atjr S. 1. Hill Ctbrarg Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from NCSU Libraries http://www.archive.org/details/coaltarcoloursof02farb 735 THE COAL TAR COLOURS OF FARBWERKE vorm. MEISTER LUCIUS & BRUNING HOECHST on MAIN, GERMANY AND THEIR APPLICATION IN DYEING COTTON AND OTHER VEGETABLE FIBRES. SECOND VOLUME. H. A. METZ & CO. 122 HUDSON STREET, NEW YORK, SOLE AGENTS FOR THE U. S. A. — 1907. ===== INDEX. Volume II. Page Part III: The Application of the Cotton Dyestuffs. Cotton Colours classified according to special properties 1 The Dyeing of Cotton in its unspun state 21 a) loose cotton 21 b) carded cotton 26 c) cotton rovings 27 Patterns of Yarns spun of dyed loose cotton 28 Cotton Yarn Dyeing 33 a) Yarn in Hanks " 33 Patterns of dyed Yarns 40 b) Weaving Yarns 41 c) Cops and Cheeses 54 Methods of Aftertreatment for altering the handle 57 Cotton Yarn Printing 62 Linen Yarn Printing 96 Patterns of Printed Yarns 97 Cotton Piece Dyeing 103 Preparation for dyeing 103 a) Dyeing in the cistern 105 b) Dyeing on the jigger 107 c) Dyeing on the padding machine 109 d) Dyeing in continuous machines 110 e) Padding and Foularding 113 Washing of dyed goods 123 Drying of dyed goods 125 Further treatment of dyed fabrics 126 Half Silk Dyeing 126 Patterns of Half Silk effects 132 The Dyeing of Lace, Braids, Ribbons and Twine 133 88958 PART III. THE APPLICATION OF THE COTTON DYESTUFFS. -«=*§*=— PREFACE. Having introduced, in the previous two chapters, both separately and in groups, our colours used for dyeing vegetable fibres, we now proceed to discuss, in the following third part, the practical methods of dyeing, — in so far as it has not already been done in the second part — for Indigo, Alizarine, Azo Colours developed on the fibre, Aniline Black and Diphenyl Black. Naturally, this survey cannot be exhaustive. Considering the immense variety in the employment of vegetable fibres, most particularly of cotton, it is only possible to select, in the scope of the present work, a few typical examples, in order to show their application for certain purposes. A principal factor in the use of dyestuffs is the machine industry. It has, therefore, been found necessary to follow also with close attention the improvements and simplifications achieved in that department. As already done in the first volume, in discussing vat dyeing etc., we illustrate, in the following pages, the various methods of dyeing by drawings of machines. We give, in the first place, a classified synopsis of the properties of our Cotton dyestuffs, afterwards entering into a discussion of the third part, which we have divided into the following chapters: 1. The dyeing of Cotton in its unspun state. 2. Cotton Yarn dyeing and Cotton Yarn printing. 3. Cotton Piece dyeing. The discussion of the technical aspect is succeeded by a collection of patterns, and the chapter concludes with a short description of dyeing other vegetable fibres. COTTON COLOURS CLASSIFIED ACCORDING TO SPECIAL PROPERTIES. 1. COTTON COLOURS FAST TO BLEACHING. No colours are absolutely fast to bleaching i. e. no colours exist which withstand all the processes of boiling, chlorinating and souring without loss of depth. Some colours are fast to boiling in Alkali, others are fast to chlorine and acids, but not a single colour withstands what is called a full bleach without being at least partially destroyed. If, therefore, dyed material is to be bleached, it is generally advisable to boil it without pressure with soda instead of soda lye. Several colours withstand this application satisfactorily; they are therefore termed colours fast to bleaching. Alizarine Red No. 1, Paste 20 % on Alumina or Alumina-Iron or Iron- Mordant alone. Alizarine Blue, all brands on Oil-Tannin-Chrome Mordant. Indigo MLB, MLBR, MLB/RR, MLB|T. Aniline Black. Diphenyl Black. Alizarine Yellow GG Paste, 5G, on Chrome Mordant. Alizarine Orange N Paste on Chrome Mordant. Primuline, chlorinated. 1 ii b. H. HILL. LiaKAFO" North Carolina State College — 2 2. COTTON COLOURS FAST TO CHLORINE. Besides the colours enumerated under 1, the following dyestuffs withstand the process of chlorinating with chloride of lime: Alizarine Yellow R on Chrome Mordant, Alizarine Orange on Alumina Mordant, Alizarine Dark Blue on Chrome Mordant, Oxydianil Yellow O, G, Dianil Direct Yellow S, Aurophenine O, Dianil Fast Scarlet 8BS, Metaniti aniline Orange, Paranitraniline Red, Azophor Red, Naphthylamine Claret, Thiogene Cyanine O, G. 3. COTTON COLOURS FAST TO WASHING. A. The following colours may be washed in hot soap and soda, without changing their shades materially nor bleeding into white. Alizarine Orange N Paste on Alumina and Chrome Mordants. Alizarine Red Paste 20' J /o, all brands, on Alumina, Chrome and Iron Mordants, Alizarine Claret R Paste, on Alumina and Chrome Mordants, Alizarine Brown, all brands, on Alumina and Chrome Mordants, Alizarine Blue, all brands, on Chrome Mordant, Alizarine Dark Blue S, on Chrome Mordant, Alizarine Green S, on Chrome Mordant, Ceruleine, all brands, on Alumina and Chrome Mordants, Galleine A Paste, on Chrome Mordant, Solid Green O 50°/o, as Bistrebrown without Mordant, on Chrome and Iron Mordant, Indigo MLB, MLB/R, MLB/RR, MLB/T, Aniline Black, treated with Bichrome Copper Sulphate and Sulphuric Acid. — 3 Diphenyl Black, Primuline O, chlorinated, Cresotine Yellow G, Dianil Fast Brown B, R, Dianil Brown 3 GO, MH, Dianil Chrome Brown R, G, Dianil Black N, CR, Dianil Fast Red PH, treated with Fluoride of Chrome, All Thiogene Colours. B. Though slighty inferior to those enumerated above, the following colours withstand washing and soaping satisfactorily. Alizarine Yellow R, GG Paste, 5G, on Chrome Mordant Metanitraniline Orange, Azophor Orange, Paranitraniline Red, Azophor Red, Alphanaphthylamine Claret, Dianisidine Blue, Azophor Blue, Nitroso Blue, Auramine, all brands, Methylene Yellow H, Flavophosphine, all brands, Janus Yellow G, Janus Brown, B, R, Rosazeine 4G, Rosazeine Scarlet G extra, Safranine, all brands, Safranine Scarlet 2G, Janus Red B, Methylene Violet 3RA extra, 2RA, 2RN, BN, Primula R, soluble, Methylene Heliotrope O, Methyl Violet 2B, 4B, 6B, 8B, Violet Crystals O, Rosolane BO, Victoria Blue, all brands, Methylene Blue, all brands, Marine Blue, all brands, Thionine Blue GO, Ethyl Blue BF, — 4 — N. v. Ethyl Blue BS, RS, Indamine Blue N extra, K Powder, [ndophene Blue B, G. RN, Janus Blue G, R, Janus Dark Blue R, B, Methylene Green O, extra yellow DG, extra yellow cone, Janus Green G. B, Janus Black I, Janus Grey BB, Methylene Grey, all brands, Oxydianil Yellow O. G, treated with Bichrome or Copper and Bichrome, Dianil Yellow 2 R, :'>G, treated with Bichrome or Copper and Bichrome, Direct Dianil Yellow S, Primuline O, developed with Azophor Red or Azophor Orange. Also the diazotised and developed shades of: Primuline O, Dianil Brown Mil, BII, Dianil Black ES. Further : Dianil Azurine G, treated with Copper Sulphate, Dianil Orange N, Toluylene Orange R, I , , , . , . , ~. ., .„ , ' _ .. „„ i developed with Azophor Red. Dianil Black C R, R, N, PR, ' v Dianil Brown 3 GO, G, 2G, 5G, B, R, D, M, j Dianil Black N, treated with Bichrome and Copper Sulphate. C. The folio wing colours are fairly fast to washing: Azo Phosphine GO, BRO, Janus Yellow R, Phosphine. all brands, ( lirvsoidine, ,, Vesuvine, ,, ,, Safranine Scarlet 5249, Magenta, all brands, New Magenta O, Cerise G, R, Grenadine, all brands, Maroon extra, Methyl Violet 5R, 4R, 3R, 2R, B, New Fast Blue 3R cryst, Fast Blue for Cotton, all brands, Malachite Green, all brands, Brilliant Green Crystals extra, Oxydianil Yellow O, G, Dianil Pure Yellow HS, Dianil Yellow R, 2R, Cresotine Yellow G, Dianil Orange G, Toluylene Orange R, Dianil Pink BD, Dianil Fast Red PH, Dianil Claret Red G, B, Dianil Violet H, Dianil Fast Brown B, R, Dianil Brown MH, BH, 3 GO, B, BD, D, G, 2G, M, R, 3R, X, Dianil Japonine G, Dianil Indigo O, Dianil Blue G, HG, H2G, H3G, H6G, BX, Dianil Azurine G, Dianil Dark Blue R, 3R, Dianil Green B, G, Dianil Dark Green B, Patent Dianil Black, all brands. Note: Those Dianil Colours, which are not enumerated under C, are not sufficiently fast to washing generally, although they might still be suitable for certain purposes. The fastness to washing of Basic Colours is increased by an aftertreatment with tannin and tartar emetic. -« 3©C— 4. COTTON COLOURS FAST TO WATER. The dyestuffs enumerated under 3, are mostly fast to water (an aftertreat- ment with Solidogen increases the fastness of the Dianil Colours considerably); also the following colours are fast to water. Eosine, Erythrosine, Phloxine, Rose Bengale, Eosine Scarlet, Cyanosine, all brands — =-»$)c=— treated with Solidogen. — 6 — 5. COTTON COLOURS FAST TO PERSPIRATION. All colours with exception of: Brilliant Orange, Brilliant Croceine, Eosine, | Erythrosine, Phloxine, Rose Bengale, Dianil Red 4B, Dianil Red K, Dianil Claret Red G, B. All brands. 6. COTTON COLOURS FAST TO BOILING IN ACIDS. Alizarine Orange N, on Oil-Alumina and Oil-Chrome Mordants, Alizarine Red, all brands, on "Old Red" Mordant, except brand SDG, Alizarine Blue, | Ar • r> i di All brands, on Oil-Tannin-Chrome Mordant, Alizarine Dark Blue, | ' ' Ceruleinc, all brands on Oil-Alumina or Oil-Chrome Mordant, Indigo MLB, MLB/R, MLB RR, MLBT, All Thiogene Colours, Methylene Yellow II, Auramine, all brands, Flavophosphine, all brands, Phosphine GO, Rosolane BO, Methylene Violet, all brands, .Methylene Heliotrope O, Safranine, all brands, Rosazeine Scarlet G extra, Rosazeine, all brands, Thionine Blue GO, Methylene Blue, all brands, .Methylene Green, all brands, Brilliant Green Crystals extra, Malachite Green, all brands, Victoria Blue, all brands, Indophene Blue, all brands, New Ethyl Blue BS, RS, Ethyl Blue BF, Indamine Blue N extra, R Powder, Janus Yellow G, R, Janus Brown R, B, Janus Green B, G, Janus Blue G, R, Janus Dark Blue B, R. Developed with Azophor Red: Dianil Orange N, Toluylene Orange R, Dianil Brown G, 2 G, 5G, R, M, B, D, 3 GO, Dianil Black CR, R, N, PR. . Diazotised and developed: Primuline O, Dianil Brown MH, Dianil Brown BH, Dianil Black ES. Treated with Bichrome and Copper Sulphate: Dianil Brown 3 GO, MH, BH, Dianil Fast Brown B, R, Dianil Chrome Brown R, G, Dianil Black CR, T, N, R, Primuline O, chlorinated, Aniline Black, Diphenyl Black, Solid Green Oo0°|o, as Bistrebrown, Azophor Orange, Paranitraniline Red, Azophor Red, Naphthylamine Claret. The fastness of the Basic Colours is increased by an aftertreatment with tannin and tartar emetic. — =*§*=- 7 COTTON COLOURS FAST TO ACID. a A drop of acetic acid 12" Tw. followin Methylene Yellow II, Auramine, all brands, Flavophosphine, all brands, Azo Phosphine GO, BRO, Phosphine O, extra, Yellow for Leather O, Chrysoidine A cryst. C extra cryst., Vesuvine extra yellow, cone, 2R, 4 BG, cone, Cutch Brown G, D, G, Grenadine O, 2 R, Maroon O, Safranine, all brands, Safranine Scarlet 2G, 5249, Magenta, all brands, New Magenta O, Rosazeine Scarlet G extra, Rosazeine, all brands, Methyl Violet, all brands, Violet Crystals O, Marine Blue, all brands, Rosolane BO, Methylene Violet, all brands, Methylene Heliotrope O, Primula R, I hie nine Blue GO, Methylene Blue, ..11 brands, Victoria Blue, all brands, Fast Blue for Cotton, all brands, Indophene Blue, all brands, New Ethyl Blue BS, Ethyl Blue BF, Indamine Blue, all brands, ill brands. Pure Blue O, Cotton Blue extra, Cotton Light Blue ( ) soluble, Methyl Blue for Cotton MLB, Methylene Green, all brands, does not change the shade of the g colours: Brilliant Green cryst. extra. Malachite Green, all brands, Methylene Grey, all brands, Grey for Silk O, soluble, Janus Yellow G, R, Janus Red B, Janus Brown R, B, Janus Blue G, R, Primuline O, chlorinated, developed with Azophor Red, or diazotised and de- veloped, Dianil Yellow ;: (1. Oxydianil Yellow O, G, Dianil Yellow G, R, 2R, Dianil Direct Yellow S, Dianil Orange G, Dianil Brown 5G, A (No. 8611), G, BH, 2G, R, M, B, D, Dianil Chrome Brown G, Dianil Japonine G, Dianil Brown MH, diazotised and deve- loped, Dianil Fast Scarlet 8BS. Dianil Scarlet 2R, treated with Solid- ogen, Dianil Fast Red PH, Dianil Crimson B, G, Dianil Claret Red. B, Dianil Blue I ICG. H3G, G, B, H2G, R, 2R, BX, HG, Dianil Azurine G, I )ianil Indigo O, Dianil Dark Blue, R, Dianil Green B, G, il Dark Green 1!. Dianil Black ES, developed with Pheny- lene Diamine, Dianil Black CR, R. N, treated with Azo]. hoi' Red, Dianil Black PR, — 9 Thiogene Golden Yellow AO, Thiogene Yellow G, GG, Thiogene Orange, all brands, Thiogene Brown, all brands, Thiogene Khaki O, Thiogene Rubine O, Thiogene Dark Red G, R, Thiogene Cyanine O, G, Thiogene Blue B, R, RR, Melanogene Blue, B, BG, treated with metal salts, Thiogene Green BL extra, GL extra, Thiogene Black, all brands, Indigo MLB, MLB ; 'R, MLB.'RR, MLB/T, Alizarine Red, all brands, | on Alumina Alizarine Claret R, or Chrome Alizarine Orange N, j Mordant Alizarine Yellow 5 G Powder Galleine A Paste on Alizarine Blue DN, B, SR Paste Chrome Alizarine Green S, Mordant Ceruleine S Powder, SW Paste Brilliant Orange G, Brilliant Croceine R, B, blue shade, Azophor Orange, Azophor Red, Paranitraniline Red, Alphanaphthylamine Claret, Diphenyl Black, Solid Green 50°/o, as Bistrebrown. b) A drop of acetic acid 12° Tw. slightly changes the shade of the following colours. Dark Brown M, Janus Green B, G, Janus Black I, Primuline O, developed with Resorcine, Dianil Brown 3 GO, Dianil Brown 5 G, Dianil Japonine G, treated with Bichrome and Copper Sulphate, Dianil Brown 3R, X, Dianil Brown MH, Dianil Chrome Brown R, Dianil Fast Brown R, B, Brilliant Dianil Red R, Delta Purpurine 5B, Dianil Scarlet 2R, Dianil Pink BD, Dianil Violet H, Dianil Indigo O, treated with Copper Sulphate, Dianil Black ES, CR, CB, N, T, R, Patent Dianil Black FF cone, FFC cone, FFT cone, FFA extra cone, RW extra, FB, Thiogene Catechu R, Thiogene Heliotrope O, Thiogene Violet B, V, la ii — 10 Thiogene Dark Blue BL, BTL, Thiogene Green, all brands, Alizarine Brown, <>n Alumina and Chrome Mordants, Alizarine Yellow GG Paste, i _, ,, .,. ,. ,, . , ,, on Chrome Mordant, Alizarine Yellow K Paste Alizarine Blue SB on Chrome Mordant, Aniline Black. c) A drop of dilute Muriatic acid: (100 [36° Tw.] : 1000) does not change the shade of the following colours: Azo Phosphine GO, Phosphine O, extra, Rosazcinc Scarlet G extra, Fast Blue for Cotton KB, Indophene Blue G, B, RN, Indamine Blue R Powder, Cone. Cotton Blue No. I, II Pure Blue O, < iotton Blue extra, Cotton Light Blue O, soluble, Methyl Blue for Cotton MLB, Methylene Green O, extra yellow DG, extra yellow, Methylene Grey NFD, NFS, Janus Brown B, Janus Blue R, Primuline O, chlorinated, developed with Beta-Naphthol, Schaeffer's Salt, or Developer for Claret, Dianil Yellow 3G, treated with Copper Sulphate, Oxydianil Yellow O, Dianil Yellow R, RR, Dianil Orange G, Dianil Fast Scarlet 4BS, Dianil Blue II GG, B, G, R, 3R, 4R, Dianil Azurine G, Dianil Blue BY 1 lianil Indigo O, Dianil Black LS, developed with Phenylene Diamine, Dianil Black R, N, developed with Azophor Red, Dianil I '.lack PR, Thiogene ( trange RG, Thiogene Brown GC, treated with Copper Sulphate, Thiogene Brown GR, G2R, R, Thiogene Black M liquid, B2R liquid, — 11 — Thiogene Black M cone, MM cone, B2R cone, Indigo MLB, MLB/R, MLB.'RR, MLB/T, Alizarine IB, No. 1, 2 A, 2 AG, 3RL, 5F, on Alumina mordant, Alizarine Orange N, on Alumina mordant, Azophor Orange, Azophor Red, Paranitraniline Red, Naphthylamine Claret, Diphenyl Black. d) Dilute muriatic acid (100 [36° Tw.] : 1000) only slightly changes the shade of the following dyestuffs: Methylene Yellow H, Auramine, all brands, Vesuvine, extra yellow, cone, 2R, 4BG cone, Rosazeine 4G, Thionine Blue GO, Methylene Blue BB extra, DBB extra, B cone, Fast Blue for Cotton BB, New Fast Blue 3R cryst., New Ethyl Blue BS, Ethyl Blue BF, Indamine Blue N extra Powder, Cone Cotton Blue R, Methylene Grey ND, O, Janus Blue R, Janus Blue G, Janus Dark Blue B, R, Primuline O, developed with Resorcine, Dianil Yellow 3G, Oxydianil Yellow G, Dianil Direct Yellow S, Dianil Brown 5 G, X, G, BH, Dianil Japonine G, Dianil Brown MH, developed with Phenylene Diamine or Beta-Naphthol, Dianil Brown B, D, M, R, direct or developed with Azophor Red, Dianil Scarlet 2R, developed with Solidogen, Dianil Azurine G, treated with Copper Sulphate, Dianil Blue 2R, Dianil Dark Blue R, 3R, Dianil Black R, CB, CR, T, N, — 12 — Dianil Black ES, developed with Beta-Naphthol, Patent Dianil Black FF cone, FFC cone, FFT cone, EF cone, FFA extra cone, R\V extra, FB, Thiogene Golden Yellow A< >, Thiogene Yellow GG, G, ■ (range < M '•. K, RR, nr Brown < il , Thiogene Khaki O, treated with Bichrome and Copper, Thiogene Brown K, KR, S, ne Rubine O, Thiogene Dark Red G, K, Melanogen Blue HG, B, both treated with Fixing Salt, Thiogene Black 4 B cone, Thiogene Diamond Black V, Alizarine Red SDG Paste on Alumina mordant, Alizarine Orange N t _, , 1 „ „ i on Chrome mordant, Alizarine Green b Aniline Black. — a®c~ 8. COTTON COLOURS FAST TO IRONING. The following dyestuffs Methylene Yellow 1 1, Flavophosphine, all brands, Phosphinc, all brands, Azo Phosphine GO, BRO, Chrysoidine A cryst., C cryst. cryst., Ve uvine, all brands, Brown D, G, I >ai I. Brown M, ita, all brands, New Magenta I \ .ill brands, Grenadine, all brands, Maroon < >, extra, Safranine Scarlet 5249, 2G, Sali. mm'-, all brands, stand hot ironing without changing their shade. Methylene Heliotrope O, Methylene Violet, all brands, Rosolane BO, Methyl Violet, all brands, except 4 R, 5R, C extra Violet Crystals ( I, Marine Blue, all brands, Victoria Blue, all brands, Malachite Green, all brands, Brilliant Green, all brands, Rosazcine, all brands, Rosazeine Scarlet ii. G extra, Cone Cotton Blue, all brands. Pure Blue, all brands, Methyl Blue tor Cotton MLB., Methylene Blue, all brands, Thionine Blue GO, 13 Indamine Blue N extra, R Powder, Ethyl Blue BF, Methylene Indigo O, SS, Methylene Dark Blue RBN, 3BN, Indophene Blue B, G, Methylene Green, all brands, Fast Blue for Cotton, all brands, New Fast Blue 3R cryst., Janus Yellow G, R., Janus Brown B, R, Janus Red B, Janus Green G, B, Janus Blue G, R, Janus Black I, Primuline O, chlorinated or developed, Oxydianil Yellow O, G, Dianil Yellow 3G, G, R, Dianil Pure Yellow HS, Dianil Direct Yellow S, Aurophenine O, Cresotine Yellow G, Dianil Orange G, N, Toluylene Orange R, Dianil Brown MH, BH, 3 GO, 2G, G, R, BD, D, B, Dianil Fast Brown B, R, Dianil Fast Red PH, direct or treated with Fluoride of Chrome, Dianil Pink BD, Dianil Scarlet G, 2R, Dianil Red R, 4B, 10 B, Brilliant Dianil Red R, R cone, Delta Purpurine 5 B, Dianil Violet H, Dianil Green G, B, Dianil Blue G, B, R, 2R, 3R, 4R, E, ET, BX, HG, H2G, H6G, Dianil Dark Blue R, 3 R, Dianil Black R, G, CR, PR, PG, Patent Dianil Black, all brands, Dianil Black ES, direct, Alizarine Yellow 5 G, GG Paste, R Paste, Alizarine Orange Paste, Alizarine Brown, all brands, Alizarine Red, all brands, Alizarine Claret, R Paste, Alizarine Blue, all S brands, Alizarine Dark Blue S, Alizarine Green S Paste, Ceruleine cone, S, S cone, Paste SW., Galleine, all brands, Indigo MLB, MLB/R, MLB/RR, MLB/T, Azophor Orange, Paranitraniline Red, Azophor Red, Naphthylamine Claret, Nitroso Blue, Dianisidine Blue, Aniline Black, Diphenyl Black, All Thiogene Colours. 9. COTTON COLOURS FAST TO STEAMING. Indigo MLB, MLB/R, MLBRR, MLB/T. Solid Green-Bistre, Aniline Black, Diphenyl Black, — 14 — Alizarine Colours, All Basic Colours, Dianil Colours, treated with Metal Salts or developed with Azophor Red, Dianil Colours, diazotised and developed, Azophor Orange, Paranitraniline Red, Azophor Red, Naphthylamine Claret, All Thiogene Colours, 10. COTTON COLOURS FAST TO MILLING. Alizarine Yellow GG Paste, 5G, on Chrome mordant, Alizarine Orange Paste on Chrome and Alumina Mordants, Alizarine Red, all brands, on Alumina, Chrome or Iron Mordants, Alizarine Claret Red R, I Alizarine Brown, j on Alumina and Chrome mordants, Alizarine Blue, all brands, Alizarine Dark Blue all brands, I on Chrome Mordant, Alizarine Green S, ileine, all brands, on Alumina and Chrome mordants, Galleine, all brands, on Chrome Mordant, Solid Green 50%, as Bistrebrown, Indigo MLB, MLBR, MLB/RR, MLB I. Aniline Black, Diphenyl Black, All Thiogene Colours, Primuline O, chlorinated, Cresotine Yellow G, Dianil Chrome Brown R and G, Dianil Brown SGI >, Mil, , Dianil Fast Hi own B, R, chromed in an acid bath, 1 M.mil Black CR, G, N, T, J Fairly fast to milling are: Janus Yellow I r, Janus Brown B, R. Janus Blue R, G, — 15 — Janus Green G, B, Janus Grey B, BB, Methylene Yellow H, Flavophosphine 2 G cone, new., GR, Thionine Blue GO, Methylene Violet 3RA extra, Methylene Heliotrope O, Methylene Blue BB extra, DBB extra, B cone, Indamine Blue N extra, R. Ethyl Blue BF, Indophene Blue B, G, RN, Methylene Green, all brands, Methylene Grey, all brands, Primuline O, diazotised and developed, Dianil Orange N Toluylene Orange R J developed with Azophor Red, Dianil Brown D Dianil Fast Red PH, treated with Fluoride of Chrome, Dianil Brown MH, BH ) J . . , , , . ^. ., „, , „„ I diazotised and developed, Dianil Black ES Dianil Brown BD, R, 3 GO, MH j Dianil Fast Brown B, R treated with Bichrome and Dianil Japonine G Copper Sulphate. Dianil Black CR Basic Colours are aftertreated with Tannic Acid and Tartar Emetic. — =>®c=— 11. COTTON COLOURS FAST TO STOVING. Auramine, all brands, Safranine, all brands, Vesuvine, all brands, Methylene Violet, all brands, Azo Phosphine GO, Methylene Heliotrope O, Phosphine O, New Ethyl Blue BS, RS, Methyl Violet 4B, 6B, 7B, 8B, Methylene Grey, all brands, Victoria Blue B, Oxydianil Yellow, O, G, Methylene Blue, all brands, Dianil Yellow, R, 2 R, Thionine Blue GO, Aurophenine O, Methylene Green O, extra yellow, Dianil Direct Yellow S, — 16 Cresotinc Yellow G, Primuline ( >. chlorinated, 1 (ianil ( trange (i. N Toluylene < >range R Dianil Brown 3GO, R, BD Dianil Fasl Brown B Dianil Dark Blue R, 3R Dianil Black CR, N Dianil Brown Mil, Dianil Pink BD, Dianil Fast Red PI I, Dianil Fast Scarlet SBS, Dianil Blue G, BX, 2G, B, K, 2R, 2RS, 3R, H6G, H3G, HG, developed Dianil Indigo O, with Dianil Green G, Azophor Dianil Azurine G, Red, Dianil Dark Green B, Dianil Black CR, Thiogene Colours, Mordant Colours, 1 liphenyl Black. -*3®e— 12. COTTON COLOURS FAST TO RUBBING AND CALANDERING. Fast to rubbing and calandering are: Aniline Black, Diphenyl Black, All Thiogene Colours, Methylene I O, Methylene Blue, all brands, Thionine Blue GO, Ethyl Blue BF, New Ethyl Blue BS, RS, New Fast Blue 3R crystals, Fast Blue for Cotton, all brands, Indamine Blue N extra, NB extra, R, Indophene Blue B, G, RN, Janus Blue R, G, Janus Dark Blue, R, B, Janus Green G, B, Methylene Green, all brands. Methylene Grey. The Dianil Colours, Nitroso Blue, Solid Green Bistre, t to calandering are: The Alizarine Colours, Indigo MLB, MLB/R, MLB/RR, MLBT, Auramine, all brands, Methylene Yellow H, Phosphine, all brands, hosphine, all brands, A/(i Phosphine, all brands, Chrysoidine, all brands, Janus Yellov Rosazeine, all brands, Rosazeine Scarlet G, G extra, Safranine, all brands, Safranine Scarlet 1' G, Methylene Violet, all brands, — =•§«=- — 17 — 13. COTTON COLOURS FAST TO LIGHT. The following dyestuff are distinguished for their great fastness to light: Alizarine Yellow R, GG Paste, 5 G, on Chrome Mordant, Alizarine Orange on Chrome and Alumina Mordants, Alizarine Brown, all brands, Alizarine Red, all brands, Alizarine Claret R, Alizarine Blue, all brands on Chrome Mordant, Alizarine Green S Paste on Chrome Mordant, Ceruleine, all brands, Aniline Black, Diphenyl Black, Indigo MLB, MLB/R, MLB/RR, MLB,T, Dianisidine Blue, Azophor Blue, Melanogene Blue B, treated with Metal salts, All Thiogene colours, Primuline O, chlorinated, Oxydianil Yellow O, G, Aurophenine O, Cresotine Yellow G, treated with Copper Sulphate. The following dyestuffs are a little less fast to light: GalleTne, all brands, Paranitraniline Red, Azophor Red, Solid Green Bistre, Auramine, all brands, Janus Yellow G, R, Phosphine, all brands, Azo Phosphine GO, Flavophosphine 2 G cone, new, Safranine, all brands, Rosolane BO, Methylene Violet, all brands, Methylene Heliotrope O, Methylene Blue, all brands, Thionine Blue GO, New Fast Blue 3R Crystals, Fast Blue for Cotton, all brands, Indamine Blue, all brands, Ethyl Blue BF, New Ethyl Blue RS, BS, Indophene Blue B, G, Methylene Green, all brands, Methylene Grey, all brands, Dianil Yellow 3G, treated with Copper Sulphate, Dianil Yellow R, 2R, Dianil Direct Yellow S, Cresotine Yellow G, Dianil Orange G, Toluylene Orange R, Dianil Brown 2 G, G, MH, Dianil Japonine G, Dianil Pink BD, Dianil Crimson B and G, Dianil Fast Red PH, Dianil Violet H, Dianil Indigo O, treated with Copper Sulphate, Dianil Azurine G, treated with Copper Sulphate, Dianil Black N, CR, ES. ~=j©<=- 2 ii — 18 14. COTTON COLOURS FAST TO VULCANISING. • 1 cloths are rendered waterproof by a treatment with caoutchouc either cold or at 225—280° F. When treated cold, the cloth is impregnated with a solution of India-rubber in benzine, dried and passed through a cold solution of3°/u Sulphur dichloride in carbon disulphide. The method of Vulcanising at a high temperature is more efficient than the cold treatment. The cloth is impregnated with a rubber solution, to which some sulphur is added. The pieces are dried and treated for 1 h. under a pressure of 3 1 /* atm., whereby the colours may be more or less impaired. The following colours withstand the Vulcanizing process (the shades must not be aftertreated with metal salts). Dianil Yellow 3G, R, 2R, Oxydianil Yellow O, G, Dianil Direct Yellow S, Aurophenine, all brands, Dianil Orange G, Dianil Red 4B, 10 B, Dianil Claret Red B, G, Dianil Blue G, B, R, 2R, I R, Dianil Indigo O, Dianil Dark Blue R, Dianil Brown 3GO, G, R, M, B, BD, 3R, Dianil Orange N, Toluylene Orange R, Dianil Black CR, G, N, Aniline Black, a) hot Vulcanising: Diphenyl Black, Methylene Yellow H, Auramine, all brands, Flavophosphine 4G cone, new, R cone, new, Rosazeine Scarlet G extra. Magenta, all brands, Victoria Blue B, 4 R, Safranine O, New Magenta O, Rosazeine O, Methyl Violet (3 B, Methylene Heliotrope O, The Thiogene Colours. Dianil Yellow 3G, Oxydianil Yellow O, Cresotine Yellow G, I )ianil 1 (irect Yellow S, Dianil Yellow K. 2R, Dianil Orange G, Toluylene Orange R, Dianil Brown 3 GO, R. Paranitraniline Red, Dianil Red 4 B, 10 B, Dianil Claret Red G, b) cold Vulcanising: Dianil Blue G, B, R, 2R, 1 R, Dianil Dark Blue R, Dianil Black CR, N, Rosazeine Scarlet G extra, Thiogene Orange R, Thiogene Brown GC, GRR, S, Thiogene Catechu R, M, G, D, BD, Thiogene Cyanine O, Thiogene Blue B, Thiogene Black, all brands. — 19 — 15. ACTION OF HYDROSULPHITE ON COTTON COLOURS. A number of Coal Tar colours can be partially or totally stripped from the fibre by hydrosulphite. The hydrosulphite brands NF and AZ are the most suitable for this purpose. The bath is prepared in wooden vessels with 2,5 °/o Hydrosulphite NF cone, and 3°o Acetic Acid 60 °/o, and the material entered lukewarm. The temperature is gradually raised to the boil and the material worked at the boil for l \v to 3 /4 hour. The acetic acid can be replaced by Bisulphite. Hydrosulphite AZ Hoechst is rather cheaper than Hydrosulphite NF. In this case the bath is prepared with 3 °/o Hydrosulphite AZ (previously made into a paste with water) and 1,5 °/o Formic acid; 3 °/o Acetic Acid or Bisulphite may be used in place of the formic acid. 1. Colour totally stripped. 