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'^' ^qsjs- This book may be kept out TWO WEEK ONLY, and is subject to a fine of PIV CENTS a day thereafter. It is due on tt day indicated below: 7^ Xluu Z^-r^J-J^^ S^M- / 50M— 048— Form 3 n^ '^ o ^x INIGO JONES AND WREN OR THE RISE AND DECLINE OK MODERN ARCHITECTURE IN ENGLAND Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2009 with funding from NCSU Libraries http://www.archive.org/details/inigojoneswrenorOOIoft STAIkCASK, ASUnUKNHAM HOUSE. liV INICO JONES. INIGO JONES AND WREN OR RESERVEi THE RISE AND DECLINE MODERN ARCHITECTURE IN ENGLAND BY W. J. LOFTIE AUTHOR OF ' A HISTORY OF LONDON, ETC. NEW YORK MACMILLAN AND CO. 1893 WITHDRAWN p^ eUFPALO ••UBUIC LIBRARY PREFACE It is, perhaps, necessary to explain why the term " Palladian " is here chiefly used for the kind of architecture practised by Inigo Jones and Wren, to which the following pages relate. The only other possible word, "renascence," or " rennaissance," is not sufficiently definite, and has moreover a foreign sound. Some people speak of "Queen Anne," but the style was in vogue here in the time of Queen Anne's great-grandfather, nearly a century before her glorious reign. The art, as described by Palladio, and as practised by himself at Vicenza, and by his contemporaries and followers in Venice, Padua, Genoa, Florence, Rome, and many other places, is easily recog- nised. Its influence was nowhere more marked than in England, which indeed may be termed its second home, and where it flourished even better than in its birthplace. The French, though their writers refer to the fact, seem never to have cared for it as we have done ; and the work of their great architects, Mansard, Perrault, Le Mercier, and their fellows, differs in many important particulars, nay, in fundamental 99515 viii Modern Architecture in England principles, from that of Inigo Jones, Wren, Burlington, or Chambers, whose art was essentially English, though founded on Italian. As the word " Palladian " then conveys a definite idea and is moreover easy to pronounce, and as after much seeking I have found no other name so suitable, I hope I may be excused for using it. " Queen Anne " has a limited, " Italian " an unlimited meaning. True, the faults of Palladio, as set forth, not so much in his drawings as in his actual buildings, are easily discovered, though they hardly concern us here. He was careless of details, his ornaments are often coarsely cut, and though he had laid down such exact rules for proportion he was always ready to break them himself when occasion arose. It is perhaps this freedom as much as anything which recommended his views on the Italian style, itself founded on the Roman and that on the Grecian, to the admiring notice of posterity. There can be but little doubt that the publication of his book in 1570 led to its adoption here, as representing learned or classical art as distinguished from Gothic. Another excuse or apology I have also to make. This book is not written for architects, nor is it by an architect. My earnest hope in launching it upon the world is that it may reach some of those by whom architects are employed. I do not doubt my critics, if I have any, will object that I have not used the correct terms in describing the architectural features of some buildings. But I have been advised that such terms are often Preface ix only a puzzle to the general reader ; that, as he is not about to design, they are superfluous, and that much talk about friezes, triglyphs, drops, modillions, architraves, entablatures, and so on, would only be a weariness and interrupt the course of the narrative or argument. At the same time, in several cases, I have added a more complete and technical account of any object which seemed to require it. I should conclude this preface by saying that as I was writing the last lines of my last chapter, the book on the question. Is Architecture a Profession or an Art ? was put into my hands. I feel obliged to agree with nearly every word of it, and especi- ally with Mr. Norman Shaw's essay. I am glad to find so many architects ready to recognise the place and importance of art in design ; and though the volume came out too late to be of any advantage to me, I feel it is a cause of deep satisfaction that so powerful a movement should have been made, and by such eminent artists, to lay down distinctly the very principles on which every chapter of this book has been written. I cannot but think that before long the employers of architects will be brought to see that beauty in design is better than ornament, and far less costly. I am not an architect, as I have said, but a member of the general public, though I belong to a profession the members of which as a class give the most employment to architects. I ought perhaps to apologise for venturing, even after many years b X Modern Architecture in England of study, to address the public on the subject ; but however eminent an architect may be, it is not the architect but his employer, the amateur, who is entitled to make the final decision ; and it cannot be doubted that much if not all of the bad building of the day is due to the ignorance or indifference of the archi- tect's employers. I have endeavoured, 1 hope with success, to unravel the history of Inigo Jones's two great designs for Whitehall, which have so completely puzzled previous writers, and I have endeavoured also to apply similar principles to the elucidation of the different schemes made by Wren for St. Paul's. The illustrations are mainly from the plates published during the golden age of English Palladian. They are, however, largely supplemented by photographs, especially of those charm- ing buildings of the transitional period which are to be found in the west country, and where the Bath stone forms such a ready vehicle for the expression of poetry in stone. Mr. R. Wilkinson, of Trowbridge, has obligingly placed the results of many years' photography at my disposal, and I beg to thank him warmly. The London Stereoscopic Company have also permitted me to have copies made from their productions, and I beg very gratefully to acknowledge their courtesy. The two prints from the works of Inigo Jones, which were published by the Society for Photographing Remains of Old London, I owe to the kindness of Mr. Alfred Marks. to If) CO CONTENTS I INTRODUCTION Modern Gothic — Windsor Castle — Palace of Westminster — New Law Courts — Detail and Proportion — Salisbuiy and Chichester — The City of London — Ornament — Architectural Teaching — A Contrast — Churches — Gothic Churches — Wren's Churches — Novelty — The Anomalous or Eclectic Style — The chief want of Modern Architecture ..... Page 3 ' II THE DECAY OF GOTHIC " An arch never sleeps " — Progress of the Pointed Arch — Objects of Gothic Builders — Flat Arches — Rules — Modern Imitations — The Albert Memorial N* — The last Gothic — The so-called " Debased Style " — Late Gothic at Oxford ''s Club Houses— The Grecian Style— The Reign of Stucco — The New Gothic — Conclusion . . . . 215 ILLUSTRATIONS Staircase, Ashburnham House. By Inigo Jones. From a Photograph by the Society for Photographing Remains of Old London . . Frontispiece Church of St. Mar>'-le-Bo\v, by Wren, with the Norman Crypt. From the Print pubhshed by the Society of Antiquaries South Wraxall. From a Photograph by Mr. R. Wilkinson . Saloon, South Wraxall. From a Photograph by Mr. Wilkinson Almshouse, Corsham, Wilts. From a Photograph by Mr. Wilkinson Charles Church, Plymouth. From a Photograph Gallei-y, Haddon Hall. From a Photograph by the Stereoscopic Company Jaggard's Manor-House, Corsham, Wilts. From a Photograph by Mr. Wilkinson ....... The Duke's House, Bradford-on-Avon. From a Photograph by Mr. Wilkinson Longleat. From a Photograph by Mr. Wilkinson . Stewart iNIonuments, Ely Cathedral. From a Photograph . South Wraxall. From a Photograph by Mr. Wilkinson Gate of Honour, Caius College. From a Photograph Thieni Palace, Vicenza. From Ware's Palladia Almerico Palace, Vicenza. From Ware's Palladia . Mocenigo Palace. From Ware's Palladia .... Proportions of Ionic, Corinthian, and Composite Columns. From Ware' Palladia ....... Palace of Whitehall. As designed by Inigo Jones, 1619. From Miiller' Print .....•■• Lincoln's Inn Fields. From a Photograph by the Society for Photographing Remains of Old London ..... Part of Court, showing Banqueting Hall, WTiitehall. From Kent's Inigo Jones . . . ■ ■ ■ ■ • .123 25 29 37 41 57 61 65 69 81 85 89 100 loi 102 103 117 XVI Modern Architcctiiye hi England Portion of Design, Whitehall. From Kent's /wl^f/w/cf Portico, Old St. Paul's. From Kent's Inigo Jones . Covent Garden, Church and Piazza. From Vitruvius Britannicus, vol. ii, Cobham Hall, Kent. From a Photoyrnph .... Brympton. From a Photograph by Mr. Wilkinson Coleshill. From Vitruvius Britaiinicus, vol. v. . Greenwich Hospital. From a Photograph .... Part of Wren's First Design for Greenwich. From Vitruvius Britaiiiiicus^ \ol. i Greenwich : Vanbrugh's Work. From a Photograph The West Prospect of St. Paul's Church. From Vitruvius Britiinnicus, \ol. i St. Paul's Cathedra! : Wren's First Design .... St. Lawrence Jewry. From a Photograph hy the Stereoscopic Company East Front of Blenheim. From Vitruvius Britivmicus, vol. i. Public Buildings at Cambridge. By James Gibbs . St. Mary-le-Strand. By Gibbs ..... Spencer House, Green Park. By Vardy. From I'itruvius Brita?iiiitus,\o\. \\ House by Lord Burlington for General Wade. From Vitruvius Britannicus vol. iii. ■ . Dormitory, Westminster School. By Burlingloii. From Kent's liiigo Jone Assembly Rooms, York. By Burlington. From I'itruvius Iiritannicus,\o\.\\ Burlington House. From Vitruvius Britannicus, vol. iii. Gate, Burlington House. From Vitruvius Britannicus, vol. iii. Wrotham, Middlesex. By Isaac Ware. From Vitruvius Britannicus, vol. v Villa, Chiswick. By Lord Burlington. From Kent's Inigo Jones . Section, Chiswick. By Burlington. From Kent's Inigo Jones Holkham, Norfolk. By Kent. From Vitruvius Britannicus, vol. v. South Front, Kcdleston. By Adam. From Vitruvius Britannicus, \ol. i\-. Kedleston. By Adam. From Vitruvius Britannicus, vol. iv. Prior Park, Bath. From a Photograph by Mr. Wilkinson . Reform and Carlton Clubs, Pall Mall. From a Photograph by the Stereo scopic Company ...... Church at Glasgow. By Thomson. P'rom a Photograph . PACE 129 137 141 •45 161 165 181 185 189 205 217 223 225 231 235 239 243 247 251 255 2S9 263 266 269 269 275 278 INTRODUCTION J. CHURCH OF ST. MAkV-LEliOW, BY WKliN, WITH THli NORMAN CRYPT. I INTRODUCTION Modem Gothic — Windsor Castle — Palace of Westminster — New Law Coufts — Detail and Proportion — Salisbur>' and Chichester — The City of London — Ornament — Architectural Teaching — A Contrast — Churches — Gothic Churches — Wren's Churches — Novelty — The Anomalous or Eclectic Style — The chief want of Modem Architecture. It may be assumed without much proof that the modern attempt to revive Gothic architecture has been a failure. Unfortunately, the influence of the movement has told also on other styles. Up to the end of the sixteenth century, while the old Gothic was still alive it was progressive. It never rested. It was always seeking and often finding improvement. The architects of the first buildings in the pointed style bequeathed their traditions to their pupils, and the chapel of Henry VII. is lineally descended from Salisbury Cathedral. In the modern Gothic there was no such tradition. An architect sat down to design. He did not say, " I will try if I can improve on my last work, or, on the work of my pre- decessor." Quite the contrary. He said, " I will design this building in the style of the thirteenth century. I will design that one in the style of the fourteenth. This church shall be Decorated. That church shall be Perpendicular." All this was essentially false in art. We should laugh at a painter or D. H. l-iii_i_ LioriAHY North Carolina State Colleiee Modern Architecttire in En ' churches, and even prevailed occasionally for private houses and public buildings. I feel great hesitation in stating my opinion that the style is unsuitable, except in one particular, for churches. It is said to be cheaper than any other, and as churches have but too often to be built where money is scarce, if this is true there is little more to be said. But a handsome Gothic church is as expensive as any other building can be, and a plain Palladian church like Wren's chapel recently ruined at Cambridge is very cheap as far as money cost is concerned, though it is expensive in thought and calculation and all those other necessaries which have become so scarce at the present day. In building Gothic churches, as for example St. Mary Abbots at Kensington, the architect has, in order to make his work look mediceval, to surround it with chapels and side aisles and so forth ; but he builds them in the same style as the central church itself, and so at once destroys any illusion he may have created, because in a genuine ancient Gothic church the chapels must of necessity be of a different date and therefore of a different style. But apart altogether from any question as to Gothic examples, the more abstract question remains as to which is the best style for churches. For Roman Catholic worship the Gothic style is very suitable, though not certainly the best. Our beautiful old English parish churches were designed for the celebration of masses. It may, however, be remembered that many beautiful churches, in Italy and elsewhere, were designed for the selfsame purpose in the various forms of the Palladian style. But for Protestant services one of Wren's patterns, such as St. Lawrence, is very preferable. Wren used the Gothic plan for some of his finest efforts ; but even in them it is evident that he aimed at Introduction 1 1 making a place suitable for reading and preaching, not a place suitable for the celebration of masses. From this point of view, modern Gothic churches with mock side chapels are a failure. When we enter such a church, we see that the chapels only exist on the outside. They are " ornamental " features only. The whole interior forms one large chamber cut up into aisles by columns which only serve to intercept the view and interrupt the voice. Nothing, as I have said, seems to me so suitable for Protestant, and especially for Church of England worship, as one of Wren's city churches. His object always was to accommodate the largest congregation in such a way that all should be able to see and hear. In this respect the chapel of Pembroke College, Cambridge, came as near perfection in convenience as it was possible. When convenience could be combined with architectural beauty, as in St. Stephen's, Walbrook, the result was absolute perfection. Both these buildings have been senselessly altered of late years, and Wren's proportions lost, but we can still judge with an effort of what they formerly were, and wonder also that any one calling himself an architect could be found willing to lay his sacrilegious hands on them ; but it is probable that in neither case did the architect, brought up in the modern school of architecture, know what he was doing;. This brings me to the last point I need touch upon in this preliminary chapter. The education of the modern architect teaches him anything except architecture. He may learn all about specifications. He sometimes knows beforehand what a building will cost, though even in this he often fails, as in a celebrated recent case. After the building, sanitary work, materials, and other mechanical parts of his design have been 12 Modem Ardiitectiire in Eii^land 2 o 5 3 K Elizabethan ArcJiitecture 67 circular bow. Over the windows is beautiful flat balustrading, not in the least Italian, yet not Gothic. This balustrading is typically Elizabethan ; and on the terrace and steps into the garden it is of the same character but of a different pattern. Between the projecting windows are others flat, so that the whole front is taken up with a series of lights, those on the ground-floor being interrupted only by the entrance. These windows are formed by stone mullions ; two transoms in each opening running along the whole front. The chimneys are plain and square, set corner-wise. There are two gables at the side of the house, with four tall, plain, double-cross-mullioned windows in two storeys. The back is very like the front, but plainer. The entrance doorway from the terrace is the only place where we see any Italian features ; two graceful but very plain engaged columns standing on either side. Unlike so many houses of the period, the Duke's has no courtyard, the centre being occupied by a wide newel stair : an unusual and very pleasing feature. The rooms are, of course, magnificently lighted, and are high in proportion to their size. The ceilings are beautifully decorated with plaster fret-work. The house has been restored, but judiciously, and has been always kept in good order. There is not, except in a kind of cresting over the door, and the balustrades already mentioned, an inch of ornament any- where ; yet the effect is ornamental in no slight degree. The whole front is about 50 feet high and about 60 wide. The balustrade of the terrace is described by Mr. Blomfield (p. 185) as formed of panels of stone, 3^ inches thick, pierced with open work of alternate lozenges and ovals, with engaged balusters to the piers, and stone urns of various designs. Of the whole terrace, he tells us that "the fall of the ground is very sudden, 68 Modern ArcJiitecturc in England but that the difficulty is got ov^er in a very skiHul way " (p. 104). "The house is raised 12.0 above the lower garden ; in front of the house is a terrace 24 feet wide, with a flight of fourteen steps in the centre, descending to a grass platform with mitred slopes. The path runs to right and left, and descends to the lower garden by flights of seven steps : off this path, on either side of the terrace walls, two steps ascend to grass terraces 27 feet wide, and 52 paces and 29 paces respectively, which run under the walls of the upper gardens to right and left of the house." It is easy to imagine the surprise and pleasure with which so marked a departure from precedent must have been hailed when this house was first built, and the garden laid out. There is nothing, except the modest columns at the door, to identify the style as more Italian than Gothic. It is, in short, Elizabethan ; and from the novelty of the plan and the suitability of the whole design to our climate, may as well have been the work of Thorpe as of John of Padua. We cannot believe that the architect, if he came from Italy, would have omitted some Italian details which we fail to find. The Duke's House was built for John Hall, a wealthy merchant of old family in the town, between 1567 and 1579, and passed eventually into the possession of Evelyn Pierpont, Duke of Kingston, a great magnate in the reign of George I. — hence its name and that of Kingston House, used by Mr. Blomfield. The notorious Duchess of Kingston is said to have been much here ; and some years ago there were still reminiscences of her eccentricities among the townsfolk. Aubrey, in his notes on Wiltshire, attributes the design to John of Padua. There can be little doubt that the same architect desig-ned both it and Lonsfleat. In each there is the same reliance upon proportion, rather than upon ornament, to H W o z o ElizabetJian Architecture 71 insure an ornamental effect ; and though the Duke's House claims our attention first, as being easier to understand, from its