April 20, 1851." 
 
 I presume it was never intended I should give my certificate, as 
 Astronomer and Surveyor, to the correctness of the determination of a 
 point which had been determined by the observation of others, and with- 
 out consultation or advice of mine. On the other hand, I do not for a 
 moment doubt the power of the Government to instruct me on the subject, 
 or hesitate as to my duty to obey its mandates, which I understand as 
 requiring me only to authenticate the Initial Point agreed upon by the 
 Commissioners of the two Governments. 
 
 In reference to the importance of the point, I think it as well to 
 
346 INCIDENTS AT THE 
 
 On the 2d August, Colonel Graham, Principal As- 
 tronomer, Lieutenants Whipple and Smith, and several 
 other gentlemen arrived, and encamped near the fort. 
 
 On the 7th August, word was brought me that 
 eight or ten of our mules which were kept at the As- 
 tronomical Observatory at Frontera, near El Paso, had 
 been stolen by the Indians; and the following day 
 Lieutenant Green set off with a file of soldiers for So- 
 corro, in order to intercept the robbers. 
 
 Four days after this, our camps were aroused with 
 the news that the Indians had made a descent upon the 
 mules belonging to Colonel Craig's command, which 
 were grazing, in charge of three or four men, about a 
 mile from the fort, and had run off about twenty-five 
 together with some valuable horses. As soon as a party 
 could be got ready they set off in pursuit, but after a 
 few hours returned unsuccessful. One of the men who 
 
 state that the line agreed upon by the Commissioners, April, 1851, is 
 about thirty-three minutes north of the line contended for as that laid 
 down on Disturnell's map, but reached about sixteen minutes of an 
 arc further west ; and as both lines run three degrees of longitude west, 
 the difference of territory is three degrees of longitude, multiplied by 
 thirty-three minutes of latitude, minus sixteen minutes of longitude, mul- 
 tiplied by about forty minutes of latitude, each having a middle lati- 
 tude that may for the purpose of computation be assumed at thirty-two 
 degrees. Neither line gives us the road to California, and the country 
 embraced in the area of difference, with the exception of a strip along the 
 Rio Grande about nine miles long and from one to two wide, is barren, 
 and will not produce wheat, corn, grapes, trees, or any thing useful as 
 food for man or for clothing. 
 
 Neither line will give a channel of communication for posts along 
 the frontier, without which it is impracticable to comply with the elev- 
 enth article of the treaty, which engages the United States to keep the 
 Indians out of Mexico. 
 
COPPER MINES. 347 
 
 was left with the mules was missing ; but whether he 
 was killed or taken away prisoner, is not known. He 
 was never seen or heard of after. 
 
 The manner in which the theft was accomplished, 
 was thus related to me by one of the herders: The 
 animals were grazing in a little valley, surrounded by 
 low pine trees and scrub oaks, when on a sudden a 
 party of Indians who had approached unperceived 
 among the trees, which were here very thick, rushed 
 among the herd, set up a whoop that frightened the 
 timid mules, and drove them off. The Indians were 
 all mounted ; and before the herdsmen could gain 
 their saddles, they had the mules and horses on the 
 full run before them. The herdsmen had no resource 
 but to collect such animals as were left, and hastened 
 with them to our camp. 
 
 On the arrival of Colonel Graham, as mentioned 
 above, arrangements were entered into as soon as pos- 
 sible for going on with the work which had been so 
 long delayed in consequence of his absence, and that 
 of Mr. Gray. One astronomical and two surveying 
 parties were organized for the survey of the Rio Grande, 
 all of which were to be under the direction of Colonel 
 Graham. The work was to be commenced at the 
 Initial Point, and carried to the mouth of that river. 
 The astronomical party for the survey of the Gila was 
 placed in charge of Lieutenant A. W. Whipple ; while 
 that for the linear survey remained under the principal 
 Surveyor, A. B. Gray, Esq.* With this organization 
 
 * Although. I have embraced in this narrative the particulars relat- 
 ing to the establishment of the Initial Point, I do not think it proper to 
 
348 INCIDENTS AT THE 
 
 we hastened to get our wagons, mules, tents, camp 
 equipage, provisions, etc., ready in order to take the 
 field as soon as possible. 
 
 While these arrangements were in progress, I sent 
 a messenger to Santa Fe, with a letter to Colonel Sum- 
 ner, commanding the troops in that military division, 
 with a request that another company might be fur- 
 nished me for an additional escort. This, on consul- 
 tation with the army officers, was deemed actually 
 necessary. Our present escort had been greatly 
 reduced by desertions and sickness, so that there were 
 less than forty effective men. We were now about to 
 
 enter into the particulars of the serious difficulties which took place 
 between the Principal Astronomer, Colonel Graham, and myself, imme- 
 diately on his arrival, growing out of his extraordinary and inexcusable 
 delay of more than nine months from his appointment, in reaching the 
 field of oj>erations, and of his assumption afterwards. Never, in the 
 whole course of my life, have I been placed in so trying a position. But 
 such were my instructions, and such my responsibilities as head of the 
 Commission, that I must either maintain this position, or, in succumbing 
 to the demands of Colonel Graham, make myself and the Chief Surveyor, 
 Mr. Gray, subordinate to him, resign all power and control on the mem- 
 bers of the Commission, and become a mere nullity. I preferred 
 the former alternative ; and in order to lay the matter before the 
 Government, and abide its approval or disapproval, I sent Mr. Charles 
 Radziminski, the Principal Assistant Engineer, to Washington with my 
 dispatches. These unfortunate difficulties with Colonel Graham, most 
 of which was owing to contention for rank and position between Mr. 
 Gray and himself, greatly retarded the progress of the Survey, and caused 
 much suffering to the parties engaged on the Gila portion of the work. 
 The Government sustained me in my position, and removed Colonel 
 Graham, appointing Major W. H. Emory in his place. The Correspon- 
 dence on this subject maybe found in Senate Document No. 119, 32d 
 Congress, 1st Session — and particularly in my Dispatch to the Hon. Sec- 
 retary of the Interior, No. 21, page 433 of the same document. 
 
COPPER MINES. 349 
 
 enter a field in the midst of hostile Indians, where we 
 should be divided necessarily, into several small par- 
 ties, thereby subjecting ourselves to the danger of 
 losing our animals' as well as of being attacked una- 
 wares. Before leaving Washington, the Secretary of 
 War directed the Commanding Officer at El Paso, to 
 detail an additional company for the escort, in case the 
 Indians " have assumed a more hostile attitude towards 
 the Americans, in the region through which the lines 
 of the Survey are to be made." I now believed that 
 such an exigency had occurred ; for more robberies 
 had been committed on the frontier than for some 
 time previous, and the Commission, as well as its 
 escort had met with losses within a few days, which 
 showed that either the Apaches or some other tribes 
 entertained inimical designs towards us. But my 
 request was not complied with. 
 
 Since the visit of Colonel Craig to their camp in 
 search of his mules, the Indians had been more 
 reserved, and for a week previous to the 17th August, 
 none had visited us. On the afternoon of that day a 
 man who had been herding the mules and cattle about 
 six miles from the Copper Mines, suddenly rode in 
 with the news, that a descent had just been made upon 
 them by a band of Indians, and that about fifty of the 
 best mules had been driven off. Our men fortunately 
 secured between seventy and eighty, by driving them 
 into a corral or inclosure as soon as they discovered 
 the enemy. But the rest were past recovery; for had 
 the men attempted to pursue them, they would have 
 been overpowered, and have lost the remainder of the 
 stock. 
 
350 INCIDENTS AT THE 
 
 As may be supposed, this news produced a great 
 excitement in our camp. Immediate preparations 
 were made to pursue the robbers, and Colonel Craig 
 with his usual promptness set off at midnight, with 
 between twenty and thirty men, which were all that 
 we could mount. Unfortunately we possessed few 
 good horses, and there was no alternative but to 
 mount the soldiers on mules. My only hope was that 
 the Indians would not go far, finding they were 
 not at once pursued, which would enable Colonel 
 Craig to overtake them, or surprise them in the 
 camp. He soon struck the trail of the robbers, to 
 which he was guided by Tucker, one of the herders 
 who had followed them for several miles. About 
 thirty miles beyond the Gila, the Colonel surprised 
 two camps ; but discovering his approach, the Indians 
 made off, and, by scattering in every direction, as is 
 usual in such cases, eluded further pursuit. Their 
 fires were still burning, with mule meat and corn half 
 roasted about them. His men also found some blan- 
 kets such as are made by the Navajos, which caused 
 him to attribute the robbery to that tribe. The Nava- 
 jos were known to be in force to the amount of about 
 four hundred near the Gila, and I believed the Colo- 
 nel's inference to be correct. 
 
 On the day this robbery took place, I sent a mes- 
 senger to Major Shepard, commanding at Dona Ana, 
 advising him of the depredation of the Indians, and 
 soliciting such aid as it might be in his power to 
 extend to us in the emergency. He promptly attended 
 to my request, and on the 2 2d instant Captain Buford 
 arrived with his company of forty Dragoons. 
 
COPPER MINES. 351 
 
 The following day Colonel Craig again set out with 
 some eight or ten men, being all that he could mount, 
 together with Captain Buford and his command. A 
 few civilians joined the party as volunteers. All were 
 well mounted and armed, and carried their provisions 
 and camp equipage on pack mules. They took no 
 tents, and as little baggage as possible. 
 I The loss of so many animals at this particular junc- 
 •ture was a most serious additional impediment to the 
 movements of the Commission. We had had no more 
 than were absolutely necessary, and now some of the* 
 parties must necessarily be delayed until others could 
 be procured. Nevertheless, I was determined to get 
 off, if we had any means of going, and the necessary 
 preparations for the journey proceeded. That General 
 Conde might not be disappointed by my not meeting 
 him at the Burro Mountains according to agreement, I 
 despatched Mr. James Steele and Mr. Scott, assistants 
 in the Surveying corps, to his camp to make known to 
 him our losses by the Indians, which might delay us a 
 few days beyond the time. But we had not yet got 
 through our troubles. 
 
 On the morning of the 24th August, the alarming 
 intelligence was brought us, that the Indians had 
 entered the valley where the animals were grazing, 
 about half a mile from the fort, and had run off all the 
 mules and horses belonging to Colonel Craig, together 
 with the eighteen mules used by Captain Buford, to 
 transport his wagons from Dona Ana. Great conster- 
 nation was caused by this news, particularly as it was 
 followed by a report that the Indians were endeavor- 
 ing to drive off our cattle, of which we had nearly a 
 
352 INCIDENTS AT THE 
 
 hundred head. We seized our arms, and ran to the 
 hills near the canon, where we discovered the cattle 
 urged on by the herdsmen, and making through the 
 trees and bushes for our camp, where we soon had the 
 satisfaction of seeing them safely inclosed. An hour 
 later we heard that a descent had also been made upon 
 the horses and cattle belonging to Mr. Hay, who with 
 a small party, was engaged in working the gold mines, 
 four miles distant ; and soon after the family of this 
 gentleman, arrived with all their effects, corroborating 
 what we had heard. They informed us that all Mr. 
 Hay's cattle had been run off, and that he and his 
 people had armed themselves and gone in pursuit. A 
 volunteer party from the Commission soon joined 
 them, embracing some fifteen or twenty persons, and 
 among them Lieutenant Whipple. They pressed the 
 Indians so hard that they overtook them just at dark, 
 after a flight of thirty miles. As in the former instance, 
 they abandoned the cattle, and scattered in all direc- 
 tions. The cattle of Mr. Hay, twenty -two in number, 
 were recovered ; and a horse and mule belonging to 
 the Indians were also taken. The party with the 
 mules having two hours the start, could not be over- 
 taken. 
 
 Our place was now in a state of siege. The camps 
 of the several surveying parties, which had been scat- 
 tered through the valley, were brought into the neigh- 
 borhood of the fort ; picket guards were stationed 
 upon the commanding eminences ; arms were cleaned, 
 and ammunition distributed ; and every precaution 
 taken to repel an attack ; for it was thought that the 
 Indians, who are ever on the alert, seeing so large a 
 
COPPER MINES. 353 
 
 force leave the place, might suppose it defenceless, 
 and make a descent upon those who remained. 
 
 There could be no doubt as to who the depreda- 
 tors were in this case, as Mr. Hay was present when 
 his cattle were taken, and had a parley with the well- 
 known chief, Delgadito, who stood at a distance beyond 
 the reach of his rifle. These robberies were, there- 
 fore, committed by the very Indians who had been 
 fed by us, and had received every kindness at our 
 hands. We had the charity, however, to believe that 
 they were set on by the Navajos, as it was predicted 
 that the appearance of this tribe boded no good. 
 
 About one hundred and fifty animals had been 
 stolen, a part of them almost within sight of the fort ; 
 showing, if it needed any demonstration, the utter use- 
 lessness and inefficiency of our infantry escort for such 
 a service. Had my last application for a company of 
 dragoons been complied with we should have saved 
 these animals; as my messenger had returned from 
 Santa Fe before any robberies had been committed, 
 except that of the few mules lost by Colonel Craig in 
 July. 
 
 In consequence of our last loss, Lieutenant Green 
 informed me that it would be impossible to furnish 
 the escort required for the protection of the Gila party, 
 as he was deprived of all means to transport their pro- 
 visions and camp equipage, even though the men 
 should walk. After the return of Colonel Craig,. 
 who might be absent two weeks, it would be neces- 
 sary for Lieutenant Green to go to the towns on the 
 Rio Grande to purchase a new outfit of mules and. 
 
 horses. In this state of things, it was evident that if 
 vol. i. — 23 
 
354 INCIDENTS AT THE COPPER MINES. 
 
 I waited for the escort I must delay my departure at 
 least a month, thereby deranging the plans of the 
 Mexican Commission by failing to keep my engage- 
 ment with them, and retarding our own work to so 
 laie a period that it might be impossible to complete 
 the survey of the Gila before winter set in. 
 
 In the midst of all these difficulties, I determined 
 to push forward with the work, and notified Mr. Gray 
 and Lieute.nant Whipple, the chiefs of the parties that 
 were to accompany me, to be in readiness to leave on 
 the 27th instant. Colonel Graham, whose parties had 
 also been organized for the survey of the Rio Grande, 
 and were then awaiting his orders to enter the field, 
 informed me that he wouid accompany me to the camp 
 of General Conde, in order "to pay his respects" to 
 that officer, and to his friend Mr. .Salazar. 
 
 At this time our supply of provisions at the Cop- 
 per Mines was very limited ; but as a train of wagons 
 sent to our depot near El Paso for provisions was 
 expected in three or four days, with an ample .supply, 
 I determined to start with only about ten days' rations 
 of flour, sugar, coffee, pork, etc., leaving orders for 
 the remainder to be sent forward immediately on its 
 arrival. Of fresh meat we had an abundant supply, 
 taking with us twenty-five head of beef cattle, and one 
 hundred and eighty sheep. 
 
THE COPPER MINES TO RIO SAN PEDRO. 355 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 THE COPPER MINES TO RIO SAN PEDRO. 
 
 Organization of parties for the Survey of the Gila — Leave the Copper 
 Mines — Pack-mules — Mode of Packing — Ojo de Vaca — Camp in the 
 Burro Mountains — Ojo de Inez — Grizzly Bear — Violent rain — Heavy 
 travelling — La Piloncillo, or Sugar-loaf Mountain — Broad plain — Camp 
 at El Sauce — Man missing — Camp in the Chiricahui Mountains — 
 Boggy road — Want of water — Dry lake — Beach the Mexican Camp — 
 Meeting of the Joint Commission — Mr. Gray's objection to the Boun- 
 dary — March resumed — Mules abandoned — Reach San Pedro Biver — 
 Its character. 
 
 The journey we were now about to undertake was 
 entirely different from any we had yet made. Since 
 leaving the coast in Texas we had, except for eight 
 days, followed a well marked and beaten road, practi- 
 cable for wagons, and which was constantly followed 
 by trains of emigrants passing to California. Now we 
 had first to traverse a broad tract of country between 
 us and the Gila, where there was no road, or even a 
 trail ; ignorant as to the existence of water or grass, 
 or even whether it would be possible to reach our 
 place of destination with the wagons. It was neces- 
 sary to strike the Gila near the point where it is inter- 
 sected by the western boundary of New Mexico, or in 
 longitude 109° 47' west from Greenwich. It was 
 known that this river had its rise in lofty mountains, 
 through which it ran for nearly two hundred miles of 
 
356 
 
 THE COPPER MINES 
 
 the portion to be surveyed; and hence our uncertainty 
 as to the best mode to be adopted for conveying our 
 equipage and supplies. As the Copper Mines are at 
 an elevation of six thousand two hundred and fifty 
 feet above the level of the sea, there must necessarily 
 be great descents before reaching the lower plains. 
 But the great advantage which wagons possess over 
 every other means of transportation, where it is possi- 
 ble to get through with them, induced me to use them 
 as far as possible, at the same time keeping well pro- 
 vided with pack-mules in case of emergency. 
 
 The parties for the survey of the Gila were organ- 
 ized as follows : 
 
 1st Assistants. 
 
 2d Assistants. 
 
 Andrew B. Gray, U. S. Surveyor in charge of 
 party for the Linear Survey. 
 
 John Bull, 
 
 J. H. Prioleau, 
 
 Malcolm Seaton, 
 
 James Steel, 
 
 James T. Scott, 
 
 Wm. A. Taylor, 
 William Bausman, Clerk and Assistant. 
 Eight laborers and servants; two stonecutters; one 
 blacksmith ; one carpenter ; two cooks ; three arrieros, 
 and one teamster. 
 
 Lieut. A. W. Whipple, Topog. Engrs. in charge of 
 the Astronomical and Topographical party. 
 
 Henry C. Force, 
 
 Frank Wheaton, 
 
 Hugh Campbell, 
 
 John O'Donoghue, d 
 
 ■ Assistants. 
 
TO RIO SAN PEDRO. 357 
 
 Three instrument carriers ; five laborers and servants ; 
 two cooks ; three arrieros and herders ; one teamster. 
 To drive the twenty -five head of cattle and one hun- 
 dred and eighty sheep, three men were employed. 
 
 My immediate party consisted of the following : 
 
 Thomas H. Webb, Secretary of the Joint Commis- 
 sion, Surgeon, and Mineralogist. 
 
 John C. Cremony, Interpreter. 
 
 Henry C. Pratt, Draughtsman. 
 
 George Thurber, Quarter-master, Commissary, and 
 Botanist. 
 
 John J. Pbatt, Assistant (afterwards transferred 
 to Lieutenant Whipple). 
 
 One cook; two laborers and servants ; three arrieros. 
 
 The whole party, including myself, made fifty- 
 seven persons, to which I must add the captive girl, 
 Inez Gonzales, whom I meant to send to her family at 
 Santa Cruz when we should be near that place. My 
 original intention had been to take the larger portion 
 of the military escort with me ; and Colonel Craig had 
 made his arrangements accordingly, and intended to 
 accompany it himself, leaving Lieutenant Green with a 
 small detachment for the parties on the Rio Grande, 
 with the hope that additions would be made to it as 
 soon as the recruits came out. But his plans, as well 
 as my own, were frustrated by the depredations of the 
 Indians. To have waited until Colonel Craig could 
 make good his losses would have deferred the expedi- 
 tion for a month at least. I therefore thought it best 
 to hasten on and fulfil my engagements with the Mexi- 
 can Commission, and then proceed to the Gila and 
 commence the survey. I requested Colonel Craig with 
 
358 THE COPPER MINES 
 
 his escort to accompany the train of provisions, which 
 was to follow by the California road under the charge 
 of Captain Barry, and to join the surveying parties at 
 or near the Pimo Villages, on the Gila. This would 
 enable him to send to the settlements and get his 
 mules before our train would leave ; and the surveying 
 parties would merely be deprived of his protection 
 until they should reach that point. 
 
 On the morning of the 27th of August, every thing 
 was in commotion in our several camps, each party 
 making their own arrangements for departing. A 
 full day's march was not contemplated ; to leave our 
 camp and quarters, to get our wagons, mules, tents 
 and camp equipage together, and get a start, was all 
 that we expected to accomplish the first day. 
 
 We had not before used pack mules ; so that this 
 portion of our train and its preparation was a novelty 
 to us.* The mules are first driven up, brought into a 
 line, and tied. The packs for each are arranged, so 
 that each may carry the same weight, and such articles 
 are selected to accompany each other as will ride best 
 together. Thus two trunks or panniers of equal weight 
 are placed together for one animal — cooking utensils 
 in hampers for another — tents, poles and bedding for 
 a third — provisions according to their bulk and weight 
 for others, and so on. These are arranged with much 
 care, and the arriero or muleteer, endeavors to pre- 
 serve the same load for each mule as long as he can. 
 
 * Pack mules are not used in Texas, in the northern portions of 
 Chihuahua, and but little in New Mexico, as the country can be every 
 where traversed with wagons. The poor farmers, however, use them as 
 well as jackasses to carry wood, and for transporting small loads. 
 
TO RIO SAN PEDRO. 359 
 
 This saves much time in packing, and avoids confu- 
 sion. The aparejo or pack-saddle, is a heavy, clumsy 
 affair, stuffed with hay so as to form a large pad on 
 each side of the animal, to protect him from his heavy 
 burden, and weighing from thirty to forty pounds. 
 When all is ready, a blinder is slipped over the eyes 
 of the mule, which renders him perfectly docile. The 
 cumbrous saddle is then thrown over his back, and 
 bound with lashings so firmly, that the body of the 
 beast is brought into the shape of an hour-glass ; after 
 which the load is laid on and secured by a mysterious 
 combination of cords, which none but an arriero can 
 comprehend. These are tightened by the united 
 efforts of two men, who, with one foot against the sad- 
 dle, pull away with their utmost strength. The groans 
 and grunts of the animals as the cords tighten upon 
 them, the jokes and shouts of the arrieros, and occa- 
 sionally the antics of a beast that for a moment has 
 regained its liberty, form a scene which is ever novel 
 and amusing. Now and then, after every thing has 
 been arranged, and a mule has been suffered to walk 
 off with his load, he will lie down and roll, displacing 
 his pack, and putting every thing in disorder. All 
 has then to be taken off, and the process repeated de 
 novo. The arrieros, who are all Mexicans, form a 
 peculiar class, who differ as much from their country- 
 men, as sailors with us do from landsmen. 
 
 Soon after 12 o'clock I left the Copper Mines, in 
 advance with my immediate party, intending to stop 
 at some convenient watering place for the rest. We 
 were ail mounted, including the captive girl, who was 
 placed on a very gentle mule. All the baggage, camp 
 
360 THE COPPER MINES 
 
 equipage, and a portion of our subsistence was carried 
 on the mules. I also had with me a Mexican lancer, 
 whom General Conde had sent to direct us to his 
 camp and to the watering places on the route. When 
 about six miles out I received word from Mr. Gray- 
 that, owing to the heavy load in his wagon, he should 
 be unable to go as far as we had intended, and wished 
 me to encamp soon ; besides which, one of his team- 
 sters had refused to proceed. As it was impossible to 
 send him a man, I ordered that the prisoner Jesus 
 should be set at liberty, and should join Mr. Gray. I 
 felt no longer bound to keep this man in chains and at 
 work, for the benefit of the Indians, who by their rob- 
 beries had forfeited all claim on me. Nor could I send 
 him to Santa Fe for trial. He had behaved himself 
 well ever since ; and as our post at the Copper Mines 
 would soon be broken up, I thought it best to take 
 him with us. 
 
 Being near a spot where there was water and grass, 
 we made our first encampment. Lieutenant Whip- 
 ple and Mr. Gray, with their parties, joined us in the 
 evening. One of Lieutenant W.'s pack mules had 
 started off from the train during the march and disap- 
 peared among the hills. Parties were sent in search 
 but he could not be found. His pack contained the 
 clothing of some of the party, and was a serious loss 
 to them. We had much trouble with our own mules, 
 which kept constantly breaking away ; but they were 
 all finally brought in and secured. 
 
 August 28th. After much time spent in refitting 
 the packs to our mules, which were not yet fairly 
 broken in, we again set out. We were now all toge- 
 
TO RIO SAN PEDRO. 361 
 
 ther, including Colonel Graham's party, which added 
 considerably to our number. This officer had two 
 wagons and an ambulance, several assistants, a corps 
 of laborers, servants, cooks, and a military escort. The 
 train now stretched out for a long distance, as the pack 
 mules followed each other in a single file. The offi- 
 cers and men generally rode side by side; and as the 
 whole party embraced upwards of seventy persons, 
 our cavalcade made quite a respectable appearance. 
 We stopped for an hour at PacJieteju to water our ani- 
 mals, and then pushed on to Ojo cle Vaca, where we 
 encamped. The plains to-day presented a very differ- 
 ent appearance from what they did when we crossed 
 them in May and June before the rains. They were 
 now covered with a rich coat of verdure, and resem- 
 bled the green hills and grassy plains of the North. 
 
 August 2d th. From this place four roads diverge. 
 To the north is the road to the Copper Mines, we had 
 just traversed ; eastward is the one taken by emigrants 
 from New Mexico, and first opened to this place by 
 Colonel Cooke, which continues south-westwardly to 
 the Guadalupe Pass ; and southward runs the road to 
 Janos. Our course lay westward near the boundary 
 line to a mountain range about fifty miles distant, 
 where General Conde was encamped with the Mexican 
 Commission awaiting my arrival. Leaving Ojo de 
 Vaca, we struck across the open plain due west, to 
 pass a spur of the Burro Mountains. Twelve miles 
 brought us to this mountain, when the Mexican lancer 
 said that by turning up a canon or defile to the north- 
 ward, we r should find an excellent spring of water, and 
 that none would be met with again for about forty 
 
362 THE COPPER MINES 
 
 miles. We accordingly left the trail and followed 
 him. In a short time we entered a narrow and pictu- 
 resque defile thickly wooded with scrub-oaks. This 
 we followed for about five miles, when it opened upon 
 a beautiful grassy meadow about three hundred yards 
 wide, in which were many fine springs. Here we 
 encamped, near the base of the hills, and about three 
 miles north of the line where the Mexican Astrono- 
 mers had had their observing camp. After dinner I 
 followed the valley up for a mile. The flat meadow- 
 like appearance continued as far as I could trace it 
 from the tops of the hills, hemmed in on both sides by 
 mountains. This valley I am inclined to think extends 
 to the Gila, and during heavy rains is covered with 
 water. There is land enough here to support a few 
 families, with excellent water and some wood ; and it 
 would be a good point for a station, in case a wagon 
 road or railway should be constructed across this 
 country. 
 
 The weather to-day was extremely warm, so that 
 our captive girl has suffered much from the exposure 
 to the sun. Named this spring Ojo de Inez, or Inez's 
 Spring, after her. I believe it is known to the Mexi- 
 cans as Ojo de Gavilan or Hawk Spring. 
 
 In the hope that we might be able to find a pas- 
 sage across the mountains, without retracing our steps 
 through the defile by which we had entered, and 
 thereby save some six or seven miles of a very bad 
 road, I sent a small party out to search for a practica- 
 ble route. Towards evening they returned and 
 reported that they had found one. 
 
 August 30th. The defile through which we were 
 
TO RIO SAN PEDRO. 363 
 
 to pass, was about half a mile south of our camp. I 
 rode in advance accompanied by several to reconnoitre, 
 and followed by the pack mules. This enabled us to 
 select the best route for the wagons, which brought up 
 the rear. The course was very tortuous, but without 
 a hill that required us to lock our wagon wheels. 
 
 As we emerged from the mountains I rode up to 
 the top of a hill with two gentlemen, in order to 
 obtain a better view of the country. While seated on 
 a rock enjoying the prospect before us, we were 
 startled by the appearance of a huge grizzly bear, about 
 fifteen rods distant, advancing in our direction. He 
 discovered us at the same moment we did him, and 
 seemed quite as much alarmed, for he suddenly sheered 
 and made his escape at full speed along the base of the 
 hill. We ran for our arms, which we had left with our 
 horses a few yards below ; but before we could get 
 them he was too far off for a shot. He crossed 
 directly in the rear of the train, when he made for the 
 hills, followed by several of the party. Coming to a 
 steep ascent, he ran up it with as much ease apparently 
 as he did over level ground, and soon disappeared. 
 The bear has a great advantage over his pursuers in 
 this respect, as his large and pliable feet, and huge 
 claws, enable him to climb up the steepest acclivity with 
 the same facility as a cat. The color of this animal 
 was of a silvery gray, with a darker or a black stripe 
 down his back. 
 
 On entering the plain, our course was west to the 
 southern point of a short mountain range. The coun- 
 try was quite rough and intersected with deep gulleys. 
 On passing this mountain we descended by an easy 
 
364 
 
 THE COPPER MINES 
 
 and gradual slope to a vast open plain, uninterrupted 
 by hills, and bounded on the west by a high range of 
 mountains about twenty-five miles distant. North and 
 south there were no mountains to obstruct the view. 
 Our guide here pointed out to us El Peloncillo, or 
 
 Barro Mountains. 
 
 Sugar Loaf, a mountain of this form in the high range 
 alluded to, with an opening near it, where he said 
 General Conde was encamped. He told us we should 
 find no water until we reached there, which it seemed 
 impossible to do before dark. At 3 o'clock in the 
 afternoon we encountered a violent shower of rain. A 
 few of the party had been so prudent as to have their 
 india-rubber coats behind their saddles ; but many 
 had left theirs in the wagons which were a mile behind, 
 
TO RIO SAN PEDRO. 365 
 
 and were consequently drenched to the skin. The rain 
 had now made the plain so muddy, that we could 
 evidently not reach General Conde's camp before 
 night; yet Mr. Gray with some of the party who were 
 in advance pushed on with that intention. About 
 7 o'clock, as we were plodding slowly along, we heard 
 the report of a musket from the wagons in the rear ; 
 and taking it for a signal of trouble, we rode back to 
 learn the cause. On arriving, we found that the mules 
 had given out, that the wagons were fast in the mud, 
 and that it was impossible to proceed farther at pre- 
 sent. It still continued to rain ; but there was no 
 shelter at hand and no alternative but to. encamp where 
 we were. The tents were accordingly got out and 
 pitched on the open plain, where at every step the 
 foot sunk three or four inches in the mud. It was 
 with great difficulty that the tents could be kept up, 
 as the ground was so soft that the pins would not hold. 
 But the more serious question was how to make a fire, 
 with no fuel but wet bushes ; for not a particle of wood 
 could be found. Nevertheless this was accomplished 
 after much perseverance ; and the cup of hot coffee 
 which was the result had a wonderful effect in reviving 
 our spirits. We retired in the midst of the storm, 
 expecting every moment that our tents would fall 
 upon us, but they kept their position, and with the 
 exception of being a little wet, we passed the night 
 more comfortably than could be expected under the 
 circumstances. 
 
 August 31st. Every thing having been drenched 
 with the rain, we did not get off till after 9 o'clock. 
 The travelling continued exceedingly heavy and the 
 
366 
 
 THE COPPER MINES 
 
 mules showed signs of fatigue and the want of water. 
 Our course still lay west for the "Sugar Loaf." We 
 entered the defile by an easy and almost imperceptible 
 ascent ; and after winding along the valley, and cross- 
 ing an arroyo, we reached the camping ground of 
 General Conde. The camp, however, had been 
 
 Approach to Sugar Loaf Mountain. 
 
 deserted, apparently within twenty-four hours of our 
 arrival. On looking around, we found attached to a 
 pole a note from Mr. Steele, the gentleman I had sent 
 from the Copper Mines to apprise the Mexican Com- 
 missioner of the cause of my delay. Mr. Steele stated 
 that in consequence of the limited supply of water, 
 which could only be obtained by digging in the arroyo, 
 General Conde feared there would not be sufficient for 
 us all, and accordingly had removed his camp to El 
 Sauce, about twenty miles to the south. Thither he 
 
TO RIO SAN PEDRO. 367 
 
 wished me to follow him, believing there would be 
 found an abundance of water and grass at that place. 
 We pitched our tents here for the night. Latitude 
 of the Sugar Loaf Mountain 32° 20' 21"— Longitude 
 W. from Greenwich 109° 01'. 
 
 September 31s£. As our animals were greatly 
 fatigued by the two last days' march without water, 
 and with but little feed, it was thought best to remain 
 here to-day to recruit them. Our bedding, being 
 quite wet, was spread out to dry. To employ our 
 time to the best advantage, Lieutenant Whipple was 
 occupied in making astronomical and magnetic obser- 
 vations near the camp and on the summit of a high 
 mountain about three miles to the north. This moun- 
 tain was found to be 1750 feet above our camp and 
 2050 above the plain ; the party was seven hours in 
 ascending and returning. It presented a picturesque 
 appearance, from the columnar and basalt-like position 
 of the dark and light strata of which it is composed. 
 I employed myself in examining the hills near, and in 
 making a few sketches. There were but few trees 
 here, and these mostly live oak standing in the valleys. 
 The hills were quite bare. While engaged in sketch- 
 ing, halfway up the mountain, I was overtaken by a 
 shower, from which I took shelter in a large natural 
 opening in the side of a rock on the summit of one of 
 the mountain spurs. The rocks here presented many 
 fantastic forms. Among the crevices grew the fou- 
 quiera, with an occasional cedar, while the Spanish 
 bayonet and yucca sprang up on all sides. In the 
 distance, on the right, rose the Sugar Loaf Hill, near 
 the base of which was our camp. 
 
368 
 
 THE COPPER MINES 
 
 We found water by digging in the arroyo near our 
 camp, though the supply was but limited. In my 
 rambles among the hills I discovered several springs 
 of running water ; with a little labor therefore I have 
 no doubt an abundance might be procured. In order 
 to apprise General Conde that I was near, and should 
 join him next day, Dr. Webb, with Messrs. Cremony 
 and Thurber, rode forward to his camp. 
 
 Rocky Cavern, near Sugar Loaf Mountain. 
 
 September 2d. Mr. Steele and a Mexican soldier 
 arrived this morning from General Conde's camp, 
 
TO RIO SAN PEDRO. 
 
 369 
 
 bringing ine word that the General had again removed 
 about twenty -five miles farther to the west, in order 
 that he might be nearer the settlements ; as he was 
 getting short of provisions, and should be compelled 
 to go himself or send there very soon for a supply. 
 We left camp at 9 o'clock; Lieut. Whipple, with the 
 wagons, retraced his steps about two miles, when he 
 found an easy passage through the mountains. Mr. 
 Gray and myself took the pack-mules, and, with the 
 assistance of the Mexican guide, followed a shorter 
 cut directly through the defile, where it was impossi- 
 ble for wagons to pass. Our route was tortuous and 
 
 Chiricahui Mountains. 
 
 hilly, hemmed in on all sides by lofty mountains. 
 Two or three miles brought us to the opposite side of 
 
 vol. i. — 24 
 
370 
 
 THE COPPER MINES 
 
 the mountains, when a broad open plain appeared 
 before us about twenty-five miles across, bounded by 
 a lofty and continuons range known as the Sierra 
 Chiricahui. Its course, like that of all the other long 
 ranges we had seen, was from the northwest to the 
 southeast, with an irregular and jagged summit, often 
 exhibiting picturesque and fantastic forms. The plain 
 that lay between us and the mountains was unbroken 
 by a hill or a tree. At the northwest the view was 
 limited by a very high mountain apparently seventy 
 or eighty miles distant, which I supposed to be near 
 the Gila. Both east and west of this mountain the 
 country was open. In a southerly direction mountains 
 
 La Punta do Sauz Cienega. 
 
 were visible at a great distance. We entered the val- 
 ley by a gradual descent. About one third the distance 
 
TO EIO SAN PEDRO. 371 
 
 across the plain, we struck a dry ravine. Following 
 this some eight or ten miles, we reached El Sauce, or 
 the Willow Marsh ; which seemed to be the basin 
 where the waters collected from the adjoining moun- 
 tains and slopes. Here was a great abundance of 
 water, which, from the rushes that grew on its margin, 
 I suppose to be permanent. Grass was also plenty 
 here. Lieut. Whipple by observation found the lati- 
 tude to be 32° 05' 09", longitude 109° 02' 06'. 
 
 September 3d. There was much alarm in camp 
 this morning in consequence of the absence of John 
 O'Donoghue, one of the computers, who left the track 
 yesterday, and did not rejoin us. It had rained heavily 
 during the night, with thunder and lightning, giving 
 us a pretty thorough drenching, as our tents were in 
 a low and unprotected spot. Sent three men and the 
 Mexican soldier back to our last camp in search of 
 O'Donoghue. The road was now very heavy ; and 
 so deep did the wheels sink into the earth, that it was 
 with the greatest difficulty the wagons could be got 
 along. Many times they became so deeply imbedded 
 as to require the aid of several men to relieve them. 
 The pack-mules also had to struggle hard to make 
 their way over the miry soil. Our perplexities were 
 increased by the many small ravines now partially 
 filled with water from the late rains, where the wheels 
 sunk almost to their hubs, rendering it necessary to 
 double the teams in order to extricate them. After 
 journeying in this manner for six hours, and making 
 but twelve miles, we were obliged to stop and en- 
 camp without water. We had expected to reach the 
 mountains, now but a few miles off, and did not take 
 
372 THE COPPER MINES 
 
 the precaution to fill our water kegs. Fortunately we 
 extracted enough from our canteens to make our cof- 
 fee. One of the wagons got so completely bogged 
 that it could not be extricated ; so that I was obliged 
 to send back some pack-mules to take the load, and 
 let the wagon come in empty. Short as this day's 
 journey had been, it was a very severe one on the mules. 
 Latitude of this camp 32° 08' 33", longitude 109° 11' 
 32" ; course north-west. 
 
 September 4dh. This morning the party sent in 
 search of O'Donogkue retured. They had discovered 
 his track, and traced him to the camp which General 
 Conde had just left, where they found a note announc- 
 ing his safe arrival there, and that he had kept on 
 with the General and his party. 
 
 Continued our journey along the base of the 
 mountains ; the road still heavy, with frequent arroyos. 
 These, when the banks are steep, are difficult to pass ; 
 and in crossing one of them a tongue of one of Colonel 
 Graham's wagons was broken. The day was quite 
 hot, and the poor mules seemed to suffer much from 
 thirst. As we drew near to the mountains we disco- 
 vered water gushing from their side. We therefore 
 halted ; and as the spring was at some distance above 
 the valley, we had to take the mules from the wagons 
 and with much labor lead them up to drink. This 
 was so difficult that a portion of the party kept on, 
 hoping soon to find a place where the precious beverage 
 was more accessible. I observed one of the gentlemen 
 clamber up the rocks and fill his leather cup with 
 water, which he brought several times down the steep 
 hill to give to his suffering horse. At one o'clock, we 
 
TO RIO SAN PEDRO. 373 
 
 turned short to the left, and entered a narrow defile 
 with perpendicular sides, and soon after found our- 
 selves in a beautiful amphitheatre among the moun- 
 tains. Here we found the spot where the Mexican 
 Commission had been encamped, and a note from Mr. 
 Thurber, stating that in consequence of the limited 
 supply of water they had still gone forward. I was 
 greatly disappointed at this news, as there was every 
 indication of the proximity of water in the many sur- 
 rounding gorges and ravines. All were set about 
 searching for it at once ; and after some time thus 
 spent, one of the men happily struck a trail, which he 
 followed half a mile up a ravine, and there discovered 
 a spring and fine pool of crystal water. No time was 
 lost in driving up the mules, horses, cattle, and sheep, 
 and we gladly pitched our tents near a beautiful grove 
 of oaks. I regretted much that General Conde had 
 not discovered this fine spring, the vicinity of which 
 afforded the most eligible camping ground we had yet 
 met with. Lieutenant Whipple observed here, and 
 found the latitude to be 32° 08' 43", longitude 109° 
 24' 33". 
 
 September 5th. After a few hours' detention to 
 repair Colonel Graham's wagon, we moved forward, 
 and found the mountains more difficult to pass than 
 any we had encountered before, consisting as they did 
 of continuous hills, which required much care on the 
 part of the teamsters; yet, with locking the wheels 
 two or three times, and a little assistance by hand, we 
 soon got through. The length of the pass, with all the 
 sinuosities of our route, did not exceed three miles. 
 
 On emerging from the opposite side a broad plain 
 
374 THE COPPER MINES 
 
 again opened to our view as before, with a range of 
 mountains bordering its western side, about thirty-five 
 miles distant, and running parallel with those we had 
 just left. 
 
 This plain appeared, as it subsequently proved to 
 be, destitute of shrubbery or trees, and covered with 
 grass. It was without a hill, and extended in both 
 directions from sixty to eighty miles. A dry lake 
 appeared about midway in the plain ; and a closer 
 examination made by some of the party showed that 
 there was water in some portions about two inches 
 deep, but so brackish and muddy that even the cattle 
 would not drink it. From our present elevation above 
 the lower plain, we had a most extended prospect. At 
 the south-west we saw a long line of trees marking a 
 water course or arroyo, which we at first believed to be 
 the San Pedro, though we afterwards found it was not 
 the case. The plain being hard and smooth, with a 
 slight descent, we pushed rapidly forward, and late in 
 the afternoon perceived with our glasses the camp of 
 General Conde, yet a great distance from us. Those 
 who were mounted hurried on in advance of the 
 wagons, and at six o'clock reached the camp, having 
 been in the saddle eleven hours, without taking food, 
 and exposed to a broiling sun. The wagons could not 
 get in, but stopped about five miles back, when they 
 were overtaken by the darkness of the night. The 
 mules too were greatly fatigued. 
 
 The water here, which was taken from pools a mile 
 from the camp, was found to be very bad. Not a 
 shrub was to be' seen; the grass was poor; rounded 
 heaps of white sand, or patches of bare clay, appeared 
 
TO RIO SAN PEDRO. 375 
 
 in all directions. On the whole, we had not before 
 been encamped in so miserable a place. The General 
 had been led here by the report of the existence of a 
 large lake, which turned out to be the dry bed I have 
 mentioned. Finding it impossible to stop there, his 
 men in searching further discovered the pools near 
 which we were now encamped. 
 
 General Conde gave us all a warm reception, and 
 invited the officers to his tent, where refreshments 
 were served to us. Mr. Salazar, the Chief Astronomer 
 of the Mexican Commission, arrived here to-day, 
 having finished running the line of the southern boun- 
 dary of New Mexico through its entire length of three 
 degrees, as agreed upon by the Joint Commission. 
 
 September 6th. We were all glad to have a day 
 of rest after our fatiguing journey, even in so desolate 
 a spot. The weather was quite warm, and we felt the 
 heat more than when moving. Our cooks had the 
 greatest cause for complaints; as no fuel could be 
 found but dried grass and stalks of the yucca. These 
 would answer for nothing but to boil a pot ; to bake 
 bread was impossible. 
 
 General Conde had with him the whole Mexican 
 Commission, consisting of seventy men, besides his 
 officers. This included his military escort, who per- 
 formed the duty of laborers, and assisted the engineers 
 in the field. He informed us that he had been 
 attacked by the Apaches when encamped at the 
 Sugar Loaf Mountain. They approached, unperceiv- 
 ed, within a quarter of a mile of his tent, and drove 
 off his saddle-horses. Another party on the opposite 
 side made a dash at his mule herd, which they 
 
376 THE COPPER MINES 
 
 attempted to stampede ; but the herders were so fortu- 
 nate as to get the start of them, and succeeded in 
 driving the animals safely into camp. On hearing of 
 our loss at the Copper Mines the General had increased 
 the guard over the mules, but for which he would have 
 lost the whole. 
 
 A meeting of the Joint Commission was held 
 to-day, at which all the members were present. On 
 this occasion Mr. Gray first made known his dissent 
 from the agreement entered into relative to the south- 
 ern boundary of New Mexico, stating, moreover, that 
 " his reasons, and his interpretation based upon them, 
 had been referred to the Government, in pursuance of 
 the 21st article of the treaty." General Conde re- 
 marked, that "this course did not agree with the 
 stipulations of the 5th article of the treaty ; and that 
 the Initial Point had been determined, and the deci- 
 sion could not be reversed." 
 
 September 7t7i. The Joint Commission met again 
 in my tent ; but in consequence of Mr. Gray's illness, 
 adjourned to his, where he and Mr. Salazar presented 
 a plan for continuing the survey. This was adopted, 
 and it was determined to enter upon the duty at once. 
 Mr. Gray and Lieutenant Whipple, with their parties, 
 were to run the Gila portion of the work on the part 
 of the United States ; while the Chief Astronomer was 
 to have the entire charge of the Rio Grande survey on 
 the part of the same. Mr. Salazar was to operate with 
 the latter, and General Conde and his officers with the 
 former. 
 
 The Mexican Commissioner announced his inten- 
 tion to proceed at once to Santa Cruz, the nearest set- 
 
TO RIO SAN PEDRO. 377 
 
 tlenient in Sonora, for the purpose of obtaining a supply 
 of provisions before he could go on with the work. As 
 the American Commission was in a similar destitute 
 predicament, and there was nothing here but brackish 
 water, no wood, and very poor grass, it was determined 
 to proceed without delay to the San Pedro River, one 
 day's journey distant, and there await the arrival of 
 the provisions which were to follow us from the Copper 
 Mines ; or, if supplies could sooner be got from Santa 
 Cruz, to obtain them and then go to the Gila. The lati- 
 tude of this place is 32° 02' 38", longitude 109° 48' 54". 
 September 8th. The backs of two of the pack-mules 
 so much galled that they were abandoned here ; and 
 General Conde kindly loaned me two of his, to carry 
 their packs. At 8 o'clock a. m. we again set off in a 
 westerly direction, ascending very gradually to a gap 
 in the mountain range, about fourteen miles distant, 
 through which we hoped to find an easy passage. The 
 opening did not disappoint us, as it was very level ; 
 but it was an arroyo deeply cut by mountain torrents 
 rather than a defile, and consequently presented a con- 
 tinuous bed of sand and gravel for nearly twelve miles. 
 Its precipitous banks excluded the air, so that the jour- 
 ney was a most disagreeable one. On emerging from 
 the arroyo, we entered a plain, thickly overgrown with 
 large mezquit bushes, but destitute of grass. We 
 looked in vain for a line of trees, or of luxuriant vege- 
 tation to mark the course of the San Pedro, and began 
 to fear that we might have still another mountain ridge 
 and another plain to cross before reaching it, when all 
 of a sudden we found ourselves upon its banks. The 
 stream which resembled the Pecos in appearance,. 
 
378 THE COPPER MINES 
 
 though much smaller, was here about twenty feet 
 across, about two feet deep, and quite rapid. The 
 water, though muddy, was pleasant to the taste. We 
 were all exceedingly fatigued with this day's march, 
 having been eleven and a half hours in the saddle and 
 travelled upwards of thirty miles. The latitude of this 
 place by observation was 31° 54' 31"; longitude, west 
 from Greenwich 110° 11' 41". 
 
RIO SAN PEDRO TO SANTA CRUZ. 379 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 RIO SAN PEDRO TO SANTA CRUZ. 
 
 The valley of the San Pedro - Decide on going to Santa Cruz for provisions 
 and mules — Departure of General Conde — Leave the San Pedro — Take 
 the trail of the Mexicans — Deserted Indian village — Leave the trail — 
 "Wild horses — Santa Rita Mountain — Beautiful valley — Progress ar- 
 rested — Critical situation — Mr. Thurber goes in search of Santa Cruz — 
 Arrival of Colonel Graham — Ruined hacienda of Calabasa — "Wild 
 scenery — On short allowance — Return of Mr. Thurber — Retrace our 
 steps towards the San Pedro — Mustangs— Camp on the Babocomori — 
 Arrival of Mexican soldiers — General Conde loses his way — Sufferings 
 of his party — Mexicans hunting cattle on the San Pedro — The father 
 and friends of Inez Gonzales arrive — Set out again for Santa Cruz — 
 Meeting of the captive girl and her mother — Arrival at Santa Cruz. 
 
 September 9th. The valley of the San Pedro River 
 near our camp was any thing but luxuriant. It con- 
 sists of a loam, which if irrigated might be productive ; 
 but as the banks are not less than eight or ten feet 
 high, irrigation is impracticable, except by digging a 
 canal a very long distance. The grass of the vicinity 
 is miserably thin and poor, growing merely in tufts 
 beneath the mezquit bushes which constitute the only 
 shrubbery, and in some instances attain a height of ten 
 or twelve feet. Low hills approached within a mile of 
 the river on the east side, and on the west within a 
 quarter of a mile of that distance. Finding it impossi- 
 
380 RIO SAN PEDEO 
 
 ble to graze our animals here, I sent men up and down 
 the stream in search of better grass, which tney suc- 
 ceeded in discovering about three miles further south, 
 with springs of water near. I therefore directed the 
 camp to be removed there the next day. 
 
 General Conde called, and said he was about to leave 
 with five men for Santa Cruz. In consequence of his 
 offers of service, I requested him to engage for me some 
 flour and beans, both of which I had been informed could 
 be procured there ; also to get me twelve mules, as I 
 had just learned that four more of ours had proved unfit 
 for use. General Conde said he had an officer with him 
 who had resided in Santa Cruz some years before, and 
 was well acquainted with the country ; that we were 
 not more than twenty -five miles off; and that he should 
 reach there before night. I told him that I would fol- 
 low him in the afternoon. 
 
 Having now decided to proceed myself to Santa 
 Cruz for provisions and mules for the surveying par- 
 ties, I directed the camp to be removed to the springs, 
 three miles above, and there await my return, which at 
 the farthest I believed would be in a week. This 
 journey, too, would enable me to deliver to her parents 
 the captive girl, who was yet with us. I took leave 
 of Lieutenant Whipple, Mr. Gray, and Colonel Graham, 
 when the latter informed me that he should strike 
 Cooke's California road, which we believed came within 
 a short distance from our camp, and return to the Cop- 
 per Mines that way. At his request I furnished him 
 with some sheep for his journey. 
 
 That no time might be lost, I directed the mules 
 to be hitched up at once, intending to take one wagon 
 
TO SANTA CRUZ. 381 
 
 for the flour, and a few pack-mules to carry our tents, 
 cooking utensils, and baggage. I hoped to overtake 
 General Conde, but a shower came up, which made it 
 necessary to delay our departure for a few hours. In 
 order to cross the river, it was necessary to level the 
 banks on both sides, and let the wagon down by hand. 
 Our baggage, tents, &c, were all carried over on mules, 
 so that it was live o'clock in the afternoon before we 
 got off. Soon after, it commenced raining, rendering 
 it very difficult for the wagon to get along. Our route 
 lay along the valley due south, through a thick mezquit 
 chapporal. There was no road ; but the trail of Gene- 
 ral Conde's train was a sufficient guide. We had now 
 a gloomy prospect before us ; the rain was pouring 
 down in torrents, the travelling was becoming more 
 and more heavy, and the whole surface of the valley 
 was completely deluged with water. Towards even- 
 ing, finding a little gravelly knoll just large enough to 
 pitch a couple of tents upon, we encamped. Ditches 
 were now dug to lead off the water, and earth was re- 
 moved to within the tents so as to make them tolerably 
 dry. During the night it rained very hard. 
 
 September 10th. Mr. Salazar arrived in camp during 
 the night, and remained with us. He was on his way 
 to Santa Cruz. Resumed our journey at 8 o'clock. 
 My party now consisted of Dr. Webb, Messrs. George 
 Thurber, J. C. Cremony, Henry C. Pratt, John J. Pratt, 
 Inez Gonzales, the captive girl, and myself. We had 
 also one servant, one cook, one laborer, one teamster, 
 and three Mexican arrieros, making altogether four- 
 teen persons. Our course continued due south through 
 thick mezquit chapporal, following the trail of General 
 
382 RIO SAN PEDRO 
 
 Conde's party. After marching about eighteen miles 
 the trail turned abruptly to the west, along the base of 
 some high detached hills ; these we followed about 
 five miles, when we encamped near a water hole. 
 .There was here a collection of twenty or thirty wig- 
 wams, made of poles, bent over in a circular form and 
 well thatched with straw, the whole so completely done 
 that they must have been a permanent abode for their 
 
 Indian Wigwam. 
 
 occupants. From all appearances the place had been 
 deserted a year or more. In the midst of these wig- 
 wams was a circular pit lined with stones, where the 
 distilling of mezcal had been carried on, on a large 
 scale. Inez said she had never seen such wigwams 
 among the Apaches, and that it must have been a vil- 
 lage of the Papagos Indians. There were many frag- 
 ments of pottery scattered about. * Dr. Webb rode 
 ahead with Mr. Salazar this morning, and did not re- 
 join us. He, doubtless reached General Conde's 
 party. 
 
 * I afterwards learned that this was a place where Papagos Indians 
 resorted annually to collect the Maguay, and distil the liquor ; and 
 that about a year before our visit, they were surprised by the Apaches 
 and some fifty men, women and children, killed or taken prisoners. 
 
TO SANTA CRUZ. 383 
 
 September 11th. We followed the wagon trail for 
 several miles, till at length it turned off in a north- 
 westerly course. At this I became uneasy, knowing 
 that Santa Cruz, whither we were bound, lay to the 
 south. Not knowing but General Conde might have 
 gone that way to avoid some deep ravine, although I 
 could see none, I came to a halt, and sent Mr. Cremo- 
 ny ahead for a mile or two to see whither the trail 
 we were following led. He reported that it kept the 
 same north-westerly-course, and seemed to be follow- 
 ing a well-marked Indian trail. I now became satisfied 
 that General Conde's party had mistaken their route, 
 and that by following it, they must reach Tucson, a 
 military post towards the Gila. I had now come, since 
 I changed my course yesterday, about eight miles out of 
 the way. I determined therefore to leave the trail and 
 go south over an open plain, towards a high mountain ; 
 and this direction we pursued until four o'clock, when 
 we encamped near a little pool of water. The whole 
 face of the country had changed to-day, in fact since 
 we had left the valley of the San Pedro. From that 
 river we had ascended to a plateau of an undulating 
 character, similar to the western prairies. It was 
 covered with short grass ; and in the depressions, 
 some of which were fifty or a hundred feet lower than 
 the plain, we found pools of water, more luxuriant 
 grass, and groves of small oaks. 
 
 We saw for the first time to-day a herd of mus- 
 tangs, or wild horses. They at first caused us much 
 alarm, as we took them for a party of Indians ; but a 
 ,close examination with a spy-glass disclosed what they 
 were. When within half a mile of them they dis- 
 
384 RIO SAN PEDRO 
 
 covered us, and soon disappeared from view. Many 
 deer and antelope were also seen. 
 
 On our right, about ten or twelve miles distant, a 
 lofty range of mountains, one of which, towering far 
 above the others, terminated in a peak. We after- 
 wards learned that this was called the Santa Rita 
 Mountain. It was altogether the most magnificent 
 that we had seen. Spurs extend from it five or six 
 miles towards the plateau, and its sides are deeply 
 furrowed with gorges and ravines. At sunset, when a 
 deep shadow was thrown over it, its appearance was 
 truly grand. We all went up on the plateau to enjoy 
 the scene, and Mr. Pratt devoted the daylight that 
 remained to taking a sketch of it. 
 
 September 12th. On setting out we ascended the 
 plateau again from our encampment, but dropped 
 down soon after into a valley which extended several 
 miles towards the south, its banks studded with oaks. 
 The grass continued rich and abundant, with frequent 
 pools of water from the washings of the adjacent hills. 
 Six miles brought us to a hill some five or six hundred 
 feet high, which lay directly across our path. In 
 every direction, except around the western base of the 
 hill on which we stood, arose higher hills and lofty 
 mountains intersecting each other, and presenting an 
 impassable barrier to our progress. After three hours' 
 detention spent in search of a passage, we retraced 
 our steps for a short distance, and by surmounting 
 several low, though very steep hills, crossing many 
 ravines, over which it was necessary for every man to 
 put his shoulder to the wagon, and wading through a 
 swamp, where the rank grass reached above our heads, 
 
TO SANTA CRUZ. 385 
 
 we succeeded in rounding the hill before referred to 
 on its western side, and in dropping into the valley 
 beyond. Here we found a small stream of clear and 
 sweet water running through the valley. Pursuing 
 still a course nearly south for about ten miles, we 
 approached the base of the high and isolated moun- 
 tain, when the stream and valley turned suddenly to 
 the west. Continuing along it for a mile, we encamp- 
 ed near a grove of large cotton-woods, in the midst of 
 tall grass, within a little nook protected on three sides 
 by steep hills. Here we were admirably concealed 
 from an enemy, except in front, where lay the valley 
 and stream. The latter, increased by rains from 
 the adjoining mountains, had now become a rapid 
 stream, and was closely hemmed in by willows, which 
 rendered it difficult of approach. The valley for the 
 last ten miles of our march resembled an old and 
 highly cultivated place, from which the people and 
 their habitations had suddenly disappeared. Large 
 cotton-wood trees and willow bushes lined the stream, 
 while here and there in little groves were beautiful 
 oaks and large mezquit trees ; for the latter, although 
 adapted to every soil, becomes a large tree in a rich 
 soil like this. It seemed that each grove, as we ap- 
 proached it, must conceal some dwelling place and 
 cultivated grounds ; but in reality all was solitude, 
 and there was no evidence that a furrow had ever 
 turned the virgin soil, or a seed had even been sown 
 there. 
 
 September 13th Believing that by following the 
 stream we should strike a road or path: that would 
 guide us to our place of destination, we continued our 
 
 vol. i. — 25 
 
386 RIO SAN PEDRO 
 
 course along the base of the low hills which bound the 
 valley, but were very soon arrested in our progress. The 
 valley gradually became contracted as the two great 
 mountain ranges approached each other, leaving only 
 a defile, about a quarter of a mile in breadth, 
 through which the water had burst a passage. This 
 defile was filled with gigantic cotton-woods, with an 
 undergrowth of rank grass, weeds, and jungle, rising 
 above our heads even when on horseback. Among 
 them grew a vine, binding all together ; so that it was 
 impossible to force a passage through. Farther pro- 
 gress here was therefore at an end. But perceiving 
 on the elevated ground of the side of the valley, a 
 cluster of deserted adobe buildings, I sent a party 
 across to see if there was any egress in that direction ; 
 while I went with Mr. Cremony and Mr. Pratt over 
 the hills, and along the valley ahead. A few hundred 
 yards before us a perpendicular wall of rock rose 
 directly from the valley, or rather from the stream 
 which ran at its base. The hills on all sides were 
 steep, high, rocky, full of the most frightful chasms, and 
 utterly impassable for a wagon. For the half mile that 
 I went I had to lead my horse ; and I doubted whe- 
 ther an animal under a heavy pack would be able to 
 clamber the steep and rocky crags that lay in our way. 
 The valley too, where I depended chiefly on finding a 
 passage, had become an impenetrable swamp. From a 
 high hill, which I ascended, it could be traced for a 
 long distance by the bright green hue of its vegeta- 
 tion ; but the rugged mountains hemmed it closely in, 
 their summits, from the bird's-eye view I had of them, 
 appearing like the huge waves of a tempestuous ocean, 
 suddenly turned to stone. Frightful chasms where 
 
TO SANTA CRUZ. 387 
 
 mighty convulsions had rent the mountain asunder, 
 and deep ravines worn by the torrents of centuries, 
 appeared on every side. Bare rocks projected here 
 and there, gray and mossy with age, and appearing 
 like ruined castles. But amid all this sterile grandeur 
 there was a rich and varied vegetation. The graceful 
 agave thrust up its tall and slender stem from among 
 the rocks ; the yucca and Spanish bayonet monopo- 
 lized as usual every spot where there was a few inches 
 of earth or gravel ; while the fouquiera with its thorny 
 stems was well represented. Cedar and stunted oaks 
 jutted from many little depressions where there was 
 sufficient soil to give them a foothold. 
 
 Mr. Thurber, who went to examine the opposite 
 side of the valley, reported that a passage for mules 
 might be found in that direction by following an old 
 Indian trail which passed the ruined hacienda; but 
 for a wagon no egress could be discovered. No alter- 
 native now remained but to retrace our steps with the 
 wagon, or to transfer its contents to the banks of the 
 mules and abandon it. I decided on the latter 
 course. Being without pack-saddles, we took as sub- 
 stitutes our tents and wagon cover, which were folded 
 in a convenient form and laid over the mules 1 backs. 
 Our blankets were converted to the same use ; and 
 then five mules were prepared for their loads. The 
 contents of the wagon were then put upon the mules 
 and fastened as securely as possible. The next thiug 
 to be done was to cut a passage through the jungle with 
 axes, to enable us to cross the stream and valley. This 
 - being accomplished, we moved off, leaving the wagon, 
 harness, tables, camp-stools, and such other articles as 
 we could dispense with without serious inconvenience. 
 
388 RIO SAN PEDRO 
 
 On reaching the stream, one of the men led the 
 way, followed by one of the pack-mules. The crea- 
 ture sank deep into the mud ; but with a good deal 
 of struggling on its part, and urging on that of the 
 arrieros, it got safely across, the pack turning as soon 
 as the mule reached the bank. The next two fell in 
 the middle of the stream, and became fast in its soft 
 and muddy bottom, their packs falling over into the 
 water. After unavailing efforts to get them along, 
 and fearing they would drown themselves in their 
 struggles, the packs were cut loose . and taken off ; 
 and then, with several men in the water lifting, and 
 others on the bank pulling, the mules were released 
 from their miry beds and brought back to the firm soil. 
 My own baggage and papers got drenched as well as 
 most of the blankets and bedding of the party. Some 
 of the horsemen in attempting to cross, also mired; 
 and as we had six more pack-mules to get over, I 
 abandoned my efforts ; not so much from the difficulty 
 of passing the stream, as of keeping the packs on the 
 mules without ropes. The straps and rigging of two 
 mules had been ruined in our exertions to save the 
 animals. We now returned to our abandoned wagon ; 
 and finding it impossible to proceed, I determined to 
 send a party by the trail discovered near the old haci- 
 enda, to Santa Cruz, for a guide, and such aid as would 
 enable us all to reach there. I believed that this place 
 was now within ten or twelve miles of us, and that a 
 party going south, must strike the emigrant road to 
 California, which passes through it. 
 
 Mr. George Thurber at once volunteered on this 
 duty, in which he was joined by Mr. J. J. Pratt. A 
 
TO SANTA CRUZ. 389 
 
 Mexican arriero accompanied them to take care of 
 their animals, and render such aid as they might stand 
 in need of. Within an hour after this had been deter- 
 mined on the party were off; and as they believed 
 they could reach Santa Cruz before night, they took 
 with them merely a supply of bread for a couple of 
 days. When they had left, we removed from the dense 
 thicket around us, and retraced our steps about half a 
 mile ; we then pitched our tents between two spurs of 
 the mountain, where we could not be discovered, 
 except from the front. The cotton-wood trees in the 
 spot where our march was arrested were the largest 
 we had ever seen. I measured the girth of one, about 
 five feet above the ground, and found it twenty-eight 
 feet. Its limbs spread full forty feet on every side, 
 and a large party might have encamped beneath its 
 ample shade. 
 
 In the afternoon we were surprised by the 
 appearance of a man on horseback coming at full 
 speed towards our camp. He proved to be Guada- 
 lupe, one of Colonel Graham's servants, who, greatly 
 to my surprise, informed me that the Colonel was fol- 
 lowing my trail on the way to Santa Cruz ; that he 
 was very short of provisions ; and that he (Guadalupe) 
 had hoped to reach there in advance and obtain some, 
 in case I could not furnish them. 
 
 September lith. We now found ourselves very 
 short of provisions ; for, relying on the Mexican's 
 assurances on the San Pedro that we were within 
 twenty-five miles of Santa Cruz, I had provided myself 
 with only five days' supply of flour, and three of meat, 
 with other necessaries for a week. As soon as I dis- 
 
390 RIO SAN PEDRO 
 
 covered that we should not reach there as soon as 
 anticipated I cut down the daily allowance of flour 
 one half. Our meat being fresh, was soon exhausted ; 
 so that by this time our supply of every thing was 
 very scanty. Several of us set out in search of game ; 
 but although deer were seen, we were not fortunate 
 enough to kill any. I perceived the traces of turkeys 
 among the cotton- wood, and watched for hours beneath 
 them ; but they came not. Mr. Pratt rigged up a fish- 
 ing line to try what he could find in the brook. His 
 labors were attended with success; and our dinner 
 table was served with a plentiful supply of trout, 
 which, though small, were a welcome addition to our 
 bill of fare. We also found near the camp an abun- 
 dance of purslain (portulacca). This was collected and 
 boiled, and formed our chief food. In the absence of 
 vegetables, which we had not tasted for a long time, 
 we all relished it very much. 
 
 September \5th. Colonel Graham and his party 
 joined us this morning. He came a few hours in 
 advance, with Messrs. Wright and Clarke, in conse- 
 quence of the sad tale brought back by Guadalupe, 
 who told him we were " half starved and living on 
 roots." The Colonel brought us his haversack filled 
 with bread and meat, and a bottle of wine. He him- 
 self was quite short of provisions, though much better 
 off than we were ; and having killed a bear in his 
 journey, he had had an abundant supply of fresh meat. 
 This kind of meat, however, will not keep, and is not 
 good after the second day, except in cold weather. 
 
 I took my rifle and went out again in search of 
 game, following a deep ravine far up towards the 
 
TO SANTA CRUZ. 391 
 
 Santa Rita Mountain, and was so fortunate as to get a 
 shot at a turkey, which I brought down. He proved 
 to be a very large one, and a pretty good load to 
 trudge over the hill and rocks with. This gave us all 
 a fine dinner. Sent all hands out towards evening after 
 game, but none was found. 
 
 September IQth. On examining his provisions, Col. 
 Graham found he had sufficient to give all half allow- 
 ance of flour for six days, which was accordingly dis- 
 tributed, and proved very acceptable. He also had a 
 little salt pork, but no sugar, tea, or coffee. These 
 things we had not tasted for many days. But with 
 half an allowance of flour, and as much purslain as we 
 could eat, we did not suffer much. Our fare to be 
 sure was humble enough ; but I am sure we relished 
 it infinitely more, and felt more thankful for it too, 
 than those whose tables are loaded with every luxury, 
 and still have to resort to artificial means to increase 
 the appetite. My mess was now reduced to four, viz., 
 Mr. Cremony, Mr. Pratt, the fair captive, Inez, and 
 myself. 
 
 Colonel Graham set off this morning to reconnoitre 
 the country a few miles to the south, while Mr. Pratt 
 and myself crossed the stream, and ascended the moun- 
 tain on the opposite side. We also examined the 
 ruined hacienda, before spoken of, which seemed to 
 have been abandoned many years before, as much of its 
 adobe walls was washed away.* Our reports coin- 
 cided as to the utter imposibility of forcing our way 
 
 *We afterwards learned that this was a noted cattle hacienda, 
 known as Calabasa, i. e., the pumpkin or gourd. Why so named, I 
 know not, except from the quantity that grow wild in the valley near. 
 
392 RIO SAN PEDRO 
 
 through the mountains, except with pack-mules. Mr. 
 Pratt made some sketches of the wild and picturesque 
 scenery around us. No game was seen to-day. 
 
 September 17th. Began to feel much anxiety for 
 the return of Mr. Thurber and his party, as they took 
 but a small supply of bread with them. I did not 
 think it proper to move until they rejoined us ; for in 
 case they had not succeeded in procuring aid, they 
 would be in a sad strait for food. 
 
 About ten o'clock they were discovered slowly 
 wending their way among the hills, and were soon after 
 among us. Their journey had been unsuccessful. 
 They had traversed the country, as they estimated, 
 some thirty miles west and north-west, till they struck 
 a well-beaten wagon road ; and had visited many de- 
 serted ranchos, and two depopulated towns, in both of 
 which were churches. They had suffered much for 
 want of food, having subsisted chiefly upon peaches, 
 which they found in abundance in the orchards of the 
 deserted towns, and upon the fruit of the prickly pear 
 and yucca. In returning they followed the road some 
 twenty miles in the opposite direction, but found not 
 a living soul. 
 
 No time was now to be lost. Our provisions, even 
 on half allowance, were fast diminishing ; and the only 
 alternative was to retrace our steps as fast as possible 
 to our camp on the San Pedro. The wagon and pack- 
 mules were at once got in readiness ; and by noon we 
 bade adieu to our "lost camp." Made about fifteen 
 miles, and encamped in a fine oak grove, with wood, 
 grass, and water. 
 
 September 18th. Got an earlv start ; and instead 
 
TO SANTA CRUZ. 393 
 
 of following the roundabout way we had come, I deter- 
 mined to make a short cut across the prairie, which 
 seemed quite open to the base of a conical hill, thereby 
 saving eight or ten miles. Found the country undu- 
 lating and quite smooth ; and the grass, though green, 
 was short, presenting no obstruction to the wagon. 
 Small oaks appeared in every depression ; with a few 
 on the plain. At noon we struck the sources of a small 
 stream running eastward, bounded by a broad and beau- 
 tiful valley, into which we descended. This proved to 
 be the Rio Babocomori, a tributary of the San Pedro. 
 We followed it until three o'clock, when we encamped 
 near the ruins of a large hacienda, which stood imme- 
 diately on its banks. 
 
 I would have gone further, but Colonel Graham, 
 with his party, instead of taking the shorter cut with 
 us, had followed the trail which he took out, thus 
 lengthening the distance considerably. As we were 
 in a very good place, with water, wood, and grass, 
 near at hand, I sent the arrieros across the hills, to 
 intercept the Colonel when he came along, and direct 
 him to our camp. At six o'clock he arrived. 
 
 When passing the stream to-day, we were startled 
 by a singular cry from the top of a cotton-wood tree, 
 which overhung our path. It was found to proceed 
 from a young panther ; when a well-directed shot by 
 Mr. Cremony, brought the animal down. It proved to 
 be not much larger than a cat, and of light brown, or 
 tawny colour. Another incident, was the meeting 
 with a herd of about a dozen wild horses. They gazed 
 on us for some time, with heads and tails erect ; they 
 finally got our wind, when they bounded gracefully 
 
394 EIO SAN PEDRO 
 
 over the prairie in a single file, led by a large bladk 
 stud. Before we had our tents pitched, Mr. Pratt got 
 out his fishing-tackle to see what the stream could 
 furnish ; and his industry was rewarded with a good 
 mess of fish, which helped to eke out our scanty din- 
 ner. 
 
 September YQih. Deeming it advisable still to go 
 to Santa Cruz, to deliver up our fair captive, as well as 
 to procure some mules and provisions, in case those 
 expected from the Copper Mines had not arrived, I 
 sent two men off this morning before day -light with a 
 note to Mr. Gray at the camp, on the San Pedro, which 
 I judged to be from twenty to twenty-five miles dis- 
 tant. Informed him of our situation, and requested that 
 he would send us four sheep, and some sugar, coffee 
 and biscuit, from my private stores, all of which they 
 could bring upon their mules. 
 
 Soon after breakfast two Mexican soldiers came in 
 on the run, and presented me a letter. It was address- 
 ed " To any person connected with the Mexican or the 
 American Boundary Commission," and proved to be 
 from General Conde. The General stated that, after 
 eight days wandering among the mountains and on the 
 plains, he had reached Santa Cruz ; and not having 
 seen or heard of the Mexican or American Commission 
 since he left the camp on the San Pedro, he had sent 
 couriers to trace them out, inform them of his safe 
 arrival, and guide them to Santa Cruz. He and his 
 party, consisting of four of his officers, had left in ad- 
 vance of the main body, and failing to reach their 
 place of destination, had slept in the mountains. Ex- 
 pecting to reach Santa Cruz before night, they had 
 
TO SANTA CRUZ. 395 
 
 supplied themselves with but two days' provisions and 
 one blanket ; and hence had suffered greatly for the 
 want both of food and covering. The first day and 
 night it had rained hard, as will be remembered. It 
 seems that they crossed the Santa Rita mountains some- 
 where, and reached the deserted ranchos and towns 
 where Mr. Thurber had been. Taking the California 
 road,* they followed it southwardly, and first fell in 
 with a settled place at Imuriz, a town about seventy- 
 five miles south of Santa Cruz. They had subsisted 
 meanwhile on peaches, which they found in the deserted 
 villages and ranchos, and upon the bean of the mezquit. 
 These couriers had left Santa Cruz but the day 
 before, and soon after they fell upon a trail which 
 proved to be ours. They told us that we had been 
 only some ten or twelve miles from that place ; and 
 that had Mr. Thurber pushed his search to the left of 
 the mountain, instead of following the stream to the 
 right, he would in three or four miles have struck a 
 valley and trail leading to his place of destination. I 
 now began to feel anxious on account of Dr. Webb 
 and Mr. Salazar, but hoped they had joined the main 
 body of the Mexican party, which I still believed had 
 gone to Tucson. 
 
 * I have before stated that the California road goes through Santa 
 Cruz. The direct road it appears passed the mountains three miles 
 north of the town, thereby saving a detour of about ten miles. The 
 emigrants however that traverse this road, generally visit the town ; but 
 as few had gone this way the present season, the turn off to Santa Cruz, 
 which is at San Lazaro, had become almost obliterated, and General 
 Conde overlooked it, keeping along the main road, which continues to 
 Imuriz, and Santa Madelena. 
 
396 RIO SAN PEDRO 
 
 I proposed to Colonel Graham, to send one of his 
 men to the San Pedro camp, advising Lieutenant Whip- 
 ple and Mr. Gray of the information we had received ; 
 and in case any of the Mexican Commission had found 
 its way back, to apprise them of General Conde's arri- 
 val in Santa Cruz, and direct them to our camp, where 
 they would find the couriers and guides. As the Colo- 
 nel required a supply of fresh meat to carry him back 
 to the Copper Mines, I sent, at the same time, for eight 
 sheep for him and his party. Colonel Graham accord- 
 ingly dispatched one of his soldiers to the San Pedro 
 camp. 
 
 A few fish were taken to-day ; and fortunately we 
 found near the old hacienda, a plentiful supply of purs- 
 lain, so that with the little flour we had, we got along 
 very well and without much complaint from the men. 
 I felt quite ill myself from the exposure to the sun and 
 insufficient food : and lay most of the day in the shade 
 beneath the bushes which grew on the river's bank. 
 
 The valley of the Babocomori, is here from a quar- 
 ter to half a mile in breadth, and covered with a luxu- 
 riant growth of grass. The stream, which is about 
 twenty feet wide, and in some places two feet deep, 
 winds through this valley, with willows, and large cot- 
 ton-wood trees growing along its margin. Some of our 
 men followed it about seven miles, to its junction with 
 the San Pedro. This hacienda, as I afterwards learned, 
 was one of the largest cattle establishments in the State 
 of Sonora. The cattle roamed along the entire length 
 of the valley ; and at the time it was abandoned, there 
 were not less than forty thousand head of them, besides 
 a large number of horses and mules. The same cause 
 
TO SANTA CRUZ. 397 
 
 which led to the abandonment of so many other ram 
 chos, haciendas, and villages, in the State, had been 
 the ruin of this. The Apaches encroached upon them, 
 drove off their animals and murdered the herdsmen ; 
 when the owners, to save the rest, drove them further 
 into the interior, and left the place. Many of the cattle, 
 however, remained and spread themselves over the hills 
 and valleys near ; from these, numerous herds have 
 sprung, which now range along the entire length of 
 the San Pedro, and its tributaries. 
 
 September 20th. The soldier, whom Colonel Gra- 
 ham had sent to the San Pedro camp yesterday after- 
 noon, returned this morning, and reported that when 
 he had got within a short distance of the camp, he dis- 
 covered a party of thirty or forty Indians, and in order 
 to avoid them, he had concealed himself in a ravine, 
 where he had passed the night. From this place he 
 had made his way back to our camp, without reaching 
 Lieutenant Whipple. I questioned this man as to the 
 certainty of the people whom he saw, being Indians. 
 He said tliey were a mile off' but seeing feathers in 
 their hair, the peculiarities of their dress, and their 
 galloping with speed over the plain, he felt sure they 
 were such. Colonel Graham manifested much uneasi- 
 ness, and now proposed that we should all proceed to the 
 camp on the San Pedro, return with Messrs. Whipple 
 and Gray to the Copper Mines to refit, and take a new 
 start ; or that all should go to Santa Cruz for the same 
 purpose. I did not believe the people seen were In- 
 dians ; and as the engineering parties were but two or 
 three days' journey from the point where they would 
 begin their survey, I could see no advantage in retrac- 
 
398 RIO SAN PEDRO 
 
 ing our steps to the Copper Mines. We had no time 
 to lose ; and if our supplies were not sent us, I believed 
 that we could get flour and such articles as were abso- 
 lutely necessary at Santa Cruz, or some other place in 
 Sonora, so as to enable us in a few days to proceed to 
 the Gila. Mr. Cremony, who doubted the soldier's 
 story, volunteered to go to the San Pedro camp with a 
 single man, if I would permit him. On my accepting 
 his services, he selected a trusty and courageous Mexi- 
 can named Leonidas, and started at once on his errand. 
 Mr. Cremony had scarcely left, when Antonio and 
 Carroll, the two men I had sent off early yesterday 
 morning for the sheep, returned. They had followed 
 the San Pedro to the mouth of the Babocomori, think- 
 ing we should move our camp that way; and had 
 fallen in with a party of thirty or forty Mexicans, who 
 had a camp and a corral near the San Pedro, and were 
 engaged in hunting wild cattle. They told the Mexi- 
 cans who we were, and of our desire to get to Santa 
 Cruz ; for when they left us, the couriers had not 
 arrived from General Conde. They also informed them 
 that we had with us a captive girl named Inez Gon- 
 zales, whom we were about restoring to her family. 
 The Mexican party were all from Santa Cruz ; and, 
 singularly enough, the father, uncle, and many of the 
 friends of Inez, were among them ; in fact, there was 
 scarcely one of the number to whom she was not known. 
 This was the first intimation that they had received 
 that the poor girl was living, and had been rescued 
 from her savage captors. They required no urging, 
 but to a man left their hunting ground, and accom- 
 panied Carroll to our camp. 
 
TO SANTA CRUZ. 399 
 
 The joy of the father and friends in again behold- 
 ing the face of her whom they supposed was forever 
 lost from them, was unbounded. Each in turn (rough 
 and half naked as many of them were), embraced her 
 after the Spanish custom ; and it was long ere one 
 could utter a word. Tears of joy burst from all ; and 
 the sun-burnt and brawny men, in whom the finer feel- 
 ings of our nature are wrongly supposed not to exist, 
 wept like children, as they looked with astonishment 
 on the rescued girl. She was not less overcome than 
 they ; and it was long before she could utter the name 
 of her mother, and ask if she and her little brothers 
 yet lived. The members of the Commission who wit- 
 nessed this affectionate and joyful scene, could not but 
 participate in the feelings of the poor child and her 
 friends ; and the big tears as they rolled down their 
 weather-beaten and bearded faces, showed how fully 
 they sympathized with the feelings of our Mexican 
 friends. 
 
 The captain or leader of the party was Don Ilarion 
 Garcia, a gentleman of intelligence, from whom we 
 obtained much interesting information about the coun- 
 try. He was a merchant and government contractor ; 
 had been in California ; and was well acquainted with 
 Colonel Fremont, and the pioneers of that State. He 
 told us of mines in Sonora that produced ores of gold, 
 silver, cinnabar, and copper, in several of which he pos- 
 sessed an interest. 
 
 After leaving our Mexican friends awhile to them- 
 selves, I returned to my tent, to learn the news. They 
 all assured me that the restoration of a young female 
 to her family, after being carried off by the Indians, 
 
400 RIO SAN PEDRO 
 
 was an event unknown to them. Boys occasionally 
 escape from their captors, and find their way again to 
 their homes ; but young women are generally forced 
 to marry, and when they become mothers, they have 
 no desire to return. It was gratifying to the fair cap- 
 tive to learn that her mother, brothers and sisters, were 
 well ; though her mother still pined for the loss of her 
 daughter, under such painful circumstances. 
 
 Two of the party dined with me on the scanty fare 
 I could offer them ; after which they all returned to 
 their camp, except the father and uncle of Inez, who 
 remained to accompany us to Santa Cruz. Finding 
 that we were short of provisions, they sent us a fine 
 quarter of beef. 
 
 Mr. Cremony returned at nine o'clock in the even- 
 ing, and reported that all were well at Lieut. Whip- 
 ple's camp. Mr. Gray, with two or three others, had 
 left several days before for Santa Cruz. We felt con- 
 siderable anxiety on their account ; for as they had not 
 reached there when the couriers left, it was pretty cer- 
 tain, that, like the rest of us, they had missed their way. 
 
 September 21st It rained all day, making it impos- 
 sible to move. More of the hunting party on the San 
 Pedro, visited our camp, to see the captive girl. The 
 men who were unprovided with tents, and the cook, 
 took up their quarters in the old hacienda, where they 
 were sheltered from the rain. 
 
 September 22d. Set off once more for Santa Cruz, 
 recrossing the stream, and passing around the north- 
 western extremity of the Sierra. Our course was then 
 due south to a range of hills, through the valleys of 
 which we pursued our way among scattering live oaks, 
 
TO SANTA CRUZ. 401 
 
 which greatly impeded travel. There was a well- 
 marked trail here, but no wagon road. We were often 
 brought to a stand by the overhanging limbs of the 
 trees, which it was necessary to cut away ; and in 
 spite of all our precautions, the wagon bows were 
 broken. Met a party in a thicket engaged in drying 
 beef, who invited us to help ourselves to as much meat 
 as we wanted from a bull they had just killed ; a per- 
 mission of which we thankfully availed ourselves. At 
 5 o'clock, encamped among the hills in a thick wood r 
 near a small rivulet. 
 
 September 23d Resumed our march at 8 o'clock,, 
 our course still south, through a wood quite difficult 
 for the wagons. A few miles brought us to thepuerta, 
 or gate in the mountain ; passing which, we emerged 
 into a very broad and open plain of remarkable beauty. 
 From the elevation where we first saw this valley, the 
 prospect was exceedingly picturesque. Around us grew 
 the maguay, the yucca, and various kinds of cacti, toge- 
 ther with small oaks ; while beneath us, the valley spread 
 out from six to eight miles in width, and some twelve 
 or fifteen in length. Unlike the desolate and barren 
 plains between the mountain ridges, which we had 
 crossed between the Rio Grande and the San Pedro, 
 this valley was covered with the most luxuriant herb- 
 age, and thickly studded with live oaks ; not like a 
 forest, but rather resembling a cultivated park. While 
 the train was passing down the mountain, I stopped 
 with Mr. Pratt to enjoy the scene, which he hastily 
 transferred to his sketch-book. Opposite from where 
 . we stood, and not more than five miles distant, were 
 the mountain and gorge, where we had been encamped 
 vol. i. — 26 
 
402 RIO SAN PEDRO 
 
 for five days, endeavoring to find a passage through. 
 At the further end of the valley into which we were 
 descending, lay Santa Cruz. I now saw that if I had 
 continued my course due south, as I first intended on 
 leaving the San Pedro camp, I should have struck this 
 valley the second day ; but by following the trail of 
 the Mexican Commission, I was led about eight miles 
 too far west. This brought us on the opposite side of 
 the Sierra, and led us into the gorge from which there 
 was no egress. In passing down the valley, we met 
 Mr. Salazar and Mr. Henry C. Force, with a small 
 party from Santa Cruz bound for the camp on the San 
 Pedro, and the Gila. They informed us of the safe 
 .arrival at Santa Cruz of the Mexican Commission, Dr. 
 Webb and Mr. Gray. 
 
 Before setting out this morning, two men started 
 in advance to advise the mother of Inez of our ap- 
 proach, and when within two miles of the town, we 
 saw a small party approaching, partly on mules and 
 partly on foot, among whom were the fair captive's 
 ■mother, brothers, and uncle. As we drew nearer, Mr. 
 Cremony helped Inez from the saddle, when in perfect 
 ecstacy she rushed to her mother's arms. Words can- 
 not express the joy manifested on this happy occasion. 
 Their screams were painful to hear. The mother 
 could scarcely believe what she saw ; and after every 
 embrace and gush of tears, she withdrew her arms to 
 gaze on the face of her child. I have witnessed many 
 scenes on the stage, of the meeting of friends after a 
 long separation, and have read highly-wrought narra- 
 tives of similar interviews, but none of them approached 
 
N 
 
 
TO SANTA CRUZ. 403 
 
 in pathos the spontaneous burst of feeling exhibited 
 by the mother and daughter on this occasion. Thanks 
 to the Almighty rose above all other sounds, while 
 they remained clasped in each other's arms, for the 
 deliverance from captivity, and the restoration of the 
 beloved daughter to her home and friends. Although 
 a joyful scene, it was a painfully affecting one to the 
 spectators, not one of whom, could restrain his tears. 
 After several minutes of silence, the fond parent em- 
 braced me, and the other gentlemen of the party, in 
 succession, as we were pointed out by her daughter ; 
 a ceremony which was followed by her uncle, and the 
 others, who had by this time joined us. We then re- 
 mounted our animals and proceeded towards the town 
 in silence ; and it was long before either party could 
 compose themselves sufficiently to speak. 
 
 As we journeyed on, we met other-villagers coming 
 out to meet us, and among them two little boys from 
 eight to twelve years of age. They were the brothers 
 of Inez ; and when they saw their sister, they sprung 
 upon the saddle with her, clasping their little arms 
 around her, and like their mother, bursting into tears. 
 Eeleasing their embrace, Inez pointed to us, when the 
 little fellows ran up to our horses and eagerly grasped 
 our hands, trotting along by our sides, while the tears 
 rolled down their cheeks. A little further, we were 
 met by another lad about twelve years of age. He too, 
 embraced the returning captive, and like the others, 
 burst into tears. But those tears were excited by feel- 
 ings very different from those awakened in the other 
 boys, the brothers of Inez. They were tears of des- 
 
404 RIO SAN PEDRO 
 
 pair — of long cherished hope checked in the bud ; — 
 of disappointment — of pain — of misery ! This poor 
 boy was the child of the woman who was made a cap- 
 tive by the Apaches, at the same time with Inez. She 
 and Inez had left their homes together, one year ago 
 this very day, for the fair of Madelena, where their party 
 was when attacked by the Apaches, and all but three 
 killed or taken prisoners. Of the three who were made 
 captives, no news had ever been heard ; and the poor 
 girl now returning, was the first intelligence that either 
 was in existence. The little orphan wrung his hands 
 with despair as he raised his eyes first to the compan- 
 ion of his mother, and then to us, thinking perhaps that 
 we might have regained his parent, as well as her. I 
 was much affected when Inez told me who this lad was, 
 and resolved that I would make an effort for her resto- 
 ration too, as soon as I could communicate the particu- 
 lars to the government, as she is the person who was 
 bought by the New-Mexican traders, and taken to 
 Santa Fe, a short time before the purchase of Inez. 
 
 As we drew near the town, numbers of the inhabi- 
 tants came out to meet us, and welcome back the re- 
 stored captive. When about half a mile distant, Inez 
 wished to dismount and walk thence to the church, 
 that she might first offer up her prayers for her deliv- 
 erance from captivity, before going to her home. Ac- 
 cordingly we all dismounted and accompanied her to 
 the door of the church ; and there she was met by 
 many more of her friends, when they all passed for- 
 ward and knelt down before the altar. We left them 
 engaged in prayer, and waited outside the church until 
 their devotions were concluded. They then passed 
 
TO SANTA CRUZ. 405 
 
 out, and escorted Inez, her parents, brothers and sister, 
 to their home.* 
 
 We pitched our tents just beyond the walls of the 
 town, preferring them to the adobe houses which Gen- 
 eral Conde had kindly placed at my disposition. 
 
 * I have spoken of the father of Inez Gonzales. He was in fact, her 
 step-father, and named Jesus Ortis. He seemed ardently attached to 
 her, and told me he loved her as his own. 
 
406 SANTA CKUZ 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 SANTA CRUZ TO LA MAGDALENA. 
 
 Account of the missing parties — Description of Santa Cruz, and its popu- 
 lation — Departure of Colonel Graham — Set out for La Magdalena — In- 
 crease of party — San Lazero — Cocospera — Its beautiful Valley — The 
 canon where Inez Gonzales was taken — First sight of the Cereus Gigan- 
 teus — Babasaqui — Wild cattle — Iinuris — Terrenati — San Ignacio — Its 
 church — Abundance of Pomegranates — Passports demanded — Proceed 
 to Magdalena— Summoned before the Alcalde — Legend of the origin of 
 the town — Festival of San Francisco — Religious Devotees — Offerings 
 to the Saint — Consecration of ribbons — Booths — Gambling — Perpetual 
 fandango — Vegetable productions near the town — Fine scenery— 'Grand 
 torchlight procession — Close of the Festivities — Description of La 
 Magdalena. 
 
 September 24th. General Conde informed me that he 
 had engaged for me fifteen hundred pounds of flour, 
 but that no other provisions could be obtained, so 
 great was the dearth caused by the frequent incursions 
 of the Apaches. I called on Captain Barragan, the 
 Commanding officer, to procure a portion of this flour 
 at once, to send to Lieut. Whipple and the party on 
 the San Pedro. There was a small grist-mill here 
 under the charge of the Commandante ; but there was 
 no stock of flour on hand, and he was then grinding 
 some for the Mexican Commission. Consequently he 
 could only spare me a small quantity for the parties in 
 
TO LA MAGDALENA. 407 
 
 Santa Cruz, but promised that he would let me have 
 some the following day. 
 
 Some account of the several missing parties may 
 not be improper in this place. The Mexican Com- 
 mission, on whose trail I depended, and which led me 
 out of my proper course, followed an Indian trail the 
 second day after leaving the San Pedro, which led them 
 to the town of Tucson, a military post ninety miles 
 from the Gila and about one hundred from Santa Cruz. 
 They met with great difficulties in crossing the Santa 
 Rita mountains, and were compelled to abandon their 
 wagon. From there they took the road to Santa Cruz, 
 which they reached in five days. Doctor Webb and 
 Mr. Salazar, who proceeded in advance the day after 
 we left the San Pedro, overtook the main body of the 
 Mexican Commission, as we had supposed, and con- 
 tinued with it. Mr. Gray, in his attempt to reach 
 Santa Cruz, followed the same trail, and also brought 
 up at Tucson, from which he took a new start and 
 arrived at the former place. 
 
 Santa Cruz is one of the nine presidios or military 
 posts on the frontier of the State of Sonora, the others 
 being Tucson, Fronteras, Babispe, Bacuachi, Tubac, 
 Altar, San Carlos, and Hermosillo. It was formerly a 
 place of considerable importance, with about fifteen 
 hundred inhabitants ; but at present its population 
 does not exceed three hundred. It possesses a fine 
 valley and bottom land of the richest soil, and is irri- 
 gated by a small stream bearing its own name, which 
 has its rise in springs about ten miles to the north, in 
 the beautiful valley through which we entered the 
 place. It is admirably adapted for the raising of 
 
408 
 
 SANTA CRUZ 
 
 cattle and horses, as well as for all kinds of grain. 
 Wheat, in particular, does' remarkably well here. The 
 Chili Colorado (red pepper), of which such quantities 
 are consumed in Mexico, grows here in perfection, 
 and is said to be preferred on account of its superior 
 piquancy to any raised in Sonora. The climate is 
 milder than in either the southern or northern parts 
 of the State. In the winter it is subject to severe 
 
 Santa Cruz, Sonora. 
 
 frosts, so that the river freezes and snow often lies on 
 the ground for several days. It is, however, a very 
 sickly place, the inhabitants suffering from bilious 
 fevers, in consequence of the proximity of a large 
 marsh three miles west of the town. Many were ill 
 at the time of my visit, and I was desirous to get away 
 as soon as possible. 
 
TO LA MAGDALENA. 409 
 
 This place has suffered more than any other on the 
 frontier from the inroads of -the Apaches, it being on 
 the principal route of communication with the interior 
 from the north, as well as with the settlements of the 
 civilized Indians. The place had become much re- 
 duced and impoverished by the frequent incursions of 
 the Apaches, which prevented the inhabitants from 
 cultivating the soil, except in the immediate vicinity 
 of the town. If they suffered their cattle to stray two 
 miles off, a band of skulking savages would emerge 
 from some thicket where they lay in ambush, and 
 drive them off. If but two or three men were tending 
 them, they were either murdered or compelled to seek 
 safety in flight. In such a miserable state of existence 
 were these people, that they could scarcely venture be- 
 yond the walls of their town, except in parties of six 
 or eight, who must then be well armed ; and if they 
 wanted to go any considerable distance, it was neces- 
 sary to form large parties for mutual protection. It 
 was in September, 1850, when the party with Inez 
 were cut off about twenty miles from Santa Cruz, 
 which led to the complete abandonment of the place. 
 A few months, however, before our arrival, a brigade 
 was raised by General Carrasco, for the protection of 
 the frontier. The presidios were then strengthened; and 
 Fronteras, Santa Cruz, and others, which had been 
 abandoned, were again occupied by their poor and 
 wretched inhabitants. 
 
 I was detained here until the 29th, waiting for the 
 flour and pinole for the Gila parties. A portion had 
 been procured and sent forward several days before, 
 and Mr. Gray remained behind for the remainder. But 
 
410 SANTA CRUZ 
 
 two mules could be obtained here, for which I paid 
 seventy -five dollars each. I also procured some flour 
 for Colonel Graham. On the 28th, he took his depar- 
 ture for the Copper Mines, where his engineers and 
 the party for the survey of the Rio Grande, were still 
 awaiting his return. 
 
 During our stay here, Dr. Webb was engaged three 
 quarters of his time in attending the sick ; for in addi- 
 tion to the many that were suffering with fever, there 
 were cases of a more complicated nature, which re- 
 quired the performance of surgical operations. For 
 his services he made no charge. One would suppose 
 that after attentions of this kind, and the restoration of 
 one of their number from captivity, some little grati- 
 tude would have been shown us by the people of this 
 place ; instead of which, however, depredations were 
 nightly committed in our camp. Meat was stolen from 
 the pot in which it was cooking ; blankets were taken 
 from the men while asleep ; and all the ropes and iron 
 stake-pins that secured our animals were carried off. 
 These last were a serious loss to us, and could not 
 be replaced. We were finally compelled to keep the 
 people away from our camp ; and I felt it my duty to 
 complain to the Ciira of the pilfering propensities of 
 his flock. He was fully aware of their thievish dispo- 
 sition, but was unable to restrain them. Many wanted 
 to be employed as arrieros ; but after the examples we 
 had of their dishonesty, I thought it prudent to have as 
 little to do with them as possible. I engaged, how- 
 ever, Jesus Ortis, the father-in-law of Inez, to be our 
 guide to Magdalena, and further if necessary. 
 
 September 2dth. Being unable to procure any thing 
 
TO LA MAGDALENA. 411 
 
 at Santa Cruz but flour, I determined to go to Magda- 
 lena, a town seventy-five miles further south, where I 
 was told I could find mules, and such articles of pro- 
 visions as I required. The annual fair of San Fran- 
 cisco was to take place in a few days ; and there, it was 
 believed, would be a supply of every thing, particu- 
 larly mules, of which I was most in need. I believed 
 I could get back in ten days, and immediately after 
 join the parties on the Gila. 
 
 When we came to get the mules in, we found that 
 one was missing. I suspected that some of our dishonest 
 friends had concealed it until after we should leave, 
 and requested Captain Barragan to secure it, if it should 
 be seen. 
 
 My journey to Magdalena was taken advantage of 
 by many of the people of Santa Cruz, who wished to 
 go to the fair ; so that when my party was ready to 
 move, I found it increased by fifteen men and two 
 women, all mounted on horses, or mules, like ourselves, 
 making altogether a cavalcade of thirty-one persons, 
 besides our pack-mules. The Mexicans were all clad 
 in their holiday dresses, and presented quite a pictu- 
 resque appearance. The men wore chiefly roundabout 
 jackets, with pantaloons open at the sides, showing 
 their large white cotton drawers beneath. Some of 
 their pantaloons were lined with pink or sky-blue ; and 
 in every case they were decorated with a row of bell- 
 buttons, or clasps, extending from the hip to the ankle. 
 Suspenders they never wear, a red silk sash being 
 generally used to keep the pantaloons in their place. 
 " Every man also carries with him a serajoe, or blanket, 
 which in the cool of the morning and evening is thrown 
 
412 SANTA CRUZ 
 
 gracefully over his shoulders, and at night is used to 
 cover his body. During the heat of the day, it is 
 folded up and laid across his saddle, or fastened on 
 behind. The women always wear the reboso, a scarf 
 which covers the head and neck. In other respects, 
 there is nothing peculiar in their dress, except that 
 they prefer very gaudy colors. 
 
 Our road was said to be infested with Apaches, 
 who were wont to conceal themselves in a canon 
 some ten miles in length, where they attacked small 
 parties. Every man, therefore, took the precaution 
 to be well armed. We did not get away until three 
 o'clock in the afternoon, when a ride of six miles to the 
 south-west brought us to San Lazaro, a large ruined 
 hacienda, on the banks of the Santa Cruz River, where 
 an extensive soap manufactory was formerly carried 
 on. The buildings were beautifully situated in the 
 valley, amid a grove of large cotton-woods, with an 
 extensive orchard of peach and quince trees ; but the 
 fruit had all been gathered by parties who had passed 
 before us, or by the Indians. I walked through the 
 tenantless chambers of the hacienda, which seemed to 
 have been built with a view to comfort and conve- 
 nience unusual in the country. It had been deserted 
 for six years ; and in this short period, the rain had 
 washed away some of its walls, and portions of the 
 roof had fallen in. An adobe building will last many 
 years with care ; but it must be closely watched 
 during the rainy season : for when once the water has 
 found its way through a wall, it very soon makes for 
 itself a wider passage ; next the timber in the roof gives 
 way ; and in a short time, the whole building becomes 
 
TO LA MAGDALENA. 413 
 
 a ruin. The stream here takes a short turn towards 
 the north, passing through Tubac and Tucson ; soon 
 after which it loses itself in the desert, without reach- 
 ing the Gila. Since leaving Santa Cruz, our course had 
 been along the banks of this stream, in many places 
 thickly overgrown with willows and cotton-woods, and 
 hemmed in on both sides with mountains. Many de- 
 serted and ruined ranchos were seen in the valley, for 
 it had not a single inhabitant beyond the walls of Santa 
 Cruz. Rode about six miles further south and encamped. 
 September 2>0th. Eight miles from camp, brought 
 us to Cocospera* an old mission at the head of the kjj^n 
 Miguel River, which was abandoned about six years 
 before in consequence of the inroads of the Apaches. 
 Here, rising from a spur of the plateau, and overlook- 
 ing the valley, stands a church, a building which pre- 
 sents quite an imposing appearance, with its towers 
 and dome still in a good state of preservation. It is 
 surrounded by houses or stalls with fronts open towards 
 the church, which were probably occupied by those 
 who came from a distance to worship ; or they may 
 have been intended for the Indians, many of whom 
 were formerly connected with all these frontier mis- 
 sions, and employed as laborers upon the lands belong- 
 ing to them. The interior of this church must have 
 been very beautiful in its time, when its numerous 
 niches were filled with statues, and its walls covered 
 with paintings. The gilded and painted ornaments 
 
 * This place has since become somewhat notorious from its hav- 
 ing been colonized anew by the party of Frenchmen from California, 
 who subsequently attempted to set up a government of their own, 
 and for a while gave the authorities much trouble. 
 
414 SANTA CRUZ 
 
 upon the walls and ceiling still remained, consisting 
 of crucifixes, doves, and other sacred emblems, sur- 
 rounded by inscriptions, scrolls, and flowers, which 
 displayed more taste than we had before seen in such 
 buildings. Several wooden figures still stood about 
 the altar ; but the pictures were all gone. Bats were 
 already in full possession of the edifice, and hung from 
 the projecting walls and corners, like so many black 
 ornaments; while the swallows which were flitting 
 about us had also taken up their abode here, and 
 added their mud-built nests to its interior decorations. 
 Tigs was one of the richest missions in Sonora ; and 
 its property in cattle was so extensive, that (as we were 
 afterwards told) the increase of a single year amount- 
 ed to ten thousand head. In the valley below and im- 
 mediately adjoining the building, stood the orchard ; 
 well stocked with apples, pomegranates, peaches, and 
 quinces. These last we found in the greatest profu- 
 sion, the trees still bending with their loads of fruit. 
 There are two varieties of the quince here, one hard 
 and tart like our own, the other sweet and eatable 
 in its raw state, yet preserving the rich flavor of the 
 former. The Mexicans gathered and ate them like 
 apples ; but I found them still too hard for my diges- 
 tive organs. We gathered a few, which we afterwards 
 stewed ; they were then very palatable, and in a meas- 
 ure supplied the place of vegetables. The valley here 
 is more than half a mile wide, and seems once to have 
 been well cultivated. 
 
 Proceeding down the valley, we noticed many 
 ruined ranchos, corrals, and other remains of a civil- 
 ized community, now overgrown with tall grass and 
 
TO LA MAGDALENA. 415 
 
 shrubbery. Cotton-wood trees and sycamores of a 
 large size grew along the margin of the stream, and 
 at intervals were found in groups. The grass every 
 where was rich and abundant. It was really sad to 
 see so beautiful a region reverting to the condition of a 
 wilderness in consequence of the attacks of ruthless 
 marauders. We now approached the dreaded canon, 
 where our fair captive, Inez Gonzales, had been taken 
 and her companions murdered, one year and seven 
 days before. Our Mexican companions had been talk- 
 ing of it all the morning ; and as we drew nearer and 
 were about to enter the defile, they huddled more 
 closely together, each fearful of taking the lead, or of 
 being ten feet from the rest. They were going to the 
 same fair as before ; and it was believed that the Apa- 
 ches, knowing of the large numbers that annually col- 
 lected at Magdalena, were on the watch for their victims 
 in all the mountain passes, where they could lie in ambush 
 and throw their lances or arrows at the passing travel- 
 ler. We soon came to a spot where, in a dense thicket 
 of forest and shrubbery, our attention was directed to 
 a rude cross. Here was the fatal spot where, on the 
 occasion above referred to, the savages rushed from 
 their ambuscade, shooting several of the Mexicans with 
 their muskets, and piercing others with their long 
 lances, before they could recover themselves and act 
 on the defensive. Within twenty feet of the path ran 
 the stream, whose mysterious murmuring beneath the 
 dense foliage seemed a fit appendage to such a deed 
 of blood. The mountains here on either side of the 
 defile approached within a hundred feet of the path ; 
 though in some places they are much nearer, and rise 
 
416 SANTA CRUZ 
 
 from five to eight hundred feet, either abruptly or with 
 steep-sloping banks. 
 
 We saw here, for the first time, the giant Cereus 
 ( Cereus giganteus), or petahaya, of the Mexicans. This 
 monster of the cactus family assumes various forms ; 
 sometimes rising in a single fluted column to the height 
 of thirty or forty -feet ; sometimes, at eight or ten feet 
 from the ground, it divides into two or more branches, 
 which turn upwards like the prongs of an inverted 
 fork ; others again throw off four or more arms, dis- 
 posed with great symmetry, and having the appearance 
 of gigantic candelabra. These covered the rocks on 
 both sides for miles ; and among them grew numerous 
 humbler species of the same family, some loaded with 
 rich red fruit, and others trailing their snaky branches 
 over the ground, altogether forming a striking and 
 peculiar vegetation, unlike any thing we had before 
 seen. 
 
 After winding our way about ten miles through 
 this defile, we again emerged into a plain or broad 
 valley, through which still coursed the beautiful little 
 stream which we first met at Cocospera ; though by 
 what name to call it, I hardly know. Like many of 
 the largest streams which wind among the mountains 
 and across the plains of Mexico, this bears several 
 names, according to the towns which stand upon its 
 bank. Cocospera, Imuriz, San Ignacio,and San Miguel, 
 have been applied to it in turn ; and I cannot find, from 
 the maps which I have consulted, that it bears any 
 general name. It forms the western branch of the 
 Sonora River, one of the principal streams in the State. 
 
 When we again found ourselves in the open coun- 
 
TO LA MAGDALENA. 417 
 
 try and beyond the dreaded canon, our Mexican 
 friends showed themselves less desirous of keeping 
 as close to us as they had done. Soon after they 
 told us they wished to reach Imuriz before night, 
 when we took leave of them; and having already 
 come thirty miles, we thought best to stop near the 
 little town of Babasaqui. Our general course during 
 the day had been south south-west We passed many 
 deserted ranchos with fine orchards near them; but 
 not a living being had been seen until we reached 
 this settlement. In the orchards we found more fruit 
 than we had seen before — from the fact, probably, that 
 there were but few travellers this way, and people did 
 not dare venture so far from their homes for the luxury. 
 We gathered a supply of delicious peaches, with which 
 we filled our haversacks and pockets. Many wild cat- 
 tle were seen to-day, some of which crossed our path 
 quite near us. A bull gave chase to Mr. Thurber, and 
 pursued him until he regained our camp. 
 
 After the tents were pitched, we strolled up to the 
 village, where we found an uncle of Inez. He had not 
 before heard of the restoration of his niece, and express- 
 ed a thousand thanks to us all. In the evening, he r 
 with several others, came to our camp, bringing milk, 
 cheese, tortillas, and peaches, which they begged us to 
 accept. It was all they had to give except their 
 thanks, and they seemed much pleased at our accept- 
 ing them. The people here seemed very quiet and 
 well disposed, with well cultivated fields, which showed 
 that they devoted a portion of their time, at least, to 
 labor. A man living here who had a contract to furnish 
 the government with five hundred head of cattle, told 
 vol. i. — 27 
 
418 SANTA CRUZ 
 
 us that so abundant were they in this valley and the ad- 
 jacent plains, that he had not yet begun to collect them, 
 although all were to be delivered on the 10th of October. 
 His mode of catching them was that before alluded to, 
 viz., to lasso them by the head or horns, then fasten 
 them to the heads of domesticated cattle, and drive them 
 to a corral or pen. During the night, we heard the 
 bellowing of the wild bulls quite near us, and felt some 
 apprehension that they might make a charge upon us, 
 and stampede our mules, if they did no other mischief. 
 
 October 1st. A south-easterly course of three miles 
 brought us to Imuriz, a miserable looking village. 
 There was an improvement which I noticed in the 
 adobe houses here ; they were all capped with brick 
 or tiles, which gave them an air of finish and durability 
 above those that are simply capped with mud. Here 
 we rounded a mountain, and then followed a valley in 
 the same direction. Every thing now around us indi- 
 cated an approach to a civilized, or rather, I should 
 say, a settled, country. Ranchos with cultivated 
 grounds, fields of wheat and corn, orchards teeming 
 with peaches and pomegranates, met us with every 
 expansion of the valley. The contracted foot-path, or 
 mule trail, however, still showed that we had not yet 
 reached the country of wheeled vehicles, all the trans- 
 portation being carried on by means of pack-mules. 
 We met many people to-day passing from one village 
 or rancho to another; and not a little curiosity was 
 manifested at seeing such a group of white faces with 
 long beards wending our way among them. 
 
 Riding up to the church, which appeared quite 
 new, we dismounted and hitched our animals, to take 
 
TO LA MAGDALENA. 
 
 419 
 
 a brief inspection of it. Like the other buildings of 
 the country, it was constructed of adobe, but had 
 neither steeple nor tower. Three bells were sus- 
 pended from a frame in front, on one of which, I 
 noticed the date 1680. There was nothing of interest 
 here; so we journeyed on to Terrenati, a village of 
 three or four hundred souls, two miles distant. Con- 
 tinuing our ride six or eight miles further still, and 
 following the same stream that we first met at Coco- 
 pera, we reached San Ignacio. We rode into the plaza 
 facing the church, and, dismounting, applied at an ad- 
 joining house for admission into the sacred edifice. 
 
 Door-way of the Church, San Ignacio. 
 
 We were received with much politeness, and con- 
 ducted by a young woman through an entrance near 
 the altar into the church, which did not meet my ex- 
 pectations, as it was by no means in keeping with the 
 exterior of the building. There were but few pictures 
 
420 SANTA CRUZ 
 
 on the walls; and the statues, which are of wood, 
 and from two to four feet high, were quite ordinary. 
 Among the latter, 1 noticed two Chinese figures, 
 intended doubtless for mandarins, but here metamor- 
 phosed into saints. These images reminded me at 
 once of our proximity to the Pacific, with its opposite 
 shore formed by the Celestial Empire, between which 
 and Mexico, there was formerly a flourishing com- 
 merce. I asked the attendant if those figures were 
 not from China ; to which I received the usual and 
 unsatisfactory reply of " Quien sabef I suppose she 
 knew as little of China as of the topography of the 
 moon ; and as to the personages they originally repre- 
 sented, it was a matter of perfect indifference to her 
 and the people who worshipped there. The church is 
 built entirely of brick, being the first edifice of that 
 material we had seen. It has two towers, and is on 
 the whole a picturesque looking structure. This was 
 one of the earliest missions established in Sonora, and 
 was founded about the year 1687. Though the mis- 
 sion has been abandoned for many years, the results of 
 Jesuit industry are still apparent in the shape of some 
 pomegranate orchards. 
 
 We had heard much of the superiority of the pome- 
 granates of this place, for they are famed in all the 
 region round about; and for once in this country we 
 met with something that really came up to our expec- 
 tations. They were delicious beyond comparison. 
 Some specimens measured sixteen inches in circum- 
 ference, and they were sold at from one to two dozen 
 the real (twelve and a half cents). Immediately over 
 the wall where we stood, was a large orchard with long 
 
TO LA MAGDALENA. 421 
 
 lines of these trees bending under their luscious burden ; 
 the deep brilliant green of their foliage presenting a 
 striking contrast with the bright yellow of the fruit. 
 Great quantities are used in the distillation of a strong 
 and fiery species of aguardiente. The man through 
 whose house we entered the church was quite polite 
 to us, and invited us to drink of this liquor, and to help 
 ourselves from heaps of the fruit and of peaches like- 
 wise. 
 
 The place is quite neat for a Mexican town, and we 
 left it with a very favorable impression, which how- 
 ever was somewhat weakened ere long. After we had 
 proceeded a mile upon the road, I received an invita- 
 tion from the Alcalde to return. Expecting some 
 civilities from the head man of the place, I somewhat 
 reluctantly obeyed ; for I was desirous to reach Magda- 
 lena before nightfall, and would willingly have dis- 
 pensed with these hospitalities. I found, however, that 
 his object was to ascertain who we were, and to see 
 our passports. I informed him who I was, and added 
 that by virtue of my office, I claimed a right to go any 
 where in pursuance of objects connected with my 
 duties. The gentlemen with me, I told him, were at- 
 tached to the Commission; and if he desired to be 
 satisfied of the truth of my statement, he must send to 
 Magdalena, whither we were going ; as my papers were 
 now with my baggage on the pack-mules several miles 
 in advance. The little, fat, puffy official, was not at 
 all satisfied ; he seemed to distrust my statement, and 
 wished us to go before the Prefect, to which I deci- 
 dedly objected. I again politely told him that I should 
 be in Magdalena a couple of days, and would there 
 
422 SANTA CRUZ 
 
 satisfy his doubts. Continuing our journey, a ride of 
 six miles through a richly cultivated valley brought 
 us to La Magdalena, or rather within half a mile of it, 
 where we encamped. I did not wish to go nearer the 
 town, on account of the large number of people that 
 would be assembled there. 
 
 October 2d. Before I was out of my bed, (and I 
 rose before the sun,) a messenger came to my tent and 
 asked for the "Commandante." I heard him making 
 inquiry of the cook, and, springing from my cot, went 
 to the tent-door and asked his business. He said the 
 Alcalde desired to see me as soon as possible. I told 
 him I did not make calls at that hour, but would see 
 him after breakfast. Accordingly, about nine o'clock, 
 I waited upon that dignitary, accompanied by Dr. 
 Webb, Mr. Cremony, and Mr. Thurber. He proved 
 to be a shop-keeper of the third class, occupying a 
 filthy little place, with a stock in trade, I should think, 
 worth some twenty-five dollars. I told him that agree- 
 ably to his orders I had called upon him, and desired 
 to know his commands. He presented me a letter 
 which he had just received from the Prefect of San 
 Ignacio. It stated that a party of Americans had 
 passed through that place, who, on being called upon 
 to show their passports, had said they would do so at 
 La Magdalena. That he wished us to be examined and 
 detained until he came, which would be to-day. Mr. 
 Cremony then introduced me as the Commissioner of 
 the United States, explaining my duties and those of 
 the gentlemen attached to my party. I first stated to 
 him briefly the object of my visit to La Magdalena, viz., 
 to purchase provisions and mules for our surveying 
 
TO LA MAGDALEN A. 423 
 
 parties at the Gila ; and then showed him my commis- 
 sion, with the great seal of the United States and the 
 bold signature of Zachary Taylor affixed to it, toge- 
 ther with letters from General Conde and Carrasco, 
 requesting the civil and military authorities to extend 
 to me every aid in their power. Whether it was the 
 name of the hero of Buena Vista or the number and 
 character of my letters that produced the effect, I do 
 not know ; but he expressed himself perfectly satisfied 
 before I had got half through, and said that he was 
 only acting by order of the Prefect of San Ignacio. I 
 told him that the Prefect had not treated us well ; that 
 I had stopped in the public square with my party, and 
 had been for more than an hour in the church, or in 
 the dwelling house of one of the citizens, when a 
 hundred of the people were around us, and knew our 
 history ; that instead of asking me then, he had per- 
 mitted me to resume my journey, and after getting a 
 mile from the town, had ordered us back. After many 
 apologies, the Alcalde told us to go where we pleased, 
 and very politely tendered his services. 
 
 I did not really blame the authorities alluded to 
 except for compelling us to retrace our steps. The 
 quiet people here have been so much annoyed by 
 the conduct of California emigrants who have passed 
 through the country, as to make them shy of all Ameri- 
 cans. These reckless adventurers often set at defiance 
 all law and propriety, and we had many accounts of 
 their shameful and brutal conduct. The fields in this 
 country are seldom fenced, and it is no uncommon 
 thing for a party of these men to encamp and turn 
 their animals into a field of corn, on which the help- 
 
424 SANTA CRUZ 
 
 less ranchero and his family are probably depending 
 for their chief support. They will enter a house, pistol 
 in hand, demanding whatever it affords ; frequently 
 they help themselves, without the ceremony of paying 
 for what they take ; and commit other outrages which 
 make one who has any national pride blush to hear 
 recited. 
 
 This affair being ended, we walked around the 
 plaza, or public square, where crowds of people were 
 busily occupied in setting up their booths for the 
 approaching fiesta of San Francisco. These were 
 chiefly constructed with boughs of trees lashed to- 
 gether, and covered with the same. A few had 
 begun to display their wares. We next went into 
 the church. 
 
 Although San Franciscos are as common in Mexico, 
 as Washingtons, Jeffersons, and Franklins are with us, 
 and churches dedicated to that saint are to be found all 
 over the country ; yet this of La Magdalena is the most 
 celebrated and potent of all, inasmuch as it contains a 
 celebrated figure of San Francisco, which, among other 
 miracles, performed that of selecting the place of its 
 abode. A party of San Franciscans, as the legend 
 goes, were travelling in search of a proper spot to 
 found an establishment, and had among their other 
 effects this sainted figure packed upon a mule. On 
 arriving at this place, the animal carrying the precious 
 burden became obstinate, and refused to budge. This 
 the worthy fathers interpreted as indicating the Saint's 
 pleasure to stop here. So here they built the church. 
 The original building, with the exception of the tower, 
 is in ruins ; but a new one has been erected within a 
 
TO LA MAGDALENA. 425 
 
 few years, which, is quite an imposing edifice, with two 
 fine towers and a large dome, beneath which the Saint 
 reposes. 
 
 For several days previous to the 4th of October, 
 which is the Saint's day, preparations for its celebra- 
 tion begin ; so that the devotions and offerings, with 
 their accompanying festivities, are in full blast a day or 
 two in advance. La Magdalena and the Church of 
 San Francisco are the Mecca of devout Mexican Catho- 
 lics. From the borders of Sinaloa on the south to the 
 furthest outpost near the Gila, and from the Gulf of 
 California to the Sierra Madre, they flock in by thou- 
 sands, to offer their devotions at this shrine. It is not 
 unusual for very great sinners to bring their burden 
 of guilt a distance of four or five hundred miles ; a 
 journey in this country of greater difficulty, and requir- 
 ing more time, than one from New Orleans to Quebec. 
 The poorer classes often come a hundred miles on 
 foot, begging by the way. The more penitent, like 
 the idolaters before the temple of Juggernaut, or the 
 devout Mohammedan at the shrine of his prophet, pros- 
 trate themselves, and, with their hands crossed on their 
 breasts, advance on their knees a hundred feet or 
 more to the church. Both men and women are thus 
 seen toiling over the dusty street and brick pavement 
 of the church to the presence of the Saint, who is laid 
 out beneath the dome and in front of the altar. When 
 the votaries reach the bier, they cross themselves, and 
 with outstretched arms repeat their prayers. They 
 then rise to their feet, and, drawing nearer, present 
 "their offerings. 
 
 The body of San Francisco, or rather its image, lies 
 
426 SANTA CRUZ 
 
 upon a platform or bier clothed in rich vestments, and 
 covered with a piece of satin damask of the most gor- 
 geous colors. The head, hands, and feet are alone ex- 
 posed. These are made of wood, colored to represent 
 flesh ; and I was informed by a Mexican gentleman, 
 that these constituted the whole statue. The body, he 
 told me, was merely a frame-work, stuffed with rags 
 and cloths to give it a form, over which the drapery 
 was disposed. The offerings consist of money and 
 candles ; and as wax is quite expensive here, the poorer 
 class present candles of tallow. There was a continual 
 jingling of money ; in fact, so constant was the drop- 
 ping of silver dollars into the receptacle placed for 
 them, that no other sound was heard. What was sin- 
 gular in all this mummery was, that no priest was 
 present. The men who took the money were ordina- 
 rily dressed, having on nothing to distinguish them 
 from the crowd around. There may have been a priest 
 behind the altar or somewhere not visible to the 
 devotees ; but while I stood by the side of the image . 
 and witnessed the proceedings on two occasions, I 
 could perceive none. An estimate may be formed of 
 the crowds here present, when I state that the receipts 
 this year, although the attendance was less than usual, 
 were about twelve thousand dollars ; while on some 
 former occasions, the amount of money voluntarily 
 given had reached the sum of eighteen thousand. To 
 the question what become of all this money, I received 
 the usual reply of " Quien sale f" A gentleman, how- 
 ever, told me that it went to the city of Mexico, and 
 that neither the poor of Magdalena nor the church 
 there derived any benefit from it. 
 
TO LA MAGDALENA. 427 
 
 In the evening I visited the church again, when I 
 witnessed the ceremony of consecrating ribbons. The 
 space around the image was crowded as in the morn- 
 ing with devotees, each provided with a piece of rib- 
 bon. The mode of consecrating it depended upon the 
 ailment of the applicant. If he or she had a pain in 
 the head, the ribbon was passed several times across 
 the forehead of the figure by the officiating Franciscans. 
 If blind, the ribbon was passed across the eyes ; if 
 lame, or afflicted with rheumatism, it was passed over 
 the arms or legs ; and in many instances I saw it 
 drawn between the toes of the Saint. Had some of 
 our turtle-fed aldermen been the applicants for the 
 latter process, one might have believed it to be for 
 the gout ; but I fancy that a diet of frijoles and tortil- 
 las does not often engender that disease in Mexico. 
 Some of the worshippers were provided with long 
 pieces of ribbon, which they applied in turn to every 
 part, a knot being tied after each application, making, 
 probably, as one of the gentlemen observed, " a sort 
 of family medicine chest." The faith of the people in 
 this thing of wood and paint is astonishing. An old 
 man told us with the utmost seriousness, that last May, 
 when the cholera visited the place, and was cutting 
 off twenty a day, they had only to bring the image 
 into the street, and the disease at once disappeared. 
 He was asked what he would have thought if the dis- 
 ease continued. He replied, "That it was the will of 
 the Saint, and we must submit." 
 
 In our rambles, we dropped into an attractive- 
 looking shop to make inquiries about such provisions 
 as we required. The proprietor, Senor Gonzales, was 
 
428 SANTA CRUZ 
 
 a native Castilian, which we soon perceived by the 
 purity of his language. He at once recognized us as 
 Americans ; and after answering our inquiries, invited 
 us into an inner apartment, furnished very handsomely, 
 and in good taste. One of the first things I noticed 
 here was an American rocking chair — an article of 
 luxury better adapted, one would suppose, to the quiet 
 habits of the Mexicans, with their fondness for a siesta 
 during the heat of the day, than to those of rest- 
 less Yankees. Wine and other refreshments were 
 offered us; and an hour was agreeably spent in con- 
 versation with our new acquaintance. He gave us 
 much information about the country, and the ceremo- 
 nies we had just witnessed. While there, several 
 strangers, also gentlemen of education and respecta- 
 bility, came in ; and rinding who we were, and of what 
 we were in pursuit, they gave us such information as 
 we required, and tendered us their services. I regret- 
 ted to learn that we could ndt procure the provisions 
 we needed ; but it was expected that the fair would 
 bring many mules into market, so that in a few days 
 we could obtain all that we wanted. 
 
 In the evening we walked about the town, and 
 among the booths, which were arranged on every side 
 of the plaza, and along the principal streets. They 
 seemed much like those which it was customary to 
 erect in New- York on the Fourth of July. Cakes of 
 various kinds, tortillas, fruits, and aguardiente, were 
 the staple articles ; but while there were booths 
 entirely appropriated to the sale of this intoxicating 
 liquor, I do not remember to have seen a single 
 drunken man. In the midst of these booths was a large 
 
TO LA MAGDALENA. 429 
 
 inclosure. covered with the boughs of trees, beneath 
 which some hundreds were assembled, and engaged in 
 dancing. An enormous bass drum, which was heard 
 above all other sounds, a couple of violins, and a cla- 
 rionet, ground out waltzes and polkas, while the beaux 
 were swinging round the senoritas in a manner that 
 would astonish our dancing community. Notwith- 
 standing the crowd here assembled, most of whom 
 were strangers to each other, the most perfect order 
 was kept. The Mexican people are ardently devoted 
 to dancing ; and when they once enter into it, they 
 do not cease until the sun appears the following day. 
 Some of our party who were given to this amusement 
 thought they would like to take a few turns. So, 
 casting a glance along the line of dark-eyed damsels 
 who occupied the benches, and selecting the most 
 attractive, they advanced without any introduction, 
 led them into the arena, and at once joined in the 
 merry whirl. A perpetual fandango was thus kept up 
 day and night ; where people of all sorts, sizes, and 
 conditions might be seen twirling to the slow measure 
 of the Spanish reel, or the more active waltz and 
 polka. But gambling, after all, seemed to predomi- 
 nate. Whole ranges of booths were devoted to this 
 exciting amusement; and crowds of every age, sex, 
 and class were assembled about them. Boys and girls 
 of six and eight years of age laid down their coppers, 
 and men their reals and dollars ; while at other tables 
 the more wealthy and aristocratic ventured their 
 ounces. Some of the tables were attended by women, 
 selected, not on account of their personal beauty, but 
 for their expertness in shuffling the cards. 
 
430 SANTA CRUZ 
 
 October 3d. Accompanied Mr. Pratt to the hills 
 opposite our camp, to take some sketches. The hills 
 were separated from the camp by the river, on the 
 banks of which were some hundreds of men and 
 women bathing or washing. A few cotton-wood 
 trees grew along the valley ; and the margin of the 
 stream was lined with willow-bushes. The hills here 
 are about five hundred feet high ; and from them we 
 had a fine view of the town and adjacent plain, which 
 was inclosed towards the south by a high range of 
 mountains. The hill where we stood was literally 
 covered with cacti of every variety that we had seen, 
 from tiny plants not longer than one's thumb, just 
 projecting from some crevice, to the giant cereus, that 
 shot up to the height of fifty feet. The agave, yucca, 
 fouquiera, Spanish bayonet, mezquit, and other plants, 
 alike grew in profusion around us. 
 
 In the evening we again visited the church, where 
 the same scenes were going on as before described. It 
 was now brilliantly illuminated, and a procession was 
 marching through the crowd, each individual in it 
 holding a lighted candle in his hand. The music was 
 performed by a circus band, from Hermosillo, which 
 played the same pieces for the interludes of the service 
 as it did for the performances of evening. Some 
 of our popular Ethiopian melodies occasionally greeted 
 the ear. 
 
 October Ath. Finding it impossible to obtain pro- 
 visions here, I determined to go to Ures, the Capital 
 of the State of Sonora, about ninety miles distant, for 
 the purpose of procuring what we needed, and of nego- 
 tiating my drafts on the government, which I could 
 
\, l: 
 
 
 
 ■I 
 Mb 
 
 I ■ .villi:! 
 
 fi|:i ! ii:ii : ' 
 
TO LA MAGDALENA. 431 
 
 not do here. Senor Gonzales agreed to furnish the 
 mules I wanted, but could not do so under a week or 
 ten days. I accordingly gave him an order to procure 
 for me ten pack and four riding mules, sundry pack- 
 saddles, etc., which were to be delivered me on my 
 return from Ures. 
 
 In the afternoon, services were performed over the 
 figure of San Francisco, preparatory to its being car- 
 ried through the streets in grand procession. As soon 
 as the sun had set, the eight bells commenced a merry 
 peal, the church was illuminated, and the procession 
 formed. The figure was brought forth on a platform, 
 or bier, over which was a canopy of crimson satin; 
 and two lines were formed extending across the plaza, 
 each individual bearing a lighted wax-candle in his 
 hand. I estimated the number in the procession car- 
 rying these candles at twelve hundred. A band of 
 music led the way, followed by boys and men swing- 
 ing censers of incense. Next came the Saint immedi- 
 ately preceded by a priest ; and a crowd of women 
 carrying lighted candles followed, constituting the 
 main body of the procession. Innumerable small 
 rockets were thrown up by the populace, which flew 
 about in all directions, and fell among the crowd. 
 Muskets too were fired by such as had them from the 
 streets and the house-tops, as the procession passed 
 along. On the whole, the noise and confusion re- 
 minded us of the celebration of the 4th of July, and 
 seemed to exhibit quite as little devotional feeling as 
 that day brings forth among us. It was one continual 
 scene of amusement and hilarity from the begining to 
 the end. After marching across the plaza and through 
 
432 SANTA CRUZ TO LA MAGDALEN A. 
 
 one of the streets, the whole distance not exceeding 
 a quarter of a mile, the image was carried back to 
 the church and laid on the shelf until the next year ; 
 and so the grand fiesta ended. 
 
 We dined to-day with our Castilian friend, Senor 
 Gonzales ; and at his house we met several Mexican 
 gentlemen, among them Don Ilarion Garcia, whom we 
 saw at our camp on the San Pedro. 
 
 La Magdalena is the best built town we had yet 
 seen ; the houses are chiefly of adobe, though some 
 are of brick, and nearly all are stuccoed and white- 
 washed. Many are colored yellow and otherwise 
 ornamented, in a manner exhibiting considerable taste. 
 The permanent population does not exceed fifteen 
 hundred souls, which number, during the days of the 
 festival of San Francisco, is swelled to ten or twelve 
 thousand. 
 
ILLNESS AND DETENTION AT URES. 433 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 ILLNESS AND DETENTION AT URES. 
 
 Leave La Magdalena — Taken ill — Diary breaks of — Sufferings on the road 
 — Reach ITres— Poor quarters — Dr. "Webb and rest of party visit Guay- 
 mas — Kindness of Dr. Campbell — Description of Ures, the capital of 
 Sonora — Theatricals — The Yaqui Indians — The Opate Indians — Visit 
 from Tanori, an Opate chief — Other Indian tribes of Sonora — Exports 
 — Narrative of an expedition against the Apaches — My party leave me 
 and go to the Gila — Taken to Dr. Campbell's — Irruption of the Apaches 
 — Imbecility of the Mexicans — Tanori and the Opate Indians go in pur- 
 suit — Visit from the Coco-Maricopa Indians of the Gila — Good news 
 from Tanori — He defeats the Apaches and recovers the stock — En- 
 trance of the victors with the recovered booty into Ures — Death of 
 General Garcia Conde — His character — -An American held in bondage 
 — Arrival of General Flores — Departure for the coast. 
 
 October 6th. We left La Magdalena in the afternoon, 
 taking a south-easterly course across a plain covered 
 with grass and mezquit bushes. There was no wagon 
 road, wheeled vehicles not yet being used. We fol- 
 lowed a large and well beaten road, which, though 
 traversed by thousands of animals and pedestrians, was 
 in many places, where it wound over the hills, no more 
 than a narrow path twelve or eighteen inches in width. 
 Crowds of people returning to their homes lined the 
 road ; so that we had no lack of company. We are 
 still in a country infested by bands of Apaches, who 
 
 vol. i.— 28 
 
434 ILLNESS AND 
 
 •« 
 
 prowl among the mountains and pounce upon any- 
 small and unprotected party that may fall in their way. 
 We journeyed but twelve miles when we encamped. 
 
 With the above, my diary breaks off. The follow- 
 ing day, I felt quite ill, and when we encamped, early 
 in the afternoon, was unable to record what had passed 
 or to make any notices of the country. The day after, 
 my illness continued, and my appetite left me entirely. 
 I still kept in my saddle, and, by stopping every hour 
 or so and lying down, was enabled to reach a camp-/ 
 ing place early in the day. Ranchos and villages 
 being at short distances apart, we found no difficulty 
 in halting where it suited our convenience. On the 
 sixth day after leaving Magdalena we reached Tires, 
 passing through the villages of Cucurpe, Tuape, Opo- 
 depe, and Rayon, a distance of forty leagues. It was 
 a most painful journey to me. I was obliged to keep 
 on horseback, there being no other means of convey- 
 ance. During the day, between the hours of ten and 
 four 5 the sun was intensely hot, and the rays from 
 the light colored soil gave me a severe pain in my 
 head. I used an umbrella when the wind did not 
 blow, which gave me some relief; nevertheless, I 
 was compelled to make frequent stops, and avail my- 
 self of a bushy tree or shrub that afforded a shade, 
 where I could lie down and rest. I would wil- 
 lingly have stopped; but the miserable little places 
 we passed afforded no comforts, and my companions 
 agreed with me that it was best to push on for Ures. 
 As the nights were cold, requiring two or three blank- 
 
DETENTION AT URES. 435 
 
 ets, it was necessary that I should go into quarters and 
 keep as quiet as possible. Two of the party therefore 
 rode on in advance, taking with them my letters to 
 Governor Aguilar. We reached the borders of the 
 town before they rejoined us ; and I was glad to throw 
 myself on a tent cloth in the shade of a mezquit tree, 
 and there await the return of my friends. Soon after 
 they came, but had only succeeded after much search 
 in obtaining a room in the rear of an unoccupied shop, 
 of which I at once took possession. The walls were 
 of uncolored adobe, and the floor of brick, while the 
 light was admitted from a small barred window resem- 
 bling that of a prison, which opened into a court yard. 
 My furniture consisted of my portable cot, a leather 
 pannier which contained a small portion of my clothes, 
 and a camp stool. The morning after I arrived, the 
 Governor, Don Jose de Aguilar, called on me and 
 kindly offered his services ; but I was too ill to say 
 much, or even listen with attention. An American 
 physician, Doctor Campbell, who had long resided in 
 the place and had been a resident of the State for some 
 twenty -five years, hearing of my arrival, came at once 
 to see me ; and from what he said, I found that my 
 illness was a serious one, and that I should not be able 
 to leave for a long time. Doctor Webb remained with 
 me ; and my servant, a faithful Irishman named William 
 Turner, also occupied a corner of the room. After 
 being here about two weeks, I was carried to other 
 and somewhat more comfortable quarters. 
 
 My new room was about twenty-five feet square, 
 with a brick floor and colored walls ; and as is gener- 
 ally the case with the smaller apartments in large 
 
436 ILLNESS AND 
 
 houses, there was no window, the light being admitted 
 from the door. But the greatest deprivation was the 
 want of a fire-place, of which I afterwards learned 
 there was but one in the whole town, and that was in 
 the house of Doctor Campbell. This gentleman sent 
 me a table and a couple of chairs ; so that in the mat- 
 ter of furniture I now considered myself well off. 
 
 About this time, finding my fever was of such a 
 nature that it would be weeks, if not months, before I 
 should be able to resume my journey, I thought it best 
 to send Doctor Webb, Mr. Thurber, and Mr. Cremony 
 to Guaymas, on the Gulf of California, for the purpose 
 of negotiating my drafts, to enable me to pay for the 
 provisions and mules I had purchased. They accord- 
 ingly left for that place, Mr. Pratt and his son remain- 
 ing and occupying an apartment next to mine. 
 
 Doctor Campbell, to whom I shall ever feel under 
 the deepest obligation for his kindness and constant 
 attention, visited me daily, and often called two or 
 three times during the twenty-four hours. I had occa- 
 sional visits too from Dr. Wallace, an English physician 
 who had formerly been in practice at Ures, but had 
 lately abandoned the profession, and was then en- 
 gaged in working a silver mine, about twenty miles 
 
 off. There was also a German physician, Dr. — , 
 
 of Hermosillo, who made me several calls ; so that on 
 the whole, although my comforts were few, I was well 
 provided with medical attendance. I felt the want of 
 a fire the most, for I never slept with less than four 
 heavy blankets over me. These, it is true, kept me 
 comfortable at night ; but during the day, in the months 
 of November and December, when I wished to sit up, 
 
DETENTION AT URES. 437 
 
 I felt much inconvenience from the cold. The lowest 
 point at which I noticed the thermometer was 40° 
 Fahrenheit ; which for a sick man, with no fire, and 
 the door open to admit light, cannot be said to be com- 
 fortable. Nevertheless, thanks to an all-protecting 
 Providence, and the excellent attendance I enjoyed, 
 the privations I was subject to did not prevent my re- 
 covery ; and by the middle of December, I was able, 
 with the assistance of my friends, to walk out. 
 
 Dr. Webb and his party reached Guaymas in safety ; 
 but there he was taken ill with a fever, which detained 
 him two weeks beyond the time allotted for his journey. 
 The others also had slight attacks. On their return, I 
 was still very weak, though convalescent. Dr. Camp- 
 bell, who had had much experience in the fevers of the 
 country, said it would not be possible for me in my 
 enfeebled state to make the long journey to the Gila, 
 where our surveying parties were, and thence to Cali- 
 fornia. Both he and Doctor Webb advised that I 
 should remain in Ures until my strength was sufficient- 
 ly restored to enable me to proceed to Guaymas, and 
 should then embark in some sailing vessel for Mazat- 
 lan, from which place I could take passage for San 
 Diego, in California, where the engineering parties 
 would meet me. As soon as I determined on this step, 
 I considered it best that the party which had accompa- 
 nied me should retrace their steps to Santa Cruz, and 
 from that place rejoin the parties on the Gila. 
 
 On the fifteenth of December, the party took leave 
 of me and set off, accompanied by eight Mexicans, 
 whom Governor Cubillas had kindly provided to escort 
 them as far as Santa Cruz ; there they hoped to find 
 
438 ILLNESS AND 
 
 General Conde or some of the Mexican Commission, 
 from whom a further escort could be procured to the 
 Gila. Our journey to Ures through the unfrequented 
 parts of the State, although unattended by any attacks 
 from the Indians, had not been without danger ; and 
 as it was known that bands of Apaches were prowl- 
 ing about, and had committed many depredations in 
 the vicinity of the town, the authorities did not think 
 it safe for our small party to return without protection. 
 Being now left alone with my faithful attendant, 
 William Turner, who did duty in the triple capacity of 
 servant, nurse, and cook, my excellent friend, Dr. 
 Campbell, insisted on my taking up my quarters in his 
 house, where I should be better provided for, and 
 where he could more easily attend upon me. On the 
 sixteenth of December, I removed to the Doctor's, 
 where, among other things, I had the luxury of sitting 
 by a fire, and of receiving many attentions from his 
 kind and amiable lady, such as can be appreciated 
 only by those, who, having a family and a home, are 
 taken sick among strangers in a foreign land. Dr. 
 James W. Campbell is a native of Virginia. His father 
 was connected with Lewis and Clarke, the pioneers in 
 the exploration of the Rocky Mountains, and was an 
 agent of the United States in some negotiations with 
 the Indian tribes west of the Mississippi. This led his 
 son, the Doctor, to New Mexico, and thence to Chihua- 
 hua and Sonora. He married in the latter State, and 
 entered into the practice of medicine, for which he had 
 been educated. Every American who comes to the 
 place where the Doctor resides, is certain to find in 
 him a sincere friend. 
 
DETENTION AT URES. 439 
 
 Ures (pronounced Oo-ress) was originally a mission- 
 ary establishment, and among the earliest in the State. 
 Not many years before the expulsion of the Jesuits, 
 they commenced here the erection of one of the largest 
 churches in the country ; and when that event took 
 place, the walls had been raised about half their in- 
 tended height. The thirty years' neglect, however, 
 which it has suffered since that time, has reduced it to 
 a mass of crumbling ruins. Adjoining it are the re- 
 mains of a smaller edifice, which is now being rebuilt. 
 A prison, or house of correction, a plain adobe struc- 
 ture, is as yet the only public building in the place. 
 About a mile from the town an Alameda, or public 
 park, has lately been laid out and planted with trees ; 
 but so primitive is its appearance, that one would 
 hardly recognise it as any thing more than an ordinary 
 field and garden. 
 
 During my residence here, Governor Aguilar resign- 
 ed his office, and his successor, Don Francisco Cubillas, 
 was installed into his place. Like his predecessor, 
 Governor Cubillas is an accomplished gentleman. He 
 has spent many years in Europe and the United States, 
 has a highly cultivated mind, and speaks the English 
 language with fluency. He manifested much interest 
 in the objects of our commission, particularly in the 
 scientific investigations, which I told him we were mak- 
 ing. During my illness, he extended to me many at- 
 tentions, for which I shall ever hold him in kind remem- 
 brance. To get my party off, and support myself, 
 while at Ures, of course required considerable money. 
 This he kindly proffered to me to any amount, although 
 I could see no way of repaying him under many months. 
 
440 ILLNESS AND 
 
 i. 
 
 The Legislative Hall is a plain adobe building, dis- 
 tinguished from others only by a flag-staff. The As- 
 sembly consists of but eight members ; and one would 
 suppose that so small a body would be remarkable for 
 the harmony of its proceedings. Yet I was told that 
 a large portion of its last session was spent, in disputes 
 about the qualifications of three of its members, and 
 that it had adjourned without transacting any public 
 business. A newspaper called the Sonoriense, the only 
 one in the State of Sonora, is issued here weekly, and 
 is chiefly devoted to the publication of laws, the pro- 
 ceedings of the State Legislature and general Congress 
 of Mexico, and other matters of an official character. 
 
 The town is regularly laid out in squares, a large 
 church and accompanying plaza occupying the centre. 
 The church is a plain, substantial edifice, with a tower 
 and dome, corresponding in general appearance with 
 others throughout the country. The houses are well 
 built and in general spacious, better, in fact, than any 
 we had seen, except a few at La Magdalena. Although 
 but of one story, they are about eighteen feet in the 
 clear. As brick is used for cornices and other exterior 
 ornaments, and as many of the houses are plastered 
 and colored, the town has a pleasant appearance. Its 
 streets, too, unlike most Mexican towns, are quite clean. 
 
 Hard by runs the Sonora River, the bottom land of 
 which, extending for more than a mile on either side, 
 is exceedingly fertile. Its use, however, is almost 
 wholly confined to the production of corn, wheat, 
 beans, pumpkins, and chili. Vegetables, which one 
 would expect to form a large part of the subsistence 
 of the people, are scarcely cultivated here, and 
 
DETENTION AT URES. 
 
 441 
 
 during iny residence of three months I saw none. 
 Oranges, lemons, quinces, pomegranates, and peaches, 
 abound. There is, too, a solitary date-tree within the 
 
 '^~IcslK s " 
 
 Date Tree, Ures. 
 
 limits of the town ; but I could hear of no others near, 
 and presume this to be an exotic. The sugar cane 
 grows remarkably well in the bottom lands, and is cul- 
 tivated in sufficient quantities to supply a small sugar 
 mill. Nothing, however, is made but the common 
 pilonce, an article inferior to the most ordinary brown 
 sugar of commerce. Cotton of a superior quality, I 
 was told, is raised here, though not to any extent. 
 
442 ILLNESS AND 
 
 i. 
 
 The plain on which the town stands is intersected with 
 many arroyos, or dry water-courses, which, after heavy 
 rains, become filled, inundate the country, and endanger 
 the town. Several extensive haciendas are situated in 
 the vicinity ; among which are those of Santa Rita, El 
 Molino, Guadalupe, and Tapahui. 
 
 A theatrical company from Mazatlan was perform- 
 ing while I was a resident here ; but, either from want 
 of patronage or indolence in the actors, the represen- 
 tations took place only once or twice a week. Each 
 entertainment was publicly announced by a troop with 
 a band of music parading through the town. The 
 theatre was a court yard in the open air, and the stage 
 a rude frame work filled with earth ; the spectator 
 being at liberty to look before or behind the scenes, as 
 best suited his taste. Seats were not furnished, each 
 person bringing his own, or standing during the per- 
 formance. The prompter was ensconced in a sort of 
 well in the front part of the stage, his head covered with 
 a tin-plate screen, which strongly resembled a patent 
 Dutch oven. He read the entire play in an under 
 tone, and the actors repeated it after him. The whole 
 affair was tedious, and a poor apology for an evening's 
 entertainment. 
 
 The laborers of Ures and of other towns in the 
 central and lower parts of Sonora are the Yaqui Indians. 
 They fill the same place and perform the same duties 
 as the lower class of Irish do in the United States. I 
 was told that they are invariably honest, faithful, and 
 industrious, traits of character which cannot be said to 
 belong to the lower order of Mexicans. I saw these 
 men at work in a broiling sun, with no garment save 
 
DETENTION AT URES. 443 
 
 a bit of cloth around their loins, and a straw hat upon 
 their heads, making the adobes or sun-baked brick, 
 and laying them in the walls. Others were laboring 
 in the fields ; and, in fact, the hard work whatever it 
 was, seemed to be performed by these men. They 
 are also the fishermen and the famous pearl divers of 
 the Gulf of California. These Indians were in the 
 early history of the country extremely warlike ; but 
 on being converted to Christianity, their savage nature 
 was completely subdued, and they became the most 
 docile and tractable of people. In the civil wars of 
 the State, some thirty years since, they took part with 
 one of the factions ; and when this strife had passed 
 away, it was not easy to subdue again the dormant 
 propensities for war which had thus been aroused. 
 They are now very populous in the southern part of 
 Sonora. 
 
 The Yaquis were among the first to be converted 
 by the Jesuits ; who used them as it is said the Egyp- 
 tians did the Israelites, making them perform all the 
 manual labor of the missions. They became excellent 
 mechanics, and built the churches and missionary estab- 
 lishments of the country, as well as the presidios, ox 
 garrisons. In addition to the tithes, they were also 
 made to pay tribute, either in labor or the products of 
 the soil. When their old masters were banished the 
 country, " the name of Jesuit was converted into that 
 of cura, and slavery was by the same ingenious artifice 
 changed to servitude. Priests, who from bad charac- 
 ters were suffered to reside no where else, obtained 
 their living from a Yaqui congregation ; and it was as 
 common in Mexico to banish a friar to a Yaqui eccle- 
 
444 ILLNESS AND 
 
 siastical establishment, as any other culprit to the fron- 
 tier presidios." 
 
 Being desirous to obtain a portrait characteristic of 
 this large and once powerful tribe, I made my wish 
 known to Governor Cubillas, who sent a man to me for 
 the purpose. He had a mild expression of counte- 
 nance and was considered a good specimen. Mr. 
 Pratt obtained an excellent likeness of him*; though 
 the fellow became so alarmed at seeing himself trans- 
 ferred to canvas, that he would not return to have it 
 completed. On expressing my desire to possess a full 
 vocabulary of their language, I was told that Padre 
 Encinas, the learned and venerable priest attached to 
 the church here, was so familiar with it, as to be able 
 to write and preach in it. I accordingly called on him 
 with a friend ; when he readily complied with my re- 
 quest, and furnished the corresponding Yaqui for the 
 two hundred words in my vocabulary. 
 
 Another large tribe of Indians in this State is that 
 known as the Opate. They are found in the central 
 parts of the State, and are chiefly devoted to agricul- 
 ture. They live in villages, and are in general a quiet 
 and well disposed people. Between La Magdalena and 
 Ures we passed several villages of Opates, who in dress 
 and appearance were quite as respectable as their 
 Mexican compatriots. These people, however, are 
 most noted for their bravery, being the only ones who 
 have successfully contended with the savage Apaches. 
 On many occasions they have been called out 'under 
 their leader Tanori, who receives regular pay from the 
 government, and always holds himself in readiness 
 when he knows the common enemy is among them. 
 
DETENTION AT URES. 445 
 
 Ever since the conquest of the country, the Opate 
 tribe has manifested a frank and docile character, sym- 
 pathizing in all things with the whites. They early be- 
 came converts to Christianity, and have ever remained 
 faithful to their religion. Of their attachment to 
 law, order, and peace, they have given the most une- 
 quivocal proofs. j» 
 
 Three companies of infantry formed from them, were 
 stationed at the frontier towns of Bacuachi, Tubac, and 
 Babispe ; and there, it is said, for a series of years, 
 they performed many acts of extraordinary valor, one 
 of them having often been known to contend success- 
 fully against eight or ten Apaches. In the civil wars 
 of the State, they also took conspicuous part. Their 
 sense of propriety is manifested in always being well 
 clothed with a clean white shirt and pantaloons, while 
 their Yaqui brethren prefer going naked, or nearly so. 
 Besides soldiers, they are excellent couriers, and are 
 often employed to carry messages long distances on 
 foot, running the greater portion of the way. In twenty- 
 four hours, they have been known to run from forty to 
 fiftv leagues.* 
 
 While I was confined to my room, I endeavored to 
 collect such information as was within my reach relat- 
 ing to the Indian tribes of the State ; and as I wished to 
 obtain a portrait of an Opate, Governor Cubillas was so 
 kind as to send for Tanori, the head chief of the nation, 
 (to whom I have before alluded), who lived thirty 
 leagues distant. A few days after, the Chief promptly 
 reported himself at my quarters, accompanied by his 
 
 * Velasco. Noticias del Estado de Sonora. 
 
446 ILLNESS AND 
 
 wife He was indeed a fine specimen of a man, being 
 full six feet high and well proportioned, with a light 
 complexion for an Indian ; large piercing eyes, promi- 
 nent and high cheek-bones, and a most determined ex- 
 pression of countenance. He often smiled, when his face 
 wore an expression full of benignity. He was delight- 
 ed when L told him that his portrait would be sent to 
 Washington, where the President of the American 
 people lived, and there hung upon the walls of a great 
 room with those of other celebrated chiefs of the Indian 
 tribes within the borders of the United States. 
 
 Mr. Pratt, the artist of the Commission, was ready 
 when the Chief appeared, and at once proceeded to 
 transfer the faces and busts of himself and wife to can- 
 vas. Thev remained in town for a week, and were 
 promptly on the spot when required for their sittings. 
 Tanori wore a large serape of dark blue broadcloth ; 
 the opening in the centre for the head being surround- 
 ed by a broad band of green velvet, bound with heavy 
 gold lace. His garments beneath this were simply a 
 shirt and pantaloons. His wife, who always accompa- 
 nied him, was quite small, with a delicate complexion 
 for an Indian, though strongly marked with the cha- 
 racteristics of her race. Tanori was greatly pleased 
 with his wife's portrait, and expressed a strong desire 
 to possess it. I promised him that if it should ever be 
 published, I would send him a copy. From this chief 
 I also obtained a full vocabulary of his language. 
 
 The other tribes of Indians in Sonora, are the Mayos 
 who reside in the southern part of the State ; the Tara- 
 humaras or Taraumaras, who occupy the western por- 
 tion adjacent to the Sierra Madre ; the Yumas and 
 
DETENTION AT URES. 447 
 
 Cocopas of the Colorado ; the Papagos of the interior ; 
 the Pimos, and Coco-Maricopas, of the Gila ; the Ceres 
 of the Gulf of California ; and the Apaches. Of 
 each of them I shall speak hereafter, in their proper 
 places. 
 
 The exports from Sonora are chiefly wheat and 
 flour. Copper was formerly exported in considerable 
 quantities ; that is now no longer the case. There was 
 also an extensive trade in pearls, which were collected 
 by the Indians of the Gulf; but I could not learn that 
 much is now done in it. Silver and gold are among 
 the exports ; but even of these the amount is less than 
 in former times. 
 
 Scarcely a week passed during my stay at Ures, that 
 I did not hear of murders and robberies by small bands 
 of Apaches in the neighborhood. On one occasion, 
 sixteen valuable horses were stolen from a single ha- 
 cienda, and a boy was carried away captive. Another 
 time, several mules were taken from a rancho within a 
 mile of the town, and the owner killed. Yet not an 
 arm was raised in defence, nor were any steps taken to 
 hunt out the thieves and murderers. I cannot refrain 
 from relating here an incident that took place near one 
 of the frontier towns, which affords a good illustration 
 of Mexican pusillanimity. 
 
 A band of Apaches, venturing into the interior of 
 the State, stole a large number of horses and mules, 
 which they were driving off. No efforts had been made 
 to check them, until at length a party of some forty- 
 five men armed with muskets, united for the purpose. 
 One of their number was an American, who took a 
 prominent part in the expedition. They soon fell into 
 
448 ILLNESS AND 
 
 I: 
 
 the trail of the robbers ; and about midnight, on reach- 
 ing the top of a hill which overlooked a valley, they 
 discovered the enemy below them, lying asleep around 
 their camp fires ; while at a short distance, their herd 
 of stolen animals were grazing. A small party sent 
 down the hill to reconnoitre ascertained that the Indi- 
 ans were but twelve in number. It was then proposed 
 by the American, that he, with such others as would 
 venture with him, should approach as near as possible, 
 and each pick off his man ; which should be a signal 
 for the rest to rush forward and overwhelm them. The 
 plan was agreed to, but only two Mexicans and one 
 Opate boy, would venture to accompany the Ameri- 
 can. 
 
 The four crept quietly to within fifteen paces of the 
 Indian camp, and took their position behind some 
 bushes for concealment. Just as they were preparing 
 to fire, a tremendous shout was heard, with a confused 
 discharge of fire-arms from the party left on the hill. 
 The Indians sprang at once to their feet and ran some 
 paces back, leaving their bows and lances ; but finding 
 they were not pursued, they soon ran back and secured 
 them. The small party of four, who were thus placed 
 in an awkward predicament, endeavored to make good 
 their retreat, dodging behind rocks and bushes, and 
 occasionally discharging their guns at their pursuers, 
 who were armed only with bows, arrows, and lances. 
 On reaching the summit of the hill, their surprise was 
 great to find that the cowardly crew left there, had 
 abandoned their post and were in full retreat, driving 
 some of the stolen animals, which they had managed to 
 secure, before them. 
 
DETENTION AT URES. 449 
 
 After the Opate boy had been killed by the arrows 
 of his enraged pursuers, his three companions succeed- 
 ed in regaining their horses, and pushing on after the 
 main body of the party. The Indians, meanwhile, had 
 got before them, and, riding fearlessly up to the re- 
 treating Mexican horsemen, plunged their lances into 
 their backs. Not one attempted to defend himself, 
 or to discharge his gun. Quietly they submitted to 
 be transfixed by the enemy's lances, until seven were 
 killed. The American fearing all would be cut 
 off, told them they must adopt one of two alterna- 
 tives, as the only means of saving their lives ; namely, 
 either make a stand and defend themselves, or abandon 
 the recaptured animals. The latter course was pur- 
 sued. The animals were left ; and the Apaches, having 
 again secured their stolen property, retired. 
 
 This narrative exhibits the poltroonery of the Mexi- 
 cans in no stronger light than do incidents continually 
 taking place. I have been told by many Mexican gen- 
 tlemen and military officers, that ten Apaches will put 
 a hundred of the lower class of their countrymen 
 to flight. They become panic-stricken ; and if forced 
 to discharge their guns, they do so at random, turning 
 their faces and generally closing their eyes. In 
 Chihuahua I heard of several stratagems used by 
 the Mexicans, by which they had overpowered their 
 adversaries ; but in open fights, which are very rare, 
 the Apaches are generally the victors. We often hear 
 of the effect of fear upon a single mule, which will 
 stampede a large herd, without their knowing the cause 
 of the alarm. The Mexicans seem to be possessed of 
 similar fears, which produce similar results. 
 vol. i. — 29 
 
450 ILLNESS AND 
 
 On the 15th of December, I had so far recovered 
 from my illness as to sit up the greater part of the day, 
 and to walk out without assistance, although still 
 very weak. I sometimes felt my strength failing me 
 entirely, and my limbs becoming almost destitute 
 of sensation. On this day, I resumed my diary, 
 which had been suddenly broken off on the 5th of Oc- 
 tober. 
 
 The gentlemen of the Commission who had accom- 
 panied me to this place took leave of me to-day, to re- 
 trace their steps to Santa Cruz, and thence proceed to 
 rejoin the surveying parties on the Gila. The party con- 
 sisted of Dr. Webb, Mr. Geo. Thurber, Mr. H. C. 
 Pratt, Mr. J. J. Pratt, and their attendants. They 
 were kindly provided with an escort, as I have already 
 mentioned, by Governor Cubillas. Not having any 
 troops at his disposal, he gave me an order on the Al- 
 calde of each town through which Dr. Webb and his 
 party should pass, who were required to furnish him 
 with eight mounted and armed men to the next town, 
 and so on, to the place of his destination. 
 
 December IQth. News was brought in to-day that a 
 large band of Apaches were ravaging the country to 
 the west ; and that after attacking and robbing several 
 haciendas, they had proceeded southward towards 
 Hermosillo. 
 
 December 19th. The town was thrown into a state 
 of alarm, by the news of a fight between a body of 
 Mexicans and the Apaches before referred to, in which 
 the former were completely cut to pieces. It seems 
 that an effort had been made to arouse the inhabitants of 
 Hermosillo to their danger, and induce them to send 
 
 
DETENTION AT URES. 451 
 
 out a force to expel the invaders. But strange as it 
 may appear, this town, with a population of thirteen or 
 fourteen thousand souls, could muster only forty hired 
 men to send against a party of about one hundred In- 
 dians, who were ravaging the richest portion of the 
 State, murdering its inhabitants, destroying their crops, 
 and robbing the haciendas and ranchos of their most 
 valuable stock. These men were armed and mounted, 
 and sent in pursuit under the command of an officer. 
 They came up with the enemy about five leagues from 
 Ures ; but what was the result ? The Indians imme- 
 diately made a desperate charge upon the Mexicans, 
 putting the whole body to flight, and killing about 
 thirty of their number. The officer and a few others, 
 who succeeded, after being hotly pursued, in making 
 their escape to Ures, reported themselves to be all 
 that survived ; but a few stragglers subsequently turn- 
 ed up. The officer's own excuse was, that his men all 
 fled ; and it being useless for him to attempt to cope 
 with the enemy single handed, he was obliged to run 
 with the rest to save his life. I saw a gentleman a 
 few days after, who visited the spot where the fight 
 took place. The Mexicans were all lanced in the hack, 
 and their muskets, which were found lying by their 
 sides, had not teen discharged. The Apaches care lit- 
 tle for fire-arms themselves : they can neither keep them 
 in order nor obtain ammunition ; and as long as they 
 have nothing but Mexicans to contend with, their 
 bows, arrows, and lances, are quite sufficient. 
 
 December 20th. A band of fifty Indians of the Coco- 
 Mar icopa tribe, from the river Gila, arrived in town 
 this morning. The object of their visit was to com- 
 
452 ILLNESS AND 
 
 plain to the Governor of the attacks made on them by 
 the Yumas of the Colorado and the Apaches, and to 
 beg that they might be furnished with fire-arms to de- 
 fend themselves against the common enemy. These 
 Indians had a totally different appearance from any I 
 had seen. They were entirely destitute of clothing 
 save a breech-cloth of coarse stuff' of their own manu- 
 facture. They wore no covering on their heads, and 
 were without any protection to their feet. Their hair 
 seemed never to have been cut, but was clubbed up in 
 a great bundle, and hung about half-way down their 
 backs. In front, it was cut off straight across the 
 eye-brows, while the earlocks were suffered to fall 
 down by the side of their faces. On being informed 
 by Governor Cubillas, that there was one among them 
 who spoke Spanish well, and acted as the iuterpreter 
 of the band, I requested that he would do me the favor 
 to send the man to me. He readily complied with my 
 request, and in the after part of the day the Indian, 
 with several of his naked companions, presented him- 
 self at my quarters. I kept them a couple of hours, 
 taking down a vocabulary of their language ; at the 
 end of which time, they exhibited much drowsiness, 
 and said they were hungry. I sent out for some bread, 
 but asked them to wait until I got through before eat- 
 ing it. They could not be restrained, however ; and 
 finding it no easy matter to take down their words 
 while they were munching their food, I was obliged to 
 give up the task, with a request that they would call 
 on me again in the morning. These men readily an- 
 swered all my questions about the Gila ; and I learned 
 from them that, a short time before, a party of Ameri- 
 
DETENTION AT URES. 453 
 
 cans had passed through their villages, which, from 
 their account, I believed to be the engineers of the 
 Boundary Commission. One of them had several notes 
 from Americans who had passed through their country, 
 certifying to their friendly disposition, and requestiug 
 kind treatment for them in return. 
 
 December 21st My Indian friends were at my quar- 
 ters by eight o'clock, accompanied by several of their 
 companions, three of whom, claimed to be "capitans," 
 or chiefs. Whether they were or not, I cannot say, 
 but believe they styled themselves such, in order that 
 they might with more propriety claim some presents 
 from me, and particularly some recommendations. 
 These certificates they prize very highly, on account of 
 the favors they procure from emigrating parties pass- 
 ing through their country. I gave testimonials to the 
 three who called themselves chiefs, stating that they 
 were friends of the Americans, and requesting my coun- 
 trymen to treat them kindly and deal fairly with them. 
 I attached to each note a large red seal and a piece 
 of red ribbon, which decorations pleased them much. 
 These acquisitions were carefully enveloped in several 
 wrappers, and then put into a deer-skin pouch, which 
 was fastened around their waists. Having completed 
 my vocabulary, I presented them all with some bread, 
 and also several yards of heavy cotton cloth, which they 
 expressed a desire to have above every thing else. 
 They gave me their names as, She-pan-wa-ma-ki, JSum- 
 su-il-lya, and Ghe-ma-dul-ka-keo. 
 
 The pleasing news arrived by courier that Tanori, 
 the Opate chief, who went in pursuit of the Apaches 
 before mentioned, had given them battle this morning 
 
454 ILLNESS AND 
 
 and completely routed them, killing many of their num- 
 ber and recapturing the animals which they were driv- 
 ing off. 
 