2. Colour partially stripped. 3. Colour withstands the treatment. Dianil Yellow 3G . . . Dianil Pure Yellow HS . Oxydianil Yellow G . . Oxydianil Yellow O . . Cresotine Yellow G . . Dianil Yellow G . . . Aurophenine O . . . . Dianil Yellow R . . . Dianil Yellow 2R . . . Dianil Direct Yellow S . Dianil Orange G . . . Dianil Orange N . . . Toluylene Orange R . . Dianil Brown 3 GO . . Dianil Brown 5 G . . . Dianil Chrome Brown G Dianil Chrome Brown R Dianil Brown 2 G . . . Dianil Japonine G . . . Dianil Brown 3R . . . Dianil Brown R . . . Dianil Brown MH . . . Dianil Brown X . . . Dianil Brown G . . . Dianil Brown M . . . Dianil Fast Brown R Dianil Fast Brown B . . Dianil Brown BR . . . Dianil Brown BD . . . Dianil Brown B . . . Dianil Brown D . . Dianil Red 4B . . . Brilliant Dianil Red R Dianil Red R . . . Delta Purpurine 5B . Dian Dian Dian Dian Dian Dian Dian Dian Dian Dian Dian Dian Dian Dian Dian Dian Dian Dian Dian Dian Dian Dian Dian 1 Fast Scarlet SBS 1 Scarlet G . . . 1 Scarlet 2R . . . 1 Pink BD . . . . 1 Fast Scarlet 4BS 1 Red 10 B. . . . 1 Fast Red PH . . 1 Crimson G . . . 1 Crimson B . . . 1 Claret Red G . . 1 Claret Red B . . 1 Violet H . . . . 1 Blue H6G . . . 1 Blue H3G . . . 1 Blue G . . . . 1 Blue B . . . . 1 Blue H2G . . . 1 Azurine G . . . 1 Blue R . . . . 1 Blue 2R . . . . 1 Blue BX . . . . 1 Blue HG . . . . 1 Indigo O . . . . 20 - Dian Dian Dian: Dian Dian Dian Dian Dian Dian Dian Dian Dian Dian Dark Blue R Dark Hlue 3R Blue 3R . Blue 4R . Green G . Green B . Dark Green Black ES Black G . Black CR Black R . Black CB Black PG Black PR Patent Dianil Black FF cone Patent Dianil Black FFC cone. . . Patent Dianil Black FFA extra cone. . Patent Dianil Black R\V extra Patent Dianil Black EB cone. . . . Patent Dianil Black FB cone. . . . Turkey Red 3 litraniline Red 2 Azophor Red .... J Aniline Black :; Diphenvl Black 3 Indigo MLB Indigo MLB/T 2 THE DYEING OF COTTON IN ITS UNSPUN STATE. A. LOOSE COTTON. The dyeing of loose cotton was primarily taken up in order to produce multicoloured fancy yarns which were composed either of different fibres or contained the same kind of material. At first Merino Yarns, containing wool and cotton were thus successfully manufactured ; gradually however quite a variety of yarns appeared on the textile market, which contained differently coloured cotton only, or represented mixtures of coloured and undyed cotton. In all cases the cotton was handled in the loose state and as such spun into these various yarns. But this developed also — as a matter of course — another application of loose cotton: specially strong one-coloured weft yarns, which required to be dyed through, were manufactured from material which was dyed in the loose state. Moreover this process enabled the spinner to save time, and diminish waste, (during the manufacture) and thus actually meant more economical working throughout. Loose cotton was originally dyed exclusively in copper vessels which were heated direct by fire; these » furnaces « were soon replaced by cisterns, heated by steam pipes , and now the dyeing operations are often carried out in mechanical dyeing machines. All cotton colours are suitable for this branch of dyeing (loose cotton dyeing) with the exception of alizarines which render the fibre unsuitable for spinning. Indigo is seldom dyed on loose cotton, only for special requirements (as to perfect penetration) the Hydrosulphite vat is employed in mechanical machines. Basic colours are dyed in cisterns ; they are not suitable for machine dyeing. The cotton is generally entered into the boiling tannin or sumach bath in the evening, the bath kept at the boil until the cotton is well wetted; the steam is then turned off and the goods allowed to steep until the morning. The cotton is then lifted, hydroextracted, and worked in a cold tartar emetic bath for about ^2 hour. The cotton is hydroextracted without washing, entered into the cold dye bath, and worked with poles; the temperature is gradually raised to 120 — 140° F., or eventually to the boil if the colour does not equalize well; it is finally hydroextracted and dried. The direct Dianil Colours can be dyed in open vessels or on mechanical machines. The dry cotton is entered into the boiling dyebath which is pre] tared with the necessary ingredients; worked until the shade is level, and then left at the boil for about one hour. In this manner, lots up to 300 lbs can be worked at a time. Small addi- tions of Turkey Red Oil to the dyebath effect the wetting of the material rapidly and thoroughly. For light shades and when employing dyestuffs which do not equalize easily it is advisable to add the salt to the bath alter working the cotton for some time. The proportion of dyeliquid in the open vessel is generally 1:15 (to weight of material) whilst in mechanical machines more concentrated liquids are required (1:6 to 1 : 10) according to the construction of the machine. The additions of salt and soda vary according to the concentration of the bath i. e. when dyeing in concentrated baths less salt and soda is required. The bath is prepared for 1. light Dianil shades with about 1 oz. Solvay Soda per 6 gallons liquid. ~. ., , , I l l k — 2 oz. Solvay Soda and 2. medium Dianil shades about I ' .,, , ' | lo oz. (jlauber s Salt cryst., v> t-, i tv i u i u I 3 oz - Solvay Soda, and 3. Dark Dianil shades about „_ ^, , , . I do oz. Glauber s Salt, cryst. An addition of 1 oz. Turkey Red Oil per 6 gallons liquid for light shades favours the equalizing. For each individual dyestuff the proportions, especially those of soda, may vary; further particulars may be found on page 13-1 (Vol. 1). Only very soluble and level dyeing colours and clear soft (or corrected) waters are suitable for mechanical machines ; the dyebath has to be boiled up with soda before use. The following dyestuffs are suitable for mechanical machines : Dianil Yellow 2R, 3G, Dianil Pink BD, Dianil Direct Yellow S, Dianil Scarlet G, 2R, Oxy Dianil Yellow O, Dianil Brown 3GO, R, BD, Mil, Cresotine Yellow G, Dianil Japonine G, Aurophenine O, Dianil Fast Brown B & R, Primuline O, Dianil Green G, Dianil Orange G, N, Dianil Dark Green B, Toluylene Orange R, Dianil Blue, all brands, Dianil Claret Red li, G, Dianil Azurine G, Dianil Violet H, Dianil Dark Blue 3R, 1 lianil Crimson B & G, Dianil Indigo O, Dianil Red R, IP, 6B, 10B, Dianil Black G, R, CB, CR, Brilliant Dianil Red R, R cone, Patent Dianil Black FF cone, Delta I'm purine 5B, EB cone, EF cone, FB. Dianil Fast Scarlet 4BS, 8BS, — 23 — The most simple of all mechanical appliances are the so-called packing machines. The cotton is firmly pressed and packed into a moveable cage which fits into a cistern containing the dyeliquid. The liquid is caused to circulate through the goods by mechanical appliances, injectors, elevators or pumps. The circul- ation is entertained for 1 hour for dark shades, and comparatively less time for light shades. One of the first constructions of this kind is illustrated by fig. 1, this apparatus can also be used for hank dyeing. Glauber's salt is added in several portions during the course of dyeing and improves equalizing. Crystallized Glauber's salt is preferable to the calcined product on account of its solubility. After dyeing, the cotton is hydroextracted. Sometimes it is previously washed. If necessary it is aftertreated with metal salts in the same machine. The washed cotton is treated for 20—30 min. at 160—180° F. with the metal salt solution, and is then washed, hydroextracted and dried. Fig. 1. Developing with Azophor Red is carried out in a similar manner at the ordinary temperature. Also the diazotizing and developing processes are generally carried out in the dyeing machine after dyeing, the material is rinsed until perfectly cold. Then the acid nitrite liquid is circulated, the goods rinsed again, and finally developed. — 24 — When using open vessels, the cotton is taken out after dyeing, thoroughly cooled and then diazotized and developed in special wooden cisterns. The intermediate rinsing between the two operations may be omitted. A rinsing machine is sometimes employed for carrying out these operations. Primuline Red is frequently developed in this manner. Shades produced on loose cotton with 1 >ianil colours are frequently topped with Basic colours, to enhance the beauty and brilliancy. Up to '/s °/o may be a] >i 'lied in the washing machine, if more dyestuff is required, the material is treated in a separate cistern with the addition of acetic acid ; previous to topping the goods are rinsed. ( Occasionally direct blacks are topped with Aniline Black in order to deepen the shade and to increase the fastness to washing. For particulars see page 201 (Vol. I Loose cotton is dyed with Thiogene Colours in open vessels or in mechanical machines; all appliances must be constructed of iron. Practical experience has shown, that shades dyed in the cistern turn out what fuller than those produced in mechanical machines. The dyestuffs are dissolved in wooden vessels with the necessary amount hum sulphide and soda and the solution poured into the dyebath, which is previously boiled up with some soda; then salt is added. The dry material is entered into the boiling dye liquid, and the cotton well worked with poles for a quarter of an hour; then it is left for s /* hour in the simmering bath, after this, it is lifted out onto trays and the superfluos liquid allowed to run back into the vessel; finally the cotton is hydroextracted in an iron or lead- covered hydroextractor and rinsed. dyeing methods in mechanical machines follow closely those employed for Dianil Colours. The necessary additions of salts for the Thiogene baths of various concentration are given on page 147 and 156 in Vol, 1. Especially the black Thiogene Colours have found ample application for loose material as their manipulation is extremely simple: f. e. Logwood Black has been largelj replaced by Thiogene Black and cannot any longer compete successfully with the latter. The fastness properties of Thiogene Black are in some respects equal to and in others excel those of Aniline Oxidation Black. The liquid brands of the Thiogene Blacks present undoubtedly the most handy form of application. Shades produced with Thiogene Colours on loose cotton are generally softened after dyeing. The softening operation deepens the shades considerably and at the same time makes the fibre more pliable for spinning. It is therefore almost — 25 — always applied to Blacks. A fat or oil-emulsion is prepared by boiling 1 — 2% of soft soap and the same amount of vegetable oil with water, and heating the cotton in this emulsion at 50°. Finally the cotton is hydroextracted. On account of their great brilliancy, the Resorcine and Azo Colours, the Eosines, Erythrosines, Phloxines, Brilliant Oranges etc. are either dyed in self shades on loose cotton or are employed for topping red and pink shades which were dyed with colours of another group. The Direct effects are generally produced on bleached material (page 205 Vol. 1). The dyeing of Aniline Black and the production of Insoluble Azo Colours on loose cotton has been treated in the second part of this work. See Vol. 1 pag. 208 resp. 228. 2a u &, H. Hi — LijRARY North Carolina state College 26 B. DYEING OF CARDED COTTON. Loose cotton always contains a considerable amount of impurities which in dyeing take up dyestuff. It is clear, therefore, that more colour will be used in dyeing loose cotton in the raw state than in dyeing cleaned and carded material. The impurities vary in different kinds of cotton and amount to 8 an average. To dye cotton in a carded condition enables the spinner to use his carding machines for undyed material only, the cards, therefore, remain free from dyed bits and need not be cleaned so often. All this means saving of time and labour and naturally increases the production. Carded cotton is dyed in mechanical, principally in packing machines. Recently, however, several new systems have been tried for dyeing carded material in a similar manner to cops and cheeses (these will be treated later on). The method of dyeing closely follows that described above for loose cotton ; it differs, however, in the manner of packing, owing to the fluffy state of the material. More care must be exercised than is necessary for cotton in a raw tate. The carded material is made into bundles and these bundles are wrapped up singly in thin cloths and pressed into the cage ; dyeing, rinsing etc. is carried out in the same manner as when working with raw cotton, and the directions for the use of the dyestuffs are likewise the same. --=*§*=>- — 27 C. DYEING OF COTTON ROVINGS. The manipulation of cotton as cotton rovings has still greater advantages. In this state it has already passed through a series of spinning operations and may be considered as loosely twisted thread. Rovings are dyed on crests in specially constructed mechanical machines. The directions set forth for loose cotton and carded material are also available for the dyeing of rovings. a@»- When dyeing loose material it is not absolutely necessary for all lots to match each other exactly, as in the course of its manufacture the cotton is thoroughly mixed so that small unevennesses etc. are equalized. Carded material must be worked more accurately than loose cotton ; although it is possible to equalize small differences of shade, still more care has to be displayed on the part of the workman to arrive at a satisfactory result. Cotton rovings must be dyed exactly to shade; the threads run already parallel to each other and are not further intermixed in the course of the sub- sequent manipulations. Therefore uneven results would be obtained if the individual lots differ in shade. For this reason the dyeing of cotton rovings has not been developed to any considerable extent. The patterns on page 29 illustrate yarns dyed as loose cotton; those on page 33 illustrate materials produced from cotton which was dyed in the loose state. — 28 — YARNS SPUN OF DYED LOOSE COTTON. 29 Directions for patterns on page 28. 1. 2. Melange Yarn Melange Yarn. Light Brown. Light Grey. 80°/o white cotton 95 °/o white cotton 5 °/o brown cotton, dyed jh ith 5°/o black cotton, dyed with 7,5 °/o Thiogene Black BRR cone. (Old bath.) 3- Melange Yarn. Light Grey. 90% white cotton 3 °/o blue cotton, dyed with 4°/o Dianil Blue ET 7 °/o black cotton, dyed with 7,5 °/o Thiogene Black BRR cone. (Old bath.) 2% Dianil Brown 2G l°/o Dianil Brown BD 15 °/o brown cotton, dyed with 1,5 °/o Dianil Brown X 0,1 °/o Patent Dianil Black FF cone. pat. 4. Melange Yarn. Drab. 80°/o white cotton 10 °/o brown cotton, dyed with 2°/o Dianil Brown MH 5 °/o brown cotton, dyed with 2% Dianil Fast Brown R 5 °/o brown cotton, dyed with 2°/o Dianil Brown 2G 1 °/ Dianil Brown BD. 5. Melange Yarn. Light Blue. 85°/o white cotton 2 °/o blue cotton, dyed with 0,8 °/o Marine Blue BI (Tannin- Antimony) 13°/o blue cotton, dyed with 2°/ Dianil Blue 2 G. Melange Yarn. Brown. 60°/o white cotton 10 °/o brown cotton, dyed with 2°/ Dianil Brown 5G 30°/o brown cotton, dyed with 2 °/o Dianil Japonine G. Melange Yarn. Green. 50°/o white cotton 50 °/o green cotton, dyed with 6°/o Thiogene Green GL extra. (Old bath.) Melange Yarn. Green. 65°/o white cotton 30°/o green cotton, dyed with 2°/o Dianil Green B 5% black cotton, dyed with 7,5 °/o Thiogene Black BRR cone. (Old bath.) 11. Nap Yarn. Melange Yarn. Brown. 40°/o white cotton 20°/o brown cotton, dyed with 3°/o Dianil Brown 3 GO 0,5 °/o Patent Dianil Black FF cone. pat. 15 °/o brown cotton, dyed with 2,5 °/o Dianil Brown 3 GO 25°/o brown cotton, dyed with 2 °/o Dianil Japonine G. 10. Melange yarn. Dark Grey. 50°/o white cotton 50 °/o black cotton, dyed with 7,5 "fo Thiogene Black BRR cone. (Old bath.) Green : 3,5 % Dianil Green B. Brown: 1,5 °/o Dianil Brown 5 G. 12. Nap yarn. Claret: 3°/o Dianil Claret Red G Brown: 3,5 °/o Dianil Brown 3 GO. 30 Directions for patterns on page 28. 13. Nap Yarn. Blue Ground : 1,5 °/o Dianil Dark Blue R 1,5 "., Dianil Bine I'.X Nap- : I topped with Malachite : and Auramine O. Blue Nap^ : 1 °/ Victoria Blue B on Tannin mordant. 1-1. Jaspe Yarn. Fleshcolour White. Dyed on bleached material in mechanical machine 1,2 ' j rhiogi iic I 'range RR. (I Bath.) 15. Jaspe Yarn. Blue/ White. Dyed on raw material in mechanical machine I biogene Cyanine O. I Bath ) Steamed. 17. Jaspe Yarn. Black/White. Dyed on raw material in mechanical machine 8°/o Thiogene Black MM cone. (I lid Bath.) 19. Jaspe Yarn. Brown White, Dyed on raw material in mechanical machine Ihiogene Brown tIC Thiogene Brown S (I Bath.) 21. Solid Pink. Dyed on bleached loose cotton in an open vessel 2°/o Phloxine OOOO Alum. 16. Jasp6 Yarn. Yellow -brown White. Dyed on bleached material in mechanical machine I biogene Orange RG (I Bath.) 18. Jaspe Yarn. Pink/White. I ileached material in mechanical machine 1,25 °/o Dianil Fast Scarlet 8BS. (I Bath.) 20. Jaspe Yarn. Black Yellow. Black dyed on raw material same as No. 17 Yellow on bleached material in mechanical machine o Thiogene Golden Yellow AO. 22. Solid Red. ii loose material in an open Vessel 2 " o Dianil Red 4 B. 23. Fancy Yarn. Dved on raw loose cotton in mechanical machine 2,25 % Dianil Green G 1,2 ",i Patent Dianil Black FF cone. pat. 0,4 ', Aurophenine O. 25. Fancy Yarn. Dyed on raw loose material in mechanical machine 3 °;'o Dianil Indigo O 1 ' Patent Dianil Black FF cone. pat. 0,4 °/o Dianil Red I B, 24. Fancy Yarn. Dyed on raw loose material in mechanical machine 3,75 °/o Patent Dianil Black FF cone. pat. 0,4 °/o Dianil Red 4 B. 26. Fancy Yarn. Dyed on raw loose material in mechanical machine 0,96 °/o Dianil Brown 3 GO 0,84 °/ Dianil Red 4B 0,29 °/o Aurophenine O 1,4 ",o Patent Dianil Black FF cone. pat. 31 Directions for patterns on page 32. Flannelette. Flannelette. Red: 2,5 °/ Delta Purpurine 5B. Brown : Green I Green II Green III Green IV 3 0,4 0,15 » 0,8 o.l 1.0 0,6 3,2 1,2 o Dianil Fast Brown R o Dianil Dark Green B Aurophenine O Dianil Dark Green B o Aurophenine O Dianil Dark Green B o Aurophenine O o Dianil Dark Green B Aurophenine O Flannelette. R , ( 1,5 °/o Dianil Fast Scarlet 8BS \ 0,5 °/o Toluylene Orange R Blue: 2 °/ Dianil Dark Blue 3R. Flannelette. Black: 3°/o Patent Dianil Black FF cone. pat. Brown : 2 °/o Dianil Brown B Blue: 2°/o Dianil Dark Blue 3 R. Flannelette. Red: 2,5 °/o Dianil Red 4B Brown : 1,5 °/o Dianil Fast Brown R 0.5 °/ n Dianil Brown 3 GO 0,5 °/o Dianil Black CB. Sky" Blue : Flannelette. 1 °/o Dianil Blue G 0,25 °/ Dianil Blue 2R : 2 °/o Dianil Blue 2R. Waistcoat Material. Knitted with yarn No. 23 page 30. Waistcoat Material. Knitted with yarn No. 24, page 30. 10. Waistcoat Material. Knitted with yarn No. 25, page 30. Waistcoat Material. Knitted with yam No. 26, page 30. — 32 — COTTON CLOTHS MANUFACTURED FROM YARN DYED AS LOOSE MATERIAL. II. THE DYEING OF COTTON YARN. A. HANK DYEING. 1. In open vessels. Cotton yarns are dyed as raw yarn, half-bleached, or bleached, raw mer- cerized, or mercerized and bleached. The bleaching and mercerizing of cotton yarn will be treated in part IV. The most simple and most generally employed method of dyeing cotton and linen yarn is the dyeing in open vessels. The yarn is put on sticks, about 2 lbs. at a time, and turned by hand or with a stick. The barge is generally made of wood, preferably of pitchpine, and for lots of about 100 lbs. of yarn a barge of 10 feet length, 2 feet width, and 2 feet depth will be sufficient. A perforated wooden false bottom is fixed just above the steam pipes, in order to keep the liquid at a uniform tempera- ture throughout. The dyeing in open vessels necessitates a certain amount of skill on the part of the workmen. Efforts have been made to find mechanical means by which to carry on the dyeing operation, and quite a number of mechanical appliances are now in use. Our sketch, fig. 2, illustrates a machine which consists of a barge with grooved sides, in which the sticks carrying the yarn rest ; a waggon running on iron rails is fixed above the barge. This waggon contains the appliance for turning the sticks. The machine imitates the operation which is ordinarily done by hand, and turns the sticks in regular intervals. The hanks, about 4 lbs. per stick, are not only turned by the machine, but are also stretched. The yarn is turned whilst the waggon is running in one direction, on returning to its starting place, however, the turning mechanism is not in action, so that the sticks are merely replaced into the grooves they occupied previous to the turning. The movement of the waggon and the play of the mechanism goes on automatically. — 34 — r l. _ Fig. 2. Quite recently trials have been made to improve the method of yam-dyeing by connecting the separate skeins by means of special hooks and sticks to a long broad rope, and dyeing them in a similar manner and in similar machines as pieces. This method (system E. Thoen) is carried out by the firm of L. Destree, A. Wiescher & Co., Haren, Belgium, and is illustrated in fig. 3. Fig. 3. Cotton yarn which is to be dyed with basic colours, is mordanted in special barges. The boiled and (for light shades) bleached yarn is entered into — 35 — the hot tannin bath — generally in the evening — , worked for a short time, immersed under the surface of the liquid, and left therein overnight. After wringing or hydroextracting, the yarn is entered into the fixing bath, and worked at the ordinary temperature for about v ,a hour. Subsequent rinsing ensures level dyeing, but in practice this operation is frequently omitted in order to reduce the cost. The mordanted material is wrung or hydroextracted and entered into the cold dye bath containing the dyestuff solution and some acetic acid or alum. The bath is slowly heated to 120° F., and the material dyed to pattern. For light shades the yarn is sufficiently mordanted in 1 — 2 hours, and dyed cold. Finally the cotton is rinsed and dried. The amount of tannin in the mordant must necessarily be in proportion to the percentage of dyestuff; if the cotton is mordanted too strongly, the dyed results are apt to be uneven, and when insufficiently mordanted, the yarn does not exhaust the dye bath, and thus a certain amount of colour is wasted. Very dark shades of basic colours are dyed on a tannin-iron mordant ; the yarns are treated as described above. The most suitable iron salts for this process are iron sulphate, pyrolignite of iron, and iron nitrate. Whenever special brilliancy of the shade is not required, tannic acid can be replaced by the less expensive sumach leaves and extracts, whilst gall-nuts, myrabolanes etc. are only seldom used. The comparative value of these drugs as mordants will be found in part IV. -«0©E=~ Basic colours have been replaced in yarn dyeing to a large extent by the direct colours, owing to the cheap and simple method of their application. Dianil colours are dyed in wooden barges of varying sizes; generally the yarns are worked in about the 20-fold amount of liquid. The bath containing soda or soap is brought to the boil, and any scum floating on the surface is removed ; the dyestuff solution is then poured through a sieve into the bath, and finally common or Glauber's salt is added. The boiled and hydroextracted yarn is entered, and the bath brought to the boil at intervals according to the required depth of shade. For medium or dark shades, the yarn is dyed for about one hour, and then turned every 10—15 minutes; for light shades, the temperature of the liquid is advantageously kept at 