).^^,\Qa,vi)iii!im>P^KM()lW)^ii^.'m\:\»'»m^M>K^'.mmKW:lim:^ Wi!-i {.'■■' ■Ii'\ \ m Iplr ■Hi :*fe mm THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF NORTH CAROLINA THE COLLECTION OF NORTH CAROLINIANA FROM THE UBRARY OF ^et r>C in UNIVERSITY OF N.C. AT CHAPEL HILL 00032745968 This book must not be taken from the Library building. Form No. 471 american fjietoric Cowne Historic Towns of New England Edited by Lyman P. Powell. With Intro- duction by George P. Morris. Fully illustrated. Large 8", ««■/ $3.00. Histot ic Towns of the Middle States Edited by Lym.vn P. Powell. With Intro- duction by Albert Shaw. Fully illustrated. Large S'\ uet $3.00. Historic Towns of the Southern States Edited by Lyman P. Powell. With Intro- duction by W. P. Trent. Fully illustrated. Large 8°, net $3.00. Historic Towns of the Western States Edited by Lyman P. Powell. With Intro- duction by R. G. Thvvaites, Fully illustrated. Large 8°, net%i.oo. G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS, New York and London Bmertcan Ibietoiic Zomw HISTORIC TOWNS OF THE SOUTHERN STATES Edited by LYMAN P. POWELL Illustrated G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS NEW YORK & LONDON Zbe IRnicl^erbocher press 1904 Copyright, igoo BV G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS TTbe 'Rnicfteibocftci- piese, IRcw ItJorft PREFACE THE triad of volumes dealing with the older American Historic Tozutis along or near the eastern coast is now complete. The three volumes, like the chapters of which they are composed, have their inevitable limitations. While neither in historical value nor in literary quality has it proved practicable to secure a uniformity of standard, editor and contributors have done the best they could, and they now feel assured that the series has proved its right to exist. It is quickening interest in our historic towns, bringing to light important facts, picturing for the patriotic reader who may not be free to make personal visits the places he would visit if he could, and making clear to him many things he would not be likely to learn in the towns themselves, how- ever long a stay he might be free to make. IV Preface Like the preceding: issues, this volume has a patriotic and educational purpose, but it goes forth also on an irenic mission. The editor's father, dead almost a quarter of a century, lived in a little border town where in war times love and hate alike were hot. An avowed and fearless Unionist, he was also a true and faith- ful pacificator. As Mr. Rule has said of Louis- ville, James B. R. Powell "occupied a position similar to that of Tennyson's sweet little hero- ine, Annie, who, sitting between Enoch and Philip, with a hand of each in her own, would weep, " ' And pray them not to quarrel for her sake.' " hi planning and in shaping this volume, the editor hopes that he is proving himself worthy of an honored father, whose name he would connect in this way with the work and with the series. His special acknowledgments are due to his wife, Gertrude Wilson Powell, for discrimi- nating and invaluable assistance at every stage, and to Professor W. P. Trent, who, in addition to the preparation of a comprehensive Intro- duction, has ever been ready with such counsel Preface v and suggestions as enhance in many ways the value of the volume. Lyman P. Powell. St. John's Rectory, Lansdowne, Pennsylvania. August lo, 1900. CONTENTS Baltimore St. George L. Sioussat PAGE I Annapolis Sara Andrew Shafer . ■ 47 Frederick Town . Sara Andrew Shafer . 75 Washington . Frank A. Vanderlip . lOI Richmond on the James . William Wirt Henry . • i5f Williamsburg Lyon G. Tyler . • 185 Wilmington . Joseph Blount Cheshire 219 Charleston . Yates Snowden . 249 Savannah Pleasant Alexander Stoval 1 293 Mobile . Peter J. Hamilton 327 Montgomery . George Petrie . 379 New Orleans. Grace King 411 Vicksburg H. F. Simrall . 433 Knoxville Joshua W. Caldwell . 449 Nashville Gates P. Thruston . 477 Louisville Lucien V. Rule J503 Little Rock . George B. Rose 537 St. Augustine George R. Fairbanks . 557 ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE The Library of Congress, Washington, D.C. Frontispiece BALTIMORE Old Court-House (1768) and Powder Magazine . . 5 From an old print in the possession of the Maryland His- torical Society. Edward Fell, in Uniform of Provincial Forces . . 6 From original painting in possession of William Fell Johnson. Moale's Sketch of Baltimore in 1752 .... 13 From the original in the possession of the Maryland His- torical Society. Battle Monument ly Mount Clare, 1760, Residence of Charles Carroll, Bar- rister IQ Boos House, near which Lafayette's Troops Encamped 23 John Eager Howard .27 From the painting by Rembrandt Peale, owned by R. Bayard. St. Paul's Church 31 From an old copper print, owned by Rev. J. S. B. Hodges. Belvidere, 1786, the Home of Colonel John E. Howard 35 From the original in the possession of the Misses McKim, Belvidere Terrace, Baltimore, Md. Bust of Johns Hopkins 43 From the original in Johns Hopkins Hospital. Seal of Baltimore 45 X Illustrations ANNAPOLIS PACE George Calvert, First Lord Baltimore .... 48 Reproduced from an old print. Cecilius Calvert, Second Lord Baltimore ... 49 Reproduced from an old print. St. John's College and the Treaty Tree • • • 55 The State House * . . 57 Charles Carroll of Carrollton, 1737-1832 ... 60 The Old House of Burgesses, now Used as the State Treasury 61 The Brice House 62 The Peggy Stewart House 64 The Burning OF the " Peggy Stewart" .... 65 From the painting by Frank B. Mayer. The Naval Institute 69 (Where the battle-flags are kept.) The Old Governor's Mansion, now the Naval Academy Library 72 The Seal of the Naval Academy ..... 73 FREDERICK TOWN Prospect Hall. The Dulany Mansion . . . .81 Rose Hill, the Home of Governor Thomas Johnson . 86 Governor Thomas Johnson and Family . . . .89 From the painting by Charles Wilson I'eale. Francis Scott Key 91 Chief Justice Roger B. Taney 92 The Old Reformed Church . . . . -. -95 Barbara Frietchie 96 Home of Barbara Frietchie 97 The Hated British Tax-Stamp, 1765-1766 ... 99 Illustrations xi WASHINGTON PAUE Pierre Charles L'Enfant . 105 Statue of Gen. Winfield Scott, Washington . . .118 The Capitol 123 From the Congressional Library. The City of Washington in 1800 127 From an old print. The White House . . . • 129 From the northeast. State, War and Navy Building 133 From the southeast. The " Octagon House " used by President and Mrs. Madison during the Rebuilding of the White House in 1814 137 Grand Staircase in the Hall of the Congressional Library ......... 139 The United States Treasury 143 From the southwest. Rotunda of the Congressional Library, Washington . 145 Washington Monument 149 Looking across the " flats." The Seal of the District of Columbia . . . .150 RICHMOND ON THE JAMES Grave of Powhatan on the James . . . . .153 Colonel William Evelyn Byrd 157 From a painting by Sir Godfrey Kneller Old Stone House, Built in 1737 160 Bird's-eye View of Richmond 163 Washington Monument and Capitol, Richmond, Vir- ginia 167 Henry Clay 169 The Marshall House, Richmond, Virginia . . . 172 Richmond in Flames 177 xii Illustrations PAGE Monument to General Robert E. Lee, Richmond . .179 The White House of the Confederacy, Richmond 180 Monument over Confederate Dead at Hollywood . 181 Seal of Richmond 1S3 WILLIAMSBURG " Old Powder-horn " 186 Interior of Bruton Parish Church at Williamsburg, Va. 189 College of William and Mary 193 Jacobus Blair 195 The founder of William and Mary College. Benj. S. Ewell 197 John Tyler, Sr 200 Mary Cary, Washington's Early Lovk, .... 205 Chief Justice Marshall 209 George Wythe 213 John Tyler, President OF the United States . . 215 Seal OF William and Mary College .... 217 WILMINGTON Residence of James Sprunt 223 Formerly the residence of Governor Dudley. St. Paul's Church, Edenton, N. C, from the Southeast. 225 Begun in 1736. Harnett's House, " Hilton," near Wilmington . . 230 "Orton House" 232 The Walls of St. Philip's Church, Brunswick . 234 Showing part of the comer-stone broken out and rifled by Federal soldiers in 1865. Commission of Louis de Rosset as Captain in the French Army, Signed by Louis XIV., and Counter- signed BY Tellier 237 Hugh Waddell 239 Illustrations xiii PAGE William Hooper of North Carolina, Signer of the Dec- laration OF Independence 241 Headquarters of Lord Cornwallis, Wilmington . . 243 Commission of Louis de Rosset as Captain, Given by William and Mary ....... 245 Seal of Wilmington ........ 247 CHARLESTON Plan of Charleston 253 From a survey by Edward Crisp in 1704. St. Philip's Church, Charleston ..... 255 A Modern Charleston Residence 259 Defence of Fort Moultrie 263 From a painting by J. A. Oertel. The Attack on Fort Moultrie by the British Fleet, 1776 265 Philadelphia Street (Coon Alley) 279 Scene in rear of St. Philip's Church. The Attack on Charleston by the Federal Ironclad Fleet, April 7, 1863 . . . . . . 281 Major-General William Moultrie 285 From a painting by Col. J. Trumbull. St. Michael's Church, Charleston 289 Seal of Charleston 292 SAVANNAH The Post Office 295 House where the Colonial Legislature Assembled in 1782 297 Headquarters of Washington during a Visit to Sa- vannah 299 The Jasper Monument 303 The Burial Place of Tomochichi 307 Christ Church , . . . 309 xiv Illustrations PAGE Oaks at Bethesda Orphanage under which Whitefield Preached 310 Great Seal of Georgia in Colonial Days . . .312 Old Fort, where Powder Magazine was Seized in 1775 . 314 General Oglethorpe 316 Count Casimir Pulaski 319 Fort Pulaski 321 R. M. Charlton, Poet, Jurist, U. S. Senator . . . 323 Seal of Savannah 325 MOBILE Facsimile Page of Baptismal Record (1704) with the Autograph of Bienville 333 Plan of Mobile and of Fort Louis in 171 i . . . 337 The Bay Shell Road at Lovers' Lane .... 343 Mobile in 1765 349 The Ellicott Stone 351 Place where Aaron Burr was Captured .... 354 John A. Campbell 362 Raphael Semmes in 1861 364 C. S. S. " Florida" Entering Mobile Bay, Sept. 4, 1862 367 From a painting by R. S. Floyd. Home of Augusta Evans Wilson 373 Augusta Evans Wilson 376 Seal of Mobile 378 MONTGOMERY Old Cannon of Bienville 380 Dexter Avenue during a Street Pair . . , . 387 Old Building in which Lafayette Ball was Given in 1825 389 Alabama State Capitol where President Davis was In- augurated 396 Illustrations xv P4GE PiRST Page of the Permanent Constitution of the Con- federate States, as Reported by the Committee 401 This is in the handwriting of Gen. Thos. R. R. Cobb, who was a member of the committee. Taken from the original, which is in the possession of Mr. A. L. Hull, Athens, Ga. The Permanent Constitution of the Confederate States 403 As reported by committee and amended by Congress, is in the possession of the daughter of Mr. Alex. B. Clitherall, Mrs. A. C. Birch, Montgomery, Ala. The Pollard Residence, Built before the War . . 406 Monument to Confederate Soldiers Erected on the Capitol Grounds by the Ladies' Memorial Asso- ciation 407 Jefferson Davis 408 Seal of Montgomery 410 NEW ORLEANS Tomb of Avar, City Park 413 The Custom-House, New Orleans 415 Chartres Street and Cathedral 419 The Ursulines Convent 421 The Jackson Monument 423 Canal Street, New Orleans 427 The Cabildo, Old Court Building, Jackson Square . 428 St. Fries Cathedral 429 Seal of New Orleans 431 VICKSBURG Meeting of Generals Grant and Pemberton at the "Stone House" inside the Rebel Works on the Morning OF July 4, 1863 435 (From an actual sketch made on the spot by one of the special artists of Frank Leslie' s Illustrated Newspaper, now in the collection of Major George Haven Putnam.) xvi Illustrations PAGE General U. S. Grant 442 Plan of the Siege of Vicksburg 445 Seal of Vicksburg 447 KNOXVILLE John Sevier, First Governor of Tennessee . . . 450 William Blount, Governor of Southwest Territory 452 University of Tennessee 459 Hugh L. White 464 Admiral Farragut 465 William G. Brownlow, the " Fighting Parson " . . 467 Battle of Fort Saunders 473 Seal of Knoxville 475 NASHVILLE James Robertson 481 The First Residence of Andrew Jackson . . . 483 Fort Ridley, an Old Nashville Blockhouse . . . 485 Andrew Jackson 489 The Hermitage Mansion, Residence of Andrew Jackson 491 James K. Polk 493 Tomb of James K. Polk, Nashville 495 The State House 497 The Parthenon, Nashville, Tenn 499 Seal of Nashville 501 LOUISVILLE George D. Prentice 505 From an old painting owned by the Polytechnic Society of Kentucky. Daniel Boone 508 From a painting in the possession of Col. R. T. Durrett, Louisville, Ky. Illustrations XVll PAGE George Rogers Clark cjo From a painting in the possession of Col. R. T. Durrett, Louisville, Ky. Blockhouse and Log Cabins on Corn Island, 1778, First Settlement OF Louisville, Ky 513 From an old pri»t y» the possession of Col. R. T. Durrett, Louisville, Ky. Residence of George Rogers Clark on the Indiana Shore, opposite Louisville eig From an old print in the possession of Col. R. T. Durrett, Louisville, Ky. The City Hall ^jg On the Tobacco Breaks 523 The Keats House (The Elks Building) . . . .527 The Court-House ........ 520 A Scene at the Wharf 533 Seal of Louisville ........ 535 LITTLE ROCK The " Little Rock," to which the City Owes its Name 539 Little Rock Levee c 10 New State House 5_^3 Old State House 5^5 The House where the Arkansas Legislature was Held IN 1835 546 Albert Pike c ,^ Robert Crittenden c .g The Old Fowler Mansion g^q Now the residence of John M. Gracie. The Crittenden Residence 550 The first brick house built in Little Rock. Now the home of Governor James P. Eagle. The Old Pike Mansion 551 Now the residence of Colonel John G. Fletcher. xviii Illustrations PAGE ■CUSTOM-HoUSE AND POST OkFICE 554 Little Rock University 555 ST. AUGUSTINE The Old City Gate 558 Pedro Menendez de Aviles, Founder of St. Augustine . 560 Old Forge 562 Old Spanish Fort on Matanzas River . . . .565 The Oldest House in St. Augustine .... 569 Ruins of the Old Spanish Fort at Matanzas Inlet . 573 Hotel Ponce de Leon 579 Seal OF St. Augustine 581 INTRODUCTION By W. p. TRENT pROBABLY the first feeling of the reader * who glances over the table of contents of this volume will be one of surprise at the num- ber of Southern towns of historical importance that the editor has seen fit and been able to include. Neither from our study of American history nor from our study of geography have we been led to look upon the Southern States as a region characterized by urban develop- ment. Those of us who took the pains to examine the statistics of the census of 1890 remember that the South stood far behind the other sections in this respect. We remember, too, to have seen in our histories the thickly settled New England township contrasted with the large, sparsely settled Southern county. In literature the South has figured as a region of plantations and manor houses inhabited by XX Introduction cavaliers and chatelaines and old family slaves, possessors of all the feudal virtues, or else as the home of a curious race, presumably Cau- casian, known as "crackers," and of equally curious mountaineers known as " moonshiners." An exception is made, of course, in favor of New Orleans, the home of the Creole and the carnival ; of Charleston, the home of secession ; of Richmond, the home of the Confederate government ; and of St. Augustine, the home of hotels ; but on the whole it is probable that the average American of other sections, unless he be a drummer or a valetudinarian tourist, rarely thinks of the South from the point of view of its towns, historic or unhistoric. For this state of affairs no one is to blame. The great growth of municipalities in the North, East and West — the colossal develop- ment of New York, Chicago and Philadelphia, of Boston and Baltimore and a dozen other great cities — has naturally cast in the shade the urban status of a section that contains no city of three hundred thousand inhabitants. It is true that much is heard of the New South with its commercial future ; but probably the pushing Atlanta is almost the only Southern city that has in the last few decades impressed Introduction xxi itself to any marked degree upon the nation's consciousness. Nor is it surprising that it is only since the Civil War that the urban development of the South has begun to be of importance even to close students of the past and present of the section. From the time of the earliest settle- ments to the present day agriculture has been the dominant industry. Virginia tobacco, Car- olina indigo and rice, far Southern and South- western cotton — these staples have meant more to the South than manufacturing or com- merce. She developed seaports, which grad- ually lost their relative standing among the ports of the country and administrative and distributing centers ; but there was no crowd- ing of operatives into manufacturing towns, no haste on the part of country-bred youths to leave their native fields for the shops and ware- houses and offices of the city. The gentle- man's son looked forward in most cases to being a planter ; the small farmer's son grew up in an environment that did not stimulate am- bition. Cotton was king, and his court was bound to be a rural one. It is not to be supposed, however, that during the period from 1820 to i860, which xxii Introduction witnessed the amazing growth of manufacturing and commercial centers in the North and East and the still more wonderful rural and urban development of the West, the South was en- tirely content with the spread of her cotton- fields and oblivious to the stagnation or the slow growth of her towns. Her country-gen- tleman class was doubtless content with this state of affairs, and her politicians actually boasted of it, being put on the defensive in all respects on account of the attacks made upon slavery ; but the leading inhabitants of the towns regfretted the backwardness of their section and devised various schemes for remedy- ing it, while the merchant class openly com- plained of the fact that young men were taught to look down upon every pursuit other than planting. This is but to say that the people of the South were not so different at bottom from their hopeful, energetic fellow citizens of other sections as has sometimes been imagined. They were Americans tied down to one occu- pation and rendered unprogressive by the ham- pering influences of a belated institution. This fact does not appear on the surface ; in- deed it becomes apparent only to the careful stu- dent of sources of which the Southern historian Introduction xxiii has not yet made full use. These sources are the local newspapers and the fairly numer- ous magazines — particularly the financial and commercial De Bow's Review published at New Orleans. The Southern historian, like his brothers of the North and East until recently, has laid disproportionate stress upon the colo- nial history of his section or else upon its polit- ical history, and thus has failed to bring out the interesting struggle between the old and the new economic orders of thinofs that took place in the South down to the time of the Civil War. Hence it is that in the present volume we find in many chapters the gap be- tween the surrender at Yorktown and the fir- ing upon Sumter covered by only a few para- graphs. Some of the towns had a most in- teresting history during these years, — as we may judge from Dr. Petrie's chapter on Mont- gomery, — but it has not yet been written. When it is, we shall get abundant evidence of a heroic if, on the whole, unsuccessful strug- gle for urban development. Charleston in particular made a most gallant fight to recover the importance as a port which she had lost through the rivalry of Baltimore and New Orleans. Her leading citizens, some of whom xxiv Introduction labored for the cause of public education and of literary and scientific development with an earnestness that should not be forgotten in spite of the paucity of results, saw clearly that something must be done to enhance the city's wealth and growth if the State herself, or, in- deed, the section, was to maintain an important place in the union of rapidly developing com- monwealths. They saw, furthermore, what this somethinor must be. The cotton of the South and the agricultural and other products of the great West must be drawn away from Northern ports to ships lying in the harbor of Charleston, The distance to be traversed and the mountain barriers made all thought of a canal similar to the one that had brouQrht fortune to New York out of the question, and the hopes of enterprising citizens centered on the newly invented railway. As early as 1831 the first steam locomotive used successfully on rails in this country was put on its tracks at Charles- ton by the South Carolina Railroad Company, and, as Mr. Snowden tells us in his chapter, the longest railway in the world was at one time contained within the borders of what is not familiarly known as a progressive State. It was but a short time before ambitious plans Introduction xxv were set on foot to connect Charleston with Cincinnati and the West. The full story of these plans — of the faith- ful labor expended upon them, and of their ultimate failure, throuo-h no fault of the unself- ish promoters — belongs to another place ; but a few words upon the subject may be pardoned here on account of the light that will be thrown upon the difficulties encountered by every ante-bellum Southern city in its efforts at prog- ress. The first steps taken by the friends of the Louisville, Cincinnati and Charleston Railroad Company were comparatively easy. Charters were obtained from several States, enthusiastic conventions of promoters were held, engineers were put into the field to de- cide between competing routes, and popular subscriptions to the stock were opened in most of the towns and villages. By November, 1836, South Carolina alone had subscribed for nearly $2,775,000 of the $4,000,000 needed to start the enterprise. Within a few days this latter amount was made up, and everything looked bright. But Governor McDuffie in his annual message pointed out unforeseen obsta- cles. Kentucky had subscribed only $200,000, and yet claimed six directors out of twenty-four ; xxvi Introduction Ohio had subscribed almost nothing. Why should South Carolina cover Kentucky with railroads ? Why, again, should the promo- ters of the enterprise wish for banking privi- leges when the whole country was crowded with banks already ? He urged the legisla- ture to withhold the desired subscription of $1,000,000 until the success of the road was more fully assured. His advice was not fol- lowed, but we may learn two important facts from his remarks : first, that the South suf- fered from the crude financial methods and the fever for speculation that afflicted the rest of the country. Second, that State jealousy was a rock upon which any great Southern scheme was liable to split. The theory of States-rights united the Southern commonwealths politically against the other sections, but in internal matters it was a disintegrating agent of great potency. The promoters of the road were not dis- couraged, however, by Governor McDuffie's pessimism. They organized their bank, pur- chased the road which already connected Charleston and Augusta, known as " The Charleston and Hamburg," began a branch to connect the State capital, Columbia, with this road, and commenced to realize on the popular Introduction xxvii subscriptions to the stock. But they had not counted on the panic of 1837 and the continu- ing financial depression, in the midst of which their bank was forced to suspend, nor had they expected to lose by death their efficient presi- dent, Robert Y. Hayne, Webster's famous opponent. The great interstate scheme soon shrank to state proportions ; and by 1842 peo- ple were congratulating themselves that they had at least a gratifying extent of railway mile- age within the borders of South Carolina itself. This seems a small return for a large outlay of energy, yet after a careful study of the compli- cated history of the road it can scarcely be said that General Hayne and his associates made as bad a compromise with their magnificent dreams as the majority of our more recent rail- way promoters have done. Certainly the way in which the public responded to their efforts spoke well for the energy and the civic intelli- gence of a people of planters. The effects of the panic and of Western indifference could hardly have been foreseen ; the banking at- tachment was natural enoug-h in an era of wild banking to which the lessons of experience were wanting ; and, finally, the method of securing capital by instalments of subscription, xxviii Introduction crude as it may seem, was almost the only available one among a people whose capital was in the main locked up in land and negroes. We are warranted, therefore, in concluding, from these early efforts to connect Charleston with the West, and from later railroad enter- prises of other Southern cities that cannot be treated here, that the failure of the antc-belhim South to show a marked urban development was due not to the backwardness and inertia of its influential citizens, but rather to unfavor- able economic conditions that could not be speedily overcome. The student of Southern history will reach this conclusion by following other lines of inves- tigation. It is a well-known fact that in the dec- ade before the Civil War annual commercial conventions were held in the leadincj Southern cities. These conventions tended also to be- come political in character and furnished an opportunity for the exploitation of some rather extreme propositions, such, for example, as that looking to the reopening of the foreign slave- trade. They serve to illustrate the important part played by the ante-bellum towns in devel- oping and intensifying the movement toward secession ; but it is more to the point here to Introduction xxix observe that they were preceded by a series of conventions more strictly commercial in char- acter — gatherings that did all they could to stir up the people of the South to the need of urban development and to open their eyes to the fact that their section was yearly falling behind in wealth and political power.^ This first series seems to have begfun with a gathering in Augusta, Georgia, in October, 1837, the object of the meeting being to allow merchants the opportunity to discuss projects for developing a direct trade between the South and Europe. As the only speeches that caused comment were made by two "Colonels" and a "General," it is easy to perceive that even in such a convention the commercial classes were overshadowed. The delegates met twice, however, the next year, and afterwards at Charleston and Macon, the presence of delegates from all the Southern States being solicited and in part obtained. These meetings did what they could to arouse the South to commercial activity, on one ' The later series of conventions is well described by Mr. Edward Ingle in his interesting and valuable volume, based mainly upon magazine and newspaper research, entitled Southern Sidelights (pp. 220-261). Mr. Ingle pays but slight attention to the earlier series, which seems nowhere to have been fully described. XXX Introduction occasion viewing " with deep regret the neglect of all commercial pursuits " that had thitherto prevailed among the youth of the section. That their efforts were no more successful than those of the contemporary railway promoters proves only that the failure of urban develop- ment in the South was due not to the su- pineness of the entire population but to the presence of an institution during the existence of which agriculture was bound to be the para- mount industry. It is interesting to notice that these efforts toward urban development were contemporaneous with and in answer to the agitation of the early abolitionists ; that they practically ceased during the movement for territorial aggrandizement in Texas and the Far West ; and that they began in full force when it became apparent that the South had gained less of the new territory than she thouofht she would. So true is it that all Southern history has a political background ! It is not, however, desirable that the present Introduction should degenerate into a dry historical essay devoted to certain obscure points in the economic history of the South, although it does seem important that the reader should realize that the citizens of Introduction xxxi Southern towns between the years 1800 and 1 860 were not altogether lacking in enterprise and foresight. Yet the period mentioned is so interesting in many ways that it is hard to leave it. It would be pleasant to sketch briefly the efforts made to develop literary centers — especially at Richmond and Charleston : the establishment at the former place of the SoutJicrn Literary Messenger, forever con- nected with the fame of Poe ; at the latter, of the earlier and the later Southern Review and of Russell's Magazine, connected, respec- tively, with the names of Hugh S. Legare, Wil- liam Gilmore Simms and the ill-fated Henry Timrod, whose genuine poetical genius is slowly being recognized. It would be interest- ing, too, to discuss the political influence wielded by such newspapers as the Richmond Enquirer and the Charleston Mercury. A topic no less important is the effect of the classical culture undoubtedly possessed to a considerable degree by the leading citizens of the older towns upon the problem, only now being solved by the New South, of affording every child a free and sound education. A discussion of this topic would naturally lead one to inquire into the status of the lower and xxxii Introduction middle classes in the ante-bellum Southern towns, and this would necessarily carry us very far afield. Perhaps the best way to break the train of these suggestions and reflections is to ask the reader whether he would ever have thought it possible for a German immigrant to become a day-laborer in a Southern town, to save enough money in six years to build an important bridge and wharf, to found a town of his own which soon became a flourishing cotton market and actually, as its leading per- sonage, to enter into quasi-diplomatic relations with the government of Hamburg, Germany ! Yet all this actually happened in the "unpro- gressive " ante-bellum South. The man's name was Henry Schultz ; the town in which he made his fortune, and, sad to relate, subse- quently lost it, was Augusta, Georgia ; the town he founded was Hamburg, South Car- olina, which it must be confessed has not become a metropolis and is chiefly known in connection with certain important riots.^ ' Schultz was a party for years to a very important case known as " John W. Yarborough and others vs. The Bank of the State of Georgia," etc., for documents relating to which I am indebted to William K. Miller, Esq., of the Augusta bar. The interesting career of the man became known to me some years since through re- searches undertaken in the early volumes of the Edgefield (S. C.) A dvertiser. Introduction xxxiii Next to the large number of towns worthy to be included in the volume, perhaps the most striking feature is the fact that nearly every town described has experienced the vicissitudes of war. No walls of long standing or traces of them may be pointed out to the curious vis- itor of to-day, but battle-fields there are, and in more than one instance stories may be told of lonor- sustained sieves and heroic defences. The Sunny South ought naturally to be a land of languorous peace, but over no other section have the clouds of war rolled so heavily. Its oldest town, St. Augustine, was born of war. Baltimore and Washington suffered duringr the War of 1812, and the latter was seriously threatened during the War for the Union. Frederick Town lives in our memories alone with Stonewall Jackson and Barbara Fritchie. Before Richmond Lee foiled the troops of Mc- Clellan, and the gallant capital, after four years filled with high hopes and reckless gayety and solemn mourning, surrendered when the same undaunted Lee had but a few thousand starv- ing veterans to oppose to the splendid and puissant hosts of Grant. The ghosts of long- dead cavaliers must have shivered when the streets of Williamsburg echoed to the tramp of xxxiv Introduction soldiers from Puritan New England. The name of Wilmington brings to mind the dar- ing exploits of the blockade-runners ; that of Charleston recalls the heroic defence of Fort Moultrie, the occupation by the British, the threatened bloodshed of the Nullification crisis, the capture of Sumter and the magnificent resistance offered the Federal arms through- out the Civil War. Like Charleston, Savan- nah can tell of encounters with Spaniards and British undergone gloriously by her sons, although she doubtless does not yet relish hav- ing been Sherman's Christmas gift to the na- tion. Mobile and New Orleans are forever associated with the illustrious name of Farra- gut, and the latter can boast of being the scene of the most splendid victory in our an- nals, that won by Jackson and his backwoods- men over the picked troops of Wellington. As for the great siege of Vicksburg that set the seal upon Grant's fame, or for the battle of Nashville that gave almost equal renown to Thomas, men will not forget them even when Tolstoi's dreams of universal peace have be- come a blessed reality. But peace hath her victories no less re- nowned than war, as these chapters all tell us in Introduction xxxv language as convincing if not so noble as that of Milton. The history of the brave and suc- cessful efforts made by the South to recover from the losses of the war and from the still more disastrous effects of the worst-devised legislation ever inflicted upon a conquered people cannot yet be fully written, but when it is, the part played by the Southern towns will surely be paramount. Population and busi- ness have greatly increased in the urban cen- ters ; the cause of truly public education has been fostered to a remarkable extent ; political prejudices have waned ; respect for human life has increased ; and, finally, a true national spirit has been developed. Much remains to be done in the way of municipal improvements, — for example in the founding of public libraries, — but the history of the past thirty-five years warrants us in believing that the citizens of the Southern towns will be able to work out their own salvation. The outlook for the ru- ral districts, where the commission merchant has his liens and mortgages, where ignorance and lack of thrift foster political unrest, where race hatred is partly extenuated, by its causes and wholly discredited by its results, is less hopeful but still by no means hopeless. xxxvi Introduction The present volume, however, deals with what has been rather than with what is or will be, and, as has been already remarked, mainly with what took place before even our great- grandfathers were born. To some of us the history of our fathers' times is more interesting than the story of what remoter ancestors did, even though the costumes and the furniture of the former are by no means so picturesque as those of the latter. But tot Jioinines, tot scji- tentics. To Colonial Dames, and Sons and Daughters of the American Revolution, and readers of the Colonial and Revolutionary ro- mances that are in such vogue, many pages of this book ought to prove both interesting and instructive. Nor are devotees of the modern wholly unprovided for, and the special student finds matter for reflection. He can speculate, for example, upon how far the South's com- parative freedom from French and Indian at- tacks rendered early urban development less urgent. He can notice how few great South- ern statesmen and generals were of the urban type. He can contrast Charleston and New Orleans, in their relations with their outlying districts, as a miniature London and a min- iature Paris, respectively. He can wonder Introduction xxxvii whether any subtly psychological cause was at work to prevent the various writers dwelling upon slavery, duelling and other features of the past that are not especially relished by the present, yet assuredly had much to do with making Southern towns as picturesque and in- teresting as occasional travelers used to find them and as the investigator finds them to-day. Yet, if what is omitted reminds the student of the immense opportunity for original and im- portant research that lies before the rising gen- eration of Southern historical scholars, neither he nor the general reader should forget the gratitude due to the editor, the various writers and the publishers of this volume for first o-iv- ing the public in an attractive form adequate proof of the interest and charm attaching to the towns of the mite-bclhun South. In more than one important series of books relating to our national history the South is but scantily represented, but such a reproach cannot attach to this series of American Historic Towns. For weal or woe the South is now an integral part of the nation, and the attractive and in- spiring, no less than the warning features of its history, should be a portion of the intellectual inheritance of every American. HISTORIC TOWNS OF THE SOUTHERN STATES BALTIMORE THE MONUMENTAL CITY By ST. GEORGE L SIOUSSAT pOR many a year after the weary passengers ^ of the Ar^ and the Doz'e had disembarked at St. Mary's, there to make the first settle- ment under the proprietary government of the Lords Baltimore, the rivers of Maryland ran, like Mr. George Alfred Townsend's Rappa- hannock, "All townless from the mountains to the sea." The Chesapeake and its almost numberless tributaries made every plantation accessible to shipping, and so precluded that concentration 2 Baltimore of trade and population at points of vantage which is the essential condition of municipal growth. As Charles Calvert, third Baron Bal- timore, wrote, in 1678: " The principall place or Towne is called St. Maryes . . . other places wee have none, that are called or cann be called Townes. The people there not affecting to build nere each other but soe as to have their [houses] nere the watters for conveniencye of trade and their Lands on each side of and behynde their houses, by which it happens that in most places there are not ffifty houses in the space of thirty myles. And for this reason it is that they have been hitherto only able to divide this Provynce into Countyes without being able to make any subdivision into Parishes or Precincts which is a worke not to be effected untill it shall please God to encrease the number of the People and soe to alter their trade as to make it necessary to build more close and to Lyve in Townes." When Lord Baltimore offered to the Lords of Trade this explanation of the dearth of municipal life in Maryland, he emphasized precisely those facts which have distinguished the political development of the South from that of the North, and unwittingly explained the late appearance upon the map of America of the city which now perpetuates his family name. Baltimore 3 Boston had lived and grown for nearly a century, New Amsterdam had been New York one half that time, and a whole generation of Philadelphians had passed away before the future metropolis of the South came into be- ing, A half-century passed, and the Revolu- tion found the town upon the Patapsco about the size of Salem or Providence ; in another half-century it had become the third city in the United States. The pre-eminence which Baltimore thus attained was many years ago termed "an unsolved problem in the philoso- phy of cities." Now, when one views this phenomenon in a longer perspective, it is pos- sible, perhaps, to discern more clearly some of the elements which combined to give rise to it. Certainly, late years have brought to light much which one is enabled to add to the story of historic Baltimore that the fathers have handed down. As Lord Baltimore's letter to the Lords of Trade indicates, the economic disadvantage of the absence of town life in Maryland was ap- preciated by the Government of the Colony at a very early period in its history. It was not due to the lack of desire or of effort upon the part of the Proprietaries that in Maryland 4 Baltimore " towns there were none." For, first by proc- lamations, then by Acts of Assembly, towns were "erected" in a great number of places situated upon the water and selected, appar- ently, with little reference to any previous exhibition of a tendency to municipal growth, and with equally little reference to any expres- sions of desire upon the part of the inhabitants. That the success of this policy was hardly pro- portionate to the efforts made in its behalf is indicated by the statement made at a later time, that " the settlers, and now the Govern- ment call town any place where as many houses are as are individuals required to make a riot, that is twenty, as fixed by the Riot Act." Indeed, these "fiat" towns were in nearly every case total failures. Harvy-town, Her- rington and many similar creations have passed into oblivion, and now only serve as institutional fossils for the political palaeon- tologist. As Jefferson said of Virginia, "there are other places at which the laws have said there shall be towns : but nature has said there shall not." Among these shadow-towns of early Mary- land were some of particular interest to the history of Baltimore. The settlement upon Baltimore 5 the Patapsco was not the first in Maryland to bear the proprietary name. The first Balti- more seems to have been a point of land in St. Mary's County, spoken of only once in the early records, and never again mentioned. A more important predecessor of the Baltimore OLD COURT-HOUSE (1768) AND POWDER MAGAZINE. FROM AN OLD PRINT IN THE POSSESSION OF THE MARYLAND HISTORICAL SOCIETY. of to-day was Baltimore upon the Bush, a small river emptying into the head of Chesapeake Bay, not far south of the Susquehanna. " The town-land on Bush River " is mentioned as early as 1669, and, some years later, it was made the seat of the court and court-house of Baltimore County. Though the court- 6 Baltimore house was removed before long to Joppa, upon the Gunpowder, farther to the south, many of the eighteenth-century maps of Mary- land show Baltimore as still upon the Bush, Of the history of this early settlement no de- tails have been preserved ; only lately has its site been determined. Meanwhile, in the course of this general "towning," the Patapsco had not been neglected. In the town acts were included provisions for towns upon Humphreys Creek, and upon Whetstone Point in that river. Of the actual existence of any corporate life at these points there is, however, no record ; and it is probable that King George's accession found the Patapsco watering the same broad plantations as of yore. But a new era in the town history of Maryland was dawning. Gov- ernmental stimulation was being supplanted by private enterprise. Certain progressive indi- viduals conceived the idea of erecting a town upon a point of land which runs out into the main stream of the Patapsco and to-day is in- cluded within the limits of Baltimore city. At that time, this land was the property of a Mr. John Moale, and was known as Moale's Point ; but if it is Baltimore now, Mr. Moale was Baltimore 7 resolved that it should not be Baltimore then, and taking his seat in the Assembly, to which he was a delegate, he prevented the location of the town upon his property. Tradition has censured this worthy for preferring the exca- vation of iron ore to the development of a municipality, but colonial experience in town lots had doubtless been such as to yield him ample justification for his determination. "The rejected of Mr. John Moale " was not, however, to wander far, for slightly to the north lay property belonging to Charles and Daniel Carroll, sons of the former agent of the Lord Proprietary. Here the Patapsco formed a basin, a safe harbor for vessels of light draft ; and near by a stream, known to this day as Jones's Falls, after the name of an early settler, running from the hills near by, through lowland and marsh, poured a muddy torrent into the river. In 1709, was passed an act "for erecting a town on the north side of Patapsco in Baltimore County and for laying out into lots sixty acres of land in and about the place where one John Fleming now lives." ^ • John Fleming was a tenant of the Carrolls. This homestead is supposed to have been located near the point where now Lombard Street intersects the east side of South Charles Street. 8 Baltimore The owners of the land, the Carrolls, were more complaisant than Mr. John Moale : they readily parted with sixty acres of land at the rate of forty shillings per acre, payable in tobacco at one penny per pound. The town was then surveyed and laid out into lots, after the most approved " boomer " fashion of to-day. To secure an estate in fee simple, " takers-up " of lots were required to erect thereon, within eighteen months, a building covering at least four hundred square feet : failure to comply with this condition laid the lots open for other takers-up. Baltimore's boom seems to have started well, for after Mr. Carroll, as former owner, had selected the first lot, no less than fifteen other persons invested the same year. This success was so much appreciated that two years later another town was established, consisting of two acres laid out into twenty lots, just east of the Falls, "where Edward Fell keeps store." Communication between the new town, known as Jones or Jonastown, and Baltimore was soon improved by a bridge across the Falls, and a few years later the two towns were by Act of Assembly formally made into one. A third distinct element in the early growth EDWARD FELL, IN UNIFORM OF PROVINCIAL FORCES. FROM ORIGINAL PAINTING m POSSESSION OF WILLIAM FELL JOHNSON lo Baltimore of Baltimore was a settlement somewhat far- ther to the east, known as Fell's Point. In 1730, Mr. William Fell, a Lancastrian Quaker, purchased a tract of land known as Copus's Harbor and erected thereon a mansion. A little to the south, a point jutting out into the Patapsco offered wharfage facilities to vessels of large draft that were denied entrance to the shallow basin of Baltimore town. This fact was soon appreciated, and at a later time Edward Fell, who was the son of William, and an officer in the Provincial army, laid out Fell's Point into lots, thereby reaping a fortune magnificent for those times. Durino- the first half of the eis^hteenth cen- tury little of note happened in Baltimore. Within a few years, however, some of the most important influences in its later develop- ment began to make themselves felt. In Northern Maryland, particularly near the Pennsylvania border, settlement was going on rapidly, and denser settlement meant the ex- tension of commercial intercourse. In 1736, communication was established between the settlement on the Conewago — Hanover, in Pennsylvania — and the Patapsco. Seven years later, the people of York, also, " have Baltimore 1 1 opened a road to Patapsco. Some trading gentlemen there are desirous of opening a trade to York and the country adjacent." "In October, 1751, no less than sixty waggons loaded with flaxseed, came down to Baltimore from the back country." Baltimore, though vigorous in action, was as yet but mean in appearance. In the rooms of the Maryland Historical Society hangs a sketch of the town, drawn in 1752, by John Moale, the son of him that would have none of towns or town-lots. Rude in perspective as this youthful efl^ort is, it is treasured as one of the oldest and most interesting of the city's heirlooms. Twenty-five houses — four of them built of brick — and two hundred inhab- itants were then to be found in Baltimore. Upon the hill we see perched the first of four St. Paul's churches successively erected upon the same lot, though not all upon the same site. At anchor in the harbor are the brig Philip and Charles and the sloop The Baltimore, The merchant navy of Baltimore was still small : the large vessels of foreign trade still waited at Whetstone Point to receive their freight, transported in large lighters from the planta- tion landings on both branches of the river. 12 Baltimore More flattering than this early artistic at- tempt is Governor Sharpe's description of Baltimore, two years later, as having " the appearance of the most increasing town in the Province," though " hardly as yet rivalling Annapolis in number of Buildings or inhabitants : its situation as to Pleasantness, Air and Prospect is inferior to Annapolis, but if one considers it with resi)ect to Trade, the exten- sive country beyond it leaves us room for comparison : were a few Gentlemen of fortune to settle there and en- courage the Trade, it might soon become a flourishing place, but while few besides the Germans (who are in gen- eral masters of small fortunes) build and inhabit there, I apprehend it Cannot make any considerable Figure." The requisite " gentlemen of fortune " were not long lacking. One soon appeared in the person of Dr. John Stevenson, who, in 1754, came from Ireland, accompanied by his brother. Dr. Henry Stevenson, a man also noteworthy among the founders of Baltimore. Dr. John Stevenson turned his attention to commerce, and began the systematic development of Bal- timore's foreign trade. He contracted for large quantities of wheat, which he shipped to Scotland with such profitable results that gen- eral attention was attracted to the develop- ment of a more extended commerce. O s if < ^ 14 Baltimore " Soon after, the appointment of Mr. Eden to the gov- ernment of Maryland, Sir William Draper arrived in that Province on a tour throughout the continent. He con- templated the origin of Baltimore and its rapid progress with astonishment, and when introduced by the Governor to the worthy founder, he elegantly accosted him by the appellation of the American Romulus." These words were written many years later : to quote them here is to take a long glance ahead. When Dr. Stevenson came to Balti- more, the clouds of war were lowering over the colonies. Governor Sharpe of Maryland exerted himself to the utmost to co-operate with General Braddock in the conquest of the Ohio for England, but fell out with the Lower House of the Provincial Assembly. The war was never popular in Maryland, although large sums were finally appropriated for the defence of the Province. When the news of Braddock's defeat reached Baltimore, the alarm was in- tense. Tradition relates that upon one occa- sion such terrifying reports of the proximity of the Indian allies of France were brought to Baltimore that the women and children were put aboard ships, while the masculine portion of the inhabitants prepared to withstand the attack of the savages. But the attack never ^ Baltimore 15 came ; instead, many settlers in Western Mary- land and Western Pennsylvania hurried back to the East, impressed with the necessity of closer settlement for defensive purposes. This powerful incentive to unity was one that had never been felt by the early colonists of Mary- land, who, unlike their brethren in the North, for the most part dwelt in peace with the natives. During the war, several companies of royal troops were quartered in Baltimore. Among the officers in command. Captain Samuel Gard- ner, of his Majesty's Forty-seventh Regiment, was engaged in recruiting for his Majesty's service. His recruiting sergeant displayed such great zeal in the pursuit of his duty that strenuous opposition was aroused among the gentry of Baltimore, who found their indentured servants disappearing one day, to appear the next in his Majesty's uniform. Upon one occasion, Mr. Charles Ridgely and others rescued — or recaptured — six recruits, claiming that they were indentured servants, which proved, Captain Gardner said, " not to be the truth as to all of them:' The irate Captain appealed to the civil authorities, with a long story about a conspiracy of " some of the i6 Baltimore ' better sort at the Church in the Forest [St. Thomas's] — to raise a body of about two hun- dred men, and take all my Recruits from me." The plan of the conspirators, if such existed never materialized, but Captain Gardner re- ceived cold comfort from Mr. Bordley, the Attorney-General. "He put a case," laments Captain Gardner to Governor Sharpe, " not very much to the Honour of the Recruiting Service — Suppose a man steals a horse, etc.'' While the French and Indian War was in progress, Baltimore received a large addition to its population. When the " French Neu- trals " were removed from Acadia by the Brit- ish Government, many came to Baltimore, and were hospitably quartered in the mansion of Mr. Edward Fottrell, which stood upon the square now covered by the stately court-house recently completed. When the Abbe Robin visited Baltimore during the Revolutionary War, these unfortunate people and their descendants filled about one quarter of the town, a quarter mean and poor in appearance. They still spoke their native dialect, and treasured the altar vessels oriven them, with his parting benediction, by their old cure, M. Le Clerc, who had been the loving guardian BATTLE MONUMENT. 17 i8 Baltimore of their souls. Thoucrh thev beQfan in ereat poverty, this portion of Baltimore's population by industry and thrift rose to a high place in the life of the city. Many of the seafaring men who later played so important a part in the commercial development of Baltimore were the descendants of this sturdy fisherfolk of Acadia. Between the French and Indian War and the Revolution Baltimore grew apace. Marshes were drained and a market-house was erected. In 1768, Baltimore became the county-seat, and a court-house was built upon the site where now the Battle Monument commemorates the defence of the city in 1814. "The Town" and " the Point " vied with each other, and those with an eye to the future bought lots in both places. Many mansions were erected, among them Mount Clare, the residence of Charles Carroll, Barrister. Dr. Henry Steven- son, brother of the " Romulus of America," built a house on the York road near the Falls, which was called " Stevenson's Folly " because of the contrast between its elegance and the simplicity of the surrounding dwellings. It deserved a better name, for later it was trans- formed into a hospital for inoculation against Baltimore 19 the smallpox. Here the Rev. Jonathan Boucher brought "Jacky" Custis, to be "given the smallpox," and we find recorded in Washing- ton's correspondence an account of Dr. Steven- son's charges of " 2 pistoles and 25 s. for board." At the close of the century, the MOUNT CLARE, 1760, RESIDENCE OF CHARLES CARROLL, BARRISTER. venerable doctor was one of the founders of the Medical and Chirurgical Faculty of Mary- land. When he came to Baltimore, the youth of the town already enjoyed the instruction of one schoolmaster, and there was demand for another. Of Baltimore in thispre-Revolutionary period, 20 Baltimore a few odd, disconnected facts have been handed down. The tax upon bachelors — levied to raise supplies for his Majesty's service — can- not have been very productive, as only thirteen " taxables " are reported. The commercial ac- tivity of the community was stimulated every October and May by a fair, when residents and visitors were free from arrest, except for felony and breach of the peace. Among other police regulations, fines were laid upon those whose chimneys blazed out at the top, or who neglected to keep ladders. Baltimore began to look like a busy, thriving town, enjoying life to the utmost. And if our ancestors lived well, they endeav- ored to die well — at least with regard to the comfort of the guests at their funerals. One bill for funeral expenses, besides yards upon yards of crape, tiffany, broadcloth, shalloon and linen, several pairs of black gloves and other necessary attire, includes these items : 471^ lbs. loaf sugar 14 doz. eggs 10 oz. nutmegs li^.lbs. allspice 2o| gall, white wine 12 bottles red wine lof gallons rum [!] Baltimore 21 The first recognition of Baltimore's exist- ence by the Proprietary appears to have been in connection with an inquiry as to the pos- sibility of making the growth of the town a source of additional income. Cecilius Calvert, the secretary of Frederick, the sixth Lord Bal- timore, writes to Governor Sharpe that in Philadelphia William Penn has reserved prop- erty that brings him " much income now " and will produce to his heirs " immense revenue." Sharpe replies that Baltimore town is built upon land patented to private persons, and embraces the opportunity to moderate the ex- travagant reports of Baltimore's size that had reached the ears of the Proprietary, by adding that it " is almost as much inferiour to Philad^ as Dover is to London." However, the twen- ty-five houses and two hundred people of 1752 had become, in 1764, two hundred families, and the town " is increasing." Such was Baltimore town when the citizens met together in town-meeting to adopt a non- importation agreement, and to propose, upon the last day of May, 1774, the assembling of a general congress of delegates from all the colo- nies. The sufferinof of Boston under the Port Bill awoke deep sympathy, and in August of 22 Baltimore this year the sloop America sailed from Balti- more Harbor carrying three thousand bushels of corn, twenty barrels of rye flour, two barrels of pork and twenty-one barrels of bread, " for the relief of our brethren, the distressed inhab- itants of your town." Though never the scene of actual hostilities, Baltimore lacked neither employment nor ex- citement. Early in 1776, a demonstration was made against the town, which had hitherto been entirely defenceless, by a British sloop- of-war and some smaller vessels. Fortifica- tions were hastily erected upon Whetstone Point, where Fort McHenry later was to check the entrance of another British fleet ; vessels were sunk in the channel, and the ship Defense was hurriedly fitted out and put under the command of Captain James Nicholson. The British commander did not risk an action, but stood off down Chesapeake Bay, leaving behind a valuable prize that he had shortly before captured. " Such was the ardor of the militia," wrote Samuel Purviance, Secre- tary of the Committee of Safety of Baltimore town, "that not a man w'^ stay in Comm" room with me but Mr. Harrison." Captain Nicholson was complimented as having "first Baltimore 23 had the honor of displaying the Continental colors to a British man-of-war without a return." BOOS HOUSE NEAR WHICH LAFAYETTE'S TROOPS ENCAMPED. Upon Baltimore, formerly Market, Street, between Sharp and Liberty, a tablet com- memorates the site of " Congrress Hall" a 24 Baltimore " three story and attic " brick building, which, in 1776, belonged to one Jacob Fite, and was at that time one of the most imposing build- ings in the town. Hither the Congress of the United States adjourned in 1776, — when the British approached the Delaware, — and re- mained several weeks, during which period Washington was made a virtual dictator. A few squares to the east was the Fountain Inn, which entertained Washington and many other statesmen and soldiers who came to Baltimore, or passed through the town on their way north and south. Among these visitors was the Due de Lauzun, whose legion lay encamped around the knoll where later, in 1806, was commenced the erection of the Roman Catholic Cathedral. Upon Bond Street, Fell's Point, there was standing, not many years ago, an old farmhouse belonging to a German named Boos, near which Lafayette's troops were en- camped, and at which they obtained milk for their syllabub, and other products of the dairy and the garden. When Lafayette passed through Baltimore £11 route for Yorktown, a ball was given in his honor ; his melancholy demeanor upon this joyous occasion, explained by the Marquis as Baltimore 25 due to his concern at the sufferinors of his ill- clad soldiers, awoke such sympathy that next morning- "the ball-room was turned into a clothing manufactory. Fathers and husbands furnished the materials ; daughters and wives plied the needle at their grateful task." " My campaign," said the General upon his return, "began with a personal obligation to the citi- zens of Baltimore, at the end of it I find my- self bound to them by a new tie of everlasting gratitude." When, forty-three years later, Baltimore again welcomed Lafayette, one of the most touching incidents of his visit was his especial inquiry for Mr. and Mrs. David Poe, — grandparents of Edgar Allan Poe, — the one of whom had advanced Lafayette money from his private funds, and the other had herself cut out five hundred garments for his ragged troops. Mrs. Poe, with feeble body but unclouded mind, was yet alive to welcome the General, but her husband had preceded his venerable friend to the rest which comes after toil. Another foreigner well known in Baltimore was Pulaski, who completed here the organiza- tion of the legfion in command of which he fell at Savannah. In the library of the Maryland 26 Baltimore Historical Society hang the now faded folds of " The crimson banner, that with i)rayer, Had been consecrated there, by the Moravian nuns at Bethlehem, before " The warrior took that banner proud. And it was his martial cloak and shroud." Besides welcoming those from elsewhere, Baltimore gave to the war the best and brav- est of her own. To aid Smallwood and Wil- liams, Baltimore sent General Mordecai Gist, who as Major commanded the Maryland troops that covered the American retreat at Long Island. Another was John Eager Howard, who at Cowpens seized the critical moment, and turned the fortune of the day. At Guil- ford and at Eutaw Colonel Howard was equally conspicuous, and when peace came Maryland honored him by thrice electing him to the national Senate. " He deserves," said General Greene, "a statue of gold, no less than Roman and Grecian heroes." A third was Captain Samuel Smith, who held Fort Mifflin, the " Mud Fort on the Schuylkill," for seven weeks, against powerful land and sea forces of the British, who were seeking to open the communication between Philadelphia and Baltimore 27 the Atlantic. It was largely due to the energy of General Smith that, in the second war with Great Britain, Baltimore escaped the fate of the national Capital. And with these officers went hundreds of lesser rank, to join New Eng- landers and fel- low-Southerners in the common cause of Inde- pendence. When the cry ** Cornwallis i s taken!" an- nounced the final success of Washington and Lafayette, Bal- timore's exul- tation was unbounded. In the evening, we are told, there was a " Feau d' Joy": "the Town and Fell's Point were ele- gantly illuminated ; what few houses that were not, had their windows broke." Upon the Point, Mr. Fell, " a gentleman of princely COL. JOHN EAGER HOWARD. FROM THE PAINTING BY REMBRANDT PEALE. 