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 This book was presented by 
 
 V, J. Ashbaugh 
 Prominent N. C. Dairyman 
 
 SPECIAL COLLECTIONg 
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THIS BOOK MUST NOT BE TAKEN 
 FROM THE LIBRARY BUILDING. 
 
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Digitized by tine Internet Arciiive 
 
 in 2009 witii funding from 
 
 NCSU Libraries 
 
 littp://www.arcliive.org/details/dairyingexemplifOOtwam 
 
Dairying Exemplified. 
 
Dairying Exemplified, 
 
 OR 
 
 The BUSINESS of 
 
 CHEESE-MAKING: 
 
 Laid down from approved Rules, collefted 
 from the mod experienced Dairy -Wo- 
 men, of feveral Counties. 
 
 Cigefled under various Heads. 
 
 From a Series of Obfervations, 
 
 during Thirty Years Practice in the 
 
 CHEESE TRADE, 
 
 By J. TW A M L E Y. 
 
 The Second Edition, CorreBed & Improved. 
 
 WARWICK: 
 
 Printed for the Author, by J. Sharp, and Sold by 
 
 Messrs. Ri VIS gton's 5/. Pauls Church Yard, and 
 
 J.Taylor, No. 56 Holborn, London. 1787. 
 
 Price Two Shillings, 
 
Enter d at Stationer's Hall. 
 
P R E F AC E. 
 
 IF a Dedication, or Introduftion 
 to the following Work fhould 
 be thought neceffary, I moft 
 humbly, and juftly addrefs it to the 
 excellent Dairy-Women, of Great 
 Britain ; duly fenfible, that from 
 them I received the firft hints that 
 led me to the performance, and 
 without whofe affiftance and en- 
 couragement, joined with my own 
 knowledge and experience, I fhould 
 never have ofiFer'd it to the Public. 
 The real defign of this Work, is 
 to affift thofe who are not fully ac^ 
 quainted with the moft proper me- 
 thods, neceffary to be ufed in the 
 management of a Dairy ; I have 
 made it my endeavour to render 
 every part as plain and ihtelligent 
 as poffiblc^ and am in hopes upon a 
 B3 due 
 
yi 
 
 due Obfervation of the rules laid 
 down many will find their account 
 in it. It is my fincere wifh, that it 
 may be a means of improving the 
 quality, as well as enlarging the 
 quantity of Cheese, through the 
 Kingdom ; and become extenfively 
 ufeful to the community in general. 
 As the Publication of this Work 
 has met with a very ready fale,&been 
 much approved of in general, and 
 many who have carefully apply'd the 
 rules for Dairying therein laid down, 
 have deriv'd great advantage from 
 it, which the x\utlior has by many, 
 been inform'd of ; encourages him 
 to print a fecond Edition, and hav- 
 ing omitted the other treatifes upon 
 Orchards and Vegetation, in order to 
 bring the price more moderate, 
 hopes that, will caufe it to be more 
 read by Dairy-Women, who if they 
 pay a due attention to it, cannot 
 help receiving benefit from the ad- 
 vice it contains. 
 
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 Dairying Exemplified, &c. 
 
 IT has been the wonder of many People, 
 who are interefted in the Article of 
 Cheefe, either as Makers or Dealers; 
 that no Treatife or Book of rules, or method 
 of making Cheefe, hath ever been attempt- 
 ed ; or the bufniefs of it examined, fo as to 
 direft thofe who are concerned as Dairy- 
 women, or have the chief management in 
 Dairys, to become proficients therein. 
 
 The great number of inferior Dairys 
 there are, in comparifon to the few, 
 that are excellent in their kind, or even 
 what are called good Dairys ; every per- 
 fon who is much concerned in the Cheefe 
 Trade, is well convinced of; and 'tis eyir 
 dent to a nice obferver of the different, yea, 
 very different qualities of Cheefe produc'd 
 in different Dairys, or even in the fame 
 Dairys, when either the Dairy-maid is 
 B 4 chang- 
 
(«) 
 
 changed, or the ufual method of Cheefe- 
 making, by the Miftrefs or manager of each 
 Dairy, is not ftriQly adhered to. A Reme- 
 dy for this great deficiency is looked upon 
 as an affair of great moment, efpecially by 
 thofe, whofe lot it is to be fixed in the Cheefe 
 Trade in a confiderable Dairy Country, where 
 large quantities of Cheefe, are annually 
 bought ; and where, was Cheefe-making in 
 equal repute, or the real quality of Cheefe, 
 equal in goodnefs to fome neighbouring 
 Counties, a much larger quantity would 
 certainly be made, and what would be a 
 great encouragement both to the makers an4 
 bu} ers of it, a better price would be pro- 
 cured for the fame Article, and a much rea- 
 dier Sale, than when of an inferior quality. 
 Befides which , it is very clear that many 
 People do not, for want of a proper method, 
 make near fo much Cheefe, frorn the fame 
 quantity of Milk, as others do ; or as even 
 themfelves might do, if a mpr^ proper me- 
 thod was purfued. Thefe cpnfi derations, 
 having always been clearly apparent, have 
 from time to time, and as oft as an oppor- 
 tunity 
 
(9) 
 
 tunity of attaining any knowledge, in thebuli- 
 nefs of making good Cheefe hath offered ; 
 led the Author of the following Treatife, to 
 coUeft, weigh, and inveftigate every par- 
 ticular circumflance leading to improve the 
 faid art, or bufmefs ; and hath enabled him 
 from time to time, to aflift, and help many, 
 by his advice and dire6lions, to reftify and 
 amend many faults, and deficiences, in the 
 method, they followed ; and many have by 
 fuch direftions, greatly improved their Dai- 
 rys. And from conftant experience and 
 feeing the improvements, and the effefts 
 produced from every different method prac- 
 tifed or explained, by fuch as he found moft 
 experienced, or beft informed, for the 
 fpace of Thirty Years and upwards, he ne- 
 ver fail'd to avail himfelf ; this hath conflant- 
 ly led him to fcrutinize into the real caufe, of 
 every impediment, or fault, in the method 
 of making Cheefe, from the firfl flep, or 
 Milking the Cows, to the compleating or 
 removing the Cheefe for Sale. And to 
 point out a remedy to each complaint upon 
 rational principles, as far as they appear to 
 him, and ai^ confirmed by the opinion of 
 
 others 
 
( lo) 
 others, who have been in the way of making 
 obfervations of the fame nature, and who 
 give every encouragement to the Author to 
 make fuch improvements PubHc, for the 
 general good. 1 am well acquainted, how 
 unthankful an office it is, to attempt to in- 
 flru6l or inform Dairy-women, how to im- 
 prove their method, or point out rules, which 
 are different from their own, or what hath 
 always been pra^lifed by their Mothers, to 
 whom they are often very partial, as having 
 been efleemed the beft Dairy-women of their 
 time, and even when they have impercept- 
 ably alter'd their method, bylhortening the 
 time in gathering the Cheefe, which is a term 
 generally given for colle6Hng the Curd at 
 the bottom of the Tub or Pan, after the run- 
 net or rendlefs has done its duty, or by put- 
 ting a larger quantity of runnet into the Milk 
 to haflen the coming of the Cheefe, which 
 alteration, though often not obferved by the 
 Dairy-maid, or Millrefs, is of very material 
 importance, and u what I fhall endeavour to 
 explain, in as concife a manner as poffible. 
 1 doubt not, the fame refletlion will occur to 
 
 the 
 
( 11 ) 
 
 the minds of fome few on reading my Book; 
 as hath often done upon occafion, when I I 
 have m a Dairy, met with any particular f 
 impediment in their Gheefe, which the Dairy- | 
 woman would fairly acknowledge (he could j 
 not account for, and hath tried every means j 
 Ihe could think of to reftify without fuccefs ; j 
 faying, what does he know of Dairying, | 
 or how fhould a Man know any thing of | 
 Gheefe making ? 
 
 But let thefe remember, that I have had 
 frequent opportunities, of confulting the beft 
 of Dairy-women, in many Counties, who I 
 knew from experience did know how to 
 make good Cheefe, and in order to have it 
 in my power to inform fuch as did not 
 know how, I have taken great pains, to 
 inform myfelf, as many now living, in both 
 fituations can teftify. 
 
 The principal faults that caufe thefe dif- 
 ficulties to Dairy-women are, Hove Cheefe, 
 Spongey, full of Eyes, Whey Springs, Joint- 
 ed or Shook Cheefe, Split Cheefe, Loofe 
 Cheefe, or Cheefe made of unfettled Curd, 
 
 Rank 
 
( 12) 
 
 Rank or flrong Cheefe, Flying out or Bulg- 
 ing at the Edges, Dry-cracks or Hufky Coat- 
 ed Cheefe, Bliflering in the Coat, Blue Par- 
 ed, or Decayed Cheefe, Sweet or Funkey 
 Cheefe, Curdled or four Milk Cheefe, and 
 fometimes ill Smelling Cheefe, from tainted 
 Mawfkins, from diftemper'd Cattle, or fome 
 other caufe, which by a drift obferver may 
 be accounted for. Before a certain cure 
 can be found out or applied, you muft be 
 acquainted with the nature, and caufe of the 
 complaint, or if by any accident, you hit 
 upon a remedy, it may perhaps be a partial 
 one, or fuch as will not anfwer at all times, 
 or in all Dairys, by reafon the complaint is 
 from a certain fixt caufe, and which caufe 
 will at all times and in all places produce that 
 cffeft ; when perhaps, the remedy apply 'd 
 may only be proper in fome particular 
 Dairys, owing to Herbage, very rich Failure 
 or very Poor, to Clover ground, or ground 
 given to Noxious Weeds, Plants, or Trees, 
 which the Cows eat of ; each of which if 
 not known or confidered will produce a 
 different effeft, fome of which effeds may 
 
 be 
 
( 13 ) 
 
 be fimilar in appearance to complaints in 
 other Dairy s produced from different caufes, 
 the knowledge of which will be of great ufe, 
 to every Dairy-woman, or maker ofCheefe 
 to know, as the operation of the work, or 
 management and care of the Cheefe when 
 made, mull neceffarily fall to their lot. 
 
 What relates to Paflurage; or the quali- 
 ty of Land for Grafs, the produce of the 
 Land regarding Plants, Weeds, or Graft 
 of different kinds, falls more immediately 
 under the eye or care of the Mafter, c>r 
 Farmer of the Land ; and from obfervinJg 
 from time to time, the ftate of the Dair)% 
 the Tafte of the Cheefe, fo far as it may b^ 
 affefted by any particular Herb, Weed, of 
 Grafs ; the fituation of the Cheefe in tht* 
 Dairy Chamber, how it is affefted in dif- 
 ferent Seafons by Heat, Cold, Damp or Dry 
 Weather, to know what are the caufes of 
 many general faults, or complaints in Cheefe, 
 fuch as Heaving, Splitting, Jointing, Whey 
 Spring, 111 Formed, or Sweet Cheefe, which 
 often, when any of thefe happen in a Dairy, 
 
 are 
 
( H ) 
 are produced by one general caufe, and fre- 
 quently go through the principal part of it, 
 proceeding from the fame negleft, or mif- 
 management. Thefe difhculties or defici- 
 encies, it is proper a Mafter (hould be ac- 
 quainted with, as it often, I may fay, too 
 often happens, the Miltrefs leaves the care 
 of the Dairy to Servants, efpecially the put- 
 irig together the Milk, preparing the Run- 
 net and putting it into the Milk, the (land- 
 ihcr of the Milk till it becomes Curd, and 
 breaking or gathering it after it is come ; 
 which is generally done by fome common 
 rujle or method they have been ufed to, the 
 niethod ufed by a former Miftrefs perhaps, 
 viho might be efteem'd a good Dairy -woman, 
 a'^d very likely undertook the management 
 of the Dairy herfelf ; or at leaft fo far aS the 
 ^^tffential part of the work extended ; paying 
 a particular regard to the time of the o- 
 peration of the Runnet, in bringing the 
 Cheefe, or of gathering the Curd, fixing, 
 or fetting it aher it is come ; each of which 
 require a minute exaftncfs, and the princi- 
 pal error, or misfortune in Cheefe making, 
 
 is 
 
( is ) 
 is owing to thefe operations being too hafti- 
 ly performed, not giving time enough for 
 the different effefts to take place ; for if due 
 regard is paid to making good Curd, you 
 will very eafilv make good Cheefe ; few peo- 
 ple in any bufmefs make good Goods of bad 
 Materials, tho' many of the moft ignorant, 
 when provided with good Materials, pre- 
 pared for that purpofe, will finifh them in 
 a Workman-like and Mafferly manner ; fo 
 will many a DairV-maid, make very hand- 
 fome Cheefe and take care of it, till it comes 
 to be very good, and fo as to give credit to 
 the feller, as well as the vender of it, that 
 has no confiftent idea how the Runnet ope- 
 rates, or perhaps of the different ftates of the 
 Curd, in its various ftages, or even when it 
 is in a proper ftate to begin the part of the 
 work which ufually falls to her fliare, of 
 Breaking, Vatting, and preparing it for put- 
 ing in the Prefs, which former part fhould 
 be the care of the Miftrefs, or at leaft of 
 fome Perfon who does underffand it, to pre- 
 pare the Curd for them. The bufinefs of a 
 Dairy, is of a confiderable importance, and 
 
 what 
 
( i6 ) 
 is in fome Places, half, or nearly the whole 
 income, or produce of a Farm. The 
 difference is fo great between a very good 
 Dairy- woman, an inferior one, and a very 
 bad one, as would furprife, even a judicious 
 obferver, and the following obfervations, 
 which flow from what have happened in my 
 own walks, will be apt to ftrike conviftion on 
 the minds of many, who have never applied 
 their thoughts to the Theory of Dairying. 
 The general way that the art of Dairying 
 has been carried on for Ages, has been pro- 
 greflive, or traditional, being taught by Mo- 
 ther to Daughter, from common and con- 
 tinual experience ; naturally adopting from 
 time to time, the methods that appear'd befl 
 from fuch as have happened to come within 
 their own knowledge ; without ever calling 
 in the aflillance of either Philofophy, by 
 which they might learn the different quali- 
 ties, and effeft of materials they ufe, or know- 
 ledge, how to apply them in a Phyfical, or 
 Pra6lical manner. And although the Au- 
 thor of this Treatife, is very confcious of the 
 deficiency of his own knowledge ; yet has 
 
 great 
 
( 17 ) 
 great hopes that from the defire of making 
 himfelf ufeful to community, with the affift- 
 ance ofreafonand common fenfe, he fhalt 
 be able to render [01112 afhilance, to thofehe 
 wifhes to ferve. A kind providence hath 
 provided for all our wants ; Nature, as Na- 
 ture, is compleat in all its parts ; we, often 
 in trying to improve it, diftort, or throw it 
 into confufion ; our Ideas being inadequate 
 to the attempt. Where nature points out, or 
 leaves any open for improvement, in the ufe 
 of any of the common neceffarys of Life, it 
 is the duty of individuals to take the hint, 
 and endeavour to explain them for Public 
 good. The prefent Syftem of Dairying, 
 being in a very imperfeft (late, I am in hopes, 
 my endeavours to render fervice and im- 
 provement, will not be found unneceffary. 
 
 A Cow, may I think judly be fliled, the 
 mod ufeful of all Animals, in regard to 
 Man; Milk is a fupport to our Infancy and 
 greatly contributes both to our comfort and 
 fupport through Life, not only fupplying 
 our prefent wants, by that falubrious ali- 
 ment, but our future wants, not only at 
 C home 
 
( i8 ) 
 home, but abroad ; by the Cheefe and But- 
 ter produced from it, it fupphes us, even 
 with many luxuries in our tafte, is a great 
 fupportto weakly conflitutions by its Veal, as 
 well as a great fupport in the Article of Pro- 
 vifions, afforded when alive ; when Dead, 
 is to us the grand (lamina of our Food, Beef, 
 being the moft nourifliing and agreeable re- 
 paft ; it not only fupports us at home, but 
 fupplies our Fleets, our Armies, our Garri- 
 fons and Iflands all over the World ; its 
 Leather, fo ufeful for Shoes, for Imple- 
 ments of Hufbandry, for Travelling, and for 
 innumerable Conveniences ; its Hair for our 
 Buildings and other purpofes ; its Tallow 
 for our Light at Home and Abroad ; its 
 Horns and Hoofs, and even its very Bones 
 for our Implements, and various Materials 
 of Trade. Were all its excellencies enume- 
 rated; they would be very extenfive. 
 
 Milk, muft be allowed one of its moft ufe- 
 ful productions ; it is given for our ufe in a 
 pure, wholefome, and nutritive ftate ; cap- 
 able of improvements, or alterations, of its 
 nature, according to our different wants. 
 
 In 
 
(19) ■ 
 In the Article of Cheefe, and Butter,- a great! 
 deal depends on the Art, Judgment, Care 
 and Diligence of the Performer, and the 
 good or bad qualities of each, chiefly de^ 
 pend on the fkill and induftry of the Dairy- 
 woman. On a judicious obfervation you 
 will find, that Milk is generally found even 
 at different Seafons, to be of a regular and e- 
 qual (lamina, or quality, and in the fame 
 manner affefted by different fluxings ; by 
 Salts, Liquids, Spirits, &c. at all times ; the 
 bufmefs of Cheefe making, is a regular and 
 conflant proceeding, praftifed perpetually, 
 every Day, time immemorial; and it feems 
 ftrange, that when the ingredients you em- 
 ploy are fo few, and their nature alfo fo ex- 
 ceeding regular, and certain, that there can 
 be much difficulty, in producing the Article 
 of Cheefe pure, and compleat ; but daily ex- 
 perience convinces us, that there is an amaz- 
 ing difference in the goodnefs of Cheefe, in- 
 forauch that you can fcarce find two Dairys 
 that are exaftly, or even very much alike ; it 
 does not occur to the knowledge of every one 
 what that difference is, but to a Perfon who 
 deals largely in it, and makes obfervations 
 
 C 3 upon 
 
(20) 
 
 upon it, muft plainly appear ; and though 
 To few have ever attempted to fcrutinize 
 the nature of Cheefe, or particularly of 
 Cheefe making, in a manner that yields 
 convi8ion to its improvements ; yet there 
 is no reafon, why that ufeful branch of 
 knowledge cannot, or m^iy not, be clearly 
 explained. 
 