80—120° F., and the necessary amount of salt is added after working for some time. These precautions ensure level results. After dyeing, the cotton is washed, hydroextracted, and dried; light shades may be hydroextracted without washing. Yarns dyed with Dianil colours are aftertreated with metal salts, or developed with Azophor Red, or diazotised and developed according to the — 36 — directions given in part II, page 136 — 141, and in a similar manner, as described for the afti'i treatment of loose cotton dyed with Dianil colours (page 23). The goods are aftertreated in the dye vessel. In order to enhance their brilliancy, both direct and aftertreated shades are frequently topped with basic colours; the direct colours act in this case as a mordant for the basic dyestuffs. The yarn is generally topped in a fresh bath, prepared with the necessary dyestuff and 3 — 5°/o acetic acid or 1— 3°/ alum (of the weight of the yarn). The yarn is worked for some time in the cold bath containing only the acetic acid or the alum, before the dyestuff is added. Direct Blacks are often used in combination with Aniline Black, as was briefly described in the dyeing of loose cotton. The bottomed yarn is topped in a bath containing for every 100 lbs. of material : 3 — 5 lbs. Aniline Salt, 3—4 lbs. Sulphuric Acid 16S° Tw, 2—3 lbs. Muriatic Acid 32" Tw., l'/s lbs. Copper Sulphate, 4 — 5 lbs. Bichrome. The yarn is entered and worked cold for l /a hour; the bichrome is then added in several portions. The temperature is raised to 120° F. within l /s hour, and the yarn worked for another '/a hour, washed and eventually soaped in a hot soap bath, to which 1 lb. Logwood extract may be added. The following dyestuffs yield a suitable bottom for this process: Dianil Black CR, R, CB, G, X. Dianil Jet Black, all brands, Patent Dianil Black, all brands. -=*@«=~ On account of their extreme fastness and their very simple application, the Thiogene colours arc largely employed in yarn dyeing. When dyeing in an open cistern, the raw or boiled yarn is put into the boiling dyebath on sticks and turned quickly for 5 minutes. After turning off the steam, the yarn is worked in intervals of from 8 to 10 minutes, until the dyeing operation is finished; dark shades require 1 hour. To use ~ l r ~ shaped sticks, i e. to work under the liquid, is only advisable for Thiogene Blue B, R & RR; all other colours arc dyed in the usual manner above the surface of the liquid. The arrangement for dyeing under the surface of the liquid is skewn in fig, .Y — 37 — The dyeing cisterns contain iron pipes running along the bottom of the four sides, and are heated with indirect steam. After dyeing, the yarns are squeezed and then rinsed immediately; the squeezer consists of 2 iron squeezing rollers as illustrated in the following drawing, fig. 4. Fig. 5. The top roller is connected with a lever which lifts it from the lower roller and allows the yarn to be inserted. As a rule three rinsing baths are given ; the first one naturally contains the greatest amount of dyestuff, and its liquid is, therefore, used for replenishing the dyebath. The brigthness and fastness of Thiogene Blue B, BTL, etc. is enhanced by developing with steam and air. In a very simple manner an ordinary barge can be converted into a proper steaming installation. ■ J7?n,, J - ^ — B Fig. 6. The steaming barge contains two steam inlets a) indirect steam pipe for heating up the interior before the dyed and evenly wrung yarns are packed into it; b) direct steam pipe with air injector; the steam inlet of the latter pipe is covered with a protecting board. Both pipes are fixed below the perforated bottom of the barge. The yarns are packed on a scray some inches above the perforated bottom. The — 38 — barge is covered with a lid, and this, again, is covered with thick jute-canvas during the steaming operation. The yams are packed in three layers (smaller lots of less than 100 lbs. are arranged in two layers, leaving eventually part of the scray free). The yarns are slightly twisted before being placed into the A powerful supply of steam developes the blue within l /< hour; then tin- steam is tinned (iff, the yarns left in the box for another '/a hour, and finally taken out and rinsed. Cotton in all stages of its manufacture may be submitted to the action of steam and air. Loose cotton, cops, cheeses, etc. are generally developed in the mechanical dyeing machines. Alter steaming, small amounts of hydrogen are sometimes added to their rinsing water, the shade of the blue is thus still more brightened. Some Thiogene colours, especially Thiogene Blue B, can be developed by hanging. The yarn is wrung, then spread evenly over sticks and hung up at the ordinary temperature for 1 — 2 hours; after this, it is well washed. Another method is, to squeeze the yarn and take it at once into a lukewarm rinsing bath containing soda (1:20001, where it is worked for some time and then immersed. Finally the yarn is lifted, hung for I hour and then rinsed. Frequently the colour is developed by allowing the moist and warm yarn to lie in a heap. This method is especially employed for warps and loose cotton. Resorcine and Azo colours are dyed on cotton yarn according to methods previously described. The dyeing of Indigo, Alizarine, Aniline Black, and Diphenyl Black, also the production of Insoluble Azo colours on the fibre has been treated in part II. 2. Hank dyeing in mechanical machines. Only the so-called packing machines, as described on page 23, are used for dyeing cotton yarn in hanks. The yarn is packed into the dye vessel in 1 lb lots, or slung together to chains of 20 lbs., and pressed down firmly by a srewable lid. Most machines of this kind hold 100, 200, or 300 lbs. of material; machines of greater capacity are seldom used. Dark shades are dyed on raw yarn, for light and medium shades, however, the material is first boiled in the machine. After dyeing, the liquid is drawn off into another vessel, and the material rinsed, and eventually soaped, or after- treated in the apparatus. — 39 — The Dianil and Thiogene colours arc especially suitable for dyeing yarn in mechanical machines. When using Thiogene colours, however, the liquid must not be entirely drawn off after dyeing ; half of it is left in the goods, the other half replaced with water, and the so diluted liquid allowed to circulate. This operation is repeated, until the water runs off clear. In the following pages we give a selection of yarn dyeings, with recipes for weaving, knitting, and sewing yarns. The dyeing of weaving yarns occupies the most extensive place in the dyeing of hank yarns. It is employed both for multicoloured fabrics (dress goods) and for heavy plain goods which, owing to the difficulty in being dyed through, cannot be dyed in the piece. Such fabrics are heavy corset materials, mattress cloths, tent canvas, fabrics for technical uses etc. We have arranged the patterns of weaving yarns according to the groups of colours used. The direct (substantive) colours have the advantage of a simple and con- venient mode of dyeing, which causes them to be preferred for cheap staple articles. Basic colours, on account of their vividness and brilliancy, are chiefly adapted for yarns intended for special effects. Greater fastness is obtained with Thiogene Colours which, owing to their comparatively simple mode of dyeing, are ever gaining in favour, and have already become quite indispensable in large spheres of application. It is safe to predict that they will also play a great part in dyeing vegetable fabrics for military purposes. Despite the continuous inrush of new products the old representatives of fast cotton dyeing are still occupying the field. Nor is this due to the conserv- atism of the dyer. Indigo and Alizarine Red are still in their old place, and control the greatest part of fast dyeing. This is owing to the bright and full shades that distinguish these colours, and give the goods a characteristic appear- ance, unobtainable with other dyestuffs ; not to mention their well proved properties of fastness, whereby the goods retain a fine appearance, even after years of wear. --a©c=~ — 40 — Recipes for page 41. 1. I 1 i Hi mil Direct Yellow S. ■-'. Dianil Klue H 6 G. I i mil Pink BD. 1% Dianil Blue II 2 G diazotised and developed with /'-X.iphtol. 5. 4% Dianil Fast Scarlet 4 BS. 1% Dianil Blue G. nil Oi inge X aftertreated with 2°/o Azophor Red PN and l°/o sodium acetate. 3°/o Dianil Green G 1,25% Auiophenine O. l,5°/o Dianil Violet H. 10. 4°/o Dianil Green B. 11. i .. I ■■ mil Chrome Bro\i n K. aftertreated with 2°/o copper vitriol irome potash . -tic acid 12° Tw. 12. 4°/o Dianil Blue H 3 G 2°/o Dianil Blue R. 13. I" . I oluj li ne ' '< inge R. aftertreated with 2° o A.. .ph.. i Red PN l°/o sodium acetate. 14. 4,5°/o Dianil Darkbluc K. 15. 4,5 ' o Dianil Brown B aftertreated with 2°/ Azophoi Red PN. l°/o sodium acetate. 16. 0,5 | Methj li ne Heliotrope O. 17. Methylene Yellow H. 18. tin salt I otton Light Blue O sol. 5 °/o alum re vol. I page 130). 19. 0,4 °,o Rosazeine 4 « » extra upon oil mordant (compare vol. I page 131). 20. 2°/o -Methylene Blue 2B cone. 21. •_" o Janus Yellow R. 22. L,25°/« Anramine O 0.1 l '/o Methylene tiieen GG 0,03", o Brilliant Green ciy-.t. extra. 23. 2 °/o Rosazeine 4 ( 1 . 24. 1,6 Methylene Blue 2B cone. l,2°/o Methylene Heliotrope O 0,1° - tndophene Blue B. 25. 1,5* o Rosazeine Scarlet G extra. 26 0,5 °/o Violet crystals O. 27. 2,5°/o Salranine AX extra. 28. Methylene Cm-en GG i .-How H. 29. 27 Methylene Violet 3RA extra 30. Methylene (irecn extra yellow I". 1 °/o Auraminc O. 41 WEAVING YARNS. Dianil Colours. Basic Colours. 14 3a ii — 42 — Recipes for page 43. 1. 10% Thiogcne Golden Yellow AO. 15°/o Iliiogene Orange KK. 3. 15°/o Thiogene Brown GRR. 4. 15% Thiogene Brown RR. 15°/o Thiogene Catechu R. 15% Thiogene Green GL extra. 15°/o Thiogene Rubine O. 8. 15% Thiogene Rubine O aftertreated with 2 . Copper vitriol eerie acid 12° Tw. 20% Thiogene Violet B. 1". 5% Thiogene Cyanine O. 11. 15% Thiogene Blue B steamed with air. 12. 15° Ihiogene Blue RR aftertreated with Tome potash "Pper vitriol tie acid 12° Tw. 13. liogene Navy Blue R cone. 14. 15% Thiogene Diamond Black V. 15. 12% Thiogene Black M cone. 16. On Chrome Mordant: (compare vol. I, page 190 Method C.) 2,4 m Alizarine Yellow 5G powder. 17. Proceed same as 16. 12% Alizarine Yellow GG paste. 18. Proceed same as 16. arine Yellow K j ste, 19. New Red Method. (Compare vol. I, page 180.) 12 ,i Alizarine Orang bo! On Chrome Mordant: Proceed same as 16. 12% Alizarine Orange paste. 21. Proceed same as 16. 12% Alizarine Red 2 AG paste 20%. 22. Proceed same as 16. 12% Alizarine Claret R paste 15%. 23. On Iron Mordant: (Compare vol. I, page 189.) 5°/o Alizarine Red Ko. 1 paste 20%. 24. Proceed same as 23. izarine Red IB paste 20%. 25. Proceed same as 16. 2,5% Alizarine Brown paste Alizarine Yellow R paste. 26. Proceed same as 16. 12" o Alizarine Brown paste. 27. Proceed same as 16. rul( ine s\Y ■ 1 Alizarine Yellow .">G powder. 28. Proceed same as 16. 12% CeruleSne s\\ 29. Blue Fast to Bleaching. (Compare vol. I, page 191. Method D.) 4% Alizarine Blue SB powder. 30! Proceed same as 29. 1 i ' .. Aii. nine Blue F j rine Red No. 1, paste 20%. — 43 - WEAVING YARNS. Thiogene Colours. Alizarine Colours. 16 22 23 'J I 26 27 2S 29 30 — 44 — Recipes for pa l. Simplified Method. On bleached yarn : 0,4 Alizarine Red IB paste 20°/o. I same as 1. On bleached > irn: 0,8 °/o Alizarine Red 1 B paste 20° ,.- 3. Proceed same as 1. On bleached yarn : 1,8 °/o Alizarine Red 1 B paste 20 V 4. Proceed same as 1. On bleached yarn : 3,5% Alizarine Red IB paste 20°/o. Proceed same as 1. 6°/o Alizarine Red IB paste 20°/o. 6. , New Red Method. (Compare vol. I, page 180.) 10°/o Alizarine Red BAG paste 20 o ,'o. Proceed same as 6. 9% Alizarine Red 2 AG paste 20°/o. lo/ Alizarine Claret R paste 15°/o- Proceed same as 6 7»/c A ' 20«/i' R paste 1.j»o. So„ Alizarine Red No. 1 paste 20°/o. .", "„ Alizarine Claret R paste 15°/o- 10. Proceed same as 6. ■1" ., Alizarine Red X... 1 paste 20%. 1""„ Alizarine Claret R paste 15°/o. 11. On Mixed Mordant: Alumina-Iron Mordant. re vol. I, pa- in" „ Alizarine Red No. 1 paste 20%. 12. Old Red Method. i 1 i ''ni ■■' vol. 1 . p ige 178.) 1 ,, Ali: irine Red No. 1 paste 20%. 13. Proceed same as 12. 7% Alizarine Red IB paste 20%. 14. Proceed same • 12. 1" ,, Alizarine Red 2Abl. paste 20%. 15. Proceed same as 12. 12% Alizarine Red 2 AG paste 20%. Of the annexed patterns of Indigo dyeings Nos. 16, 17, 18 and 19 "re dyed with Indigo MLB in the zinc-lime vat, Nos. 20. 21 and 22 with Indigo MLB l in the hydrosulphite vat, Nos. 23, 24, 25 and 26 with Indigo Ml i; R in the hydrosulphite vat, Nos. 27, 28, 29 and 30 with Indigo MLB RR in the hydrosulphite vat. rding the dyeing operation see vol. I. pages 158, 164 and lti7 — 169. WEAVING YARNS. Alizarine Red. Indigo. 46 — Directions for patterns on page 47. 0,25 °/ Oxydianil Yellow G 0,25% I>ianil Direct Yellow S. il Yellow G i lianil Direct Yellow S. 1,5° o ' »xidianil Yellow G 1,5 % Diaoil Direct Yellow S. 4. 1% Thiogene Cyanine G. 5. 3% Thiogene Cyanine G. 6. 9°/,i Thiogene Cyanine ii. 7. 3°/o Thiogene Orange RR. 8. 9 % Thiogene Orange RR. 9. l.j" o Thiogene Orange KR. 10. 3% Thiogene Green HI, extra. 11. 9 °/o Thiogene Green BL extra. 12. 15% Thiogene Green BL extra. 13. 2% Primuline O Diazottsed and developed « itli Claret Red 1 > \ 14. 4% Primuline O Diazotised and developed with Claret Red Dei 15. 8% Primuline O m1 and developed w iili Claret Red Developer. 16. Indigo MLB KR. 17. Indigo MLB/RR. 18. . MLB KR. 19. 1 % 'i i ' ck B. 20. 5% Thiogene Diamond Black B. 21. 10% Thiogene Diamond Black B. 22. 2 ° o Thiogene Yellow GG Thiogene Green GL extra. 23. 6 % Thiogene Yellow 1,25% Thiogene Green GL extra. 24. 1,6% Thiogene Yellow GG 4 % Thiogene Green GL extra. 25. 0,75% Alizarine IB Paste 20%. 26. 1,8 °/o Alizarine IB Paste 20%. -7. 4,5% Alizaiine IB Paste 20%. 2cT Indigo MLB 1. 29. Indigo Ml B 30 Indigo MLB 1. 31. 3% Thiogene Rubine O, Sulphate. 32. 9 % Thiogene Rubine O, treated with Copper Sulphate. 33. I hiogene Rubine O, treated with Copper Sulphate. Methylene Green extra yellow cone. 0,5% Methylene Yellow 11. 1,5% Methylene Green extra yellow cone. 1,5% Methylene Yellmv 11. 3,5 % Methylene Green extra yellow cone. thylene Yellow H. 3% Thiogene Brov 38. 9% Thiogene Brown GR. 39. l'i" o Thiogene Brown GR. 40! i biogene Blue R. 41. ne Blue R. 42. 15% Thiogene Blue R. — 47 — MERCERIZED EMBROIDERY YARN. (Dyed in an open vessel. — 48 — Directions for patterns on page 49. 1. 10. On bleached cotton Aurophenine O. ( in Mr [i lua futtOIl 0,12-°/o Auropbenine O. On bleached cotton 0,6 °/o Auropbenine O 0,005 "/o DianU Brown D. .nil Violet H i let 8BS. 11. L,5 i ,. Hi, ml Vriin« 3G ii 2 ' „ In mil Azurine G. 12. 1,5 °/o Dianil Yellow 3G 0,5 °/ Dianil B 0,1 °/ Dianil Dark Green B 0,15 °/o Dianil Azurine G. On bleached cotton 1,5 "/'o Auropbenine O 0,008 "/o Dianil Brown D. On bleached cotton 0,23 °/o Dianil Blue G. On bleached cotton 0,35 "/a Dianil Blue G. 1,65 °/o Dianil Blue G 0,22 °o Dianil Azurine G. 0,12 °/o Dianil Crimson B. 0,2 c /o Dianil Crimson B. ,3 I 5 ulet 8BS. 2,5 °/o Dianil Fast Scarlet 8BS. 2,5 °/o Dianil Crimson B. 14. 5°'o Dianil Crimson B. 15. 1,2 °/ Dianil Black T 0.03 °/o Dianil Brown 2G 0,02 °/o Toluylene I h 0,025 °/o Aurophenine O. 16. 2,5 °/o Dianil Black T 0,25 % Dianil Brow D J 0,12 °/o Aurophenine O 0,02° ,i Toluylene Orange R. 17. 4 °/ Dianil Brown 2G 0,3°/o Dianil Black I 0,2 °/o Dianil Fast Scarlet 4BS. 18. 1,5 °/ Dianil Brown 2G ] Brown 1> 1,25 °/o Dianil Crimson B. 49 — Direction for patterns on page 50- 0,08 °/o DianU Black T 0,005 °/o Aurophenine O. 20. 0,12% Dianil Black T 0,02% DiJnil Brown 5G. 21. 0,3 % Dianil Black T 0,05% Dianil Brown 2G 0,05 % Aurophenine O. 28. 2,5 %, Tannic Acid 1,25 °/o Tartar Emetic 1,8 °/ Malachite Green Cryst. extra 2,4 % Auramine II 2 % Acetic Acid. 29. 2,5 °/ Dianil Brown 2G 0,12 °/ Dianil Fast Scarlet 4BS. 22. 0,7 % Dianil Black T 0,28 % Dianil Brown 5 G. 4,5 °/ Dianil Brown 2G 0,5 % Dianil Fast Scarlet 4 BS 0,55 °/o Dianil Black T. 23. 0,4 °/o Aurophenine O 0,04% Dianil Brown 5G 0,04 °/o Dianil Black T. 24. 1,25 °/o Aurophenine O 0,1 % Dianil Brown 5G 0,02% Dianil Black T. 25. 2,25 % Aurophenine O 0,5 % Dianil Brown 3 GO 0,01 °/ Dianil Dark Green B. 31. 3°/o Dianil Blue G. 32. 2 % Dianil Blue G 0,2 °/o Aurophenine O. 33. 0,75 °/o Dianil Brown 5G 0,12% Dianil Black T 0,04% Aurophenine O. 26. 2 1 % °/o Tannic Tartar Acid Emetic 0,45 % Malachite Green Cryst. 1 °/ Auramine II 2 °/ Acetic Acid. 2 % Dianil Brown 5G 0,5 % Dianil Black T 0,25 °/o Dianil Crimson B. 4,5 °/ Dianil Blue G 0,005% Dianil Dark G 2,5 % Tannic Acid 1,25% Tartar Emetic 0,8 % Malachite Green Cryst. extra 1,4 % Auramine II 2 % Acetic Acid. 3 % Dianil Blue G 1,25% Dianil Black T. — 50 SEWING COTTON. (For the direct shades, the cotton was dyed in the Obermaier-niachim- ; the basic colours were dyed in an open vessel.) 1 1 is L'" 21 25 26 l>s 33 ::i — 51 — B. WARPS. Cotton Warps are generally dyed in continuous machines which are especially constructed for this purpose. No. 7 illustrates the most generally employed warp dyeing cistern. The warps pass through this cistern repeatedly (in one direction) viz until the desired shade is obtained. For Thiogene Blacks a much bigger machine is used in order to dye the warps in one operation. This machine consists either of a range of several cisterns or of one long cistern (fig. 8) divided into 3 or more compartments and containing the same number of squeezing appliances. The boiled warps are entered white and pass alternately through the dye liquid and the various sets of squeezing rollers, they are then taken through a continuous washing machine (which generally contains compartments for warm and cold water) and finally dried. Fie. 7. A special kind of Warp dyeing machines is the following (fig. 9), con- structed by John W. Fries of Winston-Salem N. C, U. S. A. The warp passes first through trough A, containing the dyebath, then enters chamber K which is heated by indirect steam and also contains two heating drums Bi and B2, over which the warp travels up and down past the heating coil C. The chamber K further contains an inlet for direct steam, to be used if required. On leaving the box the warp passes through rings Ji and J2, then over the drums Di, D2, D3, thence over rollers E and F back over the drums, and is finally delivered over roller G near the starting trough A. (Fig. 9.) In dyeing with Sulphur Colours or Diphenvl Black the warp, previous to being dried over the drums, is passed through the washing cistern H. This contains two compartments. The first is used for topping f. e. with Basic Colours, the second for rinsing. — When dyeing with Para Red the warps are prepared with Naphtol in trough A; passed through the drying system, — 52 — then developed with Azophor Red in the first compartment of cistern H, and finally rinsed in the second compartment and dried. When a warp is dyed with Indigo, the dyeing trough A must be rather larger, in order to allow the warp to pass several times through the dye solution. In dyeing warps on the beam, the dye liquid is pressed alternately from without to within and from within to without through the yarn wound upon a perforated cylin- der. Figs 10 and 11 are sketches of the Schubert-Apparatus, constructed by the Zittauer Maschinenfabrik und Eisen- giesserei, which illustrate the dyeing of warps on the beam. The apparatus contains a vacuum and compressed air-pump, high level cistern for preparing the dyebath, and connexion . pipes. These are so arranged that the (^ perforated cylinder, upon which the warp " is beamed, is firmly held between their joints; moreover thej- can be lowered or raised at will. On starting the cylinder is lowered into the dyevat and the liquid at once sucked through the material from without to within. By opening certain valves the liquid is then drawn back by the vacuum pump into the high level cistern. On changing the pump, by opening and closing different valves, the circulation is now reversed, viz. the liquid pressed through the material from within to without. Each manipulation takes about 1 min., and these are repeated until the desired shade is obtained. For this process the Dianil and Thiogene Colours are suitable. The thicker the warp on the beam and the firmer it is dressed, the greater is the resistance to the penetration of the mordant and dye liquid. Care must therefore be taken to beam the warps properly and suitably. — 53 — Fig. 9. Fig. 10. Fig. 11. The washing of the dyed material is done on the apparatus itself, as are also any necessary aftertrcatments. After the superfluous fluid has been removed the beam is lifted out of the liquid by a winding contrivance, and for further treatment passed on to the sizing machine. For goods upon which no great demands are made as to fastness to washing, the warp can be dyed in the size itself in one passage. For this the Dianil Colours are best suited. The beamed warp is passed through the trough of the sizing machine containing the hot coloured size, then squeezed through two rubber rollers, dried upon hot cylinders, and finally dressed on thi In 'am again. The sizing bath must be free from copper salts, and kept neutral or slightly alkaline according to the dyestuff used. — 3®C~ C. COPS AND CHEESES. The dyeing of cotton yarn in the form of cops and cheeses is effected in a single operation, in order to save wages, and to obviate injury to the fibre by the various mechanical processes (hanking, dyeing, respooling). Cop dyeing has only recently been perfected, so that this branch of yarn dyeing has now- become indispensable to the industry, thanks to the many rationally and accurately working apparatus. Cops and cheeses can be dyed either on mechanical dyeing apparatus working on the so-called packing system, already sketched in figure 1, or on apparatus of the creel system, or else by means of froth dyeing. In operating on the packing system, the cops are placed in layers into the dyevessel, after having plugged the paper tubes with wood, metal or rubber. In some dyeworks the spaces between the cops are filled evenly, with loose cotton or waste yarn. The vessel being filled, and the top covered with loose cotton or yarn, it is closed with a lid and the contents pressed together. Dyeing and rinsing is carried out as already described. The cops are then hydroextracted, and finally dried after removing the plugs. The cops are dried by placing them upright and singly upon the pegs of specially constructed frames, which are then taken bodily into the drying chamber. Sometimes also specially constructed mechanical machines are used for drying. The temperature and duration of the drying operation must depend on the manner of dyeing. To-day cops and cheeses arc dyed mostly in apparatus of the creel system in order to preserve the shape of the cops. The cops which are wound upon perforated tubes are put on perforated spindles affixed to the dyeing apparatus. The dye liquid is then pressed mechanically through each individual cop, a larger or smaller number of which are combined on so called cop-carriers. — 55 — These may be either fixed to the dyeing apparatus proper, or may be transportable. Fig. 12 represents a dyeing apparatus for cops and cheeses built by B. Thies of Coesfeld i. Westphalia which contains a transportable frame or carrier. Whilst, in the above described mechanical dyeing apparatus, the circulation of the liquid is effected by pumps, the Thies apparatus makes use of the latter only indirectly: by creating a vacuum by means of a pump. The fluid is sucked through in the first place, but it flows back through the material in the opposite direction by atmospheric pressure. After the material has been dyed in the above described manner, the cop frame is lifted out of the dye vessel by special contrivances, and the liquid extracted by a draining apparatus, whereby the superfluous liquid is recovered. Care must be taken that the dye liquid is quickly removed from the cops before rinsing. This can be successfully done by blowing dry high pressure steam through. Frequently also compressed air is used for the same purpose. The third method of dyeing Cops and cheeses is froth dyeing. It is speci- ally used for staple colours, upon which too great demands for the outward appearance of the cops are not made. Its inventor is C. Wanke. Fig. 13 illustrates a simple installation principally employed for dyeing cheeses. Into a cistern, about 72 inches high, 39 inch, broad and 36 inch, deep, a movable crate is fitted, the feet of which arc raised about 10 inches from the bottom of the vessel, to which is fixed a heating coil for indirect steam, with a heating surface 2*/s times as great as the bottom surface. To the dye liquid which consists of the dyestuff and sodium sulphide hut no other salts, some Turkey red oil may be added in order to increase the frothing. The material having been packed into the crate, the dye liquid which must not reach quite up to its bottom, is heated till it frothes and the crate inserted. The material is now quite covered by the froth without coming into direct contact with the dye liquid. The evaporating liquid can be replenished by direct steam being led into the cistern, or by gradual addition of hot or con- densed water. Although by this process a large amount of steam is used, its simplicity has so manv advantages that they have contributed to introduce it into practice. Froth dyeing permits the working of lots of 200 lbs of cheeses. The proportion of dye liquid to weight of material is about 1 : 4 or 1 : 5. After dyeing the crate is lifted out of the cistern, brought into an adjoining rinsing bath, and after cooling the material is washed in the hydroextractor by squirting cold water upon it. If the old bath is not used again, it is advis- able to rinse in the apparatus itself. Since for all mechanical machine dyeing concentrated dye liquids are required which have to be pressed through the material, only very soluble dyestuffs and clear, soft, or corrected waters are suitable. Instead of common salt the more soluble Glauber's salt is used, or the salt is entirely dispensed with in dyeing. Small additions of Turkey red oil favour an even penetration. The dyeing operation is carried out at the boil: the material is dyed in the machine for l ja l'j hours, and rinsed in the same machine. 