 December 23d This morning, when walking near the 
 town, I perceived a cloud of dust on the plain, which I 
 soon discovered to proceed from an immense drove of 
 animals approaching. As they drew nearer, I saw that 
 they were escorted by a body of armed men on horse- 
 back and on foot, who seemed to be in high glee, and 
 who were saluted and cheered as they passed by the 
 crowds who met them. They proved to be the horses 
 and mules recaptured by Tanori from the Apaches, 
 which were now being brought to Ures, to be reclaimed 
 by their respective owners. I was subsequently in- 
 formed by the Governor, that there were eight hun- 
 dred and sixty animals altogether, and that among them 
 were some hundreds of the finest stock in the State. 
 They were placed in the plaza, where the owners on 
 identifying them, and paying three dollars each, were 
 permitted to take their property. This charge was to 
 defray the expense of driving them in, and for sub- 
 sisting them. 
 
 An incident connected with the expedition of Ta- 
 nori, deserves to be mentioned here. At the first fire 
 of his men six Apaches were killed, and one was left 
 by his companions mortally wounded. This man sat 
 alone on the plain near a tall petahaya, the blood trick- 
 ling from his wound and gasping for breath ; but at the 
 same time, clenching in his death-grasp his full drawn 
 bow. His pursuers were thus kept at bay, knowing 
 the certainty with which an Apache warrior marks his 
 victim. The Opates were all armed with muskets or 
 
DETENTION AT URES. 455 
 
 escopettes ; and they discharged no less than ten shots 
 at the dying Indian, not one of which took effect. At 
 length an Opate lad of sixteen boldly advanced with 
 his gun to within a short distance of the wounded man. 
 The quick eye of the Apache was fixed on his antago- 
 nist as he approached him. The young Opate levelled 
 his gun and quickly pulled the trigger. The Apache 
 at the same instant let fly the never-failing and deadly 
 arrow, which, skimming over the plain, buried itself 
 deeply in the neck of the warrior boy, and laid him 
 dead on the spot. The ball of the Opate was equally 
 sure. Both were slain. 
 
 December 24zth. Dr. Vassbinder, a physician from 
 Canada, attached to the Mexican army, arrived to-day 
 from Arispe, bringing the painful news that General 
 Garcia Conde, the Mexican Commissioner, had died at 
 that place on the 19th instant. I learned from him that 
 the General, whom I left at Santa Cruz on the 29th of 
 September, was taken ill a few days after, and lay for 
 somet ime at the point of death. On getting somewhat 
 better, he was with much difficulty carried to Arispe, 
 where he could have the benefit of a physician, besides 
 having more comforts than in such a filthy, miserable, 
 and unhealthy place as Santa Cruz. But the journey 
 was too much for him : he suffered a relapse which baf- 
 fled his attendant's skill, and died on the 19th instant. 
 It was a singular coincidence that the General, who had 
 left Arispe when quite young, had not visited it again 
 until he was taken there to die ; and that this event 
 should occur in the very house in which he drew his 
 first breath. General Conde was but 47 years of age. 
 He was an accomplished engineer, and a most amiable 
 
456 ILLNESS AND 
 
 and estimable gentleman. Our intercourse had been 
 of the most friendly and agreeable character ; and he 
 had ever shown himself ready to aid the American 
 Commission, while we were within the jurisdiction of 
 Mexico, in any way that lay in his power. He had 
 filled many important positions under his government, 
 among which I may mention those of Secretary of War 
 and the Navy, Director of the Military College, and Dep- 
 uty from the State of Sonora to the Mexican Congress. 
 
 I received a letter to-day from Dr. Webb, announc- 
 ing the safe arrival of his party at Magdalena. He gave 
 me an account of an American named English, whom 
 he had found at the village of Rayon, where he was 
 kept in bondage by a Mexican. This man, who pro- 
 fessed to be of a respectable family, had found his way 
 into this country during the war, and had been taken 
 into custody by the man he was still with. He stated 
 that he was not permitted to communicate with his 
 friends, and had no means of escaping. I made the 
 facts known at once to Governor Cubillas, and request- 
 ed him to investigate the matter, which he assured me 
 he would do immediately. 
 
 December 25th. General Flores, Commander of the 
 military forces in Sonora, Colonel Garcia, a gentleman 
 whom I had before seen in Arispe, and Captain Morfi, 
 arrived from Arispe and called on me in the evening. 
 From them I learned additional particulars of General 
 Conde's illness and death. 
 
 December 26th. Time was now hanging heavily on 
 my hands. I felt extremely anxious to get off, but was 
 still unable to sit upon a horse. The usual mode of 
 travelling through Sonora is on horseback, while pack- 
 
DETENTION AT URES. 457 
 
 mules do the transportation of goods. There are a few 
 wheeled vehicles here, and among them some very 
 fine private carriages, which are used between this and 
 Hermosillo, where the road is good ; but they cannot 
 be employed except with difficulty in traversing other 
 parts of the country, owing to continuous mountain 
 chains which intersect the State on the north, east and 
 south. Governor Cubillas had interested himself much 
 for me, and promised to apprise me of the first oppor- 
 tunity that offered to go to G-uaytaas, or even to Her- 
 mosillo. To-day he called with the pleasing news that 
 in three days I should have a conveyance. 
 
 It did not take me long to prepare for my journey ; 
 for when I left my party on the San Pedro in Septem- 
 ber I expected to be back in eight or ten days, and 
 consequently made but small provision for my trip. My 
 wardrobe therefore was very meagre. A portable cot, 
 bedding, and a single camp stool, with my fire-arms, 
 constituted all my other effects. I now found it ne- 
 cessary, to procure some cooking utensils, and a few 
 articles for a camp chest, as there are no hotels in the 
 country, or any public places of entertainment. Besides 
 these, I had to get an animal for my servant to ride, 
 and two pack-mules, for transporting the luggage, and 
 an arriero to attend to them. 
 
458 URES TO 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 URES TO GUAYMAS. 
 
 Leave Ures — Rich valley — Tapahui — Don Manuel Gandera — His large es- 
 tates — Successful farming — Statistics of his haciendas — Silver mine — 
 Reach Hermosillo — Governor Aguilar — The Oeris Indians — Ohtain 
 their language — Account of the tribe — Mode of poisoning their wea- 
 pons — Description of Hermosillo — The Sonora River — Productions of 
 the valley — Business relations — Sketch of the town — Departure — Meet 
 French emigrants — Description of the country — Its barrenness — 
 Business-like mode of milking cows — La Oieneguita — Buena Noche — 
 Reach Guaymas — Mr. Robinson, the U. S. Consul — Description of Guay- 
 mas and its Oampo Santo — Its harbor — Commerce — Intense heat — 
 Departure. 
 
 December 2Wi. The carriage which my excellent 
 friend Governor Cubillas had -secured for me, was at 
 my door in good season this morning. It was a small 
 Scotch built vehicle, of an antiquated form, with two 
 wheels, and very comfortable. Taking leave, there- 
 fore, of my kind and attentive physician, Dr. Camp- 
 bell, and his amiable wife and family, to all of whom I 
 shall ever feel grateful, I was helped into my chaise 
 and bade adieu to Ures, where I had been confined 
 eighty days. I still felt very weak ; but my appetite 
 was good, and I hoped the exercise of riding would 
 be beneficial. 
 
GUAYMAS. 459 
 
 The road from Ures is excellent for several miles, 
 extending along the bottom land of the Sonora River, 
 which is one continuous cornfield, to the village of 
 Guadalupe, six miles distant ; after that, still keeping 
 in or near the valley, and often crossing the stream, 
 the road becomes more hilly, and in many places there 
 are bad gulleys. It is then hard and smooth to Tapa- 
 hui, twenty-seven miles from Ures. 
 
 I reached this place, the residence of Don Manuel 
 Gandera, the former governor of Sonora, at 4 p. m. 
 Having a letter of introduction from Governor Cu- 
 billas, I drove at once to his hacienda. I was kindly 
 received by Mr. Rohnstadt, a German, the head mana- 
 ger of the extensive estate of Don Manuel, who 
 was absent, having a few days before gone to Guay- 
 mas. 
 
 The whole village of Tapahui belongs to Senor 
 Gandera, who is reputed to be the richest man in the 
 State. He cultivates with great success many miles of 
 the luxuriant bottom lands of the Sonora River, which 
 runs directly through his estates, and from which they 
 are irrigated. The houses are of adobe, well built and 
 spacious. They stand chiefly around or immediately 
 adjacent to a large plaza, and are exclusively occupied 
 by the overseers and employees of the owner. 
 
 Mr. Rohnstadt accompanied me over the place, 
 and cheerfully answered all my inquiries. And on 
 my expressing a desire to know the statistics of the 
 estate, which showed the most successful farming I had 
 yet seen in Mexico, he invited me into his office. 
 Requesting me to be seated, he took down the farm 
 book, and turned to the result or balance of the pre- 
 
460 URES TO 
 
 vious year, from, which he permitted me to make the 
 following extract : 
 
 8000 fanegas (about 21000 bushels) of wheat, 
 2000 " ( " 5250 " ) of corn, 
 500 " ( " 1050 " ) of beans [frijoles], 
 250 " ( " 656 " ) of barley, 
 
 100 " ( " 262 " ) of pease, 
 
 70 wagon loads of sugar cane, 
 From 60 to 80 loads of soap, worth $30, each. 
 
 In addition to the above there was raised a variety 
 of vegetables, which were furnished to his laborers, 
 and never sent to market. Such were the agricultu- 
 ral products of the estate. 
 
 Don Manuel, besides being an agriculturist, is one of 
 the most extensive raisers of stock in the country, as 
 the following list of animals now on his farms will show : 
 
 16,000 sheep, 
 700 mules, 
 108 stud horses, 
 1620 breeding mares, 
 348 cow calves, 
 355 bull calves, 
 
 62 young mules, "j 
 269 mare colts, y product of last six months. 
 165 stud colts, ) 
 
 The wool gathered from the sheep is manufactured 
 into serapes, or blankets. Of these there were made 
 by hand during the year nearly fifteen hundred, vary- 
 
GUAYMAS. 461 
 
 ing in value from four to eighty dollars each. Mr. 
 Rohnstadt showed me piles and bales of these articles 
 ready for market, many of them of brilliant colors 
 and fine texture. The serape is the principal garment 
 of the Mexicans. It serves them as a covering at 
 night, and is alike worn to protect them from the cold 
 and from the rain. A considerable demand therefore 
 exists for the inferior qualities among the hands on the 
 estate. 
 
 One would suppose that the cultivation of such 
 large farms, and the raising of so many horses, mules, 
 and cattle, would be sufficient for one man to attend to 
 successfully ; but Don Manuel does not stop here. He 
 is the owner and successful operator of a large cotton 
 mill near Tapahui, which I had not time to visit, and 
 of a silver mine. 
 
 The books of this gentleman were admirably kept, 
 exhibiting a correctness of system which would be 
 creditable in the counting-room of one of our New- 
 York merchants. Mr. Rohnstadt kindly permitted me 
 to make the following abstract of the list of employees 
 on his establishment. 
 
 414 laborers, 
 52 muleteers, 
 19 mechanics, 
 23 herdsmen, 
 16 shepherds. 
 
 This list embraces those only who were employed 
 on the farms. 
 
 He possesses also a silver mine, which had been 
 
462 URES TO 
 
 worked for only five months. In it are employed 
 eighty-five men, who receive from six to twelve dollars 
 a month and their subsistence. The last monthly pay- 
 ment for wages and rations amounted to thirteen hun- 
 dred and fifty-nine dollars. ($1,359.) The produce 
 of this mine the first five months after it was opened, 
 amounted to fifteen thousand nine hundred and fifty- 
 six dollars. ($15,946.) 
 
 The comforts and conveniences about the house, I 
 cannot say were in keeping with the magnificent scale 
 of the establishment. But this is excusable in a place 
 situated so far in the interior, when even on the coast 
 at the port of Guaymas, the luxuries which wealth 
 usually commands are not to be obtained. The enjoy- 
 ment of these must be left for the next generation. 
 
 December 30th. Left Tapahui after breakfast. The 
 natural road continued down the valley, hard and 
 smooth, and was quite equal to a well made turnpike. 
 Passed several haciendas and ranchos, with extensive 
 and highly cultivated grounds. The chief products 
 seemed to be wheat, with a limited proportion of corn 
 (maize) and beans. Little attention seemed to be paid 
 to the cultivation of other cereals, fruit, or vegetables. 
 The heat was very oppressive, there being no top to 
 the chaise ; but as the road continued good, I hurried 
 on, and at 4 o'clock reached Hermosillo, distant twen- 
 ty-seven miles. I drove at once to Senor Majocci's, an 
 Italian, to whom I had a note from Mr. Thurber. Mr. 
 M. gave me an excellent room in his house, to which 
 I had my baggage transferred and my cot set up, and 
 furnished me with other conveniences to render me as 
 comfortable as possible. 
 
. GUAYMAS. 463 
 
 December Zlst Mr. John P. Brodie, a Scotch gen- 
 tleman, called on me early this morning. Mr. Brodie 
 has been in Mexico thirty years, during which time he 
 has resided chiefly in Sonora. He is a gentleman of 
 intelligence, of thorough business habits, and is much 
 respected by the Mexicans, as well as by all who come 
 in contact with him. Mr. B. like many foreigners 
 who come here, married a Mexican lady ; and by her he 
 has had nine children, most of whom are living. Don 
 Jose Aguilar, who was Governor of the State, and re- 
 sided in Ures'whenI arrived there, also called this 
 morning. He informed me that on the Monday follow- 
 ing, he should set out for Guaymas, and politely offered 
 me a seat in his carriage. This was as pleasing as it 
 was unexpected ; for the conveyance I had had was 
 only to this place, and I had to take my chance of get- 
 ting to Guaymas the best way I could. I should else 
 probably not have got off under a week or ten days, 
 nor would the means offered have been so well suited 
 to my feeble condition. I had now only to obtain 
 pack mules to carry my baggage, and arrieros to take 
 charge of them. But to relieve me of all trouble, 
 Senior Aguilar kindly offered to make arrangements for 
 these also. 
 
 Desiring to employ my time to some advantage 
 during my stay here, I requested the aid of Governor 
 Aguilar in procuring an Indian of the Certs tribe from 
 whom I could obtain a vocabulary of his language. 
 This he had promised me to do when I met him at 
 Ures ; and at once he despatched a messenger to a 
 pueblo or village of these Indians near Hermosillo. 
 The person sent for made his appearance in a few 
 
464 URES TO 
 
 t. 
 
 hours, accompanied by several young Mexican gentle- 
 men of education, who remained during the interview, 
 manifesting much interest in my undertaking, and as- 
 sisting me in obtaining the words correctly. The native 
 was a good looking man, about thirty years of age. 
 His complexion was fair, and resembled that of an 
 Asiatic rather than an American Indian. His cheek- 
 bones were high, and his head round and well formed, 
 though the anterior portion was somewhat angular and 
 prominent. His hair was short, straight, and black. He 
 was a full-blooded Ceris, and came originally from the 
 island of Tiburon. In about three hours I completed 
 the vocabulary quite satisfactorily to myself, and some- 
 what to the surprise of my Mexican friends when they 
 heard the Indian so readily recognise each word as I 
 read it off in his native tongue, and then give me the 
 Spanish equivalent. I found it an extremely harsh 
 language, very difficult to express with our letters, and 
 totally different from any aboriginal tongue I had heard 
 spoken. 
 
 The Ceris tribe of Indians, with the exception of 
 those which are christianized and reside in the village 
 near Hermosillo, occupy the island of Tiburon in the 
 Gulf of California, north of Guaymas. Although be- 
 lieved not to number over one hundred warriors, they 
 have long been the dread of the Mexicans between 
 Guaymas and Hermosillo, as well as the country to the 
 north, on account of their continual depredations and 
 murders. Their practice is to lie in wait near the tra- 
 velled roads, and there surprise small and unprotected 
 parties. Their place of abode being on an island 
 or the shores adjacent, and their subsistence being 
 
GUAYMAS. 465 
 
 chiefly gained by fishing, they have no desire to steal 
 animals, which would be of no use to them ; nor do they 
 take any prisoners. To murder and plunder small par- 
 ties of Mexicans, seems to be their only aim, and every 
 arrow or lance thrown by the Ceris that pierces the 
 skin, causes death, as all are poisoned.* Many expe- 
 ditions, fitted out at a great expense, have been sent 
 against them ; but, though commanded by competent 
 officers, all have failed. The number being so small, 
 they manage when pursued to conceal themselves where 
 they cannot be found. The island of Tiburon, as well 
 as the main land adjacent, is exceedingly barren and 
 destitute of water ; hence parties have suffered greatly 
 in the campaigns against them, without accomplishing 
 any thing. I was told that the government had al- 
 ready expended more than a thousand dollars for every 
 male of the tribe. The last serious attack of these peo- 
 ple was made upon a gentleman travelling to Guaymas 
 in his carriage with his family and attendants, embrac- 
 ing sixteen persons. They were surprised in an unfre- 
 quented place and every soul put to death. 
 
 * I was told that the Ceris tipped their arrows with poison ; but 
 how it was effected I could never learn. Lieutenant Hardy, who made 
 a voyage up the Gulf in 1826, visited Tiburon, and had some intercourse 
 with this people, thus describes; the process : " They first kill a cow, and' 
 take from it its liver ; they then collect rattle-snakes, scorpions, eenti- 
 pedes, and tarantulas, which they confine in a hole with the liver.. The 
 next process is, to beat them with sticks, in order to enrage them ;: and 
 being thus infuriated, they fasten their fangs and exhaust their venom 
 upon each other, and upon the liver. When the whole mass is in a state 
 i)f corruption, the women take the arrows and pass their points through 
 it ; they are then allowed to dry in the shade." — Travels in Mexico.. 
 London, 1829. p. 298. 
 vol, i. — 30 
 
466 URES TO 
 
 My attentive friends here, particularly Don Fran- 
 cisco Velasco, to whom. I feel under great obligations, 
 were quite desirous to know my opinion respecting 
 the Ceris tribe and their language ; but it was impos- 
 sible for me, without a close philological comparison 
 with other Indian languages, to arrive at any correct 
 conclusion as to whether this people are allied or not 
 to other aboriginal tribes. This curiosity arose from a 
 .notion, which I found to prevail in many parts of So- 
 nora, that the Ceris were of Asiatic origin, in proof of 
 which, some statements were made too improbable to 
 repeat. This idea seems to have originated from the 
 resemblance between their name and that given by the 
 ancients to the Chinese. 
 
 Hermosillo is the modern name for the old presidio 
 of Pitic, which belonged to the company of Horcasi- 
 tas. It is thirty leagues distant from the nearest point 
 of the shores of the Californian gulf, and thirty-six 
 leagues from the port of Guaymas, which lies nearly 
 south. It is by far the largest and finest city in the 
 State. In 1840, its population was 13,665, including 
 about 2000 Yaqui Indians, who are the laborers of the 
 town and dependent upon it. It was believed to con- 
 tain 4000 more in 1845, when the essay was written 
 from which I have obtained these facts.* It has a large 
 trade with Guaymas ; from there it receives all its 
 goods, which are distributed from Hermosillo through- 
 out the State ; and in return, the products of the State 
 are chiefly concentrated here for transportation to that 
 
 * Noticias estadisticas del Estado de Sonora, par Jos6 Francisco 
 Velasco. Mexico, 1850. 
 
GUAYMAS. 467 
 
 place. The climate is dry and exceedingly hot, the 
 thermometer ranging during the day from 95 to 98° 
 Fahrenheit, and often exceeding 100°. Notwithstand- 
 ing this intense heat, the place is considered healthy, 
 it being free from the epidemics which too often 
 accompany such high temperatures. This may, in some 
 respect, be owing to a westerly breeze, which springs 
 up in the evening, as at San Francisco and other places 
 on the Californian coast, and brings with it the cool air 
 from the ocean. This sudden change of temperature 
 doubtless arises from the intense heat on the desert 
 during the day, when the air in a rarified state passes 
 upwards into the higher regions. As the sun descends, 
 the air rushes in from the ocean to fill up the vacuum. 
 This will account for the prevalence of the south-west- 
 erly winds at certain seasons throughout the country 
 between the Gila and the Californian gulf, and the mois- 
 ture they bring with them. The winter is moderate and 
 the temperature variable, sometimes reaching 90 de- 
 grees. The weather to-day, 31st December, would be 
 called hot in New- York ; and I noticed that even the 
 inhabitants sought the shady side of the street. 
 
 The town lies in a valley almost ten miles in 
 length by four in width. It is closely hemmed in on 
 the east by a mountain or rugged pile of rocks com- 
 posed of crystallized carbonate of lime, of a beautiful 
 texture, in which white and cream color predominate, 
 relieved by dark and deep indentations. It is 
 called La Sierra de la Campana, or the Bell Moun- 
 tain, from the fact that the sonorous material of 
 which it is composed emits a sound when struck. Se- 
 veral small ranges of mountains, known as the Colorado 
 
468 URES TO 
 
 and Chanati sierras, encompass the valley, through 
 which flows the Sonora River, furnishing sufficient 
 water to irrigate the lands adjacent. This river, which 
 rises near Cocospera, has two great branches; the 
 eastern or Ures branch generally bears the name of 
 Sonora River. The western branch has several appel- 
 lations, but it is usually called the San Miguel. They 
 unite near Hermosillo, and, after flowing half way to 
 the gulf, lose themselves in a cienega, or swamp. Along 
 the margin of the city runs a large acequia, which is 
 intersected by others in various parts, furnishing an 
 abundant supply of water, and receiving in return an 
 immense amount of dirt and offal. It is surprising to a 
 stranger to behold the diverse uses to which these 
 acequias are applied. They are in one place a public 
 bathing tub ; at another half a dozen women may be 
 seen washing ; a little further on an animal is being 
 butchered ; and at the next house the people are 
 taking up water for cooking. 
 
 Taken as a whole, Hermosillo is the best built 
 town I had seen in Sonora. Some of the private dwell- 
 ings are large and substantial, with pleasant and tasty 
 exteriors, and handsomely furnished. No houses show- 
 ing the bare mud walls are seen in the principal 
 streets, as is usually the case in El Paso del Norte, but 
 all are colored, and often ornamented with columns 
 and pilasters in good taste. The court-yards are filled 
 with orange trees and flowering shrubs. The Alame- 
 da, or public walk, which extends along the margin of 
 the town, is not yet remarkable for its beauty ; time, 
 however, is only wanted to render it a place of great 
 attraction. It is well filled with trees, among which 
 
GUAYMAS. 469 
 
 is the beautiful palm. This park possesses an histori- 
 cal interest, having been the scene of a bloody action 
 during the civil war between Urrea and Gandera. 
 
 The valley produces annually about 25,000 fanegas 
 (65,600 bushels) of wheat; 10,000 fanegas (26,250 
 bushels) of maize, and about 5000 fanegas of other 
 cereals. Vegetables are not cultivated to any con- 
 siderable extent ; onions, sweet potatoes, chili, and 
 pumpkins constituting the entire supply. It is true 
 there may be some others cultivated, but they are not 
 common. Cacahuates (pea-nuts) are also raised here. 
 Of fruits there is a great abundance, including grapes, 
 melons, figs, oranges, limes, lemons, citron, peaches, 
 and pomegranates. The figs are very fine; but the 
 people do not know how to preserve them. The 
 guava and plantain have lately been introduced, and 
 are found to succeed. But the vine is most exten- 
 sively cultivated; not less than 1500 barrels of brandy, 
 of 125 cuartillos each, are annually made. Of the 
 quantity of wine made I have no knowledge ; but that 
 it is superior to that of the Rio Grande there is no 
 question. Cotton was formerly cultivated, and found 
 to be of an excellent quality ; but the plants became 
 diseased, and it is not now raised to any extent. The 
 sugar cane does not flourish here ; nevertheless, the 
 Ceris Indians of the Pueblo cultivate enough to sup- 
 ply themselves with panoche (sugar) ; and it has lately 
 been tried near the coast with so much better success 
 that it is believed it may yet be produced in a suffi- 
 cient quantity to supply the State, if not for exporta- 
 tion. There is an extraordinary fertility in the bottom- 
 lands of Sonora ; though I do not know that they sur- 
 
470 URES TO 
 
 i. 
 
 pass in this respect similar lands in California, the pro- 
 ducts of which astonish the agricultural world. It is 
 stated by Velasco, in his statistical account of Sonora, 
 before alluded to, that the product of wheat at the 
 hacienda of the Senores Astiaseranes of Horcasitas is 
 from two hundred and fifty to three hundred to one ; 
 and that the haciendas at Tapahui, of which I have 
 before given the details, are equally productive. 
 
 Hermosillo is a place of extensive business rela- 
 tions with all parts of the State, and has some large 
 wholesale establishments for the sale of dry goods. 
 There are scarcely any American goods sold here, 
 though admitted to be of a superior quality. Yet I 
 saw in the warehouses here, as well as in Ures, various 
 cotton goods of British manufacture, bearing the stamp 
 of the Blackstone and Lowell mills. French manufac- 
 tures, too, are common. In fact, the entire market of 
 Sonora seems to be supplied by England and France. 
 
 Some little is done here in the mechanic arts, more, 
 indeed, than in any place we had yet visited. The 
 working of leather is one of the most important 
 branches of manufacture in the country. It is made 
 up into saddle covers, leggins, and other articles, 
 which are figured, inlaid,, and embroidered with much 
 taste and skill. A fine saddle cover, consisting of a 
 piece of leather covering the entire saddle, and hang- 
 ing down nearly to the stirrups, often costs a hun- 
 dred dollars. 
 
 The old mission church still remains in good pre- 
 servation, but its adornments are without much beauty 
 or interest. A new one, at the opposite end of the 
 town, that of Nuestra Sefiora del Carmen, is quite neat 
 
GUAYMAS. 471 
 
 and beautiful, both in its exterior and in its internal 
 decorations. 
 
 January 1st, 1852. All the shops were open to- 
 day, the same as on other days of the week. Several 
 of the young gentlemen with whom I had become 
 acquainted called on me this morning; and hearing 
 me express a desire to take a sketch of the town, one 
 of them procured a carriage and took me to the 
 nearest elevation. I went to several parts of the town, 
 but could not obtain a good view of the place and the 
 picturesque scenery around it at the same time. I 
 finally selected a spot facing the Sierra de la Campana, 
 which gave a tolerable view of the town as a whole, 
 and the rugged mountain at its side. The Alameda 
 extends for a good distance along the front of the 
 town, concealing, to a great extent, its finest houses. 
 It is impossible to represent in one view any of those 
 Mexican towns built upon plains, as they usually are. 
 The streets being narrow, and compactly built, and 
 the houses generally of one story, there is presented 
 to the eye, when seen from an elevation, an unbroken 
 mass of flat roofs, with few picturesque objects to 
 break the monotony. Every town, it is true, has its 
 church, which is crowned by towers and a dome. 
 These I have always endeavored to introduce in my 
 sketches. 
 
 In the evening I dined with my obliging friend 
 Mr. Brodie, who cashed my draft on the government, 
 thus enabling me to repay Governor Cubillas for his 
 advances. He also procured for me both Mexican 
 and American gold ; so that I should not be troubled 
 as to money in whatever territory I should find myself. 
 
472 URES TO 
 
 January 2d. Left Hermosillo at two, p. m., with 
 Senor Don Jos6 de Aguilar and his brother, in a com- 
 fortable covered carriage, affording a good protection 
 from the heat of the sun, which was very great. Pack 
 mules and arrieros, with our baggage, and extra mules 
 for the carriage, accompanied us. Soon after leaving, 
 we met a party of one hundred and fifty Frenchmen, 
 who were emigrating from California, and destined, as 
 I afterwards learned, for Cocospera, with the design 
 of establishing a colony there, as well as of working 
 some mines. They were a rather hard-looking and 
 determined set of men, with long beards and sunburnt 
 faces. Each one carried a musket or rifle, besides 
 which many had pistols.* 
 
 The country, after leaving the immediate vicinity 
 of the river, is miserably poor. The road, however, is 
 excellent ; and though it has been travelled for two 
 centuries without a day's labor being expended on it, 
 it is still smooth, level, and hard, the soil being a fine 
 gravel. No continuous range of mountains intervenes 
 between here and the coast. Detached and short 
 ranges of moderate elevation rise here and there, all 
 of which are avoided. It may with more propriety 
 be termed a desert plain than a mountainous region. No 
 streams exist in the thirty-six or thirty-seven leagues 
 between Hermosillo and Guaymas, and the only water to 
 be found is procured from wells ; hence there is no 
 village or settlement on the route, and but few 
 
 * This is the same party which subsequently had a difficulty with the 
 government, set the laws at defiance, and closed by taking possession for 
 a while of Hermosillo. Their leader afterwards committed suicide. 
 
GUAYMAS. 473 
 
 ranchos. The following itinerary embraces all the 
 ranchos along the road, which are the common stop- 
 ping places for passing travellers and trains of mer- 
 chandise : 
 
 Hermosillo to El Pozo (the well), a rancho, 7 leagues, 
 El Pozo to La Palma (the palm), a rancho, 6 " 
 
 La Palma to El Pozito (the little well), 4 " 
 
 El Pozito to La Cieneguita (little marsh), 4 " 
 
 La Cieneguita to Noche Buena (goodnight), 7 " 
 
 Noche Buena to La Palmita (little palm), 3 " 
 
 (now abandoned for want of water) ; 
 La Palmita to Jesus Maria, . .3 " 
 
 Jesus Maria to Guaymas, . 3 " 
 
 37 leagues. 
 
 We halted at El Pozo, a well, with an ordinary 
 rancho, being unable to proceed further, as our extra 
 mules had not come up. At this place we made our 
 supper with what we brought with us ; after which we 
 spread our blankets within the walls of the rancho, and 
 there passed a comfortable night. The transportation 
 of goods between Guaymas and the interior, is almost 
 entirely upon pack mules. We met many atajos, or 
 trains, loaded with various sorts of merchandise, des- 
 tined for the inland towns, or bound for the port with 
 loads of flour. 
 
 January 3d We had intended taking an early start, 
 so as to finish the day's march early ; but the arrieros 
 were slow, and in spite of all our efforts, we did not 
 get off till after 8 o'clock, when the heat of the sun was 
 already uncomfortable. The road was as good as yes- 
 
474 URES TO 
 
 i. 
 
 terday, and the country as barren and uninteresting. 
 The road sides were covered with various kinds of stunt- 
 ed trees and thorny shrubs, interspersed with numer- 
 ous varieties of the larger kinds of cacti, some of which 
 we had not before seen. Passed the ranchos of La Pal- 
 ma and El Pozito, and stopped at that of La Cieneguita 
 for the night, fourteen leagues from our starting-place. 
 The ranchos are ordinary farm houses of adobe, though 
 pretty large. Each has a well, and supports more or 
 less cattle and mules, according to the facilities for 
 grazing and obtaining a supply of water. These estab- 
 lishments seem to be planted in the most forlorn-look- 
 ing situations, where there is not a shade tree or a foot 
 of cultivable ground. The whole business being the 
 raising of cattle, their position is fixed solely with re- 
 ference to grazing, which the cattle are said to find 
 in plenty among the distant hills ; though a passer along 
 the road is at a loss to conceive where an animal can 
 find wherewithal to sustain life. The cattle came up 
 to the rancho for water, which is generally furnished 
 from wells, and is raised by the bucket and sweep, or 
 by the still more primitive apparatus of a raw-hide 
 bag and rope, which is worked by hand, without the 
 assistance of any mechanical power whatever. 
 
 Nothing could be obtained at these places but milk, 
 and that only in the morning : I inquired for eggs 
 and chickens in vain. Senor Aguilar, being well ac- 
 quainted with the people from his frequent journeys 
 between the two towns, was always well received and 
 supplied with the best the rancho could furnish ; yet 
 tortillas and milk were all that could be got even under 
 these circumstances. 
 
GUAYMAS. 475 
 
 The milch cows are managed by the women, and 
 a peep into the corral at, milking time would highly 
 amuse our Yankee dairy people. The calves, being in 
 an adjoining corral, are let in among the cows one or 
 two at a time. These of course run for their mothers. 
 The women then tie together the hinder legs of the 
 cow thus designated, and while one holds a gourd 
 shell, the other divides her time between drawing the 
 milk and beating away the calf, which, not liking this 
 appropriation of his breakfast, charges repeatedly upon 
 the invaders and renders the process any thing but a 
 quiet one. The cows are milked but once a day, and 
 give not more than a quarter as much as our well-fed 
 cows at each milking. Very little butter is made in 
 the country, the milk being mostly manufactured into 
 a sour and most indigestible article of the consistence 
 of gutta percha, which is dignified with the name 
 of cheese. Generally nothing is cultivated at these 
 ranchos, the corn and flour consumed about them being 
 brought from a distance. 
 
 January Mk. We did not get off any earlier than 
 yesterday. Passed the rancho of Noche Buena with- 
 out stopping. The next rancho, La Palmita, had been 
 abandoned, its well having dried up. We had there- 
 fore to continue our journey to that of Jesus Maria, 
 making altogether about thirty-nine miles. Here we 
 watered. Soon after we arrived, my servant came in 
 with the unpleasant news that my pack mule had given 
 out at Noche Buena, and that it would be necessary 
 to procure and send back a fresh one to bring in my 
 baggage. A Mexican was immediately sent back with 
 another animal ; but as the distance was six leagues, 
 
476 URES TO 
 
 and it was already three o'clock, I feared that my bag- 
 gage would not reach Guaymas till very late, if at all, 
 that night. We now proceeded on our journey, the 
 face of the country continuing as before described ; 
 and soon after we experienced the most delightful sen- 
 sation of inhaling the fresh and balmy air from the 
 ocean, to which we were now drawing near. None 
 but those who, like myself, have spent a year and a 
 half on the parched and barren wastes of the interior 
 of our continent, or similar arid plains in Asia or 
 Africa, can form any idea of the delight with which 
 one first breathes the moist and invigorating ocean 
 breeze. 
 
 A range of low mountains runs along the coast, the 
 summit of which assume most fantastic shapes. The 
 most conspicuous of these peaks are the Tetas de Cobra 
 (Goats' teats), two elongated cones rising side by side. 
 Passing this range, we came in sight of the great wa- 
 ters of the Gulf of California, and riding a few miles 
 further, we entered Guaymas. 
 
 Wishing to avail myself of the first vessel to Mazat- 
 lan, I immediately visited Mr. J. A. Robinson, the U. S. 
 Consul, to ascertain whether any were soon to sail for 
 that port. Mr. R. informed me that he had a schooner 
 which had just cleared, and then lay aground in the 
 harbor ; that she would probably get oft* with the rise 
 of the tide, about 9 o'clock in the evening. I told him 
 the situation of my baggage, when he kindly offered 
 to detain his vessel till morning, if necessary. Mr. Ro- 
 binson then invited me to his house to dine, an invita- 
 tion which I accepted; after which he provided me 
 with a room and bed, to which I soon retired, and 
 
GUAYMAS. 477 
 
 passed a most refreshing night after the fatigues of the 
 day. 
 
 Guaymas stands on the eastern shore of the Gulf 
 of California, in 28° north latitude, and 110° 40' long, 
 west of Greenwich. It is completely shut in from the 
 sea as well as from the winds. Mountains protect it 
 on the main, while islands with elevated hills surround 
 it by sea. Next to Acapulco, it is the best port on the 
 Mexican coast. The entrance from south to north is 
 formed by the island of Pajaros on the east, and by the 
 islands of San Vicente and Pitayas and the main land 
 on the west. There is another entrance, called Boca 
 Chica, from the south-east, having the island of Pajaros 
 on the south and the shore of Cochori on the north, 
 which terminates at the Motto Ingles, or English Ham- 
 mock. From the principal mouth to the mole is about 
 four miles, and the bay is of about the same extent. 
 The bottom is so muddy, that ships which are obliged 
 to remain some time, find it necessary to raise their an- 
 chors every week or so, to prevent their becoming too 
 deeply imbedded to be extricated. The soundings 
 commence with seven fathoms, and diminish gradually 
 to two, at the side of the mole. 
 
 The bay abounds in fish of a great variety and deli- 
 cacy ; also with shrimps, crabs, lobsters, and oysters. 
 But plentiful as these are, they are not easily purchas- 
 ed, and the market has no regular supply. The Yaqui 
 Indians, who are the chief fishermen, after catching a 
 lot, live and gamble upon the proceeds until the last 
 avo (a small copper coin) is spent ; when they are too 
 often obliged to pawn their blankets for the means of 
 hiring a boat to go and catch more. 
 
478 URES TO 
 
 The town stands close on the margin of the bay, 
 occupying a narrow strip about a mile in length and 
 - not exceeding a quarter of a mile in width, when the 
 mountains rise and hem it closely in. It is entered 
 from the north by a single avenue, which forms its 
 main street ; and this is intersected by short lateral 
 ones leading to the bay. The houses are built of stone, 
 brick, and adobe. Those in the best parts of the town 
 are plastered, which gives them a respectable appear- 
 ance. There are several families of wealth here, whose 
 houses are handsomely furnished, and who enjoy the 
 luxuries of a residence near the coast. The streets are 
 lighted at night, a convenience not noticed elsewhere. 
 The place is supplied with water from wells in the 
 suburbs, which is brought through the streets in leath- 
 ern bags on the backs of donkeys. It is somewhat 
 brackish, and at first unpleasant to the taste ; but it is 
 considered wholesome, and one soon becomes accus- 
 tomed to it.* Below the town is the only neat ceme- 
 tery we had seen in the country. The Campo Santo 
 is generally a small inclosure in which bodies are al- 
 lowed to moulder without any thing to mark the graves, 
 the bones of former tenants being thrown out to make 
 room for the new comers. Here are a number of neat 
 monuments, and the ground is kept with some show of 
 order. On the " feast of the dead" the bells toll day 
 and night ; and in the evening, the graves and monu- 
 ments are surrounded with lighted candles, and visited 
 
 * For the facts relating to Guaymas and Hermosillo, not derived from 
 personal observation during rny brief stay in these places, 1 am indebted 
 to Velasco's " Noticias Estadisticas del Estado de ScHiora." 
 
GUAYMAS. 479 
 
 by the friends of the departed. These kneel by the 
 graves, while the priest, with a choir of singers, goes 
 from one to the other, singing as many prayers for the 
 souls of the departed as the survivors choose to pay 
 for. 
 
 Although Guaymas has one of the finest ports in 
 the world, and is a key to the interior of Sonora, it 
 never enjoyed much trade until within a few years. 
 The recent settlement of California, has doubtless given 
 to its commerce a new impulse. Several ships and brigs 
 were at anchor in the harbor, while others lay at the 
 wharves ; and the British steamer Driver, which is kept 
 on the Pacific coast to facilitate and protect British 
 commerce, makes monthly visits to this port. In 1845, 
 there were exported from here only 8000 cargas of flour, 
 of 300 pounds each. There are now many large and 
 well filled warehouses of goods, such as would make a 
 respectable appearance in one of our great commercial 
 cities. Some of the retail dry -goods stores, too, are 
 elegantly fitted up, and exhibit piles of the richest 
 silks, satins, linens, and embroideries. I was shown by 
 its owner through one of the largest establishments, and 
 regretted that there was scarcely an article of American 
 manufacture in the entire stock. Every thing was either 
 English or French. I saw many articles which we can 
 produce of equal or better quality, and quite as low ; 
 but it seems that our commerce has not yet found its 
 way up the California Gulf. The market is so much 
 better at San Francisco, that every thing rushes there. 
 
 As the soil in the vicinity is dry and stony, there 
 are no gardens or cultivated spots in or near the town. 
 Every thing comes from the interior. Maize, beans, 
 
480 URES TO 
 
 and vegetables are brought from San Antonio and San- 
 ta Rosa, about ten leagues distant ; while from the 
 Yaqui River are procured sheep, fowls, and some grains. 
 Shut in as Guaymas is from the sea, and on every side 
 encompassed by hills or mountains, the heat is intense. 
 In the summer the mercury often rises to 104° Fahren- 
 heit in the shade, and from June to September it is sel- 
 dom below 96°. During this season, when the wind 
 blows from the desert plains of the north, it is so dry 
 and parched as to be almost intolerable, destroying 
 furniture and every thing else of wood. Scarcely a 
 soul is then seen in the streets, every one remaining 
 quietly within doors, and passing his time with as little 
 exertion as possible. The place was formerly consid- 
 ered healthy ; but of late, it has suffered terribly from 
 epidemics, one following the other, until the town, 
 in the brief space of two years immediately preceding 
 my visit, lost one third of its population. Cholera and 
 bilious fevers have been the chief epidemics. 
 
 In order to ensure the arrival of my baggage, which 
 had not yet made its appearance, and about which I 
 began to feel much uneasiness, Mr. Robinson kindly 
 sent his most trusty servant on a fast horse back to meet 
 the arrieros, and hurry them forward. I was desirous, 
 while the man was absent, to go back to the hills and 
 take a sketch of the place, but was afraid to expose 
 myself to the sun, besides not wishing to delay the 
 vessel any longer, should my baggage happen to ar- 
 rive. At half-past three o'clock, Mr. Robinson's mes- 
 senger returned. He had actually ridden back nearly 
 to Noche Buena, where my mule gave out, when he 
 met the lazy arrieros smoking their cigarritos and 
 
GUAYMAS. 481 
 
 moving along at a snail's pace. They had been dozing 
 away the morning, and, if left to their own devices, 
 would not have arrived in two days. 
 
 After taking farewell of Mr. Robinson's family and 
 my kind friend Senor Aguilar, to whom I shall ever 
 feel under many obligations, I went on board the 
 Maria, a mere pilot boat of fifty-seven tons burden, and 
 we immediately put to sea with a fair wind. 
 
 VOL. I. 31 
 
482 GUAYMAS TO 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 GUAYMAS TO SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA. 
 
 Voyage down the Gulf of California in a pilot boat — Barren coast — Island 
 of Carmen — Loreto — Reach Mazatlan — Its picturesque appearance — 
 Description of the town — Americans here — Embark for Acapulco — Land 
 at San Bias — Visit to Mr. Horn, the Captain of the Port — Ride to the 
 old town — Its beautiful position — Ruined condition — Visit an old for- 
 tress — Leave San Bias — Description of the coast — Volcanoes of Colima 
 — Land at Manzanillo Bay — Its unhealthy climate — Laguna — Cargo 
 discharged — Stupidity of Custom House official — Leave without papers 
 — Reach Acapulco — Chinese hotel — Beautiful harbor — Castle of San 
 Carlos — Unhealthiness of the place — Extreme heat — Noxious insects — 
 Description of the town — Ancient commerce — Departure for San Diego 
 — Crowded state of the steamer — Voyage up the coast — Arrival at San 
 Diego — Rejoin the Boundary Commission. 
 
 January 6th. Our little vessel was much crowded 
 with passengers, and I was compelled to put up with 
 very uncomfortable accommodations. But my anxiety 
 to reach San Diego, made me willingly submit to any 
 inconveniences, not absolutely injurious to health, to 
 accomplish my purpose. The wind was fresh from the 
 north-west ; and all the passengers, fourteen in num- 
 ber, were sick, except myself and an old voyager. 
 I spent the day very pleasantly in reading some New- 
 York papers kindly furnished me by Mr. Robinson. 
 These were a delightful treat; for I had not heard 
 from my family or the government, or seen an Ameri- 
 
SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA. 483 
 
 can paper for more than six months ; and the latest 
 intelligence I had had was of the date of May, 1851, 
 or eight months previous. 
 
 January 7th. The north-west wind continuing, 
 we made rapid headway under a close-reefed mainsail 
 and foresail. Our little craft, which had seen rough 
 weather in the harbor of New- York, scudded beauti- 
 fully before the fresh breeze, half the time covered 
 with water. The shores of the gulf were occasionally 
 seen in the dim distance, rising abruptly from the sea, 
 barren and desolate. In some places sandy beaches 
 and desert plains intervened between the sea and the 
 mountains. Saw the islands of Carmen and Catalina 
 on our right. Behind the former lies the town of Lo- 
 reto, the principal place on the Californian peninsula. 
 As little has ever been written about this part of the 
 world, I append a brief account of this town and its 
 adjacent country, which will convey a correct idea of 
 the peninsula.* 
 
 "Loreto stands in a vallev of about two or three 
 thousand feet wide, surrounded by wild and sterile 
 mountains, of which that called " La Giganta " is the 
 highest and least picturesque. There are two gardens 
 in the place, in which the vine, peach, fig, quince, and 
 date are cultivated. A considerable quantity of wine 
 is annually made. Peaches and pears are dried as well 
 as figs : the dates are preserved. 
 
 " The situation of Loreto being in a valley of very 
 limited extent, in which there is only space for the 
 town and two gardens, and there being no possibility 
 
 * Hardy's Travels in Mexico. London, 1829, p. 244. 
 
484 GUAYMAS TO 
 
 of raising either wheat or maize, the inhabitants are 
 obliged to depend upon Sonora almost for subsistence. 
 Another circumstance renders the tenure upon which 
 they exist very precarious. The hills which surround 
 the town are chiefly composed of primitive rock, 
 granite, and sandstone intermingled, with scarcely any 
 soil upon them. They thus absorb but little mois- 
 ture ; and during the heavy rains, which happily do 
 not occur more than once in five or six years, the rush 
 of water through every part of the town, as it comes 
 down the ravine, is so great, that instances have been 
 known of some of the houses having been actually 
 carried away. 
 
 " To prevent the occurrence of this danger, the 
 former Franciscan friars, many years ago, erected a 
 stone wall, to break the force of the water, and give 
 it a new direction towards the sea. In successive 
 years the rains washed this barrier away. Another 
 was built, which shared the same fate ; and at present 
 there is but a slight trace that it ever existed. 
 
 The inhabitants of Loreto are of a dingy, opaque, 
 olive green, which shows there is no friendly mixture in 
 the blood of the Spaniard and the Indian. They appear 
 to be the same squalid, flabby, mixed race, which is 
 observed in almost every part of the Mexican coasts. 
 The population does not exceed two hundred and fifty 
 souls. The annual importation of corn from Sonora, 
 is from 800 to 1000 fanegas. The exportations consist 
 of soap, preserved fruits, wines, spirits, pearls, tortoise- 
 shell and salt ; the latter being obtained in a lake on 
 the Island of Carmen. • 
 
 January 8th. Our hopes of reaching Mazatlan to- 
 
SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA. 485 
 
 day, were frustrated by a calm. Our little craft was 
 tossed about by the dead swell much more than when 
 ploughing the waves in a gale. Our Mexican passen- 
 gers called on San Antonio to send us a breeze, but he 
 heeded not their invocations. We now stood in towards 
 the shore, and thus caught the land breeze, which wafted 
 us onward with speed. 
 
 January 9th. Came to anchor in the harbor ofMa- 
 zatlan at 8 o'clock ; soon after which, we were boarded 
 by the captain of the port. This gentleman, after look- 
 ing over the list of passengers, gave us permission to 
 land. I lost no time, therefore, in making my way to 
 the shore, accompanied by Colonel Moreno, of the 
 Mexican army, who was a fellow passenger. This gen- 
 tleman, who was educated in the United States, and 
 speaks English like a native, was of great service to me, 
 being well acquainted at all places on the coast. Be- 
 sides, his position gives him influence wherever he 
 goes. The Colonel took me to a hotel kept by a Chi- 
 naman, where we took rooms. The bill of fare here 
 displayed would compare favorably with that of our 
 American hotels, and the cooking was excellent. No- 
 ticing several Chinamen about, attending to menial 
 duties, I inquired of the landlord, if his cook was a 
 countryman of his ; but was told in reply that he was a 
 German, to whom he said he paid $40 a month, which, 
 in his estimation, was a very high price. The area or 
 inclosure of the hotel had been converted into a cock- 
 pit, in which were some thirty or forty game cocks, 
 each fastened by the leg to a small stake. It was well 
 fitted up and protected by an awning. 
 
 Mazatlan has a very picturesque appearance, whe- 
 
486 GUAYMAS TO 
 
 ther approached from the sea, or by land. On the 
 north side of the bay or roadstead is a long neck, or 
 narrow range of rocky and fantastic looking hills, their 
 sides exhibiting projecting crags and deep indenta- 
 tions, which the ocean has been lashing for ages. The 
 extreme end of this promontory, which it should more 
 properly be termed, is higher than the other portion, 
 and of a sugar loaf form. Beneath these hills on the 
 verge of the sea, the houses are thickly crowded toge- 
 ther. But the best portion of the town lies on more 
 level ground, and directly facing the roadstead. On 
 the south are rocky islands defending the harbor in 
 that direction ; but there is no protection from the west 
 and south-west. Here the harbor is open to the broad 
 Pacific ; and when the wind is from that quarter, the 
 sea rolls in with great force, from which ships can find 
 no security. Serious disasters have happened here 
 during south-westerly gales. 
 
 The town contains from ten to twelve thousand 
 inhabitants. Its streets, though narrow, are well laid 
 out, and lined with large and well built houses. More 
 taste and luxury are looked for in commercial towns 
 than in those of the interior, and accordingly we found 
 Mazatlan to be considerably in advance of any town 
 we had yet seen. The houses are more substantial and 
 elegant, though unfortunately, in consequence of its 
 narrow streets, they show but to little advantage. The 
 style is wholly that of the old Castilian, with short 
 columns, Moorish capitals, and ornaments. Many houses 
 present long lines of colonnades. There are many fine 
 and well filled shops. Those containing drygoods are 
 neatly fitted up ; and, in the richness of their goods, 
 
SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA. 487 
 
 vie with the fashionable stores of New York. The 
 Spanish ladies are fond of dress ; and I have no doubt 
 the manufacturers of Lyons sell as rich silks in Mexico 
 as they do in Paris or London. 
 
 In the afternoon I walked out to the suburbs for 
 the purpose of making the accompanying sketch. I 
 chose for my site an old burial place. In the fore- 
 ground, are a number of small houses built of sticks 
 and adobe, with pointed roofs, thatched with palm 
 leaves. In the middle of the picture, less distinct, is 
 the best portion of the town ; while the harbor and 
 northern promontory are seen beyond. 
 
 I found a number of Americans here, some of whom 
 had been waiting a month for a steamer for San Fran- 
 cisco. Three days before my arrival, the regular mail 
 steamer reached the offing, and sent a boat on shore 
 for the mail, but refused to receive any passengers, on 
 the ground that she was full. These people were 
 greatly disappointed, and complained bitterly. Many 
 had expended their last cent, and were now in great 
 distress. 
 
 January 10th. Called on Mr. Gatton, the U. S. Con- 
 sul, who received me kindly and extended many civili- 
 ties to me. Mr. G., who is from Virginia, informed 
 me that the income of his office was five hundred dol- 
 lars less than his expenses. Board, office rent, postages, 
 &c, were very high. He remained solely for the benefit 
 of his health. 
 
 As the chances were against my getting a steamer 
 for San Diego, I was advised to take a sailing vessel for 
 Acapulco. At that place all the Californian steamers 
 stop for coal ; and as they arrive every week, I should 
 
488 GUAYMAS TO 
 
 not, at the farthest, be detained many days. To take a 
 sailing vessel direct for San Diego or San Francisco, 
 would require a voyage at this season, when north- 
 westerly winds prevail, of thirty or forty days. I there- 
 fore determined to make the long voyage of some six 
 hundred miles directly out of my way, as the quickest 
 route to my place of destination, and at once inquired 
 for a vessel. Fortunately for me, there was one to 
 leave in the evening, and I lost no time in securing 
 a passage. 
 
 Early in the evening I went to the place of embarka- 
 tion on the beach ; from which, as the tide was low, each 
 passenger had to be taken in the arms of the Mexican 
 boatmen, some forty or fifty yards to the boat. The 
 vessel was more than a mile from the shore, and we 
 were not a little puzzled how to find her among the 
 number that lay in the offing. After much inquiry, 
 however, we succeeded. Her name was the Miguel ; 
 and, though sailing under the Mexican flag, she was 
 commanded by Captain Nye, a very clever navigator, 
 hailing from New Bedford, Massachusetts. 
 
 Knowing the thievish propensities of the lower class 
 of Mexicans, I directed my servant to keep a sharp 
 look out for my baggage, while I stepped to the cabin 
 to secure a berth. Soon after he was ordered to bring 
 me my desk ; and though absent less than a minute, 
 he found on his return, that the boat which had brought 
 us had pushed off, and a portion of my baggage was 
 gone. The moment my servant had left them, they 
 took what they could lay their hands on, jumped into 
 their boat, and disappeared in the dark. Pursuit was 
 useless. The articles lost were not of much value ; but 
 
SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA. 489 
 
 it was provoking, notwithstanding all my care, to be 
 robbed by this rascally people wherever I went. 
 While speaking of my misfortune, one of the passen- 
 gers said his silk handkerchief had been taken from his 
 coat pocket by the man who brought him in his arms 
 to the boat. Two other passengers, on examining their 
 pockets, found that they had sustained a similar loss. 
 I could not help laughing, informing them that I had 
 taken the precaution to secure a fine silk handkerchief 
 I had just bought, by putting a couple of oranges in 
 my pocket above it. "You had better look," said 
 my friends, "and see what your precautions amount 
 to." I did so, and found I had been operated upon 
 as effectually as the rest. 
 
 January 11th — l?>tli. These days were spent at sea, 
 bound for San Bias,, distance one hundred and twenty 
 miles. We had expected to reach there in one day, 
 but were retarded by light winds and calms. No inci- 
 dent occurred worthy of notice. We had some ten or 
 twelve passengers, all Mexicans but three. Of these, 
 one was a German, Mr. Mejer, a merchant of Colima, 
 Mr. Augustus Harcourt,* a Scotchman, and myself. Mr. 
 Harcourt had just arrived at Mazatlan from El Paso 
 del Norte, by way of the city of Chihuahua, and gave 
 me information from that place to a late date. 
 
 January lWi. This morning we entered the har- 
 
 * This Mr. Harcourt was the same person who was formerly con- 
 nected with the United States Quarter-master's office at Santa Fe, New 
 Mexico, where he was guilty of some irregularities, such as placing the 
 name of the Quarter-master to drafts on the government, to the serious 
 loss of sundry merchants who cashed them, as well as to the Quarter- 
 master himself. 
 
490 GUAYMAS TO 
 
 bor of San Bias, at seven o'clock, and before we came 
 to anchor were boarded by Mr. Horn, the captain of the 
 port. Had that officer been a Mexican, he would not 
 have visited us in an hour. All the passengers but 
 three left us here. 
 
 Went on shore at ten o'clock, and met a fellow 
 passenger coming out to our ship to invite me to 
 breakfast with Mr. Horn at twelve o'clock. I accepted 
 the invitation, and soon after paid my respects to this 
 gentlemanly and accomplished officer. Mr. H. is by 
 birth a Swede, and is married to a Mexican lady. Both 
 are quite young. Their house is built of poles, after 
 the manner of the country ; the intermediate spaces 
 are filled up with mud, which is plastered and white- 
 washed. The foundation is of stone, very thick, and 
 rising about three feet above ground. On this rest 
 the poles. These support a very tall and pointed roof 
 of the same material, covered with cocoa-nut leaves 
 and grass, closely bound together, so as to be imper- 
 vious to water. The whole is open from the floor to 
 the apex of the roof. This species of roof and thatching 
 is universally adopted here, as well as at other places on 
 the coast ; and by giving a large space for the free cir- 
 culation of air, it renders the house cool and comfort- 
 able. Mr. Horn's house is elegantly fitted up with well 
 selected engravings, a variety of books in the Swed- 
 ish, English, French, and Spanish languages, and fur- 
 niture adapted to the climate. I have nowhere seen 
 more taste and better arrangements for comfort in a 
 hot climate than here. 
 
 After a sumptuous breakfast, Mr. Horn ordered 
 three horses to the door, and accompanied Captain 
 
 
SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA. 491 
 
 Nye and myself to the old town of San Bias, three quar- 
 ters of a mile distant, on the summit of an isolated 
 rock from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet 
 high. This rock, which rises abruptly from a low, 
 swampy, and partly wooded plain, is inaccessible on 
 three sides. The northern side, where we ascended, 
 has been cut away ; and a winding path, of easy ascent, 
 leads to the top. This road is closely lined with a 
 dense forest of cocoa, banana, plantain, and other tro- 
 pical trees, together with a thick undergrowth of 
 flowering plants and vines, which are closely bound 
 together, and prevent all ingress. The bold, rocky 
 mass presents a most picturesque appearance. Portions 
 of it exhibit a bare perpendicular front, while others are 
 covered with a most luxuriant vegetation. The sum- 
 mit, which is about five hundred yards square, was 
 formerly occupied by the town ; but, owing to the 
 unheal thiness of the situation, it has been deserted and 
 suffered to fall to decay. The business of the town 
 has long been transacted at the Play a, or shore, where 
 we landed ; but the custom-house has lately been 
 removed to the spacious and commodious buildings on 
 the rock, and the ruined tenements around seem 
 about to become the abodes of men once more. 
 
 On reaching the summit of the rock, one first 
 enters a large and elegant building of stone, with a 
 colonnade around its inner side, and stuccoed with a 
 snowy-white cement. On the outer side is a redoubt, 
 built on the very verge of the rock, which is here per- 
 pendicular. Cannon of large calibre are arranged in 
 the ports. This building, which seems to have been 
 abandoned for a long time, is now undergoing repairs, 
 
492 GUAYMAS TO 
 
 and is used as a public warehouse, and for offices of 
 the customs. 
 
 At the other end of the rock is a fine old church, 
 built of dark gray stone, with some six or eight bells 
 suspended in its ruined towers. The roof of the edi- 
 fice has fallen in, and nothing now remains but its bare 
 walls, which, owing to the solid manner in which they 
 were built, are in good preservation. In front of the 
 church is the plaza, which is completely inclosed by 
 substantial stone buildings, some with tasty colonnades. 
 Many of these buildings are in good preservation, while 
 others are in a more or less ruined state. I noticed 
 that some were undergoing repairs. 
 
 The custom-house was for many years at Tepic, 
 twenty-five miles distant, of which San Bias is the port. 
 It remained there on account of the unhealthiness of 
 San Bias, which in former years suffered greatly from 
 epidemics. The plain of which I have spoken is often 
 under water ; and the exhalations from it cause malig- 
 nant fevers, besides giving birth to myriads of mos- 
 quitoes and sand-flies. During the rainy season, from 
 June to November, the place is uninhabitable, owing 
 to the torrents of rain, which destroy the houses, and 
 perfectly insulate the rock. San Bias affords meat, 
 various kinds of fruit, and vegetables, of which our 
 captain laid in a supply. A stream comes in at the 
 plaza, which affords a good boat harbor ; but outside, 
 ships are obliged to anchor in the open roadstead, 
 where they are exposed to westerly gales. 
 
 Returning from this beautiful spot, Mr. Horn placed 
 at my disposal the government barge, for the purpose 
 of crossing the bay to an old ruined fort, from which 
 
SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA. 493 
 
 I wished to take a view of the town. There had been 
 a large fortress here, with bastions; but it was now, 
 and seemed long to have been, in a ruinous condition. 
 Cannon of large calibre lay near the ports, where they 
 were originally placed, just discoverable beneath the 
 dense shrubbery and weeds which filled the inclosure. 
 Their heavy carriages had entirely rotted way. I 
 seated myself on an old gun, but had no sooner com- 
 menced my sketch than I was enveloped with a cloud 
 of sand-flies and mosquitoes. In vain did I endeavor to 
 beat them off, my friends lending me their assistance. 
 My face, hands, and paper were literally covered with 
 the pests. I submitted with as good a grace as I 
 could, until the smarting pain of their bite compelled 
 me to relinquish my task without obtaining the object 
 for which I came. I returned to the house of my 
 courteous friend, with whom I took tea, and at ten 
 o'clock returned to the ship. The present population 
 of San Bias is two thousand. 
 
 January 15th. At sea, having sailed during the 
 night. Found our brig far more comfortable, in con- 
 sequence of the reduced number of passengers. 
 
 January 17th. At sea, with a light wind off shore. 
 In the afternoon found ourselves off the volcanoes of 
 Colima, bearing east. Near the shore was a large and 
 remarkably white rock, rising abruptly from the sea 
 as high as the mast head. By this our captain was 
 enabled to find the opening to the bay of Manzanillo, 
 to which place we were now destined. There is a great 
 uniformity in the thousand miles of Pacific coast which 
 I have traced. A chain of mountains extends the entire 
 length, and often rises abruptly from the shore. Even 
 
494 GUAYMAS TO 
 
 when a few miles intervene between it and the coast, 
 the appearance from the sea is the same. Hence the 
 openings of the various ports and harbors are difficult 
 to detect, except where some bold promontory juts 
 out into the ocean, or some island or rock is found 
 near. The opening of Manzanillo Bay would not be 
 observed by a passing vessel. But the bearings of the 
 volcanoes, two well defined and lofty peaks, some forty 
 miles in the interior, and the rocky island alluded to, 
 conduct the mariner to the spot. We reached the 
 entrance just at dusk ; but as there was no chart of 
 the bay, and several bold rocks showed themselves, 
 the captain thought it prudent to stand off till morn- 
 ing. 
 
 January 18th. The morning found us becalmed 
 some ten miles from shore. This was provoking, but 
 there was no help. Fortunately in the afternoon a 
 light breeze sprang up, and at five o'clock we came to 
 anchor in the Bay of Manzanillo. 
 
 January 19th. The custom-house officer would not 
 permit the cargo to be discharged until the ship's 
 papers were sent to Colima, where the collector resides. 
 When this was intimated last evening to Mr. Mejer, 
 the owner, he procured mules and set off at once to 
 attend to the matter personally. Colima lies on the 
 opposite side of a low range of mountains which cannot 
 be crossed ; so that though but thirty miles distant in 
 a direct line, it is between ninety and a hundred by 
 the mule path, which is the only route to it. The day 
 was exceedingly hot, so that I did not leave the vessel. 
 
 January 20th. To-day, although it continued very 
 hot, I went on shore ; the place consists of some twenty 
 
SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA. 41)5 
 
 houses built of poles, with high pointed roofs, and 
 thatched with cocoa and plantain leaves. These houses 
 are ranged in a line along the beach, and are occupied 
 by a cadaverous-looking people, who seem to have 
 scarcely energy enough left to keep body and soul to- 
 gether. Found a German here, the commercial agent 
 of Mr. Mejer, who spoke English well. I saw also two 
 custom-house officials, who appear to be gentlemanly 
 men. Beside these three, the whole population con- 
 sists of the lowest class. 
 
 The Bay of Manzanillo, though little known, is one 
 of the finest on the coast, being equally well protected 
 against all winds. The place has no direct trade, and is 
 merely resorted to as the port of Colima, which can be 
 approached from the sea only through this bay. There 
 is no arable land near save small garden spots about the 
 houses, the hills rising directly from the sea and from 
 the bay. Hence its admirable harbor, which is far 
 superior to those of San Bias and Mazatlan, cannot be 
 taken advantage of. Within a quarter of a mile is a 
 lagoon and morass about two miles in width, and sixty 
 miles in length. During the dry season this lagoon 
 becomes nearly empty of water, when a pestilential 
 effluvia arises which renders it extremely dangerous to 
 all who live on the bay, and even to the crews of the 
 ships which stop there. This, of course, will prevent 
 any considerable settlement from ever being made 
 here. Instances have occurred where every soul on 
 board a ship has been taken sick and half of them have 
 died, while stopping here a few days to discharge a 
 cargo. My German friend cautioned me not to eat 
 any fruit while here, even an orange, and to avoid the 
 
496 
 
 GUAYMAS TO SAN DIEGO, 
 
 night air. The plantains, bananas, and oranges laid in 
 by me at San Bias, have therefore been put aside to 
 rot or be thrown overboard. The cheapness of these 
 fruits on this coast is such, that a single dollar will buy 
 enough for a voyage to San Francisco, allowing for a 
 daily supply as much as one could eat. 
 
 Manzanillo Bay. 
 
 January list A courier arrived very unexpect- 
 edly from Colima, with the ship's papers and permission 
 to discharge the cargo. This news was received with 
 much joy. A lighter was soon alongside, with a host of 
 half-naked Mexicans, and all hands at once set to work. 
 
 This morning I took my gun and returned to the 
 laguna, to see if there was any game. I found a log 
 canoe, and coasted along its banks for a mile or more. 
 
SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA. 497 
 
 There was a great abundance of ducks, pelicans, cranes, 
 and other water fowl ; but I was so much exposed, 
 that I could not get a shot. I now landed to try my 
 chance from among the mangrove trees and jangle 
 which grew on the banks. But here the difficulty of 
 walking was so great, that it was at the hazard of my 
 life that I attempted to penetrate the thicket ; and I 
 was glad to get out as quick as possible, reach the 
 higher and dry ground, and retrace my way to the 
 village. Besides I felt that there was some danger in 
 exposing myself in so unhealthy a spot during the 
 intense heat of noonday. This laguna had a most 
 enchanting appearance. The exuberance of the nu- 
 merous tropical plants which grew upon its shores, 
 with the hills rising on every side, made it seem like a 
 vast amphitheatre. 
 
 I noticed on the rugged hills at the entrance of the 
 bay a number of the petahaya, or giant cereus, differing 
 from the specimens of that remarkable plant which I 
 had seen in Sonora, and which I therefore supposed to 
 be another variety. These grew to about twenty or 
 twenty-five feet in height, and had numerous and more 
 slender branches. The rocks were so steep, and so 
 thickly covered with cacti and dense shrubbery, that I 
 made no attempt to approach nearer than to take a 
 sketch of a perfect specimen, of which I had a fine view. 
 
 January 2 2d Towards evening when the sun had 
 got behind the hills, I went to some rocke at the end of 
 the village and took a sketch. The cargo having now 
 all been taken out, the captain went on shore for his 
 papers, leaving orders to get the vessel ready for sea, 
 when another difficulty occurred. The officer affirmed 
 vol. i. — 32 
 
498 GUAYMAS TO 
 
 that the papers required the signature of the " Captain 
 of the Port," who was at Colima, and positively refused 
 to give them or sign them himself. A messenger was 
 accordingly dispatched to that place again, and ordered 
 to ride all night. A strong fair wind which was now 
 blowing made this unexpected delay the more annoy- 
 ing ; but we had no alternative and must quietly submit. 
 
 This Colima, which so long detained us, is the capi- 
 tal of a small state of the same name. It is said to 
 contain 30,000 inhabitants, or half the population of 
 the State. The city is remarkable in a historical point 
 of view, having been founded by the " Great Captain" 
 or conqueror of Mexico, Cortez himself, between the 
 years 1522 and 1524, after his return from Spain. The 
 town of Zacatula, twenty -five leagues to the south on 
 the coast, was also founded by Cortez. This is a place 
 of little importance, containing only about two thou- 
 sand inhabitants. 
 
 January 25th. In the afternoon the messenger 
 returned from Colima, bringing the papers for which we 
 had been detained. The captain went on shore to get 
 them, when it appeared that the stupid officer, by mis- 
 take had sent the passenger roll instead of the manifest 
 and clearance papers to the collector. He was for dis- 
 patching the messenger again with the proper papers ; 
 but the patience of Captain Nye, as well as of the pas- 
 sengers, was now exhausted, and the captain declared 
 that he would dance attendance no longer. We had 
 been here a week, when a single day would have suf- 
 ficed to discharge the portion of the cargo that was to 
 be left at the place. The captain returned at once to 
 the ship, and soon after got under weigh. 
 
SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA. 499 
 
 January '61st Our voyage of six days had been 
 attended with no incident. Calms and light winds 
 prevailed, while the heat was extreme. The coast was 
 mountainous and barren, presenting the same general 
 features as before described. At 4 o'clock, p. m., we 
 reached Acapulco. I lost no time in getting on shore ; 
 and instead of being attracted to a public house styled 
 the American Hotel, where I saw large numbers of my 
 countrymen, I went with my fellow-passenger to the 
 Canton Hotel, kept by Quanahu, a native Chinese. This 
 was the very perfection of neatness. The house, like 
 all others in the place, was of a single story, with a large 
 court in the centre. The floors and courts were all 
 laid with brick or cement, and the walls were either 
 colored or whitewashed. The landlord had long lived 
 on the coast, and spoke Spanish well. Of English he 
 knew nothing. His attendants, who were all Chinese, 
 wore their native costume. Mr. Quanahu, like most 
 foreigners who settle in the country, had taken to him- 
 self a Mexican wife, a genteel pretty -looking woman. 
 During the evening, this lady, with a number of her 
 young female friends, took their seats at one of the 
 refreshment tables, and seemed to enjoy themselves 
 mightily over their wine, cakes, ice-cream, and dulces ; 
 while Mr. Quanahu and his Chinese waiters supplied 
 their wants as carefully as those of any of his guests. 
 
 February 1st. Acapulco has one of the finest har- 
 bors in the world. It is perfectly land-locked, and may 
 be entered with ease by two passes. The most direct 
 is by the Boca Chica, between the points of Pilar and 
 Grifo, and is from 250 to 280 yards in width. The 
 other is between the Isla de la Roqueta and the Pun- 
 
500 GUAYMAS TO 
 
 ta de la Bruxa, a mile and a half in width. The hills 
 which encompass the bay, rise abruptly; hence the 
 water is very deep, and ships of the largest burden 
 may approach within a few yards of the shore. A 
 thousand vessels might lie within the harbor, and be 
 amply protected against any wind. A stranger ap- 
 proaching the town by land, except just opposite the 
 entrance, would imagine that he saw before him a 
 placid mountain lake, rather than an arm of the sea. 
 So completely inclosed is the town with high hills 
 immediately behind it, that it enjoys little benefit from 
 its proximity to the sea. On the western sMe, the bay 
 is separated from the ocean by a narrow isthmus, about 
 four hundred yards in width, where, it is said, nature 
 intended forming a third entrance, but this has never 
 been accomplished. One of the enterprising governors 
 of Acapulco conceiving the idea of completing what 
 nature had begun, actually caused an opening to be 
 made through the mountain, which, as it answers the 
 purpose of admitting the air, is acknowledged to be of 
 essential service. This opening is called " U Abra de 
 San Nicolas. 
 
 At the extreme point of the town commanding the 
 entrance to the bay, is the Castle of San Carlos, a for- 
 midable looking fortress. It is built of large blocks of 
 stone, and is surrounded by a deep trench redoubt, 
 but, like every thing else in the country, is much out 
 of repair. The walls have been rent in several places 
 from top to bottom by earthquakes ; and where large 
 portions had fallen entirely, the stones had simply been 
 piled up again. Around this fortification I saw hun- 
 dreds of well dressed people taking an afternoon walk, 
 
. 
 
balf in width. The hills 
 bay, rise abruptly; hence the 
 ■ arid ships of '. Cretan 
 
 within a few yards of the shore. A 
 jssels might lie the harbor, 
 
 [j protected against any wind. A £ . ap- 
 
 proaching the -town by land, except just o the 
 
 . would that he saw before him a 
 
 :•. a i of the 1 
 
 rilh high 
 diately 
 its proximity 
 
 can by a narrow isthmus, about 
 I yards it is said, nal 
 
 third en this has m 
 
 plished. One g govei 
 
 ; 
 
 tused an opening to be 
 rough t - the 
 
 aowledgedto 1 
 : called " L Ahra de 
 
 he town comm the 
 
 -tie of San Carlos, a for- 
 rge bloc: 
 trench redoubt, 
 is much out 
 :pair. 1 n rent in s< : aces 
 
 q top to o ; and 
 
 tons had. fallen e le stones ha 
 
 d this fortii hun- 
 
 valk. 
 
a*- 
 
 
 31\j* 
 
SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA. 501 
 
 to enjoy the fresh sea air which a westerly breeze 
 brought in. East of this, a bay makes up, and adjoin- 
 ing it is a marsh, where large numbers of small fish are 
 left ; these, becoming putrid under a tropical sun, help 
 to engender the fevers which at certain seasons prevail 
 here. Bilious cholera morbus is also common ; and the 
 Mexicans from the interior, as well as the numerous 
 Americans who now stop here on their way to Califor- 
 nia, fall victims to these diseases. But these are not 
 all the troubles of the Acapulcans : earthquakes and 
 hurricanes often occur ; the dry and burning atmos- 
 phere is almost insupportable ; while noxious insects 
 and reptiles infest dwellings or assail the inhabitants 
 wherever they go. Baron Humboldt, who spent some 
 time at Acapulco, and who has investigated the cli- 
 matic influences of tropical America more than any 
 other writer, does not hesitate to give his opinion, as 
 the result of a comparison, that " the heat is more op- 
 pressive, the air more stagnant, and the existence of 
 man more painful at Acapulco, than at Yera Cruz."* 
 
 The town stands on a narrow strip of land less than 
 half a mile in width, on which there is but little soil. 
 The houses are built of stone as well as of adobe, and 
 covered with red tiles. Those of the better class, are 
 whitewashed, and have a neat appearance ; many have 
 little niches in their walls, in which is placed a crucifix 
 or image, in honor of some saint. I noticed many 
 houses in a state of dilapidation : there is also an old 
 ruined church, its walls and tower still standing, which 
 -is said to have been destroyed by an earthquake. A 
 
 * Political Essay on New Spain. Vol. IV. p. 145. 
 
502 GUAYMAS TO 
 
 new and much finer edifice has since, been built. In 
 the skirts of the town, and partly on the mountain's 
 side, is a class of houses built of poles, and having high 
 pointed roofs thatched with palm and cocoa-nut leaves, 
 that there may be a freer circulation of air ; some of 
 them are not inclosed, a few posts supporting the roof. 
 It was near one of these primitive dwellings, a little 
 elevated above the town, that I selected a spot from 
 which to take a sketch of the place. I had here a good 
 view of the whole town, its fine harbor, and the Castle 
 of San Carlos, in the distance. A rank tropical vege- 
 tation concealed a considerable portion of the town, 
 and extended nearly to the water's edge ; among the 
 varied foliage, the graceful cocoa-nut tree is most pro- 
 minent ; the palm, plantain, and banana, too, are thick- 
 ly dispersed throughout it. 
 
 The market is open every morning from daylight 
 until ten o'clock, in a corner of the Plaza. Fruits and 
 vegetables of every variety are spread out ; and the nu- 
 merous passengers from the Californian steamers, usual- 
 ly rush to the market to lay in a stock of the delicious 
 fruits there offered for sale. Change being scarce, 
 small cakes of soap are used instead, as in other parts 
 of Mexico. 
 
 It is surprising that this town has not become mo- 
 dernized, by the immense number of Americans and 
 others, who stop here on their way to California. Every 
 steamer remains for a couple of days to take in coal, 
 when the passengers generally land and endeavor to 
 spend some of their money, few as are the inducements 
 to do so. There are a number of hotels, one of which, 
 called the American, is kept by a German, and is any 
 
SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA. 503 
 
 thing but what its name imports, both in appearance 
 and the character of its company. The name attracts 
 thousands, although the house kept by the Chinaman, 
 called the Canton Hotel, is altogether superior in ac- 
 commodations. One reason why the place does not 
 improve, is, that no encouragement is given to foreign- 
 ers to settle here, but quite the contrary. The gov- 
 ernment is jealous of them ; and from what I heard and 
 saw of the conduct of my countrymen, I fear it had too 
 good cause to be so. 
 
 Acapulco owed its former importance to its com- 
 merce with the East Indies through the Phillippine 
 Islands. This commerce was limited to a single ship 
 of large burden, whose cargo was estimated to be 
 worth from £300,000 to £400,000 sterling. When 
 the news reached Mexico that she was off the coast, 
 the merchants crowded to Acapulco from all parts. 
 The exports from Mexico consisted of silver, cochineal, 
 cocoa, wine, oil, and Spanish wool. The imports were 
 chiefly China silks, India muslins and cottons, spices 
 and aromatics, jewelry, and other articles of luxury 
 and taste. 
 
 February 2d. The mail steamer "Oregon" and 
 the propeller " Monumental City " arrived this morn- 
 ing from Panama for San Francisco. The former had 
 four hundred and seventy-two passengers, the latter 
 four hundred and fifty. After examining the latter, 
 and finding her very crowded and filthy, I took a boat 
 and boarded the Oregon. She too was crowded, but 
 was clean and in excellent order. Captain Pierson, on 
 my stating to him my position as a government officer 
 charged with important duties, consented to take me, 
 
504 GUAYMAS TO 
 
 if I would put up with such accommodations as he had 
 to offer. Every place was filled, even to the tables 
 and floors of the cabins. The decks, too, had been 
 monopolized ; and the only place he could give me to 
 sleep in was a hammock suspended in the rigging 
 eight or ten feet above the deck. As the weather was 
 exceedingly hot, I gladly accepted the accommodation. 
 Returning to the shore, I hastily packed up my lug- 
 gage, and was again on board the steamer at 3 o'clock 
 p. m. At four we put to sea with a light wind. 
 
 February 3d-8th. At sea. Moderate winds from 
 the north, continued during these six days. When off 
 Cape St. Lucas, the weather suddenly changed, becom- 
 ing so cool that I was obliged to give up my aerSil 
 sleeping place. By close stowing, room was made for 
 me on the floor of the lower cabin, where I remained 
 the rest of the voyage. I was also obliged to change 
 all my clothing, and substitute thick flannels and an 
 overcoat ; noth withstanding which, I had an attack of 
 fever and ague. There was a good deal of sickness 
 on board, chiefly fevers. Some had contracted disease 
 from exposure when crossing the Isthmus of Panama, 
 others by imprudence in eating fruit. A passenger 
 from Cornwall, England, died and was launched into 
 the sea, the burial service being first read by a Metho- 
 dist minister. Passed a whaleman, the ship Carlton 
 from New Bedford, sixteen months out. She sent her 
 boat to us with a present of a large turtle, and requested 
 some newspapers in return. A lot was accordingly 
 contributed by the passengers, and sent to her. This 
 is considered a good whaling ground, and we noticed 
 many of these monsters of the deep sporting around us. 
 
SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA. 505 
 
 The character of the coast, whenever we were near 
 enough to see it, was much the same as that from 
 Mazatlan to Acapulco. Barren and rugged mountains 
 rose abruptly from the sea, exhibiting a most dreary 
 and forbidding aspect. 
 
 February 9th. We entered the bay of San Diego 
 last night, about 11 o'clock. I was landed by a boat 
 at the Playa, and took lodgings at a small house near 
 the beach. This place is situated just within Point 
 Loma, and is about a mile from the sea. The steamers 
 merely run in and leave the mail. Sometimes they are 
 obliged to take in a supply of coal to enable them to 
 reach San Francisco, still nearly six hundred miles dis- 
 tant. I had now made a sea voyage of 1300 miles from 
 Guaymas to Acapulco, and of 2000 miles from the lat- 
 ter place to San Diego. The first trip occupied twenty- 
 six days including stops ; the latter but five days. 
 
 After breakfast I procured a wagon to take me and 
 my baggage to the town of San Diego, five miles up 
 the bay. Here I learned that the surveying parties 
 from the Gila had preceded me, and were three miles 
 farther up at a small settlement. Continuing my ride, 
 I reached the village at 10 o'clock, where I was first 
 met by my excellent friend Colonel Craig, commander 
 of our escort. He informed me that they had felt much 
 anxiety on my account, as nothing had been heard 
 from me after I left Santa Cruz about the 1st October; 
 and fears were entertained that we had all been cut 
 off by the Indians. No word had been heard from 
 Dr. Webb and his party, which left me at Ures on the 
 16th December. The parties under Mr. Gray and 
 Lieutenant Whipple had arrived on the 10th of January. 
 
506 GUAYMAS TO SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA. 
 
 They were compelled to suspend the survey of the 
 Gila about sixty miles from its mouth, in consequence 
 of shortness of provisions. They then hurried through 
 to the Colorado, and thence across the desert to San 
 Diego. All were in good health, though they had 
 suffered some hardships like the rest of us. Thomas 
 Harper, one of Lieutenant Whipple's party, was 
 drowned in the Colorado. 
 
 END OP VOL. I. 
 
CONTENTS OF SECOND VOLUME. 
 
 FOURTH DIVISION. 
 
 JOUENEYS AND INCIDENTS IN CALIFOENIA. 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 SAN DIEGO TO NAPA VALLEY. 
 
 I 
 
 Arrival of Dr. Webb and his party — Dr. Webb's report of his journey — 
 State of the Survey — Reduction of the Commission — Advance of wages 
 — Diegeno Indians — H'hana Indians — Leave for San Francisco — Its fine 
 harbor — Extensive commerce — Great activity and enterprise of its peo- 
 ple — Origin of its name — Contrast between the wants of the Californians 
 in 1170 and 1850 — Trip to the Geysers — Benicia — Application to Gen. 
 Hitchcock for an escort to the Commission on its journey back — Yal- 
 lejo — Napa village — Napa valley — Its beauty and fertility — Mr. Yaunt 
 — His history — Red-wood trees — Their great height — Enormous yield 
 of vegetables — Thermal springs 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, AND RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 Mount Helena — Eussian inscription — Digger Indians — Dwellings — Mode 
 of fishing — Dress — Pass the mountains — Meet bear hunters — Mode of 
 cooking without utensils — Pluton River — The Geysers — Description of 
 
IV CONTENTS. 
 
 PAG3 
 
 these phenomena — Effect of the water on wood — Extent of volcanic 
 action — Return to camp — Abundance of grizzly bears — Recross the 
 mountains — Return through Napa valley — Visit to the Obsidian hills 
 — Extensive use of this material by the Indians — Return to San Fran- 
 cisco. . • 27 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 THE QUICKSILVER MINES OF NEW ALMADEN. 
 
 Leave San Francisco — San Jose valley — Fertility of the soil — Mission of 
 Santa Clara — San Jose — New Almaden — Quicksilver mine — Mode of 
 extracting the ore — Large tanks of quicksilver — Account of the quick- 
 silver mines of Spain — Production of this metal in all parts of the 
 world — Situation of the New Almaden mine — Descent into it — How 
 worked — Laborers — Extent of the mine— Effect of the mercury on 
 laborers — History of the mine — Return to San Francisco — Captain Sut- 
 ter — His history 53 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO SAN DIEGO. 
 
 Leave San Francisco — Monterey — Its harbor — Society — Californian ladies 
 — Father Juniper Serro's account of Monterey in 1770 — Visit to the 
 Mission of San Carlos at Carmel — Father Garces' visit in 1777 — Leave 
 Monterey — Point Conception — San Pedro — Visit to Los Angeles — Rich 
 prairies — Large herds of cattle — Vineyards and wines — Indians of the 
 Missions — Mission of San Gabriel — Return to San Pedro — Craw fish — 
 Arrival at San Diego — Preparations for return to El Paso — Engage Mr. 
 Leroux as guide — Trip to Los Coronados — Description of these islands 
 — Sea lions — Climate of San Diego — Visit to the Mission of San Luis 
 Rey — Extensive buildings — Fine valley — Kechi Indians — History of 
 Father Peyri — Description of the harbor of San Diego — Viscaino's ac- 
 count of San Diego in 1602 — Father Juniper Serro's account in 1769 — 
 Mission of San Diego — Picturesque situation — Fine lands — Olive trees 
 Society of San Diego — Initial Point and monument on the Pacific. . . 71 
 
CONTENTS. V 
 
 FIFTH DIVISION. 
 
 SAN DIEGO TO EL PASO, ALONG THE GILA. 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 SAN DIEGO TO ALAMO MUCHO. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Preparations for the journey to El Paso — Leave San Diego — Accident to 
 "wagon — Snook's rancho — San Pasqual — Gen. Kearney's battle at this 
 place — Indian village — San Pasqual mountain — Difficult ascent — Reach 
 camp at Santa Isabel — Deficiency of transportation — Leroux despatched 
 for another wagon — Indians of Santa Isabel — A Mormon arrives with 
 a wagon — List of return party — Journey resumed — Luxuriant valley — 
 San Felipe — Indians — Their mode of life — Narrow mountain pass — 
 Vallecita — Desert appearance — Carrizo creek — Increased barrenness — 
 Intense heat — Mules run away — Skeletons and carcasses of animals — 
 Immense destruction of sheep — Utter desolation — Wagon upset — Sack- 
 et's well — Dig for water— ^-Meet Lieut. Sweeney in pursuit of deserters 
 from Fort Yuma — Arrival of bearer of despatches — Alamo Mucho. . . 109 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 ALAMO MUCHO TO FORT YUMA. 
 
 The Desert — Dry basin — " New River " — Alarming news from the Train — 
 Colonel Craig's encounter with the deserters from Fort Yuma — Report 
 of Sergeant Quin — Dr. "Webb returns in search of Colonel Craig and 
 Sergeant Bale — Loss of wagons on the desert — Great heat — Return of 
 party with the body of Colonel Craig — Sergeant Bale's return — Farther 
 particulars of the encounter with the deserters — Burial of Colonel Craig 
 Word sent to San Diego — Prompt action of Colonel Magruder — Arrest 
 of the murderers by Indians, and their execution — Colonel Craig's char- 
 acter and services — March resumed — Cooke's well — Colorado river — 
 Banks washed away — A passage cut through the woods — Arrival at 
 Fort Yuma — Depredations by the Yuma Indians on the camp at night 
 — Unsuccessful pursuit — Lieut. Whipple commences crossing the Colo- 
 rado 13? 
 
VI CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 FORT YUMA AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Crossing of the Colorado continued — Description of Fort Yuma — The Colo- 
 rado and Gila rivers — The adjacent country — Rich alluvial bottoms — 
 Facility of irrigation — Ruins of the old Spanish Missions — Difficulty of 
 supplying Fort Yuma — Plan for surveying the head waters of the Gulf 
 of California — Frustrated by Colonel Graham— Discovery of the Colo- 
 rado in 1540 by Alarchon — Later voyages — Difficulties in navigating 
 the Colorado — Attempt of a steamer to ascend the river — Its velocity 
 and height — Fort Defiance — Massacre of Dr. Langdon and his party by 
 the Yumas — Indians of the Colorado — Early tribes not identified — The 
 Yumas — Cocopas — Mohavis — Extent of Alarchon's voyage in 1542 — 
 Fathers Kino, Font, and Garces 156 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 FORT YUMA TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES. 
 
 Leave Fort Yuma — Absence of grass along the Gila — Petahaya or Giant 
 Cereus — Gila trout — Meet the surveying party — Inscribed rocks — Ex- 
 cessive heat — Night marches — Wagons found — How caches are made — 
 Particulars of the murder of Mr. Oatman and his wife — Basin of the 
 Gila — More sculptured rocks — Cross the Jornada — Great bend of the 
 river — Another desert — Toilsome march — Reach the Coco-Maricopa 
 villages 185 
 
 CHAPTER XXX. 
 
 THE COCO-MARICOPA AND THE PIMO INDIANS. 
 
 Visit from the Coco-Maricopa Indians — Camp removed to the banks of the 
 Gila — The river dry, and no grass — War party — Return to our first 
 camp — Traffic with these Indians — Farther accounts of the Oatman 
 family — Francisco, the Maricopa interpreter — Feeding the tribe — Visit 
 from the Pimos — Religious notions of these tribes — Their manners and 
 customs — Agriculture — Art of spinning and weaving — Manufactures of 
 cotton — Pottery — Basket-work — Dress — Their attempts at collecting 
 zoological specimens — Villages — Houses and mode of building — Store 
 houses — Horses and cattle 213 
 
CONTENTS. Vll 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI. 
 
 AT THE COCO-MAEICOPA AND PDMO TILLAGES. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Journey to the river Salinas — Its rich bottom-lands — Large stream — Pimo 
 Indians — Ruined buildings — Mounds — Broken pottery — Traces of irri- 
 gating canals — Ancient population probably large — Return towards 
 the Pimo villages — Are taken for Apaches — Arrival at camp — Arrival 
 of Lieutenant "Whipple — Survey of the Gila completed — Trade re- 
 opened with the Coco-Maricopas — Presents — Tribe of Cawenas — Re- 
 move to the Pimo villages — Cola Azul and the Pimos — Traffic with 
 them — Conference — Giving presents — Arrival of Mexican traders — 
 Return of Lieutenant Paige with the escort — Leave the villages. . . 239 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIL 
 
 INDIANS OF THE GILA, AND THE CASAS GEANDES. 
 
 History of the Coco-Maricopas and Pimos — Origin of their semi-civilization 
 — Difference of languages — Their number — Physical peculiarities — 
 Deserving the attention of Christians and philanthropists — Early ac- 
 counts of these Indians — First described by Father Kino in 1697 — ; 
 Sedelmayer's visit to them in 1*744 — Father Font's in 1*775 — Visit to the 
 Casas Grandes of the Gila — Description of these ruins — Evidences of a 
 former large population — Irrigating canals — Broken pottery — Father 
 Font's description of these buildings — Singular error in relation to their 
 dimensions — Kino and Mangi's visit to them in 1694 — Notion of the 
 Aztec origin of these buildings not well founded — Excessive heat. . . 261 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIH. 
 
 CASAS GEANDES TO SANTA CEUZ. 
 
 Leave the Gila — Terrific storm on the desert — Encounter a party of Ameri- 
 cans at midnight — Stopped by the darkness — Unpleasant situation — 
 Pack mules and cattle missing — Picacho mountain — Vegetation of the 
 desert — Second night's march — Arrival at Tucson — General Blanco — 
 Arrival of Mexican troops — Campaign against the Apaches — Meet Mr. 
 Coons with 14,000 sheep — His disasters — Visit from General Blanco 
 
Vlll CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 and his officers — Repairs on wagons — Tucson and its valley — Meteorite 
 San Xavier del Bac — Beautiful church — Spanish and Anglo-Saxon colo- 
 nization — Incessant rains — Presidio of Tubac — Meet Inez Gonzales the 
 captive girl — Her sad fate — Uncertainty of irrigated lands — California 
 emigrants — Calabasa — Picturesque valley — Tumacacori — San Lazaro 
 — More emigrants — Reach Santa Cruz 285 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 
 SANTA CRUZ TO THE PRESIDIO OF JANOS. 
 
 Shoeing mules and repairing wagons at Santa Cruz — Standing guard — Sad 
 fate of Inez Gonzales — Sickness of the town — Boldness of the Apaches 
 and their constant inroads — Wretched state of the people — Leave Santa 
 Cruz — Country assumes a new aspect — Rio San Pedro — Enter the 
 mountains — Agua Prieta — Prepare for a fight — False alarm — Meet 
 Colonel Garcia with Mexican troops — Enter Guadalupe Pass — "Wagon 
 upset — Description of the country — A better route suggested — Take 
 the Janos road — More emigrants and their encounter with a bear — Two 
 human bodies found — Open country — Reach Janos 314 
 
 CHAPTER XXXV. 
 
 JANOS TO COKEELITOS, AND VISIT TO CASAS GKANDES. 
 
 Janos, an old military post — Its decline — Aid a party of American emi- 
 grants — A Thomsonian doctor — Difficulty in fording the Casas Grandes 
 river — Arrival at Correlitos — Smelting works — Unhealthiness of the 
 people — Barranca Colorado — Visit to the town of Casas Grandes — Ex- 
 tensive ruins — Resemblance to those on the Gila — Fertile valley — The 
 river and its tributaries — Modern town — Return to Correlitos. . . . 339 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVI. 
 
 CORRELITOS TO EL PASO. 
 
 Leave Correlitos — Visit the silver mines of Messrs. Flotte and Zuloaga — 
 Attempt of a peon to escape — Rio Santa Maria— Recent fight of Ameri- 
 
CONTENTS. IX 
 
 PAQH 
 
 cans with the Apaches here — Broad open plains — Continued rain — The 
 Salado — The Medanos or Sand Hills — Painful night's march — Samala- 
 yuca — Arrival at El Paso del Norte 366 
 
 SIXTH DIVISION. 
 
 EL PASO TO THE GULP OF MEXICO. 
 CHAPTER XXXVII. 
 
 INCIDENTS AT EL PASO DEL NORTE. 
 
 Preparations for completing the Survey of the southern boundary of New 
 Mexico — Withdrawal of the military from El Paso — Importance of El 
 Paso as a military post — Its business — Encroachments of the Apaches 
 — Depredations of the Comanches — Suggestions for a better protection 
 of the frontier — Colonel Langberg — Visit to Fort Fillmore — The Me- 
 silla valley — Visit to the Organ mountains — Silver mines — Grand 
 scenery — Return — Bracito and its battle-field — Preparations for leaving 
 El Paso — Mail party attacked by the Comanches — Decide to go by way 
 of Chihuahua — Laxity of the Mexican custom house — Departure of 
 Lieutenant Whipple and party for the Gila — Organization of parties. 381 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVIII. 
 
 EL PASO TO CHIHUAHUA. 
 
 Departure from El Paso — Accident at the start — Farewell to friends — San 
 Eleazario — Fording the Rio Grande — Wagon upset — Guadalupe — As- 
 cend the table-land — Grassy plains, and open country — Ojo de Lucero 
 — Laguna de los Patos — Country overflowed — Wagon mired — More 
 accidents — Carrizal — Ojo Caliente — Rio Carmen — Encounter with the 
 Apaches — A man killed — Animals lost — Ojo de Callejo — Mexican sol- 
 diers — Precautions to avoid a surprise — Laguna de Encinillas — El 
 Penol — El Sauz — Rio Sacramento — Battlefield — Notice of the battle 
 — Arrival at Chihuahua 401 
 
X CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIX. 
 
 CHIHUAHUA AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Repairs on wagons — Mr. Flotte and his persecutions — The road infected by 
 Comanche Indians — Guard hired — General Trias — Governor Cordero 
 — A dinner and ball — Ladies of Chihuahua — Dinner to General Trias 
 — Obtain important documents relating to the boundary — Description 
 of Chihuahua — Causes of its decline — Its mines — The expulsion of the 
 Spaniards — Labors of the Jesuits — Aqueduct — The Cathedral — Mine of 
 Santa Eulalia — Casa de Moneda — Commerce — How carried on — Agri- 
 cultural products — Alfalfa and its value — Heaps of scoria — Grazing 
 lands — The plateau — Immense herds of cattle — -Height of the table 
 land — Climate — Diminutive dogs 424 
 
 CHAPTER XL. 
 
 CHIHUAHUA TO THE KIO FLORIDO. 
 
 Departure from Chihuahua — Additional escort — Mr. Flotte with his family 
 join us — Bachimba — Santa Cruz — Grist mill — Smelting works — Saucil- 
 lo — Attack of the Comanches — La Cruz; — Las Garz;as — Ford the Con- 
 chas — Santa Rosalia — Its defences erected against the Americans dur- 
 ing the war — Ramada — Rio Florido — Guajuquilla — Fertile valley — 
 Monument to our Lady of Guadalupe — Search for meteorites — Hacien- 
 da — Blanca — Wagon upset in an acequia — Hacienda de Concepcion — 
 Curious mass of meteoric iron — Account of meteorites in the vicinity — 
 Hacienda del Rio Florido 442 
 
 CHAPTER XLI. 
 
 EIO FLORIDO TO PARKAS. 
 
 A mule kidnapped — La Noria — Cerro Gordo — Enter the State of Durango 
 — Another escort — Miserable condition of the Mexican soldiers — Recent 
 battle here with the Comanches — La Zarca — Vast herds of cattle and 
 horses — Scarcity of wood — Droves of horses — San Pedro del Gallo — 
 Rio Nasas — Fertile valley — Culture of cotton — Corn-fields without irri- 
 gation — La Noria de Pedrecina — Silver mines — Cuencame — Another 
 
CONTENTS. XI 
 
 PAGE 
 
 escort of civilians — La Noria Curena — Rio Buenaval — Pozo Calvo — 
 Depredations of the Comanches — Alamo de Parras — Viesca mines — 
 La Pen a — Break down — Cold weather — El Pozo — Recent incursion of 
 Indians — Reach Parras. 465 
 
 CHAPTER XLII. 
 
 PARRAS 10 SALTILLO. 
 
 Parras — Its vineyards — Numerous springs — Orchards — Plantations of the 
 Agave — Extent of its cultivation — Pulque — Hacienda Arriba — Its ex- 
 tensive wine vaults and granaries — Visit to the churches — The Alame- 
 da — Departure from Parras — The Hacienda Abajo — Don Manuel de 
 Ibarra and General "Wool — Cienega Grande — Ceguin — Vequeria — 
 Gigantic Yuccas — Hacienda de Patos — Don Jacobo Sanchez — His large 
 estates — Claims for indemnification on the United States — Village of 
 Peons — Encantada — Arrival of a courier with despatches from Wash- 
 ington — Buena Vista — The Barrancas — Ramble over the battlefield — 
 Relics found — Reach Saltillo — No work on a feast day — Fine church — 
 Cotton factories — Dr. Hewison — Economical use of water 482 
 
 CHAPTER XLIII. 
 
 SALTILLO TO RINGGOLD BARRACKS. 
 
 Leave Saltillo — Accident at the start — Enter the Rinconada Pass — A uight 
 in the defile — Los Muertos — Ampudia's redoubt — Magnificent scenery 
 — Hacienda of the Rinconada — Sierra Mitra — Santa Catarina — Suburbs 
 of Monterey — Loma de Independencia— Arrival at Monterey — Pronun- 
 ciamentos — Visit the Bishop's palace — Beautiful valley — The citadel — 
 Prosperity of the city — Its climate — Elevation — Departure — Marin — 
 Ramos — Carrizitos — Dense chapporal — Miss the road — Cerralvo — Pun- 
 tiagudo — Bad road — Mier — Trade for serapes — Texan Mier expedition 
 — Character of the Rio Grande above Mier — Ascent of a steamboat to 
 Loredo — Ancient oyster beds — Rio San Juan — Mexican brigade — Ca- 
 margo — Cross the Rio Grande — Arrival at Ringgold barracks. . . . 499 
 
 CHAPTER XLIV. 
 
 RINGGOLD BARRACKS TO CORPUS CHRISTI. 
 
 Rio Grande surveying parties — State of the Survey — Despatches from 
 Washington — Proviso affixed by Congress to the appropriation for 
 
Xll CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 the Commission — Letter of the Hon. Alex. H. H. Stuart, Secretary of 
 the Interior — Money withheld — Compelled to disband the Commission 
 and return home — Unfortunate situation of the party — Send the 
 train and government property to San Antonio — Leave for the coast 
 — The grassy prairies of Texas — San Colorado — Wells at Santa Teresa 
 — Ravages of the Comanches — Night alarm from mustangs — Abun- 
 dance of deer and antelope — Los Olmos — Immense drove of mustangs 
 — Exciting race over the prairie — Horse lost — The prairie on fire — Rio 
 San Francisco — Agua Dulce — Arrival at Corpus Christi 513 
 
 CHAPTER XLV. 
 
 CORPUS CHRISTI TO WASHINGTON. 
 
 Corpus Christi — Its fine position — Geographical features of the country — 
 Nueces bay and river — A norther — Its effects on the fish in the lagu- 
 nas — Leave Corpus Christi in an open boat — Shallow bays and lagunas 
 of the Gulf — Vast numbers of water fowl — Bays of Aransas and Espiri- 
 tu Santo — Reach Decrow's Point — Matagorda bay and its commerce — 
 Embark for New Orleans — Galveston — Arrival at New Orleans — Voy- 
 age up the Mississippi, and by way of Louisville, Cincinnati, Cleveland, 
 Buffalo, and Albany to Providence — Arrival at home — Proceed to "Wash- 
 ington • 52S 
 
 Results of the Labors of the Boundary Commission. 539 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 The Natural history of the regions traversed — Animal life on the deserts 
 — Quadrupeds — Reptiles, their great variety and number — Peculiar 
 vegetation of the deserts — The "prairie dog" and its habits — The an- 
 telope, etc 555 
 
 ADAPTATION OF THE COUNTRY FOR A RAILWAY. 
 
 Brief remarks on the geography of the countries traversed by the Boun- 
 dary Commission, and upon its adaptation for a railroad connecting the 
 Atlantic with the Pacific 565 
 
CONTENTS. Xlll 
 
 PAGE 
 
 INTRODUCTION OF CAMELS. 
 
 Remarks on the introduction of Camels as a means of transportation on 
 the prairies and deserts of the interior . 5*76 
 
 Appendices 585 
 
 Index. 607 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS TO SECOND VOLUME. 
 
 WOOD-CUTS. 
 
 No. Page 
 
 1. Interior of Hut of California Indians, . . . .30 
 
 2. Summer Huts of the " " .... 31 
 
 3. Figure cut in Wood, 32 
 
 4. California Indians catching Salmon, . . . . 33 
 
 5. " " Men, 34 
 
 6. " " Women, 34 
 
 7. Geysers, Pluton Eiver, California, 42 
 
 8. Golden Gate. Entrance to San Francisco, . . . 54 
 
 9. Quicksilver Furnaces, New Almaden, California, . . 58 
 
 10. Monterey, California, 72 
 
 11. Mission of San. Luis Eey, California, 90 
 
 12. San Diego, California, 95 
 
 13. Mission of San Diego, California, 103 
 
 14. Monument. Initial Point on the Pacific, .. . . 105 
 
 15. Well at Alamo Mucho, on the Desert, . . . .134 
 
 16. Junction of the Gila and Colorado Eivers, . . . 158 
 
 17. Pagoda Mountain, North of the Eiver Gila, . . . 188 
 
 18. Petahaya, or Giant Cereus, 189 
 
 19. Inscribed Eooks. Eiver Gila, 196 
 
 20. " " " 196 
 
 21. " " " 196 
 
XVI ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 No. Page 
 
 22. Basin of the Bivee Gila, 205 
 
 23. Inscribed Books. Bivee Gila, 206 
 
 24. " " " 206 
 
 25. " " " ...... 206 
 
 26. Bimo Flute and Bunch of Deees' Hoofs, . . . 223 
 
 27. Bimo Indian Weaving, 225 
 
 28. Baskets and Botteet of the Bimos and Ooco-Maeioopas, 227 
 
 29. Skin Bough, 228 
 
 30. Mode of Consteuoting "Wigwams, 234 
 
 31. Village of the Coco-Maeicopa Indians, .... 235 
 
 32. Inteeioe of a Stoee-House. Bimo and Coco-Maeicopa, . 236 
 
 33. Indian Amusements, Shooting at the Betahata, . . 238 
 
 34. Bimo Man and Woman, 238 
 
 35. Buins on the Salinas, 246 
 
 36. Cultivated Fields and Villages of the Bimo Indians, . 248 
 
 37. Bimo and Coco-Maeicopa Women, 253 
 
 38. Feagments of Ancient Botteet. Bivees Gila and Salinas, 255 
 
 39. Hieeogltphio on Wall of Casas Geandes, . . . 273 
 
 40. Elevation of the Casas Geandes, Bivee Gila, . . . 276 
 
 41. Geound Blan of " " 276 
 
 42. Bioaoho on the Tucson Deseet, 290 
 
 43. Meteoeite seen at Tucson, 298 
 
 44. " " the Hacienda de Conception, . . 298 
 
 45. Beesidio of Janos, Chihuahua, 340 
 
 46. Buins at Casas Geandes, Chihuahua, 348 
 
 47. " " " .... 348 
 
 48. Baet of Geound Blan of Casas Geandes, Chihuahua, . 357 
 
 49. Geound Blan of one of the Buined Buildings at Casas 
 
 Geandes, 359 
 
 50. Feagments of Ancient Fotteey feom Casas Geandes, Chi- 
 
 huahua, . . 360 
 
 51. " " " 360 
 
 52. Belics found at Casas Geandes, Chihuahua, . . . 362 
 
 53. Deseet Blain, View feom the Salado, Chihuahua, . . 372 
 
 54. Militaet Bost, El Baso, Texas, 383 
 
 55. Oegan Mountains, seen feom the Bio Geande, . . . 393 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS. XV1J 
 
 No. Page 
 
 56. Apache Indians Attacking the Teain and Paety, . 412 
 
 57. Caebying "Wood to Maeket, Chihuahua . . . . 422 
 
 58. Aqueduct and Church op Santa Eita, Chihuahua, . 4-tl 
 
 59. Gigantic Yucca Teee, Paeeas, 491 
 
 60. Stampede by "Wild Hoeses on the Plains of Texas, . 523 
 
 LITHOGRAPHS. 
 
 No. 
 
 1. Ruins at Casas Geandes, Chihuahua, (to face title-page.) 
 
 2. Geysees, Pluton Eivee, Califoenia, .... 40 
 
 3. " " " 40 
 
 4. Napa Valley feom the Obsidian Hills, Califoenia, . 50 
 
 5. Ascent to the Quioksilveb Mine, New Almaden, . . 62 
 
 6. View on the Rivee Gila, Big Hoen Mountain, . . 198 
 
 7. Casas Geandes, Rivee Gila, 274 
 
 8. Ruins at Casas Geandes, Chihuahua, .... 364 
 
 9. Oegan Mountains, New Mexico, 392 
 
 10. Foet Yuma, Junction of the Glla and Coloeado Rivees, 
 
 (to face title-page, vol. 1.) 
 
S - 
 
 RUINS AT 
 
FOUETH DIVISION. 
 
 JOUBNEYS AND INCIDENTS IN CALIFOBNIA. 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 SAN DIEGO TO NAPA VALLEY. 
 
 Arrival of Dr. "Webb and his party — Dr. "Webb's report of bis journey — 
 State of tbe survey — Reduction of the Commission — Advance of wages 
 — Diegeno Indians — H'hana Indians — Leave for San Francisco — Its fine 
 harbor — Extensive commerce — Great activity and enterprise of its peo- 
 ple — Origin of its name — Contrast between the wants of the Californi- 
 ans in 1770 and 1850 — Trip to the Geysers — Benicia — Application to 
 Gen. Hitchcock for an escort to the Commission on its journey back — 
 Vallejo — Napa village — Napa valley — Its beauty and fertility — Mr 
 Yaunt — His history — Eed-wood trees — Their great height — Enormous 
 yield of vegetables — Thermal springs. 
 
 On the 11th February, Dr. Webb, with his party, 
 reached San Diego, most of them on foot. They 
 had experienced great privations, and had lost the 
 larger portion of their animals by famine. The 
 following letter from Dr. Webb shows the character 
 of his journey. 
 
 "San Diego, California, February 14, 1852. 
 
 " Sir : I have the honor to announce that I arrived 
 here with the little party under my direction on the 
 
 VOL. II. — 1 
 
I SAN DIEGO TO 
 
 11th instant, all in good health and spirits, notwith- 
 standing we had to encounter numerous difficulties, 
 undergo some hardships, endure some privations — to 
 be exposed to the hostile attacks and depredations of 
 Indians, and subjected to the loss of most of our ani- 
 mals and much of our clothing, &c, and were necessa- 
 rily placed on short allowance — compelled to walk a 
 large portion of the distance, and be our own escort 
 and night guard. 
 
 " The mail closes so very soon, that it is impossible 
 for me to render, in detail, a report of the trip at this 
 time. I can only state, in brief, that the party con- 
 sisted of twelve individuals and twenty-seven riding 
 and pack-mules. 
 
 " The animals, which were mostly feeble at the 
 outset, and consequently not suited for such a journey, 
 soon gave convincing proofs that they could not hold 
 out, and daily, after leaving the Pimo villages, be- 
 came reduced in number — sinking under the combined 
 influence of excessive heat, deficiency of grazing, and 
 destitution of water. Of the twenty-seven, but three 
 were in a suitable condition to be brought in ; five 
 more I left at Williams's rancho, about fifty miles dis- 
 tant, to recruit ; and the remainder sank under their 
 loads at various places on the desert, and were necessa- 
 rily abandoned to their fate ; which was either to fall 
 into the hands of roving Indians, who, like so many 
 hungry vultures, were continually hovering around, 
 anxiously awaiting an opportunity to avail themselves 
 of any accident or misfortune that might occur, 
 whereby they could gain possession of any of our pro- 
 perty ; or should they elude the Indians, their fate most 
 
NAPA VALLEY. 6 
 
 inevitably was, in their enfeebled state, to become an 
 easy prey to the hungry wolves, which in great num- 
 bers were constantly prowling about, making night 
 hideous with their howlings ; and not unfrequently so 
 impatient were they to seize upon the poor animals, 
 that they could be seen skulking close to our camp in 
 broad daylight. 
 
 ''■ The loss of pack-mules of course occasioned a 
 sacrifice of much other property, as we had no relief 
 mules with us. Most of our cooking utensils were 
 dropped from time to time, at various places on the 
 route. We had also to cache all of our camp stools 
 and other furniture, some of our bedding, much cloth- 
 ing, books, papers, etc. Eventually, we were compelled 
 to abandon our tents : so that rain or shine, wet or 
 dry, we had to stop at the end of our day's journey in 
 the open air, without any means of protection by day 
 from the scorching heat of the sun ; and at night we 
 stretched out upon the ground, unsheltered from the 
 inclemency of the weather, and the cold searching 
 blasts and chilly atmosphere, though at mid-day the 
 dry, brain-burning heat, was almost too much to bear. 
 Soon after sunset, an icy feeling, nearly as intolerable, 
 would pervade us ; the variations between night and 
 day often amounting to sixty and seventy degrees of 
 temperature. 
 
 " Twelve days of the journey I walked, having 
 relinquished my animal for pack-mule purposes before 
 we reached the junction of the Gila and Colorado 
 Rivers. Subsequently, others followed the example ; 
 until at length but two retained possession of ani- 
 mals. 
 
4 SAN DIEGO TO 
 
 "We had no escort; and therefore, after walking 
 all day, we were obliged to take our turns at standing 
 guard at night. Our provisions became so diminished 
 in quantity as to compel me to put the whole party on 
 short allowance. We lived principally on meat, mush, 
 and. mutton, without any vegetables. But one sheep 
 (long, lank, raw-boned animals) was allowed to 
 twelve men for four days, and even then our last meat 
 was consumed a week before our arrival ; and we were 
 forced to deprive ourselves of a portion of our mush 
 to furnish food to our animals, owing to the entire 
 absence, for several days on our route, of all grass, 
 shrubs, and trees. 
 
 "Much is said by travellers respecting the desert 
 of Sahara ; but, in barrenness of verdure, destitution of 
 water, tremendous storms of sand, etc., etc., it is 
 doubtful if any tract of land can surpass the Jornada 
 which we crossed. Indeed much of this country, that 
 by those residing at a distance is imagined to be a 
 perfect paradise, is a sterile waste, utterly worthless 
 for any purpose than to constitute a barrier or natural 
 line of demarcation between two neighboring nations. 
 
 " Notwithstanding our many perils, privations, and 
 suffering, mostly attributable, when traced to the true 
 source, to our imperfect outfit at the Copper Mines, 
 from the negligence, wilfulness, or some other unjusti- 
 fiable cause on the part of those whose duty it was to 
 attend to the business ; notwithstanding the many 
 additional obstacles thrown in the way ; notwithstand- 
 ing the continued succession of disappointments which 
 we encountered in numerous shapes, and of varied 
 hue, where the doing or neglecting to do, depended 
 
NAPA VALLEY. 5 
 
 upon the will of man ; thanks to the protecting care of 
 a divine and overruling Providence, we escaped un- 
 harmed from the many dangers with which we were 
 surrounded, and the difficulties in which we were 
 involved, and have brought in our little party in the 
 enjoyment, as already observed, of good health and 
 spirits. 
 
 "I remain, sir, very respectfully, yours, 
 
 (Signed) THOMAS H. WEBB, 
 
 Eecretanj to Boundary Commission. 
 
 "Hon. J. R. Baetlett, 
 " Commissioner, etc. 11 
 
 The animals brought in by the several parties were 
 greatly reduced by their long and painful journey, 
 owing chiefly to their poor and scanty food along the 
 Gila, and from that river to the coast. They were now 
 placed in a grassy valley near the mission, some five or 
 six miles distant, where the feed was pretty good ; but 
 they were so completely broken down, that many 
 weeks would be necessary to recruit them. The sur- 
 veying parties during this time were engaged in re- 
 ducing their observations and in plotting their maps. 
 
 Although the entire boundary along the river Gila 
 was not completed, it was a source of peculiar satisfac- 
 tion to me that we had accomplished so much. It is 
 more than the most sanguine in the Commission 
 expected to perform in so short a space of time, sur- 
 rounded, as the operating parties were, with so many 
 serious impediments. To cross a wilderness, such as 
 it may in truth be called, from the Rio Grande to the 
 
6 SAN DIEGO TO 
 
 Pacific Ocean, a distance of more than eight hundred 
 miles, would at any time be a labor of difficulty. But 
 when this whole line is through a desolate region, with 
 a scanty supply of grass for the animals ; with large 
 tracts destitute of water, and no means of procuring 
 provisions; and furthermore, when nearly the entire 
 distance is invested by hostile Indians, the work is one 
 for the near completion of which we could not be too 
 thankful. The whole came through in good health, 
 and with the loss of but one man, Thomas Harper, an 
 attendant on instruments in Lieutenant Whipple's 
 party, who was unfortunately drowned whilst bathing 
 in the Colorado. The amount of public property lost 
 or abandoned on the journey was not large, and could 
 easily be replaced in this country. 
 
 During my short stay at San Diego, I was busily 
 occupied in paying off and reducing the Commission. 
 Several of the assistants desired to leave here, and the 
 larger portion of the mechanics and laborers. In fact, 
 I found it difficult to keep such as were necessary to 
 take care of the animals and other property, as well as 
 the cooks and servants needed to attend the several 
 messes. Wages were exceedingly high, and I was 
 compelled to advance the pay of all that remained to 
 the California rates, which were from fifty to eighty 
 dollars a month for servants, cooks, teamsters, and 
 herdsmen. After reducing the parties, and placing 
 those who remained in comfortable quarters (for the 
 weather was cold and wet), I made my arrangements 
 to go to San Francisco, in order to procure a new out- 
 fit of tents and camp equipage ; to have the instruments 
 repaired and put in order ; to lay in provisions for our 
 
NAPA VALLEY. i 
 
 return ; and to negotiate my drafts on the government 
 to meet these several expenditures, as well as to pay 
 the officers and men attached to the Commission. 
 
 No event that is worthy of mention occurred here, 
 except a visit from a band of Diegeno Indians. A 
 chief and several of his tribe were sent to me at my 
 request by a Californian gentleman. They were a mis- 
 erable, ill-looking set, with dark brown complexions 
 and emaciated bodies; and though the weather was 
 cold, they were but slightly clad. Articles of old and 
 cast-off clothing, such as a tattered shirt and panta- 
 loons, were all that the best could boast of. One, I 
 think the chief, had a piece of a horse blanket around 
 his cadaverous-looking body. I managed to get from 
 them a vocabulary of their language ; though I must 
 confess that, with the exception of the Apache, I never 
 found one so difficult to express, in consequence of the 
 gutturals and nasals with which it abounded. I finally 
 got the words so correct, that the Indians could recog- 
 nise them, and give me the Spanish equivalents. I 
 tried to write down some short sentences, but was 
 obliged to give up the attempt as unsuccessful. I could 
 not combine the words so as to be understood, in a 
 single instance. These Indians occupy the coast for 
 some fifty miles above, and about the same distance 
 below, San Diego, and extend about a hundred miles 
 into the interior. They are the same who were known 
 to the first settlers as the Comeya tribe. 
 
 I also found an Indian here from the Upper Sacra- 
 mento River. He had been taken prisoner by the 
 American troops about three years before, and was now 
 living with some of the officers. He was quick and 
 
• SAN DIEGO TO 
 
 intelligent, and answered promptly my questions rela- 
 tive to his tribe and country. I could not, however, 
 ascertain the precise locality of his people, which he 
 called the ECliana tribe — the iZ"a deep guttural. I got 
 from him a complete vocabulary of his language. 
 
 On the 24th of February, I embarked with several 
 officers of the Commission in the steamer Sea Bird, for 
 San Francisco. The boat stopped on the way at the 
 several ports of San Pedro, Santa Barbara, and Mon- 
 terey ; but as the weather was boisterous and attended 
 with rain, I did not land. On the evening of the 27th 
 we reached San Francisco. 
 
 To give an account of this wonderful city Avhich 
 has sprung into existence in the last four years, and 
 whose rapid growth and extraordinary prosperity have 
 astonished the world, is not my intention. No city on 
 the face of the globe has ever attained the position that 
 San Francisco has in the same period ; and it is yet 
 progressing. It is now almost the first in population 
 on the western coast of the American continent ; and 
 but a few years will elapse before it will surpass all the 
 rest. In point of commerce, the great ports of Europe 
 and on the Atlantic coast of the United States alone, 
 can vie with it. As the outlet of the principal and 
 almost only rivers of California, it will continue to 
 bear the same relation to the interior as New Orleans 
 and New York do to the United States east of the Rocky 
 Mountains. The harbor of San Francisco is one of the 
 most spacious in the world, easy of access, of a conve- 
 nient depth for anchorage, and protected from storms. 
 The city itself now presents a strange medley of build- 
 ings, from the rudest hovel and canvas tent to the ele- 
 
NAPA VALLEY. 9 
 
 gant mansion and the most substantial warehouses. 
 The former, however, are rapidly giving way to the 
 latter ; and now that bricks of a superior quality are 
 made here, and excellent building stone is found near 
 at hand, no one will think of putting up wooden build- 
 ings within the city. In the streets of San Francisco all is 
 bustle and confusion. Crowds are constantly passing and 
 repassing. The wharves are thickly lined with magnifi- 
 cent ships from every quarter of the globe, pouring in 
 their thousands of immigrants, and discharging their 
 valuable cargoes. The ocean steamers, each bearing from 
 five hundred to one thousand passengers, are weekly 
 arriving ; while the river boats, which take their daily 
 departure for the interior every morning and evening, 
 present the same moving crowds going and coming as 
 the Hudson River boats at New York. All go full ; and. 
 one is as much puzzled to find a spare seat or stool on 
 which to rest his weary limbs, as on board the excur- 
 sion boats from our Atlantic cities. The stages and 
 other means of conveyance are equally crowded. The 
 throng moves to and fro, from the city to the mines 
 and the interior, and thence back again to the city. 
 Go to the business streets, and the auctioneer's hammer 
 is heard at every turn, knocking off to the anxious 
 bidder every article of commerce. Stocks, gold mines, 
 ships, whole cargoes of merchandise, are bought and 
 sold with the same freedom as in the Royal Exchange 
 of London, the Bourse of Paris, or in Wall-street, New 
 York. There are customers for every thing, and an 
 ^abundance of gold to meet any purchase however large. 
 There is no project too great for the Californian of the 
 present day. He is ready for any undertaking, whether 
 
10 SAN DIEGO TO 
 
 it be to make a railroad to tlie Atlantic, to swallow up 
 Mexico, or invade the empire of Japan. New York is 
 now the first city on the American continent, and San 
 Francisco is destined ere long to be second. 
 
 San Francisco is said to have obtained its name in 
 the following manner: " When Father Juniper Serra 
 received his orders from the Visitant-general respecting 
 the names which he was to give to the new missions in 
 California, he observed that the name of the founder 
 of their order was not among them, and called the at- 
 tention of his superior to the fact, exclaiming, "Is 
 not our Father San Francisco to have a mission ? " to 
 which the Visitant-general replied, u If San Francisco 
 -desires a mission, let him show you a port, and he shall 
 have it." In the year 1769 an expedition was dis- 
 patched from San Diego, for the purpose of settling 
 Monterey. The expedition missed the port, but dis- 
 covered a much larger and finer bay further to the 
 •north, which had been till then unknown. The com- 
 mander of the expedition and his religious associates 
 •decided that this discovery must be the work of St. 
 Francis, and accordingly they gave his name to the 
 place, setting up a cross, and taking possession after the 
 usual manner.* 
 
 To show the striking contrast between the wants 
 of the zealous priests who colonized California in the 
 year 1770 and the Americans of 1850, I give another 
 quotation from a letter written by the same excellent 
 man to Father Palou. " As May made a year since I 
 received a letter from any Christian country, your Re- 
 
 * Palou. Vicla del Padre Fray Junipero Serra, Mexico, 1*787, p. 88. 
 
NAPA VALLEY. 11 
 
 verence will imagine how deficient we are in news : but 
 for all that, I only ask you and your companions, when 
 you can get an opportunity, to inform me what our 
 most holy Father the reigning Pope is called, that I 
 majr put his name in the canon of the mass ; also to 
 say if the canonization of the beatified Joseph Cuper- 
 tino, and Serafino de Asculi has taken place ; and if 
 there is any other beatified one, or saint, in order that 
 I may put them in the calendar, and pray to them ; 
 we having, it would appear, taken our leave of all 
 printed calendars. Tell me also, if it is true, that the 
 Indians have killed Father Joseph Soler in Sonora, and 
 how it happened ; and if there are any other friends 
 defunct, in order that I may commend them to God ; 
 with any thing else your Reverence may think fit to 
 communicate to a few poor hermits separated from 
 human society. We proceed to-morrow to celebrate 
 the feast of Corpus Christi (although in a very poor 
 manner), in order to scare away whatever imps there 
 possibly may be in this land." * 
 
 The Californians of our day, instead of asking for 
 information about beatified men or saints, in order to 
 put them on the calendar and pray to them, would 
 feel a much deeper interest in knowing the state of 
 political parties in the Atlantic States, or the prices of 
 stocks, of sugar, and whiskey ; and where one would 
 care to hear about the Pope of Rome, a hundred would 
 prefer news respecting the Emperor of China, f 
 
 * Palou. Vida de Fray Junipero Serra, p. 102. 
 f I have reference now to the interest felt in the present contest in 
 China between the rebel Tien-teh and the Tartar sovereign. 
 
12 SAN DIEGO TO 
 
 For three weeks after I arrived in San Francisco 
 it rained incessantly, confining me most of the time to 
 the house. The result was a great rise in the rivers, 
 so that the mining regions were laid under water, and 
 became impassable. The Sacramento was so swollen 
 as to inundate the city of the same name. This state 
 of things prevented me from visiting the interior, and 
 particularly the gold region. Having a couple of 
 weeks still to spare before our camp equipage would 
 be ready, I determined to avail myself of this brief 
 space in visiting some of. the many interesting objects 
 in which California abounds. To examine the gold 
 mines in so short a time with any satisfaction, seemed 
 impracticable. I therefore concluded to visit some 
 localities which were less known, and which would be 
 a greater novelty than the gold region, with which I 
 already felt pretty well acquainted through the daily 
 accounts of them in the newspapers. I had heard an 
 interesting description of some geysers and a volcanic 
 region at the head of Napa Valley, which I determined 
 to visit as soon as the travelling would permit. 
 
 Accordingly I left San Francisco on the 17th of 
 March, accompanied by Dr. Webb and Mr. Thurber, 
 for Benicia, where we arrived in two hours. Our 
 steamer was crowded with passengers, chiefly bound 
 for the mines, among whom were a number of Chinese. 
 These men were dressed in their native costume, and 
 each carried with him a huge pair of boots, showing 
 plainly to what region he was destined. 
 
 Benicia was for a while the rival of San Francisco ; 
 though I cannot see why such aspirations should have 
 been indulged in for a moment. It is situated on the 
 
NAPA VALLEY. 13 
 
 Straits of Carquinez, about thirty miles from San Fran- 
 cisco, on a gentle slope, which becomes almost a plain 
 as it approaches the water's edge. It contained at the 
 time of my visit about 1500 inhabitants, including the 
 soldiers now stationed here. Its buildings are mostly 
 of wood, and among these are several hotels. The best 
 of them is the "American," a neat and well-kept house, 
 where we stopped. It was then the Head-quarters of 
 the Pacific division of the U. S. Army. The large 
 deposit of Quarter-master's and Commissary's stores had 
 been recently removed hither, and efforts were making 
 to have the Navy yard here also. The Pacific Mail 
 Steam Ship Company had its depot here, and next to 
 the Navy yard was the most valuable accession it could 
 possibly enjoy. The steamers all lie here until a few 
 days before sailing, when they move down to San 
 Francisco. This company furnished much business to 
 the place with its large coal depot, ship yard, and 
 various workshops, where several hundred men were 
 constantly employed. The military post is about a 
 mile from the town, and consists of a few wooden build- 
 ings. 
 
 I called on General Hitchcock, commanding the 
 Pacific division of the IT. S. Army, for the purpose of 
 obtaining an escort for the Commission from San Diego 
 to the Pimo villages on the Gila. This seemed neces- 
 sary, as the command of Colonel Craig amounting to 
 twenty-five men, which accompanied the surveying 
 parties down the Gila, had all deserted but five, on 
 their arrival at San Diego ; and of these, three were 
 non-commissioned officers. General Hitchcock, with 
 the promptness and liberality which have ever distin- 
 
14 SAN DIEGO TO 
 
 guished him, at once acceded to my request, and gave 
 me an order on the commanding officers at San Diego 
 and Fort Yuma to furnish me with such a force as they 
 deemed necessary. 
 
 It was from Benicia that we were to take the road 
 to Napa Valley. On making known to General Hitch- 
 cock my desire to visit the Geysers, he kindly furnished 
 me with horses and a pack-mule for the purpose. To 
 Major Allen, the Quarter-master, I am also indebted 
 for his promptness in facilitating the wishes of myself 
 and party in our proposed trip, and for sending me a 
 trusty man. 
 
 March 19 th. Our horses, mule, and attendant were 
 promptly at the door by 7 o'clock ; and after break- 
 fast we took our departure. Proceeding along the 
 shores of the bay, we passed the great projected city 
 of Vallejo, the once intended capital of the State. It 
 now stands naked and alone, its large houses tenant- 
 less. As the capital of California it might have become 
 a place of importance ; but without such factitious aid 
 there is nothing to build it. 
 
 Here we entered Napa Valley. The hills on both 
 sides as well as the valley were covered with a luxu- 
 riant growth of wild oats, and immense herds of cattle 
 were roaming about feasting on them. Wild flowers 
 of varied hues were thickly scattered around, and every 
 thing showed that the heavy and continued rains had 
 given new life to vegetation. Our course was now a 
 northerly one, directly up the valley. Napa Creek, 
 which we saw at a distance, makes up it, and affords 
 sufficient water for small vessels, several of which we 
 saw gliding up. The valley soon became perfectly 
 
NAPA VALLEY. 15 
 
 level, without a hill or depression. In many places 
 ploughmen were at work turning up the soil, which 
 was of the richest description. Barley appeared to be 
 the principal grain sowed, this being in more general 
 use for horses than oats, and found to give a better 
 yield. In one place I noticed a hill, the whole of which 
 had been sowed with barley, presenting a field of more 
 than a hundred acres. The soil here was loose ; and 
 as the water had run off, the ground was in a fit state 
 for cultivation. The valley below was still very wet, 
 and would not be in a fit state to plough for weeks 
 yet. On this account, the declivities possess an advan- 
 tage for early planting, over the level plains. 
 
 At 2 o'clock reached the village of Napa, where 
 we dined. Distance travelled, twenty miles. The 
 road was excellent, except in two places, where the 
 valley was still wet, and where our horses sank deep 
 in the mud. Napa Creek is navigable to this point, 
 even for vessels of a large burden, should it be neces- 
 sary to bring them here, which will hardly be the case. 
 Near the town is the hulk of a ship. It was bought 
 by a gentleman in San Francisco for a trifle and brought 
 here, where it is used as a storeship, as well as for 
 the residence of the owner and his family. She cost 
 much less than it would have done to erect a small 
 dwelling, and the owner has besides the advantage of 
 a large warehouse. She lay close by the river's bank ; 
 and with a doorway cut in her side, the entrance was 
 made quite easy. A steamboat now runs to San Fran- 
 cisco, which will tend to populate rapidly this beautiful 
 valley, and render the town of Napa the centre of one 
 of the richest agricultural districts in the State. After 
 
16 SAN DIEGO TO 
 
 dinner we rode five miles, to the house of Joseph W. 
 Osborne, Esq., a merchant of San Francisco, who had 
 invited me to make him a visit. Mr. 0. had pre- 
 ceded us a couple of days, and met us at his gate, 
 giving us a warm reception. 
 
 Mr. Osborne's place was the most beautiful and 
 picturesque I had seen in the valley. In fact, it was 
 the only house wherein there was any attempt at taste 
 and comfort ; for the country was too new to expect 
 much in this way yet. But even his was a small and 
 unpretending cottage after the New England fashion. 
 The valley here is about four miles in width. Where 
 it opens on St. Pablo Bay it is about six miles, but it 
 gradually contracts towards the north. At the entrance 
 it is an open plain, destitute of trees, and covered with 
 luxuriant grass; but here it assumes a new aspect, 
 such a one, too, as I had not before seen in the coun- 
 try. It is now studded with gigantic oaks, some of 
 them evergreen, though not so close together as to 
 render it necessary to cut any away to prepare the 
 land for cultivation. These magnificent oaks are found 
 sometimes in long lines, and again in clusters of twenty 
 or thirty, forming beautiful groves ; then again a space 
 of ten or twenty acres will occur without a single tree. 
 If this romantic valley were transferred to the older 
 countries of Europe, it would be taken for the domain 
 of a prince or a nobleman. It answers to the idea one 
 has of the old and highly cultivated parks of England, 
 where taste and money have been lavished with an 
 unsparing hand, through many generations. As one 
 emerges from or enters each grove, he involuntarily 
 expects some venerable castle or mansion to appear ; 
 
NAPA VALLEY. 17 
 
 or to find himself among some secluded villages. But 
 in the entire length of the valley there are no houses 
 to be found within a less distance than five miles of 
 each other, and these too of the most humble and 
 unpretending character. What is singular, and to me 
 unaccountable in these groves of large trees is, that 
 there are no young ones, none but the venerable and 
 full-grown oaks, which, doubtless, for centuries have 
 held exclusive sway over this wide-spread and beauti- 
 ful domain. Nor is there any undergrowth of other 
 trees and shrubs. I can only account for this defi- 
 ciency by attributing it to fires since the occupation of 
 the country by the Spaniards ; or, by supposing that 
 the immense herds of cattle, which for a century past 
 have occupied the valley, have browsed upon the 
 shrubs and young trees, until they destroyed them, 
 and afterwards kept down the shoots as they sprang 
 up. 
 
 The valley is hemmed in on both sides by ranges 
 of low mountains, running north and south, which are 
 generally covered to their very summits with forest 
 trees. Here and there bold rocks jut out, presenting 
 the most fantastic outlines ; while between the valley 
 and the mountains runs a lower range of rounded 
 hills, dotted with small bushy oaks and pines, which 
 present a fine contrast with the more sombre hues of 
 the mountain foliage. Occasionally the gigantic palo 
 Colorado (red wood) raises its tall head far above every 
 other object, making even the huge oaks appear 
 -diminutive. 
 
 In the midst of the valley winds a small stream, 
 called Napa Creek, its course marked by the graceful 
 
18 SAN DIEGO TO 
 
 willows that grow along its margin. This creek is chiefly 
 supplied by springs near the head of the valley ; but 
 during the rainy season several mountain torrents 
 empty their waters into it — indeed, some of them I 
 was told contribute a portion during the whole year. 
 
 The larger portion of Napa Valley was still in the 
 state in which nature had left it, but had all been 
 taken up by recent settlers, and was fast being brought 
 into cultivation. A road had just been laid out 
 through its centre, and every farmer was occupied in 
 marking out his land and dividing it into lots inclosed 
 by substantial rail fences. Ploughs were cutting up 
 the virgin sward in all directions ; and in one place I 
 saw a ditching machine in operation. It answered 
 the double purpose of making a ditch four or five feet 
 wide, with an embankment of sufficient height to 
 answer for a fence or wall. This machine was worked 
 by two or three oxen and a windlass. It is a rapid 
 method of accomplishing two most important objects ; 
 and the mound is said to keep the cattle out as well as 
 .a high fence. 
 
 Mr. Osborne's men were all New England farmers, 
 several of them from Rhode Island ; and it is astonish- 
 ing to see how much more work one of these men 
 will perform than a Mexican or Californian. He pays 
 them seventy-five dollars a month, and finds them, 
 which pays him better than employing ordinary hands 
 at half the price. Mr. 0. has owned this property but 
 one year ; and a furrow was never turned on it or a 
 seed sown, until he came into possession. He has now 
 more than a hundred acres under cultivation, a con- 
 siderable portion of which is protected by a post and 
 
NAPA VALLEY. 19 
 
 rail fence of red wood. Many fruit trees, grape vines, 
 flowering shrubs, etc., are in a flourishing condition 
 around his house. In no part of the Atlantic States or 
 Mississippi Valley could such improvements be shown 
 in the same time, except on prairie land. 
 
 March 20th. This morning we called on Mr. 
 Yaunt, a Missourian, and one of the oldest settlers in 
 the valley. Mr. Y. came here some twelve or fifteen 
 years ago, and obtained a large grant of land from 
 the Government ; he, however, has cultivated very 
 little of it, but has used it, like the other great land- 
 holders of the country, for a cattle range. The other 
 original grantees of land in Napa Valley were Mr. 
 Fowler, Dr. Bale, an Englishman, and Don Salvador 
 Vallejo. The usual measure of land in this country, 
 as well as in Mexico, is the square league, containing 
 about five thousand acres. Senor Vallejo, who was 
 the largest proprietor here, owned six square leagues, 
 or thirty thousand acres. It is well for the country 
 that these large estates are now being divided and 
 brought into market. They will, doubtless, ere long 
 be eagerly sought after, on account of their extraordi- 
 nary fertility and beautiful situation, by gentlemen who 
 wish to get away from the bustle of a great city, and 
 enjoy the retirement of a country life.* 
 
 I was desirous to have Mr. Yaunt accompany us 
 
 * In an agreeable work by Lieutenant Revere, I find the following 
 history of Mr. Yaunt : " This old man had led an adventurous and 
 checkered life ; in the course of which he had fought under Jackson at 
 New Orleans, and in the Seminole war had been taken prisoner by the 
 Indians, and actually bound to the stake. He had been a hunter and 
 a trapper, and Indian fighter at large, in the heart of the continent, until 
 
20 SAN DIEGO TO 
 
 to the Geysers, and he readily promised to go ; but as 
 he did not appear at the time appointed, we waited 
 for him till twelve o'clock, and then determined to 
 proceed without him. Mr. Osborne now joined our 
 party, and we resumed our journey. 
 
 The valley continued as before, level, and without 
 
 his combative propensities were gratified — and he finally found himself 
 one day at the " jumping-off place," and made his first attempt at ocean 
 navigation on the bosom of the broad Pacific. In the unpretending 
 skiff of an otter hunter, often unaccompanied save by his trusty rifle, he 
 coasted the shores and islands of California in search of the pelt of his 
 valuable prey. "While employed one day (in the year 1836) in his 
 regular pursuit, he chanced to steer his skiff into the navigable creek or 
 estuary of Napa, rightly judging it a place of resort for his furry friends. 
 The valley was then inhabited by none but Indians ; and he made his 
 way up to a beautiful spot, a few miles from his boat, which had been 
 selected for a rancheria by a tribe called the " Caymas." Here he sat 
 down to rest; when suddenly there flashed upon his mind, like a gleam 
 of light, a long-forgotten prophecy of an old fortune teller in his native 
 State. He declares that the sibyl had predicted the spot of his future 
 residence in terms exactly answering to the description of this valley, in- 
 cluding all the accessories of grove, plain, mountain, river, and even " me- 
 dicine water," as the Indians call the springs. The old man pondered 
 over this prophecy, counted his gains, which had been considerable, and 
 philosophized over the vicissitudes of human life, not forgetting, how- 
 ever, to examine the valley more carefully. On his next visit to 
 Monterey, he became a citizen of California, and obtained a grant of 
 land, embracing the charmed spot indicated by the Western witch. 
 He then came and settled it, purchasing cattle with his gains in the 
 " lower country." But the happy valley then swarmed with Indians, 
 jealous of white men, and constantly fighting among themselves ; so that 
 this elysium was turned into a pandemonium by their screams and war- 
 whoops. He quitted his skiff, formed an alliance offensive and defen- 
 sive, with the rancheria of Caymas, erected a log house, after the man- 
 ner of his ancestors in the days of Daniel Boone, and with his faithful 
 rifle — the only fire-arm in the valley — not only stood and repelled the 
 
NAPA VALLEY. 21 
 
 a hill or an undulation. A luxuriant growth of 
 grass, studded with brilliant wild flowers, lined our 
 path. As we continued north, the adjacent hills 
 became more thickly wooded, particularly with pines 
 and firs ; the red- wood, a species of cypress, still more 
 conspicuous, raising its tall stem far above the others.* 
 
 attacks of the rival rancherias, but attacking in turn, exterminated the 
 unruly, sustained the wavering, and, single-handed, bullied the whole 
 valley into submission. Many a weary, and anxious, and watchful night 
 did he spend ere this result was achieved ; but once accomplished, his 
 sovereignty remained undisputed ; the conquered became his servants ; 
 and the allies of Caymus remain to this day his laborers and his farm 
 hands." — Tour in California, p. 95. 
 
 * This tree is remarkable for the great height which it attains. I have 
 been told by credible persons that specimens are now growing which are 
 three hundred feet in height ; and I have seen persons who have mea- 
 sured fallen trunks two hundred and sixty-six feet in length. It is one of 
 the most important vegetable productions of California ; and besides the 
 various uses to which it is applied when sawed into boards, it is exten- 
 sively employed for fencing purposes, the grain being so straight that it 
 splits with the greatest ease ; indeed, before the introduction of saw- 
 mills, it was usual to split logs of the red wood into planks. 
 
 It is also said to be very durable. Colonel Fremont saw posts which 
 had been in the ground three fourths of a century, without traces of 
 decay. The houses built by the Russians at Bodega many years since, 
 are of this timber, with posts sunk in the ground, into which the 
 horizontal pieces are mortised. The planks upon the sides are about 
 three inches thick, and had been but little smoothed off after being split. 
 No signs of decay could be detected even in the posts. At this place, 
 Captain Smith erected a steam, grist, and saw-mill, in 1845, being the 
 first structure of the kind in the country. He states that they could not 
 saw logs much over four feet in diameter, and never cut any less than 
 eighteen inches ; and yet the average number of cuts or logs, each of 
 -sixteen feet in length from a single tree, was between eight and ten.* 
 
 * Report of P. T. Tyson to the Secretary of War, on the Geology and Topography of Califor- 
 nia. 
 
22 SAN DIEGO TO 
 
 Passed the farm of Mr. Yaunt, and soon after that 
 of Senora Bale, the widow of an English physician, 
 
 Fremont describes the largest red-wood measured by him to be fif- 
 teen feet in diameter, and 275 feet in height. Lieut. Sloneman, U. S. 
 Army, speaks of another of about the same height, and twenty-one feet 
 in diameter. The largest tree seen by Mr. Tyson (quoted above) was in 
 the forests near Bodega : it had been cut down and a portion removed ; 
 the stump was twelve and a quarter feet in diameter, clear of the very 
 thick baric. He saw many trees of nine or ten feet, and those of six 
 and eight feet, were very common. 
 
 After examining these forests to some extent, Mr. Tyson says he 
 " measured off a space equal to one seventh of an acre, which was esti- 
 mated to contain about an average of the forests of that region, and 
 found within it three trees about one hundred feet high and eighteen 
 inches thick, and twelve others varying between four and eight feet in 
 diameter, and from 180 to 230 feet high." It is difficult to form an 
 idea of the product of timber upon an acre containing the proportion 
 within the fractional part above noted, without an arithmetical calcula- 
 tion, when it will be found to produce about one million feet of boards, 
 one inch thick, besides five hundred cords of wood from the tops and 
 limbs. 
 
 Captain Smith thinks he alone has seen ten thousand acres of such 
 forest, and Mr. Tyson saw many acres which would yield considerably 
 more in proportion than the measured space. 
 
 Judge Thornton speaks of pines which " measured, at a height of be- 
 tween six and a dozen feet above the ground, forty feet in circumference, 
 their bark nearly a foot thick, and between two and three hundred feet 
 high." Between Paget Sound and Fort Harrison, some of the fallen 
 trees have been found to be 265 feet in length. "These trees are per- 
 fectly straight and without branches for a distance of 150 feet. In many 
 places where these trees have fallen, they present barriers to the vision 
 even when the traveller is on horseback." — Oregon and California, Vol. 
 I. p. 350. 
 
 Mr. Walter Hitchcock gives the following account of forest monsters 
 which fell under his observation : 
 
 "The big trees (for there are 131 of them over ten feet in diameter 
 standing on the limits of a few acres) stand in Mammoth Tree Valley, 
 
NAPA VALLEY. 23 
 
 who settled and died here. This lady has a large 
 estate, which contains more improvements than any 
 
 about thirty miles north of Sonora, in Calaveras county. The mam- 
 moth tree which has been felled, was bored down with long augers, and 
 took four men twenty-two days to get it down. The stump stands about 
 six feet above the level of the ground, and its top has been made level 
 and smooth, which required sixteen days work. I measured it from the 
 inside of the bark across to the inside of the bark, and it measured twen- 
 ty-five feet, and is perfectly sound clear to the heart. The bark, to the 
 height of 52 feet, has been taken from the trunk in sections, and sent to 
 the fair at New- York. If the top half of the tree were taken off, so as to 
 make a level surface, a stage coach with four horses might be driven on 
 it, from the butt towards the tip, a distance of 166 feet, it being at this 
 length ten feet in diameter. At the length of 280 feet, it is four feet in 
 diameter. At this j)oint it was broken off in falling, and the tip was 
 broken into fragments so fine I could not measure them ; but its height 
 had been taken before it was felled, and set down at 300 feet. It is 
 called arbor vitce; but it is not fully decided to what variety it belongs. 
 It is a little curious that no other trees of the same kind can be found 
 less than seven feet in diameter, and this tree is estimated by a scientific 
 gentleman from San Francisco to be 3,100 years old. 
 
 "There are many others still standing, of the same kind, which are 
 monsters ; some even larger than this, but not sound. One, called Un- 
 cle Tom's Cabin, has a more commodious room in it than many miners' 
 cabins. There are some large ones blown down, and one I must not 
 fail to describe. It was evidently decayed before it fell, and in its fall 
 broke off sixty feet from the roots. This part is hollow ; and I cannot 
 give you a better idea of its size, than by telling you that I rode my 
 horse through it from end to end. At the end where it is broken off, 
 the shell is very thin, and as I sat on the horse, I could not reach my 
 hand to the inner surface, over my head ; but half-way through, the 
 shell was as much as three feet thick over my head, and more than that 
 under the horse's feet, and here it was necessary to lean forward. But 
 this is not the largest. There is another one blown down, which meas- 
 ures 110 feet in circumference and 410 feet in length. This, too, is hollow ; 
 and if the hollow were enlarged a little, it would make a very good rope- 
 walk." 
 
24 SAN DIEGO TO 
 
 other farm in the valley. In her orchard I noticed 
 pear and peach trees, and grape vines in abundance ; 
 while around the house were rose bushes and other 
 flowering shrubs. The lady was at work in her gar- 
 den, in which she seemed to take a deep interest ; 
 while frolicking around her were six beautiful chil- 
 dren, whose light hair and fair complexion indicated 
 their Anglo-Saxon parentage. Passed other farms, 
 some of which, particularly Mr. Keller's, bore the 
 marks of an old settlement, from the extent of its 
 fences, its barns, saw-mill, and other improvements. 
 Here was a large orchard of peach trees in full bloom ; 
 which trees, I was told, were brought round Cape 
 Horn from the Atlantic States. Every thing here 
 was in a flourishing condition ; although in the form 
 and arrangement of the buildings a sad deficiency of 
 taste was visible. 
 
 A ride of three miles further brought us to Mr. 
 Kilburn's, a Missourian, with a Californian wife. We 
 stopped here for the night, and were disappointed in 
 not finding Mr. K. at home. He is another old resi- 
 dent, having been some seven years in the valley. As 
 this gentleman was familiar with the district we were 
 about to visit, we had relied on his accompanying us ; 
 or, failing to do so, we had hoped to obtain such infor- 
 mation from him as would enable us to find the objects 
 of which we were in search. Mrs. Kilburn received 
 us kindly, although we were all strangers to her; 
 nevertheless she seemed a little flustered when we told 
 her we had come to pass the night there. She is quite 
 young, good-looking, and has an interesting family of 
 little ones around her, who, like the children before 
 
NAPA VALLEY. 25 
 
 mentioned, exhibit their Anglo-Saxon descent. A fine 
 supper was soon prepared for us ; after partaking of 
 which, we were directed to our beds in the chamber 
 above, all clean and comfortable. 
 
 The valley for the last few miles had diminished 
 much in width, being not more than a mile at Mr. Kil- 
 burn's farm. The soil, too, had changed from a black 
 loam to clay and gravel. Nevertheless, vegetation 
 seemed quite as luxuriant, and the valley presented a 
 greater variety of trees. The oak, which, as I have 
 stated, monopolizes the valley below, here gives way 
 to the lofty pine, spruce, red-wood, cedar, &c. 
 
 I had heard at San Francisco of the large yield of 
 vegetables on this farm, and made inquiry as to its 
 truth. I found the statement to be correct ; and that 
 from two acres of onions planted near the house, Mr. 
 Kilburn had realized last year, in the market of San 
 Francisco, eight thousand dollars in cash. He also 
 raised an immense number of cabbages and other vege- 
 tables. In explanation of this, I ought to mention that, 
 onions are considered the most valuable of all vege- 
 tables among the gold miners, on account of their anti- 
 scorbutic properties. They grow here to an enormous 
 size, and give an immense yield. My own experience 
 convinces me of the great value of onions where there 
 is a predisposition to scurvy, and there is no vegetable 
 which one craves more than this. Many have I bought 
 at twelve and a half cents a piece, and eaten with more 
 relish than I ever did an orange. 
 
 In our ride to-day, we crossed the valley to examine 
 some thermal springs, which are somewhat celebrated 
 here. They are in a plain near the base of a small hill 
 
26 SAN DIEGO TO NAPA VALLEY. 
 
 of conglomerate rock ; but owing to the wet and boggy- 
 condition of the valley, we were unable to approach 
 within thirty feet of them. Columns of steam were 
 rising from them on all sides. These springs had been 
 visited by Professor Shepard the year before, and some 
 account of them given by him to the public* The 
 temperature is said to be constantly changing. Pro- 
 fessor S. heard that there was a place near the foot of 
 Mount Helena, where the hot waters formerly flowed, 
 but which had now ceased. This report induced him 
 to visit the spot. " Externally," he says, " there was 
 no uncommon appearance to indicate the locality. 
 Neither a surplus or a scarcity of vegetation, and no 
 appearance of scoria, tufa or travertine, as might have 
 been expected." In one place, however, he found it 
 slightly warm on the surface ; and on excavating to 
 the depth of two feet, it became so hot that he could 
 not bear his hand in the mud and clay. He inserted 
 the bulb of his thermometer, and the mercury at once 
 rose to one hundred and twenty degrees. The tem- 
 perature of the springs we visited, varied from 105 to 
 169 degrees. 
 
 * See Silliman's Journal, Nov. 1851, p. 154. 
 
THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, ETC. 27 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, AND RETURN TO SAN 
 FRANCISCO. 
 
 Mount Helena — Eussian inscription — Digger Indians — Dwellings — Mode 
 of fishing — Dress — Pass the mountains — Meet bear hunters — Mode of 
 cooking without utensils — Pluton River — The Geysers — Description of 
 these phenomena — Effect of the water on wood — Extent of volcanic 
 action — Return to Camp — Abundance of grizzly bears — Eecross the 
 mountains — Return through Napa Valley — Visit to the Obsidian hills 
 — Extensive use of this material by the Indians — Return to San Fran- 
 cisco. 
 
 March 21st Resumed our journey after breakfast ; 
 and at Mr. Fowler's, three or four miles distant, met a 
 man who manifested much curiosity in our researches, 
 when he found us inquiring about mines and the vol- 
 canic region. He showed Dr. Webb a specimen of 
 ore, which, he said, was from that vicinity. The doc- 
 tor at once pronounced it zinc, and expressed a doubt 
 about its being found in the state in which it was 
 exhibited to him. But the man insisted that his 
 account of its origin was correct, and furthermore 
 offered to conduct us to the spot ; whereupon we set 
 off together under his guidance. Crossing the valley 
 to the opposite side, he led us up a deep ravine, where 
 he leaped from his horse and pointed out the rock from 
 
28 THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, 
 
 which he said the specimen was taken. An examina- 
 tion showed it to be nothing but serpentine. He led 
 the doctor to several ledges at some distance, but their 
 character was the same. He had evidently been im- 
 posed upon, for he acknowledged afterwards that he 
 did not find the specimen himself. Many tricks of 
 this kind are practised on the ignorant, and they even 
 sometimes lead scientific men astray. 
 
 While this man was hunting up his imaginary trea- 
 sures, I ascended a small hill and took a sketch of the 
 beautiful scenery around. Directly before me on the 
 eastern side of the valley loomed up Mount Helena or 
 Moyacino of the Russians. This is the highest moun- 
 tain for a great distance around, none within seventy 
 or eighty miles having as great an altitude. On its 
 summit is an inscription in Russian characters on a 
 plate of copper, giving the latitude and longitude of 
 the place. We met several persons who had seen the 
 tablet. The Russians had a settlement called Fort 
 Rosse on Bodega Bay, opposite this mountain ; and 
 the tablet was doubtless placed there to show the line 
 of boundary which Russia claimed. 
 
 The view here exhibited the finest alpine scenery 
 I had yet seen in California, and showed that we were 
 advancing northward as well as reaching a higher 
 elevation. 
 
 Reached Mr. Knight's, twelve miles from Kilburn's, 
 at noon. Here the valley grew quite narrow, or rather 
 terminated, it being intersected by a range of hills. 
 At this place, another valley opened some two or three 
 miles in width, and extended about ten miles farther 
 to the north. 
 
AND RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO. 29 
 
 Mr. Knight is a young man from Vermont, who 
 came across the continent about seven years before our 
 visit, with the first emigrants to Oregon. As the 
 country did not suit him, he pushed his way south- 
 ward, until he struck this valley. He owns a large 
 tract of land here ; but in consequence of his distance 
 from market, he has, very wisely, turned his attention 
 from cultivating the soil, to that of raising stock. His 
 isolated position, and the hills of grass and wild oats 
 which surround him on every side, render it a most 
 advantageous one for this purpose. Although sur- 
 rounded by wild beasts and warlike Indians, and with 
 no neighbor within twelve miles of him, he had not 
 forgotten all the enjoyments that belong to civilized 
 communities, as was evinced by a piano-forte and a 
 case well filled with books. 
 
 An Indian village stood a few hundred yards from 
 the house ; and at my request Mr. Knight went out 
 and brought me three of the most intelligent among 
 them, from whom I obtained a full vocabulary of their 
 language. Like many other tribes of the country, and 
 of this region in particular, they appeared to have no 
 name for themselves as a people. By the white peo- 
 ple, these and all other Indians between the Sacra- 
 mento and the coast, and thence through the central 
 parts of the State, are called "Diggers," or "Digger 
 Indians," from, the fact that they live chiefly on roots, 
 which they collect by digging. I therefore set them 
 down as Indians of Napa Valley. We had met with 
 -several small bands, and passed a few villages on our 
 way up ; but from none could I learn that they had 
 any name for their tribe. This fact will account for 
 
30 THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, 
 
 the great diversity in the names of the California 
 Indians as given by travellers. In examining the 
 various books on this country and articles in scientific 
 journals, I find tribes mentioned by names which are 
 not elsewhere to be found; and in my own inquiries 
 I have found tribes who called themselves by names 
 which I never heard of before. This has induced me 
 to believe that the small tribes or bands, which abound 
 here more than in any other part of North America, 
 when asked to what tribe they belong, give the name 
 of their chief, which is misunderstood by the inquirer 
 to be that of the tribe itself. 
 
 Their houses are circular, and from twelve to 
 thirty feet in diameter, the interior usually excavated 
 about three feet below the surface of the ground. 
 Within this circle posts are planted, forked at the top, 
 upon which rest poles reaching from one to the other. 
 The spaces between the posts are filled in with sticks 
 or tules, against which the earth is firmly banked up 
 outside. The roofs are dome-shaped, and, in the 
 smaller houses, supported by a single post in the cen- 
 tre, on the forked top of which rest two main rafters, 
 with their outer ends planted in the ground. From 
 these are stretched stout poles, about a foot apart and 
 thatched with sticks and tules, or rushes closely inter- 
 woven, and covered with a solidly pressed layer of 
 earth about a foot thick, making a roof completely 
 water proof in the heaviest rains. In some villages 
 the houses have but one aperture, which is on the top 
 of the roof, and serves for both door and chimney. 
 This is entered by a sort of rude ladder, or by notches 
 cut in the centre-post. Others have an ojDening at the 
 
AND RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 31 
 
 side, so small as not to be entered except by crawling 
 on the hands and knees. Around the sides of the 
 interior are wide shelves, formed of poles and rushes 
 resting on forked posts, which serve for beds. 
 
 Summer huts of California Indians. 
 
 In the view of the interior of one of their dwell- 
 ings is seen a number of decoy ducks which they use 
 to good advantage. Although the California tribes 
 exhibit much skill in fishing and in trapping game, 
 and the erection of their dwellings, they show little in- 
 genuity in the arts of design. The accompanying rude 
 figure in wood, of a woman and child, which was 
 
32 THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, 
 
 found on the coast, is all that I have seen of their carv- 
 ing. 
 
 The Indians dwelling near the great rivers of Cali- 
 fornia make much dependence upon the salmon and 
 sturgeon which they can take. For this purpose they 
 use both nets and spears. When the river is wide, 
 the nets are stretched by means of booms projecting 
 from the banks, sometimes a hundred feet into the 
 stream. These booms are made of the trunks of trees, 
 fastened together at the ends, and kept at a right angle 
 with the shore by stays of grape, vine stretching from 
 the boom to trees or stakes. Beneath the outer end 
 of the boom is a float or raft of tule, upon which is 
 stuck a branch gaily trimmed with feathers and other 
 ornaments, as a charm to secure success. Other charms, 
 usually made of bunches of feathers raised upon poles, 
 are displayed along the bank, where are also one or 
 two huts for the party in attendance. One of the 
 party holds constantly in his hand a line attached to 
 the net, by means of which he can feel when a large 
 
AND RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 33 
 
 fish is entangled, whereupon the net is hauled in and 
 the prize secured. 
 
 California Indians catching salmon. 
 
 When a sturgeon is caught, the spinal marrow, 
 which is considered a delicacy, is drawn out whole, 
 through a cut made in the back, and devoured raw, 
 with a rapidity quite startling to one not aware of the 
 strength of an Indian's stomach. 
 
 The spear is a very ingenious and effective con- 
 trivance. When thrown into a fish, the head., which 
 is of bone with a line attached towards the point, 
 detaches itself from the pole, which serves as a drag 
 to weary out the fish. As soon ns the pole can be 
 seized, nothing remains but to haul the prey in. 
 
 The men either go naked or wear a simple breech- 
 cloth. The women wear a cloth or strips of leather 
 around their loins. A basket pointed at the lower 
 
34 THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, 
 
 end, is in universal use among theni, for gathering the 
 roots and seeds which form their chief subsistence. 
 This is carried on their backs, supported by a band 
 across the forehead. Their arms of defence are bows 
 and arrows. Some tribes, however, make use of the 
 spear or lance. In one respect the California Indians 
 differ from all others. I allude to their beards, which 
 are generally permitted to grow. It is true they are 
 not as thick and bushy as in the white race, but short, 
 thin, and stiff. I have never seen them extend beyond 
 the upper lip and the chin. The hair of all the Cali- 
 fornia Indians I have seen is cut short. 
 
 After partaking of an excellent dinner, we took 
 leave of our host. For several miles our journey ex- 
 tended over a plain hemmed in on all sides, on which 
 large herds of cattle were grazing ; then came ranges 
 of low hills, all covered with wild oats or clover. The 
 cattle truly luxuriated here. A ride of twelve miles, 
 alternately over low hills and valleys, and winding 
 through clusters of trees and shrubbery, brought us to 
 the establishment of MacDonald, the last settler in this 
 part of the country, towards Oregon. We received a 
 cordial welcome from Mr. MacDonald and his wife, — 
 a young woman of twenty, who must have some cou- 
 rage to settle down in this lonely spot. On making 
 known' my intention to visit the volcanic region, Mr. 
 MacDonald consented to be our guide, although busily 
 engaged in putting in his crops. 
 
 Having an hour or two to spare before dark, I 
 took a sketch of the valley and adjoining mountains, 
 all of which presented a most picturesque appearance. 
 The valley is here very limited, being confined to 
 
AND RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO. 35 
 
 patches of from twenty to fifty acres, but all connected 
 by a small and never-failing stream of excellent water. 
 The object of our friend in settling here was to secure 
 to himself a large tract of land without encroachment. 
 Thus he has a section of good tillable land of one hun- 
 dred and sixty to two hundred acres, and on the low 
 hills around it about four thousand acres excellent for 
 grazing purposes. Having secured all the valley, no 
 one would take up land on the hills. His section 
 would, therefore, give him the use of the large tract 
 adjacent, which was all he required. 
 
 March lid. Took an early breakfast, and started 
 at seven o'clock. MacDonald led the way, and we 
 followed him in Indian file. We had now no more 
 beautiful valleys or grassy plains to traverse. Nothing 
 but a succession of lofty and rugged mountains lay 
 before us, through the intricacies of which we had to 
 wind our way. There was no road, nor even a trail, 
 save those made by wild animals, of which there was 
 an abundance in these parts. Our guide often directed 
 our attention to the huge tracks of the grizzly and 
 brown bear, and again to those of the elk, which con- 
 stantly crossed and recrossed our path. He had been 
 several times to the place we were going, and knew 
 the country well ; yet so wild and rugged was it, so 
 dense the forest, and with such a succession of ascents 
 and descents, that he sometimes seemed at a loss which 
 way to go. The general direction was well known ; 
 but among such a number of deep gorges and ravines, 
 mountains, hills, and valleys, it was no easy task to 
 select the right one ; and a mistake in the mazes of such 
 a place would leads us into inextricable difficulties. 
 
36 THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, 
 
 At noon, having been five hours in the saddle, we 
 stopped to rest ourselves, as well as our animals, on 
 one of the elevated spurs, from which we had a grand 
 view of a vast stretch of country towards the coast. 
 Some ten or fifteen miles distant lay Russian River, 
 winding its way along a beautiful valley, bounded by a 
 succession of hills ; and beyond this rose the coast range 
 of mountains. While the animals were grazing, I took 
 a sketch of this enchanting spot. 
 
 Pursuing our journey still over hills and through 
 ravines ; forcing our way among the thorny chapporal 
 and thickets ; — now winding along the side of a steep 
 hill, where a single misstep would throw horse and 
 rider some hundred feet below, and now leading our 
 frightened animals up some precipitous ascent where 
 it was unsafe to ride them, we at length reached the 
 summit of the mountain beyond. From this elevated 
 point the view was grand beyond description. On the 
 east, far in the distance, the horizon was bounded by 
 the snow-capped summits of the Sierra Nevada, form- 
 ing a well marked line with the deep blue of the ho- 
 rizon. Nearer, and on every side, lay mountains 
 of every variety of form ; some rugged and bare, 
 others covered with a deep Alpine foliage, while 
 others again of less height, from their yellow hue, 
 seemed clothed with the rich verdure of wild oats. 
 Four or five miles distant, in an opening surrounded 
 by rugged mountains, lay Clear Lake. 
 
