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 5JortI| (Earolina g>tatp IninerHity 
 
 SPECIAL COLLECTIONS 
 
 TP897 
 
 
 
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THIS BOOK MUST NOT BE TAKEN 
 FROM THE LIBRARY BUILDING. 
 
 JZLAy'^^-^^ 
 
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-D 
 
 THE 
 
 A 
 
 R 
 
 O F 
 
 DYING WOOL, 
 
 AND 
 
 K, 
 
 COTTON, 
 
 'f>£-.-. 
 
 TRANSLATID FROM THX TRENCH 0» Q^ \< ^'X» 
 
 M. HELLOT, M. MACQUER, and M. LE 
 PILEUR D'APLIGNY. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 Printed for R. Baldwin, Pater-noster-Row, 
 
 M DCC LXXXIX, 
 
TO 
 
 THE SOCIETY 
 
 O F 
 
 ARTS, MANUFACTURES, 6? COMMERCE, 
 THIS VOLUME 
 IS HUMBLY INSCRIBED, 
 
 BY THEIR FAITHFUL SERVANT, 
 
 THE TRANSLATOR, 
 
 87817 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 THE great importance of the Art 
 of Dying Wool, Silk, Cotton and 
 Thread, in a country whofe prin- 
 cipal exports arc indnufa(flured from thefe 
 materials is felf-evident. Whether our 
 good neighbours the French be our natural 
 enemies or not, certainly they are our moft 
 powerful rivals in commerce and manufac- 
 tures ; in this fenfe they are our enemies ; 
 let us not therefore, from pride or ill- 
 humour, fpurn their inftrudlions. 
 
 ^as e/i, et ab hojle doceri. 
 
 The Art of Dying is a branch, and by 
 no means the leaft confequential branch of 
 chemiftry; confequential in its influence 
 on the fale of all ftufFs ufed for furniture or 
 apparel : few people can eftimate the in- 
 trinfic value of manufadured woolens, filks 
 or cottons, but men, women and children 
 can judge of their colours, on the beauty 
 of which, therefore, the firft fale of a new 
 manufadure mud depend ; and the con- 
 tinuance of that fale will alfo depend more 
 
 A3 on 
 
vi PREFACE. 
 
 on the permanency of the colours, than on 
 the flrength of the ftufF; a faded gown is 
 given to Mrs. Betty, long before it is worn 
 out. 
 
 The government in France, aware of the 
 importance of colours in their various ma- 
 nufad:ures, hath confidcrcd the Art of 
 Dying as an objedt deferving peculiar atten- 
 tion. Thofe who pradice this art in that 
 kingdom are fubjecft to certain regulations, 
 and frequent infpedion. The Dyers of 
 the true^ and of the falfe dye, are diflindt 
 occupations, and fome of their beil chemifts 
 have been employed in experiments partly 
 defigned to diftinguifh precifely the true 
 from the falfe dye, but with the general 
 intention of improving the art. 
 
 A circumftantial detail of thefe experi- 
 ments, with their various refults, are in this 
 volume prefented to the Englifli Dyers, in 
 what I believe to be a faithful tranflation. 
 I am not a Dyer by profeflion ; probably 
 therefore, I have not always expre/Ted 
 myfelf in the language of an Englifh Dye- 
 houfe ; but I flatter myfelf neverthelefs that 
 the terms I have ufed, though not ilridly 
 
 technical, are never un-intelligible, 
 
 6 Men 
 
PREFACE. vii 
 
 Men of fcience, who are young in the 
 pradice of any art, are naturally deluded, by 
 a propenfity to fpeculation, into theories, 
 which a little more experience would have 
 ftifled in the birth. Of thefe theories the 
 intelligent reader will find fome examples 
 in this volume; but, like many other 
 theories, they are perfectly harmlefs ; be- 
 iides, it is more than probable that the moft 
 extravagant fpeculations of a fenfible man 
 may prove a ftep towards a more rational 
 future inveftigation of the fubje(5l. But, 
 be the theories of thefe philofophical Dyers 
 what they may, their experiments can- 
 not fail to be ufeful to a rational artift. 
 
 Several years have illapfed fince thefe 
 three books on the Art of Dying were pub- 
 liftied in France ; and yet thofe on t&e Art 
 of Dymg Silk and of Cottony are not at all 
 known by our Englifli Dyers : that on tbt 
 Art of Dying Wool by Ij^ellot, was partly 
 and poorly tranllated by a country Dyer, 
 who knew but little French and no Che- 
 mifcry. The fecond part of this volume 
 on the Art of Dying Silky is the work of 
 the celebrated authour of the Chemical Dic- 
 tionary^ and muft therefore be a very 
 A 4 valuable 
 
Vlll 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 valuable performance; and highly accep- 
 table to every artift in that branch of 
 Dying. Part the 'Third, is alfo the work 
 of a very ingenious Chemift. His theory 
 is much more rational than that of M. 
 Hellot i and feveral of his hints may, by a 
 fenfible artift, be improved into fadts of 
 importance. M. Adanfon, of the Academy 
 of Sciences at Paris, and of the Royal 
 Society of London, gives the following tefti- 
 mony of this Treatife on the Art of Dying 
 Cotton. " I have read, by order of my Lord 
 the Keeper of the Great Seal, a manufcript 
 ntituled, 7he Art of Dying Cotton, &c* 
 by M. P. De'Apligny : this work feems 
 replete with new objefts and enquiries 
 likely to lead to new difcoveries in the 
 important Art of Dying; therefore it 
 merits the attention of thofe who wi(h to 
 aflift in bringing this art to perfedticn." 
 
 Having, whilft employed in this tranlla- 
 tion, frequently laid down my pen to con- 
 fider the operation of the Dyer as a chemical 
 procefs, I am convinced, that the prefent 
 roz///W of pradiice might in many inftances 
 be much abridged and improved by a phi- 
 lofophical Dyer. An illiterate pradical 
 
 Dyer 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 IX 
 
 Dyer may accidentally flumble on an ufeful 
 improvement in his art : a Chemift unac- 
 quainted with the pradical part of Dying, 
 may alfo, whilft in purfuit of other matters 
 difcover refults, from new combinations, 
 that are applicable to the art in queflionj but 
 the important Art of Dying will never 
 approach the perfedlion of which it is 
 capable, until our Dyers by profefiion can 
 be perfuaded to make themfelves acquainted 
 with the chemical theory of the art they 
 profefs. 
 
 Thefe three books which I have tranf- 
 lated for the ufe of Englifh Dyers, are an 
 excellent introdudion to the ftudy which I 
 recommend ; though written fome time ago, 
 they exhibit a faithful difplay of the prefent 
 pradtice in France, no improvement having 
 been made in that country lince they were 
 written. 
 
 I recommend this publication to the 
 perufal of Englifh Dyers with great con- 
 fidence, becaufelam totally uninterefted in 
 the fale of the book, and am the reader's 
 
 Faithful Servant, 
 
 THE TRANSLATOR, 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PART I. 
 
 ^e Art of Dying Wool and fVooIen Clothe Siufs, 
 Tarn, Wcrfted^ &c, 
 
 INTRODUCTION - . „ Page i 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 Of the Veflels and Utenfils ufed in Dying 4 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Of the fixed and fugitive, commonly called Great and 
 Little Dye - - _ J2 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 Of Colours In Grain - « 18 
 
 DYING WOOL. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 Of Blue - - - 21 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 Of the Paftel Vat . _ . 2$ 
 
 Diredions for the proper management of the Vat 29 
 
 Indications when the vat has fufFered by too much or too 
 little lime ; the two extremes which ought carefully to 
 be avoided _ _ _ /^j^. 
 
 The preparations of Indigo for the Paftel Vat 36 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 Of the Woad Vat - - 49 
 
 CHAPTER 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER. VII. 
 
 Of the Indigo Vat - - Page 53 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Of the cold Indigo Vat with Urine - 60 
 
 A Hot Indigo Vat with Urine - - 61 
 
 To re-heat a Urine Vat - - 65 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 A cold Indigo Vat without Urine - ' 67 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 Of the method of Dying Blue - - 72 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 Of Red - - - - 105 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 Of Scarlet in Grain, or Venetian Scarlet 106 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 Of Fire Scarlet - - - 123 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 Of Crimfon - - - 146 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 Of Gum-lac Scarlet - _ . 1^2 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 Of the Coccus Polonicus, a colouring Infeil 156 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 Of Madder Red - - - 158 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 Of Yellow - - - - lyj, 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 Of Brown or Fawn colour - - 175 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 Of Black - - - . ,81 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 Of the colours obtained from a mixture of Blue and Red 
 
 192 
 
 CHAPTER 
 
.CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 Of the mixture of Blue and Yellow - Page 193 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 Of the mixture of Blue and Fawn colour 198 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 Of the mixture of Blue and Black - 199 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 0[ the mixture of Red and Yellow - 200 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 Of the mixture of Red and Fawn - 203 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 Of the mixture of Red and Black - - 204 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIir. 
 Of the mixture of Yellow and Fawn colours 205 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 Of the mixture of Yellow and Black - 206 
 
 CHAPTER XXX. 
 Of the mixture of Fawn colour and Black ibid. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI. 
 
 Pf the principal mixtures of the primitive Colours by 
 three and three - _ - 210 
 
 CHAPTER XXXir. 
 
 The method of blending Wool of different colours, for 
 mixed Cloth or Stuffs - - 214 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIII. 
 The method of preparing Felts for trial 216 
 
 CHAPTER XXXrV. 
 The Method of Dying Woolens falfe Colours 219 
 
 CHAPTER XXXV. 
 Of Fbck or Goats Hair - - 220 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVI. 
 Of ArchiLj and the method of ufing it 230 
 
 CHAPTER 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVn. 
 Of Logwood _ . - Page 240 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVIII. 
 
 OfBrafilWood - - - 045 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIX. 
 
 OfFuftic _ - . - 250 
 
 C H A P T E R XL. 
 
 OfRocou _ - - . 251 
 
 CHAPTER XLI. 
 
 Of French Berries _ . - 253 
 
 CHAPTER XLn. 
 
 Of Turmeric _ - - /^/V. 
 
 JnJiruSfions. 
 
 The proof Liquor for Wool and Woolen fluffs 254 
 
 PART IL 
 
 The Art of Dying Silk. 
 
 Ungumming and boiling for white • 267 
 
 For boiling of filks intended to be Dyed 269 
 
 Ohfervations on ungumming and boiling - 271 
 
 Of White - - - 273 
 
 Of Whitening _ - _ 275 
 
 Sulphuring _ _ _ _ 276 
 
 Ohfervations on Whitening and fulphuring 277 
 
 Of Aluming _ _ _ 280 
 
 Remarks on aluming - - - 283 
 
 Of Blue - - - - 284 
 
 Remarks on the Blue of Indigo - - 288 
 
 Of Yellow - - - - 295 
 
 Remarks on Yellow - - 2q8 
 Aurora, Orange, Mordore, Gold colour and Chamois 299 
 
 Red and Crimibn - - _ 004 
 
 Remarks on Crimfon - - 307 
 
 Of Falfe Crimfon or the Red of Brafil - 312 
 
 Remarks on the red, or Crimfon of Brafil wood 314 
 
 Of Scaiict, Orange, Red, and Cherry colour 317 
 
 Preparatioft 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Preparation of the Carthamus or Baftard fafFron Page 318 
 Remarks on the Dye of Carthamus or Baftard fafFron 
 
 324 
 Of the Falfe Poppy or Fire colour produced with Brafil 
 
 Wood - - - - 326 
 
 Falfe Rofe colour - . - - 328 
 
 Of Green . - _ . 329 
 
 Remaks - - - . 333 
 
 Of Olives - - - ibid. 
 
 Remarks _ _ - - 334 
 
 Of Violet - - - 335 
 
 Of fine Violet, or Violet in grain - - ibid. 
 
 Of Falfe or common Violets or Lilac - 338 
 
 Of the Violet of Logwood - - 341 
 
 Violet of Logwood and Verdigris - - 343 
 
 Violets of Brafil and Logwood - 344 
 
 Remarks - - - ibid. 
 
 Violets from Brafil wood and Archil - 345 
 
 Of Purple, Gilly-flower, and of fine Cochineal or Purple 
 
 346 
 Of Falfe Purple - - . - 347 
 
 Of Marones, Cinnamons and white Lees - 348 
 
 Remarks _ _ _ 34^ 
 
 Of Nut Greys, Thorn Greys, Black and Iron Greys, and 
 
 others of the fame fpecies - - 351 
 
 Of Black - - _ 356 
 
 Softening of Black - - 364 
 
 Black in the raw - - - ibid. 
 
 Remarks on Black - - 368 
 
 Particular Process Communicated hy M. Hellot 
 
 369 
 Genoa Crimfon, a procefs proved in May, 1743 372 
 
 Violet Crimfon of Italy - 377 
 
 Half Violet - - _ ibid. 
 
 Genoa Black for Velvets - ibid. 
 
 PART lU. 
 
 The Art of Dying Cotton and Linen Thread together with the 
 method of Jiamping Silks Cottons, is'c. 
 
 Of Dying in general - - 385 
 
 Enquiry concerning Wool, Silk, Cotton and Flax 387 
 
 Of Wool - - 388 
 
 Of Silk - - - 389 
 
 Of Cotton . _ . 290 
 
 Of Flax - - « 391 
 
 Conclufion 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 ConcliiHon from the examination of fubftances commonly 
 
 dved - - - 394 
 
 Of Bleaching _ _ _ ^96 
 
 Preparation for fluff to be dyed - 4.02 
 
 Aflringents _ - _ 405 
 
 Theory of dying fluffs prepared with alum 408 
 
 Of colouring fubdances - - 410 
 
 Of Cochineal and cohouring infeiSls - 417 
 
 Of Madder _ _ - 423 
 
 Of Vegetables furnifhing a yellow Dye - 430 
 Of the colouring Drugs ufed in Dying without aflringents 
 
 Of Indigo _ _ _ 439 
 
 Of fubftances ufed in dying Fawn and root colour 442 
 
 Of Carthamus, Rocou &c. - 443 
 
 Of Black - - 445 
 
 Of Dying of Cotton TJjread. 
 
 OrCleanfing - - 449 
 Of the Colours employed for the Dying of Cotton Thread 
 
 450 
 
 Of Blue - - - ibid. 
 
 Of Red - - 455 
 
 Adrianople Red - 465 
 
 Of Yellow - - 471 
 
 Of Green - - 473 
 
 Of Violet - - 47s 
 
 Of Red Cinnamon - - 478 
 
 Of Black - - ibid. 
 Black for Linen and Cotton Thread by a Combination of 
 
 Colours _ _ _ 4g^ 
 
 Of more durable Grays - - 484 
 
 Of A'lufk colour - - - 485 
 
 Olive and Duck Greens - - ibid. 
 
 Of Browns, Marones, CcfFee colours, &c. 486 
 
 Of fiik fluffs dyed of feveral colours - ibid. 
 