small dimensions, and as being practically unrestored, Longleat, it must be acknowledged, is far more important and interesting, if only for its great size. Its chief character- istics may be briefly summed up. It forms a parallelogram of 220 feet by 180. The ground-floor is 15 feet high, the next 18, and the third 12 feet. The architecture is mainly the same as that of the house at Bradford ; but of course Longleat is on a much larger scale, and has not the same charm of compact beauty. There is a similar absence of mere ornament, the same abundant fenestration, the same beautiful parapet work, and, as compared with contemporary buildings, the same freshness and originality. If ever it could be said that a style was invented and did not grow from something else, it might be said of the style intro- duced in these two houses. At Longleat there is a certain amount of use of more distinctly Italian features, such as engaged columns between some of the windows and at the principal entrance ; but there have evidently been reparations and altera- tions at different periods. The older part, attributed to John of Padua and to Thorpe, was completed by Smithson ; and, after a fire. Sir Christopher Wren made many additions and improve- ments. Wyatville also had a hand in it ; and it is better, on the whole, as I have said, to accept, as typical of the style, the Duke's House at Bradford. Longleat and Bradford do not stand alone. They are only two of a goodly company. In Cheshire and some other counties where the oolite was not to be found, the style is represented by Samlesbury Hall, Poole, Moreton, Agecroft, and others — all of timber and plaster. In Northamptonshire and 72 Modern Architecture in England several of the adjoining counties, building stone is to be had, and many Ehzabethan houses still exist, while a still larger number have disappeared. Some, like Kirby, are empty ; some, like Burghley, have been altered ; and some, like Kenilworth, have become picturesque ruins. When we come to real Palladian architecture and the use of the orders, we shall find many examples in which an older Elizabethan house has been added to or decorated ; but the abundant allowance for window space was common to all, as well as the use of gables, sometimes, as in Kent, curved, of intricately designed chimneys, of flat lace-work parapeting, and the absence of Italian cornices and engaged columns. These gables are extremely obnoxious — 1 do not know why — to "restorers"; and at Ingestre and many other places they have been removed. There are a few architects' names to be noted as belonging to this epoch. We cannot always distinguish between architects, surveyors, and stewards entrusted with the carrying out of designs. Tradition has handed down the name of John of Padua. Of his work we know very little, if anything, for certain. He came from Italy in or before 1544, and on the 30th June in that year he received from Henry VIII., then at Westminster (Whitehall), a grant of 2s. a day "for services to the King in architecture and music." In 1549 there is a grant from the young King Edward VI. of the same sum ; being probably a continuation or confirmation. It is easy to form a theory as to John and his career. We may suppose he came, like so many others, to Henry VIII. as a musician; and having, in common with most of his compatriots, a turn for art, he may have offered his services to the King and other English employers of architects. He may, and probably did, offer to Elisabethau Architecture 73 build after the manner of Italy — an undertaking he would be unable to fulfil unless he had learnt the art at home. That he had vague recollections of the beautiful buildings rising in Venice, in Florence, in his own Padua, is likely enough ; but there is a complete absence of any evidence that he was acquainted with Vitruvian, or even Palladian teaching. No such design can be found among the buildings which have been attributed to him. If, for example, he was an architect educated in Italy, why did he build Longleat — assuming the fact, for an instant — without arched or angular pediments to the windows, without an Italian cornice, and with engaged pilasters of no particular proportion and in no particular style ? He deserves credit for an original design ; but, as I have pointed out, it is as little Classical as it is Gothic. Apart, however, from the two entries of royal grants, and from the persistent traditions above mentioned we have no precise information. Mr. Papworth mentions his name doubtfully in connection with Somerset Place in the Strand, of which nothing remains, and also with Sion House, now completely altered, with Longleat, and with Brad- ford. Further than this we have nothing ; and in passing on to the next name on our list, we may just pause to recall the pretty old legend that John of Padua died while sitting tranquilly jn the garden of Longleat and watching the work of his masons. Next in order, many would be disposed to place John Thorpe ; but he belongs strictly to the next chapter, as do the two Shutes and Robert Smithson. Henryck is mentioned by Lord Burghley, and was probably employed to design more than a bay window at Burghley House. He had been brought over by Gresham for his Royal Exchange, and came from Antwerp ; but of his further history we know nothing. There 74 Modern Architecture in England is a certain interest attaching to the "masons" who actually superintended the erection of Burghley and Cobham and other great country houses. If, as Mr. Gotch beHeves, the surveyor or architect did Httle except plot out, plan, or, in Shakespearean phrase, " draw the model," the execution was entrusted to the master mason, and under him were the carpenters, the glaziers, the makers of leaden cupolas and images, the plasterers, and the carvers. The architect made no drawings of details, and all such things were handed over to "a local agent or foreman, or clerk of the works, who hired labour on behalf of the building proprietor, overlooked the men for him, made bargains with them for doing the work, and paid them from time to time." So far, the old traditions lingered. The architect probably imparted, as far as he could, an Italian air to his general outline, to his domed turrets, and to any porches or other features which would bear a design of pillars and arches. But the Flemish and Italian plasterers, with in some cases the wood-carvers, who were also often foreign importations, would alone understand the object of the architect. The rest of the work would retain an air of the Gothic style in which the artificer was brought up ; and so we have the fascinating combinations which were bound to result — combinations of skilled single-minded workmen who had learned that certain things were good, certain things bad, and that, as I have had so many occasions to observe, even thus early in my book, there was only "one style, namely, the best. It is rather to this straightforward disposition of the workmen, and to the influence of a competent overseer, that we must attribute the beauty of these Elizabethan houses. At Burghley we have Peter Kemp ; at Cobham, Richard Williams ; and at Hatfield, Robert Liminge. One other influence must be Elizabethan Architedttre 75 mentioned. As Mr. Gotch observes, these overseers wrote for instruction and to report progress not to any architect, but to their employer. It is to the taste and hberality of such men as Burghley and his sons, to Hunsdon, Stafford, Tresham, and other weakhy amateurs, rather than to Thorpe, or Shute, or Smithson, that we owe the best of these ornaments of our land : the worthy exponents in architecture of the new birth which influenced poetry, the drama, history, music, and all the other arts in the great days before "the setting of that bright Occi- dental Star, Queen Elizabeth, of most happy memory." IV THE BEGINNINGS OF PALLADIAN IV THE BEGINNINGS OF PALLADIAN The Beginnings of Palladian — The First Examples — Tombs by Torregiano — Sir Anthony Browne's Monument — Mantelpieces — The Royal Exchange — Caius College — Recent Vandalisms — The Gates of Humility, Virtue and Knowledge, and Honour — Palladian in Fashion — John Shute — Lomazzo — Birth of Inigo Jones — Gothic and Palladian — Palladio — Vitruvius — Proportions of the principal Orders. Strange to say, it is not in houses but in churches that we must seek for the first efforts of the Palladian architects ; although, strictly speaking, this, the latest development of Italian taste, had not yet taken place, and Palladio was probably not yet born. In hundreds, perhaps in thousands of cases, the fell work of the " restorer" has destroyed these early monuments ; but enough remain to show us how warmly the style was appreciated, and how correctly it was practised before any house or church had been built in it in England, and while in Italy the style was still in its infancy. The first examples are the three tombs by Torregiano : two of them in Westminster Abbey and the third in the Rolls Chapel. Henry VII. and his mother, the Countess of Derby, generally known as the Lady Margaret — -" the Lady " being precisely equivalent to our phrase "the Princess" — both died in 1509. John Young, Dean of York, was made Master of the Rolls in the beginning of 1 508, 8o Modern ArcJiitcctitrc in England and continued in the office by Henry VIII. on his accession in the following year. There can be little doubt he himself commissioned the tomb which Torregiano made for him of terra-cotta in the Rolls Chapel; as it was completed in 1516, the very year he died. As to the altar tomb of Henry VII. and Elizabeth of York, in the Lady Chapel of Westminster Abbey, it was simply a revelation to "those beasts of English," as he contemptuously called them. It is later than the tomb of Young, and was probably finished after Torregiano returned from Italy, where he went in 15 18 to enlist workmen; the brass-work of the grate which encloses the tomb being already in place. This grating is purely Gothic, and was made by Nicholas Ewen before Torregiano was brought upon the scene. (See Gleanings from Westminster Abbey, p. 80.) The monu- ment of the Lady Anne of Cleves, who died in 1557, is attributed to Haveus, and may be reckoned one of the first of a long series at Westminster in which the Italian taste predominates. Seven years before, in 1550, Brigham had made the monument of Chaucer in the Poets' Corner, and it is completely Gothic in its features. But as far back at least as 1525 the monuments of the second and third Lords Marney, who both died in 1523, were set up at Layer Marney, in Essex, in an advanced Italian style, and of terra-cotta. If we assume, as we may, if only for the sake of advancing the clearness of a negative conclusion, that the first distinctly Palladian building, as distinguished from Elizabethan, is Caius College at Cambridge, begun probably by Haveus in 1565, — although, as I have said, true Palladian was as yet unknown, — we shall be surprised how much earlier purely Italian monuments appear in churches. We can hardly reckon the terra-cotta tomb at STEWART MONUMENTS ELY CATHEDRAL. M TJie Beginnings of Palladia n 83 o Arundel, but the Dormer monuments at Wing in Bedfordshire date between 1541 and 1552. The monument at Castle Head- ingham to the fifteenth Earl of Oxford, who died in 1539, though it is not Gothic, can hardly be described as Palladian. But the Audley monument at Saffron Walden, which has many points of resemblance to the tomb of Henry VH., cannot be dated much later than 1544. Several Darcy monuments must have been set up at about the same time in the church of St. Osyth. The date of Sir Anthony Browne's sumptuous tomb in Battle Church in Sussex can be fixed with greater certainty ; because it was made in his lifetime to commemorate his wife Alls in the first place. She died in 1540, and Sir Anthony himself in 1548, so that the work must be placed between those years. He had married, secondly, "the Fair Geraldine," Lady Elizabeth Fitzgerald. As this marriage took place in 1543, it seems not unlikely that the tomb was completed by that time. Lady Elizabeth did not take the pains to fill up the date of Sir Anthony's death. At Borley in Essex there are some fine tombs of members of the Waldegrave family, the latest of which, a beautiful arrangement of six composite columns, must be dated before the end of the century. At Chipping Hill, in the same county, there are excellent examples : one of them with a most carefully proportioned tablet which must assuredly have been designed by the architect of the Borley monument. The Rich memorial at Felstead is perhaps the best of those figured by Mr. Chancellor in his splendid volume on Essex Sepulchral Monuments. It is dated 1568, but was probably put up a little later. Some of the Stewart monuments in Ely Cathedral are of the same period. For other examples, I must refer the reader to Mr. Chancellor and to local church histories ; 84 Modern Arcliitccturc in England but enoueh have been cited to show that very pure ItaHan taste was already abroad before the commencement of the first Classical building in England. Scarcely behind church monuments in assuming a Classical garb were mantelpieces, — in ftict.it is only by a careful comparison of the best dated examples that I have arrived at the conclusion that the monuments precede them. Some of these Elizabethan chimneypieces are extremely quaint and picturesque ; but the purer Palladian taste and feeling do not come in till a comparatively late period. The fireplace was a favourite object on which to bestow a subtle device, or to display a redundance of heraldic ornament. It was thought appropriate to decorate it with uncouth emblematic figures, — with Flora and Pomona, with bears and lions, with cupids and nymphs, — and this fashion continued long after the full measure of Classical proportion had been attained by the architects. Fine examples of alabaster inlaid with coloured marbles are at Loseley and at Cobham, and others in plain freestone are at Haddon and at South Wraxall. Some magnificent mantelpieces were in London, and a few rescued from old city mansions are at South Kensington; but the destroyer has of late years been very busy among them, and soon there will be few, if any, left. There is one where we should least expect to find it : in one of the new rooms in the western buildings adjoining Westminster Hall. It is said to have come fron-i the Star Chamber. A very fine example is in a bedroom at Knole, and has a pointed arch. At Postlip in Gloucestershire, a fine armorial mantelpiece of the local stone is figured by Nash. One of oak, at Speke in Lancashire, is dated 1598, and there is a beautiful chimneypiece in the Charter House. It would be easy to multiply examples : they occur even in comparatively small SOUTH WRAXALL Tlie Begimiiiigs of Pal Indian 87 houses, such as Cheney Court, near Box, Wiltshire, a dower-house of the Spekes of Hazlebury, where the stone chimneypieces rise to the ceiHng and are carved with armorial bearings. Nothing but some very untrustworthy engravings remain of Gresham's Royal Exchange. He undoubtedly brought over Flemish artists to design and build it, and he also probably brought Haveus, the architect, who is already mentioned as having been employed on the tomb of Anne of Cleves. Mr. Papworth speaks of him as "Theodore Haveus, or Heave, of Cleves." To him is attributed, rightly or wrongly, the first distinctly Classical building in England — Caius College at Cambridge. The authorities of that University, some twenty or thirty years ago, seem to have gone on a crusade against what was ancient or interesting in the fabric of their colleges and public buildings. At Pembroke they destroyed the oldest relics in the University, and employed a modern architect to lengthen Wren's chapel — a vandalism of which we shall have more to say. Other atrocities followed ; and finally, as a crown to the whole movement, the precious, unique, exquisitely -proportioned little buildings of Caius were handed over to the tender mercies of the same hand which had ruined Pembroke. The new front is de- scribed by the guides as "in the French chateau style," or " that of the French baronial mansions of Francis I.," whatever it may be. Without seeing it, one would say that nothing more inappro- priate for the situation could possibly be conceived than a French country chateau in the centre of Cambridge, in close proximity to two of the greatest architectural ornaments of the University, — King's College chapel and the Senate House, — to say nothing of its interference with the oldest, and in some respects the best Italian buildings in England. But there is little of the French 88 Modcni ArcJiifccfiirc in England or any other style about the new building. The whole thing must come down, and will, when the College or University authorities return to their senses ; but even pulling down will not restore the chapel or the " Gate of Humility." This gate opened into the College from the street, and was part of a scheme of symbolism very characteristic of the Eliza- bethan age. By humility the earnest student was to approach his work. It is now in Senate House Passage, or so much of it as was preserved at the removal. We need not describe it, as we have no guarantee that it resembles the original erection, and, judging from analogy and experience, have every reason to suppose it is as much altered as any other. But the second of these symbolical gates is fairly intact ; and, as the very first building in an avowedly Italian style, it is of such transcendent interest in architectural history that its preservation by the present Cambridge arbiters of taste is little short of a miracle. It is, in point of date, the oldest of the three, having been built in 1565 ; as we read : " On Saturday, the 5th of May, in the year of our Lord 1565, at four in the morning, after offering up prayers to God that our College might enjoy both a prosperous commencement and eventual success, and that all its members might prove men of integrity, lovers of literature, serviceable to the state, and fearing God, we laid the first and sacred stone of the foundation." The date is given wrongly in most books on Cambridge, as Mr. J. \V. Clark has proved. It was finished in 1567, and has two inscriptions : one on the eastern side, " Virtutis " ; and one on the western, "Jo: Caius posuit Sapientice." There are two pilasters of the Ionic order, but the archway between is pointed. Above are two storeys with " cottage-headed " Gothic windows, and above them a pediment. GATE OF HONOUR, CAIUS COLLEGE. N The Beginnings of Palladian 91 At the south side is a turret set corner-wise and surmounted by a small crocketed stone cupola. The whole composition is extremely picturesque, and it adds to our interest to know that Dr. Caius resided in the rooms over the gate until just before his death, which happened during a visit to London in July 1573. His body was buried in the chapel, on the north wall of which is a beautiful alabaster monument with Corinthian columns and a canopy. The inscription is simply, " Fui Caius," and round the frieze of the canopy are the words " Vivit Post Funera Virtus." This monument, in accordance with what has already been observed, is in a much more advanced style than any of the College buildings. The chapel which it ornamented has been repeatedly altered and "restored"; and the east end, with its Ionic columns and broken pediment, has been replaced by an apse designed by Mr. Waterhouse in his " French chateau style." The