 After following the summit we were now on, for 
 a couple of miles, we began to descend again into the 
 deep gorge, through which runs Pluton River, on whose 
 banks are the volcanic phenomena and geysers of 
 
AND RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO. 37 
 
 which we were in search. The descent was here so 
 steep that we were obliged to dismount from our ani- 
 mals and lead them down. Our progress was now 
 necessarily rapid, and we soon reached the base of the 
 mountain. Here we suddenly came upon four men, 
 who had come out a few days before us from MacDo- 
 nald's to amuse themselves in hunting the grizzly bear. 
 We reached this place at four o'clock, a distance of 
 but sixteen miles, after a most fatiguing journey ; 
 although the beauty and variety of the scenery well 
 repaid us for the effort. As there was still a descent 
 of five hundred feet to the stream, and a mile to the 
 geysers, we determined to leave their examination till 
 morning, and devote the remainder of the day to rest 
 and the preparation of our dinner. 
 
 As the hunters had nothing but bear's meat in 
 store, three of them took their rifles and went out to 
 procure a deer for dinner. In less than an hour all 
 returned, each bringing with him the hind quarters of 
 a fine deer, having been equally successful in their 
 short hunt. While they were absent, our servant had 
 made a fire, and got a kettle of boiling water ready 
 for making coffee. In ten minutes after their return, 
 the venison and bear's meat were roasting before the 
 fire, and emitting the most appetizing odors. 
 
 The method of preparing a fine game dinner with- 
 out a single cooking utensil deserves to be mentioned. 
 First, a number of sticks are cut about two feet in 
 length, the size of one's finger, divested of their bark, 
 and sharpened at one end. These correspond to the 
 spits in civilized roast-ovens. The meat is now cut up 
 into pieces about three quarters of an inch in thickness 
 
38 THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, 
 
 and half the size of one's hand, with a hole in the cen- 
 tre. Through these the sharpened stick is thrust, and 
 its lower end planted in the ground before the fire. 
 As our fare consisted of venison and bear's meat, suc- 
 cessive layers of each were put upon the sticks, the fat 
 of the latter, as it dripped down, basting and furnish- 
 ing an excellent gravy to the former. In fifteen 
 minutes, with occasional turning, the dinner was pro- 
 nounced ready to be served up. 
 
 Being unprovided with the luxury of a table, we 
 seated ourselves on the grass, beneath the wide-spread- 
 ing boughs of a tree, and a few yards from the fire, in 
 order to be near the kitchen, and to have our meats 
 and coffee warm. Before each person was stuck in the 
 ground a stick of the roasted meat. A bag of hard 
 bread (pilot bread), some sugar, salt, and pepper, 
 were placed near, and each man was provided with a 
 tin cup filled with coffee. Thus furnished, and with 
 sharp appetites, we fell to, and never was a feast more 
 heartily appreciated. Our coffee and bread were 
 excellent ; and those who were not satisfied with one 
 stick of meat, found another ready at the fire when 
 the first was gone. 
 
 By the time we had finished our dinner, it was 
 dark. We then sat for an hour or two listening to the 
 feats and adventures related to us by the hunters before 
 referred to, all of which were exciting and full of 
 interest ; after which, one by one, we rolled ourselves 
 in our blankets, and dropped asleep, dreaming of grizzly 
 bears, elk, venison, and the wild scenery we had been 
 enjoying during the day. 
 
 March 23d Was up by sunrise, after an excellent 
 
AND RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO. 39 
 
 night's rest ; and took a bath in the waters of a little 
 stream that tumbled down within twenty feet of our 
 camp-fire, by which time our breakfast was ready. 
 This was a counterpart of yesterday's dinner, viz., 
 bear's meat, venison, hard-bread, and coffee. Having 
 dispatched it, we set off for the geysers : Dr. Webb, 
 with his hammer and leather bags for minerals, and 
 with boxes and bottles for small zoological specimens ; 
 Mr. Thurber, with his portfolio for plants ; and I, with 
 my sketch-book. We were all provided with pistols or 
 rifles besides. It would have been easier and attended 
 with less risk, to make the descent on foot; but we 
 were obliged to go on horseback, on account of having 
 to ford the stream. The river or creek was from thirty 
 to forty feet wide where we crossed it, about half up 
 the horse's middle, and very rapid. On either side, 
 the banks were rocky and steep, rendering it some- 
 what difficult, though with steady animals not a dan- 
 gerous passage. About a quarter of a mile from the 
 opposite bank we dismounted, unsaddled our animals, 
 and staked them out to feast themselves on the rich 
 clover which there abounded, and then completed our 
 journey on foot. A few hundred yards brought us to 
 the first of the geysers, or " volcanoes," as they were 
 called by our guide. I should not forget to remark, that 
 we saw in several ravines, as we passed along, traces of 
 former volcanic action. The rocks were bare, and in a 
 decomposed state, showing the effects of heat or fire, 
 although no heat was then perceptible. 
 
 At the first place we stopped, there was a show of 
 about half an acre of decomposed granite, and other 
 rocks, from cavities in which issued fumes of sulphur 
 
40 THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, 
 
 and small quantities of steam. At these places were 
 beds of crystallized sulphur; and in others, sulphur 
 was exposed on turning up with a stick the exterior 
 crust. There was every appearance around us that the 
 rocks had been subjected to an intense heat, which was 
 now gradually abating. After collecting specimens of 
 the sulphur and adjacent rocks, _ we continued further 
 up. 
 
 Another quarter of a mile, over steep hills and across 
 deep ravines, brought us to the principal "geysers." 
 Here was truly a grand prospect, and difficult to de- 
 scribe by one unacquainted with such scenes ; for to 
 speak with scientific precision of such a remarkable spot 
 as this, the writer should be familiar with volcanic regions 
 and know something of similar phenomena. The action 
 here was confined within a narrow ravine, in the moun- 
 tain side, running nearly at right angles with Pluton 
 River, which we had crossed. The banks were from 
 one hundred and twenty-five to one hundred and fifty 
 feet in height, breaking in from the mountain, which 
 rose up from ten to fifteen hundred feet above, and 
 were wholly composed of decomposed rocks. In the 
 chasm beneath us, columns of steam were spouting out 
 on every side ; while deep at the bottom, ran a small 
 rivulet. Vegetation of luxuriant growth crowded close 
 upon the crumbling rocks, consisting of various kinds 
 of shrubbery, pines, oaks, firs, &c. 
 
 We clambered down to the spot where the scoria 
 or burnt rock first appeared, and seated ourselves 
 sunder the shade of a pine tree. From this point I 
 ttook a sketch looking down the gorge. On each side 
 of where we sat, some twenty or thirty feet below, a 
 
AND RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO. 41 
 
 small stream came tumbling down, concealed from view 
 by dense foliage, and united at the base of a jutting 
 mass of rocks, as seen in the sketch. I thrust a staff, 
 which I carried with me, some three or four feet into 
 the crumbled granite beneath ; which led us to think 
 it not quite safe to remain where we were. From this 
 place, we got down with some difficulty to the bottom 
 of the gorge, where the main stream ran. The water 
 was here cold and pure, exhibiting no unpleasant taste. 
 A few yards further brought us into the midst of the 
 puffing geysers, or steam-jets ; for I knew not by what 
 other name to call them. Fumes of sulphur here met 
 our nostrils at every step, while the rustling steam, as 
 it spouted from a hundred cavities, completely envel- 
 oped us. The latter did not issue in one continuous 
 column, but at short intervals, as from the pipe of a 
 high pressure engine. It was with some difficulty that 
 we could breathe here among the fumes of sulphur and 
 the steam; and we crouched low in the bed of the 
 rocky stream to avoid them. In cavities along both 
 banks, and near the running brook, was boiling water, 
 which rose and fell, accompanied by a loud gurgling 
 noise, resembling that of a gigantic steam condeilser. 
 In one of these cavities, stones as large as an egg 
 were in a state of commotion, presenting a curious 
 resemblance to a pot of boiling potatoes. I held my 
 hand fifteen inches above this boiling pot, at which 
 distance the water scalded it, From this cavity to the 
 running stream, was just the width of my hand ; though 
 "the surface of the boiling water in the cavity, was about 
 a foot above the running water. The whole of this 
 violent commotion was accompanied by a tremendous 
 
42 THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, 
 
 noise beneath the earth's surface, quite equal to and 
 resembling, .that made by several ocean steamers, letting 
 off their steam through their large pipes, loud, deep, 
 and harsh. There was no cessation to this awful roar, 
 but one continued noise, as though a vast workshop 
 beneath was in full operation. 
 
 The banks of the gorge were now too steep to 
 attempt to ascend, nor would it have been safe to do so 
 among so many jets of steam,boiling caldrons, and fumes 
 of sulphur ; so we made our way down the gorge in the 
 very bed of the stream, jumping from rock to rock, first 
 on one side and then on the other, and occasionally, where 
 the stream took a leap, letting ourselves down in the best 
 way we could. Thus we worked our way along for 
 about an hour, filled with admiration and wonder at 
 the mysterious workings of nature around us. The 
 water, as we advanced, grew warmer, in consequence 
 of accessions from the boiling cavities along its mar- 
 gin, until the stream became quite hot. We had here 
 an opportunity to select a bath of any temperature, 
 from one of icy coldness to that of one hundred and 
 fifty degrees ; and we did not fail to improve it in some 
 of the deeper basins of the stream, which seemed pre- 
 pared by nature for such a purpose. 
 
 Having thus refreshed ourselves, we clambered up 
 the opposite bank ; and as we had now passed through 
 that portion of the gorge which had been affected by 
 the heat, we lay down awhile under the shade of a tree 
 on the bank of Pluton River. Looking up here, we 
 saw before us, at the distance of a few hundred yards, 
 another of these volcanic wonders. This was directly 
 on the north-east bank of the stream, and was marked 
 

 Mm '' ' 
 
 WSM 
 \M 
 
 lif 
 
AND RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO. 43 
 
 by a patch of decomposed rock of a whitish cast, cover- 
 ing about an acre. Here also jets of steam issued 
 forth, but not in so many places, nor with as much force 
 as within the gorge just described. Dr. Webb and Mr. 
 Thurber examined it, and afterwards visited several 
 others, further up the river ; but none of them were 
 found to equal the first in grandeur. I remained be- 
 hind with Mr. Osborne, to take a sketch from the bank 
 where we stood, showing these last named geysers, 
 and the deep mountain gorge through which Pluton 
 River runs. The scenery here was truly grand. Im- 
 mense pines grew on the mountain sides and tops, 
 while oaks and smaller trees filled the narrow valleys 
 and ravines, which the rains had made. Just below us 
 ran the river, dashing over rocks in its steep descent, 
 and often concealed by the thick foliage which over- 
 hung it. 
 
 Mr. Osborne and myself then returned and crossed 
 the foot of the gorge where the great geysers are, with 
 the iritention of getting a view of the chasm looking 
 up towards the point from which I had taken my first 
 sketch. To reach this point was easier said than done, 
 and proved the most difficult and only dangerous 
 adventure of the day. However, by lying flat on our 
 breasts and working a resting-place or notch with our 
 feet in the crumbling rocks, and occasionally laying 
 hold of a projecting root, we succeeded in reaching 
 the desired point. Here, on a projecting cliff, grew a 
 few shrubs of the manacita, beneath which I crept on 
 my hands and knees ; and having reached the point, 
 sat down and took a sketch, while my companion re- 
 freshed himself beneath the shade. 
 
44 THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, 
 
 From this point is a fine view of the chasm or 
 gorge, with the little stream at the bottom, and the 
 jets of steam spouting from its sides. The projecting 
 rock, near which I took the first sketch, is seen at the 
 head of the gorge, and in the centre of the picture. 
 Close upon the decomposed rock appears the luxuriant 
 vegetation ; while the mountain, towering far above all, 
 forms the background. 
 
 The decomposed rocks, of which I have so often 
 spoken, are in general of a whitish cast, curiously 
 interspersed with spots of every hue. I noticed many 
 patches of deep red, and some of light yellow and 
 green ; while here and there were others of black, 
 brown, and slate color. 
 
 Having completed my sketches, we hastened back 
 to the place where we had left our animals. Here we 
 threw ourselves on the grass in a deep grove near the 
 bank of the mountain torrent, to await the return of 
 Dr. Webb, Mr. Thurber, and MacDonald. At the 
 same time I sent my' servant ahead to our place of 
 encampment to build a fire, put on a kettle of water, 
 and make other preparations for dinner. Within half 
 an hour our friends made their appearance, when we 
 mounted our nags, recrossed the river, and, after a 
 little hard tugging up the mountain, reached our 
 camp fire in safety, delighted with the adventures of 
 the day. 
 
 I am not aware that this interesting spot has been 
 visited by any man of science, except Professor Shep- 
 herd, of Western Reserve College, Ohio ; and as 
 his experience and profession better fitted him for 
 investigations in such phenomena than mine, I quote a 
 
AND RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO. 45 
 
 portion of his remarks, which will convey a fuller and 
 clearer idea than rny feeble description. My time 
 while there was short, and mostly spent in making 
 sketches, and in collecting a few specimens of sulphur 
 and of the contiguous rocks ; nor had I the means 
 of testing; or examining the waters. 
 
 " You may here find sulphur water," says Professor 
 Shepherd,* " precisely similar to the celebrated Wliite 
 Sulphur of Green Brier County, Virginia, except its icy 
 coldness. Also red, blue, and even black sulphur 
 water, both cold and hot. Also pure limpid hot water, 
 without any sulphur or chlorine salts ; calcareous hot 
 waters, magnesian, chalybeate, etc., in almost endless 
 variety. Every natural facility is afforded for either 
 vapor, shower, or plunging baths. Where the heated 
 sulphuretted hydrogen gas is evolved, water appears 
 to be suddenly formed, beautiful crystals of sulphur 
 deposited (not sublimated as by fire), and more or less 
 sulphuric acid generated. In some places the acid 
 was found so strong as to turn black kid gloves almost 
 immediately to a deep red. * * * From nume- 
 rous experiments made here and in the mountains of 
 Virginia, I am confident that all sulphur springs possess 
 a high temperature, after descending below the cold 
 surface water. Notwithstanding the rocks are so hot 
 as to burn your feet through the soles of your boots, 
 there is no appearance of a volcano in this extraordi- 
 nary spot. There is no appearance of lava. You find 
 yourself standing not in a solfatara, nor one of the 
 salses described by the illustrious Humboldt. The rocks 
 
 * Silliman's Journal for November, 1851, p. 156. 
 
46 THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, 
 
 around you are rapidly dissolving under the powerful 
 metaniorpliic action going on. Porphyry and jasper 
 are transformed into a kind of potter's clay. Pseudo- 
 trappean rocks are consumed much like wood in a slow 
 fire, and go to form sulphate of magnesia and other 
 products. Granite is rendered so soft that you may 
 crush it between your fingers, and cut it as easily as 
 unbaked bread. The feldspar appears to be converted 
 partly into alum. In the mean time the boulders and 
 angular fragments brought down the ravines and river 
 by floods are being cemented into a firm conglomerate ; 
 so that it is difficult to dislodge even a small pebble, 
 the pebble itself breaking before the conglomerate 
 yields. 
 
 "The thermal action on wood in this place is also 
 highly interesting. In one mound I discovered the 
 stump of a large tree silicified ; in another, a log 
 changed to lignite or brown coal. Other fragments 
 appeared midway between petrifaction and carboniza- 
 tion. In this connection, finding some drops of a very 
 dense fluid, and also highly refractive, I was led to 
 believe that pure carbon might, under such circum- 
 stances, crystallize and form the diamond. Unfortu- 
 nately for me, however, I lost the precious drop in 
 attempting to secure it. 
 
 " A green tree cut down and obliquely inserted in 
 one of the conical mounds, was so changed in thirty- 
 six hours that its species would not have been recog- 
 nised except from the portion projecting outside, 
 around which beautiful crystals of sulphur had already 
 formed." 
 
 According to the statement of MacDonald, our 
 
AND RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO. 47 
 
 guide, who had made several visits to the geysers, 
 their activity has greatly diminished, or we saw them 
 under less favorable auspices than usual. He said that 
 when last here the water spouted up from five to ten 
 feet in height ; that the jets of steam were much larger 
 and more steady ; and furthermore, that a day often ex- 
 hibited a material difference. That the action has les- 
 sened, and nearly ceased, is certain as respects the first 
 one we visited ; for it now appears like an expiring fire. 
 
 When Professor Shepherd visited this place, a year 
 before us, he says that within the space of half a mile 
 square he "discovered from one to two hundred open- 
 ings, through which the steam issued with violence, 
 sending up columns of steam to the height of one hun- 
 dred and fifty to two hundred feet," * * * and again, 
 " throwing out jets or volumes of hot scalding water 
 some twenty or thirty feet, endangering the lives of 
 those who stood near. In some places the steam and 
 water came in contact, so as to produce a constant jet 
 cVeau, or spouting fountain, with a dense cloud above 
 the spray, affording vivid prismatic hues in the sun- 
 shine." With such jets of water and steam as these, 
 the grandeur of this extraordinary spot would be 
 greatly enhanced. 
 
 Our dinner was soon ready, and we seated our- 
 selves on the grass again, with appetites sharpened by 
 a long fast and a laborious tramp of nearly ten hours. 
 Sticks of the same delicious bear's meat, and veni- 
 son were placed before us, with a second course, on 
 smaller sticks, of some fine grouse which MacDonald 
 had shot. This was a bird I had not before seen. It 
 was larger than the ordinary prairie fowl, and proved 
 
48 THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON EIVER, 
 
 delicious eating. A bath followed our repast, after 
 which we rolled ourselves up in our blankets and lay 
 down for the night. The novelties of the day occupied 
 our attention for an hour, when we quietly dropped off, 
 and slept as soundly under the protection of the 
 spreading oak as beneath a tent or in the most luxurious 
 chamber. These were the first nights I spent in the 
 open air, on the bare ground, since I was taken sick near 
 Ures ; and I felt a little uneasiness at being so exposed. 
 But I neither took cold nor suffered any other incon- 
 venience from it, although in the month of March. 
 One soon becomes habituated to this mode of life, and 
 is less liable to colds and illness than when sleeping 
 under a roof with the addition of comfortable fires. 
 
 I learned from the hunters who were with us the 
 first night that this region abounds in game, particu- 
 larly bears, elk, and deer. They had been here but 
 three days before our arrival, and in that time they 
 had seen no less than thirty-two bears, most of them 
 of the grizzly species ; the others of the brown and 
 black varieties. Of these they had killed and obtained 
 two ; three they had wounded and lost. Of deer they 
 had also killed many. The bear's sense of smelling is 
 so good, that they soon found out our proximity, and 
 gave us a wide berth. Deer were seen all around us. 
 
 March 24$h. Our excellent guide and hunter, 
 MacDonald, called us to breakfast at daylight; soon 
 after taking which we mounted our animals and began 
 the ascent of the mountain, whose summit we speedily 
 attained. On looking at the valley beyond, we found 
 it completely buried in a fog, the tops of the moun- 
 tains alone being visible. These appeared like islands 
 
AND RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO. 49 
 
 and long necks of land in the midst of a vast body of 
 water. While we were on the crest of the high range, 
 a dense fog so completely enveloped us that we could 
 see nothing but the point on which we stood. We 
 made our way back much more rapidly than we came, 
 it being earlier in the day and much cooler ; so that 
 by twelve o'clock we were at MacDonald's place, 
 where we dined and allowed our animals to feed and 
 rest. 
 
 At half-past two we bade farewell to our kind and 
 hospitable hosts, Mr. and Mrs. MacDonald, and resum- 
 ed our journey. Stopped for fifteen minutes at Mr. 
 Knight's, when we again pushed on, and reached Mr. 
 Kilburn's at sunset. This gentleman was now at 
 home, and gave us a warm reception. We learned 
 many particulars from him corroborating the statements 
 we had heard of the extraordinary fertility of the soil 
 in Napa Valley, as well as the great yield of vegeta- 
 bles on his own land, of which I have before spoken. 
 
 March 25th. Took an early start, first making 
 inquiries of Mr. Kilburn about the locality of some 
 hills of " black flint" which we had heard of. We had 
 occasionally picked up along the road small pieces of 
 obsidian, and were extremely desirous to find whence 
 they came. After many inquiries we were directed 
 to the farm of Mr. Kelly, who has a small mill on Napa 
 Creek, a short distance from the road. We found Mr. 
 Kelly at home ; and on making known our wishes to 
 examine the place referred to, he took a spade and 
 -accompanied us to the spot, about half a mile distant, 
 on the eastern side of the valley. We found it to be 
 a spur of the mountain ridge, about* eighty feet in 
 
50 THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, 
 
 height, projecting quite out into the plain. The whole 
 seemed full of obsidian, covered with a layer of earth, 
 on which is a thick growth of trees and shrubbery, 
 save on the summit, where there is less soil. Here in 
 many places the surface was covered, from six to 
 twelve inches in depth, with broken pieces and small 
 boulders of this volcanic substance, resembling a 
 newly made macadamized road. 
 
 Taking the spade, I scraped away the fragments 
 and loose pieces to reach the mass below. This we 
 found existing in a conglomerate state. The mass in 
 which the obsidian is imbedded is quite soft and friable 
 towards the surface ; so that it was difficult to detach 
 it with the obsidian adhering to it, except in very 
 small pieces. The largest of the specimens obtained 
 was about the size and shape of an ostrich's egg^ from 
 which they diminished to that of a pea. Many pre- 
 sented sharp angles, where they had come in contact 
 and been broken. The substance in which the obsi- 
 dian is imbedded resembles a coarse mortar of lime, 
 sand, and gravel. I took a sketch of Napa Valley 
 from these hills, showing Mount Diabolo in the dis- 
 tance, which is plainly seen from San Francisco and 
 Sacramento. 
 
 Obsidian is used by the Indians for their arrow- 
 heads in all parts of North America west of the 
 Rocky Mountains. It is found too among many tribes 
 to the east of this range. The ancient Mexicans made 
 of it the knives which they used in their sacrifices. 
 We found small fragments of it along the Gila, wher- 
 ever there had been any Indian villages; and also 
 among the ruins of the Casas Grandes, in Chihuahua, 
 
AND RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO. 51 
 
 as well as those of the Gila and Salinas Rivers. The 
 Apaches had arrows pointed with the same material. 
 Yet I know of no other locality where obsidian is 
 found in place in any of the regions visited by the 
 Boundary Commission except this. All the specimens 
 we saw were black, occasionally with a smoky or 
 brownish tint.* 
 
 We now continued our journey, and reached Mr. 
 Osborne's at two o'clock. After dinner we rambled 
 over the adjacent hills to obtain a better view of this 
 delightful valley, which lost none of its beauties from 
 whatever point it was observed. 
 
 On the opposite side of the mountains which 
 bound Napa Valley on the west, is Sonoma Valley. 
 This is similarly situated, running north and south 
 between ranges of low mountains. It likewise pos- 
 sesses great fertility, but has not the picturesque 
 beauty of Napa. The same may be said of the valleys 
 of Petaluma, Novato, and San Rafael. 
 
 March 2Qth. Took an early breakfast and bade 
 adieu to our kind and gentlemanly host, who intended 
 to follow us in a few hours. We did not wait for him, 
 as he wished to stop on the way, and I was desirous to 
 pay my respects to General Hitchcock and the other 
 officers at Benicia before returning to San Francisco. 
 
 * Obsidian is said by Pliny (Nat. Hist, xxxvi. 26) to have been 
 first found in Ethiopia by a person named Obsidius, from whom it de- 
 rives its name. It occurs also in various parts of Europe, Asia, and 
 America, and in the vicinity of most volcanoes. Pliny says that gems. 
 " and sometimes whole statues, were made of it. He also speaks of four 
 elephants of obsidian, which were dedicated by Augustus in the temple 
 of Concord. 
 
52 THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, ETC. 
 
 As it was quite cool, we were enabled to ride fast and 
 reach Benicia by two o'clock. Took dinner, and 
 afterwards walked out to the military post, when I made 
 my calls upon the officers there. Mr. Osborne joined 
 us at five o'clock, and at seven we took the steamboat 
 for San Francisco, where we arrived at nine. 
 
THE QUICKSILVER MINES, ETC. 53 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 THE QUICKSILVER MINES OF NEW ALMADEN. 
 
 Leave San Francisco — San Jose Valley — Fertility of the soil — Mission of 
 Santa Clara — San Jose — New Almaden — Quicksilver mine — Mode of 
 extracting the ore — Large tanks of quicksilver — Account of the quick- 
 silver mines of Spain — Production of this metal in all parts of the 
 "world — Situation of the New Almaden mine — Descent into it — How 
 worked — Laborers — Extent of the mine — Effect of the mercury on 
 laborers — History of the mine — Eeturn to San Francisco — Captain Sut- 
 ter — His history. 
 
 I remained in San Francisco until the 2d of April, to 
 close up my business there before returning to San 
 Diego. To make the most of my time while in Cali- 
 fornia, I determined to undertake the journey to Mon- 
 terey by land, first sending forward our outfit and 
 supplies. 
 
 No event of interest happened while here except a 
 trip which, in company with a small party, we at- 
 tempted to make in the steamer Active, Capt. Alden, 
 attached to the U. S. Coast Survey, to the Faralones. 
 These are some small rocky islands, which lie twenty- 
 five or thirty miles off the entrance to the Bay of San 
 Francisco. The party, however, were so late in 
 assembling, that after getting outside the entrance or 
 Golden Gate, it was found we could not reach the 
 
54 THE QUICKSILVER MINES 
 
 islands before nightfall.; in consequence of which the 
 voyage was abandoned. 
 
 April 2d. Left San Francisco at 8 o'clock in the 
 stage for San Jose, forty miles distant. We were 
 accompanied by Doctor A. Randall, a gentleman of 
 science long resident in the country, and familiar with 
 its localities of interest. Our course was south through 
 the San Jose valley, which in many respects resembles 
 the beautiful valley of Napa. It is entirely flat, with 
 scarcely an undulation. Like the former, it is filled 
 in many places with large wide-spreading oaks. There 
 are also spaces for miles destitute of trees or shrubs, 
 resembling the broad grassy plains of lower Texas ; 
 while again appear beautiful groves and clusters of 
 oaks, cypresses, and sycamores, as picturesquely dis- 
 posed as if planted by the hand of a skilful landscape 
 gardener. The soil is rich, and was covered with a 
 luxuriant growth of wild clover and grass. This val- 
 ley extends for more than a hundred miles towards 
 Monterey, being separated from the coast by a range 
 of low mountains. Its width for a long distance after 
 leaving San Francisco is not less than fifteen miles, 
 though it diminishes as we approach San Jose. Yet 
 this entire valley has all been taken up, and covered 
 with claims upon claims; so that for many years to 
 come the lawyers will doubtless derive the largest 
 income from it. As yet there are few settlers upon it, 
 and but little land under cultivation. When we take 
 into consideration the extraordinary fertility of the 
 soil in California, it will be seen that such an immense 
 tract as this San Jose valley is capable of producing a 
 vast deal towards supplying the State with food. Its 
 
tin is 
 
 ; * wsi mm. 
 
 m m wxm issii 
 
 I? 1 VW m W 
 
 I : f I II 
 
 m 
 
OF NEW ALMADEN. 55 
 
 value is justly appreciated by the people ; as is shown 
 by the readiness with which the stock for a railroad to 
 connect San Jose with San Francisco was taken up. 
 
 The road is excellent for the entire distance, and 
 the stage rolled rapidly over it. Three miles from San 
 Jose we passed the mission of Santa Clara, a collection 
 of old buildings with a church. Here the land seemed 
 to have been long under cultivation, judging from the 
 long rows of venerable and gigantic overgrown oaks 
 which border the road. There were also some fine 
 large orchards and vineyards here, which belong to the 
 mission. But the stage did not stop ; and we had no 
 time to examine it. At half-past four, we reached 
 San Jose.* 
 
 * I cannot refrain from quoting a passage from Vancouver, one of 
 the most reliable of the early voyagers to California, giving an account 
 of his journey from Monterey to Santa Clara. The reader will be struck 
 with the resemblance between this district as described by him and the 
 beautiful valley I visited north of San Francisco. 
 
 " We considered our route to be parallel to the sea-coast ; between 
 which and out path, the ridge of mountains extended to the south-east- 
 ward ; and as we advanced, their sides and summits exhibited a high 
 degree of luxuriant fertility, interspersed with copses of various forms 
 and magnitude, and verdant open spaces enriched with stately fruit- 
 trees of different descriptions.. About noon we arrived at a very pleasant 
 and enchanting lawn, situated amidst a grove of trees at the foot of a 
 small hill, by which flowed a very fine stream of excellent water. We 
 had not proceeded far from this delightful spot, when we entered a 
 country I little expected to find in these regions. For about twenty 
 miles, it could only be compared to a park which had originally been 
 planted with the true old English oak ; the underwood that had pro- 
 bably attained its early growth, had the appearance of having been clear- 
 ed away, and had left the stately lords of the forest in complete posses- 
 sion of the soil, which was covered with luxuriant herbage, and beauti- 
 
56 THE QUICKSILVER MINES 
 
 Santa Clara was but recently occupied by a priest ; 
 it has now shared the fate of all the other missions of 
 the State, which have either been abandoned or have 
 fallen into the hands of speculators. 
 
 April 3d After breakfast, walked about the town, 
 but found nothing of interest. The pueblo of San Jose, 
 is an old place ; its admirable situation, at the head of 
 the rich and beautiful valley I have described, attract- 
 ed the attention of the Americans soon after the subju- 
 gation of the country, and it was selected as the capitol 
 of the State. This gave to it an impetus, and brought 
 it at once into notice. Many hotels and other build- 
 ings soon sprang up, a large city was laid out, and, as 
 is usual in such cases, much money was made and lost. 
 But its growth was as suddenly checked by the subse- 
 quent selection of another place for the future capitol. 
 It is situated about five miles from the southern extremi- 
 ty of the Bay of San Francisco ; and being in the centre 
 of one, of the most fertile districts in the State, it will 
 yet become its first agricultural town. 
 
 On inquiring for Indians here, I learnt that there 
 was a woman of the San Luis Obispo tribe, living in 
 the place. I lost no time in calling upon her, and found 
 she was married to an American. She proved, as I had 
 heard, to be quite an intelligent person, about 35 years 
 of age, living in a comfortable house with her family 
 around her. On my requesting to know the principal 
 
 fully diversified with pleasing eminences and valleys ; which, with the 
 lofty range of mountains that bounded the prospect, required only to be 
 adorned with the neat habitations of an industrious people, to produce 
 a scene not inferior to the most studied effect of taste in the disposal of 
 grounds." — Vancouver 's Voyages, vol. ii. p. 16. 
 
OP NEW ALMADEN. 57 
 
 words of her language, she readily complied ; and in a 
 few hours, I obtained a most satisfactory vocabulary. 
 
 In the afternoon, we took the stage for New Alma- 
 den, thirteen miles distant. Our route lay through a 
 valley of unequalled beauty, the entire distance being 
 dotted with large oaks and sycamores, with an occasional 
 clump of firs and red-woods, the latter towering high 
 above all others. There are some clusters of these red- 
 woods of enormous size between here and Monterey, 
 of which we heard much, and regretted that we had no 
 time to visit them. On reaching the town, I drove at 
 once to the house of Mr. Young, the superintendent 
 of the quicksilver mines, to whom I had a letter of 
 introduction from Captain Hallock, U. S. A. of San Fran- 
 cisco, one of the officers of the Company. 
 
 April 4tth. New Almaden consists exclusively of 
 the buildings belonging to the company which owns 
 the quicksilver mine. It embraces furnaces, store- 
 houses, dwelling-houses for the officers and laborers, 
 offices, mechanics' shops, &c. Many of them are of 
 wood ; but a large and fine range of substantial brick 
 buildings is now in the process of erection, to take the 
 place of the wooden ones. The novelty of the business 
 of extracting the quicksilver from the cinnabar, required 
 a number of experiments, involving a very heavy ex- 
 penditure ; for there was but one other mine in the 
 world, that of Almaden in Spain, where the operation 
 was carried on on a large scale, and it could not be 
 expected that a rival company like this, whose opera- 
 tions would effectually destroy the monopoly the latter 
 had for ages enjoyed, would be permitted to derive- 
 ■ any information from their long experience. Machine- 
 
58 THE QUICKSILVER MINES 
 
 ry of various kinds was therefore imported from Eng- 
 land and the United States at enormous cost, much of 
 which has since been rejected, either on account of the 
 great expense of running it, or its inadequacy to per- 
 form the service required. Six furnaces are now in 
 operation reducing the ore, all of which seem to be 
 alike, and of the most simple construction. On these 
 furnaces the ore is heaped. A steady, though not very 
 strong fire, is then applied. As the ore becomes heat- 
 ed, the quicksilver is sublimed ; and then being con- 
 densed, it falls by its own weight, and is conducted by 
 pipes which lead along the bottom of the furnace to 
 small pots or reservoirs imbedded in the earth, each 
 containing from one to two gallons of the ore. The 
 furnaces are kept going night and day, while large 
 drops or minute streams of the pure metal are constantly 
 trickling down into the receptacles. From these it is 
 carried to the store-house, and deposited in large cast- 
 iron tanks, or vats. These are of various shapes and 
 -sizes, and are fixed in solid beds of stone and mortar. 
 'The largest, a square vat between four and five feet 
 across, contained twenty tons of pure quicksilver. By 
 way of illustrating the great specific gravity of this 
 metal, a board was placed on it, upon which I sat, thus 
 floating upon a bed of quicksilver ; yet my weight did 
 not sink the board to the depth of a quarter of an inch. 
 On thrusting my bare arm into this vat, a most singu- 
 lar and chilling sensation was produced. I then took 
 a stick of light and porous wood, which I immersed for 
 about a minute ; and when I withdrew it, the metal had 
 penetrated through every portion of it, so that in 
 weight it was little less than the quicksilver itself. 
 
OF NEW ALMADEN. 59 
 
 In the warehouse the metal is prepared for market. 
 This is done by putting it into wrought iron flasks or 
 canisters holding 75 pounds each. It is dipped up 
 with ladles, and poured into the flasks through an ordi- 
 nary tin funnel. The opening or neck of the flask 
 (which in form is something like a junk bottle) is 
 then stopped with a close-fitting screw, put in with a 
 vice, so as to make it tight as possible. These flasks, 
 which weigh twenty-five pounds each, are all made in 
 England, where I suppose they can be furnished much 
 cheaper than in the United States. From the ware- 
 house the flasks are transported by ox-carts to tide- 
 water, about twenty miles distant, whence they are 
 shipped to San Francisco. The present (1852) price of 
 the metal there is sixty cents a pound, a very great 
 reduction from that which the quicksilver from Spain 
 has commanded, though of equal quality. A shipment 
 of a thousand flasks was lately made to Canton, by way 
 of an experiment. In China it is chiefly used in the 
 manufacture of vermilion and other articles of com- 
 merce.* 
 
 * As this is the only quicksilver mine yet known in the United 
 States, and is only second in the world to that of Almaden, in Spain, a 
 few words on the latter, and of other quicksilver mines, do not seem inap- 
 propriate. 
 
 Quicksilver, or mercury, has been known from the earliest ages, but 
 is found nowhere in large quantities, except in Spain and California- 
 Almaden has long been famed for its mines of this metal, which, accord- 
 ing to Bowles, are the richest in their produce, the most instructive as 
 to the mode of working them, the most curious for their natural history, 
 and the most ancient in the world. We find them mentioned in Theo- 
 phrastus, three hundred years before Christ, and Vitruvius also speaks 
 of them. Pliny places Cisapona, or as it is sometimes written Sisapona, 
 
60 THE QUICKSILVER MINES 
 
 I did not learn what quantity was produced at the 
 time of my visit here, but have since seen it stated to 
 be about one thousand flasks per month, or nearly a 
 million pounds a year. According to Dumas, the an- 
 
 in Bsetica, and says that this mine was kept sealed with the greatest 
 care, and was only opened to take the quantity of cinnabar necessary 
 for the consumption of Rome. (Nat. Hist, xxxiii. 7.) The Romans con- 
 sidered this mineral poisonous ; but notwithstanding this, their matrons 
 painted their faces with it, and their painters employed it as a pigment. 
 The Romans certainly worked this mine, but no traces remain of their 
 labors. The Moors, perhaps owing to some prejudice, did not work it. 
 
 " The country about Almaden abounds in iron mines ; and what is 
 more surprising, in the same mine we find iron, mercury, and sulphur, 
 mixed so as to form one mass. The neighboring hills are found of the 
 same stone, and on all of them the same species of plants grow ; from 
 which we may infer that the mercury does not possess any poisonous 
 qualities, as is generally supposed, injurious to vegetation. 
 
 " The brothers Mark and Christopher Fugger, of Germany, undertook 
 to work this mine, and contracted to give the government four thousand 
 five hundred quintals (of 100 lbs. each) of mercury, annually; but not 
 being able to fulfil their promise, they abandoned it in 1635, together 
 with the silver mine of Gualcanal, which they also had. While con- 
 nected with these mines, however, their riches became proverbial in 
 Spain, and their descendants live at present in Germany, with the rank 
 of princes. A branch of this family afterwards took the mine, and worked 
 it till 1645. In the following year, the government undertook the man- 
 agement of it. Don Juan Bustamente established the furnaces, and also 
 troughs for cooling the mineral. These furnaces are twelve, and are 
 called by the names of the twelve apostles. Each is capable of contain- 
 ing ten tons weight of stone. The furnace is kept burning for three days 
 and the same period is required for cooling." — Introduction a la Geo- 
 grafica Fisica y la Historia Natural de Espana. 
 
 The other quicksilver mines worthy of notice, are one at Huancave- 
 lica, in Peru ; at Idria in Carniola ; in Hungary, Transylvania, and the 
 district of Deux Ponts in Germany. There is a mine of cinnabar near 
 Alicante, and another' not far from San Felipe in Spain. Mercury has 
 
OF NEW ALMADEN. 61 
 
 nual product of the Spanish mine at Almaden is about 
 three millions of pounds. 
 
 April 4dh. After breakfast we set out on foot for 
 the mine, which is situated near the top of a mountain 
 immediately adjoining the works. The ascent begins 
 directly in the rear of the store-houses, by a well con- 
 also been found in China and Japan : and though the amount of the 
 produce is unknown, it is believed to be considerable. 
 
 Le Play, a French geologist, who visited Almaden in 1833, describes 
 the mines as being richer than at any former period, furnishing anually 
 nearly 2, 244,000 pounds of mercury. About seven hundred workmen 
 are employed under ground, and two hundred in the operations con- 
 nected with extraction of the metal from the ore at the surface. 
 
 According to Dumas, the following mines yield annually, the annex- 
 ed number of quintals of mercury (a quintal is 108 lbs. avoirdupois, 
 nearly) : 
 
 Almaden (Spain) 25,000 to 32,000. 
 
 Idria 
 
 
 6,000 
 
 u 
 
 10,000, 
 
 Hungary 
 Transylvania 
 
 \ 
 
 700 
 
 u 
 
 900. 
 
 Deux Ponts 
 
 
 400 
 
 a 
 
 500. 
 
 Palatinate 
 
 
 180 
 
 u 
 
 200, 
 
 Huancavelica 
 
 
 3,000 
 
 a 
 
 3,000, 
 
 At present, it is understood that Messrs. Rothschild, of London, have 
 the control of the Almaden mines. 
 
 During the year 1853, the total exports of quicksilver from San Fran- 
 cisco, amounted to 18,800 flasks, valued at $683,189. All this, together 
 with the large amount used in California, was the produet of the New 
 Almaden mine. The following shows to what points the quicksilver was 
 exported: " Hongkong, 5,642 flasks, valued at $180,272 ; Shanghae, 
 812,131,199; Canton, 366, $14,125 ; Whampoa, 300, $11,500; Cal- 
 cutta, 50, $1,875 ; Mazatlan, 2,811, $96,250 ; Mazatlan and San Bias, 
 255, $10,000; San Bias, 1,942, $72,463 ; Callao, 1,800, $66,500 ; Val- 
 paraiso, 1,977, $71,875 ; New-York, 1,845, $77,180 ; Philadelphia, 
 1,000, $50,000." 
 
62 THE QUICKSILVER MINES 
 
 structed road of gradual and easy ascent, which the 
 Company has been engaged in making for the last six 
 months. It is a mile in length, and is now only used 
 by mules ; but it is intended to use carts and wagons 
 on it. It winds the whole way along the side of the 
 mountain, rising twenty-five feet in every hundred 
 until you reach the mouth of the mine, at an elevation 
 of a little less than one thousand feet above the com- 
 mencement of the ascent. 
 
 About one hundred and fifty feet, in a direct line 
 below the opening, they were digging a tunnel for the 
 purpose of intersecting the main shaft. This tunnel, 
 which is cut entirely through the solid rock, had 
 already pierced the mountain seven or eight hundred 
 feet, and will, when completed, be not much short of 
 one thousand feet. It is about eight feet high, and 
 between eight and ten feet wide. This will prove a 
 vast saving in labor ; for the ore up to the time of our 
 visit was transported on the backs of men in leather 
 sacks from the bottom of the shafts to the entrance to 
 the mine, a distance of from two hundred and fifty to 
 three hundred feet. It is not the cinnabar alone that 
 has to be thus carried from the bottom of the mine, 
 but the refuse rock, which forms a greater bulk than 
 the ore itself. It cannot be separated in the mine, 
 but has all to be brought to the surface. 
 
 We waited for Mr. Bester, the engineer, to join us 
 before entering the mine ; and as he had not returned 
 from San Jose, where we left him, we determined to 
 forego the examination of its interior to-day, and con- 
 tent ourselves with what we could see on the sur- 
 face. 
 


OF NEW ALMADEN. 63 
 
 The mountain rises one hundred and sixty feet 
 above the entrance to the mine, terminating in a cone. 
 On a level with the entrance, a quarter of a mile dis- 
 tant, is the village, perched on the very summit of a 
 rock, in which the miners live with their families. 
 This mountain, as well as the others adjoining it, is 
 covered with grass, and dotted with small oaks to its 
 summit. There is nothing to distinguish the mountain 
 in which the mine is worked from the others ; hence 
 it is reasonable to suppose that they may also contain 
 veins of cinnabar. The intervening valleys are well 
 wooded, and have a thick undergrowth. 
 
 April 5th. Set out this morning for the mine, ac- 
 companied by Mr. Bester, on mules, as the journey up 
 was fatiguing, and we wished to preserve our strength 
 for the exploration of the various shafts. On reach- 
 ing the entrance, we found all actively employed; — 
 the laborers emerging every minute from the mines, 
 bent under the weight of their loads, which they 
 deposited under a shed about eighty feet from the 
 opening. Here the ore was separated, the refuse being- 
 thrown down the hill, and the rest laid aside to be 
 sent to the furnaces. At the same time the mulada, or 
 collection of some eighty or a hundred mules, was 
 being loaded with the ore. This was put into sacks 
 or panniers of raw hide, which hung across their 
 backs like saddle-bags, each mule carrying on an 
 average a carga, or three hundred pounds. Men stood 
 by with a balance, in which every mule load was 
 weighed, so that the exact quantity of ore sent to the 
 furnaces is known. The weighing is also necessary ; 
 as the company pays so much a carga for bringing it 
 
64 THE QUICKSILVER MINES 
 
 from the bottom to the surface, and for transporting it 
 from the mine to the furnaces. This plan is preferred 
 by the proprietors to that of employing the laborers 
 directly themselves. The work is wholly performed 
 by native Mexicans or Californians, the overseers and 
 contractors who employ them being their countrymen, 
 though of a better class. These men understand the 
 management of their countrymen better than Ameri- 
 cans do ; and the Mexican laborers are better arrieros, 
 and understand all that appertains to the mule better 
 than Americans. 
 
 The laborers wore no clothing, save a breech- 
 cloth, and a handkerchief around their heads. The 
 arrieros had on but little more; a fancy colored 
 calico shirt being the extent of their additional cos- 
 tume. The laborers who bring up the ore to the sur- 
 face make from forty to fifty trips a day. The mules 
 make but two journeys from the mine to the furnaces, 
 completing their day's labor by one o'clock. They are 
 then turned out to feed in the valley or on the moun- 
 tain side, where the grass is good. With so little 
 labor, they are always in fine condition. About two 
 hundred men are employed in the various operations 
 carried on here. 
 
 After being provided with torches, consisting of a 
 candle fastened to the end of a stick, we commenced 
 the descent of the mine, Mr. Bester, the engineer, 
 taking the lead. We first advanced some sixty 
 feet in a horizontal direction, after which the shaft 
 takes a turn downwards, and soon after becomes perpen- 
 dicular. In such places the descent is made on a single 
 notched log, which is preferred by the miners to the 
 
OF NEW ALMADEN. 65 
 
 common ladder ; and although very awkward at first, 
 we soon got used to it. With one hand you take hold 
 of the ladder, and with the other the torch. These lad- 
 ders, although almost perpendicular, are seldom more 
 than twelve or fifteen feet long, being separated by 
 intervals, where the descent is more gradual, with 
 steps cut in the rock. In this way we passed down 
 through various shafts or veins to the bottom of the 
 mine, two hundred feet below the entrance. Passa- 
 ges following the veins of ore extend in every direc- 
 tion, sometimes horizontal, then perpendicular, and 
 again at every inclination. Their whole extent now 
 exceeds seven thousand feet. When a vein is struck, 
 it is followed as far as it can be with safety, what- 
 ever may be its course. The engineer, who keeps 
 before him a map of the mine, is obliged to have an 
 eye to the support of the superincumbent mass. Some 
 of the veins are five feet in diameter, others half that 
 size. Some are also richer than others. 
 
 In each of the veins is a single miner ; for not more 
 than one can work to advantage in these narrow re- 
 cesses. Picks, drills, and crowbars are the tools used. 
 The miners are paid in different ways ; some at a stipu- 
 lated price for each foot of the rock excavated, and 
 others at a certain rate per carga (three hundred 
 pounds) of ore carried to the surface. On reaching 
 the greatest depth, where the ore is very rich, I took 
 a pick and knocked off some fine specimens. We now 
 retraced our steps, and reached the open air in safety.. 
 
 It is an evidence of the admirable system pursued: 
 here, and the watchful care exercised by the company 
 over their employees, that no accident has yet happened. 
 
 VOL. II. — 5 
 
66 THE QUICKSILVER MINES 
 
 to any miner or carrier engaged in these subterranean 
 labors. The workmen, nevertheless, are not without 
 their fears, and have taken their own method to secure 
 * themselves from harm, by placing in a niche just with- 
 in the entrance to the mine, an image of their saint, 
 very prettily decorated with muslin and gaudy silks. 
 Before this every man falls on his knees, and says his 
 prayers, invoking the protection of the saint during the 
 day. I have never seen a more happy and contented 
 set of laborers than these. 
 
 Knowing the effects of mercury on the system, the 
 question will naturally arise in the mind of the reader 
 as to whether those employed in the mine or about the 
 furnaces suffer from their close contact with the ore or 
 the quicksilver. The miners, and those who merely 
 handle the cinnabar, are not injured thereby ; but those 
 who work about the furnaces, and inhale the fumes of 
 'the metal, are seriously affected. Salivation is common ; 
 and the attendants on the furnaces are compelled to 
 desist from their labor every three or four weeks, when 
 a fresh set of hands is put on. The horses and mules 
 are also salivated ; and from twenty to thirty of them 
 die every year from the effects of the mercury. 
 
 The ore, after it is deposited near the furnaces, is 
 separated according to its quality. The larger masses 
 are first broken up, and then all is piled up under 
 sheds near the furnace doors. Seven or eight days are 
 required to fill the furnaces, extract the quicksilver, 
 and remove the residuum, the latter being the most 
 dangerous part of the process. All is done as much 
 in the open air as possible, the furnaces being merely 
 protected by a roof. 
 
OF NEW ALMADEN. 67 
 
 I took several sketches of the village of New Al- 
 rnaden, as well as of the exterior of the mine, and the 
 picturesque scenery in the vicinity. The company 
 possess a large tract of land here, including mountain, 
 hill, and valley. Much of it is well timbered. A fine 
 stream of water runs directly through the village ; and 
 on its very margin is a natural soda spring, which may 
 yet make this spot doubly attractive. 
 
 This mine was long known to the Indians, who 
 resorted hither for the vermillion which they could col- 
 lect from the cinnabar. They had dug some thirty or 
 forty feet into the mountain ; but it does not appear 
 ever to have been worked by the Spaniards. In recent 
 times, its commercial value was first discovered by 
 Senor Castillero, who became its legal owner. Don 
 Jose Castro, who subsequently became proprietor of 
 it, sold out his interest to Barron & Forbes, an Eng- 
 lish house doing business in Mexico. Another partner 
 js Mr. Walkinshaw, an English gentleman long resident 
 in Mexico, and well skilled in mining. This gentle- 
 man now resides about a mile from New Almaden, on 
 one of the natural parks which I have before described, 
 and which he is rendering still more beautiful by the 
 introduction of fruit-trees, vines, flowering shrubs, etc. 
 To this gentleman, to Mr. Young, the superintendent, 
 and Mr. Bester, the engineer, I feel under many obli- 
 gations for the civilities extended to me and the gen- 
 tlemen who were with me, in our visit to New Alma- 
 den and its mine. After a sumptuous dinner, we took 
 the stage and returned to San Jose. 
 
 April 6th. In coming to San Jose, I had the double 
 object in view of visiting the quicksilver mine, and of 
 
68 THE QUICKSILVER MINES 
 
 continuing on by land to Monterey ; but I here learned 
 that it would be impossible to proceed further by land, 
 as the heavy rains and freshets a few weeks before, had 
 carried away the bridges, and rendered the streams im- 
 passable, except by swimming the horses. This I did 
 not feel disposed to do : so the only alternative was to 
 return to San Francisco, and go to San Diego by water. 
 We accordingly took the stage at 8 o'clock, with twen- 
 ty-one passengers inside and out; and reached San 
 Francisco at 4 o'clock in the afternoon. 
 
 I remained in San Francisco six days, waiting for a 
 steamer to San Diego ; and during this time I had the 
 pleasure of meeting with Captain Sutter, whose name 
 is well known to all who have heard or read of the 
 recent history of California. The history of his early 
 adventures has been on several occasions presented to 
 the public by letter-writers ; so that it will be super- 
 fluous at this time to relate them, excepting the follow- 
 ing anecdote, which I have not seen in print. 
 
 " While in Oregon, whither he had come from the 
 United States, Captain Sutter met with a party who 
 gave such a glowing account of California and particu- 
 larly of the valley of the Sacramento, that he determin- 
 ed to visit it, believing it to be precisely the rich coun- 
 try and salubrious climate of which he was in search. But 
 to get there was not so easy, there being then no com- 
 munication from Oregon by sea. He therefore shaped 
 his course for the Sandwich Islands, and from thence 
 to Mexico. At San Bias or Mazatlan, he found a vessel 
 about sailing for Monterey ; he embarked in her, and 
 afterwards reached the Bay of San Francisco, nearly 
 twelve months after leaving Oregon. But the country 
 
OF NEW ALMADEN. 69 
 
 he was in search of was a perfect terra incognita even 
 to the people who then composed the settlement at 
 Yerba Buena ; nor could he gain any information re- 
 specting the river which led to it, or even as to where 
 it entered the bay. His scheme of settling in the inte- 
 rior among the wild Indians, was considered a danger- 
 ous one, and efforts were made to dissuade him from it ; 
 but he had made up his mind to go, and accordingly 
 got a small boat and set off with a few men to find the 
 Sacramento River. They coasted along the bay in vain 
 for several days, and were about to abandon their 
 search, when one night as they were moving slowly 
 along by moonlight, Captain Sutter himself discovered 
 an opening which proved to be the mouth of that river. 
 He passed up it, and selected the spot where he built 
 his fort, and of which he afterwards obtained a grant 
 from the Mexican government." 
 
 When we hear of the pioneers of the West, we 
 imagine them to be such as our Daniel Boon, who led 
 the life of a hunter, trapper, and Indian fighter, until 
 his home was surrounded by settlers, when he again 
 moved farther off, desiring always to be beyond the 
 pale of civilization. Captain Sutter was not of this class ; 
 although he has had his share in fighting the battles 
 of Europe, as well as encountering the Indian on the 
 prairie. He has the manners of an intelligent and cour- 
 teous gentleman, accustomed to move in polished socie- 
 ty. He speaks several languages with fluency. He is 
 kind, hospitable, and generous to a fault ; as very many 
 Americans know who have lived on his bounty. Had 
 he been permitted to retain his immense estate on the 
 Sacramento, and dispose of it as wanted by actual set- 
 
70 THE QUICKSILVER MINES OF NEW ALMADEN. 
 
 tiers, lie would have been one of the richest men in 
 America ; but speculators took advantage of his easy 
 disposition, led him into wild speculations, induced him 
 to lend his name to a large amount, and thus extorted 
 from him or compelled him to give up all of his valu- 
 able property, but the Hock farm, where he now re- 
 sides. He still seems cheerful, and endeavors to make 
 the most of his misfortunes. When I saw him, he told 
 me he had not visited San Francisco for a year.* 
 
 * Captain Sutter is a native of Switzerland, from 55 to 60 years 
 of age, and of fine personal appearance. He was one of the officers of 
 the Swiss Guard in the Revolution of July, during the reign of Charles X. 
 After this he emigrated to the United States, became naturalized, and 
 resided several years in Missouri. From thence he went overland to 
 Oregon, and in 1839 reached California. He bought out the Russian 
 establishment at Fort Ross and Bodega, when the Russians abandoned 
 their settlement in California. His fort on the Sacramento was a large 
 inclosure, five hundred feet in length by one hundred and fifty in breadth, 
 where he had under his control a body of Indians, whom he employed 
 in cultivating the soil. After obtaining his large grant from Mexico, 
 that government made him military commander of the frontier. 
 
RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO SAN DIEGO. 7] 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO SAN DIEGO. 
 
 Leave San Francisco — Monterey — Its harbor — Society — Californian ladies 
 — Father Juniper Serro's account of Monterey in 1770 — Visit to the Mis- 
 sion of San Carlos at Oarmel — Father Garces' visit in 1777 — Leave 
 Monterey — Point Conception — San Pedro — Visit to Los Angeles — Eich 
 prairies — Large herds of cattle — Vineyards and wines — Indians of the 
 Missions — Mission of San Gabriel — Return to San Pedro — Craw fish — 
 Arrival at San Diego — Preparations for return to El Paso — Engage 
 Mr. Leroux as guide — Trip to Los Coronados — Description of these 
 islands — Sea Lions — Climate of San Diego — Visit to the Mission of San 
 Luis Rey — Extensive buildings — Fine Valley — Kechi Indians — History 
 of Father Peyri — Description of the harbor of San Diego — Viscaino's 
 account of San Diego in 1602 — Father Juniper Serro's account in 
 1769 — Mission of San Diego — Picturesque situation — Fine lands — Olive 
 trees — Society of San Diego — Initial Point and monument on the Pa- 
 cific. 
 
 On the 14th of April I embarked in the steamer Ohio 
 for Monterey, at which place I intended availing my- 
 self of a polite invitation given me by Captain Ottin- 
 ger. of the United States revenue cutter Frolic, to take 
 passage with him for San Diego. His duties required 
 him to stop at the various ports between the two 
 places, which would give me a better opportunity to 
 see the country than by remaining on board the 
 steamer. We went to sea at five p. m. with a large 
 number of passengers,, and, having but little wind,, 
 
72 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 shot rapidly through the " Golden Gate." Outside 
 it was so calm, that the broad surface of the Pacific 
 resembled an ocean of glass. 
 
 April 15th. Reached Monterey at eleven, a. m. 5 
 where I found Captain Otti-nger with his beautiful 
 little craft. 
 
 The coast between San Francisco and Monterey 
 presents nothing but low sandy hills, covered with 
 chapporal or scanty verdure. Large quantities of sand 
 are blown up from the sea, and in many places overtop 
 the vegetation. 
 
 On coming to this place from San Francisco, one 
 is struck with its remarkable dulness; yet until the 
 discovery of gold in the country, it was the chief 
 place on the coast, and the capital of California. 
 Many of its houses are now deserted, or in a dilapi- 
 dated state, and the grass may be seen growing in 
 its streets. 
 
 The town is prettily situated on a gentle slope of 
 land, facing the north, about two miles from Point 
 Pinos, which forms the southern extremity of the har- 
 bor or roadstead. The harbor is not a good one, 
 being exposed to the prevailing north-westerly winds, 
 and exhibiting a long beach, with as troublesome a surf 
 as the open sea. From the southwesters it is well pro- 
 tected by Point Pinos. On the east is a succession of 
 small hills, rising one above the other directly from the 
 slope on which the town stands, and covered chiefly 
 with pines. Behind, and immediately contiguous to 
 these, rises the coast range of mountains. On the 
 north, the bay makes a broad semi-circular sweep some 
 fifteen or twenty miles distant, terminating at a point 
 
TO SAN DIEGO. 73 
 
 on the ocean opposite to, though far outside of, Point 
 Pinos, and not visible from the town. The houses are 
 of two classes ; first, those of adobe, belonging to the 
 old town. These are large and well built, many being 
 of two stories, with projecting eaves to protect them 
 from the sun. Those of wood are of recent erection, 
 and have not the substantial appearance of the adobe 
 buildings ; these latter have very thick walls as a secu- 
 rity from the earthquakes, which, though not severe, 
 are quite common here. An old church stands alone 
 upon the plain east of the town, which appeared to be 
 in a ruinous condition. Beyond this is a lagoon, said to 
 have been formerly connected with the bay, but now 
 separated from it by a sandy beach, and a grassy mea- 
 dow, about a quarter of a mile in width. The old pre- 
 sidio, or garrison, is on an elevation back of the town, 
 towards Point Pinos, and is now occupied by United 
 States troops. 
 
 Monterey has always been noted for its excellent 
 society; and although the Americans have monopo- 
 lized every other town in the State, it still preserves 
 much of its original character. The old Californian or 
 Castilian families are still in the ascendancy ; but the 
 young Americans and other foreigners are making ter- 
 rible inroads upon them, and carrying off their fair 
 daughters. Many officers of the United States army 
 have married in California; and from what I heard, 
 here and at other places, others intend following their 
 example. The young seiloritas certainly possess many 
 attractions ; and although shut up in this secluded 
 part of the world, without the advantages of a good 
 education, or of intercourse with refined society, they 
 
74 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 need not fear a comparison with our own ladies. In 
 deportment they are exceeding gentle and ladylike, 
 with all the natural grace and dignity which belong to 
 the Castilian nation. Their complexion is generally as 
 fair as the Anglo-Saxon, particularly along the sea coast, 
 with large black eyes and hair. In this respect they 
 differ much from the Mexican ladies of the interior, 
 who are generally brunettes. In form too they differ 
 from their Mexican sisters. The latter are too often 
 short and stout, while the Californian ladies are as 
 slender and delicate in form as those of our Atlantic 
 States. I was struck too with the elegance and purity 
 of their language, which presented a marked contrast 
 with the corrupt dialect spoken in Mexico. 
 
 The Californians as a people appear superior to the 
 Mexicans, which may be attributed to two causes. 
 Both countries, it is true, were colonized by the same 
 race ; but I think a superior class of men came to Cali- 
 fornia, who have preserved their Castilian blood from 
 all admixture with that of the aborigines. There were, 
 doubtless, fewer of the poorer class too who came 
 here, owing to the greater length and cost of the jour- 
 ney, and the increase by immigration has been trifling 
 since. The original colonists possessed large tracts of 
 lands, and have ever since continued in an isolated 
 state, marrying among themselves, and enjoying a life 
 of luxury and ease. The climate, unlike that of Mex- 
 ico, is healthy and invigorating; while the humid 
 atmosphere of the coast gives a fairness and brilliancy 
 to the complexion unknown to the dry and burning 
 plains of Mexico. 
 
 Although San Francisco will always rank first in 
 
TO SAN DIEGO. 75 
 
 the scale of Californian cities, by reason of its superior 
 harbor and great commercial facilities, Monterey will 
 become the residence of gentlemen of fortune, on 
 account of its more genial climate and its distance from 
 the noise and bustle of a great city. It will be to San 
 Francisco what Newport is now to New York. 
 
 The following account of Monterey was written by 
 the Reverend president of the California missions, F. Ju- 
 nipero Serra, to his biographer, Father Palou, in a letter 
 announcing his arrival at this place. It appears that 
 an expedition sent by land to Monterey failed to reach 
 it, but found San Francisco ; and that subsequently 
 two other expeditions, one by land the other by water, 
 were sent in search of it. In the latter of these was 
 Father Junipero. He thus writes :* 
 
 " Long live Jesus, Mary, and Joseph! 
 
 " Reverend Father, Professor, and President, Fr. 
 Francisco Palou : 
 
 "My dearest Friend and Sir: — On the 31st of May, 
 by the favor of God, after a painful voyage of a month 
 and a half, the packet San Antonio, commanded by 
 Don Juan Peres, arrived and anchored in this horrible 
 port of Monterey, which is the same, unaltered in 
 appearance and condition, that it was when visited 
 by the expedition of Don Sebastian Viscayno, in the 
 year 1603. It gave me great satisfaction to learn that 
 eight days previous the land expedition had arrived, 
 and with it Father Juan, and that all were in good 
 health. When the holy day of Pentecost arrived, 
 
 * Relacion Historica de la Viola y apostolicas Tareas del padre Fray 
 Junipero Serra, por Fr. Francisco Palou, p. 101. Mexico, 1 787. 
 
76 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 which was on the 3d of June, the whole of the officers, 
 naval as well as military, and all the people, assembled 
 together in a small ravine, where the Fathers caused 
 an altar to be erected, and the bells to be rung. They 
 then chanted the Vent Creator, blessed the water, 
 erected and blessed a grand cross and the royal stand- 
 ards, and chanted the first mass that was ever per- 
 formed in this place. We afterwards sung the Salve 
 to our Lady, before an image of the most illustrious 
 Virgin, which occupied the altar, and then I preached 
 a sermon. We concluded the festival with a Te Deum. 
 After this the officers took possession of the coun- 
 try in the name of our Lord the King, whom God pre- 
 serve. We all dined together in a shady place on the 
 beach ; the whole ceremony being accompanied by 
 many volleys and salutes, on the land as well as from 
 the vessels. To God alone be the honor and glory! 
 
 "With regard to the former expedition, its not 
 finding the port of which it was in search, and having 
 asserted that it did not exist, I will express no opinion, 
 and will not judge of their motives. It is enough to 
 say, that it has been found, and the duty performed, 
 although rather late. This I desire may be made 
 known to the Visitor General, and to all those who feel 
 an interest in this spiritual conquest. 
 
 "Mission of San Carlos de Monterey. June, the 
 day of San Antonio Padua, 1770. 
 
 "I kiss your hands, etc. 
 
 "FR. JUNIPERO SERRA." 
 
 April Iftth. This morning I got a horse and rode 
 out to the Mission of San Carlos, on the river Carmel, 
 
TO SAN DIEGO. 77 
 
 four miles from Monterey. The ride was a delightful 
 one over gentle hills, and through valleys with beauti- 
 ful grassy slopes, thickly wooded with pine, fir, and oak 
 trees. The whole country about Monterey presents 
 a most pleasing prospect to the eye, after seeing the 
 parched and barren hills along the coast. 
 
 The Mission establishment, which consists of a church 
 and the usual accompaniments of a large inclosure with 
 ranges of small buildings, stands upon a little elevation 
 between the hills and the sea, from which it is distant only 
 a few hundred yards. The church which is built of stone, 
 has two towers, containing six bells ; its walls are very 
 thick, with an arched roof, and supported by heavy but- 
 tresses. The towers, as usual, differ. The adobe build- 
 ings near, were all in a state of ruin, and tenantless ; 
 not a human being was to be seen near, while the rank 
 grass and weeds which monopolized the ground, showed 
 that even curiosity did not often tempt visitors to its 
 deserted precincts. One corner of the church began to 
 show the ravages of time : its cornice had fallen, and 
 weeds had already taken root among its opening crevices. 
 The remains of an orchard and vineyard, are still seen 
 near, in a decaying state. Small pine trees cover the 
 hills within a short distance of the church ; and on its 
 other side, the ocean rolls up its waves with a dull mo- 
 notonous sound, which adds to the solitary feeling of 
 the place. 
 
 Near by, the river Carmel, a diminutive stream, to 
 which the appellation of brook would be more appro- 
 priate, emerges from a valley between two high ranges 
 of grass-covered hills, and falls into the sea. Up this 
 valley I noticed ploughed fields and ranchos ; beyond 
 
78 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 it higher mountains arise, completely shutting in the 
 river on the East. 
 
 This Mission was for some time the residence of the 
 Fathers Juniper Serra, and Francisco Palou, two of the 
 most distinguished of the early Catholic missionaries in 
 California. When Father P. Font arrived in Monterey, 
 in 1777, from Sonora, in Mexico, with a body of men to 
 strengthen the Colony at that place, he says the " Fa- 
 ther President, F. Junipero Serra, with four other priests, 
 came from the mission of San Carlos to welcome us, 
 and we chanted mass in thanksgiving for our safe 
 arrival ;" and it " was determined that we should go to 
 the mission of Carmel, as there were no lodgings for us 
 here."*. . He states that there were seven priests 
 at the mission, that it was "an excellent spot, and the 
 land very fertile." 
 
 April 17 th. Set sail from Monterey in the U. S. 
 revenue cutter Frolic, Captain Ottinger. The wind 
 was ahead and light ; so that by dark we were scarcely 
 beyond Point Pinos, so named from the pines which 
 grow upon it, and which distinguish it from the barren 
 head-lands on the Californian coast. 
 
 April IStJi. At sea. With a fresh breeze from the 
 north-west, we scudded along finely. It is necessary 
 to keep at a distance from the land, as there are no 
 light-houses on the coast. 
 
 April ISth. Hailed the Pacific mail-steamer North-* 
 erner as she passed us, and put letters on board for the 
 United States, as we should be too late for the mail at 
 San Diego. Towards evening the winds died away, 
 
 * Manuscript Relation, in the possession o f the author. 
 
TO SAN DIEGO. 79 
 
 leaving us within a quarter of a mile of Point Concep- 
 tion. This is a plateau extending a couple of miles 
 beyond the coast range of mountains. Saw two or three 
 ranchos, surrounded by clusters of trees, and large num- 
 bers of cattle grazing upon the declivities of the moun- 
 tains and upon the plain, which, to judge from its bril- 
 liant green hue, was covered with rich grass. In the 
 night, the wind came around from the north-east with 
 a thick fog. 
 
 April 20th. The northern point of the island of 
 Santa Rosa, bore south six miles. Light winds and 
 calms during the day. At 2 p. m. the steamer Active, 
 of the Coast Survey, passed us. At nine, saw a light 
 ahead and pursued it for an hour or more, thinking the- 
 vessel it was in might prove a smuggler. Finally came- 
 up with and hailed her ; when she was found to be a, 
 small craft bound to the islands in search of sea-lions, 
 which abound there, and are taken for the oil they 
 furnish. 
 
 April 21st. Light winds during the day, with fog 
 and haze. Could discover no current. Reached San 
 Pedro at 9 p. m.,, and came to anchor. The wind blew 
 quite fresh from the north-west during the night. 
 
 April 22d. San Pedro is an open bay or roadstead, 
 about fifteen miles across from the two points which 
 bound it, and scarcely deserves the name of a harbor. 
 It is exposed to the prevailing winds, and affords no 
 protection save on the east and north. When caught 
 with a southerly gale, vessels are obliged to stand across 
 to the islands of Catalina, twelve miles distant, for safe- 
 ty. It is the Port of Los Angeles, twenty-nine miles 
 distant, and contains but two houses. These are quite 
 
80 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 large, being used as warehouses for merchandise, as 
 well as for dwellings. Vessels stop here for water, 
 which has to be carted from a distance of three miles. 
 Many also provide themselves here with beef, which 
 is furnished at a less rate than at other places. 
 
 I was desirous to visit Los Angeles for the purpose 
 of buying mules, which were scarce and high at San 
 Diego. Soon after breakfast I went on shore with 
 Captain Ottinger, and we both took the stage then 
 about to start for Los Angeles. There were twelve 
 passengers to go, who filled two ordinary lumber wag- 
 ons, each drawn by four mules. On leaving the 
 coast, the road was somewhat hilly for a few miles. 
 Passed several lagoons about three miles from San 
 Pedro, in which were large numbers of ducks, plover, 
 curlew, and snipe, embracing varieties which I had 
 not before seen ; on leaving these, we entered upon a 
 broad plain, which extended as far as the eye could 
 reach, unbroken by hill or tree. This plain, the surface 
 of which was slightly undulating, was covered with 
 luxuriant grass and clover ; and sometimes a patch of 
 yellow mustard, growing to the height of five or six 
 feet, filled a space of a mile or two. Flowers of bril- 
 liant hues were thickly scattered over the plain, giving 
 it here and there a tingle of purple, orange, or yellow. 
 In every direction, the eye fell upon large herds of 
 cattle and horses luxuriating on the rich grass ; so 
 numerous were they, that at one time there could not 
 have been less than ten thousand head in sight. 
 
 It was here that a skirmish took place between Com- 
 modore Stockton, or a party sent by him, and the Cali- 
 fornians ; but from what I could learn, it was little 
 
TO SAN DIEGO. 81 
 
 more than a running fight, in which no great harm was 
 done by either party. 
 
 We reached " La Ciudad de los Angeles," the City 
 of Angels, at 4 o'clock, and put up at the "Bella 
 Union," a very indifferent hotel. At the most misera- 
 ble tavern in the back woods, I have found better 
 accommodations than at this place. 
 
 After dinner, I called at the office of the " Los An- 
 geles Star," to obtain a file of the paper, which contains 
 a series of articles on the Californian Indians. Mr. 
 Rand, one of the editors, cheerfully complied with my 
 request, and gave me the papers I desired. I also met 
 Mr. Hayes here, a gentleman connected with the bar, 
 who, with Mr. Rand, manifested much interest in the 
 objects of my inquiry; and Mr. Hayes kindly offered 
 to accompany me to the mission of San Gabriel, twelve 
 miles distant, where resided Mr. Hugo Reid, the author 
 of these papers. These gentlemen informed me that 
 Mr. Reid was better acquainted with the Indians of that 
 portion of the State than any other person. With the 
 hope therefore of obtaining more information on this 
 subject, I gladly accepted the proposal of Mr. Hayes ; 
 and we agreed to set off for the Mission as soon as 
 horses could be procured. 
 
 After waiting two hours, the horses promised Mr. 
 Rand were still not forthcoming ; we were therefore 
 compelled to give up our ride this afternoon, and post- 
 pone it until morning. I regretted this, as I had in- 
 tended to pass the evening at the Mission, and return 
 in the morning in time to take the stage back to San 
 Pedro. The horses were promised to be saddled and 
 at the door by 5 o'clock in the morning. 
 
 VOL. II. — 6 
 
82 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 Spent the hour that remained before dark in walk- 
 ing oyer the hills with Mr. Hayes. Los Angeles is situ- 
 ated in one of the finest agricultural districts in the 
 State. It has at various times contained from fifteen 
 hundred to two thousand inhabitants, and was formerly 
 a place of much wealth. There are many large haci- 
 endas and ranchos in the valley, which is in a high state 
 of cultivation, abounding in orchards and vineyards. 
 Judging of the wine I saw, and the imperfect mode fol- 
 lowed in producing it, there is no doubt that an article 
 of superior quality might be made here in abundance. 
 
 I saw more Indians about this place than in any 
 
 part of California I had yet visited. They were chiefly 
 
 " Mission Indians," i. e. those who had been connected 
 
 with the missions, and derived their support from them 
 
 until the suppression of those establishments. They 
 
 are a miserable squalid-looking set, squatting or lying 
 
 about the corners of the streets, without occupation. 
 
 They have now no means of obtaining a living, as their 
 
 lands are all taken from them ; and the missions for 
 
 which they labored, and which provided after a sort 
 
 for many thousands of them, are abolished. No care 
 
 :seems to be taken of them by the Americans; on the 
 
 contrary, the effort seems to be, to exterminate them 
 
 .as soon as possible. One of the most intelligent of 
 
 -them, who was brought to me by the kindness of my 
 
 friends here, was unacquainted with the name of the 
 
 tribe to which he belonged, and only knew that it had 
 
 been attached to certain missions. I obtained from 
 
 him a vocabulary, which I found on examination, to be 
 
 the Diegeno language, with some words different from 
 
 that obtained at San Diego. * 
 
TO SAN DIEGO. 83 
 
 April 3d. Up at daylight, to reach the Mission of 
 San Gabriel by breakfast- time ; but the horses were 
 not ready, as promised. After waiting three hours, 
 we concluded to breakfast here. The horses at last 
 were brought, the only excuse for the delay being that 
 they could not be caught before. It now began to rain ; 
 but hoping that it would not continue, we set off, 
 Mr. Rand accompanying me. But after we had got 
 about three miles, the prospect for fair weather grew 
 less encouraging ; and as we were already pretty wet, 
 we thought it best to give up the jaunt and return, 
 much to my regret. Being thus disappointed in seeing 
 the Mission, I was kindly furnished by the editors of 
 the "Los Angeles Star" with the following brief 
 account of it, which had appeared in their paper a few 
 days before : 
 
 "Situated in the midst of a fertile valley, surround- 
 ed with abundant timber, and supplied by a thousand 
 springs, with an inexhaustible flow of water, the 
 Mission of San Gabriel flourished and became exceed- 
 ingly rich. Authentic records are said to exist which 
 show that at one time the mission branded fifty thousand 
 calves, manufactured three thousand barrels of wine, 
 and harvested one hundred thousand fanegas (two hun- 
 dred and sixty-two thousand bushels) of grain a year. 
 The timber for a brigantine was cut, sawed, and fitted 
 at the mission, and then transported to and launched at 
 San Pedro. Five thousand Indians were at one time col- 
 lected and attached to the mission. They are repre- 
 sented to have been sober and industrious, well clothed 
 and fed ; and seem to have experienced as high a state 
 of happiness as they are adapted by nature to receive. 
 
84 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 " These five thousand Indians constituted a large 
 family, of which the Padres were the social, religious, 
 and we might almost say political, heads. 
 
 " Living thus, this vile and degraded race began to 
 learn some of the fundamental principles of civilized 
 life. The institution of marriage began to be re- 
 spected, and, blessed by the rites of religion, grew to 
 be so much considered that deviations from its duties 
 were somewhat unfrequent occurrences. The girls, on 
 their arrival at the age of puberty, were separated 
 from the rest of the population, and taught the useful 
 arts of sewing, weaving, carding, etc., and were only 
 permitted to mingle with the population when they 
 had assumed the characters of wives. 
 
 " When at present we look around and behold the 
 state of the Indians of this country — when we see 
 their women degraded into a scale of life too menial 
 to be even domestics — when we behold their men 
 brutalized by drink, incapable of work, and following 
 a system of petty thievery for a living, humanity can- 
 not refrain from wishing that the dilapidated Mission 
 of San Gabriel should be renovated, its broken walls 
 be rebuilt, its roofless houses be covered, and its desert- 
 ed halls be again filled with its ancient industrious, 
 happy, and contented original population." 
 
 I noticed here quantities of craw-fish, weighing 
 from two to ten pounds, which are taken in this bay. 
 We ate of them, and bought a quantity to take to 
 our friends in San Diego. Their flavor resembles that 
 of the lobster, but is so much inferior that they would 
 hardly be tolerated on the tables of the Atlantic coast. 
 
 We went on board our vessel before dark, and im- 
 
TO SAN DIEGO. 85 
 
 mediately got under way, with a strong wind from 
 the north-west. Our little craft scudded before it with 
 great speed, the log showing thirteen and a half miles 
 an hour. This continued during the night, carrying 
 us rapidly towards our place of destination. 
 
 April 24tth. Passed Point Loma at eight o'clock, 
 and before nine anchored at San Diego. The first 
 news I heard was the removal of Mr. Gray as survey- 
 or, and the appointment of Major Emory in his place. 
 This compelled me to discharge all Mr. Gray's party, 
 and commit the completion of the survey of the Gila 
 to Lieutenant Whipple, — an arrangement which re- 
 duced the party about to retrace its steps to the Rio 
 Grande about two fifths. 
 
 We now set vigorously to work to prepare for our 
 return. Our animals, which were so completely used up 
 in the journey out, had now recovered their strength, 
 with the exception of five or six, which were past 
 recovery. I had been unable to purchase any mules 
 at Los Angeles or elsewhere to the north, and was 
 compelled to depend wholly upon San Diego and its 
 vicinity to make up our deficiencies. Our camp 
 equipage had been procured in San Francisco ; but the 
 harness and pack-saddles needed mending and putting 
 in order. The wagons also required the labor of the 
 blacksmith and carpenter on them. 
 
 A few days after my return, I was waited upon by 
 Mr. Antoine Leroux, of New Mexico, the celebrated 
 guide who had conducted Colonel Cooke and his 
 brigade to California in 1846, '47, and who had a short 
 time before arrived with the exploring party under 
 Captain Sitgreaves, which he had conducted by the 
 
86 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 Zuni River to the Colorado, and thence by Fort 
 Yuma to California. Mr. Leroux now wished to re- 
 turn to New Mexico, and offered ine the services of 
 himself and two men, together with several pack and 
 riding mules, for a moderate compensation. As my 
 party was now quite reduced, and as it was necessary 
 to hire more men, I gladly accepted the proposals of 
 Mr. L., and placed the animals and arrieros directly 
 under his charge, with orders to prepare the train as 
 soon as possible for the march. 
 
 While these preparations were being made, Lieute- 
 nant Whipple and his assistants were busily occupied 
 in reducing his astronomical observations, and in plot- 
 ting the maps of the survey of the Gila as far as it had 
 been carried. Duplicates were also made of all the 
 notes connected with the survey, which were trans- 
 mitted by an officer to Washington for safe keeping. 
 For Lieutenant Whipple's E-eport of the survey of the 
 Gila, see Appendix D. 
 
 Before Captain Ottinger left, he invited me, with 
 others of the Commission, to accompany him on in 
 excursion to the Coronado Islands, a small group lying 
 twenty miles from San Diego. Some ten or twelve 
 gentlemen availed themselves of the Captain's polite- 
 ness ; and, on the morning of the 5th of May, the 
 "Frolic" stood out to sea with a north-west wind, 
 which brought us to the islands in three hours. We 
 came to anchor about a quarter of a mile east of the 
 larger and more southerly island of the group. 
 
 One party immediately went with Captain Ottin- 
 ger to examine the anchorage about the islands, while 
 the other landed. This island rises so abruptly from 
 
TO SAN DIEGO. 87 
 
 the sea, that it was with some difficulty that we could 
 find a landing place. Seeing a little nook, which the 
 dashing waters had worn away from the rocky mass, 
 we made for this, and succeeded in getting on shore. 
 From this place it required much labor to clamber 
 up the rocks for some fifty feet ; after which the 
 ascent became easy, and we met with no difficulty 
 in reaching the crest of the island, half a mile distant. 
 The island is a solid wedge-shaped rock, about five 
 hundred feet high, save at the point where we landed, 
 where it is slightly shelving. It runs north-east and 
 south-west, and is about a mile in length, by half that 
 in breadth at its widest part. Towards the northern 
 end its breadth is less than a quarter of a mile. There 
 is some soil on its surface ; yet it is entirely destitute 
 of trees. A few small shrubs are seen ; and wherever 
 there is soil, it is covered with grass and a great abun- 
 dance of wild flowers, which in certain spots are so 
 numerous, that they appear like patches of orange, 
 purple, and yellow, when seen from the water. I 
 walked across and along the whole length of the 
 island, but could descend in no place except where 
 we landed. Cacti and other plants grew among the 
 rocks, of which Mr. Thurber obtained specimens. 
 
 About a mile to the north-west is another island of 
 nearly the same dimensions as that we were upon, and 
 between them two smaller ones, or rather .two masses 
 of rocks, some fifty feet high, without any vegetation. 
 It was among these that Captain Ottinger wished to 
 examine the depth of water ; and he was gratified to 
 find excellent anchorage there. Vessels may, therefore, 
 anchor on both sides of these islands, and be well pro- 
 
00 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 tected against south-east and south-west gales. The 
 protection from the north-west winds would not be so 
 good. One of these small islands was found to be 
 covered with sea-lions, huge animals as large as an ox. 
 The creatures were asleep when the party landed, and 
 suffered themselves to be approached by the seamen, 
 who for mere sport killed several, by knocking them 
 on the head with stones. Some were believed to 
 weigh as much as one thousand two hundred pounds. 
 Some fine fish were taken by the boats ; and all were 
 again on board before dark. After starting on our 
 return, the wind died away and left us becalmed, 
 so that we did not reach San Diego until the follow- 
 ing morning. The Coronados were discovered and 
 named by Sebastian Viscaino, in the year 1602, 
 when he entered the port of San Diego. * 
 
 The harbor of San Diego abounds in excellent fish ; 
 but, owing to the deficiency of timber, there is but 
 little game. Rabbits are plentiful, and occasionally a 
 deer is brought in. On the hills near, and for many 
 miles around, grow wild oats in great profusion, fur- 
 nishing an excellent fodder for horses and cattle. The 
 other productions are wheat, barley, maize, beans, and 
 vegetables of various kinds. The climate is mild and 
 healthy. During the months of March, April, and May, 
 fogs are frequent in the morning ; and up to the 
 time when we left, there was scarcely a morning or 
 evening when a little fire was not necessary. The 
 atmosphere is at all times more moist, with much less 
 heat, than at San Francisco and the adjacent country. 
 
 * Torquemada, Monarquia Indiana, lib. v. Voyage of Viscaino. 
 
TO SAN DIEGO. 89 
 
 While the preparations were being made for our 
 journey, I made a brief visit to the Mission of San 
 Luis Rey, forty miles north of San Diego. This is the 
 latest of all the California missions, and was founded in 
 1798. It stands in a rich valley, from one to two miles 
 wide, and is about three miles from the ocean, being 
 separated therefrom by a range of hills. Of all the 
 missionary establishments in the State, this possesses 
 the most extensive as well as the most imposing struc- 
 ture. It is built of adobe, although stone and brick are 
 used in some portions of it. It faces the south, and has 
 a front of five hundred and thirty feet, the greater por- 
 tion of which exhibits a colonnade of some architectural 
 beauty, although but sixteen or eighteen feet high.* On 
 the front is also a church ninety feet in depth, with a 
 tower and dome. North and south, the dimensions are 
 upwards of six hundred feet. This vast space included 
 every thing that appertained to the mission. On the 
 south-eastern corner is a small Campo Santo. Next 
 comes the church with the priests' apartments immedi- 
 ately adjoining, and a small inclosure, or garden, shut 
 in by the church walls on one side and by the main build- 
 ing on the other. This garden was handsomely laid out, 
 and still contains a variety of fruit and ornamental 
 trees. The main building is about three hundred feet 
 square, with a colonnade in front. In the interior, is 
 an open area of the same dimensions, with a beautiful 
 colonnade all around. In the centre of this was a gar- 
 den ; but the only plant of interest that remains, is a 
 
 * The general plan of this building and its admeasurements have 
 been mislaid, so that I am unable to give the exact dimensions. 
 
90 
 
 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 pepper tree. This stands in a circular bed elevated 
 four or five feet above the area, and is protected by a 
 wall. 
 
 Mission of San Luis Key, California. 
 
 On the four sides of this extensive area are double 
 rows of apartments, some of which are very large, in- 
 cluding reception rooms, dining halls, sleeping apart- 
 ments, kitchen, &c. In the rear were corrals or inclo- 
 sures for cattle ; so that every thing appertaining to 
 this vast establishment might be brought within its 
 walls. It is all in a good state of preservation except 
 the north-west corner of the area, where the roof has 
 fallen in. Some of the cattle yards and stables are also 
 out of repair. But the church, and nearly all the apart- 
 ments occupied for dwellings, are still habitable. 
 
TO SAN DIEGO. 91 
 
 This establishment had been abandoned with most 
 of the other Californian missions ; but when the United 
 States became the possessors of the country, several 
 claimants sprang up for it, and its valuable lands adja- 
 cent, some resting on purchase, pretended or real, and 
 some on other grounds. It is said to have been pur- 
 chased by some native Californians from the govern- 
 ment about the time the country was changing owners, 
 who sold it to the Americans. Its ownership will be 
 settled by the Board of Land Commissioners appointed 
 by the United States government for the purpose. In 
 the mean time General Hitchcock, commanding the 
 Pacific Division of the U. S. Army, has placed a file of 
 soldiers here, to protect the property and keep off plun- 
 derers and squatters. 
 
 I remained here two nights, accompanied by Dr. 
 Webb and Mr. Pratt, artist of the Commission, and was 
 hospitably entertained by the Sergeant in charge ; the 
 officer in command being absent in San Diego. In 
 such a place as this, with such a range of buildings and 
 cultivated grounds, a prince or a nabob might luxuriate 
 to his heart's content. Near by is an extensive orchard 
 and garden, inclosed with high walls, and filled with 
 every variety of fruit-tree,s ; but the acequias, or irrigat- 
 ing canals, had been neglected, the dams and embank- 
 ments washed away, and the beautiful gardens and 
 shady walks, where the devotees passed the long 
 hours when not attending to their religious duties, 
 were all overflowed. A swamp filled with rushes and 
 rank weeds had taken possession of these walks and 
 groves ; and here the screaming heron and other water 
 fowl had their hiding-places. 
 
92 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 The Sergeant, at my request, sent for an old Indian 
 of the neighborhood, who called himself a chief. On 
 learning that an officer of the U. S. government wished 
 to see him, he made his appearance with three others 
 of his tribe. The old man presented himself in the 
 dress of a Mexican officer — a blue coat with red facings 
 trimmed with gold lace, and a high military cap and 
 feather. He was quite communicative, and answered 
 my questions readily. In giving me the words of his 
 language, he enunciated them with great distinctness, 
 and would not be satisfied with my pronunciation until 
 all could at once recognise the word. When I had 
 completed my vocabulary, and read off the native 
 words, he evinced great pleasure as he repeated the 
 corresponding word in Spanish, occasionally exclaim- 
 ing Bueno, or Muy Bueno ! He called his tribe the 
 Kechi. 
 
 On inquiring as to the state of things when the 
 padres were here, the old man heaved a deep sigh. 
 He said his tribe was large, and his people all happy, 
 when the good fathers were here to protect them. That 
 they cultivated the soil ; assisted in rearing large herds 
 of cattle ; were taught to be blacksmiths and carpen- 
 ters, as well as other trades ; that they had plenty to 
 eat, and were happy. He remembered when three 
 thousand of his tribe were settled in the valley, depend- 
 ent upon or connected with this mission. Now he said 
 they were scattered about, he knew not where, with- 
 out a home or protectors, and were in a miserable starv- 
 ing condition. A few hundred alone remained in some 
 villages up the valley, a few miles from the mission. 
 He spoke with much affection of Father Peyri, its 
 
TO SAN DIEGO. 93 
 
 original founder, who had resided here for thirty-four 
 years. At no time, he said, were there more than six- 
 teen Spanish soldiers here, who occupied a building 
 facing the mission, which is still standing. 
 
 Father Antonio Peyri took possession of this Mis- 
 sion of San Luis Rey (i. e. St. Louis the king) in the 
 year 1798. He first built a small thatched cottage, and 
 asked for a few cattle and Indians from the mission. 
 At the end of his thirty-four years residence, he left it 
 stocked with nearly sixty thousand head of domesti- 
 cated animals of all sorts, and yielding an annual pro- 
 duce of about thirteen thousand bushels of grain. Af- 
 ter so many years of successful labor, in which he ex- 
 pended the most valuable part of his life, the worthy 
 Father left his mission with only what he judged suffi- 
 cient means to enable him to join his convent in the 
 city of Mexico, where he threw himself upon the charity 
 of his order. The toil of managing such an establish- 
 ment, would be sufficient motive for a man of Father 
 Peyri's age to retire ; but the new order of things, which 
 had introduced new men and new measures, accele- 
 rated his resignation. Whatever his motives may have 
 been, his voluntary retirement in poverty, to spend the 
 remainder of his days in pious exercises, must be 
 applauded by the religious ; and his noble disinterest- 
 edness by all. 
 
 Mr. Alexander Forbes, who met the venerable Peyri, 
 and who has given us this account of his history, thus 
 closes his remarks on this mission, and the affection 
 entertained by the Indians for their pastor : " The best 
 and most unequivocal proof of the good conduct of 
 these Fathers, is to be found in the unbounded affec- 
 
94 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 tion and devotion invariably shown towards them by 
 their Indian subjects. They venerate them not merely 
 as friends and fathers, but with a degree of devotedness 
 approaching to adoration. On the occasion of the 
 removals that have taken place of late years, from po- 
 litical causes, the distress of the Indians in parting 
 with their pastors has been extreme. They have 
 entreated to be allowed to follow them in their exile, 
 with tears and lamentations, and with all the demon- 
 strations of true sorrow and unbounded affection. In- 
 deed, if there ever existed an instance of the perfect 
 justice and propriety of the comparison of the priest 
 and his disciples to a shepherd and his flock, it is in 
 the case of which we are treating. These poor people 
 may indeed be classed with the ' silly sheep' rather 
 than with any other animal ; and I believe they would, 
 in the words of the poet, even ' lick the hand though 
 it was raised to shed their blood ' — if this were the hand 
 of the friar."* 
 
 The harbor of San Diego is second only to that of 
 San Francisco on the Californian coast. On the north 
 and north-west, it is formed by Point Loma, a neck of 
 land which stretches far into the ocean terminated by 
 a bold bluff, one of the most prominent and well-mark- 
 ed headlands on the coast. From this the shore takes 
 an easterly direction for about four miles, when it turns 
 and runs from twelve to fifteen miles towards the south. 
 The southern and western shores of the bay, are low 
 and sandy. The south-western shore is no more than 
 a sand beach, connected by a narrow neck with the 
 
 * Forbes's California. — London, 1836, p. 230. 
 
TO SAN DIEGO. 
 
 95 
 
 main land, and for the greater portion of its length is 
 little more than a natural breakwater. The northern 
 part of this neck is more elevated and about a mile 
 
 S"^ .■:;._ 
 
 
 
 '■^K.?\WHtTNEY-0O"'-^ N ' 
 
 San Diego, California. 
 
 across. Point Loma and the northern shore of the 
 bay, is a promontory about two hundred feet high, 
 and nearly two miles wide, tapering off gradually with 
 a succession of hills as it approaches the town. These 
 hills were covered with chapporal ; their declivities, 
 both on the side of the ocean and of the harbor, being 
 cut into deep ravines. At the base on the inner side, 
 is good grazing. 
 
 The entrance to this harbor is not more than three or 
 four hundred yards wide. There is a deep channel lead- 
 ing into the inner harbor, which requires some skill in 
 
96 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 navigating ; but . when once the entrance is passed, 
 there is an abundance of water. I saw large ships 
 some six miles within this harbor, and was informed 
 that the Pacific mail steamers, and one of our frigates, 
 had also been there. An accurate survey has lately 
 been made by the United States " Coast Survey" and 
 elaborate maps published with the soundings and all 
 the bearings laid down, to enable navigators to enter it. 
 
 About half a mile from Point Loma, is the Playa, 
 or beach, where the mail steamers, and other vessels, 
 stop for coal and supplies. It is convenient of access 
 with any wind, and affords a safe anchorage. Here is 
 a small village, and the "hide houses " which have be- 
 come somewhat celebrated from the graphic account 
 of life in California, and the process of curing hides, 
 given by Mr. Dana, in his " Two Years before the 
 Mast." They still stand precisely as he describes them, 
 and are now only used as barns or store-houses. A 
 fine road along the beach leads to the old town of San 
 Diego, standing on a flat at the base of a high hill 
 which extends about two miles to the south : this flat 
 reaches more than a mile into the bay, preventing the 
 nearer approach of vessels or boats. It also extends 
 northwardly to a shallow opening on the north side of 
 the promontory before described, called " False Bay." 
 
 At San Diego, a small stream runs into the bay ; 
 but during the summer, it becomes dry. At its floods, 
 it brings down great quantities of sand, which are de- 
 posited in the channel ; whence fears of serious injury 
 to the harbor have been entertained. To obviate this, 
 it has been proposed to change the course of the river 
 to False Bay, into which it formerly run. It would no 
 
TO SAN DIEGO. 97 
 
 doubt be beneficial, and the plan is worthy the atten- 
 tion of the government. 
 
 Three miles south of San Diego is another town 
 near the shore of the bay, which was surveyed and 
 plotted by Mr. Gray, U. S. Surveyor to the Boundary 
 Commission, while on duty here. This is called '' New 
 San Diego." It consists of a few substantial frame 
 houses, and is the depot for the United States Subsist- 
 ence and the Quarter-master's Departments. A large 
 and fine wharf was built here at a great expense ; but 
 there is no business to bring vessels here, except an 
 occasional one with government stores. There is no 
 water nearer than the San Diego river, three miles dis- 
 tant. Efforts indeed are making to find it with an Ai*- 
 tesian well ; but with what success, remains to be seen. 
 There is no timber near, and wood has to be brought 
 some eight or ten miles : nor is there any arable land 
 within four miles. Without wood, water, or arable 
 land, this place can never rise to importance. At the 
 head of the bay are some good lands with pastures for 
 grazing. The bottom lands along the stream back of 
 the old town of San Diego, possess great fertility, and 
 with proper attention might be made very productive. 
 
 The admirable harbor of San Diego and its position 
 on the coast, will always make it an important stopping 
 place for shipping ; but whether the Playa or beach near 
 the entrance, the old town of San Diego, or " Gray 
 Town" as New San Diego is called by the people of the 
 old town, will have the ascendancy, remains to be seen : 
 — each has its advantages and disadvantages. 
 
 It appears from the early Spanish writers, that the 
 promontory north-west of the harbor was once well 
 
98 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 wooded ; a fact not generally known. The earliest 
 published account of this harbor, must possess an inter- 
 est for all who watch the progress of California. The 
 reader, too, will perceive, as in the case of San Fran- 
 cisco and Monterey, that the early discoverers saw the 
 great advantages of the places ; although it was left for 
 the Americans one hundred and fifty years later to avail 
 themselves of them. The United States were in pos- 
 session of California before the discovery of its gold 
 placers ; and although they have been the means of its 
 rapid advancement to the extraordinary rank it has 
 now attained, yet it is certain that, even without the 
 gold, it would sooner or later have become what it now 
 is, from its agricultural resources and great commercial 
 advantages. 
 
 Sebastian Viscaino having been employed as early 
 as the year 1594 in the " pacification and conquest of 
 California," was selected as the head of an expedition 
 fitted out for further explorations and colonization in 
 1602. After touching at various places in Lower Cali- 
 fornia, it reached the Coronados Islands. " To the 
 north of these islands," says the narrative, " on the 
 main land, is the famous harbor called San Diego, 
 which the squadron entered at seven in the evening, 
 on the 10th of December; and the day following, 
 the general ordered several persons to survey a forest 
 lying on the north-west side of the bay. This expedi- 
 tion was undertaken by Ensign Alarcon, Captain Pe- 
 guero, Father Antonio de la Ascension, and eight 
 soldiers. In this forest they found tall and straight 
 oaks and other trees, some shrubs resembling rosemary, 
 and a great variety of fragrant and wholesome plants. 
 
TO SAN DIEGO. 99 
 
 The high grounds commanded a view of the whole 
 harbor, which appeared spacious, convenient, and well 
 sheltered. The forest borders on the harbor, towards 
 the north-west, and is about three leagues in length, and 
 half a league in breadth. And to the north-west of the 
 wood is another harbor. On their return with their 
 report to the general, he ordered a tent to be pitched 
 for religious worship, and that the ships should be 
 cleaned and tallowed, the people in the mean time 
 being employed in wooding and keeping guard. They 
 had their water from a little island of sand, where they 
 dug deep trenches, in which, during the flood, the 
 water was fresh and good, but on the ebb salt. One 
 day a sentinel placed in the wood gave notice that he 
 saw a great number of Indians coming along the shore, 
 naked, and their skins daubed with black and white 
 colors, and armed with bows and arrows. On this the 
 general desired Father Antonio to go and offer them 
 peace. He was attended by Ensign Juan Francisco 
 and six soldiers. On coming up to the Indians, hav- 
 ing made signs of peace with a bit of white linen, and 
 throwing the earth up with their hands, the savages 
 immediately delivered their bows and arrows to the 
 soldiers. Father Antonio embraced them ; gave them 
 bread and necklaces, with which they were greatly 
 pleased. But on coming to the general's quarters, the 
 Indians, at the sight of such a number of men, drew 
 back to a little eminence, from whence they sent two 
 women. These approaching the general's tent with a 
 timid air, the religious and others made them presents 
 of beads, biscuits, and strings of bugles ; and then 
 dismissed them, to give their countrymen an account 
 
100 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 of the usage they had met with from the strangers. 
 Their report was doubtless very favorable ; for soon 
 after they all came with them to see the Spaniards. 
 Most of them were painted or besmeared with black 
 and white, and their heads loaded with feathers. The 
 general and others received them with great courtesy, 
 distributing among them several things, and a great 
 many fish which had been caught with the net in their 
 presence. The kind of paint they used looked like a 
 mixture of silver and blue color ; and on asking them 
 by signs what it was, they gave them a piece of metal- 
 lic ore, from whence they made it; and signified by 
 signs that a certain people up the country, who had 
 beards and were clothed like the Spaniards, made from 
 this material very fine ribbons, resembling the laces on 
 the soldiers' buff coats ; and some like that on a pur- 
 ple velvet doublet, in which the general was then 
 dressed ; adding, that these men, by their dress, com- 
 plexion, and customs, seemed to be of the same coun- 
 try with themselves. The Indians were quite trans- 
 ported with the good treatment shown them, and 
 «every third day came for biscuit and fish, bringing 
 with them skins of several kinds of beasts, as sables, 
 wild cats, and the nets with which they catch them."* 
 
 Another interesting account of San Diego is con- 
 tained in a letter written by Father Junipero Serra to 
 Father Palou, in the year 1769, when the former 
 landed here for the purpose of establishing the mis- 
 sion :f 
 
 " My dear Friend and Sir : — Thank God, I arrived 
 
 * Torquemada Monarcbia Indiana, lib. v. 
 
 f Palou. Vida de Fray Junipero Serra, p. 76. 
 
TO SAN DIEGO. 101 
 
 the day before yesterday, the first of the month, at 
 this port of San Diego, truly a fine one, and with rea- 
 son famous. Here I found those who had set out 
 before me, by sea as well as by land, excepting such 
 as died on the way. The brethren, Fathers Crespi, 
 Biscay no, Parron, and Gomez are here, and, with my- 
 self, all well, thanks be to God. Here are also two 
 vessels ; but the San Carlos is without seamen, all 
 having died except one and the cook. The San An- 
 tonio, although she sailed a month and a half later, 
 arrived twenty days before the San Carlos, losing on 
 the voyage eight seamen. In consequence of this loss, 
 the San Antonio will return to San Bias, to procure 
 seamen for herself and the San Carlos. The causes of 
 the delay of the San Carlos were, first, the want of 
 water, and, second, the error which all were in respect- 
 ing the situation of this port. They supposed it to be 
 in thirty-three or thirty-four degrees north latitude ; 
 and strict orders were given to Captain Vila and the 
 rest to keep out in the open sea till they should arrive 
 in thirty-four degrees, and then make the shore in 
 search of the port. As, however, the port in reality 
 lies in 32° 34', according to the observations which 
 have now been made, they went far beyond the port, 
 thus making the voyage much longer than was neces- 
 sary. The people got daily worse from the cold and 
 the bad water ; and they must all have perished, if they 
 had not discovered the port about the time they did; 
 for they were quite unable to launch the boat to pro- 
 cure more water, or to do any thing whatever for their 
 preservation. The Father Fernando did every thing 
 in his power to relieve the sick; and although he 
 
102 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 arrived much reduced in flesh, he had not the disorder, 
 and is now well. We have not suffered hunger or 
 privations, neither have the Indians who came with 
 us ; all have arrived fat and healthy. The track 
 through which we have passed is generally very good 
 land, with plenty of water ; and there, as well as here, 
 the country is neither rocky nor overcome with brush- 
 wood. There are, however, many hills, but they are 
 composed of earth. The road has been in many places 
 good, but the greater part bad. About half way, the 
 valleys and banks of rivulets began to be delightful. 
 We found vines of a large size, and in some cases quite 
 loaded with grapes ; we also found abundance of roses, 
 which appeared to be the same as those of Castile. In 
 fine, it is a good country, and very different from that 
 of Old California. We have seen Indians in immense 
 numbers ; and all those on this coast of the Pacific con- 
 trive to make a good subsistence on various seeds, and 
 by fishing; this they carry on by means of rafts, or 
 canoes made of tule (bulrush), with which they go a 
 great way to sea. They are very civil. All the males, 
 old and young, go naked ; the women, however, and 
 even the female children, were decently covered from 
 their breasts downwards. We found in our journey, 
 as well as in the places where we stopped, that they 
 treated us with as much confidence and good will as 
 if they had known us all their lives; but when we 
 offered them any of our victuals, they always refused 
 them. All they cared for was cloth ; and only for 
 something of this sort would they exchange their fish 
 or whatever else they had. 
 
 " From this port and intended mission of San 
 
TO SAN DIEGO. 
 
 103 
 
 Diego, in Northern California, 3d July, 1769. I kiss 
 the hands of your Reverence, and am your affectionate 
 brother and servant, 
 
 a FR. JUNIPERO SERRA." 
 
 Six miles from the town of San Diego, following 
 up the valley, is the venerable Mission of the same 
 name, a spot possessing great picturesque beauty, and 
 
 *>£« ' I'M \, 
 
 
 Mission of San Diego. 
 
 surrounded by fertile and well watered lands. It was 
 the last of the California missions that was abandoned ; 
 and but five years ago its ancient library and its 
 
104 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 priest still remained. The buildings, which are of 
 adobe, are not extensive, but are in good preservation. 
 They possess more of an Oriental appearance than 
 any similar establishments. There was formerly a 
 large vineyard and orchard, containing figs, peaches, 
 etc., a portion of which is still in existence. The 
 place is celebrated also for a flourishing orchard of 
 olive trees, which still remains, yielding a great abun- 
 dance of olives, the excellence of which we had an 
 opportunity of testing on our homeward journey. 
 The mission is at present occupied by United States 
 troops, under the command of Colonel J. B. Magruder, 
 and in consequence is kept in good repair. 
 
 San Diego, like Monterey, is noted for its excellent 
 society. There remain many of the old Castilian 
 families here, who have preserved their blood from all 
 admixture with the Indians. In this circle, all Ame- 
 ricans and foreigners visiting the place have expe- 
 rienced much pleasure ; for such is its refined and 
 social character, that one almost imagines himself 
 again enjoying the delights of home. The Californian 
 ladies are said to possess all the finer qualities of the 
 sex, whether of the head or the heart, and to make 
 most excellent wives. Such have been the attractions 
 of these fair senoritas for the young American officers, 
 that many have been induced to relinquish their com- 
 missions in the United States army, and become 
 planters or stock raisers in California. 
 
 While detained here, I took occasion to visit the 
 monument erected at the Initial Point, on the Pacific, 
 of the boundary between the United States and Mexi- 
 co, one marine league south of the southernmost point 
 
TO SAN DIEGO. 
 
 105 
 
 of the Bay of San Diego." It is an obelisk of white 
 marble, resting on a pedestal, and is about twenty feet 
 in height. It stands near the margin of the table- 
 land, about two hundred yards from the sea shore, and 
 bears the name of the Commissioner, Surveyor, and 
 Astronomer of the two governments, together with 
 the latitude and longitude, viz. : 
 
 Latitude north, 32° 31' 59" 58'; 
 
 Longitude, 7 h 48' 21" 01 west from Greenwich. 
 
 Monument at Initial Point, Pacific. 
 
 This monument stands directly opposite the Coro- 
 nado Islands, and is seen from a great distance on land 
 as well as by vessels at sea. On the table-land around 
 and south of it, grow large numbers of the beautiful 
 agave. 
 
106 RETURN FROM SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 My journey s through California were not sufficiently 
 extensive to enable me to discuss at length its agricul- 
 tural resources, nor would an essay of such a character 
 properly belong to a " personal narrative." But I saw 
 sufficient in the valleys of San Jose, Napa, Carmel, 
 near Monterey, Los Angeles, San Luis Rey, and San 
 Diego, to enable me most confidently to assert that a 
 finer agricultural country does not exist on the face of 
 the globe. Cereals of every description, wheat, maize, 
 barley, peas, rye, and oats grow to perfection, some 
 in one portion, others in other portions of the State, 
 every where yielding more than in any part of the 
 Atlantic States or the Mississippi Valley. Fruits of 
 every kind, including the grape, apples, pears, peaches, 
 plums, cherries, etc., arrive at perfection. But in 
 vegetables especially, whether we regard their variety, 
 their enormous yield, or their excellent flavor, Califor- 
 nia certainly surpasses any thing I have ever seen in 
 the United States. But the valleys I have mentioned 
 are small in comparison with the broad and magnificent 
 basins of the Sacramento and San Joachin Rivers and 
 their numerous tributaries. The head waters of the 
 San Joachin and the Tulare plains, which are yet 
 unexplored and unsettled, are said to be admirably 
 adapted to the cultivation of rice and cotton. The 
 southern part of the State is more barren, having 
 fewer streams and valleys, with little or no timber. 
 But here occur those large grassy plains or prairies, 
 such as that between the coast and Los Angeles, so 
 well adapted to the raising of cattle. East of the 
 mountains which form the continuation of the Sierra 
 Nevada is a broad sandy desert, extending from the 
 
TO SAN DIEGO. 107 
 
 head of the Gulf of California to the unexplored 
 region and great Central Basin, with which we have 
 been made acquainted by Colonel Fremont. This 
 desert is from one to two hundred miles in width, and 
 alike destitute of water and vegetation, excepting a 
 few thorny shrubs and cacti. 
 
 Before leaving California, I take this occasion to 
 acknowledge the favors rendered to the Boundary 
 Commission by the officers of the United States army 
 in California. To General Hitchcock, for the facilities 
 afforded me in my journey to the Geysers, and for an 
 escort of twenty-five men to the Pimo villages. To 
 Lieutenant Eddy, Commissary of Subsistence at San 
 Diego, for provisions furnished us during our stay in 
 the country, and for our homeward journey, as well as 
 for various acts of kindness and attention shown to the 
 members of the Commission. Also to Colonel J. Bank- 
 head Magruder, commanding at San Diego. To this 
 gentleman in particular, both personally and in behalf 
 of the government, I feel under the deepest obligation. 
 At a time when we were left without a carpenter or 
 blacksmith, and when none could be procured, this 
 officer permitted me to send to his mechanics my 
 wagons for repairs, and my animals to be shod, without 
 which aid I could not have left San Diego. In other 
 ways he was of great service to me and the Commis- 
 sion, both during our stay in the country, and while 
 preparing for the journey before us. 
 
FIFTH DIVISION. 
 
 SAN DIEGO TO EL PASO, ALONG THE GILA. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 SAN DIEGO TO ALAMO MUCHO. 
 
 Preparations for the journey to El Paso — Leave San Diego — Accident to 
 wagon — Snook's rancho — San Pasqual — Gen. Kearney's battle at this 
 place — Indian village — San Pasqual Mountain — Difficult ascent — Eeach 
 camp at Santa Isabel — Deficiency of transportation — Lerous dispatched 
 for another wagon — Indians of Santa Isabel — A Mormon arrives with 
 a wagon — List of return party — Journey resumed — Luxuriant valley — 
 San Felipe — Indians — Their mode of life — Narrow mountain pass — 
 Vallecita — Desert appearance — Carrizo creek — Increased barrenness — 
 Intense heat — Mules run away — Skeletons and carcasses of animals — 
 Immense destruction of sheep — IJtter desolation — "Wagon upset — Sack- 
 et's Well — Dig for water — Meet Lieut. Sweeney in pursuit of deserters 
 from Fort Yuma — Arrival of bearer of dispatches — Alamo Mucho. 
 
 About the middle of May the members of the Com- 
 mission left their quarters at San Diego, and encamped 
 some six miles distant near the Mission ; where there 
 was good grazing, and where the animals had been 
 chiefly kept since our arrival. They were now busily 
 engaged in completing the preparations necessary 
 before setting out on so long and difficult a journey as 
 
110 SAN DIEGO TO 
 
 that before us. It was quite doubtful whether we 
 should have sufficient means of transportation ; and to 
 make sure of this, all the provisions, tents, instruments, 
 personal baggage, etc., were sent out to the camp. Here 
 they were separated and weighed, or an estimate made, 
 so as to enable us to judge whether our two wagons 
 and twenty pack-mules would be sufficient. Uncertain 
 how long we should be in reaching El Paso, we took 
 seventy days' rations ; in addition to which were a 
 quantity of medical stores and anti-scorbutics, including 
 fruits, vegetables, pickles, etc., as these important arti- 
 cles were not to be procured on the way. 
 
 I was ill at this time with fever and ague, and 
 thought it most prudent to remain in quarters until the 
 parties had got ready to move, and in fact had passed 
 to a considerable distance into the interior, beyond the 
 reach of the fogs and humid atmosphere of the coast. 
 On the 26th, they commenced their march, intending 
 to stop at Santa Isabel, fifty-six miles distant, where I 
 was to join them. 
 
 Several days before this, I sent off twelve head of 
 beef-cattle belonging to the Commission, with an escort 
 of six soldiers, with orders to remain at Fort Yuma 
 until my arrival. This plan was recommended to me, 
 as the cattle could not keep up with us after reaching the 
 great desert ; and when they entered upon that much 
 dreaded region, it was thought best that they should 
 not stop, but keep on day and night until water was 
 reached. A number of cattle were sent at the same 
 time to supply the garrison at Fort Yuma. 
 
 For my journey, I had provided myself with a small 
 wagon to be drawn by two mules, and a fine American 
 
ALAMO MUCHO. Ill 
 
 horse, which had been ridden across the country by 
 Mr. Gray. All the other members of the Commission, 
 as also the laborers, servants, cooks, and arrieros, were 
 provided with mules, which experience had shown to 
 be best for long journeys. They endure fatigue better 
 than horses, will thrive where horses will starve, and 
 in case of accident or emergency, may be used to carry 
 burdens or be harnessed to a team. It was with con- 
 siderable difficulty that I could procure good mules 
 here ; and for those that I obtained, I paid from seven- 
 ty-five to one hundred dollars each. Nearly every 
 thing we had, including the tents, was new, our former 
 equipments having been to a great extent abandoned 
 on the journey out, as the animals failed, or as they 
 had become past restoring, from eighteen months' use, 
 and constant exposure to a dry heat, rain, or snow. 
 
 On the 26th of May, T left San Diego, in company 
 with Dr. Webb, in my small wagon, drawn by two 
 mules. These excellent animals, I must observe, were 
 the same that I started with from the coast of Texas in 
 September, 1850. They had served me in my rapid 
 journey to El Paso, and three times back and forth 
 from that place to the Copper Mines. They had drawn 
 my carriage in my first journey to Sonora, and subse- 
 quently, with four others, brought a loaded wagon from 
 the Copper Mines to San Diego. Notwithstanding 
 these journeys and their constant use since we had been 
 in California, they were in as fine condition as when 
 they left the shores of the Atlantic. 
 
 My wagon was pretty heavily laden ; and ere we 
 had got a mile beyond San Diego, in turning aside for 
 a train, it ran into a gully with such force as to spring 
 
112 SAN DIEGO TO 
 
 the wooden axle-tree and bend the iron one. The 
 injury did not appear to be serious ; and as the road, 
 though hilly, was very good, we hastened on. But 
 this little accident, trifling as it seemed at first, proved 
 a constant source of annoyance to us throughout the 
 journey, 
 
 Ten miles from San Diego, is Soledad hill, which is 
 very steep and difficult to pass. One of our loaded 
 wagons had upset here a few days before. The whole 
 country hereabouts is hilly, and destitute of trees, 
 except in the small valleys, where the accumulation of 
 water after rains has sustained a few mezquit trees. 
 The hills on both sides, and as far as the eye can reach, 
 are covered with a thick growth of wild oats. Several 
 families have lately settled here, who make a profitable 
 business of cutting these oats and carrying them to 
 market at San Diego, where they are in good demand. 
 In the afternoon, we reached San Pasqual River, a small 
 and limpid stream, running through a rich valley 
 covered with fine grass, and in which hundreds of cat- 
 tle were grazing. About a mile in advance, we saw a 
 large rancho, to which we directed our course, having 
 been invited to pass the night there. This was the 
 hacienda of Mrs. Snooks, a California lady, the widow 
 of an Englishman, who now resides at San Diego. 
 Word having been sent to the family occupying the 
 rancho that I would stop here, we met with a hospitable 
 reception, and were provided with an excellent supper 
 and beds. This was formerly one of the largest stock- 
 raising establishments in the country; but the high 
 price of cattle at San Francisco has induced the owner to 
 drive them thither for sale. There were, however, still, 
 
ALAMO MUCHO. 113 
 
 many hundreds remaining. The distance to San Diego 
 is called thirty-six miles. 
 
 San Pasqual was the scene of an action between 
 the United States troops and those of Mexico during 
 the late war. Our army was at one time in a perilous 
 situation, from which it was relieved by assistance sent 
 by Commodore Stockton, then at San Diego. I add 
 in a note Colonel Kearney's brief report of this affair.* 
 
 May 29th. At seven o'clock, we took leave of our 
 hospitable friends ; and continuing across the plain and 
 
 Head Quarters, Army of the West, 
 
 San Diego, California, Dec. 13, 1846. 
 
 *"Sir: In my communication to you of yesterday's date, T 
 
 brought the report of the movements of my guard up to the evening 
 
 of the 5th instant, in camp near a rancho of Mrs. Snooks, about forty 
 
 miles from San Diego." 
 
 * * # % >k % 
 
 After giving the details of his position, and of his officers, the Gen- 
 eral thus proceeds : 
 
 " As the day (December 6) dawned, we approached the enemy at 
 San Pasqual, who was already in the saddle, when Captain Johnston 
 made a furious charge upon them with his advanced guard, and was in 
 a short time after supported by the dragoons, soon after which the 
 enemy gave way, having kept up from the beginning a continual fire 
 upon us. Upon the retreat of the enemy, Captain Moore led off ra- 
 pidly in pursuit, accompanied by the dragoons mounted on horses, and 
 was followed, though slowly, by the others on their tired mules. The 
 enemy, well mounted, and among the best horsemen in the world, after 
 retreating about half a mile, and seeing an interval between Captain 
 Moore with his advance and the dragoons coming to his support, ral- 
 lied their whole force, charged with their lances, and, on account of 
 their greatly superior numbers, but few of us in front remained un- 
 touched. For five minutes they held the ground from us, when our 
 men coming up, we again drove them, and they fled from the field not 
 to return to it, which we occupied and encamped upon. A most mel- 
 VOL. II. — 8 
 
114 SAN DIEGO TO 
 
 along the valley near the river, we reached, in six 
 miles, the Indian village of San Pasqual, consisting of 
 forty or fifty rude huts of mud, grass, and poles. A 
 few patches of ground seemed to be cultivated ; but, 
 
 ancholy duty now remains for me : it is to report the death of my aide- 
 de-camp, Captain Johnston, who was shot dead at the commencement 
 of the action ; of Caj^tain Moore, who was lanced just previous to the 
 final retreat of the enemy ; and of Lieutenant Hammond, also lanced, 
 and who survived but a few hours. We had also killed, two sergeants, 
 two corporals, and ten privates of the First Dragoons, one private of 
 Volunteers, and one man attached to the Topographical Department. 
 Among the wounded are myself (in two places), Captain Gillespie, and 
 Captain Gibson, of the Volunteers ; one sergeant, one bugler, and nine 
 privates of the Dragoons; many of them receiving from two to ten 
 lance wounds, most of them when unhorsed, and incapable of resistance. 
 Our howitzers were not brought into action ; but coming to the front at 
 the close of it, before they were turned so as to admit of being fired 
 upon the retreating enemy, the two mules before one of them got 
 alarmed, and, freeing themselves from their drivers, ran off among the 
 enemy, and were thus lost to us. The enemy proved to be a party of 
 about one hundred and sixty Californians, under Andreas Pico, brother 
 of the late Governor. The number of their dead must have been con- 
 siderable ; though I have no means of ascertaining how many, as just 
 previous to their final retreat they carried off all excepting six. The 
 great number of killed and wounded proves that our officers and men 
 have fully sustained the high character and reputation of our troops ; 
 and the victory thus gained over more than double our force may as- 
 sist in forming the wreath of our national glory. I have to return my 
 thanks to many for their gallantry and good conduct on the field, and 
 particularly to Captain Turner, First Dragoons, and to Lieutenant 
 Emory, Topographical Engineers, who were active in performance of 
 their duties in conveying orders from me to the command. 
 
 " On the morning of the seventh, having made ambulances for our 
 wounded and interred the dead, we proceeded on our march, when the 
 enemy showed himself, occupying the hills in our front, which they 
 left as we approached, till reaching San Bernardo, a party of them took 
 
ALAMO MUCHO. 115 
 
 on the whole, the place bore a miserable appearance. 
 Few Indians were seen, as they were still indulging in 
 sleep. 
 
 Crossing the San Pasqual River again, we reached 
 the base of the hill, or rather mountain, of the same 
 
 possession of a hill near to it, and maintained their position till 
 attacked by our advance, who quickly drove them from it, killing and 
 wounding five of their number, with no loss on our part. 
 
 " On account of our wounded men, and upon the report of the sur- 
 geon that rest was necessary for them, we remained at this place till 
 the morning of the 11th, when Lieutenant Gray, of the navy, in com- 
 mand of a party of sailors and marines, sent out from San Diego by 
 Commodore Stockton, joined us. We j>roceeded at ten a. m., the enemy 
 no longer showing himself, and on the 12th we reached this place ; and 
 I have now to offer my thanks to Commodore Stockton, and all of his 
 gallant command, for the very many kind attentions we have received 
 and continue to receive, from 'them. 
 
 " Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 
 (Signed) S. W. KEARNEY, 
 
 Brigadier General, U. S. A. 
 " Brigadier General R. Jones, 
 
 " Adjutant General, U. S. A." 
 
 " The eminent services of Commodore Stockton," says Lieutenant 
 Revere, " at this most important and critical juncture, can hardly be too 
 highly extolled. While the party press at home were making free with 
 his proclamations, and denouncing the decided course which he had 
 taken the responsibility to adopt, those who were at the seat of war re- 
 garded him as the sheet anchor of their hopes, and were able to see 
 that his whole conduct was suited to the emergency which had 
 arisen. To his gallantry, wisdom, sagacity, and prudence, to his 
 timely and energetic measures, the people of the United States are 
 chiefly indebted for the rapid and final suppression of the Californian 
 insurrection, which at once and for ever sealed the destiny of the most 
 magnificent and opulent territory in the world." — Tour in California, 
 p. 171. 
 
116 SAN DIEGO TO 
 
 name, the terror of all travellers when accompanied 
 by wagons. We had heard much of this hill, and 
 were fully prepared to undertake the labor of passing 
 it. To keep our seats in the wagon was out of the 
 question ; so we all got out, and literally put our 
 shoulders to the wheels. The driver, while he held 
 the reins, braced up the wagon to prevent its upset- 
 ting, and Dr. Webb and myself alternately pushed 
 behind or chocked the wheels. The mules tugged 
 with all their strength, and we moved steadily though 
 slowly on, stopping every forty or fifty feet to let the 
 animals rest. The road pursued a zig-zag course, 
 winding along the side and around the hill, which 
 somewhat lessened the difficulty of the ascent. But 
 the steepness was not the greatest difficulty to en- 
 counter. This consisted in the " sidling" places, where 
 the wagon could not stand upright, and required to be 
 held up with ropes while ascending or descending. 
 Then, again, portions of the road were very rocky, 
 and much gullied by running water. Occasionally 
 there was a cessation of hills, and a short piece of good 
 road ; but then soon came descents, which were at- 
 tended with more trouble than the ascents; for the 
 wheels had to be locked, and the wagon held up with 
 ropes. 
 
 In this way we journeyed the whole day with little 
 variation. San Pasqual forms part of a high mountain 
 ridge running north and south. From its summit we 
 had a fine view of the surrounding country, though 
 lesser hills extended far along its base. I have no 
 doubt that a closer reconnoissance of the country would 
 make known a more practicable route than this, by 
 
ALAMO MUCHO. 117 
 
 avoiding such a frightful mountain. It answers well 
 enough for pack-mules, for which I presume it was 
 constructed ; but it was never attempted to be passed 
 with wagons until Colonel Cooke crossed it in 1847. 
 A variety of trees and shrubbery grow along the road, 
 with the greatest abundance and variety of wild 
 flowers, for the most part, as is usual in this country, 
 of brilliant colors. 
 
 The long descent from this mountain, after the 
 higher portions had been passed, was comparatively 
 easy. We then reached valleys covered with live-oaks, 
 and affording an abundance of grass. Next, several 
 small hills, with intervening valleys and patches of 
 woodland, were passed, until we reached Santa Isabel. 
 When within a couple of miles of this place my mules 
 began to show the effects of their toilsome day's jour- 
 ney, and the wagon was nearly disabled. Fearing 
 they would not get in, I took my servant's mule and 
 hastened on to our camp, which I reached at seven 
 o'clock, and sent two fresh mules back to the assist- 
 ance of my party. Soon after Dr. Webb came in, and 
 reported that the axle-tree had given out, and the 
 wagon could proceed no further ; so that it was neces- 
 sary to send pack-mules to bring in its contents, and 
 also provisions for the men. I now took possession of 
 my tent with its appurtenances, and sat down to an 
 .excellent supper, prepared in anticipation of my com- 
 ing. It was pleasing to find myself once more in a 
 tent for the first time since I was taken ill at Ures. It 
 was invariably the case, that we all enjoyed better 
 health when in camp and on our march, than when 
 shut up in quarters with little or nothing to do. An 
 
118 SAN DIEGO TO 
 
 active, moving life in the open air always brings with 
 it a good appetite and sound sleep, and is the surest 
 antidote to, or rather preventive of, disease. Distance 
 travelled to-day, twenty-two miles. 
 
 I found my party encamped a mile beyond the 
 Indian village of Santa Isabel, in one of the most lovely 
 groves of large branching oaks that it had ever been 
 our fortune to meet with. It is closely hemmed in on 
 three sides by high hills, all of which are thickly 
 wooded, while a clear mountain stream passes directly 
 through it. Grass in abundance grew all around 
 us, on which our mules were luxuriating. The tents 
 were all pitched beneath trees, and but a few feet 
 from the stream to which I have alluded. 
 
 Soon after I arrived, Colonel Craig, commander 
 of the escort, called and reported his men ready for 
 our march. He had been furnished by Colonel Magru- 
 der with six additional soldiers, who were to accom- 
 pany us to Fort Yuma. Lieutenant Whipple was 
 occupied during the evening in taking astronomical 
 observations, as the weather was now clear and plea- 
 sant, a very perceptible change having taken place 
 since we left the coast. 
 
 Soon after the train had left its camp near the Mis- 
 sion of San Diego, it was reported to me by Mr. Thur- 
 ber (who acted as Quarter-Master in addition to his 
 other duties), that another wagon would be absolutely 
 necessary. I accordingly directed that he should send 
 Mr. Leroux at once to the Mormon settlement at San 
 Bernardino, about a hundred miles distant, to purchase 
 a wagon from some of the recently arrived emigrants, 
 and should await his return at Santa Isabel. Mr. Leroux, 
 
ALAMO MUCHO. 119 
 
 who but a short time previous had been to that place, 
 and knew many of the Mormons, set off on his errand. 
 
 May oOth. Remained in camp. Got my wagon in, 
 and made a new wooden axle-tree. Found the iron 
 portion much bent and very weak. Lashed the two 
 strongly together with rawhide. 
 
 Santa Isabel is an Indian village, and was once a 
 place of some note, when the missionary establishments 
 were in the ascendancy. A roofless church and a few 
 miserable huts, are now all that remain. Nevertheless, 
 the inhabitants cultivate the soil, and by means of irri- 
 gation, which they well understand, raise wheat, maize, 
 pumpkins, and beans. The vine succeeds very well 
 here, and was formerly cultivated to a considerable ex- 
 tent. The land near is very fertile, which had induced 
 some Americans to select it for their homes. The long 
 neglected fields were being turned up, which gave 
 the valley a pleasant appearance. Several of the In- 
 dians, who belong to the Diegeno tribe, visited our 
 camp to-day. They were dressed in their holiday 
 clothes, such as red and white shirts ; while the chief 
 Tomaso, who seemed an intelligent man, wore an old 
 coat trimmed with silver lace, which had once belonged 
 to some Mexican officer. 
 
 May 31st. Remained in camp. In the afternoon 
 Mr. Leroux returned, accompanied by a wagon, which 
 was driven by its owner, a Mormon, named Smithson. 
 After paying him, I invited him to remain with us over 
 night, as he had had a fatiguing day's journey. We 
 were much amused during the evening in listening to 
 the history of our Mormon friend, who also enlightened 
 us with a lecture on the peculiar doctrines of his sect. 
 
120 SAN DIEGO TO 
 
 He seemed a harmless, though zealous man, ardent in 
 his religious belief, and was I should think, a fair spe- 
 cimen of his fraternity. His people had lately pur- 
 chased the extensive haciendas and buildings at San 
 Bernardino, covering several miles square, for seventy 
 thousand dollars, one half of which amount they had 
 paid in cash. This is one of the richest agricultural 
 districts in the State, and is said to have been a great 
 bargain. 
 
 June 1st In consequence of the heat, I deferred 
 leaving until 6 o'clock in the evening. As the party 
 was now got together, I give the names of those com- 
 posing it. 
 
 John It. Bartlett, Commissioner. 
 
 Thomas H. Webb, m. d. Secretary and Surgeon. 
 
 George Thurber Quarter-Master, Commissary, 
 
 and Botanist 
 
 Henry C. Pratt, Draughtsman and Artist 
 
 Malcolm Seaton, Assistant Surveyor. 
 
 Antolne Leroux, In charge of Pack-mules • 
 
 with servants, cooks, arieros, and teamsters. We had 
 but two wagons, the remainder of our camp-equipage 
 and provisions being transported by pack-mules. Dr. 
 Webb and myself, rode in a small wagon, which I 
 bought in San Francisco, and which turned out to be a 
 very poor affair, made to sell, and not for such a jour- 
 ney as lay before us. We also had riding animals for a 
 change, and in case of accident to the wagon. 
 
 The party to complete the survey of the Gila, was 
 as follows : 
 
 Lieut. A.W.Whipple, Corps Topographical Engineers, 
 
 Astronomer in command. 
 
ALAMO MUCHO. 121 
 
 Hugh Campbell, 1st Assistant. 
 
 Frank Wheaton, Topographer and Assistant 
 
 -Henry C. Force, Assistant. 
 
 John J. Pratt, Do. 
 
 John O'Donoghue, Computer. 
 
 Charles A. Gicquel, Instrument carrier • 
 with flag-bearers, attendants on instruments, laborers, 
 servants, cooks, arrieros, and teamsters, making altoge- 
 ther about twenty-five men. This party had both 
 wagons and pack-mules as well as myself; and all, both 
 officers and attendants, were mounted on mules or 
 horses. 
 
 Lieut. Colonel L. S. Craig commanded the escort, 
 now reduced by desertion to five men of his own com- 
 mand, with a detail of ten men from that of Colonel 
 Magruder, at San Diego. 
 
 The entire party embraced six wagons, twenty -five 
 pack-mules, and about fifty officers and men, mounted. 
 June 1st. The clay being very hot, we did not 
 strike our tents and leave camp until 6 o'clock, p. m., 
 when Colonel Craig and myself led the way. The road 
 was very good along the valley where it was level ; but 
 there were many deep gullies, which required the use 
 of ropes to keep the wagons in an erect position. Our 
 course had been north-east. The scene changed as we 
 passed around the spur of the ridge which bounded the 
 eastern part of the valley. Here a broad plain opened 
 to us, with but few trees, although well covered with 
 grass. Our course now lay south-east. The moon 
 rose remarkably bright ; and, with a cool and comfort- 
 able night, we jogged steadily along and made good 
 progress. Towards midnight we entered a thick grove 
 
122 SAN DIEGO TO 
 
 of oaks, which so closely lined the road, that it was 
 with some difficulty that we found our way through 
 them. It was a beautiful spot for an encampment, and 
 we felt quite disposed to stop; but we knew of no 
 water near. The grass, too, was quite sparse. We there- 
 fore pushed on to the Indian village of San Felipe, near 
 which we encamped at 2 o'clock in the morning. I 
 immediately threw myself down and enjoyed a delight- 
 ful sleep, such as none can appreciate but those who 
 have tried a camp life. Distance travelled, twenty- 
 eight miles. 
 
 June 2d. Found ourselves in a valley without 
 woods, in the lower part of which was a marshy spot 
 with pools of water. Early in the morning our tents 
 were thronged with Indians, who appeared to belong 
 to the Diegeno tribe. They were a filthy looking set, 
 half clad and apparently half starved. During the day, 
 we saw many men and women wading about the marsh 
 gathering roots and seeds ; of which two articles and 
 acorns, their principal food consists. The women 
 seemed to be the chief laborers, the men lounging 
 about the camp most of the day. The improvidence 
 of this people seems almost incomprehensible. A very 
 little exertion would have repaid them with all the 
 wheat, maize, and vegetables, required for their sub- 
 sistence. To these they might add a few cattle, 
 which, in this country, may be obtained for a mere 
 trifle from the ranchos, whose increase in this fine val- 
 ley would give them a plentiful supply of meat. As it 
 is, they have neither corn nor meat, and spend ten times 
 as much labor in collecting the roots, seeds, and other 
 wretched food they live on, as would be necessary by 
 
ALAMO MUCHO. 123 
 
 cultivating the soil to produce bread, fruits, and meats 
 in abundance. 
 
 Their village consists of twenty-three miserable old 
 huts or wigwams built of straw and rushes. Some were 
 covered with raw hides of various colors. A few small 
 patches of ground were cultivated, not exceeding alto- 
 gether a couple of acres. This was not for the want 
 of land, as there are many hundred acres of good land 
 around them, which by irrigation could be made very 
 fertile. From appearances near the village, I was led 
 to believe that there had long been a settlement here, 
 there being not only traces of former buildings in every 
 direction, but also of acequias or trenches for irrigating 
 the lands. 
 
 At 4 p. m. struck our tents. The road continued 
 good for six or seven miles, its course still south-east. 
 The grass had now disappeared, and the thorny chap- 
 poral which had taken its place was the first indica- 
 tion that we were passing into a desert region. We 
 now entered a canon, or mountain pass, caused, like 
 most others, by the action of running water for ages. 
 This pass had been used only for mules, until Colonel 
 Cooke entered the country with wagons. Not being 
 able to get through, he was obliged to come to a 
 halt, and open a passage with axes and hammers 
 through the solid rock, a work of great labor. This 
 defile consists of perpendicular walls of rock about 
 fifteen feet high, and of a width barely sufficient for 
 wagons to pass. In its bed are large masses of rock 
 reaching to the axle-trees. At the narrowest point 
 one of our wagons stuck fast ; but after taking out the 
 mules, by dint of lifting and prying, we at length 
 
124 SAN DIEGO TO 
 
 got through. The space here was but two inches 
 wider than the axle-trees of the wagons. There were, 
 also, several steep and rocky descents where the wheels 
 had to be locked, and the wagons held back with ropes. 
 This pass was not less than three miles in length ; and 
 should two trains meet here, it would prove a serious 
 business for both. 
 
 The descent into the valley beyond, continued 
 gradual for several miles ; but at length our course was 
 stopped by a bold rocky hill running directly across it. 
 This we ascended, over a very bad road ; but bad as it 
 was, it was better than the descent, which was the most 
 perfect break-neck place that a wagon ever attempted 
 to pass. It was exceedingly steep, filled with large 
 loose rocks, with an occasional perpendicular leap of 
 three or four feet. I feared that our wagons would 
 not hold together, even if they escaped being upset. 
 But the only accident that happened, was the breaking 
 of our two remaining barometers, a very serious one 
 for the meteorological observations. 
 
 At the bottom of this hill, we continued for five or 
 six miles through a valley, with no other vegetation 
 than the usual desert plants and cacti, accompanied by 
 the great agave which seemed to luxuriate in this bar- 
 renness. At 11 o'clock, p. m., we reached Vallecita, 
 eighteen miles from San Felipe, where we pitched our 
 tents among some willows. 
 
 June 3d. Vallecita. as its name indicates, is a little 
 valley, surrounded by lofty and barren mountains. 
 Pools of sulphurous water are found among the willow 
 bushes, but not a tree was to be seen. The grass, too, 
 had changed, having here a wiry character. A depot of 
 
ALAMO MUCHO. 125 
 
 provisions is kept at this place, with a file of soldiers, 
 for the supply of Fort Yuma, and of government trains 
 passing and repassing. A few horses are also kept 
 here, to facilitate the communication between Fort 
 Yuma and San Diego. The distance between those 
 places is about two hundred and twenty-five miles, 
 and Yallecita is about half way. Beyond it, towards 
 the Colorado, there is little or no grass ; so that trains, 
 after they have crossed the desert, usually stop a day 
 or two here, to recruit their animals. 
 
 A band of Diegeno Indians live here, to whom the 
 arrival of a train is an event of some importance. They 
 made their appearance early this morning, dressed in 
 their holiday clothes, and appeared more cleanly than 
 any Indians we had seen. Nearly all wore clean white 
 or fancy calico shirts, their only garment ; pantaloons 
 being regarded by all Indians as useless articles of 
 dress. These people were formerly connected with 
 the Missions, and hence call themselves Christians ; 
 but they now live in a most degraded state of indo- 
 lence and poverty. They cultivate beans and pump- 
 kins, and pick up an occasional mule, which serves them 
 for food ; though their main reliance is upon the acorns, 
 which they collect and store up in large baskets for 
 winter use. The labor of preparing them for food is, 
 like almost all other labor, performed by the women, 
 who were to be seen in front of every hut wielding 
 their heavy stone pestles. When the acorns are re- 
 duced to flour, it is washed to remove the bitter taste, 
 and then cooked into a kind of gruel, or made into 
 bread. These Indians were very attentive to us, bring- 
 ing us wood (which is very scarce here) and water, 
 
126 SAN DIEGO TO 
 
 and otherwise assisting about the camp. They seemed 
 amply repaid with a few old clothes, or any fragments 
 of food that remained from our tables. Our culinary 
 department was always the great point of attraction 
 to these poor creatures, who would often form a double 
 circle around the camp-fires, much to the annoyance 
 of the cook. The weather was excessively hot to-day, 
 the mercury standing at 105° Fahrenheit in the shade 
 under the bushes. 
 
 Took our departure, at 6 p. m. Each mile we 
 advanced, grew more barren. The road continued 
 through deep sand or loose gravel, reminding us that 
 we had fairly entered upon the desert of which we had 
 heard so much. On leaving this valley, all traces of 
 grass disappear. A few stunted shrubs armed with 
 thorns, strove hard for an existence ; and the wonder 
 is, that any vegetable life can flourish amid such bar- 
 renness. But the cacti and agave seem to delight in 
 such arid and desert regions, as though the intense 
 heat and dry atmosphere were the vivifying influences 
 that nourish them. The bleached bones and dried 
 carcasses of oxen, mules, and sheep, began to mark our 
 road, mementos of the sufferings of former parties. The 
 moon still shone bright, while we journeyed slowly 
 on through the heavy sand for twenty miles, till, at one 
 o'clock in the morning, we arrived at Carrizo Creek. 
 I had got considerably in advance of the wagons, and 
 without waiting for them or my tent, stretched myself 
 on the bare earth (for it was so warm that a covering 
 was unnecessary), and was soon lost in sleep. 
 
 June 4,th. Carrizo Creek* is one of those remark- 
 
 * Carrizo, means reed grass (Arundo phragmites). 
 
ALAMO MUCHO. 127 
 
 able streams which sometimes spring up in. desert 
 regions. It rises in the very centre of barrenness, 
 flows for about a mile, and is again absorbed by the 
 desert. It has worn for itself a bed about fifteen feet 
 below the plain. It is from three to nine inches in 
 depth, and varies from six feet to as many yards in 
 width. Where the banks have been washed away, it 
 receives, in several places, accessions from springs ; but 
 when these cease, the stream grows less and less T until 
 it is all absorbed by the sands. In the ravine or bed 
 formed by this water, mezquit bushes grow to the 
 height of ten or twelve feet, the deep green of their 
 foliage presenting a pleasing contrast with the desola- 
 tion around, and marking the course of the stream from 
 its beginning to its end. The grass, which grows 
 in a few patches, in little nooks which receive their 
 moisture from the creek, is very coarse and wiry ; and 
 of this there is not enough to supply the few passing 
 trains that come this way. The heat here to-day was 
 insupportable, the mercury ranging at 114° in the shade. 
 The rays of the sun beat through our tents, so that we 
 could not remain in them. Some retreated beneath the 
 wagons ; while myself and others found our way into 
 little gullies or ravines beneath the clay banks, where, 
 partly sheltered by the banks and partly by bushes, we 
 passed the day. 
 
 We had much trouble here with our mules, who did 
 not like the coarse grass before them ; so that while 
 the herders thought that they were quietly trying to 
 pick up a living on the margin of the stream, they were 
 off at full speed for Vallecita, where they had a recol- 
 lection of better fare. Some were arrested in their 
 
128 SAN DIEGO TO 
 
 flight within a few miles of camp, while others were not 
 overtaken until they had reached the grassy patches 
 they were in search of. This is a common habit with 
 mules, and often impedes the progress of a train. I 
 have known them, where the grass was poor, to retrace 
 their steps twenty-five miles for the sake of finding 
 better. Experience showed us that in such places as 
 this the animals must be closely watched, and at night 
 tied up to the wagons. 
 
 We noticed a peculiarity in the water here, which 
 was that, although sweet, it did not quench the thirst. 
 We all drank incessantly without being satisfied. 
 
 As we entered the great desert here, and expected 
 to find no water, except by digging, until we reached 
 the Colorado, one hundred miles distant, we filled all 
 our kegs, canteens, empty bottles, and every thing else 
 that would hold water. 1 then directed the wasrons to 
 
 o 
 
 be loaded, the mules packed, and the train to move at 
 sunset. 
 
 I have forgotten to mention that we saw along the 
 banks of Carrizo Creek, near our camp, an innumera- 
 ble quantity of the bones and dried carcasses of sheep, 
 a rare occurrence in a region infested by hungry 
 wolves ; but numerous and hungry as the wolves are, 
 there is such a thing as satiating their appetites, and 
 of this we had an example before our eyes. Here were 
 the bodies of many thousands of sheep lying in piles 
 within the space of a hundred yards. This wholesale 
 mortality is said to have been caused by their eating of a 
 poisonous plant; but as we could find no specimens of 
 such a plant, we believed that the poor creatures, after 
 traversing the desert and being probably three or four 
 
ALAMO MUCHO. 129 
 
 days without water, had drunk themselves to death. 
 Most of the bodies were in the immediate vicinity of 
 the stream. 
 
 It was not until half-past seven o'clock, p. m., that 
 we moved from camp. The road continued heavy 
 through loose sand and stones, making it impossible 
 to move more than two miles an hour. Six or seven 
 miles brought us to a steep sand hill, which no team 
 alone could ascend. Ten mules were accordingly 
 hitched to each wagon, when by dint of tugging, and 
 a good deal of beating and hard swearing, the poor 
 animals reached the summit with their loads. One of 
 Colonel Craig's wagons was upset and rolled over and 
 over to the bottom of the hill, but fortunately escaped 
 with no other damage than that of smashing the medi- 
 cine chest ; which, however, was a loss we afterwards 
 severely felt. 
 
 This was the most desolate spot we had seen, pre- 
 senting indeed the very climax of barrenness. We 
 were surrounded in all directions by hills of clay, their 
 sides cut into deep ravines. As far as the eye could 
 reach by the light of the moon, which rose at ten 
 o'clock, not a sign of vegetation appeared. I believe 
 there had not been a day, from the time of our landing 
 on the coast of Texas till we trod the shores of the 
 broad Pacific, that we had not seen the mezquit in some 
 form, or the common prickly pear. Here they could 
 not exist. 
 
 June bill. Reached the water-holes called Sackett's 
 Wells, twenty -four miles from Carrizo, at 3 o'clock this 
 morning. Before leaving camp last night, I sent four 
 men with spades in advance, in order that they might 
 
 VOL. II. — 9 
 
130 SAN DIEGO TO 
 
 sink some holes, and have a small supply of water for 
 us on our arrival ; but as they were ignorant of the 
 place and were unfamiliar with the best indications of 
 water, they had accomplished little. Some more expe- 
 rienced hands now set themselves busily at work in an 
 arroyo, or place where there was a slight depression in 
 the desert, marked by some mezquit bushes, whose 
 freshness showed that water sometimes reached their 
 roots. After digging about six feet, the water began 
 slowly to enter ; and by dipping it up with a basin, we 
 managed to supply our animals. 
 
 The desert where we were now encamped, is an 
 open and remarkably level plain, with scarcely an 
 undulation. On the south-west, twenty miles distant, 
 is a range of lofty mountains, which forms its limit in 
 that direction. On the north and east, it is bounded 
 by the horizon, no mountains or hills being visible. 
 The soil is either a fine gravel, or loose sand. The 
 vegetation is exceedingly sparse, consisting chiefly of 
 stunted mezquit and the larrea Mexicana. Near the 
 arroyo, where water sometimes finds its way, a few 
 mezquit bushes have attained the height of ten feet, 
 whose brilliant hue is most agreeable to the eye, amid 
 so much barrenness. A little grass was found in clumps 
 about a mile from our camp in an arroyo, whither our 
 animals were sent. This, with the young shoots of 
 the mezquit, was all they had. At sunrise this morn- 
 ing, the mercury stood at 92°, and at noon 108° in 
 the shade. Distance from Carrizo Greek, twenty-five 
 miles. 
 
 Lieutenant Sweeny arrived this morning from Fort 
 Yuma in pursuit of two deserters from that post, and 
 
ALAMO MUCHO. 131 
 
 remained with us during the day, believing himself to 
 be in advance of them, and that they would stop here 
 for water. In the afternoon Mr. Jenkins reached us 
 from San Diego. He was the bearer of dispatches to 
 me from the government, having left El Paso del Norte 
 on the 19th February. He came by way of Chihua- 
 hua and Mazatlan ; and had encountered serious ob- 
 stacles on his route. As there was no party coming 
 across the country by the Gila route, he was obliged to 
 pass through Mexico, which had taken him nearly four 
 months. 
 
 As it was too hot to march at all during the day, 
 we continued as before, to make our journeys at night. 
 At 7 p. m. left camp, taking the lead as before in my 
 little wagon, with Colonel Craig riding on a mule at my 
 side, while the wagons and train followed closely be- 
 hind. The road for the first few miles was heavy ; 
 after which, we struck the hard gravel, where it was 
 so smooth that we increased our pace. After keeping 
 with me for an hour and a half, the Colonel left me, 
 saying he would ride back and see to the wagons, as 
 some of them were dropping behind. This course was 
 usual with him. He felt a heavy responsibility upon 
 his shoulders, and deemed it his duty to watch every 
 part of the train. He considered his post to be in the 
 advance ; but during every march, whether at night 
 or by day, he rode around the train, to see that all was 
 right, and that his men observed proper vigilance. At 
 11 o'clock the moon rose, when we could see our way 
 better. The pack -mules, which had been in the rear, 
 soon after came up, and, as was usual with them, pushed 
 by me. On long marches, pack-mules always increase 
 
132 SAN DIEGO TO ALA.MO MUCHO. 
 
 their speed as they progress, when it becomes difficult 
 to restrain them to the gait of those in wagons. The 
 road continued very good during the night ; so that, 
 with the bright light of the moon and the air moderately 
 cool, we made good progress. As morning approached, 
 the road became heavier ; when my mules fell back, the 
 pack-mules still keeping on at their former pace. We 
 had now to get out and walk ; and this relief to the 
 poor animals enabled us at length to reach the stopping 
 place known as the Alamo Muclio, where water is ob- 
 tained by digging. 
 
 Although there may have been cotton-wood trees 
 here in former times, all have now disappeared ; for we 
 saw nothing but stumps and a few miserable mezquit 
 trees. 
 
ALAMO MUCHO TO FORT YUMA. 133 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 ALAMO MUCHO TO FORT YUMA. 
 
 The Desert — Dry basin — "New River " — Alarming news from the train — 
 Colonel Craig's encounter with the deserters from Fort Yuma — Re- 
 port of Sergeant Quin — Dr. Webb returns in search of Colonel Craig 
 and Sergeant Bale — Loss of wagons on the Desert — Great heat — Return 
 of party with the body of Colonel Craig — Sergeant Bale's return — 
 Further particulars of the encounter with the deserters — Burial of Col- 
 onel Craig — Word sent to San Diego — Prompt action of Colonel Ma- 
 gruder — Arrest of the murderers by Indians,and their execution — Colonel 
 Craig's character and services — March resumed — Cooke's Well — Colo- 
 rado River — Banks washed away — A passage cut through the woods — 
 Arrival at Fort Yuma — Depredations by the Yuma Indians on the 
 camp at night — Unsuccessful pursuit — Lieut. Whipple commences 
 crossing the Colorado. 
 
 June Qth. Reached Alamo Mucho on the desert, at 
 7 o'clock this morning, after a journey of twelve 
 hours without a moment's rest, in which time we 
 had made forty-five miles. In long marches like 
 this with pack-mules, it is not considered advisable to 
 stop ; for no rest can be given to the animals without 
 relieving them of their packs, to do which and replace 
 them would require at least two hours. If a pack- 
 train stops without relieving the mules of their bur- 
 dens, the animals lie down and attempt to roll, an 
 operation which disarranges the packs and often does 
 
134 
 
 ALAMO MUCHO TO 
 
 much injury. When there is grass and water, it is 
 well, on long marches by daylight, to rest an hour or 
 two during the heat of the day. Feed and water at 
 such times, with rest from their loads, affords much 
 relief; but when there is nothing to offer the weary 
 animals, it is decidedly the best course to hasten on 
 and complete the journey, unless it is too long to be 
 accomplished in a day. 
 
 The desert here is a vast open plain, extending as 
 
 Well at Alamo Mucho. 
 
 far as the eye can reach on every side, except on the 
 south-west, where a chain of mountains appears some 
 
FORT YUMA. 135 
 
 thirty or forty miles distant. The undulations are few 
 and slight. Near our camp was a steep bank about 
 sixty feet high, extending for miles, and descending to 
 a great depression or basin, which appears to have 
 been the bed of a lake. It was in this bed that the 
 wells or pits were sunk from which we obtained water. 
 
 About twenty-five miles back from this place we 
 crossed a ravine or arroyo some twenty or thirty feet 
 wide, and about ten feet below the surface of the 
 desert, that forms the bed of what is known as the 
 "New River." Three or four years ago, this ravine 
 was filled with water, as well as a large basin connected 
 with it. The water suddenly appeared here, and by 
 passing emigrants was hailed as a miracle and direct 
 interposition of Divine Providence, like the manna 
 furnished to the Israelites of old. 
 
 This phenomenon is now well known to proceed 
 from the Colorado River, which some years rises to a 
 great height, overflowing its banks and the adjacent 
 valley, and sometimes running back through lagoons 
 and depressions in the desert for many miles. It was 
 one of these great risings of the river that caused the 
 sudden appearance of the mysterious "New River" 
 of the desert, which remained two years, and then 
 dried up. By similar inundations the great basin at 
 Alamo Mucho has doubtless been, and may again be, 
 filled. I was told by persons in California who had 
 crossed this desert, that they had found pools of 
 brackish water several miles from the road. These I 
 presume to be deeper basins, where the water stands 
 longer than in the "New River" or the dry basins 
 passed by us. 
 
136 ALAMO MUCHO TO 
 
 On the table-land or plain of the desert the vege- 
 tation is scanty, consisting of dwarfish mezquit and 
 larrea. In the basin near us were patches of grass, 
 which, with the young twigs of the mezquit bushes, 
 formed the food of our animals. In certain portions 
 of the desert it is extremely annoying to travellers 
 when the wind blows, as clouds of sand then fill the 
 atmosphere. When one of our parties crossed it in 
 January, they were overtaken by one of these storms, 
 from which they suffered greatly, particularly as their 
 animals had perished, and they were forced to traverse 
 it on foot. 
 
 Within two hours after my arrival, others of the 
 party who were mounted came in, and among them 
 Mr. Malcolm Seat on, who reported to me that about 
 break of day the train had fallen in with the two 
 deserters of whom Lieutenant Sweeney was in pursuit ; 
 that Colonel Craig, having at once recognised them by 
 their dress and muskets, spoke to them, and asked 
 them where they were going. They replied, to Valle- 
 cito. The Colonel told them he knew they were 
 deserters from Fort Yuma, and advised; them to return 
 with him. After parleying a while, they told him they 
 would not return ; that they were desperate, and 
 would shoot any one who attempted to arrest them. 
 Colonel Craig called for Sergeant Quin, of his com- 
 mand, and Sergeant Bale, the non-commissioned officer 
 sent with the men furnished by Colonel Magruder. 
 Mr. Seaton then left, under the impression that Colo- 
 nel Craig would succeed in persuading the deserters 
 to return with him. Besides the soldiers with the 
 train, there were twenty or more men on whom the 
 
FORT YUMA. 137 
 
 Colonel could have called, had he deemed their aid 
 necessary. As the wagons began to lag, Mr. Seaton 
 hastened on to camp. 
 
 About an hour after, Sergeant Quin rode into 
 camp, his hat gone, and in a great state of excite- 
 ment. He stated, that soon after he and Sergeant 
 Bale had left the train, according to Colonel Craig's 
 orders, they came up with the two deserters; where- 
 upon the latter halted, and declared they would go 
 no further, but must settle the business on the spot. 
 Colonel Craig again expostulated with them, and 
 used every argument to induce them to surrender 
 themselves, and return with him to Fort Yuma, 
 but in vain. The Colonel told them who he was, 
 and said that, if a return to the Fort was so re- 
 pugnant to them, he would endeavor to have them 
 assigned to his command, in which event they 
 might accompany the Commission. He then dis- 
 mounted from his mule and handed his revolver to 
 Sergeant Bale, at the same time throwing off his 
 sabre. Thus disarmed, he approached the deserters, 
 showing that he intended no violent measures, and 
 believing that when he pictured to them the dif- 
 ficulties before them in crossing the desert, they 
 would yet consent to abandon their desperate under- 
 taking. 
 
 At this moment, the Colonel's mule, being without 
 his rider, moved off, and had got some fifteen or 
 twenty yards, when the Colonel directed Sergeant 
 Quin to stop him. He did so, and had thereby sepa- 
 rated himself from the Colonel and Sergeant Bale, 
 when he heard the report of muskets, and looking 
 
138 ALAMO MUCHO TO 
 
 round, saw Colonel Craig stagger and fall. The next 
 moment lie saw Sergeant Bale rapidly discharging his 
 revolver at the deserters, his mule at the same time 
 prancing about; when presently both of them fell. 
 He immediately advanced in the direction of the Col- 
 onel ; but before he had got many steps, the deserters 
 rushed towards him, discharging a revolver which they 
 had taken from Bale. Believing that both the Colonel 
 and Sergeant Bale were killed or overpowered, and 
 seeing but little chance for himself against too armed 
 and desperate men, he put spurs too his horse, and 
 made his way as fast as possible to my camp. 
 
 As soon as the wagons came up, I ordered an 
 ambulance to be prepared to return with a party in 
 search of Colonel Craig and the missing sergeant, 
 who, I hoped, might yet be found alive. As the 
 mules had now come nearly fifty miles without rest, 
 food, or water, they could not be immediately sent 
 back. Six of the best, however, were at once selected, 
 and a good feed of oats given them. Bedding, cloth- 
 ing, water, and provisions were put in the ambulance, 
 and the whole placed under the charge of Dr. Thomas 
 H. Webb. It was two o'clock in the afternoon before 
 the party could be got off, Lieutenant Whipple and 
 several others accompanying. 
 
 From the information given by the party with the 
 train, the encounter with the deserters took place full 
 thirty miles from our camp. To retrace their steps 
 this distance, with our weary animals, journeying be- 
 neath an overpowering sun, would require the remain- 
 der of the day, and a good portion of the night ; yet I 
 deemed it my duty to remain here, though we were 
 
FORT YUMA. 139 
 
 in the heart of the desert, unprotected by a tree or 
 bush, and exposed to a more oppressive heat than we 
 had ever before experienced. As there was but little 
 grass to be found, I caused the last of our corn and 
 oats to be distributed to the animals, giving about two 
 quarts to each. 
 
 Disasters seldom come alone ; and to add to the 
 misfortunes of the day, Jesus Ortiz, one of the team- 
 sters, came in and reported that the tire of one of the 
 wheels having come off, his wagon had broken down, 
 and in this disabled condition he had left it twelve 
 miles back. As his mules were perishing for water, he 
 had hastened on with them. 
 
 After the animals had been watered- and had grazed 
 for an hour on the straggling tufts of grass and 
 
 Do o o 
 
 mezquit bushes, I dispatched a party back with an 
 empty wagon, to bring forward the contents of the 
 broken one. They returned during the evening, 
 and reported that the fore wheel was completely 
 demolished and past repairing, and that the wagon 
 could not be used without another wheel. They also 
 reported that they had seen seven Indians, who kept 
 at a distance, but followed them for several miles. 
 
 In the afternoon, Mr. Johnson and an express rider 
 arrived from Fort Yuma, and remained several hours 
 to rest and water their animals. They were bound 
 for San Diego. On hearing of the disaster to our 
 wagon, they informed me, that about seven miles in 
 advance we should find a wagon in good order, which 
 had lately been abandoned, and with which we could 
 replace our disabled one. This was very welcome 
 news to me ; for we were not in a condition to lose a 
 
140 ALAMO MITCHO TO 
 
 wagon at this stage of our journey. I therefore sent 
 out a party with mules in search, which soon after 
 returned, bringing with them a very good vehicle. 
 Disasters of this kind are of common occurrence on the 
 desert, where mules give out or perish. One of our 
 own w,agons, in excellent order, was thus abandoned 
 by the party which crossed here in January, and was 
 soon after made a prize of. Two years previous to 
 our crossing the desert, when a large number of emi- 
 grants went over it to California, I was told that more 
 than a hundred good wagons, with harness, pack-sad- 
 dles, and a vast quantity of camp equipage, were scat- 
 tered along the road. Many of these were subse- 
 quently taken away by parties from the settlements, 
 who came out for them with fresh animals ; while 
 others were broken up and used for fuel, or parts 
 taken to restore the injured ones. 
 
 Such was the eventful day of the 6th of June, with 
 the heat at 108° Fahrenheit. We pitched our tents, 
 and rolled up the sides to catch a little air ; but it was 
 like the African sirocco, and seemed as though issuing 
 from a heated furnace. I found a little bower, about 
 three feet high, made of bushes, and covered with raw 
 hides, into which I crept, and passed the day. This 
 retreat had been constructed by Captain Davidson, 
 who the week before our arrival had been here from 
 Fort Yuma for the purpose of opening a well. 
 
 June 7th. In camp at Alamo Mucho. Remained 
 as quiet as possible, moving only from my tent to my 
 little bower. The men were occupied in enlarging 
 the well, as it required much time to dip up the 
 water, which was done with a bucket. The supply 
 
FORT YUMA. 141 
 
 was barely sufficient for the demand, which, in conse- 
 quence of the great heat, was constant both for man 
 and animals. The thermometer stood at 106°. 
 
 At two o'clock in the afternoon, Dr. Webb and his 
 party returned, bringing with them the dead body of 
 Colonel Craig. They did not reach the scene of action 
 until nearly ten o'clock at night, owing to the heavi- 
 ness of the road, and the wearied condition of their 
 animals. They then had much difficulty in finding the 
 body, it being more than a mile from the spot to 
 which they had been directed by the sergeant. After 
 dividing, and searching in various directions, they 
 formed a line from the road, placing men at such dis- 
 tances from each other that the intervening spaces 
 could be carefully observed. In this manner they at 
 length met with tracks, which finally led them to a 
 spot where the Colonel's loose riding coat was found. 
 Soon after they came to his hat, and finally to his corpse, 
 which was discovered extended on the ground, and 
 carefully covered with a blanket. "The scene," says 
 the Doctor, in his report to me, " was a sad and sicken- 
 ing one, and produced a strong sensation upon all 
 present, and particularly on the Colonel's body ser- 
 vant. It was evident from appearances that the Colo- 
 nel did not long survive the wound inflicted, or expe- 
 rience much, if any, severe suffering. 
 
 "The ground around was as undisturbed as 
 though he had laid himself down to rest, and compos- 
 edly gone to sleep. Had he lingered long in the 
 exposed situation where he was, there being neither 
 tree nor shrub to afford shelter, his sufferings, as the 
 sun got high in the heavens, would have been extreme, 
 
142 ALAMO MUCHO TO 
 
 independent of what he might have undergone from 
 the wound. 
 
 " Not many feet distant," continues Dr. Webb, 
 "we saw the dead body of Sergeant Bale's horse, 
 which had been perforated by a musket ball The 
 sergeant was nowhere to be found. I became satisfied 
 that he had left the ground, probably without being 
 mortally wounded. He had evidently, previous to his 
 departure, taken his own blanket from the saddle, and 
 with it covered the remains of the Colonel ; for men 
 who would brutally murder a fellow being, it was not 
 for a moment to be presumed would have the slightest 
 regard for the appearance or protection of the mutilated 
 relics. The corpse I caused to be carefully rolled up 
 and placed in the ambulance ; and at three o'clock in 
 the morning we mournfully commenced our return 
 march. 
 
 "After proceeding about ten miles on our way 
 back, we noticed ahead of us a man reclining by the 
 road side ; and on reaching him, much to my satisfac- 
 tion, he proved to be the missing sergeant. 
 
 " When he joined the Colonel, he was told the pur- 
 pose for which he was summoned ; and upon some 
 inquiry being addressed to him, he stated that whilst 
 ready to obey orders, from his knowledge of the 
 desperate character of the deserters, he was confident 
 they would not be taken without bloodshed. How- 
 ever, as already observed, the Colonel's feelings of 
 kindness outweighed all apprehensions of danger, if he 
 entertained any, and overbalanced all regard for self- 
 protection. • Having completely disarmed himself, and 
 lessened his security still further by sending his 
 
FORT YUMA. 143 
 
 sergeant for the stray mule, one of the deserters 
 (Corporal Hays) said to the other, 'Now is our 
 chance, as there is only a man apiece ; ' whereupon 
 they levelled their muskets, took deliberate aim, and 
 fired. Hays, who shot the Colonel, was within five feet 
 of him. 
 
