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 'i'^ 
 
 
 LIBRARY. 
 
 A-'^QC^fSTB/Jf .nSL 
 
 Diciaion of Horticuiittpe;-- 
 
 H. 0. Dec't of AffWnnn — u&Y 19 190 
 
AMERICAN 
 
 FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY: 
 
 CONTAINma 
 
 PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS FOR THE CULTURE OP PLANTS, 
 in 
 
 THE FLOT\^R-GARDEN, HOT-HOUSE, GREEN-HOUSE, 
 ROOMS, OR PARLOUR WINDOWS, 
 
 FOR EVERY MONTH IN THE YEAR. 
 
 WITH 
 
 A BESCRIPTION OF THE PLANTS MOST DESIRABLE IN EACH, THE NATURE OF 
 THE SOIL AND SITUATION BEST ADAPTED TO THEIR GROWTH, THE 
 f PROPER SEASON FOR TRANSPLANTING, ETC. 
 
 WITH INSTRUCTIONS FOR ERECTING 
 
 THE WHOLE 
 
 ADAPTED TO EITHER LARGE OR SMALL GARDENS 
 
 WITH INSTRUCTIONS FOR PREPARING THE SOIL, PROPAGATING, 
 PLANTING, PRUNING, TRAINING, AND FRUITING ; 
 
 THE GRAPE VINE, 
 
 WITH DESCRIPTIONS OP THE BEST SORTS POR CULTIVATIl^Q 
 IN THE OPEN AIR, 
 
 BY ROBERT BUIST, 
 
 NURSERYMAN AND SEED-GROWER. 
 
 Zixil H5&itiDiT, initfj Numtrou^ EJJifitionif. 
 
 NEW YORK: 
 C. M. SAXTON, BARKER & CO., 25 PARK ROW. 
 SAN FRANCISCO: H. H. BANGKOET & CO. 
 1860..„.^ 
 
 UBRakY 
 
 Ditisicri. oi Horncui^^ui-^, 
 
 . _ , - . ^ _ii...-. MAY ' 
 
Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1854, by 
 
 C. M. SAXTON, 
 
 En the Clerk's OfiSce of the District Court of the United States, in and for 
 the Southern District of New York. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 We are again called upon to present to the public the 6th 
 edition of this popular work on the Culture of Flowers — a 
 taste that is now widely disseminating itself; in fact, a know- 
 ledge of which is requisite before a refined education is com- 
 pleted. We boldly and fearlessly say that no country has 
 made such rapid advancement in the art and science of Horti- 
 culture in so short a period as the United States. Wherever 
 the taste prevails, it diffuses a peace and harmony among its 
 participants without either symbol or mystery. In this 
 edition, a feast of new materials has been served up ; entire 
 lists have been cancelled and replaced with those of newer 
 and finer forms and habits ; extraneous matter and plants of 
 indifierent character are dropped. The great and successful 
 adaptation of Hot water to Horticultural purposes is explicitly 
 described, and to those who wish to examine the results, we 
 Bay " Come and see." A new and distinct list of hardy 
 Evergreens has been added, and a new chapter on the ever-to- 
 be-admired ROSE, and every improvement in the art up to 
 this present time introduced. 
 
 True, we have not dilated on the wonderful effects of 
 electricity upon vegetation, nor have we been extravagant 
 in the results of guano in the growth of plants. With re- 
 gard to the former, the capability of its reduction to general 
 practice has yet to be proven — and the latter has to be 
 
iv INTRODUCTION. 
 
 cautiously used, and even then its beneficial efi'ects arc not 
 universal. However, it can in a liquid state be used to 
 advantage on almost any plant, especially those of strong 
 habits, such as the Hose, Geranium, Fuchsia, Heliotrope, 
 Chrysanthemum, &c. To such, the following proportions 
 will be very beneficial : 1 lb. of guano to 5 galls, of water ; 
 after standing 12 or more hours, can be used in the routine 
 of watering once a week or even once in two weeks ; but 
 to plants that have more delicate and silky rootlets, such as 
 Epacris, Erica, Azalea, &c., the liquid must be reduced one- 
 half. 
 
 Our descriptions of plants have been conveyed more with 
 the view of giving an idea of their character to the general 
 reader than an accurate botanical synopsis, which would have 
 been known to the botanist alone. All that we have described 
 and recommended have, with a few exceptions, passed under 
 our own observation, and are such as are worthy of cultiva- 
 tion, either for beauty of flower, foliage, or habit, together 
 with those celebrated in arts and medicine. Many may, 
 possibly, have passed unobserved, either from not being very 
 generally known or difficult to obtain ; but in no case has 
 there been suppression, from business prejudices. Where the 
 words " our collections" occur, they are meant for those of 
 the country generally. 
 
 All our observations have been guided by dint of practice ; 
 and, although others may difi'er, this is designedly and pro- 
 fessedly given as the result of our own experience. The 
 plan laid down is our own routine of culture ; the soils are 
 those whicn we adopt ; but, at the same time, conceding that 
 every art and profession is subject to improvement, and none 
 more so than American horticulture. The table of soils was 
 originally constructed at the expense of much investigation 
 and labour, and has, also, in this edition, undergone consider- 
 able improvement. To every one that has but a single plant 
 
INTRODUCTION. V 
 
 it will be found invaluable. Although the publications in 
 Europe on Gardening and Floriculture are profuse, yet many 
 of their directions, when practised in the United States, prove 
 almost a dead letter. Not so with their architectural and 
 horticultural designs. The estates of the wealthy are suscepti- 
 ble of great improvement ; they want more of the picturesque, 
 and (to use the words of the veteran pioneer of horticulture) 
 gardenesque effect, to relieve their premises from the mono- 
 tonous erections and improvements which seem to govern all. 
 On culture, a work adapted to the climate must (and no other 
 can) be the guide in this country : on this account, a work 
 like the present has been a desideratum to aid those who 
 desire to employ their leasure hours either for amusement, 
 the benefit of health, to sweeten the decline of life, or to gain 
 a more intimate knowledge of the various productions of 
 nature throughout the world. Every year brings from other 
 climes some remarkable flower, fruit, or plant ; and as a point 
 that we are at least in some of our undertakings second to 
 none, we have only to refer to the very successful culture and 
 flowering of the Victoria Regia Water Lily, at Spring 
 Brook, the country seat of Caleb Cope, Esq., where it has 
 bloomed with more regal grandeur than at any of the Abbeys, 
 Castles, or Palaces of the Eastern world. 
 
 ROBERT BUIST. 
 
 ROSEDALE NUESEEIES, 
 
 Near Philadelphia, 1854. 
 
 1* 
 
PEETACE 
 
 TO THE FIRST EDITION. 
 
 This volume owes its existence principally to ine repeated 
 requests of a number of our fair patrons and amateur sup- 
 porters, whose inquiries and wishes for a practical manual 
 on Floriculture at last induced us to prepare a work on the 
 subject. That now offered is given unaffectedly and simply 
 as a plain and easy treatise on this increasingly interesting 
 subject. It will at once be perceived that there are no pre- 
 tensions to literary claims — the directions are given in the 
 simplest manner — the arrangement made as lucidly as was 
 in our power — and the whole is presented with the single 
 wish of its being practically useful. How far our object has 
 been attained, of course our readers must judge. Nothing 
 has been intentionally concealed ; and all that is asserted is 
 the result of minute observation, close application, and an 
 extended continuous experience from childhood. We pretend 
 not to infallibility, and are not so sanguine as to declare our 
 views the most perfect that can be attained. But we can so 
 far say that the practice here recommended has been found 
 very successful. 
 
 Some, very probably, may be disappointed in not having 
 the means of propagating as clearly delineated as those of 
 culture ; but to have entered into all the minutiae connected 
 
 (vii) 
 
Vlll PREFACE. 
 
 therewith would have formed materials for two volumes 
 larger than the present. We might have described that 
 branch, as it has already been done in works published both 
 on this continent and in Europe. In one of the former, it is 
 said '' You may now propagate many kinds (^Exotic Plants) 
 by suckers, cuttings, and layers, which should be duly at- 
 tended to, particularly such as are scarce and difficult to be 
 obtained." And the directions given in one of the most ex- 
 tensive works in Europe on the propagation of an extensive 
 genus varied in character and constitution, ran thus : " Cut- 
 tings of most kinds will strike root. From the strongest- 
 growing kinds, take off large cuttings at a joint, and plunge 
 them in a pot of sand under a hand-glass in the bark bed. 
 Of the smaller kinds, take younger kinds and put them under 
 a bell-glass, also plunged in heat. The sooner the plants are 
 potted off after they are rooted the better." 
 
 Such instructions to the inexperienced are imperfect and 
 unavailing, which, we flatter ourselves, is not the character 
 that will attach to the present work. We are well aware that 
 there are persons who, to show their own superior abilities, 
 may cavil and say that there is nothing new. To such critics 
 it may be answered, if arranging, simplifying, digesting, and 
 rendering Floriculture attainable by the humblest capacity, 
 with useful lists and tables on a plan quite novel, as we 
 believe, offer nothing new, it may at least be called an im- 
 provement. Howevei-, we submit all to a generous public, to 
 whom we are already under many obligations. 
 
 HIBBEUT & BUIST. 
 
 Philadelphia, April 18th, 1832. 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 
 
 pAoa 
 
 Flower gaeden, laying out a 
 
 . 17 
 
 
 JANUARY. 
 
 
 Of framing, &c., 
 
 ^ ^ 
 
 21 
 
 Of pruning, 
 
 FEBRUARY. 
 
 22 
 
 Of pruning, &c., 
 
 ^ ^ 
 
 23 
 
 Of planting shrubs, &c., 
 
 , , 
 
 25 
 
 Of hyacinths, &c.. 
 
 MARCH. 
 
 . 28 
 
 Of framing, 
 
 . 
 
 . 29 
 
 List of choice annuals for hot-beds, 
 
 30 
 
 List of choice hardy annuals, . 
 
 33 
 
 Box edgings. 
 
 , 
 
 35 
 
 Grass and other edgings. 
 
 , ^ 
 
 36 
 
 List of hardy biennials, 
 
 . 
 
 37 
 
 List of hardy perennials. 
 
 , 
 
 38 
 
 Bulbous roots, 
 
 , , 
 
 52 
 
 Carnations, pinks, primroses, &c., 
 
 52 
 
 Auriculas, . 
 
 , , 
 
 53 
 
 Kanunculus and anemone, 
 
 . 
 
 53 
 
 Roses, 
 
 . 
 
 54 
 
 Roses, climbing, 
 
 . 
 
 58 
 
 Deciduous ornamental flowering shrubs, 
 
 58 
 
 Grass-plats and walks, . 
 
 , , 
 
 59 
 
 Gravel walks 
 
 . 
 
 60 
 
 Of grafting, 
 
 . 
 
 . 61 
 
 C9) 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 APRIL. 
 
 Annuals, 
 
 Biennials and p>2rennials, 
 
 Roses, 
 
 Hybrid Chinese roses, . 
 
 Select list of Chinese roses, 
 
 Hybrid roses, striped, spotted, or marbled, 
 
 Perpetual roses, 
 
 Hybrid perpetual roses, 
 
 Grafting roses, 
 
 Bourbon roses, . 
 
 Bengal roses, 
 
 Tea rose, 
 
 Noisette roses. 
 
 Musk roses. 
 
 Climbing roses, 
 
 Microphylla roses. 
 
 Climbing plants, 
 
 Deciduous shrubs, 
 
 Of planting evergreen shrubs, 
 
 Care of choice bulbs. 
 
 Anemones and ranunculus, 
 
 Character of a fine ranunculus, 
 
 Auriculas, . 
 
 Character of a fine auricula, 
 
 Carnations, pinks, &c.. 
 
 Character of a polyanthus, 
 
 Polianthes tuberosa flore pleno, 
 
 Heart's ease or pansy, . 
 
 Gladiolus, or sword lily, 
 
 Jacobea lily. 
 
 Tiger flower. 
 
 Walks, . 
 
 Evergreen hedges, . 
 
 Box-edgings, 
 
 General care of plants coming into flower, 
 
 MAT. 
 
 Dahlia, propagation of, by cuttings, 
 
 grafting, 
 
 Dahlias, list of, . 
 Dahlia, character of. 
 Annuals, hardy and tender. 
 Care of hyacinths, tulips, &c., . 
 Anemones and ranunculus. 
 Tuberoses and amaryllis, 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 XI 
 
 Auriculas, polyanthus, and primroses, . 
 Double wall-floTvers, 
 General observations, . 
 
 PAGB 
 
 110 
 110 
 111 
 
 JUNE AND JULY. 
 
 Holland bulbs, . 
 Autumn flowering bulbs. 
 Carnations and pinks, . 
 
 laying of. 
 
 Budding roses, . 
 Of watering, 
 
 111 
 111 
 112 
 113 
 114 
 116 
 
 AUGUST. 
 
 Evergreen hedges, . 
 Carnations and pinks, . 
 Bulbous roots, 
 Sowing seeds of bulbous roots, 
 
 116 
 117 
 117 
 118 
 
 SEPTEMBEB. 
 
 Of dahlias, 
 
 General care of plants in pots, 
 Beds for bulbous roots. 
 General observations. 
 Sowing and saving seed, 
 
 118 
 119 
 119 
 119 
 120 
 
 OOTOBEB. 
 
 Of planting bulbous and tuberous roots, 
 Of planting and transplanting. 
 Grass and gravel walks, . . 
 
 Planting evergreens, • . 
 
 General observations, 
 
 120 
 125 
 125 
 126 
 126 
 
 NOVEMBEB. 
 
 Dahlias, ..... 
 
 Tuberoses, tigridias, and amaryllis, 
 
 Erythi-inas, ..... 
 
 Primroses, polyanthus, and daisies. 
 
 Choice carnations, pinks, pansies, and auriculas, 
 
 Of protecting plants in the garden. 
 
 Protection of seedling bulbs, 
 
 Of planting deciduous trees and shrubs. 
 
 General observations, .... 
 
 
 . 126 
 
 , 
 
 127 
 
 
 . 127 
 
 , 
 
 128 
 
 
 . 128 
 
 ^ 
 
 129 
 
 
 . 129 
 
 , 
 
 129 
 
 
 . 130 
 
XU CONTENTS. 
 
 DECEMBER. 
 
 PAQB 
 
 General observations, ...... 130 
 
 HOT-HOUSE. 
 
 CONSTKUCTION OF A HOT-HOUSE, . . . 133 
 
 JANUARY. 
 
 Of firing and fuel, . . . . . .138 
 
 Of watering the plants, ..... 189 
 
 Of insects — their destruction, ..... 140 
 
 Of cleansing plants, house, &c., .... 143 
 
 FEBRUARY. 
 
 Of insects, &c., ...... 145 
 
 Of repotting plants, ..... 146 
 
 Of cleansing plants, hwise, &c., .... 147 
 
 MARCH. 
 
 Of repotting plants, ...... 148 
 
 APRIL. 
 
 Repottint cacti, &c., ...... 149 
 
 MAY. 
 
 Of repotting plants, &c., ..... 150 
 
 Of bringing out the hot-house plants, . . . 177 
 Succulent plants, as cacti, &c., . . . .179 
 
 JUNE AND JULY. 
 
 General observations, . . . . . .179 
 
 AUGUST. 
 
 Repotting, . . . . . . . 180 
 
 Of painting, repairing, and cleansing the house, . . 180 
 
 SEPTEMBER. 
 
 Dressing the plants, ...... 181 
 
 Of taking in the plants, ..... 181 
 
 General observations, . . . - .182 
 
General observations, 
 
 Of air and water, 
 General observations, 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 OCTOBER. 
 
 NOVEMBER. 
 
 PAGB 
 182 
 
 183 
 
 184 
 
 Of shutters, . . 
 
 Of bulbous roots. 
 General observations, . 
 Epiphyte, or air plants, 
 
 DECEMBER. 
 
 185 
 
 186 
 186 
 18S 
 
 GREEN-HOUSE. 
 
 COKSTRUCTION OF A GEEEN-H0U8E, 
 
 189 
 
 JANUARY. 
 
 Of watering, 
 
 Camellia japonica, . 
 
 Of oranges, lemons, &c., 
 
 Of cape bulbs, 
 
 Of hyacinths and other bulbs, 
 
 EEBRUART. 
 
 Of oranges and lemons, 
 Of cape bulbs. 
 Camellia japonica, 
 Of shifting, 
 Of cleansing, &c., 
 
 MARCH. 
 
 Of watering, . . . . 
 
 Of oranges, lemons, &c., 
 Myrtles, oleanders, &c., 
 Geraniums, 
 Herbaceous plants, 
 Of cape bulbs, &c.. 
 
 Repotting, . . . . 
 
 Of enarching, or grafting by approach, 
 o 
 
 191 
 191 
 192 
 192 
 193 
 
 194 
 194 
 195 
 196 
 197 
 
 198 
 198 
 199 
 199 
 200 
 200 
 200 
 262 
 
XIV 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 APRIL. 
 
 Watering, 
 
 Oranges and lemons, 
 
 Myrtles and oleanders, 
 
 Geraniums, . 
 
 Flowering plants, 
 
 Insects, 
 
 Flowering stocks, 
 
 MAY. 
 
 Watering, . . . . 
 
 Of bringing out the green-house plants, 
 Repotting plants, . . . 
 
 Camellias, .... 
 Cape bulbs, .... 
 
 JUNE AND JULY. 
 
 General observations, 
 
 AUGUST. 
 
 Geraniums, . . . 
 
 Oranges and lemons, 
 Pruning oranges and lemons, . 
 Repotting plants. 
 General observations, . 
 
 SEPTEMBER. 
 
 Of watering. 
 
 Preparing for taking in the plants, 
 
 Stocks and wall-flowers, . 
 
 Chrysanthemums, . 
 
 Cape and Holland bulbs, 
 
 OCTOBER, 
 
 Of taking in and arranging the plants. 
 Of repotting. 
 
 Camellias, .... 
 
 Sowing camellia seed. 
 
 Of air and water. 
 Of tender bulbs. 
 General observations; 
 
 NOVEMBER. 
 
 286 
 287 
 287 
 
CONTENTS. XV 
 
 DECEMBER. 
 
 PAQB 
 
 Bulbous roots, ....... 288 
 
 ROOMS. 
 Tbeatment op plants in rooms, .... 289 
 
 JANUARY. 
 
 Watering, . . . . . . .291 
 
 Of camellia japonica, ..... 292 
 
 Of insects, &c., . . . . . .292 
 
 Of bulbous roots in general, .... 293 
 
 FEBRUARY. 
 
 General observations, ...... 294 
 
 MARCH. 
 Flowering plants, ...... 296 
 
 APRIL. 
 
 Directions for plants brought from the green-house, . 297 
 
 Flowering plants, ...... 298 
 
 Bringing plants out of the cellar, .... 298 
 
 MAY. 
 
 Cape bulbs, 300 
 
 Repotting, ....... 300 
 
 JUNE AND JULY. 
 
 General observations, ...... 300 
 
 AUaUST. 
 General observations, ...... 801 
 
 SEPTEMBER. 
 General observations, ..... 302 
 
 OCTOBER. 
 
 Of bulbous roots, ....•• 303 
 
 General observations, ..... 304 
 
XVI CONTENTS. 
 
 NOVEMBER. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 General observations, ...... 304 
 
 DECEMBER. 
 
 Roses, ........ 305 
 
 Camellias, ....... 806 
 
 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE VINE. 
 
 Aspect, ....... 310 
 
 On soil, ....... 310 
 
 On the propagation of yines, . . . . . 313 
 
 On erections for the support and protection of the vines in out- 
 door culture, . . . . . . .316 
 
 Of transplanting the vine, . . . . . 318 
 
 On pruning, ....... 318 
 
 On manure, ...... 321 
 
 Descriptive catalogue of grapes most suitable for open air cul- 
 ture, ....... 322 
 
 LISTS. 
 
 Hardy evergreens, . . . . . . 327 
 
 deciduous trees and shrubs, . • 33C 
 
 Table of soils, . . . * . .834 
 
THE 
 
 UlSEICAN FLOWER-GAEDEN 
 DIRECTORY. 
 
 ON LAYING OUT A FLOWER-aARDEN. 
 
 'fmu i lower-Garden is chiefly devoted to the cultivation of 
 »i*owy flowering plants, shrubs, and trees, either natives of 
 rtiis country or those of a foreign clime ; it is a refined ap- 
 pendage to a country seat, " suburban'^ villa, or city resi- 
 dence ; every age has had its principles of taste, and every 
 country its system of gardening. Our limits do not permit 
 us to enter minutely into the details of any of these sys- 
 tems ; but a lew hints may not be out of place to those whose 
 design is the laying out or improvement of the garden. 
 The Italian style is characterized by broad terraces and pa- 
 rcdlel walks, having the delightful shade and agreeable fra- 
 grance of the orange and the myrtle. Terraces may be ad- 
 vantageously adopted to surmount steep declivities; and, if 
 judiciously laid out, would convert a sterile bank into a 
 beautiful promenade, or choice flower-garden. 
 
 The French partially adopt the above system, interspers- 
 ing it with parterres and fgures of statuary work of every 
 character and description. When such is well designed and 
 neatly executed, it has a lively and interesting effect ; but 
 now the refined taste says these vagai-ies are too fantastic, 
 and entirely out of place. A late writer says of Dutch gar- 
 dening, that it " is rectangular formality :" they take great 
 pride in trimming their trees of yew, holly, and other ever- 
 2 * (17) 
 
 MPEinr LiBiMr 
 
ib ON LAYING OUT A PLOWER-GA-tDEN. 
 
 greens, into every variety of form, such as mops, moons, hal- 
 berds, chairs, &c. In such a system it is indispensable to 
 order that the compartments correspond in formality, nothing 
 being more offensive to the eye than incongruous mixtures 
 of character. 
 
 The beauty of English gardening consists in an artful 
 imitation of nature, and is consequently much dependent on 
 aspect and locality. It is a desideratum, where wood and 
 water can be combined with the flower-garden, and the prac- 
 tical eye can dispose of an object to advantage by interspers- 
 ing shrubbery and walks, that the combined objects form an 
 agreeable whole. They are not to be disposed with a view 
 to their appearance in a picture, but to the use and enjoy- 
 ment of them in real life. 
 
 We will now endeavour to give an explicit exposition of a 
 system adapted to our variable climate of extreme heat and 
 excessive cold. Where choice of aspects can be obtained, 
 preference should be given to a south-east or east ; but if 
 not, south or south-west, and, if possible, sheltered by ris- 
 ing ground or full-grown woods from the north-west and 
 north. But to lay down directions for a flower-garden is not 
 a little difficult, seeing that there cannot be any given area 
 or any description of local circumstances applicable to all 
 situations. A good soil is the sure foundation on which to 
 rear the grand floral superstructure, and the most genial is a 
 sandy loam : I mean by sandy loam a soil which contains 
 from one-sixth to one-tenth of sand ; and if on a gravelly or 
 sandy bottom, so much the better. Where the general sur- 
 face is gently undulating, it will greatly add to the beauty of 
 arrangement ; if access to a spring can be obtained, it will 
 prove a desideratum in completing the whole : it can be 
 available for a fish-pond or an aquarium, or can be convert- 
 ed into a swamp for the cultivation of many of our most 
 beautiful and interestiug native plants, such as Habanaria, 
 Lilium, Sarracenia, Dionea, &c., and on the margin of which 
 (if partially shaded) can be planted the beautiful varieties of 
 Azaleas, and the splendid flowering Rhododendron, which 
 by the by, are almost entirely neglected in all our floral deco 
 rations. With many, the arrangement of a flower-gardeu 
 is rather a matter for the exercise of fancy, than one calling 
 for the application of refined taste : true, it may be saiu 
 there ia no mathematical law to guide the designer, so tl it 
 
ON LAYING OUT A FLOWER-GARDEN. 19 
 
 If he avoid incongruity of arrangement the end is accom- 
 plished. But, in commencing these operations, a design 
 should be kept in view that will tend to expand, improve, 
 and beautify the situation ; not, as we too frequently see it, 
 the parterre and borders with narrow walks up to the very 
 household entrance : such is decidedly bad taste, unless com- 
 pelled for want of room. For perspicuity, admit that the 
 area to be enclosed should be from one to three acres, a cir- 
 cumambient walk should be traced at some distance within 
 the fence, by which the whole is enclosed ; the inferior walks 
 should partly circumscribe and intersect the general surface 
 in an easy, serpentine, and sweeping manner, and at such 
 distances as would allow an agreeable view of the flowers 
 when walking for exercise. Walks may be in breadth from 
 three to twenty feet, although from four to ten feet is gene- 
 rally adopted; and, to have these dry and permanent, those 
 that are to be much used should have six to eight inches of 
 the bottom soil dug out in a concave manner, and in the 
 centre of the concave dig out a trench of about nine inches 
 square, to form a drain, which may be made with brick or 
 filled with rough stone, and the concave may be filled with 
 refuse of buildings or broken stone within three inches of 
 +he desired height, which should be covered with gravel, and 
 then firmly rolled with a heavy roller. Where the gravel 
 cannot be obtained, sand may be used, mixed with a few 
 small stones to bind it, but such needs very repeated rolling. 
 Walks, such as described, when completely finished, will last 
 for ages ; but many will not be disposed to go to such ex- 
 pense ; to those we say use tanner's bark, which is very 
 cheap, and accessible to all. The outer margin of the gar- 
 den should be planted with the largest trees and shrubs; the 
 interior arrangement may be in detached groups of shrub- 
 bery and parterres. In order that the whole should not 
 partake of a uniform and gi'aduated character, it should be 
 broken and diversified by single trees planted in the turf, or 
 arising in scattered groups from a base of shrubs. In some 
 secluded spot, rock-work or a fountain, or both, may ba 
 erected ; the foundation of the former should consist of 
 mounds of earth, which will answer the purpose of more 
 solid erections, and will make the stones go farther : rocks 
 of the same kind and colour should be placed together, and 
 the greatest possible variety of character, size, and form 
 
20 ON LAYING OUT A FLOWER-GARDEN 
 
 should be studied, the whole showing an evident and well 
 deiined connexion. These erections generally are stiff, arti- 
 ficial, disjointed masses, and often decorated with plants 
 having no alhnity to their arid location. The undertaking, 
 when well completed, will present a field of varied and in- 
 teresting study, and more than compensate for the labour 
 and expense bestowed upon it. If it is desired that the flower- 
 garden should be a botanical study, there should be some 
 botanical arrangement adopted. 
 
 The Linncean system is the most easily acquired. A 
 small compartment, laid out in beds, might contain plants of 
 Jul the twenty-four classes, and a few of all the hardy orders, 
 which do not exceed one hundred. Or, to have their natu- 
 ral characters more assimilated, the Jussieuean system could 
 he carried into effect by laying down a grass-plat to any 
 extent above one quarter of an acre, and cut therein small 
 ligures to contain the natural families, which, of hardy plants, 
 we do not suppose would exceed one hundred and fifty. The 
 difficulties of this arrangement are, that many of the cha- 
 racters are imperfectly known, even to the most scientific. 
 (See Professor Lindley's Introduction to Botany.) All the 
 large divisions should be intersected by small alleys, or paths, 
 about one and a half or two feet wide. When there is not 
 a green-house attached to the flower-garden, there should be, 
 at least, a few sashes of framing, or a forcing pit, to bring 
 forward early annuals, &c., for early blooming. These 
 should be situate in some spot detached from the garden by 
 a fence of Roses, trained to trellises. Chinese Arbor vitae, 
 Privet, or even Madura, make excellent fences, and, when 
 properly trimmed, are very ornamental : they require to be 
 neatly and carefully clipped with shears every September. 
 In the Southern States, Noisette, Bourbon, and China Roses, 
 with a profusion of Sweetbriar, would make the most beauti- 
 ful of all fences, and could be very easily obtained : a fence 
 three hundred feet long would only cost about one hundred 
 and twenty dollars. Frames for forcing should be made of 
 plank two inches thick, and well put together ; the sash 
 should be from five to seven feet long, and from three to four 
 feet wide, and filled with six by eight glass. In the framing- 
 ground should be kept the various soils required for plants, 
 and also varies characters of manure at all times ready 
 for use, the whole in regular heaps, and kept free from 
 
Jan.'\ OF FRAMING, ETC. 21 
 
 weeds. — Haviug given these brief outlines of a flower-garden, 
 we now proceed to give monthly directions for planting and 
 keeping the same in order. 
 
 JANUARY. 
 
 If the covering of the beds of choice bulbs, herbaceous 
 plants, or tender shrubs, has been neglected last month, let 
 it be done forthwith. The season is now precarious, and 
 delays are dangerous. For particular directions, see Decem- 
 ber. Any bulbous roots that have been kept out of the 
 ground, should be planted immediately, according to direc- 
 tions in October. Some writers have recommended keeping 
 some of the bulbs until this month, in order to have a con- 
 tinued succession. Experience will prove the inefficiency of 
 the plan, and will satisfactorily show that the diflFerence is 
 almost imperceptible, while the flowers are very inferioi', 
 and much degenerated ; and, in place of having '' a long-con- 
 tinued succession of bloom/' there appear, along with your 
 finest specimens, very imperfect flowers, calculated to discou- 
 rage the admirers of these " gaudy" decoratives of our flower- 
 gardens. Whereas, every art employed should be to the 
 advancement and perfection of nature. 
 
 OF FRAMING, ETC. 
 
 The plants and roots that are in frames should be protect ■ 
 ed with straw, mats^and boards, and the frame surroundei. 
 with litter, or leaves, or, what is more advisable, banked 
 with turf — the former being a harbour for mice and other 
 vermin. For full directions, see Decemher. Under this 
 head, the plants, such as Auriculas, Polyanthus, Daisies, 
 Carnations, Pinlcs, Pentstemons, Campanula pyramidalis, 
 Double rochet, Douhle stock, or Stochgillys, Double \Yall' 
 Jloioer, Anemone, Ranuncxdtis, &c., as previously enumerated 
 as frame plants, will require very little water, and be sure 
 to give none while they are in a frozen state. If snow 
 2* 
 
22 OP PRUNING. {Jan. 
 
 should cover them, the plants will keep in a fine state under 
 it; so never remove snow from covering cold frames, even 
 suppose it should lie for weeks — nature will operate here 
 herself. But when framing cannot be obtained, they will, 
 in this latitude, keep tolerably, if gently covered with leaves 
 or litter, using means to secure them from being blown over 
 the garden. 
 
 OP PRUNING. 
 
 It is not advisable to carry on a general system of pruning 
 in this month, in whatever state the weather may be. The 
 severest frosts, generally, are yet to come, and too frequently 
 what is done now in this operation has to be repeated in the 
 spring, causing, at that time, work to a disadvantage ; 
 because, if pruning, when done just now, is accomplished 
 judiciously, whatever more is requisite to be done in the 
 spring on the same bush will be injudicious. Hence, it is 
 far preferable to delay it till the frost is nearly over, when 
 all can be done to advantage. There are, undoubtedly, hardy 
 trees and some shrubs, that may be pruned and thinned out 
 at any time from the first of November to the first of March ; 
 such as Crataegus, Sorbus, Spirea, and even Althea, in the 
 Middle States; (the Double white Althea is very tender, 
 and requires to be covered.) The tying together the loose 
 branches of Juniper, Cedar, and Arbor vitae should be 
 particularly attended to, as heavy snow frequently destroys 
 the shape of those handsome shrubs by breaking down the 
 branches, &c. — When the snow is heavy, the precaution of 
 shaking it off should be resorted to. In many seasons, the 
 beginning of this month is open, and admits of the operation 
 of digging in open quarters, which if not done, as advised 
 last mouth, ought not to be delayed. The fruits of it will 
 appear in the mellowed state of your soil in spring. 
 
 If there is any spare time, tallies, straight sticks, or stakes, 
 may be prepared for summer use. Tie them up in neat 
 bundles, which will be of great service during the hurried 
 period of the year. An opportunity of this kind should 
 always be laid hold of ; the beneficial results will, in season, 
 be displayed. 
 
Feb'] OP PRUNING, ETC. 28 
 
 FEBRUARY. 
 
 "When the borders and various compartments were dug in 
 the autumn, and compost, or a thin coating of well-decom 
 posed manure given, the advantage will now, in part, be ex- 
 perienced. If the weather is open about the end of the 
 month, the pruning should be done with the utmost des- 
 patch, that all may be prepared for a general dressing next 
 month, and let nothing be delayed which can now properly 
 be accomplished, under the idea that there is time enough. 
 
 OF PRUNING, ETC. 
 
 Grenerally, about the end of the month, the very severe 
 frosts are over, and when none need be apprehended that 
 would materially injure hardy shrubs, they may be freely 
 pruned, and the points cut of such shoots as may have been 
 damaged by the winter. Most of shrubs require nothing 
 more than to be thinned of straggling, irregular, and injured 
 branches, or of suckers, that rise round the root, observing 
 that they do not intermingle with each other. Never trim 
 them up in a formal manner; regular shearing of shrubs, 
 and topiary work, have been expelled as unworthy a taste 
 the least improved by reflections on beauty, simplicity, and 
 grandeur of nature. 
 
 In fact, the pruning of deciduous, hardy shrubs should be 
 done in such a manner as not to be observable when the 
 plants are covered with verdure. It may frequently be ob- 
 served in flower-gardens, that roses and shrubs of every de- 
 scription are indiscriminately cut with the shears, the Aynd.r- 
 phas, Vihurnums, and Althias sharing the same fate. 
 
 Rohinias, Coluteas, Cytisus, Rhus, Genistas, with several 
 of the Viburnums, and many others, bear their flowers on 
 the wood of last year, and, when thus sheared, afford no 
 gratification in flowering. And those shrubs that thus flower 
 on the shoots of last year are perhaps worse to keep in regu- 
 lar order than those to which the knife can be freely applied ; 
 but good management, while young, will insure handsome, 
 free, flowering plants. ^ , . ., p '-^ c$I> 
 
 •^- 
 
 'Dm 
 
 '^^ 
 
24 OF PRUNING, ETC. [Feb. 
 
 Climbing shrubs, and otbers that are trained against out- 
 buildings, walls, or such as are s^heltered therebj^, and not 
 now in danger of suffering by frost, may be pruned and 
 dressed. These should be neatly trimmed, and the branches 
 moderately thinned out, tying in all the shoots straight and 
 regular. Avoid, at all times, the crossing of any shoots. 
 
 There is not a shrub in the garden that agrees so well 
 with close cutting as the AltJiea, and all its varieties. These 
 can be made either bushes or trees, and kept at any desired 
 height. Where the wood of last year is cut to about two or 
 three inches from the wood of the former year, the young 
 shoots of the coming season will produce the largest and 
 finest flowers, and likewise more profusely. When they have 
 attained the desired height, let them be kept in the most 
 natural and handsome shape that the taste of the operator 
 can suggest. They will bear cutting to any degree. 
 
 Honeysuckles, of every description, may, with all free- 
 dom, be trimmed, providing the frost is not very severe. 
 These are very frequently allowed to become too crowded 
 with wood, and then superficially sheared or cut. The flowers 
 would be much finer, and the bush handsomer, if they 
 were regularly thinned out, divesting them of all naked and 
 superfluous shoots. Of those that remain, shorten the shoots 
 of last year. Where any of the honeysuckle kind has be- 
 come naked at the bottom, and flowering only at the top of 
 the trellis, or extremities of the shoots, one-half of the bush 
 should be cut to within four inches of the ground. It will 
 throw out plenty of fine, young wood, which give room for, 
 and train them straight, and to the full extent, during sum- 
 mer. These shoots will flower profusely the following sea- 
 son, and in like manner, when thought proper, the other 
 half can be cut. 
 
 Roses of the hardy kinds (termed garden roses) that were 
 not attended to in November, should, if the weather permit, 
 be dressed and pruned forthwith. In small gardens, where 
 these are generally attached to the walls and fences, neatness 
 should be a very particular object. If any of such bushes 
 have got strong and irregular, the most proper method to 
 bring them to order will be to cut down each alternate shoot 
 of the bush to within a few inches of the surface, thereby 
 renovating it, and, in part, preserving the flowers. Those 
 that are cut down will put out several luxuriant shoots, 
 
 LIBKAKir 
 
 13^ C. State CoIl««« 
 
Feb.'] OP PLANTING SHRUBS, ETC. 25 
 
 which must be regularly tacked in, spreading them in a fan 
 shape. These, in another year, will flower well, when the 
 others may go through the same operation. Thus, in two or 
 three years, the bushes will have resumed a different and 
 more agreeable aspect. By the above treatment, these orna- 
 ments of the garden will always have a neat and healthful 
 appearance, and the roses will be much finer. Where they 
 are intended for the borders, they should never be allowed 
 to get too high. In a border from four to sis feet, they 
 ought never to exceed four feet at the back of the border, 
 and in front one foot, after being pruned ; they can be kept 
 down by the above method. It is not advisable to cut down 
 rose bushes all at once, unless no regard is paid to flowering. 
 The roses that are in grass-plats, and interspersed through 
 the garden, would have a superior appearance in every 
 respect, if they were kept and trimmed like small trees. 
 They may be of different sizes and heights, according to the 
 distance they are from the walk. A single stem may arise 
 from six inches to six feet, with a head in proportion to the 
 height of the stem. Where it is necessary to have them above 
 two feet, and likewise to carry a good head, inoculation must 
 be resorted to, which, in the months of July and August, will 
 be fully treated of All under two feet (except the weak 
 growing kinds) will do on their own stems, taking care not 
 to allow shoots to arise from the bottom during the summer. 
 For directions for pruning climbing roses, see March and 
 April. 
 
 OF JfLANTINQ SHRUBS, ETC. 
 
 As soon as the frost is out of the gx*ound, these should be 
 planted, if the soil is not too wet. Where soil is binding, 
 upon no consideration plant it while wet ; rather defer it until 
 the end of March. 
 
 Trees and shrubs, if they are well arranged, are the chief 
 ornaments, give the most pleasure, and afford the greatest 
 delight that we enjoy in our gardens. Although they give 
 no sort of nourishment, nor produce any edible fruits, yet 
 they are particularly grateful, and conducive to our enjoy- 
 ments. Our walks in summer would be oppressive, but for 
 their agreeable shade ; in the fall and winter, we would be 
 3 
 
26 OF PLANTING SHRUBS, EIC. ^Feb 
 
 left exposed to the chilling winds, but for the shelter they 
 aflford. 
 
 Likewise, they produce a great variety of flowers, a varied 
 foliage, and are standing ornaments that give no great trouble. 
 In the character of screens, they are particularly useful, 
 whether to hide disagreeable objects, or as a guard against 
 the weather ; or, if they are planted in masses at a distance, 
 they soon become agreeable objects, frequently very much 
 improve the scenery of the place, become objects of utility as 
 well as ornament, and, in such case, afford the highest satis- 
 faction. When formed so as to exclude ofiices from the view 
 of the house, or for sheltering the latter, or for connecting 
 the house with the garden, orchard, or any similar purpose, 
 shrubs are both useful and interesting. 
 
 Where many shrubs are to be planted, the disposing of 
 them properly is a matter of considerable importance to the 
 future welfare of the whole ; and, whether deciduous or ever- 
 greens be mixed or grouped, that is, indiscriminately planted 
 together, or the evergreens planted by themselves, as is fre- 
 quently done, a regular and natural arrangement is indis- 
 pensable for establishing ornament. 
 
 Arranging, no doubt, depends very much on fancy ; still, 
 there ought always to be plenty of evergreens planted, that 
 the whole may be more cheerful in winter. 
 
 If shrubberies were made to a great extent, the scenery 
 would be much more varied and characteristic by grouping 
 judiciously than by indiscriminately planting. 
 
 However, in small flower-gardens and shrubberies, the 
 latter has to be adopted. In such places, tall-growing kinds 
 should never be introduced, unless merely as a screen from 
 some disagreeable object, for they crowd and confuse the 
 whole. The dwarf and more bushy sorts should be placed 
 nearest to the eye, in order that they may conceal the naked 
 stems of the others. Generally, when shrubs are planted, 
 they are small ; therefore, to have a good effect from the be 
 ginning, they should be planted closer than they are intended 
 to stand. When they have grown a few years, and interfere 
 with each other, they can be lifted, and such as have died, 
 or become sickly, replaced, and the remainder can be planted 
 m some other direction. Keep them always distinct, one 
 from another, in order that they may be the better shown 
 off. But, if it is not desired that they should be more 
 
Feb."] OF PLANTING SHRUBS, ETC. 21 
 
 thickly planted than it is intended to let them remain, the 
 small-growing kinds maybe six or eight feet apart; the larger, 
 or taller sorts, ten 'to twenty feet, according to the condition 
 of the soil. 
 
 Thick masses of shrubbery, called thickets, are sometimes 
 wanted. In these there should be plenty of evergreens. A 
 mass of deciduous shrubs has no imposing effect during 
 winter; and, as this is not the proper season for planting 
 evergreens (April, and the end of September, or first of 
 October being best), small stakes can be placed in the des- 
 tined spot. Planting in rows, or in any plan of a formal 
 character, should, at all times, be avoided. 
 
 In planting at this season, observe that the roots are not 
 much exposed to the air, especially if the wind be high and 
 sharp; but it is always better, if possible, to defer the busi- 
 ness until good, mild weather. According to directions in 
 November, the ground will be well prepared, and only re- 
 quires a hole dug for the reception of the roots, which must 
 be considerably larger, that the roots may not be in the least 
 confined. Break the earth well at bottom, put in as much 
 as will receive the plant from one to two inches (according 
 to its size) lower than it has previously been in the Nursery. 
 If any of the roots are bruised or broken, cut them off; 
 then place the plant in the centre of the hole, breaking fine 
 all the soil that is put in, at the same time shaking the stem 
 a little, that the earth may mix with the roots; when full 
 up, press all the soil down with the foot, that it may, in some 
 degree, consolidate about the roots, and support the plant. 
 Tall plants should have a good stake for support, and place 
 a small bandage between the stake and stem of the shrub or 
 tree, where the tie is made, to prevent the bark from suffer- 
 ing by friction. Observe, always, before planting, if the 
 soil is not suitable, to supply that which is congenial to the 
 nature of the intended plant. When shrubs or trees are to 
 be carried to any distance, the roots should be carefully kept 
 from air, by tying damp moss, straw, or mats about them, as 
 circumstances will admit : the success, in part, depends on 
 due attention being paid to prevent the roots drying bcf ire 
 planting. Although we have given the above directions for 
 planting in this month, it will frequently occur that they 
 can only be put into practice during the next, as this month 
 is often the severest of the season. 
 
28 OP HYACINTH AND OTHER BULBS. iMarch. 
 
 OF HYACINTH AND OTHER BULBS. 
 
 Towards the end of the month, if the weather proves 
 favourable, the covering should be partly taken off from the 
 Hyacinths, Tulips, and other bulbous roots. It sometimes 
 occurs that, by careless planting in the autumn, they are 
 thrown above ground by the frost, especially if the ground 
 is inclined to moisture, and they not being deep enough 
 planted ; if such is the case, cover them with decayed leaves, 
 old tan, or soil, whichever is most convenient; if not done, 
 the sun and air will overpower the bulbs, and although the 
 fibres have hold of the ground, the flowers will be miserably 
 weak. 
 
 MARCH. 
 
 As soon as the frost is entirely gone, uncover all plants 
 or shrubs that have been protected, preserving carefully such 
 of the materials as will answer the same purpose next sea- 
 son. Cut off all decayed shoots, or such as have been hurt 
 by the frost. The Lagerstroemias will flower in greater per- 
 fection, if they are pruned closely ; that is, cut the shoots 
 of last year to within two or three eyes of the wood of the 
 previous year, at the same time having regard to the regular 
 and natural shape of the bush. Cut off the injured foliage 
 of any of the evergreens that have suffered by the severity 
 of the winter, but leave every green part which is essential 
 to the support of this kind of plants. It is expected that 
 all pruning of the shrubbery is finished ; if not, get all ex- 
 peditiously done according to directions given in the preced- 
 ing months. All work that can be done in this month 
 should not be delayed, such as hoeing, digging, raking, and 
 clearine away all leaves and litter of every description that 
 have Deen brought or blown into the garden during autumn 
 or winter. 
 
Marchl OF FRAMING 29 
 
 OF FRAMING. 
 
 Where it is desired to have the more showy annuals early 
 in bloom, it is necessary to prepare a hot-bed frame, for the 
 purpose of bringing them forward. It is time, about the 
 first of the month, to collect and prepare manure for the de- 
 sired hot-bed; and, as that operation, in many instances, is 
 very imperfectly performed, a few observations on the subject 
 may be useful. 
 
 Take three parts of fresh hot stable manure, with one 
 part of fresh oak leaves. Have a sufficient quantity to make 
 the intended bed, or beds, from three to four feet high. 
 Shake and mix up both together in a compact, conical heap, 
 in order to encourage fermentation. If the weather is cold 
 and windy, cover it with straw or leaves and boards, which 
 is necessary to produce the desired effect. If fermentation 
 soon takes place, it will need to be thoroughly turned over 
 in eight or ten days. If any of it has become dry and musty 
 from excessive heat, as you proceed, water the affected parts, 
 pile all up neatly, and leave it protected in part as before. 
 In five or six days more, it will have to be turned again, re- 
 peating it until the first extreme heat has been over. In 
 neglect of this, the heat, after making up the bed, will be 
 vehement for a week or two, frequently destroying the vege- 
 tative purity of the soil, and proving destructive to the seeds. 
 
 Allowing the manure to come to a lively heat, having no 
 unpleasant, rancid smell, proceed to mark off your intended 
 bed, running it east and west, as nearly as possible, measure 
 your frame, and allow the site of the bed eight inches, each 
 way, larger than the frame : at the corners, place a stick or 
 rod perpendicularly. The ground ought to be higher than 
 that around it, to prevent water from getting into the bed, 
 which, if low, must be filled up ; or, if supposed that water 
 may lodge there, a little brushwood might be put under the 
 manure, which would keep it from being inundated. The 
 manure must be built up square and level, shaking, mixing 
 and beating it regularly with the back of the fork. When 
 you have it to the desired height (from two to three feet 
 will be sufficient for annuals), leave the centre of the bed a 
 little higher than the sides, thus allowing it more to subside. 
 When finished, put on the frame and sash, or sashes, keep 
 3* 
 
30 LIST OF CEOICE ANNUALS, ETC. [J/arc/i. 
 
 them close until the heat arises, covering them at night with 
 mats or shutters. As soon as jou feel the heat increased, 
 give air bj tilting the sashes a few inches, to let off the 
 steam and stagnated air, observing to close in the afternoon, 
 and cover at night. If the heat is violent, about half an 
 inch of air might be left during the night. In about three 
 days, if all has been properly attended to, the bed will be 
 what is termed sweet. Then put in about six inches of fine 
 garden soil ; if heavy, mix a little sand with it. Spread it 
 level, and, when the soil is heated through, sow in small 
 drills, from one-eighth to an inch deep, according to the size 
 of the seeds ; cover with very fine sifted soil. Some very 
 small kinds do best when sown upon the surface. When 
 sown, give gentle sprinklings of water until they come up, 
 when it will be necessary to give air freely during the day, 
 to prevent them from being weak, or damping off, which 
 many of them will do if they have not air regularly admitted. 
 
 A LIST OF CHOICE FLOWERING ANNUALS ADAPTED FOR 
 SOWING ON A HOT-BED. 
 
 Alyssum calycina, white, fragrant. 
 Argeratum Mexicanum, blue-flowered Argeratum. 
 Asclepias curassavica, swallow wort, orange and red-flowered 
 Aster Chinensis, China Aster, or Queen Margarets, in great 
 
 variety. The late imported German and Italian Astera 
 
 are of extraordinary beauty. 
 Balsamina hortensis. Balsam, commonly called Ladies' 
 
 Slipper. 
 Browallia alata, upright blue and white Browallia. 
 Cacalia coccinea, scarlet Cacalia, or Venus' Paint Brush. 
 
 sonchifolia, orange Cacalia. 
 
 Calandrinia discolor, rosy purple, very pretty. 
 
 Celosia cristata. Coxcomb, two varieties, red and yellow. 
 
 Centaurea Americana, Aruerican Sultan. 
 
 ' suaveolens, yellow and sweet Sultan. 
 
 Clarkia elegans, elegant rose-coloured Clarkia. 
 
 pulchella, showy purple Clarkia. 
 
 ' ■- alba, white-flowered Clarkia. 
 
 Cleome grandiflora, large lilac-flowering spider-plant, 
 Clintonia elegans, elegant blue Clintonia. 
 
March.'\ LIST OF CHOICE ANNUALS, ETC. 31 
 
 Collinsia bicolor, two-coloured Collinsia. 
 
 heterophylla, lilac and wliite. 
 
 Commelina coelestis, blue-flowering Commelina. 
 
 Diaathus Chinensis, China pink, many fine double varieties. 
 
 Gomphrena globosa, red and white globe Amaranthus. 
 
 iloveyii, orange-coloured. 
 
 Hibiscus manihot, large yellow Hibiscus. 
 
 Africanus major, buff with black centre. 
 
 Helichrysum bracteatum, ) -rr n i ,• 
 
 „ '' J 7 • 7 y Yellow everlasting. 
 
 Aernuthemuin iuciaum, j ° 
 
 T 1 1 C Rose-coloured flowers like the 
 
 Lophospermumerubescens,) d; it^^s, a fine climber for 
 
 ' ( arbours. 
 T 1 f •+• I Orange red, an interesting climbing plant, 
 
 Loasa lateritia, | blooming throughout the season. 
 Malope alba, white-flowering Malope. 
 
 grandiflora, large red-flowering Malope. 
 
 Mathiola annua, all the varieties of ten week stocks sliould 
 
 be industriously cultivated, and seed sown also in 
 
 April and May for autumn blooming. 
 Maurandia Barclayana, blue-flowering, '\ Climbing plants for 
 
 semperflorens, pink-flowering, v pillars, trellises or 
 
 alba, white, ) arbours 
 
 Mesembryanthemum. 
 
 crystallinum, Ice plant. 
 
 IMimosa pudica, Sensitive plant. 
 
 Mimulus, ]\Ionkey flower of sorts. They grow best in moist 
 
 half -shady places, are very pretty, generally bright 
 
 colours of yellow spotted with crimson or rose. 
 Petunias of variety, a beautiful genus of plants, of every 
 
 variety of colour, from deep purple to pure white, 
 
 blooming from June till frost; the seeds are small, and 
 
 require to be very lightly covered. 
 Phlox Drummondii, and its varieties of crimson, rose, lilac, 
 
 and white. 
 Portulaca splendens, splendid purple-flowered Purslane 
 
 Thorburnii, yellow. 
 
 • alba, white. 
 
 ek-gans, crimson. 
 
 Thellussonii, red-flowered. 
 
 Salpiglossis picta, atropurpurea, &c., delight in a cool sitaa- 
 
 tion. 
 
82 LIST OF CHOICE ANNUALS, ETC \_March. 
 
 Scbizanthus retusus, orange-coloured " 
 Schizanthus, 
 
 pinnatus, calico Schizan- 
 
 Like a rich soil, and 
 a cool and partially 
 shaded situation. 
 
 thus, 
 
 And a few other varieties, 
 
 Shortia Californica, yellow Shortia, very profuse flowering. 
 
 Tagetes, Marigold, the new varieties of the French are 
 very pretty — they like rich soil and plenty of mois- 
 ture. 
 
 Tropaeolum aduncum, Canary bird flower, a beautiful climber. 
 
 atrosanguineum, crimson Nastur^ ' 
 
 tium, Climbing 
 
 Thunbergia alata, buff with black centre, )■ plants. 
 
 alba, white-flowered, 
 
 aurantiaca, fine orange. 
 
 Verbena, a lovely family of pretty procumbent plants, that 
 bloom from June till frost — a packet of seeds will 
 produce every colour and shade from white to 
 crimson. 
 
 Vinca rosea, Madagascar Periwinkle, ~) Thrive best in a warm, 
 
 alba, white-flowered Pe- >- dry situation, with 
 
 riwinkle. i rich soil. 
 
 Zmnia elegans, splendid Zmnia, ^ ^ ^^ -^ ^^^ 
 coccmea, scarlet, 1 g ^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^ 
 
 alba, wnite, ^^^^ supplied with water 
 
 ■ pauciflora,yellow, J ^-^ 
 
 are 
 
 Though the above will bloom much earlier by being sown 
 on a hot-bed, yet where that convenience cannot be obtained, 
 they will all succeed treated as hardy annuals. 
 
 After sowing, if the weather be clear, the sun acting on 
 the glass will produce a too rapid evaporation of the mois- 
 ture of the soil, and may otherwise affect seeds but thinly 
 covered, which must be guarded against by shading with 
 mats for a few hours during bright sunshine. In giving 
 water, it ought always to be about milk-warm, and passed 
 through a fine rose, to prevent the stems being broken oi 
 bruised. Weeds must be drawn out as soon as they ap 
 pear 
 
March.2 jtardy annuals. 
 
 HARDY ANNUALS. 
 
 Many annual plants, though of short duration, are pos- 
 sessed of much beauty of hue and elegance of form : they 
 are farther valuable from their adaptation in filling up va- 
 cant spots through the flower-garden or parterre. They are, 
 besides, of easy culture, many requiring nothing more than 
 to have the seeds sown in the spot where they are to grow. 
 The first sowing may take place about the end of the month, 
 when the ground is prepared and the weather fine ; but avoid 
 it at all times when the ground will not pulverize properly. 
 The neatest and most expeditious method is to take a rod 
 about one foot long and one inch in diameter, rounding at 
 the end, with which draw a circle from four to nine inches 
 in diameter, and from one-eighth of an inch to an inch deep, 
 according to the size of the seeds. Many very small seeds 
 will grow best, if sown on the surface of fine mould. "When 
 sown, cover with fine mould, placing a small twig or tally, 
 with the name, in the centre of the circle, to prevent mistakes 
 either in sowing, planting, or hoeing. When they have 
 grown from one to two inches, the first moist day should be 
 taken to remove such as are too crowded, which can be gene- 
 rally transplanted to some other situation ; taking care to 
 shade them a few days with flower-pots, or some other 
 substitute. A few kinds do best with removing, such as 
 Balsams, China Asters, Marigold, ten week stocks. Hibis- 
 cus, Zinnias, and several others of a free-growing and 
 strong-wooded nature. Annuals are such plants as grow 
 from seed, flower and perfect their productions, and then die 
 within one year. The following sorts are well deserving of 
 culture : — 
 
 Adonis miuiata, Flos Adonis or Pheasant's eye, red. 
 Amaranthus caudatus, Love lies Bleeding, red and yellow 
 variety. 
 
 — bypochondriacus, Prince's Feather, red. 
 
 Amaranthus tricolor ; three-coloured Amaranthus should be 
 sown on ra*^her poor soil — on rich soil it has littlo 
 beauty. 
 3* 
 
8-i HARDY ANNUALS. iMarch. 
 
 Brachycome iberidifolia, fine dark blue. 
 
 Bi-ugmansia \Va3'meria, double-flowered, large, and showy. 
 
 Ceutaurea moschata, purple sweet Sultan. 
 
 cretica, white sweet Sultan. 
 
 suaveolens, yellow sweet Sultan. 
 
 Collinsia grandiflora, blue Collins' flower. 
 
 Convolvulus, minor, dwarf blue Bindweed. 
 
 Calliopsis bicolor, formerly Coreopsis tinctoria, or Fair Eye ; 
 a very gay plant, and flowers best when sown in 
 October. 
 
 Drummondii, yellow calliopsis. 
 
 Crepis rubra, red Hawkweed. 
 
 aurea, golden Hawkweed. 
 
 Delphinium ajacis, Rocket Larkspur, many varieties, all su- 
 perb, and do best to be sown in rich ground 
 in October. 
 
 — ^ consolida, branching Larkspur, various colours. 
 
 Euphorbia variegata, variegated Euphorbia. 
 
 Eschscholtzia crocea, Orange. (Now chryseis.^ 
 
 Calfornica, yellow. 
 
 Erysimum Perowfi"skyanum, bright orange. 
 
 Gilia tricolor, three-coloured Gilia, ") 
 
 capitata, blue-coloured, > Bloom all summer. 
 
 Achill^efolia, large blue, ) 
 
 Heliophila Araboides, blue sun love, very pretty. 
 
 Hieracium mutabilis, changeable Hawkweed. 
 
 Helianthus Californicus, suj^erb double dwarf sunflower. 
 
 Iberis amara, white Candytuft. 
 
 umbellata, purple Candytuft. 
 
 violacea, violet Candytuft. 
 
 odorata, white sweet-scented Candytuft. 
 
 Ipomcea Cjuamoclit, Cypress vine, the seed will grow freely, 
 if soaked two or three hours in hot water. 
 
 alba, white. 
 
 Lathyrus odoratus, sweet Pea, of many varieties. 
 
 Leptosiphon densiflorus, dense-flowered Leptosiphon. 
 
 Loasa lateritia, orange-coloured Loasa, a climbing plant. 
 
 Luoinus, many varieties ; they require to be partially shaded 
 
 from hot suns. 
 Malope grandiflora, scarlet Malope. 
 
 alba, white. 
 
Sfarch.} BOX EDGINGS. 35 
 
 Mirabilis jalapa, marvel of Peru, many varieties. If the 
 roots of this plant are lifted in October, and placed 
 in a dry cellar, free from frost, and planted out next 
 April, they will bloom much finer. 
 
 Nemophila iusignis, or blue Grove Love, a pretty dwarf 
 plant, requiring rich soil and a half-shaded 
 situation. 
 
 ■ atomaria, white with black spots. 
 
 maculata, spotted, healitiful. 
 
 Nigella Damacene, Love in a mist. 
 
 Hispanica, Spanish, blue and b/own. 
 
 ffiaothera, or tree Primrose ; many varieties of the annual 
 species produce their flowers in much greater perfec- 
 tion, if planted or sown in poor soil. To this, a7isi- 
 loha, sinuata, and tctrajytera are exceptions, as they 
 flower the finest in a rich, light loam. 
 
 Papaver Marseillii, double white poppy, edged with red. 
 
 gigantea, large Dutch poppy. 
 
 Phlox Drumniondii, many colours ; a superb article, and 
 blooms from May till October. In dry situations, it 
 is apt to die ofi' unless partially shaded. 
 
 Reseda odorata, Mignonette; to have it in perfection the 
 whole season, there should be a sowing in May and 
 July. It delights in a rich, loamy soil. 
 
 Tourncfortia heliotropoides, summer Heliotrope. 
 
 Viscaria oculata, violet viscaria. 
 
 A^'iola tricolor. Pansy or Heart's-ease, require very rich soil, 
 and should be shaded from hot sun ; if sown early in 
 the season, they will flower profusely in the autumn. 
 
 For other varieties of Annuals, see list adapted for hot-bed 
 sowing. \Ye have omitted many not agreeing with our cli- 
 mate, or those very common; for such, we refer our readers 
 to the lists published annually by respectable seedsmen. 
 
 BOX EDGINGS 
 
 May be planted any time this month, or beginning of 
 next, which in most seasons will be preferable. We will 
 give a few simple directions how to accomplish the work. 
 In the first place, dig over the ground decjily where the 
 
36 GRASS AND OTHER EDGINGS. [March. 
 
 edging is intended to be planted, breaking the soil fine, ana 
 keeping it to a proper height, namely, about one inch higher 
 than the side of the walk j but the taste of the operator will 
 best decide, according to the situation. Rake the surface 
 even, and tread it down with the feet, or beat it with the 
 spade. Where it gives most, continue to add, keeping the 
 surface at the desired height. If the edging is to be in a 
 direct line, either on a level or inclined plane, you may be 
 correctly and simply regulated by making the desired level 
 at each end of the line. Take three rods, about four feet 
 long each, having a piece of one foot to cross at one end, two 
 of these pieces painted black, the other white. Have a black 
 one at each end of the line on the level ; take the white one for 
 the centre, going along the line, and, about every twenty feet, 
 level a spot to the exact height, which will be seen by look- 
 ing over the top of the rods from one end. Having found 
 the level, drive in a peg to it, so that no mistake may occur; 
 beat and level between them, leaving a smooth surface. 
 This being done, strain the line, and with the spade proceed 
 to cut out the trench perpendicularly on the side next the 
 walk, six, eight, ten, or twelve inches deep, according to the 
 length of the plants. Afterwards take the plants, and cut 
 the tops even, with the knife or shears, at the same time 
 shortening the roots. Then with the left hand next the line, 
 plant forward, keeping the tops of the plants level, and from 
 one to two inches above ground, keeping the plants close, 
 according to the required thickness. Put in the earth as you 
 proceed, and tread it firm, then rake the surface even, and 
 with the spade beat it smooth. If the weather sets in very 
 dry, the box will be the better of a few waterings. Some- 
 times boxwood is planted without roots, but it seldom gives 
 satisfaction, not growing equally. 
 
 GRASS AND OTHER EDGINGS. 
 
 Grass verges for walks and borders, although frequently 
 used, are by no means desirable, except where variety is re- 
 quired; they are the most laborious to keep in order, and 
 at best are inelegant, and the only object in their favour is 
 their being everywhere accessible. Iris humilis, Viola tri- 
 color, thyme, Sea Pink (Stattice Armeyia), Mignonette, 
 
March.^ hardy biennials. 37 
 
 Phlox subulata, and Plox procuinbens, all make tolerable 
 edgings. In the Southern States, Euonymus Japonica, kept 
 closely sheared^ will make a very handsome green edging. 
 
 HARDY BIENNIALS. 
 
 Biennial plants are such as are of two years' duration. 
 Being sown this year, they flower, seed, or fruit next year, 
 and soon after decay : the seeds should be sown about the 
 end of this month or beginning of next, either in the spot 
 where they are to remain or a compartment by themselves, 
 regularly marked, and to be transplanted in May or Septem- 
 ber. When they appear above ground, thin them out dis- 
 tinctly, that, when they are to be removed, a little earth may 
 adhere to them : and if sown where they are to stand, leave 
 only three or four plants in each patch. The following list 
 are a few of the free-blooming and more elegant sorts : — 
 
 Agrostemma coronaria. Rose Campion, blooms all summer. 
 Althea rosea. Hollyhock, and all its varieties, very showy in 
 
 July and August. When any very desirable variety 
 
 is procured, it can be multiplied by dividing the root. 
 Antirrhinum majus, Snap-dragon, and its varieties, require 
 
 to be protected during winter with a few leaves or 
 
 litter. 
 Cantua coronopifolia, flowers in August and September, 
 
 beautiful scarlet, delights in dry gravelly soil. 
 
 Ipomopsis elegans. 
 Campanula media, dark blue Canterbury^ 
 
 bell, 
 Campanula media, semi-pleno, half double I Bloom in June 
 
 Canterbury bell, [ and July. 
 
 Campanula media, alba, white Canterbury 
 
 bell, _ j 
 
 Campanula thyrsoides. 
 Cheiranthus cheiri. Wall-flower, should be protected by leaves 
 
 or boards during winter. 
 Digitalis purpurea, purple Foxglove. 
 
 alba, white Foxglove. 
 
 Digitalis guttata, spotted Foxglove. 
 Dianthus barbatus. Swe:t William, p;uk, 
 4 
 
38 PERENNIALS. \_March 
 
 Dianttus barbatns, coccineus, crimson pink. 
 
 ■ fl. pi. double-flowered : the double sorts 
 
 can be propagated by laying, same as 
 carnations. 
 
 Grerardia purpurea, purple Gerardia. '\ Natives of 
 
 flava, yellow Gerardia, y this coun- 
 
 — quercifolia, spotted-flowered Gerardia, ) try. 
 
 Hcdysarium coronarium, red-flowered French Honeysuckle. 
 
 Humea elegans, scarlet Humea, flowers in June and Sep- 
 tember. 
 
 Lunaria biennis, Honesty, various colours ; not beautiful, but 
 curious in seed. 
 
 (Enothera corymbosa, dwarf Evening Primrose. 
 
 Papaver nudicaule, naked-stemmed yellow Poppy. 
 
 Scabiosa atropurpurea, musk-scented Scabious. 
 
 Silene multiflora, many-flowered Catch-fly. 
 
 There might be many other beautiful biennial plants enu- 
 merated, which are justly considered worthy of attention j 
 but most of them do not withstand the severity of our win- 
 ters, although very much prized in'England. 
 
 PERENNIALS. 
 
 In every flower-garden, there ought to be a good selection 
 of these plants. They are lasting ornaments ; and, when 
 judiciously selected, will give yearly gratification. In mak- 
 ing a choice, a view should be to have those that flower 
 abundantly, are of free growth, beauty, and continuation of 
 bloom. It would go beyond our limits to give an extensive 
 description of any, but a few remarks on some of the finest, 
 with their names, are indispensable. 
 
 Adonis verndlis is a fine border-flower, and will grow in 
 any common soil ; flowers large, yellow-rayed, having in the 
 rays about twelve petals; leaves much divided; blooms in 
 April and May. 
 
 Anemone, Wind-flower. Several fine species, with flowers 
 from one to three inches in diameter, very celebrated in Eu- 
 rope, though succeeding poorly with us except in cool lati- 
 tudes. A. alpina, large white. A. japonica, rosy purple. 
 A., palmata Jlbre-pUno yellow; A. stelldta Jjerstco/o;-, various 
 
March.] PERENNIALS. 39 
 
 coloured; A. pavomna fibre-pUno, scarlet; A. narcissi-Jlbra, 
 white. Any of these are very desirable, 
 
 Antirrhinums, Snap-dragon. All the varieties of A. 
 majus are esteemed in the flower-borders; the pure white, 
 bright red, rich crimson, and variegated, are very showy. A 
 few of the species, A. mdlle and A. siculum, where there is 
 variety required, deserve a situation. The flowers are all 
 large, and similar to the snout of an animal. 
 
 Anthericum lilidstrum, St. Burnos Lily, is an excellent 
 liliaceous plant, with orange-yellow flowers, blooming in June, 
 July, and August and will grow in any common garden 
 soil. 
 
 AscUpias. The finest of thia genus are native plants, 
 and are highly esteemed in Europe, but frequently rejected 
 with us, because ''they are wild plants." A. tuherusa has 
 beautiful orange flowers, and delights in dry situations. A. 
 rubra, A. nevia, A. furpurdscens, and A. incarndta are 
 the finest of the family. It is best to plant A. tuherusa in 
 October. 
 
 Aconitiims, Wolfsbane, one hundred and twenty-eight 
 distinct species, with several varieties. Many of them are 
 of consequence and beauty; the flower-stems rise from one 
 and a half to six feet upright, and strong, furnished with 
 many palmate and digitate leaves, terminated by spikes of 
 blue, yellow, or white flowers, similar to a hood; hence the 
 name of Monk's hood is often applied to them. They are 
 scarce in collections ; but, in a few years, we have no doubt 
 but many of them will be plentiful. The finest species are 
 A. sjjecidsum, A. sieholdii, large dark blue, A. pyrcnaiacum, 
 branching blue, A. napellus, A. venustuvi, A. p)yramidule, 
 A. Ji/cdlonvm, A. versicolor, or variegatum, and A. grandi- 
 Jiorura. They flower from May to September, and will grow 
 in any common garden soil. The roots of A. nap6Uns are 
 like small turnips, and are poisonous. They like a little shado 
 and rich soil. 
 
 Bellis perennis hortinsis, Daisy. We might almost say 
 with another, "Everyone knows the Daisy." It is named 
 from being pretty, and is perfectly hardy, though generally 
 kept under cover. They delight to have a shaded situation 
 during summer, to protect them from the sun, which, as it 
 were, scorches the roots. There are many double varieties in 
 the gardens, which flower early. The one called Crvicn ov 
 
40 PERENNIALS. \_Marc7i. 
 
 Carnation Daisy is twice the size of the common varieties, 
 and has white and red petals alternately and very double. 
 The Belgian varieties are very numerous, but few of them are 
 equal to our old sorts. Loamy soil, inclined to moisture, is 
 best adapted to their growth. 
 
 Campanula. This genus affords very many ornamental 
 plants for the Flower-garden and Shrubbery, and they fiower 
 superbly during the summer, agreeing better with our climate 
 than with that of Europe. Many have two successions of 
 flowers, C. persicifdlia alba plena ; G. persicifblia cceridea 
 pUno; C. urticifolia, white. Of this last there is also a 
 double variety. C. nohilis, large pale lilac, spotted with crim- 
 son; C. Jio&z7is a?6a, white, spotted with crimson; C. grand is, 
 fine bright blue. C. speciosa; C glomerata ; C. versicolor, 
 with several others, are worthy of a situation in every garden. 
 Their roots are strong, fleshy, and fibrous. They are easy of 
 culture, and will retain their situation in the severest of our 
 winters. C. grandiflbra is now Wahlinhergia grandijibra. 
 It has superb large blue flowers, stems are slender, and require 
 support. 
 
 Cheirdntlius Gheiri vulgaris is the common garden Wall- 
 flower. There are about ten varieties of it, all admired for 
 their various colours and agreeable odour. The common 
 variety survives the mildest of our winters. The most 
 esteemed variety is li(xmdnthus, Double bloody. They should 
 all be protected by a frame. G. mutdhilis is a beautiful species; 
 it has many shades of colour, from lilac to dark purple. The 
 flowers are on extending racemose spikes, blooming from April 
 to June; it requires a light rich soil; is a half-shrubby ever- 
 green plant. 
 
 CMlone. This genus belongs entirely to this continent, 
 and possesses many fine species. It is a matter of astonish- 
 ment that they are not more cultivated and sought for in our 
 collections. C. glabra; G. obliqua; C. barbdta; G. atro- 
 purparea ; C . pxdcliella ; and G. specibsa', are all handsome, 
 and flower from May to September ; corolla large, ringent, 
 ventricose; flowers in spikes or panicles. 
 
 Ghrysdntliemums. The Chinese Chrysanthemum was first 
 introduced to the garden of the King of France about sixty 
 years ago, and shortly after about ten varieties were sent from 
 Canton to England, a gardener having been sent out expressly 
 for them, so much were they admired by Sir Abraham Hume 
 
March.] PERENNIALS. 41 
 
 There are now over two hundred varieties, far excelling the 
 old sorts, and even surpassing the critical anticipations of the 
 most ardent connoisseurs. A ftew years ago we would have 
 been satisfied with a good dozen, but now four times that 
 number will not embrace all their beauties which have origi- 
 nated in France, England, and the United States. The follow- 
 ing list we can admit as now unrivalled : 
 
 Large Flowered. 
 
 Annie Salter, fine yellow. 
 Baron de Solomon, rosy crimson. 
 Defiance, lemon yellow. 
 Julia Langdale, rosy purple. 
 Liencour, lilac and orange. 
 Magnificent, blush. 
 Mrs. Cope, dark crimson purple. 
 President de Abbeville, crimson. 
 Queen, early blush. 
 Racine, straw tipped with bronze. 
 Sphinx, bright claret. 
 William Penn, creamy white. 
 White Perfection, pure white. 
 
 Pompone or Lilliputian Flowered. 
 
 Cybelle, amber and gold. 
 
 Harriet Lebois, rosy carmine. 
 
 Hendersonii, fine early yellow. 
 
 Henriette Chauviere, blush. 
 
 La Fiance, white. 
 
 La Gitana, blush pink. 
 
 Larty, rosy crimson. 
 
 Mignonette, rose. 
 
 Paquerette, white shaded crimson. 
 
 Sacramento, dark yellow red centime. 
 
 Triomph de Bordeux, shaded blush. 
 
 Vartigene, crimson. 
 
 To grow these in perfection, they require rich light soil ; 
 and about the end of this month the roots should be lift- 
 ed, divided, and planted into fresh soil, either by giving 
 4. * 
 
42 PERENNIALS. [i/arc/t. 
 
 them a new situation, or changing the earth they wei-e in 
 Two or three stems together are quite sufficient. The 
 flowers, by the above treatment, will be much larger, more 
 double, and finer in colour ; where they are wanted to grow 
 low and bushy, top them in June, but not later than the 
 first of July. Where the soil is rich, and the plant having 
 only one stem, by topping it, makes a beautiful bush. They 
 are in flower from the first of October until severe frost ; 
 thus beautifying our gardens at a season when they would 
 be destitute of one single attraction. If the season be dry, 
 to water them with liquid manure will add to their vigour. 
 They are all natives of China, and greatly esteemed by the 
 Chinese, who only allow a few blooms to come out on the 
 top of each stem, thereby having the flowers much finer. 
 
 Clematis, Virgin's-bower. A few species are good herba- 
 ceous plants, of upright growth and blue flowers, C. intcgri- 
 fblia ; C. angustifblia ; and 0. erecta ; they grow best in 
 light soil. 
 
 Coreopsis, chiefly native plants, and free-flowering ; colour 
 principally yellow ; flowers rayed. C. tenuifdlia, C. verii- 
 cilldta, C. discolor, and C. iripteris, are the finest of the genus, 
 and will grow in any common garden soil. 
 
 Delpjhiniuvis. There are some showy border flowers of 
 these, of strong growth. The leaves are much divided; the 
 flowers in terminal spikes; colour blue, purple, pink, white 
 and yellow, with various shades. D. grandiflbrum, and its 
 varieties, are the best of the genus. D. intermedium, and 
 its varieties, D. elation, Bee Larkspur, from the ringent 
 part of the flower being very like a bee, D. Chinense, dark 
 blue, D. Barloioii, large bright blue, and D. monidrnim, 
 are good varieties, and easily cultivated. When the plants 
 become large, they ought to be divided, and planted in fresh 
 soil. They are in bloom from May to September. 
 
 Didnthiis. Some of the species of this genus are the most 
 prominent of the flower-garden, not only for their beauty, 
 but also their fragrance, which is peculiarly grateful, espociiilly 
 in the well-known and celebrated Pink and Carnation, with 
 the Sweet William, which was esteemed in the days of old 
 ''for its beauty to deck up the bosoms of the beautiful, and 
 garlands and crowns for pleasure." The finest species are 
 D. larbdtus and D. harhutus pleno, Sweet William ; D. 
 discolor ; D. ohinensis ; J), aljjimis ; D. superhus ; D. 
 
March.'] perennials. 43 
 
 carynphi/Il'iis, from which have origiuated the Picotee and 
 the Carnation ; D. plumdrius, from which originated the 
 Double Pink. Several of these, although they will stand 
 the severest cold, have to be protected in frames during 
 winter, to have them in the perfection of beauty. For the 
 character of a Pink and Carnation, see Mai/. 
 
 Dictdnmus. Two species of this genus, D. fraxinella and 
 D. dlbus, have been cultivated and esteemed upwards of two 
 hundred and forty years. A plant of the first of these spe- 
 cies, when gently rubbed, emits an odour like that of lemon- 
 peel ; and when bruised emits a balsamic scent, which is 
 strongest in the pedicles of the flowers. They have glands 
 of a rusty colour, that exude a viscid juice, or resin, which 
 exhales in vapour, and in a dark place may be seen to take 
 fire. Its flowers are red, those of the other white, in loose 
 terminal spikes ; the flower has five petals, clawed and 
 unequal, with glandular dots ; in bloom from May to July ; 
 delights in sandy loam. 
 
 Dodecdtheon. This is a native genus, and commonly 
 called American cowslip. The generic term, a name of the 
 Romans, signifying twelve gods or divinities, is applied with 
 great absurdity to a plant, a native of a world the Romans 
 never saw nor had any idea of; neither resembling in any par- 
 ticular the poetical fancy of their writers. The most admired 
 species is I), media ; the flowers are in umbels, on a pedicle, 
 from six to twelve inches high ; the corolla is rotata reflexa^ 
 colour light purple, bottom of petals lake and yellow ; bloom- 
 ing in May. The white variety is very much esteemed, and 
 surpasses the preceding. The ground is pure white, the 
 bottom of the petals the same as the other. There is also 
 a spotted variety found on the banks of the Missouri. They 
 delight in brown loam, a half shady situation, inclining to 
 moisture. The foliage soon decays after flowering. 
 
 Dracocejjhalum, JDragon's Head, about twenty species, 
 mostly ornamental. D. virrjinicum is a profuse blooming 
 plant, with bluish-pink flowers, and grows about four feet 
 high. D. aryunense is a superb dwarf, with large dark blue 
 flowers. 
 
 Dieli/tra spectahilis, a new and verjr splendid Fumwort of 
 dwarf liabit, with a profusion of large delicately shaded pink 
 flowers during June and July. 
 
 Enpaidriums. These generally are native plants, not 
 
44 PERENNIALS. iMarch. 
 
 worthy of notice here, except for two species. U. ccelesti- 
 num has syngenesious flowers in flattened panicles, colour 
 fine light blue, blooming from September to November ; de- 
 sirable for its beauty at that season. E. ai-omdtlcum may be 
 cultivated for its spicy odour ; flowers white, in loose terminal 
 panicles; blooming from August to October. Either of them 
 will grow in common soil. 
 
 Funkia, Japan Day Lily, three species, all beautiful, i^. 
 coerulea, with blue flowers, i^. japonica, pure white, and F. 
 variegata, with striped leaves and flowers. F. laurifolia, 
 early blue. This genus has been separated from HemerocdUis. 
 
 Gentidnas, a genus of very showy plants, and flower. in 
 great abundance. The flowers are tubular and inflated; 
 colour generally blue. A few species are yellow, and some 
 white; flowers in whorls, terminal or solitary. They grow 
 best in a light rich soil. G. lutea, G. i^urpiirea, G. septem- 
 fida. G. acaiilis is a pretty dwarf-growing species, the 
 flower dark and light blue; interior of the corolla spotted; 
 has a succession of flowers from April to June. These are 
 fine exotics, but may give place to our native species, such as 
 G. Catesbcei ; G. ochroleuca ; G. incarndta; with several 
 others, and G. crindta, which is a biennial, and finely fringed; 
 colovir light blue. 
 
 Geum. There are only four species that are worth culti- 
 vation, namely, G. qu^Uyon, once G. coccineum ; G. sjjlen- 
 dens, G. Wicea, and G. liyhridum. G. urhimum is some- 
 times cultivated for its roots, which, when chewed, sweeten 
 the breath. They are all of easy culture. G. quellyon and 
 splendens flower from May to October, and are very desirable 
 plants for the borders, and much esteemed in Europe. 
 
 Hemerocdllisj Day Lily; three species, H. fuha, H. gra- 
 minea, and H. Sieholdii, flower well, and are remarkable 
 among the border flowers for their large yellow or copper- 
 coloured corollas, some of them about six inches in diameter ; 
 bloom from May to July, and will grow in almost any soil 
 There is a plant known in our gardens as H. coerMea, which 
 is Funhia coerulea, and has a campanulate corolla, with a 
 cylindrical tube ; flowers in spikes ; leaves ovate, acixminate. 
 
 Hibiscus. There are several herbaceous species very 
 showy and handsome, H. palustris ; H. roseus ; H. militd- 
 ris ; H. specibsus ; H. grandijlbrus ; and IT. j^tingens. They 
 grow best in moist situations, and where these are not to be 
 
March.'] PERENNIALS. 45 
 
 had, give them plenty of water, and plant in sandy soil 
 enriched with decayed leaves. The flowers are about six 
 inches in diameter, flowering up the stem, either solitary or 
 m small bunches. H. specibsus is the most splendid, and 
 deserves a situation in every garden. The roots in winter 
 ought to be covered with litter, tan, or sawdust; but a 
 better method is to lift them, and put them in the cellar, 
 covered with dry earth, and kept from the frost. All the 
 above-mentioned species are improved by being protected 
 during winter. 
 
 Iris, Flower-de-lis, has many fine species of various shades 
 and colours, /. suhijlora, I. nepaUnsis, I. PaUdsii, I. pallida, 
 I. cristdta, I. arcndria, I. furcdta, I. germdncia, I. Jloren- 
 txna, I. verna, and /. susidna. The last is the finest of the 
 herbaceous species ; the flowers are very large and curiously 
 spotted with brown ; it stands the severest of our winters 
 unprotected. The root of /. Jlorenthia is the orris root of 
 the druggists. They are all of easy culture in any loamy 
 soil inclining to moisture. The bulbous species will be 
 treated of in September or October. Corolla six-petalled, 
 three erect and three reclined alternately ; proceeding from 
 spathes or sheaths with flowers in succession. 
 
 Liairis is a genus of native plants, containing sevei'al fine 
 species, L. squarrdsa, large purple heads of beautiful flowers ; 
 L. 6legans • L. pianiciildta. L. macrdstachya, now L. spicdta, 
 is a fine large-growing species. They have syngenesious pur- 
 ple flowers in long close spikes, diff"ering from other spiked- 
 flowering genera by blooming first at the extremity. They 
 grow best in strong heavy soil. 
 
 Li/eknis. Three species are very desirable in the flower 
 borders. L. chalceddnica has bright scarlet-crowned flowers; 
 the double scarlet variety is splendid ; there is also a double 
 white variety ; L. fiilgens and L. Jlds-jbvis. They ought to 
 be frequently lifted and planted afresh, or they will dwindle 
 to nothing. The best time is when they begin to grow. 
 There is a plant known in our collections as Lychnis fids- 
 cucidi, ragged Robin or French Pink, which is now Agros- 
 temma Jlds-cucidi ; it is a fine and showy border plant, with 
 double red flowers; a double white variety of it has been 
 recently introduced, of the same character, with the additional 
 quality of blooming the whole season. They delight in a 
 light rich soil. 
 4* 
 
46 PERENNIALS, I31arch. 
 
 Lytlirums. A few species flower well, and hav-e small pink 
 blossoms in great profusion, L. aldfum, L. virydfum, L. 
 diffusiim, L. roscum, and L. lanceoldtum. They will grow in 
 any common garden soil if not too much shaded ; and flower 
 from June to September. 
 
 jMimuIun, Monkey-flower. A few species may be culti- 
 vated. They will grow in any soil or situation. M. luteus 
 and M. rivuJdris are the best. M. moschdtus has a very 
 strong musk scent, to many agreeable. The former two have 
 large gaping flowers, of a' golden yellow, and beautifully 
 spotted with purple in the interior; they all grow in moist 
 situations. 
 
 Mondrdas, a fine native genus, and showy. The foliage of 
 several of the species is aromatic, and resembles mint. M. 
 dirlyma has long scarlet ringlet flowers, in headed whorls ; 
 M. halmiana, flowers very long, and a beautiful crimson, 
 with fragrant leaves. 31. Russelliana has red and white 
 flowers ; curious and handsome. 31. punctata has yellow 
 and red flowers ; they grow in any common soil. 
 
 3Iathiola is the generic of the Stock-gilly. None of them 
 will survive severe winters in this latitude ; yet many of 
 them are indispensable in the flower-garden. 31. simpli- 
 cdtdis, Erompton-stock, and its varieties, with 31. incdna, 
 Queen-stock, and its vuiieties, require the protection of a 
 good frame in winter ; and about the end of this month, or 
 beginning of next, plant them in good, light, rich soil to 
 flower, which they will do all summer, if attended to with 
 frequent supplies of water. 31. annua has about forty varie- 
 ties, valuable for flowering the first year from seed, and 
 are all annuals. They ought to be sown on a gentle hot-bed 
 about the first of this month, and carefully picked out so as 
 they may be ready to transplant about the end of April or 
 the first of Ma}'. Plant them in light, rich soil, and they 
 will flower profusely through the season ; if it is very dry, 
 they must be watered to keep them growing. The scarlet, 
 white, and purple varieties are the finest ; but there are 
 many intermediate sorts, all handsome. 31. (jldhra is the 
 "W^all-flower leaved stock, and requires the same treatment 
 as the former two. There are about twenty varieties of this, 
 all various in colour. In planting any of these into the open 
 ground, choose cloudy weather, except they have been in pots; 
 
March.'] PERENNIALS. 47 
 
 in such case, plant at any time in beds, or detached groups, 
 through the borders, keeping each kind separate. 
 
 CEnotheras. The most of them are indigenous, and in 
 Europe they aiFord a continual ornament to the flower-garden 
 from April to November; but in our gardens they are entirely 
 neglected. By rejecting these and many others, our flower- 
 gardens are deprived both of much beauty and interest they 
 might easily possess. The herbaceous sorts delight in light, 
 rich soil. (E. odorata, sweet-scented ; (E. macrocdrpa ; (E. 
 media : (E. latiflbra ; (E. Frazeri ; (E. spcciosa ; (E. mis- 
 souriensis, and (E. pallida ; are all fine, native, herbaceous 
 plants, mostly with large yellow, four-petalled corollas; in 
 bloom from May to September. 
 
 Phlox, another American genus, and one of the most 
 handsome in cultivation. It consists of elegant border flow- 
 ers, valuable for flowering early, and during the whole sea- 
 son, even till frost. While the majority of plants blooming 
 late in the season are generally syngenesious, with yellow 
 flowers, these delight us with their lively colours of purple, 
 red, white, and striped. A collection of them, properly 
 attended to, would of themselves constitute a beautiful fl(jwer- 
 garden. It will be diflicult to state which are the finest ; but 
 the following are select varieties : Antagonist, white ; aiha 
 l-ermosine, white pink tube; Astrea, marbled white and lilac; 
 Comtesse de Chamhord, white carmine eye; Deprcssa, rose; 
 Madam Auhin, lilac and white ; Madam Henderson, change- 
 able white, violet, or striped ; Mrs. Barton, pure white, large 
 flower, fine habit; Niobe, shaded lilac; speciosa, tall crimson; 
 stolon i/era, bluish lilac; snbuldfa, pink dark eye, creeping; 
 The Standard, bright red; Van IlurUtii, striped. In the 
 spring of 1831, an eminent British collector* exclaimed, on 
 seeing a patch of P. suhuldfa in one of the pine barrens of 
 New Jersey, '' The beauty of that alone is worth coming to 
 America to see ; it is so splendid." Most of the species de- 
 light in a rich, light, sandy loam. "When the plants become 
 large, *hey ought to be divided, and planted in fresh grou-jd. 
 
 Primidas, Primrose. To this genus belong the celebrated 
 Cowslip, Oxslip, Primrose, and the esteemed Aurictda. 
 The double varieties of Primrose have originated from P 
 vulgaris. These are such as carry their flowers on separate 
 
 DIrisicf 
 
48 PERENNIALS. [iforrc/t. 
 
 pedicles, rising from the root on a small stem. The double 
 varieties are desirable for their beauty, but require the pro- 
 tection of a frame during winter. They are in colour red, 
 "white, yellow, lilac, purple, and crimson. P. eldtior is the 
 Oxslip, from which all the Polydntlmses have been grown. 
 They are in variety innumerable, and are those whose flowers 
 are in umbels, on a scape or flower-stalk, rising from three 
 to nine inches. The rules for judging of their merits are 
 wholly artificial, agreed on from time to time by florists. 
 The one that is the leading beauty this year would, in a few 
 years, be far in the rear. The principal character is that 
 the corolla is not notched or fringed ; the colours pure and 
 distinct, not running into one another; the tube small; the 
 eye round, and a little prominent. Being surrounded with 
 white, and the ground purple, is a fine character. P. auri- 
 cula. From this the highly esteemed varieties have ori- 
 ginated. The cultivated auricula has many admirers, both 
 for its exquisite beauty and fragrance. For the criterion of 
 a fine flower, see April. There are several other species 
 worthy of a situation, such as P. corfiisoides, P. dentifldra, 
 P. suaveolens, P. decora, with P. scotica and P. farinbsa, 
 both small, neat species. A shady situation agrees best with 
 them; and they require loamy soil, free from any kind of 
 manure, except it be fully decomposed. The leaves of P. 
 veris have been recommended for feeding silk worms. 
 
 Plumbago Larpantea, Lady Larpants, Lead-wort, dark 
 blue, flowering from July till frost ; a very great acquisition 
 to the flower-garden; will require to be covered in winter iu 
 the Eastern and Northern States. 
 
 Potentillas are similar to the strawberry in habit and ap- 
 pearance. P. nepalensis, or formbsa, has rose-coloured 
 flowers; P. atropurpiirea; P. Russellidna, scarlet; P. Hop- 
 woodidna, buff and scarlet; and P. spUndens, yellow, with 
 superb leaves. These are the finest of the genus, and flower 
 from May to September. It will be well to protect them with 
 a few leaves or litter during the severity of winter; they de- 
 light in light soil. 
 
 Sapondria ojicindlis, and S. o. plena, are fine free-flower- 
 ing, dwarf plants; the colour is pink in both double and 
 single varieties. The I'oots run under ground, and care should 
 be taken to keep them within bounds ; they flower from June 
 
March.'] PERENNIALS. 49 
 
 to October. S. coespitbsa is a neat growing species, of a rose 
 'colour. They will grow in any soil. 
 
 Silene. Several of this genus are popular annuals, but the 
 herbaceous species are very indifferent. S. viscdsa and S. 
 viscdsa Jidre-j^Una are frequently cultivated for their beauty; 
 they will grow well if not too much shaded. 
 
 Saxifruga, above one hundred species. Many of them 
 are beautiful plants for rock-work. They are regardless of 
 cold, but will not generally withstand much moisture. A 
 few of them are highly deserving a situation in any garden. 
 S. hirsufum and S. crassijolia are used in some ' countries 
 for tanning. >S^. granulata multiplex has fine, double, white 
 flowers, and is desirable. ;S'. umbrosa, London-pride, makes 
 a beautiful edging for a flower border ; the flowers are small, 
 but, on close examination, its colours are unrivalled. It is 
 sometimes called "none so pretty." S. sarmentbsa is kept 
 in the green-house, but is perfectly hardy, and makes a fine 
 plant in a shaded situation, and will grow where grass and 
 other plants generally die. We have no doubt that it would 
 make a good fancy edging. S. pulchella and S. pyramiddlis 
 require protection ; these are easily cultivated, and flower in 
 spikes from May to July. 
 