monument of Dr. Caius was removed from his grave and placed high up on the wall near the chancel in 1637. The justly famous " Gate of Honour" was not built till after the death of Dr. Caius. He is said to have dictated the design o to his architect before his death. It is curious to observe in architecture, as in many other arts, that first attempts are often so good. In Egypt, the sculpture of a period so remote that it cannot be dated is not only the best of its kind, but many sculptors and others have acknowledged that a diorite statue of a king — the first royal statue In the world — has never been surpassed. So too, in our own country, some works of the thirteenth century, erected while pointed architecture was in its infancy, remain unapproached. This first effort to build in the new style long stood by itself. There was nothing to compete with it. In the present state of architectural taste it is 92 Modern Architecture in Englami not likely, in our day at least, to be surpassed. In Ireland, some of the recent buildings in Kildare Street, Dublin, though, like those in Cambridge, small in size, vie with anything built in London since the wanton ruin of Burlington House. The Gate of Honour is usually dated in 1574-75. ^^ consists of a gateway, a storey of the Corinthian order, with a pediment, and a plain stone cupola, hexagonal in plan, so as to give a very pleasing and varied effect. The whole building is not above 30 feet in height. The lowest storey is, architecturally, the most interesting ; for in the pointed doorway we see the efforts of the old Gothic tradition, still prevailing doubtless among the workmen employed, endeavouring to accommodate itself to the Italian views of the architect. Heave, or Haveus, who has been already mentioned, was probably the architect both of this gate and of the others ; but it is now impossible to be certain. The Gate of Honour is, of course, dwarfed by the great buildings now surrounding it, but groups well with James Gibbs's Senate House. The fashion set by Caius at Cambridge was soon followed in other parts of England. Little Shelford in Essex was built for Sir Horatio Pallavicini in or about 1576, and is described as "the first house purely Italian." Some additions to Windsor Castle, now part of the Royal Library, are of this period ; and the interior shows purely Italian details. The other examples speedily become too numerous to be mentioned singly ; and the names of great architects — Hawthorne, Thorpe, the two Shutes, Smithson, and some who seem to have been simply builders, or, as we should say, contractors, like Warde, Williams, and Hall, who are all mentioned as working in Elizabeth's reign — have come down to us. Burghley, Hatfield, Cobham, Holdenby, The Beginnings of Palladian 93 Lyveden, WoUaton, Kirby, and many hundreds of smaller houses still testify to the originality of their taste, and to their eye for the picturesque : a quality never forgotten, even when they tried to conform to the Palladian rules as newly interpreted to them. The four books of Architecture were first published at Venice in 1570, and rapidly became known in England. In 1550, John Shute had been sent to study in Italy by John Dudley, the ill- fated Duke of Northumberland; and in 1563 he published his First and Chief Grounds of Architecture. It was reprinted in 1579 and in 1584, and must have exercised a great influence on the taste of the time. In a dedication to Queen Elizabeth, he says his work had been approved of by King Edward VI., " whose delectation and pleasure was to see it and such like " ; and he goes on to say that having made many sketches, — " trickes and devises " he calls them, — he thinks it well to publish some of them for the profit of other people, and adds, "Wherein I do follow not onelie the writinges of learned men, but also do ground myselfe on my own experience and practise, gathered by the sight of the Monumentes in Italy." There is a volume of Thorpe's drawings, chiefly details, in the Soane Museum. Before the end of Queen Elizabeth's reign, namely, in 1578, Lomazzo's Trattato deir arte delta Pictnra, Scultura, et Architectural printed at Milan in 1585, was translated and published in English by Richard Haydocke. This book was dedicated to Sir Thomas Bodley, who about the same time was engaged in rebuilding Duke Humphrey's library at Oxford. There is a frontispiece or engraved title with portrait of "Jo. Paul Lomatius " and his translator Haydocke, who is described as a " Student in Physick." The title runs thus : A Trade containing tlie Artes of curious Paintinge, Carving, and Buildinge. 94 Modern Arcliitcctiire in England There can be no doubt that these publications influenced the mind of a youth who, born in 1573, was destined to do more than any one else to commend the Palladian style of architecture to his countrymen ; but before we proceed to examine the career of Inigo Jones, it may be well to pause and answer such simple questions as : What are the elements of Palladian, and how does it chiefly differ from the styles in vogue before it, and especially that one which, for want of a better name, we call Gothic ? There is a strong similarity in all good architecture. The impression to be produced by a building should be threefold. We should be able to see in it harmony of proportion, an ex- pression of stability, and, thirdly, ornament. In other words, a building with architectural pretensions ought to be so propor- tioned in plan, in elevation, and in parts to the whole, that, with- out anything else, it should give to the mind of the spectator, through his eyes, such a feeling of pleasure as he derives from a grand or sweet musical composition, or a sublime piece of poetry, or a beautiful painting. This impression is rare, but not transient. It is constantly renewed by the same object, even though that object presents itself differently to different minds. Long before I began to analyse it, I used, at .some trouble and expense, to go out of my way to obtain the pleasure of a passing glimpse of Salisbury Cathedral. In poetry, can any one forget the first read- ing of, say, Mrs. Browning's exquisite lyric, " He giveth His beloved sleep " .'' There are not many harmonious pictures painted at the present day, but who can see the Ansidei Madonna without pleasure, or look at the delicately balanced colours of the Waterloo Van Eyck without a thrill? When the poet wrote : TJie Bcginiiiugs of Palladia n 95 My love is like a red red rose That sweetly blows in June : My love is like a melody That's softly played in tune, he might well have gone further and taken a third simile from architecture. He might have added that she resembled a Gothic spire or a tapering marble column. There v^^ould have been good precedent in the Song of Solomon, where the hero is compared to the tower of David, builded for an armoury, and his nose is likened to " the tower of Lebanon which looketh toward Damas- cus." But so do all the arts, if only they are true, unite with poetry, and display essentially the same qualities. These things, then, harmony and proportion, which are so necessary in music, painting, and poetry, are still more necessary in architecture. We are told that So-and-so does not admire Gothic architecture, or does not admire Classical and the rest of it. But this is pure rubbish. No cultivated man can admire bad architecture, by what name soever its author may call it. If the man who does not admire Classical architecture sees the Parthenon, he straightway admires it — he cannot help himself So, too, we expect in good architecture, Classic or Gothic, or anything else, to see stability. A building should look secure. You should feel when you approach it that it will not fall on your head. Wren said building should be for eternity. Lastly, a building should be ornamental. By "ornamental " I do not mean "covered with ornament." It is surprising how little applied ornament has to do with beauty. There are ware- houses in the City, of recent growth, which are among the most monstrously hideous erections the world has ever seen, and yet are almost built of ornaments. One is in my mind at this 96 Modern Architecture in England nionient — a monument of deformity and ugliness. It has no harmony, no look of stability, no real ornament. It has marble columns, but they are of a length so contrary to all the rules, that even their bronze gilt caj^itals will not redeem them from offensive ugliness. Everything else is of the same character. The architect, who, by the way, has carved his name on a corner- stone, must either have been absolutely ignorant of his art, or else have wished to try if Palladian rules could be violated with impunity. One grudges to see such costly materials wasted. This is only one of a hundred examples which may be counted in a few minutes' walk through the City. Proportion is as necessary to Gothic as to Classic, and the present degradation of architec- ture is almost wholly attributable to its disuse. A curious example occurs in a book in which we should not look for it. Professor J. Henry Middleton, in his work on Illiiiiiinatcd Manu- scripts, says : " The sixteenth-century tapestry in the great hall at Hampton Court is a striking example of the way in which gigantic figures may destroy the scale of an interior." The mediaeval architects had very strict rules of proportion at first. In the plain Early English or First Pointed style it was necessary. This is particularly visible in Salisbury Cathedral and may also be seen in the beautiful church of Climping in Sussex, and in the slightly more highly ornamented church of Skelton in Yorkshire. As time went on, architects seem to have thought too much of carving and decoration, with a cor- responding degradation of their style ; but there is excellent proportion displayed in some Perpendicular churches, as for example Wakefield, Newark, and Coventry, and there are in- numerable proofs that the architects studied it carefully. At the so-called Gothic revival of fifty years ago, proportion The Beginnings of Palladiau 97 fell into disuse, and a disastrous effect has been produced upon design by the idea that detail alone is important. Few architects of the revival escaped it. Hardwick, in his hall of Lincoln's Inn, though it has since been much changed and spoilt by another architect, and his Philological School in the Marylebone Road, proves the need of proportion even in Gothic work. St. Luke's, Chelsea, built by Savage in 1820, — the first revived Gothic church in London, — shows excellent proportions, though poor and even bad in details. But the great safety of the Palladian style lay in the strictness of its rules. What was often done by chance in Gothic was made certain in the style of the Renascence. An architect might not be a genius, but so long as he took care not to transgress the proportions laid down for him, his building could not but avoid any gross error. The main difference, in England at least, between the old and the new schools, was the attention paid to proportion b)' the greatest architects, the introduction of columns and pilasters instead of buttresses, and a system of fenestration suited to the improvement in the manufacture of glass. Tracery in windows was discarded as no longer necessary, though it lingered in many places in the shape of those cross-mullioned windows which we see in Brympton House, which is very probably by Inigo Jones. The columns and pilasters had to follow certain patterns, and were of so many diameters according to the order. Cornices, which in the hands of Inigo Jones and Wren became so marvel- lously ornamental, superseded the parapets, pierced or embattled, of the Gothic architect ; and the most beautiful of all the features of the style, the portico, gave us such varieties of charm as we see in St. Paul's, St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, St. George's, Blooms- bury, and many other buildings, religious and secular. The o 98 Modem Architecture in England portico, as we see it in Apsley House and many other buildings, was a useless excrescence, meaningless and expensive ; but such things belong rather to the " Grecian " period, to which I shall refer later on. There was another reason why Palladian became popular. It is pre-eminently the style for the Protestant church. No church of the so-called Gothic revival equals in convenience for congregational worship even such a comparatively poor building as St. James's, Piccadilly, while Gibbs's St. Mary le Strand is everything that a church should be. P^or domestic purposes, it obtained a strong hold ; and where no very prominent architectural treatment was required, survived till very lately, local builders where good stone abounded having inherited certain tradi- tions. But these traditions, under the influence of the modern architect, who thinks ornament, and not proportion, is the most important element in architecture, are fast fading away. The anomalous style has come into existence ; and some of the most hideous buildings ever laid as burdens upon the earth have been and are being erected. As Garbett said forty years ago, in his Principles of Design, of the architect of his day, " He makes a change not for the sake of Truth, but for the sake of change." The great Italian architect, Palladio, constituted himselt the prophet of Vitruvius. It is needful, in order to understand fully the learned architectural style, that we should know who these two remarkable men were. Andrea Palladio, born in 1518, being fond of architecture, as he tells us himself, from his youth, was particularly attracted by the buildings of the ancient Romans. In his opinion, they excelled all who have been since their time in building well. He therefore proposed to himself Vitruvius, the only Roman writer on architecture, as his "master and guide." The Begiiuiings of Pal la di an 99 His book on Architecture was published at Venice in 1570. In that city, always remarkable for its architecture, Sansovino was already practising. As Palladio says in his preface, it was in Venice that " Messer Giacomo Sansovino, a celebrated sculptor and aj-chitect, first began to make known the beautiful manner, as is seen (not to mention many other beautiful works of his) in the new Procuratia, which is the richest and most adorned edifice that perhaps has been made since the ancients." The book of Palladio was several times translated and printed in England ; and Lord Burlington, having given Isaac Ware, him- self a good architect, leave to see and use the original drawings of Palladio in his collection, Ware was induced to have some of them engraved, and to publish a folio volume dedicated to Lord Burlington, and, indeed, revised by that nobleman, which contains the four books of Palladio. The first relates to the five orders ; the second describes some houses he had built, with comparisons with those of the Greeks and Latins ; the third is concerned with bridges, piazzas, roads, and other works more like engineer- ing than building ; and the fourth treats of the ancient Roman remains still extant in Italy. Palladio was born and lived chiefiy at Vicenza, where he died in 1580. M. Quatremere de Quincy says of him, that his good taste led him to take the utmost pains with his plans, to adapt his designs to the wants of the time and to moderate means ; that he knew how to make a building grand without grand dimensions, and rich without great expense. He adds, that the taste of Palladio found a second home in England, where Inigo Jones, Christopher Wren, James Gibbs, Burlington, Chambers, and many others naturalised his plans, his facades, the happy adjustment of his forms, his profiles, his proportions, and his details. His best work is now to be seen lOO Modern Architecture in England at Vicenza ; Ouatremere figures his Basilica there, as does Fergusson, as well as his Villa del Capra. To give an idea of his teaching, we may quote from Ware's translation the whole THIENI PALACE, VICENZA. 1!Y PALLADIO. of a chapter headed " Of the five orders made use of by the ancients." "The Tuscan, Dorick, lonick, Corinthian, and Composite, are the five orders made use of by the ancients. These ought to be so disposed in a building, that the most solid may be placed TJic Bcgiiiuiiigs of Palladian lOI undermost, as being the most proper to sustain the weight, and to give the whole edifice a more firm foundation ; therefore the Dorick must always be placed under the lonick, the lonick under the Corinthian, and the Corinthian under the Composite. The Tuscan, being a plain, rude order, is therefore very seldom ALMERICO PALACE, VICENZA. BY PALLADIO. used above ground, except in villas, where one order only is employed. In very large buildings, as amphitheatres and such like, where many orders are required, this, instead of the Dorick, may be placed under the lonick. But if you are desirous to leave out any of these orders, — as, for instance, to place the Corinthian immediately over the Dorick, — you may, provided you always observe to place the most strong and solid undermost, for the reasons above mentioned. The measures and proportions of each of these orders I shall separately set down ; not so much I02 Modern Architecture in En (flan d according to Vitruvius, as to the observations I have made on several ancient edifices. But I shall first mention such particulars as relate to all of them in general." This chapter from the first book will give a very good idea of the views he endeavoured to impress upon his pupils. Inigo "^ "^ f" ' I T'*' f*** *'**i rT" \\\ \\\\i MOCENIGO P.M.ACK. 1)Y rAU.AUIO. Jones, we know, had a copy of his book, and no doubt profited by seeing his buildings at Vicenza, Verona, Venice, and other places, as well as those also which he specially praises by Vasari and Sansovino. Very little is known of Vitruvius, e.xcept that he must have lived in the time of Augustus, to whom he dedicated his ten books concerning Architecture — the only Roman work on the subject which has come down to us. From certain allusions he o < -5 _ « z I z o z o o o The Beginnings of Palladian 105 was an old man when he wrote, and was, moreover, a man of short stature. For purposes of reference, it may be worth while to give the principal measurements of the different orders in use among the architects of the school of Palladio. It should be premised that different architects affected not only different orders, but different proportions : Wren, for example, using one— the Tuscan Doric— in many varieties of proportion. For the Tuscan, Sir William Chambers laid down the following proportions : " 7^he height of the column is fourteen modules, or seven diameters ; that of the whole entablature three modules and a half, which being divided into ten equal parts, three are for the height of the architrave, three for the frieze, and the remaining four for the cornice : the capital is in height one module : the base, including the lower cincture (which is peculiar to the measurement of this order) of the shaft, is also one module, and the shaft, with its upper cincture and astragal, is twelve modules : in interior decoration, the height of the column may be fourteen modules and a half, or even fifteen modules." It was probably this possible variation m the length of the Tuscan column which made it such a favourite with Wren. The proportions of the Ionic order are stated as follows : The height of the column is eighteen modules, and that of the entablature four and a half, or one quarter the height of the column : if we divide the entablature into ten equal parts, three are for the architrave, three for the frieze, and four for the cornice. There is much variety in different examples of the capital. I' io6 Modern .1 n/iihriiirc in Enghmd The Corinthian order has the same proportions, speaking generally, as the Ionic, but the capital claims an entire diameter. In the Composite style, the column may be as much as twenty modules. In concluding a long chapter, I cannot do better than quote some expressions made use of by Professor Banister I-'letchcr in opening the class of Architecture at King's College in 1890. That they should have been necessary, is in itself remarkable : that they should, apparently, have produced no effect, is a melancholy sign of the present state of the art among us : "A building without proportion is utterly, hopelessly bad. A building, no matter how simple, if in proportion, is good and pleasing. A building in good proportion, and with ornamented construction, is to be desired, and will give pleasure. No amount of ornament, or even ornamented construction, is of any avail ill producing a pleasing effect without proportion. Proportion, then, is the very life-blood of Architecture. " INIGO JONES V INIGO JONES A List— Parentage and Name— Birth and Baptism— Visits Italy — A Landscape Painter Proportion — In Denmark —With Prince Henry— A Scene Painter — Surveyor-General— Numerous Drawings — Method of Working— Stage Experi- ence—Arch Row, Lincoln's Inn Fields — Greenwich — Somerset House— York House— Jones and Stone— New Palace of Whitehall— Design for James I.