 The manner of flamping filks,&c. in Europe 494 
 
 Of a Linen with a Blue Ground and White Pattern 497 
 
 Of Saxon Blue , - - 502 
 
 THE 
 
TH E 
 
 ART OF DYING WOOL. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 EFORE we proceed to the Art of Dying 
 Wool, it is necellliry to give fome idea of 
 the primitive colours, or rather of thofe 
 which are fo called by the Dyers ; for they have 
 no affinity with thofe properly fo denominated 
 by Sir Ifaac Newton. The Dyers call them 
 primitive, becaufe, from the nature of the in- 
 gredients by which they are produced, they 
 become the bafis of every other colour. This 
 divifion of colours is not peculiar to the Art 
 of Dying Wool ; it is common to the Dyers of 
 Silk, Thread, &c. 
 
 The primitive colours are five, viz. blue, red, 
 yello'-ju, fawn or raot-colour, and hlack\ each of 
 which furnifhes a great number of Ihades, and 
 from the combination of thefe fhades are pro- 
 duced all the colours in nature. Confiderabic 
 changes in thefe feveral colours are produced 
 by ingredients which are themfelves colourlefs, 
 juch as acid, alkaline and neutral falts, lime, 
 urine, arfenic, alum, &c. Wool and Woolen 
 B % Stuffs, 
 
 D. H. H\Ul- UBRARY 
 North Carokina State College 
 
j^ THE ART OF 
 
 Stuffs are generally prepared for dying by means 
 of fome of thefe. Hence it is evident that an 
 infinite variety of effefls muft neceifarily refult 
 from a mixture of thefe feveral chemical fub- 
 fiances, and from the various methods of ufing 
 them J hence it is alfo obvious, that the Art of 
 Dying requires fome knowledge, fcrupulous ac- 
 curacy, and great attention. 
 
 C H A P. I. 
 
 Of the Vejfels and Utenftls lijed. in Dying, 
 
 YOUR Dye-houfe muft be fpacious and 
 lightfome, and as near as pofTible to a 
 running ftream, water being abfolutely necef- 
 fary for preparing your Woolens, and for 
 rincing them after they are dyed. Your floor 
 ihould be a mixture of lime and cement, and in- 
 clining, fo that the water and old vats, which 
 are thrown over it in great abundance, may run 
 off cafily. 
 
 The moft commodious method, is, to fix two 
 or more Vats, according to your quantity of 
 work, about eight or ten feet from your coppers. 
 Thefe Woad Vats are of the greateft impor- 
 tance, as the fetting and heating, that is to fay, 
 preparing and properly regulating them, for the 
 blue colour, is the greateft difficulty in the Art 
 of Dying. 
 
 Thefe vefTels are from ten to twelve feet in dia- 
 meter, and fix or feven feet high j they are made of 
 
 ftave^ 
 
DYING WOOL. 5 
 
 ftaves fix Inches broad, and two inches thick; are 
 bound with iron hoopsabouttwoor threefeetafun- 
 der,andarefunkintheground,fortheconveniency 
 of managing their contents ; which is done by 
 means of hooks faftened to the end of a ftafF, of a 
 proper length according to the diameter o/your 
 Vat. The bottom of thefe veflels is made with 
 lime and cement; but this however is not efTen- 
 tial, and is pradifed only becaufe it would be 
 difficult to make a wooden bottom llrong enouo-h 
 to fiipport the contents-of fo large a veflel. "" 
 
 When you mean to dye Wool or Stuff", pre- 
 pared according to my diredions in Chap. IV 
 you fufpend within the veffel an iron hoop, 
 with a net faftened to it, the melhes about an 
 inch fquare. This is called a crofs, and is ufed 
 to prevent the Wool or Stuff" from falling and 
 mixing with the grounds at the bottom. You 
 ti-iay fufpend this machine to what height you 
 pleale, by means of threeor four cords faftened to 
 the edge of the Vat. 
 
 There is another utenfil called a Rake, which 
 IS a ftrong femicircular piece of wood, with a 
 long wooden handle. This Rake is ufed for 
 ftirnng the Vat; that is to fay, for mixing the 
 grounds with the liquor, and for raifing the 
 fedimcnt from the bottom of the Vat. It is alfa " 
 "fed for daffiing or plunging the Vat, that is, 
 to puOi the furface quick and forcibly towards 
 the bottom, which by introducing the Air, forms 
 little bubbles, or a kind of froth, by which you 
 may judge of the ftateof your Vat, as I fhall ex- 
 plain hereafter. 
 
 B 3 You 
 
6 THEARTOF 
 
 You mufl alfo have a T^ranchoir which is a kind 
 of wooden fhovel, ufcd for meafuring the lime, 
 into the Vatj but I fhall dcfcribe this utenfil 
 in my direftions for fetting the Vat, and will, 
 as I proceed, give an explanation of fuch tech- 
 nical terms, as I fhall be obliged to ufe. 
 
 The fize of thefe Vats, as it depends upon 
 choice or ncceflity, is undetermined. Vats con- 
 taining CO, or even 15 Gallons, are frequently 
 prepared with fuccefs; but thefe fmall Veflels 
 fhould be furrounded with dung or brick work, 
 or fome other means fhould be ufed to prevent 
 them from cooling too fall, elfc they are liable 
 to fail. 
 
 There is alfo a different kind of Vat prepared 
 for blue, called an ladigo Vat, becaufe it is 
 coloured with Indigo only. But the Dyers, who 
 life the Woad Vats, are not, in general, provided 
 with this. Neverthelefs as it requires a different 
 VefTel, a defcription of it may be ufcful. 
 
 This VefTel is generally five ittt high, and at 
 the top, two feet in diameter. It grows narrower 
 downwards, and meafures only 8 or 10 inches 
 at the bottom. It is funk a foot, or a foot and 
 half, for the convenicncy of working. There 
 mufl be a cylindrical wall built round it, as 
 high as the Vat, upon which the edge of the 
 Vat is fupported. This wall being perpen- 
 dicular, and quite flraight at the infide, con- 
 fequently cylindrical, and the VefTel which it 
 furrounds of a conic form, it is evident there 
 mufl be fome fpace at the bottom. In this 
 fpace the coal and cinders, requifite for keep- 
 ing the Vat properly heated, are depofired, and 
 
 for 
 
DYING WOOL. 7 
 
 for this purpofe there is a little door or opening 
 to put in the coal which is pufhed round the 
 Vat, to preferve, as much as poflible, an equal 
 degree of heat. The Indigo immediately falls 
 to the bottom of this copper Vatj but by this 
 method of fetting the Vat, the fire is above the 
 Indigo, confequently it can neither burn nor lofe 
 -any of its quality. The fame precaution fhould 
 be obferved with regard to the Dutch P^^/ Vats, 
 as Ihall be mentioned hereafter. 
 
 You muft be careful, not to extinguifh 
 your fire too fuddenly, and fhould therefore fix 
 an iron or ftone funnel, from the bottom, where 
 the coal is depofited, to the top of the Vat. This 
 funnel, for the greater conveniency, fhould be 
 carried along the wall, againft which the Vat is 
 commonly fupported. For flirring the liquor of 
 this Vat, you muft have a Rake, but of alrnaller 
 fize than that ufed with the pafiel Vat. You 
 may alfo ufe a Crofs; but this however is not 
 neceffary, becaufe thefe fmall Vats are feldom 
 ufed but for hanks of filk, or worfled, and thefe 
 are not left intirely loofe, left they fhould burn; 
 confequently, as they are not long enough to 
 reach to the bottom, they cannot touch the 
 ground or fediment. 
 
 I have already obferved, that it is pofTible to 
 fet a fmall /^/^/ Vat, but you may, with much 
 lefs difHculty, fet an Indigo Vat as fmall as you 
 pleafe. I have myfelf prepared one in a cryftal 
 cucurbite containing one gallon, and another of 
 one pint only, in a fmaller cucurbite. But when 
 I defcribe the Indigo Vat, I will mention the 
 neceflary precautions to be taken for its fuccefs. 
 
 B 4 Befides 
 
8 TH E A RT OF 
 
 Befides thefe Vats, it is neceflary to have feverai 
 coppers of different fizes, according to what 
 quantity of work you mean to do at one tinne. 
 They may be either copper or brafs; but the 
 copper is better, being lefs apt to fpot where it 
 touches, or when the wool or ftuff is fuffered to 
 . remain in it for any time. 
 
 It were alfo adrifable to have a pewter vefTel 
 for fcarlet, becaufe in pewter, the worded or fluffs 
 never fpot, whereas the contrary is much to 
 be dreaded from a copper cauldron. The Dyers 
 who make ufe of the latter for fcarlet, take care to 
 have a net of cords or an open wic\«r-bafket at- 
 the infide, to prevent the fluffs from touching 
 the copper. The diameter of the net or bafket, 
 being much fmaller than the diameter of the caul- 
 dron, there confequently remains a confiderabie 
 diflance between them. But notwithftanding all 
 thefe precautions, many are of opinion, that fcar- 
 let dyed in copper, is neither fo bright, nor fo 
 lively as when dyed in a pewter veffel. But this 
 fhall be the fubjedl of my chapter upon Scar- 
 let. 
 
 Thefe feverai cauldrons fhould be fixed con- 
 tigiousto each other, and, as nearly as poffible, of 
 the fame height, fo that the deepefl veffel fhould 
 be funk the lowed. They fhould be furrounded 
 by a wall made of brick and clay, the outfide of 
 which fhould have a coat of plaifler j and, to pre- 
 ferve the whole, the wall fhould be coped with 
 wheel-felloes, held together by iron cramps! The 
 flat edge of the cauldron fhould be nailed to the 
 felloes with brafs nails, becaufe iron nails w*ould 
 fpot the fluffs. Thefe felloes ferve alfo to 
 
 prevent 
 
DYING WOOL. g 
 
 prevent the water, when it boils over, from car- 
 rying dirt into the copper. For the fame reafon 
 a plank fhould be fixt between the coppers, that, 
 when two are employed at the fame time^ the 
 liquor of the one may not fall into the other. But 
 this caution will be needlefs, if there be room 
 enough to place thefc coppers at a tolerable dif- 
 tance from each other. 
 
 Thefe cauldrons are heated underneath; and 
 for the greater conveniency, the hearths of all the 
 <;op^ers,. as well as the flues are inclofed under the 
 fame chi'mpey. Thefeflues are openings, by which 
 the-lfrf^aK-and partof the flame is carried off; 
 the fize of thefe openings, that of the hearth, and 
 the depth of the furnace (w'z .the diftance of the 
 bottom of the copper from the hearth where the fire 
 is made) are determined by the fize of the cop- 
 pers j but the mantle-piece of the chimney fliould 
 always cover every opening, and fhould project to 
 the edge of the copper, in order to receive all the 
 fmoak, fo that none may remain in the dye-houfe. 
 It is fcarce poflible to give any determined plan 
 with regard to the fixing of thefe coppers in a 
 dye-houfe, as that depends, in a great meafure, oa 
 your quantity of work. 
 
 There fliould be holes made in the mantle-piece 
 over each of the coppers, capable of admitting 
 poles about as thick as youf arm, and about five 
 feet and half above the coppers. Thefe poles are 
 ufed for draining the hanks of worflied or filk, 
 and forfmall pieces of fl:uff, fo that the liquor may 
 fall into the copper. For this purpofe, you pafs 
 fmall rods, through all the hanks, which rods reft 
 upon the poles, 
 
 ^ When 
 
10 THE ART OF 
 
 When you dye a whole piece of fluff, or feveral 
 pieces at a time, you make ufe of aWince. This 
 Wince is a wooden axis with a handle, upon which 
 axis are faftened, four fiat pieces of wood, at 
 equal diftances. 
 
 You turn this machine with the hand, refting 
 the two extremes of its axis on two iron forks, 
 fixed into holes in the wooden felloes by which the 
 edge of the copper is fupported. You roll one 
 end of the fluff round this Wince or Reel, and, by- 
 turning it quick, wind the whole onto itj youthen 
 turn it the contrary way, rolling on the other end 
 ofthcfluff firfl,andby continuing in this manner, 
 you dye the whole as even aspoffible. If your piece 
 of fluff be rather long, or if you have many 
 pieces to die of the fame colour, you few the ends 
 together; the Reel is then put through the middle, 
 and turned in the manner above mentioned. 
 
 If you want to die Wool before it be fpun, you 
 mufl have a kind of Wooden Ladder, or Barrow, 
 very broad, and as long as the diameter of the 
 copper. The crofs laths of this utenfil Ihould 
 be very near each other. On this Barrow, placed 
 upon the copper, you put your Wool, in order ta 
 drain, or to change the liquor. It were needlefs 
 to mention the neceffity of keeping this Barrow 
 and Reel very clean. The fame attention fhould 
 be obferved with regard to the coppers, and to 
 all the different utenfils, ufed in the Art of 
 Dying. It is evident, that without this attention 
 your work will be conllantly foiled, and the 
 brightnefs of the colour tarnifhed. Hence it is 
 impoffible to fay too much on the necefTity of 
 cleanlinefs, in the feveral operations of this art. 
 
 I fhall 
 
DYING WOOL. XI 
 
 I fhall not defcribe the other furniture of the 
 Dye-houfe comnnonly ufed: they are univerfally 
 known; fuch as Cauldrons, Skellets,Buckets,Cafks, 
 Barrels, Shovels, Wooden-Covers for the Coppers, 
 Tubs, Foot-Boards, Mortars, VefTels of Stone or 
 Glafs, for metallic folutions. Pokers, befidesmany 
 other .utenfils, which need no defcription. 
 
 It is neceOary to have a copper -ladle for 
 emptying the liquor out of the cauldron after it 
 has yielded all its colour. This ladle has a 
 wooden handle, and contains about two gallons. 
 Wooden bowls are alfo ufed for emptying the 
 copper, which is then cleaned with a rufh befom 
 and fand, and afterwards wiped and dryed with a 
 fpunge. In large Dye-houfes, they folder to the 
 bottom of the largeft cauldrons, a brafs pipe 
 with a cock at the out-fide, in order to empty the 
 coppen This cock difcharges itfelf into a chan- 
 nel which paffing under the floor, runs off into 
 the neareft drain. 
 
 Thefe, I think, are all the inflruftlons that can 
 be given, concerning the tools and utenfils com- 
 monly ufed in dying. If there be any omitted, 
 I fhall recoiled them as occafion may offer to 
 dired their ufe. 
 
 C H A P. 
 
la THE ART OF 
 
 CHAP. n. ^ 
 
 Of theYiymn and Fugitive commonly called Gkilkt 
 and Little Dye. 
 
 WOOL may be dyed either true or falfe. 
 The firft is done by ufing fuch drugs or 
 ingredients, as to produce a colour fo permanent, 
 that it is neither affected by the air, nor liable 
 to fpotj the falfe colour, on the contrary, foon 
 fades, efpecially if expofed to the fun, and almolt 
 any liquid will fpot it in fuch a manner that it is 
 fcarce ever poffible to reilore it to its original 
 brightnefs. 
 
 It may perhaps fecm aftonifhing that having it 
 in our power to dye all colours true, we Ihould 
 be permitted to make ufe of an inferior method j 
 but it is difficult I may fay, almofl: impofTiblc, to 
 abolilh the cuftom, for the tliree following reafons: 
 Firft, becaufethis method is in general much lefs 
 difficult: Secondly, the falfe colours are generally 
 the moil bright and lively : The third and doubt- 
 lefs tlie moft prevalent reafon of all is, that the 
 Fugitive Colour is dyed at a much cheaper rate. 
 Were there no other motive, the Dyers would en- 
 deavour to avail themfelves of the cheapeft me- 
 thod; government, for this reafon, hath prefcribed 
 certain regulations. 
 