 " The buck-shot from Condon's musket passed 
 through the calf of Sergeant Bale's leg, the ball at the 
 same time pierced the body of the horse which he was 
 riding. He discharged two or three shots from the 
 Colonel's revolver ; but the prancing of the animal 
 under the wound received, prevented true aim being 
 taken. The horse almost immediately fell ; and before 
 the sergeant could disentangle himself . from the trap- 
 pings, the deserters caught hold of him, and wrenched 
 away the revolver, but promised to inflict no addi- 
 tional injury upon him if he would remain quiet, 
 which, under existing circumstances, he very properly 
 engaged to do. He asked them to allow him to go to 
 the Colonel; to which they did not object. They 
 inquired if the Colonel had not some brandy with him. 
 He replied; probably not, the Colonel not being a 
 drinking man. However, they went to the body ere 
 life had left it, and searched, and probably rifled, the 
 pockets, as some small articles known to belong to 
 the Colonel have not since been found. 
 
 " They then turned in pursuit of Sergeant Quin, 
 discharging several shots at him, their object probably 
 being to obtain the two mules. Quin, as already 
 remarked, effected his escape with his own animal; 
 but they secured the Colonel's. Both mounted it, and 
 made directly for the mountains." 
 
144 ALAMO MUCHO TO 
 
 For the finale of this melancholy affair I refer the 
 reader to the accompanying note.* 
 
 * AVhile the party were engaged in searching for Colonel Craig and 
 the Sergeant, the express rider from Fort Yuma, on his way to San 
 Diego, overtook them ; which gave Dr. Webb an opportunity to send 
 intelligence to that place, Vallecito, Santa Isabel, etc., etc., relative to the 
 probable fate of Colonel Craig, in oider that suitable measures might 
 be taken to apprehend the deserters, should they present themselves 
 there. 
 
 As soon as the news was received by Colonel Magruder, command- 
 ing at San Diego, he sent expresses to the various military posts and 
 settlements, and aroused the Indians in Southern California, whereby he 
 was enabled to establish a cordon across the country with a view of 
 intercepting the murderers. The routes are so few, and the watering- 
 places so well known, that this object was easily attained. A reward, 
 too, was offered the Indians, to induce them to thoroughly scour the 
 country and prevent the escape of these men. It was not many days 
 before a party of Indians engaged in this duty discovered two men with 
 muskets ; and believing them to be the murderers, all but two concealed 
 themselves. One of these Indians was a chief, an exceedingly shrewd 
 man, who desired to secure his prize without bloodshed. They, there- 
 fore, professed friendship for the men, and proposed to buy their muskets; 
 an offer which the deserters gladly accepted, money being more impor- 
 tant to them now than weapons. They were accordingly paid eight dol- 
 lars each, and the cunning Indians thus became possessed of their arms. 
 But one of the deserters being still in possession of a large revolver, it was 
 necessary to disarm him of this before they could make sure of their pris- 
 oners. The Chief, therefore, manifested a great curiosity as to this sin- 
 gular weapon, and asked the man to let him examine it. Not suspect- 
 ing the object of the Indian, who he supposed had never seen a re- 
 volver before, he unhesitatingly handed it to him for inspection. The 
 Chief no sooner had it in his possession, than he stepped back and pre- 
 sented it to the breast of the deserter. The two Indians now gave the 
 war-whoop ; whereupon the rest of the party, numbering some twelve or 
 fourteen, sprang from their hiding-place, and at once surrounded the 
 prisoners. 
 
 They were conducted to the Mission of San Diego, and there surren- 
 
FORT YUMA. 145 
 
 I was desirous to take the body of Colonel Craig 
 to Fort Yuma for burial with military honors ; but Dr. 
 Webb pronounced this impracticable, owing to its rapid 
 decomposition, as it would require two, if not three, 
 days to reach that place. A deep grave was, therefore, 
 dug in the desert near our camp, and a few rods from 
 the margin of the great basin. At sunset, when the 
 mules had received their packs, the wagons had been 
 loaded, and the party were ready to move, a proces- 
 sion was formed, and the mortal remains of our excel- 
 lent and much beloved friend, borne upon a cot by 
 four soldiers, were consigned to his lonely grave. I 
 read on the occasion the burial service of the Church 
 of England. There was neither mound, rock, nor tree 
 to mark the spot ; a dreary solitude reigned around us, 
 uninterrupted by a single object, save the animals and 
 men belonging to the party. Even the wind had died 
 away ; and in the silence that accompanied our sad and 
 solitary rites, Wolfe's beautiful lines on the burial of 
 Sir John Moore involuntarily suggested themselves to 
 every mind. 
 
 In order that the spot might be identified, a 
 wooden cross was erected at the head of the grave, on 
 which was inscribed : 
 
 LIEUT. COL. L. S. CRAIG, IT. S. A. 
 Died June 6, 1852." 
 
 dered to Colonel Magruder. After much delay, arising out of the ques- 
 tion whether they should be tried by a military court martial or by the 
 civic courts, they^ were finally tried, condemned, and hanged at San 
 Diego, in presence of a vast multitude, among which were many 
 Indians. The murderers were both Englishmen, and are said to have 
 been deserters from the British army. 
 
 VOL. II. — 10 
 
146 ALAMO MUCHO TO 
 
 Colonel Craig was an officer of whom the army and 
 the nation had just cause to feel proud. He entered the 
 army from the love he felt for a soldier's life, and with- 
 out the advantages which a military education at West 
 Point is supposed to confer. Yet such was his devo- 
 tion to his profession, such the skill he acquired in it, 
 and such the bravery shown by him when called to 
 serve his country, that he soon attained the rank of 
 captain, and was breveted Lieutenant Colonel for gal- 
 lant service rendered at the battles of Cherubusco and 
 Molino Del Rey. His whole soul was absorbed in his 
 profession, and he spared no pains to render his com- 
 mand skilful in the use of their arms. He was always 
 most punctilious in the discharge of duty ; and how- 
 ever much his command was reduced by sickness or 
 absence, he kept up his daily drills and parades with 
 as much rigor and discipline as though an entire regi- 
 ment were under his charge. Towards his men he 
 manifested the interest of a father as well as that of a 
 commander, and was greatly beloved by them in return. 
 During the stay of the Commission at San Diego, 
 when nearly all the officers attached to it took advan- 
 tage of the necessary detention to visit other parts of 
 •California, he remained in camp with his men, nor did 
 he leave them for a single day, even when desertion 
 had reduced their number to five. It was a source of 
 deep mortification to him, that men who had followed 
 him through the severe campaigns of the Mexican war 
 should desert him here, for the sake of pecuniary ad- 
 vantage. His genuine kindness of heart, honesty of 
 purpose, and rigid adherence to duty, had won for him 
 
FORT YUMA. 147 
 
 a large circle of devoted friends among civilians, as 
 well as among his brother officers.* 
 
 At 8 o'clock in the evening we left camp, our hearts 
 filled with sadness. Passed several wagons in good 
 condition which had been abandoned by their owners, 
 among them some large ones, which bore the letters 
 U. S., showing, as we were afterwards told was the 
 case, that they had belonged to government trains, the 
 mules of which had perished. The whitened bones of 
 animals marked the road in many places, terrors to pass- 
 ing emigrants. At twelve o'clock the moon arose, 
 before which time we had much difficulty in finding 
 the road ; for so little was the desert travelled, that it 
 was only by taking a star for our guide that we man- 
 aged to keep in the right direction. I rode a mule all 
 this night, and found it no easy matter to retain my seat 
 in the saddle. Such, in fact, was the case with many 
 
 * I cannot refrain from relating an anecdote to show that Colonel 
 Craig's kindness was extended to animals as well as his fellow being's. 
 In our various marches across deserts, our animals often suffered much 
 for want of water, and in consequence of the intense heat, required great 
 attention. Notwithstanding the Colonel had men to take care of his horse, 
 so fearful was he that he might not receive proper care, that at the close 
 of a march he always accompanied his horse to the water (when it was 
 to be had), and, after seeing the animal well washed and cleaned, would 
 himself give him the luxury of a good sponging. The result was, his 
 horse was always in fine condition, and without the ailments incident to 
 constant use under the saddle in a hot climate. On one occasion when 
 we made a long march, and encamped without water for the animals, 
 and but a scanty supply for ourselves, a little was spared to the officers 
 to wash themselves in the morning. The Colonel made a request to 
 each of them, to refrain from using soap, that he might have the water 
 they had used for his horse ; by which means he collected a gallon for the 
 use of his favorite. 
 
148 ALAMO MUCHO TO 
 
 of us ; and some of the party were so much overcome 
 with drowsiness, that fastening their mules to bushes, 
 or to their legs, they lay down on the desert, and stole 
 a few minutes' sleep. The road continued very sandy, 
 and consequently very fatiguing to our jaded animals, 
 which had had but little food for the last four days. As 
 there was no necessity for keeping with the wagons, I 
 hastened on with the pack-mules and several men who 
 were mounted, and reached the next watering place, 
 known as Cooke's Well, at six o'clock in the morning, 
 having been ten hours in the saddle. The distance from 
 our last camp, was twenty-eight miles. After some time, 
 finding that neither the wagons nor my carretella (small 
 wagon) came in, I sent back some of the pack-mules 
 to their aid. But even with this assistance, they did 
 not come up until three or four hours after my arri- 
 val. 
 
 June 8th. At Cooke's Well. On reaching here this 
 morning, we were so much fatigued that we did not 
 pitch our tents, but threw ourselves down on the bare 
 sand beneath some mezquit trees, and were soon lost in 
 sleep. The water obtained here was from a hole dug in 
 the earth some ten. or twelve feet deep, in a place about 
 twenty feet lower than the general level of the desert. 
 It had to be dipped up in a bucket, and passed to a 
 second person midway towards the top, who emptied it 
 into a basin on the surface, from which the animals 
 drank. There was no grass here, but a thick growth of 
 mezqnit trees about twelve feet high, with very wide 
 spreading branches. These were loaded with, beans, 
 on which our half-famished mules fed freely, for it was 
 all we could give them. As these trees afforded a 
 
FORT YUMA. 149 
 
 good shade, we remained beneath them during the day, 
 which was as hot as before, the mercury ranging as 
 high as 106°. But even with this heat, we deemed it 
 a great luxury to be surrounded by such a delightful 
 grove, after the total barrenness and desolation with 
 which we had been surrounded for so many days. We 
 had now left the plateau of the desert, and were upon 
 the bottom-land with an alluvial soil. The party were 
 so much exhausted with the last night's march, and the 
 exciting events which preceded it, that I determined 
 to remain quiet during the day, and not leave until the 
 moon arose. 
 
 June 9th. Left camp at half-past one in the morn- 
 ing, when the moon afforded a feeble light, without 
 which it would have been impossible to find our way. 
 The whole party kept close together, with a sharp look 
 out ; as we were now in the country of the Yuma In- 
 dians, with whom the Americans are at war. We learn- 
 ed too, from the express that passed us on the desert, 
 that bands of these Indians had been seen here two 
 days before. Our journey was through a bottom filled 
 with mezquit and cotton-woods ; and from the great 
 quantity of fallen trees of a large growth, one is led to 
 believe that the whole bottom, from the point near 
 Cooke's Well, which is fifteen miles from the river, 
 must have been covered with water within a few years, 
 and for a considerable time too, to cause such a de- 
 struction of timber. 
 
 For several miles after leaving the desert, and 
 between that and the bottom land, there ran along our 
 left a great sand-drift, or belt of moving sand, which 
 extends far to the northward, and seems to be gradual- 
 
150 ALAMO MUCHO TO 
 
 ]y encroaching upon the bottom. It is about forty feet 
 high, and in its progress swallows up the largest trees 
 of the valley. It is so loose as to be impassable for 
 animals, and very difficult for men.* 
 
 At 6 o'clock, our eyes were greeted with a sight 
 of the great Colorado River, twelve miles below its 
 junction with the Gila, at a place called " The Algo- 
 dones," and soon after, we halted upon its bank It 
 was much swollen, and rushed by with great velocity, 
 washing away the banks and carrying with it number- 
 less snags and trees. The water, though sweet, was 
 much charged with mud, giving it a dark reddish 
 appearance, whence its name. We had seen no stream 
 since leaving the Mississippi (the rivers in Upper Cali- 
 fornia excepted) at all comparable, in point of size, 
 to the Colorado. 
 
 After watering the animals, I thought it best to 
 proceed a few miles further. Lieutenant Whipple, who 
 had been here before, and was familiar with the coun- 
 try, said we should find a grove of mezquit trees, which 
 would furnish food for the animals ; for the valley of 
 the Colorado affords no grass. Near this spot is a 
 rocky spur of the adjacent hills, called "Pilot Knob," 
 extending to the river, where we found the remains 
 of a stone fort built a few years before, by a party 
 of Americans, who established a ferry here. On this 
 ridge was one of the iron monuments erected by the 
 Boundary Commission the year before, which the 
 
 * Since ray return, I have been informed by Major Andrews, U. S. 
 A., who was stationed at Fort Yuma at the time of my visit, that this 
 belt of sand is about four miles in width, and from twelve to fifteen in 
 length. 
 
FORT YUMA. 151 
 
 Yumas had already overthrown. The road ran along 
 the river's bank, which, as well as the bottom-land, 
 was filled with a dense forest of willows, cotton-woods, 
 and mezquit. But we had not proceeded far before our 
 progress was suddenly arrested at a place where the 
 road Avas entirely washed away. We now retraced 
 our steps a short distance, but found it impossible 
 to get along with the wagons without first cutting 
 a path. All our axes were therefore brought into 
 requisition ; but as much time appeared to be neces- 
 sary to accomplish this work, and as the pack-mules 
 could push through, Mr. Leroux led the way followed 
 by Dr. Webb and myself. On reaching the spot select- 
 ed by Mr. L„ for the encampment, the mules were 
 unpacked : we endeavored to lead them to the water, 
 but found to our surprise that it could not be approach- 
 ed, in consequence of a high abrupt bank caused by the 
 rushing waters of the Colorado. We accordingly sad- 
 dled up again and pushed on towards Fort Yuma, which 
 appeared a few miles in advance, the stars and stripes 
 waving from the flag-staff first greeting our eyes 
 through the dense foliage of the valley. When within 
 a mile of the Fort, our further progress was stopped by 
 a sluice which extended across the road, as broad as 
 the river, and caused by its overflow. It seemed to 
 run far into the interior, and to be passable only with 
 boats. Perceiving a rude wigwam on the river's bank, 
 the Doctor and myself took possession of it, and, hitch- 
 ing our mules to trees, lay down to rest ourselves ; for it 
 was then noon, and we had been in the saddle since 
 one o'clock in the morning. 
 
 An hour after I was aroused from my sleep by a 
 
152 ALAMO MUCHO TO 
 
 messenger from Major Heintzelman, commanding at 
 Fort Yuma (whose sentinels, ever on the Avatch, had 
 discovered our approach some hours before), inviting 
 me to the Fort, and sending a scow with men to take 
 us across the sluice. Dr. Webb and myself availed 
 ourselves of the invitation, the rest of the party with 
 the wagons not having yet come up. We proceeded 
 on foot, and, after crossing the sluice, were met by 
 several officers, who conducted us to the Major's quar- 
 ters. We received a warm reception from them all ; 
 for visitors and countrymen are an exceeding rarity 
 in this out of the way spot. A few emigrants, it is 
 true, pass on their way to California ; but they seldom 
 reach here before August. Major Heintzelman invited 
 me to take up my quarters with him, while Dr. Webb 
 remained with Lieutenant Paige. The other officers 
 we met here were Major Andrews, Captain Davidson, 
 Lieutenants Curtis, Hendershott, Sweeney, and Bond, 
 and Dr. Milhau. 
 
 The train and the remainder of the Commission 
 encamped on the opposite side of the sluice, my wish 
 being to cross the Colorado as soon as possible, which 
 could be done as easily from that place as from the 
 Fort. 
 
 June 10th. The officers of the Commission crossed 
 the sluice this morning and came up to the Fort, where 
 they were all kindly received and hospitably enter- 
 tained. 
 
 I now commenced arrangements for crossing the 
 Colorado, which, in consequence of the great rise in 
 its waters, and their increased rapidity, was a matter 
 of much difficulty and risk. There was nothing to 
 
FORT YUMA. 153 
 
 cross in but a small and indifferent scow, which could 
 carry but one wagon at a time, and but a small number 
 of animals. The entire number to be ferried over were 
 one hundred and thirty-six mules and horses, twelve 
 oxen, and seven wagons with their contents. Anxious 
 that Lieutenant Whipple should not be detained a 
 moment with the survey of the river Gila, which was 
 to commence at its junction with the Colorado, and be 
 carried to the point where the work was suspended in 
 January, I directed his party to be moved over first, 
 and as soon as the scow, which needed some repairs, 
 could be made ready. The thermometer stood to-day 
 in the shade at the Fort, where there was a current of 
 air, at 105° ; yet, as we were now quiet, it did not seem 
 more oppressive than when in New York at 90°. 
 
 June 11th. The startling news was brought me 
 this morning, that the Yumas had entered our camp 
 the preceding night, and stolen fifteen of our animals, 
 including my valuable horse, the same that had been 
 ridden by Mr. Gray in his journey across. He was 
 the finest I had seen in the country, and had 
 been brought to New Mexico from Kentucky. But 
 this was trifling to the loss of so many riding and pack- 
 mules, as it was impossible to replace them here. 
 There had been two men on guard during the night ; 
 but they knew nothing of our loss until the animals 
 were missing in the morning, when the footprints of the 
 Indians became visible. The animals, which had all 
 been staked, or tied to trees, seemed to have been 
 loosened and led away without the least noise by these 
 accomplished marauders. I gave orders to take the 
 trail and set off in pursuit, not with the expectation of 
 
154 ALAMO MUCHO TO 
 
 overtaking the Indians and recovering our property, 
 but with the hope that, in the hurry of escape, some of 
 the mules might have got away, which we might 
 recover. But the pursuit was not attended with suc- 
 cess. The parties returned after following the trail 
 six or eight miles, which was as far as they could go 
 with safety ; as the enemy might be lying in ambush, 
 and overcome their pursuers when little expected. 
 Experience has shown the utter futility of pursuing 
 well mounted Indians on such an occasion, after 
 they have got three or four hours the start ; for they 
 urge on their animals to the utmost speed. Mr. Leroux, 
 who is an old trapper, guide, and hunter, and whose 
 life for twenty-five years has been spent in New Mexico, 
 has been often engaged in fights with the Indians, as 
 well as in pursuing them to recover stolen animals. 
 He says the only way to overtake them in such cases 
 is, to take provisions for several days, and on first set- 
 ting out in pursuit, not to hurry the animals, but follow 
 the trail at a steady and moderate pace while daylight 
 lasts. At night stop and rest ; and as soon as daylight 
 appears, continue the pursuit in the same manner, 
 taking care not to overwork the animals. By thus 
 continuing the chase, the third day will in most cases 
 bring you up with the enemy ; whose proximity can 
 be ascertained by any experienced hunter, from the 
 freshness of the trail, the manure of the animals, etc. 
 It then becomes necessary to proceed with caution, 
 and with scouts ahead. When the Indians are dis- 
 covered, the pursuers keep at a distance concealed, 
 and govern themselves by circumstances, whether to 
 make an open attack, or wait until they have encamped 
 
FORT YUMA. 155 
 
 for the night and then surprise them. When Indians 
 find themselves pursued, they run for several days, and 
 then scatter, so that it is impossible to catch them; 
 but if they suppose they are not followed, they stop 
 at the end of one or two days. 
 
 Lieutenant Whipple commenced crossing with his 
 party this morning. It had been the practice to swim 
 animals across the river ; but it was now so swollen 
 and rapid, as to preclude the possibility of so doing. 
 They had therefore to be ferried over in the scow, a 
 few at a time. The wagons were unloaded and taken 
 over empty. Even with the aid of all our men, the 
 progress in crossing was slow ; and on several occa- 
 sions the scow, failing to reach the landing place on 
 the opposite bank, was swept away by the current 
 between two and three miles down stream, before a 
 landing could be effected. It had then to be towed 
 up again with much labor, until it reached some nook 
 or low spot in the bank where the animals could be 
 landed. In this manner several hours were sometimes 
 required for a single crossing. 
 
156 FORT YUMA. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 FORT YUMA AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. 
 
 Crossing of the Colorado continued — Description of Fort Yuma — The 
 Colorado and Gila Rivers — The adjacent country — Rich alluvial bottoms 
 — Facility of irrigation — Ruins of the old Spanish Missions — Difficulty of 
 supplying Fort Yuma — Plan for surveying the head waters of the Gulf 
 of California — Frustrated by Colonel Graham — Discovery of the Colo- 
 rado in 1540 by Alarchon — Later voyages — Difficulties in navigating 
 the Colorado — Attempt of a steamer to ascend the river — Its velocity 
 and height — Fort Defiance — Massacre of Dr. Langdon and his party by 
 the Yumas — Indians of the Colorado — Early tribes not identified — The 
 Yumas — Cocopas — Mohavis — Extent of Alarchon's voyage in 1542 — 
 Fathers Kino, Font, and Garces. 
 
 June 12th. At Fort Yuma. Lieutenant Whipple con- 
 tinued crossing his party over the Colorado, and com- 
 menced the survey at the mouth of the Gila. 
 
 An express was sent by Major Heintzelman to San 
 Diego with the particulars of Colonel Craig's death, in 
 order that additional efforts might be made to arrest 
 the murderers. 
 
 Colonel McCall, Inspector General U. S. Army, 
 arrived to-day, accompanied by Lieutenants Bond and 
 Gardiner, to inspect the troops at Fort Yuma. 
 
 June 13 th. In accordance with the orders of Gene- 
 ral Hitchcock, Major Heintzelman detailed Lieutenant 
 
AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. 157 
 
 G-. W. Paige, with twenty-seven men as an escort, to 
 accompany the Commission to the Pimo Villages. They 
 commenced crossing the Colorado to-day; but, owing 
 to the swiftness of the current, were so unfortunate as 
 to swamp their boat, which was laden with provisions. 
 Excepting this accident, the parties of Lieutenants 
 Whipple and Paige got safely over, and encamped on 
 the margin of the river. 
 
 June 14:th. Sent the cattle over to-day, a more 
 troublesome task than was expected. As they refused 
 to lie down in the small scow, they were lassoed and 
 thrown, and then drawn into it by their feet with 
 mules. Once, just as the scow reached the opposite 
 bank, one of the cattle broke loose, leaped into the 
 river, and swam back ; the current carrying him so far 
 down, that he escaped into the woods, and could not 
 again be found. 
 
 June 15th. While the parties were still engaged 
 ingetting across the river, I took occasion to make 
 repairs on the wagons. My small wagon, in addition 
 to the axle-tree, had given out in other places. An 
 examination showed plainly that it was an article 
 " made to sell," and not to use. Every portion was 
 found defective, all flaws being carefully covered up 
 with paint. With no other conveyance than this for 
 our long journey, Dr. Webb and I had a poor prospect 
 .ahead. The Doctor's riding mule was among the num- 
 ber stolen. The wagon we had picked up on the 
 desert was found to be loose in many parts, requiring 
 repairs. In consequence of the loss in horses and 
 mules that we had sustained by the Yumas, we 
 were obliged to add some hundred pounds to each 
 
158 FORT YUMA 
 
 of the wagons, and an additional weight to each pack- 
 mule ; besides which I nearly filled one of the wagons 
 belonging to the escort. We should thus have to 
 resume our journey with every wagon and mule loaded 
 to the utmost, and without a single spare animal to 
 replace any that might be broken down or lost. 
 
 In repairing injuries to our wagons, every facility 
 had been furnished me by Major Heintzelman, and by 
 Major Andrews, United States Quarter-master at Fort 
 Yuma. For their aid also in crossing the river, and 
 for many acts of kindness extended by the officers here 
 to myself and the gentlemen associated with me in the 
 Commission, I take this occasion to express my ac- 
 knowledgments. 
 
 My cook ran away last night ; which event, though 
 it gave me the use of one more mule, deprived me of 
 a functionary whose services could not easily be dis- 
 pensed with. 
 
 June IQth. Fort Yuma Mauds upon a rocky hill at 
 the junction of the Gila and Colorado Rivers, and on 
 the north-west angle of the bank of the united stream. 
 The Colorado comes from the north, and, where it re- 
 ceives the Gila, is about five hundred yards wide. A 
 bend, which the Gila takes about fifteen miles from 
 its mouth, makes it come from the south to join the 
 Colorado. The united stream first takes a westerly 
 course, forcing itself through a canon in a chain of 
 rocky hills seventy feet high, and about three hundred 
 and fifty yards in length. After sweeping around 
 some seven or eight miles, it again assumes a southerly 
 direction ; and after a very tortuous course for about 
 a hundred and thirty miles, it empties into the Gulf of 
 
AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. 159 
 
 California. The rocky hills extend four or five hun- 
 dred yards north of the junction, and between two 
 and three miles to the south of it. Beyond the latter 
 termination rises the great plateau, or desert. The 
 Colorado flows through a bottom or valley from two to 
 four miles in width, thickly covered with cotton-wood 
 and mezquit ; beyond which is the desert, from sixty 
 to seventy feet above the valley. As far as I could 
 judge, from a bird's-eye view taken from Fort Yuma, I 
 should think the bottom-land of the Gila was from three 
 to four miles wide near the junction. The portion 
 towards the river is thickly covered with cotton-wood, 
 and with willows on the margin, while that farther 
 back has nothing but mezquit. A fine panoramic 
 view is presented of the whole country, from the sum- 
 mit of the hills on which the fort stands. Looking 
 northward, the course of the Colorado can be traced 
 for about fifteen miles, when it suddenly winds around 
 the base of a mountain ridge, and diverges to the 
 north-west. In this direction the view is most exten- 
 sive. Ridge after ridge of mountains is seen, one ris- 
 ing above and beyond the other, for a distance of 
 about eighty miles. The higher chains assume the 
 most varied and fantastic shapes, resembling cupolas, 
 minarets, pyramids, domes, chimneys, etc. One of 
 these singular summits is called the " Chimney Rock; " 
 and from Fort Yuma is the most striking object in the 
 landscape. It is said to be fifteen miles distant in a 
 direct line, and about thirty following the course of 
 the Colorado. 
 
 On the east of the Colorado is the delta of the Gila. 
 How far this extends back cannot be seen, the trees 
 
160 FORT YUMA 
 
 shutting off the view of the desert. On the north and 
 west the line of the desert is perceived at a distance 
 of about three miles, this line of view being inter- 
 rupted by the isolated mountain called " Pilot Knob." 
 At the south, short isolated ridges of mountains are 
 seen at a great distance. Mr. Pratt took a panoramic 
 view of the country here, which will convey a better 
 idea than any description I can give. 
 
 The Gila was not over fifty yards wide at its mouth ; 
 but its width varies much in different seasons, being 
 influenced by the rise of the Colorado, as well as the 
 state of its own waters. The Colorado was now so high 
 as to cause the Gila to flow back full fifteen miles. 
 The Gila was still low, and, except near the junction, 
 but a diminutive stream. It is doubtful whether it 
 can ever be navigated, except at its floods, and these 
 are by no means regular. At such times flat-bottomed 
 boats might pass to the mouth of the Salinas, near 
 the Pimo villages. 
 
 The singular bend which the Colorado takes after 
 it receives the Gila, gives to the United States both its 
 banks for the distance of seven miles from the junction, 
 or to the point where it resumes its southerly course. 
 This arises from the stipulations of the fifth article of the 
 treaty with Mexico defining the boundary line, which 
 says, that " a straight line shall be drawn from the mid- 
 dle of the Rio Gila, where it unites with the Colorado, 
 to a point on the coast of the Pacific Ocean, distant one 
 marine league due south of. the southernmost point of 
 the port of San Diego." The land on the southern bank 
 of the Colorado which we thereby obtain is of little value 
 for agricultural purposes; but should a considerable 
 
AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. 161 
 
 town be built where Fort Yuma now stands, which is 
 altogether probable if a railway should ever pass here, 
 it will be an advantage to the United States to possess 
 both the banks of this river for so long a distance. 
 
 The bottom-lands of the Colorado below the junc- 
 tion bear the traces of former cultivation, acequias 
 being seen in many places. Whether this cultivation 
 was by the Spaniards while they had a mission here 
 towards the close of the last century, or whether by 
 the Indians at an earlier period, is not known. But 
 from the large trees, both erect and fallen, which now 
 cover the bottom, even where the ditches appear, the 
 cultivation, in my opinion, was anterior to the occupa- 
 tion by the Spaniards. I have never seen bottom-lands 
 of this character which might be more easily irrigated. 
 The banks of both rivers are here low ; and the descent 
 near Fort Yuma would permit the opening of a canal 
 a few miles above, which would irrigate the whole 
 valley. When a stream is far below the level of the 
 bottom-land, and its fall but slight, it is necessary to 
 make the canal so long that the expense will not war- 
 rant the undertaking. The active and enterprising 
 commander here intends bringing these rich lands into 
 cultivation as soon as he has completed the quarters for 
 the men, upon which he is now engaged. Should he 
 do so, he will be able to furnish his command with 
 what they now most stand in need of — a good supply 
 of vegetables. 
 
 Close by Fort Yuma the traces of the old Spanish 
 Mission buildings may still be seen. These consist of 
 partly demolished stone walls of small buildings; 
 though a few years since the walls of a church were also' 
 
 VOL. II. 11 
 
162 FORT YUMA 
 
 visible. At the time of our visit these had been 
 removed, and used for building the barracks. There 
 were two hundred soldiers, artillery and infantry, 
 here, under the command of Major Heintzelman. The 
 officers and men were living in tents, covered with 
 sheds made of branches to protect them from the sun. 
 The post was established the year previous, but, not 
 receiving the usual supply of provisions, had been 
 abandoned for several months. The command was as 
 comfortably situated as the nature of the place and its 
 inaccessibility would allow ; but long deprivation of 
 fresh provisions and vegetables had engendered the 
 scurvy among the soldiers. 
 
 The fort had heretofore been supplied by land 
 from San Diego, at an enormous expense ; but a par- 
 tially successful attempt had just been made to supply 
 the place by water. A vessel loaded with stores was 
 sent up the Gulf of California, and succeeded in getting 
 some distance up the river ; but owing to the strong 
 current she could not reach the fort. Wagons and 
 scows were therefore sent down to bring up the pro- 
 visions, a labor attended with nearly as much risk 
 and expense as bringing them all the way by land 
 from the coast. It was in contemplation to procure a 
 small steamer for fetching the supplies from the head 
 of the gulf. Such a vessel could meet with little or 
 no difficulty in getting up, and could also be used to 
 advantage in exploring the Colorado above the fort. 
 
 In connection with the survey of the river Gila, it 
 was my earnest desire to explore and survey that por- 
 tion of the river Colorado which extends from the 
 point where it receives the Gila to the Gulf of Califor- 
 
AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. 163 
 
 nia, a distance now understood to be about one hun- 
 dred and thirty miles, by the sinuosities of the river. 
 
 With this view, I recommended to the Hon. Alex. 
 H. H. Stuart, Secretary of the Interior, that Lieuten- 
 ant I. G. Strain, of the Navy, an officer attached to the 
 Commission, should be directed to take the four iron 
 boats belonging to it, and survey the head waters of 
 the Gulf of California, and the river Colorado to the 
 mouth of the Gila. Lieutenant Strain accordingly 
 proceeded to Washington, and submitted to the Hon. 
 Secretary of the Interior the plan embraced in the 
 following letter: 
 
 "Washington, D. C, October 31, 1850. 
 
 " Sir : — In reference to the duty to which J. R. Bartlett, Esq., the 
 United States Boundary Commissioner, requested I should be assigned, 
 I have the honor herewith to submit two projects — one of which, I hope, 
 may merit your approval. 
 
 " In assigning me to the command of the flotilla, composed of four 
 boats belonging to the Boundary Commission, it was suggested that — 
 in consideration of the important results which must accrue to the country 
 from the early exploration and survey of the river Colorado below its 
 junction with the Gila, as well as that of the upper waters of the Gulf 
 of California, without which the former would be nearly valueless, — the 
 Navy Department might be induced to detail the requisite number of 
 seamen for the management of the boats; which would thus materially 
 lessen the outlay of the fund appropriated for the prosecution of the 
 Boundary Survey. No men could be obtained better adapted to this 
 duty than seamen. 
 
 " The importance of the examination proposed by Mr. Bartlett, is 
 obvious to every one acquainted with the present state of our new ter- 
 ritories on the Pacific, while the peculiar nature of the case does not 
 place the duties in any particular department of the government. The 
 examination of the upper part of the Gulf, and that portion of the Colo- 
 rado between its mouth and junction with the Gila, cannot be consider- 
 ed as pertaining to the ' Coast Survey,' as it is entirely embraced in the 
 
164 FORT YUMA 
 
 territory of the Mexican Republic ; yet the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, 
 giving to our citizens free ingress to the valleys of the Gila and Colorado, 
 through the Gulf, which is the only route available for the purposes of 
 commerce, makes an early examination of equal importance to that of 
 any portion of the coast of our newly acquired territories. 
 
 " Could the sympathies of the Navy Department be enlisted in 
 favor of this examination, and crews assigned to the boats already built 
 for the use of the Boundary Commission, the service could be effectu- 
 ally and economically performed, 
 
 " If, however, the government should not deem such measures desir- 
 able, I would respectfully suggest another project, which, though it 
 would not possess all the advantages of that already suggested, would 
 prove the most economical mode of prosecuting the explorations and 
 surveys with the funds which are now, or may be placed hereafter, at 
 the disposal of the Interior Department and the Boundary Commis- 
 sioner, 
 
 "The second project is as follows : That the four boats should be 
 dispatched, in charge of two passed midshipmen and five seamen, in a 
 steamer which will sail about the first of December to Mazatlan ; and 
 that I should be authorized to proceed to El Paso, where the Commis- 
 sion will be compelled to winter, and obtain from the party at that point 
 a sufficient number of men to man the boats, and proceed with them 
 overland to the port of Guaymas, on the Gulf of California, to which 
 points the boats will be conveyed from Mazatlan in a coasting vessel. 
 
 " From Guaymas we could easily ascend the Gulf in our boats to the 
 point where it would be desirable to commence our examinations. 
 
 " The advantage of this plan will be its economy ; as it will require but 
 a few persons, who may be obtained from the navy, in addition to those 
 who are already drawing pay and subsistence from the government. At 
 present, the number of men forming the main body of the Commission is 
 greater than can be advantageously employed ; while the scarcity of 
 provisions at El Paso, owing to the drought of last season, will make 
 their subsistence enormously expensive during the winter. The horses 
 and mules now belonging to the Commission, will have to be sold at El 
 Paso, or sustained at a heavy expense during the winter : and by em- 
 ploying a portion of them to transport the party to Guaymas, no addi- 
 tional expense will be entailed upon the Survey, as they and the men can 
 be more economically subsisted on the journey than at El Paso. 
 
AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. 165 
 
 " The adoption of this plan would incur no additional outlay commen- 
 surate with the object in view, which can never be attempted under 
 more favorable auspices. My opinion as to the superfluity of men now 
 with the Commissioner, you will find supported by letters now in your 
 department. 
 
 " My views relative to the great expense of subsisting a large party of 
 men and animals at El Paso during the ensuing winter, will be corrobo- 
 rated by Colonel J. Rogers, special Indian agent, who is familiar with 
 the present state of the country ; while the opinions which I have ex- 
 pressed, relative to the- importance of the explorations proposed by Mr. 
 Bartlett, you can assure yourself of by reference to the accompanying 
 condensed narrative, which, you will observe, confirms the opinion pub- 
 lished by the Hon. T. Butler King as to the fertility of the valley of the 
 Colorado, and its future importance to our country. 
 
 "To display the feasibility of a journey from El Paso to Guaymas, I 
 have also inclosed a narrative of a journey through that region. 
 " Very respectfully your obedient servant, 
 
 " I. G. STRAIN, 
 " Lieut. U. S. Navy, attached to Boundary Survey. 
 " Hon. Alex. H. H. Stuart, 
 Secretary of the Interior." 
 
 The distinguished gentlemen then at the head of 
 the Interior Department, ever anxious to promote the 
 cause of science, and particularly where the acquisition 
 of knowledge of our newly acquired possessions was 
 concerned, thought favorably of my suggestion, and 
 the plan of Lieut. Strain, and, as I was informed, would 
 have permitted that officer to carry it into effect. Be- 
 fore, however, he had an opportunity to do so, Brvt. 
 Lt. Col. Graham had been detailed as Principal Astrono- 
 mer, &c, to the Commission, and Mr. Stuart deemed it 
 proper to refer Lieutenant Strain's letter and papers 
 to him. The plan, strange as it may appear, was 
 objected to by Colonel Graham. In reply, he remark- 
 
166 FORT YUMA 
 
 ed that it was "an injudicious arrangement, and ought 
 to be dispensed with ;" that, although " by the late 
 treaty, our citizens have the right of ingress and egress 
 through the Gulf of California," we might " give of- 
 fence" to Mexico by the proceeding ; and that the ex- 
 penses attending this Survey could not be legitimately 
 met from the appropriations granted by Congress for 
 the Survey." But the last and most extraordinary 
 assertion is, that such an examination as Lieutenant 
 Strain proposes, in connection with the Survey, should 
 not be intrusted to a naval officer. "I have been 
 frequently engaged on surveys for the last thirty 
 years," says Colonel Graham, " of rivers, harbors, and 
 portions of the sea-coast, and always found the best 
 persons to manage the boats employed on such service, 
 were the engineers and surveyors charged with, and 
 responsible for, the execution of the duty." Colonel 
 Graham's letter to Secretary Stuart, embracing his 
 objections, will be found in Appendix E. 
 
 As the defeat of my plan has been a serious injury 
 both to government and to commerce, I shall show that, 
 both by the treaty with Mexico and my instructions, 
 I had authority to make the examination referred to. 
 
 The sixth article of the treaty of Guadalupe Hidal- 
 go provides, that 
 
 " The vessels and citizens of the United States shall, 
 in all time, have a free and uninterrupted passage by 
 the Gulf of California, and by the river Colorado below 
 its confluence with the Gila, to and from their posses- 
 sions situated north of the boundary line defined in the 
 preceding [Vth] article ; it being understood that this 
 passage is to be by navigating the Gulf of California 
 
AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. 167 
 
 and the river Colorado, and not by land, without the 
 express consent of the Mexican government." 
 
 The United States government, knowing that oppor- 
 tunities would be presented, in the course of the exten- 
 sive surveys intrusted to me, to acquire important 
 geographical knowledge relating to the immense 
 frontier along the line to be explored and surveyed, 
 fully authorized me to seek such facts. In his instruc- 
 tions to me, the Hon. Secretary of the Interior says : 
 " As the organization of the Commission under your 
 charge has been made for the purpose of collecting 
 information relative to the country contiguous to the 
 boundary line, in addition to the running of that line, 
 it is desirable that you should avail yourself of every 
 opportunity afforded by your passage through the 
 unexplored regions of Texas, New Mexico, and Cali- 
 fornia, to acquire information as to its geography, 
 natural history, &c, when it can be obtained without 
 retarding the progress of the Survey."* My duties 
 required me to send boats to the mouth of the Gila to 
 survey that portion of the river, as well as to carry 
 provisions there for the surveying parties ; and I should 
 have been guilty of neglect had I not endeavored to 
 take advantage of this opportunity to examine the 
 upper part of the gulf, and that portion of the Colo- 
 rado between its mouth and the junction with the 
 Gila. A minute survey of the ., entire gulf, about 
 which Colonel Graham has made calculations, was not 
 contemplated by either Lieutenant Strain or myself. 
 
 The great obstacle to the ascent of the Colorado is 
 
 * See Instructions, Appendix. 
 
168 FORT YUMA 
 
 the tidal wave at its mouth, which has been noticed 
 by all who have attempted to ascend it; and although 
 the United States has been in possession of California 
 six years, no official survey, exploration, or reconnois- 
 sance has yet been made of the head of the gulf, or of 
 the river below the Gila. The want of this is my 
 apology for giving some notices of the entrance of 
 this river by its discoverer and subsequent explorers. * 
 As early as the year 1540, Fernando Alarchon, in 
 a voyage to explore the Gulf of California, by order of 
 Antonio de Mendoca, Viceroy of New Spain, disco- 
 vered the mouth of the Colorado. It appears that 
 " the pilots and the rest of the company" made serious 
 objections to entering the river, and proposed that the 
 fleet should return. "But," says the persevering navi- 
 gator, in his letter to Mendoca, " because your Lord- 
 ship commanded me, that I should bring you the 
 secret of the gulf, I resolved that, although I had 
 known I should have lost the ships, I would not have 
 ceased for any thing to have seen the head thereof: 
 and therefore I commanded Nicolas Zamorano, pilot 
 major, and Dominico del Castello, that each of them 
 should take a boat, and their lead in their hands, and 
 run in among these shoals, to see if they could find out 
 
 * I should do injustice to Major Heintzelman not to notice his 
 efforts to explore the Colorado below Fort Yuma. He was unprepared 
 with instruments for an accurate survey ; yet he did make a reconnois- 
 sance to ascertain the feasibility of getting his supplies up, which enabled 
 him to lay clown approximately the course of the river. I am indebted 
 to him for a copy of this map, which is now in the hands of the engi- 
 neers of the Commission, and is all the material they possess for making 
 a map of this portion of the country. 
 
AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. 169 
 
 the channel whereby the ships might enter in ; to 
 whom it seemed that the ships might sail up higher 
 (although with great travail and danger). And in this 
 sort I and he began to follow our way which they had 
 taken, and within a short while after we found our- 
 selves fast on the sands, with all our three ships, in 
 such sort that one could not help another ; neither 
 could the boats succor us, because the current was so 
 great that it was impossible for one of us to come unto 
 another. Whereupon we were in such great jeopardy 
 that the deck of the Admiral was oftentimes under 
 water ; and if a great surge of the sea had not come 
 and driven our ship right up, and gave her leave, as it 
 were, to breathe a while, we had there been drowned. 
 And likewise the other two ships found themselves in 
 very great hazard; yet because they were lesser, and 
 drew less water, their danger was not so great as ours. 
 Now, it pleased God, upon the return of the flood, that 
 the ships came on float [floated], and so we went 
 forward. And although the company would have 
 returned back, yet for all this I determined to go 
 forward, and to pursue our attempted voyage ; and we 
 passed forward with much ado, turning our stems now 
 this way, now that way, to seek to find the channel. 
 And it pleased God that after this sort we came to the 
 very bottom of the bay ; where we found a very 
 mighty river, which ran with so great a fury of stream 
 that we could hardly sail against it. In this sort I 
 determined, as well as I could, to go up this river. And 
 with two boats, leaving the third with the ships, and 
 twenty men, myself being in one of them, with Rode- 
 rigo Maldonado, treasurer of this fleet, and Gaspar de 
 
170 FORT YUMA 
 
 Castilleia, comptroller, and with certain small pieces 
 of artillery, I began to sail up the river."* 
 
 We hear little more of attempts to enter the Colo- 
 rado until those of the missionaries about the middle 
 of the last century. In 1746, Father Consag made a 
 voyage for the purpose of exploring the Gulf of Califor- 
 nia. He reached its head, and found the river. " At 
 the entrance," he says, "is a triangular island, which 
 divides the stream into two arms, one in California, 
 running northward, and the other on the opposite side, 
 running north-west. The people went ashore, and 
 found themselves between two rapid currents : one of 
 the rivers ebb, and in the other the sea was flowing in 
 with no less impetuosity, so that they had a very narrow 
 escape. "f He attempted to go up the Colorado ; but 
 the current was so rapid that the boats could not stem 
 it, and having no ropes to tow them, the project of 
 further exploration was abandoned. 
 
 The only attempt in recent times to enter the Colo- 
 rado before the occupation of California by the United 
 States, of which I have knowledge, is that of Lieute- 
 nant Hardy of the British navy. J This gentleman was 
 sent out by an English company connected with the 
 pearl fishery in the gulf; and in the course of his 
 explorations he visited the Colorado. He has given 
 us a plan of the mouth of the river, accompanied by 
 soundings ; which bears every mark of correctness, 
 with the exception of an error in laying down the 
 river Gila. For this he mistook a small branch falling 
 
 O 
 
 * Hakluyt's Voyages, vol. iii., p. 425. London ed. of 1600. 
 
 f Venega's California, vol. ii., p. 308. 
 
 I Travels in the Interior of Mexico. London, 1829, p. 320. 
 
AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. 171 
 
 into the Colorado about ten miles up ; or it may have 
 been a sluice filled with the rushing water from the 
 tides of the gulf. This latter I think the more probable 
 supposition. The Gila, as I have already mentioned, 
 is known to enter the Colorado at more than a hun- 
 dred miles from its mouth. 
 
 Lieutenant Hardy found two small islands at the 
 mouth of the river, and entered by the western chan- 
 nel ; where there was, at the narrowest point, but a sin- 
 gle fathom of water, the width varying from ninety 
 to two hundred yards. Owing to the narrowness 
 of the channel, he was obliged to stand in so close to 
 the shore that the jib-boom nearly touched it. The 
 western bank was here high and perpendicular. The 
 tide was running at the rate of nine miles an hour. 
 With all his care, the vessel was thrown on shore, 
 where she lay eight days. The flood and ebb tides 
 swept by with the same velocity ; and on one occasion 
 the receding tide left his vessel one hundred and fifty 
 feet from the water. He waited in vain for slack 
 water, in order to replace the rudder, which had been 
 unshipped. "But in the Colorado," he says, "there is 
 no such thing as slack water. Before the ebb has 
 finished running the flood commences, boiling up full 
 eighteen inches above the surface, and roaring like the 
 rapids of Canada." 
 
 Since the foregoing was written, I have read an 
 account of the most recent attempt to ascend the Colo- 
 rado, which is given in the accompanying note.* 
 
 * This statement is contained in the San Francisco Herald of June 
 11th, 1853: 
 
172 FORT YUMA 
 
 A few weeks before my arrival here, a fight took 
 place between eight soldiers and a body of Yuma 
 Indians, in which the former were all killed. The 
 
 Mr. Turnbull left San Francisco in the schooner General Patterson, 
 with stoi"es for the garrison at Fort Yuma. At the mouth of the Colo- 
 rado he met with a serious obstacle in the number of sand-banks and 
 the high tides. " The tide," he says, " rises from twelve to sixteen feet 
 every twelve hours ; the tidal wave, being sometimes four feet high, 
 carries every thing before it. If a vessel strikes on a sand-bank at high 
 tide, she becomes high and dry in a little while, and may remain so for 
 weeks before she can be got off. Fortunately, the General Patterson, 
 shortly after entering the mouth of the river, met a whale-boat contain- 
 ing the mates and four of the crew of a vessel belonging to Mr. Turn- 
 bull, which had been lying in the river for several months. They had 
 been engaged in obtaining soundings, and were consequently enabled to 
 pilot the Patterson up, without stopping at every moment to try whether 
 she was over one of the dreaded sand-banks. In this way she ascended 
 the river thirty-three miles in two days, and anchored. No other vessel 
 had ever before made the same distance in less than twenty days. Mr. 
 Turnbull, with a party, took a whale-boat at this point, and ascended 
 the river to Fort Yuma, upwards of a hundred miles. 
 
 " The river was swollen almost to a torrent by the melting of the 
 snow at the head waters ; and the country for fifteen miles on both 
 sides was entirely inundated, the water standing four feet deep upon its 
 banks. The current was running at the rate of seven or eight miles an 
 hour, and multitudes of floating; snao-s of trees were rushing down. So 
 completely was the country overflowed, that Mr. Turnbull found in a 
 distance of a hundred and twenty-five miles but two dry spots on the 
 banks where he could cook his food. He was obliged to sleep on board 
 his boat, as there was no land to be seen. 
 
 " Within a few miles of Fort Yuma, he heard of the loss of the 
 steamer Uncle Sam, which it was his purpose to run regularly on the 
 Colorado. He had brought out machinery for her in the Patterson, 
 which would have enabled him to stem the current of the river, and 
 probably to have ascended considerably above the Fort. He has not 
 yet given up his purpose, and will take the hull of another steamer out, 
 the machinery being still at the Fort." 
 
AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. 173 
 
 Indians approached the soldiers, and drew their fire, 
 when a large number, who lav in ambush, rushed upon 
 them with the short clubs which form their principal 
 weapon, and put them all to death. Major Heintzelman 
 in turn sent several parties against them, and drove 
 them all from the banks of the Colorado for some 
 eighty miles above, destroying their corn fields and 
 their villages. They had been so cruel and treache- 
 rous to the various parties of Americans passing 
 here, and had manifested so much hostility towards 
 the troops, that it was found useless to attempt to 
 conciliate them, or make any treaty with them, 
 unless they themselves were forced to come in and ask 
 it. They have often made treaties with the Mexicans, 
 only to break them when a favorable opportunity 
 offered to plunder and murder. When Lieutenant 
 Whipple was here, in 1849, with a party of engineers, 
 to determine the point of junction between the two 
 rivers, and establish the monuments on the boundary 
 line, he remained several months among them, on 
 terms of intimacy and friendship.* 
 
 One afternoon while here, Major Heintzelman and 
 myself made some experiments to ascertain the velocity 
 of the Colorado below the junction. The result gave 
 us 5i miles per hour. But it must be remembered 
 
 * Since the above was written, Major Heintzelman has been com- 
 pletely successful in reducing the Yumas. He pressed them so hard 
 that they at length came in and begged for peace, which was at once 
 granted them, and a treaty made. They now occupy the rich bottom- 
 lands near Fort Yuma, which they cultivate, raising wheat, corn, melons, 
 beans, etc. ; and the best feeling exists between them and the Ameri- 
 cans. 
 
174 FORT YUMA 
 
 that the river was then much swollen. When low, it 
 flows at the rate of about two miles an hour. It is 
 then but four feet deep at the fording place at the 
 Algodones, where we first saw it ; and at such times 
 wagons, mules, and cattle may easily cross. When 
 the engineering parties crossed here in January, they 
 swam their mules and were taken over in boats by 
 the Indians. By a stake planted below the junction, 
 Major Heintzelman ascertained the rise of the river to 
 have been thirteen feet and six inches, when at its 
 highest point, which it attained on the 13th of June ; 
 while the Commission was here. 
 
 Four miles below Fort Yuma are the remains of a 
 fortification called Fort Defiance. This is the spot where 
 we first encamped, and were unable to reach the water. 
 It was an old ferrying place, and the scene of a mas- 
 sacre by the Yumas the year before our visit, the par- 
 ticulars of which I will state. 
 
 In 1849, when large numbers of people from the 
 United States and the adjacent province of Sonora were 
 emigrating to California, many came by the Gila and 
 crossed the Colorado here. At this time, as there was 
 no garrison on the spot, nor any white settlers, the 
 Yumas derived quite an advantage from aiding emi- 
 grants to cross, having by some means obtained a boat 
 or scow for the purpose. A party of Americans, see- 
 ing a prospect of a lucrative business by the establish- 
 ment of a ferry, dispossessed the Indians of their boat, 
 drove them from the river, and would not permit them 
 to help emigrants across or otherwise have any thing 
 to do with them. The leader in this affair was a Dr. 
 Langdon, of Louisiana. The ferry was established at 
 
AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. 175 
 
 the rocky spur before alluded to ; upon which, directly 
 on the bank of the river, they built a rude fort wherein 
 they could defend themselves. This, in contempt for 
 the natives whom they had dispossessed of their rights, 
 they called Fort Defiance. 
 
 The party which originally established the ferry 
 was fitted out by J. P. Brodie, Esq., a gentleman living 
 atHermosillo, in Sonora, of whom I have before spoken : 
 he advanced the money for the purpose, and retained 
 an interest in it. While this gentleman had the direc- 
 tion of affairs, no further offence was given to the In- 
 dians, and emigrants were always treated well and fairly 
 dealt with. Not long after, however, a man named 
 Gallantin was employed by Dr. Langdon, or in some 
 other way became interested in the ferry. He turned 
 out to be a bad fellow, and was supposed to be a fugi- 
 tive from justice. He treated the Indians most brutally, 
 and practised all sorts of impositions upon the passing 
 emigrants, charging about four dollars a head for every 
 one who crossed the river. He also extorted large 
 sums from the Sonorians when returning to their homes 
 from the mines, when he found or believed they had 
 any considerable amount of gold with them. 
 
 When Dr. Langdon found out the character of Gal- 
 lantin, he endeavored to get rid of him, but found him- 
 self unable to do so. About this time Gallantin took 
 occasion to visit San Diego ; and there his party got 
 into a fight, in which a soldier was killed. Gallantin 
 was arrested and imprisoned, but made his escape back 
 to the Colorado with a supply of liquor. The men 
 having fallen asleep, either from the effects of liquor or 
 of fatigue, the Yumas, who had watched their oppor- 
 
176 FORT YUMA 
 
 tunity, rushed upon them with their clubs, and massa* 
 cred every soul at the ferry, embracing some twelve 
 or fifteen persons. Three men were at some distance 
 in the wood cutting timber; these, seeing from the 
 actions of the Indians that something was wrong, suc- 
 ceeded in concealing themselves, and made their escape 
 by joining a party of Mexicans who soon after came 
 along. A large sum of money, all that had been saved 
 by Langdon and Gallantin (estimated at from fifteen 
 to thirty thousand dollars), fell into the hands of the 
 Indians ; and this was freely used by them in supply- 
 ing their wants from the emigrants who afterwards 
 passed. They knew little of the value of gold, and 
 would sometimes give four or five doubloons for an 
 old worn-out blanket, or a gold eagle for a tattered 
 shirt. 
 
 No sympathy was felt for the men who had thus 
 lost their lives ; but the event tended to encourage the 
 Yumas in acts of violence, in which many innocent and 
 unoffending parties perished. I heard of one occa- 
 sion on which a party of emigrants crossed while the 
 Yumas retained the ferry. The Indians showed friend- 
 ship for them, and assisted in making their fires and 
 in taking charge of their animals. The party cooked 
 their meal, and sat down quietly to eat ; for although 
 numbers of the Yumas were about their fires and the 
 camp, their presence caused no uneasiness, as they 
 were unprovided with arms. But on a sudden, at a 
 given signal, they each seized a billet of wood from 
 the fire, and knocked out the brains of the Ameri- 
 cans. 
 
 The ferry is at present well conducted, and though 
 
AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. 177 
 
 the facilities for crossing are not as great as they might 
 be, they are perhaps as great as the expenses of carry- 
 ing it on will warrant. I paid one dollar for each man, 
 two dollars for each mule and ox, ten dollars for each 
 wagon, ten dollars for each wagon load, one dollar 
 for each mule load, &c. The total expense for cross- 
 ing the Commission and the escort, amounting to five 
 hundred and four dollars.* 
 
 Of the Indians who occupy the country near Fort 
 Yuma, the largest and most important tribe are the 
 Yumas. These people occupy both sides of the Colo- 
 rado both above and below the junction with the Gila. 
 But how far they extend to the north is not known ; 
 probably not less than a hundred miles. Of the tribes 
 to the north of them, very little is known. There has 
 
 * In consequence of the great demand in California for sheep, large 
 numbers have been driven thither from New Mexico, as well as from Chi- 
 huahua and Sonora, all of which cross the Colorado near Fort Yuma. 
 I spoke of the heaps of dried carcasses and skeletons which we saw at 
 Carrizo Creek ; but it seems that the desert is not the only difficulty 
 which the owners have to contend with. During the previous winter, 
 the Yumas took advantage of the temporary abandonment of the Fort 
 by the troops, to molest the parties- of passing emigrants, particularly 
 when they could rob them of their mules, cattle, and sheep. The most 
 flagrant case, was the loss of 4,217 sheep, belonging to Mr. Joseph 
 White. He had succeeded in getting them over the Colorado in safety, 
 and was preparing to cross the desert. But at this time the Indians 
 began to press them hard, killing and stealing the sheep. To add to the 
 misfortunes of the drovers, their water gave out, and the sheep could not be 
 forced to travel during the day in consequence of the intense heat. The 
 men, to save their lives, hastened on to the water, leaving the sheep until 
 they could return. The Indians, who followed them close, took advan- 
 tage of their situation, and drove them off; and thus the whole flock 
 
 was lost. 
 
 vol. it. — 12 
 
178 FORT YUMA 
 
 been no communication with them either by travellers 
 or by the government. The early missionaries who 
 traversed that region have placed on their maps seve- 
 ral tribes, whose very names have now disappeared. 
 On the old maps there are found west of the Colorado 
 the Genigueh^ihe Chemeguabas, the Jumbuicrariri, and 
 the Timbabachi, tribes of whose existence in our day 
 we know nothing. The missionaries who mention 
 them, are correct in all their statements, as far as we 
 are now able to judge, and it is therefore probable 
 that there were small tribes bearing the above names. 
 Father Kino, who was here in the year 1700, mentions 
 the Quiquimas, Coanpas, Bajiopas, and Cutganes, while 
 the distinguished philologist Hervas, in his " Catalogo 
 de las Lenguas," names many others, the authority for 
 which, is the early missionaries. At Fort Yuma, we 
 heard of a tribe called the Mohavi, who occupy the 
 country watered by a river of the same name, which 
 empties into the Colorado about one hundred and fifty 
 miles above the fort. They are said to be a fine 
 athletic people, exceedingly warlike, and superior to 
 the other tribes on the river. On the eastern side, the 
 same missionaries notice the Teliuas, Cosninas, and Mo- 
 quis. A tribe of the first-named family lived in New 
 Mexico. The Cosninas I presume to be the same as the 
 Coch-nich-nos, whom Mr. Leroux met in his late jour- 
 ney down the Colorado, although, on account of 
 their hostility, he had no intercourse with them. The 
 Moquis are still known, being one of the semi-civilized 
 tribes with which we have had some intercourse. This 
 people cultivate the soil, raise numbers of sheep, live 
 in large villages, and manufacture a superior blanket 
 
AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. 179 
 
 both of cotton and wool. The Yuraas speak of the 
 Haivalcos and Yampaos tribes, on the eastern bank 
 of the river, who make blankets. The Mexicans also 
 speak of a tribe called the Tontos, or fools, on the east- 
 ern bank of the river ; who' are said to be allied to the 
 Apaches. It is probable that, with the exception of 
 the great tribes, they are known among each other by- 
 different names, which have some connection with the 
 mountains or rivers near which they dwell, or with 
 some peculiarity which distinguishes them from each 
 other. Thus the Yumas are also called Cuchans ; and, 
 as I have before stated, the Diegenos, who derive their 
 name from San Diego, are the Comeya of early times. 
 It is also certain that many tribes which the mission- 
 aries found in California and the northern parts of 
 Mexico, are now extinct.* On the Gila, no tribes have 
 any fixed habitation, nor are anj r lands irrigated and 
 cultivated, until the district occupied by the Coco-Mari- 
 copas and Pimos is reached, two hundred miles to the 
 east. The Yumas occasionally range up and down the 
 Gila, but only on predatory excursions. They strictly 
 belong to the Colorado near the junction with the Gila, 
 where they were found by the earliest explorers. 
 
 Between the Gila and the Gulf, and near the latter, 
 there is also found a tribe called the Cocopas. They 
 occasionally visit Fort Yuma, and profess to be at peace 
 with the Americans. They are less numerous than the 
 Yumas, with whom they are at war. Recently a party 
 of the Yumas were surprised by them, their chief and 
 
 * Of the existing and extinct tribes of Indians I shall speak at 
 length in my Essay on the Ethnology of these countries. 
 
180 FORT YUMA 
 
 many others killed, and the party completely routed. 
 At the latest accounts the Yumas were preparing for 
 a campaign against them ; and as their numbers are 
 much larger, it may result in the annihilation of the 
 Cocopas, who would not be the first tribe which the 
 warlike Yumas have extinguished. 
 
 When Lieutenant Whipple was at the junction of 
 the Colorado and Gila rivers, in 1849, engaged in 
 astronomical observations for the Boundary Commis- 
 sion, he was constantly surrounded by the Yuma In- 
 dians, and had therefore a good opportunity to 
 observe their habits. He has permitted me to copy 
 from his journal the following notices of them. When 
 he reached the Colorado, he was met by Santiago, one 
 of the chiefs, who conducted his party to their village, 
 where they were surrounded by great numbers of the 
 Indians. " The women are generally fat, and their 
 dress consists of a fringe made of strips of bark, bound 
 round the hips and hanging loosely to the middle of 
 the thighs. The men are large, muscular, and well 
 formed. Their countenances are pleasing, and seem 
 lighted by intelligence. Their warriors wear the white 
 breech ; and their hair hanging in plaits to the middle 
 of their backs, is adorned with eagle's feathers, and the 
 rattle of a rattlesnake. They are exquisite horsemen, 
 and carry their bow and lance with inimitable grace." 
 While the party remained at the lower crossing wait- 
 ing for a road to be cut, the Indians were very sociable, 
 carrying them grass, beans, melons, and squashes ; for 
 which, they received in return tobacco or money. 
 They professed great friendship for the Americans, 
 and declared that they "had never stolen from the 
 
AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. 181 
 
 emigrants, nor maltreated them in any way ; but the 
 Indians higher up, and near the mouth of the Gila, they 
 represented as being a desperate set of rascals." Lieut. 
 Whipple afterwards met the head chief, Pablo, who 
 wore a scarlet coat trimmed with gold lace, with epau- 
 lettes of silver wire, and, to crown all, green goggles. 
 His legs and feet were bare, but he did not allow that 
 to detract from the dignity of his manner. At this 
 time the Yumas had extensive fields of maize, and 
 patches of melons and squashes. 
 
 When the party under Dr. Webb crossed the Colo- 
 rado, in January, the good feelings of these Indians 
 towards the Americans had changed. They had 
 already murdered the party of Dr. Langdon and Gal- 
 lanton, and had had difficulties with several parties of 
 emigrants. Dr. Webb and his companions, therefore, 
 held but little intercourse with them. The Indians 
 ferried them across the river, taking the opportunity to 
 drown a mule or two, which they afterwards secured 
 and ate. At the same time Mr. Pratt took some sketches 
 and portraits of them, and Dr. Webb obtained a com- 
 plete vocabulary of their language. 
 
 I have before stated that Fernando Alarchon dis- 
 covered and entered the Colorado in the year 1542. 
 The narrative of his remarkable voyage at . this early 
 period shows that the zeal for adventure and discovery 
 was quite as great at that period as now. He states 
 that he went up the river eighty-five leagues, which is 
 quite probable ; when his further progress was arrested 
 by lofty mountains, through which the river ran, 
 where it was impossible to draw their boats. This 
 was unquestionably the great canon, where the moun- 
 
182 FORT YUMA 
 
 tains cross the river, and through which it has worked 
 for itself a deep channel. This canon is known to all 
 the trappers, and is said to extend from two to three 
 hundred miles, throughout which distance it is only 
 passable in two or three places. As he progressed, 
 Alarchon made diligent inquiries about the country 
 and people. In reply he was told that the river ran 
 much further up into the land than he had yet come ; 
 but his informers did not know its head, as it was still 
 very far in the interior. He learned also that many 
 other streams fell into it. As far as he went, he found 
 the natives cultivating maize. They brought him cakes 
 of maize and loaves of mezquique* Neither wheat nor 
 beans were known to them. To ascertain this fact, 
 our traveller took with him these articles, which he 
 showed the Indians, and at which " they expressed 
 much wonder." He found cotton growing, but nowhere 
 saw any fabrics made of it ; whence he naturally was 
 led to believe that they knew not the art of spinning 
 and weaving. The natives told him that there were 
 twenty-three different languages spoken along the 
 river. 
 
 It is a singular fact, that although Francisco de 
 Ulloa explored the Gulf of California in 1539, and 
 Alarchon in 1542, at which time the latter discovered 
 and passed up the Colorado, the fact that California had 
 been ascertained to be a peninsula came to be forgot- 
 ten, and it was regarded as an island until some time 
 
 * I imagine the mezquique to be flour made of the mezquit bean, 
 which is now used by the California Indians, as well as by the Coco-Ma- 
 ricopas and Pimos of the Gila. 
 
AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. 183 
 
 between the years 1698 and 1 701. This rediscovery was 
 made by Fathers Kino and Sedlemayer, two of the ear- 
 liest and most distinguished of the Jesuit missionaries, 
 who in consequence were able to open a communication 
 by land with the missions of Lower California, which had 
 already been established.* Kino, next to Alarchon, 
 followed up the Colorado beyond its confluence with 
 the Gila; and was the first to preach the Gospel 
 among the Indians, who were then very numerous in 
 this region. He made five separate journeys to the 
 Gila and Colorado Rivers between the years 1694 and 
 1706 ; and on one occasion intended to cross over to 
 Monterey, in Upper California, from which he was only 
 prevented by an accident. He established a mission 
 near the mouth of the Colorado and one at the mouth 
 of the Gila. The former did not last many years. The 
 latter was in existence as late as 1776, when Fathers 
 Pedro Font and Garces came with a large party from 
 Sonora to replenish the missions of California, but 
 chiefly that at Monterey. f Fathers Garces and Ei- 
 rarch remained at the Colorado, and Font proceeded to 
 the coast. Garces afterwards made extensive journeys 
 
 * This question seems to have awakened much interest among the 
 geographers of the period. Captain Mange accompanied Father Kino 
 in the journey referred to, and his letter announcing the discovery, with 
 great detail, is given in Alegrd's Hist, de la Comp. de Jesus en JYueva 
 Espana. Vol. III. 
 
 j- I obtained in Monterey, by the kindness of Dr. A. Randall, a copy 
 of the manuscript journal of Father Pedro Font, together with the map 
 which illustrates both the journeys of Font and Garces. The existence 
 of this map was not before known, and it may be regarded as of great 
 value. 
 
184 FORT YUMA AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. 
 
 up the Colorado, and established a mission among the 
 Moquis. He was soon after killed by the Indians, and 
 the Colorado Mission destroyed. 
 
 Note. — I have several times spoken of the state of the thermometer. 
 At all times it was placed beneath the shade of a tree, and hanging 
 against it. In no case was it hnng in the tent, where the heat was 
 much greater. Our barometers had all been broken before reaching the 
 Colorado, except mine, an aneroid, which I gave to Lieutenant Whipple, 
 in order that his records might be kept complete. So with my ther- 
 mometer. It was lost, and I was afterwards obliged to refer to Lieute- 
 nant Whipple's. Before leaving Fort Yuma, Dr. J. L. Milhau, surgeon 
 of the post, at my request, kindly furnished me with a copy of the me- 
 teorological register kept at the Fort for the month previous to my de- 
 parture, from which I have made the annexed extract : 
 
 State of the Thermometer {Fahrenheit) at Fort Yuma, at the junction 
 of the Colorado and Gila Rivers, from May 20£A to June l§th. Lat. 
 • 32°, 42', 09". Long. W. from Greenwich, 117°, 37', 09". 
 
 1852. 
 
 Sun 
 
 Nine, 
 
 Three, 
 
 Nine 
 
 Daily 
 
 1852 
 
 Sun 
 
 Nine, 
 
 Three, 
 
 Nine, 
 
 Daily 
 
 rise. 
 
 A. M. 
 
 P. M. 
 
 P. M. 
 
 mean. 
 
 
 rise. 
 
 A.M. 
 
 P.M. 
 
 P. M. 
 
 mean. 
 
 May 20.... 
 
 60 
 
 74 
 
 88 
 
 78 
 
 79 
 
 June 3.... 
 
 68 
 
 86 
 
 98 
 
 82 
 
 83 
 
 " 21.... 
 
 64 
 
 78 
 
 84 
 
 72 
 
 74 
 
 " 4.... 
 
 70 
 
 87 
 
 98 
 
 86 
 
 84 
 
 " 22.... 
 
 66 
 
 73 
 
 82 
 
 70 
 
 74 
 
 " 5.... 
 
 76 
 
 94 
 
 102 
 
 88 
 
 89 
 
 " 23.... 
 
 64 
 
 76 
 
 92 
 
 80 
 
 78 
 
 " 6.... 
 
 76 
 
 94 
 
 106. 
 
 88 
 
 91 
 
 " 24.... 
 
 68 
 
 82 
 
 96 
 
 88 
 
 82 
 
 " 7.... 
 
 74 
 
 92 
 
 104 
 
 86 
 
 89 
 
 " 25.... 
 
 72 
 
 84 
 
 92 
 
 92 
 
 89 
 
 " 8.... 
 
 76 
 
 90 
 
 102 
 
 92 
 
 89 
 
 " 26 
 
 74 
 
 87 
 
 104 
 
 88 
 
 89 
 
 " 9.... 
 
 78 
 
 94 
 
 104 
 
 90 
 
 91 
 
 " 27.... 
 
 72 
 
 91 
 
 104 
 
 94 
 
 88 
 
 " 10.... 
 
 79 
 
 94 
 
 105 
 
 86 
 
 92 
 
 " 28.... 
 
 78 
 
 93 
 
 104 
 
 93 
 
 91 
 
 " 11.... 
 
 74 
 
 92 
 
 106 
 
 90 
 
 90 
 
 " 29.... 
 
 78 
 
 92 
 
 104 
 
 90 
 
 91 
 
 " 12.... 
 
 74 
 
 90 
 
 104 
 
 as 
 
 89 
 
 " 30.... 
 
 78 
 
 94 
 
 104 
 
 88 
 
 91 
 
 " 13.... 
 
 74 
 
 86 
 
 102 
 
 82 
 
 88 
 
 " 31.... 
 
 74 
 
 90 
 
 100 
 
 82 
 
 87 
 
 " 14.... 
 
 72 
 
 82 
 
 92 
 
 84 
 
 8-2 
 
 June 1.... 
 
 76 
 
 88 
 
 104 
 
 82 
 
 90 
 
 " 15.... 
 
 72 
 
 84 
 
 98 
 
 82 
 
 85 
 
 " 2.... 
 
 74 
 
 88 
 
 102 
 
 84 
 
 88 
 
 " 16.... 
 
 72 
 
 88 
 
 98 
 
 80 
 
 85 
 
 In this case the thermometer was suspended beneath a thick bower 
 of bushes, which effectually shut out the sun at all times, while there 
 was a free circulation of air around. The Fort stands on an isolated 
 rock about eighty feet above the plaiu. 
 
FORT YUMA TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES. 185 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 FORT YUMA TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES. 
 
 Leave Fort Yuma — Absence of grass along the Gila — Petahaya or Giant 
 Cereus — Gila trout — Meet the surveying party — Inscribed rocks — Ex- 
 cessive heat — Night marches — Wagons found — How caches are made — 
 Particulars of the murder of Mr. Oatman and his wife — Basin of the 
 Gila — More sculptured rocks — Cross the Jornada — Great bend of the 
 river — Another desert — Toilsome march — Beach the Ooco-Maricopa 
 vl 
 
 June 17th. Major Heintzelman told me this morning 
 that, from the peculiar barking of the dogs during the 
 night, he believed the Indians had been near the fort. 
 Soon after one of the herdsmen came in, and reported 
 that he had discovered many Indian foot-prints around 
 the base of the hill. The ferrymen, who slept near, 
 were aroused at the same time, and saw from the hill 
 two fires in opposite directions, two or three miles 
 distant, near the banks of the Colorado. They were 
 doubtless intended for signals. A party of soldiers 
 was sent out to reconnoitre in the bottom around the 
 fort ; and subsequently a detachment of fifteen, under 
 command of Lieutenant Hendershott, was dispatched 
 on a scout. 
 
 Our wagons now being completed and every thing 
 in readiness, we bade farewell to our excellent friends, 
 
186 FORT YUMA 
 
 and at four o'clock, p. M., crossed the river to our camp 
 on the opposite shore, accompanied by Major Heintz- 
 elman. The mercury at noon to-day stood at 100° 
 Fahrenheit. 
 
 June IStJi. We took our departure at five o'clock 
 in the morning. As Lieutenant Whipple was actively 
 employed in completing the survey of the Gila, my 
 own party was reduced to Dr. Webb, Messrs. G. Thur- 
 ber, H. C. Pratt, and M. Seaton, which last was return- 
 ing to rejoin his party on the Rio Grande. We had 
 also, of course, the necessary attendants in servants, 
 cooks, arrieros, and herders ; and were accompanied by 
 Lieutenant Paige, with fifteen soldiers. Lieutenant 
 Whipple retained the remaining men of Colonel Craig's 
 command, and twelve of those furnished by Major 
 Heintzelman. Our provisions, baggage, and camp 
 equipage were carried partly in wagons and partly on 
 pack-mules. 
 
 We took the travelled road, which we followed for 
 two or three hours along the bottom-land on the 
 south bank of the Gila, and then turned off and fol- 
 lowed the trail of Lieutenant Whipple, which led to 
 the river. After pursuing this route a couple of miles, 
 we got entangled in so dense an undergrowth, inter- 
 spersed with little hillocks and dead trees, that our 
 progress was completely stopped. Fearing that our 
 wagons would be broken if we proceeded, we turned 
 back and attempted to regain the road ; but in this 
 direction the same impediments presented themselves. 
 Being thus brought to a stand, I sent men out to find 
 the river, as we had already been so long tugging 
 through the bottom that our mules showed much 
 
TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES. 187 
 
 weariness. The Gila was discovered within half a 
 mile ; and after doubling the teams to cross a bed of 
 loose sand, we succeeded in reaching it, and there we 
 encamped. No grass was found ; but the mules ate 
 with avidity the cane which grew on the river's banks. 
 Distance travelled, fifteen miles. 
 
 June 19th. Left camp at six o'clock; and after pro- 
 ceeding through loose sand and arroyos, and cutting 
 our way through the jungle which grew near the 
 stream, we reached the road, and soon after a spur 
 of the mountain ridge around which the river ran. In 
 going down a short and steep hill, the king-bolt of one 
 of the wagons broke, in consequence of which we 
 were compelled to unload it, which detained us about 
 an hour. Continuing our journey, we struck the Gila 
 at one o'olock ; where, to our agreeable surprise, we 
 found a small patch of coarse grass, the first we had 
 seen, excepting a tuft here and there on the desert, 
 since leaving San Felipe. For the fifteen days since 
 we left that place our animals had lived almost exclu- 
 sively upon the mezquit bean, and twigs of willow, 
 cotton-wood, and mezquit bushes. We encamped here, 
 having come twelve miles. 
 
 The bottom here does not exceed a quarter of a 
 mile in width, owing to the proximity of the moun- 
 tains on each side of the river. The vegetation con- 
 sists of willow and mezquit. We found that Lieutenant 
 Whipple had had a station near us, and had moved 
 forward but an hour before our arrival. 
 
 June 20th. Resumed our journey at half-past five 
 in the morning, over a sandy road, and soon after left 
 the bottom and ascended to the table-land, here ele- 
 
188 FORT YUMA 
 
 vated about forty feet above it. The vegetation con- 
 sisted of mezquit and palo verde. 
 
 After journeying about six miles, we overtook Lieu- 
 tenant Whipple with the surveying party, and agreed 
 to encamp together six miles further ahead. We pro- 
 ceeded to the point fixed on, which we reached at 11 
 o'clock and pitched our tents, having made but twelve 
 miles. The bottom-land continued narrow, the desert 
 approaching quite near on both sides of the river. 
 There was no grass ; but with cane and mezquit, our 
 mules did very well. 
 
 On the northern side of the river, arose a mountain 
 chain about twelve miles distant, presenting a con- 
 tinuation of fantastic summits, among which were three 
 resembling the tops of Hindu pagodas. I took a sketch 
 of these singular mountains ; although at such a dis- 
 tance, but little more than the outlines could be dis- 
 cerned. 
 
 To-day, for. the first time since leaving Fort Yuma, 
 we again encountered our friend the petahay a, or Giant 
 Cereus, which we had met with the preceding Septem- 
 ber in Sonora ; and much to our delight, we found it in 
 bloom. The fruit, too, appeared in various stages of 
 perfection. As no full and correct description has yet 
 been given to the world of this extraordinary produc- 
 tion of the vegetable kingdom, and as I had the advan- 
 tage of seeing it at different periods of the year, in flower 
 as well as in fruit, I shall endeavor to give a popular 
 account of it. The buds, flowers, fruit, seed, &o, were 
 collected by Mr. George Thurber, Botanist to the Com- 
 mission ; and by him a scientific description of it will 
 be prepared, with the aid of a distinguished botanist 
 
TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES. 
 
 189 
 
 who has paid particular attention to the cactacea of 
 North America. 
 
 JlfillM 
 
 mm km 
 
 • . 1 \ Hi i 
 
 jliPf 
 
 lif 
 
 -9 
 
 Petahaya. 
 
 This curious plant is found on the high table-lands 
 on either side of the Gila, and in various parts of the 
 State of Sonora, growing often in the crevices of rocks, 
 and in other situations where it would seem difficult 
 for any vegetable production to find sustenance. The 
 forms it assumes are various ; sometimes rising like a 
 simple fluted column, although more frequently it is 
 furnished with several branches, which, after leaving 
 the main trunk, turn gracefully upwards and rise paral- 
 
190 FORT YUMA. 
 
 lei with it. Sometimes the branches are singularly 
 contorted ; but usually, their disposition is symmetri- 
 cal, and the appearance of the whole plant has been, 
 not inaptly, compared to that of a giant candelabrum. 
 The stem is from one foot to two feet six inches in 
 diameter, usually smaller near the base, and from twen- 
 ty to fifty feet in height. This immense column is 
 admirably strengthened by a circle of ribs of strong and 
 elastic wood, which are imbedded in the cellular mass 
 of the plant, several inches within the circumference, 
 and extend to the roots. This woody portion remains 
 after the fleshy substance of the plant decays, looking 
 like a huge skeleton. The stem is marked with longi- 
 tudinal furrows, which are shallow towards the ground, 
 and deeper and more numerous towards the summit; 
 and above the ribs it is thickly set with clusters of 
 spines or thorns. Of these there are six large and 
 numerous small ones, in each cluster. As the plant 
 increases in age, the larger spines fall off, leaving a ray 
 of smaller ones, which lie close to the stem. 
 
 Most travellers who have noticed this cereus, have 
 not been fortunate enough to see the fruit and flower, 
 but have derived their accounts of them from the In- 
 dians. On our passage across the country in Septem- 
 ber, October, November, and December, we saw the 
 tree ; and on our return in June and July, we had the 
 satisfaction of beholding the fruit in perfection, and 
 occasional specimens of the flower. The plant proba- 
 bly blooms late in May, or early in June ; and the fruit 
 is matured in July and August. The flowers are borne 
 on the summits of the branches, are three inches in 
 diameter, and about the same in length. The petals 
 
TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES. 191 
 
 are stiff and curling, and of a cream -white color. The 
 stamens are yellow and very numerous. The fruit 
 is about the size and shape of an egg ; sometimes 
 rather longer than the true egg shape, having a few 
 small scales, without spines. The color of the fruit is 
 green tinged with red, when fully ripe. It consists of 
 an outer coat or skin filled with a red pulp, inclosing 
 numerous small, bla.ck, smooth seeds. The fruit, when 
 mature, bursts at the top and exposes the pulp, which at 
 this time is rather mawkish to the taste ; but a few 
 days 1 exposure to the sun dries it to about one third its 
 original bulk, and the whole mass drops out of the 
 skin. In this state it has the consistency of the pulp 
 of a dried fig ; and the saccharine matter being concen- 
 trated by drying, it somewhat resembles that fruit in 
 taste. The Pimo and other Indians, collect the pulp 
 and roll it into balls ; in which state it probably keeps 
 the whole year, as it was offered to our party which 
 passed through in January. They also boil the pulp 
 in water, and evaporate it to the consistence of molas- 
 ses; after which, it is preserved in earthen jars.* 
 
 * It has been supposed that the petahaya was first made known by 
 Major Emory in his Notes of a Military Reconnoisance, &c. in 1847 : 
 but I shall show that the plant is by no means new, and that it has been 
 noticed by many of the earlier travellers in the region where it is found. 
 
 In describing the plants of California, Venegas says, " The principal 
 is the petahaya, the fruit of which forms the great harvest of the poor 
 inhabitants here. This tree is not known in Europe, and differs from 
 all other trees in the world : its branches are fluted and rise vertically 
 from the stem, so as to form a very beautiful top ; they are without 
 leaves, the fruit growing to the boughs ; the pulp resembles that of a 
 fig, only more soft and luscious. In some it is white, in some red, and in 
 others yellow, but always of an exquisite taste ; some again are wholly 
 
192 FORT YUMA 
 
 A number of the fish called by Major Emory the 
 u Gila trout " were caught near our camp by Mr. 
 Pratt with a hook and line. They proved very pala- 
 table, where fresh fish is such a rarity ; but the flesh is 
 quite soft, owing to the warmth of the water, and 
 would scarcely be tolerated on the tables of the Atlan- 
 tic coast. " At a little distance," says Major E., " you 
 will imagine the fish covered with delicate scales; 
 but, on a closer examination, you will find that they 
 
 sweet, others of a grateful acid. And as the petahaya is very juicy, it 
 is chiefly found in dry soil." — Natural and Civil History of Califor- 
 nia. London, 1759. Vol. I. p. 42. 
 
 Father Salva Tierra, one of the most laborious of the California 
 missionaries, and who resided in that country in 1697, speaks of the 
 festivities among the Indians on the occasion of gathering the petahaya. 
 " The three petahaya months," he says, "resemble the carnival in some 
 parts of Europe, when the men are in a great measure stupefied or mad. 
 The natives here, also, throw aside what little reason they have, giving 
 themselves up to feastings, dancings, entertainments of the neighboring 
 rancherias, buffooneries, and comedies, such as they are ; and in these 
 whole nights are spent to the high diversion of the audience." — Vol. 
 II. p. 82. 
 
 Alcedo has the following article respecting it: 
 
 "Pita Haya ( Cactus Pitakaya). Arbol grande y muy singular ; 
 porque sus ramas son al modo de cirios histriados, que salien derechos 
 desde su tronco acia lo alto, no Uevan hoja alguna, y en la misma rama 
 nace pagada la fruta, que tiene la corteza llena de espinas, y se parece 
 algo a los higos de tuna, aunque la carne es mas blanca y delicada ; 
 unas la tienen roxa y otras amarilla distinguiendose tambien en dulces 
 y agridulces ; pero muy sabrosas. Monardes C da el nombre de Car- 
 din y abunda en el Jardin Botanico de esta Corte. — Dicctionario Geo- 
 grafico Historico, Tomo V. Appendix, p. 152. Madrid, 1789. 
 
 On referring to Monardes, I find his description does not correspond 
 to the Petahaya, whence it is evident he had reference to something else. 
 
 But Hernandi, another Spanish botanist, has a very full description 
 
TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES. 193 
 
 are only the impression of scales" I cannot imagine 
 what led to this mistake on the part of the Major ; for a 
 mistake it certainly is. Scales were as plainly seen on 
 all we caught as upon any fish ; and I found no diffi- 
 culty in taking them off with my finger-nails from the 
 smallest specimens. We caught them at different 
 times from eight to eighteen inches in length. 
 
 After coming into camp to-day, I determined to 
 push on with my party to the villages of the Pimo 
 
 of what he calls the Petahaya Tepexicensis, which is undoubtedly the 
 plant in question. — See Historia Plantarum Novce Hispanim. — Vol. II. 
 p. 170. Vol. III. p. 94. Matriti, Anno mdccxxxx. 
 
 Baron Humboldt says, "At the foot of the mountains of California, 
 we discover only sand, or a stony stratum, on which cylindrical cacti 
 (organos del tunal) shoot up to extraordinary heights." — Polit. Essay 
 on New Spain, Vol. II. p. 328. This name is probably derived, first, 
 from the fiutings of the stem, which resemble the pipes of an organ ; and 
 second, from the resemblance which the fruit has in taste to the tunal, 
 or Indian fig. 
 
 Pattie, an Indian trader and trapper, who spent six years (from 1824 
 to 1829) in the interior parts of the continent, during which period he 
 passed several times up and down the Gila, says, " A species of tree, which 
 I had never seen before, here arrested my attention. It grows to the 
 height of forty or fifty feet. The top is cone-shaped, and almost without 
 foliage. The bark resembles that of the prickly pear ; and the body is 
 covered with thorns. I have seen some three feet in diameter at the 
 root, and throwing up twelve distinct shafts." — Personal Narrative of 
 Six Years Journeyings, &c. p. 68. 
 
 Again, this plant is mentioned by Lieut. Hardy, who visited Sono- 
 ra in the years 1825-28. He speaks of a stick which was used for 
 " detaching the fruit from the tops of the petahaya, a plant of the cylin- 
 drical cactus species, growing from eight to twenty feet in height." And 
 in another place, he says, " Our route lay over a plain, upon which im- 
 mense quantities of the petahaya were growing." — Travels in the Inte- 
 rior of Mexico, -p. 212. 
 
 VOL. II. — -13 
 
194 FORT YUMA 
 
 Indians. There seemed to be no necessity of keeping 
 with the engineers, whose progress was, and would 
 continue to be, slow ; besides which their duties com- 
 pelled them to follow all the sinuosities of the river, 
 and keep by its bank. This not only increased the 
 distance, but obliged the parties sometimes to cut 
 passages through the bushes for the wagons and pack- 
 mules, a task attended with much labor, besides the 
 risk of breaking down. Our animals were daily grow- 
 ing weaker for the want of grass ; the weather was 
 excessively hot, the mercury ranging every day above 
 100° in the most shady places we could find ; and 
 we were without vegetables of any sort, — a depri- 
 vation which already began to show its effects upon 
 the men. For these reasons, I deemed it best for the 
 health of the party and the preservation of the ani- 
 mals to proceed in advance to the Pimo villages, where 
 an abundance of grass and vegetables could be pro- 
 cured. I accordingly made a division of our pro- 
 visions with Lieutenant Whipple and his party, and 
 left with him such an escort as he considered necessary 
 for his protection. 
 
 June 21st The road to-day was sandy, and conse- 
 quently heavy, until we reached the table-land. The 
 vegetation continued as before; mezquit, palo verde, 
 and larrea prevailing, and the great cereus occurring 
 with still greater frequency. At one o'clock we struck 
 the river where it passes within two hundred feet of a 
 bold dark-colored bluff, the termination of a short 
 mountain range, which here is about six hundred feet 
 high, and near which we encamped. Estimated dis- 
 tance travelled, seventeen miles. As the weather con- 
 
TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES. 195 
 
 tinued hot, we endeavored, by making very early 
 starts, to terminate our day's journeys by noon. 
 
 A number of fish were brought in to-day by the 
 Mexicans resembling the buffalo-fish of the Mississippi. 
 They drove them into a small nook in a laguna near 
 by, and then rushed into the water and killed them 
 with poles. I ate of them at dinner, but found them 
 soft and unpalatable. 
 
 Towards evening, when the sun began to lose its 
 force, I took my sketch-book and went to the base of 
 the bluff, where I had noticed as we passed a number 
 of inscribed rocks. I found hundreds of these bould- 
 ers covered with rude figures of men, animals, and other 
 objects of grotesque forms, all pecked in with a sharp 
 instrument. Many of them, however, were so much 
 defaced by long exposure to the weather, and by 
 subsequent markings, that it was impossible to make 
 them out. Among these rocks I found several which 
 contained sculptures on the lower side, in such a posi- 
 tion that it would be impossible to cut them where 
 they then lay. Some of them weighed many tons, 
 and would have required immense labor to place them 
 there, and that too without an apparent object. The 
 natural inference was, that they had fallen down from 
 the summit of the mountain after the sculptures were 
 made on them. A few only seemed recent; the 
 others bore the marks of great antiquity. 
 
 Like most of the rude Indian sculptures or mark- 
 ings which I have seen, I do not think these possess 
 any historic value, as many suppose. Where an inge- 
 nious Indian, for the want of other employment, cuts 
 a rude figure of a man or an animal on a rock in some 
 
196 FORT YUMA 
 
 prominent place which his people make it a practice 
 to resort to, others, with the example before them, 
 endeavor to compete with their brother artist, and 
 show their skill by similar peckings. One draws an 
 animal snch as he sees ; another makes one according 
 to his own fancy; and a third amuses himself with 
 devising grotesque or unmeaning figures of other sorts. 
 Hence we find these sculptured rocks in large num- 
 bers in prominent places. We all had the luxury of a 
 bath here ; and though the water was quite warm, we 
 found it very refreshing. We made a practice of 
 bathing wherever we could find water, believing it a 
 better preservative of health than any thing else. 
 
 June 22d. The heat had been so oppressive both 
 to the men and animals since leaving Fort Yuma, that 
 I determined to make our marches very early in the 
 morning, or at night. The cooks were accordingly 
 roused this morning at three o'clock, which enabled 
 us to get our breakfast and move off by half-past four. 
 The thermometer at sunrise stood at 69°, the lowest 
 we had seen it since leaving the coast ; and after the 
 constant heats we had had, this temperature was un- 
 comfortably cool. 
 
 We ascended the plateau to cut off a bend of the 
 river ; and after keeping on it for four or five miles, we 
 again desended into the bottom, cutting away a bank 
 in order to reach it. The plateau was as dreary and 
 desolate as before, stretching away as far as the eye 
 could reach to the south in one vast plain, interrupted 
 at intervals of ten or twenty miles with isolated moun- 
 tains rising abruptly from it. The road now became 
 better, as it wound through a dense thicket of willows 
 
SCULPTURED ROCKS, RIVKR GILA. \0 
 
SCULPTURED ROCKS, RIVER GILA, NO 2. 
 
SCULPTURED ROOKS. RIVER GILA. NO 3 
 
TO THE COCO-MARTCOPA VILLAGES. 197 
 
 and mezquit, where we could not see our way ten 
 yards ahead ; an admirable place for an ambuscade, 
 although we had no fear of any thing of the kind. It 
 was an agreeable change from the utter barrenness 
 and parching heat of the table-land to find ourselves 
 now in a thick wood. After passing the northern ter- 
 mination of " Big Horn" Mountain, we completed our 
 day's march, and encamped at eleven o'clock in a 
 thicket of willows near the river. Mr. Leroux, who 
 was in advance, soon after rode into camp with a fine 
 black-tailed deer thrown across his mule, which he 
 had just killed, and which proved delicious eating. 
 We occasionally saw these deer, as well as antelopes, 
 as we passed along ; but our numbers and the white- 
 topped wagons alarmed them. Hence it was only by 
 leaving the party and going in advance that our 
 hunters could hope for success. 
 
 During the day we passed two abandoned wagons 
 in good condition, save the injury they had received 
 from long exposure to the sun. From, one of them 
 we helped ourselves to a king-bolt, to replace the one 
 we had broken a few days before. 
 
 From the large quantity of iron strewed about, with 
 fragments of vehicles, tin kettles, and camp equipage, 
 we were evidently at a place where wagons had been 
 broken up and burned. The extent of these traces 
 showed that it was probably the place where General 
 Kearney or Colonel Cooke encamped in 1847. We 
 had discovered their camps in several instances, and 
 many years must elapse before these signs will be 
 obliterated. Distance travelled to-day, eighteen miles. 
 
 The mountains here are as desolate and barren as 
 
198 FORT YUMA 
 
 it is possible to conceive. Not a tree or a shrub could 
 be seen on them, while their bold and abrupt sides are 
 furrowed with huge chasms and gorges. Between the 
 base of the mountains and the bottom-land are low 
 gravelly hills covered with the Spanish bayonet, agave, 
 and various kinds of cacti. Our mules found a supply 
 of cane on the margin of the river, with which, and 
 twigs of willow, they made out to keep up their 
 strength. The Gila here wicfens considerably, and is 
 proportion ably shallow and filled with sand-bars. 
 
 June 23c?. A violent wind arose last night, which 
 made it necessary to put out guys to our tents to pre- 
 vent their blowing down. A great change in the 
 atmosphere took place at the same time, so that when 
 I awoke, I found perspiration checked, and was suffer- 
 ing from a severe pain in the head. Others were simi- 
 larly affected. 
 
 Left camp at five, a. m., and soon after ascended 
 the table-land, over which we travelled nine miles, the 
 river as before making a large bend to the north. 
 We could trace its course from the bright green line 
 of cotton-woods and willows, as it wound away through 
 the desert. Passed the grave of an emigrant by the 
 road side, his name being written with a pencil on a 
 strip of board and attached to a tree. Struck the 
 river for a moment, and again took to the table-land, 
 which we followed for about nine miles. We descend- 
 ed where the valley seemed to expand to the width 
 of nearly three miles, above one half of which was 
 thickly wooded with cotton-wood, mezquit, and willow. 
 Here we encamped, on the spot where parties had been 
 before. Near by was a lagoon, which had the appear- 
 
TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES. 199 
 
 ance of having been recently filled with water. It 
 was now dry, excerJt in a few holes which had been 
 dug to obtain it. We found the water in these holes 
 quite brackish, and unfit to drink ; consequently we 
 were obliged to send our animals about a mile and a 
 half through the wood to the river, from which we 
 also brought water for our own use. So thick was the 
 wood, that it was found impracticable to force our 
 wagons through. This was the most beautiful spot we 
 had encamped in since leaving the little valley of San 
 Isabel, in California. We pitched no tents, finding a 
 better and more agreeable protection in the thick 
 and overhanging willows, the leaves of which extended 
 to the ground. Beneath these bushes we were well 
 sheltered from the sun, and passed the most comfort- 
 able day we had yet experienced along the parched 
 regions of the Gila. Distance travelled, eighteen 
 miles. 
 
 We opened a cache* in the bank here, in which 
 Dr. Webb had buried a quantity of things, when the 
 party under his charge passed down the Gila in Decem- 
 ber last. Every thing was found safe and in good 
 condition. The wolves had smelled something below 
 the surface, although there were no provisions there, 
 and had dug up and exposed a corner of the tent in 
 which the articles were enveloped. Had either travel- 
 lers or Indians been here since, they would have car- 
 
 * Cache. (French). A cavity or hole in the earth, in which travel- 
 lers bury their provisions or goods. The word is used by the Hudson's 
 Bay traders, and by the hunters and trappers of the prairies, and the 
 Rocky Mountains, even to the shores of the Pacific. 
 
200 FORT YUMA 
 
 ried the investigation further. A great deal of proper- 
 ty has thus been buried by parties crossing to Cali- 
 fornia, in the hope that they or their friends might at 
 some future time recover it ; although it is safe to say 
 that of every hundred caches so made, not five are ever 
 opened afterwards. 
 
 In making a cache, it is best to select a spot within 
 fifty feet of a tree, rock, or other prominent object, 
 from which the distance can be measured and the bear- 
 ings taken. A hole is then dug to such depth as may 
 be required to bury the intended articles, which are to 
 be protected by cloths or boards when necessary. 
 When the hole has been covered over, the earth or 
 sand that remains is scattered about or removed, so as 
 to leave no indications of what has been done. It is 
 well to build the camp-fire immediately over it, as that 
 will account for the disturbance of the ground, and the 
 foot prints about the spot. It is never prudent to 
 make a cache beneath a tree, or in a spot where the 
 party can be watched by Indians or others lying in 
 ambush. When Fort Yuma was abandoned a few 
 months before our arrival there, as it was expected to 
 be re-occupied, many articles which the garrison did 
 not wish to remove were thus hidden. But on their 
 return, they found that their place of concealment 
 had been discovered by the Yumas, and every thing 
 carried off. 
 
 June liih. As the soldiers, being all on foot, were 
 greatly fatigued by their yesterday's march, I deter- 
 mined to allow them until evening to rest, and endea- 
 vor to make a march in the night. There was here a 
 little salt grass and cane about the lagoon, with willow 
 
TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES. 201 
 
 bushes for the animals ; and for ourselves, every luxury 
 that a camp life affords. 
 
 Accordingly, as the sun began to throw its long 
 shadows across the hills, and when about half an hour of 
 daylight remained, we moved from camp. The road 
 was pretty good and less sandy than before. We did 
 not now take- the table-land, but kept on a lower ter- 
 race, which seemed to lead along the spur of a dark 
 rocky hill, until we were suddenly brought to a stand. 
 The river had washed away the terrace, and left no 
 passage. We were therefore obliged to retrace our 
 steps a short distance, and pass over the hills, which 
 were exceedingly rocky, and overgrown with cacti. 
 Not being able to discern the smaller ones among the 
 rocks, the mules were several times stopped by coming 
 in contact with their thorns. From one poor creature 
 the blood flowed as though he had been purposely 
 bled ; many of the men, too, had cause to remember 
 this night's march among the cacti. At two o'clock, 
 the moon, which until then had given us a faint light, 
 went down, when we were compelled to stop, as it was 
 impossible to find our way through the light and deep 
 sand in which we then were. The packs were accord- 
 ingly removed from the mules, although the saddles 
 were left on ; and the wagon-mules were tied to the 
 mezquit bushes near. We then lay down on the bare 
 sand just where we were, and, rolling our blankets 
 around us, for it was quite cool, slept soundly until 
 daylight. 
 
 June 25th. With the break of day we were again 
 off, having no mules to catch, no tents to strike, or 
 breakfast to get. In an hour and a half we struck a 
 
202 FORT YUMA 
 
 sluice of the river, where we encamped. There was 
 no appearance of grass here ; but with plenty of wil- 
 lows and cotton-wood, the animals seemed content. As 
 we were all fatigued from our night's journey, we 
 threw ourselves on the sand, and, after a couple of 
 hours 1 sleep, awoke quite refreshed, and ready for our 
 coffee and breakfast. 
 
 All about us we found signs, that a large encamp- 
 ment of Americans had been here, with indications of 
 a cache. These were the tires of two wheels straight- 
 ened and inserted so deeply in the ground that they 
 could not be withdrawn. They were probably land 
 marks, from which bearings had been taken and dis- 
 tances measured. There had evidently been a great 
 breaking up of wagons and destruction of property 
 here. The day was very hot, and rendered more 
 oppressive by the bare sand around us. The bottom 
 land was broad, and but partially wooded. Near us 
 was a sluice, which had been filled when the river was 
 high, or it may have been a bend of the river through 
 which the water had flowed. We did not see the river. 
 Just before sunset, we resumed our journey, continu- 
 ing a few miles along the river bottom where the road 
 was good. We then ascended about one hundred and 
 twenty feet to a plateau, up a very steep and rocky 
 way, where I much feared our wagons would be crush- 
 ed ; but by the soldiers taking hold, and every man 
 pushing and pulling, we at length surmounted the hill. 
 The road was now hard and smooth, until we came to 
 an arroyo, which we had to descend, and then cross 
 over steep and rocky hills, which again endangered 
 the wagons. On reaching the crest of the table-land, 
 
TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES. 203 
 
 where we descended to the second terrace or bottom, 
 we saw numerous fragments of trunks, boxes, clothing, 
 wagons, with human bones and skulls, showing that it 
 had been the scene of some terrible disaster. A soldier of 
 the escort from Fort Yuma revealed to us the mystery. 
 
 In March of last year (1851) a party of emigrants, 
 in crossing the continent, stopped at the Pimo villages. 
 Among them was a Mr. Oatman and his family, con- 
 sisting of his wife, two daughters from 12 to 15 years 
 of age, and a son of 12 years. Mr. 0. had with him 
 one or more wagons, and a variety of merchandise; 
 and, contrary to the advice of his friends, he set off 
 from the village in advance, the rest of the party not 
 being ready to accompany him. Some days after, his 
 little son found his way back to the Pimo Indians, a 
 distance of some seventy miles, having crossed a de- 
 sert of forty -five miles without water on his way. He 
 reported that the party had been attacked by In- 
 dians, his father and mother killed, and his sisters car- 
 ried off. He himself had been badly beaten by the 
 savages and left for dead. After lying some time, he 
 revived ; when he saw the mangled bodies of his pa- 
 rents before him, his sisters gone, and the wagon plun- 
 dered of its contents. The party soon after set out 
 on their journey, accompanied by the lad and some 
 Maricopa Indians. On arriving at the scene of the 
 disaster, they covered the remains of Mr. Oatman and 
 his wife with stones (for it was impossible to dig a 
 grave), and then continued their journey to Fort Yu- 
 ma, where they informed Major Heintzelman of the 
 occurrence. 
 
 The Major immediately despatched a party of sol- 
 
204 FORT YUMA 
 
 diers with provisions for those still behind, and with 
 orders to scour the country, and endeavor, if possible, 
 to recover the missing girls. But they saw no Indians, 
 nor has it yet been ascertained by what tribe the out- 
 rage was committed. 
 
 We reached the valley again at 11 p. m., when we 
 stopped for the remainder of the night, and lay down 
 on the sand to get a few hours sleep. The air was so 
 dry and hot, that tents were unnecessary. 
 
 June 26th. Finding no grass, cane, or bushes near 
 us on which the animals could feed, we moved off, soon 
 after 4 o'clock, with the break of day. Our route now 
 lay across a bed of sand so light that the wheels sank 
 deep, rendering it necesary to double one of the teams 
 before we could pass it. Even with the aid of this 
 device, it was slow work. It now became necessary 
 to cross the Gila, as the plateau rose abruptly from the 
 margin of the river, not leaving a passage wide enough 
 for a mule. Our route had hitherto been wholly on 
 the south side since leaving the Colorado. I do not 
 think the north side would present as good a road ; 
 besides which, it would be necessary, if the north bank 
 should be followed, to cross the Gila at its mouth, as 
 the Colorado cannot be forded above the junction. 
 
 The river where we crossed was about three feet 
 deep in the channel. After getting over, we had to 
 traverse another half mile of deep sand, and then 
 recross, to get on the southern bank once more. At 
 the second crossing my wagon sank so deep in a quick- 
 sand, that the mules, after struggling in vain to pull it 
 out, .broke the traces and left me alone in the middle 
 of the stream. It was necessary to attach four mules 
 
TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES. 
 
 205 
 
 to it before it could be drawn out. We now con- 
 tinued another half mile near the base of a black -look- 
 ing rocky bluff without a tree to shade us. I thought 
 it best to stop here, as we could not reach the next 
 bend in the river before the sun would be too far up 
 to travel. The bottom-land, or valley, which is visible 
 
 Basin of tlie Gila. 
 
 from the summit of this bluff for twenty miles, is alto- 
 gether sand, with a few clumps of willows on the mar- 
 gin of the river. Not an acre of arable land is visible. 
 The bluff, which is but the termination of the plateau 
 or desert, rises about one hundred and twenty feet 
 above the bed of the stream. The river from here is 
 quite open on the north and west, so that the moun- 
 
206 FORT YUMA 
 
 tains on the Colorado which we saw at Fort Yuma 
 were distinctly visible. 
 
 In order to examine some sculptured rocks of which 
 I had heard, I left camp at 5 o'clock p. m. accompanied 
 by Doctor Webb, in advance of the train. After cross- 
 ing a plain for about five miles, we reached the object 
 of our search, which consisted of a pile of large boul- 
 ders, heaped up some forty or fifty feet above the 
 plain, and standing entirely alone. Such of these rocks 
 as present smooth sides are covered with sculptures, 
 rudely pecked in, of animals and men, as well as of 
 various figures, apparently without meaning. There 
 are hundreds of them so ornamented, showing that the 
 place has long been the resort of the Indians for this 
 purpose ; for there seems to be nothing else to attract 
 them here. Many of the inscriptions, like those before 
 described, bear the stamp of great age, others having 
 been made over them repeatedly, rendering it impos- 
 sible to trace out either the early or the later mark- 
 ings. I selected thirteen, of which I made copies. 
 By this time the shades of night were falling about us ; 
 and the train having already passed, it was necessary 
 to hasten on to overtake it. I regretted that I could 
 not spend the day in this interesting locality, in order 
 to copy more of the sculptures, as well as to make a 
 closer examination of the many recesses among the 
 rocks. I do not attempt any explanation of these rude 
 figures, but must leave the reader to exercise his own 
 ingenuity in finding out their meaning, if any. 
 
 Leaving this place we entered an arroyo of gravel ; 
 and after following it for two or three miles, we 
 ascended a very difficult and rocky hill to the plateau. 
 
SCULPTURED ROCKS, RIVER GILA. No. 4 
 
SCULPTURED ROCKS. RIVER GILA. NO. 5 
 
SCULPTURE!* ROCKS. HTVER GILA SO 
 
TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES. 207 
 
 A spur or projection of this hill had to be crossed ; 
 and then, by an easy slope, we again descended to a 
 lower terrace. After marching about eighteen miles, 
 by the bright light of the moon, we stopped the train 
 and bivouacked in the sand till morning, without 
 turning out the mules. 
 
 June 28th. We rested comfortably on our sandy 
 beds, and resuming our march before five o'clock this 
 morning, reached a bend in the river four miles dis- 
 tant. As the soldiers had had a tedious march during 
 the night, and evinced much fatigue, I concluded to 
 remain here during the clay to give them rest. 
 
 Our camp was in a very dense thicket of willows 
 and cotton-woods near the river's bank, into which we 
 cut our way with axes. Here we had an admirable 
 retreat, whose recesses the rays of the sun could not 
 penetrate ; and we passed the day with some degree of 
 comfort. The Gila rippled close by ; and a deep hole 
 being near us which we thought might have some 
 attractions for trout, should any stray this way, we 
 rigged our lines, and the experiment was rewarded 
 with several fine fish. 
 
 In the night we were aroused by the firing of a 
 gun. Every one sprang from his bed, believing an 
 enemy near ; but it proved to be an accident. One 
 of the Mexican arrieros, in attempting to pull his rifle 
 out from a pile of saddles with the muzzle towards 
 him, having caught the trigger and discharged it. 
 The stupid fellow narrowly escaped with his life, for 
 the ball passed through his hand. 
 
 Soon after five o'clock, p. m., we resumed our jour- 
 ney ; and after a march of eight miles across a bend, 
 
208 FORT YUMA 
 
 we again struck the river near a point where our sur- 
 veying parties had had a station, and had remained 
 several days. There we found an abundance of mez- 
 quit and willows, but no appearance of grass. Near us 
 was a sluice, which a year before was the main branch 
 of the river, the stream having since found another 
 channel. We bivouacked at this place, doubtful whe- 
 ther we should find as good feed for the mules by 
 proceeding further, the mezquit beans being now in 
 the best state for the animals. 
 
 June 2dth. Before the sun had risen we were 
 again on our way, intending to stop at the last water- 
 ing place, five or six miles in advance. My desire 
 was to keep the animals fresh and in good condition 
 for the march across the long desert which lay before 
 us, and to give the soldiers a day's rest before setting 
 out. The Gila here makes a bend to the north, and 
 is not again seen from the road until it reaches the 
 Coco-Maricopa villages, forty-five miles distant. As 
 there is no water the whole distance, the jourfley must 
 be made in one march, without stopping ; to prepare 
 for it, therefore, we encamped for the day in a mez- 
 quit grove near the river. 
 
 The kegs and canteens were filled with water pre- 
 paratory for the journey ; and in order to give the 
 soldiers a little the start of us, they set off at four 
 o'clock. The train left an hour and a half later, our 
 course being east by north. We entered at once upon 
 the great plateau or desert, where the road was level 
 and hard. The animals moved off at a quick gait, and 
 had seemingly got the idea that they w r ere approach- 
 ing grassy fields. About fifteen miles brought us to 
 
TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES. ' 209 
 
 a mountain range which had long loomed up before 
 us, and seemed to present an impassable barrier to our 
 progress ; but as we drew near, what appeared at a 
 distance to be continuous, now showed many passages 
 through, of easy access, and with an ascent so gradual 
 as to be scarcely apparent. The great mountain 
 chain, as it seemed to us to be, was in reality a collec- 
 tion of detached ridges and isolated mountains rising 
 abruptly from the desert. We were accordingly able 
 to keep on our course, winding through these mountains 
 with scarcely an ascent or descent worth naming. The 
 road was excellent through all the defiles; although 
 there were many small gullies requiring care in cross- 
 ing, and which shows that there are very heavy rains 
 here at times. 
 
 The vegetation on this desert is the same as on the 
 several portions we had from time to time passed over 
 in our journey from the Colorado. The great cereus 
 here raises its lofty head above all other plants, attain- 
 ing its greatest perfection in this barren and desolate 
 region. We passed several of gigantic dimensions, 
 and others of a variety of forms, exhibiting singular 
 contortions. If one unused to these remarkable plants 
 should suddenly be brought to this place, where he 
 would see before him a vast plain studded with thou- 
 sands of these cacti, many of which rise to the height 
 of twenty or thirty feet, in a single stem without a 
 branch, he would be very likely, particularly if he saw 
 them as we did by moonlight, to imagine himself in 
 the midst of the ruins of a magnificent palace, the 
 columns of which were alone left standing. The lesser 
 plants, thinly scattered over the plain, are a dwarfish 
 VOL. n. — 14 
 
210 FORT YUMA 
 
 mezquit and larrea Mexicana, with an occasional palo 
 verde in the arroyos. 
 
 Towards midnight, the pack-mules passed me ; for 
 up to this time I had been in advance. I had observed 
 before, that in long marches, when the wagon-mules 
 became fatigued, those with packs would quicken their 
 pace. My wagon-mules, unwilling to be left, increased 
 their pace, and I allowed them to keep just far enough 
 behind the packs to avoid the dust. As there was no 
 stopping the pack-mules without relieving them of 
 their burdens, Mr. Leroux said it would be far better 
 to push on until we reached the water and grass ; and 
 I determined with my little wagon to keep with him. 
 It was now about two o'clock, and the soldiers as well 
 as the horsemen were so much fatigued, that the 
 wagons were stopped, and all threw themselves down 
 just as they were to get a little rest on the bare desert, 
 hitching their mules to their waists by their long 
 lariats. I left them, and hastened forward with Mr. 
 Leroux and the packs. 
 
 June 30th. At daylight we passed the south end of 
 a range of mountains which extend to the Gila, termi- 
 nating near the mouth of the Salinas River ; and at half 
 past six we reached some water-holes, about a mile from 
 the first Coco-Maricopa village, thus making the journey 
 of forty-five miles in thirteen hours. This may be con- 
 sidered slow in the age of locomotives and steamers, 
 or even with stage-coaches ; but with a train of emaci- 
 ated pack -mules, each carrying on his back two hun- 
 dred and fifty pounds weight, and going the whole 
 distance without a particle of food or water, it is some- 
 thing of a feat. 
 
TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES. 211 
 
 It was indeed a pleasant sight to find ourselves 
 once more surrounded by luxuriant grass. Although 
 we had met with a little salt grass in one or two places 
 on the march, which no animal would eat if he could 
 get any thing else, we had not seen a patch of good 
 grass since leaving our camp at San Isabel, fifty-six 
 miles from San Diego. At Vallecita and Carrizo Creek 
 it is indifferent. 
 
 As it would yet be several hours before we could 
 look for the wagons and the remainder of the party, 
 we turned the mules out to luxuriate on the rich pasture 
 before them, and creeping under some mezquit bushes 
 soon fell asleep, rest being more desirable than food. 
 
 The wagons with the rest of the party, including 
 the escort, came in at half-past ten. We now got out 
 all the tents, and arranged our camp with much care, 
 as we were to be here for some days, to await the arri- 
 val of Lieutenant Whipple and the surveying party. 
 We selected a spot in which there was a pretty grove 
 of mezquit bushes, and there we pitched the tents. 
 The water here is found in several holes, from four to 
 six feet below the surface, which were dug by Colonel 
 Cooke on his march to California. In some of these 
 holes the water is brackish, in others very pure. The 
 Gila passes about two miles to the north ; for one half 
 of which distance the grass extends, the other half 
 being loose sand. Major Emory, in his report,* re- 
 commends parties going to California by this route 
 not to cross the plateau which we had just come 
 over, but to keep to the river, as " the journey is but 
 
 * Notes of Military Reconnoissance, p. 89. 
 
212 FORT YUMA TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES. 
 
 a trifle longer." The accounts on which he bases this 
 recommendation were erroneous, the route along the 
 river being more than double the distance, as reported 
 to me by the engineers whose duties required them to 
 follow it. It is besides thickly wooded, and would pre- 
 sent difficulties to wagons, and even to pack-mules ; 
 whereas the road over the plateau which we took is 
 excellent all the way. It is also proper to state, that 
 Lieutenant Whipple and Mr. Gray found the bend of 
 the river to be much greater than it is laid down by 
 Major Emory on his map." 25 " 
 
 * Mr. Gray in his official letter to the Secretary of the Interior, from 
 San Diego, relating to the survey of the Gila, says, that " many errors of 
 others who had been along this river, in astronomical observations, 
 were corrected by Lieutenant Whipple." — Senate Doc. No. 119. 32c? 
 Cong. 1st Session, p. 307. 
 
 It may be mentioned in this connection, that the survey of the 
 Boundary Commission brought to light two important geographical 
 facts. One was, that the Colorado, after receiving the Gila, takes a 
 sudden turn of seven or eia'ht miles to the westward before resuming 
 its southerly direction, which turn gives the United States both banks 
 of the river. The other was the error in laying down the great bend just 
 below the mouth of the Salinas. Yet both these supposed discoveries 
 were made by Father Kino before the year 1700, although they never 
 obtained a place in the maps ; for in speaking of this eminent mission- 
 ary and geographical explorer, Alegro says : " En este viage observo el 
 padre Kino dos cosas, entre otras : la primera que el Gila como a 55 
 grados de San Geronimo, despues de haber corrido cuasi constantemento 
 al Ouest, vuelve como por espacio de ocho leguas al Norte. La se- 
 gunda, que despues de juntos el Gita y el Colorado, corren por doce 
 leguas al Poniente antes de volver acia el Sur a desembocar en el Seno 
 Californio." — Alec/re Hist, de la Compania de Jesus en Nueva Espana. 
 Tom. iii. p. 119. 
 
THE COCO-MARICOPA AND THE PIMO INDIANS. 213 
 
 CHAPTER XXX. 
 
 THE COCO-MARICOPA AND THE PIMO INDIANS. 
 
 Visit from the Coco-Maricopa Indians — Camp removed to the banks of the 
 Gila — The river dry — No grass — War party — Keturn to our first camp 
 — Traffic with these Indians— Further accounts of the Oatman family 
 — Francisco the Maricopa interpreter — Feeding the tribe — Visit from 
 the Pimos — Religious notions of these tribes — Their manners and cus- 
 toms — Agriculture — Art of spinning and weaving — Manufactures ot 
 cotton — Pottery — Basket-work — Dress — Their attempts at collecting 
 zoological specimens — Villages — Houses and mode of building — Store- 
 houses — Horses and cattle. 
 
 In the afternoon our camp was filled with the Coco- 
 Maricopa Indians, who had discovered us from some 
 of their look-outs. They all manifested a friendly dis- 
 position, and seemed very glad to meet among us so 
 many of their old acquaintances, several of the party 
 having spent some days among them while engaged 
 in surveying the river. The most active and important 
 man among them was a chief named Francisco Dukey. 
 He had been in various parts of Mexico and California, 
 spoke Spanish fluently, and acted as our interpreter. 
 There were three or four others who had lived for 
 some time at Tucson, where they had picked up suffi- 
 cient Spanish to make themselves understood. 
 
214 THE COCO-MARICOPA AND 
 
 I told them we wanted vegetables, fruit, green 
 corn, and mules; for which we would pay them in 
 white cotton cloth, calico, red flannel and other shirts, 
 blankets, and trinkets. They generally raise a great 
 many fine melons ; but it was too early yet for them. 
 They brought us green corn, squashes, beans, and 
 dried peas. We also bought of them some dried 
 corn (maize) for the animals. 
 
 The culinary department, as usual, seemed to have 
 most attractions for our Indian friends, who formed a 
 •double row around the fire while cooking was going 
 on. They also crowded into the tents, and occupied 
 all the space about them. When night came, we 
 expected they would leave ; but they stretched them- 
 selves out on the grass, and passed the night in the 
 camp. 
 
 June 30t7i. As the heat was intense, the mercury 
 ranging from 100° to 110°, and as we had very little 
 shade, it was thought advisable to get nearer the 
 river, where there were more trees, and where the 
 men would have a better opportunity to bathe, a lux- 
 ury which they had enjoyed eyery day since leaving 
 Fort Yuma. The Indians told me we had better 
 remain where we were, as there was no grass near the 
 river. I felt disposed to listen to them ; but such was 
 the desire of the party to be on the water that I con- 
 sented to go, and gave orders to strike the tents imme- 
 diately after breakfast. 
 
 By eight o'clock we set off, under the guidance of 
 Francisco, and followed by fifty or sixty more of his 
 tribe. After crossing a deep arroyo of sand, which is 
 filled by the river at its floods, and pushing our way 
 
THE PIMO INDIANS. 215 
 
 through a thick underbrush of willows, we at length 
 reached the bank of the river, when I found the state- 
 ments of the Indians too true. There were many fine 
 large cotton-wood trees, beneath which we stopped, 
 and which afforded us a good shade from the scorching 
 rays of the sun ; but there was not a blade of grass to 
 be seen, and, what was worse, the Gila was dry ! We 
 crossed and recrossed its bed without wetting the soles 
 of our shoes ; although by digging a couple of feet, 
 we found water for ourselves and our animals. 
 
 We now turned the animals loose to browse upon 
 the twigs of the willows and cotton-woods, as there 
 was no other food for them ; and I sent Mr. Leroux 
 up the stream, in search of the two great desiderata 
 for the party, grass and water, and shade if it was to be 
 found. In three or four hours, after making a diligent 
 search through the bottom, he returned and reported 
 that the river was dry as far as he had followed it, 
 and that he had met with no grass. In fact, he was 
 told by the Indians, that we should find no grass until 
 we passed the Pimo villages, from twelve to fifteen 
 miles beyond. It was so hot and dry where we were, 
 that we did not pitch our tents, having concluded to 
 retrace our steps in the morning to our first camp at 
 the water -holes. 
 
 The dryness of the river was produced by the 
 water having been turned off by the Indians to irrigate 
 their lands, for which the whole stream seemed' barely 
 sufficient. It is probable, however, that, with more 
 economical management, it might be made to go much 
 further. 
 
 A party of the Coco-Maricopas remained with us 
 
216 THE COCO-MARICOPA AND 
 
 to-day, who were to set off in the morning on an expe- 
 dition against their enemies, the Apaches, north of the 
 Salinas. They were gayly dressed, as is the universal 
 custom of the Indians on such occasions, and mounted 
 on good-looking horses. The chiefs who were to lead 
 the band begged hard of me to lend them a few rifles 
 with the necessary ammunition ; which I had to refuse. 
 As an additional inducement, which they thought I 
 could not refuse, they offered to bring me a live 
 Apache boy, and a girl too, if I wished ; but having 
 no desire for such additions to our party, I was com 
 pelled to decline the generous proposal. 
 
 July 1st. Our Indian friends composing the war 
 party were up at daylight preparing for a start. They 
 seemed to be supplied with small loaves of bread and 
 dried meat, of which they made their morning's meal. 
 They then decorated themselves with all the finery 
 they could muster. Most of them had shirts of white 
 cotton or red flannel, which they had obtained of us, 
 and which they seemed to regard as the beau-ideal of 
 a dress, without the addition of any other garment. 
 Such as had their own cotton blankets, placed them 
 around their bodies in folds, and over this wound their 
 lariats as tight as possible ; for the double purpose, I 
 suppose, of bracing their bodies, and of protecting 
 their vital parts from arrows. Those who possessed 
 neither shirts nor blankets, remained as nature made 
 them, with the addition of a little paint. On their 
 head dresses, they had all bestowed more attention 
 than on their bodies. Some had them plastered with 
 clay, so as to resemble huge turbans. Others had 
 decorated the great club of hair which hung down 
 
THE PIMO INDIANS. 217 
 
 their backs with bits of scarlet cloth, but more of 
 them with the richly -figured sashes or belts of their 
 own manufacture. Some again wore their hair in 
 braids tastefully wound around their heads, intermin- 
 gled with pieces of scarlet cloth ; while a few, less par- 
 ticular as to their appearance, wore it clubbed up 
 behind in a huge mass. The manes and tails of their 
 horses were also set off with bits of white and red 
 cloth. Their arms were solely the bow and arrow : 
 most of them had a skin quiver hung across their 
 backs ; though a few carried their arrows in their gir- 
 dles. There was quite an exciting time as the party 
 were about to start; and several of the Commission 
 desired to take their rifles and accompany them, a 
 request which was of course refused. 
 
 Wishing to get back to our old camp in the cool of 
 the morning, we did not wait for breakfast, but were 
 off by five o'clock, and, after another hard tug through 
 the sand, reached the camping ground, where we had 
 every thing we could ask for, except shade, and water 
 to bathe in. The latter was the greatest deprivation. 
 The tents were again pitched, and the camp arranged 
 as it was on the day of our arrival. 
 
 The Indians again flocked around us, and in greater 
 numbers than before. The Pimos having heard of our 
 arrival, many of them came also, bringing such vege- 
 tables as they had, together with jpinole, made both 
 from wheat and corn. Some of the pinole was sweet- 
 ened with the flour of mezquit beans, which they also 
 brought separate in small earthen vases, or ollas, as the 
 Mexicans call them. The mezquit flour, which is ground 
 very fine, has a sickish sweetness ; so that, although I 
 
218 THE COCO-MARICOPA AND 
 
 became fond of the beans in the pod, and liked to pick 
 them from the trees as we rode along, I could not eat 
 them when dry and converted into flour. They also 
 brought us the fruit of the petahaya rolled up in masses 
 or balls as large as one's fist. In this state it resem- 
 bles in appearance the pulp of figs, and has something 
 of the same taste mingled with that of the raspberry. 
 We had gathered some as we came along the Gila, but 
 had found none so good as this. All became very 
 fond of it, and our Indian friends found a ready sale 
 for all they brought. Jars of molasses extracted from 
 the same were also offered for sale. 
 
 I inquired of the Indians to-day what they knew of 
 the murder of the Oatman family before mentioned. 
 They remembered the affair well ; indeed one of the 
 chiefs present had accompanied the party after the 
 committal of the murder. His statement corresponded 
 with what I have related. They charged the Tonto 
 Apaches with the crime, and said, " With God's per- 
 mission, we will retake the two children, and restore 
 them to the Americans." I told them they should be 
 well rewarded, if they would do so ; and that if so for- 
 tunate as to recover them, they might take them to 
 'the American Fort (Yuma) on the Colorado ; or if 
 •they could not carry them there, to the Mexican com- 
 manding officer at Tucson. 
 
 Among the Maricopas, I noticed to-day three whom 
 I had seen in Ures when there last winter, and to whom 
 I had given notes of recommendation. They now 
 showed them to me carefully wrapped up in several 
 envelopes, and deposited in a bag of black skin. All 
 the chiefs, both Pimos and Coco-Maricopas, have let- 
 
THE PIMO INDIANS. 219 
 
 ters which they have obtained from passing emigrants, 
 recommending them to the favor and kind treatment 
 of others. They prize these certificates very highly. 
 
 July 2d. This morning, Francisco, the Maricopa in- 
 terpreter, breakfasted with me, and, from his ease at 
 table, showed that he had been among civilized people 
 before. He was well dressed, having on pantaloons, a 
 shirt, and hat. He is a man of much intelligence an4 
 shrewdness, and expressed a desire to serve us. The 
 Americans who had been through these villages before, 
 he said, had given his people very little, although they 
 had done much for them. They had brought the 
 Americans wood and water, and had acted as guides, 
 sometimes accompanying them many miles, and he him- 
 self had acted as interpreter for all parties, but had 
 received little or nothing in return. Besides this, his 
 people had often given corn, melons, and vegetables, 
 to ours ; but the Americans had told them they were 
 very poor (as they doubtless were), and had neither 
 clothes nor goods with which to reward their kind- 
 ness. He said they sometimes received money 
 from the Americans ; but it was of little use to them, 
 as they wanted manta (white cotton) and shirts. I told 
 Francisco, in reply, that those he referred to were 
 mostly families of poor emigrants, who had left their 
 homes, and were going to California in the hope of 
 doing better ; and that before I left, if his people con- 
 ducted themselves well, I would not only pay him for 
 all I received, but would make him and the other chiefs 
 of his tribe presents, to induce them to treat all other 
 Americans who might pass their villages with kind- 
 ness, and supply them with what they could spare. 
 
 
220 THE COCO-MARICOPA AND 
 
 There was one practice of this chief that was not 
 so agreeable to me, namely, that of helping his friends 
 to the choicest bits from my table. When we took 
 our places, they all assembled, and sat or stood gaping 
 around. Francisco, during the meal, occasionally hand- 
 ed them a piece of bread or meat ; and when we had 
 finished, he coolly piled up his plate, and passed it 
 around among his friends. At first, I was rather 
 amused at the fellow's impudence ; but on a subse- 
 quent occasion, he carried the joke still further, not only 
 giving them' what he had collected on his own plate, 
 but stripping the table of all that remained, so as to 
 leave nothing for my cook and servant. As our sup- 
 ply of provisions was limited, I had no idea of feed- 
 ing so many hungry mouths, which had an abundance 
 at home ; consequently my second invitation to the 
 chief, was the last. Yet he made his appearance regu- 
 larly every morning while we remained, and gave 
 many hints about being hungry, expressing his surprise 
 to the cook that he did not have a seat at my table. 
 I told him, finally, that it was not the custom among 
 Americans, when they asked a friend to their table, to 
 feed his whole tribe. 
 
 This man afterwards became quite a bore to us ; for 
 nothing would satisfy his avarice. I gave him shirts, 
 pantaloons, white cotton, and calico, besides beads and 
 trinkets for his wife and children. Lieut. Paige, also, 
 made him some valuable presents ; but he constantly 
 asked for more, and was most importunate for whiskey. 
 I told him we had none ; but this he seemed to doubt, 
 declaring that we were the first party of Americans he 
 had ever seen that did not drink whiskey. Every 
 
THE PIMO INDIANS. 221 
 
 junk bottle he saw about my tent or Wagon, was sus- 
 pected to contain the forbidden liquor ; and nothing 
 would satisfy him until he examined them himself. 
 After finding in one lemon syrup, in another vinegar, 
 and in a third a mixture for diarrhoea, which communi- 
 cated an unpleasant pucker to his mouth, the fellow gave 
 up all hopes of obtaining the obj ect of his search. Much 
 harm has been done by Americans in giving this poor 
 and simple-hearted people intoxicating drinks ; and it 
 is a matter of satisfaction to me to state, that in my 
 long intercourse with the Indians here, as well as at the 
 Copper Mines with the Apaches, none ever got a drop 
 of liquor from me, or from my camp to my knowledge. 
 
 In the evening, while a crowd of Indians were lying 
 or squatting around my tent, I had a long talk with a 
 Maricopa, whose name I forget (but who spoke Span- 
 ish well), on the manners and customs of his people. 
 This man was terribly crippled, having a year before 
 been engaged in a fight with the Yumas, in which his 
 party was defeated. He was lanced in many places, 
 beaten with clubs, his hair cut off, and left for dead. 
 After the combatants had left, he revived, and by 
 some means succeeded in getting home. He was still 
 unable to walk, except with a long staff, but had to be 
 lifted on his horse, and rode about with some diffi- 
 culty. He was quite an intelligent man, and, while we 
 remained, was constantly in our camp. 
 
 He said the Coco-Maricopas came here not many 
 years before, to escape from the Yumas, with whom 
 they were constantly at war, and by whom they had 
 been greatly reduced in numbers. Their former range 
 was along the valley of the Gila, on the opposite side 
 
222 THE COCO-MARICOPA AND 
 
 of the Jornada and towards the Colorado. Their pre- 
 sent position adjoining the Pinios, was chosen for the 
 benefit of mutual protection. 
 
 This people restrict themselves to a single wife. 
 Their ideas of a Supreme Being, in whose existence 
 they believe, are of so vague a nature that I could not 
 ascertain them with exactness. After death, they 
 believe that their souls go to the banks of the Colorado, 
 their ancient dwelling-place, and there take refuge in 
 the great sand hills, where they are metamorphosed 
 into various animals and birds. Their heads, hands, 
 feet, etc., each become owls, bats, wolves, and other 
 animals. They believe, too, that the souls of their ene- 
 mies, the Yumas, also find a place there ; and that the 
 wars which have so long existed between them on earth, 
 will be continued there, after death. 
 
 When a man desires to marry, and has made choice 
 of a girl for his wife, he first endeavors to win over 
 her parents by making them presents. The fair one's 
 attention is sought by another process. To do this, he 
 takes his flute, an instrument of cane with four holes, 
 and, seating himself beneath a bush near her dwell- 
 ing, keeps up a plaintive noise for hours together. 
 This music is continued day after day ; and if no 
 notice is at length taken of him by the girl, he may 
 *•' hang up his flute," as it is tantamount to a rejec- 
 tion. If the proposal is agreeable, the fair one 
 makes it known to the suitor, when the conquest is 
 considered complete. No girl is forced to marry against 
 her will, however eligible her parents may consider 
 the match. Whenever a girl marries, it is expected 
 that her husband will present her parents with as much 
 
THE PIMO INDIANS. 223 
 
 as his means will permit, to compensate them for the 
 loss of their daughter, whose services are to" them a 
 matter of consequence. 
 
 Indian Flute, and Eattle of Deer's Hoofs. 
 
 Among both the Coco-Maricopas and the Pimos, 
 the women do the principal part of the work. Besides 
 taking care of the children and attending to the house- 
 hold matters, they grind the corn, make baskets, gather 
 mezquit beans, help till the ground, and sometimes 
 spin and weave. 
 
 The men plant and gather the crops, and take care 
 of the animals. This I believe is all they do ; and as 
 the performance of these duties is not a very onerous 
 task, they are idle the greater portion of the time. Their 
 implements of husbandry are steel hoes and axes which 
 they obtain from the Mexicans, harrows, and occasion- 
 ally a long-handled spade. Grinding corn on the me- 
 tates, or stones, is a work of great labor, and comes 
 hard on the poor women, who are obliged to get upon 
 their knees, and exert the whole strength of their arms 
 
224 THE COCO-MARICOPA AND 
 
 and bodies in the task. I have seen women thus em- 
 ployed when the thermometer stood at 110°, while 
 their lords lay stretched out at length on their backs 
 looking on. 
 
 Water is invariably brought by the women in large 
 earthen vessels upon their heads resting upon a small 
 cushion. Some of these vessels hold six gallons. This 
 mode of carrying burdens, by which the body is kept 
 in a perfectly erect position, tends greatly to develope 
 the chest and add to the general beauty of the figure. 
 Hence we see among the Indians, as well as among the 
 lower class of Mexicans, forms which Walker might 
 well have taken for models in his "Analysis of Beauty 
 in Women." 
 
 As the manners and customs of the Pinios and 
 Coco-Maricopas are the same, with the exception of 
 their rites of burial, I shall include both in describing 
 these customs ; although there is little doubt but that 
 the knowledge of the arts which they possess originated 
 with the Pimos. Cotton is raised by them,* which 
 they spin and weave. Their only manufactures consist 
 of blankets of various textures and sizes ; a heavy cloth 
 of the same material used by the women to put around 
 their loins; and an article from three to four inches 
 wide, used as a band for the head, or a girdle for the 
 waist. The blankets are woven with large threads, 
 slightly twisted and without any nap. They are made 
 of white cotton, and are without ornament of colors or 
 figures, save a narrow selvage of buff. 
 
 * I brought home with me the seeds with samples of this cotton, 
 which was pronounced equal to the best Sea Island. The seeds I dis- 
 tributed among various planters. 
 
THE PIMO INDIANS. 
 
 225 
 
 The implements used by these 'tribes for spinning 
 and weaving are of the most primitive character. A 
 slender stick about two feet long passing through a 
 block of wood which serves to keep up the momentum 
 imparted to it, constitutes the spindle. One end of 
 this rests on a wooden cup inserted between the toes, 
 
 ■^ 
 
 Indian weaving 
 
 and the other is held and twirled by the fingers of the 
 right hand ; while the left hand is occupied in draw- 
 ing out the thread from the supply of cotton, which is 
 coiled upon the left arm in loose rolls. 
 
 In weaving, the warp is attached to two sticks, and 
 
 VOL. IX. 15 
 
226 THE COCO-MAKICOPA AND 
 
 stretched upon the ground by means of stakes. Each 
 alternate thread of the warp is passed round a piece of 
 cane, which, being lifted, opens a passage for the shut- 
 tle in the manner of a sley. The operator sits in the 
 fashion of a tailor, #nd, raising the sley with one hand, 
 with the other passes the shuttle, which is simply a 
 pointed stick with the thread wound upon it, between 
 the threads of the warp. The work is beaten up after 
 the passage of each thread by the use of a sharp smooth- 
 edged instrument made of hard wood. The operation 
 of course progresses slowly ; and from the length of 
 time consumed in spinning and weaving, they set a 
 high price upon their blankets, asking for them ten or 
 twelve dollars in money, or a new woollen blanket of 
 equal size. The weaving is generally done by the old 
 men. 
 
 The head-band or girdle consists of a white ground 
 with a variety of figures of red, blue, and buff The 
 figures are angular, and, though they present a great 
 variety, are all of one general character. The colored 
 portions of these belts are made of wool, and the colors 
 are quite brilliant. On examining the patterns on these 
 bands, one is struck with their general resemblance to 
 the figures on the ancient pottery found among the 
 ruins of this country, a comparison with which will be 
 made hereafter. 
 
 The pottery made by these tribes is all red or dark 
 brown, the latter a blending of black and red. The 
 articles made are very limited, though, perhaps, quite 
 sufficient for their wants. In fact, they are the same 
 as those made and in use by the Mexicans. They con- 
 sist of ollas, or vases, of every size, the largest holding 
 
THE PIMO INDIANS. 
 
 227 
 
 about two pailfulls, and the smallest half a pint ; jars 
 with small apertures, resembling bottles ; basins of dif- 
 ferent sizes and forms, from that of a milk-pan to a 
 saucer ; and oblong vessels of small dimensions used 
 as dippers. All these vessels are painted or ornamented 
 with black lines arranged in geometrical figures, and of 
 a character resembling those on the head-bands. 
 
 Baskets and Pottery of the Pimos and Coco-Maricopas. 
 
 The basket work of this people is remarkably well 
 made of willow twigs, and so close as to be impervious 
 to water. The baskets are of various shapes, and are 
 used for different purposes. Those of a large basin- 
 like form are the most common. These they carry on 
 their heads filled with corn or other articles. Like 
 
228 
 
 THE COCO-MARICOPA AND 
 
 the pottery, they are ornamented with geometrical 
 figures, arranged with much taste. ' 
 
 The dress of the Coco-Maricopas and the Pimos is 
 the same. The women fold the smaller blankets or 
 other cloths, and pass them around their loins, letting 
 them hang to their knees. They are sometimes 
 fastened with one of the belts before mentioned, but 
 are generally kept in place by simply tucking one end 
 in. Sandals of raw hide are worn on the feet. No- 
 thing is worn on the head, nor is the hair ever tied up. 
 
 In front it is cut off square across the eyebrows ; the 
 rest is suffered to hang loosely over the ears, neck, 
 and about half way down the back, affording a pro- 
 tection to these parts from the intense heat of the sun. 
 It is a universal custom among the women when they 
 arrive at maturity, to draw two lines with some blue- 
 colored dye from each corner of the mouth to the chin. 
 This is pricked in with some pointed instrument, and 
 remains through life. Occasionally a fair one gets a 
 
THE PIMO INDIANS. 229 
 
 string of beads ; but I saw more men and boys with 
 these ornaments than women. One boy in particular, 
 who might pass for a dandy among them, wore some 
 twenty or more strings of beads. The body, arms, 
 and legs of the women are naked. They generally 
 have fine forms; for which they are indebted, as I 
 have before remarked, to their mode of carrying bur- 
 dens on their heads. In this respect, there is a marked 
 difference between them and the men, who are gener- 
 ally lean and lank, with very small limbs and narrow 
 chests, Their labor is so light, and they keep so 
 closely to their villages or the immediate vicinity, that 
 there is . no opportunity for physical development 
 The men in general go naked, except the breech- 
 cloth. A few, however, are provided with their native 
 blankets of large size, which they fold and throw 
 over their shoulders in the manner of the Mexicans. 
 Some fasten them around their waists in graceful folds, 
 letting the ends fall to their knees ; then drawing a 
 cord between their legs and attaching it to their waists, 
 their garment resembles a capacious pair of pantaloons. 
 I suppose that all are provided with cotton blankets ; 
 but, owing to the almost incessant heat of the day, 
 they seldom wear them. At night, when cool, these 
 constitute their sole covering. The head-band is worn 
 by nearly all the men gracefully put on in several folds, 
 with the braided ends hanging down to their shoul- 
 ders. They also have a large woollen cord, from half 
 an inch to an inch in diameter, of different colors, 
 which they use as a head ornament, twining it around 
 the hair. So many Americans have been among these 
 people, that most of them have obtained ragged or 
 
230 THE COCO-MARICOPA AND 
 
 cast-off shirts, which they put on on great occasions. 
 By their traffic with the Boundary Commission, they 
 obtained a large number of these garments of a good 
 substantial quality both cotton and woollen. The bright 
 scarlet shirts gave them quite a picturesque appear- 
 ance. When they visited our camp, every man put 
 on his best garments, no matter what was their fashion, 
 or how many he had. I remember that on one occa- 
 sion Francisco made his appearance in a pair of panta- 
 loons, with a white shirt, over which was a checked 
 one, and another of red flannel outside of that. For a 
 short time he strutted about the camp, the envy and 
 admiration of his friends. But he soon got tired of 
 sporting such a dress with the heat at 110°; and 
 shortly after we saw him cooling off on the grass, 
 divested of all his finery, which he had carefully tied 
 up in a bundle. 
 
 The men wear their hair long, never cutting it 
 except across the eyebrows, down to which it hangs, 
 and thus partially protects the eyes. When loosed, 
 their hair reaches to their knees; but usually it is 
 clubbed up in a large mass on their backs. Their ear- 
 locks either hang loose, or are braided in several 
 strands, with little ornaments of bone, tin, or red cloth 
 attached to them. But the decoration of their heads 
 with the bands of which I have spoken, forms the most 
 picturesque part of their costume. They have a sin- 
 gular practice of filling their hair with clay ; so that 
 when dry it resembles a great turban. I could not 
 imagine their object in adopting so filthy a custom, 
 unless it was to destroy the vermin. The men also 
 wear a profusion of beads when they can obtain them. 
 
THE PIMO INDIANS. 231 
 
 Some have long strings of sea-shells or parts of shells, 
 which are highly prized. I tried to buy some of them ; 
 but the only man at all disposed to sell asked me five 
 dollars or a pair of blankets for a few strings, a price 
 so extravagant that I declined to make the purchase. 
 
 The women carry their infants in cradles similar to 
 those of other Indians. I have seen them in camp 
 with a basket of green corn on their heads, and on the 
 top of this the cradle and child. When it gets to be 
 about a year old, it is carried astride on the hip, the 
 mother holding one arm around its body. Although 
 the men and boys go naked, I never saw a girl, how- 
 ever young, without clothes around its hips similar to 
 those worn by the women. 
 
 The Indians were much amused by Dr. Webb's col- 
 lection of insects, reptiles, and small mammalia, which 
 were preserved in bottles or hanging about our tent. 
 I told the boys to go out and collect for us any curious 
 insects, lizards, or snakes they could find, and that I 
 would reward them for so doing. Instead of letting 
 the boys go, the men, in the belief that they would be 
 well rewarded, went themselves, and in a few hours 
 came very earnestly to my tent with a few grasshop- 
 pers and crickets. Although utterly valueless, as con- 
 taining nothing new, yet Dr. Webb graciously re- 
 ceived them, as an encouragement to prosecute their 
 zoological researches further, at the same time inform- 
 ing his new recruits that lizards and horned frogs, 
 which abound on the plateau, would be most accept- 
 able. They now set off again, and we hoped some- 
 thing better from this second effort. About an hour 
 after, some half-a-dozen sturdy fellows marched to- 
 
232 THE COCO-MARICOPA AND 
 
 wards my tent in single file, with a great deal of 
 importance. . The leader advanced with a dignified 
 air, and the Doctor got his bottles ready to receive 
 the specimens which the six men had collected. But 
 his expectations, if he indulged any, of adding new 
 species to his collection, soon vanished, when the man 
 laid upon the table two small lizards, minus their tails, 
 which had been broken off in securing them. For their 
 arduous services in the cause of science, the captors 
 of the tailless lizards coolly demanded a shirt apiece. 
 
 Two old chiefs made their appearance to-day, and 
 at once recognised Mr. Leroux as the person who 
 guided Colonel Cooke and his battalion through here 
 in 1847. Mr. Leroux also recognised one whom they 
 called Blanco, as a chief who commanded the Marico- 
 pas twenty-five years ago, when a party of hunters 
 and trappers from New Mexico, among whom was 
 Leroux, had a severe fight with them, and escaped 
 narrowly with their lives. On being reminded of it, 
 the old chief recollected the circumstances, which he 
 related, and which corresponded with the account of 
 Leroux. 
 
 The valley or bottom-land occupied by the Pimos 
 and Coco-Maricopas extends about fifteen miles along 
 the south side of the Gila, and is from two to four 
 miles in width, nearly the whole being occupied by 
 their villages and cultivated fields. The Pimos occupy 
 the eastern portion. There is no dividing line between 
 them, nor any thing to distinguish the villages of one 
 from the other. The whole of this plain is intersected 
 by irrigating canals from the Gila, by which they 
 are enabled to control the waters, and raise the 
 
THE PIMO INDIANS. 233 
 
 most luxuriant crops. At the western end of the 
 valley is a rich tract of grass, where we had our 
 encampment. This is a mile or more from the nearest 
 village of the Coco-Maricopas. On the northern side 
 of the river there is less bottom-land, and the irriga- 
 tion is more difficult. There are a few cultivated 
 spots here ; but it is too much exposed to the attacks 
 of their enemies for either tribe to reside upon it. 
 
 The villages consist of groups of from twenty to 
 fifty habitations, surrounded by gardens and cultivated 
 fields, intersected in every direction by acequias, which 
 lead the water from the Gila. Their mode of irriga- 
 tion is the same as that practised in various parts of 
 Mexico. Their cultivated fields are generally fenced 
 with crooked stakes, wattled with brush, the thorny 
 mezquit predominating ; although I noticed large 
 patches of wheat, a long distance from any village, 
 that were not inclosed. 
 
 Their houses are built with stakes, poles, corn- 
 shucks, and straw. For the small houses, four upright 
 stakes forked at one end are inserted in the ground. 
 For the larger dwellings nine are used ; three on each 
 side, and one in the centre. Across the tops of these, 
 other sticks are laid to support the roof. Next a row 
 of poles is inserted in the ground, a few feet outside 
 the larger upright stakes, bent over towards the centre 
 and fastened to the horizontal beams. These are then 
 united in the centre, forming a slightly rounded top. 
 Smaller poles are now horizontally interlaced with 
 the upright ones, and between them straw, corn-shucks, 
 or rushes are interwoven in large masses, so as to shed 
 the rain and protect them from the intense heat of the 
 
234 
 
 THE- COCO-MARICOPA AND 
 
 sun ; some are then plastered over with mud. An 
 opening for a door is left, about three feet high, to 
 creep in at. These habitations vary in height from 
 five to seven feet ; so that in many of them one cannot 
 stand erect. In fact they are chiefly used to sit and 
 sleep in. In diameter they are from fifteen to twenty- 
 five feet. In the most westerly village of the Coco- 
 Maricopas, from which the annexed sketch was taken, 
 the wigwams are wholly plastered with mud. Their 
 cooking is done out of doors, where the greater por- 
 tion of their time is passed, beneath a kind of shed or 
 bower attached to the wigwams This is open on all 
 sides, and merely protected from the sun overhead. 
 Beneath these bowers the people are generally seen 
 engaged in their household occupations, only resorting 
 to their better protected abodes in cool or rainy 
 weather. The accompanying sketch shows the man- 
 ner of erecting these wigwams. 
 
 Mode of constructing Wigwams. 
 
 Besides the dwelling-places, each family is provided 
 with a store-house or granary. These are built like 
 the Mexican jaJeals, i. e.. with stakes placed close 
 together and about eight or nine feet high. They are 
 better structures than the dwellings, and are probably 
 made more open, in order to give a free circulation of 
 
THE PIMO INDIANS. 
 
 235 
 
 air through the grain deposited in them. They are 
 wattled with straw and rushes, and are sometimes 
 coated with a thick layer of mud. As this becomes 
 dry, additional layers of mud are added, which render 
 
 Coco-Maricopa Village. 
 
 them impervious to water. The wheat and shelled 
 corn (maize) are put into large vases or baskets, from 
 three to five feet high, made out of ropes of wheaten 
 straw. These ropes, which are as thick as one's arm, 
 are coiled around into graceful forms, and sewed 
 together like some kinds of basket work. The vases 
 
236 
 
 THE COCO-MARICOPA AND 
 
 so formed contain ten or twelve, and some even fifteen 
 bushels of grain. The following sketch exhibits a view 
 of the interior of a Pimo granary or store-houser 
 
 Pimo store-house. 
 
 On the tops of their wigwams and granaries may 
 often be seen large piles of mezquit beans in the pod, 
 which are placed, there to dry, preparatory to being 
 ground into flour for pinole. 
 
 Both the tribes of Indians referred to, use a singu- 
 lar piece of frame-work made of three poles connected 
 with a netting, which is carried on their backs. These 
 are used both by women and men for gathering mez- 
 quit beans, corn, and other light articles. They may be 
 seen at every wigwam, and answer the purpose of a 
 wheelbarrow. They are highly prized by their owners, 
 as they are very useful to them, and are made with 
 much labor. For the only specimen I could obtain, I 
 was obliged to give goods to the value of ten dollars. 
 
 These people possess horses and cattle, though but 
 
THE PIMO INDIANS. 237 
 
 very few mules. I found it impossible to procure a 
 single mule from them during my stay. They breed 
 none, and what they obtain are such as have been lost 
 or abandoned by passing emigrants. They plough but 
 little, finding their hoes quite sufficient for turning up 
 the light soil. When ploughing is resorted to, oxen 
 alone are used. They possess a few carts and wagons, 
 obtained from emigrants, which they use with oxen 
 for agricultural purposes. We saw all kinds of sad- 
 dles among them, from the best dragoon and Mexican 
 saddles to the simple tree or frame. They find them 
 on the road, where they have been thrown away by 
 parties who have lost their animals. Those who ride 
 bareback use a broad girth, which is passed quite 
 loosely around the body of the horse. Into this one 
 foot is inserted. There seemed to be numbers of 
 horses among them, which with the cattle are left to 
 graze near the villages during the day, and at night 
 are brought into the corrals, or yards, for safety. 
 
 The only weapon used by these tribes is the bow 
 and arrow. The short club of the Yumas and the 
 long lance of the Apaches I never saw among them. 
 The constant use of this weapon has rendered them 
 excellent marksmen. Even the boys are very ex- 
 pert in the use of it. I have seen boys of ten or 
 twelve years of age, strike a cent three times out of 
 five at a distance of fifteen yards. It is quite common 
 for them to shoot doves with their arrows, and to bring 
 in half a dozen of these birds after a ramble among the 
 cotton-woods. It is a favorite amusement with both 
 men and boys to try their skill at hitting the petahaya, 
 which presents a fine object on the plain. Numbers 
 
238 THE COCO-MARICOPA AND THE PIMO INDIANS. 
 
 often collect for this purpose ; and in crossing the 
 great plateau, where these plants abound, it is common 
 to see them pierced with arrows. 
 
 
 
 Pimo man and woman. 
 
INDIAN AMUSEMENTS. SHOOTING AT THE PETAHAYA. 
 
AT THE COCO-MARICOPA AND PIMO VILLAGES. 239 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI. 
 
 AT THE COCO-MARICOPA AND PIMO VILLAGES. 
 
 Journey to the River Salinas — Its rich hottora-lands — Large stream — Pimo 
 Indians — Ruined buildings — Mounds — Broken pottery — Traces of irri- 
 gating canals — Ancient population probably large — Return towards 
 the Pimo villages — Are taken for Apaches — Arrival at camp — Ar- 
 rival of Lieutenant Whipple — Survey of the Gila completed — Trade 
 reopened with the Coco-Maricopas — Presents — Tribe of Oawenas — 
 Remove to the Pimo villages — Cola Azul and the Pimos — Traffic 
 with them — Conference — Giving presents — Arrival of Mexican traders 
 — Return of Lieutenant Paige with the escort — Leave the villages. 
 
 July 3d. In order to make the most of my time 
 while waiting the arrival of Lieutenant Whipple and 
 party, I determined to take a short trip up the river 
 Salinas, as far as the " Casas Grandes," or ancient 
 remains said to be there. I asked a couple of Mari- 
 copas to go with me as guides, and offered them a red 
 flannel shirt each for their services. They wished two 
 others to accompany them, if I would take them on 
 the same terms. Finding that I consented so readily, 
 they parleyed a while, and then demanded for each a 
 shirt, six yards of cotton, and sundry small articles, 
 without which they declared they would not go. 
 Francisco, the interpreter, was their spokesman, and I 
 have no doubt urged them to make this demand. I 
 
240 AT THE COCO-MARICOPA AND 
 
 refused to accede to it, and told them that Francisco 
 .and one other would answer my purpose, as first pro- 
 posed. 
 
 At six o'clock this morning we set off, the party 
 consisting of Dr. Webb, Messrs. Thurber, Pratt, Seaton, 
 Force, Leroux, and myself, with attendants. Lieute- 
 nant Paige, with six soldiers, also accompanied us, that 
 officer wishing to examine the opposite bank of the 
 Gila, as well as the lands contiguous to the Saliuas, 
 with a view of establishing a military post in the vi- 
 cinity of the Pimo villages. After crossing the bed 
 of the Gila we pursued a westerly course about eight 
 miles to the point of a range of mountains, near which 
 we struck the bottom-lands. We now inclined more 
 to the north, and in about eight miles struck the Sali- 
 nas, about twelve miles from its mouth, where we 
 stopped to let the animals rest and feed. The bottom, 
 which we crossed diagonally, is from three to four 
 miles wide. The river we found to be from eighty to 
 one hundred and twenty feet wide, from two to three 
 feet deep, and both rapid and clear. In these respects 
 it is totally different from the Gila, which, for the two 
 hundred miles we had traversed its banks, was slug- 
 gish and muddy, a character which I think it assumes 
 after passing the mountainous region and entering one 
 with alluvial banks. The water is perfectly sweet, 
 and neither brackish nor salt, as would be inferred 
 from the name. We saw from the banks many fish in 
 its clear waters, and caught several of the same species 
 as those taken in the Gila. The margin of the river 
 on both sides, for a width of three hundred feet, consists 
 of sand and gravel, brought down by freshets when 
 
PIMO VILLAGES. 241 
 
 the stream overflows its banks ; and from the appear- 
 ance of the drift-wood lodged in the trees and bushes, 
 it must at times be much swollen, and run with great 
 rapidity. The second terrace or bottom-land, varies 
 from one to four miles in width, and is exceedingly 
 rich. As it is but little elevated above the river, it 
 could be irrigated with ease. At present it is covered 
 with shrubs and mezquit trees, while along the imme- 
 diate margin of the stream large cotton-wood trees 
 grow. Near by we saw the remains of several Indian 
 wigwams, some of which seemed to have been but 
 recently occupied. Francisco told us they were used 
 by his people and the Pimos when they came here to 
 fish. He also told us that two years before, when the 
 cholera appeared among them, they abandoned their 
 dwellings on the Gila and came here to escape the 
 pestilence. 
 
 Owing to the intense heat, we lay by until five 
 o'clock, and again pursued our journey up the river 
 until dark, when, finding a little patch of poor grass, 
 we thought best to stop for the night. Supper was 
 got, and a good meal made from our fish. As we 
 brought no tents, we prepared our beds on the sand. 
 We had not long been in when we saw a body of 
 twelve or fifteen Indians on the river making for our 
 camp. At first some alarm was felt, until Francisco 
 told us that they were Pimos. They proved to be a 
 party which had been engaged in hunting and fishing. 
 They were a jolly set of young men, dancing and sing- 
 ing while they remained with us. I told them we 
 would like a few fish for breakfast, if they would bring 
 them in. With this encouragement, they took leave 
 
 VOL. II. — 16 
 
242 AT THE COCO-MARICOPA AND 
 
 of us, promising to fetch us some in the morning. 
 But instead of waiting till the morning, they returned 
 to the camp about midnight, aroused the whole party 
 with their noise, and wished to strike a bargain at 
 once for their fish, a pile of which, certainly enough 
 to last a week, they had brought us. There was no 
 getting rid of them without making a purchase, which 
 I accordingly did, when they left, and permitted us to 
 get a few hours' more sleep. 
 
 July 4dh, 1852. Left camp at half-past four, a. m., 
 determined not to wait for breakfast, but make the 
 most of our time while it was cool ; for it would be 
 impossible to travel, or rather be attended with great 
 inconvenience, during the heat of the day. We con- 
 tinued our course due east up the river, towards some 
 singular piles of rocks with fantastic tops, appearing 
 like works of .art. For some time we all imagined 
 these rocks to be the ruined buildings of which we were 
 in search — the "houses of Montezuma," as our Indian 
 friends called them. We passed over the edge of a 
 mountain, at the base of which the river ran, and 
 then came to a wide and open plain, stretching some 
 twenty-five or thirty miles eastwardly and southwardly. 
 Entering this, we attempted to cross the bottom, 
 which was so thickly overgrown with weeds and 
 bushes that we could not penetrate it We tried in 
 vain to get through, but finding ourselves scattered, 
 and fearing we should lose sight of each other, we 
 retraced our steps along the margin of the hill, until 
 we passed the jungle. The bottom now became more 
 open, and five or six miles further brought us to the 
 plateau. On our way we saw many traces of ancient 
 
PIMO VILLAGES. 243 
 
 irrigating canals, which were the first evidences that 
 the country had been settled and cultivated. But on 
 reaching the plateau we found remains of buildings, 
 all, however, in shapeless heaps. Not an erect wall 
 could be seen. A little mound, conical or oblong, 
 designated the character of the building. In many 
 places I traced long lines of fallen walls, and in others 
 depressions, from which the soil had been removed 
 to make the adobe. On the plain, in every direction, 
 we found an immense quantity of broken pottery, 
 metate stones for grinding corn, and an occasional 
 stone axe or hoe. The ground was strewn with 
 broken pottery for miles. It was generally painted 
 in a variety of geometric figures. The predominant 
 colors were red, black, and white. The quality of the 
 ware was very fine, more so than that made by the 
 Pimos. I noticed too that much of it was painted on 
 the inside, while at the present time all the pottery of 
 the Indians and Mexicans is painted on the outside. 
 
 As it was now growing very warm, we left the 
 plateau and struck off for the Salinas, encamping 
 beneath some tall cotton-woods, where we prepared 
 and partook of a late breakfast. 
 
 Mr. Leroux, who had before come down the Sali- 
 nas, pointed out to me a mountain some six or eight 
 miles off, at the base of which the river San Francisco 
 or Verde enters from the north. Since we struck the 
 Salinas, its course had been mostly east and west ; and 
 as far as it could be traced by the cotton-woods and 
 verdure which mark its course, its direction indi- 
 cated the same. We supposed ourselves now to be 
 from thirty-five to forty miles from its mouth. Look- 
 
244 AT THE COCO-MARICOPA AND 
 
 ing east from where we were, the whole prospect was 
 shut in by mountains rising one above the other. I 
 was informed by Leroux, that such was the character 
 of the country all the way to New Mexico ; and that 
 there were no more broad desert plains or luxuriant 
 valleys like those of the Salinas and Gila rivers for the 
 entire distance. He came here from Albuquerque, on 
 the Rio Grande, by the valley of the Rio Verde, in 
 fourteen days. 
 
 We found the river clear and rapid, as at the first 
 camp, with many trout, whose silvery sides glittered 
 in the translucent stream. The quantity of water 
 passing down the Salinas is more than double that of 
 the Gila, which only becomes a respectable river after 
 it receives the waters of the former. Yet there are 
 seasons when the whole is evaporated, or absorbed by 
 the sandy bed through which it passes, before reach- 
 ing the Colorado. When at Hermosillo, in Sonora, I 
 met an American who had passed over the same route, 
 and he found the bed dry in many places. 
 
 At five in the afternoon, the heat being less, I 
 crept from beneath my shelter of willows, where I had 
 spent several hours, and, accompanied by Dr. Webb, 
 mounted my mule, and left for the plateau in advance 
 of the party. A ride of a mile brought us to the table- 
 land, when we made for a large mound or heap which 
 arose from the plain. In crossing the bottom we 
 passed many irrigating canals ; and along the base of 
 the plateau was one from twenty to twenty-five feet 
 wide, and from four to five feet deep, formed by cut- 
 ting down the bank — a very easy mode of construc- 
 tion, and which produced a canal much more substan- 
 
PIMO VILLAGES. 245 
 
 tial than if carried across the bottom. It must have 
 extended many miles. The whole of this broad valley 
 appeared to have been cultivated, though now over- 
 grown with mezquit shrubbery. 
 
 On reaching the great pile, I found it to be the 
 remains of an adobe edifice from two hundred to two 
 hundred and twenty-five feet in length, by from sixty 
 to eighty feet wide, its sides facing the cardinal points. 
 Portions of the wall were visible only in two places, 
 one near the summit, at the south end, where, from 
 the height of the pile, it must have originally been 
 three or four stories high ; and the other at the north- 
 ern extremity, on the western side. These remains 
 just projected above the mass of rubbish and crum- 
 bled walls. The rest formed rounded heaps of various 
 heights and dimensions, worn into deep gullies by the 
 rain ; the whole presenting a striking resemblance to 
 the mounds which mark the site of ancient Babylon. 
 
 The higher walls seen in the sketch, probably 
 belonged to an inner portion of the building. Near 
 this is a conical hill, formed, doubtless, by the crum- 
 bling away of the higher portion or tower. Near the 
 wall, which projects from the lower portion, at the 
 northern end, are some large masses of this wall 
 which have fallen. The adobe is still very hard, so 
 much so that I could not break it with the heel of my 
 boot. Several broken metates, or corn-grinders, lie 
 about the pile. I picked up a stone pestle and some 
 small sea shells. Along the eastern side are the 
 remains of a long wall, extending beyond the build- 
 ing, now but a rounded heap, which seemed to have 
 formed an inclosure. On the western side is an exca- 
 
246 
 
 AT THE C0C0-MAR1C0PA AND 
 
 vation about four feet deep, and extending from sixty 
 to eighty feet from the main heap, and along its entire 
 length ; from which I suppose the mud and gravel to 
 have been taken to make the adobe. To the north- 
 east, at a distance of two or three hundred feet, are 
 the ruins of a circular inclosure. This was not large 
 enough for a corral ; nor could it have been a well, as 
 
 Ruins on tlie SaKnas. 
 
 it is too near the margin of the plateau where the 
 canal ran, which would always furnish a supply of 
 water. At the south, two hundred yards distant, are 
 the remains of a small building with a portion of the 
 wall still standing. 
 
 From the summit of the principal heap, which is 
 elevated from twenty to twenty-five feet above the 
 
PIMO VILLAGES. 247 
 
 plain, there maybe seen in all directions similar heaps ; 
 and about a mile to the east, I noticed a long range of 
 them running north and south, which the Indians said 
 were of a similar character to that on which we stood. 
 In every direction, the plain was strewn with broken 
 pottery, of which I gathered up some specimens to 
 show the quality, as well as the style, of ornamenta- 
 tion. I also found several of the green stones resem- 
 bling amethysts which the Indians, after heavy rains, 
 come here in search of. They are highly prized by 
 them. All the early travellers in this country, from 
 Coronado, who crossed the Gila in 1540, to the present 
 time, have spoken of these so called amethysts. I 
 would have liked to make a further examination of 
 this plain ; but our animals had no grass or other feed, 
 nor should we find any until we could reach the Gila, 
 twenty-five miles distant, which prevented me from 
 extending my examinations. 
 