28 Baltimore fortune," nephew of the first Edward, gave a " genteel Ball and Entertainment," where, Lieutenant Reeves tells us, "we danced and spent the night until three o'clock in the morning of the 23rd as agreeably as one could wish ; as the ladies were very agreeable and the whole company seemed to be carryed away beyond themselves on this happy oc- casion." Many years ago, one of the most distin- guished of Baltimore's sons, the Hon. John P. Kennedy, himself a scholar and an orator of the old regime, gave, in an informal lecture, some of his reminiscences of Baltimore town as it was at the end of the eiorhteenth centurv. Though often quoted, the quaint and charm- ing spirit of the author makes his description yet as fresh and sparkling as his conversation ever used to be, and it is never too late to give in his own words some of his early memoirs of Baltimore town : " It was a treat to see this little Baltimore-town just at the termination of the War of Independence, so con- ceited, bustling and debonair, growing up like a saucy, chubby boy, with his dumpling cheeks and short, grin- ning face, fat and mischievous, and bursting inconti- nently out of his clothes in spite of all the allowance of tucks and broad salvages. Market Street had shot, like Baltimore 29 a Nuremberg Snake out of its toy box, as far as Congress Hall, with its line of low-browed, hip-roofed wooden houses, in a disorderly array, standing forward and back, after the manner of a regiment of militia, with many an interval between the files. Some of these structures were painted blue and white, and some yellow ; and here and there sprang up a more magnificent mansion of brick, with windows like a multiplication table and great wastes of wall between the stories, with occasional court-yards before them ; and reverential locust-trees, under whose shade bevies of truant schoolboys, ragged little negroes and grotesque chimney-sweeps ' skied coppers ' and disported themselves at marbles. " In the days I speak of, Baltimore was fast emerging from the village state into a thriving commercial town. Lots were not yet sold by the foot, — except perhaps in the denser marts of business, — rather by the acre. It was in the rus-in-urbe category. That fury for levelling had not yet possessed the souls of City Councils. We had our seven hills then, which have .been rounded off since, and that locality which is now described as lying between the two parallels of North Charles Street and Calvert Street presented a steep and barren hill-side, broken by rugged cliffs and deep ravines, washed out by the storms of winter into chasms which were threaded by paths of toilsome and difficult ascent. On the sum- mit of one of these cliffs stood the old church of St. Paul's [the second], some fifty paces or more to the eastward of the present church [the third], and sur- rounded by a brick wall that bounded on the present lines of Charles and Lexington Streets. This old build- ing, ample and stately, looked abroad over half the 30 Baltimore town. It had a belfry tower, detached from the main structure, and keeping watch over a graveyard full of tombstones, remarkable to the observation of the boys and girls, who were drawn to it by the irresistible charm of the popular belief that it was haunted, and by the quantity of cherubim that seemed to be continually cry- ing about the death's-head and cross-bones at the dole- ful and comical epitaphs below them — images long since vanished, without a trace left, devoured by the voracious genius of brick and mortar. "... I have a long score of jjleasant recollections of the friendships, the popular renowns, the household charms, the bonhomie, the free confidences and the per- sonal accomplishments of the day. ... In the train of these goodly groups come the gallants who upheld the chivalryof the age, cavaliersof theoldschool, full of starch and powder : most of them the iron gentlemen of the Revo- lution, with leather faces — old campaigners, renowned for long stories : not long enough absent from the camp to lose their military brusquerie and dare-devil swagger ; proper roystering blades, who had not long ago got out of harness and begun to affect the elegancies of civil life. Who but they ! jolly fellows, fiery and loud, with stern glance of the eye and brisk turn of the head, and swash-buckler strut of defiance, like game-cocks, all in three-cornered cocked hats and powdered hair and cues, and light-colored coats with narrow capes and marvellous long backs, with the pockets on each hip, and small- clothes that hardly reached the knee, with striped stock- ings, with great buckles in their shoes, and their long steel watch-chains that hung conceitedly half-way to the knee, with seals in the shape of a sounding-board to a 32 Baltimore pulpit ; and they walked with such a stir, striking their canes so hard upon the pavement as to make the little town ring again. I defy all modern coxcombry to produce anything equal to it — there was such a relish of peace about it, and particularly wlien one of these weather- beaten gallants accosted a lady in the street with a bow that required a whole side pavement to make it in. with the scrape of his foot, and his cane thrust with a flourish under his left arm till it projected behind along with his cue, like the palisades of a clievaiix-de-frist'; and nothing could be more piquant than the lady as she reciprocated the salutation with a curtsey that seemed to carry her into the earth, with her chin bridled to her breast, and such a volume of dignity." The " rus-In-urbe " life of Baltimore was nearly ended ; with the close of the Revolu- tionary War began a new period in its history. Soon streets were paved and lighted, better bridges built, and a watch was established. Commerce sprang up with renewed vigor. The tobacco trade found other markets than the mother country ; the West Indies bought flour, Spain and Portugal, wheat. By 1 790, Baltimore skippers had rounded the Cape of Good Hope and cast anchor in the harbors of the Isle de France. The year 1793 brought another foreign addition to the already poly- glot population of Baltimore. The revolution in San Domineo drove fifteen hundred of the Baltimore inhabitants to Maryland, to develop a o-reat trucking and garden trade, with Baltimore as Its centre. The Baltimore clippers, too, with their jauntily raked masts, showed their heels to the craft of the rest of the world, and the reign of Baltimore's merchant princes began Previous to this time, all large payments of money were made in bags of heavy coin : in 1790 a bank was organized. Several papers were now published, and a circulating library was established by Mr Murphy. A series of medical lectures was preparing the way for the University of Maryland, and education in general was receiving more attention. Popu- lation increased continually, and in 1796 the change from town to full municipal life' was made legal by the incorporation of Baltimore city. _ Now, also, began again the improvement of mternal communication. For many years the white-topped Conestoga wagons had rumbled down to Baltimore from west and north • and from time to time efforts had been made to improve the main roads. In 1805, the main routes converging in Baltimore were turn- piked. Western Maryland was now becom- mg thickly settled, many thriving towns had 34 Baltimore sprung up, and in a few years the " National Road" joined Cumberland, on the Potomac, with the Ohio River. The connection be- tween Cumberland and Baltimore was com- pleted by means of a curious tax on the banks of Maryland. Thus the line of communica- tion between Baltimore and Wheeling was continuous, over one of the best roads in the world. This and six other turnpikes were as seven great rivers, bearing their precious freight of grain, tobacco, dairy products and whiskey to Baltimore for foreign shipment ; and in spite of overtrading and the resulting period of depression, such was Baltimore's progress that in 1825 Jared Sparks could say, " Among all the cities of America, or of the Old World, in modern or ancient times, there is no record of any one which has sprung up so quickly to so high a degree of import- ance as Baltimore." At this time the popula- tion of Baltimore was five times as great as it had been thirty years before, and commerce had increased proportionately. The causes of this remarkable progress were enumerated by Sparks as the advantages of Baltimore's local situation, the swift sailing-vessels, the San Domingan trade, the two great staples, Baltimore 35 tobacco and flour, " for which the demand is always sure, and the supply unfailing," and lastly, the energetic spirit of the people. During all this period the city improved in appearance as well as in size. Especially characteristic of the new Baltimore was " Bel- BELVIDERE, 1786, THE HOME OF COL. JOHN E. HOWARD. videre," the residence of Colonel John Eager Howard. Belvidere was completed in 1794, and only a few years ago was dismantled by the ruthless hand of the city surveyor, to make way for the progress of the ever-expanding city by the extension of North Calvert Street. From Belvidere, which at the beginning of the century was a half-mile from Baltimore, one could look down, as from some mediaeval 36 Baltimore castle, upon the bustling town below. In the view from Belvidere, we are told, "the town, — the Point, the shipping in the Basin and at Fell's Point, the bay as far as the eye can reach, rising ground on the right and left of the harbor, — a grove of trees on the declivity on the right, a stream of water [Jones's Falls] breaking over the rocks at the foot of the hill on the left, all conspire to complete the beauty and the grandeur of the prospect." Here, as at many of the country-seats near Baltimore, a lavish hospitality brought stran- gers from America and from Europe into pleasant association with the leading Mary- landers of the day. A little to the south of Belvidere, in what was then the woodland of " Howard's Park," there soon rose the grandly simple column of the Washington Monument. If Maryland escaped actual invasion during the Revolutionary War, she bore the brunt of the second contest with England. After the British had sailed up the Patuxent, laying waste the manor-houses and wide plantations along its banks, after they had burned the national Capitol and routed a body of Ameri- can militia, they proceeded to attack Balti- more by land and sea. The story is told that some faint hearts came forward with a propo- Baltimore 37 sition to compound for the safety of the city with a heavy ransom, when Colonel Howard replied, " I have as much property at stake as most people, and I have four sons in the field ; but sooner would I see my sons weltering in their blood, and my property reduced to ashes, than so far disgrace the country." It was such spirit as this that checked the land attack at North Point, and that held out in Fort McHenry during the anxious night of September 12th. When day broke upon Fort McHenry, the flag was still there. And in the gray dawn, Francis Scott Key, detained upon the Minden in an effort to secure the release of a captive friend, wrote upon the back of a letter the thoughts which were pass- ing through his mind. Printed a little later, and first sungf in a restaurant near the Holli- day Street Theatre, the song of The Star Spangled Banner was caught up in intense en- thusiasm, till now, following the flag it cele- brates, it is sung in every portion of the globe. / No less important witl\ respect to the final outcome of the war than the repulse of the British at North Point and at Fort McHenry, was the offensive warfare carried on by the privateers of Baltimore, — the clippers turned 38 Baltimore fighters. The log-books of these illusive craft make interesting reading. *' Chased by a frig- ate : outsailed her," is the entry that seems to occur most frequently, and thrilling accounts of hairbreadth escapes are numerous. The English Channel was a favorite hunting- ground of the privateers, and many a British vessel was taken or burnt outside of and in view of her own port. The amount of property taken or destroyed in this way was enormous, and the moral effect of American success ex- ceeded the material. With the return of peace, overtrading led to a commercial crisis. In 18 18, the Baltimore branch of the Bank of the United States be- came insolvent, and the darkest period in the history of the city ensued. But in less than ten years the shock had been so far forgotten that Baltimore was again seeking to develop commercial connection with the West. " The enterprising citizens of Baltimore," we are told, " perceiving that in consequence of steam nav- igation on the western waters, and the exer- tions of other States they were losing the trade of the West, began seriously to consider of some mode of recovering it." The means adopted were twofold : the Chesapeake and Baltimore 39 Ohio Canal, and the Baltimore and Ohio Rail- road. The amount of money which Maryland and, relatively to a greater extent, Baltimore invested in these schemes has perhaps been more than subsequent events have justified ; but the effect of the idea of internal improve- ment cannot be overestimated. That the troublous times of the war between the States should bear upon Baltimore with especial afifliction was but the natural result of her geographical situation. In the more southerly cities, popular sentiment was usually nearly unanimous ; in Baltimore, the combina- tion in municipal life of the foreign with the native Southern element involved the existence of two ideas, two ways of looking at things. When, therefore, the great question had to be decided, the citizens of Baltimore, ever char- acterized by an excessive political activity, im- mediately divided into two camps, in which were often ranged in deadly opposition those who before had been bound by common ties of Church, of State and of kindred ; while be- neath and between the better elements of both parties, the turbulent mob, well schooled in political lawlessness, eagerly embraced every opportunity for riot and disorder. 40 Baltimore The most serious cause of difference was not the question of slavery, for Baltimore was, it has been said, " the paradise of the free colored population." In 1789, Samuel Chase, Luther Martin, Dr. George Buchanan, and in fact most of the leading men of that day, formed one of the earliest of American abolition soci- eties ; and to the same cause, in later times, Charles Carroll of Carrollton lent his influence and William Pinkney his eloquence. The most powerful stimulus to secession lay in the policy of Lincoln's administration. While the attack upon the Sixth Massachu- setts was the work of the mob, the passage through Maryland of the Northern troops made sympathy with the South temporarily predominant. The excitement subsided ; the city, like the State, was held for the Union, but the military policy of the national Govern- ment inaugurated a period of bitter oppression to those whose hearts were across the Potomac. Newspapers were suppressed, all exhibitions of sympathy with the Southern cause were rudely brought to an end, and the personal lib- erty of the individual was destroyed by the suspension of the habeas corpus — a suspension which henceforth estranged the executive and Baltimore 41 the judicial heads of the nation. Yet in spite of this military policy, or, more properly, because of it, the Union sentiment increased, and in 1864, in the city where four years before each of his three opponents had been nominated for the Presidency, the Union-Republican con- vention chose as its candidate for a second term the President, Abraham Lincoln. With the development of the policy of in- ternal improvement began the modern city. In spite of financial crises, periods of bitter political disturbance and the shock of the Civil War, the expansion begun by the uniting of Baltimore town first with Jonas town and then with Fell's Point, has been continued over the neighboring hillsides to the north, east, and west, until the hamlet of two hundred inhabit- ants has now become the city of more than half a million souls. With this numerical increase has come a proportionate commercial development ; the advantageous situation of " the northernmost southern and the western- most eastern city " is as potent a factor in its life to-day as it was of old. In the higher things, also, that enrich the life of a great city, progress has been no less constant. The 42 Baltimore schoolmaster, to whom, in 1752, "encourage- ment " was offered by advertisement in the Maryland Gazette, has been succeeded by a thorough system of public education, while the ideas that found expression in the " Steven- son's Folly," and the " Murphy's Circulating Library " of a century ago, have subsequently inspired the foundations of McDonogh, Shep- ard, Watson, White, Wilson, Peabody, Hop- kins and Pratt. Of all the institutions, charitable or educa- tional, with which Baltimore has been blessed, none have brought her more honor than the Johns Hopkins University and the Johns Hopkins Hospital. Founded upon the be- quest of one of Maryland's sons, who had amassed his great wealth in the city he loved so well, the University was fortunate in the selection as its President of Daniel C. Oilman, a man with extraordinary genius for educational organization. Fortunate, also, was the bring- ing together, at the start, of a faculty of eminent specialists : the first were Oildersleeve, Syl- vester, Remsen, Rowland, Martin and Morris. These men, and their successors, have fostered a spirit of intellectual advance which has made the importance of the University in the edu- Baltimore 43 cational history of this country assume a pro- portion simply incalculable. Across the city, upon a site open and com- manding, stands the Hospital, with its ever- BUST OF JOHNS HOPKINS. FROM THE ORIGINAL IN JOHNS HOPKINS HOSPITAL. growing Medical School, and its Training School for Nurses. Equally successful in its first choice of leaders, and in the character of those who follow them, the Hospital has been far more fortunate than the University in the financial stability of its endowment. 44 Baltimore- Between the two, and lying almost at the base of the Washington Monument, is the Peabody Institute, with its magnificent library. Farther downtown is that of the Maryland Historical Society, and these, with the Con- gressional Library in Washington, only forty miles away, afford every advantage for study and research ; while the more popular demands of Baltimore's readers are met by the great Free Circulating Library endowed by the late Enoch Pratt. In the solution of the problems that arise from the organization of modern society Balti- more has done pioneer work. It was a Balti- more lawyer, Hon. John V. L. McMahon, who drew up for the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad the charter which "formed a model for the organization of all future railroad corporations." It was in Baltimore that a municipality first " secured a valuable revenue from street railway corporations, and applied it to the purposes of public parks." The ploughman and the fisherman that, upon the Great Seal of Maryland, support the shield of the Lords Proprietary may be considered as typical of the influences which have com- bined to further the growth of the city of Baltimore 45 Baltimore ; while to the happy result that has crowned their joint endeavors may be applied the words of the motto that surrounds the whole : " SCVTO BON^ VOLVNTATIS TV^ CORONASTI NOS." ANNAPOLIS "YE ANCIENT CITY" By SARA ANDREW SHAFER NEITHER of the North nor of the South, of the Old nor of the New, the fair State of Maryland possesses a thousand charms that are all her own, as she clasps the blue, river- fringed Chesapeake to her breast, and stretches out her lovely leagues of hill and vale, of field and forest and rocky glen, from where the sun rises out of the ocean beyond her " East'n Sho to where he sets behind the mountain ramparts of her western frontier. And of Maryland surely the heart lies in the quaint old city on the Severn, where the days are longer, the nights stiller, the sunshine more full of peace, and the moonlight more fraught with mystery than any place else in the World. To saunter through the streets of " Y^ Ancient City " of An- napolis is to take a University Extension course 47 48 Annapolis in American history ; to gaze upon her old houses is to behold the finest type of colonial architecture ; while to read her annals is to be fired with the truest patriotism and to mingle in the best society of the picturesque days of long ago. From our New World point of view, An- napolis is very old, dating back to 1608, when Captain John Smith, exploring the Chesa- peake Bay, sailed up the Severn in search of favorable sites for settlements. She is for- tunate in the fig- ures that stand on her threshold, for next after the gal- lant Captain come the noble Calverts — George, Cecilius, Leonard, than whom were never lordlier men. To Cecilius, pledges made to his father GEORGE CALVERT, FIRST LORD BALTIMORE. Were redeemed REPRODUCED FROM AN OLD PRINT. whpn if! T(S'*'> Charles I. made him vast grrants of lands be- yond the Atlantic, in return for which all that Annapolis 49 was asked was allegiance to the English Crown ; one fifth of all gold and silver to be discovered in the new do- main, and an an- nual offering, to be made at Windsor Castle on Easter Tues- day, of two In- dian arrow- heads. The charter thus given was the freest ever be- stowed upon any colony, and in return Lord Bal- timore named his new posses- sions in honor of Queen Henrietta Maria, whose bigotry and arrogance had so much to do with the loss of her husband's crown and life, and which — so strange are the relations of cause and effect — formed one of the broad foundation stones on which the modern super- structure of civil and religious freedom rests. On November 30, 1633, two little ships, the CECILIUS CALVERT, SECOND LORD BALTI- MORE. REPRODUCED FROM AN OLD PRINT. 50 Annapolis Ark and the Dove, set sail from Cowes, under command of Leonard Calvert, brother of the Lord Proprietary, and having on board a goodly company of gentlemen — adventurers. It was but the common sight of the putting out to sea of two insicrnificant boats to those who watched them from the shore that au- tumn day ; but it stands out as marking a great era in the history of human progress. The pious and catholic Cecilius Calvert, carrying out the designs of his great father, had de- creed that all men living under his protection should be free to serve God according to the dictates of their own consciences, — a decree so far in advance of their times as to place the names of the Calverts forever in the foremost rank of the world's greatest and wisest men. After many adventures, on the 25th of March, the Feast of the Annunciation, the colonists landed. A precious early chronicle tells us that " Heere we went to a place where a large tree was made into a Crosse, and taking it upon our shoulders, wee car- ried it to the place appointed for it. The gouvernour and Commissioners putting their hands first vpon it, and then the rest of the chiefest aduenturers. At the place prepared wee all kneeled downe and said certain Prayers, Annapolis 51 taking possession of the Countrey for our Savior, and for our Soueraigne Lord the King of England." The early relations between the new comers and the aborigrines seem to have been of the most friendly character, and the Relation of the Success f 2il Begin7iing of the Lord Baltimore s Pla?itation in Maryland, from which we have just quoted, is full of the praises of the climate, the soil, the flora and fauna, and the general ofoodliness of the land. An Eden it must have been in its primeval loveliness ! As ever in Eden, there were serpents. The world was not yet worthy of the lofty ideas of the founder of the Terra Marice. The first Provincial Assembly, which met in 1637-38, had many grave questions to discuss, and these grew only graver as the political situation in England became more complicated — the power of the King waning while that of the Puritans waxed. In 1642, the Churchmen in Virginia passed a Conventicle Act, which bore so heavily upon the non-conforming Puritans that, in 1648, Governor Stone sent an invitation to the per- secuted men to come and enjoy the liberties which, in the next year, were to go upon our Statute Books, and to be their glory forever, 52 Annapolis as the Toleration Act. In 1649, therefore^ ten families crossed the Potomac, and on Sev- ern-side built a few huts, to which they gave the name of Providence. Affairs were moving rapidly. The King had laid down his life. It was declared treason to own allegiance to his exiled son. The shoe was now decidedly on the Puritan foot, and without loss of time they proceeded to re-read the Act of Toleration, and to make out a case for everybody but Church of England men and Romanists, who were now proscribed. This act of bigotry and ingratitude makes the darkest spot on the escutcheon of the Palat- inate, nor is there much that is pleasant to read in the jealousies, bickerings and aggres- sions of the next few years. A county was formed in 1650, and named in honor of the gentle Anne Arundel, wife of Lord Baltimore. A treaty of peace between the white men and the red was signed in 1652, and the name of the village was changed to " The Town at Proctors." These thino-s are about all we need to know until, the Revolution of 1688 having been accomplished, Maryland became a royal province, and the first royal governor. Sir Lionel Copley, came over. In 1694 the seat Annapolis 53 of government was removed from the original seat, St. Mary's, to the place which, after bear- ing three or four names, finally settled upon that of Annapolis, a mongrel title, assumed in honor of the then heiress to the Crown. There is but one rational way of beginning a sketch of the old town, and that is to look first, as did the wise-hearted early Annapoli- tans, at the Church, the State House, and the School, and to picture them as they stand on smooth green lawns, high on the little penin- sula, almost encircled by the silver marriage- ring of the Severn and its estuaries. The Church (for although the praise of God arises from many altars, the interest nat- urally centres in the eldest born) is a long, low structure, giving an odd impression of some seaworthy craft cast adrift upon the green tide- less sea of its spacious Circle. It was named, we fancy, for various Annes : the mother of the Virgin, the Lady Anne Arundel, and the Queen-to-be. St. Anne's it has ever been, bearing the name through three baptisms of fire, in one of which, it is said, the bell. Queen Anne's own gift, rung its own knell in a most weird and pathetic manner. Once upon a time its yard was the village burying-ground, 54 Annapolis but its early tenants have all been disturbed in their rest, and only one or two box-tombs remain, on which the sparrows, which have built themselves nests in the ivy on the walls, hop and chirp contentedly. The only relic still possessed by St. Anne's is the Communion Plate, which bears the arms of William III. and the date, 1695. It, too, was a gift from that "great Anne whom three realms obeyed," who seems to have had a special fondness for sending like mementoes to the infant colonies. The first clergyman, Dr. Bray, sent out to care for the souls of the Annapolitans, re- ceived ten thousand pounds of tobacco as his stipend — this, of course, after the Church of England was made the Established Church. Seats were reserved in the sacred edifice for the Governor and members of the legislative bodies ; and in addition their attendance was made compulsory. The first missionary meet- ing of which we hear in America was held in St. Anne's, when a pious annual five -and - twenty pounds was voted to be applied to the conversion, not of the heathen Susquehan- noghs, as one might have expected, but of the Quakers of Pennsylvania ! Not far from the Church stands the first free ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE AND THE TREATY TREE. 55 56 Annapolis school on the continent, once King William's School, and under the direction of the Arch- bishop of Canterbury, but, for many a long and useful year, St. John's College. Its principal building, McDowell Hall, was built in 1744, for a royal governor, and is flanked by digni- fied houses standing well back upon the green campus, a picture of ivy-clad repose that is very pleasing. A part of a gift of books sent by the good King William is still cherished in the library, and on the roll of students are many of the brightest names the State can boast. On the campus stands a very old tulip- tree. Tradition says that under its shadow the treaty with the Susquehannoghs was signed in 1652, and it is certain that it must have been of great age even then. A fire burned away part of its trunk years ago, but the hole was boarded up, a friendly ivy has done its best to hide the scars, and the brave old tree yields its toll of blossoms to each passing June, and bids fair to do so when the grandsons of the young- est lad now playing beneath its branches shall come to visit this lost monarch of a vanished forest. Here were pitched the tents of the French troops which came to aid us in our hour of peril, and here were camps again 58 Annapolis during our second struggle with England, and during the Civil War. Nor did all leave when the order to strike tents came. " Under the sun and the dew, Waiting the Judgment Day," the tenants of some low grassy mounds here sleep in nameless peace. If Annapolis is the heart of Maryland — its cor cordiwn lies in the State House standing in the great green circle which overlooks the city, the river and the bay. Like the Church, it is now wearing its third outward and visible form, fire having destroyed the two earlier structures. The corner-stone of the present edifice was laid in 1772, and it was designed in the best spirit of the style we call colonial. Ample spaces of English patterned brick divide its rather small windows, a simple pillared portico guards its doorway, and it is covered by a curious but very agreeable dome. Under its roof the vari- ous executive, legal and legislative branches of the State government find lodging. Its ro- tunda is decorated with the most elaborate stucco work, and throughout the old pile are many, many memorials of days gone by : none Annapolis 59 of them more interesting than the Great Seal, brought over by Governor Stone in 1648, and which is, substantially, the coat-of-arms of the Calverts. From the dome and the portico fine views can be obtained. There is a dignity and consequence about the building which not even the noisiest session of the Legislature can wholly dissipate ; in a word, the old State House is the pride and glory of the common- wealth. We have not even touched upon the gallant part played by the citizens of the town and the colony in the Revolution ; but at last the war was over, Washington had bidden adieu to his troops in New York, and had come hither to lay In the hands of the Congress of the States, in session in the chamber in which the Treaty of Peace was to be signed a year later, his commission as Commander-in-chief of the armies. That he had been nominated to that high office by a Marylander, Thomas Johnson, who had, in 1777, become the first Governor of the State, added not a little to the interest of a scene described by every pen that writes of the times. The simplicity, manliness, pathos and true dignity of the event have never been better portrayed than in the vast painting 6o Annapolis which adorns the historic room. Portraits of our four signers, Paca, Stone, Chase, and Carroll of Carrollton, are also seen here, as well as those of other men who fought with pen or sword to make us free. An odd little building, with flagged floors, huge bolts, and most ponderous keys, still stands on the Circle, and serves as our Treasury. It was once the home of the House of Burgesses, and is perhaps the only buildinof left to us from the seventeenth cen- tury. And there are statues here of Chief Justice Taney, and of Baron DeKalb, who fell at the head of his Marylanders in the battle of Camden ; but, more distinctly than these, we see the figures of Washington and Lafayette and all that goodly fellowship, and it is they CHAFiLES CARROLL OF CARRO'-LTONI. 1737-1832. Annapolis 6i who will walk the State House green when the bronzes are dust. Wandering through the leafy streets, with ever a glimpse of bright water, or a white sail shining between the trees, one notes the Old World flavor of their names ; Cornhill, Han- over, Prince George (of Denmark), King George (the First), Duke of Gloucester — in THE OLD HOUSE OF BURGESSES, NOW USED AS THE STATE TREASURY. honor, this, of the pathetic little royal child whose early death broke the heart of William of Orange, and left Queen Anne a childless woman. And the houses that border the streets, sometimes set close to the pavement, sometimes half hidden by trees, are worthy of them, and of the air of unspeakable content- ment and aloofness from the cares of this world 62 Annapolis which is characteristic of the place. Here is one built by the Proprietary Governor, Ogle, spacious and elegant, in whose garden are yet some bits of the box-bordering of a forgotten labyrinth, and here is one whose carved door- way arrests every eye. The Paca homestead THE BRICE HOUSE. has wings that are little houses of themselves, joined to the house proper by long, low corri- dors ; and opposite to it, in the delightful little Iglehart house, there is a panelled room where ghosts might walk. The facade of the Brice mansion, built of English brick, as is many another in the town, with long corridors and Annapolis 63 transverse wings, is said to be two hundred feet long ; while within, the drawing-room situ- ated in the old fashion at the back of the house that it might overlook the garden, is yet the delight and despair of architects, so noble are its proportions, and so fine the carved work of its cornice and chimney-piece. The fame of the latter is, indeed, international. On the State House Circle the Randall or Bordley house, built in 1 740, stands in a proud seclu- sion of magnolias and ivy-hung trees, and be- hind a tiny paddock where a pretty Jersey cow sometimes grazes. Not far away the Lloyd or Chase house lifts its walls in a haughty con- sciousness of being the finest specimen of its class in America. It not only boasts of ma- hogany doors with wrought-silver latches, carved shutters and cornices, noble drawing- rooms and chambers, a vast hall with a curious, double-flight of stairs, but has also a carved breakfast-room which is ideal. On Hanover Street is the stone mansion of Anthony Stewart, the merchant whose brig, the Peggy Stewart, came into harbor one Octo- ber day in 1764, laden with the repudiated tea. So incensed were the stout-hearted An- napolitans that, to escape their ire, poor 64 Annapolis Anthony, with his own hands, set fire to the ill-starred brig, his wife, the Peggy for whom the boat was named, watching from her cham- ber window the sacrificial flames mounting from the water's G<}gG. We keep a Peggy ■-"•■^"22v^53!9P;5i^irr THE PEQQY STEWART HOUSE. Stewart Day, now, in Maryland, and some of us like to remember that Peggy, too, was once the mistress of a breakfast-room which was ideal. At the foot of Duke-of-Gloucester Street, in 1 760, John Ridout built for himself and his chil- THE BURNING OF THE PEGGY STEWART. FROM THE PAINTJNG BY FRANK B. MAYER. 65 ■66 Annapolis dren three houses that are Hke a castle ; and just across, hidden by the beautiful St. Mary's Church, lies Carrollton, the home of Charles Carroll.^ It is occupied now by the Redemp- torist priests, and the profane shoe of a woman can gain for its owner no nearer view than that to be had from the bridge that spans the water- way below. It looks a very charming place, built in the Dutch rather than the Georgian taste : gray, small windows, high-roofed, and set in a garden which is what all Annapolis gardens are, and what all gardens everywhere ought to be, an ordered wilderness of hollies, box, magnolias, roses, lilacs, more roses and yet more lilacs, jessamine, wallflowers, iris, lilies, violets, daffodils, — all the old-fashioned flowers which ever were and ever will be the dearest and sweetest flowers in the world. It is hard to come back even to the first days of the century just closing. The defence ' Of all the deeds whereby Charles Carroll served his country, none, perhaps, was more noteworthy than the writing of the four letters to the Maryland Gazette, in 1773, signed "First Citizen." In them he pitted his young strength against the marvellous learning of Daniel Dulany, the greatest lawyer of all the colonies, whose let- ters to the same paper were signed " Antilon." His brave defence of the rights of the people brought Mr. Carroll the unprecedented honor of an adjournment of the Legislature that that body might visit his house e7i masse, to express its thanks and appreciation. Annapolis 67 made by the guns of Fort Severn, which kept Admiral Cockburn at bay, seem but recent history in the light of other years, nor can the stirring scenes of the Civil and Spanish wars claim even a glance. Filled with the spirit of the golden days of the Athens of America, we sit in the deep window-seat of a panelled room, looking out across intervening lush and flowery growths, at the dome of the State House and at the aerial procession of the old denizens. What a procession it is! Indians, explorers. Lords Proprietary, Governors Royal, Republican, Puritans, Cavaliers, priests, shipowners, sailors, slaves ! Ships sail out with rich freights of to- bacco and other Colonial produce, and ships sail in, bearing yet richer stores of silks and spices, wines and perfumes, silver and porcelain and sumptuous household furnishings. We see the growth in aristocracy, in wealth, in hospitality, in luxury, the plenty of those lav- ish boards, the splendor and courtliness of dress and manners of the gentry. Sedan chairs, carried by the liveried servants, attended by link boys and by bowing, perruqued gentlemen in gold-lace waistcoats and buckled shoes, bear the patched and powdered ladies to balls and 68 Annapolis routs. We hear the gossip of the playhouse — the first in America — -or of the races. The bon mots of the Tuesday Club are told again ; the wit flashes at the dinner given in honor of the King's birthday ; the defeat of the Pre- tender, the birth of the Dauphin, the repeal of the Stamp Act, the coming of Washington. Anything would " Serve as excuse for the glass " in those " Very merry, Dancing, drinking. Laughing, c^uaffing, and untliinking times." We hear, above the sfrave tones of the men who are talking of the affairs of state, the clear voices of the women — fair, slender, sweet, in pearls and brocade, singing to the accompani- ment of spinet or harpsichord music, as unlike ours as were their faces or their thoughts, and we all but forget that the Past is dead and can come no more, and that these are but echoes and shadows and the ashes of roses. Behind a long brick wall, gated and sentried, lies the United States Naval Academy, and another world, " But that," as Hans Andersen says, " is 70 Annapolis another story " ; a story familiar at a thousand American firesides where the life of a son dedi- cated to the navy is lived over by fond hearts ; a story told on every wave of every sea where our American ships ride on their mission. On the 13th of June, 1845, James K. Polk, being President of the United States, and George Bancroft, Secretary of the Navy — a letter was written by Mr. Bancroft to a Board of Examiners of Midshipmen, sitting in Phila- delphia, proposing the foundation of a naval school, and suggesting Fort Severn as a suita- ble site. Urged by Commodore Thomas Ap-Catesby Jones and Captain Isaac Mayo, the Committee approved the suggestion, and, although the usual congressional and sectional opposition had to be overcome, the School was opened on October loth of the same year. During the war there was a temporary flight to Newport, and there have been, from time to time, various schemes for removing it per- manently from Annapolis. It has long since become a permanent fixture, and additions have been made to the Fort Severn property (purchased in 1808), making an ample and beautiful home for the cadets and their corps of instructors. Annapolis 71 Time ceases to be subject to clocks when one enters the green, shady Academy grounds, beside which the waters flash and gleam, and bells divide the hours of the busy lives of the lithe young sailors who are forever marching under the trees to this duty or to that ; and whose four years of residence are crowded with ten thousand things which a landsman need not know, but which go to make a finished seaman. Among the officers, gravely saluting them as they go to classes, one sees many a famous face, for many of the simple, quiet gen- tlemen have done great deeds in their day. There are some memorials of older days — the monument which recalls our victory at Tripoli, some cannon captured in some " Sea-fight far away," and some figure-heads of ancient ships. Most precious of all is the worn flag, guarded jeal- ously in the Naval Institute, which bore the wonderful message " Don't give up the Ship." By the docks lie various craft needed for the instruction of the midshipmen ; and with 7^ Annapolis them the old Saniec, dismantled, a ghost of her- self, lies at her last moorings. She has seen strange sights in her day, the old Santee, none perhaps stranger than the trim young steel giants of our modern navy which steam up the Bay at times. ^(^'^^ THE OLD GOVERNORS' MANSION, NOW THE NAVAL ACADEMY LIBRARY. Historically, the gem of the Academy is the Library building, which was built by Edmund Jennings, and served as a home for our gov- ernors from 1760 until 1868. It has had Wash- ington for its guest, and many another great man of his time. And so, no doubt, had the Annapolis j^) fine old home of the Dulanys, near by, which was built as early as 1751. An iconoclastic superintendent ordered its destruction in 1883, — a loss irreparable to the lovers of the old town. And all are its lovers, who have once felt its abiding charm. FREDERICK TOWN THE GARDEN SPOT OF MARYLAND" By SARA ANDREW SHAFER LONG after the lower counties and the east- ern shore of Maryland had been turned from a wilderness into a rich and prosperous country, and after Annapolis had grown to be one of the most brilliant and important cities of the New World, there lay in the western part of the domain granted to the Calverts and their heirs forever a vast and beautiful region, which was not only Terra Marice, but terra incognita as well. Noble mountains, the remains of far older and nobler Alps, guarded the valleys worn by innumerable streams, and rich with the detritus of uncounted ages of erosion. Vegetation flourished under the kindly skies, and green things of every kind, from loftiest oaks to humblest mosses, grew in rank luxuri- ance over the heritage of the wild creatures of 75 76 Frederick Town earth and air, and the scarcely less wild In- dians. The Susquehannoghs, who chiefly lorded it here, were of the fearless and noble Iroquois stock, and, whatever they lacked, had certainly " a genius for nomenclature." Their " Love of lovely words has left in one fair valle}- such names as Catoctin for its loner western mountain rangre ; Linganore for its eastward hills, and Potomac, Monocacy and Tuscarora for its rivers and streams. Vanished, like the red leaves of an autumn forest, in these soft syllables we hear, even yet, the voices of the " First Families " of Frederick. One of the far-reaching consequences of the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, in 1685, was the unrest and fear which spread all over Europe, and scattered to the four winds tens of thousands of the best men, not only of France and the Low Countries, but of Germany, Switzerland and Bohemia. It is to one of these waves of emigration that we must look for the hardy pioneers who came southward from the settlements in Lower Pennsylvania. With the land-hunger and the land -judg- ment characteristic of the Teuton, they " took Frederick Town -]-] up," as the phrase goes, the lands lying along the river they — and the Carrolls, long after them — called Monnokasi, or Monockessy. Certain traits they brought with them as a matter of course, these Palatines, — as they were indiscriminatingly called, — industry, econ- omy, honesty, and an absolute devotion to the principles of civil and religious liberty. Some were Labadists, some Mennonites, some Lutherans, but for the greater part they were of the Calvinistic churches, and held the Hel- vetic Confession and the Heidelberg Cate- chism next in honor to the open Bible. Hardly less picturesque than the Indians were these pioneers : the women in homespun kirtle and linen bodice ; the men in the deerskin costume of the frontiersman, tomahawk, rifle and fringed leggings included. It was not long before they had built roads, cleared fields, sowed crops, built houses and barns, and had planted those countless lovely or- chards that make the valley one drift of rose and snow when May-time comes. In 1745 another settlement was begun along one of the newest roadways, the first house being built by Thomas Schley. There is a glim- mer of doubt as to whence came the name of yS Frederick Town the village and the county formed a year or so later. There was, it is true, a very disso- lute Frederick Calvert who died — the last Lord Baltimore — in 1771 ; but there was also a Frederick, Prince of Wales, father to King George III. ; and it was no doubt in his honor that the name was given by Charles Calvert, -then bowing and smiling at the English court. In 1766, the frontier troubles known as the French and Indian War had assumed such proportions that General Braddock came over to see what could be done about it. A young surveyor from Virginia, tall and brave, with splendid physique and a judgment which im- pressed all who came in contact with him, was invited to act as aide-de-camp for the British commander. The meeting between Braddock and George Washington took place in Fred- erick, in April of the ill-fated year 1755, as all men may read, not only in the pages of more serious historians, but also in a chronicle steeped with the very spirit of the eighteenth century, wherein William Makepeace Thack- eray has recounted the adventures of The Vir- ginians. Another visitor at the same time was Benjamin Franklin, Postmaster-General of the Colonies, who came to arrange for the delivery Frederick Town 79 of despatches to and from the expedition, and who then first saw the younger soldier. A court-house was building, by the way, but, by fair means or foul, Braddock, whose angry bluster and loud oaths we can yet almost hear, aided by the wily Franklin, impressed so many hundreds of horses, wagons, teamsters and ser- vants that the work was delayed for some years after the testy General, in his coach-and-six, drove off over the mountain on May - day morning. He left a memorial on Catoctin, — a walled-in spring of icy water, covered by a great flat rock, under whose shelter tiny ferns and silvery-green mosses love to grow. There was a road to Baltimore and to An- napolis as early as 1 760, and a curiously large commerce with the Saltzburgers who had set- tled in Georgia. The town flourished apace, and, besides the Palatines, some Scotch-Irish and many English began to arrive. The gen- try had not been slow in obtaining patents to the fertile lands. In 1723 the Carrolls re- ceived the splendid manor of Carrollton, ten thousand acres in extent. Daniel Dulany had eight thousand acres, and the last Lord Bal- timore nearly twice as much, while other gen- tlemen had estates of immense value. With 8o Frederick Town fortunes such as these figures represent a splendid style of living was possible, the effect of which was seen on every hand. In i 760. the Market House was built, and the Presbyte- rians had their pastor, while as early as 1764 the Reformed Church boasted of a belfry, which, remodelled in 1807, is yet one of the " Clustered spires of Frederick " that rise from what the enamored Washington called " the garden-spot of Maryland." In 1765, Father Hunter began the arduous duties of a priest whose flock was scattered over uncounted miles of wilderness ; and even before that, perhaps, the whole country, which embraced all that is now known as Western Maryland, was one parish of the Established Church, with x'\ll Saints' for its centre. Her clergymen had an annual revenue of five thou- sand pounds, and this rich plum was given to one or another of the beneficed clergy who too often disgraced the reign of the early Georges. The most notorious of all the New World incumbents was, perhaps, the Rev. Bennett Allen, who came to All Saints' in 1768, greatly against the will of the people. On the first Sunday after his arrival the 82 Frederick Town vestrymen left the church in a body. A peace- making worshipper ventured up to the pulpit with a remonstrance, only to be met with a drawn pistol in the clerical hand, and an oath- ful threat of immediate happy despatch if he interfered with the service. That his wild career included the murder of one Dulany in a duel, and the plotted assassination of an- other, and that he died an unknown, drunken outcast of London streets, is the shameful and pitiful ending of this o'ertrue tale. That he has been succeeded by a long line of devout and godly men has long ago effaced the stain he left upon the parish annals. Some miles to the northeast of the town a young man, Robert Strawbridge by name, who had imbibed the doctrines of the Wesleys, formed a class after their ideas in 1 764, which Bishop Asbury said was "the first in Mary- land and America." The small log chapel which they built antedated any other Metho- dist meeting-house in America by three years, which gives the county the right to the title of the Mother of American Methodism. History was fast making in those days. In 1 764 the Stamp Act was passed, and a com- missioner was appointed to distribute the Frederick Town 83 detested paper in the province of Maryland. Court was sitting in Frederick Town, but there was no paper of the prescribed variety on hand. On the 23d of November, 1765, twelve free men of Frederick decreed and de- clared that Frederick Court could attend to its own affairs without any aid from his Majesty the King, and that, paper or no paper, its work should proceed. John Darnell, the clerk, de- murred, refused to issue unstamped paper, was committed for contempt, submitted, and thus the first repudiation of the Stamp Act was ac- complished. The names of the twelve justices who, without hesitation or fear, took this great step, were these : Joseph Smith, David Lyon, Charles Jones, Samuel Beall, Joseph Beall, Pe- ter Bainbridge, Thomas Price, Andrew Hugh, William Blair, William Luckett, Thomas Dick- son and Thomas Beatty. People took their pleasures gladly in those days, and in an old New York Postboy (Janu- ary 2, 1766), and a yet older Philadelphia Ga- zette (December 26, 1 765), we read of a right jolly mock funeral, in which the Stamp Act was buried with much ceremony, the chief mourner being the unlucky distributor, Zacha- riah Hood, in effigy, which, during the frolic, 84 Frederick Town was hanged in the Court House Square, near the stocks and whipping-post. The usual sup- per and ball of the period ended the day. The skies grew ever darker, and, in the next old paper to which we turn, we read of pledges made to support the blockaded Bos- tonians, on whose shoulders the burden of a common injustice was laid. Next came the call to arms, and the start, on their long march to Boston, of two companies, in command of Cap- tain Michael Cresap, whose father had blazed his way to the Ohio. One of his lieutenants was John Ross Key, whose son Francis, yet unborn, was to make his name forever famous. On the roll of honor the county gives high place to Sergeant Laurence Everhart, who, in the battle of Cowpens, prisoner though he was, bore himself right haughtily in the pres- ence of Colonel Tarleton. Escaping by good fortune, a better fortune enabled him to deal a blow at a British officer whose sword was lifted aeainst Colonel William Auo^ustine Wash- ington, so saving that brave life. Long years afterward we hear of a meeting between the veterans, when " with tears and kisses " the old bond was strengthened. At home work scarcely less patriotic was Frederick Town 85 doing. Flax, hemp and wool were grown, spun and woven ; a gun-lock factory was estab- lished, saltpetre was made and in the iron fur- naces owned by D. Hughes and by Thomas Johnson and his brothers, cannon and bombs were cast. The Market House became an ar- senal. Hessian prisoners, hundreds of them, were confined in a log jail built for them, and in some stone barracks, still partly standing. To reinforce Washington, and to share the perils of Valley Forge, seventeen hundred men left home, and until peace was declared, the peo- ple of Frederick bore their share of the danger and the loss with all bravery and cheerfulness. It is like a page from the history of the dark- est ages, however, to read this sentence passed upon seven Tories, convicted of treasonable conspiracies : Yoii shall be carried to the gaol in Frederick to7vn, and be hanged therein : you shall be cut down to the earth alive, and your entrails shall be taken out and burned while you are yet alive. Your heads shall be cut off ; and your body shall be divided into four parts ; and your head and quarters shall be placed where His Excellency the Governor shall appoint. So Lord have mercy on your poor souls." This terrible sentence was in four instances executed ! 