57 Dyestuffs suitabl Primuline O, Dianil Yellow 3G, R, 2R, Dianil Pure Yellow HS, Oxydianil Yellow G, O, Aurophenine O, Dianil Direct Yellow S, Dianil Orange G, N, Toluylene Orange R, Dianil Brown 3 GO, 2G, 3R, G, BD, B, Dianil Chrome Brown R, Dianil Red 4B, 10 B, Deltapurpurine 5B, Dianil Scarlet 4BS, 8 BS, Dianil Pink BD, Dianil Fast Red PH, Dianil Crimson B, Dianil Claret G, B, Dianil Violet H, Dianil Blue H6G, H3G, G, B, 2R, BX, HG, 3R, 4R, Dianil Azurine G, e for mechanical machine dyeing: Dianil Indigo O, Dianil Dark Blue 3R, Dianil Green B, G, Dianil Dark Green B, Dianil Black ES, CR, CB, Patent Dianil Black, all brands, Thiogene Golden Yellow AO, Thiogene Yellow GG, G, R, R1H, Thiogene Orange OG, RG, R, RR, Thiogene Brown GC, GR, GRR, RR, S, Thiogene Khaki O, Thiogene Rubine O, Thiogene Cyanine G, O, Thiogene Blue B, R, RR, Thiogene Dark Blue BL, BTL, Thiogene Green, B, GG, BL extra, GL extra, Thiogene Black, all brands except: Thiogene Diamond Black B, V, H2G, R, Thiogene Black 4B cone, 5B cone. Indigo MLB, MLB/R, MLB;RR, MLB,T. -- =xS*^- AFTERTREATMENT FOR ALTERING THE HANDLE OF GOODS. In the dyeing of cotton there occurs frequently a loss in weight varying according to the material and the mode of dyeing, and is attributable either to boiling, bleaching or dyeing. Hereby and by the absorption of the dyestuff the lustre and the elasticity of the fibre may be more or less diminished. In order to obviate this, several methods of aftertreatment have been devised, to improve or alter the handle and embellish the shade. These methods have chiefly been introduced for cops, cheeses and hank-yarns. Piece goods are improved by finishing. A. Substances used for increasing the suppleness and lustre: Olive oil soap, softening, Monopole soap, Turkey red oil, cocoa fat, pigs fat, tallow, olive oil, rape-seed oil, palm oil, car- bide oil, glycerine. B. Substances for improving the handle: Acetic acid, Tartaric acid, lactic acid, formic acid, also the mineral acids, acetate of iron and acetate of alumina. 4a ii — 58 — C. Substances for finishing and filling. Starch, dextrine, potato flour, glue, vegetable glue, glucose, syrup, extract of sumac, tannin, Glauber's salt, common salt, magnesium sulphate, sulphate of zinc. I. PRODUCTION OF A SOFT HANDLE. A. Thiogene Colours, Developing Colours, and Colours aftertreated with metal salts. A soft wool-like handle, which is chiefly required for hosiery goods and fancy fabrics, is produced in the following manner: a) The goods are treated after dyeing for */* — */ a nour m a hath contain- ing 4 °/o olive oil soap, either cold or warm, according to the nature of the colour. They are then brought, without being wrung out into a bath contain- ing i| 2 — \ oja soda, passed through twice, and rinsed in cold water free from lime. b) A still better result is obtained by an aftertreatment with olive oil soap, ) previously boiled 2 °/o cocoa fat 1 together with some water, in a warm bath at 176° F. The material is passed through eight times, wrung off or hydroextracted and dried at about 104 — 122" F. Besides the soft handle this aftertreatment deepens the shades especially in blacks and browns. By the following methods c and d not only a wool-like handle but also a considerable deepening of the shade is obtained. c) The yarn which has been well rinsed after dyeing, is passed five times through a bath containing 2% acetate of soda, at 122° F. It is then rinsed in cold water, and brought into a fresh bath of 176'' F. containing 2°/o carbide oil BX (Korndorfer), and 1 1,2 " i soda calc. After being passed six or seven times, the yarn is taken out, cooled by hang- ing, then hydroextracted, and finally dried at 105—122" F. d) Carbide oil and soda can be replaced by 0,5 °/o wheat starch, 1,2 "o monopole soap or Turkey red oil, 2 " ., lard or tallow. A short steaming for about 10 minutes after softening and drying increases the lustre and elasticity of the yarns. At the same time the loss in weight caused by overheating is thereby counterbalanced. B. Basic Colours. The material is entered after dyeing into a cold bath containing 1 ' . Turkey red oil or monopole soap, passed through six or seven times, hydro- — 59 — extracted and dried at 86 — 104° F. This aftertreatment may alter the shade of some colours, which has to be taken into consideration in dyeing. C. Dianil Colours. Yarns dyed with Dianil Colours are softened by the addition of 1 '/s — 2 l /2°/o monopole soap or Turkey red oil to the dyebath. After rinsing the yarn is wrung, or hydroextracted and dried. II. PRODUCTION OF SCROOP HANDLE. A .scroop or silk handle is obtained by one or several soap baths, each followed by treatment with acid, to which several additions are made, according to the mode of dyeing. A. Thiogene Colours: The dyed yarns, after being thoroughly rinsed, are brought into a bath containing 3 — 4 °/o oilive oil soap, and worked for */a hour. The temperature depends upon the shade. The lighter colours are dyed colder, in order to shade them with substantive or basic dyestuffs, if required. Black or deep shades are soaped hot or at the boil, which is most favourable to the handle. The material is then rinsed in tepid water, and brought into a fresh bath containing. 3 — 5 °' acetic acid, formic acid or lactic acid, 2 — 3°/o Tartaric acid, and Vs — 1 °/o glue, starch or potatd flour. It is passed through seven or eight times, hydroextracted and dried. For twisted or weaving yarns an addition is made to the bath, shortly before entering, of an oil emulsion consisting of 1 — 1 '/a °/o olive oil, palm oil or cocoa oil, x /2-V/o soda, Va — 3 /-t°/o soap solution 1:10. First the oil and soda are mixed, the soap solution is added, and the whole boiled with direct steam. The emulsion must froth and no particles of fat must separate. It is added to the slightly heated softening bath and well stirred. The goods are then entered at once, passed through six to seven times, hydroextracted without being previously rinsed, and dried at 104 — 122 ° F. The yarn must be stretched before dyeing. B. Basic Colours. After being treated with tannin, or with Tartar emetic, the yarn is mani- pulated for '/a hour in a bath at 113° F. containing 4°'o olive oil soap; then passed through warm water at 86° F., afterwards treated in a fresh acid bath with 3 — 4°/o hydrochloric acid or sulphuric acid, and passed once through cold — GO — water. Finally it is dyed with an addition of acetic acid, rinsed in cold water, and softened at 77- 86° F with 4 — 6°/o acetic acid or formic acid, and '•j — 1 ";'o glue, potato flour or starch. The shade can, if necessary, be improved in the softening bath. The yarn is dried at 104° F C. Dianil Colours. The yarn is dyed by adding to the bath 2— 3°/o olive oil soap, 1 ja — l°/o soda, and the necessary amount of common salt or Glauber's salt, rinsed tepid and .softened for about 10 minutes in a fresh bath with 3 — 4°,o acetic acid, formic acid or lactic acid, 2— 3°/o Tartaric acid, x /2 — 1 °/o starch, glue or potato flour. It is then hydrocxtracted, and dried without rinsing at 104° F. These processes are suitable for both mercerized and non-mercerized yarns, but the handle turns out better in mercerized yarns. In order to give mercerised cotton a durable silk handle, the yarn is treated with soap and soda before dyeing, then brought into a mineral acid bath and rinsed. After dyeing it is treated with softening scap, soured and dried. The softening baths may be used again. III. WEIGHTING OF COTTON YARN. For certain purposes an artificial weighting of cotton yarns is desirable. It can be effected in the following manner. For 50 Kos (100 lbs) yarn 4 lbs 6 oz 2 kos syrup, 1 lbs 10 oz 0,75 kos palm oil, I ;i i oz 0,05 kos caustic soda 77" Tw., 3 x /s oz 0,1 kos soap are boiled until dissolved, and mixed with water of 86° F. The material is treated in this bath for about 1 hour, wrung out and dried. A still heavier weighting is obtained by the following method: 1,5 kos starch are well boiled; then are added 2,2 kos glucose, 2 kos magnesium chloride, 1 kos glycei ine, 0,4 kos acetic acid, and the whole diluted to 22 gallons 100 litres. The yarn is passed through this solution in lots of 1 lb, then hydrocxtracted, and dried at a moderate temperature 3 lbs 5 oz 4 lbs 14 oz t lbs oz 2 lbs 3 oz 14 oz — 61 — AFTERTREATMENT OF COPS AND CHEESES. In order to impart greater suppleness to dyed cops and cheeses they are aftertreated on the apparatus itself. For this process are used 2 — 3 °/o Turkey red oil or monopole soap, or 2 — 5 °/o olive oil soap, or 0,5 — 2 °/o glycerine. For replen : shing these softening baths half the quantity of the ingredients first used is sufficient. The sizing of dyed cheeses on the machine has recently occupied the dyeing industry, as considerable saving of time and wages could thus be effected, The difficulties lie chiefly in the fact that evenness of the inner and outer layers of the cheeses is not easily obtained. For sizing easily soluble sub- stances must be chosen. Amongst these starch dissolved with lye has proved the most suitable. 1 °'o tannin in solution is pumped through the rinsed cheeses, sucked out, and then hot starch solution circulated through the material, finally it must be dried quickly. -~3®C-- YARN PRINTING. Printed yarn finds many uses in fancy styles. This process may serve to imitate two-coloured twisted yarns, and may also be applied for the production of bright multicoloured effects. In the manufacture of bed cloths, flannels, knitted goods, stockings and hosiery, generally only very simple designs are used; but for blouses and dress stuffs multi-coloured patterns are preferred. Printed warps are also employed for curtains, tapestry, and decorative materials. I. PREPARATION OF THE YARN. BOILING. The raw yarn is first boiled, preferably under pressure of 1 — l l ji atmospheres, for 3 to 4 hours in water with an addition of a slight quant- ity of soda ash. The addition of soap or the use of strong soda or caustic alkali is not permissible, as the colour ultimately obtained in printing is then liable to run and bleed. A thorough washing after boiling is necessary for the production of sharp prints. CHEMICKING. When necessary, the yarns are slightly chemicked after boiling. The chemiking liquids should not be too strong, else inferior colours will result. Details of the most suitable chemiking operations are given in Part IV of this book. SIZING. When using colours which bleed readily the yarn should be sized or starched, before printing. The sizing liquor should not contain tallow or soap. Warp yarns which, after printing and steaming do not undergo any further operations but require to have a certain amount of stiffness in order to be worked properly during weaving, obtain abetter appearance if previously starched. DYEING. When dyeing yarns to be subsequently printed with direct colours, the use of soap or soda is inadmissible. The use of Turkey-red oil and other fatty acids is only permissible when the printing colour requires an oil preparation for its proper fixation. On the other hand the addition of common salt, Glauber's salt, and phosphate of soda to the dye bath is beneficial. For discharge colours with Hydrosulphite NF cone, soda may be used during dyeing. An aftertreatment with copper sulphate is not suitable for yarns printed — 63 — with steam colours, owing to the liability of copper salts to tender the yarn during steaming. Dyeing with basic mordant and azo colouring matters, is carried out according to the usual methods, although with the last two named groups of colours a preparation of the yarn with oil is in many cases necessary. The amount of oil used should be reduced to the smallest possible quantity, and the yarn after dyeing, thoroughly washed with hot water to free it from the superfluous oil. This process, however, is not suitable for all colours. Yarns printed wits Paranitraniline are chemicked after printing. TOPPING. When light and bright shades are required, and especially when the colours used for dyeing do not stand steaming it is advisable to dye the yarn after printing. If it is desirable to use sulphur colours for topping, the printing colour must be so selected that it will withstand the subse- quent treatment with sulphide of soda; suitable colours for this purpose are Alizarine Yellow 5G powder, GG paste, Alizarine Orange paste, Alizarine Brown paste, Alizarine Red all brands, Alizarine Blue SB, SR powder, Chromo- glaucine all brands, Philochromine B and G paste, Coeruleine all brands, Alizarine Green S. pas!e, Diphenyl Black Base 1. Paranitraniline Red. II. THICKENINGS USED FOR YARN PRINTING. 1. Wheat starch. 2. Maize starch, 3. Dextrine, 4. British gum, 5. Tragacanth, 6. Carragheen moss, 7. Senegal gum. A brief description of these thickenings is given in Part IV of this work. The following are some recipes for thickenings for the so-called iron machine: Thickening I. 2 lbs 14 1 /* oz 2,900 grs Wheat starch 4 lbs 4,000 grs tragacanth (60 : 1000) are boiled for 15 minutes with 21^2 lbs 21,500 grs water, being well stirred all the while, and 1 lbs 9 1 /* oz 1,600 grs acetic acid 50 °/o are added immediately after boiling. 30 lbs 30 kos. The thickening is then cooled and strained. 2'/i lbs lbs 22 lbs — 04 — Thickening II. 2,500 grs Wheat starch. 5,500 grs tragacanth (60 : 1000) and 22,000 grs water are well boiled for l /j hour. 30 lbs 30 kos. The thickening is then cooled' and strained. Thickening III. 2 lbs 14 1 .' oz 2,900 grs Wheat starch, 4 lbs 4,000 grs tragacanth (60 : 1000) are well boiled for 10 mi- nutes with 21 lbs 3 1 /* oz 21,200 grs water, then are added 5 oz 300 grs olive oil and 1 lbs 9'/-> oz 1,600 grs acetic acid 50°/o. 4 lbs 3 lbs 21 lbs 30 lbs 30 kos. The thickening is then cooled and strained. For printing Alizarine Red small quantities of Turkey red oil are added after cooling to thickening III. Thickening IV. 13 oz 4,800 grs Wheat starch, 9'/2 oz 3,600 grs acetic acid 50°/o and 9\j oz 21,600 grs water are boiled together for '/* hour and cooled while being well stirred, and afterwards diluted to 30 lbs 30 kos. Both for the mangle and the multicolour printing machine only thin solutions of tragacanth are used, viz. about 100 grs (l 1 /* ozs) tragacanth (GO: 1000) per kilo (lb) printing colour, or the colour is boiled with the addition of a little starch. III. MORDANTS USED IN YARN PRINTING. The description of these mordants is given in Part IV of this work. Acetate of alumina, Nitric acetate of alumina, Nitrate of alumina, Sulphocyanide of alumina, Acetate of tin, Oxalate of tin, Acetate of iron, Acetate of lime. -=*§*>-- — 65 — IV. YARN PRINTING MACHINES. Yarns are printed either in the hank or warp form. The machines for yarn printing are divided as follows : 1. Machines for hanks. a) Iron or English machines with longitudinal stripes. b) Iron machines with cross stripes. c) Wooden machines or Bohemian Mangles. 2. Machines for single threads or warps. a) Thread printing machines. b) Warp printing machines. 1. MACHINES FOR HANKS, a) Iron or English machines with longitudinal stripes. This machine serves for printing fine stripes from l \z — 6 mm in breadth. More heavy designs are liable to give uneven edges. The two printing rollers have each a furnisher which either takes the colour from a roller rotating in the colour-box or directly from the colour-box itself. In the latter case the furnishers have doctors attached to them. One of the printing rollers is mounted on the frame of the machine, whilst the other is fixed on a frame which moves on hinges, so as to allow the goods to enter the machine. After the printing rollers have been furnished with colour by allowing them to rotate a few times, the evenly spread yarns placed on three guide rollers are entered into the machine. Then the required pressure is given, the handle turned and the hanks pass between the two printing rollers and are printed simultaneously on both sides. Fig. 14. Fig. 15. Uixzd 5 ii — G6 — This machine is also constructed for multi-colour printing. In this case each of the two printing rollers have two or three furnishers with raised stripes. The stripes of the furnishers correspond to each second or third stripe of the roller. With three furnishers on each side one can print six colours by making the stripes of the one roller correspond with the intervals of the other roller. When using only 2 or 3 colours both sides of the yarn are printed with these colours as in a single colour printing machine. The following figure illustrates a multi-colour printing machine: Fig. 16. Figs. 14, 15 and 16 illustrate Iron machines for yarn printing as made by A. Edmestone & Sons in Patricroft and supplied by John Sumners & Co. of Manchester. b) Iron machines with cross stripes. These machines are in principle similar to the wooden machines to be described further on and can be used for multi-colour printing as well as for broad single colour stripes. Contrary to the wooden machines the printing rollers are here mounted on the frame of the machine, whilst the guide rollers are placed on the sledge. The upper printing roller is bigger than the lower one and is not furnished with colour. The lower one rotates directly in the colour box. In order to enable several colours to be printed at the same time the colour box is divided. The upper roller has a handle and the printing roller moves by friction. The well-spread yarn is placed on the two guide rollers mounted on the sledge and is printed in 4 or 5 times as on the wooden machine by moving the yarn each time a corresponding distance to the breadth of the roller. 67 — Fig. 17. Fig. 18. c) Wooden machines or Bohemian Mangles. Single-colour wooden printing machines. These machines which are constructed entirely of wood are used for printing broad stripes. The printing rollers are placed one above the other on a moveable sledge and have felted furnishers. The lower roller receives the colour from the colour box, whilst the upper one receives the colour from an auxiliary furnisher which rotates in a colour-box placed on the same level as the printing roller. The rollers are made of alder-wood and are felted for heavy designs. For fine designs the rollers are made either of brass or ebonite. The forward and backward movement of the sledge is effected by cog-wheels and a rack. Fig. 19. Fig. 20. — 68 - The well spread yarn is placed on two guide rollers mounted on the frame of the machine and a third roller is introduced to give the yarn the necessary tension. The yarn is parallel to the axis of the printing rollers. The yarn is then spread out evenly once more after which the sledge commences its forward and backward motion. The yarn passes between the printing rollers and with each movement of the sledge as much of the yarn is printed as corresponds to the breadth of the printing roller. The yarn is then moved a corresponding distance forward by turning the rollers on which it is stretched and is completely printed in 1 or 5 times. Multi-colour wooden printing machines. These machines which are constructed on the same principle as the single- colour wooden printing machines have a series of double printing rollers. The colour boxes can be divided into compartments, this is however not advantageous, as certain colours which are subject to frothing are liable to overflow into the next compartment. An addition of oil to the printing colour diminishes the frothing. Fig. 21. 2. MACHINES FOR SINGLE THREADS AND WARPS. a) Thread printing machines. The printing of threads is very similar to the printing of warps, only it requires less care, as no regular designs are to be obtained after weaving but simply flamme effects like with hank printing. The threads run from the cheeses through a comb and are then printed. After printing they are wound on one or two reels, and if the machine is sufficiently broad the}- can be wound directly on the beam. Fig. 22 illustrates a thread printing machine as made by Gebriider Donath's Nachfolger in Chemnitz. 69 b) Warp printing machines. Warps are only then printed when it is desired to obtain regular designs after weaving. The warp is kept from being disarranged by weft threads inverted at certain intervals. These are taken out during the operation of weaving. Warp printing machines are constructed on various principles. For carpets and tapestry materials the drum printing machine is much used. In this machine the warp threads are evenly wound on a cloth-covered drum and are then printed by a roller which rotates in a colour-box. In the plate printing machine plates take the place of the drums. --o@«>- V. PRINTING YARNS. The various operations connected with the printing of yarns may be divided into three stages. 1. Printing. 2. Steam ing. 3. Af tertreatment. 1. Printing. The printing of the bleached, dyed or sized yarn may be accomplished on one or other of the machines described above, fine one-colour patterns being best produced on the iron-printing machines, heavier designs on the Bohemian Mangle or multicolour printing machines, and two or more colours on the iron or — 70 — wooden machines. After printing, the yarn should be dried at a medium tem- perature, and the colour ultimately developed and fixed by steaming. 2. Steaming. The dried yarn is then divided into 1 lb lots placed on sticks, and hung in the steamer. To prevent waterdrops falling on the yarn it should be covered with canvas and the steaming chest heated before the yarn is placed in it. As the steaming should be accomplished as quickly as possible and should be even and thorough, the yarn should not be hung too closely together. To remove the gases formed during steaming, the steaming apparatus should be provided with outlets for their removal as soon as formed. 3. Methods of aftertreatment. Printed yarns, after steaming, require in most cases an aftertreatment, either to fix the colouring matter, neutralize the acids formed, do away with the superfluous thickenings, or to clear the white. The aftertreatment, therefore, may take various forms. A. Fixation with Antimony Compounds. This method is employed when the yarn has been printed with tannin dyestuffs. The yarn is treated for l ji to '/a hour at 86—122° F., in a bath containing 1 to 5 parts tartar emetic per 1000 parts of liquid; it is then allowed to lie for a short time and finally well washed. B. Chalk Bath. When mordant dyestuffs have been used in printing, the free acids formed during steaming must be neutralized and the colour kike fixed on the yarn by treating it for a short time in a warm bath containing 6 to 10 parts of calcium carbonate per 1000 parts. C. Aftertreatment with bichromate of potash, soda, or chalk. Many dyestuffs used in printing require an aftertreatment for the proper development of the colour. For instance, Aniline Black requires to be treated with either 3 to 4 per cent, bichromate of potash or 5 per cent, soda or chalk. The Oxazine dyestuffs may be developed with bichromate of potash. D. Soaping. Soaping is necessary to increase the brilliancy of Alizarine Reds, it also brightens the mordant colours which have been fixed with chalk. The temperature of the soap bath should be regulated according to its concentration and the depth of the printed shade. — 71 — E. Malting. This operation effects the removal from the yarn of the starch thickenings which have been used in printing by converting the starch into soluble diastase. For this purpose fresh malt or one or other of the diastase containing commercial products should be used. The yarn should be treated for */* to '/j hour in a bath at 86—122° F. containing 20 to 50 parts malt per 1000 parts of water (calculated on the weight of the yarn), and finally well washed. F. Chemicking. The treatment of printed yarns with a weak chlorine bath is frequently necessary for the improvement of the white. VI. METHODS OF PRINTING. Coloured effects are obtained either by printing actual dyestuffs, by the formation of the colouring matter on the fibre, or by the discharging of dyed yarns. These styles may be classified as follows: 1. Steam-colours. 2. Colours produced on the fibre by oxidation. 3. Insoluble azo-colours produced on the fibre. 4. Discharge Effects. 