 Mr. Leroux informed me that on the banks of the 
 San Francisco, are similar heaps to these, and other 
 ruins, the walls still standing. He thinks that the 
 buildings he has seen on that river, and others in the 
 Moqui and Navajo country, of three and four stories 
 in height, would, if in a ruined state, make similar 
 heaps to those under our notice. I am inclined to the 
 same opinion, and believe that the ruins we visited, 
 belonged to a building of several stories. 
 
 There is no doubt that this valley, as well as that 
 of the Verde and Gila Rivers, were once filled with a 
 dense population, far enough advanced in civilization 
 to build houses of several stories in height, surrounded 
 with regular outworks, and to irrigate their lands by 
 
248 AT THE COCO-MARICOPA AND 
 
 canals extending miles in length ; but they seem to 
 have left no trace or tradition by which we can tell 
 who they were, or what was their fate. I made fre- 
 quent inquiries of the Pimos and Coco-Maricopas as to 
 the builders of these and the ruins on the Gila, but 
 could obtain no other than the ever-ready, Quien 
 sabe ? These, as well as the ruins above the Pimo 
 villages are known among the Indians as the " houses of 
 Montezuma," an idea doubtless derived from the Mexi- 
 cans, rather than from any tradition of their own. We 
 asked our Indian guide, who Montezuma was. He 
 answered, "Nobody knows who the devil he was; all 
 we know is, that he built these houses." 
 
 After spending an hour here, we took a strongly 
 marked trail, which looked as though it had been 
 travelled for a century, and which led due south 
 towards the Pimo villages. There were other trails, 
 leading in various directions ; showing that the plain 
 is much traversed, and the ruins often visited. We 
 journeyed rapidly over the plain, which was a portion 
 of the great plateau or desert. It was a perfect level 
 without an undulation. Not a hill or a ravine inter- 
 cepted our path. The vegetation was the same as 
 found on the plateau in our journey up the south side 
 of the Gila. Larrea and small mezquit bushes predom- 
 inated ; while now and then the graceful petahaya 
 raised its tall head far above the dwarfish plants of the 
 desert, often startling us with its sudden appearance. 
 It was near midnight when we entered a thick grove 
 of mezquit, from whose branches were pendent large 
 quantities of the beans of which the mules are so fond. 
 As we had now travelled from twenty-three to twenty- 
 
PIMO VILLAGES. 249 
 
 five miles from the Salinas, and did not know the dis- 
 tance to the river, we concluded to stop here. We 
 accordingly hitched our mules by their long lariats to 
 these bushes, on which they could feed, and stretched 
 ourselves beneath their wide-spreading branches, to 
 get a little rest until daylight should again appear. 
 
 July 5th. At half-past four, without waiting for 
 breakfast (for the reason that we had none to cook), we 
 resumed our journey, and in two miles reached the 
 Gila, or rather its bed ; for it was dry here. As 
 we entered the first fields of the Pimos, the sen- 
 tinels in the outskirts, seeing us approach in long 
 single file, mistook us for Apaches and gave the 
 alarm accordingly ; a very natural mistake, as no 
 party of emigrants or travellers had ever entered 
 their country from the north. We heard the alarm 
 given, and echoed in all voices, from one tree or 
 house-top to the other, until it reached their villages. 
 " Apaches ! Apaches ! " was the cry from every mouth ; 
 and when it reached the first village, it was borne 
 onward to every part of the community, even to their 
 allies the Maricopas. The two Indian guides who 
 were with us, discovered the stampede we had so unin- 
 tentionally caused among their Pimo brethren, and 
 seemed to enjoy the joke much. In a few minutes we 
 saw the Pimos mounted, bounding towards us in every 
 direction, armed and ready for the contest ; others, on 
 foot with their bows and arrows, came streaming after 
 them ; and in a short time, the foremost horseman, 
 who was doubtless striving to take the first Apache 
 scalp and bear it as a trophy to his people, reigned his 
 steed before us. As he and those about him, perceived 
 
250 AT THE COCO-MARICOPA AND 
 
 their mistake, they all burst into a hearty laugh, which 
 was joined in by the rest as they came up. Assem- 
 bling around our two Maricopas, they learnt the par- 
 ticulars of our visit to the Salinas. They then all 
 wheeled around ; and while a portion acted as our 
 escort to their villages, others fell behind and brought 
 up the rear, so that our entry was that of a grand 
 cavalcade. At 8 o'clock, we reached our place of 
 encampment, having travelled fourteen miles. 
 
 In the afternoon, Lieutenant Whipple and his party 
 arrived. They had completed the survey of the Gila, 
 a labor at this season of the year, with the heat at from 
 100 to 120 degrees Fahrenheit, attended with no small 
 difficulty. 
 
 June Qth. As the notes of this survey, and the 
 accompanying -astronomical observations, had been 
 obtained with great labor and some suffering. I felt 
 unwilling to expose them to the risk of being lost in 
 a journey across the continent ; and, accordingly, 
 determined to remain here a few days longer, to give 
 Lieutenant Whipple an opportunity to duplicate them 
 with the view of sending them back by a messenger 
 to Major Heintzelman, at Port Yuma, to be forwarded 
 by him to the Secretary of the Interior at Washing- 
 ton. 
 
 A brisk trade was carried on to-day with the Coco- 
 Maricopas for corn, beans, meal, pinole, and squashes, as 
 well as for the various articles of their manufacture, 
 such as pottery, cotton blankets, baskets, &c. I gave 
 the trading department into Mr. Thurber's hands, find- 
 ing it would be better managed by one person. He 
 fitted up his tent for the purpose and made such a dis- 
 
PIMO VILLAGES. 251 
 
 play of goods as was never beheld before in this commu- 
 nity. I also told Francisco, the chief before mentioned, 
 to invite all the chiefs or captains as he called them, 
 of his tribe to come in, and I would make each of 
 them a present of such articles as I had to give. Five, 
 accordingly, presented themselves, and to each of 
 them I gave shirts, a few yards of cotton cloth, some 
 vermillion, beads, trinkets, etc. ; with all which they 
 seemed greatly pleased. I told them that these things 
 were in return for the friendship shown, and the assis- 
 tance they had given to the poor American emigrants 
 who had passed through their country, and that they 
 must continue to aid them when in their power to do 
 so. I added that they would then be considered as 
 the true friends of the Americans, and would be 
 rewarded accordingly ; furthermore, that the Ameri- 
 cans might be induced to establish a garrison near 
 them, which would protect them and prevent all future 
 attacks from the Apaches. 
 
 It was on this occasion, that I gave Francisco so 
 many things, for which he seemed so ungrateful. I 
 found too, that he had told his people to advance the 
 price of their corn, and other things ; which made this 
 day's bartering the end of our trade. I felt quite indif- 
 ferent on the subject, as it was my intention to remove 
 the camp to the villages of the Pimos ; for Mr. Leroux 
 had ascertained that they were much better supplied 
 with corn and every other commodity than the Cooo- 
 Maricopas, and were very desirous that we should 
 divide our time with them for the purpose of trading. 
 
 A few Indians of a nearly extinct tribe called the 
 Cqivinas, were in camp to-day. Only ten of this tribe 
 
252 AT THE COCO-MARICOPA AND 
 
 remain, who are living among the Pimos. and Coco- 
 Maricopas. Their former dwelling-place was on the 
 Gila towards the Colorado. There they were brought 
 in contact with the Yumas ; and in the constant wars 
 that existed between them and the Cawinas, they were 
 all exterminated, except the small number which had 
 taken refuge here. They speak a language different 
 from the Pimos and Maricopas, and I could find but 
 one man among the latter who understood it. He 
 promised to come and give me the vocabulary, but 
 did not again make his appearance. 
 
 July 8th. After breakfast this morning, we struck 
 our tents, and bade farewell to our Maricopa friends, 
 among whom we had been ten days, with many regrets. 
 From the first day of our arrival, they had thronged our 
 camp both day and night; and I am not aware that 
 they ever took an article that did not belong to them, 
 nor had there been any difficulty between us, except 
 their trying to overreach us in trade. But this did 
 not interrupt our friendship, or prevent me from treat- 
 ing them all with kindness. In their intercourse with 
 the whites, they are a docile and inoffensive people; 
 but they exhibit the same cruelty as other Indians, 
 towards those of their red brethren with whom they 
 are at war. They still have occasional fights with the 
 Yumas and the Apaches ; and should any prisoner fall 
 into their hands, they would delight, as much as the 
 Apaches do, in putting him to the torture. 
 
 Last winter, while Dr. Webb and his party were 
 here, they saw an example of this. It appears that 
 when Captain Ximenes, with the Mexican Commission, 
 was at the Colorado, they induced an intelligent Yuma 
 
PIMO VILLAGES. 
 
 253 
 
 to return with them. On passing through the villages 
 of the Coco-Maricopas, notwithstanding every effort 
 of the Captain to conceal this man, they discovered 
 him, and by stratagem, got possession of him. The 
 party endeavored to effect his release ; but they had 
 not force enough to compel his captors to surrender 
 him, and no presents would induce them to do so. He 
 was put to the torture ; and Dr. Webb and the other 
 gentlemen of the U. S. Commission, were invited to 
 join the Maricopas, in the festivities and dances on the 
 occasion. 
 
 Group of Pimo Indians. 
 
 As we rode through the villages, we saw the peo- 
 
254 AT THE COCO-MARICOPA AND 
 
 pie engaged in their various occupations. The women 
 were generally at work grinding their corn or wheat. 
 The children were squatting or lying in the shade, 
 doing nothing. The cradle was suspended by a cord 
 to the roof and kept swinging by the husband, who lay 
 stretched at length on his back, or by the children. 
 In these communities, there are men who labor in the 
 fields, while others lounge about the villages doing 
 nothing. They seem to have their dandies and gen- 
 tlemen of leisure, as well as their more civilized bre- 
 thren. The women, too, were carrying water on their 
 heads, or transporting other things in the sprawling 
 frames upon their backs. 
 
 At noon, having journeyed about twelve miles 
 through these villages and cultivated fields, we reached 
 a spot near an acequia, where there was grass, and a 
 pleasant grove of mezquit trees. Here we pitched 
 our tents, intending to remain a few days. 
 
 We had scarcely got our camp in order, when we 
 were surrounded by the Pimos. I sent a messenger to 
 inform their head chief Cola Azul (blue tail) who was 
 at work in the fields, that I would be glad to see him. 
 In a short time he appeared, accompanied by his inter- 
 preter Tu-maams. Although it was a dreadfully hot 
 day, when we felt like divesting ourselves of as much 
 clothing as possible, Cola Azul appeared in a large blue 
 blanket overcoat, pantaloons, and a green felt hat, 
 while his attendants were either naked, or wore around 
 their loins the white cotton blanket of their own manu- 
 facture. He at once presented me a number of ere- I 
 dentials from various American officers, and others, 
 who had passed here, and held intercourse with him 
 
FRAGMENTS OF ANCIENT POTTERY FROM THK GILA AND SALINAS. p. 255. 
 
 I 
 
PIMO VILLAGES. 255 
 
 and his tribe — setting forth that he was the head chief, 
 that his people were friendly to the Americans, and 
 requesting all should respect them and treat them 
 kindly. The earliest of these, was from Colonel St. 
 George Cooke. This.chief was about 50 years of age, 
 with a fine, amia.ble expression of countenance, and a 
 quiet and dignified manner. He was greatly beloved 
 by his people, who showed him more deference than 
 I had ever seen extended by Indians to their supe- 
 riors. 
 
 I told this chief who we were, and the object of 
 our visit. He readily comprehended my meaning, and 
 referred to the surveying parties under Mr. Gray and 
 Lieutenant Whipple, which had been operating here 
 during the winter. I told him that, having completed 
 the work, we were now on our return to the United 
 States ; and that having heard of his kind treatment 
 of the Americans who had passed through the villages 
 of his people on their way to California, I wished to 
 see all the chiefs of his tribe and present to them a few 
 articles, as a token of the respect which the American 
 government entertained for them. I added, that I 
 would be ready to receive them the following morning. 
 
 July 9th. The day had scarcely dawned when I was 
 awoke by a chattering of strange voices around my 
 tent ; on putting out my head, I found to my surprise, 
 that, although it was but 4 o'clock, the Pimo chiefs 
 were already on the spot. This was a little too early 
 for business, and besides, I was not prepared for the 
 proposed conference. It would have been impolite 
 to send them back ; so I requested them to wait until I 
 had taken mv breakfast, which would be in about three 
 
256 AT THE COCOMARICOPA AND 
 
 hours. They seemed well content with the delay, and 
 the opportunity it gave them to stroll around the camp, 
 and inspect the several culinary processes, from that of 
 the Mexican arrieros with their queer dishes, to the 
 cuisine of the officers, where, if there was no great 
 variety of food, there was to them a curious display 
 of iron, tin, and copper cooking utensils, with some 
 articles for the table that attracted their attention. 
 
 At eight o'clock, I was ready to receive the depu- 
 tation of the Pimo chiefs. The largest tent in the com- 
 mission had been pitched for the purpose. The ends 
 and sides were opened and rolled up, and trunks placed 
 for the chiefs to sit upon. There were altogether 
 six chiefs, including Cola Azal, besides two interpre- 
 ters. The latter were absolutely necessary, as there 
 were no Pimos who spoke Spanish. Tumaams, the elder 
 of the interpreters, was born of Pimo and Maricopa 
 parents, and spoke both languages. He therefore 
 repeated what the Pimo chiefs said, to a Maricopa, 
 named Mis-ke-tai-ish, who spoke Spanish ; and I com- 
 municated with him. This was a roundabout way of 
 talking ; but there was no alternative. At the oppo- 
 site end of the tent were the officers of the Commission. 
 On the outside were congregated crowds of Indians, 
 both Pimos and Coco-Maricopas ; for the latter had 
 followed us, and were nearly as numerous as when we 
 were among them. It was quite an animated scene ; 
 the women, with their children, equalled the men in 
 number, having come to do a little shopping after the 
 business with the chiefs had been dispatched. 
 
 I stated to them as briefly as possible, that the 
 Americans had heard from General Kearney, Colonel 
 
PIMO VILLAGES. 257 
 
 Cooke, and others, who had passed through their coun- 
 try on their way to California, of the friendly disposi- 
 tion the Pimos had manifested towards them. That 
 the surveying parties belonging to the Boundary Com- 
 mission, had also spoken favorably of them. That I 
 was not an Indian Agent, such as the United States 
 often sent to make treaties with the tribes, and to dis- 
 tribute presents ; but was in command of a party from 
 the American government to trace the Boundary line 
 which separated the United States from Mexico. That 
 having been to California, and completed this duty, I 
 was then on my return to the United States, and should 
 remain a few days with them, to give my animals rest, 
 as well as to procure corn for them, and vegetables for 
 my party. That I also wished to purchase of them, 
 specimens of the various articles which they made, 
 such as their blankets, baskets, pottery, bows and 
 arrows, &c, to show to the American people, that 
 they might see what they could do ; and that, for these 
 I would give them in exchange, blankets, cotton shirts, 
 and other articles. Furthermore, I told them, as an 
 evidence of my good feelings towards them, and in 
 consideration of the kind treatment they had extended 
 to the Americans, I would present to each of them 
 and to the interpreters, some shirts and cotton cloth. 
 To these I added, for Cola Azul, blankets, calico, beads, 
 and trinkets for his wife and children. Before separat- 
 ing, I requested them to exert themselves in endeav- 
 oring to obtain the liberation of the two American 
 girls (Mr. Oatman's daughters) who had been carried 
 into captivity by the Apaches, or other Indians, not 
 known to me. 
 
 VOL. II. 17 
 
258 AT THE COCO-MARICOPA AND 
 
 They were much pleased with these trifling pre- 
 sents, reiterated their expressions of friendly feelings 
 towards the Americans, and said they would dq all in 
 their power to recover the two girls. They believed 
 the Tonto Apaches to have been the murderers of 
 their parents. I told them of the intention of the 
 government to establish a military post near them on 
 the Gila, which would protect them from further attacks 
 of the Apaches. This pleased them much. 
 
 After the conference was ended, trading com- 
 menced with much briskness. The same articles were 
 bought of them as from the Maricopas, and we were 
 enabled, without difficulty, to obtain all the corn that 
 was necessary for the mules of the whole train. One 
 of their baskets we agreed upon with them for a 
 measure, a certain number of which was the value of 
 a yard of white cotton or a particular kind of shirt. 
 This was quite satisfactory to them ; and a much larger 
 quantity of corn was brought in than we were able to 
 take. When we had nearly completed our purchases, 
 Francisco, the Maricopa chief and interpreter, came in 
 and again interfered ; but the Pimos did not regard 
 hirn, and manifested much pleasure when I ordered 
 him out of the camp. They did not like his officious- 
 ness, and said he always thrust himself forward when- 
 ever a party of Americans or Mexicans came along, 
 and managed to get whatever they had to give away 
 or barter, much to their disadvantage. 
 
 July 10th. Three Mexican traders arrived this 
 morning from Tucson, opened their goods at one of 
 the villages, and for a while drew most of the Indians 
 from us. Towards evening they returned, and for the 
 
PIMO VILLAGES. ' 259 
 
 few things we wanted, they now asked more than 
 double their former prices. Green corn, which we had 
 bought for one dollar a hundred, in the ear, they now 
 asked four dollars for, and other things in proportion. 
 We had, however, procured every thing we required, 
 except mules, which we were much in want of. These 
 they had promised to bring us, but had failed to do 
 so. 
 
 Lieutenant Whipple joined us to-day, having com- 
 pleted his notes and plottings, and we are again en- 
 camped together. 
 
 July 12th. As the escort under Lieutenant Paige 
 furnished me by Major Heintzelman at Fort Yuma, 
 had accompanied us as far as was deemed necessary, 
 that officer made arrangements to set out on his return 
 to the Colorado this morning, with his command. I 
 availed myself of the opportunity to communicate with 
 the government, and advise it of the successful com- 
 pletion of the Survey of the river Gila. 
 
 We were now to leave the Gila and strike across a 
 desert of ninety miles, where there is said to be neither 
 grass nor water, before we should reach Tucson, the 
 extreme outpost of the Mexicans. I deemed it advi- 
 sable, therefore, to move our camp to the farthest point 
 on the Gila, before attempting to cross this Jornada. 
 The Mexican traders who arrived yesterday said they 
 had found no water the entire distance ; and unless 
 it should rain, of which there was some prospect, 
 (although we had seen none for two months) our ani- 
 mals would undergo great hardships in crossing it. 
 We accordingly set out after breakfast this morning, 
 passing through the last of the Pimo villages and their 
 
260 AT THE COCO-MARICOPA AND PIMO VILLAGES. 
 
 cultivated fields; and, after following the road for 
 twelve miles, turned short off to the north, and en- 
 camped for the last time on the banks of the Gila. The 
 river was here much contracted, with steep banks fif- 
 teen feet high, and completely overhung with willows 
 and cotton-woods, the latter from the opposite banks, 
 meeting at the top. Its width was less than fifty feet, 
 and its greatest depth did not exceed nine inches. It 
 moved sluggishly along, was well charged with mud, 
 and uncomfortably warm to bathe in. The bottom 
 lands were three quarters of a mile in width on the 
 south side, where we encamped, with a rich soil, and 
 filled with mezquit trees. 
 
 But few Indians came in to-day, as we were between 
 six and eight miles above their most easterly village. 
 Those who ventured to follow us, said that it was un- 
 safe to go so far from home unless in large numbers, 
 as bands of the Apaches were constantly hanging about 
 near their villages, watching every opportunity to send 
 an arrow through them, or rob them of their animals. 
 It was so exceedingly hot to-day, that after reaching 
 camp, we lay under the deep shade of the willows, on 
 the river's bank, without pitching our tents. 
 
INDIANS OF THE GILA, AND THE CAS AS GRANDES. 261 
 
 CHAPTER XXXII. 
 
 INDIANS OF THE GILA, AND THE CASAS GRANDES. 
 
 History of the Goco-Maricopas and Pimos — Origin of their semi-civiliza- 
 tion — Difference of languages — Their number — Physical peculiarities — 
 Deserving the attention of Christians and philanthropists — Early ac- 
 counts of these Indians — First described by Father Kino in 1697 — 
 Sedelmayer's visit to them in 1744 — Father Font's in 1775 — Visit to 
 the Casas Grandes of the Gila — Description of these ruins — Evidences 
 of a former large population — Irrigating canals — Broken pottery — 
 Father Font's description of their buildings — Singular error in relation 
 to their dimensions — Kino and Mangi's visit to them in 1694 — Notion 
 of the Aztec origin of these buildings not well founded — Excessive heat. 
 
 Having now left these peaceable semi-civilized Indians, 
 a few general remarks respecting them seem to be 
 required. 
 
 Some writers have endeavored to point out physi- 
 cal differences 'between the Pimos and their allies the 
 Coco-Maricopas ; but I must confess, that after being 
 constantly with them for thirteen days, I was unable 
 to distinguish one from the other, except by some slight 
 difference in the method of wearing their hair. Their 
 modes of life, as before remarked, are the same, with 
 the exception of their funeral rites. In the valley, or 
 rather bottom-land, which they occupy, there is no 
 
262 INDIANS OF THE GILA, 
 
 dividing line between them ; nor is there any distin- 
 guishing character in their villages. I consider that 
 the arts of spinning and weaving, and of making pottery, 
 now practised by both tribes, and in which they are 
 equally expert, originated with the Pimos, who inher- 
 ited this knowledge from their ancestors ; and that from 
 the earliest period, doubtless for centuries, they have 
 occupied portions of the same valley where we now 
 find them. In leaving their villages, I noticed on the 
 edge of the plateau traces of former habitations, which 
 had been abandoned for a great length of time. 
 
 The Coco-Maricopas took up their abode in the 
 valley immediately adjoining the Pimos about thirty 
 years since, from a point lower down the Gila, where 
 they were exposed to the constant attacks of the Yumas 
 and Apaches, which tribes, in consequence of their 
 greater numbers, had nearly annihilated them. They 
 came hither for protection, and formed an alliance, 
 offensive and defensive, with the Pimos. They found 
 the latter possessing the arts of weaving, of building 
 more comfortable dwellings, of making better pottery, 
 enjoying a more peaceful mode of life, than that to 
 which they had been accustomed. These arts and 
 habits the Maricopas gradually adopted. Their lan- 
 guages are totally different, so much so that I was 
 enabled to distinguish them when spoken. The 
 former is soft and melodious, the latter harsh and 
 guttural. The Pimos bury their dead, while the Coco- 
 Maricopas burn theirs. These peculiarities stamp them 
 as distinct nations. 
 
 I have not cited the agriculture of these tribes as 
 superior to that of all other Indians ; although I may 
 
AND THE CASAS GRANDES. 263 
 
 be safe in saying, that the system is more extensively 
 and methodically practised than elsewhere. The Yu- 
 mas, and other tribes on the Colorado irrigate their 
 lands, and raise wheat, corn, melons, etc. The Moquis 
 and the Navajos, far to the north, do the same ; and 
 the warlike Apaches, who are more nomadic in their 
 habits than any tribe west of the Rocky Mountains, 
 raise corn when driven to extremities. But the Pimos 
 and Coco-Maricopas have made agriculture more of a 
 system. Their lands are better irrigated, their crops 
 are larger, and the flour which they make from their 
 wheat and maize is quite as good as the Mexicans 
 make, except in their grist-mills. 
 
 I am inclined to think that Major Emory in his 
 Report has greatly over-estimated the number of these 
 people. He states, that "the population of the Pimos 
 and Coco-Maricopas together is estimated variously at. 
 from three to ten thousand, and that " the first is evi- 
 dently too low."'" From information obtained from the 
 chiefs, and the Mexican officers in Sonora, I should 
 not place them above two thousand. Captain John- 
 ston, f another officer attached to the army under 
 General Kearney's command, in estimating them as 
 embracing " over two thousand souls," came very near 
 the mark. Of the number stated by me, I was told 
 that two thirds were Pimos. 
 
 Their complexion is a dark brown, differing from 
 that of the red-skins east of the Rocky Mountains, and 
 from the olive cast of the California tribes. The 
 women have good figures, with full chests and finely 
 
 * Emory's Report, p. 86. f Johnston's Report, p. 599. 
 
264 INDIANS OF THE GILA, 
 
 formed limbs, owing, in a measure, to the burdens 
 they carry on their heads. The men have small and 
 slender limbs, and, in their physical development, are 
 quite inferior to the tribes between the Mississippi 
 and the Rocky Mountains. This is readily accounted 
 for by their different modes of life. The Pimos exhi- 
 bit a great simplicity of character, more so, I think, 
 than the Maricopas, preferring to lead the quiet lives 
 of agriculturists to the roving and predatory habits of 
 the Apaches, Comanches, Navajos, and others. But 
 although they do not like wars, they are by no means 
 cowards, and do not hesitate to march against their 
 enemies, the Apaches, when it becomes necessary. 
 There are no tribes of Indians on the continent of 
 North America more deserving of the attention of 
 philanthropists than those of which I am speaking. 
 None have ever been found further advanced in the arts 
 and habits of civilized life. None exhibit a more 
 peaceful disposition, or greater simplicity of character ; 
 and certainly none excel them in virtue and honesty. 
 They are quite as industrious as their necessities 
 require them to be. Possessing no market for the 
 sale of their produce, they raise but little more than is 
 necessary to supply their own wants. To do this, with 
 a soil of great fertility, and water at their command, 
 requires but little labor. Hence, after their crops are 
 in, they have nothing to do until the season arrives to 
 gather them. Their granaries are then filled with 
 wheat, corn, beans, pumpkins, squashes, mezquit beans 
 (their substitute for sugar), and the fruit of the peta- 
 haya ; and after that, they undergo another long season 
 of inactivity. Our Missionary Societies and Boards of 
 
AND THE CASAS GRANDES. 265 
 
 Education could not devote a portion of their means 
 to a more worthy object, than to send teachers and 
 mechanics among this interesting people before they 
 become contaminated by intercourse with the whites, 
 and the seeds of evil are sown, which, when ripened, 
 will exert the same baneful influence upon them as 
 they have upon all other aboriginal tribes, leading to 
 their degradation and final extinction. They will be 
 found willing pupils, having expressed a great desire 
 to be taught to read, and to obtain a knowledge of 
 the mechanic arts. 
 
 Among the Indians visited by Coronado and Marco 
 de Niza, about the middle of the sixteenth century, in 
 their extensive journeys through the regions between 
 the Rio Grande and the Pacific, although it is certain 
 that the former crossed the Gila, I am unable to dis- 
 cover any allusion to the Pimos, or to the district 
 occupied by them. In the diary of an expedition 
 made by the ensign Juan Mateo Mangi, who accompa- 
 nied Father Kino, in the year 1697, after visiting the 
 Casa Grande (of which I shall hereafter speak), he 
 says : "On the margin of the river, distant one league 
 from the Casa Grande, we found a town in which we 
 counted one hundred and thirty souls."* The author 
 continues : " Having traversed four leagues, we arrived 
 at the town of Tusonimon, which is so named from a 
 great heap of horns, from the wild or sylvan sheep, 
 which appears like a hill ; and from the number that 
 
 * I am indebted for this extract to Mr. Schoolcraft's valuable work 
 on the Indian Tribes, vol. hi., p. 301. It is from a manuscript in the 
 archives of the City of Mexico, from which it was copied by Bucking- 
 ham Smith, Esq., Secretary of the United States Legation. 
 
266 INDIANS OF THE GILA, 
 
 there are of the animals, they make the common sub- 
 sistence of the inhabitants. From what can be seen 
 of the highest of these houses, there appears to be a 
 country of more than a hundred thousand hastas in 
 extent.* 
 
 " The heathen Indians received us with jubilee, 
 giving of their provisions to the soldiers ; and we 
 counted two hundred persons, who were gentle and. 
 affable. Remaining there to sleep, the Father and I 
 instructed them, through the interpreters, in the mys- 
 teries of our Holy Faith ; on which they besought us 
 that there might be baptized fifteen of their children 
 and seven sick adults." 
 
 Four leagues from the Casa Grande would bring us 
 about to the spot where we were then encamped, and 
 near to the villages of the Pimos, which, in former 
 times, extended much further up the Gila than they 
 do at present. The great country which the writer 
 saw here was doubtless the plain where the villages 
 now stand, and the great plain to the north, extending 
 twenty -five or thirty miles to the Salinas. 
 
 But Alegro,f in recounting the arduous labors of 
 Father Kino, relates other particulars of the Pimos and 
 Coco-Maricopas, and the interviews between them and 
 this zealous missionary. Kino found, in 1698, the 
 most friendly relations existing between them, and 
 noticed the difference in their languages and dress. 
 But their manners and customs were the same; and 
 
 * Measure of a lance, about three yards in length, 
 f Hist, de la Compania de Jesus en Nueva Espana, tom. iii., pp. 83 
 and 103. 
 
AND THE CASAS GKANDES. 267 
 
 the worth}^ Father particularly noticed " their peace- 
 fulness and their gentleness." They were alike desi- 
 rous to be "baptized and instructed, a desire that Kino 
 willingly gratified. He estimates their numbers at four 
 thousand ; but whether or not this includes both tribes, 
 is not clear. They then irrigated their lands as now, 
 and had large cultivated fields of wheat. The Coco- 
 Maricopas were then situated beyond the Pimos, pro- 
 bably on the Salinas and Gila, below the junction. 
 Father Kino, in another expedition to the Gila, took 
 with him two Pimo Indians from the mission at Ures 
 to act as his interpreters, which enabled him to com- 
 municate freely with these tribes. 
 
 In an anonymous manuscript of a Jesuit, dated 
 1764, descriptive of Sonora,* where he lived many 
 years as a missionary, the writer speaks of the Pimos, 
 who were on the precise spot where we now find them 
 inhabiting both margins of the Gila. "The towns of 
 that people," he says, " which occupy ten leagues of the 
 mild vale along it, with some islands, abound in wheat, 
 maize, etc., and yield much cotton; to them also is 
 referred the fabrication of the finest kinds of pottery, 
 whose remains form one of the archaeological indica- 
 tions of the Gila valley." 
 
 But the most circumstantial account of the Pimos 
 is that of Father Pedro Font, who, with Father Garces, 
 made, in 1775-76, a journey from the Presidio of 
 Orcasitas, in Sonora, to Monterey, in California, of 
 
 * Extract from a MS. entitled, " Description Geografica Natural y 
 Curiosa de la Provincia de Sonora. Por un Amigo del Servicio de Dios. 
 Ano de 1764," in Mr. Schoolcraft's History, Condition, and Prospects of 
 the Indian Tribes, before referred to, vol. iii. p. 304. 
 
268 INDIANS OF THE GILA, 
 
 which I have before spoken. They passed down the 
 Gila, which river they struck about the place where 
 we were now encamped. The towns were then called 
 Uturituc and Sutaguison. I now quote from the jour- 
 nal of Father Font, a manuscript copy of which is in 
 my possession : 
 
 November 1st. 1775. We left the laguna at half-past 
 nine a. m., and at one p. m. arrived at Uturituc. The 
 Indians (according to my calculation about one thou- 
 sand) received us in two files, the men on one side, 
 the women on the other ; and when we alighted, they 
 all came by turns to salute us, and shake hands with 
 us, first the men and then the women ; and they mani- 
 fested great joy at seeing us. They lodged us in a 
 large shed of boughs, which they erected on purpose, 
 and (although Gentiles) planted a large cross in front 
 thereof, and then went and fetched water to the camp 
 for the people. 
 
 " November Id. This being All Souls' clay, we 
 three priests said nine masses. We left Uturituc at 
 11 a. m., and at 3 p. m. stopped on the banks of the 
 Gila, near the town of Sutaguison, having travelled 
 about four leagues. The inhabitants of the pueblo 
 (town), some five thousand souls, came out to receive 
 and salute us with demonstrations of great joy. On the 
 road we passed two other pueblos." 
 
 At the period referred to, it appears that the Coco- 
 Maricopas were not with the Pimos ; but in journeying 
 down the Gila, at the distance of seventeen leagues 
 from the villages of the latter, our travellers met with 
 a tribe whom they call the Opas • and fifteen leagues 
 farther, they encountered the Coco-Maricopas, which, 
 
AND THE CASAS GRANDES. 269 
 
 says Font, " are the same as the Opas." By following 
 the course of the river, which it appears the Fathers 
 did, the thirty-two leagues they travelled from the 
 Pimos, would bring them to the western end of the 
 Jornada, where they found the Coco-Maricopas. 
 
 It has been asserted that " the Maricopas have 
 removed gradually from the Gulf of California to their 
 present location in juxta-position with the Pimos."* 
 I cannot learn that they ever were on the Gulf; 
 although it appears from the missionary authorities, 
 that there was a band of them on the western bank of 
 the Colorado, " living in a valley thirty-six leagues in 
 length, and, for the space of nine leagues, remarkably 
 fertile and pleasant," who were " allied to the Coco- 
 Maricopas of the Gila." But from the early accounts 
 of the Indian tribes on the Gila, it appears they occu- 
 pied the valley from a point west of the Jornada, where 
 Father Font found them in 1775, to the Salinas above 
 its mouth. Father Sedelmayer met them in 1744, 
 about the same place on the Gila, living on peaceful 
 terms with the Pimos, and used them for his guides to 
 the Colorado. It appears that at this time, too, they 
 were living on the Salinas, in the very district that we 
 passed over in our visit to the ruins on that river. 
 
 In his description of this country, Venegas f speaks 
 of the river Assumption, which he says, is " composed 
 of two rivers, the Salado and Verde." These, on their 
 
 * Emory's Report, p. 89. 
 
 f The Salinas, where it unites with the Gila, was originally called 
 the Assumption. The San Francisco, which enters the latter from the 
 north about forty-five miles from its mouth, was called the Verde 
 (green) and also the Azul (blue) river. 
 
270 INDIANS OF THE GILA, 
 
 way to the Gila, run through a very pleasant country 
 of arable land, inhabited by the Coco-Maricopas, 
 who are separated from the Pimos by a desert, 
 although united to them in consanguinity. Their 
 kingdom is bounded on the west by a desert and 
 mountainous country, extending to the rancherias of 
 the Yumas, who live along the river Colorado, but 
 below its junction with the Gila."* 
 
 It therefore appears that the Coco-Maricopas were 
 found early in the last century on the opposite side of 
 the Jornada, or desert of forty-five miles, which reaches 
 to the villages of the Pimos ; and that thence they ex- 
 tended east, occupying the banks of the Salinas, to a 
 point north of the latter, from which, as Venegas says, 
 " they were separated by a desert." They also tra- 
 versed the country south of the Gila, where they are 
 often located on the early maps. 
 
 It is not my intention in this work to enter into 
 any ethnological disquisitions respecting these In- 
 dians; as they will form the subject-matter of another 
 work. I will merely observe that, notwithstanding 
 the deadly hostility existing between the Coco-Marico- 
 pas and Yumas, their languages are nearly the same. 
 The Comeya, or Diegenos, of the Pacific coast, will also 
 be found closely allied to them. 
 
 July 12th. In the hope that the Pimos might bring 
 us in some mules, as promised, I determined to remain* 
 another day before leaving the Gila, and to employ it 
 
 * Venegas, History of California. Vol. II. p. 184. See also Cla- 
 vigero, Storia de California. Hervas, Catalogo de las Lenguas. Vol. I. 
 pp. 337 to 343. 
 
AND THE CASAS GRANDES. 271 
 
 in making a visit to the celebrated " Casa Grande" or 
 " Casa de Montezuma," as it was called by our Indian 
 friends, alike with all other ancient remains in the coun- 
 try. 
 
 I left early this morning, accompanied by Dr. Webb 
 and Mr. Thurber, taking as guides two Pimo Indians, 
 one of them Misketaush, who spoke Spanish. We were 
 all mounted on mules. After following the road for 
 two miles, we turned to the east and struck General 
 Kearney's trail, which we found still deep and distinct, 
 although but the trail of a single file. It is sunk three 
 or four inches in the hard gravel plain ; and as it will 
 continue to be followed by other parties passing along 
 the Gila, as well as by the Indians, it may exist for 
 centuries, an enduring monument of that remarkable 
 campaign. General Kearney had with him a mountain 
 howitzer. The narrow ruts made by the wheels were 
 as distinct as though it had just passed along ; the six 
 years which had elapsed since the march of that officer, 
 have scarcely begun to deface them. 
 
 After following this trail in an easterly direction, 
 about eight miles across the plateau, which was covered 
 with small mezquit trees, we turned off to the south- 
 east. Another mile brought us to the building of 
 which we are in search, rising above a forest of mez- 
 quit. For two or three miles before reaching it, I had 
 noticed quantities, of broken pottery, as well as the 
 traces of ancient acequias or irrigating canals, along the 
 bottom-land, portions of which we occasionally crossed 
 on our left. This bottom is a continuation of that occu- 
 pied by the Pimos, although much narrower, it being 
 only a mile in width near the ruins. It is thickly 
 
272 INDIANS OP THE GILA, 
 
 covered with mezquit-trees from twelve to twenty feet 
 in height ; among those on the plateau, the tall and 
 graceful petahaya occasionally thrusts forth its thorny 
 arms, like so many solitary columns or giant candela- 
 bra. The bright walls of the ancient edifice presented 
 a striking contrast with the deep green foliage of the 
 trees which surrounded it. 
 
 The " Casas Grandes," or Great Houses, consist of 
 three buildings, all included within a space of one hun- 
 dred and fifty yards. The principal and larger one is 
 in the best state of preservation, its four exterior walls 
 and most of the inner ones remaining. A considerable 
 portion of the upper part of the walls has crumbled 
 away and fallen inwards, as appears from the great 
 quantity of rubbish and disintegrated adobe which fills 
 the first story of the building. Three stories now stand 
 and can plainly be made out by the ends of the beams 
 remaining in the walls, or by the cavities which they 
 occupied ; but I think there must have been another 
 story above, in order to account for the crumbling 
 walls and rubbish within. The central portion or tower 
 rising from the foundation, is some eight or ten feet 
 higher than the outer walls, and may have been several 
 feet, probably one story, higher when the building was 
 complete. The walls at the base are between four 
 and five feet in thickness ; their precise dimensions 
 could not be ascertained, so much having crumbled 
 away. The inside is perpendicular, while the exterior 
 face tapers towards the top,in a curved line. These walls, 
 as well as the division walls of the interior, are laid 
 with large square blocks of mud, prepared for the pur- 
 pose by pressing the material into large boxes about two 
 
AND THE CASAS GRANDES. 273 
 
 feet in height and four feet long. When the mud 
 became sufficiently hardened, the case was moved 
 along and again filled, and so on until the whole edifice 
 was completed. This is a rapid mode of building ; but 
 the Mexicans seem never to have applied it to any pur- 
 pose but the erection of fences or division-walls. The 
 material of this building is the mud of the valley, mix- 
 ed with gravel. The mud is very adhesive, and when 
 dried in the sun, is very durable. The outer surface 
 of the wall appears to have been plastered roughly ; but 
 the inside, as well as the surface of all the inner walls, 
 is hard finished. This is done with a composition of 
 adobe, and is still as smooth as when first made, and 
 has quite a polish. On one of the walls are rude 
 figures, drawn with red lines, but no inscriptions. From 
 the charred ends of the beams which remain in the 
 walls, it is evident that the building was destroyed by 
 fire. Some of the lintels which remain over the doors 
 are formed of several sticks of wood, stripped of their 
 bark, but showing no signs of a sharp instrument. The 
 beams which supported the floors, were from four to 
 five inches in diameter, placed about the same distance 
 apart, and inserted deeply in the walls. 
 
 MffiffiF- 
 
 Hieroglyphic. 
 
 Most of the apartments are connected by doors, 
 besides which there are circular openings in the upper 
 
 VOL. II. — is 
 
274 INDIANS OF THE GILA, 
 
 part of the chambers to admit light and air. The 
 ground plan of the building shows that all the apart- 
 ments were long and narrow without windows. The 
 inner rooms, I think, were used as store-rooms for corn ; 
 in fact, it is a question whether the whole may not 
 have been built for a similar purpose. There are four 
 entrances, one in the centre of each side. The door 
 on the western side is but two feet wide, and seven or 
 eight high; the others three feet wide and five in height, 
 tapering towards the top, — a peculiarity belonging to 
 the ancient edifices of Central America and Yucatan. 
 With the exception of these doors, there are no exterior 
 openings, except on the western side, where they are 
 of a circular form. Over the doorway corresponding 
 to the third story, on the western front, is an opening, 
 where there was a window, which I think was square. 
 In a line with this are two circular openings. 
 
 The southern front has fallen in in several places, 
 and is much injured by large fissures, yearly becoming 
 larger, so that the whole of it must fall ere long. The 
 other three fronts are quite perfect. The walls at the 
 base, and particularly at the corners, have crumbled 
 away to the extent of twelve or fifteen inches, and are 
 only held together by their great thickness. The moist- 
 ure here causes disintegration to take place more rapidly 
 than in any other part of the building ; and in a few years, 
 when the walls have become more undermined, the 
 whole structure must fall, and become a mere rounded 
 heap, like many other shapeless mounds which are 
 seen on the plain. A couple of days' labor spent in 
 restoring the walls at the base with mud and gravel, 
 would render this interesting monument as durable as 
 
 
■jr. 
 
AND THE CAS AS GRANDES. 275 
 
 brick, and enable it to last for centuries. How long it 
 has been in this ruined state, is not known ; we only 
 know that when visited by the missionaries a century 
 ago, it was in the same condition as at present. 
 
 The exterior dimensions of this building are fifty 
 feet from north to south, and forty from east to west. 
 On the ground floor are five apartments. Those on 
 the north and south sides extend the whole width of 
 the building, and measure 32 by 10 feet. Between 
 these are three smaller apartments, the central one 
 being within the tower. All a,re open to the sky. 
 There is no appearance of a stairway on any of the 
 walls ; whence it has been inferred that the means of 
 ascent may have been outside. 
 
 On the south-west of the principal building is a 
 second one in a state of ruin, with hardly enough of 
 the walls remaining to trace its original form. The 
 accompanying ground-plan will show what portions of 
 the walls are standing. The dark lines represent the 
 erect walls, the faint lines the heaps of fallen ones. 
 The central portion, judging from the height of the 
 present walls, was two stories high ; the outer wall, 
 which can only be estimated from the debris, could not 
 have been more than a single story. 
 
 North-east of the main building is a third one, 
 smaller than either of the others, but in such an utter 
 state of decay that its original form cannot be deter- 
 mined. It is small, and may have been no more than 
 a watch tower. In every direction as far as the eye 
 can reach, are seen heaps of ruined edifices, with no 
 portions of their walls standing. To the north-west, 
 about two hundred yards distant, is a circular embank- 
 
276 
 
 INDIANS OF THE GILA, 
 
 ment from eighty to one hundred yards in circumfer- 
 ence, which is open in the centre, and is probably the 
 remains of an inclosure for cattle. For miles around 
 
 Elevation of Casas Grandes, Rio Gila, 
 
 these in all directions, the plain is strewn with broken 
 pottery and metates or corn-grinders. The pottery is 
 red, white, lead-color, and black. The figures are 
 
 Ground Plan of Casas Grandes, Eio Gila. 
 
 usually geometrical and formed with taste, and in 
 character are similar to the ornaments found on the 
 pottery from the ruins on the Salinas and much further 
 north. Much of this pottery is painted on the inside, 
 a peculiarity which does not belong to the modern 
 pottery. In its texture too, it is far superior. I col- 
 lected a quantity of these fragments, from which I 
 selected the larger pieces. Those containing the most 
 
AND THE CASAS GRANDES. 277 
 
 interesting patterns are represented in the accompany- 
 ing engraving. 
 
 The origin of these buildings is shrouded in mys- 
 tery. They were found much as they now appear by 
 the earliest explorers of the country, who were told 
 by the Indians that they had been built five hundred 
 years before. One thing is evident, that at some 
 former period the valley of the Gila, from this ruin to the 
 western extremity of the rich bottom-lands now occu- 
 pied by the Pimos and Coco-Maricopas, as well as the 
 broad valley of the Salinas, for upwards of forty miles, 
 was densely populated. The ruined buildings, the 
 irrigating canals, and the vast quantities of pottery of 
 a superior quality, show that, while they were an agri- 
 cultural people, they were much in advance of the 
 present semi-civilized tribes of the Gila. But this civi- 
 lization extended far beyond the district named. 
 From information given me by Leroux, it appears that 
 ruins of the same sort exist on the San Francisco or 
 Verde River ; and Captain Johnston and Major Emory 
 both saw similar evidences of wide-spread population 
 far above the district in question. What connection 
 this ancient people had with the Moquis and Zunis, 
 and with the "seven cities of Cibola," visited by Marco 
 de Niza and Coronado, remains to be settled. This is 
 strictly an ethnological question, requiring evidences 
 and arguments which do not properly belong to this 
 work. So with regard to the identification of particu- 
 lar tribes yet in existence as the descendants of this 
 ancient race, philology renders us the most reliable 
 aid. But I have omitted speaking of philological ana- 
 logies, as they belong to another topic, and would 
 
278 INDIANS OF THE GILA, 
 
 occupy too much space to be introduced here. Little 
 has yet been done for the ethnology of the Indian 
 tribes west of the Rocky Mountains, except by Mr. 
 Hale, in his elaborate and admirable " Ethnology and 
 Philology of the United States Exploring Expedition." 
 But I have reason to believe, that when the various lan- 
 guages of Mexico, California, and of the tribes between 
 the Colorado and New Mexico, are subjected to a rigid 
 examination and comparison, some interesting facts 
 will be deduced. 
 
 The most detailed of the early accounts of the 
 ruins on the Gila is that of Father Pedro Font, to whose 
 interesting and reliable journal I have before alluded. 
 As these ruins have been misunderstood by many, 
 and an important error propagated respecting them, I 
 will give an extract from the diary of this missionary 
 from the manuscript copy obtained by me in Califor- 
 nia : 
 
 " The Commandant determined that we should 
 rest to-day, and thus we had an opportunity to ex- 
 amine the large building called Montezuma's House, 
 situated at the distance of one league from the river 
 Gila, and three leagues E. S. E. of the laguna. We 
 were accompanied thither by some Indians, and by 
 the Governor of Uturituc, who on his way related to 
 us a history and tradition respecting said house, 
 handed down from their forefathers, and composed 
 altogether of fiction confusedly mixed with some 
 Catholic truths. We carefully examined this edifice 
 and its ruins, the iconographical plan of which I here 
 lay down ; and the better to understand it, I give the 
 following explanation and description : 
 
AND THE CASAS GRANDES. 279 
 
 " The large house or palace of Montezuma, accord- 
 ing to the histories and meagre accounts of it which we 
 have from the Indians, may have been built some five 
 hundred years ago: for, as it appears, this building 
 was erected by the Mexicans, when, during their 
 transmigration, the Devil led them through various 
 countries until they arrived at the promised land of 
 Mexico ; and in their sojourns, which were long ones, 
 they formed towns and built edifices. The site on which 
 this house is built is level on all sides, and at the dis- 
 tance of about one league from the river Gila, and the 
 ruins of the houses which composed this town extend 
 more than a league towards the east and other cardi- 
 nal points ; and all this land is partially covered with 
 pieces of pots, jars, plates, etc. ; some common, and 
 others painted of different colors, white, blue, red, 
 etc. ; which is a sign that this has been a large town, 
 inhabited by a distinct people from the Pimos of the 
 river Gila, who do not know how to manufacture such 
 earthenware. We made an exact survey of this edi- 
 fice, and of its situation, which we measured in the 
 mean time with a lance ; and this measure I after- 
 wards reduced to geometrical feet, which gave a little 
 more or less than the following result : 
 
 " The house forms an oblong square, facing exactly 
 to the four cardinal points, east, west, north, and 
 south ; and round about it there are ruins, indicating 
 a fence or wall, which surrounded the house and other 
 buildings, particularly in the corners, where it appears 
 there has been some edifice like an interior castle or 
 watch-tower ; for in the angle which faces towards the 
 south-west there stands a ruin, with its divisions and an 
 
280 INDIANS OF THE GILA, 
 
 upper story. The exterior wall extends from north to 
 south four hundred and twenty feet, and from east to 
 west two hundred and sixty feet. The interior of 
 the house consists of five halls; the three middle ones 
 being of one size, and the two extreme ones longer. 
 The three middle ones are twenty-six feet in length 
 from north to south, and ten feet in breadth from east 
 to west. The two extreme ones measure twelve feet 
 from north to south, and thirty-eight feet from east to 
 west."* 
 
 The Casa Grande, as described in this extract from 
 Father Font, has been alluded to by many authors, 
 and the dimensions, as given by him, quoted; but all 
 have mistaken the meaning of the writer in the dimen- 
 sions. He speaks of the house around which "there 
 are ruins, indicating a fence or wall which surrounded 
 the house and other buildings ; " and then goes on to 
 say, that "the exterior ivall extends from north to 
 south four hundred and twenty feet, and from east to 
 west two hundred and sixty feet." Nearly all the 
 writers who refer to the building (and there are many, 
 among which may be named Baron Humboldt him- 
 self*), quote these dimensions of the "fence" or "ex- 
 terior wall," as those of the edifice itself. It is possi- 
 ble that the manuscript referred to by Baron Hum- 
 boldt differed from that in my possession ; for the 
 extract from Font's journal, contained in Mr. School- 
 craft's work on the Indian tribes, says : " The exterior 
 
 * Father Pedro Font's Journal from Orcasitas, in Sonora, to Mon- 
 terey, California, in 1775, '76, '77. MS. 
 
 f Political Essay on New Spain, vol. ii. p. 301. 
 
AND THE CAS AS GR ANDES. 281 
 
 wall of the house is four hundred and twenty feet," 
 etc.* What follows clearly shows this to be an error ; 
 for it says, "the interior of the house consists of five 
 halls," and then gives the dimensions of each apartment, 
 which nearly correspond with my admeasurement, f 
 
 Mr. Gallatin is the only writer, as far as I know, 
 who understood the greater dimensions alluded to as 
 referring to an exterior wall. After giving the size 
 of the building and its apartments from Father Font, 
 he says, "Around the whole there are indications of an 
 external wall, which included the house and other 
 buildings," four hundred and twenty by two hundred 
 and sixty feet. J 
 
 The earliest account of this building is that of 
 Mangi, who, in company with Father Kino, visited it 
 in the year 1694, on which occasion he said mass in it. § 
 His relation also exists only in manuscript. " There 
 was one great edifice," says he, " with the principal 
 room in the middle of four stories, and the adjoining 
 rooms on its four sides of three stories, with the walls 
 two yards in thickness, of strong mortar and clay, so 
 smooth and shining within that they appear like bur- 
 nished tables, and so polished that they shone like the 
 earthenware of Puebla. 
 
 "At the distance of an arquebuss shot twelve other 
 
 * Font's admeasurement was in Spanish geometrical feet, which dif- 
 fer from the English foot of twelve inches. 
 
 f History, Condition, and Prospect of the Indian Tribes, vol. iii. 
 p. 300. 
 
 J Trans, of Amer. Ethnol. Society, vol. ii. p. 86. 
 
 § See extract from Mangi's Diary, in Schoolcraft's History and Con- 
 dition of the Indian Tribes, vol. iii. p. 301. 
 
282 INDIANS OF THE GILA, 
 
 houses are to be seen, also half fallen, having thick 
 walls, and all the ceilings burnt, except in the lower 
 room of one house, which is of round timbers, smooth 
 and not thick, which appeared to be of cedar or savin, 
 and over them sticks of very equal size, and a cake of 
 mortar and hard clay, making a roof or ceiling of great 
 ingenuity. In the environs are to be seen many other 
 ruins and heaps of broken earth, which circumscribe 
 it two leagues, with much broken earthenware of 
 plates and pots of fine clay, painted of many colors, 
 and which resemble the jars of Guadalajara, in Spain. 
 It may be inferred that the population or city of this 
 body politic was very large ; and that it was of one 
 government is shown by a main canal, which comes 
 from the river by the plain, running around for the 
 distance of three leagues, and inclosing the inhab- 
 itants in its area, being in breadth ten varas,'* and 
 about four in depth, through which perhaps was 
 directed one half the volume of the river, in such a 
 manner that it might serve for a defensive moat, as 
 well as to supply the wards with water, and irrigate 
 'the plantations in the adjacencies." 
 
 By the foregoing extracts it will be seen that these 
 buildings were in much the same condition as that 
 in which we now see them, although a century and a 
 half has elapsed since Mangi's visit. He was told of 
 other ruins " a day's journey to the north on another 
 stream " flowing into the Gila, which were doubtless 
 those on the Salinas that I have described. 
 
 * About twenty-seven feet. See also Alegro's Hist, de la Compa- 
 nia de Jesus, en Nueva Espana, torn. iii. p. 84. 
 
AND THE CASAS GRANDES. 283 
 
 I have been unable to learn from what source the 
 prevailing idea has arisen of the migration of the 
 Aztecs, or ancient Mexicans, from the north into the 
 valley of Mexico, and of the three halts they made in 
 their journey thither. This is another idea which has 
 been so widely promulgated that it has settled down 
 into an acknowledged fact, although I confess I have 
 seen no satisfactory evidence of its truth. People 
 have got too much in the way of ascribing all ancient 
 remains to the Aztecs. We hear of them on the 
 shores of Lake Michigan, where some have located the 
 famous city of Aztlan. Other remains are spoken of 
 in the Navajo county, south of the Great Salt Lake, 
 where the Aztecs are said to have tarried a while. 
 Again they are placed at the " Casas Grandes," on 
 the Gila; whence they are supposed to have gone 
 to a place north of the city of Chihuahua, where 
 extensive remains are said to exist. The traditions 
 which gave rise to this notion are extremely vague, 
 and were not seriously entertained until Torquemada, 
 Boturini, and Clavigero gave them currency, but they 
 must now give way to the more reliable results from 
 linguistic comparisons. No analogy has yet been 
 traced between the language of the old Mexicans and 
 any tribe at the north in the district from which they 
 are supposed to have come ; nor in any of the relics, 
 ornaments, or works of art, do we observe a resem- 
 blance between them. The explorations and investi- 
 gations recently made, and others now in progress, 
 may throw further light on this subject, which I shall 
 now dismiss. 
 
 After three hours spent at the ruins, the hottest, I 
 
284 INDIANS OF THE GILA, AND THE CASAS GR ANDES. 
 
 think, I ever experienced, we set out on our return to 
 camp. Our Indian companions, having got out of 
 water (of which we had none to spare), set off in 
 advance to reach the river, and there wait for us. 
 They were quite reluctant to go alone even a couple 
 of miles, for fear of the Apaches ; and I doubt whether 
 they would have ventured even then without us, had 
 they not been driven to do so by extreme thirst. As 
 our canteens were all exhausted before leaving, we 
 were obliged to follow their example. We found the 
 river's bank about fifteen feet high, and so abrupt that 
 it was with some difficulty we reached the water. 
 After following the route by which we came, and 
 crossing on our way several of the old irrigating 
 canals, from which the ancient people who occupied 
 the valley derived their water, we reached our camp 
 at three o'clock, much fatigued though amply repaid 
 by our day's excursion. The mercury had stood in 
 the shade, beneath the trees, at 119° Fahrenheit, 
 between the hours of ten and three o'clock. 
 
 I found a few Indians in camp, among them a 
 messenger from Francisco Dukey, the Maricopa inter- 
 preter, who, ashamed to come himself, had sent an- 
 other to me, begging that I would give him a written 
 recommendation to show to other Americans. His 
 request was peremptorily refused. 
 
CASAS GRANDES TO SANTA CRUZ. 285 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIII. 
 
 CASAS GRANDES TO SANTA CRUZ. 
 
 Leave the Gila — Terrific storm on the desert — Encounter a party of Amer- 
 icans at midnight — Stopped by the darkness — Unpleasant situation — 
 Pack-mules and cattle missing — Picacho mountain — Vegetation of the 
 desert — Second night's march — Arrival at Tucson — General Blanco — 
 Arrival of Mexican troops — Campaign against the Apaches — Meet Mr. 
 Coons with 14,000 sheep — His disasters — Visit from Gen. Blanco and 
 his officers — Repairs on wagons — Tucson and its valley — Meteorite- 
 San Xavier del Bac — Beautiful church — Spanish and Anglo-Saxon col- 
 onization — Incessant rains — Presidio of Tubac — Meet Inez Gonzales, the 
 captive girl — Her sad fate — Uncertainty of irrigated lands — California 
 emigrants — Calabasa — Picturesque valley — Tumacacori — San Lazaro — 
 More emigrants — Reach Santa Cruz. 
 
 July IWi. The heat continued excessive. The ther- 
 mometer had ranged every day since our arrival at 
 the Maricopa and Pimo villages at from 100° to 119° 
 between the hours of 10 and 3 ; in fact it had scarcely 
 fallen below 100 between these hours since we struck 
 the desert beyond the Colorado. During the week 
 we were at Fort Yuma, as well as during our journey, 
 there was but little variation. The nights remained 
 comfortable all the time ; so that in the open air a 
 single blanket was necessary. 
 
 Having a long march before us, we left camp at half- 
 past 4 p. m., desiring to reach a mountain forty -five 
 
286 CASAS GRANDES TO 
 
 miles distant, or half way across the great Jornada, the 
 following morning, although we had little hope of find- 
 ing water until we should get to Tucson. The mountain 
 referred to is called the " Picacho," a name applied to 
 every high abrupt peak. Our course lay a little to the 
 east of south, direct for the Picacho, across a vast open 
 plain. A short range of mountains on the west, within a 
 mile of the road, was soon passed. On the east was a 
 lofty range fifty miles distant, with no intervening ob- 
 jects. The road was excellent; and our animals being 
 fresh, we hurried them on as fast as it was prudent to 
 do. As we progressed, there seemed to be a likeli- 
 hood of rain, which was somewhat increased by a per- 
 ceptible change in the air. The prospect before us 
 was dismal enough, in the midst of the wide-spreading 
 desert ; for by night-fall we had passed the mountains 
 on our right, and were soon far from any landmark. 
 
 As the sun sank below the horizon, the dark cloud- 
 bank which we had observed far to the south ascended, 
 and we could see the rain already falling on the dis- 
 tant mountain. Night now set in ; the thick clouds 
 rose higher and higher, and before nine o'clock had 
 completely obscured every star. Shrouded as we were 
 in darkness, it was no easy matter to find our way 
 through the low mezquit bushes scattered over the 
 desert. But nature's light-house opened its portals, 
 and the vivid lightning flashed around us ; so that 
 the black mountain, our beacon in this desert, seemed 
 constantly before us. Up to this time I had taken the 
 lead in my wagon ; but as my mules became alarmed, 
 rendering it impossible to get along, I placed Mr.Leroux, 
 who rode a milk-white mule, immediately before mine. 
 
SANTA CBUZ. 287 
 
 His animal could be seen, and all followed him. Peals 
 of the most terrific thunder burst upon us, leaving 
 scarcely an interval of repose. Next came violent 
 gusts of wind, accompanied by clouds of sand and dust, 
 reminding one of the African simoom. The wind was 
 from the south, and brought the sand directly in our 
 faces. To avoid it was impossible. Not a tree was to 
 be seen ; no ravine appeared where we could shelter 
 ourselves ; and the nearest mountain was yet twenty 
 miles off. Lastly came torrents of rain, and this ter- 
 rific storm was at its height. 
 
 Slowly we journeyed on, drenched to the skin, not- 
 withstanding our overcoats and India rubber gar- 
 ments. The march before us must be made, and the 
 sooner the " Picacho" was reached the better. To stop, 
 was to endanger our animals ; for no pools had yet 
 been seen where the rain had accumulated, so that we 
 had neither water nor grass to give them. At mid- 
 night, in the midst of this extreme darkness and rain, 
 where one would about as soon expect to meet a human 
 being as in the middle of the broad ocean, we were 
 suddenly brought to a stand by the sound of voices! 
 "Who comes there? Quien vive?" were quickly 
 cried by a dozen voices in English and Spanish, and as 
 quickly answered, "Friends! Amigos! Who are 
 you? Where are you from? De donde viene?" etc., 
 and in a moment we were surrounded by horsemen, 
 pack-mules, and the accompaniments of a large party. 
 Were they Indians, or Mexicans, or Americans — friends 
 or enemies, ran through my mind, till the sound of 
 English voices dissipated my apprehensions. It proved 
 to be a party of between forty and fifty Americans, 
 
288 CASAS GEANDES TO 
 
 bound for California. We stopped about ten minutes 
 to exchange a few words, though we could not distin- 
 guish faces. This we were, in a measure, compelled 
 to do, to separate our animals from those of the passing 
 train, for all were now mixed up together. The party 
 was from Missouri, and had come by the way of El 
 Paso. They gave us some news from the latter place, 
 which was very acceptable. Inquiries were made by 
 each party about the grass and water on the route, 
 when, the animals becoming restive, we bade them 
 adieu, and resumed our journey. 
 
 Up to this time, the tempest had not in the least 
 abated. Indeed the darkness seemed growing still 
 thicker, while the flashes of lightning were becoming 
 less frequent, which rendered it more difficult to keep 
 on our course. After a longer interval than usual, the 
 heavens were again lighted up, when I found myself 
 going in an opposite direction to the right one, and the 
 party much scattered. Leroux came up, and said that 
 it was absolutely necessary to stop where we were ; as 
 some of the pack-mules were missing, and it was 
 impossible to keep together or find our way in such 
 impenetrable darkness. I accordingly had my mules 
 taken out and hitched to my wagon ; the same was 
 done with the teams. All the pack-mules that could be 
 found, were brought together ; and the horsemen fast- 
 ened their animals wherever they could find a bush. 
 Dr. Webb and myself remained quietly in our wagon. 
 
 In the midst of the storm Mr. Thurber, with a great 
 deal of perseverance, succeeded in making a fire. This 
 was done by taking the leaves of some books that had 
 seen their best days, and protecting them from the 
 
SANTA CRUZ. 289 
 
 rain with an India rubber coat, until well lighted. To 
 these was added some dry wood found in the wagons ; 
 and when bushes were piled upon the whole, a blazing 
 fire was the result. This served as a guide to our 
 scattered people, some of whom had found themselves 
 among the emigrating party, with their faces turned 
 towards the Gila ! 
 
 June 14d.li. As soon as we could see, the animals 
 were mustered ; when three mules with their packs, 
 two donkeys, and our three remaining beef-cattle, were 
 missing. Two Mexican arrieros were left to hunt up 
 these animals, and the train resumed its journey. 
 The road was now very muddy, and every depression 
 in the desert became filled with water, making the 
 travelling quite heavy. 
 
 Soon after starting we met the rest of the party 
 that we encountered in the night. They had become 
 separated from those in advance, and had been com- 
 pelled to await the return of day. Among them were 
 several women on mules, who appeared to have had 
 a sorry time of it. The " Picacho" was still far 
 ahead ; but after watering the animals, we pushed on, 
 and at 11 o'clock reached its base, where we encamp- 
 ed. I had been eighteen hours in my seat, and was 
 glad to throw myself on the ground beneath the shade 
 of a mezquit bush, and get some sleep. After an hour's 
 rest I got up and made a fire for my cook, who was 
 still deep in his slumbers ; and by one o'clock we had 
 our breakfast. This forty-five miles was the most 
 fatiguing day's journey we had yet had, including the 
 exposure during the whole night to such a tempest of 
 wind and rain. 
 
 VOL. n. — 19 
 
290 
 
 CASAS GRANDES TO 
 
 The vegetation of this desert is the same as that 
 near the Gila, viz., dwarfish mezquitat intervals, larrea 
 Mexicana, palo verde, and cacti ; the great petahaya 
 luxuriating as usual in the barrenness. A tuft of grass 
 was occasionally seen, and now and then some brilliant 
 flower that had ventured to u waste its sweetness on 
 the desert air." 
 
 rioacho of the Tucson desert, from the South. 
 
 The mud holes here were filled with water, but so 
 turbid that we could not taste it. We had enough, 
 however, in our canteens and kegs for drinking pur- 
 poses. There was quite a thicket of mezquit here, and 
 
SANTA CRUZ. 291 
 
 an excellent place for a camp. The animals found a 
 tolerable supply of food in the tufts of grass, and mez- 
 quit beans. 
 
 At 5 o'clock in the afternoon we started again, 
 although we had had but little rest. I would have 
 remained till morning, but our water was nearly out. 
 The road had by this time become quite dry, and we 
 rolled on at a steady gait of three miles an hour. Soon 
 after leaving, the sky became overcast, and we feared 
 a repetition of the storm ; but it did not occur, and, 
 although we had considerable difficulty in keeping 
 our course, we were enabled to continue our journey 
 through the entire night. 
 
 July 15th. At 5 o'clock this morning, being in ad- 
 vance of the train, we reached some mud holes contain- 
 ing a little water, which our thirsty animals drank with 
 eagerness. During the night, many who were mount- 
 ed on mules were so much fatigued as to be unable to 
 retain their seats in their saddles ; so dismounting, and 
 tying their animals to the bushes, or to their bodies, 
 they lay down on the desert, and refreshed themselves 
 with a couple of hours sleep. At seven, the wagons 
 with the rest of the party came up ; and, although 
 but eight miles from Tucson, such was our fatigue 
 after two long nights' ride, that we determined to 
 remain here to-day. Much to my regret, no tents 
 were pitched ; for a heavy shower came up in the 
 night, which wet most of the party to the skin. I was 
 so fortunate as to make my bed beneath a wagon ; 
 where, protected by an India rubber blanket, I passed 
 a comfortable night, and scarcely knew of the rain that 
 was falling around me until morning. 
 
292 . CASAS GRANDES TO 
 
 July 16th. We started with a heavy road, and made 
 but slow progress. The wagons got mired several times 
 in crossing arroyos, one of them so deeply that it be- 
 came necessary to unload it before it could be released ; 
 while another, in passing a deep gully, plunged so 
 suddenly down, that the tongue was snapped off. 
 
 We reached Tucson at ten o'clock, a. m. As we 
 passed the garrison, a body of Mexican soldiers were 
 entering, who had just arrived from the south on a 
 campaign against the Apaches. Among the officers 
 standing at the gate I recognised Captain Barragan, 
 who was in command at Santa Cruz when we reached 
 that place in October last. Hearing from him that 
 General Blanco was within, I left the train and accom- 
 panied the Captain to pay my respects to him. 
 
 General Blanco informed me that the depredations 
 of the Apaches had lately been more frequent than 
 ever. Many animals had been stolen in the immedi- 
 ate vicinity of Tucson, Tubac, and Santa Cruz; and 
 many Mexicans had lost their lives. The troops had had 
 some skirmishes with the Indians, in which Coletto 
 Amarillo, one of the chiefs who so frequently visited 
 us at the Copper Mines, was killed. The General fur- 
 thermore told me that when on his march he fell upon 
 a large Indian trail, and noticed among the footprints 
 several made by new American shoes, which he readily 
 distinguished from the Mexican shoes by their larger 
 size and heels. He believed that there were Ameri- 
 cans among them, or that they had murdered and 
 robbed some party of emigrants. In October, when 
 the weather should be cooler, and the rainy season 
 past, it was his intention to make a campaign against 
 

SANTA CRUZ. . 293 
 
 the Apaches on the Gila, and thence go to the Mogo- 
 llon Mountains, near the Copper Mines. After half an 
 hour spent with the General, I rode a mile from the 
 town, and there found my party encamped on the 
 banks of the Santa Cruz River, where there was an 
 abundance of grass. 
 
 Near our camp we found Mr. Coons, an American, 
 on his way to San Francisco, with 14,000 sheep. For 
 the protection of this large flock, he had sixty persons, 
 forty-five of whom were Americans, and fifteen Mexi- 
 cans. He quieted our anxiety as to grass and water, 
 having found an abundance of both on his route. 
 There had been much rain, and the grass was in conse- 
 quence in fine condition. He had met many Indians 
 near the Guadalupe Pass, but would not allow them to 
 enter his camp. When near Janos, a party of Apaches 
 rushed among them during the day, and succeeded in 
 running off fourteen mules and horses. Mr. Coons 
 was entirely unprepared for the attack, particularly as 
 the rascals approached him from - the town where they 
 had been. Before he could get a party mounted, the 
 robbers had got a long start of them, which rendered 
 pursuit in vain. This loss so disabled Mr. C, that he 
 was compelled to return to the city of Chihuahua, pur- 
 chase more animals, and strengthen his party ; which 
 detained him six weeks. His party was now well 
 armed, and he felt himself strong enough to cope with 
 any roving band that might attempt to interrupt him. 
 
 General Blanco with his staff, and several other 
 officers from Tucson, escorted by a troop of lancers, 
 called on me in the afternoon. These lancers were 
 well dressed and equipped, and made a handsome 
 
294 CASAS GRANDES TO 
 
 appearance. I was by no means well prepared for 
 the visit ; for the wagon which contained my tent and 
 baggage, being the one which had met with the acci- 
 dent before mentioned, had not yet reached camp : I 
 was therefore obliged to receive him in another and 
 very small tent, not large enough for one half the 
 officers who accompanied him. It began to rain too at 
 the time, which added to my dilemma. However, 
 there were other tents pitched, in which these gentle- 
 men took refuge. General Blanco again spoke of our 
 common enemy, the Apaches, and of operations against 
 them. He recommended that the American troops 
 should attack them north of the Gila, while the Mexi- 
 cans should receive them as they came south for 
 refuge. I told him that my views agreed with those 
 he had expressed, and that I had suggested a simi- 
 lar plan of operation to the United States government 
 in a recent dispatch sent from California. 
 
 The General tendered me the use of his black- 
 smith's shop, and any other facilities I required to 
 repair my broken wagons ; of which I was very glad to 
 avail myself, although we found it difficult to obtain 
 a piece of wood for a new tongue. My little wagon also 
 wanted repairs, and some of the animals required 
 shoeing. There was, therefore, no alternative but to 
 remain here a day or two. I would have regretted 
 this delay more, had. not the grass been so good that 
 I believed the mules would be benefited by it. In 
 the evening the rain set in hard, and continued during 
 the night. But we were now in good tents, with 
 water, grass, and wood around us, so that we had no 
 cause for complaint. 
 
SANTA CRUZ. 295 
 
 July 17th. Sent the wagons up to the town ; but 
 only one man was found who professed to be a black- 
 smith, and could work upon them. Sent four of my 
 men up to assist ; but altogether they made little pro- 
 gress, for the want of tools. 
 
 Tucson is the most northern town in Mexico, and 
 a very old place. It is found on the oldest maps, and 
 is referred to by the early missionaries. It has always 
 been, and is to this day, a presidio or garrison ; but for 
 which the place could not be sustained. In its best 
 days it boasted a population of a thousand souls, now 
 diminished to about one third that number. It stands 
 on the plateau adjoining the fertile valley watered by 
 the Santa Cruz River, a small stream which rises ten 
 miles north-east of the town of Santa Cruz, whence it 
 flows south to that place. It then takes a westerly 
 direction for about ten miles, after which it flows 
 northward through Tubac and Tucson, and soon be- 
 comes lost in the desert. The lands near Tucson are 
 very rich, and were once extensively cultivated ; but 
 the encroachments of the Apaches compelled the peo- 
 ple to abandon their ranchos and seek safety within 
 the town. The miserable population, confined to such 
 narrow limits, barely gains a subsistence, and could 
 not exist a year but for the protection from the 
 troops. More than once the town has been invested 
 by from one to two thousand Indians, and attempts 
 made to take it, but thus far without success. These 
 Apaches have become reduced quite as much as the 
 Mexicans ; so that two hundred warriors are about the 
 largest force they can now collect. 
 
 In addition to the river alluded to, there are some 
 
296 CASAS GRANDES TO 
 
 springs near the base of a hill a mile to the west of the 
 town, which furnish a copious supply of water. Near 
 these is a hamlet, and a large hacienda, which in 
 former times must have been very rich. It is now in 
 a decayed state, and but a small portion of its fine 
 lands are cultivated. This hacienda is seen in the fore- 
 ground of the annexed sketch of Tucson. 
 
 Wheat, maize, peas, beans, and lentils are raised 
 in perfection ; while among the fruits may be named, 
 apples, pears, peaches, and grapes. The only vege- 
 tables we saw were onions, pumpkins, and beans ; but 
 in such a fertile valley all kinds will of course do 
 well. 
 
 The houses of Tucson are all of adobe, and the 
 majority are in a state of ruin. No attention seems to 
 be given to repair ; but as soon as a dwelling becomes 
 uninhabitable, it is deserted, the miserable tenants 
 creeping into some other hovel where they may eke 
 out their existence. We found three hundred soldiers 
 ■in the place, although the average number for some 
 years past has not exceeded twenty. 
 
 The bottom-lands are here about a mile in width. 
 Through them run irrigating canals in every direction, 
 the lines of which are marked by rows of cotton- 
 woods and willows, presenting an agreeable land- 
 scape. 
 
 I ascended a rocky hill above the hacienda men- 
 tioned, about a quarter of a mile from our camp, and 
 had a fine view of the valley and surrounding country. 
 This hill was covered with cacti of every variety, 
 among which the petahaya was most prominent. The 
 fouquiera, yucca, and agave, were also luxuriating 
 
SANTA CRUZ. 297 
 
 among the rocks ; for scarcely a particle of soil could 
 be seen. Below was the valley, its fields and acequias 
 defined by the long lines of shrubbery and trees. The 
 town is seen on the border of the plateau, where the 
 desert begins, and stretches off .to the east, to a high 
 range of mountains about fifteen miles distant. In these 
 mountains is a singular cliff of rocks resembling a huge 
 castle. Like other mountain ranges, these take a 
 south-easterly direction and extend nearly to the San 
 Pedro. Directly south lies the valley of Santa Cruz, 
 presenting to the eye an agreeable contrast to the bar- 
 ren mountains and the long line of desert on either 
 side. 
 
 The two men left on the desert to hunt up the 
 missing animals arrived to-day. They went back to 
 the Pimo villages, and found the pack-mules following 
 the emigrants that we had met. 
 
 July lSt7i. I went out this morning and completed 
 my sketch of the valley and town from the hill visited 
 yesterday. The men were still at work on the wagons, 
 to be completed by evening. I bought some sheep 
 here at three dollars ahead, as our live stock was 
 getting low. 
 
 In the afternoon I called to take leave of General 
 Blanco, and at the same time examine a remarkable 
 meteorite, which is used for an anvil in the blacksmith's 
 shop. This mass resembles native iron, and weighs 
 about six hundred pounds. Its greatest length is five 
 feet. Its exterior is quite smooth, while the lower part 
 which projects from the larger leg is very jagged and 
 rough. It was found about twenty miles distant 
 towards Tubac, and about eight miles from the road, 
 
298 CASAS GRANDES TO 
 
 where we were told are many larger masses. The 
 annexed drawing gives the appearance of this singular 
 mass. There is another larger mass within the garrison 
 grounds, of which I did not take a sketch. With much 
 labor Dr. Webb broke off a fragment of this meteorite 
 for the purpose of analysis. 
 
 Nearly all our Mexican arrieros got drunk to-day, 
 and caused much disturbance in the town. I would 
 have discharged them, but could find none to take 
 their places. 
 
 July YStli. We were off this morning before the 
 sun had risen, and soon entered a thickly wooded val- 
 ley of mezquit. A ride of nine miles brought us to 
 the mission of San Xavier del Bac ; truly a miserable 
 place, consisting of from eighty to one hundred huts, 
 or wigwams, made of mud or straw, the sole occupants 
 of which are Pimo Indians, though generally called 
 Papagos. In the midst of these hovels stands the 
 largest and most beautiful church in the State of 
 Sonora. It is built of brick on the summit of a low 
 hill, and has two towers and a dome. In a square, 
 around and directly connected with the church, are 
 some adobe houses, Avhich were occupied when the 
 Mission was in a flourishing state. All save one are now 
 tenantless, and this, which adjoins the church, is occu- 
 pied by the only Mexican family in the place. The 
 train passed directly through, while a few of the gen- 
 tlemen and myself drew up at the church door to 
 examine its interior. 
 
 This church has more pretensions to architectural 
 beauty than any I saw in the country, although its 
 general character is the same. It is elaborately orna-r 
 
METEORITE AT THE HACIENDA DE CONCEPCION, SHOWING OPPOSITE SIDES. 
 
 MKTEORITE AT TITCSON. p. 2S 
 
SANTA CRUZ. 299 
 
 mented inside and out, and contains many decorations 
 new in architecture, partaking neither of the Greek, 
 Roman, nor Gothic orders. Along the eaves is a row 
 of queer looking creatures, the like of which cannot 
 probably be found, even in this country of strange 
 animals. The interior is gaudily painted ; and from 
 the profusion of gilding, one might suppose the Mis- 
 sion to have possessed a gold placer. Around the 
 altar, and in the niches, are many wooden statues, 
 from the size of a foot to that of life. The poor Indian 
 doubtless believed them all to be saints, and made his 
 offerings accordingly, although about one half are 
 statues of old Spanish cavaliers and figures of Chinese 
 mandarins. There are besides angels and archangels, 
 or figures intended to represent celestial beings with 
 wings, five or six feet high, springing from the walls. 
 This church was built towards the close of the last cen- 
 tury from the produce of the Mission lands, and is 
 throughout in a good state of preservation. It appears 
 that there was a previous structure here, erected by 
 Father Kino as early as 1700.* 
 
 What a marked difference there is in Spanish and 
 English colonization ! Here the zealous Missionary 
 preceded all others, planting the cross along with the 
 banner of his country. Then commenced the work of 
 baptizing ; and as soon as a sufficient number of con- 
 verts had been made, a fertile valley was chosen, and 
 a church erected with buildings to accommodate some 
 hundreds. Next came the colonists, whose main efforts 
 
 * Alegre, Hist, de la Comp. de Jesus en Nueva Espana. — Tom. iii. 
 p. 119. 
 
300 CASAS GRANDES TO 
 
 were to support the Mission and its priests. The 
 Anglo-Saxon pioneer entered the wilderness with his 
 axe, his plough, and his rifle ; and after he had erected 
 his own dwelling, the mill and blacksmith's shop rose 
 up. Lands were brought into cultivation, the mecha- 
 nic arts flourished ; and when the colony became large 
 enough and rich enough to support a pastor, a church 
 was built. For the results of the two modes of coloni- 
 zation, compare Texas, New Mexico, California, So- 
 nora, and Chihuahua, before the three first became 
 annexed to the United States, and the States of Ohio, 
 Indiana, Illinois, and Michigan. The latter had attain- 
 ed more wealth, more population and importance, and 
 had done quite as much towards promoting Christianity 
 in the first ten years after their settlement, as the 
 former States had in two centuries. 
 
 Near by is a fertile valley, a very small portion of 
 which is now tilled : although from appearances, it was 
 all formerly irrigated and under cultivation. I tried 
 in vain to purchase vegetables. A more thoroughly 
 lazy set of people, I never saw. The Pimo and Coco- 
 Maricopa Indians of the Gila, are infinitely superior to 
 them. Whether a proximity to the church and the 
 worthless half-civilized Mexicans has reduced them to 
 this state of indolence and poverty, I know not ; but 
 if so, they would better have remained in their native 
 valleys, and never seen the faces of white men. 
 
 Leaving the village, we rode on a mile further, and 
 stopped in a fine grove of large mezquit trees near the 
 river, where there was plenty of grass. 
 
 We remained here until 3 o'clock, p. m., when we 
 resumed our journey along the valley as before, 
 
SANTA CRUZ. 301 
 
 through, a forest of mezquit trees, but had not pro- 
 ceeded more than an hour before it began to rain in 
 torrents, the wind blowing directly in our faces. Be- 
 lieving the shower would soon pass over, I turned my 
 wagon round and stopped. Those on horseback drew 
 up under trees ; but there was little shelter from them, 
 so violently did the rain pour down. After an hour's 
 delay, we pushed on. The road was now exceedingly 
 muddy, the ravines and gullies were filled with water, 
 and our progress was very slow. After journeying 
 eight miles, making seventeen in all since morning, 
 and being much in advance of the train, I deemed it 
 prudent to stop. The wagons would not probably get 
 in before night, after which, it would be unsafe to tra- 
 vel, owing to the washing of the road by the rains ; 
 for we had in many places to avoid it, and force our 
 way through the woods. 
 
 The clouds indicated more rain ; so I set to work 
 and had a good fire in readiness for my cook when he 
 should arrive. Those who were with me followed my 
 example, and we soon had several large fires blazing, 
 and a good stock of wood in. 
 
 As soon as the train got in, all hands set to work to 
 pitch the tents, and take the necessary precautions to 
 keep them in their places before the storm should be 
 upon us. Guys were fixed to all the tents, which were 
 further supported by being attached to the wagons ; 
 for the ground was so soft that the pins would not 
 hold. Trenches were dug around each one, to keep 
 it dry as possible ; and we were quite ready for it, 
 when the rain again began to fall. After a hearty 
 supper, we retired to rest; but it was only to be routed 
 
302 CASAS GRA.NDES TO 
 
 out again, for the storm soon increased in violence, 
 and every moment we expected our frail coverings 
 would be torn to shreds or blown down. And, in 
 fact, notwithstanding our efforts to make them more 
 secure, one of the tents was hurled from its fastenings 
 and blown more than a hundred yards before it was 
 arrested. 
 
 July 20th. The rain having continued the whole 
 night, we were much delayed in getting off this morn- 
 ing. The whole country was drenched with water, 
 and the road almost impassable for our heavily -loaded 
 wagons. After a hard journey of eighteen miles, we 
 stopped at the banks of the river ; and strange as it 
 may appear, notwithstanding all the rain that had 
 fallen, the river, such is the uncertainty of the streams 
 in this country, was quite dry. Fortunately, in some 
 cavities in the river's bed we found water enough for 
 our present wants. 
 
 Our march was a straggling one to-day, as some of the 
 teams could not keep up. My baggage wagon in par- 
 ticular, which also contained my tent and cooking 
 utensils, did not get in until after dark. One of the 
 mules broke down to-day, and was taken out of the 
 team. Others showed signs of great exhaustion, from 
 the heaviness of the road and the long march. 
 
 July 21st. It having rained most of the night, and 
 every thing being wet, we were unable to leave before 
 nine o'clock. After journeying over a muddy road 
 for nine miles, we reached Tubac, another presidio or 
 garrison, consisting of a collection of dilapidated build- 
 ings and huts, about' half of which were tenantless, and 
 an equally ruinous church. Captain Gomez, who com- 
 
SANTA CRUZ. 303 
 
 manded at Fronteras, at the time of my visit there 
 with Colonel Craig in May, 1851, was in command 
 here, and came out to meet us as we passed through 
 the plaza. 
 
 To our infinite astonishment and regret, we learned 
 that Senorita Inez Gonzales, the Mexican girl whom 
 we had liberated from captivity, and restored to her 
 parents at Santa Cruz in September, was living at this 
 place with the officer just named. Captain G. himself, 
 although acquainted with all the circumstances of her 
 restoration, did not mention her name to me ; but 
 having been informed of the fact from others, I asked 
 him if she was at his quarters. He replied that she 
 was, but was quite ill, and furthermore that she was 
 about to return with her mother to Santa Cruz. On 
 telling him that I must see her, he invited me into his 
 house, whither I was accompanied by several gentle- 
 men of the Commission. The poor girl seemed very 
 glad to see us. She was not ill, but evidently felt 
 under some restraint, as the Captain remained dur- 
 ing the interview. She seemed very sad and un- ■ 
 happy ; and when asked if she would accompany 
 us back to the States, as we had before invited 
 her, she knew not what to say, and, fearing to give 
 offence to her new captor, looked to him for a reply. 
 The interview was a very unsatisfactory one, and we 
 were all quite reluctant to leave her in such a position ; 
 but Captain Gomez assured us she would return home 
 with her mother, who was then in Tubac. The next 
 day we accordingly took leave, expecting that the 
 party she accompanied would overtake us. 
 
 In a book of travels in a strange country, one is 
 
304 CASAS GRANDES TO 
 
 expected to describe every town he visits ; but as for 
 this God- forsaken place, when I have said that it con- 
 tains a few dilapidated buildings, and an old church, 
 with a miserable population, I have said about all. It 
 was established as a presidio almost a century and a 
 half ago, and usually maintained a population of four 
 hundred souls. It was abandoned a year before our 
 arrival, but had since been repopulated, and might 
 have comprised at the time of our visit a hundred 
 souls. The bottom-lands near it, along the Santa Cruz 
 River, are quite rich, and can be made to produce the 
 same grain, fruit, and vegetables as at Tucson. At the 
 rancho of Calabasa, in the same district, is a gold 
 mine which was once productive, but the fear of the 
 Apaches led to its abandonment. 
 
 As an example of the uncertainty of crops from 
 artificial irrigation in this country, I will mention a 
 circumstance which occurred at Tubac. 
 
 The preceding fall, after the place had been again 
 occupied, a party of Mormons in passing through on 
 their way to California was induced to stop there by 
 the representations of the Comandante. He offered 
 them lands in the rich valley, where acequias were 
 already dug, if they would remain and cultivate it ; 
 assuring them that they would find a ready market 
 for all the corn, wheat, and vegetables they could 
 raise, from the troops and from passing emigrants. 
 The offer was so good, and the prospects so flattering, 
 that they consented to remain. They therefore set to 
 work, and ploughed and sowed their lands, in which they 
 expended all their means, anticipating an abundant 
 harvest. But the spring and summer came without 
 
SANTA CRUZ. 305 
 
 rain : the river dried up ; their fields could not be 
 irrigated ; and their labor, time, and money were lost. 
 They abandoned the place, and, although reduced to 
 the greatest extremities, succeeded in reaching Santa 
 Isabel, in California, where we fell in with them. 
 
 We had got but a mile from Tubac, when one of 
 the wagons broke down and became a total wreck. 
 We were travelling on level ground at the time, and 
 the accident was wholly unexpected. On examina- 
 tion, it was found that the rim and sjSokes of one of 
 the wheels had become loose, and giving way simul- 
 taneously, the wheel was crushed. This let the axle- 
 tree down with such force as to break off the end. A 
 new fore-wheel and axle-tree were now necessary, to- 
 gether with some blacksmith's work, without which 
 the wagon would be useless. I accordingly sent to 
 Captain Gomez, to learn if he could render us any aid ; 
 but to my regret he sent me word that there was not a 
 mechanic in the town, nor tools of any description. 
 As there was no prospect of moving further until some 
 change was made in our transportation, and perhaps 
 some articles left, I gave orders to pitch the tents and 
 turn out the mules, there being plenty of grass and 
 wood near, with the Santa Cruz River, now full of 
 water, within a hundred yards of us. 
 
 In the midst of our dilemma, and while we were 
 pondering what to do, a train of some twelve or fifteen 
 emigrant wagons hove in sight, and in a few minutes 
 reached our camp. It was a pleasant event to meet a 
 party from home once more ; although they had no 
 news to tell us, as they had left their homes in Arkan- 
 sas in May, and had now been nearly three months on 
 
 VOL. II. — 20 
 
306 CAS AS GR ANDES TO 
 
 their journey. The party consisted of forty persons, 
 including men and women. Their wagons were all 
 drawn by oxen, six of which were attached to each. 
 As before, the chief inquiries were about the state of 
 the road, the grass and water, and lastly the Indians. 
 We learnt from them that there had been abundant 
 rains on their route, and that the grass was excellent, 
 and water abundant. This was cheering news to us, 
 &nd better than we could give in return. 
 
 On conversing with the leader of the party, I found 
 him disposed to sell one of his wagons ; and after some 
 parleying we agreed upon the terms, which were two 
 hundred dollars. The bargain was no sooner made 
 than the wagon was empted of its contents, consisting 
 of baggage and old furniture, and was taken posses- 
 sion of by us. It was a large, strong, and well made 
 wagon, and bore the name of "ark," painted upon its 
 side in large letters. It required some changes to 
 adapt it to mules, which we at once set about making. 
 In the mean time Mr. Leroux went to the town to try 
 and sell the broken wagon, which only lacked an axle 
 and wheel to be as good as ever. But the people 
 knew that we must leave it behind us, and they de- 
 clined to take it at any price. We accordingly stripped 
 it of its tongue, coupling-pole, hounds, iron bolts, and 
 nuts, broke up one of the wheels for tent-pins, and 
 abandoned the remainder. 
 
 July TLd. We did not get the " ark'' ready until 
 noon, when we resumed our journey. The weather 
 was now so moderate that we could travel during the 
 day, which was a great relief to us. The road was 
 : good during this day's journey, and the new wheel 
 
SANTA CRUZ. 307 
 
 behaved very well. The valley continued about half 
 a mile wide, thickly covered with mezquit trees of 
 a large size. The bottom-lands resembled meadows, 
 being covered with luxuriant grass, and but few trees. 
 The immediate banks of the river, which is here as 
 diminutive as near Tucson, are lined with cotton- 
 wood trees of a gigantic size, resembling our largest 
 elms. In some places there are large groves of these 
 trees, rendering this part of the valley the most pic- 
 turesque and beautiful we had seen. At four o'clock, 
 we reached one of these groves on the river's bank, 
 where we encamped. 
 
 A mile before reaching camp, we passed the 
 ruins of a large rancho known as Calabasa ; for every 
 large rancho or hacienda has its name and place on the 
 map. Even after the establishment has been aban- 
 doned, and its walls have crumbled to the ground, the 
 name remains. This custom is prevalent throughout 
 northern Mexico. Along the valley of the Rio Grande 
 and in New Mexico are a host of names on the map 
 applied to ranchos, and sometimes to places where 
 neither villages nor ranchos now exist. The same 
 may be said of Sonora and Chihuahua, and where 
 there were no settlements locations were given. A 
 stranger on looking at one of these maps would ima- 
 gine the country thickly settled, whereas there might 
 not be a village, rancho, or even a single inhabitant, 
 where he is treated to a long list of names, including 
 half the saints in the calendar, all the apostles, and the 
 Holy Lady of Guadalupe into the bargain. 
 
 This Calabasa, I was told by Leroux, was a thriv- 
 ing establishment when he visited it twenty years ago. 
 
308 CASAS GRANDES TO 
 
 A large tract of land was then under cultivation, and 
 herds of cattle were reared on the adjacent hills. But 
 the stream did not furnish a sufficient quantity of water 
 to irrigate it, without cutting off entirely the towns of 
 Tubac and Tucson; and consequently it was aban- 
 doned. This is the difficulty with these small water- 
 courses ; for having few or no tributaries to keep up 
 the supply, as our northern streams have, and fre- 
 quently running a course of several hundred miles 
 before they terminate, their water cannot be drawn 
 off without destroying the crops below them, and even 
 depriving the people and animals of water to drink. 
 
 I ascended one of the low hills here, about two 
 hundred feet in height, which approached within one 
 hundred and fifty yards of the river. This range 
 crosses the stream, and runs far to the south on the 
 western side. From these hills the plateau extends 
 some ten or fiften miles on both sides, when it strikes 
 the mountain ranges. On the east is the mountain 
 called Santa Rita, the highest within a hundred miles : 
 in fact it is higher than any we had passed since leav- 
 ing the Gila; and on its opposite side, where I was in 
 September last, there is none of so great an altitude 
 for one hundred and fifty miles. From the point 
 where I stood, I could see the mountain at the base 
 of which my party was lost last year in trying to reach 
 Santa Cruz. This place was directly east of us, about 
 twelve or fifteen miles distant. 
 
 During our journey to-day, some five or six miles 
 back, I noticed the ruins of Tumacacori. Its beauti- 
 ful and picturesque church showed finely among the 
 thick grove of trees by which it is inclosed. The 
 
SANTA CRUZ. 309 
 
 church is a mile from the road ; and supposing that 
 we should pass it, I made no inquiries, but kept on, 
 until I got too far to return. It seems that there was 
 a path leading to it, which Mr. Pratt and some of the 
 horsemen took, but which I did not observe. Mr. P. 
 took a sketch of it. Tumacacori was formerly a mis- 
 sion of note. It was connected with the presidio of 
 Tubac, and had been lately abandoned in consequence 
 of the incursions of the Apaches. 
 
 Passed to-day two parties of emigrants on their way 
 to California. They each had from twelve to fifteen 
 wagons, all drawn by oxen, and were from the State 
 of Arkansas. Numerous questions were asked, as on 
 former occasions, about grass, water, and the Indians. 
 We learnt from these people that there were many 
 parties of emigrants behind, and that we should pro- 
 bably fall in with them every day. The emigrants 
 from Arkansas and Texas all take the southern route, 
 by way of El Paso ; while those from the more northern 
 States go by way of Independence and the Great Salt 
 Lake. 
 
 A party of Mexican soldiers from Tucson overtook 
 and passed us after we had encamped, carrying in a 
 palanquin their Colonel, who was ill with a fever. As 
 there was no medical attendant at the place, they were 
 taking him to Arispe. 
 
 Soon after, a second party of soldiers stopped and 
 encamped near us, probably for the sake of security 
 against the Apaches ; for they feel perfectly safe when 
 under the wing of a party of well-armed Americans. 
 This valley is a favorite haunt of these freebooters ; 
 and although we saw none, there is no doubt but they 
 
310 CASAS GR ANDES TO 
 
 both saw and followed us. They keep to the hills near 
 by, where they can overlook the road, and are sure to 
 pounce upon any small and unprotected party of tra- 
 vellers ; for not a week passes without depredations 
 and murders. 
 
 July 2 3d The valley to-day was more contracted, 
 owing to the proximity of the hills, which in many 
 cases reached the stream, compelling us to cross them. 
 The country grew more picturesque and diversified, 
 exhibiting alternate valleys and gentle hills. In the 
 former were groups of large walnut-trees, whose deep 
 green foliage presented a striking contrast with the 
 lighter and yellowish hue of the cotton-woods, and the 
 brighter green of the willows. The intermediate 
 spaces between the hills and the stream exhibited a 
 luxuriant growth of grass. But it must be remem- 
 bered that the enchanting aspect which every thing 
 now wore in this valley does not continue. It was 
 the rainy season, when vegetation presents its most 
 attractive garb. In a few weeks the daily showers 
 would cease, and the parching sun would dry up every 
 thing but the cacti, which do not seem to be bene- 
 fited by rain, and the large trees of the valley, which 
 find moisture enough in the earth to sustain them until 
 the rainy season again comes round. The grass then 
 withers and dies, and the stream furnishes barely 
 water enough to supply the immediate wants of the 
 people. 
 
 Passed a party of emigrants with nine wagons, 
 each drawn by ten oxen. The men were hardy and 
 good-looking, being just such as are wanted in Califor- 
 nia. This train, as well as the others we had met, 
 
SANTA CRUZ. 311 
 
 had more oxen than were required to draw the 
 wagons ; but thfs owners were taking them to market 
 as beef cattle, and found it much easier to yoke them 
 to; their wagons than to drive them loose. Some of 
 these wagons drawn by five yoke of cattle did not 
 contain more than five hundred pounds weight, while 
 the capacity of the team would suffice for five or six 
 thousand pounds. 
 
 At three o'clock, we encamped in a fine grove of 
 trees near the river, having travelled twenty miles. A 
 heavy rain set in just before we stopped, attended 
 with thunder and lightning. 
 
 July lith. Got an early start this morning. The 
 valley grew still more contracted ; in fact for miles 
 there cannot be said to be any valley, the stream sim- 
 ply winding its way among the hills. Eight miles 
 brought us to the old rancho of San Lazaro, where we 
 found an encampment of fifty or sixty emigrants from 
 Arkansas, bound for the land of gold. 
 
 Before these people knew who we were, they ex- 
 pressed much surprise at seeing a large and well-or- 
 ganized party going eastward ; some exclaiming, when 
 they saw we were Americans, "Holloa, strangers, 
 haven't you mistaken the road — you're going the 
 wrong way — this is the way to Californy!" Similar 
 expressions were made by almost every party we met ; 
 but when they found we had been to California, and 
 could give them some information about it, there was 
 no end to their inquiries. All seemed to have their 
 thoughts upon gold ; for they invariably asked whe- 
 ther the yield continued as great as at first, what we 
 thought of its holding out, etc., etc. 
 
312 CASAS GRANDES TO 
 
 Several of this party were sick, particularly women 
 and children. On hearing this, I stopped to give Dr. 
 Webb an opportunity to visit and prescribe for them. 
 The Doctor had done the same for other parties which 
 we found were unprovided with medicines, or any of 
 the comforts required in their condition. The con- 
 stant rains they had been exposed to, with no protec- 
 tion but their wagons,- had caused much sickness 
 among them ; and it was pitiful to see these poor ema- 
 ciated and suffering creatures lying beneath the trees, 
 resting a day or two, until they could recover strength 
 enough to proceed. 
 
 In my former journey through Sonora, we stopped 
 at San Lazaro, a large deserted hacienda, with ex- 
 tensive orchards and fertile grounds around it. Leav- 
 ing this, we kept along up the stream, over a rough 
 road, for nine miles, and reached Santa Cruz at eleven 
 o'clock. Travelled distance to-day, seventeen miles. 
 
 I sent the train and party a mile beyond the vil- 
 lage, to encamp where there was plenty of grass, and 
 where the men would be away from the contaminations 
 of a low Mexican population, miserable, filthy, and 
 poor as this was. 
 
 I called on our old friend, Padre Bernardino Pa- 
 checo, and took breakfast with him. He had much to 
 relate to us that had transpired since our last visit. 
 The Apaches, he told us, had made several attacks 
 on the people within half a mile of the town, and had 
 carried off many of their mules and cattle, and mur- 
 dered five of the inhabitants. The last attack was 
 made two weeks before our arrival, when they were 
 pursued by a party of soldiers, in which a Polish officer 
 
SANTA CRUZ. 313 
 
 in the Mexican service was shot by a rifle ball in his 
 arm, from which wound he was then suffering severe- 
 ly. We also learned that the three men who joined 
 us at Santa Isabel, California, and who left us on the 
 desert at the time Colonel Craig was killed, had 
 reached here about the time of the affray with the 
 Indians. They took part in it, and one of them re- 
 ceived a wound. 
 
 After a couple of hours spent in the town, I rode 
 forward to our camp, where the tents and wagons had 
 been arranged in a square, for the better protection of 
 the men and animals in case of an attack from the 
 Indians, who, we were told, were constantly prowling 
 about the neighborhood, and watching an opportunity 
 to surprise any party whom they thought unprepared, 
 or to run off any animals not sufficiently guarded. 
 
314 SANTA CRUZ TO 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIY. 
 
 SANTA CRUZ TO THE PRESIDIO OF JANOS. 
 
 Shoeing mules and repairing wagons at Santa Cruz — Standing guard — 
 Sad fate of Inez Gonzales — Sickness of the town — Boldness of the Apa- 
 ches and their constant inroads — "Wretched state of the people — Leave 
 Santa Cruz — Country assumes a new aspect — Eio San Pedro — Enter 
 the mountains — Agua Prieta — Prepare for a fight — False alarm — Meet 
 Col. Garcia with Mexican troops — Enter Guadalupe Pass — "Wagon upset 
 — Description of the country — A better route suggested — Take the 
 Janos road — More emigrants, and their encounter with a bear — Two 
 human bodies found — Open country — Eeach Janos. 
 
 July 25th. At Santa Cruz. Since leaving Fort Yuma, 
 we had had no opportunity to complete the repairs on 
 the wagons, some of which were much injured and had 
 been temporarily patched up with raw hide or other- 
 wise. Besides the iron work to be done on these, 
 many of the mules required shoeing. It was necessary, 
 therefore, that this work should be done here, as we 
 should have no other opportunity until we reached the 
 frontier towns of Janos or Carrelitos in the State of 
 Chihuahua, still nearly two hundred and fifty miles 
 distant. The Guadalupe Pass, which we had twice 
 been through, and with whose difficulties we were 
 well acquainted, was yet before us, besides some very 
 rocky mountain ridges. I therefore deemed it advisa- 
 
THE PRESIDIO OF JANOS. 315 
 
 ble to shoe the fore feet of all the team mules, leaving 
 the pack and riding mules, with few exceptions, to go 
 as they were. It would have been well to shoe them 
 all ; but the difficulties in the way of getting any 
 thing done compelled me to dispense with such work 
 as was not absolutely necessary. 
 
 There was a blacksmith's shop in the village, a 
 bellows, and an anvil, but very indifferent tools. Then 
 there was no charcoal, and no shoes or nails. The first 
 step, therefore, was to send three or four men with 
 pack -mules to the mountains for wood, and several 
 others to guard them, and prevent a surprise by the 
 Apaches. This obtained, we had to burn it into char- 
 coal ; and then three of our most ingenious men were 
 dispatched to the blacksmith's shop, to assist in forg- 
 ing the shoes and nails, and in shoeing the animals. 
 
 I took my turn last night, for the second time, in 
 that most disagreeable of all our duties, standing guard. 
 The arrangements which we made before starting from 
 the Pimo villages, where our escort left us, were, that 
 two of the men should stand guard for two hours, 
 commencing at 8 o'clock, and that this guard should be 
 relieved every two hours until the Camp was called in 
 the morning, and the mules turned out to feed. But 
 I was unwilling to trust to all the men, fearing that due 
 diligence would not be observed. The officers there- 
 fore agreed, without exception, to take their turn ; 
 one to stand every night till 12 o'clock, and another 
 from that hour till the morning. This was an arduous 
 duty ; but our safety absolutely required it. To rise 
 before day and travel until three or four o'clock in the 
 afternoon, and then stand guard half the night, was a 
 
316 SANTA CRUZ TO 
 
 duty that we all felt severely, and each dreaded the 
 night when his turn came. Last night was a very bad 
 one, in fact, the worst we had experienced during our 
 journey (the march across the Tucson desert always 
 excepted), as it was exceedingly dark, and the rain 
 came down in torrents. I kept a light burning in my 
 tent the whole night, and made my rounds with a lan- 
 tern. The strict watch kept by us during the march, 
 no doubt saved us from robbery ; and, if there had 
 been nothing to fear from the Indians, it was a safe- 
 guard against the Mexicans, who are as great thieves 
 as the Apaches. We had suffered much from theft in 
 our last visit to Santa Cruz, and took good care that 
 this pilfering should not be repeated. 
 
 In the afternoon I called on Padre Pacheco with 
 Dr. Webb, to make inquiries about Inez Gonzales. The 
 result was very unsatisfactory. He manifested an in- 
 terest in the welfare of the poor child, but said that he 
 had no control over her or her family, and that his in- 
 fluence or exertions would avail nothing against the 
 plans or the doings of the military officers. Their 
 power was supreme, particularly in an outpost like 
 this. From all the information I could gather from 
 the Padre, it was evident that unfair means had been 
 resorted to by Captain Gomez ; first, in getting her 
 away from her home under some pretence, and secondly, 
 in depriving her of her liberty, and preventing her 
 return with her mother to Santa Cruz. I have not 
 before observed that the mother overtook us the day 
 after leaving Tubac, and accompanied our train to her 
 now desolate home. 
 
 Believing that Governor Cubillas of Sonora, a gen- 
 
THE PRESIDIO OF JAN OS. 317 
 
 tleman of high character and fine feelings, with whom 
 I became acquainted at Ures, would interest himself 
 for his young countrywoman, I addressed him a letter 
 at length, requesting his interference on her behalf. 
 
 Dr. Webb was called upon to-day to visit many 
 sick families — also the Polish officer who had been 
 wounded in the fight with the Apaches, and Captain 
 Murphy, the officer in command at this place. The 
 town appeared to be very sickly, fevers being the pre- 
 vailing form of disease. Of the troops here, which 
 numbered a hundred men, thirty were disabled by 
 illness. The prevalence of fevers arises from the prox- 
 imity of a large marsh between here and San Lazaro. 
 
 In walking into town, I met parties of the inhabit- 
 ants promenading. The women were neatly dressed, 
 mostly in white, with dark rebosos over their heads ; 
 while the men who accompanied them were armed 
 with muskets or lances, without which they never ven- 
 ture beyond the walls. Even at the distance of our 
 camp, which was within a mile of the town, our visitors 
 were invariably armed. So with those immediately 
 under the walls tending cattle, or in the fields plough- 
 ing, all had their fire-arms at hand. Such is the state 
 of things in this place. Of course, agriculture is neg- 
 lected, and the people, being confined to that portion 
 of the valley near the town, are able to raise barely 
 enough for their own subsistence. 
 
 On one occasion last winter, a party of Apaches 
 actually entered the town during the day, and drove 
 off a number of mules. These robbers were within 
 gun-shot of the garrison, from which they were per- 
 ceived by a sentinel. Yet such was the terror they 
 
318 SANTA CRUZ TO 
 
 inspired, that no attempts were made, either by the 
 military or the inhabitants, to repel them or rescue the 
 animals. Outside the walls were a number of cattle. 
 These the robbers did not think proper to take, as they 
 could not keep up with the mules. They therefore 
 lanced them where they stood; and their bleached bones 
 still remain under the walls, within a stone's throw of 
 the dwellings, as testimonials of Mexican cowardice. 
 
 I cannot conceive what object there is in support- 
 ing this miserable population of less than two hundred 
 souls, in an outpost where they are liable to the con- 
 stant attacks and depredations of savages. The adja- 
 cent valley is not occupied, although one of the finest 
 in the State. Better would it be for the government 
 to take the whole population, not only of Santa Cruz, 
 but also of Tubac and Tucson, remove them to the 
 central parts of the State, and provide them with 
 other land of equal value. As there are tracts equally 
 good which are at present unoccupied, the govern- 
 ment would be savers by this arrangement. The ex- 
 pense of maintaining a battalion of five hundred troops 
 in this quarter for two years, is greater than would be 
 the cost of removing the whole population in question. 
 If this is not practicable, then the government should 
 encourage emigration to these valleys, and enable the 
 people to protect themselves. It is quite possible, and 
 I think it probable, that the town of Santa Cruz will be 
 eventually abandoned by the present miserable remains 
 of its inhabitants ; they will be compelled to this step 
 to save themselves from starvation, or from being 
 finally cut off by their more brave and warlike enemies. 
 
 July 26^. This day our teamsters and arrieros 
 
THE PRESIDIO OF JANOS. 319 
 
 took advantage of our delay here, to get drunk, and 
 make a serious disturbance in the village. The author- 
 ities preferred a complaint against Jesus Lopez, a 
 Mexican in the employ of the Commission, for ill treat- 
 ment of a respectable woman, into whose house he 
 unceremoniously entered and then beat her severely. 
 They asked if I would punish him, or would allow 
 them to do so. I sent word, in reply, that while we 
 were in Mexico, we were amenable to its laws- — that 
 this man knew them, and if he had transgressed them, 
 he must suffer the consequences. I afterwards heard 
 that he was fined and imprisoned. He was the same 
 man who killed the Apache at the Copper Mines, and 
 had given me trouble at every settlement where we 
 had stopped. I was therefore glad to get rid of him, 
 and found no difficulty in filling his place. In fact, had 
 I permitted them, half the population would have 
 availed themselves of the opportunity that presented, 
 to get away, it mattered not where to. 
 
 One of Lieut. Whipple 's teamsters also got drunk 
 here, drew his pistol on the Padre, and abused several 
 others. This man was likewise imprisoned, but was 
 liberated at the Lieutenant's request. To keep the 
 men in camp was impossible. They would creep out 
 at night ; and if sent to the village on an errand, they 
 would get drunk and kick up a row. Yet some of 
 these very men were the best and most reliable in my 
 employ, when on the march, and away from the con- 
 taminations of a low Mexiqan town. 
 
 The shoeing progressed slowly, it taking longer to 
 make a nail than an American blacksmith would require 
 to shoe an animal. 
 
320 SANTA CRUZ TO 
 
 Padre Pacheco and another gentleman dined with 
 me to-day. They came armed with swords and pistols ; 
 and I afterwards perceived that a deputation from the 
 village, a portion of the good pastor's flock, fearful 
 that he might be harmed, had followed him with their 
 muskets, and waited outside my tent until he should 
 return. The Padre brought me a bottle of wine, and 
 another of excellent vinegar, which was very accept- 
 able, together with a few vegetables ; in return for 
 which, we gave him a few articles that he could not 
 obtain here. 
 
 Dr. Webb was engaged the whole day in gratui- 
 tously attending upon the sick. In the afternoon, a 
 heavy rain set in. 
 
 July 21th. A large party of emigrants from Arkan- 
 sas, via El Paso, arrived just before night, and encamp- 
 ed near us. They had twenty wagons, each drawn by 
 five yoke of oxen. Soon after their arrival, they applied 
 to me for flour. I told them I had barely sufficient to 
 take us to El Paso, and directed them to apply to a mill 
 in the town where it was for sale. I heard afterwards 
 that they made a demand on the Padre for provisions ; 
 and that they treated him rudely, sitting down without 
 ceremony in the little piazza at his door, where they 
 commenced playing cards with each other, and annoyed 
 him exceedingly by their boisterous manner and inso- 
 lence. 
 
 July 2Sth. Our repairs and shoeing being completed, 
 we resumed our journey ea^ly this morning. Many of 
 the inhabitants earnestly begged to be employed or to 
 be permitted to accompany us, offering to aid us in any 
 way in their power, without compensation. Feeling 
 
THE PRESIDIO OF JANOS. 321 
 
 pity for the poor creatures, I told several that they 
 might accompany the train, if they would furnish their 
 own provisions and transportation. Four of them fol- 
 lowed us on foot ; and I afterwards found that the 
 Mexican arrieros, and the cooks, kept them at work 
 when in camp in bringing wood and water, as well as 
 in herding the mules, and gave them their food for so 
 doing. 
 
 Hearing from the emigrants who arrived last even- 
 ing, that the road taken by them from the San Pedro 
 river was very bad for loaded wagons, I determined 
 to avoid it by following a path little known, which was 
 some ten miles further. Instead, therefore, of passing 
 directly over the hills on leaving the valley, we kept 
 on three miles to the termination of these hills, and 
 then took an easterly, though very tortuous course, 
 keeping most of the way in valleys, and avoiding the 
 mountains altogether. As we passed out of the valley, 
 I observed a long train of wagons winding over the 
 hills on the other road, accompanied by many horse- 
 men. This was an emigrating party, which we had 
 been told we should meet ; but we were not near 
 enough to speak with them. 
 
 After winding through these valleys for four miles, 
 we ascended to the plateau, to which we kept for six 
 or eight miles over a smooth gravelly plain, without a 
 tree or a bush. The valleys below were studded with 
 small oaks, and covered with luxuriant grass ; in fact, 
 I was told at Santa Cruz, that in former years large 
 herds of cattle were raised here. The country seems 
 admirably adapted for the purpose, and in other hands, 
 or when the Apache robbers are exterminated, will 
 
 VOL. II. 21 
 
322 SANTA CRUZ TO 
 
 again become a grazing 1 country. Not a head was now 
 to be seen ; nor is there another settlement, a single 
 habitation, or a spot of cultivated ground between 
 Santa Cruz and Janos in the direction we were travel- 
 ling. At two o'clock the rain began to fall in torrents ; 
 and soon after, seeing a small basin of water near a 
 grove of large walnut trees, we stopped and encamped, 
 having travelled fifteen miles. 
 
 This was the first day, since leaving the valleys of 
 California, that we had met with oak groves and broad 
 pastures. The whole country here assumed a new 
 aspect, resembling the hills and valleys of Vermont or 
 New Hampshire, rather than Mexico. Involuntarily 
 we looked at the turn of every hill, as we wound 
 through the valleys, to meet with farm houses, culti- 
 vated fields, herds of cattle, and an agricultural popu- 
 lation ; but all was silent as the grave. An occasional 
 wolf sneaked across our path, or a herd of antelope 
 bounded over the plain, reminding us that we were far 
 from all human habitations. 
 
 July 29th. The road or path we travelled yester- 
 day was very faint, and could no longer be traced. 
 Our only course, therefore, was to follow the valley, 
 which we knew must lead to the San Pedro. After 
 keeping along it for three or four miles, Leroux set off 
 over the hills, to see if he could find any trail. He at 
 length found one, which he recommended us to take ; 
 as following the valley might lead us to some canon, 
 and thus involve us in difficulties. We therefore alter- 
 ed our course from east to south, which we kept for 
 four miles, and then entered the old road. Near this, 
 we met two suspicious looking characters with guns, 
 
THE PRESIDIO OF JANOS. 323 
 
 an unusual event in these regions. We first discovered 
 them at a distance, and on applying our spy-glasses, 
 were still more puzzled, as they resembled Americans. 
 On coming up, they proved to belong to a party of 
 emigrants ahead, which they had left some hours before 
 in search of deer or other game. They seemed as 
 much surprised as ourselves at the meeting, and had 
 many questions to ask. Their party was short of pro- 
 visions, about which they felt more anxiety than about 
 the state of the road or the grass. 
 
 After striking the road, our course was again due 
 east through a fine valley watered by a small stream ; 
 the western tributary or source of the San Pedro. We 
 followed this valley for about six miles, and met a train 
 of twenty or twenty-five ox -teams, with emigrants for 
 California. We stopped a few minutes to exchange 
 news with them, as well as to ask sundry questions 
 about the state of the road, grass, water, and Indians ; 
 the result of which was more satisfactory to us than to 
 them. 
 
 On the south side* of the valley we were traversing, 
 were bold rocky cliffs, about a hundred feet high ; 
 while on the opposite side, it was bounded by low hills 
 of gravel. The valley was covered with grass, but not 
 a tree or shrub was visible. We crossed the stream 
 over a rocky ledge, where there was but a few inches 
 of water. Shortly before reaching it, we passed on 
 our right the ruins of a village, which appeared to 
 have been long deserted. Amid these ruins, on the 
 summit of a hill, there seemed to have been a fortifi- 
 cation. We encamped directly by the crossing near 
 the base of a hill, where there were traces of previous 
 
324 SANTA CRUZ TO 
 
 encampments. We estimated the distance travelled 
 to-day at fourteen miles, making altogether, by the 
 route we had come, twenty-nine miles from Santa 
 Cruz ; while the usually travelled road does not exceed 
 eighteen. Yet I would advise all travellers- with 
 wagons to turn to the right after crossing the San Pe- 
 dro, and take our route, thereby avoiding one of the 
 worst mountain passes in the whole distance to Califor- 
 nia. With pack-mules, the shorter route should of 
 course have the preference. 
 
 July 30th. Passing round the base of the hill near 
 our camp, we ascended the plateau, and then pursued 
 a course due east, over a plain as level as a floor, and 
 without a tree or shrub, covered with short grass that 
 had sprung up since the rains. Five miles further, we 
 again descended into a valley or bottom, through 
 which ran a small stream, where we met another party 
 of emigrants. After keeping the bottom for five miles, 
 we reached a swampy place, caused by a recent accu- 
 mulation of waters from the heavy rains. In the midst 
 of this .-was a stream, or rather, I think, a gully, filled 
 with water, which was running very rapidly. It was 
 from two to three feet deep, and full of deeper holes, 
 so that even the horsemen met with some difficulty in 
 crossing. Fearing that we should break the tongues 
 of our wagons in plunging down so abrupt and short a 
 bank, the picks and spades were got out and both 
 banks cut down ; we then all got over in safety. 
 
 Crossing this boggy plain, our course continued 
 eastward, through a bottom, for about six miles, the 
 plateau bounding the valley on both sides. In the 
 afternoon we began to ascend gradually through the 
 
THE PRESIDIO OF JANOS. 325 
 
 same valley, and at half-past three encamped near a 
 stream, where the water merely stood in holes. It 
 was very good, though, from appearance, not perma- 
 nent. Near us was a large cotton-wood tree, the only 
 one to be seen ; so that it was with difficulty we could 
 find scraps of wood enough to cook our dinner. 
 
 From our camp we could see the mountain near 
 Santa Cruz bearing due west. The rain set in before 
 night, and continued several hours ; and as we were in 
 a very exposed situation, it was necessary to put extra 
 fastenings to the tents. Distance travelled to-day, fif- 
 teen miles. 
 
 July ZYst. Every thing was drenched with rain, 
 which prevented an early start. We still kept due 
 east, through an open defile in a mountain range, 
 which ran north and south, with an easy and gradual 
 ascent. On both sides were conical hills from three 
 to four hundred feet in height, detached from the 
 adjacent mountains, and destitute of trees and shrub- 
 bery. In fact, scarcely a tree or bush had been seen 
 since we left the vicinity of Santa Cruz. As the coun- 
 try continued bare to day, the men picked up every 
 fragment of wood or brush we passed, and threw it into 
 the wagons. It would be prudent for all parties tra- 
 velling this country to provide themselves with wood 
 whenever an opportunity offers, and always keep 
 on hand a supply for three days. We were told by 
 all the emigrants we had passed, that their greatest 
 difficulty had been to procure fuel ; and they cautioned 
 us to secure it when we could, and not wait until we 
 encamped. 
 
 At two o'clock the rain began to fall ; but as there 
 
326 SANTA CRUZ TO 
 
 was no water to be seen, we were reluctantly compel- 
 led to keep on until near night, when we reached a 
 stream, called by Leroux " Ash Creek," where we en- 
 camped. He said it was the same place where Colonel 
 Cooke stopped with his battalion in 1846, and from 
 which several parties were sent out in search of water, 
 as it was then dry. The stream is so called from the 
 ash trees which grew near it, but which have now 
 nearly disappeared. It is the toughest and best wood 
 for repairing wagons ; and passing trains have stopped 
 here to cut new tongues, and make other repairs. Dis- 
 tance travelled, twenty miles. 
 
 August 1st. Our general course was still east, 
 through defiles in the mountain's ridge we were then 
 crossing, for about four miles, when we emerged into 
 an open plain from twenty-five to thirty miles across. 
 Keeping the same direction, slightly descending for 
 nine miles, through a level plain covered with mezquit 
 chapporal, we reached Agua Prieta, or the "Black 
 Water Creek" of Colonel Cooke. My readers will 
 recognise this as the spot were I encamped at the 
 time of my visit to Fronteras in May, 1851, when I 
 was accompanied by Colonel Craig and a small party. 
 It was then dry ; but now it was filled with a dark 
 muddy water, whence it derives its name. This, like 
 many other small streams we had lately passed, we 
 now know is not permanent. After heavy rains, it 
 receives the washings of the broad plains, which rise 
 gradually on either side for many miles. 
 
 As the next water we expected to find was at 
 San Bernardino, eighteen miles distant, I thought it 
 best to go no further, although it was but twelve 
 
THE PRESIDIO OF JANOS. 327 
 
 o'clock, and we had come not over thirteen miles. 
 But as there was a bright sun, we could not do better 
 than devote the remainder of the day to drying our 
 tents, blankets, saddles, and every thing that had been 
 carried on mules. The packs were therefore over- 
 hauled, and their contents, as well as the bedding, 
 spread out to dry. The road to-day had been excel- 
 lent, as it had for the most part since leaving Santa 
 Cruz. 
 
 Towards evening, an alarm was given by the 
 Mexican arrieros that the Apaches were upon us, and 
 after our mules, then a mile off. All flew to arms ; 
 and in two minutes every animal about the camp was 
 saddled, mounted, and off in pursuit, or rather to the 
 aid of our caballada, which we could see approaching 
 at full speed, followed by the herdsmen and arrieros, 
 yelling and screaming at the top of their voices to 
 keep up the stampede. The mules were evidently as 
 much frightened as the Mexicans ; and such a state of 
 commotion we had not beheld since we left California. 
 Far across the plain we could see the supposed enemy 
 approaching on horseback, making directly for the 
 camp at full speed. Having got my rifle ready and 
 cocked, I drew out my telescope to ascertain the 
 number of the enemy, now about a mile off. To my 
 great relief, I perceived that several were clad in dark 
 coats, and that all wore hats, some of them black. 
 This showed that they were neither Apaches nor Mexi- 
 cans ; for the former do not wear hats at all, and the 
 latter at this season wear white calico shirts, with 
 straw hats. In a few minutes the supposed enemies 
 were with us, and proved to be a party of American 
 
328 SANTA CRUZ TO 
 
 emigrants in advance of a train of wagons, which our 
 people did not see, or they would have caused no 
 alarm. Perceiving the stampede they had caused, and 
 hearing the yelling of the arrieros, they had hastened 
 forward to quiet our fears. 
 
 This party consisted of thirty-five persons, men, 
 women, and children, with mule-wagons and horses, 
 from Arkansas and Texas. Their wagons had turned 
 off to the left to a spring, where there was better water 
 than in the stream two miles below us. After spending 
 an hour in giving us some interesting news from our 
 friends at El Paso and on the Rio Grande below that 
 place, they took leave of us and rejoined their party. 
 They had seen a party of forty or more Apaches two 
 days before near the Guadalupe Pass. 
 
 August 2d. We moved off at seven ; the morning 
 clear and pleasant, and with the satisfaction of having 
 dry tents and clothing once more ; for we had escaped 
 the rain last night, probably from being so far from 
 the mountains. Our course was still east, across the 
 plain, to a high conical mountain capped with a rocky 
 bluff. The road was excellent until we reached the 
 base of this mountain, when it became hilly, though 
 not bad. After winding among these hills for three 
 or four miles, we again emerged into a broad plain, in 
 the middle of which stood the ruined hacienda of San 
 Bernardino. We now descended again very gradually 
 over a plain filled with mezquit chapporal, and six or 
 seven miles further brought us to the hacienda. Dis- 
 tance travelled, eighteen miles. 
 
 Just as we were entering this plain, we met Colo- 
 nel Garcia, with a detachment of two hundred Mexi- 
 
THE PRESIDIO OF JANOS. 329 
 
 can troops from Tucson, on a campaign against the 
 Apaches. A more miserable set of men I never met, 
 certainly none calling themselves soldiers. Some of 
 them were destitute of shirts, others of pantaloons, and 
 some had neither coats nor hats. Some wore over- 
 coats, without a rag of clothing beneath. They had 
 seen no Indians, as might be expected, although forty 
 were observed here the day before. In all probability 
 the wily enemy had perceived them, and would follow 
 them, in the hope of stealing some of their animals, 
 and piercing some of them with a lance or an arrow. 
 
 These campaigns against the Indians are utterly use- 
 less, nor can they be attended with success. During the 
 last two years that the'Mexicans have been operating 
 against them on this frontier, not fifty have been killed. 
 The Indians are too cunning to risk an open fight, 
 even with such antagonists. Their mode of warfare is 
 by stratagem, and they must be encountered with 
 their own weapons. 
 
 August 3d. We kept on our easterly course to- 
 wards the Guadalupe Mountains. Met a train of ox- 
 teams with emigrants from Arkansas, and soon after 
 entered the famous canon, where there was an abun- 
 dance of water and grass. In passing a small ravine, 
 one of the wagons upset, discharging its contents upon 
 a poor Mexican who happened to be seated inside, 
 because too ill to sit upon his mule. Dr. Webb was 
 sent for, but found the man not seriously injured. 
 Fortunately the wagon was not broken ; so that after 
 a little delay all was made right again, and the train 
 continued through the defile until three o'clock, when 
 we stopped and pitched our tents where the road 
 
330 SANTA CRUZ TO 
 
 takes a sudden turn, and leads over the mountains, 
 through the much-dreaded Guadalupe Pass. I noticed 
 near this spot traces of a large encampment, which Le- 
 roux said was one of Colonel Cooke's in 1846. 
 
 August 4dh. We commenced the ascent of the 
 mountain immediately after leaving camp ; and the 
 animals being fresh, we reached the summit of the 
 first hills with ease. I took my rifle and set off on 
 foot, keeping near the train, as it would have been 
 imprudent for the party to scatter in such a place. 
 The descent of the first hill was difficult, being full of 
 short turns, rocky and very steep. About half way 
 down, we took the mules out of my wagon, and let it 
 down by hand, the driver takirfg the pole, while four 
 of us held it back until it reached the bottom. The 
 baggage and subsistence wagons were got down in 
 safety by attaching ropes behind and to one side, to 
 which ten or a dozen men held on, thus preventing 
 them from upsetting or making a too sudden descent. 
 The only vehicle that met with an accident was that 
 containing Lieutenant Whipple's valuable instruments. 
 Although more pains were taken with it than with any 
 other, it was. upset, and its contents thrown out, but 
 happily without any damage either to the instruments 
 or the wagon. 
 
 The worst is a chalky hill, near the last in the pass. 
 It is exceedingly smooth and steep, with short and 
 very abrupt turns, so as to render it impossible to 
 double a team, or even hitch six mules together to 
 advantage. To ascend this place with loaded wagons, 
 is impossible. I sent Leroux off in the morning in 
 advance with the pack-mules, directing him to pass all 
 
THE PRESIDIO OF JANOS. 331 
 
 the hills, then discharge his loads, and return and meet 
 me at the base of the chalky hill mentioned. I found 
 him there on my arrival ; and we set to work at once 
 to discharge the wagons. This being done, the con- 
 tents were put upon the backs of the mules, which 
 were sent ahead again to deposit their loads. We then 
 took hold of the wagons ; and by alternately pushing 
 them and chocking the wheels, the mules got them up 
 this formidable ascent with comparative ease. While 
 this was going on I took a sketch of the pass, which 
 will convey a better idea than a written description. 
 It will be found in the first volume. 
 
 On the summit of the hill we met a train of wagons 
 with forty persons bound for California. They were a 
 substantial hardy looking set of people, and had been 
 four months on their journey from Arkansas. 
 
 A magnificent view of the country in every direc- 
 tion is obtained from this spot. On looking back the- 
 way we had come, the whole pass with its defiles and 
 mountains, its forests of oaks and pines, its deep gorges 
 and grassy valleys, lay before us ; while in the very 
 centre, protruded a huge pile of rocks of a light green 
 and whitish color, presenting a pleasing contrast with 
 the rich hue of the foliage around. Some of the hills 
 were covered with grass, and others were dotted with 
 clumps of cedars, although small live and post oaks 
 predominated. Beyond the pass could be seen the high 
 conical mountain beyond San Bernardino ; and in the 
 dim distance, an elevated chain near the San Pedro 
 River, at the base of which we passed. The perspec- 
 tive of these receding mountains, the furthest more than 
 a hundred miles distant, was exceedingly beautiful. 
 
332 SANTA CRUZ TO 
 
 Before one o'clock we had passed all the hills; 
 when the wagons were reloaded, the rnules packed, 
 and we continued our journey. I here turned off and 
 took the old Janos road, believing it to furnish a shorter 
 route to El Paso than that by the Copper Mines, which 
 we took in our journey into Sonora last year; besides 
 I was desirous of varying my course, and examining 
 the country further south. This road has been travel- 
 led for nearly two centuries, or since the first settle- 
 ment of the country. It is the only route practicable 
 for wagons between Chihuahua and Sonora, and was 
 only made so by Colonel Cooke. Nor is there any 
 other for pack -mules, except one a short distance to 
 the south leading from Correlitos to Babispe. Further 
 south the great Sierra Madre is impassable for more 
 than five hundred miles. 
 
 When Colonel Cooke set out from Santa Fe for 
 California, he came down the Rio Grande to the pre^ 
 sent ford at San Diego, and thence to Ojo de Vaca. His 
 most direct course would then have been west across 
 the unexplored region lying between that place and 
 the San Pedro ; but as his guide, Leroux, knew noth- 
 ing of that country, he deemed it prudent, when so 
 many lives were dependent on him, to follow a route 
 with which he was acquainted. Accordingly he led 
 them in a south-westerly course to the Guadalupe Pass, 
 through which he knew there was a trail from Janos. 
 In reaching this he had to pass over a district of fifty- 
 two miles to Las Playas without water, in which his 
 men suffered severely from thirst ; and on reaching the 
 pass, he was obliged to cut a road for his wagons, as 
 wheeled vehicles had never before gone that way. 
 
THE PRESIDIO OF JANOS. 333 
 
 Emigrating parties, arid all others, are much indebted to 
 this gallant officer for opening this road, which otherwise 
 would have remained in its ancient condition to the 
 present day. But with all the labor that has been or 
 may hereafter be bestowed upon it, it can never be- 
 come the great thoroughfare for emigrants to California. 
 The mountain pass must always remain an impedi- 
 ment. The long tract from Ojo de Vaca to the 
 Playas without water, is another; and the Guadalupe 
 Pass presents the same difficulty in the dry season. A 
 fourth objection is the distance, which is fully a hun- 
 dred miles greater than a course nearly west from Ojo 
 de Vaca, coming out near Tucson. 
 
 The latter route was taken by the Commission 
 last year, and the longest stretch without water was 
 less than forty miles. Our government should send 
 out a party to make explorations within our line of 
 boundary ; when, I doubt not, a route would be dis- 
 covered which would shorten the distance at least one 
 hundred and fifty miles, besides furnishing wood, water, 
 and grass in abundance. It is desirable, too, that we 
 should have a road as far as possible within our own ter- 
 ritory, and not pass, as at present, the whole distance 
 from El Paso to the Colorado through that of Mexico. 
 
 The summit which we had now attained, by a tortu- 
 ous ascent of from ten to fifteen hundred feet in fifteen 
 miles, is the level of the great central plateau. A broad 
 plain here opens to the view eastward and southward, 
 extending far and wide, with short detached ridges of 
 mountains, running generally from north-west to south- 
 east. Our course was south-east, to a range of moun- 
 tains whose direction is east and west, fifteen miles dis- 
 
334 SANTA CRUZ TO 
 
 tant. This great plain is lost in the horizon at the 
 north-east, there being no mountains in sight ; in a 
 south-westerly direction, the Guadalupe range is seen 
 some fifty miles distant, verging eastward, until it 
 unites with the great chain of the Cordilleras. 
 
 Our course lay towards a portion of the mountains 
 where I presumed the pass to be. The plain was per- 
 fectly level and the road excellent, without a stone, a 
 tree, or a bush. When we had reached its centre, 
 where there was a slight depression, we found that the 
 drainage of the adjacent slopes had made it so miry as 
 to be impassable by the direct road. We therefore 
 diverged to the right, keeping on higher ground, and 
 got safely across. At 3 o'clock it commenced raining, 
 with the wind from the south-west, when we would 
 gladly have stopped ; but there was neither wood nor 
 water at hand. We were, therefore, obliged to keep 
 on another hour, when a spring with a small pool of 
 water was discovered at the base of a plateau or terrace 
 which extended about three miles from the mountains. 
 Here we encamped. Estimated distance travelled, 
 eighteen miles, including the Guadalupe Pass. Grass 
 was abundant around us, and some oaks half a mile dis- 
 tant furnished us with fuel. 
 
 August 5th. We kept along the terrace for three 
 miles, and then entered a defile which led directly 
 across the lower portion of the mountains. This defile 
 was at first of easy ascent, through groves of small oaks 
 and cedars, and over a carpet of rich verdure. From 
 this the road led directly up a hill, which, though not 
 steep, was a very hard one for the animals, being 
 wholly composed of loose and rolling stones. The poor 
 
THE PRESIDIO OF JANOS. 335 
 
 creatures had a severe tug of it; and although I 
 ascended slowly on foot, I reached the summit nearly 
 an hour before all the wagons got up. 
 
 Here we found a party of from forty to fifty emi- 
 grants with ten ox teams. While waiting for our wagons 
 to come up, we seated ourselves beneath the trees, and 
 entered into conversation with these people, who were 
 quite an intelligent party, both of men and women. 
 The usual inquiries were made of us about the road 
 and the prospects in California. The women were very 
 inquisitive, chiefly as to the difficulties they had yet tc, 
 encounter. They had already been five months on 
 their journey from Arkansas, and had lost several of 
 their party by death ; and one of the men had had a 
 narrow escape from a large brown bear but an hour 
 before, on the hill we were now about to descend. The 
 skin of the animal lay before us, bearing authentic tes- 
 timony to his immense size. 
 
 It seems that as three of the men were scouring the 
 adjoining woods, one of them discovered this bear, 
 and discharged his rifle at him. The bear limped off 
 into an adjacent thicket ; the man followed ; and as he 
 approached the animal's place of concealment, the infu- 
 riated creature sprang from the thicket and seized 
 him. He was of course thrown, when a hard struggle 
 took place for the mastery. The bear bit him severe- 
 ly in the leg ; while the man, after a violent effort, suc- 
 ceeded in getting his knife from its sheath, and plunged 
 it into the animal's body. The struggle took place on 
 the brow of a steep hill, and near the brink of a preci- 
 pice some twenty feet in height. Over this they both 
 fell together, the bear, fortunately, being underneath, 
 
336 SANTA CRUZ TO 
 
 and striking on his back. This saved the man from 
 injury, and released him from his antagonist's embrace. 
 Lacerated as he was, he arose and prepared to act on 
 the defensive, expecting the bear would again give 
 battle ; but the latter, not feeling very comfortable 
 from his wounds and his fall, stood quietly gazing at 
 the man, for some moments, and then leisurely turned 
 around and walked away. The man was not so badly 
 injured as to prevent his walking ; and, as soon as the 
 bear was out of sight, he called to his companions, and 
 pointed out the direction taken by the animal. Follow- 
 ing the track, they soon discovered him, and dispatch- 
 ed him with a couple of well-directed shots. 
 
 We now descended the opposite slope of the moun- 
 tain, which, though long and tedious, was not precipi- 
 tous. Reaching the base in safety, we stopped on the 
 banks of a beautiful little stream, which had its source 
 in the mountain. Here it was thought advisable to 
 water the animals and make a noon halt, as it was un- 
 certain whether we should find water again for many 
 miles. After a delay of three hours, which afforded 
 us an opportunity to dine, we resumed our journey, 
 keeping near the stream for three miles, and then strik- 
 ing off into a very broad and level plain from twenty- 
 five to thirtv miles across, on which not a tree or a 
 bush was to be seen. Low gravelly hills of a conical 
 form rose from the plain on our left from fifty to two 
 hundred feet in height, covered with grass, but desti- 
 tute of trees. On our right, about four miles distant, 
 rose a high and isolated mountain with bold rocky 
 sides. Opposite this we stopped at nine o' clock and 
 encamped without water, having travelled twenty miles. 
 
THE PRESIDIO OF JANOS. 337 
 
 August Qth. We continued our journey across the 
 plain in a direction east south-east. With the excep- 
 tion of a little rise of ten feet, to reach a gravelly pla- 
 teau, the whole plain had been a perfect level since we 
 entered it the day before. It was entirely open on the 
 west, being limited in the far distance by the Guada- 
 lupe Mountains, while on the east none were seen. 
 
 This great plain, from its position and extent, I 
 think unites with that we crossed on Cooke's road, at 
 the dry lake or " La Playa ;" for when there, I noticed 
 that the plain stretched far to the south-west, unlimited 
 by the mountains. 
 
 Our attention was arrested to-day by the sight of 
 the remains of two human bodies, but whether of 
 Mexicans or Americans we could not determine. What 
 was left of their clothing consisted of white shirts and 
 narrow white cotton drawers. The latter article is 
 not worn by Mexicans, which led us to suppose the 
 murdered men might have been our countrymen. 
 
 In the afternoon we crossed a fine clear stream, 
 thirty to forty feet wide and about two deep, occasion- 
 ally expanding into ponds twice that depth, and en- 
 camped on the opposite bank where there was excel- 
 lent grass. This stream is a branch of the river which 
 passes Janos and Correlitos, the latter being known 
 both as the San Miguel and as the Casas Grandes River. 
 Like other streams in Mexico, it takes the names of 
 the several towns it passes. In it we caught a sufficient 
 number of trout to give us all a meal. We also col- 
 lected specimens of unios, which abound here. About 
 a mile to the east, several large adobe houses were 
 seen belonging to an estate which had recently been 
 
338 SANTA CRUZ TO THE PEESIDIO OF JANOS. 
 
 abandoned in consequence of the depredations of the 
 Indians. Distance travelled, twenty miles. 
 
 August *Ith. We resumed our journey, keeping 
 along a terrace of gravel about ten feet above the 
 plain. The road continued excellent, as it had been 
 since leaving the Guadalupe Pass. In eight miles we 
 passed around the southern extremity of a hill, from 
 which a gentle descent of a mile brought us to the old 
 Presidio of Janos, the extreme outpost of the State of 
 Chihuahua. 
 
JANOS TO COKRELITOS, ETC. 339 
 
 CHAPTER XXXV. 
 
 JANOS TO CORRELITOS, AND VISIT TO CASAS GRANDES. 
 
 Janos. an old military post— Its decline — Aid a party of American emi- 
 grants — A Thomsonian doctor — Difficulty in fording the Casas Grandes 
 Kiver — Arrival at Oorrelitos — Smelting works — Unhealthiness of the 
 people — Barranca Oolorada — Visit to the town of Oasas Grandes — Ex- 
 tensive ruins — Kesemblance to those on the Gila — Fertile valley — The 
 river and its tributaries — Modern town — Eeturn to Oorrelitos. 
 
 It is so rare an event for trains or travellers to enter 
 Janos from the west, that our approach created quite 
 a sensation among its quiet people. We stopped in 
 the main street as we passed along, and were at once 
 accosted by some Americans, who advised us to en- 
 camp near the river on the opposite side of the town ; 
 which we did, and found good grass near. 
 
 Janos is one of the seven presidios or military posts, 
 a line of which was formed along the frontier as earty 
 as 1718. The others were Galeana, Carrizal, Norte, 
 Coyome, San Eleazario, and San Carlos. These posts 
 were of great service in subduing the Indians and pro- 
 tecting the inhabitants, and were connected with a 
 greater chain which extended from San Antonio in 
 Texas to San Francisco in California. A direct and 
 constant communication was kept up between these 
 
340 JANOS TO CORRELITOS, 
 
 posts until the period of the subversion of the Spanish 
 rule. They have since been retained and occupied for 
 the same purpose as before, but have dwindled from 
 respectable garrisons of well disciplined soldiers, to a 
 mere handful of raw militia, as undisciplined as they 
 are wanting in bravery. 
 
 In the year 1826, the force in Janos consisted of 
 six commissioned, and ninety non-commissioned officers 
 and privates, and was supported at an annual cost of 
 $26,894. It now numbers twenty soldiers ; but this 
 force is augmented from time to time by larger bodies 
 of troops, when sent on campaigns against the Indians.* 
 Like every other frontier town which we had visited, 
 whether in this State or in Sonora, its population is 
 diminishing, and its houses falling to decay, in conse- 
 quence of the inroads of the universal enemy, the 
 Apaches. The present population is but three hun- 
 dred, and even these dare not venture far beyond the 
 town, but lounge out a miserable existence beneath 
 the shade of the adobe walls, changing their position 
 as the shadows change. The streets have a desolate 
 and forsaken appearance. No one seemed to be at 
 work ; and such as were not squatting under the walls 
 were engaged in gambling. The presidio buildings 
 occupied by the military, are in a state of ruin. 
 
 Before going to camp, I rode to the quarters of the 
 commanding officer, Colonel Medina, who had extend- 
 ed many civilities to Colonel Craig and a surveying 
 party of the Commission under Mr. John Bull, the 
 preceding year, while reconnoitering the country be- 
 
 * Escudero. Noticias Estadisticas de Chihuahua. — p. 56. 
 
, 
 
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 jpffll 
 
 m 
 
 [liilllllllll 
 
 ■■'V- 
 
 
 iii iii 
 
 11 
 
AND VISIT TO CAS AS GR ANDES. 341 
 
 tween El Paso and the Copper Mines. The Colonel, 
 however, was taking his siesta, and I had not the 
 pleasure of seeing him. 
 
 We found here seven Americans, who had left one 
 of the emigrating parties a few days previous, in the 
 belief that they could reach California by an easier route 
 and at less expense than by keeping with the rest. 
 Their plan was to go to Ures, Hermosillo, and Guay- 
 mas, where they intended to take a vessel for San 
 Francisco. On my representing to them all the diffi- 
 culties that would attend a journey that way, and the 
 delay they would be likely to meet with at Guaymas, 
 where there might be no vessel leaving for a month, 
 they became convinced of their error, and determined 
 to leave the same evening, and endeavor to overtake 
 their friends. This they could easily do, as they were 
 on horseback, while the party they wished to rejoin 
 were travelling with ox-teams. But they were in trou- 
 ble about their animals. Two of them, having strayed 
 away, had been recovered by the Mexicans ; who 
 refused to deliver them up, on the ground that they 
 belonged to the party which had left. I accordingly 
 addressed a note to Colonel Medina, stating such facts 
 as to satisfy him of the ownership of the animals; 
 whereupon he complied with my request, and ordered 
 the men who held them to deliver them up forthwith. 
 
 We found an American " herb," or " Thomsonian " 
 doctor, as they call themselves, here. He had come 
 thus far with some of the emigrating parties for Cali- 
 fornia ; but finding no physician either in Janos or in 
 the adjoining town of Correlitos, he had left his party 
 and commenced practice on the spot. He said he had 
 
342 JANOS TO CORRELITOS, 
 
 in two weeks cleared three hundred dollars. He made 
 his bargains beforehand, as he told us, and had just un- 
 dertaken the case of a man who was to pay him $150 
 if he gave him relief, and $300 if he effected a cure. 
 He seemed quite sanguine of getting the latter sum. 
 
 August 8. A horse died last night from the bite 
 of a rattlesnake received three days before. We start- 
 ed this morning, pursuing a course south-east by east 
 across an open and level plain about 12 miles in width, 
 and of a desert-like character, which it assumes imme- 
 diately after leaving the river. In one instance, I 
 noticed a patch of grama grass half a mile in width, 
 extending across the plain as far as the eye could reach. 
 This desert, or plateau, is but little elevated above the 
 bottom lands of the river, and is composed of a 
 fine gravel. The bottom lands along the San Miguel 
 are fertile, and yield abundant crops of wheat, corn, 
 and the usual products of the country ; although, at 
 present, much of this fine soil has been suffered to run 
 waste, on account of the hazard of cultivating it. 
 There was formerly much stock raised here ; but so 
 completely have the Indians got possession of the 
 vicinity, that there are not horses and cattle enough 
 left to cultivate the soil. 
 
 The road continued excellent, and the train made 
 good progress. On our left I noticed the course of 
 the river winding across the plain, marked by a long 
 line of cotton-woods. Crossing this plain, we passed 
 around the base of some gravelly hills, and then con- 
 tinued in a more easterly direction over a similar pla- 
 teau for ten miles, which brought us to Correlitos, a 
 town standing on the eastern bank of the San Miguel, 
 or Casas Grandes River, as it is called here. 
 
AND VISIT TO CASAS GRANDES. 343 
 
 On arriving at the river, I found, greatly to my 
 surprise, a large and rapid stream, much swollen by 
 the late rains, and about 100 yards in width. At first 
 we hesitated whether to cross the stream at once, or 
 wait till the following morning ; as the people said the 
 water would then be several inches lower, provided 
 there was no more rain. We concluded, however, to 
 attempt it as it was ; which was fortunate for us. 
 After some search, a fordable place was found ; and 
 notwithstanding the strength of the current, we suc- 
 ceeded with care in getting every thing over in safety. 
 As a general rule, it is best always to cross a stream 
 immediately, so as to encamp on the opposite side ; for 
 should there be a fall of rain, or an overflow of the 
 river from other causes, it might be found impassable 
 in the morning, and perhaps continue so for several 
 days. Four mules which had been driven along sev- 
 eral days with sore backs and otherwise disabled, being 
 unfit to go further, were abandoned here. 
 
 August dt7i. As a supply of fresh meat and vege- 
 tables was wanted, I determined to remain here a few 
 hours, and after breakfast walked to the town, about 
 a quarter of a mile distant, to see what could be had ; 
 for we were yet 160 miles from El Paso, and could 
 procure nothing after leaving this place. I had sent 
 to the town immediately on our arrival last evening, 
 to engage some cattle or sheep, and was told that they 
 would be in the corral this morning for selection ; but 
 when I called, they were still several miles off. Some 
 men were sent after them ; and. in the mean time, I 
 went to examine some large furnaces, where the silver 
 is extracted from the ore taken from a mine in the 
 vicinitv. 
 
344 JANOS TO CORRELITOS, 
 
 Although these smelting works are a very indifferent 
 and primitive affair, yet they are said to produce a large 
 amount of silver, and to yield to their owner, Senor Zu- 
 loaga, a handsome income. The ore is taken from a 
 mountain eighteen miles distant, and brought hither in 
 carts to be smelted. The oivner* was absent ; but the 
 superintendent was very polite to us, taking us through 
 the establishment and pointing out the several processes 
 used in extracting the metal, as well as explaining to 
 us the various qualities of ore. 
 
 One of the greatest difficulties which attend the 
 smelting here is the scarcity of firewood. As there 
 are no forests near, the roots of mezquit bushes are 
 almost exclusively used. These roots, it is true, afford 
 excellent fuel ; but they are obtained with much labor, 
 and the supply must sooner or later cease, as no more 
 is produced. 
 
 Correlitos is a mud-built modern town, containing 
 about four hundred inhabitants, who depend wholly 
 upon the mine and smelting works for their living. 
 There is some fine bottom land near ; but little of it is 
 cultivated. At the time of my visit, the streets were 
 filled with mud holes, half full of putrid water, in which 
 swine were wallowing; and the people looked sickly 
 as well as filthy, caused by the strong fumes of arsenic 
 which proceed from the furnaces and are disseminated 
 through the town. These fumes were so powerful, 
 that when the wind blew towards our camp, half a 
 mile distant, they were quite offensive. The super- 
 intendent gave me some fine specimens of ore, as well 
 as of the product in its various stages as it undergoes 
 reduction. 
 
AND VISIT TO CAS AS GRANDES. 345 
 
 The Apaches, I was informed, had been very bold 
 here of late. Three weeks before our arrival a band 
 of twenty-six had ventured within two miles of the 
 town, where they surprised a party herding mules and 
 cattle. They killed three men, and drove the animals 
 off. These Indians had also, within the same period, 
 run off a large portion of the stock of Mr. Flotte, an 
 American living at Barranca Colorada four miles distant. 
 No attempt at pursuit and recapture had been made. 
 
 At 11 o'clock the beeves had not come in, nor the 
 promised vegetables ; and as it would require an hour 
 or two after the cattle arrived to kill one and distribute 
 the meat, making it too late to leave to-day, I directed 
 the mules, which were already hitched up and ready 
 to move, to be unharnessed and turned out to feed. 
 To make the most of my time, I determined to visit 
 Casas Grandes, a town twenty miles to the south of 
 us, where there were said to be extensive ruins of an 
 aboriginal race. Hastily putting our blankets, fire- 
 arms, and some provisions into my wagon, Dr. Webb 
 and myself, accompanied by a Mexican servant, set out 
 on our excursion. 
 
 I had long known of the existence of these ruins, 
 which are spoken of by various writers on Mexico, and 
 had made frequent inquiries about them, daring the 
 winter I spent in El Paso, of old residents there and 
 of persons from the city of Chihuahua, without getting 
 any satisfactory account of them. All said there were 
 some old adobe buildings there in ruins ; but whether 
 they belonged to the present or to an earlier race of 
 Indians, they knew not. At any rate, all agreed that 
 they were not worth visiting. 
 
346 JANOS TO CORRELITOS, 
 
 On reaching Correlitos, I made the same inquiries, 
 but with no better results. When I had come to the 
 conclusion that the ruins, of which so much had been 
 said, must have crumbled away and disappeared, a 
 Mexican who had heard of my inquiries, and who felt 
 some interest in the antiquities of his country, called 
 upon me, and advised me by all means to visit the 
 place, now that I was within so short a distance of it, 
 assuring me that there was much there to repay my 
 curiosity. 
 
 Following the river up in a course nearly south, 
 we reached the village of Barranca Colorada, four 
 miles distant, where I stopped to call on Mr. Lewis 
 Flotte, an American gentleman long resident there, 
 and the owner of a silver mine which is situated in the 
 same mountain with that of Mr. Zuloaga, whose smelt- 
 ing works I visited at Correlitos. Mr. Flotte had 
 gone to Chihuahua; but his mayor-domo received us 
 politely, and showed us through his works, which are 
 more extensive and better arranged than those at 
 Correlitos. He had six furnaces, four of which were 
 in full blast, while the hearths were being replaced 
 on the others preparatory to their being lighted again. 
 The machinery which kept the bellows in motion was 
 propelled by mules. The superintendent took us 
 through the establishment, describing the various 
 processes, and gave us a set of specimens of the ores. 
 We learnt here, as we did at Correlitos, that Mr. Flotte 
 had been badly treated by the owner of the other 
 mine, and that he was about to sell out his estate in 
 consequence. 
 
 On my expressing a desire to visit this mine, which 
 
AND VISIT TO CASAS GRANDES. 347 
 
 we should pass on our way to El Paso, the superinten- 
 dent gave me a note to the mayor-domo at the mine, 
 after which we resumed our journey. 
 
 Following the river, which we crossed near Bar- 
 ranca, we kept down the valley about sixteen miles, 
 when we came to a beautiful grove of large cotton- 
 wood trees, extending from the river across the bottom 
 to the very bank or edge of the plateau, which here 
 rises from twenty to twenty-five feet above the valley. 
 Passing this grove, we suddenly emerged into a broad 
 and luxuriant valley or bottom, extending as far as the 
 eye could reach towards the south. From the pla- 
 teau, we could trace the course of the stream by the 
 deep green foliage of the long line of cotton-woods 
 which grow on its banks. 
 
 From the point where I stood I noticed, about a 
 mile distant, the ruins of a large building on the verge 
 of the plateau, near which the road passed. As we 
 approached, several others of lesser dimensions were 
 seen, both on the plateau and in the bottom near its 
 base. It required but a glance at these buildings to 
 show what they were, the first being a church, with its 
 entire walls standing, together with a portion of its 
 tower. Remains of tombs were also visible ; but from 
 the decayed and weather-worn appearance of the walls, 
 the church had long been abandoned. The ruins near 
 were those of haciendas and ranchos, some of them 
 quite extensive ; from which I inferred that the town 
 was originally here, though it now stands two miles 
 beyond. 
 
 As we entered the town, which bears on account of 
 these ruins the name of Casas Grandes, we attracted 
 
348 
 
 JANOS TO CORRELITOS, 
 
 much attention from its quiet and retired inhabitants, 
 who, in this remote and secluded spot, are seldom dis- 
 turbed by visitors, save those who come on some errand 
 connected with the church. Casas Grandes is not a 
 place of business, nor is it on any great thoroughfare, 
 
 Ruins at Casas Grandes, Chihuahua. 
 
 which would enable its citizens to derive advantage 
 from passing travellers. Its whole dependence is upon 
 the rich and luxuriant valley, which is here about two 
 
 Euins at Casas Grandes, Chihuahua. 
 
 miles wide, and which among Mexicans would be 
 said to be in a high state of cultivation. This is speak- 
 ing comparatively ; for what in Mexico is considered 
 
AND VISIT TO CASAS GRANDES. 349 
 
 superior cultivation, would be thought very slovenly 
 tillage in the United States. 
 
 I had letters of introduction to two gentlemen 
 living here, which I sent on in advance by my Mexi- 
 can servant, that he might find the persons to whom 
 they were addressed, and then return and meet me. 
 Unfortunately, both the gentlemen were absent. The 
 man, however, had shown the letters to another gentle- 
 man, who had read them, and who requested that we 
 should stop at his house. 
 
 We accordingly drove up to a respectable looking 
 adobe house, where we were met by well-dressed per- 
 sons, and received with .much politeness. Being con- 
 ducted into the house, we were scarcely seated before 
 the room was pretty well filled with visitors, to see who 
 the strangers were. I made myself and companion 
 known, as well as the object of our visit; viz., to see 
 the ruins near by, or as they called them the '■ Casas de 
 Montezuma." Our host soon began to make prepara- 
 tions for dinner ; but as it was then five o'clock, and 
 but little time remained before dark, I requested him 
 to defer the meal until evening, that we might make 
 the most of our time in examining the ruins while day- 
 light lasted. 
 
 This being arranged, Dr. Webb and myself set off 
 for the ruins, accompanied by our host and three or 
 four others. Being but half a mile from the village, 
 they were soon reached, when, after a hasty walk among 
 them, I seated myself on a small knoll, or mound, and 
 occupied myself while there remained any light in 
 making a sketch. The Doctor, in the mean time, was 
 engaged in searching among them for relics. We re- 
 
350 JANOS TO CORRELITOS, 
 
 turned while we could see to find our way back through 
 the thick mezquit chapporal, and partook of an excel- 
 lent supper with such appetites as people might be sup- 
 posed to have who had not eaten since sunrise. The 
 evening was spent in questioning our friend about the 
 ruins, and in selecting some fragments of pottery from 
 a peck or more which the boys who had accompanied 
 us had picked up, I having set them to work for the 
 purpose. 
 
 The ruins of Casas Grandes, or Great Houses, face 
 the cardinal points, and consist of fallen and erect walls, 
 the latter varying in height from five to thirty feet, and 
 often projecting above the heaps of others which have 
 fallen and crumbled away. If the height were esti- 
 mated from their foundations, it would be much greater, 
 particularly of those in the central parts of the build- 
 ing, where the fallen walls and rubbish form a mound 
 twenty feet above the ground. If, therefore, the high- 
 est walls now standing have their foundation on the 
 lowest level, they have a height of from forty to fifty 
 feet ; and as these ruins have stood exposed to the 
 elements for more than three centuries, they must 
 originally have been much higher. Indeed the thick- 
 ness of the walls, some of which are five feet at their 
 base, would indicate that they must have been much 
 higher than they now appear. 
 
 From a close examination of what remains of the 
 building or buildings, I came to the conclusion that the 
 outer portions were the lowest, and not above one 
 story in height, while the central ones were from three 
 to six stories. Hence the large heaps of ruined walls 
 and rubbish in the centre, and in consequence the bet- 
 
AND VISIT TO CASAS GRANDES. 351 
 
 ter preservation and support of that portion of the edi- 
 fice. By far the larger portions which have fallen are 
 the exterior walls. This arises from the moisture of 
 the earth and the greater exposure to rains. The cen- 
 tral parts are in a measure protected by the accumula- 
 tion of rubbish, and by the greater thickness of their 
 walls. 
 
 I should observe that every portion of this edifice 
 is built of adobe, or mud, and that nowhere, as far as 
 I could trace the foundations, could I discover any 
 walls of stone. The point in which it differs from the 
 work of the Spaniards or modern Mexicans, is in the 
 mode of constructing the walls. The latter employ 
 regularly made brick, from fourteen to sixteen inches 
 in length, about twelve in width, and three or four in 
 thickness, often mixed with chopped straw and gravel, 
 and baked in the sun — a mode adopted ages ago by the 
 primitive inhabitants of Egypt, Assyria, and other 
 Oriental countries, and practised by them at the pre- 
 sent day. But the buildings of which I now speak 
 are built with large blocks of mud, or what the Mexi- 
 cans call tapia, about twenty-two inches in thickness, 
 and three feet or more in length. In fact, the length 
 of these blocks seemed to vary, and their precise 
 dimensions could not be traced ; which induced me to 
 believe that some kind of a case' or box was used, into 
 which the mud was placed, and as it dried, these cases 
 were moved along. It is true, they may have been 
 first made in moulds or cases, and, after being dried, 
 placed on the walls ; but the irregularity and want of 
 uniformity in these layers as to their length, leads me 
 to believe they were made on the walls themselves. 
 
352 JANOS TO CORRELITOS, 
 
 The mud is filled with coarse gravel from the plateau, 
 which gives greater hardness to the material. In this 
 respect I consider it superior to the modern adobe, 
 which is oftener made without an} 7- gravel or straw, 
 although in the better class of buildings, I have seen 
 both used. 
 
 In the town of El Paso there are some old division 
 walls from three to four feet high, connected with the 
 earliest buildings in the place, that are built of large 
 blocks of adobe, well filled with gravel, of a similar 
 character with those in the ■' Casas Grandes ;" but in no 
 buildings of the Mexicans have I seen them used. I 
 have also seen modern fences made in the same man- 
 ner of the common mud taken from the fields. 
 
 All adobe walls, whether of buildings or mere fences, 
 decay first at their base, from the moisture ; which 
 causes them to fall over. Such is the case with the 
 modern as well as the ancient buildings. When pros- 
 trate, the water easily permeates them ; in a few years 
 they crumble in pieces, and are reduced to the original 
 mud and gravel from which they were made. 
 
 The outer walls of the Casas Grandes are only to 
 be traced by long lines of rounded heaps parallel to, 
 or at right angles with, the walls now standing ; while 
 here and there a corner of the original wall may be 
 seen, or where it was intersected by a transverse wall 
 which tended to support the other and bind them to- 
 gether. These corners often retain their erect posi- 
 tions long after the other portions have fallen. So 
 with the higher and more massive walls of the interior, 
 which are five feet in thickness at their base : the sides 
 or longer walls have fallen, while the corners, with a 
 
AND VISIT TO CAS AS GRANDES. 353 
 
 few feet on either side, still tower far above the other 
 parts, resembling at a distance the isolated columns of 
 a ruined temple. In so ruinous a state are these 
 buildings, that it is extremely difficult to trace their 
 original form. In approaching them one first meets 
 with the low walls or embankment, which any where 
 else would be taken for a work of nature ; but the 
 transverse heaps connecting them with the standing 
 walls at once show them to have been similar, though 
 of less height. A closer inspection brings to view a 
 portion of a corner which has not fallen. As the vis- 
 itor approaches the interior, where the edifice is in 
 a better state of preservation, he becomes confused 
 among the erect and fallen portions ; for the longer 
 sides are mostly prostrated, while the shorter ones, and 
 those forming angles, are standing." In this dilemma 
 I found it best to take a stand upon the highest point, 
 which is a mound in the very centre of the erect 
 walls, as well as the centre of the edifice. From this 
 point, after having examined and traced the exterior 
 portion, one may form a tolerably correct idea as to the 
 arrangement of the edifice. It was not until I had walked 
 several times around it and traced its inner apartments, 
 that I could satisfy myself of its actual outline. 
 
 At first I believed that there were three separate 
 buildings, even when I took my sketch, as there were 
 three large heaps, apparently unconnected, each having 
 portions of erect walls, But on closer examination, I 
 found that they had been connected by a low range of 
 buildings, which may have been merely courts, as they 
 were of but one story. On the supposition, there- 
 fore, that all were connected either by low buildings or 
 
 vol. ii. — 23 
 
354 JANOS TO COERELITOS, 
 
 corridors, the entire edifice must have extended from 
 north to south at least 800 feet, and from east to west 
 about 250. On the south side a regular and continuous 
 wall can be traced, while the eastern and western fronts 
 are extremely irregular, with projecting walls. There 
 appears to have been several courts within the inclo- 
 sure, of greater or less dimensions. 
 