— Design for Charles I.— The Banqueting Hall— A Reredos— Old St. Paul's— St. Paul's, Covent Garden — Ashburnham House — Country Houses — School of Inigo Jones — Death and Burial The career of Inigo Jones has already been made the subject of remark in this book, when I had occasion to mention his Gothic work. We have but meagre particulars of his life and training. Under what master he learned to design in so pure a style we cannot tell ; but we can judge from his Gothic work that the eye for proportion, in which he excelled all his contemporaries and most of his successors, was both born in him and also sedulously cultivated. We have reason, moreover, to believe that he was a good draughtsman, though it is by no means certain that all the drawings in -the Devonshire and other collections are actually by his hand. Of his buildings, few remain, and still fewer are intact. He certainly made some designs for Wilton, and a bridge there is undoubtedly his. At Widcombe, close to Bath, there is a small, but beautiful manor-house always locally ascribed to him ; but it is apparently later. I have mentioned his Gothic I lo Modern .Irchitectitre in England O U Ini go Jones i35 The following more technical description is mainly taken from Brayley. The portico on the eastern front consists of two lofty columns and two square piers of similar character, support- ing an angular pediment. The pillars diminish considerably towards the capitals. The interior is very plain ; the chief entrance being from the west end. The ceiling is flat. The Tuscan style allowed the frieze to be dispensed with, and other elements of cost to be omitted ; while the projection of the roof enabled the architect to obtain considerable picturesqueness, as well as dignity. The roof, covered with slate, was formerly of tiles, which must have added greatly to the effect. Fergusson, whose praise of this building is not very warm, adds sensibly: " No one can mistake its being a church ; and it would be extremely difficult, if possible, to quote another in which so grand an effect is produced by such simple means." There is no doubt as to Inigo's own opinion. He desired, by his will, that on his monument in the church of St. Benet, Paul's Wharf, should be placed views in relief of the portico of St. Paul's and of the church of Covent Garden. Ashburnham House stands within Little Dean's Yard at Westminster. Its exterior is of brick, unrelieved by ornamental features. At one time, as in all Jones's work, the proportions were sufficient to call attention to it ; but the addition of a storey, and other changes, deprived it even of this characteristic. The last canon who lived in it seems to have done his best to preserve what was left. It now belongs to the school, and is taken excellent care of, and freely shown. The late Sir Gilbert Scott is said to have doubted that it was designed by Jones ; in other words, he wanted to pull it down, but additional proofs have come to hand. Nevertheless, it is right to mention that Batty 136 Modern Ajxliitccturc in England Langley, in 1737, says it was built by Webb from Jones's designs. To this opinion Mr. Marks also seems to incline. The hall is not remarkable, being merely a well-proportioned rectangular apartment. The staircase, which opens from it on the eastern side, is the principal feature of the design. The house, it is clear, was built on part of the site of the Refectory of Westminster Abbey ; and a thick wall of mediaeval masonry divides it longitudinally. Remains of something like a buttery hatch still remain on the ground - floor. The staircase is described in precise language in Britton and Pugin's Edifices (ii. 90). " Of nearly a square shape, with four ranges of steps, placed at right angles one with the other, and as many landings, it was the passage from the ground to the first floor. Its sides are panelled against the wall, and guarded by a rising balustrade : the whole is crowned by an oval dome, springing from a bold and enriched entablature supported by a series of twelve columns. At the landing are fluted Ionic columns." The uppermost landing gives access to a dining-room by a very deep doorway cut through the refectory wall. The alcove in the dining-room Is by a later hand. Another doorway admits to the anteroom ; and that, by a beautiful doorway, to the drawing-room, in which there is a richly ornamented ceiling by Inigo, formerly sur- mounted by a small oval dome or lantern, removed no doubt when the upper storey was added to the building. Views of Ashburnham House, within and without, appear in many books, such as Ware, Batty Langley, Smith's Westminster, Britton and Pugin, and others. The staircase has been many times imitated ; and certainly no better model can be conceived. It has been introduced also into pictures. Mr. Laslett Pott makes it the ?,c&nQ. o'i\{\'~, Disinherited. Sir John Soane had large drawings z J o I ni go Jones 139 made of it for his lectures at the Royal Academy. They are now with the lectures in the Soane Museum. There are five views of Ashburnham House in the series published by the Society for Photographing Relics of Old London. A house in St. Martin's Lane, No. 31, is said to be by Jones, but is not very interesting. In 1634, he designed a monument for St. Giles's-in-the-Fields to commemorate his friend, George Chapman the poet. He is also often credited with the stables of Kensington Palace, then Nottingham House ; but it is pretty certain that for " Kensington " we should read Kennington, where Prince Henry had a house. Charlton House, near Greenwich, is also attributed to him, with the Fellows' Lodgings, Christ's College, Cambridge, and with Brympton, a manor-house in Somerset. A portion of Brympton is very like his work. In the country, Jones's best piece of work is a little Ionic bridge at Wilton, exactly imitated by Wood at Prior Park, near Bath. He carried out some work at Wilton House, but not very much ; and both there and at Amesbury and Greenwich, buildings from his design were executed after his death by Webb. The central block of Cobham Hall, near Gravesend, containing the beautiful Music Room, is always, though without absolute proof, attributed to him. It groups charmingly with the older work, with its engaged Corinthian columns, its cornice and its doorway. At Cambridge, the Pepysian Library at Magdalen has been very doubtfully assigned to him ; and at Oxford, the beautiful porch of St. Mary's Church. A porch at Magdalen used to be called his. It was destroyed some years ago, and a so-called Gothic design by Pugin substituted. It is very ugly and unsuitable. There is a gateway in the Botanic Gardens, opposite Magdalen College, which resembles his work. 140 Modern Architectitrc in England Two or three country houses are, or have been, very like his work. Of Coleshill in Berkshire we cannot be sure, though it is positively asserted to have been built by Jones in 1650, and certainly looks very like his handiwork. Lord Burlington believed in Coleshill, and employed Ware to make drawings of it (see Vit. Brit. v. 86). A gateway at Holland House is by Jones, having been carved by Stone, and another gateway, removed from Beaufort House, Chelsea, was presented by Sir Hans Sloane to Lord Burlington, and is now at Chiswick. The best authorities as to the life and work of this great artist are not to be found in the most popular books. Peter Cunningham wrote a biography which is esteemed the best, but it is rather scarce ; and as Cunningham, though he knew London well, was no architectural critic, we are sometimes at a loss. The best account of Inigo Jones is undoubtedly that in the studiously dry article, written anonymously, in the Dictionary of National Biography. It is so crammed with facts and dates that it literally took me three days' hard work "to make it up." It is almost without criticism, and the reader can therefore learn only half, and that the least important half, of Jones's strange story from it. Nevertheless, two very different, though intimately associated, kinds of readers are interested in it. We turn to it to learn about the history of London ; and we turn to it also to help us to a clear understanding of the chief architectural problems of that day. The Civil War prevented Inigo Jones from founding what would now be called a school, but he left traditions ; and his loyal friend and executor, John Webb, took care, when settled times came again, that the great teacher's name should not be forgotten. With a rare generosity, while he constantly used the designs left to him that they might be used, o H 0. Inigo Jones 143 he as constantly attributed them to " the vanished hand," and did not even claim some designs in which his own share must have been by far the largest. The Civil War put a stop to all artistic development, and we have nothing like the brilliant following which Wren left : no Hawksmoor, Gibbs, Kent, or Burlington. A very good and appreciative account of the works of Jones appeared in the Portfolio in 1888, from the pen of Mr. Reginald Blomfield. His popularity and fame as a great architect are curiously attested by the existence, as late as the middle of the eighteenth century, of a house in the Strand called after him. Dart's great work, the Cathedral of Canterbury, was published in 1726 by "J. Smith, at Inego Jones's Head, near the Fountain Tavern." His last years fell on troubled times. He followed Charles to Oxford at the outbreak of the war, and is said to have lent the King a sum of money. We next find him shut up in Basing House while it was besieged by Cromwell. He was able to prove that he was not there as a belligerent, and eventually got off with a fine of ^545 and a payment of ^500 to compound for his estate. On the 2ist June 1652, having been in declining health for some time, he died at Somerset House in the Strand. He had never married, and the bulk of his property went to cousins, one of whom had married John Webb, who was a good architect himself and had much assisted Inigo in his later years. He inherited all his drawings and designs with an express idea that they should be kept together, as they were indeed at first ; but William Webb, John's son, seems to have been careless of them. Clarke's collection of the drawings was bought from William's widow, and was left in 1730 to Worcester College. Kent and 144 Modern Architectinr in Rugland his friend Lord Ikirlington also formed a large collection, which has lately been removed, I hear, to Chatsworth ; but the Duke of Devonshire exhibited a great many at the Burlington Club in 1884, and some more at the Royal Institute of Architects in 1892. From Somerset House, Jones's remains were removed to St. Benet's, Paul's Wharf, where they were buried with those of his father, the Welshman. By a curious coincidence, St. Benet's was selected a few years ago for the use of a Welsh congregation, who opened it for their service in 1867. But the actual church in which Inigo was buried was destroyed in the Great Fire ; and the present one was built by Wren in 1683. It is in red brick, and very picturesque, with carved festoons over the windows. Inigo left ;^ioo for his monument, as well as ^10 to the poor, and /lOO for his funeral expenses. The monument, in marble, was of course destroyed with the church ; but the burial is recorded in the register, 26th June 1652. In concluding this chapter, I must refer the reader to some expressions made use of by Mr. Blomfield in the articles already referred to as having appeared in the Portfolio in 1888. I quote them because Mr. Blomfield is a practical architect, which I am not ; and 1 wish to show that what I have said as to the chief merit of Inigo Jones, his sense of proportion, and as to its neglect at the present day, is not too strong. Mr. Blomfield observes that " in all his studies, the one point on which he concentrated his energies was proportion." He resolved designs into their constituent parts. He showed, for instance, that the Temple of Jupiter " was based on a series of circles, and its proportions arrived at by dividing the largest diameter into six parts and variously recombining the parts. No man saw more clearly that proportion is the keystone of architecture." Mr. Blomfield c c/] w ►J O u Inigo Jones 147 asserts truly that what " values " are to the painter, proportions are to the architect ; and he follows with a passage which I am glad he has written and not I, though I agree with every word of it, and could adopt it as the motto or argument of this whole volume. " The Renaissance of the nineteenth century does not readily take to drudgery ; it prefers its own conceits to such self- abnegation, and finds it an easier and more remunerative busi- ness to play to that insatiable craving for the picturesque which can only end by degrading the profoundest and most permanent of the arts into a mere affair of fashions. It is significant," he continues, "that in his working drawings it was Inigo Jones's custom to make a sketch, and then specify all the proportions of the design in writing at the side. Our habit is to arrive at our proportions in the process of making the drawing." VI WREN VI WREN Wren and Oliver Cromwell — Wren and Webb — The Chapel of Pembroke College, Cambridge — The Sheldonian Theatre — The Library, Trinity College, Cambridge — Wren at Paris — The Great Fire — Windsor — Chelsea — Greenwich — Tlie Monument — Hampton Court — Kensington. Wren was twenty when Inigo died. We have a somewhat pleasing picture of him about this time ; but it does not connect him with architecture. He had already, at Cambridge, made himself a name as a mathematical student, had devised an astronomical instrument, and dabbled successfully in poetry. In 1644, Evelyn met him, and describes him as "that miracle of a youth." Miss Phillimore, in her book on S/r Christopher Wren, conjectures that he must have met Inigo Jones, whose portico at St. Paul's he spoke of as "an exquisite piece in itself" When he came to live in London, he made acquaintance with Cromwell's son - in - law, Claypole, and through him with Cromwell himself, who offered to release Wren's uncle, Matthew Wren, the old Bishop of Ely, who had long lain in the Tower. But the Bishop would not accept the Protector's terms, and continued a prisoner during the brief remainder of Cromwell's life. Architecture was at a stand-still ; yet it would seem that during the Commonwealth Wren studied it, and with the same 152 Modern Arcliifcctnir in England earnestness which he brought to every pursuit in which he engaged. Astronomy was, however, his chief object ; and he was appointed Savilian professor at Oxford the year after the Restoration, and employed himself in making a lunar telescope. The same year, 1661, he was created both D.C.L. at Oxford and LL.D. at Cambridge. That he was known to have made some progress in architecture is proved by an event which connects his name in an interesting way with that of Inigo Jones. While Inigo was yet alive, the King had given, or sold, the reversion of his office as Surveyor-General of Works, to Sir John Denham. The office was a barren one during the Commonwealth ; but at the Restoration many things had to be done for which Denham was wholly unfit. Evelyn char- acterises him as "better poet than architect." Webb, Jones's pupil, assisted him, informally, we may suppose, and had a promise of the reversion of the office. Webb seems to have died before Denham ; and when Charles decided to complete the building of the palace at Greenwich, it is probable that Evelyn recommended Wren to the King. He did not come to the office ignorant of architecture, and had now a great opportunity of putting his skill to the test. How he had learned to design, we may judge by a piece of architectural work, the first in which he was ever engaged. This was the chapel of Pembroke College at Cambridge. Bishop Matthew Wren, his uncle, on emerging from the Tower, where he had been imprisoned for eighteen years, determined, as a thank-offering, to build a new chapel for his old college, and employed his nephew to make the plans. A sum of ^^5000 was set apart ; but the chapel only cost ^3658. The old chapel, repaired, became the library ; and the new one was consecrated Wren 153 by Bishop Wren, and appropriately dedicated to St. Matthew on the festival of that saint (21st September), 1665. It was a very interesting building, and of great importance in the history of architecture ; for Christopher Wren, following, as well as he could, whatever he may have imbibed from Webb and others of the tradition of Inigo Jones, endeavoured to make it beautiful by proportion alone, and without ornament. In this effort he succeeded completely : the chapel of Pembroke for two hundred years remained a standing protest against the work of architects who, knowing nothing about proportion, sought to cover their ignorance with excessive and unmeaning ornament. Naturally, it was e.xceedingly obnoxious to the architects of the Gothic revival, who of course professed to see no merit in it whatever. In 1S81, the authorities of the College, who had already destroyed their ancient hall, the oldest building of the University, allowed a modern architect to enlarge it. This he did by adding 20 feet to its length, and by stripping the plaster from the exterior. The result is extremely curious, and well worthy of study. What was, from its perfect proportions, one of the most satisfactory buildings in Cambridge, at once declined into an unmeaning rectangular structure, too long for its width and height, but otherwise rather insignificant. The College authorities escaped a greater danger, as one architect had wanted to pull it down altogether. At the reconsecration of the chapel, the service was used which, with certain pecu- liarities, Bishop Wren had used at the original ceremony. Meanwhile Wren, in the ordinary course of the business of his office under Denham, had an excellent opportunity of further studying the work of Inigo Jones. He was called upon to repair the