86 Frederick Town A mile or so north of the town, where the lands are richest, and the view up and down the valley and the blue mountains is finest, lies Rose Hill, where Thomas Johnson lived and died. Born in 1732, of sires who had com- ROSE HILL, THE HOME OF GOVERNOR THOMAS JOHNSON. manded ships against the Invincible Armada, this man had few peers in the era which his wisdom, his industry, his sterling honesty and his pure patriotism adorned. He had made a name at the brilliant provincial Bar, when in 1765, in answer to an appeal made by the Frederick Town 87 Massachusetts Assembly, a Maryland Assem- bly was formed, and he took his place among the men who had set for themselves the task of righting the wrongs of the colonies. He became a member of the Committee of Safety and the Committee of Remonstrance, and, in 1774, he aided John Adams, Richard Henry Lee and Patrick Henry in framing the Address to the Crown. On the 15th of June, 1775, Thomas Johnson nominated George Washington to be Commander-in-Chief of the Continental armies. This act, which would seem to be glory enough for one life, was but an incident in his busy days, for his name is heard of wherever probity and wise- heartedness were needed. That it does not appear on the Declaration of Independence is owing to the fact that the serious illness of a member of his family made his absence from Philadelphia necessary on that fateful 2d of July. When the partition from England was com- pleted, and the Colony became a State, he was chosen to be its first Governor, an office he filled for three terms. He was an ardent sup- porter of the Federal Constitution, and was one of those instrumental in making Washington 88 Frederick Town our first President. The portfolio of Sec- retary of State and the District Judgeship were earnestly and affectionately urged upon him by his old friend, who finally persuaded him to accept a seat upon the Supreme Bench. This he soon resigned, by reason of delicate health. Together with Daniel Carroll and Dr. Stewart he selected the sites for the Capi- tol, the President's mansion and various other public buildings of the new seat of govern- ment, after which he retired to private life ; his one subsequent public appearance being on the occasion of a commemorative funeral ser- vice after the death of Washington, when he pronounced a beautiful eulogy. His own life drew to its earthly close in 1819, and his dust rests in All Saints' burying-ground, surrounded by the ancient tombstones of his friends and neighbors, overgrown with wild grasses and myrtle, swept by the pure mountain winds and brooded by the deep peace of the valley he loved so well. His best eulogy was the few words spoken by John Adams in which he said that " but for such men as Richard Henry Lee, Thomas Jefferson, Samuel Chase and Thomas Johnson there would have been no Revolution." Q z z o < 3 2 S O m CO "i 90 Frederick Town After the peace the town grew steadily in wealth, comfort and luxury. The road which is called the National Pike, the great arter}' between East and West, was also the main street of Frederick, and was the scene of much life. Inns of great excellence divided the journeys into pleasant stages, wagons and coaches dashed out and in to a great snapping of whips, jangling of bells and blowing of horns, and while the horses were chanofed many a glimpse was had of the men who were talked about early in the nineteenth century. In 1797, Frederick College was founded. The church on the hill was outofrown. The older gentry had worshipped there ; Bishop Claggett had held there in 1 793 the first Con- firmation in the State, and the grassy church- yard was sacred with much holy dust, — but it was too small and remote for the growing con- gregation. Partly by gift, and partly by the curious aid of a lottery, a second church was built in 1814, still used and loved as All Saints' Chapel. It had a ceiling of singular beauty, high-backed pews, a gallery for servants, and in 1826 the "new organ," yet in daily use, was placed therein. One of the faithful worshippers in the church Frederick Town 91 was Francis Scott Key, who was born in the upper part of the county in 1780, but who spent some years of his early manhood prac- tising at the Fred- erick Bar. Of his . quiet, lovely life, but little is known, compara- tively, although a few persons yet linger who re- member him. A good citizen, a good master, a good lawyer, a poet of very sweet and true, if lim- ited, powers, the deep spirituality of whose few hymns can never sound elsewhere as in the old church, he would probably have passed through and out of life as many other good men do, but for the strain of one September night in 18 14, when his eager eyes watched for the first ray of dawn, if haply they might yet see the Star Spangled Banner FRANCIS SCOTT KEY. 92 Frederick Town afloat over Fort Mc Henry, and a nation's love and loyalty found everlasting voice through his. To Frederick, in 1801, came Mr. Key's close friend, soon to be his sister's husband, Roger Brooke Taney, for many }'ears Chief Justice of the United States. For twenty-one years he lived there, and returned, his long life, full of work and of honors, over, to sleep beside his mother in the lit- tle burial-place of the Jesuits at the Novitiate. May a brief pause be made in this hasty chronicle to look at the great Roman Catholic foundations of Frederick which lend such an unusual aspect to the part of the town in which they stand. The long, dull facade of the Noviti- ate fronts the school and the beautiful church, CHIEF JUSTICE ROGER E. TANEY. Frederick Town 93 and next that the great walls of the convent arise, shutting out the world from the still, cloistered life within. Many men eminent in the order have been part of the place — none of them more interesting, perhaps, than Father John Du Bois, who came thither in 1792. He was an emigre of the French Revolution, in which his old classmates at the Colleo-e of Louis-le-Grand, Camille Desmoulins and Robespierre, figured so largely, and he after- wards wore a mitre. In 1824, Lafayette included Frederick in his great tour of rejoicing, and was accorded the usual welcoming parades, speeches, dinner and ball. Only a few years ago a beautiful, blind old lady, who had been a beautiful, bright-eyed young wife, used to tell of her noble guest. She was a favorite granddaughter of Governor John- son, and in her girlhood had helped Louisa Johnson, the wife of John Ouincy Adams, to dispense the unpretentious hospitality of the White House. Mr. Adams, she said, got up and built his hearth-fire of a mornine himself ! It was a chapter from an old romance to listen to her kindly talk of " the old times and the days that were before us," and when she " went away,'' almost the last of the perfect breeding 94 Frederick Town and high simphcity of the old, old days left Maryland forever. So much must be left out that hardly a word can be given to the Civil War, which found the old town alive with the old fervor. Not that all its sons thought alike. Sometimes the gray uniforms thronored the streets ; sometimes the blue ; once there was even a skirmish on the main street. In the terrible Battle Autumn of 1862, Frederick was the heart of the war. Dr. Holmes came down, after Antietam battle, to make his famous " Hunt after the Captain," and even the sad, gaunt face of President Lin- coln was seen amonof the rows of wounded and dying men that filled convent and church — every available space. The roads for miles in every direction were crowded with the para- phernalia of war — of hurt and of healing. In the early September days. Generals Lee and Stonewall Jackson were both herewith the armies, gathering for the fearful struggles of South Mountain and Antietam. On the night of the 7th General Jackson drove into town in an ambulance, to attend divine service in the Reformed Church, where, as he wrote to his wife, and as is told of him by many who saw him, he fell asleep. On the morning of the Frederick Town 95 TOth, the camps breaking, and the march over the mountain beginning, General Jackson, with Major H. Kyd Douglass of his staff, rode to the Presbyterian manse on Second Street, to pay his respects to his friends, the Rev. Dr. THE OLD REFORMED CHURCH. and Mrs. Ross. As they had not yet arisen, the General pencilled a line of greeting and farewell, with military precision noting the hour, "5;^ A.M.," and remounting his horse under the great silver-poplar rode down Mill Alley, a 96 Frederick Town narrow lane which crosses Carroll Creek ])y a ford and a high foot-bridge, and so on to the Pike, or Patrick Street, where he rejoined his command, and led them west- ward. A few hundred yards to the east of Mill Alley, and a^rain across a winding of Carroll Creek, lived a very old and intensely loyal woman, Barbara Fri- tchie,whowas no myth, but a fig- ure familiar t o Frederick from time immemo- Born in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, on De- BARBARA FRITCHIE. rial. cember 3, 1 766, she had come, as Barbara Hauer, to Frederick so many years before that on the occasion of the visit of General Washington in 1791 and a ball given in his honor, she loaned some of her choice china Frederick Town 97 to adorn the table, and his Excellency drank a cup of tea poured from her yet carefully cherished teapot. She and her husband, John Fritchie, a glover, had long lived in a small house adjoining the creek which was demol- HOME OF BARBARA FRITCHIE. ished after one of the perilous floods to which the stream was formerly subject. On the op- posite side of the creek is a tiny park, with a deep, cool spring which is often called by her name, and from which many a weary soldier drank. She was of the Reformed faith, and her devotion to the Union cause was almost 98 Frederick Town passionate. Small hospitality had she for the tired Confederate who sometimes dropped for a moment's rest upon her " stoop." Such vis- itors were shown her cane, and in most vigorous Saxon were invited to " move on." It was said that just before the battle of South Mountain, as the Union troops were passing her house. General Reno, seeing her venerable welcoming- face, asked her age. " Ninety-six ! Boys, give three cheers for ninety-six ! " he cried, and so rode on to his death. Perhaps she waved a small flag at him, but this one thing we know, that until Barbara Fritchie, who died on the i8th of December of that year, and Stonewall Jackson met in Whittier's stirring ballad, they never met at all. Those who honor the memory of a brave Christian soldier are glad that the story is not true ; those who see in the poem an incident too picturesque to be willingly lost from the story of the war, are sorry that it is not ; but all who have seen the valley will be for ever grateful for the perfect picture of its loveliness. Clinging to its old faiths, its old churches, its old traditions, its old customs ; clinging to its old houses, its old mahogany and china Frederick Town 99 and portraits, Its sweet old gardens and its sweeter friendliness and helpfulness and loy- alty, the generations come and go. " And ever the stars above look down On the stars below in Frederick town." THE HATED BRITISH TAX- STAMP, 1765-1766. WASHINGTON THE NATION'S CAPITAL By frank a. VANDERLIP MANY generations before George Washing- ton, as the New World Romulus, paced off in person the metes and bounds of the Fed- eral City, the powerful Algonquin tribe of American Indians had established their capital within the confines of what is now the District of Columbia. Powhatan, the father of Poca- hontas, conducted, with his eighty painted chiefs, his savage councils of war, or peaceably smoked his calumet within view of the hill des- tined to become the site of the forum of the Republic. Nacochtank, afterwards Latinized as Anacostan by the Jesuit fathers who ac- companied Lord Baltimore to Maryland, and now called Anacostia, a suburb of Washington, was the precise location of Powhatan's wigwam capital. I02 Washington The first white man to approach the seat of government of these barbarian warriors was Captain John Smith, who sailed up the " Pat- awomeke " in 1608. The famous adventurer only partially explored the country, the princi- pal item in the log-book of his voyage being that he found the river " full of luscious fish and its shores lined with ferocious savages." Sixteen years later there began to appear in British publications vivid recitals of adventure in the regions bordering the Patawomeke, and alluring descriptions of the " fair and fertile " domain surrounding the ancient capital of the Algonquins. These articles were written by Henry Fleet, a daring trader, who, in search of furs, and braving the perils of capture, had gone fearlessly as an uncommissioned ambas- sador to the council-seats of the Monahoacs, the Monacans and the Powhatans, had estab- lished trade relations with these crude inhabi- tants and had roamed at will through their wildernesses. " The most healthful and pleas- antest region in all this country " was his characterization of that portion of Maryland embracing the district to be chosen nearly three centuries later as the seat of our national Government. Washington 103 The description of this region sent to Eng- land by the intrepid fur trader attracted, in 1660, a party of emigrants who founded homes in the Maryland forests and meadows, fought or bargained for advantage with the Indiajis, and soon reduced to ruin the rude huts of their primitive capital. Husbandry invaded their domains and corn and wheat crops were grown. It looked as if romance had fled to remoter forests, and that henceforth that por- tion of the New World now the capital city of the United States would be given over to the " homely joys and destiny obscure " of emi- grant farmers and their heirs. For more than a hundred years the only record these humble settlers gave the outside world was that they had found the soil produc- tive and that their farms were bordered by a majestic river on which white swan floated in innumerable flocks. It was reserved for the father of the Ameri- can Republic to discover that from the time of the original occupation of the region this sim- ple colony of wood-choppers and ploughmen had cherished a reputed prophecy made in 1663 that this locality would, in the course of destiny, become the renowned capital of a great nation,. I04 Washino^^ton To Washinirton and Major L'Enfant, who in an antique tavern in Georgetown met the heirs and descendants of these pioneers to negotiate the transfer of property to the Gov- ernment, the strange story was told that one, Francis Pope, in the year 1663, had had a vision wherein he beheld a stately house of parliament on Avhat is now Capitol Hill. In pursuance of this dream he had purchased that eminence and had called it " Rome," and in further keeping with his sense of divination had given to a sluggish yellow stream at the base of the hill the name of " Tiber." Pope, it was asserted, died in the faith that the wooded hill he had christened would some day be crowned with a grand edifice devoted to the deliberations of a mighty empire. Some of the more irreverent settlers, dolefully observing the continued re- moteness of Pope's uninhabited " Rome" from any possible capital, derisively substituted, it was claimed, the name Goose Creek for the Tiber and denied the hill the dignity of even a colloquial title. The Tiber still flows on, but in the obscurity of a modern sewer. The poet, Tom Moore, who stumbled through the bogs and over the " magnificent Washington 105 distances " of what pretended to be a capital city in 1804, turned the story around and pic- tured the founders of the city revehng in bur- lesque dreams concerning the future of the capital, and attempt- ing to mimic the glory of Rome and give absurd dignity to Goose Creek by nam- ing it the Tiber. The original maps of the city, drawn by Major L'Enfant in 1790, give both names t o the stream, and there has come to light a much older document, proving the groundlessness of the poet's lampoon, and giv- ing substance to the romantic tale concerning Francis Pope and his prophecy. It is his original abstract of title and reads as follows : " June the 5th, 1663. Layd out for Francis Pope of this Province Gentleman a parcel of land in Charles County called Rome lying on the East side of the Ana- costian River beginning at a marked oak standing by the river side, the bounded tree of Captain Robert Troop and running north by the river for breadth the length 200 perches to a bounded oak standing at the PIERRE CHARLES L'ENFANT. io6 Washington mouth of a bay or inlet called Tiber . . . and now laid out for 400 acres more or less." Whether this nomenclature in the title at- tests the dream of this pioneer or was adopted by him in a spirit of whimsical humor may be left to the fancy of the reader, but the fact that 237 years ago Capitol Hill was called Rome, and a stream at its base the Tiber, gives dramatic interest to the reputed proph- ecy. It is one of the several beautiful tra- ditions that impart a romantic interest to the genesis of Washington. The record of the complicated circumstances resultinor in the final location of a site for the capital is one of the most fascinating chapters in American history. The Continental Con- gress was a migratory body. It had no abid- ing capital, the exigencies of war forcing it from city to city. During the stress of the Revolution it convened its sessions at Phila- delphia, Baltimore, Lancaster, York, Princeton, Annapolis, Trenton and New York City. For four years prior to the capitulation of Cornwallis, Congress had held its sessions in Philadelphia, and the city seemed destined to become the permanent capital. Public senti- ment favored such selection, for the Quaker Washington 107 City was indentified with most of the o-reat and far-reaching acts of the American colonies. There a document of human rights, unparal- leled since Magna Charta, had been signed by a company of immortals, and there the Liberty Bell had pealed forth its joyous tones for freedom. Notwithstanding the splendid sentiments favoring the retention of Philadelphia as the capital, there were statesmen in that day who opposed selecting a city whose immediate in- terests and political strength might influence and perhaps dominate the legislation that should be national. Paris had not yet risen to override France, but London had at times shown its mastery over Parliament and the King. Some of the public men, therefore, hopeful of establisiiing the capital remote from the concentrated power of a great city, favored the creation of a city that should be wholly under the control of the nation. The project might never have been accom- plished but for the mutinous uprising of a body of unpaid soldiers who attempted to compel Congress by force of arms to settle their arrears. In this extremity, the Execu- tive Council of Pennsylvania was appealed to, io8 Washington but declined to interfere, claiming that the State militia could not be relied upon, as its members were largely in sympathy with the revolters. In the bankrupt condition of the Treasury, however, Congress had a sure de- fence, and the hopelessness of further sedition served to disarm the insurrectionary band. But Congress had learned its lesson and sought a more peaceful session at Trenton. From this time, with Congrress sittino; in various cities until i 790, the question of select- ing a permanent site for the capital became one of the most engrossing issues before the American people. New York offered public buildings free ; Virginia and Maryland offered to cede districts ten miles square and to fur- nish additional subsidies as an inducement. The advantages of Philadelphia and Balti- more were ably advanced, while Germantown, Conogocheague, Wright's Ferry, Peach Bot- tom and other ambitious centres sent persua- sive orators into the acrimonious forum to plead their respective cla'ms. Contumacy, satire, hatred, envy and unrea- son struggled with wisdom and patriotism for nearly a decade. It was conceded by all that the American capital should be fixed as near Washington 109 as possible to what would remain the centre of population, but as to the location destined to enjoy the distinction there was the greatest possible conflict of conjecture. Goodhue de- clared that it would remain in the North for countless ages, and that when it did shift it would travel toward the manufacturing districts of New England. Stone of Maryland argued that as the tides of humanity followed the lines of least resist- ance, they would flow into the warm and fertile South. The vast domain to the westward was not taken into the calculations of statesmen pre- dicting the course of empire. The profoundest philosophers of the latter part of the eigh- teenth century were unable to grasp the transformations soon to be wrought by the application of steam. They could not dream that subsequent generations would establish a teeming civilization in the distant and unmeas- ured solitudes. A century later, when the eleventh census was taken, the centre of popu- lation was five hundred and twenty miles west- ward of the spot Congress had fixed upon as the unchanging focus of our growth. Madi- son alone caught a glimpse of continental I lo Washington possibilities, and believed that America mifrht " speedily behold an astonishing- mass of peo- ple on the western waters ; " and although for that reason it might be impossible to select a site for the capital that would remain central as regards population, it was of the utmost importance to choose a point whence the knowledge of new enactments could be the most quickly disseminated throughout the land. If it were possible, he contended, to promulgate the proceedings of Congress by some simultaneous operation, it would be of less consequence where the seat of govern- ment mieht be established. A site alonor the Potomac began to be favored, as the then pro- jected canal, now paralleling the Potomac from Georofetown to Cumberland, would afford the most convenient and rapid means of conveying to waiting citizens beyond the Alleghanies the documentary decrees of the Congress of the United States. Could Washington and his colleagues have imagined that in a later age the tidings of the deliberations of Congress, instead of depend- ing for transmission upon canal-boats, would be flashed instantly, by the clicking of mysteri- ous keys, to the distant shores of the continent, Washington 1 1 1 and even to possessions beyond the seas, the Potomac to-day would probably not be graced by the beautiful city of Washington. Nearly all the members agreed that the cap- ital should be located on some waterway com- municatinor with the Atlantic and connected with the territory of the West. The Dela- ware, the Susquehanna, the Potomac, and even Codorus Creek, were urged. In the midst of the diatribes which these debates created, the unconscious comedian of the House, Thomas Vining of Maryland, delivered a speech in favor of the Potomac which became famous not for its lucidity or logic, but for the absurdities of its bombast. Charles Dickens's comment concerninof Con- gressional debate of a later day, that the constit- uents of American statesmen boasted not of what their representatives said, but of the length of time they talked, would have fitting- ly described the attitude of the popular mind toward the fight for the capital. Every mem- ber of both Houses had won the plaudits of his respective followers by almost endless speeches championing some locality, or de- voted to arraignment of the sinister motives of opponents. I 12 Washington Mr. Vining's speech was a decided relief. In the first place, it was brief, and secondly, its freedom from malevolence together with its bizarre humor gave it a distinction unique in the famous controversy. "Though the interest of the State I represent is in- volved in it," said he, " I am yet to learn of the Com- mittee whether Congress are to tickle the trout on the stream of the Codorus, to build their sumptuous palaces on the banks of the Potomac, or to admire commerce with her expanded wings on the waters of the Delaware. I liave, on this occasion, educated my mind to impar- tiality and have endeavored to chastise its prejudices. I confess to the House and to the world, that viewing the subject with all its circumstances, I ani in favor of the Potomac. I wish the seat of government to be fixed there, because I think the interest, the honor and the greatness of the country require it. I look on it as the centre from which those streams are to flow that are to animate and invigorate the body politic. From thence, it appears to me, the rays of government will most nat- urally diverge to the extremities of the Union. I declare that I look on the western territory in an awful and striking point of view. To that region the unpolished sons of earth are flowing from all quarters, men to whom the protection of the laws, and the controlling force of the government are equally necessary ; from this great consideration I conclude that the banks of tlie Potomac are the proper station." Obscurity of logic and serio-comic rhetoric Washinofton 1 1 'fe had accomplished what solemn oratory and studied satire had failed to do, and the House, for the first time since the question of locatino- the capital had provoked the ambitions and hostilities of every State, joined in unanimous and jocular applause. The Constitution adopted in 1787 gave to Congress the power to " exercise exclusive legislation in all cases whatsoever over such District (not exceeding ten miles square) as may by cession of particular States and the acceptance of Congress become the seat of the Government of the United States." This provision served only to increase the compe- tition. After the conflicting efforts of several States to secure the prize, a bill was passed on September 27, 1789, locating the capital at Germantown, but, pending an amendment to the bill, the Senate adjourned, and when the next session was convened both Houses had decided to change their vote. The contest miorht have continued lone enough to dismember the Union but for the genius of Jefferson and Hamilton, who brought about a compromise. Jefferson, in his A7ia, has recorded the inside history leading to the final selection of a site for the capital. At the 114 Washington time Hamilton was urcring the passage of his bill to have the Federal Government assume the State debts, amounting to $20,000,000. The measure was defeated in the House, and Hamilton invoked Jefferson's aid to secure a reconsideration, stating that the creditor States of the East threatened secession if their claims were not considered. " I proposed to him," says Jefferson, " to dine with me the next day, and I would invite another friend or two and bring them into conference together, and I thought it impossible that reasonable men, consulting together coolly, could fail by some mutual sacrifices of opinion, to form a compromise which was to save the Union. The discussion took place. It was finally agreed that whatever importance had been attached to the rejection of the proposition, the preservation of the Union and of concord among the States was more important, and that, therefore, it would be better that the vote of rejection should be rescinded, to effect which some members should change their votes. But it was observed that this pill would be peculiarly bitter to the Southern States, and that some concomitant measure should be adopted to sweeten it a little to them. There had been proposi- tions to fix the seat of government either at Philadelphia or at Georgetown, on the Potomac ; and it was thought by giving it to Philadelphia for ten years and to George- town permanently afterwards, this might calm in some degree the ferment which might be occasioned by the other measure alone. So two of the Potomac members, Washington 1 1 5 White and Lee, agreed to cliange their votes, and Ham- ilton undertook to carry the other point." Some historians have accepted Jefferson's account as final, but others, studying the in- flexible purposes of Washington, believe that a controlling power more potent than the wine and compromises at a political dinner finally secured the vote for the Potomac site. Years before, when a young lieutenant, encamped with Braddock's army on Observatory Hill, Washington had " noted the beauty of the broad plateau " on which the Capitol was destined to be reared, and had " marked the breadth of the picture, and the strong colors in the ground and the environing wall of wooded heights which rolled back against the sky, as if to enclose a noble area of landscape, fit for the supreme deliberations of a conti- nental nation." The loftiest minds in Congress were swayed by Washington's judgment. They agreed with him that America should establish the splendid precedent of a nation locating and founding a city by legislative enactment for its permanent capital. Furthermore, they wished to honor their first President and the orreat eeneral and counsellor who had made their independence ii6 Washington possible, by conferring upon him the power to select for this Federal city the locality he had in prophetic fancy chosen as a suitable site for the capital of the Republic. In the act passed July i6, 1790, Congress expressed its faith in the President by permit- ting him to establish the capital anywhere alone the Potomac between the East Branch and the Conogocheague, a distance of eighty miles. The boundaries of no other city were ever fixed by so illustrious a surveyor. It is recorded that, as he walked over the wilder- ness with his engineering instruments and corps, he was harassed by the " importunities of anxious residents and grasping speculators," but not for a moment did he waver in his purpose to select the site whose majesty had appealed to him in former years as a fitting environment for the Federal home. Within nine months the confines of the fed-, eral territory were established. The corner- stone was laid with appropriate ceremonies at Jones's Point, Alexandria, April 15, 1791, but the territory west of the river was re- troceded to Virginia in 1846. Not a cent was advanced by Congress for buildings or grounds. In fact, with an empty treasury Washino^ton 1 1 7 't> and no credit, Congress was unable to give financial aid. Washington himself drew up the original agreement by which the owners were to convey the land to the Government. The proprietors agreed that all lands necessary for streets, ave- nues, alleys, etc., should be surrendered free of cost. The building lots were to be equally ap- portioned between the Government and the individuals. For the larger plots necessary for public buildings and other government uses, the owners were to receive compensation at the rate of £2^ per acre. Washington thought that by this arrangement the Government might sell the smaller lots and with the proceeds "buy the large ones needed for public uses. It is a memorable picture, that of the " Cin- cinnatus of the West," the renowned states- man. President, general and engineer, planting his theodolite here and there, marking the con- fines of the capital city, or travelling on horse- back to the Georgetown tavern to discuss terms and titles with the owners of the land. The spectacle of Washington laying out the city and presiding at the laying of the corner- stone of its Capitol, appealed to the dramatic sense of Daniel Webster, who in delivering the ii8 Washington oration on the occasion of the laying of the corner-stone of the extension of the Capitol, July 4, 1 85 1, alluded as follows to the city's illustrious founder: " He heads a short pro- STATUE OF GEN. WINFIELD SCOTT, WASHINGTON. cession over these naked fields ; he crosses yonder stream on a fallen tree ; he ascends to the top of this eminence, whose original oaks of the forest stood as thick around him as if Washington 119 the spot had been devoted to Druidical wor- ship, and here he performs the appointed duty of the day." The planning of the city was entrusted to Pierre Charles L'Enfant, who had been a major of engineers during the Revolution, and later had proved a popular architect both in Phila- delphia and New York. He studied the Poto- mac situation and drew up the plan of a city on so magnificent a scale that it was considered wild and chimerical. Nothing like it existed in the New World, and few cities In the Old equalled the grandeur of his projections. L'Enfant was removed before having pro- gressed far with the work, and Andrew Elllcott of Pennsylvania was appointed In his place. But the present widely admired plan of Wash- ington had Its origin In the artistic, creative mind of L'Enfant. In 1792, Congress voted him a sum of five hundred guineas, and deeded him a lot in Washington, as compensation for his services ; but the designing of the capital city had been to him a work of art and love, and he rejected all considerations of payment. His dismissal had been brought about by his refusal to sub- mit his plans to the Commissioners, his defence I20 Washington being that if his design were pubhshed specu- lators would seize upon the " vistas and archi- tectural squares and raise huddles of shanties which would permanently disfigure the city." When Madison became President, he sought to honor L'Enfant by offering him the profes- sorship of engineering at West Point, but again the artistic foreigner declined to accept any- thing at the hands of the people who, he felt, had failed to appreciate the supreme effort of his genius. His final years he spent as a pensioner at the manor houses of the Digges family in Maryland. He died in the home of Dudley Digges in 1824, and was buried in the garden of the Chellum Castle Manor near Bladensburg, where to-day his grave is marked only by a cedar tree. Inasmuch as the great projects of L'Enfant are receiving to this day the attention of the Government, it would not be inappro- priate, in the centennial year of Washington's existence, to give his remains fitting and affec- tionate sepulture in the city he designed. The Commissioners, at a meeting held in Georgetown, September 8, 1791, decided to call the Federal district, " Territory of Colum- bia," and the Federal city, the " City of Wash- ineton." At this same meeting the method of Washington 121 designating the streets by letters and numbers was adopted. The name of the city has re- mained unchanged, but the name of the territory was afterwards changed by Congress to the " District of Cohimbia." For a short time after the city was plotted, Washington enjoyed its first real estate boom, although that word was not then known. The lots sold more readily abroad than at home, and for a time brought extravagant prices in London. However, comparatively few seem to have been disposed of, and the meagre re- turn from sales was most unfortunate because the money was badly needed to pay for the first public buildings. Finally, the President made a personal appeal to Maryland, which lent $100,000, not, however, without first securing the personal bond of the Commissioners. The Capitol was planned by Dr. William Thornton, an Englishman, who seems to have been a man of some natural talent, but un- skilled in architecture. Stephen L. Hallett, a professional house-builder, also submitted specifications for the building, and there is good reason to suppose that Thornton's plans, as finally accepted, were considerably affected by Hallett's more practical drawings. 122 Washington When the corner-stone of the Capitol was ready to be laid, great preparations were made for the event. Companies of militia and artillery were called out, and civic societies, public officials and many distinguished citizens were invited. With appropriate ceremonies of the military and of the Masonic order, the President deposited in the corner-stone, to- gether with corn, wine, and oil, a silver plate bearing this inscription, which the Commis- ioners first ordered to be read aloud : " This Southeast Corner Stone of the Capitol of the United States of America in the City of Washington was laid on the i8th day of September, 1793, in the thirteenth year of American Independence, in the first year of the second term of the Presidency of George Washington, whose virtues in the civil administration of his country have been as conspicuous and beneficial as his military valor and prudence have been useful in establishing her liberties, and in the year of Masonry, 5793, bv the Presi- dent of the United States, in concert with the Grand Lodge of Maryland, several lodges under its jurisdiction, and Lodge No. 22, from Alexandria, Virginia. Thomas Jefferson, David Stuart, Daniel Carrol, Commissioners. Joseph Clark, R. W. G. M. P. T. James Hoban, Stephen Hallett, Architects. CoLLEN Williamson, M. Mason." ■mt^^^"*^ 124 Washington Two years later Thomas Twinint;-, an Eng- lish traveller who had taken an important part in laying- the foundations of the Indian Empire, visited Washington, and thus describes a trip from Georgetown to Mr. Law's house at Washino-ton : O " Having crossed an extensive tract of level country somewhat resembling an English heath, I entered a large wood through which a very imperfect road had been made, principally by removing the trees, or rather the upper parts of them, -in the usual manner. After some time this indistinct way assumed more the appearance of a regular avenue, the trees here having been cut down in a straight line. Although no habitation of any kind was visible, I had no doubt but I was now riding along one of the streets of the metropolitan city. I continued in this spacious avenue for half a mile, and then came out upon a large spot, cleared of wood, in the centre of •vhich I saw two buildings on an extensive scale, and some men at work on one of them. The only human beings I should have seen here not a great many years before would have been some savages of the Potomac, whose tribe is said to have sent deputies to treat with William Penn at the assembly he held at Chester. " Advancing and speaking to these workmen, they in- formed me that I was now in the centre of the city, and that the building before me was the Capitol, and the other destined to be a tavern. As the greatest cities have a similar beginning, there was really nothing sur- prising here, nor out of the usual order of things ; but Washington 125 still the scene which surrounded me — the metropolis of a great nation in its first stage from a sylvan state — was strikingly singular. I thought it the more so, as the accounts which I had received of Washington while at Philadelphia, and the plan which 1 had seen hung up in the dining-room at Bladensburg, had prepared me for something rather more advanced. Looking from where I now stood, I saw on every side a thick wood pierced with avenues in a more or less perfect state." Sometime before this, and in answer to an advertisement by the Commissioners, James Hoban, an Irish architect, then actine as su- pervising architect of the Capitol, had sub- mitted plans for a " President's House," and they had been accepted. Inasmuch as the Act of Congress creating the District decreed that the houses for Congress and the President should be ready for occupancy by the year 1800, the work on both was now carried for- ward vigorously. Washington, retiring to his home at Mount Vernon at the close of his second term in 1797, gave over the care of the Federal city to his successor, John Adams. President Adams first appointed a new archi- tect for the Capitol, Stephen Hallett, who resigned after holding the position for one year. George Hadfield, an Englishman, next appointed, resigned in 1798, and left James 126 Washington Hoban, the supervising- architect, to finish the work alone. Congress having- adjourned about May 20, 1800, to meet in Washington in November, the seat of ijovernment was removed from Philadelphia to Washington early in June of that year. The records and files of the vari- ous departments were transferred by vessels chartered for the purpose, and, as soon as pos- sible, were put in order in the buildings to which they had been assigned. The govern- ment officials and clerks came by stage, bring- ing their families with them. From the records of the Treasury Department it appears that the Government met all the expenses of mov- ing them and their household effects. When the government officials arrived, only the north wing of the Capitol had been com- pleted, while the Treasury Building, a plain two-story structure of thirty rooms located on the site of the south front of the present edifice, was the only public building ready for the oc- cupancy of the executive departments. Work had been begun on the War Office at the southwest corner of the White House grounds. When Congress convened in November, lit- tie progress had been made. The few hotels 128 Washington and buildings of the city were so overcrowded that few of the members could secure quarters nearer than Georgretown, three miles awav through mud and forest. Streets existed for the most part only on paper, and Pennsylvania Avenue, the principal thoroughfare, was really a bog lined with bushes. The only sidewalk, that from the Capitol to the Treasury, being made of stone chippings, so wounded the feet and tempers of pedestrians as to make the mud of the street preferable. One of the few ladies to follow their hus- bands into " the wilderness " at this time was Mrs. Adams. To her belonofs the distinction of beinof the first mistress to orrace the Presi- dent's house. The house itself was but par- tially finished, and, though Congress had appropriated $6000 with which to furnish it, but little of the furniture was in place when she arrived. Mrs. Adams, however, seems to have been of a bright and cheerful disposition, for, in her letters to her dautrhter, she o-ives a more lenient account of the inconveniences and a more just view of the possibilities of the city than many of the new residents. During the short remaining period of President Adamxs's term, Mrs. Adams assisted her husband to 130 Washino^ton receive at many formal dinners and stately functions, and under their combined influence Washington society became as polished and as exclusive as the best in other cities. A drawback to the city's progress lay in the constant agitation for the removal of the capi- tal — an agitation that in no wise abated until in very recent times, when the railroad and the telegraph overcame " remoteness and in- accessibility," the chief grounds for complaint. The press of New York and Philadelphia united with the Northern members in declaim- ing against the discomforts of the infant city, and such pressure was brought to bear that in March, 1804, ^ bill "to remove the seat of government to Baltimore " passed to its sec- ond readiuir in the Senate. However, the " Capital-movers," as they came to be called, succeeded only in retarding the growth of the city. As a result, at the close of Jefferson's administration there were but five thousand inhabitants. The North spread the sarcasm that Washington was a city of streets without houses and houses without streets. The ludi- crous fame of America's capital created laugh- ter even in Europe. Foreigners after gazing at the President's house were said to peer into Washington i^i the woods and inquire ingenuously where the city was. The satire of Tom Moore has been mentioned. Here is his picture of Wash- ington : " In fancy now beneath the twilight gloom, Come, let me lead thee o'er this modern Rome, Where tribunes rule, where duski Davi bow. And what was Goose Creek once is Tiber now. This famed metropolis, where fancy sees Squares in morasses, obelisks in trees ; Which travelling fools and gazateers adorn With shrines unbuilt and heroes yet unborn ; Tho' naught but wood and . . . they see Where streets should run, and sages ought to be." With the inauguration ceremonies of Presi- dent Madison, March 4, 1809, the capital re- turned from Jeffersonian simplicity to the stateliness and fashion of Washinofton and Adams. Mrs. Madison, the charming hostess of the White House, revived the stately din- ners and formal levees, and a court circle gradually grew up resplendent at balls and assemblies. The War of 181 2 had a special bearing on the history of Washington. It had been in progress almost two years when, early in the summer of 18 14, rumor told of a great British 132 ' Washington armada fitting out at Bermuda, some thought to attack New York, others Bahimore, An- napoHs and Washington. On the night of August 19, 18 14, a courier, dashing at full speed over the sandy roads of Maryland, drew rein for an instant at every little post-town and shouted the warning note ; " To arms ! The British have landed at Bene- dict, and are marching inland. To arms ! " Then at once it was known that the city of Washington was the object of the invasion. The British forces now marching upon the city numbered 51 23. They were some of Welling- ton's veterans, fresh from the fields of France and Spain. Opposed to them and in defence of the city. General Winder had nearly six thousand men. Only nine hundred of these were regular troops. The attempt to resist the invasion resulted in the battle of Bladensburo-, which was fought near the spot which later became famous as duelling-grounds. A brief but brave defence was made, the raw and undrilled American troops being compelled to give way to the disciplined veterans who had fought with Wellington. Washington has had its days of tragedy. ,gflF«i .„JI=ft 134 Washington Two American Presidents have been assassi- nated within the city, and its inhabitants shud- dered at the approach of Southern armies duriui;;- the Civil War. But at no otlier time in the his- tory of the Federal city has there been such a moment of supreme terror as on the night of the 24th of August, 1 8 14, when the British gave to the flames the Capitol, the President's house, the Navy Yard and the Treasure President Madison and his Cabinet had taken refuge in flight ; the frightened citizens were hurrying bewildered into Virginia when, to- wards sunset. General Ross and Admiral Cock- burn drew up their troops on the esplanade east of the Capitol. Thus far the movement had been conducted accordinij to the rioid eti- quette of war, but the spectacle of the Ameri- can capital at their mercy awoke both in officers and men the wanton spirit of revenge. American school-books have perpetuated the unique fable that the British held a mock session in the Hall of the House of Repre- sentatives ; that Cockburn from the Speaker's desk, while the soldiers filled the seats, put the question : " Shall this harbor of Yankee democracy be burned?" and that, when the motion was boisterously carried, gave orders. Washington i35 to apply the torch. The scene is an imagi- nary one ; the tale is a piece of romance. It is the sort of historical fiction that Lamartine delighted to invent to add dramatic interest to events. It is unnecessary to resort to imagination to make a vivid picture of the sacking of Wash- ington. By the glare of the burning Capitol the red-coats marched up Pennsylvania Avenue to the President's house. The Palace, as the Federalists called it, was not palatial. The portico had not been built ; what was to be the garden was a field of rocks and tree stumps ; the interior of the house was crude, and the East Room, since associated with great histori- cal events, had, since the time of Mrs. Adams, been given over to the uses of the laundry. A second fiction connected with the British raid is that they found a great dinner spread on the President's table and in much glee and derision sat down to devour it. That tale, like the fable of the mock session at the Capitol, was given to a London paper by a merry midshipman. At midnight a violent thunder-storm checked the four conflagrations. The next day the British renewed the devastation, adding to the 1 36 Washington &' flames the Departments of State and War, and private buildings. But nature, as if protesting against the outrage, came to the rescue with a cyclone that drove the enemy to seek shelter. Panic seized the combatants. On the Washington side, General Ross, perceiving Americans on the Virginia shore, set fire to the great bridge spanning the Potomac. On the \^ircrinia side, Americans, believinof the British were about to cross, simultaneously applied the torch. WHiile the two sheets of flame rushed together, the British . army left the ruined capital. Sentiment in England was divided over the destruction of Washington. " Willingly," said the London Statesvian, " would we throw a veil of oblivion over the transactions of our buc- caneers at Washington. The Cossacks spared Paris, but we spared not the capital of America." Other British authorities justified the ruin as a reprisal for the burning and destruction of York, the capital of Upper Canada, though that unwarranted act was the work of soldiers acting without authority, and had been gener- ally condemned In America and publicly disa- vowed by General Dearborn, who commanded the expedition. Washington ^Z7 The preparations for rebuilding the city were begun before the smoldering ruins had ceased to glow. The designs of the Capitol and other public buildings were somewhat THE " OCTAGON HOUSE" USED BY PRESIDENT AND MRS. MADISON DURING T. "^ REBUILDING OF THE WHITE HOUSE IN 1814. altered, but the White House, under the su- pervision of Hdban, the original architect, was reared on the old walls — almost a replica of the former mansion. Although the reconstruction was begun immediately, there was a continua- tion of the old difficulties. The question of removing the capital again became an issue, 138 Washington and continually hampered the work of rebuild- ing-. However, the old buildings were slowl)- replaced, new ones were constructed, and the Government was soon comfortably housed. But the city itself developed with woful languor. The few attempts to beautify it failed. By i860, there were but two or three miles of poorly constructed pavements. Most of the streets were worse than country roads. In summer the dust rose in clouds and blinded and choked those who ventured forth, while in winter the mud was so deep that at times the streets were well-nigh impassable. Until 1862 there were no street railways. Charles Dickens, who was a visitor to Wash- ington during its period of struggle and recon- struction, drew this startling picture of the capital : " Take the worst parts of the City Road and Penton- ville, or the straggling outskirts of Paris, where the houses are smallest, preserving all their oddities, but especially the small shops and dwellings, occupied in Pentonville (but not in Washington) by furniture-brokers, keepers of poor eating-houses, and fanciers of birds. Burn the whole down ; build it up again in wood and plaster ; widen it a little ; throw in part of St. John's Wood ; put green blinds outside all the private houses, with a red curtain and a white one in every window ; plough up all GRAND STAIRCASE IN THE HALL OF THE CONGRESSIONAL LIBRARY. 139 I40 Washington the roads ; plant a great deal of coarse turf in every place where it ought not to be ; erect three handsome buildings in stone and marble, anywhere, but the more entirely out of everybody's way the better ; call one the Post Office, one the Patent Office, and one the Treasury ; make it scorching hot in the morning and freezing cold in the afternoon, with an occasional tornado of wind and dust ; leave a brick-field without the bricks in all cen- tral places where a street may naturally be expected ; and that's Washington." As there were few attractions to tempt the wealthy, plain and inexpensive dwellings were mostly in evidence. During the sessions the members of Congress could hardly find suit- able quarters, since the inns and hotels, with few exceptions, were of such a character that they brought forth vilification from those who were compelled to live in them. Boarding- houses were somewhat better. An old direc- tory shows that in 1834 Senators Daniel Webster, John Tyler, John C. Calhoun, Henry Clay ; Representatives John Ouincy Adams, Franklin Pierce, James K. Polk and many other well-known men of the time sought homes with private families or in semi-public boarding-houses. The modern method of num- bering houses was not then used, and we find addresses given as follows: Henry Clay, "at Washington 141 Mrs. Ditty's, C Street near the corner of Four- and-a-half"; Nathaniel Silsbee and Daniel Webster, " Boarding-house of Mrs. Bayliss, opposite Central Market." The Civil War added the final touch to the national significance of the capital. From the straggling city of seventy thousand inhabitants, those stirring times transformed it into a vast military post of two hundred and fifty thousand. In appearance the city resembled an extensive military camp and hospital. Yet when the foe did come the city was in but poor condition to withstand attack. In the summer of 1864, General Jubal Early was sent north to attack Washington, and, if possible, to divert Grant from Richmond. General Lew Wallace was then in command of the Middle Division, which included Washington. Home Guard, crippled soldiers, and Department clerks were mustered in ; but in all there were not more than thirty-five hundred men. General Early had by his own account ten thousand picked veterans, including nine field batteries with forty guns. At Monocacy, thirty miles from Washington, after a brave contest, the Union forces retreated in good order. At night. Early camped within ten miles of the capital ; 142 Washington i5' But Wallace had delayed him long enough to enable Grant to send a part of the Sixth and Nineteenth corps, and Washington was saved. Meanwhile, work on the public buildings went steadily forward. During the war the dome of the Capitol was raised, and the Treas- ury and Patent Office buildings were almost completed. In 1863, the statue of Freedom was placed upon the dome with imposing cer- emony, accompanied by the salutes of guns of the surrounding forts. The enormous military population during the war brought greatly in- creased responsibilities to the city, and a bet- ter realization of its importance to the nation. From i860 to 1870, more noteworthy and sub- stantial improvements were made than had been before undertaken in the whole history of the city, and the population in this single decade increased from seventy thousand to I 20,000. With the return of peace the habitual sloth- fulness returned, and the old do-nothing policy seemed about to be resumed. But there were a few energetic citizens in whom the short period of progressiveness had instilled an un- quenchable desire for a better order of things, M 144 Washington and by their untiring energy they prevented a recurrence of the former stagnation. One man in particular seems to have been inspired with a resistless ambition for the city's salvation. Around this person — Alexander R. Shepherd — the little body of reformers rallied their forces. A territorial form, with a trovernor, lecrisla- ture and delegate to Congress, was created for the District. A Board of Public Works, ap- pointed by the President with the approval of the Senate, was created to undertake the re- modelling of the city. Subsequently this Board became the pivot around which the rest of the municipal machinery revolved. Shep- herd was appointed Governor, and under his guidance the Board immediately began its difficult and thankless task. The changes which the Board wrought in the city were stupendous. The result is Washing- ton as it is known to-day. The enormous ex- pense entailed by the great reconstruction created an opposition which forced Congress to appoint committees of investigation. The extent of the Board's operations are best illus- trated by the enlargement of the District's debt. The debt of the territory, which in ^ ^7 ft? -:; I * w a» ■ ^ I ^ rvi ROTUNDA OF THE CONGRESSIONAL LIBRARY, WASHINGTON. 145. 146 Washington 1 87 1 was but three milHons, had risen in 1875 to twenty milHons, and of this " astounding in- crease only the original loan of four millions was submitted to the vote of the people, and this, at the time it was voted on, was under- stood to include all the main improvements necessary for remodelling the city." Shepherd, whose master mind had directed the whole undertaking, finally left the city. When, a few years later, he returned on a visit from Mexico, his advent was celebrated by the citizens of the new and beautified capital by demonstrations of welcome so sincere and genuine as to atone for the former lack of appreciation, Washington to-day is richer in historic mem- ories than any other city on the continent. To the literary worker and historian it is a boundless treasure-house. Standing on the hills of Anacostia, and musing on the story of Powhatan's vanished capital, one may read in the surrounding spires and domes and monu- ments of the city the eventful story of Anglo- Saxon triumph in the Western Hemisphere. One smiles now at the satire of the poet Moore ; for the morasses have indeed be- come parks, and imposing shrines have been Washington ^47 'i5 built to commemorate heroes that were then unborn. In what was once the wilderness of '• magnificent distances " are the palatial houses in brick and granite of men and women cele- brated in letters, in art and in public life. In the galleries of the Capitol will be found the portraits and memorials of America's illustrious dead. In the State Department is to be seen the faded original of the Declaration of Inde- pendence. The city that Washington founded has be- come one of venerable memories and matchless triumphs. From the " Rome " of Francis Pope the visitor looks down Pennsylvania Avenue, the Via Sacra of the new world, whereon the men most illustrious in the annals of the Republic have walked and ridden to their public offices, and along whose historic thoroughfares the heroes of great wars have enjoyed their tri- umphs. Here Lafayette was received with joyous welcome when, in 1824, he returned to measure the majestic growth of the Republic during the fifty years that had passed since he and Washington were comrades in the fight for freedom. As, standing on the superb terraces on the west front of the Capitol, one views the 148 Washington monument, the sacred hills of Arlington, the Potomac winding towards Alexandria, which Adams predicted would become the continent's metropolis and greatest export city, the impos- ing declivities of old Georgetown, at whose base were once anchored merchant ships from foreign ports, there passes before the mind a vivid pano- rama of the history of the American people. Beauty and majesty have obliterated the infant city of a hundred years ago. The achievements of science have mocked many of the ancient prophecies. The canal, starting at Georgetown, which was to have carried the deliberations of Congress to the Western world, knows no such use, and the ships that were to crowd the Potomac are content to moor at railway ter- mini along the Atlantic coast. But although applied science has confounded the wisdom of a hundred years ago, the hopes and dreams of the founder of the capital have been realized. In 1798, before the Govern- ment moved to the new city, Washington wrote concerning the capital : " A century hence, if this country keeps united, it will produce a city, though not so large as London, yet of a magnitude inferior to few others in Europe." WASHINGTON MU.NUiViLNT. LOOKING ACROSS THE " FLATS." i=;o Washington Had Washington looked down the century and caught the gleam of the gigantic shaft that attests his glory, and the golden dome of the Congressional Library, the most superb tem- ple ever reared to literature, or in an illumined moment beheld the Goddess of Liberty stand- ing between Heaven and earth and symboliz- ing freedom for seventy-five millions of people, he could not have written with loftier faith in the destiny of the Republic. Washington is no longer the city of mag- nificent intentions ; it is Washington the Mag- nificent. RICHMOND ON THE JAMES By WILLIAM WIRT HENRY " And in regions far Such heroes bring ye forth As those from whom we come, And plant our name Under that star Not known to our North." Drayton. ON the nth of April, 1606, a patent was issued by James I. of England to Sir Thomas Gates, Sir George Somers and others for the establishment of a colony in Vir- ginia. The charter prescribed that it was to be managed by a council of thirteen per- sons, under the direction of a council of thirteen in England. On December the 19th of that year, one hundred and nine years after the discovery of North America by Cabot, three small vessels, the Stcsaii Constant, the God Speed and the Discovery, sailed for the New 151 152 Richmond on the James World, bearing- one hundred and twelve pas- sengers and a crew of thirty-nine men. They encountered many perils by sea, hav- ing bad weather and losing their reckoning, but the 26th of April, 1607, brought them to the shores of Chesapeake Bay, and the)' soon entered a noble stream called by the natives the " Powhatan," but renamed by them the James, i.n honor of their King. On the 13th of May, they landed on a spot which seemed suitable for a settlement, and called the place Jamestown. The colony previously planted at Roanoke Island by Sir Walter Raleigh having perished, this was the beginning of the permanent Anglo-Saxon occupation of North America. From it has developed English possession of the continent with free insti- tutions based upon English representative government. In 1 61 9, a General Assembly was held, which was the first legislative body elected by the people to convene this side of the Atlantic. It was an Enarlish acorn a-erminatinor in Amer- ican soil, and from it has sprung the tree of liberty which has filled the continent. Among the colonists w^ho landed at Jamestown, was the celebrated Captain John Smith, who was Richmond on the James 153 destined later to be snatched from the jaws of death by the lovely Indian princess, Pocahon- tas, From the story of his life, told by him- GRAVE OF POWHATAN ON THE JAMES. self, and the Rev. Samuel Purchas in his Pilgrims, we learn that he had already been the hero of many adventures. He had been robbed, had encountered pirates, and had 15+ Richmond on the James been shipwrecked at sea. He had slain three Turks in singrle combat while serving under Sigismundus Bathori, the Prince of Transyl- vania. He had been beloved by the fair Turkish lady, Tragabigzanda, besides having had many other affaires du cauir — notably one with the good lady Calamata of Russia. Nine days after the landing of the colony at Jamestown, and thirteen years before the land- ing of the Pilgrim Fathers at Plymouth, Cap- tain Newport, with Smith and a party of men, ascended the James River, and discovered the site of the city of Richmond. In Smith's True Relation, printed in London in 1608, he says : " The two and twenty day of April [or rather May, 1607] Captain Newport and myselfe with diuers others to the number of twenty-two persons, set forward to discouer the Riuer some fiftie or sixtie miles. . . . In the mid- way, staying to refresh ourselues in a little He foure or fiue savages came vnto vs which described vnto vs the course of the Riuer, and after, in our journey, they often met vs, trading with vs for such provision as wee had, and arriuing at Arsatecke, hee whom wee supposed to bee the Chiefe King of all the rest, moste kindely enter- tained vs, giuing vs a guide to go with vs vp the riuer Powhatan, of which place their Great Emperor taketh his name, where he they honored for King used vs kindlly. Richmond on the James 155 '' But to finish this discouerie, we passed on further, where within an ile [a mile] we were intercepted with great craggy stones in the midst of the river, where the water falleth so rudely and with such violence, as not any boat can possibly passe, and so broad disperseth the streame as there is not past fiue or sixe foote at low water, and to the shore scarce passage with a barge." This was the first view had by Enghshmen of the situation where the city of Richmond was located. In September, 1609, when Smith was presi- dent, he set out to find a more favorable spot for the colony than marshy Jamestown. He sailed again to the Indian village Powhatan, at the falls of the river, and bought of the natives some land near the present site of Richmond, where the landscape presented such charming features that he called the place " None Such." On his way home he was wounded by the explosion of a bag of gun- powder, and the next month he left the colony and sailed for England, leaving only a small settlement to occupy the site he had purchased. In 1645, " Fforte Charles " was built below the falls of the James, but no permanent settle- ment was effected. In 1675, Colonel William Byrd was granted 7351 acres of land beginning 156 Richmond on the James at the mouth of Shockoc's Creek, which joins the river at the fahs, and aij^ain, in 1687, he had a patent of 956 acres on the east side of the creek, extending up and down the hne of the James River. On a part of these two tracts the present city of Richmond was founded some years later by his son, Colonel William Evelyn Byrd, who gives this account in his journal : "Sept. 19th, 1733. When we got home we laid the foundation of two large cities, — One at Schocco's, to be called Richmond, and the other at the Point of Appamattuck River to be nam'd Petersburgh. These Major Mayo offered to lay out into lots without fee or reward. The truth of it is these two ])laces being the uppermost landing of James and Appamattuck Rivers, are naturally intended for Marts where the traffick of the outer inhabitants must Center. Thus we did not build Castles only, but also citys in the air." He also advertised in the Virginia Gazette of April, 1737, "that on the north side of James River, near the uppermost landing and a little below the falls, is lately built by Major Mayo a town called Richmond with streets sixty feet wide in a pleasant and healthy situation, and well supplied with springs of good Avater." The founder of Richmond was one of the COLONEL WILLIAM EVELYN BYRD. FRO VI A PAINTING BY SIR GODFREY KNELLER. 