 Thefe regulations fpecify what kind of Woolens 
 and Stuffs fhall be dyed true; and this it deter- 
 mined by the deftination of the vvorfted, and 
 the price of the fluffs. Worfled for working 
 canvas, tapeftry, and for all ftuffs exceeding 
 
 forty 
 
DYI-NG WOOL. 13 
 
 ^orty Sols an ell, muft be dyed true; but coarfe 
 worded, defignedfor thetapeftry called 5(?;-^^/;z^" and 
 ^oint de Hongrie^ may be dyed falfe. Such is the 
 purport of M. Colbert's regulations, and thofe of 
 M. Orry, comptroller-general of the finances in 
 1-733, are grounded upon the fame principles. 
 Thefe lail: have removed a number of difficulties 
 which prevented the execution of the former, 
 with fuch additions as were neceffary for prevent- 
 ing, or difcovering all poffible evafions. 
 
 For this purpofe, the Dyers of the Great Dye 
 compofe a feparate body, and are not permitted 
 to employ, or even to keep fuch ingredients as 
 are appropriated to the inferior Dyers. 
 
 As it was impoffible, either from the information 
 of the different Dyers, or from the fludy of the 
 Regulations^ to difcover any pofitive diflindion 
 between the true and falfe, or great and lejler dye, 
 it was nccefTary in order to afcertain this matter, to 
 take the following method ; which, though the 
 longeft and mofl difficult, is the moft certain, ormore 
 properly fpeaking, the only method, which could 
 be relied on. The late M.du Fay of the Royal 
 Academy of Sciences, was chofen by the mini- 
 fter to make thefe necelTary experiments, con- 
 cerning this art. For this purpofe, he dyed, at his 
 own houfe. Woolens of all colours, with every 
 ingredient ufed in dying, whether true or falfe. 
 He had even brought from different provinces, 
 fome which were not ufed in Paris. In fhort he 
 €ollefted every drug which he thought mighc 
 poiTibly be ufed for dying, and tryed them without 
 any regard to the prejudices of the Dyers^ con- 
 |:erning their good or bad qnalities, 
 
 He 
 
14 THEARTOF 
 
 He began his experiments on worfleds; but he 
 found afterwards that bits of white cloth were 
 more convenient. 
 
 In order to difcover which of the colours were 
 permanent, and which not, he had patterns of 
 all the colours, which had been dyed under his 
 own infpedion, expofed to the fun and air, 
 during twelve days. This tryal was evidently 
 decifive, the true colours being not at all, or but 
 very little, the worfe; whereas the falfe were 
 almoft intirely faded j fo that, after twelve days 
 expofition to the fummer's fun and night air, 
 there remained very little doubt concerning the 
 clafs in which the different colours fhould be 
 ranged. 
 
 Neverthelefs, as feveral of thefe colours had 
 not been expofed to the fun precifely at the fame 
 time, nor in the fame feafon, there ftill remained 
 a doubt; for fome of them, having had more of 
 the fun than others, were more faded, in the fame 
 number of days. This inconvenience, however, 
 he remedied in fuch a manner that there remained 
 no longer, either doubt or difficulty, with regard 
 to the fufficiency of his tryals. He pitched upon 
 one of the worft colours, that is to fay, the colour 
 upon which the fun had had the moft fenfible 
 effedl in the fpace of twelve days. This colour 
 ferved him as a ftandard through the whole courfe 
 of his experiments; for whenever he expofed his 
 patterns, he alfo expofed a pattern of this piece of 
 fluff at the fame time, no longer attending to the 
 number of days, but to the colour of his ftandard, 
 which he left out, 'till it became as much faded, as 
 thofe which had been expofed for twelve fummer 
 I days. 
 
DYING WOOL. 15 
 
 days. As he conftantly made a memorandum of 
 the day, when he expofed his patterns, he found 
 that, in winter, four or five days were fufficient to 
 bring them to his ftandard. By purfuing this 
 method, there remained no longer any doubt con- 
 cerning the accuracy of his experiments. 
 
 But in thefe experiments, he had flill another 
 objed: in view, viz. to find a proof liquor for 
 every colour : that is, a liquor in which the 
 fluffs are boiled, in order to difcover whether the 
 dye be true or falfe. He boiled his patterns, in a 
 folution of alum, of tartar, of foap, in vinegar, 
 in lemon juice, &c. and by their effed on the 
 colour, he was enabled to judge of its quality. 
 The feveral liquors ufed till the year 1733, were 
 not dccifive. They fometimes difcharged a good 
 colour, without doing much damage to a bad one. 
 He was therefore obliged to ellablifh feveral, each 
 of them ferving for a certain number of colours, 
 as will be feen at the conclufion of this treatife : 
 it may be neceflary however to add a few words, 
 to fhew the method he purfued in the difcovery 
 of thefe proof liquors. 
 
 Having perceived the effe6t of the air upon 
 each colour, he tryed different kinds of folutious 
 on the fame pattern, and fixed upon that which 
 had made a change in the colour equal to what 
 the air had produced. By afcertaining the weight 
 of the matter diffolved, the quantity of water, 
 and the time of tryal, he was certain of producing 
 the fame efFe<fl on the colour, as would be pro- 
 duced by the air, fuppofmg both patterns to be 
 dyed in the fame manner. Having tryed all 
 colours, and every ingredient:, he, by this means, 
 
 which 
 
i6 THEARTOF 
 
 which one might think infallible, afcertained the 
 good and bad qualities of every colour, by thus, 
 as it were, analyfing each ingredient. ^ It were 
 unjuft, not to acknowledge M.Dufay's ingenuity 
 in his method of difcovering the reality and lia- 
 bility of colours by boilingj for it is evident that 
 tryals by expofition to the air and fun is impradi- 
 cable in cafes where immediate determination is 
 required, as when goods are bought at fairs. 
 
 The proof liquors of the new InJiruBionSy pub- 
 lifhed in confequence of M. Dufay's Memoir, 
 difchargedin a few minutes, as muchof rhe colour, 
 if not of the Great Dye, as would have been loft by 
 "expofuretothe air for twelve or fifteen days. But as 
 general rules, for fuch tryals, are liable to many 
 exceptions, impolTible to be forefeen, or explained 
 without creating confufion and innumerable dif- 
 putes, it follows, that rules which are too general 
 may be, alfo too ftridl, in many cafes, where 
 the light colours require either a fmaller quan- 
 tity, or lefs adlive falts, than the darker colours, 
 which m^ay lofe a confiderable quantity of their 
 colouring ingredient, without any very vifible 
 alteration. It fliould therefore feem. necefPary to 
 prefcribe a different liquor for every Ihade, 
 which, confidering their infinite variety, would 
 be impoITible. Hence the air and fun is the befl 
 criterion, and therefore every colour which is 
 proof againft their effefts, for a certain time, or 
 which thereby becomes of a deeper colour, ought 
 to be deemed good, even though it fhould bt 
 altered confiderably by the liquor prefcribed in 
 the new InjiruBlions . Scarlet for infcance, this 
 colour being almoft intirely difcharged by foap, 
 
 was 
 
DYING WOOL. 17 
 
 Was fubmitted to a tryal of alum. If dyed with 
 cochineal only, without any other mixture or 
 colouring ingredient, it will become purple. 
 Neverthelefs, fcarlet expofed to the fun, lofes a 
 great part of its brightnefs, and becomes deeper; 
 but this deep fhade is different from the colour 
 which it acquires from the alum. Hence, proof 
 liquors, in certain cafes, cannot be fubftituted for 
 the air and fun, at leaft as to the fimilarity of 
 cffedl. 
 
 From the Brafil woodj I have obtained a much 
 finer red, than that of Madder, and as bright as 
 that procured from the grain of Kermes. This 
 red, by mean's of a particular preparation, which 
 (liall be mentioned in proper time, being expofed 
 to the air, during the two laft months of the year 
 1 740,which was, as may be remembered, very rainy, 
 and during the two firft months of the year 1741, 
 notwithftandingthe rain and bad weather, proved 
 very permanent; and fo far from fading) acquired 
 a deeper fhade. Neverthelefs this colour yielded 
 to a folution of tartar. Ought it therefore to be 
 condemned ? Are fluffs, ufed for garments, to be 
 boiled with tartar, alum, or foap? I do not how- 
 ever prefume to difapprove of tryals by liquors; 
 they are ufeful becaufe quick; but in fome cafes, 
 not fufficient for condemnation, efpeciallyas they 
 do not determine whether a colour be dyed ingrain 
 or not i}i grain. Having given thefe preliminary 
 ideas, refpe6ting the diftinftioh of colours, it is 
 neceffary to difcribe the pra<5lice of the dyers of 
 each clafs. 
 
 C CHAP. 
 
1% Theartof 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 Of Colours in grain. 
 
 A LL permanent colours, as I have already faid, 
 •^ ^ are called true colours, or colours in grain, 
 and the others, not in grain, are falfe colours. 
 
 I have learnt from experiment, the beft guide 
 in philofophy, as well as in the Arts, that the 
 difference of colours, according to the preceding 
 diftindlion, depends partly on the preparation of 
 the fubjeil to be dyed, and partly upon the colour- 
 ing materials. Hence I am of opinion that it 
 may be received as a general principle, of the Art 
 in queftion, that the invifible mechanifm of dying, 
 confifts in dilating the pores of the body, you 
 mean to dye; to depofite in them the particles of 
 a foreign fubftance; to confine them by fome kind 
 of cement, fo that neither rain, nor fun, can 
 pofTible alter them; to chufe the colouring par- 
 ticles of fuch a tenuity as to penetrate and be re- 
 tained, by being fufficiently wedged into the 
 pores of the fubjeft when dilated by the heat of 
 boiling water, and afterwards contra(fled by cold, 
 and finally covered with a kind of maftick, left by 
 the fait ufed in preparation. Whence it follows 
 that the pores of thfe fibres of the Woolen, either 
 fabricated, or to be fabricated into (luffs, ought 
 to becleanfed, expanded, cemented, or glued, and 
 then contracted, that the colour-atoms may be 
 retained, or faftened, as it were, like a diamond 
 in the beazel, or collet of a ring. 
 
 From repeated experiments, I am alfo taught 
 that every ingredient for dying in grain, has in 
 
 fome 
 
DYING WOOL. 19 
 
 fome degree, an aftringent, and precipitating qua-, 
 licy ; that this quality is fufficient to feparate the 
 earth of alum, one of the falts ufcd in the prepa- 
 ration of Wool before it be dyed, and that this 
 earth, mixed with the colouring atoms, forms a 
 kind of lacker, fomething like what painters ufe, 
 but infinitely finer; that in bright colours, fuch 
 as Scarlet, where alum cannot be ufed, it is 
 necelTary to fubflitute for this earth, which is 
 always white, when the alum is good, fome 
 other body that may fupply the colouring atoms 
 with a bafis equally white; that tin gives this 
 bafis in the Scarlet dye; that when all thefe 
 minute atoms of the colouring earthy lacker, 
 are diftributed through the pores of the dilated 
 fubjed, the gluten which the tartar (another 
 fait ufcd in the preparation) depofites, ferves to • 
 cement thefe atoms, and finally, that the 
 contraftion of the pores, occafioned by the 
 cold, confines them. 
 
 Probably the falfe colours are defedivc only 
 becaufe the fubjeft is not fufficiently prepared ; 
 and the colouring particles being depofited 
 only on the fmooth furface, or in pores 
 not enough dilated for their reception, the 
 lead accident muft inevitably detach them. 
 If a method of fupplying colouring parts of 
 dying-woods with the neceflary ailringency 
 could be difcovered, and, at the fame time 
 the Wool properly prepared, as it is prepared to 
 receive the red of Madder, I am convinced, frorn 
 at lead thirty experiments, that thefe woods 
 might be rendered as ufeful to Dyers in Grain, 
 C 2 as 
 
20 THEARTOF 
 
 as they have hitherto been to the fecond clafs of 
 
 Dyers. 
 
 I Ihall give a proper application to the pre- 
 ceeding rules in the fequel of this work, where 
 I fhall not fail to explain what has determined 
 me to adopt them as general principles. 
 
 What are called by the Dyers, primitive 
 colours, are five in number, viz. Blue, Red, Yellow, 
 Fawn colour, and Black. I fhall not, in this 
 place, give a tedious, and almoft needlefs de- 
 fcription of every ingredient neccflary for dying 
 thefe colours in Grain, nor yet of thofe which 
 are only ufed in falfe colours; neither fhall I 
 mention thofe which are prohibited on account 
 of their bad qualities of fretting, hardening, 
 and deftroying the Wool. The reader is 
 yet ignorant of thefe ingredients, and I think 
 it beft not to mention them> till I treat of the 
 particular colours, in the compofition of which 
 they may be introduced. Thofe who would 
 choofe to fee a catalogue of thefe ingredients, 
 collefted under one view, and ranged in their 
 proper clafles, according to their good or bad 
 qualities, need only confult the Regulaticns. 
 
 I now proceed to examine the five primitive 
 colours above-mentioned, and will give the 
 different methods of preparing them, inafolid 
 and permanent manner, conformable to the 
 Regulations for Dyers in Grain, 
 
 CHAP 
 
D Y I N G W O O L. Jl 
 
 C H A P. IV. 
 
 Of Blue. 
 
 1T700L, or Woolens to be dyed Blue, 
 ' ^ require no other preparation than that 
 of foaking them well in common warm water, 
 and then fqueezing or draining. This precau- 
 tion is necelTary in order to facilitate an equal 
 introduction of the colour into the body of 
 the Wool. The fame preparation is neceflary for 
 colours of every kind, and requifite both for 
 Worfted and Woolen Stuffs. 
 
 Wool in the fleece, for the fabrication of 
 cloth, either to be mixed, or otherwife, and 
 which, for this reafon, is obliged to be dyed, 
 before it be fpun, requires a different prepara- 
 tion, in order to take out the greafe, viz. to 
 deprive it of the natural fat which it has imbibed 
 from the animal, and which is never extra6ted, 
 till prepared for being dyed \the natural fat adher- 
 ing to the Wool prejerues it from being fretted by 
 the moth.'l This operation being the bufinefs 
 of the Dyers, and indifpenfably neceffary for 
 all Woolens which are to be dyed before they 
 are fpun, be the colour what it may, I fhall 
 now defcribe. The procefs is not, however, 
 always exadly the famej but the following is 
 the method ufed in the manufadory at Andely 
 in Normandy, where cloth is remarkably well 
 fabricated : 
 
 They put twelve buckets of water ^nd four of 
 
 fermented urine into a large copper, capable of 
 
 holding twenty buckets. The copper is then 
 
 C 3 heated 
 
t2 THEARTOF 
 
 heated, till you can bear your finger in the liquor, 
 into which they throw ten or twelve pounds of 
 Wool in its natural ftate, viz. before it is cleanfed. 
 They fuffer it to remain in the copper about a 
 quarter of an hour, ftirring it with a ftick fiom 
 time to time : it is then taken out, and fet, for 
 a moment, to drain on the barrow or ladder 
 (mentioned in the defcription of the dying uten- 
 fils) from whence it is carried in a large fquare 
 baflcet, which bafket is put into a running water, 
 where two men keep moving it for a confiderable 
 time from one to the other, with long flicks, 
 till the fat is entirely extracted. While any of 
 this fat remains in the Wool the water is whitifli 
 and muddy, confequently, when the water is 
 clear it is a fign that the Wool is fufficiently 
 clean ; you then take it out, and put it in a 
 hamper to drain. While the firft Wool is in 
 the bafket, you put into the copper a fecond 
 parcel of an equal quantity, and fo on, till your 
 wool is all clean. If the liquor diminiflies too 
 faft, the copper mufl be repieniflied with the 
 fame compofition of one part urine, to three 
 parts water. They generally fcour a bale of 
 Wool at the fame tim.e. If it weighs 250 pounds 
 while fat, it generally diminifhes fi.xty pounds, 
 and when clean and dry, weighs no more than 
 190 pounds. It is evident that this diminution 
 mufl vary according to the quantity of fat 
 contained in the Wool, or in proportion to the 
 accuracy of its extradlion. But it is impofTible 
 to be too urgent upon the fubjeft of cleanfing 
 the Wool, becaufe it is thereby better difpofed 
 
 to receive the colour. 
 