 Sjnrceas. A few species are showy plants, and continue 
 flowering from May to September. >S^. ulmai'ia multiplex^ 
 Meadow-sweet, has sweet-scented, white flowers, in long dense 
 spikes. S. Jilipendula miiltiplex, Drop-wort, double white. 
 S. lohdta is a native, and has fine rose-coloured flowers, and 
 blooms in June and July; S. japonica, beautiful dwarf white ; 
 these are the finest of the herbaceous species, and will grow 
 in any common garden soil. 
 
 Statice, Thrift. A genus containing many fine herba- 
 ceous plants ; only a few of them are common in collections. 
 The finest of them are scarce, and said to be " bad to cul- 
 tivate." S. vulgaris, once Armiria vulgaris, is a valuable 
 plant for an edging, and does well in our climate, flowering 
 in great profusion from May to July. When done flower- 
 ing, the stems should be cut off". The foliage is an agreea- 
 ble evergreen; the plant increases rapidly, and in a few 
 years may be planted to a great extent. S. speciosa has red 
 flowers, crowded in spreading panicles. S. tartdrica has 
 also very showy flowers, and is now given to the genus Tax- 
 dnthema. S. latifbUa and ^ maritxma are the finest. T. 
 5 
 
60 PERENNIALS. [J/arcA 
 
 latifblia and T. conspicua deserve attention. They should 
 be lifted every alternate year, and sunk deeper into the soil, 
 because they incline to grow out, and are sometimes during 
 summer killed by the drought. Hence they are said to be 
 " bad to cultivate," 
 
 Vei-07uca, Speed-well. This genus consists of about one 
 hundred and twenty species of herbaceous plants, besides 
 several varieties. The flowers are in long, close spikes, 
 ■white, flesh-coloured, or blue ; they are generally of the latter 
 colour. Above sixty species are equally fine, and, being ge- 
 nerally of the same character, the catalogue at the end of thia 
 work will contain the best selection that we can make. Very 
 few of them are in the collections of the country, although 
 they are very showy, and flower from May to August. They 
 will grow in any soil, but will not flourish where they are 
 much shaded. V. officinalis has been used in Germany and 
 Sweden as a substitute for tea. Some prefer V. chamoedrys 
 for the same purpose. 
 
 Vnlerianas. Several species are showy border plants, with 
 small flowers in large close flattened panicles. V. dioica 
 is remarkable for having the stamens and pistils in separate 
 flowers, situated on different plants ; the flowers are of a 
 blush colour. V. phii, a large-growing species with white 
 flowers, and V. rhhra, with its varieties which bloom all the 
 season, are the finest of the genus. They are now given to 
 Centrdnthus. They are all easy of culture in common garden 
 earth, but preferring moist, shady situations. In flower from 
 May to September. 
 
 Vtola, a genus consisting of upwards of eighty species of 
 low pretty plants, of gi-eat diversity of colour and foliage. 
 Many of them are natives, and well worth a situation in our 
 gardens. They mostly delight in sandy loam, and a little 
 shade. A few of the species grow in moist situations. The 
 most esteemed varieties for fragrance are, V. odordta pur- 
 purea plena, double purple, V. odordta alba p)lena, double 
 white, the double Neapolitan, and the monthly Double p>urple. 
 They flower very early, and make good edgmgs, where they 
 are kept in order ; flowering profusely from April to June, 
 and again in autumn. 
 
 Yiicca, Adam's needle. This is a very showy and orna- 
 raental genus; their character forming a picturesque contrast 
 in the flower-garden ; foliage long, narrow, lanceolate, and 
 
 Didsion of Hortieulture, 
 
March.2 PERENNIALS. 51 
 
 stiff; with white catnpanulate flowers, about two inches in 
 diameter, in conical spikes from two to four feet long, arising 
 from the centre of the plant, containing frequently from two 
 to four hundred florets. They are principally native plants. 
 Y. stricta, Y. superba, Y. aloifbUa, Y. angxisti folia, Y. glo' 
 riosa, Y. recurvifolia, and Y. filamentosa, are all fine species, 
 and will grow in any common soil. When in flower, if pro- 
 tected from the sun by an awning, they will be of considera- 
 ble duration. There are variegated varieties of stricta and 
 aloifbUa, which look very handsome in foliage, but are at 
 present very rare, and it will be a number of years before 
 they are plentiful. There ought, at least, to be one specimen 
 of each in every garden. 
 
 We have given the names and characters of a few her- 
 baceous plants, all, or most of them, easily obtained, many 
 of them extremely handsome, and such as agree best with 
 transplanting at this season of the year; for several others, 
 such as Paonias, or any other strong tuberous or bulbous 
 sorts, see October. Where they are in pots, they can be 
 planted at any time, the weather permitting, provided the 
 ball of earth is not broken-. But where they are only to be 
 removed, the best time is in October or November, or just 
 as vegetation commences in the spring. That herbaceous 
 plants may look to the best advantage, and flower well, they 
 must not be allowed to get into large stools ; but, as soon 
 as they are above one foot in diameter, they should be di- 
 vided. 
 
 Very frequently, those who perform this operation take 
 the spade, and cut a piece ofi" all round, which, to a degree, 
 improves the look of the plant; but this is only half justice. 
 It should be lifted entirely, fresh soil given, or removed a 
 few feet, and planted a little deeper than it was before, as 
 the plant tends apparently to grow out of the soil when al- 
 lowed to stand long. If the weather becomes dry shortly 
 after transplanting, give them a few waterings, until they 
 have taken fresh roots, which will be within two weeks 
 Colour should be diversified through the garder as much as 
 practicable, and the highest-growing sorts planted farthest 
 from the walk, so as all may appear in view. At all times, 
 avoid crowding plants together. 
 
52 PERENNIALS. iMarch 
 
 BULBOUS ROOTS. 
 
 About the m ddle of this month, let the covering of tan, 
 eawdust, or deoiyed leaves be cleared from the beds of such 
 as were directed to be covered in November; afterwards 
 carefully stirring the surface among them with a kind of 
 wooden spatula, or wedge, breaking the surface fine ; then 
 dress all the alleys smooth and neat with the hoe and rake, 
 clearing away every particle of litter. "When the leaves of 
 Tulips are expanding, they frequently become entangled so 
 much that the force of growth breaks the foliage ; if there 
 are any appearances of this at any time, they should be set 
 right with the hand. In early seasons, these roots will be far 
 advanced, and perhaps one night of frost, unexpectedly, 
 might materially injure them. When there is any suspi- 
 cion of cold weather, hoops should be spanned across the 
 beds, so that the necessary mats or canvass could in a few 
 minutes be placed over them, to ward ofi" danger. Protect 
 the finest sorts from heavy drenching rains, and give them 
 small neat rods for support as they grow up. If the rods 
 and tyings are painted green, the effect will be improved. 
 These directions equally apply to Narcissus, Jonquils, Iris, 
 ind all Holland Bulbs. 
 
 CARNATIONS, PINKS, PRIMROSES, ETC., 
 
 Which have been protected by frames through the winter, 
 must have, at all favourable opportunities, plenty of air ad- 
 mitted to them by lifting the sashes, and in fine mild days 
 and nights, the sashes may be taken entirely off. Divest 
 them of all decayed leaves, and stir up the earth on the sur- 
 face of the pots ; those that are intended to be planted in 
 the garden may be set to one side, while those that are to be 
 kept in pots must be more strictly attended to. Of these 
 the Pinks and Carnations should be repotted about the first 
 of the month. Those that have been kept in four inch pots 
 should be put into pots of seven inches, and those that are in 
 five inch pots may be put into eight inch. Give a gentle 
 watering after repotting. Pinks do not require the pots eo 
 large, but the same treatment in every other respect. Where 
 
March.'] AURICULAS, etc. 53 
 
 tli3 extremities of the leaves are decayed, cut them off, with 
 any other decayed leaves; the pots must be well drained with 
 shivers or fine gravel. Give them plenty of air, otherwise 
 they will be weak in growth. 
 
 Primroses and Diisies may be planted out in shady situa- 
 tions : the sun destroys them during summer, if exposed. 
 
 AURICULAS. 
 
 These beautiful and highly interesting plants are, to a 
 great degree, neglected in our collections. It cannot be from 
 want of beauty or fragrance that they have not attracted our 
 attention, for they are exquisite in both. We are rather in- 
 clined to think that those who have them do not give them 
 the treatment they require yearly to perfect their bloom. 
 They should now have the surface earth taken off about half 
 an inch down, and fresh soil added, which will cause them to 
 put on fresh fibres about the upper part of the roots, and 
 greatly increase their growth. The frame in which they are 
 placed should now face the east, as the sun will be too strong 
 for them ; and about the end of the month turn it to the 
 north. The glass of the frame may be white-washed, which 
 will partially shade them from the sun, that being their de- 
 light. Give them water sparingly until they begin to grow, 
 and never water them over the foliage previous to flowering, 
 as water injures that fine mealy-like substance found on many 
 of the sorts, and which so greatly improves their beauty. 
 Defend them, therefore, from rain and high winds. To have 
 them flower strongly, only one flower-stem should be allowed 
 to grow. The first one that shows is generally the best. At 
 all events, leave the strongest, and cut off all the others, or 
 only nip off the flower pips, which answers the same end. 
 Never keep the sash off during the night, in case it rain 
 before morning. 
 
 RANUNCULUS AND ANEMONE. 
 
 The frames of Ranunculus and Anemone must have plentj 
 of air, and give frequent sprinklings of water. The sashes 
 or shutters should be taken entirely off every mild day, and 
 5* 
 
54 ROSES. [March. 
 
 in fine nights leave them exposed to the dew. Stir the earth 
 among them, breaking it fine, and making all neat and clean. 
 They require liberal supplies of water after they begin to 
 grow. 
 
 ROSES. 
 
 This is the most favourable month for planting all kinds 
 of garden roses, which must be done as soon as the weather 
 opens, and the ground is in a proper state. The earlier they 
 are planted the more perfect they will flower. Never delay 
 planting when there is an opportunity; for, if delayed until 
 the leaves are expanded, the bloom will be much weakened, 
 and the probability is there will be no flowers, and the plants 
 meet with a premature death. It has been said, " There is 
 a particular advantage in planting some every ten days, even 
 to the middle of May; for the flowering of them may be re- 
 tarded in this way, and the bloom of these delightful shrubs 
 continue for a much longer period." One moment's reflec- 
 tion will convince us that nature, while in her own element, 
 will not be retarded, suppose there was no danger of instan- 
 taneous death to the plants. The artificial means that might 
 be judiciously adopted, with which we are acquainted, to 
 keep back the blooming of hardy plants, is to lift them as 
 soon in spring as is practicable, put them in boxes of earth, 
 and then place them in the driest part of an ice-house, until 
 the desired time of planting, which may be delayed as long 
 as the required time of flowering. This will be found a true 
 method of retarding the flowering of roses especially, and not 
 going counter to the rules and pi-inciples of nature. There 
 are many beautiful varieties of the garden rose in cultivation, 
 the names of the finest of which we will give in the following 
 catalogue : — 
 
 African black, very dark crimson, compact and very double. 
 
 Belle amabile, fine dark red, large and double. 
 
 Baron de Stael, bright cherry colour, globular, large and 
 
 double. 
 I'elle Hebe, large purplish red, cupped, double and fine. 
 
 rouennaise, a vory superb rose, with red centre and 
 blush edge. 
 
March.'] ROSES. 55 
 
 Belgic or Dutch Provins, red, with very large flowers, cupped 
 
 and extra double. 
 
 Bouquet de Lisle, spotted. 
 
 ^ , , T, • r Fine rose, very large, globu- 
 
 Cabbage Provins, or \ -. j i j * i 
 
 n -J- T i- xv. Til 1- i lar, penduiar, and extremely 
 
 Ce?i<t/biia 01 the trench, J a \S 
 
 Don Solo, shaded and spotted. 
 
 Harrisoni,* bright yellow, cupped, small and semi-double. 
 
 Helen, light piuk, very large, cupped and double. 
 
 Imperial blush, delicate blush, expanded, large and double. 
 
 Isabella, blush pink, very profuse, cupped and double. 
 
 King of Rome, deep red, very large, compact and exquisitely 
 
 double. 
 La Ville de Bruxelles, bright rose. 
 
 Leonore, purplish red, very compact, imbricated, and double. 
 Madam Hardy, pure white, large, globular and exquisitely 
 
 double. 
 
 Plantier, pure white, very profuse. 
 
 Moss rose,"}" delicate rose, globular and perfectly double. 
 
 Comte de Montmorency, pale blush. 
 
 wbite, old white, expanded and double. 
 
 white bath, or Clifton, white moss, fine white, cupped 
 
 and double. 
 crimson or Damask, very bright rose, expanded and 
 
 double, and very mossy. 
 
 ( This is not properly a moss rose, 
 crested, moss or J but has a curiously mossy calyx 
 
 crested Provins, 1 that envelopes the bud — pink, 
 (^ globular, and double. 
 
 Luxemburg, bright red, compact and double. 
 
 panache, frequently striped. 
 
 perpetual red. 
 
 Hermen Kegel, rosy crimson. 
 
 Grenl. Druoat, red. 
 
 * This Rose, -with a "Florist's privilege," has been sold for the 
 yellow siceelhrier. It is also called Hogg's Yellow Rose. 
 
 ■j- It h.as long been questioned whether the Moss Rose was a dis- 
 tinct species, or merely a seminal variety of the Provins Rose. 1 
 perfectly agree with the latter opinion — for in June, 1836, I saw in 
 my nursery a plant of the Moss Rose with a large shoot that had 
 sported back to the Provins Rose, and entirely destitute of moss on 
 either shoots or buds. We have no faith in black and yellow Moss 
 Roses ; &\) we have seen for such have proved false to their character. 
 
56 ROSES. [^March 
 
 Moss, perpetual white, blooming in clusters. 
 
 unique de Provence, white. 
 
 Negritina, pink, very compact, imbricated and double. 
 Nonpareil, rosy red, compact and perfectly double. 
 Oillet parfait, striped like a carnation. 
 Perlet des panaches, striped rose and white. 
 
 — red, see I'ed Provins. 
 
 white, see white Provins. 
 
 Provins cabbage, see Cabbage Provins. 
 Queen of violets, violet colour, compact, cupped and very 
 double. 
 
 Caroline, fine changeable red, cupped and double. 
 
 Sweetbrier, single pink. 
 
 celestial, blush, Jine double flowered. 
 
 Unique or white Provins, pure white, very large globular, 
 
 and double, superb. 
 Unique striped, often is perfectly white, and merely a sport 
 
 from the former. 
 Village Maid, or Belle Rubine, striped. 
 Yellow Persian, the finest yellow rose grown. 
 
 We mention these as fine; but, among several thousand 
 cultivated varieties of the garden rose, there must be many 
 of equal, if not surpassing beauty; of Rosa sjnnosissima, 
 there are about five hundred varieties ; Rosa gallica, two 
 hundred ; R. centifblia, one hundred and fifty ; R. damascene, 
 above one hundred; R. alba, fifty; R. rubiginbsa, thirty; 
 and of various sorts above eleven hundred. In several indi- 
 vidual collections of Europe, there are cultivated above fifteen 
 hundred species, sub-species, and varieties. 
 
 When planted, they are too frequently crowded indiscri- 
 minately among other shrubs, which prevents them having 
 the effect they would have if planted singly or grouped. 
 They vary in size, in different sorts, from one to ten feet. 
 When planted in the latter method, they should be assimi- 
 lated in size of leaves and manner of growth, with the great- 
 est variation of flower ; or, if planted in small patches, each 
 distinct in colour, will have a very picturesque effect. Another 
 desirable and fanciful method is to plant them in figures, 
 with edgings of wire, willow, or any other substitute, iu 
 imitation of basket-work, which is called " baskets of roses ;" 
 the ground enclosed in the basket margin to be made convex, 
 which will present a greater surface to the eye ; the strong 
 
March."] roses. 57 
 
 shoots to be layered, or kept down by pegs in the grojnd, 
 having the points of the shoots only to appear above the doil, 
 which should be covered with moss. With this treatijdent, 
 in a few years the whole surface of the basket will be covered 
 with rose-buds and leaves, of one or various sorts. If two or 
 three of the larger growing sorts are taken, such as Moss or 
 Provins, they may be trained so as to cover a surface of 
 several square yards. 
 
 A modern invention in the cultivation of the rose is to 
 grow them in shape of trees, by budding on strong-grow- 
 ing kinds at different heights from the ground, according to 
 taste, and the purposes intended. If budded on Rosa cd- 
 nina, or Dog Rose, they are much more valuable : it is a last- 
 ing and strong-growing stock ; and the worst of all stocks is 
 the Boursalt rose, and it is too frequently resorted to, being 
 easy of propagation. They will form in a few years hand- 
 some round heads, which will flower more freely than by 
 layers, or trained on their own stalk. They are particularly 
 desirable among low shrubs. When planted, they should be 
 well supported by strong rods, to prevent the wind from de- 
 stroying them. If any of the roots have been bruised in 
 lifting, cut off the bruised part with the knife, and likewise 
 shorten the young shoots ; breaking the earth well about 
 their roots when planting. The rose has been an esteemed 
 shrub among all civilized nations. The flowers are double, 
 semi-double, and single ; the colours are pink, red, purple, 
 white, yellow, and striped, with almost every shade and mix- 
 ture ; the odour universally grateful. This plant is cultivat- 
 ed in every garden, from the humblest cottager to the loftiest 
 prince, and by commercial gardeners in Europe extensively, 
 for distilling rose-water, and making the essential oil of roses. 
 They delight in a rich loamy soil, and require plenty of 
 moisture while in a growing state. Those sorts which throw 
 up numerous suckers should be lifted every three or four 
 years, reduced, and then transplanted. When thus removing 
 them, avoid, as much as possible, exposing their roots; and 
 when newly planted, mulching is of considerable advantage; 
 that is, putting half-rotten stable-manure on the surface of 
 the ground round their roots, which prevents evaporation, 
 and keeps up a constant moisture. If this were done in 
 general to our roses in dry seasons, it would greatly improve 
 their flowering. For Chinese and other roses, see next montht 
 
58 ORNAMENTAL FLOWERING SHRUBS. iMarck 
 
 CLIMBING ROSES. 
 
 This is the best time to prune ever-blooming climbing 
 roses, such as Champney, Noisette, &c. Many of these, 
 when allowed to grow year after year without pruning, be- 
 come unsightly ; they never bear flowers on the old wood, 
 that is, wood of three or four years. Having a tendency to 
 throw out young shoots from the bottom of the stem, the old 
 wood should be cut out, thus encouraging the young wood, 
 which the second year bears the most and finest flowers. 
 In severe winters, the extremities of the shoots are frequent- 
 ly killed, and we have often seen all the wood black or brown, 
 and apparently dead. When that is the case, it is best to 
 leave it until they begin to grow, which will show what is 
 dead or alive, when they can be pruned to better advantage. 
 
 DECIDUOUS ORNAMENTAL FLOWERING SHRUBS. 
 
 The earlier the planting of these shrubs is attended to in 
 this month, the more will their growth and flowering be pro- 
 moted, having all finished before the buds begin to expand. 
 (For kinds recommended, see list, end of the volume.) They 
 should never be planted too thick ; but leave space for them 
 to grow as they respectively require, and according as they 
 are designed for open or close shrubberies, clumps, or thick- 
 ets. Have all in readiness, that it may be done with as 
 much expedition as possible, to prevent their roots from 
 being dried by the sun and wind in time of planting. 
 Make the holes intended for their reception round, capacious, 
 and deep enough to hold their roots, without confining them 
 in the least, and loosen well the bottom, putting new and 
 fresh soil under their roots, breaking and pulverizing it dur- 
 ing the operation, and frequently shaking the plant as you 
 progress in filling up. When done, make all firm with the 
 foot, leaving a circular cavity to hold the water they will 
 require during dry weather. Give rods, and tie with bands 
 all that need that support, before they are left, lest they 
 should be neglected. Cut ofi" any of the bruised roots or 
 irregular growths of the branches. 
 
March.} GRASS-PLATS AND WALKS. 59 
 
 GRASS-PLATS AND WALKS. 
 
 A most wonderful renovator of grass-plats may be found 
 in Guano. Take at the rate of one pound to twelve square 
 yards, mis it with double the quantity of sand, and before 
 rain in April or May, sow the mixture over the grass ; in a 
 few days its effects will be seen. Where grass lawns are 
 poor, and of a pale yellow colour, about four hundred weight 
 to the acre, mixed with sand, plaster, or dry earth, will effec- 
 tually restore them to a luxuriant verdure. 
 
 Rake and sweep off from these all litter, and worm-cast 
 earth, and give an occasional rolling to settle the ground, 
 and render the surface smooth where the scythe is to be used. 
 The grass will likewise grow better by rolling it where the 
 frost has partially thrown it out, and add greatly to its beau- 
 ty. Cut the edgings with an edging-iron or spade, so that 
 the whole will have a finished appearance. If any new turf 
 is required to be laid down, this is a very good time to do it, 
 before vegetation is strong ; as the turf that is now laid will 
 have taken root before the dry season commences. Where 
 a great extent is to be done, sowing might be adopted ; but 
 it will not have the effect of turf under three years, and dur- 
 ing that time must be carefully cut, after the first season, 
 every three weeks, while growing; nor must it be too fre- 
 quentl}^ walked upon. White clover and true perennial rye- 
 grass are the seeds most proper for sowing. The ground 
 must, in the first place, be all equally made up, and levelled 
 with the spade and rake; not "cart-loads of soil laid down 
 and levelled," which would finally become very uneven, and 
 would need to be lifted and relaid next year. The best turf 
 is that of- a close-growing pasture or common, free from all 
 kinds of weeds or strong roots, and the grass short. To cut 
 it expeditiously, be provided with a turfing-iron ; but if that 
 cannot be conveniently had, a spade may do very well. Strain 
 a line tight, cutting the turf lengthwise, at equal distances, 
 from twelve to eighteen inches. Next draw the line across, 
 cutting from one and a half to two feet ; then cut them up 
 with the spade, about one and a half inch thick. In laying, 
 join them close and alternately; when done, beat them firm 
 with a level wooden beater, and roll with a heavy roller. 
 
 Grass-walks, in the last century, were very popular ; but 
 
60 - GRAVEL WALKS. [^Slarch 
 
 time having put them to the test, they are found unfit for 
 walking among or using in any manner, ahnost for one-half 
 of the year ; therefore, not answering the purposes intended. 
 They require great attention to keep them in order ; and if 
 not always neat and clean, they are a disagreeable object in a 
 garden ; but, when they are well dressed, their effect is very 
 enlivening. Where they are desired, prepare the ground as 
 above directed; making the walk a little higher than the 
 adjoining borders, to prevent the earth from being washed on 
 it by the rain. Allowing the walks to be six feet wide, make 
 the centre five inches higher than the sides, or about seven- 
 eighths of an inch to the foot, whatever the breadth may be, 
 which will form a gentle declivity to throw off the rain. 
 When laid, beat and roll it well ; cutting the edge neat and 
 even. Water frequently, if the weather sets in dry. To 
 keep grass-walks or plats in order, they should be mown once 
 every three or four weeks, from May to September, and the 
 grass each time swept clean off. When the grass is allowed 
 to get long before being cut, the roots became tender, and 
 die when exposed to the sun ; at last the grass is all in spots, 
 and in another year requires to be relaid. 
 
 GRAVEL WALKS. 
 
 A practice once existed of turning these into heaps, or 
 ridges, during winter, to destroy weeds, &e. But this has 
 almost been given up as unnecessary, unsightly, inconvenient, 
 and not doing any material service. 
 
 Where the surface of these has become foul, irregular, or 
 mossy, they had better be turned over four or five inches 
 deep, where the gravel will admit of it; but if not, hoe and 
 rake them perfectly clean, give a new coat of gravel, and pick 
 up any stones that you think too large ; then give them a 
 good rolling, applying it frequently after showers of rain. 
 When they are well attended to just now, they will look well 
 all the season ; but if neglected, they take more labour, and 
 are never in such good condition. 
 
 Fancy-edgings of Thyme, Thrift, Lavender, and Violets — 
 (^Daisies may be used if the situation is shaded). The whole 
 of these may be planted by the line with the dibber except 
 Thyme, which lay as directed for Box, See this month, 
 
March.'] or grafting. 61 
 
 under that head. Any time in this or beginning of next 
 mouth will answer to make edgings of these ; and if dry 
 weather occurs before they begin to grow after planting, they 
 must have frequent waterings until they have taken fresh 
 root. Thyme requires to be dressed twice during the season, 
 to keep it in order. 
 
 OP GRAFTING. 
 
 There are four methods of grafting. It can be applied to 
 all kinds of shrubbery, choosing a common species from the 
 same genus that the sort belongs to, which is intended to be 
 multiplied. The one we will describe is whip or tongue 
 grafting, which is the preferable and most expeditious plan 
 with all deciduous shrubs or trees. The stock upon which 
 it is performed must be slender, from two-thirds of an inch tc 
 any diameter suitable to the thickness of the graft. Having 
 headed the stock at a clear, smooth part, slope it on one side 
 with a sharp knife at a very acute angle, make a slit on the 
 lower side of the slope about an inch downward to receive 
 the tongue or wedge of the graft or scion. Secondly, having 
 the prepared scions cut into lengths of three, four or five 
 eyes, take one which matches the stock in size, and slope 
 the bottom of it so as to fit the stock, that the rinds of both 
 may correspond exactly, especially on one side and at bottom ; 
 make also a slit upward in the graft, like that in the slope of 
 the stock, so that the one may be inserted in the other as 
 evenly and completely as possible. Let the graft be carefully 
 held in its due position, while a bandage is applied. Take 
 strands of Russian mat, and bind them in a neat manner 
 several times round the stock and graft. Lastly, cover the 
 joint with well-worked clay; coat from half an inch below 
 the bottom of the graft to an inch above the top of the stock, 
 and to the thickness of half an inch all round ; finish it in 
 an oblong globular form, taking care to work it close, that 
 no air may penetrate. If the clay is covered with moss, it 
 will partially prevent it from cracking. 
 
 The grafts will have taken when they begin to grow freely : 
 
 then the clay may be broken off, and the bandage loosened, 
 
 and put on again, but not so tight as formerly; give the 
 
 grafts a stake for support, tying them thereto to prevent 
 
 6 
 
62 ANNUALS. lAjpril 
 
 accidents from the wind. Allow no shoots to arise from the 
 stock. 
 
 APRIL. 
 
 The ambition of every amateur and gardener, during this 
 month, is to be at the head of every department, and over 
 every spot. The operator's activity, in this month, almost 
 regulates the whole season. Every weed ought to be cut 
 down as soon as it appears, and the proverbial saying will be 
 realized, " A garden that is well kept is easily kept ;" one 
 hour of laborious industry now will save two in the heat of 
 summer. A wet day need cause no loss of time : prepare 
 rods, bands, and tallies, to be in readiness when required. 
 Many, in the height of bustle, never finish properly as they 
 proceed, which is the worst of practices. Every operation 
 ought to be completely and properly finished before another 
 is taken in hand, which will ultimately prove the quickest 
 and best method to work upon. 
 
 Let digging, hoeing, and raking be done as expeditiously 
 as strength will allow, that the time may be devoted, for a 
 few weeks, to the beautifying of the garden and parterre, by 
 sowing and planting. 
 
 ANNUALS. 
 
 Those that are tender and were sown last month, according 
 to directions, will be ready to prick out into another glass 
 frame. Keep them a few inches apart, to let the air circu- 
 late. Give them frequent sprinklings with water, and shade 
 them with a mat for a few days, until they have taken fresh 
 root ; then give them plenty of air, and by the first of next 
 month, expose them, night and day, to harden the plants for 
 the open ground. A few of the annual seeds, of every de- 
 scription, and of every country and climate, may be sown any 
 time after the middle of the month. If the season prove 
 favourable, they will do well ; but reserving a part to sow 
 about the 15th of May, will guard against every extreme. 
 
April.'] HYBRID CHINESE ROSES. 63 
 
 BIENNIALS AND PERENNIALS. 
 
 Any biennials that are intended to be removed, and not 
 done last month, must not be delayed longer. The roots of 
 many of them will be very strong, and, if possible, a cloudy 
 day should be chosen for the operation. Give one or two 
 copious watei'ings, and, if necessary, shade them from the 
 sun till they begin to grow. 
 
 Perennials. — For a limited description of several genera 
 and species, see last month. Where dividing the root or 
 replanting is required, let it be done forthwith. If the wea- 
 ther is dry, they must be carefully watered and shaded for a 
 few days. 
 
 ROSES. 
 
 The subject of garden roses was touched upon last month, 
 as far as our limits would admit. We will now give short 
 descriptions of the other varieties of Roses that are of more 
 delicate character — and, for distinction and perspicuity, we 
 will give them under the various divisions to which they 
 belong. 
 
 HYBRID CHINESE ROSES. 
 
 All the varieties of this fine division of Roses owe their 
 origin to the Chinese tea-scented. Noisette, and Bourbon 
 Roses, impregnated with the French Provins, and other 
 garden Roses. The seeds of such fertilized flowers produce 
 hybrid Cbinese Roses. These have, in mauy instances, re- 
 sulted from accident; but latterly, from the regular impreg- 
 nating profess. The superb varieties of this fine division 
 give a combination of all that is grand and beautiful in roses. 
 Their flowers are of the most elegant forms and richest 
 colours ; their foliage of great luxuriance, and their branches 
 flixible and vigorous. Many of them are of first-rate im- 
 portance for covering pillars and trellises, their shoots fre- 
 quently growing from six to ten feet in one season ; these 
 i«hoots may be thinned out year after year, but rievfir short- 
 
6t HYBRID CHINESE ROSES. [Jpn7. 
 
 ened. They require very rich soil, and do best on their 
 own bottom, except elcgans, Bizarre de la Chines Wdling- 
 ton, and other dwarf-growing sorts, which do well as stand- 
 ards. If they only possessed the property of ever hloomivg, 
 they would be decidedly the finest division of the tribe ; 
 however, their general beauty and richness of colour greatly 
 make up for the deficiency. Many of them are also delight- 
 fully fragrant. The following are select sorts : — 
 
 Belle Marie, bright pink, a fine dwarf. 
 
 parabere, shaded crimson, a strong grower. 
 
 Theresa, very dark crimson. 
 
 Blanchefleur, white, a free grower. 
 
 Bon Ginneure, bright red, very early. 
 
 Bouquet blanc, white expanded, large and very double. 
 
 Brennus or Brutus, of some French collections, vivid red or 
 nearly scarlet, and, as a pillar rose, is one of the 
 finest objects I have ever witnessed ; flowers extremely 
 large, and of the most exquisite form, cupped, and 
 perfectly double. 
 
 Catel, dark crimson, globular shape and very double. 
 
 Coup de Hebe, delicate pink. 
 
 Dandigne, violet purple. 
 
 Duke of Devonshire, rosy lilac, faintly striped with white, 
 imbricated and perfect in its shape 
 
 Egerie, brilliant red, a free grower. 
 
 Fabvier, very large, changeable pink and red. 
 
 Fulgens or Malton, unique in brilliancy, approaching bright 
 scarlet, with large globular flowers, and of vigorous 
 growth, and foliage finely tinted with red. 
 
 General Lamarque, very dark crimson, of luxuriant growth, 
 and very distinct. 
 
 George the Fourth (Rivers'), most beautiful crimson, very 
 large and exquisitely double, and of globular form. 
 If in good rich soil, the shoots will grow eight feet 
 in one season ; foliage of a shining dark reddish 
 green, and is unquestionably one of the finest of the 
 family. 
 
 Georgiana, deep pink, cupped, large and finely double. 
 
 Grillony, slaty rose colour. 
 
 L'ingenue, shaded violet crimson. 
 
April.^ HYBRID ROSES. 65 
 
 Lady Stuart, flesh colour, the form of the flowers before ex- 
 pansion is perfectly spherical, and of exceeding beauty. 
 
 Louis Philippe, very splendid dark rose, a strong grower, 
 superb. 
 
 Parny or La tourferelle, lilac or dove colour, cupped and 
 very double, requires to grow to a large bush before 
 its beauty of form and profusion of bloom can be 
 seen. 
 
 IMncess, delicate rose, globular and perfectly double, and 
 makes an excellent standard of itself, not being very 
 subject to make shoots from the root. 
 
 Prolific, dark rosy crimson, changing to violet, very perfect 
 form, a dioarf. 
 
 Triomphe de Laffay, rosy white, large and very beautiful. 
 
 Victor Hugo, changeable rosy violet. 
 
 Violet de Belgique, dark violet crimson, very profuse and 
 perfect. 
 
 Watts' Celestial, Celestial WelN Cabbage China, Flora, per- 
 fecta, &c. (it is known under all these names), delicate 
 rose, petals finely cupped, flower rather flat, is a free 
 grower, and very profuse of bloom. 
 
 Wellington (Lee's), rich purple crimson, flower beautifully 
 formed ; globular and very double. The first view of 
 it is similar to Bizarre de la Chine; but it is very 
 distinct in growth, and the colour fades much sooner 
 than in the latter rose, and, indeed, is never so bright. 
 
 "William the Fourth, blush red, extremely large, very perfect 
 form, and is unquestionably a hybrid from the Cab- 
 bage Provins, and makes an excellent standard or tea 
 rose. 
 
 HYBRID ROSES THAT ARE STRIPED, SPOTTED, OR 
 MARBLED. 
 
 Sandeur, Sandeur PanacJiee, of the French, and King of 
 Hybrids of the English, bright rose colour, beautifully 
 spotted and striped with white, very double, and of 
 perfect form — luxuriant in growth, and the shoots 
 must never be shortened — we have seen it several 
 years in perfecl bloom. 
 6* 
 
66 PERPETUAL ROSES. [April 
 
 PERPETUAL ROSES. 
 
 This once admired division of the Rose is now nearly 
 superseded by the Hybrid Perpetual, a tribe that originated 
 between it and the Bourbon. It was not known in Europe 
 till about 1817, except in the red and white four seasons, 
 roses, which have, no doubt, contributed a large portion of 
 their '' sweet assistance ;" for in many of them the powerful 
 and agreeable fragrance of these two old roses is very evident. 
 Unfortunately, there are two-thirds of these roses received 
 both from France' and England under the head of Per- 
 petuals, which only bloom once in our arid and hot climate; 
 of course, they will not make a second or third blooming, ' 
 unless they, at the same time, grow freely and make strong 
 shoots ; consequently, they require very rich and deep soil, 
 strongly manured, and repeated manurings given every year; 
 also, very frequent waterings during the summer season, with 
 liquid manure. Without such nourishment, the best of per- 
 petual roses will only flower but once a year. It is a pecu- 
 liar feature in this tribe of roses, that they are nearly all 
 reluctant in rooting from layers ; therefore, it will be difficult 
 to procure them on their own bottoms. However, they grow 
 admirably, grafted on, or budded into, any of our strong- 
 growing native roses; although the French Eglantine and 
 Marietta are most generally preferred. When grown in a 
 luxuriant and well-cultivated state, they require twice pruning. 
 First, in November, when the beds are dressed, cut off every 
 shoot of the preceding summer's growth about two-thirds, and 
 if they are crowded, displace some of them entirely. If 
 this autumnal pruning be properly attended to, they will, 
 early in the following June, throw out a great number of 
 luxuriant shoots, each having one or more flowers. When a 
 little sacrifice must be made to have a fine autumnal bloom, 
 therefore, leave only about half the number of shoots to bring 
 forth flowers, the remainder shorten to less than half theii 
 lengths. Each shortened branch will soon put forth buds, 
 and in July and August the plants will again be covered 
 with flowers. Our fine-growing fall months will greatly 
 assist the plants without farther aid in bringing forth their 
 third blooming, which will be in September and October ; 
 and Rose du Roi will even continue in mild seasons to bloom 
 
Aj)ril.'\ HYBBID PERPETUAL ROSES. 67 
 
 till November. It is necessary, at all times, as soon as tba 
 flower begins to fade, to cut it off, which greatly assists the 
 vigour of the plants. Although in colour many of them ap- 
 proximate each other, yet the following sorts will prove suffi- 
 ciently distinct : — 
 
 Antinous, light crimson, beautifully formed, and perfectly 
 
 double. 
 D' Angers, delicate rose, large size, compact and double. 
 Du E.oi, or Lee's crimson perpetual, bright red, cupped shape, 
 
 perfectly double, and exquisitely scented : in warm 
 
 dry weather, this rose is apt to become much lighter 
 
 in colour. 
 Grande et Belle, or Monstreuse rose, very large, cupped and 
 
 perfectly double. 
 Jean Hachette (of the English), delicate pink, extremely 
 
 large, cupped, and extra double. 
 Magadore, very dark crimson, perfect form. 
 Oliver de Serres, dark rose with a blush edge, very distinct. 
 Palmyra, rosy pink. 
 Queen of Perpetuals, or Palotte picotee, pale blush, cupped 
 
 and perfectly double. 
 Scotch Perpetual, pale blush, a profuse and constant bloomer. 
 Stanwell, perpetual blush, expanded and very double ; it has 
 
 much the habit of a Scotch Rose: when budded, it is 
 
 a constant and free bloomer. 
 Four seasons, pale rose, cupped and double. 
 White four seasons, nearly white, expanded and double; but 
 
 rarely blooms oftener than once in the season. 
 Perpetual white moss, white, blooms in large clusters, and 
 
 when in bud is very handsome; but the flower of 
 
 itself is miserably indifferent, and, moreover, it is not 
 
 a true perpetual. It is one of those floricultural 
 
 misnomers expressing what the public would wish it 
 
 to be, and not what it actually is. 
 
 HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSES. 
 
 It is but, comparatively, yesterday since this trifle was 
 brought into existence; it is now the leading family of hardy 
 lioses, and will continue to be for ages to come. We may 
 
68 GEAPTINa ROSES. lApril. 
 
 expect it in every variety of colour, from pure while to velvet 
 crimson, and with a mixture of spotted, striped, and, may be, 
 a touch of yellow. What we have said on the culture of 
 Perpetual Roses will equally apply here, this tribe having 
 the advantage of rapidity of growth — more diversity of colour 
 — a greater profusion of bloom, and is propagated with con- 
 siderable facility by layers, or cuttings, or the common process 
 of budding aud grafting. The following sorts are all perfectly 
 distinct : — 
 
 Aubernon, dark rosy red, cupped and very double. 
 Augusti Mie, bright rose. 
 
 Baron Prevost, dark rose, very large, strong growing. 
 Baron Halley, crimson purple. 
 Blanche, pure white, cupped, very profuse. 
 Caroline de Sansal, blush, very large. 
 Comtesse Duchatel, dark rosy red, large and perfect. 
 Duchess de Nemours, pale rose colour, very double. 
 Duchess of Praslin, pale blush, very profuse. 
 Due d'Aumale, rosy crimson, perfect form. 
 Edward Jesse, pale red, a very constant bloomer. 
 Griant of the Battle, scarlet crimson. 
 General Taylor, bright crimson scarlet, fine. 
 Lane, bright carmine, fine form, and a constant bloomer. 
 La Reine, rosy lilac, very large. 
 Lion of Combates, crimson. 
 Marquis Boccella, pale pink, a profuse bloomer. 
 Prince Albert, rich crimson, large and very double. 
 Queen Victoria, pale blush. 
 Heine de Fleurs, pale rose. 
 
 Youlande d'Arragon, pale rose, large and very constant in 
 bloom ; one of the best light-coloured sorts. 
 
 There are a hundred other sorts could be added to the above, 
 without decidedly varying the colour. 
 
 GRAFTING ROSES. 
 
 The operation of grafting, from the pithy nature of the 
 stems of the rose, is more troublesome, and seldom succeeds 
 BO well as budding, though when the buds inserted the pre- 
 
April.'] l'isle de bourbon roses. 69 
 
 vious summer fail, it is worth while to have recourse to graft- 
 ing, which may succeed, and thus make up for the failure. 
 The cleft-grafting is much practised, especially on the conti- 
 nent of Europe, and is the most successful method. It is 
 necessary that the scion (or young shoot that is intended to 
 be multiplied) should be cut from the bush before vegetation 
 commences, and placed in some shaded situation till the time 
 of operation, which will be after the buds begin to swell on 
 the stock, when the head of the stock may be cut horizon- 
 tally to its desired height, and a slit made in its crown down- 
 ward one and a half or two inches. The scion should be cut 
 into lengths of two and a half or three inches, and then, 
 cutting its lower end into a wedge-like shape, inserting it 
 into the slit of the stock, keeping the back of the stock and 
 scion in contact, which must be held firmly and bound with 
 ligatures of soft bast-mat or worsted, and, in order to render 
 it water-proof, cover it with a paste made of pitch and bees- 
 wax, or clay mixed with old slaked lime; if the latter is 
 used, it will sometimes crack, which must be carefully filled 
 up. In August or September, the ligatures may be cut on 
 one side, allowing the clay or wax to be displaced with the 
 natural growth of the plant. Should the graft fail, you have 
 still the resource of budding in August on the young shoots 
 that will grow from the stock. It must be observed that 
 grafting leaves a worse wound to heal over than budding, 
 unless the stock and scion be nearly of the same size. Every 
 bud which appears below the graft should be carefully rub- 
 bed ofi", except one or two nearest the crown, to encourage 
 the sap upwards to the grafts ; and as soon as the latter begin 
 to throw out leaves, the shoots from the stock should be 
 shortened, and in one or two weeks more entirely taken ofi", 
 if the scion has fairly grown. For whip-grafting, see page 61. 
 
 l'isle de bourbon roses. 
 
 This group of Roses is one of the finest in the whole 
 family of the " Queen of Flowers." They arc generally per- 
 fectly hardy, of luxuriant growth, and will grow almost in 
 any soil. They are profuse in blooming from June to Oc- 
 tober, and many of them delightful in fragrance. They are 
 flowering ornaments of the garden, either as standards, 
 
70 l'isle de bourbon roses. lApril 
 
 climbers, or bushes ; their foliage is large, exuberant and 
 agreeable, and when the plants are established and well nur- 
 tured, they produce their flowers in immense clusters. There 
 are now many varieties; the talent and ingenuity of the 
 French in rose culture and reproduction will soon give the 
 floral world a farther supply of some fine varieties, and many 
 Jiner names. I can cheerfully recommend the following sorts, 
 which require pruning similar to hybrid Roses : — 
 
 Acidalie, rose white, large and perfect. 
 
 Anne Beluze, waxy blush, very perfect in form. 
 
 Appoline, rosy pink. 
 
 Bouquet de Flore, bright rose, large flower, and a profuse 
 
 bloomer. 
 Cesarine Souchet, shaded carmine. 
 Desgaches, pale waxy rose, flat form, very distinct. 
 Due de Chartres, large, rosy pink. 
 Dupetit Thouars, bright crimson. 
 Desfosses, waxy pink, very double. 
 Enfant d'Ajaccio, very bright scarlet; makes an excellent 
 
 pillar rose. 
 Henry Clay (Boll), carmine, very large. 
 HermoBa, bright rose, most perfect cupped form, a profuse 
 
 bloomer, and highly esteemed. During the summer 
 
 months it loses much of its colour; but in autumn 
 
 it is truly charming. 
 Julia do Fontenelle, crimson. 
 Leveson Gower, dark rosy red, large cupped, flower profuse 
 
 and distinct. 
 Madam Angelina, creamy waxy white, cupped flower. 
 
 Nerard, waxy pink, expanded and very double. 
 
 Neuman, or Monthly cabbage, bright rose, very large 
 
 and fragrant. 
 Desprez, dark rose, globular, and perfectly double, 
 
 blooms in large clusters, and approaches more the 
 
 Noisette tribe than any 'iter of the Bourbon Roses. 
 Marianne, rosy red. 
 Paul Joseph, brilliant crimson, very double and perfect, 
 
 though not so large a flower as many others. 
 Prince de Joinville, crimson purple. 
 Queen of the Bourbons, beautiful waxy blush, perfect in form 
 
 profuse of flower. 
 
April.'} ROSA INDICA. 71 
 
 Souvenir de la Malmaison, pale blush, very large, the Prince 
 
 of Bourbons. 
 Triomph de la Duchere, rosy blush^ a rapid grower, and 
 
 makes an excellent pillar plant. 
 Vicomte de Cussy, rosy crimson. 
 
 There might be several others added to the above, though 
 we consider these the best and most distinct in colour and 
 character. 
 
 ROSA INDICA OR (BENGAL OP THE FRENCH) CHINESE EVER' 
 BLOOMING ROSES. 
 
 Perhaps no Rose has been so universally distributed and 
 industriously cultivated as Rosa indica (common Chinese or 
 daily Rose), and Rosa Semperflorens (crimson or sanguinea 
 Rose). It has been a favourite from the cottage to the man- 
 sion, and is truly a floral pion(3er. They will almost with- 
 stand every vicissitude of treatment; but will not well survive 
 the winters in the open air, north of this latitude, and even 
 here they require some simple protection with straw, mats, 
 litter, or other dry material during winter. 
 
 They require a very rich, loamy soil, well pulverized, and 
 from fifteen to twenty inches in depth. 
 
 The best season of the year for pruning them is about the 
 first of this month. In doing so, it is not advisable to 
 shorten any of the young shoots, except in cutting ofi" the 
 injured parts, that being the wood most productive of bloom ; 
 but where there is old stinted wood, it should be cut out as 
 close to the surface of the ground as the other parts of the 
 bush will permit, with any other of the oldest wood that is 
 too crowded. Dig every season in among their roots a good 
 supply of well-decomposed manure, and stir and hoe them 
 frequently during the summer. The following are very de- 
 sirable : — 
 
 Abbe Mioland, cupped, dark rosy crimson. 
 
 Agrippina, or Cramoisi Superieur, brilliant crimson, cup form, 
 
 large and finely double. 
 Bengal triumphant, La Sujperhe, GVande et Belle. This, 
 
 like many fine roses, has its several names, but the 
 
72 ROSA INDICA. [April. 
 
 former is the name under which I first knew it. It 
 is a strong grower, with very large well-formed flowers 
 of a rich purple crimson, which are extremely double, 
 and always open well. 
 
 Beau carmine, dark crimson, of a very distinct habit and 
 colour, is an excellent bloomer and finely formed. 
 
 Belle Isidore is also a changeable rose ', it will open a light 
 pink colour, and before evening will be a rich crimson ; 
 is a regular and very double large rose, of strong 
 growth and easy culture, and when known will be 
 generally cultivated. 
 
 Cels, or Bengal Cels, flesh colour, of the most perfect form, 
 extremely double and always opens perfect ; is a very 
 profuse bloomer, and of a strong growing habit ; it ha3 
 much the appearance of a superb tea rose. 
 
 Comble de Gloire, rich reddish crimson, a free bloomer, and 
 possesses considerable fragrance. 
 
 Gros Charles, shaded rose, extremely large and fine 
 
 Hortensia, flesh colour, very double, and an excellent rose. 
 
 Indica, or common daily, dark blush or rose colour — it is the. 
 prototype of the family, and is a free-growing and 
 profuse blooming plant, and can withstand every va- 
 riety of treatment. The flower is about three inches 
 in diameter, and in our descriptions, where the word 
 larcje is used, it signifies that the flower is larger than 
 the present variety, and very large means still larger, 
 say four inches ; extremely large, between four and 
 five inches. We have even seen roses in favourable 
 soils and cloudy weather six inches in diameter, and 
 would not be alarmed to see a hybrid Rose twenty- 
 one inches in circumference. 
 
 - alba, wliite daily or sarmeteuse of some, pure white, 
 
 perfectly double, free-growing, and profuse in flower- 
 ing; it is much more tender than the former, but 
 does tolerably well when protected during winter. 
 In the Southern States, it is a great and growing fa- 
 vourite. Thousands of this rose have been grown and 
 sold in Philadelphia within these five years. 
 
 ■ minor var, Lawrencia fiore pleno, delicate rose, a per- 
 fect rose in perfect miniature. 
 
 Jacksonia,* hundred Teaved daily, or crimson daily, bright 
 
 *In compliment to the late President Jackson. 
 
April.] ROSA ODORATA OR TEA ROSE. 73 
 
 red, large and most perfectly double, of luxuriant 
 
 growth, and more prickly (spines) than any other 
 
 rose of the sort we have seen. 
 Jacques Plantier, shaded crimson, expanded. 
 L'Etna, bright light crimson, very double, globular, and very 
 
 distinct, is of a strong-growing habit. 
 Lady Warrender, pure white, large cup form, very double, 
 
 and a great bloomer. 
 La Caemens, rosy shaded crimson, very perfect form. 
 Louis Philippe, dark crimson, very compact, globular, and 
 
 extremely double. 
 Madam Breon, large bright rose. 
 
 Hersant, bright rose, very large, showy and double. 
 
 Marjolin, large, dark crimson, a very strong grower — -Jine. 
 Mrs. Bosanquet, beautiful creamy blush, very large, perfectly 
 
 formed — quite distiiict. 
 Prince Eugene, very bright red, perfectly double cup form, 
 
 and a profuse bloomer. 
 Roi de Cramoisis or Eugene Beaubarnais, bright crimson, fine 
 
 cup form — -fragrant. 
 Rubens, dark rosy violet. 
 Vesuvius, very dark crimson, perfectly double, and quite 
 
 sweet-scented. 
 Queen of Lombardy, Heine de Lombardie, brilliant cherry 
 
 red, cupped, perfectly double, a strong grower, and 
 
 will be a great favourite — superb. 
 Semperflorens, Crimson Chinese or Sanguinea, the type of 
 
 all the scarlet and crimson varieties of this division ; 
 
 it is perfectly double, of a rich crimson colour, and 
 
 is everywhere cultivated, and will not be easily dis- 
 placed from the window of the cottage, or the veranda 
 
 of the palace. 
 Virginal, pale waxy blush, very distinct. 
 
 ROSA ODORATA OR TEA ROSE. 
 
 The original Rosa odorata or tea rose has been and will be 
 a lasting favourite. It is supposed to have been imported 
 from China so late as 1810, and is the leading parent of all 
 the fine varieties we now possess. As this very popular and 
 interesting group of Roses require more care in their culture 
 7 
 
74 ROSA ODORATA OR TEA ROSE. \_April 
 
 than any yet described, I will endeavour to give the most ex- 
 plicit directions I am able, so as to insure, at least, a great 
 chance of success. They delight to grow m a rich soil with 
 a dry bottom, and in rather an elevated situation, and a 
 southern aspect. Select a spot of the dimensions requisite 
 for a quantity of plants to be planted, and dig therefrom soil 
 to the depth of at least eighteen inches ; six inches of the 
 bottom may be filled with pieces of bricks, stone, or lime — 
 rubbish of any sort ; on this, place a layer of compost (at 
 least fifteen inches thick, to allow for its settling), half turf, 
 or good garden mould, and half well-rotted manure, with 
 about an eighth of sand, all completely mixed together. A 
 few weeks after the bed is thus prepared — say about the first 
 of May — the roses may be planted about two feet apart. In 
 this latitude, during the severity of winter, they should be 
 protected by a temporary frame : if covered with glass, so 
 much the better; but boards will serve where glass frames 
 are not at hand. With this treatment, they will never receive 
 the least injury from our severest winters, and they will bloom 
 in the greatest perfection the whol* season. The only prun- 
 ing they require is merely to remove any old shoots to give 
 room for those of younger growth, and to occasionally shorten 
 any of extra length. However, where there are only solitary 
 plants, they will do very well covered with branches of cedar, 
 or a box or barrel perforated in several places to allow the 
 moisture to evaporate. Those that are grafted or budded 
 will not generally stand the winters of our Eastern or Mid- 
 dle States, and should be lifted and put in a back shed, or 
 tied close to the ground and covered with earth. About the 
 first of the month, they can be raised up and pruned of any 
 dead or superfluous wood, when they will bloom nearly as 
 perfect as those that have received finer treatment. In the 
 Southern States they enjoy the great luxury of this rose in 
 its utmost perfection ; there they grow in " wild luxuriance," 
 displaying their varied beauties, and perfuming the air with 
 their delightful fragrance. Every flower-garden in mild lat- 
 itudes should have a full and perfect collection of such '' pleas- 
 ing flowers." Among the many distinct varieties knojirn to 
 be worth culture, are 
 
 Adam, very large, bright pink, cupped form. 
 Apricote, pale apricot colour. 
 
April.'] ROSA ODORATA OR TEA ROSE. 75 
 
 Antherose, pale pinkish white, large and compact. 
 
 Barbot, deep pink inclining to creamy blush, very large. 
 
 Bougere, rosy lilac, extremely large, a strong grower, cup- 
 shaped. 
 
 Belle Marguerite, pale rose, changing to dark pink in the 
 centre, large and extremely double. 
 
 Caroline, bright rosy pink, very large, beautifully formed — 
 pendulous and highly esteemed. 
 
 Clara Sylvain, pure white, most perfectly double, a strong 
 grower, and abundant in bloom, very sweet and highly 
 esteemed. 
 
 Devoniensis or magnolia rose, yellowish white with pink cen- 
 tre, very large, always perfect, finely cupped — delight- 
 fully fragrant. If I were confined to cultivate only 
 twelve roses, this magnificent variety would be one of 
 the number. 
 
 Elisa Sauvage, Canary yellow, fading to creamy white, very 
 large and double. 
 
 Etienie, pure white, cupped form. 
 
 Elvira, creamy blush, tinted with rose. 
 
 Fragoletta, large, rosy blush shaded with pink. 
 
 Flavescens, lutea or yellow tea, pale straw colour, cupped pe- 
 tals, very large, and though only semi-double, has not 
 a rival of its colour ; it was introduced into England 
 from China by Mr. Parkes, in 1824; is a strong 
 grower, but more tender than any other tea rose of its 
 habit. 
 
 Floralie, beautiful blush, bloomy in clusters, very fragrant, 
 and as yet quite rare. 
 
 Goubault, rosy blush with yellow centre, very large. 
 
 Hippolyte, yellowish white, large and double, a strong grower 
 and profuse bloomer. 
 
 Hymenee, white, with cream centre, globular, large, and very 
 double. 
 
 Julia Mansais, yellowish white. 
 
 La Sylphide, rosy bufi" changing to creamy white, very per- 
 fect, and always beautiful. 
 
 Lyonnais, very large, pale pink inclining to deep blush. 
 
 Madame Desprez, or Bengal Madame Desprez, pure white, 
 cupped, large and finely double ; is a beautiful rose, 
 and is rarely excelled in delicacy of fragrance. 
 
 Mansais, bufi^, very large, finely double, and highly fragrant 
 
76 NOISETTE ROSES. lAjpril. 
 
 Marechal Bugeaud, bright waxy rose. 
 
 Melville, flesh colour, a strong grower. 
 
 Moire, rose and blush, beautifully cup-formed, very perfect, 
 and proves to be a fine grower. 
 
 Nephitos, pure white, very large, quite distinct. 
 
 Odorata, or common tea rose, fine blush, very large cupped 
 petals, delightfully scented, and everywhere admired, 
 and is the foundation of this sweet-scented family. 
 
 Princess Marie, flesh colour, a most superb rose of first-rate 
 merit, perfectly double, and finely scented ; when well 
 grown, will have flowers about five inches in diameter. 
 
 Safrano, when the bud first opens it is of a fine safi"ron colour, 
 very pretty. 
 
 Strombio, creamy white, perfectly double, large and globular. 
 
 Triomphe du Luxembourg, yellow flesh or copper colour, ex- 
 tremely large and perfectly double; is a rampant 
 grower, has a most splendid bud. 
 
 Victorie modesta, blush, cupped, very large and double. 
 
 NOISETTE ROSES. 
 
 It is a remarkable fact, that the original of this famous 
 group of roses originated in Charleston, South Carolina, 
 with Mr. Noisette, about 1815, who sent it to his brother, 
 the well-known nurseryman, at Paris (France). It was sup- 
 posed to be produced between the xvhite music, cluster, and 
 the common China rose, and created a very great excitement 
 among the Parisian florists and amateurs ; but, since its in- 
 troduction to France, thousands of seedlings have been raised 
 from it, and so many of these are evidently hybrids, of the 
 tea-scented and other roses, that some of the roses, called 
 " Noisettes," have almost lost every character of the division. 
 They are generally hardy plants, requiring rich soil and a 
 routine of treatment similar to the ** Isle de Bourbon Roses." 
 They will amply repay for extra attention to their culture. 
 The great profusion and perpetual succession of flowers from 
 June till November, of immense clusters, frequently from 
 fifty to one hundred in each, make them truly ornamental 
 objects, and are well calculated for covering fences, pillars, 
 or trellis work. Although they are hardy, they will be bene- 
 fited by i light covering of mats or litter : south of this, 
 
April.'] NOISETTE ROSES. 77 
 
 nothing of the kind is required. It must he kept in mind 
 that pillar- roses can scarcely have too much manure when 
 planting, and they also require a regular annual dressing of 
 some enriching material. We consider the annexed list in- 
 dispensable to a flower-garden. The flower of a Noisette 
 Rose varies from one to four inches in diameter in the follow- 
 ing descriptions ; we take two inches as our standard : — 
 
 Alba, white, a beautiful dwarf with small flowers ; but in the 
 greatest profusion, and the whole bush is frequently 
 like one bouquet. 
 
 Aim6e Vibert, unique or Rosa nevia, showy white, very com- 
 pact and perfectly double, and, if well treated, is one 
 of the finest white dwarf Noisette Roses, and is a pro 
 fuse autumnal bloomer. 
 
 Augusta. This famed $5.00 Rose appears to me to be our 
 old Solfatare, or a reproduction of it. 
 
 Bologne, dark crimson, compact form, dwarf habit. 
 
 Bengal Lee, Noisette Lee, Blush peiyetual China, coelestis, 
 grandifiora, monstrosa, and Triomphe des Noisettes, 
 are all one and the same rose, blush or creamy white, 
 very double, of strong growth, and flowers in large 
 clusters; it is a good old rose, and fortunate in new 
 names. 
 
 Couque de Venus, creamy white, with darker centre, very 
 compact and double; blooms in large clusters, and is 
 delightfully scented, a regular good article. 
 
 Champneyana or Champney's pink cluster, light pink, a ram- 
 pant grower, profuse bloomer, and universally culti- 
 vated. 
 
 Charles the Tenth, rosy purple, very double, and in dry 
 weather blooms well, but in moist weather its buds 
 do not open ; is an excellent rose in a southern lati- 
 tude. 
 
 Coeurjaune and Coeur soufre are like yellowish-white, a hardy 
 rose of strong growth, and profusion of flowers. 
 
 Cloth of Gold, or chromatella — deep sulphur yellow, very 
 large flower, cupped and fine — fragrant. 
 
 Cora L. Barton, fine rosy pink, very large flower, a profuse 
 bloomer, fragrant. 
 
 Euphrosyne, rosy bufi", inclining to yellow, very fragrant — a 
 very profuse blooming variety of medium growth. 
 7* 
 
78 NOISETTE ROSES. [April. 
 
 Fellenberg, bright crimson, double, a strong grower, profuse 
 in bloom, and a decided, distinct, and excellent rose. 
 
 Jaune Desprez, or French yellow Noisette, rosy buff, large, 
 and perfectly double, flowers in large clusters; is a 
 strong grower and delightfully fragrant, very hardy, 
 and well calculated for a pillar rose. 
 
 Joan d'Arc, yellowish-white, of strong growth 
 
 La Nymphe, delicate pink, blooms profusely, dwarf habit. 
 
 Lamarque, greenish-white, extremely large, profuse in bloom, 
 perfectly double, and agreeably scented — closely ap- 
 proaches the tea rose in its size and fragrance; it makes 
 a splendid pillar rose, frequently growing ten feet in 
 one season. 
 
 Lady Byron, pink, very compact, and perfectly double, and 
 is a good pillar rose. 
 
 Lutea or Smithii, pale yellow, large double flowers, but does 
 not open well in moist weather; it is a superb article 
 when perfect, and is quite a dwarf, having very little 
 of the Noisette character, but delightfully scented. 
 
 Luxembourg, fine rosy purple, very perfect, a free grower and 
 fragrant. 
 
 Maria, dark rose, perfect form, rapid grower. 
 
 Ophire, orange yellow tinged with red, very double, a free 
 grower, fragrant, very distinct. 
 
 Orloff, bright pink, large and showy, though not very double 
 — a profuse bloomer when well established — is a very 
 strong grower, and excellent for covering arbours or 
 trellises. 
 
 Phaloe, rosy pink, large, fully cupped flower. 
 
 Solfatare, sulphur yellow, large and perfectly double, a strong 
 grower, very fragrant, when well established blooming 
 profusely. 
 
 Superba, delicate pink, an old rose, perfectly double, blooms 
 in large clusters ; is of strong habit, and flowers pro- 
 fusely. This, with Noisette Lee, are our two best old 
 Noisette Roses. 
 
 Vitellina, pure white, cupped form, very double. 
 
 Washington, pure white, a strong grower. 
 
April.'] MUSK-SCKNTED ROSES. 79 
 
 MUSK-SCENTED ROSES (ROSA MOSCHATA), 
 
 The white musk-scented cluster rose is one of the oldest 
 inhabitants of the rose garden, and is known all over the 
 earth, where the rose has been cultivated, or its name been 
 beard. It is supposed that it is the famed rose of the Per- 
 sian poets. Although there are several varieties under this 
 head, very few of them, indeed, have that peculiar fragrance 
 which the genuine old species possesses. They require similar 
 treatment to the Bourbon and Noisette Roses, and, in fact, 
 fanciers have been, if possible, too minute to separate this 
 group from the Noisette Roses, merely because they are, in 
 some degree, musk-scented. 
 
 Old musk cluster, yellowish white, expanded and semi-double, 
 blooms in immense clusters and finely scented 
 
 Herbemonte, pure white, very large flower in fine clusters. 
 
 Princess de Nassau, creamy white, perfectly double, very fra- 
 grant, and blooms in large clusters. 
 
 Ranunculus, musk cluster, pure white, very double ; flowers 
 in very large clusters. 
 
 CLIMBING ROSES THAT BLOOM ONLY ONCE IN THE 
 SEASON. 
 
 Under this head, we will have to place several roses from 
 very diiferent countries, but all agreeing in habit and flower- 
 ing disposition. Our readers will now be fully impressed 
 with the knowledge that all roses of luxuriant growth require 
 copious nourishment. Such is the case with many of those 
 we are now about to describe; but others of them will grow 
 and bloom most beautifully perfect even on the poorest of 
 soil, and are very capable of covering rock-work, a sterile 
 bank, or naked wall, or any disagreeable object, where it is 
 not convenient to excavate for the purpose of introducing 
 nutritious soils ; and several of them are of such a hardy 
 nature that they will withstand the utmost severity of our 
 Northern States ; others are more delicate, and can only bear 
 the mild winters of a southern climate, where they richly 
 display both flowers and foliage, and even retain their foliage 
 
80 CLIMBING ROSES, ETC. ^AprH 
 
 during winter, and are evergreens for screening disagree- 
 able objects or covering arbours.' The best of the united 
 groups are 
 
 (r)* Ayrshire tea-scented, or Rosa Ruga, delicate blush, 
 flowers very compact and perfectly double ; it is a 
 free-grower and an excellent pillar-rose, with a delight- 
 ful fragrance. There are several others of the Ayr- 
 shire Rose, under very tempting names, such as Double 
 Crimson, Mottled, Eclipse, Ayrshire, Queen, Elegans, 
 &c. These may do for those who wish a multiplicity 
 of names ; but will not take with our floral public, 
 who wish every plant to have some merit as well as a 
 name to recommend it. 
 
 Boursalt, white. Rose de Lisle, Boursalt Florida, Calypso, 
 Pompone Florida, and Bengal Florida, &c., for it is 
 known by all these names, and I have imported it 
 four times, under different names ; it is a blush white, 
 and frequently exceedingly large and handsome, and 
 is a pillar rose ; its very double delicate flowers have 
 a fine effect. 
 
 Boursalt elegans. Purple Boursalt, Purple Noisette, &c., 
 flowers of a vivid purple crimson, with an occasional 
 stripe of white, nearly double, and an early and pro- 
 fuse bloomer ; is an excellent rose for an arbour. 
 
 Inermis, very large, bright pink, a little fragrant, 
 
 grows and blooms freely. 
 
 Banksia alba, white, with pink centre, very small, but per- 
 fectly double; has an agreeable violet perfume, and is 
 a profuse bloomer, but is entirely too delicate to with- 
 stand our winters. This and the following are natives 
 of China : 
 
 lutea, yellow, inclining to buff, in every other cha- 
 racter similar to the former. They are elegant ever- 
 greens in the gardens of our Southern States, and are 
 very highly esteemed ; frequently known under the 
 name of White Evergreen Multljlora, and Yellow Ever- 
 green Mult! flora. 
 
 (y)Felicite de perpetua, Noisette florabunda, Ahelard sem- 
 pervirens, Noisette compacta, Mademoiselle EuphrasiCf 
 
 * Tliose marked thus (r) will do admirably for rock-work. 
 
April'} CLIMBING ROSES, ETC. 81 
 
 and perhaps many other high-sounding names ; it is 
 a beautiful cream-white, with perfect shaped flowers, 
 and makes a lovely rock-work or pillar rose ; but is 
 rather delicate for our severe winters. 
 Graulhie, pure white, cup form in large clusters, very double, 
 
 a strong grower and free bloomer 
 Grevillia, or seven sisters, is a very curious rose, flowered the 
 first time with us in June, 1830. It is of the Mul- 
 tiflora variety, and is a native of China ; growth free 
 and luxuriant ; leaves large and deeply nerved j 
 flowers in large clusters, almost every eye of the 
 wood of last year producing one cluster, having on it 
 from eight to twenty roses, according to the state of 
 the plant, each rose expanding differently in colour or 
 shade. Many suppose that they expand all of the 
 same colour, and change afterwards. This is not the 
 case. We have seen them white, pink, red, purple, 
 and various other shades when the bloom expanded ; 
 and on two clusters we have observed twenty-two dis- 
 tinct shades of colour. In fact, it is a complete non- 
 descript, having roses single, semi-double, and double, 
 large and small, and every colour between white and 
 purple, forming, in every garden where it is planted, a 
 wonder of the vegetable world. 
 Multiflora, beautiful pink, very compact and double; it is 
 rather tender for this latitude. Celebrated as being 
 the first climbing rose that was planted in or about 
 Philadelphia, and was so much admired that twenty 
 dollars were frequently given for a single plant. 
 
 alba, similar to the former, but lighter in colour, 
 
 though not a pure white. 
 
 Laure de Voust, changeable pale blush, pink or 
 
 white, very compact, of the most perfect form, and a 
 profuse bloomer, of rampant growth, and more hardy 
 than the two preceding; it is one of the most beauti- 
 ful and elegant of climbing roses, with rather large 
 flowers and luxuriant foliage. 
 Prairie Rose ; a few elegant sorts have been grown from this 
 single-flowered native rose : all are of rapid growth 
 and partaking of the parent in blooming later than 
 roses generally that flower only once in the season ; 
 they are admirably adapted for covering arbours, rock 
 
82 ROSA MICROPHYLLA, ETC. ^A^ril 
 
 work, or out-buildings of any kind, being of the most 
 hardy nature, and standing the severest of our winters 
 even in the most Northern States. 
 
 Beauty of Prairies, or Queen of Prairies, dark rose, cup form, 
 very large, and frequently striped with white ; it is 
 highly esteemed, and a strong grower. 
 
 Prairie Baltimore Belle, nearly white, very perfect form, 
 quite double, blooming in clusters. 
 
 Superba, blush, a very profuse bloomer in rich clus- 
 ters, perfectly double. 
 
 Purpurea, rosy purple, imbricated, very double ; said 
 
 to bloom again in the autumn. 
 
 " Anne Maria, pale rose, large and double. 
 
 Mrs. Hovey, blush white. 
 
 Mrs. Pierce, fine pink, perfect form. 
 
 Pride of Washington, rosy violet, beautiful. 
 
 Russelliana, Cottage Hose, and Scarlet Grevillia : this is a 
 distinct article in growth from any other of this 
 group ; it is perfectly hardy, and does not climb so 
 freely ; still it DDakes a lovely pillar rose with large 
 clusters of bright crimson shaded flowers. 
 
 Triumphant, bright cherry red, very distinct and perfectly 
 double. 
 
 ROSA MICROPHTLLA (OR SMALL-LEAVED ROSe). 
 
 This pretty little rose was originally from China, and since 
 it has been introduced, several additions have been made by 
 cultivation ; although we have not yet seen any to excel the 
 original Hose microphylla. They delight in light rich dry 
 soils, and form very fine bushes for grass-plats or small lawns, 
 and generally flower the whole summer, producing their 
 blooms from short young shoots produced from the wood of 
 two or three years' growth. The plants should all have a 
 little protection the first winter after planting, and in pruning, 
 the shoots should only be thinned out, or any dead piece cut 
 off; we have had several roses under very enticing names 
 added to this group, such as striped microphyV a, crimson 
 microphylla, scarlet microphylla, all deceptive; and even the 
 first plant that came out as double white proved to be entirely 
 single ; but there is now a genuine double white, though not 
 
April^ ROSA MICROPHYLLA, ETC. 83 
 
 properly a microphylla. The following few are all we liave 
 Been worth cultivating : 
 
 Microphylla. This rose is unique in every character. The 
 foliage is very small and neat, and the calyx thick 
 and bristly. The flowers are produced at the extremity 
 of the young shoots in twos and threes, according to 
 the strength of the plant j they are large and double ; 
 the exterior petals large and full ; those of the inte- 
 rior are very short and thick-set; the colour in the 
 centre is dark, shading lighter towards the exterior ; 
 the spines are in pairs on each side of the compound 
 leaves. It is perfectly hardy, and greatly esteemed, 
 and not so subject to be attacked by insects as other 
 roses. 
 
 rubra, dark red, having every character of the 
 
 preceding. They are frequently called " The Burr 
 Rose," from the apppearance of the bud. 
 
 violac^, reddish violet ; in habit very similar to 
 
 the former, but much darker in colour, and is a true 
 microphylla. 
 
 Microphylla odorata alba, yellowish white, perfectly double, 
 and finely scented ; is a strong grower, and very con- 
 stant bloomer. 
 
 Maria Leonida, white, centre tinged with pink ; is very 
 sweet-scented — blooms all the season — but has more 
 the habit of a Macartney than Microphylla Rose. 
 
 We have now concluded our few descriptions of the beau- 
 tiful family of Roses ; informing our readers, if they should 
 think it brief, we can assure them it is candid, and as far as 
 we know, in every respect impartial. No doubt we could 
 have given many beautiful details of " things" we never saw 
 and probably never will ; and we also promise that a few of 
 our descriptions will, in some situations and peculiar seasons, 
 "come short," or perhaps "overshoot the mark;" for it is 
 well known to the cultivator that double roses will occa- 
 sionally come single, and red roses become blush, and blush 
 roses frequently bloom entirely white, and vice versa. We 
 have also seen a moss rose bush have roses and shoots en- 
 tirely without their " mossy coat." We have also avoided a 
 few of high standing in character ; but not being entirely 
 
84 CLIMBING PLANTS. lApril. 
 
 known to us in their intrinsic worth, a description of them 
 would have been too hazardous, knowing that much exagge- 
 ration exists. 
 
 The Roses and all their allies, described in this month, 
 should be planted from the first to the middle of the month • 
 and we would again enforce upon our rose amateurs the ac- 
 tual necessity of giving soil of enriching qualities to all their 
 roses ; they will be amply repaid for their trouble. Nearly 
 all the failures of roses giving a grateful and even universal 
 satisfaction, can be traced to bad and shallow soils, more es- 
 pecially in our city gardens, where cheapness of workman- 
 ship is the best recommendation ; consequently, there are a 
 few inches of tolerahle-loohing day thrown over brickbats 
 and lime rubbish, and, when finished, is considered a " fine 
 job," because it is done cheap; the result is, that often the 
 very next season the whole has to be gone over and done 
 in a permanent manner ; not less than sixteen or eighteen 
 inches of the best dark loam should be in every garden, and 
 that well incorporated with manure at least one year old, and 
 also have a portion of sand or fine rotten rock thoroughly 
 mixed with it ; and then, and not till then, the proprietor 
 may expect satisfaction. 
 
 CLIMBING PLANTS. 
 
 As shade is much required in this country, and plants 
 suitable for covering arbours, &c., eagerly sought for, we will 
 make a few remarks on those which are preferred for their 
 beauty, growth, hardiness, &c. 
 
 AristoIdcJiia siplio Birtliioort, or Dutchman' s pipe, is a very 
 curious blooming plant, with extraordinary large foli- 
 age, and makes an excellent arbour-twiner, afi"ording 
 a dense and cooling shade. 
 
 Calystegia pxihescens, flower double, of a blush white colour, 
 of rather free growth ; dies down in winter and grows 
 up again in spring ; blooms from June to August. 
 
 Clematis viticella pulchella, or double virgin's bower, is an 
 esteemed climbing plant, of rapid growth, with large 
 flowers in great profusion from June to September. 
 There are several varieties of the above, two of them 
 
April.'} CLIMBING PLANTS. 85 
 
 single, and it is said that there is likewise a double 
 red. 
 
 Clematis coerulea, 0. coeridea grandijlora, and G. azurea gran- 
 difiora. This beautiful and entirely new climber is 
 already distinguished by three distinct names, and 
 has been several times figured, each time with more 
 or less flattery. I must confess the first representa- 
 tion I saw of it, truly enchanted me; the brilliancy 
 of its blue surpassing every flower I had ever beheld ; 
 and named G. azurea grandiflora. The flowers are 
 frequently four or five inches in diameter, of a fine 
 bluish violet colour, blooming freely, and perfectly 
 hardy, the most magnificent of the family. 
 
 C. Sieholdii, or bicolour. This is another of Dr. Van Sie- 
 bold's Japan additions, and is nearly related to C. 
 florida. The leaves and branches, however, are rather 
 more downy, and the petals £uff"used with violet 
 spots ; the anthers are also of a violet colour, which 
 has given it the name of bicolour; it is of graceful 
 habit, and the size and beauty of its blossoms render 
 it an attractive inhabitant of the flower-garden. 
 
 C. fldmmida, sweet-scented virgin's bower, is of very rapid 
 gi'owth. Established plants will grow from twenty 
 to forty feet in one season, producing at the axils of 
 the young shoots, large panicles of small white flowers 
 of exquisite fragrance ; the leaves are compound pin- 
 nate ; in bloom from July to November, but in Au- 
 gust, September, and October, the flowers are in great 
 profusion, perfuming the whole garden. This is one 
 of the best climbing hardy plants, and ought to have 
 a situation in every garden. 
 
 C montana, mountain virgin-bower, flowers in large clusters, 
 very pure white, a strong and rapid grower. 
 
 C. Virginidna, is of rapid growth, and well adapted for ar- 
 bours ; flowers, small white in axillary panicles, dioe- 
 cious, leaves ternate, segments cordate, acute, coarsely 
 toothed and lobed, in bloom from June to August. A 
 native, and a little fragrant. 
 
 C. a-?'spa, or Bell Clematis, is a native plant of free growth ; 
 flowers of a pink colour, in clusters, bell-shaped, the 
 points of the petals folding backwards — a little fra- 
 grant. There is also a variety having purple flowers- 
 8 
 
86 CLIMBING PLANTS. lApril. 
 
 C. Jlbrida plenb is a fine free-flowering plant ; though gene- 
 rally considered a shrub, is more herbaceous than 
 shrubbery ; the flowers are large double white ; in 
 growth will not exceed ten feet in one season. 
 Glycine frutescens, a beautiful native climbing shrub, known 
 in our gardens under that name, but is properly Wis- 
 teria frutesccns. It has large pendulous branches of 
 blue leguminose (pea-like) flowers, blooming from May 
 to August; pinnated leaves with nine ovate downy 
 leaflets ; grows freely. 
 
 cJmiensis is given to Wisteria, and is the finest 
 
 climbing shrub of the phaseolius tribe. The flowers 
 are light blue, in long nodding, many-flowered, race- 
 mose spikes, blooming from 5lay to August; pro- 
 fusely ; leaves pinnated with eleven ovate lanceolate 
 silky leaflets, and is of a very rapid growth. It is 
 perfectly hardy, withstanding the severity of our win- 
 ters without protection. 
 Bignbiiia crucigera is an evergreen which is very desirable in 
 many situations, being likewise of luxuriant growth. 
 It will cover in a few years an area of fifty feet ; 
 flowers of an orange scarlet colour, blooming from May 
 to August. 
 B. grandijldra, now given to Tecbma, has large orange- 
 coloured flowers, blooming from June to August, and 
 grows very fast. It is perfectly hardy, and a most 
 magnificent plant. 
 B. rddicans is likewise given to Tecbma, and is a native 
 plant. When in flower it is highly ornamental, but 
 it requires great attention to keep it in regular order, 
 being of a strong rough nature ; in bloom from June 
 to August. 
 Periplaca grceca, silk vine, is a climber of extraordinary 
 growth. Well established plants grow thirty or forty 
 feet in one season ; flowers in clusters from May to 
 July, of a brownish-yellow colour, and hairy inside; 
 leaves smooth, ovate lanceolate, wood slender, twining, 
 and clastic. 
 Hedera Helix, Irish Ivy, is a valuable evergreen for covering 
 naked walls, or any other unsightly object. The 
 foliage is of a lively green, leaves from three to five 
 angled. There are several varieties of it, all valuable 
 
April.'] CLIMBING PLANTS. 87 
 
 for growing in confined shady situations where no other 
 plant will thrive. 
 Ampelbpsis liederacea. This plant is. commonly employed for 
 covering walls, for which the rapidity of its growth 
 and the largeness of the leaves render it extremely 
 appropriate. There are several species of the genus, 
 all resembling the Vine in habit and in flower. 
 Tasminum officinale, garden Jasmine. This delightful climb- 
 ing shrub has been in common use all over Europe 
 for covering arbours from time immemorial ; its white, 
 delicate, and lovely fragrant flowers render it a great 
 acquisition. Unfortunately, with us, it is rather deli- 
 cate for our winters, unless well protected by a south 
 wall or other building, and even then, when in a 
 young state, must be protected; but, in the South, 
 this plant and also the yellow Jasminum revoliUum 
 grow luxuriantly and bloom profusely, and even J. 
 grandlfidrum is a hardy shrub in South Carolina and 
 Georgia. J. nudijloruin, flowers large, bright golden 
 yellow, a new and desirable species from Japan, 
 flowers very early in spring. 
 Lonicera, or more properly Caprifolium. The Honeysuckle. 
 This genus of flowering odoriferous climbing shrubs 
 are principally natives of this country : they are all 
 equally beautiful ; but where there is not space in 
 our city gardens to cultivate the whole family, it is 
 ndispensable to have C. Jlrxudsiim, the Chinese sweet- 
 scented or evergreen ; it blooms in May and Septem- 
 ber, and is a very rapid grower. O. Belgica is also a 
 charming species; it blooms the whole summer, and 
 is very odorous. Our native C. sempervirens, or 
 Coral Honeysuckle, is not easily surpassed ; its pro- 
 fuse and brilliant scarlet flowers render it the most 
 attractive object in all our country gardens. C. Jctpb- 
 niciim is also an excellent Chinese species, with deli- 
 cate orange-coloured flowers of agreeable sweetness, 
 but will not bear our winters north of the southern 
 part of Virginia. 
 2^-^*nora, or Passion vine. There are several hardy species 
 for this latitude ; but the only very beautiful one is 
 F. incarndta, which, although it dies to the ground 
 every wmter, yet rill, during the summer, put forth 
 
88 or PLANTING EVERGREEN SHRUBS. \_April 
 
 shoots from twenty to forty feet long, all covered with 
 a profusion of beautiful purple flowers. 
 
 There are several other climbing plants, both curious and 
 ornamenta. ; but our limits will not admit of farther detail. 
 
 DECIDUOUS SHRUBS. 
 
 Finish planting all deciduous shrubs in the early part of 
 the month. These plants are generally delayed too long; 
 the leaves in many instances are beginning to expand, thereby 
 giving a check to the ascending sap, which we may safely 
 assert causes the death of one-third of the plants, when per- 
 haps the operator or some individual more distantly concerned 
 is blamed. 
 
 These shrubs, if properly removed and planted at the exact 
 starting of vegetation, pressing the earth close to their roots 
 when planting (previously taking care that the small fibre,i 
 have not become dry, by exposure), there will not one out of 
 fifty fail by these simple attentions. Those that are late 
 planted should have frequent waterings, and, if large, firmly 
 supported, that the wind may have no efi"ect in disturbing the 
 young and tender fibrous roots. 
 
 OF PLANTING EVERGREEN SHRUBS. 
 
 Now is the season to j)lant all kinds of evergreen trees and 
 shrubs. In most seasons, the middle of the month is the 
 most proper time, the weather then being mild and moist; 
 or if a late season, defer it to the end of the month. When 
 planted earlier, they will remain dormant until this time, 
 and their tender fibrous roots in that case frequently perish 
 from their liability to injury from frost or frosty winds, being 
 more susceptible of such injury than fibres of deciduous 
 plants. They now begin to vegetate, which is the grand 
 criterion for transplanting any plant. The buds begin to 
 swell, the roots to push, and if they can be quickly lifted 
 and replanted, they will hardly receive a check. At all 
 events, care must be taken that they are not long out of the 
 ground and exposed to the air, whi )h greatly assists the sue- 
 
April.'] CARE OF CHOICE BULBS. 89 
 
 cess in planting. It may be observed that evergreens in 
 general succeed the better the smaller they are, although we 
 have seen plants, trees, and evergreens upward of thirteen 
 feet high, and fifteen in diameter, successfully lifted, and 
 carried several miles.* By the second year there was no 
 appearance that such operation had taken place. In prepar- 
 ing a hole for the reception of these plants, make it larger 
 than the roots, breaking the bottom thereof fine, and putting 
 in some fi*esh soil. Place the plant upright in the centre, 
 putting in the earth and breaking it fine, and give the plant 
 a few gentle shakes. When the roots are more than half 
 covered, put in a pot or pailful of water, allowing it to sub- 
 side; then cover all the roots, give a second or third pailful, 
 and when subsided, the earth will be close to all the roots. 
 Cover with more earth, pressing all firm with the foot. Put 
 more soil loosely on, which will give it a finished appearance, 
 and prevent it from becoming dry, and not require mulching, 
 which has an unsightly appearance. All that the wind will 
 have any hurtful eifect upon must be firmly supported, espe- 
 cially large plants. If the weather sets in dry and hot, they 
 should be watered as often as necessity shall direct. 
 
 Those that are established, it will be necessary to go over 
 them (if not already done) to cut off all wood killed in winter, 
 and also to thin them if too thick and crowded. 
 
 When the above is done, let every part of the shrubbery be 
 dressed off as directed in March. Shrubs of all kinds will 
 now begin to look gay and lively, which may be very much 
 heightened or depreciated, according to the state in which the 
 ground and contiguous walks are kept. Always keep in view 
 that weeds are no objects of beauty. 
 
 CARE OP CHOICE BULBS. 
 
 Hi/acintlis of the earliest sorts will begin to expand and 
 show their colours ; of which we can boast of a few as fine 
 sorts in the vicinity of Philadelphia as in any garden of 
 Europe ; but even these very superior sorts, when in bloom, 
 are too frequently neglected, being allowed to stand without 
 rods, stakes, or any means of support, likewise equally ex- 
 
 * See Mr. M'Nab's rich pamphlet treatise on removing evergreens, &c. 
 
 8* 
 
90 CARE OP CHOICE BULBS. lAjoril 
 
 posed to drenching rains and scorching suns ; and the finest 
 collections may be seen after heavy rains prostrate on the 
 ground, whereas a few hours' trouble would give them the 
 requisite support, thereby preserving their beauty much 
 longer, and giving more gratification. As soon as the stems 
 advance to any height, they should be supported by wires, 
 rods, &c., and tied slightly thereto with threads of matting, 
 or any other substitute; repeat the tying as they advance, 
 avoid tying among the florets, because they grow by exten- 
 sion, and are liable to be broken off by so doing. The sun 
 deteriorates the colours very much, especially the red, blue, 
 and yellow sorts; whereas, if they were simply protected 
 from the sun by an awning of thin canvass, the colours would 
 be preserved and the beauty protracted. If there are stakes 
 drove into the ground on each side of the beds, about three 
 feet high, with others in the centre about eight feet, having 
 laths or hoops from the side to the centre, formed similar to 
 the roof of a house, so that people may walk or sit under it, 
 the canvass or awning being thin, to admit of the light freely, 
 the effect in the time of sunshine, from the brilliancy of the 
 colours, is peculiarly gratifying. Where an awning is thus 
 erected, it requires to be kept on only from nine to three 
 o'clock in sunshiny days, and during nights or time of rain, 
 allowing the awning on the most northern side to come close 
 to the ground, when necessary, to shelter them from cold, 
 cutting winds. 
 
 The properties of a good Hyacinth are, namely — the stem 
 strong and erect, the florets or bells occupying one-half of 
 the stem, each floret suspended by a short strong footstalk, 
 longest at the bottom ; the uppermost floret quite erect, so 
 that the whole may form a pyramid. Each floret well filled 
 with petals rising toward the centre, that it may appear to 
 the eye a little convex. Regarding colour, fancy does not 
 agree, and the most scrupulous cultivators differ materially. 
 However, the more pure and bright the finer, or a white 
 with a pink centre, or the centre of the petals with a paler 
 or deeper colour appearing striped, which is considered to 
 have a good effect. 
 
 Tulips in every respect should have the same care and 
 protection, never neglecting to have the beds with a smooth 
 clean surface, and the stems neatly tied up, although they 
 are not in so much danger as Hyacinths. 
 
Aprill ANEMONES AND RANUNCULUS. 91 
 
 The characters of a good TuHp are — the stem strong, 
 elastic, and erect, about two feet high ; the flower large and 
 composed of six petals, proceeding a little horizontally at 
 first, and then turning upward, forming a flat-bottomed cup, 
 rather widest at the top ; the three exterior petals should be 
 larger than the three interior ones, and broader at their 
 base ; the edges of the petals entire, free from notch or rug- 
 gedness; the top of each well rounded. The colour of the 
 flower at the bottom of the cup ought to be pure white, or 
 yellow, and the rich-coloured stripes, which are the principal 
 ornament, should be pure, bold, regular, and distinct on the 
 margin, and terminate in fine points elegantly pencilled. 
 The centre of each petal should have one bold stripe, or 
 blotch, of rich colouring. The ground colours that are most 
 esteemed are white, the purer the finer; or, on the other 
 hand, the dark grounds, and of course the darker the better ; 
 but these vary in estimation, according to the prevailing taste 
 '~f amateurs. 
 
 ANEMONES AND RANUNCULUS. 
 
 Moist weather and frequent showers are highly essential 
 to the perfecting of these flowers ; and if these should fail at 
 this season of the year, artificial means must be used to sup- 
 ply the deficiency. Take a watering-pot without the rose, 
 and run the water (river or rain water is best) gently between 
 the rows, taking care not to make holes in the ground. 
 When they have got a good watering at root, take the 
 syringe and give them a gentle sprinkling in fine evenings, 
 observing not to use force, for fear of breaking the flower- 
 stems. In dry weather, the result of a deficiency of water 
 would be, that the stems and flowers of the strongest roots 
 will be weak and make no progress, and many of them will 
 not bloom ; the foliage of a sickly, yellow aj^pearance, from 
 which they would not recover ; and the roots, when taken 
 up, are of little use for farther transplanting. 
 
 A good plan in dry seasons is to cover the ground between 
 the rows with cow manure, which will prevent the moisture 
 from evaporating ; and the rain or water passing through it 
 greatly enriches the soil and strengthens the roots. 
 
92 CHARACTER OP A PINE AURICULA. {^April 
 
 CHARACTER OF A FINE RANUNCULUS. 
 
 " It is indispensable for a good ranunculus to have a ptera 
 about eight or twelve inches high, strong enough to support 
 the flower, and quite upright. The form of the flower should 
 be hemispherical, not less than two inches in diameter, con- 
 sisting of numerous petals, gradually diminishing in size to 
 the centre, lying over each other, so as neither to be too 
 close nor too much separated, but having more of a perpen- 
 dicular than a horizontal direction, in order to display the 
 colours with better efi'ect. The petals should be broad, with 
 entire well-rounded edges, their colours dark, clear, rich, or 
 brilliant, either of one colour or variously diversified, on a 
 ground of cinereous white, primrose, yellow, or flame colour, 
 or diversifled with elegant stripes, spots, or mottlings.'^ 
 
 AURICULAS. 
 
 Having under this head last month given ample directions 
 for the treatment of these plants previous to flowering, we 
 refer to that head to avoid repetition. 
 
 CHARACTER OP A FINE AURICULA. 
 
 The pips should be large, flat, and round, with ground 
 colour equal on every side of the eye, which should be quite 
 circular, as icell as the edge. The tube a bright lemon-yel- 
 low, perfectly round, well filled with the anthers or thrum, 
 the eye round and large, the body colour black or violet, the 
 meal fine ; the colour, in green-edged flowers, should be a 
 whole one, not a shaded green. The stem strong, and suffi- 
 ciently long to bear the truss above the foliage — the truss 
 to consist of not less than five full-blown pips ; only one stem 
 allowed. 
 
 CARNATIONS, PINKS, ETC. 
 
 If any of these were omitted to be shifted last month, or 
 planted out according to directions therein given, let it be 
 
April'] POLIANTHES TUBEROSA FLORE PLENO. 93 
 
 done forthwith. Where they are still protected with frames, 
 give them plenty of air, keeping the sashes entirely off during 
 the day, keep the pots perfectly free from weeds, and give 
 the foliage frequent sprinklings with water. 
 