 The bufmefs has been in the hands of the 
 Women hitherto, except in CheJJiire, Wilts, 
 fome part of GlouceJlerJIiire, &c, where a 
 large quantity of Cheefe is made, a Man is 
 employ 'd as an affiftant, the weight of a 
 large ChcJJiire Cheefe, being too great to 
 be wrought by a Woman, and turning, 
 rubbing, wafhing, and cleaning, is more 
 than one Man can eafily perform ; 'tis com- 
 mon in large Dairys, to meet with Cheefes, 
 Eighty, one Hundred, one Hundred and 
 Twenty, or even one Hundred and Forty 
 pounds a Cheefe, which requires confider- 
 able flrength to manage. In fome part of 
 North-WiltJIiire, I am informed there are 
 Dairys that make Twenty-five Tons in a 
 Year ; and fome few more than that. A 
 
 Gentle- 
 
C21 ) 
 
 Gentleman told me, that being lately at 
 Bath, he was informed of a Perfon within 
 iefs then Twenty Miles, who Milk"d 200 
 Cows : Which led his curiofity to take a ride 
 to fee it, being a confiderable Fattor, who 
 had frequent opportunity of buying Dairy s 
 of Four, Five, or Six Tons each ; but had 
 never met with any Dany of that extent. 
 On hearing the recital of it, led me to the 
 fame thought as would naturally ftrike 
 him, viz. what fort of a Houfe or Premifes 
 the Perfon mufl: have to cure, fpread or 
 difpofe of fuch a quantity of Cheefe, to 
 get it ready for Sale ? When he came to 
 the Place, he found the report was true, 
 but then he milked thefe 200 Cows at 
 three different Houfes, in number proporti- 
 onable to the convenience or fituation of 
 the Place. W^e often hear talk of CheJIiirc 
 Dairysof 100 Cows each, which the large- 
 nefs of the Cheefe in a great meafure ac- 
 counts for. But what are called large Dairys 
 in IVarwidJIiire, Leiceflerjliire, Stoffordjlnre, 
 or Derby fliire, is from 20 to 40 Co-ws each; 
 in thefe parts, from general obfervaticns I 
 have made, each Dairy may produce an- 
 C 3 nually 
 
( 22 ) 
 
 nually on an average three Hundred Weight 
 of Cheefe from each Cow, taking the Dairys 
 in general. I am inclined to think more 
 Dairys produce lefs than that quantity, than 
 there are that produce more ; but this is ob- 
 fervable, much the greater number of Dairys, 
 are on Tillable, or Arable Farms, where 
 new Grafs is introduced, which is always 
 allowed to make lefs Cheefe than good old 
 Turf; and the proportion of up-land Farms, 
 is much greater than of low-land. I have 
 weighed many times Four Hundred from a 
 Cow, and fome few Dairys which have pro- 
 duced Five Hundred from each Cow ; but 
 then in fcrutinizing into the affair, I find it 
 has been attended with particular circum- 
 flances, fuch as being fituate, in an excel- 
 lent Grafs Country, where Meadows of dry 
 Old Turf have been the Pafture, where clear 
 Oreams of running Water have gone through 
 the Meadows, affording always good Beve- 
 rage for the Cows, as well as a cool retreat 
 for them in Hot Weather ; by which means 
 their Milk v/as kept in a temperate flate, 
 while Covv's on up-lands, perhaps fcorched 
 ^yith heat, and not having the nourifliing 
 
 Ihearq 
 
(23 ) 
 
 flream to go to, or (hade to prcte6l them 
 from the Sun, caufe their gadding, or run- 
 ning about to fuch a degree, as prevented 
 the increafe of their Milk, in any proportion 
 to what the running ftream produced : and 
 throw'd the Cows into fuch a heat and dif- 
 order, that their Milk would not yield near 
 the quantity of Curd, and caufed many dif- 
 ficulties in making the Cheefe, which the 
 cooler Dairys were notexpofed to, (efpecial- 
 ly, when under the hand of an unfkilful 
 Dairy-woman, ) likewife, in thefe prolific • 
 Dairys, the owner made a point of never 
 keeping a Cow that was too old Milcht, or 
 Milk'd too long from the time of Calvmg, 
 or when any Cow went off her Milk either 
 by any accident, or otherwife ; then the 
 Dairy-man always replaced her with a 
 new Milcht one, either drying the old 
 Milcht one for feeding, or difpofing of her. 
 That fo the Dairy by that means was kept 
 in full vigour through the Grafs Seafon. The 
 number of thefe Dairys is fo very few" and 
 rare, they can only at moft fliow the World 
 what may be done. I have been told by a 
 WiltJJiire Fador, that the Land in their 
 C 4 ' principal 
 
(24) 
 
 principal Dairy Country, is fo Rich and 
 Good that it is not very uncommon there 
 for prime Dairys to yield five Hundred of 
 Cheefe from a Cow ; but then there is alfo 
 every Advantage in their Favour ; fuch as 
 ( I believe no body who judgeth from the 
 goodnefs of their Cheefe, but muft allow) 
 the befl of Dairy-women, who have been re- 
 gularly bred to it from their Childhood, it 
 generally being almofl the fole employ of the 
 Farm, and thofe Dairy-women led on by the 
 greateft and mod powerful emulation, of fel- 
 Imo- for the his^hefl Price. Their Cheef;? be- 
 ing generally fold, retail, at a penny, and 
 often two-pence per Pound, more than good 
 Cheefe in common. Their Cheefe, that is 
 rnade in the prime of the Seafon, generally 
 known in the country by the name oiAiaj-l- 
 lorough Cheefe, being much brought to 
 Fairs by Marlborough Faftors, or People re- 
 fiding not far from thence. Or in London, 
 by the mmeo^ North-Wilt/Jiire Cheefe, which 
 always bears the greateft Price of any 
 Dairys, except thofe of Glouccjierjliire ; 
 which, even the fined of Barclay Hundred, 
 do fcarce come up to : And I believe by 
 
 many 
 
(25) 
 
 many judicious People, fome of the Wilt-' 
 J/iire Dairys are even allowed to excel. 
 Likewife, in many very principal Dairys, 
 they have this great Advantage; where Gen- 
 tlemen in fome places, occupying a large 
 traft of Ground, or Lordfliip, either them^ 
 felves. Stewards, Bavliff, or fome other Per- 
 fon for them. Stock the whole or chief Part 
 with Milking Cows, which they are very 
 particular to get to come in, or calve, by 
 the Time Grafs is in Vigour. Then thefe 
 Dairy People agree with them for the Milk 
 of fuch a number of Cows, as they can man- 
 age at a given Price per Week. The Gen- 
 tleman, Bailiff, &c. engaging, that if any 
 Cow fails in her Milk before a given Time, 
 that he will take her away and replace her 
 with a new Milcht one, by which means 
 their Dairys are always in full Power all 
 Summer ; and then they engage for the 
 Winter Dairy, at a Price proportioned to 
 the ftate of the Cows, either new, or old . 
 Milcht, by which means they are certainly 
 enabled to make a larger quantity of Cheefe 
 than any common Dairy, or Land of inferior 
 kind without thefe Advantages. And in ma- 
 ny 
 
(26) 
 
 ny Dairys they make Cheefe all the Year, 
 as the quantity of Winter Cheefe, and 
 Fodder Cheefe, fent to London Markets 
 clearly fl^ews. — Much depends on the fitua- 
 tion of Dairy-ground, being nearer, or far- 
 ther from the Houfe, where the Cheefe is 
 made ; as Cows being driven any confider-. 
 able diflance to be Milked, caufeth the Milk 
 to Heat in their Udders in Siunmer-time ; 
 Milking them in the Field and carrying the 
 Milk on Horfe-back in Churns, or Barrels 
 to much Diflance, I take to be dill worfe, as 
 that perpetually diflurbs the Milk, inclining 
 it to the nature of Churning Cream for But- 
 ter, and the operation performed upon it, is 
 quite of a different nature, as it is for a dif- 
 ferent purpofe or defign, and if Milk is put 
 in a violent Motion by carrying, it makes 
 it in fome degree partake of the nature of 
 Churning, infomuch, that you often obferve 
 round the Bung, Plug, or Stopple of the 
 Churn, a Froth or Scum, work out by force 
 of Air, or Motion in carrying, that very 
 nearly partakes of the nature of Butter, 
 w^hich plainly fliews that the Body of Milk, 
 cannot be in a proper State to make Cheefe 
 
 with 
 
( 27 ) 
 
 with, as Butter is produced by violent Mo- 
 tion, and the making of Cheefe from a ftate 
 of Reft, being dire6ily oppofite. I take it 
 that oftentimes in very Hot Weather, the 
 Milk in a Cow's Udder, much agitated by 
 driving, or running about, is in a ftate not 
 very far different from that carried in a 
 Churn, which frequently makes the great 
 difficulty in what is called bringing the Cheefe 
 or fixing the Curd in the Tub, or Pan ; I 
 have often heard Dairy-women fay that tis 
 fom'etimes very difficult to make it come at 
 all, and mftead of one Hour, ( the Time ve- 
 ry commonly given by Dairy-women, in 
 bringing the Cheefe, ) that it will frequent- 
 ly not come in Three, Four, or Five Hours; 
 and then in fuch an imperfe6l ftate, as to be 
 fcarce capable of being confined either in 
 the Cheefe-\^at or Prefs, and when releafed 
 from the Prefs, will heave, or puff" up, by 
 Splitting or Jointing, according as the nature 
 or ftate of the Curd happens to be. When- 
 ever People fimd their Cows in this fituation 
 which in Hot Summer Evenings muft often 
 happen, efpecially, where Water is fcarce, 
 pr in Grounds where there is very little 
 
 Shade 
 
(28) 
 
 Shade ; then it is, that making ufe of a little 
 cold Spring Water before earning, or rend- 
 iing, is ufeful; as that will make the Runnet 
 take effe6l& the Milk co-agulate much fooner. 
 It often happens, in fome Dairys, that the 
 Work is quite at a fland, the Dairy-woman 
 not knowing how to haflen the co-agulum, 
 or coming of the Cheefe, thinks of putting 
 more Runnet in, to forward it ; but the na- 
 ture of Runnet being fuch, as will difolve 
 the Curd, in part co-agulated, if more is put 
 in ; diflurbs the whole, and prevents its be- 
 coming Curd at all, or, in a very imperfeft 
 manner, remaining in the Whey, in an un- 
 digefted flate that will neither turn to Curd 
 or Cream, and a principal part of the richefl 
 of the Milk is then cad away with the Whey. 
 Cold Water, with a little Salt, ( as hereafter 
 recommended ) will in a great meafure pre- 
 vent this difficulty. One great Point, or 
 Thing to be obferved, in hrll. fetting off, or 
 rendling the Milk, is carefully to obferve 
 the flate of the Milk, as to Heat or Cold ; 
 the grand medium, or flate it fliould be in 
 when you put the Runnet into it, is what 
 may be properly underflood, Milk-warm ; 
 
 if 
 
(29) 
 if you find it to be warmer than that, it is 
 recommended, to put fome frelh Spring 
 Water into it, in fuch quantity, as will re- 
 duce it to the Milk-warm ftate ; a Ouart, 
 Two, Three, Four or more according to 
 the quantity of Milk to be fo cooled ; many 
 People may think Water will hurt the Milk 
 or impoveridi the Cheefe; experience (hews 
 it will not, but is a means of the Runnet 
 more immediately flriking or operating with 
 the Milk. I would recommend the ufe of a 
 Thermometer, to fhew the decree of Heat 
 Milk bears. I doubt not one may be con- 
 ftrufted on a very eafy Plan, that will cofl 
 a very little Money, and it ^\^ill be very well 
 worth while to be at a fmall Charge, to regu- 
 late a fault, of putting Milk together too 
 Hot, which is of more ill confequence than 
 People are aware of. The fame ufe holds 
 good in putting Milk together for Butter ; it 
 is obferved, that Milk being fet up too Hot, 
 will not throw up Cream near fo well, as 
 when in a temperate Rate, and caufes it foon- 
 er to turn four.* 
 
 * By the Term IVIilk-warm, is not here to be underflood, 
 the Wannth that it has on coming from the Cow, as that 
 varies according to the Heat of the Body of the Gow, at 
 the Time of Milking, buta Warmth, a few degrees remov- 
 ed from Coolnefs ; a degree of V\^armth, in general well 
 underllood. 
 
(30) 
 
 As foon as the Milk is reduced to a pro- 
 per warmth, and before you put the Run- 
 net to it, it is an exceeding good way to put 
 a handful or two of Salt into the Milk, or 
 three or four handfuls if your quantity is 
 large ( I recommend about two handfuls to 
 ten or twelve Cow's Milk ; ) this will alfo 
 caufe the Runnet to Work quick, and giv- 
 ing a Saltnefs to the whole, will be a means of 
 preventing Sweet, or Funkey Cheefe, as it 
 will make the Cheefe all Salt alike, be a 
 means to prevent Slip Curd, or Slippery 
 Curd, make the Curd fink in the Tub more 
 readily, and equally.'^* If your Milk is too 
 Cold, let fome Milk be warmed and put 
 into it, to bring it to the flate of Milk- 
 Warm, obferving not to warm a fmall quan- 
 tity to make it boil, as boiling alters the na- 
 ture of Milk in fome degree ; fcalding Heat 
 is thought to fet the Curd, making it Tough, 
 that it is judged beft, to warm a tolerable 
 good quantity of Milk pretty warm, that it 
 may give warmth to the whole in a fufficient 
 
 dc- 
 
 * Your Cheefe will afterwards want a lefs quantity 
 of Salt, than if none had been put in the Milk : enough to 
 lettle it, and make it firm in the Prefs, will be fufiicient. 
 
(31) 
 degree. Some-times you will find in Cold 
 Weather, your Milk in the tim^e of earning, 
 get Chill; I have known in fuch a cafe, a Per- 
 fon take a Tea Kettle of Hot Water and put 
 into it, with fuccefs ; let it be when the Curd 
 is nearly, or pretty well come, as then the 
 Hot Water will give aToughnefs to the Curd, 
 to relieve it from the flippery nature it had 
 acquired by being Chill, and that Chilnefs 
 continuing to encreafe, it is with difficulty 
 you can bring your Cheefe into a regular or 
 fixed ftate. It is a very common way with 
 many Dairy-women- to allow the Milk to 
 ftand an Hour, in earning, or after the Run- 
 net is put in, before it is gather'd, or funk ; 
 many I fear content themfelves with thinking' 
 it fufficiently come in lefs time, But here 
 lies the greateft mifchief in Cheefe-making ; 
 the Milk is very often difturbed before its 
 proper time, and fometimes when the w^hole 
 is in afiat&of Slip Curd, or Slippery Curd, 
 which is a flate all Curd is in, before it be- 
 comes folid' Curd, or Curd, fit to make 
 Cheefe with. You are always to obferve 
 that the flate in which it is when you firft 
 fiir or diHurb it, in that ftate the Curd v/ill 
 
 re* 
 
(32) 
 
 remain; it never improves as Curd, or be- 
 comes better Curd after it is difturbed or re^ 
 moved from its ilate of" refl. 
 
 You will generally obferve, that when you 
 fink the Curd in the Tub, even when it 
 is in a tolerable good ftate, as many ima- 
 gine, there will bits of Slip Curd fwim about 
 in the Whey and not fmk with the refl, 
 till the Whey is laden from it : That flip 
 Curd will not adhere to, or join with the 
 folid Curd, and though ever fo wtII broke 
 or feparated, yet in whatever (late it is, when 
 the Cheefe is made, it all diflolves, or melts ; 
 if a bit as big as a Nut happens together, 
 it diffolves into a Whey Spring, runs out, 
 and leaves a hole in the Cheefe, which al- 
 ways decays in that place; if a bit as big 
 as a Pin's-head happens, it diffolves, and 
 leaves an Eye in its place, and that is the 
 caufe of Eyes in Cheefe ; if you cut the 
 Cheefe when young, you will find, that 
 there is a Moifture, or Wet, in every Place 
 where the Eye is after it is dried up, which 
 
 W^et or Moiflure is called Tears. * 
 
 When 
 
 * This term, Tears, plainly indicates, that it has been 
 ufually undei Hood in tliis light, being the Tears of the Eye. 
 
(33) 
 When a large quantity of flip Curd is in 
 a Cheefe, tis a long Time before it becomes 
 hard, appearing always loofe within ; which, 
 when the Cheefe is dry, on cutting, it ap- 
 pears like a Honey-comb. 
 
 The thing that more Dairy-women err 
 in, than any other, is gathering or fmking 
 the Cheefe too foon. The rendling of 
 Cheefe, caufeth a very great Fermentation ; 
 there mufl be time given for the fixt Air in 
 Cheefe, or Curd, fet to work by the Run- 
 net, to diflipate, expand, or fly off". Run- 
 net is a thing fo powerful in its effe6l, 
 as to have no fubftitute yet found that can 
 be ufed in its place ; all Fermentations re- 
 move or feparate the fixed Air, from the 
 different Bodies they are connefted. with. 
 
 The effeft of Runnet on Milk is very 
 great, and in order to thoroughly fix the 
 Curd, it mult have fufficient Time to work, 
 concrete, or congeal the Curd into a folid 
 Mafs by extirpating the Air from it ; if you 
 remove or difturb the Milk before its full 
 Time, yet the Runnet having begun its 
 
 D operation 
 
(34) 
 Operation, though you do not give it Time 
 to work, by reafon of hurrying it forwards^ 
 yet when it is again at reft, fuch Air as 
 hath not been feparated, by breaking, fqueez- 
 ing or prefting, will extend itfelf, and the 
 Air will find a vent, or expand itfelf into 
 a greater compafs than it was before con- 
 fined in ; and whether it is in the Prefs, or 
 after it conies out of the Prefs, will find a 
 way to difchar^e itfelf ; many times to that 
 degree, when in the Prefs, as to even burfl 
 the Cheefe-cloth it is wrapt in, if it is fo con- 
 fined that it cannot efcape by it. • If it does 
 not get difcharged otherways, then, as foon 
 as the Prefs is let up, it will fhatter the 
 Cheefe within to a furprizing degree, and 
 immediately caufe the Cheefe to heave, or 
 puff up, even in that ftate, which fo feparates 
 the Curd in the Cheefe, as it feldom fettles 
 again, unlefs taken quite in Time, or before 
 the Curd is conne6led in the Prefs. A good 
 Vvay to prevent this diforder, of what is call- 
 ed Cheefe heaving in the Prefs, from taking 
 a bad efiFeft, which complaint generally hap- 
 pens when the Milk is put together too hot, 
 and the Whey that comes from it, is left 
 
 white 
 
( 35 ) 
 white ( which it ought never to be, for then 
 you may be fure all is not right) ; when the 
 Cheefe has firfl: been in the Prefs an Hour 
 or more, let the Prefs up and if you find the 
 Cheefe fwell, orbliftei", take a large Needle, 
 or fine Skewer, of Wood or Iron, and pierce 
 it in many places to let the Air out ; a Pin 
 is not fo well, as Brafs taints the Cheefe, and 
 it will appear of a tainted brafi)' colour ever 
 after : If you find when the Cheefe comes a- 
 gain out of the Prefs, that it ftill fw^ells, or 
 blifi;ers, apply the Needle again, and it may 
 perhaps fettle again fo as to make a ufeful 
 Cheefe ; it will never be a good one, but will 
 remain in the ftate called loofe Cheefe or 
 fliook Cheefe. Thus you may difcern fome- 
 what of the nature of flip Curd ; every Dairy- 
 woman fhould take care to become as well 
 informed of the different properties, its na- 
 ture, caufe of its Formation, and manner of 
 operating as pofTible, in order thereby to a- 
 void the many difficulties proceeding from 
 it, which are more numerous than all others, 
 in the whole fyftem of Cheefe-making put to- 
 gether, and have been by them, the leafl; con- 
 fidered and examined. In order to avoid 
 
 D 2 many 
 
(36) 
 
 many dfficulties, and render you complete 
 Miflrefs of the firfl part of the work, which 
 is a very material Crifis, take care to be well 
 informed of the nature of Maw-fl^in or Run- 
 net- fldn ; it is very proper every Dairy-wo- 
 man (liould know how to prepare them for 
 ufe, which is very eafily acquired ; to know 
 in what manner or to what degree it fliould 
 be faked, and how, properly dried, and 
 take particular care that you have the Maw 
 frefh, not in a tainted or putrid ftate, you 
 may happen to have fuch a misfortune as to 
 have it damaged either by negleft, as to 
 Time of preparing it, great heat of Weather, 
 which fometimes hurts our befl and frefheft 
 Meat in a furprizing degree, notwithfland- 
 ing every care or caution taken to prevent it, 
 or by the Skin having any way taken Wet, 
 or being Fly-blown ; to many of which mif- 
 haps the moft careful Perfon, is fometimes 
 expofed ; any of which quite alter the nature 
 of it ; being of a more particular conftruc- 
 lion than any other thing, which muft ap- 
 pear plain, when 'tis confidered, that you 
 cannot fubftitute or apply any one Thing, in 
 the Article of making Cheefe to a proper 
 
 effea 
 
(37) 
 cffeft, or that will anfwer your purpofe 
 of extrafting Curd from Milk in order to 
 make Cheefe with, but Maw-fkin ; and you 
 will find that when the Skin is damaged or 
 tainted, it loofes its fermenting quality con- 
 fiderably ; that it will either not take efFe6l 
 at all, or in a very partial and flow degree, 
 and vou will often find Cheefe made from 
 tainted Maw-fkin appear of a putrid, un- 
 fettled, ill-tafted, difcoloured nature, being 
 affecled in a different manner, according 
 to the degree of Putrifaclion the Maw-fkin 
 has received. Sometimes I have perceived 
 the Cheefe of a dufky black colour, not 
 fixt in its Texture, or become folid and 
 clofe ; fometimes, in Tafle refembling the 
 flavour of tainted Beef or Mutton, when it 
 comes to your Table ; fometimes it has the 
 fmell of rotten or addled Eggs, fometimes 
 of the moff infipid or taflelefs nature, which 
 on enquiring into the caufe, could never be 
 explained to me by the Maker. Some- 
 times an ingenious, well-difpofed Perfon, 
 who wiflied for Improvement, or to become 
 acquainted with the nature or confequence 
 of fuch complaint, would hint to me, her 
 
 D 3 fear 
 
( 38 ) 
 fear was, the Maw-fkin was damaged ; tho* 
 I have hadfome, who inflead of being open 
 to convi6lion, or that would pay any re- 
 gard either to my Opinion or Advice, v/ould 
 tell me that could not be caufe, for they 
 always prepared their own Maw fkins, and 
 no one could be more careful to cure them 
 properly, which was the reafon they always 
 avoided buying Skins as much as poflible, 
 for fear of that misfortune. All this care 
 and precaution I doubt not was juft, as from 
 the great care many People take of their 
 Dairy in every other refpeft, would be par- 
 ticularly cautious about their Maw-(kins ; 
 but let themfch es judge, whether fome of 
 the afore recited caufes, might not happen 
 to their bed endeavours. When I have come 
 to a place where the Dairy-woman has in- 
 formed me fliC has been deceived in her 
 Maw-fldns, being then I thought on fure 
 ground, or certainty of the caufe, I have been 
 very careful to become acquainted with the 
 real nature of the ill effefts produced in con- 
 fequence thereof, and have always found 
 fome of the evils before-mentioned, and 
 could often judge from the flate I found 
 
 the 
 
(39) 
 ihe Cheefe in, in what manner, or to what 
 degree it was afFefted thereby, and e\ en 
 fo as often to convince the Maker of it, that 
 my Opinion was right. If at any Time 
 this misfortune is apparent to you, that 
 fome negleft, or mifhap has taken place 
 in curing your Maw-fls.ins, you will eafily 
 guefs from which of the above caufes they 
 fpring ; and perhaps in a courfe of Time, 
 you may become well convinced, that every 
 one of thefe mifchances do fometimes hap- 
 pen, and as you muft certainly be a better, 
 or more competent judge of the real na- 
 ture of the complaints, ( than any other 
 Perfon can be from common obfervation, ) 
 you will moft likely, find other caufes of 
 damage, or misfortune that happens in the 
 procefs, more than I have enumerated ; and 
 if any material one, it would be exceeding 
 ufeful to have it made Public, for the benefit 
 of Societv, or to warn thofe of the damage, 
 whofe Bufinefs it is to fupply the Market 
 with Skins for Sale. When you perceive 
 any of your Skins have mifcarried, that they 
 are either tainted, or otherways damaged, 
 take particular notice how they appear ; in 
 
 D 4 whci 
 
( 40 ) 
 what refpeQ they differ from perfetl Skins, 
 knowing, that the Hke caufes produce fimilar 
 effefts, and then if you are obHged to buy 
 Skins, you will be enabled to avoid buying 
 fuch as have the faults you are acquainted 
 with. I have often been led, when in a Shop 
 where Maw-flvins were on Sale, to examine 
 them fomewhat minutely, and could per- 
 ceive in fome of them much difference ; I 
 have feen in the fame Skin fometimes, the 
 appearance of very different qualities ; I 
 have obferved dif-coloured Spots on holding 
 it up to the Light ; I have feen one part of 
 a Skin of a well-coloured found nature, 
 another part that had fomewhat the look of 
 rough Parchment, or hard Whit-leather ; on 
 fmeiling, it has not appeared of the fame 
 nature, or relifh, with the reft ; I have alfo 
 obferved Skins that have appeared quite 
 tainted, and even in a decaying ftate, and 
 have feen Rendlefs after being made, appear 
 of a dufky blackifti colour. A Dairy-wo*- 
 man fliould be acquainted with thefe com- 
 plaints, in order to avoid the difficulty that 
 inevitably accrues for want of that know- 
 ledge, and ftiould frequently tafte the Run- 
 net 
 
( 41 ) 
 
 net when made, that (lie may find out in 
 Time if there is any thing difagreeable at- 
 tends it ; for there is no making good Cheefe 
 .with bad Runnet. 
 