157 15^ Richmond on the James worthiest and most intellectual men in the Colony of Virginia. His portrait, by Sir Godfrey Kneller, shows a face of remarkable beauty, framed in the curls of a flowing peruke of the time of Queen Anne. He was noted as " the Great Virginia wit," and his writings are among the most valuable that have de- scended to us from that era. His library was the largest that had ever been brought over to the New World. A catalofjue of it, in folio, is now in possession of the Franklin Library in Philadelphia. He was the father of the beau- tiful Evelyn Byrd, whose death of a broken heart because her father refused to give his consent to her marriage with her lover — said to have been Lord Peterborough — has furnished a theme for poet and novelist. He was buried at his family estate, Westover, and his tomb- stone, in the old flower garden there, not only gives a history of his life, but tells us also of several of his noble and illustrious friends and their good qualities. Richmond was established as a town by the Assembly of Virginia in 1742. Originally built on seven hills, it has been called the " Modern Rome," and one of Richmond's gifted daugh- ters once wrote : Richmond on the James 159 " O Richmond I Richmond ! Richmond ! Upon thy seven liills Like one of old, we wot of well Thy fame the wide world fills." In 1842, when Dickens visited Richmond, it aheady covered yet another hill, and he wrote of it as " delightfully situated on eight hills overhanging James River, a sparkling stream studded here and there with bright islands, or brawling over broken rocks. There are pretty villas and cheerful houses on its streets, and nature smiles upon the country 'round." The oldest house in Richmond, the "Old Stone House," situated on Main Street, was built by Jacob Ege in 1737, and is now used as a museum filled with relics and curiosities. St. John's Episcopal Church, which was built in I 740, is in a state of excellent preservation, and religious services are held in it as they were in the days before the Revolution. It was built under the superintendence of Richard Randolph of Curls Neck, the son of William Randolph of Turkey Island and Jane Boiling, the great-great-granddaughter of Pocahontas. In its graveyard are many quaint old tomb- stones — the oldest, that of the Rev. Robert i6o Richmond on the James Rose, is dated 1751. The learned and ac- complished George Wythe, one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence, and many other famous sons of Virginia lie buried in the graveyard. The most interesting event in the OLD STONE HOUSE, BUILT IN 1737. history of the Church, and one with which its .name will be forever linked, was the meeting within its walls of the famous Virginia Con- vention of March 20, 1775. A few months after the adjournment of the first Continental Coneress, this convention met to hear a re- port of its proceedings, and to deliberate on the political situation. The bitter hostility Richmond on the James i6i to the patriots on the part of Lord Dun- more made it unsafe for them to meet in WilHamsburg, the capital of the colony, and the importance and sacredness of the cause made it appropriate to meet in the sanctuary of God, to whom they humbly looked for guidance on their sea of troubles. The vestry recognized this, and offered to the con- vention this, the largest building in the town. It was during the session of this convention that Patrick Henry made his famous speech, in which he proclaimed the folly of lono-er ex- pecting peace, and the necessity of arming for immediate war, ending with the words : "Is life so dear, or peace so sweet, as to be pur- chased at the price of chains and slavery ? Forbid it, Almighty God ! I know not what course others may take, but as for me, give me liberty or give me death. " The very spot where the orator stood is pointed out. Some six years later, January 6, 1781, Bene- dict Arnold, the traitor, entered the city at the head of nine hundred British soldiers. That night part of his troops were quartered in the old church, desecrating it as far as they were able. In 1779, the Legislature ordered the removal 1 62 Richmond on the James of the; seat of irovernment from Williamsburi; to Richmond, then only a collection of dis- jointed villages placed amid the ragged ground at the falls of the James. Virginia had been settled largely by sons of country gentlemen, who brought from their far-off homes the love of country life. Her citizens preferred that life, and the title " Countr\- Gentlemen " was the most desired. In consequence there were no large cities in the State. In I 781, the Marquis Chastellux, who served with honor in the French army, thus described the city : " Though Richmond be already an old town and well situated for trade, being built on the spot where the James River begins to be navigable, that is, just below the rapids. It was before the war one of the least con- siderable in Virginia, where they are all in general very small, but the seat of the government being removed from ^^''iIliamsburg it is become a real capital, and is augmenting every day." In 1782, Richmond was incorporated as a city, and three years later the foundations of the Capitol were laid. Especially beautiful in the summer months, when the grass is as green as emerald and the noble trees give grateful shade, is the Capitol Square. Squirrels play i64 Richmond on the James as if at home about the grounds, much to the dehght of the children. The square, with its area of about twelve acres, includes the lot on which the Executive mansion stands, and is supposed to be a part of Nathaniel Bacon's plantation, where his overseer was murdered by the Indians, whose punishment by him, without permission of the Governor, Sir Wil- liam Berkeley, was the beginning of the famous Bacon's rebellion. Of the Capitol itself, Thomas Jefferson wrote : " I was written to in 1785, being then in Paris, by Directors appointed to superintend the building of a Capitol in Richmond, to advise them as to a plan. Thinking it a favorable opportunity of introducing into the State an example of the classic style of antiquity, and the Maison Quarree of Xismes, an ancient Roman Temple, being considered as the most perfect model existing of what may be called Cubic architecture, I applied to M. Clerissault, who had published drawings of the antiquities at Nismes to have me a model of the building made in stucco, only changing the order from the Corinthian to Ionic on account of the difficulty of Corinthian Capitals." The model sent by Jefferson is still preserved, and looks like a miniature of the Capitol with Richmond on the James 165 very slight variations. Jefferson says of it: " Here I am a-azing- whole hours at the Maison o o Ouarree like a lover at his mistress." The corner-stone was laid in 1785, and on October 19, 1789, eight years to the day after the surrender of Lord Cornwallis at Yorktown, the Leeislature convened in it. The Capitol is full of memories of bygone days. Here were debated and adopted the famous resolutions of 1 798-99, drafted by James Madison as the true interpretation of the Federal compact. Here sat the conven- tion of 1829-30, of which Marshall, Madison, Monroe and John Randolph of Roanoke were members, the convention of 185 1, which en- larged the right of suffrage and, ten years later, the body which adopted the Act of Secession. Here, in 1862, met the congress of the Confederate States of America, which sat until April, 1865, when it adjourned — " Notsme die indeed, yet never to meet again." In the rotunda of the Capitol is the most valuable marble in America, Houdon's statue of Washington, modelled from life. Virginia had voted this statue to him May 15, 1784, and Madison penned the inscription which appears on the pedestal : 1 66 Richmond on the James " The (ieneral Assembly of the Commonwealth of \'irginia have caused tliis statue to be erected as a monu- ment of affection and gratitude to George Washington, who uniting to the endowments of the hero, the virtues of the patriot, and exercising both in establishing the liberties of his country, has rendered his name dear to his fellow citizens, and given to the world an immortal example of true glory." Mr. Jefferson, being then in Paris, engaged Houdon to come to Virginia to make the statue, saying of him : "He is without rival- ship, the first statuary of his age, as pr'>of of which he receives orders from every other country for things intended to be capital." It is a tradition that Houdon spent several days at Mount Vernon before he selected the attitude for the statue. One day Washington was summoned to inspect a pair of horses offered for sale. He asked their price, and was told " a thousand dollars." At once he drew himself up, with an expression of indignation at the price, and Houdon, watching him, ex- claimed, " Ah, I 'ave him, I 'ave him ! " and immediately set to work to make the pose immortal. In the Capitol grounds stands Crawford's famous equestrian statue of the great hero. Thomas Crawford, father of F. Marion 1 68 Richmond on the James Crawford, the distinguished novelist of our day, had received an order from the State of Vir- ginia to make this statue of Washington and also to make effigies of Thomas Jefferson and Patrick Henry to stand at its base. He had just completed his work when he was afiflicted with a mortal disease, and when an order came to add the figrures of Mason, Marshall, Nelson and Lewis he was unable to fill it, and the monument was subsequently com- pleted by Randolph Rogers. The statue was unveiled February 22, 1858, the one hundred and twenty-sixth anniversary of Washington's birth, and a proud day it was in the history of Richmond. Henry A. Wise, Governor of the State, presided and delivered an eloquent ad- dress. Senator R. M. T. Hunter was the ora- tor of the occasion, and John R. Thompson and James Barron Hope, who were then the " rose and expectancy of the State," recited poems prepared by them. It is considered one of the best equestrian statues in the world. A fine marble statue of Henry Clay, exe- cuted by Joel T. Hart and erected by the efforts of some patriotic ladies, stands near by. Contemporaries of Mr. Clay pronounced Richmond on the James 169 it lifelike. Virginia claims Mr. Clay for a son, as he was born in Hanover County, and did not move to Kentucky until he reached man- hood. On the Capi- tol grounds is an old building known as the Bell House which, though erected many years previous, is chiefly inter- esting for its as- sociation with the Civil War. The bell had been purchased i n 1 790, when the Directors of Public Buildings were authorized to "fit up a suf- / HENRY CLAY. ticient bell lor the use of the Capitol." Tradition says the ijo Richmond on the James bell rang an alarm at the time of the " Xat Turner " insurrection, but it is consecrated to the trying times of 1861 to 1865 as is no other object connected with the Civil War. When its well-known peal rang out three quick taps and an interval, soldiers and citizens, old men and young, rushed with common Impulse to the rendezvous, with hearts and hands ready for the defence of the city. There is also on the grounds a statue of the great soldier, Thomas J. Jackson, executed by Foley, the celebrated English sculptor, and presented to Virginia by some of his English admirers. Old soldiers say of this, that it is the best likeness extant of their great leader. " Look ! there is Jackson, standing like a stone wall," is inscribed on the pedestal. One of the most interesting sites in the city is that now occupied by the Monumental Church, on Broad Street, on what was for- merly known as Academy Square. Here a certain Chevalier Ouesnay de Beaurepaire erected a large wooden building for an acad- emy of fine arts. He was full of enthusiasm, and visited Paris to present his plan to the French Academy, which body gave their ap- proval, but his scheme failed and the building Richmond on the James 171 was turned into a theatre. Here assembled in 1 788 a brilHant coterie of statesmen — Mar- shall, Madison, Mason, Monroe, Randolph, Henry, Lee, Wythe, Pendleton and others, who met to discuss and finally ratify the Constitution of the United States as framed in Philadelphia. Twenty-three years afterwards on a fatal December eveningr it was the scene of a dread- ful disaster, when seventy-two persons, includ- ing the Governor of the State, who were attending a performance at the theatre, per- ished in the flames which destroyed the build- ing. The portico of the church covers the tombs and charred remains of most of the vic- tims of the fire, and a monument bears their names. The house of Chief Justice Marshall stands on the street named in his honor. It was built in 1795, and is as simple and unpreten- tious as was its distinofuished owner. Still in the possession of his descendants, the house has not been remodelled and but few changes have been made inside. By some mischance, in the absence of Judge Marshall, the house was built rear side front. The handsome hall and staircase, with their carved balusters of 172 Richmond on the James cherry, are at the back, opening towards the garden, the dining-room looks out on Marshall Street, and the entrance for visitors is by a small door on the side street. Here lived THE MARSHALL HOUSE, RICHMOND, VIRGINIA. and loved, in the simple, good old fashion, the great lawyer and his lovely wife. Mar)- Willis Ambler. Their married life was a peaceful idyl lasting forty-two years. Folded in his will was a touching tribute to his wife, ending : Richmond on the James i jz " She became at sixteen a most devoted wife. All my faults, and they were too many, could never weaken this sentiment. It formed a part of her existence. Her judgment was so sound and so deep that I often relied upon it in situations of some perplexity. I do not recol- lect once to have regretted the adoption of her opinion. I have sometimes regretted its rejection." Both Washington and Lafayette visited the city in 1784, and were welcomed by the citi- zens and legislature then in session, who ex- pressed their appreciation of the great services they had rendered the country. In response to an address made upon the occasion of this visit, Washington said : " That this growing city may enjoy the benefits which are to be de- rived from liberty, independence and peace — that it may improve such of its advantages as a bountiful nature has bestowed, and that it may soon be ranked first in the Union for population, commerce and wealth, is my sin- cere and fervent wish." Lafayette visited Richmond again in 1824. Houdon had made a bust of him, which Virgrinia crave to France, and a copy of which she kept in the rotunda of the Capitol. By chance, just before his visit, the nose was broken off, and there was great concern lest he reach the city before it 174 Richmond on the James could be restored. Happily, howev^er, the nose was finished in time. The Swan tavern, still preserved on Broad Street, was an ancient place of entertainment kept by Major Moss, who was said to be " full of good feeding, breeding and fellowship." His home was the Lincoln's Inn or Doctors' Commons of Richmond, for there assembled in term times the non-resident judges and law- yers. Though of unpretending exterior, the Swan was of highest repute for good fare, good wine and good company. An annex to the Swan was the house where Aaron Burr was kept prisoner during his trial for treason in 1807, the Federal Court having then no prison under its control. Chief Justice Mar- shall presided at the trial, and the Court sat in the Hall of Delegates in the Capitol. Edgar Allan Poe spent many of his boyhood days in Richmond, with John Allan, a rich merchant of Scotch descent who adopted him. Until recently, the fine old residence of Mr. Allan was standing on Fifth Street, and near by was the residence of William Wirt, who loved the place and thus writes of it : " I never met with such an assembhage of striking and interesting objects as here, the town dispersed over hills Richmond on the James 1 75 of various shai)es, the river descending from west to east, and obstructed by a multitude of small islands, clumps of trees and myriads of rocks— the same river, at the lower end of the town, bending at right angles to the south and winding many miles in that direction, its pol- ished surface caught here and there by the eye, but more frequently covered from the view by trees, among which white sails exhibit a curious and interesting spectacle ; then again, on the opposite side, Manchester, built on a hill, which, sloping quickly to the river, opens the whole town to view, interspersed with flourishing poplars and surrounded to a great distance by green plains and stately Avoods, — all these objects falling at once under the eye constitute by far the most finely varied and most ani- mated landscape I have ever seen." The Valentine Museum, which was given to the city by one of its most valued citizens, the late Mann S. Valentine, contains archaeological specimens numbering more than one hundred thousand, also an art collection and a number of original works donated by his brother, Edward V. Valentine, Virginia's talented sculptor. A short walk brlnors you to the studio of this artist, where, among many beautiful and in- teresting figures, the chief interest centres in the model for the recumbent statue of General Robert E. Lee, the marble of which is in the annex to the Episcopal Church in Lexington. 176 Richmond on the James This statue has won for Valentine the admira- tion and love of the people of the South. At once the capital and the citadel of the Confederacy, Richmond was the objective point of assault in the Civil War, and the greatest generalship on both sides was dis- played in its attack and its defence. From May, 1862, to April, 1865, it may be said to have been in a state of siege, holding out steadily and grandly against great odds. During this period it is said that fifteen pitched battles and more than twenty skirmishes were fought in the effort to capture it. When its defenders were finally obliged to leave the city to its fate, they set on fire the warehouses to prevent the capture of the tobacco which they contained, burned the bridges behind them as the last soldier crossed the river, and left the business portion smoldering in flames — a barren trophy to the victors. It is in consequence of this that so few of the typical old buildings remain stand- ing, for the flames leaped from house to house and destroyed many old landmarks. The city was not long in rising from its ashes and taking on new life, and there could be no greater con- trast than that between the city of 1865 and the Richmond of to-day. Nevertheless it will 17^ Richmond on the James always be remembered as the capital of the Lost Cause, and, as such, it will be invested with a pathetic interest. Its suburbs, attrac- tive as they are from their natural beauty, de- rive their chief interest from havintj^ been the scenes of the conflict. In many places there remain the earthworks thrown up for the de- fence of the city, and every avenue out of the city for miles around leads to battlefields. Many monuments mark the love and venera- tion of the people for the heroes of the war. Foremost of these is the equestrian statue of General Robert E. Lee by Mercie, a F'rench sculptor. It represents the great general riding slowly down the line, mounted on " Traveller," his well-known war-horse. It is located in Lee Circle, one of the most beautiful parts of the city. A monument, the corner-stone of which has already been laid, will be erected to the memory of Jefferson Davis, President of the Confederate States. His residence while occupying that office is a building imposing in appearance, with grounds beautifully laid out, and adorned with fountains and flowers. It is known as the " White House of the Con- federacy," and is kept in admirable condition by a band of devoted women, the Confederate r.ri;:^ zsii/m^ ^ m. tJL_. MONUMENT TO GENERAL ROBERT E. LEE, RICHMOND. 179 i8o Richmond on the James Literary Memorial Society. The residence occupied by General Lee and his family is in the care of the Virginia Historical Society, and contains the extensive library of books, manuscripts and publications of that society. THE WHITE HOUSE OF THE CONFEDERACY, RICHMOND. A favorite drive is to Hollywood, silent city of the dead, which nature and art have united to beautify. Here sleep many of Virginia's famous men ; among them, Monroe and Tyler, Presidents of the United States, Jefferson Davis, President of the Confederacy, John R. Thompson, the poet, John Randolph, caustic Richmond on the James i8r Master of Roanoke, and Matthew F. Maury, " Pathfinder of the Seas." A beautiful monu- ment of granite, pyramidal in form, and covered with Virginia creeper and ivy, marks the graves of twelve hun- dred Confederate dead. The Govern- ment has lately finished a fine road, leading from Chimborazo Park to the Na- tional Cemetery, where lie buried 6547 of the Fed- eral soldiers who fell in the at- tempts to capture the city. Nature has done much for the city. The climate is pleasant and health- ful ; trees shade and flowers beautify the resi- dences. The river glistens as it flows around wooded islands and rushes toward the sea over craggy rocks. Numerous lines of travel centre MONUMENT OVER CONFEDERATE DEAD AT HOLLYWOOD. 1 82 Richmond on the James in its midst and there is a growing spirit of en- terprise among its citizens. The water-power is very fine, and besides being utiHzed for many manufactories, is about to be used for the ofener- ation of electricity on a large scale. Richmond claims the honor of bein^f amonc^ the first, if not the very first city, to be lighted with gas. A man named Henfrey visited the city earl\- in the present century, and induced some of the prominent citizens to witness experiments made by him in which he poured fiame instead of steam from the spout of a tea-kettle. Money was raised by subscription and a lighthouse was built. On a tower forty feet high was a large lantern with many jets, and gas was gen- erated in the basement and conducted by a pipe to the burners. Not, however, until many years after were the gas-works erected, and though Henfrey's light was short-lived, his tower remained a monument of the enterprise of the citizens. The people of Richmond are refined and hospitable. "It is the merriest place and the most picturesque, I have seen in America," wrote Thackeray. The city is filled with the echoes of the past. She cherishes tender memories of brave men Richmond on the James 183 and gracious women. Rich in historic interest, progressive in her industries and in education, Richmond easily takes the lead in the State. Perhaps it is not too much to say that her great mental activity to-day, and her rapid ad- vancement of late years in material concerns, gives her a position by no means insignificant among the cities of America, a fitting capital of the "Mother of States and of statesmen." WILLIAMSBURG THE ANCIENT CAPITAL By LYON G. TYLER WILLIAMSBURG is situated on the famous Peninsula of Virginia, between the James and York rivers. On this Peninsula have occurred some of the most important events in history. One thing alone entitles it to pre-eminence in American history. At Jamestown, seven miles distant from Williamsburg, was established the first per- manent English settlement on the North American continent. There at Jamestown English settlers planted English institutions, had the first jury trial, and summoned the first assembly of the people. There, too, was the first enunciation on this continent of the mem- orable principle that taxes must not be im- posed except with consent of the people in their representative assembly. All subsequent 185 1 86 Williamsburg English colonization in America had its chief inspiration in the successful upbuilding of the OLD POWDER-HORN. settlement at Jamestown. The Peninsula is in truth "the cradle of the Union." But the Peninsula has also its Vorktown, Williamsburg 187 thirteen miles distant from Williamsburg, This place, which once had a very great trade with Glasgow and London, but which was never more than a village of a few hundred inhabitants, may, nevertheless, claim to be the beginning and ending of Colonial resistance. Towering on the river bank is the beautiful monument, erected in 1881, which tells that there Lord Cornwallis surrendered in 1781 the British power in America to George Washing- ton, Commander-in-Chief of the American armies. But another monument might stand in close proximity, with this inscription, that there the first meeting of the people of Vir- ginia was held in 1635 under the leadership of Nicholas Martian, an ancestor of Washineton, to protest against the tyranny of the Governor, Sir John Harvey, who was shortly after de- posed and sent a prisoner to England in the custody of two members of the Assembh'. Nor, in referring to this neighborhood, must I omit mention of Hampton at the extreme end of the Peninsula, which is the oldest town in English America, which boasts the oldest free school, and which, twice a victim to the flames of war, gave its name to the great landlocked haven where the JMcri'iniac 1 88 Williamsburg revolutionized naval warfare by Its victory oyer the Federal wooden battle-ships in 1862. Finally, six miles from Hampton is New- port News, where the first cotton was planted in America, and where there has suddenly sprung up a rushing, driving city, tremulous with the hopes of the future, and already real- izing the dream of its first settlers, who relied on the magnificent opportunities which its situation at the conjunction of the James River with Hampton Roads afforded. The Penin- sula has been traversed by British, French, and American armies, and in our own times is memorable as the scene of the tremendous struggle between the opposing armies of the Northern and Southern States, under the lead of McClellan and Johnston — a struggle sus- tained on both sides with conspicuous bravery and endurance, and culminating in the battles about Richmond in 1862, Until 1630, the settlements of the English in Viro-inia were confined to the Accomac Pe- ninsula, on the other side of Chesapeake Bay, and to the valley of the James. In that year the Governor and Council determined to make a settlement in the Indian district of Chiski- ack in the neighborhood of Yorktown. Soon igo Williamsburg after one of the leading men, Dr. John Pott, from Harop, in Yorkshire, England, observed the advantaofes of a location on the ridcre be- tween Jamestown and Chiskiack, obtained a patertt for a plantation there, and called it *' Harop." The authorities endorsed his judg- ment and in 1632 sent settlers thither for the purpose of establishing a town upon the spot. This was the beginning of Williamsburg, which was called at first the " Middle Planta- tion," because of its location midway between the York and the James. The Middle Plantation, though for many years a small village, was from the first a strategic point of much value. Two deep creeks, with wide morasses, penetrate to the spot from the James and York respectively, so that no hostile force can proceed up or down the Peninsula without passing through the place. The first settlement was walled in with palisades, and the corn-fields lay on the west of these. In the war with Opechancanough in 1644, the place was commanded by Captain Robert Hisj^orinson,^ a soldier of credit and 'The tombstone of his daughter, Lucy Burwell, wife of Hon. Lewis Burwell, describes him as "the valiant Capt. Robert Iligginson, one of the first commanders that subdued the country of N'irginia from the power of the heathen." Williamsburg 191 renown. When Bacon in 1676 drove Sir Wil- liam Berkeley from Jamestown, here at Mid- dle Plantation, just a hundred years before the American Revolution, the former, calling him- self " General by consent of the People," held his famous parliament of the leading men of the Colony, who published those papers which sound so much like the inspiring literature of the Revolution.^ In preparing an oath to be administered to the people, the three articles proposed were read by James Minge, Clerk of the House of Burgesses : First, that they should aid Gen- eral Bacon in the Indian war ; second, that they would oppose Sir William Berkeley's en- deavor to hinder the same ; third, that they ' One of these papers, styled " Nathaniel IJacon, Esq., his Mani- festo concerning the present troubles in Virginia," has words which ring out very much like the celebrated language of Patrick Henry — "If this be treas6n, make the most of it." Bacon said: "If virtue be a sin, if piety be guilt, if all the principles of morality and goodness be perverted, we must confess that those who are now called ' Rebels,' may be in danger of this high imputation ; but if there be, as sure there is, a just God to appeal to, if to plead the cause of the oppressed, if sincerely to aim at his Majesty's honor and the public good without any reservation or by-interest, if to stand in the gap after so much blood of our dear brethren bought and sold, if after the loss of a great jiart of his Majesty's Colony deserted and dispeopled, freely with our lives and estates to endeavor to save the remainder — be treason, God Almighty judge and let the guilty die." 192 Williamsburg luonld oppose any power sent out fj'oni Eng- land, till temns were agreed to. The overweening confidence of the people of Virginia in themselves was shown in the re- mark of Bacon that " one Virginian was equal to four red-coats." Middle Plantation, how- ever, witnessed a sad sight some months later. The hero of the people had succumbed to dis- ease, and Sir William Berkeley was again in power. Among those who supported Bacon with their counsel and sympathy, though not with arms, was William Drummond, first Gov- ernor of North Carolina, and here at Middle Plantation he expiated his offence on the gal- lows. The circumstances surrounding the exe- cution were unusually affecting. Tried by a drumhead court-martial, he was condemned, stripped, the ring torn from his finger, sen- tenced at one o'clock and hanged at four. Berkeley, however, did not long exult in his power, for the British Government recalled him to England, where he soon died, Jamestown with all the public buildings had been destroyed during the course of the war. The suggestion was now offered to make Mid- dle Plantation the capital, but was not adopted^ and Jamestown was again restored. 1 ,4>r'"-.. ,'>ji li U ' *w^'?i;nriTAA.; >. SEAL OF CHARLESTON!. SAVANNAH NEVER LAST AND OFTEN FIRST Bv PLEASANT ALEXANDER STOVALL nPHE city of Savannah is now a centre of ^ railroad and steamship Hnes. It has the heaviest commerce of all the Atlantic ports south of Baltimore. It is the largest naval stores market in the world, and its cotton and lumber receipts are very considerable. But in spite of its commercial primacy Savannah preserves a distinct flavor of the olden time. On the shores of the Savannah River, where the British ships were burned in the Revolution, a railroad system is cuttintr slips and building piers, spending a million dollars in terminal facilities. The hieh bluff where the early colonists planted their crane in 1732 to move goods from the ships to the river bank is now walled in stone, and the strand is gridironed with steel rails. The 293 294 Savannah powder magazine near " the Old Fort," after- wards seized by the patriots of the Revolution, is the site of flourishing foundries. The fila- ture where early colonists were taught to spin silk has been dismantled, and long rows of brick tenements front upon the sandy streets. The tall pines under which Oglethorpe pitched his tents survived the shock of war, and succumbed only to the sweeping storms in 1800. To-day this site is paved with brick and Belgian block, and is the centre of the Bay, where cotton and wholesale men do conere- gate. " The publick oven " on Congress Street stood opposite Tondee's tavern, where the first liberty pole was elevated b)- the patriots, and where a tablet has been placed in the wall of a thriving grocery store to mark the birth of newer freedom. " Fort Halifax," the breastworks of the " Liberty Boys," is now covered by the wharves and warehouses of the Ocean Steam- ship Company, the busiest spot in all Georgia. Spring Hill redoubt, where Pulaski died, is lined by the brick walls of the Georgia Central Railway. The executive mansion of Sir James Wright, the last royal Governor, stood where the United States has just finished its mar- ble post office, perhaps the handsomest public THE POST OFFICE. 295 296 Savannah building- in the country, with the exception of the Congressional Library. In spite of all these changes, Savannah has followed the original lines laid down by Ogle- thorpe. The lots are still sixty by ninety feet, flanked front and rear by open streets. The public squares which marked the city at con- venient distances, used by the early settlers as camp-grounds and corrals in cases of military alarm, are to-day verdant and fresh with bc^ds of flowers and spraying fountains, and dotted by historic monuments. " The tint of antiqui- ty " still rests upon its walls. Now and then the white mulberry, where the silkworm fed in the eighteenth century, crops out and shows its familiar leaves along the streets, and the house of General Lachlan Mcintosh, where the Legislature met in 1 782, on South Broad Street, still stands, preserving many of its Colonial lines. There was a time when Sunbury, the cradle of that splendid secession of 1776, was a port of entry, and the Altamaha was looked upon as a rival of the Savannah. Now the forts of Sunbury are overgrown, and the place is sel- dom heard of save once a year, when one of "the Critter companies" of the neighborhood Savannah 297 repairs to the historic spot and holds its annual target contest and barbecue. Frederica was a flourishing settlement on South Newport River, but after the Spanish War of i 742 sank into decay. Ebenezer, on the Savannah, was the HOUSE WHERE THE COLONIAL LEGISLATURE ASSEMBLED IN 1782. home of the thrifty Salzburgers, who gave a distinct stamp to the Georgia colony, but Ebe- nezer did not long survive the shock of the Revolution, when the British scandalized these primitive people by quartering their horses in the old brick church, which stands to- day. Only Savannah, of all these early settle- ments, remains, and when one walks through 298 Savannah its beautiful streets and Colonial parks, even now he can easily recall the conditions of that February morning in 1732, when "the odor of the jessamine mingled with the balm of the pine," and the palmetto and magnolia threw their shade across the sandy bluff. Hon. P. W. Meldrim, Mayor of Savannah, in a tribute to his city in a recent address, called attention to the fact that the very name of Savannah's streets, " State," " Congress," ■'President," are full of patriotic suggestions, telling the story of the Revolutionary struggle. Other avenues bear the historic names of Montgomery, Perry, and McDonough, while the wards have been labeled Washington, Warren, Franklin and Greene. " Every spot is hallowed. Where the Vernon River flows by Beaulieu, the dashing D'Estaing landed to make his attack with the allied forces of Savannah. Hard by is Bethesda, 'House of Mercy,' where Jew, Protestant and Roman Catholic united in founding Georgia's noblest charity. There it was that Wesley sang his inspired songs and -Whitefield with his eloquence thrilled the world. On the river is the grove where General Greene lived and died, and Whitney wrought from his fertile brain the wonderful invention which revolutionized com- merce. Near at hand, almost sunk into oblivion, is the spring made historic by the daring of Jasper and New- ton. There stands Savannah's pride, her Academy of Savannah 299 Arts and Science. Over there is the home where Wash- ington was entertained, and across the street are the guns which he captured at Yorktown. Here, at our very feet, Casimir Pulaski fell, charging at the head of his legion, while Jasper, rescuing the colors, yielded up his gallant life." HEADQUARTERS OF WASHINGTON DURING A VISIT TO SAVANNAH. The real romance of history is the settlement of the colony of Georgia. Two centuries ago the fertile lands extending from the Savannah to the Altamaha had attracted the attention of pioneers and public men. Sir Robert Mont- gomery had his eye upon this favored tract, as yet unsettled, and described it as "an amiable 300 Savannah land lying along the same parallel with Pales- tine." But it \\ reserved for the first soldier and gentleman of his day to found the new colony and perfect a noble benefaction. Had England exercised the same care over the other colonies as over Georgia, it is possible that the War of the Revolution might have been postponed indefinitely. It is worthy of note that while Viro-inia and the New E norland colonies were settled by exiles who drifted to the barren shores of Jamestown and Plymouth to escape religious and civil persecution, the Georgia colonists sailed the seas in the g-ood ship Aim under the fostering care of the mother country, piloted by statesmen and noblemen, and sought the smiling Savannahs with all the forms of royal patronage. These people, released from debtors' prisons and freed from pecuniary obligations, cleared by a single act of royal clemency from bankruptcy, departed for Georgia with ships supplied from the coffers of nobility, while the spiritual wel- fare of the people was nurtured by the clergy- men of the Established Church. It was a lofty benefaction, and when these hitherto unfortu- nate men felt their fetters fall, and knew that no bailiff awaited them in Savannah, it was no Savannah 301 wonder that, on the morning of the 2d of February, 1733, they gave thanks "for the safe conduct of the colony to its appointed destination." The foundation of the colony was laid along the lines of fraternity. The Carolinians met them at the threshold, and gave them refresh- ment and substantial aid in laying out their city. The principal streets. Bull, Whitaker, Drayton, St. Julian, and Bryan, were named for prominent Carolina farmers who crossed the river with their servants and helped the Georgians start life in the new world. The fact that Carolina realized that she was build- ing an outpost to protect her against the Indians and Spanish does not detract from the cheerfulness of this assistance. The early days of the enterprise were almost Arcadian. Sir Robert Montgomery, who desired to erect an ideal commonwealth upon this spot and call it "the Margravate of Azalia," could have conceived no more Utopian plan than that upon which the colony actually commenced to grow. Land was divided into lots for each freeholder under a strict agrarian law. The tracts were entailed, preventing the es- trangement of his holdings by an improvident 302 Savannah man. There was no chance for the rich to monopoHze the country. The landshark was unknown. Government bounty was prompt and Hberal in encouraging silk culture, and the seal of the colony contains the altruistic motto, descriptive of the unselfish product of the silkworm, Non sibi, sed aliis. The very land which Hernando De Soto and his rapa- cious Spaniards had just ravished in their search for gold was now claimed by these Christian socialists, who started the first work of " benevolent assimilation " on this continent. Eight years after the colony had been founded, a visitor to Savannah described the progress made in a very clear way. Savannah was then a mile and a quarter in circumfer- ence, situated upon a steep bluff forty-five feet above the river. The houses were built of wood, Mr. Oglethorpe's being no finer than those of forty other freeholders. Residences were good distances apart. To-day, Savannah is one of the most closely constructed cities in the United States. Few houses have gardens, and some of the streets present long rows of tenements in maddening monotony. The squares designed by Oglethorpe for market- places and assembly grounds are now good Savannah 303 breathing-spots, which serve in a measure to make up for the lack of private gardens. On one of these squares stands the monument to General Na- thanael Greene, '~ of Rhode I si- *,< and, who, ac- cording to the historian, shar- ed with Wash- ington the grat- itude of the patriots of the R e vo lu t i o n. There are also shafts to the memory of Ser- geant William Jasper and Count Pulaski, who fell, mar- tyrs in the siege of Savannah, in 1779. The cor- ner-stones of these monuments were laid by no less a person than the Marquis de Lafayette. At the time of Mr. Francis Moore's report THE JASPER MONUMENT. 304 Savannah there was a guardhouse along the river where nineteen or twenty cannon were mounted, and continual watch was kept by the freeholders. No lawyers were allowed to plead for hire ; no attorneys were licensed to make money; but, as in old times in England, every man pleaded his own case. Where an orphan was interested, or one could not speak for himself, there were persons " of the best substance in town " ap- pointed by the trustees to defend the helpless, and that without fee or reward. Silk culture was to be the principal industry of the young colony. Italians were brought over from Piedmont to feed the worms and wind the silk. Liberal bounty was given to encouraee the Geororians. So intent were the authorities upon this interest that they neg- lected the cultivation of cotton, rice, indigo and more satisfactory crops. The old filature was designed as a sort of normal school for in- struction in this art. This shed was built of rough boards, thirty-six feet long and twenty feet wide, and had a loft, upon the flooring of which the green cocoons were spread. Fi- nally, the trustees, desiring to push this indus- try, purchased the silk-balls from the growers and wound them at their own expense. But Savannah 305 all this outlay was for nothing. The Gov- ernment spent /1500 in machines, salaries, bounties and filatures, and raised scarcely one thousand pounds of silk, and yet we are told that England expected the experiment to real- ize five hundred thousand pounds and to give employment to forty thousand people. To secure a high class of skilful, self-reliant colo- nists, the trustees had barred out slavery and rum. But the colony projected upon such lofty planes for some reason did not prosper. The people clamored for slaves to cultivate the rice-fields, and for the West Indian traffic in sugar and rum to build up their foreign trade. They fought the restricted land ten- ures ; in fine, they wanted to become plain, ev- ery-day colonists, like the Carolinians and Virginians. They had been reinforced by the sturdy Salzsburgers, the canny Scots, the pious Moravians, and the thrifty Hebrews, but still the humanitarian principles of the charter did not insure them a thriving existence. If silk culture failed, it is not a little remark- able that in the ranks of this same people, one hundred years later, an invention was perfected which gave rise to a new empire and enthroned as king the best fibre of the field. The filature 3o6 Savannah on St. Julian Street lost its distinctive charac- ter, and became an assembly hall for the town meeting and the militia muster ; but upon the Savannah River, a few miles above the cit)-, Eli Whitney, the shrewd Connecticut con- triver, worked out the secret saw^s of the cot- ton-fjin, and made Georcria and the whole South opulent and powerful. The Piedmont- ese still spin their silk under their own trees at home ; but ten million bales of cotton annually whiten in the suns and frosts, and to-day more than one million bales each year are exported from Savannah alone. So two New England heroes, Nathanael Greene and Eli Whitney, aided in protecting the people of Georgia from a foreign foe and in building up their com- mercial supremacy. No sketch of colonial Georgia is adequate which omits the name of Tomochichi. This aged Creek was over ninety years old wdien he welcomed Oglethorpe to his demesne. The loyalty of the venerable mico to his white friends never faltered. He hailed them wnth all the grace and amity of Montezuma, and guarded them against attacks from the tribes of the interior. In his youth a great warrior, Tomochichi in the evening of his life was noted Savannah 507 for his wit, perception and generosity. When he died, the colonists buried him with mihtary honors in the pubhc square. Oglethorpe or- dered a pyramid of stones to be erected over his grave as a testimony of gratitude. It was only during the last year that the Georgia So- THE BURIAL PLACE OF TOMOCHICHL ciety of Colonial Dames of America caused a oranite boulder, rouo-h-hewn from a Geora;ia quarry, to be placed in the square where his remains are supposed to lie, commemorating his noble character and heroic virtues. Hon. Walter G. Carlton, in speaking of the history of this city, exclaimed : " Beyond the clouds of furnace smoke and back of 3o8 Savannah piers of cotton bales arise the visions of old Savannah. What glories cluster about her honored name ! From out her past appears the noble form of him who from the brilliant old world light and the gay splendor of the English Court sought these untried shores, an exile in fair mercy's sake, and lent to the struggle of his fellow- men the strength of that genius which sped his fame through all the fields of Europe ; and with him through the shadows of that far-off time comes a dusky figure, a Christian who has never heard of God, a gentleman into whose guiltless life had never come the influence of court or fashion ; brave with a conscience of honest aim ; kindly with the innate tendency of a noble nature ; regal in that charity which loves to give ; a hero to whose virtues no tablet speaks ; a Georgian in whose memory no marble shaft lifts up its polished line ; forgotten of those he served ; asleep in his nameless grave ; but blessed be the soil which has mingled with Tomochichi's dust, the first of the great Savannahians ! " On the original spot where the colonists es- tablished a house of worship stands to-day the beautiful and classic proportions of Christ Church. Here Wesley preached and White- field exhorted, — the most gifted and erratic characters in the early settlement of Georgia. Wesley came to the Georgia shores with a fervor amounting almost to religious mysti- cism. He thought his mission was to Christ- ianize the Indians. No priest from Spain ever carried the Cross among the Aztecs Savannah ;o9 and Incas of Mexico and Peru with more zeal than the sanguine Wesley. His career in Georgia was checkered and unfruitful. A man of great ability and undoubted piety, he suspended his missionary work among the Indians because he could not learn the CHRIST CHURCH. language and never understood their tempera- ment. His ministry among the whites was marked by a severity which made him unpopu- lar. He seems to have been a martinet in the pulpit, — as Colonel Jones calls him, " a censor mortim in the community." He became em- broiled with his parishioners and left Savannah 3IO Savannah between the suns. And yet Bishop Chandler of Georgia probably spoke the words of truth from the pulpit of Wesley Monumental Church in Savannah, in November, 1899, when he said that " no Qfi'ander man ever walked these his- toric streets than John Wesley." ■'if OAKS AT BETHESDA ORPHANAGE, UNDER WHICH WHITEFIELO PREACHED. George Whitefield was a preacher of such talent that Chesterfield said he had never lis- tened to so eloquent a man. Benjamin Frank- lin regfarded him as a model of loofic and power. This good Oxford graduate was actu- ated, like Oglethorpe, by the broadest benevo- Savannah 311 lence when he estabhshed an orphan home at Bethesda ; but his zeal outran his slender re- sources. He incurred heavy debts, misman- aged his laudable enterprise until his spirit gave way under the discouraging situation. He died in Newbury port, Massachusetts, while he was soliciting aid for his cherished project. Whitefield desired to broaden the lines of his Bethesda work, and to found a college for the Province of Georgia. Had the colony given its revenues to such a plan as the people of Massachusetts gave to the support of Harvard, Georofia mig^ht have founded a ffreat educa- tional institution fifty years before Jefferson started his work at Monticello, and a full cen- tury before Governor Milledge established Franklin College in this State. After twenty years, Georgia ceased to be a province under the trustees, and became a col- ony under the King. As originally projected, the enterprise was expensive. The great Ogle- thorpe returned to England and spent his old age in peace. The trustees surrendered their charter, but the old country had been good to the people. Ties with the motherland were hard to break. This accounted for the fact that Georgia, the youngest of the thirteen, was the 12 Savannah last to sever her relations with England and join in the Revolutionary movement. Her most prominent men, James Habersham and Noble Jones, through their influence with the Royalists and the popu- lar Governor, Sir James Wright, held the people down at least to a show of allegiance to the Brit- ish Crown. "It excites small wonder," writes Col. Charles C. Jones, "that many of the wealthiest GREAT SEAL OF GEORGIA IN ^j^^} „-,Q^t influential citi- COLONIAL DAYS. zens of Georgia should have tenaciously clung to the fortunes of the Crown, and sincerely deprecated all ideas of separation. Of all the American colonies, this province had subsisted most generously upon royal bounty, and had been the recipient of favors far beyond those ex- tended to sister States." But if the old families were still faithful to England, there was one spot where Republicanism was aflame. The parish of St. John had been settled by New England people who had moved first to South Carolina and then to Dorchester and Sunbury Savannah 3 i 3 in Georgia. They were Puritans with no sym- pathy for the Established Church or for the divine right of kings. They loved liberty, and hated royalty. They were brave, resolute and anxious to form a league against English oppression. Led by Dr. Lyman Hall, a sturdy rice planter and prominent physician of Sun- bury, they responded with alacrity to the call from Boston. He went to the Continental Con- gress in Philadelphia, May 13, 1775, and was admitted to a seat as a delegate, not from the colony, but from the parish of St. John. Un- til Georgia was fully represented Dr. Hall de- clined to vote upon questions which were to be decided by the colonies. He, however, partici- pated in the debates, and predicted that the ex- ample shown by his parish would soon be followed. A native of Connecticut, Dr. Hall was a member of the Midway Congregation, where many patriots worshipped liberty as a part of their religion. The rebel spirit of St. John, in advance of the other parishes, re- ceived special recognition when the Legisla- ture afterwards conferred the name " Liberty County " upon this section, where dwelt the descendants of New England people and the Puritan independent sect. 14 Savannah Dr. Hall's prediction that the example of St. John's would soon be followed, was rapidly fulfilled. Events moved beyond the control of the old Royalists. The elder Jones and the knightly Habersham about tliis time passed OLD FORT, WHERE POWDER MAGAZINE WAS SEIZED IN 1775. away, and their impetuous young sons had al- ready made vigorous progress in the gathering struggle for independence. The first liberty pole was elevated in Savannah, June 5, 1775. The loyal men were even then celebrating the King's birthday ; but " the Liberty Boys " spiked the cannon which were ready to be fired on this royal anniversary, and rolled the Savannah 315 dismantled guns to the bottom of the bluff. iVbout this time the powder magazine in the eastern part of the city was seized and some of the ammunition shipped to Boston, where it was used at the battle of Bunker Hill. In June, 1776, Major Joseph Habersham, acting under the authority of the Council of Safety, proceeded to the residence of the chief magis- trate, General Wright. He passed the senti- nel at the door, and advancing to the Governor placed his hand upon his shoulder and said, " Sir James, you are my prisoner." Georgia now plunged boldly into the Revolution. Her sufferings and struggles, her prolonged captiv- ity and final issuance from British occupation in July, 1782, are familiar chapters of Revolu- tionary history. It is entirely creditable to James Edward Oglethorpe that he should have refused to take control of the British armies against the Amer- ican people. The great soldier, who had fought under Prince Eugene of Savoy and John of Argyle, declined to draw his sword to strike down the young colonies he had done so much to build up. If England was his mother, Georgia he considered his offspring. He had founded it and protected it, and from the 3i6 Savannah ramparts of Frederica had beaten back the in- vadino: Spaniards at " Bloody Marsh." He had sought no reward. The highest phil- anthropy brought him to these shores to share the lot of the emigrant. The friend of Hannah More, the com- panion of Pope, the patron of S o t h e r n, Dr. Johnson wished to write his life, a n d Ed m u n d Burke regarded him as the most extraordi- nary person of whom he had ever read. There is no specific monument to Oglethorpe in Georgia. Why should there be ? A tablet in Cranham Church in England proclaims his excellence ; but here, in the language of Chas. C. Jones, " The Savannah repeats to the Alta- maha the stories of his virtues and his valor." Savannah during the Revolution recalls a story of blood and suffering. If her people GINER/U. OGLETHORPE. Savannah OW delayed in severing the bonds which united them to the mother country, they struck promptly and boldly when the issue came, and were zealous throughout their long period of captivity in opposing the forces of his Majesty's government. After the colonists had seized the powder from the royal magazine, and had erected the liberty pole on King George's birthday, they went actively to work in fortify- ing the city against the British troops. In February, i 776, when the English warships and transports sailed up the river, they were met by the patriots with a galling volley, and their fleet was afterwards scattered by a fire-ship set adrift from the American shore, communi- cating the flames to the British boats and sending their men and sailors through the marshes in flight. On the 29th of December, 1778, General Howe, the commander of the Americans, was defeated by Colonel Campbell. The English and Hessian soldiers marched through a small path in the swamp, and fell suddenly upon the flank and rear of the Ameri- cans, consisting of but nine hundred men, while Colonel Campbell's forces, which had been landed at Tybee Island, numbered three thousand five hundred. The remainder of 3i8 Savannah General Howe's army escaped into South CaroHna, and the British took possession of Savannah, which they held for three years and a half. In October, 1779, a bloody battle was fought at Savannah, but the British again triumphed over the allied forces of the French and Americans. Count D'Estaing arrived off Tybee with thirty-five ships and five thousand men. General Lachlan Mcintosh and Count Casimir Pulaski marched down from Augusta and formed a junction with D'Estaing. The engagement took place at Spring Hill redoubt, now the site of the Georgia Railway. Count D'Estaing was shot, the noble Pulaski was killed, and the gallant Jasper, who endeavored to plant the American flag upon the redoubt, fell mortally wounded. Shortly afterwards, the French fleet sailed away, and the American forces were left to harass the enemy from time to time. This was done in splendid style by General Anthony Wayne, the Rough Rider of the Revolution, who dashed into the British with his flying columns and inflicted damage day by day. Finally, on the nth of July, 1782, the English surrendered to General Wayne, who entered the city and rescued it from its long captivity. A memorial tablet, Savannah 319 placed in position at the old site of Tondee's tavern, marks the spot where the early patriots, COUNT CASIMIR PULASKI. braving violence abroad, and even derision at home, erected their liberty pole, while the 320 Savannah frowning battlements of a model bastion commemorate the name of Pulaski. At the siege of Savannah the city held only about four hundred houses and less than one thousand people. George Washington, who visited the city in i 790, writes in his diary that the place was "high and sandy," that the town was surrounded with " rich and luxuriant rice fields," that the harbor was "filled with square rigged vessels," and that the chief trade was tobacco, indigo, hemp, lumber and cotton. General Washington was received with every evidence of honor, and the Chatham Artillery was by him presented with handsome guns. This memorable organization, second only to the Ancient and Honorables, of Hartford, fired a salute to George Washington, as they after- wards did to Presidents Monroe, Arthur, Cleve- land and McKinley upon their visits to this city. The Chathams served in the Civil War and in the late Spanish-American struggle. The first steamship ever built in the United States was projected and owned in this city. It was named the Savannah, and in April, 18 19, sailed for Liverpool, completing the voyage across the sea in twenty-two days. Off Cape Clear the Savaimak was signalled as a vessel 322 Savannah on fire, and a cutter was sent to Cork for her relief. Thus Savannah perfected not only the cotton-gin, but steam navigation, which revolu- tionized the industry and commerce of the world. Savannah continued to prosper down to the period of the Civil War, having com- pleted the Georgia Central Railway, the longest and most important line in the South and built up large foreign and domestic commerce at her port. When the troubles leading up to the Civil War opened. Savannah did not wait for the State of Georgia to secede, but, true to the traditions of Revolutionary ancestry, seized Fort Pulaski on the 3d of January, 1861. The State convention, which framed a new constitution for Georgia, assembled in Savan- nah on the 7th of March, and the fiag of the Confederacy was thrown to the breeze from the United States Custom House with a salute of seven guns, one for each State of the young nation. The moving spirit of secession in Savannah, the " Mad Anthony Wayne " of the State, was Francis S. Bartow, a young man who, failing to receive permission from the State authorities to go to Virginia, summoned his company and went without orders, sending Savannah 323 back in defiance the message to Governor Brown : " I go to illustrate Georgia." He was killed with several of his command at the first battle of Manassas, so that Savannah received the baptism of blood at the very beginning of the Civil War. In November, 1861, General Robert E. Lee made his headquarters i n Savannah and in- spected its defen- c es. He pro- nounced Fort Pu- laski impregnable, and said its walls, which were seven and a half feet thick, would with- stand the heaviest cannon. The rifled ofuns of large calibre, however, had not then been tested, and their penetrating power was un- known. As a matter of fact, the fort was breached by Union batteries from Tybee Island in one day. On the nth of April, 1862, R. M. CHARLTON, POET, JURIST, U. S. SENATOR. 