 Polyanthus and Primroses will be exhibiting their beauti 
 ful flowers. They require the same treatment, and delight 
 in moisture and a shaded situation. Do not sprinkle them 
 while in flower, and keep them clear of weeds or decayed 
 leaves, never exposing them to the sun. They are very 
 hardy, and, where required, may be planted in very shady 
 situations, for they will sufi"er more from the influence of the 
 sun's rays than from frost. Those plants in pots in general 
 that have been protected in frames, and are destined for the 
 borders, should now as soon as possible be planted in their 
 destined situations, having nothing to fear from chilling 
 winds or frosts after the middle of this month, except in un- 
 common seasons. Those that are to be kept in pots, if not 
 repotted, do it immediately, and give regular supplies of water. 
 
 CHARACTER OP A POLYANTHUS. 
 
 The pips large, flat, and round, with small indentures be- 
 tween each division of the limb, dividing the pip into heart- 
 like segments edged with bright yellow; the edge and the eye 
 ought to be of the same colour, the truss to consist of not less 
 than five full-blown pips, supported on a strong stem, standing 
 well above the foliage. 
 
 POLIANTHES TUBEROSA FLORE PLENO. 
 
 This very popular bulb, generally known as Tuberose, has 
 been cultivated in England upwards of two centuries, whence 
 we, no doubt, have received it, and now can return those of 
 our production to supply their demand. The flowers are 
 many and highly odoriferous, and of the purest white, and 
 on a flower -stem from three to five feet high. To have them 
 in the greatest perfection, they should be planted in a lively 
 hot bed, about the first of this month, in six inch pots filled 
 with light rich earth, giving very little water until they begin 
 to grow, when they ought to be liberally supplied with plenty 
 
94 heart's ease or pansy. [April. 
 
 of air, and about the end of nest month they may be planted 
 in the borders, providing a spot for them that is or has been 
 well worked, and enriched with well-decomposed manure. 
 Secure their flower-stems to proper rods. Previous to plant- 
 ing the roots, all the off-sets should be taken off and planted 
 separately ; keep the crown of the bulb level with the surface 
 of the pot, and when they are replanted in the open ground, 
 put them two inches deeper. 
 
 But when the convenience of a hot-bed cannot be obtained, 
 they will succeed very well if planted about the end of this 
 month or first of next in the garden, in a bed of earth pre- 
 pared for their reception. Let it be dug deep, and make 
 the soil light and rich, by giving it a good supply of manure 
 two years old, well broken and incorporated with the earth, 
 adding a little sand where the soil is heavy. The black earth 
 from the woods, produced from decayed leaves, is equally as 
 good without sand. Having the ground in proper order, draw 
 drills about four inches deep and eighteen inches apart ; plant 
 the bulbs (after divesting them of their off-sets) nine inches 
 apart in a row, covering the crown of the bulb about an inch 
 and a half When done, carefully rake and finish off the 
 beds. When they shoot up their flower-stems, give them 
 neat rods for their support. Plant the off-sets in closer rows 
 to produce flowering-roots for next year, because they seldom 
 flower the second time. 
 
 ON THE CULTURE OF THE HEARt'S-EASE OR PANSY (VIOLA 
 
 tricolor). 
 
 The simplicity and striking beauty of this lovely little 
 flower have attracted notice from the earliest floral times, but 
 it is only within these few years that it has come into high 
 estimation as a florist's flower. Indeed, when the figures and 
 descriptive characters of these " little gems" came first front. 
 England to this country, we were almost induced to believe 
 they were exaggerated " pictures of fancy," till we actually 
 cultivated them within these last two years, in our own 
 parterre, upwards of two inches in diameter. 
 
 They delight in a situation partially shaded from the hot 
 rays of the sun, either fully exposed to the morning rays till 
 ten o'clock, or the afternoon sun from three o'clock ; a soil 
 
April.'] heart's-ease or pansy. 95 
 
 composed of four parts good loam and one part thoroughly 
 rotted manure, or three parts loam and one part decayed 
 leaves, not less than one foot deep : the soil must not be 
 more elevated than the surrounding surface, as they like a 
 good supply of moisture. If they are to be cultivated from 
 seeds, they should be thinly sown about the first of the month, 
 or about the end of August or first of September, and very 
 lightly covered with fine soil, giving them very frequent 
 waterings in dry weather. Those sown now will bloom in 
 July, and very profusely in the autumn ; but those sown in 
 the latter period will not bloom till early the following spring. 
 When any very esteemed variety is raised, it should be pro- 
 pagated, which is very easily done, either by layers or cut- 
 tings, and sometimes by division of the root, but the two 
 former methods are preferable. The best time for laying is 
 about the first of September : an inch or two of the soil may 
 be removed all round the plant, the shoots laid down in the 
 hollow, and covered over with light rich compost. The 
 shoots will root more freely if they get a gentle twist when 
 laying them down. The best period for propagating by 
 cuttings is about the middle of this month or September. 
 Cuttings should be chosen from young shoots, about two or 
 three inches long ; for when shoots are woody or hollow they 
 will either not strike at all or produce unhealthy plants. A 
 shaded but airy situation is preferable, and if the soil is of a 
 light sandy nature, the better success will attend the opera- 
 tion : the cuttings should be firmly inserted from one to two 
 inches deep in the ground, and covered with a glass, or where 
 that convenience is not at hand, they may be shaded during 
 the day with oiled paper, or any similar substitutes. In pre- 
 paring the cuttings, care ought to be taken to cut close to a 
 joint, a rule which should be strictly attended to in making 
 cuttings of every description. When they uive fairly rooted 
 and taken a growth, they can be removed '.n cloudy, moist 
 weather, to their proper allotments. Seeds ought to be care- 
 fully collected from the finer sorts, and sown is soon there- 
 after as convenience will allow, as they deteriorate by long 
 keeping. Many hundreds of named varieties are carefully 
 cultivated in England. A select list sent contains only three 
 hundred and seventy-four names. To attempt a general or 
 even brief description of them in this work, would be consi- 
 dered by many of our friends prolix and unnecessary j but 
 
96 JACOBEA LILY. lApril. 
 
 the following criteria of a fine Pansy has just passed a select 
 committee of the Pennsylvania Horticultural Socioty : — 
 
 " The chief object to be desired is symmetry of the flower. 
 The petals should be large, broad, and flat, lying upon each 
 other so as to form a circle, and prevent anything like angles 
 or intersections of this circular outline. The petals should 
 be as nearly of a size as possible, the two top ones being the 
 largest, but so covered with the two side ones as not to 
 appear disproportioned. The top petals should not wave or 
 bend back. The bottom petal should be broad and two- 
 lobed, flat, and not curving inward ; above an inch in breadth 
 is a good size ; the colours should be clear, brilliant, and not 
 changing. The eye should not be too large, and it is ac- 
 counted finest when the pencilling is so arranged as to form a 
 dark angular spot. 
 
 " The flower-stalk should be long and stiff", rather than 
 slender." 
 
 GLADIOLUS, OR SWORD LILY. 
 
 It is now a well-ascertained fact that the whole of this 
 beautiful family will succeed well with a treatment similar 
 to the tuberose, requiring to be two or three weeks earlier 
 planted : indeed, G. communis and its varieties are perfectly 
 hardy ; but the splendid G. psittannus, with large yellow, 
 red, and green flowers ; G. cardinalis, scarlet and white ; G. 
 blaiidus, rose and white; G. florabundus, shaded rose 5 G. 
 formosissimus, magnificent scarlet; G. Gandavensis, large 
 and superb orange, scarlet and yellow; G. ramosus, delicate 
 waxy pink, of strong growth; G. Buistii, bright scarlet 
 shaded with orange and yellow, splendid ; and several others 
 are worthy of the greatest care and attention. Their large 
 spikes of showy flowers will well compensate for an extra 
 degree of care in preparation of soil, &c. 
 
 AMARYLLIS PORMOSISSIMA, OR JACOBEA LILY. 
 
 About the end of this or beginning of next month is the 
 most proper time for planting out these bulbs. This flower 
 is of the most beautiful and rich crimson velvet colour. Th* 
 
April.'} TIGER-FLOWER. 97 
 
 bulb generally produces two stems, the one after the otber, 
 about the end of May or first of June. The stem is from 
 nine inches to one foot high, surmounted by a single flower, 
 composed of six petals, three hanging down, three erect and 
 recurved; the stamens droop on the centre of the under 
 petals. The flower thus appears nodding on one side of the 
 stem, and has a most graceful and charming appearance. If 
 planted in a bed, prepare the ground as before directed for 
 Tuberoses. Keep the rows one foot asunder, and the bulbs 
 six inches apart in the rows, covering them two inches over 
 their crowns. This plant is now called Spreikelia formosis- 
 shna, and we think properly, too, for its character and habit 
 differ from Amari/Uis. 
 
 We have not the smallest doubt that, in a few years, not 
 only this superb South American bulb will adorn our flower- 
 gardens, but many of the rich bulbs of Bi'azil and South 
 America generally will yearly exhibit to us the beauty of 
 their colours, and the beautiful construction of their flowers 
 and foliage, of which we are now generally deprived, perhaps 
 because we have not the conveniency of a proper hot-house 
 for their protection during winter. But it will be found, in 
 many instances, that these bulbs will do perfectly well to be 
 kept dry in a warm room from October to May, when the 
 heat of our summer is sufiicient for the perfection of their 
 flowers, and many species will ripen their seeds. The bulb 
 that is known as Amaryllis Belladonna, now called Bella- 
 donna purpurdscens, is hardy. 
 
 TIGER-FLOWER. 
 
 Tigridia, a genus of Mexican bulbs belonging to Mona- 
 delpliia Tridndria, producing the most beautiful flowers of 
 the natural order of Iridece. T. pavbnia is of the brightest 
 scarlet, tinged and spotted with pure yellow. T. conchijiora, 
 colour rich yellow, tinged and spotted with bright crimson ; 
 flower larger than the former. The colours are very rich, and 
 purely contrasted. The corolla is about four inches in 
 diameter, composed of six petals ; the outer are reflexod. The 
 flower, though splendid in beauty, exists only one day ; but, 
 to compensate for that, a plant will produce flowers for 
 9 
 
98 WALKS. lApril. 
 
 several weeks ; and where a bed of them can be collected, 
 they will bloom in profusion from July to September. They 
 like a light, rich, free soil, from twelve to eighteen inches 
 deep. Lift the bulbs in October, and preserve them as di- 
 rected in that month for Tuberoses. Be sure that they be 
 kept dry and secure from frost. A bed of these should be 
 in every garden. A writer says, " It is the most beautiful 
 flower that is cultivated." Plant them about the end of this 
 or first of next month^ if in beds, keep them six inches apart 
 in the row, and one foot apart from row to row. 
 
 WALKS. 
 
 The walks in general should be put in the neatest order 
 during this month. Little requires to be added to the ob- 
 servations of last month ; but if these have not been executed, 
 fail not to have them done the first opportunity, choosing dry 
 weather for the operation of turning the old or adding new 
 gravel to them, levelling, raking, and rolling neatly as you 
 proceed. Always after rain give the whole of the gravel walks 
 a good rolling. This being frequently done during the early 
 part of the season, will be a saving of much labour and time 
 through the summer. The walks having a firm surface, the 
 growth of weeds will be retarded, and the heavy rains will not 
 be so apt to injure them. Where there are any pretensions 
 to keeping these in order, they ought to be picked of weeds 
 and litter once a week, and gone over with the roller at least 
 once every two weeks during the season. 
 
 Sweep and divest the grass walks or plats of all worm- 
 casts, litter, &c., cutting the edgings neatly. Mow the grass 
 every two or three weeks from this time to October, sweep- 
 ing ofi" the grass clean each time, and give frequent rollings 
 to keep the surface smooth. If any require to be laid with 
 turf, delay it no longer. For direction, see last month. The 
 above observations on walks in general will apply through 
 the season ; therefore, we will not repeat this subject until 
 October. 
 
April.'] BOX EDGINGS. 99 
 
 EVERGREEN HEDGES. 
 
 We have previously observed, under the head Evergreens, 
 that this is the best season for their replanting. We cannot 
 pass over the observations of this month without having 
 reference to evergreen hedges, so much neglected among us, 
 and yet so important to the diversity of aspect, and especially 
 to soften a little the gloomy appearance of our winters. 
 There are three indigenous shrubs, and at least three exotics, 
 that are well adapted for the purpose, viz., Pinus Canadensis, 
 Hemlock-spruce; Thuja occidentdHs, American arbor-vitae; 
 Thitja orientdlis, Chinese arbor-vitae; and Jiiniperis Virgi- 
 nidna, Red-cedar. Where there is to be a hedge of any of 
 these planted, select plants about two feet high ; lift them 
 carefully, preserving the roots as much as possible. Dig a 
 trench from one and a half to two feet wide, and from one 
 to one foot and a half deep. This will admit the soil to be 
 well broken about the roots, which must be done in planting. 
 Keep the plants in the centre of the trench, mixing the 
 shortest and the tallest, that it may be of one height, putting 
 the earth close about their roots as you proceed, and make it 
 firm with the foot; fill up, and water as directed for ever- 
 greens in this month. If the season is very dry, give it fre- 
 quent copious waterings. 
 
 None of them should be topped for a few seasons, except 
 such as are much above the others in height, keeping the 
 sides regular and even by clipping or shearing once a year, 
 either in this month or at the end of August. It is better 
 to keep the top (when they have got to the desired height) 
 pointed than broad. The latter method retains a heavy 
 weight of snow, which frequently breaks down, or otherwise 
 deforms, that which has cost much labour to put into shape. 
 
 Euonymus japonica, bright green foliage of free growth 
 and quite hardy. There is also the variegated variety, very 
 excellent for hedges south of this latitude. 
 
 BOX EDGINGS. 
 
 Where these have not been laid, this month is the proper 
 time. Do not delay the planting of such any later. For 
 ample directions, see M^rdi^ JuMflaa . this!;:^ead . Clipping of 
 
 dmcti of H^ 
 
100 CARE OP PLANTS COMING INTO FLOWER. [^April. 
 
 these should be done about the middle of this month. 
 There will then be no danger of frosts to brown the leaves, 
 and the young foliage will not be expanded. To keep these 
 edgings in order, they must be cut once a year, and never be 
 allowed to get above four inches high and two inches wide. 
 What we consider the neatest edging is three inches high, 
 two inches wide at the bottom, tapering to a thin edge at the 
 top. It is very unsightly to see large bushy edgings, espe- 
 cially to narrow walks. 
 
 The use of edgings is to keep the soil from the gravel, and 
 the larger they are allowed to grow, the more ineflFectual they 
 become ; growing more open below as they advance in height. 
 The operation may be done very expeditiously by clipping 
 the tops level, going longitudinally along with shears for the 
 purpose, called " box shears." Strain a line along the centre 
 of the edgings, cutting perpendicularly from the line to the 
 bottom on each side, leaving only the breadth of the line at 
 top. Edgings cut in this manner, every spring, will alwaya 
 look well, and the trouble, comparatively, is a mere trifle. 
 
 GENERAL CARE OF PLANTS COMING INTO FLOWER. 
 
 Every part of the flower-ground should be put into neat 
 order, giving such plants about the borders as are shooting 
 up their flower-stems, and are tender, and in danger of being 
 hurt or broken by the wind, proper sticks or rods for their 
 support. In doing this, endeavour to conceal the rods, &c., 
 as much as possible, by dressing the stems and leaves in a 
 natural-looking manner over them. Let the stakes be in 
 proportion to the height and growth of the plants. It looks 
 very unsightly to see strong stakes to short and weak-growing 
 plants. The tyiugs likewise should be proportionate. 
 
 Examine all the beds and patches of seedling flowers now 
 coming up, and let them be refreshed with water as it may 
 be necessary, and pick out the weeds as they appear. 
 
 We cannot leave this department at this season of the year 
 without enforcing the benefit and beauty that will result 
 from keeping the weeds down during this and the next 
 month. Therefore strictly observe that there are none run- 
 ning to seed in any part of the garden ; in fact, they ought 
 not to be allowed to rear their heads one day in sight. 
 
 Didsion of Horticulture, 
 
May.'] DAHLIAS. 101 
 
 MAY. 
 
 As the season for planting out the Dahlia is now ap- 
 proaching, we will endeavour to give our readers the whole 
 subject of their management, so as to insure a good bloom 
 of this, the most fashionable and popular ornamental plant of 
 the present day. As very many are entirely unacquainted 
 with the nature and even the habits of the plant, a brief 
 synopsis ^f its history will assist in giving a key to its cul- 
 ture. The plant was first disccrvered by Humboldt, in Mex- 
 ico, growing in sandy plains three thousand feet above 
 the level of the sea. The date is not precisely known, but 
 supposed to be about 1785-6. Indisputable authority, how- 
 ever, speaks of its being introduced into England in 1789 ; 
 but was lost and again introduced in 1803, from Madrid, by 
 Lady Holland; from which period till 1830 it had but little 
 notice in cultivation. Indeed, it seems to have been reserved 
 for the intelligent growers of the last few years to bring it 
 into general notice ; and if we take a retrospective view of 
 the rapid progress of Dahlia culture within these last five 
 years, we will be led to exclaim, " Where will all this termi- 
 nate V But time alone can solve the question ; at present it 
 is impossible to come to any satisfactory conclusions. Only 
 a few years ago, and who would have conceived the idea of 
 having tipped, striped, and spotted Dahlias of almost every 
 hue and colour; and although historical writers on the genus 
 alluded to the improbability of a blue flower ever being pro- 
 duced, yet it is not unreasonable to imagine that ere long we 
 will have flowers beautifully and distinctly striped with black 
 and white, and even combining the gaudy colours of the tulip, 
 or the choicest hues of the carnation ; perhaps the criteria of 
 character may change to those of huge globular forms or 
 balls — nay, even the odour of the Rose or the Jasmine may 
 be imparted, and what then? Only let amateurs and culti- 
 vators persevere with the spirit tiiey have done during the 
 last few years, and we think all we have advanced will be 
 realized. 
 
 Propagation. — This operation may be performed in various 
 ways, either by division of the root, by cutting off the young 
 ehoots, or by grafting. For general planting, division of tho 
 9* 
 
102 PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS. [May. 
 
 root will be sufficient; about the first of the month the old 
 root, entire, should be planted in some warm and sheltered 
 spot of the garden, covering it with sand, vegetable mould, 
 or any light soil ; in about two weeks the eyes or young shoots 
 will have sprouted : then it will be properly seen how they 
 can be most carefully divided; the root should be carefully 
 cut into as many pieces as there are eyes or sprouts, leaving 
 only one tuber to each, when they can be planted into the 
 situation appropriated for their blooming. 
 
 Propagation hy Ciiitings. — Prepare a hot-bed in March, 
 as therein described, and place a frame and lights of the 
 required size upon it ; scatter over the surface of the bed four 
 or five inches of sand, old bark, or any light soil ; after four 
 or five days, the fresh steam will have subsided, when the 
 roots may be laid thereon, covering them (but not over the 
 crowns) with light sandy soil ; but where large pots can be 
 obtained, I prefer planting them in the pots ; by this means 
 the plants are kept distinct, and can be taken out at any 
 time and examined. They should be frequently sprinkled 
 with water that is partially warm ; and if, after they are thus 
 placed in the bed, a rank and dense steam should arise, the 
 lights should be slightly raised both night and day, till it 
 subsides; and if the nights are cold, cover the lights with 
 mats or shutters. This gentle bottom-heat will speedily in- 
 duce the eyes to grow, and when the shoots have attained the 
 height of three or four inches, they should be cut ofi" close to 
 the base, which makes the best plant. After the cuttings 
 are taken off, pot them singly into very small pots filled with 
 light sandy loam, containing a good portion of black earth 
 from the woods, and placed in another moderate hot-bed, and 
 give a gentle supply of water. Particular care must be paid 
 to shading them from the violent rays of the sun, for if they 
 are once exposed, they seldom recover : in this state they 
 should continue till they have formed their roots, which, in 
 a temperature of from sixty to seventy degrees, will be in 
 from two to three weeks. Where a great stock of any par- 
 ticular sort is wanted, the* cuttings should be taken off just 
 below a joint, leaving two or three eyes at the base of the 
 shoot, which will again speedily produce new shoots, that can 
 be again removed in a similar manner. 
 
 When the plants are rooted, they may then be considered 
 established, and all that is necessary is, to shift them intc 
 
May.'] SOIL — ARRANGEMENT. 10*3 
 
 larger pots as they require; and gradually inure them to a 
 lower temperature, till they can endure the open air, which 
 will not be before the middle of May. 
 
 Propa(jntion hi/ Grafting. — Where only a few plants are 
 wanted, this is a very successful method, as an operation can 
 be conducted in the office or parlour window. The cutting 
 intended for the graft should have about three joints; when 
 obtained, select a good tuber without eyes from any common 
 sort, and with a sharp knife cut a slice from the upper part 
 of the root downward about two inches in length, and about 
 half an inch in depth, and then cut it off horizontally, leav- 
 ing a ledge whereon to rest the graft; next cut the graft 
 sloping to fit, and cut it so that an eye or joint may be at 
 the bottom of it to rest on the aforesaid ledge. After the 
 graft has been firmly tied, a piece of clay should be put 
 round it ; pot the root in fine soil, in a pot that will bury the 
 graft half way in the mould, and cover it with a glass (a 
 large tumbler will do), and in two weeks it will have taken 
 root ; the glass may then be removed, and the plant gradually 
 inured to the open air. 
 
 Soil. — As far as my observations enable me to judge, the 
 soil best adapted for the Dahlia is a sandy loam, not reten- 
 tive of moisture, and not too rich, as they will grow to leaves 
 and branches, j)roducing few flowers, and even then imper- 
 fect : not too poor, as in such they will be very indifferent, 
 meagre in size and general appearance. Where soils are 
 rich and heavy, a portion of sand or gravel should be mixed 
 in the soil where they are planted : but if poor, incorporate 
 with the sand well-decomposed manure ; and when the plants 
 are planted, a stick in proportion to the plant should be put 
 with it, and at least eighteen inches in the ground, and not 
 less than two inches in diameter, to which they must be care- 
 fully tied as they grow, never allowing more than one stem 
 to each plant ; and the side branches should be cut off from 
 one to three feet from the ground, according to the height of 
 the plant. Emperor de 3Iaroc, the most favourite crimson 
 Dahlia, tipped with white, comes invariably true to its cha- 
 racter in sandy soil, whereas, in rich, heavy soil, it is fre- 
 quently only crimson The worst of all soils for the Dahlia 
 is a rich loam, retentive of moisture; in such they grow to 
 wood and foliage, producing few and very imperfect flower^. 
 
 The best disposition or arrangement in planting tbo 
 
104 AKRANGEMENT. [ifa^. 
 
 Dahlia, I think, is in groups ; each group should be com- 
 posed of a different section of colour : this affords a close 
 comparison, and gives greater diversity of landscape than 
 combining the colours ; the tallest-growing sorts should be 
 carefully jjlanted in the centre or at the back of each group. 
 The roots should be planted from three to four feet from 
 each other every way. But where they are planted in rows 
 along walks or avenues, two or three feet will be a sufficient 
 distance from plant to plant. Individual plants look ex- 
 tremely well if they are of a dwarf habit. To have a con- 
 tinued succession of bloom, there should be two plantings ; 
 the first about the fifteenth of the month, and the latest 
 about the end of June ; it is the June planting that gene- 
 rally produces the finest flowers ; this fact (though lately 
 discovered) is now well understood by some cultivators, and 
 is easily accounted for. When plants are forced and planted 
 early, they are in a flowering state much earlier, to be sure, 
 but they are overtaken with, perhaps, a hot dry summer, 
 which " blights" the buds, and are more subject to the dis- 
 ease called "curl;" the young leaves, as they expand, are pei*- 
 forated with numerous holes ; the margins become brownish, 
 as if burnt; they then become curled, placid, and the whole 
 plant unhealthy and dwarfish. The principal stem ceases to 
 grow, and numerous suckers and stems arise from below, 
 forming a dense bush. The flowers of such plant, as might 
 be expected, are small and irregular ; and however excellent 
 the variety may be, they yield nothing but disappointment 
 to the anxiously expectant cultivator. This disease is caused 
 by an insect, Cymix Clilorof.erus, or green bug. It inhabits 
 the extremities of the Dahlia, and grows and feeds on the 
 under surface of the young leaves, and in its destruction is 
 aided by our frequently hot and arid months of July and 
 August. Hence, the reason that the late planting gives 
 most satisfaction, they are in these months in a rapid grow- 
 ing state, and if attacked outgrow the effects, and push at 
 once into bloom in the more moist and cooling month of 
 September. The only remedy that is known for the above 
 evil is, to look over the plants cautiously in the morning, 
 when the first attacks are perceptible, and pick off the in- 
 sects ; it has to be approached with caution, as it instinctively 
 throws itself down among the leaves if disturbed ; and if it 
 escapes, it again climbs up, and commences its depredations 
 
May."] 
 
 ARRANGEMENT. 
 
 105 
 
 It is admitted that there are exceeding one thousand distinct 
 named varieties now in cultivation, and it may be desirable 
 to some that a select list of the choicest named sorts now in 
 cultivation should be given : but such is the almost endless 
 multiplicity of kinds, and such the numerous additions every 
 year made, that in a few years those I may mention now as 
 being fine will then most probably be considered wholly 
 useless. However, for immediate profit and benefit, I re- 
 commend the following : — • 
 
 PURE WHITE. 
 
 Antagonist, 
 Ariel, 
 
 Blanche fleur, 
 Mount Blanc. 
 
 WHITE EDGED MOTTLED, OR TIPPED. 
 
 Barmaid, 
 Gem, 
 Malvina, 
 Miss Chaplin, 
 
 Miss Vyse, 
 Princess Radzville, 
 Star. 
 
 LILAC. 
 
 Admiral, 
 
 Joshua Longstreth, (Schmetz.) 
 
 Queen of Beauty, 
 
 Queen of Lilacs. 
 Victorine. 
 
 YELLOWS. 
 
 Cleopatra, 
 Crocus, 
 
 Mrs. Seldon, 
 Yellow Standard. 
 
 BUFP AND ORANGE, SHADED OR TIPPED. 
 
 Goliah, 
 
 Hon. Mr. Herbert, 
 
 Morning Star, 
 
 Seraph, 
 Tison d'or. 
 
106 ARRANGEMENT. [Mai/. 
 
 ORANGE SCARLET. 
 
 Duke of Wellington, Sir Eobert Peel. 
 
 Earl of Clarendon, 
 
 BRONZE PINK, MOTTLED OR SHADED. 
 
 Globe, Model. 
 
 General Faucher, 
 
 SCARLET. 
 
 Fulwood Scarlet, Shylock, 
 
 John Edward, Sir C. Napier. 
 
 CRIMSON. 
 
 Edmund Foster, Thames Bank Hero. 
 
 Sir F. Bathurst, 
 
 PURPLE. 
 
 Mr. Seldon, Summit of Perfectioa 
 
 Sir E. Whittingdon, 
 
 VERY DARK. 
 
 Admiral Stopford, Miss Spears, 
 
 Ambassador, Negro, 
 
 Hero of Stonehenge, Richard Cobden. 
 
 ORANGE YELLOW, TIPPED AND SHADED. 
 
 Eugenia, Madam Zhader. 
 
 FANCY DAHLIAS. 
 
 Elejrantissima, lilac, tipped and edged white. 
 Elizabeth, lilac, purple edged and tipped. 
 Empereur de Maroc, dark maroon, tipped with cherry. 
 Forget-me-not, crimson, edged and tipped white. 
 Gasperine, dark puce, tipped white. • 
 
MayJ] CHARACTER OF A FINE DAHLIA. 107 
 
 Highland Chief, orange scarlet, tipped white. 
 
 Nepaulese Chief, crimson, marbled and spotted. 
 
 Miss Ward, yellow, tipped white. 
 
 Miss Compton, red, tipped white. 
 
 Mrs. Hansard, yellow, frequently white tipped. 
 
 Mrs. Shaw Lefevre, crimson, tipped white. 
 
 Miss Weyland, pink, tipped white. 
 
 Mrs. Willis, crimson, tipped white. 
 
 Phaeton, peach colour, tipped white. 
 
 Pretty Polly, salmon, tipped white. 
 
 Princess Charlotte, pale purple, tipped white. 
 
 Queen of Beauties, white, marbled with lavender. 
 
 Rachael, crimson, tipped white. 
 
 Roi de Pointz, crimson, tipped white. 
 
 The above are the choicest in cultivation at the present 
 time, and for farther description in regard to colour, height, 
 and price, we beg to refer our readers to the periodical cata- 
 logues of our respectable nurserymen that are issued every 
 spring, and contain many other sorts of eminence ; and not 
 a few equally desirable with the above, though the descrip- 
 tions of some that are annually received from England are 
 more tempting than the article. Whether there are some 
 sorts that do produce more perfect and beautiful flowers in 
 their humid climate than they do when transferred to ours, 
 we cannot practically decide, but presume that it is the fact, 
 for we are confident, and every season does more fully con- 
 firm it, that the seedlings grown in this country from seed 
 sowed here do grow better, and flower finer, than the gene- 
 rality of those imported ; and, to prevent us adopting inferior 
 sorts, and giving them dashing names, we subjoin the follow- 
 ing rules for judging : — 
 
 CHARACTER OP A FINE DAHLIA. 
 
 " The best judges distinguish Dahlias by the three criteria 
 of form, colour, and size. 
 
 "1. Form. — The front view of the blossom should be 
 perfectly circular, without notches or inequalities, caused by 
 the petals being pointed, and not, as they should be, rounded ; 
 smooth at the ^iges, and slightly concave, but not so much 
 
108 ANNUALS, HARDY AND TENDER. [-^1"^- 
 
 513 to show any of the back. One of the most perfect 
 flowers, in this respect, is the Springfield Rival. When the 
 petals are pointed, notched, fringed, piped, quilled, concave, 
 convex, or flat, the perfectness of the circle is broken, and 
 one indispensable beauty in the eye of the florist is deficient. 
 
 '' When the eye or disk is shown in the full-blown flower, 
 it is also a striking defect. 
 
 " The side view of a first-rate flower should be that of a 
 perfect hemisphere. 
 
 " There is, perhaps, no example of this perfection of form 
 without some slight deficiency. The Countess of Liverpool 
 is one of the nearest to a perfect flower in this respect. 
 
 "2. Colour. — This is looked upon by florists as an inferior 
 consideration to form, though it is usually the first to attract 
 the notice of common observers. 
 
 " In flowers of one colour, or selfs, the colour ought to be 
 bright and distinct, without any breaking or blotching. 
 When there are stripes, mottlings, shadings, or edgings, 
 these should be clear and uniformly marked, the colours dis- 
 tinct without clouding or running. 
 
 " 3. Size. — Although large flowers with superior form 
 and clear distinct colours are esteemed superior to small 
 flowers with the same properties, yet size alone is looked 
 upon by florists as nothing when form and colour are defec- 
 tive.'' 
 
 Particular care should be taken with seeds, especially such 
 as are saved from fine sorts. If they are sown, about the 
 first of April, on a gentle hot-bed, or in a green-house in 
 plots, filled with light rich earth, cover the seeds about 
 three-eighths of an inch, and when they have made leaves, 
 pot them ofi" singly into small pots, till time for planting out, 
 or where a quantity is grown, three plants may be put into 
 one pot, and thus planted, and when they bloom the bad can 
 be pulled up, leaving those of good character to stand for 
 farther trial ; none should be kept but such as come up to 
 the above rules ; and if they do not do so the first year, there 
 is little hope of their being more perfect the second. 
 
 ANNUALS, HARDY AND TENDER. 
 
 By the first of the month, finish sowing all hardy Annuals 
 and Biennials ; and about the middle of the month all those 
 
May.'] ANEMONES AND RANUNCULUS. 109 
 
 that are tropical. The weather being now warm, they will 
 vegetate in a few days or weeks. Attend to thinning of those 
 that are too thick, giviug gentle watering to such as are 
 weak in dry weather. Those that have been protected in 
 frames should be fully exposed therein night and day ; take 
 the first opportunity of damp cloudy days to have them trans- 
 planted into the borders or beds, lifting them out of the frame 
 with as much earth as will adhere to their roots. 
 
 CARE OF HYACINTHS, TULIPS, ETC. 
 
 For the treatment of these, while in bloom, see last month. 
 The best time to take them out of the ground is about five 
 weeks after they are done flowering, or when the stem ap- 
 pears what may be termed half-decayed. The best method 
 to dry them is to place the roots in rows, with bulb to bulb, 
 the stems lying north and south, or east and west. Give the 
 bulbs a very thin covering of earth, merely to exclude the 
 sun, so that they may not dry too rapidly, being thereby 
 liable to become soft. When they have thoroughly dried in 
 this situation, which will be in eight or ten days in dry 
 weather (and if it rains, cover them with boards), take ttiem 
 to an airy dry loft or shade, clearing off the fibres or stems, 
 and in a few weeks put them in close drawers, or cover them 
 with sand perfectly dry, until the time of planting, for whicn 
 see October. 
 
 It is not advisable to allow any of the bulbs of either 
 Hyacinths or Tulips to seed, as it retards their ripening and 
 weakens the roots, except where there are a few desired for 
 new varieties. The small off-sets must be carefully kept in 
 dry sand, or immediately planted. 
 
 ANEMONES AND RANUNCULUS. 
 
 These, while in bloom, should be carefully shaded from tha 
 sun by hoops and thin canvass, or an erect temporary awnmg; 
 and as soon as they are done flowering, they must be fuUj 
 exposed and tlie waterings given up. 
 10 
 
110 DOUBLE WALL-FLOWERS. [Ma^ 
 
 TUBEROSES AND AMARYLLIS, 
 
 That are not planted, should now be done. For full di- 
 rections, see last month. In many seasons, any time be- 
 fore the twelfth is quite soon enough ; but nothing ought to 
 be delayed when the season will permit it to be done. It is 
 necessary to have them properly labelled. 
 
 AURICULAS, POLYANTHUS, AND PRIMROSES 
 
 Will now be done flowering, but still must be carefully 
 kept in a cool, shady situation, and all decayed leaves cut 
 off as soon as they appear. Examine them carefully and 
 frequently, in case slugs of any description be preying upon 
 them. A dusting of hot lime will kill them, or they may be 
 otherwise destroyed. Some have recommended to repot and 
 slip those plants when done flowering, " or they will contract 
 a destructive disease ;" which disease is a loss of verdure, and 
 is induced by too much heat and drought, and a few other 
 causes from inattention ; but if attended to as above, until 
 September, when they should be fresh potted, they will have 
 time to be sufficiently established before winter, which is the 
 most judicious time to take off slips, for two reasons, namely, 
 they do not want so much nursing through the most preca- 
 rious season of the year (summer) for these plants, and they 
 begin to grow, and will root afresh sooner. 
 
 DOUBLE WALL-FLOWERS. 
 
 As these are very seldom grown from seed, and are semi- 
 biennials, art has to be used to preserve or renew them. 
 About the end of this month, take shoots of this year about 
 three inches long, cutting them carefully off, and smoothing 
 the cut end with a sharp knife : from this, cut the lower 
 leaves off about one inch and a half, and then put it in the 
 ground; choose a very shady spot, mixing the soil with a 
 little sand and earth, or decayed leaves. Sprinkle them 
 three times a day until they have taken root, which will be 
 in a few weeks. Keep the cuttings about four inches apart. 
 
JuneyJuly.'] autumn flowering bulbs. Ill 
 
 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 We do not consider that it is essential every month to re- 
 peat the necessity of tying xx^j plants, cutting down weeds, 
 raking, &c., with many other similar observations. We have 
 already been full on these subjects, and expect these to be 
 remembered through the season. Particular care, however, 
 is required to carnations, pinks, or any plants that have heavy 
 heads and slender stems. If carnations are desired to flower 
 strongly, cut ofi" all the buds except three, leaving the upper- 
 most and any other two of the largest. All climbing plants 
 should have timely support, and tied securely every week 
 while they are growing. 
 
 JUNE AND JULY. 
 
 HOLLAND BULBS. 
 
 The lifting of these will be general in June. For direc- 
 tions, see May. It is not advisable to take up Jonquils, 
 Fritilldria, Crocus, and Iris, oftener than every alternate 
 year. Jonquils may stand three years. Anemones and 
 Ranunculus should be carefully lifted after their leaves begin 
 to fade. Do not expose them to the sun, but cover slightly 
 with earth or sand until they are perfectly dry, when they 
 may be sifted out of the earth, and put into drawers carefully 
 labelled. Some recommend to soak these roots in soap-suds, 
 to destroy a worm with which they are frequently attacked. 
 We know not how far this may be carried, nor the good or 
 bad effects, never having practised it. 
 
 AUTUMN FLOWERING BULBS. 
 
 These are Amaryllis littea, now called Sternhergia lutea; 
 A. Belladdnna, now Belladonna purpurdscens ; Crocus satU 
 vur, C. Palldsii C. serotinus, and C. midijflorus, and all the 
 
112 CARNATIONS AND PINKS. [June, July. 
 
 species of Colchicum, with species of several other genera not 
 introduced into the country. They should all be lifted as 
 soon as the foliage is decayed, and kept only a few weeks out 
 of the ground, and then again replanted in fresh soil. The 
 economy of the genus Colchicum in regard to its bulbs, 
 flowers, and seeds, is altogether singular, and may be termed 
 an anomaly of nature. In producing the new bulbs or oif- 
 sets, in a very curious manner the old one perishes. The 
 flowers, which arise with long slender tubes from the root, die 
 off in October, without leaving any external appearance of 
 seeds. These lie buried all the winter within the bulb ; in 
 spring they throw up a fruit-stalk, and are ripe about the first 
 of June. How beautiful and admirable is this provision ! 
 The plant blooming so late in the year would not have time 
 to mature its seeds before winter; and is, therefore, so con- 
 trived that it may be performed out of the reach of the usual 
 effects of frost, and they are brought above the surface when 
 perfected, and at a proper season for sowing. 
 
 CARNATIONS ANr ^INKS. 
 
 In order to make the former flower well, if the weather is 
 dry, give them frequent waterings at the root, and tie them 
 up neatly to their rods. The criterion of a fine Carnation 
 is — The stem strong and straight, from thirty to forty inches 
 high ; the corolla three inches in diameter, consisting of 
 large, round, well-formed petals, but not so many as to crowd 
 it, nor so few as to make it appear thin or empty ; the out- 
 side petals should rise above the calyx about half an inch, 
 and then turn off in a horizontal direction, to support the 
 interior petals, they forming nearly a hemispherical corolla. 
 The interior petals should decrease in size toward the centre, 
 all regularly disposed on every side ; they should have a small 
 degree of concavity at the lamina or broad end, the edges 
 perfectly entire. The calyx above one inch in length, with 
 strong broad points in a close and circular body. The colours 
 must be perfectly distinct, disposed in regular long stripes, 
 broadest at the edge of the lamina, and gradually becoming 
 narrower as they approach the unguis or base of the petal, 
 there terminating in a fine point. Those that contain two 
 colours upon a white ground are esteemed the finest. 
 
June, July.'] LAYING CARNATIONS AND PINK8. 115 
 
 The criterion of a double pink. — The stem about twelve 
 inches, the calyx smaller, but similar to a carnaticn; the 
 flower two inches and a half in diameter ; petals rose edges ; 
 colour white and pure purple, or rich crimson ; the nearer it 
 approaches to black the more is it esteemed; proportions 
 equal as in carnation. Those that are very tasteful with 
 these flowers are attentive to the manner of their opening. 
 Where the calyx is deficient in regular expansion, to display 
 the petals ; that is, where there is a tendency to burst open 
 on one side more than on the other, the opposite side in two 
 or three diff"erent. indentations should be slit a little, at 
 several times, with the point of a small sharp knife, taking 
 care not to cut the petals, and about the centre of the calyx 
 tie a thread three or four times round to prevent any further 
 irregularity. Some florists and connoisseurs place cards on 
 them. This is done when the calyx is small. Take a piece 
 of thin pasteboard, about the size of a dollar, cut a small 
 aperture in its centre to admit the bud to pass through. 
 When on, tie it tight to the rod, to prevent the wind from 
 blowing it about; and when the flower is expanded, draw up 
 the card to about the middle of the calyx, and spread the 
 petals one over the other regularly upon it. When these 
 plants are in flower, their beauty may be prolonged by giving 
 them a little shade from the mid-day sun by an awning of 
 any simple description. Where they are in pots, they can 
 be removed to a cool shady situation (but not directly under 
 trees). 
 
 OF LAYING CARNATIONS AND PINKS. 
 
 This is a necessary and yearly operation to keep a supply 
 of plants, and likewise to have them always in perfection. 
 As the process of laying, though simple, may not be known 
 to all who are desirous of cultivating these plants, we will 
 give an outline of the mode of operation. Provide first a 
 quantity of small hooked twigs (pieces of Asparagus stems 
 are very suitable), about three inches long, for pegging the 
 layers down in the earth. Select the outward, strongest and 
 lowest shoots that are round the plant; trim ofi" a few of the 
 under leaves, and shorten the top ones even with the knife, 
 and then applying it at a joint about the middle of the under 
 10* 
 
114 OF BUDDING, ETC. [June, July. 
 
 Bide of the shoot, cut about half through in a slanting direc- 
 tion, making an upward slit toward the next joint, near an 
 inch in extent; and loosening the earth, make a small oblong 
 cavity one or two inches deep, putting a little fresh light 
 earth therein. Lay the stem p irt where the slit is made 
 into the earth, keeping the cut part open, and the head of 
 the layer upright one or two inches out of the earth ; and in 
 that position peg down the layer with one of the hooked 
 twigs, and cover the inserted part to the depth of one inch 
 with some of the fresh earth, pressing it gently down. In 
 this manner proceed to lay all the proper shoots of each 
 plant. Keep the earth a little full around the plant, to 
 retain longer the water that may be applied. Give imme- 
 diately a moderate watering, with a rose watering-pot, and 
 in dry weather give light waterings every evening. Choose 
 a cloudy day for the above operation. In about two months 
 they will be well rooted. 
 
 OP BUDDING OR INOCULATION OF ROSES. 
 
 According to what we have previously hinted in regard 
 to having roses as standards, where such are desired, the 
 month of July or August is a proper time for the operation 
 of budding. The kinds to be taken for stocks should be of 
 a strong, free growth ; such as Manitta, Maiden's blush, R. 
 canina, and frequently the French Eglantine are taken. Be 
 provided with a proper budding-knife, which has a sharp, 
 thin blade, adapted to prepare the bud, with a tapering ivory 
 haft, made thin at the end, for raising the bark of the stock. 
 For tyings, use bass strings from Russian mats, which should 
 be soaked in water to make them more pliable. The height 
 of the stock or stem at which the bud is to be inserted, is to 
 be determined by the intended destination of the tree (as it 
 may be properly called). Choose a smooth part of the stem, 
 from one to three years old. Having marked the place, 
 prune away all the lateral shoots about and underneath it. 
 With the knife directed horizontally, make an incision about 
 half an inch long in the bark of the stock, cutting to the 
 wood, but not deeper ; then applying the point of the knifo 
 to the middle of this line, make a perpendicular incision 
 under the first, extending from it between one and two inches. 
 
June, July.'] OF budding, etc. 115 
 
 Having a healthy shoot of the rii'owth of this year provided 
 of the kind that is desired, begin at the lower end of this 
 shoot, cut away all the leaves, 'caving the footstalk of each. 
 Being fixed on a promising bud, insert the knife about half 
 an inch above the eye, slanting it downward, and about half 
 through the shoot. Draw it out about an inch below the 
 eye, so as to bring away the bud unimpaired with the bark, 
 and part of the wood adhering to it; the wood now must be 
 carefully detached from the b?rk. To do this, insert the 
 point of the knife between the bark and wood at one end, 
 and, holding the bark tenderly, strip off the woody part, 
 which will readily part from the bark, if the shoot from 
 which the piece is taken has been properly imbued with 
 sap.* Look at the inner rind of the separated bark, to see 
 if that be entire ; if there be a hole in it the eye of the bud 
 has been pulled away with the wood, rendering the bud use- 
 less, which throw away ; if there be no hole, return to the 
 stock, and with the haft of the knife gently raise the bark 
 on each side of the perpendicular incision, opening the lips 
 wide enough to admit the prepared slip with the eye. If the 
 slip is longer than the upright incision in the stock, reduce 
 the largest end. Stock and bud being ready, keep the latter 
 in its natural position ; introduce it between the bark and 
 wood of the stock, pushing it gently downward until it 
 reaches the bottom of the perpendicular incision. Let the 
 eye of the bud project through the centre of the lips ; lay 
 the slip with the bud as smooth as possible, and press down 
 the raised bark of the stock. The bud being deposited, bind 
 that part of the stock moderately tight with bass, beginning 
 a little below the incision, proceeding upward so as to keep 
 the eye uncovered, finishing above tlie incision. In a month 
 after the operation, examine whether the bud has unitea 
 with the stock. If it has succeeded, the bud will be full 
 and fresh ; if not, it will be brown and contracted. When 
 it has taken, untie the bandage, that the bud may swell, and 
 in a few days afterwards cut the head of the stock off about 
 
 * We once budded three eyes of the white moss rose, after they 
 had, by mistake, been carried in the pocket of a coat three days. 
 The shoot was soaked six hours in water, and two of the buds grew. 
 From this we infer that shoots, if properly wrapped up, may be 
 carried very great distances, and grow successfully. 
 
116 EVERGREEN HEDGES. lAugusi. 
 
 six inches above the inoculation, and prevent all shoots from 
 growing by pinching them off. This will forward the bud, 
 which will push and ripen wood this season ; but it must be 
 carefully tied, as it grows, to the remaining head of the stock. 
 Some do not head down the stock until the following spring, 
 thereby not encouraging the bud to grow, which, if winter 
 sets in early, is the safest method. 
 
 OF WATERING. 
 
 If the season be dry, look over the lately planted shrubs, 
 and give them frequent copious waterings ; and a few of the 
 finest annuals that are wanted to flower perfectly should be 
 attended to. We do confess that we used to be advocates 
 for giving plenty of water to the Dahlia, but the severe 
 drought of 1838 put our science to the test, and the result 
 ■was, that of about one hundred plants of our most choice 
 kinds, which we regularly watered three times a week, for 
 nine weeks, during which period we had not a drop of rain, 
 the plants grew luxuriantly, but many of them never pro- 
 duced a perfect bloom ; and those that had no attention 
 whatever paid to them, except a little manure or litter laid 
 on the surface over the roots, flowered almost as well as in oux 
 more moist seasons. Hence we infer that an occasional water- 
 ing may be of service, but continued and repeated artificial 
 ■waterings are injurious. 
 
 AUGUST. 
 
 EVERGREEN HEDGES. 
 
 These always make two growths in the season, and the 
 best time to perform the operation of clipping or dressing 
 them is before the plants begin their second growth. Choose, 
 if possible, dull and cloudy days, as in such weather they 
 will not be so liable to get brown or bruised by shearing. 
 The general practice in forming these is to have the sides 
 
August."] BULBOUS roots. 117 
 
 even and the top level, forming a right angle on each side. 
 However neat in appearance this may be considered, it 
 certainly is stiflF and formal. We never approve of clippiog 
 where it can be avoided, and, when adopted, nature ought to 
 be imitated. Therefore, have all hedges and edgings tapering 
 toward the top. 
 
 CARNATIONS AND PINKS, 
 
 If laid about the end of June, and have been properly 
 attended, will, by the end of this month, be well rotted and 
 fit for transplanting. Clear away the earth lightly, and cut 
 them clean ofi" from the parent plaut, nearer the stool than 
 the original slit. Raise them neatly out of the earth, with 
 as many of the root-fibres as possible ; cut oiF the naked part 
 of the stem close to the fibrous roots, and trim away the 
 straggling leaves. Plant the finest sorts in four-inch pots, 
 and those more common, three plants in five-inch pots, in the 
 form of a triangle, which can be separated in spring to plant 
 in the garden. Any of the principal stools should be (if in 
 the ground) lifted and put into seven-inch pots to be preserved : 
 the others may be allowed to stand through the winter, cover- 
 ing them with a few dry leaves. Keep them in the shade a 
 few weeks, when they may be fully exposed. Give gentle and 
 frequent sprinklings of water until they have taken fresh root ; 
 or, if in want of pots, mark out a bed that can be covered with 
 a frame, preparing the soil therein properly. Plant them 
 from four to six inches apart. Shade them from the sun until 
 they begin to grow, giving sprinklings of water over the foliage 
 every evening. 
 
 BULBOUS ROOTS. 
 
 Look over the bulbs that are out of the ground, and exa- 
 mine those that require planting. Of Fritillaria there are 
 about twenty species, but few of them generally cultivated, 
 except F. imperidlifi, Crown Imperial, and F. persica. Of 
 the former there are many very splendid varieties, such as 
 Croicn iipon croicn, Litiea Maxima, Striped leaved, Double 
 /lowered, &c. These will require planting, and ought not to 
 
118 DAHLIAS. iSepfeniber. 
 
 be lifted oftener than every third j'ear. They require a deep, 
 rich, loamy soil, and, if in beds, plant them from five to 
 seven inches deep, and one foot apart. They will grow 
 under the shade of trees, or in any situation where the soil is 
 adapted for them. No imbricated or scaly bulb ought to be 
 retained long out of the g'-ound. When any of these are 
 lifted, and the young bulbs taken off, they should be planted 
 at once. See particularly, on bulbous roots in general, next 
 month. 
 
 SOWING SEEDS 3F BULBOUS ROOTS. 
 
 Where any seeds of these are saved, with the intention of 
 sowing, let it be done this month. Procure boxes about 
 seven inches deep, and, in size, proportioned to the quantity 
 to be sown. Put five inches of light, sandy soil in the box, 
 level it smoothly, and sow the seeds separately and thickly ; 
 cover with half an inch of light sandy loam, with a portion 
 of earth from the woods. Keep the box or boxes in a shel- 
 tered situation, giving frequent sprinklings of water, to keep 
 the earth damp, which must be protected with a frame, or 
 covered with leaves during winter. The plants will appear 
 in the spring, and must be watered and kept in the shade. 
 When the leaves decay in June, put one inch more soil upon 
 them, and the second year they can be planted with the 
 small off-sets in the garden, and treated as other bulbs. They 
 must be carefully marked every year. Tulips require several 
 years of trial before their qualities are known ; and a poor 
 soil is best suited to produce their characters after the first 
 bloom. 
 
 SEPTEMBER. 
 
 OF DAHLIAS. 
 
 See that all these plants are supported with proper stakes, 
 rods, &c., that the wind may have no effect in breaking down 
 
September^'] general observations. 119 
 
 or otherwise destroying the flower-stems. Strictly observe 
 their respective heights and colours, that they may be duly 
 disposed and interspersed next year, if not done so this. 
 Attend particularly to the merits of those grown from seed. 
 
 GENERAL CARE OF PLANTS IN POTS. 
 
 All the flowers that are in pots, and intended to be kept in 
 frames during winter, should have a top-dressing and a gene- 
 ral preparation for their winter quarters, by tying up, &c. 
 The carnation and pink layers that were lifted and potted 
 last month must be brought from the shade as soon as they 
 begin to grow ; and those that are not lifted, have them done 
 forthwith, that they may be rooted afresh befoi-e the frost 
 sets in. All Wall-flowei"s and Stocks should be lifted about 
 the end of this month, and planted in five to seven-inch pots, 
 and treated as directed for carnation layers last month until 
 they begin to grow, when they must be fully exposed. 
 
 PREPARING BEDS AND BORDERS FOR BULBOUS. ROOTS. 
 
 Bulbous roots of every character delight in deep free soil ; 
 consequently, wherever they are desired to be planted, duo 
 attention must be paid to put the soil in proper order, to 
 have them in perfection. Where there is a quantity in^ 
 tended to be planted, to have them in beds is the general 
 and preferable method. These ought to be dug from eight- 
 een inches to two feet deep, at the bottom of which place 
 three or four inches of decayed manure. Where the soil 
 is poor, it should be enriched with well-decomposed manure 
 and earth from the woods, incorporating both well with the 
 soil, breaking it all fine. This being done, allow it to stand 
 until the middle of next month, which see for farther 
 directions. 
 
 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 Tie up carefully all the Chrysdntliemums, Tuberoses, &c. 
 Clear away the stems or haum of any decayed annuals or 
 
120 or PLANTING, ETC. [October. 
 
 herbaceous plants, that nothing unsightly may appear. Pro- 
 pagate the Pansy by layers, &c. See page 95. 
 
 SOWING AND SAVING SEEDS. 
 
 About the end of this month or beginning of next is an 
 advisable period to sow seed of Delphinium Ajdcis fibre 
 pUno, or Double Rocket Larkspur. This plant does not 
 flower in perfection unless sown in autumn, and grown a 
 little above ground before winter ; when a few leaves can be 
 lightly thrown among them, but not to cover them entirely, 
 or a few branches thickly laid on will answer as well. There 
 are several other annuals that bloom more early and much 
 finer by being sown about this period ; such as Erysirtnmi, 
 Gilia, Coredp>sis, Centaurea, Cldrkia, CoUinsia, &c. Be 
 attentive in collecting and saving all kinds of seeds, and have 
 them correctly named, with the year in which they were 
 grown. 
 
 The finer kinds of Pansy seeds that may have been collect- 
 ed during the season, should now be sown in a rich, free, 
 loamy soil, and in a situation where they can be covered dur- 
 ing winter with a temporary frame of boards ; although they 
 are perfectly hardy, yet they will bloom earlier and more 
 superb in the spring by having a slight protection. 
 
 OCTOBER. 
 
 OP PLANTING VARIOUS BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS ROOTS. 
 
 From the first of October to the middle of November is 
 the best period for a general planting of bulbs, corms, and 
 tubers, which, if the ground has been prepared, as formerly 
 directed, will now be in readiness. We will give the names 
 and descriptions of a few of the leading soi'ts. 
 
 Anemone liortensis. — The cultivation of this tuber has 
 been attended with less satisfaction than any other floral 
 plant that has been introduced into this country. The gene- 
 
October.'] CROCUS — HYACINTHS. 121 
 
 ral faihire may, in part, be attributed to the very inferior 
 roots annually sent from Holland, which rarely arrive in 
 good order; and those that do grow are very discouraging, 
 never making a tuber sufficient for another year's planting. 
 Several hundred varieties are cultivated in England with great 
 care and complete success. They are planted in a deep rich 
 soil, using a considerable portion of cow manure and decom- 
 posed leaves, covering the crowns of the roots about two 
 inches. The tubes are flat, but the eye from whence the 
 flower-stem arises is apparent on one of the sides, which must 
 be laid uppermost. During the severity of winter they should 
 be protected by a frame, and have a sprinkling of very dry 
 leaves strewn among them. 
 
 Crocus. — There are upwards of one hundred varieties of 
 this vernal flower in cultivation, attended with universal suc- 
 cess. They delight in rich soils, and may either be planted 
 in beds or rows, at least two inches deep, and six inches from 
 row to row — they seldom require removal ; every three or 
 four years will be sufficient. They can be purchased at from 
 seventy-five cents to two dollars per hundred, according to 
 quality. When they are done blooming, the foliage should 
 not be removed till perfectly decayed. 
 
 Fritilldrla, or Crown Imperial. See last month. 
 
 Hyacinths. — The ground that was prepared for these last 
 month should all be divided into beds four feet wide, leaving 
 between each alleys of twenty inches. Skim off" four or five 
 inches of the surface of the former into the latter, level the 
 bed smoothly with the rake, and mark it off" in rows eight 
 inches apart. Plant the roots in the row eight inches asunder. 
 Thus they will be in squares, and by planting the diff"erent 
 colours, alternately, the bed will be beautifully diversified. 
 Cover each bulb with sand, when it can be procured. Put 
 about four inches of earth over the crowns, which will make 
 the beds from two to three inches higher than the alleys. The 
 beds before and after planting should be gently rounded from 
 the middle to each side, to let the rain pass off". Finish all 
 by raking evenly, straighten the edgings with the line, and 
 clear out the alleys or pathways. 
 
 We have grown Hyacinths in great perfection, when, in 
 addition to the above, we covered them with two to three 
 inches of cow manure. The Dutch florists name nearly two 
 thousand varieties of this flower, and have large fields de- 
 voted to their culture When the double varieties were first 
 II 
 
122 P^ONIAS. [ October. 
 
 brought into notice, they sold at from one to two thousand 
 guilders a root (about from four to eight hundred dollars). 
 The finer kinds can be purchased at from two to four dollars 
 per dozen. 
 
 Iris, or Fleur de luce. — The English and Parisian Irises 
 are coming into repute as showy garden-flowers. They will 
 grow in any well-prepared soil, and require to be planted in 
 the same manner as the tulip. 
 
 Jonquils. — Double and single. Plant these in the same 
 soil as Tulips, six inches apart, and cover three inches deep. 
 They do not flower so well the first year as in the second and 
 third, therefore should only be lifted every third year. 
 
 Lilium. — The family of Lilies are all splendid, very inte- 
 resting, and easy of culture, requiring merely a good deep 
 loamy soil — nowise inclined to moisture. They are all 
 hardy, except L. japbnicum and L. longifibrum, which we 
 lift in November, and again plant them about the first of 
 March, keeping them through the winter in dry sand, in a 
 cellar free from frost. The hardy kinds, deserving most 
 attention, are L. Cdndidum (the double variety of it is not 
 worth growing), L. Chalceddnicuni and its varieties, L. Ti- 
 yrinum, L. Concolor, and L. Mdrtagon ) these, with the 
 species indigenous to this country, are all very beautiful. 
 They should be planted from three to five inches deep, accord- 
 ing to the size of the bulb, and need not be taken up oftener 
 than once in every three or four years. None of the species 
 can be transplanted after they have grown, without injuring 
 their flowering. 
 
 Narcissus require treatment similar to the Lily, except the 
 soil, which must be richer, and even then they do not bloom 
 so finely in a few years as they do when first imported ; but 
 they are cheap, and can annually be procured. 
 
 Pcebnias are' all magnificent in flower, and, for display, are 
 not surpassed by any spring-blooming plant ; and we do cheer- 
 fully urge our readers to cultivate the choice sorts, which can 
 scarcely be said to have a rival. Such are — 
 
 P. Moutdn Bdnksii, common double blush tree Paeonia. 
 P. Moutdn papaverdcea, single white tree Paeonia, with pur- 
 ple centre. 
 P. Moutdn rosea, large rose, semi-double tree Paeonia 
 P. Moutdn odor dta, sweet-scented, rose-coloured tree Pseonia. 
 P. Moutdn albida pleno, double white tree Paeonia. 
 
Octooer.'] TULIPS. 123 
 
 The following are Herbaceous P^onias : — 
 
 P. edulis alhijlbra, single white. 
 
 P. edulis ivhideji, superb double white. 
 
 P. edidis ITumei, very large double rose. 
 
 P. edulis frdgrans, double red, sweet-scented. 
 
 P. edidis Beevesiana, Chinese double purple crimson. 
 
 P. edulis Pottsii, double blush, very distinct. 
 
 P. odordta, double lilac. 
 
 P. mutabilis, double rose, changing to blush. 
 
 P. anemonejiora, double dark crimson, very distinct. 
 
 P. officinalis r libra, common double. 
 
 P. officinalis atropurpiirea, very dark crimson. 
 
 P. officindlis albicans, changeable white rose, or blush. 
 
 There are several other splendid double varieties in our 
 collections, which have not yet bloomed in this country. 
 There are also a few very choice single kinds that are desira- 
 ble for growing to raise new sorts from ; for it is from the 
 single species that the Chinese have been so successful in 
 procuring the magnificent double varieties, which are so anx- 
 iously and perseveringly sought for. The seeds mature well 
 in this country, and should be sown as soon as ripe ; they 
 will vegetate the following spring, and in three years may be 
 expected to bloom. The Pasony will grow in any rich, 
 loamy soil, which should be at least fifteen inches deep. An 
 eastern situation or aspect is best adapted for them in this 
 latitude ; but in the more Southern States, they will display 
 their flowers better on a northern aspect, or where they will 
 be shaded from the sun, but not under the dripping of trees. 
 The most suitable time for planting them is in September, 
 October, or November. Spring-planted roots never succeed 
 well the first year. Paeony moutan and its varieties are all 
 of a shrubby nature, and will grow into large bushes, pro- 
 ducing from fifty to one hundred blooms of not less than 
 fifteen inches in circumference ; they can be propagated by 
 division of the root, or by layers. 
 
 Tulii^s. — ^As this flower will soon be a decided favourite 
 over this mighty country, we will give a minute description 
 of the soil most genial to it, at the same time remarking that 
 it will grow in almost any soil or situation, though less per- 
 fect. Many of the kinds are of the most splendid colours and 
 
124 TULIPS. r October. 
 
 strong in growth, frequently growing over three feet in 
 height, with cups sufficiently large to satisfy the greatest 
 Bacchus. All writers agree that Tulip beds should bo 
 " four feet wide ;" though I think three and a half will be 
 found more convenient, and, in length, according to the 
 number of roots to be planted. The soil should consist of 
 good fresh loam, mixed with a small portion of well-rotted 
 stable-manure, at least two years old. The whole should be 
 incorporated together four months previous to using. The 
 common soil should be taken out sixteen inches deep, and 
 filled with the above compost. Raise the beds not less than 
 three inches above the paths at the outside, and about six or 
 eight inches in the middle ; this convexity will assist in 
 throwing off the water in times of heavy and continued rains. 
 The bed thus formed, plant the bulbs in rows, lengthwise on 
 the bed, about six inches from bulb to bulb, and seven inches 
 from row to row. The bed may be marked out by straining 
 a line very tight, lengthwise on the bed, and beating it with 
 the back of the spade, leaving a lined groove along the ground. 
 Then, with a lath four feet long, let the bed be marked across 
 at six inches distance, so as to leave distinct impressions at 
 each crossing of the ground-lines; for these will form the 
 spots where the bulbs are to be planted, by means of a dibber, 
 made larger than the largest bulb, and flattened at the end. 
 The holes are to be made four inches deep, and about half an 
 inch of sharp sand ought to be dropped in each. The centre 
 line ought to be planted with the tallest kinds, and the out- 
 side of the bed with the lowest. In severe frosts they should 
 be protected by boards or branches. Tulips have ever been 
 held in the highest estimation. As early as 1637 history 
 records one hundred and twenty Tulips being sold at public 
 auction for no less a sum than nine thousand guilders, equal to 
 thirty-six hundred dollars; and in England, at the present 
 day, a good collection is valued at five thousand dollars. 
 Ploi'ists generally divide them into three classes, viz., first, 
 Byhloemens, such as have a white ground, variegated with 
 purple, as Blenfait, or Washington, &c. ; secondly, Bizarres, 
 having a yellow ground variegated with scarlet, purple, rose, 
 or velvet, as Trafalgar, Due cle Savoie, &c. ; and, thirdly, 
 Roses with white ground, variegated with rose, scarlet, or 
 crimson, as La Tendresse, Rose mignonne, &c. 
 
October.'] GRASS and gravel-walks. 125 
 
 The superb kinds are often very expensive; even fifty 
 pounds sterling is frequently given for a single bulb ; and we 
 doubt much if these high-priced kinds are finer than Washing- 
 ton, Mllo, or Trafalgar, which, with many others, can bo pro- 
 cured for less than one dollar each. 
 
 PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING. 
 
 This is a very proper period to plant the beautiful and 
 early flowering Pyrus japdnica, now called Ci/donia japo- 
 nica. The blossoms are of a rich scarlet colour. It is the 
 earliest flowering shrub of the garden, and deciduous, though 
 said by some to be " an evergreen." The plant is bushy, 
 and well adapted for single plants in grass-plats, or forming 
 low ornamental hedges. There is likewise C. j. alba, a tine 
 blush variety of the same habit, and both are of the hardiest 
 nature. 
 
 Double Primroses, Polyanthus, Daisies, &c. — Any of these 
 that were planted in shaded situations in spring, and have 
 been preserved through the summer, should have for their 
 farther protection a bed well sheltered from the north-west, in 
 which they should be planted four inches apart. Give them 
 a few sprinklings of water in the morning, and have a tempo- 
 rary frame of rough boards put together to place over them 
 during the severity of winter. The frame may be covered with 
 the same in place of glass, which must be kept over them 
 while they are in a frozen state. 
 
 Any other plants that are in the ground, which are intended 
 to be protected with frames through the winter, ought to be 
 immediately lifted and potted, and treated as directed for all 
 new-potted plants. 
 
 GRASS AND GRAVEL-WALKS. 
 
 The former should be trimly cut and well rolled this 
 month, that they may appear neat all winter. Never allow 
 decayed leaves to lie any time upon them, as they are apt to 
 rot out the grass. The latter should be divested of every 
 weed, and receive a firm rolling. Clear them at all times of 
 leaves and other litter. These, if on a declivity, and have 
 11* 
 
126 DAHLIAS. iNbvemder. 
 
 not a firm substantial bottom, will be subject to be cut up 
 with every heavy rain. A break should be put in every 
 twenty, forty, or eighty feet, to throw off the water. A 
 strong plank will answer perfectly well, but in such situations 
 we would prefer grass-walks. 
 
 PLANTING EVERGREENS. 
 
 This month is the best period in autumn to plant these 
 shrubs ; and where there is a great extent to be planted, it 
 would be advisable to do a part of it now; but we give the 
 preference to April, which see for directions. 
 
 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 When the plantings of bulbs, &c., are finished, every part 
 of the garden should have a thorough cleaning. All annual 
 flowers will have passed the season of their beauty ; therefore, 
 remove the decayed flower-stems or Laum, and trim off the 
 borders. Dig all vacant ground, especially that intended to 
 be planted with shrubs in the ensuing spring, which ought to 
 be dug from one to two feet deep. 
 
 NOVEMBER. 
 
 DAHLIAS. 
 
 It is not advisable to delay lifting the roots of the Dahlia 
 after the first of the month, as frequently severe frosts set 
 in about this period, and would totally destroy them. Choose 
 a dry day for the purpose, and with a spade carefully lift 
 every root, divesting it of any earth that may adhere there- 
 to, but not to shake it off, as thereby the neck of the tubers 
 would be bruised, and probably entirely destroy the vitality of 
 the plant for the coming season. With us, the frost generally 
 destroys the foliage and stems of the plants from about the 
 
November.} erythrinas. 127 
 
 middle of October to the beginning of the present month. 
 The stems should then be cut to within a few inches of the 
 ground, when the roots should be lifted directly thereafter, 
 and the labels properly secured to them with metallic wire. 
 Many opinions are given for the best method of securing 
 them during winter from the effects of frost, which is their 
 certain destruction. In this country, a dry close cellar, that 
 will retain a temperature of not less than thirty-five degrees, 
 and not over forty-five, will be the most proper place : if the 
 tubers are small, they should be covered with dry sand or 
 earth. The method we have adopted with our finest kinds, 
 which has retulted in complete success, is to lay dry boards 
 on the cellar floor, and place the roots closely thereon, cover- 
 ing them to the stem with dry sand, laying mats over all : 
 in this manner they preserve till spring in the most perfect 
 order. They can also be kept in a cool green-house ; but 
 must be protected from drippings of water falling upon 
 them. 
 
 TUREROSES, TIGRIDIAS, AND AMARYLLIS. 
 
 These tubers and bulbs, as soon as the frost has partly in- 
 jured the foliage, should be taken up, and dried thoroughly 
 in the sun, taking care, at all times, to keep them clear from 
 frost. When they are dry, divest them of their foliage and 
 fibres, and pack them in boxes with dry sand or moss. Store 
 these away for the winter, either in a room or a dry cellar, 
 where they will at all times be exempt from frost, the least 
 touch of which would destroy them. We have kept them 
 completely secure in the cellar. 
 
 ERYTHRINAS. 
 
 Where there are any plants of E. Jierhacea, E. laurifblia, 
 and E. crista-giilla, which are intended to bo lifted, they 
 should be carefully done and preserved in half-dry eartb, and 
 kept beside the Dahlias They are magnificent ornaments in 
 the flower-garden. 
 
128 CHOICE CARNATIONS, ETC. [November. 
 
 PRIMROSES, POLYANTHUS, AND DAISIES, 
 
 That were planted in a sheltered spot, as directed last 
 month, should have a frame placed over them, and their 
 covering in readiness for the approach of winter; giving the 
 plants a light covering of leaves, which will preserve their 
 foliage from the effects of frost. 
 
 CHOICE CARNATIONS, PINKS, PANSIES, AND AURICULAS, 
 
 That are in pots, should be placed in the frame intended 
 for their abode during winter. If the pots are plunged to 
 the rims in dry leaves or sawdust, it will greatly protect their 
 roots from the severe effects of frost. Where glass is used 
 for these frames, they should have besides a covering of 
 boards or straw mats ; those that are in beds may be covered 
 as above directed for Primroses, &c. 
 
 They ought not to be uncovered while in a frozen state. 
 It is not altogether the intensity of cold that destroys these 
 plants so much as the alternate thawing and freezing. 
 
 All half-hardy plants, such as Wall-flower, German stocks, 
 Sweet-hay, tender roses, with several others, should be 
 protected as above directed for Carnations. Earth or tan 
 should be put round the outside of these frames, which will 
 be a partial shelter from the changing state of the atmo- 
 sphere. Oak leaves answer the purpose very well, but they 
 are a harbour for all kinds of vermin, especially rats and 
 mice, which WDuld destroy everything. It may be useful 
 to say a few words on the nature of tan or tanners' bark. 
 Many suppose that the smallest quantity will produce heat. 
 If three or four cart-loads of it are put into one heap, and 
 protected from the rain, it will ferment ; and when the first 
 fermentation is abated, by mixing it with leaves, a substan- 
 tial hot-bed may be made, or put it by itself into a pit ; and 
 when there is no pit, boards may be substituted to keep it 
 together : either of these methods will produce a lasting 
 heat. But in small quantities, and exposed to rain, &c., no 
 heat will be produced, but rather the contrary. It is excel- 
 lent, when dry, in keeping out frost from any plants ; being 
 a body not easily penetrated, similar to dry sand, sawdust, 
 
November.^ of planting, etc. 129 
 
 or dry leaves. Frequently the same opinion is held in re- 
 gard to stable manure, small portions of which will never 
 produce heat. 
 
 OF PROTECTING PLANTS IN THE GARDEN. 
 
 Dunng this or next month, according to the state of the 
 season, protect all the plants that are in the ground, which 
 are not completely hardy. The coverings may be straw, 
 Russia mats, canvass, boxes or barrels. The latter two must 
 be perforated in the top, to let the damp air pass off, or the 
 plant would become musty and decay. Those covered with 
 straw or mats should have small stakes placed round the 
 plants, aad covering tied thereto, and remain so until the 
 month of March or first of April. Herbaceous plants that 
 are tender may be covered with three or four inches of tan, 
 sawdust, or half-decayed leaves, which will tend greatly to 
 preserve their roots. These coverings must be carefully re- 
 moved on the first opening of spring. The shrubs that are 
 otherwise covered would be greatly benefited by having their 
 roots protected in a similar manner, as directed for herbace- 
 ous plants. 
 
 PROTECTION OP SEEDLING BULBS. 
 
 If any seeds of Hyacinths, Tulips, or Fritilldria , were 
 gown in pots or boxes, let them be removed to a dry, shel- 
 tered situation, and plunged level with the ground; or fill 
 the spaces between them with dry leaves or tanners' bark, 
 and cover the whole with new-fallen leaves, laying over all 
 a few boards to prevent the wind blowing them off. These 
 form better coverings than straw or haum, which is liable 
 to become musty, and communicate the effect to the roots. 
 The above covering is not required until the approach of 
 severe frost. 
 
 OF PLANTING DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 
 
 It is not recommendable to make a general planting of 
 these at this period of the year; the success entirely depend 
 
130 GENERAL oBSEKVATiOxNP. [_Dece7nber 
 
 ing on tne nature of the season and the state of the soil. 
 If any are planted, let them be those of the hardiest nature, 
 and in light and absorbent soil, not subject to be stagnated 
 or over-flooded during winter. When this and nest month 
 are mild, autumn plantings are very frequently as* sure aa 
 those of the spring. But the precarious state of the season 
 is not to be depended upon, therefore avoid large plantings 
 of any kind, and more especially of delicate roses, the roots 
 of which are apt to rot off, except they have been previously 
 grown in pots. Nothing can be more injurious to a plant, 
 at this season particularly, than to bed its roots in mortar, 
 by which the tender fibres either perish or are cramped ever 
 afterward. The soil at the time of planting should be so. 
 friable as not to adhere to the spade, which is a good rule in 
 planting at any season, or in any soil. 
 
 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 Carry out of the garden all decayed leaves and litter of 
 every description, cutting down any weeds that remain. 
 Collect all the stakes and rods that have been supporting 
 plants, tie them up in bundles for the use of next year, and 
 put them under cover. Look over every part of the garden, 
 and see that nothing has been omitted in the way of cover- 
 ing or other protection. The sashes that are to be used on 
 the frames should be perfectly whole, every interstice in the 
 glass puttied, and all ready for use when occasion may re- 
 quire. Attend to all plants in pots, and give them gentle 
 waterings as they stand in need ; but never during the time 
 the soil is frozen about the roots. 
 
 DECEMBER. 
 
 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 Having in the preceding months under this head given 
 details for the protection of plants of a delicate nature, and 
 
December.'] GENERAL observations. 131 
 
 the forwarding of necessary work, only a few remarks remain 
 to be added. If there is any part therein described omitted, 
 have it done forthwith : every day increases the danger of 
 severe weather. If there are doubts of any plants or shrubs 
 not standing without some light covering, it is best to err on 
 the side of safety. Valuable plants on walls, and in danger of 
 being destroyed, it is advisable to be at the expense of having 
 jt frame made to surround them, and cover the same with 
 oil-cloth. The frame thus covered should be taken off in 
 mild weather, and replaced again when necessary, causing very 
 little trouble ; and, if properly taken care of, will last many 
 years. Coverings of any construction, and of the same ma- 
 terial, would answer for any part of the garden, and are the 
 best in our opinion that could be adopted. 
 
THE 
 
 AMEKICAN FLOWER-GAllDEN 
 DIRECTORY. 
 
 HOT-HOUSE. 
 
 ON THE CONSTRUCTION OP A HOT-HOUSE. 
 
 There have been many plans devised and visionary pro- 
 jects offered to the public as the best for a well-regulated 
 hot-house. As we intend forming one for practical purposes, 
 we shall adopt a convenient size, have flues for the convey- 
 ance of heat, and coal or wood for fuel. 
 
 Site and Aspect. — The house should stand on a situation 
 naturally dry, and, if possible, sheltered from the north-west, 
 and clear from all shade on the south, east and west, so that 
 the sun may at all times act effectually upon the house. The 
 standard principle, as to aspect, is to set the front directly to 
 the south. Any deviation from that point should incline to 
 the east. 
 
 Dimensions. — The length may be from ten feet upward ; 
 but, if beyond forty feet, the number of fires and flues are 
 multiplied. The medium width is from twelve to sixteen feet. 
 Our directions will apply to the two extreme points, viz., 
 forty feet by sixteen, and in height at back, from twelve to 
 eighteen feet ; the height in front six feet, including about 
 three feet in brick basement, to support the front glass, 
 which will be two and a half feet, allowing six inches for 
 framework. 
 
 12 (133) 
 
134 HOT-HOUSE. 
 
 Furnace and Flues. — It is of great importance to have 
 these erected in such a manner as will effectually heat the 
 house. The greatest difficulty is to have the furnace to draw 
 well. As workmen are not generally conversant on the sub- 
 ject, nor yet understand the effect or distribution of heat in 
 these departments, we will give minute details on their con- 
 struction. The furnace should be outside of the house, 
 either at the back or end ; the former is preferable, circum- 
 stances not always allowing it on the other plan. Dig out the 
 furnace-hole, or what is termed stock-hole, about five feet deep. 
 Lot the door of the furnace be in the back wall of the house, 
 thereby having all the heated building inside, that no heat 
 may be lost. The brick-work round the furnace should be 
 nine inches thick, laying the inside with fire-brick. Around 
 the outside leave a vacuum two or three inches wide, to allow 
 the heat to arise from around the furnace into the interior of 
 the house, thereby saving the whole heat of the fuel. The 
 furnace will require to be two and a half feet long, ten inches 
 wide, and one foot high, before the spring of the arch and 
 clear of the bars ; leave one foot for an ash-pit, then lay the 
 bars. They should be sixteen inches long, one inch broad 
 on the upper side, two inches deep, and two-eighths broad on 
 the lower side, and, with the door and frame, should be cast 
 iron. Half an inch between each bar will be sufficient. The 
 flue should rise from the furnace by a steep declivity of from 
 twenty inches to two feet, and pass the door of the house 
 (without a dip), when it must be elevated above the level of 
 the floor of the house along the front, and at the opposite 
 end of the house must dip to pass the door. The dip must 
 not be lower than the bottom of the flue at the neck of the 
 furnace. Lead it along the back to enter the wall over the 
 furnace. When thus taken round the house, the heat will 
 be expanded before it enters the chimney. The inside of 
 the flues should be from six to ten inches wide, and eight 
 inches deep ; plaster the bottom of it, but no other part, as 
 plaster is partially a non-conductor. The above description 
 is for burning anthracite coal ; but where wood is to be the 
 fuel, the furnace must be one-half larger. We have been 
 particular in the description of furnace bars, as those gene- 
 rally used are miserable substitutes. Circumstances may 
 cause the furnace to be placed at the end or front of the 
 house. In either case, the stock-hole will not require to be 
 
HOT-HOUSE. 185 
 
 BO deep; or where there is only one door m the house, a 
 stock-hole three and a half feet deep will be enough, which 
 should be built like a cellar, to keep out any under water. In 
 all instances, pass the first flue to the front of the Louse, over 
 which have a close table, covered with two inches of sand, and, 
 by keeping it moist, will aflford a very congenial heat to young 
 and valuable plants. Likewise over the furnace have a frame 
 in the same manner, which will be found useful for propaga- 
 ting. Any part of the furnace or flue tbat is under the floor 
 of the house should have a vacuity on both sides to let the 
 heat pass upward. 
 
 Furnaces and flues on the above construction are the most 
 simple in arrangement, and the easiest to manage at all times. 
 But where capital, taste, and practical science can be united, 
 the more elegant disposition of heating by hot water is now 
 universally adopted in extensive glass structures, and will 
 soon be generally adopted in the dwellings of the better 
 class. AVe have used it in every variety of form and struc- 
 ture for the past twelve years, and have .now five green- 
 houses, each over one hundred feet long, heated by it, using 
 every variety of pipe and form of boiler; have also used 
 wooden and cement tanks. Sand beds heated by it for pro- 
 pagating upon. It cannot be economically used in green- 
 houses under seventy-five feet long, and sixteen to thirty 
 feet wide. In all erections for plant or grape culture, at, or 
 over that extent, the best and cheapest method of applying 
 artificial heat is by the di3"usion of hot water through cast 
 iron or copper pipes, of three or four inches in diameter. The 
 boiler may be of any size, from five to fifteen gallons — of 
 any shape, from a pancake to a puncheon ; though that best 
 adapted to the exposing the greatest surface to the fire is to 
 be preferred. We use what is termed the saddle boiler, and 
 also the double cylinder boiler, preferring the latter, which 
 holds about ten gallons, and will supply heat enough for two 
 green-houses, each one hundred feet h'Og, or will supply a 
 green-house of one-hundred feet in length, and a hot-house 
 fifty feet, and from sixteen to twenty feet wide, using four 
 inch pipe, at a cost of about §:250, including labour and 
 materials. Its erection is perfectly simple, and can be done 
 by any good bricklayer and handy labourer; build the boiler 
 in the centre of the furnace, with its bottom about twelve or 
 fourteen inches above the fire bars ; allow the heat to have 
 
136 HOT-HOUSE. 
 
 full play all round the boiler, carrying the flue about forty 
 or fifty feet through the house, that no heat may be lost; 
 attach two pipes to the surface or top of the boiler, if it is to 
 heat right and left, but only one pipe if the heat is to be 
 carried in one direction ; distribute the pipe -wherever re- 
 quired, giving it an ascent of not Iftss than six inches to the 
 fifty feet, more if it can be done — return the pipe, entering 
 it into the lowest part of the boiler; the greater the ascent 
 and descent, the more rapid the circulation. The joints of 
 the pipe are closed by soft hemp rope, firmly rammed up and 
 closed by a mixture of white and red lead made to the con- 
 sistency of putty. These joints are preferable to those of lead, 
 which expand and contract by strong heat, requiring to be 
 hammered up frequently during the season — they can also 
 be very readily taken apart, when removal or alteration is re- 
 quired. It must be observed that air tubes have to be inserted 
 into the highest part of the pipes at each extremity, and also 
 one over, or near the boiler, for the conveniency of supplying 
 water. If the pipes diverge from the boiler to two extremes, 
 each extremity must be on a level, which otherwise will cause 
 an unequal diffusion of heat. 
 
 Example. — If a liouse to the right of the boiler one hun- 
 dred feet long has the extreme end of the pipe elevated one foot 
 above the level of the boiler, a house fifty feet long to the left 
 must have the same elevation, othei'wise the heat will be the 
 greatest where the pipe is highest. 
 
 This we consider the most economical method of heating by 
 hot water, and it is by far the most simple — simple indeed 
 in every part, though volumes have been written on the sub- 
 ject. 
 
 Bark Pit. — We consider such an erection in the centre of 
 a hot-house a nuisance, and prefer a stage, which may be con- 
 structed according to taste. It should be made of the best 
 Carolina pine, leaving a passage all round, to cause a free 
 circulation of air. The back and end paths may be about two 
 feet wide, and the front three feet. The angle of the stage 
 should be parallel with the glass, having the steps from six 
 inches to one foot apart. 
 
 Where there are some large plants, they may stand on 
 the floor behind the stage, or on tressels, according to theij; 
 height. 
 
January. \ hothouse. 137 
 
 Angle of the glazed Roof. — The pitch of the roof is usually 
 varied to agree with the design of the house, and the size 
 of the plants to be grown therein. Where pleasure and orna- 
 ment are the principal objects, the angle should be about 33° 
 from the level line ; but a few degrees of inclination either 
 way is of minor importance. 
 
 Materials for glazing Sashes. — Carolina pine is the best 
 material for the wood-work, as it is not so subject to decay 
 from moisture and heat as the other kinds of pine wood. 
 The frames or sashes can be of any convenient length, not 
 exceeding ten feet, and about three and a half or four feet 
 wide, and made from plank two inches thick, divided so as 
 they can be glazed with glass six inches wide. 
 
 Of Glazing. — The pieces of glass should not exceed six 
 inches by eight, though six by six is preferable; the lappings 
 about one quarter of an inch. The frames ought to have 
 two coats of paint previous to glazing, and the glass bedded 
 in putty. Some prefer the lappings to be puttied also. It 
 is our opinion that in a hot-house these should not be puttied, 
 but, in the green-house, the closer they can be made the 
 better. 
 
 Of Shutters. — These should be made of three-quarters of 
 an inch white pine, and bound on both ends and sides, having 
 a cross-piece in the middle of the same. They ought to be 
 painted at least once in three years. 
 
 HOT-HOUSE. 
 JANUARY. 
 
 At all times, be very careful of the temperature of this 
 department, and more especially at this season of the year, 
 as a few minutes' neglect might materially injure many of 
 the delicate plants. The thermometer ought to range 
 between 55' and 65°. In fine sunshiny '1 lys admit a 
 little air bj having sonj-) of the top aisli.- iot down one, 
 12* 
 
138 HOT-HOUSE. [January, 
 
 two, or three inches, according to the weather, and let it 
 always be done from eleven to one o'clock ', but by no means 
 in such a manner as to cause a draft in the interior of 
 the house, which would be very prejudicial. Therefore, be 
 always cautious during cold weather in administering that 
 necessary element to vegetation, which is so conducive to 
 health. 
 
 OP FIRING AND FUEL. 
 
 The hot-house ought never t, be left entirely to inexpe- 
 rienced persons, because they are not aware what might be 
 the result of inattention even for an hour. Attention 
 to the following observations will obviate every difficulty: 
 About this season of the year, frost generally sets in very 
 severe in the Middle States. Suppose the day may have all 
 the clemency of spring, the night may be directly the re- 
 verse. Every precaution is necessary to guard against 
 extremes. The shutters are put on every night at sun- 
 down, and, in severe weather, as soon as the sun goes off 
 the glass. If the shutters are omitted till late in severe 
 frost, it will so reduce the heat of the house that you can- 
 not overcome it by fire until near midnight; and when 
 done, the fire or fires have been made more powerful than 
 they ought to be, proving ungenial to the plants that are 
 near the flues. The air, as above directed, having been 
 taken off the house at one o'clock, as soon as the mercury 
 begins to fall in the thermometer, kindle the fire, and, sup- 
 posing it is anthi'acite coal, in twenty minutes, with a good 
 drawing furnace, the heat will operate in the house. If a 
 coal fire, kindled about four o'clock, it will require an addi- 
 tion about six, and then may be made up again about nine 
 or ten, which will suffice until morning. The quantity must 
 be regulated by the weather. If the fuel is wood, it must be 
 attended to three or four times during the evening; and, 
 when the mornings are intensely cold, a fire may be requisite. 
 When there are bad-drawing furnaces, the fires must be made 
 much earlier, perhaps by two or three o'clock, which will be 
 easily observed by the time the fire takes effect upon the air 
 of the house. The temperature ought never to be under fifty 
 degrees of Fahrenheit. 
 
January.'] hot-house. 139 
 
 OP WATERING THE TLANTS. 
 
 To do this judiciously, is so necessary to vegetation, and so 
 requisite to understand, and yet the knowledge so difficult to 
 convey to others (being entirely acquired by practice), that if 
 the power were in man to impart to his fellow-men, he would 
 possess the power of perfecting a gardener by diction. How- 
 ever, the hints on this important point of floriculture will be 
 as clear and expressive as can at present be elicited. All 
 plants in this work that are aquatic shall be specified as such ; 
 and those that are arid shall be duly mentioned. All others 
 will come in the medium. 
 
 All the plants must be looked over every day, and those 
 watered that appear to be getting dry on the top. It must 
 be strictly observed not to give water to any but such as 
 strictly require it, and let it be given moderately at this 
 season. There is not so much liability to err, at present, 
 in giving too little, as in administering too much. Vege- 
 tation among the stove or hot-house plants will soon begin 
 to show, and the soil will become sour if it is impregnated 
 with stagnant moisture. Small plants should always be 
 watered with a pot having what is termed a rose upon it. 
 The surface of the rose, that is, where it is perforated with 
 small apertures, ought to be level, or a little concave, which 
 would convey the water more to a centre, and make neater 
 work, by preventing any water from being unnecessarily 
 spilt in the house. The size of the pot will be regulated 
 by the person, to suit the conveniences of the place. Water, 
 when applied either to the roots or foliage of the plants, 
 should be about the medium temperature of the house. 
 AVhere thei'e are no cisterns, a tank or barrel might be in 
 the house, in which the water could stand for one night or 
 more, as is most suitable. When water is given without 
 being thus aired, it chills the roots, prevents a luxuriant 
 growth, injures the fresh and healthful appearance of the 
 foliage, and too frequently gives to all the plants a sickly 
 hue. 
 
140 HOT-HOUSE. {January 
 
 OP INSECTS, THEIR DESTRUCTION, ETC. 
 
 In this department, insects begin to increase by hundreds, 
 and too frequently tbeir ravages are very obvious before theii 
 progress is arrested. We will treat of those which are most 
 common, under their respective heads, with their nature and 
 cure, as far as has come under our observation. 
 
 Aphis rosce, of the natural order of Hemiptera, or what 
 is commonly known by Green Fly, G-reen Lice, &c., infect 
 plants in general, and are particularly destructive in the 
 hot-house to Hibiscus 7'dsa-sinensis, AsclejnAs, Crdssulu coc- 
 cinca, Lantdna, &c., and many other plants of a free-growing 
 nature. They attack the young and tender shoots at the 
 point, leaving a dark filthy appearance on the foliage. 
 Many remedies for their destruction have been offered to 
 the public by various writers, each equally secure in his own 
 opinion. Extensive practice alone can show the most easy 
 and effectual cure. Fumigating with tobacco is decidedly 
 the most efficacious, and in the power of any to perform. 
 Take a small circular furnace, made of sheet iron, diamett;r 
 at top twelve inches, and at bottom eight j depth one foot, 
 having a grating in it to reach within three inches of the 
 bottom, which will leave space for the air to pass, and where 
 the ashes will fall and be kept in safety, having a handle 
 like a pail to carry it with. This, or anything similar, being 
 ready, put in it a few embers of charcoal, ignited to redness ; 
 take it into the centre of the house, and put therein a quan- 
 tity of moist tobacco. If it attempts to burn or flame, 
 sprinkle a little water thereon ; and, as it consumes, continue 
 to add tobacco until the house is entirely full of smoke, 
 observing always to do it in still, cloudy weather, or in the 
 evening. If it is windy, the smoke is carried off without 
 having half the effectj and requires more tobacco. The 
 house must be closely shut up. There are several plants 
 whose foliage is of a soft downy nature, such as Ileliirojjiums, 
 Callacdrjms, Salvias, and many of the Lantdnas, Vincas, 
 with several others that cannot stand strong fumigation 
 without danger. These should be put down in the house, 
 or under the stage These fumigations will have to be 
 repeated frequently, the time for which will easily be per- 
 ceived; and, when required, ought not to be delayed. 
 
January.'] hot-house — insects, etc. 141 
 
 Several speoies and varieties of tlie same gpnus, Aphis, can 
 be destroyed in the like manner. 
 