 The Maw-fldn, or bag of the Abomafus, 
 is the Maw or Stomach of Calves, that 
 have fed on nothing but Milk, and are kil- 
 led before the digeftion is perfefted, it con- 
 tains an Acid Juice called Runnet, Rennet, 
 or Earning, with which Milk is co-agulated, 
 or rendered into Curd for making Cheefe ; 
 in the Maw the Chyle is formed, that cauf- 
 es this co-agulum ; but it greatly loofes this 
 effe6l, when Calves have fed on Ve2[etable 
 Food ; the Maw of Houfe-Lamb, I am in- 
 formed will anfwer the fam.e purpofe, but 
 not of Grafs Lamb. I have heard of a 
 perfon who Salted the Curd, or Crudity 
 that was found in the Maw at the Time the 
 Calf was killed, prepared as the Maw-flvin 
 is, with good effecl;, only ufed in a larger 
 quantity. This may eafily be tried by way 
 of experiment ; I never heard of but one 
 Perfon who uled it, and fhe is now dead ; 
 that prevented my enquiry about it. Since 
 
 the 
 
(42) 
 
 the above was publifli'd I am informed, that 
 in the lafl Age, the principal part of the 
 Cheefe was made from the Curd, of the 
 Maw prepared with Salt, till it was found 
 the Skin was of a more clean and wholfome 
 nature. It is obfervable as an old Maxim, 
 that although Runnet readily co-agulates 
 Milk, yet if put in when already co-agu- 
 lated, it dilfolves it. 
 
 There are m.any ways of making, or pre- 
 paring Maw-flvins ; the bed and moil ap- 
 proved I ever met with is, as foon as your 
 Maw is got cold, when taken from the Calf 
 ( for tis known that faking Meat hot, in 
 fultry Weather, will make it taint, ) let it 
 be a little fwilled in Water ; fome People 
 fay tis better not to be clean'd at all, and 
 the eife6l will be greater, it coming nearer 
 to real nature, and the reafon given, is this, 
 'tis the infide of the Maw that has the effeft 
 in Runnet, and the chyle proceeding from 
 it, the outfide being little otlierwife than 
 any other Entrail. Rub the Maw well with 
 Salt, then fill it, and afterwards cover it 
 with Salt ; fome cut theui open and fpread 
 
 them 
 
( 43 ) 
 
 them in Salt, one over another in layers, 
 and let ihem continue in the Brine they pro- 
 duce, fometimes ftirring, or turning them, 
 for four, fix, or nine Months, as they can 
 fpare them, then open them to dry, being 
 ftretched out with flicks or fplints, that 
 they may dry regularly ; when they are dry 
 they may be ufed ; though, 'tis reckon'd 
 beft to be a Year Old before \ifed, keeping 
 them one Year under anot'her. Do not let 
 them in drying, be too near a Fire ; if heat- 
 ed too much, renders them liable to reeze, 
 ( as Bacon will, when melted by heat, ) and 
 hurts their quality, giving them a rancid 
 taile ; many People think, the Brine they 
 are prepared in, very ufeful in making your 
 Runnet, putting it amonglf it as other Brine, 
 with fmaller proportion of Runnet. People 
 differ in their way of preparing Runnet or 
 Rendlefs. Many will make it with \Vhey ; 
 fome will put in with the Whey, the Brine 
 drippings that come from the Cheefe when 
 in the Prefs. Both thefe I quite difap- 
 prove ; Whey, having already undergone 
 purgation, fermentation, or reparation of the 
 Curd from Milk, is more likely to become 
 
 vifcid 
 
( 41 ) 
 vifcid, or gummy, acrid, orfliarp, or liable 
 to putrifaftion than a more pure element. 
 Brine drippings are of a groEs foul nature, 
 and may be deem'd, ( if the expreflion may 
 be allowed ) even the very excrements of 
 Cheeefe-making, and what ought never to be 
 put in, in order to bring the Cheefe, caufing 
 a rank and foul fmell as well as tafte, I take 
 it to be the word of all difagreeables. 
 
 The way moll approved by good Dairy- 
 women, or fuch as have fallen within my 
 knowledge is this ; take pure Spring Water, 
 in quantity proportion'd to the Runnet you 
 intend to make ; it is thought bed by fome, 
 about two Skins to a Gallon of Water ; 
 boil the Water, which makes it fofter or 
 more pure, make it with Salt into Brine that 
 will fwim an Egg, then let it (land till the 
 heat is gone off, to about the heat of Blood 
 w^arm, then put your Maw-fls.in in, either 
 cut in pieces or whole ; the former I fliould 
 imagine befL or moll convenient ; letting 
 it fteep for twenty-four Hours, or two 
 Meals, ( fo called in Dairying ) and it is fit 
 for ufe, putting fuch a quantity into your 
 
 Milk 
 
( 45 ) 
 Milk as you judge necefTary, for rend- 
 ling your quantity of Milk into Curd; ob- 
 ferving that too much Runnet makes the 
 Cheefe ftrong and liable to heave, and is 
 what many People call, taftes of the Bull, 
 or Bull Cheefe ( efpecially when Brine drip- 
 pings are put in. ) Too little Runnet makes 
 it very mild, and mud have more time to 
 (land, before it is broke, or funk : The judg- 
 ment required, in the quantity of Runnet, 
 to be ufed mud be regulated by your own 
 prudence, increafing or leflening it as you 
 find it necelfary ; 'tis often reckon'd, about 
 a Tea-cup full, to ten Cows Milk. If you 
 make a quantity of Runnet together to keep 
 for ufe, let the fame method be ufed, in- 
 creahng the quantity of each material to 
 what you want, putting it in jars or bottles, 
 till you want it. 
 
 I have frequently heard Dairy-women 
 mention putting in rofe leaves and fpices of 
 different kind into the Rennet at the Time 
 of preparing it, in order to give it a relifh, 
 and make the Cheefe fine flavor'd. 
 
 Mr. Hazard, in his Effay to the Batk 
 
 Society 
 
( 46 ) 
 
 Society gives a receipt for making Rennet 
 after this manner ; when the Maw-flvin h 
 well prepared and fit for thepurpofe, ih.ee 
 pints or two quarts of foft Water ( clean and 
 fweet ) (hould be mix'd with Salt, wherein 
 fhould be put fweet briar, rofe leaves and 
 flowers, cinamon, mace, cloves, and in (hort 
 almoft every fort of fpice and aromatic that 
 can be procured, and if thefe are put into 
 two quarts of Water they muft boil gently 
 till the liquor is reduced to three pints, and 
 care fliould be taken that this liquor is not 
 fmoaked; it (hould be drained clear from the 
 fpices &c. and when found to be not warmer 
 than Milk from the Cow, it (hould be poured 
 upon the Veil or Maw, a lemon may then 
 be (liced into it, when it may remain, a day 
 or two, after which, it (liould be (Irain'd a- 
 gain and put in a bottle, w^here if well cork- 
 ed, it will keep good for twelve months or 
 more, it will fmell like a perfume, and a 
 fmall quantity of it will turn the Milk and 
 give the Cheefe a pleafing flavour — he far- 
 ther adds — after this, if the Veil or Maw, 
 be faked and dried for a week or two near 
 the Fire, it will do for the purpofe again al- 
 moll as well as before. A 
 
in) 
 
 A very material circumdance to be at- 
 tended to in Cheefe-making, is the time al- 
 low'd for the Cheefe coming, or from the 
 time allov/'d for the Runnet to take effeft, 
 or the time when the Milk is at reft, called 
 earning time. * Which fhould on no ac- 
 count be lefs than an hour and half; all that 
 is ftirred, gather'd, or funk, in lefs time is 
 liable to danger. It may happen, and often 
 does, that it will come fooner, efpecially 
 when the method I have recommended of 
 putting Salt in the Milk is ufed, and where 
 care is taken to have the Milk of a proper 
 v/armth, as in thefe cafes the Curd co-agu- 
 latesor collefts fooner on that account ; I 
 believe it will be found that the additional 
 time given will never be of any bad con- 
 fequence, as the Curd then gets firm, and 
 on finking, becomes more folid, and is eafier 
 made into Cheefe, in lefs time, and with 
 much iefs trouble, than when (lirred or broke 
 fooner. What is called funk Cheefe is al- 
 ways allowed to be the fatteft ; w^hen Curd 
 is fully fet, or fixed of a folid nature, by 
 having time enough, it will incline to fink 
 
 * Synonimous Terms. 
 
(48) 
 to the bottom of the Tub, by the afififlance 
 of the Hand to gently Prefs it down, gather, 
 or colleft it, and will foon become of a folid 
 nature ; mofl; People break the Curd, by 
 llirring it round feveral times with the Bowl, 
 in order that it may be colleded together. 
 Sinking, is performed by getting it down, or 
 fmking with the Hand, without breaking. 
 
 In order to prevent a difficulty in getting 
 the Whey to feparate eafily when fmking 
 the Curd, you may prepare a long Cheefe 
 Knife made with a Lath, one edge being 
 {harpened to cut the Curd a crofs from top 
 to bottom, in the Tub, three or four dif- 
 ferent times croffing the lines, checkerwife, 
 by which means the Whey rifes through the 
 vacancies made by the Knife, and the Curd 
 fmks with much more eafe. I have alfo 
 known a fieve ufed to facilitate or haflen 
 the Curd finking, with fuccefs, as it gives 
 an opportunity to lade off the Whey clear 
 from Curd, gets the Curd down much eafier 
 and faves time. 
 
 When all the Curd is got firm at the bot- 
 tom 
 
(49) 
 
 bottom of the Tub, by prefTure of the hancT^ 
 let all the Whey be taken from it ; then let 
 it fland one quarter of an Hour for the Curd 
 to fettle, drain, and get folid, before you 
 break it into the Vat ; if any bits of flip Curd 
 happen to be fwimming in the Whey, that 
 does not fmk with the reft, it had better be 
 put away with the W^hey, than put to the 
 Cheefe, as it will not cement or join with the 
 folid Curd, and all flip Curd, as before ob- 
 ferved, diffolves or melts, fo that it is a de- 
 triment to Cheefe when ever put in ; many 
 People, as foon as the Whey is removed, 
 immediately break the Curd fmall as pofhble, 
 and then put it into the Cheefe Vat, for fi- 
 nifhing. I would always recommend that it 
 reft one quarter of an Hour, before 'its broke, 
 or vatted ; the Cheefe would be much better 
 for it, as the Air would more eafily feparate, 
 and prevent its puffing up under your hand, 
 when fqueezing in the Vat, and alfo pre- 
 vent the Fat fqueezing out, as it often does 
 through your Fingers ; w^hich being fa 
 much broke, occafions, and certainly it mufl 
 make your Cheefe, both leaner and lighten 
 I have confulted many good Dairy- women, 
 
 £ on 
 
( 5° ) 
 
 on die Article of breaking Cheefe, and find, 
 'tis the mofl general method to break the 
 Curd as fmall as pofTible, when put into the 
 Vat ; but what makes that more abfolutely 
 neceflary, is, there being flip Curd amongft 
 it, and that never appears to embody, or 
 join with the refl:, unlefs broke and thorough- 
 ly mixed ; and even then I am fully convin- 
 ced is of no ufe forthereafon above given ; 
 although I have laid it down as a rule, never 
 to ftir or gather the Cheefe in lefs than an 
 Hour and half, many of the beft Dairy-wo- 
 men I have ever confulted, generally let it 
 ftand two Hours ; by which time the Curd 
 is got to be of fo firm a nature, as to render 
 the breaking of it at all abfolutely needlefs, 
 it being got fo folid, they only cut it in flices, 
 put it into the Vat and work it well into it, 
 by fqueezing thoroughly to make it firm 
 and clofe, then put it into the Prefs, and no 
 more is needful. The fineft, fatteft and beft 
 Cheefe I have feen, I have been informed 
 was made this way ; there is fure to be no 
 fweet Cheefe, horny-coated, or jointed 
 Cheefe made in this manner ; fometimes 
 I have obferved Cheefe that has been 
 
 funk 
 
(51 ) 
 
 funk, tho' very fat and well tafted, that 
 would become very hard and cut chifelly, 
 which I take to be owing to the Curd getting 
 very cold and fet hard before Vatted, to pre- 
 vent its doing fo, it may be neceffary to break 
 the Curd and not give it quite fo much time 
 in earning ; as many People prefer Cheefe 
 that is not fo very folid, or that has a mel* 
 low foftnefs, which breaking will give it ; 
 although it is reckon'd the bed quality to cut 
 folid, and flakey; remembering that giving 
 it more time in earning makes it more folid, 
 and (hortning the time makes it lefs fo. 
 Many Dairy-women are much puzzled con* 
 cerninsf the caufe of fweet Cheefe, forming 
 different ideas about it; I am fully convinced 
 it is wholly caufed by ftirring or breaking it 
 too foon in the Tub, by which means the 
 Runnet has never taken full effeft, nor is any 
 flip Curd ever fit to make Cheefe with, iil 
 what ever ftate it may appear, unlefs in foft 
 Cheefe, or flip- coat Cheefe ; for v/hen Curd 
 is quite in a flippery ftate, efpecially if very 
 warm, fait will have very little effeft on it, 
 which is the caufe it is fo apt to putrify and 
 diffolve, and a very principal caufe why 
 
 E 2 Cheefe 
 
C 52 ) 
 
 Gheefe becomes fweet, is, its not having ta- 
 ken fait, as you may generally perceive 
 Cheefe that is much jointed or blue pared 
 has fcarce any relifh or faltnefs in it. When 
 the Whey is of a white colour the Curd h 
 not fully fettled, and if it is fo to any great 
 degree, the Cheefe is fure to be fweet, and 
 in that cafe you always cafl away great part 
 of what fhould be Cheefe, for the Whey thus 
 put away would neither turn to Butter nor 
 Cheefe, though of a confiderable fubllance, 
 remaining of an undigefted nature: If you 
 purfue the method I have laid down, you 
 will always find the Whey quite green, 
 which is the colour it ought to be of; and 
 let more or lefs be the time you adopt to 
 put your Cheefe together, if the Whey is 
 not green, depend upon it your Cheefe is 
 not properly come, or your Maw-fkin is not 
 good, or quantity of Runnet not fufficient. 
 It is difficult to aflertain what quantity of 
 Runnet is required to bring a Cheefe in the 
 moft proper manner, as the quality of the 
 Skin is fo various, and flrength of Runnet, 
 as well as quality of Milk fo different ; Peo- 
 pje are much divided in opinion, w^hether 
 
 'tis 
 
(53) 
 *tis the beft way to make your Rimnet frefh 
 every Day, or to prepare a quantity to- 
 gether, according to the quantity you want 
 and bottle it up for ufe ; in large Dairy's it 
 mud be beft to make a quantity together, 
 as you certainly muft be a better judge of 
 the quality, or what quantity is neceflary, 
 than when the making is left to chance, as 
 by that means you may regulate the quali- 
 ty and tafte of your Cheefe better, and have 
 more dependance on the time of its coming. 
 The beft Dairy-women I have known, 
 in general, recommend the latter method, 
 
 Thecaufe of jointing or wind-fliook Cheefe, 
 is from a fmall quantity of flip Curd being 
 much broke, fo as not fufficient, to form Eyes 
 in the Cheefe ; but which is fufficient when 
 diftblved through the whole mafs, to leave a 
 vacancy, which generally unites in a perpen- 
 dicular dire6lion,and forming cracks or joints 
 within the Cheefe, and fmking joints nearly 
 like to cracks on the outfide. If it happens 
 to any confiderable degree, it caufes the 
 Cheefe to have very little tafte, generally 
 iurns blue-pared whilft under a year old, and 
 E ^ often 
 
( 54 ) 
 often rotten Checfe when older ; moft dry 
 rotten Cheefe is produced from this effeft, 
 unlefs when bruifes, or cracks are the caufe. 
 Wet, or moifl rotten is generally produced 
 by a larger quantity of flip Curd ; having ne- 
 ver united in a folid ftate, nor taken any fait, 
 becomes very putrid and rots, and as the 
 Cheefe diflblves, is often very wet or moid. 
 I have feveral times feen Cheefe that has ap- 
 peared found till cut, that afterwards had not 
 a pound of found Cheefe in a whole one. 
 Spungy Cheefe is fuch as partakes of the e- 
 laftic or fpringing quality of a Spunge, I 
 take it to be produced from Curd, which has 
 nearly undergone every proper fermentation 
 to make the Curd unite, but leaves it in a ve- 
 ry tough ftate, caufed by the over heat of 
 the Milk when put together. Rank, or 
 ft rong Cheefe is generally caufed by too great 
 a quantity of Runnet, and that Runnet made 
 too ftrong to operate in the time given, or 
 from Runnet being made with foul materials; 
 hove, or heaved Cheefe is caufed by dif- 
 ferent means ; when the quantity of Air in 
 Cheefe increafes after the Cheefe has been 
 fome time made, I fuppofe fuch Air to be 
 
 rarified 
 
(55) 
 
 rarlfied by a greater heat than the Cheefe 
 has before been in, the coat being got hard 
 and the pores much clofed, the Air expands 
 within, and caufes the Cheefe to rife or fwell, 
 in a round form ; this is very vihble when 
 you put a tafter into the Cheefe or a pin to 
 let out the Air, it rufheth forth with a (Irong 
 wind, of a rank difagreeable fmell, caufed 
 by the Air being difcharged from putrid or 
 undigefted Curd. Sometimes, if Cheefe is 
 laid cool when firft made, or coming from 
 the Prefs, is dried outwardly by means of 
 a harfli cool Air, when at the fame time 
 the infide of the Cheefe remains in a moid 
 (late, though the coat is hard and dr)^ ; when 
 that Cheefe is expofed to heat, either by 
 lying near a hot Wall, or near Tiles in hot 
 Weather, or by the immediate heat of the 
 Sun, it will be drawn up, round, in the fame 
 manner, and by the fame caufe that a board 
 is made round or coffer'd up, by the heat 
 of the Sun ; rank Cheefe very often heaves, 
 from the caufe before s^nen that makes it 
 rank: 'Tisvery common for Dairy- women, 
 to afk, what will cure hove, or heav'd Cheefe? 
 I am fully of opinon there is no cure for it 
 E 4 after 
 
(56) 
 
 after it is affetled with heaving,, but to let the 
 Air out of it, that it may clofe and fettle ar 
 gain. There has for pany Years, been an 
 ingredient fold in Shops, called Cheefe-pow- 
 der, being made of nitre or fait petre, and 
 bole armoniac proportion'd thus, to one 
 pound of fait petre, put half an ounce of bole 
 armoniac, both powder'd very fin"e, and well 
 mixt together, rub about one quarter of an 
 ounce upon a Cheefe, when put a fecond and 
 third time into the Prefs, about half on each 
 fide the Cheefe at two different meals, on the 
 upper fide, before you rub the fait on, that it 
 may penetrate the Cheefe with it; thefe are 
 very binding ingredients and are fometimes 
 found to be very ferviceable, but nitre is apt 
 to give the Cheefe an acetous or fourifh tafle, 
 and if too much is put in, and the Cheefe 
 is expos'dto great heat, willcaufe a fermenta- 
 tion, that will encreafe the quantity of Air in 
 the Cheefe & caufe it to fwell more than it 
 would if none had been put in. I have 
 known many things recommended as a cure, 
 but could never find that any thing was fer- 
 viceable except the above, and piercing, 
 pr difcharging the Air, with a needle, wire, 
 
 or 
 
i57) 
 er flvewer. The mofl powerful preventa- 
 tive to the heaving of Cheefe, is, to avoid 
 making the Runnet too ftrong, or, not to 
 put too much into the Milk, to take care 
 that your Runnet is not foul, nor made ei- 
 ther with Whey or Brine drippings, or taint- 
 ed Skins, to be certain that your Curd is ful- 
 ly come, not ftirring it till it has had time 
 for the fermentation fully to take effe61, to 
 let it drain a little before it is broke or vatted, 
 and to keep the Cheefe warm, till it is got 
 ftiff, or had a fweat, and you will, by a care- 
 ful attention to thefe particulars, very fel- 
 dom have any hove Cheefe. 
 