 This 
 
D Y I N G W O O L. 23 
 
 This fweat, or fat, is, in fome degree, a uri- 
 nous perfpiration of the flieep, which is pre- 
 vented from flying off by the thicknefs of the 
 fleece, where it is retained, being indiflbluble 
 in water; hence water alone cannot fcour it; 
 a fourth part urine is therefore added to the 
 copper; but this urine fhould be kept till it 
 begins to fmell, in order to develope the vola- 
 tile falts by fermentation. Thefe volatile falts, 
 being an alkali, form, with the greafe, a kind 
 of foap, which is always produced by the union 
 of an oily fubftance, with any alkali what- 
 foever. As foon as the foap is formed by the 
 combination of thefe two fubft:ances, it is folu- 
 able in water, and therefore eafily waflied out. 
 Soap is evidently formed by this operation, 
 becaufe the water which carries it ofi^ becomes 
 milky. If the copper has been fupplied with 
 enough of the fermented urine, for the quan- 
 tity of the greafe adhering to the Wool, it 
 will be perfeftly cleanfed; if deficient, the 
 whole of the fat, not being converted into 
 foap, the Wool will remain greafy. - The fame 
 operation may be performed with fixed alkali, 
 as a lye of pot-afli ; but bcfides that this lye 
 is much more expenfive than the urine, there 
 is fome danger, if you fail in the exa6t pro- 
 portion, that it nriay injure the Wool. For I 
 recoiled from various experiments, that thefe 
 kind of cauftic falts, foon deftroy all animal 
 fubftances, as Wool, Goats Hair, Silk, &c. 
 
 I muft intreat the reader to remember, though 
 I fhould make no further mention of this ope- 
 ration of fcouring, that it is neverthelefs ne- 
 C 4 ceflliry 
 
24 THEARTOF 
 
 ceflary for all Wool which is to be dyed before 
 
 it is fpun ; and even when fpun : alfo fluffs 
 
 of all kinds, Ihould be foaked, in order to 
 
 prepare them for receiving the colour more 
 
 equally. 
 
 Of the five primitive colours already men- 
 tioned, tv/o of them fhould be prepared with 
 ingredients that furnifh no colour, but which, by 
 their acidity, and the finenefs of their earth, dif- 
 pofe the pores of the Wool to receive the colour. 
 This preparation is called the Bouillon. It 
 varies in proportion to the nature and fliade of 
 the colour. The colours which more particu- 
 larly require it are the Red, the Yellow, and 
 the colours derived from them. Black requires 
 ^ particular preparation. Blue and Fawn colour 
 none; it is fpfficient that the Wool be well 
 fcoured and foaked, and even for the Blue, there 
 is nothing more required than plunging it into 
 the vat, ftirring it well, and letting it remain 
 for a longer or fiiorter time, according as you 
 would have the colour, more or lefs deep. This 
 reafon, and the necefilty of prcvioufiy giving 
 Wool a tinge for many colours, has determined 
 me to begin with the moft exadt rules for this 
 colour. Notwichftanding the very great facility 
 of dying Wool Blue, when ;:he Blue vat is 
 once prepared, it is far otherv/ife with regard to 
 the preparation of this vat, which is adlually 
 the moft difficult operation in the whole art of 
 .dying. The reft require nothing more than a 
 fimple procefs, tranfmitted from mafters to their 
 apprentices. 
 
 There 
 
DYING WOOL. 25 
 
 There are three ingredients ufed in Blue, viz. 
 Pafiel, JVoadi and Indigo, I mean to treat of 
 the preparation of each, and fhall begin with 
 the Paftel Vat. 
 
 C H A P. V. 
 
 Of the Paftel Vat, 
 
 PASTEL is a plant cultivated in Languedoc, 
 and in other parts of the kingdom. It is 
 imported in balls, generally weighing, from 
 150 to 200 pound j and refembles a colledtion 
 .of little lumps of dry earth, intermixed with 
 the fibres of plants. It is called in Latin IJatis 
 or Glaftum^ which, being gathered at a certain 
 degree of maturity, is fuffered to rot, and then 
 made into balls for drying. Various are the 
 precautions to be obferved in this preparation, 
 upon which M. Colbert, in his Regulations 
 for the Art of Dying, has given feveral articles. 
 The beft prepared Paftel comes from the Diocefs 
 of Alby. 
 
 To extrad the Blue colour, it is npcefiary to 
 have large wooden Vats, fuch as I have men- 
 tioned in the beginning of this workj the larger 
 the better. You generally take three or four 
 balls of the Paftel, ^nd, having well cleaned 
 the Vat, you proceed in the following manner: 
 
 Your copper cauldron fliould be placed as 
 near as poflible to the Vat, and then filled with 
 pond water J if the water be not fufficiently pu- 
 trid^ yow put in a handful of hay, viz. about 
 
 two 
 t>. H. HILL LIBRARY 
 •North Carolina State College 
 
26 THEARTOF 
 
 two or three pound, with eight pound of brown 
 madder, or the bark of the root. If you 
 could have the old liquor of a naadder vat, it 
 would fave frefli madder, and have a better effect. 
 When the copper is full, the fire fhould be lighted 
 under it at three o'clock in the morning. It 
 Ihould boil an hour and a quarter, fome Dyers 
 let it boil two hours and a half or three hours. 
 It is then, by means of a fpout, conveyed 
 into the Vat, which fliould be very clean, and 
 have at the bottom, a hat full of wheaten bran. 
 While the boiling liquor is running into the Vat, 
 you put in your Paftel balls, one after another, 
 in order that they may be more eafily broken, 
 mixed, and flirred with the rake. It fliould 
 indeed be continually flirred till all the hot liquor 
 is emptied out of tbe copper into the Vat, and 
 when the Vat is rather better than half full, it 
 fnould be covered with a lid, a little larger than 
 the circumference: befides this, there fhould be 
 a cloth over it, to confine the heat as clofe as 
 poffible, and then it fhould fland for four hours. 
 
 About four hours after the Vat is fee, it fhould 
 be uncovered, in order to mix it well and to give 
 it air. For every ball of Pailel, you throw 
 into it a full meafure of warCi a falfe name 
 which the Dyers give to flaked lime. This 
 meafure is a kind of wooden fiice, ufed for mea- 
 furing the lime into the Vat. It is five inches 
 broad, and three and a half long, and contains 
 about a handful of lime. After fcattering; in the 
 lime, the Vat fhould be well mJxed and covered 
 as before, except a little fpace, about the breadth 
 of your hand, to let in the air. 
 
 Four 
 
DYING WOOL. 27 
 
 Four hours afterwards it fhould be ftirred 
 again, without fupplying it with any more lime, 
 then covered, and fufFcred to ftand for three 
 hours longer, leaving, as before, a fmall open- 
 ing to let in the air. 
 
 At the expiration of three hours, it may be 
 again uncovered and well ftirred, and if it be 
 not yet ready, and come to^ according to the 
 language of the Dyers, that is, if the Blue 
 does not rife to the furface, and that it flill 
 foams, which may be known by ftriking 
 with the flat of the rake, it will be necef- 
 fary, after ftirring it well, to let it ftand an 
 hour and half longer, watching -it carefully 
 during that time, in cafe it fliould caft Blue. 
 You tlien fupply it with more water, till the 
 Vat is full, putting in as much indigo, as you 
 think proper, the Dyers, at prefent being at 
 liberty to ufe as much as they pleafe. Of this 
 foJution of indigo, which fhall be hereafter 
 explained, they generally allow one common 
 Dye-houfe kettle, for every ball of Paftel. Hay- 
 ing filled the Vat, within fix fingers of the edge, 
 you mix it well, and cover it as before. 
 
 An hour after it has been fupplied with 
 water, you give it two meafures of lime, for 
 every ball of Paftel, or in proportion to the 
 quality of the Paftel, according as you think 
 it will ufe the lime. The reader will, I hope, 
 pardon thefe exprefiions : tliis treatife being 
 written for Dyers, I am therefore obliged to fpeak 
 their language. The philofopher will have no 
 difficulty in fubftituting proper terms, which 
 ^he workmen would probably not iinderftand, 
 I ' Some 
 
28 THE ART OF 
 
 Some kind of Paftel, requiring much lefs pre- 
 paration than others, it is therefore impoflibic 
 to give rules, that would be accurate, and at the 
 fame time, general. It is however neceflary to 
 obferve, that the lime fhould not be fcattered in, 
 till the Vat be well ftirred. 
 
 Having again covered your Vat, at the expira- 
 tion of three hours, you put in a pattern, which 
 Ihould remain im.m.erfed in the liquor for three 
 hours. You then take it out, in order to exa- 
 mine the ftate of your Vat. If ready, your 
 pattern fhould be green when taken out; but, 
 by being expofed to the air, Ihould become in- 
 flantly Blue. If it be of a good green, you 
 ftir the Vat, adding one or two more meafures 
 of lime and then cover it. 
 
 You ftir it again, three hours afterwards, add- 
 ing more lime, if neceflary. You then cover 
 it, for an hour and half longer, and then, the 
 Vat being fettled, you immerle a pattern, which, 
 at the expiration of an hour, you take out again, 
 in order to fee the effeft of the Paftel. If the 
 pattern be a good green when taken out, and 
 becomes a deep Blue, by being expofed to the 
 air, you put in another pattern, in order to 
 afcertain the effecft of the Vat. If the colour 
 of your pattern be fufRciently high,' you fill your 
 Vat with hot water, or, if pofiible, with the liquor 
 of an old madder vat, and then ftir it again. 
 If you think the Vat wants lime, you add a fuf- 
 ficient quantity, according to the fmell, and as, 
 by the working you may find it neceflary. This 
 done, you cover it again, and an hour after- 
 wards, if your Vat be in a proper ftate, you 
 
 immerfe 
 
DYING WOOL. 29 
 
 Immerfe your fluffs. This is, to open ahe Vat, 
 as the Dyers call it. 
 
 'DiRECTiovis for ibe proper management of the Vat. 
 
 "VTOUR Vat is ready for working, that is to fay, 
 in a proper ftate for Dying Blue, when the 
 fediment, or grounds, at the bottom, is of a fine 
 brown green, when it changes, upon being taken 
 out of the Vat, when the froth, which rifes in 
 great bubbles on the furface, is of a fine Perfian 
 Blue, and when the pattern, which had been 
 fteeped an hour, is of a fine dark grafs green 
 colour. 
 
 When in a proper flate for working, the liquor 
 will be clear and reddiiTi, and the drops which 
 ftick to the rake, brown. 
 
 When the fediment, or grounds, as I have 
 already faid, change colour, when taken out of 
 the brevety or liquor, and becomes brown, when 
 cxpofed to the open air. 
 
 When the liquor is neither harlh, nor too greafy 
 to the feel; when it neither fmells of lime, nor of 
 lixivium. Thefe are, as near as poffiblc, the 
 marks, which denote that your Vat is in a proper 
 ftate for working. 
 
 Indications, when a Vat has fuffered by too mmb 
 or too little limey the two extreams which ought 
 carefully to he avoided. 
 
 VX^HEN a Vat is too plentifully fupplyed, that 
 
 is, when it has had more lime, than the 
 
 Paftei requires, you will eafily difcernit, by putting 
 
 in 
 
30 THEARTOF 
 
 in a patern, which inflead of becoming a fine grafs 
 
 green, is only a dirty Greyifh Blue; when the 
 
 fediment does not change colour, when there is 
 
 fcarce any efflorefcence on the Vat, and when the 
 
 liquor fmells only of lime, or of the lixivium of 
 
 lime. 
 
 In order to remedy this evil, it is necefTary to 
 unfurnifh the Vat, for which purpofe, the Dyers 
 have feveral methods. Some ufe tartar, others 
 bran, adding a bulhel of either, more or lefs, ac- 
 cording as the Vat may require. Others throw 
 in a bucket of urine. In fome places they ufe a 
 large iron ftove, long enough to reach from the 
 grounds at the bottom, to the top of the Vat. 
 This machine has a grate, within a foot of its 
 bottom, and an iron funnel, commencing with 
 the bottom of the grate, and communicating with 
 the external air. This furnace is plunged into 
 the Vat as far as the grounds, without forcing it 
 down, and fhould be retained by iron bars, to 
 prevent its rifing. The heat, communicated by 
 this llove, caufes the lime at the bottom of the 
 Vat, to rife to the furfacej by this means, you 
 can eafily take out as much of it as you think 
 proper, with a fieve. But when you have taken 
 it our, you fhould be careful to re fupply the Vat 
 with a fufficient quantity. 
 
 Some Dyers corredl a Paftel Vat with tartar, 
 and Hale urine, boiled together} but the bcft 
 method is to put into it a fufficient quantity of 
 bran and madder, and iftheexcefs of lime be not 
 great, you may let it ftand four, five, or fix hours, 
 or more, only adding to it, two hats full of bran, 
 and three or four pounds of madder, which fhould 
 
 be 
 
DYING WOOL. 3t 
 
 be fprinkled lightly on the top; it fhould then be 
 covered. At the expiration of four or five hours, 
 you ftir it with the rake and then put in a pattern, 
 in order to try the efFefb. 
 
 If it be checked, and that the Blue does not 
 rife 'till it be cold, you fhould leave it to recover, 
 without difturbing the liquor, and fometimes let 
 it (land for whole days without mixing. As foon 
 as it gives you a tolerable pattern, it fhould be 
 re-heated. In general the lime, which feemed 
 to want flrength fufBcient to promote fermenta- 
 tion, revives, and prevents the Vat, for fome time, 
 from yielding any colour. If you would bring 
 it forward, you fhould fprinkle fome bran and 
 madder on the top, befides an addition of two 
 full bafkets of frefh Paftel, which afiifts the liquor, 
 when re-heated, in difTolving the lime. 
 
 You fhould now try the Vat, by putting in a 
 pattern, from hour to hour, that you may be 
 enabled to judge, by the colour of the green, how 
 far the lime has operated. By thefe experiments 
 you will be direfted to condud it with accuracy, 
 for when the Vat has fufFered, by too much, 
 or too little lime, it is extremely difhcuk to 
 manage. If, during the time you are endeavour- 
 ing to retrieve it, the liquor fhould cool too fail, 
 you fhould preferve the heat, by emptying out 
 fome of the liquor, and replacing it with hot 
 water j for when the hrccet or liquor grows cold, 
 tke Paflel confumes none, or but very little of the 
 lime. An over degree of heat, will aifo retard the 
 a6tion of the lime. In this cafe, therefore, it were 
 better to wait a little rather than be in too great a 
 hurry to reflore theVars, when they have futfered. 
 