 Acaris tellurius, or red spider, is caused by a dry atmo- 
 sphere, and its havoc generally is obvious before it is arrested. 
 With its proboscis it wounds the fine capillary vessels of the 
 leaves. If- they progress in their destructive work, the 
 leaves will prematurely decay. On this appearance turn up 
 the leaf, and you will see them running about with incredi- 
 ble swiftness. Their body is of a blood colour, and their feet 
 light red. When very numerous, they work thick webs on 
 the underside of the leaf, and frequently all over it, forming 
 a mass of half-dead plants, decayed leaves, and thousands of 
 spiders. The most effectual remedy is a thorough syringing 
 with water, and profusely under the foliage. This being 
 done every evening, will subdue and eventually banish them. 
 Had the house been syringed two or three times per week, 
 these intruders would not have appeared. It is said by 
 some writers that watering only reduces them to a temporary 
 state of inaction, and will not destroy them. Laying aside 
 the many prescribed nostrums, we assert that the pui'e ele- 
 ment is the most effectual cure, as well as the most easy to be 
 obtained.* 
 
 Thrips, order Hemiptera, are insects so minute aa 
 scarcely to be perceptible to the naked eye. They generally 
 lurk close to the veins of the leaves of plants, and frequently 
 attack esculents. When viewed through a glass they are 
 seen, when touched, to skip with great agility. The larva is 
 of a high brown or reddish colour. The thrip has four wings, 
 and walks with its body turned upward. It frequently attacks 
 the extremities of tender shoots or young leaves, which be- 
 come shrivelled, brown, and will rub to dust easily between 
 the thumb and finger. When any leaves or shoots are per- 
 ceived to be so, if you do not observe the green fly, expect 
 the thrips. They may be destroyed by a fumigation of to- 
 bacco, in the same manner as the green fly. By the simple 
 and expeditious method of fumigation, these insects and 
 several others may be destroyed effectually at any time they 
 appear. 
 
 Cocus hesperidus, or mealy bug, has appeared' in the hot- 
 
 * Fumes of sulphur is instant death to them ; but it has to be usej 
 with great caution and experience. 
 
142 HOT-HOUSE — INSECTS, ETC. [January 
 
 bouses about Philadelphia within these few years, and, if not 
 instantly destroyed, increases rapidly. It is of a white dusty 
 colour; when broken, cf a brownish red, generally covered 
 with down, under which it deposits its eggs ; and they, in a 
 few months, come forth in great numbers. The cocus gene- 
 rally is of a dormant nature, but in warm weather they may 
 be seen rapidly moving up the stems of the plants. Fumi 
 gating has no observable effect on these insects; therefore, 
 as soon as they appear, recourse must be had to other means. 
 The liquid made from the following receipt is death to any 
 of the Cocus tribe : Take two pounds of strong soap, one 
 pound of flour of sulphur, one pound of leaf tobacco, one 
 and a half ounce of nux vomica, with a tablespoonful of tur- 
 pentine, which boil in four gallons of river water to three; 
 then set aside to cool. When boiling, stir it well with a 
 stick, continuing to do so until it is reduced as above. In 
 this liquor immerse the whole plant, drawing it to and fro 
 gently, that the liquor may penetrate everywhere. This 
 done, lay the plant on its side, until it begins to dry, then 
 syringe well with clean water, and put it in its respective sta- 
 tion. Where a collection of plants is free from any insects 
 of the kind, every plant that is introduced ought to be mi- 
 nutely scrutinized, that the unclean may be kept from the 
 clean : the above insects will feed almost on any plant, but 
 indulges on Crdsulas, any of the bristly Cactus, Gardenias, 
 and in fact whatever is in the way. 
 
 Cocus , or brown scaly insect, is frequently found 
 
 on many plants, but we never could perceive that it does any 
 other material injury than soiling them. We have always 
 observed, that it is found in winter to abound in those situa- 
 tions which are most excluded from air; therefore is of less 
 importance than the other rpecies, which eat and corrode the 
 leaves of tender plants. A washing with strong soapsuds 
 will destroy them, or the above liquid will do it more effectu- 
 ally. Tie a piece of sponge on the end of a small stick, and 
 scrub every leaf, stem, and crevice. Fumigating destroys the 
 larvae of this species. 
 
 Cocus , or small white scaly insect, whic'^i 
 
 generally infests Ci/cas, Nerium, Oleas, and Acacias, &c., 
 may be destroyed by washing as above with a sponge, and 
 a strong decoction of tobacco, using the liquid about the 
 warmth of 100°. Being thus heated, it irritates the insect, 
 
January.'] HOT-HOUSE — OP CLEANSING, ETC. 143 
 
 when, by easing itself from its bed, the fluid passes under it, 
 and causes immediate death. If it is not thus irritated, it 
 adheres so closely to the foliage that it will keep you at de- 
 fiance. The under or dark side of the leaves is its residence ; 
 and we have observed a plant in a house where there was only 
 light on one side, with the dark side literally covered, while 
 the light side was clean. So much for having houses with 
 plenty of light. The efi"ects of this insect are of a corroding 
 nature, extracting all the juice from the leaf; and where they 
 have got to the extremity, the foliage is completely yellow, 
 and of a decayed appearance. 
 
 Cocus , or turtle insect. "We have never ob- 
 served this insect arrive to any extent. It is the largest of 
 any known among us, and very like a turtle in miniature. 
 On lifting it from the wood, to which it generally adheres, 
 there appear to be hundreds of eggs under it, but fumigating 
 completely destroys the larvae. In our opinion, this turtle in- 
 sect is no other than the old female of the brown scaly insect, 
 which swells to a large size before depositing its eggs. We 
 have frequently observed the insect dead in this enlarged 
 state, and question if this be not the last stage of its transmi- 
 gration. The male insect is winged, and very active in its 
 movements. 
 
 Where bulbous roots, such as Hyacinths, Jonquils, Ixias, 
 Lachendllas, &c., are required to be early in flower, they may, 
 during this mouth, be put in the front of the hot-house and 
 watered freely till they bloom, when they may be taken to the 
 green-house or parlour. 
 
 Azaleas, Rhododendron Roses, and some other plants, do 
 admirably to force ; and where there is a large stock, a few 
 should be brought into early bloom with the heat of this de- 
 partment. 
 
 OF CLEANSING PLANTS, HOUSE, ETC. 
 
 This subject ought to be kept constantly in view. How- 
 ever correctly everything else may be executed, without 
 that adorning beauty, cleanliness, all will appear only half 
 done. Therefore let all the dead leaves be picked off every 
 day, the dust and other litter swept out of the house, and, 
 when necessary, the house washed, which will be at least 
 
144 HOT-HOUSE. \_February, 
 
 once a week. That the foliage of the plants may always 
 appear fresh^ syringe them every morning, when there is the 
 appearance of sun. At present, this will in a great measure 
 keep down the insects, and will prove a bane to the red 
 /Spider. 
 
 •Tie up neatly with stakes and threads of Russia mat all 
 the straggling growing plants ; let the stakes be proportion- 
 ate to the plants, and never longer, except they are climbing 
 sorts. Do not tie the branches in bundles, but singly and 
 neatly, imitating nature as much as possible. If any of the 
 plants are affected with the Cocus insect, let them be cleansed 
 according to the plan already mentioned, taking particular 
 care also in washing the stakes to which they had been pre- 
 viously tied, and burning all the old tyings, which contain 
 the larvae of the insect in many instances, especially of 
 Cocus liespcridus. It is premised, when any of these things 
 are done, that they will be well done, and not half doing, 
 and always doing. Cleanliness, in every respect, promotes a 
 pure air, which is congenial to vegetation, and will, with other 
 attentions, always assume a healthful and vigorous appearance 
 in the house. 
 
 FEBRUARY 
 
 In the eai'ly part of this month, the weather generally is 
 very cold and changeable in the Middle States, and strict 
 attention, with the greatest caution, will require to be paid 
 to the management of the hot-house. Most of the tropical 
 plants commence an active state of vegetation j and, if 
 checked by temperature or otherwise, they will not recover 
 until midsummer. The thermometer may be kept two or 
 three degrees higher with fire heat than last month : the sun 
 will be more powerful, and this will, in a great degree, in- 
 crease the vigour of the plants. Air may be admitted when 
 the thermometer rises to 75° or 80°, not allowing it to rise 
 higher than the latter. In giving air, let it be done by the 
 top sashes. It is improper to give it in any way to cause a 
 current, for the external air is yet very cold, although the 
 
Febi-uari/.'] HOT-HOUSE — OF INSECTS, ETC. 145 
 
 sun is more powerful. An incli or two on a few of the sashes, 
 as has been previously observed, will be effectual in keeping 
 the temperature low enough. 
 
 With regard to firing, what was said last month may suffice 
 for this. Always recollect that it is more preferable to keep 
 out the cold than to put it out. It will frequently happen in 
 the time of intense frost that the weather is dull. In such 
 cases, fire in a small degree is requisite all day. 
 
 Heavy snows ought never to be allowed to remain on the 
 shutters while they are on the house. If the snow lies on the 
 sashes one day, the internal heat will dissolve some of it ; 
 night coming on, will freeze it to the wood-work, when it will 
 become a solid mass, and frequently cannot be separated with- 
 .out much damage. If allowed to remain on for two days, the 
 plants are very much weakened and the foliage discoloured. 
 Therefoi'e, let the snow be cleared off instantly, that no incon- 
 venience may take place. 
 
 It will be observed that plants absorb more water this month 
 than last. The quantity given will require to be increased, 
 according to the increase of vegetation and the advancement 
 of the season ; but never give it until the soil begins to dry, 
 and then in such proportion as will reach the bottom of the 
 pot. The best time to water is after the sun has got on the 
 house in the morning, observing all the directions given in 
 January. 
 
 OP INSECTS, ETC. 
 
 Perhaps sufficient observations were given under this head 
 last month ; but the importance of keeping the disagreeable 
 visiters out of the house constrains us to make a few more 
 remarks. Man cannot be too frequently guarded against his 
 foes, more especially when they are summoning all their forces, 
 and no profession has more than that of the Horticulturist. 
 Let a strict examination be made about the end of the month 
 for the red spider ; they will be in operation some weeks before 
 their depredations are observed on the foliage. The under side 
 of the leaf is their resort in the first instance, and on such 
 plants as have been already mentioned. 
 
 Observe daily the young shoots, in case the green fly be- 
 13 
 
146 nOT-HOUSE — OF REPOTTING PLANTS. \_Fcbrmry. 
 
 comes numerous. They give the foliage a very disagreeable 
 appearance, and it is too often intolerable, before their career 
 is arrested. It also takes a stronger fumigation, which has fre- 
 quently to be repeated the following day to the same degree, 
 much to the injury of many of the plants, and adding to the 
 disagreeableness of the continued vapour in the house. 
 
 OP REPOTTING PLANTS. 
 
 About the end of the month, some of the plants of Cur- 
 cuma Am6mv.m Kccmpferia, Alpina, Phrynium, Cdnna, 
 Zingiher, Hedychium, and others that are on the dry shelf, 
 will be offering to grow. Let them be taken out of their pots, 
 some of their weakest shoots or tubers taken off, and the 
 strong ones repotted : give gentle waterings until they grow 
 freely, then give in abundance. (Soil No. 17.) 
 
 Dioncea muscipula, or Venus's fly-trap, grows best in the 
 hot-house, and will, about the end of the month, stand in 
 need of being repotted. This plant is very seldom grown in 
 any degree of perfection, having been always considered a 
 delicate plant in collections. Take it out of the pot just be- 
 fore beginning to grow afresh, and divested of all the soil, 
 leaving only a few of the young roots (it is a bulb, and will 
 receive no injury by so doing), put it in new soil; when 
 potted, place the pot in a saucer with one- inch of water in it, 
 giving a fresh supply every other day ; this being repeated 
 every year, it will grow, flower, and seed in perfection. (Soil 
 No. 5.) 
 
 Gesnerias, if in small pots, give larger as they advance in 
 growth. This genus requires to have plenty of pot-room to 
 make them flower well. G. ohlongata, G. Zebrina, and G. 
 Sellowii ought to have a situation in every hot-house. They 
 are remarkable for their many brilliant crimson flowers, and 
 continue in flower for a length of time. When the bulbs 
 ..egin to push, shake them out of the earth, and repot them 
 knto smaller pots ; and, as soon as the roots reach the side of 
 the earth, which will be in about one month, put them in 
 larger pots, and continue to do so until flowering, which will 
 be about the first of June, observing always to keep the ball 
 of earth entire. G. tnbijlora, G. magnijica, G. lutea, and 
 some others, are all well worth attention. (Soil No. 11.) 
 
February.'] hot-house — of cleansing, etc. 147 
 
 Gloridsas must be repotted in the beginning of this month ; 
 G. superba is the most beautiful and curious. The crown 
 of the roots ought to be jjlanted one and a half inch deep, 
 taking care not to break them. Do not water much until 
 they begin to grow. The earth must not have much water. 
 As the plants grow, they will require a more liberal supply ; 
 yet it is necessary, at all times, to be moderate in giving it. 
 If well treated, the superb flowers will appear in June or 
 July. (Soil No. 12.) 
 
 Gloxinias are beautiful herbaceous plants, with large showy 
 flowers, requiring soil and treatment similar to (Gesneria). 
 G. speciosa, dark blue, G. speciosa-pdllida, pale lilac; G. 
 Candida, pure white, G. grandijldra, very large light blue, 
 rubra, red ; Cerina, pink and white ; maxima, lilac and 
 white, Lennigii, rose and white; Maria Van Houttii, white, 
 scarlet throat; Victoria regina, pale blue, white throat; and 
 Teuclerii, rose, white and violet, are the finest, although seve- 
 ral of the other species are very interesting. 
 
 or CLEANSING PLANTS, HOUSE, ETC. 
 
 With regard to cleaning the plants, sprinkling or syring- 
 ing is at all times, to a greater or less degree, necessary. 
 The plants will, in this compartment, be in their first stage 
 of growth, and, if dust or foulness be permitted to lodge on 
 their foliage, the pores will be obstructed, the plants will be- 
 come unhealthy, and the growth of insects increased. 
 
 Let all moss, litter, decayed leaves or weeds, be cleared 
 out of the house, the earth in the pots stirred up with a round 
 pointed stick, and fresh earth given where required, that the 
 air may operate therein freely. 
 
 The house ought always to be sprinkled before being 
 swept, to prevent the dust rising. 
 
 Attend to the bulbous roots as directed last month, such 
 as Hyacinths, Narcissus, &c. 
 
148 HOT-HOUSE — OF REPOTTING, ETC. [^March. 
 
 MARCH. 
 
 If this department has been regularly attended to, the 
 plants will be in a fresh healthy state. Where there is any 
 sickly appearance, heat has been deficient, or insects of a de- 
 structive character are preying upon the plants. Too much 
 water at the root frequently causes the foliage to become 
 yellow. Regular syringing must be continued in the morn- 
 ing, and it is highly necessary that the water that is used 
 should be of the same temperature as the house ; and at all 
 times, whatever water is given to the roots, the same must 
 be observed. For airing, see last month, observing, as the 
 season advances, to increase the quantity. 
 
 Continue to fumigate when any of the Green-fly appears 
 (see January for directions), and where there are any of the 
 plants infected with the white scaly insect, clean them as 
 there directed. If overlooked for a few months, they will 
 be increased tenfold. Very frequently, where there are only 
 a few, they are neglected until the plant is overrun with them, 
 and then it may be said it is impossible to dislodge them 
 entirely. Clear oiF all decayed leaves from the plants which 
 will have made fresh shoots, for the decayed leaves very much 
 disfigure the whole collection. We would not have repeated 
 this observation if it was not an essential point, and one 
 which is so frequently neglected. 
 
 OF REPOTTING PLANTS. 
 
 Many of the young plants that are growing freely, and 
 (vhere they may be desired to grow to a large size, should be 
 frequently repotted to encourage their growth. Gesna-ia, 
 Gloxinia, and others previously mentioned, must have larger 
 pots, as they require it. Flowering bulbs of Amaryllis may 
 be brought into the heat to make them bloom early ; before 
 they begin to grow, divest them of the old soil, and put them 
 into fresh : this is particularly necessary, when the bulbs are 
 already in large pots. By thus renewing the soil, the pots 
 can be used much smaller : they require plenty of drainage in 
 the pot, and agree best with soil No. 12. 
 
Aprill HOT-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 149 
 
 Where plants of the dwarf Musas are intended to be grown 
 for fruiting, they must have particular attention in repotting 
 as they grow ; about the first of the month will be a proper 
 time to begin : copious waterings are daily required when they 
 are in a growing state. Their soil is No. 12, with one portion 
 more manure. For farther detail, see May. 
 
 APEIL. 
 
 Where the hot-house has been properly conducted, the 
 plants generally will have a vigorous and healthful aspect. 
 An error frequently arises in the conducting of these depart- 
 ments, by inexperienced operators, being ambitious of out- 
 stripping their competitors. They keep the house in a very 
 high temperature, and admit little or no air. Where such a 
 mode has been pursued, the plants will have got over their 
 first growth, and the foliage looks yellow and decaying ; thus 
 throwing the plants into a state of inactivity, when nature 
 herself commences her most active movements. The tempera- 
 ture should not be under 55° in the night, nor much above 
 75° during the day, without admitting a little air by the top- 
 lights. It will not do yet to give air by the front sashes, the 
 wind being cool, and a current in the house would be hurtful. 
 The sun is not so powerful, but the heat can be kept down by 
 the air given from above. 
 
 Hot-house or tropical plants will not materially suffer with 
 100° of sun heat, provided they are not very near the glass j 
 but such an extreme would be injurious to practise. 
 
 REPOTTING. 
 
 Where there is a general assortment of the Cactae tribe, 
 and kept in this department, now is the proper poriod to give 
 them a general repotting. Of all the tropical floral produc- 
 tions, there is not a family more curious, grotesque, interest- 
 ing, and beautiful than this; and, what still more enhances 
 their real value, they are in this country of the easiest cul- 
 1?* 
 
150 HOT-HOUSE — OF REPOTTING, ETC. {^May, 
 
 ture ; it is with pleasure t^at we recommend a few of the 
 grand and the novel, which are faithfully described in the 
 general list given next month. The bottom of every pot 
 must be covered with an inch of pot-shreds, or rough gravel 
 for drainage. 
 
 MAY. 
 
 Very few directions for this department remain to be given ; 
 except for shifting plants, aud a few observations on those 
 that are most desirable for the hot-house; which we will do in 
 this month, considering May and June the best months of the 
 year for that operation. 
 
 The days and nights will be very mild by this time, and 
 the sashes in every favourable day should be opened, both in 
 front and top, so that the plants may be inured to the open 
 air, which they will be exposed to by the end of the month. 
 Leave in the beginning of the month the top sashes a little 
 open every mild night, and gradually, as the heat increases, 
 leave the front sashes and doors open. Continue to syringe 
 them at least every alternate night, and, if possible, every 
 night ; and give them all, according to their respective wants, 
 liberal supplies of water every day. Absorption among hot- 
 house plants is as great during this month as in any period of 
 the year. 
 
 OF repotting plants, etc. 
 
 It is our candid opinion that this and next month are the 
 best periods for shifting or repotting all or most of hot-house 
 plants ; the end of August being the time always adopted 
 around Philadelphia for that operation (and then they are 
 done indiscriminately). We will assign a few reasons for our 
 practice. 
 
 First, that it is not congenial to the nature of these plants 
 to have their roots surrounded with fresh soil when they are 
 becoming inactive ; secondly, that there is not a sufficiency 
 
May."] HOT-HOUSE — of repottinGj etc. 151 
 
 of heat naturally to quicken them to an active state when 
 they are encouraged; and, thirdly, being thus in new soil 
 while dormant, they have a yellow and sickly aspect until 
 they begin to grow; and the foliage, thus deprived of its 
 natural vigour, will not appear so healthful again : whereas, 
 if they are shifted or repotted in this or next month, at 
 which season they are between two stages of growth, they 
 immediately, on receiving fresh assistance, and by the increas-. 
 ing heat of the summer, make new growths, are perfectly 
 ripened before the approach of winter, and never lose tliat 
 vernal appearance they have attained. These are our reasons, 
 acquired from a close practice and observation, and are not 
 influenced by the doings of others which are so much aside. 
 No practical operator especially, nor, in fact, any individual, 
 ought to be governed by custom in regard to the treatment 
 of plants, without having any idea as to why and wherefore, 
 founded on the principles of nature, and governed by her un- 
 erring results. 
 
 As many are desirous of having a knowledge of plants 
 before they order them, and likewise which are the finest 
 flowerers and their general character, especially those who 
 are at a great distance, and seldom have the privilege of 
 seeing what is most desirable, our descriptions will bo limit- 
 ed, but still will convey some accurate idea of the article 
 described. 
 
 Acacias. — Several of these are desirable in the hot-house 
 for the grandeur of their foliage, beauty of flower, and a few 
 of them as specimens of valuable medicinal plants. A. 
 Housf6ni, now Annesleia Houstdni, is one of the most 
 magnificent of the Mimosa tribe, blooming from August to 
 November in large terminal spikes of a crimson colour, 
 stamens very long and beautiful, leaves bipinnated in pairs. 
 A. grandiflora, likewise given to Annesleia., and similar to 
 the former in colour, has very large compound bipinuate 
 leaves, with from twenty to forty pairs. A. Catechu, flowers 
 yellow, wood spiny, leayes bipinnated, about ten pairs. The 
 inner wood of this tree is of a brown colour, from which the 
 Catechu used in medicine is prepai'ed. It is disputed 
 whether A. vera or A. ardhica produces the gum Arabic. 
 We are inclined to think it is the latter, which grows prin- 
 cipally on the Atlas mountains. The gum exudes spon- 
 taneously from the bii-vk of the tree in a soft half fluid state 
 
152 HOT-HOUSE — OP REPOTTING, ETC. [Mat/. 
 
 There are many others of this genus belonging to the hot- 
 house, but being shy in flowering, are not generally esteemed. 
 Most of the flowers have the appearance of yellow balls of 
 down, and are hermaphrodite. The pots should all be well 
 drained. (Soil No. 1.)* 
 
 JEschynantlnis, about four species, among which jE. grandi- 
 fiorus, ^. Boschianns, dark velvet purple and bright scarlet, 
 and ^.parasiticus are very deserving of culture; they have 
 thick fleshy foliage, are of slender growth, producing orange- 
 coloured tubular flowers in clusters, and require treatment 
 similar to the wax-plant. (Soil No. 2.) 
 
 Ardisias, about eighteen species. Plants highly esteemed 
 for the beauty of their foliage, flowers, and berries. The 
 most popular in our collections is A. creniddta. It has rose- 
 coloured star-like flowers, in terminal panicles, and produces 
 beautiful small red berries, which continue until other ber- 
 ries are produced the following year ) and frequently there 
 may be seen on one plant the berries of three successive 
 years, thus being a very ornamental plant and very desira- 
 ble. It is vulgarly called the dwarf ever-bearing cherry. It 
 will keep in a good green-house, but not grow freely. A. so- 
 landcea has large oblong leaves, narrowed at each end, and 
 bears purple berries; A. eJegans has entire, oblong, shining 
 leaves; A. umbellata, once A. littordlis, is also a fine plant 
 for an abundance of flower and beauty of foliage. The 
 flowers are pink, in large decompound panicles. 
 
 Allamanda, a family of half climbing plants, with large 
 chrome-yellow blossoms, requiring plenty of pot-room and 
 good culture to flower well. A. cathdrtica, A. neriifolia, and 
 A. schottli, we consider the finest. (Use soil No. 13.) 
 
 Aphalandra cristata, a new plant with a brilliant spike of 
 flowers about six inches long crowning the plant. (Use soil 
 No. 9.) 
 
 Areca, Cabbage-tree, ten species. They are a kind of 
 palms, with large pinnated leaves, or properly fronds. In 
 their indigenous state they are from six to forty feet high, 
 but in the hot-house they seldom exceed twenty feet. A. 
 catechu is used in medicine. A. olerdcea is cultivated exten- 
 sively in the "West Indies, and the tender part of the top 
 
 * These numbers refer to the table of soils at the end of tb« 
 work. 
 
Ma^.'] HOT-HOUSE — or repotting, etc. 153 
 
 is eaten by the natives. A. montand is most frequent in 
 collections There is no particular beauty in the flowers. 
 They are all easily grown, if plenty of heat be given. (Soil 
 No. 12.) 
 
 Aristoldchias, Birth-wort. There are several of these be- 
 longing to the hot-house, but none of them deserving par- 
 ticuhir observation, except A. lahibsa, A. gigas, and A. bra- 
 sinensis. The leaves are reniform, roundish, cordate, and 
 amplexicaule; the flower or corolla is of a curious construc- 
 tion, being incurved, and at the base swelled or saccate, with 
 a large lip, and all beautifully spotted ; colour greenish brown. 
 They are climbing plants, and require a strong heat. (Soil 
 No. 9.) 
 
 Astrapcras, three species. A. Wallichii is a celebrated 
 plant in Europe, and is frequently met with in our collec- 
 tions. It has a profusion of scarlet umbellated flowers, with 
 an involucre ; has twenty-five stamens united into a tube, 
 bearing the corolla with five petals ; leaves roundish, cordate, 
 acuminate, very large, with persistent, ovate wavy stipules. 
 The plant is of easy culture, and grows freely, wood very 
 strong. (Soil No. 12.) 
 
 Bamhiisas, Bamboo-cane, two species. Plants of very 
 strong growth, and are used in the East Indies, where they 
 are indigenous, for every purpose in the construction of huts, 
 for furniture both domestic and rural, for fences, boats, boxes, 
 paper, &c. It is frequently used as pipes to convey water. 
 The species thus useful is B. arundindcea, which grows tc 
 a great height. We do not mention it as interesting in 
 beauty, but as a valuable plant for the many useful purposes 
 to which it is applied. It requires to be kept wet. (Soil 
 No. 15.) 
 
 Banisterias, a genus of about fourteen climbing evergreen 
 plants. Three of them are esteemed, B. fulgcns, yellow 
 flowers in racemose spikes, leaves subovate and downy be- 
 neath. B. chrisoplii/Ua has beautiful foliage, as if covered 
 with a shining gold-coloured dust ; leaves large, oblong, acute. 
 B. splendens, flowers in spikes of a yellow colour ; folingo 
 large and silvery-like ; the pots should be well drained. (Soil 
 No. 9.) 
 
 Beaumont ias are strong-growing, climlmg plants, with 
 large foliage. B. grandijibra is said to have beautiful large 
 white flowers approaching the Oleander. (Soil No. 12.) 
 
154 HOT-HOUSE — OP REPOTTING, ETC. [May. 
 
 BUtias, a genus of about eight species, all beautiful flow- 
 ering plants. B. Tankervillia: is most superb, a small plant, 
 now (Jan), in bloom, has upward of fifty full-blown flowers, 
 besides many buds — they are brown, white, and purple, and 
 about two inches in diameter. When out of flower, and the 
 roots become dormant, place the pots in a shady situation ; 
 allow the soil to become dry, until the roots begin to grow : 
 as soon as this is observed, repot the plants and expose them 
 fully to the sun, giving plenty of water while growing. B. 
 Shqyherdii is a fine pink, and requires similar treatment. 
 (Soil No. 13.) 
 
 Bignoniaj a very beautiful family of climbing plants, some 
 of them gorgeously covered with bloom half of the year. B. 
 venustd has large clusters of bright orange-coloured flowers in 
 great profusion from December to May. B. picta, violet and 
 lilac-coloured striped flowers. B. chamberlyana, yellow 
 flowers with rich foliage. 
 
 They should be planted into large pots or tubs, or if prac- 
 ticable, into the ground, in the interior of the house, giving 
 them plenty of space to climb, using soil No. 9. 
 
 Brun/elsias, very fine, free-flowering plants, with white, 
 yellowish, or purple flowers. B. grandijibra blooms freely, 
 and is finely scented — a plant before me now (28th of Jan), 
 only one foot high, has sis full expanded flowers upon it, each 
 fully two inches in diameter. (Soil No. 9.) 
 
 Buonapdrtea Juncea, a very curious low-growing plant, 
 with long narrow, recurved, round leaves; with spikes of 
 small green flowers. There does appear to be three distinct 
 varieties in cultivation, but are rarely attainable. (Soil No. 
 12.)^ 
 
 Btiddha madagascariensis blooms profusely during winter 
 in spikes of orange-coloured flowers, of a kind of honey fra- 
 grance — the plant is strong-growing, and of the easiest culture. 
 (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 Calatliea zebrhia, frequently known as mardnia zehrhia ; 
 it is a plant unique in appearance, having large elongated 
 ovate leaves, beautifully striped with green and dark pur- 
 ple, and called the Zehra plant. It has light blue flowers 
 in ovate spikes, about the size of large pine cones. It is 
 an herbaceous plant; but in the warmest part of the hot- 
 house retains its splendid foliage ; requires a very liberal 
 
May.'] HOT-HOUSE — OF REPOTTING, ETC. 155 
 
 Bupply of watei*, and ought to be in every collection. (Soil 
 No. 11.) 
 
 Cdnnas, about thirty species, several of them deserving 
 cultivation both for flower and foliage; they are principally 
 natives of the West Indies. The finest are C. gigdntca, has 
 large leaves and orange flowers; G. limbdia, flowers scarlet 
 and yellow ; C. discolor, has large cordate, acuminate leaves 
 of a crimson colour, C. iridljlbra, has large crimson flowers. 
 They all, while in a growing state, require a liberal supply of 
 water ; and being herbaceous plants, watering ought to be 
 given up about the first of November, and renewed in Febru- 
 ary, thus giving them a cessation which they require to flower 
 freely ; but when water is constantly given, which is the gene- 
 ral plan in our collections, they continue to push weak shoots 
 and few flowers. They also do very well by planting them as 
 ornamental plants in the garden during summer, where they 
 bloom profusely, and their large roots can be placed in the cel- 
 lar all winter, where they will be free from frost. (Soil No. 
 
 Cactus. — This extensive genus is interesting, and varied 
 in character and habit ; it is now divided into seven distinct 
 genera, accoi'ding to their natural appearance and disposition. 
 We will describe a few of each genus, none of which going 
 under the name of Ccictus, we will give them the six follow- 
 ing, premising that the time is not far distant when this 
 family will be successfully cultivated in every parlour-window, 
 and the whole tribe will be sought for with more avidity than 
 any other class of plants that have ever been brought to 
 notice, not even excepting the Rose. They require a dry 
 heat, and will grow either in town or country, and are com- 
 pletely adapted for the denizen amateur, and will afi"oi'd more 
 beauty and interesting display than can be imagined until 
 witnessed. 
 
 Mamilldrias, about seventy species, and are those which 
 are covered with roundish bearded tubercles, and with small 
 red n.nd white flowers. M. coccinea, M. simplex, 31. piislUa, 
 M. cdnica, M. stellata, and M. acanthbpMegma, are good 
 species, and will do well with water once a week during sum- 
 mer. • (Soil No. 15.) 
 
 Melocdctus, seven species, and are those that are roundish 
 with deep and many angles, with spines in clusters on t.He 
 top of the angle. 31. communis is the Turk's cap, named 
 
156 HOT-HOUSE — OF REPOrXINO, ETC. [^1/ay. 
 
 from having an ovate conate crown upon the top, from which 
 proceed the small red flowers. 31. macrdnthiis has large 
 spines j 3f. pi/ramiddlis is a conical growing species. These 
 require the same treatment as the last. (Soil No. 15.) 
 
 EcMnocdctm, a great number of species ; are those that 
 have many deep angles, and have a remarkable swelling with 
 each parcel of spines ; E. gihhdsus, E. crispdtus, E. recurvus, 
 E. roddnthia, and E. scopa, are curious in appearance, with 
 small white and purple flowers. These three genera in most 
 collections are not well known specifically, but it is easy to 
 discriminate with which genus they are connected. (Soil 
 No. 15.) 
 
 Cereus. — This is the most magnificent genus with regard 
 to the magnitude and beauty of the flowers, but not so 
 closely allied in character. It takes in all those of a trail- 
 ing or erect growing habit, having spines in clusters, solitary, 
 or spineless. C senMis is the celebrated monkey cactus. 0. 
 peruvidnus and C. heptagbnus grow very erect, and to the 
 height of thirty or forty feet in Peru and Mexico, where 
 they plant them close together as fences, and they are in a 
 few years impenetrable. G. jlagellifdrmis is a well-known 
 creeping flowering species, has ten angles ; will keep in a good 
 green-house, and produce in May and June a great number 
 of blooms. The petals are of a fine pink and red colour; the 
 tube of the flower is long, and will stand a few days in per- 
 fection, when others come out successively for the space of 
 two months, and during their continuance make a brilliant 
 appearance. C. grandljlbrus is the celebrated '' Night- 
 blooming Cereus." The flowers are very large, beautiful 
 and sweet-scented. They begin to open about sundowi^, and 
 are fully expanded about eleven o'clock. The corolla, or 
 rather calyx, is from seven to ten inches in diameter, the 
 outside of which is a brown, and the inside a fine straw yel- 
 low colour; the petals are of the purest white, with the stamens 
 surrounding the stile in the centre of the flower, which add 
 to its lustre, and make it appear like a bright star. Its scent 
 is agreeable, and perfumes the air to a considerable distance ; 
 but these beauties are of momentary duration. By sunrise 
 tbey fade, and hang down quite decayed, and never open 
 again.* One of these ought to be in every collection, and, 
 
 * They may be preserved if cut off when in perfection, and put io 
 
May.^ HOT-HOUSE — of repotting, etc. 157 
 
 if trained up a naked wall, will not occupy much room, and 
 grow and flower profusely. C. Ildllisoni and C. Scottii are 
 nearly alike, and have beautiful scarlet flowers : it has been 
 gratuitously (to say the least of it) called "The Scarlet Night- 
 blooming Cereus." C. speciostssimns has most beautiful 
 large flowers, about six inches in diameter ; the outside petals 
 are a bright scarlet, those of the inside a fine light purple. 
 One flower lasts a few days, and a large plant will produce 
 every year from ten to fifty flowers, and blooming from May 
 to August. C. Maynardii has very large orange-scarlet 
 flowers, about nine inches in diameter, blooming during the 
 day. C Fieldcrii is of a brilliant bluish violet colour, even 
 more of the peculiarly blue tints so greatly admired in spe- 
 ciosissirmis. C. triangiddris has the largest flower of the 
 Cactece family ; the bloom is of a cream colour, and about one 
 foot in diameter. In its indigenous state it produces a fine 
 fruit called " Strawberry Pear," and is much esteemed in the 
 West Indies as being slightly acid, and, at the same time, 
 sweet, pleasant, and cooling. 
 
 Epipliyllums are those species of the Cactege family which 
 have flat shoots, or leaves without spines; from the edges 
 of those leaves the flowers are produced. They are exten- 
 sively cultivated for their profusion of bloom, and are fre- 
 quently grafted on Cereus triangularis and Per'eskia, which 
 greatly promotes their growth, and prevents them from so 
 easily damping off' by over-watering. The original species 
 are E. specibsum, pink; E. pliylantlioides or Hooker ii, white '^ 
 E. aldtam, white; E. truncdtuni, scarlet; flowers tubular, 
 from two to three inches in diameter. The plant is of a very 
 dwarf growth, and much branched ; when in bloom, it is 
 quite a picture, and rendered more beautiful when grafted. 
 There are three varieties of truncdtuni, differing from it in 
 colour, or rather shades of colour : Altensteinii, rosy red ; 
 violacea, very beautiful violet and white; ruhens, bright red. 
 E. Ackerniania has a magnificent large crimson flower. Be- 
 sides these, there are many superb hybrid varieties, vying 
 with any of the originals. Among them are the following : 
 E. crinitum, pale yellow crimson quite new, of fine habit; 
 
 spirits of wine, in a glass va.se, made air tight. A plant flowered in 
 our collection in May, 1880. at 12 o'clock at noon — the only instance 
 of the kind we ever heard of. 
 
 14 
 
158 HOT-HOUSE — OF REPOTTING, ETC. [^May. 
 
 E. fulgens, large violet crimson firmly formed flowers, very 
 desirable; E. Grahamii, very distinct, of a brilliant rose 
 colour ; E. specibsa major, large delicate rose. E. Hihhertii. 
 E. Hobdii, E. Boydii, E. Devduxii, E. qniUardittii, E. 
 Eeastii, E. Vdndesil, E. Mayfly, E. elcgantissima, and E. 
 Naiperii, and no doubt many other varieties and subva- 
 rieties, will be continually making their appearance. All 
 the Epiphyllum tribe require a very rich open soil, not of too 
 sandy a nature, as they thereby grow to wood, and bloom but 
 sparingly — give plenty of drainage. (Soil No. 18.) 
 
 Opuntias, upwards of fifty species, and are -those whose 
 branches are in thick joints, flat, oblong, or ovate; spines 
 solitary or in clusters. Some of the plants are vei-y desirable 
 for their singular appearance, and some of them, particularly 
 0. cochiniUifera, are valuable for feeding the Cochineal 
 insect. 0. microddsys, 0. ferdx, 0. lacte-spina, 0. sericed, 
 and some others, are beautiful plants, and will grow in any 
 kind of soil, but No. 2 will suit them best. 
 
 Pereskias. — About four species, and those that are of a 
 shrubby nature, producing leaves : P. acidcdta bears a fruit 
 called, '' Barbadoes gooseberry." The flowers are very small 
 and simple, spines about half an inch long, leaves fleshy and 
 elliptical. (Soil No. 2.) 
 
 The whole of the plants in the family of Cacteo". require 
 very little water in winter, and delight in a dry, warm situa- 
 tion. They do not agree with very frequent repotting; once 
 a year to young plants, and in two or three to those that are 
 established, with the exception of the large, free-flowering 
 species, which should be repotted once in two years, and never 
 be allowed to shrink for want of moisture. 
 
 The operation of grafting is very simple, merely requir- 
 ing an incision to be made, and fitting in it a fresh cutting 
 of another kind, holding the cutting stationary in the inci- 
 sion half a minute, till the juices of the two adhere together, 
 when it may be said the union is effected, and, in a few 
 weeks, the new branches will grow freely. We have seen 
 the 31ammillaria tribe growing neatly upon the triangularis, 
 and other species of the cereus. 
 
 Ceropegia elegdnf; is the only species of any merit; it is a 
 thin-growing climbing plant, producing a great profusion of 
 very curious flowers of a greenish colour, spotted with brown ; 
 
May.'] HOT-HOUSE — OF REPOTTING, ETC. 159 
 
 the interior and tips of the corolla are set with hairs — it is of 
 very easy culture. (Soil No. 7.) 
 
 Caryopliyllus aromdticus is the clove tree of commerce. 
 The whole plant is aromatic, and closely allied to 3Iyrtns ; the 
 flowers are in loose panicles, the leaves oblong, acuminate, 
 entire. It is a fine evergreen. Pots must be well drained. 
 (Soil No. 9.) 
 
 Gentradenia. Unique plants, with reddish purple foliage, 
 they produce a profusion of delicate pink flowers; G. rosea 
 and C. florahtinda are the most esteemed ; they are of 
 dwarf habit and of the easiest culture. (Use Soil No. 2.) 
 
 Gerheras. — About twelve species of strong-growing trees, 
 full of poisonous juice. G. thevetia is an elegant plant, 
 with acuminate leaves, and large, nodding, yellow, solitary, 
 fragrant flowers, proceeding from the axil; G. ahoiiai, pro- 
 duces a nut which is deadly poison. G. odCdlam, once G. 
 mdnglias, has large star-like flowers, white, shaded with red. 
 They are principally East India plants, and require great heat. 
 (Soil No. 17.) 
 
 Glerodindrum. — This genus contains some very beautiful 
 and fragrant plants. G. frdgrans jiore pleno has a very 
 beautiful head of double white sweet-scented flowers, and 
 does very well as a green-house plant. G. squamdtum has 
 very showy scarlet flowers. G. speciosissinium, the plant so 
 glaringly figured in some of the English periodicals, is the 
 same as G. squamdtum, a plant which has been grown in this 
 vicinity fifteen or twenty years. (Soil No. 2.) 
 
 Gojfia Ardhica. — It produces the celebrated coff'ee, and is 
 a plant universally known in our collections, and of easy cul- 
 ture. The leaves are opposite, oblong, wavy and shining, the 
 flowers white, of a grateful odour, but of short duration. 
 (Soil No. 17.) 
 
 Gomhretums. — Nine species of beautiful flowering climb- 
 ing plants, standing in very high estimation. The leaves 
 of the principal part of them are ovate, acute, flowers small, 
 but on large branches, the flowers all coming out on one 
 side of the branch. They have a magnificent efi"ect. G. 
 elegans, vqA) G. formdsvm, red and yellow; G. pulchellum, 
 scarlet; G. comusum,\x^\^ crimson flowers in tufts ; G. jmr- 
 pilreum is the most splendid of the genus. It was first 
 cultivated in 1818, and so much admired that the whole of 
 the species, as soon as introduced, was extravagantly bought 
 
160 HOT-HOUSE — OF REPOTTING, ETC. \_Ma/i. 
 
 up; and none of them has retained their character, except 
 G. inirpureum, which is now called Poivrra coccinca. The 
 flowers are bright scarlet, in large branches, blooming pro- 
 fusely from April to September, and flower best in a pot. 
 When planted in the ground, it grows too much to wood, 
 carrying a few flowers. This plant ought to be in every hot- 
 house. (Soil No. 13.) 
 
 Coryphas (Large fan Palm), five species of the most 
 noble and magnificent of palms. G. amhracuUfera, the 
 fronds or leaves are palmate. In Ceylon, where the tree is 
 indigenous, they are frequently found fifteen feet wide and 
 twenty feet long. Knox says they will cover from fifteen 
 to twenty men, and, when dried, will fold up in the shape 
 of a rod, and can be easily carried about, and serve to protect 
 them from the scorching sun. C. tallera, now Tallera 
 BengaUnsis, being stronger, is of great utility for covering 
 houses. They do not grow to such immense extent in arti- 
 ficial cultivation, but require large houses to grow them. 
 (Soil No. 12.) 
 
 Grinums, about one hundred species, chiefly stove bulbs, 
 many of them beautiful. Those that are of great celebrity 
 are G. erubescens, pink ; G. scdhrum, crimson and white ; 
 G. amdbile, purple and white ; the neck of the bulb of the 
 latter is long, is easily distinguished by its purplish colour, 
 and is unquestionably the finest of the genus. Several 
 specimens of it are in our collections. Their flowers are in 
 umbels, on a stalk about three feet high ; corolla funnel- 
 shaped; petals recurved; nearly fifty flowers on each stem, 
 and a good plant will produce three stems in one year. 
 They require large pots to make them flower well, and, 
 when growing, should be liberally supplied with water. 
 (Soil No. 12.) 
 
 Grotons. — About twenty-eight species, few of them de- 
 serving cultivation ; but the genus is celebrated for its 
 beautiful G. pictus, leaves oblong-lanceolate, variegated with 
 yellow, and stained with red, flowers small green, or axillary 
 spikes. G. variegdtus, variety latifblia, is finer than the 
 original variegdtus ; the nerves in the leaves are yellow, and 
 the leaves lanceolate, entire, and smooth. To make them 
 grow freely, give them the warmest part of the hot-house, 
 and drain the pots well. (Soil No. 13.) 
 
 Gycas, four species, generally called Sago palm, as an 
 
M.ay.'\ HOTHOUSE — OE REPOTTING, ETC. 161 
 
 Encflish name. The plant from which Sago is extracted, 
 belongs to another genus, (see Sagus.) ' C. revoliita is a 
 •well-known palm, and will keep perfectly well in the green- 
 house. We have seen a beautiful specimen of it which is 
 kept every winter in the cellar ; but those that are kept so 
 cool in winter only grow every alternate year, while those 
 that are kept in the hot-house grow every year, which shows 
 that heat is their element. C. circindlis is a large-growing 
 species; the fronds are much longer, but not' so close and 
 thick. C. glatica is a fine species : the foliage is sfightly 
 glaucous. They require plenty of pot-room, are much in- 
 fested with the small white scaly insect, and ought to be fre- 
 quently examined and carefully washed as prescribed in 
 January. (Soil No. 12.) 
 
 Cypripedium insigne is a very beautiful nepal species of 
 this curious Ladies Slipper plant. The flowers have a waxy 
 appearance, and very much in the shape of an Indian shoe ; 
 the colours are green and purple ; it likes a moist, half- 
 shaded situation. (Soil No. l6.) 
 
 Cyrtanihera, a genus closely related to Justicia. C. mag- 
 nifica has foliage of a reddish purple colour, with heads of 
 flesh-coloured flowers blooming from August to December, of 
 very easy culture. (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 Cyrtoceras re/lexus, or Hoya coriacea, a new dwarf wax- 
 plant of magnificent appearance, either for foliage or bloom, 
 which it produces in great profusion from the axils of almost 
 every leaf; it is a native of Manilla; it grows freely in Soil 
 No. 13. 
 
 Draccenas, Dragon-tree, about twelve species of Asiatic 
 plants varied in character. D. F6rrea is plentiful in our 
 collections, and will keep in the green-house ; but the foliage 
 is not so well retained as when kept in the hot-house ; the 
 leaves are lanceolate, acute, of a dark crimson colour. D. 
 termindlis, striped-leaved ; D. frdgrans, when in bloom, 
 will scent the air for a considerable distance, leaves green and 
 lanceolate. D. margindta is rare, yet it is to be seen in a 
 few of our collections. D. stricta is now Charhcoodia'^ 
 stricta, flowers blush, and in loose panicles. D. Draco is ad- 
 mired, and the most conspicuous of the genus. (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 * In honour of Mr. Charlwood, an extensive seedsman of London, 
 who has made several botanical excursions on this continent. 
 14* 
 
"-162 HOT-HOUSE — OF REPOTTING, ETC. i^cy 
 
 Erdnthemums, about ten species. E. indcliilhim and E. 
 hlcolor are the finest of the genus ; the former is in our col- 
 lections. Plenty of heat is indispensable to make it flower 
 in perfection ; therefore it should have the warmest part of 
 the house, and it will produce flowers of a fine blue colour 
 from December to April. The flowers of the latter are white 
 and dark purple, with a few brown spots in the white : blooms 
 from April to August. Drain the pots well, and give the 
 plants little sun during summer. (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 Eugenias, about thirty species, esteemed for their hand- 
 some evergreen foliage. This genus once contained a few 
 celebrated species, which have been divided. (See Jam- 
 bosa.^ The Allspice tree, known as Myrtus Pimento , is 
 now E. Pimenta; the leaves are ovate, lanceolate, and, when 
 broken, have an agreeable scent. There are several varie- 
 ties, all of the same spicy fragrance. The plant is in very 
 few of our collections. E. frdgrans is sweet-scented ; the 
 flowers are on axillary peduncles ; leaves ovate, obtuse. 
 (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 Euphorbia (spurge), a genus of plants disseminated over 
 every quarter of the globe ; a few are beautiful, many gro- 
 tesque, and several of the most worthless M'eeds on the earth. 
 There are about two hundred species, and from all of them, 
 when probed, a thick milky fluid exudes. Those of the 
 tropics are the most curious, and very similar in appearance 
 to Cactus, but easily detected by the above perforation. 
 There is a magnificent species in our collections, which was 
 lately introduced from Mexico — (see Poinsett ia). E. splen- 
 dens flowers freely from December to May, and is of easy 
 culture. E. fulgens, same as jaqninii flora, is a plant of a 
 slender willow-looking habit, but produces a profusion of 
 flowers from the axil of each leaf, which renders it very 
 showy. The flowers of the whole genus are apetalous, and 
 the beauty of those described is in a brilliant scarlet bractea, 
 which is very persistent. They must have plenty of pot- 
 room. (Soil No. 9.) 
 
 Erythrinas (Coral tree), a genus containing about thirty 
 species of leguminose, scarlet-flowering plants. Several 
 species are greatly esteemed for their beauty and profusion 
 of flowers, which, in well-established plants, are produced 
 in long spikes. E. corallodendrum blooms magnificently 
 in the West Indies, but in our collections has never flowered. 
 
May.'] HOT-HOUSE — OP REPOTTING, ETC. 163 
 
 Perhaps if it were kept dry during its dormant season, •which 
 is from November to January, and when growing greatly 
 encouraged, it might produce flowers. E. apecibsa is a splen- 
 did flower, leaves large, ternated, and prickly beneath ; stem 
 prickly. E. pnhescens is valued for its large, peculiar brown 
 pubescent leaves. E.princeps is quite a new species, and is 
 represented as being the finest of all the Erythrinas, and 
 exhibits its rioh crimson flowers in great profusion; to make 
 them grow well and bloom freely, they require plenty of pot- 
 room J indeed, while in a growing state, they should be re- 
 potted every month. In regard to E. herbdcea, which is a 
 native of the Carolinas, and frequently treated as a hot-house 
 plant, it is our opinion that it would be more perfectly grown 
 if planted about the first of the month in the garden ; and, 
 wheu growing, if well supplied with water, it would flower 
 from July to September. About the first of November lift . 
 the roots and preserve them in half dry earth. E. hinrifdlia 
 and E. cristagdlli are likewise often treated as hot-house 
 plants, and in such situations they cast prematurely their first 
 flowers by the confined state of the air. They will keep in 
 perfect preservation during winter in a dry cellar, half covered 
 with earth, or entirely covered with half dry earth ; conse- 
 quently, the best and easiest method of treatment is to plant 
 them in the garden about the first of May, and, when grow- 
 ing, if the ground becomes dry, give them frequent waterings. 
 They will flower profusely three or four times in the course of 
 the summer. 
 
 We freely recommend the last species to all our patrons, 
 confident that it will give ample satisfaction, both in profusion 
 of flower and beauty of colour. The soil they are to be 
 planted into should be rich and well pulverized ; or, if they 
 are kept in pots, they must be enlarged three or four times, 
 when they are in a growing state, to make them flower per- 
 fectly; otherwise they will be diminutive. (Soil No 13.) 
 
 Ficus, Fig-tree, a genus containing about fifty hot-house 
 species, besides several that belong to the green-house : greatly 
 admired for the beauty of their toliage. A few of them are 
 deciduous, and all of the easiest culture. We have seen plants 
 of F. eldstica hung in the back of the hot-house, without the 
 smallest particle of earth, their only support being sprinklings 
 of water every day. F. b7-dssi and F. macroplitjlla are the 
 finest-looking species that have come under our observation ; 
 
164 HOT-HOUSE — OF REPOTTING, ETC. [_^i(*ff- 
 
 the leaves of both are very large and shading, occupying con- 
 siderable space. In small collections, F. indlca and F. nltida 
 are desirable; F. repens is a climbing plant. (Soil No. 13.) 
 
 Franciscea, a new genus of plants from South America, 
 containing about four species of profuse-blooming plants. 
 F. Hopeana and F. latifblia are generally known ; the latter 
 possesses all the combined fragrance of the jasmine and 
 jonquil; the flowers are one inch in diameter, of a rich purple, 
 fading to pure white, and blooms the whole winter. (Soil 
 No. 9.) 
 
 Gardenias, a genus containing about seventeen species, 
 several of them very popular in our collections, going under 
 the name of Cape Jasmine, which do well in the green-house 
 (see May). The species requiring this department, and de- 
 serving attention, are G. Sherbournii, with large spotted 
 flowers; G, Stanleyana, flowers of a greenish white colour, 
 nine inches long, spotted with brown, splendid; they require 
 to have the pots well drained. (Soil No. 13.) 
 
 Gcissomeria longiflbra. This is a new genus, and closely 
 allied to Ruellia. The species alluded to is a free flower, 
 blooming from January to May, in close spikes of a scarlet 
 colour, leaves opposite, ovate, elongate and shining ; the plants 
 ruust be well drained, and in summer kept from the direct 
 influence of the sun. (Soil No. 2.) 
 
 Heliconia hraziliensis. This very splendid plant is nearly 
 related to StrclUzia, and in splendour surpasses it. The 
 brilliant scarlet sheath that envelops the flowers contrasts 
 most admirably with its rich green leaves. Give plenty of 
 drainage to the pots, and, when the plants are growing, give 
 a liberal supply of water. (Soil No. 17.) 
 
 Hcliotrbpiums, about twelve species, of little merit, except 
 H. peruvianum, H. intermedia, H. valitariana, pale bluish 
 white ; 11. Jieur de Liege, represented as yellow, but is only 
 a very dull white, with a faint yellow eye ; these are all very 
 agreeably scented, especially the two former, which are uni- 
 versal favourites. (Soil No. 3.) 
 
 Hibiscus. — This genus affords many fine species and varie 
 ties of plants for the hot-house, besides others for every de 
 partraent of the garden. The most popular in our collec- 
 tions of the hot-house is H. rosa sinensis, with its varieties, 
 which are magnificent, and flower profusely from February 
 to September. The single or original species is also beauti- 
 
May-I HOT-HOUSE — OF REPOTTING, ETC. 165 
 
 ful ; the vnrieties are H. rbsa sinensis ruhro pUnus, double 
 red ; H. r. s. cdrnea plenus, double salmon ; ff. r. s. varie- 
 gdtus, double striped ; striped on the back of the outside 
 petals; //. r. s. Jiavn plenus, or carnea, double buff; H. r. 
 s. latea plenus, double yellow, or rather sulphur. The plants 
 grow freely, and produce their flowers three or four inches 
 in diametei', from the young wood ; the leaves are ovate, 
 acuminate, smooth, entire at the base, and coarsely teethed 
 at the end. All the varieties are of the same character, and 
 highly deserving of a situation in every collection. There 
 is said to be a double white variety, which we doubt. S. 
 mutabilis fibre pleno is a splendid plant, of strong growth, 
 and will, when well established, flower abundantly, if the 
 wood of last year is cut to within a few eyes of the wood of 
 the previous year ; the flowers are produced on the young 
 wood, and come out a pale colour, and change to bright red, 
 and about the size of a garden Provins rose ; leaves downy, 
 cordate, angular, five-lobed, acuminate, and slightly in- 
 dented. //. liUii-flbrus is a new highly esteemed species; 
 the flowers are various in colour, being pink, blush, red, and 
 purple. The leaves vary in character, but are generally 
 cordate, crenate, acuminate ; the petioles are brown, and the 
 whole slightly hirsute ; is deciduous, and requires to be kept 
 in the warmest part of the house. (Soil No. 9.) 
 
 Hoyas, wax-plant, twenty species. All of them are climb- 
 ing succulents, reqairing plenty of heat and little water. M. 
 canwsa is a fine flowering species, and known in our collec- 
 tions as the wax-plant; the leaves are green and fleshy; 
 the flowers are mellifluous, five-parted, and in pendulous 
 bunches, slightly bearded, and have every appearance of a 
 composition of the finest wax; of a blush colour. H. cras- 
 si/blia, If. grandifiora, brown flowered, H. hella, variegated, 
 H. Cunninghamii and JI. imperialis are all well worthy of 
 cultivation. (Soil No. 2.) 
 
 Ipoma'as, a genus of tropical climbing plants, nearly allied 
 to Coni;olvulus, but of greater beauty. /. Jdlapa is the 
 true jalap of the druggists, but not worthy of any other re- 
 mark. I. Horsfdllia has brilliant rosy crimson flowers, 
 which it is almost entirely covered with from December to 
 May. /. rugosa has a profusion of large rosy lilac flowei's.. 
 /. muUlflura, blush and lilac. I. Learii produces a profu- 
 sion of large blue flowers ; they are all very showy and beau- 
 
166 HOT-HOUSE — OP REPOTTING, ETC. [-^Vay 
 
 tiful ornaments for either tlie hot-house or the flower-garde a. 
 (Soil No. 13.) 
 
 Ismene amdncaes, or Pancratium amdncaes. This pro- 
 fuse yellow-flowering bulb is richly deserving of cultivation, 
 and should be kept in the house all summer, repotting it as 
 often as the roots touch the interior side of the pot, giving it 
 plenty of water when in a growing state ; but when dormant, 
 it must be kept dry till it off"ers to grow : when well treated, 
 it will bloom repeatedly during summer. (Soil No. 12.) 
 
 Ixbras, a genus of fine flowering plants, and does extremely 
 well in our collections in comparison to the state they are 
 grown in England. The genus specifically is much confused 
 among us, either from error originating with those who 
 packed them for this country, or after they have arrived. 1. 
 2:>uqjurea, leaves oblong, ovate, blunt; flowers crimson: I. 
 crocLita, leaves oval, lanceolate, narrowing toward the stem, 
 smooth underside of the leaf; the nerves are very percep- 
 tible; flowers safi"ron-coloured, and very profuse. /. rosea, 
 leaves large, regular oblong, a little acute, very distant on 
 the wood, central nerve strong; flowers rose-coloured in large 
 corymbs, branching finely; /. handhuca, leaves very close to 
 the stem, ovate, acuminate; nerves straight, middle nerve 
 (Stronger than any other of the genus; flowers scarlet. /. 
 bldnda, leaves small, lanceolate, ovate; flowers red, cymes 
 branching in three. /. diclwiima, leaves largest of the genus, 
 ovate, acuminate, undulate footstalk three-eighths of an 
 inch long; whereas, none of the leaves of the other species 
 have footstalks of any length ; it is now called /. undiddta ; 
 flowers are white, leaves ovate, elongate, sessile ; I. coccinea, 
 flowers scarlet, in crowded corymbs. /. javonica, similar to 
 coccinea in habit and form, with orange flowers. I. salici/olia, 
 is willow-leaved, as its name implies, flowers scarlet orange. /. 
 Favetta, the flowers are white and sweet-scented, the leaves of 
 all the species are opposite ; there are a few other species that 
 we are not thoroughly acquainted with, but have been thus 
 explicit to prevent error as far as possible in this beautiful 
 genus. They are all evergreen, low-growing shrubs; the 
 plants grow best in Jersey black sandy earth, but flower most 
 abundantly with Soil No. 10. 
 
 Jmnhosdx, about twelve species, which have been princi- 
 pally taken from Eugenia, and contains its finest plants, and 
 is a splendid genus of evergreen shrubs. E. Jdmbos is now 
 
Mai/.^ HOT-HOUSK — OF REPOTTING, ETC, 167 
 
 Jamhbsa vulgaris, which flowers and fruits freely in our hot- 
 houses. Xlie fruit is about an inch in diameter, eatable, and 
 smelling like a rose, hence called " Rose Apple." The petals 
 of all the species are simple, and may rather be considered 
 the calyx j the beauty of the flowers is in the many erect 
 spreading stamens, either straw, white, rose, or green colour. 
 J. malaccensis, Malay Apple, is greatly esteemed for the de- 
 lightful fragrance of its fruit. We frequently see J. pnrjnt^ 
 rdscens, which is a native of the West Indies, going under J. 
 m., which is an Asiatic species, with white flowers and entire 
 oblong leaves ; whereas, the leaves of J. p. are small, ovate, 
 acuminate; the young shoots and leaves are purple. J. ma- 
 crophi/lla, white, and J. amplexicauh's, green, have very long 
 oblong, lanceolate leaves, and are of a strong, woody habit. 
 They are all easy of culture. (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 Jasmlnum, Jasmine, is a favourite genus of shrubs for the 
 exquisite fragrance of its flowers, of which none are more 
 delightful than J. sdmhac or Arabian Jasmine. There are 
 two other varieties of it, J. s. multiplex, perfectly double ; 
 and J. s. ti-ifoliatian, double Tuscan Jasmine or Grand 
 Duke; J. s. Maid of Orleans, large, very double, like a very 
 perfect white rose, and exquisitely fragrant. There is also a 
 semi-double variety in cultivation. J. multifibrum is a pro- 
 fusely flowering and beautiful species. There are several 
 others, all with white flowers, a!ad generally easy of culture. 
 (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 Jdtropha, Physic-nut, is a genus of six strong-growing 
 shrubs, natives of the West Indies. J. multifida and J. 
 pandura'fdlia have the handsomest foliage, and both have 
 scarlet flowers ; the appearance of the foliage of this genus is 
 the only object : the flowers are small, in coarse disfigured 
 panicles, and several of the species have not been known to 
 flower in artificial cultivation. The seeds of J. ciircas are 
 often received from the West Indies ; the leaves are cordate, 
 angular and smooth. J. manihot, now Manihot cannah\na, is 
 the Cassada root, the juice of which, when expressed, is a 
 strong poison. They are all easy of culture; want of strong 
 heat in winter will make them cast their leaves, but docs them 
 ^no other injury. (Soil No. 17.) 
 
 Justicia. A few species of this genus are fine showy hot- 
 house plants. J. carneu, flesh-colour flowers in large spikes, 
 very fine, blooming nearly the whole season. J. coccinea has 
 
168 HOT-HOUSE — OF REPOTTING, ETC. [May. 
 
 large terminal spikes of scarlet flowers, blooming from De- 
 cember to March, and is a very desirable plant, o4 easy cul- 
 ture, and should be in every collection ; it is apt to grow 
 spindly, if not kept near the glass. I. picta, with its varieties, 
 I. lucida, and I. calyctrlcha, are fine shrubby species. I. 
 speciosa is a beautiful profuse purple flowering plant. (Soil 
 No. 11.) 
 
 Lmitdna, a genus of twenty species, all free-flowering 
 shrubs; the flowers are small, in round heads blooming from 
 the axils, in yellow, orange, pink, white and changeable colours; 
 principally of a rough, straggling growth, and are not esteemed. 
 However, L. sello'i, light purple; L. rmitdhilis, yellow, 
 orange, and pink ; L. hicolor, white and pink, and fj. fucdta 
 (or Dougldsii of some), lilac and white ; L. rosea, white, 
 changing to rose; L. Mexicana, very rich orange, one of the 
 finest. These are very handsome growing plants, and will 
 even keep in a good green-house; but in such case will only 
 bloom in summer. They will not bear a strong fumigation ; 
 therefore, when the hot-house is under that operation, they 
 must be set down in the pathway, or other low part in the 
 house. (Soil No. 9.) 
 
 Lasiandra, a genus related to melastoma, of which there 
 are several very handsome species. L. splendens, with 
 hirsute rich crimson foliage and brilliant purple flowers, 
 blooming from January to May. L. Benthamiana, with very 
 elegant foliage and rich bluish purple flowers, grows freely in 
 Soil No. 1. 
 
 Latdnias. This genus contains three species of handsome 
 palms. L. harhbnica is one of the finest of the Pahna?, not 
 growing to great magnitude ; the leaves or fronds are plaited 
 flabelliform, leaflets smooth at the edge, footstalk spiny, and 
 the plant spreading. L. r&hra, fronds same as the former, 
 but leaflets more divided and surrulate ; footstalk unarmed : 
 foliage reddish. L. glaucophylla same as L. rubra, only the 
 foliage glaucous. They are all valuable plants, and are ob- 
 tained by seed from the East Indies. They require plenty of 
 pot-room. (Soil No. 12.) 
 
 Laurus. — This genus, though of no beauty in flower, is 
 generally admired in collections for its fine evergreen foli- 
 age, and aromatic or spicy flavour, and several trees are 
 important in medicine. The most esteemed are given to a 
 genus named Cinnamomum.^ as has been observed iu the 
 
May.'] HOT-HOUSE — OF REPOTTING, ETC. 169 
 
 green-bouse (see March). L. Chlordxylon is the Cogwood 
 of Jamaica. L. p6rsea is now Persea gratissimt, Alliga- 
 tor-pear, a fruit about tbe size of a large pear, and greatly- 
 esteemed in tbe West Indies ; tbe plant is generally known 
 in our collections. C. verum is tbe true Cinnamon of com- 
 merce. 
 
 Tbe part taken is the inside of the bark when tbe tree is 
 from five to eighteen years old. The leaves are three- 
 nerved, ovate, oblong; nerves vanishing towards tbe point, 
 bright green above, pale beneath, with whitish veins. This 
 plant ought to be kept in the warmest part of the hot-house. 
 C. cassia is frequently given under the former name, but 
 when compared, may be easily detected by the leaves being 
 more lanceolate and a little pubescent. They both make 
 handsome plants, but require great heat. Drain the pots well 
 of tbe delicate sorts. (Soil No. 13.) 
 
 Lycopodiuni, a family of dwarf mossy-like plants, admira- 
 bly adapted for shady situations amongst other plants to cover 
 pots, edgings for paths, &c. L. denticulatuvi, green. L. 
 ccesicum, blue green L. arboreum large, blue climbing, very 
 elegant. They all require an abundance of moisture and will 
 grow in any soil. 
 
 31angifera, Mango tree. There are two species. M. in- 
 dicn is in our collections, and bears a fruit which is so highly 
 esteemed in the East Indies as to be considered preferable to 
 any other, except very fine pine-apples. The leaves are 
 lanceolate, and from six to eight inches long, and two or 
 more broad. The flowers are produced in loose bunches at 
 the end of the branches, but of no beauty, and have to be 
 artificially impregnated, or it will scarcely produce fruit. 
 The shell is kidney-shaped, and of a leathery crustaceous sub- 
 stance. They contain one seed, and in their indigenous state 
 are more juicy than an apple. Drain tbe pots well, as the 
 roots are apt to get sodden from moisture. The other species 
 goes under the name of oppositifblia, but we question if it is 
 not only a variety, for it has every character of the one just 
 described. (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 Merica, a genus of hot-house plants, closely allied to Iris, 
 between which there is no distinction in the leaves. The 
 flowers of M. ccerulea are beautifully spotted with light and 
 dark blue, the scape many-flowered. M. Sahini has flowers 
 similar, but not so dark in colour. M. Northidna has splen- 
 16 
 
170 HOT-HOUSE — OF REPOTTING, ETC. [J/a?/. 
 
 did white and brown-spotted flowers, spathe two-flowered. 
 These plants, when growing, require a liberal supply of 
 water, and should be greatly encouraged by frequent potting 
 to flower well. (Soil No. 12.) 
 
 Meldstoma was once an extensive genus, on which the 
 natural order Melastomacece is founded; but is now much 
 divided into other genera contained in the natural tribe 
 Alicomece.. There are about thirteen species remaining in 
 the genus. They now display great unity of character, and 
 many of them may be considered very ornamental. The 
 finest are M. heteromalla, bluish purple, and an abundant 
 bloomer ; M. malahhdthrica, rose-coloured ; M. sanguinea, 
 lilac ; M. sjjlendens, large violet ; and 31. aspera, rose. 
 There is a plant in several of our collections known as M. 
 purpurea and 31. tetragbna, which is Osscea purpurascens ; 
 leaves ovate, lanceolate, acuminate, five-nerved, pilose ; the 
 footstalk and nerves underside of the leaf covered with 
 brown hairs ; stem four-sided ; flowers purple. All the 
 species are easy of culture. M. nepalensis is a green-house 
 plant. (Soil No. 1.) 
 
 31andevina Suaveblens, or Cliili Jasmine: this beautiful 
 climber is a native of South America; the flowers are in 
 clusters and nearly bell-shaped, white, and of exquisite fra- 
 grance; the bloom is produced on the extremity of the 
 shoots. After the flowering season, the plants should be 
 pruned back to within a few eyes of the preceding year's 
 wood. (Soil No. 13.) 
 
 31edinilla, a new family of tropical plants, magnificent for 
 the grandeur of their foliage and the profusion of pink 
 flowers, which they produce at nearly all seasons of the year. 
 M. erythrophylla, 31. radicaus, 31. Specwsa and 31. Siehol- 
 diana, are all easily cultivated. (Soil No. 12.) 
 
 31iLsa (Plantain tree), contains eight species, and is greatly 
 esteemed in the East and West Indies for the luscious sweet 
 flavour of its fruit, which can be converted into every delicacy 
 in the domestic cookery of the country. M. paradtslaca is the 
 true plantain tree, has a soft herbaceous stalk, fifteen or 
 twenty feet high, with leaves from five to seven feet long, and 
 about two feet wide. 31. sapientum is the true banana tree ; 
 habit and character same as the former, except it has a spotted 
 stem, and the male flowers are deciduous. The pulp of the 
 fruit is softer, and the taste more luscious. M. rosdcea, M. 
 
Mai/.^ HOT-HOUSE — OP REPOTTING, UTC. 171 
 
 coccinea, and M. chinensis, are more esteemed in artificial cul- 
 tivation for their flowers, and for being smaller in growth, 
 31. Cavendishii produces immense clusters of ripe and well- 
 flavoured fruit, plants only four feet and a half high ; will 
 yearly produce about eighty pounds. M. ddcca is another 
 dwarf species, and in 1838 ripened a cluster of fruit in the 
 Eoyal Botanic Gardens of Edinburgh which weighed fifty 
 pounds. These dwarf bananas are now being cultivated in 
 Europe expressly for their fruit, which is very delicious when 
 perfectly ripened. They are Chinese plants, and will soon be 
 introduced into the West India Islands, where they will 
 entirely supplant the large varieties. 
 
 Myrtus Pimenta, or, more properly, Piminta Vidijdns, is 
 the Jamaica pepper or allspice; there is no beauty in the 
 flowers — the leaves are highly aromatic, and it is a handsome 
 evergreen. (Soil No. 9.) 
 
 Nepenthes (Pitcher-plant). There are two species of 
 this plant. N. distillatdria is an esteemed and valuable 
 plant in European collections, and we are not aware of there 
 being any in this country, except in Philadelphia. The 
 leaves are lanceolate and sessile ; from their extremity there 
 is a spiral, attached to which are long inflated appendages 
 that are generally half full of water, which appears to be 
 confined within them by a lid with which the appendao-es are 
 surmounted ; hence the name of pitcher plant. "We have 
 never observed the lids close again when once open. Writers 
 have called it an herbaceous plant, but it is properly a climbing 
 shrub. The pot in which it grows should be covered with 
 moss, and the roots liberally supplied with water every day. 
 It delights to be in a moist state. The flowers are small, and 
 in long spikes. The plant is of easy culture, and even rapid 
 in growth : a plant with us only nineteen months old is now 
 five feet high. (Soil No. 5.) 
 
 Pancratium is a genus of hot-house bulbs, and now only 
 contains five species. They are all free-flowering. Several 
 of them are laandsorae and fragrant. P. maritimum and P. 
 verecundum are the finest; the flowers are white, in large 
 umbels; petals long, recurved, and undulate. P. littordlis, 
 p. speciosum, and P. caribceum, are now given to the genus 
 JTt/menocdUis, and are fine flowering species. Care must be 
 taken not to give them water while dormant. Thi soil ought 
 
172 HOT-HOUSE — OP REPOTTING, ETC. [May. 
 
 at that time to be in a half dry state. They are in flower 
 from May to August. (Soil No. 12.) 
 
 Panddnits, Screw Pine. There are about twenty species 
 in this genus, several of them very interesting, but none so 
 greatly admired as P. odoratissimus. The leaves in estab- 
 lished plants are from four to six feet long, on the back 
 and edges spiny ; are spreading, imbricated, and embracing 
 the stem, and placed in three spiral rows upon it. The 
 top soon becomes heavy, when the plant throws out prongs 
 one, two, or three feet up the stem in an oblique descending 
 direction, which take root in the ground, and thus become 
 perfectly supported. It is cultivated in Japan for its de- 
 lightful fragrance, and it is said, " of all the perfumes, it is 
 by far the richest and most powerful." P. iltilis, red- 
 spined. We question this species, and are inclined to 
 believe that it is the former, only when the plants are newly 
 raised from seed the spines and leaves are red, changing to 
 green as they become advanced in age. The plants are easy 
 of culture, and will grow almost in any soil. (Soil No. 
 
 Passijlora, "Passion-flower, so named on account of its 
 being supposed to represent in the appendages of its flower 
 the Passion of Jesus Christ." There are about fifty species, 
 all climbing plants, that belong to the hot-house. Many are 
 of no ordinary beauty • a few species are odoriferous ; others 
 bear edible fruits, though not rich in flavour. P. aldta is 
 in our collections, and greatly admired; the flowers are red, 
 blue, and white, beautifully contrasted, and flower profusely 
 in pots. P. racemSsa, red flower. P. cceriileo-racemosa, 
 purple. P. qundrancjiddris has beautiful red and white 
 flowers. The plant is ir several collections, but has seldom 
 flowered ; it requires to be planted in the ground to make it 
 flower freely, and it will also produce fruit. P. picturdta is 
 a scarce and beautiful various-coloured species. P. Jicrme- 
 sina, bright rosy crimson, and, beyond all question, the most 
 profuse flowering species now in cultivation, and will do well 
 in a good green-house. P. Loudbnii, bright crimson. P. 
 edulis is cultivated for its fruit. There are many other fine 
 species, but these are the most esteemed sorts ; and, when 
 well established, will flower profusely from May to August. 
 They are desirable in every collection, and will take only a 
 
Mai/.'] HOT-HOUSE — OF REPOTTING, ETC. 173 
 
 email space to hold them, by training the vines up the rafters 
 of the hot-house„ (Soil No. 13.) 
 
 Phoenix, Date-palm, about eight species, principally Asi-- 
 atic plants. The foliage is not so attractive as many others 
 of the palm family, but it is rendered interesting by producing 
 a well-known fruit called Date. P. dactyl\fera will do very 
 well in a common green-house. In Arabia, Upper Egypt, and 
 Barbary, it is much used in domestic economy. P. palu- 
 ddsa has the most beautiful foliage, and the best habit. The 
 flowers are dioscious. (Soil No. 12.) 
 
 Plumbago rdsea is a pretty free-blooming plant, with con- 
 tinued profusion of red flowers ; it requires plenty of heat and 
 a good drainage. (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 PlumeHas, above twenty species. Plants of a slow growth, 
 robust nature, and are deciduous. The foliage is greatly ad- 
 mired. The plants are shy to flower, but are brilliant in 
 colour. P. acuminata has lanceolate, acute leaves, flowers 
 corymbose and terminal. P. tricolor has oblong, acute, 
 veiny leaves; corolla red, yellow, and white. This and P. 
 rubra are the finest of the genus. They ought not to get any 
 water while not in a growing state. (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 Poinsettia* pulchcrrtma. When well cultivated, this ifj 
 truly the most magnificent of all the tropical plants we have 
 ever seen ; from December to April, it is crowned with 
 flowers, surrounding which are bright scarlet whorls of brac- 
 teae, frequently measuring twenty-two inches in diameter. 
 To grow it to such perfection, we treat it as follows : in April 
 we cut the young wood down to within two inches of the 
 wood of the preceding year, and reduce the ball of earth, put- 
 ting it into a smaller pot. About the end of May we plant 
 it in the open ground, in light rich soil, giving it one or two 
 waterings after planting. During summer it will grow three 
 or four feet ; about the end of September, it is carefully lifted 
 and potted into a large-sized pot, and put into the hot-house, 
 carefully shading it for a few days — when it requires no more 
 attention except a regular supply of water, and to be kept in 
 a temperature of from 55° to 75°. There is also a pale yel- 
 
 * Named by Professor Graham, of Edinburgh, in compliment to the 
 Hon. J. R. Poinsett (late Secretary of War), -who introduced the 
 plant in 1828 to this country from Mexico, while he was Minister 
 Plenipotentiary to that Republic. He also, at the same time, intro- 
 duced a rich and valuable collection of Cactse. 
 15* 
 
174 HOT-HOUSE — OF REPOTTING, ETC. [3/ay. 
 
 low bracteced variety ; but we are not aware of its being for 
 sale in this country. When the plant is grown in pots during 
 summer, it must be repotted every month to encourage its 
 rapid growth. (Soil No. 18.) 
 
 Hhdpu, a genus of palms that will grow vei'y freely with 
 heat and room at the roots, i?. JlahelUfdrmis is an erect 
 growing palm, with a spreading head. It is a native of China. 
 (Soil No. 12.) 
 
 RondeUtia specidsa is a new and rare plant, in every re- 
 spect equal, if not superior, to Ixbra cdccinea ; its large 
 corymbs of orange-red flowers have a very striking appear- 
 ance, and it is easily cultivated in soil No. 1. It should have 
 frequent repottings when growing. 
 
 Ruellia. There are a few species, very pretty flowering 
 plants, of easy culture. R. formbsa, flowers long, of a fine 
 scarlet colour; plant half shrubby. R. fulgida has bright 
 scarlet flowers on axillary long-stalked fascicles. R. persi- 
 ci/oKa, with unequal leaves and light blue flowers, is now 
 called R. anisopliylla. (Soil No. 10.) 
 
 Russelia jiincea, a slender plant of an upright habit, pro- 
 ducing, when well grown, a profusion of scarlet tubular 
 flowers, about one inch long each : it is of the easiest culture 
 in soil No. 19. 
 
 Sdgus, Sago palm. "We are of opinion that the true palm 
 from which the sago of the shops is pi'oduced has not been 
 introduced into our collections. It is very rare in the most 
 extensive collections of Europe, but it is not so fine a plant 
 as the one we have under the Sago, which is placed in the 
 natural order of Cycadece; and Sagus is in that of Palmce. 
 The finest of this genus is S. vinifera and S. Riimphii. 
 They grow to a great height; even in artificial cultivation 
 they may be seen from ten to twenty-five feet. We have not 
 introduced them here for their beauty, but to prevent error. 
 (Soil No. 12.) 
 
 Soldndra, a genus of four species, remarkable for the ex- 
 traordinary size of their flowers, and are considered beautiful, 
 >S^. grandlfibra and S. viridljibra are the best two. The 
 plants will bloom well if they are restricted in pot-room, and 
 are only introduced as being worthy of cultivation. If they 
 are repotted once in two or three years, it is sufficient, except 
 where the plants are small and want encouragement. (Soil 
 No. 13.) 
 
May."] HOT-HOUSE — oi- repotting, etc. 175 
 
 Strelifzia, a splendid genus of noble-looking plants, all of 
 which do perfectly well in the green-house, except aS'. aiigusta, 
 the flowers of which are pure white ; the leaves are very large, 
 being nearly six feet long and eighteen inches wide, and 
 assume the appearance of the Banana tree : it requires great 
 space for its roots. (Soil No. 12.) 
 
 Sfephanotis Jlorahundus, a new and splendid evergreen 
 climber, with dark green thick leaves like a luxuriant wax 
 plant, producing large bunches of pure waxy white fragrant 
 flowers ; of easy culture in soil No. 13. 
 
 Stigmaphyllon cilliatum, a very distinct climbing plant, 
 well adapted for covering rafters, columns, or trellis work, the 
 foliage is of a glossy green, and when covered with its bright 
 yellow flowers in profuse clusters, it makes a charming object. 
 (Soil No. 13.) 
 
 Sioieteiiia (Mahogany tree), the wood of which is celebra- 
 ted in cabinet work. S. mahdgoni, common. This tree 
 varies much in general appearance, according to soil and 
 situation. The leaves are pinnated in four pairs ; leaflets 
 ovate, lanceolate ; flowers small, white, in axillary panicles. 
 S. fubri/uga, leaves pinnated, in four pairs ; leaflets ellipti- 
 cal; flowers white, in terminal panicles. The wood of the 
 last is the most durable of any in the East Indies. They are 
 fine plants, and require heat and pot-room to produce flowers. 
 (Soil No. 15.) 
 
 Taherntxmontana, a genus of little beauty, except for one 
 or two species. A plant known in some collections as Nerium 
 corondrium, is now, and properly, T. corondria. The variety 
 fibre plain is the one most deserving of culture, and will 
 flower profusely from May to August ; the flowers are double, 
 white, fragrant, and divaricating. The plant will lose its 
 foliage if not kept in a strong heat; therefore place it in the 
 warmest part of the hot-house. T. densijlbra is a fine species, 
 but very rare. Drain all the plants well, and keep them in 
 the shade during summer. 
 
 Tecbma, a genus of plants closely allied to Bignbnia, and 
 are free-flowering; several of them much esteemed. 2'. mollis, 
 T. digitdta, and T. splaidida, are the most beautiful of those 
 that belong to the hot-house. They have large orange-coloured, 
 tubular, inflated, ringent flowers, in loose panicles. There is 
 a plant known in our collections as Bignbnia dans, which is 
 now T. stdns ; has pinnated leaves, with oblong, lanceolate, 
 
.!fl6 HOT-HOUSE — OF REPOTTING, ETC. [-^Ua^- 
 
 Berrated leaflets ; flowers in simple terminal raceme, and of a 
 yellow colour, and sometimes known by Ash-leaved Bignbnia. 
 It will always have a sickly aspect, if not well encouraged in 
 light rich soil. For other species, see Green-house. Drain 
 the pots well, as much moisture disfigures the foliage. (Soil 
 No. 10.) 
 
 Thrinax parvifibra is a fine dwarf palm of the West 
 Indies, with palmated fronds, plaited with stifi", lanceolate 
 segments. The plant is of easy cultivation, and will grow in 
 any soil. (Soil No. 12.) 
 
 Tlmnhergia, a genus containing six climbing plants of a 
 half shrubby nature. Some of them have a fragrant odour. 
 T. coccinea, red ; T. grandijftbra, blue ; T. frdgrans, white 
 sweet-scented ; T. aldta has pretty buff and purple flowers, 
 which are in great profusion. If sown in May, they will 
 bloom from July until killed by frost. T. chri/sops, beauti- 
 ful blue, with a dark brown eye, a plant of dwarf habit re- 
 quiring partial shade. This makes a very pretty annual in 
 the flower-garden, with its beautiful white variety, forming an 
 elegant contrast. (Soil No. 13.) 
 
 Torenia Asidfica, an exquisite tropical, soft-wooded plant, 
 producing a profusion of waxy, porcelain blue flowers, tipped 
 with rich violet purple, in constant succession, requiring par- 
 tial shade and frequent sprinklings of water over the foliage. 
 It also succeeds admirably out of doors in the summer sea- 
 son, where the situation is moist and half-shady. (Soil No. 
 
 Tradescdntia dhcolor. Purple-leaved spider wort. This 
 is an herbaceous plant, and is only cultivated for its beauti- 
 ful purple foliage. It has curious small white flowers. (Soil 
 No. 10.) 
 
 Urdnia specidsa, a gigantic-looking plant closely connected 
 to 3Iusa, from which it differs in habit by the large leaves 
 being more erect : to grow it luxuriantly, give it plenty of 
 heat, water, and pot-room. (Soil No. 12.) 
 
 Vinca rosea or Madagascar Periwinlde, makes a charming 
 winter flowering plant for the hot-house, there are three 
 varieties pure white, white with rose eye, and the purple, all 
 of the easiestculture in any soil; they require full exposure 
 to the sun and to be frequently repotted. 
 
 Zdmia, a genus of plants in the natural order of Cycadece. 
 Several species of th/:m are admired. Z. midia, Z. furfur d^ 
 
MayJ] HOT-HOUSE — OF BRINGING OUT, ETC. 177 
 
 ceay Z. Unuis, Z. integi ifblia, are the most showy that belong 
 to the hot-house. The whole genus is frequently kept in 
 this department. They are all plants of a slow growth, and 
 the beauty is entirely in the pinnated fronds, with from ten 
 to forty pairs of leaflets. The pots must be well drained. 
 (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 Those genera of plants which we have enumerated under 
 the head of repotting in this or next month, are composed of 
 the finest hot-house plants that have come under our observa- 
 tion. There are perhaps a few of them that are not to be 
 found in the United States, or even on our continent; but the 
 great object in a choice collection of plants, is to have the 
 finest from all parts of the known world. There are many 
 plants whose nature does not require much support from soil, 
 which is frequently observed in those that are mentioned. 
 And there are many hundreds of plants desirable for beauty, 
 ornament, and curiosity, which would take volumes to specify 
 and describe. In fact, every year brings many new things, 
 and frequently both 7ie%o and splendid, either in flower, fruit, 
 or foliage. 
 
 We have previously observed, that plants ought not to be 
 flooded with water when newly potted, as it saturates the soil 
 before the roots have taken hold of it; and that the best 
 draining for pots is small gravel or pot-shreds broken fine. 
 We wish it to be understood that, when plants are repotted, 
 any irregular branch or shoot should be lopped ofi" that can- 
 not be tied to advantage. And repotting may take place 
 either before or after the plants are exposed to the open air, 
 accordine: to convenience. 
 
 OP BRINGING OUT THE HOT-HOUSE PLANTS. 
 
 When the hot-house is very crowded with plants, the best 
 method to have them exposed without danger is to take out 
 those of the hardiest nature first, that have no tender shoots 
 upon them, thereby thinning the house gradually. This may 
 be done from the sixteenth to the twentieth of the month, 
 which will admit of a free circulation of air among those that 
 remain. All may be exposed from the twenty-fourth to the 
 twenty-eighth of the month. This is a general rule, though 
 in some seasons there may be exceptions. Having previously 
 
178 HOT-HOUSE OF BRINGING OUT, ETC. [jl/a^. 
 
 given all the air possible to the house, that no sudden transi- 
 tion take place, which would make the foliage brown and 
 otherwise materially injure the plants, choose calm days for 
 the removing of them. 
 
 There are few plants while in pots that agree with the full 
 sun upon them ; or, if the plants receive the sun, the pots 
 and roots ought not. The best situation for them is on the 
 north side of a fence, wall, house, or other building, where 
 they are excluded from the mid-day sun, and they should 
 stand on boards or gravel, with the tallest at the back, firmly 
 tied to a rail, or some other security, to prevent them from 
 being overturned by high winds. Make a fanciful bed, and 
 cover it with sand or coal ashes, for the reception of the 
 smaller plants, and setting them thinly and regularly thereon 
 is preferable to crowding them with the taller sorts. And 
 it may be desired to have some of the plants plunged in the 
 garden through the flower borders. Of these that are so 
 treated, the pots must be plunged to the brim, and regularly 
 turned round every two weeks, to prevent the roots from 
 running into the earth. If the roots were allowed to do so, 
 it might for the present strengthen the plant, but ultimately 
 would prove injurious. 
 
 Where a sufficiency of shade cannot be obtained, it would 
 be advisable to go to the expense of a very thin awning, 
 that would not exclude the light, but merely the powerful 
 rays of the sun, attending to roll it up every evening. Plants 
 will keep in beautiful order by the above method, which 
 amply repays for the trouble or expense. Avoid putting 
 plants under trees ; comparatively few thrive in such situa- 
 tions. 
 
 When they are thus exposed to the open air, it will be very 
 little trouble to give them a gentle syringing every evening 
 when there is no rain, and continue your usual examinations 
 for insects ; when they appear, resort to the prescribed reme- 
 dies. Green-fly will not affect them, but the thrips may. 
 (Jive regular supplies of water every evening, and again in the 
 morning to all that require it, carefully examining those that 
 are in small pots. 
 
June, Jul^.'] HOT-HOUSE — of repotting, etc. 179 
 
 SUCCULENTS, OR THE CACT^A TRIBE. 
 
 The Cereus Mammilldria, and Opilntia. Divisions of tnis 
 family are, in their indigenous state, exposed on rocks, hilly 
 lands, and arid situations, being at all times fully exposed to 
 the sun : still, with us, we find that they thrive best with a 
 partial shade, though we have frequently seen them doing well 
 when fully exposed to the influence of the sun; but where 
 they are to be kept out of doors all the season, be careful in 
 choosing for them an airy situation, and never allow the pots 
 to become saturated with moisture. 
 
 The habits of the Epiphyllum tribe are entirely different; 
 they are generally parasites, growing on the branches and 
 about the roots of decayed trees ; consequently, they are often 
 much shaded, and they evidently show it, for they still de- 
 light to be shaded from the direct rays of a noonday sun. If 
 they are kept in the house through the summer months, take 
 some whiting, and make a thin white-wash, and put it on the 
 inside of the glass, which will be found an agreeable and 
 effectual shade ; but where time and means are at hand, a 
 thin awning, of gauze or muslin, is preferable, provided it is 
 regularly rolled up when the sun is not powerful. 
 
 JUNE AND JULY. 
 
 As the plants of the hot-house are all exposed to the open 
 air, the directions will include both months. If the repot- 
 ting is over, as recommended last month, all the attention 
 they will require until the end of August is, the administer- 
 ing of water at the roots, and by the syringe overhead. It 
 will be impossible to say how great are their wants, these de- 
 pending entirely upon the nature of the plant, the situation, 
 and the season ; but never neglect to look over them every 
 evening, and after dry nights they will need a fresh supply in 
 the morning, observing to give to none except they are be- 
 coming a little dry. Make weekly examinations for insects 
 
 »)fe!8!cc Of- Hortlculturs 
 
180 HOT-HOUSE — OF PAINTIXG, ETC. [AKJUst. 
 
 of any description, and when they appear, have them instantly 
 destroyed. 
 
 Always after heavy rains look over the pots, in case watei 
 should be standing in them, vrhich would injure the roots. 
 Where any is found, turn the pot on its side, and, in a few 
 hours, examine the draining which is defective; small pots in 
 continued rains should be turned likewise. 
 
 Tie up all plants and shoots to prevent them from being 
 destroyed by the wind, and be attentive to pick all weeds 
 from the pots. Turn round all the plants occasionally, to 
 prevent them from being drawn to one side by the sun or 
 light. 
 
 AUGUST. 
 
 The plants of the hot-house that were repotted in May and 
 June, according to the directions therein given, will, at pre- 
 sent, be in an excellent state of health, provided they have 
 got at all times the requisite supplies of watering. And as 
 we already have been very explicit on that subject, more re- 
 marks now would be merely repetition. 
 
 REPOTTING. 
 
 K any of the repottings were neglected during May or 
 June, let it be done about the first of this month. Let 
 young plants that are growing freely, where the roots have 
 filled the pots, and the plants required to grow, have pots one 
 size larger. In turning out the ball of earth, keep it entire, 
 not disturbing any of the roots. 
 
 OP PAINTING, REPAIRING, AND CLEANSING THE HOUSE. 
 
 The necessary repairs of the hot-house are too often put 
 off to the last day or week ; and then with hurry are superfi- 
 cially attended to. Previous to the first of September, hav» 
 
September.'] HOT-HOUSE — OF TAKING IN THE PLANTS, l&l 
 
 all the wood-work painted (which ought to have one coat every 
 two years), and the glass all neatly repaired. Have the flues 
 and furnace examined ; plaster over all rents, and make good 
 every deficiency. Give the flue a thick coat of lime white- 
 wash. Have the walls, shelves, and staging properly painted. 
 If there is a tan-bed, have that renewed ; take out what is 
 most decayed, using two-thirds new tan, which must be dried 
 at least three days in the sun before it is housed, and carefully 
 protect it from rains. 
 
 SEPTEMBER. 
 