 Cheefe is very apt to fplit, or divide in 
 the middle, by being faked within, efpecial- 
 ly, when people Ipread fait acrofs the mid- 
 dle of the Cheefe when the vat is about half 
 filled, which Curd tho' in a fmall degree 
 feparated by fait, never clofes, or joins, and 
 is much eafier coffer'd up or drawn round 
 than other Cheefe ; efpecially, thin Cheefe 
 jiiade in what we call Glocejter vats being 
 round or rifmg in the bottom, and the Aider 
 pr Cheefe-board that is laid over it, made 
 
 convex 
 
(58) 
 convex alfo, in order to make the Cheefe 
 thinnefl; in the middle, that it may dry quick, 
 for early fale. Then, if faked within and 
 being laid foftonthe fhelfto dry, as it bears 
 only on the edge all round, it is almoft fure 
 to fplit ; and it is often feen, fcarce a Cheefe 
 in fome Dairys of this form but what do 
 fplit ; faking a little in the Milk is greatly 
 preferable, for thefe Dairys in particular ; 
 for as fait dilfolves, it keeps the infide of 
 the Cheefe moifl or foft for fometime, if fak- 
 ed in the Curd, which is what I would 
 never recommend to be done in any Dairy, 
 efpecially acrofs the middle as is often 
 done. I ha\*^e fometimes known Cheefe 
 thus faked when there has been much (lip 
 Curd in it, and that, and the fait both dif- 
 folving together, and the Cheefe fplit, the 
 vacancy (hall contain a quantity of Water, 
 which if ironed wlien Young, gufl^ies out, 
 or elfe cracks the Clieele when moved, 
 and the Water runs out to a confiderable 
 degree, the fame thing muft have been ob- 
 ferved by other Factors, in fome Dairys 
 where faking in the middle is ufed. Cheefe 
 is apt to bulge, fly-out, or get round edged, 
 
 when 
 
(59) 
 
 when it is either kept Toft, by being moifi: 
 within, or having too much flip Curd or 
 unfettled Curd, or elaftic Air within it. Dry- 
 cracks, or w ind cracks are generally pro- 
 duced, by keeping Curd from one meal to 
 another which gets quite cold and fixed, and 
 being put together with Curd that is made of 
 too hot Milk, thefe two, never properly ad- 
 here, or join, and caufe the coai: to be harfli, 
 and often fly, or crack. Curdly or wrinkle- 
 coated Cheefe is caufed by four Milk, chief- 
 ly when Cheefe is made from two meals, as 
 'tis very common in hot Weather for Milk 
 to turn, or get four in one night's time, ef- 
 pecially if Milk is hot when fet up, having 
 been much heated in the Cow's Udder, and 
 very probably much agitated and difl:urbed 
 by Cows running about, or being heated to 
 a violent degree, or the Milk having been 
 carried in Churns or Barrels on Horfe-back 
 any diftance ; Cheefe made of cold Milk, ef- 
 pecially if inclined to be four, is apt to cut 
 chifellv, or that breaks or flies before the 
 knife. Sunk-coated Cheefe is caufed by 
 being made too cold, as you will often 
 iind Cheefe that is made in Winter or late 
 
 ill 
 
( 6o ) 
 
 In Autumn, will be, unlefs laid in a warm 
 Room after it is made. Two-meal Cheefe 
 is made with two-meals, or night and morn- 
 ings Milk, which if put together pure, not 
 liaving the Cream taken off, will make near- 
 ly as good Cheefe as new Milk, and much 
 better if it mud be finiflied in one Hour, 
 or lefs, or when new Milk Cheefe is made 
 with Milk that is too hot. 
 
 What is generally known by the name of 
 two-meal Cheefe, is in Gloucrjierjhire called 
 fecond Cheefe, being made from one meal 
 new Milk and one of old, or (kimmed Milk, 
 having the Cream taken away. Skimmed 
 Cheefe, or Flet-AIilk Cheefe, is made from 
 all {kimmed Milk, the Cream having been 
 taken off the whole to make Butter, or for 
 other purpofes : This fort of Cheefe is much 
 made in the County of Suffolky or at leaft 
 goes by the name o^ Suffolk Cheefe, when 
 at market, or in London, where the princi- 
 pal part of it is difpofed of; it being much 
 ufed on iliip-board, not being fo much af. 
 fefted by the heat of the (hip as richer 
 Cheefe, or fo fubjecl: to decay in long Voyr 
 
 ages 
 
(6i ) 
 
 8ges, and being bought at a low price, makes 
 it much called for in that way. There is 
 but little art required in making this Cheefe, 
 if care is taken of it, but yet there is great 
 difference in the quality of it, which I am 
 fully convinced is principally caufed by want 
 of care ; it is not expofed to fo many dif- 
 ficulties as richer Cheefe, but Dairy-women 
 mufl remember, flip-curd has the fame ef- 
 fe6i, in a lefler degree in Skim-Cheefe as in 
 new Milk ; though the Milk being much 
 weaker is not in fo much danger. An Hour, 
 or an Hour and a Quarter is time enousfhto 
 give it in rendling ; keep the Cheefe warm 
 when young, and cool after. I know fome 
 Dairy-women do not give it three quarters of 
 an Hour in coming, and tliereby find more 
 difficulty than need be ; paying little regard 
 to it, as they do not ufe it themfelves, nor 
 will it fetch much money, yet I know fome 
 careful Dair)'- women who make Skim-cheefe 
 that would deceive a common obfer\'er, in 
 appearance, being made in the fame form as 
 new Milk Cheefe, well coloured, made 
 clean, and better coated, than many ordi- 
 nary Dairys of new Milk Cheefe. 
 
 I have 
 
(62) 
 I have paid in a Dairy of thirty Cows 
 upwards of fixty Pounds in a Year for 
 {l<im Cheefe, an objeft not unworthy a 
 Dairy -man's notice, fome people are of 
 opinion, the moft Money to be made of 
 the fkim Milk of a Dairy, is to feed Sows 
 and Pigs with it, but this I mufh leave to 
 thofe concerned in the bufmefs. Some 
 Dairy-women in order to enrich their new 
 Milk Cheefes will put the Whey Cream, in- 
 to their Milk, which if quite frefh, not old- 
 'er than one or two Meals, will improve it. 
 To make fine Cream Checfe, one meal of 
 Cream extraordinary (hould be added to the 
 new Milk ; this will make exceeding rich 
 Cheefe, but requires great care, and (hould 
 not be gathered or funk in lefs than two 
 Hours. I apprehend two Hours and a half 
 or three Hours will be found much better 
 in general. 
 
 The way recommended to make foft 
 Cheefe, or flip coat Cheefe, is, take fix quarts 
 of new Milk hot from the Cow ; the fliroak- 
 ings or lafl Milkings are the beft, being the 
 richefl Milk ; put into it two fpoonfuls of 
 
 Run- 
 
(63) 
 
 Runnet, let it (land three quarters of an hour, 
 or till it is hard coming, or become full Curd; 
 lay it into the Vat witha fpoon, not breaking 
 it at all, laying upon it a trencher, or flat- 
 board ; prefs it with a four pound weight, 
 or if you find it gets too hard, then prefs 
 it with a lighter weight, turning it with a 
 dry cloth once an hour, and when got ftifF, 
 fhift it every day upon frefh grafs or rufhes ; 
 it will be fit to cut in ten or fourteen days, 
 or fooner, if the Weather be warm ; many 
 people ufe Balkets, made on purpofe, inftead 
 of Vats to make it in, this is efteemed in 
 private Families ; where it is carried to 
 market. Vats muft be beft, unlefs carried in 
 the Balkets. 
 
 To make brick bat Cheefe ; in September, 
 take two gallons of new Milk, and a quart 
 of good Cream ; warm the Cream, put in 
 two or three fpoonfuls of Runnet, when it 
 is well come, break it a little, then put it 
 into a wooden mould in the fhape of a brick, 
 prefs it a little, then dry it ; it is beft to be 
 half a Year old before it is ufed, or more, 
 if you like it older ; two hours is as little 
 
 \ as 
 
( 64 ) 
 
 as it ought to be in earning, or to (land 
 before it is broke after the Runnet is put in, 
 or longer if the Whey is not inclined to be 
 green. I am informed Stilton Cheefe is 
 made in this way. - '^ 
 
 Cream Cheefe is generally made in An-- 
 tumn, the Milk being richer and fatter in 
 Auguji and September ; by which means it 
 has not the warm Seafon to ripen it, and 
 it is generally made thick, in order to pre- 
 ferve it's mellownefs. Rich Cheefe will not 
 dry fo fall as lean, nor thick Cheefe fo foon 
 as thin ; in courfe it muft get lefs hard m 
 the Seafon than common thin Cheefe, by 
 which means it is more expofed to frofl and 
 chilling cold. I have often found that peo- 
 ple who make Cream Cheefes, find more 
 cafualty attend them, than in leaner, hard 
 Cheefes, owing to chillnefs, or being froze 
 before they get hard ; for when frofl gets 
 much into Cheefe, it deftroys every good 
 quality, and makes it putrify, and become 
 either infipid or ill tailed ; Cream Cheefe 
 fhould always be kept in a warm fituation, 
 and be particularly guarded from frofl, and 
 
 till 
 
(65) 
 
 till it has fweat v/ell, or you will lofe the ad- 
 vantage of its richnefs. The contrary me- 
 thod is to be ufed with flvim Cheefe, as in 
 that, there is very little fat to fweat out, and 
 chill Cheefe is better than harfh-meated, 
 homey - coated Cheefe ; let it have what 
 warmth you can for about a fortnight after 
 making, and then keep it cool. 
 
 In making flip-coat or foft Cheefe, remem- 
 ber it is of quite a contrary nature to hard 
 Cheefe ; and inftead of getting (liff, its beft 
 quality is to have it run, or diflblve into a 
 creamy fubftance ; for which reafon it muft 
 be made with Slip -Curd, which alone will 
 caufe it fo to do ; good Curd will always 
 get harder by drying, but Slip - Curd will 
 not even become folid, or continue a Sub- 
 ftance ; this clearly demonftrates my Senti- 
 ments on Slip-Curd as before related. It 
 has generally been reckoned that the Milk 
 required to make one Pound of Butter will 
 make two Pounds of Cheefe, and a larger 
 quantity where Land is poor, the Milk be- 
 ing weak will not afford lb much Cream. 
 
 F As 
 
(66) 
 As colouring of Checfe is now become 
 almoft an univerfal praftice, it is highly ne- 
 celTary to pay a due regard thereto ; Cheefe, 
 in its native ftate, that is well Manufactur- 
 ed, being put together in proper time, the 
 Milk of proper warmth, well cleaned when 
 young, and kept warm, till i^eing regularly 
 Dry, will naturally be of a yellow caft, and 
 when a Year old will coat of a reddifh or 
 brown- red colour ; the richer the Cheefe, the 
 more tis inclined to appear in this manner, 
 and you feldom meet with Cheefe of this 
 native caft but what is exceeding good, be- 
 ing fat, well-tafted, cuts flaky, is ftout, or 
 full-tafted, "high-flavour d Cheefe ; and it is 
 found that every country will produce fome 
 fuch Cheefe, when in the hands of flvilful 
 Dairy-folks, though it has yet appeared in 
 a fmall degree ; you will find fuch Cheefe 
 among the fine Dairys in CheJJiire, Double- 
 Gloucejler, or Thick-Gloucejler, being made 
 double the Thicknefs of common Cheefe, 
 North-Wilts, m fome few Dairys, in Derby, 
 Stafford, Leicejler, and Warwickjliires, but 
 there being fo fmall a proportion of this 
 befl Cheefe^ and the demand for it being 
 
 larger 
 
(67) 
 larger than the fupply, afubftitute is thought 
 necefTary, to make good Cheefe look as 
 much like fine Cheefe as poflible, from which 
 caufe the art of colouring originates, and 
 much increafes. 
 
 It is remarked by dealers in Cheefe as well 
 as others, that a much greater part of the 
 People that eat Cheefe, have little Idea how 
 it is produced ; they, finding the beft Cheefei 
 of the fullefl:, or yellow colour, naturally 
 conclude, or are led to think, that Cheefe of 
 a pale colour, muff be made with inferior 
 ( or fkimmed ) Milk. So much this Idea pre- 
 vails, that it is well known, in London, si 
 Cheefe-monger will more readily fell good 
 Cheefe of a full colour than fine Cheefe of a 
 pale or inferior colour ; London being the 
 principal Market, or place where the grea- 
 teft quantity of thebeft Cheefe is fold. . Co- 
 louring formerly uled to be performed by 
 various Drugs, as Turvierick, Sanders, &c, 
 by Marigolds, Hawthorn-buds, and the like. 
 The principal ingredients now ufed is Annat- 
 to, and in its bed kind, is much the bed 
 colouring that ever was found out. Annate 
 
 F 2 ta 
 
(68) 
 
 to is of two forts, known by the name of 
 SpamJIi-Annatto and Flag-Annatto, the for- 
 mer is much the bed for Cheefe-colouring ; 
 being of a hard fubftance, and proper in 
 kind, or texture, difpenhng its colour in a 
 regular and free manner, without being fub- 
 je6l to much wafle or decay. The Flag- 
 Annatto is brought over in a moift ftate, and 
 wrapped in large broad Flags, which keeps 
 it in fome degree from wafle ; it is brought 
 in that ftate chiefly for the Dyers ufe, and 
 is a principal Article in Dying Orange-co- 
 lour ; if this fort is ufed in colouring Cheefe 
 before it gets hard, it is apt to appear in the 
 Milk of an oily nature which prevents the 
 colour taking effeft in a regular manner, 
 and is fome detriment to the coming of 
 Cheefe ; if it is kept till quite dry and hard, 
 which in courfe of time it will be, perhaps 
 in fix, nine, or twelve Months, it is then 
 very little inferior to Spanijli. Of this laft 
 ingredient, mixt with others, the Druggifts 
 and Blue makers in London, make large 
 quantities of what they call Cheefe-colour- 
 ing, often giving it the name o^SpaniJh An- 
 natto, and there is fome of itmade, to very 
 
 much 
 
( 69 ) 
 much refemble it, both in nature, and co- 
 lour. But true Sfiani/Ji-Anna'to is much 
 preferable ; I have known an ounce of it 
 colour ten hundred weight of Cheefe, of a 
 much better colour than any other ingre- 
 dient would that I ever knew ; I have 
 known it formerly fold in fliops at three 
 (liillings, and four (liillings per ounce ; the 
 great price it then brought at market, and 
 getting very much into ufe, induced the 
 American planters, at one time, to fend a 
 large quantity, which fo much over^ftocked 
 the market, and lowered the price, that it 
 was not worth their while to make it ; and 
 for that reafon, very little of the genuine 
 fort has come to England fmce ; but the 
 fame materials have come in flags, which 
 come at a much lower price, though nearly 
 as dear in the end, being fo much heavier, 
 and the colour not going fo far as the Span- 
 ijli, nor is the colour fo exquifite or bloom- 
 ing as the Spanifli ; that, giving the Cheefe 
 the bloom of native yellow Butter, v/hen 
 made in the prime feafon of Spring. An 
 ill opinion having been formed of coloured 
 Cheefcj and by many faid, that it is un- 
 
 F 3 whol fo mc 
 
( 70 ) 
 Kvholfome; in order to remove that preju* 
 
 dice, I will endeavour to defcribe its nature. 
 
 It is made from the feed of a plant, of the 
 
 floweri ig kind, much like to abalfam, the 
 
 feed is fo much like it, as fcarce to be dif- 
 
 tinguifhed from it ; I have fowed it, but 
 
 without effeO, our climate being too cold. 
 
 I was fomtime fince enquiring pf a Jamaica 
 
 Planter, how the Annatto was prepared for 
 
 ufe ; who faid when the Seed was ripe it was 
 
 covered with a (limy or unftuous flvin like 
 
 as Lin feed is, which being fleeped a little 
 
 while in water, became loofe from the Seed 
 
 and was rubbed off with a cloth or flannel, 
 
 which being afterwards wafhed with water, 
 
 was funk to the bottom ; on pouring the 
 
 water off, the Annatto was produced in a 
 
 wet pulp, or pafLe, which being wrapped ir^ 
 
 flags, w^s ready for Dyers ufe. 
 
 In the SpaniJJi IJlands, they dry it and 
 make it up in balls for ufe, and 'tis ^ prin- 
 cipal ingredient in lacquering brafs, &c. as 
 well as colouring Cheefe. I am well con- 
 vinced that in its pure ftate, it is of a very 
 rich fattening nature, and improves Cheefe 
 
 to 
 
(70 
 
 to a great degree, in quality, as well as colour^ 
 as I never met with any Cheefe fo exquifite, 
 that had not been coloured with it, as 
 I have of that which hath. The way it is 
 ufed in colouring Cheefe, is, take a piece of 
 SpamJJi-Annatto, which appears in form of 
 a ftone, then take a bowl of Milk, dip the 
 Annatto a little into it, then take a pebble, 
 or hard Rag-Rone, on which rub the Wet- 
 Annatto, wafhing off the Annatto into the 
 bowl, till it becomes of a deep colour, then 
 put that into the tub, or pan of Alilk you 
 make Cheefe of, (before you put in the Run- 
 net or Salt^ in fuch quantity as will render 
 the whole of a pale Orange-colour, which 
 will get deeper, or iiicreafe in colour after 
 the Cheefe is made ; one good property An- 
 natto partakes of, it neither affecls the Cheefe 
 in tafte or fmell. Cheefe is often impregnat- 
 ed v/ith Sac^e, by bruifin^ the leaves and 
 mixing the juice with Milk, which gives it 
 a green colour, and an agreeable tafte. Some 
 ufe Parfley in the fame m.anner, but that is 
 not fo much efteemed for flavour as Sage, 
 IMarigold-flowers are bruifed and ufed the 
 fame way ; thefe flowers are reckoned of a 
 F 4 very 
 
( 72 ) 
 
 very fattening nature, and good flavour, 
 and efteemed the mod of any, and give the 
 Cheefe a colour nearly equal to Annatto. 
 Cochineal is alfo ufed by the curious, being 
 of a fine pink hue, and has a pretty effeft, 
 in the hand of an ingenious Dairy-woman, 
 in making figures of Flowers, Trees, &c, in 
 Cheefe. 
 
 Dairy-women who are fully of opinion, 
 that no better method can be ufed, than that 
 which they apply, are not often very readi- 
 ly convinced, that there are better methods 
 of making Cheefe than theirs. A Faftor 
 who is a good judge of Cheefe, fees a great 
 variety in the quality of Cheefe, and altho' 
 mofl People like good Cheefe, yet fo eafily 
 is the difference difcerned by nice judges, 
 who have frequent opportunities of remark- 
 ing it, that they can perceive a real and dif;* 
 tinguifhing property, that caufes a very 
 different Idea in them, from what they hear 
 advanced by the makers. Such a dealer is 
 very certain, that in a large connexion of 
 trade, he will find fome very good judges, w^ho 
 know how to prefer excellence in quality, 
 
 and 
 
( 73 ) 
 and are well acquainted with the perfec- 
 tions required in the article, and perhaps 
 from their fituation in life, are enabled 
 to get a much higher, than a common 
 Market-price, for a fuperior Article : Such 
 a Perfon will have fuch goods, in what 
 place foever they can be met with, and 
 knows alfo that in order to procure them he 
 muft give a fuperior Price. 
 
 A Perfon who engages to fupply fuch 
 cuflomers, as fuch there are in perhaps e- 
 very country, in a larger or lefTer degree, 
 mufl ufe his own judgment, and not depend 
 on the good opinion others may form of 
 their goods. He will find in a very large 
 furvey, amongfl Dairys, in the beft country 
 he travels, a very fmall proportion of ex- 
 cellent Dairys, or fuch as will iupply thofe 
 particular cufhomers, and when he meets 
 with them, is perhaps, obliged to deal them 
 put very fparingly to the different good 
 cuftomers, that may wifh to have fome 
 particular nice, and good Cheefe for fuch of 
 their Friends, who are likewife determined 
 to have the very beft they can meet with. 
 