 It 
 
32 THEARTOF 
 
 It is evident that the Vat has fufFered, by no€ 
 being fufficiently fupplyed with lime, when there 
 is no efflorefcence on the liquor, vi£. no large air 
 bubbles, of a fine blue colour, only a fettled froth 
 of fmall tarniihed bubbles, and when, by dafhing 
 it on the furface with the Rake, it makes a hifling 
 noife, produced by the burfting of an infinite 
 number of thefe fmall air bubbles, as foon as they 
 are formed. The liquor has alfo an ofFenfive 
 fmell, like rotten eggs. It is harfh and dry to the 
 feel, and the fediment does not change colour, 
 when taken out of the liquor. This accident is 
 chiefly to be apprehended when the Overture is 
 made, and you begin to work j for if you do not 
 carefully attend to the ftate of the Vat, by the 
 fmell, when you ftir it, after fixing in the crofs or 
 ret, and imprudently put in the ftufl^s, when the 
 Paftel has fpent the lime, it is to be feared that 
 the Vat will be fpoiled, becaufe if you put in 
 the ftufl^s, when the fmall quantity of lime 
 remaining is in a ftate to afV, it will ftick to 
 them; the liquor becomes impoverifhed, and 
 the Vat only blots the ftufFs; you ihould there- 
 fore take them out immediately, and replenifh as 
 quick as poffible, in order to fave the remainder 
 of the Dye, by adding three or four meafures of* 
 lime, more or lefs, in proportion as the Vat has 
 fufl^ered, and this without ftirring at the bottom. 
 When you ftir the Vat you ftiould attend to the 
 noife, for if the hifling ceafes, and the bad fmell 
 changes, it is to be hoped that the liquor only has 
 fu fleered, and that the pafte is not yet impoveriflied. 
 Wlsen you have ftopped the noife or hifling, at 
 leaft in part, and that the br&vet or liquor fmellsof 
 
 lime 
 
DYING WOOL. J3 
 
 lime, and is foft to the feel, you cover the Vat, 
 and let it ftand. If at the expiration of an hour 
 and half, the efflorefcence commences, you put in 
 a pattern which, in an hour afterwards, you take 
 out, and regulate your procefs according to the 
 degree of green which your pattern has imbibed. 
 But, in general, when Vats are thus checked, they 
 do not fo foon recover. 
 
 The Vat being in a proper ftate, you fufpend 
 the crofs, and begin with thirty ells of cloth, or 
 of fcoured wool, of equal weight, which you 
 defign to prepare for black by firft dying it a 
 blue grey. Having pafled, and repaflcd this 
 quantity, keeping it in the liquor during a full 
 half hour, you wind it round the Reel, which 
 refts on the pods fixed over the Vat. The cloth 
 is then hung by the liftings, in order, by expofing 
 it to the air, to change the colour from green to 
 blue. If it be not fufficiently deep for a blue 
 grey after the firft turn, you give it another, 
 putting in the end that came firft out of the Vat, 
 foremoft ? You give this batch two or three turns 
 according to the ftrength of your Paftel, and ac- 
 cording to the depth of the colour required. If 
 your Paftel be good, as the trueLauragais gene- 
 rally is, you may put into this; Overture, or firft- 
 working, a fecond batch, after the firft is taken 
 out. 
 
 Having made this Overture, which is likewife 
 called the firft ftirring, you ftir the Vat afrefli, 
 adding lime, but not fo much as to deftroy the 
 abovementioned feel and fmell, obferving thatin 
 proportion as the colour becomes weaker, the 
 fvirtue of the Paftel is alfo diminiftied. 
 
 D " H 
 
34 THEARTOF 
 
 If your Vat be in a proper ftate, you fhould, ori 
 the firft day of working, ftir it three or four times. 
 You muft be careful not to overwork it, particu- 
 larly on the fecond day. 
 
 Concerning the colours; to obtain from this 
 frefh Vat all polTible advantage, you firft dye 
 your ftuffs defigned for black, afterwards the 
 Blues de roy^ and then fuch as are intended for a 
 a brown green. The Violet and Turkey Blues 
 are generally performed in the laft ftirring, on the 
 fecond day of the Overture, 
 
 If the quantity be too much diminilhed, on the 
 third day the Vat fhould be filled, within four 
 inches of the edgCj with hot Waten 
 
 Towards the latter end of the week you dye the 
 light blues j and on Saturday night, in order to pre- 
 ferve it 'till Monday, you garnifi with a little 
 more lime than on the day preceding. On 
 Monday morning you reheat, letting the liquor 
 run from the Vat into the copper cauldfon, by 
 means of a fpout or channel, placed from one to 
 the other. The clear liquor runs off, 'till it comes 
 to the fediment or pafte, and when boiling is re- 
 turned into the Vat, ftirring the pafte as the liquor 
 falls on it. You may, at the fame time add a full 
 cauldron of prepared indigo, as ftiall be hereafter 
 mentioned* 
 
 When the Vat is within four inches full, 
 and well ftirred, you cover it, and at the expiration 
 of two hours, put in a pattern, which ftiould re- 
 main for an hour only. You then add lime ac- 
 cording to the green Ihade of the pattern, and at 
 the expiration of an hour or two, if your Vat 
 has not fufFered, you may venture to put in a 
 
 batch 
 
DYING WOOL. 35 
 
 batch of fluff. This Huff having been wafhed in 
 two waters for the fpace of a full half hour, it is 
 wrung; it fhould then have another dip, as diredted, 
 in a frerti Vat. This re-heated Vat fhould be 
 conduced in the fame Manner as at firft, that is 
 to fay, ftirred three times the firflday, examining 
 each time, lefl it fhould require more lime, in 
 which cafe you add the quantity requifite, ac- 
 cording to your Judgement. 
 
 The blue dye of the Paftel only, is in the opi- 
 nion of thofe prejudiced in favour of old cufloms 
 much fuperior to that obtained from the Paftel 
 and Indigo together: but then it is more expen- 
 five, becaufe the Paflel yields much lefs colour 
 than this foreign drugj repeated experiments fuf- 
 ficientlydemonflrating that four pounds of the fine 
 indigo of Guatimaloy yields as much as a ball of 
 th^Albigois Paflel; and five pounds, as much as a 
 ball of that of the Lauragais which generally 
 weighs 2IO pounds. Hence the ufe of indigo 
 mixed with Paflel is very frugal, as a fingle Vat 
 with the addition of indigo, will dye as much 
 fluff as two Vats, were the indigo omitted. 
 
 They commonly put diffolved indigo to frefh 
 Vats after the Paflel appears blue, and a quarter, 
 or half a quarter of an hour afterwards, you 
 give it the -pied^ viz. an addition of lime; but 
 as the diffolved indigo is already garnijhed by 
 the lixivium in which it was diffolved, it requires 
 lefs lime than when the Paflel is alone. 
 
 When you reheat, the indigo is put in on the 
 Saturday night, that it may incorporate with 
 the liquor, and at the fame time ferve to garnijh 
 it, by means of its lime. 
 
 D 1 ^he 
 
THE ART OF 
 
 'J'he preparaiions of Indigo for the Paflel Vat. 
 
 'T^HE Indigo Gttatimalo, or of Guatimala is the 
 bell: it is brought from America in the 
 form of fmall flint flones, of a deep blue ct>lour. 
 Its goodnefs is determined by its effeft, and alfo 
 by breaking. If good, it will be of a dark violet 
 colour at the infide, and by rubbing it on th« 
 nailj it will appear copperous. That which is 
 the leaft ponderous is the bed. 
 
 In order to diiTolvc the Indigo, you mufl have 
 in your Dye-houfe, a feparate cauldron and fur- 
 nace. Eighty or an hundred pounds of Indigo 
 require a cauldron containing thirty, or thirty five 
 buckets of hard water. 
 
 This fhould be made into a lixivium ; by put- 
 ting five and twenty buckets of clear water into 
 tlie copper, with the addition of a hatful of bran, 
 twelve or thirteen pounds of madder, and forty 
 pounds of good pot-aHi : that is, half a pound of 
 alkaline falc, and two ounces and half of madder 
 to each pound of Indigo, thefe quantities being 
 necellary for the folution of eighty pounds of this 
 drug. It fliould boil faft for three quarters of 
 an hour, or thereabouts: the fire fhould then be 
 taken from under the furnace, and the lixivium 
 Ihould (land during half an hour, in order that 
 the lees, or dregSj may fall to the bottom. The 
 clear I'quor is then poured into a clean cafk, 
 placed clofe to the copper. Take out the grounds 
 at the bottom of the copper, wafh it clean; 
 return the clear lixivium into the copper j light a 
 
 fmall fire under it, and at the fame time put into 
 
 the 
 
D Y I N G W O O L. 37 
 
 the copper eighty pounds of Indigo^ reduced to a 
 grofs powder. The liquor fhould bemadev^ryhot; 
 but not fuffered to boil, and to facilitate the folu- 
 tion, you keep continually ftirring it vv'ith a fmall 
 Rake, to prevent it from gathering into lumps, 
 or from burning to the bottom of the copper. 
 You fhould keep the liquor moderately hot, and 
 the degree of heat as equal as poITible, by throw- 
 ing into it, from time to time, fome lixivium of 
 lime, which fliould be at hand, ready prepared, 
 it order to cool it. As foon as you perceive that 
 there is no longer any lumps in the bottom of the 
 copper, and that the Indigo is well diflblved and 
 diluted, you draw the fire from the furnace, 
 leaving only a few hot cinders, to keep it v/arm ; 
 you cover the copper, and then put in a pattern 
 of fluff which fhould be green when taken out, 
 and turn blue immediately, upon being expofed 
 to the air. If this fhould not be the cafe, you 
 muft add fome frelb clear lixivium, prepared in 
 thefamemanner as thepreceding. Of thisfolution 
 of Indigo, one, two, or more buckets are added to 
 the Paftel Vat, when it has fufHciently fermented 
 and begins to yield its colour. This part of the 
 Art of Dying requires an able workman. 
 
 Having convinced myfelf of the methods necefr 
 fary for the fuccefs of a large Paftel Vat, 1 deter- 
 mined alfo to try if it was not poffible to fet one 
 on a much fmaller plan, by fome Dyers fuppofed. 
 to be impracfticable. I took a little barrel, con- 
 taining about five and twenty gallons; this I put 
 into a copper full of v/ater, which I carefully kept 
 properly heated. I then put into a fmall copper^ 
 twenty gallons of water, with an ounce and a 
 
 D 3 half 
 
3? THEARTOF 
 
 half of madder, and a very fmall handful of Dyers 
 Weed : an herb ufed for dying yellow, but 
 which upon the whole feems to be of no ufe 
 in this operation; I was, however, advifed to ufe 
 it as being neceflar)\ I let them boil together, 
 for three full hours, and about nine o'clock in 
 the evening, poured all this liquor into the barrel, 
 which ftood in the copper, having firft put in two 
 fmall handfuls of bran: I added at the fame time, 
 four pounds of Paflel, and having flirred it well 
 for a quarter of an hour, covered it, and took 
 care to have it flirred, in the fame manner, every 
 three hours, even during the night. I put no 
 four water into this little Vat, as is the cuftom, 
 at prefentj but the bran, which I had jufl: put in 
 ferved as a fubftitute, becaufe it foured with the 
 liquor. 
 
 The next morning about nine o'clock, the Vat 
 began to make a little noife or hiding. It alfo 
 formed a kind of froth like fuds. Having mixed 
 it well, I added an ounce and half of flacked lime, 
 fifted, which increafed the froth. The fmell be- 
 came flrongcr, and therefore I was of opinion tha^ 
 a little more Paftel might be added. 
 
 At half after ten, the Vat fmelt ftronger of the 
 lime, produced froth, and made a little noife. 
 I immediately put in a pattern, which, at the ex- 
 piration of an hour, I took out green, and which 
 upon being expofed to the air became blue. I 
 ilirred it again, and, an hour afterwards, put in 
 another pattern, which, after remaining an hour 
 alfo, cam^e out green like the firfl, but upon being 
 expofed to the air, was of a deeper blue. By 
 
 this 
 
DYING WOOL. 39 
 
 this I concluded it was in a proper ftate for the 
 Indigo. 
 
 At half after twelve I added two ounces of 
 Indigo, not diflblved, only pounded, fifted, and 
 diluted in warm water, ^yith a lump o( cendres gra- 
 velees as big as a wall-nut (that is, the lees of wine, 
 calcined, which as I have already faid, contains a 
 quantity of alkaline fait.) Every two hours after- 
 wards I put in a pattern, alternately ftirring, that is 
 to fay, an hour after I ftirred the Vat, I put in the 
 pattern which remained another hour, after which 
 I again ftirred, and fo on 'till ten o'clock. Upon 
 comparing the patterns, the l^ft was always evi- 
 dently the darkcft: they alfo became more and 
 more bright, in proportion as the lime was con^ 
 fumed. 
 
 It ought now to have been replenifhed, becaufe 
 the laft pattern fliewed that the lime was ex- 
 Jiaufted. In that cafe it would have been nccef- 
 fary to have worked at it 'till two oclock in the 
 morning; and therefore, being an inconvenient 
 time, I chofe to dticv gannjhing-y giving it only 
 fufficient to fuftain it 'till the next day j that is 
 to fay, about half an ounce of lime, to ftir 
 it, and an hour afterwards to put in another 
 pattern^ which, at the expiration of an hour, was 
 in faft, more blue than the others, but which, on 
 account of the lime, was lefs lively than the pre- 
 ceding. In this manner the Vat may be retard- 
 ed, or brought into a proper ftate, as moft 
 convenient. 
 
 Two more patterns were put in during the 
 night, which were ftill darker. That which 
 was ta|cen out at eight o'clock in the morning, 
 
 P 4 being 
 
4.0 THEARTOF 
 
 being a little dull, llicwed that the lime, which 
 had been put in the preceding evening, was not 
 yet confumed. Sonne of the pade which I had 
 taken from the bottom with a Rake, in order to 
 examine the flate of the Vat, was of a yellowifii 
 brown; but, when expofed to the air, became of 
 an olive green. It appeared of the fame colour 
 under the furface, if moved with the hand; but 
 inftantly became green. It fmelt rather ftrong, 
 though not fo much of the lime. The liquor 
 was fomething of the colour of beer, and the 
 fkum or froth, produced by ftirring it with the 
 Rake, was blue. By thefe figns you are befl 
 enabled to judge of the Hate of yourVat. 
 
 I {till continued to put in patterns, and to ftir 
 alternately, 'till two o'clock in the afternoon. 
 The pattern then taken out was of a very fine 
 green, and imm.ediarely afterwards became of a 
 beautiful blue, which fhewed that it was time to 
 fill the Vat. For this purpofe, I put about eight 
 gallons of water into a little copper, with a quar- 
 ter of an ounce of madder, and a handful of bran: 
 when it had boiled half an hgiir, I put the liquor 
 into the little Vat for three hours. It was then 
 ftirred, and an hour afterwards a pattern put in, 
 which at the expiration of an hour was taken out, 
 very beautiful and lively. 
 