 DRESSING THE PLANTS. 
 
 Having last month put the house in complete ordei. all 
 that remains necessary to be attended to is the state of che 
 plants and pots, which should be regularly examined; md 
 of those where the roots fill the soil, a little may be taken off 
 the top, supplying its place with fresh earth, thereby giving 
 what is called a top-dressing. Give each that requires it a 
 sufficient rod, tying the plant neatly thereto; minutely scruti- 
 nize each for insects, and where they are detected, have them 
 eradicated. 
 
 Finally, wash all contracted foulness from off the pots, at 
 the same time pick off any decayed leaves ; thus all will be in 
 perfect order to take into the house. If any plants have been 
 kept in the hot-house during summer, they must likewise go 
 through the same operation. 
 
 OP TAKING IN THE PLANTS. 
 
 From the 16th to the 24th, according to the season, is 
 the proper time to take in the hot-house plants. It is pre- 
 ferable to have them what might be deemed a few days toc> 
 early, than have them in the slightest degree affected by 
 cold. 
 
 Commence by housing the largest first, and those that stand 
 16 
 
182 HOT-HOUSE — OBSERVATIONS. [^October. 
 
 farthest in the house, observing to place the most tender sorts 
 nearest the heat or warmest part of the house. For observa- 
 tions on them, see J/ay. In regard to arrangement, that must 
 be according to the taste of the operator. We may observe, 
 that in a small collection it is better to have them in a regular 
 than in a picturesque foi-m. A dry shelf is indispensable in 
 this department for placing on it all herbaceous plants, such 
 as Cdmia, Hedj/chium, Zhigiher, Kampferia, &c., the water- 
 ing of which by this time should be gradually suspended, 
 that they may have their required cessation to make them 
 flower well. This shelf may be in any situation ; one in 
 darkness, where other plants will not grow, will answer 
 perfectly well. If there is a bark bed, do not, until the end 
 of December, plunge any of the pots therein. If any plants 
 of the Poinsettia are in the ground, have them carefully 
 lifted and shaded from the sun. 
 
 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 The plants being now all under protection, they muet 
 have as much air as possible admitted to them every day, by 
 opening the doors, front and top sashes, closing only at night. 
 The syringings must be continued, and care taken that plants 
 of a deciduous or herbaceous nature are not over-watered. 
 The tuberous species might be kept almost dry. Some prac- 
 tical men of sound science repot these plants in this month 
 into fresh soil, and allow them to stand till January almost 
 without water. We have never adopted this method with 
 any description of plants, but do not doubt of its success with 
 that genus. 
 
 See that the ropes and pulleys of the sashes are in good 
 order, and fit to stand all winter. 
 
 OCTOBER. 
 
 Very few direc'^ions remain to be given to the department 
 of the hot-house. The supplies of water for this and the 
 
November.'] hot-House. 183 
 
 two succeeding months are, according to the state and na- 
 ture of tropical plants, more limited than at any other period 
 of the year. This is the first month of what may be called 
 their dormant state. Observe the herbaceous plants, that 
 they are set aside as soon as their foliage decays, in case of 
 being too liberally supplied with water. Airing is highly 
 essential about this period, that the plants may be gradually 
 hardened; but guard against injuring them. The tempera- 
 ture should never be under fifty degrees : when the days are 
 cool, and the wind chilling, airing is not necessary; and, when 
 air is admitted, always close up early in the afternoon, while 
 the atmosphere is warm, to supersede the necessity of fire as 
 long as possible. If, at any time, you have recourse to it in 
 this month, use it with great caution. 
 
 Examine all the shutters and fastenings, and see that they 
 are in good substantial order ; and, where deficient, repair 
 them instantly, that they may be in readiness. Remove all 
 leaves, and give syringings in the morning of sunshine days, 
 twice a week. Clear ofi", sweep out, and wash clean, that 
 every part may be in the neatest order. 
 
 The succulent tribe will not require water more than once 
 a week, or once in two weeks. If any of them have ripened 
 seeds during summer, wash such carefully from the pulp, 
 and lay them past till the first of January, when they may 
 be sown on the surface of sandy soil, and gently pressed 
 down. AYater them very carefully as they require ; cover 
 the pot with a piece or pane of glass, which will greatly 
 assist their vegetating. In a few weeks they will make their 
 appearance ; and when they are one quarter of an inch high, 
 plant them out into other pots and fresh soil. In a few 
 months they will make wonderful progress in growth, and in 
 the following year, will require to be potted singly, and treated 
 as recommended for established plants. 
 
 NOVEMBER. 
 
 The essential points to be attended to in the hot-house 
 earing this month are, Jire, air, and water. The former 
 
184 HOT-HOUSE. [^November 
 
 must be applied according to the weather, observing not to 
 allow the temperature to be under fifty degrees ; and it ought 
 not to continue long at that degree, fifty-two degrees being 
 preferable. The shutters should be on every night when 
 there is any appearance of frost, and taken off early in the 
 morning. Admit air in small portions every day that the 
 sun has any effect and the atmosphere mild, observing that 
 the temperature of the house be above sixty degrees pre- 
 vious to admission. Shut all close early in the afternoon, or 
 vhen any sudden changes occur. 
 
 OF A CISTERN AND WATER. 
 
 In watering, it is important to have the water of the 
 same temperature in this department as the roots of the 
 plants. To have this, there are two kinds of cisterns or 
 tanks that might be adopted ; one may be sunk in the house 
 under ground, either closely plastered, or lined with lead, 
 and neatly covered up, having a small perpendicular pump 
 therein, or placed so that the water could be lifted by hand. 
 The other might, where convenience will admit, be placed 
 over the furnace, either in the back shed, or inside of the 
 house, and the water could be drawn off this by a stop-cock. 
 These can be supplied, in part, with rain water, by having 
 spouts round the house to lead into the cistei'ns, supplying 
 any deficiency from the pump. Thus water of a congenial 
 temperature may be always at hand, which is of great im- 
 portance to the healthful constitution of the plants. The 
 water must now be given in moderate portions, examining the 
 plants every day. Be careful in watering bulbs, as the 
 smallest supply is sufficient for them at present. Succulents 
 will require a little every two weeks, except they are over the 
 flues, when they may have some every week. 
 
 Constantly clear off all decayed leaves, and carry them out 
 of the house, which sweep and wash clean, and keep all in the 
 neatest order. 
 
December.'] HOT- house — of shutters. 185 
 
 DECEMBER. 
 
 The uncertainty of the weather in this month requires 
 the operator to be constantly on guard, to ward off danger, 
 either from frost, snow, or cutting winds. The temperature 
 observed last month must be continued, but not exceeded, 
 which would cause premature vegetation, of which the result 
 and effects have already been observed. Always kindle the 
 fires in time, to prevent the heat from being lower than what 
 has been mentioned, lest a severe frost should take place, as 
 then a considerable lapse ensues before the fire has any effect ; 
 and if the wind blows high, the result might be injurious, 
 unless the house be very close. 
 
 OF SHUTTERS. 
 
 The benefit of these in severe weather is of material 
 service, for the preservation of an even temperature in the 
 house during the night, when changes are not observed ; but 
 they ought never to remain on through the day, when the fire 
 can be properly attended to. If the front and the lowest sash 
 of the roof are covered with those, it is generally sufficient. 
 They should be made of three-quarter inch boards, closely 
 grooved together, having a cross-bar in the centre, and one at 
 each end and each side, which will make them substantial. 
 If they are frequently painted with care, they will last many 
 years. Snow ought not to be allowed to lay on these while 
 they are on the glass, for reasons that we have assigned. 
 See January/ and February. 
 
 Some adopt double panes of glass to supersede the use of 
 shutters, which they think are attended with considerable 
 labour (at the most only fifteen minutes a day, while ?n use.) 
 
 The sash frame is made a little deeper, so as to allow half 
 an inch between the panes of glass. The one is glazed from 
 the out and the other from the inside. It appears to answer 
 the purpose tolerably well, but the glass must be both fine 
 and even on the surface, lest a lens should be produced, 
 which would scourge the plants. We are almost confident 
 that we have seen this effect in some instances. There must 
 16* 
 
186 HOT-HOUSE — AIR PLANTS. [^December. 
 
 be a small hole about an eighth of an inch in both ends 
 of each row of glass, to allow a current to dry up the 
 moisture that may arise. Double sashes during the severe 
 months are frequently used ; but shutters are preferable to 
 either. 
 
 OF PLACING BULBS, ETC., IN THE HOT-HOUSE. 
 
 If any Hi/acinths or other Dutch roots are wanted to 
 flower early, a few of them may be put in the hot-house 
 near the front glass, which will greatly tend to forward their 
 time of flowering. By having some brought in every two 
 weeks, a continued succession of bloom will be kept up. 
 
 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 If there is a tan-bed in the house, and it was renewed in 
 September, the pots should now be half plunged therein. 
 The violent heat will partly be over, and the plants are not 
 so liable to suff"er at root in this as last month. It will in 
 part prevent the plants from being afiected by sudden changes 
 of temperature. Be attentive in keeping all insects com- 
 pletely under. This is the period that these are most 
 neglected, but by attending to the modes of their destruction, 
 as already given, no species of them will either be hurtful 
 or unsightly. Syringe the plants about twice a week, and 
 always remember that decayed leaves or litter of any descrip- 
 tion, do not beautify healthy plants, neither do they form a 
 part of a well-kept hot-house. 
 
 ORCHIDEOUS EPIPHYTES OR AIR PLANTS. 
 
 Before we close the hot-house subject, it may be interest- 
 ing to some of our readers to know the nature and character 
 of a few of the most desirable of those tropical parasites that 
 have within these few years caused so much excitement in 
 Europe. In several instauces, houses upward of two hundred 
 feet long have been erected for their exclusive culture, and 
 unless they do thus have an apartment adapted to their na- 
 
December.'] HOT-HOUSE — AIR PLANTS. 187 
 
 turc, no success will attend their cultivation. They grow 
 only in a very humid atmosphere, kept at a temperature of 
 from 60° to 80°, and also in a partially shaded situation : it 
 is only under such treatment that we have had any prosperity 
 in bloomiug these peculiarly beautiful and interesting plants. 
 Annexed are the names of a few that are of the easiest culture 
 and most profuse of flower : — 
 
 Brdssia maculdta, greenish yellow, spotted with purple. 
 
 Catasetum trijidum, greenish yellow, spotted with dark 
 brown. 
 
 Cdttleya crispa, white and purple, and is considered a superb 
 plant. 
 
 Cdttleya lahidta, rose and rich purple, striped and spotted 
 with carmine. 
 
 Cdttleya Forbesii, yellow, white, green, and rose-coloured, 
 fine. 
 
 Dendrobiuni cucidlaium, rose and pale yellow. 
 
 Dendrbbium speciosum, pale yellow flowers, in great profu- 
 sion. 
 
 Epidendrum cucullatum, dark brown, with yellow, is a very 
 constant bloomer. 
 
 Gongora atropurpurea, dark purple ; the plant must be sus- 
 pended in a pot or small box. 
 
 Gongora specidsa, yellow, with black spots. 
 
 MaxiUdria Loddgesii, orange flowers in long racemes. 
 
 Maxilldria picta, yellow, beautifully spotted with red and 
 crimson ; it is in the mornings only delightfully fra- 
 grant. 
 
 Onc\dium crispum, brownish copper colour, and profuse 
 flowering. 
 
 Oncidiiwi papilio, bright yellow, spotted with rich brown. 
 
 Oncidium luridum, flowers of a brownish-green. 
 
 Rendnthera coccinea, a very superb scarlet flowering plant, 
 but does not bloom very freely; it grows in moss, 
 and must be suspended in a pot or tied to a piece of 
 stick. 
 
 StanTibp)ia grandifibra, has delicate, white, sweet-scented 
 flowers. 
 
 Stanhbpia insignis, yellow and white, spotted with purple, 
 
 and delightfully fragrant. 
 Vanda Roxbilrghn, flowers pale yellow. 
 
188 HOT-HOUSE — AIR PLANTS. \_Dectmber. 
 
 Zygdpetalums, all very beautiful flowering, generally of a yel- 
 lowish green coloui*, spotted with brown. They re- 
 quire to be kept in a hot dry atmosphere. 
 
 OrcMdeous epiphytes generally grow upon trees, in the 
 recesses of damp tropical forests, establishing themselves in 
 the forks of the branches, and even upon rocks, stones, or 
 decayed trees. Shade, therefore, is essential to their welfare j 
 Eonsequently, never permit them to be exposed to violent 
 sunshine. They require but little water at the roots, pro- 
 vided the atmosphere they grow in is very humid. The best 
 5oil for them is a sandy, turfy peat, containing a large por- 
 tion of fibrous matter; mix with this pieces of pot-shreds or 
 cork, and be careful not to place the plant deep in the pot; 
 they will also grow on blocks or sticks of wood. Although 
 we use and prefer small boxes (about six inches square) made 
 of cork, in which they grow finely and bloom profusely. 
 With some of the strong-growing kinds, we use, in addition 
 to the above soil, a little leaf-mould, using always plenty of 
 drainage. The house we cultivate them in has an eastern 
 aspect. Shade can easily be given to them by having creepers 
 trained up the rafters of the house, or an occasional large 
 plant, placed in such a situation as will afford most shade 
 during mid-day; and it must be observed, that, although the 
 plants are fond of moisture, they never thrive, except tho 
 water has a free passage from their roots. 
 
THE 
 
 AMERICAN FLOWER-GARDEN 
 DIRECTORY. 
 
 GREEN-HOUSE. 
 
 ON THE CONSTRUCTION OF A GREEN-HOUSE. 
 
 In many respects, the consti'uction of the G-reen-house 
 will be the same as the Hot-house, but might be made much 
 more an ornamental object, and could be erected contiguous 
 to the mansion-house, with large folding-doors to open at 
 pleasure, and be connected with the drawing-room or parlour. 
 The extent may vary according to the collection to be culti- 
 vated. 
 
 It was formerly the practice to build these houses with glass 
 only in front, and even to introduce between the windows 
 strong piers of brick or stone ; but this is now abolished, and 
 has given way to a more light and ornamental style, by which 
 cheerfulness and the desired utility are better consulted. 
 There should be conveniences for the admission of air in the 
 highest part of the house, that a free current may be obtained 
 whenever desired, wh'ch is an essential point. 
 
 (189) 
 
190 GREEN-HOUSE. [January. 
 
 GREEN-HOUSE. 
 
 JANUARY. 
 
 This compartment requires particular attention, in order 
 to preserve the plants in good health, and carry them through 
 this precarious season of the year. A little air nnist be ad- 
 mitted at all convenient times. An hour or two at mid-day 
 will be of the utmost importance in drying up damp and 
 clearing off stagnated air, which is a harbour for every corrup- 
 tion. The top sashes being let down or turned a few inches, 
 in mild days (that is, when there are not high and cutting 
 winds), from ten or eleven o'clock to two or three,, according 
 to the intensity of the frost, will renovate the interior air of 
 the house and harden the plants. When the weather will 
 permit, let the front sashes be opened about one inch or 
 more. An assiduous, experienced hand will never omit an 
 opportunity. 
 
 With regard to fire heat, the temperature must be regulated 
 to suit the nature of the plants in a general sense ; so let the 
 mercury, or spirits of wine, of Fahrenheit's thermometer, be 
 from 35° to 50° ; if it begins to fall, give a little fire heat. 
 No doubt we have seen the thermometer much lower in the 
 green-house than the above, even as low as 24° without any 
 immediate injury; but it was in an extensive collection, where 
 the most hardy of the plants were selected into one house. 
 Many boast how little fire they give their green-house, and 
 how cold it is kept, not observing the miserable state of their 
 plants — inexperience causing them to think that the least fire 
 heat will make them grow, and would rather look on naked 
 stems than healthy plants. The above temperature will not, 
 in exotics, cause premature vegetation, but will cause the 
 plants to retain the foliage requisite to vegetative nature. A 
 high temperature is not necessary for the generality of green- 
 house plants ; on the contrary, it might very much injure 
 them 
 
# 
 
 January.'] GREEN-HOUSE — camellia japonica. 191 
 
 or watering. 
 
 In this month very little is requisite, and must be given 
 *vith great caution. Few plants will require much and some 
 aardly any ; but all must be attended to, and have their wants 
 supplied. Some will need it twice, some once a week, and 
 some in two weeks, according to their shrubby and woody 
 nature. Herbaceous and deciduous plants will j^ldom need 
 water. Perhaps, from the shedding of the foliage to the com- 
 mencement of vegetation, three .or four times will be sufficient. 
 Particular attention should be paid to the state of health and 
 of growth, in which the plants respectively are, in the appli- 
 cation of water : otherwise much mischief may be done, and 
 many entirely ruined. 
 
 G-reen-house plants being now in an absolutely inactive 
 state, require a little more water than merely to keep the earth 
 about their roots from becoming perfectly dry, by occasionally 
 applying a very small quantity at the root ; and, if done with 
 a watering-pot, as described under this head in the hot-house 
 of this month, very little will be spilt in the house to increase 
 dampness, which if it does appear, by any of the leaves of 
 the plants becoming musty, they must be instantly picked off; 
 and, if it increases, give a little fire and air. Succulent plants 
 will not need any water during this month, unless omitted in 
 December. 
 
 camellia japonica. 
 
 This magnificent and attractive flower, with all its splendid 
 varieties, will, about this time, begin to open its beautiful 
 flowers. But for this admired genus of plants, our green- 
 houses at this season would be void of allurement. It is, in 
 this country, subject to the red spider, and more especially 
 in this city, which appears to be from the nature of the air. 
 The effects of the spider on these plants, if not prevented, 
 would prove fatal ; as, from appearances, many have died by 
 it in several collections. If it has reached a great extent, 
 the leaves are brownish, having the appearance of being de- 
 cayed or scorched with the sun. In taking hold of the leaf 
 
192 GREEN-HOUSE — OF CAPE BULBS, ETC. [January. 
 
 it feels soft, and altogether seems to have lost its nutritive sub« 
 stance ; and when the young foliage expands, it becomes 
 covered with dark brown spots, and finally very much dis- 
 figured ; and when in this state the red spider is severe, and, 
 ultimately, death ensues. 
 
 If any of the plants are affected as above described, take a 
 sponge, and wash every leaf minutely with soft water, and 
 syringe them with water three or four times a week, which 
 will clean them. All the young foliage will be healthy, and 
 that which Jjas been affected will fall off; however, prevention 
 is better than cure ; and if the Camellias are properly syringed 
 every evening during summer, p,nd once or twice a week during 
 winter, they will never be subject to the ravages of that de- 
 structive insect. 
 
 Tie up any of the flowers that are expanded, to stakes, 
 in case of accident ; and, in syringing, observe not to let any 
 water fall on the flowers, as it causes premature decay and 
 change of colour. 
 
 OF ORANGES, LEMONS, ETC. 
 
 As there will perhaps be more leisure in the green-house 
 this month than in any other during the winter, it is pre- 
 sumed that there will not be a moment lost. If ^ny of the 
 trees are infested with insects, these, being now in their in- 
 active state, may be more easily destroyed than at any other 
 time. It is the brown scaly insect that generally infests 
 them. For treatment, .see Hot-liouse, January. The plant 
 or tree after being washed, before it becomes dry, will re- 
 quire to be syringed with water, otherwise the dust will ad- 
 here to the glutinous particles of the soap. Set the plant in 
 an airy situation to dry, in case of damp. There are several 
 others subject to this insect, such as Myrtles, Oleas, Olean- 
 ders, &c., which treat in the same manner. Be careful that 
 these trees are not over-watered; if the soil is moist, it is 
 sufficient. 
 
 OP CAPE BULBS, ETC. 
 
 If tnere are any out of the ground, it is time that the 
 whole were potted, such as Lachendlia, Wachenddrjia, 
 
February/.'} green-house. 193 
 
 Eucomis, Ixia, Gladiolus, with several others. Keep them 
 in the shade until they begin to grow ; then put them on 
 shelves near the light. Those that are growing must be kept 
 in front of the house, to prevent them being weak. Waclien- 
 dorfia has a beautiful large red tuberous root, and requires a 
 pot about six or seven inches deep. 
 
 OF HYACINTHS AND OTHER BULBOUS ROOTS. 
 
 All these roots must be carefully examined. In case slugs 
 or snails are preying upon the embryo of the flower, some of 
 those that are farthest advanced may be put for a few weeks 
 in the hot-house. It will greatly accelerate their flowering j 
 but they must be brought out again before the florets expand, 
 and carefully tied up, leaving room for the increase and ex- 
 tension of the flower-stem. Grive them plenty of water, and 
 if saucers can be placed under them to retain it, it will be of 
 advantage. Change the water every week on those that are 
 in glasses, and keep all the growing bulbs near the light. 
 Narcissusj Jonquils, &c., may be similarly treated. 
 
 FEBKUARY. 
 
 The directions given last month respecting the airing and 
 temperature of the house, may still be followed, difi"ering only 
 in admitting air more freely as the season advances, and ac- 
 cording to the power the sun has on the glass, which now 
 begins to be considerable. 
 
 If the weather is tolerably mild, air may be admitted in 
 time of sunshine, so as to keep the mercury as low as 50°, 
 but be cautious in cold, cloudy, frosty weather. It is a prac- 
 tice with many in such weather to keep the shutters on the 
 house night and day for the space of a week, and sometimes 
 more, never entering it ; and, when the weather has induced 
 them to look in, they find that the frost and damp have made 
 many lifeless subjects ; whereas, had the house and plants 
 17 
 
194 GREEN-HOUSE — OP CAPE BULBS, ETC. \^Fehr%iari/ 
 
 been attended to, in taking off the shutters, and giving a 
 little fire when requisite, all would have been in safety, and 
 many plants, that cannot be replaced, still in the collec- 
 tion. 
 
 When watering, strictly adhere to the direction of last 
 month, except with Geraniums, and other soft-wooded plants, 
 which require a little more water towards the end of the 
 month. If the days are mild and sunny about eight or nine 
 o'clock in the morning, all the plants would be benefited by 
 a gentle syringing, which retards the progress of insects, and 
 accelerates vegetation. 
 
 Succulents, such as Cactus, MesemhrT/dnthemum, Aloes, 
 Furcrceas, Crdssulas, Cotyledons, &c., will very seldom need 
 water ; at the same time keep them from getting as dry as 
 powder. 
 
 OF ORANGES, LEMONS, ETC. 
 
 Similar treatment to that recommended last month will 
 do for this. Where the soil in the tubs or pots requires to 
 be enriched, take of bone-dust or shavings, and fresh sheep 
 dung, equal quantities ; put the mixture into a large tub or 
 barrel, until one-third full; and fill it up with water. Stir 
 it well two or three times every day till it ferments, then 
 give each tree one good watering with the compound. Con- 
 tinue to mix up afresh, and let it stand another week, and 
 so on until all the trees requiring it are watered. This 
 ■watering will greatly enrich the soil and invigorate the 
 roots. 
 
 OP CAPE BULBS, ETC. 
 
 The bulbs of Ferrdria undulata, and F. antlierbsa, that 
 were taken out of the pots in October, will now require to 
 be planted. Five-inch pots will be large enough for good 
 roots. The grand criterion for planting bulbs is when there 
 is a protuberant appearance about the bottom, or root pari 
 of the bulb, showing by a principle of nature the true time 
 for transplanting. When bulbous roots of any description 
 appear above ground, they ought to be placed in an airy 
 
February.'] GREEN-HOUSE — CAMELLIA JAPONICA. 195 
 
 situation. They are very frequently placed under other 
 plants by the inexperienced, until they show their flowers, 
 and then brought to the light, having weak flowers, and com- 
 paratively of momentary existence. 
 
 Hyacinths, Narcissus, Gladiolus, Ixia, &c., having flower- 
 stems, ought to have support, to prevent accident, especially 
 the two former ; keep them nigh the glass, and water freely. 
 Change the water regularly once or twice a week in the bulb 
 glasses, observing that their roots are never allowed to become 
 matted with fetid water. Any of the above plants that are 
 in flower might, if desired, be taken into the drawing-room or 
 parlour, washing the pots clean, and putting saucers under 
 them, keeping therein a little water. Twice a week the de- 
 cayed ones can be taken out, and supplanted with those that 
 are coming into bloom. 
 
 CAMELLIA JAPONICA 
 
 Will, in this month, show a profusion of flowers; and, 
 where there is a variety, they have truly a magnificent ap- 
 pearance. From a good selection, endless varieties, by seed, 
 of exquisite beauty, might be obtained by attention to the 
 following rule : The best to select for bearing seed are, Car- 
 nea, Donkelaari, Ruhricaulis, Tricolour, Ki7ig, and Wara- 
 tah, and, in many instances, the pistil, or pistillum of Varie- 
 gata, Regalis, Alexina, and Miss Percival are perfect, with 
 several others. When any of the above are newly expanded 
 ( Waratah is most perfect about one day before full expansion), 
 take a fine camel-hair pencil, and put it gently on the farina 
 or pollen, from the double sorts, which is a yellow substance 
 on the anthers, and, when ripe, appears in thousands of 
 small particles. Then, with this on the pencil, dust it lightly 
 on the stile of those intended to carry seed. Between the 
 hours of ten and twelve in the forenoon is the most propex 
 time for the operation ; the seed will be ripe in September or 
 October, which will be taken notice of, and directions given. 
 For other particulars on cleaning and syringing, see January 
 under this head. 
 
196 GREEN-HOUSE — OF SHIFTING, ETC. [February 
 
 OF SHIFTING, ETC. 
 
 The best time to re-pot Camellias is in September or 
 October. The most general time in shifting Camellias is in 
 August, indiscriminately with other plants j and, if then 
 not very gently handled, bad roots eventually are produced. 
 Frequently very fine plants have been killed by probing, and 
 breaking the young fibrous roots, thus causing mortification. 
 
 In the process, do not, by any means, break or bruise any 
 of the roots; and do not give large pots with the idea of 
 making them grow fast ; it acts on most plants diametrically 
 opposite to what is intended. A pot one or two inches 
 wider and deeper than the one they have been in previously, 
 is sufficient. Healthy plants, under five feet, will not require 
 shifting oftener than once in two years ; from five feet up- 
 ward, in three or four years, according to the health of the 
 plants. This treatment, in the opinion of some, will appear 
 insufficient for their support : it will be found enough with a 
 top-dressing every year to keep them in a healthy flowering 
 condition, the soil being according to our description. 
 
 On turning the plant out of the pot, it may easily be ob- 
 served if the soil has, in any degree, been congenial to it ; for, 
 if so, the roots will be growing all round the ball ; if other- 
 wise, no roots will appear. 
 
 Therefore, with a blunt-pointed stick, probe away all the 
 bad earth until you come to the roots ; then put the plant in 
 a pot about one inch in diameter larger than the combined 
 roots, previously putting a few small pieces of broken pots, or 
 clean gravel, to drain off the superabundant moisture, and 
 give light waterings, as the roots in this case will grow but 
 slowly. 
 
 Top-dress all that do not require shifting, probe out the soil 
 down to the roots, and by the side of the pot, taking care not 
 to break the fibres; then fill up with fresh earth, watering 
 gently with a rose on the watering-pot to settle it. 
 
March.'] GREEN-HOUSE. 197 
 
 OF CLEANING, ETC. 
 
 If any of the plants require cleaning, either by fumigation 
 or otherwise, let it be done before the young foliage appears, 
 according to the directions heretofore given. Likewise tie 
 neatly all that require it, clean and top-dress those that will 
 not be shifted, having every plant, and all in the green-house, 
 in perfect order before the throng of spring commences. The 
 weather will now admit, in very fine mornings, of the plants 
 being syringed, which may be done between seven and eight 
 o'clock; and the path or pavement should be washed out once 
 a week, which is a great improvement to the appearance of 
 the whole interior. 
 
 In winter, when any glass is broken it should be imme- 
 diately mended. Brokrn glass in cold nights causes a very 
 destructive current of air. It should always be made water- 
 tight, for if the drops fall into the pots upon the roots, they 
 will frequently prove fatal to the plants ; therefore care ought 
 to be taken during rain to remove thdse that stand in any 
 manner exposed. 
 
 MARCH. 
 
 The plants in this compartment will begin to assume a 
 diflferent aspect, and air must be admitted every day if practi- 
 cable, giving large portions in sunshine by the sashes regu- 
 larly over all the house, opening those of the front a little, 
 and likewise the doors in fine mild days. To perform this 
 judiciously, give a little about eight or nine o'clock, more at 
 ten, and the whole from eleven till twelve o'clock, shutting 
 again by degrees. 
 
 Fire heat will now be dispensed with, but in frosty nights 
 have the shutters on about sundown. The sun is now power- 
 ful, and the house can be early shut up in the afternoon, and 
 will gain as much natural heat as will keep up the required 
 temperature, viz., 36° to 45°. Perhaps there may be uncom- 
 17* 
 
198 GREEN-HOUSE — OF ORANGES, ETC. \_March 
 
 monly cold weather : at such times be attentive to ward off 
 danger by applying artificial heat. 
 
 OE WATERING. 
 
 Look over the pots and tubs at least every alternate day, 
 to see where water is wanted. In watering, too much 
 caution cannot be used, especially during winter and the 
 commencement of spring. It was observed last month what 
 would be the effect of too much water. It may be remarked, 
 that if the exterior of the pot is very damp, the soil inside is 
 too wet, and in that state, is uncongenial to vegetation, which 
 now begins to start, and ought, by all possible means, to be 
 encouraged, which we do very effectually with Guano water 
 once a week, for a few weeks, using about one pound to five 
 gallons of water, allowing it to stand twenty-four hours, and 
 stir it up before using. If you are troubled with worms in 
 the pots, give one or two waterings with lime-water, one 
 pound of lime in four gallons of water; allow it to stand 
 twelve hours to settle, pour the clear water into another 
 vessel, and use it only. People may be frequently observed 
 watering all plants indiscriminately, not taking the trouble to 
 look into or feel the state of the soil in the pots or tubs, and 
 thus, by going over them three or four times in this manner, 
 will be sufficient to put the plants in such a state that they 
 will not be recruited for some months. Hence the reason of 
 so many sickly plants. 
 
 Camellias, where there are collections, will continue to 
 flower. Treat them according to the directions given last 
 month. 
 
 ORANGES, LEMONS, ETC. 
 
 Be sure they are not too wet, as too much humidity as 
 well as aridity causes their foliage to have a yellow appear- 
 ance, with this difference, that in the former case the foliage 
 is the same to the touch as when green ; but in the latter, it 
 is soft and dry. We have observed trees in tubs and half- 
 barrels, with holes all round their sides. This is a ludicrous 
 idea, having the appearance of keeping the water from reach- 
 
March.l GREEN-HOUSE — GERANIUMS. 199 
 
 ing the bottom of the tub or barrel. For the best kind of tub 
 for large trees, see August under this head. If any of the 
 trees have stunted, straggling, or irregular heads about the 
 end of this month or beginning of nest, head or cut them 
 down to the shape desired. The old wood will push fresh 
 shoots. You may cut close, or shorten less or more, according 
 as you desire young shoots to arise ; at the same time obsei've 
 that you do not cut below the graft or inoculation. Trees 
 thus headed down should be kept until May, and then planted 
 in the garden (see May), or, if that cannot be done, turn it 
 out, and reduce the ball of earth by probing with a pointed 
 stick all round the sides and bottom of the ball, cutting off 
 any very matted roots. If any of the roots are decayed, cut 
 them into the sound wood. By being thus reduced, it will 
 go into the same pot or tub, if not a less one. Having a good 
 supply of fresh earth ready, put a few inches in the bottom of 
 the pot or tub, place the tree therein, and fill all around, at 
 the same time pressing it down with the hand or a stick. Give 
 very little water until there are signs of vegetation. 
 
 MYRTLES, OLEANDERS, ETC. 
 
 These, with similar exotics, may be treated as above. If 
 any of them have been infected with the scaly insect, after 
 heading down, &c., scrub the remaining stems with a strong 
 decoction of tobacco, heated to about 100°. Afterward clean 
 with soap and water. 
 
 GERANIUMS. 
 
 These will be growing freely. Keep them in airy situations, 
 so that they may not grow too weak, and flower imperfectly. 
 To flower these plants, strong and of good colour, they must 
 not be crowded together, neither far from the light, and have 
 plenty of air admitted to them when the weather is favourable. 
 Keep them free from the green-fly, by fumigating frequently. 
 
200 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. [March. 
 
 HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 
 
 Plants of this character will, bj the first of the month, begin 
 to grow. The best time to divide and fresh-pot them is when 
 the young shoots are about one inch above ground. See under 
 the head Shifting in this month. 
 
 OP CAPE BULBS, ETC. 
 
 Cape Bulbs, such as Lachendlias, Oxalis, Ixias, Gladi- 
 olus, Watsbnias, Bahidnas, &c., will, in many of the species, 
 be showing flower. Keep all of them near the glass, to pre- 
 vent them from being weak and unsightly. 
 
 Hyaciiitlis, Tulips, Narcissus, &c. — Those that have been 
 kept in the green-house during winter will be in great per- 
 fection. Have all the flower-stems tied up neatly to small 
 stakes (which, if painted green, will look much better), and 
 keep them from the direct rays of the sun. The front of the 
 house, perhaps, will be the best situation. They must be 
 freely watered while in flower. Where there is convenience, 
 it will be essential to keep the pots in saucers containing water: 
 it will strengthen both stems and flowers, and likewise preserve 
 them longer in perfection. Those that are blooming should 
 be put aside, and watered sparingly until the foliage begins 
 to decay, when the pots may be laid on their sides to ripen 
 the bulbs. 
 
 REPOTTING. 
 
 We have always considered that this month is the best 
 period for repotting the generality of Cape and New Holland 
 plants, and more especially those that you are desirous of 
 encouraging. Large plants of the Citrus, Mi/rfus, and Ole- 
 ander tribes may be deferred till August : these are of a 
 strong robust habit, and will not be affected at that period ; 
 and they will then be out of doors, and more room can be 
 had for the operation, but by no means defer repotting your 
 Acacias, Ericas, Metrosideros, Epdcris, &c. ; and, for the 
 guidance of our more inexperienced friends, we give a de- 
 
March.'] GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 201 
 
 Bcriptive list of many of the finest, -witli a faint outline of their 
 characters and general treatment, which will prove a deside- 
 ratum for those who are inexperienced, and strangers to the 
 beauties, pleasures, and arts of exotic flora culture. Therefore, 
 if you have any of the following plants that you are desirous 
 of encouraging, they should be repotted this or next month at 
 the latest. Large plants will not require it if they were done 
 in August. Pots one size larger than those that they are in 
 are suflBcient. 
 
 Acacias and Mimosas being now united into one genus, 
 there are above two hundred species. About one hundred 
 and thirty belong to the green-house. Among such a beau- 
 tiful family, both for elegance of flower and beauty of foliage, 
 it will be difficult to specify the most handsome and desirable 
 for this department. A. ciealhCda, A. glaiicescens, A. verti- 
 cilldta, A. florahuncla, A. diffiisa, A. armdta, A. decipiens, 
 A. fragrdns, A. pxdchella, A. loplidntha , A. decdrrens, A. 
 piihescens, A. myrtifblia, A. conspicna, A. linearis, &c. 
 These will afford a great variety of foliage, and are very de- 
 sirable, flowering principally in winter, or early in spring. 
 The flowers of those belonging to the green-house are of a 
 yellow or straw colour ; the most of those that are red or pur- 
 ple, with the celebrated medicinal species, belong to the hot- 
 house, for which see Mar/. There are some of the species very 
 subject to the white scaly insect, which must be attended to, 
 that they may not get to any extent. (Soil No. 1.) 
 
 Agapdntlius, three species. A. iimMUdtus, with bright 
 blue flowers, is very celebrated, and well known in the col- 
 lections of the country. There is a variegated variety of it 
 highly desirable, the foliage being white striped, and frequently 
 the flower stem and the flower A. dlbidus has pale white 
 flowers, and as yet rather scarce. They have very strong 
 roots, and require plenty of freedom. Plants are always large 
 before they flower, and when the pots, by frequent shifting, 
 become inconvenient, the plant should be divested of all the 
 earth, and, if too large, divide it, cutting off the strongest of 
 the fibres; then they will admit of being put into smaller pots. 
 If the above operation is performed in August or September, 
 it will not retard their flowering, which, when well grown, is 
 very handsome, the flower-stem arising about three feet, and 
 crowned with twenty or thirty blossoms, continuing to bloom 
 successively. (Soil No. 12.) 
 
202 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. [^March 
 
 Achimenea — about sixteen species. The type of this new 
 genus has been long known in our collections under the name 
 of Trevirania coccinea, now A. coccinea, flowers bright scar- 
 let ; A. longifiora, large blue ; A. grandiflora, fine rose ; A. 
 hirsuta, bright rosy purple ; A. rosea, profuse flowering, and 
 A. ptcta, the foliage of which is beautifully variegated and 
 flrtripedj A. peduncalata, spotted; A. elegans, purple; A. 
 patens, violet; A. Baumannia, dark violet; A. fimhriatn, 
 fringed white; A. gloximflora, spotted; A. Margaretta, pure 
 white ; with nearly thirty other sorts, all having some faint 
 distinction. They have all scaly tuberous roots requiring the 
 pots to be kept entirely dry during winter ; in this month they 
 should be taken from the old soil and planted into fresh, three 
 or four in a six inch pot, giving gentle waterings till they 
 begin to grow. They delight in a warm close moist atmo- 
 sphere, and will bloom freely from July to October. (Soil 
 No. 10.) 
 
 Aloe. Nearly a hundred species of grotesque-looking suc- 
 culent plants, and are principally natives of the Cape of Grood 
 Hope, and, consequently, will do well in the warmest part of 
 the green-house, although, when convenient, they frequently 
 get a situation in the hot-house. A. vulgdris, known as A. 
 barbadensis, has orange-yellow flowers; A. obliqua, now 
 called Gasteria obliqua; A. dicJidtoma, and A. variegata, 
 which is perhaps the finest of the genus : the leaves are beau- 
 tifully striped, and commonly known as the partridge-breast 
 Aloe ; flowers scarlet and green. They ought to have very 
 little water, once a month is sufficient. They would grow 
 without it, and several of them would also grow by being sus- 
 pended in the house, without earth or any substitute about 
 their roots, by being frequently sprinkled with water. Few 
 of them are admired for the beauty of their flowers, but the 
 whole are considered curious. They flower from May to Sep- 
 tember. (Soil No. 9.) 
 
 Alonsbus, five species, all soft-wooded, small, shrubby plants, 
 with scarlet flowers. A. incisifolia is known among us under 
 the name of Hemiincris urticifolia, and A. lincdris as II. 
 linearis. If well treated they form very handsome plants, 
 and flower freely. They will not bear strong fumigation ; 
 and, when the house is under that operation, they must be 
 put on the floor of the green-house, where they will not bo 
 
March.} green-house — repotting. 203 
 
 BO much affected. They flower from April to August. (Soil 
 No. 9.) 
 
 Aldi/sa citn'odora, known in our collections as verbena 
 triphylla. The flowers are small, in long spikes of a pale 
 lilac colour; the celebrity of the plant is in the delightful 
 odour of its foliage, which is linear, lanceolate, and ternate. 
 It is of very easy culture, and has been known to survive 
 winter in the open air in Philadelphia. Where large plants 
 are desired, they should be planted in the ground during 
 summer, and lifted in November, and put in a dry cellar or 
 under the stage in the green-house. Before they begin to 
 grow in the spring, trim the plants into a neat shape. (Soil 
 No. 9.) 
 
 Ahtroemerias, about sixteen species, all exceedingly de- 
 sirable, and many of them particularly beautiful; such are 
 A. durea, golden-flowered ; A. bicolor, salmon and orange ; 
 A. carminata, carmine-coloured; A. Hooker ii, rose-coloured; 
 A. pelegrina, elegantly spotted; A. pulcMlla, red-flowered, 
 and will grow six feet high, having its shoots crowned with 
 a profusion of flowers ; A. psittachia, red, yellow and green ; 
 A. tricolor, black, white and yellow ; very beautiful. They 
 have, generally, tuberous roots, and should be potted into 
 fresh soil as soon as they show symptoms of growth, and they 
 will require repotting about every month previous to flowering, 
 taking care never to break the ball of earth while they are in 
 a growing state. (Soil No. 10.) 
 
 Amaryllis. This is a genus of splendid flowering bulbs, 
 containing about eighty species and one hundred and forty 
 varieties. They are natives of South America, but more than 
 one-half of them are hybrids grown from seed by cultivators. 
 They are generally kept in the hot-house, but in our climate 
 will do perfectly well in the green-house ; and we have no 
 doubt that in a few years many of them will be so acclimated 
 as to keep as garden bulbs, planting about the end of April, 
 and lifting them in October. As the beauty of these plants 
 is in the flowers, it will be proper to give a small description 
 of a few of them. A. hella, pure white striped with rose ; 
 A. Bartonii, creamy white striped with pink; A. Buistii, 
 large pure white, striped with cherry colour; A. I'gnesccns, 
 bright red, with white at the base of the petals. A. Johnsoni, 
 the flowers are a deep scarlet, with a white streak in the centre 
 of each petal, four bloom on a stem of about two feet, each 
 
204 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. [March. 
 
 flower about six inches in diameter ; a bulb well established 
 has two stems. A. re(j\na, Mexican Lily, has large scarlet 
 pendent flowers, tube of the flower fringed-iike, with three or 
 four on the stem. A. vittata is an admired species, with 
 scarlet flowers, striped with pure white ; there are two or three 
 varieties of it; corolla campanulate, three or four on the stem, 
 about three inches in diameter; petals a little undulate. A. 
 fahjida, flower scarlet, large, tube striped, petals acute, two 
 flowers on the stem. A. dulica is magnificent, has from two 
 to four flowers about seven inches in diameter, erect on a 
 stem about two and a half feet high ; six petals, strongly 
 united to the capsule, bottom of the petals green, connected 
 with spots of dark crimson, which spread into fine transparent 
 red, covered with rich tints, nerves very perceptible, anthers 
 bold ; it is called Crowned Amaryllis. A. pslttdclna, Parrot 
 Amaryllis, is scarlet striped with green, two or more flowers 
 on the stem, each about five inches in diameter. A. longljblia, 
 is perfectly hardy ; flowers pink, inclining to white, in large 
 umbels, leaves long, glaucous, and is a desirable garden bulb. 
 A. longljlbra striata has pure white flowers with bright pink 
 stripes, and each flower is about seven inches long; it was 
 introduced from South America by Mrs. E,. Alsop, and is a 
 most superb flowering bulb. A. solandljidra. large red; A. 
 elegdns, red and green, and many other superb kinds, espe- 
 cially the hybrid sorts ; from Johnsoni there are above twenty 
 cultivated varieties; from fornwsa about twelve; and from 
 Griffini about ten, all of them esteemed. Where they have 
 been kept in the earth in which they were grown last year, 
 the ball ought at this repotting to be reduced ; when the bulbs 
 are in a growing state they ought to have plenty of water, and 
 be fully exposed to the sun, so that the foliage may have its 
 full influence, and as the roots grow to the outside of the 
 earth, give them another and larger pot. They must have 
 plenty of drainage, and be kept from heavy rains. We prefer 
 growing them in the green-house all summer, or into frames 
 under glass ; about the end of October the watering must be 
 gradually withheld, and by the middle of November put the 
 bulbs where they will be kept dry till February or March 
 next, when they must be again potted (in soil No. 12). 
 
 Araucarla. This noble genus contains four species, which 
 are, without exception, the most noble plants we are acquainted 
 with, for the beauty of their foliage and symmetry of their 
 
Ifarrh.'] GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 205 
 
 growth, that belong -to the green-house. A. excelsa, Norfolk 
 Island Pine, has leaves closely imbricated as if with a coat of 
 mail, and arc imperishable. A. imhricdta, Chile Pine, is one 
 of the grandest of trees, and is the hardiest of the genus, grows 
 in the open air with me ; the leaves are also closely imbricated. 
 A. braziliensis is more tender and more rapid in growth. The 
 foliage of either of the species will adhere to the wood many 
 years after the plant is dead. They are all highly valued ; 
 the pots must be well drained j for if the plants get much 
 water while dormant, the foliage becomes yellow, and never 
 attains its i)eautiful 'green colour again ; otherwise they are 
 easily grown. (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 Arbutus, ten exotic species and six varieties. They are 
 generally hardy in England; but we question if they stand 
 out in the Middle States. A. luildo rubra has the finest 
 crimson flowers; A. serratifdlia the largest panicles; and A. 
 andrdchne the finest foliage; and very profuse of bloom. 
 They flower in nodding panicles. A. candriensis has very 
 neat pink flowers. They bear a pretty fruit similar to a 
 strawberry ; hence it is called strawberry tree, and the fruit 
 will remain on the bush a long time. They are very fine 
 evergreens, and if any of them become acclimated, they will 
 be a great acquisition to our gardens. In the Southern States 
 they make lovely evergreen shrubs. (Soil No. 9.) 
 
 Aster argophyllus, or musk plant, has no beauty in its 
 flowers, but is esteemed by some for its musky odour when 
 the leaves are gently rubbed. Leaves ovate, lanceolate, and 
 silky beneath ; the plant is of strong growth. (Soil No. 9.) 
 
 Aiicuba jajidnica is the only species. The flowers are 
 small and almost insignificant, colour purple ; but the foliage 
 is a desirable object, being yellow, spotted, or blotched. It is 
 tolerably hardy, and withstands our winters. It prefers shade, 
 and, if the situation were such when planted out, it would 
 grow more freely. The hot rays of the sun are very preju- 
 dicial to its growth. It is an evergreen shrub, and yerj de- 
 sirable. (Soil No. 2.) 
 
 Azaleas. The Chinese varieties of Azalea indica are almost 
 without an end; we might properly say that they are without 
 end ; but the finest we have seen are those we shall enumerate. 
 The one that has been longest known in the collections of 
 this country is Indica^ a most splendid shrub, with red flowera 
 and dark spots. Indica alba, the flowers of the purest white, 
 IS 
 
206 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. [J/a/c/l 
 
 rather larger than the former. Inaica piurpilrea pUno, double 
 purple. This variety is not so fine as many of the others. 
 Properly it is not purple, or if it may be termed so, the coloui 
 is very light, and the flower irregular. Inaica phoiniceaj 
 rich purple and a free grower. Indica smlthii of the French, 
 and Indica 23urpurea of the English, are alike, pale lilac and 
 very profuse of flower. Indica coccinea, bright scarlet, a 
 superb variety, and extremely abundant of bloom. Indica 
 Jiore variegdta, flowers beautifully variegated, pink and white. 
 Latmtia, salmon colour, fine. Williamsii, bright, rich crim- 
 son. Powleii, rosy purple. Prince Albert, very large, bright 
 rosy crimson, of strong growth. Maitlandii, pure white, 
 striped with pink, dwarf habit. Copeii, bright rose. Daniel- 
 siana, bright red. Indica cdrnea, delicate, flesh colour. 
 Indica nova blanc, white, with a greenish-yellow spot on 
 the upper petals. Kuhro pleno, double red, of very erect 
 growth. iSpcctahilis, rose and violet. Indica elegdns, bright 
 rosy purple, a very profuse flowerer and of a neat habit. In- 
 dica Gillinglidmia, very large lilac, and of a strong habit. 
 Striata formosissima, white striped rose. Hartwig, very 
 bright crimson. Azalea sinensis does not belong to the hidica 
 tribe; it is of a hard woody nature, flowers of a golden yellow, 
 in large clusters ; it no doubt will prove a hardy species. The 
 varieties and sub-varieties of indica will, in a few years, be so 
 numerous that the greatest difiiculty will be to keep clear of 
 those that are not decidedly distinct; to obtain this object our 
 own feeble exertions will be industriously applied. We might 
 have named a few other varieties, but they so nearly approach 
 some of the above that it is better to avoid them. A choice 
 collection of the Chinese Azalea ought to be in every green- 
 house ; they are all easy of culture, and bloom freely from 
 February to May. The pots must be well di'ained and shaded 
 from the sun during summer, though the tops of the plants 
 do best to have the full rays, to which we have them fully 
 exposed, and find that by such treatment they are every year 
 completely covered with their flowers, and grow more stiff in 
 habit than when the whole plant is shaded. They should be 
 repotted, as soon as done flowering, in soil No. 6 when they 
 are flowering plants, and in soil No. 5 when young plants. 
 
 Bdnksias. There are about thirty-two species, all curious 
 in flower, and handsome and various in foliage; flowers in 
 large headi of cone shape, anthers mostly green and continua 
 
MarcK\ green-house — repotting. 207 
 
 a considerable time in flower ; produces a cone in shape of a 
 pine, but not imbricate. The substance is as hard as bone, 
 and contains many seeds. Those most admired for the foliage 
 are, B. dentdta, B. cemula, B. serrdfa, B. latifoUa, B. grdndis, 
 which is the largest. B. speciosa has the longest foliage. 
 B. Ounninghdviii , B. spinulosa, B. palludosa, and B. repens, 
 these will afford a good variety. B. verticUlata is entirely 
 different in appearance from the others. 
 
 They must be well drained, and placed in an airy part of 
 the green-house. Great care should be taken that they do 
 not get too dry, for they seldom recover if allowed to flag for 
 want of water. This genus is named in honour of Sir Joseph 
 Banks, a distinguished promoter of the study of natural history. 
 (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Barosinas, above ten species of pretty plants, separated 
 from Diosma. B. ser rati folia, white; B. pidcheUa, purple; 
 B. fmtidhssima, blush ; B. odordta, white ; and B. dioica, 
 pink, are the finest. (Soil No. 8.) 
 
 Beav/drtias, only two species. B. decussdta, is splendid; 
 the flowers come out of the wood with stamens in fine parcels, 
 colour bright scarlet, foliage decussate, oval, and many-nerved, 
 bloom persistent and much esteemed. B. spdrsa, in flower 
 similar to the other; colour light pink, foliage scattered, both 
 of easy culture, and flower abundantly. (Soil No. 8.) 
 
 Begonias, a few species, are desirable for the green-house 
 especially. B. fuchsioides, scarlet; B. incamdta, flesh-colour, 
 and blooms during winter; B. zchrina, zebra-like, very pretty; 
 B. manicata, pink flowered; B. odorata, sweet scented. They 
 are of a soft woody nature, and should be kept in the warmest 
 part of the green-house, and never syringed over head during 
 winter. (Soil No. 9.) 
 
 Bentlidmia fragifera. This beautiful new plant will make 
 a splendid hardy evergreen for the Southern States, where it 
 will produce its pale white flowers in July, and an abundance 
 of fruit very much like strawberries, of a slight acid taste : 
 but we are doubtful if it will fruit in our green-houses unless 
 greatly encouraged. (Soil No. 9.) 
 
 BUlia hi/acinthina is the only species belonging to the 
 green-house, once known as C^mbidium hyacintlnnum. It 
 is herbaceous, and before it begins to grow, divide the root, 
 putting the best into six-inch pots. The spike of flowers are 
 
208 GREEN-HOUSE — RErOTTING. [J/a?-c7i. 
 
 hyacinth-like, and of a beautiful purple, flowering from April 
 to July. (Soil No. 9.) 
 
 Boiivdrdias, three species. B. Jiava, jeWow ; B. jyciUida, 
 pale red ; B. triphi/lla is well knowu among us, has brilliant 
 scarlet flowers, and, when well grown, will flower beautifully 
 from May till September. To keep the plants, they should 
 be frequently renewed ; otherwise they are liable to grow 
 straggling and become subject to the small white scaly insect. 
 (Soil No. 3.) 
 
 Borbnia is a beautiful genus of New Holland plants, con- 
 tains about nine species ; most of them have been universally 
 admired ; the flowers are star-like, rose-coloured, and some of 
 them sweet-scented. B, pinnata grows and flowers freely 
 B. serrulatay foliage serrated and very crowded, bearing the 
 flowers on the extremity of the shoot, and does extremely well 
 in this country ; the flowers are bright rose and sweet-scented. 
 B. aldta has a fine appearance, and grows handsomely. The 
 foliage is winged and pinnate, strong-scented ; of a hardy 
 nature, and easy culture. They are in flower about April 
 and May, and continue a considerable time ; are subject to 
 mildew if not frequently syringed : drain the pots well. 
 (Soil No. 8.) 
 
 Brachysemas, two species, both evergreen climbers. B. 
 latifulmm has the best foliage, and large purple leguminose 
 flowers. B. unclulahitn, flowers yellow, and more plentiful 
 than the former, continuing in long succession. The pots 
 require to be well drained ; very few plants of either in the 
 country. (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Bnigmdnsias, four species of strong, coarse-growing plants, 
 requiring great nourishment to flower them well. B. sitave- 
 olens has very large white flowers, about five inches in dia- 
 meter, and sweet-scented. B. sanguinea has flowers with a 
 green thorax ; the brim of the corolla is of a dark orange 
 colour. B. Kniglitii, large half-double flowers of snowy white- 
 ness, does well when planted in the open ground. B. flora- 
 hunda, orange-coloured. They must have very frequent re- 
 pottings, and be liberally supplied with water while growing. 
 (Soil No. 18.) 
 
 BruHsviglas are all large bulbs from the Cape of Good 
 Hope, and will keep in the green-house during winter, but 
 are better where they can obtain a situation in the hot-house. 
 It is a splendid genus containing about ten species. Some 
 
March.} GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 209 
 
 of the bulba grow to an enormous size, and all of them, while 
 growing, require a liberal supply of water ; but when dor- 
 mant it must be wholly withheld, and they should have large 
 pots, to make them grow and flower in perfection. B. mul- 
 tijldra, flowers scarlet and green ; the leaves lie on the sur- 
 face of the pot. B. laticbma, flowers pale purple. B. Jose- 
 phinm has splendid rose-coloured flowers, and the most admired 
 species of the genus; the foliage spreading, half-erect, and 
 glaucous ; flowers numerous, and in large umbels, on a stem 
 two feet high, blooming successively : there is a variety that 
 has striped flowers. 
 
 Several other species have been given to difi"erent genera. 
 B. falcdta is now Ammdcharis falcdta ; B. margindta, now 
 Imhdjia ; and B. cilidris is now Buplwne cilidris. They all 
 flower in umbels, on stems from six inches to two feet ; flowers 
 lily-like, with six petals. (Soil No. 12.) 
 
 BurcMllias, two species. B. cap4nsis is a beautiful dwarf 
 evergreen shrub, with tubular orange-coloured flowers, in large 
 terminal clusters; when well treated, grows and flowers freely, 
 and highly deserving of attention. B. parvi/ldra differs from 
 the above in the flowers being smaller and paler, and the 
 foliage more pointed. (Soil No. 10.) 
 
 Cactus: for descriptions of, see hot-house in May. 
 
 Calceolaria. This genus of plants has undergone a com- 
 plete revolution. Within these few years, hundreds of superb 
 hybrid varieties have been brought to notice, many of them 
 truly splendid. With us the herbaceous kinds are very deli- 
 cate during summer; they are generally all cut ofi" by our 
 intense heat, or severe droughts. The shrubby varieties 
 appear to withstand the vicissitudes of our climate better, 
 though, as yet, we confess we are not even altogether success- 
 ful in their summer culture. However, a few of them have 
 done well, and are C. angustifblia, bright yellow, and in great 
 profusion; C. Daniel 0' Conncll, brown mottled; G. Sidfan, 
 crimson purple; G. Jupiter, brown and yellow; O. marjo- 
 ridna sitjyerha, nearly scarlet; C. srnitliii, red and yellow; C. 
 /(/>iea, bright crimson; C. meteor, diSivk crimson; C. Vulcan, 
 dark red ; C. maculata, superbly marked with red or crimson. 
 There are many others of very gi-eat merit of the shrubby 
 kinds cultivated in Europe, such as whites of different shades, 
 dark crimsons, with white capes, and others blending into 
 almost every description if colour and character. Any quan- 
 18* 
 
210 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. [^March. 
 
 tity of new sorts may be obtained by cross impregnation be- 
 tween any two of very different colours; the seeds will ripen 
 in July, when they may be sown on light soil, and they will 
 flower the following season. Flowering plants require to be 
 greatly encouraged, and must be shaded during summer from 
 the violent noonday sun. (Soil No. 10.) 
 
 Calothdmnus, four species. This genus is named in allu- 
 sion to the splendid appearance of the branches, covered with 
 scarlet flowers, of curious construction, which come out of the 
 old wood. All the species are of easy culture, and very like 
 dwarf pines. C. quadnffida has the largest flowers; C. da- 
 vdta the most abundant. They are all evergreens, and flower 
 from April to November, and are very desirable in a collec- 
 tion. (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Callicoma serratifolia, the only species, and remarkable 
 for tufted yellow heads of flowers, which come out at the 
 axils, and continue from May to July. The foliage is ovate, 
 lanceolate, deeply serrated and opposite. (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Camellias. There are about eight distinct species of this 
 plant known in our collections; and the varieties oi Japonica 
 approach to one thousand, to which many are yearly added ; 
 but, unfortunately, their merits are not fully scrutinized before 
 they are sent forth to the floral world, under names represent- 
 ing and expressing every quality that is grand or beautiful in 
 floral imagination. Such has been the rapid increase of va- 
 rieties in Europe, and even in this country, that, in many 
 instances, three or four distinct plants have come out under 
 the same name; consequently, a great confusion of names has 
 been the result, which has caused much difficulty in attaining 
 the best of the names. The collections of this country were 
 kept comparatively pure till within the last few years, when 
 the anxiety of our cultivators to obtain variety caused them 
 to import from the French and German markets, which has 
 thrown the nomenclature into an almost impenetrable chaos. 
 But still we can unite in saying, " What species of plant is 
 there which better merits the intelligent and vigilant care of 
 the amateur and horticulturist?" The elegance of its form, 
 the beautiful verdure of its foliage, and the pure and brilliant 
 colours of the large and elegant flowers, sufficiently justify the 
 admiration of all. In fact, we may say, there is not a green- 
 house in which this lovely plant has not found a place, where 
 it stands in the first rank of floral population. To give a full 
 
March.l GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 211 
 
 description of all the varieties we know would occupy thi?i 
 volume. However, we will give lucid details of nearly one 
 hundred of the finest we have seen in cultivation. But, in 
 regard to the shades and spots of colour, we must throw our- 
 selves on the charity of our readers ; for many sorts are very 
 capricious in that particular ; though styled self-coloured, they 
 may come spotted, and even those that are generally spotted 
 sometimes show themselves of one colour. 
 
 Camellia euryoides, flowers small, single white, and a little 
 fragrant ; plant of a slender growth. 
 
 (7. oh\feria is cultivated principally in China for the oil 
 which is expressed from its seeds, which is much used in the 
 domestic cookery of the country ; flower single white. 
 
 G. Sesanqua, Lady Banks's. The foliage of this species 
 is very small, and paler, and the green not so fine as any of 
 the others. It seeds freely, and is often used as the female 
 parent in producing new varieties; flowers small, white, and 
 single, with many anthers. There are a semi-double and 
 double variety of it of the same colour. 
 
 C. sesanqua rosea, or mallifloi'a of some, double pink, 
 small flowers, but in very great profusion ; the plant is of a 
 free, upright growth. The flowers are of about four weeks' 
 duration ; it is very much esteemed. 
 
 C.kissi. Small single white; the only species that is a 
 native of Nepaul. 
 
 C. reticulata was brought from China by Capt. Rawes in 
 1822. The foliage is very characteristic, being stifi" and flat, 
 distinctly serrated, nerves deeply sunken ; flowers bright-rose, 
 of a loose form, and above six inches in diameter, semi- 
 double. From present appearance, it will never be so plenty 
 as many of the others, being tardy of propagation ; only a 
 few eyes on the extremity of each shoot make young wood, 
 and if these are cut ofi", the plant does not seem to push 
 afresh. Magnificent. 
 
 C. japonica, small, single, red. It is supposed that this 
 is the type of all the garden-cultivated varieties of the Ca- 
 mellia, though some are inclined to think that it is a varie- 
 gated or striped species, not yet introduced, that has been the 
 origin of so many beautiful Chinese sorts. 
 
 The following are supposed to be its varieties : — 
 
 C. alba-plena, common, double white, is admired by tho 
 most casual observer, and is generally considered a very 
 
ilV2 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. ^March 
 
 superior flower, from the purity of its wliiteness and the 
 abundance of its large flowers, which are closely and regu- 
 larly set with round petals. The foliage is large, and the 
 plant grows freely ; we have seen one shoot, grow two feet in 
 one summer. It was imported into Europe from China, 
 among the first of the varieties, about eighty years ago. 
 3IagmJicenf. 
 
 G. simplex'^ cilha, single white. It is mentioned some- 
 where as being very sweet-scented, though not very percep- 
 tible to us The foliage and wood are very strong, the fine 
 striped sorts have been raised from it; consequently, it is 
 particularly desirable as a stock to grow new varieties from. 
 Its flowers are large and abundant. Good. 
 
 G. anemonefibra, or Waratali (from the centre petals 
 having the appearance of the Waratah plant, TelojAa sped' 
 osissima). This variety is very characteristic, both in flower 
 and foliage. The flower is dark-crimson, with five regular, 
 large, outside petals; those of the centre are very small and 
 neatly plaited, with the style (female organ) prominent ; the 
 foliage is large and oblong, nerves very smooth, and the wood 
 strong, bark light. Had this kind not been found, we would 
 have been deprived of many most splendid varieties which 
 have originated from it, and we have no doubt they may be- 
 come as diversified as the roses of the garden ; this variety, 
 in a collection, for that alone is invaluable. It seeds freely, 
 and the pollen of any of the others applied to the style of 
 this will produce a new variety, which seldom fails of being 
 double, provided the pollen is from a double variety. It must 
 be applied the first day that the flower is expanded, for the 
 bloom is only of a few days' duration. Those that are not 
 acquainted with the buds of this Gamellla, will take them to 
 be dead, because, before expansion, they are very dark brown, 
 and have a dried appearance. Superb. 
 
 G. amdhile. This exceedingly perfect flower was raised 
 from seed by J. B. Smith, Esq., of this city; it is regularly 
 imbricated, the extreme petals are bright rose, shading to 
 delicate pink, and then again shading in the centre to light 
 
 * We have now, 1839, in flower, a single white, very similar to 
 this, which we have raised from the seed of Dahliaflora, a good, 
 double rea variety ; it, therefore, appears impossible to predict theii 
 character from the parent that produced the seed. 
 
March.'} GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 21S 
 
 red. The plant is full of foliage and of excellent habit, flower 
 about three and half inches in diametei". Mafjnijicent. 
 
 C. atrorubcns, Loddiges' red, is a good variety; colour dark 
 red, outside petals large, inside small and irregular, forming a 
 very distinct character; foliage stiff; grows freely and flowers 
 well; and of long duration. "We have seen a flower stand 
 fresh on the plant two months; however, that cannot be a 
 rule, as it depends on the situation. Good. 
 
 C. americana, blush, medium size, finely cupped form, 
 
 fenerally spotted with rose, an American seedling by Mr. 
 )unlap, of N. y. Magnificent. 
 
 G. Alexina, rose white, spotted and striped, dark rose, im- 
 bricated, and fully double foliage, dark green, cordate, a plant 
 of neat habit. Sit])erh. 
 
 G. nJhicans, pure white, perfectly double, in shape, growth, 
 and form, very like myrtifolia alba. Siiperh. 
 
 G. Binneyii, rosy crimson, very perfect form, luxuriant 
 foliage, of free growth and bloom. Sujyerh. 
 
 G. Bealiana, or Leana Superha, dark crimson, very large, 
 superbly double, cup form. Magnificent. 
 
 G. candid issiyna, purest white flowers, very large, four 
 inches or more in diameter, full and most regularly imbri- 
 cated, and resemble very much the old double u-Jiite, though 
 more perfect in form — -leaves rather small, of an elongated 
 form, smooth, and pale green, often spotted with yellow. 
 The plant is of vigorous growth, and a Japan variety. Mag- 
 nificent. 
 
 G. Galeb Gape (Ritchie), pale rose, centre blush, flower 
 medium size, perfectly imbricated, quite distinct, foliage long 
 oval reflexed, of a pale green, grows and blooms freely. 31ag- 
 nificent. 
 
 G. cdrnea, frequently known as Middlemist's blush. Double 
 pink, one of the original varieties, and frequently produces 
 seeds, from which many very fine varieties have been obtained ; 
 grows freely. Good. 
 
 G. clialmerii perfecta, delicate waxy rose, perfectly imbri- 
 cated form, flower medium size, very persistent, foliage pale 
 green, plant of regular pyramidal growth. Magnificent. An 
 American seedling in the possession of Mr. William Chalmers, 
 gardener to the late Geo. Pepper, Esq. 
 
 G. Chandlerii, or irrsicolor, perfectly double, colour vivid 
 red, with occasional splashes of pure white ; the flowers vary, 
 
214 GREEN-HOUSE — REP0TTIN3. IMarch, 
 
 and are oftea only red — they are of long duration, from six 
 to eight weeks; foliage large and dark glossy green. Superb. 
 
 C. coIviUea, pale blush, with rose spots and pink stripes, 
 is partially anemone-formed ; but very compact and of free 
 growth ; leaves cordate. Superb. 
 
 C. concinna, deep cherry red, a very perfectly imbricated 
 double flower, about three and a half inches in diameter; 
 foliage generally a little undulated, wood slender. Superb. 
 
 C. conspicua (Loddiges), a shrub of strong handsome 
 growth, with large dark-green foliage ; flower very double ; 
 five inches in diameter; bright orange red, hemispherical 
 shape ; petals erect, and appear as if three or four flowers 
 were united ; it is profuse of bloom and very conspicuous. 
 Superb. 
 
 G. coquette, rosy crimson, frequently blush, imbricated with 
 large petals of a rather coarse texture ; foliage large cordate, 
 pale green. Good. 
 
 G. Gomtesse Nencini, pure white, beautifully striped with 
 rose, of perfect formation ; foliage cordate acuminate, of good 
 habit. Magnificent. 
 
 C. Donkelari, bright red, variegated and sprinkled with pure 
 white, three rows of large petals about one inch broad and two 
 inches long; centre full of stamens, flower fully four inches 
 in diameter ; leaves about two inches broad and four inches 
 long ; this will be an elegant variety to seed from, and is of 
 Chinese origin. Superb. 
 
 G. delecthssima, white, profusely striped with rose, exterior 
 petals large and round; those of the interior are closely set; 
 flowers nearly four inches in diameter; leaves very large, ovate, 
 acuminate. Superb. 
 
 G. Duchess of Orleans, rose white, beautifully spotted or 
 striped with rose, perfect form, large, a free bloomer. Mag- 
 nificent. 
 
 G. eclipse or Pressi, of the English, or imp>i.rialis of the 
 French ; flower pure white, with rose stripes, four inches in 
 diameter; irregular, full, and double, with a few stamens 
 appearing among the petals; the whole flower forms an arched 
 centre, almost hemispherical ; leaves long and pointed, of a 
 clear rich green : we have seen flowers of this plant entirely 
 rose. Sujierb. 
 
 G. elegans (Chandler's), flower rosy red, fj.xJing to nearly 
 white in the centre; three and a half inches in diameter; 
 
March.'l green-house — ^repotting. 215 
 
 exterior petals large and rounded ; those of the interior very 
 numerous, and beautifully harmonize; forming, as it were, a 
 depressed sphere j a profuse bloomer, and of a neat habit. 
 Sujperb. 
 
 G. eldfa, violet crimson, spotted with white, flower three 
 and a half inches in diameter, perfectly imbricated to the 
 very centre, and of the most perfect double; foliage dark 
 green; plant of a good habit. Magnificent. 
 
 G. Davy Crockett, rosy crimson, exceedingly large, fully 
 five inches in diameter ; round petals fully double and very 
 showy. Superb. 
 
 G. Do la Reine, white, frequently striped with dark rosy 
 violet, very double; a magnificent flower, but a plant with 
 very indifierent foliage. 
 
 G. Dunlop's white, pure white, perfectly imbricated : a free 
 grower. Magnificent. 
 
 G. Emily, an exceedingly large irregular flower; blush 
 white, striped and spotted with rose; foliage shining green; 
 plant of strong growth. Superh. 
 
 G. Fultonii, pale waxy rose; regular flower of medium 
 size ; a profuse bloomer. Magnificent. 
 
 G. Fdirlea, foliage large, ovate, acuminate; of a smooth, 
 shining dark green; flowers nearly four inches in diameter, 
 of a rich crimson, marked with pure white; very double. 
 Superh. 
 
 G. Feastii, pure white, with a few spots of rose, fully 
 double, imbricated, very distinct ; foliage dark green ; of free 
 growth. Magnificent. A seedling by Mr. Feast, of Balti- 
 more. 
 
 G. fimbricLta : fringed white. The size, shape, and set of 
 the flower same as alba-plena, and the white as pure, with 
 the edges of the petals deeply serrated, or rather fringed ; ia 
 equally as free in flowering, though not so strong in growth. 
 It is universally admired, and in great demand. Magnifi- 
 cent. 
 
 G. flaviscens, or incdrnata. Lady Hume's blush, and by 
 some called huff. It is a very double flower, beautifully 
 regular and imbricated, and frequently hexangular, or star- 
 like ; the bottom of the petals is most delicately tinged with 
 blush; on looking into it, it shows more like a blush-vapour 
 than nature, and is a great favourite, and deservedly so : 
 flowers and grows freely ; foliage rhomboid, elongate, nerveg 
 
216 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. [^March. 
 
 very visible, surface smooth and pale-green, distinctly serrate; 
 growth strong and erect. Magnificent. 
 
 C. Floyii, one of the most noble of the Camellias, both in 
 flower and foliage ; leaves three inches wide and nearly five 
 long ; smooth, dark -green plant of strong growth ; flower five 
 inches in diameter, of a perfectly double form ; the extremity 
 is cherry-red, diverging to a pale-rose in the centre ; the ex- 
 terior petals are bold, round, and elegant, of a cup-shape 
 when newly opened. It is frequently sold in Europe under 
 the imposing name of Frederick the Great, though grown 
 from seed by Mr. Floy, of New York, who has been very suc- 
 cessful in producing several other esteemed sorts. Siiperh. 
 
 0. Fdrdii, a free growing plant, with lively, green foliage 
 and graceful habit ; flower dark-rose, three inches and a 
 half in diameter, perfectly double, and regularly imbricated, 
 forming a symmetrical bloom. Magnificent. 
 
 G. jyrmosa, foliage very dark green ; flower fully four 
 inches in diameter, of a dark rose colour, regularly double, 
 petals large and erect ; interior shortened, covering a few sta- 
 mens. Sujjerh. 
 
 G. /ranko/o7'tensis, or Wellingioni, a plant of a very com- 
 pact habit ; flower three inches and a half in diameter, beau- 
 tiful rose, occasionally spotted with white. Magnificent. 
 
 G. Gilesii, or Nancy Dawson. The leaves are large, 
 ovate, oblong, and pointed ; flowei's above four inches in 
 diameter, of a fine dark-red colour, often striped with white, 
 and is " distinguished for. fragrance as well as beauty." 
 Superb. 
 
 G. grunella, foliage oval and acute, of a deep, glossy 
 green, flower white, three inches and a half; rather irregular, 
 but perfectly double, a profuse bloomer, and of good habit. 
 Sujicrh. 
 
 G. Hendersbnii, raised by the celebrated camellia-grower, 
 Mr. Henderson, of Woodhall, Scotland. It is a large flower, 
 four inches and a half in diameter, beautifully imbricated, 
 and perfectly double, of a bright rose-colour ; foliage round, 
 ovate, and distinctly serrated. Magnificent. 
 
 G. Ilamjjstcadii, large, rosy-crimson, quite double, with 
 bold petals; foliage dark -green, heart-shaped, a free grower. 
 An American seedling sent out by Messrs. Ritchie and Dick. 
 jSu^ferh. 
 
 G. Henri Favre, a beautiful rose-colour, of French origin, 
 
March.^ GREEN-HOlisE — REPOTTING. 217 
 
 perfectly double, being similar to Landrethi. A free bloomer, 
 foliage pale green. Magnificent. 
 
 G. imhricdta, foliage very large, three inches wide, and 
 four and a half long, of a pale-green, often marked with 
 white ; flowers rich crimson, almost invariably marked more 
 or less with white ', they are full four inches in diameter ; 
 the petals are round, and regularly disposed, and imbricated 
 on each other, gradually decreasing to the centre, forming 
 a most perfect flower. The plant grows freely, and blooms 
 profusely ; no collection can be perfect without it. Magnifi- 
 cent. 
 
 C. intermedia, is a sport from S. pcEomfibra ; it is a very 
 large blush, beautifully sufi"used with rose. iSiqyerb. 
 
 C invincible, or punctata, flower three inches and a half 
 in diameter, rose-ground, marked and striped with cherry- 
 red ; the circumference petals are broad and convex ; those of 
 the centre small and erect. This Camellia sometimes pro- 
 duces flowers entirely red or rose-coloured ; it is of free 
 growth ; leaves round, acuminate, and of a dark-green. Su- 
 perb. 
 
 C. Jeffersonii, rosy-crimson, perfectly imbricated to the 
 centre ; flower of medium size ; foliage shining-green, three 
 to four inches long, and two wide. A seedling by Dr. J. S. 
 Gunnell, of Washington City. Magnificent. 
 
 G. imbricata (Dunlop's), flowers rosy-crimson, most per- 
 fectly formed, marked with white shading to blush; foliage 
 large, recurved, of a pale-green colour. Magnificent. 
 
 Jenny Lind (Mackenzie), pure white, with distinct pink 
 stripes, petals round, nearly fully imbricated, flower under 
 medium size; foliage long oval, glossy-green, free growth. 
 Magnificent. 
 
 G. Landrethii, or Jacksbnia, very beautiful pink, fading 
 to the centre, a perfectly-double and finely-imbricated flower, 
 about four inches in diameter, a free bloomer, and a plant of 
 good habit ; leaves ovate, acuminate, pale-green. We have 
 seen the flower profusely spotted with white. This elegant 
 Camellia was grown from seed by P. and C. Landreth, and 
 bloomed first in the spring of 1829. Magnificent. 
 
 G. latifblia, leaves three inches wide, and four inches and 
 a half long, point recurved, a fine glossy-green ; flower cherry 
 red, cup-form, interior petals irregular, festooned, and curled, 
 19 
 
218 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. iMarch 
 
 ihose of the exterior bold and round, about three inches and 
 a half in diameter. Superb. 
 
 C. Lowii, very dark crimson, imbricated flower; fine, bold 
 petals; foliage cordate, pale-green. Magnificent. 
 
 Mrs. Cope (Sherwood), blush white with rose and red spota 
 and stripes, very perfectly formed, imbricated to the centre, 
 flower full medium size, opens well ; foliage heart-shaped, 
 pale-green, plant of a bushy habit. Magnificent. 
 
 Mrs. Fetters, large, dark-red, shading to rose in the centre, 
 perfectly imbricated; fine round petals, very regularly dis- 
 posed; foliage dark green. One of the best of its colour. 
 Magnificent. 
 
 C. Mrs. Lennig (Buist), dark rose, perfect form, great 
 depth of petals, full size, plant of bushy habit, flowers freely, 
 foliage stifi", pale green. Magnificent. 
 
 C. Mrs. Sutter (Sutter), pure white, delicately striped with 
 rose, fine round petals, fully double, medium size, plant of 
 erect growth, foliage long oval; very distinct. Magnificent. 
 
 C. Mrs. Ritchie (Ritchie), colour blush white, with dis- 
 tinct pink stripes, petals bold and round, fully imbricated, 
 under medium size; foliage heart-shaped, of a pale green; 
 strong growth. Mcignificent. 
 
 C. myrtifolia, known in our collections as involuta. 
 There are two varieties of it, major and minor; the former is 
 certainly the best, and has a very handsome, large, and regular 
 red flower ; the centre frequently is pink and purple ; it is 
 much the shape of double ivhite, only the petals are more 
 <;upped. The flower is of considerable duration. The foliage, 
 though small, is much larger than that of any of our common 
 myrtles, which might make many mistake its character; and 
 another prominent feature is, the leaves are much recurved 
 and shining; plant pendulous, of a pale green. Magnijicent. 
 
 C. Madojina, very pure white, delicately striped with 
 bright rose ; perfectly imbricated, and above medium size ; 
 foliage dark shining green. Magnificent. 
 
 C. Mrs. Abby Wilder, white striped with pink ; a regularly 
 imbricated flower of fine formation ; foliage large, coarse, 
 sickly green. Magnificent. 
 
 C. Miss Percival, large flower, pure white, very fine when 
 in bud, not fully double ; foliage dark shining green. Good. 
 When we have the pleasure of giving a Camellia this name, 
 it will be, in our estimation at least, without a fault. 
 
fHarch.'] GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTITSO. 219 
 
 C. pceoniflbra : bright pink, large flower, fully four inches 
 in diameter, two rows of circumference petals ; those of the 
 centre numerous, very close, erect, and in the form of a 
 sphere; plant of a slender growth; leaves two inches broad 
 and three inches long, of a delicate green. Superb. 
 
 C. Pabncr's perfection, dark crimson, inclining to purple, 
 very large, perfectly double, and of handsome form; a free 
 bloomer. Magnificent. 
 
 G. Philadelphica (Smith's), flowers four and a half to five 
 inches in diameter; the circumference petals large and round; 
 those of the interior smaller with a little convexity, perfectly 
 double, colour changeable, bright crimson, spotted with white; 
 dark rose, fading to the centre, or all crimson ; even the same 
 plant producing all the variety; plant of an upright branching 
 habit; leaves ovate, acuminate,*of medium size, and a very 
 dull dark green ; bloomed first in 1834, when only two years 
 from the seed, and the flower was then four and three-quarter 
 inches in diameter. Superb. 
 
 C. picturdta ; leaves three and a half inches wide, and 
 four and a half inches long, of a bright green ; flower four 
 inches in diameter; spherical and extremely double; petals 
 of the centre irregular and closely folded : those of the peri- 
 phery or circumference round and entire, of a pure white, 
 occasionally striped with red — a few hidden stamens — plant 
 of an elegant habit. Superb. 
 
 C. pomponia, or Kew blush, flowers over four inches in dia- 
 meter; white, with a tinge of blush at the bottom of the petals, 
 which has a good effect in setting off the flower. They fre- 
 quently bloom all blush, having one or two rows of guard or 
 outside petals ; those of the inside are short, stubby, and 
 generally irregular; continues long in flower; yellow anthers 
 among the short petals, and seeds when the female organ is 
 perfect; foliage similar to pceo7ufiora ; a very fast grower, and 
 flowers freely. Superb. 
 
 C. Prdttii ;* flower bright rose, full four inches in diame- 
 ter, frequently every petal having a white stripe from the 
 apex to the base, very closely and regularly imbricated to the 
 very centre : in every respect equally as well formed as C. 
 imbricata ; leaves two and a half inches wide and four inches 
 
 * In compliment to our late and esteemed pati-on, H. Pratt, Esq., 
 of Lemon Hill. 
 
220 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. l^Iarch. 
 
 long, of a ricTi smooth green — is a plant of free growth and 
 profuse flowering; bloomed first in 1836. With pleasure, we 
 say it is our first seedling of merit. Magnificent. 
 
 C President (Buist), bright rose pink, petals pointed, 
 closely imbricated to the centre, cup form, plant of free up- 
 right growth, foliage heart-shaped, pale green; flowers freely. 
 Mngn ificen t. 
 
 (J. ptinctdta, see Invincihle. 
 
 G. Prince Alhcrt, pale rose, striped with bright red, very 
 distinct; a Chinese variety, perfectly double, a large flower; 
 petals rather short in the centre. Superb. 
 
 C. Queen of England, dark rosy crimson, with an occa- 
 sional spot of white; large, imbricated, and fully double. 
 Magnificent. 
 
 (J. Queen Victoria (Priestley's), crimson, occasionally 
 marked with white ; flower large, perfectly imbricated ; fo- 
 liage strong, dark green. 31agnificcnt. 
 
 C rdsd sinensis, a large, double flower, four inches in dia- 
 meter; colour bright, rosy pink, petals long and full, closely 
 imbricated to the centre : a very distinct variety, with beau- 
 tiful dark green, shining foliage, two inches wide and three 
 and a half long; grows and flowers freely. Magyiificent. 
 
 C. r libra pleno, or GreavilFs double red, is a strong-grow- 
 ing and free-flowering variety. The flowers are large, irre- 
 gular, and very double, and are of long duration ; foliage of 
 a yellowish-green, leaves two inches wide and three inches 
 long; plant of a stifi" habit. Superb. 
 
 0. Saccoi, bright rose, imbricated form, very perfect, 
 fading to a pale rose; a free bloomer. Magnificent. 
 
 C. Saccoi de nova and Magnifii are the hame, very similar 
 to the former, merely a shade paler in colour; foliage more 
 distinctly nerved and serrated. Magnificent. 
 
 C. Sarah Frost, rich crimson, of perfectly imbricated form, 
 very full, a profuse bloomer, growing freely, of upright habit. 
 Magnificent. 
 
 (J. Sherwoodii, rosy crimson, frequently spotted with pure 
 white ; very double ; petals reflexed when fully open ; a free 
 grower and profuse bloomer. Magnificent. A seedling by 
 Mr. Sherwood. 
 
 C. sesdnqiia rosea. See among the species. 
 C. specidsa is a most splendid variety, has been called 
 Chinese-striped Waraiah. The guard petals are large, round 
 
March.'] GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 22i 
 
 and bold; colour crimson, with stripes of white; the centra 
 is full of irregular, small petals, and spotted ; the foliage three 
 inches wide and four inches long, and more heart-shaped than 
 any of the others ; grows freely, flower persistent, four inches 
 in diameter, and highly esteemed, and considered one of the 
 finest of the coloured Camellias. Superb. 
 
 C. Siceetia vera; leaves three inches long and four inches 
 wide, distinctly serrate, of a fine, shining green, plant of an 
 upright, free-growing habit; flower nearly four inches in 
 diameter, with three rows of circumference petals — rose white, 
 sprinkled with bright red; those of the centre small and 
 erect, concealing a few, sterile stamens. Superb. 
 
 C. tricolor; foliage pale-green, two inches wide and three 
 and a half inches long, distinctly serrated, with the nerves 
 very prominent; flower full four inches in diameter — semi- 
 double ; petals large and round — very beautifully set ; colour 
 white, shaded with various shades of red, rose, &c. A superb 
 variety to produce seeds, having the female organ very per- 
 fect, and was introduced from China by Dr. Siebold. Su- 
 perb. 
 
 G. triumphans ; foliage dark-green; leaves roundish-oval, 
 slightly pointed with nerves, and serratures very distinct; 
 flower nearly four inches in diameter, of a bright cherry-red, 
 shaded with rose; petals regular, round, and large, a little 
 recurved at the extremity, and gracefully imbricated to the 
 centre, which is occasionally striped with white; the plant is 
 of a good habit, and free growth. Superb. 
 
 C. variegata is one of the old standard varieties, and very 
 much esteemed.' It is striped with red and white; some- 
 times the ground is red, with white streaks or blotches, and 
 vice versa ; nearly four inches in diameter, petals large and 
 round, rather loose, centre showing a number of stamens ; 
 foliage very fine dark green ; three inches wide and four inches 
 long. We have had seed from it. Plant of a good habit and 
 a profuse bloomer. Superb. 
 
 C. teutonia, an imbricated flower, of perfect form, rosy 
 crimson, frequently inclining to pale rose. Magnificent. 
 
 C. Walbankiana ; foliage pale green, two inches broad 
 
 and nearly four inches long; plant of rather loose habit; 
 
 flower greenish-white, full four inches in diameter; petals 
 
 large and oval, irregularly tufted, showing a number of sta« 
 
 19* 
 
222 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. [^March. 
 
 mens, thougt very double. We are inclined to believe that 
 this is the Idtea alba of some catalogues. Superb. 
 
 C. Wardii; very dark green foliage; leaves rather cordate 
 and undulate, of a coriaceous texture ; plant of a branching 
 stiff habit ; flower full three inches in diameter, very persistent 
 — circumference petals large and round ; those of the interior 
 small, round, and closely set, rather flattened, colour vivid 
 crimson. This fine variety is another by Mr. Floy, of New 
 York. Superb. 
 
 C. Washington (Guncell's); dark rosy crimson, of exquisite 
 form, imbricated to the centre ; a plant of neat habit, an 
 abundant bloomer, always opening perfect. Magnificent. 
 
 G. Wilderii; very bright rose; perfectly imbricated; petals 
 regular to the centre ; almost a fac-simile of the C. Fordii, 
 except the foliage, which is more heart-shaped. Magnificent. 
 
 C. Wni. Penn (Dick), dark reddish crimson ; large bold 
 petals, fully double; plant of free growth; foliage dark green; 
 habit good. Magnificent. 
 
 C. Wdodsii; foliage light green ; leaves two inches wide 
 and four inches long; plant of a rapid growth and regular 
 shape ; flower four and a half inches in diameter, of a bright 
 rose colour ; petals large and rounding in the periphery ; those 
 of the centre rather irregular — perfectly double, and blooms 
 with difiiculty. We have observed it to bloom finest when a 
 gentle heat was applied, or when the plant flowered in March 
 or April. Superb. (Soil No. 11 for the whole family.) 
 
 We beg to observe that, in giving descriptions of the 
 camellia, we have invariably, as far as known, described the 
 best variety, where there were several varieties under one 
 name. The new varieties in this beautiful family of plants 
 are increasing with astonishing rapidity. The seedlings of 
 this country alone would of themselves form a collection of 
 every shade and colour, though many of them are almost 
 alike, especially among the whites and reds — nearly fac-similes 
 except in foliage. The description of such we have carefully 
 avoided. Indeed, we boldly assert, though an extensive cul- 
 tivator of over two hundred varieties, that there are not more 
 than one hundred varieties known worthy of a passing I'emark, 
 except for their deformed character. 
 
 Ceanbthus, low, shrubby, spring blooming plants, with pecu- 
 liar foliage, of easy culture, and will all prove hardy south of 
 Virginia. 0. azureus, pale blue. C. divaricatus, dark blue; 
 
Mar^ch.'} green-house — repotting. 223 
 
 C. rigidus, bright blue; the two latter are very profuse in 
 their flowering. (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Cestrum; a genus of about ten species; some of them very 
 popular under the name of Niylit-hlooming Jasmine ; which 
 are C nocturnum and parquii with long greenish-white 
 flowers ; C. diurnam, pearly white, the centre of the flower 
 sparkling like a diamond; C. aurantiacum, dark orange 
 flowers in large clusters, very handsome, blooming in winter. 
 (Soil No. 12.) 
 
 CTiorizemas, about ten species, foliage very variable; flowers 
 small and papilionaceous, often very profuse; colour red and 
 yellow ; though small they are very neat. C. nana and C. 
 ilicifdlia are pretty ; but nothing of the kind can exceed C. 
 ovata and C. varium with their beautiful scarlet and orange 
 blossoms, which are in great profusion ; if grown from seed, 
 they will flower freely the second year; drain the pots well. 
 (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Cinerarias, Cape aster, about twelve belong to the green- 
 house. They are herbaceous, or half shrubby, soft wooded 
 plants. C. speciosa, C. amelloides (now called Agatha^a 
 ccelestus), C. purpiirea, and C. lanata, are among the finest 
 of the species; flowers blue or yellow; the latter is considered 
 the handsomest of the genus. The exterior petals are bright 
 purple, and the interior ones white, and, with A. ccrUstus, 
 flowers most of the year; flowers syngenesious and star-like. 
 The herbaceous species must be treated as previously men- 
 tioned for that kind of plant. The new hybrids of this genus 
 are rivalling the species, both for beauty of colour and size of 
 flower; among these are Kingii, Scottii, Catherine Hayes, Lady 
 Campbell, Madam Sontag, Jenny Lind, Rosy Morn, Vicar of 
 Wakefield, and several others, all really beautiful. They 
 require frequent repottings and plenty of moisture whilst in 
 a growing state. (Soil No. 12.) 
 
 Cinnamomum camphora is the camphor tree of commerce; 
 is an excellent evergreen but has no beauty in its flower. 
 The foliage, when bruised, has a camphorated odour. (Soil 
 No. 10.) 
 
 Cisfus, or Rock rose. There are above thirty species, 
 principally natives of Europe, consequently hardy there, and 
 form a great ornament to their gardens, being very abundant 
 and various in flower ; but with us they will not stand the 
 rigour of winter. We have no doubt, however, but, through 
 
224 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. [March. 
 
 time, some kinds may be grown that will withstand the great- 
 est cold of the Middle States; they are low shrubby plants, 
 of easy cultivation. C. ladaniferus, (J. saiignus, C. popidlfo' 
 lius, C. undulatus, and G. formosus, are perhaps the best ; 
 the flowers are of short duration, frequently only for one day; 
 but the quantity makes up this deficiency, being constantly 
 in flower in May and June, and sometimes flower again in 
 autumn. G. creticus is most productive of the gum laudanum, 
 which is secreted about its leaves and branches. The flowers 
 are generally five-petalled, and some of them large and showy ; 
 centre full of stamens. (Soil No. 3.) * 
 
 Citrus. This genus contains the most grand and noble of 
 fruit-bearing trees ; Louden says, " The golden apples of the 
 heathens, and forbidden fruit of the Jews, are supposed to 
 allude to this family." They are all handsome evergreen 
 shrubs or trees, bearing highly odoriferous flowers, and beau- 
 tiful golden fruit. In cultivation, the orange fruit is dry 
 and more insipid thap in the tropics, but the lemon is far 
 superior in its quality. The varieties of orange are exten- 
 sive, nearly eighty kinds being cultivated in Italy ; but, with 
 us, the sweet, sour, and rough-skinned are the principal 
 sorts, and more recently we cultivate the mandarin, Otahei- 
 tan, and other beautiful dwarf Chinese varieties; also, the 
 striped-leaved varieties of Bergamotte. The lemon are nearly 
 as numerous, though not so apparently distinct; it is very 
 valuable as a cultivated fruit, and should be in every green- 
 house or conservatory. The lime and the shaddock should 
 not be overlooked, as they are very ornamental, especially the 
 latter when it arrives at a fruit-bearing state. (Soil No. 18, 
 when young plants, and when fruit-bearing keep from it the 
 portion of sand.) 
 