 Very 
 
(74) 
 Very good fecond-rate Cheere, is much more 
 fcarce than inferior, and the bed, will fliil 
 find cuflomers. Every dealer would be hap- 
 py to find a large fupply of fine Cheefe, e- 
 very maker of Cheefe would be glad to have 
 his Dairy meet with that preference. Some 
 Dairy-folks will complain that there is not 
 proper encouragement given for making 
 good Cheefe ; as Faftors give for all Dairys 
 in a neighbourhood, nearly tlie fame Price, 
 though fome of thefe Dairys are not fo good 
 as others, by fome (hillings per hundred; 
 But then let thefe people remember, that 
 'tis themfelves only that fit in judgment in 
 this cafe. Bring the makers of two Dairys 
 together, and you will hear each of them 
 give the preference to their own. The FaCr 
 tor muft clear himfelf of this chars^e ! For 
 'tis of dangerous confequence, for a Fatlor 
 to complain of any fauh in the Cheele to the 
 maker, or not give it fufficient praife. — Per- 
 haps he will fay to the Perfon, whofe Dairy 
 may appear the neateft, and have had moft 
 care taken of it, and in the Eye of moft 
 people, had the preference, your Cheefe is 
 extremely neat and good, is fat and mild, 
 
 and 
 
(75) 
 
 and will pleafe many of our bed cuftomers 
 exceedingly, will even (land in comDetition 
 with Gloucejier and WiltJJiire Cheefe, which 
 is always neat, well-handled, and moftly ef- 
 fleemed by genteel People, your neighbour's 
 Cheefe is not fo mild or beautiful, but has 
 many good qualities, 'tis full flavoured, flout 
 Cheefe, fuch as is moft in demand, is bought 
 by people who do not fo much mind the 
 beauty of it, as being profitable Cheefe to 
 buy, that will fpend \\^e\\, or according to 
 the common Phrafe, will eat Bread well, 
 and though there may be a few ftrong Cheef- 
 es amongfl them, there are many cuRomers 
 wifn to have them fo. If you go into a Fair, 
 you will find fome people looking for hand- 
 fome mild Cheefe, but more buyers of flout, 
 good fpending Cheefe, of which they mufl be 
 better judges, what fuits their fale, than the 
 makers. — Certainly there are in moft Coun- 
 tries, fome few Dairys that have all the good 
 qualities ; beautiful, fat, fine flavoured, &c. 
 and thefe generally find their way to the befl 
 market. There is one befl way of doing eve- 
 ry thing, and 'tis what in every way of life is 
 ji caufe of flrife ; a maxim I was taught in 
 
 my 
 
( 76 ) 
 my youth, was, never drive to be fecond beft, 
 fome one muft prevail, and they that do muft 
 ftrive for it, the beft way of doing a thing 
 is as eafy, when known, as the fecond beft. 
 This emulation is what every dealer in 
 Cheefe M^ould wifh to difcover in thebreaft, 
 and proceedings, of the Different Dairy-folks 
 in his walk, that he might be enabled to go 
 to Market, as one, who could lead and com- 
 mand both the opinion and intereft of the 
 beft cuftomers : Such goods as would give 
 that preference to him, would of courfe give 
 the command in price to thofe who fupplied 
 him ; for though the Cheefe they now make, 
 may at prefent fupport their own good opi- 
 nion, yet, when they come to find, that they 
 have improved in fo great a degree, as to en- 
 able them to fee excellence, where they only 
 faw ufefulnefs, and blooming beauty, where 
 only mediocrity appeared ; Ambition and 
 Intereft, their bofpm friends, will point out 
 a new road to them, in which they will trar 
 vel, not only as fwift and profperpus, as their 
 rival neighbours, but will not leave them in 
 an eafy and compofed ftate, till they have out 
 gone them. In this happy track I confefs I 
 
 ftiould 
 
(77) 
 
 {liould be glad to meet many of my old friends 
 and neighbours, in whofe fervice I have 
 laboured many a long day ; and fo far as my 
 abilities will fupport me,,fliOuld be glad to be 
 their conductor : but whether in my prefent 
 purfuit, I may be fo happy as to fhew them 
 the right road, is very uncertain. If by o- 
 pening theij: Ideas afrefli, fliewing them 
 where Improvements may be looked for, 
 and giving them fome convincing circum- 
 ftances, where fuch truths appear, they may 
 be led to look farther to find better, I (liail 
 hope they are in a fair way to prevail. Some 
 fev-'' circumftances they perhaps may ex- 
 peti, to convince, and fome frefh out-lines 
 to extend the Ideas I have fet on float. I 
 •will give you in a few inftances, the way I 
 came firil to be moved in this purfuit. 
 
 The firfl that alarmed my Ideas, concern- 
 ingr the caufe of fweet, unfettled and ill- 
 flavoured Cheefe was, I was once going 
 by a houfe, I knew was notorious for as bad 
 a Dairy as I ever met with, the Dairy-wo- 
 man faw me, and faid, won't you call and 
 look at my Cheefe, I am fure tis as good as 
 
 mv 
 
( 78 ) 
 my neighbour T — s, which you have been 
 buying, I replied I fear not ; come in then 
 and fee, (he faid ; as foon as I came into 
 the Dairy-chamber, I faw, and told her it 
 would not fuit me; why not, (he replied, I 
 am fure 'tis every drop New-Milk, and no- 
 body can take more pains with it, nor work 
 harder at it than I do. On looking to the 
 farther fide of the room, I perceived a 
 Cheefe that was very blooming in appear- 
 ance, handfome in fhape, well-coated, firm, 
 fat, and much larger than the reft. I. faid, 
 pray how came that Cheefe there — I Ihould 
 be glad to know the Hiftory of it ; why truly" 
 faid (he 'tis a ftrange one. I replied if you 
 will make fuch Cheefe as that, it would be 
 worth five fhillings, or even ten fliillings a 
 hundred weight, more than the reft; fays 
 fhe, one night when I had rendled my Milk, 
 a perfon came running to me, and faid, 
 neighbour T — is groaning and you muft 
 come immediat/cly ; I faid to a raw wench I 
 had to help me, now be fure you dont touch 
 this Cheefe till I come back, I will be fure to 
 come to you when I fee how neighbour T — ■ 
 is ; but it happened flie was tvorfe than I ex- 
 
 pe6led. 
 
(79) 
 pc6led, and I could not leave her till after 
 midnight. I faid, my Cheefe will be fpoiled^ 
 but the poor Woman fhall not be loft for a 
 Cheefe; when I came home I found it not 
 fo bad as I expe61ed, put it into the Vat 
 in a hurry, faying, it may poliibly make a 
 Cheefe that will do for ourfelves, but I 
 little thouo;ht it would ever be a faleable 
 Cheefe; — well now — faid I, and is not this 
 Cheefe a proper leflbn to you ? dont you 
 thereby plainly fee that you have made the 
 reft too quick — why yes — faid (lie, it might, 
 if I had thought at all — but I declare, I 
 never once thous^ht about it — Profound ftu- 
 pidity I thought I to myfelf, and left her — ■ 
 however, this plainly convinced me that 
 Cheefe in general was made too much in 
 a hurry, and often when I came to a Dairy 
 where the fame complaint prevailed, I told 
 them this ftory, and it frequently had the 
 good effeft, to produce good Cheefe in the 
 lieu of bad, by • giving more time to the 
 Milk in earninof. 
 
 o 
 
 To corroborate with this ftory alfo, my 
 ©wn opinion, that good Cheefe may be 
 
 made 
 
( 8o ) 
 
 made by a fls.ilful Dairy-woman in any place, 
 or on any land ; there now lives in the fame 
 farm, where this old woman did, a perfon 
 who makes, without exception, as good a 
 Dairy of Cheefe, in every point, as I ever 
 met with in any country; I have had this 
 Dairy, at a Fair at a diftance for many 
 years, and two or three people were gene- 
 rally at llrife to have it, and it commonly 
 happen'd that it was made a point of by 
 Buyers, that if I would let them have that 
 Dairy, they would buy their whole quantity 
 of me, fo that it generally was the caufe of 
 my felling three or four other Dairys along 
 with it. Next, to fhew that there are many 
 Dairy-women do not make fo much Cheefe 
 from the fame Milk, or near it, as they might, 
 or ought to do ; on the evening of a very 
 hot day, I went through a Farm-yard, and 
 was much pleafed to fee as line a Dairy of 
 twenty Cows as I had feen for a long time, 
 on going into the Dairy-chamber, to my 
 great furprize, I found a poor parcel of very 
 lean, hungry looked, ill fhaped, bad tailed, 
 hove, and Whey-fpring Cheefe, — I faid to 
 the Dairy-woman, certainly this is not all 
 
 the 
 
(8i), 
 
 the Cheefe you have made from the fine 
 Dairy of Cattle I faw in your yard ! It really 
 is, faid file, except the few that are not come 
 out of the Dairy. I have been foill for the 
 laft two or three months, I could not pof- 
 fibly be amongfl; it, and I find my maids 
 know very little of the matter. It is a poor 
 parcel, and I am afcamed to fee it ; I re- 
 plied your fervant takes a wrong method in 
 making Cheefe ; I will engage to tell you 
 how you fnall make two Cheefes where you 
 now make one, or one Cheefe as large again; 
 that difference, ftruck her much ; ifyouv/ill 
 (lie faid, I will try it, and this very even- 
 ing — Then, faid I, — as the weather is hot, 
 take three or four quarts of frefii fpring 
 Water, or in fuch quantity till you find 
 your Milk is what you may properly call 
 Milk-warm, then, put two or three hand- 
 fuls of Salt into it, — after that put your 
 Runnet into it, and let it ftand an hour and 
 half before you fi.ir it, if 'tis two hours it 
 will be better, and you will be fuve to have 
 more Cheefe, in that time, the Curd will in- 
 cline to fink eafily to the bottom of your 
 Tub, then colleft and gather your Curd, — 
 
 G ' let 
 
( 82 ) 
 
 let it ftand one quarter of a hour to fettle, 
 then Vat it, and put it into your Prefs ; 
 let it ftand in the Prefs two or three 
 meals, turning it in the Prefs once between 
 the firfl: meals, and at each meal after — 
 Ihe followed my advice precifely, the Milk 
 being at reft before I left the houfe. Some 
 time after, I enquired of her how my ad- 
 vice fucceeded ; fhe faid quite well, and I am 
 convinced we had not made half the Cheefe 
 we ought to have done. But obferved, their 
 Pigs had been found to thrive in a furpriz- 
 ing manner, and well they might, after hav- 
 ing had more than half the produce of the 
 Dairy. 
 
 I once met with a young Dairy-woman at 
 a Fair ; who had a lot of Cheefe unfold, 
 after almoft every Dairy in the Yard it ftood 
 in was difpofed of; flie afked me to buy 
 her Cheefe, having bought fome adjoining 
 Dairys ; I objefted, faying I do not like it, 
 fhe feemed rather furpriz'd, faying, I am 
 fure lis made of as good Milk and- as well 
 took care of as any of my neighbours that 
 you have bought, I told her the method 
 
 file 
 
(83) 
 flie took in making the Cheefe was wrono-, 
 fhe feemed quite defirous to improve it if (he 
 knew how. I defired her to follow the 
 method defcribed above, exaftly, which fhe 
 promifed to do, but obferved it was fo con- 
 trary to what (he had ever heard of, (lie 
 fhould be furprized if it made good Cheefe. 
 I faid the Cheefe you have here is very bad, 
 the way to make good Cheefe muft be con- 
 trary to that in vWiich this was made, for 
 the like reafon as when a perfon is in a 
 burning fever, cooling medicines are ap- 
 plied to reftore him ; when very chill, a 
 v/arming remedy will have effetl: — fhe wifh'd 
 to know what were the faults of her Cheefe; 
 I told her it was very loofe, fweet, or ill- 
 tafled ; that rather difpleafed her, and fhe 
 feemed to miftrufl my knowing any thino- 
 of the matter — faying — it is not fweet — how 
 can ycu poffibly know that never tailed it, 
 I told her Cheefe of that countenance al- 
 ways was fweet. I put my tafler into 
 one and gave it her to tafte, me acknow- 
 ledged it was very rank, but wondered how 
 I could know it was fo — I perceived the 
 Cheefe of an unfettled nature, that I had 
 
 G2 not 
 
( 84 ) 
 
 not a doubt the Milk had been carried in 
 Churns or Barrels, I faid I imagine your 
 Dairy -ground is fome did a nee from your 
 Iloufe, do you milk your Cows in the field 
 or drive them home, fhe faid fometimes the 
 latter, but generally the former, and brought 
 the Milk home on Horfe-back. I told her 
 how difficult it was to make grood Cheefe of 
 Milk carried in that way ; (lie faid I find you 
 know where I live, I replied I dont know 
 fo much as the County you live in, (he feem- 
 ed quite aflonifh'd ; I faw a hufky dry coated 
 Cheefe on the top of one of the heaps, that 
 had dry cracks in it; I faid, I fuppofe you 
 remember how that Cheefe was made ; (he 
 anfwered in the affirmative, when you made 
 that Cheefe, I faid, you had referved fome 
 Curd from the meal before, and put into 
 the other Curd, next meal, which having 
 been rendled too hot would not join toge- 
 ther, as I will fliew you by the different 
 Curds in the Cheefe, which I did in my taf- 
 ter, the white looking Curd being the old 
 Curd which caufed the cracks, and the yeU 
 low the Nevv^-Milk, ( and you may always 
 obferve a mixture of that kind where Curd is 
 
 kept 
 
(85) 
 kept from the lall: meal, appearing marbled 
 and cutting chifelly ) — She acknowledged 
 that Cheefe was made in the manner I de- 
 fcribed, feemed very thankful for my advice, 
 and purfued it very nearly the next Summer, 
 when (lie produced at the fame Fair the fol- 
 lowing Year a Dairy of Cheefe with very fev/ 
 faults ; I pointed them out to her, told her 
 how to remedy them, as in the rules before 
 defcribed; (lie thanked me, and the next 
 Year with great plcafure (liewed me an ex- 
 ceeeding good parcel of Cheefe. — A near re- 
 lation of mine, who kept a Butter Dairy, 
 was defirous of making Cheefe, and faid to 
 me, I am entirely ignorant hov/ to proceed, 
 but if you will point out the right method, I 
 will exa611y follow it, I gave lier the fame 
 direction as to the former Dairy-woman, (lie 
 followed it, and I am certain no one can 
 make nicer, or fatter well tailed Cheefe than 
 fl:ie did, being one Day faying how good her 
 Cheefe proved, obferved (lie had one Cheefe, 
 then cut, that was jointed and blue-pared, 
 and wifli'd to know the caufe of it ; I examin- 
 ed it, and found it muft be caufed by flip- 
 curd ; file faid (lie never altered, or fi:iortened 
 
 G 3 the 
 
(86) 
 the Time given for the coming of the Milk 
 after it was rendled: on ruminating the caufe, 
 I faid, do you put your bowl in the Tub when 
 the Runnet is in ? She replied always ; do 
 you ever find anydifFerence in the Curd un- 
 der the Bowl from the red, on removing the 
 Bowl ? — Sometimes I perceive the Curd un- 
 der the Eovv'l of a fmooth flippery nature, 
 and when I have tried to get it folid, I never 
 could, it always dipt through my fingers, and 
 fom.e of it would fwim in the AVhey when 
 the other was folid, which I always took 
 care to break as fm.all as flour, among the 
 other Curd — I faid is the Bowl beinsf there 
 of any ufe ? She did not know that it was; 
 fhe took it away and had no jointed Cheefe 
 after, in her Dairy; which plainly convinc- 
 ed me that the Air under the Bowl prevent- 
 ed the Curd .from coming in the fame Time 
 as the reft, and that the fmall quantity of 
 flip-curd under it, was the fole caufe of the 
 joints that appeared, for there was not an Eye 
 in the Cheefe, owing to its being broke fo 
 fmall, which if any of the flip-curd had been 
 left in bits of any fize, would have caufed 
 Eyes larger or fmaller in the Cheefe, but now 
 
 it 
 
(8; ) 
 itdiflblvedin the form, and manner before de- 
 fcribed, in jointed Cheefe ; it is a general 
 praftice with Dairy-women to put the Bowl 
 in the Milk when the Runnetis put in, and 
 leave it in till the Cheefe is come ; I have 
 frequently allied the reafon for it, and the 
 general anfwer was, that by taking the Bowl 
 out, they might know when the Cheefe Vv^as 
 come ; which will be much better known by 
 putting the Bowl the contrary way, or the 
 hollow part upwards inilead of being downr 
 vrards, for there is often (lip-curd collefts 
 under the Bowl when put downwards and 
 that makes your Cheefe Whey-fpring, or 
 Eyey, and for that reafon the Bowl had 
 much better not be put in at all, efpecially 
 in Cheefe that is funk, and not broke, as then 
 the fiip-curd is fure to caufe VVhey-lprings. — 
 Another relation, being pleafed with her 
 Sifter fucceeding fo well, followed exatlly 
 the fame method, having wrote down every 
 particular, and her Cheefe was remarkably 
 line and good. Thefe, and fuch like inftan- 
 ces convince me that good Cheefe m.ay be 
 made by rule, or regular method, on any 
 Land, providing nothing very hngular pre- 
 
 G 4 vent§ 
 
(88) 
 
 vents, as from noxious weeds, plants, &c. or 
 diflempered Cattle. It is often obferved 
 poor Land makes the beft Cheefe ; to thofe 
 who are fond of mild Cheefe, it very often 
 does, the Milk being weaker or thinner, is 
 fooner collefted into Curd, than rich Milk, 
 by which means it is often completely fit to 
 fmk or gather fooner, and has many chances 
 of making good Cheefe by that means, or in 
 the fame time allowed, than from better 
 Milk, which will not become good Curd in 
 the fame time that is given for the weaker 
 Milk ; for if the Curd is not folid and good, 
 no art can make good Cheefe of it. But, if 
 rich paflure, good feeding Land, being old 
 Turf, has proper time given it to make good 
 Curd, and the Cheefe is well taken care of 
 after, I always find the richer Grafs makes 
 the beft Cheefe and more of it. To con- 
 firm my Opinion, that breaking Cheefe in 
 the Curd is a needlefs and exceeding wafte- 
 ful method ; being lately at a friend's houfe 
 who keeps a few Cows only to make Butter 
 and Cheefe for their own ufe, and that of 
 a few friends, the Gentlewoman faid to me, 
 I could wifli to know the bell method of 
 
 jnaking 
 
(89) 
 
 making fine Cheefe, ( having met with fuch 
 at my relations, before mentioned ) and de- 
 fired my direftions ; and faid their Cheefe 
 was apt to be a good while in coming when 
 in the Tub, their pafture being rich old 
 Turf. I told them to give it full two hours, 
 recommended putting fait in the Milk as be- 
 fore, prefcribed, which was done, and to 
 fink the Curd inftead of breaking it ; after 
 having a long knife made from a lath, cut the 
 Curd from top to bottom, crofling it many 
 times, by which means the Whey feparates 
 readily, then get a fieve and there with you 
 will prefs down the Curd with great eafe. 
 Having fettled the Curd well, and let it fi;and 
 a quarter of an hour to drain, having laded 
 ail the Whey out, it became quite folid — 
 then the Dairy-maid cut it in flices and 
 work'd it into the Vat, without ever break- 
 ing the Curd at all ; with very little trouble, 
 and in a fliort time (he m.ade a complete 
 handfome Cheefe ; full one third part larger 
 than any they had before produced from the 
 fame Cows, and continued fo to do in fuc- 
 ceeeding days, the Whey being quite green, 
 which they could never bring it to be, v/hen 
 
 broke 
 
(90) 
 broke and gathered in the Tub ; and broke 
 in the Vat afterward, which method certain- 
 ly waftes a great deal of Cheefe and much 
 impoverilhes it by fqueezing the fat out in 
 breaking. 
 
 A friendly correfpondent, being a con- 
 fiderable dealer in Cheefe, knowing of my 
 intended publication, is fo kind as to favour 
 ine with his fentiments on fome particulars; 
 which, as fome of them coincide with my 
 own already defcribed, and one in particu- 
 lar, promifes great utility to very fmall 
 Dairys, and will be a confiderable means 
 to prevent four Cheefe, by pointing out a 
 method to preferve the Curd without hazard, 
 with his permiffion I lay it before my readers. 
 *' I have fome years been trying. to find out 
 *' the reafon why Cheefe frequently looks 
 " of a grey dirty appearance, and which is 
 " always attended with a (Irong difagreeable 
 " tafle, and from enquiries and obfervations 
 " I have made, I am clearly convinced it is 
 " owing to the Runnet being kept too long, 
 " and not being fweet when put into the 
 " Milk. It is often the cafe in fmall Dairys 
 
 «'in 
 
(91) 
 
 ' in order to make the Cheefe of a tolerable 
 ' full fize, to make it but once a day, and in 
 •' hot Weather it is almoft impoiTible to pre- 
 ' vent one meal being four, which mufl in- 
 ' evitably fpoil the Cheefe. I beg leave to 
 ' inform you of a method pra61ifed with 
 ' good fuccefs. A friend of mine who was 
 
 • a Farmer's Daughter, and had been ufed 
 ' to a Dairy, marrying a perfon of a different 
 •' profeffion, they kept one Cow^ to give Milk 
 ' for the family, which being fmall (lie could 
 ' not ufe all the Milk ; (lie then tried to 
 ' make Cheefe of the furplus, and made 
 •' tolerable fized Cheefes, perhaps [e\'cn or 
 ' eight pounds each, in the following man- 
 •' ner ; when the ^\'eather was warm, (lie put 
 ' Runnet tcf the Milk as oft as (he found it 
 ' neceffary, once or twice a day, vdiile it 
 ' was fweet ; having feparated the Curd from 
 •' the Whey, fhe put the Curd into a broad 
 ' fliallov/ Tub, iuft coverins: it with cold 
 ' water, and (Infting the water two or three 
 ' tunes a day as fne thought neceffary, and 
 
 • thus kept the different parcels of Curd, 
 
 • till (he had enough to fill her Vat, by 
 ' which means, fne made exceeding good 
 
 *' Cheefe 
 
(92) 
 
 " Cheefe. Some good Dairy-women, I think 
 " often err in the manner of breaking their 
 " Curd ; tho' they make good Cheefe, they 
 " might make better and more of it, if they 
 *• did not fqueeze out fo much of the fat 
 " in breaking ; the V/hey that firft runs from 
 *' the Curd is always the thinneft, and was 
 *' that thin part firfl feparated, before the 
 " Curd was much broke, it would certain- 
 " ]y leave the Cream in the Cheefe, which 
 ** would but little of it fqueeze out in put- 
 " ting in the Vat, bat when it is broke fo 
 " very fmali amongfl the Vv^hcy the rich" 
 " parts are fqueezed amongil the thin Whey 
 *' and carried away with it. I knov/ an in- 
 " fiance or two myfelf, of perfons who I 
 " firmly believe made their Cheefe of real 
 *' New- Milk, yet broke their Curd fo much 
 •' that their Cheefe was not fo good as I have 
 **' had two meal Cheefe. I think the method 
 '' ufed in Norfolk and Suffolk to feparate the 
 " Whey from the Curd, is much preferable 
 '' to that ufed in WarzoickJJiire, or Leicejler- 
 ^^ /Jure ; when they think the Milk is fuf- 
 " ficiently curdled, they lay a drainer into 
 " a bafl'.et ( made for the purpofe, ) which 
 
 ^* they 
 
( 93 ) 
 " they put the Curd into and let it fland to 
 '•' drain for a time, before they break the 
 " Curd." In regard to my friend's opinion 
 concerning what he calls grey, dirty look- 
 ing Cheefe, 'tis often caufed by foul Run- 
 net, but I am of opinion it more often hap- 
 pens v/hen Cows have been drenched, either 
 for the yellows or other complaints ; and it 
 will look of that countenance and get in- 
 fipid, or ill tailed when much frozen, as I 
 have more than once had Cheefe in my own 
 poileffion turn of that dark putrid colour 
 after being much froze, that I knew was not 
 fo before it was afiTecled by froft. 
 