 This little Vat was ready for working at feven 
 o'clock, and might have been ready feventeen or 
 eighteen hours fooner, but was defignedly re- 
 tarded. The C'OjSj or net, fuch as 1 have already 
 defcribed, when fpeaking of the necelTary utenfils 
 for Dying, was let dowpj within three or four 
 
 fingers 
 
DYING WOOL. 4r 
 
 fingers of the pafte or grounds, and fufpended 
 by means of four pack-threads, faftened to the 
 edge of the calk. 
 
 An ell of ferge was then immerfed, without 
 any other preparation, than having been pre- 
 vioiifly wet, in order to make it imbibe the 
 colour equally. It was then moved with the 
 hand, and a little iron hook, for about a quarter 
 of an hour, at the expiration of which time, it was 
 taken out very green. It was then wrung or 
 prefTed, and immediately, upon being expofed to 
 the air, became blue. It was again put into the 
 Vat for a quarter of an hour more, in order to 
 give it a deeper colour, when it was taken out 
 much greener than the firft, and upon being 
 again wrung, became a more beautiful blue 
 than I could have expedlcd. 
 
 A pound of worded was then immerfed, having 
 been previoutly wet with hot water, and ex- 
 prefTed; but the Vat retained fo little of the 
 paftel, that the worded imbibed only a Iky blue 
 colour. It was again immerfed, the day after, 
 for the lad time; and to preferve the Vat, and 
 at the fame time, to redore the colour, I fprinkled 
 into it half an ounce of fifted lime. Before this, 
 it fmelt fomething like road meatj but imme- 
 diately, upon throwing in the lime, there arofe a 
 volatile alkaline, or urinous odour. The Vat 
 was then covered, and the next day the worded 
 was finiflied. It was dill poflible, by replenifliing 
 the Vat to dye a pound or two more; but not 
 to lofe time, I had it thrown out, thefe experi- 
 ments ipeing fufHcientlv ro demondrate the pofTibi- 
 
 lity 
 
42 THEARTOF 
 
 lity of fetting a Paftel Vat, in the little, as well 
 
 as in the great, 
 
 I fhall, however, add fome necefiary reflec« 
 tions, in order to convey a more perfefl idea of 
 this operation. 
 
 A Paftel Vat fhould never be re-heated, but 
 when fit for working; that is to fay, when it has 
 neither too much, nor too little lime, and requires 
 heat only, to be in a proper ftate. When 
 it has too much lime, it fmells ofFenfively. On 
 the contrary if it fmells fweetiih, and that the 
 froth, which rifes on the furface when ftirredwith 
 the Rake, is of a pale blue, the quantity of lime 
 is not fufficient. 
 
 When you would reheat, you fhould be care- 
 ful not to garntjh with lime over night (I mean if 
 it Ihould not require it very much) as you would 
 by fo doing, run a rifle of giving it the coup de 
 pied 3 or kick, as the Dyers term it; for the lime 
 which the Vat had retained, by re-heating, ac- 
 quires more adtion, and is too quickly con- 
 fumed. 
 
 You generally put frefli Indigo into the Vat, 
 as often as it is re-heated, and that, in propor- 
 tion to your quantity of work; but if you have 
 not much work, and require only light colours^, 
 this addition is unneceflary. 
 
 The ancient regulations allowed only fix pounds 
 of Indigo to every ball of Paftel, imagining that 
 the colour obtained from the Indigo was not 
 folid, and that to conftitute a permanent colour, 
 it was neceffary to add a great quantity of Paftel; 
 butfrom the late M.Dufay's experiments, andfrom 
 thofe which I have myfelf fince made, it is at 
 
 prefent 
 
DYING WOOL. 43 
 
 prefent fully proved, that the colour of the 
 Indigo, even without any addition, is equally 
 good, and as little afFedlcd by the air, the fun, 
 rain, or boiling, as the Paftel. This article there- 
 fore was reformed in the new regulations of 1737, 
 where the Dyers in Grain are permitted to ufe 
 as much Indigo as they plcafe. 
 
 When aVat has been heated, and well worked, 
 two or three times, the fame liquor is frequently 
 preferved, only taking out a part of the fediment, 
 and replacing it with fome frefh Paftel. It is 
 jmpofTible to afcertain the quantity, as that mull 
 depend on the work to be done, and this pro- 
 portion will be foon learnt by experience. 
 Some Dyers preferve the fame liquor in their 
 Vats for feveral years, replenifliing only with 
 I Paftel and Indigo, in proportion as it has been 
 worked; others empty their Vat intirely, change- 
 ing the liquor when it has been re-heated fix or 
 {tvtn times, and that it no longer yields any 
 colour. Practice only can afcertain which is 
 the beft method. It is howeycr retional to fup- 
 pofe, that by intirely renewing the Vat, from 
 time to time, the colours will be more lively, 
 and much finer. Thofe who pradtice the con- 
 trary method are not the beft Dyers. 
 
 Their Vats in Holland are of a different con- 
 ftrudion, and do not require fuch frequent 
 heating. They have been ufed for many years 
 in ♦Meflrs. Van Robbais* royal manufactory at 
 Abbeville. The upper three feet of thefe Vats 
 is made of copper. They are moftly furrounded 
 by a brick wall, about feven or eight inches from 
 the copper, Jn this jnteryal, the embers are 
 I depofited. 
 
U THE ART OF 
 
 depofited, which maintain the heat of the Vat, 
 for a confiderable time, fo that it remains for 
 feveral days in a proper ftate for working, with- 
 out the necefTity of re-heating. Thefe Vats arc 
 much more cxpenfive than the others; but they 
 are more convenient, efpecially for light colours j 
 becaufe they are always ready for working, even 
 ^fter they become very weak. This is never the 
 cafe with the others, which frequently give a 
 much deeper colour, than was intended, unlefs 
 you fufFcr them to grow confiderably colder, and 
 then the colour is neither fo good, nor fo lively. 
 In order to dye thefe light colours in the com- 
 mon Vats, it were better to prepare one on pur- 
 pofe, that fhould be ftrong in Paftel and weak in 
 Indigo, becaufe thefe would give their colour 
 more flowly, and the light colours be obtained 
 from them with much more facility. 
 
 With regard to the Dutch Vats, juft men- 
 tioned, the four conftrudled, by the diredion of 
 MefTrs. Van Robbais in their manufadory, are 
 fix feet deep, the upper three feet and half cop- 
 per, and the lower two feet and half lead. The 
 diameter of the bottom four feet and half j and of 
 the top, five feet four inches. 
 
 I now return to the neceffary obfervations on 
 re-heating the common Vats. If you heat a 
 Vat, when exhaufted, viz. when it is deficient in 
 lime, it will turn imperceptibly in fuch a man- 
 ner, as to be in danger of being fpoiled, becaufe 
 the lime, already too much diminifhed, will be 
 intirely confumed by the heat. The only remedy, 
 if difcovered in time, is to throw it back into the 
 
 Vat, 
 
DYING WOOL. 4^ 
 
 Vat, and to replenifli with lime. You fhould 
 then wait 'till it recovers before you re-heat. 
 
 When re-heating you fhould be careful to put 
 the grounds into the copper with the liquor. 
 You fhould alfo be very careful not to let it boil, 
 elfe thevolatilc parts, neceflary towards the opera- 
 tion, will evaporate. Some Dyers do not put 
 Indigo immediately after the liquor is emptied 
 out of the copper into the Vat; not 'till fome 
 hours afterwards, when they perceive the Vat 
 begin to retrieve. This precaution is taken left 
 the Vat fhould not recover, in which cafe, the 
 Indigo would be lo.ft: but then it does not give 
 its colour fo freely; for being obliged to work at 
 the Vat immediately, left it fhould cool, the 
 Indigo, not being fufficiently difTolved, orintirely 
 incorporated, does not produce its full efFefl. It 
 were therefore befl to put the Indigo into the Vat 
 im.mediately with the liquor, and to flir it well 
 afterwards. 
 
 When you re-heat a Vat that has not been 
 worked, it fhould not be Ikimmed, as in the com- 
 mon re- heatings, becaufe you would then take 
 out the Indigo ; whereas in a Vat that has been 
 worked, the fkim is formed of the earthy particles 
 of the Indigo andPaflel, joined to a portion of 
 the lime. 
 
 When you have put too much lime into the 
 Vat, you muft wait 'till it be confumed. It might 
 be accelerated in the re-heating, by the addition 
 of ingredients, which would, in fome degree, 
 deftroy the action of the limej fuch as tartar, 
 vinegar, honey, bran, a mineral acid, or, in fhort 
 any acid matter. But thefe correc5lives would, 
 
 at 
 
46 THE ART 0"F 
 
 at the fame time, confume the colour of the 
 Indigo and Paftel. It were therefore beft to let 
 the lime confume, without ufing any method to 
 promote it. 
 
 Vats are generally not garni/Joed with lime 'till 
 the fecond, or fometimes the third day, and there- 
 fore you fhould by no means immerfe the violets, 
 the purples, or any of the delicate coloured 
 worfted or ftuffs, on the day after you had re- 
 plenifhed, becaufe the lime, being yet tolerably 
 adtive, tarnifhes the firft colour: it fhould there- 
 fore be the fifth or fixth day before you put in 
 your crimfons for violets ; or your yellows for 
 green. By attending to this particular your colour 
 will be always bright. 
 
 When the Vat has been re-heated, you mufl 
 wait 'till it begins to work, before you garnijh» 
 If it be done too foon, it will become turbid, or 
 if a little of the pafte is put into the copper, it 
 is attended with the fame confequence. In this 
 cafe, your remedy is to let it fland 'till it fettles 
 before you begin to workj which will require 
 two, three, or four hours, or even a whole 
 day. 
 
 You fometimes make ufe of weak limej but 
 then, if you do not take care, your Vat gets a 
 kick; becaufe this lime remains in the liquor, 
 and does not incorporate fo well with the pafle. 
 When this accident happens, the liquor has a 
 ftrong fmelli and the pafle, on the contrary, a 
 fweetifh fmell, whereas they fhould both fmell 
 alike. Your remedy is to haflen the folution, 
 by flirting it often in order to mix the lime with 
 
 the 
 
DYING WOOL. / 47 
 
 the pafte, 'till the proper fmell of the Vat be re- 
 ftored, and 'till the froth or fkim becomes blue. 
 
 You may, if you pleafe, fet a Paftel Vat with- 
 out Indigo ; but then it would yield very little 
 colour, and dye but a very fmall quantity of 
 ItufFor wool; for one pound of Indigo^ as I have 
 already faid, yields as much colour as fifteen or 
 fixteen pounds of Paftel. I had one of thefe kind 
 prepared, in order to afcertain the power of the 
 Paftel alone, and I have found, notwithftanding 
 what prejudice may urge to the contrary, that 
 the Indigo is, in no refped, inferior in the beauty 
 and folidity of its colour. 
 
 As lime is conftantly ufed in fetting a Vat, 
 and fometimes four water, I think it is proper 
 in this place to mention their preparation. 
 
 In order to flack lime, fit for dying, you throw 
 into water feveral pieces, one after another, 
 taking out each piece when it begins to ferment, 
 and putting in another. It is then thrown into 
 a copper, or any other empty vefTel, where it 
 will fall to powder, and confiderably increafe in' 
 bulk. It is afterwards fifted through a canvas 
 bag, and preferved in a very dry cafk or tub. 
 
 Acid waters arc necelTary, not only in par- 
 ticular circumftances, relative to the fetting of a 
 Paftel Vat, but alfo in fome preparations of 
 woolens, and fluffs for dying. They are made in 
 the following manner. 
 
 Fill a copper, of any fize, with river water, put 
 fire under it, and, when it boils, throw it into 
 a calk in which you had before put a fufHcient 
 quantity of bran. It Ihould be well ftirred, 
 three or four times a day. The proportion of 
 
 bran. 
 
48 THE ART OF 
 
 bran or water, is not very important. For my 
 part, I found, that putting three bufhels of bran 
 into a veflel, containing feventy gallons of water, 
 had the defired efFed. This water, at the ex- 
 piration of four or five days becomes four, and 
 confequently proper to be applyed, in all cafes, 
 where it does not injure the preparation of the 
 worfted. 
 
 Woolen fleece dyed in liquor containing too . 
 great a quantity of acid water, would in all pro- 
 bability be difficult to fpin, as the fibres of the 
 wool, being glued by the bran, would not pro- 
 duce an even thread. It is alfo neceflary to ob- 
 ferve, that it is a bad cuftom, to leave the acid 
 water to remain in the copper cauldron, as I 
 have feen praftifed by fome eminent Dyers: 
 as it will corrode the copper, and if fuffered 
 to remain long enough to difTolve any part of this 
 metal, it will occafion a defefl, both in the 
 colour and ftuff; in the colour, becaufe the 
 diflblved copper gives a greenifh tinge; in the 
 quality of the ftuff, becaufe it afts as a corrofive 
 on all animal fubftances. 
 
 To the beft of my knowledge, I have omitted 
 nothing eflential concerning the Paftel Vat. If 
 any difficulties Ihould occur in the praftice, or 
 any accident happen which 1 have not mentioned, 
 they are not very confiderable, and may be'eafily 
 remedied by thofe who are acquainted with this 
 operation. Readers, having no idea of this pro- 
 cefs, will fuppofe me tedious, they will alfo find 
 many repetitions; but thofe who read this chap- 
 ter for the fake of inftruftion, will perhaps 
 
 blame 
 
DYING WOOL. 49 
 
 blame me for being too concife. I thought it 
 more neceflary, on account of the difficulty of 
 the operation, to put the obfervations I had 
 made, from my own experience, concerning the 
 government of the fmall Vat, in the form of a 
 memoire, defcribing it, as I have, hour by hour, 
 rather than dwell on the defcription of preparing 
 a Vat in the great as above defcribed becaufe 
 I was not always on the fpot. Thofcj who 
 have read this chapter with attention, will not 
 be furprized that the mafter-piece expefted from 
 apprentices, who would be admitted as Mafter 
 Dyers, either in Grain or not in Grain, is the 
 preparation, and, more efpecially, the workino- of 
 thePaftelVat. "" 
 
 CHAP. vr. 
 
 Of the Woad Vat, 
 
 'TpHERE is fcarce any difference to be ob- 
 -*- ferved with regard to the Woad and 
 Paftel Vat. The Woad is a plant cultivated in 
 Normandy, and prepared almofl in the fame 
 manner as the Paftel in Languedoc. As to the 
 cultivation of thefe, I muft refer the reader to 
 theG^aeral Inftrudions for Dying, of the i8th 
 of Mfrch, 1 67 1; from the article 259 to the 
 article 288, inclufive. The Woad Vat is pre- 
 pared in the fame manner as the Paftel Vat; 
 it differs only, in being weaker, and yield- 
 ing lefs colour. The following is a defcrip- 
 tion of the Woad Vat, according to an experi- 
 E ment. 
 
50 THE ART OF 
 
 ment which I made in miniature, fimilar t« 
 that concerning the Paftel in the preceding 
 chapter. My objed was to verify a procefs, 
 an account of which was fent me from Nor- 
 mandy. 
 