 Glematis, Virgin's Bower. There are only six of these 
 belonging to the green-house, all climbing plants. C. aris- 
 tdta and G. brachidta are the best; flowers in racemose 
 clusters, pure white; foliage small; and natives of the Cape 
 of Good Hope. The foliage of G. aristata is cordate and 
 blotched. Some of the hardy species and varieties make 
 beautiful plants for the green-house, such as Jidrida, Sleboldii, 
 and cfvridea; they are profuse bloomers, and fine growers. 
 (^Soil No. 3.) 
 
 Glerodendron frdgrans midtij^lex, double white, frequently 
 known under the name of Volkamenia Japdnica, which is $• 
 
March.'] green-house^^repotting. 225 
 
 very different plant, and not supposed to be in this country. 
 It keeps in a good green-bouse, and flowers well, frequently 
 blooming during winter, and if planted in the garden during 
 summer, will flower superbly. The flowers have a delicious 
 fragrance; if the foliage is rubbed with the hand the smell 
 is not so pleasant. The leaves are large, round, ovate, and 
 tomentose; flowers corymbose, compact, and terminal. (Soil 
 No. 12.) 
 
 Clethra arhdrea, and C. arhdrea variegata, are both fine 
 shrubs ; the latter is preferable ; leaves are oblong, acumi- 
 nate, and serrated, having a gold-coloured edge ; flowers white, 
 downy, in large branching racemose spikes, and sweet-scented; 
 grows freely. (Soil No. 2.) 
 
 Ciidiuhus punirensi, or Glory flower. This magnificent 
 plant produced great excitement among European cultiva- 
 tors, which consequently reached this country. The plant 
 sold at extravagant prices, and cost the writer upwards of 
 fifty dollars to introduce a living plant of it, which was done 
 ■ nine years ago. The plant has been cultivated in pots, and 
 has not yet given general satisfaction ; the leaves are smooth, 
 pinnated, of a delicate green, consisting of eight pairs ; the 
 stem is of a soft woody nature ; the splendid large scarlet, 
 leguminose, pea-like flowers grow in clusters, hanging down 
 from the axils of the leaves on the lateral branches ; each 
 flower is about two inches long. It is a native of New 
 Zealand, and is tolerably hardy. We have not been able to 
 grow a solitai-y good specimen of it, and the only handsome 
 plant we have seen was in the collection of Gen. R. Patter- 
 son ; where it was planted out in the conservatory in Soil 
 No. 10. 
 
 Clivea ndhilis, a tuberous herbaceous plant, closely allied 
 to Brunsvigia. The flowers are said to be very splendid ; 
 colour scarlet and green : although it has been in the coun- 
 try several years, we are not aware of its ever having bloomed. 
 (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 • Cobcea scdndens, the only species. It is a climber of very 
 rapid growth ; has been known to grow above two hundred 
 feet in one summer; large bell-shaped flowers; when they are 
 newly expanded, they ai-e of a pale green colour, and change 
 to dark purple : will grow in the garden during summer, bear- 
 ing a continual profusion of flowers, but will not stand frost 
 When this plant becomes too large in the house, do not cut it 
 
226 GREEN-nOUSE — REPOTTING. [^March. 
 
 close to the root, except there is a young shoot arising to 
 carry off the superabundan sap, for the old wood will not 
 push, which will soon cause i mortification. 
 
 The best method to adopt in such a case is, to turn back 
 a shoot, and lay it in the ground to root, when it will be- 
 come a young plant, which should always be done as soon 
 as it appears unsightly. It does best to be planted in the 
 ground, but will not give any satisfaction as to flowering in 
 a pot. It will flower as an annual if sown in pots this month, 
 and placed in a warm room or hot-bed, and planted into the 
 garden about the middle of May ; it seeds freely. (Soil No. 
 
 Coronilla, a very few are fine species in the green-house. 
 C. glailca is a celebrated plant among us, as a free and early 
 flowering shrub. C. valentiana, and G. vimtndlis, are equally 
 so ; flower from April to June, colour yellow ; papilionaceous 
 flowers in clusters ; agree best in summer with partial shade. 
 Drain the pots well. (Soil No. 12.) 
 
 Con-ea, five species and several varieties, all very pretty 
 dwarf shrubs, and flower profusely; foliage ovate, cordate, 
 and either rusty or downy beneath. C. alba, and C. rufa, 
 have both white flowers a little tubular. O. pulchella is 
 a very handsome, erect-growing plant; flowers large and 
 tubular, of a bright red colour, and grows freely. C. spccidsa 
 has been long admired as a splendid free-flowering plant ; 
 flowers same shape as C. pulchella, but more elongated ; 
 colour red and yellowish-green. C. virens is a very free 
 grower, flowers same shape as the last two, colour entirely 
 green ; C. multijlora, red — G. hicolor, green and white — 
 G. Harrhii, spotted. They are abundant flowerers, when the 
 plants are well established; having a continued succession 
 from November to June, possessing the valuable requisite 
 of flowering through the winter, and ought to be in every 
 collection. They require an aii'y situation, and the pots to 
 be well drained. The plants in summer must not be fully 
 exposed to the sun. (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Grdssula. This genus has now no plant in it attractive in 
 beauty. Several beautiful plants in our collections belong to 
 Kochea and Kalosdnthus. There is a strong-growing succu- 
 lent plant, known in our collections as G. falcdta, which is R. 
 falcdta. It seldom flowers ; the minor variety blooms pro- 
 fusely every year from Maj t: August, and has showy scarlet 
 
March.'} GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 227 
 
 flowers in terminal panicles. The plants known as C. cocci- 
 nea, and C. versicolor, are now given to the genus Kalosdn- 
 thus. The flowers of the former are scarlet, waxflike, termi- 
 nal, and sessile ; those of the latter are rose and white, also 
 wax-like, and are both desirable plants, requiring very little 
 water during winter. (Soil No. 18.) 
 
 Ciphcea, a genus of rather unattractive plants were it not 
 for the very brilliant C. platycintei-a, which is continually in 
 bloom with its profusion of tubular, waxy, scarlet-coloured 
 flowers edged with white and tipped with black : the plant is 
 of dwarf habit, and does well in almost any locality. (Soil 
 No. 12.) 
 
 Crataegus. There are none of these belonging to the green- 
 house ; but there is a plant in the collections, known as C. 
 glabra, which is Photinia serrnldta, a native of China, and is 
 a very handsome plant; has long foliage, deeply serrated, 
 very shining. P. arhutifolia, a native of California, and is 
 the finest of the genus ; flowers in large dense panicles, foliage 
 larger than the former, and not so deeply serrated ; they are 
 both comparatively hardy, and we soon expect to see them 
 acclimated. (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 Crinuni, several species do well in the green-house, espe- 
 cially C. Mexicdnum, G. capense, and G. ascdtica : they re- 
 quire considerable pot-roc a to make them do well. (Soil 
 No. 12.) 
 
 Grbwea saligna is among one of the finest plants of New 
 South Wales. It flowers at the axils of the leaves, colour 
 pink, with five petals, connected by entangled hairs ; in flower 
 from April to December, and frequently through the winter ; 
 foliage lanceolate, and a fine green. The plant grows neat, 
 and requires an airy situation : drain the pots well. (Soil 
 No. 1.) 
 
 Gunohia cupensis, the only species, and a handsome shrub, 
 with large pinnated shining leaves, beautifully contrasted by 
 numerous dense, elongated branches of small, white flowers, 
 and twigs of a red colour, having more the habit of a tropical 
 than of a Cape of Grood Hope plant. (Soil No. 2.) 
 
 Gi/rtdnthus, a genus of Cape bulbs, containing nine species, 
 and will do very well in the green-house; but we find the 
 assistance of the hot-house a great advantage. They ar<^ 
 closely allied to Grinum. The tubes of the flowers are long 
 and round with various shades of orange, 3'ellow, red, and 
 
228 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. [J/trrcA, 
 
 green. O. odbrus, G. stridtus, 0. obliquus, and 0. vittdtus, 
 are the finest. When the bulbs are dormant, which will be 
 from October t-o January, they should not get any water; 
 before they begin to grow, turn the bulbs out of the old 
 earth, repotting it immediately. At this time they should be 
 potted with the bulbs of earth entire, which will cause them 
 to flower stronger. (Soil No. 12.) 
 
 Dcwijneras, four species. The genus is named in honour 
 of Captain W. Dampier, a famous voyager: has Lobelia-like 
 flowers, either blue or purple. C. j^wpurea, C. unduUita, 
 and C. strlcta, are the finest; the former two are shrubby; 
 the latter is herbaceous; they all flower freely. (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Daviesias, above ten species, principally natives of New 
 South Wales, all yellow papilionaceous flowers. D. ulicma, 
 D. latifblia,, D. aciculdris, and D. incrassdta, are very fine 
 species, flower and grow freely, and require to be well drained : 
 bloom from April to August. (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Dillwynias, above twelve species, and plants very little 
 known. D. cinerescens, D. Jloribunda, D. teretifblia, and 
 D. phylicoides, are desirable plants; flowers small, papilio- 
 naceous, and colour yellow and red. They are very liable to 
 suffer from too much wet; while dormant, therefore, the pots 
 must be efi'ectually drained. (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Didsmas. This pretty genus of heath-looking plants has 
 recently been very much divided by botanical professors. 
 The genera that they have been given to are Adendndra, 
 Acmddenia, Agathdsma, and Bardsma. However, we incline 
 to adhere to the original name, and recommend D. cwpitdtaf 
 D. oppositlfblia, D. rubra, D. dlba, D. fragrans, D. unljlora, 
 D. serratifblia, D. specibsa, and D. pulchella. They aie all 
 profuse blooming plants, with generally small flowers of a 
 white lilac or pink colour. It is supposed that the dried 
 leaves of pidchella are used by the Hottentots as powder to 
 mix with the grease with which they anoint their bodies. 
 Some travellers assert that it gives them so rank an odour 
 that they sometimes could not bear the smell of those who 
 were their guides. In fact, the foliage of all, if rubbed by 
 the hand while on the plantj has a very strong smell, some of 
 them very agreeable, others disagreeable. They are all ever- 
 green, small, neat-growing shrubs. They require, whilo 
 growing luxuriantly, to have their young shoots topped to 
 make them bushy ; drain all the pots well and keep them i» 
 
March.^ GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 229 
 
 airy situations, and not crowded '"with other plants, or they 
 will become slender and unsightly. (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Dipldcus puniceus. This shrubby (^mimulus) plant was 
 introduced by Mr. Nuttall, from California, by seeds, in 1836, 
 and sent by us to England, in 1837. The flowers are of a 
 scarlet orange, about one inch and a half long, and produce in 
 pairs, from the axils of the leaves, or young wood; the plant 
 requires considerable nourishment, for the more rapid it 
 grows, the more profuse are its flowers, which bloom from 
 May to September, and are rath ^r showy. In the Southern 
 States it will prove a hardy shrut, blooming nearly the whole 
 year. (Soil No. 12.) 
 
 DractEna, or Dragon tree. The D. austrdlis and D.ferrea 
 will keep in the green-house, and are attractive plants for 
 their foliage, especially the latter, which is of a purple crim- 
 son, and very unique; the flowers are on large terminal spikes. 
 (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 Dorydnthus excelsa, a yitcca-looking plant belonging to the 
 natural order of Amaryllidea; the leaves arise from the root, 
 and are about three inches wide and three feet long; the 
 flowers are bright crimson, surmounted on a stem about 
 twenty feet high. The plant does not bloom till it is of con- 
 siderable size. (Soil No. 10.) 
 
 Drydndras. This genus is closely allied in character and 
 habits to Bdnksia, and contains above sixteen species. D. 
 nivea has most beautiful foliage, very long and deeply in- 
 dented. D. formbsa has a scent like the fruit of an apricot. 
 D. nervbso, 1). Jioribunda, D. armdta, D. plumbsa, D. Bax- 
 teri, D. nervosa, and D. falcdta are the most conspicuous, and 
 all highly desirable plants in collections. They are very 
 delicate of importation ; flowers are straw and orange-coloured, 
 and thistle-like. Seeds in small cones. Treat them the same 
 as directed for Banksias. (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Di/ckias, two species of very curious growing plants, of a 
 dwarf habit, with bright orange flowers ; they may be culti- 
 vated with the aloe tribe, to which they have a similarity. 
 D. rarijibra and D. rnmotijibra ; the latter is in the country. 
 (Soil No. IS.) 
 
 Eclieveria, a genus of succulent plants chiefly from Mexico 
 and California. E. grandijibra , flowers green and red. E. 
 •pulveruUnta, flowers red. The foliage of this species is deli- 
 cately covered with powdei which gives it a very beautiful 
 20 
 
230 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. [^March. 
 
 appearance. E. hicblor is also a pretty species : they require 
 to be kept very dry during winter. (Soil No. 10.) 
 
 Ediodrdsias, about four species, very beautiful foliaged 
 plants, and have very curious yellow flowers, but do not 
 flower until the plant becomes large. E. grandifibra, E. 
 chrijsbphylla, and E. micrbjyhylla, are the best, and are tole- 
 rably hardy, though doubtful of ever being acclimated. The 
 flowers are leguminose, foliage ovate, pinnate, from eight to 
 forty on one footstalk, and appear to be covered with gold 
 dust. The hardier they are grown, the more visible it will 
 appear. (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 Elichrysums. This genus is now extinct, and two splendid 
 species of it given to others. E. proliferum is now Phoena' 
 coma prolifera, and has beautiful purple-rayed flowers, and 
 highly esteemed : the foliage -small, round, ovate, smooth, and 
 closely imbricated. E. spectdhlle is now Aphilexis hiimilis, 
 has pine-like foliage, and large light purple flowers. Care 
 must be taken that they are not over-watered ; drain the pots 
 well. (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Enkidnthus, only two species, both very fine. E. quinque- 
 Jlorus has large ovate, acuminate foliage, flowers pink and 
 pendulous; very handsome. E. reticuldnis, the foliage is 
 netted, and the flowers blush : they are liable, when dormant, 
 to suff'er from wet. Be sure to drain the pots well, and be 
 sparing in water while in that state. (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 Epdcris, above twelve species, and all very ornamental. 
 
 E. grandijibra has been celebrated ever since it was known; 
 the foliage is small, flat, and acuminate ; flowers tubular and 
 pendulous ; bright crimson, with a tinge of white, and very 
 abundant ; in flower from January to June. E. pulcMlla is 
 likewise a most beautiful plant ; foliage very small and closely 
 set, flowers pure white, and in long spikes, sweet-scented. 
 E. imprdssa, foliage impressed, and flowers of a rose colour. 
 E. paluddsa, flowers white, grows and flowers very hand- 
 somely, and is very fragrant. E. purpwdscens T^ibra is a 
 variety, with good bright red flowers. E. p)(dUda, rose-co- 
 loured, long tubular flowers. E. nivalis, rosy white. E. 
 Tovniii, beautiful rosy blush colour. These, with several 
 others, are very desirable. They are mostly erect-growing 
 plants ; flower from January till August, and a rough, turfy, 
 sandy soil is found most congenial. They are natives of tha 
 mountainous districts of New South Wales. The pots must 
 
Maich-I GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 231 
 
 be well drained ; the roots will run with avidity among the 
 potshreds. (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Ericas, heath. There are in cultivation in Europe above 
 five hundred and fifty species and vai-ieties of this magnificent 
 genus. About sixty years ago it consisted only of a few 
 humble British plants, with the heath of Spain, U. Mediter- 
 ranea, which is at present mosl common in our collections, 
 though in a few years we may expect to see it supplanted by 
 others more splendid. 
 
 In their native countries they are adapted to a great many 
 useful purposes. In the north ^.f Britain the poorer inhabit- 
 ants cover their cabins or huts with heath, and build the walls 
 with alternate layers of it and a kind of cement made with 
 straw and clay. They likewise brew ale and distil spirits from 
 the tender shoots; and it has b*^en known to be used in dye- 
 ing, tanning, and many other useful domestic purposes. En- 
 comium on their beauty is not r^^quisite ; they are almost as 
 diversified in colour as colour itself. Many are graceful and 
 elegant ; hundreds are pretty ; a few noble and splendid ; 
 others grotesque, curious, and odoriferous. To cultivate and 
 propagate them is considered onr^ of the most delicate branches 
 of floriculture. Nevertheless, it has been said by a scientific 
 writer, that "those who compl?in of the difficulty of grow- 
 ing the heath, are ignorant people, who have never had a 
 heath to grow." The most splendid collection in Europe is 
 under the care of Mr. M'Nab, of the Royal Botanic Garden, 
 Edinburgh, where there are two large houses devoted to their 
 culture ; and through the whole year a continued profusion 
 of bloom is kept up. Some ^f the plants are eight feet in 
 diameter and fourteen feet high. The soil used is a coarse 
 sandy peat. Pots drained with potshreds, and pieces of free- 
 stone are put down the sides of \,he large pots and tubs ; where 
 these can be had they aro essential to the culture of moun- 
 tainous plants, preventing them from being saturated with 
 moisture, or from becoming dry, thus keeping the roots in a 
 medium state ; for if once the roots are allowed to get tho- 
 roughly dried, no art of the gardener can recover them. This 
 n..ay be the true reason why they are said to be difficult of 
 cultivation. 
 
 In the summer season, the pots must be kept out of the 
 riolent sun, for in a few hours the pots would become heated| 
 
232 
 
 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 
 
 \_Mareh. 
 
 dry the roots, and cause death, or a brownness of foliage 
 which would never again become natural. In winter, too, 
 much fire heat will also hurt them. They only require to be 
 kept free from frost, need a great deal of air, and plenty of 
 light; consequently, should be placed near the glass, that 
 they may have the benefit of all the air that is admitted. 
 Their flowers are as varied in shape as variety or colour, but 
 they all partake of a wax-like nature, and are very persistent. 
 (Soil No. 5 for young plants: when older, No. 6 will do 
 better.) 
 
 The finest and most select varieties that appear to withstand 
 the severity of the summer are the following : 
 
 WHITE FLOWERS. 
 
 Arhorea, 
 
 Bowiednay 
 
 Cdfra, 
 
 Co7iferta, 
 
 Jesminajibra, 
 
 MargarUdceaj 
 
 Odordta, 
 
 Pellucida, 
 
 PJiylicbides. 
 
 YELLOW FLOWERS. 
 
 Capitdta, 
 Epistoma, 
 Grandiflbra. 
 
 SCARLET FLOWERS. 
 
 RED FLOAVERS. 
 
 Bella, 
 
 Ganaliculatay 
 
 Ourvrjibra rtlhra, 
 
 Gracilis, 
 
 Ignescens, 
 
 Flukenetii, 
 
 Pi Ilea, 
 
 3Iediterrdnea. 
 
 Ardens, 
 Coccinea, 
 
 " grandiflbra, PURPLE FLOWERS, 
 Yernix coccinea, 
 Vestita coccinea. Amcena. 
 
 Denticuldta, 
 
 Fasciculdris, 
 
 Sispidula, 
 
 Mammosa^ 
 
 Pubescens, 
 
 Tenella. 
 
 VARIOUS COLOURS 
 
 Ahetina, 
 Bdccans, 
 Cerinthbides. 
 
 Criienta svjperha, 
 Ruhida, 
 Tuhiflbra, 
 Ventricbsa superba. 
 
 Eriahbtrya japdnica, Loquat, or Ilespilus japdnica, is a 
 fine plant, with large lanceolate, distinctly serrated leaves, 
 white underneath ; small white flowers on a racemose spike, 
 and produces a fruit about the size of a walnut, of a fine 
 yellow blush colour, and of tartish flavour. If it flowers in 
 the autumn, it will require the heat of a hot-house to ripen 
 
March.'\ GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. ? 'na 
 
 the fruit It is of very easy culture, and its noble aspect is 
 never passed unobserved. It is perfectly hardy in the Southern 
 States, and forms a handsome evergreen. (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 Erodiums, Heron's bill. There are about thirty species, 
 all of a geranium character, and there are among them some 
 very pretty flowering, soft-wooded, shrubby, herbaceous, and 
 annual plants. Only a few of them belong to the green-house, 
 of which E. incarndtum, E. crasst'fblmm, and E. lacinidtuni 
 are the finest ; culture similar to Genhiium. The flowers of 
 these are scarlet, pentapetalous and veiny. (Soil No. 10.) 
 
 Eri/thiina crlstdgdlli, or Coral plant. If this magnificent 
 scarlet flowering plant is desired to be kept in a pot or tub, 
 it must have a repotting every month till September : to keep 
 it in fine blooming condition, it is worthy of extra care, as it 
 will bloom three times during the season, if well treated. 
 (Soil No. 18.) For other methods, see Flower-Garden for 
 April, May, and November. 
 
 Escalldnia, a shrubby genus, of about ten species, of rather 
 neat blooming plants, of a strong shrubby habit. They re- 
 quire great encouragement to flower them well, if kept in pots ; 
 the best mode of treatment would be to plant them in pits with 
 other half hardy shrubs. E. rubra, red flowering ; E. grandi- 
 Jiora, white; E. macrantlia, a very beautiful evergreen, pro- 
 fusely covered with waxy pink flowers, are the finest. (Soil 
 No. 12.) They are perfectly hardy south of Virginia, and we 
 are not certain but they may become acclimated here. 
 
 Eucalyptus, above fifty species of them, and the tallest 
 growing trees of New Holland ; foliage very diversified, 
 generally of a hard glaucous texture. From their rapid 
 growth, they soon grow higher than the loftiest house. The 
 most conspicuous are E. corddta, E. rostrdta, E. radidta, 
 E. pidvigera, E. glbhifera, E pulveruUnta, and E. resinifera. 
 In Van Diemen's Land, a manufactory has been established, 
 where a tannin is extracted from many of the species. The 
 last mentioned produces gum like that which the druggists 
 call Kino. They ought not to be too much fostered, as it 
 would in some degree retard their growth. They are of a 
 very hardy nature. When large, the plants will flower freely, 
 and are similar in flower to Myrtle ; many stamina, proceeding 
 from a hard nut-like capsule. (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Euonymus, a few of this genus h-ive been recently intro- 
 20* 
 
234 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. [March. 
 
 duced from China and Japan. Such as U. japonica* with 
 its burnished green foliage, and its variety with silver-edged 
 foliage — E. jimbriata, large dark-green foliage. They all 
 produce scarlet berries in winter, and are highly ornamental 
 in the South for hedges, lawns, or edgings. They are green- 
 house plants in the Eastern and Northern States. (Soil No. 
 
 11-) 
 
 Eupatorium. There is only one species deserving of culti- 
 vation in the green-house; flowers syngenesious, white, and 
 in large flattened panicles ; very sweet-scented. The plant, 
 when growing freely, in the beginning of summer, should be 
 topped, which would make it more bushy ; if not, it is apt to 
 grow straggling. Known in our collections as E. elegdns. 
 (Soil No. 8.) 
 
 Eutdxias, two species. E. myrtifolia is a most beautiful 
 free-flowering evergreen shrub ; foliage small, but very neat ; 
 flowers leguminose, small and very many ; colour yellow and 
 red ; grows freely. The young plants should be frequently 
 topped, or they will grow naked and unsightly. E. pungcns, 
 similar to the other except in foliage. They flower from 
 March to June, and ought to have a place in every green- 
 house. Culture very easy. (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Ftcus, a few species, arc good plants for this department, 
 especially F. eldstica; leaves smooth, shining green, fre- 
 quently six inches wide and twelve long : this is the plant 
 that produces the gum elastic or Indian rubber. E. aus- 
 trdlis is also an excellent evergreen, with elliptic dull-green 
 foliage ; very rusty underneath ; they grow almost too freely. 
 (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 Fuchsia, or Ladies' Ear-drop. There is an endless variety 
 of this lovely genus of deciduous small shrubs now cultivated, 
 and are indispensable decorations during the summer and au- 
 tumnal months for our green-houses, conservatories, piazzas, 
 and verandahs. If we had only a cellar, a window, or a 
 piazza, we would have a Fuchsia. Amongst the many scar- 
 lets we name Alp)ha, Caroline, Don Giovanna, Expansion, 
 Gem, Orion, and Yoltigeur. These are very superb varieties; 
 some of the flowers are two and a half inches long and two 
 inches in diameter. The following are light-coloured varieties, 
 
 * This plant is in some collections as a variegated-leaved camellia, 
 and IS perfectly bar ly with us. Does well in the shade. 
 
MarcJi.'] GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 235 
 
 indeed nearly white, with a purple or pink centre, forming a 
 beautiful contrast with the deep crimson and purple sorts ; 
 Elizabeth, Pearl of Enrjland^ Prince Arthur, Madam Sontay, 
 Sidovia. To grow these in perfection, they require to be 
 very frequently shifted, as they advance in growth, till you 
 have them in pots ten inches wide. Just now, I have plants 
 only sis months from the cutting that are four feet high 
 and sixteen feet in circumference, loaded with thousands 
 of flowers, and are the admiration of every beholder. They 
 require liberal supplies of water. F. Julgens is a distinct 
 species; the foliage is very different from any other sort; 
 leaves of a well-grown plant are four inches wide and five 
 inches and a half long : the flowers are from two inches and 
 a half to three inches long, of a pink and scarlet colour, and 
 the plant is nearly tuberous. We would recommend our 
 readers to grow them from seeds when obtained : it is well 
 known they will produce variety, and it is even supposed by 
 some that the seeds of F. coccinea have produced by hy- 
 bridizing nearly all the varieties of the present day, which 
 exceed one hundred : most of the flowers are a bright scarlet, 
 the stamens are encircled with a petal of bright purple, and 
 are of very curious construction; they bear a dark purple 
 berry, and are of the easiest cultivation ; but during summer 
 the pots must be carefully kept from the sun, although the 
 plants will not be affected by it. If the plants are young 
 and growing freely, we find that a deluge of rain, and after- 
 wards a hot day, is their instant death. Some of them do 
 tolerably well when planted in the flower-garden early in 
 May. (Soil No. 10.) 
 
 Fahidna, a genus of new plants that will prove entirely 
 hardy in the Southern States ; they are upright-growing 
 shrubs, with delicate foliage. F. imhricdfa is the most popu- 
 lar, producing a profusion of white tubular flowers about an 
 inch long, of easy culture in soil No. 12. 
 
 Gardoqiua Hookeri, a very pretty dwarf plant — native of 
 the Floridas ; it blooms profusely from June to October ; 
 flowers are about one inch and a half long, of a tubular 
 labiate form, of a bright orange colour; it is easy of culture 
 in soil No. 1. 
 
 Gelsemium nitidum, Carolina jasmine, a most beautiful 
 climbing evergreen, flowering shrub. In the months of April 
 and May it produces many large jellow trumpet-like blossoma 
 
236 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. [Jfan/i 
 
 of delicious fragrance. If much encouraged in growth, it 
 ■will not flower so freely. (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Genista : a few of these are very pretty, free-flowering 
 shrubs. G. ramosus, G. caiiariensis, G. tricuqjiddta, G. 
 cuspidosa, and G. umhelldta, are the finest green-house spe- 
 cies. All of them have yellow leguminose flowers in great 
 abundance; leaves small, lanceolate. (Soil No. 1.) 
 
 Geranium, Cranes-bill, a distinct family from the Pelargo- 
 nium, though adapted to the same culture and even more, 
 extensively as border or bedding-out plants that ornament the 
 parterre from May to November with their dazzling scarlet 
 and bright pink flowers, very generally known as Fish or 
 Horse-shoe geraniums. In pots, they bloom in the green- 
 house the whole winter ; and where that convenience is not at 
 band, they do very well in a dry cellar, free from frost, from 
 whence take them in April, cut them well down, and plant 
 them into the garden in rich soil; the cuttings, after being 
 allowed to dry a few days, may be planted, and will by mid- 
 summer bloom profusely; when frost approaches, place them 
 in their winter quarters. The best are, Brompton Hero, Tom 
 Thumb, Gem, Royalist and Symmetry, all scarlets; Flower of 
 the' Day and Queen of Summer, variegated leaved ; Luceo 
 Ilo!3ea, Princess Alice and Lady Holmsdale, pinks; not omitting 
 Hendersonii, the new white-flowered variety. 
 
 G7iaphdlium, everlasting. There are about ten species, 
 most of them very splendid, persistent flowers. G. exlmia, 
 has brilliant red flowers. G. spiralis, G. speciosissima, G. 
 friLticans, G. orianfdlum, and G. hnhricdtum, are all very 
 fine; pots must be well drained. (Soil No. 8.) 
 
 Gorteria persondta is the only species that belongs to this 
 genus, and is an annual. There are several plants in our 
 collections known as Gorterias, but which properly are Gazd- 
 nia, of which there are five species. G. ringens, when the 
 flowers are fully expanded (which will only be while exposed 
 to the sun, closing at night, and opening again with the in- 
 fluence of the sun's rays), is a great beauty. The rays of 
 the flowers are bright orange, and the centre dark purple. 
 G. pavbnia has handsome foliage; flowers similar to G. rin- 
 ijcns, except the centre of the flower being spotted, and ia 
 thought to be the finest, but does not flower so freely. G. 
 heteropliylla is of the same character, except the foliage, 
 vrhich is variable, the colour orange and vermilion. They 
 
JUarch.'} green-house — ^repottino. 237 
 
 are dwarf-growing plants, and during the montbs of July, 
 August, and September, are liable to damp off at the surface 
 of tbe eartb, from the action of heat and too much water. 
 Pots must be well drained, and the plants kept partially in 
 the shade. Their flowers are syngenesious, and about two 
 inches in diameter. (Soil No. 9.) 
 
 Habrdnthus, about ten species of small South American 
 bulbs, nearly allied to Amaryllis. H. Andersdnii, H. ver&i' 
 color, H. Candida, and H. rohusta, are fine ; they are in 
 colour yellow, blue, white, and lilac. We have very little 
 doubt but these bulbs will do to plant out in the garden in 
 April, and be lifted in October. Keep them from frost. 
 Thus treated, they are very desirable. (Soil No. 12.) 
 
 Ileli/chrysums, above forty species, chiefly belonging to the 
 green-house — all everlasting flowers. H. grandijibrum, H. 
 arhoreum, H.frdgrans, H. adoratlssimum, H. /ruticans, and 
 H. fiUyidiim, are all very esteemed species, mostly with soft 
 downy foliage. The pots should be well drained, and the 
 plants kept in an airy situation, as they suff"er from the least 
 damp. If the flowers are cut off" before they fade, they will 
 retain for many years all the splendour of their beauty; but 
 if allowed to decay on the plant, they will soon become musty, 
 and all their colour fade. (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Hihhertlas, about ten species. Three of them are known 
 to be fine climbing evergreen shrubs, namely, H. glossular- 
 ice/olia ; H. dentdia; H. voluhiUs, if closely approached, has 
 a disagreeable smell; H. fasciciddta, H. Saligna, and H. 
 pedunciddta, are evergreen shrubs ; they have pure yellow 
 flowers of five petals, blooming from May to September. 
 (Soil No. 12.) 
 
 Hdveas, about eight species, pretty plants of New South 
 Wales, blue pea-flowering evergreen shrubs; the finest are 
 IT. pandsa, H. atropui-piirea, H. linedris, H. rosmarinifolia, 
 H. long I folia, and H. Oelsii, which is the most superb, and 
 flowers in abundance. They grow and flower freely; the pota 
 should be drained. (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Hypericums, St. John's wort, about twenty species. A few 
 of them are very showy, and with few exceptions have yellow 
 flowers. H. mondgyniun, H. halearicum, H. Jlorihiindum, 
 H. canariense, II. cegyptiacum and H. cochin-chinense, which 
 has scarlet flowers, are among the best, and all of them flower 
 freely; five petals, filaments many in three or five parcels. 
 
238 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. iMdrch. 
 
 They are all of very easy cultivation, and bloom generally 
 from April to September. (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 Hydrangea hortensis is a well-known plant, and much 
 esteemed for its great profusion of very elegant, though mon- 
 strous flowers. They are naturally of a pink colour, but 
 under certain circumstances of culture they become blue. If 
 grown in brown loam with a little sand, they will preserve 
 their original colour ; but if grown in swamp earth with a 
 little mould of decayed leaves, they will become blue.* 
 The swamp earth and vegetable mould being more combined 
 with aluminous salt than brown loam, is the cause of the 
 change : and, when first found out (which was merely by 
 chance), was thought a great wonder. It must have a very 
 plentiful supply of water when in flower, which is produced on 
 the shoots of the previous year. They will neither grow nor 
 flower well if they are not kept constantly in the shade. 
 When kept in the sun, the foliage is very brown; and by 
 being neglected in watering, we have seen the flowers com- 
 pletely scourged. S. Japdnica, a new variety with pink 
 flowers, and the same disposition to change colour, a little fra- 
 grant. Being tolerably hardy, when the winters are mild, by 
 a little protection iu the open air, they will flower profusely ; 
 the flowers will be very large, and in bloom from June to Oc- 
 tober. They are deciduous, soft-wooded shrubs. 
 
 Ilex, Holly, of /. aquifolium. There are above one hun- 
 dred of them in cultivation in Europe, difi"ering in variegation, 
 margin shape, and size of the leaves : some are only prickly 
 on the ruargin of the foliage, others prickly over all the sur- 
 face. In Europe they are all hardy, but with us few or none 
 of the varieties are so. If they become acclimated, they will 
 be a great ornament to our gardens, being all low evergreen 
 shrubs. The most common and conspicuous varieties are the 
 hedge-hog, striped hedge-hog, lohite hedge, gold edged, and 
 painted ; the flowers are white and small, berries yellow or 
 red; they do not agree with exposure to the sun. /. Casslne 
 and I. vomitbria have very bitter leaves, and, though natives 
 of Carolina, we have to give them the protection of a green- 
 bouse. It is said that at certain seasons of the year the In- 
 
 * Mix the iron sparks from the blacksmith's shop with any kind of 
 soil, and they -will be a beautiful blue. One and a half quarts to a 
 bushel will do. 
 
March.'] GREEN-HOUSE — ^REPOTTING. 239 
 
 dkns make a strong decoction of the leaves, whicli makes 
 them vomit freely, and after drinking and vomiting for a few 
 days they consider themselves sufficiently purified. (Soil No. 
 
 Illiciums, Anise-seed tree, three species. I. Jloriddnum has 
 very sweet-scented, double purple flowers, and the plant grows 
 freely and systematically if properly treated, and deserves 
 particular attention. 1. parvijlbrwn has small yellow flowers ; 
 /. anisdtum is so very like /. parvijlorum in every respect as 
 to make us conclude they are the same, were I. anisdtum not 
 a native of China, and the other two natives of Florida. 
 When the leaves and capsules of either of them are rubbed, 
 they have a very strong smell of anise ; they grow very freely. 
 (Soil No. 1.) 
 
 Indigbfera ; Indigo tree, about twenty species, belong to 
 the green-house, and are chiefly pretty free-flowering shrubs. 
 I. denuddta, I. amcena, I. austrdlis, I. angiddta, I. cdndi- 
 cans, and /. Jili/dlia, are very fine ; flowers papilionaceous, in 
 long panicles; colour various, red, blue, yellow and pink. 
 (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Jacksdnias, a genus consisting of five species. The foliage 
 is varied, and all natives of New South Wales. J. scopdria, 
 J. hdrrida, and J. reticuldta, are the finest ; the small flowers 
 come out of the young shoots, are yellow and papilionaceous; 
 the pots should be well drained. (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Jamhosa vidgdris, or Eugeriia j'dmbds, is a splendid ever- 
 green tree, producing a fruit of an agreeable odour and called 
 rose apple, t/. austrdlis has a very neat habit, and produces 
 purple fruit; they are of the earliest culture in soil No. 12. 
 
 Jasminum, Jasmine. A few species of this genus are 
 celebrated either for the green-house or rooms. J. odoratis- 
 simuvi, Azorian, has very sweet-scented yellow flowers, bloom- 
 ing from April to November. J. i-emliitum is the earliest 
 flowering one, and of the same colour; it is apt to grow 
 straggling, and should be close pruned as soon as done 
 blooming, which will be in May. J. puhigerum is also yel- 
 low. J. grandijibrum is frequently called Catalonian, and 
 should be pruned early in spring to make it bloom well, 
 ^specially old plants. J. multijlbrum, profuse flowering white. 
 /. nudijlorum, a beautiful winter blooming species, recently 
 from Japan. These plants are all perfectly hardy in the 
 Sou4.k«;rn States. J. ojficindle is a hardy climbing plant for 
 
240 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. iMarch. 
 
 arbours, walls, &c. There are several varieties of it. (Soil 
 No. 3.) 
 
 Justicias. Only a few of these belong to the green-house. 
 J. carnea is the most splendid, being crowned with its bright 
 rosy pink spikes of flowers nearly the whole year. Give it 
 good large pots, well drained. J. adhdtoda, Malabar-nut. 
 These are the only ones that are worth observation, and are 
 very easily cultivated in any soil. 
 
 Kennedias, about twelve species, all beautiful evergreen 
 climbers of the easiest culture, and flower abundantly. K. 
 monophylla, blue-flowered, and K. ruhicunda, crimson-flow- 
 ered, are common in our collections. K. prostrdta, one- 
 flowered scarlet, and K. coccinea, many-flowered scarlet, are 
 very pretty. K. Comptonidna has splendid purple flowers, 
 K. nigricans, black flowers, and K. spUndens and K. marry- 
 dtta are thought the most superb. They have bright crimson 
 flowers, and are yet rare in our collections. The pots should 
 be well drained; flowers are either in racemose spikes or 
 solitary, which is rather too much distinction for the same 
 genus. (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Lasiopeialums, only two species. There were a few more, 
 but they are now Thomdsias, plants of no merit whatever 
 in regard to flower; foliage three-lobed, small, rough, and 
 rusty-like. Thomdsia solandcca and T. quercifdlia are the 
 best species; foliage of the former is large, cordate, and 
 deeply indented ; thev are all of the easiest culture. (Soil 
 No. 1.) 
 
 Latlrus. A few species are green-house plants. This 
 genus has been divided to Cinnamdmuni ; still there are a 
 few celebrated plants in the original. L. ndbilis, sweet-bay, 
 though hardy, is kept under protection. It will bear the 
 winter with a little straw covering; notwithstanding, there 
 should be a plant kept in the house in case of accident by 
 frost or otherwise ; there is a variegated variety of it. L. 
 indica, royal bay, L. foetens, L. aggregdta and L. glauca, 
 are favourites. There is a species known in our collections 
 as L. scdbra. The Camphor tree, known as L. camphdra, is 
 Cinndmomum campho7-a ; the wood, leaves, and roots of this 
 tree have a very strong odour of camphor. It is obtained 
 by distillation from the roots and small branches, which are 
 cut into chips, and put into a net suspended within an iron 
 pot, the bottom of which is covered with water, having ap 
 
March.'] GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 241 
 
 earthen head fitted in it; heat is then applied, and the steam 
 )f the boiling water acting upon the contents of the net, 
 elevates the camphor into the capital, where it concretes on 
 the staws, with which this part of the apparatus is lined. 
 Thej are all fine evergreens (which the name denotes), and 
 easily cultivated. (Soil No. 10.) 
 
 Lavdndulas, Lavender. About seven species belong to the 
 green-house, and a few of them very pretty soft-wooded, half 
 shrubby plants, and, if touched, are highly scented. L. den- 
 tdta has narrow serrated foliage, very neat ; L. formbsa, and 
 L. pinnata are desirable; blue flowers on a long spike; should 
 be kept near to the glass ; they are of the easiest culture. 
 (Soil No. 7.) 
 
 Lechenaultia ; four species of pretty dwarf blooming plants. 
 L. formosa is almost always a picture with its bright scarlet 
 flowers and heath-like foliage, and ought to be in every col- 
 lection ; L. hilbba and L. Dntmmdndii are both blue, though 
 very rarely seen in bloom ; fine plants two years old with us 
 have not yet shown a flower; they must have an airy situa- 
 tion, and near the front glass; otherwise they will be weak 
 and spindling. (Soil No.- 19.) 
 
 Leonbtis, Lion's-ear, four species. They have very fine 
 scarlet tubular flowers, orifice-toothed. They come out in 
 large whorls, and look elegant ; but neither plant nor foliage 
 has an agreeable appearance. They are of the easiest culture, 
 L. intermedia and L. Leoniirus are the best flowering species. 
 (Soil No. 7.) 
 
 Leptospermums, about thirty species, all pretty New Hol- 
 land evergreen dwarf shrubs, with small white flowers. Jj. 
 haccdtum, L. pendulum, L. Juntperinum, L. ovdium, L. 
 stelldtum, L. grandijibrum, and L. scopdrium, are the best 
 of the species. The latter was used as tea by the crew of 
 Captain Cook's ship. It is an agreeable bitter, with a pleasant 
 flavour when fresh. When young plants are growing, they 
 ought to be frequently topped to make them bushy, and kept 
 in an airy situation, or they will be drawn and unsightly. They 
 are of very easy culture. (Soil No. 1.) 
 
 Leucadendrons, Silver tree, above forty species, all natives 
 of the Cape of Good Hope. They are evergreens, with hand- 
 some silvery-like foliage. L. argenteum (once Prbtas argentea) 
 is a great beauty ; foliage white, lanceolate and silky. It is a 
 plant that has been long in cultivation, greatly admired, and 
 21 
 
242 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. [March, 
 
 much sought for, and is the finest of the genus. L- squar- 
 rosum, L. stelldtum, (once Prbtea stelldris), L. tortum, L. 
 serviceum, L. marginatum, and L. plumbsum, (once P. par- 
 viflora^ are all fine species. The pots must be well drained 
 and the plants never over-watered. They are very desirable 
 in collections for their beauty of foliage. (Soil No. 9.) 
 
 Leucos2)ermums, about eighteen species of Proteacous plants, 
 chiefly low-growing, and are mostly downy or hairy ; flowers 
 yellow, in terminal heads. L. formdsum, L. grandijlbmm, 
 L. toi7ien(dsum, and L. candicans, rose-scented. These are 
 fine species. For treatment, see Proteas. (Soil No. 9.) 
 
 Linums, flax, two or three species are very fine, and flower 
 freely. L. trigynum has large yellow flowers in clusters, and 
 L. ascyrifbliuvi, whose flowers are large, blue and white, and 
 in long spikes. They bloom in February ; the shape of them 
 is very like the flower vulgarly called Morning-glory. (Soil 
 No. 4.) 
 
 Lobelias. Several of them, when well treated, form pretty 
 flowering plants ; they are principally herbaceous. The genus 
 consists of about eighty species ; seventy of them are exotics ; 
 many of them natives of the Cape pf Good Hope, with little 
 flowers of brilliant colours. L. caeriJea, L. Thxinhergii, L. 
 cori/mbbsa, L. loi/ramidalis, L. erines, and L. iUicifblia, are 
 very fine species, of weak growth, but flower freely. (Soil 
 No. 4.) 
 
 Lonlcera japdnica. There is a plant in our collections 
 known by that name, which is now JVintod a longijlora ; flowers 
 of. a straw-colour, but come out white. It has been known to 
 withstand the winter, but does not flower, and is frequently 
 killed entirely; is a fine climber, and much esteemed in the 
 South for its fragrance. (Soil No. 3.) 
 
 Lophospermum scdndens. This is a magnificent climbing 
 soft-wooded shrub, with rosy purple, campanulate flowers, 
 which are produced from the axils on the young wood ; they 
 bloom from May to September; leaves large, cordate, and 
 tomentose; grows rapidly, and flowers abundantly. (Soil 
 No. 3.) 
 
 Lychnis corondta, is an esteemed Chinese plant ; flowers in 
 abundance, pentapetalous, large, and a little indented at the 
 edges ; colour a red-like orange ; flowers terminal and axillary. 
 A good method of treatment is to divide the roots, and plant 
 some of them in the garden ; they will flower well, and could 
 
March.^ green-house — eepottimw. 243 
 
 be lifted in the fall, and put under protection. If not done 
 so, plant them in four-inch pots, and repot them into those of 
 six-inch in May. Do not expose them while in flower to the 
 mid-day sun, for it will deteriorate the fine orange-colour. 
 (Soil No. 9.) 
 
 Magnolias. There are four species that require the pro- 
 tection of our green-houses; all the others are hardy. M. 
 fuscata and M. annono'/dlia are very similar in foliage and 
 flower; the young branches and leaves of 31. fuscata are 
 covered with a brown, rusty-like down ; the other by some 
 is considered merely a variety ; flowers small, brown, and 
 very sweet-scented. M. pumila is very dwarf-growing; leaves 
 large and netted ; flowers semi-double, white, pendent, and 
 exceedingly fragrant. They are natives of China. We have 
 several others from the East, but being deciduous are perfectly 
 hardy. M. odoraiissima, now Talduma Condolii, is a native 
 of the Island of Java, and considered odoriferous, but it is 
 very rare even in Europe ; said to have a straw-coloured 
 flower. (Soil No. 9.) 
 
 Mahernia ; a genus of dwarf plants, with yellow, orange, 
 or pink flowers. M. odorata is extensively cultivated for the 
 fragrance of its bell-shaped blossoms, that hang in great pro- 
 fusion early in spring. Foliage small, crenulated, and heart- 
 shaped. (Soil No. 17.) 
 
 Maneffia; a genus of pretty climbing plants, producing a 
 profusion of scarlet flowers, especially M. ijldhra (of Don), or 
 cordifbUa (of Paxton), which is a complete mass of flowers 
 from July to October, and is a lovely object when turned into 
 the borders during the summer. M. hicdlor, red and yellow, 
 blooms through the winter, and is a charming climber in that 
 dull period of flowers ; they are of the easiest culture in soil 
 No. 17. 
 
 Melaleucas, above thirty species, and a beautiful genus of 
 New Holland plants, of easy culture ; flowers come out of the 
 wood-like fringes. 31. elliptica, 31. fuhjenSj scarlet, J/1 de- 
 cussdta, 31. hyperici folia, 31. squarrdsa, 31. linarifdlia, M. 
 tncdiia, 31. tetragonia, 31. thymifdlia, are all very fine species, 
 and flower freely if they have been grown from cuttings ; the 
 singularity of flower and diversity of foliage make them gene- 
 rally admired. (Soil No. 1.) 
 
 Meldstoma nepaUnsis is a good green-house species, flower- 
 ing freely during winter, of a pale blush colour, and is of the 
 
244 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. iMarch. 
 
 easiest culture. As soon as done blooming, the plant should 
 De well cut in to keep it into shape. (Soil No. 1.) 
 
 Ilespilus. See Eryahotrya. 
 
 MetrosuUros, about fifteen species. Many have been added 
 to Callistemon. 31. Jlurida, M. iimhelldta, and M. anyusti- 
 fblia, G. salujnum, C. lanceoldtum, C. semperjlbrens, C 
 glaucum, once M. sjjecidsa, and C. formdsvni ; . these are all 
 beautiful plants, with scarlet flowers. Other two beautiful 
 species with white flowers have been given to Angophdra. 
 A. cordifblia, once M. Mspida, and A. lanceoldta, once M. 
 costdta ; these genera are very easily distinguished from any 
 other Australasian shrubs, by the peculiar character of having 
 both sides of the leaves alike. The flowers consist of stamens, 
 stiles, and anthers, coming in hundreds out of the young wood 
 for the length of three or four inches, forming a dense cone 
 crowned with a small twig; hence frequently called "bottle- 
 brush plant;" leaving capsules in the wood, which will keep 
 their seeds perfect for a great number of years. They grow 
 freely, and the pots should be well drained. (Soil No. 1.) 
 
 Mijrsines, Cape Myrtle, dwarf Cape evergreen shrubs covered 
 with small flowers from March to May. M. rettlsa has purple 
 flowers; M. rotundifblia, flowers white and purple. They 
 will grow in any situation, and are of easy culture. (Soil 
 No. 1.) 
 
 Myrhis, Myrtle, is a well-known and popular shrub, espe- 
 cially the common varieties, and was a great favourite (even 
 to adoration) among the ancients. It was the mark of autho- 
 rity for Athenian rulers, and is among the moderns an 
 emblem of pre-eminence. They aro elegant evergreen shrubs 
 with an agreeable odour. 31. communis viidtiplex, double 
 flowering, is a very neat shrub, and flowers abundantly. 31. 
 communis, Icucocdrpa, white-fi'uited myrtle. 31. itdlica vari- 
 egdta, striped-leaved; 3i. itdlica. macu/dfa, blotch-leaved, are 
 very fine shrubs; and 31. tomentbsa, Chinese myrtle, is a 
 magnificent erect-growing shrub, with a white down over the 
 foliage; the flowers are the largest of the genus. When they 
 first expand they are purple, and afterwards change to white, 
 so that there are beautiful flowers of several shades of colour 
 on the plant. We have not the smallest doubt but this species 
 will become, in many instances, as plentiful as the common 
 myrtle. It is more easily grown, but cannot stand much ex- 
 posure to the sun in summer. 31. tenuifblia is a very fine 
 
March.'] GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. &4 S 
 
 plant, and a native of New South Wales. Myrtles in general 
 should be sprinkled with water in the evening, to keep off the 
 red spider. (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 JV^cindina domestica, a very hardy species, and a popular 
 shrub in the gardens of Japan, where it is called Nandin. 
 It has supra-decompound leaves, with entire lanceolate leaf- 
 lets, a kind of foliage that is very rare; the flowers are small, 
 whitish-green, in panicles, succeeded by berries of the size of 
 a pea; drain the pots well. (Soil No. 1.) 
 
 JVerium (Oleander) is a genus of beautiful erect-growing 
 evergreen shrubs, of the easiest culture, and abundant in 
 flower. JV. oleander is the common rose-coloured single 
 flowering species, from which many varieties have originated. 
 At present the most popular is N. oleander spUndens, which 
 has a double rose-coloured flower, N. o. striata Jl. pi. has 
 doubled striped flowers. N. macrophyllum has very large 
 double pink flowers. N. o. rogino't, or tangle, has deep crim- 
 son flowers striped with white, though they are frequently of 
 a pink colour. JV. .\ purpurea, dark red. There is one that 
 has got into our collections as double white, which is only 
 semi-double. N. oleander elegantissimum, a most beautiful 
 plant with deep silver-edged foliage; and the young wood is 
 striped white and green. There are likewise single yellow 
 single white, and single blotched varieties of N. oleander 
 They are subject to the small white scaly insect, and shoulc 
 be frequently washed, as has been directed, to keep it off. 
 (Soil No. 12.) 
 
 Okas, Olive, about twelve species and varieties. 0. Eu- 
 ropcea longifolia is the species that is cultivated to such an 
 extent in the south of France, and Italy. 0. Europcea 
 latlfblia is chiefly cultivated in Spain. The fruit is larger 
 than that of Italy, but the oil is not so pleasant, which is 
 obtained by crushing the fruit to a paste, and pressing it 
 through a woollen bag, adding hot water as long as any oil is 
 yielded. The oil is then skimmed off the water, and put into 
 barrels, bottles, &c., for use. The tree seldom exceeds thirty 
 feet, and is a branchy, glaucous evergreen, and is said to be 
 of great longevity. Some plantations at Turin, in Italy, arw 
 supposed to have existed from the time of Pliny. It fre- 
 quently flowers in our collections, but seldom carries fruit ; 
 flowers white, in small racemose axillary spikes. 0. capmsis 
 has thick, large, oblong foliage; flowers white in large ter- 
 21* 
 
246 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. [March. 
 
 minal panicles. 0. verrucosa, foliage flat, lanceolate, and 
 white beneath, branches curiously warted. 0. fragrdns blooms 
 in winter; foliage and blossoms are both highly odoriferous; 
 the plant is much esteemed in China, and is said to be used 
 to adulterate and flavour teas. Leaves are elliptic, lanceolate, 
 and a little serrated ; flowers white in lateral bunches. It is 
 subject to the small white scaly insect, and ought to be care- 
 fully kept from them by washing. 0. rosea has pink flowers. 
 0. 2)ciniculuta is also a fine species. They are all very easily 
 cultivated. (Soil No. 11,) 
 
 Oxylbhiums, seven species, plants very similar to Callista- 
 chys, with ovate, cordate, light-coloured pubescent foliage, with 
 papilionaceous flowers. 0. ohtusifblium has scarlet flowers ; 
 0. retusum, orange flowers ; and 0. eUljiticum, yellow flowers. 
 They grow freely and should be well drained; flower from 
 May to August. (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Passijiora ; a celebrated genus of climbing plants, called in 
 common " Passion Vine." Those belonging to the green- 
 house, flower during summer. Several of them are both 
 beautiful and profuse in bloom, especially P. Kermdsine, P. 
 princeps, P. hyhrXJa, P. fragrans, P. Newmannia, P. Lemo- 
 chentziann, and are a very distinct species ; the former is of a 
 beautiful rosy crimson colour. (Soil No. 13.) 
 
 Pelargoniums, Stork's Bill. This genus, so universally 
 known among us as Geranium, from wliich it was separated 
 many years ago, is a family of great extent and variety, for 
 which we are principally indebted to the Cape of Good Hope. 
 There are many hundred species, with upwards of twelve 
 hundred beautiful and well-marked varieties, which have been 
 obtained from seed. They are of eveiy character, colour, and 
 shade, of the most vivid description. The easy cultivation of 
 the Pclnrgbnium tribe, or Geranium.s, as they are commonly 
 called, has rendered them very popular ; also the agreeablenesa 
 of scent and fragrance, of Which many of them are possessed, 
 makes them favourites. 
 
 Their flowering season is also of considerable duration, espe- 
 cially the bright scarlet and crimson varieties, which bloom 
 from March till August, rendering them quite indispensable 
 in collections. Some growers complain of their straggling 
 habits ; but it is only those that do not know how to prune 
 them : even some of the choice kinds of the present day could 
 not be made to grow irregu. irly — such as Ajax, Forget-me-not, 
 
March."] GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 247 
 
 Orion, Virgin Queen, and others ; indeed, within these few- 
 years, the habits and beauties of the plant are improved a 
 hundred fold, and those who are only acquainted with the old 
 sorts would be transported with a view of the dazzling and 
 beauteous colony of the new kinds that have been procured 
 by hybridizing those of good habit and cliaracter. 
 
 The best method to adopt in impregnating these is to choose 
 the female, one that has large flowers, of easy cultivation, and 
 as nearly allied in character and other habits as possible. 
 When a flower of the intended female is newly expanded, 
 take a pair of very flne-pointed scissors, and cut off the 
 anthers before the pollen expands ; then, as soon as the 
 summit of the style divides, apply the pollen taken from the 
 anthers of the intended male plant on a very fine camel hair- 
 pencil, or cut out the stigma entirely, and place the anther on 
 the summit of the style, which, if correctly done, will have 
 the desired effect. As soon as the seed is ripe sow it in light 
 sandy soil ; and when it has come up, take care not to over- 
 water the soil, which would cause them to damp off. When 
 they are about one inch high, put them into small pots, and 
 treat as the other varieties. Have them all distinctly marked 
 until they flower, which will be in the second year fiom the 
 time of sowing. 
 
 The tuberous and fleshy stemmed species are very interest- 
 ing to the discriminating inquirer. Their habit and constitu- 
 tion are so peculiar that we have frequently wondered that 
 they have not been separated into distinct genera. The cul- 
 tivation of them is more difiicult, water being very prejudi- 
 cial to them when they are inactive. If they are well 
 managed, they flower beautifully, and the colours are very 
 superior and peculiar, having frequently bright green and 
 purple in the same flower. 
 
 The following list comprehends the most desirable varieties 
 that we have seen : — 
 
248 
 
 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 
 
 l^March 
 
 PURE WHITE, 
 
 MARKED OR STRIPED WITH 
 RED, PURPLE, OR CRIMSON. 
 
 Lord Warden, 
 
 Pearl, 
 
 Queen of Scots, 
 
 White Flag, 
 
 Village Maid, 
 
 Virgin Queen, 
 
 Witch. 
 
 BLUSH, 
 
 MARKED OR STRIPED WITH 
 RED, ETC. 
 
 Acme, 
 Juliette, 
 Miss Holford, 
 Paragon, 
 Symmetry. 
 
 PINK, 
 
 MARKED OR COLOUREE WITH 
 RED OR CRIMSON, 
 
 Admiration, 
 Blood Royal, 
 Elise, 
 
 Hebe's Lip, 
 Matilda, 
 Nestor. 
 
 ROSE, 
 
 WITH STRIPES OR SPOTS', 
 
 Hebe, 
 Paragon, 
 Rosa, 
 Hector, 
 Mark Antony, 
 Rosy circle. 
 
 RED OR SCARLET, 
 
 WITH STRIPES OR SPOTS. 
 
 Aurora, 
 (ilderman. 
 Chieftain, 
 Forget-me-not, 
 King, _ 
 Perfection, 
 Orion, 
 
 South Western. 
 Talisman. 
 
 VERY DARK CRIMSON, 
 OR PURPLE, 
 
 MARKED WITH BLACK. 
 
 Ajax Hoyle, 
 
 Arabian, 
 
 Enchantress, 
 
 Mustii, 
 
 Negress, 
 
 Ocellatura, 
 
 Sir Walter Raleigh, 
 
 Sir Henry Smyth, 
 
 Salamander. 
 
 FANCY COLOURS, 
 
 OF VARIOUS SHADES. 
 
 Anais, 
 
 Anatholie, 
 
 Clown, 
 
 Harlequin, 
 
 Jenny Lind, 
 
 Jehu, 
 
 La Belle Africaine, 
 
 Marion, 
 
 Queen Superba, 
 
 Statuiskii, 
 
 Wintonia. 
 
March.'] green-house — repotting. 249 
 
 VARIOUS; CURIOUS, AND FINE Ivy leaved, pink, \ p,. , 
 SORTS. Ivy leaved, white, I 
 
 Apple scented, Lemon scented, 
 
 Bicolor, Nutmeg scented, 
 
 Blanfordianum, Rose scented, &c. 
 
 Comptonianum, 
 
 There are several others very recently introduced, which 
 have not bloomed so as to allow us to judge of their merits; 
 but their foreign characters are highly flattering. The re- 
 potting of the geranium tribe should be done as early in the 
 month as possible, or even about the end of last month would 
 be advisable in some seasons. (Soil No. 12, with a little 
 more manure.) 
 
 Fhormium fenax, New Zealand flax lily, the only species ; 
 foliage resembling an Iris, and very thready. In New Zea- 
 land and Norfolk Island the natives manufacture from this 
 plant a kind of stuff like coarse linen, cordage, &c. ; the plant 
 is very hardy, and we would be nowise surprised to see it stand 
 the severity of our winters. It bears exposure to the open 
 air in Europe in the fifty-sixth degree of north latitude. The 
 flowers are said to be yellow and lily -like ; of the easiest cul- 
 ture. (Soil No. 7.) 
 
 Fhylicas, above twenty-five species. Several of them are 
 very pretty-growing evergreen shrubs, and of easy culture. 
 P. horizontdlis, P. squarrdsa, P. imhricdta, P. myrtifblia , P. 
 callosa, P. bicolor, and P. ericoides, are all neat-growing; 
 flowers small white, in heads : drain the pots well, and keep 
 them in an airy situation. The foliage of several -of the 
 species is downy. (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Phasedhis car acedia, or snail flower, is a very curious 
 blooming plant, with flowers of a greenish yellow, all spirally 
 twisted, in great profusion when the plant is well grown. 
 (Soil No. 12.) 
 
 Phoenix dactyl'ifera, common date palm ; a plant that 
 attains a large size and of rather a rugged appearance; its 
 fruit is the common well-known date. (Soil No. 12.) 
 
 PimUeas, about fourteen species. Most of them are highly 
 esteemed, and are not often seen in our collections. P. 
 decussdta is the finest of the genus, both in foliage and 
 flowers, which are red, and in large terminal clusters. P. his- 
 pida, P. rosea, P. linifolia, P. spicdta, ani P. spectabiliSf ar« 
 
250 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. [^March. 
 
 all fine species. The latter has very beautiful lanceolate 
 foliage and of an elegant habit. They should be well drained. 
 They are very small evergreen shrubs, with white, red, or pink 
 flowers. (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Pistdcias, seven species of trees, principally of the south 
 of Europe. There is nothing particular in their appearance, 
 except their productions in their native countiy. P. terebin- 
 ihus is deciduous, and produces the Cyprus turpentine. P. 
 lentiscus is the true mastich tree, which is obtained by cutting 
 transverse incisions in the bark. P. vera, P. reticulata are 
 good species ; leaves pinnated ; leaflets ovate, lanceolate j 
 easily cultivated. (Soil No. 2.) 
 
 Pitiosjiorums, about nine species, with handsome foliage, 
 and small white flowers in clusters, which are fragrant. P. 
 tohira is a native of China, and nearly hardy ; leaves lucid, 
 obovate, obtuse, and smooth ; there is a beautiful variegated 
 variety of it. P. unduldtum, P. coridceum, P. revolatum, 
 P. fulvum, and P. ferrugineum are very ornamental ever- 
 greens, and will grow with the most simple treatment. (Soil 
 No. 13.) 
 
 Plati/loh turns, Flat Pea, four species of fine free-flowering 
 plants, flowers leguminose ; colour yellow. P. formosum, P. 
 ovdtum and P. trianguldre are the best j the foliage of the 
 former two is cordate ovate 3 the latter hastate, with spiny 
 angles. (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Plumhayos, Lead-wort. The two most beautiful species 
 for green-house culture are P. capcnsis, of a beautiful light 
 blue, flowering in spikes from June to December; foliage pale 
 green, oblong, entire, and glaucous — P. Larpanta, Lady 
 Larpant's Leadwort, is of a very dwarf habit, small dark 
 greenish-brown foliage, crowned with flowers of the finest 
 azure blue, and is tolerably hardy in the open ground ; in 
 fact, they are both perfectly hardy in the Southern States. 
 (Soil No. 1.) 
 
 Pudalijrias, about fourteen species of pretty Cape shrubs; 
 foliage oblong, obovate, and silky-like; the flowers legumi- 
 nose; colour blue or pink. P. sericca, P. styraclfblia, P. 
 corilscans, P. aryentea, P. liparioides, and P. subijlora, are 
 the finest and most distinct species, and flower abundantly. 
 (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Prdteas, about forty- four species. The foliage of this 
 genus is very diversified • flowers very large, terminal ; stamens 
 
March.'} green-house — repotting. 251 
 
 protected by an involucrum, mauy-leaved and imbricated ; 
 which is very persistent. f*. cynaroides has the hirgest 
 flower, which is purple, green, and red. P. speciosa, P. um- 
 honalis, once P. longifolia, P. melaleuca, P. grandijlbra, P. 
 coccinea, P. cenocdrpa, P. pal/ens, P. formbsa, P. magnijica, 
 P. specibsa rubra, and P. ntedifcra, will aflPord a very good 
 v'^ariety. It is almost impossible to describe their true colour, 
 it being so various; red, white, straw, brown, green, and pur- 
 ple, are most predominant, and frequently to be seen in the 
 same flower. The plants must be well drained; and during 
 warm weather be careful that they are not neglected in water, 
 for if they are suff"€red to droop, they seldom recover. For 
 this reason the pots ought not to stand in the strong sun ; 
 the plants can bear it, but to the roots it is injurious. (Soil 
 No. 9.) 
 
 Pultnceas, about forty species, pretty little dwarf-growing 
 shrubs of New South Wales ; flowers, small, leguminose, all 
 yellow with a little red outside of the petals. P. suhumhel- 
 Idfa, P. villosa, P. ohcordata, P. argentea, P. plumbsa, P. 
 flexilis, shining-leaved, fragrant; P. Candida, and P. stricta, 
 are all fine species, and esteemed in collections. The leaves 
 are all small ; they require an airy exposure, and the pots 
 drained. (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Phodochiton volubile, or Lophorspermum rhodocliiton : this 
 is a very fine climbing plant, with large tubular dark brown 
 flowers, blooming from July to October; it is of rapid growth, 
 and is an excellent plant for the flower-garden. The plant 
 must have frequent repotting to make it grow rapidly, for the 
 finer it grows the more profusely it flowers. (Soil No. 12.) 
 
 Rhododendrons (Rose tree), a magnificent genus, and con- 
 tains some of the most superb and gigantic plants that adorn 
 the green-house. At present the most admired is R. arhbreum, 
 ■with its varieties. It has deep crimson flowers, with dark 
 spots and flakes campanulated, and in large clusters; leaves 
 lanceolate, acute, rough and silvery beneath. R. arhbreum 
 album is very rare. R. arhbreum sup)erhum, flowers same 
 shape as arhbreum, colour bright rosy scarlet; foliage one- 
 third larger, but not silvery beneath ; grows freely, and gene- 
 rally thought the finest variety. R. arhbrea alf a- Clarence is 
 also very superb. R. arhbrea Russelidnum, pictum, vcmistum, 
 guttdtum, tigrinum, noblednum, grandijldrum, spectdhile, are 
 all very distinct ; but there are SO many other varieties froo» 
 
252 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING [J/(/?rA 
 
 seed that they will soon be so much amalgamated that the 
 named sorts will not be distinguished. A green-house with- 
 out some of the choice varieties of this plant is deficient of a 
 flower whose beauty and grandeur are beyond the highest 
 imagination. It is a native of Nepaul, in India, and when 
 found by Dr. Wallach, awakened the ambition of every culti- 
 vator and connoisseur in Europe.* There are several other 
 species lately brought from that country, which are highly 
 valued: the species are i?. campanulatum, R. anthopoyon, 
 and R. cinnamomum. They are rarely seen in our collections. 
 There is also another new addition to this already majestic 
 family, discovered by Doctor Hooker, in the Himalaya Moun- 
 tains, which for gorgeous splendour is supposed will surpass 
 all their predecessors ; the foliage of many of them are cer- 
 tainly distinct and unique in all its parts. We have also a 
 brilliant yellow species, R. javanicum, from Japan ; it is 
 novel and beautiful, blooming when the plants are only about 
 a foot high — an indispensable sort. The pots should be well 
 drained, and if they are large, put several pieces of sandy 
 stone or potshreds around the side, for the fine fibres delight 
 to twine about such, being mountainous plants. When grow- 
 ing, give copious waterings at the root. For young plants, 
 soil No. 6. And for blooming plants use one portion of leaf 
 mould. 
 
 Roellas, pretty leafy shrubs, with blue terminal funnel- 
 shaped flowers, lip-spreading; R. cilidta, R. spicdta, and R. 
 pechmculdta are the finest of the genus. The pots must be 
 well drained, and care taken that they are not over-watered. 
 (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Salvia (Sage) is an extensive genus of soft-wooded, shrub 
 by, or herbaceous plants ; very few of them do well in the 
 green-house, and many of them are very trifling, having no 
 other attraction than the flower ; and those of the tender 
 species, when compared with S. /ulgens, crimson, S. sjyien- 
 dens, scarlet, S. angustifolia, pale blue, S. patens, dark blue, 
 S. involibcrata, pink (which in artificial climates constitute 
 the standard of the genus), are not worth cultivation. The 
 best method to adopt with the summer flowering kinds is to 
 plant them in the garden in May : they will grow strong and 
 
 * Mr. Hogg, the eminent horticulturist of New York, raised ths 
 first plant of arboreum from seed in England. 
 
March.'\ GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 253 
 
 flower abundantly, and in the fall they can be lifted and pre- 
 served during winter in pots. They neither grow nor flower 
 so well as when planted out, and even a slip planted in the 
 ground in moist weather will root in a few days, grow, and 
 flower in a few weeks. S. spUndens is the best to select for 
 the purpose. All will grow easily with encouragement. (Soil 
 No. 12.) 
 
 Scbttias, three species of valuable plants ; S. dentdta, with 
 rosy leguminose blossoms; leaves opposite, ovate, acuminate, 
 serrate; S. angustlfolia, has brown flowers; S. trapezifdr- 
 mus, leaves ovate, acute, serrulate. We do not know the 
 colour of its flowers ; the pots must be well drained, and the 
 plants kept in the warmest part of the green-house, and near 
 the light. (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Senecios. Some species of this genus are pestiferous weeds 
 all over thj world. They are even found near the limits of 
 perpetual snow, where neither tree nor shrub is able to rear its 
 head, and yet there are a few species that are neat little 
 plants, and are worthy of a situation, namely, S. grandljld- 
 rus, S. veniistus, and *S^. cinerdscens, with the double white, 
 purple, and red variety of S. elegans. The last three varie- 
 ties are free flowering, but if allowed to grow several years, 
 they become unsightly. Being very easily propagated, a few 
 cuttings of them should be put in in September, and in two 
 weeks they will strike root, when the}'^ may be put in pots to 
 keep through the winter, and then planted in the garden, con- 
 tinuing to renew them. The other mentioned species should 
 be frequently done the same way. Do not keep them damp 
 during winter, or they will rot ofi". Give them an airy expo- 
 sure. (Soil No. 12.) 
 
 Sdllya heterophylla : a good climbing plant, with bright 
 blue clusters of drooping flowers ; it is a native of New Hol- 
 land, and will prove a hardy plant south of latitude 36°. 
 (Soil No. 4.) 
 
 Sparrmdnnias are strong-growing green-house shrubs. S. 
 Africdna is a plant very common in our collections, with 
 large three-lobed cordate leaves, hairs on both sides; flowers 
 from March to July. S. rugdsa. The leaves are rugged; 
 flowers of both are white, in a kind of corymb, supported by 
 a long footstalk ; buds drooping, flowers erect. There is a 
 plant known in our collections as the free flowering Sparr- 
 mdnnia (which is Entelia arborSscens), and is easily distin- 
 22 
 
254 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. iMarch 
 
 guished from Sparrmdnnia by the leaves being cordate, acu- 
 minatG, and otherwise, by all its fihTtnents being fertile, and 
 the flowers more branching, and blooming from November to 
 June, profusely; very easily cultivated, and desirable. (Soil 
 No. 12.) 
 
 Sphixrolbhiums, only two species of leafless plants, with 
 yellow and red leguminose flowers, which proceed from the 
 young shoots. S. vimineum and S- medium. They flower 
 freely, and are easily cultivated. The old wood should be 
 frequently cut out where it is practicable. Drain the pots. 
 (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Sprcngelia incarndta, the only species, a very pretty plant, 
 allied to Epdcris; foliage acuminate, embracing the stem; 
 flowers small, pink, bearded, and in close spikes ; grows freely. 
 The pots must be well drained, and the plants, when dormant, 
 watered sparingly; for if they get sodden about the roots, 
 they very seldom recover. (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Strelitzia, or queen plant : a genus of fine plants belonging 
 to the natural order of Musacea. S. reyina, &. ovdta, and 
 S. iLumilis are the most free and beautiful flowering species, 
 and are very similar, except in habit. The flower-stalk is 
 from one to two feet long, producing about five flowers of a 
 bright yellow, having a large blue stigma, which forms a dis- 
 tinct contrast. >S'. juncea and S. parvijldra are also desirable 
 species, but are more rare than the former, which ought to be 
 in every green-house. (Soil No. 19.) 
 
 Streptocarpus rhexii, a free-blooming dwarf plant, of easy 
 culture in soil No. -t. 
 
 Styphelias, seven species of very showy flowers, with mu- 
 cronate leaves; corolla in long tubular form, having several 
 bundles of hairs in it ; segments reflex and bearded. >S'. 
 tubijiora, crimson ; *S'. trijldra, crimson and green ; *S'. adscen- 
 dens, and S. longijibra, are beautiful species. They grow 
 freely, and should be well drained, as too much water is very 
 hurtful to them. In summer, they ought not to be much ex- 
 posed to the hot sun, or the foliage will become brown. (Soil 
 No. 6.) 
 
 Sutherland ia frutescens, very similar to Swainsbnia; 
 flowers fine scarlet. (Soil No. 2.) 
 
 Sivainsbnias, four species of free-flowering, soft-wooded 
 shrubs, natives of New South Wales. S. galegifblia, S. 
 coroni/lcf/blia, and S. astragalifoUa, are red, purple, and 
 
31arch.'] green-house — repotting. 255 
 
 white; legumlnose flowers in spikes from the axils, are of 
 easy culture and deserving of a situation ; the foliage is pin- 
 nate; leaves ovate, acute. (Soil No. 2.) 
 
 Tecdma is a genus of beautiful flowering plants, separated 
 from Bignbnia. They are of easy culture and desirable in 
 all collections. T. capensis has bright orange flowers in large 
 clusters, and very profuse on large plants. T. austrdlis, 
 known as Bignbnia pandora, has white and pink flowers in 
 great profusion. T. jasmindichs is quite a new plant, produc- 
 ing very large clusters of white flowers, with a bright pink 
 centre ; it is a charming plant for climbing, and the foliage is 
 of a very agreeable shining green. The plants require en- 
 couragement. (Soil No. 10.) 
 
 Testudindria, Elephant's foot, or Hottentot's bread, two 
 species remarkable for their appearance. The root or bulb, 
 if it may be so called, is of a conical shape, and divided into 
 transverse sections. Those of one foot diameter are computed 
 to be one hundred and fifty years of age. It is a climbing 
 herbaceous plant, with entire reniform leaves of no beauty ; 
 flowers small; colour green. The pots must be well drained, 
 for when the plant is inactive, it is in danger of suffering 
 from moisture, and ought not to get any water. T. elephdn- 
 tipes and T. montana are the species, natives of the Cape of 
 Grood Hope, and require the warmest part of the house. (Soil 
 No. 10.) 
 
 Thea : a genus celebrated over the known world as furnish- 
 ing the domestic drug called Tea. T. viridis, and T. hohea 
 are said to be the species which supply the tea. Some have 
 asserted that there is only one shrub used, but by examina- 
 tion it may be easily perceived that there are leaves of various 
 shape and texture, some of them similar to Camellia sesanqua. 
 Dr. Abel gives an explicit detail of the growing and manu- 
 facturing process of tea, from which, in compliment to our 
 fair patrons, we give a few extracts : 
 
 " The tea districts of China extend from the twenty-seventh 
 to the thirty-Hrst degree of north latitude. It seems to suc- 
 ceed best on the sides of mountains. The soil from whfch I 
 collected the best specimens consisted chiefly of sandstono- 
 schistus, or granite. The plants are raised from seeds sown 
 where they are to remain. Three or more are dropped into 
 a hole four or five inches deep ; these come up without farther 
 trouble, and require li'-^le culture, except that of removing 
 
256 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTriNQ. l^Iarch. 
 
 weeds, till the plants are three years old. The more careful 
 stir the soil, aud some manure it, but the hitter practice is 
 seldom adopted. The third year the leaves are gathered, at 
 three successive gatherings, in February, April, and June, 
 and so on until the bushes become stunted or slow in their 
 growth, which generally happens in from six to ten years. 
 They are then cut in to encourage the production of fresh 
 roots. 
 
 " The gathering of the leaves is performed with care and 
 selection. The leaves are plucked off one bj' one; at the first 
 gathering only the unexpanded and tender are taken ; at the 
 second those that are of full growth ; and at the third the 
 coarsest. The first forms, what is called in Europe, imperial 
 tea ; but, as to the other names by which tea is known, the 
 Chinese know nothing; aud the compounds and names are 
 supposed to be made and given by the merchants at Canton, 
 who, from the great number of varieties brought to them, have 
 an ample opportunity of doing so. Formerly it was thought 
 that green tea was gathered exclusively from T. viridis ; but 
 that how is doubtful, though it is certain that there is what 
 is called the green tea district and black tea district ; and the 
 varieties grown in the one district differ from those of the 
 other. I was told by competent persons that either of the 
 two plants will afford the black or green tea of the shops, but 
 that the broad thin-leaved plant (7*. viridis) is preferred for 
 making the green tea. 
 
 " The tea leaves being gathered, are cured in houses which 
 contain from five to twenty small furnaces, about three feet 
 high each, having at top a large flat iron pan. There is also 
 a long low table covered with mats, on which the leaves are 
 laid, and rolled by workmen, who sit around it : the iron pan 
 being heated to a certain degree, by a little fire made in the 
 furnace underneath, a few pounds of the fresh-gathered leaves 
 are put upon the pan; the fresh and juicy leaves crack when 
 they touch the pan, and it is the business of the operator to 
 shift them as quickly as possible, with his bare hands, till 
 they cannot be easily endured. At this instant he takes off 
 the leaves with a kind of shovel resembling a fan, and pours 
 them on the mats before the rollers, who, taking small quan- 
 tities at a time, roll them in the palms of their hands in one 
 direction, while others are fanning them, that they may cool 
 the more speedily, and retain their curl the longer. This pru- 
 
March.'] GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 257 
 
 C0S3 ia repeated two or three times, or oftener, before the tea 
 is put into the stores, in order that all the moisture of the 
 leaves may be thoroughly dissipated, and their curl more com- 
 pletely preserved. On every repetition the pan is less heated, 
 and the operation performed more closely and cautiously. 
 The tea is then separated into the different kinds, and depo- 
 sited in the store for domestic use or exportation. 
 
 " The different sorts of black and green arise not merely 
 from soil, situation, or the age of the leaf; b(ut after winnow- 
 ing the tea, the leaves are taken up in succession as they fall ; 
 those nearest the machine, being the heaviest, are the gun- 
 powder tea ; the light dust the worst, being chiefly used by 
 the lower classes. That which is brought down to Canton then 
 undergoes a second roasting, winnowing, packing, &c., and 
 many hundred women are employed for these purposes." 
 
 Kaempfer asserts that a species of Camellia as well as Olea 
 Frdgrans is used to give it a high flavour. 
 
 Tacsbnia, a genus of plants much resembling Passifloras, 
 both in flower and habits. T. pinnatistipulata and T. mollis, 
 when planted into the ground and trained up the rafters of 
 the green-house, make a pretty appearance with their profu- 
 sion of rosy blush-coloured flowers. (Soil No. 13.) 
 
 Tropcvdlum, a genus of generally delicate-growing plants, 
 principally from South America. They require nicety of 
 treatment to bloom them well, unless a large bulb can be 
 procured, when it may be planted in a seven-inch pot, and 
 will then flower without farther care by training their delicate 
 shoots on a wire trellis, or small twigs of branches stuck in 
 the pots. T. fricolorum, T. tricolorum sujjerhum, and T. 
 'pentaphijlhim have beautiful scarlet flowers marked with yel- 
 low and black, and are superb and lovely when in bloom. T. 
 hracliyseras has yellow flowers. (Soil No. 10.) 
 
 Verbena. The beauty of the green-house in spring and 
 the flower-garden in summer is greatly augmented by the 
 late introduction of this lovely family of perpetual flowering 
 plants. There are among them every shade of colour, from 
 the richest scarlet to the purest white, and in addition to the 
 beaut}- and profusion of their flowers, several of them are ex- 
 quisitely scented. V. chamcedry folia, or melindres, was the 
 first scarlet species intrDduced, and it is yet pretty. 
 22* 
 
258 
 
 GREEN -HOUSE — REPOTTING. 
 
 iMarch. 
 
 WHITES. 
 
 Americana, 
 White Perfection. 
 
 RED. 
 
 St. Marguirette, 
 Gen. Courtigies. 
 
 BLUSH WHITE, 
 
 With Red or Rose Eye. 
 
 Benoist de Lisle. 
 
 Emma, 
 
 Eva, 
 
 Mrs. W. W. Keen, 
 
 Pauline, 
 
 Reine d« Jour. 
 
 ROSE. 
 
 Etiole de Venus, 
 Gen. Changarnier, 
 Republic, 
 Magnificent. 
 
 Mottled and Striped. 
 Iphogene, 
 Eclipse, 
 La Gracious. 
 
 SCARLET CRIMSON. 
 
 Defiance, 
 Chauverii, 
 Montonii, 
 Phenomenon. 
 
 BLUE. 
 
 Andrew, 
 Heroine, 
 Richard Fetters. 
 
 PURPLE. 
 
 Melvina, 
 
 Model of Perfection. 
 
 LILAC. 
 
 Perfection, 
 Fanny. 
 
 These are principally new varieties of perfect formation ; 
 the flowers in some are as large as a quarter-dollar, far out- 
 vying those cultivated a few years ago. It is only fifteen 
 years since I grew the first white, pink, and crimson verbena, 
 from seed received from Buenos Ayres. They created a very 
 great excitement in the floral world, both in this country and 
 Europe. Now there are thousands produced from seed an- 
 nually. In England, they bear the titled names of Ladies,, 
 Marquesses and Queens, commanding a very high price ; but 
 with all their titles, none of them excel a few of those named 
 above. They require very little water during winter, and 
 should be kept on a dry airy shelf till February, when the 
 pots may be enlarged, except those intended for the garden, 
 which can be planted out about the middle of April. Cut- 
 tings of the young shoota, placed in sandy soil and covered 
 
March.'} green-house — repotting. 259 
 
 ■with a glass, ■will root in a few ■weeks. The ■whole fiimily 
 should be iudustriously collected and cultivated; for truly we 
 are not acquainted with a tribe of plants that ■will give as much 
 satisfaction with as little cost and trouble : they naturally 
 grow on hills and elevated plains, so that they must not be 
 kept wet. (Soil No. 9.) 
 
 Veronica, an extensive genus of plants that are cultivated 
 largely as ornaments for the flower-garden. Within these 
 few years some very beautiful species have been discovered in 
 New Zealand. Among them is V. speciosa, a picture of a 
 plant with foliage equal to a Camellia, producing spikes about 
 three inches long, of bright purple flowers, fading to a pale 
 blush. V. Liiidleyana, with ovate lanceolate leaves, and 
 spikes of delicate blush flowers; blooming in winter. V. 
 Andersonii, spikes of flowers opening blue, and changing to 
 white, in flower from August to Christmas. They are of the 
 simplest culture — growing freely and symmetrically in soil 
 No. 9. 
 
 Viminaria denuddta, the only species. This plant is re- 
 markable for its twiggy appearance, but it has no foliage, ex- 
 cept when growing from seed. It has at the extremity of the 
 twigs or shoots an ovate, lanceolate leaf, disappearing when 
 the plant grows old ; the flowers are small, yellow, coming out 
 of the young shoots, to the astonishment of the beholder. It 
 grows freely. (Soil No. 6.) 
 
 Vibuniuvis. A few of these are very ornamental evergreen 
 shrubs, and almost hardy. V. tlnus is the well-known Lau- 
 restine (or what is commonly called Laurestinus), is of the 
 easiest culture; flowers small, white, and in large flattened 
 panicles; blooming from February to May, and universally 
 esteemed. It will stand the winter by a little protection, but 
 the flower-buds being formed in the fall, the intense frost 
 destroys them ; consequently, it will not flower finely, except 
 it be protected from severe frost. V. liicidum is a good 
 species, and superior in flower and foliage to the former, but 
 does not flower so freely when the plants are small. When 
 they grow large, they flower profusely. There is a desirable 
 variegated variety. V. odoratissimum has smooth, evergreen, 
 oblong elliptic, distinctly toothed leaves, and frequently a stripe 
 in them, is sweet-scented, but not a free-flowerer. V. hirsiitum 
 has flowers similar to the above; foliage ovate, with rough 
 brown hairs on both sides, and 7ery characteristic. V. siric- 
 
260 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. \_March 
 
 turn variegdtum is a very fine variety, and upright growing. 
 These plants are all very desirable, blooming early in spring, 
 and continuing for several months; all easily cultivated. 
 (Soil No. 17) 
 
 Westringias, a genus of four species, very like the common 
 Ro&evixary. W. 7-o?,marinifbrmis, leaves lanceolate, and sil- 
 very beneath. W. lomjifblia is similar; both have small 
 silvery-white flowers, and are easily cultivated. (Soil No. 2.) 
 
 WiUinias, four species. W. cbryvihbsa is a plant that has 
 stood in high estimation ever since it was known, l?ut, unfor- 
 tunately, there is a very inferior plant. Aristea cyanea got 
 into our collections under that name. The panicles of W. 
 corymhbsa are quite smooth; those of Aristea are hairy, which 
 is itself sufficient to detect them ; but otherwise the appear- 
 ance of W. corymhbsa is much stronger and more erect grow- 
 ing, not inclining to push at the roots so much as Aristea. 
 The foliage is lanceolate and amplesicaule, the leaves having 
 much the nature and appearance of Iris. The plant is of 
 easy culture, and blooms from July to November; colour fine 
 blue. W. ramosa is a very fine species, similar to the above; 
 flowers yellow and blue; plant branching. (Soil No. 8.) 
 
 Yucca aloefolia, and its beautiful variety varicgata, are de- 
 sirable plants. They do not bloom till they have grown to 
 considerable size ; but still they make a decided contrast 
 among other plants ; the flowers are white and produced ou 
 terminal spikes. (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 Zdmias, about twenty species, eight of which belong to this 
 compartment. The foliage is greatly admired, and is in large 
 fronds, with oblique, lanceolate leaflets. Several of them 
 glauceous. They bear heads of flowers of a brown colour in 
 the centre of the plants, very like large pine cones. Z. hbr- 
 rida, the finest; Z. pungens, Z. spiralis, and Z. lafi/blia, are 
 the most conspicuous. They must be kept in the warmest 
 part of the green-house ; and give them large well-drained 
 pots, watering sparingly during winter. They are imported 
 from the Gape of Good Hope. (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 All the plants herein named requiring to be drained, in pre- 
 paring the pots, place first a piece of broken pot, oyster- 
 shell, or any similar substitute, with the convex side on the 
 hole of the pot, and then put in a few, or a handful (accord- 
 ing to the size of the pot) of shivers of broken pots, or 
 round gravel about the size of garden beans. Those that 
 
March.2 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 261 
 
 we have mentioned in this Repotting, as to be done in this 
 or beginning of next month, is not intecrded to apply to 
 plants in general, large and small, but to those that are 
 young, and require encouragement, or to those that were not 
 shifted last autumn. The roots must not be disturbed, but 
 the ball turned out entire ; and put as much earth as will 
 raise the ball within about half an inch of the rim of the pot. 
 Press the earth down around it with a thin narrow piece of 
 wood, called a potting stick, frequently shaking it that no 
 vacancy may be left. If the roots are rotten, or otherwise 
 injured, take all such off. If this be the case, the plant will 
 be sickly. Give it a new pot of a smaller size, administering 
 water moderately until there are visible signs of fresh growth. 
 The plants must not be disturbed while flowering; let the re- 
 potting be done afterward. Plants are, at certain stages, if in 
 good health, in a state that no one can err in shifting them 
 when desirous to hasten their growth. Those plants that 
 make two or more growths during the summer may be repotted 
 in the interim of any of these growths, and all others just be- 
 fore they begin to push in the spring; that is, when the wood 
 buds are perceptibly swelled. Never saturate with water 
 fresh-potted plants. There are many kinds that, without in- 
 jury, can be repotted when growing. When done potting, tie 
 all up neatly with stakes rather higher than the plant, that the 
 new shoots may be tied thereto during the summer, to prevent 
 them from being destroyed by the wind. There may be many 
 that do not require repotting, but would be benefited by a 
 top-dressing. This should be done by probing off all the sur- 
 face earth down to the roots, replacing it with fresh compost, 
 suitable to the nature of the plant. 
 
 When the above is done, arrange all the plants in proper 
 order, and syringe them clean ; but if there are any of the 
 green-fly, they must be fumigated previous to syringing. The 
 pavement of the house should be cleanly and neatly swept 
 every day, and washed at least once a week. Thus, every part 
 of the house will be in order before the hurry of the garden 
 oommences. 
 
262 GREEN-HOUSE — OF ENARCHING, ETC. iMurch. 
 
 OF ENARCHING OR GRAFTING BY APPROACH. 
 
 ■ In this method of grafting, the scion is not separated from 
 the parent plant until it is firmly united with the stock ; con- 
 sequently, they must stand contiguously. We intend the 
 following method to apply directly to Camellias, as they are 
 the principal plants in the green-house that are thus worked. 
 The criterion for the operation is about the first of March or 
 June. Place the stock contiguous to the plant where the 
 graft or enarch is to be taken from. If the branches, where 
 the intended union is to take place, do not grow at equal 
 heights, a slight stage may be erected to elevate the lower 
 pot. Take the branch that is to be enarched (the wood of 
 last year is the most proper), and bring it in contact with the 
 stock ; mark the parts where they are to unite, so as to form 
 a pointed arch. In that part of the branch which is to re.st 
 against the stock, pare off the bark and part of the wood to 
 about two or three inches in length, and in the side of the 
 stock which is to receive the graft do the same, that the in- 
 side rind of each may be exactly opposite, which is the first 
 part where a union will take place. Bind them firxuly and 
 neatly together with strands of Ilussia matting, and protect 
 the joint from the air by a coat of close composition ; clay of 
 the consistency of thick paint, turpentine, or wax, will equally 
 answer. Finish by fastening the grafted branch to the head 
 of the stock or a rod. Many practitioneis make a slit or 
 tongue into the enarch and stock, but we find it unnecerisary, 
 more tedious, and likewise more danger in breaking. Camel- 
 lias are also grafted and budded, buc theso two operations re- 
 quire great experience and continued attention, and seldom 
 prove so successful as enarchiiig. When they have perfectly 
 taken, which will be in from chree to four Konths, begin to 
 separate them by cutting the scion a little at three difi'erent 
 periods, about a week apart, separating it at the tnird time. 
 If the head is intended to be taken oif the stock, do it in like 
 manner. By the above me^ihod, many kinds caD be grown on 
 the same stock. The samo pian applies to all 6ferf;reens. 
 
Aj>ril'} GREEN-HOUSE — WATERING. 263 
 
 APRIL. 
 