1. Steam Colours. A. Substantive or direct colours (Dianil dyestuffs). These colours serve only for styles which are not expected to possess any fastness to washing. The printing colour contains equal quantities of phosphate of soda and Turkey red oil, and half as much glycerine (calculated on the amount of the dyestuff taken). After printing, the yarn is steamed for 1^2 hours with steam which is not too dry. For printing the Dianil Colours on the iron machine the following recipe may be used: 3 1 /* oz 200 g Dyestuff 8 lbs 7 oz 8450 g Water 13 oz 800 g Wheat Starch 3'/2 oz 220 g Phosphate of soda l 3 /4 oz 110 g Glycerine 3'/2 oz 220 g Turkey red oil 10 lbs 10 kg — 72 — B. Basic Colours. These dyestuffs, owing to their comparative brilliancy and fastness properties, find a very large application. They are fixed with tannin and tartar emetic. The printing paste contains the dyestuff, the requisite amount of thickening, tannin and such substances as act as solvents and prevent the formation of the colour lake and the deterioration of the printing colour. The solvents usually employed in this respect are acetic, formic, lactic, tartaric, and ethyl tartaric acids, acetine, and glycerine. In place of acetic acid the comparatively cheaper formic acid has lately found considerable use. Fixed acids may tender the cotton fibre during steaming, but ethyl tartaric acid, owing to its slower and much milder action, is used with advantage and replaces them conveniently. Acetine acts in a similar way, as it does not injure the fibre and is a good solvent for those dyestuffs which are insoluble in water, for instance certain Indulines. Glycerine and acetine, which latter generates glycerine in steaming, act as most suitable hygroscopic substances. Steaming from 1 to l x /a hours follows the printing operation. During the steaming the formation of the lake and the fixation of the colouring matter within the fibres takes place. In the succeeding treatment with tartar emetic the printed colours are made fast to water and to soap; finally the yarns are washed. The basic dyestuffs may be printed with only slight alterations, according to the following recipe: l 1 /* oz 10 g Dyestuff 4 oz 25 g Acetic Acid 50°'o 1 ' a oz 10 g Acetine 4 lbs 2 ',4 oz 414 g Water 5 lbs 500 g Thickening 1 1 ji oz 1 g Tartaric acid 6 ' 2 oz 40 g Acetic acid tannin solution 1 : 1 10 lbs 1 kg The quantity of tannin necessary for the complete fixation of the dyestuff is determined by experiment. Small quantities give generally brighter shades, they are however not so fast. Methylene Heliotrope O can only be dissolved with acetic acid, acetine, glycerine, and tartaric acid. Basic dyestuffs are either free colour bases or salts of the latter. They are mostly hydrochlorides, less frequently acetates or oxalates. In many cases they are double compounds containing zinc chloride. As the latter compound is apt to tender the cotton fibre during steaming, it is advisable for printing purposes, to use either the isolated bases or the hydrochlorides free from zinc chloride. These dyestuffs are put on the market as "D"brands. The colour bases have to be dissolved with the addition of organic acids. The following are dyestuff bases : Ethyl Blue RD, BD. New Ethyl Blue R and B, Leather Yellow-base LiG, O, and OB. These bases may be printed as follows: — 73 I 1 /* oz 10 g Dyestuff base 8 02 50 g Acetic acid 50°/o Vh OZ 10 g Acetin l /i oz 3 g Tartaric acid 2'/i oz 15 g Glycerine 5 lbs 500 g Thickening 1 6 1 /* oz 40 g Acetic acid tannin solution 1 : 1 3 lbs 12 1 /* oz 372 g Water. 10 lbs 1 kg. Auramine should only be dissolved at a low temperature, about 122° F., and the steaming operation, should be shortened in this case, and carried out without pressure. Vesuvine and Chrysoidine are not available for printing as they sublimate during steaming. In place of these the Leather Yellow bases are used for browns. C. Mordant Colours. These colouring matters find extensive use in cotton yarn printing on account of their great fastness. The presence of metallic oxides is necessary for the formation of the colour-lake on the fibre. These compounds are added to the printing colour in the form of their acetates or formiates. Upon steaming, the organic acids are driven off and the fast metal colour-lake becomes fixed on the fibre. Mordant dyestuffs are put on the market mostly in the form of a 20 per cent paste. The brilliancy and fastness of the printed effect is increased by previously oiling the yarn. The oiling should consist of a treatment with 30 to 50 parts. Turkey red oil (the soda compound) per 1000 parts of water for dry yarns, and with 50 to 70 parts for wetted yarns. An oiling bath above this strength causes yellowish stains on the white, which are not readily removed after steaming either by washing or soaping. Before soaping, a short treatment in a chalk bath with 5 to 10 parts calcium carbonate per 1000 parts of water at 86° F serves to neutralize the free acids. Soaping is carried out in a warm bath at 68° F with 1 per cent Olive oil soap; the printed yarn is then washed in clear water and again worked in a soap bath 122 — 212° F of the same concentration, and finally well washed. When using this class of colouring matters, it is necessary to avoid too much colour being transferred onto the yarn, because an excess of the colouring matter is apt to stain the white during the processes of washing and soaping. For printing yarns the following mordant dyestuffs are principally used: Alizarine Yellow 5G powder, GG paste, R paste, and Calico Yellow O. These dyestuffs when printed on unoiled yarn with acetate of chrome give yellow to yellowish orange shades which are distinguished for their fastness — 71 — properties. In combination with very small quantities of Methylene Blue DBB, Brilliant Green etc., fast and brilliant greenish shades are obtainable. Water free from lime should be used for mixing the paste brands and the powdered brands should be dissolved in boiling water, preferably in condensed water. The powder is heated with water, the thickening added and heated again until a perfect solution of the dyestuff is effected, then the acetic acid is added. The printing colour is then allowed to cool and the mordants added. Alizarine 5G Powder. 5 lbs 8 oz 5500 g Thickening II l 1 - oz 100 g Alizarine Yellow 5G Powdei 2 lbs 8 oz 3750 g Water 2 l k oz 150 g Glycerine 8 oz 500 g Acetate of chrome, 32 ° Tw 10 lbs 10 kg. A lizarine Yellow GG paste. - oz 5500 g Thickening II 11 oz 700 g Alizarine Yellow GG paste 8 lbs 8 oz 3250 g Water -'■.■ oz 550 g Acetate of chrome, 32° Tw 10 lbs 10 kg. Alizarine Orange paste. Alizarine Orange with aluminium mordants on oil-prepared yarn gives very full and fast Oranges. On unoiled yarn and with chrome mordants brown shades are obtained. Alizarine Orange with Alumina. 5 lbs 8 oz 5500 g Thickening III lib 1000 g Alizarine Orange paste 20 °o 6'/2 oz 400 g Acetic acid 50 °/o 1 lb 7'/i oz 1450 g Water 8 3 /4 oz 550 g Acetate of lime, 15 ° Tw lib l*/i oz 1100 g Acetate of alumina, IS Tw 10 lbs 10 kg. Printed on previously oiled yarn. Alizarine Orange with Chrome. 5 lbs 8 oz 5500 g Thickening II 1 lb 1000 g Alizarine Orange paste _ 6 ' • oz 400 g Acetic acid 50 °'o 2 lbs 6 oz 2375 g Water 1 1 ' 2 oz 725 g Acetate of chrome, 32 ° Tw 10 lbs 10 kg. — 75 — Alizarine Red all brands with the exception of the S-brands. The yellowish brands of Alizarine Red, are mostly used for the production of a fiery red with aluminium-calcium mordants. The 1 B new and No. 1 brands are used with the same mordant for blueish reds and pinks, with chrome mordants for browns, and with iron mordants for violet shades. The aluminium -calcium lake requires to be printed on oiled yarn , the addition of tin salts to the printing colour increasing the brilliancy of the red. Bright red shades may also be obtained on unoiled yarn, although in this case an addition to the printing colour of 50 parts Para soap PN per 1000 parts is necessary. The chrome and iron colour lakes are produced on unoiled yarn. Alizarine Red with Alumina. 6 lbs 6000 g Thickening III 6 1 /-' oz 400 g Alizarine Red 5F paste 20 °/o 3^4 oz 200 g Acetic acid 50 °/o 2 lbs 6 oz 2415 g Water 5'/i oz 320 g Acetate of lime, 15° Tw 7 1 /* oz 440 g Aluminium acetate, IS Tw 3 s /« oz 225 g Oxalate of tin, 25° Tw 10 lbs 10 kg Printed on previously oiled yarn. Alizarine Red with Chrome. 6 lbs 6000 g Thickening II 9'/ 2 oz 600 g Alizarine No. 1 paste 20 °/ 2 lbs 12 oz 2750 g Water 6 x /2 oz 400 g Acetate of Chrome, 32° Tw 4 oz 250 g Acetate of Lime, 15° Tw 10 lbs 10 kg Alizarine Pink. 6 lbs 6000 g Thickening III 2 oz 125 g Alizarine Red IB paste 20 °/o 3^4 oz 200 g Acetic acid 50°/o 3 lbs 5 1 /* oz 3330 g Water 2 1 /2 oz 160 g Acetate of lime, 15° Tw 2 3 /i oz 185 g Aluminium acetate 18° Tw 10 lbs 10 kg Printed on previously oiled yarn. 76 Alizarine Lilac. 4 oz 3 ' . oz 3 lbs 2't oz 4 oz 2' 3 oz 6 lbs 6000 g Thickening II 250 g Alizarine Red No. 1 paste 20 °/o 200 g Acetic acid 50°/o 3135 g Water 250 g Acetate of lime, 15° Tw 165 g Pyrolignite of iron, 52° Tw 10 lbs 10 kg Alizarine Claret R paste. This dyestuff gives fast claret shades with aluminium mordants on oiled and unoiled yarn. With chrome mordants it gives lilac shades. For the pro- duction of fast browns it may be used in combination with Alizarine Brown, Alizarine Yellow, and Alizarine Orange. Alizarine Claret R with Alumina. oz 5500 g Thickening III 1000 g Alizarine Claret R paste 250 g Acetic acid 50 °/o 1810 g Water 640 g Acetate of lime, 15° Tw 800 g Acetate of aluminia, 18° Tw 10 lbs 10 ksr Alizarine Claret with Chrome. 5 lbs 8 oz 5500 g Thickening II 1 lb 1000 g Alizarine Claret R paste 1 lb 12 oz 2750 g Water 12 oz 750 g Acetate of chrome, 32° Tw 10 lbs 10 kg Alizarine Brown Paste. The Alizarine Browns are usually dissolved with the addition of weak alkalies (borax); they are used for the production of the fastest Browns especially when printed with chrome mordants. They are printed on unoiled yarn and steamed for an hour without pressure. Alizarine Brown printed on oiled material with an Alumina Mordant yields shades of inferior fastness to those obtained with a chrome mordant. 5 lbs 8 oz 1 lb 4 oz 1 lb 13 oz 10 oz 13 oz 77 — Alizarine Brown. 5 lbs 8 oz 5500 g Thickening II 2 3 ji oz 170 g Alizarine Brown R powder 3 lbs 9 oz 3560 g Water 2 3 /i oz 170 g Borax 9^2 oz 600 g Neutral chrome mordant 10 lbs 10 kg. Alizarine Blue SB powder, SR paste, SRX powder and paste. Alizarine blue should only be dissolved in cold water and mixed with the cold thickening. The printing colour must not be kept too long, as the chrome lakes of theix dyestuffs are apt to precipitate out on standing and uneven and bad results are then obtained. Owing to its fastness, bright colour, and simple method of application alizarine blue is considerably used. To increase the brightness of the colour the acetate and even the sulphate of zinc may be used, and for greenish blues acetate of nickel, although the fastness of these latter lakes is inferior to that obtained with chrome. Alizarine blue is printed on unoiled yarn and steamed for one hour without pressure. Alizarine Blue. 5 lbs 8 oz 5500 g Thickening II 5'/i oz 330 g Alizarine Blue SB powder 3 lbs 13 '/a oz 3840 g Water 5'/4 oz 330 g Acetate of chrome, 32° Tw 10 lbs 10 kg. Alizarine Green S. paste. This dyestuff should be dissolved in lukewarm water free from calcium salts. It serves for the production of fast greens and is printed either on oiled or unoiled yarn and steamed for one hour without pressure. Alizarine Green. 5 lbs 8 oz 5500 g Thickening II 1 lb 1000 g Alizarine Green S paste 7*/a oz 465 g Bisulphite of chrome, 32° Tw l 3 /i oz 115 g Bisulphite of nickel, 32° Tw 2 lbs 14 3 ,'± oz 2920 g Water 10 lbs 10 kg. — 78 — Coeruleine cone, A paste, S cone, and SW paste. The solution of Coeruleine cone, and A paste is effected by mixing the colour in 2'/« times the quantity of cold water and ! /j the quantity of bisulphite of soda 66 '/i° Tw and allowing the whole to stand for three days. Coerulein S cone. S and SW paste must be dissolved in cold water free from lime. The colour is printed on oiled or unoiled yarn and steamed for one hour without pressure. Coeruleine. 5 lbs 8 oz 5500 g Thickening II 5 oz 300 g Coeruleine S powder 3 lbs 7 '/ 2 oz 3475 g Water 1 1 1 /'s oz 725 g Acetate of chrome, 32° Tw 10 lbs 10 kg. Philochromine B and G paste. Chr omoglauc in e VM powder and paste, also Chromoglaucine BMJ. Powder and BMJ solution. Philochromine and Chromoglaucine are leuco-compounds of colouring matters of the gallocyanine series ; they are easily oxidized on exposure to air so that the vessels containing them should be kept closed and the colours not stirred up without need. Metals, especially copper, spoil the shade of these colouring matters ; it is therefore necessary to avoid the use of copper vessels and utensils when winking with these colours. The colour is fixed with green acetate of chrome, and it is advisable to add formic acid to the printing colour. The goods should be steamed as soon as possible after printing. Philochromine requires steaming for one hour without pressure, whereas for Chromoglaucine half an hours steaming is sufficient. If the latter is steamed for over an hour with pressure, the shade becomes redder. As these colouring matters is are very sensitive to sulphurous acid and chlorine before their chrome lakes are formed they must not be steamed along with steam aniline black or bisulphite colours. In order to oxidize the colour thoroughly, the printed yarn ought to be left to lie for some time; a passage through a weak chrome bath after steaming also hastens the process of oxidation. Finally the yarn is washed and soaped. On account of their very bright shades and good fastness, Philochromine B and G are used for bright and medium blues. Chromoglaucine VM and BMJ are used for obtaining fast dark shades, the BMJ brand gives shades similar to Indigo, whilst the VM brand is more violet. The printing colours are prepared in a similar manner as described for the alizarine dyestuffs. — 79 — Philochromine. 6 lbs 6000 g Thickening II 1 lb 1000 g Philochromine B Paste 2 1 /* oz 150 g Formic acid 98°/o 2 lbs 9\ ! 2 oz 2600 g Water 4 oz 250 g Acetate of chrome, 32° Tw 10 lbs 10 kg. Chromoglaucine. 5 oz 300 g Chromoglaucine VM paste 1 lb 12 Va oz 1800 g Water added to the following cooled solution : 6 lbs 6000 g Thickening II 1 lb 3'/4 oz 1200 g Water 2'/2 oz 150 g Formic acid 98°/o 8 3 ,'4 oz 550 g Acetate of chrome, 32° Tw 10 lbs 10 kg. The following colours are printed in a manner similar to the mordant dyestuffs. d) Eosine and Acid Colours. This class of colouring matters only finds application in such cases where brilliancy but no fastness to washing is required. 1. Eosine, Erythrosine, Phloxine, Rose Bengale etc. 2^2 oz 150 g Eosine 3 lbs 6 1 /* oz 3400 g Water 6 lbs 6000 g Thickening III 7 oz 450 g Acetate of chrome 32° Tw 10 lbs 10 kg. The colour is printed on oiled or unoiled yarn and steamed for one hour without pressure. 2. Acid Dyestuffs. 2 x /a oz 150 g Ponceau 3 lbs 1 l ja oz 3100 g Water 6 lbs 6000 g Thickening II 12 oz 750 g Aluminium acetate IS Tw 10 lbs 10 kg Printed on unoiled yarn and steamed for one hour without pressure. ■2 ' ■ oz 3 lbs 1 . oz 6 lbs 2 1 /> oz 6 1 /* oz 10 lbs — 80 — 3. Rosazeines. 150 g Rosazeine G 3300 g Water 6000 g Thickening III 150 g Acetic acid 50° o 400 g Acetate of chrome 32° Tw 10 kg Printed on unoiled yarn and steamed for one hour without pressure. 4. Water soluble Rosaniline Blue sulphonic-acids. 2 x /s oz 150 g Alkali Blue 3 lbs 13 \ 2 oz 3850 g Water 5 lbs 8 oz 5500 g Thickening II 4 oz 250 g Turkey red oil 50°/u 4 oz 250 g Bisulphite of chrome 32 ° Tw 10 lbs 10 kg All the printing colours given on pages 73 to machines. are for the Iron printing e) Thiogene Colours. Of late the Thiogene Colours have been introduced for yarn printing. For this purpose the „D" brands arc employed. Thiogene Cyanine GD cone, and OD cone, are printed as follows: 250 l^ Thiogene Cyanine GD cone, or OD cone, are dissolved by heating with 400 g Glycerine 250 g Caustic Soda 76° Tw. 2850 g Water and 250 g Hydrosulphite NF cone. This solution is then added to a paste made from l(HH) g British gum powder $200 g Water 1800 g Caustic Soda 76° Tw. Id lbs in kg Thiogene Black MD cone, Thiogene Blue BD cone, Thiogene Green GLD extra cone, Thiogene Grey BD extra strong, Thiogene Brown GCD cone, GRD cone and SD cone Thiogene Violet BD extra strong are printed as follows: 4 oz 6V2 oz 4 oz 2 lbs 13 '/2 oz 4 oz 1 lb 3 lbs 3 1 ;.! oz 1 lb u ■ oz — 81 — Are printed as follours 4 oz — 1 lbs oz— 2 lbs 1U oz oz — 4 oz 1 lb 3 lbs 3 1 /! oz 1 lb 12 3 /4 oz 250—1000 g Dyestuff are dissolved by heating with 400 g Glycerine 300 g Caustic Soda 76° Tw. 2950—2050 g Water 100 — 250 g Hydrosulphite cone, powder This solution is then added to a paste made from 1000 g Britishgum powder 3200 g Water 1800 g C austic Soda 76° Tw. 10 kg. After printing the yarn is dried and steamed for 10 — 20 minutes in an atmosphere as free from air as possible. After steaming the yarn is washed and soaped at the boil. The blacks, blues, cyanines, greys and browns are improved by passing them through an acidulated bichrome or sulphate of copper bath before washing. 2. Colours produced on the Fibre by Oxidation. Many aromatic bases are transformed by oxidation with chlorates into insoluble coloured compounds possessing great fastness. The most important of these colouring matters are Aniline Black and Diphenyl Black, the former of which, on account of its depth, fastness, and cheapness, finds considerable use. On account of its high degree of fastness to light and washing, it has largely replaced logwood black and in many instances shows advantages over the latter in spite of its liability to turn green, to tender the fibre and its sensitiveness towards chlorine. Aniline Black is used for direct printing and for resist styles. It is either developed by hanging in the oxidation room (Aniline Oxidation Black) or by steaming for a short time (Steam Aniline Black). 1. Aniline Oxidation-Black. Either of the following colours may be used: Sulphide of copper Black. 2 lbs 2000 g Gum Tragacanth (60 : 1000) 3 lbs 14 1 /* oz 3910 g Water 15 oz 930 g Aniline Salt X J2 oz 35 g Aniline Oil 3 3 /i oz ( 235 g Chlorate of Soda 1 lb 8 oz ( 1500 g Water Before use add : 1 j-2 oz 30 g Sulphide of copper paste 1 lb 6 oz 1360 g Wa ter 10 lbs 10 kg. 6 ii Sulphide of Copper paste. :; lbs 12 oz | 3750 g Sulphate of copper l'/i Gall I 1") Litres Water 3 lbs 14' > oz | 3900 g Sulphide of Soda Cr. 1 Gall I 10 Litres Water. These two solutions are poured into 20 Liters (2 Gall) of cold water, allowed to settle, washed by decantation, filtered and pressed to 5400 g (5 lbs 6 1 /! oz). Vanadium Black. 2 lbs 2000 g Gum Tragacanth (60:1000) 5 lbs 4 oz 5240 g Water 8 oz 500 g Aniline Oil 7 1 /* oz 460 g Hydrochloric acid 36° Tw. 3 3 /< oz 235 g Chlorate of Soda 1 lb S oz 1500 g Water Before use add 1 oz 65 g Ammonium vanadate (1:1000) 10 lbs 10 kg. After printing the black is developed by being hung in the oxidation room for 24 hours at 90° F. It is then chromed at 122° F in a Bichrome solution (5:1000) washed and soaped. 2. Steam Aniline Black. 2 lbs 2000 g Gum Tragacanth (60:1000) 2 lbs IS 1 /* oz 2840 g Water 10 oz 625 g Aniline Salt '/a oz 35 g Aniline Oil 5'/s oz 335 g Yellow prussiate 2 lbs 2000 g Water 2 1 /j oz 165 g Chlorate of soda 2 lbs 2000 g Wa ter 10 lbs 10 kg. Broad black stripes with narrow white intervals are best produced by the resist style. This so-called Prud'homme Black is worked follows: The boiled or half-bleached yarn is impregnated with the following solution. IS 1 /! OZ [ 840 g Aniline Salt 6 1 /* oz 400 g Gum Tragacanth (60:1000) 3 4 oz 50 g Aniline Oil V* Gall 2200 cc Water 8'[i oz 1 540 g Yellow Prussiate V* Gall | [ 2800 cc Water 5 oz | 800 g Chlorate of soda »/« Gall 8200 cc Water 1 Gall 10 Litres. — 83 — For coloured resists it is advisable to add 2 — 3 parts of tannin per 1000 parts of the dye-bath. After dyeing the yarn is evenly wrung out and dried at 90 ° F. It must then have only a light green shade otherwise good resist effects will not be obtained. For white resists alkaline or reducings agents are employed. White Resist A. 2 lbs 2000 g Gum Tragacanth (60:1000) 5 lbs 9^2 oz. 5600 g Water 2 lbs 2000 g Precipitated chalk 6^2 oz 400 g Soda ash. 10 lbs 10 kg. If the yarn has become too dark through prolonged drying or some other reason it is advisable to use the following resist containing Hydro- sulphite NF cone. White Resist B. 2 lbs 2000 g Gum Tragacanth (60:1000) 3 lbs 3000 g Water 1 lb 1000 g Acetate of soda 2 lbs 2000 g Oxide of Zink 1:1 2 lbs 2000 g Hydrosulphite NF cone. 1 : 10 10 lbs 10 kg. Coloured resists are prepared as follows: IV2 — 3 oz 100— 200 g Basic dyestuff 3 lbs 3 oz— 3 lbs 2 oz 3200—3100 g Water 3 lbs 3000 g Senegal-gum 1 : 1 1 lb 8 oz 1500 g China-clay 1:1 1 lb 3 oz 1200 g Acetate of Zink 1 lb 1000 g Hydrosulphite NF cone. 1:10 10 lbs 10 kg. After printing the yarn is dried and steamed for a few minutes and then treated as printed Aniline Black. For coloured resists which can not be chromed the bichrome is replaced by silicate of soda. The black produced from p-amidodiphenylamine (Diphenyl Black), by a similar process of oxidation, besides being as fast as Aniline Black possesses the advantage of being ungreenable. It is not changed to Emeraldine either through the influence of the atmosphere, dilute acids, or the direct action of sulphurous acid, and it has the advantage of not tendering the fibre, as the — 84 — solution of the Diphenyl black base I is effected only with acetic and lactic acid, and the oxidation carried out without the use of any mineral acids. Diphenyl black can be printed with all steam colours and is especially suitable for printing with alizarine red and pink which are so sensitive towards iron. In this case, when printed on previously oiled yarn, the resisting properties of the oil prepare should be counteracted by adding to the printing colour somewhat more aluminium chloride than usual (about '25 to 30 parts per 1000 parts of col Although Diphenyl black ba-e I is soluble in water it is readily soluble in acetic and lactic acids and acetine. The best oxidising compounds for Diphenyl Black are the Chlorates of Soda and Alumina. Copper Chloride is to be recommended as the best carrier of oxygen. The printing colour should only be mixed just before use so as to prevent the formation of black in the colour paste itself. After printing, the colour should appear light grey, and after drying at 1'22 — 140° F be developed into a deep black. The fastest blacks are obtained by steaming the yarns, for about 15 minutes without pressure after the colour has almost thoroughly been developed. To diminish the danger of corroding the yarn by the acid vapours which are driven off, a piece of cloth which has been soaked in ammonia is hung up in the steamer. Longer steaming increases its fastness to acids, and chroming enhances its appearance. Diphenyl Black base is worked in the following manner: The yarn for printing should be thoroughly dried and for designs which do not give sharp prints the yarn should be warmed just before printing. A preliminary passage through 1 part of ammonia to 1000 parts of water is beneficial, the yarn being allowed to lie in the bath for two hours after which it is washed at 104° F. Sizing the yarn with 2 lbs wheat starch and 1 lb dextrin to 20 gallons of water prevents the colour from running and bleeding. After the colour has been printed the yarn should be hung in a warm drying chamber until the black is thoroughly developed, the usual period being overnight. A final washing is not necessary, although soaping and washing may follow without deteriorating the shade. Diphenyl Black Base I. 1. For single-colours on Iron Machines. Standard Colour A. 5 oz I 300 g Diphenyl Black Base I are dissolved in 13 i oz 850 g Acetic acid 50% and oz | 400 g Lactic acid 50"o and are then added to: 2 lbs 6 1 /« oz 2400 g Thickening IV and 1 lb 1000 g Gum Tragacanth (60 to 100 parts per 1000) Standard Colour B. To 2 lbs 6Va oz 2400 g Thickening IV and 1 lb 100 ° § Gum tragacanth (60 to 100 parts per 1000) are added 2 3 li oz 175 g Aluminium chloride 52° Tw 7» oz 28 g Copper chloride 76° Tw and the cooled solution of 4 oz \ 250 g Chlorate of soda in 1 'b [ 1000 g hot water. These two standard colours B and A are mixed together just before use, and are made up to 10 lbs 10 kos and strained. 2. For multicolours on Iron Machines. Standard Colour A. 5 oz 300 g Diphenyl Black base I are dissolved by heating with 13 3 /i oz 850 g Acetic acid 50°/o and 672 oz 400 g Lactic acid 50°/o. The whole cooled and added to the mixture of 1 Ib 100 ° g Gum tragacanth (60 to 100 parts per 1000) and 2 lbs 7 1 /! oz 2450 g cold water. Standard Colour B. 2 3 /i oz 175 g Aluminium chloride 52° Tw Vs oz 28 g Copper chloride 76° Tw are dissolved in 2 lbs 8 3 /4 oz 2547 g cold water and 1 lb 1Q 00 g Gum tragacanth (60 to 100 parts per 1000) to which is added the cooled solution of 4 oz 250 g Chlorate of soda in 1 lb 1000 g w ater. 10 kg. The two standard colours are mixed together before use. 3. For Wooden Machines. Standard Colour A. 5 oz 300 g Diphenyl Black base 1 arc dissolved in 13 3 /i oz 850 g Acetic acid 50% and 6 1 /* oz 400 g Lactic acid 50°/o and are then added to the cooled paste made from 5 oz 300 g Wheat Starch or Dextrine boiled with 3 lbs 8 oz 3500 g water. — 86 — Standard Colour B. oz 17.j g Aluminium chloride 52° Tw. 2 oz 28 g Copper chloride 76° Tw and 3 lbs 3 1 /* oz 3197 g cold water. To this solution is then added the cooled solution of 4 oz 250 g Chlorate of soda in 1 lb 1000 g water. 