 I placed in a cauldron a fmall calk, containing 
 about twelve gallons, two thirds full of river 
 water, an ounce of madder, and a fmall quantity 
 of weld. At the fame time I put into the 
 calk, a good handful of bran, and five pounds of 
 Woad. At five o'clock in the evening, the Vat 
 was well ftirred and covered. It was again 
 ftirred at feven, at nine> at twelve, at two, and 
 at four. The Woad was then working, a» 
 I have already obferved with regard to the 
 Paftel. Some air bubbles began to rife pretty 
 large, but in a fmall quantity, and of a very faint 
 colour. It was then garnilhed with two ounces 
 of lime, and ftirred. At five o'clock I put in 
 a pattern which I took out at fix, and again 
 ftirred. This pattern had received fome colour. 
 At feven o'clock I put in another, and at eight, 
 ftirred again. This pattern was tolerably bright; 
 I then added an ounce of Indigo; at nine o'clock 
 another pattern; at ten, ftirred again, and put 
 in an ounce of lime, becaufe it began to fmeJl 
 fweetlfti. At eleven another pattern, and at 
 twelve ftirred again. This procefs was con- 
 tinued 'till five o'clock. I then added three 
 ounces of Indigo. At fix I tryed another pattern, 
 and at feven ftirred again. It w^ould have been 
 now time to fill it, being in a proper ftate for 
 working, as the laft pattern which had been 
 taken out very green, became a bright blue. 
 
 But 
 
DYING WOOL. 51 
 
 But as I was very much fatigued, having fat up 
 the whole night, I chofe to defer it 'till the next 
 day, in order to fee its effedt by day light, and 
 for this reafon I added an ounce of lime, fuf- 
 ficient to fuftain it till 'nine o'clock in the morn- 
 ing. Patterns were put in from time to time, 
 and the laft being very beautiful, I filled the 
 Vat with a liquor compofed of water, and a 
 fmall handful of bran only. It was then ftirred, 
 and patterns tryed every hour. Being in a pro- 
 per (late at five o'clock, it was immediately 
 worked. It was then garnifhed with lime, and 
 mixed, in order to preferve it, 'till fuch time as 
 it might be convenient to re-heat. 
 
 Two months afterwards I prepared another 
 Woad Vat, without Indigo, that I might be 
 enabled to judge of the folidity of the dye, 
 and was convinced, by experim.ent, that it was 
 of equal goodnefs with the Paftel. Hence, the 
 Paftel is fuperior to the Woad, only becaufe the 
 latter yields lefs colour than the other. 
 
 The little variations to be obferved in the 
 method of fetting thefe difierentVats, fufficiently 
 demonftrates that there are many circumftances, 
 in the feveral procefles, not abfolutely neceffary. 
 In my opinion, the only matter of importance, 
 and which demands attention, is to condu<fl 
 the fermentation with caution, and to avoid 
 fupplying with lime, 'cill, from the indications 
 I have defcribcd, it appears neceffary. With 
 regard to the Indigo, whether it be added at 
 twice, or all at once, whether a little fooner or 
 a little later, is, I think, of very little importance. 
 The fame may be faid, of the weld, which 
 E 2 I ufed 
 
52 THE ART OF 
 
 I ufed twice, and twice omitted, and likewifc 
 of the pearl-alh, a little of which I put into the 
 fmall Paftcl Vat, and omitted in that of the 
 Woad. In fliort, it appears to me very demon- 
 ftrable, that the diftribution of the lime, either 
 in the fetting or re-heating the Vats, requires 
 moft attention. It mull alfo be obferved, that 
 in fetting either a Paftel or Woad Vat, it can- 
 not be too frequently examined; becaufe though 
 fome are too flow, which is attributed to the 
 weaknefs of the Paftel or Woad, others become 
 too foon ready for working. I have feen feventy 
 pounds of Paftel loft by this neglefb. It was 
 ready for working at eight o'clock, but for 
 want of the workman's conftant infpecftion, he 
 did not difcover it 'till two hours afterwards. 
 The pafte was then intirely rifen to the furfacc 
 of the liquor, which fmelt very four. It was 
 now impoflible to recover it ; he was therefore 
 obliged to throw it out immediately, or it would 
 very foon become infupportably putrid and 
 foetid. 
 
 This difference in the Vat may be alfo pro- 
 duced by the temperature of the air, as it cools 
 much fooner in winter than in fummer. It 
 is therefore neceflary to watch very attentively, 
 though it is feldom fit for working in lefs than 
 fourteen or fifteen hours. I ihall endeavour 
 to explain hereafter the method of develop- 
 ing the colouring particles of this ingredient; 
 but I muft firft fpeak of the Vats prepared with 
 Indigo only. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
D Y I N G W O O L. 5-3 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 Of the Indigo Vat, 
 
 INDIGO is the dreg, or rather the InfpifTated 
 ice of a plant called Nil or Anil. In order 
 to produce this fubftance you muft have three 
 tubs, one over another, refennbling a cafcade. 
 The firfl:, called the Joaking or rotting tub, you 
 fill with water and put into it the plant, with 
 the leaves, bark, and flowers. At the expiration 
 of fon:ie time, the water begins to heat and 
 bubble, grows thick, and becomes of a violet 
 colour. It is the opinion of fome that the plant 
 depofits all its falts, and of others, all its fub- 
 ftance. You then turn the cock of \ht Joaking 
 tub, and let the water, impregnated with the 
 whole colouring fubftance of the4Tlant, run into 
 the fecond tub, called the heater, becaufe in 
 this the water is beaten with a kind of batcering 
 mill, in order to condenfe the fubftance of the 
 Indigo, which is thereby precipitated fo intireiy, 
 that the v/ater lofes all colour, and becomes 
 clear as common water. The cock is then turned 
 that the water may run off 'till it comes to the 
 furfiice of the blue dregs : the lowcft cock is then 
 turned, that the whole fubftance may run into 
 the third tub, called the repofitary, becaufe, in 
 this tub, the Indigo remains to dry. It is then 
 t^ken out and molded into cakes, or tablets, &c. 
 See P.Labat. Hift. of the Antilles. 
 
 On the coaft of Coromandel, at Pondi- 
 
 cherry, &c. there arc two forts of Indigo, one 
 
 E 3 much 
 
54. T H 5^ A R T O F . 
 
 much finer than the other; the fine fort is ufcd, 
 only for giving glofs to the colour, and the 
 inferior fort for Dying. There are befides 
 fcveral other forts which augment in price, 
 according to their quality. You may meet with 
 fome, from fifteen pagodas the bar, weighing 
 forty eight pounds, to 200 pagodas. The fined is 
 prepared on the coaft of Agra. It is alfo made 
 pretty good at Mafulipatam, at Ayanaon, where 
 the India Company has a fettlement. At Chan- 
 dernagor they call it A7/, when prepared and 
 cut into pieces. The beft of all is the Java or 
 the Javan Indigo i but it is alfo the deareft, con* 
 fequently not much ufed by the Dyers. The 
 beil Indigo Ihould be light, fo as to float on the 
 waierj the more it finks, the greater the pro- 
 bability of its being mixed with earth, alhes, or 
 pounded flate. It fhould be of a dark blue 
 colour, almoft violet, bright and fparkling, par- 
 ticularly when broken. You may try it by dif- 
 folving a bit of it in a glafs of water. If pure 
 and well prepared, it will difll^lve intirely; but, 
 if adulterated, the matter will fink to the bottom 
 of the vefTel. The fecond method of afccr- 
 taining its goodnefs is by firej for the Indigq 
 will intirely confume, but tlie extraneous par- 
 ticles will remain, even after it is burnt. The 
 pounded Indigo is much more liable to adul- 
 teration than the tablets, becaufe it being dif- 
 ficult for the fund and pounded flate to adhere, 
 it runs into different fl:rata; but this, by break- 
 ing a bit of the Indigo, is eafily difccrnable. 
 
 There are feveral methods of preparing an' 
 IndigoVat, which are all, in fpme refpeds, diflTerent 
 
 I from 
 
D Y I N G W O O L. 55 
 
 from each other. I have tryed as many ways as came 
 within my knowledge, and fuccceded in almofh 
 all of them. I will defcribe them as precifely 
 as I can, beginning with that moil generally in 
 life, and which is almoft the only one known at 
 Paris. 
 
 I gave at the commencement of this work 
 a defcription of the copper veflel neceflary for 
 this preparation. To affill the recolledtion how- 
 ever, Iwilljuft mention, that this Vat is about 
 five feet highj that it is two feet in diameter, 
 and that it grows narrower towards the bottom; 
 that it is furrounded by a wall, leaving a 
 vacancy for the em^bers. In a Vat of this fize 
 you may put from two to five or fix pounds of 
 Indigo. In order to fet a Vat, containing twenty 
 gallons, you boil in a copper about fifteen 
 gallons of river water, for half an hour, with two 
 pounds of pot-alh, two ounces of madder, and 
 a handful of bran. The Indigo is prepared, 
 mean while, in the following manner. 
 
 Take two pounds of Indigo, and put it into a 
 pail of cold water, in order to feparace the folid 
 from the volatile particles, which will immediately 
 rife to the furface. Ihe wr:er is then poured 
 off", and the remaining Indigo pounded in an 
 iron mortar; you then put a little hot water into 
 the mortar, fliaking it, from fide to fide, and 
 pouring into another veflel, that which fwims, 
 and which is confequently the befl: bruifed. In 
 this manner you continue to pound what re- 
 mains in the mortar, ftill adding frefn water, 
 in order to make the fineft part rife to the fur- 
 face, and fo on, 'till all the Indigo is reduced 
 E 4 to 
 
56 THE ART OF 
 
 to a powder, fo fine as to rife in the water, 
 which is all the preparation required. The 
 liquor which had boiled in the copper, with the 
 grounds of the madder and pot-alh, which pro- 
 bably fell to the bottom, is thrown into the 
 high, narrow Vat; at the fame time adding the 
 pounded Indigo. The whole is then well ftirred 
 •with a rake, the Vat covered, and the embers 
 put round it. If this operation was begun in 
 the afternoon, you muft renew the hot embers 
 in the evening, which fhould alfo be repeated, 
 both morning and evening the next day : the Vat 
 Ihould be lightly ftirred twice the fecond day. 
 In order to maintain the heat of the Vat, you 
 renew the embers on the third day, flirring the 
 Vat twice. You then perceive, that a Ihining 
 brafly fcum, divided and interrupted in many 
 places, begins to rife on the furface. By con- 
 tinuing the heat, on the fourth day the fcum 
 becomes more perfeft and lefs broken. The 
 froth that rifes, upon ftirring, is now blue, and 
 the Vat a deep green. 
 
 V/hen it becomes green in this manner, it i^ 
 an indication that the Vat fhould be filled. For 
 this purpofe you muft prepare a frefh liquor 
 by putting five gallons of water into a copper, 
 a pound of pot-afh, and half an ounce of m.ad- 
 der. When this has boiled a quarter of an hour 
 you fill the Vat. You then ftir it, and if it pro- 
 duces much froth, it will be in a proper ftate for 
 \vorking the next day. This is fufficiently 
 known by the quantity of froth, and by the 
 brafiy, fcaly cruft that fwims on the top of the 
 liouorj alfo, and when by blowing, pr ftirring it 
 
 with 
 
DYING WOOL. 57 
 
 with the hand, the liquor beneath is green, though 
 the furface appears of a brown blue. 
 
 This Vat, of which I have juft defcribed the 
 procefs, and the firft I had fet, was much longer 
 in coming to a colour than the others, becaufe 
 the heat was too ftrong the fecond day ; but for 
 this accident, it would have been ready for 
 working two days fooner. It was attended with 
 no other bad confequence, and therefore as foon 
 as it was in a proper flate for working, I 
 dipped, at feveral times, thirty or forty pounds 
 of ferge. As the liquor was by this means di- 
 minifhed and weakened, it was necefTary in the 
 afternoon to replcnifh with a frefh mixture, 
 compofed of a pound of pot-afh, half an ounce 
 of madder, and a handful of bran. Having 
 boiled this a quarter of an hour, it was put into 
 the Vat which was then ftirred, covered, and 
 a few embers put round it. In this manner it 
 may be kept for many daysj but when you mean 
 to work it, it Ihould be ftirred the preceding 
 evening, and fupplyed with hot embers. 
 
 When you would re-heat this kind of Vat, 
 and repleniih it with Indigo, you put into a 
 copper two thirds of the liquor now no longer 
 ^rcen, but of a brown blue, and almoft black. 
 When it is ready to boil, the fkim on the top 
 fliould be taken off with a fieve, after which it 
 fhould be fuffered to boil, with the addition of 
 two handfuls of bran, a quarter of a pound of 
 madder, and two pounds of pot-a(h. The 
 embers are then taken from under the copper, 
 and a little cold water thrown in, to flop the 
 boiling. It is then emptied into the Vat, with the 
 
 addition 
 
5? THEARTOF 
 
 addition of a pound of Indigo, pulverized and 
 diflblved in fome of the liquor, as I have faFd 
 above. The Vat being then ftirred, covered, 
 and a few hot embers put round it, will be fit for 
 •working the next day. 
 
 When an Indigo Vat has been re-heated feveral 
 times, it Ihould be emptied out intirely, and fee 
 anew, becaufe the colour becomes dull: for 
 though heated, and in a proper ftate for working, 
 the green colour is not fo beautiful as at the 
 beginning. 
 
 I have had feveral other Vats fet in the fame 
 manner, with a greater or lefs quantity of Indigo j 
 as from one to fix pounds, proportionably in- 
 creafing, or diminiihing the other ingredients, 
 always however putting a pound of pot-afh to 
 a pound of Indigo. From other experiments 
 which 1 have fince made, I am convinced that 
 this proportion was not abfolutely neceffary. 
 I am alfo perfuaded that there are many other 
 methods for the preparation of the Indigo Vat, 
 equally effeftual. I fhall neverthelefs make 
 fome obfervations concerning this Vat. 
 
 Of all thofe which I have had prepared in this 
 manner, I failed but in onej which was occa- 
 fioned by neglecting to put hot embers round 
 it on the fecond day. I added fome pulverized 
 arfenic, but without any efFe6li it would never 
 come to a colour. Red-hot bricks were alfo 
 throwninto it, at feveral times; the liquor, at 
 times, became greenifh; butnever fufRciently. At 
 length, after having, to no purpofe, tryed feveral 
 other means, without being able to difcover 
 •why it did not fucceed, and having re-heated it 
 
 ieveral 
 
D Y I N G W O O L. ' 59 
 
 feveral times, 1 had it thrown out at the fort- 
 night's end. 
 
 The feveral other accidents which I met with 
 in the condud of the Indigo Vat, only retarded 
 the fuccefsj fo that this o{:eration may be con- 
 fidered as very eafy in eomparifon of the Paftel 
 or Woad Vat. I have indeed made feveral 
 experiments on each of them, with an intent to 
 fhortcn the time of the preparation -, but, for the 
 mod part, not fuccecding, or, at leaft, not better 
 than by common pradice, it is needlefs to 
 defcribe them. 
 