ravages of the Puritans at St. Paul's. Already he X 154 Modern Architecture in England projected "a dome or rotunda, and upon the cupola, for outward ornament, a lantern with a spring top to rise proportionately." It would be interesting to know what he meant here by "pro- portionately " ; but had his views been carried out, the pro- portions would probably have been altered by some Gothic architect of our own day, unconscious that proportion has anything to do with architecture. The Great Plague stopped all work in the city ; and before it could be resumed, the Great Fire came and ruined the old church. In 1664, Dean Barwick had "laid his own relics in those of his church," as his epitaph said, and was succeeded by Sancroft. Sheldon, who was at this time Archbishop of Canterbury, was anxious to mark his old connection with Oxford, where he had been Warden of All Souls. He accordingly com- missioned Wren to design a University Theatre ; for hitherto the "comitia" and the " encoenia " had been held in St. Mary's Church, and the jesting usual on such occasions had been carried on within the sacred walls. Evelyn visited Oxford when, as he says in his Diary, the foundations had been newly laid and the whole designed by "that incomparable genius, my worthy friend. Dr. Christopher Wren, who showed me the model, not disdaining my advice in some particulars." It was on this occasion that he found Robert Boyle, Wren, and Wallis in the tower of the schools, " with an inverted tube, or telescope, observing the discus of the sun, for the passing of Mercury that day before it ; but the latitude was so great that nothing appeared." It will be perceived that Wren did not, so far, let architecture interfere with the pursuit of his astronomical studies. His great object in the Theatre, which cost the Archbishop Wreu 1 55 _;^ 1 5,000, was to cover an area of 70 feet by 80 with a roof, unsupported by any arch or column in the interior. The roof, still one of the most extensive known, was repaired in 1802. The University press was above it in a kind of loft from 1669 to 1713 ; and books printed at Oxford bore a view of the Theatre on the title-page down to 1759. These views show a kind of louvre or cupola, similar to what Wren had placed on his chapel at Cambridge ; and there were large dormers. The turret disappeared later, but was restored or replaced by Blore about 1847. The building is said to resemble in plan the Theatre of Marcellus at Rome. The front, the first in which Wren ventured on distinct architectural features, consists of two storeys of arches and engaged Corinthian columns over a low basement. The sides and back have a rusticated lower storey ; and there is a polygonal apse. It was opened in July 1669. In 1665, the year of the Great Plague, Wren made an effort to improve his architectural education by a visit to France, where great works were at the time in progress for Louis XIV. Previously, his friend Dr. Bathurst consulted him as to some alterations at Trinity College, Oxford. A letter on the new buildings, in Elmes's Life, is remarkable for the modesty with which Wren expresses his opinions. In it he anticipates making the acquaintance of Bernini and Mansard within a fortnight. By a curious coincidence, he was also at work at Trinity College, Cambridge, where he built the' library which forms the west side of Nevile's Court, of which Dyer says in his History, " Here it was that our great master of Palladian architecture, Sir Christopher Wren, surveyed his own work, and was satisfied." This library is over a grand colonnade of Wren's favourite Roman Doric. Wright and 156 Modern Architecture in England Jones (i. 61) justly say that it is one of the noblest rooms in Europe. It is reached by a staircase of black marble, wain- scoted with cedar. " In length, this room measures no less than 1 90 feet, by a breadth of 40 feet ; the elevation being estimated at 38 feet. At the southern extremity, it is terminated by folding doors, which open to a balcony from which we have a pleasant view of the College walks and the river. The floor is paved with square slabs of black and white marble, placed diagonally ; the doorways at the two ends of the room, and the fronts of the numerous bookcases on each side, are adorned with a profusion of the most exquisite carvings, in lime wood, which are some of the choicest specimens of the works of the celebrated Gibbons." In a letter, sending some drawings to the College authorities. Wren shows his attention to detail. Of the ceiling he says: "The cornices divide the ceiling into three rows of large square panels, answering the pilasters which will prove the best fret, because in a long room it gives the most agreeable perspective." This fine building cost about ^20,000, and was a long time in hand, not being absolutely completed till the end of the century. Wren gave his services gratuitously as his subscrip- tion towards the expenses. The attached columns of the exterior are of the Ionic order. The pilasters of the interior are Corinthian. Long before the Library of Trinity College was completed, or even seriously taken in hand. Wren had paid his long-promised visit to Paris. It is a remarkable fact that he never went to Italy, and the only dome he can ever have seen before he built that of St. Paul's, must have been that placed over the church of the Sorbonne by Le Mercier. It was commenced in 1629, Wren 157 the architect, who was dead before Wren's visit to Paris, having studied in Italy. It reminds us a little of the dome of the great church at Florence, beinsf rather octasfonal than round. The first fine dome in Paris was, no doubt, that of the Invalides, by- Jules Hardouin Mansard: but it was not built till after 1680. That of the church of St. Genevieve was only raised in 1 764, long after Wren was dead. At his visit, he seems to have been immensely taken by a design of Bernini for the Louvre. He says of it : " Bernini's design of the Louvre I would have given my skin for; but the old reserved Italian gave me but a few minutes' view ; it was five little designs on paper, for which he hath received as many thousand pistoles. " Bernini's design was, however, rejected by Louis XIV., for one by a comparative amateur, the physician Perrault ; and Bernini went back to Rome, where he had already made the long semicircular colonnades of St. Peter's. Wren in his correspondence says nothing of a dome, nor does he seem to have seen Perrault's design. A curious reflec- tion here forces itself upon our minds. Did Mansard show him any sketch of his future dome of the Invalides, and did Perrault show him the coupled columns with which he was about to ornament the east front of the Louvre ? He only mentions Bernini ; and Fergusson characterises as vulgar and inartistic the design which Wren appreciates so highly. Of other archi- tects, he gives a few names, but says nothing about their works ; and Perrault is not among them. It is in the letter, published in the Parentalia, in which he so praises Bernini, that he makes use of an expression about architecture which has become proverbial, and has been already quoted in this book : " Little trinkets are in great vogue ; but 1 58 Modern Architectitre in England building ought certainly to have the attribute of eternal, and therefore the only thing incapable of new fashions." But as to the dome and the coupled columns, we know nothing. He used the dome, and used it better at St. Paul's ; and there too he used the coupled Corinthian columns of Perrault. But of all his work with coupled columns, the finest, unquestionably, is at Greenwich, where he used his favourite Roman Doric with such marvellous effect. It is impossible to believe, therefore, that he learned much, if anything, from Mansard or Perrault ; and St. Paul's, as well as Greenwich, must have proceeded from a mind uninfluenced by what he had seen in Paris, but working on lines parallel with those of the great foreign architects. It will not do, however, to assume that Wren learned nothing by his visit to the Continent. Of course he would have learned more had he been able, like Inigo Jones, to go on to Italy. But, besides architects, he mentions Van Ostal and Arnoldin as "plasterers who perform the admirable works at the Louvre " ; and Perrot, who is famous for basso-relievos : nor does he overlook the tapestry works in the Rue Gobelins, and " Mons. de la Ouintin^e," who "has most excellent skill in agriculture, planting, and gardening." In fact, he proposed, when he returned home, to perfect some observations on the state of architecture, arts, and manufactures in France : a work he, probably owing to the progress of affairs at home, never had time to accomplish. For very soon after he returned, an event occurred which was to send the whole current of his thoughts and energies into one direction for the rest of a very long. life ; namely, the Great P'ire of London. He had come back early in the spring, and Wren 1 59 was busy on the reparation of St. Paul's. He had been appointed member of a Royal Commission for the purpose, together with John Evelyn, the Bishop of London, and the Dean of St. Paul's. The steeple was pronounced to be in a dangerous condition ; and Wren, strongly supported by Evelyn, proposed to rebuild it upon new foundations with a noble cupola : "a form of building previously unknown in England." But before anything more could be done, at ten o'clock one hot Sunday night in September the Great Fire broke out. The next night it took- hold of St. Paul's, greatly helped by the wooden scaffolds. On the 7th, five days after the outbreak of the fire, Evelyn penetrated to the City, and found Inigo's beautiful portico rent in pieces, and almost the whole church, except the extreme east end, injured more or less seriously. It may be worth while here once more to combat a silly idea which has gained currency during the prevalence of the Gothic revival ; namely, that Inigo Jones in his portico, and Wren in his projected dome, were doing anything to spoil old St. Paul's. Of Inigo's portico I have said perhaps enough. It was certainly not in any way incongruous, as shown us in Hollar's well-known print in Dugdale's St. Patits. The whole nave, especially as he recased it, belonged more or less closely to the Romanesque style. In the case of the proposed dome, we do not know so much. Wren might either have made it to agree with the east or the west end, with the Pointed or the Romanesque half of the church. It is, in fact, a pity that none of his employments led him to expand, on a larger and more important scale, his beautiful Tom Tower at Oxford. A dome to old St. Paul's in that style would have been in many respects the most beautiful building in Eno-land ; and, whether contrasted with the somewhat stiff i6o Modern Architecture in England Perpendicular of the east end, or with the Corinthian portico at the west end, would have added to the beauty and interest of every view of the Cathedral. There is no occasion to dwell on the terrors or destruction of the Great Fire. We are only concerned here with the fact that it gave Wren the opportunity of displaying the resources of his eenius. After a long: and careful consideration of his work, after comparing it with that of his predecessors and con- temporaries, after throwing into the comparison the best designs made since his time — I have come to a very simple conclusion. Whatever Wren did he did as thoroughly as possible. His genius, it has been said a hundred times, consisted in taking pains. He thought out each problem as it was presented to him. His minor designs have their proportions as carefully fixed as those of the more important. Nothing is neglected that will enhance the effect. Constantly obliged to study cheap- ness, he made up for it by spending thought. His slightest design was mixed, to apply John Opie's phrase, " with brains." l>y the constant use of this ingredient, cheapness was ennobled. Among the poorest buildings in materials and size, we find such beautiful " bits " as the east end of St. Peter's upon Cornhill, or the exquisite but simple little tower of All Hallows, Bread Street, lately pulled down. The destruction of many of his City churches — a subject to which I shall have to revert in the next chapter — has shown how careful he was that each tower should have its place in relation to the towers nearest to it ; and what irremediable damage has been done, by the removal of even the smallest and poorest of them, to the general effect of the whole number. o X X u o Wren 163 We had better examine Wren's domestic and public buildings first, and his City churches in a chapter by themselves. His library at Cambridge has already been described ; but in addition he built palaces, hospitals, town halls, and private houses, all characterised by the same qualities of design and execution. The maximum of beauty, the minimum of cost, combined with the utmost stability — those were the objects at which he chiefly aimed, and aimed with success. It is not possible to range Wren's buildings of this kind in chronological order ; because most of them were undertakings of such magnitude that they went on, as I might say, perennially during a long life. Such were Greenwich Hospital, for which he made designs in or before 1695, but which was not completed till after his death ; or Hampton Court Palace, where he first went to work in 1689. He was also employed at Windsor Castle, and built the Town Hall of the royal borough. He designed, in the plainest style, the hospital for soldiers at Chelsea, the building of which went on from 1682 to 1691. But the finest of all his buildings of this kind is neither a palace nor a college, — it is the seamen's hospital at Greenwich. No one who has an eye for stately scenic effect can help feeling an enthusiasm for this beautiful work of art : the finest of the kind in Europe. Marlborough House was designed in 1709. It has had storeys added, which make its proportions no longer what Wren designed. Kensington Palace, as we now see it, is also mainly his ; mono- grams and other devices of his period being on the east and north- east side : and the Orangery, a beautiful but neglected building, as well as an alcove, now removed, were designed by him for Queen Anne. The Monument, Fish Street Hill, simple as it looks, cost Wren a great deal of thought and care. He began it in 1671. 164 Modern Architecture in England He bLiilt smaller palaces for Charles II. at Newmarket and at Winchester. The latter survives as a barrack, and though devoid of ornament, is of excellent proportions, which are enhanced by contrast with those of some later buildings adjacent. It is curious how few private houses seem to be his ; but it is impossible, either at Salisbury or Chichester, not to see his hand in some of the residences connected with the Cathedral. At Salisbury, there is a beautiful stone-fronted house on the north side of the Close, which must be his. It bears the initials C. I\I. and the date I 70 1. Another house, on the west side, also looks like his work. It is raised on a high basement, and consists only of one principal storey, in red brick with stone corners. At St. Albans, an almshouse near St. Peter's Church is probably his ; the probability being increased by the fact that Edward Strong, his master mason, is buried in the church. It is the epitaph on Strong's monument that gave rise to the saying that St. Paul's was built by one architect, under one bishop, and by one master mason. The inscription, however, only says that Strong, in company with Wren and Compton, "shared the felicity of seeing both the beginning and finishing of that stupendous fabric." This is likely enough, as his elder brother, Thomas Strong, was the first master mason ; and Compton, who was then Bishop of Oxford, was much about the court, where he was tutor to the two princesses, afterwards Queens Mary II. and Anne. It would be easy to make a large volume about Wren's domestic architecture ; but it will suffice here to notice a few only of those examples which may be singled out as having advanced taste, and added to the charms we are but now beoinninor to recognise in the "Queen Anne Style." If proportion was the ruling motive of Inigo Jones, it was still more so that of Wren. X u w w a a w O H Wren 167 Many of his buildings were absolutely devoid of ornament, and this, too, even at the beginning of his career. Chelsea Hospital was begun in 16S2. Mr. Beaver, the latest historian of Chelsea (p. 277), thus speaks of it : " With very simple materials, Wren has contrived to give us a building perfect in proportion and dignified in effect — one on which the eye dwells with pleasure. Its regularity suggests no monotony ; its simplicity, no poverty of design : it bears the stamp of genius." Another writer, Mr. L'Estrange, in his Village of Palaces (ii. 22), says of it : " Few can pass before this noble pile of buildings, without being impressed with the size, strength, and symmetry of Wren's design." For it Wren is reported to have received ^1000 : for the design of Greenwich Hospital, he refused remuneration, making his work a contribution to the charity, just as at Cambridge he had made his old college a present of his design for the noble library. Greenwich must at first have presented a very interesting problem to his mind. The conditions were as follows : The old palace of the Tudors has been pulled down ; a few frag- ments, chiefly of outbuildings, only surviving. A new palace, in a very stately style, by Webb, Inigo Jones's pupil, had not very long been built, and was still in parts incomplete, though Charles II. is said to have stayed for a time in the eastern wing. The plan was oblong ; a narrow court in the middle being entered by a low archway with a wider opening to the south. The western side was, if complete at all, only in brick, and was finished in stone by George III. The front towards the river had two porticoes, formed of four engaged Corinthian columns, supported at the corners by pilasters of the order, with a noble projecting cornice, very much in Jones's style. 