10 lbs 10 kg. The two standard colours are mixed together just before use. If the starch thickening used is liable to make the colour bleed, it should be replaced by a solution of Senegal gum 1:1. For heavy designs only the lower colour-box is used and it is advisable to work with doctors. 3. Insoluble Azo Colours produced on the Fibre. Of this class of colouring matters those mostly used are Azophor Orange MX, Azophor Pink A, Azo Pink BB, Paranitraniline Red, Azophor Red PN, Alphanaphthylamine Claret, Azophor Blue D, Azophor Black S and DP. The Azophor colours owing to their being stable are particularly useful for the printing of yarns. Printing colours with Alphanaphtylamine salt S, should only be mixed in small quantities and used as quickly as possible. The diazotising should be effected with the cooled and thickened standard colour paste. A slight addition of Gum tragacanth thickening or starch to the naphthol prepare improves the sharpness and clearness of the printed effects. The methods of preparing are the same as described for yarn dyeing on page 231 Volume 1. In order to obtain a pure white it is necessary to use a freshly prepared and clear naphthol solution. Vessels and utensils, which are used for dyeing, ought to be avoided, as they are liable to produce a reddish tinge upon the white. Moreover the liability of the naphtol prepare to turn brown by exposure to the air should be averted by the addition of an alkaline solution of antimony oxide containing glycerine. The addition of Glukose improves the white on washing and soaping. Azo Colours for Yarn Printing. 1. Azophor Red. Naphthol Prepare for yellowish red. 4 oz 250 g |ff-Naphthol 400 cc Caustic Soda 36° Tw 9—12 oz 600—750 g Turkey Red Oil 1 Gallon 10 Litres. — S7 Naphthoic Prepare for blueish red. 4 oz 250 g (J-Naphtol R 3 oz 400 cc Caustic Soda 36° Tw 9—12 oz 600—750 g Turkey Red Oil 1 Gallon 10 Litres. Printing Colour: 13 oz 800 g Azophor Red PN are dissolved in 2 lbs 8 oz 2500 g cold water, left to stand for l fa hour, filtered, and the filtered liquid slowly mixed with 7 oz 425 g Caustic soda 36 ° Tw, and diluted with 1 lb 1 000 g cold water ; then neutralized and again diluted with water to 5 lbs 5 kg. This solution is then mixed with 5 lbs 5 kg Thickening II. 10 lbs 10 kg 2. a-Naph thylamine Claret. Naphthol Prepare. 4 oz 260 g /?-Naphtol 400 cc Caustic Soda 36° Tw 8 oz 500 g Gum Tragacanth (60:1000) 1 Gallon 10 Litres. Printing Colour: 6 oz 385 g a-Naphthylamine salt S powder are made into a paste with 2 lbs 8 oz 2500 g water, to which are added 3'/i oz 200 g Sulphuric acid 169° Tw, and 1 lb 1000 g ice. Then a solution of 2 x /2 oz 150 g Nitrite, dissolved in l/a lb 500 g cold water is slowly added at. 41 ° F, then made up to 5 lbs 5 kg, and filtered 3 lbs 3 kg of this Diazo solution are mixed with 6 lbs 6 kg Thickening II, after which a solution of 6 1 , , 2 oz 400 g Sodium acetate in 9^2 oz 600 g water is slowly added. 10 lbs 10 kg 3. Azophor Orange. Naphthol Prepare as for Azophor Red PN. Printing Colour: 13 oz 800 g Azophor Orange MN are dissolved in 2 lbs 13 oz 2800 g cold water, left to stand for '> hour, filtered, and the filtered liquid slowly mixed with 7 oz 42(5 g Caustic soda 36° Tw, and diluted with 13 oz 800 g water, then neutralized, and made up to 5 [bs 5 kg. This solution is then mixed with 5 lbs 5 kg Thickening II. 10 lbs 10 kg 4. Azophor Pink A. Naphthol Prepare: I l 1 ,. oz 100 g iff-Naphthol 1 gall. ! 1 nog 300 cc caustic soda 26° Tw J 21/2 oz 150 g P ara soap PN 10 Litres. Printing Colour: 3 1 /* oz 200 g Azophor Pink A are dissolved in 4 lbs 4000 g cold water, left to stand for '/a hour, filtered, and the filtered liquid mixed with •"1 ' 1 oz 320 g Acetic acid 50°/o ; then diluted with water to 5 kg to which are added 4 kg Thickening II and 150 g Sodium acetate, dissolved in 350 g water, and 500 g Gum Tragacanth (60:1000) 5 lbs 4 lbs 2 1 ;- oz 5'/2 oz >, lb 10 lbs. 10 kg. 5. Azophor Blue. Naphthol Prepare. 4 oz 260 g ^-Naphthol l 5 /8 nog 500 cc Caustic Soda 36° Tw 1 lb 1000 g Turkey Red Oil 50°/o 1 Gallon 10 Liters. - 89 — Printing Colour: • 2 3 ji oz 180 g Azophor Blue D, dissolved in 3 lbs 3000 g c old water, filtered and diluted to 3500 g. This solution is mixed with 5000 g Thickening II, to which are added 350 g Copper chloride 77° Tw, and 20 g Chromic acid, dissolved in 1130 g water. 3 ^2 lbs 5 lbs 5*/i oz 3 /s oz 1 lbs 2 oz 10 lbs. 10 kg. 6. Azophor Black DP. Naphthol Prepare: 4 oz 250 g ft- Naphthol 8 oz 500 g Caustic soda 36° Tw 1 lbs 1000 g Gum Tragacanth (60 : 1000) 1 Gallon 10 Litres. Printing Colour: 1 lbs 1000 g Azophor Black DP dissolved in 3 lbs G 1 ^ oz 3400 g water, 5 lbs 5000 g Thickening II 9*/s oz 600 g Sodium acetate. 10 lbs. 10 kg. In printing with insoluble Azo Colours, only a slight pressure should be applied. The goods must be well dried, washed and soaped hot. In order to obtain a good white, the goods are chemicked slightly afterwards. 4. Discharge Effects. By means of discharge printing effects are obtained which cannot be produced by other methods. Generally, one or more colours are to be printed upon a coloured ground, and it is essential that no white rims are formed, nor must the printed colour be soiled by the dyed ground. Also in cases where broad coloured stripes are to alternate with white stripes, discharge printing is preferable to direct printing, as it obviates their running into one another. In yarn printing, both as regards white and coloured discharges, only reducing discharges need be considered, because oxidising discharges are liable to tender the fibre. 6a ii — 90 — a) Discharge Effects upon Dianil Dyestuffs. a H ydrosulphite Discharges. This process is used both for white and coloured discharges, because the Dianil dyestuffs, with few exceptions, e. g. Dianil Yellow and Oxydianil Yellow, are destroyed by Hydrosulphite. For white discharges a solution of Hydrosulphite NF cone, in tragacanth (60 in 1000) is most suitable. The quantity of the discharging agent depends on the depth of the colour to be discharged and on the quantity of the discharging colour applied. In order to avoid the bleeding of the white in washing after steaming it is necessary after dyeing (eventually alter printing and steaming) to aftertreat the yarn with 1 — 2°/o solidogen. The following recipe for white discharges is suitable for printing on the iron machine: 1 ■ -3 oz 100 — 200 g Hydrosulphite NF cone, are dissolved in 5 oz 300 g Gum tragacanth (60 in 1000) and 61/8—5 oz 400—300 g water at a temperature of 104— 122° F, to this are added 3 oz 200 g Zinc white 1:1. 1 lbs 1 kg. In order to obtain coloured discharges certain dyestuffs may be added to the Hydrosulphite White Discharge which resist the strongly reducing action of the hydrosulphite. Such colours are : Basic Colours: Auramine O cone, Methylene Yellow H, Flavophosphine 4G cone, new, GG cone, new., G cone, new, R cone, new, Leather Yellow O, Rosazeine 4G extra, Thionine Blue GO, Methylene Blue DBB, Discharge Navy Blue S extra cone. Mordant Colours (Oxazine colours): Chromoglaucine VM powder and paste, Chromoglaucine BMJ powder and liquid, Philochromine B and G paste. Direct Colours Oxydianil Yellow, Primuline and Dianil Pure Yellow HS. Also Indigo. In using basic colours for Hydrosulphite Coloured Discharges the tannin necessary for fixing the colours is added direct to the discharge colour. For dissolving the dyestuffs neither acetic acid nor other acids may be used, as they destroy the Hydrosulphite NF cone. For that reason in order to avoid lake formation Phenol, Acetine or Glycerine are added to the printing colours. In order to fix the colours well, and at the same time to obtain the full discharge action, it is necessary to steam for a sufficiently long time. The steamed yarn is left to lie until the reduced colours are developed, and is afterwards treated with Tartar emetic. The subsequent washing and soaping serves to develop the coloured discharges and to remove the superfluous unfixed dyestuff. — 91 — Coloured Discharges for the Multi-colour Printing Machine. Discharge Blue A. 5 oz 300 g Discharge Navy Blue S extra cone, dissolved in 1 j-2 lbs 500 g Glycerine 1 1 ,2 oz 100 g Acetine and 4000—3000 g water 1500 g Thickening II 9^2 oz 600 g Phenol 1000 g Tannin solution (1 : 1 with water) 2000—3000 g Hydrosulphite NF cone, 1 : 1. 4- -3 lbs 1 '/* lbs 1 lbs 2- -3 lbs 10 lbs. 10 kg. Discharge Blue B. 3 x /4 oz 200 g Thionine Blue GO dissolved in '/a lbs 500 g Glycerine 1 l ji oz 100 g Acetine and 4 x / 4 lbs— 3 1 /* lbs 4300—3300 g water l 1 /-' lbs 1500 g Thickening II 9'/2 oz 600 g Phenol 13 oz 800 g Tannin solution (1 : 1 water) 2—3 lbs 200 0—3000 g Hydrosulphite NF cone. 1:1. 10 lbs. 10 kg. Discharge Blue C. 6'/2 oz 400 g Chromoglaucine VM paste are made into a paste with 4 lbs 9^2 oz 4600 g water, and mixed into 2 lbs 2000 g Thickening II 1 j-2 lb 500 g Green acetate of chrome 33° Tw and 2 72 lbs 2500 g Hydrosulphite NF, cone. 1:1, being added. 10 lbs. 10 kg. Discharge Yellow A. 3'/z 100 g citric acid. 10 lbs 10 kg Coloured Discharge for the Multi-colour Printing Machine. 200 g Basic dyestuff 200 g Acetic acid 50°/o 3300 g water 2000 g Thickening IV 300 g Tartaric acid 1000 g Acetic acid tannin solution 1 : 1 3000 g Standard White. 10 lbs 10 kg Standard White. 368 g Acetate of tin 33° Tw 148 g British Gum powder 74 g Gum solution 1 : 1 37 g Citric acid 40 g Water. Boil for ten minutes, then add 222 g Tin salt, stir for o minutes; after cooling add 37 g Sodium acetate crystals 74 g Water. 1 ke 3\'. I oz 3V< I oz 3 lbs 5 oz 2 lbs 5 oz 1 lbs 3 lbs 6 oz 2 oz 2 1 /a oz 3 /s oz I 1 /* oz 9'|2 oz 6 lbs 1 lb 2 lbs 1 oz 1 oz — 93 — The printed yarn is well dried, steamed for 10 — 15 minutes without pressure, and aftertreated with Solidogen. For Coloured discharges the yarn is passed through a tartar emetic bath and finally washed. If the yarn has been prepared in tannin and treated with Tartar emetic before printing, the following recipe is used, e. g. Red upon Dianil Blue on the wooden printing machine. Red Discharge Colour. 145 g Safranine GGS 15 g Auramine O 100 g Rosazeine 4G 600 % Acetic acid 50 "o 6000 g Water 1000 g Gum tragacanth (60 in 1000) 2000 g Acetate of tin 33° Tw 70 g Tin salt 70 g Sodium acetate 10 lbs 10 kg. After printing the yarn is steamed for x /2 — 1 hour, then washed with cold water. As additions to the coloured discharges the following may be used : Auramine, Flavophosphine, Phosphine, Leather Yellow, Rosazeine 4G, Safranine, Magenta, Methyl Violet, Methylene Heliotrope, Navy Blue, Victoria Blue, Methylene Blue, Ethyl Blue, Brilliant Green, Malachite Green, Methylene Grey. b) Discharge Effects with Basic Colours. These are produced by discharging the tannin ground by means of strong alkaline thickenings, and subsequent dyeing with basic colours. This method is employed for narrow white effects on coloured grounds, because direct printing easily causes the colours to run into the white. By printing strong alkalies and subsequent steaming the tannin-antimony lake is quantitatively destroyed on the fibre. If the yarn is then dyed with basic colours (with the exception of Janus Colours), white designs on coloured grounds are obtained. Bleached cotton yarn is impregnated with tannin, and fixed with Tartar emetic, then washed, dried and printed with the White discharge colour : White Discharge for the Iron Printing Machine: 1 lb 3 oz 1200 g Dextrine 1 lb 3 oz 1200 g Water 2 lbs 2000 g Bisulphite 66° Tw 4 lbs 4000 g Caustic Soda 76°Tw 1 lb 10 oz 1600 g China Clay 1 : 1 10 lbs 10 kg. — 94 — This White Discharge can also be used for the wooden printing machine, in which case, however, it is necessary to use doctors. Where weaker tannin solutions are used, the Discharge colour must be reduced. After printing the yarn is well dried, steamed for ten minutes without pressure, with as dry steam as possible, and passed for a short time through diluted sulphuric acid, then well washed, and soaped for 5 minutes at. 113° F. It is dyed in a weak bath with the addition of 2 lbs tartar emetic and 2 lbs alum for every 100 lbs yarn. After dyeing it is well washed, soaped and, if necessary, chemicked. c) Discharges of Insoluble Azo Colours Produced on the Fibre. For these only Hydrosulphite discharges are employed ; for Paranitraline Red the same recipes can be used as for Dianil Colours, but if necessary, a larger quantity of Hydrosulphite is added. For Naphthylamine Claret the following altered recipes are applicable: White Discharge for Naphthylamine Claret on the [ron Machine: 3 lbs 3000 g Hydrosulphite thickening NFJ, 2 lbs 2000 g Water 2 lbs 2000 g China Clay 1:1, J i i z 150 g Methylene Blue DBB, 1:100, are heated until the reduction of the Methylene Blue is complete, then mixed into 2 lhs l:: 1 j <>/. 2N.-.0 g G um solution, 1:1. 10 lbs. 10 k. Coloured Discharge fur Naphthylamine Claret on the Iron Machine. :!'ioz 200 g Basic dye-tuff. 6 1 /* oz 400 g Water. 8 oz 500 g Glycerine, 3 lbs 11 oz 3700 g Thickening II. 1 lb 1000 - China Clay 1 :1 3 1 i oz 200 g Ethyl Tartaric acid 22" T\v„ 8 oz 500 g Ale .hoi. 1 lb 1000 g Tannin solution 1 1 : 1 with water) 8 oz fiOO g Sodium Turkey red oil 50 2 lbs 2000 g Hydrosulphite thickening NFJ. 10 lbs. 10 k, — 95 — Hydro sulphite Thickening NFJ. 8 oz 500 g Hydrosulphite NF, cone, are dissolved with l l U oz 450 g Gum solution (1:1) and V* dr 1 g Induline Scarlet in 3 M oz 49 g Water; the whole heated to about 122— 140° F until the Hydrosulphite NF cone, is dissolved and the Induline Scarlet is perfectly reduced. 1 lb. 1 k. Naphthylamine Claret can also be discharged with Hydrosulphite NF cone, and Anthraquinone. White discharge NFA. 1 lb— 1 lb 8 oz 1000—1500 g Hydrosulphite NF cone. 4 lbs 11 oz— 4 lbs 3*2 oz 4800—4300 g Water 1 lbs 8 oz 1500 g Gum Tragacanth (60:1000) 2 lbs 2000 g China Clay 1 : 1 3 ^2 oz 200 g Caustic Soda 76° Tw 8 oz 500 g Anthraquinone in paste 10 lbs 10 kg. Coloured discharge NFA. 3 oz 200 g Basic dyestuff 1 lb 13 oz 1800 g Water 3 lbs 8 oz 3350 g Thickening 5 oz 300 g Glycerine 1 oz 100 g Acetine 1 lb 1000 g China Clay 1:1 250 g Alcohol 800 g Phenol 750 g Hydrosulphite NF cone. 750 g Gum solution 1:1 500 g Anthraquinone in paste 10 lbs 10 kg. We have recently put on the market a new product under the name of Hydrosulphite NF cone, special, by which a pure white discharge can be, effected upon Naphthylamine Claret without any further additions. Paranitraniline and Dianil Colours can also be discharged by this new product. After printing the yarn is steamed for '/« — 3 /4 hour, and for the coloured discharges is passed through a Tartar emetic bath, then washed and soaped. White discharges on Naphthylamine Claret and Para Red are chemicked after soaping in order to obtain a perfectly pure white. The discharge colours for the multi-colour printing machines must be thinner. 4 oz 13 oz 12 Vi oz 12 1 /! oz 8 oz 96 VII. LINEN YARN PRINTING. In order to prevent the colours from running, the bleached linen yarn is steeped in a thin solution of starch to which alum has been added, and then well dried. The material so prepared is then printed alter the same methods as cotton yarns. The patterns en page 101, illustrating various printing effects, have been produced according t<> recipes given on pages 97—100. — 97 — PRINTED YARNS. ^ * » 'mum town** k (t&mi<1$ 16 17 19 20 '* m&jrim&M 7 ii — 98 — Recipes for the Patterns on page 97. 1. L> Alizarine Yellow GG paste. 5'/t lbs 55('0 g thickening n 11 oz 700 g Alizarine Yellow GG paste 3 Mis 5 oz 3250 g water 6 oz 550 g acetate of chrome 32°Tw., 10 lbs 10 kg Alizarine Orange with Alumina. 5500 g thickening III 1 lb 1000 g Alizarine Orange N paste 20% 6'/! oz 400 g acetic acid 50% l'/j lbs 14".0 g wain 9 oz 550 g acetate of lime 15° Tw., IT 1 .. oz 1100 g acetate ofaluminal9°Tw., 10 lbs 10 kg Printed on yarn previously oiled. 5'/. lbs 1 lb 2 lbs 6 rine Orange with Chrome. 5500 g thickening II 1000 g Alizarine Orange N paste 20°/o oz 400 g acetic acid 50% oz 2375 g water oz 725 g acetate of chrome 32° Tw. 10 lbs 10 kg Alizarine Red with Alumina. 6 lbs 6000 g thickening III 6% oz 400 g Alizarine Red 5F paste 20°/o 3'/i oz 200 g acetic acid 50°/o 2 lbs 6'ft oz 2415 g water 5% oz 320 g acetate of lime 15° Tw., 7 oz 440 g acetate of alumina 19° Tw., 3% oz 225 g oxalate of tin, 25° Tw., 10 lbs 10 kg Printed on yarn previously oiled. 6 lbs 3 lbs Alizarine Pink. 6000 g thickening III 125 Alizarine Red IB paste 20°/o S'/< 02 200 g acetic acid 50% 5% oz 3330 g water 2'/» oz 160 g acetate of lime 15° Tw., 2% oz 185 g acetate of alumina 19" Tw., 10 lbs 10 kg Printed on yarn previously oiled. 5 lbs 1 lb Alizarine Claret R with Alumina. 8 oz 5500 g thickening III 1000 g Alizarine Claret R paste 4 oz 250 g acetic acid 50 % 14 oz 1810 g water 10 oz 640 g acetate of lime 15°Tw., 13 oz 800 g acetate of alumina 19° Tw., 10 lb! 10 kg Alizarine Lilac. 6 lbs 6000 g thickening II 4 oz 250 g Alizarine Red No 1, paste 20% 3'/« oz 200 g acetic acid 50% " \ oz 3135 g watei 4 oz 250 g acetate of lime 15° Tw., 2'/t oz 165 g pyrolignite of iron 53°Tw., 10 lbs 10 kg Alizarine Blue. 5 lbs 8 oz 5500 g thickening II 5 1 /* oz 330 g Alizarine Blue SB powder 3 lbs 13 'It oz 3840 g water 5 , 02 880 g acetate of chrome 82° Tw., 10 lbs 10 kg — 99 Recipes for the Patterns on page 97. 5 lbs 3 lbs 5 9. Ce ruleine. oz 5500 g thickening II oz 300 g Ceruleine S powder oz 3475 g water oz 725 g acetate of chrome 32 Tw., 10 lbs 5'/2 lbs 2 3 / 4 3 lbs 8 l / 2 2 3 /4 9V2 10 kg 11. Alizarine Brown. 5500 g thickening II oz 170 g Alizarine Brown R powder oz 3560 g water oz 170 g borax oz 600 g neutral chrome mordant. 10 lbs. 10 k. 1 lb 6 lbs 1 lb 2'/a oz 8'/ 2 oz 13. Chromoglaucine. oz 300 g Chromoglaucine VM paste oz 1800 g water. After dissolving add: 6000 g thickening II oz 1200 g water. 150 g formic acid 98°/o 550 g acetate of chrome 32 Tw. 10 lbs 10 k. 15. Diphenyl Black Base. 3 lbs 6'/-2 oz 3400 g thickening Iaremixed into the cooled solution of 5 oz 300 g Diphenyl Black Base I 13 7» oz 850 g Acetic acid 50 % and oz 100 g acetine 3990 g water '/6 oz 10 g tartaric acid 6V0 oz 400 g acetic acid tannin solution 1:1. 10 lbs. 10 k. 100 — Recipes for the Patterns on pa»e 97. 17. F 1 a v o p b o s p h i n e. .V, lbs 5500 g thickening I 2'/4 oz 130 g Flavopbosphine R cone. new 7' i oz 450 g acclic acid 50° o l'/t oz 100 g acetine 3 lbs 4*'« oz 3290 g water '/i oz 10 g tartaric acid 8 oz 520 g acetic acid tannin solution 1:1 18. Rosazeine Scarlet. 5'/» lbs r 5500 g thickening I 100 g Rosazeine Scarlet G extra 6' '. oz 400 g acetic acid 50% 1 ' oz 100 g acetine : i oi 3490 g wa tcr 1 «i oz 10 g tartaric acid 6 02 400 g acetic acid tannin solution 1:1. 10 lbs. 10 k. 10 k. 19. Methyl Violet. 5 lbs 8 <>z 5500 g thickening I 1 oz 60 g Methyl Violet B 3'/4 oz 200 g acetic acid 50 °o ' 4 oz 50 g acetine 3 lbs 15 oz 3940 g water '/« oz 10 g tartaric acid 3 s t oz 240 g acetic acid tannin solution 1:1. 10 lbs. 10 k. 20. X ivy B 1 u e. 6 lbs 6000 g thickening I 3 4 oz 50 g Marine Blue D5R oz 150 g acetic acid 50°/o 3 t oz 50 g acetine 3 lbs 8'/s oz 3540 g water '/e oz 10 g tartaric acid 3 1 4 oz 200 g acetic acid tannin solution Ul. 10 lbs. 10 k. 21. Methylene Grey BD. 6 lbs 6000 g thickening I 1 oz 60 g Methylene Grey BD I ' oz 100 g acetic acid 50° o 1 oz 60 g acetine 3 lbs 8'/s oz 3530 g water 1 « oz 10 g tartaric Acid 3 3 4 oz 240 g acetic acid tannin solution 1:1. 10 lbs 10 k. 22. Brilliant Green. 5 lbs 5000 g thickening I 1 ' : oz 100 g Brilliant Green superior powder 1 i oz 25 g Auramine cone. 6' oz 400 g acetic acid 50°/o l 1 j oz 100 g acetine 3 lbs 14 oz 3865 g water */e oz 10 g tartaric acid 8 oz 500 g acetic acid tannin solution 1:1 10 lbs. 10 k. The printing colours 1 — 22 were printed on the iron pearl printing machine. 23. Leather Yellow Base on Linen Yarn. 100 g Leather Yellow Base O are dissolved by heating in 6' oz 400 g acetic acid 50°/o 1 ' 4 OZ 75 g acetine '/4 oz 15 g tartaric acid l'/«oz 75 g glycerine, and 7 lbs 14 s « oz 7935 g water, into which are mixed 1 lbs 1000 g tragacantfa (60 : 1000) and added 6 '/a oz 400 g acetic acid tannin solution 1:1. 24. Green on Linen Yarn. 7 lbs 11'/, oz 7720 g water 2'/° oz 150 g Alizarine Yellow 5G powder »/t oz 30 g Methylene Blue DBB 2' 4 oz 175 g formic acid 98°/o 1 lbs 3'/4 oz 1200 g tragacanth (60: 1000) 11 s 4 oz 725 g acetate of chrome 32° Tw. 10 lbs. 10 k. 10 lbs. 10 k. 101 Recipes for the Patterns on page ( .)7. 25. Red-Blue Print. Red. 1 oz 60 g Rosazeine Scarlet G extra '/« oz 50 g Rosazeine 4G 3 I* oz 50 g Safranine GGS 6'/ s oz 400 g acetic acid 50 °/o 7 lbs lO'/e oz 7635 g water 2'/ 2 oz 150 g acetine 7« oz 15 g tartaric acid 1 lbs 1000 g tragacanth (60:1000) 10>/4 oz 640 g acetic acid tannin solution 1:1. 1 Blue, g Marine Blue DBI 4 '/a oz 280 g acetic acid 50 > 8 lbs 5'/» oz 8350 g water 1 oz 60 g acetine 'la oz 10 g tartaric acid 1 lbs 1000 g tragacanth (60:1000) 3 3 /4 oz 240 g acetic acid tannin solution 1:1. 10 lbs 111 k. 10 lbs. 10 k. 26. Pink-Lightgreen Print. Lightgreen. Pink. 17« oz 100 g Methylene Yellow H 2 /3 OZ 40 g Rosazeine 4G V* dr 3 g Brilliant Green superior 1 OZ 60 g Rosazeine Scarlet G extra powder 4 oz 250 g acetic acid 50°/o 4 oz 250 g acetic acid 50°/o VI 2 oz 100 g acetine 1'/= oz 100 g acetine 7 lbs 15 oz 7940 g water V. oz 10 g tartaric acid V« oz 10 g tartaric acid 7 lbs 15'/ 2 oz 7987 g water 1 lb 3'/< oz 1200 g tragacanth (60 : 1000) 1 lb 37< oz 1200 g tragacanth (60 : 1000) 6'/2 oz 400 g acetic acid tannin solu- 5'/. oz 350 g acetic acid tannin solu- tion 1 : 1 tion 1 : 1 1 i") Itis in ko 10 lbs 27. Yellow -Heliotrope Print. Yellow. 2 /3 oz 40 g Auramine cone. l'/s oz 100 g acetic acid 50°/o */a oz 40 g acetine 8 lbs Vli oz 8450 g water '/a oz 10 g tartaric acid 1 lb 3'/i oz 1200 g tragacanth (60 : 1000) 2'/» oz 160 g acetic acid tannin solu- tion 1 : 1 10 lbs 10 kg He 1 i o trope. 2 3 oz 40 g Methylene Heliotrope O l'/s oz 100 g acetic acid 50 "/a 2 /3 oz 40 g acetine 8 lbs 7'li oz 8450 g water \s oz 10 g tartaric acid 1 lb 3' 4 oz 1200 g tragacanth (60:1000) 2 1 a oz 160 g acetic acid tannin solu- tion 1 : 1 10 lbs 10 kg — 102 — Recipes for the l'atterns on pa 28. Black - Li gh t blue Print. Black. 5 oz 300 g Diphenyl Black Base I, dis- solved in l3*/< "'■ 850 g acetic acid 50 8 /o and 6'/j oz 400 g lactic acid 50'/» then left to cool and mixed into 1 lb 8 oz 1500 g gum solution 1 : 1 and 2 lbs l*/« oz 2107 g water OZ 175 g aluminium chlo- ride 53 ° Tw„ and /- 28 g copper chloride 77 " Tw., are dissolved in 1 lb 1000 g water and 8 oz 500 g gum solution 1 : 1 then the cooled solution of 4 oz 250 g sodium chlorate and 2 lbs 14 1 ,4 oz 2890 g water is added. L i g h t b I u e. 25 g Thionine l'.lue GO I 7"> g antic acid M" o 1 OZ 25 g acetine 8 lbs 9\ 4 oz 8570 g ',,.<•/ 5 g tartaric acid 1 Hi B l l* oz 1200 g tragacanth (60:1000) I oz 100 g acetic acid tannin solu- tion 1 : 1 10 lbs 10 kg 10 kg Standard Colour 1( is added before use to Standard Colour A. The printing colours 23—28 were printed on the wooden printing machine. 29. D i a n i 1 Brown. Discharged with: 1 lb 1000 g Hydrosulphite NF cone. 7500 g water 1' lbs 1500 g tr agacanth (60 : 1000) 10 lbs 10 kg 10 lbs 10 kg The printing colours 29 and 30 were printed on the multi-colour iron machine. 