324 Savannah General Gillmore, who had constructed the fort for the Government at a cost of $500,000, re- duced it at a range of from two thousand to three thousand five hundred yards. One remarkable fact about the defence of Fort Pulaski was that the Confederates allowed the Northern fleet to sail back of the fort through Wall's Cut, and interrupt communication with the city. It was through this identical channel that the British reinforced their troops in 1 779, the French fleet failing to guard the narrow pass. In July, 1863, the Confederate ironclad ship Atlanta, fitted out in Savannah, sailed for Warsaw Sound to meet the monitors U\'chaw- ken and Nahaiit. The Atlanta ran ag-round, and was shot to pieces by her antagonists. On December 26, 1864, General Sherman's army captured the city, eighty-six years, almost to the day, after the British captured it from General Howe. Savannah then contained about twenty thousand people. To-day it has over sixty thousand, is the largest and busiest seaport on the South Atlantic, ships more than a million bales of cotton a year, and handles more than a million packages of naval stores. At Tybee Roads, where Oglethorpe first anchored his good ship Ann; where the Savannah 325 English fleet halted before attacking the town ; where D'Estaino- moored his French frio-ates and waited for the Americans to join him ; where the colonists captured the powder ship from the Enp;lish, the first naval enoraeement of the Revolution ; where the sturdy Southern ironclad met the invulnerable monitors of the Union, ships of every flag now ride and rest. Not alone the little "square-rigged vessels" which Washinofton saw, but biof ocean steam- ships, of which the Savannah was the pioneer, now plow their way to foreign and domestic ports. The shipping of Savannah exceeds that of all the South Atlantic and Gulf ports from Baltimore to Mobile. MOBILE THE GULF CITY" By peter J. HAMILTON PERHAPS Mobile is the only American city which has seen five flags wave as em- blems of the peaceful rule of as many civilized powers. She has been French, English, Span- ish, American and Confederate by turn, and her street names perpetuate her varied story. In the original Creole limits, we find Dauphin and Royal, of the French era ; Government, St. Joseph, and Conception, of the Spanish ; just without, come many American names like Jackson, Franklin, Monroe, and Congress ; and the Mexican War produced Monterey ; while Beauregard, Davis Avenue, and Charleston Street, among others, point to Confederate times and feelings. The Latin element is merged in the Teutonic, but it is still shown by the narrow thoroughfares, in the character of 327 o 28 Mobile the people, and in some of their institutions and diversions. Steam, electricity, sewers, waterworks, shell roads and handsome build- ings have caused a long and romantic history to be half forgotten. Let us recall its chief events. The region had a story even back of the European. Not only are Dauphine Island and the Portersville coast at the mouth of the bay fringed with banks of oyster-shell, but on the marsh islands of the Mobile delta, and in the swamps adjoining, one often finds huge piles of clam-shells and high mounds of earth. These sometimes contain human bones and ornaments, and point to a large native popu- lation before the white man came. An Indian race, the Choctaw, gave the name to the river and bay, and thus to the present city ; iox Maitbila, or "paddling" In- dians, long occupied what is now South Ala- bama, and their language was in later days the trade jargon from the Atlantic to the Missis- sippi. Their primitive manner of living was interrupted about three centuries and a half ago. The West Indies then became Spanish, and the mainland was explored in all directions for colonization. A map of 15 13, attributed Mobile 329 to Columbus, shows many indentations on the north coast of the Mexican Gulf, then without a name, and the only one of them with a river (Rio de la Palma) resembles Mobile Bay. From time to time afterwards a score of other maps, with gradually increasing distinctness, de- velop the true outline. On them the principal feature of the north coast is a pear-shaped bay within the shore-line, into which empty one or more rivers called Rio del Espiritu Santo, or some variation of that name. It is first dis- tinct on the map which Governor Garay of Jamaica sent home, as showing Pineda's explo- ration of Florida in 15 19. Some have thought this the Mississippi River, with a total disre- gard of the fact that the delta of that great river projects out into the Gulf, while this bay is within the coast. We have to wait a cen- tury and a half before there is any account of the exploration of the Mississippi mouth ; and meantime, dozens of maps show the bay or river of the Holy Spirit. It is, on the map, the most prominent object on the north coast of the Gulf, corresponding to Panuco (Tampico) on the west. Spanish ships visited it, and some explorers have left descriptions. Narvaez possibly wintered in it on his disastrous voyage 330 Mobile of 1528, and a French tradition was that piles of bones on Dauphine Island were remains of his men. Here, or in Pensacola Bay, De Soto's admiral, Maldonado, waited for De Soto, and here he certainly touched later in search of his lost master. The famous expedition of De Soto crossed the Mobile River basin at risfht angles, but the itinerary is uncertain. The Spaniards did not care enough to map it intelligently, and the Indians, according to the proverb, could tell no tales. It is doubtful, indeed, if De Soto came much within a hundred miles of the present site of Mobile, although early French tradition makes, him to have crossed somewhere near the later settlement of Mobile Indians, about Mount Vernon landing. In 1558 was made the careful exploration by Bazares, who proceeded from Mexico east- ward towards peninsular Florida. Two bays he named Bas Fonde and Filipina. One was Mobile, and it was probably that called Filipina. The object was settlement, and the next year Tristan de Luna occupied the country with fif- teen hundred colonists and explored the inte- rior by Nanipacna and Cosa, up to the gold Mobile 331 region of Georgia. But it all ended only in mutiny and misfortune. There was more gold and less fighting in Mexico and South Amer- ica. The Spaniards claimed regions further north more to keep others from the Gulf than to colonize what is now the United States. Soon Hawkins, Drake, and the buccaneers on the Gulf gave Spain enough to do. The French occupied the St. Lawrence, and even part of Florida. Raleigh and others led out unsuccessful English colonies. After the wreck of the Armada had destroyed Spanish prestige, the advance of the French in Canada, and of the English farther south, was more rapid. Jamestown and Plymouth were the be- ginning of colonies which gradually lined the Atlantic. The French took possession of the Great Lakes, and, under Marquette, Joliet, and La Salle, explored the Mississippi to its mouth. The grand plan gradually took shape in the French mind of colonizing the mouth of the great river, bringing the native tribes under control, opening trade with them, discovering mines, and uniting Louisiana, as La Salle called it, with Canada by a chain of forts at 332 Mobile strategic points. La Salle did not live to ac- complish this. He was assassinated in modern Texas, after missing the mouth of the Missis- sippi. But a worthy successor was found af- ter a few years in the elder Lemoyne, better known as Iberville. In 1699. he was success- ful in finding the mouth of the great river, but realized that its swamps offered no site for a colony. He and his brother, Bienville, ex- plored the tributaries and the adjacent coasts, and a fort was temporarily thrown up on what is now the east side of the Back Bay of Biloxi. On Iberville's return from France, in 1702, the permanent seat of the colony was placed at 27 Mile Bluff, on Mobile River, amid the friendly and industrious Indians. The Spaniards, who had themselves lately occupied Pensacola, vig- orously remonstrated at this occupation of Florida, as they had at the building of Fort Maurepas at Biloxi. But Iberville was acting for Louis XIV., and soon had everything of value moved via Massacre (now Dauphine) Island and Mobile Bay to Fort Louis de la Mobile. A town was laid out and settled. Conferences with Choctaws and Chickasaws followed, and alliances were made. The estab- lishment of what was even then popularly -f-..v FACSIMILE PAGE OF BAPTISMAL RECORD (1704) WITH THE AUTOGRAPH OF BIENVILLE. 333 334 Mobile called Mobile was the entrance of a new power into the Gulf country. Tonty, the old com- panion of La Salle, came to stay, and colonists from France were brought to the port at Dau- phine Island by every ship. The shadowy Spanish claim became forgotten west of Pen- sacola, and the English traders from the Atlan- tic colonies found active competitors. French influence became dominant in all the g-reat Mississippi Valley. It showed itself in explo- ration, religion, trade, and war, and was all di- rected from Mobile. Exploration and religion went together. The Jesuits had not as strong a hold as in Canada, and the Relatioiis throw little light on Louisiana. But the Seminary of Quebec had missionaries like Davion on the Missis- sippi and at Mobile, and Jesuits were found among the Creeks and Choctaws. The Illi- nois region was already known, and portages there and eastward became important, where canoes and supplies were carried from the Lakes to head waters of rivers emptying into the Gulf. Their value continued until our own century, and has pointed the way for sys^tems of canals. Le Sueur, who, with his influential family, lived at Mobile, explored the Mobile 335 upper Mississippi and Wisconsin Rivers, whence he carried green earth to France. The Ohio River was occupied to keep back the English, whose traders penetrated even to the Chickasaws and Arkansas, near modern Memphis, and Juchereau established a fort and tannery not far from our Cairo. The Red River was explored in order to bar out the Spaniards and to seize their mines. St. Denis penetrated Texas, and, as a prisoner, visited Mexico. Even the Missouri was ascended in the hopes of finding a way to the Pacific and to the Chinese trading there. Of course, the Mobile waters were well known, and frinaed with industrious plantations. In 1714, Bien- ville took advantage of a war between the Creeks and English colonists to found Fort Toulouse among the Alibamon Indians, below Wetumpka, a move of great importance, and Fort Tombecbe high up on the Tombigbee was one good result of the unfortunate 1 736 war with the Chickasaws. Trade was at the bottom of everything. The Spaniards of Pensacola and Vera Cruz refused all commercial intercourse, and there was little more success with Havana. There was some smuggling, however, and a good oo 6 Mobile deal was accomplished throii^di the buccaneers and freebooters who roved the Gulf, But the Indians needed blankets, guns and ammuni- tion, beads and gewgaws, and could supply furs, skins and provisions. Much could have been done in the way of agriculture, but, be- yond introducintr ficrs and raising some veije- tables for local use and indigo for export, the colonists accomplished little. They were not of the right kind. At first they were from too high a rank in society to do much manual labor, and after John Law and his Mississippi Bubble exploited the province they were often jail-birds and prostitutes. Starvation faced them every now and then ; mutiny was not un- known ; and quarrels of priest and command- ant, governor and intendant, were going on almost all the time. And yet in war and diplomac)' they did much. It was mainly with the Indians, al- though once Pensacola was captured from the Spanish, and Dauphine Island suffered from both Spanish and English attacks. The Choctaws and Creeks were held in alliance by contrresses at Mobile ; the Cherokees and Chickasaws were sometimes friendly, and the Mississippi River was kept open for free -J ■■. H - ^^ ■ :..--i/-*i •«»'.-i '-^t»-,- i—^ r :-g,J- ; V ; ; i ; — "1 ^"T~T ; ^ i — -J---- ] il^h .. .-r^il. -r-^r- -t -y ■ ;■ I . I , -■-»■ ;-i, -^ _,■ : lo^ : f — I — I — — .' ^ ■ ■^'" : »^ ,W<1 -«<) •^^ ''^* .*-\^ ^?arfO ' ' I W '"^ 'I^ . "^ ' "^ ' [i l: rr:3>»;.;;±';ii:v.r. ■:;.:::..; r'" ■■• ; •■ : ... ..A:'*',. ,-1 : -^•. .^■. !•, 7^ astonishment of friend and foe, the Tennessee boldly made straight up the bay to ram the Federal fleet. Vessel after vessel rammed and fought her, but she held her own, unwavering, seeking the flagship Hartford, which, however, was too swift for her to overtake. She en- pfao^ed the whole fleet at once in one of the most heroic naval combats of history, and did not desist until her plates were loosened, port shutters jammed, smoke-stack carried away, many of the crew wounded, Admiral Buchanan disabled, and the steering apparatus shot away, leaving her as helpless as a log. Then, at last, she hauled down her flag. Farragut sent Bu- chanan and the wounded to Pensacola, a ship peaceably passing the fort after arrangements had been made for that purpose under a flag of truce. Troops landed on Dauphine Island had al- ready driven the Confederates into Fort Gaines, and it was invested by land and sea. Farragut had an interview with Col. Anderson, convinced him that resistance was useless, and thus induced him to surrender the fort with all its stores. The Pelham Cadets, Mobile's home guard of young men, had lately been sent down, and they were captured with the regular garrison. 2>1^ Mobile General Granger landed at Navy Cove with an overwhelming force, and after approaches, run gradually closer from day to day, by the 2 2d Fort Morgan was completely invested by army and navy. The discipline of the garrison continued perfect, standing the test of an un- broken bombardment, whose thunders were heard at Mobile, thirty miles away. Many shells were thrown into the fort, the citadel fired, and at last the walls were breached in several places. Further defence was impos- sible, and after spending a night in destroy- ing everything capable of destruction General Page surrendered. General J. E. Johnston is said to have pro- nounced Mobile the best fortified city in the Confederacy. If the fortifications on or near the Tensaw River could be taken, however, transports, if not vessels of the fleet, could be sent behind the torpedoes and obstructions to the city wharves. Therefore Canby, with forty-five thousand troops, including a column under Steele from Pensacola, undertook to overcome about five thousand Confederates in Spanish Fort, which was named from the bastion built by Galvez almost a century before. Randall L. Gibson, 374 Mobile since Senator from Louisiana, was there in com- mand, reporting — like Lidell at Blakeley — by telegraph to D. H. Maury at Mobile. Gib- son handled his fifteen hundred men admirably from Fort McDermett on the right, Red Fort in the centre, and along the line to the swamp, which was relied on to protect his left. The principal gun in his Red Fort was an eight- inch Columbiad, cast at Selma in 1863, and manned by Louisiana artillery, commanded by Slocum. This gun did terrible execution, and dismantled a whole fortification. But, while the sand-bags were still removed for that shot, Federal gunners dismounted her, and killed several men at their posts by her side.^ Span- ish Fort held out thirteen days against over thirty thousand men. The riflemen in the opposing pits even became friendly, and ex- changed yarns and courtesies. The fleet, af- ter three vessels had been sunk by torpe- does, picked up enough torpedoes to get within range, and the discovery of a passage through the swamp made it necessary to abandon the whole fort. Blakeley, with its garrison of about three thousand, was finally ' This gun, called the Lady Slocum, could long be seen on Govern- ment Street in Mobile, but is now in New Orleans. Mobile 375 stormed on April 9th, the day Lee surrendered in Virginia. Maury felt that he could not hold Mobile with only four thousand five hundred men, for the Federals could now attack from the river and land at once ; and so he withdrew to Mer- idian, Blakeley was the last great battle of the war. The Federal troops occupied Mobile imme- diately upon the surrender by Mayor Slough on April 1 2th, camping in the suburbs, on Government Street and elsewhere. One un- fortunate result was the terrible explosion on May 25th, from careless handling of ammuni- tion in a warehouse on Water and Lipscomb Streets. There were hundreds killed, more than $700,000 of warehouse property was destroyed, and the whole business section of the city was injured. Such was the return of peace ! Mobile, since the Civil War, offers a fruitful field for study. The few flush years, when commerce first revived ; Reconstruction, with slaves over masters; bond issues from 1870 on railroads that were never built, resulting in bankruptcy in 1879; ^^^ panics of 1873 ^^^ 0/ 76 Mobile 1893, the first of which depressed everything, while the other showed that Mobile had be- come sound again ; new railroads and commer- cial o-rowth m every line, con- sequent on the Government's cutting the ship channel, twenty- three feet deep, through the bars AUGUSTA EVANS Wrt-SON, to the lower ba)- ; the orrow- ino- rivalry of the Gulf port with Eastern :rade to Latin harbors for the Western America and even Europe ; the passing of the once dreaded yellow fever ; the good relations which have existed between the negroes and whites since they were relieved of outside interference ; the Cuban War, with its American soldiers (some from Mobile) en- camped on ground once occupied by Confed- erates, and the picturesque embarkation of troops for Santiago ; extensive municipal im- provements ; impressive public structures, such Mobile o// as the Y. M. C. A. Building, new hotels, and the Semmes statue ; the advance of literature, also, which has kept Augusta Evans as Mrs. Wilson, and added Madame Chaudron, Father Ryan, T. C. De Leon, Amelie Rives, Hannis Taylor, and others : — these things are impor- tant, but are too recent for detailed treatment. The net result, however, is that Mobile has faced the political questions growing out of the war, the commercial conditions arising from the building of railroad systems eastward, the development of independent cities in what had been her exclusive territory, just as she has met so many other problems in her long history. What she could conquer she has overcome, and for what she must lose she has substi- tuted other industries. Lumber, coal and iron far overbalance the loss of cotton, and there is no mean array of manufactures, while her rail- road and steamship territory yearly increase. To-day her population, trade and prospects are greater than anything she has known be- fore. She has had little of the outside capital which other towns have enjoyed, and she has had no "booms." But the great fire of 1890, the storm of 1893, and even pestilence in 1897 did not daunt her. In wealth, culture and 378 Mobile industry this Latin-American town has carved out her own place. Her shady streets and drives invite visitors, and her pleasant homes shelter quiet but energetic people. Born in romance, baptized in fire, educated in com- merce, her past is interesting, her present prosperous, while her future promises to sur- pass them both. MONTGOMERY THE CRADLE OF THE CONFEDERACY By GEORGE PETRIE MONTGOMERY is best known to the gen- eral reader as the " Cradle of the Con- federacy." He turns to its history, if he cares to read it at all, to get a clearer local back- ground for the stirring scenes enacted there in '6 1. And it would have been hard to select for them a more appropriate setting. For in many ways Montgomery was then a typical Southern town. Situated in the heart of the cotton region, surrounded and supported by large plan- tations, it was the centre of much wealth and refinement. As the home of Yancey and other men of unusual ability and divergent politics, it had been the battleground where all phases of secession were keenly discussed. Moreover, although founded by a New Englander and 379 ;8o Montgomery OLD CANNON OF BIENVILLE. ori^inall}- named New Philadelphia, it had from the first taken a vigorous part in the economic and political struggles which gradu- ally separated North and South. To reach the origin of Mont- gomery, one must go back nearly to the beginnintrof the century. From the misty tradi- tions that early gathered like an Indian-sum- mer haze about the red bluffs on which the city now stands, the first tangible object to emerge is old ]\Ioore's log cabin, perched insecurely on the high river-bank. Here Captain Woodward visited him, and long afterwards wrote : " Ar- thur IMoore, the first white man that built a house and lived in it at Montgomery, built it in the latter part of 1815, or early in 1816. The cabin stood upon the bluff above w^hat was once called the ravine. . . . The spot where the cabin stood had long gone into the river before I left the country." Here it stood high and solitary on the crumbling cliff, a pic- turesque connecting link between the legendary Montgomery 381 days of the Indian Town, Ecunchatty, and the bustling Western scenes so soon to follow. Barely two years later the territorial govern- ment of Alabama was established, and the prospect of protection under it proved an in- ducement to the tide of population then setting strongly toward the Southwest. Fabulous re- ports of the fertility of the soil got abroad, and a steady stream of settlers poured across from the land office at Milledofeville, Georma, through the Creek lands into Alabama terri- tory. Among these pioneers were many men of excellent family from all parts of the South, and even from far off New Enofland. One of the earliest was Andrew Dexter, of Rhode Island, nephew of the well-known Samuel Dex- ter, of Massachusetts. In 181 7 he bought the land on which the eastern half of Montgomery now stands, and paid for it later with the assist- ance of John Falconer, a fellow pioneer from South Carolina. Dexter was a man of lar^e ideas and remarkable foresig^ht, and at once recognized the importance of his purchase as a site for a town. By the very modern plan of offering free lots, he persuaded several traders to join his venture, and proceeded to lay off 382 Montgomery his town. With touchinof faith, he reserved a fine site on the crest of the most command- ing- hill for the future state capitol. It was a prophetic dream that had to wait thirty years for its fulfilment. Goat-sheds meanwhile adorned its brow, and gave it the unpoetic name, " Goat Hill," Among the original settlers who came with Dexter was John G, Klinck, a South Caro- linian of sanguine and enthusiastic tempera- ment, who, writing years afterwards of the town in these early days, says : " As soon after this as I could have the centre pointed out to me, I selected my lot, which was a privilege of first choice, and to name the place, which I called New Philadelphia — and the name was never changed until 1819, I employed a Mr, Bell to build me a cabin, and in showing him where, we found on the corner a post oak in the way of laying the ground sill, when I immedi- ately seized the axe and felled it, remarking to Bell, * This is the first tree : future ages will tell the tale.' " Immigration was brisk, and the high and healthy bluffs were tempting sites for homes. So the next year, 1818, two more towns sprang up in sight of New Philadelphia. One was a mile or two down stream, and bore the name " Alabama Town." The other, Montgomery 383 immediately adjoining, was called " East Ala- bama Town." Its site is now included in the part of Montgomery west of Court Street. The jealous rivalry that followed was seasoned with many pranks played by one town on the other. The redoubtable Mr. Klinck, on one chilly night, fired his musket with such con- tinued energy that the neighboring town sup- posed the Indians were upon them, fled over the river, and men, women and children spent the night among the canes and bushes. The inconvenience of this rivalry soon be- came apparent, and on December 3, 1819, New Philadelphia and East Alabama Town were united in one town called Montgomery, a name whose origin Mr. Klinck explains thus : " All was agreed, and the union took place. Now for the name ? What shall be done ? It will never do to call it ' New Philadelphia,' nor ' Yankee Town ' : either scent too strong for ' Georgy.' I have it : we will call it Montgomery, after the county. It was settled upon with- out a dissenting voice, and to the great satisfaction of all concerned, the name being equally dear to every Ameri- can throughout the land." On the other hand, the Montgomery Rep2ib- lica7i of 1 82 1 states very positively that the county was named after Lemuel Montgomery, who fell in the fieht aeainst the Creek Indians 3^4 Montgomery at Horseshoe, and the town after Richard Montgomery, who was killed at Quebec. Per- haps the river bluffs may have suggested to local pride the heights of Quebec, or possibly the true explanation is suggested in Klinck's last sentence. It was a name equally satisfac- tory to all parties. Like a political platform, they all accepted it, and then interpreted it to suit their tastes. The origin of the city in the union of two towns may still be traced in the fact that the streets west of lower Court Street run at an angle to those east of it. Alabama Town stayed out of the consolidation, but the union town had superior resources. First the business, then the citizens, drifted over, and like the earlier Indian town it passed into the twilight of history. With union came strength and bigger no- tions, and Montgomery, in the twenties, was a bustling little frontier town, full of enterprise and ambition. One writer, with fond enthusi- asm, speaks of its "dense population." The editor of its first newspaper wrote : " Montgom- ery, from its high and airy situation . . is considered peculiarly healthy ; indeed, many resort to that section during the Summer months. . . . For an infant establishment, Montgomery 385 it may be called a pleasant, flourishing town." In another issue he adds: "Its present popu- lation is about six hundred." There was a healthy demand for houses, as is shown by the advertisements in the news- paper. One man offers a gun and a rifle in exchange for planks and shingles, and another a saddle-horse for bricks and mortar. A whole- some respect, at least, was shown for learning in the prompt establishment of schools, and in the advertised arrival of such sturdy books as Murray's Gramma}^, Webster's Speller, Watts's Psalms and Hymns, and (for lighter use) song and dream books. Town and country struggle amusingly in the ordinance that imposed a tax of fifty cents for every dog a family kept — more than one. The Court-House stood in the centre of what is at present Court Square, and from it the houses extended mainly in two lines, one up what is now Dexter Avenue, toward Goat Hill, the other down Commerce Street toward the river. Perhaps a trace of the New Eng- land " Meetinof-house " is to be found in the multifarious uses to which this building was put. Here law courts met with suggestive fre- quency during the week, and the congregation 386 Montgomery assembled on Sundays when notified by a special messenger that a preacher was in town, while celebrations, oratory, and even dancing, kept it lively at night, A motley population rises before our eyes as we run throucrh the list of their amusements. There is the speculator at the horse-races, the frontiersman at the Indian ball game, the vocif- ferous patriot at the regular celebration of the Fourth of July and Washington's Birthday, and even the spirits of defeated Indians and English seem to gaze grimly from the back- ground at the hearty observance of Jackson Day. Yet among all these the most significant fact is the earnestness and delight with which the drama was cultivated. A company com- posed of local amateurs on December 1 7, 1822, presented Shakespeare's play, Jtilius Ccssar, in the upper story of the old build- ing still standing at the corner of Commerce and Tallapoosa Streets, and if we may believe the newspaper " it went down to the satis- faction of a numerous and splendid audience." Of the actors, one afterwards became Gov- ernor of Alabama, another United States Sen- ator, another a State Supreme Court Judge, and a fourth, Governor of Georgia. o 88 Montgomery It was a memorable day in the history of this httle town when, on April 3, 1825, the great Frenchman Lafayette, then on his last visit to America, stopped here. The reception given him, though not without its amusing in- cidents, portrays vividly the eager and open- hearted temper of the citizens. Escorted by three hundred Alabamians and a number of Indians, he reached Montgomery on a beauti- ful spring morning, and was met by the entire population on what is now Capitol Hill. Cap- tain Woodward, who was one of his escort, thus quaintly describes the scene : "On Goat Hill, and near where Captain John Carr fell in the well, stood Governor Pickens and the largest crowd I ever saw in Montgomery. Some hundred yards east of the Hill was a sand flat, where General Lafayette and his attendants quit carriages and horses, formed a line and marched to the top of the hill. As we started, the band struck up the old Scottish air, Hail to the Chief. As we approached the Governor, Mr. Hill introduced the General to him. The Governor tried to welcome him ; but, like the best man the books give account of, when it was announced that he was commander of the whole American forces, he was scarcely able to utter a word. So it was with Governor Pickens. As I have remarked before, Governor Pickens had no superior in the State, but on that occasion he could not even make a speech. But that did not prevent General Lafayette Montgomery 389 from discovering that he was a great man. . . . The people of Montgomery did their duty. Col. Arthur Hayne, who was a distinguished officer in the army in the war of 1813, and who was the politest gentleman I ever saw, was the principal manager. If the Earl of Chesterfield had happened there, he would have felt, as I did the first time I saw a carpet on a floor, and was asked to walk in. I declined, saying, ' I reckon I have got in the wrong place.' " He was hospitably entertained at Colonel Edmonson's, on Commerce Street, where he received with kindly grace the crowds that pressed around him. At night a grand ball OLD BUILDING liN WHICH LAFAYETTE BALL WAS GIVEN IN 1825. 390 Montgomery was oriven him in the buildinof now standing on the corner of Commerce and Tallapoosa Streets ; and in the small hours "a large con- course of citizens escorted him through the darkness down to the landing, and bid him a hearty but mournful adieu amid torrents of tears." Frontier life conduces to early maturity in cities as well as in men, and Montgomery was no exception to the rule. The hard knocks that produce self-reliance were not slow in coming. In spite of disastrous freshets and destructive epidemics, the population increased, and with its growth came a new and rougher element. An old newspaper suggests drily : " It requires no stretch of art to put rubbish before a shop door ; to take down a ginger- bread-maker's sign ; to take the wheek from a lady's carriage and put them on a silversmith's shop ; and make noise enough to disturb the slumbers of the sick by beating stirrups for triangles, and blowing conch-shells for French horns." Drunkenness and gambling increased, and the same paper soon had occasion to add : "This is the third, if not the fourth, attempt at homicide in this place within a few months." Such things were the first test of the city's Montgomery 391 capacity for self-government, and were met by primitive but rigorous measures. Indecency of language or conduct was punished by a ducking in some neighboring pond, followed by a ride on a rail. There is a record of an outrageous scoundrel who attempted to steal and sell an Indian family, and was promptly whipped through the streets by the squaws while the citizens lined up and saw it well done. But the lawlessness increased until finally it destroyed the peace and threatened the existence of the town. Then it was that the law-abiding class rose in mass, and under the leadership of Colonel John H. Thorington put down the gang and cleaned out their haunts. If they had at times been too lenient toward lawlessness, and at others too impatient to wait for legal formalities, a ready explanation may be found in their absorption in business cares and enterprises. A new country of un- known resources had to be developed. Other things must wait. Governor Gilmer, of Georgia, who visited Montgomery in 1833, was deeply — perhaps too deeply — impressed with this side of their life. He says: " I found the fertile lands of Montgomery settled up with active, intelligent, wealthy citizens, who had been 39- Montgomery drawn to it from tlie old States by the great advantages which it afforded to those who desired to increase their riches. The rapid accumulation of wealth whetted the appetite for getting money, until the people could not be satisfied with any quantity acquired. It was a subject of wondering cogitation to me, who had for many years been constantly taken up with the affairs of the govern- ment, and the strife of party politics, to listen to my Montgomery friends talking without ceasing of cotton, negroes, land and money." The hardest problem that the business man of those earl)' times had to face was the ques- tion of transportation. Dry goods, groceries and manufactured articles had at first been brought from Savannah and Charleston by wagon or horseback. But the way was long, the roads wretched, — especially through the Creek territory, — and the Indians demanded exorbitant tolls at the bridges ; so the method was anything but satisfactory, and other plans were soon tried. Barcfes and flatboats were laboriously poled up from Mobile. They bore the promising names, Alabama Szvan, Lady of the Lake, Cotton Patch and Ready Money, but consumed from fifty to seventy days on the trip. The local paper records the arrival of an " amphibious animal in the shape of a boat from East Tennessee." It came down the Tennes- Montgomery 393 see, was transported across thirty miles of land to the Coosa, and by that river reached its destination. After a journey of a thousand miles, it finally arrived with an amusing assort- ment of liour, whiskey, apple brandy, cider, dried fruit, feathers and a five-wheel carriage, — some of which must have been taken on board near the end of the trip. Under such circumstances, the arrival of the first steamboat, the Harriet, on October 22, 182 1, marked an epoch. Nor did the town fail to appreciate its importance. The entire population turned out to bid it welcome. The next day it carried an excursion up the river at the lively rate of six miles an hour. Steam was too precious to be wasted in whistling, so a gun was fired to signal its approach. While the Sioans and the Harriets were struggling for supremacy, a third rival destined to supplant them both made its modest appear- ance. The Montgomery Railroad, delayed by the panic of ' 2)1^ opened the first twelve miles of its line for business in 1840. It made no great display, and when the engine was out of fix horses were substituted without hesitation or serious loss of time. But it was the beginning of a system that soon put the city in close 394 Montgomery communication with the older Eastern States ; and when President Davis came in 1861 over the same road, he traveled in a private car made in its own shops at Montgomery. Business was the dominant interest during the first two decades of the city's existence, and may have seemed to visitors like Governor Gilmer to exclude all other thoughts ; yet be- neath the surface there smouldered the South- ern devotion to politics. The town was scarcely two years old when the Missouri question gave rise to an ardent discussion of State rights, which found frequent occasion for renewal in subsequent years ; and at the public dinner prepared in celebration of the Fourth of July, 1826, there were two toasts whose sentiment seems strangely significant in the light of after events. They were : "The Union of the States — The golden chain of our liberties ; dissolved into its minute links, the fabric falls into ruin." " States Rights — The ark of our safety ; every attempt to violate them should be regarded as highly obnoxious to the holy spirit of the Constitution." Nor was their zest for politics a mere fond- ness for empty debate or idle personalities. It was an innate love for public affairs, a desire Montgomery 395 to discuss and to take part in whatever touched the pubHc welfare. Now it was a question of State versus national power in the Creek re- gion, and they with other Alabamians took such a lively hand in it that Francis S. Key, the author of The Star Spangled Banner, had to be sent down as special commissioner to smooth matters over. A year later it was Texas struggling against the absolutism of Santa Anna, and so keen was the interest felt at Montgomery that a mass-meeting was held in the theatre, funds were contributed, and a company of forty men under Captain Ticknor was raised in the immediate neighborhood. In addition to the princely pay of $8 a month, there was the uncertain promise of a square mile of land out there. They got just six feet of it ; for they were massacred after surrender at Goliad. In 1840, their attention was engrossed by the picturesque " Tippecanoe and Tyler too " campaign. Log cabins, coon- skins, and hard cider were seen on every hand, and the " Great ball," which the Whig enthu- siasts rolled through so many cities as a spec- tacular admonition to " keep the ball rolling," passed through the streets inscribed with de- nunciations of the Nullifiers. 396 Montgomery But, after all, the event which made politics a prominent feature of life at Montgomery was the removal thither of the State capital. Tuscaloosa, its location at that time, not being ALABAMA STATE C.-.f .TuL vVriERE PRESIDENT DAVIS WAS INAUGURATED. accessible enough, a constitutional amend- ment was adopted providing for its removal, and on January 28, 1846, the Legislature, after a hot contest, selected Montgomery as the site. Two days later, the Selma stage brought the news to the city. Next day there was a Montgomery 397 grand procession, and at night there were bon- fires and a jolhfication that would have glad- dened the soul of old Andrew Dexter. His de- sire was to be fulfilled, and the capitol was to stand on the very lot he had reserved for it on Goat Hill nearly thirty years before. The new building, erected by the city, was ready in in the fall of '47 ; the archives in one hundred and thirteen boxes were laboriously brought from Tuscaloosa in thirteen wagons, at a cost of $1325 — figures as significant of poor trans- portation facilities as they are full of the magical number thirteen — and all was ready for the Legislature, which met in December. The effect on the city is vividly described in Garrett's Piiblic Men : " The novelty of the occasion, together with the greater facilities to reach the seat of government, brought to- gether an immense concourse of people. . . . The hotels were crowded to inconvenience, private boarding- houses were increased and thronged, and every avenue to the capitol presented at all hours of the day a stirring multitude. Candidates for the various ofhces were as thick as blackbirds in a fresh plowed field in spring." The new building was burned two years later, but was immediately rebuilt on substan- tially the same plan. 398 Montgomery Immediately on becoming the seat of gov- ernment, Montgomery of course became the most important place politically in the State, and during the stirring years before the Civil War was the scene of many events which con- nected its history more and more closely with that of the country at large, and paved the way for the conspicuous part it was to play in •61. The war with Mexico, like the stru^-crle of Texas, aroused here more than a passing in- terest. In spite of the sad fate of Captain Ticknor's men, its citizens enlisted again and went to the front under Captain Rush Elmore and Colonel J. J. Seibels ; and during the first few weeks of its session in the new capitol the Legislature suspended routine work more than once to join in the enthusiastic receptions ac- corded such returning heroes as Generals Quitman and Shields. From that time until the Confederacy was born in its midst, the little city, like a moun- tain lake, bore on its rulTled surface traces of every storm that passed over the land. No other city reflected more vividly the heated debates in Congress over the fatal territorial problems thrust on us by the Mexican War. Montgomery 399 Nowhere else was the attitude of the South on these burning questions stated so promptly and so emphatically as in the once famous Alabama Platform, first presented by Mr. Yancey, February 14, 1848, to a great political convention assembled in the capitol. The scene was historic, and is thus described by his biographer, Mr. DuBose : " At this stage in the proceedings Mr. Yancey rose. The galleries were crowded with ladies and their escorts ; the floor, lobbies, and rotunda were packed with men. He drew from his pocket his own resolutions and read them. . . . He spoke at length. ... A vote was taken, and Yancey's resolutions were adopted, with- out even one opposing voice, amidst the most enthusiastic cheering on the floor and in the lobbies, the ladies in the galleries waving their handkerchiefs in the contagion of joy." It was a characteristic example of his keen political foresight and also of the wonderfully persuasive eloquence that set his hearers on fire. No orator ever combined more perfectly closeness of reasonings with the fire of earnest- ness and an irresistible personal magnetism. The capitol, old Estelle Hall, every public place in the city, rang with the mellow tones of his voice ; his debates with Hilliard were attended by throngs never equaled in the 4o^ Montgomery- State before or since ; and the mention of his name at this day arouses in the memory of old residents a sense of ecstasy produced by no other. No better idea of his manner can be given than by quoting once more from his biography, this time from a letter of General H. D. Clayton, describing a subsequent im- promptu debate with his great friend and opponent, Hilliard : " Mr, Hilliard, being loudly called, took his stand, and made the graceful speech he always does. . . Then broke forth the deafening, enthusiastic cry, ' Yan- cey, Yancey.' He came like a man conscious of right should always come. . . . As with modesty becom- ing a maiden of sixteen, he requested to be permitted to occupy the stand, ' To the stand,' shouted an hundred voices. . . . Bowing low he began — Here I must pause. I should despise my own presumption should I undertake further description of what followed. First went the Confederation newspaper, once in existence, now a dream, a shadow of things that were, gone glim- mering like a schoolboy's tale. At every blow some foe fell, broken in every bone. For just two hours this work of destruction proceeded amidst deafening shouts from the throats of what is admitted on all sides to have been at least two-thirds of the crowded house, called to put Yancey down." In the debates and speeches of those days the men and the measures of the last decade FIRST PAGE OF THE PERMANENT CONSTITUTION OF THE CONFEDERATE STATES AS REFORTtD BY THE COMMITTEE. THIS IS IN THE HANDWRITING OF GEN. THOS. R. R. COBB, WHO WAS A MEMBER OF THE COMMITTEE. TAKEN FROM THE O^IIGINAL, WHICH IS IN THt! POSSESSION 401 OF MR. A. L. HULL, ATHENS, GA, 402 Montgomery before the war are preserved with a vividness that seems almost magical. Estelle Hall echoes with fierce discussions of the great Compromise of 1850. What a vista of history opens before the mind as the streets resound to the tramp of Colonel Buford's men on their vain errand to Kansas ! And what a sobering sense of reality it brings to read his card in the papers ! " I wish to raise three hundred in- dustrious, sober, discreet, reliable men, capable of bearing arms ; not prone to use them wick- edly or unnecessarily, but willing to protect their section in every real emergency." But interesting- as these incidents are to the student, they were historically only preliminary to the dramatic events connected with the se- cession of the State and the organization of the Confederate Government. The course of South Carolina and the propositions for com- promise had been watched with the greatest eagerness, and when the Alabama Convention assembled in the capitol on January 7, 1861, the excitement was intense. Hotels were crowded, lobbies thronged, the factions were busy caucusing, and so close did the estimate of votes run that a delegate who was opposed to secession exclaimed : " Mr. Yancey can save T^'mmmmmimmiffim in; I H\si I M !! \ ru \ ii;i)i: i; \ i i. - ; \ i _L. THE PERMANENT CONSTITUTION OF THE CONFEDERATE STATES. AS REPORTED BY COMMITTEE AMD AMENDED BY CONGRESS, IS IN THE POSSESSION OF THE DAUGHTER OF ALEX. B. CLITHERALL, MRS. A. C. BIRCH, MONTGOMERY, ALA. 403 404 Montgomery the Union by the wave of his hand." When the convention finally, on January iith, came to a vote, the scene was a solemn and impres- sive one. Mr. Yancey, as chairman of the committee to draw up the ordinance of seces- sion, rose to close the debate. The majorit)- of the committee, he said, preferred that the ordinance should state simply that the State resumed its original sovereignty by its own act, without adding anything that might seem an apology ; but for harmony they had yielded to the desire of the minority and agreed to a pre- amble and certain resolutions. The question was put and the vote stood 6i to 39. Ala- bama had declared her independence. The scenes that followed are best described in the next day's newspaper : "the RUBICON IS CROSSED. "Yesterday will form a memorable epoch in the his- tory of Alabama. On that day our gallant little State resumed her sovereignty, and became free and indepen- dent. So soon as it was announced that the ordinance of secession had passed, the rejoicing commenced and the people seemed wild with excitement. At the mo- ment the beautiful flag presented by the ladies to the convention was run up on the capitol, . . . the can- non reverberated through the city, the various church Montgomery 405 bells commenced ringing, and shout after shout might have been heard along the principal streets." At night the capitol and other buildings were " most beautifully illumined," and fireworks and speeches gave vent to feelings long pent up. But in the excited crowd were sad hearts as well as gay. Many who heartily believed in the right of secession deemed it inexpedient at the time. A few caught some vision of the dreadful days to come ; and one house at least amidst the general rejoicing was draped in mourninof. All hesitation was, however, soon swept away by the contagious excitement of the speedy assembling of the Confederate Con- gress. South Carolina had suggested Mont- gomery as the place of meeting, partly because of its central location, partly because of the conspicuous part it had already played. The idea met with favor, and the Alabama conven- tion gave the proper formal invitation. The little city, so soon to become the storm centre of the South, was at that time a town of some twelve thousand inhabitants, but made the proud boast of being the richest for its size in the country. A newspaper writer of the day thus describes it : 4o6 Montgomery " The principal streets are wide and well improved, the stores and other houses for the transaction of business are large, commodious and handsome. ... In re- gard to the private residences of the well-to-do portion of the population, too much cannot be said in their praise. A large number of them present much architec- tural skill and beauty, surrounded by capacious grounds. THE POLLARD RESIDENCE, BUILT BEFORE THE WAR. handsomely ornamented with the rarest shrubbery known to the South." Another visitor was impressed with the numerous " residences of gentlemen who own plantations in the hotter and less healthful parts of the State. Many of these have been educated in the older States, and with minds enlarged and liberalized by travel, they form, with their families, a cultivated and attractive society." Montgomery 407 Here assembled, on February 4, 1861, the MONUMENT TO CONFEDERATE SOLDIERS ERECTED ON THE CAPITOL GROUNDS BY THE LADIES' MEMORIAL ASSOCIATION. delegates from the Southern States that had seceded, and, amidst scenes still familiar to all 4o8 Monte^omery Americans, they proceeded to organize the Con- federate Government. The excitement cuhiii- nated with the arrival and inauofuration of Mr. Davis. An enormous crowd escorted h i m from the depot to the Exchange Hotel, where he was welcomed by Mr. Yancey in an apt little speech containing the famous words " The man and the hour have met," The cer- emony of inaugu- ration took place February i8th in front of the cap- itol. The enthusiasm was unbounded. One who was present declared years afterwards : " I never before or since that hour so exper- ienced the ecstasy of patriotism." At lo o'clock in the morning Mr. Davis left the Exchange in a carriage drawn by six white JEFFERSON DAVIS. Montgomery 409 horses. A vast throng escorted him up Dex- ter Avenue to the capitol. " After he took his seat on the platform in front of the capitol," wrote an eye-witness, " and a short prayer had been offered, he read a very neat little speech, not mak- ing many promises, but hoping by God's help to be able to fulfill all expectations. He took the oath amidst the deepest silence ; and when he raised his hand and his eyes to heaven, and said ' so help me God,' I think I never saw any scene so solemn and impressive." Years have gone by since those brave days. The scenes that so stirred not only Mont- gomery but the entire land have passed into the pages of history. The eager throng that crowded Capitol Hill, and hung breathlessly on every word of the brief inaugural address ; the riuCTinor cheers and the roar of cannon that welcomed the news of VirQ^inia's secession ; the groups of leaders planning earnestly laws and constitutions and deep schemes of public policy ; the soldiers in gray marching by with high hopes and light step ; the sad day when the Confederate Government packed its archives and took its departure for Richmond — these memories and a thousand others that cluster about them will always be kept alive by the tender sentiment that clings to the Lost Cause. 