1 68 Modern Architecture in England •b' Above this is now an attic storey, which, I presume, was an addition perhaps by Wren. On the eastern side the palace had a single central portico, and had the corners accentuated by pilasters. The gardens, or grounds, on this side were cut close by a broad walk or road which led from the bank of the river to a house some way off, nearer Greenwich Park. This house had originally been built for Henrietta Maria, by Inigo Jones. The basement remains, and possibly the semicircular stairway to the terrace may be of his time : otherwise, there are no architectural features left. The problem before Wren was how to work in the palace of Charles II. ; to make use of as much of the vacant space as possible between it and the Queen's House ; to arrange so as not to stop the road from the river ; to provide for a possibility of increase of accommodation equal to at least three times that of the existing palace ; and to arrange the new buildings with the old in such a way that they should not, so to speak, hide each other. All these objects he accomplished. A second building, on the east side of the road, was erected with one front to the river and another to westward, looking on the older palace, in exact, or almost exact, imitation of what Webb had built for Charles. This new " pavilion " was called after Queen Anne, in whose reign it was completed. As it was built on a line with the palace, a place where there was a kind of bay of the river, beside which stood the old chapel of the Tudor palace, was filled up, and the new foundations put upon it. Behind these two buildings, those namely of King Charles and Queen Anne, were placed two other rectangular blocks, in the western- most of which was the great dining-hall, and in the easternmost Wren 169 tlie chapel. These blocks were brought forward, almost to the Queen's roadway, and were edged on the sides facing each other with a magnificent colonnade of coupled pillars of Wren's favourite Tuscan Doric. This colonnade shows six pairs of its double columns on either side, and a long vista of 150 pairs towards the gates of the Queen's House and the Park. The effect is magical, and is greatly increased in symmetry and beauty by the domes which stand on either hand above the entrances of the chapel and the hall. If Wren had never built another dome, this pair, though not large, should have immortalised him. Coupled Composite columns are employed ; and there are " four projecting groups of columns at the quoins. The attic above is a circle without breaks, covered with the dome and terminated with the turret." This is from the official account published in 1789; but no words can give an adequate idea of the effect. Unfortunately, the works were never finished by Wren. On the west side of King William's building, a very different hand was employed. Vanbrugh is responsible for the heavy brick with coarsely-moulded stone dressings which is such an eyesore in one of the most prominent views of the Hospital. In the reign of George III. some similar work in the building of King Charles was cased in stone, but in a poor and heavy style ; and altogether, this western front, the first to greet the traveller from London by land, is the least beautiful part of the whole composition. Vanbrugh's work, of which there is more in the neighbourhood, should be a warning to those modern architects who seem so anxious to imitate his anomalous style. The dates of the different parts of Wren's work are worth noting. The hall and chapel were founded in 1696, and z 1 70 Modern ArcJiitecture in England opened in 1705. Queen Anne's building was founded in 1698, but was not finished till 1728. Not far from Greenwich is another very dignified front by Wren: Morden College, Charlton. It may be compared with the almshouse at St. Albans ; but is on a larger scale, and there are more architectural features in the courtyard with its " piazzas." Another small work in this grand but simple style is the gateway of the Middle Temple : a building little noticed till lately, but now forced into prominence by the contrast it presents, in its simplicity, proportion, and good taste, to the newer buildings which surround it. Temple Bar was a beauti- ful stone archway in Wren's best manner. It was pulled down in 1878 for reasons which have not transpired. Some said it obstructed the traffic, which cannot have been the case. It would have been easy to take the roadway past it on one side, as has been done with old gateways in Paris. The north side was open at the time. That it obstructed the traffic cannot, however, have been the reason for its removal ; as a monument, hideous in design and nearly as obstructive, has replaced it in the middle of the street. Temple Bar has been made the entrance gate of Theobalds Park in Hertfordshire, and looks extremely well there, surrounded by old oak trees ; but its loss as a dignified, beautiful, and historically interesting entrance to the City is irreparable. Wren spent a great deal of thought on the Monument. He first intended it to be an unfluted Tuscan Doric column, with flames of gilt bronze issuing from it at intervals, and on the top an urn, flaming, with a phoenix rising from it. " On second thoughts," he says, " I rejected it ; because it will be costly, not easily understood at that height, and worse understood at a i Wren 1 7 1 distance, and lastly, dangerous, by reason of the sail the spread wings will carry in the wind." A good engraving of this design was made by Hulsbergh, who also issued a large print, from a drawing by Hawksmoor, of the final design. This represents a fluted column of the same order, with a large " ^^^ and dart " moulding to crown the capital, and a statue of Charles II. on the summit. An urn was substituted for the statue, "contra architecti intentionem," says Hawksmoor. There are enlarged views of the plinth and other details in the print, which show with what care and attention each part was considered and thought out. The pillar was completed in 1677. Wren began to work at Hampton Court in 1689, ^^^ <^on- tinued to superintend the alterations and improvements until 1 7 18, when, by means of an unworthy intrigue, he was dis- missed from his office of surveyor. A very interesting design of his is printed by Mr. Ernest Law in the third volume of his History of Hampton Court. The original is still in the Office of Works. It seems to have been made in 1699. The avenue of horse-chestnuts in Bushey Park was to be made a grand approach to the palace on the north. Two wings, 300 feet long, were to be built from the great hall, with colonnades ; and the intervening offices were to be cleared away. The result would have been to make another grand scenic effect like that at Greenwich, and to give William III. a palace superior to any other in Europe. But the King died ; and though Queen Anne was much at Hampton Court, nothing was done to complete what Wren had begun. As we see it now, the mixture of Gothic and Palladian is so charming that we cannot wish it otherwise ; but, no doubt, from an architectural point of view, its incompleteness is to be regretted. The east front, as finished 172 Modern Architecture in England by Wren, is very fine, as is the Fountain Court ; while the Ionic colonnade in the Clock Court adds greatly, by contrast, to the picturesque effect of this part of the palace. The carvings everywhere are extremely good, and are worthy of separate and careful examination. The architect's initials occur on the west side of the cloisters which surround the Fountain Court ; and it is conjectured that they mark the lodgings he occupied while he was engaged here. Colley Cibber seems to have been the principal sculptor employed ; but there is occasional mention of "a Frenchman." The east front is of red brick, with stone dressings ; and, except for four Corinthian columns and a pedi- ment in the centre, is almost devoid of ornament. Wren built much in a very plain style for William III. at Kensington. Work was begun as early as 1689, but was interrupted by a fire in 1691. In 1696, Evelyn records a visit to it, and specially mentions a gallery and "a pretty private library." A good deal was added to the palace by Kent for George II., so that, as also at Hampton Court, it is not always easy to distinguish Wren's work ; but we can be sure of such parts as bear the initials of William and Mary, or of Queen Anne. As originally laid out, there was a formal garden south and east of the house. North of it was a lawn on which some cedars grew ; and apparently there was a bronze bust or statue among them. On this side also was a long walk or avenue leading to the Bayswater Road. Its southern end is marked, near the Orangery, by two fine brick piers, with carved stone ornaments. Here, it is said, William used to walk alone when in a moody humour. Looking southward is the Orangery; and the principal walks of the llower garden converged on the Alcove : a beautifiil feature, which stood facing the Orangery at PVre)i 173 some distance, its back being against the brick wall, which at that time shut off the Kensington high-road. In this Alcove, it is said that the French refugees celebrated a mass in fine summer weather. When the wall was taken down, the Alcove was senselessly removed, and placed at the other end of the gardens. It was designed to face northward, and to form the end of a vista. It is now placed facing south, about half-way up a slope, where there is no vista, and where it only serves to make more hideous the buildings about the head of the Serpentine close by. The Alcove bears the initials of Queen Anne. The Orangery is left in a melancholy state of neglect. Here Wren did his best to decorate a garden with an ornamental building ; and we see from it what he could accomplish in a style more playful than that he usually employed. The columns of the central bay are of red brick, of his favourite Doric order ; and there is very litde ornament anywhere. The result, though simple, is eminently satisfactory. It is sad to see this beautiful building used as a kind of tool-shed for the gardeners, a place for mixing manures, with a series of squalid hothouses obscuring the best view of its front. VII WREN'S CHURCHES VII WREN'S CHURCHES Obnoxious to bishops — Many destroyed — Method of procedure — Case of St. Antholin's — A monstrous falsehood — Classification — St. Paul's — Court influence — A Protestant design — ."Vn artificial design — Decorations — Parish churches — Two principal patterns — Domed churches — Gothic churches. Future historians of the architectural movements of the nine- teenth century will be sufficiently puzzled to account for the rise of the anomalous or eclectic style to occupy all their faculties. But if any time remains, they may inquire into another and still more surprising phenomenon. It is well known among foreign nations, though apparently not among ourselves, that in Wren's City churches England possesses, or, to be accurate, possessed, a treasure only comparable to the works of art at Florence and Rome : a treasure such as no other city could show. Yet, incredible as it may seem, those in authority have for more than thirty years past been making the most strenuous efforts to destroy these treasures. It is difficult, or rather, impossible, to find the reason for this course of action. Some years ago, I endeavoured to account for it by the action of superstition ; but I am assured now that I was mistaken. I can, of course, understand that the architects who are transforming the City would be glad to remove such prominent witnesses of their own incompetence. But the churches have not been pulled down 2 A 1 78 Modern Architecture in England at the instance of architects : they have been removed at the instance of successive bishops and other ecclesiastical persons. This seems to me the most extraordinary part of the story, though, considering the character and position of these personages, there is another fact almost as extraordinary. The churches have been condemned with the consent of the parishioners ; and this consent has been obtained by means ot deception. I do not mean to impute this deception to the ecclesiastical dignitaries just mentioned ; but they have profited by it. The method of procedure has been briefly this. When a church was to be destroyed, the parishioners were informed that it was not designed by Wren at all ; or, failing that asser- tion, they were told that the church Wren had designed for that parish was pulled down long ago, and the present church built by somebody else in imitation of it. This course was repeatedly pursued. The church was subjected to Jedburgh law. It was condemned and pulled down first, and judged and acquitted afterwards. The whole story was told lately of one of the most precious of these churches in a letter in the Times (21st April 1892), written by the churchwarden who had been made the cat's-paw of the religious functionaries I have mentioned. He now bitterly laments the fraudulent part he was deceived into playing. People have so little archi- tectural taste, and so few of the people of a parish in the City knew whether their church had an artistic value or not, that these tactics have been marvellously successful. It is therefore necessary once more, and as many times more as possible, to reiterate the fact that all Wren's churches in the City were designed with a purpose, and that the destruction of one church is a partial destruction of all the rest. This Wrens Churches 179 is a consideration which cannot be too strongly insisted upon. As a rule, the relation between the different churches was preserved by the spires or towers. If a church is removed, it may be sufficient to leave the tower. An inquiry ought to have been made in every case to this effect ; but, so far as the general public is informed, no such question has ever been raised. Church and church tower have both been destroyed in nearly all cases ; but an agitation, got uja in time, was successful in .saving the tower of St. Mary Somerset, the removal of which would have had an even more disastrous effect on the view of London from the Thames than the destruction of St. Antholin. It must be remembered that the decree of condemnation is still in force, and as I write, for aught I know to the contrary, may be in process of execution. The right reverend and reverend society for the suppression of Wren's churches goes to work with exceeding subtlety ; and it is certain, that if it put as much skill and craft into motion to obtain the money by other and less nefarious means, the task would be comparatively easy, and the members would be saved the necessity of absolving their agents from the sin of mendacity. I do not believe one more of Wren's churches would be destroyed if the Bishop of London could be made to understand that the consent of the parishioners can only be obtained by simple lying. One fact is worth a great many arguments. I will offer the reader two facts. Wren built a very curious and interesting church, called St. Mary Aldermary, in a modification of the Gothic style. The chief feature of this church is the beautifully proportioned tower, in which some people see an imitation of the tower of Magdalen College at Oxford. By way of contrast, i8o Modern Architecture in Ein^/ai/d •b" Wren built over against St. Mary's another tower : that of St. Antholin, Watling Street. The tower of St. Mary's is 135 feet high, having corner pinnacles. The spire was designed to be a little taller, as suitable to its form ; and it rose to 154 feet. It was very much like a Gothic spire, and was built of stone ; in this respect differing from all but one other of Wren's spires. But though so Gothic in its general form, it was strictly Palladian in details. The harmony, or contrast of the two steeples — for they stood very close together, and you could hardly look at one without seeing the other — produced on the mind of any one of artistic taste a feeling of intense pleasure : a distinct thrill, like that produced by beautiful music. When the new street was made, these two towers stood on either side of it, and opposite to each other. In those days, I was obliged to spend six months of every year abroad ; and I well remember making an exertion always on my return to go and have a look at the pair, some- times endeavouring to group St. Mary-le-Bow or some other tower with them in one view. Judge my distress, in 1877, on returning from a winter in Egypt, to find St. Antholin's gone, and its place occupied by some shops, rather conspicuous for the poverty of their architectural features. The miserable story leaked out by degrees. When the ecclesiastical authorities first proposed to destroy St. Antholin's, a cry of horror and indigna- tion went up. But they were not to be balked of their prey. They discovered, or allowed some one to discover for them, that St. Antholin's was not designed by Wren, — that, in fact, it had only been built a few years, — and that it was by no means worth the fuss being made about it. I do not say that the authorities believed this tale themselves : they are gentlemen of education and must have known better. But they did not on u. O 'SI X a p o Z td W Si O Wreiis ChiircJies i8, o that account contradict the story. By much canvassing and many reiterations, abaremajority of the parishioners was obtained. Even then, a number pleaded for the reprieve of the spire ; and it was spared for a few months, but, to use the words of Mr. Andrew Taylor (The Toiuers and Steeples of Sir Christopher Wren, p. 38), " the increased price which was thereby obtainable for the site finally outweighing all less mercenary considerations, it shared the fate of the church ; and the place that once knew it knows it no more for ever." I was lately assured by an alder- man, at that time Lord Mayor, that the whole bench of alder- men protested in vain against the removal of this tower. Then came the sequel to the story. The gentleman who had been made a cat's-paw found out that he was wholly deceived. A few courses of the spire had on one occasion been taken down in order to remove a faulty piece of stone, and had been scrupulously replaced. It was upon this repair that the whole monstrous lie told to the parishioners rested. I repeat, I cannot acquit the members of the Episcopal committee of blame. During the present year, nevertheless, the same tactics were tried in order to destroy Wren's only other stone spire, — for of course the steeples of St. Mary-le-Bow or St. Bride's are not exactly spires, — but the parishioners of St. Antholin, still smart- ing under the misfortune of 1876, told the whole story as I have endeavoured to narrate it above, with the result that for the time being St. Dunstan in the East is saved. The admiration of the citizens, and of all people of any taste, had not been able to save St. Antholin. It had been built in 1682 ; and the cost of church and spire was ^5700. St. Mary Aldermary was built at the same time, and finished only a few months sooner ; so that there can be no 184 Modern Architecture in England doubt of Wren's intention of making one composition of the two. It is not necessary to go through all Wren's City churches. The following have been pulled down by the bishop and his assessors within the past few years : St. Antholin ; All Hallows, Thames Street ; All Hallows, Bread Street ; St. Mildred ; St. Michael, Oueenhithe ; St. Dionis ; St. Benet, Gracechurch Street ; and St. Olave, Jewry. Besides these, St. Christopher by the Bank; St. Michael, Crooked Lane; and St. Benet Fink, were previously pulled down, but are not so much to be lamented. In all, ten of Wren's churches have been destroyed under the " Union of Benefices Act " of i860 ; and Mr. Taylor says that "under a scheme drawn up by the Fellows of Sion College in 1876, thirty-one more City churches were marked for destruction. This, however, was too much even for the apathy of the British public ; and steps were taken to resist such a scheme, which were so far successful that the matter has been allowed to drop for the present : but it may be resuscitated at any time ; and it is imperatively necessary, therefore, that a greater public interest be awakened in the churches, that we be not implicated in deeds for which posterity will not hold us blameless." Various attempts have been made to classify Wren's churches. They generally end in leaving the classification like that of Greek verbs. One is regular and all the rest are e.xceptional. W^e cannot class St. Paul's with any of the others, though the interior of St. Stephen, Wallbrook, may be compared with parts of it. There are two or three fine churches which go together: St. Lawrence Jewry ; St. James, Piccadilly ; St. Bride, Fleet Street ; and St. Mary-le-Bow — in all of which Wren showed his marvellous skill in covering a wide space where all can see and Th. W...t I'ruspect of ST. PAUL'S CHURCH, begun Anno ,672 and Mni.hcd .;.o. F.on, an old print. 