 The general character of this extensive range of 
 buildings is the same as that of the Casas Grandes, near 
 the Pimo villages, on the Gila, and they are unquestion- 
 ably the work of the same people. The material, too, 
 is the same as that of the ruins on the Salinas. Like 
 the edifice on the Gila, it is built with huge blocks of 
 mud, laid up in the same manner, though, from some 
 cause, probably the lesser tenacity of the adobe, the 
 walls are in a greater state of decay. In no other way 
 can this decay be accounted for, unless a greater an- 
 tiquity is allowed for these than for the Gila edifice, 
 which would be contrary to all preconceived opinions 
 of them. The ruinous state of these buildings may also 
 be attributed to the more frequent rains to which they 
 are exposed than those on the Gila. 
 
 The walls of the present building are much decay- 
 ed ; in fact one half of their thickness is washed away, 
 and it is only by digging below the surface that their 
 original thickness can be seen. In the Gila edifice, the 
 inner surface of the walls is as perfect as though the 
 mason had but yesterday passed his trowel over them, 
 and the exterior' ones are but little injured. In these 
 ruins, on the contrary, no portion of the surface is 
 visible. I sought for this, in order to ascertain if they 
 had been plastered inside or out ; but it could only be 
 
AND VISIT TO CASAS GRANDES. 355 
 
 decided by digging to the foundation, which I had 
 not time to do. Several portions of the walls within 
 the area, and in particular one midway between the 
 most southwardly building and the one to the north, 
 had fronts precisely like that on the Gila ; their doors 
 were similarly placed, and receded towards the top, 
 and the same circular openings were seen in the upper 
 partition walls. So much of the walls had washed 
 away, that I could not trace the cavities where the 
 beams were inserted, and hence was unable, as in the 
 Gila edifice, to ascertain the number of stories, or how 
 the beams were laid. Not a fragment of the wood 
 forming the beams or lintels could be discerned. Many 
 doorways remained; but the lintels being gone, the 
 tops had crumbled away or fallen. 
 
 Although these ruins are alluded to by many of 
 the earlier as well as the recent writers on Mexico, I 
 have been unable to find in any author an accurate or 
 full description of them. I have been particularly de- 
 sirous to see some early account, that I might know 
 their appearance when first seen by the Spanish colo- 
 nists, who traversed this country anterior to the year 
 1600. Ribas, one of the earliest writers on the abori- 
 ginal tribes, who has given the most minute details of 
 the labors of the first missionaries, and the conversion 
 of the several tribes of Central and Northern Mexico, 
 says nothing of these remains, although he describes 
 the nation that occupied the country where they are 
 found, their manners, customs, religion, etc. I find, 
 however, in Clavigero* a brief account, which that 
 
 * History of Mexico. 8vo. ed. vol. i. p. 151. 
 
356 JANOS TO CORRELITOS, 
 
 laborious investigator doubtless had authority for. 
 He repeats the old story that this edifice, "agreeably 
 to the universal tradition of these people, was Jbuilt by 
 the Mexicans in their peregrination." That it con- 
 sisted of " three floors with a terrace above them, and 
 without any entrance to the under floor. The door 
 for entrance to the building is on the second floor, so 
 that a scaling ladder is necessary." This would show 
 that at some period since the settlement of the country 
 its floors remained. 
 
 The other details in Clavigero are incorrect, and 
 unquestionably refer to another edifice, which was built 
 of stone, was roofed, and " surrounded by a wall seven 
 feet thick." He also calls it a "fortress," which term 
 cannot be applied to this structure. I am of opinion 
 that our author either mistook the sense of the writer 
 he obtained his information from, or has blended the 
 descriptions of two different buildings. 
 
 Garcia Conde also states* that this edifice is known 
 to have had "three stories and a roof, with stairs out- 
 side probably of wood," and that the same kind of 
 structures are found at the present time among the pu- 
 eblos of the independent Moquis," north of the Gila. 
 He also repeats the story of the Aztec emigration, and 
 that this was the third stopping-place of that people 
 on their way from the North to the valley of Mexico. 
 
 There is a class of apartments in this edifice, the 
 object of which I am unable to conjecture, unless they 
 were intended as depositories for maize, beans, and 
 other agricultural products, or in other words, a gra- 
 
 * Ensayo Estadistico sobre el Estado de Chihuahua, fol. p. 74. 
 
AND VISIT TO CASAS GRANDES. 357 
 
 nary. These apartments, which are arranged along 
 one of the main walls, are twenty feet in length, by 
 ten in breadth, connected by doorways with a small 
 
 CffiTH 
 
 Part of Ground Plan of the Casas Grandes, Chihuahua. 
 
 inclosure, or pen, in one corner between three and four 
 feet high. Beside these, there are many other exceed- 
 ingly narrow apartments, too contracted for dwelling- 
 places or sleeping-rooms, with connecting doorways, 
 and into which the light was admitted by circular 
 apertures in the upper part of the walls. The number 
 and extent of these long and narrow apartments, with- 
 out windows, led me to believe they were used for 
 granaries. There were also large halls ; and some in- 
 closures within the walls are so extensive, that they 
 could never have been covered with a roof, but must 
 have been open courts. The lesser ranges of buildings, 
 which surrounded the principal one, may have been 
 occupied by the people at large, whose property was 
 deposited within the great building for safe keeping. 
 Although there is less order in the tout ensemble of 
 this great collection of buildings than in those at the 
 north ; the number of small apartments, the several 
 stages or stories, the courts within, and some of the 
 minor details, resemble in many respects the large 
 edifices of the semi-civilized or Pueblo Indians of New 
 Mexico. 
 
 The position of these buildings differs from that 
 of those near the Gila and the Salinas. The latter 
 were built upon the plateau or table, just above the 
 
358 JANOS TO CORRELITOS. 
 
 bottom land which their occupants had cultivated. 
 The former stand on the declivity, with portions 
 extending both on the plateau and on the bottom. The 
 bank here is about twenty feet in height. Why so 
 built I cannot imagine, unless excavations were made 
 in the bank for store rooms. Wherever these old 
 structures are found, they show much sagacity on the 
 part of their builders, who must have had some object 
 in view in adopting the plan just mentioned. As a 
 general custom at the present day, among the Mex- 
 icans, their villages and ranchos are built upon the 
 plateau above the valley, or cultivated bottom, and on 
 spots where there is no vegetation, except such plants 
 as are peculiar to the deserts. Not a blade of grass 
 can flourish there. I supposed this to be for two rea- 
 sons : first, that the valleys are sometimes overflowed, 
 and in rainy seasons are extremely wet and damp ; 
 while on the gravelly plateau, which is hard and 
 smooth, it is always dry. The second reason is, that 
 being elevated, the people have a good view of their 
 cultivated grounds, can trace their cattle and herds 
 with ease, and discover the approach of an enemy. 
 
 On the western or upper side, some sixty to 
 eighty yards from the building, are three mounds of 
 loose stones, about fifteen feet high, no doubt the 
 burial places of the chiefs or great men. I would 
 have opened these, but had not the time or facilities 
 for so doing. If these were burial places, and there 
 are no indications of places of sepulture elsewhere, 
 some valuable relics might be found beneath them. 
 
 I made particular inquiry of my Mexican friends, 
 who were familiar with every spot of ground in this 
 
AND VISIT TO CASAS GRANDES. 
 
 359 
 
 vicinity, whether they had ever discovered the Campo 
 Santo, or burial ground, of the builders of these edifi- 
 ces ; but they all declared they had found none. 
 
 West of these, about two hundred feet distant on 
 the plateau, are the remains of a building, the dimen- 
 sions of which I did not take, but think it about 150 
 feet square. But small portions of its walls remain — 
 enough, however, to show the nature of the building, 
 which could not have been more than one story high. 
 It was divided into a number of compartments, of 
 equal dimensions, except the corner ones, and resem- 
 bled some of the low buildings connected with the 
 large edifice adjacent. 
 
 The following is an outline of the ground plan as 
 indicated by the lines of the walls. 
 
 iiiiiii. 
 
 iTTTTTTT 
 
 Ground Plan of one of the Casas Grandes, Chihuahua. 
 
 The plain for some distance south, I was told, was 
 covered with traces of old buildings ; but they were 
 mere heaps, without a distinct form to show the nature 
 of the original structure. In the valley they are also 
 found. 
 
 Garcia Conde also mentions* a second class of 
 
 Ensayo Estadistico sobre el Estado de Chihuahua, p. 15. 
 
360 JANOS TO CORRELITOS, 
 
 ruins, which are very numerous along the margin of 
 the Casas Grandes and Janos rivers, for a length of 
 twenty leagues and a breadth often. At a short dis- 
 tance, he says, they uniformly have the appearance 
 of small hills or mounds, and in all that have been 
 excavated, there have been found jars (cantaros), 
 pitchers, ollas,* etc., of pottery, painted with white, 
 blue, and scarlet colors ; corn grinders (metates), and 
 stone axes, but no instrument of iron. 
 
 The builders of this edifice, and the occupants of 
 the rich valley in the vicinity, showed much sagacity 
 in their choice of so fine a region for agricultural 
 purposes. There is none equal to it from the low lands 
 of Texas, near San Antonio, to the fertile valleys of 
 California, near Los Angeles ; and, with the excep- 
 tion of the Rio Grande, there is no river of equal size 
 between those of Eastern Texas and the Colorado of 
 California. The water, too, is clear and sweet, unlike 
 the muddy waters of the Rio Grande, the Pecos, and 
 the Colorado, which are charged with vegetable mat- 
 ter and earth. 
 
 Many beautiful articles of pottery have from time 
 to time been found here, the texture of which is much 
 superior to that made at the present day by the Mex- 
 icans. This pottery has chiefly a white or a red 
 ground, ornamented with a variety of angular figures : 
 
 * Ollas (pronounced oyas) are the most common of all the utensils 
 of pottery used by the Indians or present Mexicans. They are of various 
 capacities, from half a pint to six gallons. Suspended by a cord over 
 the fire they are used for cooking in, and are in universal use for carrying 
 water. The household utensils of the poorer Mexicans consist entirely 
 of an assortment of these useful articles. 
 
FRAGMENT* OF ANCIENT POTTERY FROM CASAS GRANDES, CHIHUAHUA. 
 

 FRAGMENTS OF ANCIENT POTTERY FROM CASAS GRANDES, CHIHUAHUA. 
 
AND VISIT TO CASAS GRANDES. 361 
 
 those on the white ground being black, red, or brown ; 
 and on the darker material, black. I made inquiry 
 for any relics that had been found, and was successful 
 in obtaining a few. One of these was a small black 
 jar; another a vessel in the form of a tortoise, of reddish 
 pottery ; and the third a beautifully sculptured stone 
 pipe. Such relics are eagerly sought for by the peo- 
 ple of Chihuahua and other large towns, and when 
 perfect command a high price. I heard of many such ; 
 but they were in towns beyond my reach. I request- 
 ed a friend to procure drawings of these and forward 
 them to me, but have not yet received them, and the 
 only addition I am able to make to those which I 
 obtained, is a drawing from one found by Lieut. Hardy, 
 a copy of which I give, rather to show the style 
 of ornament than the form.* I also saw, at the house 
 of the gentleman who was so polite to us, a fine 
 metate taken from the ruins, about two feet in length, 
 handsomely cut from a block of dark stone, a drawing 
 of which I made. Similar ones are occasionally 
 found there ; and in my rambles I saw several broken 
 ones. 
 
 The whole valley and plain for miles about these 
 ruins is strewed with fragments of pottery. I collect- 
 ed a number of specimens exhibiting various patterns, 
 in order to show the taste of the makers in ornamental 
 
 * Hardy's Travels in the Interior of Mexico in 1825-8. This 
 author spent a couple of hours at these ruins, and procured the jar re- 
 ferred to, which he says was in excellent preservation. " There were 
 also," continued he, " good specimens of earthen images in the Egyp- 
 tian style ; which are, to me at least, so perfectly uninteresting, that I 
 was at no pains to procure any of them." p. 465. 
 
362 JAN0S TO CORRELITOS, 
 
 design, as well as for the purpose of comparing them 
 with the pottery found at the Gila and the Salinas. 
 They will also serve for comparison with the pottery 
 of the Moquis, Zufiis, and other Pueblo Indians, as 
 well as with the ornaments made by the present Pimos 
 and Coco-Maricopas. When so little remains of a 
 people, the smallest fragments of their works of art 
 become important. It is for this reason I have given 
 so many specimens of their ornaments. 
 
 On the summit of the highest mountain south-west 
 of the ruins, and about ten miles distant, there was 
 pointed out to me an ancient fortress of stone, from 
 which the whole country for a vast extent can be 
 viewed. It is attributed to the same people who 
 erected the "Casas Grandes," and was doubtless in- 
 tended as a look-out. This fortress can be discerned 
 with the naked eye, and on looking at it through my 
 spy-glass, it showed quite distinctly. I did not visit 
 it, as it would have required a day, which time I could 
 not spare. 
 
 We were told that this building was a stone for- 
 tress of two or three stories, with a very solid founda- 
 tion. I think that the description of Clavigero refers 
 both to the adobe edifices I have described and to 
 this fortress, and that the worthy historian was not 
 aware of their being separate structures.* 
 
 * This edifice is constructed on the plan of those of New Mexico, 
 that is, consisting of three floors, with a terrace above them, and with- 
 out any entrance to the lower floor. The doorway is in the second 
 story, so that a scaling ladder is necessary ; and the inhabitants of New 
 Mexico build in this manner, in order to be less exposed to the attacks 
 of their enemies. No doubt the Aztecs had the same motives for raisirjo- 
 
RELICS FOUND AT CASAS GRANDES, CHIHUAHUA. p. 362. 
 
AND VISIT TO CAS AS GR ANDES. 363 
 
 The Casas Grandes River rises about a hundred 
 miles N. W. from the city of Chihuahua, whence it 
 flows in a course nearly north by the town and ruins 
 of the same name, the towns of Barranca, Colorada, 
 Correlitos, and Janos, and, after a course of 62^ leagues, 
 is discharged into Lake Guzman. It receives a tribu- 
 tary nine miles north of Janos ; a second one at that 
 town, which bears its name ; and a third about ten 
 miles below the ruins called Temeivaca. Yet not- 
 withstanding these tributaries and the large volume of 
 water, it often dries up, and remains only in pools 
 barely sufficient for the population and the herds of 
 cattle which graze upon its banks. 
 
 The valley here is about two miles in width, 
 covered with luxuriant fields of grass, wheat, and 
 corn. The river passing through its centre is marked 
 by a line of gigantic cotton-woods, while in various 
 detached spots are groups of the same. The acequias 
 which intersect the valley in every direction, are, 
 like the river, lined with a thick growth of shrubbery. 
 
 Beyond the valley rises the plateau, which has a 
 gradual ascent to a low range of hills about eight 
 miles distant ; beyond which, with some miles of inter- 
 
 their edifices on this plan, as every mark of a fortress is to be observed 
 about it, being defended on one side by a lofty mountain, and the rest 
 of it being defended by a wall about seven feet thick ; the foundations 
 are still existing. In this fortress are stones as large as a mill-stone, to 
 be seen : the beams of the roof are of pine, and well finished. In the 
 centre of this vast fabric is a little mount, made on purpose, by what 
 appears, to keep guard on, and observe the enemy. There have been some 
 ditches found in this place, and a variety of domestic utensils, earthen 
 pans, pots, jars, and little looking-glasses oiitzli (obsidian)'. — Clavige- 
 rots Mexico. 
 
364 JANOS TO CORRELITOS, 
 
 vening space, rises a lofty ridge of mountains. I took 
 two general views of the ruins, one from the west, 
 seated on the top of the little mounds referred to, in 
 which the whole extent of the buildings is shown, 
 with the valley and mountains beyond. This I have 
 shown in three parts, to exhibit them more distinctly. 
 Two of these are wood cuts ; the third, the small 
 lithograph. The other is taken from a point near the 
 south-eastern corner, showing portions of the walls 
 which are not seen in the first sketch. This view is 
 given in the large lithograph facing the title-page of 
 this volume. As may be seen in the sketches, low 
 mezquit bushes have taken root around the buildings, 
 as well among its walls as in its apartments. On the 
 west, the plateau extends to a range of low mountains, 
 about five miles distant, running in a line from north- 
 west to south-east. The river bottom and adjacent 
 plateau are about fifteen miles in width, which is 
 about the average width from Janos to Casas Grandes. 
 Proceeding south, these mountains appear to approach, 
 thereby contracting the plateau and valley. The 
 latter, I was told, continues fertile far to the south, 
 and is as highly cultivated as any portion of the 
 country. 
 
 August 10th. From our hospitable friends we 
 learnt that the town contained about 400 inhabitants. 
 They are strictly an agricultural population, and have 
 extensive fields of grain and orchards near. Maize is 
 the chief product, and is sent in large quantities to 
 Chihuahua and El Paso, where it finds a ready market. 
 The people seemed industrious and happy, and were 
 apparently in a better condition than we had found 
 
AND VISIT TO CASAS GRANDES. 365 
 
 them in the other frontier towns. They are somewhat 
 troubled by the Apaches ; and we noticed two crosses 
 near the ruins, and four on the road to Correlitos, the 
 evidences of their murderous propensities. 
 
 We were up by sunrise, and found a cup of coffee 
 ready for us ; after which we again set out for the 
 ruins, accompanied by four men, whom I had engaged 
 to dig among them. 
 
 We first dug in a large apartment where some 
 metates had been discovered, and which it was believed 
 had been a sort of kitchen ; but we found nothing but 
 broken pottery, an obsidian arrow-head, and some 
 small marine shells. Leaving Dr. Webb to superintend 
 these excavations, I set to work to take a ground plan 
 of the buildings, as far as it was possible to do so ; but 
 the Mexicans who undertook to assist me were far from 
 adepts in the business, and caused me much annoy- 
 ance. This was not a little increased by the troops of 
 men, women, and children, who flocked around me 
 until it seemed that half the population had turned out, 
 apparently with the idea that we possessed some secret 
 information regarding buried treasures there. I was 
 unable to complete my survey of the edifice and its 
 numerous walls, which it would have required the 
 labor of several men, for at least two days, to accomplish 
 in a satisfactory manner. 
 
 At 11 o'clock, being pretty tired and hungry, we 
 returned to the house of our friend to breakfast; after 
 which the wagon was brought up, and we set out on our 
 return to Correlitos, where we arrived at four o'clock, 
 well pleased with our excursion. 
 
366 CORRELITOS 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVI. 
 
 CORRELITOS TO EL PASO. 
 
 Leave Oorrelitos — Visit the Silver Mines of Messrs. Flotte and Zuloaga — 
 Attempt of a peon to escape — Rio Santa Maria — Recent fight of 
 Americans with the Apaches here — Broad open plains — Continued 
 rain — The Salado — The Medanos, or Sand-hills — Painful night's march 
 — Samalayuca — Arrival at El Paso del Norte. 
 
 August ISth. We left Oorrelitos at 8 o'clock, a.m., 
 and took an easterly course over a plain of very gen- 
 tle ascent for about fifteen miles towards a conical 
 mountain. We then entered a defile, and soon after 
 reached the base of the mountain, where we found 
 water, and encamped. 
 
 In this conical mountain are the two silver mines 
 of Senor Zuloaga and Mr. Flotte, whose smelting 
 works we had visited at Oorrelitos and Barranca. As 
 soon as the camp was arranged, I set off with several 
 others to inspect them. The mines are on the oppo- 
 site sides of a ravine or indentation, which makes up 
 into the mountain, and their entrances are not more than 
 a hundred yards apart. On the hill sides, around and 
 above the entrances, are the habitations of the work- 
 men ; most of them are built of the rock excavated 
 in mining, and from a little distance have a most 
 singular appearance. 
 
TO EL PASO. 367 
 
 I first went to Mr. Flotte's mine. I presented my 
 letter of introduction to the superintendent, a native 
 Castilian, and was received by him with the politeness 
 that characterizes his countrymen. After sitting a 
 short time in his house near the entrance, we were 
 each provided with torches ; whereupon we descended 
 the mine, following the footsteps of our guide, the super- 
 intendent himself It was quite muddy, owing to the 
 late rains. The shaft was between six and seven feet 
 high, branching off in various directions. We traced 
 it to its bottom, which was eighty varas, or about 240 
 feet, from the entrance. The principal vein of ore is 
 about five inches in thickness; there is also another 
 of one inch. Both have a dip of about 45 degrees. 
 The entire length of the various shafts is 300 varas, or 
 820 feet. On returning to the house of our attentive 
 guide, he presented us with fine specimens of the ore. 
 We did not go further than the entrance of the other 
 mine ; as it was late, and the mine did not materially 
 differ from the one we had examined. 
 
 August 12th. Our journey to-day was twenty -five 
 miles. After leaving camp, our road wound for a cou- 
 ple of miles through the hills, and then emerged into 
 a broad plain, interspersed at intervals of two or three 
 miles with conical hills, from one to three hundred 
 feet in height. Some of these were capped with a ridge 
 or mass of stone, of a reddish color, resembling a work of 
 art. Five miles further brought us to Walnut Creek, 
 a small run of water, which is dry except at this sea- 
 son, and even then contains but little water. Half a 
 dozen walnut trees of a small size, grow upon its 
 banks, whence its name. After crossing this rivulet, 
 
368 COERELITOS 
 
 our course was north-east without variation, over a 
 slightly undulating plain, covered with grama grass. 
 A dark line of trees now showed itself far in the dis- 
 tance, indicating a water-course, which we reached at 
 5 o'clock, and which proved to be the Santa Maria. 
 The road had been excellent since leaving Correlitos, 
 including the mountain defile. A heavy cloud arose 
 as we approached the stream ; and we had barely got 
 our tents pitched and well stayed, before it burst over 
 our heads, accompanied by a violent wind. 
 
 When a few miles from camp this morning, a man 
 got up from behind a bush, where he appeared to have 
 been concealed, and joined the train. He proved to 
 be a Mexican, who wished to accompany us to El 
 Paso. Soon after two men on horseback overtook us, 
 and handed me a note from the superintendent of the 
 mine, stating that one of. his men had run away, and 
 asking permission to take him in case he had joined 
 our train. I could not, of course, interfere in the 
 matter, and gave orders that the men should not be 
 obstructed in arresting the runaway. The poor fellow, 
 who was a peon, was very reluctant to return ; but his 
 captors were armed with sabres and rifles, and all 
 resistance was unavailing. As we journeyed on, we 
 saw blows inflicted on the poor creature, who was, no 
 doubt, destined to spend the remainder of his days at 
 hard labor for the benefit of his owner. Our Mexican 
 arrieros were anxious to liberate him ; but as we were 
 on Mexican territory, with liberty to go whither we 
 pleased in the performance of our official duties, inter- 
 ference would have been unjustifiable. 
 
 August 13th. We remained two hours longer than 
 
TO EL PASO. 369 
 
 usual this morning, to give, the mules a chance to feed. 
 Near us were some walls of old stone buildings, where 
 a number of stone arrow-heads, and clippings of jasper, 
 flint, and obsidian were found, showing that here had 
 been a work-shop of the natives. 
 
 A few weeks previous, a party of four Americans 
 was here surprised and surrounded by a band of some 
 15 or 20 Apaches. The men were armed with rifles 
 and pistols, which enabled them to keep the savages 
 at bay. Whenever the latter exposed themselves, the 
 Americans gave them a shot, and killed, as they be- 
 lieved, several. After being thus encompassed for three 
 days, protected in a measure from the arrows of the 
 enemy by a little wall which they raised, and after 
 they had all been wounded, one of their number crept 
 out at night and made his way to Correlitos, where he 
 applied for relief. It was granted ; but they were 
 compelled to pay $500 for it. 
 
 I ascended a hill near our camp, from which I could 
 trace the course of the Santa Maria, by the line of 
 trees along its . banks. A broad plain extended for 
 many miles on either side without a tree or a shrub. 
 
 Our course continued north-east, without change, 
 
 over the same level plain we had been traversing, of 
 
 clay or gravel, with occasional patches of grass and a 
 
 few mezquit bushes. Passed some holes of rain-water, 
 
 where we stopped to water our animals. The hills and 
 
 mountains, which here and there rose up from the plain, 
 
 were quite picturesque, the conical and pyramidal forms 
 
 prevailing with the hills ; while the mountains, which 
 
 Were from 1500 to 2000 feet high, presented the most 
 
 fantastic outlines, resembling castles, domes, and min- 
 vol. ii. — 24 
 
370 CORRELITOS 
 
 arets. Some of these were of a deep red, others of a 
 yellowish cast. There were no continuous ranges to 
 be seen ; but all were isolated, or in groups, rising 
 abruptly and extending but a few miles. 
 
 At 3 o'clock, the usual black cloud began to rise at 
 the south, portending rain, which warned us to make 
 our camp before it reached us. We took advantage 
 of a little patch of grass, where the animals might 
 obtain a scanty meal, and stopped. Every man with- 
 out exception, at once set to work ; and within a 
 very short space of time the tents were pitched, 
 trenches dug, and the camp-fires made. Scarcely was 
 this completed, when the storm was upon us ; and but 
 for the extra ropes and stays put to the tents, all 
 would have been blown away. But as it was, we sat 
 quietly within, listening to the peals of thunder, and 
 watching the vivid flashes of lightning. We needed 
 not to seek for a stream or a spring, for in a very few 
 minutes the depressions in the plain around our camp 
 furnished an ample supply, both for man and beast. 
 We made 18 miles to-day, over an excellent road. 
 The country around is of a most desolate character. 
 
 August 14:th. Six miles from camp brought us to a 
 hill, on which was a smooth rock covering about half 
 an acre, to the right of the road. In this rock I count- 
 ed twenty-six artificial cavities within a few feet of 
 each other. They were from twelve to eighteen inches 
 deep, and about six in diameter ; and had been dug 
 out by the Indians for mortars in which to pound their 
 maize. The place was thickly covered with various 
 kinds of cacti as well as the agave and yucca. The 
 common prickly pear abounded with its luscious look- 
 
TO EL PASO. . 371 
 
 ing" but unwholesome fruit, of which our men partook 
 with some caution.* 
 
 From the summit of this rocky hill, which is about 
 three hundred feet high, we had a fine view of the vast 
 plain around us, stretching in every direction as far as 
 the eye could reach, and unlimited by any continuous 
 range of mountains. Short isolated ridges rose up at 
 intervals of from ten to twenty miles, and between 
 them the conical hills before referred to. Immediate- 
 ly below, about a mile distant, was the Salado, or Salt 
 Lake, from two to four miles across ; although after 
 rains it is doubtless much larger. Some ten or fifteen 
 miles to the north-west, I noticed what appeared to be 
 another small lake, which may have been the Laguna 
 de Santa Maria. Although from its whitish appear- 
 ance, it may have been but the salt bed of a dry lake.f 
 I took a sketch of the country here, with a curious cone- 
 shaped hill in the foreground, on the summit of which 
 is a mass of rocks resembling a tower. Similarly crown- 
 ed hills were seen during the day's march. 
 
 We made a noon halt at some pools of fresh water 
 near the Salado ; as it was my intention to go as far as 
 possible to-day, so as to shorten the march of to-mor- 
 row, in which we did not expect to meet with any 
 
 * It is said that too much of this fruit will cause fever and ague. 
 Whether this be true or not, I cannot say ; although I do know, that 
 on several occasions, illness was produced by a too free use of it. 
 
 f In my former journeys, we frequently saw these playas, or dry 
 lakes ; and even when within a quarter of a mile, it was utterly impos- 
 sible to say, whether they contained water or not. On these occasions 
 the party would be equally divided in opinion, nor could all be satisfied 
 until we really touched them. 
 
372 CORRELITOS 
 
 water. We got off again at 4 o'clock, but had not gone 
 more than eight miles before the heavens began to be 
 obscured by a black cloud, which rose behind a lofty 
 pinnacled mountain on our right, one of the most singu- 
 lar and picturesque we had seen. Mr. Leroux rode 
 ahead with others, to search for a patch of grass, as the 
 plain around us was almost destitute of vegetation. 
 Fortunately he found a small one where the hungry 
 animals might obtain a scanty feed, a short distance in 
 advance, where we halted. We made but fifteen miles 
 to-day, a short march ; but in this, and many other 
 days' journeys, we were compelled to stop short of our 
 intended places of encampment, in order to get up our 
 tents and arrange the camp before the rain came on. 
 I stood guard this night, and found it rather uncom- 
 fortable, as it rained most of the time ; yet I made my 
 hourly rounds, stumbling several times over mules, 
 which I could not see in the darkness. 
 
 August 15th. Keeping a north-easterly course, our 
 whole day's march was over a broad plain with few 
 undulations, and no hills or mountains near; the road 
 good as before. The day was damp and cloudy. At 
 4 o'clock, p. m., we stopped, having travelled about 
 twenty miles. 
 
 We now approached the most dreaded portion of 
 our journey since crossing the Tucson desert, south of 
 the Gila. This was the Medanos, or Sand-hills. All 
 the emigrants we had met spoke of these, and the 
 great difficulties that attended their passage. By 
 doubling their ox-teams, that is, by putting from 12 
 to 15 oxen to each wagon, they had succeeded in 
 passing them. Two trips were thus required for each 
 

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TO EL PASO. 373 
 
 team, occupying the whole of two nights and one clay 
 to accomplish the passage, although but six miles across. 
 Owing to the intense heat and glare of the sun on the 
 white sand, the crossing was never attempted except 
 at night. We were now favored by the rain ; and it 
 was thought best, notwithstanding our day's march, to 
 make the passage of the hills this night; the weather 
 would be cooler and the sand more compact from the 
 rain. 
 
 The place where we stopped was about two miles 
 from the sand hills. We accordingly dined, and let 
 the animals feed, and at 7 o'clock, p. m., resumed our 
 march. Upon consultation, it was thought best for 
 Leroux to leave a couple of hours in advance of the 
 wagons with the train of pack-mules, and go as far as 
 Samalaynca, a spring two miles beyond the hills, in 
 case he could not find water nearer. He was then to 
 discharge his loads and return to the wagons, to give 
 us such aid as might be necessary. 
 
 The first three miles were not very bad ; for though 
 the sand was loose, it was not deep ; still it was a 
 steady pull up a gradual ascent. As we proceeded, 
 the sand grew deeper, and the vegetation less, until 
 nothing but a few half-buried mezquit bushes were to 
 be seen. An aromatic shrub was also noticed here. 
 
 At a great depth there is probably some moisture 
 which sustains these plants ; but even with this, it is 
 remarkable how they can survive in the midst of such 
 an intense and dry heat, in a spot where, for more than 
 nine months in the year, there is no rain. Every thing 
 around us had a strange wintry aspect, the white sand 
 resembling banks of snow, from which the tops of the 
 
374 CORRELITOS 
 
 bushes projected. At nine o'clock, Leroux returned 
 to us with the pack-mules, when we stopped and 
 unloaded the wagons, to transfer their contents to the 
 animals' backs. It was now raining fast ; and as the 
 mules had had a tedious inarch over the sand hills and 
 back, Leroux thought it best to remain where he was 
 until day-light, while we pushed forward with the 
 wagons, now almost empty. 
 
 Slowly and with hard tugging, we again advanced, 
 but not noiselessly ; for the incessant hooting and yell- 
 ing of the teamsters, accompanied by the cracking of 
 their huge whips, and not a few of those terrible oaths 
 which they seem to consider it their privilege to use, 
 made the air resound in the midst of the solitude that 
 reigned around us. At every fifty feet it was neces- 
 sary to stop, and let the tired animals breathe and get 
 a moment's rest ; then would the air resound again 
 with the screams of the men and the lashing of the 
 whips ; then was every shoulder literally put to the 
 wheels and the back parts of the wagons, before they 
 could again be started. But with all this pulling and 
 pushing, this hard swearing and beating, the poor 
 jaded animals often stalled, and could not, with all the 
 aid the men could give them, start the wagons an inch. 
 The team was then doubled; and when the twelve mules 
 had succeeded in hauling the wagon up some little rise, 
 the descent would prove a great relief, and enable 
 them to get forward a few rods unaided. 
 
 The reader will have an idea of the sand here, 
 when I state that the hub of the fore wheel was only 
 the breadth of my hand above its surface. This too, 
 was with wagons not half filled, and at a time when 
 
TO EL PASO. 375 
 
 the hills are easier to pass than at any other, on account 
 of the rain, which packs the sand, and prevents the 
 wheels from sinking as deep as they would if it was 
 entirely dry. 
 
 In this manner we pushed and pulled, making a 
 gradual though slow headway, until one o'clock, when 
 the mules refused to go further. The poor creatures 
 held their noses to the ground, and patiently bore the 
 beating of their cruel drivers. It was all to no pur- 
 pose ; further they would not go. In the five hours 
 we had been tugging, we had not made more than 
 four miles through the hills, and there were yet about 
 two miles more before we should get through. There 
 was no alternative left but to remain until morning, by 
 which time the animals would get a -few hours' rest. 
 As my carratella (little wagon) was quite light, and 
 my mules in good condition, I pushed forward, going 
 myself on foot, and before four o'clock in the morning 
 passed the hills, and reached the place where Mr. 
 Leroux had stopped with the packs. Several of the 
 wagons also managed to get through, leaving only 
 three behind. 
 
 This had been one of the most tedious nights of 
 our long journey. I was on my feet from 7 o'clock 
 in the evening, when we entered the sand-hills, till 
 four in the morning, making nine hours, in which time 
 we advanced but eight miles. It rained the whole 
 night ; yet such was my fatigue, that several times, 
 when the mules stopped to rest, or became stalled, I 
 threw myself on the wet sand and stole a few moments' 
 sleep. 
 
 On reaching camp, I sent back six mules, which, 
 
376 CORRELITOS 
 
 with those left with the wagons, enabled them all to 
 get through a few hours later. We did not go on to 
 the spring talked of, which was two miles further, but 
 stopped at some holes of rain water immediately at the 
 foot of the hills. 
 
 The Medanos, or Sand-hills, are a peculiar feature 
 in this country, stretching in a line from north-west to 
 south-east for some twenty miles, as far as I could 
 judge. Nearly destitute of vegetation, their light yel- 
 low or whitish appearance presents a strong contrast 
 to the deep brown of the adjacent mountains, which 
 form the background of the landscape. This sand is 
 very light and fine, and forms deep ridges resembling 
 the large waves of the ocean. When the wind blows, 
 this sand is set in motion, filling up the former valleys, 
 and forming new drifts or hills. The road is then 
 entirely obliterated ; not a foot-print or wagon rut 
 being left to show its direction. The whitened bones 
 of mules and cattle project here and there from the 
 sand, with an occasional carcass which has dried up 
 before the wolves discovered it. Although these hills 
 lie on the direct road from El Paso to the city of Chi- 
 huahua, which is shorter than any other by sixty miles, 
 it is invariably avoided by trains or loaded wagons. 
 These take the river route, which passes entirely 
 beyond their furthest southern extremity. Persons on 
 horseback, pack-mules, and light pleasure wagons, 
 alone attempt to cross the hills. 
 
 The place is also attended with danger on account 
 of the Apaches, who well know the helpless condition 
 of animals passing, and take the opportunity to attack 
 parties. From Correlitos, there is no other to El Paso 
 
TO EL PASO. 377 
 
 for wagons ; and a train loaded with corn from the 
 Casas Grandes valley, was attacked here a year before 
 by these savages, and all the mules driven off. The 
 distance travelled the last twenty-four hours from 
 beyond the Salado was twenty-eight miles, including 
 the passage of the Medanos. 
 
 August lQth. All, both men and animals, were so 
 much exhausted with fatigue, that we were compelled 
 to lie by to-day. In the afternoon, we had the usual 
 shower. 
 
 August 17th. Two miles brought us to the spring 
 known d^Samalayuca. It is a complete oasis in the 
 desert, and consists of a small pool of water, in and 
 around which are bushes and trees. It seems to be 
 placed here by nature, for the weary and thirsty trav- 
 eller, by whom the route would else be impassable. 
 On the west there is not usually any water nearer than 
 the Salado, thirty miles distant, which is also the dis- 
 tance of El Paso, the nearest point to the north. East- 
 ward is San Eleazario, twenty miles. 
 
 The rain of yesterday had made the road so heavy, 
 that I feared we should not reach El Paso as I wished. 
 But a few hours' heat of the sun so improved its con- 
 dition, that I determined to push on in advance of the 
 train ; and as we were near our journey's end for the 
 present, I did not hesitate to force my mules to their 
 utmost. We ascended gradually from the spring for 
 about ten miles, when we reached the level plateau, 
 which was as smooth and barren as any desert we had 
 seen. About ten miles from El Paso, the road descends 
 from the highest table to a lower terrace, and for five 
 miles continues over broken ground with low hills and 
 
378 CORRELITOS 
 
 gullies, when it strikes the bottom-land of the Rio 
 Grande. The sight of the rich valley of this river, 
 with its groves and forests of cotton-wood, filled my 
 mind with the most pleasing emotions. I was again 
 approaching civilization, at a place too where I had 
 passed an agreeable winter, and where I had many 
 kind friends. This long journey from the Pacific, 
 which had occupied us for eighty-one days, was now 
 at an end, and we should have a little rest. Soon the 
 cultivated fields and the vineyards opened before us, 
 and at 6 o'clock we again entered the town of El Paso 
 del Norte. The first familiar faces we met were those 
 of Captain Jimenes and some of the other officers of the 
 Mexican Commission. From them we learned that 
 Lieutenant Wilkins, the commanding officer of the U. S. 
 troops at El Paso, and Mr. Henry Jacobs, the disburs- 
 ing officer of the U. S. Commission, with a small file of 
 troops, had been out several miles to meet us, and had 
 just returned. They had heard of our approach by a 
 messenger whom I despatched two days before. After 
 some delays in fording the Rio Grande, I reached my 
 old quarters at Magoffinsville, opposite the town, at 10 
 o'clock, P. M. 
 
 August 18th. The remainder of the party were 
 unable to get through last night, and came in this 
 morning. 
 
 Of this journey, now concluded, which embraced 
 about eleven hundred miles, about one half was per- 
 formed while the thermometer ranged above 100° 
 during the day, and the other half when there was 
 scarcely a day without a heavy rain. To Lieutenant 
 Whipple, the chief engineer and astronomer in charge 
 
TO EL PASO. 379 
 
 of the survey of the Gila, and his several assistants, the 
 government and the country cannot award too much 
 praise for its successful accomplishment under such 
 privations, and hardships, together with so many and 
 such serious difficulties. 
 
 As regards the health of the party on this journey 
 from California, it was generally good. A few cases of 
 scurvy occurred among the escort ; and during the last 
 two weeks before reaching El Paso, many began to be 
 afflicted with rheumatism, and fever and ague, from 
 their constant exposure for thirty-four days to rains. 
 There were also some cases of bowel complaints from 
 time to time ; but all readily yielded to medicine. One 
 most painful casualty it was our lot to meet with, in 
 the death of the excellent officer and friend who com- 
 manded our escort, Colonel Lewis S. Craig. 
 
SIXTH DIVISION. 
 
 EL PASO TO THE GULF OF MEXICO. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVII. 
 
 INCIDENTS AT EL PASO DEL NORTE. 
 
 Preparation for completing the Survey of the Southern Boundary of New 
 Mexico — Withdrawal of the military from El Paso — Importance of El 
 Paso as a military post — Its business — Encroachments of the Apaches — 
 Depredations of the Comanches — Suggestions for a better protection of 
 the frontier — Colonel Langberg — Visit to Fort Fillmore — The Mesilla 
 valley — Visit to the Organ Mountains — Silver mine — Grand scenery — 
 Return — Bracito and its battle-field — Preparations for leaving El Paso 
 — Mail party attacked by the Comanches — Decide to go by way of 
 Chihuahua — Laxity of the Mexican Custom House — Departure of 
 Lieutenant Whipple and party for the Gila — Organization of parties. 
 
 The first step now to be taken was to close up all the 
 business of the Commission, and to prepare for joining 
 the surveying parties on the lower Rio Grande. I had 
 advices here from Major Emory, the principal Surveyor 
 of the Commission, advising me of the progress made 
 on that portion of the line. Two parties had been 
 actively engaged in the work ; and Major E. believed 
 the survey would be completed as far as Loredo by 
 
382 INCIDENTS AT 
 
 October, and the whole line to the mouth of the river 
 by the 4th of March, 1853, if no unforeseen obstacle 
 was placed in the way. 
 
 There yet remained to be completed that portion 
 of the line on the parallel of 32° 22' north latitude, 
 which was to extend west three degrees from the Rio 
 Grande, and thence north to the Gila. Of this line 
 Lieutenant Whipple, while acting as chief astronomer, 
 had surveyed and laid down with great minuteness 
 about one half, and had also determined and marked 
 its western termination. I now directed the same 
 officer to organize a party, and as soon as the train could 
 be got ready to take the field again, to resume and com- 
 plete the survey of the line referred to, in the same 
 manner in which he had begun it. 
 
 The next step was to prepare for the return of my- 
 self and party, to rejoin Major Emory at Eagle Pass 
 (Fort Duncan). More wagons had to be procured for 
 Lieutenant Whipple as well as for myself; and all those 
 that had come through from California required more 
 or less repairs. The harness, tents, and camp equi- 
 page too required a thorough overhauling ; as the con- 
 tinued wet weather and constant marching had told 
 severely on every thing. I was so fortunate as to find 
 mechanics here, who were at once employed and set 
 to work. In the mean time the mules had to be 
 brought to a condition fit to undertake as long a jour- 
 ney as that they had just completed. They were, 
 therefore, given rations of corn and sent to the moun- 
 tain near, where there was grama grass in abundance. 
 But they had become so thin, that many weeks would 
 be necessary, under the best care, to bring them up. 
 
EL PASO DEL NORTE. 
 
 383 
 
 I was sorry to find on my arrival, that the military 
 post, which was here when I left the year before, had 
 been broken up and the troops withdrawn, with the 
 exception only of a small detachment under Lieutenant 
 Wilkins, which was quartered at Mr. Magoffin's rancho, 
 in the same building where I was. To the regret of 
 all the inhabitants, even this small force was withdrawn 
 a few weeks after.* 
 
 Military Post, El Paso. 
 
 * The town of El Paso del Norte, so frequently alluded to, is on the 
 Mexican side of the river. On the American side there was no settle- 
 ment until after the war, and the rich bottoms were but partially cul- 
 tivated or suffered to run to waste. At present, there are three settle- 
 ments here, viz., Mr, Coon's ranch with its adjoining buildmgs, which 
 was formerly the military post ; Mr. Stevenson's ranch, with another 
 croup of buildings; and MagofBnsville. This last is now the principal 
 
384 INCIDENTS AT 
 
 The Apaches had been more bold than usual dur- 
 ing the spring and summer of 1852 ; and the whole 
 frontier had suffered from their inroads. Many men 
 had been killed within a few miles of El Paso ; and at 
 the astronomical observatory, at Frontera, eight miles 
 distant, a man was pierced with arrows while herding 
 the animals within a few rods of the house. Mr. Magof- 
 fin's corral had been several times entered, and his 
 mules stolen ; and many other citizens there had been 
 sufferers. On two occasions, while I remained at Magof- 
 finsville, the Indians made attempts to run off the 
 animals of the Commission, but were frustrated, by 
 being discovered in time to prevent the stampede. 
 No one could venture alone, with safety, three miles 
 from the settlement, and when I went to take a ride, 
 if it was extended as far as three miles, I felt it neces- 
 sary to be accompanied by several friends. Such was 
 the state of the Mexican frontier in 1852. 
 
 As the question has been repeatedly asked, What is 
 to be done with the large tribes of Indians on the 
 Mexican frontier ? and as there is still a diversity of 
 opinion on the subject, I shall take the present occa- 
 sion to make a few suggestions, based upon what I 
 
 settlement, and represents the American El Paso. It consists of a large 
 square, around which are substantial adobe buildings of a bettter de- 
 scription than usual, embracing some six or eight large stores and ware- 
 houses, well filled with merchandise. This town is admirably situated, 
 and belongs wholly to James W. Magoffin, Esq., an American, long 
 resident in Mexico, whose energy and public spirit will undoubtedly 
 make it the principal place on the frontier. Its position, as astronomi- 
 cally determined by Lt. Whipple, is, Latitude North, 31° 46' 05" 5. 
 Longitude West from Greenwich, 1° 5' 24 /x . Distance due South to 
 the centre of the channel of the Rio Grande, 2,226 feet. 
 
EL PASO DEL NORTE. 385 
 
 have learned from personal observation, and my inter- 
 course with the Indians. 
 
 It is known that we already have along this fron- 
 tier, but chiefly in the State of Texas and the territory 
 of New Mexico, a large military force, embracing full 
 two-thirds of the army, which is supported at an enor- 
 mous expense. Military posts have been established 
 at various points on the Rio Grande, and in the very 
 heart of the Indian country, in Texas, and New- 
 Mexico. Yet two of the largest and most widely 
 spread tribes, the Comanches and the Apaches, are as 
 actively hostile to the Americans and the Mexicans as 
 they were before the country occupied by them, be- 
 came a part of the Union. At no period have the 
 incursions been more frequent, or attended with greater 
 atrocities, than at the present time. The Comanches 
 pass across the Rio Grande into Mexico, in bands of 
 300 or 400, and penetrate the very heart of Chihuahua ; 
 they have passed into Durango and Zacatecas, and have 
 traversed Coahuila and Nueva Leon. The extent of the 
 depredations and murders committed by them would be 
 appalling, if summed up.* Yet the system flourishes 
 in full vigor, notwithstanding the efforts made to sup- 
 press it on the. part of the United States, in compliance 
 with the solemn stipulations of the Treaty with 
 Mexico. 
 
 The depredations of the Apaches are less serious, 
 only because their numbers are less, and they have a 
 more thinly settled country for their operations. In 
 
 * Some idea of the extent to which, this predatory warfare is carried 
 on, can be formed from the following report of the amount of stock stolen 
 by the Indians in the territory of ISTew Mexico, from the 1st of August, 
 vol. ii. — 25 
 
386 INCIDENTS AT 
 
 Mexico these are confined to the northern portions of 
 the States of Sonora and Chihuahua. These regions, 
 once inhabited by a peaceful and happy population, 
 are now deserted, and the fertile valleys they tilled 
 are reverting to the condition of a wilderness. 
 
 The numbers of both these tribes have been, in my 
 opinion, much overrated. That of the Comanches, 
 from the most reliable information I could obtain, 
 falls short of 12,000. Their range is from the Mexican 
 States alluded to, to the Buffalo region, north and east of 
 Santa Fe. In the fall and winter season their home is 
 near the Rio Grande, in the Bolson de Mapimi, a vast 
 basin shut in by high mountains at the west. Here 
 they enjoy uninterrupted possession of a wide extent 
 of country, whence they make their sallies into the 
 heart of Mexico. The Apaches, whose number 
 does not exceed 5000,* extend from the vicinity of 
 the Pecos through the States of Chihuahua, Sonora, 
 
 1846, to the 1st of October, 1850, as taken by the Assistant-Marshals 
 of the United States : 
 
 Counties. Sheep. Mules. Horses. Horned Cattle. 
 
 Santa Fe 16,260 570 267 894 
 
 Taos 17,080 1,032 1,764 5,600 
 
 Rio Arriba 43,580 1,960 658 2,382 
 
 San Miguel 50,000 7,000 3,000 21,000 
 
 Santa Ana and) m 915 Y 49 987 1,302 
 
 .Bernardo \ ' 
 
 Valencia 171,558 376 372 1,463 
 
 Total, 453,293 12,887 7,050 31,581 
 
 * It is no easy matter to form a correct estimate of the number of 
 Indians in a tribe, unless they are actually counted. This is evident 
 from the varying reports of different agents and travellers. In the tables 
 of the Indian population of the United States, in. Mr. Schoolcraft's great 
 
EL PASO DEL NORTE. 387 
 
 and the territory of New Mexico, to the confines of 
 the Colorado of the West. They are less nomadic 
 in their habits than the Comanches, and have districts 
 in which their families permanently reside. 
 
 This tribe, from the time they are first mentioned 
 by Father Kino, in the year 1694, have been a nation 
 of robbers. Their hand is against every other tribe, 
 and that of all others against them. It was they who 
 drove out the peaceable people and semi-civilized 
 tribes from the Gila, and destroyed the builders of the 
 ancient edifices we have spoken of. Every account we 
 have represents them as a treacherous and blood- 
 thirsty people, living by plunder alone. They have 
 made repeated treaties with the States of Sonora and 
 Chihuahua, only to be broken on the first favorable 
 opportunity ; and the treaties recently made with the 
 United States have been as little regarded. 
 
 I proposed to the principal chiefs that they should 
 abandon cattle-stealing, and cultivate the ground ; 
 telling them if they would do so, the U. S. government 
 would instruct and protect them, giving them blankets 
 and clothing besides. The old chiefs said they could 
 not adopt this new fashion, although the boys and 
 
 work, the Comanches are variously set down, from the year 1846 to 
 1850, at from 12,000 to 20,000. The Apaches embrace so many bands, 
 and are so widely scattered, that it is extremely difficult to enumerate them. 
 Mr. Schoolcraft, from the latest authorities, puts the Apache bands in Texas 
 at 3500 in New Mexico at 6000, and in the unexplored parts north of 
 the Gila at 2000, making altogether 11,500; which I think too high- 
 It is unusual to find 200 of them together ; and throughout the States 
 of Sonora and Chihuahua, I heard of the same chiefs that we met and 
 with whom we kept up so long an intercourse at the Copper Mines, and 
 who were, of course, accompanied by the same bands. 
 
388 INCIDENTS AT 
 
 young men might do so. They said they would not 
 rob or murder the Americans, but could not be brought 
 to promise the same with regard to the Mexicans. 
 
 What, then, is absolutely necessary, for the sake of 
 these Indians themselves as well as of our frontier 
 population, is to convince them of the overwhelming 
 superiority of force on our side ; and to show them 
 that, if they wish to escape utter extermination, they 
 must lay aside their predatory habits, and learn to 
 live by the labor of their own hands. 
 
 To effect this, a change should be made in the 
 system pursued at the frontier posts. Soldiers should 
 not go into quarters, and then quietly remain devoting 
 themselves to agriculture. Better would it be for the 
 government to pay double the price it now does for 
 its wheat and corn, than to employ the soldiers in 
 cultivating it; for the consequence of the present 
 system is, that by their attending to the fields, they 
 become unfitted for and neglect their proper duty 
 as soldiers. 
 
 I would suggest, that with the opening of the 
 spring, the soldiers should leave their quarters, and be 
 kept moving from one point to another. Let them be 
 a few days in a mountain pass, next at some oasis in 
 the desert whither the savage must resort to satisfy his 
 parching thirst, and again in some of those beautiful 
 valleys covered with luxuriant grass, which are also 
 his resort after his predatory excursions, that he may 
 recruit his animals. This active life would be much 
 more agreeable and healthy for the men than the 
 inactivity of a garrison, and would tend more to 
 overawe and subdue the Indians. 
 
EL PASO DEL NORTE. 389 
 
 A difficulty arises when the Indians, on being 
 pursued, take refuge in Mexico, where our troops 
 cannot follow them. Some arrangement should be 
 entered into by which small bodies of U. S. soldiers 
 may be permitted, on such occasions, to enter Mexican 
 territory within prescribed limits. This plan would 
 be agreeable to the Mexican authorities, as they 
 informed me. 
 
 I have no doubt that much might yet be accom- 
 plished by sending suitable agents among the Indians ; 
 men who are at heart philanthropists, and who will ear- 
 nestly engage in the work of ameliorating their condi- 
 tion. Much good could be done, too, by sending 
 mechanics among them, particularly carpenters and 
 blacksmiths, also a supply of implements of husbandry. 
 Most of the tribes beyond the Rio Grande are more or 
 less agriculturists; and an attempt should be made to 
 bring the wild Apaches and Comanches into the same 
 condition. The pursuit most immediately adapted to 
 their nature and habits would be the raising of cattle 
 and mules ; a business which they could most profit- 
 ably pursue, and which they fully understand already. 
 The rising generation could be advanced a step 
 further, and taught the first principles of agricul- 
 ture. 
 
 A plan has been proposed in California to drive 
 all the tribes of that country to New Mexico. This is 
 wrong ; and the project ought not, for a moment, to be 
 entertained. As a writer on the subject remarks, 
 it would be " turning New Mexico into an area for 
 the mutual extermination of the Indians, or else driv- 
 ing a portion of them from their old homes to join the 
 
390 INCIDENTS AT 
 
 predatory bands which are now desolating that coun- 
 try. The policy of concentration is a pernicious one, 
 and can have but one result : it will stimulate their 
 fondness for war, and render necessary an armed and 
 an annihilating protection to our citizens. Besides 
 this, there is but little game in that country, and the 
 arable lands could not support such numbers as would 
 be brought into it if the plan should be carried out. 
 
 The onlv excursion I was able to make, while 
 waiting for the train to be got ready, was to Fort 
 Fillmore. Towards the close of September, Colonel 
 Langberg of the Mexican army, and military inspector 
 of the frontier, proposed to me to visit Colonel Miles, 
 commanding at that Fort ; I gladly took advantage of 
 the opportunity. 
 
 On the day appointed I took my carriage, and, 
 accompanied by Colonel Langberg, Dr. Webb, Mr. H. 
 Jacobs, and ten dragoons, set off for Fort Fillmore, 
 about 45 miles distant from El Paso ; which we reach- 
 ed at sunset, and where we were politely received by 
 Colonel Miles and the officers with him. 
 
 This Fort was established in 1851, when the 
 military posts at Dona Ana and El Paso were aban- 
 doned ; as it was thought that its position was 
 better than either of those, and that it would be 
 sufficient for this frontier. It contained at the time 
 of our visit about two hundred soldiers, infantry and 
 dragoons, under the command of Colonel Miles of the 
 3d Infantry. It occupied a commanding position 
 above the bottom-lands ; whence the valley of the Rio 
 Grande can be seen for many miles. Nearly opposite 
 is the town of Mesilla : and extending above and 
 
EL PASO DEL NORTE. 391 
 
 below it, is that portion of the bottom-lands known as 
 the "Mesilla Valley,"* which is now occupying the 
 public attention, as connected with the boundary dis- 
 
 * Mesilla is the derivative of the Spanish mesa, table ; and, as here 
 applied, means a small plateau, or table-land, to distinguish it from the 
 great table-land which extends for many hundred miles on both sides of 
 the Rio Grande, and which is not susceptible of cultivation. It was 
 without an inhabitant until the year 1850. 
 
 At the close of the war with Mexico, the majority of the inhabitants 
 of Dona Ana determined to leave that place, in consequence of the 
 encroachments of the Americans, who endeavoured to despoil them of 
 their property. Whether the Mexican occupants of the town and lands 
 adjacent were the lawful owners or not, it is needless to inquire ; it is 
 sufficient to say that they had long been in undisturbed possession. 
 
 With this resolution, a spot was selected on the opposite or western 
 side of the river, eight or ten miles below Dona Ana, which, it was 
 believed, would be within the limits of Mexico. In the month of May, 
 1850, this people established themselves there, and named the place 
 "La Mesilla." To increase the colony, the government of Mexico 
 offered to give lands to other actual settlers; which offer induced large 
 numbers of dissatisfied Mexicans living in New Mexico and in the 
 small settlements along the Rio Grande, in Texas, to remove thither. 
 More than half the population of Dona Ana removed to Mesilla within 
 a year. 
 
 When the boundary line was agreed upon, in December, 1850, and 
 it became certain that La Mesilla was south of it, the fears they had 
 begun to entertain were removed, and a day was set apart for public re- 
 joicing. After this, the population increased much on account of the 
 inducements offered; and in October, 1852, the Prefect of El Paso 
 stated that it numbered 1,900 souls. 
 
 Very few Americans settled there — in fact, none but traders ; and it 
 is probable there never were twenty altogether. 
 
 Last summer (1853) some speculators attempted the same imposi- 
 tions as were practised when they were citizens of New Mexico, by 
 claiming their lands. This created such dissatisfaction, that they threat- 
 ened to leave, and again become citizens of the United States. At this 
 
392 INCIDENTS AT 
 
 pute. The town of Cruces is about three, and Dona Ana 
 about eleven miles further up the valley. The bottom- 
 lands are exceedingly fertile on both banks of the 
 river ; and I am not aware that they are better situ- 
 ated or more productive on one bank than on the 
 other. The barracks at Fort Fillmore are as yet 
 quite rude, being mere jackals, that is, built of upright 
 sticks tilled in with mud. They were hastily put up ; 
 but it is the intention of Colonel Miles to have more 
 substantial buildings of adobe erected forthwith. There 
 is no better material in this country for buildings than 
 this. 
 
 I took the opportunity while at Fort Fillmore to 
 visit a silver mine, which had been discovered a few 
 months previous, and which was now being worked by 
 its owner, Hugh Stevenson, Esq., of El Paso. The mine 
 is situated in the Organ Mountains, about eighteen 
 miles east of the Fort ; and as these mountains are the 
 haunts of the Apaches, Colonel Miles kindly furnished 
 us with an escort of ten dragoons, commanded by Major 
 Steen, an officer familiar with this region, and expe- 
 rienced in Indian campaigns. 
 
 By taking an early start we reached the nearest 
 point in the mountains, about twelve miles distant, 
 before 10 o'clock, having traversed a desert plain with 
 a gradual ascent the whole way. On reaching a defile 
 which leads across the ridge. ' Major Steen and Dr. 
 Webb took a portion of the dragoons and went to the 
 
 time some mischievous persons put the idea into their heads of saving 
 their property by denying the jurisdiction of Mexico ; and this is doubt- 
 less the foundation of the statement that they desire to be annexed to 
 the United States. 
 

EL PASO DEL NORTE. 
 
 393 
 
 mine, which was about five miles farther to the north, 
 while I remained with the rest to examine the defile. 
 I then took my rifle, and walked a couple of miles 
 through it and the deep gorges which indent the ridge. 
 In this ramble I passed a beautiful little stream, which, 
 rising far within the defile, wound its way along through 
 
 
 Organ Mountains 
 
 many intricacies, where it had worn for itself a deep 
 bed, until it tumbled over the rocks in a single fall of 
 some fifty feet. Although the quantity of water was 
 small, the fall was exceedingly picturesque. When far 
 up in this mountain, whither I was led with some of 
 
394 INCIDENTS AT 
 
 the dragoons in pursuit of a deer, we saw fresh Indian 
 tracks ; and not knowing but an arrow or a lance 
 might be thrown at us from behind some rock or bush, 
 we thought it best to return. 
 
 The "Sierra de los Organos," or Organ Mountains, are 
 so named from their pinnacled summits and sides, which 
 resemble the pipes of an organ. They are of a light 
 gray granite, and rise to the height of 3000 feet above 
 the river. The range runs north and south, and joins 
 the El Paso Mountains, not far from the town of that 
 name. The defiles are filled with large pines, and the 
 more open valley, with live-oaks. Pine timber is here 
 cut and drawn by mules to where it can be reached 
 with wagons. 
 
 From the place where we halted and lunched, 
 I took a sketch of these mountains and of the defile 
 through which I had passed. A small stream flowed 
 near us, marked by a line of fine large oaks. Midway 
 between this spot and the mountains rises a bold mass 
 of white granite. 
 
 In the afternoon Major Steen and Dr. Webb 
 returned from the silver mine, bringing specimens of 
 the ore. We then harnessed and saddled up for our 
 return to the Fort, which we reached at nine o'clock. 
 
 We passed a few days very agreeably at Fort Fill- 
 more, partaking of the hospitalities of Colonel Miles 
 and his officers. This visit, too, was rendered doubly 
 agreeable, by the society of four American ladies, be- 
 longing to the families of the officers, who had had the 
 courage to accompany the army on its toilsome march 
 of three months across the plains. These were the 
 only American ladies I had met between San Antonio 
 
EL PASO DEL NORTE. 395 
 
 and the Pacific coast, and were, I believe, the only ones 
 on this portion of the frontier. 
 
 On our return we made a noon halt on the banks 
 of the river, near the spot where the gallant Doniphan 
 won his first laurels, the battle-field of Bracito. Al- 
 though this place is laid down on the maps, there is no 
 town nor even a single habitation to mark the spot. 
 The battle was fought on an open plain, the very last 
 place one would expect the Mexicans to choose for 
 meeting an invading army, unless confident, as it ap- 
 pears they were, of overwhelming them at once. Had 
 the Mexicans taken a stand in the mountain pass, they 
 might have given some trouble ; but even then they 
 could only have retarded a little the progress of the con- 
 querors.* 
 
 * I quote from Colonel Doniphan's despatch a brief account of this 
 affair : — " On the 23d of March, we commenced our march from Dona 
 Ana ; and on the 25th, our advance of 500 men had halted for the pur- 
 pose of camping, about three o'clock. Our men were engaged in getting 
 wood and water, when our advanced guard informed us the enemy was 
 rapidly advancing at a short distance. The rear, under Colonel Jackson, 
 was several miles behind ; the rally was immediately sounded, and our 
 forces formed in open order on foot as skirmishers. The enemy halted 
 at half a mile, and formed in line of battle. Before we had fully formed, 
 they sent a lieutenant near our lines with a black flag, with a demand 
 that the commander of our forces should go to their lines and confer with 
 their commander ; declaring, at the same time, unless it was complied 
 with, they would charge and take him, and neither ask nor give quarter. 
 The reply was more abrupt than decorous — 'To charge, and be d — d.' 
 At the return of the black flag, the enemy commenced his charge, and 
 opened a fire on us from right to left, at about 400 yards. Our forces 
 were ordered to receive their fire without returning it, until it could 
 prove effective. Three rounds were fired by the whole line, before they had 
 advanced within rifle shot. I then ordered their fire to be returned. This 
 
396 INCIDENTS AT 
 
 It had been my intention, when leaving El Paso, to 
 take the San Antonio road as far as the Leona station, . 
 about six hundred miles, and there turn off to Eagle 
 Pass, where I expected to meet Major Emory ; and for 
 this journey all my arrangements were made. The 
 military escort was alone wanting, and this was one 
 object of my visit to Fort Fillmore, where a portion 
 of the company originally detailed for the purpose 
 were waiting orders. Much to my disappointment I 
 found there but twenty-four effective men belonging to 
 the company, a number barely sufficient for an escort 
 for Lieutenant Whipple. 
 
 In this position, I was at a loss what course to take, 
 or how to get out of the country. Every small party 
 coming through from San Antonio had been attacked 
 by the Comanches ; and accounts had reached El Paso 
 that bands of three hundred warriors had been seen. 
 At no time had there been so much alarm felt ; and I 
 was advised, by the army officers and others, who 
 knew the state of the country, not to attempt the jour- 
 ney, with so small a party as mine, without an escort. 
 The officers and men of the Commission, myself includ- 
 ed, had performed guard duty from the Pimo villages 
 to El Paso ; and we did not feel disposed to do it again 
 on the long march to Eagle Pass. At this juncture 
 
 was done from right to left, along the whole line simultaneously, which 
 completely checked their advance, and threw them into great disorder. 
 A charge was now made, when the enemy fled to the mountains con- 
 tiguous. The force of the enemy was 1220, of which 537 were caval- 
 ry. * * * The loss of the enemy was 43 killed, and 150 reported at 
 El Paso to be wounded. Our loss was none killed — V wounded ; all 
 since recovered." 
 
EL PASO DEL NORTE. 397 
 
 Colonel Langberg kindly tendered me an escort of 
 Mexican soldiers, in case I would take the route by 
 the city of Chihuahua, and thence through the States 
 of Durango, Coahuila, Nueva Leon, and Tamaulipas, to 
 such point as I wished to reach on the Lower Rio 
 Grande. This offer, after due consideration, I accept- 
 ed, and advised Major Emory of my decision, request- 
 ing him to meet me at a point lower down the river 
 than Eagle Pass, which would probably be Comargo. 
 
 About this time the mail party from San Antonio 
 arrived. They had been attacked and surrounded by 
 a large body of Indians ; but had kept their assailants 
 at bay for several days, by entrenching themselves 
 behind some rocks. This party consisted of men cele- 
 brated as Indian fighters, and was commanded by Mr. 
 Wallace, one of the most intrepid and experienced 
 men on the frontier. Every Indian who exposed him- 
 self was instantly brought down by a shot from the 
 unerring rifle, until they were actually driven from the 
 field. Mr. Wallace returned to San Antonio, procured 
 a new outfit, and strengthened his party ; he then set 
 out again, and came through with the mail in safety. 
 
 During my stay here, one of those events took place 
 which are not unusual on the Mexican frontier, and 
 which sometimes produce a rupture between the Mexi- 
 can government and its people. 
 
 It is known that the duty of sixty per cent, imposed 
 by Mexico on many articles of merchandise, amounts to 
 a prohibition. Yet, owing to the laxity of the custom- 
 house officials, the law has been evaded, and goods 
 regularly admitted at a mere nominal rate. Each col- 
 lector knows that if he exacts the legal duty, either the 
 
398 INCIDENTS AT 
 
 merchandise will be smuggled in, or some brother-col- 
 lector, less conscientious and more anxious to pocket 
 the fees, will be ready to compound for a smaller sum. 
 It accordingly became the practice to admit trains of 
 merchandise for the interior of Mexico by paying five 
 hundred dollars on each wagon load. This free and easy 
 way of doing business had certainly the advantage of 
 saving clerk hire, as well as removing the necessity of 
 examining invoices, and all. contention as to the cost or 
 value of goods. 
 
 A leading merchant of the city of Chihuahua, who 
 for some reason had become inimical to the govern- 
 ment, had a train of some sixty or seventy wagons and 
 carts filled with goods, on its way from San Antonio 
 to that city, by the way of the Presidio del Norte. The 
 authorities, being informed of the approach of the train, 
 were determined that it should not pass without a 
 thorough examination and payment of the full duties; 
 to insure which, a military force was sent to the cross- 
 ing place. In consequence of this unlooked-for obsta- 
 cle, the whole train came up to El Paso, about two hun- 
 dred miles out of its way, for the purpose of entering 
 here ; but the military force, which was under the 
 command of Colonel Langberg, was ordered hither also, 
 to prevent the entry of the goods except at the full 
 duty. The collector of El Paso was disposed to pass 
 the goods after the usual convenient fashion, in which 
 he was supported by the merchants and municipal 
 authorities of the place ; while Colonel Langberg, act- 
 ing under orders from the capital, was determined that 
 they should not, and declared his intention to arrest 
 and imprison the collector, Don Alejo Garcia Conde, 
 
EL PASO DEL NORTE. 399 
 
 if he did not strictly enforce the legal duties. The 
 collector armed himself and his party, and the train 
 prepared to cross and fight their way through. As 
 might be supposed, there was great excitement, and it 
 was feared blood would be shed ; but the affair passed 
 off quietly. The train crossed the river, each teamster 
 armed with a whip and rifle ; and to avoid a conflict, 
 Colonel Langberg sent an armed guard with the train 
 to Chihuahua, which was followed by the collector, 
 to settle the difficulty there. 
 
 On the 1st of October, Lieutenant Whipple took 
 his departure, to complete the survey of the line form- 
 ing the southern boundary of New Mexico, before 
 referred to. 
 
 Lieut. A. W. Whipple, Corps Top. Eng., Astronomer in Command. 
 
 Hugh Campbell, First Assistant. 
 
 Frank Wheaton, Assistant and Topographer. 
 
 William White, Jr., Assistant. 
 
 George G. Garner, Do. 
 
 These, with sixteen men as instrument carriers, mechan- 
 ics, laborers, teamsters, servants, arrieros, etc., made 
 the party. He had also a military escort of twenty-four 
 men. They were all mounted, save the soldiers ; while 
 both wagons and pack-mules furnished the necessary 
 transportation. 
 
 My own party, then about to leave, comprised, — 
 
 Dr. Thomas H. Webb, Sec. of the Joint Commission and Surgeon. 
 Henry Jacobs, Assistant Secretary and Disbursing Agent. 
 
 George Thurber, Acting Quarter-Master and Commissary, 
 
 and Botanist. 
 Henry C. Pratt, Draughtsman and Artist. 
 
400 INCIDENTS AT EL PASO DEL NORTE. 
 
 The following gentlemen, belonging to the engineer 
 corps, accompanied me, to join Major Emory and enter 
 upon their duties on the lower Rio Grande. 
 
 Charles Radziminski, Principal Assistant Surveyor. 
 
 Malcolm Seaton, Assistant Do. 
 
 Henry C. Force, Do. Do. 
 
 John J. Pratt, of Lieut. Whipple's party, returning on account of ill 
 
 health. 
 Wm. Ferguson, Carpenter. 
 
 Six teamsters, one carriage driver, and six men as 
 servants, cooks, laborers, and herdsmen. 
 
EL PASO TO CHIHUAHUA. 401 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVIII 
 
 EL PASO TO CHIHUAHUA. 
 
 Departure from El Paso — Accident at the start — Farewell to friends — San 
 Eleazario — Fording the Eio Grande — -Wagon upset — Guadalupe — 
 Ascend the Table-land — Grassy plains and open country — Ojo de Lucero 
 — Laguna de los Patos — Country overflowed — "Wagon mired — More 
 accidents — Carrizal — Ojo Caliente — Rio Carmen — Encounter with the 
 Apaches — A man killed — Animals lost — Ojo de Callejo — Mexican 
 soldiers — Precautions to avoid a surprise — Laguna de Encinillas — El 
 Penol — El Sauz — Rio Sacramento — Battle field — Notice of the battle — 
 Arrival at Chihuahua. 
 
 October 6th. All being in readiness to start, the 
 
 train drew ujd in front of Mr. Magoffin's store-house, to 
 
 take in a supply of corn. While standing here, the 
 
 mules, which had not been in harness for six weeks or 
 
 more, became uneasy, and, turning suddenly round, 
 
 broke off two of the wagon tongues ; which compelled 
 
 us to wait another day for repairs. 
 
 There is no grass along the river after leaving 
 
 Isleta. This made it necessary to send off a wagon 
 
 load of corn, to be delivered to us about eighty miles 
 
 ahead. In addition to this, each team carried a few 
 
 bags. 
 
 vol. ii.— 26 
 
402 EL PASO 
 
 October Yth. The broken tongues being replaced, 
 the train moved off in the afternoon, in charge of Mr. 
 George Thurber, intending to go as far as Isleta, 12 
 miles distant. 
 
 October 8th. The day had now arrived when I 
 was to take leave of my friends at El Paso. Friends 
 at home, where we have numbers, are not always 
 valued as they should be ; but in a country like this, 
 on the borders of civilization, one knows how to appre- 
 ciate them. I had now been here seven weeks, and 
 during the winter of 1850-51, five months, while wait- 
 ing the arrival of the chief astronomer. With many 
 gentlemen here, particularly J. W. Magoffin, Esq., I 
 had transacted business to a large extent, and in a 
 manner which to me, as an agent of the government, 
 was highly satisfactory. To them I take this occasion 
 to express my sincere thanks for the promptness with 
 which they fulfilled my orders, often to their own 
 inconvenience, and for their uniform readiness in accept- 
 ing my drafts upon the government, when a contrary 
 course would have been detrimental to the public ser- 
 vice, and would have subjected me personally to 
 serious embarrassments. 
 
 On the occasion of our departure, Mr. Magoffin 
 invited a number of gentlemen to partake of a cold 
 collation, which proved to be one that would have 
 done credit to the caterer of a metropolitan hotel. 
 Although it is difficult at times to procure a piece of 
 fresh meat at El Paso, the delicacies prepared in New 
 York and Paris for foreign markets can always be found 
 ihere in abundance, though at a high cost. 
 
 I left at one o'clock, and in the evening joined the 
 
TO CHIHUAHUA. 403 
 
 train at San Eleazario,* where I passed my first night 
 in camp. 
 
 October 9 th. The reloading of some of the wagons 
 detained us here several hours, and my troubles with 
 the men began. My cook took the opportunity to get 
 drunk during the night, and for his bad conduct was 
 put in the calaboose. By the aid of my friends here 
 I was enabled to find a good substitute, and we soon 
 after took up our march. The train consisted of my 
 travelling carriage, a very convenient vehicle, which 
 was to form my sleeping-place during the journey; 
 the small wagon I brought from California, in which 
 Dr. Webb rode ; and six other wagons containing our 
 provisions, baggage, tents, camp equipage, instruments, 
 etc. All the party were mounted on horses or mules, 
 and well armed ; and for a change I had also provided 
 myself with a riding mule. We got off at noon and 
 made fourteen miles, encamping near a pool of water. 
 Our route, most of the way, was along the Rio Grande, 
 over a rich bottom, of which only a small portion was 
 under cultivation. 
 
 October lOtJi. I rode on in advance with several 
 others to examine the crossing, as it was necessary to 
 ford the Rio Grande here. To my surprise I found 
 the banks very precipitous ; and as the river was here 
 much contracted, it was proportionably deep and rapid. 
 With considerable difficulty and some risk I crossed in 
 my carriage ; and then, seeing the danger that would 
 
 * This name is also spelt San Elceario, Avhich is, I believe, the 
 original and correct mode. But as it is invariably pronounced Eleazario, 
 and so written, by the people, I have adopted that orthography. 
 
404 EL PASO 
 
 attend the wagons, both in descending and ascending 
 the steep banks, as well as in crossing the river, I 
 hired a Mexican to take a note back to Mr. Thurber, 
 who was with the train, advising him to send men for- 
 ward with spades and pickaxes, to cut down the banks 
 before the wagons should attempt to pass. ( I then rode 
 on to Guadalupe, three miles ahead, for the purpose of 
 procuring sheep, as well as to notify the Mexican escort, 
 who were to join us here, of the approach of the train. 
 
 Colonel Langberg had promised me ten men, if I 
 could wait a few days for their return from Chihuahua ; 
 but this I could not do, and was therefore obliged to take 
 up with five, as but few now remained in the garrison. 
 These men soon reported themselves. 
 
 After procuring the sheep, and while we were 
 quietly waiting for the train to come up, a messenger 
 arrived with the disagreeable news that the ambulance 
 which contained the personal baggage of Dr. Webb, 
 Mr. Jacobs, and myself, had been upset in crossing 
 the river, and that every thing had been immersed in 
 the water. I hastened back to the scene of the disaster, 
 and found things worse than I had expected. Besides 
 our baggage, a trunk filled with papers, maps, my 
 account books, and the official records of the Joint 
 Commission, had been wet. Some choice stationery 
 was utterly ruined. 
 
 We at once set to work, and spread every thing 
 out on the patches of grass that were near and on the 
 branches of trees ; but although the sun was hot, there 
 was not sufficient time to dry all before night. 
 
 October 11th. The forenoon was spent in drying 
 our effects and packing them away again. At noon the 
 
TO CHIHUAHUA. 405 
 
 animals were again hitched up, and we moved off 
 once more, passing through Guadalupe, and stopped at 
 a small lagoon, three miles beyond, where we encamped. 
 We could have travelled a couple of hours longer, but 
 were told there was no water within fifteen miles, which 
 we could not make before dark, as a portion of the 
 road was very sandy. 
 
 Guadalupe is a miserable looking village. It was 
 founded in the year 1850, as a military colony, at a 
 time when the Mexican government offered induce- 
 ments to settlers to take up lands. Its population con- 
 sists chiefly of persons from New Mexico, who preferred 
 Mexican to American rule. Its houses are all built of 
 upright sticks, the interstices filled with mud. There 
 was but one shop in the place, and no mechanic except 
 a blacksmith. There was nothing that indicated pros- 
 perity; and the contrast between this village and a 
 new American settlement, was most striking. We 
 looked about for vegetables in vain: a few water- 
 melons were all the place afforded. 
 
 October 12th. Last night was very cold, so much 
 so that three or four blankets were necessary. During 
 the day the heat is quite oppressive, so that the thinnest 
 clothing is required ; but no sooner does the sun sink 
 below the horizon, than the temperature falls to a 
 degree that compels one to change one's garments and 
 wrap up well in blankets. The mornings are equally 
 cold, until the sun has been up at least three hours. 
 By ten or eleven thick clothing is laid aside. 
 
 We left the valley of the Rio Grande to-day, and 
 ascended the table-land, which was thinly covered 
 with chapporal without grass. The road was sandy ; 
 
406 EL PASO 
 
 yet we made fifteen miles, and encamped at Cantarecio, 
 where there is a spring of good water. 
 
 October 13th. Our course was to-day south-west 
 towards the direct route from El Paso to Chihuahua ; 
 and with the exception of a few places, the road was 
 good. Mezquit grass occurred at intervals sufficient 
 for grazing. No trees were seen, and scarcely any 
 shrubbery ; so that our cooks with difficulty procured 
 enough to prepare our food. We made twenty -five 
 miles (at least so it was called by the Mexicans), and 
 encamped at Cliarco de Grado. The Mexican mode of 
 measurement is very uncertain, unless practised by 
 engineers. The water here is found in small pools, 
 supplied by springs ; but so meagre is the supply, that 
 I doubt whether it can be depended upon in the dry 
 season. 
 
 October 14Ali. Our course continued the same as 
 yesterday, over a broad plain, unlimited by mountains, 
 which showed themselves only at intervals of from ten 
 to twenty miles in short ridges, their summits present- 
 ing a jagged and fantastic appearance. Turrets and 
 cupolas, huge towers and castles, alternately were seen. 
 These mountains appeared to be destitute of vegetation, 
 except the grama grass, which grows on the debris 
 from the base to the point where the bare rocks arise. 
 
 Fifteen miles brought us to the Ojo de Lucero 
 (Venus's Spring), which furnishes but a small supply of 
 water. We did not stop here, but pushed on to the 
 Laguna de los Patos (Duck Lake), six miles further, 
 and encamped near a spot where a stream of clear 
 and delicious water crosses the road. This rivulet 
 comes from a spring near by, and empties into a small 
 
TO CHIHUAHUA. 407 
 
 pond containing a couple of acres, in which many ducks 
 were seen. 
 
 Two miles before encamping, we entered the direct 
 road from El Paso to Chihuahua. This road crosses 
 the Medanos or Sand-hills, which we passed on our 
 road from Correlitos to El Paso; and such were the 
 difficulties then presented, that I determined not to 
 attempt it again with wagons. Our route by Gua- 
 dalupe required two days longer than if we had 
 crossed the Sand-hills; but it was better to lose two 
 days than to disable or break down our animals at the 
 outset of a long journey. 
 
 The Laguna de los Patos is the outlet of the river 
 Carmen ; and is four or five miles across, varying in 
 extent according to the rainy season. The body of 
 water on our right was doubtless the effect of the late 
 heavy rains ; while that on the left, which is properly 
 the laguna, is permanent. 
 
 A mile before reaching the lake is a small hill some 
 twenty feet high, on the top of which is a warm spring. 
 In the plain on our right, which was more or less 
 covered with water, at a distance of eight or ten miles, 
 I had noticed during the day what I supposed to be 
 clouds of dust or whirlwinds ; but I afterwards learned 
 from our Mexicans that it was steam from hot springs. 
 The steam sometimes issued forth in jets, rising from 
 fifty to one hundred feet high, and seemed to extend 
 along the plain for a mile or more. I was desirous to 
 examine these springs ; but the intervening space was so 
 much overflowed, that it was not considered safe to do so. 
 I could obtain from the arrieros no information about 
 them. A number of ducks were shot near our camp. 
 
408 EL PASO 
 
 October 15th. On leaving this morning, we struck 
 at once into the plain, which, as far as the eye could 
 reach, was covered with water, appearing like a vast 
 lake. We could trace the road by the tall grass and 
 bushes, on which the water was from fifteen to eight- 
 een inches deep. The ground being soft, our wagons 
 sank deeply into it ; and it was with the greatest 
 difficulty that our animals could drag them through. 
 A space of a few hundred yards would have been bad 
 enough through such a depth of mire and water ; but 
 a steady tug of three or four miles was a very serious 
 matter. Now and then the wagons would plunge into 
 a deep hole, from which it was difficult to extricate 
 them. In one of these the Doctor's carretella sank so 
 suddenly, and to such a depth, that the king-bolt 
 broke, and the fore wheels separated from it. For- 
 tunately a small portion remained, which was kept in 
 its place by straps. This was almost as bad as the 
 deep sand, and we were obliged to make frequent 
 stops to let the animals rest. 
 
 We at length reached dry ground, and the wagons 
 succeeded in getting out, except one, the heavy " ark," 
 which mired so deeply that the six mules could not 
 extricate it. We doubled the team ; but the mules 
 being unmanageable in the mire and water, the tongue 
 was snapped off. An hour or more was spent in splicing 
 the tongue, when the twelve mules were again hitched 
 on. When all was in readiness for another effort, men 
 were placed with whips at each span of mules : at a 
 given signal, the whips were simultaneously laid on ; 
 whoops and yells, mingled with a shower of oaths, 
 followed, and the frightened animals made a united 
 
TO CHIHUAHUA. 409 
 
 spring. The animals cleared themselves, breaking 
 every chain, and leaving the ark where it was. Find- 
 ing it impossible to extricate it with its contents, it 
 was unloaded, and the twelve mules again attached, 
 when another and united effort brought it to dry land. 
 This was not effected until the men had been knee- 
 deep in mud and water for four hours. 
 
 While this was going on we amused ourselves with 
 collecting insects, reptiles, and other objects in natural 
 history, of which quite a number were obtained. At 
 one o'clock we again moved off, over a superb road, 
 and in twelve miles reached Carrizal (country of reed 
 grass), and encamped near an old acequia half a mile 
 from the town, the water in which was scarcely fit for 
 the mules to drink. I did not wish to go to the town, 
 as experience had taught me that it was best to avoid 
 the Mexican settlements. We had not been in one 
 where the arrieros or teamsters did not get into a row, 
 or return to camp in a state of drunkenness. Mr. 
 Thurber rode to the town, and purchased a supply of 
 corn sufficient to take us to Chihuahua, together with 
 some goats, as sheep were not to be had. 
 
 Carrizal is an old dilapidated presidio, and now 
 nearly depopulated ; more than half the houses being 
 tenantless. The lands about it are rendered fertile by 
 irrigation, and in former years were cultivated. It 
 derived some advantage too from passing travellers 
 and caravans, as it is the only town between El Paso 
 and Chihuahua. The inhabitants being completely at 
 the mercy of the Apaches, they barely gain an exist- 
 ence ; for these inveterate robbers boldly enter the 
 place by day and help themselves to what they want ; 
 
410 EL PASO 
 
 whether it be corn, a fat mule, or an ox. The people 
 are too few to make any defence, and quietly submit 
 to be plundered. At the last visit of the marauders, 
 they entered every house, and each provided himself 
 with a blanket, from the shoulders or beds of the 
 inmates. 
 
 October 16th. Our route continued over the same 
 broad and boundless plain we had been traversing 
 since we first ascended the plateau from the Rio 
 Grande. Mountains were seen only at a great dis- 
 tance, while nearer at hand a few low hills rose up 
 here and there. Twelve miles brought us to Ojo Caliente 
 (Warm Spring). Although we had made but a short 
 day's march, it was thought best to stop here ; as there 
 lay before us a Jornada of fifty miles without water, 
 which it would require two full days to accomplish. 
 
 Ojo Caliente is a spring which rises from the plain 
 about one hundred and fifty yards from the base of a 
 rocky hill. Its temperature is nearly the same as that 
 of the atmosphere. A small pool about one hundred 
 and twenty feet in circuit, and from three to four deep, 
 is here formed, with a sandy bottom, from which warm 
 water bubbles up in many places ; this water has an 
 outlet through a small creek into the river Carmen, 
 in which creek some fish were taken and preserved for 
 specimens. This basin afforded an excellent opportunity 
 for a bath, and the whole party took advantage of it. 
 A well built stone wall, about a yard in thickness, and 
 laid in cement, is built across the basin, apparently 
 for the purpose of raising the water. A portion of this 
 wall is now broken away. I imagine it to be the work 
 of the Spaniards, who, at some former period, have 
 
TO CHIHUAHUA. 411 
 
 resorted hither for the benefit of the water. No traces 
 of buildings could be found near the pool; yet there 
 may be in the plain near. It is now, and doubtless has 
 long been the resort of Indians, as there are many mor- 
 tars in the adjacent rocks. Along one side of the hill 
 there appeared to be a rude wall ; and on the summit 
 were circles and heaps of stones, which bore the traces 
 of fire. From here a most extensive view was pre- 
 sented, on three sides unobstructed by mountains. 
 
 October Vltli. By seven o'clock, a. m., we had 
 resumed our .journey over an excellent natural road, 
 equal to the best turnpike. About a mile from camp 
 we crossed the Rio Carmen, a considerable stream, 
 although dry during the summer, when the water is 
 most wanted. Our course was due south ; and during 
 the thirty-five miles made to-day, not a hill, gully, or 
 ravine, was passed. There was a gradual ascent for 
 at least twenty miles, with no mountains in sight. A 
 few rounded hills were seen at long intervals ; and 
 through the openings in these, the plain seemed to 
 extend for sixty or eighty miles. It was covered with 
 a luxuriant growth of grass, with scarcely a bush as 
 large as one's finger. In order to advance as far as 
 possible, we kept on till dark, and encamped without 
 water. A few little twigs gathered as we came along, 
 was all the fuel we could procure. 
 
 October 18th. Moved from camp a little after seven 
 o'clock. The plain was open, except on our right, 
 where, at a distance of a mile, ran a high range of 
 hills. On starting, I rode on my mule a short distance 
 ahead, accompanied by Messrs. Radziminski, Pratt, 
 Seaton, Force, and Dr. Webb. Soon after we saw the 
 
412 EL PASO 
 
 train start ; whereupon we held in our animals, that it 
 might the sooner overtake us. About a mile from 
 camp we passed a small arroyo, or ravine, pretty well 
 filled with bushes. This arroyo was no sooner passed 
 by the foremost wagon in the train, than we were 
 startled by the most terrific yells and shouting ; and on 
 turning our heads, to our horror we saw a band of 
 Indians issuing from the arroyo we had passed, and 
 charging upon the train. We immediately turned 
 about, put spurs to our animals, and rode back with all 
 speed towards the train. The savages, who numbered 
 between thirty and forty (as stated to me by those in 
 the rear), were rushing at full speed with their lances 
 poised, screaming and yelling,, endeavoring to break 
 the line and stampede the mules, as they crossed from 
 one side to the other. Others followed, discharging 
 their arrows at the teamsters as they passed ; but the 
 teamsters remained each by his team, keeping the mules 
 in their places, and closing up the line. At the same 
 time they kept the enemy at bay by levelling their 
 pistols at them. These men had the presence of mind 
 to keep their seats in the saddle and to hold their fire, 
 which the savages wanted to draw. Had they fired 
 and missed their mark (and the chances were ten to 
 one against their hitting), they would have been 
 pierced by a lance or an arrow the next moment. 
 
 The men who were riding by the side of the 
 wagons sprang to the aid of the teamsters, and held 
 the leading mules, which kept them in their places. 
 
 Failing in their attempt to frighten the mules and 
 throw the train into disorder, the Indians dashed on 
 towards the rear, and made a furious charge on the 
 
TO CHIHUAHUA. • 413 
 
 party there wlio were driving the spare mules and 
 horses. Two Mexicans, herdsmen, were unhorsed by 
 the charge ; and a third, being wounded, fell from 
 his animal. He, however, held on to his bridle, when 
 an Indian rushed at him and pierced him to the heart 
 with his lance. The momentary pause of this man 
 made him a good mark for the rifle, and sealed his fate. 
 Several were discharged at once, which brought the 
 fellow to the ground. His companions seeing him fall, 
 ran to his rescue, raised him up, and threw his bleed- 
 ing body across a mule ridden by another Indian, when 
 they rode off at full speed. 
 
 The firing now became general ; but the constant 
 motion of the enemy, enabled them to escape. The 
 five Mexican soldiers, who were on foot, stood up to 
 the fight manfully, and were in the thickest of it. They 
 did much, too, towards saving the last wagon, which 
 had got separated, and was one hundred and fifty 
 yards in the rear. The driver of this team, when he 
 saw the Indians between him and the rest of the train, 
 jumped from his mule, and, bringing the leaders 
 around, fastened their heads to the wagon. He then 
 took out his rifle and stood on the defensive, levelling 
 it at each Indian as he approached, and thus keeping 
 them at bay. 
 
 The Indians next made for Mr. Thurber, who was 
 still further in the rear, and at the moment engaged in 
 putting some plants into his portfolio. They dashed 
 at him with their lances, and he had barely time to 
 seize his revolver, with which he kept them off. Our 
 men were now close at the enemies' heels ; so that, find- 
 ing themselves in rather a tight place, they made for the 
 
414 EL PASO 
 
 adjoining hills, pursued by six or eight of our party. 
 The fleetness of their horses and their knowledge of the 
 ground, gave them the advantage ; so that after a pur- 
 suit of a mile or two, we gave up the chase, fearing 
 the train might encounter a larger body of Indians in 
 ambush, for they scattered in all directions, and con- 
 cealed themselves among the rocks or ravines of the 
 hills. 
 
 The spare animals were all stampeded and lost. They 
 became frightened at the first charge, and, not being 
 fastened, were rushing at the top of their speed over 
 the plain, driven by a portion of the enemy, before we 
 who were in advance could reach them. We lost ten 
 mules and a valuable horse — and secured the horse, 
 saddle, and arms of the Indian that was shot. Two of 
 the wagons were pierced with bullets, and several 
 arrows were found sticking in the wagons near the 
 teamsters. 
 
 We dug a grave by the side of the road, and de- 
 posited in it the body of the unfortunate Mexican 
 who was killed. This being done, we hastened away 
 from the sad scene, the first and only occurrence of 
 the kind that had befallen the Commission since it 
 entered the field, now more than two years. 
 
 We had proceeded but a few hundred yards when 
 we noticed several heaps of stones, some of them sur- 
 mounted by small crosses, to mark the spots where 
 murders had been committed but a short time before, 
 as appeared by their freshness. Fragments of clothing 
 also lay around, showing that a severe contest had 
 taken place. Fearing that the Indians might rally in 
 larger numbers and renew the attack, two soldiers 
 
TO CHIHUAHUA. 415 
 
 were sent ahead, while the others kept at a distance on 
 the right and left, to give us early notice of the ap- 
 proach of danger. 
 
 Eight or ten miles brought us to a point opposite 
 the Ojo de Callego (Spring of the Mountain Pass), a 
 ravine in the mountain on our left, where there was a 
 fine spring in a thick grove of cotton-woods. It seemed 
 a likely place for Indians to conceal themselves in, 
 and, with an enemy at our heels, we had no desire to 
 stop there. We therefore filled our water kegs from 
 a pool near at hand, without entering the ravine. A 
 couple of miles further on, we passed the Ojo de Calle- 
 ctto : marked by a few cotton-woods on the mountain 
 side. Soon after this, we met a body of about twenty 
 Mexican soldiers in charge of a lieutenant from Chihua- 
 hua, bound for El Paso. They were the men who had 
 escorted the merchant train from El Paso, to which I 
 have before alluded. From them we learned that Ar- 
 mijo's train of empty wagons, which left that place the 
 day before us by way of the Sand-hills, had been 
 attacked by the Apaches near the place of our encoun- 
 ter with them, and had lost six men and thirty 
 mules. 
 
 Continuing our march until dark, in order to get as 
 far as possible from the scene of the morning, we 
 encamped on the open plain, making a corral of the 
 wagons and tents, and bringing all into as compact a 
 space as possible. The animals were either tied up 
 close to the wagons or staked within the inclosure, 
 and the guard doubled for the night. 
 
 During the day's journey, which did not exceed 
 eighteen miles, mountains were near us on the left. 
 
416 EL PASO 
 
 The grassy plain continued without bushes; so that 
 we were obliged to gather up dried dung for fuel. 
 
 October 19th. Before daylight the camp was called, 
 and every man was perambulating the corral and the 
 vicinity with his arms in hand ; for it is well known 
 that these savages generally take the dawn of day to 
 surprise unconscious travellers. Sentinels were sent 
 out to reconnoitre, and eight men to guard the mules 
 while grazing. 
 
 At six o'clock, we moved again over an excellent 
 road as before, the grass luxuriant as far as the eye 
 could reach. Antelopes and deer were seen in herds 
 bounding over the plain, sometimes coming within 
 gun-shot of us. A few shots were fired without suc- 
 cess, the open plain preventing our hunters from get- 
 ting as near as they wished. Fifteen miles brought 
 us to the Laguna de Encinillas (Lake of Evergreen 
 Oaks), which lay on our right, stretching far off into 
 the plain in a southerly direction. It is said to be 
 about fifteen miles long and three wide, varying ac- 
 cording to the season and the rains. This lake, like 
 all others on the high table, while it receives much 
 water, has no outlet. Forming the basin of a vast 
 plain, its waters rise with the rains, and in the dry 
 season are much lessened, and sometimes nearly dry. 
 It is only remarkable, considering the porosity of the 
 soil, and the rapid evaporation from the dryness of the 
 atmosphere, that the whole does not disappear before 
 the return of the periodical rains. As the water was 
 said by our Mexicans to be brackish, we supplied our- 
 selves from a spring about a hundred yards from its 
 shore. After the camp was arranged, I took my gun 
 
TO CHIHUAHUA. 417 
 
 and went to the lake. On tasting the water, to my 
 surprise I found it perfectly sweet, in fact better than 
 that in the spring. It is therefore probable that after 
 the rainy season the lake so fills up that its brackish- 
 ness is overcome. Its shores, as well as the adjoining 
 plain, are covered with what the Mexicans call teques- 
 quite, or alkaline salt in a state of efflorescence. Brant, 
 ducks, and plover abound in its waters, some few of 
 which we shot. 
 
 Soon after we encamped, a stray ox was discov- 
 ered among the mezquit bushes which skirted the 
 base of the hills. We did not hesitate to drive him to 
 camp for the benefit of the party ; for we had been 
 living on very poor goat's meat since leaving Guada- 
 lupe. This fine beef proved a valuable accession to 
 our stock of provisions; as many could not stomach 
 the meat of a poor goat, after he had been driven 
 twenty or thirty miles. 
 
 October 20th. We continued along the shores of 
 the lake for fourteen or fifteen miles, through a plain 
 covered with grass. This plain was ten or twelve 
 miles wide, bounded on the east by a range of hills, 
 and on the west by rugged mountains. On the op- 
 posite side of the lake appeared a hacienda amid a 
 grove of cotton-woods — a beautiful spot, which might 
 compare with the highly cultivated grounds of a Euro- 
 pean nobleman ; but the mark of ruin was upon it — the 
 Apaches had driven away its occupants, and it was 
 fast crumbling to decay. 
 
 Twenty miles brought us to El Pefiol, a large haci- 
 enda, near which a herd of cattle was grazing. There 
 did not appear to be any land under cultivation here : 
 vol. ii. — 27 
 
418 EL PASO 
 
 the raising of stock, for which the broad grassy plains 
 are so admirably adapted, seemed to be the sole 
 purpose of the establishment. Near by is a small 
 stream of clear water, bearing the same name as the 
 hacienda, which discharges itself into the lake. On 
 the opposite side of the valley, to the west, and near 
 the termination of the lake, is the village of Encinillas, 
 consisting of a church and a cluster of adobe houses. 
 This village, as well as El Penol and the vast grounds 
 adjacent, are the property of General Trias, formerly 
 governor of Chihuahua.* His estates at the time of the 
 invasion of the Americans contained many thousand 
 head of cattle, which he gave to his government for 
 the support of the army, and for which, I was told, he 
 has never made a claim. 
 
 We passed to-day a train of mule wagons and a 
 carretella on its way to El Paso. There were but few 
 persons in it, except the teamsters ; among them, how- 
 ever, I noticed several women and children. We told 
 them of the attack made on us by the Apaches two 
 days before, and advised them to be on their guard. 
 Three Americans and a Mexican, who were with the 
 train, became so alarmed that they left it, and joined 
 iUS, to return to Chihuahua. 
 
 October list. Continued our journey through the 
 same valley, the mountains now converging to a point 
 some miles in advance. In crossing Penol Creek we 
 found innumerable quantities of wild ducks. The sur- 
 face of the water was literally darkened with them ; 
 
 * Don Angel Trias was again chosen Governor of the State in the 
 year 1853. 
 
TO CHIHUAHUA. 419 
 
 and when at our approach they rose, the noise seemed 
 like distant thunder. I shot twelve, and others of the 
 party brought in numbers. They were all teal. 
 
 A few miles brought us to the hacienda of El Sauz 
 (The Willow) — a building inclosed by a wall full 
 twenty feet high. This estate also belonged to Gene- 
 ral Trias. We stopped a few minutes at the gate, and 
 the occupants came out to meet us. We endeavored 
 to buy eggs, poultry, or some other kind of fresh pro- 
 visions, but found they had " nada" nothing, for sale. 
 This establishment had likewise suffered from the 
 Indians, notwithstanding its high wall, which would 
 inclose many hundred cattle. On one occasion the 
 savages for mere sport lamed a large number of these 
 cattle, and filled up a well near by with their carcasses. 
 On the opposite side of the valley is a village called 
 El Sauzillos, or Little Willows. 
 
 After a march of twenty-four miles from El Penol, 
 we reached the Sacramento River, and encamped near 
 the famous battle-field where Colonel Doniphan and his 
 brave Missourians gained the decisive victory which 
 resulted in the surrender of the city of Chihuahua. 
 
 The Mexicans did not show much judgment in the 
 selection of this spot to resist the approach of the 
 invading force. It is on the level summit of a plateau 
 some sixty feet above the valley, and about half a 
 mile in width. The plateau juts directly across the 
 valley we had been travelling, and leaves but a narrow 
 passage to the east. If the Americans had been obliged 
 to march through this valley, the position of the Mexi- 
 cans would have been a good one. But it was unne- 
 cessary for Colonel Doniphan to force a pass, and thus 
 
420 EL PASO 
 
 give the Mexican batteries full scope to play upon 
 him, when, by diverging half a mile or less to the 
 right, he could avoid them entirely. This he did with- 
 out delay, unattended with loss ; and on reaching the 
 plateau, he advanced at once to the attack with an 
 open field before him. By this course he exposed 
 himself only to the right or western battery, on 
 which he immediately opened his fire, striking terror 
 into the ranks of the enemy, which retreated to the 
 adjoining batteries and entrenchments. These also 
 fell, the Mexicans retreating to a hill on the opposite 
 side of the valley of the Sacramento, where the final 
 conflict took place. This valley is less than half a 
 mile wide, and is intersected by the river of the same 
 name, a stream ten or fifteen yards wide, and about a 
 foot deep.* 
 
 * I annex the most brief account of this battle, which is contained 
 in the official report of Lieutenant Colonel Mitchell, one of the field- 
 officers : 
 
 " Immediately after gaining the table-land on the enemy's left, I 
 took command of the right wing of the army, in obedience to your or- 
 ders, and at the same time gave the necessary instructions to the traders 
 and teamsters in our rear, so as to form a field-work with the wagons 
 to fall back upon in the event of our being too hardly pressed by over- 
 whelming numbers. After the artillery firing (on both sides) ceased for 
 a few moments, I ordered the right wing, consisting of about four hun- 
 dred and fifty mounted riflemen, to advance in a gallop towards the 
 enemy's entrenchments on their left. 
 
 " During this movement, a battery of five pieces of artillery on the 
 point of a hill, six hundred yards to our right, opened an enfilade fire 
 on the left of our column, which did no execution. 
 
 " By a rapid advance, we reached a deep ravine about one hundred 
 and fifty paces in front of the enemy's field-works ; here I ordered the 
 troops to dismount and charge as skirmishers. The Mexican troops 
 
TO CHIHUAHUA. 421 
 
 There is a hacienda with other buildings here. A 
 portion of the valley might be cultivated by irrigation ; 
 but it is for the advantages it offers for grazing, that 
 the land is valuable. 
 
 October 22d Chihuahua is called twenty miles 
 from Sacramento, which is a large estimate. Resum- 
 ing our journey this morning, we came in sight of the 
 city on reaching the crest of an elevated plain ten 
 miles distant, from which there is a gradual descent to 
 the city. This plain is of a desert-like character, with- 
 out grass, and covered with small mezquit bushes. As 
 we approached, and when within four or five miles of 
 the city, it presented a beautiful appearance, surrounded 
 on three sides by picturesque mountains with bold 
 rocky sides quite detached from each other. Chihua- 
 hua lies in a basin formed by these mountains, and is 
 encompassed with fine large cotton-woods, from which 
 
 maintained their positions with much gallantry until we advanced with- 
 in twenty or thirty paces of their entrenchments ; at this distance the 
 fire of our men was unerring, and any Mexican who raised his head 
 above the breastworks fell. They soon broke and fled in the utmost 
 confusion, and in every direction, towards the surrounding mountains. 
 I immediately ordered the men to remount and charge the battery on 
 our right, which was done in gallant style. When we reached the top 
 of the hill we found that the Mexicans had fled, leaving the whole of 
 their cannon, ammunition, wagons, etc. I saw them retreating in every 
 direction on foot. As cavalry we could have followed and cut off great 
 numbers ; but the victory was complete, and I wished to spare the use- 
 less effusion of blood. 
 
 " The morning after the battle, T entered the city of Chihuahua at 
 the head of two companies of mounted men and two field or mountain 
 howitzers from Major Clarke's battalion." — Report of Lieut. Colonel 
 Mitchell to Colonel Doniphan. Executive Document No. 1, 30th Con- 
 gress, 1st Session. 
 
422 
 
 EL PASO 
 
 the towers and dome of its cathedral, and the spires of 
 its lesser churches stand out in bold relief against the 
 adjacent hills. To the right and left along the stream 
 which waters it lie many large haciendas deeply 
 buried in groves of luxuriant trees, presenting alto- 
 gether the most charming landscape we had yet seen 
 in Mexico. On the road we passed many men gather- 
 ing fuel for the city market. This consisted of dried 
 bushes and brushwood ; which, when collected, they 
 tied up in huge bundles, and carried in on their backs. 
 
 Carrying wood to Chihuahua. 
 
 Both men and boys were engaged in this business ; 
 some of whom we passed full six miles from the city, 
 
TO CHIHUAHUA. 423 
 
 barefoot and almost naked, sweating under their heavy 
 burdens. Donkeys in trains carrying wood, or com- 
 pletely enveloped in loads of dry corn-stalks, were 
 also wending their way to market. These patient 
 animals are much used by the poorer classes to carry 
 their burdens. 
 
 I sent Messrs. Thurber and Jacobs in advance, in the 
 morning, with my letters of introduction for Governor 
 Cordero and General Trias, as well as to select a suita- 
 ble place for an encampment. This they accomplished, 
 and met us as we entered the city. We drove at once 
 through the town amid a tremendous cracking of whips, 
 which teamsters take particular delight in on such 
 occasions, to the " Buen Viage" a large inclosure 
 with a high wall. Within this all the wagons were 
 driven, and on one side the tents were pitched. This 
 was a great convenience to us, as we were free from 
 the annoyance of the lazy, pilfering class which hover 
 about a town, and by whom a train and party like ours 
 would be considered fair game. 
 
424 CHIHUAHUA 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIX. 
 
 CHIHUAHUA AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 Repairs on wagons — Mr. Flotte and his persecutions — The road infested by 
 Comanche Indians — Guard hired — General Trias — Governor Cordero 
 — A dinner and hall — Ladies of Chihuahua — Dinner to General Trias 
 —Obtain important documents relating to the Boundary — Description 
 of Chihuahua — Causes of its decline — Its mines — The expulsion of the 
 Spaniards — Labors of the Jesuits — Aqueduct — The Cathedral — Mine of 
 Santa Eulalia — Casa de Moneda — Commerce, how carried on — Agri- 
 cultural products— Alfalfa and its value — Heaps of scoria — Grazing 
 lands — The plateau — Immense herds of cattle — Height of the table- 
 land — Climate — Diminutive dogs. 
 
 Our journey of two hundred and seventy miles from 
 El Paso had disabled several wagons, which had now 
 to be repaired. It was also necessary to replace the 
 eleven mules we had lost. I determined to engage 
 here a few additional men as a guard ; as we yet had 
 a journey of eight or nine hundred miles before us 
 before we should strike the Rio Grande, the greater 
 portion of which distance, I now learned, was infested 
 with the Comanche Indians. This tribe is ten times 
 more numerous than the Apaches ; they are among the 
 finest horsemen in the world, possess many fire-arms, 
 which they know how to use, and go in large bands. 
 They are, therefore, far more to be dreaded than the 
 Apaches, whose range we had now passed. 
 
AND ITS VICINITY. 425 
 
 We had no sooner arrived, than the character of our 
 party was known throughout the city ; and many appli- 
 cants appeared in quest of employment, most of them 
 persons who wanted to get to their homes. Among 
 these were several Americans from Texas, who had 
 come here with merchant trains, and been discharged 
 They earnestly begged for situations, or to be permit- 
 ted to accompany the train for the protection it would 
 afford them. I selected such men as I required, among 
 them an excellent blacksmith, whom 1 wanted exceed- 
 ingly, and could not procure at El Paso. 
 
 The American consul, Bennet Riddells, Esq., called 
 the morning after our arrival. This gentleman has 
 long resided in this city, and is married to a Mexican 
 lady. Having letters of introduction to a number of 
 the principal citizens of the place, Mr. Riddells accom- 
 panied me in delivering them. Among the gentlemen 
 on whom I called, were Senores Chaves, Zuloaga, and 
 Jaques, Captain Bustamente, and Dr. Dubois, the last 
 a French physician of high scientific attainments, and 
 long resident in Chihuahua. Several of the American 
 residents called on me during the day, among them 
 Mr. Lewis Flotte, of Barranca Colorada, the gentle- 
 man whose silver mine and smelting works I visited 
 on my way from Correlitos to El Paso. 
 
 I heard from Mr. Flotte, a reiteration of what I had 
 been told at Correlitos, and at the mine, of his perse- 
 cutions ; in consequence of which, he had been driven 
 to the extremity of selling his mine as well as his 
 estate at Barranca, at a great sacrifice. He had 
 endeavored in vain to obtain protection of the State 
 authorities. The statement of Mr. Flotte was corrobo- 
 
426 CHIHUAHUA 
 
 rated by the American Consul, who was familiar with 
 the facts ; and I learned from them that the matter 
 would be laid before tile United States government. 
 
 General Trias called, and very politely tendered 
 me a furnished house while I remained in Chihuahua; 
 which, however, I declined. Experience had shown 
 us that after once going into camp life, it is better to 
 remain there steadily. One soon becomes accustomed 
 to a tent; and even in cold weather, it is preferable to 
 quarters, unless one is to remain permanently in them. 
 The change from one to the other, invariably produces 
 •colds. 
 
 General Trias, who was for several years Governor 
 of the State of Chihuahua, is a gentleman of large 
 wealth and fine accomplishments. After receiving his 
 education he went to Europe, where he spent eight 
 years travelling in various parts, although he remained 
 most of the time in England and France. He is well 
 versed in several of the European languages, and speaks 
 English with great correctness. Of English literature 
 he told me he was very fond ; and he considered that 
 no native appreciated the beauties of Shakspeare and 
 Milton better than he. With Addison and the belles-let- 
 tres writers of England he was also familiar. With large 
 •estates, a cultivated mind, and elegant manners, Gene- 
 ral Trias cannot but exercise a great influence in the 
 State. I have before mentioned the sacrifices he made 
 when his country was invaded by the Americans, 
 which greatly impoverished him. There are not many 
 such patriots in Mexico ; if there were, she would not 
 be in the position she now is. There is no doubt that 
 'General Trias detests the Americans as a people ; yet 
 
AND ITS VICINITY. 427 
 
 American gentlemen and officers who stop at Chihua- 
 hua, are always treated by him with great politeness 
 and attention. He is ardently devoted to Santa Ana, 
 and is considered at the head of the war party in his 
 State. 
 
 Governor Cordero, who also honored me with a 
 call, is the entire reverse of General Trias. He is a 
 merchant and banker, the owner of a very large landed 
 property, and is considered the richest man in the State. 
 As a politician, he is at the head of the moderate party. 
 
 A few days after our arrival, I heard that the train 
 we passed on its way to El Paso was attacked by the 
 Apaches at the same place where we had the encoun- 
 ter with them, and that it lost twenty-eight mules. 
 Several men were killed, and three of the women made 
 captives. 
 
 On the 28th, I was invited, together with the offi- 
 cers of the Commission, to a dinner given by General 
 Trias. Besides the gentlemen who accompanied me, 
 there were about forty others present, embracing offi- 
 cers of the Mexican army and citizens of the place. 
 The entertainment was conducted in true Mexican 
 style, embracing a great variety of dishes served up in 
 as many courses. The waiters were all soldiers, and 
 performed their duty as well as the trained function- 
 aries at our large hotels. A band of music was in 
 attendance, and the affair was, on the whole, an ele- 
 gant one. Patriotic toasts were drunk, and among 
 those given by the Mexicans were Washington and 
 Franklin. In return we gave the heroes of the Mexican 
 revolution, Iturbide, Hidalgo, Allende, and Jimenez. 
 
 On leaving the table, we adjourned to the drawing 
 
428 CHIHUAHUA 
 
 room, where a large number of ladies soon after assem- 
 bled to a ball. This was an afterpiece as unexpected 
 to us as it was agreeable. The Mexican ladies, it is 
 well known, have a great passion for balls, and are 
 most graceful dancers. They kept it up incessantly, 
 alternating from quadrilles to waltzes and polkas, with- 
 out manifesting the slightest fatigue. The music was 
 very good, consisting of harps and violins. One would 
 hardly expect to find in a town situated as this is, on 
 the very confines of civilization, twelve hundred miles 
 from the capital, and six or eight hundred from either 
 ocean, so much elegance of manner and taste in dress; 
 for few of the ladies had ever been from home. Many 
 possessed as fair complexions as English or American 
 ladies, although the brunettes predominated. The 
 Mexican like the Spanish ladies have a natural grace- 
 fulness of manner, which has been observed by all 
 travellers, and has captivated most foreigners who 
 have taken up their residence in the country.* On 
 this occasion, one would imagine the most fashionable 
 dress-makers and hair-dressers had been employed, and 
 that Stewart had a branch of his great New York estab- 
 lishment here, from which the gorgeous silks and 
 satins and elegant muslins displayed in such profusion 
 had been procured. I noticed one custom, however, 
 which the Chihuahua ladies have not borrowed either 
 
 * It is a fact worthy of mention, that every married American or 
 European whom I met at San Diego, Guaymas, Mazatlan, Hermosillo, 
 Ures, El Paso, and Chihuahua, had, without a single exception, a Mexi- 
 can wife. Subsequently, in my visit to Parras, Saltillo, and Monterey, I 
 found it to be the same ; nowhere did I meet with an American or for- 
 eign lady. 
 
AND ITS VICINITY. 429 
 
 from New York or Paris. This was smoking cigarritos 
 between the dances. It is true these little cigars are 
 mild, and, being exhausted with a few puffs, are not 
 accompanied by the filthy practice of spitting. Gen- 
 tlemen use their cigars also in the ball-room ; so that 
 at times one has to confront quite a cloud of smoke. 
 
 A few days after this entertainment, I invited 
 General Trias, four of his officers, and the American 
 consul, Mr. Riddells, to a dinner in my tent, that num- 
 ber being as many as it would accommodate, with the 
 gentlemen of the Commission who were present. 
 
 I took advantage of my stay here to seek for infor- 
 mation relating to the northern boundary of the State, 
 and was so fortunate as to find in the Governor's office 
 a large manuscript map of the State -of Chihuahua made 
 by Don Pedro Garcia Conde, and Mr. Staples. It 
 appeared that in the year 1833, the Legislature of the 
 State ordered a geographical, topographical, and sta- 
 tistical survey to be made of the State. These gentle- 
 men were the engineers in charge of the work, and the 
 map alluded to was the result. 
 
 I also procured a copy of the Statistical Report or 
 Essay made by the same commission,* which report 
 was presented to the government in the year 1836 and 
 printed in 1842. In the map and Statistical Report the 
 northern boundary of the State is laid down and de- 
 fined in latitude 32° 57' 42". 
 
 Of the map a fac-simile was made by Mr. Raclzi- 
 minski, the principal assistant engineer of the Bounda- 
 
 * Ensayo Estadistico sobre el Estado de Chihuahua. Chihuahua, 
 Imprenta del Gobierno, a cargo de Cayetano Ramos. 1842. 
 
430 CHIHUAHUA 
 
 ry Commission, and a certificate appended to it by 
 Governor Cordero, stating that the original was made 
 by Messrs. Garcia Conde and Staples, in the year 1834. 
 This is now in my possession. 
 
 I also obtained a certified copy of the 2d Article 
 of the Constitution of the State, in which the bounda- 
 ries are denned, and which agrees both with the map 
 and the Statistical Report.* 
 
 * The following is a copy of the Governor's certificate : 
 
 " GoBIERNO DEL EsTADO DE CHIHUAHUA : 
 
 " El ciudadano Jose Cordero, Gobernador Constitucional del 
 Estado de Chihuahua, 
 
 " Certifico: que el articulo 2°. tit. 1°. de la Constitucion de este 
 Estado, promulgada en 7 Diciembre de 1825 y reformada en 7 de Di- 
 ciembre de 1847, se halla redactado en los siguientes terminos. 
 
 " Art. . 2°. El territorio de Chihuahua es el que ha poseido y se le 
 ha reconocido hasta ahora entre los 25° 53 / 36" y los 32° 57 ; 43" de 
 latitud Norte ; y entre los 1° 30' 16" ylos 7° 17' 52" de longitud 
 Occidental de Mexico, segun la carta geografica del mismo Estado, for- 
 mada por los Sefiores Staples y Garcia Conde en el ano de 1834.' 
 
 " Y a pedimento del Seiior Presidente de la Comision de Limites de 
 los Estados-Unidos del Norte D. John R. Bartlett, le doy esta en Chi- 
 huahua a veintisiete de Octubre de mil ochocientos cincuenta y dos. 
 (Signed) Jose Codero, 
 
 ( Signed ) Amado de la Vega. 
 
 On. 1°." 
 
 " CONSULATE OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, 
 
 Chihuahua, October 28th, 1852. 
 " I, Bennet Riddells, Consul of the United States of America, for 
 Chihuahua, Mexico, do hereby certify, that the above signatures of Jose 
 Cordero and Amado de la Vega are genuine, and that Jose Codero is 
 acting Governor of this State, and Amado de la Vega, first official. 
 " Given under my hand and seal of office, 
 
 " Bennet Riddells, 
 
 " U. S. Consul." 
 
AND ITS VICINITY. 431 
 
 Chihuahua is the capital of the State of the same 
 name, and was settled towards the close of the 17th 
 century by some adventurers, for the purpose of work- 
 ing the rich silver mines discovered about that time in 
 its vicinity. When these mines were in their most 
 prosperous state, the city contained more than seven- 
 teen thousand inhabitants. According to the census 
 of 1833, it contained ten thousand six hundred and 
 two ; and at the present time, its population does not 
 exceed twelve thousand. This diminution is owing 
 chiefly to the unsettled state of the country for the 
 last twenty-five years. With the general expulsion of. 
 the Spaniards which took place after the revolution, 
 this city, in common with every other in Mexico, lost 
 its most active, enterprising, and intelligent citizens. 
 Much of its wealth, too, was then carried away. After 
 this, the mines, which had yielded an amount of silver 
 almost unparalleled, and had enriched thousands, were 
 but imperfectly worked, and many were in course of 
 time abandoned. The rural population being thus 
 deprived of its chief dependence, the haciendas and 
 ranchos which dotted the beautiful and luxuriant val- 
 leys met the same fate. In this way Chihuahua has 
 greatly decreased in wealth, in commerce, and in 
 general prosperity. 
 
 There is still another cause for the decline of 
 Northern and Central Mexico which deserves to be 
 noticed. I allude to the expulsion of the Jesuits. 
 Whatever may have been the sins ascribed to this 
 religious order, it is an undeniable fact that during 
 their sway these States attained a higher degree of 
 prosperity than at any other period ; and with them 
 
432 CHIHUAHUA 
 
 this prosperity departed. This remark will also apply 
 to California while under the dominion of Mexico. No 
 one has ever kept the Indians under such subjection 
 as the Jesuits ; and when the latter were expelled, all 
 control over the former was lost. In every large town 
 are seen the fine edifices which were in the course of 
 erection by them. Chihuahua possesses one of these, 
 a large church and college, the walls of which were 
 nearly up. These buildings remain just as they were 
 left.* An apartment in the college was the place of 
 confinement of the patriot Hidalgo and his associates, 
 who were executed here in 1811. It is now a black- 
 smith's shop. 
 
 The city is regularly laid out, with broad and clean 
 streets, some of which are paved, and contain hand- 
 some and well-built houses, both of stone and adobe. 
 When of the latter material, they are plastered or stuc- 
 coed, and afterwards colored or whitewashed. Most 
 
 * Christian sects may cavil about their success among the Indian 
 tribes ; but it is an undeniable fact, that the Jesuits during their sway 
 accomplished more than all other religious denominations. They brought 
 the tribes of Mexico and California under the most complete subjection, 
 and kept them so until their order was suppressed. And how was this 
 done ? Not by the sword, nor by treaty, nor by presents, nor by In- 
 dian agents, who would sacrifice the poor creatures without scruple or 
 remorse for their own vile gains. The Indian was taught Christianity, 
 with many of the arts of civilized life, and how to sustain himself by 
 his labor. By this simple means the Society of Jesus accomplished 
 more towards ameliorating the condition of the Indians than the United 
 States have done since the settlement of the country. The Jesuits did all 
 this from a heartfelt desire to improve the moral and social as well as 
 the spiritual condition of this people, and at an expense infinitely less 
 than, we now pay to agents alone, setting aside the millions annually 
 appropriated for indemnities, presents, etc. 
 
AND ITS VICINITY. 433 
 
 of them have but one story ; yet they are large, and 
 built in squares, with courts in the centre. Having 
 thick walls and few windows, such dwellings are cooler 
 and better adapted to the climate than if built in our 
 northern mode. The rooms are always from fourteen 
 to eighteen feet high, with brick floors, which contri- 
 bute to their coolness. 
 
 An aqueduct supplies that greatest of luxuries, an 
 abundance of pure water. It is well constructed of 
 stone, and, with its long ranges of arches winding over 
 the rough ground and spanning the valleys on its way 
 to the city, presents a highly picturesque appearance. 
 It was built at the close of the last century, and has an 
 extent of about three miles and a half. In addition to 
 this, a small stream runs by the northern part of the 
 city ; so that in respect to water, no city is better sup- 
 plied. 
 
 The most important edifice in Chihuahua is its 
 cathedral, or, as it is here called, the parochial church. 
 This stands on one side of the plaza. It is built of cut 
 stone, of a very light color, and has two well-propor- 
 tioned towers and a dome. The people pride them- 
 selves much on this building, which is said to be only 
 second to the great cathedral of Mexico. If strict 
 adherence to the principles of a particular order of archi- 
 tecture constitutes beauty, this edifice will be found 
 wanting. It partakes of the Gothic and the Elizabeth- 
 an styles, with a profusion of ornament, similar to that 
 which was practised in Spain after the expulsion of 
 the Moors ; still its appearance is very imposing, and 
 is equalled by few churches in the United States. Its 
 interior is less chaste than its exterior. 
 
 vol. ii. — 28 
 
434 CHIHUAHUA 
 
 This church was erected from a fund raised by a 
 tax of one real (twelve and a half cents) on every 
 mark of silver (eight dollars) obtained from the 
 mines of Santa Eulalia, five leagues from the city. 
 The fund was collected during a period of seventy-two 
 years, commencing in the year 1717, and terminating 
 in 1789. From it was built the Cathedral of Chihua- 
 hua, at a cost of eight hundred thousand dollars, and a 
 church at Santa Eulalia at a cost of one hundred and 
 fifty thousand dollars, leaving a considerable sum unex- 
 pended. From this may be formed some idea of the 
 richness of the mines of this country. These sums, 
 raised by a tax at the rate mentioned, would require a 
 gross income on the part of the mine of fifty-one mil- 
 lion two hundred thousand dollars to erect the former, 
 and nine million six hundred thousand dollars for the 
 latter edifice, or, together, sixty million eight hundred 
 thousand dollars. Nearly a million of dollars a year, 
 for seventy-two years. 
 
 The square on which this church stands is occupied 
 with various public buildings ; among which, on the 
 east side, is the Governor's Palace, as it is called, but 
 which merely embraces his reception room and the 
 State offices. 
 
 There are several other churches in the city, which, 
 though small, are built with much taste. One of these, 
 Santa Rita, is shown in the sketch. 
 
 There is a Casa de Moneda, or Mint, here, which I 
 visited. In it silver and gold are coined, but chiefly 
 silver, and that by a most primitive process of manual 
 power. Each State in which there are many mines has 
 .a mint, which is let to an individual or firm, and is 
 
AND ITS VICINITY. 435 
 
 not under the direction of the State or general govern- 
 ment. For coining a mark of silver, without separa- 
 ting the gold, the charge is two reals (twenty-five 
 cents) ; for coining and separating the gold, five reals 
 (sixty-two and a half cents). This coin is said to yield 
 a profit of five per cent, upon its current value at the 
 United States Mint. It is put up in sacks of raw hide 
 containing one thousand and two thousand dollars 
 each. These shrink on drying, and press the coin so 
 closely as to prevent friction. All the silver in the 
 State contains gold, which is separated in large platina 
 kettles, with the aid of sulphuric acid. I saw two of 
 them, which had a capacity of about five gallons. 
 They looked little better than our iron camp kettles, 
 and cost five hundred dollars each. 
 
 Among other public places of note is an arena for 
 bull fights, a favorite amusement with the Mexicans. 
 An exhibition took place while we were here ; but 
 having once witnessed one of these cruel sights at El 
 Paso, I had no desire to be present at another. 
 
 In an open square in another part of the city is a 
 rude monument, of an obelisk form, to the memory of 
 the heroes of the revolution, Iturbide, Hidalgo, Allen- 
 de, and Jimenez, but without any inscription. On 
 one side of this square was pointed out to me the 
 place where the Emperor Iturbide was shot. 
 
 There is a large trade carried on here with the 
 United States, by means of caravans or trains from 
 Saint Louis, Missouri, and San Antonio, Texas. Until 
 very recently, the trade was carried on wholly by way 
 of Saint Louis, Santa Fe, and El Paso, a distance of 
 more than one thousand five hundred miles, and re- 
 
436 CHIHUAHUA 
 
 quiring months for the journey. Latterly, a much 
 shorter route has been opened by way of San An- 
 tonio and the Presidio del Norte, lessening the dis- 
 tance of land carriage more than one half. Formerly 
 traders left Missouri with large trains of merchandise, 
 and, on arriving here, opened their stores and sold 
 their goods themselves. This was a very irregular 
 business, leading sometimes to the accumulation of 
 large stocks, and proving ruinous to some of the par- 
 ties concerned. The trade is now more confined to 
 the resident merchants of the city. Governor Cordero 
 is one of the largest merchants ; and next to him are 
 several American houses of high respectability. There 
 are now some fine stores in the town, in which every 
 variety of merchandise can be procured.* 
 
 * If a merchant here desires to make his purchases himself in New 
 York or our other great markets, he must leave here in the fall, when it 
 will require from forty to fifty days to reach his destination, by way of 
 New Orleans. His goods must then be purchased and shipped either 
 to Indianola, on the Gulf of Mexico, to be sent by San Antonio, or to 
 St. Louis, Missouri, and thence by water to Independence. Now comes 
 the most difficult part of the transportation (say, for example, from the 
 latter place). Wagons, mules, harness, and the various trappings must 
 be purchased, and teamsters procured ; all of which requires much time 
 and a large outlay. The large Missouri wagons, which carry from five 
 thousand to five thousand five hundred pounds, cost about two hundred 
 dollars each ; the best Kentucky mules, ninety to one hundred dollars ; 
 harness, one hundred dollars ; water kegs, extra chains, ropes, etc., 
 twenty-five dollars for each wagon. These large wagons require ten 
 mules each ; so that a complete team ready for the plains would cost 
 from twelve hundred to thirteen hundred dollars ; and twenty of these, 
 which is not a large train, twenty-six thousand dollars. Then each team 
 must have its teamster at from twenty to twenty-five dollars a month ; 
 and a wagon-master or director of the train at from eighty to one hun- 
 
AND ITS VICINITY. 437 
 
 In the vicinity of the town are many fine gardens, 
 which are irrigated from the aqueduct or the natural 
 stream. We were not here in the season to see their 
 beauties, and I visited them but once. The fruits cul- 
 tivated are apples, pears, peaches, figs, melons, and 
 grapes. The variety of vegetables is not large ; not on 
 account of the incapacity of the soil or the climate to 
 produce them, but for want of attention. Those gene- 
 rally cultivated are beans, peas, maize, red pepper, 
 tomatoes, onions, lentils, beets, cabbages, etc. Wheat, 
 barley, and alfalfa (a species of lucerne), are cultivated 
 on the farms. 
 
 The alfalfa is extensively cultivated as far north as 
 El Paso, and is every where considered as one of the 
 most profitable of farm crops, yielding abundantly 
 without irrigation, and possessing the valuable property 
 when once established of flourishing in perennial vigor 
 for any length of time. In the vicinity of Chihuahua, 
 where the climate is mild, it is cut eight times a year, 
 and sold for green fodder at a real (twelve and a half 
 cents) per bunch of twenty-five pounds. Mr. Bid- 
 dells, our consul here, stated, that from a field of fif- 
 
 dred dollars a month. From fifteen to twenty extra mules would be 
 necessary for such a train ; as, on their long journeys, accidents cannot 
 be avoided. Men to herd and take care of the animals must also be 
 provided ; and, finally, provisions for the journey. This will give an 
 idea of the expense of fitting out a caravan or train ; and if the mer- 
 chant gets back with his goods in ten months from the time he left, 
 without encounters with hostile Indians, or the loss of any of his wag- 
 ons and their contents, in fording streams and otherwise, he may con- 
 sider himself fortunate. It cannot be expected that a merchant will be 
 satisfied with very small profits after such an expedition. 
 
438 CHIHUAHUA 
 
 teen acres he had realized in one year two thousand 
 one hundred and eighty dollars. This field when I 
 saw it, on the last day of October, was as green as our 
 meadows in June.* 
 
 I shall not enter into any particulars as to the 
 great number and variety of mines in the State of 
 Chihuahua, as the subject is too extensive to be treated 
 of in a work like the present. I have, however, col- 
 lected much information respecting it, which may^ 
 hereafter be given to the public. At present I will 
 merely say, that the mineral wealth of Chihuahua is 
 not surpassed, if equalled, in variety and extent by any 
 State in the world. Silver is the most abundant ; but 
 there is also gold, copper, lead, iron, and tin. Cinnabar 
 is also said to be found ; but I cannot speak of it with 
 certainty. Of bituminous coal I saw a fine specimen. 
 
 * A late San Francisco paper, in speaking of the introduction of 
 alfalfa into California, where it is known as " Chilian clover." says it is 
 greatly in use in the mining districts of Chili, where the lands are very 
 sterile, and rain is of seldom occurrence. " Natural grasses are, there- 
 fore, of scanty growth ; and the miners are compelled to rely for the 
 maintenance of their animals upon the alfalfa estates, which lie within the 
 narrow valleys of that mountainous region. The supply would, how- 
 ever, be wholly inadequate, were not the plant so remarkably prolific, 
 and possessed of such extraordinary nutritious properties. With the 
 addition of a little barley, it is found to keep mules in the best working 
 condition ; and consequently the owner of one of these alfalfa haciendas 
 is able to draw from his estates a much larger revenue than if culti- 
 vated in grain. In its green state, cattle feed upon it with the utmost 
 avidity, and acquire flesh so fast, that it is the practice in Chili to drive 
 herds from the grass pastures of the south, for hundreds of miles, in 
 order to obtain the benefit of its use. The land is prepared for the 
 seed of this plant in the same manner as for clover, it being, in truth, 
 of the same family as the latter." 
 
AND ITS VICINITY. 439 
 
 An idea may be formed of the extent to which 
 mining operations were formerly carried on here from 
 the immense heaps of scoria and dross which lie about 
 the city, and particularly near the bed of the creek, as 
 it is approached from the north. So imperfectly has 
 the silver been extracted from this ore, that a regular 
 business is now carried on in working the scoria over 
 again, which is said to pay. 
 
 The high table-land, which forms the larger portion 
 of the State, is not adapted to agriculture ; but for 
 grazing and the rearing of large herds of cattle, horses, 
 and sheep, it is unsurpassed. I have heard it stated, 
 that a man who settled near the Casas Grandes River 
 in 1785, took with him four cows and a bull, from 
 which, in the year 1829 he had become possessor of 
 a herd of forty thousand cattle. The vast plains filled 
 with such numbers of cattle resemble the prairies with 
 their herds of buffaloes. The proprietors of the great 
 haciendas used to pride themselves on preserving a 
 uniformity in the color of their cattle, much as some 
 of the nobility do in England at the present day, 
 though on a grander scale ; so that one possessed his 
 thousands of purely black cattle, another white, and a 
 third red. But this is now all done away with : the 
 great herds have disappeared, and there is no longer 
 any safety in rearing them, although the incentive to 
 do so is greater, owing to the demand for the Califor- 
 nia market. 
 
 The arable lands are in the valleys leading to the 
 great Sierra Madre, and along the water- courses. 
 They are extremely productive. 
 
 Among the peculiarities of this place it is proper 
 
440 CHIHUAHUA 
 
 to notice a singular breed of diminutive dogs which 
 are found only here, and are eagerly sought for by 
 strangers who visit the place. How these little creatures 
 originated I was not able to learn, although I made 
 many inquiries. These dogs have not the shape of 
 common lap-dogs, or of the stunted, dwarfish curs, 
 with large bodies and short legs, which are of com- 
 mon occurrence ; but they possess the elegant form of 
 a full-grown mastiff', with small heads, and slender 
 and delicate limbs and bodies. The hair is short and 
 fine on their backs, while on the lower part of their 
 bodies it is little more than down. The forehead is 
 remarkably prominent, and the eyes large and full. 
 They are also noted for their sagacity. These dogs are 
 highly prized throughout Mexico, and readily com- 
 mand fifty dollars at the capital. In Chihuahua they 
 bring from five dollars to a doubloon (sixteen dollars) 
 each, according to the purity of the breed. Several 
 were brought home by the gentlemen of the Commis- 
 sion. I have two, which weigh respectively three 
 pounds six ounces and four pounds.'" 
 
 Many persons mistake these Chihuahua dogs for 
 the misnamed prairie-dog, a little animal of the mar- 
 mot species, about which so much has been said by all 
 who traverse the prairies. Even intelligent travellers 
 who have not seen both have fallen into this error, f 
 
 * The bitch, has given birth to young twice since they have been 
 in the United States, which attained a size and weight about four 
 times that of the mother. The form was the same. This result has 
 been noticed by others, who have attempted to introduce the breed into 
 this country. 
 
 \ Lieut. Hardy says, " The surrounding country is filled with rat- 
 
AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 441 
 
 holes as well as excavations, made by a very small species of dog, not 
 much larger than a full-grown rat, who, as the traveller passes, comes 
 out to the mouth of the cave, and barks most angrily at the interrup- 
 tion. I endeavored to catch one ; but they are too wary, and instantly 
 enter their holes when pursued. They are known in Mexico by the 
 name of ' Chihuahua dogs.' " — Travels in Mexico, p. 446. Had the Lieu- 
 tenant taken the trouble to ask for the Chihuahua dogs when in the 
 city, he would have found them to be the the most gentle and affection- 
 ate little creatures, and that instead of living in "caves" or holes, they 
 spent their time chiefly on people's laps. Of the prairie-dog I shall 
 speak hereafter. 
 
 Aqueduct and Church of Santa lata, Chihuahua. 
 
442 CHIHUAHUA 
 
 CHAPTER XL. 
 
 CHIHUAHUA TO THE EIO FLORIDO. 
 
 Departure from Chihuahua — Additional escort — Mr.FJotte with his family 
 join us — Bachimba — Santa Cruz — Grist mill — Smelting works — Sau- 
 cillo — Attack of the Comanches — La Cruz — Las Garzas — Ford the 
 Conchas — Santa Rosalia — Its defences erected against the Americans 
 during the war — Ramada — Rio Florido — Guajuquilla — Fertile valley — 
 Monument to our Lady of Guadalupe — Search for meteorites — Hacien- 
 da Blanca — Wagon upset in an acequia — Hacienda de Concepcion — 
 Curious mass of meteoric iron — Account of meteorites in the vicinity 
 — Hacienda del Rio Florido. 
 
 November 1st. The wagons being repaired, and our 
 loss of animals made good by the purchase of addi- 
 tional ones, we were this day enabled to resume our 
 journey. We had added to our party six men, five as 
 an additional guard for our animals, and a blacksmith. 
 General Trias also furnished us with an escort of ten 
 dragoons. Our party was further increased by the 
 addition of Mr. Lewis Flotte (a gentleman to whom I 
 have repeatedly alluded), who, with his wife, a Mex- 
 ican lady, and eight children, were to accompany us as 
 far as the Rio Grande, or even to the Gulf of Mexico. 
 He had three carriages and four men, all well armed ; 
 and, as he had had considerable experience in Indian 
 
TO THE RIO FLORIDO. 443 
 
 warfare, we considered him an accession to our strength. 
 A large train of wagons was to leave in a couple of 
 days ; but as the number of men with it was small in 
 proportion, it would be of no advantage to us, while 
 it might cause delays. So I preferred starting by our- 
 selves. 
 
 All accounts received from the south brought the 
 unpleasant news, that for six hundred miles the road 
 was infested by the Comanches in large bodies, and 
 well armed, and that they had committed greater 
 depredations than ever, attacking not only travellers 
 but villages in open day. 
 
 We did not get off until one o'clock, so that our day's 
 journey was necessarily short. We made, however, 
 twelve miles over a good road. On leaving the city, 
 we passed the base of a mountain four miles distant, 
 when we again emerged into an open plain. It was 
 nearly dark when we reached a pond, about half a 
 mile from the road on our right, where we encamp- 
 ed. Around this pond the earth had been banked up 
 to the height of five or six feet, in order that a larger 
 quantity of water might be retained. The grass was 
 good. In a valley a mile distant on our right, was a 
 large hacienda. 
 
 November 2d. About six miles after leaving, we 
 entered a canon, through which we continued for four 
 or five miles ; the road quite stony and rough. In this 
 is the dry bed of a stream, which, during the rainy 
 season, is filled with water; and, judging from the 
 appearance of the bushes and drift wood, must quite 
 recently have been much swollen. East of this defile, the 
 mountains which here cross the valley rise abruptly, and 
 
444 CHIHUAHUA 
 
 present quite a picturesque appearance. Rocky strata 
 of various colors are seen, and the summits of the hills 
 are crowned with masses resembling works of art. 
 About half way through, on the right, is a fine spring, 
 and near by a deserted rancho, now in a state of ruin. 
 What object any one could have in occupying such a 
 spot, I cannot imagine ; for there seemed to be no land 
 fit for cultivation or for grazing. In this canon is a 
 conical hill, around which winds a spiral road, and on 
 whose summit is a stone parapet, the work of some 
 ancient people. 
 
 A little further on, we passed another rancho ; from 
 the top of the parapet peeped a few heads, and in 
 their midst a huge blunderbuss mounted on a swivel, 
 probably to overawe the Indians. On emerging from 
 the canon, we entered a broad plain, extending to the 
 south as far as the eye could reach. A few isolated 
 hills were alone seen in the far distance. The plain 
 here was about twenty-five miles wide. Five or six 
 miles further brought us to BacMmba, a cluster of 
 about a dozen houses, with a fine spring of water, 
 which is retained in a pond by a wall below it. From 
 this, the water is conducted to some gardens, in which 
 I noticed many fig-trees. This place is noted for its 
 fine apples ; but we were unable to procure any to 
 satisfy us of the truth of the report. Here we encamp- 
 ed, after a march of twenty miles. 
 
 November 3d. A train of wagons from Chihua- 
 hua, belonging to Senor Olivares, joined us last night, 
 and left again before daylight. We continued our 
 journey over the same plain as before, in a direction 
 about south south-east, the road being excellent. Grass 
 
TO THE RIO FLORIDO. 445 
 
 was scant, the plain being of a desert-like character, 
 covered with low mezquit bushes, various kinds of 
 cacti, yucca, and the fouquiera; forming as formidable 
 a collection of thorny plants as one need wish to 
 make his way through. No better indication of the 
 desert character of a country is required than the fou- 
 quiera, which thrives only in the most barren and arid 
 spots. 
 
 Ten miles from Bachimba the road divides, one 
 branch leading south-east to San Pablo, which is the 
 most direct, and the other to Santa Cruz, ten miles 
 distant. We took the latter, in order to obtain a sup- 
 ply of flour there for our journey. This town stands 
 near the San Pedro Creek, a tributary of the Conchos 
 River, and extends for nearly a mile along the valley. 
 Parts of it are compactly built ; yet I did not observe 
 a good-looking house in it Men, women, and chil- 
 dren crowded to the doors as we passed, attracted by 
 the cracking of the whips and yells of the teamsters, 
 and seemed to eye us with as much curiosity as though 
 they had never seen a train before. It is said to con- 
 tain four or five thousand inhabitants. We passed 
 directly through without stopping, and crossed the 
 creek, a fine stream of clear water, which rises in the 
 mountains about one hundred miles to the west, when 
 we were suddenly brought to a stand by a dilapidated 
 bridge, across an acequia. Such was the condition of 
 this bridge, that even the riding animals would not 
 cross it. We had, therefore, to cut branches from 
 the cotton-wood trees, lay them on the bridge, and 
 cover the whole with earth, before we could make it 
 passable. Such a bridge on the great highway from 
 
446 CHIHUAHUA 
 
 the capital to the larger towns at the south and to the 
 city of Mexico, is a disgrace to the State, and more so 
 to the town within half a mile of it. A few hours' labor 
 would render it safe and permanent ; yet no one will 
 do it. Each train managed to get over as we did, and 
 appearances indicated that it had long been in the 
 same plight. 
 
 Encamped at a village a mile from the stream, near 
 the grist-mill where we were to obtain our flour. I had 
 letters of introduction to the owner, but he was absent. 
 He is a gentleman of much enterprise, having at this 
 place, in addition to his flouring mill, a cotton gin and 
 smelting furnace. The ore is brought from a mine ten 
 miles distant. There is no wood near, and the fur- 
 naces have to be supplied with fuel by digging up the 
 roots of the mezquit chapporal. Heaps of this lay by 
 the road side, from which it is carried on the backs 
 of donkeys or men to the furnaces. I learned that the 
 mine was not profitable, but that another had been 
 discovered, which was to be worked by the same per- 
 son, who would bring the ore here to be reduced. 
 
 November Ath. Taking an easterly course, we struck 
 the main road from San Pablo in four or five miles after 
 setting out, when we again turned south-east. The 
 road was good, with the same barren plain as yester- 
 day. A tire here fell from one of the wagon wheels, 
 notwithstanding the thorough overhauling they had 
 received at Chihuahua ; but such is the dryness of the 
 climate, that these accidents will occur in spite of every 
 precaution. The result was a detention of two hours, 
 to wedge up the tire ; after which we pushed on more 
 rapidly, and reached Saucillo, said to be twenty-three 
 
TO THE RIO FLORIDO. 447 
 
 miles from Santa Cruz, where we encamped, about one 
 hundred and fifty yards from the river Conchos. 
 
 As we entered the village, which consists of a clus- 
 ter of mud houses, mostly in a decaying state, we 
 noticed the whole population running to and fro in a 
 great state of alarm, and at the same time a train of 
 wagons entering from the south. We soon learned the 
 cause of the excitement. The town had been entered 
 an hour before by a band of Comanche Indians ; who 
 attempted to drive off the cattle. They were pursued 
 by the men of the place, and in retreating, lanced an 
 unarmed man who was driving cattle. Each of these 
 fiends, out of mere sport, plunged his lance into the 
 poor creature, as they passed him lying on the ground. 
 The people were just bringing in his dead body. The 
 Indians had also attacked the train that was entering, 
 and succeeded in causing a stampede among the loose 
 animals, fifteen in number, which they drove off. To 
 save the rest, the party returned to Saucillo, which they 
 had just left. This was the train of Senor Olivares, 
 which had proposed joining us at Chihuahua. 
 
 In their attack to-day, the Indians killed eighteen 
 head of beef-cattle, which they could not drive off. The 
 bodies of eight of these were secured by the villagers ; 
 from which we obtained a supply of beef. Such is the 
 course pursued by the Indians. When they cannot 
 carry off cattle, they destroy them; and even when 
 they want food, they do not kill and preserve their 
 meat as the Mexicans do, but take merely what they 
 want for a meal, and leave the remainder. Hence, the 
 immense destruction of beef cattle and mules. A band 
 of one hundred Indians destroy cattle enough to sub- 
 
448 CHIHUAHUA 
 
 sist ten or twenty times that number ; and as they raise 
 none themselves, it may be conceived what inroads 
 they make upon the herds of the Mexicans, 
 
 While we were at Chihuahua, the Comanches made 
 a great haul near this place. A large train of wagons, 
 with one hundred and forty mules, on its way from the 
 capital to the fair of San Juan, had just encamped, 
 taken the mules from the wagons, and sent them with 
 four men to a pool of water a quarter of a mile 
 distant. While there a band of Comanches, who lay 
 concealed with their horses in a bush near by, sud- 
 denly rushed upon them, stampeded the whole caba- 
 llada, and succeeded in driving every animal off. The 
 herders and teamsters in charge could no nothing to 
 save them. The owner raised a large party a day or 
 two after, took the trail, and was in pursuit of the rob- 
 bers when we passed along. 
 
 A large portion of the population of Saucillo are 
 miners who work on their own account, called gambu- 
 cinos. These men perambulate the mining regions 
 much as our Californians do in " prospecting," when 
 they occasionally stumble on a vein which rewards 
 them for their labors. This, however, is but seldom ; 
 for, possessing no scientific and but little practical 
 knowledge, their discoveries are almost purely acci- 
 dental. Around the village are heaps of scorise, refuse 
 ore, and broken furnaces, the results of the labors of 
 these silver hunters. 
 
 November 6th. Before starting this morning, all the 
 fire-arms were inspected, and a further supply of am- 
 munition served out. I placed the party under the 
 orders of Mr. Radziminski, chief engineer, who had 
 
TO THE KIO FLORIDO. 449 
 
 had experience as a military officer. The villagers, 
 who knew the haunts of the Indians, said they were 
 then near our camp, and although we did not see them 
 they had their spies watching our movements. A man 
 was now placed by the leading mules of each team in 
 addition to the teamster, to keep them in place ; as 
 our safety depended on the preservation of our ani- 
 mals. Five of the soldiers were also placed with the 
 wagons, and five about fifty yards in advance of the 
 train. The remainder of the party were equally di- 
 vided between the front and rear. 
 
 Our course for the first four miles lay through a thick 
 chapporal, where an enemy might easily lie in ambush 
 and surprise a party. It was, therefore, with some 
 anxiety that we passed this place. On our left, for a 
 mile or more, were ruins of decayed buildings ; which 
 led me to believe that the town must have been much 
 larger in former times. Several large acequias, now 
 destitute of water, crossed our road, another evidence 
 that more of the valley had once been cultivated. 
 
 Passed some isolated mountains on our left", where 
 there are some silver mines, the ore from which is 
 taken to Saucillo to be smelted ; but, whether owing 
 to the poorness of the ore, or defective methods of 
 separating the metal from it, they barely pay the ex- 
 pense of working. There are other mines in the hills 
 to the right which yield more, and are considered pro- 
 fitable. These also belong to Saucillo, or rather to 
 the gambucinos of that place. 
 
 About fifteen miles from Saucillo we reached by a 
 gradual ascent the summit of a plateau, when a broad 
 expanse of plain again opened before us. From here 
 
 vol. ii. — 29 
 
450 CHIHUAHUA 
 
 we could trace the course of the Conchos by the wood 
 along its banks. This, next to the Rio Grande, is the 
 largest river in the State. It has its rise high up in 
 the Sierra Madre ;. it first flows in a southerly, next in 
 an easterly, then in a north-easterly, and finally in a 
 northerly course, when it discharges itself into the Rio 
 Grande near the Presidio del Norte. Its principal 
 tributaries are the Florido, De Buenavista, San Pedro, 
 Chihuahua, and Balleza. These, with their lesser 
 branches, water more than a third of the State. The 
 Conchos itself has a course of one hundred and forty 
 leagues, or about three hundred and seventy miles. 
 
 In eighteen miles we reached La Cruz, a small 
 village of three hundred inhabitants, and about five 
 miles further Las Gfarzas, both on the river Conchos. 
 The bottom lands are here broad, and seemed to be 
 highly cultivated. Large haciendas appeared from 
 among thick groves of cotton-woods, and exhibited 
 quite an agreeable spectacle, after several days' travel 
 over barren districts. After passing Las Garzas, we 
 forded the Conchos, here a fine clear and rapid stream 
 about two hundred yards across. After a day's jour- 
 ney of thirty miles, we reached Santa Rosalia, and 
 encamped on the banks of the Rio Florido, a small 
 stream which enters the Conchos at this place. 
 
 Santa Rosalia is the most considerable town we had 
 met with since leaving Chihuahua, having almost five 
 thousand inhabitants. It stands on a spur of the pla- 
 teau in the angle formed by the Conchos and Florido 
 Rivers, about sixty or eighty feet above the valley. 
 Like all Mexican towns we had thus far seen, it is on 
 the decline. There is rather a fine church here in the 
 
TO THE RIO FLORIDO. 451 
 
 course of erection, built of adobe, except the doorways 
 and windows, which are of the soft sand-stone of the 
 country. Some of the arches which are to support the 
 roof are already finished, and are well built. To raise 
 these arches, the intermediate spaces are built up with 
 adobe and a few timbers, and the arch laid directly on 
 this wall. When the arch is completed, the adobe is 
 removed. This seems a quicker and less expensive 
 mode than to use a framework, as we do. 
 
 South of the town are a redoubt and fort erected 
 by the Mexicans when they expected an invasion from 
 General Wool, who they heard was approaching in 
 that direction. These works are all of adobe, and are 
 said to answer well, as a cannon ball will pass 'through 
 them without making a breach. But the invasion came 
 from the north ; and Colonel Doniphan was so uncivil 
 as to give them no opportunity to use their defences, 
 but approached where there were none ; so that the 
 labor of the Santa Rosalians was thrown away. 
 
 November Qth. We were detained several hours this 
 morning to set the tires on two of our wagons, which 
 gave me an opportunity to look about the town. Eleva- 
 ted above the plain, I could see for a long distance the 
 valleys of the streams which unite here ; they seemed to 
 be quite broad, presenting a fine bottom for cultivation. 
 
 We heard from the people here, that a large band 
 of Comanches crossed the Conchos early this morning 
 near Las Garzas, and went towards the mountains on 
 our left ; evidently, with the intention of going south- 
 wardly towards the settlements, and perhaps of lying 
 in ambush for passing trains. 
 
 At 1 o'clock p. m. we again got off, and, ascending 
 
452 CHIHUAHUA 
 
 the plateau, struck across it in a direction east south- 
 east over a desert plain, with an excellent road. About 
 five miles off on our left, we saw the course of the Rio 
 Florido. It was an hour after dark before we reached 
 the village of Ramada, twenty-three miles distant, on 
 that stream. This is a place of four hundred inhabi- 
 tants, and contains, along with its tumble-down tene- 
 ments, a crumbling church. In this last, are some 
 pretty good paintings, but they are suffering much from 
 neglect ; for the people are so indolent, that they will 
 not lift a hand, even for a few hours, to fill up the cre- 
 vices in the decaying walls, to save these once valu- 
 able pictures from destruction. 
 
 November *Ith. Leaving the valley of the Rio Flo- 
 rido, our course lay south across the plateau, here 
 elevated not more than ten or fifteen feet above the 
 bottom land, which we followed for several hours. 
 Saw several large haciendas along the river with cat- 
 tle grazing near. We had hoped to reach Guajuquilla 
 to-day ; but found it best to encamp at a well about 
 twenty miles from Ramada, as we could not reach that 
 place till after dark. Experience had taught us not to 
 travel after nightfall when we could avoid it. On reach- 
 ing these towns or haciendas, we required feed for our 
 animals, which was generally corn-stalks ; and unless 
 we made arrangements an hour or two before dark, it 
 could not be obtained. There are other difficulties in 
 approaching these towns after dark, such as the ace- 
 quias and broken bridges, the difficulty of selecting 
 proper places to encamp in, etc. Where we had to 
 depend on ourselves alone, and were in an unsettled 
 country, it made no difference. 
 
TO THE RIO FLORIDO. 453 
 
 We obtained water at a well here, for which we 
 had to pay three cents a head for our animals. There 
 was a large hacienda near, the people of which seemed 
 to have no other means of living than what they obtain- 
 ed from this tax on their water. This is not an unusual 
 practice where wells, have been sunk at a great ex- 
 pense, and where men are kept to protect them. This 
 was formerly a large stock estate ; but being far from 
 any town, its cattle have all been stolen by the Indians. 
 
 The plain is here about twenty-five miles wide, 
 being limited by ranges of mountains that distance 
 apart. At the south, no mountains were visible. 
 
 November 8th. Twelve miles brought us to the old 
 town of Guajuquilla (pronounced Wa-hu-ke-yah). It 
 is also known as Jimenes (after the patriot of that 
 name) on the maps ; but in no instance did I hear it 
 called by any other than its primitive Indian title. 
 This town is situated near the river Florido, and is the 
 cleanest looking place we had thus far seen in the 
 State, the capital only excepted. Its population is 
 about seven thousand ; but for so large a place, it 
 shows very little activity, there being but three or 
 four small shops, containing altogether less goods than 
 would be found in a village store in the United States, 
 where the population did not exceed one thousand. 
 It is altogether an agricultural town, being in the midst 
 of a broad and fertile valley extending along both sides 
 of the river. As it is off the main road, few travellers 
 pass through it. Our little train, therefore, conducted 
 by about forty armed men, brought out to their doors 
 the occupants of the houses in the streets through 
 which we passed. The people were more fair and 
 
454 CHIHUAHUA 
 
 cleanly-looking than usual, and exhibited less of the 
 Indian physiognomy and complexion. Having more 
 wagon tires to set, and some blacksmith's work to do, 
 we took occasion to look about the place, and found 
 the people polite and desirous to serve us. Corn, barley, 
 vegetables, eggs, and poultry, were brought to our camp 
 for sale, for the first time since we entered the country. 
 
 South of the town is a small monument built of 
 adobe to the height of about twenty -five feet, in honor 
 of Our Lady of Guadalupe, whose full length portrait, 
 or effigy, stuck into a frame, is inserted in a niche at 
 the top of the monument. The picture is about two 
 feet in length, and appeared to be an ordinary colored 
 lithograph. The monument is an unshapely affair; 
 and seemed to be fashioned in literal obedience to the 
 command, not to make to oneself "the likeness of any 
 thing in the heavens above, or in the earth beneath, or 
 in the waters under the earth." It is but fair to add, 
 that I was told the monument was built by a priest, 
 who died before he completed his plans. 
 
 The river Florido has here a bottom of three or 
 four miles in width ; most of it is cultivated, and a 
 considerable portion in cotton, which thrives well here. 
 In fact, there is more land here under cultivation than 
 at any place I had seen in the country, not excepting 
 the valley of the Rio Grande. As an evidence of its 
 secluded position, I was told that there were but two 
 foreigners in it, a Spaniard and a Frenchman, both of 
 whom honored us with visits. 
 
 November 9th. In consequence of the deficiency of 
 tools, we made slow progress in repairing our wagons. 
 We had heard at Chihuahua of the existence of large 
 
« 
 
 TO THE RIO FLORIDO. 455 
 
 masses of native iron, or meteorites, in this part of the 
 State ; and we made inquiries respecting them as we 
 came along. We were here told that they were to be 
 found about six leagues distant. Dr. Webb determined 
 to avail himself of our detention to examine these masses. 
 He accordingly procured a guide in the town, who pro- 
 fessed to know where the objects of his inquiry were 
 to be found ; and taking with him our ten soldiers and 
 three others of our party, he set off from camp. He 
 expected, from the information given him, that he 
 could reach the place in a few hours, and be back early 
 in the morning. 
 
 Colonel Doniphan, with the army of the west, left 
 this place for Parras by the Bolson cle Mapimi. As that 
 district of country is now in possession of the Coman- 
 ches and Lipans, who are there some thousands strong, 
 it is not considered safe for parties of less than one or 
 two hundred to attempt it. We avoided it entirely by 
 keeping to the west, though it made the route full 
 three days longer. * 
 
 November 10th. Dr. Webb returned this morning 
 without having found the object of his search. It ap- 
 peared that on reaching the place designated, the guide 
 became somewhat confused ; and on being questioned 
 
 * I take this occasion to express my acknowledgment to Dr. Wisli- 
 zenus, whose " Memoir of a tour through Northern Mexico, connected 
 with Colonel Doniphan's Expedition, in 1846-47," has been of great ser- 
 vice to me, and was my only guide from Chihuahua to Guajuquilla — ■ 
 and again after leaving Parras. I have great pleasure in testifying to 
 tlie accuracy of this memoir, which is a model of its kind; and I do not 
 hesitate to say, that no official report has ever been published by our 
 government, which, in the same space, embraces so much and such ac- 
 curate information. 
 
456 CHIHUAHUA 
 
 more closely, the fellow acknowledged that he had 
 not been there in twenty years, and had forgotten 
 their precise locality. He also pretended to be much 
 alarmed on account of the Indians, and declared that 
 it was not safe to go further. The Doctor, however, 
 compelled him to lead them about for miles in every 
 direction, but to no purpose. 
 
 In the afternoon we resumed our journey, intend- 
 ing to reach Totonilco, about ten miles distant; but 
 we had not proceeded far before we found the road 
 overflowed by the bursting of an acequia which ran 
 by its side. The wagons sank deep in the mud, ren- 
 dering it extremely difficult to get along. On both 
 sides of the road were hedge fences, so that we could 
 not turn out. Mr. Flotte's large carriage got mired ; 
 and in the struggle to extricate it, the tongue and 
 hounds were broken. In consequence of this delay, 
 night overtook us before we had completed our day's 
 journey, and rendered it difficult to find our way. 
 Finally, in crossing a bridge over a large acequia near 
 the Hacienda Blanca, our large provision wagon, "the 
 ark," broke through a hole, which was not perceived 
 by those in advance, upset, and precipitated its con- 
 tents into the water. This accident was a serious one, 
 as the vehicle contained all our provisions for forty 
 days. There was no alternative, therefore, but to stop 
 where we were, directly in the road, closely hemmed 
 in with mezquit bushes. Our men were obliged to 
 jump into the water, which was three feet deep and 
 about fifteen wide. Many things sank to the bottom. 
 Our flour, which was in sacks, sugar, coffee, rice, etc., 
 were thoroughly wet. 
 
TO THE RIO FLOEIDO. 457 
 
 November 11th. Our provisions were spread out 
 in the sun to-day on India rubber blankets and tent- 
 cloths. The result of the disaster was the loss of all 
 our sugar, and about one third of the flour. After a few 
 hours' drying, the coffee and rice were stowed away 
 for a further drying in the afternoon, and we again set 
 off. Finding that Totonilco was not on our direct road, 
 we here took another, leading to the village of La Za- 
 pata (The Shoe), eighteen miles distant, which we 
 reached before sunset, and encamped. 
 
 November 12th. Our next stopping place was the 
 Hacienda del Rio Florido, about fifteen miles distant ; 
 but having heard of a remarkable meteorite at the 
 Hacienda de Conception, about six miles from the 
 direct route, I determined to let the train pass on, 
 while I with a small party took the Concepcion road. 
 Dr. Webb, Messrs. Radziminski, Seaton, Jacobs, and 
 Force, with myself, made the party. Ten miles from 
 Zapata, across the table-land, brought us to a small 
 stream, where, encompassed in a grove of cotton- 
 woods, lay the pretty village to which we were des- 
 tined. 
 
 On our arrival, we stopped under the shade of 
 some large trees, and dismounting at once discovered 
 the object of our search about fifty yards distant, at 
 the corner of a large building. This was the residence 
 of Don Juan Urquida, the proprietor of the hacienda 
 and large estates adjoining, and formerly governor of 
 the State. That no time might be lost, Dr. Webb 
 immediately set to work with his hammers and cold 
 chisels to cut off some pieces from the huge mass of 
 iron before us. This he found to be an undertaking 
 
458 CHIHUAHUA 
 
 of great labor, in consequence of the extreme tenacity 
 and hardness of the mass. After an hour's work, with 
 a man to assist him, he succeeded in cutting off three 
 or four small pieces, which did not altogether weigh 
 an ounce, and were barely sufficient for an analysis. 
 Five chisels having been broken, the Doctor had to 
 desist from his labors, much to our regret, as we were 
 desirous to obtain some specimens for cabinets. 
 
 While this was going on, I took a couple of sketches 
 of the mass, showing opposite sides, and also took mea- 
 surements ; but the form was so irregular that these 
 measurements can only aid in conveying an idea ap- 
 proximately of its bulk. Its greatest height is forty- 
 six inches ; greatest breadth thirty-seven inches ; cir- 
 cumference in thickest part eight feet three inches. 
 Its weight, as given me by Senor Urquida, is thirty- 
 eight quintals, two arrobas, three libras, which, at 
 ,/one hundred pounds to the arroba, would be equiv- 
 alent to three thousand eight hundred and fifty-three 
 pounds. 
 
 This meteorite is very irregular in form, as the 
 drawing shows ; and one side is filled with deep cavi- 
 ties, generally round, and of various dimensions. These 
 cavities were doubtless formed when the mass was cool- 
 ing. At its lower part, as it now stands, is a project- 
 ing leg, quite similar to the one on the meteorite we 
 saw at Tucson, and which I have described. The 
 back or broadest part is less jagged than the other 
 portions, and contains fewer cavities, yet, like the rest, 
 is very irregular.* 
 
 * From the various inquiries made at Guajuquilla and attheHaci- 
 
TO THE RIO FLORIDO. 459 
 
 While we were at work, Sefior Urquida, the 
 younger, the brother of Don Juan, came out. Having 
 no letters of introduction to him, I showed him a gene- 
 
 enda de Concepcion, I learned of the existence of meteorites, or masses 
 of native iron, in several places. Of those near the former place, of 
 which Dr. Webb went in search, there is no doubt. Some of them 
 are very large masses, partially buried in the earth ; while others are 
 less than the one described. There is one at San Gregorio, about fifteen 
 leagues distant ; and it is reasonable to suppose from their proximity, that 
 these several masses fell to the earth on the bursting of one and the 
 same meteor. 
 
 For the information of such of my readers as are not familiar with 
 the history of these phenomena, I will observe, in the words of a distin- 
 guished philosopher, that "Shooting stars, fire-balls, and meteoric stones, 
 are regarded with great probability, as small masses moving with planet- 
 ary velocity, and revolving in obedience to the laws of general gravity 
 in conic sections around the sun. When these masses meet the earth 
 iu their course, and are attracted by it, they enter within the limits of 
 our atmosphere in a luminous condition, and frequently let fall more or 
 less strongly heated stony fragments, covered with a shining black 
 crust." * Another distinguished writer, Kaemtz,\ after examining the 
 several hypotheses, for the origin of these igneous meteors, arrives at 
 similar conclusions to those of Baron Humboldt. "A great number of 
 observations," he says, " prove that, besides the large celestial bodies, 
 there are small ones that move in space, such as points and luminous 
 trains, which astronomers have often seen traversing the field of their 
 telescopes. These millions of asteroids moving round the sun, become 
 visible when they are ignited by entering the terrestrial atmosphere." 
 