30. Paranitr aniline Red. Discharged with : 2 lbs 2000 g Hydrosulphite NF cone. 6500 g water 1 '■■ lbs 1500 g tragacanth (60:1000) -o®<^ IV. COTTON PIECE DYEING. PREPARATION FOR DYEING. Cotton piece goods are dyed either as taken from the loom, or after various preceding treatments. The most important and most usual treatments are singeing, bleaching and mercerising, all of which are described in a brief chapter of vol. IV. Besides these preparatory treatments there are others, notably crabbing and steaming, which are chiefly used for better class fabrics for the purpose of imparting to the cloth a closer and more glossy surface. The Crabbing Machine, fig. 23, consists of three troughs over each of Fig. 23. which a pair of heavy iron rollers is placed. Half of the lower rollers are sunk into the troughs, and are connected with reversible gear. The upper rollers — KM — can be lifted or lowered by means of levers, and pressed by weights upon the lower rollers. The cloth is rolled under tension, at full width and evenly, upon the roller of the first trough, and, weighted by the upper roller, passes for a shorter or longer time, according to its quality, through boiling water to which, if n< ome soda has been added. In the second part of the machine the same treatment is repeated with boiling water, and in the third part the cloth is cooled by passing through cold water. The crabbing, especially for cotton Italians and similar goods, is followed by steaming. The crabbed goods are rolled evenly upon hollow per- forated, cloth-covered metal cylinders, and then wrapped in canvas which is tied up at both ends. These cylinders are then placed upon a steam pipe, and steamed for about 10 minutes under slight pressure. Usually after cooling the cloth is re-rolled upon a second steaming or decatizing cylinder, steamed once more in the same manner, and then dried. Cotton stuffs with a short pile, such as Corduroys, Velvets and Velveteens, require a rather different preparation before dyeing: After passing through the Velvet-cutting machine, the goods are tightly packed into cisterns made of wood or cement, and soaked for 48 hours in cold water to which yeast, malt or diastaphor has been added. The liquid is then heated and cir- culated by means of an injector or pump; it is brought to the boil within 6 hours and kept at this temperature for other 6 hours. Alter boiling the goods are left overnight in the basin, then the water is drawn off, and the goods washed hot for an hour in the winch or beck. By this means they are perfectly cleansed and the pile closed up. The goods are then hydroextracted at full width, or drained and dried. The further treatment of velvet consists in repeated brushing and singeing, operations which must be changed according to the quality of the fabric, but carried out thoroughly, because they cannot be executed after dyeing. Corduroys, if starched before cutting, are treated like Velvets and Vel- veteens. Unstarched Corduroys are freed from size in the winch, hot. After hydroextracting and drying the goods are worked in the same manner as Velvet, and if necessary passed through a raising machine. Corduroys are singed on the gas singeing machine, Velvets and Velveteens on the plate or cylinder singeing machine. All manipulations must be carried out with the care indispensible for this class of goods, in order to avoid spots or unevenness of the pile. For that I mi pose and to prevent them from creasing it is necessary to pass the goods at the preparatory treatment piece by piece as straight as possible, by setting the machines most accurately and, especially when dealing with Velvets, great care is required to avoid friction on the back of the goods. -Moleskins, heavy cotton dress goods are effectively freed from size before dyeing by means of malt or malt preparations. The pieces are '1 on the jigger 3—4 times through boiling water which is then run off, after which the vessel is refilled with cold water, and about l x jt litres barley — 105 — malt, previously macerated with tepid water, are then added for every 100 kg (100 lbs) of cloth. The liquid is sufficiently heated by the still warm material which is passed through about 6 or 8 times. Instead of malt, 1 J2 — Vs of the quantity of Diastophor may be used. Finally the goods are boiled with some soda, and are then sufficiently prepared for dyeing. — Light and medium weight Cotton Fabrics which are dyed in the half — or fully bleached state, are best passed after bleaching through a water calander with 2 cotton rollers and one intermediate bronze roller (fig. 24 of the .Fig 24. Elsassische Maschinenbau-Gesellschaft, Miihlhausen i. E.). Through these the cloth is squeezed to ab' 80°/o. Thus prepared, it is better fitted for dyeing than in the dried state, and moreover one drying operation is dispensed with. -o@e=~ The machines used in dyeing cotton piece goods are : the winch, the jigger, the padding machine, the continuous dyeing machine, the foularding machine. A. DYEING IN THE CISTERN. The dyeing winch is the simplest form of machine for piece dyeing. Over a wooden or iron cistern, one side of which is slanting, a roller is placed which is turned mechanically by special driving gear. The material to be dyed is passed over it, the ends being sewn together. In this manner the cloth, which is opened out by hand whilst the machine is running, is passed con- tinually through the dyeing trough. The goods are worked in the 20 — 30 fold quantity of liquid ; several drafts may be dyed simultaneously if the fabric — 106 — permits it. For winch dyeing, such goods are particularly suitable as cannot be dyed on the jigger or other appliances, e. g. hosiery goods, which get easily stretched out of shape, very heavy cotton Velvets etc. Winch dyeing, owing to the material being left in the dyebath in a loose condition, has the advantage that the goods are more thoroughly dyed than in other machines. Fig. 25. The dyebaths are made up according to the known methods ; the tem- perature, the time for dyeing etc., depend upon the nature of the fabric and the colours required. It may sometimes happen, especially with deeper colours and heavy goods, that the time for letting off the dyebath and refilling the winch with washwater is too short to prevent faults. These faults are often due Fig. 20. — 107 — to some of the hot liquid contained in the inner parts trickling through upon the outer, cooled parts and thus producing light spots ; this evil can be remedied however by passing the goods through hot water immediately after dyeing. Where there are no double ranges, this may be done by using a transportable rinsing vessel, as sketched in fig. 26. The same effect can be produced by a combination of winch and rinsing vessels, as shewn in fig. 27, an apparatus made by the ,,Zittauer Maschinen- Fabrik A.-G". B. DYEING ON THE JIGGER. Dyeing on the jigger is the most convenient and safest form of dyeing cotton goods, and preferable wherever the working on the winch can be avoided. When dyeing on the jigger a concentrated liquid 1 : 3 or 1 : 5 is used. The liquid is generally kept at the boil by indirect steam. The dyeing operation usually lasts one hour. Fabrics that cannot stand the pressure of rollers, such as Velvets, Cor- duroys etc., are not squeezed out but rinsed directly after dyeing. In that case it is advisable to provide the jigger with a squirting apparatus. Very wide hosiery goods are also dyed on the jigger, which is best driven by hand for this purpose. While one man turns the handle, another opens out the cloth at full width ; thus it is possible to work slower or faster, according to the requirements or the behaviour of the fabric in dyeing. The dj'eing on the jigger presents no difficulties when the material is wound evenly on to the rollers and runs on them smoothly without creasing. The troughs of the jigger are made of either wood or iron, the wooden or iron guide rollers running in pockwood sockets. 108 — Fig. 28. In dvcing with Sulphur colours two jiggers are usually combined. The first, or so-called dye jigger, is fitted with an iron squeezing roller covered with India rubber which rests loosely on bent levers. This squeezing roller can be still further weighted; the machine contains a contrivance by means of which the pressure roller can be lifted at will from the pulling roller. The squeezing apparatus is only used after dyeing; from there the cloth is passed direct into the second jigger, the rinsing jigger, in which it is being washed in cold water until the washwater runs off colourless. In larger concerns the rinsing jigger is combined with several successive colour jiggers by corresponding guide rollers. When dyeing light shades the dyebath must be renewed for each lot; for medium and dark shades the old baths may be used over again, in order to economize the dyestuff; the old baths require about 15 — 20 °o less than the original baths. Light shades are dyed at a temperature of 104 — 122° F., dark shades at the boil. The time of dyeing is '/* to 1 hour, according to the depth of the shade and the size of the rollers. .Many fabrics, especially in lighter or medium shades, (except such as are produced with Sulphur colours), can be frydroextracted and dried immediately after being taken out of the dyebath. Full shades and those which have to be developed or aftertreated with metal salts are first rinsed. 109 — C. DYEING ON THE PADDING MACHINE. The dyeing on the padding machine differs from that on the jigger in that by the former method the cloth is squeezed out each time it passes through the dye liquid. The padding machines are constructed with either two or three rollers. The following sketches 29, 30 and 31 built by the Maschinenfabrik Fr. Gebauer in Berlin, illustrate the running of the cloth. Fie. 29. Fig. 30. Fig. 31. The sides of the frame, which are connected by traverses, hold a bottom roller covered with India rubber, on which rests one or two upper rollers covered with brass, copper or iron. These are pressed firmly together by double lever pressure, and are worked by friction motion or direct driving gear. The cloth, passing at first over expanders, is conducted into the box placed below the squeezing rollers; it takes up the colour, after which it is squeezed out between the rollers of the padding machine and then re-wound on a loose roller. This rests on 2 slanting arms, and rises automatically whilst the material is winding itself upon it. This loose roller can be taken off or can again be placed on the bottom brackets, if the cloth is again to pass through the liquid. This operation is continued until the desired shade is produced. The padding machines are extensively used in piece dyeing, not only for dyeing but for washing, for which purpose they are provided with squirting pipes, and also as finishing and starching machines. — 110 — D. DYEING ON THE CONTINUOUS DYEING MACHINE. The continuous machines are typical arrangements for working on a large scale, when alone they can be employed to advantage. They were evolved out of 1 i the old so-called grey dyeing machine on which was produced the lining — grey by successive immersions into logwood iron and rinsing baths, and it of the Indigo dyeing machine consisting of one or more vats, through which the material ran continuously. Particulars as to Indigo dyeing in this vat will be found on page 175 of vol. I. Besides Indigo, the colours chiefly dyed in the continuous machines are greys, blacks and darkblues, in some cases also browns and Para red. The operation of dyeing Para red on pieces has already been described on page 230 vol. I. The dyeing apparatus for Black usually consists of large roller cisterns containing several divisions, between each of which a pair of squeezing rollers is placed. Fig. 32 shows such a machine adapted for Dianil Black. This method is chiefly used for cheap linings. In the first portion of the machine the cloth is passed through a boiling soda bath (about 1° soda calc.) which is replenished during the operation by the addition of fresh soda (about l J2°jv of the weight of the goods). After being squeezed out, the cloth passes into compartments which contain the dye liquid and are kept at the boil by indirect steam. I'm- the initial baths 2 1 /s oz p. gall. (15 g p, 1.) Patent Dianil Black FF cone, or EB cone. are used, being added in portions of 3 to 3 Va °/o of dyestuff of the weight of the goods either continuously during the running of the machine, or after the passing through of each piece. The soda bath must be renewed daily, whereas the dyebaths may be used for an indefinite period. — Ill — The fabric having taken up some alkali from the first cistern, carries this into the dyebaths, therefore an addition of about 1 '/* oz (100 g) Soda per lb. (ko.) dyestuff to the dyebaths (at the time of dissolving) suffices. The passage through the dyebath must last 3 — 4 minutes and the goods, when taken out, must be allowed to lie for about an hour before washing. The three cisterns contain collectively about 800 — 1000 gall. (4000 litres) liquid. The production is about 1000 metres per hour. Blacks of greater fastness, yet as simply produced, are obtained by using Thiogene Black. Fig. 33. As seen from fig. 33 the apparatus consists of a small roller cistern, con- nected with a working broad-washing machine, containing powerful agitators. The dry cloth passes within 30 seconds through the colour liquid in the roller cistern which is kept at boiling temperature by indirect steam. It is then passed through a pair of squeezing rollers, and then directly into the broad-washing machine. It is essential so to manipulate the operation as to make the passage through the air as short as possible: between the colour liquid and the squeezing rollers on the one hand, and between these and the washing machine on the other; the impurities from the first washing vessel run off over its upper rim. While the machine is running the boiling padding bath is kept at equal strength by a continuous addition of fresh liquid. According to quality the goods take up 80— 90°/o of the padding liquid; they pass then into the washing machine containing agitators and having a sufficient supply of running water. The three patterns given below were pro- duced in this manner. The padding bath contained in 100 litres (100 gall.) water: 2'i oz 15 g Thiogene Padding Black liquid M l 1 ^ oz 7,5 g Sodium Sulphide cryst. 3 /4 oz 5 g caustic soda 77° Tw. Thiogene Blues and other Thiogene Colours can also be dyed by means of the continuous process, especially Thiogene Blue B has attained practical — 1112 — importance, for being easily and evenly produced on cotton and linen as well as on half-linen piece goods. Where a large production is concerned, a roller cistern with airing in- stallation is employed; the latter must be of such a length (20 yds) that the goods, after leaving the hot dyebath, are perfectly cooled before being plaited down or wound upon the rollers. Dark shades can be obtained with Thiogene Blue B in one passage by the continuous method. Fig. 34. — 113 — For production on a small scale a pair of jiggers placed one behind the other can be employed. To the one, as shown in fig. 34, some rollers are affixed which in conjunction with those inside the jigger box form the airing apparatus. This jigger can be otherwise employed afterwards. E. PADDING OR FOULARDING. Broadly speaking, padding or foularding means dyeing by a short im- mersion of only a few seconds in the dyebath. For foularding the previously described padding machines are used. The dyeing troughs of the foularding machine are, as a rule, much smaller and somewhat different in construction Fig. 35. from those of the padding machines. After foularding, for which, before all, the direct colours are suitable, the goods are not washed but dried direct. In productions on a large scale the hotflue in combination with the foularding machine serves this purpose. Fig. 35 shows such an arrangement, constructed by the Elsassische Maschinenbau-Gesellschaf t Miilhausen i. E. The foularding machine itself is suitably constructed according to the arrangement shown in fig. 36. 8 n - 1H Fig. 36. The bath is prepared in a high level cistern, which is heated by in- direct steam. The padding liquid runs into a feeding channel and from thence is divided over the whole breadth of the dye trough which is capable of holding 2 1 /s litres (2 qts.) (the 2 roller foulards 1 '/a litres (3 pints). Several guide rollers are fixed within the dye trough. After foularding the goods are dried in the hotflue or on the cylinder drying machine. The foularding machine is supposed to run at a speed of 40 — 50 yds. per minute, and the pressure must be such that the goods absorb an amount of foularding liquid equal to 60 — 70 °/o of their weight. The bath is made up as follows : The first vessel is about half filled with water. Into this the solutions of dextrine and sodium phosphate are put, then the previously boiled and filtered colour solution is added, and the vessel filled up to a certain mark. In order to operate successfully, a machine working smoothly and with even pressure is essential. The temperature of the foularding bath, which is kept at the same height in the first vessel, must be even throughout the whole trough, which is made possible by the feeding channel supplying the whole ■lih of the box. The foularding bath can easily be kept at the same level by arranging a slight overflow during the operation. — 115 — The padding baths contain: for light shades, for medium shades, for dar k shades Dyestuff about i \t, oz 10 g l J /2 oz 100 g 8 oz 500 g Turkey red oil 2 lb 2000 g — — — Sodium phosphate 4 oz 250 g 8 oz 500 g 8 oz 500 g Dextrine V\-i lb 1500 g V\i lb 1500 g 1 '/a lb 1500 g Water 92*/s lb 92,6 It 97 3 ,'4 lb 97,9 It 97 l /s lb 97,5 It 100 lb 100 It 100 lb 100 It 100 1b 100 It Light shades are p added twice at 101—122° F, dark shades at 158- -176° F, and then dried. The following Dianil Colours are suitable for this method: Dianil Yellow 2 R, 3G. Dianil Violet H. Dianil Direct Yellow S. Dianil Brown 3 GO, R, G, BD, M, B, D. Aurophenine O, I. Dianil Fast Brown B. Cresotine Yellow G. Dianil Japonine G, Oxydianil Yellow O. Dianil Green G, B. Dianil Orange G, N. Dianil Darkgreen B. Toluylene Orange R. Dianil Blue, all brands. Dianil Red R, 4B, 6B, 10 B. Dianil Dark Blue R, 3R. Brilliant Dianil Red R, R cone. Dianil Black R, PR, CR. Deltapurpurine 5B. Patent Dianil Black FF cone, EB cone, Dianil Fast Scarlet 4BS, 8BS. EF cone. Dianil Pink BD. ^x8*=~ Multicoloured and rainbow effects, ombres, on cloths are produced either by printing, by the dipping process, by blowing colour solutions upon the material, or lastly by padding. All these processes have smaller or larger defects, attributable to the com- plication of the apparatus, the difficulty in tending the machines, the insufficient fixation of the colours etc. In order to produce ombres, very accurate manipulation is necessary. This applies therefore also to a process patented by us (D. R. P. N. 177276) by which the padding machine is made use of for producing ombre effects. A few illustrations on page 122 show various ombres obtained on a trial machine at our dyeworks. The shaded colour solutions are transmitted from a partitioned dye trough, by means of a correspondingly partitioned transfer roller, on to the lower roller of a padding machine. Here they run into one another, and are thus trans- ferred to the cloth, and fixed by the pressure of the upper roller. The transfer of the separate colour solutions to the well-wrapped lower roller effects the gradual shading of the colours, an effect for which the new process is specially distinguished. — 116 — The pressure roller must be most accurately regulated, this is indispensable for the success of the operation, and the machine must be served by a skilled workman. The machine represented by figs. 37 and 38, is constructed by the firm of C. G. Haubold jun. of Chemnitz. Fig. 37 Fig. 38. For the application of this process to cotton fabrics, the Dianil and the basic Colours are particularly well adapted. The following directions contain the composition of the colours for goods up to 110 cm width; the roller has 22 sections. A. FOR DIANIL COLOURS. Colour solution: Dilution : 3 ' 4 oz 200 g Dianil dyestuff 4 oz 250 g Sodium phosphate 10 lbs (1 gall.) 10 litres condensed water. 4 oz 250 g sodium phosphate 10 lbs (1 gall.) 10 litres condensed water. I. Shading of Colours from dark to light from Selvedge to Selvedge: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. Colour solution I: 1000 800 650 500 400 320 250 200 150 100 75 Dilution : 1000 1200 1350 1500 1600 1680 1750 1800 1850 1900 1925 20. Colour solution I: Dilution : Colour solution I : Dilution : 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. GO 50 40 32 25 20 15 10 7.5 1940 1950 19(50 1968 1975 1980 1985 1990 1992,5 21. 22. 2,5 1995 1997,5. — 117 — II. Shading of Colours from dark to light in the middle and to dark again at the other Selvedge: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. Colour solution I: 1000 800 600 450 300 200 125 75 50 Dilution : 1000 1200 1400 1550 1700 1800 1875 1925 1950 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. Colour solution I: 40 30 30 40 50 75 125 200 300 Dilution : 1960 19. 1970 20. 1970 21. 1960 22. 1950 192:, 1875 1800 1700 Colour solution I : 450 600 800 1000 Dilution : 1550 1400 1200 1000. III. Shading of one Colour into another from Selvedge to Selvedge, with light Shading in the Middle. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. Colour solution I: 1000 800 600 450 3( )0 2( )0 12 5 75 50 40 „ II: 5 10 Dilution : 1000 1200 1400 1 550 17 00 1800 181 '5 192; 3 1945 1950 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. Colour solution I: :!0 20 10 5 — — — ,. II: 20 30 40 50 7 5 125 200 300 Dilution : 1950 1950 1950 1945 19 25 1875 1800 1700 19. 20. 21. 22. Colour solution I: — — — — .. II: 450 600 800 1000 Dilution: 1550 1400 1200 1000. IV. Shading of One Cc ilour i into another from Selve dge to Selvedge. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Colour solution I : 1000 950 900 850 800 750 700 650 600 ,> II: — 50 100 150 200 250 300 350 400 Dilution : 1000 1000 1000 1000 1000 1000 1000 1000 1000 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. Colour solution I : 550 525 475 450 400 350 300 250 200 „ II: 450 475 525 550 600 650 700 750 800 Dilution : 1000 19. 1000 20. 1000 21. 1000 22. 1000 1000 1000 1000 1000 Colour solution I : 150 100 50 — ,. II: 850 900 950 1000 Dilution : 1000 1000 1000 1000. The following Dianil Colours are specially suitable : Patent Dianil Black FF cone. (Grey), Dianil Brown BD, Dianil Brown 3GO (Orange Brown), Dianil Azurine G (Blue), Dianil Blue R, B, G (bright Blue of — 118 - reddish to pure blue shade), Dianil Dark Blue K ■ pale Bluet, Dianil Claret B (blueish Red, or Strawberry Colour), Dianil Green (pale Green) etc. The well bleached goods are passed once through the foulard between the wrapped and the pressure roller, while the sectional roller is being slightly sed against the lower roller of the foulard, whereby the colour is transferred to it. Then, if necessary, the goods are passed a second time between the wrapped and the pressure roller, in order to equalize the transfers and obtain a thorough penetration. The pieces are dried either entirely on hot cylinders, or tlu \ are only slightly dried and then passed for 5 minutes through the Mather- Piatt quick steaming installation in order to fix the colours perfectly. B. FOR BASIC COLOURS. Thin Colour solutions (diss, with acetic acid) are used in corresponding gradations, the goods padded with them on the Ombre apparatus, dried and passed on another padding machine through a tannin solution (30 g for every litre), dried and steamed in the Mather-Platt. They are afterwards passed through a Tartar emetic bath (15 g for every litre at 95° F) in a roller cistern, washed and dried. The basic colours having a certain affinity to the unmordanted fibre, are already partially fixed at the foularding operation; therefore it is advisable to increase the quantity of acetic acid in the lighter colour solutions, so as to prevent a premature fixation which counteracts the equalisation and the running of the colours into one another. The basic colours can also be used for padding as very strong acid solutions together with tannin, although this process is less recommcndable on account of the large consumption of acetic acid. I. Rainbi Effects with Basic Colours. a) Thionine Blue GO b) Brilliant Green cryst. extra c) Auramine cone. d) Flavophosphine R cone, new e) Safranine GGS 3. 100 g dyestuff 100 g acetic acid diluted with condensed water to 10 litres each. 4. r>. 6. 7. 8. 9. in. a) Thionine Blue solution: b) Brilliant Green ,, c) Auramine ,, d) Flavophosphine ,, e) Safranine ,, a) Thionine Blue solution: b) Brilliant Green „ c) Auramine „ ill Flavophosphine ,, e) Safranine ,, 1. 2. 1000 500 — 500 1000 750 500 250 150 75 30 10 — — — 250 500 750 850 925 970 990 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. IS. 19. 20. 1000 6G7 333 — — — — — — — — 333 (167 100u 900 750 500 250 100 — — — — Kin 250 500 75ii 90(i L000 — 119 — It may be mentioned that, with a greater number of colour compartments in the dye trough and the correspondingly increased number of sections of the transfer roller, the gradations can be improved upon by inserting between each colour solution the intermediate shade. This arrangement is especially advan- tageous for rather difficult colour gradations. II. Gradation from Light to Dark from Selvedge to Selvedge. 150 g dyestuff 1000 g acetic acid J Colour solution, diluted with condensed water to 10 litres 1000 g acetic acid | . 9000 g condensed water 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. Colour solution: 50 54 60 68 80 96 116 140 170 200 Dilution: 950 946 940 932 920 904 884 860 830 800 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. Colour solution: 260 320 395 495 620 770 1000 — — — Dilution: 740 680 605 505 380 230 — — — — The goods are padded, dried, padded with tannin solution 30 g per litre, dried, steamed, passed through Tartar emetic solution 15 g per litre, washed, dried. The following basic colours are suitable for this process, especially Methylene Heliotrope O, Methylene Blue, Thionine Blue GO, Methylene Green extra yellow cone, Malachite Green crys. extra, Brilliant Green crys. extra, Auramine cone, the Flavophosphines, the Safranines, Rhodamine 4G extra, etc. The basic colours are also used for gradations of one-colour effects : The compartments contain tannin solutions of various strength, e. g. : I II III IV V VI VII VIII IX X XI Tannin solution 50/L 1000 850 700 600 500 420 350 280 240 200 100 Water 150 300 400 500 580 650 720 760 800 900 XII XIII XIV XV XVI XVII XVIII XIX XX XXI XXII 100 200 240 280 350 420 500 600 700 850 1000 900 800 760 720 650 580 500 400 300 150 The following is an example for quick change of dark shades : I II III IV V VI VII VIII IX X XI Tannin 1000 800 600 400 200 100 200 400 600 800 1000 Water 200 400 600 800 900 800 600 400 200 After foularding the goods are dried, passed through the Mather-Platt, fixed with Tartar emetic, and then dyed with basic colours. — 120 — Recipes for the Ombre Effects shown on page 121. 1. 75 ^ Methylene Heliotrope O | 2 lbs 2000 g acetic acid 12 Tw. Colour solution diluted with condensed water to 10 litres I 2 lbs 2000 g acetic acid | 8 lbs 8000 g condensed water ) unution 1 2 :| 4 5 6 7 Colour solution 1000 700 500 300 200 100 50 Dilution : — 300 500 700 800 900 950 8 9 10 n IS 13 14 Colour solution 50 100 200 300 500 700 1000 Dilution: 950 900 800 700 500 300 1000 After dyeing the goods are passed cold through tannin ('/. oz per lb, 20 g per litre), dried, steamed, passed through Tartar emetic C/4 oz per lb, 10 g per litre) washed and dried. 