2 B IVrens Churches ' 187 hear. Again, in some of the smaller churches, where cheapness had to be considered before all else, he contrived to bestow some feature, within or without, which carried off the plainness he could not otherwise avoid. Mr. Taylor classifies them by the towers and spires alone. Some have stone steeples, like St. Mary-le- Bow, Christ Church, St. Bride, and St. Vedast. Some have lead spires and lanterns, of which type St. Magnus and St. Lawrence are good examples. A third kind have square towers, like St. Andrew by the Wardrobe, or St. George, Botolph Lane. Finally, we have the Gothic churches or church towers: a very interesting class, which comprises St. Mary Aldermary ; St. Dunstan in the East; St. Michael, Cornhill ; and St. Alban, Wood Street. Of St. Paul's, a very short notice must suffice, and that chiefly by way rather of praise than of criticism. But it is well to point out the conditions under which St. Paul's was designed. Let us ask ourselves what were the objects of church-builders in the second half of the seventeenth century. The question is wholly one of church doctrine. The school of Laud had passed away, and its leader had been one of the victims of the Great Rebellion. Of his school, we have a most interesting example in St. Katharine Cree, a church probably built by Inigo Jones, under Laud's personal superintendence ; that is, it was designed by a Roman Catholic for a bishop whose leading idea was union with Rome. I am expressing no opinion on the religious questions involved, but only touching on them as they affected architecture. In St. Katharine Cree, accordingly, we see a building designed for the celebration of Mass. The designer's object was, briefly, to construct a church in which every worshipper could see the elevation of the Host. But when the Revolution, which had been fostered and promoted as much by the tendency of Laud just 1 88 Modem Architecture in Enghmd mentioned as by any one thing besides, — when the Revolution had swept over the land, views and opinions on these subjects were wholly changed. During the Commonwealth, in the City of London at least, every parish had chosen to itself a lecturer or preaching clergyman. Under the old rule, before the Refor- mation, and long afterwards, preaching was no part of the duty of the parochial clergy. They went on celebrating Mass until that was forbidden. Queen Elizabeth licensed a few preachers from time to time ; and they chiefly held forth at such a jilace as .St. Paul's Cross, and were strictly amenable to the authorities. In this respect, there was more liberty under James I. and Charles I. ; and then, as I have said, the people grew so fond of sermons, that they elected preachers. During the reign of Cromwell, many parish clergymen fled and left their people to the lecturers, who subsequently showed well by contrast during the prevalence of the Great Plague. It is probable that, if we had Mr. Besant's powers, and could go back and interview a citizen of London about the beginning of 1666, and could ask him "What is a church for.^" he would reply, " It is a place where we can hear sermons." So when, later in the same year, the Fire came and burnt nearly all the old churches, — churches, we must remember, built for Mass, not for sermons, — the citizens, in rebuilding them, thought only of how they could hear and how they could see, not the elevation of the Host, but the face of the preacher. Wren says himself in Parcntalia that his object in designing St. James's, Piccadilly, was to make it "so capacious, with pews and galleries, as to hold above 2000 persons, and all to hear distinctly and see the preacher." This, then, was the leading idea, the motive of the church-designer of the latter half of the seventeenth century. 'iyr-'^'^ 2; o b en Z w a! <: Q w a H < o ST. MARY-LESTRAND. UY GIBBS 2 G TJie Successors of Wroi 227 amongst many others." The print in Gibbs's book is by Vertue, but there is another by Cole, in Dart's Westminster Abbey, which represents the design as it is, with the front curved. When it was new, with its gilding and heraldry, and the coloured marble Corinthian columns, this monument must have been very handsome, especially as there were hardly any others at that time in the transept, now so crowded. Gibbs also designed for Westminster Abbey monuments to Prior the poet, and Ben Jonson, both commissioned by Lord Oxford, and to a Mrs. Bovey and a Mr. Smith. Lord Oxford furthermore employed him to build a church in Vere Street, a very plain performance. Gibbs, who came from Aberdeen, was, like Inigo Jones, a Roman Catholic, but was buried in what used to be then the church of St. Mary-le-Bone, now the parish chapel, and near him Rysbrack, the sculptor, who had carried out so many of his designs. Of James, there is little to be said, except that he built St. George's, Hanover Square, a heavy but handsome church, and St. Alphage at Greenwich, which is an unsuccessful attempt to attain picturesqueness by eccentricity. It is sometimes attributed to Hawksmoor, but looks much more like the work of James. Another architect of this school was Archer, who built St. John's church at Westminster, which has been unsparingly criticised, chiefly on account of its four corner towers, or belfries, as Walpole calls them. But the objectors did not notice that these towers were a structural necessity, as when the church was built it was found not to be strong enough for its situation in marshy ground. Archer also designed Cliefden House, which has been much altered of late. We should also mention Vardy, whose Spencer House, in the Green Park, is modelled closely 228 Modern Architecture in England after Inigo Jones. It is figured in the Vitruvius Britannicus, iv. ^J. He also designed Uxbridge House, Burlington Gardens. The greatest of all the architects who followed Wren in the first half of the eighteenth century was, strange to say, strictly speaking, an amateur. This was Richard, third earl of Burling- ton and fourth earl of Cork, who was born in 1693, ^'""^ d'^*^ '" 1753. If Burlington had enjoyed the good fortune to be born poor, his fame as an architect might haply have rivalled that of Inigo Jones, if not that of Wren himself. Burlington had an unbounded admiration for Inigo and all his works. It was by his superintending munificence that Kent was able to publish the two beautiful volumes of Jones's designs ; and, as is well known, he restored and preserved the church in Covent Garden. His modesty exceeded even his ability, and he willingly per- mitted so inferior an architect as Colen Campbell to claim and receive the praises earned by the beautiful design of Burlington House. Unfortunately, very little of his work can be positively identified. In London, Burlington House has been practically destroyed. The house of Marshal Wade has disappeared, though it survives in the courtyard of a hotel, and still has its lovely staircase. The design is also preserved in the Provost's House in Dublin, imitated by an architect named Smith. The best specimen of Burlington's work that exists is hidden away behind Westminster School. A small house with wings, at the end of Savile Row, was built by him in his garden. In the country we have the villa at Chiswick, slightly altered, and much added to, but still in such a condition that we can judge of its merits. At Bath, a house in the Orange Grove is attributed to him ; but I cannot recognise his touch in it. At York, where he The Successors of Wren ' 229 was Lord Lieutenant, he designed the beautiful Assembly Rooms. It is a remarkable fact that we should not be able to distinguish his designs from Inigo Jones's in Kent's volumes if they were not all signed. There is certainly nothing in English architecture more quietly beautiful than the elevation of the Westminster dormitory. (It is plate 51 in the second volume of the book of Inigo Jones's designs.) Fifteen arches support the upper storey, which contains a single chamber, 166 feet long. The whole building is 55 feet high. Above the arcade is a row of niches for statues, and above that again, a row of small square window apertures. At the time when the dormitory was built, the site, which looked on the College Garden, was very damp, hence the elevation of the chamber itself on arches. Now that the ground is thoroughly drained and dry, the arches have been built up and further school accommodation has been obtained ; but this alteration has been carefully made so as to interfere little with the effect. Campbell ( Vitrtivius Britannicus, iii. p. 2 1 ) takes to himself the credit of having designed Burlington House ; and it is more than likely that he made all the working drawings. It is, how- ever, equally certain, first, that he never was at Vicenza, where is the building by Palladio from which the design is said to have been taken ; and, secondly, that no recognised building of his — Wanstead, or Houghton, or Mereworth — is good enough to be by the same designer as Burlington House. Burlington had been much in Italy, and had seriously studied the art of Palladio. The Chiswick villa was also an adaptation after the same great architect. A second point in the argument against Campbell's authorship is, that his claim was not acknowledged at the time. Walpole, in particular, treats it with contempt, 230 Modern ArcJiitechtre in England while he goes into raptures over the colonnade. In the next age, Sir William Chambers, the best possible judge, considered the whole composition to be unrivalled, and, in his work on Civil Architecture, makes use of the oft-quoted phrase, " Behind an old brick wall in Piccadilly there is, notwithstanding its faults, one of the finest pieces of architecture in Europe." It is only wearisome to go on quoting what Ralph, Pope, Gay, Malcolm, and Britton say in praise of this beautiful building. It is better worth while to put a few facts relating to it into chronological order. In 17 16, Burlington, not yet of age, met Kent in Italy. He had already, in 171 5, been appointed Vice- admiral of York, an Irish privy councillor, and colonel of a militia regiment. In the following year, 12th January 17 16, he was made Governor of the County of Cork. Four months later, he was appointed Lord Lieutenant of the West Riding and City of York. It is evident that at twenty-one, when he returned home from Italy, full of what he had seen and of the friendship he had already formed with the young architect he left behind, he had quite enough to employ his mind both in public and in private business. He, Burlington, doubtless made careful drawings of buildings at Vicenza ; and, as soon as he could secure the services of an architect, having probably no time of his own to spare, he set about refronting the old house in Piccadilly in the Italian style. He must have begun as early as 1716, for that date with his arms was on the leadwork ; but Campbell specially dates his view of the house 171 7, and that of the gate 171S. Whether after this time Lord Burlington had further dealings with Campbell we do not know. Campbell was in some way mixed up in the intrigue by which Wren was ousted from office, and died the same year that Kent came Id o o a: a u z TJie Successors of If yen 233 home, 1729. Kent was welcomed to Burlington House by his friend. So warm was this welcome, and so great the friendship of the pair, that Kent never left Lord Burlington again, but, having lived here for nineteen years, died in the house and was buried in the vault of the Boyle family at Chiswick in 1748. Meanwhile, the two published the great book upon Inigo Jones I have so often had occasion to mention ; and we can imagine with what pleasure Kent included a few designs by his friend and host with those of the great architect. Kent did not leave very much mark on the public buildings of London. He is believed to have added to Kensington Palace. A state staircase there is always attributed to him, and he decorated the principal apartments. The cupola room, if it is his and not Wren's, does him great credit. Even in a dismantled state, it is fine and rich. The doorways and niches, and the fireplace, all of the Ionic order, in marble, produce a magnificent effect. Kent is certainly responsible for the painting of the staircase, which he carried out, with figures intended to enhance the appearance of size. The Bat ceiling is painted to represent a dome, and faces peer down through the skylight. He was also employed at Hampton Court to complete some of the work Wren had begun. It is not always possible to distinguish his work, but there cannot be much doubt as to a chimney-piece in the Queen's Guard Chamber, which is supported by figures of guards. Holkham Hall is usually considered Kent's best domestic work, the influence of Lord Burlington's greater taste and originality being very plainly marked upon it. Sir William Chambers, however, finds fault with it. In the north front (which is represented in our plate from the Viirtivius Britannicus, 2 H 234 Modern AvcJiitccture in England V. 25), there are no less than seven Venetian windows, " which, added to the quantity of trifling breaks and ups and downs in the elevation, keep the spectator's eye in a perpetual dance to discover the outlines, than which nothing can be more unpleasing or destructive of effect." The south front is more satisfactory, as it is set off by a magnificent hexastyle portico of the Corinthian order, raised on a rusticated basement. Chambers also makes some disparaging remarks about the Horse Guards, but there Kent was associated with Vardy in the design. The old part of the Treasury buildings was erected in 1733 by Kent, part of a much larger design, never completed. It is plain but perfectly satisfactory as regards proportion and features. During all the years of their association Kent and Lord Burlington seem to have very seldom worked together, and to have retained, except in the examples I have named, a complete independence of style. But Burlington House was designed and finished before Kent came from Italy. Mr. Wheatley and others say it was designed in imitation of the palace of Count Valerio Chiericato at Vicenza. Burlington did make a design after this palace {Inigo Jones, ii. 12), but it was never used. Ware, in his Palladio, gives two engravings of the Chiericato palace. Burlington House did not in any way resemble them, nor did it, strictly speaking, exactly resemble any of the numerous villas at Vicenza, which Ware has engraved. Part of the house of Count Ottavio de Thieni would give us a hint of the general motive of the design, with its rusticated lower storey and the columns above. But the columns are of the Composite order, whereas Burlington's are Ionic. The following is a technical description 1 tA-al/f O^^ ^O /^' HOUSE DESIGNED BY LORD BURLINGTON FOR GENERAL WADE, IN BURLINGTON STREET. TJie Successors of JVroi 237 taken from Britton and Pugin : The south front is in three divisions with a rusticated basement ; the central, with six windows, being recessed from the two ends. The first storey, or principal suite of apartments, is ornamented with six columns in the middle division, and four pilasters in the front of each end. In these ends we find the Venetian windows have, very judiciously, been raised to range with the seven other windows. This storey is crowned with an appropriate entablature and balustrade. It is just possible at Burlington House, as we now see it, for the judicious visitor to make out a glimpse of the upper storey. A third storey has been added, and below there is a kind of portico, both not only incongruous but thoroughly bad in them- selves. The unhappy architects, finding they had wholly failed to hit off the proportions or any of the feeling of the original, covered the wretchedness of their design with a wealth of orna- ment which only serves to enhance its deficiencies. The famous colonnade has, I hear, disappeared ; but the gate, with the stones numbered, lies in the mud at the western entrance of Battersea Park, where it forms a kind of gymnasium or playground for swarms of children. In its place stands a new entrance, which, were it not for its enormous height, might escape observation for its architectural insignificance. In spite of a lavish use of ornamental carving, it may fairly claim to be, within two at the most, the ugliest building in Piccadilly. The York assembly rooms have been added to, and were sub- jected some years ago to a redecoration by Owen Jones ; but the following notes, taken from the volume in the Beauties of England and Wales on Yorkshire, tell us what they were like in 181 2 : " The magnificent Assembly Rooms, erected in the last century, 238 Modern ArcJiitedtiye in England and designed by the Earl of Burlington, are an honour to the city and to the architectural taste of that nobleman. The grand room is an antique Egyptian hall from Palladio, 1 1 2 feet in length, 40 feet in breadth, and 40 in height. This room consists of two orders : the lower part, with forty-four columns and capitals and a beautiful cornice, displays the Corinthian order ; the upper part is after the Composite, richly adorned with festoons resembling oak leaves and acorns, with a superb cornice, curiously ornamented with carved work." There are smaller rooms : one 66 feet long, another a cube of 21, and a circular card - room. The front had a semicircular portico, but I fear it has lately been removed, or "restored." There are several views and a plan in the Vitriivius Britanninis, iv. 78. Of Chiswick, it is only necessary to say that it was a mere summer-house, but a very pretty one. Two wings had to be built to make it habitable. The original design closely resembles that of the villa near Vicenza of Monsignor Almerico (p. 1 3 in Ware), which was designed by Palladio ; but there are many dif- ferences, and, while the order at Vicenza is Ionic, that at Chiswick is Corinthian. There are three plates representing it in Kent's Inigo Jones (vol. i.). Walpole set the idea going that the design was from that of the Villa Capra. The Villa Capra in Ware's Palladio is wholly different ; but a circular villa, very like that to which he gives the name of Almerico is still at Vicenza, and has " Marius Capra Gabrielis F " over the portico. It is figured in Schlitz {Die Renaissance in lialien, Abtheilung B.), and resembles both Ware's Almerico villa and this one at Chiswick. It is evident that there is either some confusion here, or that Chiswick is wholly original, and that Horace Walpole was not the most accurate of authors. ■ o o g « J o o X u Bi W H S H W o o a The Successors of PVren 24 1 We have so little of Lord Burlington's, that it is perhaps rash to praise him very highly. If he had been an architect in ordinary practice it is possible, nay, probable, that his art would not have maintained itself at the high level at which alone we see it. Kirby Hall in Yorkshire {Vitruvius Britaiinicns, v. 71), though designed by Burlington, was carried out by Morris, one of his architectural followers, and Harewood ( Vitnivius Britaniiiais, v. 25), which has many traces of his hand upon it, was by Carr. But enough remains of what is undoubtedly his to justify us in ranking Burlington very little below Inigo Jones. It would be easy to fill up the rest of this chapter with a criticism of the works of the succeeding professors of Palladian architecture. Taylor was the eldest, having been born in 1714- He had a large practice, but left little that calls for remark. He designed the stone building in Lincoln's Inn, and, it is said, proposed to pull down all the other buildings