4IO Montgomery But Montgomery, true to the spirit of its history, does not look backward. Business enterprise has adapted itself to new surround- ings. It is to-day a city of the New South. On the site of the old Indian town, Ecunchatty, stands a great modern factory. The change is typical. Far over the wide stretches of field and river float the long streamers of smoke, the banners of the modern army of in- dustry, in striking but friendly contrast to the white dome on Capitol Hill, the centre of Montgomery's past and present political life. NEW ORLEANS "THE CRESCENT CITY" By grace king SAIL across the blue waters of the Gulf and make your way up the mighty current of the Mississippi, like the leisurely traveler of yore, if you wish to approach New Orleans in the proper way and spirit ; unless — which also furnishes a proper way and spirit — you wind your way down the mighty current, from some far northern starting-point. And for guidance provide not yourself with an up- to-date map of the United States, crisscrossed with railroads, and speckled with illegibly printed names of swarming towns. The pilot chart of the steamboat is the true informant here if you are not the fortunate possessor or borrower of some old print of the last century, one of those happy combinations of fact and imagination issued by the ancient cartographer 411 412 New Orleans in the effort to compromise old theories with new discoveries ; charts tracked by the foot of the pioneer, not by the wheel of the loco- motive, graded by the paddle of the canoe, not by that of the steamer ; charts that bear record to the history as well as geography of a country and chronicle its ever-clearer and ever- increasing vastness and importance. Upon such a niap was the name New^ Orleans first written down. Naught to the north but Canada and the Great Lakes ; to the east, the Atlantic sea- board with its mere fringe of English settle- ments fenced in by impassable mountains ; to the west, mountains again, and illimitable prairies, covered over by bounding buffalo. South, lay the Gulf of Mexico with Florida on the one side, Mexico on the other. From one of the Great Lakes at the north. Lake Michigan, to the Gulf of Mexico at the south, comes through the blank expanse of paper, the huge, black serpent line of the Mississippi twisting and curving through, a triumph of the artist, its great valley, pictured from mountain range to mountain range, teeming with Indian villao-es, fields of wavinof corn, droves of innu- merable deer, and illimitable forests. At the head of navigation lay the little village of New Orleans 413 Chicagou, about midway the little stronghold of St. Louis, at the terminus New Orleans ; the three names linking together across the distance two hundred years ago even as to-day. TOMB OF AVAR, CITY PARK. De Soto first conceived the project of found- ing a settlement upon the Mississippi River, his Rio Grande. As he lay stricken with fever upon its banks within sight of its majestic cur- rents, his mind dwelt upon the glory of annex- ing the great stream and its territory to Spain, the souls of its peoples to the Catholic Church. From his couch, he urged forward the building of the ships to be sent to Havana for the 414 New Orleans necessary supplies ; with dying ears he listened to the sound of the busy axes and hammers, and with dying voice he charged upon his men the accomplishment of what would turn all the suffering and loss of their expedition into brilliant success and ensure his fame and theirs to all time. But the Spaniards, sinking the body of their commander beneath the turbid waters of the Mississippi, sank there too his plans and am- bitions, and, turning their backs upon the river, recked not that Spain should gain or lose it. Over the burial spot of the Spanish explorer floated, a century and a half later, the boats of La Salle, the Canadian explorer. As he pad- dled his way down the gigantic stream, the like of which he had never dreamed existed in the world, he was, in thought, making that map of the country described above. And by the time his boats came into view of the Gulf, his scheme for affixing the great river and valley to France lay as clear in his mind as the blue expanse before his eyes. He would first build strongholds, settle colonies, and mass friendly Indians at the mouth of each tributary. French traders, coiirciirs cic boi's, and missionaries, with a free and secure route New Orleans 415 before them, would then ply their canoes back- wards and forwards between Lake Michigan and the Gulf, where French vessels would be lying at anchor in the sheltered harbor of the commodious city he purposed to build. The French flag once securely established on the Gulf coast of the continent meant nothing THE CUSTOM-HOUSE, NEW ORLEANS. less than the gradual elbowing of the English out of the country on the Atlantic side, and the capture of the Mexican gold mines from Spain whenever opportunity offered. Like De Soto, La Salle proved only a fore- runner in history. The brilliant scheme he 4i6 New Orleans conceived and failed to execute was carried to success ten years after his death by Iberville. He discovered the river from the Gulf, and, en- tering it, explored its course until he identified it as the river discovered from the Lakes by La Salle. And he it was who selected the site for the future city upon the Mississippi, the possession of which meant, to any power that held it, domination of the Gulf of Mexico and of the great waterway, the life artery of the Amer- ican continent. When Iberville selected that site upon the narrow neck of land lying be- tween the river and an equally navigable chain of lakes, he wrote the history of his city in advance. The first year of the eighteenth century saw France indeed mistress of the Mississippi and of the Gulf of Mexico, but Iberville, like De Soto and La Salle, was cut off in the prime of life and activity, and his work was left to an- other for accomplishment — to Bienville, his young brother. One cannot think of New Orleans without Bienville, nor of Bienville without New Or- leans. From the time he came into the coun- try, a mere stripling, midshipman to Iberville, until he left it, a middle-aged man, the city New Orleans 41 7 upon the Mississippi was the star by which he guided all his hopes and ambitions, all his co- lonial ventures. For eighteen years, during which the seat of government was shifted from Biloxi to Mobile and from Mobile back again to Biloxi, throuofh changres of kine and min- istry, and through all the personal political vi- cissitudes of an official dependant of those troublous times, he never ceased to urge upon the home authorities the founding of the city, all the while setting aside with unwearied pa- tience the baffling objections against it in his own council-boards. His opportunity came at last, in 171S, when Louisiana was made over by contract to John Law and the Company of the West ; then, as Governor, lie had full authority to act with men •and money at his disposal. He himself brought his axemen to the spot, saw the land cleared and laid off in lots, according to the map pre- pared by the royal engineers. A handsome little city it was to be according to this map ; with fair, square sides, straight streets ; with a place d' amies, parish church, cemetery, bar- racks ; all complete, even to the naming of the streets — Chartres, Conde, Royal, Bour- bon, Dauphine, Burgundy, Conti, St. Louis, 41^^ New Orleans Toulouse, St. Peter, Orleans, St. Anne. No nicknames were to be allowed here to chance and illiteracy, no plebeian " Broads," " Mains," "Highs" — a right royal little city it was de- signed to be from the first, and one worthy its princely godfather, Law's patron, the Duke of Orleans. Bienville himself piloted the first royal vessel of provisions and immigrants through the mouth of the river, and made the first landing at the levee bank, crowded to-day with commerce and shipping. Finally, in 1723, Bienville removed thither all the government offices and stores, and made New Orleans the capital of the colony. In a year, the city was in full tide of progress, and attaining its majority as a city among the oldest cities of the continent. History and romance carry on the chronicle of its life, for it is a place whose history has be- come romance, romance history, in our literature. The neat little square checker-board prepared by Bienville's engineers, has grown out of all regularity of proportion ; unwieldy and awk- ward enough it is now upon paper, with its streets that vainly strive to run straight, as *they follow the bend of the river, or " Crescent " 420 New Orleans as it is called. But the first map still repre- sents the centre, the heart of the city, the source of its tradition and sentiment. And to the children of the city — or, we should say, the descendants of the children of the first- born of the cit)-, there has been no change in this "mother" spot, save that of harmoni- ous growth and age ; — at least so they think in tender reverence as they saunter through the old thoroughfares with the high-sounding names. The place d' amies has become Jackson Square ; the public market, the French market ; the parish church, the Cathedral ; the Ursu- lines Convent, the Archbishopric ; the cem- etery is now the old St. Louis — beyond Rampart Street, instead of outside the Ram- parts, as it used to be called. The vieu carve — as the original city is affectionately called — has suffered its share of the vicis- situdes of cities. More than once, tornadoes and fires have swept whole quarters of it bare of dwellings. Epidemics of yellow fever — then as now said to be brought in from Havana — decimated the inhabitants at recurrent inter- vals; while the river ever and anon rose up and overflowed its banks, producing a steady crop of New Orleans 421 domestic fevers. But the gay-hearted inhab- itants — then, even as now — seemed to draw from their misfortunes only zest for greater energy of work and greater pleasure in life. THE URSULINES CONVENT. Every ship that arrived brought accessions to the population — accessions, not immigrants, and therefore reckoned by quality, not quan- tity. Gay sprigs of the nobility were sent out to " la Nouvelle Orleans" to mend their morals ; thrifty ones, to mend their fortunes ; ambitious sons of the bourgeoisie came seeking opportu- nity for acquiring landed estate ; old officers re- mained when their terms of service expired; 422 New Orleans new officers willingly grew into old ones in a place so near akin in society and elegance to Paris. For Paris was the arbiter and model of New Orleans, and never had the great city by the Seine an apter pupil than the little cit\- by the Mississippi. Social elegance and pleasure reached its standard height under the administration of the Marquis de Vaudreuil — " le grand Mar- quis," as he was called. His entertainments, banquets, balls, theatrical performances, his manners, dress, conversation, his etiquette, civil and military, furnished the code which, in a way, still governs social practice in the city. When, in 1763, France, by the Treaty of Paris, signed away all her possessions east of the Mississippi to England, she yet retained her grasp on the jugular vein of the North Anier- ican continent by reserving the Island of Or- leans, as it was denominated — that is, the mouth of the Mississippi. And now the city, by right and title the sole French metropolis of North America, made so rapid and so great a stride forward in wealth, population, and commercial activity, that even its easy-going, pleasure- loving citizens beofan to feel the exhilaratin <0 * _i ^ D Lll < I 1- O ^ 1- UJ rH-- h'r- ^ 43^ Vicksburg During the Spanish possession and control of the lower Mississippi River, serious protests and diplomatic representations had been made to Spain against the onerous exactions and tributes which she imposed on commerce from the upper valley and imports through New Or- leans. To haul the tobacco, wheat, corn, pork and other bulky products of the region across the mountains over dirt roads to Baltimore, the nearest seaport and market, was hardly possible. The Mississippi River was the quick and easy highway to New Orleans and tide-water. Spain was under treaty obligation to allow free navi- gation of the Mississippi, and to deal liberally at New Orleans with commerce from the up- per valley, but she shamefully set at nought her obligations, until, in sheer exasperation, the people of Kentucky and Tennessee were on the point of fitting out a military force with which to open the river to free navigation and commerce and to drive Spain from New Or- leans. The Federal Government rose to the emergency, and Spain, obliged to choose be- tween war or cession, concluded in 1 795 a treaty of cession, by which she surrendered the territory in question and agreed to retire within six months after ratification of the treaty. Vicksburg 437 Georgia, claiming that her colonial limits by the charter of 1735 extended by parallel lines westward to the Mississippi River, in 1785 organized in southwest Mississippi a county called Bourbon, and appointed justices of the peace, who, however, never attempted to exer- cise their functions. In 1795, the year the treaty was made with Spain, Georgia sold to four of the speculation land companies enor- mous acreages of land in what is now Ala- bama and Mississippi. The first relief, permanent and secure, from all the discouragements to emigration was furnished when the Congress of the United States, in 1798, organized a territorial gov- ernment for Mississippi and applied to it all the benefits, advantages and privileges of the Ordinance of 1787 for the government of the territory northwest of the river Ohio, except the clause of the sixth article, which prohibited slavery. Georgia in turn promptly yielded up her territorial and political claims to the United States for pecuniary and other con- siderations. From the date of organized authority, popu- lation rapidly poured in. The Bayou, Pearl and the Big Black ceased to be the outer 43^ Vicksburo^ & confines of the new settlers. They spread rap- idly over all the lands which the Indians had ceded. As settlements were carried east of the Walnut Hills a town at that point became a necessity for trade. A town was laid off on the plantations of William Vick and John Lane into blocks or squares by parallel streets north and south, east and west. The building- of a town on the bluff at the southern extrem- ity of the delta and of easy access to the up- lands eastward was a natural response to the needs of commerce. Its growth and develop- ment have kept pace with the increase of agricultural production of the region tributary to it. The Vicksburg of to-day is specially adapted to the manufacture of cotton, lumber and metals into finished goods. Raw material is abundant and available. Transportation by water and rail to home and foreiofn markets is adequate to meet the largest demands. When the Isthmian Canal shall have been con- structed, the ports on the Gulf will be nearer the Orient than the ports on the Atlantic, and unusual impulse will be given to manufactures and agriculture. Large plants for the utilization of cotton seed are in full operation at Vicksburg ; match Vicksburg 439 and furniture factories are actively at work. Other enterprises are slowly building up, and the natural and economic advantages of the city for manufactures are becoming more ap- parent. The public buildings of Vicksburg — Court- House, Post Office, churches, schoolhouses, and hotels — are typical and creditable. The Court- House, situated on one of the highest emi- nences, towers above the surrounding buildings and is pleasing to the eye from every point of view. The tradition is that it was planned and designed by a slave belonging to the contractor who built it. The United States buildine is handsome and commodious. The city abounds in churches. It is provided with an excellent system of waterworks and electric street-railway service. The system recently adopted of free education for both races has from time to time been so enlarged as to its curriculum of studies and improved as to its methods, that it has superseded private schools, except an educational establishment for both sexes under the control of the Roman Catholic Church. Vicksbure has been the home of several of the State's ablest men, who have proved large 440 Vicksburg factors in making history. S. S. Prentiss was an orator of national reputation and an eminent lawyer. Others worthy of mention are : Judge W. L. Sharkey, one of the most learned jurists of the Southwest ; Governor John J. Guion ; Governor McNutt ; Walter Brooks; United States Senator George Yerger ; a great lawyer, Joseph Holt, in later life Attorney-General of the United States. Jefferson Davis, President of the Confederate States, Senator in Con- gress and a gallant and distinguished soldier, lived the greater part of his life in Warren County, a few miles south of the city. We now come to that period in the history of Vicksburg, when, during the Civil War, for a time the even current of commercial and business life gave place to a series of events, perhaps the most notable and far-reaching in influence on the shiftinor fortunes and results of the o;reat conflict. The bluffs at Vicksburor are of pre-eminent importance as a strategic point to the complete control of the great river which almost divides the continent from south to north, penetrates the upper valley nearly to the great chain of lakes, and with its af^uents alTords about fifteen thousand miles of navigation. No object contributing to the Vicksburg 44 1 final issue of the war could have presented itself to the great leaders on both sides of the conflict as of more urgent need than the posses- sion and control of the Mississippi. In 1862, movements were begun against the fortifica- tions which the Confederates had placed on the Cumberland and Tennessee and the upper Mississippi. So important and urgent did this appear as a necessary means to a speedy and successful close of the war that operations were begun very early to drive the Confederates from the river, and were conducted both from above and from its mouth. The close of the year 1862 found the Federal naval and military forces dominating the river from the north as far south as Vicksburg, and from the south as far north as Port Hudson. A campaign, sup- ported by the fleet, was undertaken on the east side of the river. The Federal forces moved from the Yazoo River along the banks of the Chickasaw Bayou with a view of gaining a foothold on the bluffs above the city. A battle, stubbornly contested, was fought, and resulted in the defeat and repulse of the Union forces. It demonstrated the impracticability of capturing the city by attacking the army entrenched on the bluffs. 442 Vicksburg The following- year a much larger army was convoyed down the river by a Heet of gunboats, and landed at Milliken's bend, sixteen or seventeen miles above the city, on the west bank of the river. A tentative and unsuc- cessful effort \\' as made by General Grant to di- vert the river across the pe- ninsula by cut- tinor a canal, so as to pass his vessels of war and trans- ports below out of reach of the batteries on the bluffs. Meantime a furious and incessant cannonade was kept up between the gunboats and shore batteries. Finally a large part of PORTRAIT OF GENERAL U. S. GRANT. Vicksburg 443 his fleet, under cover of the darkness of night, succeeded in passing the batteries, with the loss of one vessel and serious damage to others. This movement on the water, followed by the marching of the army down the west bank, unmistakably indicated to General Pemberton, Confederate commandant, the plan and pur- pose of the campaign. He promptly withdrew the most of his army from the breastworks, crossed the Big Black River, and so disposed his men as to retard or arrest altogether the march of General Grant. General Pember- ton's plan was to form a junction with General Johnston, who was on his way to take part in the defence of Vicksburg. General Grant succeeded in interposing his army between Johnston and Pemberton, gave battle to John- ston at Jackson, and obliged him to fall back northward to Canton. Heavy and obstinate battles were fought at Baker's Creek, Champion Hills and at Big Black. Pemberton, failing tO' unite forces with Johnston, deemed it prudent to recross the Big Black, return and re-occupy his trenches round the city. General Grant followed and closely invested the Confeder- ate works, placing his army behind breast- works and in trenches. Two or three gallant. 444 Vicksburg assaults made on the Confederate works were met with determined courage and repulsed with great loss of life. The control of the riv^er by the gunboats, above and below, made the reception of reinforcements or supplies from the west or from any source b)- water, im- possible. The land forces spread around the fortifications cut off succor from the south and east, so that it became a mere question of time, before starvation would compel a surrender without more waste of life in hazardous and bloody assaults. When Pemberton marched to the Big Black, the supply of food in the city was low ; on his return his army was placed on short rations. Constant service on the fortifications, inadequate food supply and midsummer heat developed a great deal of sickness, so that when the surrender was made on the 4th of July, after a siege of forty days, provisions were about exhausted, and one third or more of the garrison were on the sick-list, unfit for military duty. It is perhaps not out of place to say that in no campaign of the Civil War was there higher courage or greater devotion to soldierly duty displayed than here, by both participants. The events of the siege derive their true significance from the circumstance MAJ. CtwrCRANT'S Hbo'RS -^^uwftQ me Stt6t t ftozRAL won/ts ^ * \ ( \ SIEGE CF VICKSBURQ. 445 44^ Vicksburg that they constituted the fatal blow which broke the Confederate power and hastened the war to its end. The National Cemetery on the bluffs, just north of the corporate limits of the city, is, taken all in all, perhaps the most attractive patriotic cemetery in the South. The visitor to the city always seeks it first. Nature has given to it sublimity ; art and landscape-engi- neering have imparted all the freshness and loveliness that flower and shrub and tree can give. Here rest sixteen thousand soldiers who lost their lives in the service of their country in and around Vicksburg. Such care and ven- eration for those who fell under the national flag while a grateful tribute to valor and hero- ism serve at the same time to keep ever fresh and active sentiments of martial valor and a warmer pride in all that adds glory to the country and illustrates its military prowess. Nothing could more strongly and nobly testify to the fact that all the issues and con- troversies which culminated in a long and bloody war have been closed and settled and relegated to the past than the measures now in process of execution to convert the trenches and bastions around the city of Vicksburg Vicksburg 447 into a park beautified by all that landscape- engineering and art can do to make the place attractive. That which appeals to-day with so much force to the sensibilities of Americans is not so much the mere transformation of the rugged hills, as that the place so wonderfully transformed is and will ever be a perpetual witness that sectional discords and strifes have disappeared from our national life, and that henceforth the great family of States and Ter- ritories, with their seventy or eighty millions of people, are members and citizens of a com- mon country, protected by the same flag, the emblem of sovereignty to all. KNOXVILLE THE METROPOLIS OF EASTERN TENNESSEE By JOSHUA W. CALDWELL THE beginnings of Knoxville were Scotch- Irish. Its founder was James White, a Scotch-Irishman from North Carohna. Its first place of worship was a Scotch-Irish Pres- byterian Church, wherein the faith of the Cov- enant was preached without mitigation, to the edification and uphfting of the community. The dominant element of its population until after the Civil War was Presbyterian, and it is still strong. The first effort of the white men to possess themselves of any part of Tennessee was in 1 756, when old Fort Loudon was erected about thirty miles west of where Knoxville now stands. Fort Loudon did not long resist the Cherokees. Its short story is one of the most ^' 449 450 Knoxville romantic and one of the most tragic in the early history of the Southwest. Twelve years later, the first permanent set- tlement in Tennessee was made upon the waters of the Watauga in the northeast cor- ner of the State. This little com- munity became, soon afterwards, the Watauga Association, a practically inde- pendent govern- ment, w i t h a written constitu- tion ; indisputa- bly the first of the kind that was formed on this continent, by men of American birth, and inspired by American sentiment. Its leaders were James Robertson, afterwards the founder of Nashville, a typical Scotch-Irish pioneer ; John Sevier, afterwards the first Governor of Tennessee, a man of mixed An- glo-Saxon and Huguenot descent, and of JOHN SEVIER, FIRST GOVERNOR OF TENNESSEE. Knoxville 45 1 extraordinary abilities, who became a resident of Knoxville; and John Carter, presumably descended from the noted Virginia family of that name, many of whose descendants are citizens of Knoxville. About the year 1787, the settlements having extended gradually down the Holston, we find James White living upon the site of Knoxville and owning, then or later, much of the land now covered by the city. If traditionary state- ments are to be trusted, a part at least of the first house erected by James White is still standing, its original sturdy and loopholed logs protected and preserved by a sheathing of boards. The name first given the settlement was " White's Fort." In 1790, North Carolina having ceded her possessions west of the Alleghanies to the United States, the " Territory of the United States South of the River Ohio " was created, and President Washington named as its Gov- ernor his friend William Blount, of North Car- olina. In 1 79 1, Governor Blount decided to make White's Fort, which was by that time called Knoxville in honor of General Henry Knox, the capital of the territory, and the town site was surveyed in part and laid off 452 Knoxville into lots by its owner, James White, in that year. The location is on the north bank of the Holston, four miles south of the junction of the French Broad and Hol- ston rivers, giv- ing to the last stream the name to which it is entitled, without regard to many temporary, inef- fective and inde- fensible changes of river nomen- clature in East Tennessee by legislation. Be- t w e e n two creeks, once clear and vigor- ous, but now defiled and depleted by many civil- ized uses, rises a plateau of about two hundred and fifty acres, of diversified but comparatively level surface. Where this elevation slopes to the river on the southeast, the town made its WILLIAM BLOUNT, GOVERNOR OF SOUTHWEST TERRITORY. Knoxville 453 beginning, and climbed slowly up the hill until it reached the highest point overlooking the river, which was crowned with a blockhouse known as the barracks, where a scanty garrison of regulars was intended to protect the settlers and to overawe the Cherokees. The barracks boasted at least one great gun, which was fired morning and evening with punctuality and impressiveness. The coming of Governor Blount was the beeinninof of the greatness of Knoxville. Blount was a notable man. He had been a silent but respected and not uninfluential member of the convention that framed the Federal Constitution. He was the friend of Washington, and his lineage was most ancient and most honorable, reaching back to the time of William the Conqueror, in whose train, and among the beneficiaries of whose bounty, was one of his ancestors. The family had been settled long, in opulent circumstances and in social and political prominence, in North Carolina. The Governor was a man of education, of fine presence, of graceful and winning manners. and of unfailing, if dignified, urbanity. He was unquestionably the first gentleman as well as the chief magistrate of 454 Knoxvillc the "Territory of the United States South of the River Ohio," although neither honorable lineaees nor orood manners were wanting there. In addition to all this his Excellency was most fortunate in his wife. The praises of the lovely and accomplished Mary Grainger Blount were in the mouths of all men, and even of many women in those days. It was a memorable occasion when the Governor brought his gracious lady from North Caro- lina to Knoxville, and placed her at the head of his court, which was conducted with no little circumstance and dignity. It is said that he imported, likewise, weather- boarding, wherewith he encased the logs of a great house which he had constructed as a home for his wife, and that no sooner had this attractive and expensive transformation been accomplished, than the front yard was con- verted into a flower garden, the first of its kind in the town, and certainly one of the most admired anywhere. In July, 1 79 1, Governor Blount made at Knoxville a treaty with the Cherokees. Nearly fifteen hundred Indians were present, includino- fortv-one chiefs. The Governor had caused to be erected in a conspicuous place on Knoxville 455 a hillside overlooking the river a large tent, wherein he remained withdrawn until all the expected company had assembled. Then the doors of the tent were thrown open and he stood forth, arrayed in splendor, and sur- rounded by the chief civil and military nota- bles of the territory. The resplendency of his Excellency's dress-sword, laced coat and cocked hat are much commented on by histo- rians. Second in splendor of raiment and dignity of deportment to the Governor only, was James Armstrong, known as " Trooper," formerly a dragoon in his Britannic Majesty's service, and versed in the ways of courts. The Annalist of Tennessee characterizes him, for this occasion, as ''arbiter elegantiarumy The Governor stood upon a platform, and one by one in due order the Cherokee chiefs were presented by Mr. Armstrong, while the assem- bled warriors gazed in awe upon the imposing ceremony. A treaty was solemnly entered into, and was speedily broken by both whites and Indians. In 1794, an act of the territorial Legisla- ture was passed, which after reciting the founding, in 1791, of a town named Knox- ville in honor of Major-General Henry Knox, 45^ Knoxville "said town consisting of sixty-four lots, num- bered from one to sixty-four consecutively," enacts in solemn form, that a town be estab- lished on the spot indicated, and names com- missioners for its government. In 1797, fifty-nine more lots with necessary streets were added. In 1799, the town was authorized by law to elect its commissioners, but for two years the act seems to have been ineffec- tive. The commissioners when finally elected entered promptly upon a course of vigor- ous municipal legislation and administration. Among other things a town sergeant was elected, and required to patrol the streets three nights a week, or oftener at his option. Slaughter-pens within the town limits, wooden chimneys, hogs upon the streets, dead or alive, and the firing of guns and pistols within the corporate limits were declared nuisances, pun- ishable by fine, fifty cents being the highest lawful fine. Two of the offences for which this highest fine was prescribed were drunken- ness and Sabbath-breaking. A few years later, presumably under pressure of popular demand, the hog ordinance was repealed, but the pro- vision against wooden chimneys seems to have been rigorously enforced. Knoxville 457 In 1815, the town was empowered to elect a Mayor, and Thomas Emmerson, afterwards a Judge of the Supreme Court of the State, became the first Mayor. That the name Knoxville had been adopted before November 5, 1 791, is made certain by the fact that on that day appeared the initial number of the Knoxville Gazette, the first newspaper published within the bounds of Tennessee. Its publisher was one George Roulstone, a native of New England, whose Yankee enterprise appeared in the fact that while the paper from the first was called the Knoxville Gazette, it was for some time pub- lished at Rogersville, an older town, seventy miles east of Knoxville. It is supposed that the publisher was prevented by difficulties of transportation from moving his press to Knox- ville. The Gazette was a three-column paper of four pages. It had not many advertise- ments and very little local news, but was filled with accounts of the French Revolution and of European affairs in general. It gave much space to questions of ethics, and reprinted many political and patriotic speeches. The first and only Legislature of the Terri- tory met at Knoxville in February, 1794. 45^ Knoxville Among- the acts passed was one establishing a college near Knoxville, to be called Blount College, in honor of the Governor, This it is believed was the first strictly non-sectarian in- stitution of higher learning established in the United States. It was afterwards successively named East Tennessee College, East Tennes- see University, and the University of Ten- nessee, under which last name it now exists and flourishes. It is unsurpassed among Southern institutions of learning for its thor- oughness, and in respect of its beautiful situa- tion is almost un equaled in the whole country. The treaty made by Governor Blount in 1 79 1 bound the whites to refrain from en- croachments on the Indian lands, and pledged the Indians to desist from hostilities. The whites did not all act in good faith, while the Indians, with characteristic treachery, failed from the outset to regard the treaty. At first the Cherokees contented themselves with oc- casional outrages, but in the year i 793 it was known that the whole nation was in arms. The Indians were emboldened by the avow- edly pacific policy of the Federal Government. Governor Blount had received specific Instruc- tions to act only on the defensive. Arson and Knoxville 459 murder were of daily occurrence and went un- punished. It was with genuine relief, there- fore, that the whites received news, late in the summer of 1 793, that the Indians had, in effect, declared war. On the night of the 24th of UNIVERSITY OF TENNESSEE. September, i 793, a body of more than a thou- sand warriors crossed the Tennessee River some twenty-five miles below Knoxville and marched in the direction of that place. Seven hundred of this invading force were Creeks and the remainder Cherokees, and, strangely enouo-h, one hundred of the Creeks were 460 Knoxville mounted. It was the intention to reach and to attack Knoxville at daylight, but they found difficulty in crossing the river, and were fur- ther delayed by a consultation among the leaders upon an interesting question. This was whether they should kill all the people of Knoxville, or only the men. The discussion of this nice question of casuistry proved so attractive, or provoked so many differences, that daylight seems to have found it still unsettled. At sunrise on the 25th the Indians heard the mornintr crun at the barracks at Knox- ville and concluded that it was an alarm signal. Halting near Cavet's blockhouse, eight miles from the village, they entertained themselves by decoying and butchering the in- mates. Their cominof had been made known on the 24th to the people of Knoxville, who pre- pared with courage and energy to resist them. The total fiehtine strencrth of the whites was forty men. It was determined to waylay the In- dians, and after firing upon them to retreat to the barracks. Accordingly, leaving two old men with the women and children, the remaining thirty-eight spent the night concealed on a wooded ridge west of the town, fearlessly await- Knoxville 461 Ing a foe outnumbering them more than twenty to one. Early on the morning of the 25th, however, a messenger brought the news that the Indians had lost heart after the affair at Cavet's and were in full retreat. In this little band of defenders was the Rev. Samuel Carrick, a Presbyterian minister, after- wards the first President of Blount College, of whose conduct on this occasion there is a pleas- ing and honorable tradition. It is said that when news of the invasion came he was prepar- ing to bury his wife, who had just died, but, putting aside his grief, and leaving her beloved remains to be buried by the women of the neighborhood, he seized his rifle and hastened to take his post at the front. A month later the Tennessee militia, led by Sevier, were in the heart of the Indian coun- try, and the battle of Etowah, on the i 7th of October, 1 793, ended the campaign and cowed the savages. From this time until the Civil War, Knox- ville was outside the current of important pub- lic events. From 1792 to 1796, it was the capital of the " Territory South of the River Ohio" ; from 1796 to 181 1, except for a little while in 1807, it was the capital of Tennessee. 4^2 Knoxville About this time tiie capital of the State be- came peripatetic, on account of the westward trend of population. As late as 1834, we find a member of the Constitutional Convention of that year introducing a resolution for the as- certainment of the "centre of gravity" of the State, with a view to the permanent location of the capital upon it. It will be interesting to know that the official to whom the question was referred reported the centre of gravity to be identical with the geographical centre. The capital was finally fixed at Nashville, which is not on the centre of gravity, but is otherwise fully entitled to the honor. Meanwhile, in 1 81 7, the capital returned for a brief stay at Knoxville, and then finally departed westward. The Constitutional Convention of i 796 met at Knoxville in January of that year with Wil- liam Blount as President, and promulgated the first Constitution of Tennessee. John Sevier was the first Governor and took up his abode at Knoxville. He besfan to build a largfe brick house, but hospitality and every form of liber- ality exhausted his means and he removed to the country before the first story of the house had been constructed. The house was com- pleted by another owner and was designed Knoxville 463 to overlook the town from a distance. It now stands with its back and one side to intersecting modern streets, and its front to the side yard. Sevier was for eleven years Governor, and then was elected to Congress. He died in 18 15 while on a journey to the Creek nation as Commissioner of the United States. His remains reposed in Alabama until 1889, when they were disinterred, brought to Knoxville, and deposited in the Court-House yard, where their final resting-place is marked by a graceful shaft of native white marble. Sevier, always the popular hero of Tennessee, is the most brilliant figure in the pioneer history of the Southwest. Blount was one of the first Senators from Tennessee, His impeachment as Senator upon charges which to this day no man fully understands and which to the Western people seem to have imported no turpitude, did not affect his standing in Tennessee. He is buried in Knoxville in the old First Presbyterian churchyard. Within a few feet of his grave is the tomb of Hugh Lawson White, son of James White, " the founder," and known as the " American Cato." He was a Judge of the Supreme Court 464 Knoxville of Tennessee, many years a member of the United States Senate, and for a time its Presi- dent. He was long the intimate friend of An- drew Jackson, but was aUenated by Jackson's imperious methods, and became a candidate for the Presi- dency of the United States against Jack- son's poHtical heir, Martin Van Buren, He was defeated, but carried his own and two other Southern States. He was one of the stronofest. purest and most patriotic of American states- men, and was a conspicuous figure in the Sen- ate even in the days of Webster, Calhoun, Clay and Benton. For fifteen years (from 181 2 to 1827) he was President of the Bank of Ten- nessee, located at Knoxville, which was almost the only bank in the South that weathered the HUGH L. WHITE. Knoxville 465 financial storms which followed the War of 1812. On the western limit of the town stands an old weather-boarded log house, wherein tradi- tion declares that George Farragut, the father of the Admiral, once lived. The county rec- ords show that , George Farra- ; ofut owned the ! ground on which the house is situ- ated. The great Admiral certain- ly was born in Knox county at L o w's Ferry near Campbell's Station, where, on the 15th of May, 1900, Ad- miral Dewey unveiled a monument, which was erected by the Daughters of the American Revolution to his illustrious predecessor. Old deeds to George Farragut sometimes call him " Fairregret," but he signs himself Farragut. Sam Houston was reared near Knoxville, and there are many stories of his handsome ADMIRAL FARRAGUT. 466 Knoxvillc presence, winning manners, great abilities and abounding debts. Full of interest to strangers is a frame dwelling in East Knoxville, standing flush with the sidewalk, and entered by high steps that encroach upon the pavement. This was the home of William G. Brownlow, known as the " Fighting Parson," one of the most remark- able men in the history of Tennessee. He was a Methodist minister, an editor with a eift of invective that has never been surpassed, an ardent and fearless Unionist, the Recon- struction Governor of Tennessee, and finally United States Senator. Brownlow was a man of the Andrew Jackson type. The Southwest, and especially Tennessee, gave to public life in the first half of this century a class of men with distinctive physical, intellectual and moral qualities. Physically, they were tall, angular, rawboned ; intellectually they were alert, posi- tive and often narrow ; they were honest and sincerely patriotic, but vindictive and unrelent- ing, the truest of friends, the most aggressive and dangerous of foes. Jackson, Brownlow and Isham G. Harris were men of this kind ; Harris seemingly the last of them. In theological and political controversy, in ^noxville 467 both of which he dehghted, Brownlow neither sought nor gave quarter, and his fame as a po- lemic went through the Southwest long before the Civil War. Soon after Tennessee seceded he was imprisoned, and then released and sent North, where he made many characteristic speeches, and wrote a book into which he gathered all the bitterness of his hatred of seces- sion and of the secessionists. When the Feder- al authority was re-established in Tennessee, it was supported, and its local policy mainly directed, by the loyalists of East Tennessee, among whom Brownlow was most prominent in State af- fairs, and in national affairs Horace Maynard and Andrew Johnson. The intensity and reso- lution of Brownlow's nature were such that he WILLIAM Q. BROWNLOW, THE "FIGHTING PARSON." 468 Knoxville sometimes followed the logic of his hatred of secession to extreme ends, so that by the Southern element in the State he was hated as the Irish Catholics hated Cromwell. But his conduct, after all, was in keeping with the spirit of the times, and not a little of the censure that fell upon him was unjust. In private affairs, while always forcible and positive, he was a kindly, just and generous man, of pure life and of correct principles. Horace Maynard, a native of Massachusetts and a graduate of Amherst, came to Knoxville in 1837 and became Professor of Mathematics in the University. Later, he was for twelve years a member of Congress, then Attorney- General of the State, Minister to Turkey and Postmaster-General. His eminent abilities and his pure character entitle him to special mention and to the higrhest commendation. His son. Commander Washburn Maynard, dis- tinguished himself in the late Spanish War. Another noteworthy citizen of Knoxville was Thomas A. R. Nelson, whose speech in Congress against secession was praised by the London Times in the hiofhest terms. Mr. Nel- son was of the counsel for Andrew Johnson in the impeachment trial, and was afterwards a Knoxville 469 Judge of the Supreme Court of the State. He was one of the best lawyers and one of the most eloquent and accomplished public speak- ers the State has produced. When the Civil War broke out, East Ten- nessee, not being a slaveholding section, and being the Whig stronghold, was overwhelm- ingly for the Union. The Union leaders were Johnson, Maynard, Brownlow and many others of almost equal ability. Knoxville was the capital of East Tennessee. It had grown principally by the increase of the original pop- ulation, and the kinships of its people, espe- cially of the more prominent families, were exceptionally extensive and intricate. A ma- jority of these well-to-do people went with the South, but a large minority was lo)al, and the common people, as a rule, held to the Union. The first encounter of hostile forces at Knoxville was on the 20th of June, 1863, when Colonel Saunders with a force of fifteen hundred Federal soldiers on a raid through East Tennessee, halted in front of the town. A brief artillery duel ensued, in the course of which Captain Pleasant McClungof Knoxville, a conspicuously gallant Confederate officer, was 470 Knoxville killed. After an hour's firing Saunders re- sumed his march without enterinj^ Knoxville. Toward the end of August, 1863, the Con- federates evacuated the city, never to re-enter it, and on the 2d of September, General Burnside entered and occupied it. The next event of importance was the siege. It will be remembered that after his retreat from Gettys- burg, General Lee detached Longstreet's corps from his army and sent it south to aid Gen- eral Bragg. Longstreet remained with Bragg until November 4th, when he set out to rejoin Lee, marching overland through East Tennes- see and western Vircfinia This movement was a serious menace to General Burnside, who had at Knoxville and in its vicinity about twelve thousand men to oppose to Longstreet's twenty thousand. Longstreet's approach to Knoxville, however, was so de- liberate as to allow Burnside time to con- centrate his forces and to fortify himself hastily but effectively. On the 20th of November, the town was invested, but not thoroughly. The Confederate General was not aware apparently that the Holston and French Broad rivers came together four miles above Knoxville, and contented himself with Knoxville 47^ blockading the Holston above the junction, leaving open the French Broad, by means of which supplies were constantly conveyed to the besieged. On the 29th of November, at daylight, the Confederates assaulted Fort Saunders, on the west of the town, an almost im- pregnable point in its outer defences. The attacking force consisted of three brigades of Mc Law's division. The attack was delivered upon the northwest angle of the fort, probably its strongest point. It was necessary for the storming party, after climbing a high hill, to pass a difficult abattis, and to make its way through a labyrinth of telegraph wires stretched between the stumps of the original forest trees which had been felled. Having overcome these obstacles, a deep ditch was reached, beyond which rose the parapet of the fort to the height of more than twenty feet. When the broken, disordered and bleeding mass of Confederates reached the verge of the ditch there was no hesitation. In the face of a deadly musket fire and of a continuous dis- charge of hand grenades, they hurled them- selves into the ditch and scrambled upon hands and knees up the steep and slippery 472 Knoxville embankment. Three times they succeeded in planting their battle-flags upon the parapet, and once they entered the fort, but only to be killed or captured after a desperate struggle. The assault failed. Three hundred Confeder- ates were captured, and from five to seven hundred dead and wounded lay before the abattis, among the broken wires and in the ditch. This attack upon Fort Saunders was one of the most gallant and desperate encounters of the whole M'ar, and if it had occurred upon a more conspicuous field would have been ranked with Pickett's charge at Gettysburg. General Longstreet now concluded to molest Burnside no more, and leisurely retired to Vir- ginia. Grant sent twenty thousand men to re- inforce Burnside, but Longstreet had already withdrawn. Immediately after the war Knoxville began to increase rapidly in population. The loyalty of East Tennessee won much favor for it at the North, and many desirable additions to the population of Knoxville came from that section. It is probable that no city in the South con- tains so large a proportion of citizens of 474 Knoxville Northern and Western birth. Of foreij^n- born citizens there are comparatively few, the tides of immigration having flowed always north of Mason and Dixon's line. Knox- ville is therefore a thoroughly American city, of forty thousand population, free from sec- tional sentiment, progressive, but withal con- servative, and proud of its deserved reputation as a center of education and of culture. Its free schools, handsomely and commodi- ously housed, are most liberally supported, while the State University is the pride of the intelligent people of Tennessee. The State Deaf and Dumb School and a branch of the Asylum for the Insane are located there, and Knoxville College for the education of negroes is one of the best of its kind. Knoxville contributed a handsome building to the " White City " of the Nashville Centen- nial, and afterwards the women of the city se- cured the removal of the building to Knoxville, where, at a point of vantage, it was re-erected and dedicated to the cause of woman's advance- ment and to all the Muses. Knoxville is an old town as things go in America, yet much of it is new. Its population has increased tenfold within thirty-five years. Knoxville 475 It is therefore, in the main, modern m con- struction. In proportion to population it has by far the largest wholesale trade among the Southern cities. It enjoys a high degree o prosperity. It is the industrial, commercial and educational center of East Tennessee, and its future is full of promise. NASHVILLE "THE ADVANCE-GUARD OF WESTERN CIV- ILIZATION." By gates p. THRUSTON THE beautiful site upon which the city of Nashville stands must have been famous in prehistoric times. Its natural salt spring near the bank of the Cumberland River was a noted resort of the Indian and buffalo. Some years ago, the huge bones of a mastodon were exhumed from the alluvial deposit upon its margin. Near the flowing spring was an ancient cemetery of the long-vanished Stone Grave race, the mound-builders, of Tennessee, and upon the opposite bank of the river and in the adjacent valleys have been found not less than ten thousand rude stone cists con- taining their mortuary remains. These inter- esting memorials have yielded a vast store of archaeological treasures, illustrating their arts 477 478 Nashville and industries and telling a pathetic story of aboriginal life in the valley of the Cumber- land. A race of Village Indians, probably akin to the Pueblo Builders or Village Indians of New Mexico and Arizona, once made their home in Middle Tennessee and the adjacent territory. These industrious pottery makers and mound builders must have dwelt for several centuries in this lovely Garden of Eden. In an evil hour, unhappily, some destroyer came, perhaps the ancestors of the savage and vindictive Mohawk or Iroquois Indians of the north, and devastated their towns and homes and scattered or exterminated the humble and less warlike Villagers. The first white hunters and pioneers discovered in the shad- owy forest only their strange and mysterious mounds, and the ancient lines of earthworks that had formed their forts. For perhaps a hundred years or more before the advent of the white man, the beautiful val- ley of the Cumberland seems to have been a wilderness uninhabited save by the wild animals of the forest. As early as 1714, M. Charleville, a French trader, came, and tarried for a time near the Nashville 479 salt spring, known thereafter as the French Lick. In 1775, Timothy De Monbreun, a native of France, visited the spring, and later settled near the site of Nashville. Occasion- ally adventurous hunters and trappers passed down the valley. In 1778, a man of singular courage and gigantic stature named Spencer came with a party from Kentucky in search of homes and fortune, and settled near Bledsoe's Lick, north of the Cumberland. They planted a small field of corn. Spencer's companions soon became discouraged and returned to Kentucky, but this self-reliant hunter, undis- mayed by the solitude of the wilderness and the fear of the crafty Cherokee, refused to leave his new home in the lonely forest, and passed the long winter there, with only a great hollow sycamore tree as a shelter. The story of the founding of Nashville is full of heroic incidents. It reads like a ro- mance. About ten years had elapsed since the stout-hearted pioneers of Virginia and the Carolinas had pushed their way westward through the blue ridges of the AUeghanies, and planted an independent colony upon the banks of the Watauga River. Its master spirits, John Sevier, James Robertson and Isaac and 48o Nashville Evan Shelby would have been men of mark in any community. From this parent hive, already grown into a strong and prosperous settlement, a new colony of two hundred and more hardy riflemen and pioneers, in the fall of 1779, ^^t out upon a far journey to the west, under the leadership of James Robertson. Allured by the wonderful stories of the beauty and fertility of the Cumberland Val- ley, they determined to seek there new homes. It was an heroic venture, unsurpassed in the history of the march of western civili- zation. No military force blazed a way for them. High mountain ranges, deep and un- known rivers, hundreds of miles of dense forest, lay before them. The dread of the crafty savage, upon whose hunting-grounds they were encroaching, did not deter them. Bidding farewell to their friends at Wataucra they struck out upon the wilderness trail of Daniel Boone for the Far West. They passed through the gap in the Cumberland Moun- tains, across the headwaters of the Cumber- land River, and still westward across the rivers and valleys of Central and Southern Kentucky, until, after weary weeks of marching, through Nashville 481 storm and snow and ice, they finally reached the old French Lick on Christmas Day, 1779. JAMES ROBERTSON. The wives and families of this advance- guard of the frontier, unable to endure the hardships of the march, were sent in boats and 482 Nashville canoes down the Holston and Tennessee riv- ers. Captain John Donelson was in command, a man of rare courage and judgment. His handsome young daughter, Rachel, one of the voyagers, afterwards became mistress of the White House as the wife of President Jackson. They left Fort Patrick Henry on the Hol- ston River, December 27, 1779. The distance by water around the long, winding circuit of the Holston, the Tennessee, the Ohio and the Cumberland up to the Cumberland Bluffs was more than a thousand miles. Captain Donel- son's interesting journal, kept during the four- months' journey and still preserved among the treasures of the Tennessee Historical Soci- ety, recounts in plain and modest words a story of heroism, of thrilling adventures, of singular pathos, scarcely equaled in the annals of our American frontier. It was a midwinter journey. The voyagers were attacked by the savage Chickamauga Indians. Their frail boats were swept through unknown rapids and floods. They had to force their way up the Ohio and Cumberland rivers. Many of the party perished, some were shot down by the Indians, others were wounded and ill; but Nashville 483 with thankful hearts the survivors finally reached their anxious friends at the " Big Salt Lick " on the Cumberland, April 24, 1780. It was a joyful meeting, a reunion of happy families, long remembered in the settlement. THE FIRST RESIDENCE OF ANDREW JACKSON. The commanding bluff on the south side of the river seemed an ideal home for the new colony, united, hopeful and enthusiastic. The rich valley and the winding river added beauty to the landscape. Ranges of noble and picturesque hills, not far distant, sur- rounded the site. The land was fertile. Springs of pure water abounded, and here in 4^4 Nashville the far western wilderness was planted the new germ of civilization, which in after years was to grow and blossom into rich fruition. In honor of General Nash, of North Carolina, a dis- tinguished officer of the Revolution, the vil- lage was christened Nashboroueh. And now the cheery sound of the woodman's axe rancr out in the forest. Cabins were built. The land was cleared and crops were planted. Log forts were erected, planned after the good model of the fort at Watauo^a that had saved the precious lives of the little parent colony from the assaults of the Cherokees. A regiment of riflemen was formed, with James Robertson as Colonel and John Donel- son as Lieutenant-Colonel. An independent civil orovernment was orranized and established. o o This isolated little settlement was rightly called by James Robertson " The advance-guard of western civilization." It was six or seven hun- dred miles from the nearest established gov- ernment. It was over three hundred miles from the Watauga, and nearly as far from the Kentucky settlements, yet law, order and jus- tice prevailed. The carefully drawn articles of the compact under which the local civil government was Nashville 485 org-anized, indicate the high character of its citizens. They bore the impress of the true Anglo-Saxon spirit, — the love of order and equity. They required strict obedience to the will of the majority. Invoking the blessing of Divine Providence, the compact set up in the wilderness a temple of justice that secured ample legal pro- ;j^-^^ - ,^ tection to the citizen and the stranger, until the lawful juris- diction of the parent State of North Carolina ' . „-^^--'- could be extend- ed over the new port ridley, an old nashville territory. blockhouse. James Robertson, the well-recognized leader of the settlement, was not blessed with the genius and natural gifts of John Sevier, the soldier and statesman of the eastern section, but he was a born ruler and organizer, a man full of resources, of lofty personal character and purposes. Well might he be called the founder and father of Nashville. His life is an epitome of the early history of Middle Tennessee. fi^?^^*.-» 486 Nashville Dr. Ramsey, the historian of Tennessee, tells us that when the treaty was made with the Indians at Watauga, giving^ the whites the right to possess the rich hunting-grounds of Middle Tennessee and Kentucky, the aged Indian chief Oconostota took Daniel Boone by the hand, and remarked with significant earnestness : " Brother, we have given you a fine land, but I believe you will have much trouble in settling it." How prophetic were these words ! The brave little colony upon the bluffs at Nashborough, with settlements stretching for many miles along the valley of the Cumberland, was destined to pass through years of peril and anxiety. The young war- riors of the Cherokees and Creeks were not willing to confirm the surrender of their favor- ite hunting-grounds to the insatiate and land- hungry paleface. Their footprints were soon discovered in the forest. The settlers were ambushed near their homes, and were shot down by unseen foes as they drank at the springs. Horses and cattle were stampeded and stolen. The strong-est forts were attacked. At times the dangers and discouragements were so great that it seemed as if this vanguard settlement, with all its hopes and promises, Nashville 487 must be abandoned. A number of the settlers yielded to their fears, and returned with their families to Kentucky or to their old homes in the East. In those dark days the exalted character of James Robertson stood out in noble relief. He resolutely stemmed the tide of apprehension. He would not discuss a retreat. He was the very life and mainstay of the settlement. " These rich and beautiful lands," Robertson said, " were not designed to be given up to savages and wild beasts. The God of Creation and Providence has nobler purposes in view." " Each one should do what seems to him his duty. As for myself, my station is here, and here I shall stay if every man of you deserts." Solitary and alone, and apparently unmind- ful of danger, Robertson made long journeys through the forest to confer with the Chero- kee chiefs in the interest of peace. When the ammunition at the forts was exhausted, and an attack was threatened, he set out in midwinter upon a lonely trail through the wil- derness for the Kentucky settlements, and never rested until he had returned to Free- land Station with an ample supply. His return was none too soon. That very 488 Nashville nieht, at the dead hour of midniLrht, a band of savag^e Chickasaws attacked Freeland Station. The moon was shining brightly, but the)- crept up noiselessly through the shadows to the very gates of the fort. They finally unlocked its bars and were pushing through the opening, when the quick ear of Robertson, who was sleeping near by, caught the sound of danger. He shouted a cry of alarm. A shot from his rifle rangf out on the still niofht air. His com- rades within the fort grasped their guns and fired from every cabin door. It was a sharp contest, but the Indians were finally routed and driven from the fort. In the early spring they attacked the station at Nashborout^h in almost overvvhelmino- num- bers. They forced their way nearly to the gates of the old fort, located near the present corner of Market and Church streets, inter- cepting the retreat of many of the settlers. There was a desperate struggle for possession of the fort. At an opportune moment, the pack of powerful watch-dogs and hounds in the fort was turned loose, attacked the In- dians fiercely, and greatly aided in repelling the onslaught. Both sides lost heavily, but the fort and settlement were saved. Nashville 489 For lone and anxious years the settlements upon the Cumberland River were in constant warfare and danger. There was no period of peace or repose, yet year by year the restless march of the western pioneers and " movers " continued. The colony grew in strength and numbers, and at the end of the first decade of its history, several thousand thrifty and prosperous settlers occupied the fertile terri- tory along the valley. The village of N ashborough had become the ambitious town of Nashville. North Carolina had taken the settlements under her motherly protection. A court-house and prison had been erected. Davidson Academy, that later grew into Nashville University, had been chartered and endowed. In 1788, An- drew Jackson, a young lawyer unknown to ANDREW JACKSON. 