 Being lately in company with a Dairy- 
 man at a diltance, talkins^ about Cheefe- 
 making, he faid he never ufed a Cheefe-prefs, 
 and faid that his Cheefe got hard as foon, 
 and kept as well as thofe that ufed a Prefs, 
 the method he ufed is, to make the Cheefe 
 in a hoop (being chiefly thickidi flcim Cheefe, 
 tho' he faid he often made New-Milk Cheefe 
 in the fame w^ay ) that was open at top 
 and bottom, w^hich being filled with Curd, 
 and well fqueezed into it, was then fet upon 
 
 a 
 
( 94 ) 
 
 a board that had holes bored in it, the hoop 
 alfo being bored and cover'd with a board 
 which was bored alfo, putting a moderate 
 weight upon the board to fettle the Cheefe ; 
 turning it upfide down, twice a day till it 
 got ftiff, and it anfwered very well. When 
 Curd is firm, it will fettle and get hard with 
 very little crufliing, it is the flip Curd that is 
 in it, that makes it require fo much prefling 
 to fettle it, this method will be very ufeful 
 in very fmall Dairys that have no Prefs. 
 
 Clover, or other artificial Grafs, which 
 generally contains more Air than common 
 Grafs, requires full time in bringing the 
 Cheefe; in its firfh operation, it fhould not 
 be expofed to too much heat, immediately 
 after it is made, as the greater the quantity 
 of Air that remains in the Cheefe, the more 
 efFeft heat will have upon it, by caufing it 
 to heave, or fplit when the Air becomes ra- 
 rified. Cheefe made from Clover is rather 
 more difficult to make, to even the beft of 
 Dairy-women, but I have feen very good 
 found Dairys of fliout, full flavour'd Cheefe 
 made from Clover, efpecially when a good 
 
 deal 
 
(95) 
 deal of time is allowed to bring the Cheefe, 
 and care is taken not to let it lye too hot, 
 after it begins to get dry. It is always 
 hurtful to Cheefe to lye too near tiles in 
 hot weather. Dairys are fubje6l to damage 
 by noxious, or poifonous plants, roots, or 
 trees : Where Cows are fed in paftures much 
 additled to wild-garlick, or cow-garlick, 
 ramfons, or w^ild chives, I have often per- 
 ceived the rank tafte of the Herb in the 
 Cheefe. Many people are at a fault to know 
 the caufe of bitter Cheefe; which I have 
 often obferved is m.oft prevalent from poor, 
 or moderate light Land, and have frequent- 
 ly taken notice that where Cliecfe is bitter, 
 their paflure is much addifted to black plan- 
 tain, ribbed Grafs, or cock plant, may weed, 
 dandilion, efpecially the rough leaved fort; 
 centaury — arfmart or lake-weed, tanfey, 
 w^ormwood, meadow fweet, &c. — I take yar- 
 row to be an ill favoured Plant for Cheefe, 
 where it prevails much in Land, being of a 
 very faint nature, tho' Sheep are faid to be 
 very fond of it, — Kem-lock — hen-bane — ■ 
 night-fliade, cow-bane, cow -weed, water- 
 wort, kex, drop-wort, yew-tree, box, and 
 
 mod 
 
(96) 
 moft other ever-greens certainly are noxious 
 and very hurtful. * I have often obferved in 
 riding thro' Dairy-farms, how little attention 
 is paid to pafturage, Farmers frequently 
 fuffering many forts of known noxious Plants 
 or Weeds to flourifh in them, without any 
 concern to extirpate or caft them out, or 
 of having the leaft thought of encouraging, 
 or propogating fuch as are falutary or cheer- 
 ing to Cattle ; I have often heard the remark 
 made by Farmers that there is an inflinft 
 in Cattle that direfts them to avoid noxious 
 Plants, and even direfts nature to apply 
 many as remedies in various complaints ; 
 we often read of wild Beafls, Serpents, &c. 
 that are governed by fuch inftintl. — But 
 it often happens that in very dry feafons, 
 paftures are fo very fhort that Cattle are 
 obliged to eat any thing that is green to 
 keep them alive, and 'tis well known they 
 often do clear up every thing before them, 
 and many forts of Plants that they w^ill not 
 touch at other times; I have often obferved 
 that in fuch feafons. Cattle are very much 
 
 fubje6l 
 
 * A defcription of noxious Plants, will be found at the 
 €nd of the Book, 
 
(97 ) 
 fubjccl to violent diforders; I have knov/n 
 many die, without tlie owners, or cow-leech 
 being at all able to account for the caufe; 
 and frequently taken notice that Cattle dy- 
 ing fo fuddenly are much fubjecl to fwell 
 greatly, and often in the fame Dairy that 
 many have died apparently from the fame 
 caufe, and that fuch complaints are mod 
 prevalent in the Months o^ July and Augufl, 
 when poifonous Plants are in full vigour; 
 I remember one Perfon who had lofl feveral 
 Cows, who was a judicious perfon in Farm- 
 ing affairs, obferve, that undigefted Plants 
 were found in their Stomachs, or Maws 
 when opened, although they had not eat any 
 vegetable food for two or three days, v/hich 
 made him fufpeft they were poifonous, and 
 'tis very natural to form fuch an Idea. 
 
 There is no branch in Hufbandry feems 
 of more importance, or gives a larger field 
 for improvement than the conducting and 
 managing of Dairy-Farms ; as a great fhare 
 of the health, as well as the lives of the 
 human fpecies, are in a confiderable degree 
 dependent, on the health and good con- 
 
 H dition 
 
(98) 
 
 dition of Milch Cows. Milk being a veget- 
 able juice, or that yields a nourifliment part- 
 ly vegetable and partly animalized, partak- 
 ing more or lefs, of the good or bad qualities 
 of Plants on which the Cow feeds — Milk, 
 in its produce of Cream, Butter, Cheefe and 
 many of our luxuries, is a conilituent part 
 of our daily food, through every ftage of 
 Life, confequently great care ought to be 
 taken, with refpe6l to the food of Animals, 
 who furnifh us with fo great, and necefTary a 
 part of our fuflenance; I have always thought 
 fome knowledge in the ufe of Plants, a very 
 agreeable amufement, and it would certain- 
 ly have been much more my ftudy, had I 
 thought of ever having fuch an opportunity 
 of making it ufeful. Such as have fallen 
 under my knowledge I have here endeavour- 
 ed to defcribe, in which I acknowledge to 
 have received much help from a late in- 
 genious publication of Dr. Withering on 
 Botany, ( being the firfl: I ever met with in 
 Englifh after the Linnaean Syftem, ) which 
 I think a work of great merit. As the 
 Dairy-man, or Farmer, becomes more in- 
 formed of the nature of noxious Plants, he 
 
 will 
 
(99) 
 will furely think irworth his while to try to 
 get rid of them, by rooting them out ; and" as 
 it is well known that Cows are very much 
 fubjeft to fcowring, and flatulent or windy 
 diforders, it may be very well worth his while 
 to fow or plant in his paflures and hedges, 
 fuch herbs in proper quantities as are found 
 to be the belt remedies for thefe and fuch 
 other complaints which Cattle are mofl in- 
 cident to. Among many that might be men- 
 tioned the following herbs are very falutary, 
 (and if there is fuch an inftinft in Cattle 
 asfome fuppofe, they will know how to cull 
 ■ the beft, ) lovage, agrimony, chervil, carra- 
 way, cummin, mint, bazil, hyfibp, rue, an- 
 gelica, pepper-mint, penny-royal, thyme, 
 marjoram, &c. I fliould think a very proper 
 time to fow, or plant them, would be when 
 you fet, or plant hedges, or when plafhed, 
 or the banks frefh made up, or in paflures 
 where Ant-hills are dug up and carried a- 
 way, to fow them in the places they are dug 
 from ; It mud certainly be an improvement 
 of the firfl kind, to clear a Farm of all forts 
 of noxious and poifonous Plants and Weeds, 
 and flocking them with fuch as are health- 
 
 H z ful 
 
( loo ) 
 ful falutary and medicinal. — Trefoil & white 
 Clover are efleemed exceeding good Grafles 
 for producing Milk. But the higheft en- 
 comium is given to Saintfoin Grafs, as being 
 f'jperior to any other. — An EJfex Farmer 
 who is a correfpondent in the Bath Society 
 for promoting /Vgriculture, thus defcribes it; 
 " As the roots flrike deep in our chalky 
 " foil, this plant is not liable to be fo much 
 ** injured by drought as other Grafles whofe 
 " fibres fhoot horizontallv and lie near the 
 *' furface, the quantity of Hay produced is 
 " greater, and better in quality than any 
 *^ other, but there is one advantage attends 
 " this Grafs, which renders it fuperior to 
 *" any, and that arifes from feeding it with 
 •' Milch Cows, the prodigious increafe of 
 *' Milk which it makes is aflonifhing, being 
 " near double that produced by any other 
 " food. The Milk is alfo better and yields 
 " more Cream than any other ; I give you 
 ** this information from my own obfervation, 
 *' confirmed by long experience, and if Far- 
 *' mers would make trial they would find 
 " their account in it far more than they 
 
 " expecl. " 
 
 It 
 
( '01 ) 
 
 It is a pretty general opinion, that Saint- 
 foin thrives only on np-lands, that lie near 
 a rock, lime-ftone, chalk or flrong gravel ; 
 the reafon given is, the roots ftrike fo deep 
 in the Earth, that unlefs it meets a check 
 it feldom flourifhes. That fuch Land, be- 
 ing rocky, or very (hallow hungry foil that 
 will fcarce bear any other forts of Grafs 
 does produce great crops of Saintfoin, I have 
 many times obferved in different Counties ; 
 but as I meet with various Authors who fay, 
 that notw^ithftanding that advantage there is 
 in it, preferable to any other Grafs, yet it 
 always thrives bed in a rich good foil, which 
 makes me imagine it has feidom had a fair 
 trial, and if the advantage as a Dairy Grafs 
 is fo great, it is highly worth the Dairy- 
 man's notice. 
 
 We find many Farmers very induftrious 
 to improve their breed of Cattle, and fet 
 much ftore on blood and fafliion. The 
 Dairy-man's chief concern fhould be to have 
 Cows with good Bags, or Udders; that 
 yield a quantity of Milk ; and it is well 
 known, by perfons who keep but one or 
 
 H3 two 
 
( 102 ) 
 
 two Cows, that there is a material difference 
 in the richnefs of Milk in Cows, and that 
 when they fet up the Milk of different Cows, 
 they find, one (hall yield a much larger 
 quantity of Cream than another ; and many 
 are known not only to yield more Milk, but 
 even much better than the Cow which gives 
 lefs ; this is an ufeful remark to a Dairy- 
 man as the quantity of rich Milk is the fup- 
 port of his undertaking, and muff in the 
 end pay more than the fine form of Cattle, 
 which may be of more confequence to the 
 feeding Grazier ; and great care fhould be 
 taken that the Cows are Milked clean, as 
 many good Cows are fpoiled by fuffering 
 'Milk to remain in the Udder ; which will 
 caufe the Cow daily to give lefs and lefs, till 
 at length flie will become dry before the pro- 
 per time, and will be very apt to give but 
 little Milk the next feafon. It is obferved 
 in Fairs, that the people from Wiltfliire and 
 other Dairy Counties, who buy Cows, al- 
 ways make ^ large bag in a Milking Cow, 
 their firft obje6l, and thofe that buy Cattle 
 for feeding pay very little regard to it, pre- 
 fering a good carcafe ; as Dairy-men are ge- 
 nerally 
 
( 103 ) 
 -nerally the breeders of Calves, it fliould be 
 their firftobjeft, to breed from Cows, which 
 produce the beft and largefl: quantity of 
 Milk, and fupply their own Dairy with that 
 breed. I have often heard Dairy-men re- 
 mark, that Cows are apt to give more Milk 
 on the land they are bred upon, than others 
 who come from a diftant foil. I would al- 
 ways recommend to every Dairy-man, 
 wherever it is in his power, to convey run- 
 ning dreams into his Dairy-ground, — to en- 
 courage his Cows to frequent fcowers in 
 Brooks, or running Streams; Cows certainly 
 like clear Water beft, and it always pro- 
 duces moft Milk ; and keeping them cool, 
 the Milk is much eafier made into Cheefe, 
 or Butter. When Cheefe goes from the 
 Prefs, let it be kept in as warm a ftate as you 
 can, till it has had a fweat, or is got pretty 
 regularly dry, and ftiffifli : It is warmth that 
 makes Cheefe ripe, improves the colour, and 
 caufes Cheefe to cut flakey, the fureft fign 
 of excellent quality; w^hi^h is very clear to 
 thofe who know the ^reat difference there 
 is in Cheefe that has gone by Sea in the Sum- 
 mer-time to London, or any diftant Port on 
 H 4 our 
 
( 104 ) 
 
 our Coaft, having been thoroughly heated on 
 Ship board, by the heat of the Seafon, and 
 fuch large quantities being in the fame apart- 
 ment. I dare fay any Perfon who has eat 
 Cheefe in the fined Dairys in Chcjhire, and 
 alfo in a Tavern in London, when the fame 
 fort of Cheefe has undergone the heat of a 
 Ship, and afterwards been laid in a Wine- 
 cellar to cool gradually, and make it Mellow, 
 ( which is allowed to be the bed fituation for 
 finifliing Cheefe, it not being expofed to 
 harfh VVinds, or chilling Air, ) fuch Perfon 
 mufl allow the Warmth it has received, im- 
 proves the flavor and richnefs oi the Cheefe 
 to a fuperlative degree. I v/ould recom- 
 mend, where it can be avoided, that hard 
 Cheefe is not kept in the fame Room 
 with the foft, as a dampnefs that arifes from 
 the new moift Cheefe, is a detriment to the 
 improving ftate the hard Cheefe is getting 
 into, making it very apt to chill, and get 
 thick-coated, an(} often fpotted ; in fome 
 meafure there is an analogy with the fine 
 flavoured Fruit, this being the Seafon that 
 Cheefe may be fuppofed to come to its fla- 
 vor, and the foul damp that falls from the 
 
 exhala- 
 
( i<^5 ) 
 exhalation of the foft Cheefe greatly re- 
 tards it, and being deprived of a chearing 
 Warmth, will never become excellent. 
 Cheefe never taftes agreeably till it has had 
 a fweat, fuch as is always kept in a cold 
 ftate eats chill, flat-tafted and infipid ; a 
 fouth afpeft, or a Room over a Kitchen- 
 fire is much beft, till Cheefe is got tollera- 
 bly hard and had a fweat ; a cool (hady 
 Room, or even a Plafler-floor is beft after 
 it has had a fweat, till fuch Time as the 
 Weather gets too cool. Cheefe very fel- 
 dom heaves or gets puffy after it has had 
 a fweat and got cool again ; the fat that 
 melts with heat, clofes the pores of Cheefe 
 made open by harfh Air, and keeps it mel- 
 low afterwards. The fweat of Cheefe 
 fhould not be rubbed off, or fcraped off, un- 
 lefs it has fweat to a violent degree, as it 
 keeps the Cheefe mellow and always im- 
 proves the flavour. To have every excel- 
 lence it muft have every advantage. — In 
 Wilts, Gloucejlerjhire, and fome part of 
 WarwickjOiire, moft people wafn their Cheefe, 
 putting it in a little warm Water or Whey 
 to foften the fwarthy-coat occafioned by the 
 
 Cheefe 
 
( loS ) 
 
 Cheefe-cloth, or not being rubbed when it 
 begins to get coated ; then they rub it off 
 with a Brufli, and afterward lay it to dry, 
 or ,fweat before it is laid in the cooler 
 apartment ; many prefer rubbing it with a 
 hair-cloth, beginning with it when Cheefe 
 is fit to handle, and not wafn it. If Cheefe 
 is defigned for going by Sea, or for fpeedy 
 confumption, I think wafhing is preferable, 
 care being taken not to fend it off too 
 foft, as that expofes it to crack, then the 
 Fly takes it, and Maggots breeding in it 
 . damages your Cheefe. When Cheefe is de- 
 figned to be kept long in the Dairy, if kept 
 well cleaned, I prefer the other method, 
 as the coat preferves it, keeps it mellow 
 and improves the Flavor. Froft is very 
 detrimental to Cheefe if permitted to get 
 into it, efpecially, foft young Cheefe ; care 
 fhould be taken to keep the Windows clofe 
 in hard froiiy Weather ; many will cover it 
 with ( and even lay it in ) Peas-flraw in fe- 
 vere Seafons. I have known all the good 
 qualities of Cheefe annihilated or taken away, 
 by being Froft-bittcn when Young ; it is 
 apt to turn black as if made v/ith footy Milk, 
 
 and 
 
( 107 ) 
 and not have the leaft tafte of Sak, or any 
 relifh remain. It is a very common method 
 to fcald Cheefe, either in the Curd, or in 
 the Cheefe ; the former I quite difapprove, 
 the defis^n bein^ onlv to fettle the Curd 
 which has not had Time <^iven it to fnik 
 foHd in the Tub, which if done, will want 
 no Icalding; boiling Water, or boiling Whey 
 poured upon it will fet the Curd in fome 
 degree, and fix it hard, but then it always 
 leaves it Tough and Horny-coated, if it is 
 fcalded to any great degree ; more tiine taken 
 in bringing the Curd, and having the Milk 
 of a proper warmth, will render this whole 
 proceeding quite needlefs. People are only 
 feeking a remedy for a fault which they had 
 no fort of occafion to have been troubled 
 with. Scalding^ Cheefe after it has been in 
 the Prefs is of fome advantage to Cheefe 
 that is to go by Sea, that, only being to fet 
 the coat and toughen it, is not fo much ex- 
 pofed to bruifmg, and the heat of the Ship 
 recovers it again to its proper flate by re- 
 moving that toughnefs which fcalding gave 
 it ; but Cheefe for Country Trade, is hurt 
 jby fcalding, making it Tough and Hornv- 
 
 coatedc 
 
( >o8 ) 
 coated. If Cheefe gets too hard tliat has 
 been fcalded, the beft way to recover it, is 
 to lay it in a heap, four, five, or fix Cheefes 
 high, in a cool room, ilirring and removing 
 every Cheefe once in two or three Days, till 
 it is got mellow. In many Counties, as 
 Lincoln. Huntington, Bedford, &c. People 
 take very great pains to make bad Cheefe, if 
 a good Dairy-woman happens to come a- 
 mongft them that fells Cheefe for a much 
 greater Price than they can, yet they will fol- 
 low their own method; perhaps, fome few of 
 them at leafl, when they come to fee Dairy- 
 ing plainly delineated, may have fome in- 
 clination to alter their Plan, unlefs they 
 prefer bad Cheefe to good. 
 
 Many may wifli to know what is a pro- 
 per Size for Cheefe-Vats for Trade. For 
 Cheefe of the Gloucejier make, we reckon 
 that Vats — 15 Inches Wide by 2 ^ Inches 
 Deep to make Cheefe, Eleven to the Hun- 
 dred Weicrht. 
 
 1^ ~ Inches by 2- to make Tens. 
 
 16 Inches bv 2 4 to make Nines. 
 
 16 ^ Inches by 2 ^ to make Eights. 
 
 16 
 
( 109 ) 
 
 i6 1 Inches by 2 ^ to make Sevens, &c. 
 