 Regarding the shifting or repotting of plants, the direc- 
 tions given last month may be followed. If the plants that 
 require it are not shifted, get them done as soon as possible. 
 Those that were repotted last month will have taken fresh 
 root in the new soil, and the advantage will soon be per- 
 ceptible. In order to strengthen the plants, and keep them 
 from becoming drawn and spindly, admit large portions of 
 air every mild day. Indeed, there will be very few days 
 in this month that a little air may not be given, always 
 observing to divide the quantity regularly over the house, 
 in cool nights closing in time. About the end of the month 
 an abundance of air is indispensable, leaving the sashes and 
 doors open every mild night, that the plants may be inured 
 to the open exposure they will have in a few weeks. 
 
 watering. 
 
 As the season advances and vegetation increases, the 
 waterings will require to be more copious and more frequent. 
 Look over all plants minutely every day, and with judicious 
 care supply their wants. Those that are of a soft shrubby 
 nature, and in a free-growing state, will require a larger portion 
 at one time than those of a hard texture, which may only 
 want it every two or three days. The weather and situation, 
 in some instances, may require a modification of these direc- 
 tions. Plants in general will not suffer soon from being a 
 little dry as from being over- watered. The health and beauty 
 of the foliage of the plants may be much improved by syring- 
 ing them freely three evenings in the week, except in moist 
 weather, when it ought not to bo done. The ravages of many 
 insects also will be retarded, especially mildew and red spider, 
 which will be entirely destroyed. If the red spider is on any 
 of the plants particularly, take them aside evening and morn- 
 ing, and give them a good dashing with water through the 
 syringe. Where there is mildew, after syringing the plant, 
 dust it on the affected parts with flower of sulphur, and set 
 them for a few days where they will be sheltered from the 
 
264 GREEN-HOUSE — ORANGES, ETC. [^Api'il. 
 
 wind, after which wash off the sulphur. If the cure is not 
 complete renew the dose. Always sweep out and dry up 
 the water in the house when any is spilt. The succulent 
 plants will be in want of a little water about once a week, 
 but do not over-water them, as there is not heat enough to 
 absorb much moisture. If the soil is damp, it is quite suffi- 
 cient. 
 
 ORANGES, LEMONS, ETC., 
 
 Will, in many instances, about the end of this month, be 
 showing flowers or flower-buds. They must, under these 
 circumstances, have plenty of air to prevent them from fall- 
 ing off when entirely exposed. The reason that we see so 
 much fine blossom falling to the ground where the trees are 
 brought out of the house in May, is from the confinement 
 they have had. Where there is a convenience of giving air 
 from the back of the green-house, it should always be given 
 in mild days, especially in those houses that have a recess back 
 from the top of the sashes, for even if the sashes are let down 
 every day, still the house will not be properly ventilated. 
 Any plants that are sickly and intended to be planted in the 
 garden next month to renovate their growth, may be cut back 
 (if not already done) as far as is required to give the tree a 
 handsome form, taking care not to cut below the graft of 
 inoculation. Let the operation be done with a fine saw and 
 sharp knife, smoothing the amputations that are made by the 
 saw; and if they are large, put a little well-made clay over 
 the wound, to prevent the air from injuring it. Beeswax and 
 turpentine are preferable to clay, not being subject to crack or 
 fall off by the weather. 
 
 If there are any Lagerstroemias, Pomegranate, or Hy- 
 drangeas in the cellar, they should be brought out about the 
 first of the month, and planted in their respective situations. 
 Give the Hydrangea a very shady spot. It does not require 
 much sun, provided it has plenty of air, and do not plant it 
 into soil that has been lately manured. A large plant must 
 have great supplies of water in dry weather. If the plant is 
 very tbick, the oldest branches may be thinned out, but do not 
 cut out any of the young shoots, as they contain the embryo 
 of the flower. Lagerstroemias will flower abundantly without 
 
April.'] GREEN-IIOUSE— GERANIUMS. 265 
 
 pruning, but, to have fine large spikes of flowers, cut in the 
 wood of last year to about three eves from the wood of the 
 preceding year; by this they will be much finer. Pome- 
 granates will only require a little of the superfluous wood cut 
 out. Perhaps some of them may be desired to flower in pot 
 or tabs during summer; the balls will admit of being much 
 reduced, and by this a pot or tub very little larger will do 
 for them. Do not give much water until they begin to grow. 
 
 MYRTLES AND OLEANDERS. 
 
 If any of these have grown irregularly, and are not headed 
 down or otherwise pruned, as directed last month, it should 
 now be done. Oleanders are very subject to the white scaly 
 insect, and, before the heat of summer begins, they should 
 be completely cleansed. This insect is likewise found on 
 Myrtles, which are worse to clean, and ought to be minutely 
 examined twice every year. We have observed the red spider 
 on these shrubs, which makes the foliage brown and unsightly. 
 If it is detected in time, syringing is an efiectual remedy. 
 
 GERANIUMS. 
 
 These will now begin to flower, and the sun will greatly 
 deteriorate their rich colours where they are near the glass 
 with a southern aspect. The glass should be whitewashed 
 or covered with thin muslin, which will cast a light shade 
 over them, and prolong the duratiGa of the bloom; but if 
 they are above five feet from the glass, shading is not re- 
 quisite. The strong kinds will be growing very luxuriantly, 
 and require liberal supplies of water. When syringing, do 
 not sprinkle the flowers, as it would make the colours inter- 
 mingle with each other, and cause them to decay prema- 
 turely. If they have been properly attended to in that 
 respect, it may be dispensed with after they have come in 
 flower. 
 
 Cape Bulbs. Those that flowered late in autumn, as 
 eoon as the foliage begins ta (^c^y^ may be set aside, and 
 the water withheld lly d'egfees. When the foliage is en- 
 tirely gone, and the root^ jdryj,^; clear th§iri ftom-^e earth, 
 
 s 
 
 [ a Dep^t of JlgTi^^^' 
 
266 GREEN-HOUSE — INSECTS. [^Ipri7 
 
 and after lying exposed in the shade for a few days to dry, 
 pack them up in dry moss, with their respective names 
 attached, until August, when they may be again potted. 
 Treat those that are in flower the same as directed in last 
 month. 
 
 Dutch Roots. All the species and varieties of these that 
 have been kept in the green-house during the winter will now 
 be done flowering; the water should be withdrawn gradually 
 from them ; and then the pots turned on their sides to ripen 
 the bulbs. Or, a superior method is, where there is the con- 
 venience of a garden, to select a bed not much exposed. 
 Turn the balls out of the pots and plant them ; the roots will 
 ripen better this way than any other. Have them correctly 
 marked, that no error may take place. They can be lifted 
 ■with the other garden bulbs. 
 
 FLOWERING PLANTS 
 
 The best situation for most plants, while in flower, is 
 where they are shaded from the sun, and fully exposed to 
 the air. Primroses, both European and Chinese, flower 
 best, and the colours are finest, where the plants are in the 
 front of the house and entirely shaded. The Chinese Azaleas 
 and Rhododendrons require, while in flower, a similar situa- 
 tion. Have all the shoots tied naturally to neat rods, and 
 keep them clear from others by elevating them on empty 
 pots, or any other substitute. See that there are no insecta 
 upon them ; for they make a miserable contrast with flowers. 
 The Cdlla jEthiopica should stand in water when in bloom, 
 and even before flowering they will be much strengthened 
 by it. 
 
 INSECTS. 
 
 Insects will, on some plants, be very perplexing The 
 weather may admit of those that are infected to be taken 
 out of doors, and put into a frame in any way that is most 
 convenient. Fumigating them about fifteen minutes, if the 
 day is calm, will be suflicient ; but if windy, they will take 
 half an hour. When done, syringe them well, and put 
 them in their respective situations. By the above method, 
 
Ap^t] GREEN-HOUSE — ELc WERING STOCKS. 267 
 
 the house will not be made disagreeable with the fumes of 
 tobacco. 
 
 Tie up neatly all the climbing plants. Keep those that 
 are running up the rafters of the house close to the longi- 
 tudinal wires. As previously observed, running plants should 
 not be taken across the house, except in some instances where 
 it can be done over the pathway, otherwise it shades the house 
 too much. Clear oiF all decayed leaves and all contracted 
 foulness, that the house and plants may in this month have 
 an enlivening aspect, as it is undoubtedly one of the most in- 
 teresting seasons of the year in the green-house. 
 
 FLOWERING STOCKS. 
 
 Those that have been kept in the green-house, or in frames, 
 should be planted into beds or the borders, where they will 
 seed better than if kept in the pots. The method generally 
 adopted is, to select the plants that are intended for seed ; 
 plant the different kinds distinctly and separately ; then take 
 a few double-flowering plants of each kind, which plant round 
 their respective single varieties that are to be kept for seed. 
 Whenever any of the colours sport, that is, become spotted or 
 striped with other colours, plant such by themselves, tor they 
 will soon degenerate the whole, and ought never to be seen in 
 collections that have any pretensions to purity. Many have 
 been the plans recommended as the best for saving and grow- 
 ing from seed the double varieties of German stock. In every 
 method we have tried we have been successful and unsuccess- 
 ful; although we generally practise planting the double kinds 
 beside the single, where they are intended for seed. We have 
 no scientific reason for it; not seeing what influence these 
 monsters of flowers can have over a flower where the male 
 and female organs are perfect ; which in these are wanting. 
 Some say that the semi-double sorts are best; we have like- 
 wise found them both abortive and fruitful in the desired 
 results. 
 
268 GREEN-HOUSE — WATERING, ETC. '[May. 
 
 MAY. 
 
 About the first of the month all the small half-hardy plants 
 may be taken out of the green-house, and those that are left 
 will be more benefited by a freer circulation of air, which will 
 inure them to exposure. The Geraniums ought to stand per- 
 fectly clear of other plants, while in flower and growing, or 
 they will be much drawn and spindly. 
 
 WATERING. 
 
 We have advanced so much on this subject, another obser- 
 vation is not necessary, except as to succulents, which are 
 frequently over-watered about this period. Before they begin 
 to grow, once a week is sufficient. 
 
 OP BRINGING OUT THE GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 
 
 Those trees or plants of Orange, Lemon, Myrtle, Nerium, 
 &c., that were headed down with the intention of planting 
 them into the garden, to renovate their growth, should be 
 brought out and planted in the situations intended for them. 
 A good light rich soil w<ll do for either, and the balls of earth 
 might be a little reduced, that when they are lifted', tliey might 
 go into the same pot or tub, or perhaps a less one. This being 
 done, the plants, generally in a calm day from the 12th to the 
 18th of the month, should be taken out, carrying them directly 
 to a situation partially shaded from the ijun, and protected 
 from the wind. In regard to a situation best adapted for them 
 during summer, sec Hot-house this month, which will equally 
 apply to green-house plants. All Primroses and Polyanthus 
 delight in shade. The reason of so many plants of the D. 
 oddra^ djiog? is from the effects of the sun and water. We 
 keep them always in the green-house. 
 
 * Oa examining these plants, when the first appearance of decay 
 aflfected them, the decayed part was without exception at the surface 
 of the soil, which was completely mortified, while the top and roots 
 •were apparently fresh. This led us to conclude that the cause was 
 the effect of sun and water on the stem. We have since kept the 
 
Mai/.'\ GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING PLANTS. 269 
 
 The large trees may be fancifully set either in a spot for 
 the purpose, or through the garden. Put bricks or pieces of 
 wood under the tubs to prevent them from rotting, and strew 
 a little litter of any description over the surface of the soil to 
 prevent evaporation, or about one inch of well-decayed ma- 
 nure, which will, from the waterings, help to enrich the soil. 
 A liberal supply of water two or three times a week is suffi- 
 cient. A large tree will take at one time from two to four 
 gallons. We make this observation, for many trees evidently 
 have too limited a supply. Continue to syringe the plants 
 through the dry season every evening, or at least three times 
 per week. All the tall plants must be tied to some firm sup- 
 port, because the squalls of wind frequently overturn them, 
 and do much harm by breaking, &c. Keep those that are in 
 flower as much in shade as will preserve them from the direct 
 influence of the sun. 
 
 REPOTTING PLANTS. 
 
 After the following-mentioned plants, or any assimilated to 
 them are brought out of the house, and before they are put in 
 their respective stations, repot them where they are required 
 to grow well. — Aloes. These plants, so varied in character, 
 have been divided into several genera. These are, Gasteria, 
 Pachidindron, Riphidodendron, Howdrthia, and Apicra : of 
 these there are about two hundred species and varieties; to 
 enter into any specific detail would be beyond our limits, 
 especially with a tribe of plants that as yet have but a few 
 patrons. (Soil No. 10.) 
 
 Chamcerops. There are about seven species of these palms; 
 four of them belong to this department, and are the finest of 
 those that will keep in the green-house. They all have large 
 palmated fronds, and require large pots or tubs to make them 
 grow freely, and are tenacious of life if kept from frost. 
 
 Gardenia. This is an esteemed genus of plants, especially 
 for the double flowering varieties, which are highly odorife- 
 rous, and have an evergreen shining foliage. G. florida fiore 
 
 earth in a conical form round the stem, thereby throwing the water 
 to the sides of the pot, and kept them in ihe shade. Previously to 
 doing this, great numbers perished every year, and now no plants 
 thus treated die with us. 
 23* 
 
270 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING PLANTS. [MoT/. 
 
 pleno, Cape Jasmine, is a plant universally known in our col- 
 lections, and trees of it are frequently seen about seven feet 
 high, and five feet in diameter, blooming from June to Oc- 
 tober. G. rddicans, dwarf Cape Jasmine, G. hnijifblia, G. 
 multifibra, G. latifblia, G. Fortunii, and G. camdl'wflora, 
 are also in several collections, but not so generally known ; 
 the flowers are double, and all equally fragrant. We are in- 
 clined to think they arc only varieties of G. fiorida, of which 
 camelliajldra is one of the finest. Any of the above will keep 
 in the coldest part of the green-house, and even under the front 
 of the stage is a good situation for them, where the house is 
 otherwise crowded during winter. They must be sparingly 
 watered from November to March. Much water, while they 
 are dormant, gives the foliage a sickly tinge, a state in which 
 they are too frequently seen. G. rothmdnnia and G. Thun- 
 Mrgia are fine plants, but seldom flower; the flowers of the 
 former are spotted, and are most fragrant during night. (Soil 
 No. 10.) 
 
 Mesemhrydnihemum, a very extensive genus, containing 
 upward of four hundred and fifty species and varieties, with 
 few exceptions, natives of the Cape of Good Hope. They are 
 all singular, many of them beautiful, and some splendid; yet 
 they have never been popular plants in our collections. The 
 leaves are almost of every shape and form ; their habits vary 
 in appearance. Some of them are straggling, others are insig- 
 nificant, and a few grotesque. When they are well grown, 
 they flower in great profusion ; the colours are brilliant and 
 of every shade ; yellow and white are most prevalent. Each 
 species continues a considerable time in flower. The flowers 
 are either solitary, axillary, extra-axillary, but most frequently 
 terminal ; leaves mostly opposite, thick, or succulent, and of 
 various forms. They are sometimes kept in the hot-house, 
 but undoubtedly the green-house is the best situation for 
 them. They must not get water above twice a mouth during 
 winter, but while they are in flower, and through the summer 
 they require a more liberal supply, and they seldom need to 
 be repotted; once a ycir is sufficient. (Soil No. 18.) ^ 
 
June, July.'] green-house — observations. 271 
 
 CAMELLIAS. 
 
 These plants, when they are brought from the green-house 
 (which should be about the end of June), ought to be set in 
 a situation by themselves, that they may be the more strictly 
 attended to in watering and syringing. An airy situation, 
 where the sun has little effect upon them, is the best. They 
 should be syringed every evening when thei'e has been no rain 
 through the day. After heavy rains examine the pots, and 
 where water is found, turn the plant on its side for a few 
 hours to let the water pass off, and then examine the draining 
 in the bottom of the pots, which must be defective. 
 
 CAPE BULBS. 
 
 As soon as these are done flowering, and the foliage begins 
 to decay, cease watering, and turn the pots on their sides, 
 until the soil is perfectly dry ; then take out the bulbs, and 
 preserve them dry until the time of planting, which will be 
 about the end of August or first of September. 
 
 JUNE AND JULY. 
 
 The plants being out of the house, there need be little 
 added under this head. Their treatment is in the general, 
 and the required attention is in giving water according to 
 their different constitutions and habits. Where there is no 
 rain nor river water, it should stand at least one day in butts 
 or cisterns, to take the chilly air from it, and become softened 
 by the surrounding atmosphere. This is more essential to 
 the health of the plants than is generally supposed. The 
 small plants in dry weather will need water evening and 
 morning. Continue regular syringings as directed last month. 
 There are frequently rains continuing for several days, whicn 
 will materially injure many plants if they are not turned on 
 their sides, or defended by sash or shutters, until the rain i> 
 
'272 GREEN-HOUSE — GERANIUMS [August. 
 
 over, especially small plants. The syringicgs should never be 
 done till after the waterings at the roots, and they should 
 never be more seldom than every alternate evening. Turn 
 all the plants frequently, to prevent them from being drawn 
 to one side by the sun or light. Cai-efully look over them at 
 these turnings to detect any insects; and observe that the 
 tuberous-rooted or deciduous geraniums, such as Ardens, 
 Bicolor, Comptdnia, Echindtum, Tristum, &c., are not getting 
 too much water, they being now dormant. 
 
 AUGUST. 
 
 Any of the Myrtles, Oranges, Lemons, Oleanders, &c., 
 that were headed down in April or May, will be pushing many 
 young shoots. The plant must be carefully examined, to 
 observe which of the shoots ought to be left to form the tree. 
 
 Having determined on this, cut out all the others close to 
 the stem with a small sharp knife; and if the remaining 
 shoots are above one foot long, pinch off the tops to make 
 them branch out. 
 
 The trees that were entirely headed down, should not have 
 above sis shoots left, which will, by being topped, make a 
 sufficient quantity to form the bush or tree. 
 
 GERANIUMS. 
 
 These plants, about the first of the month, require a com- 
 plete dressing. In the first place collect them all together, 
 and, with a sharp knife, cut off the wood of this year to 
 within a few eyes of the wood of last year. Citrioddrum 
 and its varieties do not need pruning. The plants grown 
 from cuttings during the season that have flowered, cut them 
 to about three inches from the pot. This being done, have 
 the earth all prepared, and potshreds or fine gravel at hand, 
 for draining the delicate kinds. Choose a cloudy day for 
 the operation, and turn the plants progressively out of the 
 pots they are in, reducing the balls of earth so that the same 
 
Aur/iist.'] GREEN-HOUSE ORANGES, ETC. 273 
 
 pots may co itain them again, and allow from half an inch to 
 two inches, according to the size of the pot, of fresh soil 
 around the ball, carefully pressing it with the potting-stick. 
 Finish by levelling all neatly with the hand. Give very gentle 
 waterings from a pot with a rose mouth, for a few weeks, 
 until they have begun to grow. The tuberous-rooted and 
 deciduous species must be very moderately supplied. Be 
 careful, when watering, that the new soil does not become 
 saturated with water, for, though allowed to dry again, it will 
 not be so pure. When they grow afresh, expose them fully 
 to the sun, turn them regularly every two weeks, to prevent 
 them growing to one side. 
 
 ORANGES, LEMONS, ETC. 
 
 As it is frequently very inconvenient to shift, these trees 
 into larger tubs in the months of March and April, this month 
 is a period that is suitable, both from the growth of the trees 
 and their being in the open air. It would be improper to 
 state the day or the week, that depending entirely on the 
 season. The criterion is easily observed, which is when the 
 first growth is over, these trees making another growth in 
 autumn. When they are large, they recjuire great exertion, 
 and are frequently attended with inconvenience to get them 
 shifted. Where there is a quantity of them, the best plan 
 that we have tried or seen adopted is as follows : Have a 
 strong double and a single block trimmed with a sufficiency 
 of rope ; make it fast to the limb of a large tree, or anything 
 that projects and will bear the weight, and as high as will 
 admit of the. plant being raised a few feet under it. Take a 
 soft bandage and put around the stem, to prevent the bark 
 from being bruised; make a rope fast to it, in which hook the 
 single block. Raise the plant the height of the tub, put a 
 spar across the tub, and strike on the spar with a mallet, 
 which will separate the tub from the ball. Then with a 
 strong pointed stick probe a little of the earth from among 
 the roots, observing to cut away any that are affected by dry 
 rot, damp, or mildew, with any very matted roots. Having 
 all dressed, place a potshreds over the hole or holes in the 
 bottom of the tub ; measure exactly the depth of the ball that 
 remains around the plaiit, and fill up with earth, pressing it 
 
274 GREEN HOUSE — OF PRUNING, ETC. lAugusf. 
 
 •well with the hand, until it will hold the ball one inch under 
 the edge of the tub. If there is from two to four inches of 
 earth under it, it is quite enough. Fill all around the ball, 
 and press it down with a stick, finishing neatly off with the 
 hand. Observe that the stem of the tree is exactly in the 
 centre. This being done, carry the tree to where it is in- 
 tended to stand, and give it water with a rose on the pot. 
 The earth will subside about two inches, thus leaving three 
 inches, which will, at any time, hold enough of water for the 
 tree. Trees thus treated will not require to be shifted again 
 within four or five years, having in the interim got a few rich 
 top-dressings. 
 
 Frequently, in attempting to take out of the tubs those 
 that are in a sickly state, all the soil falls from their roots, 
 having no fibres attached. When there are any such, after 
 replanting, put them in the green-house, and shut it almost 
 close up ; there give shade to the tree, and frequent sprinklings 
 of water, until it begins to grow, when admit more air gra- 
 dually until it becomes hardened. Sickly trees should be put 
 in very small tubs, and a little sand added to the soil. Grive 
 very moderate supplies of water, merely keeping the soil 
 moist. Tubs generally give way at the bottom when they 
 begin to decay, and in the usual method of coopering after 
 this failure they are useless, the ledging being rotten, and 
 will not admit of another bottom. The staves should be 
 made without any groove, and have four brackets nailed on 
 the inside, having the bottom in a piece by itself, that it can 
 be placed on these brackets, and there is no necessity of it 
 being water tight. Then when it fails it can be replaced 
 again at a trifling expense. A tub made in this way will out- 
 last three or four bottoms, and is in every respect the cheap- 
 est, and should be more wide than deep. When made in this 
 manner they are easier shifted ; you have only to set the tub 
 on a high block of wood, and drive the tub off with a mallet, 
 when the tree caji be easily replaced into another tub. Large 
 AJyrtles and Oleanders may be treated in the same manner as 
 directed for the above. 
 
 OF PRUNING ORANGES, LEMONS, ETC. 
 
 These trees will grow very irregularly, especially the 
 Lemon, if not frequently dressed or pruned. Any time this 
 
Alic/list.'] GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING, ETC. 275 
 
 month look over them all minutely, and cut away any of the 
 small naked wood where it is too crowded, and cut all young 
 strong straggling shoots to the bounds of the tree, giving it 
 a round regular head. It is sometimes necessary to cut out 
 1 small limb, but large amputations should be avoided. 
 Cover all large wounds with clay, turpentine, or beeswax, to 
 prevent the bad effects of the air. 
 
 OP REPOTTING PLANTS. 
 
 Any of the plants enumerated in March under this head 
 may be now done according to directions therein given, and 
 which apply to all sizes. This is the proper period for repot- 
 ting the following : 
 
 Calla, a genus of four species. None of them in our col- 
 lections, and in fact not worth cultivation, except G. jEthi- 
 opica, Ethiopian Lily, which is admired for the purity and 
 singularity of its large white flowers, or rather spatha, which is 
 cucuUate, leaves sagittate. It is now called Richardia jEthi- 
 opica. The roots, which are tubers, should be entirely divested 
 of the soil they have been grown in, breaking off any small 
 offriets, and potting them wholly in fresh earth. When grow- 
 ing, they cannot get too much water. The plant will grow in 
 a pond of water, and withstand our severest winters, provided 
 the roots are kept at the bottom of the water. 
 
 Cyclamen. There are eight species and six varieties of 
 this genus, which consists of humble plants with very beau- 
 tiful flowers. The bulbs are round, flattened, and solid, and 
 are peculiarly adapted for pots and the decorating of rooms. 
 0. coum, leaves almost round ; flowers light red ; in bloom 
 from January to April. C. persicum, with its four varieties, 
 flower from January to April; colour white, and some white 
 and purple. C. hedercefolium, Ivy-leaved ; colour lilac ; 
 there is a white variety ; flowers from September to De- 
 cember. C. Uui'opceiim, colour lilac, in bloom from August 
 to October. C Neapolitdnum, flowers red ; in bloom from 
 July to September. These are all desirable plants. When 
 the foliage begins to decay, withhold the accustomed sup- 
 plies of water, keeping them in a half dry state ; and, when 
 growing, they n^ust not be over-watered, as they are apt to 
 
276 GREEN-HOUSE — KEl'OTTIXG, ETC. lAilJUsf. 
 
 rot from moisture. Keep them during the summer months 
 in partial shade. The best time for potting either of the 
 sorts is when the crown of the bulb begins to protrude. If 
 the pots are becoming large, every alternate year they ma}' 
 be cleared from the old soil, and put in smaller pots with 
 the crown entirely above the ground. When the flowers 
 fade, the pedicles twist up like a screw, enclosing the germ 
 in the centre, lying close to the ground until the seeds ripen, 
 from which plants can be grown, and will flower the third 
 year. 
 
 Lachendlia, a genus of about forty species of bulbs, all 
 natives of the Cape of Good Hope, and grow well in our 
 collections. The most common is L. tricolor. L. quadri' 
 color and its varieties are all fine ; the colours yellow, scarlet, 
 orange and green, very pure and distinct ; L. riihida, L. 
 punctata, L. orchoides, and L. nervosa are all fine species. 
 The flowers are on a stem from half to one foot high, and 
 much in the character of a hyacinth. The end of the month 
 is about the time of planting. Five inch pots are large 
 enough, and they must get very little water till they begin to 
 grow. 
 
 Oxdlis, above one hundred species of Cape bulbs, and, 
 like all other bulbs of that country, they do exceedingly well 
 in our collections, in which there are only comparatively a few 
 species, not exceeding twenty. 0. hirta, branching, of a ver- 
 milion colour ; 0. Jiabili/dlia, yellow ; 0. elongdta, striped ; 
 and amcena arc those that require potting this month. The 
 first of September is the most proper period for the others. 
 (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 This genus of plants is so varied in the construction of its 
 roots that the same treatment will not do for all. The root 
 is commonly bulbous, and these will keep a few weeks or 
 months out of the soil, according to their size. Several are 
 only thick and fleshy; these ought not to be taken out of the 
 pots, but kept in them, while dormant; and about the end of 
 this month give them gentle waterings. When they begin to 
 grow, take the earth from the roots, and put them in fresh 
 soil. In a few months the bulbs are curiously produced, the 
 original bulb near the surface striking a radical fibre down- 
 right fi'om its base, at the extremity of which is produced a 
 new bulb for the next year's plant, the old one perishing. 
 
 Ornithdgalum, Star of Bethlehem^ about sixty species of 
 
September.'] GREEN-HOUSE — OBSERVATIONS. 277 
 
 bulbs, principally from the Cape of Gi-ood Hope. Many of 
 them have but little attraction. The most beautiful that we 
 have seen are 0. lacteum, which has a spike about one foot 
 long, of fine white flowers, 0. Peruviana, blue flowered, and 
 0. aureum, flowers of a golden colour,- in contracted rac-smose 
 corymbs. These three are magn'.ficent. O. maritimuni is 
 the ofiicinal squill. The bulb is frequently as large as a 
 human head, pear-shaped, and tunicated like the onion. From 
 the centre of the root arise several shining glaucous leaves a 
 foot long, two inches broad at base, and narrowing to a point. 
 They are green during winter, and decay in the spring ; then 
 the flower-stalk comes out, rising two feet, naked half way, 
 and terminated by a pyramidal thyrse of white flowers. The 
 bulb ought to be kept dry from the end of June till now, or 
 it will not flower freely. 
 
 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 Watering, and other practical care of the plants, to be done 
 as heretofore described. Frequently the weather at the end 
 of this month becomes cool and heavy. Dew falling through 
 the night will, in part, supply the syringing operation, but it 
 must not be suspended altogether. Once or twice a week will 
 suffice. Any of the plants that are plunged should be turned 
 every week. In wet weather, observe that none are sufi'ering 
 from moisture. 
 
 SEPTEMBEK. 
 
 During this month, every part of the green-house should 
 have a thorough cleantang, which is too frequently neglected, 
 and many hundreds of insects left unmolested. To preserve 
 the wood-work in good order, give it one coat of paint every 
 year. Repair all broken glass, whitewash the whole interior, 
 giving the flues two or three coats, and cover the stages with 
 hot lime, whitewash, or oil paint; examine ropes, pulleys, and 
 weights, finishing by washing the pavement perfectly clean. 
 24 
 
278 GREEN-HOUSE — STOCKS, ETC. {^September 
 
 If th(jre have been any plants in the house during summer, 
 be sure after this cleansing that they are clean also, before 
 they are returned to their respective situations. 
 
 OP WATERING. 
 
 The intensity of the heat being over for the season, the 
 heavy dews during night will prevent so much absorption 
 among the plants. They will, in general, especially by the 
 end of the month, require limited supplies of water compa- 
 ratively to their wants in the summer months. Be careful 
 among the Geraniums that were repotted in August, not to 
 water them until the new soil about their roots is becoming 
 dry. Syringing in this month may be suspended in time of 
 heavy dews, but in dry nights resort to it again. 
 
 The herbaceous plants and those of a succulent nature must 
 be sparingly supplied. The large trees that were put in new 
 earth will require a supply only once a week, but in such 
 quantity as will go to the bottom of the tubs. 
 
 PREPARING FOR TAKING IN THE PLANTS. 
 
 About the end of the month, all the plants should be exa- 
 mined and cleaned in like manner as directed for those of the 
 hot-house, last month, which see. From the first to the eighth 
 of October is the most proper time to take them into the 
 green-house, except those of a half-hardy nature, which may 
 stand out until the appearance of frost. Always endeavour 
 to have Geranium plants short and bushy, for they are 
 unsightly otherwise, except where a very few large specimens 
 are desired for show. All Myrtles and Oleanders that were 
 headed down, if the young shoots are too crowded, continue 
 to thin them out, and give regular turnings, that all the heads 
 may grow regularly. 
 
 STOCKS AND WALL-FLOWERS, 
 
 That are wanted to flower in the green-house (where they 
 do remarkably well), and are in the ground, have them care- 
 
Septemher.'] GREEN-HOUSE — CAPE BULBS. 279 
 
 full}' lifted before the end of the month, and planted in six 
 or seven inch pots, with light loamy soil. Place them in the 
 shade till they take fresh root, and give them frequent sprink- 
 lings of water. As soon as the foliage becomes erect, expose 
 them to the full sun, and treat as green-house plants. 
 
 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
 
 These very ornamental plants blooming so late, and at a 
 period when there are few others in flower, one of each variety 
 (or two of some of the finest) should be lifted and put in 
 eight-inch pots, in light loamy soil, and treated as above di- 
 rected for stocks, &c. These will flower beautifully from Oc- 
 tober to December ; and, when done blooming, the pots may 
 be plunged in the garden, or covered with any kind of litter 
 until spring, when they can be divided, and planted out. 
 
 CAPE AND HOLLAND BULBS. 
 
 About the end of this month is the period for all of these 
 that are intended for the green-house to be potted. We spe- 
 cified some of the former last month, and will here enumerate 
 a ie-vf others. 
 
 Anomatheca crdenta, a sparkling little gem of a bulb, pro- 
 ducing a mass of scarlet flowers spotted with orange and 
 brown. 
 
 Bahiana, a genus of small bulbs, with pretty blue, white, 
 red, and yellow flowers. £. distica, pale blue flowers in two 
 ranks. £. stricta, flowers blue and white. B. tuhijibra, 
 beautiful bright blue. B. jjlicata has sweet-scented pale blue 
 flowers. B. villosa, red; B. suIjjJiurea, sulphur-colour; B. 
 ruhro-cyanea, dark purple with crimson centre. There are 
 about twenty species of them, and they grow from six to 
 twelve inches high. Five-inch pots are suflicient for them. 
 (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 Gladiolus, corn-flag, a genus of above fifty species. There 
 are several very showy plants among them, and a few very 
 superb. G. fiorihundus, large pink and white flowers. G. 
 cardindlis, flowers superb scarlet, spotted with white. G. 
 hi/zan{inus, purple G. bldndvs, flowers of a blush rose 
 
280 GREEN-HOUSE — HOLLAND BULBS. \_Stptember. 
 
 colour, and handsome. G. cuspiddtus, flowers ■white and 
 purple. G. racembsuSy flowers beautiful rose and white. G. 
 j)sittdcinus ; the flowers are striped with green, yellow, and 
 scarlet, about four inches in diameter, in great profusion, on 
 a stem about two feet high. G. /unnosissimus, beautiful 
 bright scarlet, the three upper petals having a spot of white, 
 a very profuse bloomer. G. Queen Victoria, G. Lafayette, 
 and several others are of very similar character. G. (janila- 
 vensis, very superb orange and yellow. G. Bvi&tii, large 
 bright scarlet, perhaps the finest of the whole family. They 
 all do perfectly when kept di-y all winter, and planted in the 
 open ground early in March. The beauty of this genus is all 
 centered in the flowers. (Soil No. 10.) 
 
 Ixin, a genus containing about twenty-five species of very 
 free-flowering bulbs. I. monacWpha, flowers blush and green. 
 /. leucdntha, flowers large white. /. capatdta, flowers in 
 heads, of a white and almost black colour. /. conica, flowers 
 orange and velvet. /. columeldris is a beautiful shaded rosy 
 purple. I. kermosina, a fine vermilion colour. /. squaUida, 
 shaded rosy lilac ; /. viridijlbra, green ; I. longiflbra, buff". 
 The flower stems are from six to twenty-four inches high. 
 (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 lAlium. The Chinese species of this emblem of purity 
 is everywhere esteemed, and the fine Chinese sorts are very 
 splendid, such as L. longiflbra, L. longiflora suaveolens, and 
 L. japonicum, are all pure white; L. lancifbliiim, white 
 petals reflexed ; L. lancifblium piinctatum, white, spotted 
 with rose; L. lancifblium speciosum, rose, spotted with 
 crimson. L. lancifblium and its varieties, are all delight- 
 fully scented with the odour of vanilla ; noble specimens of 
 the family hom Japan, growing from four to six feet high; 
 a full-grown bulb producing from ten to twenty flowers, and 
 perfectly hardy south of Philadelphia. They should be 
 potted in seven or eight inch pots, and kept in a cool part of 
 the green-house ; give the pots at least one inch of drainage. 
 (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 Oxdlis. All the varieties and species may now be potted ; 
 the whole are pretty spring flowers, requiring to be kept 
 near the glass: among the many the following are very 
 deserving of attention : 0. hixulus, or rosacea, bright rose. 
 0. Bbwii, bright rose red, a large and profuse bloomer, and 
 one of the finest. 0. florahicnda, pink ; a pretty free-flow- 
 
September.'] GREEN-HOUSE — HOLLAND BULBS. 281 
 
 ering tuberous species. 0. luxula alba, blush, wbite; 0. 
 midtijldra, profuse flowering, white. 0. versicolor, striped. 
 0. dippii, lilac, which blooms in summer. 0. caparinay 
 yellow ; there is also a double yellow variety, though not 
 pretty; for a few others see last month. There should be 
 three or four bulbs planted in a five-inch pot, giving very 
 little water till they begin to grow. They will all keep in 
 good pits, as well as in the green-house. (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 Spardxis. We are enraptured with this beautiful genus 
 of small bulbs, closely allied to Ixia, but more varied in 
 colour. S. grandiflbra striata is striped with purple and 
 white. ^S". versicolor, colours crimson, dark purple, and yel- 
 low. S. tricolor, yellow, black, and scarlet. S. albida, 
 large white, with black spots. S. coelestis, bluish purple. ^S*. 
 sulphurea, yellow. S. purpilrascens, purple. Treat as Oxdlis. 
 (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 Tritbnia, a genus of about twenty-five species. Few of 
 them deserve culture in regard to their beauty. T. crocdta, 
 is in our collections as / crocdta, which is among the finest, 
 and T. zanthospUa has white flowers, curiously spotted with 
 yellow. (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 Watsoiiia, a genus containing several species of showy 
 flowers, several of which are in our collections under the 
 genus Gladiolus, but the most of the species may be dis- 
 tinguished from it by their flat shell-formed bulbs. W. iridi- 
 fblia is the largest of the genus, and has flowers of a flesh 
 colour. W. rosea is large growing, the flowers are pink, and 
 on the stem in a pyramidal form. W. humilis is a pretty 
 red-flowering species. W. fulgida, once Antholyza fulgensj 
 has fine bright scarlet flowers. W. rilbens is an esteemed red- 
 flowering species, but scarce. (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 These genera of bulbous plants are in general cultivation. 
 There are, no doubt, some splendid species that have not 
 come under our observation, and others which may be ob- 
 tained from the Cape of Good Hope and China that are not 
 known in any collection, all of which would be perfectly hardy 
 in our Southern States. Bulbs generally require very little 
 w"ater until they begin to gx'ow; then supply moderately, and 
 keep tliem near the light. Of the Holland or Dutch bulbs, 
 the Hyacinth is the favourite to bloom in the green-house. A 
 few of the Tulip, JVar:issus, Iris and Crocus, may, for variety, 
 be also planted with any other that curiosity may dictate. 
 24* 
 
28ii GREEN-HOUSE — OF TAKING IN, ETC. lOctobet 
 
 When these are grown in pots, the soil should be four-eighths 
 loam, two-eighths leaf mould, one-eighth decomposed manure, 
 one-eighth sand, well compounded ; plant in pots from five to 
 seven inches, keep the crown of the bulb above the surface of 
 the soil, except of the tulip, which should be covered two 
 inches. When these roots are potted, plunge them in the 
 garden about three inches under ground j mark out a space 
 sufficient to contain them ; throw out the earth about four 
 inches deep, place the pots therein, covering them with earth 
 to the above depth, making it in the form of a bed. Leave 
 a trench all round to carry off the rain. By so doing, the 
 bulbs will root strongly, the soil will be kept in a conge- 
 nial state about them, and they will prove far superior than 
 if done in the common method. Lift them from this bed ou 
 the approach of frost, or not later than the second week of 
 December ; wash the pots and take them into the green-house. 
 
 OCTOBER. 
 
 OF TAKING IN AND ARRANGING THE PLANTS. 
 
 As observed in the previous month, let the housing of 
 green-house plants now be attended to. Have all in before 
 the eighth of the month, except a few of the half-hardy sorts, 
 which may stand until convenient. Begin by taking in all 
 the tallest first, such as Oranges, Lemons, Myrtles, Oleanders, 
 &c. Limes ought to be kept in the warmest part of the 
 house, otherwise they will throw their foliage. In arrange- 
 ment, order is necessary to have a good effect; and in small 
 bouses it ought to be neat and regular, placing the tallest 
 behind, and according to their size graduating the others 
 down to tho lowest in front. Disjjose the different sorts in 
 varied order over the house, making the contrast as striking 
 as possible. Having the surface of the whole as even as 
 practicable, with a few of the most conspicuous for shape and 
 beauty protruding above the mass, ^fhich will much improve 
 the general appearance, and greatly add to the effect. All 
 succulents should be put together. In winter they will do 
 
October.'] GREEN-HOUSE — OF REPOTTING. 283 
 
 in a dark part of the house, where other plants will not 
 grow, studying to have the most tender kinds in the warmest 
 part, and giving gentle waterings every three or four weeks. 
 When all are arranged, give them a proper syringing, after 
 which wipe clean all the stages, benches, &c., sweeping out 
 all litter, and wash clean the pavement, which will give to all 
 a neat and becoming appearance. 
 
 Let the waterings now be done in the mornings, as often 
 and in such quantities as will supply their respective wants, 
 examining the plants every day. 
 
 During the continuance of mild weather, the circulation of 
 air must be as free as possible, opening the doors and front 
 and top sashes regularly over the house. But observe in 
 /rosty nights to keep all closely shut. Be attentive in clear- 
 ing off decayed leaves and insects. 
 
 Any plants of Lagerstnemia, StercMia, Hydrangea^ 
 Pomegranate, and others equally hardy, that are deciduous, 
 may be kept perfectly in a dry, light, airy cellar : give fre- 
 quent admissions of air, and one or two waterings during 
 winter. 
 
 OF REPOTTING. 
 
 Anemones. Where A. nemorosa florc plena and A. thalio 
 
 troides fibre plena are kept in pots in the green-house, they 
 should be turned out of the old earth, and planted in fresh 
 soil. They are both pretty, low-growing, double white flow- 
 ering plants, and require a shaded situation. The latter is 
 now called Thalictrum anemoncoides. (Soil No. 11.) 
 
 Daphne is a genus of diminutive shrubs, mostly over- 
 greens of great beauty and fragrance. Very few species of 
 them are in our collections. I), odora, frequently called Z>. 
 indica, is an esteemed plant for the delightful odour of its 
 flowers, and valuable for the period of its flowering, being 
 from December to March, according to-the situation; leaves 
 scattered, oblong, lanceolate and smooth ; flowers small white, 
 in many flowered terminal heads; there is a variety equally 
 as fine with marginated foliage. D. odora rubra, the buds 
 are red, and the flowers rose white, of a delightful spicy fra- 
 grance. U. hybrida is a species in high estimation at present 
 'n Europe, but little known here being only in a few collec. 
 
284 GREEN-HOUSE. — OF REPOTTING. \_October, 
 
 tions, flowers rosy purple, in terminal heads, and lateral 
 bunches in great profusion ; blooms from January to May, 
 and is of a peculiar fragrance. D. oleoides is what may be 
 termed " ever-blooming :" flowers of a lilac colour ; leaves 
 elliptic, lanceolate, smooth. D. laureola, Spurge laurel ; D. 
 pdntica, D. alplna, and D. Cneorum, are all fine species, and 
 in Europe are esteemed ornaments in the shrubbery, but they 
 are not hardy in our vicinity. (Soil No. 15.) 
 
 Primula. There are a few fine species and varieties in 
 this genus, adapted either for the green-house or rooms. All 
 the species and varieties will keep perfectly well in a frame, 
 except the China sorts. Having previously observed a few of 
 the other species and varieties, we will observe the treatment 
 of these. P. sinensis, known commonly as China primrose; 
 flowers pink, and in large proliferous umbels, flowering almost 
 through the whole year, but most profusely from January to 
 May. There is a double white and a double purple variety 
 that will always be scarce, from the slow method of their pro- 
 pagation. Keep them in the shade, and be careful that they 
 are not over-watered during summer. As the stems of the 
 plant become naked, at this repotting a few inches should be 
 taken ofi" the bottom of the ball, and placing them in a larger 
 pot will allow the stems to be covered up to the leaves. P. 
 p. albljlora, colour pure white and beautiful. P. p. denti- 
 Jlora ; there is also a white variety of this, both similar to 
 the former two, only the flower indented or fringed. All 
 these require the same treatment. As they live only a few 
 years, many individuals, to propagate them, divide the stems, 
 which in most cases will utterly destroy them. The best, and 
 we may say the only method to increase them is from seed, . 
 which they produce every year. (Soil No. 2.) 
 
 Pcednia mdutan: this magnificent plant and its varieties 
 are quite hardy with us, but most of them require the green- 
 house in northern latitudes. These are P. moutan, Tree 
 Pseony ; the flower is about five inches in diameter, of a 
 blush colour, and semi-double. P. M. Bankitii, is the common 
 Tree Pteony, and called in our collection P. moutan; it has 
 a very large double blush flower, and is much admired. P. 
 31. pajynveracea is a most magnificent variety; has large 
 single white flowers, with purple centres. P. M. rosea is a 
 splendid rose-coloured double variety, and is scarce; there are 
 also iu China several other varieties, such as purple, scarlet, 
 
October.'} GREEN-HOUSE — CAMELLIAS. 285 
 
 and crimson, which have been introduced into cultivation, and 
 within these few years, many varieties have originated ia 
 Europe, said to be very magnificent. These plants ought not 
 to be exposed to the sun while in flower, as the colours become 
 degenerated, and premature decay follows. 
 
 if the Dutch bulbs intended for flowering during winter 
 are not potted, have them all done as soon as possible, accord- 
 ing to directions given last month. 
 
 CAMELLIAS. 
 
 These plants ought to have a thorough examination, and 
 Ihose that were omitted in repotting before they commenced 
 growing, may be done in the early part of this mouth ; but 
 it is not advisable, except the roots are all round the ball of 
 earth, which should be turned out entire. Examine all the 
 pots, stir up the surface of the earth, and take it out to the 
 roots, supplying its place with fresh soil. Destroy any worms 
 that may be in the pots, as they are very destructive to the 
 fibres. Look over the foliage, and with a sponge and water, 
 clear it of all dust, &c. Frequently the buds are too crowded 
 on these plants, especially the Double white and Varie<jated. 
 In such case pick off the weakest, and where there are two 
 together, be careful in cutting, so that the remaining bud may 
 not be injured. 
 
 This is the best period of the year to make selections of 
 these, as they now can be transported hundreds of miles 
 without any material injury, if they are judiciously packed 
 in close boxes. In making a choice of these, keep in view 
 to have distinctly marked varieties, including a few of those 
 that are esteemed as stocks for producing new kinds, which 
 are undoubtedly indispensable, and will reward the cultivator 
 in a few years with new sorts. Besides, it will afford 
 unbounded gratification to behold any of these universally 
 admired ornaments of the green-house improving by our 
 assistance and under our immediate observation. There ia 
 nothing to prevent any indi^dual from producing splendid 
 varieties in a few years. Mr. Hogg correctly observes, " It 
 is very probable in a few years we shall have as great a 
 variety of Camellias as there are of Tulips, Hyacinths, Car- 
 
286 GREEN-HOUSE — OF AIR AND WATER. [November 
 
 nations, Auriculas," &c. This shrewd remark is likely to bo 
 verified rauch earlier than we anticipated. 
 
 It has been often said that these plants are difficult of 
 cultivation. This is unfounded j indeed, they are the reverse 
 if put in a soil congenial to their nature. When highly 
 manured soils are given, which are poisonous to the plants, 
 sickness or death will inevitably ensue j but this cannot be 
 attributed to the delicacy of their nature. We can unhe- 
 sitatingly say there is no green-house plant more hardy or 
 easier of cultivation, provided they are kept at an even 
 temperature, say from 40° to 45° during night, and 45° to 
 50° during day, and they are equally so in the parlour, if 
 not kept confined in a room where there is a continuance of 
 drying fire heat, their constitution not agreeing with an arid 
 atmosphere. 
 
 SOWING CAMELLIA SEED. 
 
 These seeds ripen generally during September and October, 
 and must be sown as soon as ripe ; plant them about one inch 
 under ground into pots filled with leaf mould, loam, and white 
 sand, in equal portions ; if the pots after sowing can be placed 
 in a hot-house, they will vegetate in about six weeKS, and be 
 ready to pot into single pots in February. Many of them 
 will bloom in the second year; but if heat is not accessible, 
 keep the pots in the warmest part of the green-house, and 
 give an occasional watering, and the plants will appear some 
 time in May and June : they will be ready to pot into single 
 pots in September, and after doing so put them into a close 
 frame, and shade them from the sun for a few weeks ; use at 
 this potting only about one-fifth of sand. 
 
 NOVEMBER. 
 
 OF AIR AND WATER. 
 
 Airing the house should be strictly attended to. Every 
 day that there is no frost it may be admitted largely, and 
 
December. ~\ green-house — observations. 287 
 
 jti time of slight frosts in smaller portions, never keeping it 
 altogether close when the sun has any effect on the interior 
 temperature of the house, which should not be allowed to be 
 higher than fifty degrees. 
 
 Water must be given in a very sparing manner. None of 
 the plants are in an active state of vegetation, consequently 
 it will be found that looking over them thrice a week and 
 supplying their wants will be sufficient. Succulents will need 
 a little once in three weeks or a month. Give very moderate 
 supplies to the Amaryllis that are dormant, and keep all these 
 bulbs in the warmest part of the house. 
 
 OP TENDER BULBS. 
 
 Where there are tropical bulbs in the collection, and there 
 is not the convenience of a hot-house, they may be very well 
 preserved by shaking them clear of the soil. Dry them pro- 
 perly, and place them in a box of very dry sand or moss, and 
 put them in a situation near the furnace, where they will be 
 free from damp. These caa be potted about the first of April. 
 Give no water till they b^igin to grow, then plant them in the 
 garden about the middle of May, where they will flower during 
 the summer season, if they are mature. 
 
 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 If there are any of the half-hardy plants exposed, have 
 them taken into the house or under the requisite protection, 
 in frames, pits, cellars, &c. The autumn flowering Cape bulbs 
 should be placed near the glass, and free from the shade of 
 other plants. Cleanliness through the whole house and 
 among the plants ought at all times to be attended to. 
 
 DECEMBER. 
 
 The weather may probably be now severe, and it is at 
 all times advisable to keep the temperature as steady and 
 
288 GREEN-HOUSE — BULBOUS ROOTS. \_Decemler. 
 
 regular as possible. The thermometer should be kept in the 
 centre of the house, and free from the effects of reflection. 
 As noticed last month, sun heat may be as high as 50"^ ia 
 the house, and would not be hurtful, but it should not con- 
 tinue so for any considerable time without admission of air. 
 The fire heat should not exceed 45°, and never below 35°. 
 It ought not to continue at that point — 36° is the lowest for 
 a continuation that with safety can be practised ; and where a 
 collection of Cactii are kept, 40° should be the lowest. So 
 that no error may occur, the temperature ought to be known 
 in the coolest and warmest parts of the house, and the varia- 
 tion remembered ; then whatever part of the house the ther- 
 mometer is placed, a true calculation of the heat of the whole 
 interior can be made. We would recommend to the inexperi- 
 enced to keep the thermometer in the coldest part of th.^ 
 house. A green-house compactly and closely built, and the 
 lowest row of top sash all covered with shutters (which no 
 house ought to be constructed without), will seldom require 
 artificial heat; but by being long kept close, the damp will 
 increase. In such case give a ]ittle fire heat, and admit air 
 to purify the house. In fresh mild weather, give liberal por- 
 tions of air all over the house : atd though there is a little 
 frost, while mild, and the sun shining, the plants will be bene- 
 fited by a small portion of air for the space of an hour, or 
 even for half of that time. 
 
 Whatever state the weather may be through the winter, 
 never keep the house long shut up. Thirty-six hours should 
 be the longest time at once ; rather give a little fire heat. 
 
 We are no advocates for keeping plants in the dark^ and 
 never think that our plants are receiving justice if kept longer 
 in darkness than one night. 
 
 BULBOUS ROOTS, 
 
 Those that were plunged in the garden, if not lifted and 
 brought under cover, this should now be done without delay. 
 Clean the pots, and stir up the surface of the soil. Hyacinths 
 grow neatest by being kept very close to the top glass ; the 
 flower-stems are thereby stronger and shorter. Water mode- 
 rately until they begin to grow freely. 
 
-is, 
 
 THE 
 
 AMERICAN FLOWER-GAEDEN 
 DIRECTORY. 
 
 ROOMS. 
 
 PLANTS IN ROOMS. 
 
 To treat on the proper management of plants in windows 
 ia a subject of considerable difficulty; every genus requiriug 
 some variation both in soil, water, and general treatment. 
 However, a great part of the labour will be abridged by refer- 
 ring to these subjects in the green-house culture, which is 
 quite applicable to the parlour, green-room, or veranda. If 
 the room where the plants are kept is dark and close, but few 
 will ever thrive ; if, on the contrary, it is light and airy, with 
 the windows in a suitable aspect to receive the sun, plants 
 will do nearly as well, and, in some instances, better, than in 
 a green-house. This is a well-known fact, and may be ob- 
 served every day. We have seen as fine plants of Cactus, 
 Daphne, Roses, Geraniums, Callas, Laurestinus, Carnations, 
 Azaleas, and Myrtles, grown in a window, from year to year, 
 as ever could be grown in a green-house. Indeed, when 
 there is a failure, it can be traced to one of the following 
 three causes : 
 
 1st. Want of proper light and pure air is, perhaps, the 
 
 most essential point of any to be considered ; for, however 
 
 well all other requisites are attended to, a deficiency in either 
 
 of these will cause the plants to grow weak, yellow, and 
 
 25 (289) 
 
290 ROOMS — PLANTS IN ROOMS. 
 
 sickly. Therefore, have them always placed as near the 
 light as possible, and receive as much air as can be admitted, 
 when the weather will allow, and occasionally, in fine days, 
 carry them out of doors, and give them a sprinkling of water 
 all over. 
 
 2d. Injurious watering does more injury to plants in rooms 
 than many persons imagine ; and it is very often to be ob- 
 served that some individuals destroy all with too much, and 
 others kill all with too little of that nourisher of health. To 
 prevent the soil ever having a dry appearance is an object of 
 great importance in the estimation of many : they, therefore, 
 water to such an excess that the soil becomes sodden, and 
 the roots consequently perish. Others, as we have said, run 
 to the opposite extreme, and do not give sufficient to sustain 
 life, and this is a more common practice than that of too much. 
 The best plan is, always to allow the mould in the pot to have 
 the appearance of dryness, but never sufficient to make the 
 plant droop before a supply of water is given, which should 
 then be copious and thoroughly going to the bottom of the 
 pot ; but always empty it out of tho saucer or pan in which 
 the pot stands : the water used should always be of about *lie 
 same temperature as that in which the plants grow; avoid 
 using it fresh from the pump. 
 
 3d. Being over-jpotted in unsuitable soil. This is also a 
 crying evil, and large pots invariably given to weak plants, 
 with the view of causing them to grow; but such practitioners 
 are like the unskilful physician who gluts the weakly stomach 
 of his patient, only hastening on what they are trying to pre- 
 vent. With weak plants the very reverse should be practised, 
 giving small pots to encourage their roots outward : whereas, 
 the earth in a large pot to a small plant, with frequent water- 
 ings, soon becomes sour and stagnated, and utterly obnoxious 
 to the roots of even the strongest growing plants. If the 
 directions and table of soils, in this work, are properly followed 
 up, unsuitable soils will rarely occur, especially when each 
 genus is separately treated. 
 
 In fact, we have yet to be convinced why all plants, with 
 the exception of a few tropical, and those belonging to U7'i- 
 cece and Ejmcridece, will not grow and bloom well in rooms 
 and windows. With the following monthly instructions, 
 and executing them properly, failure will seldom occur; but 
 where failure should occur, we would call particular attention 
 
January."] ROOMS — watering, etc. 291 
 
 to the tribo of Cactii, which are varied, beautiful, and truly 
 interesting, and grow admirably in dry rooms, with or without 
 full exposure to the sun, and in any temperature from 45° 
 to 85°, requiring only small portions of water once a week in 
 winter, and twice or thrice a week during summer: they 
 also only require fresh soil once a year, or even once in 
 two years for large plants will be found sufficient. The 
 variety now cultivated is truly astonishing, and we doubt not 
 but in a few years large horticultural buildings will be 
 erected for their express culture; and, to the inexperienced 
 amateur, there is not a family of plants that will give more 
 satisfaction, or, when properly studied, will afford greater 
 interest and amusement. 
 
 JANUARY. 
 
 Plants that are kept in rooms generally are such as re- 
 quire a medium temperature, say from 40° to 60°. Sitting- 
 rooms or parlours, about this season, are, for the most part, 
 heated from 60° to 70°, and very seldom has the air any 
 admittance into these apartments ; thus keeping the tempera- 
 ture from 10° to 15° higher than the nature of the plants 
 requires, and excluding that fresh air which is requisite to 
 support a vegetative principle. Therefore, as far as practi- 
 cable, let the plants be kept in a room adjoining to one where 
 there is fire heat, and the intervening door can be opened 
 when desirable. They will admit sometimes of being as low 
 as 38°. 
 
 If they be constantly kept where there is fire, let the win- 
 dow be open some inches, once a day, for a few minutes, 
 thereby making the air of the apartment more congenial, both 
 for animal and vegetable nature. 
 
 "WATERING, :.;;'. 
 
 All that is necessary is merely to keep the soil in a moist 
 state, that is, do not let it get so dry that you can divide the 
 particles of earth, nor so wet that th«y could be beat to clay. 
 
292 ROOMS — OP INSECTS, ETC. [January. 
 
 The frequency of watering can be best regulated by the 
 person doing it, as it depands entirely upon the size of the 
 pot or jar in proportion to the plant, whether it is too small 
 or too large, and the situation it stands in, whether moist or 
 arid. Never allow any quantity of water to stand in the 
 flats or saucers. This is too frequently practised with plants 
 in general. Such as Cdlla jEtliiopica , or African Lily, will 
 do well, as water is its element (like Sagittdria in this 
 country) ; the Hydrangea and Hijacintlis, when in a growing 
 state, will do admirably under such treatment. Many plants 
 may do well for some time, but it beiag so contrary to their 
 nature, causes premature decay; a fetid stagnation takes place 
 at the root, the foliage becomes yellow, the plant stunted, and 
 death follows. 
 
 OF CAMELLIA JAPONICA. 
 
 In rooms, the buds of Camellias will be well swelled, and 
 on the double white and double variegated sorts perhaps they 
 will be full-blown. While in that state the temperature 
 should not be below 40°; if lower, they will not expand so 
 well, and the expanded petals will soon become yellow and 
 decay. If they are where there is fire heat, they must have 
 plenty of air admitted to them every favourable opportunity, 
 and water freely given, or the consequence will be that all the 
 buds will turn dark brown, and fall off. It is generally the 
 case, in the treatment of these beautiful plants in rooms, that, 
 through too much intended care, they are entirely destroyed. 
 They do not agree with confined air, and to sponge frequently 
 will greatly promote the health of the plants and add to the 
 beauty of their foliage, as it prevents the attacks of the red 
 spider. 
 
 When the flowers are expanded, and droop, tie them up 
 neatly, so that the flower may be shown to every advantage. 
 
 OP INSECTS, ETC. 
 
 Insects of various kinds will be appearing on your plants. 
 For method of destruction, see Hot-house, January. It will 
 not be agreeable to fumigate the room or rooms, or even to 
 Lave the smell of tobacco near the house from this cause. 
 
January.'] ROOMS — OP bulbous roots, etc. ii9S 
 
 Take a tub of soft water (if the day is frosty it had "better 
 be done in the house), invert the plant, holding the hand, or 
 tying a piece of cloth, or anything of the kind, over the soil 
 in the pot, put all the branches in the water, keeping the pot 
 in the hand, drawing it to and fro a few times; take it out 
 and shake it. If any insects remain, take a small fine brush, 
 and brush them ofi", giving another dip, which will clean them 
 for the present. As soon as they appear again, repeat the pro- 
 cess — for nothing that we have found out, or heard of, can 
 totally extirpate them. 
 
 OP bulbous roots in general. 
 
 If you have retained any of the Cape bulhs from the last 
 planting, let them be put in in the early part of the month. 
 For method, see September. Those that are growing must be 
 kept very near the light, that is, close to the window, or they 
 will not flourish to your satisfaction. The fall-flowering 
 Oxalis may be kept on the stage, or any other place, to give 
 room to those that are to flower. 
 
 Hi/acinths, Jonquils, Narcissus, Tulips, &c., will keep 
 very well in a room where fire heat is constantly kept, pro- 
 vided that they ai'e close to the window. A succession of 
 these, as before observed, may beautify the drawing-room from 
 February to April, by having a reserved stock, in a cold situa- 
 tion, and taking a few of them every week into the warmest 
 apartment. 
 
 Wherever any of the bulbs are growing, and in the inte- 
 rior of the room, remove them close to the light, observing 
 to turn the pots or glasses frequently to prevent them from 
 growing to one side, and giving them support as soon as the 
 stems droop, or the head becomes pendent. The saucers 
 under the Hyacinth and Narcissus may stand with water, and 
 observe to change the water in the glasses once or twice a 
 week. 
 
 Every one that has any taste or refinement in their floral 
 undertakings, will delight in seeing the plants in perfection; 
 to have them so, they must be divested of every leaf that 
 has the appearance of decaying — let this always be attended 
 to. 
 
 25* 
 
294 EOOMS — CAMELLIAS. \_Fehruary 
 
 FEBRUARY. 
 
 At this season, the plants call for the most assiduous atten- 
 tion. If the stage has been made according to our descrip- 
 tion in September, in very cold nights it should be drawn to 
 the centre of the room, or at least withdrawn from the window, 
 observing every night to close the window tight by shutters, 
 or some substitute equally as good. And, if the temperature 
 begins to fall below 40°, means should be adopted to prevent 
 it from lowering, either by putting a fire in the room, or open- 
 ing any adjoining apartment where fire is constantly kept. 
 This latter method is the best, where it is practicable, and 
 ought to be studied to be made so. 
 
 Some very injudiciously, in extreme frosts, put into the 
 room where there is no chimney, among the plants, a fur- 
 nace of charcoal, in order to heat the room. The effect is, 
 that the foliage becomes dark brown and hardened like, and 
 many of the plants die, the rest not recovering until sum- 
 mer. 
 
 Watering may be attended to according to the directions of 
 January, only observing that those that begin to grow will 
 absorb a little more than those that are dormant. 
 
 Roses, especially the daily, if kept in the house, will begin 
 to show flower. Use means to kill the green-fly that may 
 attack them. 
 
 Hyacinths and other bulbs must have regular attendance 
 in tying up, &c. Take care not to tie them too tightly, leav- 
 ing sufficiency of space for the stem to expand. Give those 
 in the glasses their necessary supplies, and keep them all near 
 the light. Never keep bulbous roots, while growing, under 
 the shade of any other plant. 
 
 Camellias, with all their varied beauties, will, in this 
 month, make a splendid show. x\dhere to the directions 
 given in the previous month, and so that new varieties may 
 be obtained (see Green house, February, under the head of 
 Camellia^, which directions are equally applicable here. 
 When the flowers are full-blown, and kept in a temperature 
 between 40° and 50°, they will be perfect for the space of 
 four, five, aud frequently six weeks, and a good selection of 
 
March.'} rooms — repotting 295 
 
 healthy plants will continue to flower from December till 
 April. 
 
 Be sure that there is a little air admitted at all favourable 
 opportunities. 
 
 MARCH. 
 
 If the plants in these situations have been properly at- 
 tended to by admitting air at all favourable times, and when 
 the apartment was below 40°, a little fire heat applied to 
 counteract the cold, keeping the heat ab3ve that degree, your 
 attention will be rewarded by the healthy appearance of your 
 plants. The weather by this time has generally become 
 milder, so that air may be more freely admitted, especi- 
 ally from ten to three o'clock. They will require a more 
 liberal supply of water, but always avoid keeping them wet. 
 Pick off all decayed leaves, and tie up any straggling shoots j 
 give the pots a top-dressing with fresh soil, which will greatly 
 invigorate the plants, and will allow the fresh air to act upon 
 the roots, which is one of the principal assistants in vegeta- 
 tion. For those that require shifting or repotting, see Green- 
 liouse, March; the plants enumerated there equally apply 
 here, if they are in the collection, with this difference, 
 that well-kept rooms are about two or three weeks earlier 
 than the green-house. After the end of this month, where 
 there is a convenience, plants will do better in windows that 
 look to the east, in which the direct rays of a hot sun are 
 prevented from falling upon them, and the morning sun is 
 more congenial for plants in this country than the afternoon 
 sun. Where there is any dust on the leaves of any of them, 
 take a sponge and water, and make the whole clean ; like- 
 wise divest them of all insects. The green-fly is perhaps on 
 the roses ; if there are no conveniences for fumigating, wash 
 them off as previously directed. Where there are only a 
 few plants, these pests could be very easily kept off by exa- 
 mining the plants every day. For the scaly insect, see Ja- 
 nuary. If they have not been cleared off, get it done di- 
 
296 ROOMS — FLOWERING PLANTS. iMarch. 
 
 rectly ; for by the heat of the weather they will increase 
 tenfold- 
 
 FLOWERING PLANTS. 
 
 Hyacinihs, Tulips, Narcissus, Jonquils, and Crocus, will 
 be generally in flower. The former require plenty of water, 
 and the saucers under the pots should be constantly full, 
 until they are done blooming. The others need only be libe- 
 rally supplied at the surface of the pot. Give them neat 
 green-painted rods to support their flower-stems, and keep 
 them all near the light. The spring flowering Oxalis will 
 not open except it is exposed to the full rays of the sun. 
 The LacJienalia is greatly improved in colour with exposure 
 to the sun, though when in flower its beauties are preserved 
 by keeping it a little in the shade. 
 
 Priviulas, or Primrose, both Chinese and European, de- 
 light in an airy exposure ; but the sun destroys the beauty of 
 their flowers by making the colours fade. 
 
 Camellias. Many of them will be in perfection. See 
 green-house this month for a description of the finest varie- 
 ties. Do not let the sun shine upon the blooms. Those 
 that are done flowering will, in small pots, require to be 
 repotted. 
 
 The Hyacinths that are in glasses must be regularly sup- 
 plied with water. The roots will be very much reduced by 
 this method; therefore, when the bloom is over, if possible, 
 plant them in the garden, or bury them in pots of earth, to 
 ripen and strengthen the bulbs. They cannot satisfactorily 
 be again flowered in glasses, and, properly they ought not to 
 be allowed to bloom in the garden next year. Those that are 
 done flowering in pots can be set aside, and the usual water- 
 ings gradually withdrawn. Treat all other Dutch bulbs in a 
 similar manner. 
 
AprH.} ROOMS — DIRECTIONS, ETC. 297 
 
 APRIL 
 
 We remarked last month that, about this season, where it 
 is convenient, an eastern window is more congenial to plants 
 than a southern. The sun becomes too powerful, and the 
 mornmg sun is preferable to that of the afternoon. West is 
 also preferable to south. Some keep their flowering plants 
 in excellent order at a north window. But the weather is 
 so mild after this that there is no difl&culty in protecting and 
 growing plants in rooms. They generally suiTer most from 
 want of air and water : the window must be up a few inches, 
 or, altogether, according to the mildness of the day. And 
 as plants are liable to get covered with dust in these apart- 
 ments, and not so convenient to be syringed or otherwise 
 cleaned, take the first opportunity of a mild day to carry 
 them to a shady situation, and syringe well with water such 
 as are not in flower ; or, for want of a syringe, take a 
 watering-pot with a rose upon it; allowing them to stand 
 until they drip, when they may be put into their respective 
 situations; or expose them to a shower of rain, but avoid 
 allowing them to be deluged, which would be very injurious. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR PLANTS BROUGHT FROM THE GREEN- 
 HOUSE. 
 
 Any plants that are brought from the green-house during 
 the spring months ought to be as little exposed to the direct 
 rays of the sun as possible. Keep them in airy situations, 
 with plenty of light, giving frequent and liberal supplies of 
 water. Plants may be often observed through our city du- 
 ring this month fully exposed in the outside of a south win- 
 dow, with the blaze of a mid-day sun upon them, and these, 
 too, just come from the temperate and clamp atmosphei'e of 
 a well-regulated green-house. Being thus placed in an arid 
 situation, scorched between the glass and the sun, whose 
 heat is too powerful for them to withstand, the transition is 
 so sudden, that, however great their beauties may have ap- 
 peared, they in a few days become brown, the flowers tar- 
 
298 ROOMS — BRINGINa PLANTS OUT, ETC. [^April. 
 
 nish or decay, and the failure is generally attributed to indi- 
 viduals not at all concerned. From this and similar causes 
 many have drawn the unjust conclusion, viz., that "plants 
 from green-houses are of too delicate a nature to be exposed 
 in rooms or windows at this early season." But every year 
 gives more and more proof to the contrary. There are ladies 
 in Philadelphia, and those not a few, whose rooms and win- 
 dows at this period vie with the finest of our green-houses, 
 with respect to the health, beauty and order of their plants, 
 and we might almost say in variety. Some of them have got 
 above twenty kinds of Camellias in their collections, which 
 afford a continual beauty through the winter, with many other 
 desirable and equally valuable plants. The plants generally 
 are now growing pretty freely, and are not so liable to suffer 
 from liberal supplies of water, observing never to give it until 
 the soil in the pot is inclining to become dry, and administer 
 ing it in the evenings or mornings. 
 
 FLOWERING PLANTS. 
 
 Our directions last month under this head will equally ap- 
 ply now. The Chinese roses and geraniums that are now 
 coming plentifully into flower should be kept near the light, 
 and in airy exposures, to brighten their colours, otherwise 
 they will be very pale and sickly. 
 
 BRINGING PLANTS OUT OP THE CELLAR, ETC. 
 
 All or most of the plants that have been in the cellar 
 during winter, such as Pomegranates, Lagerstroiniias, Hy- 
 drangeas, Oleanders, Sweet-hay, &c., may be brought out to 
 the open air at any time about the middle of the month. If 
 any of them stand in need of larger pots or tubs, have them 
 turned out,~the balls reduced, and put them in others a little 
 larger; or, where convenient, they may be planted in the 
 ground. Be sure to keep the Hydrangeas in shady situa- 
 tions. It will not be advisable to expose entirely the orange 
 and lemon trees until the end of this or first of next month. 
 Where there is any scab or foulness of any kind collected 
 
MaifJ] ROOxMS — OBSERVATIONS. 29** 
 
 on the foliage or wood, have it cleaued directly before the 
 heat increases the one, and to get clear of the disagreeable 
 appearance of the other. 
 
 MAY. 
 
 All the plants will be able to withstand exposure, in the 
 general state of the seasons, about the tenth of the month. 
 Begin about the first to take out the hardiest, such as Lau- 
 resiinus, Hydrangeas, Hoses, Primroses, Polyanthus, &c., and 
 thus allow the others to stand more free and become hardened 
 to exposure. The reason that plants are so often seen brown, 
 stunted, and almost half dead during summer, is from the 
 exposed situation they are placed in, with the direct sun upon 
 them, and too frequently from being so sparingly watered. 
 There are no shrubby plants cultivated in pots that are bene- 
 fited by full exposure to the hot sun from this period to Sep- 
 tember. A northeastern aspect is the best for every plant 
 except Cactus, Aloe, Mesemhryanthemum, and such as go 
 under the name of succulents, which may be fully exposed to 
 the sun, but not to long and continued rains. Where there 
 are only a few plants, they should be conveniently placed, to 
 allow water from a pot with a rose mouth to be poured fre- 
 quently over them, which is the best substitute for the syringe. 
 Daphne, Goronilla, Fuchsia, Camellia, Primrose, and Poly- 
 anthus, do not agree with bright sun through the summer. 
 There has been a general question what is the cause of the 
 death of so many of the Daphne odora. It may be observed 
 that the first place that shows symptoms of decay is at the 
 surface of the soil, and this takes place a few weeks before 
 there are evident effects of it. The cause is from the effect of 
 beat or sun and water, acting on the stem at least. If the 
 soil is drawn in the form of a cone round the stem, to throw 
 off the water to the edges of the pot, that the stem may be dry 
 above the roots, mortification does not take place, neither do 
 they die prematurely when thus treated. For further remarks, 
 Bee Green-house this month. 
 
300 ROOMS — REPOTTING. [June, J%ily. 
 
 CAPE BULBS. 
 
 Any of these that are done flowering, such as Ixia, Oxalis, 
 Lachencdia, &c., as soon as the foliage begins to decay, tvirn 
 the pots on their sides, which will ripen the roots, and, when 
 perfectly dry, clear them from the soil, wrap them up in paper, 
 with their names attached, and put them carefully aside until 
 the time of planting. 
 
 REPOTTING. 
 
 Where it is required, repot Cactus, Aloe, Mesemhryanthe- 
 mums, and all other succulents, with any of the Amaryllis 
 that are required to be kept in pots ; also. Cape Jasmines. For 
 description of the above, see Hot-house and Green-house of 
 this month, under the same head. 
 
 JUNE AND JULY. 
 
 The only attention requisite to these plants is in giving 
 water, keeping them from being much exposed to either sun 
 or high winds, and preventing the attack of insects. Water 
 must be regularly given every evening, when there has not 
 been rain during the day. Where they are in a growing 
 state, they are not liable at this season of the year to sufter 
 from too much water, except in a few instances, such as the 
 Lemon-scented Geranium, and those kinds that are tuberous- 
 rooted, as Arclens, Bicdlor, TrisiUm, &c., which should have 
 moderate supplies. 
 
 All the plants ought to be turned round every few weeks 
 to prevent them from growing to one side, by the one being 
 more dark than the other, and keep those of a straggling 
 growth tied neatly to rods. Wherever insects of any descrip- 
 tion appear, wash them off directly. Give regular syringings 
 or sprinkling's from the rose of a watering-pot. Be particularly 
 
AugUSt.'l ROOMS — OBSERVATIONS. 301 
 
 attentive in this respect to the Camillias, which will keep the 
 foliage in a healthy state. 
 
 If the foliage of LiUum longijibrum, or Japonicuvi, has 
 decayed, do not water them while dormant, as they are easilj 
 injured by such treatment. 
 
 AUGUST. 
 
 For the kinds of plants that require' potting, we refer to 
 the Green-house for this month. All that are therein specified 
 are peculiarly adapted for rooms, and we would call attention 
 to the genus Cyclamen, which has not been generally intro- 
 duced into the collections of our ladies ; as, from the character 
 and beauty of the flowers, they are very attracting and highly 
 deserving of culture. Attend to the Geraniums as there 
 directed, and be particular in having them cut down and 
 repotted, as there fully described. The Oranges, Lemons, 
 Oleanders, and Myrtles that are kept in cellars or rooms, 
 should have the same attention in this month as directed in 
 the green-house, which to repeat here would be occupying 
 space unnecessarily. 
 
 Reseda odorata, or Mignonette, is one of the most fragrant 
 annuals. To have it in .perfection during winter, the seed 
 should be sown about the end of this month, or the beginning 
 of next, into pots of fine light earth, and sprinkled with water 
 frequently. When it comes up, the plants must be thinned 
 out or transplanted : the former method is preferable. Keep 
 them from frost during winter, and always near the light. 
 
 This will equally apply to the green-house. 
 
 Cape bulbs, such as Sparaxis, Ixia, Oxalis, and LacJie- 
 nalia, should now be planted. For method and sorts, -see 
 Green-house in August and September. 
 
 26 
 
302 ROOMS — GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. [^September 
 
 SEPTEMBER. 
 
 Where there is a quantity of plants to be kept in these 
 apartments, they should be disposed of to the best effect, and, 
 at the same time, in such a manner as will be most effectual 
 to their preservation. A stage of some description is better 
 than a table, and, of whatever shape or form, it ought to be 
 on castors, that it may, in severe nights of frost, be drawn fo 
 the centre of the room. The shape may be either concave, a 
 half circle, or one square side. The bottom step or table 
 should be six inches wide and five inches deep, keeping each 
 successive step one inch farther apart, to the desired height, 
 which may be about six feet. Allowing the first step to be 
 about two feet from the floor, there will be five or six steps, 
 which will hold about fifty pots of a common size. A stage 
 in the form of half a circle will hold more, look the hand- 
 somest, and be most convenient. We have seen them circular, 
 and, when filled, appeared like a pyramid. These do very 
 well, but they must be turned every day, or the plants will 
 not grow regularly. With this attention, it is decidedly the 
 best. Green is the most suitable colour to paint them. 
 
 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 The directions given for the green-house this month are 
 equally applicable here. The late blooming ChrysantJicmums 
 are particularly adapted for rooms, the colours are so varied : 
 and many of them are dwarf-growing, and even neat in their 
 habit, especially the new hybrid sorts. 
 
 OCTOBER. 
 
 Have a stage or stages, as described last month, in the 
 situations where they are intended to remain all winter; 
 place the plants on them from the first to the eighth of this 
 
October.'] ROOMS — OF BULBOUS ROOTS. 303 
 
 month, beginning with the tallest on the top, graduating to 
 the bottom. It is desirable to place flats or saucers under 
 each to prevent the water from falling to the floor, and the 
 water should be emptied from the flats of all except those of 
 Cdlla and Hydrangea. The latter while dormant should be 
 kept only a little moist. 
 
 Previous to taking in the plants, they should be divested 
 of every decayed leaf, insects, and all contracted dust, having 
 their shoots neatly tied up, and every one in correct order. 
 Every leaf of the Camellias ought to be sponged, and the 
 plants placed in an airy exposure, and from this period till 
 they begin to grow have them exposed to the sun. If the 
 flower-buds are too crowded, picking ofi" the weakest will 
 preserve the remainder in greater perfection, and prevent 
 them in part from falling ofi". Do not on any occasion keep 
 them in a room where there is much fluctuating fire heat, as 
 the fiower-buds will not expand, except they are kept in an 
 even temperature. See Green-house, this month, more largely 
 on this subject. 
 
 OF BULBOUS ROOTS. 
 
 Those that are intended to flower in glasses should be 
 placed therein this month, and kept in a cool room. After 
 the fibres begin to push a few shoots, the glasses may be 
 taken to the warmest apartments to cause them to flower 
 early. Bring a few from the coldest to the warmest every 
 two weeks, and thus a succession of bloom may be kept up 
 from January to March. Hyacinths and other Dutch bulbs 
 should now be planted in pots. See Green-house for full di- 
 rections. 
 
 Cape Bulbs. — All that are unplanted and off"ering to grow 
 should be put in pots forthwith. Ample directions are given 
 for the planting of these in the two preceding months. 
 
 Repot Riibus rosce/olius, or Bramble-rose. They should 
 have pots one size larger than those they are now in. To 
 make them flower profusely, when done blooming in May, 
 divide them and put only a few stems in one pot, and repot 
 them in this month, as above directed. 
 
304 ROOMS — GENERAL OBSERVATIONS [November. 
 
 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 Any herbaceous plants in the collection ought to be set 
 aside, and the water in part withheld. When the stems and 
 foliage are decayed, the plants may be put in a cool cellar, 
 where they will not be in danger of frost, and be permitted to 
 remain there until they begin to grow ; then bring them to 
 the light, and treat as directed for these kinds of plants. 
 Deciduous clants may be treated in a similar manner. 
 
 NOVEMBER. 
 
 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 The remarks and instructions that are given last month for 
 these aparlmbnts will equally answer here. Where the Dutca 
 bulbs were omitted to be placed in glasses, they ought not to 
 be longer delayed. 
 
 Oxalis. — The autumn-flowering species will now be in 
 bloom, and must be kept in the sun to make them expand 
 freely. The neglect of this is the principal reason that these 
 do not flower perfectly in rooms. 
 
 Camellias. — These plants, where there is a collection^, 
 flower from this period till April ; and the general desire to 
 be fully aT(|uainted with the method of their culture has in- 
 duced us to be liberal in our observations on every point and 
 period through the various stages of their growth and flower- 
 ing. We will here only remind the inquirer that a pure air 
 and plenty of water, giving the plants frequent sprinklings, 
 are the present necessities, which only are conducive to their 
 perfection. 
 
 Attend to the turning of Geraniums and other rapidly 
 growing plants, that all sides of them may have an equal 
 share of light. 
 
December.} ROOMS. 305 
 
 DECEMBER. 
 
 As the trying season is now approaching for all plants that 
 are kept in roDnis, especially those that are desired to have a 
 flourishing aspect through the winter, a few general instruc- 
 tions (although they may have been previously advanced) 
 will perhaps be desirable to all those who are engaged in this 
 interesting occupation, which forms a luxury through the 
 retired hours of a winter season, and with very little attention 
 many are the beauties of vegetative nature that will be 
 developed to the gratification of every reflecting mind. The 
 following is a routine of every -day culture : — 
 
 Do not at any time admit air (except for a few moments) 
 while the thermometer is below 35°, exposed in the shade. 
 
 In time of very severe frosts the plants ought to be with- 
 drawn from the window to the centre of the room during 
 night. 
 
 Never give water until the soil in the pots is inclining to 
 become dry, except for Hyacinths and other Dutch bulbs 
 that are in a growing state, which must be liberally sup- 
 plied. 
 
 Destroy all insects as soon as they appear : for the means 
 of destruction, see next month. 
 
 Give a little air every favourable opportunity (that is, when 
 the thermometer is above 35°, exposed in the shade), by 
 putting up the window one, two, or three inches, according to 
 the state of the weather. 
 
 Clean the foliage with sponge and water frequently, to 
 remove all dust, &c. The water thus used must not exceed 
 80°, but 60° is preferable. 
 
 Turn the plants frequently to prevent them growing to one 
 side. 
 
 Eoses of the daily sort may be obtained early by having 
 them in a warm room that has a south window, and as soon 
 as they begin to grow admit air in small portions about noon 
 every day that the sun has any eflPect. Such must be well 
 supplied with water. 
 
 Bulbs in glasses must be supplied with fresh water at least 
 >>nce a week, in which period tiey will inhale all the nutri- 
 26* 
 
306 ROOMS — CAMELLIAS. [December. 
 
 tive gas that they derive from that element, if they are in a 
 growing state. 
 
 Camellias, when in bud and flower, should never be 
 allowed to become the least dry, neither confined from fresh 
 air. The eflFects would be that the buds would become stint- 
 ed, dry, and drop oflf. Therefore, to have these in perfec- 
 tion, attend strictly to watering. Give frequent airings, and 
 wash the leaves occasionally with water. Never keep them 
 in a room where there is a strong coal fire. The most of 
 Camellias will bear 3° of frost without the smallest injury, 
 so that they are easier kept than Geraniums^ except when 
 they are in bloom. In that state frost will destroy the 
 flowers. The air of a close cellar is also destructive to the 
 buds. 
 
 The reason that the Camellia does not bloom perfectly in 
 parlours or other heated rooms is owing to their being too 
 warm and arid, destroying the vital vegetative principle of 
 the plant, and it soon perishes. There is one way in which 
 these plants can be kept perfect even in such dry places when 
 the recess in the windows is of sufficient depth as to allow 
 plants to stand within it, enclosing them from the apartment 
 by another sash : in such a situation, water could be placed, 
 which would keep the atmosphere between the windows per- 
 fectly moist. The verdure would be rich and the flowers 
 brilliant ; and they would be completely protected from dust 
 — the whole would have a very pleasing effect. Attention 
 will be requisite to give them air during the mild part of the 
 day. There are several Camellias not proper for room cul- 
 ture; those which have dry brown scaly buds are to be 
 avoided, such as anemoneflora, egertonia, cleviana, fulgens, 
 atroruhens ; also avoid woodsii, cliandlerii and dorsetia, 
 as being difficult of expanding — they are so very full 
 of petals. Those most proper for room culture are double 
 white, eclipse, fanhriata, ivibricata, malijlora, pceonifiora, 
 Landrethii, Sacco, Sarah Frost, Washington, Madonna 
 punctata, speciosa, variegata and incarnata. Such will be 
 found to bloom freely and fully : many others might be added, 
 but these will give an idea of those sorts that agree best with 
 room culture. We cannot conclude our subject without 
 giving our readers some hints on the effect of plants in 
 household apartments. It has been proved that the leaves 
 of plants abforb carbonic acid gas by their upper surfaces, 
 
December J ROOMS — camellias. 307 
 
 and give out oxygen by their under ones, thereby tending to 
 purify the air, in as far as animal life is concerned, because 
 carbonic acid gas is pernicious to animals, and oxygen is what 
 that life requires. It is in the light, however, that these 
 operations are carried on, for in the dark, plants give out car- 
 bonic. It does not appear that any of the scentless products 
 given out by plants are injurious to human beings, because 
 those who live among accumulated plants are not less healthy 
 than others, but rather enjoy more uninterrupted health, which, 
 of itself, is a sufficient recommendation for all to spend their 
 leisure moments in so healthful and rational an employment. 
 
THE 
 
 AMERICAN FLOWER-GARDEN 
 DIRECTORY. 
 
 ON THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 
 
 We are not aware of any vegetable production that is mora 
 conducive to the luxurious gratifications and pleasures of man 
 than the vine. In fact, there is no fruit so delicious, appli- 
 cable to so many purposes, nor any that is so agreeable to all 
 palates : from the remotest ages the vine has been celebrated 
 as the emblem of plenty and the ''symbol of happiness." 
 Its quickness of growth, its great fertility, and astonishing 
 vegetative powers, with its unknown age, has rendered it one 
 of the most fruitful blessings bestowed by Providence ; a 
 blessing which almost every inhabitant of this Union may 
 enjoy, and we see no occasion to doubt but that thousands of 
 acres of our fertile uplands will be converted into vineyards, 
 producing the finest fruits and richest wines in the world. In- 
 deed, with very little care and attention, our unsightly post 
 and rail fences may be converted into grape espaliers, and fine 
 wines produced at as little cost as spruce beer; every square 
 foot of surface might be made to produce a pound of grapes, 
 and every post, at least, round our gardens afford ample space 
 for one vine, which would yearly produce from three to nine 
 pounds of fruit, fit either for the table or the wine-press. 
 But the small space allotted in this volume will not allow us 
 to dilate on this fruitful subject. Our object is to give a few 
 26 * (309) 
 
310 ON SOIL. 
 
 hints on the aspect, soil, propagation, and culture of the vine, 
 BO as to produce an extra crop in the smallest given space. 
 We will then consider, first, the 
 
 ASPECT. 
 
 As our climate gives us plenty of heat for the maturation 
 of the vine, we have, therefore, more scope in aspect than any 
 other country. However, the most preferable is one from 
 south to east, or west. Shelter from high and often-recurring 
 winds is a prime consideration. Our western and southwestern 
 gusts of wind are very destructive to the vine when it is in 
 the full vigour of growth ; it dissipates all the accumulated 
 secretions of the foliage, and closes its pores, thereby totally 
 deranging the vital functions of the plant, which (although in 
 the height of the growing season) has been known to be sus- 
 pended for weeks. There are frequently many local circum- 
 stances aflFecting the shelter of walls and other buildings, 
 which, where they exist, must determine the best aspect for 
 training the vine. But if there be no such local circumstances, 
 we have no hesitation in stating that an eastern aspect is the 
 best. On such the sun shines with full force during the 
 morning, at which time there is something highly favourable 
 to vegetation in his rays, which seems to stimulate the ener- 
 gies of plants in an extraordinary degree, and to excite them 
 to a vigorous exertion of all the functions appertaining to 
 vegetable life. 
 
 ON SOIL. 
 
 The soil most congenial to the growth of the vine and the 
 maturity of its fruit is a rich, sandy, turfy loam about two 
 feet deep, on a dry, gravelly, rocky, or sandy bottom ; the 
 roots run with avidity into such sub-soils, lying secure from 
 the excess of moisture, which always accumulates in clayey 
 or compact soils. The excrementitious matter discharged 
 from the roots of a vine is very great, and if this be given 
 out in close and retentive soils, they c^uickly become delete- 
 rious, and a languid and diseased vegetation ensues ; this ia 
 the great reason that so many failures exist. It may hence be 
 
ON SOIL. 811 
 
 inferred that vines will not tlirive in a cold wet soil, nor 
 composed of stiff clay, which is easily accounted for from 
 the fact that they delight only in soils easily rendered dry 
 by evaporation, and free from excess of moisture, and are 
 always more warm, which is so genial to the growth of this 
 plant. To elucidate this, we can record an instance that 
 occurred a few years ago in this vicinity : A vine border 
 was dug out to the depth of three feet and a half, in a cold 
 retentive clay soil; twenty inches of stone, brick, and lime- 
 rubbish were put in the bottom, and the remainder filled 
 up with good compost for the vines, in which they were 
 planted, and grew well for two years, and produced some 
 fruit; finally, they languished, and almost died, and it was 
 at once pronounced that fine foreign grapes would not do in 
 this country. But, on examining the roots of the plants, 
 it was discovered that they were rotten from the excess of 
 moisture which was retained in this pit; for though it had 
 been partially filled with a dry bottom, no provision was 
 made to carry off the water, therefore it proved to be a com- 
 plete water-pail : a drain was necessarily dug to the full 
 depth to carry off the water, and the soil generally renewed ; 
 the vines were cut to within two feet of the ground ; they 
 now (four years after the operation) grow luxuriantly, and 
 produce abundant crops every year. Therefore, if the sub- 
 soil is not naturally dry, it must be made so by draining, 
 which is the basis of the work, filling up the bottom with a 
 sufficient quantity of dry materials, such as stones broken 
 moderately small, brickbats, lumps of lime-rubbish, oyster- 
 shells, &c., which will keep them dry and warm by the free 
 admission of air and solar heat, and to admit of heavy rains 
 passing quickly through without being retained sufficiently 
 long to saturate the roots or injure the tender extremities ; 
 having thus furnished a dry bottom, cover to the desired 
 height with turf taken about three inches deep from a rich 
 pasture ; and to every four loads of turf add one load of 
 thoroughly decomposed manure, at least one year old, inter- 
 spersing it with bones of any description, oyster-shells, or 
 any other enriching material that undergoes slow decomposi- 
 tion : the whole must be repeatedly turned, and allowed to 
 settle before the vines are planted. Extreme caution has to 
 be exercised in administering bone-dust, slaughter-house offal, 
 and other over-rich manures, especially if the vines are to be 
 
312 ON SOIL. 
 
 planted the same or even the following season. Soils glutted 
 with instant enriching manures are destructive to the vine. 
 The surfece of the border should have a gentle descent from 
 the wall or fence : never crop your vine borders, and be 
 careful of treading much upon them ; a board trellis should 
 be laid for walking upon when the operation of pruning, 
 tying, &c., takes place, which is almost daily during summer. 
 The border, after it has been once made, ought never to be 
 stirred, except at intervals, to keep it from becoming hard 
 and impervious to heat or moisture ; and, when necessary, it 
 should only be forked up about two inches deep, at all times 
 taking care not to injure the roots. 
 