and lay out the whole inn afresh. James Paine built a good many houses in a pleasing style, but is now little remembered. Chambers is chiefly remembered as the architect of Somerset House, of which the Strand front is always considered a transcript of a former building close to the same site by Inigo Jones. It is probable, to judge by pictures and prints, that Chambers made some such attempt at imitation. But if we remember that Jones's Somerset House faced south, that it was of brick with stone dressings, and, especially, that it was much smaller, we can understand that no such attempt could be successful. The difference of size, material, and aspect would be fatal to any possibility of an exact copy. The front is, how- ever, though unlike Inigo, undoubtedly very fine ; and the arched entrance is one of the most graceful examples of the kind in 2 I 242 Modern Anhitectitre in Eiiglana London. The western side in Wellington Street is also good ; but it is impossible not to agree with Fergusson when he says that the south front was Chambers's great opportunity, and unfortunately shows " how little he was equal to the task he had undertaken." His happiest efforts were on a much smaller scale. His arbours, and alcoves, and summer-houses in Kew Gardens, chiefly designed for the Princess Dowager of Wales, are one and all extremely pretty. He published a very charming volume about them. Not far off, at Roehampton, there is a kind of temple of the Composite order which will bear a great deal of examination. It and the villa to which it belonged were designed for Lord Bessborough. The villa was lately pulled down. He built in London Lord Gower's house in Whitehall, Lord Melbourne's house in Piccadilly, and the Albany. He was born at Stockholm in 1726, and after- wards went to China, where he made drawings of Chinese buildings, having, even in his youth, a strong taste for architecture. He rose in this art to the highest honours, was the first Treasurer of the Royal Academy, Surveyor- General of royal buildings, and architectural tutor to George III., who is said to have himself, no doubt with his teacher's help, designed a house, the Ranger's Lodge in the Green Park, now pulled down. Chambers practically retired from the profession some time before his death in 1796. Next to him, in date, comes Robert Adam, born in 1 728. Adam and his brothers obtained a great reputation for a knowledge of architecture ; and their book on Spalatro enhanced it. In London, their most con- spicuous building gives no just idea of their powers. The Adelphi Terrace served for many years as a foil to Somerset House, in which capacity it has now been superseded by two or three new 7. O C3 o O TJie Successors of Wren 245 blocks of surpassing ugliness. Lansdowne House is very tame. But Adam did better things, as for instance two sides of Fitzroy Square. Kedleston Hall in Derbyshire has many merits ; the design, and especially the singular arrangement of the plan, with its four wings, being an adaptation from Palladio. (Ware's /'^Z- ladio, B. ii. 58.) There are several views of Kedleston in the fourth volume of Viiriivius Britanniciis. In London, the taste of the next generation was wholly taken up with what was supposed to be Grecian. This name was gradually applied to everything that was not Gothic. One writer calls the towers of Westminster Abbey " Grecian." In a modified degree, some of Soane's work may be called Grecian ; but the beautiful adaptation of a temple at Tivoli, which he placed at the north-west corner of the Bank of England, is purely Roman. The greater part of the bank was built by Sir Robert Taylor before 1788, but Soane remodelled the whole. The exterior, with the exception of the corner just mentioned, is studiously plain, though handsome. The courts are more ornamental, one of them, by the way, having been formerly the churchyard of St. Christopher. This one is by Taylor, but the beautiful " Lothbury Court " is by Soane. Leeds describes it as highly picturesque, which it certainly is, and adds "it is not easy to conceive a more beautiful composition." Technically he thus describes it : — " On either side is a flight of steps, the entire width of the court, on which rest two beautiful colonnades of four Corinthian columns, with antae and entablature ; that on the right hand forms an open screen to a raised part of the court, and that on the left a loggia, the centre part of which is a large semicircular recess, extending the width of three intercolumns." By some chance, not easily accounted for, Soane, forgetting 246 Modem ArcJiifecture in England what he had learned in Italy, took to designing in an anomalous style, and his law courts at Westminster, which have now disappeared, were as j^Iain and uninteresting as anything in London. Meanwhile, true Palladian was flourishing elsewhere. At Bath, where excellent building stone was to be had easily, the two Woods, father and son, and Baldwin the city architect were at work. Queen's Square, built in 1729, I have already mentioned. It is remarkable as apparently the first example of a design which grouped a row of separate dwelling-houses into one composition. The same idea was in Adam's mind in building Fitzroy Square ; but Queen's Square was built when he was only a year old. At Bath, the Woods carried it much further ; in Great Pulteney Street, perhaps, too far. But no one can help admiring the Circus, which groups together thirty handsome residences, with a spacious enclosure of grass and trees before them. The houses are built with columns engaged and coupled, in three storeys. The lowest is of Tuscan Doric, Wren's favourite order. The entablature is carved with emblems, apparently from one of the emblem books which were so common two hundred years ago. The series is continued, without repetitions, round all the houses. The columns of the next storey are Ionic, beautifully carved, but they have suffered much from weather and age. At the top the order is Corinthian. The whole arrangement resembles the cloister of St. Giustina at Padua by Palladio, but is thus summed up in one of the local guide-books: it "is a fine circle of houses, divided into three blocks, which consist of three stages, each built in a differ-ent style of architectui'e." The Royal Crescent faces south and has a beautiful view of The Successors of U 'rcii 249 the park, lower down the hill. When the Crescent was built the site of the park was a common. It was designed by the younger Wood, and like the Circus consists of thirty houses. A solid basement sustains a series of Ionic engaged columns, those at the ends and in the centre being coupled, the rest single. The effect is good, but owes a great deal to the situation. In any case, it must be acknowledged that neither the Adelphi nor Somerset House has anything like the same stately effect. Prior Park, a little way to the southward of Bath, is another example of Wood's skill. There are many houses close by in the same style, at Widcombe, for instance, at Corsham, and, in short, wherever the famous Bath oolite can be quarried. But Prior Park is both the most imposing and also the most pleas- ing. It labours under one serious disadvantage, in facing to the north, and a little neglect covers the noble flight of steps with green mould. The house, which stands on a lofty slope about 400 feet above Bath, consists of a centre and wings, to- gether with outlying offices which are connected with the main building by low walls. The present owners have made some alterations in these arrangements. The portico is very fine, of the Corinthian order, with six columns in front, and two inter- columniations at the sides. The flight of steps is not by Wood, having been added later, but is a very handsome and appropriate feature. The house was built for Ralph Allen, whose name so often occurs in the memoirs of Pope. Fielding, and other great men of the day, and was commissioned with a view of attracting attention to the advantages of Bath stone as a building material. A pretty Ionic bridge in the grounds is copied, perhaps too literally, from one at Wilton, attributed to Inigo Jones. After the Woods, at Bath, came Baldwin, who designed the 2 K 250 Modern Architecture in Eiiglatid Pump Room, which is not very good, and the Guildhall, built in 1775, which is admirable, but somewhat marred by additions in an anomalous style. These additions are, I believe, condemned, but whether they will be replaced by anything better time alone can show. Architectural taste has died out in Bath. There was a partial revival of the purest Palladian in London about fifty years ago, by Barry. The only fault of his Reform and Travellers' Clubs in Pall Mall is, that they resemble too closely the Italian buildings from which, professedly, they are imitated. The Reform Club, finished in 1840, is an exact tran- script of part of the Farnese Palace at Rome, with the result that the windows, intended for the sunny Italian climate, look too small and dark in Pall Mall. We also miss the beautiful arcaded " loggia " of the original. On the other hand, Barry's proportions are admirable, and he was not content to take a portion of the great Roman house without modifying the dimensions in a similar ratio. In short the design, as adapted, is one of the most perfect examples in London, depending, as it does, not on ornament but on proportion for its effect. The Travellers' has been disguised in stucco and painted, the effect being ruined. It was an adaptation from the Pandolfini Palace at Florence, which is often attributed to Raphael. The critics were wild with delight when this house was first built. After the ill-treatment it has received, we might pass it by daily without remarking its merits, which are undoubtedly very great. It is a question whether the south front is not the better of the two. In it the lower storey is rusticated and the upper windows have balconies. The cornices on both fronts are bold, and were delicately ornamented, but the stucco spoils all. There is no balustrade. Barry was so pleased with this -^ D O X p b z; J D ca a < The Successors of J J Irii 253 little building that he published a volume about it, with views and drawings by Hewett. Bridgewater House, also by Barry, is much less ornate than the clubs, but on the whole it is greatly to be admired, and shows well beside Spencer House in the Green Park. It seems a pity that Barry's later years were taken up with a building in a style which he did not understand ; but the palace of Westminster attests nevertheless the greatness of his powers, even if it makes us regret the more the purpose to which they were put. It has often been remarked that w^e employed our most eminent Palladian to build in Gothic, and next employed our greatest Gothic architect to build in Palladian ; but the Foreign Office in Whitehall, a grotesque structure, shows us that Scott had none of the adaptability or versatility of Barry. A fine club in Pall Mall— the Army and Navy — is by Parnell and Smith, and is copied from another design of Sansovino, the Cornaro Palace at Venice. Both it and the Carlton, by Smirke, in imitation of Sansovino's Library, would look better without balustrades, which go far to spoil the beautiful cornices. Very few other buildings in this style worthy of notice have been erected in London since the time of Barry. I do not wish here to speak of contemporary architecture more than is absolutely necessary, and need not therefore repeat my opinion ot the recent buildings in the City or in some of the west end streets. Costly materials, it is proved over and over again, will not make handsome buildino^s unless the architect knows his art. In the provinces things have, on the whole, been better. St. George's Hall set a fashion in Liverpool which has been followed in the public library and the picture gallery near it, as well as in some institutions of less note. The style 254 Modern Architecture in England flourished for a time at Newcastle, where Dobson designed the admirable railway station and several streets of remarkable beauty and stateliness. Manchester has been unlucky ; and except the cathedral and the exchange, contains nothing one would willingly look at twice. The Town Hall must be characterised as frightful, and the Law Courts are only a shade better. Edinburgh never greatly affected Palladian, though it contains some good examples of the genius of Adam ; and Glasgow, though it has produced some good architects, has let them practise elsewhere. One of the most original and brilliant professors of the Grecian style was Thomson, of Glasgow, but very few of his works are extant. Belfast also is wanting in good architecture ; but before the end of the eighteenth century Palladian art already flourished where we should hardly have expected to find it. Dublin took up the tradition let drop by Bath. A hundred years have elapsed, and we have pleasing evidence that it flourishes there still. The charming group of new buildings in Kildare Street would be more encouraging if we had not to contrast it with the public buildings of the same time and kind in London, and especially at South Kensington. The earliest and certainly the best known Palladian building in Dublin is the Bank of Ireland, originally erected for the Irish Parliament. The architect seems to have been Sir Edward Lovet Pearce, the Surveyor-General, and he deserves credit for a piece of originality not to be matched in the three Kingdoms. The plan is oval, or nearly so, the wall being plain and without openings except on the southern face. There is no basement, but a row of engaged Ionic pillars rises directly from a low plinth. The southern face is very curious. A rectangular opening discloses a kind of courtyard, round which the order is o a! The Successors of IVren 257 continued by an open colonnade, a handsome portico and pedi- ment terminating the view. Two smaller pediments, with archways, are at the entrance to each colonnade. The writer of Murray's Handbook thus describes this part of the building ; — " It consists of a magnificent Ionic front and colonnades, the centre occupying three sides of a receding square. The principal porch is svhpported by four Ionic pillars, and is surmounted by a pediment with the royal arms and a statue of Hibernia, with Fidelity and Commerce on each side, the last two having been modelled by Flaxman. The open colonnade extends round the square to the wings and is flanked on each side by a lofty entrance arch." It appears that this grand colonnade and entrance front was the first portion erected. A second portico is on the eastern side, and was built by James Gandon, one of the editors of the fourth and fifth volumes of the ]'itniviits Britanniciis. It looks strange, for it is of the Corinthian order, as desired by the Lords, to whose chamber it gave access. Gandon is said to have described it contemptuously as " the order of the House of Lords." It has by no means a bad effect, being another example of the axiom that incongruous objects, if they are good equally, tend to picturesqueness. Gandon carried out the "order" in 1785, and two years later Parke built a handsome Ionic portico for the House of Commons at the western side. Gandon completed another important design in Dublin. This was the Four Courts, commenced in 1776 by Cooley, who had designed the Dublin Royal Exchange. Cooley died when he had only begun the work, and Gandon finished it in 1800. It is undoubtedly a very fine edifice, and like the Bank shows great originality of plan. An experiment has been tried at Melbourne in Australia by which a similar dome and portico are placed on a conspicuous 2 L 258 Modern ArcJiitccturc in England hill, and we can judge how much the Dublin courts lose by their situation in a hollow, close to the river, which is here only a noisome sewer. The plan is described by Dr. Walsh, the author of a History of Dublin, as one which may be "distinctly delineated in the imagination by figuring a circle of 64 feet diameter, inscribed in the centre of a square of 140 feet, with the Four Courts radiating from the circle to the angles of the square." The columns round the hall are of the Corinthian order, and so also are the columns on the exterior supporting the low dome, and those of the portico. A little farther down the same quay is one of the largest and most costly of the Palladian buildings of Dublin. The Custom- House was designed by Gandon, and, as it stands by itself, has four fronts, of which that to the south is the best. It has a fine Doric portico, on either side of which is a lofty arcade occupying the basement. From the centre of the building, which is 375 feet long by 205 in depth, rises a cupola, evidently constructed in imitation of the two which Wren placed over the chapel and hall at Greenwich, and rising to a height of 1 13 feet. Trinity College is another extremely satisfactory building. The front to College Green is plain but in good proportion. Adjoining the front to the south is the Provost's house, designed after Burlington's house for Marshal Wade. The first college quadrangle, with the Examination Hall and the Chapel, has an irregular but most satisfactory effect. The design was sent over by Chambers, and was carried out by Mayers. The Chapel is by Cassels. On the south side is the Library, formerly a magnificent example of the style. Some forty years ago fears were expressed as to the stability of the flat roof, over 200 feet long, and a stupid expedient was adopted for supporting it, o H o g J BS P CQ P « o ►J o The Successors of IV yen 261 by which the beauty of the whole building is marred. There used to be a long arcade below, as a cloister, but the arches are now filled. The Library was greatly altered and a new roof made in i860. In the centre of the quadrangle is a very graceful campanile, by Lanyon, built in 1854, as if to show that the Palladian tradition survived till then. It survives still, as I have remarked, and unquestionably the best contemporary example in the three Kingdoms is the new museum building in Kildare Street. Some people perhaps may assert that the best contemporary examples are to be sought for at the Antipodes. Certainly we have nothing in London to compare with the Post-Ofifice at Melbourne, designed it is said by an amateur. It follows closely the motives of Inigo Jones in his Whitehall drawings, and if it was better situated, for it is in the bottom of a valley, would deserve and obtain a world-wide reputation. It is necessary, in conclusion, to make some allusion to the style which succeeded or superseded that of Chambers and Gandon and Barry. Gandon and Chambers flourished before, and Barry after, the issue of Stuart and Revett's great work on the architectural remains of Greece, and, in particular, of Athens. " Athenian " Stuart, as he was called, must be regarded as the originator of a taste for Grecian architecture. He did not succeed with it himself, nor did the taste for it last. The picturesqueness of which Thomson of Glasgow has shown it was capable was wholly missed, and some designs of Hardwick, for the railway station at Euston Square, are almost the only good work of the kind which was produced in London. Hard- wick was also, it may be remembered, the designer of one of the very few good Gothic buildings of the revival, a library at Lincoln's Inn, the beauty of which was after his day much 262 Modern Architecture in E/ii^tamt ' I i: !' :ii •♦•vf . • :il:l' m--iLi' I: :" )!,":,. 1^ :^^' .r;"'''|i"' xf ■ I I t ■> i'> A(*.>tf.^., *it. i m^^ « i^ k-^l VI, i \^ -1 i>JI •^1