 With regard to the masses of meteoric iron, many instances are 
 recorded where they have been known to fall to the earth on the burst- 
 ing of meteors, and have been carefully examined and analyzed by phi- 
 losophers. They present the same character, both in form and in their 
 chemical composition ; metallic iron predominating, with a few parts of 
 nickel. " The connection of meteoric stones," says Humboldt,J " with 
 
 * Humboldt's Cosmos. Vol. i. p. 98. Otto's translation. London ed. 
 + Meteorology, pp. 473-79. \ Ibid. p. 101. 
 
460 . CHIHUAHUA 
 
 ral letter which General Trias had given me to all 
 officials on my route, directing them to extend to me 
 and my party every facility in the prosecution of our 
 
 the grander phenomenon of fire-balls — the former being known to be 
 projected from the latter with such force as to penetrate from ten to fif- 
 teen feet into the earth — has been proved, among many other instances, in 
 the fall of aerolites at Barbatan, in the Department of Landes (24th of 
 July, 1790), at Siena (16th of June, 1*794), at Weston, in Connecticut 
 (14th of December, 1807), and at Juvenas, in the Department of Ar- 
 deche (15th June, 1821). Meteoric stones are sometimes thrown from 
 dark clouds suddenly formed in a clear sky, and fall with a noise resem- 
 bling thunder. Whole districts have occasionally been covered with 
 thousands of fragmentary masses, of uniform character but unequal 
 magnitude, that have been hurled from one of those moving clouds. 
 The great meteoric mass which fell in Siberia in 1771, described by 
 Pallas, was regarded by the Tartars as a sacred object fallen from hea- 
 ven. Analogous masses have been found in Bohemia, Hungary, the 
 Cape of Good Hope, Mexico, Peru, Senegal, Baffin's Bay, etc. The iron 
 is full of cavities, filled with more or less perfect crystals of olivine ; 
 when these crystals are removed, the residue still contains 90 per cent, 
 of iron, a certain percentage of nickel, and the rest needs scarcely to be 
 taken into account."* 
 
 Of the meteoric masses found in Mexico, Baron Humboldt gives the 
 following account. " In the environs of Durango, is found the enor- 
 mous mass of malleable iron and nickel, which is of the identical com- 
 position of the aerolites which fell in Hungary, in 1751. This mass is 
 affirmed to weigh upwards of 1900 myriogrammes (41,933 pounds). 
 Another mass was discovered in Zacatecas, of the weight of 97 myrio- 
 grammes (2140 pounds)." The exterior character of this was found by 
 him to be entirely analogous to the malleable iron described by Pallas.f 
 
 A collection of meteorites has been made by Professor Shepard, of 
 Amherst College, which is already said to embrace two hundred speci- 
 mens from more than a hundred different localities. Among them is one 
 from Newberry, South Carolina, weighing 58 pounds. Another mass 
 
 * Kaemtz. Meteorology, p. 4T6. 
 
 t Political Essay on New Spain. Vol. ii. p. 293. London ed. 
 
TO THE RIO FLORIDO. 461 
 
 journey to Matamoras. This gentleman was veiy 
 polite to us, and readily answered our numerous inqui- 
 ries about the mass of iron. He said it was originally 
 
 of malleable iron weighing nine pounds, was found in November, 1852, 
 in digging a ditch near Cayuga Bridge, on Seneca River, N. Y. It 
 measured four inches in diameter and seven inches in length : and what 
 adds to the interest of this, is the fact that but a few miles from where it 
 was found, a meteorite fell in 1827.* 
 
 There is another interesting account of the discovery of a meteorite 
 in the town of Charlotte, North Carolina. In this case a whizzing noise 
 was heard in the air by several persons, accompanied by a commotion 
 in the atmosphere, and the next moment a stone struck near them, 
 "with a dull heavy jar of the ground." On examination, the meteoric 
 mass referred to was discovered. The people of the town were alarmed 
 by " a sudden explosion, followed at short intervals by two other reports, 
 and by a rumbling in the air. The sounds were distinct, and continued 
 for more than half a minute." This meteor was seen through 250 
 miles.f 
 
 It is to be hoped that Professor Shepard, into whose hands this me- 
 teorite has been placed, will give the scientific world the results of his 
 extensive study of these most interesting phenomena. 
 
 Before closing this note, I will remark, that early in the evening of 
 the 1st of June, the day we left San Isabel in California, a brilliant me- 
 teor was seen by us all, passing from west to east. Another which sur- 
 passed in brilliancy, in the size of its mass, the length of its fiery train, 
 and the time of its duration any that I ever witnessed, was seen about 
 8 o'clock in the morning, between the loth and 20th October, 1852. 
 This occurred a few days before we reached Chihuahua, and passed from 
 west to east over two thirds of the horizon, at the south. On reaching 
 Ringgold Barracks, near Camargo, a few weeks after, Major Paul, the 
 commanding officer at that post, informed me that he saw the same me- 
 teor, which passed to- the north of them, and heard it explode. As it 
 doubtless dropped on the open, woodless plains of Texas, which are now 
 so much traversed, it is to be hoped that the masses which then fell 
 may be discovered. 
 
 * Silliman's Journal, for Nov. 1852. t Id. Jan. 1850. 
 
462 CHIHUAHUA 
 
 found about three hundred varas (two hundred and 
 seventy yards) from its present location, and had been 
 moved at different periods by the people of the haci- 
 enda to the place where it now stands. It was brought 
 hither with the design of putting it in a blacksmith's 
 shop, to be used as an anvil, although it had never 
 been so employed. An attempt was made to reduce 
 it, by building a large fire around it, and heating it to 
 a white heat. But so intense was the heat from so 
 large a mass, that the workmen could not approach it, 
 and all their labor was lost. The expense of this ope- 
 ration was more than one hundred dollars, and resulted 
 in obtaining a piece of the metal large enough to work 
 into a pair of spurs. 
 
 On the top, which is quite smooth, is an inscription 
 bearing the date 1600 ; but I was unable to make out 
 a single word of it, so much has it been defaced by 
 hammering and the addition of many crosses. It is 
 said that the inscription gave some account of its re- 
 moval. 
 
 Senor Urquida invited us into his house, to give 
 us the particulars of the weight of the mass as esti- 
 mated by his brother. We accepted his invitation, 
 and were conducted into a very handsome suite of 
 apartments. Here we met several gentlemen, all of 
 whom were of the higher class, extremely affable in 
 their manners, and in their conversation showing much 
 intelligence. Every thing within and around indicated 
 an air of comfort such as I had seen in no part of the 
 country, save in two or three houses in the capital. 
 A library of well-selected books in Spanish, French, 
 and English, some fine pictures, a piano, etc., showed 
 
TO THE RIO FLORIDO. 463 
 
 the occupants to possess cultivated minds, as well as 
 taste. Our gentlemanly host very politely invited us 
 to remain to breakfast;* but we were obliged to ex- 
 cuse ourselves, on the ground that we had breakfasted 
 before leaving, and that it was necessary to rejoin our 
 party on the Rio Florido without delay. 
 
 Taking leave of our polite friends, we pursued our 
 journey across the plateau, and reached the Hacienda 
 del Rio Florido, nine miles distant, at three o'clock, 
 where we found the party already encamped. 
 
 Several mules were taken sick to-day in conse- 
 quence of the greenness of the corn (maize) they had 
 eaten ; and one of them died, notwithstanding every 
 effort to save him. 
 
 This place consists of a large hacienda with a col- 
 onnade of stone, the capitals of the columns being in 
 the Moorish style. It stands on the margin of the 
 plateau, overlooking the valley of the river, and has a 
 very picturesque appearance. Adjoining this building 
 is a church, well constructed of stone, and of a better 
 description than any we had seen since leaving Chi- 
 huahua. These buildings were erected by Juan Ce- 
 rera, a Spanish priest, at which time it was considered 
 one of the richest haciendas in Mexico. At his death 
 it was divided among three of his nephews. A con- 
 siderable village, with about a thousand inhabitants, 
 now surrounds the hacienda. Twenty-six tolerably 
 
 * The usual hour for breakfast among the higher classes in Mexi- 
 co is twelve o'clock. On rising in the morning a cup of coffee or choco- 
 late only is taken, sometimes with the addition of a cracker. Dinner is 
 taken about five, and supper at ten. Many take but two meals, the 
 second one, answering for dinner and supper, at seven in the evening. 
 
464 CHIHUAHUA TO THE RIO FLORIDO. 
 
 good paintings decorate the walls of the church ; and 
 around the altar are full length portraits of the Saints, 
 inclosed in a large and massive gilt frame, extending 
 from the floor to the ceiling. In the centre is a statue 
 of " Our Lady of Guadalupe," inclosed in glass. 
 
RIO FLORIDO TO PARRAS. 465 
 
 CHAPTER XLI. 
 
 RIO FLORIDO TO PARRAS. 
 
 A mule kidnapped — La Noria — Gerro Gordo — Enter the State of Durango 
 — Another escort — Miserable condition of the Mexican soldiers — Recent 
 battle here with the Comanches — La Zarca — Vast herds of cattle and 
 horses — Scarcity of wood — Droves of horses — San Pedro del Gallo — 
 Eio Nasas — Fertile valley — Culture of cotton — Corn-fields without irri- 
 gation — La Noria de Pedrecina — Silver mines — Cuencame — Another 
 escort of civilians — La Noria Cureila — Rio Buenaval — Pozo Calvo — 
 Depredations of the Comanches — Alamo de Parras — Viesca mines — La 
 Pena — Break down — Cold weather — El Pozo — Recent incursion of In- 
 dians — Reach Parras. 
 
 November l%th. When all was in readiness to start, 
 one of our mules was missing. After hunting about 
 for him for an hour or more, we set off, leaving an 
 arriero to continue the search. A few hours after, the 
 arriero overtook us with the missing animal, which he 
 found concealed in the inner apartment of a house. 
 A woman had fortunately witnessed the roguery of one 
 of her countrymen as he slyly secreted the mule, and 
 she informed the man who was searching for it. 
 
 We made fourteen miles to-day, reaching La Noria 
 (The Draw-well) * at 2 o'clock ; but it was necessary 
 
 * Noria is properly a wheel or engine for drawing water from a 
 vol. ii. — 30 
 
466 RIO FLORIDO 
 
 to stop here, as we could not reach La Partida till after 
 dark. I had determined to avoid night travel when it- 
 could possibly be avoided, as we had gained nothing by 
 it. The roads are excellent, and we might go on for twen- 
 ty miles without meeting a rock or gully ; but the next 
 moment we might disable the train by plunging into 
 one of these places worn by the rain, or by upsetting 
 in some shelving place. There are no bridges in the 
 country, except over the acequias ; and repairs are 
 never made on the roads. If a flood washes a portion 
 away, or it is otherwise rendered unsafe to travel, the 
 place is simply avoided and a new route taken. 
 
 La Noria is merely a well with a large hacienda for 
 the raising of cattle, but with no ground for tillage. 
 As it is the only place between the Rio Florido and 
 Cerro Gordo where there is a certainty of finding 
 water, it is the general stopping-place for all passing 
 trains. The table-land here consists of alternate 
 patches of grass and chapporal, but enough of the for- 
 mer for many thousands of cattle. 
 
 November 14M. Having a long inarch before us, 
 the camp was called at an early hour ; and before the 
 sun had shed his first rays upon us, we had breakfasted 
 and were moving forwards. Our course lay over a 
 broad plain with a superb road, not surpassed by the 
 best wrought turnpike. To the east, the view was 
 limited by a low range of hills about ten miles distant; 
 while in other directions, neither hills nor mountains 
 were visible. The plain was slightly undulating, with 
 
 well ; the term is also applied to wells where wheels are so employed, 
 to distinguish them from pozos, or common wells. 
 
TO PARRAS. 467 
 
 grass and mezquit bushes at intervals. In the lowest 
 depressions where a little moisture had accumulated, 
 the mezquit appeared in thick groves to the height of 
 fifteen feet. At 4 p. m., we reached Cerro Gordo, 
 twenty-six miles from our last camp. 
 
 This is a miserable old decaying town, containing 
 less than six hundred souls ; although when Lieut. 
 Hardy passed here in 1828, he says there was a popu- 
 lation of three thousand. From the present extent of 
 the town, including its crumbling and unoccupied 
 houses, it is evident that it has been much more popu- 
 lous than at present. It contains a modern built church 
 without any pictures; there is no other object in the 
 place worthy of notice. A small stream passes through 
 it, and there is a very little arable land near. It was 
 originally established as a military post, and is still 
 maintained as such. 
 
 As we had now entered the State of Durango, it 
 was necessary to surrender the escort given me at Chi- 
 huahua. I accordingly presented my letter from Gen- 
 eral Trias to the Comandante, and requested him to 
 furnish me another escort through this State. He told 
 me that the soldiers were at my service, but expressed 
 his regrets that he had not the means of furnishing 
 them with their subsistence even for the short march re- 
 quired, and that for nearly a month he had not been able 
 to give them money enough to purchase' their daily food. 
 As their pay was but two and a half reals (31 cents) 
 a day, and as this was the only difficulty, I at once 
 offered to allow them this amount each, while they 
 were with us, and the same for returning. The Co- 
 mandante, a very polite and gentlemanly man, made 
 
468 RIO FLORIDO 
 
 many apologies for his straitened circumstances ; 
 and he requested me to send him word, when the 
 escort returned, how much I had paid them, together 
 with my address, in order that he might refund me the 
 money as soon as he should have it in his power. 
 
 About three months before our arrival, this place 
 was attacked by a band of a hundred and fifty Co- 
 manches, and a large number of mules and cattle stolen. 
 The soldiers turned out to rescue the animals ; and a 
 severe fight took place within a quarter of a mile of 
 the towD, resulting in the entire defeat of the Mexicans, 
 with the loss of a Lieutenant Colonel and six other 
 commissioned officers, together with thirty soldiers and 
 a number of citizens. 
 
 November 15th. Our journey was continued over 
 similar plains to those passed yesterday. Mountains 
 were dimly seen at a great distance to the east. There 
 was more grass and less chapporal. The road was 
 very smooth. In an arroyo, fifteen miles distant, we 
 found water, which enabled us to refresh our animals 
 and push on, reaching the hacienda of La Zarca * 
 after sunset, and making thirty-two miles. 
 
 This is now, as it ever has been, one of the largest 
 cattle ranges in the State. The estate includes several 
 villages, and has an extent of nearly a hundred miles. 
 An hour or two before we reached it, we saw immense 
 herds of cattle dotting the plain in every direction, 
 luxuriating on the rich grass which here covers every 
 portion of it. When Dr. Gregg was here, about twen- 
 ty years ago, so great was the number of cattle on this 
 
 * Zarca is a term applied to water, and means clear and pure. 
 
TO P ARRAS. 469 
 
 estate, that it was said, the proprietor had once offered 
 to sell the whole establishment, simply for the consider- 
 ation of fifty cents for each head of cattle found on it ; 
 but that no one could muster sufficient capital to take 
 up the offer. Mr. Kendall,* who stopped here on his 
 way to Mexico with the prisoners from the Santa Fe 
 expedition, says, that when this estate was at the ze- 
 nith of its prosperity, a regiment of dragoons arrived 
 from Spain and landed at Tampico. This regiment 
 was one thousand strong, and of course the men did 
 not bring their horses with them. The Colonel hap- 
 pening to be a friend of the family of the proprietress, 
 then a widow, she immediately sent him a thousand 
 white horses as a present, for the use of his regiment. 
 There was hardly a month's difference in the ages of 
 these horses, and every one of them had been raised on 
 her estate. 
 
 November IQth. The same open table-land con- 
 tinued to-day. On leaving, we descended gradually for 
 about six miles, when we found good water in a laguna 
 by the road side. We then ascended again to a higher 
 level for about twelve miles, by an easy slope. The 
 whole plain was here covered with, grass, but entirely 
 destitute even of the smallest bushes. An occasional 
 cactus or yucca rose now and then, to break the mono- 
 tony of the broad plains. Sometimes they appeared 
 in groups, and at a distance resembled men on horse- 
 back or on foot. Often were scouts sent ahead to in- 
 spect these mysterious-looking objects. 
 
 Passed several large droves of horses, which rushed 
 
 * Narrative of the Texan Santa Fe Expedition. Vol. ii. p. 111. 
 
470 RIO FLORIDO 
 
 across our path and galloped away at full speed as we 
 drew near them. There were no herdsmen with them; 
 and it was a matter of surprise to see such herds ten 
 or fifteen miles from any habitation. The best of these 
 horses may be purchased for fifty dollars each, and 
 ordinary ones for from eighteen to twenty dollars. We 
 filled our water kegs at the laguna, and, after making 
 altogether about twenty-one miles, encamped in the 
 open plain near some mezquit bushes, for the sake of 
 the fuel they afforded. Wood had been the most dif- 
 ficult of all things to procure on our journey from El 
 Paso. We gathered it from bushes as we came along ; 
 and we often, as was the case this day, were governed 
 in fixing our camp by proximity to it. 
 
 November 17th. Our route to-day lay over and 
 among low hills with a stony road, but kept gradually 
 descending towards the valley where we expected to 
 encamp. Towards noon, herds of cattle and miljpas 
 (corn-fields) indicated our approach to a settlement ; 
 and soon after, we rode into a town that glories in the 
 extraordinary name of San Pedro del Gallo (St. Peter 
 of the Cock). Miserable and filthy as were many of 
 the towns we had visited, this surpassed them all. The 
 plaza seemed to be used as a great cattle-pen, and the 
 streets as avenues to it. There was a general staring 
 at us as we entered the place. Driving through it, we 
 encamped on a level piece of ground just beyond, 
 where we were soon surrounded by a number of anx- 
 ious inquirers. As an evidence of the poverty of the 
 place, we could buy neither eggs, fowls, nor vegetables 
 — nothing but fry 'oles, and corn for the animals. 
 
 The town is supplied with water from a natural 
 
TO PARRAS. 471 
 
 well, whence it is conducted into a long trough built 
 of stone. Here the mules and cattle drank, the wo- 
 men did their washing, the people in general per- 
 formed their ablutions, and got their supply of water 
 to drink. By tapping the fountain near its source, we 
 got pure water. * 
 
 November 18th. On leaving El Gallo (as it is often 
 called for shortness) we entered some low hills, and 
 soon after crossed a plain about twelve miles wide, 
 when we reached a range of rocky hills with fantastic 
 summits. Through defiles in these we passed, and 
 entered a broad valley beyond, such as we had not 
 
 * Much as the people of the United States have been ridiculed on 
 account of the singular names applied by them to places, those of Mexi- 
 co are at least equally guilty in this respect. Every State has all the 
 saints in the calendar applied to something ; either a village, hacienda, 
 or a rancho ; and the Guadalupes and Concepcions are as common as 
 our Washingtons and Franklins. The aboriginal names are, many of 
 them, very pretty and sonorous, and these are often retained, but not 
 without some holy prefix, generally the name of a saint, as though we 
 were to say, Saint Nicholas of Manhattan, Saint Peter of Passama- 
 quoddy, etc. In looking over a geographical dictionary I find the fol- 
 lowing, some of which occur as often as our Adamses and Jeffersons. 
 
 Nombre de Dios, TJie name of God. 
 
 Madre de Dios, The Mother of God,. 
 
 Todos Santos, All Saints. 
 
 Corpus Christi, Christ's Body. 
 
 Trinidad, Trinity. 
 
 Valgame Dios, God save me. 
 
 Sacramento, Sacrament. 
 
 La Purissiina Concepcion, The most pure Conception. 
 
 Dolores, Grief. 
 
 Los Cineo Senores, The five lords. 
 
 San Pedro del Boca Leones, Saint Peter of the Lion's mouth. 
 
 Santa Cruz del Rosaria, ITie Holy Cross of the Rosary. 
 
 Cieneguita de Jesus Maria, Jesus Mari/s Little Swamp. 
 
 La Santa Magdalena, The Holy Magdalen. 
 
472 RIO FLORIDO 
 
 seen since entering the country. For miles it was 
 lined with villages and haciendas, while large cotton- 
 wood trees, the usual accompaniments of water-courses, 
 extended in a line as far as the eye could reach. Large 
 fields of corn covered the bottom-lands, and every 
 thing indicated a high state of cultivation. This was 
 the Valley of the Rio Nasas, a beautiful stream about 
 sixty yards in width that discharges itself into the 
 Lake Cayman of the maps, but which is here known as 
 the Laguna de Tlagualila, in the Bolson de Mapimi. 
 Finding a rancho on its banks, where corn and a corral 
 could be obtained, we encamped. Distance from El 
 Gallo, twenty-five miles. 
 
 The valley here is from a mile to a mile and a half 
 in width, and has long been noted for the excellent 
 quality of the cotton raised in it. The climate is said 
 to be very mild, and admirably adapted for its cultiva- 
 tion. 
 
 In our journey to-day, I noticed for the first time 
 several large fields of maize on the high grounds, with 
 no water near. The soil is excellent on these plains ; 
 and by planting the seed just before the rainy season, 
 it comes to maturity rapidly; although the yield is less 
 than when irrigation is employed, and the grain is of 
 an inferior quality. The mezquit trees in this valley 
 are larger than any seen on our route, being full 
 twenty feet in height. 
 
 November 19th. Following the bank of the Rio 
 Nasas for five or six miles, we kept on through several 
 small villages and cultivated grounds, then turned 
 suddenly to the east, and passed between two high 
 hills with flat tops. After continuing about three 
 
TO PARRAS. 473 
 
 miles through a defile, we emerged into a broad plain, 
 bounded on the east by a high range of mountains. 
 This plain was about ten miles across ; after it we passed 
 a second range, and beyond this another plain of six 
 or eight miles more, which brought us to La Noria de 
 Pedrecena, a well with a wheel, distant twenty-seven 
 miles from our starting place. Here is a church, ap- 
 parently modern, with several furnaces for smelting 
 silver ore. The town is surrounded by an adobe wall 
 twelve feet high, outside of which are many houses in 
 a state of decay. It has evidently been more populous 
 than it is at present ; for not half the houses seem to 
 be occupied. All the water used by the inhabitants is 
 taken from the well. 
 
 November 20th. While the teamsters were hitching 
 up the mules, I rode to the town, and made a call on 
 Don Tomas Pedrecena, the proprietor of the place. I 
 found him an intelligent and gentlemanly man ; and at 
 my request he furnished us a series of specimens of 
 the ore from his silver mines in the vicinity. The 
 place was originally founded by his grandfather, and 
 had descended to the gentleman we now saw, who, on 
 coming into possession, had leased the estate. The 
 lessees had for several years abandoned the working 
 of the mines, and devoted themselves to working over 
 the scoria and cinders which lay in the hillocks near 
 the town, and from which they were able by some 
 improved process to extract a considerable amount of 
 the precious metal. Senor Pedrecena took possession 
 himself about six months before our visit, finding the 
 place was fast running down. With this revival it has 
 quite an air of business. Don Tomas took us into the 
 
474 RIO FLORIDO 
 
 church, which is in good condition, and is hung with 
 pretty good pictures of a large size. An advantage 
 in these pictures was, that the name of the subject was 
 painted beneath each of them, a piece of information 
 that would have been acceptable in the case of many 
 others we had seen. 
 
 By the advice of our friend, we here left the direct 
 road, which he informed us was rough and hilly, with 
 some bad arroyos to cross, where wagons were often 
 disabled, and took that to Cuencame, about twenty 
 miles distant, which we reached early in the afternoon. 
 
 Cuencame, or Quincame, was once a place of some 
 importance, judging from its many well-built houses 
 and churches. It has three of the latter, one of which, 
 on the plaza, is quite an imposing edifice. The houses 
 on the plaza are large, and plastered outside. The 
 shops, of which there are many, are well filled with 
 goods, and have a show of business. 
 
 As the escort furnished us at Cerro Gordo left us 
 at La Noria, I called on the Prefect of Cuencame with 
 the letter of General Trias, and requested him to fur- 
 nish me another to El Alamo de Parras, or the first 
 military post in the State of Coahuila. He received 
 me politely, and expressed a willingness to further my 
 views as far as lay in his power. There were no sol- 
 diers in the place ; but he agreed to procure for us 
 seven reliable men, if I would allow them the usual pay 
 of privates, and something extra for the corporal ; an 
 offer which I readily accepted. He could not furnish 
 them animals to ride, as there were but few in the 
 place. 
 
 Between here and Parras is the most dangerous 
 
TO PARR AS. 475 
 
 part of our whole route by reason, of the Cornanches. 
 The great pass leading to the Bolson de Mapimi is 
 here, through which the Indians enter that portion of 
 Mexico. The little heaps of stones surmounted by 
 crosses, where murders have been committed by the 
 Indians, are met with at every mile ; and having got 
 along safe thus far, I did not feel disposed to risk the 
 party and train, if an escort could be had. 
 
 The present population of Cuencame is three thou- 
 sand souls, as stated to me by the Prefect. It is a very 
 old place, and the Franciscans formerly had a con- 
 vent here. It stands on a small stream, barely suffi- 
 cient to supply the wants of the people. There is no 
 bottom-land near, which gives it a most dreary appear- 
 ance. It is strictly a mining town, and has three 
 smelting works in operation. We went into them, and 
 procured specimens of the ores. 
 
 November 21st. We were detained several hours 
 waiting for our escort, so that we did not get off until 
 eleven o'clock. Our course was now east over a bad 
 road. After going about ten miles, we stopped at a 
 well called La Noria Curena, an abandoned cattle 
 hacienda, near which was good grass, but no arable 
 land. The well is covered with a handsome octagonal 
 building, having wheel-work inside for raising the water 
 by mule power. In an adjoining building we found 
 the leathern buckets, which we rigged with some diffi- 
 culty by attaching them to a broad leather band which 
 passed over a horizontal wheel, and thence down into 
 the well. On one side these buckets went down 
 empty, and on the other came up filled. The water 
 then fell into a reservoir, whence it was led to the out- 
 
476 RIO FLORIDO 
 
 side into a trough of stone about four feet wide and a 
 hundred in length. Here the animals were watered, 
 though it was with some difficulty we could get the 
 timid mules to drink from such a respectable-looking 
 affair. The Indians attacked this place shortly before 
 our arrival, took every mule and head of cattle, and 
 drove off the inhabitants ; since which time it has been 
 abandoned. 
 
 November 22d. The country had now become 
 very hilly and rough, with bad roads. On descending 
 a hill, a finch-pin was thrown from one of the wagons, 
 letting the axle down with so much force, that the 
 end of it was broken off and spoiled. Having some 
 pieces of hard wood in the train, the end was cut off 
 and a piece spliced on, a very difficult job, causing a 
 detention of four hours. To ease this axle as much as 
 possible, a portion of the load of this wagon was trans- 
 ferred to the others. We now proceeded cautiously, 
 the road still winding among mountains, and at eight 
 o'clock p. m. reached the river Buenaval, having made 
 twenty-five miles. This is a small stream which rises 
 in the State of Zacatecas, and, running north, empties 
 into the Laguna de Parras, in the Bolson de Mapimi. 
 It has no bottom-land where we crossed it ; and hence 
 is destitute of the cotton-wood trees which are so grati- 
 fying to the eye amid the general barrenness. 
 
 November 23d My intention on leaving this morn- 
 ing was to go to the Alamo de Parras, about thirty- 
 five miles distant ; but an hour or two after Ave had 
 started, our spliced axle-tree gave out, which compelled 
 us to stop at the Noria de Pozo Calvo, a well similar to 
 that of Curena. On examination we found it necessary 
 
TO PARR AS. 477 
 
 to have a new axle, a want not readily supplied with 
 our limited materials. It was, nevertheless, effected 
 by making a false axle extending two thirds the length 
 of the old one, to which it was fastened with pegs and 
 raw hide. One wheel was consequently six inches 
 further back than the other. 
 
 Near by were some fields of corn cultivated with- 
 out irrigation, which looked very well. About a 
 month before our visit, the Comanches made a de- 
 scent here, took all the cattle (about forty head) and 
 a number of mules, and killed three men who had 
 them in charge. Only three men now remained at 
 the hacienda, which they intended to abandon in a few 
 days. 
 
 November 24zth. Our march to-day was all the way 
 over the hills, and through long narrow valleys sepa- 
 rating high ridges of mountains. The road was stony 
 and rough <most of the way ; the remainder, a deep 
 sandy loam. The dust raised by a strong wind, which 
 blew directly behind us, so filled the air, that objects 
 could not be seen twenty feet ahead. The wind drew 
 through these defiles with great force, raising clouds 
 of dust independent of that caused by the mules and 
 wagons. This was the most disagreeable day's journey 
 we had had, and the most tedious ; for we did not 
 reach the Alamo de Parr as till two hours after sunset, 
 having made thirty miles. 
 
 Soon after our arrival, I called on the Alcalde of 
 the town with the letter of General Trias, and made a 
 request for an escort, as the men from Cuencame had 
 not engaged to go any further. He expressed a desire 
 to serve us ; but having no troops, he said he could only 
 
478 RIO FLORIDO 
 
 give us a guard of citizens, on my paying the custom- 
 ary charge. This I readily consented to, and request- 
 ed that seven mounted men might be placed at my 
 disposal. The Alcalde said it would not be possible 
 for him to find men who would be ready to start in 
 the morning, as it was then late. We were, therefore, 
 obliged to remain over a day. 
 
 November 25th. This town consists of a street a 
 mile or more in length, well lined on both sides with 
 neat adobe buildings, most of which are colored or 
 whitewashed. Some streets running at right angles 
 contain a few houses. The plaza and church are quite 
 ordinary and not in keeping with the rest of the town, 
 which is altogether more cleanly and business-like than 
 any we had seen since leaving Chihuahua. Ten 
 leagues distant are the Viesca silver mines, the ore 
 from which is smelted here. In my walks about the 
 town and its vicinity, I observed more cultivated 
 grounds than I had seen elsewhere. To the east is a 
 level plain full ten miles wide, intersected with irrigat- 
 ing canals in every direction. Cotton is cultivated on 
 this plain to a considerable extent, and is found to do 
 well. I procured some samples of the product, a ready 
 market for which is found at Saltillo. 
 
 November 2Qth. On the arrival of the citizen guard 
 this morning, we again set out. Our course lay east 
 over the plain mentioned yesterday, which did not con- 
 tain a tree or a bush. On passing this we entered a 
 mountain defile, and soon after reached the hacienda 
 called La Pena (The Rock). This is simply a well 
 with one large building and a cattle-pen, without any 
 arable land. It formerly possessed large numbers of 
 
TO PARRAS. 479 
 
 cattle, which grazed on the plain ; but no animals can 
 now be kept there, on account of the Indians, who are 
 complete masters of the country, notwithstanding the 
 populous towns in every direction. We did not stop 
 here, intending to reach El Pozo, three leagues further: 
 but in passing the rocky defile, one of the wagons 
 broke down, which made it impossible to proceed as 
 it was. There was no alternative but to empty it of 
 its contents, distribute them among the other wagons, 
 and lock the disabled wheel. In this manner we reach- 
 ed El Pozo late in the evening. As we approached, 
 our horsemen in advance were hailed from the walls ; 
 and by the time they came up, twenty armed men 
 were at the gate to receive them. 
 
 We by this time found the nights very cold, which 
 rendered it necessary to have fires to warm ourselves 
 when fuel could be obtained. This night in particular 
 was exceedingly cold. 
 
 El Pozo (The Deep Well) is a large hacienda in- 
 closed with a wall full twenty feet high, resembling a 
 castle or a prison ; and is a noted resort for the Co- 
 manches and the Lipans, in passing to and from the 
 Bolson de Mapimi, where they dwell. They pass every 
 few days, and we were told that a large band stopped 
 here but two days before.' On that day they attacked 
 a train of pack-mules and donkeys, and completely cut 
 it up. The men with it were missing, and it was not 
 known whether they had been killed, or had made 
 their escape to the mountains. It was at this well that 
 a band of Indians received a chastisement from a 
 detachment from Colonel Doniphan's command, when 
 
480 RIO FLORIDO 
 
 passing through here in 1847.* It is probable the In- 
 dians did not know who their antagonists were, but 
 believed them to be Mexicans. I have been often told 
 that they will not attack a party of Americans, when 
 they know them to be such ; as in their contests with 
 them, they usually get the worst of it. 
 
 November 27th. On starting this morning, we found 
 an addition of six or eight Mexicans, men and women, 
 to our party, who were going to Parras. Our road 
 wound around hills and across deep arroyos. Numer- 
 
 * " Two days before our arrival, a party of Lipan Indians, upon one 
 of their predatory excursions, had stolen from a hacienda, near Parras, 
 several hundred mules and horses, and killed several men. The pro- 
 prietor, Don Manuel de Ibarra, applied to Captain Reid of our regiment 
 (who was then ahead of us with Lieut. Col. Mitchell's party) for aid 
 against these Indians. The Captain, one of the most gallant officers, 
 took but eight men along, and, accompanied by the Don himself, went 
 back to El Pozo, where the Indians, on their march to the mountains, 
 had to pass. They had hid themselves in a corral, to await the arrival 
 of the Indians. Quite unexpectedly, about twenty of our vanguard came 
 very early this morning to El Pozo, and increased their party to thirty 
 men. Soon afterwards the Indians appeared, from forty to fifty war- 
 riors. When our men rushed from the corral on horseback to attack 
 them, the Indians (supposing them to be Mexicans) received them with 
 sneering and very contemptuous provocations ; and their confidence in 
 their bows and arrows was increased, when the Americans, firing their 
 rifles from horseback, killed none at the first charge. But as soon as 
 our men alighted, and took good aim with their rifles, the Indians fell 
 on all sides. Nevertheless, they fought most desperately, and did not 
 retire till half of them were dead or wounded. But at last they had to 
 run for their lives, and leave all their dead and all their booty behind. 
 Besides their stolen stock, thirteen prisoners, Mexican women and chil- 
 dren, whom they had carried along, were retaken, and released from 
 the brutality of their savage masters. Fifteen Indians were lying dead 
 on the field." — Dr. Wislizenus's Memoir, p. 71. 
 
TO PARR AS. 481 
 
 cms heaps of stones with crosses, together with many 
 fresh graves by the road side, reminded us of the prox- 
 imity of the savage and of the murders he had com- 
 mitted. On both sides of the road, three or four miles 
 distant, ran chains of mountains. After a gradual 
 ascent of ten miles, we saw beneath us a broad valley ; 
 and upon the right of this, at the base of the moun- 
 tains, lay the town of Parr as. The whitened walls of 
 its houses, its steeples, and the long rows and clusters 
 of cotton-wood trees, presented an agreeable contrast 
 to the bold rugged mountains in the back-ground. 
 Until quite near the town, the plain is barren and not 
 susceptible of cultivation. 
 
 It was after sunset when we entered the place, 
 and we at once drove to a sort of caravanserai, which 
 we entered with the whole train. The mules were 
 placed in a corral adjoining. Four of us quartered 
 ourselves in a small apartment in the court, the rest 
 remained in tents. 
 
 VOL. II. — 31 
 
482 
 
 PARRAS 
 
 CHAPTER XLIL 
 
 PARRAS TO SALTILLO. 
 
 Parras — Its vineyards — Numerous springs — Orchards — Plantations of the 
 Agave — Extent of its cultivation — Pulque — Hacienda Arriba — Its ex- 
 tensive wine vaults and granaries — Visit to the churches — The Ala- 
 meda — Departure from Parras — The Hacienda Abajo — Don Manuel de 
 Ibarra and General Wool — Cienega Grande — Ceguin — Vequeria — Gigan- 
 tic Yuccas — Hacienda de Patos — Don Jacobo Sanchez — His large estates 
 — Claims for indemnification on the United States — Village of Peons — 
 Encantada — Arrival of a courier with despatches from Washington — 
 Buena Vista — The Barrancas — Ramble over the battlefield — Relics 
 found — Reach Saltillo — No work on a feast day — Fine church — Cotton 
 factories — Dr. Hewison — Economical use of water. 
 
 November 28th to December 1st. We remained at Par- 
 ras five days, to repair our wagons. One wheel and 
 an axle had to be made new throughout. The delay 
 was longer than was needed for the work, in conse- 
 quence of the loss of two days by the drunkenness of 
 our most important mechanics. We had to submit 
 quietly to this imposition, as no others could be found. 
 The time passed heavily, as there was but little of 
 interest in or about the town, and the sight-seeing was 
 soon accomplished. 
 
 Parras is the best built town we had yet seen in 
 the country. Many of the houses are of two stories, 
 being quite spacious, with courts in the centre, and 
 
TO SALTILLO. 483 
 
 built with much taste. They possess, too, a degree of 
 comfort, and even luxury, not found in the modern 
 houses of the country. It is an old settled place, and 
 has always been noted for the excellence of its wine 
 and brandy. A species of wild vine was found here 
 by the first settlers, whence its name ;* they also 
 brought with them the vites vim/era of Asia, which 
 flourished well. The extensive cultivation of the grape, 
 for which the position of the town is admirably adapt- 
 ed, as well as the extent of arable land near, drew 
 together a large and highly respectable population. 
 Although now much reduced in their worldly means, 
 there are many old families remaining, who possess all 
 the dignity and elegance of manner which always cha- 
 racterized the native Spaniard. 
 
 The town extends for a couple of miles along the 
 side of a hill. The smaller vineyards run along the 
 declivity, the larger ones beyond the town, on the 
 plain. The hill, which consists of a porous limestone, 
 abounds in water, which is collected in tanks, and 
 conducted by acequias through the vineyards and the 
 principal streets of the town. Besides these acequias 
 there are numerous wells ; in fact, every house of any 
 extent has its own well within its court. When the 
 town has supplied itself, the remainder is conducted 
 by aqueducts or ditches off to the plains, where it is 
 all absorbed in irrigating, first, the gardens and vine- 
 yards, and beyond these the fields of wheat and maize. 
 So admirable and economical a use of water I have 
 never before seen. 
 
 * Parm, a vine trained on sticks, or nailed to a wall. 
 
484 PARRAS 
 
 The town on the lower side is encompassed with 
 gardens and orchards, in which we saw pomegranate, 
 fig, pear, and other trees growing with great luxuri- 
 ance. On the hill back of the town, I saw for the first 
 time plantations of the maguey (agave Americana), 
 the leaves of which were from six to seven feet in 
 length. They are planted in rows, and surrounded by 
 a hedge of the same, making a most formidable breast- 
 work against both man and beast. It is from these 
 plants that the pulque is made.* We had seen the 
 
 * The sap of the maguey is obtained by making an incision in the 
 central leaves or heart of the plant, which incision is converted into a 
 kind of reservoir for the collection of the juice, by drawing the lateral 
 leaves close together and tying their extremities. 
 
 " This is the true vegetable spring, which keeps running for two or 
 three months, and from which the Indian draws three or four times a 
 day. We may judge of the quickness or slowness of the motion of the 
 juice by the quantity of honey extracted from the maguey at different 
 times of the day. A foot commonly yields, in twenty-four hours, four 
 cubic decimetres (or two hundred and forty-two cubic inches, English), 
 equal to eight quartillos. Of this total quantity they obtain three quar- 
 tillos at sunrise, two at mid-day, and three at six in the evening. A 
 very vigorous plant sometimes yields fifteen quartillos, or four hundred 
 and fifty-four cubic inches, English, per day, for from four to five 
 months, which amounts to the enormous volume of more than eleven 
 hundred cubic decimetres, or sixty-seven thousand one hundred and 
 thirty cubic inches. This abundance of juice, produced by a single 
 maguey of scarcely a metre and a half in height, or four and nine tenths 
 feet, is so much more astonishing, as the agave plantations are in the 
 most arid grounds, and frequently on banks of rocks hardly covered 
 with vegetable earth. In a barren soil, the Indian calculates the product 
 of each maguey at one hundred and fifty bottles, and the value of the 
 pulque furnished in a day at from ten to twelve sols. The produce is 
 unequal, like that of \he vine, which varies very much in its quantity of 
 grapes. 
 
TO SALTILLO. 485 
 
 ■ 
 
 maguey growing wild throughout the desert plains of 
 Chihuahua, Sonora, and California; but nowhere does 
 it attain the size which it reaches in these plantations. 
 
 " The cultivation of the maguey has real advantages over the culti- 
 vation of maize, grain, and potatoes. This plant, with firm and vigorous 
 leaves, is neither affected by drought nor hail, nor the excessive cold 
 which prevails in winter on the higher Cordilleras of Mexico. The 
 stalk perishes after efflorescence. If we deprive it of the central leaves 
 it withers, after the juice, which nature appears to have destined to the 
 increase of the hampe, is entirely exhausted. An infinity of shoots then 
 spring from the root of the decayed plant ; for no plant multiplies with 
 greater facility. An arpent of ground contains from twelve hundred to 
 thirteen hundred maguey plants. If the field is of old cultivation, we 
 may calculate that a twelfth or fourteenth of these plants yields honev 
 annually. A proprietor who plants from thirty thousand to forty thou- 
 sand maguey is sure to establish the fortune of his children ; but it re- 
 quires patience and courage to follow a species of cultivation which only 
 begins to grow lucrative at the end of fifteen years. In a good soil, the 
 agave enters on its efflorescence at the end of five years ; and in a poor 
 soil no harvest can be expected in less than eighteen years. Although 
 the rapidity of the vegetation is of the utmost consequence for the Mexi- 
 can cultivators, they never attempt artificially to accelerate the devel- 
 opment of the hampe, by mutilating the roots or watering them with 
 warm water. It is discovered that by these means, which weaken the 
 plant, the confluence of juice towards the centre is sensibly diminished. 
 A maguey plant is destroyed if, misled by false appearances, the Indian 
 makes the incision long before the flowers would have maturely devel- 
 oped themselves." — Thompson 's Alcedo. 
 
 " The juice of the agave has a very agreeable sour taste. It easily 
 ferments on account of the mucilage and sugar which it contains. To 
 accelerate the fermentation they add a little old and acid pulque. The 
 operation is terminated in three or foar days. The vincus beverage, 
 which resembles cider, has an odor of putrid meat extremely disagree- 
 able ; but the Europeans who have been able to get over the aversion 
 which this foetid odor inspires, prefer the pulque to every other liquor. 
 They consider it as a stomachic, strengthening, and especially very nutri- 
 tive ; and it is recommended to lean persons. Whites, also, have 
 
486 PARRAS 
 
 At the southern extremity of the town, is a large 
 
 estate belonging at present to Don Arguire, called 
 
 the " Hacienda Arriba" or the upper hacienda, to dis- 
 tinguish it from the " Haciendo Abajo" or lower haci- 
 enda, of Don Manuel de Ibarra, four miles distant. This 
 is one of the nlost extensive and valuable estates in 
 Coahuila. Its chief products are wine and wheat. The 
 vineyards which surround it, extend twelve hundred 
 varas (3240 feet) into the plain, while beyond these 
 are extensive fields of wheat and maize. As it seldom 
 rains here, the cultivation of the grape as well as of 
 the cereals, depends wholly upon irrigation ; yet there 
 is no river to supply it. In the rear of this hacienda, 
 about half a mile distant, the water oozes from numer- 
 ous springs in the side of a hill ; which unite at the 
 base and form a small stream. This stream as it passes 
 over the porous rocks, receives constant additions. As 
 the descent is considerable, the whole of this water is 
 controlled, and conveyed through a stone aqueduct, 
 first to a flouring mill, and then to the vineyards, gar- 
 dens, and fields of the hacienda arriba, furnishing an 
 
 been known, like the Mexican Indians, totally to have abstained from 
 water, beer, and wine, and to have drank no other liquor than the juice 
 of the agave. Connoisseurs speak with enthusiasm of the pulque pre- 
 pared in the village of Hocotitlan, to the north of Toluca, at the foot of 
 a mountain almost as elevated as the Nevada of this name. They 
 affirm that the excellent quality of this pulque does not alogether de- 
 pend on the art with which the liquor is prepared, but also on a taste of 
 the soil communicated to the juice, according to the fields in which the 
 plant is cultivated. There are plantations of maguey near Hocotitlan 
 {haciendas de pulque) which bring in annually more than forty thousand 
 livres, or one thousand six hundred and sixty-six pounds sterling (about 
 eight thousand dollars). — Alcedo. Humboldt's JYeiv Spain. 
 
TO SALTILLO. 487 
 
 abundance for all. In fact, with the fall, there is suffi- 
 cient power to cany other mills, before it reaches the 
 plain where it is to be absorbed by the soil. A portion 
 of this prolific supply, is led by an acequia through the 
 town. 
 
 I made a visit to this hacienda, with several gen- 
 tlemen of my party ; where we were politely received 
 by the superintendent, who conducted us through the 
 establishment. The wine vaults are built of adobe, 
 with walls about twenty-five feet in height. By an 
 inscription on the rafters, it appears to have been roof- 
 ed over in the year 1775 ; yet the timber did not ap- 
 pear to be more than ten years old. The building is said, 
 however, to be much older, the rafters being a portion 
 of the renewed edifice. The several kinds of wine and 
 brandy were arranged in very large casks on both sides 
 of the vault, the whole exhibiting great cleanliness and 
 order. The wine, both white and red, that I tasted, 
 was far superior to that made at El Paso. About ten 
 thousand gallons are made here annually, for which 
 there is a good market in Coahuila and the adjoining 
 States. The amount of wheat raised on the estate, is 
 about two thousand fanegas, or 5250 bushels; all of 
 which is converted into flour at the hacienda. The 
 granaries are spacious buildings, about one hundred 
 and fifty feet long, from forty to fifty wide, and twen- 
 ty-five feet high. These, as well as all the buildings 
 belonging to the establishment, are but one story in 
 height. Extensive improvements are now going on, 
 with the addition of new buildings ; these are of adobe, 
 plastered over with mortar, and hard finished, and 
 have a very beautiful appearance. This hacienda was 
 
488 PARRAS 
 
 purchased by its present owner about four years before 
 for $130,000, and now yields an annual income of from 
 twenty -five to thirty thousand dollars. 
 
 There is another large wine manufacturer in Parras, 
 Don Jesus Campus, whose establishment we also visit- 
 ed, and which like the former, was kept in fine order. 
 I bought a keg of wine of him, which was said to be 
 ten years old, and a superior article. It was put up 
 with great care ; yet, on arriving at New- York, it was 
 found to be sour. All others who have attempted to 
 transport this wine to the United States, have been 
 equally unsuccessful. 
 
 Parras contains three churches, which were shown 
 to us by the cura, Juan B. Bobadilla, a courteous 
 and intelligent gentleman. Two of them abound in 
 pictures of a higher standard than any we had seen. 
 More care, too, was taken of them, as well as of the 
 churches, which were in good condition, and exhibited 
 none of those symptoms of decay prevalent every 
 where, except in Chihuahua. 
 
 The cura manifested much interest in scientific pur- 
 suits, and was quite desirous to know what we had col- 
 lected. He presented us with some specimens of min- 
 erals, reptiles, and insects, and promised to send me a 
 larger collection as soon as he could procure them. 
 
 I have omitted to speak of two fine Alamedas, the 
 fashionable promenades of the town. These are beau- 
 tifully shaded with long rows of large cotton-wood 
 trees, while flowers and lesser plants ornament the 
 walks. 
 
 We made several pleasant acquaintances here, and 
 found that Americans were much respected. Many 
 
TO SALTILLO. 489 
 
 inquiries were made about General Wool and his offi- 
 cers, who were here during the war, and who seem to 
 have made a favorable impression on the people. 
 
 December 2d. Our repairs being completed, we left 
 in the afternoon, and proceeded as far as the Hacienda 
 abajo or San Lorenzo, a large and elegant establish- 
 ment surrounded by lines and clusters of old cotton- 
 woods. Vineyards and corn-fields extended far and 
 wide over the plain. The owner, Don Manuel de Ibar- 
 ra, being absent, we did not visit the interior. The 
 whole constitutes a large village. It derives its sup- 
 ply of water from springs in the hills. Don Manuel 
 treated General Wool and the officers of the American 
 army with great respect when here ; in return for 
 which, they sent parties against the Indians who had 
 committed depredations on his herds. To this gentle- 
 man also belongs the hacienda at El Pozo, where the 
 fight took place between Captain Reid and the Lipans, 
 before mentioned. 
 
 December 3d. Our route to-day was hilly and tor- 
 tuous. We made twenty miles ; which brought us to 
 a cluster of houses known as the Cienega Grande 
 (Great Marsh), belonging to Don Rey de Guerrero. 
 Fields of wheat were near, with acequias from springs 
 in the mountains. 
 
 December Ath. We travelled to-day eighteen miles 
 over a rough and hilly country, the road much cut up 
 with ravines and deep with dust. Saw no cultivation 
 or arable land until we reached Ceguin, where there 
 was a cluster of houses, with fields of maize and wheat ; 
 but the people were too lazy to bring us corn-stalks 
 for our animals. They said it was too much trouble. 
 
490 PARRAS 
 
 Fortunately we brought a little from Cienega Grande, 
 or we should have been badly off for fodder. 
 
 December 5th. The country was much the same to- 
 day as yesterday, with low hills and valleys alternating, 
 and intersected with arroyos which required much care 
 in crossing. Passed several cornfields, with which 
 exception all was barren and desert-like. At sunset 
 reached Vequeria, a hacienda near a spring, twenty- 
 five miles from our starting place. As we passed along, 
 I noticed many gigantic yuccas growing in the form of 
 trees with trunks and branches. 
 
 The different species of yucca, of which frequent 
 mention has been made, form a conspicuous feature in 
 the vegetation. They present a great variety of foli- 
 age, some narrow and grass-like, and others rigid and 
 firm enough to serve for a "Spanish bayonet," a pop- 
 ular name given to the larger kinds. All are furnished 
 with a sharp hard point at the end of the leaf, which 
 is capable of inflicting a severe wound, and which soon 
 teaches the incautious traveller to give them a wide 
 berth. While some have no stem at all, others have 
 a trunk twenty -five or thirty feet high and from two 
 to three feet in diameter. The largest specimens we 
 saw were near Parras, where the table-lands are cov- 
 ered with them. This species throws out at the top 
 ten or a dozen branches which are bent in all possible 
 directions. A plain covered with yuccas presents a 
 beautiful appearance when in flower with their pure 
 white blossoms arranged in pyramidal spikes several 
 feet in length. The Mexicans and Indians put the 
 different species to various domestic uses. The leaves 
 of the narrower kinds are made into baskets, and the 
 
TO SALTILLO. 
 
 491 
 
 fibres of the leaves are twisted into coarse ropes. The 
 trunks of the large species are used in the absence of 
 other timber as palings for making inclosures, or are 
 split into slabs to serve for covering the rude houses 
 of the rancheros. 
 
 Yucca Tree. 
 
 Some species bear an edible fruit cailed by the 
 Mexicans latiros. These are about the size and shape 
 of the banana, and when fully ripe are very sweet and 
 palatable. The tender portion of the stem near where 
 the leaves are produced is roasted and eaten under the 
 name of quiote ; but it is rather stringy and insipid. 
 One of our party saw at an Apache camp a pot-full of 
 
492 PARRAS 
 
 the flowers boiling for food. The uncooked flowers 
 have quite a bitter taste ; but this may probably be 
 removed by boiling. The roots of a narrow-leaved 
 species called amole are used, instead- of soap, for wash- 
 ing clothes; bruised between stones, they afford a 
 mucilage when rubbed upon the clothes, which seems 
 to possess considerable detergent properties. The 
 root is generally kept for sale in the towns, and, where 
 soap is so very dear, affords an economical substitute. 
 December 6th. Our intention was to reach the 
 rancho of San Juan to-day. Soon after leaving, we 
 saw through an opening in the hills on our left, about 
 a mile distant, the Hacienda de Patos. This place is 
 the property of Don Jacobo Sanchez, and is said to be 
 the finest in the State of Coahuila. This gentleman is 
 said to be the owner of three quarters of the landed pro- 
 perty in the State, including several large and valuable 
 haciendas, well stocked with cattle, mules, and horses. 
 He has lost large numbers by the Indians, and, I am 
 told, has made a claim on the United States for a mil- 
 lion and a half of dollars as an indemnification for 
 these losses. Yet he takes no pains to protect his 
 property, not even arming his herdsmen, and never 
 pursues the Indians or makes any efforts to recover 
 what he has lost. In entering into a compact with 
 Mexico for the protection of her frontier, the United 
 States certainly expected either the Mexican govern- 
 ment or the proprietors to do something for their own 
 protection. The lands of Don Jacobo extend in a con- 
 tinuous line more than a hundred miles. Such a land- 
 holder could well afford to support a body of expert 
 riflemen or rangers, who should be always on the alert 
 
TO SALTILLO. 493 
 
 and pursue the Indians whenever found on his domain. 
 Mules are extremely plentiful here, and are valued at 
 twenty dollars a head on an average. I presume Don 
 Jacobo estimates his mules in his claim on the United 
 States at from fifty to sixty dollars a head. This is about 
 the advance that Americans put upon their property, 
 of whatever nature, when the government is to pay 
 for it ; and we can hardly expect the Mexicans to be 
 more moderate than our own citizens. 
 
 One of our wagons broke down to-day and so 
 injured the axle-tree that it would not retain its wheel. 
 It was, therefore, taken off and the axle sustained by a 
 long pole. 
 
 Our road ascended gradually until we reached an 
 elevated plain with high mountains around us. Passed 
 several ranchos, with large fields of maize. These 
 fields were in the depressions of the plain, and 
 derived sustenance from the drainage of the moun- 
 tains. The corn looked as well as when artificially 
 irrigated. Among the villages passed was one ex- 
 clusively of Peons. It consisted of a cluster of ex- 
 tremely rude dwellings or huts around a square, many 
 of which were built entirely of the yucca tree. Its 
 trunk set upright formed the walls and doors, while its 
 leaves, placed on poles, after the manner of thatching, 
 made the roof. Want and wretchedness were stamped 
 upon these rude hovels, as well as on the poor cre- 
 tures who occupied them. 
 
 We tried to buy corn-stalks here, but they had 
 none for sale, which obliged us to move on. When 
 opposite San Juan, a cluster of miserable huts a quar- 
 ter of a mile from the road, I sent to see if fodder 
 
494 PARRAS 
 
 could be procured ; but, much to our surprise, the peo- 
 ple would sell none, although there were large corn- 
 fields near. It was, therefore, necessary for us to push 
 on and. endeavor to reach Encantada, ten miles further. 
 The road proving very good, we got along very well 
 after dark by driving cautiously, and arrived at our 
 place of destination in safety — a place rendered famous 
 from its connection with the campaigns of General 
 Taylor and the battle of Buena Vista. Distance trav- 
 elled to-day, thirty -two miles. 
 
 December 7th. Before I had risen this morning, I 
 was aroused by the arrival of a courier bringing me 
 dispatches from Washington, and letters announcing the 
 arrival of Major Emory and his corps of engineers at 
 Ringgold Barracks, Texas. 
 
 Encantada (Enchanted) is a small village, where 
 the American army under General Taylor was en- 
 camped at the time of the approach of Santa Ana 
 with his army of twenty-five thousand men, pre- 
 vious to the battle of Buena Vista. Not finding the 
 position an advantageous one, he fell back and took 
 position at Angostura, the narrowest portion of the 
 valley leading to and beyond Saltillo, which is six 
 miles distant. This valley or pass lies between two 
 ridges of mountain five or six miles apart, which ap- 
 proach towards the north-east, until at Angostura the 
 space is not more than two miles. The eastern range 
 is much the highest, rising ten or twelve hundred feet 
 above the plateau ; the western is about half that 
 height. The plateau from the eastern ridge extends 
 about a mile, or half way across the valley, when it 
 drops off abruptly to the flat or alluvial bottom. In 
 
TO SALTILLO. 495 
 
 this bottom runs a small rivulet, which takes its rise 
 at Encantada ; but at times, after heavy rains, it is so 
 much swollen that it has cut for itself a deep bed, with 
 perpendicular banks, from twenty to thirty feet deep. 
 This bed is quite inaccessible from above, except in a 
 few places. These deep gullies or ravines are called 
 barrancas, and are peculiar to the country. The tena- 
 city of the soil prevents it from crumbling, except at 
 the base, where the water washes it away. The upper 
 portion then projects, until it has become so much 
 undermined that it cannot sustain itself, when it breaks 
 off, leaving perpendicular walls. These barrancas ex- 
 tend for more than a mile above and below the nar- 
 row pass. They also intersect various parts of the 
 bottom, rendering it impossible for a body of troops 
 to traverse it. Hence all the operations were confined 
 to the plateau above, which extends to the eastern 
 range of mountains. The battery of Colonel Washing- 
 ton was stationed between the barrancas and a spur of 
 the plateau, a narrow pass some sixty or eighty feet 
 in width. 
 
 The road leads directly through this pass ; and on 
 reaching it, we stopped within the redoubt thrown up 
 by Colonel W. I told the men to fasten their teams, 
 and all that felt disposed to visit the battle field 
 to do so. We walked up one of the steep hills or 
 spurs, and reached the plateau, where the party 
 strolled about in all directions as far as the mountains. 
 I had a plan of the battle with me, which enabled us 
 to find the positions occupied by our several bodies 
 of troops. Many relics were found, such as grape shot, 
 bullets of lead and copper, gun-flints, fragments of 
 
496 PARRAS 
 
 gun-locks, cap trimmings, etc., also a few fragments of 
 human bones. I took two sketches of the battle field, 
 one looking south, the other towards Saltillo. About 
 two miles distant is the small village of Buena Vista. 
 The Mexicans call the place where the battle was 
 fought Angostura, which means a narrow pass. 
 
 Leaving this ever-memorable spot, we pushed for- 
 ward, and at two o'clock reached Saltillo. The town 
 is completely hidden from view until one reaches the 
 brink of the hill in front of it. We drove at once to a 
 court-yard on one of the main streets, where we 
 found accommodations for the whole party. The ani- 
 mals were placed in a corral near by. 
 
 We had been in town but a short time when our 
 arrival became known ; for our train of six large wag- 
 ons, five ambulances and carriages, and about forty 
 long-bearded men, armed to the teeth, always pro- 
 duced a sensation when we entered these quiet towns 
 and villages. Several Americans residing in the place 
 made their appearance before we had got stowed away 
 in our quarters, and brought us the news of the result 
 of the Presidental election. 
 
 December 8th. Having some repairs to make on a 
 wagon, we applied to a blacksmith, but he declined 
 working, as it was "El dia de la Purissima Concep- 
 cion," when a great celebration was to take place in 
 the church. Before this man could work or allow his 
 shop to be used, we were obliged to ask permission 
 from the gefe politico — a privilege that was readily 
 granted. This being done, we spent the remainder 
 of the day in looking at the town and its fine churches. 
 The principal church, which occupies one side of the 
 
TO SALTILLO. 497 
 
 plaza, is a noble edifice, though its exterior is yet 
 unfinished. Its interior surpassed any thing we had 
 yet seen, not excepting the cathedral at Chihuahua. 
 It abounds in pictures, some of which are very fine, 
 and are doubtless the work of the old masters. The 
 architectural ornaments, sculptures, gilding, etc., ex- 
 hibit much taste, and are in fine preservation. We 
 went to the roof and towers, which enabled us to see 
 the thorough manner of its construction. Our New 
 York builders might obtain some useful hints by exam- 
 ining this edifice, the walls of which are double in thick- 
 ness that of any similar building in New York city. 
 
 December 9t7i. I rode this morning with Dr. Hew- 
 ison, an Irish gentleman long resident in Mexico, to 
 visit his cotton factory about three miles distant. It is 
 a neat building of adobe and stone, two stories high. Its 
 power is obtained from a spring of water about a mile 
 distant, in the direction of the hills. This water is 
 first collected in a reservoir, and propels a grist-mill ; 
 from this it is carried through an aqueduct, and fur- 
 nishes the power for three small cotton mills, of which 
 that of Dr. Hewison is one. When these have used it, 
 it is conducted to other small grist-mills ; and when it 
 has been made to do all this work, and has reached the 
 level plain, it is led by acequias to irrigate the gar- 
 dens and fields of maize and wheat. So careful are 
 the mill owners of this water, that it is not allowed to 
 escape and run off at night, or when the mills are not 
 in operation. At such times the gates are closed, and 
 the water collected in a stone reservoir above. 
 
 I was enabled to ascertain the exact quantity of 
 water from which all this power is obtained. The 
 
 vol. it. — 32 
 
498 P ARRAS TO SALTILLO. 
 
 stone aqueduct through which it ran was eighteen 
 inches broad, and the water between ten and twelve 
 inches deep. One of the mills was carried by an over- 
 shot wheel forty feet in diameter; the others by 
 wheels somewhat less. The superintendent of Dr. 
 Hewison's mill is from Rhode Island. The operatives 
 are all Mexicans, and, I was told are very quick at 
 learning the art of weaving, and much easier to man- 
 age than American operatives. The cotton used is 
 raised in the valleys near, and a ready market is found 
 for the goods as fast as they are produced. 
 
 This factory was the favorite ride of General Tay- 
 lor while in Saltillo ; and it was a source of gratifica- 
 tion to find that the officers of the American army 
 were still held in high respect by the citizens of the 
 place. 
 
 Saltillo, the capital of Coahuila, is a well-built city, 
 with paved streets. Many of its houses are of two 
 stories, and all of them painted in warm colors. The 
 population is about fifteen thousand. Besides the 
 churches mentioned, there is an unfinished edifice, 
 which was commenced by the Jesuits. The Alameda 
 is the finest place of the kind we had yet seen. It is 
 filled with large trees, and its walks are lined with 
 agaves and rose-bushes. In the evening I called, ac- 
 companied by the gentlemen of the Commission, to pay 
 our respects to Dr. Hewison and his lady. 
 
SALTILLO TO RINGGOLD BARRACKS. 499 
 
 CHAPTER XLIII. 
 
 SALTILLO TO RINGGOLD BARRACKS. 
 
 Leave Saltillo — Accident at the start — Enter the Rinconada Pass — A night 
 in the defile — Los Muertos — Ampudia's redoubt — Magnificent scenery 
 — Hacienda of the Einconada — Sierra Mitra — Santa Catarina — Suburbs 
 of Monterey — Loma de Independencia — Arrival at Monterey — Pronun- 
 ciamentos — Visit the Bishop's palace — Beautiful valley — The citadel — 
 Prosperity of the city — Its climate — Elevation — Departure — Marin — 
 Ramos — Oarrizitos — Dense chapporal — Miss the road — Cerralvo — Pun- 
 tiagudo — Bad road — Mier — Trade for serapes — Texan Mier Expedition 
 — Character of the Rio Grande above Mier — Ascent of a steamboat to 
 Loredo — Ancient oyster beds — Rio San Juan — Mexican brigade — Ca- 
 margo — Cross the Rio Grande — Arrival at Ringgold Barracks. 
 
 December 10th. As we were not yet out of the reach 
 of the Indians, I applied to, and was furnished with 
 an escort of ten mounted men by the authorities here, 
 who were promptly on the ground at the hour named 
 for starting. Our repairs being completed, we left 
 Saltillo this morning, but had not proceeded more than 
 three or four miles, slowly over a smooth and level 
 road, when the wheel of another wagon gave way, 
 without any apparent cause. On examination it was 
 found that most of the spokes and the rim were broken, 
 so that the wheel was utterly ruined. Fortunately, 
 we were near Dr. Hewison's factory, to which I rode 
 
500 SALTILLO 
 
 immediately, and was promptly furnished by the 
 superintendent with a beam, which we rigged to the 
 end of the axle as a drag. After the delay of an hour 
 or two, we again moved forward. "We passed many 
 haciendas and ranchos, and after proceeding about 
 twelve miles entered the famous Rinconada pass.* 
 The road now became very uneven with a continuation 
 of hills and valleys, while mountains rugged and lofty 
 rose on either side; the defile averaging about two 
 miles in width. Passed a monument erected by the 
 ladies of Saltillo on the spot where some Americans 
 had been murdered by robbers. After making about 
 twenty-five miles, we reached a rancho in the pass 
 called Los Muertos (The Dead), where, just at sunset, 
 we encamped. A small stream flowed by, lined with 
 large cotton-wood trees. 
 
 December 11th. It was very cold when we left- 
 camp this morning, our elevation now being 6104 feet 
 above the level of the sea, so that all wrapped them- 
 selves in blankets or overcoats. Our escort, who put 
 on their gaudy serapes, made a very picturesque 
 appearance. Soon after leaving we reached a narrow 
 and steep descent, where we were obliged to wait for 
 a train that was coming up, before we could descend. 
 Here the pass did not exceed five hundred yards in 
 width. Near this, on the left, is a spur of the moun- 
 tain which overlooks and commands the defile, where 
 General Ampudia erected a battery or breastwork, for 
 the purpose of checking the advance of the American 
 army. While the train was waiting, I went out to 
 
 * Rinconada, a corner or lurking place. 
 
TO RINGGOLD BARRACKS. 501 
 
 examine this work, which was but a few rods off, and 
 took a sketch of the magnificent defile. Far ahead, 
 we could just perceive the picturesque summit of the 
 Sierra Mitra (Mitre Mountain), so named from the 
 striking resemblance of one of the summits in the range 
 to a bishop's mitre. The place selected for the Mexi- 
 can battery would have greatly embarrassed our army 
 had it been maintained ; but after the fall of Monterey, 
 it was abandoned. 
 
 Soon after descending this hill, we reached the 
 rancho of Rinconada in a curious little nook in the 
 mountain resembling a horseshoe, which gives its name 
 to the pass. From the number of fruit trees and cul- 
 tivated grounds it had doubtless been once a thriving 
 place. Every thing now seemed to be fast going to 
 ruin. 
 
 We continued to descend the whole day ; yet, owing 
 to the roughness of the road, and our three-wheeled 
 wagon, we were obliged to drive with great caution, 
 that we might not further disable ourselves. Our 
 escort pointed out to us as we progressed another 
 rancho, which was attacked by a band of Indians a 
 few months before, and all the inmates murdered. 
 
 We were unable to reach Monterey as we had 
 hoped to do, and it was long after dark when we 
 reached the village of Santa Catarina, at the base of 
 the Sierra Mitra and about twenty miles from the Rin- 
 conada, where we encamped. 
 
 December 12th. Soon after leaving, we passed the 
 Molino de Jesus Maria, a large flouring mill, and shortly 
 after reached the Loma de Independencia upon which 
 stands the Bishop's palace, so celebrated in the opera- 
 
502 SALTILLO 
 
 tions of the American army during the investment of 
 Monterey. Having now reached the valley in which 
 stands the city, we passed by walled inclosures where, 
 among a variety of fruit and ornamental trees, we saw 
 some loaded with oranges and lemons. Stone houses 
 with high thatched roofs, surrounded by pretty gar- 
 dens with more of an air of comfort than any we had 
 seen, lined the approach to the city. On entering, 
 we drove to a corral ; and after putting up the wagons 
 and animals, we took up our quarters at Coindreau's 
 Hotel ; a spacious building with a large court, in the 
 style of the country. One might have imagined that 
 another bombardment was going on from the roar of 
 cannon, as we entered the town ; but it proved to be 
 nothing more formidable than the celebration of the 
 day of the " Holy Lady of Guadalupe," one of the 
 greatest festivals of the country. 
 
 December 13th. Lost no time in setting the black- 
 smith and carpenter at work, and in the mean time 
 sallied forth to see what was remarkable in and about 
 the city. We found several Americans in the place, 
 although the number had greatly diminished within a 
 year. There are a great many shops, and every de- 
 scription of goods to be found in them. In many of 
 them the clerks speak English, acquired during the 
 occupation of the city by the Americans. A large 
 commerce has now grown up between Monterey and 
 the United States, which will tend to Americanize the 
 place. At the time of our visit, the singular state of 
 the frontier had greatly contributed to increase this 
 commerce. Pronunciamentos, another name for revo- 
 lutions, were then in vogue at Matamoras, Camargo, 
 
TO RINGGOLD BARRACKS. 503 
 
 Monterey, and other towns, under various political 
 pretexts ; while the real object was to destroy the 
 custom-houses, for the purpose of introducing mer- 
 chandise without duty. Large quantities had thus 
 been brought in, and sent into the interior of the 
 country. 
 
 Rode out to the Bishop's palace ; from which, as 
 well as from the Loma de Independencia in the rear, 
 one obtains a fine view of the city. This is a fine old 
 building of stone, and in its day was no doubt an ele- 
 gant structure ; it was in ruins, however, long before 
 General Worth took it. The hill on which it stands is 
 about one hundred and twenty -five feet high ; but the 
 portion where the American forces made their charge, 
 is some fifty feet higher. On reaching that, they com- 
 manded the palace, where the Mexicans had entrench- 
 ed themselves behind a strong battery, but which they 
 were soon compelled to evacuate. 
 
 The city stands on a plain about a mile distant, 
 and is embosomed among beautiful gardens and or- 
 chards, its white houses presenting a striking contrast 
 with the deep green of the foliage. To the south, 
 runs a small stream, a branch of the San Juan River, 
 in the midst of a broad arroyo; beyond which a chap- 
 poral plain interspersed with a few cornfields, extends 
 about seven miles to the Saddleback Mountain, one 
 of the most singularly shaped eminences in the coun- 
 try. This mountain is isolated, and forms the last link 
 of the great chain which so abruptly terminates here. 
 To the north and east of the city, a broad plain extends 
 as far as the eye can reach, with here and there fields 
 of corn and sugar cane, among wider fields of chappo- 
 
£04 SALTILLO 
 
 ral. About half a mile from, the city on this plain, 
 stands the "Black Fort," or citadel, a prominent fea- 
 ture in its fortifications. I went to this fort, but 
 although I sent my card to the commanding officer, 
 was refused admission.* It covers an area of about 
 three acres. Its walls are of solid masonry, with bas- 
 tions commanding the approaches from the northward. 
 On the eastern side of the city, are several redoubts, 
 as well as along the margin of the arroyo. It was in 
 the taking of these that our army suffered most. The 
 old tannery, where there was a sharp contest, remains 
 just as it was left by our troops. An American gen- 
 tleman familiar with the history of the affair, accompa- 
 nied me in a visit to this quarter, and pointed out the 
 several localities. 
 
 Monterey is the capital of the State of Nueva Leon, 
 and has a population of from fifteen to eighteen thou- 
 sand souls. f It is the only city I visited in Mexico 
 (Hermosillo in Sonora, alone, excepted) which is in- 
 creasing. Here improvements were in progress. Many 
 fine houses were in the course of erection ; others were 
 undergoing repairs, and every thing had the appear- 
 ance of a thriving, active place. The streets are paved 
 and kept clean. Much as has been said of the filth of 
 Mexican towns, I can testify that our New York street 
 inspectors might profit by the example of Monterey. 
 
 * In my various journeys through Mexico, this was the only instance 
 of the kind that I met with. 
 
 f My estimates of the population of this and other towns, are from 
 Mexican authority, and are not always reliable. People are too apt to 
 over estimate the population of their towns, and are reluctant to confess 
 their decline. 
 
TO RINGGOLD BARRACKS. 505 
 
 We visited the church on the plaza, which had been 
 the hospital for our troops. It contains some bad pic- 
 tures, and a large quantity of massive silver plate. Into 
 this plaza the Mexican troops were driven before they 
 capitulated. 
 
 The city has an elevation of 1626 feet above the 
 level of the sea. We had therefore descended, since 
 leaving Encantada, in a distance of seventy -six miles, 
 4478 feet.* With this sudden descent, we noticed a 
 striking change in the temperature. As long as we 
 were on the high tableland, the mornings and evenings 
 were invariably cool, so as to render an overcoat neces- 
 sary. We were all glad to get around fires, whenever 
 there was fuel enough to make one ; and at night, three 
 or four blankets were necessary. Now, on the contra- 
 ry, we experienced the genial warmth of June, with 
 roses in bloom in the open air ; thin clothing felt com- 
 fortable, and the nights were mild. 
 
 December 15th. Resuming our journey this morn- 
 ing, we passed near the citadel, where our escort of 
 ten dragoons, kindly sent by the Governor, joined 
 us. Our route was now across a broad plain unob- 
 structed by hill or mountain. Passed several ranchos, 
 where the people were^engaged in boiling sugar. This 
 region produces fine cane, though its cultivation is not 
 so extensive as would be supposed. Passed, also, the 
 small towns of San Domingo and San Francisco • and 
 three miles beyond stopped at Aqua Fria, a straggling 
 town built upon two sides of a deeD arroyo. 
 
 * Encantada, according to Dr. Wislizenus, is 6104 feet above the 
 
 sea. 
 
506 SALTILLO 
 
 December 16th. The road descended as it did yester- 
 day, and was lined on both sides with dense chapporal. 
 Made a noon halt at a fine stream, the Bio Meter os, just 
 beyond the town of Marin. Passed AquaNegra, where, 
 during the war, General Canales, with a guerilla band, 
 burned a train of United States wagons, and mur- 
 dered the unarmed teamsters. At 3 o'clock, reach- 
 ed Ramos, a small agricultural town, eighteen miles 
 from our last camp, where we stopped. The people 
 collected around us soon after our arrival ; and from 
 them we learned that it was exceedingly sickly in the 
 place ; many of them were suffering from fevers. 
 
 December 17 tli. Our road to-day was very hilly 
 and stony. Chapporal and low trees closely hemmed 
 in the road, rendering the march dull and monotonous. 
 At 4 p. m., we encamped at a rancho near the town of 
 Carrizitos, where we obtained corn and water. 
 
 December lSth. Between Monterey and the Rio 
 Grande, the chapporal is crossed by frequent roads, 
 some running to Reynosa, others connecting villages 
 and ranchos. We were told of this difficulty ; but as 
 the courier who brought my letters from Camargo to 
 Encantada, said he knew all the roads, I was induced 
 to let him act as our guide. To-day, however, he mis- 
 took his way, and led us into an almost impassable 
 wood. We could not turn around, and were compel- 
 led to cut our way for some distance before we struck 
 the road again. Fortunately we extricated ourselves 
 without accident, after the delay of an hour or two. 
 
 Soon after, we met with an accident that might 
 have proved more serious. This was the loss of one of 
 the iron boxes to a wheel hub. The train was stopped 
 
TO RINGGOLD BARRACKS. 507 
 
 and men sent in search of it, who found it four miles 
 back. 
 
 Reached Gerralvo at noon. This is a better look- 
 ing town than any passed since leaving Monterey. 
 Many of its houses are of stone, and built with some 
 taste. Pushing forward, we encamped at Puntiagudo, 
 about twenty-four miles from our last camp. This is a 
 small village, which still exhibits the effects of the late 
 war in the bare walls of its ruined houses. A small 
 stream passes here, one of the tributaries of the Alcan- 
 tra. 
 
 December 19th. Our road continued over low hills 
 with deep and narrow arroyos at the bottom, one of 
 which cost us a wheel and a tongue. An occasional 
 ravine to pass with abrupt banks, is bad enough ; but 
 to-day the whole country seemed to be cut up with 
 them, requiring the utmost care to prevent accidents. 
 After thirty miles of continuous chapporal and a bad 
 road, we reached the town of Mier, on the Rio Grande 
 at 8 o'clock, though it was midnight before we could 
 get corn for our animals, and reduce our camp to quiet- 
 ness. 
 
 Mier is an old town on the banks of the Alcantra, 
 a small stream which empties into the Rio Grande three 
 or four miles beyond, and appears, like most other 
 Mexican towns, to be on the decline. In 1828 its 
 population was two thousand eight hundred and twen- 
 ty-one. It is now much less. Many of its houses are 
 of stone, and well built. It has no lands capable of 
 irrigation; the people, consequently, are obliged to 
 depend upon other occupations than agriculture for 
 support ; and this, doubtless, is the reason of their indus- 
 
508 SALTILLO 
 
 trious character. Mier is celebrated for its fine manu- 
 factures of serajpes and blankets ; and there was scarce- 
 ly a house in which we did not see the women occu- 
 pied in weaving them. These serapes, which are worn 
 by all classes, are made of wool, ornamented with a 
 variety of figures and of various colors. They bring from 
 six to one hundred dollars each, according to their 
 quality and ornaments. 
 
 This town fills an important place in the annals of 
 the Texan revolution, on account of its capture by the 
 Texans, under the command of Colonel Fisher, their 
 surrender afterwards to the Mexicans, and their subse- 
 quent history.* 
 
 Proceeding up the Rio Grande above Mier, the 
 character of the country changes for the better, the 
 bottoms becoming more fertile. The shores are for the 
 greater part, a narrow strip of sand or gravel, sur- 
 mounted by river bluffs of various heights. The willow, 
 and occasionally the white cypress, occur near the river, 
 while further back the mezquit, ebony, etc., abound. 
 
 * This party, which, consisted of 261 men, crossed the Rio Grande, 
 where they encountered a Mexican force of 2340 men, with whom they 
 had a severe battle, and took possession of Mier. In this contest, accord- 
 ing to the statement of General Green, an officer at the time, the Texan 
 loss was, ten killed and twenty-three wounded — that of the Mexicans, 
 between seven and eight hundred killed and wounded. The Texans 
 were afterwards induced to surrender to General Mejia, on certain 
 pledges being given them by General Ampudia. They were placed 
 under a guard of three hundred men, and marched off to the City of 
 Mexico. After they had passed Saltillo and were crossing the desert to 
 San Luis Potosi, they rose on their Mexican guard at a place called Sa- 
 lado, overpowered them, and made their escape. Had they kept toge- 
 ther and followed the roads, they would have found water and food, and 
 
TO RINGGOLD BARRACKS. 509 
 
 In October, 1846, a successful attempt was made to 
 ascend the Rio Grande in the United States steamer Ma- 
 jor Brown, by order of General Patterson, with a view 
 to ascertain whether or not it were possible to open a 
 communication between Camargo and the Presidio del 
 Norte. This vessel drew but two feet of water. She 
 experienced few obstacles in reaching the river Salado, 
 nearly a hundred miles by water above Mier. Above 
 this, there was a series of continued shoals, rocks, and 
 rapids, among which the boat repeatedly grounded. 
 She at length reached Laredo, a town about six hun- 
 dred miles by water from the mouth of the river. Up 
 to this point it was believed that, with the expendi- 
 ture of one hundred thousand dollars, in removing ob- 
 structions, the river might be made navigable for boats 
 drawing four feet of water.* 
 
 December 20th. The bad road of yesterday gave 
 us considerable patching up to do, and caused several 
 hours detention. The good people of the town availed. 
 themselves of this delay, and soon thronged the camp, 
 
 would doubtless have gained the Texan frontier. They, however, scat- 
 tered and sought the mountains, where they suffered extremely for the 
 want of water and food. The whole population was roused in pursuit 
 of them ; the small parties were picked up, and the main body reduced 
 by starvation, finally surrendered. They were again marched back to 
 Salado, where, by order of General Santa Ana, they were decimated. 
 Out of 176 prisoners, 17 were shot, the remainder were sent to the 
 city of Mexico. Of these, 35 died from suffering and starvation. Seven 
 were released through the intercession of the American Minister, and 
 four through the intercession of the British minister, &c. — Green's His- 
 tory of the Texan Mier Expedition. 
 
 * " Tilden's Notes on the Upper Rio Grande," of an exploration 
 made by order of Major General Patterson. 
 
510 SALTILLO 
 
 each bearing on his or her arm a serape for sale ; and 
 I doubt whether, since the occupation of the country 
 by the Americans, they have found so good a market 
 for their productions. Many gentlemen of the party 
 had been desirous to take home with them one of these 
 articles ; and the opportunity now presented of buy- 
 ing them fresh from the loom, and at prices much 
 lower than we had seen them in the shops of Monterey 
 and Saltillo, induced many to secure specimens. 
 
 In walking round the camp, my attention was at- 
 tracted to some large oyster shells, which protruded 
 above the clay bank ; and, on extending my examina- 
 tion about seventy yards to the south, to a deep arroyo, 
 I noticed thick beds of shells of the genus Ostrea, in 
 its sides and on its bottom. According to Dr. Til- 
 den, these beds extend up to near Loredo ; and Dr. 
 Wislizenus found them two miles below Mier on the 
 immediate banks of the river. Our camp was near 
 the town, and the surface of the clay bank where we 
 found them, was at least fifty feet above the river. 
 
 We now set out for Camargo, twenty-five miles dis- 
 tant, keeping the western bank of the river, through a 
 forest of chapporal. About several miles distant on 
 the opposite bank, we saw the town of Roma, and soon 
 after were cheered with the sight of a small steamboat, 
 which occasionally works its way as far as this. It is 
 evident that the navigation is attended with difficulties, 
 as we saw her more than once ^.st on sandbars, which 
 here begin to obstruct the navigation. 
 
 Finding that the train would not reach Camargo 
 before dark, and being anxious to get to Ringgold 
 Barracks as soon as possible, I set off in advance, ac- 
 
TO RINGGOLD BARRACKS. 511 
 
 companied by Mr. Radziminski and our guide. On 
 reaching the river San Juan, a large stream which en- 
 ters the Rio Grande, three miles from Camargo, and on 
 which that town stands, we found a body of three or 
 four hundred Mexican troops, cavalry and infantry, 
 waiting to cross. This stream is quite deep, and is 
 crossed by a ferry boat attached to a rope extend- 
 ing from one bank to the other. As the boat would 
 hold but a few horses, it was evident that, if I waited 
 for the whole to cross, I should not get over for hours. 
 I sent my guide (who it appeared was a soldier belong- 
 ing to the command at Camargo), with my compli- 
 ments to the commanding officer, Colonel Cruz, to per- 
 mit me to cross at once. This gentleman very polite- 
 ly acceded to my request, and directed the boat to 
 take, over me and my party immediately. On reach- 
 ing the opposite side, I rode to the quarters of Colonel 
 Cruz, to pay my respects to him, and request permis- 
 sion of him to allow the train of the Boundary Com- 
 mission to pass unmolested. He assured me that every 
 facility should be afforded the train to cross the San 
 Juan, and thence to the American line. There was some 
 danger here ; for this officer was in arms against the 
 Mexican government ; and but for the character of my 
 party, it would not have been suffered to pass so quietly. 
 We had had, too, a narrow escape from the rebel chief 
 Caravajal, who, with a band of some two hundred des- 
 perate characters, had been devastating the frontier. 
 We had heard of them at various places after leaving 
 Monterey ; and at one village, we learnt that they had 
 passed but the day before. 
 
 The population of Camargo is about the same as 
 
512 SALTILLO TO RINGGOLD BARRACKS. 
 
 that of Mier. Its houses are built of stone or adobe. 
 There is more arable land here, and the same manufac- 
 tures are carried on as at Mier. Before the Indian wars 
 and the wars of Texas, there were numerous ranchos on 
 both sides of the Rio Grande. Their occupants were 
 chiefly employed in raising of cattle, of which at one 
 time, they possessed not less than forty thousand head. 
 These establishments have now been destroyed, or 
 abandoned. During the late war, the American army 
 had a large depot at this place. The steamboat which 
 navigate the Rio Grande, finds no difficulty in coming 
 up as far as Camargo. At high water, boats drawing 
 five feet, ascend it with safety. 
 
 A ride of three miles, after leaving Camargo, 
 brought us to the Rio Grande, which we crossed in a 
 scow. Its width here is from one hundred and twenty- 
 five to one hundred and fifty yards, with steep banks. 
 On the American side is a considerable settlement, 
 known as Davis' rancho ; and about half a mile below 
 is the military post, known as Ringgold Barracks. 
 Hither I drove at once, and was met by Major Paul, 
 the commanding officer, and the members of the Com- 
 mission, who with Major Emory, the United States 
 Surveyor, had been awaiting my arrival. 
 
 December 21st. Our train reached the opposite 
 banks of the San Juan last evening, and was occupied 
 the whole of to-day in getting across the two rivers, 
 when the party encamped near the barracks. 
 
RINGGOLD BARRACKS TO CORPUS CHRISTI. 513 
 
 CHAPTER XLIY. 
 
 RINGGOLD BARRACKS TO CORPUS CHRISTI. 
 
 Eio Grande surveying parties — State of the Survey — Despatches from 
 Washington — Proviso affixed by Congress to the appropriation for the 
 Commission — Letter of the Hon. Alex. II. H. Stuart, Secretary of the 
 Interior — Money withheld — Compelled to disband the Commission and 
 return home — Unfortunate situation of the party — Send the train 
 and government property to San Antonio — Leave for the coast — The 
 grassy prairies of Texas — Sal Colorado — Wells at Santa Teresa — 
 Ravages of the Comanches — Night alarm from mustangs — Abundance 
 of deer and antelope — Los Olmos — Immense drove of mustangs — 
 Exciting race over the prairie — Horse lost — The prairie on fire — Rio 
 San .Francisco — Agua Dulce — Arrival at Corpus Christi. 
 
 December 22& At Ringgold Barracks. When I left 
 El Paso, it was for the purpose of joining Major Emory 
 at this place, in order to complete the survey of the 
 Rio Grande. I now learned from this officer that the 
 survey had been carried as far down the river as 
 Loredo, with the exception of a small space still to be 
 covered between the great Chizo Canon and the Rio 
 San Pedro, on which two parties were then operating. 
 It was believed that the small portion extending from 
 Loredo to the mouth of the river might be finished in 
 three or four months. The season was the most favor- 
 able for engineering operations, and the parties were 
 
 vol. ii. — 33 
 
514 EINGGOLD BARRACKS 
 
 all on the spot with their instruments, camp-equipage, 
 wagons, animals, provisions, etc. In fact every thing 
 required to ensure the speedy completion of the work 
 was at hand, except boats, which would be necessary 
 when near the Gulf. But all my plans were frustrated 
 by the despatches from Washington. 
 
 The despatch of' the 15th October, 1852, received 
 by me at Encantada, advised me that to the appropria- 
 tion of one hundred and twenty thousand dollars made 
 by Congress for defraying the expenses of the Boundary 
 Commission, a proviso was added that it should not be 
 used "until it should be made satisfactorily to appear 
 to the President of the United States that the southern 
 boundary of New Mexico is not established by the 
 •Commissioner and the Surveyor of the United States fur- 
 ther north of the town called Paso than the same is laid 
 down in DisturneH's map, which is added to the treaty." 
 
 In communicating to me this act of Congress, the 
 Secretary of the Interior says, that the President and 
 himself " have been forced to the conclusion that, in 
 view of this restriction, the money cannot legally be 
 drawn from the treasury." The Honorable Secretary 
 expressed a strong desire that the work shall go on if 
 I already have the means of maintaining the parties 
 long enough to complete the survey of the river; 
 but if otherwise, the Commission must retire from the 
 field.* 
 
 * Here folllows the despatch itself: 
 
 Department of the Interior, 
 Washington, Oct. 15, 1852. 
 
 Sir : — In the Deficiency Bill of the last session, which was approved 
 '21st July, Congress appropriated for the Mexican Boundary Survey the 
 
TO CORPUS CHRISTL 515 
 
 The course I had to pursue was plain. Congress 
 nad said that if the southern boundary of New Mexico 
 had been established further north of the town of El 
 Paso than it is laid down in Disturnell's map, the 
 money appropriated to carry on the survey could not 
 be used. This was a new interpretation of the treaty, 
 and one not required either by my instructions or by the 
 words of the treaty itself. The boundary line was 
 
 sum of eighty thousand dollars. This was immediately absorbed by the 
 drafts and liabilities which were then outstanding, and the additional 
 sum of twenty-five thousand dollars for like demands was obtained by 
 the act approved 31st August, which has also been nearly exhausted, 
 and other debts still remain unpaid. In this latter the sum of one hun- 
 dred and twenty thousand dollars was appropriated for the present fiscal 
 year, with a proviso that it should not be used " until it shall be made 
 satisfactorily to appear to the President of the United States that the 
 southern boundary of New Mexico is not established by the Commis- 
 sioner and Surveyor of the United States further north of the town 
 called ' Paso ' than the same is laid down in Disturnell's map, which is 
 added to the treaty." Inclosed I send you a printed copy of my report 
 to the President in regard to this proviso, and of his indorsement 
 thereon. You will perceive that the President and myself have been 
 forced to the conclusion that, in view of this restriction, the money can- 
 not legally be drawn from the treasury. It will not be proper, therefore, 
 for you to make any further drafts upon the department. * * * 
 No exception has been, or could possibly be, taken to the river portion 
 of the boundary ; and it is much to be regretted that the department 
 has not authority to use the appropriation for that portion of the survey. 
 * * * You may, possibly, already have the means of maintaining 
 your respective parties long enough to complete the survey of the river, 
 or until you shall have been advised of further action by Congress on 
 the subject. The withdrawal of the Commission is not imperatively 
 called for by the action of Congress, except in so far as the withholding 
 of funds may render it necessary. It would be very desirable to avoid 
 it, if possible ; as Congress will again be in session in the course of about 
 six weeks, and possibly as soon as you will receive this communication. 
 
516 RINGGOLD BARRACKS 
 
 established at 32° 22' north latitude, where it stands 
 on the treaty map. El Paso is placed on that map 
 about seven minutes of latitude south of the boundary ; 
 but when this town is removed to its true position at 
 31° 45', the distance between the town and the boun- 
 dary is of course increased to the extent of the error 
 of the map. 
 
 I had not money sufficient to continue the work, or 
 
 Such a movement would also be attended with much delay in the com- 
 pletion of the survey, and greatly increased expenses to the United 
 States and to the government of Mexico, besides embarrassment and 
 hardship to the employes of the Commission, whose sole dependence 
 is upon their individual labors. It would likewise be a cause of further 
 dissatisfaction on the part of the Mexican government. It will not be 
 proper for you in any event to continue operations on the disputed por- 
 tion of the boundary (the southern and western limits of New Mexico), 
 nor to make any further drafts upon the department ; and if you have not 
 the means already acquired in the manner indicated for completing the 
 survey of the Rio Grande, you will of course cease operations altogether, 
 and return to the United States with your surveying parties. But not 
 knowing precisely your situation in these respects, your return or con- 
 tinuation in the field must, with these views of the department before 
 
 you, be left to your own sound discretion. 
 
 ****** 
 
 In the event of your being obliged to return from the field, you will 
 make the best possible disposition of the government property in the 
 service of the Commission. * * * j} u t } n a ]j these matters you 
 will be governed by considerations of economy to the United States, 
 and convenience and expedition in the future resumption of the work. 
 I am, Sir, very respectfully, 
 
 Your obedient servant, 
 
 ALEXANDER H. H. STUART, 
 
 Secretary. 
 John R. Bartlett, Esq., 
 JJ. S. Commissioner, 
 
 Mexican Boundary Survey. 
 
TO CORPUS CHRISTI. 517 
 
 even to defray the expenses of the officers and men to 
 their homes. The money was tendered to me on my 
 drafts by several houses to the amount of seventy-five 
 thousand dollars, if I decided to go on with the sur- 
 vey ; but the instructions sent me on this point were 
 clear, and however desirous I was to complete the 
 work, the will of my government must be obeyed, no 
 matter at how great a sacrifice. The Honorable Se- 
 cretary directed me, if I already had the means, to con- 
 tinue operations on the Rio Grande, if not, to cease 
 altogether and return home. The intention of Con- 
 gress was doubtless to break up the survey, and my 
 duty was to submit. 
 
 The next step was to disband the Commission as 
 soon as possible, to get the officers and men to their 
 homes, and to place the valuable property of the go- 
 vernment where it could be taken care of at the least 
 expense, and where it would be convenient, should 
 Congress, on further reflection, remove the proviso and 
 order the survey to be resumed. 
 
 To reach Washington or New York from this dis- 
 tant place would cost a considerable sum ; and I found 
 my means quite insufficient to defray the expenses of 
 more than one half of those whom the government 
 was bound to transport back to the places from which 
 they came. Here was a sad dilemma for a large body 
 of men to be placed in by an act of Congress, without 
 any fault on their part — men who had been most ardu- 
 ously engaged on a toilsome and dangerous service for 
 two years and a half, risking life and health in the 
 faithful performance of their duties. I would have 
 been justified in selling off at once, at public auction, 
 
518 RINGGOLD BARRACKS 
 
 all the government property, and appropriating the 
 proceeds to the pay of the men, and to enabling the 
 officers to reach their homes. Such a course would 
 have been adopted by most officers placed in my posi- 
 tion ; but I was willing to submit to inconveniences 
 if the laboring men could be relieved. 
 
 I determined, therefore, to divide the money in my 
 possession among the officers, as far as it would go, to 
 meet the expense of reaching their homes. It was 
 enough for about one half. I then directed the quar- 
 ter-master and commissary, Mr. George Thurber, to 
 take the entire train of animals and wagons (including 
 those used by Major Emory and his parties), together 
 with all the public property, except the instruments, 
 and proceed with the same to San Antonio. That 
 place was a convenient point from which the survey 
 could again be resumed whenever it would be the 
 pleasure of Congress to order it ; and it was a place 
 where the animals could be kept at the least expense. 
 I also desired Mr. Thurber to reserve twelve of the 
 best wagons, one hundred mules, and a portion of the 
 equipments and camp equipage, and to sell the re- 
 mainder at public auction, and apply the proceeds to 
 the payment of the men. And I further directed him to 
 make arrangements with some mercantile house in San 
 Antonio to advance the sum necessary to pay off the 
 laboring men and teamsters, as well as to enable the 
 remaining officers to return to their homes, and to 
 draw on me at Washington for the same.* The instru- 
 
 '§> 
 
 * The train continued to Corpus Christi ; after which Mr. Thur- 
 ber proceeded to San Antonio, as directed. He there raised the 
 
TO CORPUS CHRISTL 519 
 
 merits, both astronomical and surveying, were in 
 charge of the principal surveyor, Major W. H. Emory. 
 Having made these arrangements, we prepared to con- 
 tinue our journey to the coast. A steamer ran to Ma- 
 tamoras ; but as there was no communication between 
 that place and IScsv Orleans, I thought it the surer 
 way to proceed by land to Corpus Ghristi, on the Gulf 
 of Mexico, about one hundred and fifty miles distant, 
 and thence by land or water to Indianola, where a 
 line of steamers connected with New Orleans. 
 
 December- 27th. Left Ringgold Barracks at one, p. m., 
 with a portion of the train, accompanied by Major 
 Emory with his officers and several wagons. Mr. 
 Thurber remained, intending to follow the next day 
 with the rest of the train. The country for five or six 
 miles is undulating, with low hills and a gentle ascent 
 from, the river until the plain is reached. For this dis- 
 tance it is covered with the same dense chapporal as 
 on the opposite side of the river, and is equally desti- 
 tute of grass. Passing this belt, a higher level is 
 reached, where there is better soil. Here grass be- 
 gins to appear, with larger shrubbery ; the mezquit 
 reaching a height of from fifteen to twenty feet, and | 
 
 necessary funds, through the kindness of Messrs. Vance & Brother, 
 merchants at that place ; which enabled him to discharge and pay off all 
 the teamsters, laboring men, and mechanics, some sixty or seventy in 
 number, as well as to furnish the means to the rest of the officers of 
 returning to their homes. He then remained with three or four men, 
 barely sufficient to take care of the hundred animals he had reserved 
 and the other property, until the following June, when he was released 
 by the parties sent out to resume the work. The interruption of 
 the survey delayed its completion about eight months, at an additional 
 expense of fifty thousand dollars. 
 
520 RINGGOLD BARRACKS 
 
 forming thick woods. In passing a gully where 
 the road was much washed away, the tongue of one 
 of the wagons was broken and had to be repaired with 
 ropes. Encamped after dark on the open plain, amid 
 an abundance of grass. 
 
 December 28th. The prairie continued grassy, in- 
 terspersed with the prickly pear and low mezquit, 
 opening occasionally for a few miles without shrubbery. 
 The road became quite sandy and heavy for the ani- 
 mals. In the afternoon, stopped at Sal Colorado, a 
 miserable cattle rancho with a well, where we stopped 
 to water our animals. This place is called forty miles 
 from Ringgold, which is a large estimate. There are 
 pens and corrals here, used for catching and securing 
 mustangs, in which this portion of Texas abounds. 
 Continued our journey to Santa Teresa, five miles fur- 
 ther, where we encamped. Here was a deserted ran- 
 cho in ruins, with three wells near. It had been used, 
 like that at Sal Colorado, for ensnaring wild horses. 
 Last year the Comanches attacked it, murdered the 
 occupants, burned the houses, and took away all the 
 cattle, mules, and horses. It has not since been occu- 
 pied. In two of the wells, which were about fifteen 
 feet deep, the water was brackish ; but from the third 
 we procured good water with some difficulty. 
 
 December 29th. The mustangs came around our 
 camp in great numbers last night. They so alarmed 
 the mules that, fearing a general stampede, the guard 
 was obliged to fire upon them, which drove them off. 
 The road to-day was heavy ; the country an open roll- 
 ing prairie, covered with luxuriant grass, and dotted 
 with clusters of mezquit and oak. Now and then would 
 
TO CORPUS CHRISTI. 521 
 
 appear a long line or belt of these trees, extending a 
 mile or more. At noon, stopped in a grove of mez- 
 quit, and sent our animals to a lagoon half a mile to 
 our left for water. After letting them graze an 
 hour, we resumed our march. We reached a pond four 
 miles further, and a little beyond a second and larger 
 one. This water was covered with wild ducks and 
 geese ; but they took the alarm at the first appearance 
 of the train, and were off before we could get a shot 
 at them. Keeping on a few miles, we encamped on 
 the open prairie. Large numbers of deer, antelope, 
 and wild horses were seen during the day; but the 
 latter kept at a respectful distance. Two deer were 
 killed. 
 
 December 30th. Off by break of day. The rolling 
 prairie continued without trees or shrubbery, save 
 here and there a little mot or group. As we approach- 
 ed Loma Blanca (White Hill), some low hills appeared, 
 whose sides showed banks of white sand. Herds of 
 mustangs, going at full speed, crossed and recrossed 
 the broad prairie, presenting a beautiful spectacle as 
 they stretched for a mile or more, with their long bushy 
 tails streaming in the wind. They did not venture 
 within a quarter of a mile of us. Deer and antelope 
 were also seen in great numbers bounding over the 
 broad plain or feeding in herds. They too were shy, 
 and had evidently come in contact with man before. 
 As there was neither tree nor bush to be seen, and no 
 cover of any sort, all our efforts to get within rifle-shot 
 were unavailing. 
 
 Near Loma Blanca is the bed of a laguna, which 
 extends for more than a mile on both sides of the road. 
 
522 RINGGOLD BARRACKS 
 
 There was every indication that it had recently been 
 filled with water ; but we sought for some in vain. 
 Deeply worn paths made by the mustangs were seen 
 in every direction, showing that it was a place of re- 
 sort for these animals. After travelling eight hours 
 we reached a chain of lagunas called Los Olmos, which 
 crossed our path. Having travelled more than twenty 
 miles over a sandy road, and our animals showing 
 signs of great fatigue, we encamped. The water was 
 sweet and the grass abundant. 
 
 December 31st. A portion of our journey yesterday 
 was over the prairie, where there was no trace of a 
 road. To-day continued the same ; yet the man who 
 pretended to guide us seemed familiarly acquainted 
 with it. A few hours after leaving, the prairie near 
 the horizon seemed to be moving, with long undu- 
 lations, like the waves of the ocean. Unable to account 
 for this singular appearance, I looked with my tele- 
 scope, when, to my surprise, I discovered the whole 
 prairie towards the horizon alive with mustangs. Soon 
 after they could be seen coming towards the train. 
 
 Major Emory at this time was in advance of me 
 about half a mile with his portion of the wagons. We 
 saw the long line of mustangs approach him, and soon 
 after pass before, the whole herd following after, and 
 extending as far as the eye could reach across the 
 prairie. The mules became restive, and we could see 
 the teamsters hurrying forward the wagons for protec- 
 tion behind each other. On went the great stream, 
 and the next moment one of the mule teams in ad- 
 vance sprang from the train and dashed off at full 
 speed after and among the wild horses. The teamster 
 
TO CORPUS CHRISTI. 523 
 
 in vain tried to restrain them. It was all to no pur- 
 pose. Away they went, John Gilpin like, the wagon 
 with six mules, followed by all the loose animals that 
 were driven with the train, which had also partaken 
 of the stampede. The herdsmen, in order to check the 
 runaways, left the train and went in pursuit, making 
 altogether the most exciting spectacle we had yet wit- 
 nessed. The chase continued for a mile ; for the 
 mules in the wagon had become perfectly frantic with 
 fear, surrounded as they were by equally frightened 
 mustangs, and all bounded over the prairie at their 
 utmost speed. Seeing the danger, our men put on 
 the lash, and we hurried forward to render such aid as 
 lay in our power. The men of the other party fired at 
 the herd, which had the effect of breaking the line, 
 and turning it in another direction. 
 
 The frightened herd made directly for us, in the 
 same Ions; line, the termination of which we could 
 not see, as it lost itself far in the distance. I now 
 became alarmed, fearing a general stampede among 
 our mules; for nothing can restrain these timid crea- 
 tures when frightened. If they cannot take their 
 wagon with them, they become so frantic that they 
 will tear themselves from their harness and flee away. 
 Our first precaution was to close up the wagons, so 
 that only those in the first one would see the mustangs. 
 The mules of the second were placed alongside of the 
 foremost wagon, the next by the side of the second, 
 and so on to the last, each wagon thus protecting the 
 team that followed it. We now locked the wheels of 
 all, and men stood by the leaders to restrain and quiet 
 them. As I had no inclination to be carried off against 
 
524 RINGGOLD BARRACKS 
 
 my will among a herd of frantic wild horses after the 
 fashion of Mazeppa, I dismounted and hitched my 
 mule to a wagon, and with several others ran with my 
 fire-arms to meet the advancing steeds, which were 
 now nearly upon us, led off by a fearless stallion. We 
 discharged our arms at them as they approached, and 
 fortunately with good effect. The leader was turned, 
 and the avalanche of wild animals swept by us like a 
 tornado, much to our relief. We held in for a few 
 minutes until the herd had passed, when we unlocked 
 our wheels and hastened forward to the first of the 
 train, which had halted. 
 
 By the time we reached it, the runaway wagon 
 and mules, with those who had been in pursuit, were 
 just coming up after a most exciting chase. Fortu- 
 nately no one was injured, and our animals were all 
 captured and brought back, except one, and that one 
 of the most valuable horses belonging to the party. 
 This animal was ridden by the wagon-master, and 
 when in full pursuit of the runaways, he stepped into 
 one of the burrowing places which abound on the 
 prairies, fell, and threw his rider over his head. Thus 
 freed from restraint, he joined his wild brethren and 
 disappeared on the prairie, with his saddle, bridle, and 
 trappings. 
 
 As we continued our journey other herds of mus- 
 tangs were seen coming from the east, but none ap- 
 proached us. Large numbers of deer and antelope 
 were also perceived as we jogged along. In the after- 
 noon we crossed a deep ravine, the dry bed of the 
 Escondida, which bore the traces of recent water ; and 
 just beyond this the great prairie was on fire. 
 
TO CORPUS CHRISTI. 525 
 
 We had for hours noticed the huge volumes of 
 smoke as they ascended from the plain, and attributed 
 the flight of animals towards us, which we had seen 
 during the day, to this fire. It stretched for miles in 
 both directions, and was sweeping directly towards us. 
 Whenever it reached a patch of high grass, volumes 
 of dense smoke rose up, while the vivid flames leaped 
 with greater rapidity over the plain. We rode up 
 and down for some distance, but could find no open- 
 ing through. At length a place was seen where the 
 fire raged with less fury. Here the horsemen led the 
 way ; whereupon the teamsters put the whips to their 
 animals, and uttering a loud whoop dashed through 
 the flames. 
 
 A short distance beyond we passed another chain 
 of lagunas, or small ponds, known as Santa Gertrude. 
 The water was good here ; but finding that we could 
 make a few more miles, I hurried forward. Five miles 
 further, over an excellent road, brought us to San 
 Francisco River, which unfortunately had no water 
 in it. 
 
 The prairie had been more level to-day, and, ex- 
 cept where burned, was covered with excellent grass. 
 The bed and banks of the San Francisco were lined 
 with large trees overhung with moss. We made 
 thirty miles to-day, for about half of which distance 
 the road was excellent. 
 
 January 1st, 1853. At an early hour breakfast was 
 despatched ; and the tents were struck, and the party 
 was in motion at the break of day. The prairie was 
 now a dead level, the grass short, and the road very 
 good. Not a bush or a tree was to be seen ; yet there 
 
526 RINGGOLD BARRACKS 
 
 was no lack of prominent objects ; for thousands of 
 deer and antelope were scattered over it. Never 
 before had we seen such numbers. Droves of mus- 
 tangs also appeared. The deer and antelope were 
 usually grazing in herds of from ten to fifty ; and as 
 we approached they, leisurely trotted off to a short dis- 
 tance, and again stopped. We shot none ; for as I was 
 desirous to reach Corpus Christi before night, we were 
 pushing forward on the run, and could not be delayed 
 for the sake of game, tempting as it was. Among the 
 antelope I noticed several of a pure white. 
 
 Ten miles brought us to Agua Dulce (Sweet 
 Water), where there were some filthy pools of water 
 and several ranchos ; and twelve miles further to the 
 Oso, a small pond, or rather mud-hole, the water in 
 which was so bad that the animals would not drink it. 
 The road being good and the weather cool, we again 
 dashed off on a run, when an additional nine miles 
 gladdened our sight with the blue waters of the Gulf of 
 Mexico, which stretched out before us in a long line, 
 bounding the horizon for many miles. This was a de- 
 lightful spectacle to us after an absence of two years 
 and a half, and especially as it was the termination of a 
 land journey of nearly two thousand three hundred 
 miles. At three o'clock, p. m., we reached Coiyus 
 Christi, and drove to the excellent hotel of Mr. Noes- 
 ler. Here we met Captains Gibbs and Rhett, Dr. Jar- 
 vis, and other officers of the United States army, from 
 whom we were gratified »with late news from home. 
 
 My first inquiry was for the means of reaching 
 New Orleans ; and finding there was no steamer run- 
 ning, and no means of reaching there except by tak- 
 
TO CORPUS CHRISTI. 52^ 
 
 ing an open boat through the lagunas to Indianola, a 
 distance of about one hundred and forty miles, or 
 making a land journey around the shore to the same 
 place, I chose the former. I had had quite enough of 
 land journeys for the present ; and hearing there was 
 a small boat at the wharf, I lost no time in chartering 
 her to transport me and such others as chose to ac- 
 company me. She could stow away four persons be- 
 neath a piece of deck over the bow, by crawling in 
 on the hands and feet ; but there was not sufficient 
 height to sit up. However, it was a change, and I 
 determined to try it. The Captain agreed to leave in 
 the morning. 
 
528 CORPUS CHRISTI 
 
 CHAPTER XLV. 
 
 CORPUS CHRISTI TO WASHINGTON. 
 
 Corpus Christi— Its fine position — Geographical features of the country — 
 Nueces Bay and River — A norther — Its effects on the fish in the lagu- 
 nas — Leave Corpus Christi in an open boat — Shallow bays and lagunas 
 of the Gulf — Vast numbers of water-fowl — Bays of Aransas and Espiri- 
 tu Santo — Reach Decrow's Point — Matagorda Bay and its commerce — 
 Embark for New Orleans — Galveston — Arrival at New Orleans — Voy- 
 age up the Mississippi, and by way of Louisville, Cincinnati, Cleveland, 
 Buffalo, and Albany to Providence — Arrival at home — Proceed to 
 "Washington. 
 
 The town of Corpus Christi is more pleasantly situated 
 than any place I had yet seen on the Gulf of Mexico, 
 having the advantage of a bluff from eighty to one 
 hundred feet high above the shores of the Gulf. The 
 business portion of the town stands chiefly on the 
 beach below ; but the bluff is now being covered with 
 dwelling houses, and is by far the most pleasant situa- 
 tion. Like other places on the northern shores of the 
 Gulf, it is separated from the sea by a broad bay. 
 Here there is plenty of water ; but on the bar which 
 connects it with the Gulf there is only about six feet. 
 
 Corpus Christi Bay is about forty miles from north to 
 south, and twenty from east to west. Connected with 
 
TO WASHINGTON. 529 
 
 it, and making far up into the land, is Nueces Bay, 
 about ten miles long and five wide, which receives at 
 its head the Nueces River. This river has its rise in 
 the Guadalupe Mountains about three hundred miles 
 distant The stream, which is deep, narrow, and rapid, 
 with very steep banks, is navigable for small boats, 
 about forty miles from its mouth ; and with some im- 
 provement the navigation might be extended to the 
 point of confluence with the Rio Frio, its principal 
 tributary. The latter has a course of about one hun- 
 dred and fifty miles, and has for its tributaries the San 
 Miguel, Atascoco, La Parida, and Tordillo rivers. The 
 San Miguel is about one hundred and twenty miles in 
 length, and runs nearly parallel with the Rio Frio. The 
 Laguna, the Leona, the Arroyo Saco, and the Arroyo 
 de Uvalde, are also branches of this stream— the last 
 named " being formed of nearly a hundred springs of 
 crystal water, that gush from the munificent soil of the 
 valley, which is headed by a singularly difficult defile, 
 named the Canon de Uvalde." West of Corpus Christi 
 Bay, several small streams enter the Laguna del Madre, 
 among them the AguaDulce, Las Pintas, San Fernando, 
 Santa Gertrude, Los Olmos, and Escondida. Most of 
 these we passed in crossing from the Rio Grande ; but 
 the water in them was so low that we hardly recog- 
 nised them as running streams, and some were entirely 
 dry. 
 
 The land near Corpus Christi is very fertile. Groups 
 and belts of timber are found near the coast ; but after 
 leaving this, a vast undulating prairie extends from the 
 Nueces to within three or four miles of the Rio Grande. 
 This plain is covered with the richest grass, and abounds 
 
 vol. ii. — 34 
 
530 CORPUS CHRISTI 
 
 in mustangs, deer, antelope, and large herds of beef- 
 cattle. 
 
 Opposite Corpus Christi Bay, separating it from 
 the Gulf, is Mustang Island, about thirty-five miles 
 long and from two to four in width. Further south, 
 another long and narrow sound opens, called the La- 
 guna del Madre, about ninety miles in length and from 
 three to six in width ; an island about the same length, 
 and from two to four miles in width, separates it from 
 the Gulf. This laguna is so shallow as to be unavail- 
 able for navigation, even for vessels of light draft. 
 
 The position of Corpus Christi renders it very 
 healthy ; and when many other places on the coast suf- 
 fer from fevers, this, owing to its elevation, is exempt. 
 It is at present the Head Quarters of the Military Di- 
 vision in Texas ; and from the facility of entering the 
 harbor, it is destined to be one of the most important 
 places on the coast. 
 
 January 2d. There was a dead calm to-day, which 
 prevented us from leaving. 
 
 January 3c?. A violent norther arose during the 
 snight, and we had it piercing cold to-day. When in 
 ;the house, we were seated by fires, and when outside 
 lihe door, wrapped in our overcoats. Yet in spite of 
 all our efforts, it seemed almost impossible to keep 
 warm, so penetrating are these winds to systems which 
 have become relaxed. 
 
 When these winds blow so violently, they drive 
 :the water from the shallow lagunas into the Gulf, and 
 increase the difficulty of navigating them. Many of 
 the bars are then nearly dry. There is one in particu- 
 lar, across the mouth of the Nueces Bay, which de- 
 
TO WASHINGTON. 531 
 
 serves to be noticed. When the tide comes into this 
 bay, as well as in all others, it is resorted to by large 
 numbers of fish from the Gulf, to feed. The water may 
 then be from five to ten feet deep, and is of the same 
 temperature as that of the Gulf. But after a norther 
 has blown for twelve or twenty-four hours, its tempera- 
 ture is so much reduced, that the fish become chilled, 
 and not having strength enough to make their way 
 over the bar, now more shallow than ever, they often 
 lie there in heaps. At these times the people go to 
 the bar with their wagons, and with a spear or fork 
 pick up the finest fish, weighing from ten to a hundred 
 pounds, and thus carry away loads. Many were 
 brought in to-day, and they proved a great luxury to 
 us.* 
 
 To-day, again, it was impossible to sail, for we 
 
 * In the remarkable journey of Alvar Nuiies Cabeca de Vaca from 
 Florida to Cinaloa, on the Pacific coast, between the years 1527 and 
 1535, he remained for eight months among a tribe of Indians on the 
 Gulf of Mexico, whom he calls the Avavares. " They were all," he says, 
 " ignorant of time, either by the sun or moon, nor do they reckon by 
 the month or year ; but they better know and understand the differences 
 of the seasons, when the fruits come to ripen, the fish to die, and the 
 position of the stars, in which they are ready and practised." 
 
 The season when the fish come to die, has never been understood. 
 When Mr. Buckingham Smith, the learned translator and commentator 
 of the " Narrative of Cabeca de Vaca," asked me, on my return from 
 Mexico, whether in my journeys along the northern shores of the 
 Gulf, I had seen or heard any thing that would enable me to elucidate 
 the passage in question, the incident I have named as happening annu- 
 ally on the bars of the lagoons, when the northers blow, at once occur- 
 red to me ; and on explaining what I had witnessed, Mr. Smith at once 
 agreed with me that this was the true solution of the passage. 
 
532 CORPUS CHRISTI 
 
 should have perished in an open boat ; so we kept as 
 close as possible. 
 
 January Ath. The wind blew violently during the 
 whole night, and the morning opened upon us as cold 
 as ever. The buckets of water that stood outside the 
 door were covered with ice an inch thick. During 
 the forenoon, the wind began to subside, so that I was 
 enabled to take a ride to some of the beautiful places 
 in the vicinity. Several of the party, including Dr. 
 Webb, Major Emory, and Mr. Radziminski, set out in 
 wagons for Indianola, preferring that mode of convey- 
 ance. Mr. Henry Jacobs and two of the servants were 
 all that would undertake the boat voyage with me. 
 
 About noon a light breeze sprung up from the land, 
 when we embarked in our little craft for Saluria, a 
 small port on the Gulf, at the entrance to Matagorda 
 Bay, about one hundred and forty miles distant. We 
 had not proceeded more than ten or twelve miles, be- 
 fore the wind died away and left us becalmed. Creep- 
 ing beneath the deck that covered the forward part of 
 the boat, we stretched ourselves on our blankets in a 
 space about three feet wide, where we contrived to get 
 a little sleep. 
 
 January 5 th. The morning found us on the oppo- 
 site side of Corpus Christi Bay, a light breeze wafting 
 us eastward towards Aransas Pass. The navigation 
 here is carried on with boats of light burden through 
 the shallow bays or lagunas, which line the west and 
 north-west shores of the Gulf of Mexico. These 
 bays are. exceedingly shallow, sometimes presenting a 
 breadth of ten or fifteen miles, by a hundred or more 
 in length. Yet these broad spaces of water are often 
 
TO WASHINGTON. 533 
 
 not more than three or four feet deep, even in the mid- 
 dle. This depth would admit flat-bottomed vessels of 
 large capacity, were it not for the numerous bars which' 
 intersect them, sometimes leaving but a few inches of 
 water; hence, none but flat -bottomed boats can navi- 
 gate these waters, and even these may be suddenly 
 arrested in their progress, should a norther occur and 
 drive the water out of the bays. 
 
 Our course lay through a channel less than twenty 
 yards wide for miles, with bars of sand on both sides 
 but an inch or two above the water. These were 
 covered with myriads of water-fowl, including cranes, 
 swans, herons, ibises, geese, ducks, curlews, plover, 
 sand-pipers, etc. The large cranes and swans stood 
 in lines extending for miles, appearing like a light 
 sandy beach or white cliff; and it was impossible to 
 dispel the delusion, until the vast flock, with a simul- 
 taneous scream that could be heard for miles, rose from 
 their resting place. Occasionally, we would round a 
 point which concealed a bay the surface of which was 
 filled with ducks and geese ; these, taking the alarm, 
 would rise in one continuous flock, making a noise like 
 thunder, as they flapped their wings on emerging from 
 the water. Notwithstanding the vast numbers of these 
 birds, I shot but few ; for the water was so shallow 
 that we could not get within gun shot of them with our 
 boat. With a light skiff, and a few bushes or a bunch 
 of grass, a gunner would have such sport as no other 
 portion of the world can surpass. 
 
 We ran ashore on a beach of shells, knocked up a 
 fire of drift-wood, and got breakfast ; after which we 
 entered Aransas Bay, separated from the Gulf by St. 
 
534 CORPUS CHRISTI 
 
 Joseph's Island. This island is less than two miles 
 wide, and about twenty-five in length. South-west of 
 this, between Aransas Pass and Corpus Christi Inlet, 
 is Mustang Island, already spoken of. 
 
 Aransas Bay extends about twenty-five miles from 
 north-east to south-west, and is about twelve miles 
 wide. It has a general depth of from eight to twelve 
 feet, but is obstructed by a shoal and range of islands 
 extending across it, over which there is less than 
 three feet of water. Connected with Aransas is Co- 
 pano Bay, twenty miles in length by three in width. 
 The shores of these bays are extremely low and flat. 
 
 We made but little progress to-day, the wind hav- 
 ing died away ; and finding ourselves fast on a bar, 
 there was no occasion to anchor. So we again turned 
 in, and lay by till morning. 
 
 January Qth. One of the sailors carried me on 
 shore on his back, that I might have a shot or two at 
 the shoals of ducks near by ; but as there was no shel- 
 ter behind which they could be approached, the few 
 that I shot hardly repaid the trouble. We lay here 
 several hours, when at length a light breeze sprung 
 up from the west which wafted us onward, and across 
 Espiritu Santo Bay, about twenty miles in length and 
 ten in width. At its head, it receives the waters of 
 two considerable rivers, the San Antonio and Guada- 
 lupe. It is separated from the Gulf by Matagorda 
 Island, about thirty miles in length. 
 
 An amusing incident occurred when we were about 
 midway across the bay. We had left Corpus Christi 
 with but a single keg of water, expecting to make our 
 voyage in twenty-four hours. But we had now been 
 
TO WASHINGTON. 535 
 
 out forty-eight hours ; and unless a good breeze should 
 favor us, we could not expect to reach our place of des- 
 tination before the next day. Our water was gone ; 
 and there was none to be found on the beach. Seeing a 
 small craft approaching from an opposite direction, we 
 stood for her ; and when within two hundred yards, 
 our captain hailed her, and asked if they could spare 
 us any water. The reply was in the affirmative ; but 
 when I expected we should pull for her, to my utter 
 surprise, a sailor composedly stepped into the water, 
 and, with a bucket on his arm, walked to the other boat, 
 where he got it filled. The bay was less than three 
 feet deep, although we were many miles from the 
 shore, which was barely visible. Did one not know 
 where he was, he might imagine himself at sea. 
 
 At the eastern end of the bay, the water was so 
 shallow that the passengers were carried on the backs 
 of the men to a small island near by, while the captain 
 and sailors jumped into the water, and lifted and push- 
 ed the boat over. A little further we came to a "dug 
 out" — that is, a passage cut or dug across a bar, about 
 twenty yards through. Here the men got into the 
 water again ; and each of fhe passengers taking an 
 oar, we managed to force the boat through. The shal- 
 lowness of the water and the consequent difficulties of 
 navigating these lagoons after a norther, may be judg- 
 ed of, when I state that our little craft drew less than 
 fifteen inches. 
 
 January 7th. After a third night passed in the 
 open boat, we emerged from these shallow waters soon 
 after day-light ; and crossing Paso Cavallo, with the 
 town of that name on our right, we landed at 8 o'clock 
 
536 CORPUS CHRISTl 
 
 at Decrow's Point We breakfasted at a hotel, where 
 we learned that the steamer Louisiana, from Indianola 
 for New Orleans, would pass here to-morrow. 
 
 Decrow's Point forms the western termination of 
 Matagorda Peninsula, a neck of land about sixty miles 
 in length, and from one to two in width. Within this 
 is Matagorda Bay, another shallow body of water, from 
 six to ten miles wide. Paso Gavallo (Horse Pass) is 
 the entrance to this bay from the Gulf of Mexico, and 
 is always considered safe for vessels drawing from eight 
 to nine feet of water. The principal and most accessi- 
 ble port within Matagorda Bay is Indianola, where 
 steamers drawing eight feet of water enter. Many 
 rivers empty into the bay ; the largest of which, the 
 Colorado, rises in the Guadalupe Mountains, and has a 
 course of about eight hundred miles before it reaches 
 the Gulf. Among the other streams, are the La Vaca 
 and Navidad rivers. Within this bay is La Vaca, which 
 is reached by small vessels. A railway is now in the 
 course of construction from Saluria to San Antonio, 
 which will render this the most important port on the 
 Gulf, it being accessible for large vessels, and affording 
 a safe harbor. An extensive commerce is now carried 
 on between Indianola and New Orleans, with steamers 
 of a large class ; besides which, vessels run direct to 
 New York and Boston. The number of passengers 
 and the quantity of merchandise coming hither, are 
 evidences of the thriving condition of this portion of 
 the State. 
 
 January 8th. The steamer Louisiana came to, this 
 morning, off the Point, when I took passage in her for 
 New Orleans. Major Emory, Dr. Webb, Mr. Radzi- 
 
TO WASHINGTON. 537 
 
 minski, and the other gentlemen who had taken the 
 land route from Corpus Christi, were on board. We 
 stood out to sea with a light wind, and soon after head- 
 ed to the north-east for Galveston. 
 
 January dth. Entered the port of Galveston this 
 morning, where we remained until 4 o'clock, p. M. This 
 city had greatly increased since August, 1850, when 
 we stopped here. Its commerce, too, judging from 
 the number of ships and steamers, must have augment- 
 ed in proportion. 
 
 January 10th. Late in the afternoon we reached 
 New Orleans, where I took up my quarters at the St. 
 Louis Hotel. 
 
 January lltJi. On my journey from Texas, I learned 
 by a newspaper that the United States Senate had, on the 
 assembling of Congress, removed the restriction which 
 prevented the use of the appropriation under certain 
 conditions ; so that the survey might now be permitted to 
 go on again. But the commission had been broken up ; 
 the injury had already been inflicted upon its mem- 
 bers, who were now scattered and on their way to 
 their homes ; and it was too late to return to the field 
 of operations. I, therefore, sent a telegraphic despatch 
 to the Hon. Alex. H. H. Stuart, Secretary of the Inte- 
 rior, advising him of my arrival at New Orleans, with 
 a portion of the officers of the Commission, and request- 
 ing information respecting the funds at my disposal, as 
 well as instructions as to further proceedings. 
 
 January 14th. After waiting four days for an 
 answer to my despatch, the necessity of my being in 
 Washington as soon as possible required that I should 
 delay no longer; particularly as I now learned that 
 
538 CORPUS CHRISTI TO WASHINGTON. 
 
 the telegraph wires were broken, and the communica- 
 tion consequently interrupted. I therefore took pas- 
 sage on the steamer Chancellor, to sail this evening for 
 Louisville, accompanied by Dr. Webb and Messrs. Ja- 
 cobs and Force. Major Emory and the other officers 
 of the Commission were to take the land route ; but 
 having caught a cold in my boat voyage along the 
 Texan coast, from which I was suffering severely, 
 I deemed it most prudent to take a more easy though 
 longer route by the Mississippi River. 
 
 Our boat was deep and consequently slow, so that 
 it was ten days before we reached Louisville : the day 
 after, we took another steamer for Cincinnati, which 
 we reached the following morning, and immediately 
 took the railway cars for Cleveland, on Lake Erie, 
 where we arrived the same evening. I felt keenly 
 the change of temperature to-day, as the ground was 
 covered with snow, and we found ourselves in the 
 midst of a northern winter. After an hour's delay 
 at Cleveland, we took the shore railroad for Buffalo, 
 which should have arrived at that place the following 
 morning in time to connect with the eastern train for 
 Albany ; but we got fast in a snow bank, which de- 
 tained us for six hours. Our fire went out, and there 
 was no wood to supply it. At length the train from 
 Buffalo opened the track, which enabled us to push 
 our way through, so that we arrived in that city at 
 noon. Having missed all the morning trains, we were 
 obliged to wait until five o'clock before we could start 
 for Albany, when the ice and snow on the rails so re- 
 tarded us that we arrived there too late for the morn- 
 ing cars. We had, therefore, to lie over a day ; but 
 
LABORS OF THE BOUNDARY COMMISSION. 539 
 
 this was not unacceptable, as we had been out the two 
 previous nights. The next morning we took the rail- 
 way for Providence, (Dr. Webb leaving us at Worces- 
 ter,) where we arrived the same evening, and where I 
 had the happiness of again meeting my family and 
 friends, from whom I had been separated two years 
 and a half. 
 
 I remained with my family two days, and then left 
 for Washington, and presented myself at the Depart- 
 ment of the Interior. 
 
 RESULTS OF THE LABORS OF THE BOUNDARY 
 COMMISSION. 
 
 Before closing this narrative, it seems proper that I 
 should speak of the work acomplished while the Boun- 
 dary Commission was under my charge. This I do, 
 not so much to lay claim to any merit for the same on 
 my own account, as that the labors of the officers who 
 performed these duties may be made known, and pro- 
 per credit be given to them. 
 
 1. A reconnaissance and survey from Indianola, 
 on the Gulf of Mexico, to El Paso del Norte. 
 
 The plan of this operation was based upon astro- 
 nomical observations, for the latitude and longitude of 
 points, by means of a sextant, chronometers, and a 
 four-feet telescope for observing occultations of stars 
 
540 RESULTS OF THE LABORS 
 
 by the nioon. These points were connected by a chain 
 and compass survey, accompanied by a line of levels, as- 
 far as San Antonio. From El Paso the survey was 
 continued to the Initial Point of the southern boundary 
 of New Mexico on the Rio Grande, making altogether a 
 distance of between nine hundred and a thousand 
 miles surveyed. 
 
 At nearlv all the astronomical stations on this line, 
 upwards of fifty in number, observations were made 
 by a Fox dip circle for magnetic inclination, declina- 
 tion, and intensity. 
 
 An accurate meteorological register was kept 
 through the whole line of march. An interesting com- 
 parison of the aneroid and ordinary barometer was 
 made, extending over elevations varying from the level 
 of the sea to an altitude of six thousand feet. A com- 
 plete set of barometrical and aneroid observations were 
 taken for the construction of a profile, which shows 
 the contour of the whole country from San Antonio 
 to San Eleazario, on the Rio Grande, exhibiting not 
 only the most prominent points, but likewise the ele- 
 vations and depressions in each day's march. 
 
 The astronomical and magnetic observations were 
 made by Lieutenant A. W. Whipple, of the corps of 
 topographical engineers, acting chief astronomer in 
 charge of the party, and under whose direction the 
 whole work was carried on. 
 
 The survey was performed by John Bull, Esq., first 
 assistant surveyor. 
 
 The map of this survey was plotted on a scale of 
 one inch to the mile, and the topography accurately 
 laid down by M. Von Hippel. 
 
OF THE BOUNDARY COMMISSION. 541 
 
 The meteorological observations, including the 
 barometrical profile of the comparison of the aneroid and 
 barometer, and the temperatures of the different springs, 
 etc., etc., met with on the route, were by Marine T. 
 W. Chandler, Esq. 
 
 The sketches exhibiting the characteristic features 
 of the country, were made by Henry C. Pratt, and A. 
 de Vaudricourt, Esqs.* 
 
 2. At the Presidio of San Eleazario, El Paso, Fron- 
 teras, Dona Ana, and the Initial Point on the Rio 
 Grande, a more extensive series of astronomical and 
 magnetic observations were made, and the latitude 
 and longitude of these several places determined by 
 Lieutenant Whipple personally. Lieutenant W. also 
 erected an astronomical observatory at Fronteras, where 
 a most interesting and elaborate series of astronomical, 
 magnetic, and meteorological observations were made, 
 the latter by Mr. Chandler, who continued them after 
 Lieutenant Whipple had taken the field to conduct the 
 survey westward. 
 
 3. At the Copper Mines, in the Rocky Mountains 
 (afterwards Fort Webster), at an elevation of six 
 thousand two hundred feet above the level of the sea, 
 the latitude and longitude were determined by Lieu- 
 tenant Wliipple, and the meteorological observations 
 continued by Mr. Henry C. Force, assisted by Mr. 
 James H. Houston. 
 
 While the Commission was waiting for Colonel 
 
 * The latter accompanied the parties, and soon after his arrival at 
 El Paso left the Commission. Mr. Pratt came up with a train a few 
 months later, and took a large number of sketches. 
 
542 RESULTS OF THE LABORS 
 
 Graham, a party under the charge of John Bull, Esq. first 
 assistant surveyor, made a reconnaisance of the coun- 
 try between the Rio Grande and the Gila, in which a 
 more direct road was opened from Dona Ana to the 
 Copper Mines. This reconnaisance was extended to 
 the Presidio of Janos, in the State of Chihuahua. 
 
 5. The southern boundary of New Mexico, ex- 
 tending west three degrees from the Initial Point on 
 the Rio Grande at 32° 22" north latitude, and from 
 the western termination of the line due north to the 
 Gila, was surveyed exclusively by Lieutenant A. W. 
 Whipple and his assistants. This officer also surveyed 
 the river Gila, from the point where it is intersected 
 by the before-mentioned line to its junction with the 
 Colorado, a distance, including the sinuosities of- the 
 river, of about four hundred and fifty miles, making 
 together between six and seven hundred miles from 
 the Rio Grande to the Colorado. The boundary 
 along this parallel was the most difficult part of the 
 whole survey. 
 
 Astronomical observations were made during the 
 survey of the Gila every night but two, which were 
 cloudy. The whole number of astronomical and me- 
 teorological stations was about sixty ; nearly all of 
 which were also magnetic stations. To these it is 
 proper to add that there were three astronomical and 
 magnetic stations, besides several made by Lieutenant 
 Whipple on his trip from San Diego to the Colorado, 
 in September, 1849, thus completing a consecutive 
 chain of points of observation by this officer extending 
 from the Atlantic coast, via San Antonio, El Paso del 
 Norte, and the mouth of the Gila, to the Pacific Ocean. 
 
OF THE BOUNDARY COMMISSION. 543 
 
 At most of these stations the three elements of inclina- 
 tion, declination, and intensity were observed. 
 
 6. A chain and compass survey was made by A. B. 
 Gray, Esq., Principal Surveyor, his first assistants 
 being John Bull and J. H. Prioleau, Esqs., from the 
 point where the southern boundary of New Mexico 
 strikes the river Gila to a point about seventy miles 
 above its junction with the Colorado, about four hun- 
 dred miles. This survey was independent of that 
 made by Lieut. Whipple.* 
 
 7. In returning from San Diego, California, the 
 unfinished portion of the survey of the Gila was com- 
 pleted by Lieut. Whipple ; after which our parties 
 again united at the Pimo Villages, on the Gila. We 
 then returned together to El Paso by a different route 
 from that taken on our journey out, thereby enabling 
 us to collect much valuable information in the north- 
 ern portions of Sonora and Chihuahua not previously 
 explored by a scientific party. On this journey or 
 reconnoissance (to use a military term), of which a 
 detailed account is given in this work, an elaborate 
 series of astronomical and meteorological observations 
 were made by Lieut. Whipple in the same manner 
 as those before mentioned. The true position in lati- 
 tude and longitude of Tucson, Tubac, Santa Cruz, Gua- 
 dalupe Pass, Janos, and Correlitos, besides intermediate 
 points, was then first determined by this officer ; and 
 the mountains, streams, and other geographical features 
 
 * I regret that I am unable to speak more fully of this survey, as 
 Mr. Gray has never furnished me the details or made any official report 
 to me. 
 
544 RESULTS OF THE LABORS 
 
 of this hitherto unknown region, were accurately deli- 
 neated upon the maps. 
 
 The barometrical profiles constructed by Lieut. 
 Whipple, and the minute topography of the maps laid 
 down in the two extensive journeys in which this 
 officer accompanied me between the Rio Grande and 
 the Pacific, are of the highest importance as showing 
 the practicability of a route for a railroad or other 
 public highway south of the Gila. In order to render 
 this information immediately available, a reduction of 
 the astronomical and meteorological observations has 
 already been made, as well as barometrical profiles of 
 these several reconnoissances. 
 
 The surveys of Mr. Gray and Lieutenant Whipple, 
 and the astronomical observations made by the latter 
 in the journeys to and from California, have enabled 
 the Commission to lay down with accuracy for the first 
 time the geography of the Gila and of the vast region 
 between the Rio Grande and the shores of the Pacific. 
 
 The plot and topographical sketches of the survey 
 between the Rio Grande and the Colorado were mostly 
 completed in California and transmitted to Washing- 
 ton. At the same time reports of various reconnois- 
 sances made along the line, with tables of astronomical, 
 magnetic, and meteorological observations by Lieut. 
 Whipple were forwarded. These plottings, reports, 
 and tables were placed by me in the hands of Major 
 Emory, Principal Surveyor, on my return to Washing- 
 ton ; and engineers and draughtsmen have since been 
 engaged in completing the maps, and reducing the 
 observations, under his direction. 
 
 8. Along this line an extensive series of sketches 
 
OF THE BOUNDARY COMMISSION. 545 
 
 and drawings were made by Henry C. Pratt, Esq., 
 draughtsman and artist to the Commission, which ex- 
 hibit the characteristic features of the regions visited, 
 including the mountain passes, outlines of the mountain 
 chains as they presented themselves to us from different 
 points, etc., etc. ; and convey a far more comprehen- 
 sive idea of the physical geography of the zone of 
 country traversed than can be given in any written 
 description. To this department of our work I de- 
 voted some of my leisure moments, particularly in jour- 
 neys on which I was not accompanied by Mr. Pratt. 
 
 Of the labors of the parties on the Rio Grande or 
 Bravo Del Norte, I have now to speak. These parties 
 were all placed by me under charge of Brevet Lieut. 
 Col. J. D. Graham, of the Topographical Engineers, 
 Principal Astronomer and Head of the Topographical 
 Scientific Corps, a programme of which will be found 
 in Appendix F. This officer was detailed for ser- 
 vice on the Boundary Survey, on the 23d October, 
 
 1850, and reached the Head Quarters of the Commis- 
 sion at the Copper Mines, New Mexico, the nearest 
 point to our field of operations, on the 2d of August, 
 
 1851. He was recalled by the Hon. Alex. H. H. Stu- 
 art, Secretary of the Interior, on the 13th of Septem- 
 ber of the same year ; and on the same day, Brevet 
 Major W. H. Emory was appointed to his place. The 
 latter reached El Paso on the 25th of November, and 
 delivered the order of recall to his predecessor. 
 
 Major Emory, in his letter to me under date of 
 June 1st, 1852,* informing me of the work performed 
 
 * Senate Document, No. 6, Special Session, 1853, p. 42. 
 vol. ii. — 35 
 
546 RESULTS OF THE LABORS 
 
 by his predecessor, says, " A survey of the river had 
 been commenced by Colonel Graham, at the Initial 
 Point, and prosecuted as far as the Paso del Norte, and 
 an observatory partially erected at Frontera, and infor- 
 mation given me by Colonel Graham that Frontera, 
 a cardinal point in the survey, had not yet been deter- 
 mined. / also found it necessary to resurvey the river 
 down to Frontera." * 
 
 Deducting, therefore, the re-survey which Major 
 Emory deemed necessary, there remain the eight miles 
 from Frontera to El Paso, to be placed to the credit 
 of Colonel Graham. The results of the labors of Major 
 W. H. Emory, after taking charge of the Survey of the 
 Rio Grande, were reported to me by that officer as 
 follows, f 
 
 The determination of the latitude and longitude of 
 San Eleazario and Frontera, which had previously been 
 -determined by one of his predecessors, Lieutenant 
 Whipple, while acting as Chief Astronomer. 
 
 The determination of the latitude and longitude of 
 the canon one hundred miles below San Eleazario, the 
 
 * I should do injustice to Mr. Prioleau, a meritorious officer, did I 
 not state, that when directed to make a survey of the Rio Grande from 
 El Paso to the Initial Point, he declared it would be impossible to per- 
 form the work correctly with the instruments at his command. Another 
 undertook it ; the Survey was made and set aside. On Colonel Gra- 
 ham's arrival, another survey was made under his immediate direction, 
 and afterwards rejected by his successor Major Emory. The latter 
 -placed the work in the hands of Mr. Radziminski, Principal Assistant 
 Surveyor, by whom it was executed in a highly satisfactory manner, and 
 accepted as the official Survey. 
 
 \ See Letter from Major Emory to J. R. Bartlett. Senate Doc. 
 Special Session, 1853, No. 6, p. 58. 
 
OF THE BOUNDARY COMMISSION. 547 
 
 Presidio del Norte, Eagle Pass, and Loredo ; the latitude 
 of various intermediate points was determined by the 
 sextant, and the approximate longitude by the passage 
 of chronometers. 
 
 " The survey of the river from El Paso to the Pre- 
 sidio del Norte, was completed by Assistant Von Hip- 
 pel. 
 
 " The survey of the river from Eagle Pass to Loredo, 
 under the orders of Lieutenant Michler. 
 
 " The survey of the river from Eagle Pass to the 
 mouth of the Pecos, by Assistant Schott. 
 
 " The survey of the river from Presidio del Norte to 
 Fort Vicente by Assistant M. T. W. Chandler. 
 
 "The re-survey of the river from Frontera to 32° 
 22', by Principal Assistant Charles Radziminski." 
 
 The length of these several surveys, may be stated 
 approximately at one thousand miles. 
 
 The following recapitulation will show the extent 
 of the surveys, and by whom performed, during the 
 period the Commission was under my charge. 
 
 By Lieutenant A. W. Whipple. 
 
 Indianola to El Paso and the Initial Point, - 
 The Southern Boundary of New Mexico, con- 
 necting the Rio Grande with the Gila, 
 The River Gila to the Colorado, - - - - 
 
 By Lieut. Colonel J. D. Graham. 
 
 On the Rio Grande, near El Paso, 
 By Major W. H. Emory. 
 
 On the Rio Grande, - - - - 
 
 850 miles. 
 
 200 
 
 do. 
 
 450 
 
 do. 
 
 1500 
 
 
 8 
 
 do. 
 
 1000 
 
 do. 
 
 2,508. 
 
548 RESULTS OF THE LABORS 
 
 My successor, General Robert B. Campbell, took 
 the field in May, 1853 ; and under his orders, the sur- 
 vey of the Rio Grande from Loredo to its mouth, and a 
 portion in the canon of that river, was completed be- 
 fore the close of the year. 
 
 In the department of Zoology, much has been 
 accomplished by officers of the Commission. The col- 
 lectors were Mr. J. H. Clark, Dr. Thomas H. Webb, 
 and Mr. Arthur Schott. 
 
 A large collection of fishes was made in the waters 
 of the Rio Grande, and in the tributaries of the Gila 
 and the streams to the south of it, by Mr. Clark, a 
 large portion of which have proved new to science. 
 Many of these have already received a sort of publicity 
 through the proceedings of the Academy of Natural 
 Sciences. Among them are some new genera. Repre- 
 sentatives of the families Ldbridae and Characini, were 
 detected in the waters of the Rio Grande. 
 
 A considerable number of reptiles were collected 
 by Messrs. Clark and Schott, embracing new genera 
 and species, which have already been described by 
 Professors S. F. Baird and Charles Girard, in the 
 Proceedings of the Academy, and their " Catalogue of 
 North American Serpents," published by the Smithso- 
 nian Institution. In speaking of the collection sent 
 home by Mr. Clark in the spring of 1852, these dis- 
 tinguished naturalists remark, that "It will be perfect- 
 ly safe to say, that one hundred undescribed species of 
 North American vertebrate animals have been added 
 to our fauna. The entire annals of zoological history 
 scarcely present a parallel to this case." 
 
 Dr. Webb made an interesting collection of fishes, 
 
OF THE BOUNDARY COMMISSION. 549 
 
 reptiles, and insects, the particulars of which are un- 
 known to me. Mr, Schott, also, collected many in- 
 teresting insects of the orders orthoptera and coleop- 
 tera, part of which have been described by Dr. John 
 L. Leconte. In birds, and the smaller mammalia, 
 some interesting specimens were collected by each of 
 the gentlemen named. 
 
 When fully studied and described, these collec- 
 tions, it is expected, will furnish new and interesting 
 facts respecting the distribution of animal life in the 
 country explored ; and if properly illustrated by figures, 
 they will constitute a most valuable contribution to our 
 knowledge of the animals of that portion of the United 
 States. 
 
 Botanical collections were made by Dr. J. M. Bige- 
 low, Mr. Charles Wright, Mr. George Thurber, and 
 Dr. C. C. Parry. Dr. Bigelow's collections were made 
 upon the road between Indianola and El Paso, in the 
 vicinity of the Copper Mines, and upon the Rio Grande. 
 He also made an excursion to Lake Guzman and other 
 points in pursuit of specimens in his branch of natural 
 science. His collection has not, to my knowledge, 
 been reported upon ; but from the zeal and enthusiasm 
 with which that gentleman prosecuted his researches, 
 there is no doubt that it contains much that is valuable. 
 Mr. Wright accompanied Colonel Graham in his trav- 
 els; and his connection with the Commission ceased 
 soon after the removal of that officer. A portion of 
 Mr. Wright's collection has been published by Dr. 
 Gray among the Memoirs of the Smithsonian Institution, 
 and contains many new genera and species. Mr. W., 
 whose name is identified with the botany of Texas and 
 
550 EESULTS OF THE LABORS 
 
 Northern Mexico, is now engaged in the Ringgold 
 Exploring Expedition, and, by his devotion to the 
 botany of the regions visited, will doubtless contribute 
 largely to the value of the scientific results of that en- 
 terprise. 
 
 Mr. Thurber, though for the greater part of the 
 time acting as quarter-master, made a large collection, 
 the examination of which has not yet been completed. 
 Some six or seven unpublished genera have been de- 
 termined, and a corresponding number of new species. 
 As he collected in localities afterwards passed over by 
 Mr. Wright, and a portion of the time in company 
 with that gentleman, many of the novelties in his col- 
 lection have been anticipated in the memoir alluded 
 to. As Dr. Parry was engaged with a portion of the 
 Commission under Major Emory, I had no opportunity 
 of acquiring a personal knowledge of his labors ; but 
 from his reputation as a botanical observer, I have no 
 doubt that he improved successfully the opportunities 
 his field presented. 
 
 The geological collection was made by Dr. Thomas 
 H. Webb, Secretary of the Joint Commission. This 
 officer was indefatigable in his labors to collect a series 
 of specimens that should illustrate the structure and 
 mineral resources of the vast region traversed by the 
 Commission ; but the collection made on the journey 
 from the Copper Mines of New Mexico to California 
 was mostly lost, in consequence of the abandonment 
 of the wagons and the perishing of the animals. A 
 few boxes of minerals, were, however, collected in 
 California and sent home in safety by water. On the 
 journey from the Pacific coast, by the Gila and El 
 
OF THE BOUNDARY COMMISSION. 551 
 
 Paso, and thence through Chihuahua and the Mexican 
 States to the south, Dr. Webb was enabled to make a 
 collection of fossils and minerals, including some choice 
 specimens of gold and silver ores, which were brought 
 home in safety A collection of fossils and minerals in 
 the valley of the Rio Grande was also made by Mr. 
 Arthur Schott. 
 
 In ethnology the collection was made almost ex- 
 clusively by myself. This consists of vocabularies, 
 each embracing two hundred words, in upwards of 
 twenty Indian languages. Many of these had never 
 been taken down before, and few as fully as by me. 
 
 Further to illustrate the aboriginal tribes, I have 
 obtained accurate and characteristic portraits of many 
 individuals seen, both male and female, with sketches 
 exhibiting their manners and customs, their arts, hus- 
 bandry, etc. 
 
 I had prepared an extended disquisition on the 
 semi-civilized tribes occupying the vast basin between 
 the Rocky Mountains, or rather the Rio Grande, and 
 the Colorado of California ; but the subject was found 
 to be so extensive and so deeply interesting, that I 
 determined to reserve it for a special report, which I 
 intend to prepare on the ethnology of the Indian tribes 
 of the extensive region explored by the Boundary 
 Commission, in which also my Indian vocabularies 
 will be embraced. 
 
 By the preceding statement it will be seen that no 
 exertions were spared, and no suitable opportunities 
 omitted, to do all in my power to advance the cause of 
 science. It now remains for the government to take 
 such measures as it may deem proper to lay the results 
 
552 RESULTS OF THE LABORS, ETC. 
 
 of the Commission, obtained with so much labor, with 
 so much expense, and with so much personal suffering 
 and privation, before the American people and the 
 scientific world. 
 
NOTES. 
 
NATURAL HISTORY. 555 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 The Natural history of the regions traversed — Animal life on the deserts 
 — Quadrupeds — Keptiles, their great variety and numbers — Peculiar 
 vegetation of the deserts — The " Prairie Dog " and its habits — The 
 antelope, etc. 
 
 Having but incidentally spoken of the Natural History of the 
 countries I passed through, I now propose to give some brief 
 notices of the most remarkable animals that were seen from 
 time to time. 
 
 In a region as barren as the greater portion of that tra- 
 versed, animal life would hardly be expected to abound. 
 Nevertheless, there was no spot, however barren, or however 
 distant from water, where rabbits and wolves were not seen. 
 On these plains, whether desert or grassy, there are fewer 
 birds. Often, for days together, nothing of the feathered 
 tribe was seen except the omnipresent crow. Living equally 
 well on animal food, seeds, or roots, there is no place where he 
 may not thrive. 
 
 In the mountains and along the water-courses, where there 
 are more or less forest trees and shrubbery, both quadrupeds 
 and birds are found in greater variety. Among the former 
 may be mentioned the leopard, cougar, ocelot, lynx, panther ; 
 the brown, black, and grizzly bear ; the fox, antelope, and various 
 kinds of deer ; the large wolf (lobo), and the coyote, raccoon, 
 skunk, marmot, weasel; a great variety of moles, rats, and mice, 
 
556 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 which harhor in the ground ; hares, rabbits, squirrels, Rocky 
 Mountain sheep, etc. These several animals, of course, have 
 their particular localities. The elk is not found south of the 
 Gila. The beaver is still met with on the Pecos, the Rio 
 Grande, the Gila and its northern tributaries ; and within a 
 mile of El Paso I saw evidences of his labors. In the Copper 
 Mine region, which is in the Rocky Mountains, almost every 
 animal that I have named may be found ; bears in particular 
 are extremely abundant. 
 
 But while the parched and desert plains are so destitute of 
 quadrupeds and birds, they abound in reptiles and insects in 
 the greatest variety. Lizards of every size and color, from one 
 and a half to eighteen inches in length, are found here ; all of 
 which are harmless. Then comes the family of "horned frogs" 
 which are allied to the chameleon and lizard. Of these harm- 
 less little creatures, all covered, as a means of defence, with 
 sharp horny projections, there is also a great variety. Next to 
 these, come the poisonous reptiles. First is the horrid taran- 
 tula, with his hairy body as large as a pigeon's egg, and with 
 legs as long as one's finger, striding over the ground and nest- 
 ling under one's blankets at night. His sting, or bite, some- 
 times causes death. His habitation is in the ground, the open- 
 ing to which he covers over with a trap-door. There are other 
 large spiders that also harbor in the earth, and protect the en- 
 trance to their abodes in the same manner. Next are the 
 white and the black scorpions, the former of which are very 
 abundant. These are from one and a half to two inches in 
 length. The sting of the black variety is sometimes fatal. The 
 white ones were often found in the boots of the men, into which 
 they crept at night, and were not discovered until they stung 
 the foot. A sharp pain was the consequence for a few hours, 
 or perhaps a day, when it passed off. These creatures were 
 sometimes found in our beds in the morning. 
 
 But perhaps there is no more hideous-looking reptile infest- 
 ing the plains than the centipede. These are from three to ten 
 
NATURAL HISTORY. 557 
 
 inches in length, and are exceedingly poisonous, sometimes 
 fatal. Then there is the venagron, as the Mexicans call it, a 
 black insect about two inches in length, also very poisonous ; 
 and lastly, the alacran, a species of scorpion, the most venomous 
 of all. These last, fortunately, are chiefly confined to the city 
 of Durango ; where, owing to their numbers, and the fatality 
 which attends their sting, a bounty of six cents is given by the 
 government for every one killed. We close this catalogue 
 with the rattlesnake, which needs no description. This creature 
 is found every where, from the Gulf of Mexico to the Pacific, 
 alike in grassy, rocky, and desert regions. Hundreds of them 
 were killed by our party ; yet I am not aware that any of us 
 were bitten. Two horses that were bitten died. All the 
 other reptiles and insects of which I have spoken are found 
 throughout the countries contiguous to the Boundary, and were 
 seen almost daily. Thus has nature adapted a numerous class 
 of animals for the otherwise solitary desert, where they enjoy 
 undisputed sway. These plains also abound in moles, rats, 
 mice, rabbits, and other burrowing animals ; sometimes to such 
 an extent, that it is dangerous to pass over them with horses 
 and mules. Many specimens of the lesser mammalia were 
 brought home by the Commission, as well as a collection of 
 reptiles and insects. Of reptiles, a very large number was 
 discovered which are entirely new. This collection is now in 
 the cabinet of the Smithsonian Institution at Washington. 
 
 One of the most interesting animals met with on the prai- 
 ries and high table-lands, is the " prairie dog," which is in 
 fact no other than a marmot, having no character in common 
 with dogs. Its look and habits are totally different. The 
 Canadian trappers used to call it a " petit chien ;" and this, to- 
 gether with the noise it makes, which however, is more of a 
 chirp or yelp than a bark, has caused it to receive the name 
 of 'prairie dog.' 
 
 The first community of these little creatures we met with 
 was in Texas, near Brady's Creek, a branch of the Colorado 
 
558 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 of the east. This was the largest we ever saw, nor have I 
 ever heard of one as extensive. For three days we travelled 
 through this colony, during which time we did not lose sight 
 of them. On either side, as far as we could see over the plain, 
 their habitations extended, standing out in bold relief in the 
 little hillocks they had raised with the earth brought from 
 their subterranean abodes. Their habitations are usually 
 about ten yards apart, and the hillocks contain from one to 
 two cartloads of earth each. Some have one entrance, others 
 two, which incline at an angle of about forty-five degrees. 
 To what depth they extend I could never learn, and only 
 know that the frequent attempts to drown the animals out by 
 pouring large quantities of water in them, have rarely suc- 
 ceeded.* 
 
 A well-beaten track extends from one to the other of these 
 hillocks, showing that a close intimacy exists between their 
 occupants, or perhaps family connection. We supposed this 
 community or " dog-town," as it is called, extended at least 
 sixty miles, as we travelled at that time twenty miles a day. 
 As to its width, we could not form a decided opinion ; but 
 presuming it to have been only half as wide as it was long, an 
 idea may be formed of the vast number of animals it con- 
 tains.f 
 
 For the greater part of this distance the country was flat, 
 and covered with short grass, kept so probably by these ani- 
 
 * Lieutenant Abert mentions an instance -where several were obtained by 
 pouring water into their burrows. They afterwards became quite tame. — 
 Report, p. 421. 
 
 f If we suppose that this community extended fifty miles in one direction 
 and but ten in another, we have a superficies of five hundred square miles; 
 and allowing them to be thirty feet apart, or nine hundred square feet for 
 each (a large allowance), it would give about thirty thousand habitations to 
 the square mile, or 15,000,000 in the five hundred miles. Estimating but two 
 of these little creatures, which is the smallest supposable number to a habita- 
 tion, we have a total of thirty millions in this community. I think it would be 
 quite safe to reckon three or perhaps four animals to each hillock. 
 
NATURAL HISTORY. 559 
 
 nials feeding on it. A few scattered mezquit trees also grew 
 among them. Rivers did not limit the colony ; for they were 
 found on both sides of several streams. In several places I 
 noticed a colony on the summit of elevated plateaus or hills, 
 where the country was exceedingly barren, and the herbage so 
 scant as to appear entirely inadequate to their subsistence. 
 In this case it was evident that the colony was not in a flou- 
 rishing condition, as many of the habitations were deserted. 
 
 Of the habits of these animals I can say little from obser- 
 vation, although I saw thousands of them. I would gladly 
 have taken a day to conceal myself near them for the purpose 
 of watching their actions, but when in the most interesting 
 places we were moving forward. Major Long, in his Expedition 
 to the Rocky Mountains, says they pass the winter in a lethar- 
 gic state. Other travellers deny this, and say that they 
 come from their holes during the winter whenever the weather 
 is mild. I saw them out on some pretty cold days in Novem- 
 ber. Even in the plains further to the north, where snow lies 
 on the ground for weeks, and where the cold is severe, they 
 are seen out during the winter. 
 
 Where they obtain water has puzzled naturalists. Some 
 travellers say that they dig down until they find it. This can- 
 not be the case ; for I have seen them on dry elevated plains, 
 twenty miles from water, and where there was no dew. 
 
 The color of the prairie dog is light brown. The lower 
 part of its body, with the face and neck, are of a whitish yel- 
 low. Its size varies from that of a gray squirrel to that of a 
 northern woodchuck, which it resembles in form more than 
 any other animal. The body of a full-grown specimen is 
 about twelve inches in length ; its tail, which is bushy, be- 
 tween three and four. It stands erect like a squirrel, with its 
 tail in constant motion, particularly when seated upon the top 
 of its hillock chirping to its companions. As we drew near 
 their villages, an alarm seemed to be given by one placed as a 
 sentinel on a hillock in the outskirts. As soon as the signal 
 
560 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 was made, a general scampering to get home took place 
 among them, some running in one direction, some in another. 
 When they reached their habitations, they would stand erect 
 at their entrances, with their heads just peeping above, and 
 keep up an incessant chirping and frisking of their tails until 
 we passed. As we drew quite near, some of them would turn a 
 somerset into their holes and disappear. 
 
 We found it difficult to secure them ; for they always 
 stood at the entrance of their burrows, so that, if shot, they 
 fell within. I do not think that out of twenty shots sometimes 
 fired at these creatures, more than one specimen was obtained. 
 
 This marmot is said to be good food ; but at the time we 
 killed those referred to, our provisions were abundant, and no 
 one could be induced to try them. Subsequently, when we got 
 on short allowance, I do not think any one would have hesi- 
 tated to eat them. 
 
 Eabbits often burrow with these animals, or, what is more 
 probable, they occupy habitations made by the latter. The 
 habits of a rabbit lead him to places where there are more 
 shrubs, and not a bare plain. It is probable, therefore, that 
 the rabbits seen among the prairie dogs are merely wanderers, 
 who have strayed away from their proper abodes, and finding 
 comfortable quarters already .provided, without the labor of 
 burrowing themselves, have driven away the weaker animals 
 and taken possession of their dwellings. 
 
 A small brown owl also resides with the prairie clogs, 
 and is almost always found standing on their hillocks, acting 
 perhaps as a sentinel, for which the community has to pay 
 clear. He is undoubtedly an interloper ; as, from the known 
 habits of this bird, one of which is its fondness for ground mice, 
 moles, and other small quadrupeds, it doubtless seeks the ha- 
 bitations of the prairie dogs to feed on their young. The parent 
 dogs can have little courage to permit a diminutive bird like 
 this to prey upon their offspring. 
 
 But the most serious interloper in the dog-towns is the 
 
NATURAL HISTORY. 561 
 
 rattlesnake. I had often heard that this reptile was found 
 among them, and thought it must be accidental, until I wit- 
 nessed how frequently it occurs. On one occasion I saw sev- 
 eral of those revolting creatures enter a single hole in the very 
 midst of a dog-town. JSTo one can believe that any friendship 
 exists between animals of such opposite natures ; and it can- 
 not be doubted that the rattlesnake takes up his abode among 
 them for sinister purposes. They cannot drive him away, and 
 are therefore compelled to give him quiet possession of any 
 habitation he may enter, and allow him occasionally to feed 
 upon the junior members of the fraternity. 
 
 I have seen the prairie dogs in Texas, New Mexico, Chi- 
 huahua, Sonora, and California. 
 
 During our various journeys we encountered numerous 
 herds of antelopes on the plains. Several were shot and found 
 to be excellent eating. They are more timid than the deer, 
 and a good deal of stratagem is necessary to secure one. 
 
 The antelope is considered a more beautiful animal than 
 the deer. Its legs are more slender, and its body of different 
 colors, light and dark brown, red with a white belly, spotted, 
 and sometimes pure white. Their horns are quite short and 
 consist of a simple curved stem without branches. Catlin, I 
 think, in his Wild Sports of the West, speaks of the curiosity 
 of the antelope's disposition, and of a method resorted to by 
 hunters to entrap or shoot it. This is to affix a piece of red 
 cloth to a pole and insert it in the earth. The animals see it 
 as they bound over the prairie, turn from their course, and 
 timidly approach it, some venturous buck leading the way. 
 The rest of the herd follow him in single file, after the old es- 
 tablished custom of the prairies. In the mean time the hunt- 
 er has concealed himself in the grass, so that, when the herd 
 approaches, he selects the fattest for his mark. It sometimes 
 happens that several are thus killed from a single herd. One 
 of the members of the Commission tried the experiment of 
 lying in wait for a passing herd. As they approached he shot 
 vol. ii. — 3G 
 
562 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 one. The frightened animals ran a short distance, and then 
 stopped and turned round to see what the mysterious noise 
 was that had so alarmed them. They even returned to the 
 spot where their dead comrade lay. A second shot brought 
 another to the ground. The herd, again startled at the report 
 of the rifle, loped slowly away a short distance, and once more 
 returned to t\e fatal spot, when another was brought down. 
 The sportsman now rose from his place of concealment and 
 secured his three animals. How long they would have con- 
 tinued to return, I know not. He had but three bullets with 
 him. 
 
 In some parts of Texas deer are so abundant that it ceases 
 to be a sport to kill them. Neither skill nor ingenuity is re- 
 quired, and even the usual caution of the practised sportsman 
 is unnecessary. Such is the case on the lower road from San 
 Antonio to El Paso, at a stream called Turkey Creek. Here 
 the train stopped one day to rest, when twenty deer were killed 
 and brought to camp. After leaving the Bio Grande we found 
 none until we reached the Bio Mimbres, where again they 
 became numerous. Beyond that we found them in the moun- 
 tains and along the bottom-lands of the Gila, but not in large 
 numbers. 
 
 On the whole, game, both animals and birds, was scarce 
 throughout the broad regions traversed by us, except in the 
 mountain districts, where it was abundant. In California, 
 however, after reaching the rich valleys and timbered country, 
 it is found in still greater quantity and variety; but my 
 •stay was so short there, and my journeys confined to so limited 
 a district, that I am unprepared to testify except to the general 
 fact. 
 