 Since writing the account of the Maw-flvin, 
 I have heard of a Plant called the Runnet- 
 Plant ; it is the firft Time I ever heard the 
 Name of it or the leaft hint concerning it. 
 I am informed the yezos make all their 
 Cheefe with it; their Law not permitting 
 them to mingle Meat with Milk, which 
 term they apply to making Cheefe with 
 Maw-fldn, I have frequently feen Jew 
 Cheefe, but never faw any that I thought 
 good or toUerably fo, makes me imagine it 
 is the necefhty of principle only, that pro- 
 motes its Ufe, but as I am an entire Strang- 
 er to the procefs, (liall be greatly obliged 
 to any one who will favour me with any 
 particulars concerning it, with its qualities 
 and manner of Ufe.* 
 
 I am favourd with a Letter from a Friend 
 whofe veracity I can depend on, acquainting 
 me of another fpecies of Runnet-plant, ima- 
 gining my former information was not right, 
 and that the Dairy-plant was of a different 
 
 kind 
 
 * The Plant is defcrlbed amongft others at the end o( 
 this Book, 
 
(no) 
 
 kind to that I had defcribed — fending at the 
 fame time fome plants, for my infpeftion — 
 called fpear grafs, and alfo the method of 
 ufmg it, as praftifed by a very good Dairy- 
 woman in the County of Derby for many 
 Years, whofe Dairy was in the higheft credit 
 in the neighbourhood, where flie lived, hop- 
 ing the Public might receive benefit by the 
 publication of it, the receipt is as follows. — 
 Take Spear-grafs, and as much cold water 
 as will cover the Grafs, boil it over a flow 
 Fire for an hour, put to it fait in propor- 
 tion, of half a peck to fix gallons of Liquor, 
 then cover it up till cold, then fcrain it and 
 add three Maw-fldns to each gallon, let it 
 ftand nine or ten days, then bottle it, ufe 
 a table fpoonful for a Cheefe of fifteen or 
 {ixteen pounds ; but more or lefs may be 
 ufed at difcretion. From this receipt a ve- 
 ry ufeful remark may be made : I have fre- 
 quently enquired of Dairy -women who made 
 their Runnet for keeping, what quantity of 
 Skin they us'd, and have generally under- 
 flood it to be about two Skins to a gallon of 
 Water, but I have always thought that mull 
 be too little, here we find three Skins is 
 
 recom- 
 
recommended, even added to the deco61ion 
 of Spear-grafs, which muft certainly be a 
 powerful help to the Runnet; 'tis obferv'd 
 alfo in the receipt, that a table fpoon-full 
 may be ufed for a Cheefe of fifteen or fixteen 
 pounds, which I imagine mufl: be as much as 
 twelve or fourteen Co^v's Milk ; if even two 
 or three fpoon-fulls will do for that quantity 
 of Milk it muft be of a very powerful fer- 
 menting quality, and leads me to im.agine 
 that Runnet in general, is certainly made 
 too weak ; and that if by the above method, 
 or by the addition of fpices as recommended 
 by Mr. Hazard, a much ftronger Runnet is 
 made ; it muft greatly quicken the coagula- 
 tion and be a means of bringring^ the Cheefe 
 properly, in fliorter time than that in prefent 
 ufe, and might probably be fufficient if the 
 Milk ftand an hour, or at moft an hour and 
 half, which would fully reconcile my plan of 
 fmking Cheefe to thofe who may think the 
 only difficulty attending it, is requiring too 
 much time. 
 
 Spear-grafs is a very common plant, grows 
 chiefly on moift land, or by pit fides, often 
 
 in 
 
( 112 ) 
 
 in lanes, it is an upright ftem, inclin d to at 
 redifh brown, mixt with green, the leaves 
 are fpear-ftiaped growing up the Ilalk, a 
 bright yellow flower with five petals, of 
 the crow foot form, blollbms in May and 
 June; this is doubtlefs a good plant for im- 
 proving the Runnet, it being of a hot nature, 
 and having been ufed fo many Years with 
 good fuccefs is a great recommendation — ■ 
 but this cannot be the plant before defcrib- 
 €d to me, and which I have found in differ- 
 ent Authors, called yellow ladies bed-llraw, 
 goofe-grafs or Cheefe Renning, nor does the 
 Runnet made with it anfwer to the ends pro- 
 pofed in making Jezo Cheefe. 
 
 I Ihould imagine the beft time to colle6l 
 the Spear -grafs for making Runnet, muft be 
 when it is in full Flower, which may be very 
 apt to help the colour as well as give firm- 
 nefs to the Cheefe. I have not a doubt but 
 Runnet made with this plant, in the manner 
 above defcribed, will be a confiderable im- 
 provement in Cheefe-making, and (liould be 
 glad to hear of its having a fair trial, it ap- 
 pears to me to be the moil likely thing to 
 correa the mifchief caufed by Slip-curd. 
 
 Havinsj 
 
( "3 ) 
 
 Having now gone through the defign of 
 the work, and laid down fuch obfervations 
 on the principal concerns of Dairying, fo far 
 as relates to Cheefe-making, as occur to my 
 remembrance, I take my leave of it, hoping 
 in general it will be found ufeful and ex- 
 pedient, and before I conclude, earneftly 
 recommend it to fuch Dairy-women who 
 find any difficulty in their proceedings in 
 the bufinefs of Cheefe-making, or wifh to 
 improve their make of Cheefe, that they 
 will, well weigh every part of the fubjeft, 
 and make trial of the whole procefs, as 
 fiated in its different parts. As I am well 
 convinced, by repeated trials that if the plan 
 I have laid down is obferved with care, it 
 will not fail to make good Cheefe. And 
 though it may be objefted by many, the 
 length of time of the Milk (landing for Curd, 
 yet fo complete will the ftate of the Curd 
 be, that you will often times more than fave 
 that time in crufliing, as it will be finifhed 
 in half the time, that bad Curd will take, 
 and by the extra weight of Cheefe, that 
 time will give, will at length repay all your 
 trouble; I well know, many Dairy- vv^omen 
 
 I are 
 
■ ( 'M ) 
 
 are partial to fome particular method, or no- 
 ftrum of theirown, ortheir mothers, orneigh- 
 bour fuch a one who was a famous Dairy- 
 woman, as being preferable to all others, 
 in which they often fail of fuccefs, in lome 
 refpeft by having omitted to obferve the 
 exaft minutia of their praftice. As a very 
 fmall omiffion, in time, or method, fome- 
 times leads them into a labyrinth, which 
 they very rarely ever get out of, and caufes 
 them more vexation and perplexity, than if 
 they had never known any thing about it. 
 Or, if their's be a good method and very 
 prafticable, perhaps it is poffible there may 
 be a better, or eafier means of proceeding, 
 that will render their Plan quite needlefs. 
 
 I hope that thofe who wifh to improve 
 from my inflruRions, will give it a fair 
 Trial, if any at all ; they need not fay they 
 are left in tlie Dark in any part of it, as 
 every particular is made plain and moft of 
 them repeated, as precept upon precept, and 
 line upon line. Let them be particular 
 however in the main coi/cerns, fuch as the 
 proper warmth of the Milk, the goodnefs, 
 
 and 
 
( "5 ) 
 
 and ufe of the Maw- (kin, to give it Time 
 enough in the Tub, or Cheefe-pan, to keep 
 the Cheefe warm when young, and conl 
 afterwards ; then I think they will fcarce fail 
 of making good Cheefe. If they mean to 
 excel, and make fine Cheefe — and why 
 not? — Then I refer them to the more mi- 
 nute Obfervations of the Work, and I wifh 
 and hope, that they will find their Pains well 
 bellowed, and afford them both Comfort and 
 Profit. I doubt not but methods ufed in 
 different Counties vary a good deal. Some 
 perhaps may be pointed out that are prefer- 
 able to fome of mine, and if any Perfon will 
 be kind enough to point them out to me, or 
 fhew me where any thing has been omitted,* 
 or Error committed, if another Edition 
 fhould be called for, I (hall very willingly 
 communicate them to the Public. 
 
 I 2 ON 
 
 # 
 
 

 O N 
 
 BUTTER. 
 
 UTTER is an Article in very 
 general ufe, and numerous are the 
 people employed in making it; and 
 is in great efteem ; from obfervations I have 
 made, it admits of very little variation in 
 the method of preparing, which methods are 
 fo generally known, require very little com- 
 mentary upon them ; I profefs not to un- 
 derftand them, and therefore (hall fay very 
 little about it. What little I have remark- 
 ed in converfing with Dairy-women, is, that 
 care fhould be taken to fet up your Milk 
 when it is of a proper warmth — Milk- warm 
 is the bell;, regulated the fame as for ren- 
 dling Cheefe, applying a little cold Water 
 if too hot, and either warm Water or Milk 
 if too cold ; many think Water bed, faying, 
 it *5^ill throw up Cream fooner; to take 
 care the Uienfils it is fet up in, are exceed- 
 ing 
 
( "7 ) 
 ing clean — the utility of which I think is 
 clearly made appear by obferving the ef- 
 fe6l of a contrary remark in making Whey 
 Butter. — Indolence, finds out many ways 
 which Induftry never thought of. — Some 
 Butter- Women, whofe care is, more, to make 
 a large quantity, than regard the quality, 
 or flavour of Butter, will tell you, that four 
 Whey, yields more Cream than fweet, and 
 it immediately turns four, by putting it into 
 the Pans you poured the laft meal's Whey 
 from, without wafhing them. But in mak- 
 ing good Butter, great care muft be taken to 
 prevent the Cream's being four, or your 
 Butter w^ill be ill flavoured, and will keep 
 good but a very little time — That lead Pans 
 are preferred to every thing, in throwing up, 
 or rifmg the Cream from Milk, Not to let 
 the Milk ftand too long before it is fkimmed, 
 efpecially in hot weather. — If it mufi ffand ■ 
 two meals, it had better be fkimmed twice^ 
 than to let it fland the whole time for one 
 fkimming, as the Milk often turns four be- 
 fore the expiration of two meals; and if the 
 laft meal fhould change, you may then he 
 enabled to keep all the fw^eet Cream by it- 
 1 3 itfelf 
 
( ii8 ) 
 felf. — The lefs time the Cream (lands before 
 it is churned, the finer flavoured and Tweet- 
 er your Butter will be. 
 
 Nothing is more commendable in a Dairy- 
 maid than cleanlinefs, nor will any thing 
 caufe them to be more efleemed ; every one 
 v/ho perceives extream neatnefs in a Dairy, 
 cannot help wifliing to purchafe either But- 
 ter or Cheefe from fo clean and neat a place, 
 and would gladly give a higher price, rather 
 than be expofed to the chance of fluttilh 
 naftinefs, too common in many Dairys. It 
 is remarked by many Travellers, that in 
 the IJle of Wight, nothing is more pleaf- 
 ing than to fee the exceeding neatnefs of 
 their Dairys ; it very rarely goes unnoticed, 
 and to a delicate tafte, fcarce any thing af- 
 fords greater pleafure. 
 
 As Butter is become a very confiderable 
 Article of Trade, it is highly proper every 
 means fliould be rendered to make it as com- 
 plete and perfeft as poffible ; it is very dif- 
 ferent in regard to purchafers of large quan- 
 tities of Butter, who mult take lots as they 
 
 happen. 
 
( '19) 
 
 happen, and in which very often a confider- 
 able part of them are very inferior to what 
 they ought to be, and to buyers of frefh 
 Butter in Markets ; v/ho can fee and tafle 
 it before they buy, which is a caution to 
 the makers to have it well made, knowing 
 it will be infpetled before fold, thofe who 
 put it into Calks or Firkins, for diflant fale, 
 are apt not to be fo very careful about it. 
 I have heard frequent enquiry by Cheefe- 
 mono;ers, or dealers in Butter, v/hat is the 
 caufe of Salt Butter being fo fubjed to gef. 
 rank, ftrong tailed, or rancid, or what fome 
 people call a fifliy tafte, which is a very 
 great detriment to dealers in Butter, and 
 the caufe of the complaint much wants to 
 be known ; being well acquainted that the 
 complaint is very frequent, has often led 
 me to enquire into the caufe when an op- 
 portunity has offered, being lately converf- 
 ing with a perfon on the fubjecl, he faid 
 it was very common in Sujfotk & YorkJJiire, 
 to heat the Milk before it was fet up for 
 Cream, which is done in order to increafe 
 the quantity of Cream. It is well known 
 that every fat fubftance that is heated, will in 
 
 1 4 courfe 
 
( 120 ) 
 
 courfe of time turn rancid, or reezy, that when 
 Butter, of the lall year, or a year old, is in 
 the Cafl^ through the Summer, the heat will 
 affeft it, and fo far as the heat gets into it, 
 will reeze or become of a tallowy nature, fat 
 Bacon will reeze fo far as the fat melts; and 
 the heating of Milk muft certainly alter the 
 nature of it,_ and in courfe of time will caufe 
 the Butter to turn rancid, and ill tailed. 
 I have heard it obferved by a perfon who 
 is ufed to buy frefh Butter that was made of 
 heated, or clouted Cream, ( which is a me- 
 thod much ufed in fome parts of the South 
 of England ) that it is very apt to get ftrong 
 and will keep good but a very little time. 
 So that from all remarks I have been capa- 
 ble of making, it feems clear to me that the 
 badnefs or foulnefs of Butter, is chiefly ow- 
 ing to the Milk being heated, and is a hint 
 worth the enquiry of the public, efpecially 
 large dealers in Butter, in order that fome 
 method may be taken to prevent an evil 
 that is become fo very prevalent. 
 
 A friend who has been much ufed to Dairv- 
 ing, lately communicated to me a method to 
 
 give 
 
- (121) 
 
 give Winter made Butter, which is often 
 made from Fodder, either Hay or Straw, 
 the countenance and relifh of Summer But- 
 ter, made in the prime of the Seafon ; which 
 is done by taking the juice of carrots, being 
 bruifed, or pounded to a pulp & then prefs'd 
 or fqueezed out, putting it into the Cream 
 before Churn'd. And alfo, a method to 
 take off the difagreeable talle of Butter made 
 from Turnips, viz. let your Cream be v/arm- 
 ed and poured into a Tub or Pail of cold 
 Water, then fkim the Cream off the Water, 
 which will rife to the top, the fame as in 
 Milk, and by this means leave the foul tafle 
 behind it in the Water, this laft method will 
 much im.prove Whey Butter, taking off the 
 difagreeable fournefs that often attends it, 
 and by adding the juice of carrots as above, 
 will help its colour and give it an agreeable 
 relifli, and by this means you may fait Whey 
 Butter, down in pots, that will do very well 
 for pafle in Winter. In a very fenfible, and 
 praftical Effay printed in the third Volume 
 of the Bath Society's Letters and Papers on 
 Agriculture, &c. by Mr. Hazard, fome ufe- 
 ful remarks are made on Dairying, and alfo 
 
 on 
 
( 122 ) 
 
 on the Dairy-houfe, which he fays, fliould 
 always be kept in the neateft order, and fo 
 fituated, that the Windows or Lattices ne- 
 ver front the South,^ South-eaft or South- 
 weft ; Lattices are alfo prefer'd to Windows, 
 as they admit a more free circulation of Air, 
 than glazed lights poffible can do, and to 
 prevent the cold y\ir in Winter, a Hiding 
 frame coverd Vv' ith oil'd cap paper, pafted on 
 packthread ftrained thereon, will admit the 
 light and keep out the Sun and Wind. It is 
 hardly poffible in the Summer to keep a 
 Dairv-houfe too cool, on which account 
 none (liould be fituated far from a good fpring 
 or current of Water : They (hould be neat- 
 ly paved with red brick or fmooth hard ftone, 
 and laid with a proper defcent, fo that no 
 Water may lodge, this pavement ftiould be 
 r.'ell Vv^afh'd in fummer every day ; and all 
 the Utenfils belonging to the Dairy fhould 
 be kept perfectly clean, nor fiiouldthe Churns 
 even be fuffcr'd to be fcalded in the Dairy 
 as the (Icam that arifes from hot Water will 
 injure the Milk, nor do I approve of Clieefe 
 being kept therein, or Rennet for making 
 ' pheefe, cr having a Cheefe Frefs fixed in a 
 
 Dairy, 
 
( 123 ) 
 
 Dairy, as the Whey and Curd will diffufe 
 their acidity through-out the Room. He is 
 of opinion the proper receptacle for Milk 
 are Earthen-pans or Wooden-vats, but not 
 lined with lead, as that mineral certainly 
 contains a poifonous quality and may in fome 
 degree affect the Milk, but if people ft ill per- 
 fift in ufmg them, he advifes that they never 
 forsret to fcald them, fcrub them well with 
 fait and Water and to dry them thoroughly 
 before they depofit the Milk therein, indeed 
 all Utenfils fliould be cleaned in like manner 
 before they are ufed, and if after this, they 
 in the leaft degree fmell four, they mufl un- 
 dergo a fecond fcrubbing before they are fit 
 for ufe, he alfo recommends Pans with a large- 
 furface, or wide at top; during the Sum- 
 mer Months he recommends fkimming the 
 Milk very early in the Alorning before the 
 Dairy becomes warm, and not in the Even- 
 ing till after Sun fet ; churning he recom- 
 mends to be done in a Morning before the 
 Sun appears, taking care to fix the churn 
 where there is a free draft of Air, if a pump 
 churn be ufed it may be plunged a foot deep 
 into a tub of cold water to remain there the 
 
 wIioIq 
 
( 124 ) 
 whole time of churning, which will very 
 much harden the Butter ; a flrong rancid 
 flavour will be given to Butter, if the churn 
 be fo near the fire as to heat the wood, in the 
 Winter feafon. 
 
 After Butter is churned, it fliould be wafh- 
 ed in many different waters till it is perfeftly 
 cleanfed from the Butter-milk, but he ob- 
 ferves a warm hand will foften it and make 
 it appear greafey : The Cheefe-mongers ufe 
 two pieces of Wood ( or Spaddles ) for their 
 Butter, and if thole wlio have a very hot 
 hand were to have fuch, they might work the 
 Butter, lo as to make it more faleable. 
 
 Butter will require, and endure, more 
 working in Winter than in Summer, but he 
 remarks he never knew any perfon, whofe 
 hand was warm by nature make good Butter. 
 
 Thofe who ufe a pump churn mull endea« 
 vour to keep a regular flroke, nor fliould they 
 admit any perfon to afTifl them, except they 
 keep nearly the fame flroke, for if they churn 
 more flowl)^, the Butter will in Winter, go 
 
 back 
 
C 12.5 ) 
 
 back, as it is called, and if the ftroke be 
 more quick and violent, in the Summer it 
 will caufe a fermentation, by which means 
 the Butter will imbibe a very difagreeable 
 flavor. Where many Cows are kept, a bar- 
 rel churn is preferable, but it requires to be 
 kept very clean or the bad effetls will be dif- 
 cover'd in the Butter, to be fixt in a warm 
 place in Winter, and where there is a free Air 
 in the Summer. 
 
 As many of my acquaintance wiflied to 
 have an enlarged account, of the Art of mak- 
 ing Butter: I was very glad to have the 
 opportunity, of colleding thefe annex'd, 
 which are mofl of them worthy obfervation, 
 and as I have before mention'd the method 
 fome people ufe in making Butter from 
 what is generally cali'd clouted cream ; I 
 fhall now give vou the procefs as laid down 
 by Mr. Hazard. 
 
 '• In the firfl place, they depofit their Milk 
 in Earthen-pans in their Dairy-houfe, and 
 ( after they have flood twelve Hours in the 
 Summer, and double that fpace in the Win- 
 ter 
 
( 126 ) 
 
 ter ) they remove them to (loves made for 
 that purpofe, which floves are filled with hot 
 embers; on thefe they remain till bubbles 
 rife, and the Cream changes its colour, it is 
 then deem'd heated enough, and this they 
 call fcalded Cream, it is afterward removed 
 fteadily to the Dairy, where it remains twelve 
 Hours more, and is then {l<.immed from the 
 Milk and put into a Tub or Churn, if it be 
 put into a Tub, it is beat well with the hand, 
 and thus they obtain Butter, but a cleanlier 
 way is to make ufe of a Churn; fome fcald 
 it over the fire, but then the fmoke is apt to 
 affeft it, and in either cafe if the pans touch 
 the fire, they v/ill crack or fly, and the Milk 
 and Cream be wafted ." 
 
 Dairy- women are oft times much perplex'd 
 when churning, by having the Butter very 
 long in coming, the caufe of which I have 
 never heard properly explain'd, fome think 
 the Cream was too cold, fometimes it is 
 thought too hot, many obferve that an irre- 
 gular motion in churning prevents its coming 
 properly, as before remark'd by M7\ Hazard, 
 but there feems to be a more powerful chemi- 
 cal 
 
( 127 ) 
 
 cal caufe ; from obferving common caufes, 
 I fhould imagine there is an alclaine fait in 
 old Milk, which fometimes overcomes the 
 oily part of the Cream wd^ien agitated by the 
 motion of churning, fo as to prevent the But- 
 ter, feparating in the churn, the cure for 
 which feems to be, to reduce the alcali to a 
 neuteral flaie, which effecl:. Acids are known 
 to have, or at leaft alcalics on Acids, as is 
 common; when Beer gets four or much Acid, 
 to recover it by putting a little fait of Tartar, 
 fait of Worm-wood or any other powerful 
 alcali into it, immediately recovers it to its 
 ufual (late, and neither the acid nor alcali 
 are perceived in the Beer, being made neu- 
 teral by their union. 
 
 I am much pleas'd to (ind my opinion 
 feconded, and put in practice by an anoni- 
 mous Author in the Bath Papers, who was 
 very earned: to find out a remedy that would 
 haften the operation in churning, and from 
 a very pertinent idea that led him to weigh 
 the matter, feems to have found out the real 
 caufe of the obitruclion, met with in the 
 work, and alfo a remedy, which many Dairy- 
 women 
 
( 128 ) 
 
 women will be very happy to be inform'd 
 of, as the Author juftly obferves, it will fliort- 
 en the Labour of many a weary Arm, and 
 prevent much vexation to a multitude of 
 good Houfe-wives. 
 
 He obferves, that when the operation of 
 churning had been going forward for half a 
 Day, he caufed a little diftilled Vinegar to 
 be poured into the churn, and the Butter was 
 produced within an Hour afterwards. 
 