490 Nashville fame, came to the town bearing a commission from the Governor of North Carolina as at- torney of the Mero District. Colonel James Robertson was appointed a Brigadier-General. Tennessee was organized into a State and admitted into the Union in 1796. From its infancy as a village, Nashville has been something of a historic center. It has been the home of a number of men of national reputation. Under the leadership of Generals Jackson and Coffee, the gallant Tennessee troops who helped to win the famous victory at New Orleans assembled at Nashville. One of the happy events in the early life of the city, still treasured in our local histories, was the visit of General Lafayette in 1825. He was received and entertained with joyful demonstrations of affection, and it is said that he lonor remembered and often recalled with pleasure the cordiality of his reception. Nashville has been the arena of many hotly contested political battles. The eloquence of Sargeant Prentiss, of Henry Clay, of Meredith P. Gentry, of Haskell and the old-time orators is still remembered. The city was the home of Felix Grundy, of Thomas H. Benton, later the famous Missouri Senator, of General Sam Nashville 491 Houston, the hero of San Jacinto, and of John Bell. The historic and hospitable mansion of President Andrew Jackson at the Hermitage, a few miles east of Nashville, in those early- days, as now was the Mecca of many pilgrim- ages. Visitors are always charmed with the THE HERMITAGE MANSION, RESIDENCE OF ANDREW JACKSON. beauty of the surrounding country. A pictu- resque avenue lined with overshadowing cedars leads to the house. Its stately pillars and broad porch remind us of an old Virginia homestead. Here the hero and his beloved wife, Rachel Donelson, lived many happy years, 49- Nashville and entertained their friends and neighbors with generous hospitality. Here Aaron Burr was a welcome visitor, before he was suspected of treasonable purposes, and Lafayette, James Monroe and Martin Van Buren were honored guests. In a field adjoining the mansion, two hundred or more friends and neighbors were entertained at a dinner eiven in honor of the election of James K. Polk as President. Like the home of Washington at Mt, Ver- non, the residence at the Hermitage was a ver- itable museum of souvenirs, arranged and treasured by Mrs. Jackson and her adopted daughter. The walls were adorned with fam- ily and historic portraits, the work of noted artists. Near by, in a corner of the garden of the Hermitage, the remains of President Jackson and his dear wife lie side by side, under a modest but beautiful marble tomb, prepared by him for their reception. In his later years the old General rarely exhibited the sterner side of his nature. He was mild and courtly in manner. His kindness was proverbial among his neighbors. He became deeply in- terested in religion. To please his devoted wife, he had a modest chapel erected near their Nashville 493 home, and they were faithful attendants at all relio^ious meetinors held there. By an act of the Legislature of Tennessee, JAMES K. POLK. the Ladies' Hermitage Association, a society of patriotic ladies of Nashville, has charge of the Hermitage, its mansion and surroundings, 494 Nashville and through their untiring devotion the his- toric old home and its many treasures are well preserved and cared for. The residence of President James K. Polk still stands upon an elevated site in the center of the city of Nashville. It was a stately dwelling in its day, worthy to be the home of a President. His remains were deposited in a tomb of noble proportions erected in front of the mansion, but some years ago, by an act of the Legislature, they were removed to the grounds of the State Capitol. The revered widow of President Polk sur- vived him many years, and the old home and her gracious welcome added a charm to the social life of the city and attracted visitors from near and far. It was not until the year 1843 that Nash- ville became the seat of government of the State of Tennessee. The city presented to the State the splendid grounds upon which its beau- tiful capitol building stands. The famed Acrop- olis at Athens did not afford a nobler site for its temples. The traveler can see it from afar, and from the broad porticos of the State House one can survey the winding Cumberland and the varied beauties of the surrounding hills. Nashville 495 Nashville continued to grow in importance and prosperity year by year, until the shadows of the ereat conflict between the States clouded TOMB OF JAMES K. POLK, NASHVILLE. its happy life. The hearts of the people were mainly in sympathy with the Southern cause. True to the history of the Volunteer State, 40 Nashville its young men enlisted in the army, and its devoted women nursed the wounded in the hospitals. Unhappily, Fort Donelson soon fell ; the Federal gunboats steamed up the river ; Gen- eral Buell and his troops appeared on the north bank of the Cumberland, and in February, 1862, the proud city was forced to surrender to the Union army. Nashville became a vast military camp. Fed- eral brigades and divisions marched through its streets and camped in the beautiful wood- land parks about the city. A cordon of elabo- rate forts and earthworks was built along the chain of suburban hills to the south and west. An imposing fortress soon encircled the stately Capitol building, in the very heart of the city, and towered threateningly above the homes of its people. Its battlements and sharp angles, the very porticos of the Capitol, bristled with cannon. It became the central citadel of Federal defence. The fierce cannonade that announced the bloody battle at jMurfreesboro, thirty miles away, could almost be heard by the anxious mothers and friends within the walls at Nashville. General N. B. Forrest, with his cavalry force, Nashville 497 came and threatened the city for a time, but made no serious attack. Later, General Hood marched up from the south with a splendid army, reviving the hopes of the Confederates THE STATE HOUSE. in Nashville ; but the fatal disaster at Franklin, and the overwhelming defeat of the Confed- erates by General Thomas on the hills south of the city, shattered all hope, and left the Union forces in possession of the coveted prize until the close of the war. 498 Nashville Ah ! those were days that tore the heart- strines. East Tennessee had cast its affections and strenfjth with the North, and remained lo)al to the Union, Each section of the State had followed its convictions as to the right, and Tennessee may well be proud of her sons who fouQfht on either side. Nashville was the home of gallant Frank Cheatham, of General William H. Jackson, General William B. Bate, General Rains, General Maney and a host of other Confederates who won honor and distinction in the Southern cause. Buell, Rosecrans, Thomas, Sherman, Grant, distin- guished generals on the Federal side, had all held command there. Happily, peace came at last, and the long- beleaguered city breathed more freely. The remains of the Confederates who fell in the battles about Nashville were lovingly gathered into the beautiful grounds of the " Confederate Circle" at Mt. Olivet. The Federals sleep peacefully in the National Cemetery not far away, under the kindly care of the government. Soon the wheels of industry began to re- volve. New life and prosperity came. The heart of Cornelius Vanderbilt was warmed toward the desolated South, and a noble insti- 500 Nashville tution of learning- was endowed in his name. The Trustees of George Peabody came to the rescue also, and founded the Peabody Normal College. The Jubilee Singers of Nashville sang Fisk University into life, and endowed a useful institution dedicated to the education of the colored race recently freed from slavery. A new Nashville has adjusted itself to the changed order of things in the South, and is assuming the appearance and proportions of a metropolis. Its borders have extended to the picturesque hills that circle the city. Its fame as an educational center perhaps more than rivals its importance in commerce and manu- factures. More than five thousand students from other sections of the country are included in its scholastic population, and within the city limits there are not less than eighty schools and colleges — schools of theology, law, medi- cine, pharmacy, music and art. They are the glory of Nashville. The throng of teachers and students help to give it the charm of a literary and intellectual atmosphere. Right justly may it be called the "Athens of the South." Vanderbilt Univer- sity and Peabody Normal College, with their beautiful parks and clusters of fine buildings. Nashville 501 are institutions of which any city might be proud. In 1880, Nashville celebrated its Centennial in honor of the founding of the city. It was an inspiring occasion, but the Centennial of the State of Tennessee, celebrated at the capi- tal in 1896-97, crowned the city with laurels that will long be remembered with honorable pride. It was a revelation,— a noble memorial of a century of statehood. The dream of James Robertson, the father and founder of Nashville, was more than realized. In a little more than a century of progress, the camp of the brave little colony on the bank of the Cumberland had grown into a splendid South- ern city. LOUISVILLE THE GATEWAY CITY TO THE SOUTH By LUCIEN V. RULE BEAUTIFUL of situation is Louisville, the metropolis of Kentucky, and the Gateway City to the South. Builded along the Ohio at the Falls, the river stretches away to the northeast in a sheet of water nearly a mile wide and six miles in extent with a scarcely perceptible current, making one of the finest harbors in the whole course of this " Rhine of America." Circling hills surround the city, and the parks upon them are unsur- passed in this section of the country. The avenues are broad and well shaded, and while the residences are, as a rule, handsomely mod- ern, many splendid specimens of Colonial archi- tecture are to be seen. The homesteads in the suburbs are delightful, dreamy retreats, and the river valley is as fertile as that of the Jordan. 503 504 Louisville As the visitor approaches over any one of the railroads leadintr into Louisville and looks upon the charming scene just outlined, he may recall the historic associations connected with it. Here, in the long ago, Daniel Boone loved to linger and hunt. It was here that George Rogers Clark, the famous Indian ficrhter and leader of western civilization, first won renown. Here John Fitch studied the problem of steamboat navigation, anticipating Robert Fulton many years, and so far suc- ceeded that Fulton acknowledged him the original inventor of steam craft. Here the fathers of ornithology in the new world, Alex- ander Wilson and John J. Audubon, resided and labored, the latter first awaking to a realization of his marvellous genius in the Ken- tucky wilds. In this vicinity Zachary Taylor spent his childhood, learned the art of war, and returned at intervals of peace to reside, after achieving notable triumphs for the Republic on the hard-fought fields of Mexico and elsewhere. It was here that George Keats, favorite brother of the poet, John Keats, came to live, bringing with him from old England an atmosphere of classic culture and refinement which influenced the develop- Louisville 505 ment of intellectual Louisville. It was here, also, that Henry Clay often came to confer with his political colleagues, and to charm the people with his superb oratory. Here George D. Prentice, whose witty, trenchant paragraphs on the edito- rial page of The Louisville y ournal vi\2.di^ it the most widely quoted American pa- per in foreign realms, wield- ed his wonder- ful influence as the cham- pion of the ofreat Pacifi- cator of Ash- land. Near this city General Robert Anderson, the fearless hero of Fort Sumter in 1861, was reared, and hither he returned after its surrender and re- ceived the welcome plaudits of all parties for his memorable loyalty to the Stars and Stripes. In this city many of the ablest Federal command- QEO. D. PRENTICE. FROM AN OLD PAINTING OWNED BY THE POLYTECHNIC SOCIETY OF KENTUCKY. 5o6 Louisville ers first came into national notice duringr the Civil War ; and here resides now Henry Wat- terson, whose patriotic pen and eloquent lips in recent years have dispelled the last feeling^ oi prejudice between the once estranged sections of the Union, and who, speaking for his fellow- citizens, cordially received the Grand Army of the Republic into the South on their first visit since they left its soil as conquerors. In the evolution of nations struggle is un- avoidable, but higher results ensue : and it is the peculiar pride of the State of Kentucky that though Lincoln and Davis, the two leaders of the Federal and Confederate governments while the fate of the Union was being decided on the bloody field, were her sons, neverthe- less her conservatism, wise counsel and gentle forbearance — beginning in the speeches of Henry Clay long previous to the late unpleas- antness, and continuing in the admirable efforts of Henry Watterson afterward — indicated the path to peace and prosperity. The motto of the Republic is " Many in one " ; that of Kentucky," United we stand, divided we fall " ; and it has been the mission of our State to emphasize the vital political truth that many commonwealths with widely diverse institutions. Louisville 507 may safely unite in the formation of one strong central government ; that a multiplicity of peoples with entirely different interests and pursuits may still be one in sympathy, purpose and hope. Situated midway between the North and the South, not only is her climate a delisfhtful minelinof of both extremes, but the temper of her inhabitants is a dignified reserve and a spontaneous fervor of feeling happily proportioned. Able, on the one hand, to ap- preciate the spirit of progress which makes the North impatient of those conditions and ten- dencies which the South has wisely altered with caution ; and, on the other hand, appre- hending the principle of personal independence which causes the South to suspect Northern counsel as impelled by a desire to interfere with individual liberty, she has long occupied a position similar to that of Tennyson's sweet little heroine, Annie, who, sitting between Enoch and Philip, with a hand of each in her own, would weep, " And pray them not to quarrel for her sake." Scarcely less sublime than Columbus pacing the deck of his ship at sea and looking wist- fully westward in search of the new world he- 5oS Louisville so faithfully sought, seems Daniel Boone, in 1769, venturing forth from the quiet valleys of the Yadkin in response to the promptings of his restless spirit, unconsciously going to prepare the way for the millions that were subse- quently to follow him, and as if by masfic to trans- form into fertile fields the path- less forests beyond the Alle- ghanies which he was the first to penetrate and explore. Dauntless, noble souls they were who cre- ated our c o m - monwealth ; and Byron, fascinated with the refreshing fame of Daniel Boone, which ex- tended throughout Europe as well as America, celebrated him and his fellow Kentuckians in a number of fine stanzas in the eighth canto DANIEL BOONE. FROM A PAINTING IN THE POSSESSION OF COL. R. T. DURRETT, LOUISVILLE, KY. Louisville 509 of Don Juan. Henry James, in his life of Hawthorne, laments the lack of historic in- spiration for prose and verse in this country ; yet Byron, sadly turning from the shams and hypocrisies of the Old World, which he scath- ingly satirized in his great production, burst into a beautiful strain of hope as he contem- plated the uncorrupted heroes of the new world beyond the Atlantic. The description begins half humorously with the sixty-first stanza : " Of all men saving Sylla the man-slayer, Who passes for in life and death most lucky, Of the great names which in our faces stare. The General Boon, backwoodsman of Kentucky, Was happiest among mortals anywhere ; .For killing nothing but a bear or buck, he Enjoyed the lonely, vigorous, harmless days Of his old age in wilds of deepest maze." The reader cannot help smiling at the poet's mistake in leavinof off the final letter of Boone's name and calling him " General," when all Kentuckians, even including the illustrious pioneer, are "Colonels"; but the spirit of a master interpreter of Nature is in the stanzas that follow. It was not until i 778 that LouisVille, as it was then called, was founded, George Rogers Clarke 5IO Louisville being a resident of Harrodsburg, Ky., during the years 1776 and I'J']']. The incidents con- nected with the settlement he established at the Falls are memorable in the annals of the W^ e s t . The British leaders were seekintr to strike an effect- ual blow at all the American frontier fortress- es, and with this end in view were enlisting the sympathies and co-operation o f the Indian tribes. Detroit, \ i n c e n n e s , Kaskaskia and similar British GEORGE ROGERS CLARK. FROM A PAIN-ING IN THE POSSESSION OF COL R. T. OURRETT, LOUISVILLE, KY. Stations were well fortified, and plans were speedily forming for a descent on the unprepared and unsuspect- ing pioneers in the Ohio Valley. Clark instinct- ively discerned this scheme and secretly but courageously determined to thwart it. He Louisville 511 accordingly went to Williamsburg, Va., in November, 1777. The news of Burgoyne's sur- render had inspired the Virginia authorities with patriotic enthusiasm, and Governor Henry sanctioned Clark's proposal to raise a suffici- ent force to proceed against the British in the Northwest. Orders were issued and Clark was put in command of the expedition. Six thou- sand dollars in colonial currency were voted him, and with the rank of Colonel he set out for Pittsburg. After much discouragement he secured three companies of volunteers and a number of adventurers and continued his journey down the river to the Falls. The fort that he built on his arrival furnished a nucleus around which the village subsequently sprang up. Thirteen families remained at the Falls while Clark and his men went on against Kas- kaskia. The campaign was a brilliant success. One post after another fell into the hands of the fearless Kentuckians, and the whole of the Northwest Territory was opened to emigration. It is said that when Clark and his followers appeared before the astonished garrisons dur- ing these operations, the redcoats almost im- agined a force had dropped from the skies, so 512 Louisville inaccessible had they deemed their strongholds to be, and so suddenly had their conquerors come upon them. It was not strange, therefore, that the eloquent John Randolph of Roanoke spoke of Clark in after years as the " Ameri- can Hannibal, who, by the reduction of those military posts in the wilderness, obtained the Lakes for the northern boundary of our Union at the peace in 1783." If the visitor desires to see the location of the first settlement at the Falls let him stand upon the Fourteenth Street Bridge and look down the river. To the right is the main cur- rent of the Ohio as it plunges roaring over the Falls, and to the left is the island on which Colonel Clark and his men built a fort when they arrived in the spring of 1778. This was called " Corn Island," from the fact that a crop of corn was planted by the risky pioneers around the fortress, and carefully cultivated, notwithstanding they were hourly exposed to Indian attacks. Either in the autumn of 1 778 or the spring of 1 779 (history is not certain which), the garrison on Corn Island went ashore and laid the foun- dation of the future city of Louisville. Huts, blockhouses and stockades were erected, and BLOCKHOUSE AND LOG CABINS ON CORN ISLAND, 1778. FIRST SETTLEMENT OF LOUISVILLE, KY. Front an old print in the possession of Col. R. T. Durrett^ Louisville., Ky. 514 Louisville the Indians saw that the intruders had come to stay. During the year 1779, Colonel Clark directed his energies against the British post Vincennes, and easily captured it. In May, 1780, the Virginia Legislature passed an " Act for Establishing the Town of Louis- ville at the Falls of Ohio." The population of the place had increased to six hundred ; but the increase of strength rendered the pioneers careless, and as a consequence the Indians on several occasions surprised and captured par- ties beyond the protection of the fort and es- caped with them across the river, or into the wilderness to the south, almost before an alarm could be given. Colonel Clark, in order to ward off the attacks of the red men, con- structed a unique sort of gunboat supplied with four-pound cannon. It was the first act- ual vessel of war ever seen on the Ohio, and though some chroniclers are disposed to make light of its actual utility as a means of defence, it kept the insidious savages from crossing the river in its vicinity. This period in the history of Kentucky ( I 780-1800) was admirably portrayed by the facile pen of Washington Irving after his literary tour of the West in 1834, when he I ^ 5i6 Louisville visited Louisville and took notes for future sketches. An eccentric though shrewd char- acter of the da)', William P. Duval, whose career as a pioneer lawyer, and whose adven- tures as an Indian commissioner under Mon- roe gave him fame scarcely second to that of George Rogers Clark, inspired those two nar- ratives in Crayon Papers, called " The Early Experiences of Ralph Ringwood," and " The Conspiracy of Neamathla." Mr. Irving's humor Is at its best in the first of these and his picture of primitive people is unsurpassed. James K. Paulding likewise wrote of Governor Duval in a novel called Nimrod Wildfire. With the old-style method of travel by keel- boat and barges (i 780-1810), going down the river was easy enough, but ascending stream was indeed difficult. A mile an hour was the maximum rate of progress, and if the wind and tide chanced to be unfavorable, many days were lost in waiting. Then, again, the craft was likely to strike a snag or run aground, and the strength and patience of the crew would be completely exhausted ere another start could be effected. Sometimes the men be- came so exasperated that they would leave the boat or barge e7i masse and return afoot Louisville 517 whence they had started. It required three and often four months to come up to Louis- ville from New Orleans. Nor was this all. Bands of desperadoes infested the forest on either shore, and would hold up a boat or barge, — prototypes of the notorious train robbers of later days. The records of river navigation are filled with thrilling incidents and studies of unique character. But notwithstanding these difficulties Euro- pean tourists ventured into the wilds in search of novelty or on business speculations. One of these came to the Falls city as early as 1806, and afterwards, in writing his impres- sions of the place, said : " I had thought Cin- cinnati one of the most beautiful towns I had seen in America, but Louisville, which is al- most as large, equals it in beauty and in the opinion of many exceeds it." Robert Fulton and Daniel French went into the steamboat-building business at Pittsburg, after the trip of the Orleans in 181 1 ; and a few years later better facilities were afforded for travel on the Ohio. The Eastern visitor to Louisville should by all means come from Cincinnati, or even Pittsburg, by boat in order to study the historic scenes and associations 5i8 Louisville of the " Rhine of America." Distinct epochs in American literature have arisen from the inspiration and suggestion given by this cele- brated stream and life along its course to the various writers who travelled its waters. First and foremost among these was John J. Audubon who came in 1809, previous to the opening of navigation by steamboat. Reports of the happy wilds of Kentucky had reached him in his Pennsylvania home subsequent to his return from Paris, where he had been so- journing as an art student. His passion for ornithology drove him to the West, and the hour he left Pittsburof marked the beofinninsf of a new era in his wonderful career as a nat- uralist. The Ohio charmed him, and, locating at Louisville, he collected specimens of every bird that could be found in forest or field. In 18 10, Alexander Wilson, the distinguished Scotch-American ornithologist, traversed the Ohio and Mississippi valleys on a mission sim- ilar to Audubon's. Stopping for a season at the Falls city he chanced to become ac- quainted with Audubon, and in the course of conversation the two exchanged ideas and were astonished to discover that they were pursuing the same line of w^ork. This meeting 520 Louisville was memorable, for it awakened Audubon to a full realization of his genius and helped Wilson unspeakably. Indeed, so far-reaching were its results that in order to appreciate them one has first to familiarize himself with some of the subtlest tendencies and movements of the nineteenth century. When steamboat navioration beofan on the Ohio (1812-16) the rush of emigration com- menced anew. Thirty-nine English families sent Henry Bradshaw Fearon over in 18 16 to make a careful study of places and people in the Ohio Valley. He was an intelligent, prac- tical observer, and his descriptions of the in- habitants and social conditions of Louisville are strikingly suggestive of Dickens. There is a vein of sarcasm in his observations, due to the fact that he has little sympathy with the commercial ambition that seemed to possess the people to the exclusion of higher pursuits. Every one seemed self-absorbed and bent on money-making ; even the best hotels were con- ducted on the crowding policy. The people had unparalleled appetites, according to Mr. Fearon, for his description of a tavern meal in Louisville is similar to Dickens's report of the fast-eating Americans he met while among us. Louisville 521 The tide of emigration from England swelled enormously in the decades succeeding 1820- 40, and swindlers reaped so rich a harvest by selling imaginary land bargains in imaginary towns of the Ohio Valley that an investiga- tion became necessary. A leading purpose with Charles Dickens in coming to America on his first tour in 1842 was to examine into and expose these frauds, which he did with fearless sarcasm and irresistible irony. The whole plot of Martin Chuzzlewit hinges on real-estate speculations at Cairo, 111., at the mouth of the Ohio, the original of the city of *' Eden," which Scadder, the real-estate agent, so eulogistically described to Martin that the credulous young Englishman forthwith in- vested all his funds in the hope of reaping an ample fortune by the day he set foot in the place. Pittsburg, Cincinnati and Louisville are realistically, and in some respects ridicu- lously, portrayed in chapters xxi.-xxiii., and if the reader will compare these with Dickens's American Notes, the actual scenes and ex- periences that suggested the story may be found. As an offset to the severity of this inimitable satire, the reader should peruse the article 522 Louisville " Eno^lish Writers on America " in Washinor- ton Irvinoj-'s Sketch Book, which was called forth by exaggerated stories propagated by the pens of early British travellers in this country after their return home. Dickens came to Louisville in 1842, and when he had gone up to his room at the Gait House, Major Throck- morton, the proprietor, who was as high spir- ited as he was polite, appeared at the novelist's door and said, " Sir, I am proud to extend you the hospitality of the house ; and shall be de- lighted to serve you to the best of my ability." " Boz," in spite of his alertness, was not aware of the vast difference there is between the so- cial standing of an American hotel proprietor and that of an English innkeeper. Glancing at the Major he replied, " All right, sir ; all right ; if I want anything I '11 ring for you." Throckmorton's eyes flashed with anger as he exclaimed, " What do you mean by such im- pudence to me ? You don't know whom you are talking to ; I '11 throw you out of the win- dow." The Major was a powerful man and would doubtless have made good his threat had not Dickens speedily apologized for his mistake. Amonor the Enorlishmen induced to emierate 524 Louisville to Kentucky by Mr. Fearon's book in 1818, was George Keats, brother of the poet, John Keats, The circumstances of his coming and his career after arriving form one of the inter- esting chapters in the early history of the State. Georofe returned to Enofland in the autumn -of 1 8 19, leaving his wife in Louisville. Secur- ing the remainder of the family estate which fell to him, he invested in the lumber trade at the Falls city and made a fortune. His mills were located on First Street, between Wash- ington Street and the river, and in 1835 ^^ built an elegant residence on what is now Wal- nut Street, between Third and Fourth. The square on which this mansion still stands was then the aristocratic section of the city, and while the house was in course of construction people would stroll along and speak admiringly of it as "The Englishman's Palace." With the exception of the roof, which was altered, and the present portico, which was added by a subsequent purchaser, the residence is in no wise changed since George Keats occupied it. Lavish was the hospitality dispensed by the poet's brother, and he will always rank among the noblest citizens Louisville has ever had. Louisville 525. Though the happiness of helping] ohn was not, as he had hoped, permitted him, his house be- came the center of a circle of warm admirers of the author of Endyniion, and for a long time the culture of the city and State found in him a leader both liberal and inspiring. James Freeman Clarke was for seven or eight years pastor of the Unitarian Church in Louisville, and Georo^e Keats was a member of his con- gregation. The two became intimate friends, and Mr. Clarke afterward wrote entertainingly of him. He served in the city council and aided in the establishment of the Louisville school system. The correspondence between George and John includes some of the poet's finest letters. These descended to one of Georg-e's daughters. About the year 1873 her son, John Gilmer Speed, the well-known writer, now of New York, chanced to be looking over these price- less papers and noticed that they had not been published in Lord Houghton's life of Keats. He accordingly collected them, and from one of the volumes we select a few brief senten- ces pertinent to the purpose of the present sketch. One letter from John tells George to take. 526 Louisville financial reverses as coolly as possible, con- siderini^f he had done his best. Another, de- clining- an invitation to come to Kentucky, says, " You will perceive that it is quite out of my interest to come to America. What could I do there ? How could I employ m)- self, out of the reach of libraries ? " And thus he counsels George : " Be careful of those Americans. I could almost advise you to come, whenever you have the sum of five hundred pounds, to England. Those Ameri- cans will, I am afraid, still fleece you." In a letter to George's wife in January, 1820, he speaks of his wish to cross the sea with his brother : " I could almost promise you that if I had the means I would accompany George back to America, and pay you a visit of a few months." Had he made the trip and beheld with his own eyes the loveliness of the Ohio Valley, and met the kindly people of Ken- tucky, he would not have been so inclined to disparage Louisville society : " I was sur- prised to hear of the state of society at Louis- ville : it seems you are just as ridiculous there as we are here — threepenny parties, halfpenny dances. The best thing I have heard of is your shooting, for it seems you follow the gun." 528 Louisville A terrible tragedy occurred at the Keats mansion, back in the forties, about which there is a pathetic tradition. Isabella, the beautiful young daughter of George Keats, according to tradition, killed herself in a fit of despon- dency at the unhappy termination of a love- affair. A circumstance said to have taken place in 1890 seemed to substantiate the tra- dition. An elderly, refined-looking and quiet stranger appeared repeatedly at the Keats house and requested to be left alone in the library, where the girl was shot. At first he offered no explanation of his unusual request, but when finally leaving he said to the lady who had admitted him, " I parted from her in there, and have returned from California to visit the scene once more." The rumor was soon circulated that the mysterious stranger was the lover whose unfaithfulness had robbed the unhappy girl of the desire to live. The descendants of George Keats still liv- ing in Louisville deny the pathetic story throughout. They affirm that the girl was heartwhole and free from any morbid tenden- cies. Their version of the tragedy is substan- tially as follows : Isabella's brother Clarence had been out hunting in the vicinity of the 53° Louisville city, and, returning home, carelessly left his gun on a sofa in the darkened library. Isa- bella shortly afterward went into the room to lie down, and, not seeing the loaded weapon, struck the trigger in such a way with her foot that the contents was discharged, mortally wounding her. Edward Earaleston's inimitable Hoosier Tales portray the next period in the history of the Ohio Valley (1840-60), immortalizing those pedagogues of the Ichabod Crane type who came swarming from New England when the tide of emigration first set westward. Mr. Eggleston spent his childhood on the river be- tween Cincinnati and Louisville, and his pic- tures of primitive social life in Kentucky and southern Indiana are in the style of Irving's sketch already mentioned. Zachary Taylor went to school, not far from the Falls fort, to one of these Yankee teachers, a native of Connecticut by the name of Ayers, who was a sagacious fellow, able to watch the Indians and urchins simultaneously. The South and West owe these wandering educators a debt of gratitude that can hardly be overestimated. It was from the Falls city that Aaron Burr planned to make his treasonable descent upon Louisville 531 the South in November, 1805, ^^^ there is still current in the State much interesting tra- dition concerning him. The court-house in Louisville contains the noble statue of Henry Clay by Joel T. Hart. At the Polytechnic Society on Fourth Avenue are Hart's other pieces of statuary ; and on Third Avenue, at the residence of Mrs. Elizabeth Menefee, are many of those superb portraits painted by Matthew H. Jouett, Gilbert Stuart's favorite pu- pil, and a master American artist. His genius and that of Hart developed beyond the confines of classic civilization, and though subsequently aided and directed by the best instruction of conventional schools retained an individuality and conformity to nature all their own. Just across the court-house square, and within a stone's throw of the imposing figure of the sage of Ashland is the site of the old Pope residence where Worden Pope and his sons entertained James Monroe and Andrew Jackson during their tour through the South in 18 19. The Popes held a high position of political influence in the State, and at a con- ference called on this occasion the name of Andrew Jackson was first proposed to the Southern people as Monroe's successor. 532 Louisville The home of Zachary Taylor, five miles from the city, is well worth visiting. Near it is the house in which Jefferson Davis was married to his first wife, the daughter of Gen- eral Taylor. On August 6, 1855, occurred the terrible political riot precipitated by the Know-noth- ings. A mob with a cannon at their head went murdering and burning through the streets of Louisville. The day is known in history as " Bloody Monday." Louisville was decidedly Union in its sym- pathies during the Civil War, though many of its inhabitants inclined to support the Southern cause. George D. Prentice, though just and kindly to the South, was always loyal to the national government, and his paper, the Jour- nal, was notably influential on that side. The Falls city as a recruiting station at the begin- ning of the struggle between the States was fully as important in the West as was Wash- ington in the East. It was the basis of numer- ous military movements that turned the tide of fortune against the Confederates, and in this city some of the most eminent Federal com- manders were at different times located. At the home of Col. Reuben T. Durrett on ^^w 534 Louisville East Chestnut Street are relics innumerable, and the scholarly host, who knows every fact of the city's history, is ever ready to show them to the visitor. Louisville is not only a lively commercial center, but Is also the home of culture and art. The brain and beauty of which she boasts can be found throughout the Blue Grass region, and the hospitality she dis- penses Is characteristic of the whole common- wealth. Mary Anderson de Navarro first won fame In this city, her girlhood home, and has never ceased to love It. Henry Watterson and his able young lieutenant, Harrison Rob- ertson, still keep the Cotiricr-yotirnal to the front ; and James Lane Allen, though not a native nor a resident of the Falls city, por- trays the traits of her people upon his inimita- ble pages when he writes of all Kentucklans. Madison Cawein, the Keats of America, Is here; and Charles J. O'Malley, who voices the sentiment of every Kentucklan when he sings : " My own Kentucky, sweet is fame, And other suns sink down in flame ; And other skies bend over blue ; And other lands have hearts as true ; And other mornings break as clear : Louisville 535 And God keeps love-watch everywhere- But O, my mother, on thy breast Alone my head may find full rest, — My heart to thy heart as of yore, — Asleep within thy arms once more, O my Kentucky ! " LITTLE ROCK "THE CITY OF ROSES" By GEORGE B. ROSE THERE are spots marked out by nature for the sites of cities, where they must spring up as soon as civiHzation is estabHshed and remain as long as it endures. Such a spot is Little Rock. The southeastern half of Arkansas is low and flat, composed chiefly of alluvial plains ; the northwestern half ruesfed and broken, ris- ing toward the western border into the moun- tains, some three thousand feet in elevation, which gradually drop away toward the east till they disappear altogether. At the point, almost the exact center of the State, where the last foothills form the south bank of the principal river, it was inevitable that a city should be built and that that city should be- come the State's capital. Indeed, so manifest 537 538 Little Rock was the destiny of the position that it was made the seat of government before it had become a town, and when it was far beyond the limits of actual settlement. Nor would it be easy to find a more desir- able spot not beside the sea. The foundation is a rock bluff of slight elevation, but sufficient to lift the city above the danger of overflow. On this there rests a bed of gravelly clay, covered with a thin vegetable mould, and ris- ings to the south and west in a succession of gently swelling eminences, presenting innu- merable building sites of the most attractive character, and draining in every direction ; equally free from steep acclivities and un- wholesome flatness, and clothed by nature with a magnificent forest of wide-spreading oaks and lofty pines. Far out into the river there projects a rocky peninsula, against whose adamantine sides the stream has dashed its ineffectual fury for countless ages ; and this, in contrast to the bold precipice upon the other bank, which was called the Big Rock, gave to the place its name. This promontory is now used as the abut- ment of one of the three bridges that span the river, and its beauty has been destroyed ; but Little Rock 539 in the old days, when it was clothed with trees and ferns clinging to its rocky sides and reflected in the waters below, it was a charm- ing sight, and must have been hailed with joy by the early travelers after their weary journey THE "little rock," TO WHICH THE CITY OWES ITS NAME. from the distant sea through the monotony of the low-lying wilderness. The original inhabitants of the region were the Quapaw or Arkansas Indians, a race much superior to the surrounding savages, and who dwelt not in scattered wigwams but in walled villages, and seem always to have lived in amity with the whites. Father Pierre Fran- 9ois de Charlevoix, an early French missionary, 540 Little Rock says of them, " The Arkansas are reckoned to be the tallest and best-shaped of all the savages on this continent," and he speaks at length of their kindness to the French, and their fidelity to their engagements. So Du LITTLE ROCK LEVEE. Pratz, an early voyageiw, says : " I am so pre- possessed in favor of this country that I per- suade myself that the beauty of the climate has a o-reat influence on the character of the inhabitants, who are at the same time very gentle and very brave." In the days when Little Rock was a part of the favorite hunting-ground of the Quapaws it must have been a lovely spot. Then the Little Rock 541 tall trees grew untouched upon its rolling hills, and its numerous little streams, now con- verted into sewers, flowed murmuring beneath overhanging ferns to mingle with the river. When it was first visited by white men no one knows. During 1541 and 1542 De Soto marched back and forth througrh the reeion, seeking for gold with a Spaniard's hunger ; but the accounts of his wanderings are uncer- tain and confused, and the blood of the un- happy natives which once marked out his pathway has long since mingled with the dust. Then for almost two hundred years the sol- itude of the wilderness remained unbroken. At rare intervals the French voyageurs went up and down the Mississippi, establishing forts and trading-posts ; but the great river so engrossed their attention that they left its tributaries unexplored. At length, in 1722, a French officer, Bernard de la Harpe, ascended the Arkansas, and on April 9th reached the picturesque heights of Big Rock, where the army post is now located. Standing upon the brink of its lofty precipice he watched the river winding far away in the distance between the mountains of the West, and dreamed of the mighty empire that France should build up 542 Little Rock where lay the untrodden beauty of the woods. The whole site of Little Rock was spread out beneath him, clothed in verdure, and he men- tions the slate bluffs which it presents to the stream. Then again the curtain is drawn over the scene. Doubtless from time to time French voyagciirs ascended the river to barter with the Indians for their furs, but they left no mark. In 1803, th^ country passed to the United States as a part of the Louisiana purchase, and the hardy Anglo-Saxon pioneer began to pen- etrate the wilderness, his Bible in one hand and in the other his long, death-dealing rifle. As early as 18 14 three or four squatters were dwellincr at Little Rock or in its vicin- ity, subsisting chiefly by the chase ; and even then the importance of the site was so conspic- uous that strong men dwelling in St. Louis and other places began to struggle for possession of the title with a pertinacity rarely equalled. At this period it escaped a great danger. An effort was made to christen it Arkopolis, and deeds were executed with that desiofnation ; but better counsels prevailed, and it retained its old name, " The Little Rock," the article then being an inseparable portion of the title. t.i;M!XeiiSMi^S^ -f 544 Little Rock It was still a mere spot in the forest marked by a few log huts when, on October 24, 1820, it was made the capital of the terri- tory. On the 4th of July of tliat year the Rev. Cephas Washburn had preached the first sermon ever heard there, and in the rude cabin there were gathered to listen to him only fourteen men, — no women, — probably all the inhabitants of the place. Yet no one doubted that they were standing upon the site of a future city, or questioned the wis- dom of the Leg-islature when it established the capital in the remote wilderness, far from the Mississippi in whose neighborhood the scanty population of the territory was chiefly gathered. The town grew slowly. It was far from the centers of population, and the means of travel were slight and precarious. It was made a post-office town on April 10, 1820, but the in- habitants in 1830 numbered only four hundred and fifty, and it was not incorporated until Nov. 7, 1831. In i860, the population was only about five thousand. Between 1833 and 1846 the State House was built, a handsome edifice for the time and place ; but generally the buildings Little Rock 545 were constructed of wood, not infrequently of logs, and were wholly unpretentious. Yet it is probable that there has never been in the city so much ability, certainly never so many striking personalities, as in those early days. OLD STATE HOUSE. It was a time when the nation was in its lusty youth, when the spirit of adventure and the love of independence were strong in the breasts of men. It was an age of great ora- tors, when men felt strongly and expressed themselves in words that burned. It was an acre when the romantic movement in literature was at its best, and when the sad smallness of the realistic school had not cast its blight on every lofty enthusiasm. It was a time of 546 Little Rock buoyancy, of expansion, — when the love of change and adventure, the weariness of the conventionalities of civilized life, the attractions of a future of unknown possibilities, were draw- ing many of the ablest and most ambitious of the THE HOUSE WHERE THE ARKANSAS LEGISLATURE WAS HELD IN 1835. nation's youth to the distant West. Their hopes were often chimerical ; but of their abil- ities and their energy there can be no doubt. They sought the West, conscious of their strength, burning with ambition, each dream- ing that he would be the master-spirit of the new empire that was springing from the wil- derness. When they found that instead of being unquestioned leaders among ignorant frontiersmen they were pitted against foemen Little Rock 547 worthy of their steel, and equally determined to rule the destinies of the infant common- wealth, the rivalries were fierce, the animosi- ties bitter, the struggle in- tense. Politics ran high, and conflicting am- bitions led to a degree of per- sonal virulence in writing and in speech sur- pass i n g any- thing that we have t o-d a y. When these young men first met, fire flashed as when flint and steel are struck together, and in the ter- ritorial days their quarrels were too often solved by the duel. After the admission of the State in 1836 affairs became more tran- quil. The strong men gradually learned to dwell together in peace ; but their rivalries, though less bloody, were not less strenuous. ALBERT PIKE. 548 Little Rock All parts of the country contributed their quota. From Massachusetts there came per- haps the two ablest men, Chester Ashley and Albert Pike, men who would have been remarkable in any age or place. Connect- icut sent Samuel H. Hempstead ; Virginia, Henry W, Conway and Solon Borland ; Kentucky, the State's most ac- complished ora- tors, Robert Crittenden and Frederick W. Trap nail, be- sides William and Ebenezer Cummins and George C. Watkins ; North Carolina, Archi- bald Yell ; Tennessee, Absalom Fowler and Ambrose H. Sevier ; and there were many others from various sections worthy to enter the same arena. And not at home alone were the great ROBERT CRITTENDEN. Little Rock 549 abilities of these men acknowledged. Arkan- sas' first two senators were Ashley and Sevier, and the former was the chairman of the Judici- ary Committee of the Senate, while the latter THE OLD FOWLER MANSION. NOW THE RESIDENCE OF JOHN M. GRACIE. was the chairman of its Committee on Foreign Relations, the only time when the chairman- ship of both those great committees has been lodged in the hands of a single State, — and that a State whose population consisted of a few frontiersmen almost lost in the primeval forest. And when the Mexican War was over and the 550 Little Rock time came to reap the fruits of victory, it was Mr. Sevier who, together with Mr. Justice Chfford, negotiated the treaty of peace. The leaders of the infant commonwealth THE CRITTENDEN RESIDENCE. THE FIRST BRICK HOUSE BUILT IN LITTLE ROCK. NOW THE HOME OF GOVERNOR JAMES P. EAGLE. were all lawyers. In the early days of the Re- public the position of lawyers was much more commanding than it is at present. Their social influence has waned before the aristoc- racy of wealth ; and their political power has largely passed to the "boss" and the machine, whose authority rests on a more material 552 Little Rock basis than eloquence and reason. And never was there a city so dominated by its bar as Little Rock in the olden times. Everything circled around the great lawyers. Even the wealth of the community was mostly in their hands. The houses of the citizens were sfen- erally of wood, and usually stood upon the street ; but scattered about there arose the stately mansions of the leaders of the bar, — of Ashley, Pike, Trapnall, Fowler, Crittenden, Hempstead and others, encircled by extensive grounds and shaded by patriarchal trees, dom- inatintr- the surroundinor dwellinofs almost like feudal chateaux. In these mansions were con- centrated the social and intellectual life of the community, and its history was the story of their daily struggles for pre-eminence. So Little Rock grew and flourished, men dwelling in peace beneath their vines and fig trees, until the year 1861 brought up the mo- mentous question of disunion and war. Ar- kansas was strongly attached to the Union. In its mountainous regfions there were no slaves, and three fourths of the people were white. The convention called to determine the course the State should take adjourned without ac- tion, declining to enter the confederacy that Little Rock 553 had been formed at Montgomery, Ala. But when they reassembled the war was already flagrant, and with only a single dissenting vote they cast in their lot with their brethren of the South. The result was hailed by the peo- ple of Little Rock with unlimited enthusiasm. Confidence in the success of Southern arms was universal. No grim spectre of invasion and despair haunted their dreams. But the awakeningr was rude. The Northern armies poured across the border in overwhelming numbers, and soon the people had to fight for their altars and their firesides. Rarely have a people sprung so universally to arms, or defended their homes with such tenacity. Out of a voting population of 61,198, fully fifty thousand were in the ranks. But they fought in vain. On Sept. 10, 1863, Little Rock was captured by the Northern forces under General Steele. They did the place no harm, save that upon one of its highest eminences they constructed a powerful fort, and to hold it in security leveled the forest to a great dis- tance in every direction, destroying many a monarch of the wood which it will require centuries to replace. Since the Civil War the history of Little 554 Little Rock Rock has been one of continuous develop- ment. Even the period of Reconstruction, that stranee saturnalia that constitutes one of the darkest spots in the annals of the Anorlo- CUSTOM HOUSE AND POST OFFICE. Saxon race, did not retard its growth. It is now a city of some forty thousand inhabitants, and its future has never been so bright. The mildness of its climate and the profusion of its flowers have won for it the name of " The City of Roses." The charm of its society, where Southern hospitality is so happily- Little Rock 555 blended with Northern thrift and neatness, have made it a favorite place for visitors from every State. Its inhabitants are fond of art and of foreign travel, and few cities of its UTTLE ROCK UNIVERSITY. size send to Europe a larger or more regular contingent, or can show to the visitor more statues and pictures brought home from abroad. A breadth of view unique in the South, which has led it to welcome immigra- tion from the North, has saved it from stagna- tion, and in all departments of business there 556 Little Rock are almost as many men from the North as from the South. The Indian Territory, which for years has stood as a Chinese wall upon the State's western border, cutting it off from all participation in the great movement of trans- continental traffic, and retarding its progress to an extent that is almost inconceivable, is now opening, and railroads are penetrating the new field. Commerce is flourishing, fac- tories springing up, and everywhere the school- master is abroad in the land. The decrees of the future are inscrutable, but, so far as mor- tal eye can discern, the twentieth century will be for Little Rock one of constant (growth and advancement, material and intellectual, and the wisdom of the men who planted the State's capital upon this rock when it stood alone in the pathless wilderness will be more than justified. ST. AUGUSTINE THE OLDEST TOWN IN THE UNITED STATES By GEORGE R. FAIRBANKS FAR down on the Atlantic coast lies the old city of St. Augustine. Unlike most of our early towns, which have either been aban- doned, like Jamestown, or rebuilt and modern^ ized until their ancient form and fashion are no longer recognizable, St. Augustine has pre- served its antiquity. Its newness is placed alongside, but does not overlie and hide, its ancient character. Its old self is still there, always to be felt and seen, and ever about the old city there cling historic associations which throw around it a charm that few can fail to feel. The aroma of its life is in its past : and when we recall the fact that it is more than forty years older than Jamestown ; that it was a com- paratively old town when the Puritans landed 557 558 St. Augustine at Plymouth ; that here, for the first time, iso- lated within the shadows of the primeval forest, the civilization of the old world made its abid- ing-place, where all was new and wild and THE OLD CITY GATE. strange ; that this now so insignificant place was the key to a possible empire ; that on its occupation or destruction rested French or Spanish domination ; that it was a vice-provin- cial court, boasted of its Addantados, men of the first mark and note, of its Royal Exchequer, its public functionaries, its brave men-at-arms ; that its proud name. La sieviprc fiel cttidad de San Agustin (" the ever-faithful city of St. St. Augustine 559 Augustine " ), was conferred by its monarch ; that here the cross was first planted ; that from the Papal chair itself rescripts were addressed to its governors ; that the first great efforts at Christianizing the fierce native tribes pro- ceeded from this spot ; that the martyrs* blood was first here shed ; that around these walls the clash of arms and the battle-cry have been heard, we may well feel a greater interest in this ancient city than is possessed by mere brick and mortar, rapid growth or unwonted prosperity. The first European who visited this spot, so far as we know, was that sturdy cavalier, Juan Ponce de Leon, who in 1 5 1 3 came to Florida in search of the fountain of youth, but, failing to find it, gave to Florida its name and perpet- uated his own by the romantic quest upon which he came. More than fifty years afterwards, St. Augus- tine was visited by Menendez with a Spanish fleet, and a permanent settlement was made. Admiral Coligny, a distinguished leader of the Huguenot party in France, harassed by the religious animosities which prevailed between the Roman Catholics and Protestants, con- ceived the idea of planting a colony of his 56o St. Augustine co-religionists in America, both for their protec- tion and to extend the possessions of France into the new world. For this purpose a small fleet was equipped in the year 1562, and sent out under the command of Captain Jean Ri- baut. The expe- dition came up- on the coast of Florida, near St. Augustine, the harbor of which they named the River of Dol- phins, because of the many por- poises they saw there. They then entered the m o u t h of the River St. John's, planted a column of stone, and passed on to the coast of South Carolina, where they built a small fort called Charlesfort. Leaving there a small orarrison, Ribaut returned to France, intending soon to return with a larger force. Circumstances prevented his return, and it PEDRO MENENDEZ DE AVILES, FOUNDER OF ST. AUGUSTINE. St. Augustine 561 was not until 1564 that Laudonniere, with three vessels and a larg-er number of Hu^ue- nots, came prepared to make a permanent set- tlement of the country. He also came first to the River of Dolphins, and thence to the St. John's, called by them the River May, and after some delay in further explorations of the coast decided to plant his settlement on the St. John's, where he constructed a fort which he named Fort Caroline, on the south bank of the river, a few miles from its mouth. The colony, however, failed to obtain from the soil or the sea sufficient food, and were about abandoning the country in the following- year, when Ribaut arrived with a larger and better class of people, to reinforce Laudonniere's settlement. In the meantime, the Spanish sovereign had learned of these Huguenot expeditions, and of their encroachment upon a territory which he claimed for Spain by right of discovery, and at once set on foot an expedition under the command of Pedro Menendez to drive out of Florida the French Huguenots, w^hose faith he regarded with detestation. Both the French and Spanish fleets came upon the coast of Florida about the same 36 562 St. Augustine time. Ribaut passed St. Augustine and anchored off St. John's bar. Menendez fol- lowed and exchanged a few shots with Ribaut's vessels, and retired to the harbor of St. OLD FORGE. Augustine, where he landed his forces, occupy- ing an Indian village called Selooe, which seems to have stood about half a mile north of the fort, upon a tidal creek. Ribaut, learniny: of the landing*- of Menendez's St. Augustine 563 forces, determined to attack the Spanish vessels, which lay outside because of the low water on the bar, and thus cut off the Spanish force from molesting the French at Fort Caro- line. He had hardly put to sea before he encountered a terrible storm, by which his vessels were driven down the coast and cast ashore, Menendez, being apprised of Ribaut's move- ments, and satisfied that the French vessels would be either driven afar or wrecked on the coast, determined to take the initiative, march across the country and surprise Fort Caroline in its weakened condition, during Ribaut's ab- sence. Guided by natives familiar with the country, he traversed the forty miles of low, flat woods, and reaching his destination in the early morning made a sudden attack upon the French fort and easily captured it. Moved by a morbid hatred of the French Protestants, as intruders on the Spanish territory, and still more as enemies to his faith and hence en- titled to neither mercy nor compassion, most of them were slaugfhtered in the onset, and Menendez caused his prisoners to be hung on the neighboring trees, with an inscription that he did this to them " not as Frenchmen, but as 564 St. Augustine Lutherans." Some twenty or more escaped with Laudonniere to two vessels at the mouth of the river and thence to France. All of Ribaut's vessels havins: been wrecked along the coast between St. Augustine and Canaveral, although most of the people es- caped with their lives, they had no means of reofaininor Fort Caroline or of leavinof the coast for any point of refuge. Wrecked and wretched, they moved northward along the coast, and at Matanzas, an inlet twenty miles below St. Augustine, they were met by Men- endez, who had returned from Fort Caroline, and was informed of their shipwreck and condition b)' natives living along the coast. Ribaut asked safe-conduct, but Menendez re- fused all overtures for terms of surrender, requiring unconditional submission to his will or clemency. The result was that, as fast as the French were brought across the inlet in small parties, he directed that they should all be killed. This sad tragedy is commemorated by the name, still borne by the inlet, Matanzas, the place of slaughter. The French Huguenots thus disposed of, Menendez proceeded to lay out and build his proposed city. A castle and religious house 566 St. Augustine were first constructed, the castle as a protec- tion against the Indians, or the French, should others come. The castle or fort was built of the trunks of trees, in an octagonal shape, near the present fort, and the dwellings were located in the southern portion of the peninsula on which the present city stands. The shoalness of the water on the bar was a protection against an attack by sea, and the bay on one side, and the Maria Sanchez Creek and St. Sebastian River on the other made the town secure against an attack by land. Menendez, having secured the safety of his settlement, returned to Spain, little dreaming of the retribution soon to fall upon his forti- fied posts on the St. John's from the hand of Dominic de Gourgues, who, with a force of some two hundred and fifty men, left France in 1568, with the purpose of avenging the massacre of his countrymen. Arriving on the coast in April, he passed the mouth of the St. John's and brought his three vessels into Cum- berland Sound. Here, communicating with the Indians, whom he found very hostile to the Spaniards, he gathered a large force of Indian allies, attacked the Spanish forts at the mouth of the St. John's River, captured St Augustine 567 them after but little resistance, and then marched against Fort Caroline, changed to San Matteo. Although the fort was well- gar- risoned, the Spanish commander, believing that he was surrounded by a superior force, fled, and De Gourgues captured the fort, meeting with little resistance. In retaliation for the massacre of the Huguenots, he hung his pris- oners to the same trees, with the inscription, burned upon a plank, that he did this " not as to Spaniards, but as to traitors, thieves, and murderers." No further attempt was made by the French to colonize the southern Atlantic coast, and thus ended the sad beginnings of what, under other circumstances, might have proved the es- tablishment of French colonization along our whole Atlantic coast. The annals of St. Augustine during the re- mainder of the life of Menendez present only the usual vicissitudes of new settlements, the alternation of want and supply and occasional disaffections and annoyances by unruly soldiers or hostile Indians. Unluckily for the little city. Sir Francis Drake, in 1586, returning from the coasts of South America, discovered, in passing, the 568 St. Auf^ustine Spanish lookout on Anastasia Island, at the entrance of the harbor. Having sent some boats in, a town across the ba)' was discovered. Durinor the nigflit, a fifer came out to the Heet playing the Prince of Orange march, and in- formed Sir Francis that the Spaniards had abandoned their fort. This report proved to be true, and Sir Francis found that in their haste they had left behind some ten thousand dollars in the treasury chest. Being fired upon by some of the inhabitants, he burned the town. An engraved plan of Drake's descent upon St. Augustine, published in England upon his return, represents an octagonal fort between two streams, and at the distance of half a mile another stream, and beyond that the town, with a lookout and church and monastery. The plan shows three squares lengthwise, and four in breadth, with gardens on the west side. The relative position of the town with refer- ence to the entrance to the harbor is correctly shown, and there seems no sufficient o-round to doubt the identity of the present city with the original location. The province was then under the govern- ment of Don Pedro Menendez, a nephew of the 570 St. Augustine Adelantado, who, after the departure of the Enehsh fleet under Drake, beiran, with some assistance from Havana, to rebuild the town. A body of F"ranciscan missionaries came to Florida in 1592, and established missions among- the Indians at various points along the coast and in the interior. For a time consid- erable apparent success attended these efforts ; but a few years later a concerted attack was made by the Indians upon the missionaries, several of whom were massacred at their posts. Hostilities became active in 1638 between the Appalachian Indians and the Spanish settle- ments upon the coast. The Indians were soon subdued, large numbers were brought to St. Augustine, and as a punishment for their out- break they were forced to labor— it is said for sixty years — upon the public works and the fortifications, in quarrying and transporting the coquina stone from Anastasia Island. About this period the English settlements in Carolina were established, which was con- sidered an encroachment upon the territory claimed by the Spanish Crown by virtue of discovery and occupation. Unfriendly feelings speedily grew up between the English and Spanish colonies, embittered by difference of St Au2:ustine 571 'fe religious faith and an inherited rancor on both sides. In 1648, St. Augustine is described as hav- ing more than three hundred householders, and containing a flourishing monastery of the Order of St. Francis, with fifty brothers in res- idence, all zealous for the conversion of the Indians. The parish Church was built of wood. But the poor little city was destined not to rest in peace. In 1665, one hundred years from its foundation, it was visited by Captain Davis, an English buccaneer and free-booter, of a class then numerous in those seas. He landed his forces near the city, marched directly upon the town, looted and plundered it with- out meeting, it is said, with any resistance from the Spanish garrison in the fort, which num- bered some two hundred men-at-arms. The easy capture of the town by this casual free- booter indicated the necessity for stronger fortifications and better means of resistance. The Castle of San Marco had been com- menced and partly constructed by the labor of the Appalachian Indians, no doubt very slowly and unwillingly rendered. Don Juan Marquez de Cabrera, having been appointed 5/2 St. Augustine Governor in 1681, at once applied himself to the completion of the castle and other forti- fications. The English settlements in Carolina con- tinued to create much dissatisfaction. The Spanish Crown claimed the whole Atlantic coast as their province of Florida, and it is so designated on ancient maps, even including Delaware and Pennsylvania, then being settled by Penn and his colonists. An attack was made in 1681 on a Scotch and English settle- ment at Port Royal by three armed galleys sent out from St. Augustine. Many of the English colonists lost their lives, and much property was destroyed, which later led to bitter retaliation. Menendez, by his contract with the Spanish Crown, had been authorized to take to Florida five hundred negro slaves, but did not avail himself of the privilege, and it was not until 1687 that one Captain de Aila brought the first Spanish negro slave into Florida. Later the inhabitants of Carolina complained that the authorities at St. Augustine seduced and harbored their runaway slaves, which was not denied, but justified by the claim that they did it for the eood of the souls of the negroes. 