 In noticing the distribution of animals over the desert 
 regions which occupy so large a space of the interior of our con- 
 tinent, it will have been observed how beautifully nature has 
 adapted them for these districts. Here man, the terror of all 
 animals, cannot live ; for there is no soil that he can cul- 
 
NATURAL HISTORY. 563 
 
 tivate, no water to slake his thirst, no wood to supply him 
 with fuel ; nor can the domestic animals so necessary to him 
 exist. But while these inferior animals have such undisputed 
 sway unmolested by man, their lives are, nevertheless, attended 
 with other dangers. It might be supposed that the venom of 
 the tarantula, the centipede, the scorpion, and the rattlesnake 
 would effectually preserve them from all enemies. But such 
 is not the case. A most voracious bird is found here, called 
 by the Mexicans the " paysano" and by the Americans the 
 " chcvpporal cock," which feeds on these hideous creatures. He 
 even ventures to attack the rattlesnake, and, as if aware of 
 the latter's venom, protects himself from its fangs by using his 
 wing as a shield. Many instances have been related to me by 
 eye-witnesses of contests between the rattlesnake and this bird, 
 in which the latter always came off conqueror. His aim is to 
 seize the reptile by the back of his neck, when he may be con- 
 sidered as vanquished. With the exception of this bird and 
 the hog, every animal has an instinctive dread of rattle- 
 snakes, and will fly at their approach. The hog eats them with 
 impunity. Other dangers attend these reptiles from crows, 
 buzzards, and hawks ; wdiile the serpent tribe get their living 
 on the lizards and frogs. 
 
 Another peculiarity of the desert is its remarkable vegeta- 
 tion ; every thing being armed with thorns. First comes the 
 endless variety of cacti, to look at some of which will make 
 one shudder. These are seen from the tiny plant not larger 
 than the finger to the giant petahaya raising its tall stem to 
 the height of fifty feet. Then come the mezquit or acacia, 
 the tornilla, the fouquiera, the agaves, and yuccas, all armed 
 with the most terrific spikes or thorns. Even among the tender 
 grasses, the mezquit has its minute thorns. But these thorny 
 and angular forms are not confined to animal and vegetable 
 life : they seem to be extended to nature even in the grandest 
 aspect in which she here appears. The mountain ridges, 
 as I have before observed, present the most singular summits, 
 
564 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 terminating in pyramidal points, or resembling towers, mina- 
 rets, etc, Thus is every thing in these regions peculiar. To 
 indemnify man for the inhospitable deserts and barren soil 
 which occupies so large a space, nature furnishes, embowelled 
 in her innumerable mountains, the greatest variety and abund- 
 ance of precious metals. The vast riches embedded in the 
 great "Sierra Madre" are as yet little dreamt of; but I do 
 not hesitate to say that for wealth of this description even 
 California will yet have to yield the palm to these mountains. 
 
 Without entering into particulars about the variety of 
 fishes brought home, I will merely observe, that while at San 
 Diego, California, in May, 1852, Dr. Webb caused a seine to 
 be drawn in the bay, which brought to light some exceedingly 
 interesting specimens, and among them several which, on being 
 opened for the purpose of better preserving them in alcohol, 
 were found, to our great surprise, to contain each ten or twelve 
 living young. They excited much attention at the time, 
 being the first evidence brought to light, as far as we were 
 aware, of the existence of viviparous fishes. 
 
 The public has been informed of the subsequent discovery 
 of similar fishes in the Bay of San Francisco ; but of those 
 found by us in the Bay of San Diego no description has yet 
 been given. Our specimens, after being kept alive in water 
 several days, were sent with other objects of natural history to 
 Boston, where they safely arrived. 
 
ADAPTATION OF THE COUNTRY FOR A RAILWAY. 565 
 
 ADAPTATION OF THE COUNTRY FOR A RAILWAY. 
 
 Brief remarks on the Geography of the countries traversed oy the Boun- 
 dary Commission, and upon their adaptation for a Railroad connecting 
 the Atlantic with the Pacific. 
 
 Feom the Kio Grande eastward, between the parallels of 30 
 and 34 north latitude, lies the great plateau of Texas,* extend- 
 ing more than three hundred miles. Further north it is known 
 as the Llano Estacado, or Staked Plain. This broad district 
 is destitute of forest trees and shrubbery, except along the 
 immediate margin of the water-courses. The belt of forest 
 even here is exceedingly limited, being often confined to the 
 very banks, and never extending a hundred yards from the 
 stream. In this region the Ked Kiver, the Brazos, and the 
 Colorado have their rise ; but it is not until they have coursed 
 for some hundreds of miles that their banks present any con- 
 siderable extent of bottom land with its accompanying forests. 
 As they descend from the high table, the valleys expand, the 
 land becomes more fertile, luxuriant valleys appear, and for- 
 ests of oaks extend for miles. 
 
 The plateau bears but little grass, and this a short stunted 
 variety, which, after rains, shoots rapidly up, and as speedily 
 becomes dry, affording but little sustenance. Without water 
 and grass this arid belt is an effectual barrier to the progress 
 of the buffalo, which otherwise would cover in myriads the 
 plains of Lower Texas. 
 
 * A large portion of this desert plateau is now included within the territory 
 of New Mexico, having been transferred to the United States by purchase. 
 
566 ADAPTATION OF THE COUNTRY 
 
 About the parallel of 29° 30' the table-land breaks off into 
 numerous spurs, descending to the great plains or prairies, 
 which extend to the shores of the Gulf of Mexico in a broad 
 belt from one hundred and fifty to two hundred miles in 
 width. The whole of this district consists of gently undulat- 
 ing plains without timber, save along the margins of the streams, 
 and is covered with the most luxuriant grass. The eastern 
 portion of this plain is watered by numerous streams, and in 
 fertility is unsurpassed by any portion of the globe. The 
 western and south-western portion is deficient in water-courses. 
 The Kio Grande possesses few tributaries here worth notice : 
 and south of the Nueces, the streams entering into the Gulf 
 are quite diminutive. But for grazing and rearing large herds 
 of cattle, the land is unsurpassed ; and it is evident, from what 
 we saw of wells sunk in the midst of these plains, that water 
 can be found any where within a hundred feet of the surface. 
 
 " The indigenous j>rairie grass is tall, coarse, full of seed 
 at the top, and when young resembles wheat in the spring. 
 But in grasses the glory of the State is the mezquit, found 
 only in Western Texas. It yields a fine soft sward, preserves 
 its verdure in the winter, and beyond all comparison affords 
 the best wild pasture in the world. It has also the peculiar 
 property of retaining its nutritive quality after it has become 
 hard and dry." 
 
 West of the Eio Grande, from about the thirty-fourth 
 parallel to the Gulf of California, and, I may add, to the 
 shores of the Pacific, and thence south for eight hundred or a 
 thousand miles, this vast region is but poorly adapted to agri- 
 culture. It is destitute of forests, except in the higher regions 
 of the Sierra Madre, or great chain of the Cordilleras, or in the 
 defiles leading to them. Timbered land is also found in nar- 
 row strips along the water-courses ; but these cannot with 
 propriety be termed forests. There are also valleys between 
 parallel ranges of mountains, sometimes two or three miles in 
 width, which derive some moisture from the mountains, where 
 
FOR A RAILWAY. 567 
 
 the mezquit and live-oak attain a considerable size. Grass 
 appears only at intervals. The high table-land of Chihuahua 
 exhibits it in the greatest quantity ; but even there it is not 
 continuous. Sometimes it is found spreading over districts 
 fifty or more miles in extent, when a barren interval of thorny 
 chapporal appears, and for miles a blade of grass is not to be 
 seen. Upon the whole I feel safe in saying that of the ele- 
 vated plateau not more than two thirds can be called a graz- 
 ing country. But even this presents a vast surface, extending 
 from about the parallel of 32° 40', where the Kocky Moun- 
 tains suddenly drop off near the Copper Mines of New Mexico 
 (now Fort Webster), to the twenty-sixth parallel. The water- 
 courses here run towards the north, and discharge themselves 
 into lakes which have no outlets. The Conchos alone, a 
 stream which is as large as the Eio Grande, and has many 
 tributaries, discharges itself into that river. It is in that por- 
 tion of Chihuahua which forms the eastern slope of the Sierra 
 Madre, as I have before said, that the best arable and tim- 
 bered land is to be found. This, for a mountainous district, is 
 well watered. 
 
 The district south of the river Gila, between the Bio 
 Grande and the Pacific, for about one hundred and fifty miles 
 in width, is of the most barren character. The summit of the 
 great ridge or plateau is covered with a short grass. On 
 leaving this and proceeding westward come broad plains, 
 with but little vegetation, save the stunted mezquit and other 
 plants common to these arid regions. This broad belt extends 
 to the Pacific, and is crossed at intervals of from fifteen to 
 thirty miles with short and isolated ridges of mountains from 
 one thousand to two thousand feet above the plain, running 
 from north-west to south-east. These at a distance appear 
 like a continuous chain ; but on approaching them, they are 
 found to be in short ridges from five to ten miles in length, over- 
 lapping each other and affording easy passages across. In this 
 respect these chains differ from the mountain ranges both at 
 
568 ADAPTATION OF THE COUNTRY 
 
 the north and at the south. Coming from the north, they 
 present but few openings until they reach the parallel of about 
 32° 40', where they suddenly fall off eight miles south of Fort 
 Webster and disappear entirely. At Fort Webster,* between 
 the Gila and the Eio Grande, these mountains attain a height 
 of more than eight thousand feet above the level of the sea.f 
 They rise in peaks, separated by narrow and intricate valleys, 
 and maintain this character until they terminate on the pla- 
 teau, as stated. This plateau extends southwardly through 
 the greater portion of Mexico. 
 
 In about the latitude of 31° 15' north, the great Cordillera 
 range again begins to appear on the western border of the 
 table-land, and is as it were the concentration of many lesser 
 ridges into one vast chain, elevated, compact, and impassable, 
 extending through the entire length of New Mexico to the 
 Cordillera of the Andes in South America. The wap;on road 
 of Colonel Cooke, followed by the Commission, crosses a spur 
 of the Sierra Madre here. A second pass, for mules only, 
 exists a short distance further south, connecting Correlitos 
 with Babispe ; after which there is no passage through, nor can 
 these mountains be crossed again with mules for several hun- 
 dred miles. 
 
 The river Gila, from its source to a point about fifty miles 
 below where the San Pedro enters, is closely hemmed in by 
 lofty and impassable mountains. After this they appear only 
 at intervals, and not in continuous chains. The rest of the 
 valley of the Gila is quite open to its junction with the Colo- 
 rado. The mountains in a few instances reach the banks of the 
 
 * Fort Webster was established at the Copper Mines, or Santa Rita del 
 Cobre, after they were abandoned by the Boundary Commission in October, 1851. 
 
 f Mr. Henry C. Force, the indefatigable officer in charge of the meteorologi- 
 cal department attached to the astronomical party of Lieutenant Whipple, as- 
 cended to the highest summit of the Bufa del Cobre, near our encampment, 
 with a barometer, and ascertained its height to be seven thousand nine hun- 
 dred and ninety seven feet above the level of the sea, and one thousand eight 
 hundred and one feet above the valley where we were encamped. 
 
FOR A RAILWAY. 569 
 
 river ; but they are passed by following the valley of the river 
 or other openings through them. 
 
 No stream enters the Gila on the south side after the San 
 Pedro is passed. There is a small water-course known as the 
 Santa Cruz River, which rises in some springs near the sources 
 of the San Pedro, and which, after a course of less than a 
 hundred miles, is lost in the desert near Tucson. Near this 
 are good lands, which by irrigation are rendered fertile. We 
 have, therefore, a space of about two hundred and fifty miles 
 without a water-course or arable valley except the Santa Cruz, 
 and nearly one hundred and sixty miles before any consider- 
 able stream is reached at the south, in the State of Sonora. 
 This wide region is of the most barren and desert-like character, 
 consisting of arid plains, with short and detached ridges of 
 mountains at long intervals. 
 
 The water-courses of Sonora take their rise in the Sierra 
 Madre and in the mountains at the north. Those which rise 
 in the former, receiving a more copious and constant supply of 
 water, reach the ocean ; while the streams in the northern por- 
 tion of the State, after traversing arid deserts, and forcing 
 their way through lofty mountains for three or four hundred 
 miles, lose so much by evaporation that they do not reach the 
 sea, but are swallowed up in the sands of the desert or ciene- 
 gas (marshes). These streams lose much, too, by irrigating 
 the cultivated valleys through which they run. 
 
 Except along the bottom-lands of these streams, there is 
 no arable land in Sonora. What there is, however, is exceed- 
 ingly fertile, and yields enormous crops. Owing to the rapid 
 descent of the streams, the water is easily controlled and con- 
 ducted by irrigating canals over the arable lands ; so that 
 every considerable land-owner may have his own canals. In 
 the northern portion of the State, near the Gila, there is but 
 little tillable land. The best portion of it is that occupied by 
 the Pimo and Coco-Maricopa Indians. In portions of the 
 Santa Cruz and San Pedro valleys are good lands, but the 
 
570 ADAPTATION OF THE COUNTRY 
 
 quantity is small ; and the latter is rather a grazing than an 
 agricultural district. 
 
 In about the latitude of 31° the water-courses of northern 
 Sonora begin to appear, and with them the luxuriant valleys, 
 through several of which I found my way across the country 
 to the Gulf. Those streams, though denominated rivers, 
 would scarcely be characterized as such in the United States ; 
 the term rivulet would be far more appropriate. 
 
 As regards the construction of a railway through Texas, 
 the country is entirely open and generally level. The first 
 elevation to be passed, following the parallel of 32 degrees, is 
 Castle Mountain, about ten miles east of the river Pecos, 
 which may be avoided by diverging either to the north or 
 south. After crossing the Pecos, the route should be south 
 of the Guadalupe range of mountains, a lofty and continuous 
 chain, which, coming from the north, where it is united by the 
 Sacramento range, terminates abruptly in about 31° 50 ; north 
 latitude. South of these mountains, the country is quite open 
 and apparently level, with isolated mountains at long inter- 
 vals, but no connected chains. For the hundred miles which 
 we followed the Pecos, there were neither hills nor mountains, 
 and this character of country extends to the Rio Grande. A 
 mountain chain, called the " Sierra de los Organos," crosses this 
 river near El Paso, and extends north for some eighty miles. 
 These mountains may easily be passed through where the river 
 has opened a way for itself near El Paso, and again about forty 
 miles to the north. But surveys must determine whether, in 
 coming from the Mississippi, a route near the parallel of 32 
 degrees, or along the Colorado or Canadian rivers, will be more 
 practicable. 
 
 After crossing the Rio Grande, should a point north of El 
 Paso, between the latitude of 31° 53' and 32° 20' be selected, 
 there is an open country for more than one hundred miles. 
 Some mountain ranges are then to be passed, through easy 
 slopes or defiles, and in no case by surmounting them. In fact, 
 
FOR A RAILWAY. 571 
 
 so gradual are the ascents and descents, that they are scarcely 
 perceived. After they are passed, broad, open, and level plains 
 occur, where for miles very slight embankments or excava- 
 tions will be required for the construction of a road. 
 
 If, on examination, it is not deemed advisable to cross the 
 Eio Grande within the district named, we must then strike it 
 about twenty-five miles further south, near San Eleazario, 
 thence across the basin of that river to the table-land beyond 
 and south of the mountains which lie west of El Paso. Broad 
 level plains again occur here without any continuous moun- 
 tain chain. 
 
 An idea has arisen that the line of Colonel Cooke's road is 
 a practicable one for a railway. This is a great mistake. That 
 road crosses a spur of the Sierra Madre with a descent of from 
 twelve to fifteen hundred feet in ten miles, all of which is avoid- 
 ed by keeping some ten or twenty miles to the north. In fact, 
 my route with the engineering parties across this district, as 
 detailed in this narrative, diverging occasionally a few miles, 
 will be found a practicable one. 
 
 The first barrier of consequence, of which I cannot speak 
 with certainty, is a range of mountains beyond the San Pedro 
 river, bounding the Santa Cruz valley on the east. They termi- 
 nate in latitude 31° 15' where our parties passed them. Be- 
 tween 32° and 32° 22' they are passed by wagons, but I cannot 
 state with what facility. If an opening exists any where between 
 the 32d parallel and the Gila, the last obstacle to reaching the 
 plateau near that river is overcome. Here is an open level plain, 
 from one hundred to one hundred and twenty miles across, to 
 the river mentioned. In fact, it may be said that when the San 
 Pedro Mountains are passed, we shall have an uninterrupted 
 plain of about two hundred and fifty miles to the Colorado. 
 
 It will thus appear, that the entire district from the Rio 
 Grande to the Colorado, which may be put in round numbers 
 at five hundred miles, consists of broad, open, gravelly plains, 
 from fifteen to twenty- five miles in width, with scarcely an un- 
 
572 ADAPTATION OF THE COUNTRY 
 
 dulation, and for long distances requiring but slight excava- 
 tions and embankments. The mountains may be passed through 
 open defiles of easy ascent and descent. When the Gila is reach- 
 ed, either the bottom or the table land may be followed ; though 
 the latter will doubtless have the preference, as it presents a per- 
 fectly hard and level surface. In a few instances, ranges of moun- 
 tains approach the bottom-land of the Gila. Openings may 
 doubtless be found through these, or they may be passed by 
 cutting away near the river. 
 
 The Colorado River presents no difficulties for bridging. 
 At Fort Yuma, where the Grila joins it, it is about six hun- 
 dred feet wide, but above and below the junction, it expands 
 to eight hundred and twelve hundred feet. In dry seasons 
 there is between four and five feet of water at Fort Yuma. 
 
 After this river is passed, we reach the great California 
 Desert, about one hundred miles across, which increases in 
 width towards the north. This desert is destitute of wood, 
 water, and grass ; it presents a hard level surface with slight 
 undulations, and seems almost graded by nature for a railway. 
 After leaving the bottom or valley of the Colorado, and before 
 the table-land or desert is reached, there is a belt of moving 
 sand. Its southern extremity is now about twelve miles below 
 Fort Yuma, where I passed it with my parties without cross- 
 ing it. Its breadth is about four, and its entire length, less 
 than twenty miles. This is the only belt of moving sand that 
 I know or within the district referred to, west of the Rio Grande. 
 
 On passing this desert, we reach the Sierra Nevada, where 
 a pass must be sought, and for this purpose engineers are now 
 in the field. To reach San Diego, it will be necessary to tun- 
 nel the coast range of mountains ; and it is probable that either 
 a tunnel or an inclined plain with stationary engines will be 
 indispensable to cross the Sierra Nevada, in order to strike the 
 valleys leading to San Francisco. 
 
 On the broad desert last mentioned, we found water in its 
 very centre in two places by digging. Sluices or basins are 
 
FOR A RAILWAY. 573 
 
 known to exist in several places, which are filled with water at 
 times, by the overflows of the Colorado. In these, by sinking 
 wells, a plentiful supply of water can doubtless be procured. 
 
 Should the route of which I am speaking be selected for 
 a railway, supplies could be furnished at several places on the 
 line after leaving the settled portions of Texas. New Mexico 
 and the valley of the Kio Grande would furnish cattle, sheep, 
 mules, flour, and corn. The valley of the Casas Grancles in 
 Chihuahua, is one of the finest wheat and corn districts in the 
 country, and Sonora could furnish an abundance of cattle, 
 wheat, corn, and beans. Supplies may also be taken to the 
 line of the road by the Gulf of California and the Colorado 
 River. The latter, although it has from four to five feet of 
 water near the junction when lowest, is somewhat obstructed 
 by sand-bars towards its mouth ; but I have no doubt that 
 steamers, with a light draught of water, may ascend, the 
 greater portion of the year, even for a distance a hundred miles 
 above Fort Yuma. The Gila can never be navigated except 
 in time of floods or high water, when fiat-bottomed boats 
 might possibly pass up to the Salinas, one hundred and eighty 
 miles above its mouth. Supplies might be sent, as is now 
 proposed, to Fort Yuma, by sailing vessels to the head of the 
 Gulf of California, and thence by a small steamer up the 
 Colorado. 
 
 I have spoken of desert, woodless plains on the line near 
 the parallel of 32°. It is proper to remark that any route 
 south of the parallel of 35°, must cross the great Llano 
 Estacado, east of the Rocky Mountains, which increases much 
 in width above the 32d parallel. I crossed it about 31° 30' 
 or from the head waters of the Concho to the Horse Head 
 Crossing on the Pecos, a distance of seventy miles, without 
 water ; but a degree further north, its width is more than 
 doubled. Then the region between the Pecos and the Rio 
 Grande is equally barren (so far as known), and must also be 
 crossed by any route south of the 35th parallel. 
 
574 ADAPTATION OF THE COUNTRY 
 
 So with the great California desert west of the Colorado ; 
 all routes south of the 36th parallel must cross this, even 
 though the Mohavi Eiver be followed, unless the explorations 
 now being made should discover some valley or stream not yet 
 known. 
 
 Some observations are necessary respecting timber and 
 other materials requisite for the construction of a railway. 
 Forests and timbered lands extend from the basin of the Mis- 
 sissippi through eastern Texas, and on the slopes leading to 
 the table-land, where they are limited to the margin of the 
 streams. The next are found in the Guadalupe range of 
 mountains, as well as in defiles leading to it, or following a more 
 northerly line, in the Sacramento range. Both pine and oak 
 exist here in abundance. Next, we have the open plains to 
 the Organ Mountains, a chain running north and south about 
 fifteen miles east of the Eio Grande. Here both oak and pine 
 timber are found. Proceeding west across the Eio Grande, the 
 supply of timber must be obtained from the Eocky Mountains in 
 the vicinity of the Copper Mines (FortWebster). Beyond this, 
 north of the 32d parallel, there are no elevated mountains, and 
 hence no pines. The mountain defiles are filled with oaks of a 
 small size, and the margin of arroyos and streams with cotton- 
 woods. In the valley of the Santa Cruz, between Tubac and San- 
 ta Cruz, are very considerable forests of mezquit, the best mate- 
 rial for rail-ties that can be found. Next to this is the valley 
 of the Gila, which is only wooded at intervals with cotton- 
 woods and mezquit. For portions of the distance, the use of 
 stone for sleepers or ties, would no doubt be advisable. This 
 material exists in most of the mountains ; and occasionally iso- 
 lated rocky masses, or "buttes," rise up suddenly from the 
 plain. 
 
 I have suggested to civil engineers the use of the roots of 
 the mezquit for sleepers. These roots, even when mere shrubs, 
 are as solid and compact as lignum vitas, and sometimes con- 
 tain as much wood as a tree of twenty-five feet in height. If 
 
FOR A RAILWAY. 575 
 
 these could be smoothed at the surface and inserted firmly in 
 the ground, they would endure longer than any material ever 
 used for the purpose, except stone ; and the desert regions 
 where there is no timber, would furnish an abundant supply of 
 these roots. The experiment is worth trying. 
 
 With regard to water, there are certain indications, even in 
 the most desert regions, by which experienced travellers gener- 
 ally find it by digging. It may be found, too, in every moun- 
 tain range, and in great depressions on the plains by digging 
 or boring. An examination of the map, or of this narrative, 
 will show what running streams or springs exist, from which to 
 obtain a supply. 
 
 From these brief remarks, it will be seen that the advan- 
 tages of the southern route for a railway, are an open and 
 remarkably level country from the Mississippi to the Sierra 
 Nevada of California — a summit level a thousand feet less than 
 that of the other routes (so far as known) — entire freedom from 
 snows — and convenience in obtaining supplies. The disad- 
 vantages are a deficiency of timber, water, and food for animals; 
 and the want of tillable lands for settlements and farms. 
 
576 INTRODUCTION OF CAMELS. 
 
 INTRODUCTION OF CAMELS. 
 
 Remarks on the Introduction of Camels as a means of Transportation on the 
 Prairies and Deserts of the Interior. 
 
 In traversing the broad plains and deserts of the interior of the 
 continent, the subject of using camels as a means of transpor- 
 tation oftened occurred to me ; and on my return, I learned 
 that the subject of introducing them had been discussed in the 
 newspapers, and that a resolution had been offered in Con- 
 gress, asking for an appropriation to test the experiment. 
 
 A memoir on the subject, at considerable length, written 
 with much ability, and embracing a vast number of curious, 
 interesting, and important facts, by George R. Grliddon, Esq., 
 was laid before the Committee on Military Affairs of the Sen- 
 ate. This committee asked for an appropriation to enable the 
 Secretary of War to import thirty camels and twenty drome- 
 daries of various breeds, together with ten Arabs, familiar 
 with their habits, whose services might be retained for two years. 
 The plan proposed was to send an efficient agent to Egypt, 
 who was to proceed to the interior of the country, as far as 
 Nubia, and there procure the finest specimens of the best breeds ; 
 for the camel, like the horse and the ox, presents many varie- 
 ties. On the African coast these animals are found in great 
 numbers ; but they are said to be inferior to those of the in- 
 terior. If the experiment is to be fairly tested, and made a 
 Government undertaking, of course the very best breeds, both 
 from Africa and Asia, should be obtained 
 
INTRODUCTION OF CAMELS. 577 
 
 There is, perhaps, no gentleman in the United States 
 whose opinion on this subject is entitled to so much weight as 
 that of Mr. Gliddon, who was a resident in the Levant for 
 twenty-three years, eight of them as United States Consul at 
 Cairo, and who grew up with the camel and the Arab. His 
 early days were connected with Oriental life, traversing at 
 various times the deserts of Arabia and northern Africa. Mr. 
 Gliddon, knowing the interest I felt in this subject, and that 
 I had had some experience in my various journeys across the 
 deserts and plains of the interior of our continent, has kindly 
 placed in my hands the results of his inquiries into the history 
 of tie camel, and of its introduction into various parts of Asia 
 and Africa, from which he has permitted me to make such ex- 
 tracts as I deemed suitable, for a brief paper like the present. 
 
 From my experience of nearly three years with horses, 
 mules, asses, and oxen, and with wagons, carts, and packs, I 
 do not hesitate to hazard the opinion, that the introduction of 
 camels and dromedaries would prove an immense benefit to 
 our present means of transportation, that they would be a 
 great saving to animal life, and would present facilities for 
 crossing our broad deserts and prairies not possessed by any 
 other domestic animals now in use. 
 
 Many have imagined that the camel, being indigenous to 
 certain parts of Africa and Asia, would not thrive in America ; 
 but from the climate, and the food upon which he would be 
 compelled to live in the districts where he would be required 
 to labor, I doubt not his habits will be found to be as well 
 adapted to them, as to one half, or two thirds, of the region 
 where he now thrives. Less than four centuries have passed 
 since the introduction of the horse, ox, ass, mule, goat, sheep, 
 pig, clog, etc., into America, and they now exist in myriads 
 from the shores of the Arctic Sea to Cape Horn. Like man, 
 they seem to adapt themselves to every clime ; nature modify- 
 ing them to the heat or cold, to the arid plains or the marshy 
 lands, where they become domiciled. The camel is as strict- 
 vol. ii. — 37 
 
578 INTRODUCTION OF CAMELS. 
 
 ly a domestic animal as the horse, his existence in a wild 
 state being now doubtful ;* and there is no reason why he may 
 not as well adapt himself to our deserts and prairies as to the 
 steppes of Tartary or the Sahara of Africa. 
 
 On the forty species of animals reduced at this day to a 
 state of domestication, Greoffroy Saint Hilaire, a distinguished 
 French naturalist, remarks that " of these thirty-five are now 
 cosmopolitan, as the horse, dog, ox, pig, sheep, and goat. The 
 others have remained in the region of their origin, as the 
 lama and the alpaca on the plateau of Bolivia and Peru, or 
 have been transplanted only to those countries which most ap- 
 proximate to their birth-place in climatic conditions, as* the 
 Tongusian reindeer at St. Petersburg. Out of the thirty-five 
 domestic species possessed by Europe, thirty-one originated in 
 Central Asia, Europe, and Northern Africa. Only four spe- 
 cies have been contributed by the two Americas, Central and 
 Southern Africa, Australia, and Polynesia; although these 
 portions of our globe contain the greater number of zoological 
 types. In consequence, the great majority of domestic ani- 
 mals in Europe are of exotic origin, and hardly any are deriv- 
 ed from countries colder than France ; on the contrary almost 
 all were primitively inhabitants of warmer climates/'f 
 
 Widely as the camel, or "shijj of the desert," as it is call- 
 ed in the poetic language of the East, is now dispersed over all 
 parts of Asia and of Central and Northern Africa, there is histo- 
 rical evidence to show that there was a period when he was a 
 
 * Humboldt quotes Chinese and Turkish authors who affirm that the wild 
 camel, as well as wild horses and asses, is still to be found in Eastern Turkis- 
 tan and in the countries north of China. Cuvier believes that, if such is the 
 case, they have merely become wild after their owners had given them their 
 liberty. In the interior of Sonora are thousands of wild cattle which are 
 fiercer than the buffalo. The wild horses, or mustangs, of Texas and Northern 
 Mexico are also known. But all these are the offspring of domesticated 
 animals. 
 
 f La domestication du Llama, etc. Projet d'une Menagerie Nationale d 1 Ac- 
 climation. 
 
INTRODUCTION OF CAMELS. 579 
 
 stranger, even in Africa, and when his sphere in Asia was com- 
 paratively limited.* Now, his geographical diffusion is equal to 
 
 * "The camel," says Humboldt, "was entirely unknown to the cultivated 
 people of Carthage, through all the centuries of their flourishing existence, 
 until the destruction of the city. It -was first brought into use for the armies 
 by the Marusians, in Western Lybia, in the time of the Cresars ; perhaps in 
 consequence of its employment in commercial undertakings by the Ptolemies, 
 in the valley of the Nile. The Guanches inhabiting the Canary Islands, -who 
 were probably related to the Berber race, were not acquainted with the camel 
 before the fifteenth century, when it was introduced by Norman conquerors 
 and settlers. In the probably very limited communication of the Guanches 
 with the coast of Africa, the smallness of their boats must necessarily have im- 
 peded the transport of large animals. The true Berber race, which was diffused 
 throughout the interior of Northern Africa, is probably indebted to the use of 
 the camel, throughout the Lybian desert and its oases, not onty for the advan- 
 tages of internal communication, but also for its escape from complete annihi- 
 lation and for the maintenance of its national existence to this day. The use 
 of the camel continued, on the other hand, to be unknown to the negro races ; 
 and it was only in company with the conquering expeditions and proselyting 
 missions of the Bedouins through the whole of Northern Africa, that the useful 
 animal of the Nedschd, of the Nabatheans, and of all the districts occupied by 
 the Aramean races, spread here, as elsewhere, to the westward. The Goths 
 brought the camels as early as the fourth century to the Lower Istros (the Dan- 
 ube), and the Ghaznevides transported them in much larger numbers to India 
 as far as the banks of the Ganges.* 
 
 Other authorities agree as to the comparatively recent introduction of the 
 camel and dromedary into Northern Africa. Baron Humboldt distinguishes 
 two epochs in their distribution there, "the first under the Ptolemies, which 
 operated, through Cyrene, on the whole of the north-west coast, and the second 
 under the Mohammedan epoch of the conquering Arabs ; " f while the dromeda- 
 ry, now so much in use, was only propagated in the region of Algiers as late as 
 the middle of the sixteenth century.:}: 
 
 A number of curious facts have been brought- 1 together by Mr. Gliddon, to 
 show that the camel was not used in the earliest Egyptian times ; the most sat- 
 isfactory evidence of which is, that it does not appear on any of the Pharaonic 
 monuments: a conclusion to which Champollion-Figeac had arrived. "But 
 one thing worthy of remark," says that distinguished archaeologist, " is that 
 there is not found on any monument the figure or mention of the camel ; a 
 native of Arabia. This valuable animal appears to have been unknown to the 
 ancient Egyptians for service." § 
 
 * Karl Kilter, Asien, vol. viii., Part 1, p. 610, 757. + Views of Nature, Lond. ed. p. 52. 
 
 X Bodickon, Etudes sur VAlgerie et VAfrique, p. 62. § Egypte Ancienne, p. 196. 
 
580 INTRODUCTION OF CAMELS. 
 
 that of most other domesticated animals. " He has followed," 
 says Mr. Grliddon, " the radiations of war, commerce, and emi- 
 
 In the journeys made by the patriarchs of the Scriptures into Egypt they 
 were accompanied by camels ; these animals were also employed in bearing 
 the productions of Arabia to that country, but they were always the property 
 of aliens, and their residence there was but temporary. So " during the stay 
 of the Hebrews in the land of Goshen, no allusion is made to camels, save in 
 Exodus, ix. 3, whether owned by themselves or by their Egyptian rulers. On 
 the contrary, the especial mention of asses as the animals on which Jacob's sons 
 carried their sacks of corn over the desert of the Isthmus of Suez* — of wagons 
 furnished by the Egyptians to bring up Jacob from Canaan f — of cattle, horses, 
 flocks, and asses, as the only zoological property the famishing Egyptians could 
 give in exchange for bread,:): — combined with the notable fact that, in the ac- 
 count of the Mosaic exodus, horses attached to chariots and cattle are the only 
 quadrupeds enumerated ; — ail these accumulated evidences, I repeat, amply 
 confirm hieroglyphical and historical negatives of the naturalization of camels 
 in Egypt, at any time prior to the Persian invasion, B. C. 525." (Gliddo?i's 
 Memoir, MS.) 
 
 One of the most elaborate treatises on the geographical distribution of the 
 camel in the Old World, is that of the distinguished geographer and ethnologist 
 Karl Ritter, who in his great work has devoted 150 pages to the history of this 
 quadruped. I shall merely quote the results of his investigations to show the wide 
 extent of the present diffusion of the camel. These natural limits are established 
 as follows : — "Towards eastern and south-eastern Asia, by the tropical, sultry, 
 maritime, Indian, and Farther Indian climate of the Elephant-land and fluvial 
 zone of the Cocoa-forests ; — towards the north on the Upper Jenesei, Baikal, 
 and Irtysh, by the Reindeer-zone of the sub-polar climate of 58° to 56° North 
 Latitude ; — beyond the flat steppe-lands of the nomadic tribes, by agriculture 
 upon the European culture-ground, with the fixed dwellings of its inhabitants. 
 In the Maghreb, or northern half of the African continent, the Lybian camel- 
 zone, towards the north (from the Erythrsean East to the Atlantic West), is 
 exhibited without limit, as far as the Berber races, as well as Moors and Bedou- 
 ins, inhabit the Sahara and the Oases. But south of that it is limited by the 
 zone of tropical rains, or the wet season, along the valleys of the Senegal, the 
 Niger system, and the Bahr el-Abiad. Here the expanse of sand and gravel 
 changes into a luxuriant, thickly-wooded, fruit-bearing soil, subject to inunda- 
 tion, before which the organization of this desert-animal shrinks back, and 
 where begins the belt of the central Negro States of Soudan, or the Land of the 
 Blacks, with whom asses and bullocks, as universal beasts of transport, thrive, 
 being better suited to the climate, or where the negro has become his own 
 bearer of burdens." § 
 
 * Genesis, xlii. 27 ; xliii. 18, 24. t Id. xlv. 21, 2T ; and xlvi. 5. J Id. xlyii. 17. 
 
 § Karl Hitter, Asien. 
 
INTRODUCTION OF CAMELS. 581 
 
 gration over a stupendous segment of the earth's superficies," 
 stretching across the whole of Asia, and extending as far north 
 as the 56th parallel of latitude. Amid the defiles of the Cau- 
 casus, the Himalaya, and the Kuenleen ; over the black plateau 
 of Upper Asia, and the scorching plains of Hindostan ; skirt- 
 ing the shores of the Indian Ocean, the Yellow, the Caspian, 
 and the Black sgas, "winter or. summer, he resignedly plods 
 his weary way," burdened with whatever load his master places 
 on his back. He is much used in eastern Europe ; and in 
 Africa, across its entire breadth, from the shores of the Medi- 
 terranean to the region of the tropical rains. 
 
 Taking a portion of the North American Continent cor- 
 responding with the camel zone of the old world, the most 
 extreme northern limits of the United States would be conge- 
 nial to him. But we should not require his services north of 
 Missouri, or about the 40th parallel. From thence, southward 
 to the Gi-ulf of Mexico, but particularly in Texas, the climate 
 would be most congenial to him. The high table-lands of 
 Texas, New Mexico, Utah, Sonora, Chihuahua, Durango, and 
 portions of Central Mexico, are equally adapted to him. The 
 entire route from the Mississippi to California, particularly 
 that south of Santa Fe by the Gila, where there are no moun- 
 tains to cross ; and also, the great highway over the table-lands 
 of Mexico, are well adapted to his habits. But he would be 
 most useful on those long jornadas and deserts where there is 
 either no water, or where it is so brackish that mules and horses 
 will not drink it. 
 
 There are peculiarities in the arid plains and deserts of 
 North America which seem to fit them for the habits of the 
 camel. His favorite food in Africa is beans and chopped 
 straw. Now, it is a well known fact, that however barren our 
 deserts, they abound in mezquit bushes or chapporal, which 
 shrub bears a most nutricious bean. Whether this plant 
 attains a height of three feet on the desert or twenty in the 
 bottom-lands, it is equally prolific. Mules and cattle feed on 
 
582 INTRODUCTION OF CAMELS. 
 
 them when they cannot get grass or corn ; yet they never 
 thrive on them, but, on the contrary, lose flesh. Other pecu- 
 liarities are the salines and salt lakes, which abound on the 
 arid plains throughout the table-lands, as well as on the slopes 
 towards both oceans. When driven to great extremities, 
 mules will sometimes drink this salt or brackish water ; but I 
 have driven them fifty or sixty miles without water, yet on 
 reaching a saline not one in ten would touch it. To camels 
 brackish water is as acceptable as if from the purest foun- 
 tains. 
 
 " Frugal in appetite/' says Mr. Gliddon, " the camel's epi- 
 curism never rises above a sufficiency of split beans and chop- 
 ped straw ; but while in the vernal season he relishes clover 
 and grasses, his massive grinders, cutting like cold chisels, 
 masticate alike the dryest stalks or the toughest thorns ; and 
 his ' cast-iron ' stomach digests and converts into nutriment 
 stems otherwise so devoid of succulence, that the camel sub- 
 sists where every other gramnivore must starve. When neces- 
 sary, he can go five days without water." 
 
 With us, the food we shall have to give them will be vari- 
 ous kinds of grasses, in particular those popularly known as 
 mezquit, the grama, and the buffalo grass, which grow on the 
 prairies, the elevated table-lands, and the mountains. For 
 more solid food we have the Mexican frijoles and maize, with 
 other cereals. On the deserts there are plants which mules 
 will not touch, which the camel would doubtless feed upon. 
 
 With regard to the capacities of camels for carrying bur- 
 dens all depends upon the breed. " Six hundred pounds," 
 says Mr. Gliddon, " is a fair estimate for the best Arabian 
 well fed animal, with which he will travel twenty miles a day. 
 The Bactrian camel, which is less capable of enduring heat, 
 will carry ordinarily eight hundred pounds. Dromedaries, 
 which are not employed for carrying burdens, but for riding, 
 can travel freely fifty or sixty miles every twenty-four hours 
 (including eight to twelve hours for rest and stoppage), and 
 
INTRODUCTION OF CAMELS. 583 
 
 this too with a rider estimated to weigh one hundred and 
 seventy-five pounds and one hundred pounds weight of saddle, 
 baggage, etc. His average gait is five miles an hour, at which 
 he will continue for weeks. On an emergency he may be 
 pushed, with this same weight, double the distance ; but then 
 the jolting is increased with the speed of, the animal, and 
 could only be borne by experienced riders." Colonel Shiel, an 
 experienced British officer, long versed in military service in 
 Hindostan, says, the dromedary " is able to travel in all situa- 
 tions : mountains and plains, blazing sun, frost and snow, 
 seem alike to him."* 
 
 It is proper to state that in hot countries the camel's hair 
 is clipped close, while in the cold it is permitted to grow, 
 according to the temperature he is exposed to, when it attains 
 a length of six inches. Hence he can live in the region of the 
 reindeer as well as in that of the lion. 
 
 This animal is therefore used exclusively, from the Nile to 
 the Granges, for the purpose of war and expresses, or duties 
 requiring expedition ; and instances are on record where war 
 parties of Bedouin Arabs, lightly equipped, with a small supply 
 of provisions, have been known to traverse a space of three 
 hundred miles in four days.f 
 
 I have devoted more space to this subject than I intended ; 
 
 * Journey through Kurdistan. — Jour. Royal Geog. Soc, vol. viii. p. 97. 
 
 \ " The female camel yields an abundance of excellent milk, which, mixed 
 with meal, is the standard dish of Bedouin economy ; when acidulated, it con- 
 stitutes the favorite dish of the Turkoman ; when fermented, an intoxicating 
 drink called 'kermis' by the Tartars. 
 
 "The hair is a well known article of commerce, out of which nomadic tribes 
 manufacture clothing and tents, as well as all the halters, cords, saddle-bags, 
 and ornamental trappings for the camel himself. The flesh of a young camel 
 is esteemed a luxury, and at every age a wholesome diet. It is cut into strips 
 and dried in the same manner as beef is preserved in Mexico. The dung is used 
 for fuel, in the same manner as the buffalo dung by our prairie travellers. The 
 entrails and minor sinews are adapted to thongs, bow-strings, fastenings, etc., 
 while the hide is sold for the same purpose as we use the hide of beef-cattle and 
 buffaloes, such as shoes, sandals, belts, harness, saddles, etc." — Gliddori's Mem. MS. 
 
584 INTRODUCTION OF CAMELS. 
 
 but as it is little known, and is now being brought before the 
 country, I have felt justified in extending these remarks. In 
 conclusion, to give an idea of the number of animals used by the 
 government for transportation, I quote from the official report 
 of the Quarter-master General made in 1851. By this it ap- 
 pears that more than ten thousand horses, mules, and oxen were 
 constantly required for transportation, and for mounting guides, 
 spies, escorts, and troops. At the same time, when the army 
 was increased about fifty per cent., the cost of transportation 
 reached two million dollars, an increase of one thousand five 
 hundred per cent. If we go back to the year 1844, the cost 
 of transportation was about one hundred and twenty thousand 
 dollars, and in seven years had increased to two millions . 
 
APPENDICES. 
 
APPENDICES. 
 
 A. 
 
 Article V. of the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, relating to the 
 Boundary between the United States and Mexico. 
 
 "The boundary line between the two Republics shall commence in 
 the Gulf of Mexico, three leagues from land, opposite the mouth of 
 the Rio Grande, otherwise called Rio Bravo del Norte, or opposite the 
 mouth of its deepest branch, if it should have more than one branch 
 emptying directly into the sea ; from thence up the middle of that river, 
 following the deepest channel, where it has more than one, to the point 
 where it strikes the southern boundary of New Mexico ; thence west- 
 wardly along the whole southern boundary of New Mexico (which runs 
 north of the town called Paso) to its western termination ; thence north- 
 ward, along the western line of New Mexico, until it intersects the first 
 branch of the river Gila (or if it should not intersect any branch of 
 that river, then to the point on the said line nearest to such branch, and 
 thence in a direct line to the same) ; thence down the middle of the 
 said branch and of the said river, until it empties into the Rio Colorado, 
 thence across the Rio Colorado, following the division line between 
 Upper and Lower California, to the Pacific Ocean. 
 
 " The southern and western limits of New Mexico, mentioned in 
 this article, are those laid down in the map entitled, ' Map of the United 
 Mexican States, as organized and defined by various Acts of the Congress 
 of said Republic, and constructed according to the best Authorities. 
 Revised edition. Published in New York, in 1847, by J. Disturnell.' — 
 Of which map a copy is added to this treaty, bearing the signatures and 
 seals of the undersigned plenipotentiaries. And in order to preclude all 
 difficulty in tracing upon the ground the limit separating Upper from 
 Lower California, it is agreed that the said limit shall consist of a 
 
588 APPENDICES. 
 
 straight line drawn from the middle of the Rio Gila, where it unites 
 with the Colorado, to a point on the coast of the Pacific Ocean, distant 
 one marine league due south of the southernmost point of the port of 
 San Diego, according to the plan of said port made in the year 1782 
 by Don Juan Pantoja, second sailing-master of the Spanish fleet, and 
 published at Madrid in the year 1802, in the Atlas to the Voyage of the 
 schooners Sutil and Mexicana, of which plan a copy is hereunto added, 
 signed and sealed by the respective plenipotentiaries. 
 
 " In order to designate the boundary line with due precision, upon 
 authoritative maps, and to establish upon the ground land-marks which 
 shall show the limits of both Republics, as described in the present arti- 
 cle, the two governments shall each appoint a commissioner and a sur- 
 veyor, who, before the expiration of one year from the date of the ex- 
 change of ratifications of this treaty, shall meet at the port of San Diego, 
 and proceed to run and mark the said boundary in its whole course to 
 the mouth of the Rio Bravo del Norte. They shall keep journals, and 
 make out plans of their operations ; and the result agreed upon by them 
 shall be deemed a part of this treaty, and shall have the same force as if 
 it were inserted therein. The governments will amicably agree regard- 
 ing what may be necessary to these persons, and also as to their respec- 
 tive escorts, should such be necessary. 
 
 " The boundary line established by this article shall be religiously 
 respected by each of the two Republics ; and no change shall ever be 
 made therein, except by the express and free consent of both nations, 
 lawfully given by the general government of each, in conformity with 
 its own constitution. 
 
 B. 
 
 Official Instructions from the Department of the Interior to 
 John R. Baktlett, Commissioner on the part of the 
 United States, for running and marking the Boundary 
 line between the United States and the Republic of Mexico. 
 
 Department of the Interior, 
 
 August 1, 1850. 
 Sir : In a letter from the Department, bearing date of June 19, 
 1850, you were informed that you had been appointed Commissioner 
 
APPENDICES. 589 
 
 on the part of the United States for running and marking the boundary 
 line between the United States and the Republic of Mexico, under the 
 fifth article of the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo. 
 
 By the documents in this department, copies of which have been 
 placed in your possession, or to which you have had access, you 
 will perceive that that portion of the boundary between the junction 
 of the Gila with the Colorado and the Pacific Ocean has already been 
 run by your predecessor. By the same documents it also appears that 
 the Joint Commission in February last mutually agreed to suspend their 
 operations, and meet on the first day of Nevember next, at El Paso, on 
 the Rio Grande, and resume their operations westward from that point. 
 
 You will, therefore, in conformity with that agreement, proceed, with 
 the Commission appointed to perform the duties of running the boun- 
 dary mentioned, to El Paso, by the nearest and most convenient route, 
 so as to reach there by the first of November. 
 
 As the organization of the Commission on the part of the United 
 States has been made with a view to other objects beyond that of run- 
 ning the boundary, it becomes necessary to call your 'attention to the 
 duties required. 
 
 By the sixth article of the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, provision 
 is made for the collection of information relative to the construction of 
 a " road, canal, or railway, which shall, in whole or in part, run upon the 
 river Gila, or upon its right or left bank, within the space of a marine 
 league from either margin of that river." And that " should it be found 
 practicable and advantageous to construct such a road, the governments 
 of both Republics will form an agreement regarding its construction, in 
 order that it may serve equally for the use and advantage of both 
 countries." 
 
 As the examinations to be made, and the information to be collect- 
 ed, agreeably to this article, are of very great importance, you will make 
 such an organization of parties, and assign to them such duties, as will 
 be productive of the desired result. 
 
 The boundary line where you will commence your labors begins at 
 the a point where the Rio Grande strikes the southern boundary of New 
 Mexico ; then westward, along the whole southern boundary of New 
 Mexico (which runs north of the town called Paso) to its western termi- 
 nation ; thence northward, along the western line of New Mexico, until 
 it intersects the first branch of the river Gila (or if it should not intersect 
 
590 APPENDICES. 
 
 any branch of that river, then to the point on the said line nearest to 
 such branch, and then in a direct line to the same "). 
 
 This portion of the line can only be ascertained by examinations and 
 surveys upon the ground. You will, however, receive important aid in 
 the determination of this line, as the treaty expressly declares that " the 
 southern and western limits of New Mexico, mentioned in this article, 
 are those laid down on the maps of the United Mexican States, published 
 at New York in 1847, by J. Disturnell," a certified copy of which was 
 appended to the treaty, bearing the signatures and seals of the plenipo- 
 tentiaries. You are furnished with a certified copy of this map. 
 
 The remainder of the boundary runs along the middle of the River 
 Gila and the Rio Grande ; of the formei*, from the point where the west- 
 ern line of New Mexico intersects it to its junction with the Colorado ; 
 and the latter, from the point intersected by the southern line of New 
 Mexico near El Paso, to its mouth. 
 
 As the organization of the Commission under your charge has been 
 made for the purpose of collecting information relative to the country 
 contiguous to the boundary line, in addition to the running of that line, 
 it is desirable that you should avail yourself of every opportunity afford- 
 ed by your passage through the unexplored regions of Texas, New Mexi- 
 co, and California, to acquire information as to its geography, national 
 history, &c, when it can be obtained without retarding the progress of 
 the boundary survey. You are, therefore, at liberty to send out explor- 
 ing parties, when not otherwise employed on the survey of the line, to 
 examine the country north of the Gila, as well as on either side of the 
 Rio Grande, for the above and kindred purposes. 
 
 It is stated, on the authority of persons who have traversed the coun- 
 try near the river Gila, that during a considerable portion of the summer 
 there is neither grass nor water to be obtained. Should the Commis- 
 sion be in this region at this season, it may be compelled to suspend its 
 operations. In such an event, your party may be usefully employed in 
 geographical and scientific explorations in the regions before alluded to. 
 
 The collection of information relative to the precious metals, quick- 
 silver, and the various minerals, ores, and other substances, useful in the 
 arts, is very desirable. In reference to the existence and localities of 
 these, as well as the locations of mines formerly worked by the early set- 
 tlers in California and New Mexico, and since abandoned, owing to the 
 incursions of the Indians, or other causes, you will do all in your power 
 
APPENDICES. 591 
 
 to acquire information as far as you may be able, without impeding the 
 main objects of the Commission. 
 
 After you have traced the boundary to the junction of the Gila with 
 the Colorado, you will be compelled to retrace your steps to El Paso. 
 Before doing this, as you will possess many facilities for the purpose, 
 you are at liberty to proceed up the Colorado River, and make such ex- 
 plorations as your time and facilities will permit, provided the boundary 
 survey is not arrested in so doing. 
 
 The discovery of more practicable routes through California for emi- 
 grants, is desirable. The present routes, by way of the Great Salt Lake 
 and the River Gila, are attended with many difficulties. If a portion of 
 the Commission can be spared, with an adequate escort, to seek such 
 routes, while it is in their vicinity, you are at liberty to enq:>loy them. 
 
 As it is indispensable that each government should be furnished with 
 a full and circumstantial record of the proceedings of the Commissioners, 
 they will doubtless order such to be kept in duplicate. This duty will 
 devolve upon the clerks or secretaries appointed on both sides, who will 
 be responsible for the accuracy of such records, and for their safe deliv- 
 ery, properly certified, to the respective governments, at the expiration of 
 the Commission. 
 
 As soon as the boundary shall have been ascertained and marked, 
 you will cause a true and accurate map to be made of the country 
 through which it passes, in its entire extent. A duplicate copy of said 
 map, certified by the commissioners and surveyors on both sides, should 
 accompany the records of the proceedings of the Commission. 
 
 The joint report of declaration by the commissioners " of the final 
 result agreed upon by them," under the fifth article of the treaty, will 
 also be transmitted to the department, to be filed with the journal or 
 record of their proceedings and the maps. 
 
 Your salary as commissioner, which has been fixed by Congress, at 
 three thousand dollars, will commence on the fourteenth day of June 
 1850, the day of your appointment by the President, when you were 
 ordered to report yourself for duty to this department. Under the head 
 of contingent expenses of the Commission, will be embraced your rea- 
 sonable personal and travelling expenses while in service, and those of 
 the principal surveyor, chief astronomer, and other officers of the topo- 
 graphical engineers and navy who may be detailed to assist you in the 
 field, or otherwise ; the pay and subsistence of assistant surveyors and 
 
592 APPENDICES. 
 
 draughtsmen, chain-carriers, mechanics, laborers, cooks, servants, and 
 guides, and the incidental and necessary expenses of exploring parties ; 
 the pay and subsistence of secretaries, surgeon, quarter-master, commis- 
 sary, assistants, and clerks ; the purchase of an outfit, including horses, 
 mules, tents, and camp-equipage, arms and ammunition, books and 
 stationery, instruments, medical stores, boats, mechanics' tools, wagons, 
 and vehicles for the transportation of the Commission, and its stores by 
 sea or otherwise ; the purchase of articles for presents to, or traffic with, 
 the Indians, clothing for the men (to be repaid by them) ; and the pur- 
 chase and fixing of monuments to mark the boundary line. Of all these 
 expenses you will keep a regular account, which, together with the neces- 
 sary vouchers, you will render and transmit quarterly to the Fifth Au- 
 ditor of the Treasury, for settlement. And to meet the same, as likewise 
 the payment of the salaries, you will from time to time, as occasion may 
 require, draw upon the Department, taking care not to exceed in the 
 amount drawn at any one time the sum which will be required to meet 
 the necessary and actual expenses of the Commission. You will be 
 charged exclusively with the disbursement of the money appropriated to 
 pay the expense of the Commission. 
 
 As soon as the Commission is filled, you will transmit to this Depart- 
 ment a list containing the names of the several persons composing it, 
 the nature of the duties assigned to each individual, and the compensa- 
 tion allowed to them respectively ; and will also, from time to time, in- 
 form the Secretary of the Interior of any change which you may by 
 circumstances be induced to make in its organization. 
 
 In organizing for duty, you are referred, for any information which 
 you may deem necessary, to Andrew B. Gray, Esq. who has been ap- 
 pointed Surveyor under the treaty, and to Brevet Lieut. Colonel John 
 McClellan, of the Topographical Engineers, whom the President has desig- 
 nated as " Chief Astronomer and Head of the Topographical Scientific 
 Corps of the Commission." 
 
 Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 
 
 D. C. GODDARD, 
 Secretary ad Interim. 
 John R. Bartlett, Esq., 
 Commissioner on the part of the United States, to 
 run and mark the Boundary between, the United 
 States and Mexico. 
 
APPENDICES. 593 
 
 Additional Instructions from, the Hon. Alex. H. H. Stuart, 
 Secretary of the Interior, explanatory of the foregoing. 
 
 Department of the Interior, 
 
 November 4, 1851. 
 
 Sir : As some misunderstanding has arisen with regard to the instruc- 
 tions communicated in my letter of the 23d of October, 1850, I deem it 
 proper to add such explanations and modifications as the circumstances 
 seem to demand ; and as Brevet Major Wm. H. Emory, the Chief As- 
 tronomer, has been appointed by the President the Surveyor, under the 
 treaty, to run and mark the boundary line between the United States 
 and Mexico, in place of A. B. Gray, Esq., some further explanations re- 
 specting his position and duties are necessary. The officers and mem- 
 bers of the scientific corps immediately connected with the survey of the 
 boundary line shall be placed under the immediate orders of the sur- 
 veyor. Any lines agreed upon by the Joint Commission as the lines of 
 boundary, shall be run and astronomically determined by the surveyor. 
 He will have charge and direction of all the surveys of the boundary 
 line, and shall determine the Initial and intermediate points of the sur- 
 vey by astronomical means, acting under your direction. This corps 
 shall consist of such number of assistants as you, upon advising with 
 him, may deem absolutely necessary. He shall issue his instructions in 
 writing, and shall preserve a copy of them in a book kept for that pur- 
 pose. He shall require monthly reports from the heads of parties, and 
 shall place them before you in a condensed form. He shall have charge 
 of the surveying and astronomical instruments ; and for their safe keep- 
 ing, will be responsible to you. He shall be allowed a clerk, whose 
 salary shall not exceed that of a sub-assistant. He shall be responsible 
 to you, and through you to this department, for as rapid a prosecution 
 of the surveys, and for all the astronomy connected with them, as may 
 be consistent with their accuracy ; and will be held accountable for all 
 the quarter-master's stores, camp and garrison equipage, placed at his 
 disposal. . 
 
 Should any doubts arise between yourself and the Mexican Commis- 
 sion, the surveyor shall be required to make such surveys and maps as 
 may tend to elucidate the point or line in dispute. 
 
 Should the surveyor at any time differ with your views on any 
 vol. ii. — 38 
 
594 APPENDICES. 
 
 question connected with the survey, &c, he will defer to your opinion 
 until the case is submitted to, and decided by the department. 
 
 After the work in the field shall have been completed, the maps 
 shall be drawn, under the immediate supervision of the surveyor under 
 your control, on the scale suggested in the instructions to you under the 
 date of October 23, 1850. In the mean time, during an inclement sea- 
 son, when the field-work may necessarily be arrested, the first plotting 
 (or rough sheets) should be prosecuted. On the completion of the maps, 
 they shall be signed by the surveyor, previous to their being authenti- 
 cated by the commissioners. 
 
 No officer but yourself is allowed to draw for any moneys appropri- 
 ated for the Mexican Boundary service. The surveyor may draw his sa- 
 lary from this department or from you. All the scientific depart- 
 ments not directly connected with the surveys of the boundary line, are 
 placed under your immediate direction. The means appropriated by 
 Congress being very limited, it is incumbent upon this department to 
 order such reductions in the number of persons devoted to the purposes 
 of science as your discretion may deem least advantageous. You, as the 
 first officer of the Commission, will be held responsible to this depart- 
 ment for the proper administration of the great work confided to your 
 
 charge. 
 
 ******** 
 
 I am, &c. 
 
 ALEX. H. H. STUART, 
 
 Secretary. 
 
 To John R. Bartlett, Esq. 
 Commissioner, etc. etc. 
 
 c. 
 
 List of Members cf the United States and Mexican Boundary 
 Commission, as organized in Washington, August, 1850. 
 
 John R. Bartlett, Commissioner. 
 Andrew B. Gray, Principal Surveyor. 
 Thomas H. Webb, M. D., Secretary. 
 
APPENDICES. 595 
 
 Robert C. Murphy, Clerk and Assistant Secretary. 
 James Myer, Quarter-master. 
 J. C. Sheldon, Assistant Quarter-master. 
 George F. Bartlett, Commissary. 
 Henry Jacobs, Assistant Commissary. 
 John M. Bigelow, M.D., Surgeon. 
 John C. Cremony, Interpreter. 
 George Thurber, Botanist. 
 
 Theodore F. Moss, Geologist and Mining Engineer. 
 John Bull, First Assistant Surveyor. 
 J. H. Prioleau, do. do. 
 
 Joseph Moorehead, do. do. 
 
 M. T. W. Chandler, in charge of Magnetic and Meteorological De- 
 partment. 
 A. de Vaudricourt, Principal Draughtsman. 
 S. H. Kettlewell, Assistant, Astronomical Department. 
 Henry C. Force, do. do. 
 
 James Henning, Computer and do. 
 John O'Donoghue, do. do. 
 
 Hugh Campbell, do. do. 
 
 P. Crenion, do. do. 
 
 Assistants in the surveying, astronomical, and topographical division, 
 whose positions were fixed at El Paso, when the parties were organized 
 for field duty : 
 
 Thomas Thompson, Malcolm Seaton, 
 
 A. Von Steinwehr, William White, Jr., 
 
 Eugene Hesse, Frank Wheaton, 
 
 Edward Barry, Henry C. Cranston, 
 
 Alex. A. Camp, S. P. Sanford, 
 
 Geo. G. Garner, Thomas Walter Jones, 
 
 R A. Matthews, Charles A. Snowden, 
 
 James Steel, George L. Peirce, 
 
 William Bausman, E. A. Phillips, 
 
 Geo. M. Gordon, J. T. McDuffie, 
 
 R. L. Griffin, John B. Steuart, 
 
 J. E. Weems, J. P. Espy, Jr., 
 
 Joseph Hoban, George P. Ihrie, 
 
 C. N. Simms, Clement Young, 
 
596 APPENDICES. 
 
 Thomas Dunn, F. D. Keller, 
 
 James H. Houston, L. C. Houghton, 
 
 Raymond Nias, P. B. Mowry, 
 
 T. W. Tansill, W. B. Yerby, 
 
 James T. Scott, A. P. Wilbar. 
 
 From the corps of Topographical Engineers : 
 
 Brev. Lieut. Col. John McClellan, Chief Astronomer, and Head 
 
 of the Topographical Scientific Corps. 
 Capt. E. L. F. Hardcastle, Assistant do. 
 
 Lieut. A. W. Whipple, do. do. 
 
 Colonel McClellan was recalled in October following, and Brevet 
 Lieutenant Colonel J. D. Graham appointed in his place. The latter 
 was recalled in October, 1851, and Brevet Major W. H. Emory ap- 
 pointed to his place ; and soon after Mr. A. B. Gray, Principal Surveyor, 
 was recalled, when Major Emory was appointed Surveyor, and the office 
 of Chief Astronomer abolished. The Commission was greatly reduced 
 in the summer of 1851, at which time other changes were made. 
 
 The following gentlemen, who accompanied Colonel Graham, re- 
 ported themselves at the head quarters of the Commission, at the Cop- 
 per Mines, in July and August, 1851 : 
 
 Charles Radziminski, Principal Assistant Surveyor. 
 
 Lieut. A. E. Burnside, 3d Artillery, Quarter-master and Commis- 
 sary. 
 
 Lieut. W. F. Smith, Topographical Engineers, Assistant Astronomer. 
 
 Henry C. Pratt, Draughtsman and Artist. 
 
 John H. Clark, Zoologist and Assistant Computer. 
 
 Charles Wright, Botanist and do. 
 
 John Lawson, Clerk to Colonel Graham. 
 
 W. A. Taylor, Sub-Assistant in the Surveying Corps. 
 
 John J. Pratt, do. do. 
 
 Major Emory, on joining the Surveying party on the Rio Grande to 
 relieve Colonel Graham, was accompanied by the following officers, 
 to be added to those already detailed for that party : 
 
 Lieut. Michler, Topographical Engineers. 
 
 Arthur Schott, First Assistant Surveyor. 
 
 Edward Ingraham, Sub-Assistant do. 
 
 George C. Gardner, Clerk. 
 
APPENDICES. 597 
 
 D. 
 
 Official Report of the Survey of the River Gila, by Lieu- 
 tenant A. W. Whipple, of the Topographical Engineers, 
 dated San Diego, California, January 10th, 1852. 
 
 San Diego, California, 
 January 10th, 1852. 
 
 Col. : I have the honor to report my arrival at San Diego, with 
 the party of the Boundary Commission under my command. Nearly 
 the whole time since you left us upon the San Pedro, until our arrival 
 here, we have been upon a short allowance of provisions. 
 
 With fourteen and a half days' rations of flour, and without an 
 escort, we left St. Peter's Springs upon the Rio San Pedro, on the 3d of 
 October, 1851. We arrived at the desired points on the Gila, north- 
 east of Fort Graham, on the evening of the 9th. The transit instrument 
 was mounted the same night, and both limbs of the moon were observed 
 for longitude. The Topographical survey of the Gila, was commenced 
 at this point. My excellent assistants in this portion of the work, Henry 
 C. Force and Frank Wheaton, are worthy of great praise for their indus- 
 try and skill in the performance of their duties. I should be pleased to 
 have their names brought before the Department at Washington, and 
 their merits appreciated. 
 
 The survey was carried on without difficulty below the junction of 
 Rio San Francisco, as far as the entrance to the canon of the Pinal 
 Lleno mountains. Into this we forced our way, although Indians told 
 us that neither man nor beast could pass through. In some places by 
 wading, in others by climbing upon the sides of the canon, which rose 
 perpendicularly from five to fifteen hundred feet in height, the survey 
 progressed for eight or ten miles. The want of men and of provisions 
 prevented us from sending reconnoitering parties in advance. The train 
 passed over mountains rough and steep upon the north side of the river. 
 Having succeeded in reaching a gorge by which a mountain stream 
 leaps into the river, we were here compelled to abandon our wagon and 
 lead the pack-mules over steep mountains. The following extract from 
 the Meteorological Notes, will give an idea of our route. 
 
598 
 
 Bank River Gila 
 
 APPEN 
 , October 26, 
 
 DICES. 
 
 8 A.M. 
 
 Bar. 
 
 27,779 
 
 Canon Springs, 
 
 a 
 
 27, 
 
 S. Rise, 
 
 U 
 
 27,470 
 
 Iron Hill, 
 
 a 
 
 28, 
 
 6 A. M. 
 
 u 
 
 26,517 
 
 Summit Pass, 
 
 « 
 
 a 
 
 8J A. M. 
 
 <( 
 
 26,073 
 
 Cascade Grotto, 
 
 u 
 
 « 
 
 9£ A. M. 
 
 a 
 
 27,194 
 
 <( « 
 
 a 
 
 29, 
 
 7J A.M. 
 
 u 
 
 27,229 
 
 Penal Pass, 
 
 u 
 
 (( 
 
 l£ P. M. 
 
 u 
 
 25,790 
 
 Rio Gila, 
 
 November 1, 
 
 4£ P. M. 
 
 u 
 
 27,903 
 
 The Cascade Grotto is too wildly beautiful to pass unnoticed. De- 
 scending over twelve hundred feet in an hour, we plunged into an In- 
 dian garden, where were melons, maize, and beans, and to our surprise 
 a field of cotton. This fertile spot is an inclined plain, evidently formed 
 by deposit from a mineral spring, which gushes from the mountain, 
 irrigates the fields, and then follows a ravine, leaping from cliff to cliff, 
 in beautiful cascades, until it joins the Gila, which appears in view a 
 thousand feet below the garden. Passing beneath the first water-fall, 
 one enters a charming stalactite cave, consisting of two apartments, 
 richly decorated. At the foot of the precipice are flowering shrubs and 
 matted vines, whose red flowers gaily contrast with the surrounding ver- 
 dure. 
 
 This singular formation is filled with petrifactions. In one place 
 was seen the trunk of a large cotton-wood tree completely petrified, and 
 cropping out from a bed of coarse lime-stone. A chip showed distinctly 
 bark and fibre. 
 
 From this point the Gila was inaccessible ; and having hired an In- 
 dian from the hills, we followed his guidance, and reluctantly turned our 
 backs to the river. Surrounded by a great body of Pinal Llenos, we 
 passed through their strongholds, and on the 1st of November again 
 struck the Gila, probably not more than ten miles below the point at 
 which we left it. 
 
 Having surveyed up as far as possible from this place, we then fol- 
 lowed the course of the Gila to the mouth of the Rio San Pedro. Here, 
 while observing moon culminations for longitude, we sent a party eighty 
 miles to the Pimo village, where flour was purchased. December 9th, 
 I met this party on its return. When we arrived at the Pimo village, 
 Colonel Craig, with our escort of twenty-three men, and Captain Barry, 
 with about twenty-five days' rations, were awaiting us. The banks of the 
 
APPENDICES. 599 
 
 river from the Pimo settlement to the junction of the Rio Salinas, are 
 fertile, producing crops of cotton of the first quality. The Maricopas 
 have been driven by the Yumas from their settlement near the Salinas into 
 closer proximity to the Pimos. Within the last year many have been 
 killed, including Juan Antonio Llunas, a Maricopa by birth, but com- 
 mander-in-chief of the confederate tribes. If protected from incursions 
 of Apaches, Cuchans, and Yumas, the Maricopas would gladly return 
 to their fertile fields upon the American bank of the Gila ; and, in case 
 of an Indian war, they would prove a valuable auxiliary to our troops. 
 The Salinas, at its junction, is a beautiful stream, clear as crystal, large 
 as the Gila, and, to our surprise, not salt. Having progressed with the 
 topographical survey to within about eighty miles of the junction of the 
 Gila with the Colorado, and our supplies of provisions failing, we were 
 obliged on the 14th of December to postpone its conclusion until pro- 
 visions could be procured at the army depot at " Camp Yuma." In 
 four days we reached the junction. Here, meeting Captain Jimenesand 
 party of the Mexican Commission, who had arrived the day previous, to 
 our consternation we learned that the military post had been abandon- 
 ed. There was no alternative but to follow the soldiers. Crossing the 
 Colorado, we arrived on the 1st of January, 1852, at Santa Isabel, where 
 Captain Davidson kindly saved us from suffering by hunger. On the 
 8th of January we encamped at San Diego. The agricultural resources 
 of the Gila are of little value to the United States, more than nine 
 tenths of the soil susceptible of cultivation being upon the Mexican 
 bank. Settlements could, however, be supported at the mouth of the San 
 Francisco, opposite the mouth of the Rio San Pedro, upon the Salinas, 
 and at the junction of the Gila with the Colorado. From what pre- 
 cedes it may be inferred that it would hardly be practicable to construct 
 " a road, canal, or railway " to run wholly upon the river Gila. The 
 Canon of the Pinal Lleno Mountains is a complete barrier. The Pass 
 below the junction of the Rio San Pedro, is equally impracticable. Be- 
 tween the Pimo settlements and the junction of the Gila with the Colo- 
 rado, nature interposes no serious obstacle to the construction of a way 
 of communication, such as the travelling public may demand. But 
 from the Pimo village to the Rio Del Norte, I know of no practicable 
 route even for a wagon road, except by entering the State of Sonora to 
 avoid the Pinal Lleno Mountains. Possibly a route may be found fol- 
 lowing the course of the Salinas towards Santa Fe. Otherwise, a jor- 
 
600 APPENDICES. 
 
 nada must be traversed to Tucson in Mexico ; thence crossing the Rio 
 San Pedro, a road may pass from spring to spring — leaving the Guada- 
 lupe Pass to the south — and may proceed in the vicinity of the south- 
 ern boundary of New Mexico to Dona Ana. Four permanent military 
 posts should at the same time be established near this route ; one at 
 Col. Craig's " Cantonment Dawson " among the Copper Mines of New 
 Mexico, where a well-watered and fertile valley, rich in precious metals, 
 would soon support a flourishing settlement; one at the mouth of the 
 Rio San Pedro, where the Pinal Lleno Indians would be intercepted in 
 their marauding expeditions to Sonora ; and the third upon the excel- 
 lent cotton-lands at the mouth of the Salinas. The fourth, upon the Co- 
 lorado, has already been established by order of the War Department. 
 By treaty stipulations Avith Mexico, it is solemnly agreed, that all in- 
 cursions into her territory of our savage tribes shall be forcibly re- 
 strained by the government of the United States. At present, Indian 
 depredations in Sonora are notorious. Scores of our own citizens also 
 have been slaughtered by these roving robbers, and we have seen their 
 bones bleaching by the road-side. The government is, therefore, bound 
 to station a strong military force upon the frontier. Protection to the 
 settlers will enable the resources of the country to be developed ; emi- 
 grants, assured of safety and supplies at these depots, will avoid the perils 
 and expense of a sea voyage ; and it will soon be seen whether the 
 wants of the people require, so as to render advantageous, the construc- 
 tion of a canal or railway which may in part run upon the river Gila. 
 
 The construction of a wagon road by the route proposed through 
 Sonora for the use of both countries, would be of no less advantage to 
 Mexico than to the United States. An agreement to this effect is, in 
 fact, necessary to the fulfilment of the treaty stipulations with reference 
 to the protection of the frontier. This done, and some slight encour- 
 agement given to trade, and the now half-depopulated province of Sonora 
 will soon become one of the most flourishing States of Mexico. 
 
 From the day of first striking the Gila to the time of reaching its 
 mouth, seventy days, astronomical observations were made every night 
 except two, which were cloudy. The whole number of astronomical 
 and meteorological stations upon the Gila were forty-six. Nearly all of 
 these were also magnetic stations. Between the mouth of the Gila and 
 this place are three intermediate astronomical and magnetic stations, 
 < besides those made on my trip from San Diego to the Colorado in Sep- 
 
APPENDICES. 601 
 
 tember, 1849. Thus is completed a consecutive chain of magnetic sta- 
 tions extending from the observatory at Cambridge, Massachusetts, by 
 way of Galveston, San Antonio, and El Paso del Norte, to the Pacific 
 Ocean. At most of the stations, the three elements, inclination, declina- 
 tion, and intensity have been observed. In the astronomical and mag- 
 netic department, John O'Donoghue and Hugh Campbell have been 
 my invaluable assistants. 
 
 The magnetic instrument used was made by Mr. George, of Fal- 
 mouth, under the direction of the celebrated Mr. Fox, the inventor. It 
 is the same that was turned over for this service by yourself at the close 
 of the North-eastern Boundary survey. With it I observed at Chagres, 
 Gorgona, and Panama, in 1849. 
 
 It is believed that a map exhibiting the results obtained will prove 
 of much interest, and when published will add credit to the department 
 under which the operation Las been conducted. I regret that we have 
 not the power of embracing the present opportunity — by returning to 
 the United States by way of China and the Mediterranean — to sur- 
 round the globe with a series of magnetic observations. Not only 
 would the value of the results upon the boundary be greatly enhanced 
 by such direct comparison at European observatories, but passing 
 through or near the maxima of horizontal intensity, the lines of no vari- 
 ation would be crossed, and an exceedingly interesting belt of observa- 
 tions might be completed around that part of the world, at present, 
 with reference to magnetism, so little known. 
 
 Notwithstanding the recent hostility of the whole tribe of Apaches, 
 Colloteros, Pinal Llenos, and Tontos, through which we passed without 
 an escort, nothing but kindness was received from them. The Yumas 
 and Cocopas, though glorying in the belief that they had driven away 
 the small detachment of United States troops stationed among them, 
 still treated us with respect and favor. The vigilance of Colonel Craig 
 gave them no opportunity of showing hostility. 
 
 One sad accident I have to record : the death of Thomas Harper, an 
 excellent young man from Kentucky, and a member of my party. 
 While bathing in the Colorado, he was seized with cramp, sank, and, 
 although a dozen leaped into the water to afford assistance, the rapid 
 current bore him beyond reach, and search was fruitless. 
 
 Major Heintzelman is now preparing to establish the military post 
 at the Colorado River. Soon as this is done, I hope to be able to ob- 
 
602 APPENDICES. 
 
 tain supplies of provisions ; and in ten days after the recommencement 
 of the work, the survey of the Gila will be completed. In the mean 
 time, until the arrival of Mr. Bartlett, who is supposed to be at Guay- 
 mas, or, while awaiting other means of procuring supplies for our re- 
 turn, myself and assistants are actively employed in completing our 
 observations and plotting the notes of the survey. 
 I remain, Sir, very respectfully, 
 
 Your obedient servant, 
 
 A. W. WHIPPLE, 
 Lt. IT. S. Topographical Engrs. 
 To Brev. Lt. Col. J. D. Graham, U. S. T.E. 
 Principal Astronomer, etc., 
 
 U. S. B. Commission 
 
 E. 
 
 Colonel J. D. GraJiam to the Hon. Alex. H. H. Stuart, Secre- 
 tary of tlie Interior, in reference to the Survey of the 
 Head Waters of the Gulf of California and the River 
 Colorado, by Lieutenant I. G. Strain, U. S. Navy. 
 
 Washington, December 31, 1850. 
 The Honorable the Secretary of the Department of the Interior 
 having referred to me (for my views of the measures therein suggested) 
 the letter of Lieutenant I. G. Strain, of the navy, of the 31st of October 
 last, and the papers accompanying it, I have the honor to state that I 
 have perused them all with attention, and that I feel obliged to give it 
 as my opinion (which I do with all deference), that the measures sug- 
 gested by Lieutenant Strain have no relation whatever to the survey and 
 demarkation of the boundary under the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo ; 
 and that they ought not in any way to be connected therewith. I have 
 made a careful calculation of the length of boundary line to be sur- 
 veyed and marked by suitable monuments, and find it to be about one 
 thousand six hundred miles, independent of the lateral surveys that will 
 be requisite, in order to determine the true line of boundary, should 
 
APPENDICES. 603 
 
 doubts on this point arise, on any portion of the line, in the minds of 
 the Commissioners. The aggregate extent of survey necessary to fix 
 the line, will scarcely fall short of two thousand or two thousand five 
 hundred miles. Every one connected with this survey will then have 
 as much as they can possibly attend to in performing the duties imme- 
 diately connected with the boundary line, which should be completed 
 at as early a period as possible. 
 
 Besides these considerations of expediency, I cannot perceive how 
 the expenses which would attend the accomplishment of Lieutenant 
 Strain's project, could be legitimately drawn from the appropriations 
 granted by Congress for the boundary survey. 
 
 The Gulf of California lies far from the line of boundary, and in 
 territory belonging exclusively to Mexico, and not within the jurisdic- 
 tion, therefore, of the United States. To attempt a minute survey of 
 this gulf, under the pretence of its being an adjunct operation to the 
 boundary survey, would undoubtedly arouse the suspicions of Mexico, 
 and give offence to that Republic. 
 
 It is true, that by the provisions of the late treaty our citizens have 
 the right of ingress and egress through the Gulf of California ; and it 
 is not improbable, that if the proposition were made to the Mexican 
 government through the proper channel, she might be disposed to enter 
 into a joint arrangement with our government for an accurate hydro- 
 graphic survey of the gulf; an undertaking that would be equally 
 honorable to both governments, and highly advantageous to the com- 
 merce of both people. But in such an event, I should think it highly 
 expedient that so important an operation should, on our side, be placed 
 under the direction of one of the organized corps of the government, 
 maintained for such purposes, and provided with all the necessary appa- 
 ratus and scientific experience which are necessary to success. 
 
 I find by the latest maps we have of California, that the area of this 
 gulf is not less than sixty-two thousand square miles. To acomplish a 
 survey of it in a manner to satisfy the requirements of commerce would, 
 to say the least, occupy several years ; and it would probably cost very 
 nearly as much as has been appropriated for the whole boundary survey, 
 perhaps even more. 
 
 If a mere reconnoissance of the gulf is proposed, I will remark that 
 Mr. Gray, the United States Surveyor, informed me, on his arrival here, 
 that General Persifer Smith had already detailed an officer and supplied 
 
604 APPENDICES. 
 
 a vessel for that object. I presume lie had proper authority for so 
 doing. 
 
 In regard to the " flotilla," which Lieut. Strain alluded to as being in 
 command of, I must again most respectfully remark, that I consider 
 this an injudicious arrangement, and that it ought to be dispensed with. 
 I have been frequently engaged on surveys, for the last thirty years, of 
 rivers, harbors, and portions of the sea coast, and always found the best 
 persons to manage the boats employed on such service were the engi- 
 neers and surveyors charged with, and responsible for, the execution of 
 the duty. Landsmen born and reared near the sea coast, or near our 
 great rivers, generally possess all the skill requisite for the manage- 
 ment of such boats ; and I would much prefer on this boundary service 
 the system, in this respect, which I have always heretofore practised* 
 and therefore I recommend it to your favorable consideration. 
 
 The letter of Lieut. Strain to the department, of October, 3 1 , and 
 the papers therein alluded to as accompanying the same, are herewith 
 handed back to the department. 
 
 " All which is respectfully submitted. 
 
 J. D. GRAHAM, 
 Lt. Col. and Head of Scientific Corps ; 
 dec, dec, dec 
 Hon. Alex. H. H. Stuart, 
 
 Sec of the Department of the Interior. 
 
 F. 
 
 Programme of the Party detailed for the Survey of the Bio 
 Grande, August 27, 1851. 
 
 Lt. Col. J. D. Graham, Principal Astronomer in charge of the party. 
 Lt. W. F. Smith, Topographical Engineers, Assistant Astronomer. 
 Lt. A. E. Burnside, 3d Artillery, Quarter-master and Commissary. 
 M. Von Hippel, Draughtsman. 
 
 M. T. W. Chandler, 1st Assistant in charge of Meteorological Depart* 
 ment. 
 
APPENDICES. 605 
 
 Lieut. 0. H. Tillinghast (soon after removed by Major Emory), 
 Quarter-master and Commissary. 
 
 Thomas W. Jones, Assistant. James Henning, Assistant. 
 
 J. H. Clark, do. P. Crenion, do. 
 
 Charles Wright, do. James P. Espy, do. 
 
 Wm. White, Jr., do. Geo. G. Garner, do. 
 
 Charles A. Snowden, do. E. A. Phillips, do. 
 
 Thomas Thompson, do. A. P. Wilbar, do. 
 
 James H. Houston, do. 
 T. W. Tansill, ) Clerks in the Commissary and Quarter-master's 
 George S. Peirce, ) Departments. 
 
 Thirteen chainmen, flag-bearers, station-markers, and mechanics ; 
 nineteen cooks, servants, and laborers ; with teamsters and herdsmen in 
 addition. 
 
 Many additions, and some changes, were made by Major Emory 
 when he relieved Colonel Graham, in November following. 
 
INDEX 
 
 Acapulco, arrival at, i. 499. 
 
 description of, i. 500. 
 
 its ancient commerce, i. 503. 
 
 Agave Mexican a and its uses, i. 291 ; 
 
 ii. 484. 
 where seen, i. 198. 254; ii. 105, 
 
 124, 126, 296, 370. 
 Agua Dulce, Texas, ii. 526. 
 Aguardiente, how made, i. 290. 
 Agua Peieta, Sonora, i. 257, 294; ii. 
 
 290. 
 Aguilar, Gov., of Sonora, i. 435. 
 
 journey with, to Guaymas, i. 463. 
 
 Alacran, The, of Durango, ii. 557. 
 Alamo, The, at San Antonio, i. 41. 
 Alamo Mucho, well at, ii. 132, 140. 
 
 desert at, ii. 135. 
 
 Alamo de Parras, arrival at, ii. 478. 
 extensive cultivation near, ii. 
 
 478. 
 Alarcon, his voyage up the Colorado 
 
 in 1540, ii. 168, 170, 181. 
 Ensign, voyage to California in 
 
 1594, ii. 98. 
 Albuquerque, its elevation above the 
 
 sea, i. 196. 
 character of the country between 
 
 it and the Gila, ii. 144. 
 Alcedo, notices the petahaya, ii. 192. 
 Alden, Capt., trip with, to the Fara- 
 
 lones, ii. 53. 
 Alegro. History of the Jesuits re- 
 ferred to, ii. 183, 212. 
 his notices of the Pimos, ii. 266, 
 
 282, 299. 
 Alfalfa and its cultivation, ii. 437. 
 Algodones on the Colorado, ii. 150. 
 Alkaline salt in Chihuahua, ii. 417. 
 
 Almaden, Spain, notices of the quick- 
 silver mines at, ii. 59. 
 Almaden, New, description of, ii. 57. 
 the quicksilver furnaces at, ii. 
 
 58, 67. 
 Altar, Presidio of, Sonora, i. 407. 
 Ampudia, Gen., his battery in the Ein- 
 
 conada pass, ii. 510. 
 Andrews, Maj., at Fort Yuma, ii. 152. 
 
 acknowledgments to, ii. 158. 
 
 Angeles, Los, California, journey to 
 
 and description of, ii. 80, 82. 
 
 Star, newspaper, ii. 81. 
 
 Angostura, encampment at, ii. 494. 
 Animals, losses of, by the cold, i. 144. 
 Ankrim, Hon. J. L., i. 61. 
 Antelope, great numbers of, in West- 
 ern Texas, ii. 521-526. 
 Antelope Creek, Texas, i. 74, 75. 
 Apaches, first visit from, i. 300. 
 
 captives taken from, i. 310. 
 
 friendly relations with, i. 320. 
 
 Americans attacked by them in 
 
 Chihuahua, i. 295. 
 
 dialogue with, i. 312, 334. 
 
 their range and numbers, i. 323 ; 
 
 ii. 386. 
 
 ethnological position, habits and 
 
 physical character, i. 826. 
 
 one killed by a Mexican, i. 331. 
 
 Descent by them on the animals 
 
 at the Copper Mines, i. 
 
 343, 346, 349, 351, 353. 
 their ravages in Sonora, i. 408, 
 
 447, 450; ii. 292, 317. 
 
 defeated by the Opates, i. 454. 
 
 their ravages in Chihuahua, ii. 
 
 293, 345, 369, 377, 415, 427. 
 their depredations near El Paso, 
 
 ii. 384, 388. 
 
608 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Apaches, their treachery and hostile 
 
 character, ii. 387. 
 encounter with, in Chihuahua, ii. 
 
 411. 
 their plunder of Arniijo's train, 
 
 ii. 415. 
 Aranama Mission, Texas, i. 30. 
 Aransas Bay, Texas, ii. 533. 
 Arispe, Sonora, visit to, i. 282. 
 Armijo's train robbed by the Indians, 
 
 ii. 415. 
 Arroyo de Uvalde River, Texas, ii. 529. 
 Ash Creek, Sonora, ii. 326. 
 Assumption River, N. Mexico, ii. 269. 
 Astronomical Observatory established 
 
 at San Eleazario and Frontera, 
 
 i. 176. 
 Atascoco River, Texas, ii. 529. 
 Atmosphere, its clearness in Texas, i. 
 
 118. 
 Aztecs, the notion of their migration 
 
 from the north not well found- 
 ed, ii. 283. 
 
 B. 
 Babasaqtji, Sonora, i. 417. 
 Babispe, Presidio of, Sonora, i. 407. 
 pass in the Sierra Madre near, ii. 
 
 568. 
 Babocomori River, Sonora, i. 393. 
 Bachimba, Chihuahua, ii. 444. 
 Bacuachi, Sonora, visit to, i. 275. 
 Bahia del Espiritu Santo, i. 26. 
 Baird, Prof. S. E, his notice of the zo- 
 ology of the commission, ii. 
 
 548. 
 Bajiopa Indians, California, ii. 178. 
 Bale, Senora, of Napa valley, ii. 22. 
 Sergeant, and the deserters, ii. 
 
 136. 
 Ball given to the people of El Paso, i. 
 
 167. 
 Balleza River, Chihuahua, ii. 450. 
 Barbabi valley, Sonora, i. 273. 
 Barley, its cultivation in California, 
 
 ii. 15. 
 Barometers broken, ii. 184. 
 Barragan, Capt., Mexican Army, i. 
 
 406 ; ii. 292. 
 Barrancas near Buena Vista, ii. 495. 
 Barron & Forbes, their quicksilver 
 
 mine, ii. 67. 
 Barry, Capt., organizes a rifle corps, i. 
 
 19. 
 Barry & Sheldon reach El Paso, i. 
 
 149. 
 
 Bears, their numbers in the Rocky 
 Mountains, i. 236. 
 
 in California, ii. 36, 48. 
 
 emigrants encounter one near 
 
 the Guadalupe Pass, ii. 335. 
 
 Beaver, where found, ii. 566. 
 
 Beef cattle found, i. 101, 103. 
 
 Bells, old, in Sonora, i. 276, 419. 
 
 Benicia, California, ii. 12. 
 
 Berne, Mr., of Guadalupe, Texas, i. 55. 
 
 Berthold, Justice, of Socorro, i. 159. 
 
 Bester, Norman, New Almaden, ii. 63. 
 
 Bigelow, Dr. J. M., his botanical col- 
 lection, ii. 549. 
 
 Big Horn Mountain, Gila, ii. 197. 
 
 Black-tailed deer, ii. 197. 
 
 Black Water Creek, i. 263. 
 
 Blanco, General, visit to and from, ii. 
 292, 293. 
 
 Bobadilla, Juan B., of Parras, ii. 488. 
 
 Bodega Bay, California, ii. 28. 
 
 Boiling Spring, Texas, i. 118. 
 
 Bolson de Mapimi occupied by the In- 
 dians, ii. 455. 
 
 Bond, Lieut., at Fort Yuma, ii. 152. 
 
 Botanical Collections of the Commis- 
 sion, notice of, ii. 549, 550. 
 
 Bottom lands on the Rio Grande, i. 196. 
 
 their great extent, i. 188. 
 
 of Sonora, ii. 569. 
 
 Boturini's theory of the Aztec migra- 
 tion, ii. 283. 
 
 Boulders at Waco M't'n, i. ] 34, 170. 
 
 near the Gila, ii. 195, 206. 
 
 Boundary Commission, its outfit pro- 
 cured, i. 4. 
 
 its organization and objects, i. 5. 
 
 list of the members of, ii. 594. 
 
 Boundary line between the United 
 States and Mexico. — Vth arti- 
 cle of the treaty relating to, ii. 
 587. 
 
 see Initial Point. 
 
 Bracito, encamp near, ii. 395. 
 
 note on Col. Doniphan's battle at, 
 
 ii. 395. 
 
 Brady's Creek, Texas, i. 70, 71. 
 
 Brandy of El Paso, i. 186. 
 
 production of, in Sonora, i. 469. 
 
 Brazos River, its source, ii. 565. 
 
 Brodie, J. P., of Sonora, i. 463, 471. 
 
 Bryan, Major, his route and itinerary 
 through Texas, i. 83, 136. 
 
 Buena Vista, encampment near, and 
 visit to the battle-field of, ii. 
 494. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 609 
 
 Buenaval Rio, Zacatecns, ii. 4*76. 
 
 Buena Vista Rio, Chihuahua, ii. 450. 
 
 Buford, Capt. A., i. 200, 205, 207. 
 
 comes to the aid of the Commis- 
 sion with his dragoons, i. 350. 
 
 his expedition against the Indi- 
 ans, i. 351. 
 
 Bull, John, Reconnaissance by, and 
 new route opened to the Cop- 
 per Mines, i. 177 ; ii. 542. 
 
 his survey from Indianola to El 
 
 Paso, i. 14 ; ii. 542. 
 
 his connection with the Gila sur- 
 vey, ii. 543. 
 
 Burro Mountains, New Mexico, i. 361. 
 
 Burrowing animals in Texas, i. 99. 
 
 C. 
 
 Cabeca River, Texas, Encampment on, 
 i. 31. 
 
 Cabeca de Vaca, reference to, ii. 531. 
 
 Cache on the Gila opened, ii. 199. 
 
 used by the Hudson's Bay traders, 
 
 ii. 199. 
 
 mode of constructing them, ii. 200. 
 
 indications of one seen, ii. 202. 
 
 Cacti, travelling among, ii. 801. 
 
 Caddo Indians- of Texas, i. 66. 
 
 Calabasa, Sonora, ii. 307. 
 
 Calf killed for a deer, i. 23. 
 
 California, character of the natives of, 
 ii. 73. 
 
 its advantages independent of 
 
 gold, ii. 98. 
 
 the ladies of, ii. 1 04. 
 
 its agricultural resources, i. 106. 
 
 the fertility of its soil, ii. 119. 
 
 ■ Gulf of, exploration and survey 
 
 of its head-waters recom- 
 mended, ii. 162. 
 
 Lieut. Strain's plan for this sur- 
 vey in his letter to the Secre- 
 tary of the Interior, ii. 163- 
 165. 
 
 survey of, defeated by Lieut. Col. 
 
 Graham, ii. 165, 166. 
 
 examination of, authorized by in- 
 structions, ii. 167. 
 
 explored by Alarcon in 1540, ii. 
 
 168. 
 
 Gulf of, explored by Consas; in 
 
 1746, ii. 170. 
 
 voyage of Lieut. Hardy in 1828, 
 
 "ii.170. 
 
 aspect of its shores, i. 483. 
 
 desert its barrenness, ii. 126-130. 
 
 Camargo, arrival at and description 
 of, ii. 511. 
 
 Camels, note on their introduction on 
 the deserts and plains, ii. 576 
 -584. 
 
 Campbell, Dr. J. "W., of Ures, Sonora, 
 _ i. 435, 436. 
 
 his kindness to the author, i. 438. 
 
 Camp Creek, Texas, i. 69. 
 
 Campus, Don Jesus, of Parras, his wine 
 vaults, ii. 488. 
 
 Canales, Gen., his destruction of U. S. 
 wagons, ii. 506. 
 
 Cantarecio, Chihuahua, ii. 406. 
 
 Captives (Mexican) rescued from the 
 Apaches, i. 310. 
 
 Captive girl rescued (see Inez Gonza- 
 les), i. 303. 
 
 Caravajal, General, ii. 511. 
 
 Carmel River, California, ii. 76. 
 
 Carmel Mission, California, ii. 77. 
 
 Carmen, Island of, California, i. 483. 
 
 Carmen River, Chihuahua, ii. 407-411. 
 
 Carrasco General, meeting with, in 
 Sonora, i. 263. 
 
 makes a descent on the Apaches, 
 
 at Janos, i. 267. 
 
 his opinion of Gen. Scott and 
 
 the American officers, i. 270. 
 
 meet his brigade in Guadalupe 
 
 Pass, i. 295. 
 
 Carrizal, Chihuahua, ii. 409. 
 
 Carrizitos, Tamaulipas, ii. 506. 
 
 Carrizo Creek, California, its charac- 
 ter, ii. 126-128. 
 
 vegetation near, ii. 127. 
 
 Castello, Domenico de, voyage up 
 the Colorado in 1540, ii. 168. 
 
 Castilian language, its purity in Cali- 
 fornia, ii. 74. 
 
 Castillero, Senor, proprietor of the 
 New Almaden mine, ii. 67. 
 
 Castle Mountain, Texas, i. 91 ; ii. 570. 
 
 Casas Grandes, on the Rio Salinas, ii. 
 244-248. 
 
 on the Gila, account of, ii. 271- 
 
 285. 
 
 noticed by Father Kino in 1697, 
 
 ii. 265. 
 
 described by Father Font in 1770, 
 
 ii. 278. 
 
 mistakes of authors in reference 
 
 to, ii. 280. 
 
 Chihuahua, visit to, and descrip- 
 tion of, ii. 345-365. 
 
 their general character the same 
 
610 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 as the ruins on the Gila and 
 the Salinas, ii. 354. 
 
 Casas Grandes of Chihuahua, their re- 
 semblance to edifices of the 
 Pueblo Indians of New Mexi- 
 co, ii. 357-368. 
 
 Casas Gkandes River, Chihuahua, ii. 
 237, 342, 347, 363. 
 
 its bottom-lands, ii. 347, 360, 
 
 363. 
 
 its agricultural products, ii. 363. 
 
 Catalina Island, Gulf of Cal., i.483. 
 
 on the Pacific coast, ii. 79. 
 
 Cawenas Indians, small remnant of, 
 on the Gila, ii. 251. 
 
 Cayman Lake, ii. 472. 
 
 Ceguin, near Parras, ii. 489. 
 
 Cereus Giganteus, first seen in Sonora, 
 i. 416. 
 
 for further notices of this plant 
 
 see Petahaya. 
 
 Centipedes, their numbers, ii. 556. 
 
 Ceralvo, town of, ii. 507. 
 
 Cereals of California, ii. 106. 
 
 Ceris Indians of Sonora, i. 463. 
 
 language, history, and charac- 
 teristics of, i. 464. 
 
 poisoned arrows of, i. 465. 
 
 Cerro Gordo, Durango, ii. 467. 
 
 escort furnished at, ii. 467. 
 
 attack of Comanches on, ii. 468. 
 
 Cervis Lewisii, L 236. 
 
 Chandler, M. T. W., his meteorological 
 observations, ii. 541. 
 
 Ciiapporal in Texas, its character, 
 i. 93. 
 
 Chapporal Cock, ii. 563. 
 
 Charco de Grado, Chihuahua, ii. 406. 
 
 Chemeguaba Indians of the Colorado, 
 ii. 178. 
 
 Chihuahua, its trade with San Anto- 
 nio, i. 40. 
 
 approach to, ii. 421. 
 
 map and statistical report on, 
 
 made in 1834, ii. 429. 
 
 description of the city, ii. 431— 
 
 440. 
 
 its arable and timber lands, ii. 
 
 567. 
 
 Chihuahua dogs, diminutive breed of 
 ii. 440. 
 
 Chili Colorado of Sonora, i. 408. 
 
 Chimney Rock near Fort Yuma, ii. 
 159. 
 
 Chin api, Sonora, i. 279. 
 
 Chinese in California, ii. 12. 
 
 Chipota, the Lipan Chief, i. 76-79. 
 
 Chiqueta, the Lipan Chief, i. 79. 
 
 Cholera among the Gila Indians, ii. 
 241. 
 
 Cibolo River, encampment on, i. 33. 
 
 Cienega Grande, near Parras, ii. 489. 
 
 Cinnabar of New Almaden, ii. 57. 
 
 Clarke, Edw. C, the murder of, i.158. 
 
 J. H., his zoological collections, 
 
 preface viii. ; ii. 548. 
 
 Clavigero, his theory of Aztec emigra- 
 tion not well founded, ii. 283. 
 
 his reference to the Casas Gran- 
 des, ii. 358-362. 
 
 Clear Lake, California, ii. 36. 
 
 Coanpa Indians of the Colorado, ii. 
 178. 
 
 Cocopa Indians of the Colorado, ii. 
 179. 
 
 Coco-Maricopa Indians, visit from at 
 Ures, i. 451. 
 
 on the Gila, ii. 211, 213. 
 
 their religious notions, ii. 221, 
 
 222. 
 
 their former range, ii. 221. 
 
 their courtship and marriage, ii. 
 
 222. 
 
 their cotton manufactures, ii. 224 
 
 -226. 
 
 their pottery and basket-work, 
 
 ii. 226. 
 
 their dress, ii. 228-230. 
 
 their villages and mode of irriga- 
 tion, ii. 234. 
 
 their granaries, ii. 235, 236. 
 
 their wars with the Yumas, ii. 
 
 252. 
 
 their alliance with the Pimos, ii. 
 
 262. 
 
 their numbers, ii. 263. 
 
 visited by Kino in 1698, ii. 267. 
 
 where found by Font in 1775, 
 
 and by Sedelmayer in 1744. ii. 
 268. 
 
 Cocospera, Sonora, Mission at, i. 413. 
 
 meet French emigrants journey- 
 ing to, i. 472, 
 
 Cocuiarachi, Sonora, i. 272. 
 
 Colette River, Texas, camp on, i. 19. 
 
 its character, i. 21. 
 
 Colima, Mexico, its position, i. 494. 
 
 its history and population, i. 
 
 498. 
 
 the volcanos of, i. 493. 
 
 Colonization of the English and Span- 
 ish compared, ii. 299. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 611 
 
 Comanche Spring, Texas, i. 53. 
 
 Comanche Indians, ii. 385. 
 
 their depredations, ii. 4*76, 417, 
 
 479, 480, 497, 520 
 their range and numbers, ii. 386, 
 
 424. 
 their attack on the town of Sau- 
 
 cillo, ii. 447. 
 their robbery of 120 mules from 
 
 a train, ii. 448. 
 
 in the Bolson de Mapimi ii. 455. 
 
 defeat the Mexicans at Cerro 
 
 Gordo, ii. 468. 
 Cola Azul, the Pimo chief, ii. 254. 
 Colorado River of Texas, ii. 536. 
 Colorado River, California, arrival 
 
 at, ii. 150. 
 bottom lands on, ii. 149, 151, 
 
 159-161. 
 ■ hills of moving sand near, ii. 
 
 149, 150. 
 
 its junction with the Gila, ii. 
 
 158. 
 its character, ii. 157, 160, 173, 
 
 174, 168, 170, 172, 572. 
 nature of its bend, which gives 
 
 the U. S. both its banks at 
 
 Fort Yuma, ii. 160. 
 traces of old Spanish missions on, 
 
 ii. 161. 
 difficulties in navigating, ii. 162, 
 
 168, 170, 171, 172. 
 
 survey of, recommended, ii. 162. 
 
 Lt. Strain's plan for such survey, 
 
 163-165. 
 Col. Graham defeats the plan, ii. 
 
 165, 
 Alarcon's voyage up in 1540, ii. 
 
 168, 169, 181. 
 
 Consag's attempt to ascend it in 
 
 1746, ii. 170. 
 
 Hardy's attempt in 1828, ii. 170. 
 
 Turnbull's voyage up in 1852, ii. 
 
 172. 
 Major Heintzelman's reconnais- 
 sance of, ii. 168. 
 height of and greatest rise, ii. 
 
 174. 
 particulars of the ferry estab- 
 lished on, by Dr. Langdon, ii. 
 
 174. 
 Comeya, another name for the Diege- 
 
 nos, ii. 179. 
 Comeya Indians of California, ii. 7. 
 Conoepcion, Texas, Mission of, i. 44. 
 Co.vcepcion Point, California, ii. 79. 
 
 Concho River, Texas, i. 85, 86. 
 
 do. South Fork, i. 79. 
 
 Conchos River, Chihuahua, ii. 450, 
 
 567. 
 
 its bottom lands, ii. 451. 
 
 Conde, Gen'l Pedro, see Garcia Conde. 
 Cooke's Spring, New Mexico, i. 219, 
 Cooke, Colonel St. George, liis Califor- 
 nia road, i. 244 ; ii. 332. 
 his opening of Guadalupe Pass, 
 
 i. 251 ; ii. 332. 
 
 traces of his camps, ii. 197, 330. 
 
 opens tlie defile at San Felipe, 
 
 California, ii. 123. 
 Cooke's Well, California desert,ii. 148. 
 Coon's, Mr, Wagons, encampment of, 
 
 near the Guadalupe Mountain, 
 
 Texas, i. 121. 
 
 rancho, El Paso, i. 192. 
 
 party, losses of animals by, i. 
 
 192. 
 meeting with in Sonora with 
 
 large herd of sheep, ii. 293. ' 
 Copper Mines near the Gila. Dr. 
 
 Webb's report on, i. 178. 
 
 history and description of, i. 228. 
 
 Cordero, Gov. of Chihuahua, ii. 428. 
 his certificate relating to the 
 
 boundary, ii. 437. 
 Corn, its price at El Paso, i. 150. 
 
 its price at Arispe, i. 284, 
 
 Cornudos del Alamo, Texas, i. 121, 
 
 128. 
 Coronado's Islands, description of, ii. 
 
 86-88. 
 Corpus Christi, Texas, arrival at, ii. 
 
 526. 
 
 its bay and vicinity, ii. 528. 
 
 Corral, mode of forming one, i. 49. 
 Correlitos, Chihuahua, visit to, ii. 
 
 342, 344. 
 furnaces for smelting silver ore 
 
 at, ii. 343. 
 Cosnina Indians of New Mexico, ii. 
 
 178. 
 Cotton, its cultivation in Sonora, i. 
 
 441, 469. 
 
 its cultivation in Texas, i. 28. 
 
 its cultivation in Parras, ii. 486. 
 
 seen growing on the banks of the 
 
 Colorado, Cal., in 1542, ii. 182. 
 its cultivation by the Indians on 
 
 the Gila, ii. 224, 598. 
 
 on the Rio Nasas, ii. 472. 
 
 at Alamo de Parras, ii. 478. 
 
 Cotton lands in California, ii. 106. 
 
612 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Cotton mills, near Saltillo, ii. 497. 
 
 Covayan Mountain, Sonora, i. 264. 
 
 Cows, how milked in Sonora, i. 475. 
 
 Craig, Colonel, appointed to command 
 escort, i. 6. 
 
 loses seven men by desertion, i. 
 
 169. 
 
 visits Sonora with the author, i. 
 
 239. 
 
 loses mules by the Indians at the 
 
 Copper Mines, i. 343, 346, 351. 
 
 pursues the Apaches, i. S46, 350, 
 
 351. 
 
 meeting, with, at San Diego, i. 
 
 505. 
 
 atSanta Isabel, Cal., ii. 118,121. 
 
 his vigilance on the march, ii. 
 
 131. 
 
 departure from camp on the Cal- 
 ifornia desert, and last inter- 
 view with him, ii. 131. 
 
 meets U. S. deserters, ii. 136. 
 
 is shot by the deserters, ii. 138. 
 
 particulars of his death as related 
 
 by Dr. Webb, ii. 141. 
 
 his burial on the desert, ii. 145. 
 
 his character and military ser- 
 vices, ii. 146. 
 
 Crawfish in California, ii. 84. 
 
 Creosote plant, i. 94. 
 
 Crows seen everywhere, ii. 555. 
 
 Cruces, New Mexico, ii. 392. 
 
 Cruz, Colonel, of Camargo, ii. 511. 
 
 Cruz, La, town of, Chihuahua, ii. 450. 
 
 D. 
 
 Damas' notice of quicksilver mines in 
 
 Spain, ii. 60. 
 Dana's notice of San Diego, ii. 96. 
 Date tree at Ures, i. 441. 
 Davidson, Capt., at Fort Yuma, ii. 152. 
 Decrow's Point, Texas, ii. 536. 
 Deer, abundance of in Texas, ii. 562. 
 Delaware Creek, Texas, i. 110-116. 
 Delaware Indians in Texas, visit to, 
 
 i. 59. 
 Desert of California, great loss of 
 
 animals on, ii. 126-147. 
 
 pools of brackish water on, ii. 
 
 135. 
 
 intense heat on, ii. 139, 140. 
 
 wagons and property abandoned 
 
 on, ii. 140. 
 
 account of, ii. 4, 129, 130, 572. 
 
 desert south of the Gila, ii. 187, 
 
 19(3, 208, 209,259, 286, 290, 567. 
 
 Desert from Texas to the Pacific, i. 
 
 139. 
 Desert regions in Texas, i. 87. 
 Desert plants, vivifying influences 
 
 that nourish them, ii. 126. 
 
 character of, ii. 563. 
 
 Diary interrupted by illness, i. 434. 
 Diavolo Mountain, Texas, i. 104. 
 Diegeno Indians, visit from at San 
 
 Diego, ii. 7. 
 
 at Santa Isabel, California, ii. 
 
 119. 
 
 at San Felipe, California, ii. 122. 
 
 at Vallecito " ii. 125. 
 
 Digger Indians, " ii. 29. 
 
 Disturnell's Map of Mexico, errors in, 
 
 i. 152-201. 
 Ditching land in California, ii. 18. 
 Dobbins, Captain, kills Mr. Wakeman, 
 
 i. 154. 
 Dogs, diminutive breed of, in Chihua- 
 hua, ii. 440. 
 Dona Ana, visit to, i. 154. 
 its elevation above the sea, i. 
 
 196. 
 
 description of, i. 211 ; ii. 392. 
 
 Doniphan, Colonel, his affair at Braci- 
 
 to, ii. 395. 
 his taking of Santa Rosalia, ii. 
 
 451. 
 at the battle of Sacramento ii. 
 
 420. 
 Dove Creek, Texas, i. 79. 
 Dubos, Dr., Chihuahua, ii. 425. 
 Ducks, wild, in Texas, i. 85. 
 Dukey, Francisco, the Maricopa Chief, 
 
 ii. 213-219. 
 
 E. 
 Eddy, Lt. acknowledgments to, ii. 106. 
 Elk, their abundance in California, 
 
 ii. 48. 
 El Paso Del Norte, arrival at in 1850, 
 
 i. 36. 
 
 the mountain pass at, i. 145. 
 
 dinner given the authorities at, 
 
 i. 146. 
 entertainment given the people 
 
 of, i. 166. 
 
 its description, i. 184. 
 
 Oriental style of its houses, i. 
 
 189. 
 
 geographical position of, i. 193. 
 
 its height above the sea, i. 196. 
 
 departure from, for the Pacific, 
 
 i. 149. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 613 
 
 El Paso del Norte, error in position 
 
 of, on Treaty map, i. 201. 
 latitude and longitude of, deter- 
 mined by Lieut. Whipple, ii. 
 
 383. 
 
 return to, from California, ii. 378. 
 
 final departure from, ii. 401. 
 
 Emigrants, trespasses of, in Sonora, i. 
 
 423. 
 to California met with, ii. 287, 
 
 305, 3,19, 310, 311, 320, 321, 
 
 323, 327, 329, 331, 335, 341. 
 Emory, Major, appointed surveyor in 
 
 place of A. B. Gray, ii. 85. 
 letter to Secretary Stuart on the 
 
 Initial Point, i. 344. 
 his opinion of the value of the 
 
 disputed territory, i. 346. 
 his report of the survey of the 
 
 Rio Grande, ii. 513. 
 results of his labors as surveyor, 
 
 ii. 546, 547. 
 Encantada, encampment at, ii. 494. 
 Encinillas, Lake of, ii. 416. 
 
 town of, Chihuahua, ii. 418. 
 
 English, an American named, in cap 
 
 tivity, i. 456. 
 Escondida, Texas, ii. 624. 
 Espiritu Santo Bay, Texas, i. 21 ; ii. 
 
 534. 
 Ethnological collections made, ii. 551. 
 Euphorbia, i. 53. 
 
 Execution of murderers at Socorro, i. 
 62. 
 
 Falcon Steamer, embark in, at Hava- 
 na, i. 7. 
 
 False Bay, California, ii. 96. 
 
 Fandango in Magdalena, i. 429. 
 
 Fannin, Col., massacre of, in Texas, i. 
 28. 
 
 Fillmore, Fort, visit to, i. 195; ii. 
 390. 
 
 silver mine near, ii. 392. 
 
 Fishes taken in the Salinas, ii. 240- 
 244. 
 
 of the Gila, ii. 195-207. 
 
 their destruction by northers in 
 
 the Gulf of Mexico, ii. 531. 
 
 Flat Rock Ponds, Texas, i. 89-90. 
 
 Flores, Gen. interview with, i. 456. 
 
 Flour, prices of at El Paso, i. 191. 
 
 Flotte, Lewis, his smelting works at 
 Barrancos, ii. 346. 
 
 his loss by the Indians, ii. 345. 
 
 Flotte, Lewis, his silver mines near 
 Correlitos.ii. 366. 
 
 his persecutions and sacrifices, 
 
 ii. 425. 
 
 accompanies the Commission 
 
 with his family, ii. 442. 
 
 Font, Pedro, visits the Colorado, in 
 1776, ii. 183. 
 
 his MS. journal and map, ii. 183. 
 
 his account of the Pimos, ii. 267. 
 
 his account of Casas Grande, ii, 
 
 278. 
 
 Forbes, Alex., his notice of Father 
 Peyri, ii. 93. 
 
 Force, H. C, his meteoric observa- 
 tions, ii. 541-568. 
 
 Forests and timber lauds, where found, 
 ii. 574. 
 
 Fossil Shells, Texas, i. 92. 
 
 near Mier, ii. 511. 
 
 Fossils on the Gila, ii. 598. 
 
 Fouquiera, i. 121; ii. 255, 257, 296, 
 430, 445. 
 
 Fredericksburg, Texas, i. 59. 
 
 Fkemont, Col. J. C, appointed U. S. 
 Commissioner, i. 3. 
 
 his journeys in the California ba- 
 sin, ii. 107. 
 
 Frontera, Texas, astronomical obser- 
 vatory at, i. 194. 
 
 Fronteras, Sonora, send party in search 
 for, i. 261. 
 
 visit to, i. 264, 292. 
 
 G. 
 
 Gallantin, his ferry on the Colorado, 
 ii. 174, 
 
 with his party, murdered by the 
 
 Yumas, ii. 175. 
 
 Gallatin, Albert, his notice of the 
 Casa Grande, ii. 281. 
 
 Galveston, Texas, arrival at, i. 9. 
 
 second visit to, in 1853, ii. 537. 
 
 Gambucino miners, ii. 448. 
 
 Game and its scarcity, ii. 562. 
 
 Game dinner, mode of cooking with- 
 out utensils, ii. 37. 
 
 Gandera, Don Manuel, Governor of 
 Sonora, i. 459. 
 
 his estates at Tapahui, i. 459. 
 
 his silver mine and its products, 
 
 i. 462. 
 
 Garcia-Conde, General, arrival of, at 
 El Paso, i. 150. 
 
 reaches the Copper Mines, i. 227. 
 
 visit to, on the Mimbres, i. 298. 
 
614 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Garcia Conde, Gen., visit from, con- 
 nected with the captives, i. 309. 
 
 leaves the camp on the San Pe- 
 dro for Santa Cruz, i. 380. 
 
 his death and character, i. 455. 
 
 his survey of Chihuahua, ii. 429. 
 
 his statistical report on Chihua- 
 hua, ii. 429. 
 
 Garcia, Col., meet his command at 
 San Bernardino in search of 
 the Apaches, ii. 328. 
 
 Garcia, Don Ilarion, i. 399-432. 
 
 Garces, Father, his journey to Califor- 
 nia in 1776, ii. 183. 
 
 his visit to the Gila, ii. 267. 
 
 Gardner, Lieut., at Fort Yuma, ii. 
 156. 
 
 Gar Pike in Texas, i. 65. 
 
 Gatton, Mr., U. S. Consul at Mazatlan, 
 i. 487. 
 
 Genegueh Indians of the Colorado, ii. 
 178. 
 
 Geoffroy, St. Hiliare. on domesticated 
 animals, ii. 578. 
 
 Geysers of California, set out for, ii. 
 12. 
 
 description of them, ii. 39. 
 
 Gila River, departure from the Cop- 
 per Mines for the survey of, 
 i. 358. 
 
 its junction with the Colorado, 
 
 ii. 158. 
 
 its delta, ii. 159. 
 
 its bottom-lands, ii. 159, 186, 1S8, 
 
 232, 260, 271, 568. 
 
 a small portion only susceptible 
 
 of cultivation, ii. 205, 599. 
 
 a small stream until it receives 
 
 the Salinas, ii. 244. 
 
 found to be dry, ii. 215, 249. 
 
 scarcity of grass on, ii. 211-215. 
 
 errors in its geography, noticed 
 
 by Kino in 1700, ii. 212. 
 
 corrections in its geography, ibid. 
 
 former population near, ii. 277. 
 
 — — Lieut. Whipple's report of his 
 survey of, ii. 597. 
 
 capabilities of navigation, ii. 160, 
 
 573. 
 
 Girard, Prof. Charles, his estimate of 
 the zoology of the Commis- 
 sion, ii. 548. 
 
 Gliddon, G. R., his essay on camels, 
 and their introduction into 
 the U.S. ii. 576. 
 
 Gold Mines in Sonora, i. 275; ii. 304. 
 
 Goliad, Texas, notice of i. 25. 
 
 massacre of Col. Fannin at, i. 28. 
 
 Gonzales, Senor, of Magdalena, i. 427. 
 
 Good Spring Creek, Texas, i. 79. 
 
 Graham, Col. J. D., appointed Chief 
 Astronomer, i. 150. 
 
 delays of, and arrival at El Paso, 
 
 i. 180, 303, 340. 
 
 joins the Commission at the Cop- 
 per Mines, i. 346. 
 
 his assumptions and recall, i. 
 
 348. 
 
 prevents the reconnoissance of 
 
 the Gulf of California and the 
 Colorado, ii. 165-167. 
 
 his letter on the subject to the 
 
 Hon. A. H. H. Stuart, Sec'y of 
 the Interior, Appendix E. 
 
 result of his labors, ii. 546, 547. 
 
 Grama Grass, i. 87, 243. 
 
 Granite Boulders, i. 129-133. 
 
 Grasses indigenous to Texas, ii. 566. 
 
 Grape, its culture at El Paso, i. 185. 
 
 " in California, ii. 119. 
 
 " at Parras, ii. 483- 
 
 487. 
 
 Gray, A. B., appointed Surveyor, i. 2. 
 
 reaches the Copper Mines, i. 340. 
 
 organizes a party for the survey 
 
 of the Gila, i. 341-356. 
 
 objects to the Initial Point, i. 341. 
 
 ordered to affix his signature to 
 
 the papers establishing the 
 Initial Point, i. 342. 
 
 his removal, ii. 85. 
 
 his survey of the Gila, ii. 543. 
 
 Green Mounds, Texas, i. 79, 80. 
 
 Green, Lt. D. C, his expedition to So- 
 corro, i. 346. 
 
 Gregg, Dr., his notice of La Zarca, ii. 
 468. 
 
 Grizzly Bear, chase after, i. 363. 
 
 Guadalupe River, Texas, i. 21, 54. 
 
 Guadalupe Mountain, Texas, i. 117; 
 ii. 570. 
 
 Pass, Texas, i. 120. 
 
 Pass, Sonora, i. 251, 294; ii. 329. 
 
 old road across it, i. 244. 
 
 town on the Rio Grande, ii. 405. 
 
 Guadalupe Hidalgo, treaty of; its re- 
 quirements in reference to the 
 boundary, i. 1 ; ii. 587. 
 
 Guajuquilla, town of, ii. 453. 
 
 Guaymas, its position and harbor, i. 
 476, 477. 
 
 its trade and commerce, i. 478. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 615 
 
 H. 
 
 Hacienda Arriba, near Parras, ii. 486. 
 
 Abajo, near Parras, ii. 489. 
 
 Blauca, accident at, ii. 456. 
 
 de Concepcion, Chihuahua, ii. 
 
 457. 
 
 del Rio Florida, do. ii. 463. 
 
 H'hana Indians of California, ii. 7. 
 Hale's Ethnology of the Indians, ii. 
 
 278. 
 Hardcastle, Capt., in charge of the 
 
 survey in California, i. 6. 
 Hardy, Lieut., his voyage up the Gulf 
 
 of California, ii. 170. 
 
 notices the petahaya, ii. 193. 
 
 notices Casas Grandes, ii. 361. 
 
 on the Chihuahua dogs, ii. 450. 
 
 Harper, T. drowned in the Colorado, 
 
 ii. 6. 
 Havana, visit to, i. 7. 
 Hawalco Indians of the Colorado, ii. 
 
 179. 
 Heintzelman, Major S. P., arrival of 
 
 messenger from, ii. 152. 
 details Lieut. Paige with escort 
 
 for the Commission, ii. 156. 
 facilities furnished by, to the 
 
 Commission, ii. 158. 
 his command at Fort Yuma, ii. 
 
 162.- 
 
 reduces the Yumas, ii. 173. 
 
 experiments on the velocity of 
 
 the Colorado, ii. 173. 
 
 sends relief to emigrants, ii. 204. 
 
 Hendershott, Lieut., at Fort Yuma, ii. 
 
 152. 
 
 sent against the Yumas, ii. 185. 
 
 Hermosillo, Sonora, description of, i. 
 
 466, 467. 
 
 trade and commerce of, i. 470. 
 
 Hernandez notices the petahaya, ii. 
 
 192. 
 Hervas, Catalogo de los lenguas, ii. 
 
 178, 270. 
 Hewison, Dr., of Saltillo, ii. 497. 
 Hickory Creek, Texas, i. 64. 
 Hipfel, M. Von, his labors, ii. 540. 
 Hitchcock, Gen., visit to, ii. 13. 
 furnishes an escort and other fa- 
 cilities to the Commission, ii. 
 
 14, 107. 
 Horned Frogs and their numbers, ii. 
 
 556. 
 Horn, Capt, of San Bias, i. 490. 
 Horses seen in great numbers at La 
 
 Zarca, ii. 470. 
 
 Horsehead Crossing, Pecos River, i. 
 
 93, 94. 
 Hot Spring, New Mexico, i. 225. 
 Human Bodies found, ii. 337. 
 Humboldt, Baron, on the climate of 
 
 Acapulco, i. 501. 
 
 notice of cylindrical cacti, ii 193. 
 
 his reference to Casa Grande, ii. 
 
 280. 
 on the cultivation of the agave, 
 
 ii. 485. 
 
 on meteorites, ii. 459. 
 
 on the camel, ii. 578, 579. 
 
 I. 
 
 Ibarra, Don Manuel de, his estate 
 
 near Parras, ii 489. 
 Imuriz, Souora, town of, i. 418. 
 Indian tribes referred to. For fuller 
 
 notices see the names of the 
 
 separate tribes. 
 
 Apaches, i. 300-334; ii. 386. 
 
 Bajiopas of California, ii. 178. 
 
 Caddoes of Texas, i. 66. 
 
 Ceris of Sonora, i. 463. 
 
 Cawenas of the Gila, ii. 251. 
 
 Chemkguabas of the Colorado, ii. 
 
 178. 
 
 Coanpas of the Colorado, ii. 178. 
 
 Coco-Maricopas of the Gila, ii. 
 
 220-237, 268. 
 
 Cocopas of the Colorado, ii. 179. 
 
 Comeyas of California, ii. 7, 270. 
 
 Comanciles of Texas, ii. 386. 
 
 Cosninas of New Mexico, ii. 178. 
 
 Cuchans of the Colorado, ii. 179. 
 
 Cutganes of the Colorado, ii. 172. 
 
 Delawares of Texas, i. 59. 
 
 Diegenos of California, ii. 7. 
 
 Diggers of California, ii. 29-34. 
 
 Genigueh of " ii. 178. 
 
 H'hana of " ii. 7. 
 
 Jumbuicrari of " ii. 178. 
 
 Kechi of " ii. 92. 
 
 Lipans of Texas, i. 76 ; ii. 455. 
 
 Mohavis of California, ii. 178. 
 
 Moquis of New Mexico, ii. 178. 
 
 Navajos of " i. 329. 
 
 Opates of Sonora, i. 444, 
 
 Opas of the Gila, in 1775, ii. 268. 
 
 Papacos of Sonora, i. 382 ; ii. 298. 
 
 Pimos of the Gila, ii. 220-258. 
 
 Piros of the Rio Grande, i. 184. 
 
 Quiquimas of California ii. 178. 
 
 San Felipe, " ii. 122. 
 
 Santa Isabel, " ii. 117. 
 
616 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Indian Tribes, San Luis Obispo, Cal., 
 ii. 56. 
 
 San Pasqual, " ii. 115. 
 
 Sinecu of Chihuahua, i. 148. 
 
 Tarahumaras of " 
 
 Tehuas of New Mexico, ii. 178. 
 
 Timbabachi of the Col., ii. 178- 
 
 Tonto Apaches of New Mexico", 
 
 ii. 258. 
 
 Yaqui of Sonora, i. 142. 
 
 Yumas of the Colorado, ii. 149. 
 
 Yampaos of <£ ii. 179. 
 
 Indians, miscellaneous notices of. 
 
 California tribes, their present 
 
 degraded condition, ii. 84. 
 their love for the missionaries, 
 
 ii. 94. 
 notices of, by Viscaino, in 1594, 
 
 ii. 99. 
 
 diversity of their names, how 
 
 accounted for, ii. 30. 
 
 those mentioned by the early mis- 
 sionaries disappeared, ii. 179. 
 
 sagacity shown in capturing the 
 
 murderers of Colonel Craig, ii. 
 144. 
 
 beard peculiar to the California 
 
 tribes, ii. 34. 
 
 condition of the mission tribes at 
 
 Los Angeles, California, ii. 82. 
 
 suggestions for ameliorating the 
 
 condition, and for the govern- 
 ing of the tribes on the Mexi- 
 can frontier, ii. 384-390. 
 
 depredations, the great extent 
 
 of, in New Mexico, from offi- 
 cial records, ii. 385. 
 
 attack the train when on the 
 
 march, ii. 412. 
 their great destruction of animal 
 
 life, ii. 447. 
 Indian Sign, i. 72, 95, 105. 
 
 Mortars, for pounding corn, ii. 
 
 370, 411. 
 Indianola, Texas, arrival at, i. 9. 
 its commercial advantages, i. 13 ; 
 
 ii. 536. 
 Inez Gonzales, the Mexican captive 
 
 girl, i. 303. 
 leaves the Copper Mines with the 
 
 commission, i. 357. 
 meets her father on the Babo- 
 
 comori, i. 398. 
 
 is restored to her mother, i. 402. 
 
 pass the canon where she was 
 
 captured, i. 415. 
 
 Inez Gonzales, meeting with again at 
 Tubac, and her sad fate, ii. 
 . 303, 316. 
 
 Initial Point on Rio Grande, at 32° 
 22', visited cffieially, i. 200. 
 
 history of the agreement in re- 
 ference to, i. 201. 
 
 particulars of its establishment, 
 
 i. 204. 
 
 document deposited at, i. 206. 
 
 letter from the commissioner to 
 
 the secretary of the interior, 
 in relation to, i. 208. 
 
 objected to by A. B. Gray, i. 341. 
 
 approved by the U. S., and Mr. 
 
 Gray ordered to affix his sig- 
 nature, establishing it at 32° 
 22', i. 342. 
 
 order from the secretary of the 
 
 interior to Major Emory, to 
 sign the documents establish- 
 ing it, i. 343. 
 
 Major Emory's letter in reply, 
 
 stating that he had obeyed in- 
 structions, i 344. 
 
 official MS. map found in Chi- 
 huahua, defining the bound- 
 ary, ii. 429. 
 
 as laid down in the constitution 
 
 of Chihuahua, ii. 430. 
 
 - — - on the Pacific, ii. 104. 
 
 Instructions (official), ii. 588. 
 
 Irrigation, uncertainty of, on the Rio 
 Grande, i. 187. 
 
 Isleta, Texas, town of, i. 193. 
 
 Iturbide, the emperor — his monument, 
 ii. 435. 
 
 Don Felipe de, i. 151. 
 
 Jackass Rabbit, i. 76. 
 
 Janos road to Sonora, ii. 332. 
 
 presidio of, ii. 338. 
 
 Jenkins, J. joins the commission on the 
 
 desert with despatches, ii. 131. 
 Jesuits, their usefulness in Mex. ii. 431. 
 their success as missionaries, ii. 
 
 432, 
 Jimenes, or Guajuquilla, ii. 453. 
 Joint Com., first meeting of, i. 151. 
 Jornada del Muerto, N. Mexico, i. 215. 
 Jawbuicrariri Indians, ii. 178. 
 Juniper Serro, Father, names San 
 
 Francisco, ii. 10. 
 his letter from Monterey, Cal., in 
 
 1770, ii. 752. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 617 
 
 Juniper Serro, Father, his letter from 
 San Diego, in 1769, ii. 100-103. 
 
 K. 
 
 Kaemtz on meteorites, ii. 459. 
 Kapp, Dr. E. Texas, visit to, i. 56. 
 Kearney, General, traces of his camps, 
 
 ii. 197, 271. 
 
 his action at San Pasqual, ii. 113. 
 
 Keller's farm, Napa valley, ii. 24. 
 Kickapoo creek, Texas, i. 73. 
 Kilburn's farm, in Napa valley, ii. 24. 
 great yield of vegetables on, ii. 
 
 25-49. 
 Kino, Father, on the Colorado, in 1700, 
 
 ii. 178. 
 proves Lower California to be a 
 
 peninsula, ii. 1S3. 
 
 his journeys to the Gila, ii. 183. 
 
 corrects the geography of the 
 
 Gila in 1700, ii. 212. 
 
 visits the Pimo Indians, ii. 267. 
 
 visits the Casa Grande, on the 
 
 Gila, in 1694, ii. 281. 
 church at San Xavier, built by 
 
 him in 1700, ii. 299. 
 Knights farm, Napa valley, ii. 28. 
 Koeblerina, plant, i. 94. 
 
 Labor, prices of, at El Paso, i. 191. 
 Lagdna, near the Gila, ii. 199. 
 
 de Encinillas, ii. 416. 
 
 de Patos, Chihuahua, ii. 406. 
 
 de Santa Maria, ditto, ii. 371. 
 
 del Madre, Texas, ii. 530. 
 
 Lagunas, on the Gulf of Mexico, ii. 
 
 530-532. 
 Lakes on the Mexican tabledand have 
 
 no outlets, ii. 416. 
 Langberg, Col. Emilio, i. 151 ; ii. 398. 
 accompanies the author to Fort 
 
 Fillmore, ii. 390. 
 furnishes escort to Chihuahua, ii. 
 
 397. 
 Langdon, Dr. establishes the ferry on 
 
 the Colorado, ii. 174. 
 his party killed by the Yumas, 
 
 ii. 175. 
 La Parida, river, Texas, ii. 529. 
 Larrea Mexicana, i. 87 : ii. 130, 136, 
 
 210, 290. 
 Las Garzas, Chihuahua, ii. 450. 
 Lasso thrown by the Lipans, i. 82. 
 Las Playas, Chihuahua, i. 246. 
 La Playa, California, ii. 96. 
 
 La Salle, town of, Texas, i. 12. 
 
 and his explorations, i. 12. 
 
 La Vaca, town of, Texas, ii. 536. 
 
 Lea, Judge, of Goliad, i. 27. 
 
 Leroux, Antoine, engaged with his 
 
 pack mules and men, ii. 85. 
 
 sent to San Bernardino, ii. 118. 
 
 Limestone ^inkp, Texas, i. 110. 
 Lipan Indians, Texas, i. 76. 
 
 extent of the tribe, i. 81. 
 
 of the Bolson of Mapimi, ii. 455. 
 
 Lipan Camp creek, Texas, i. 82. 
 Lizards and their variety, ii. 556. 
 Llano River, Texas, i. 64-66. 
 settlement on, destroyed by the 
 
 Comanches, i. 64. 
 Lobelia Cardinalis, i. 53. 
 Loma Blanca, Texas, ii. 521. 
 Loma Point, California, ii. 94. 
 
 de Independence, ii. 503. 
 
 Long, Major, notice of prairie-dogs, ii. 
 
 559. 
 Los Olmos, Texas, ii. 522. 
 Loeeto, Lower California, account of, 
 
 i. 483-484. 
 Los Angeles, Cal., visit to, ii. 81. 
 
 grassy plains near, ii 106. 
 
 Lower California supposed to be an 
 
 island until 1698, ii. 183. 
 
 M. 
 
 McClellan, Col. J., notice of his re- 
 moval, i. 150. 
 Magdalena, Sonora, arrival at, i. 422. 
 ordered before the alcalde at, L 
 
 422. 
 
 festival of San Francisco at, i. 425. 
 
 grand procession of do., i. 431. 
 
 description of the town, i. 432. 
 
 Magoffin, J. W., of El Paso, facilities 
 
 furnished by, i. 143. 
 Magoffinsville, Texas, i. 193; ii. 383. 
 Magruder, Col. J. B., San Diego, ii. 
 
 104. 
 
 acknowledgments to, ii. 107. 
 
 his successful efforts in taking 
 
 the murderer of Col. Craig, ii. 
 
 144. 
 Maguey and its uses, i. 290 ; ii. 484. 
 
 plantations at Parras, ii. 484. 
 
 Maize cultivated on the Colorado in 
 
 1542. ii. 182. 
 Mammalia of the regions traversed, ii. 
 
 555. 
 Manacita tree, California, ii. 43. 
 Manaiiuila, camp at, i. 24. 
 
618 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Mange, Capt, his explorations in the 
 Gulf of California in 1698, ii. 
 183. 
 
 his visit to Casa Grande, ii. 265, 
 
 281. 
 
 Mangus Colorado, chief of the Apach- 
 es, i. 300, 311, 319. 
 
 McCall, Gen., arrives at Ft. Yuma, ii. 
 156. 
 
 Manzanilla Bay, entrance to, i. 494. 
 
 description of, i. 495, 496. 
 
 Marin, town of, ii. 506. 
 
 Matagorda Bay, and its ports, i. 13; 
 ii. 536. 
 
 Mazatlan, description of, i. 485-487. 
 
 Medanos, Los, of Chihuahua, ii. 372- 
 376. 
 
 Medina, Col., of Janos, ii. 340. 
 
 Mercury, its effects on miners, ii. 66. 
 
 Mesilla Valley, its value, i. 188, 346. 
 
 its history, i. 212; ii. 391. 
 
 Metates, where found, ii. 245, 276, 
 361. 
 
 Meteorite, found at Tucson, ii. 297. 
 
 at the Hacienda de Concepcion, 
 
 ii. 457. 
 
 near Guajuquilla, ii. 455. 
 
 notes on, from Kaemtz, Hum- 
 boldt, and others, ii. 459, 460. 
 
 Meteors seen to fall, ii. 461. 
 
 Meteros River, Monterey, ii. 506. 
 
 Mexican Women, their dress, i. 147. 
 
 Mezcal, how made, i. 290. 
 
 Mezquit tree and its uses, i. 76. 
 
 bean, ground and used as food, 
 
 ii. 218, 232. 
 
 roots, used for smelting, ii. 344. 
 
 for rail ties, ii. 574. 
 
 Mezquiquite, loaves of, ii. 182. 
 
 Mier, arrival at, ii. 507. 
 
 serapes of, ibid. 
 
 expedition from Texas, ii. 508. 
 
 Miles, Col., Fort Fillmore, ii. 390. 
 
 Miliiau, Dr., at Fort Yuma, ii. 152, 
 184. 
 
 Military posts on the frontier, sug- 
 gestions for more active ope- 
 rations at, ii. 388. 
 
 Mimbres River, N. Mexico, i. 221. 
 
 Mirage seen at Las Playas, i. 246. 
 
 note on, by Humboldt, i. 247. 
 
 Missouri Currant, i. 223, 288. 
 
 Moiiavi River, California, ii. 178. 
 
 Moiiavi Indians, ibid. 
 
 Molasses made from the petahaya, ii. 
 218. 
 
 Monterey, California, first expedition 
 of Juniper Serro to in 1769, ii. 
 _ 10, 75. 
 
 visit to and description of, ii. 72 
 
 -78. 
 
 Monterey, Mexico, arrival at, ii. 502. 
 
 description of, ii. 502-505. 
 
 Monument at the Initial point, on the 
 Pacific, ii. 104. 
 
 Mormon settlement, Texas, i. 58. 
 
 Moqui Indians, N. Mexico, ii. 178. 
 
 their cultivation of wheat, ii. 
 
 263. 
 
 Mount Helena, Cal., Russian inscrip- 
 tion on, ii. 28. 
 
 Mules, how shod in stocks, i. 16. 
 
 lost in Texas, i. 71, 100. 
 
 lost at the Copper Mines, i. 343, 
 
 346, 349. 
 
 lost at Frontera, i. 346. 
 
 lost on California desert, ii. 2-3. 
 
 their value in Coahuila, ii. 493. 
 
 stampeded by the Apaches, ii. 
 
 412. 
 
 by mustangs, ii. 522. 
 
 Mule Spring, New Mexico, i. 218. 
 
 Mustangs seen in Sonora, i. 383. 
 
 mode of catching in Texas, ii. 
 
 521. 
 
 their numbers in Texas, ii. 521- 
 
 525. 
 
 stampede of mules by, ii. 522- 
 
 524. 
 
 Ponds, Texas, i. 87, 90. 
 
 Island, do. ii. 530. 
 
 N. 
 Napa Valley, Cal., journey through, 
 ii. 14-19. 
 
 Indians of, ii. 30-34. 
 
 Nasas River and Valley, ii, 472. 
 Navajo Indians, visit from, i. 329. 
 
 BLANKETS, i. 330. 
 
 New Mexico, its early history, i. 182, 
 
 New Mexican Traders, i 303. 
 
 New RivER, Cal., sudden appearance 
 
 of water in it, ii. 135. 
 Norther and snow storm in Texas, L 
 
 411. 
 
 at Corpus Christi, ii. 520. 
 
 Nomenclature of Mexican towns, ii. 
 
 371. 
 Noria, La, Durango, ii. 465. 
 — ■ — Curena, ii. 475. 
 
 de Pedrecena, ii. 473. 
 
 de Pozo Calvo, ii. 476. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 619 
 
 Novato Valley, Cal., i. 51. 
 
 Nueces Bay and River, Texas, ii. 529. 
 
 0. 
 
 Oatman family, remains of, murdered 
 by the Indians near the Gila, 
 ii. 203. 
 
 particulars of the event, ib. 
 
 statement of the Indians on the 
 
 event, ii. 218, 257, 258. 
 
 Oats, wild, of California, ii. 14. 
 
 Obsidian hills, California, ii. 49. 
 
 use of by the Indians, ii. 50. 
 
 Ojo del Alamo, Texas, i. 130. 
 
 Caliente, New Mexico, i. 225. 
 
 Chihuahua, ii. 410. 
 
 DE GALLEGO, do., ii. 415. 
 
 de Inez, N. Mexico, i. 362. 
 
 de Lucero, Chihuahua, ii. 406. 
 
 de Vaca, N. Mexico, i. 243, 361. 
 
 Onions, great crop of in California, ii. 
 
 24, 49. 
 Opa Indians, R. Gila, in 1775, ii. 268. 
 Opate Indians of Sonora, i. 444, 445. 
 
 battle with the Apaches, i. 454. 
 
 Opodepe, Sonora, i. 434. 
 
 Opuntia arborescens, i. 128. 
 
 Organ Mountains, N. Mex., i. 134, 195. 
 
 visit to, ii. 392. 
 
 Osborne, J. W., of Napa, ii. 14. 
 Ostrea shells found at Mier, ii. 511. 
 Ottinger, Capt., voyage with from 
 
 Monterey to San Diego, ii. 71. 
 to the Coronados, ii. 86. 
 
 Pacheco, Padre of Santa Cruz, ii. 312. 
 Pacheteiiu, spring at, i. 242. 
 Pack-mules, mode of fitting out, i. 
 
 358. 
 Paige, Lt. G. W., commands escort to 
 
 the Pimo villages, ii. 157. 
 
 186. 
 
 , his return to Fort Yuma, ii. 259. 
 
 Palmetto, last seen in Texas, i. 53. 
 Palo Veude, ii. 194, 210, 290. 
 Palou, Father, ii. 78. 
 Papago Indians, i. 382 ; ii. 298. 
 Parras, description, of, ii. 482, 489. 
 
 its vineyards, ii. 483, 487. 
 
 Paso Cavallo, Texas, ii. 536. 
 Patos, Hacienda de, ii. 492. 
 Paul, May, Ringgold Barracks, ii. 512. 
 Paysano, and its habits, ii. 563. 
 Peach Trees, in California, i. 24. 
 Pecan nuts in Texas, i. 75, 84. 
 
 Peccari, a tame one seen, i. 55. 
 
 Pecos River, its character, i. 93, 101. 
 
 narrow escape in crossing, i. 
 
 97. 
 
 Peons, village of in Coahuila, ii. 493. 
 
 Pena, La, Coahuila, ii. 478. 
 
 Penol, El. Chihuahua, ii. 417. 
 
 Pepper-tree, in California, ii. 90. 
 
 Petahaya, description of, ii. 188, 190. 
 209. 
 
 where found, i. 497 ; ii. 416, vol. 
 
 ii. 189, 209, 248, 272, 290, 
 296. 
 
 early notices of by Venegas, 
 
 Salvatierra, Alcedo, and Her- 
 nandez, ii. 191, 192. 
 
 recent notices by Humboldt, 
 
 Pattie, Hardy, etc. ii. 192, 193. 
 
 Indians shooting at, ii. 237. 
 
 Peyri, Father, founds the Mission of 
 San Luis Rey, ii. 93. 
 
 Piedernales River, Texas, i. 58. 
 
 Pimo Indians, their manners and cus- 
 toms, ii, 220, 237. 
 
 their spinning and weaving, ii. 
 
 225, 226. 
 
 conference with, ii, 255, 258. 
 
 their arts and agriculture, ii. 
 
 262, 264. 
 
 their physical type, ii. 263. 
 
 early accounts of them, ii. 268. 
 
 Pinaleno Indians,' i. 308. 
 
 Pinos Point, California, i. 73. 
 
 Pinus Edulis, i. 234. 
 
 Piro Indians of the R. Grande, i. 184. 
 
 Pitic, Sonora, i. 466. 
 
 Plateau of Texas, i. 72, 87, 138; ii. 
 
 565. 
 
 of Mexico, ii. 567, 568. 
 
 Pluton River, California, visit to, ii. 
 
 36, 42. 
 Pomegranates, where seen, i. 284, 
 
 414, 420 ; ii. 484. 
 
 distillation from, i. 421. 
 
 Portulacca, used as food, i. 390, 
 Pozito, Sonora, marsh of, i. 474. 
 Pozo, El, Coahuila, arrival at, ii. 479. 
 fight between the Lipans, and 
 
 Col. Doniphan's troops at, ii. 
 
 480. 
 Pottery, of the Indians, ii. 226. 
 
 ancient found, ii. 243, 247, 360. 
 
 Prairie-dogs, where seen, i. 99, 72, 
 
 76, 87, 110, 128, 249. 
 
 their natural history, ii. 557, 
 
 561. 
 
620 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Prairie Fowls, i, 15. 
 
 on fire, i. 15, 16, 88. __ 
 
 passed by the train, ii. 525. 
 
 Pratt, H. C, his collection of sketches, 
 ii. 545. 
 
 Presidios, of Sonora, i. 407. 
 
 Prioleau, J. H., his surveys, i. 117; ii. 
 548. 
 
 Pronunciamentos in Mexico, ii. 502. 
 
 Pulque, how obtained from the ma- 
 guey, ii. 484. 
 
 Puntiagudo, village of, ii. 507. 
 
 Q. 
 
 Quicksilver Mine, of New Almaden, 
 California, visit to, ii. 57. 
 
 its produce in 1853, ii. 62. 
 
 Mines of the world, ii. 59. 
 
 Quinces, abundance of in Sonora, i. 
 284. 
 
 Quinquima Indians, Cal., ii. 178. 
 
 R. 
 
 Rabbits, their extent, i. 76; ii. 555. 
 
 Radziminski, C, arrival of at the Cop- 
 per Mines, i. 341. 
 
 goes to Washington with des- 
 patch es, i. 248. 
 
 his surveys, ii. 546, 547. 
 
 Railway from Indianola to El Paso, 
 survey for.i 14. 
 
 practicable route for, i. 139, 140. 
 
 report on said route, and thence 
 
 to the Pacific, ii. 570, 575. 
 
 Ramos, town of, ii. 506. 
 
 Ramada, Chihuahua, ii. 452. 
 
 Randall, D. A., journey with to New 
 Almaden, ii. 54. 
 
 Rattlesnake, its numbers, ii. 557. 
 
 its connection with the prairie- 
 dogs, ii. 561. 
 
 horses bitten by, i. 84 ; ii. 342. 
 
 Rayon, Sonora, i. 434. 
 
 Redwood, of California, notice of, ii. 
 16, 21, 57. 
 
 Red River, its source, ii. 665. 
 
 Riddells, 13., U. S. Consul, Chihuahua, 
 ii. 426. 
 
 Rinconada Pass, encampment in, ii. 
 500. 
 
 Ringgold Barracks, Texas, ii. 512, 
 519. 
 
 Rio Grande, obstructed by ice, i. 158. 
 
 difficulties in fording, i. 167, L87. 
 
 its survey commenced, i. 177. 
 
 productions of its valley, i. 185. 
 
 Rio Grande, its bottom-lands, i. 188, 
 
 200; ii. 392. 
 
 its valley near Mier, ii. 508. 
 
 its ascent by a steamer, ii. 509. 
 
 its crossing at Camargo, ii. 512. 
 
 upsetting of a wagon in, ii. 404. 
 
 Rio Florido, its valley, ii. 450, 452, 
 
 454. 
 
 hacienda at, ii. 457, 463. 
 
 meteorite at, ii. 458. 
 
 Ritter, Karl, on the camel, ii. 580. 
 Robinson, J. A., U. S. Consul, Guay- 
 
 mas, i. 476. 
 Rocky Mountains, abrupt termination 
 
 of, ii. 567. 
 Russian River, California, ii. 36. 
 
 S. 
 Sabine Creek, Texas, camp on, i. 53, 
 
 54. 
 Sacket's Well, California desert^ ii. 
 
 129. 
 Sacramento Mts. Texas, i. 121. 
 
 battle of, ii. 420. 
 
 valley, Cal. ii. 106. 
 
 Salado, Chihuahua, ii. 371. 
 
 Salazar, Don Jose, his report on the 
 
 Initial Point, i. 202. 
 Sal Colorado, Texas, ii. 520. 
 Saline efflorescence, Texas, i. 100, 103. 
 
 Chihuahua, ii. 417. 
 
 lakes, Texas, i. 122, 125. 
 
 Salinas River, its bottom-lands, ii. 
 
 240, 244. 
 
 ancient cultivation on, ii. 242. 
 
 ancient remains on, ii. 242, 245. 
 
 Samalayuca, Chihuahua, i. 377. 
 Sanchez, Don Jacobo of Coahuila, his 
 
 immense estate, ii. 492. 
 Sand-Drifts, near the Colorado, ii. 
 
 149, 150. 
 
 in Chihuahua, ii. 372. 
 
 difficult passage of, ii. 371, 376. 
 
 Sanford, S. P., arrives with despatches, 
 
 i. 303. 
 Sandstone Columns, near Arispe, i. 
 
 280. 
 
 near the Mimbres, i 224. 
 
 San Antonio, Texas, arrival at, i. 33. 
 
 departure from, i. 48. 
 
 description of, i. 39. 
 
 San Bernardino, Sonora, i. 255; ii. 
 
 328. 
 Cal. purchased by the Mormons, 
 
 ii. 120. 
 San Blas, visit to, i. 490. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 621 
 
 San 
 San 
 San 
 
 San 
 
 San 
 
 San 
 
 San 
 San 
 
 San 
 San 
 
 San 
 
 San 
 San 
 San 
 
 San 
 San- 
 
 San 
 
 San 
 
 Carlos, Sonora, presidio of, i. 407. 
 
 - Mission, California, ii. 76. 
 Diego, N. Mexico, ford at, i. 215. 
 
 - California, arrival at, i. 505. 
 
 - Commission meets at, i. 2. 
 
 ■ description of its harbor, ii. 94. 
 
 • its agricultural productions, ii. 88. 
 
 ■ fertile lands near, ii. 97. 
 
 - discovered by Viscaino, ii. 98. 
 visited by Juniper Serro in 1769, 
 
 ii. 100. 
 
 • mission at, ii. 103. 
 Eleazario, Texas, town of, i. 193. 
 Felipe, Cal. and its Indians, ii. 122. 
 Francisco, Sonora, annual feast 
 
 of, i. 411, 424. 
 
 • legend of its origin, i. 424. 
 
 ■ account of the festival of, i. 428. 
 
 - cure of diseases by, i. 427. 
 
 ■ California, its growth and pros- 
 
 perity, ii. 8. 
 
 • its commerce and business, ii. 9. 
 
 - origin of its name, ii. 10. 
 Francisco River, or Verde, ii. 243. 
 
 - Texas, ii. 525. 
 
 Gabriel Mission, Cal. ii. 83. 
 Ignacio, Sonora, town of, i. 419. 
 
 - River of, i. 416. 
 
 Joaciiin, Cal., its valley, ii. 106. 
 Jose, Cal., its fertile valley, ii. 54. 
 
 - visit to the town of, ii. 56. 
 
 ■ mission of, Texas, i. 44. 
 
 Juan River, at Camnrgo, ii. 511. 
 Lazaro, Sonora, visit to i. 412; ii. 
 
 211. 
 Lucas, Cape, change of climate at, 
 
 i. 504. 
 Luis Obispo, Cal., Indians of, ii. 56. 
 Luis Rey, Cal., Mission of, ij. 89. 
 Miguel River, Sonora, i. 413. 
 
 - Chihuahua, ii. 337. 
 
 - bottom-land of, ii. 342. 
 
 - River, Texas, ii. 529. 
 Pablo, Chihuahua, ii. 445." 
 Pasqual, Cal., mountain at, ii. 113, 
 
 116, 
 
 - action at, during the war, ii. 113. 
 
 - its Indians, ii. 115. 
 
 Pedro, California, arrival at and 
 description of, ii. 79. 
 
 - Springs, Texas, camp at, i. 38. 
 
 - River, Sonora, i. 377. 
 
 - its valley, i. 379. 
 
 - del G-allo, ii. 470. 
 
 - Creek, Chihuahua, ii. 445. 
 Saba River, Texas, i. 68. 
 
 San Rafael Valley, California, ii. 51. 
 San Xavier del Bac, Sonora, ii. 298. 
 Santa Ana, General, his position at 
 
 Angostura, ii. 494. 
 Santa Barbara, N. Mexico, i. 217. 
 Santa Catarina, near Monterey, i. 501. 
 Santa Clara, 'Cal., Mission of, ii. 55. 
 Santa Cruz, Sonora, description of, i. 
 
 407. 
 
 second visit to, ii. 314, 320. 
 
 inroads of the Apaches at, ii. 317. 
 
 River, i. 412 ; ii. 293, 295, 305. 
 
 Valley, ii. 297, 300, 307. 
 
 Chihuahua, ii. 445. 
 
 Santa Eulalta, Chihuahua, ii. 434. 
 Santa Gertrude River, Texas, ii. 525. 
 Santa Isabel, California, ii. 115. 
 
 ancient mission at, ii. 117. 
 
 Santa Maria River, Chihuahua, ii. 378. 
 
 laguna de, ii. 37 1. 
 
 Santa Rita del Cobre, hist, of, i. 227. 
 
 mountiin, Sonora, i. 407 ; ii. 308. 
 
 Santa Rosa Island, California, ii. 79. 
 Santa Rosalia, Chihuahua, ii. 450. 
 Santa Teresa, Texas, ii. 520. 
 Saltillo, account of the city, ii. 496, 
 
 498. 
 Saucillo, Chihuahua, ii. 446. 
 Sauz, El, Chihuahua, ii. 419. 
 Sciiott, A., his zoological collection, ii. 
 
 550. 
 Scorpions, their numbers, ii. 556. 
 Sculptured rocks on the Gila, ii. 195, 
 
 206. 
 Scurvy, its appearance, i. 237 ; ii. 379. 
 Sea Lions, in California, ii. 88. 
 Sebilla River, Texas, i. 31. 
 Sedelmayer, his exploration of the 
 
 Colorado, ii. 183. 
 notices the Cocomaricopas in 
 
 1744, ii. 269. 
 Shells, Sea, among the ruins on the 
 
 Salinas, ii. 245. 
 oyster, found on the Rio Grande, 
 
 ii. 510. 
 Shepard, Major, sends troops to our 
 
 aid, i. 350. 
 Sierra Madre, its mineral wealth, ii. 
 
 564. 
 impassable south of Cooke's 
 
 road, ii. 332. 
 
 de los Animas, i. 249. 
 
 Mitre, Monterey, ii. 501. 
 
 Signs on the plains, i. 106. 
 
 Silver mines, Correlitos, ii. 344, 366. 
 
 Organ mountains, ii. 392. 
 
622 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Silver mines of Governor Gandera, 
 Sonora, i. 462. 
 
 near Cueneame, ii. 4*75. 
 
 La Nona Pedrecena, ii. 473. 
 
 Viesca, Coahuila, ii. 478. 
 
 Santa Enlalia, ii. 434. 
 
 Chihuahua, ii. 431,' 438. 
 
 Guajuquilla, ii. 453. 
 
 Santa Cruz, ii. 446. 
 
 Saucillo, ii. 447, 448. 
 
 Sin-ecu, Pueblo of, i. 183. 
 
 Snook's rancho, California, ii. 112. 
 
 Snow Storm at Delaware Creek, i. 111. 
 
 Smoking, practised by the ladies in 
 Mexico, ii. 429. 
 
 Socorro, Texas, town of i. 193. 
 
 murderers executed at, i. 163. 
 
 Solidad Mountain, Texas, i. 135 
 
 hill, near San Diego, i. 112 
 
 Sonoma Valley, California, ii. 51. 
 
 Sonora, its agricultural productions, 
 i. 440, 469. 
 
 its exports, i. 447. 
 
 deficiency of wagon roads, i. 457. 
 
 its Indian tribes, i. 446. 
 
 its streams and arable lands, i. 
 
 459, 462 ; ii. 569. 
 
 River and its sources, i. 267, 285, 
 
 440, 468. 
 
 its various names, i. 416. 
 
 Spanish hist, documents at San An- 
 tonio, i. 41. 
 
 Staked Plain of New Mexico, ii. 565. 
 
 St. Joseph's Island, Texas, ii. 534. 
 
 Storm on the Gila Desert, ii. 286. 
 
 Stockton, Commodore, relieves the 
 American army at San Pas- 
 qual, ii. 113. 
 
 his eminent services in Califor- 
 nia, ibid. 
 
 Strain, Lieut. I. G. his plan for a sur- 
 vey of the Gulf of California 
 and the Colorado River, ii. 
 163, 165. 
 
 Stuart, Hon. A. H. H. his letter to 
 Daniel Webster relating to the 
 boundary, i. 210. 
 his letter to A. B. Gray request- 
 ing him to sign the agreement 
 fixing the Initial Point, i. 343. 
 
 his letter to Maj. Emory on the 
 
 same subject, i. 343. 
 
 his making known the act of 
 
 Congress, which caused the 
 suspension of the Survey, ii. 
 514, 
 
 Sugar Cane, its cultivation in Sonora, 
 
 i. 469. 
 
 at Monterey, ii. 505. 
 
 Sutter, Capt., his early history, and 
 
 settlement in California, ii. 68, 
 
 70. 
 Sweeny, Lieut., meeting with, on the 
 
 California Desert, ii. 130. 
 
 at Fort Yuma, ii. 152. 
 
 Sycamore Tree, i. 53 ; ii. 53. 
 
 T. 
 
 Tamaules, how made, i. 207. 
 Tanori, Chief of the Opates, i. 444. 
 
 defeats the Apaches, i. 453. 
 
 Tapahui, Sonora, visit to, i. 459. 
 Taraijumaras of Sonora, i. 416. 
 Tarantulas, their numbers, ii. 556. 
 Tardillo River, Texas, 529. 
 Tehua Indians of N Mex., ii. 178. 
 Temperature on the Gila, ii. 198, 283, 
 
 285. 
 
 at Fort Yuma, ii. 184. 
 
 changes of, in the winter, ii. 3. 
 
 Tennant, John, murder of, i. 34. 
 Terraced Hills, Texas, i. 57, 133. 
 Tetas de Cabre, Sonora, i. 476. 
 Texas, its advantages for inland trade 
 
 with Mexico, i. 40. 
 fertility of its prairies, ii. 519, 
 
 566.' 
 
 extent of its table-land, ii. 565. 
 
 Thorne's Well, Texas, i. 130. 
 Thurber, George, his journey to El 
 
 Paso for relief, i. 125. 
 his visit to the Germans on the 
 
 Llano, i. 64. 
 
 his botanical collection, ii. 550. 
 
 takes the train to San Antonio, ii. 
 
 518. 
 Timbabaciii Indians, ii. 178. 
 Tlagualila, laguna de, ii. 472. 
 Tonto Indians of N. Mexico, ii. 179. 
 Totonilco, Chihuahua, ii. 456. 
 Tortillas, how made, i. 107. 
 Toy ah Creek, Texas, i. 103. 
 Trains, for transportation, their cost, 
 
 ii. 436. 
 Trias, Gen. his estates at Penol, ii. 418, 
 his character and influence, ii. 
 
 426. 
 official dinner and ball given by 
 
 him to the Commission, ii. 427. 
 dinner to him and his officers, ii. 
 
 429. 
 furnishes an escort, ii. 442. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 623 
 
 Trout of the Gila and Salinas, ii. 192, 
 
 107, 244. 
 
 of the San Miguel, ii. 337. 
 
 Tuape, Sonora, i. 434. 
 Tubac, Sonora, ii. 302, 304. 
 Tucson Desert, Sonora, ii. 286, 290. 
 
 visit to, ii. 292, 195. 
 
 Tulare Plains, California, ii. 106. 
 Tumacacori, Sonora, ii. 308. 
 Turnbull, Mr., his ascent of the R. 
 
 Colorado, ii. 172. 
 
 Vallecita, Cal., camp at, i. 124, 125. 
 Vallejo, Cal. notice of, ii. 14. 
 Vancouver's account of the valleys of 
 
 California, ii. 55. 
 Van Horne, Maj., El Paso, i. 113, 162. 
 Vegetables, great want of, ii. 194. 
 Vegetation of the deserts and plains, 
 
 ii. 563. 
 Velasco, Don. F. of Hermosillo, i. 466. 
 Venagron, a poisonous insect, ii. 557. 
 Venegas, Notices of the Assumption 
 
 River and the Coco Maricopas, 
 
 ii. 269. 
 his notice of the petahaya, ii. 
 
 191. 
 Vequeria, near Parras, ii. 490. 
 Verde River, its junction with the 
 
 Salinas, ii. 243. 
 Victoria, Texas, i. 16, 20. 
 Viscayno, his voyages to California in 
 
 1594, ii. 88, 98, 101. 
 Vitis (Estivalis, i. 56. 
 Viviparous Fishes discovered at San 
 
 Diego, Cal., ii. 564. 
 Volcanic Action, evidences of ii. 39, 
 
 50. 
 
 W. 
 
 Waco Mountain, Texas, i. 131, 133. 
 
 excursion to, i. 168. 
 
 i. 286, 293, 297. 
 
 Wagons broken, ii. 117, 139, 292,305, 
 
 476,479,493,499. 
 numbers of, found on California 
 
 Desert, ii. 139. 
 bought of emigrants at Tubac, ii. 
 
 306. 
 found abandoned on the Gila, ii. 
 
 197. 
 
 upset, ii. 128, 330, 456. 
 
 Wakejian, U. B. killed, i. 153. 
 Wallace, Dr. of Sonora, i. 436. 
 Walnut Creek, Chihuahua, ii. 367. 
 
 Water Fowl, immense numbers of, 
 seen on the Gulf of Mexico, ii. 
 533. 
 
 Water Spouts seen off Cape Hatteras, 
 i. 7. 
 
 Webb, Dr. T. H., his report on the 
 Copper Mine region, i. 178. 
 
 his visit to Guaymas, i. 436, 
 
 437. 
 
 leaves Ures for the Gila, i. 450. 
 
 his arrival at San Diego and re- 
 port of his journe}', ii. 1,-5. 
 
 his report relating to the death 
 
 of Colonel Craig, ii. 141,-143. 
 
 hiszoologienl collection, ii. 548. 
 
 hismineralogical do., ii. 550. 
 
 Webster, Fort, ii. 568. 
 
 Whipple, Lieut. A.W. appointed chief 
 Astronomer, i. 177. 
 
 determines the position of El 
 
 Paso, i. 193. 
 his official report on the Initial 
 
 Point, i. 202. 
 appointed Surveyor, i. 204. 
 
 recognized as Surveyor by the 
 
 United States, i. 211. 
 
 organizes party for the Gila sur- 
 vey, i. 356. 
 
 his official report on the survey 
 
 of the Gila, ii. 597, and appen- 
 dix D. 
 
 account of his survey from Indi- 
 
 anola to El Paso, i. 14; ii. 539. 
 
 results of his labors, ii. 541-543, 
 
 547. 
 
 Wild Cattle in Sonora, i. 258, 294, 
 417. 
 
 Wild China Ponds, Texas, i. 90. 
 
 Wine of El Paso, i. 186. 
 
 of Parras, ii. 483, 486, 488. 
 
 Wislizenus, Dr. excellence of his me- 
 moir on New Mexico, ii. 455. 
 
 Wolves, their numbers, ii. 555. 
 
 Wool, General, favorable impression 
 left by him in Mexico, ii. 4S9. 
 
 Wood, its scarcity, ii. 325, 344, 446. 
 
 Wright, Charles, his zoological collec- 
 tion, ii. 550. 
 
 Yampa Indians, Colorado R. ii. 179. 
 
 Yaqui Indians of Sonora, their posi- 
 tion and character, i. 442, 444. 
 
 Yaunt, Mr. of Napa Valley, ii. 19. 
 
 Young, Alex, trial and execution of, 
 i. 165. 
 
624 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Yucca, The, and its uses, i. 196, 254; 
 
 ii. 445, 490, 493. 
 Yuma Indians, reach the country of, 
 
 ii. 149. 
 they plunder the Commission, ii. 
 
 153. 
 incidents connected with, ii. 150, 
 
 172, 173, 177. - 
 they destroy a fort, and massacre 
 
 Gallantin and his party, ii. 174, 
 
 175. 
 massacre of emigrants by, ii. 
 
 170. 
 
 Yuma Fort, Col., arrival at, ii. 152. 
 
 position of, ii. 158. 
 
 old Spanish mission at, ii. 161. 
 
 Zapata, Chihuahua, ii. 457. 
 
 Zarca, La, Chihuahua, ii. 457. 
 
 a great cattle ran<j;e, Durango, ii. 
 
 468. 
 
 Zodiac, Texas, 158. 
 
 Zoological collections, extent of, 
 made by the Commission, 
 Pref. VIII. and ii. 548, 550. 
 
 THE END.