 He alfo remarks upon the fubjeft, that if 
 the fuppofition be admitted, that the Cream 
 of old Milk ( and fuch is Milk for the mofl 
 part in Winter, ) contains much ftronger al- 
 caline fait, or at leaft more of it than nev/ 
 Milk does, then the effe6l of the Vinegar is 
 readily accounted for on the known princi- 
 ples of Chymiflry, it is an acknowledged pro- 
 perty of alcalies to unite with oil into a 
 faponaceous ( or foapy ) mafs, and to render 
 them intimately mifcible with water. But it 
 is likewife well known to chemifts that there 
 is a nearer affinity ( as they Term it ) a much 
 ftronger ele6live attradion between acids 
 
 and 
 
( 129 ) 
 and akalles than between alcalies and oils ; 
 confequently the acids being mixed with the 
 Cream, immediately attaches to itfelf the al- 
 caline fak, which is the bond of union, as 
 we may call it, that holds together the ole- 
 aginous (oily) and aqueous (watery) par- 
 ticles, and leaves them eafily feparable from 
 each other. It may perhaps be objecled to 
 this mode ofpradice that the acid mixing with 
 the Cream, would render the Butter unpa- 
 latable ; but this on experience I do not find 
 to-be the cafe, and indeed I fhould not my 
 felf haveexpefted it, as the Butter is ufually 
 well wafhed in two or three chancres of clean 
 Water, by which the v/hole of the acid is 
 carried off, or if fome few particles remxain, 
 they are fo few as not to be perceiv'd by the 
 taile & perhaps have rather a defirable cffe6l 
 than othcrwife, by atting as an antifeptic, 
 ( preventing putrefaciion ) and preventing 
 the Butter from becoming rancid fo foon as 
 it otherwife would do ; he adds, my experi- 
 ments have not as yet afcertained the exacl 
 quantity of the acid which is necelTary to pro- 
 duce the proper effe6^, nor the precife time 
 of its being mix'd v/ith the Cream. But I 
 
 K apprehend 
 
f ^3^ ) 
 apprehend a table fpoonful or two to a gal- 
 lon of Cream will be fuflBcient ; nor would 
 I recommend it to be applied, till the Cream 
 has under-gone fome confiderable agitation. 
 
 After having fo much interefled myfelf in 
 endeavouring the improvement of Dairying, 
 I am unwilling to take my final leave of it, 
 without adding my fincere wifh, that the in- 
 creafe of Dairy-Farms, may meet with every 
 encouragement from the Public, as it appears 
 to me, a matter of the firfl; confequence to 
 this Nation. The price of Butter & Cheefe 
 having fo much increafed within a few years, 
 makes it quite neceffary to give every en- 
 couragement to the increafe of Dairying, as 
 it plainly appears, there is not near a fuffici- 
 ency of thofe Articles for general ufe, and 
 every endeavour to increafe the quantity 
 muft be for the Public good, if we only con- 
 fider how large a quantity of Butter is im- 
 ported into England every Year, and yet 
 the price dill continues to advance ; it is 
 aftonifhing to think that there is annually 
 great quantities of Grain of different ki-nds 
 imported into the Kingdom, while fuch a 
 
 prodigious 
 
( 131 ) 
 prodigious quantity of Land lies wafle in 
 commons or that are of very little benefit to 
 the community in general ; alfo, how ma- 
 ny thoufand People ( both young and old ) 
 are now unemploy'd, who might find fuff- 
 cient fupport, if encouragement w^as given 
 for improving of Land for different pur- 
 pofes, and growth of numerous materials 
 which now takes our Money abroad, fuch as 
 Rhubarb, Liquorifh, Madder, Woad, Tea- 
 fels, Flax, Hemp, Sec. As a plan for improve- 
 ment in Hufbandry, feems much to prevail 
 at prefent in this Kingdom, as if in emula- 
 tion, to keep pace with the Arts, and in- 
 genuity difcoverable in many of our capital 
 Manufaftures in the prefent Age, fo fupe- 
 rior to thofe of former times and which are 
 ftill improving in a very great degree, fo 
 from the various Societies conne6led in dif- 
 ferent parts of this Kingdom, for the benefit 
 and improvement of Agriculture, great 
 knowledge is acquired and made Public for 
 the general advantage of community, and 
 if the fame fpirit would animate Gentlemen 
 in common, who doubtlefs are the people 
 that will receive the greatell advantage from 
 
 K 2 the 
 
( 132 ) 
 die inclofure of commons, it would be a no- 
 ble example, and difcover a true patriotic 
 fpirit, if they would undertake the improve- 
 ment of the Lands, which may be inclos'd, 
 and who have it more in their power, efpe- 
 cially where fmall Farms are neceffary, (than 
 the peafant to whom they may be let, and 
 who, when they are made ufeful can perhaps 
 bed employ them for the Public good, ) they 
 would then be well repaid for their trouble, 
 be fetting a noble example to pofterity, mak- 
 ing a fortune for their Family,- at the fame 
 time they are enabling numbers to gain a 
 livelihood by their means, and what is there 
 in Life that would more endear them to 
 their Country, than fuch a benevolent dif- 
 pofition. I have not a doubt but the pro- 
 portion of large Farms throughout this King- 
 dom is too great for the fmall ones, and if 
 the inclofure of con>mons fliould take place, 
 there would be a proper opportunity to equal- 
 ize them, by making a larger number of fmall 
 Farms of different degrees, from 20 Acres 
 to 50, from 50 to 100 and from 100 to 150^ 
 for tho' it is from large Farms, that our 
 principal fupply of provifions mufl arife, yet 
 
(133) 
 it certainly is from the fmall Farms that our 
 Markets are chiefly fupply'd with the com- 
 mon neceflaries, fuch as Butter, Eggs, Fov/Is, 
 Pigs, Pigeons, Fruit and many other com- 
 mon neceflaries of human Life, and the more 
 fmall and moderate flz'd Farms there are, 
 the better will all Markets be fuppiied. I 
 have not a doubt but if Gentlemen would 
 undertake the management of new enclo- 
 fures, great improvement might be made from 
 the Horfe-hove, and drill Hufl3andry fo 
 much commended by many of the Bath So- 
 ciety correfpondents, as well as thofe of 
 Arthur Young, Efq; and from the advantage 
 propofed thereby of improving Land by 
 thofe methods, with very little manure, if 
 Gentlemen would thoroughly adopt that 
 method upon a large fcale of praftice, doubt- 
 lefs it would become univerfal, and from 
 the great quantity of Seed propofed to be 
 faved by this method, and a larger crop pro- 
 duced, muft in the end be a very great ad- 
 vantage to this Nation ; many may objcft, 
 that the inclofed commons, will very little of 
 it become Dairy-Land for a confiderable 
 Jime ; yet it will certainly come in, in time^ 
 
 K 3 and 
 
( ^34 ) 
 and the more Arable Land is brought into 
 ufe, certainly the greater proportion of Grafs 
 Land' may be fpared for the Dairy. One 
 great impediment to inclofures is the great 
 cxpence of A61s of Parliament this might 
 be remedied in a great meafure, if Govern- 
 ment would grant one general A61 for inclof- 
 ing commons throughout the Kingdom, un- 
 der the dire61ion of County Committees, 
 which might be appointed for that purpofe 
 at a moderate expence, and fully anfwerthe 
 delign. but as a hint at the improvement, is 
 the only thing I can advance toward it, yet, 
 like the Widows mite, I would not with hold 
 it, as it may encourage more capable Perfons 
 to take it m hand. 
 
 
 
SOME ACCOUNT, 
 
 O F 
 
 Noxious, Bitter, and Poisonous, 
 
 PLANTS. 
 
 RIBWORT, ribbed grafs, black 
 plantain or cock plant; this plant 
 may not properly be ranged among 
 bitter plants, it not being bitter to any great 
 degree, but I have often thought upon ex- 
 amination, that the bitternefs in fome Cheefe 
 more refembles the tafte of this plant and 
 dandelion than any other whatfoever, and in 
 barren foils they are apt to prevail more than 
 ^ny other. 
 
 Arfmart, or lakeweed, is a bitter plant, 
 well known ; 'tis faid to produce an effen- 
 tial oil, or oil extrafted by dlHillation, 
 which I fhould imagine more likely to affect 
 the bitternefs of Milk than colder plants, 
 it is apt to grow very flronj after being 
 K 4 mowed, 
 
( 136 ) 
 
 mowed, and I have not obferved that Cows 
 refufe or leave it untouched more than o- 
 ther plants in common. I think this plant 
 much more likely to caufe the bitternefs of 
 Butter in Autumn than the falling leaves to 
 which it is generally referred, though many 
 people are of opinion that Cows eating afii 
 leaves in Autumn, caufes the bitternefs in 
 Butter. 
 
 Meadow-fweet — is a bitterifli plant that 
 Cows are fond of, efpecially the fort that 
 grows on up-lands, coxnmonly called drop- 
 wort, the meadow-fweet of low- meadows is 
 p. fort they do not readily feed on where 
 there is plenty of Grafs. 
 
 Centaury, lefFer centaury ojr gentian, is 
 an extream bitter plant, bears a pale red 
 l^loflbm with many florets, or pips,' on an 
 upright flem in old Pallures, blows from 
 ^une to Auguji, I fliould imagine it mufl 
 J3e hurtful in Dairy-ground being a very 
 Denetratinsf bitter. 
 
 Hemlock^ with flpms firjd branches, fpot- 
 
 te(| 
 
( 137 ) 
 ted with brown, or black, and white flower; 
 the whole plant is poifonous, it grows in 
 hedges, orchards, or among rubbifh, and is 
 very common. 
 
 Henbane, with blofToms purple & brown- 
 indented leaves, embracing or cleaving to 
 the flem, grows on road (ides or among 
 rubbifli, the feeds, roots, and leaves taken 
 internally are all poifonous. 
 
 Nightfiiade, grows in moid brakes and 
 hedges, with bluifh blofFoms, fomtimes in- 
 clined to flefh colour, fometimes white. 
 
 Deadly nightfhade — dwale -- or belladon- 
 na is the word fpecie, growing in woods, 
 hedges, among lime-ftone or rubbifh ; the 
 ftem is herbaceous or of a herby nature, 
 the leaves, fpear, or halbert fhaped, the 
 flowers of a bluifli purple with a bright 
 yellow thrum, chives, or pointal, appear- 
 ing like the fnufF of an expiring Candle, 
 the berries grow in very handfome bunches, 
 firft green, then a fine red, next a beautiful 
 black, are very tempting to Children having 
 
 cofl 
 
(138) 
 coil many tl^icir Lives, caufing fiupor, de- 
 lirium, and convulfions, and are certain 
 Death if not prevented by timely and plen- 
 tiful vomiting ; this plant cannot be too 
 well known being fo very common in mofl 
 Countries, and fo tempting, both to Children 
 and Cattle. 
 
 Cow-bane, water-virofa, or water-hem- 
 lock — with rundies or flower branches 
 oppofite the leaves, Icaf-flalks with blunt 
 borders, with about feven pair of little leaves, 
 which are varioufly divided and indented, 
 petals, or leaf of the flower, yellowifli pale 
 Freen, grows in fliallow waters, is a perennial 
 plant, or that continues from year to year, 
 blows in July ; this is one of the rankeft of 
 ouf vegetable poifons ; numerous infl:ances 
 are recorded of its Fatality to the human 
 fpecies ; an account of it may be {&tn 
 and an engraving in Martin's Philofophical 
 Tranfaftions, Vol. lO. Early in the fpring 
 when it grows in the w^ater, Cows often eat 
 it and are killed by it, but as the Summer 
 advances and its fmell becomes ftronger, 
 they carefully avoid it ; though a certain 
 
 fatal 
 
fatal poifon to Cows, Goats devour it gree- 
 dily and with impunity, Horfes and Sheep 
 eat it with fafety. 
 
 Cow-weed, or wild Cecily, grows in hedg- 
 es, blows in May, or June, with white 
 flowers, roots like a Parfnip, and is very 
 poifonous. 
 
 Water- wort. Water-hemlock, or Water- 
 flceleton, is efteem'd a fatal poifon to Horfes, 
 occafioning them to become paralytick, 
 which is owing to an infe6l called Curcutia 
 Parapleulicus, which generally inhabits with- 
 in the ftem ; the ufual antidote is pig's dung, 
 the branches of the leaves ftradling — flem 
 very thick, hollow, Icored, petals or flowers 
 white, grows in rivers, ditches and pools, 
 bloflbms in June ; in the Winter the roots 
 ^nd fl;em diflefted by the influence of the 
 weather, afford a curious fl^eleton, or net' 
 W^ork. 
 
 Kex, or water-parfiiip, with white flow- 
 ers in July or Auguji, grows in rivers and 
 fens, is very noxious to Cattle ; alfo the lef- 
 
 fer 
 
( HO ) 
 fer Kex called upright water-parfnip, in ri- 
 vers and ditches, is very common; blofToms 
 in July and AuguJI, leaves halbert fliaped, 
 rundles or flower-branch oppofite the leaves. 
 
 Drop- wort, or dead tongue, grows on the 
 banks of rivers, bears a white flower in June, 
 the petals or leaves of the flower fliarp — • 
 bent inwards, tips purple or brown — the 
 whole of this plant is poifonous, the fl:em is 
 a yellowifli red, the leaves fmooth, fl,reaked, 
 jagged at the edges, 'the root is the rankefl; 
 and mofl virulent oi all vegetable poifons. 
 
 Mithridate — or penny-crefs, growls in 
 corn fields with oblong leaves, toothed, 
 fmooth, white blofibms ; the whole plant 
 has fomething of a garlick flavour, the feeds 
 have the acrimony or fliarpnefs of mufl:ard ; 
 Cows are rather fond of it, and I flioulcj 
 think their Milk is often affefted by it. 
 
 Penny-wort, or white-rot, grows in mar- 
 fliy fpringy ground, with a pale red flower, 
 blows in AJay ; many Farmers fuppofe it 
 .occafions the rot in Sheep, but I fliould ex- 
 pe6l that complaint proceeds from a very 
 
 jdifferent 
 
( Ml ) 
 
 different caufe ; though, if flowks that are 
 fuppofed to be the certain caufe of the Rot, 
 or the fpawn of them, are taken in with the 
 food of Sheep, as fome imagine, it is poffible 
 the Ova, or Eggs of this Infeft may be de- 
 pofited in this plant, which to know, may- 
 be worth the Farmer's enquiry. 
 
 Some Account of the Runnet Plant, 
 
 X T' E L L O W Verum — Goo fe-grafs ; the 
 -*- Leaves growing by eights, or eight 
 leaves round the flem. flrap-fliaped — fur- 
 rowed — the flowering branches fhort, blof- 
 foms yellow. 
 
 Englifh Names, are yellow ladies bed- 
 ftraw or Cheefe Renning, or petty muguet; 
 it grows in dry ground, on road fides, very 
 common, is perennial, blows in July or 
 Augiijt. The flowers will coagulate boil- 
 ing Milk, and fome CheJJiire Cheefe is faicJ 
 to be made with them ; according to an ex- 
 periment from Borrchius they yield an Acid 
 by diftillation. The French prefcribe them 
 
 in 
 
( 142 ) 
 
 in hyflerick and epileptick cafes, boiled in 
 Allum water they tinge wooll yellow, the 
 roots d)^ a very fine red, not inferior to 
 Madder and are ufed for this purpofe in the 
 IJland oS. Jara. See Pennant's Tour, 1772, 
 Page 214. Sheep and Goats eat it, Horfes 
 and Swine refufe it, Cows are not fond of it. 
 If the roots will anfwer the fame purpofe as 
 Madder it highly merits the obfervation of 
 Calico Pi'inters and others, who ufe large 
 quantities of that Article, as it is the mofl 
 dommon weed, and what in the month of 
 July, there is more of, than any other weed, 
 and if the flowers will dye yellow, and make 
 Cheefe, it muft be a very valuable Plant and 
 be a great help to the Poor to colleft it. as 
 it grows on all road fides, old pafi:ures and 
 hedges in great abundance. 
 
 I have omitted giving the Latin names of 
 Plants, not having fufficient knowledge in 
 that Language ; but fuch of ray learned rea- 
 ders who wifh for that addition, may refer 
 either to Dr. Withering s, or ether books on 
 Botany, to Chambers, Croker, or other Dic- 
 tionaries. 
 
 IN- 
 FINIS, 
 
^-^^I-Il 
 
 '^.%:% ^*^ 
 
 w w www Wtj? 
 
 A%.^^^^^i>t-X.WX. M Sasn * SUM. SfL SL itO. m^ ' 
 
 N D 
 
 Page. 
 
 AN N A T T O - 68 
 Arlmart — 95, 135 
 Alcaline — — i2j 
 
 B. 
 
 Bulged Cheefe 58 
 
 Blifter'd Ditto 35 
 
 Blue-pared Ditto - 52, 85 
 Brine-drippings — 43 
 
 Bull Cheele 45 
 
 Breaking-curd 48, aq, 86 
 
 Bitter Cheefe 95 
 
 Breeders of Cows — 101 
 
 Butter lib 
 
 Brick-bat Cheefe — 63 
 
 C. 
 
 Curd 
 
 Cow defcribed 
 Curdly Cheefe 
 Cream <.'heefc 
 Colouring Cheele 
 Checlc from poor 
 
 . from Clov 
 
 . from any 
 
 Cheefe Powder 
 Cheefe Prels — 
 Cheefe Vats — 
 Centaury — 
 
 Cow Kane — 
 Cow Weed — 
 Chill Cheefe — 
 Cochineal — 
 Correfnondence 
 Citeefc Chamber 
 
 D 
 Dry Cracks - 12, 59, 84 
 
 14, 90 
 
 — 17 
 
 — 59 
 
 — 64 
 
 66, 71 
 Land 88 
 er - q4 
 Land 79 
 - 56 
 
 — 93 
 
 — 108 
 
 — 136 
 
 — 138 
 
 — 139 
 31. 65 
 
 — 72 
 ■ 90, 109 
 
 — 104 
 
 E X. 
 
 Page. 
 Datry-womeo - ti, 15, 7* 
 
 Dairying 16 
 
 Dairy Ground 2(3 
 
 Drop Wort 140 
 
 Dairy Houfe — 122 
 
 E. 
 
 Eyes in Cheefe - 11. 32 
 
 F. 
 Fermentation — g^ 
 Fixt Air - 33, 34, 54, 94 
 Foul Air — 5^, 93 
 flavour — 104, 10,5 
 
 Froft 64, 106 
 
 f lakey Cheefe 51,66, 1 03 
 
 General quantity of Chcefs 
 
 21, 24 
 
 Green Whey 52 
 
 H. 
 
 Hove Cheefe 34, 54, 105 
 Huiky Coated Cheefe i« 
 
 Harfh Air ^jj 
 
 Hemlock — — 13G 
 
 Henbane 137 
 
 Honey-eomb Cheefe - 33 
 
 53» 
 
 Kex 
 
 139 
 
 L. 
 
 Loofe Cheefe — 33, 3,5 
 
144 
 
 N D 
 
 M. 
 
 Page. 
 Milk - ty, i8, 26, 98, 102 
 • — carried in Chuino 26 84 
 
 Milk warm 28 
 
 Maw Skin - 36, 41, 43 
 - way to make them 42 
 
 Marigold Chceie — 71 
 Meadow Sweet — 138 
 Mithndate •— 140 
 
 N. 
 Noxious Plants - 12, 95,98 
 Night Shade — 137 
 
 Nitre — — 56 
 
 P. 
 
 Parfley Cheefe — 67 
 Poifonous Plants — 95, 97 
 
 Pafturage 13, 96 
 
 Penny Crefs 140 
 
 Penny Wort 140 
 
 ^\ 
 
 Quantity of Cheefe from 
 
 the fame Milk 8. 80, 92 
 Quantity of Cheefe made 
 • 22, 81 
 
 R. 
 Rank Cheefe 1 2, 54, 55, 90 
 
 Rotten Cheefe 54 
 
 Rendling Milk — 27 33, 
 
 » 42, 81 
 
 Running Streams - 22, 103 
 Runnet Plant — log, 110 
 
 E X, 
 
 Page. 
 
 Rih Wort 135 
 
 Runnet to make 43,52, 1 10 
 
 S. 
 Sweet Cheefe — 51? 77 
 
 Spongy Cheefe . 54 
 
 Split Cheele ^7 
 
 Salting in Milk 28, 30, 58 
 Salting in Cud — 57 
 
 Spear Grafs iit 
 
 Slip Curd3i, 35, 50,61, 65 
 Sunk Cheefe — 47, 89 
 Sunk coated Cheele — 59 
 Skimmed Cheefc6o, 61,65 
 
 Sage Cheefe 71 
 
 Salutary Plants gg 
 
 Saintfoin Grafs 100 
 
 Scalding Cheefe — 107 
 Slip coat Cheele - 62, 65 
 
 T. 
 
 Time in Eaining 14, 31, 
 
 455 475 61 
 
 Tears — — 32 
 Two meal Cheefe — 60 
 Turnip Butter — 121 
 
 W. 
 
 Whey Springs — 11, 32 
 Warmth of Milk - 28,29 
 Warming Milk — 30. 01 
 Warmth — 61, 103, 104 
 Wafhing Cheefe — 105 
 White Whey — 5a 
 W^aterwort — -—139 
 
 R R 
 
 A. 
 
 Page 127 line 2d for Alclaine, read Alcaline, 
 — — 127 line gih for Alcalics, read Alcalics. 
 
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