574 St. Augustine Hostilities havinij broken out between Ene- land and Spain, and a bitter feeling already existing between the English in Carolina and the Spaniards in Florida, Governor Moore, of South Carolina, led an expedition into Florida in 1 702, and with a considerable force made an attack upon St. Augustine by sea and by land. He easily captured the town, and the in- habitants retired to the fort, where they were besieged for over a month. For want of heavier guns, Moore was unable to capture the fort, and had to retire ; not, however, till he had committed the useless barbarity of burn- ing the town. Upon the departure of the English forces, the inhabitants gladly set to work to repair or rebuild their ruined homes. About this period the building of a sea wall Avas begun, to protect the town from the en- croachment of the sea, and leisurely proceeded for many years. Portions of this ancient wall may yet be seen within the present wall, which was built by the United States after the change of flag^s. In 1704, Governor Moore again appeared before the old city, and partially destroyed its habitations, but was unable to make any im- pression on the stalwart castle. Bad feelings St. Augustine 575 were reciprocally held for many years by the English in Carolina and the Spaniards in Florida. In the meantime, another English settlement having been made in Georgia by General Ogle- thorpe, the English drew nearer to Florida and occupied a country still claimed by the Spanish Crown. The Spanish Governor noti- fied Oglethorpe to depart, and gave indica- tions of a forcible attempt to dispossess the new colony. Oglethorpe determined to be beforehand with the Spaniards, and organized an expedition made up from his own colony and Carolina, and proceeded to invest St. Augustine by sea and by land. The town was now, however, better fortified, and the Castle had been greatly strengthened. Ogle- thorpe's batteries on Anastasia Island were too light to make an impression upon the walls of San Marco, the soft rock imbedding his balls without injury. The siege lasted thirty-eight days, but, being unable to reduce the Castle, Oglethorpe at last gave up the attempt, and withdrew his forces. The marks of his can- nonade may still be seen on the eastern walls of the fort. The repeated outbreaks of the Indians and 576 St. Augustine the inroads of the EngHsh had discouraged all attempts at cultivation in the vicinity, and the city remained little more than a garrison town, until, by the Treaty of 1 762, Florida was ceded to the English Crown. The Spanish in- habitants nearly all left with the garrison for Cuba. The English flag was raised upon the Castle of San Marco, and an English Governor, an Encrlish crarrison and Enirlish colonists came in to occupy the city and the province. Judicious measures were at once taken to ad- vance the interest and growth of the city and the two Floridas. Bounties were offered for the production of indigo and naval stores, and a considerable commerce at once grew up. Roads were opened, and settlements made in the interior and on the coast. Durinof the twenty years of English occupation extensive barracks were erected in the city, which was much built up and improved ; and, could it have remained under the English flag, Florida would have been as well populated and as prosperous as the other colonies of England in America. The acknowledgment of the inde- pendence of her other colonies, which had organized a confederacy against her rule, ren- dered Florida of little consequence as a small St Augustine 577 and isolated colony, and, in 1783, England ceded Florida back to Spain. As a consequence of this recession and change of government, the English inhabitants nearly all left for Carolina and Georgia or the British West India Islands. St. Auofustine fell back into its old condition of a garrison town ; the works of improvement begun by the English were abandoned, and the old city renewed its sleepy existence. There was in- deed some attempt by land grants to induce immigration, but with no great result. So things went until 181 2, when, fearing that England intended to acquire Florida, which would be a menace to the interests of the United States, President Monroe, under a resolution of Congress, ordered troops into Florida. St. Augustine was threatened, but not conquered or reduced. The country was raided, plantations were devastated, and much injury done before the United States troops were recalled. Finally, Spain was worried into an agreement to sell Florida to the United States for a pecuniary compensation. In the year 182 1, the Spanish flag, planted at St. Augustine in 1565, was hauled down finally, and the Stars and Stripes waved over 578 St. Augustine the Castle of San Marco, which by a senseless order was renamed Fort Marion, which name it now bears. The Spanish inhabitants gen- erally remained, and their descendants still constitute the larger portion of the resident population of the ancient city. Under Amer- ican rule people from the adjoining States came in and began to establish settlements, but the Indian tribes still held possession of the largest portion of the territory. In 1835, the Seminole Indian War broke out; for seven years hostilities were maintained, and it was not until 1842 that peace was re- stored. St. Augustine suffered with the rest of the territory, and little progress was made in population or prosperity. It still remained the leading town, though that did not mean much, and when the war was over other towns, notably Jacksonville, grew into importance. Some invalids, not many, came for a winter's sojourn, but there was little change until the Civil War. At an early day Commodore Du- pont came into the harbor with his armed vessels, and the town was quietly surrendered, supplied with a garrison, and went into an en- forced apathy from which it never emerged until the war was over. S^'^o St. Augustine After 1865, a new era sprang up for St. Au- gustine ; railroad communication was opened to Tocoi, on the St. John's, and, later on, to Jacksonville. Winter visitors began to come in large numbers, and hotels on a large scale were built. Finally, Mr. H. M. Flagler be- came interested in the old city, and built the famous and most beautiful Ponce de Leon, the Alcazar, and the Cordova, with many other handsome buildings. He purchased and im- proved the railroad, filled in the marshes of the St. Sebastian, and erected a new city alongside of the old. The population has been doubled, and its attractions have greatly increased. A railway system has been estab- lished, taking in the whole east coast of Florida as far down as Miami, with connecting lines of steamers to Key West, Havana and Nassau. Few towns can now boast of more attractive residences, and none of such mao^nificent hotels for the solace of the traveler. After a varied existence of over three centuries, the ancient city has put on a new life of elegance and prosperity. Dear old city ! how many sweet associations it has for the many thousands who have visited it in these past years ! How many walks on St. Augustine 581 the sea wall ; how many boat rides on its placid waters ; how many excursions into its meander- ing creeks, and strolls along the beach of Anastasia Island ; how many cozy corners in the loggia of the Ponce de Leon, and the corridors of the Alcazar, come at the call of memory ! The gray and time-worn old Castle of San Marco, with its gloomy portals and dark cham- bers, seems in a moment to carry the visitor back three centuries to another people and another age. People may come, and people may go, but the old Castle will remain for centuries, a memorial to the long-past age of the Spanish monarchy in America. INDEX Academy, the French, 170 Acropolis, the, 165 Act of Secession, 165 Adair, address of, 340 Adams, John, 87 ; and the na- tional capital, 125 ; quoted, 88, 128, 148, 204 Adams, J. Q., 93, 140 Adams, Louisa J., 93 Adams, Mrs. John, 128, 135 Adams, Samuel, and the Stamp Act, 196 Addison's Cato, 269 Advance, the, 246 Advertiser, the Edgefield, xxviii, note Agassiz, 273 Alabama, settlement of, 356 ; see also Mobile and^ Mont- gomery ; Sevier buried in, 463 Alabama Convention, 402 Alabama Platform, 399 Alabama Staan, the, 392 "Alabama Town," 382, 3S4 Albemarle, the, 250, 251 Alexandria and the national capital, 116 Alferez Real, the, 424 Algonquins, lOI, I02 Alibamons, 335, 340 Alice, the, 366 Allan, John, 174 Allen, James Lane, 534 Allen, Rev. Bennett, 80 Allston, Washington, 275 Almonester, Don Andres, 424, 425. America, the, 22 American Notes, Dickens's, 521 Anacostan, loi Anacostia, loi, 146 Anacostian River, 105 Anastasia, 570, 575 Andersen, Hans, quoted, 68 Anderson, Colonel, 371 Anderson, D. C, 362 Anderson, Gen. Robt., 505 Anderson, Mary, 534 Ann, the, 300, 324 Annalist, the, 455 Annapolis, 12, 75, 79 ; Sara An- drew Shaferon, 47-73 ; settle- ment, 47-53 ; the first church, 53-56 ; the first school, 57 ; the State House, 58 ; the Rev- olution, 59 ; historic homes, 61-66 ; U. S. Naval Academy, 68-73 Annapolis Convention, the, 20I 583 584 Index Anne Arundel, 52, 53 Anstill's night ride, 355 Antietam, battle of, 94 Antigua, 276 Apalaches, 341 Appalachian Indians, 570, 571 Arhulhnot, 290 Arizona, 478 Ari, the, i, 50 Arkansas, 335 ; see Little Rock Arkansas Indians, 539, 540 Arlington, 14S Armstrong, James, 455 Arnold, Benedict, in Richmond, 161 Arthur, President, 320 Asbury, Bishop, quoted, 82 Ashe, Col. John, 238, 240-242 "Ashland," 505, 531 Ashley, Chester, 548, 549, 552 Ashley River, 251, 252 Athens, 494 Atlanta, Ga., xvi Atlanta, the, 324 Audubon, John J., 273, 504, 518 Augusta, Ga., xxv Avar, tomb of, 413 B Bacon, Nathaniel, 164, 191, 192 Bahamas, the, 251 Bainbridge, Peter, 83 Baker's Creek, battle at, 443 Baldwin, M. J. D., 360 Baltimore, xix, xxix, 79, 108, 130, 325. 436; St. George L. Sioussat on, 1-45 ; early towns, 5 ; the Act of 1 709, 7 ; union with Jonas town, 8 ; 1709-1754, 10"; growth of for- eign trade, 12 ; the French and Indian War, 14-18 ; before the Revolution, 18-21 ; in the Revolution, 21-28 ; Kennedy's description of old, 28-32 ; growth before the War of 1812, 32-36; in the War of 1812, 36-3S ; internal improvements, 38 ; divided during Civil War, 39-41 ; higher life of, 41-45 Baltimore, Lords, 1-3, 21, 51, 52 Baltimore, the, 11 Baltimore & Ohio R. R., 39 Bancroft, George, 70 ; quoted, 199, 264 Barbadoes, 229, 251 Barbe, Marie, 358 Barnett, Rev. John, 233 Barton Academy, 359 Bartow, Francis S., 322 Bartram's Botanical Expedition, 344 Bas Fonde, 330 Bassett, 213 Bate, Gen. Wm. B., 498 Bath, N. C, 223, 224 Bathori, S., 154 Battle Monument, 18 Bayliss, Mrs., 141 Bazares, exploration of, 330 Beall, Joseph, S3 Beall, Samuel, 83 Beatty, Thomas, S3 Beaudrat, execution of, 339 Beaufort, N. C, 223 Beckly, J. J., 208 Bell, John, 491 Bell House, 169 Bellimi, Charles, 214 Belvidere, 35 Benjamin, S. G. W., 275 Benton, T. H., 464, 490 Beresford, Richard, 271 Berkeley, Sir Wm., 164, 191, 192 Bernhard, Duke of Saxe- Wei- mar, 358 Bertrand, 357, 358 Bethesda, Ga., 311 Bethlehem, 26 Beulah, Augusta Evans's, 362 Bienville, 332, 333, 335, 338, 340-342, 357, 416, 418, 424 Big Black, battle at, 443, 444 Big Rock, 541 Index 585 " Big Salt Lick," 483 Bigbee, 344 Bill of Rights, 204 Biloxi, 332, 338, 417, 434 Black Beard, 230 Bladensburg, battle of, 132 Blair, John, 214 Blair, Wm., 83 Blakeley, 354, 3^9 Bland, Richard, 199 Bledsoe's Lick, 479 Bloody Marsh, 316 Blount, Gov.Wm., 451, 453-4-55, 458, 462, 463 Blount, Mary Grainger, 454 Blount College, 458, 461 Boiling, Jane, 159 Bonnet, Stead, 230, 231, 258 Boone, Daniel, 480. 486, 504, 508, 509 Booth, J. B., 363 Bordley, 16 Bordley House, 63 Borland, Solon, 548 Boston, 21, 240, 315 Botetourt, Lord, 207 Boucher, Rev. Jonathan, 19 Bourbon County organized, 437 Bourbons, the, 357 " Boz," see Dickens Braddock, General, 14, 78, 79, 115 Bragg, General, 470 Bray, Rev. Dr., 54 Brewton, Miles, 260 Brice Mansion, 62 British, attack Washington, 131- 136; at Wilmington, N. C, 242 ; besiege Charleston, 264, 266 ; attack Fort Bowyer, 355; in the Southwest, 5 10-51 2 Brooklyn, the, 370 Brooks, Walter, 440 Brown, Governor, of Georgia, 323 Brownlow, Wm. G., 466-469 Brunswick, N. C, 223, 232-234, 239, 242 Buchanan, Admiral, 371 Buchanan, Dr. George, 40 Buell, General, 496, 498 Buford, Colonel, quoted, 402 Bunker Hill, battle of, 315 Burgoyne's surrender, 511 Burke, Edmund, 316 ; quoted, 286 Burnside at Knoxville, 470, 472 Burr, Aaron, at Richmond, 174; capture of, 353 ; at Nashville, 492 ; at Louisville, 530 Burwell, Hon. Lewis, 190 Burwell, Lucy, 190 Bush River, 5, 6 Byrd, Col. Wm., 155, I57 Byrd, Col. William Evelyn, founds Richmond, 156-158 ; visits Edenton, 224 Byrd, Evelyn, 158 Byron quoted, 509 Cabildo, the Spanish, 428, 431 Cabot discovers North America, 151 Cairo, 111., 335. 361, 52i Calamata, 154 Caldwell, Joshua W., on Knox- ville, 449-475 Calhoun, John C, 140, 464 Calvert, Cecilius, 21 Calvert, Charles, 78 ; quoted, 2 Calvert, Frederick, 78, 79 Calverts, the, 48-50 Campbell, Colonel, defeats Gen. Robert Howe, 317 Campbell, General, in West Florida, 346, 347 Campbell, John A., 362 Canada, 331, 334 Canal, the Isthmian, 438 Canby captures Blakeley, 372, 374 Canoe Fight, the, 355 Cantonment, the, 356 Cape Clear, 320 586 Index Cape Fear, 220 Cape Hatteras, 220, 262 Cape Lookout, 220 Capitol, at Richmond, 1 62-170 Capitol the national, 121-124; north wing completed, 126 ; Ijurned by the t5ritish, 134; rebuilt, 137 ; dome raised, 142 Cardross, Lord, 250 Carlton, Hon. Walter G., quoted, 307 Carolina, the, 250, 251 Carr, Capt. John, 38S Carr, Dabney, igg Carrick, Rev. Samuel, 461 Carroll, Charles, 7, S, iS, 40, 60, 66 Carroll, Daniel, 7, 8, 88, 122 Carrolls, the, 77, 79 Carrollton, 66, 79 Carter, John, 451 Cary, Archibald, 201, 204 Castle Garden, centennial cele- brated at, 269 Cat Island, 339 Cathedral, the New Orleans, 425, 429, 431 Caio, Addison's, first rendered in Philadelphia, 269 Catoctin, 76, 79 Cavet's blockhouse, 460 Cawein, Madison, 534 Cayuga, the, 368 Cedar Point R'y, 359 Celeste, Madame, 363 Census of 1890, xv Cervera, 256 Chamberlain, Gov. D, H., quoted, 284 Champion Hills, battle at, 443 Chandler, Bishop, quoted, 310 Chandler, Daniel, 362 Chandler, Mrs., 362 Charles L, 48, 199 Charles IL, 290 Charleston, xvi, xix et seq.: Yates Snowden on, 249—292 ; first permanent settlement. 250-252 ; Spanish attack on, 256-259; in 1773, 259; the St. Cecilia Society, 260 ; in the Revolution, 262-267 ; af- ter the Revolution, 267-271 ; the Augustan Age, 272 ; eco- nomic and commercial history of, 276-279 ; in the Civil War, 279-286 ; churches of, 286- 291 Charleston & Hamburg R'y Co., xxii Charleville, M., 478 Charlton, R. M., 323 Charpentier's Battery, 364 Chase, Samuel, 40, 88 Chase House, 63 Chastellux quoted, 162 Chateaugue, 338 Chatham Artillery, 320 Chaudron, Madame, 377 Cheatham, Frank, 498 Chellum Castle Manor, 120 Cherokees, and Mobile, 336 ; Governor Blount's treaty with, 453 ff-! ^^'^'^ with, 45S-461, 479 ; and Nashville, 486 Chesapeake Bay, i, 152, 522 ; explored by Capt. John Smith, 48 Chesapeake & Ohio Canal, 39 Chesapeake & Ohio R. R., 216 Cheshire, Bishop J. B., on Wil- mington, N. C., 219-247 Chester, Governor, 344 Chesterfield quoted, 310 Chicago, xvi Chicagou, 413 Chickamaugas, 4S2 Chickasabogue, 341 Chickasaws, 332, 335, 336 340, 488 Chimborazo Park, 181 Chiskiack, 188, 190 Choctaws, 332, 334, 336, 339, 340. 355 ; name Mobile Bay, 328 ; Congress of 1765, 345 Christ Church, Newbern, 233 Index 587 Christmas, Timrod's, 2SS Cincinnati, 517, 521 Civil War, see individual towns Clark, George Rogers, in the Southwest, 504, 509-513, 516 Clark, Joseph, 122 Clarke, James Freeman, and George Keats, 525 Clausal, Comte, 357, 35S Clay, Henry, 140, 464, 490 ; the Hart statues of, 168, 531 ; at Mobile, 363 ; at Louisville, 505 Clayton, H. D., quoted, 400 Clerissault, M., 164 Clertiiont^ Fulton's, 357 Cleveland, President, 320 Clifford, Justice, 550 Cockburn, Admiral, 67, 134 Codorus Creek suggested for site of national capital, ill, 112 Coffee, General, 490 Coligny, Admiral, 559 CoUen, Williamson, 122 Colonial Dames, Georgia So- ciety of, 307 Colonial Exchange, Charleston, 286 Columbia, S. C, xxii Columbus, Christopher, 507 ; map attributed to, 329 Compton, Spencer, 235 Conewago, 10 Confederate Literary Memorial Society, 180 Confederate States Congress, 165 Confederation, the, 400 Congress, the Continental, 106, 160, 203, 240-242, 313 ; and the national capital, 109-116 ; makes appropriation to Wil- liam and Mary College, 216 ; of 1765, 345 ; organizes terri- torial government of Missis- sippi, 437 Congressional Library, 44 Conogocheague, 108, 116 Constitution, of Virginia, 204 ; of United States quoted, 113 Conventicle Act of 1642 in Vir ginia, 51 Conventions : Southern com- mercial conventions, xxiv.- xxvi. ; the Virginia Con- vention of 1775, 160; Wil- liamsburg, 201, 204 ; Annap- olis, 201 ; of 1787, 201, 453 ; Alabama, 402 ; Tennessee, 462 Conway, Henry W., 54S Copley, Sir Lionel, 52 Copley, the artist, 274 Copus's Harbor, 10 "Corn Island," 512, 513 Cornwallis, surrender of, 106, 165, 187, 216 ; at Wilmington, N. C, 243 Cosa, 330 Cossacks, the, 136 Cotton production in the South, xvii, 277 Cotton Patch, y^i Cotton Plant, the, 357 Courier- yournal, Louisville, 534 Courtenay, Hon. W. A., quoted, 277 Cowpens, battle of, 26, 84 " Crackers," the, xvi Craig, Major, 242, 243 Cranham Church, 316 Crawford, F. Marion, 166 Crawford's statue of Washing- ton, 166, 168 Crayon Papers, the, 516 Creeks, 334-336, 339, 355, 381, 383, 463 ; war with the, 354, 357 ; attack Knoxville, 459- 461, 486 Cresap, Capt. Michael, 84 Crisp, Speaker, 363 Crittenden, 548, 552 " Croftown," 346 Cromwell, 199, 468 Cuba, 346 ; war in, 376 Cummins, E., 54S 588 Index •Cummins, W., 548 Cushman, Charlotte, 363 Custis, " Jacky," 19 Dabney, Virginius, quoted, 249 Dahlgren attacks Charleston, 290 Dargan, E. S., 362 Darnell, John, 83 Darwin, Charles, 272 *' Daughters of the American Revolution," 465 D'Aubant, Madame, 340 Dauphine Island, 328, 330, 332, 334, 336, 338- 341, 345, 346, 356. 359, 371 Davidson Academy, 489 Davion on the Mississippi, 334 Davis, Capt., 571 Davis, George, quoted, 220 Davis, Jefferson, 180, 364, 440, 506, 532 ; monument to, 178 ; at Montgomery, 394 ; inaugu- ration of, 40S de Aila, Capt., 572 Dean, Julia, 363 Dearborn Island, 136 de Beaurepaire, 170 De Bouf s Revie~ii>^ xix de Cabrera, 571 de Charlevoix, Father, quoted, 540 Declaration of Independence, 87, 147, 201, 203, 204, 270 Declaration of Rights of 1776, 204 Defense, the, 22 de Gourgnes, Dominic, 566 De Graffenreid, 228 De Kalb, Baron, 60 de la Harpe, Bernard, 541 de Lauzun, Due, 24 Delaware River and the national capital. III, 112 de Leon, Juan Ponce, 559 De Leon, T. C, 377 de Luna, Tristan, 330 de Lusser, Madame, 341 De Monbreun, Timothy, 479 de Navarro, Mary Anderson, 534 Denbigh, the, 366 de Rosset, Louis, 236 de Rosset, Moses John, 236, 238 Desmoulins, Camille, 93 De Soto, Hernando, 302, 330, 413, 415, 416, 541 d'Estaing, 298, 318, 325 Detroit, British at, 510 de Vaudreuil, Marquis, 422 Dew, Wells's theory of, 271 Dewey, Admiral George, 465 Dexter, Andrew, 381, 382, 397 Dexter, Samuel, 381 D'Hughes, 85 Dickens, Charles, quoted, iii, 138, 159 ; at Louisville, 520- 522 Dickinson College, 208 Dickson, Thomas, 83 Dieppe, 249 Digges, Dudley, 120 Diligence, the, 239, 240 Discovery, the, 151 District of Columbia, see Wash- ington Ditty, Mrs., 141 Dixon and the torpedo, 280 Dobbs, Gov. Arthur, 234 Donelson, Capt. John, and the settlement of Nashville, 482^. Donelson, Rachel, 482 Don yuan, Byron's, quoted, 509 Do}t Miff, Dabncy's, quoted, 249 Dorchester, Ga., 312 Douglass, Major H. Kyd, 95 Dove, the, i, 50 Dow, Lorenzo, 353 Doyle quoted, 259 Drake, Sir F., 259, 331, 567 Draper, Sir Wm., 14 Drayton, quoted, 15 1 Drayton, W. H., 271, 272 Drummond, Governor, execu- tion of, 192 Index 589 Diiblin University Magazine, 212 Du Bois, Father John, 93 Du Bose quoted, 399 Dulany. Daniel, 66 ; note, 79 Dulany, murder of, 82 Dulanys, home of the, 73 Dunlap, Wm., 269 Dunmore, Lord, 161 Dupont attacks Charleston, 290 ; St Augustine surrenders to, 578 Du Pratz quoted, 540 Durnford, Governor, 343, 347 Durrett, Col. Reuben T., 532 Duval, Wm. P., 516 Early, Gen. Jubal A., attacks Washington, 141 " East Alabama Town," 383 East Knoxville, 466 Ebenezer, Ga., 297 Ecunchatty, 381, 4io Edenton, N. C, 238 ; Bisjiop T B. Cheshire on, 223-228 Edict of Nantes, Revocation of, 290 Edmonson, Colonel, 389 Ege, Jacob, 159 ^ . Eggleston, Edward, at Louis- Ellicott, Andrew, 352 ; and the planning of Washington, 119 Elliott, Stephen, 272 Elmore, Capt. Rush, 398 Emmerson, Thos. 457 Endymion, Keats's, 525 England and treaty of see British English, explorations of the, 331 ; in the Ohio Valley, 335 ; possession of Mobile, 342- 347 ; see also British Ennalls, Mr., 213 Enquirer, the Richmond, xxvu Eslava, Don Miguel, 348 1763, Estelle Hall, 3^-9. 402 Etowah, battle of, 461 Eugene, Prince, of Savoy, 315 Eutaw, Colonel Howard at, 26 Evans, Augusta, 362 ; see also Wilson Everhart, Sergeant Laurence, 84 Expose Jiistificatif, Bertrand's, 357 Fairbanks, G. R., on St. Au- gustine, 557-581 " Fairregret," see Farragut Falconer, John, 381 Fanning, David, 243 Farmer, Major Robert, occupies. Fort Chartres, 345 Farragut, Admiral, xxx, 465 ; at Mobile, 369-371 Farragut, George, 4^5 Fearon, H. B., 520, 524 Feilden, Col. H. W., quoted,. 282 Fell, 27 Fell, Edward, 8-10 Fell, Wm., 10 Fell's Point, 10, 24, 41 "Fighting Parson," .ftv Brown- low Filipina, 330 Fisk University, 500 Fitch, John, 504 File, Jacob, 24 Flagler, H. M., 580 Fleet, Henry, quoted, 102 Fleming, John, 7 Flora Caroliniana, 272 Florida, 34i ; annexed, 207 ; Spain in, 330, 347 ; French occupy, 331, 332 ; English troops in, 346 ; ^^'^ ^"'^ ^^ Augustine Florida, the, 366-368 Foley's statue of Stonewall. Jackson, 170 Forrest, Edwin, 363 590 Index Forrest, Clen. N. R., 496 Forsyth, John, 363 Forts : Biloxi, 338 ; liowyer, 355. SSC) : Caroline, 561-567; Charles, 155, 560; Charlotte, 342, 351 ; Chartres, 33S, 345 ; Conde, 338, 341, 342 ; Donel- son, 496 ; Gaines, 362, 369, 371 ; Halifax, 294 ; Johnston, 241; Loudon, 449; Louis de la Mobile, 332 ; Marion, 57S ; McDermott, 374 ; McHenry, 22, 37, 92 ; Maurepas, 332 ; Mifflin, 26 ; Minims, 354 ; Morgan, 362, 366, 369, 372 ; Moultrie, xxx, 266 ; Natchez, 338 ; Natchitoches, 338 ; New Orleans, 338 ; Patrick Henry, 482 ; Pulaski, 322-324 ; Red, 374; Ridley, 4S5; St. Stephen, 350, 352, 353 : Saunders, 471, 472 ; Severn, 67 ; Sidney John- son, 368 ; Spanish, 372, 374 ; Stoddert, 353 ; Sumter, xix, xxx, 280, 282, 505 ; Tom- becbe, 335, 33S ; Toulouse, 335, 338-340, 354; White's, 451 Fottrell, Edward, 16 Fountain Inn, 24 Fowler, Abraham, 548, 552 France, 173 ; acquires the St. Lawrence and Florida, 331 ; in the Mississippi Valley, 334, 414, 416, 433 ; and Mobile, 345, 348 ; and treaty of 1763, 422 ; re-acquires New Orleans, 428 Franklin, battle of, 497 Franklin, Benjamin, at Fred- erick, Md., 78; quoted, 310 Franklin College, 311 Franklin Library, 158 Frascati, 36S Phaser, Charles, 275 Frederica, Cia., 297, 316 Frederick, Prince of Wales, 78 Frederick Town, xxix ; Sara Andrew Shafer on, 75-99 ; settlement, 75-78 ; French and Indian War, 78 ; resist- ance to the Stamp Act, 82 ; Revolution, 84 ; Thos. John- son, 86-S9 ; Francis Scott Key, 90-92 ; visit of Lafayette, 93 ; Civil War, 94 ; Barbara Frietchie legend, 96-98 Freeland Station, Indians at- tack, 487 P'rench, Daniel, 517 French, the, st't' France French and Indian War, 14, 78, 196, 342, 434 French Lick, the, 479, 481 French Revolution, 477 Fritchie, Barbara, 96-98 Fritchie, John, 97 Fulton, Robert, 357, 504, 517 J^ It n da III c n t a I Constitutions. Locke's, 254 G Gadsden, Christopher, 271 Gait House, Dickens at the, 522 Galvez, rules Louisiana, 346 ; attacks Mobile, 347, 372 Garay, Governor, 329 Gardner, Capt. Samuel, 15 Garrett's Public Men quoted, 397 Gates, Sir Thomas, 151 Gazette, Maryland, 42 ; Phila- delphia, 83 ; Virginia, 156 ; South Carolina, 269 ; Knox- ville, 457 Gentry, Meredith P., 490 George I., 195 George III., 78, 342 Georgetown, Va., 117, 124, 128. 148 ; and national capital, 114 Georgia, gold region of, 331 ; organizes Bourbon County in Mississippi, 437 ; see also Sa- vannah Georgia Central R'y, 294, 322 Index 591 German Relief Hall, Mobile, 339 Germantown and the national capital, 108, 113 Gettysburg, 470, 472 Ghent, treaty of, 356 Gibbes, 273 Gibson, Randall L., defends Spanish Fort, 372, 374 Gillmore, Gen., reduces Fort Pulaski, 324 Gilman, Daniel C., 42 Gilmer, Governor, quoted, 391 Gist, Gen. Mordecai, 26 Glasgow, Yorktown trade with, 187 Glassell and the torpedo, 280 Godfrey, Thomas, 244 God Speed, the, 151 Goliad, the surrender at, 395 Goodhue, 109 Goose Creek and the national capital, 104, 105 G. A. R. at Louisville, 506 Granger, General, 372 Grant, Gen. U. S., xxix, xxx, 472, 498 ; and the defence of Washington, 142 ; besieges Vicksbiirg, 435, 442-446 Great Britain, see British and England Greene, Gen. N., in Georgia, 298, 303, 306 ; quoted, 26 Grimke, John F., 271 Grundy, Felix, 490 Guilford, Col. Howard at, 26 Guion, Gov. John J., 440 H Habersham, James, 312, 314, 315 Hackett, J. H., 363 Hadfield, George, 125 Hakluyt, 249 Haldimand, General, papers of, 344 Hall, Dr. Lyman, and St. John's Parish, Ga., 313, 314 Hallam, Lewis, 212 Hallam, Miss, 212 Hallett, Stephen L., and the national capital, 121, 122, 125 Hamburg, Germany, xxviii Hamburg, S. C, xxviii Hamilton, A., and the national capital, 113, 114 Hamilton, Peter, 362 Hamilton, Peter J., on Mobile, 327-378 Hampden-Sidney College, 208 Hampton, Va., 187 Harnett, C. , 240, 242, 244 " Harop," 190 Harriet, the, 357, 393 Harris, Isham G., 466 Harrison, President Wm. H.,214 Harrodsburg, Ky., 510 Hart, Joel T., statues of Henry Clay, 168, 531 Hartford, the, 370, 371 Harvard College, 206, 311 Harvey, Sir John, 187 Harvy-town, 4 Havana, 256, 424 Hawkins, 331 Hawthorne, 509 Hayne, Col. Arthur, 389 Hayne, Col. Isaac, 286 Hayne, Paul Hamilton, 273 Hayne, Robt. Y., xxiii Hempstead, Samuel H., 54S, 550 Henfrey, 182 Henry, Patrick, 87, 168, 191 ; at Williamsburg, 196, 197 ; and George Rogers Clark, 511 : quoted, 161 Henry, W. W., on Richmond, 15I7183 Hermitage, the, 491-493 Heroine, the, 366 Herrington, 4 Hewatt, 258 Hewes, Joseph, 228 592 Index Hey ward, Thos., 270 Higginson, Capt. R., 190 Hilliard and Yancey, 399 Hitchcock's Press, 359 Hoban, James, plans the White House, 122, 125, 126, 137 Hodgson describes Mobile in 1S20, 359 Holbrook, 273 Hollywood, 180 Holmes, O. W., at Frederick, 94 Holt, Atty.-Gen. Joseph, 440 Hood, (jeneral, 497 Hood, Zachariah, 83 Hooper, George, 236 Hooper, Wm., 236, 241, 242 Hoosier Tales, Eggleston's, 530 Hope, James Barron, 16S Horse Shoe Bend, battle of, 355. 3S4 Houdon, his statue of Washing- ton, 165, 166 ; his bust of La- fayette, 173 Won^hXons Life of Keats, 525 Houston, Sam, 465. 490 Houston, Wm., 238 How he Saved St. MichaeVs, 28S Howard, Col. J. E., 26, 27, 35 ; quoted, 37 Howard's Park, 36 Howe, Gen. Robt., at Savannah, 317, 318, 324 Hugh, Andrew, 83 Huguenots, in America, 249, 250, 559 ff. ; at Charleston, 269, 290 Humphreys Creek, 6 Hunter, Father, 80 Hunter, Senator R. M. T., 168 Iberville, 332, 416 Illinois, 334 Indigo, cultivation of, in the South, xvii, 277, 576 Ingle, Edward, xxv Innes, James, 236 Iredell, James, 227, 238, 242 Iroquois, the, 76, 478 Irving, Washington, visits Louis- ville, 514-516, 522, 530 Italians brought to Georgia, 304 J Jackson, Andrew, xxx, 466, 489, 490 ; at Mobile, 355, 356, 363 ; at New Orleans, 423 ; and Hugh L. White, 464; resi- dence of, 483, 491 ; his old age, 492 ; at Louisville, 531 Jackson, Gen. Wm. H., 498 Jackson, Rachel Donelson, 482, 491, 492 Jackson, Stonewall, xxix, 94, 95, 98 ; Foley's statue of, 170 Jackson, Thomas J., see Stone- wall Jackson Jacksonville, Florida, 578 Jamaica, 329 James, Henry, quoted, 509 James River, 151, 152, 154, 156, 159 Jamestown, Va., 300, 331 ; settle- ment of, 152. 154, 155, 185, 186 ; in Bacon's Rebellion, 191, 192, 194 ; comjiared with St. Augustine, 557 Jasper, Sergeant, 298, 299, 303, 318 Jefferson, Thomas, 88, 122, 130, 168, 311 ; and the site of the national capital, 1 13-1 15 ; and the Declaration of Indepen- dence, 201, 203, 204 ; at Wil- liam and Mary College, 207, 214; quoted, 4, 164-166 Jennings, Edmund, 72 Jesuits in the Mississippi Valley, 334 John of Argyle, 315 Johns Hopkins Hospital, 42, 43 Johns Hopkins University 42^ 43 Index 593 Johnson, Andrew, 284 ; im- peachment of, 467-469 Johnson, Charles, 228 Johnson, Dr., 316 Johnson, Gov. Sir Nathaniel, 257 Johnson, Thomas, 59, 85-89, 93 Johnston, Gen. J. E., 188, 216, 372 ; at Vicksburg, 443 Johnston, Gov. Gabriel, 228, 231, 235, 238 Johnston, Samuel, 228, 242 Joliet, 331 Jonas town, 8, 41 Jones, Charles, 83 Jones, Col. C. C, quoted, 309, 312, 316 Jones, Commodore Thos. Ap- Catesby, 70 Jones, Rev. Hugh, quoted, 208- 211 Jones's Falls, 7, 18 Jones's Point, 116 Joppa, 6 Jouett, Matthew H., 531 Journal, Louisville, 505, 532 Jubilee Singers, the, 500 Juchereau, 335 K Kaskaskia, G. R. Clark attacks, 511 Kean, Charles, 363 Keats, George, at Louisville, 504, 524-530 Keats, Isabella, 528-530 Keats, John, and George Keats, 504, 524 Kennedy, Hon. John P., quoted, 28-32 Kentucky, xxi, xxii ; see Louis- ville Key, Francis Scott, 37, 91, 395 Key, John Ross, 84 Kiawah, the Cacique of, 250 King, Grace, on New Orleans, 411- 431 38 King William's School, 56 Kinsale, 251 Klinck, John G., quoted, 382- 384 Kneller, Sir Godfrey, 158 Knox, Gen. Henry, Knoxville named for, 451, 455 Knoxville, J. W. Caldwell on, 449-475 ; genesis of, 449-451; Gov. Blount, 451-454 ; Indian treaty of 1791, 454; legisla- tive act of 1794, 455 ; the first mayor, 457 ; Blount College founded, 458 ; Indian war of 1793, 458-461 ; Constitution- al Convention of 1796, 462 ; Hugh L. White, 463-465 ; George Farragut, 465 ; Sam Houston, 465 ; Fighting Par- son Brownlow, 466-468 ; Hor- ace Maynard, 468 ; Thos. A. R. Nelson, 468 ; the Civil War, 469—472 ; since the war, 472-475 Krafft, Michael, 360 Ladies Hermitage Association, 493 Lady of the Lake, 392 Lafayette, General, in Balti- more, 24 ; at Frederick, 93 ; at Washington, 147 ; at Rich- mond, 173 ; at Savannah, 303; at Mobile, 358 ; at Montgom- ery, 388; at Nashville, 490, 492 Lakanal, 357, 35S Lamartine, 135 Lane, John, 438 Langdon, C. C., 363 La Rochefoucault quoted, 267 La Salle, 331, 332, 334, 414-416 La Tour, 338 Laudonniere, ^bl ff. Law, John, and the Mississippi Bubble, 336, 348, 417, 418 Lawrence at Fort Bowyer, 355 594 Index Le Clerc, M., i6 Lee, Gen. R. E., xxix., 175, 323, 476 ; at Frederick, 94 ; Mer- cie's statue of, 178; residence of, 180 ; surrender of, 246 Lee, R. H., 87, 88 ; and the na- tional capital, 115 ; his resolu- tion of independence, 204 Leeward Islands, 276 Le Feboure, M., plans attack on Charleston, 256, 257 Legare, Hugh S., xxvii, 272 Lemoyne, 332 L'Enfant, Major, 104, 119 Le Sueur, explorations of, 334 Le Vert's Souvenirs of Travel, 362 Lidell at Blakely, 374 Lincoln, Abraham, 41, 506; at Frederick, 94 Little Rock, George B. Rose on, 537-556 ; physiography of the region, 537-539 ; original in- habitants, 539-541 ; early visits of white men, 541; made capital of the Territory, 544 ; growth, 544-547 ; leaders of, 54S-552 ; Civil War, 552 ; later history, 553 Liverpool & Manchester R. R., 27S Lloyd house, 63 Lobb, Captain, 239 Locke, John, 254 Loftus, Major, 345 London, Yorktown trade with, 187 Long Island, battle of, 26 Longstreet, General, besieges Knoxville, 470-472 Louis XIV., 332 Louisiana, 207, 346, 417 ; nam- ing of, 331 ; cession of, 352, 428, 542 ; acquires Statehood, 430 ; see also New Orleans Louisiana artillery, 374 Louisville, Lucien V. Rule on, 503-535 ; the site, 503 ; dis- tinguished citizens, 504-506 ; historic significance, 506-509 ; founding of, 509-514 ; Irving's description, 514-516 ; visitors to, 517-520; immigration, 520; Charles Dickens at, 521 ; George Keats, 522-530 ; Civil War, 532 Louisville, Cincinnati & Charles- ton R. R. Co., xxi Lucas, Colonel, 276 Lucas, Eliza, 276 Luckett, William, 83 Ludlow, Noah M., 363 Lyell, Sir Charles, 273 Lynch, Thos., Jr., 270 Lyon, David, 83 M Maclean, Archibald, 236, 242 Macon, Ga., xxv Macready at Mobile, 363 Madison, Dolly, 131 Madison, James, and L' Enfant, 120 ; at Washington, 131, 134; quoted, 109, 165 Madison, Rev. James, 214 Maffitt, Captain, 366, 36S Magna Charta, 204 Maison Quarree, 164, 165 Malbone, Edward, 275 Maldonado, 330 Manasses, first battle of, 323 Maney, General, 498 Manigault, Gabriel, 271, 274 Marchand, 340 Marlborough, 259 Marquette, 331 Marshall, John, 165, 16S, 214; house of, 171-173 ; at trial of Aaron Burr, 174 Marshall, Mary Willis Ambler, 172 Martian, Nicholas, 187 Martin, Governor, 241 Martin, Luther, 40 Martin Chuzzleivit, 521 Index 595 Maryland, ior-103 ; and the na- tional capital, 108; sec also An- napolis, Baltimore, Frederick Maryland Historical Society, 11, 26, 44 Mason, George, 204 Massachusetts Bay, Puritan land- ing at, 249 Massacre Island, 332 Maubila, 328 Maury, D. H., defends Mobile, 374 Maury, M. F., 181 Maybrick, Mrs., 362 Maynard, Horace, 467-469 Maynard, Washburn, 468 Mayo, Capt. Isaac, 70 Mayo, Major, 156 McClellan, General, xxix, 188, 216 McClung, Capt. P., 469 McCrady, Gen. E., quoted, 254, 273 McCulloh, H. E., 227 McDuffie, Governor, xxi, xxii McGillivray, 340 Mcintosh, Gen. Lachlan, 296, 318 McKinley, President, 320 McLaw, 471 McMahon, Hon. John V. L., 44 McNutt, Governor, 440 Meigs, M. €., quoted, 283 Meldrim, Hon. P. W., quoted, 298 Memoirs, Moultrie's, 266 Memphis, 335 Menefee, Mrs. E., 531 Menendez, 559-56?- 572 Menendez, Don Pedro, 568 Mercie's statue of Lee, 178 Mercury, the Charleston, xxvii Merrimac, the, 187 Mexico, 146, 331, 346 ; St. Denis visits, 335 ; war with, 398, 504, 549 ; gold mines of, 415 " Middle Plantation," 190 Middleton, Arthur, 270 Mignot, Louis R., 275 Milledge, Governor, 311 Miller, Wm. K., xxviii Milliken's Bend, 442 Minden, the, 37 Minge, James, 191 Mississippi, territorial govern- ment of, organized, 437 ; see also Vicksburg Mississippi Bubble, Law's, 336 Mississippi River, 329 ; French and the, 334 ; De Soto and the, 413, 414 ; and the treaty of 1763, 422 ; and the great West, 426 Moale, John, 6-8, 11 Mobile, XXX, 417, 434 ; Peter J. Hamilton on, 327-378 ; his- toric background, 327-332 ; early settlements, 332-338 ; character of early, 339, 340 ; the English drive out the French, 342-346 ; the Spanish era, 347-352 ; becomes Amer- ican, 352-354 ; in the War of 1S12, 354-356 ; American de- velopment, 356-364 ; in the Civil War, 364-375 ; in recent times, 375-378 Mobile & Ohio R. R., 361 Mohawks, 478 Mon Louis Island, 341 Monacans, 102 Monahoacs, 102 Monnokasi, 77 Monocacy, 76 ; battle at, 141 Monockessy, 77 Monroe, President, 165, 180, 320, 492, 516; at William and Mary College, 207 ; at Louis- ville, 531 ; orders troops into Florida, 577 Montezuma, 306 Montgomery, xix, 553 ; George Petrie on, 379-410 ; origin of, 380-384 ; the early settlement 596 Index Montgomery — Continued described, 384-386 ; visit of Lafayette, 388-390 ; social and economic history, 390-395 ; State capital moved to, 396 ; the war with Mexico, 398 ; influence of Yancey, 399-405 ; capital of the Confederacy, 407; inauguration of President Davis, 40S ; after-days, 409 Montgomery, Lemuel, 383 Montgomery, Richard, 384 Montgomery, SirRobt., quoted, 299, 301 Montgomery R. R., 393 Monticello, 311 Montrose, 343, 346, 350, 368 Monumental Church, Richmond, 170 Moore, Arthur, 380 Moore, Francis, 303 Moore, Governor, 574 Moore, Maurice, 232 Moore, Roger, 233 Moore, Tom, quoted, 104, 131, 146 Moravians in Georgia, 305 More, Hannah, 316 Morris Island, 282 Moss, Major, 174 Moultrie, Gen. W., quoted, 266, 286 Mound-builders, the, 478 Mount Clare, 18 Mount Olivet, 498 Mount Vernon, 125, 330, 492 Mowatt, Mrs., 363 Murfreesboro, battle of, 496 Murphy's Circulating Library, 33 Murray, Hon. C. A., quoted, 268 Muse, Col. H., quoted, 212 N Nacochtank, loi Nahant, the, 324 Nanipacna, 330 Napoleon L, 357 Napoleon IIL, 273 Narvaez, 329 Nash, General, 484 Nashborough, 484 Nashville, xxx, 450, 462, 474 ; Gates P. Thruston on, 477- 501 ; prehistoric times, 477- 479 ; founding of, 47(^-483 ; naming of, 4S4 ; the founder, 4S5 ; Lidian attacks, 486-4S9 ; Nashborough becomes Nash- ville, 489 ; visit of Lafayette, 490 ; Andrew Jackson in, 491- 494 : the home of James K. Polk, 494 ; becomes capital of Tennessee, 494 ; Civil War, 495-498 ; recent history, 49S- 501 Natchez, 353 ; settlement of, 433 Natchez Indians, 340 " Nat Turner Insurrection," 170 Naval Academy, U. S., 6S-72 Nelson, Thos. A. R., 468 Neufchatel, liturgy of, 291 Newbern, N. C, 223, 228, 233 Newburyport, Mass., 311 Newport, Capt., at Jamestown, 154 Newport News, 188 Newport, U. S. Naval Academy removed to, 70 New Mexico, 478 New Orleans, xvi, xix, xxx, xxxii, 338, 342, 346, 352, 358, 434, 436, 517 ; Grace King on, 41 1-43 1 ; background of, 411- 413 ; De Soto's explorations, 413 ; La Salle's scheme, 414- 416 ; Iberville's Success, 416 ; Bienville's work, 416-418 ; growth of, 41S-422 ; Spain acquires, 423-427 ; French re- acquire, 428 ; ceded to United States, 428 ; battle of New Orleans, 430 ; the city to-day, 430 Index 597 New Philadelphia, 380 Newton, N. C, 235 New York, xvi, xx, 269 ; Dutch settlement of, 249 ; and the national capital, 108 Nicholson, Capt. James, 22 Nicholson, Gov. Francis, 194 " None Such," 155 North America, discovery of, 151 North Carolina, 449, 489 ; cedes Western lands, 451 ; see also Wilmington North Point, British attack on, 37 Northwest Territory, 511 Nott's Types of MankhtJ, 362 O Oconostota, quoted, 486 Ogle, Governor, 62 Oglethorpe, Gen. James E., at Savannah, 294, 296, 302, 306, 307, 310, 315. 324, 575 Ohio River, French occupy, 335 Ohio Valley, 5io_^. Oliver, the stamp distributor, 197 O'Malley, Charles J., quoted, 534 Oneida, the, 368 Opechancanough, 190 Ordinance of 1787, 437 Orleans College, 358 Orleans, Duke of, 418 Orleans, the, 517 O'Reilly and New Orleans, 424 Orton House, 232 Oyster Point, settlements on, 252 Paca homestead, the, 62 Pacquereau, Captain, 258 Page, General, 366, 372 Panuco, 329 Paris, 170 ; Treaty of, 422 Parker, Sir Peter, besieges Charleston, 264, 290 Parliament, Act of 1748, 276 " Patawomeke," 102 Paulding, James K., 516 Peabody, George, 500 Peabody Institute, 44 Peabody Normal College, 500 Peach Bottom, and site for national capital, 108 Peggy Stewart, burning of the, 63, 65 Pelham Cadets, 371 Pelham, Peter, 214 Pemberton, General, at Vicks- burg,435, 443, 444 Pendleton, Edmund, and the Williamsburg-C o n v e n t i o n, 201, 202 Penn, Wm., 21;, 124, 572 Pensacola, 333, 336, 344, 347, 371 Percy, Commodore, attacks Fort Bowyer, 355 Perier, 340 Peter the Great, 340 Peterborough, Lord, 158 Petigru, James L., quoted, 291 Petrovich, Alexis, 340 Petrie, George, on Montgomery, xix, 379-410 Phi Beta Kappa Society orga- nized, 207 Philadelphia, xvi, 21, 87, 269; and the Continental Congress, 106, 203 ; and the Convention of 1787, 201 ; and the national capital, 108, 114, 126; com- pared with Charleston in 1796, 267 Philip and Charles, the, I r Philippines, 196 Phillips, Philip, 362 Pickens, Governor, 388 Pickett's charge at Gettysburg, 472 Piedmontese, the, in Ga., 306 Pierce, Franklin, 140 Pike, Albert, 547, 548, 552 Pilgrims at Plymouth, 154, 557 598 Index Pillans, Engineer, 369 Pinckney, C. C, 270, 276 Pinckney, Thos., 270, 276 Pinkney, Wm.. 40 Pineda in Florida, 329 Pittsburg, 511, 517, 51S, 521 Placide, H., 363 Plains of Abraham, 342 Plymouth, 154, 300, 331, 558 Pocahontas, loi, 153, 159 Poe, David, 25 Poe, E. A., xxvii, 25, 174 Poe, Mrs. David, 25 Polk, James K., 70, 140, 492; at Nashville, 492, 494 ; tomb of, 495 Polytechnic Society, Louisville, 531 Pompeii, 249 Pont Chatooga, 342 Pope, Alexander, 316 Pope, F., vision of, 104, 105, 147 Pope, Warden, 531 Porcher, 273 Port Bill, the, 21 Port Hudson, 441 Port Royal, S. C, 249, 250,572 Port Royally the, 250, 251 Postboy, the New York, 83 Potomac and the national capi- tal, no. III, 114, 116 Pott, Dr. John, 190 Powhatan, loi, 146, 152, 155 Pratt, Enoch, 44 Prentice, George D., 505, 532 Prentiss, S. S., 440, 490 Presbyterians in Knoxville, 449 Price, Thomas, S3 Princeton College, 20S Prioleau, 290 Privateers, Baltimore, 38 Provost, Gen. A., besieges Charleston. 266 Pueblo Builders, 478 Pulaski, 25, 294, 299, 303, 318- 320 Purchas, Rev. Samuel, 153 Puritans, 249, 312 Purviance, 22 Pushmataha, 355 Quapaws, 539, 540 Quebec, 334, 3S4 Queen Anne, 61, 158 Quincy, Josiah, 244. 267; quoted 259 Quitman, General , 398 R Raines, General, 49S Raleigh, Sir Walter, 152, 219, 259. 331 Ramsay, Allan, 274 Ramsey, Doctor, quoted, 4S6 Randall house, 63 Randolph, Edmund, 201 Randolph, John, 165, 180, 512 Randolph, Peyton, 199 Randolph, Richard, 159 Randolph, Wm., 159 Randolph- Macon College, 208 Ravenel, Dr. St. Julien, dis- covers commercial value of phosphate deposits in South Carolina, 279 Ravenels, the, 273 Raymond, John T., 363 Ready Moitt-v, 392 Red Gauntlet, the, 366 Reeves, Lieutenant, 28 Republican, the Montgomery, 3S3 Revolution, American, Southern cities in, see individual cities Rhett, Lieutenant-Colonel, de- fends Charleston, 231, 256 Rhyner, Mr., 28S Ribaut, Captain Jean, 249, 560- .564 Rice, cultivation of, in the South, xvii, 277 Index 599 Richmond, xxvi, xxvii, xxix, 206, 409 ; Wm. Wirt Henry on, 1 51-183 ; site discovered by Captain John Smith, 154; founded by Col. W. E. Byrd, 156; Act of Virginia legislature in 1742, 158 ; St. John's Church, 159 ; incorporated in 1782, 162 ; the Capitol, 164- 170 ; The Marshall house, 171-173 ; the Swan tavern, 174 ; the Valentine Museum, 175 ; The Civil War, 176-17S Ridgely, Charles, 15 Ridout, John, house of, 64 Rives, Anielie, 377 Roanoke Island, colony on, 152 Robertson, Colonel, takes pos- session of Mobile, 342 Robertson, Harrison, 534 Robertson, James, 450, 490, 501; at Nashville, 479, 481-485, 487 Robespierre, 93 Robin, the Abbe, 16 Rogers, Randolph, 168 Romans's expedition, 344 Rome, 104-106 Rose, George B., on Little Rock, 537-556 Rose, Rev. Robert, 159 Rosecrans, General, 498 Rose Hill, 86 Ross, General, 134, 136 Ross, Rev. Doctor, 95 Roulstone, George, 457 Rule, Lucien V., on Louisville. 503-535 Russell's Magazine, xxvii Russia, 340 Rutledge, Hugh, 270 Rutledge, John, 270 Ryan, Father, 377 St. Anne's Church, Annapolis, 53, 54 St. Augustine, xvi, xxix, 256 ; G. R. Fairbanks on, 557-581 ; settled and laid out by Menen- dez, 559-566 ; burned by Drake, 567-570; rebuilt, 570; captured by Captain Davis, 571 ; captured by Governor Moore, 574 ; invested by Ogle- thorpe, 575 ; ceded to Eng- land, 576 ; restored to Spain, 577 ; United States acquires, 577 ; in Civil War, 578 ; re- cent improvements, 580 St. Cecilia Society, Charleston, 260, 290 St. Charles Royal Hospital, 425 St. Denis, explorations of, 335, 338 St. Francis, order of, 571 St. James's Church, Wilming- ton, N. C, 244 St. John's Church, Richmond, 159-161 St. John's College, Annapolis, 55, 56 St. John's Parish, Ga., 312 St. Lawrence, French occupy the, 331 St. Louis, 413, 542 St. Mary's, Md., i, 53 .St. Mary's Church, Annapolis, 66 St. Mary's County, Md., 5 St. Memin, 275 St. Michael's Church, Charles- ton, 287, 2S8, 291 St. Paul's Church, Baltimore, 11 St. Paul's Church, Edenton, 225, 226 St. Philip's Church, Brunswick, ^ N. C, 233 St. Philip's Church, Charleston, 254, 255, 286-288 St. Stanislaus, order of, 273 Salem, N. C, 222 Salzburgers, the, in Ga., 79, 297, 305 San Domingo, revolution in, 32 6oo Index San Jacinto, battle of, 491 San Marco, Castle of, 571, 575, 57f>. 581 Sands, Captain, 364 Santa Anna, 395 Santee, the, 72 Saunders, Colonel, 469 Savannah, xxx ; Pleasant A. Stovall on, 293-325 ; early settlements, 293-298 ; Ogle- thorpe's colony, 300-306 ; Tomochichi, 306-308; Wesley, 308-310 ; Whitefield, 310 ; the Revolution, 311-320; the Civil War, 322-324 Savantiah, the, 320, 325 Saxe- Weimar, Duke of, 358 Sayle, Gov. Wm., 250^. Schley, Thomas, 77 Schultz, Henry, xxviii Scotch-Irish, in Tennessee, 449, 450 Scott, Gen. Winfield, 118; at William and Mary College, 208 Sebastopol, siege of, 280 Secession, Act of, 165 Seibels. Col. J. J., 398 Selooe, 562 Seminole War, 578 Semmes, Raphael, 364, 366 Seven Years' War, the, 342 Sevier, Ambrose H., 548-550 Sevier, John, 450, 479, 485 ; and the battle of Etowah, 461 ; made governor of Tennessee, 462 Shafer, Sara Andrew, on An- napolis, 47-73 ; on Frederick Town, 75-99 Shaftesbury, the eighth Lord, Sharkey, Judge W. L., 440 Sharpe, Governor, quoted, 12, 14, 16, 21 Shelby, Evan, 480 Shelby, Isaac, 479 Shepherd, Alexander R., and the city of Washington, 144 Sherman, Gen. W. T., xxx, 498 ; at Charleston, 2S8 ; cap- tures Savannah, 324 Shields, General, 398 Shockoe's Creek, 156 Silk culture in Ga., 304 Silk Hope plantation, 257 Silsbee, N., 141 Simms, Wm. Gilmore, xxvii, 273 ; quoted, 264, 288 Simrall, H. E., on Vicksburg, 433-447 Sioussat, St. George L., on Baltimore, 1-45 Sixth Massachusetts Regiment in Baltimore, 40 Sketch Book, Irving's, 522 Slavery, negro, introduced into Florida, 572 Slocum, at Red Fort, 374 Slough, Mayor, surrenders Mo- bile to Federal forces, 375 Smallwood, General, 26 Smith, Capt. John, 48, 102, 152- 155 Smith, Capt. Samuel, 26 Smith, Dr. John Lawrence, 273 Smith, Gov. Thomas, 277 Smith, Joseph, 83 Smith, Robert H., 362 Smith, Sol., 363 Snowden, Yates, on Charleston, XX, 249-292 Somers, Sir George, 151 South America, Spanish in, 331 South Carolina, see Charleston South Carolina College, 208 South Carolina Railroad Co., xx South Mountain, battle of, 94 Southern Literary Messenger, xxvii Southern Review, xxvii, 272 Southwest Territory, 451, 454 Souvenirs of Travels, Le Vert's, 362 Spain, and War of 1742, 297 ; in the West Indies, 328 ; claims of, in United States, 334 ; ac- Index 60 1 Spain — Continued quires Florida, 347 ; acquires New Orleans, 423-427 ; in the Mississippi Valley, 433, 436 ; see also Mobile, New Orleans, St. Augustine Spanish, destroy Port Royal Colony, 250 ; attack Charles- ton, 256-258; in Georgia, 302 ; at Mobile, 329, 330, 331, 336 ; at Pensacola, 332 ; at New Orleans, 346, 423-427 ; Burr's flight to the, 353 ; see also Spain Sparks, Jared, quoted, 34 Speed, John Gilmer, 525 Spencer, settles in Kentucky, 479 Spotswood, Governor, ig6, 210 Spring Hill Redoubt, 294, 31S Stagg, Charles, 211 Stamp Act, 82, 83, 196, 199, 206, 238 Stanhope, 259 Stansberry, Mrs., 288 vStanton, E. M., 283 Statesman, the London, quoted, 136 Steele, in attack on Spanish Fort, 372 Steele, General, captures Little Rock, 553 Stephenson, George, 278 Stevenson, Dr. Henry, 12, 18 Stevenson, Dr. John, 12, 14 "Stevenson's Folly," 18 Stewart, Anthony, 63 Stewart, Doctor, 88 Stewart, George N., 362 Stewart, Peggy, house of, 64 Stiles, President Ezra, quoted, 20 r Stone, Governor, 52, 59, 109 Stovall, P. A., on Savannah, 293-325 Strawbridge, Robert, establishes Methodism in Md., 82 Stuart, David, 122 Stuart, Gilbert, 274, 531 Sullivan's Island, 256 Sumter, the, 366 Sunbury, Ga., 296, 312, 313 Susan Constant, the, 151 vSusquehanna, the, and the na- tional capital, III Susquehannoghs, the, 56, 76 "Swamp Angel," the, 282 Swan, the, 366 Swan Tavern, Richmond, 174 Tampico, 329 Taney, R. B., 60 ; at Frederick, 92 Tarleton, Colonel, 84 Taylor, Hannis, 377 Taylor, Zachary, 504, 530, 532 Tazewell, John, 201 Teach, 230, 231 Teasdale, John, 277 Tecumsek, the, 370 Tennessee, see Knoxville and Nashville Tennessee Historical Society, 4S2 Tennessee, the, 369, 371 Tennessee, University of, 458, 459. 474 Tennyson, quoted, 507 Tensaws, the, 341 Terra Maria, 51, 75 Texas, xxvi, 207, 332, 335, 395 Thackeray, W. M., 78 ; quoted, 1S2 Theus, 274 Thomas, Gen., xxx, 497, 498 Thompson, John R., 168, 180 Thorington, Col. John H., 391 Thornton, Dr. Wm., and the Capitol at Washington, 121 Throckmorton, Major, and Charles Dickens, 522 Thruston, Gates P., on Nash- ville, 477-501 Ticknor, Captain, 395, 398 6o2 Index Times, the London, quoted, 468 Timrod, Henry, xxvii, 273, 274, 288 " Tippecanoe and Tyler too " campaign, 395 Tobacco, cultivation of, in the South, xvii Toleration Act of 1649 in Va., 51, 52 Tolstoy, XXX Tomochichi, 306-30S Tondee's tavern, 319 Tonty, 334 Tories sentenced at Frederick, Torpedo, the, in naval warfare, 280 Townsend, George Alfred, quoted, i Tragabigzanda, 154 Traille, Major, 2S7 Trapnall, Frederick W., 54S, 552 " Traveller," 17S Treaty, of Ghent, 356 ; of Paris in 1763, 422 ; of 1783, 347 ; of 1 791 with the Cherokees, 454, 458 ; of 1795 with Spain, 437 Tree, Ellen, 363 Trent, W. P., Introduction, xv-xxxiii Trenton, Congress at, 108 Tripoli, war with, 71 Troop, Capt. Robert, 105 True Relation, Smith's, quoted, 154 Tryon, Governor, 228, 233, 238 Tuscaloosa, Alabama capital re- moved from, 396, 397 Tuscarora, 76 Twining, Thomas, quoted, 124 Tyler, John, Sr., 200, 201 Tyler, Lyon G. , on Williams- burg, 185-217 Tyler, President John, 140, 180, 214 ; at William and Mary Col- lege, 207 Tybee Island, 317, 318, 323, 324 Tyndall, 272 Types of Mankind, Dr. N'ott't 362 u Ursulines Convent, New Or- leans, 420, 421, 425 University of Maryland, 33 University of Pennsylvania, 208 University of Virginia, 208 Valangin, liturgy of, 291 Valentine, E. V., 175, 176 Valentine, Mai.n S., 275 Valentine Museum, 175 Valley Forge, 85 Van Buren, Martin, 464, 492 Vanderbilt, Cornelius, endows Vanderbilt University, 498 Vanderbilt University, 500 Vanderlip, Frank A., on Wash- ington, 101-150 Van Scheliha, 369 \'audreuil, 341 Vick, Wm., 43S Vicksburg, xxx ; H. F. Simrall on, 433-447 ; late origin of, 433^438 ; description of, 438- 440 ; siege of, 440-447 Vincennes, G. R. Clark cap- tures, 510, 514 Vine and Olive Company, the, 357 Vining, Thomas, 11 1, 112 Viper, the, 239, 240 Virginia, and the national capi- tal, loS, 116 ; gives bust of Lafayette to France, 173 ; English colonization of, 249 ; legislature of, and Lo«isville, 514 ; see also Richmond and WiliLamsburg. Index 60s w Waddell, Hugh, 238, 239 Wagner, massacre of, 284 Wakefield, Ala., 353 Walker, Percy, 361 Wallace, Gen. Lew, defends Washington, 141 Walnut Hills, Vicksburg, 433, 438 ^ Walter's Flora Carpliniana, 272 War of 1812, Southern cities in, see individual cities War, the Civil, see individual cities War Office, U. S., 126 Warrenton, Mississippi, 433 Washburn, Rev. Cephas, 544 Washington, City of, xxix ; F. A. Vanderlipon, 101-150; predic- tion of, 103-106 ; selection of site, 106-115 ; Washington's influence, 115-119; Act of 1790, 116; planning of, 119; naming of, 120; the Capitol, 121 ; the White House, 125 ; seat of government removed to, 126 ; agitation for removal of capital, 130 ; War of 1812, 131 -136 ; rebuilding, 137 ; ante-bellum days, 138-141 ; the Civil War, 141 ; the re- forms of Shepherd, 142-146 Washington, George, 85, 87, loi, 150, 168, 303, 340, 492 ; in Baltimore, 24 ; at Annapolis, 59, 72 ; at Frederick, 96 ; in French and Indian War, 78- 80, 85 ; quoted, 80, 148 ; nominated to command of Continental armies, 87 ; and the genesis of Washington City, 103-119 ; lays corner- stone of Capitol, 122 ; re- tirement of, 125 ; Houdon's statue of, 165 ; Crawford's statue of, 166, 167 ; in Rich- mond, 173 ; at Yorktown, 187 ; at Williamsburg, 196, 214 ; in Charleston, 286 ; in Savannah, 299, 320, 325 ; and William Blount, 452, 453 Washington, Wm. A., 84 Washington College, Pa., 208 Washington Monument, the, 36, 44 Watauga, settlement of, 450, 479, 480, 484, 486 Watters's Battery, 364 Watterson, Henry, 506, 534 Watkins, George C, 548 Wayne, Gen. Anthony, at Savan- nah, 318 Weatherford, 355 Webster, Daniel, xxiii, 140, 141, 464 ; quoted, 117 IVeehaivken, the, 324 Wegg, Atty.-Gen. E. R., 343 Weld's Travels, 214 Wellington, xxx, 132 : in Spain, 357 Wells, W. C, Theory of Deiv, 272 Wesley, John, in Georgia, 298, 308-310 Wesley Monumental Church, Savannah, 310 West, Benjamin, 274 West, Joseph, 252 West Florida, 344, 346, 352 Westminster Abbey, 271 Whetstone Point, Md., 6, 11, 22 White and the national capital, "5 White House, the, 125, 126, 482; of the Confederacy, 178, 179 White, Hugh L., 463-465 White, James, founds Knoxville, 449, 451, 452 Whitefield, George, in Georgia, 287, 298, 308, 310, 311 " White's Fort," 451 Whitney and the cotton-gin, 298, 306 Whittier, 98 6o4 Index Wilkinson, Gen. James, takes Mobile, 352, 353 William III., 54, 57 William and Mary College, 194, 199, 201, 206-208, 214-216 ; see also Williamsburg William of Orange, 61 Williamsburg, .x.\ix, 162, 296 ; Lyon G. Tyler on, 185-217; its site, 1S5-188 ; settlement of, 190 ; Bacon's Rebellion, 191 ; capital removed to, 194 ; before the Revolution, 196- 201 ; the Convention of 1776, 201-204 ; capital removed to Richmond, 206 ; William and Mary College, 206-208 ; social life in, 208-213 ; the Civil War, 215 ; since the war, 216 Williamson, Hugh, 228 Wills, Rev. John, 233 Wilmington, N. C., xxx ; Bishop J. B. Cheshire on, 219-247 ; physical background, 219- 222 ; neighboring towns, 223- 234 ; founding of, 234 : early history, 235 - 238 ; resists Stamp Act, 238-240 ; in the Revolution, 240-244 ; in the Civil War, 244-247 Wilson, Alexander, 504, 518 Wilson, Augusta Evans, 376, 377 Winder, Cieneral, at Bladens- burg, 132 li'i>iona, the, 36S Wirt, \Vm., quoted, 174 Wise, Henry A., i63 Wolseley, Lord, on the siege of Charleston, 2S0 Woodbine, 355 Woodward, Captain, quoted, 380, 388 Wragg, Wm., 271 Wright, General, 315 Wright, Gov. Sir J., 294, 312 Wright's Ferry and the national capital, 108 Wythe, George, 160, 213, 214 Y Yale College, 208 Yancey at Montgomery, 379, 399-404, 408 Yarborough, John W., xxviii Yeamans, Sir John, 229, 231, 251 Yell, Archibald, 548 Yerger, Senator George, 440 York, Pa., lO, II Yorktown, xix, 24, 165, 186, 1S8, 244, 299 Zogbaum, Rufus Fairchild, 276 Simencan Historic Toxtrns Historic Towns of New England Edited by Lyman P. Powell, With introduction by George P. 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