2. 3 /< oz 50 g Dianil Brown 3 GO "It oz 50 g Dianil Brown KM l'/s oz 100 g sodium phosphate diluted with condensed water to 10 litres '/< oz 50 g Dianil Green G Vj t oz 75 g Dianil Yellow 3G 1 ' . oz 100 g sodium phosphate diluted with condensed water to 10 litres 100 g sodium phosphate in Colour solution A Colour solution B l'/o oz 10 lbs Colour solution A : Colour solution B: Dilution: 10 litres condensed water 12 3 4 600 400 200 100 Dilution 400 600 800 900 1000 1000 100 900 200 800 400 600 600 400 Alter dyeing the goods are dried, steamed for 5 minutes in the Mather-Platt, washed and dried. 3. 2'/s oz 150 g Dianil Claret B I l'/l oz 100 g sodium phosphate I Colour solution A diluted with condensed water to 10 litres J l'/a oz 100 g Patent Dianil Black FF cone, l'/a oz 100 g sodium phosphate I Colour solution B diluted with condensed water to 10 litres ) l'/« oz 100 g sodium phosphate 10 lbs 10 litres condensed water Dilution Colour solution A: Colour solution B: Dilution: 600 2 :i 400 200 100 — 400 600 800 900 After dyeing, the goods are dried, dried again. 1000 1000 100 900 200 800 400 600 10 600 400 steamed for 5 minutes in the Mather-Platt, washed and l'/4 4. extra 1 lb 2'/» 1 lb 2 oz 1\4 1 lb 25 g Brilliant Green cry! 75 g Auramine cone. 1000 g acetic acid 12 Tw. diluted with condensed water to 10 litres 75 g Brilliant Green crys. extra 1000 g acetic acid 12 " I w. diluted with condensed water to 10 litres 150 g Methylene Blue BB cone. 1000 g acetic acid 12" Tw. diluted with condensed water to 10 litres 120 g Methylene Blue BB cone. 75 g Methylene Heliotrope O, 1000 g acetic acid 12" I w. diluted with condensed water to 10 litres Colour solution A Colour solution B Colour solution C Colour solution D 1000 1000 Colour solution A: Colour Bolutioi 1 1000 — 1000 — Colour solution C: — — 1000 — — 1000 — — Colour solution D: — — — 1000 1000 — — — The half silk cloth had been previously mordanted with 2",o tannin ami 1",, Tartar emetic. After dyeing it was dried, steamed for 5 minutes in the Mather-Platt. washed and dried again. — 121 — OMBRE EFFECTS ON COTTON AND HALF SILK. ■HHHH 1 1 1 1 f ■-# . | | 1 ■mm I i ^ 8 a II — 122 — In connection with padding there are other methods carried out by means of printing machines which may here be briefly sketched. Cotton fabrics with raised designs are printed on the back by means of a fine Picot roller, so that the raised design on the face remains white, viz. white effects on coloured grounds are obtained which have the appearance of multicoloured woven fabrics. The effects thus obtained may be further varied by printing on the face by way of surface rollers, which also give a two-coloured effect. The following tw^o patterns Lapez cloth have been produced by the first described method. The pink with Dianil Pink BD, the light blue with Dianil Blue HG. The goods are foularded on the back with the roller printing machine, with 1,5 g dyestuff, 6 oz 368,5 g water, 9 1 /" oz 600 g tragacanth (60:1000), 1 jt oz 20 g sodium phosphate, l /i oz 20 g Turkey red oil. 1 lb 1 kg After printing the goods are dried and the colours fixed by steaming for a short time. Various other articles, imitating piece dyed effects are also produced with the aid of the printing machine. The so-called Reversibles are fabrics dyed in different colours on both sides ; they are chiefly used for Linings and Umbrella cloths. The Calicoes for book binding purposes also belong to this category. For these goods, lake colours which are fixed with blood albumen are used exclusively, because with them it is easier to obtain an even print on one side of the cloth. These colours answer the requirements as to fastness etc. very satisfactorily as these goods are not subjected to washing. The colours are printed upon the face side of the cloth, by means of rollers which are very evenly engraved, and special care must be taken that the pressure of the rollers is perfectly even all over and not too strong. — 123 — For the preparation of the printing colours lake colours are used, as e. g. soot for Grey, logwood for Black, Ultramarine for Blue, Chrome Yellow for Yellow, Chrome Orange for Orange, Ochre for Brown, Pigment Red for Red, etc. For thickening, a mixture of tragacanth and albumen water is used, to which some turpentine is added is order to prevent it from frothing. After printing the goods are steamed either in the closed steam box or in the continuous steamer, and then immediately finished. Instead of using the printing machine throughout, Reversibles are also produced by dyeing the cloth first to a drab shade, and then padding black on the back by means of an apparatus as represented in fig. 39 ot the ,,Maschinenfabrik Fr. Gebauer in Berlin". The cloth, passes under tension over twice picotted rollers which receive the colours from a transfer roller rotating in furnishing boxes underneath. Having taken up the printing colours, they are then passed over heated metal plates, and finally dried on the drying cylinder. — =*S*=~ WASHING. For washing and rinsing broad washing- or padding machines are generally used, unless the goods are washed in the dyeing machine. The washed goods leave these machines through squeezing rollers (retaining about — 124 — o of liquid only). Fabrics unable to stand this process and whose ap- pearance suffers under the pressure of the squeezing rollers, are hydroextracted, for which purpose not only the centrifugal machine, but also the broad hydro- extractor are to be considered. Fig. 40. Fig. 40 illustrates the principle of the broad hydroextractor. Recently another system has come into practical use : to employ suction for removing moisture from pieces. In these machines the cloth runs over the slit of a suction arrangement (Fig. 41) which is connected with a so-called receiver. The latter regulates the vacuum and at the same time receives the drawn off liquid; it also contains a special valve by means of which the water is automatically removed. Fig. 41. — 125 — J. P. Bemberg of Barmen-Rittershausen has constructed a de-hydrator on the principle of a decalizing cylinder. In this apparatus (Fig. 42) the water is blown out of wet goods by means of compressed air. The pieces are wound on a perforated cylinder, one end of which is hermetically closed whilst the other end is rested air-tight upon the protruding part of an outlet valve. Over the whole a tight-fitting „bell" is placed. Compressed air is let into this bell and this, passing from without to within through the pieces on the perforated cylinder, removes about 60°/o of liquid. C=^ /////////////, Fig. 42. This process has this advantage over the ordinary hydroextracting, that the pieces need not be frequently rolled and unrolled, which means saving of time and labour. DRYING. The goods, according to their nature and mode of dyeing, are dried on frames in the open, by steam and artificial ventilation, hotflue, drying cylinders or hot air tentering machines. Generally, the lower the temperature at which the dyed fabrics are dried, the less the shades alter. For that reason the most advantageous process is to hang the goods for drying: but as this process requires too much room and too long a time, drying on machines is generally preferred. The hotflue is employed mostly in combination with the padding machine; and the most — 126 — efficient machine is the cylinder drying machine. As in working with this machine, the cloth comes directly into contact with the heated metal surface of the cylinders, it is necessary to dry on them only such colours as will resist heat, namely colours fast to ironing. If mordants or colours are to be dried which are sensitive to metal, the cylinders must be covered with cotton cloth. Drying by hanging and still more dying on the drums makes the goods shrink more or less in width. To meet this drawback and at the same time to prevent the cloth from stretching out of shape, the construction of the hot air tcntering-machines has been devised. In point of efficiency they do not equal the cylinder drying machines and therefore both machines are often com- bined. In working on tentering frames, the cloth is taken up at the selvedges by pins or clasps and thus conducted through a well ventilated hot air chamber. The further treatment of dyed cotton fabrics consists in the finishing process. Naturally, the many-sided demands and the diversity of articles do not admit of any fixed rule for these operations. In the following lines, therefore, only a general sketch of the methods of finishing is attempted. In most cases the dyed goods are passed through the finishing preparation by means of starching machines, after which they are dried and finished on a great variety of machines. For finishing purposes various kinds of starch are used for stiffening, fats, oils, wax, glycerine for softening and imparting suppleness, minerals and salts for weighting, antiseptics for preventing the formation of mould on the cloth. Sometimes the goods are made incombustible by treating them with certain salts, or waterproofed by impregnating them in various ways. The outer appearance and the handle of the fabrics is altered by machines of very manifold constructions. Such machines are the singeing-, shearing-, raising-, brushing-, steaming-, sprinkling-, breaking machines, calanders, mangle-, beetle- and embossing machines. These manipulations will be referred to when dealing with the separate kinds of fabrics. — =*gc— — 127 — HALF SILK DYEING. Silk and Cotton Fabrics. The half silk cloth is treated before dyeing, like all silk, in a hot soap bath of 194 — 203° F; if necessary, it is previously bleached. For bleaching Peroxide of Hydrogen is used. The goods are treated for 4 — 5 hours in a solution of 3 /4 parts of Silicate of Soda of 77° Tw. to every 10 parts of Peroxyde. Then the cloth must be thoroughly washed. The dyeing is carried out in the which or on the jigger. Closely woven half silk fabrics which are not easily dyed through, are best dyed in the winch, lighter qualities on the jigger. An improved method for half silk dyeing is described in the German patent No. 173876 and illustrated in fig. 43 and 44. Fig. 43. Fig. 44. Before the cloth which is winding itself onto and off the rollers enters the dye bath in the jigger, it is vigorously sprinkled over with dye liquid ; the latter is sucked up by a vacuum into squirting pipes and these blow the liquid in a fine spray over and through the texture of the material. By this means the dye liquid penetrates the fabric boiling hot and effects an initial dyeing. After the cloth has left the dye bath, and before it is wound upon the rollers, this process is repeated. The supply of air to the squirting pipes is effected through separate pipes, which are connected in their turn with the sucking tubes. The action of the latter is regulated by small valves which are opened or shut according to the width of the cloth. In order to obtain a constant movement of the dye liquid during the dyeing operation, a pump is connected with the jigger in such a manner as to cause the liquid to circulate from the jigger trough to the pump and back again. Cotton and silk behave in regard to the dyestuffs either in the same or in different manner; a summary of which is given below. — 128 — a) Dianil Colours. The dyebath for light and medium shades contains per litre : 2 — 3 g soap, (1,1—0,2 g soda, 2 — 3 g sodium phosphate, 3 — 4 g common salt. For dark shades the amount of common salt is increased to 7 g per litre. Generally the goods are entered at about 122° F, then the temperature is slowly raised to 194° F, and the dyeing process finished at this temperature in i hours. The goods are then rinsed and either softened with a little muriatic or acetic acid, or, if it is necessary to top the colours, topped in a bath at 104 — 122° F, acidified with muriatic or acetic acid; they are then lustred. b) Basic Colours. The goods are mordanted (like cotton), with tannin and salts of antimony, rinsed and dyed in a weak acid bath with basic colours. For the production of two-colour effects the brands named under No. I are best suited. In order to make the silk as white as possible, the quantity of soap in the bath is increased, and the goods not dyed too hot (about 122° F). They are then well rinsed and topped with acid colours at about 104° F, some muriatic or acetic acid being added. For topping silk the dyestuffs enumerated under No. 6 a are used. c) Thiogene Colours. Of Thiogene Colours it is chiefly Black which is to be considered in half silk dyeing, because it is thereby possible to obtain black goods with white silk effects. The goods are dyed for about an hour at 86° F with 25°,'o Thiogene Black solution, with an addition of 30 g bran per litre colour solution. Unboiled wheat starch or wheat flour give similar results. The following pattern has been dyed as above with the addition of bran. — 129 — 1. Dyestuffs which dye Cotton and Silk alike. Aurophenine O, Janus Yellow R, G, Cresotine Yellow G, Janus Brown R, Dianil Brown 3 GO, Janus Red B. 2. Dyestuffs which dye Cotton deeper than Silk. Dianil Yellow 2R, 3G, 1 Hanil Azurine G, Dianil Pure Yellow HS, Dianil Brown G, B, BD, M, R, D, MH, Dianil Fast Red PH, Dianil Fast Brown B, Dianil Orange N, Dianil Darkblue 3R, Toluylene Orange R, Dianil Black CR, Deltapurpurine 5B, Dianil Green G, Brilliant Dianil Red R, Dianil Violet H, Dianil Red R, 4B, 10B, Patent Dianil Black FF cone. Dianil Blue 2R, 4R, 3. Dyestuffs which dye Silk deeper than Cotton. Dianil Yellow G, R. 4. Dyestuffs which dye Cotton almost exclusively. Dianil Direct Yellow S, Dianil BlueG.B.R, HG, H2G.H3 G, H6G Oxydianil Yellow O, Dianil Darkblue R, Dianil Orange G. Dianil Black ES. 5. Dyestuffs which dye Silk, leaving Cotton white. Acid Magenta extra, Flavazine S, Acid Maroon O, Azo Yellow cone, Acid Violet 3RS, Orange No. 2, Acid Green cone. Scarlet R, (5R, Patent Blue V, Victoria Rubine O, Naphtol Yellow S, Fast Red S. Flavazine T, 9 ii — 131 <; Dyestuffs suitable for topping Half Silk. a F( >r Silk : Acid Magenta extra, Acid Maroon ' >, i erise O, A. ul Violet, all brands, Methyl Blue for Silk MLB, „ for Cotton MLB. I hie, blue shade, I ipal Blue superior soluble. Blue for Silk T, T cone, greenish, 99, KR, Acid Green cone, Patentblue V. A. Violamine, all brands, Fast Blue, all brands, Black Blue ( i. Black-Black O, Fast Darkblue R, Nigrosine No. 1, 4, Chinoline Yellow O, cone, Naphthol Yellow S. Bast Yellow O, Last Yellow S new, Az" Yellow cone, New Yellow II, Flavazine T, Flavazine S, Rosazeine (\ B, extra, B extra, 4G, 4G extra, Orange G, No. J, Brilliant I (range . yellow shade. Scarlet G, R, OR, B extra, Scarlet 6R cryst., Brilliant Crocein, yellow shade, blue shade, R, B, BB. 3B, 5B, Fast Red O, S. Brilliant Crimson O, Amaranth O, Diamond Scarlet for Silk G, Scarlet for Silk O, G, Amidonaphthol Black 4B, 4B extra, 6B, S. b) For Cotton : Auramine cone, Phosphine new, Flavophosphine, all brands, Methylene Yellow H, Chrysoidine A cryst., C cryst., C extra cryst . Vesuvine cone., ;;R superfine, 4BGconc, extra yellow, a, large cryst., small cryst., < !ei isc ( i, Grenadine < », < animal R, Maroon < I, '.i ( ', Methyl Violet, all bran. Is. Violet cryst.. Primula R, B Brilliant Green cryst. extra. Malachite Green cryst. extra, Safranine cone, Methylene Violet RRA. RRX. BX, Methylene Blue BB extra, BB cone, BB, R, 6R, Methylene Green O, G, GG, 3G, extra yellow, extra yellow cone, Methylene Grey O, NFS Rosazeine O, B, extra, B extra, 4G, 4G extra. 131 Recipes for page 132. 0,5 °/ Scarlet 3R dyed in a sulphuric acid bath. 2. 4°/o Dianil Direct Yellow S topped in a sulphuric acid balh with 1 °/o Acid Green cone. 0,3 °/o Patentblue A dyed in a sulphuric acid bath. 3°/o Dianil Direct Yellow S, l°/o Dianil Blue H6G, topped in a sulphuric acid bath with 0,6 °/o Fast Acid Eosine G. 4°/o Dianil Direct Yellow S topped in a sulphuric acid bath with 0,3 °/ Acid Magenta O. 6. 0,5 °/o Patent Dianil Black FF cone. 4°/o Dianil Darkblue R topped in a sulphuric acid bath with 0,9 °/o Victoria Blue B, 0,1 °/o Acid Magenta extra, 0,03 °/o Orange II. 2,5 °/ Dianil Red 5B, 1,8 °/ Dianil Crimson B, 0,9 °/ Dianil Brown BD, topped in a sulphuric acid bath with 0,04 °/o Methyl Violet 5R extra. 2°/ Dianil Brown BD, 2°/o Dianil Brown 3 GO, l°/o Dianil Black CR, topped in a sulphuric acid bath with 1,3 °/o Fast Blue O. 10. 7% Patent Dianil Black FF cone, topped in a sulphuric acid bath with 3°/o Amidonaphthol Black 4B special — 132 — HALF SILK EFFECTS. 'V #. — 133 LACE, BRAID, RIBBON AND TWINE DYEING. Laces and fabrics of a Net character are dyed on the winch. The initial treatment of this class of goods by singeing, boiling or bleaching must depend on the effect to be produced. Blacks are obtained with Thiogene Black or with Dianil Black CR, topped with Aniline Black (compare vol. I page 201). After washing, these goods are usually starched on the winch, slightly hydroextracted and dried on the tentering machine. Half Silk Ribbons are also dyed on the winch which, in order to prevent the material from knotting, is fitted with dividing boards which keep the ribbons asunder. Cotton Braids and narrow Ribbons are dyed either in the cistern, like cotton yarns, or in a mechanical dyeing apparatus, according to the packing system. The choice of the requisite dyestuffs depends also in this case on the desired fastness. As a rule the direct colours suffice for these articles. Twine is dyed on special machines. The material of flax (linen) or hemp is continuously passed through a bath which has been prepared with basic dyestuffs, alum, or acetic acid, then through a drying apparatus. Finally the goods are sized and lustred on brushing machines. L>. rt. 1-iiu.L. HisnARY North Carolina State College Index for Volume II. Acid Cerise I 10 Acid Dyestuffs 79. Acid Green 130. Acid Magenta 130. Acid Maroon 130. Acid Violet 130. Aftertreatment for altering the handle of goods 57; — of cops and cheeses 61. Alizarine 74. Alizarine Blue 1, 2, 6, 9, 10, 13, 14, 17, 77. Alizarine Brown 2, 10, 13, 14, 17, 713, 77. Alizarine Claret 2, 9, 13, 14, 17, 76. Alizarine Colours 11, 14. Alizarine Dark Blue 2, 6, 13, 14. Alizarine Green 2, 9, 12, 13, 14, 17, 77. Alizarine Lilac 76. Alizarine Orange 1, 2, 6, 9, 11, 12, 13, 14, 17, 74. Alizarine Pink 75. Alizarine Red 1, 2, 9, 12, 13, 14, 17, 75. Alizarine Yellow 1, 2, 3, 9, 10, 13, It, 17, 74. Alpha-Naphthylamene Claret :;, 9, 87. Amaranth 130. Amidonaphthol Black 130. Aniline Black 1, 2, 7, 10, 12, 13, II, I''., 17, 18, 20. Aniline Oxidation Black 81. Auraminc :'., 6, 8, 11, 15, 16, 17, 18, 118, I 10. Aurophenine 13, K>, 17, 18, 19, 22, :.7, 115, 129. Azo Colours insoluble, 86. Azophor Black s -<. Azophor Blue 3, 17, B8. Azophor Orange 3, 7, 9, 11, 13, 14. 88. Azophor Pink 88. Azophor Red 2, 7, 9, 11, 13, 14, 17, 20, 86. Azo Phosphine 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 15, 16, 17. Azo Yellow cone. 130. Basic Colours 14. Black Black 130. Blue for silk 130. Braid Dyeing 134. Brilliant Crimson 130. Brilliant Croceine (i, 9, 130. Brilliant Dianil Red 9, 13, 19, 22, 115, 129. Brilliant Green cryst. extra 5, G, 8, 12, 118, 131. Brilliant Orange 6, 9, 130. Cardinal 130. Cerise 4, 8, 12, 130. Ceruleine 2, 6, !t, 13, 14, 17, 78. Chinoline 130. Chromoglaucine 78, 79. Chrysoidine 4, 8, 12, 16, 130. Coloured Discharges 91. Cone. Cotton Blue 8, 10, 11, 12. Cops and cheeses, aftertreat- ment of — , 61. Cotton, dyeing of, in its unspun state; loose — , 21; carded — , 26; — rovings, 27. Cotton Blue extra 8, 10. Cotton Colours, fast to bleach- ing 1 ; — fast to chlorine 2; — fast to washing 3; — — fast to water 5; — fast to perspiration 6; — fast to boiling in acids 6; — fast to acid B; — fast to ironing 12; — fast to steaming 13; — fast to milling 14; — fast to stoving 15; — fast to rubbing and calandering 16; — fast to light 17; — fast to vulcanizing 18; action of hydrosulphite on — , 19; — suitable for mechanical machine dyeing 57. Cotton Light Blue 10. Cotton Piece Dyeing 103; — in the cistern 105 ; — on the jigger 107; — on the padding machine 109; — on the continuous dyeing machine 111; padding or foularding 113. Cotton Yarn, dyeing of, hank dyeing 33; warps 51; cops and cheeses 54; weighting of—, 60; printing of—, 62. Cresotine Yellow '■'•, 5. 18, 14, 16, 17, 18, 19, 22, 115, 129. Cutch Brown 8, 12. Cyanosine 5. Dark Brown M, 9, 12. Delta Purpurine 9, 13, 19, 22, 57, 115, 129. Diamont Scarlet 130. Dianil Azurine 4, 5, 8, 10, 11 16, 17, 19, 22, 57, 129. 135 — Dianil Black 4, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 1?, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 20, 22, 36, 57, 115,129. Dianil Blue 5, 8, 10, 11, 13. 16, 18, 19, 22, 57, 115, 129. Dianil Brown 4, 5, 7, 8, 9, 11, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 1\ 19, 22, 57, 115, 129. Dianil Chrome Brown 3, 7, 8, 9, 14, 19, 57. Dianil Claret Red 5, 6, 8, 18, 19, 22, 57. Dianil Colours, all, 14, 16. Dianil Crimson 8, 17, 19, 22, 57. Dianil Dark Blue 5, 8, 11, 13, 16, 18, 20, 22, 57, 115, 129. Dianil Dark Green 5, 8, 16, 20, 22, 57, 115. Dianil Direct Yellow 2, 4, 8, 11, 13, 15, 17, 18, 19, 22, 57, 115, 129. Dianil Fast Brown 3, 5, 7, 9, 13, 14, 15, 16, 10, 22, 115, 129. Dianil Fast Red 3, 5, 8, 13, 15, 16. 17, 19, 57, 129. Dianil Fast Scarlet 8, 10, 16, 19, 22, 115. Dianil Green 5, 8, 13, 16, 20, 22, 57, 115, 129. Dianil Indigo 5, 8, 9, 10, 16, 17, 18, 19, 22, 57. Dianil Japonine 5, 8, 9, 11, 15, 17, 19, 22, 115. Dianil Jet Black 36. Dianil Orange 4, 5, 7, 8, 10, 13, 15, 16, 17, is, 19, 22, 57, 115, 129. Dianil Pink 5,9,13, 16,17, 19, 22, 57, 115 Dianil Pure Yellow 5, 13, 19, 57, 12!'. Dianil Red 6, 13, 18, 19, 22, 57, 115, 129. Dianil Scarlet 8, 9, 11, 13, 19, 22, 57. Dianil Violet 5,9, 1:!, 17, 19, 22, 57, 115, 129. Dianil Yellow 5, 8, 10, 11, 13, 15, 17, is, 19, 22, 57, 115, 12'.'. Dianisidine Blue 3, 13, 17. Diphenyl Black 1, 3, 7, 9, 11, 13, 14, 16, 17, 18, 20. Diphenyl Black Base I, 84. Discharge Blue, 91. Discharge Effects, 89 ; — upon Dianil Dyestuffs 90 ; — with Basic Colours 93. Discharge Green '.'1. Discharge Yellow, 4, 91. Eosine, 5, 6, 79. Eosine Scarlet 5. Ervthrosine Ethyl Blue 3, 7, B, 11, 13, 15, 16, 17. Fast Blue 130. Fast Blue Black 130. Fast Blue for Cotton 4, 8, 10, 11, 13, 16, 17. Fast Brown 130. Fast Dark Blue 130. Fast Red 130. Fast Yellow 130. Flavazine 130. Flavophosphine 3, 6, 8, 12, 15, 16, 17, is, lis, 130. Foularding 113. Galleine 2, 13, 14, 17. Grenadine 4, 8, 12. Grey for Silk 8. Half-Silk Dyeing 127. Hydrosulphite, action of, — on Cotton Colours 19; — discharges 90. Indamine Blue 4, 7, 8, 10, 11, 13, 15, 16, 17. Indigo 1, 2, 6, 9, 11, 13, 14, 16, 17, 20, 57. Indophene Blue 4, 7, 8, 10, 13, 15, 16, 17. Insoluble Azo Colours 86. Janus Black 4, 9, 13. janus Blue 4, 7,8, 10, 11, 13, 14, 16. Janus Brown 3, 7, 8, 10, 13, 14, 129. Janus Dark Blue 4, 7, 11, 16. Janus Green 4, 7, 9, 13, 15, 16. Janus Grey 4, 15. Janus Red 3, 8, 13, 129. janus Yellow 3, 4, 7, 8, 18, 14, Hi, 17, 129. Keton Blue 130. Lace Dyeing 134. Light Blue Superfine, 130. Linen Yarn Printing 96. Magenta 4, 8, 12, 18, 130. Malachite Green 5, 6, 8, 12, 131. Marine Blue 3, 8, 12. Maroon extra 4, 8, 12, 131. Melanogene Blue 9, 12, 17. Metanitraniline Orange 2, 3. Methyl Blue for Cotton 8, 10, 12," 130. Methyl Blue for Silk 130. Methyl Violet 3, 4, 8, 12, 15, 18, 131. Methylene Blue 3, 6, 8, 11, 12, 15, 16, 17, 131. Methylene Dark Blue 13. Methylene Green 4, 6, 8, 13, 15, 16. 17, 131. Methylene Grey 4, 8, 10, 11, 15, 16. 17, 131. Methylene Heliotrope 3, 6, 8, 12, 15, 16, 17, 18. Methylene Indigo 13. Methylene Violet 3, 6, 8, 12, 15, 16, 17, 131. Methylene Yellow 3, 6, 8, 11, 12, 15, 16, 18, 130. Mordant Colours 16. Mordants used in Yarn Print- ing 64. Naphthol Yellow 130. Naphtylamene Claret 2, 7, 11, 13, 14, 87. New Ethyl Blue 4, 7, 8, 11, 15, 16, 17. New Fast Blue 4, 11,13, 16, 17. New Magenta 4, 8, 12, 18, 131. New Yellow 130. Nigrosine 130. Nitroso Blue 3, 13, 16. 136 — lours produced . 31. ().\i■. 8, 1". 12. 16, 1- Rose Bengale 5, 6. Safranine 3, 6, 8, 12. !•"., 16, 17. 1-. US 181. Safranine scarlet 3, 4, 8, 12, 16. Scarlet 130; - for Silk 180. Scroop Handle, production Solid Green 2, 7, 9; - Bistre 13, l l. 16, 17. Steam Aniline Black B2. Steam Colours, all 71. Tartrazine 130. Thickenings used for Yarn Printing 63. Thiogene Black 9, 11, 12, is, 57. Thiogene Blue 9, 18, 57. Thiogene Brown 9, 11, 12, 18, 57. Thiogene Catechu 9, 18. Thiogene Colours, all 3, 6, 13, It. 16, 17, 18, 80. Thiogene Cyanine 2,9, 18, 57. Thiogene Dark Mine 1". 57. Thiogene Dark Red 9, 12. Thiogene Diamand Black 12, 57- Thiogene Golden Yellow 9, 12. .-.7. I hiog< ii' i in < d 9, ' Thiogene I leliotrope 9. Thiogene Khaki 9, 1 1". 12. 18, 57. Rubine 9, 12. ".7. Thiogene Violet 9. Thiogene Yellow 9. 12, 57. Thionine Mine :•;, t;, \ n, 12, 15, If,, 17. IIS Tinsalt Discharges 92. Toluylene Orange 4, 5, 7, 13, 15, 16, 17. 18, 19, 22, .',7, , 129. Turkey Red 20. Twine I ly< ing 134, Vesuvine 4, 8, 11, 12, 15, 130. Victoria Blue 3, 7, 8, 12, 1"., 18. Victoria Rubine 130. Violamine 130. Violet Crystals 3, B, 12, 131. Weighting of Cotton Yarn 60. Yarn Printing, preparation .oi the yarn for — 62; thicken- ings used for — 63; mord- ants used in — 64; machine for — 65; methods of — 69, 71; linen — 96. Yellow for Leather 8.