 In dry sandy soils all that is wanted for the full perfection 
 of the grape is to take out about one foot of the poorest of 
 the ground, and replace it by turf from a meadow, adding 
 thereto a portion of well-decomposed manure. Sweepings 
 from turnpike roads, where there is much travel, is an ex- 
 cellent article for incorporating with such soils ; it is of an 
 enriching quality, its component parts consisting chiefly of 
 sand, pulverized stones, dung, and urine, which is of a more 
 lasting nature than can be found in almost any other com- 
 post ; it ought to be thoroughly incorporated with the 'other 
 soil soon after it has been collected from the road, as all its 
 valuable qualities will then be entirely preserved. The fore- 
 going remarks in the preparation of soil, if followed, will 
 insure the luxuriant growth of vines and the yearly produc- 
 tion of fine crops of grapes, and, when circumstances will 
 permit, should be practically adopted at all times. But it 
 must not be supposed that vines will not grow and mature 
 fine crops unless thus encouraged in extra prepared soils. 
 Such is not the fact, for vines will do well in any soil that 
 is not adhesive and has a dry bottom ; but they grow finer, 
 and bear greater crops of fruit within a given space of time, 
 when planted in ground that has been properly prepared for 
 their reception. For instance, if two cuttings be planted, 
 the one in a soil fully prepared, and the other in that of the 
 tatter description, it will be found at the end of three years 
 that the vine in the former soil is double the size of the 
 latter ; consequently, the strong vine will produce two-thirds 
 more fruit, and of a better quality, than the weak vine. 
 This diflference occurring every year, and even greater as 
 the age increases, is sufiicient to amply repay for all the 
 
ON THE PROPAGATION OF VINES. 313 
 
 trouble and expense incurred in making a suitable compost. 
 However, the disadvantage of a poor soil may in part be com- 
 pensated for by planting the vines closer together. If, indeed, 
 vines could not be planted with any prospect of success, except 
 in borders purposely prepared, only a very small quantity of 
 grapes would be grown, compared with what this rich and 
 fertile country is capable of producing. 
 
 Many instances occur in towns and cities, around dwellings 
 and other descriptions of brick and stone erections, which pre- 
 sent very favourable situations for the training of vines, but 
 which, nevertheless, are so situated as to admit of little or no 
 soil being placed at their roots. In such cases, if an opening 
 can be made, twenty inches deep, and as many wide, it will 
 be sufficient to admit of the roots of a young vine, which will 
 support it till its rambling roots have found their way under 
 the pavement, or along the walls to some more distant nourish- 
 ment; if a wider space can be made, it will, of course, be 
 better : loosen the sides and bottom as much as possible, and 
 fill up with compost, as previously directed, and therein plant 
 the vine. The surface covering, whether of brick or stone, 
 may be replaced after the soil has fully settled, leaving a hole 
 about six inches square to allow the stem of the plant to swell 
 in its future growth. The roots soon find their way under 
 the paving or along the foundation walls, and, indeed, in every 
 direction, in search after food, and will extract nourishment 
 from sources apparently barren. The fact is, that the roots 
 of the vine possess an astonishing power of adapting them- 
 selves to any situation in which they may be planted, pro- 
 vided it be a dry one. 
 
 ON THE PROPAGATION OF VINES. 
 
 Vines are generally propagated in the open ground by 
 cuttings and layers. 
 
 By cuttings. At the general prunings, provide cuttings of 
 the preceding summer's growth ; choose such as are of a 
 medium size, well-ripened, and short-jointed, cut them into 
 lengths of about eighteen inches each, leaving at the ends 
 not less than two inches of wood to protect the eye ; place 
 these temporary cuttings about three-fourths of their length 
 27 
 
314 ON THE PROPAGATION OF VINES. 
 
 in the ground, in a warm and sheltered situation, where thej 
 can be protected with a little litter from the severity of frost 
 during winter. The best time for planting them is about the 
 25th of March in this latitude, earlier or later if more south 
 or north : if intended to plant the cutting where the plant is 
 to remain, which is the most preferable method, prepare them 
 in the following manner : 
 
 By cutting them into lengths of tree-buds each, and letting 
 the uppermost bud have an inch of blank wood remaining 
 to protect it, the extremity of which must be cut in a slant- 
 ing manner, and the slanting side opposite to the buds, to 
 throw off the moisture : the end that is to be inserted in the 
 ground cut transversely just under the bud, and the cutting 
 will be complete : the cuttings being thus prepared, plant 
 them forthwith; if intended to remain, place two in each 
 space, inserting them in the ground so as the second eye may 
 be about half an inch under the soil, which must be pressed 
 close, when it v^ill, most frequently, be found that the eye 
 thus placed will grow first and strongest, when the upper 
 eye can be displaced ; if both the cuttings grow cut off the 
 weakest. During May, June, and July, care must be taken 
 to keep the cuttings constantly moist ; soap-suds or drainings 
 of the dung-hill can be used for the purpose once a week, 
 but not oftener, using rain or river water for general water- 
 ings. If the soil should sink down, and leave the buds 
 higher than above-mentioned, more must be added to keep 
 them as directed. To prevent the ground from becoming 
 hard by repeated waterings, and also to retain a regular 
 moisture about the cutting, cover the soil with shells, litter, 
 or any such substitute, which will greatly promote the vege- 
 tating powers of the scion. As soon as they have made 
 shoots six inches long, water may be more sparingly applied, 
 and the shoots must be carefully tied to some support, and 
 their tendrils and lateral shoots should be cut off, the latter 
 to within one eye of the main stem : about the first of No- 
 vember, cut every plant down to within two eyes of the 
 cutting. But if the plants are intended to be removed, 
 they should be planted in such a situation as to be shaded 
 from the mid-day sun ; from four to six hours a day of sun 
 is quite sufficient. A spot sheltered from severe winds is also 
 most desirable. When transplanted, be careful of their small 
 
ON THE PROPAGATION OF VINES. 315 
 
 roots, and choose a mild day (about the first of April, or 
 earlier, is a good season), for the operation. 
 
 By layers. This is a very expeditious mode of growiug 
 young vines, provided the shoots be laid in pots; but vines 
 raised from shoots laid down in the open ground should be 
 avoided as the worst of all plants : they make but few roots, 
 and, when removed, these nearly all die off from being cut 
 at the extremities in lifting, and the second year of such a 
 plant is not much in advance of a good cutting. To grow 
 vines by laying the shoots in pots, the following directions, 
 if followed, will insure success : For each intended layer 
 procure a seven-inch pot, or a small box of a similar, or even 
 larger size ; prepare some fine rich sandy mould, containing 
 a great portion of decayed leaves, then take the shoot and 
 run it through the hole in the bottom of the pot till you 
 come to the last three buds; close up the aperture round 
 the shoot with moss, cotton, or any elastic substance, and 
 then fill up the pot or box to within half an inch of the top 
 ■with the prepared soil, having previously secured it in a safe 
 and level position : and, where it can be conveniently wa- 
 tered during the season ; this must be attended to at least 
 once a day.- When there is not time for this attendance, the 
 pot or box should be plunged under gi-ound, and the layer 
 placed thereon, and firmly secured, so that its own force will 
 not raise it up; then cover up the shoots at least three inches, 
 leaving space for occasionally holding some liquid nourish- 
 ment. Shoots may be thus laid any time from the first of 
 March to the first of April. It must be clearly understood 
 that the success of the operation depends entirely on keeping 
 the mould in the pots moist, treating it as directed for water- 
 ing-cuttings. The plant may be separated from the vine about 
 the first of September, and instantly planted into its desired 
 locality, or put into a larger vessel, and there remain till 
 planting season ; the following year displace the tendrils and 
 laterals as directed for cuttings, and in pruning cut it down 
 to within three eyes of the ground. We may safely assert 
 that it is a species of strangling to a vine in the first three 
 years of its growth to be sparing of the knife, allowing, at 
 once, small weak shoots to be laid in to form in a day (com- 
 paratively) a plant that is expected to withstand the vicissi- 
 tude of ages, and produce yearly its quantum of fruit ; but 
 more of this when treating of pruning. 
 
816 ERECTIONS, ETC. 
 
 By eyes. This is our most favourite method of propagating 
 plants of this most valuable fruit. Early in the month of 
 March we cut the shoots into eyes, leaving about an inch of 
 ■wood on each extremity, and plant those with their eyes up- 
 permost into pots, and place them in a hot or cold frame, pre- 
 pared for the purpose ; plants from a single eye may easily be 
 made to grow twelve feet in one season, by constant repotting 
 and nourishing. The plants thus growing are decidedly the 
 best rooted, forming more capillary fibres; consequently more 
 nutritious support to the vine is absorbed in the same given 
 period of time ; they also form shorter joints, and are capable 
 of producing more fruit on a plant of the same size. We 
 are aware that some start at this idea, and say that in a few 
 years it is not observed. It reminds us very much of the son 
 of the " Isle of the Ocean," when asked how old his brother 
 was, replied he was so much, but in two years he would be 
 '' the same age." Nevertheless, this method of propagating 
 may not be generally accessible, the former two plans being 
 at the command of every one. 
 
 ON ERECTIONS FOR THE SUPPORT AND PROTECTION OP 
 THE VINE IN OUT-DOOR CULTURE. 
 
 To limit the proper height for training grapes would be a 
 preposterous idea, for they can be perfectly cultivated in this 
 country on any height from four to forty feet : indeed, on a 
 wall of the former, we have thirty sorts of grapes growing 
 luxuriantly, and fruiting in the most profuse manner. Some 
 of the vines, four years old, which have produced from six to 
 nine bunches of fine fruit, which only occupy, after pruning, 
 a space of about eighteen inches square. 
 
 Walh of brick are decidedly the most preferable for the 
 perfection of the grape ; and if they be built for the express 
 purpose, the most judicious distribution of materials would 
 be in the erection of several low walls, not more than seven 
 feet high. For the purpose of pruning, training, &c., walla 
 of this height are far preferable to those of a greater; and if 
 built to run directly south or north, the entire surface of 
 both sides may be judiciously covered. The eastern aspect 
 would render a sure and abundant early crop; those on the 
 western side would not be so productive, and more liable to 
 
ERECTIONS, ETC. 31/ 
 
 bo aflFected by :ur frequent severe westerly gales. When in 
 bloom, or wlieF. the fruit is ripening, would be the period 
 that they would be most liable to suffer. However, as they 
 would frequently produce a full crop, an astonishing quantity 
 of fruit may be produced on a very small space of ground 
 by erecting walls of this description, built parallel to, and 
 not far distant from, each other — say, at the nearest, from 
 twenty to twenty-five feet. If from local causes bricks can- 
 not be had, a good substitute will be found in strong ranges 
 of plank fencing made of well-seasoned wood, and closely 
 jointed, having three or four gooa coats of oil paint. Grapes 
 raised in this way will be nowise inferior to those produced 
 on walls : indeed, we would prefer such to any wall of stone 
 that could be erected, it being of a more even surface and 
 more convenient for training, and not giving harbour for in- 
 Bects, &c. A very great advantage will be derived by having 
 a coping on the wall or fence, projecting eight or ten inches, 
 turning on a pivot, so as it can be used in time of heavy 
 dashing rains while the vines are in bloom, or when the fruit 
 is ripening, which are the only periods that it will be of ac- 
 tual service, for all dews and light rains are indispensable to 
 the health and maturity of the vine ; and if the fence is 
 north and south, the light and heat excluded by it would be 
 a serious drawback on the ripening of the fruit. We say, 
 therefore, if it is not on a pivot, the plants will be better 
 without it, unless it have only one or two inches of a pro- 
 jection, the dripping from the coping will fall on the foliage, 
 and that will carry it entirely free from ' the fruit ; but we 
 urge the great utility and even necessity for movable coping. 
 Espaliers or trellises are in common use for the training of 
 the vine, also arbours ; the former suit admirably in small 
 gardens where it is not desirable to go to expense, but the 
 latter should be avoided as the worst possible construction 
 for growing grapes; the interior is always filled with a cur- 
 rent of cold air highly prejudicial to the maturity of fine 
 fruits; but for coarse grapes it is a matter of little conse- 
 quence, as they are at best only fit for producing shade. Up- 
 right trellises in city gardens may be made eight feet high, 
 with the spars not more than six inches apart; and these 
 should be made of the very best materials, and supported 
 every three feet by uprights. Strong wire makes an elegant 
 substitute for the cross slats, which if kept well painted, 
 27* 
 
318 ON TRANSPLANTING THE VINE. 
 
 will not suffer by corrosion. We have seen an elegant new 
 erection by a tasteful grape amateur, and think it will answer 
 a very good purpose; it consists of an upright double trellis, 
 about one foot wide at the bottom, tapering to one bar at the 
 top, running north and south, which is about eight feet high ; 
 from which, on each side, there is fixed a small projecting 
 sash, at an angle of about 48°, which keeps the vines per- 
 fectly secure from deluging rains, and even concentrates more 
 solar heat for their maturity. The whole has a light and ra- 
 ther imposing effect ; its practical utility remains to be tried, 
 as it is but lately finished ; there is no apparent doubt but it 
 will prove very beneficial in its results. 
 
 ON TRANSPLANTING THE VINE. 
 
 The best period of the year for transplanting is during the 
 months of October or March. The longer its removal is 
 postponed after these periods the more injurious will be the 
 effects of transplanting. Admitting the ground has been pre- 
 pared according to directions formerly given, dig a hole about 
 twenty inches deep, and as wide as will admit of the root.^, 
 if possible, to their full extension, without crippling in any 
 manner. If any of them are injured in lifting, they must be 
 cut back to soundness ; fill up the hole to within twelve 
 inches of the top, set the vine in the hole thus made, with 
 its stem about six inches from the wall or fence, and let the 
 plant be cut even with the ground; or, where there is plenty 
 of space, and the plant two or more feet long, plant the root 
 at a distance from where the stem of the vine is desired, and 
 then disbud the young shoot, except the uppermost three; lay 
 it down its full length, bringing the terminal buds to where 
 the plant is wanted ; by this method the whole extent of the 
 shoot will make roots, and be of infinite service for the far- 
 ther growth and support of the plant. When the eyes thus 
 left grow, displace the weakest two, leaving the strongest for 
 the permanent plants. We have seen old vines laid down in 
 this manner for the distance of thirty feet, and, in two years, 
 formed plants of the most astonishing vigour and production. 
 If the vine has been grown in a pot, shake the ball of earth 
 from the roots among which place, with care, new and fresh 
 6oil, taking thr plant aod giving it several shakes to settle it 
 
ON PRUNING. 319 
 
 well about the roots, which will encourage the plant to put 
 forth new roots for its farther support. Transplanting should 
 always be done in dry and mild weather, and when the soil 
 is mellow and free. During the removal the roots must be 
 carefully kept from exposure; the atmosphere would dry up 
 their tender extremities, and cause much injury; and, when 
 vines are brought from a distance, this precaution ought to be 
 carefully put in practice. Its first season's growth should be 
 confined to one stem only, carefully cutting off all lateral shoots 
 within one eye of the main shoot, as directed on the subject 
 of propagation. 
 
 ON PRUNING. 
 
 The first year's growth of a transplanted vine should, in 
 November, be cut down within four inches of the ground, and, 
 on the appearance, cover the plant with about three inches of 
 stable litter, allowing it to remain in this state till the middle 
 of March. The plant will now push strongly, and two of the 
 best shoots should be trained their full length during summer, 
 carefully nipping off tendrils and laterals, and at all times, 
 securing the shoots from the effects of high winds. If walls 
 are used for training, there should be slats fixed about one 
 inch from the wall, to tie the shoots thereto, using soft mate- 
 rial for the purpose of tying; if the vines should show fruit, 
 cut it off. 
 
 Having the previous season retained two well-grown shoots 
 from near the surface of the ground, you will now, in Novem- 
 ber, tie these in a horizontal position, about six or eight 
 inches above the surface, cutting them at nearly two feet dis- 
 tance from the main stem. In the following month, February, 
 when the weather is mild, displace every alternate bud, ob- 
 serving that it is those on the under side of the shoot. If 
 everything has been attended to in soil, planting, and pruning 
 that we have advanced, there may be expected to arise four 
 shoots from each of these horizontal branches, which, if any 
 show fruit, it must be cut off; these young shoots must be 
 trained upright during summer, being careful to displace every 
 other as they appear. Some approve of training these young 
 upright shoots in a serpentine form, which, in our opinion at 
 present, i« of little consequence ; but top them about the end 
 
320 ON PRUNING. 
 
 of August, or earlier, if they are to the desired height. In 
 November of the third summer's growth, you may now prune 
 for fruit as above stated. Your horizontal branches will have 
 fully matured four luxuriant upright shoots. Cut two of 
 these alternately within one eye of the horizontal shoot, 
 which will produce wood to be fruited the following year, and 
 lay in the other two, in a serpentine form for fruit, to about 
 three feet in length. The vine has now assumed the form 
 in which it is permanently to remain, and it may be con- 
 sidered as the foundation of a system of alternately fruiting 
 four shoots, and training four out their full length every year, 
 which method may be continued every year without any 
 alteration. After several years, if it is thought proper, the 
 arms may be lengthened by the training in of a shoot at 
 their extremities, and managing it in the same manner as 
 when the arms were first formed ; but it is not advisable that 
 the branches should be far extended, which would ultimately 
 prove injurious to those branches arising from the bosom of 
 the vine. This system of pruning and training the vine we 
 do not advocate as something neio or original, but one which 
 we have seen in full and successful practice twenty years ago. 
 By procuring well-grown plants in pots, one year may bo 
 gained on the above calculation ; for you can prune, and at 
 once take two shoots to prepare for laying the foundation of 
 your future plant; but more than this cannot be accomplished. 
 We are aware that many of our readers are already startled 
 at this tedious method of fruiting vines, and have almost con 
 eluded to have fruit the Jirsi year or none. Such are too 
 frequently the conclusions of many ; but, as sure as they 
 practise it, they as invariably meet with a failure, and that 
 in a very few years. The practice of training vines to get 
 them up to the top of arbours, &c., cannot be done with fine 
 vines without risk. As we have already said, it may and will 
 do with our native kinds, but no other. The general system 
 of spur-pruning has many advantages in in-door culture, but 
 does not at all agree with growing grapes in the open air. 
 Our limits do not admit of giving in detail our reasons for so 
 saying, but those who doubt may go on in the old way, giving 
 the system herein advised a trial with one plant only, and we 
 guarantee that in less than five years their old vines are 
 headed down to the stump, to begin on a system that yearly 
 renews itself, and can be perpetuated for ages on the same 
 
ON MANURE. 321 
 
 vine, which may be said to '' renew its youth every year 
 In fact it recommends itself by simplicity— by the small 
 number of wounds annually made— by the clear and hand- 
 some appearance of the vine, and by the great ease with which 
 it is managed— its occupying but a small space. We there- 
 fore conclude this subject with the following few general rules: 
 Use a knife of the best description, and let it be per cctiy 
 sharp: cut always upward and in a sloping direction ; always 
 leave about an inch of blank wood beyond a terminal bud, 
 and let the cut be on the opposite side of the bud. In pruning 
 out an old branch, cut it even with the parent limb, that the 
 wound may quickly heal. Never prune in frosty weather 
 nor in the months of March, April, or May. Let the general 
 fall pruninc^ take place about the end of October or tirst ot 
 November; after which, stir up the ground, and let a good 
 coatincr of fresh stable manure be laid thereon, which will both 
 protect the roots that are near the surface, and also enrich 
 the soil : but if stable manure cannot be procured, leaves trom 
 the woods are an excellent substitute, which, after decompo- 
 sition, form a vegetable manure very enrichi g, and one_ very 
 concrenial to the vine; this being done, nothing more is re- 
 quired till the first of March, when the roughest must be 
 removed, and the decomposed particles forked into the borders. 
 It may be proper to state that in more northern latitudes and 
 greater altitudes than Philadelphia, it will be necessary to lay 
 down the vines after pruning during winter, and give them 
 a licrht covering of litter, straw, leaves, or mats, which will 
 com'pletely protect them from the severest frost; although it 
 is not altogether the severity that destroys, but the alternate 
 frost and sun acting on the plant every twenty-four hours, 
 which overcomes the vitality of the plant; and another tell 
 destroyer is when we have a mild February and a severe 
 J*Iarch. When such occurs, which is but rarely, the vines 
 must all be protected by mats while there is danger. 
 
 ox MANURE. 
 
 This subject has been very recently indulged in to a de- 
 structive extent. We could record instances of soils strongly 
 impregnated with very enriching manures being almost death 
 to the plant; very rich soils are adhesivs and retentive ot 
 
822 DESCRIPTIVE CATALOaUEj ETC. 
 
 moisture, which is destruction to the roots of the vine. The 
 celebrated Brassin, conductor of the royal vinery of France, 
 used to practise enriching his vine borders with exciting ma- 
 nures: he now finds that cleansing of ditches, grass-turf, and 
 rjad sweepings, mixed well together and allowed to ferment 
 for a year, is far preferable. He now uses it entirely as an 
 annual dressing; but, in our opinion, this cannot be con- 
 tinued for any length of time unless the border is also yearly 
 reduced ; consequently, manures that are of slow decomposi- 
 tion are preferable, and nothing that we are acquainted with 
 excels bones of every description ; but these are not always 
 at hand in quantity. When to be obtained they should al- 
 ways be put to a good purpose; an annual winter top-dressing 
 of manure of a few inches, and the roughest removed in the 
 spring, digging in the remainder not over four inches deep, 
 which will encourage the roots to the surface, where they 
 will be greatly benefited by solar heat and air. Liquid 
 manures are highly valuable where immediate effect is re- 
 quired : they contain all the soluble parts of manure in such 
 a state as to admit of being taken up by the plant as soon as 
 applied. These are urine, which may be used pure any time 
 from the first of November to February, when the ground is 
 not frozen ; but if used at any other period, must be diluted 
 with its equal quantity of water. Drainings of manure 
 heaps and soap-suds can be used at all times, but not too fre- 
 quently. Soot dissolved in water, in the proportion of one to 
 twelve, is an exceedingly strong manure, and very stimulating. 
 Guano dissolved in water at the rate of 20 lbs. to 100 gallons 
 is a first rate manure. Where great growth is required, they 
 may be safely watered once a week, during the growing sea- 
 son, with the enriched liquid ; but all these exciting manures 
 must be cautiously applied, as excess is very injurious to the 
 fertility of the vine ; and although one of the grossest /eeders 
 in nature, even possessing the appetite of a glutton, it can be 
 satiated and destroyed. 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE OF GRAPES MOST SUITABLE FOR 
 OPEN AIR CULTURE. 
 
 Golden Chasselas, Chasselas de Fontainhleau, U Arhoyce, 
 or Royal Muscadine. Bunches medium size, with very small 
 
 "r 
 
DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE, ETC. 323 
 
 shoulders, berries of a moderate size, round when ripe, turn- 
 ing to a bright amber colour, having a thin skin, a soft flesh, 
 and a rich juice. This is an exceedingly fine grape, a free 
 bearer, is very hardy, and ripens early; it may be considered 
 one of the best white grapes for out-door culture. 
 
 White Chasselas or White Muscadine. Bunches medium 
 size, shouldered, and well formed. Berries round and of a 
 good size, juicy, rich, and well flavoured; it ripens about the 
 middle or towards the end of September, and is an excellent 
 hardy grape, and fully equal to the former. We consider this 
 grape the same as the Malmsey Muscadine. 
 
 White Sweet Water (esLvlj). Bunches rather large; ber- 
 ries of a good size, round, of a white colour, and, when per- 
 fectly ripe, especially when exposed, they are shaded with a 
 light russet colour; they grow close on the bunches, and 
 when desired to have large berries, the bunches must be well 
 thinned, the juice very saccharine and luscious. We consider 
 this the very best white grape for walls; it is an excellent 
 bearer, makes good short-jointed wood, and is very early. 
 We have had it perfectly ripe on a south wall the first day of 
 September. 
 
 White Muscat of Alexandria, Jerusalem Muscat, Malaga. 
 Bunches large, but short and well shouldered ; berries large, 
 jval, and, when perfectly ripe (which will not be till October), 
 ire of a pale amber colour, often without stones, skin rather 
 thick, the flesh firm, juice not plentiful, but of a sweet, highly 
 musky, delicious and peculiar flavour. It is an extra fine 
 grape, and requires a warm situation. It does not bear so 
 freely as the former two. 
 
 White Frontignac or Frontignan. Bunches long and nar- 
 row, without shoulders, rather closely set, of a dull white or 
 greenish-yellow, and covered with a powdering bloom; juice 
 very sugary and rich, with a delightful spicy flavour. It 
 ripens in September, and delights in a dry soil. 
 
 White Hamburg, White Lisbon, White Portugal. Bunches 
 very large, short and loosely formed; berries large and oval, 
 skin thick, of a greenish -white colour, flesh firm, juice sweet, 
 slightly mixed with acid; one of our latest white grapes. 
 The plant is of a strong robust habit, and an excellent bearer. 
 
 Austi'ian Muscat. Bunches large and tapering : berries 
 round, of a russet-white colour, skin thin, juice rich and 
 
324 DESCRIPTIVK CATALOGUE, ETC. 
 
 musky, and of excellent flavour. It ripens about the second 
 week of September, and is an excellent bearer. , 
 
 Blach Frontignac, Violet Frontignac, Muscat Noir. 
 Bunches small and short : berries round, and grow close in 
 bunches ; skin black, covered with a fine light bloom, flesh 
 tender and juicy, of a rich vinous spicy flavour. 
 
 Black Hamburg. Bunches tolerably large, with short 
 compact shoulders, tapering to a point ; berries large, of an 
 oval form, skin rather thick, very nearly black, and covered 
 with a blue bloom ; flesh tender, sweet, and of a rich vinous 
 flavour; ripens about the first of October, but will hang on the 
 vine till frost. This is, in every respect, one of the finest 
 black grapes that can be grown in the open air : it is also 
 a constant bearer. The leaves in the fall are mottled with 
 green and yellow. 
 
 Blach Prince. Bunches rather long, and generally shoul- 
 dered : berries oval, and of a good size, skin rather thick, 
 of a dark purple, and covered with a thick bloom : flesh white, 
 sweet, juicy, and well flavoured : ripe about the first of Oc- 
 tober. 
 
 Black Lomhardy, West^s St. Peter's. Bunches long and 
 well shouldered : berries large, round, and of a regular size ; 
 skin thin and very black, juice plentiful, and of a very high 
 flavour; is perfectly ripe about the middle of October, and 
 will keep on the vines till frost. 
 
 Black Muscadine^ Black Chasselas, Violet Chasselas. 
 Bunches about the size and shape of the Golden Chasselas : 
 berries perfectly round, and covered with a blue bloom : flesh 
 juicy, and of a very rich flavour; ripens about the first of 
 October. 
 
 Frankendale. Bunches large, with small shoulders, and 
 rather longer than the Black Hamburg : berries round and 
 closely set ; skin deep purple, approaching to black, covered 
 with a thin blue bloom ; flesh tender, sweet, rich, and of a 
 luscious flavour : it is a great bearer, and fully ripe about the 
 end of September or first of October. 
 
 Grizzly Frontignac^ Muscat Gris. Bunches of a medium 
 size, with small shoulders : berries round, of a light brown 
 colour, intermixed with red and yellow ; the juice is exceed- 
 ingly rich, and possessing a high spicy flavour : it ripens about 
 the middle of September. 
 
DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE, ETC. 325 
 
 Hansteretto. Bunches large and well formed : berries also 
 large and perfectly round, of a jet black colour when perfectly 
 ripe; flesh rather juicy, and of a rich flavour; leaves deeply 
 lobed, and a little downy underneath. An excellent hardy 
 grape, but inferior in quality to the Black Hamburg : ripe 
 about the first of October. 
 
LIST OF HARDY EVERGREEN TREES AND 
 SHRUBS. 
 
 The heights given are approximations to what is supposed the 
 plants will attain in this country to serve as some ^uide in 
 planting them out. 
 
 Abies excelsa, Norway spruce 
 
 alba, white spruce 
 
 Canadensis, hemlock spruce 
 
 Dougliisii, Douglas spruce 
 
 nigra, black spruce . 
 
 rubra, red spruce 
 
 Smithiana 
 
 Araucaria imbriciita, Chili pine 
 Aiicuba Japdaica, Japan gold tree 
 Berberis dulcis, sweet berberry 
 
 Darwini 
 
 Buxus arborescens, tree box . 
 
 argentea, silver edged do. 
 
 durea, golden do. do. 
 
 latifolia, broad leaved do. 
 
 Cedrus Deodara, Deodar cedar 
 
 Libani, cedar of Lebanon 
 
 Cotoneaster microphylla, small leaved 
 
 thymifolia, Thyme leaved 
 
 Crataegus Pyracdntha, Pyracanth 
 Cryptomeria japdnica, Japan weeping cedar 
 Cupressus torulosa, twisted Cyprus . 
 
 — Australis, Australian Cyprus 
 
 pyramidalis, pyramidal do. 
 
 funebris, funebral Cyprus . 
 
 Eleiignus argentea, silver tree 
 Eriobotrya Japdnica, loquat 
 
 FEET 
 
 100 
 
 50 
 
 100 
 
 150 
 
 80 
 
 50 
 
 50 
 
 100 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 20 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 100 
 
 100 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 50 
 
 15 
 
 20 
 
 25 
 
 25 
 
 12 
 
 10 
 
 (327) 
 
828 
 
 LIST OF HARDY EVERGREEN TREES, ETC. 
 
 Escallonia rubra, red flowered 
 Eudnyiuus Japdnica, Japan spindle tree 
 
 argentea, silver edged do. 
 
 fimbriatus, fringed do. . 
 
 Hedera helix creeper, Irish ivy 
 Ilex oph,ca, American holly 
 
 aquifolium, European do. 
 
 variegatum, variegated do. 
 
 Jasminum fruticans, dwarf Jasmine 
 
 pubigerum, Japan do. 
 
 Juniperus Chinensis, Chinese juniper 
 
 excelsa, giant : . do. 
 
 phoenicea, Phoenician do. 
 
 suecica, Swedish do. 
 
 Sabina, savin do. 
 
 Virginiana, Virginian do. 
 
 K4lmia latif61ia, broad-leaved sheep laurel 
 Magnolia grandiflora, tree laurel 
 Mahonia fascicularis, evergreen berberry 
 
 aquifolia, holly leaved do. 
 
 Mespilus pyracantha, Pyi-acanth 
 Picea balsiimea, balm of Grilead fir 
 
 pectinata, silver 
 
 do. 
 do. 
 
 Pinus Austriaca, Austrian 
 
 excelsa, Bhotan pine 
 
 Laricio, Corsican do. 
 
 strobus, white or Weymouth pine 
 
 sylvestris, Scotch do. 
 
 inops, Jersey do. 
 
 Prinos glaber, evergreen prinos 
 Rhododendron Catawbiensie, Carolina rosebay 
 
 maximum, mountain laurel 
 
 ponticum, European rosebay 
 
 Rosmarinus officinalis, rosemary 
 Spartium jiinceum, broom 
 Taxodium sempervirens, California spruce 
 Taxus baccata, English yew . 
 
 ■ adpressa, appressed 
 
 Canadensis, Canadian yew 
 
 Chinensis, Chinese do. 
 
 Hibernica. Irish do. 
 
LIST OF HARDY EVERGREEN IREES, ETC 
 
 329 
 
 •Taxus pyramidMe, pyramidal 
 
 Dovastoniana, weeping yew 
 
 Thuja filiformis, weeping arborvitse . 
 
 occidentalis, American do. 
 
 orientalis, Chinese do. 
 
 plicata, fan leaved do. 
 
 pyramidalis,pyramidaledo. 
 
 Torr^ya taxifolia, Florida yew tree . 
 Ulex Europea, European furze or whin 
 Yiicca filamentosa, Adam's needle . 
 
 gloriosa, do. do. 
 
 recurvifdlia recurved do. 
 
 FEET 
 
 20 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 20 
 
 15 
 
 10 
 
 15 
 
 30 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 .i 
 
 28* 
 
330 
 
 LIST 01 SELECT HARDY DECIDUOUS TREES 
 AND SHRUBS. 
 
 The heights given are approximations to what it is supposed 
 the plants will attain in this country, in order to serve as 
 some guide in planting them out. 
 
 Acacia Julibrissin, 20 feet — Julibrissin tree, or purple Acacia; 
 
 very handsome. 
 Acer platanoides, 60 feet — maple. 
 
 campestre, 30 feet — English maple. 
 
 laciniatum, 20 feet — cut-leaved maple. 
 
 saccharinum, 60 feet — sugar maple. 
 
 Nigrum, 50 feet — black maple. 
 
 JEsculus Hippocastaneum, 60 feet — horse-chestnut. 
 
 fldre pleno — double-flowered. 
 
 — rubicunda — red flowered. 
 
 Amdrpha fructicosa, 10 feet — bastard indigo. 
 Anipeldpsis quinquefolia, Virginia creeper; very fine for cover- 
 ing walls or trees. 
 Amygdalis nh,na, 3 feet — dwarf-flowering almond. 
 
 communis flore pleno, 15 feet — double-flowered 
 
 peach. 
 
 pendula, 10 feet — weeping peach. 
 
 Andrdmeda polifolia, 2 feet — powdered andromeda. 
 
 grandiflora, 2 feet — large-flowered andromeda. 
 
 Aralia japdnica, 12 feet — Japan aralia. 
 
 Aristolochia sipho — Dutchman's pipe, a splendid climber. 
 
 Azaleas, 3 feet — hardy sorts, all beautiful. 
 
 Berberis vulgaris, 6 feet — Barberry. 
 
 ■ tilba, 4 feet — white fruited. 
 
 aristata, 6 feet — very distinct. 
 
 purpiireus, 4 feet — purple leaved. 
 
 Betula illba, 50 feet — white birch. 
 
 pendula, 20 feet — weeping birch. 
 
 laciuiata, 40 feet — cut-leaved birch. 
 
 Biiddlea Lindleyana, 3 feet — Lindley's buddlea. 
 globosa, 20 feet — globe-flowered 
 
LIST OP SELECT HARDY DECIDUOUS TREES, ETC. 331 
 
 Calycdnthus floridus, 6 feet — flowering shrub. 
 
 ■ fragr^ns, 4 feet — Chinese allspice. 
 
 Castanea iuteii, 40 feet — yellow-flowered chestnut. 
 
 pumila, 6 feet — dwarf chestnut. 
 
 Catdlpa syringaefolia, 30 feet — flowering catalpa. 
 Cerasus vulgaris fl. pi., 40 feet — double-flowering cherry. 
 
 pendvila, 6 feet — weeping cherry. 
 
 Cercis Canadensis, 20 feet — Judas tree or red-bud. 
 Chionanthus Virginica, 20 feet — white fringe tree. 
 Clethra alnifolia, 5 feet — white fragrant clethra. 
 Cdrnus sanguinea, 8 feet — red dogwood. 
 
 ■ Florida, 20 feet — white-flowering dogwood. 
 
 Corylus Avellana, 10 feet — common filbert. 
 
 purpurea, 8 feet — purple-leaved filbert. 
 
 Crataegus edulis, 20 feet — edible-fruited hawthorn. 
 
 splendens, 20 feet — splendid do. 
 
 albapleno, 15 feet — double white do. 
 
 riabra pleno, 15 feet — double red do. 
 
 Cupressus disticha, 100 feet — deciduous cypress. 
 Cydonia Japonica, 6 feet — red pyrus. 
 
 41ba, 6 feet — white do. 
 
 sinensis, 10 feet — pink flowering. 
 
 Cytisus laburnum, 20 feet — golden chain. 
 
 odoratus, 10 feet — sweet-scented chain. 
 
 alpinus pendulus, 10 feet — weeping labur- 
 num, 
 elongatus, 3 feet — dwarf do. 
 
 Dexltzia scabra, 6 feet — garland deutzia. 
 
 ' gracilis, 4 feet — dwarf white. 
 
 stamineae, 6 feet — large white-flowered deutzia. 
 
 Eiionymus Americiinus, 10 feet — spindle tree, or burning 
 bush. 
 
 Europeus, 10 feet — European do. 
 
 albus, 10 feet — white fruited do. 
 
 Fagus sylv4tica purpi^irea, 30 feet — purple beech. 
 
 asplcnifolia, 20 feet — fern-leaved beech. 
 
 ■ pendula, 16 feet — weeping do. 
 
 Forsythia viridissima, 10 feet — yellow flowered, large and 
 
 showy. 
 Fr^xinus exc61sior pendula, 30 feet — \^eeping ash. 
 
 aiirea, 20 feet — golden ash. 
 
 Fraxinus excelsior argentea, 20 feet — silver-edged ash. 
 salicifolia — willow-leaved ash. 
 
332 LIST OP SELECT HARDY DECIDUOUS TREES, ETC. 
 
 Gymnddadus Canadensis, 70 feet — Kentucky coffee tree. 
 Hal6sia diptera, 15 feet — silver-bell tree. 
 
 tetraptera, 15 feet — snow-drop tree, heautiful. 
 
 Hibiscus syriacus, all very beautiful, 6 feet — Althaeas, make 
 
 very ornamental hedges. 
 Hypericum kalmianum, 4 feet — St. Johns-wort. 
 Juglans regia, 30 feet — English or Madeira walnut. 
 Kerria Japdnica, 6 feet — or yellow corchorus. 
 Kolreuteria paniculata, 20 feet — yellow flowered, beautiful. 
 Larix Americana, 50 feet — American larch. 
 
 Europaea, 50 feet — European do. 
 
 pendula — weeping larch. 
 
 Lavandula spica, 3 feet — lavender. 
 
 Ligiistrum vulg^re, 8 feet — prim or privet, fine for fancy 
 
 hedges. 
 Liriodendron tulipifera, 80 feet — tulip tree. 
 Lonicera tartarica, 6 feet — Tartarian honeysuckle. 
 
 rubra, 6 feet — red flowered, do. 
 
 Ledeboiirii, 4 feet — Ledebours do. 
 
 ■ xyldsteum, 6 feet — fly do. 
 
 Madura aurantiaca, 30 feet, Osage orange, fine for hedges. 
 Magnolia conspicua, 20 feet — Chinese, or early white mag- 
 nolia. 
 
 cordata, 60 feet — heart-leaved magnolia. 
 
 glauca, 15 feet — swamp laurel, or magnolia. 
 
 macrophylla, 40 feet — broad-leaved do. 
 
 purpurea, 8 feet — purple-flowered do. 
 
 rubra, 8 feet — red-flowered do. 
 
 — soulangiana, 20 feet — Chinese striped do. 
 tripetala, 70 feet — cucumber tree. 
 
 Require 
 shade. 
 
 Mespilus Germanica, 10 feet — Dutch medlar. 
 
 Oxycdccus macrocdrpus, 10 feet — mountain cranberry. 
 
 Pseonia arborea fl. pi., 3 feet — tree paeonia, double " 
 flowered. 
 
 papaveraceae, 3 feet — single flow- 
 ered, white. 
 
 ■ rdsea, 3 feet — rose-coloured. 
 
 Pauldwnia imperialis, 30 feet — Chinese imperial tree, fragrant. 
 
 Philadelphus coron^rius, 8 feet — mock orange. 
 
 flore pleno, 4 feet — double flowered. 
 
 grandiflorus, 12 feet — large white 
 
 flowered. 
 
 Pl4tanus orientklis, 80 feet — Chinese buttonwood. 
 
LIST OF SELECT UARDY DECIDUOUS TREES, ETC. 333 
 
 P5pulus tr^mula p^ndula, 20 feet — weeping poplar. 
 
 alba, 30 feet — tree d'Abele, or silver poplar. 
 
 Ptelea trifoliata, 15 feet — hop tree. 
 Pyrus nivalis, 15 feet — snowy pyrus. 
 
 Americana, 20 feet — American rowan tree. 
 
 Aucuparia, 20 feet — European do. 
 
 vestita, 20 feet — waving do. 
 
 mains flore pleno, 15 feet — double flowering apple. 
 
 Quercus, 20 to 80 feet. The oak, though a common tree, 
 
 should not be discarded in planting ; it is both beautiful 
 
 and valuable. 
 Rhiis cdtinus, 12 feet — mist tree. 
 Ribes aureum, 7 feet — yellow flowering currant. 
 sangiiineum, 4 feet — red flowered, though a native, 
 
 does not do well in this latitude. 
 Robinia hispida, 4 feet — rose acacia. 
 
 viscosa, 20 feet — white flowered. 
 
 Salisbiiria adiantifolia, 60 feet — Giuko, or maiden-hair tree. 
 Salix babyldnica, 40 feet — weeping willow. 
 
 ' crispa, 30 feet — ringlet willow. 
 
 Americana pendula, 15 feet — New weeping willow. . 
 
 Shepherdia argentea, 30 feet — buffalo berry. 
 Sophora Japdnica, 20 feet — Japan Sophora. 
 
 pendula, 15 feet — weeping do. 
 
 Spiraea — all very beautiful dwarf-growing shrubs, with white 
 
 or pink flowers, exceedingly ornamental. 
 Syrlnga vulgaris, 10 feet — purple lilac. 
 
 alba, 10 feet — white do. 
 
 The red and white Persian, 6 feet — Charles the 10th and 
 
 other sorts, are indispensable when planting shrubbery. 
 Taraarix Germanica, 10 feet — tamarisk tree, singular. 
 Tilia Europaea, 40 feet — Eui-opean linden. 
 
 • Americana, 60 feet — American do. 
 
 Ulmus Americana, 80 feet — American elm. 
 
 campestris, 50 feet — English do. 
 
 montaua, 60 feet — mountain do. 
 
 pendula — weeping do. 
 
 Viburnum dpulus, 10 feet — guelder rose. 
 
 • oxycdccus, 12 feet — tree cranberry. 
 
 Vitex Agnus castus, 8 feet — chase tree. 
 
 Weigelea rosea, 4 feet — rose coloured, elegant, unique. 
 
 Xanthoxylum fraxineum, 10 feet — toothache tree. 
 
834 
 
 TABLE OF SOILS 
 
 The following compounds of soils are adapted to the nature of the 
 Plants contained in this work : — 
 
 Ntjmbek. 
 
 Savanna 
 
 
 Loam. 
 
 
 Leaf. 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 — 
 
 2 
 
 ■~ 
 
 - 
 
 3 
 
 - 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 
 - 
 
 4 
 
 - 
 
 _ 
 
 4 
 
 _ 
 
 -, 
 
 2 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 all 
 
 - 
 
 _ 
 
 - 
 
 _ 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 _ 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 _ 
 
 7 
 
 _ 
 
 - 
 
 3 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 . 
 
 1 
 
 . 
 
 _ 
 
 9 
 
 _ 
 
 - 
 
 2 
 
 _ 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 _ 
 
 - 
 
 3 
 
 - 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 _ 
 
 . 
 
 3 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 2 
 
 - 
 
 2 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 _ 
 
 . 
 
 4 
 
 . 
 
 _ 
 
 15 
 
 _ 
 
 - 
 
 4 
 
 - 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 4 
 
 - 
 
 _ 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 „ 
 
 - 
 
 5 
 
 . 
 
 1 
 
 V8 
 
 _ 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 19 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 Sand. 
 
 1 
 1 
 J 
 
 Manure. 
 1 
 
 BEMAEKS ON THE NATURE OF SOILS USED IN THE ABOVE TABLE. 
 
 Peat or Savanna soil is of a dark colour, -with a large portion of white 
 sand incorporated with it, and is found frequently in New Jersey. 
 A mixture of two-thirds black earth from the woods and one-third 
 of pure white sand will be similar to it, and may be used as a sub- 
 stitute, but it is not exactly of the same nature. 
 
 Loam is of a light-brown colour, and is that from the top of old pas- 
 tures or commons, which should lie one year, and be frequently 
 turned before using. It ought not to be from a clay bottom, and 
 merely three inches of the turf taken. 
 
 Lsaf, mould is that which is to be found on the surface of the ground 
 in woods, and is the decomposed leaves. It may be termed nearly 
 of first rate importance in vegetation. 
 
 Sand is a substance that is generally known, and that which is found 
 on the surface is decidedly the best. If it is from a pit, it must be 
 spread out and frequently turned, that it may assimilate with the 
 atmosphere before using ; four months will be suiBcient. 
 
 Manure, before using, must be decomposed to very fine particles. It 
 will require two years, during which time it iQust be often turned, 
 and the longer it lies it will be the finer and more congenial. 
 
GENERAL INDEX. 
 
 Acacia, 151, 201 
 
 Achimenes, 202 
 Aconitum, 39 
 Adam's needle, 50 
 Adonis, 38 
 iEschynanthus, 151 
 ^thiiopian lily, 275 
 Agapanthus, 201 
 Ageratum, 29 
 Air plants, 187 
 Allspice tree, 171 
 Allamanda, 152 
 Alligator pear, 169 
 Aloe, 202 
 Alonsoa, 202 
 Aloysia, 203 
 Alpinia, 146 
 Alstroemeria, 203 
 Althaea, 23 
 
 Amaryllis, 96, 111, 203 
 Amaranthus, 31 
 American cowslip, 42 
 
 sultan, 31 
 
 Amomum, 146 
 Amorpha, 23 
 Ampelopsis, 87 
 Anemone, 38, 120, 283 
 
 of planting, 120 
 
 Aniseed tree, 239 
 
 Annesleia, 151 
 
 Annuals, list of, for hot-bed, 29 
 
 hardy, 33 
 
 Anomatheca, 279 
 Anthericum, 39 
 Antirrhinum, 39 
 Aphelandra, 152 
 Apicra, 269 
 
 Araucaria, 204 
 
 Arbor vitse, 98 
 
 Arbutus, 205 
 
 Ardisia, 151 
 
 Areca, 152 
 
 Aristolochia, 84, 153 
 
 Asclepias, 39 
 
 Aster, 205 
 
 Astrapea, 153 
 
 Aucuba, 205 
 
 Auricula, 21, 47, 53, 110 
 
 character of a fire, 9i 
 
 Azalea, 205 
 Azorian jasmine, 339 
 
 Babiana, 279 
 Balsamina, 29 
 Bamboo cane, 153 
 Bambusa, 153 
 Banana tree, 170 
 Banisteria, 153 
 Banksia, 206 
 Barbadoes cherry, 170 
 
 gooseberry, 158 
 
 Barosma, 207 
 Beaufortia, 207 
 Beaumontia, 153 
 Begonia, 207 
 Bell clematis, 85 
 Belladonna, 97, 111 
 Bellis, 39 
 Benthamia, 207 
 Bergamotte, 224 
 Bignonia, 86 
 Bindweed, 33 
 Birthwort, 84 
 Bletia, 154, 207 
 
 (335) 
 
3B6 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Bonapartea, 154 
 Boronia, 208 
 Bouvardia, 208 
 Brachysema, 208 
 Brachycome, 34 
 Bramble rose, 303 
 Brassia, 187 
 Brompton stock, 43 
 Browallia, 29 
 Brunsfelsia, 154 
 Brunsvigia, 208 
 Brugmansia, 208 
 Budding roses, 114 
 Buddlea, 154 
 Burchellia, 209 
 
 Cabbage tree, 152 
 
 Cacalia, 29 
 
 Cactus, 149, 155, 209 
 
 grafting of, 158 
 
 Calathea, 154 
 Calandrinia, 29 
 Calceolaria, 209 
 Calla, 275 
 Callicoma, 210 
 Calothamnus, 210 
 Calystegia, 84 
 Camellias, list of, 210 
 
 195, 211 
 
 in rooms, 306 
 
 Campanula, 40 
 Camphor tree, 240 
 Canary-bird flower, 33 
 Candytuft, 33 
 
 Canna, 165, 182 
 Cantua, 37 
 Cape myrtle, 244 
 jasmine, 164, 269 
 
 Aster, 223 
 
 Caprifolium, 87 
 
 Carnation, 21, 42, 52, 92, 112, 117 
 
 on laying, 113 
 
 character of a, 112 
 
 Carolina jasmine, 235 
 Caryophyllus, 159 
 Catasetum, 187 
 Catalonian jasmine, 239 
 Catchfly, 38 
 Cattleya, 187 
 Ceanothus, 222 
 Celosia, 29 
 
 Centradenia, 159 
 Centranthus, 50 
 Centaurea, 34 
 Cerbera, 159 
 Cereus, 156 
 Ceropegia, 158 
 Cestrum, 223 
 Chamserops, 269 
 Cheiranthus, 40 
 Chelone, 40 
 Chili jasmine, 171 
 
 pine, 203 
 
 Chinese hybrid roses, 63 
 ■ primrose, 284 
 
 pink, 31 
 
 arbor vitse, 98 
 
 Chorozemia, 223 
 
 Chrysanthemum, 40, 41 
 
 Chryseis, 34 
 
 Cineraria, 223 
 
 Cinnamomum, 169, 223, 24( 
 
 Cistus, 223 
 
 Citrus, 224 
 
 Clarkia, 30 
 
 Clematis, 42, 84, 224 
 
 Cleome, 30 
 
 Clerodendron, 159, 224 
 
 Clethra, 225 
 
 Clianthus, 225 
 
 Clivea, 225 
 
 Clintonia, 29 
 
 Clove tree, 159 
 
 Cobsea, 225 
 
 Coffee, 159 
 
 Cofl'ee tree, 159 
 
 Colchicum, 111 
 
 Colliusia, 31 
 
 Colutea, 23 
 
 Combretum, 159 
 
 Commelina, 31 
 
 Convolvulus, 34 
 
 Coreopsis, 42 
 
 Coral plant, 162 
 
 honeysuckle, 87 
 
 Corn flag, 279 
 Coronilla, 226 
 Correa, 226 
 Corypha, 160 
 Cotyledon, 194 
 Cowslip, 47 
 ■■ Crane's bill, 236 
 
INDEX. 
 
 837 
 
 Crassula, 226 
 Crataegus, 227 
 Crinum, 160, 227 
 Crocus, 121 
 Croton, 160 
 Crowea, 227 
 Cunonia, 227 
 Cupliea, 227 
 Curcuma, 146 
 Cycas, 160 
 Cyclamen, 275 
 Cydonia, 125 
 Cymbidium, 207 
 Cypripedium, 161 
 Cypress vine, 34 
 Cyrtanthera, 161 
 Cyrtanthus, 227 
 Cyrtoceras, 161 
 Cytisus, 23 
 
 Dahlia, history of, 101 
 
 • character of, 107 
 
 list of, 105 
 
 on lifting the, 126 
 
 propagation of, 102 
 
 Daisy, 39, 125 
 Dampiera, 228 
 Daphne, 283 
 Date palm, 173 
 Daviesia, 228 
 Day lily, 44 
 Delphinium, 42 
 Dendrobium, 187 
 Dianthus, 42 
 Dictamnus, 43 
 Dielytra, 43 
 Digitalis, 37 
 Dillwynia, 228 
 Diongea, 146 
 Diosma, 228 
 Diplacus, 229 
 Dodecatheon, 43 
 Double rocket, 21 
 
 larkspur, 120 
 
 wallflower, 21, 
 
 Doryanthes, 229 
 Dracaena, 161, 229 
 Dracocephalum, 43 
 Dragon's head, 43 
 Dragon tree, 161 
 Dropwort, 49 
 29 
 
 110 
 
 Dryandra, 229 
 Dutchman's pipe, 84 
 Dyckia, 229 
 
 Echeveria, 229 
 
 Echinocactus, 156 
 
 Edgings of various plants, 60 
 
 Edwardsia, 230 
 
 Elephant's foot, 255 
 
 Elichrysum, 230 
 
 Enkianthus, 230 
 
 Entelea, 253 
 
 Epacris, 200, 230 
 
 Epidendrum, 187 
 
 Epiphyllum, 157 
 
 Epiphytes, 187 
 
 Eranthemum, 162 
 
 Erica, 200, 231 
 
 Eriobotrya, 232 
 
 Erodium, 233 
 
 Erythrina, 127, 162, 233 
 
 Erysimum, 33 
 
 Escallonia, 233 
 
 Eschscholtzia, 33 
 
 Eucalyptus, 233 
 
 Eucomis, 193 
 
 Eugenia, 162, 239 
 
 Euonymus, 99 
 
 Eupatorium, 43, 234 
 
 Euphorbia, 162 
 
 Eutaxia, 234 
 
 Evergreen shrubs, of planting 88 
 
 Evening primrose, 33, 46 
 
 Everlasting, 236 
 
 Fabiana, 335 
 Fair eye, 33 
 Fan palm, 168 
 Ferraria, 194 
 Ficus, 163, 234 
 Fig tree, 163 
 Flos Adonis, 34 
 Flax, 242 
 
 Flower-garden, on laying out a, 17 
 de luce, 44, 122 
 
 Flues, on constructing, 134 
 Fourcroya, 194 
 Foxglove, 37 
 Franciscea, 164 
 Fraxinella, 42 
 French honeysuckle, 36 
 
338 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 French eglantine rose for stock, 
 
 114 
 Fritillaria, 117 
 
 framing of, 21, 29 
 
 Fuchsia, 234 
 
 Funkia, 44 
 
 Furnace, on constructing, 134 
 
 Gardenia, 164, 269 
 Gardoquia, 235 
 Gasteria. 269 
 Geissomeria, 164 
 Gelsemium, 235 
 Genista, 23, 236 
 Gentiana, 44 
 Geranium, 236 
 Gerardia, 38 
 German stocks, 128 
 Gesneria, 146, 147 
 Geum, 44 
 Gilia, 34 
 
 Gladiolus, 96, 193, 279 
 Gloriosa, 147 
 Glory flower, 225 
 Gloxinia, 146, 147 
 Glycine, 86 
 Gnaphalium, 236 
 Gongora, 187 
 Gomphrena, 31 
 Gorteria, 236 
 Grafting, 60 
 Grape vine, culture of, 309 
 
 pruning of, 319 
 
 manure of, 221 
 
 descriptive catalogue 
 
 of, 322 
 Grass and other edgings, 30 
 Green-house, on erecting a, 189 
 Grove love, 35 
 
 Guano, introduction and p. 58 
 Gum-elastic tree, 234 
 
 Habranthus, 237 
 Hawkweed, 34 
 Haworthia, 269 
 Heart's-ease, 35, 94 
 
 culture of, 94 
 
 character of, 96 
 
 Heath, 200, 231 
 Hedera, 86 
 Hedychium, 146, 182 
 
 Hedysarum, 38 
 Helianthus, 34 
 Helichrysum, 237 
 Heliconia, 164 
 Heliophila, 34 
 Heliotropium, 164 
 Hemerocallis, 44 
 Hemimeris, 202 
 Hemlock spruce, 98 
 Heron's bill, 236 
 Hibbertia, 237 
 Hibiscus, 44, 164 
 Hieracium, 34 
 Holly, 238 
 Hollyhock, 37 
 Honeysuckle, 24, 87 
 Hottentot's bread, 255 
 Hovea, 237 
 Hoya, 165 
 Humea, 38 
 Hyacinth, 121 
 
 character of a, 90 
 
 Hybrid roses, 63 
 Hydrangea, 238 
 Hypericum, 237 
 
 Iberis, 34 
 
 Ice plant, 31 
 
 Hex, 238 
 
 lUicium, 239 
 
 ludigofera, 239 
 
 Indigo tree, 239 
 
 Insects, destruction of, HO 
 
 Ipomoea, 33, 165 
 
 Ipomopsis, 37 
 
 Iris, 45, 122 
 
 Irish ivy, 86 
 
 Ismene, 166 
 
 Ixia, 143, 193, 280 
 
 Ixora, 166 
 
 Jacksonia, 239 
 Jacobsea lily, 96 
 Jambosa, 166, 239 
 Japan day lily, 43 
 Jasmine, 87 
 
 Jasminum, 87, 167, 239 
 Jatropha, 167 
 Jonquil, 122 
 Juniperus, 98 
 Justicia, 167, 240 
 
INDEX. 
 
 839 
 
 Ksempferia, 146, 176 
 
 Kalosantlies, 226 
 Kennedia, 2-10 
 
 Lachenalia, 143, 192, 276 
 Ladies' slipper, 28 
 
 ■ plant, 161 
 
 Lagerstroemia, 264 
 Lantana, 168 
 Larkspur, 41 
 Lasiopetalum, 240 
 Laslandra, 168 
 Latania, 168 
 Lathyrus, 34 
 Laurus, 168, 240 
 Laurustinus, 259 
 Lavandula, 241 
 Lavender, 60, 241 
 Leschenaultia, 241 
 Leadwort, 47, 250 
 Leouotis, 241 
 Leptospermum, 241 
 Leptosiphon, 200 
 Leucadendron, 241 
 Leucosperraum, 242 
 Liatris, 45 
 Lilium, 122, 280 
 Lily, 122, 280 
 Liuum, 242 
 Lion's ear, 241 
 Loasa, 34 
 LobeUa, 242 
 London pride, 48 
 Lonicera, 87, 242 
 Lophospermum, 242, 251 
 Love lies bleeding, 34 
 Loquat, 232 
 Lunaria, 38 
 Lupinus, 34 
 Lychnis, 45, 242 
 Lycopodium, 169 
 Lythi-um, 46 
 
 Magnolia, 243 
 Mahernia, 243 
 Mahogany tree, 175 
 Malabar nut, 240 
 Malay apple, 167 
 Malope, 35 
 Mammillaria, 155 
 Mandevilli'^, 1"0 
 
 Manettia, 243 
 
 Manetti rose for stock, 114 
 
 Mangifera, 169 
 
 Mango tree, 169 
 
 Manihot, 168 
 
 Marica, 169 
 
 Marigold, 34 
 
 Marvel of Peni, 35 
 
 Mastich ti-ee, 250 
 
 Matthiola, 45 
 
 Maurandia, 34 
 
 Maxillaria, 187 
 
 Meadow sweet, 48 
 
 Medinella, 170 
 
 Melaleuca, 243 
 
 Melastoma, 170, 243 
 
 Melocactus, 155 
 
 Mesenibryanthemum, 30, 194, 270 
 
 Mespilus, 232, 244 
 
 INIetrosideros, 244 
 
 Mexican lily, 201 
 
 Mignionette, 35 
 
 Mimosa, 31, 200 
 
 Mirabilis, 35 
 
 Mimulus, 45 
 
 Monarda, 45 
 
 Monkey flower, 46 
 
 Monk's hood, 39 
 
 Musa, 149, 170 
 
 Musk scabious, 38 
 
 Myrsine, 244 
 
 Myrtle, 171 
 
 Myrtus, 171, 244 
 
 Nandina, 246 
 Narcissus, 122 
 Neapolitan violet, 49 
 Nemophila, 35 
 Nepenthes, 171 
 Nerium, 245 
 New Zealand flax, 249 
 Norfolk Island pine, 204 
 Night-blooming cereus, 156 
 jasmine, 223 
 
 Nintooa, 242 
 
 CEnothera, 47 
 Olea, 245 
 
 Oleander, 200, 245 
 OUve, 245 
 Oncidium, 187 
 
S40 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Opuntia, 158 
 Orchideous plants, 187 
 Ornithogalum, 276 
 Ossoea, 170 
 Oxalis, 276, 280 
 Oxlip, 47 
 Oxylobium, 246 
 
 Pachidendron, 269 
 Pseonias, 122, 284 
 Pancratium, 166, 171 
 Pandanus, 172 
 Pansy, 35 
 Papaver, 36 
 Passiflora, 87, 172, 246 
 Passion vine, 87, 172, 246 
 Pelargonium, 246 
 
 , list of, 248 
 
 Pentstemon, 21 
 Pereskia, 158 
 Periploca, 86 
 Periwinkle, 31 
 Persea, 169 
 Petunia, 31 
 Phaseolus, 249 
 Phlox, 47 
 Phoenix, 173, 249 
 Phormium, 249 
 Photinia, 227 
 Phyrnium, 146 
 Phylica, 249 
 Physic nut, 167 
 Pimelea, 249 
 Pimenta, 171 
 Pinks, 42, 51, 92, 112 
 Pinus, 100 
 Pistachia, 250 
 Pitcher plant, 171 
 Pittosporum, 250 
 Plantain tree, 170 
 Platylobium, 250 
 Plumbago, 47, 173, 250 
 Plumeria, 173 
 Podalyria, 250 
 Poinsettia, 173, 182 
 Poivrea, 160 
 Polianthes tuberosa, 93 
 Polyanthus, 21, 92, 110 
 
 character of a, 98 
 
 Pomegranate, 264 
 Potontilla, 47 
 
 Portulaca, 31 
 Primrose, 47, 92 
 Primula, 47, 284 
 Prince's feather, 33 
 Protea, 250 
 Pruning, 21 
 Pultenea, 251 
 Pyrus, 125 
 
 Queen Margaret, 31 
 
 plant, 175, 254 
 
 stock, 45 
 
 Eagged Robin, 45 
 Ranunculus, 21, 53, 91, 109, 111 
 — character of a, 82 
 
 Red cedar, 98 
 
 spider, 141 
 
 Renantbera, 192 
 
 Reseda, 34, 801 
 
 Rhapis, 174 
 
 Rhododendron, 251 
 
 Rhodochiton, 251 
 
 Rhus, 23 
 
 Richardia, 275 
 
 Rhipidodendron, 269 
 
 Robinia, 23 
 
 Rochea, 226 
 
 Rocket larkspur, 34 
 
 Rock rose, 223 
 
 Roella, 252 
 
 Rondeletia, 174 
 
 Rooms, treatment of plants in, 289 
 
 Rose campion, 37 
 
 tree, 251 
 
 Roses, budding, 114 
 
 Chinese or Bengal, ever* 
 
 blooming, 71 
 
 climbing, 80 
 
 daily, 71 
 
 hardy garden, list of, 54 
 
 hybrid Chinese, list of, 63 
 
 hybrid, perpetual, 67 
 
 risle de Bourbon, 69 
 
 microphylla, 82 
 
 musk-scented, 79 
 
 noisette, 76 
 
 odorata or tea, 73 
 
 of grafting, 67 
 
 perpetual, 66 
 
 i striped, list of, 65 
 
INDEX. 
 
 341 
 
 Rubus, 303 
 Ruellia, 174 
 Kusselia, 174 
 
 Sage, 252 
 
 Sago palm, 174 
 
 Sagus, 174 
 
 Salpiglossus, 31 
 
 Salvia, 252 
 
 Saponaria, 47 
 
 Saxifraga, 49 
 
 Scabiosa, 37 
 
 Schizanthus, 28 
 
 Scottia, 253 
 
 Screw piue, 172 
 
 Senecio, 253 
 
 Sensitive plant, 31 
 
 Shrubs, evergreen, 327 
 
 Shortia, 31 
 
 Silene, 48 
 
 Silk vine, 86 
 
 Silver tree, 241 
 
 Snail flower, 249 
 
 Snapdragon, 39 
 
 Soils, Table of, 334 
 
 Solandra, 174 
 
 Sollya, 253 
 
 Sparaxis, 281 
 
 Sparmannia, 258 
 Speedwell, 49 
 Spherolobium, 254 
 Spiderwort, 177 
 Spirsea, 49 
 Spurge, 162 
 
 laurel, 284 
 
 Spreikelia, 96 
 Sprengelia, 254 
 Stanhopea, 187 
 Star of Bethlehem, 276 
 St. Bamos lily, 39 
 St. Johnswort, 237 
 Statice, 49 
 Sternbergia, 111 
 Stephanotis, 175 
 Stigmaphyllon, 175 
 Stock gilly, 21, 45 
 Stork's biU, 246 
 Strelitzia, 175, 254 
 Strawberry tree, 205 
 
 . pear, 157 
 
 Btreptocarpus, 264 
 
 29* 
 
 Styphelia, 254 
 Summer heliotrope, 35 
 Sutherlandia, 254 
 Swainsonia, 254 
 Sweet William, 32 
 bay, 128 
 
 pea, 34 
 
 sultan, 30 
 
 Swietenia, 175 
 Sword lily, 96 
 
 Tabernoemontana, 176 
 Tacsonia, 257 
 Tagetes, 33 
 Tea-plant, 255 
 Tecoma, 86, 175, 255 
 Testudinaria, 255 
 Thea, 255 
 Thrift, 48, 60 
 Thrinax, 176 
 Thuja, 99 
 
 Thunbergia, 31, 176 
 Thyme, 60 
 Tiger flower, 97 
 Tigridia, 97 
 Torenia, 176 
 Touruefortia, 35 
 Tradescantia, 176 
 Trees, hardy, 330 
 Trie primrose, 33 
 - poeony, 284 
 Tritonia, 281 
 Tropffiolum, 31, 257 
 Tuberose, 93, 102, 119 
 Tulip, of planting the, 123 
 
 character of a good, 31 
 
 Tulips, 51, 90, 109, 200 
 Turk's cap, 156 
 
 Urania, 176 
 
 Valeriana, 50 
 Variegated Euphorbia, 35 
 Vanda, 187 
 Venus' paint-brush, 31 
 
 fly-trap, 145 
 
 Verbena, 257 
 Veronica, 50, 259 
 Viburnum, 23, 259 
 Viminaria, 259 
 Vinca, 31, 76 
 
342 
 
 Viola, 50, 94 
 
 Virgin's bower, 42, 84, 224 
 
 Volkameria. 224 
 
 Wachendorfia, 192 
 Wahlenbergia, 40 
 Wall flower, 40, 110, 128 
 Watsonia, 281 
 Wax plant, 165 
 Westringia, 260 
 Wind flower, 38 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Wistaria, 86 
 Witsenia, 260 
 1 Wolf's-bane 39 
 
 Yucca, 50, 260 
 
 Zamia, 176, 260 
 Zebra plant, 154 
 Zingiber, 146, 182 
 Zinnia, 81 
 Zygopetalum, 188 
 
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 AMESICAlf FAEMEB'S ENCYCLOPEDIA, $4 00 
 
 As A Book op Reference for the Farmer or Gardener, this 
 
 Work is superior to any other. It contains Reliable Information for the Cultivation of 
 every variety of Field ami Garden Crops, the use of all kinds of Manures, descriptions 
 and figures of American insects ; and is, indeed, an Agricultural Library in itself, con- 
 taining twdoe hundred pages, octavo, and is illustrated by numerous engravings of 
 Grasses, Grains, Animals, Implements, Insects, &c., &c. By Gouterneiik Emerson of 
 Penustlvaxia. 
 
 AMERICAN WEEDS AND USEFUL PLANTS, ... -160 
 
 An Illustrated Edition of Agricultural Botant ; An Enu- 
 meration and Description of Weeds and Useful Plants which merit the notice or 
 require the attention of American Agriculturists. By Wm. Darlington, II. D. Re- 
 vised, with Additions, by George Thukber, Prof, of Mat. Med. and Botany in the New 
 York College of Pharmacy. Illustrated with nearly 300 Figures, drawn expressly for 
 this work. 
 
 ALLEN'S (R. L.) AMEEICAN FAEM BOOK, 1 00 
 
 Or a Oomfend of American Agriculture ; being a Practical 
 
 Treatise on Soils, Manures, Draining, Irrigation, Grasses, Grain, Roots, Fruits, Cotton, 
 Tobacco, Sugar Cane, Rico, and every Staple Product of the United States ; with the 
 best methods of Planting, Cultivating and Preparation for Market. Illustrate with more 
 than 100 engravings. 
 
 ALLEN'S (B. L.) DISEASES OF DOMESTIC ANIMALS, . - 75 
 
 Being a History and Description of the Horse, Mule, Cattle, 
 
 Sheep, Swine, Poultry and Farm Dos^s, with Directions for their Management, Breeding, 
 Crossing, Rearing, Feeding, and Preparation for a Profitable Market ; also, their 
 Diseases and Remedies, together with full Directions for the Management of the Dairy, 
 and the comparative Economy and Advantages of Working Animals, — the Horse, Mule, 
 Oxen, &c. 
 
 ALLEN'S (L. F.) RURAL ARCHITECTURE, 1 25 
 
 Being a Complete Description op Farm Houses, Cottages and 
 
 Out Buildings, comprising Wood Uouses, Workshops, Tool Houses, Carriage and Wagon 
 Houses, Stables, Smoke and Ash Houses, Ice Houses, Apiaries or Bee Houses, Poultry 
 Houses, Rabbitry, Dovecote, Pigeery, Barns and Sheds for Cattle, &c., &c. ; together 
 with Lawns, Pleasure Grounds and Parks ; the Flower, Fruit and Vegetable Garden ; 
 also, the best method of Conducting water into Cattle Yards and Houses. Beautifully 
 illustrated. 
 ALLEN (J. FISZ) ON THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE, - - 1 00 
 A Practical Treatise on the Culture and Treatment op thb 
 
 Grape Vine, embracing its History, with Directions for its Treatment in the United 
 States of America, in the Open Air and under Glass Structures, with and withoul 
 Artiacial Heat 
 
 Mailed poit paid upon receipt of price. 
 
<i Bool's jinhiished by C. M. Saxton, 'Barker & Co. 
 
 AHCEEICAN ASCHITECT, 6 00 
 
 Comprising Original Designs of Cheap Country and Village 
 
 Residences, willi Details, Specifloations, Plans aad Directions, and an Estimate of the Cosl 
 of each Design. By Jonx W. Rircn, Architect. First and Second Series, 4to, bound in 
 1vol. 
 
 &MESICAN FLOBIST'S GUIDE, 75 
 
 Comprising the American Rose Culturist, and Every liADY 
 
 her own Flower Gardener. 
 
 AERY'S FEUIT GARDEN, 1 25 
 
 A Treatise, Intended to Explain and Illustrate the Physi- 
 
 ology of Fruit Trees, the Theory and Practice of all Operations connected with the 
 Propagation, Transplanting, Pruning and Training of Orchard and Garden Trees, as 
 Standards, Dwarfs, Pyramids, B^paUer, &c. The Laying out and Arranging different 
 kinds of Orchards and Gardens, the selection of suitable varieties for different purposes 
 and localities. Gathering and Preserving Fruits, Treatment of Diseases, Destruction of 
 Insects, Description and Uses of Implements, &c. Dlustrated with upwards of 150 
 Figures. By P. Barry, of the Mount Hope Nurseries, Rochester, N. Y. 
 
 BEMENT'S (C. N.) RABBIT FANCIER, 50 
 
 A Treatise on the Breeding, Rearing, Feeding and General 
 
 Management of Rabbits, with Remarks upon their Diseases and Remedies, to which are 
 added Full Directions for the Construction of Hutches, Rabbitries, &c., together with 
 Recipes for Cooking and Dressing for the Table. Beautifully illustrated. 
 
 BLAKE'S (REV. JOHN L.) FARMER AT HOME, - - - - 1 25 
 
 A Family Text Book for the Country ; being a Cyclopedia 
 
 of Agricultural Implements and Productions, and of the more important topics in 
 Domestic Economy, Science and Literature, adapted to Rural Life. By Kev. Johs L. 
 BlAKE, D. D. 
 
 BOTJSSINGATJLT'S (J. B.) RURAL ECONOMY, 1 25 
 
 Or, Chemistry Applied to Agriculture ; presenting Distinctly 
 
 and in a Simple Manner the Principles of Farm Management, the Preservation and Use of 
 Manures, the Nutrition and Food of Animals, and the General Economy of Agriculture. 
 The work is the fruit of a long life of study and experiment, and its perusal will aid the 
 farmer greatly in obtaining a practical and scientific knowledge of his profession. 
 
 BROWNE'S AMERICAN BIRD FANCIER, 25 
 
 The; Breeding, Rearing, Feeding, Management and Peculi- 
 
 arities of Cage and House Birds. Illustrated with engravings. 
 BROWNE'S AMERICAN POULTRY YARD, 1 00 
 
 Comprising the Origin, History and Description of thk 
 
 Different Breeds of Domestic Poultry, with Complete Directions for their Breeding, 
 Crossing, Rearing, Fattening and Preparation for Market ; including specific directions 
 for Caponizing Fowls, and for the Treatment of the Principal Diseases to which they are 
 subject, drawn from authentic somxcs aud personal observation. Illustrated with 
 numerous engravings. 
 
 BROWNE'S (D. JAY) FIELD BOOK OF MANURES, - - - - 1 25 
 
 Or, American Muck Book ; Treating of the Nature, Properties, 
 
 Sources, History and Operations of all the Principal Fertilizers and Manures in Common 
 Use, with speciic directions for their Preservation and Application to the Soil aud to 
 Crops ; drawn from authentic sources, actual experience and personal observation, as 
 combined with the Leading Principles of Practical and Scientific Agriculture. 
 
 BRIDGEMAN'S (THOS.) YOUNG GARDENER'S ASSISTANT, - - 1 60 
 
 In Three Parts ; Containing Catalogues of Garden aud Flower 
 
 Seed, with Practical Directions under each head for the Cultivation of Cu nary Vege- 
 tables, Flowers, Fruit Trees, the Grape Vine, &c. ; to which is added a Calendar to each 
 ))art, showing the work necessary to be done in the various departments each month 
 of the year. One volume octavo. 
 
 BBIDGEMAN'S KITCHEN GARDENER'S INSTRUCTOR, >^ Cloth, 60 
 " •< '< '» aoth, 60 
 
 MaiUdpod paid upon receipt of price. 
 
Books published hy C. "M. Saxton, Barker & Uo. 
 
 BaiDGEMAirS FLOEIST'S GUIDE, ...... K Cloth, 60 
 
 " " " Cloth, 60 
 
 BEIDGEMAN'S FEUIT CULTIVATOB'S MAJtniAL, - ^ Cloth, 60 
 
 " " ' " . _ Cloth, 60 
 
 BRECK'S BOOK OF FLOWEES, ........ l QO 
 
 In wnicH are Described all the Vasious Hardy Herbace()U3 
 
 Perennials, Annuals, Shrubs, Plants and Evergreen Trees, with Directions for their 
 Cultivation. 
 
 BUJST'S (BOBERT) AMEKICAN FLOWER GARDEN DIEECTORT, 1 25 
 
 Containing Practical Directions for the Culture op Plants, 
 
 In the Flower Garden, Hothoust^, Greenhouse, Rooms or Parlor Windows, for every 
 month in the Year ; with a Description of the Plants most desirable in each, the nature 
 of the Soil and situation best adapted to their Growth, the Proper Season for Trans- 
 planting, &c. ; with lustruelions for erecting a Hothouse, Greenhouse, and Laying out 
 a Flower Garden ; the whole adapted to either Large or Small Gardens, with Instruc- 
 tions for Preparing the Soil, Propagati'.g, Planting, Pruning, Training and Fruiting the 
 Grape Vine. 
 
 BUIST'S (ROBERT) FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER, ... 75 
 
 Containing Plain and Accurate Descriptions op all the 
 
 Dififereut Species and Varieties of Culinary Vegetables, with their Botanical, English, 
 French and German names, alphabetically arranged, with the Best Mode of Cultivat- 
 mg them in the Garden or under Glai5s ; also Descriptions and Cliaraoter of the most 
 Select Fruits, their JIauagement, Propagation, &c. By Robert Buist, author of the 
 "American Fiower Garden Directory," &c. 
 
 CHINESE SUGAR CANE AND SUGAR-MAKING, .... 25 
 
 Its History, Culture and Adaptation to the Soil, Climate, 
 
 and Economy of the Uniteil States, with an Account of Various Processes of Manu- 
 facturing Sugar. Drawn from autheutic sources, by Cuarles F. Stansburt, A. M., late 
 Commissioner at the Exhibition of all Nations at Loudon. 
 
 CHORLTON'S GRAPE-GROWER'S GUIDE, 60 
 
 Intended Especially for the American Climate. Being a 
 
 Practical Treatise on the Cultivation of the Grape Vino in each department of Hot- 
 house, Cold Grapery, Retarding House and Out-door Culture. With Plans for the con- 
 struction of the Requisite Buildings, and giving the best methods for Heating the same. 
 Every department being fully illlstratcd. By William Choklion. 
 
 COBBETT'S AMERICAN GARDENER, 50 
 
 A Treatise on the Situation, Soil and Layino-out op Gardens, 
 
 and the Making and Managing of Hotbeds and Greenhouses, and on the Propagation 
 and Cultivation of the several soils of Vegetables, Herbs, Fruits and Flowers. 
 
 COTTAGE AND FARM BEE-KEEPER, 50 
 
 A Practical Work, by a Country Curate. 
 
 COLE'S AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK, 50 
 
 Containing Directions for Raising, Propagating and Manao- 
 
 ing Fruit Trees, Shrubs and Plants ; with a Description of the Best Varieties of Fruit, 
 including New and Valuable Kinds. 
 
 COLE'S AMERICAN VETERINARIAN, 50 
 
 Containing Diseases op Domestic Animals, their Causes, Sysip- 
 
 toms and Remedies ; with Rules for Restoring and Preserving Health by good manage- 
 ment ; also for Trainuig and Breeding. -' 
 
 DADD'S AMERICAN CATTLE DOCTOR, 1 00 
 
 Containing the Necessary Information for Preserving the 
 
 Health and Curing the Diseases of Oxen, Cows, Sheep and Swiue, with a Great Variety 
 of Original Recipes and Valu.able Information in reference to Farm and Dairy Manage- 
 ment, whereby every Man can bo his own Cattle Doctor. Tlie principles taught in thia 
 •work are, that all Medication shall be subservient to Nature — that ail Jledicines must be 
 sanative in their operation, and administered with a view of aiding the vital powers, 
 instead of depressing, as heretofore, with the lancet or by poison. By G. H. Dadd, M. D. 
 Veterinary practitioner. 
 
 Milled postpaid upon receipt of price. 
 
4 Books pvhlished hy C. M. Saxton, Barker & Go. 
 
 DADD'S MODEKN HORSE DOCTOR, 1 00 
 
 An American Book for American Farmers; Containing Practi- 
 cal Observatious ou the Causes, x\:aiiro aud Trcatmeut of Disease and Lameness of 
 Horses, embracing the JIosfRooeiit and Approved Methods, according to an culightened 
 system of Veterinary Practice, for the Preservation aud Restoration of Health. With 
 illustrations. 
 
 DADD'S ANATOMY AUD PHYSIOLOGY OF THE HORSE, Plain, . 2 00 
 
 " " " " " Colored Plates, 4 00 
 
 With Anatomical and Questional Illustr itions ; ConTaiiiing, 
 
 also, a Series of K.'caminations on Equina Anatomy aud Philosophy, with Instructions iu 
 reference to Dissection and the mode of making Anatomical Preparations ; to which is 
 added a Glossary of Veterinary Technical itios, Tosicological Chart, and Dictionary of 
 Veterinary Science. 
 
 DANA'S MUCK MANUAL, FOR THE USE OF FARMERS, - - 1 00 
 
 A Treatisk on the Prysical .*nd Chemical Properties of Soils 
 
 and Chemistry of Manures ; ineludiiif,', also, the subject of Composts, Artificial Manures 
 and Irrigation. A new edition, with a Chapter on Bones and Superphosphates. 
 
 DANA'S PRIZE ESSAY ON MANURES, 26 
 
 Submitted to the Trustees of the Massachusetts Society for 
 
 Promoting Agriculture, for their Premium. By Samtet, H. Dana. 
 DOMESTIC AND ORNAMENTAL POULTRY, Plain Plates, . . . 1 00 
 " " '' Colored Plates, . - 2 00 
 
 A Treatise on the History and Management of Ornamental 
 
 and Domestic Poultry. By Kev. Edmunti Saul Dixon, A. M., with large additions by 
 J. J. ICbrr, M. D. Illustrated with sixty-flv^e Original Portraits, engraved expressly for 
 this work. Fourth edition, revised. 
 
 DOWNING'S (A. J.) LANDSCAPE GARDENING, 3 50 
 
 Revised, Enlarged and Newly Illustrated, by Henry Win- 
 
 throp Sargent. This Great Work, which has accomplished so much in elevating the 
 American Taste for Rural Improvements, is now rendered doubly interesting and 
 valuable by the e.Kperience of all the Prominent Cultivators of Ornamental Ti'ees in the 
 United States, and by the descriptions (jf American Places, Private Residences, Central 
 Park, New York, Llewellyn Park, New Jersey, and a full account of the Newer Iiecidn- 
 ous and Evergreen Trees and Shrubs. Tlio illustrations of this edition consist of seven 
 superb steel plate engravings, by Smilue, ID.vsiielwood, Duthik and others ; besides one 
 hundred engravings on vxtod and stone, of the best American Residences and Parks, with 
 Portraits of many New oi- Remarkable Trees and Shrubs. 
 
 DOWNING'S (A. J.) RURAL ESSAYS, . 3 00 
 
 On Horticulture, Landscape Gardening, Rural Architecture, 
 
 Trees, Agriculture, Fruit, with his Letters from England. Edited, with a Memoir of the 
 Author, by George Wm. CrRxis, and a Letter to his Friends, by Frederika Bremer, and 
 an elegant Steel Portrait of the Author. 
 
 EASTWOOD (B.) ON THE CULTIVATION OF THE CRANBERRY, 60 
 
 With a Description of the Best Varieties. By B. Eastwood, 
 
 " Septimus," of the New York Tribune. Illustrated. 
 ELLIOTT'S WESTERN FRUIT BOOK, 1 25 
 
 A New Edition of this Work, Thoroughly Revised. Em- 
 bracing all the New and Valuable Fruits, witli the Latest Improvements inthi-ir Cultiva- 
 tion, up to .Tanuary, 1S.59. especially adapted to the wants of Western Fruit Growers ; 
 f\ill of excellent illustrations. By F. R. Ei-uott, Pomologist, lat^' of Cleveland. Ohio, now 
 of St. Louis. ' 
 
 EVERY LADY HER OWN FLOWER GARDENER, - - . . 50 
 
 Addressed to the Industrious and Economical only ; containing 
 
 simple and practical Directions for Cultivating Plants and Flowers ; also. Hints for tho 
 Management of Flowers in Rooms, with brief Botanical Descriptions of Plants and 
 Flowers, The whole in plain and simple language. By Louisa Johnson. 
 
 ' Mailed post vaid upon •eceipt of price. 
 
Books pullished hy C. M. Saxton, Barker & Co, 5 
 
 FASM DEAINAGE, 1 00 
 
 The Principles, Processes and Effects of Drainixq Land, 
 
 •with Stoues, Wood, Drain-plows, Open Ditches, and especially with Tiles ; incliuliug 
 Tables of R;uiifaU, l?vaporation, Filtratiou, Excavation, capacity "of Pipes, cost and num- 
 ber to the acre. With more than 100 illustrations. By the Hon. Hentiy F. Frexct, of 
 New Hampshire. 
 
 JESSENDEN'S (T. G.) AMESICAN KITCHEN GAKDENER, - - 50 
 
 Containing Directions for the Cultivation of Vegetables and 
 
 Garden Fruits. Cloth. 
 FESSENDEN'S COMPLETE FARMER AND AMERICAN GARDENER, 1 25 
 
 RuRAi, Economist and New American Gardener ; Containing 
 
 a Compendious Epitome of the most ImporUiut Branches of Agriculture and Rural 
 Economy ; with Practical Directions on the Cultivation of Fruits and Vegetables, includ- 
 ing Landscape and Ornamental Gardening. By Thom.as G. Fesse-vdisj. 2 vols, in 1. 
 
 FIELD'S PEAR CULTURE, 1 00 
 
 The Pear Garden ; or, a Treatise on the Propagation and 
 
 Cultivation of the Pear Tree, with Instructions for its Management from the Seedling to 
 the Bearing Tree. By TnoMiis W. Field. 
 
 FISH CULTURE, 100 
 
 A Treatise on the Artificial Propagation of Fish, and the 
 
 Construction of Ponds, with the Description and Ilabilsof such kinds of Fish as are most 
 suitable for Pisciculture. By Theodatus Garuck, it. D., Vice-President of the Cleveland 
 Academy of Nat. Science. 
 
 FLINT ON GRASSES, - - - . 1 25 
 
 A Practical Treatise on Grasses and Forage Plants ; Com- 
 prising their Natural History, Comparative Nutritive Value, Methods of Cultivation, Cut- 
 ting, Curing and the Management of Grass Lands. By Charles L. Funt, A. M. . Sucre- 
 tary of the Mass. State Board of Agriculture. 
 
 GUENON ON MILCH COWS, - - 60 
 
 A Treatise on Milch Cows, whereby the Quality and Quantity of 
 
 Milk which any Cow will give may be accurately determined by observing Natural 
 Marks or External Indications alone ; the length of time she \\ ill continue to give Milk, 
 &c., &c. By M. FR-iNCis Gubxon, of Libourne, France. Translated by Nicuol.a.'? P. 
 Trist, Esq. ; with Introduction, Remarks and Observations on the Cow and the Dairy, 
 by John S. Skix>.-er. Illustrated with numerous Engravings. Neatly done up in paper 
 covers, 37 cts. 
 
 HERBERT'S HINTS TO HORSE-KEEPERS, 1 25 
 
 Complete Manual for Horsemen ; Embracing : 
 
 How TO Breed a Horse. How to Phtsio a Hor-se. 
 
 How TO BtJY A Horse. (Allopathy and Hoikeopathy 
 
 How to Break a Horse. How to Groom a Horse. 
 
 How TO Us3E A Horse. How to DRm; a Horse. 
 
 How to Feed a Horse. How to Ride a Horse. 
 
 And Chapters on Mules and Ponies. By the late Henry Wiluam Herbert (Frank 
 Forrester) ; with additions, including Rarey's Method of Horse TAinxo, and Baucher's 
 Sy.^em of Horsemanship ; also, giving directions for the Selection and Care of Carriages 
 and Harness of every description, from the City " Turn Out" to the Farmer's '' Gear," 
 and a Biography of the eccentric Author, lllmlrated throughout. 
 
 HOOPER'S DOG AND GUN, 50 
 
 A Few Loose Chapters on Shooting, among which will be 
 
 found some Anecdotes and Incidents ; also Instructions for Dog Breaking, and interest- 
 ing letters from Sportsmen. By A Bad Shot. 
 
 HYDE'S CHINESE SUGAR CANE, 24 
 
 Containing its History, Mode of Culture, Manufacture of 
 
 the Sugar, &o. ; with Reports of its success in diflercnt parts of the United States. 
 Mailed post paid upon receipt of prii-e. • 
 
6 Boolis puUishul hy 0, 'M. Saxton, Barker & Co. 
 
 JOHNSTON'S (JAMES F. W.) AGRICTJLTUEAL CHEMISTE"i, - 1 25 
 
 Lectub^!? on the Application of Ohejiistry and Geology to 
 
 Ag"iculture. Now Edition, with aa Appcudix, contaiuiug the Author's Experiments in 
 Practical Agriculture. 
 
 JOHNSTON'S (J F. W.) ELEMENTS OF AGRICULTTJKAL CHEM- 
 ISTRY AND GEOLOGYj - - - 1 00 
 
 With a Complete Analyticai. and Alphabetical Index, aud an 
 
 American Preface. By Hon. Simon Brow,\, F.ditor ol' the " New England Farmer. •'' 
 
 OHNSTON'S (J. F. W.) CATECHISM OF AGRICULTTJEAL CHEM- 
 ISTRY AND GEOLOGY, 25 
 
 By James F. AV. Johnston, Honorary Member of the Eoyal 
 
 Agricultural Society of England, and author of " Lectures on Agricultural Chemistry 
 and Geology." With an Introduction by John Pitkin Norton, M. A., late Professor oi' 
 Scientific Agriculture in Yale College. With Notes and Additions by the Author, pre- 
 pared expressly for this edition, and an Appendix compiled by the Superintendent of 
 Education in Nova Scotia. Adapted to the use of Schools. 
 
 LANGSTROTH (REV. L. L.) ON THE HIVE AND HONEY BEE, - 1 25 
 
 A Practical Treatise on the Hive and Honey Bee, Third 
 
 edition, enlarged and illii^lrated with numerous engraoings. This Work is, without a 
 doubt, the best work on the Bee published in any language, whether we consider its 
 scientific accuracy, the practical instructions it contains, or the beauty and completeness 
 of its illustrations. 
 
 LETJCHARS' HOW TO ETHLD AND VENTILATE HOTHOUSES, - 1 25 
 
 A Practical Treatise on the Construction, Heating and 
 
 Ventilation of Hothouses, including Conservatories, Greenhouses, Graperies and other 
 kinds of Horticultural Structures ; with Practical Directions for their Management, in 
 regard to Light, Heat and Air. Illustrated witli numerous engravings. By P. B. 
 LEuniAiis, Garden Architect. 
 
 LIEBIG'S (JUSTUS) FAMILIAR LECTURES ON CHEMISTRY, - 50 
 
 And its relation to Commerce, Physiology, and Agriculture. 
 
 Edited by John Gardener, M. D., 
 LINSLEY'S MORGAN HORSES, - - - - . . . . i qo 
 
 A Premium Essay on the Origin, History, and Characteristics 
 
 of this remarkable American Breed of Horses ; tracing the Pedigree from the original 
 Justin Morgan, through the most noted of his progeny, down to the present time. 
 With numerous portraits. To which are added Hints for Breeding, Breaking and Gene- 
 ral Use and Management of Horses, with practical Directions for Training them for 
 Exhibition at Agricultural Fairs. By D. C. Linsley, Editor of the American Stock 
 Journal. 
 
 MOORE'S RURAL HAND BOOKS, 1 26 
 
 First Series, containing Treatises on — 
 The Horse, The Peots of the Fabm, 
 
 TnE HoG, Domestic Fowia, and 
 
 The Honey Bee, The Cow. 
 
 Second Series, containing — .... i 25 
 
 Evi:ry Lady her own Flower Gardener, Essay on Manures, 
 
 Elemeitis of Agriculture, American Kitchen Gardener, 
 
 Bird Fanoer, American Rose Cuixurist. 
 
 Third Series, containing — - - - - - 1 25 
 
 MitEs ON THE Horse's Foot, Vine-Dresser's IIanual, 
 
 The RABBrr Fancier, Bee-Keeper's Chart, 
 
 Weeks on Bees, Chemistry Made Kasy. 
 
 Fourth Series, containing — - ... l 26 
 
 Phjsoz on TnE Vine, Hooper's Dog and Gun, 
 
 Ijehig's Familur Letters, Skxllfui Housewifk, 
 
 Browxe's Memoirs of Indian Corm. 
 
 Mailed post paid upon receipt of price. 
 
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