 The liquor of the Indigo Vat is not, in every 
 refped, like that of the Paftel. Its furface is a 
 brown blue, covered with coppery fcales, and 
 the liquor itkli^ of a fine green. The fluff or 
 woolen which it dyes is green when taken out, 
 and becomes blue immediately afterwards. The 
 fame obfervation has been made with regard to 
 the Paflel Vat, but it is very fingular, that the 
 liquor of the latter is not green, though it pro- 
 duces the fame effed upon woolen as the other. 
 It is alfo neceffary to obferve, that when the 
 liquor of the indigo Vat is changed out of the 
 velfel, and too long expofed to the air, it loofes 
 its green colour, and, at ^the fame time-, all its 
 qualities] fo that though'it yields a blue coloi:r, 
 it is not permanent. 1 fhall examine this more 
 particularly hereafter, when I fliall endeavour 
 to account chemically for this alteration, 
 
 CHAP. 
 
Co THEARTOF 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 Of the cold Indigo Vat with Urine, 
 
 THERE is likewife a cold preparation of 
 an Indigo Vat with Urine, and it is alfo 
 worked cold. For this purpofe, you take four 
 pounds of Indigo powdered, and put it into a 
 gallon of vinegar, leaving it to digeft, over a 
 flow fire, for four and twenty hours. At the 
 expiration of this time, if it be not perfeclly dif- 
 folved, it is again pounded in a mortar, with the 
 liquor, adding, now and then, a little Urine. 
 You afterwards put into it half a pound of 
 madder, mixing it well, by ftirring the whole 
 with a flick. When this preparation is finilhcd, 
 you pour it into a cafk containing fixty gallons of 
 Urine: it is of no confequence whether it be 
 ilale or frefh. You mix and ftir the whole well 
 togetherj and this fhould be repeated, morning 
 and evening, during the fpace of eight days, or 
 till the furface of the liquor becomes green, 
 when flirred, and produces froth like the com- 
 mon Vats. It may be worked immediately 
 without any other preparation than ftirring it 
 three or four hours bef6re hand. This kind of Vat 
 is extremely convenient, becaufe when it is once 
 prepared, it remains fo always, till it is intirely 
 exhaufted, that is to fay, till the Indigo has 
 yielded all its colour; hence it may be worked 
 at all times; whereas a common Vat muft be 
 prepared over night. 
 
 According 
 
DYING WOOL. 6i 
 
 According as you would have this Vat more 
 or lefs confiderable, you augment or diminifli the 
 ingredients in proportion to your quantity of 
 Indigo i thus, for every pound of Indigo, you 
 always put a quart of vinegar, two ounces of 
 madder, and fifteen gallons of Urine. This 
 Vat is much fooner prepared in funnmer than 
 in winter. If you would haften it, you need 
 only take a little of the liquor, heat it in a cop- 
 per, without fuffering it to boil, and afterwards 
 pour it into the Vat. This operation is fo 
 very fimple, that it is almoft impoflible it lliould 
 
 fail. 
 
 When the Indigo is intirely exhaufted, the 
 Vat may be renewed by dilTolving fome frefii 
 Indio-o in vinegar; but you mulV add madder in 
 proportion to the quantity of Indigo, and then 
 pour it into the Vat, which lliould be ftirred as 
 at firft, morning and evening: it will be as good 
 as if it were fre(h. This however Ihould not be 
 repeated more than four or five times; bccaufe the 
 grounds of the madder and Indigo would tarnifli 
 the liquor, which would confequently render the 
 colour Icfs bright. I muft however confefs, that, 
 as I have not myfelf experienced this Vat, I can- 
 not anfwer for its fuccefs. But the following, 
 with Urine, which I have feen prepared, dyes 
 woolens a very pernfianent blue. 
 
 A hot Indigo Vat with Urine, 
 
 A Pound of Indigo was firft fteeped in a gallon 
 ■^ of Urine, for twenty four hours; it was 
 afterwards ground in a large iron mortar, with 
 
 the 
 
6« THE ART OF 
 
 the fame Urine. When, by this .means, the 
 Urine became very blue, it was {trained through 
 a fine fieve into a fmall tub^ but the Indigo 
 which remained in the fieve was beaten again 
 in the mortar, with another gallon of frefh 
 Urine, and this was repeated till all the Indigo 
 pafled through the fieve with the Urine. This 
 operation, which continued two hours, being fi- 
 nifhed, about four o'clock in the evening fixty two 
 gallons of Urine was put into a copper, which was 
 made very hot, but without boiling; and the 
 fkim, which rofe on the furface of the Urine, 
 was brufhed off the copper with a befom. This 
 was frequently repeated 'till nothing rofe, but 
 a flight white flcum. The Urine being thus 
 fufficiently purified, and ready to boil, it was 
 thrown into the wooden Vatj the prepared 
 Indigo was then added, and the Vat ftirred with, 
 a rake, in order that the Indigo fhould incor- 
 porate with the Urine. Immediately afterwards 
 a mixture, confiding of a gallon of Urine, a 
 Akjaj^ -pound of alum, and a pound of red tartar, was 
 ^*^^^ added to the Vat j but thefe were firil reduced 
 to a fine powder. The Urine was then ppured 
 on it in the mortar, and mixed together, till it 
 ceafed to ferment. It was then poured into 
 theVat, well ftirred, and covered: in this fituation 
 it was left all night. The next morning the 
 liquor was very green. This fiiowed that the 
 Vat was in a proper fl:ate, and that it might 
 have been ufed; but it was fuffercd to remain 
 without working, l^ecaufe all that had been 
 hitherto done, was only the firft preparation of 
 
 the 
 
DYING WOOL. 6i 
 
 the Vat, and the Indigo, which had been puc 
 into it, was defigned only to nourifh ahd temper 
 the Urine. Hence the Vat was fuffered to reft 
 two days, in order to complete the preparation, 
 but covered all the time, to prevent it from 
 cooling too faft ; it was then managed as follows : 
 A fecond pound of Indigo was beaten with 
 purifyed Urine, as abovej about four o'clock in 
 the afternoon the whole Vat was emptied into 
 the copper : it was then made very hot, but not 
 boiled. It ftill produced a thick fkum, which 
 was taken off, and the liquor, being near boiling, 
 was returned into the Vat. The Indigo v/as 
 immediately added, bruifed as above, with a 
 pound of alum, a pound of tartar, and two . 
 quarts of Urine, with the addition of another 
 pound of madder: it was then llirred, clofe 
 covered, and fuffered to remain fo all night. 
 The next morning it was in very good order, 
 the liquor being very hot, and of a beautiful 
 green: hence it was evidently in a proper ftate 
 for Dying; which was executed in the following 
 manner. The fubftance to be dyed was woolen 
 fleece. 
 
 This fleece had been well fcoured with Urine, 
 well waflied, and perfeflly well drained. Being 
 thus prepared, thirty pounds of it was put into 
 the Vat. It was then well opened with the hands, 
 uiat it might be equally drenched; and after 
 this it was fuffered to remain an hour or two, 
 according to the degree of fliade that was re- 
 quired. During this time the Vat was kept 
 clofe covered, in order to prcferve the heat, for 
 
 the 
 
6+ THEARTOF 
 
 the hotter it is the better it dyes : when it 
 becomes cold it ceafes to adt. When the wool 
 was fufficiently blue, it was taken out in large 
 balls, as big as a man's head, and ac the fame 
 time fqueezed and wrung over the Vat, and 
 immediately given to four or five women, who 
 Hood round the Vat, in order to open it, and 
 expofe it to the air, between their hands, till the 
 green colour, which it had coming out of the 
 Vat, changed to blue. This change was pro- 
 duced in three or four minutes. Thefe thirty 
 pounds being thus dyed, the Vat was raked and 
 then fuffered to ftand for two hours, keeping 
 it always clofe covered. At the expiration of this 
 time, they put in another thirty pounds of wool, 
 which was opened well with the hands. The 
 Vat was again covered, and, in four or five 
 hours, this wool had taken as good a colour 
 as the former j it was then taken out of the Vac 
 in balls, in the fame manner as the former. 
 This operation being finilhed, the Vat was ftill 
 warm, but not fufficiently fo to dye any more 
 wool J for when it has not a fufRcient degree 
 of heat, the colour which it yields will be 
 neither uniform nor folidj hence it is neceflary 
 tore-heat, and replenifh with Indigo as before: 
 this may be done as often as you think pro- 
 per^ becaufe this Vat never fpoils by age, pro- 
 vided, that while it is kept idle, you give it a 
 little air. 
 
 ^9 
 
DYING WOOL. 65 
 
 ^0 re-heat a Urine Vat, 
 
 A BOUT four o'clock in the afternoon all the 
 liquor was emptied into the copper, with 
 the addition of a fufficient quantity of Urine, 
 80 replace what had been evaporated and loft 
 in the preceding work. This generally requires 
 about eight or nine buckets of Urine. The 
 copper was then heated, the ikim taken off, 
 as before; when ready to boil, it was re- 
 turned into the wooden Vat. You add to it a 
 pound of Indigo, pounded and mixed with Urine 
 as above, a pound of alum, a pound of tartar, a 
 pound of madder, and two quarts of Urine. 
 After the Vat is ftirrcd and clofe covered, it is 
 fuffered to (land all night. It will be in a pro- 
 per ftate the next day, and capable of dying 
 fixty pounds of wool at twice, as above. In this 
 manner, the re-heatings fhould be always done 
 tlie day before you want to dye, and may be 
 repeated ad-infinitum. 
 
 It is neceflary to obferve that the more Indigo 
 you put into the Vat at once, the deeper 
 the colour: thus, inftead of one pound, you 
 may add four, five, or fix, without in- 
 creafing the quantity of alum, tartar, or madder^ 
 but, if the Vat contains more than three hogf- 
 heads, the quantity of the ingredients fliould be 
 proportionally augmented. That which I have 
 juft mentioned contained only three hogflieads, 
 and was confcquently too fmall to dye at one 
 time a fufficient quantity of wool to make a 
 piece of cloth, -v/z. fifty-five or fixty pounds. 
 
 F To 
 
66 THE ART OF 
 
 To do this properly, it fhould contain fix hogf- 
 heads, which would be attended with a double 
 advantage. Firft, all the wool might be dyed in 
 two or three hours; whereas, by twice dipping, 
 it could not be finifhed in lefs than eight or ten. 
 Secondly, at the expiration of the three hours, 
 the Vat would be ftill very warm ; fo that after 
 flirring, and letting it fettle for a couple of hours, 
 the fame wool may be dipped again j by this 
 means the colour is heightened almoft as much 
 more; becaufe wool, once dyed, always takes a 
 much better colour than new, or white wool, 
 though fuffered to remain in the Vat even for 
 twenty hours. 
 
 It is neceflary to be very attentive in opening 
 . the dyed balls as foon as they are taken out of 
 theVat, and expofing them to the air, in order to 
 change them from green to blue, which fhould 
 be done by many hands at the fame time, that 
 they may be equally affected by the air; elfe the 
 blue colour will not be uniform. 
 
 Some manufacturers pretend that cloth, 
 the wool of which had been dyed in this Urine 
 Vat, cannot be perfedly fcowered by fulling,' 
 even at twice; others affirm the contrary, and 
 I believe they are right. Neverthelefs, if the 
 firft be right, one would fuppofe that the 
 animal oil of the Urine was become refinous, 
 by drying on the wool, or, tiiat incorporating 
 with the oil, by which the wool had been 
 moiftened for its other preparations, it would be 
 more likely to refift the fullers earth and foap, 
 than fimple oil by expreflion. To remedy 
 this, it is only necelTary to walh the wool 
 
 in 
 
DYING WOOL. 67 
 
 in running water after it has been dyed, ex- 
 prefled, and opened, ungreened and again cold. 
 Be this as it may, a Paftel Vat in a large 
 Dye-houfc is preferable to thcfe kind of 
 Jndigo Vats prepared with Urine, becaufe with 
 a good woad Vat and a dextrous woad-man, 
 you expedite more work than could be accom- 
 plifhed with any other blue Vat. In mention- 
 ing the feveral Indigo Vats in this treatife, 
 my defign is not fo much to introduce them 
 into great manufactories, as to affift thofe who 
 work at fmall fabricks, to whom, I flatter myfelf, 
 this treatife will be equally ufeful. I will even 
 defcribc a cold Vat, for the dyers of fmall ftufFs, 
 mixed with thread or cotton, which fucceeds 
 very well, but which would be of no ufe for 
 woolens. 
 
 C H A P. IX. 
 
 A cold Indigo Vat withotit Urine. 
 
 A.T Rouen, and other towns of this kingdom, 
 they make ufe of a cold Indigo Vat, dif- 
 fering from that firft mentioned Vat, in the pre- 
 ceding chapter, which is more commodious, 
 as it is much fooner ready, and has no bad fmell. 
 It is prepared in the following manner. 
 
 Three pounds of Indigo, well pulverized, 
 is put into a glazed earthen veflel, and diffolved 
 in three pints of foap-boiler's lixivium, which is a 
 llrong folution of foffile alkali, with quick lime. 
 I have made ufe of a folution of pot-aihes, and 
 fucceeded very well. The folution of Indigo 
 
 F 2 is 
 
e§ THfiARTOF 
 
 is performed in about twenty-four hours, as 
 may be eafily difcovered by its remaining fuf- 
 pended in the liquor, which is thereby thick- 
 ened, and becomes like an extra6l. At the 
 fame time, you put into another vcfiel three 
 pounds of flacked lime, fifted, with fix quarts 
 of water. The whole fliould boil during a 
 quarter of an hour, and, when fettled, fhould be 
 drained off clear. You afterwards diflblve in 
 this lime water three pounds of green copperas, 
 fuffering it to fettle till the next day. You 
 then put feventy-five gallons of water into a 
 large deal cafl:, the only wood proper for the 
 purpofe, as any other, particularly oak, would 
 blacken and tarnifli the liquor. The two 
 folutions, which had been prepared the night 
 before, are then added, the Vat ftirred, and left 
 to fettle. I have feen it fometimcs take the 
 colour in two hours j but with this Vat it was 
 very different, not being ready till very late the 
 next. day. It produces a great quantity of froth, 
 and the liquor taiies a fine green colour, but a little 
 ycllowilh, fomething like the green of the com- 
 mon Vat. 
 
 When the Vat is almoft exhaufted, it is reple- 
 niflied and quickened without frefli Indigo, by 
 adding to it a fmall liquor, confiding of two 
 pounds of green copperas dilTolved in a fufficient 
 quantity of lime water. But when the colour of 
 the Indigo is quite exhaufted, it fliould be reple- 
 nifhed with frefh I ndigo, diffbl ved in alixivium, fuch 
 as I have juft defcribed. It is natural to fuppofe 
 that the quantity of your other ingredients mufl 
 be augmented or diminifhed in proportion to the 
 2 Indigo 
 
D Y I N G VV O O L. 69 
 
 Indigo. Some Dyers ufe a mixture of vinegar 
 and water, impregnated with rufty iron. They 
 fuppofe that the colour is thereby rendered more 
 folidi but I am convinced by experience that 
 there is no necefTity for it, and that the colour 
 is as permanent as any of the other blues, pre- 
 pared as I have direfled above. 
 
 fhe firfl. time I prepared thisVat, I proceeded 
 according to a receipt fent me from Rouen, 
 The foap-boiler's lixivium was fimply deno- 
 minated ftrong water. I fufpefled this to 
 proceed cither from malice or miftake, never- 
 thelefs, as in matters of fad, it is unjuft 
 to condemn, without examination, I tryed 
 the common aqua-fortisy which produced the 
 following effect. 
 
 I took halt a pound of Indigo, well pow- 
 dered, and fteeped it in half a pint of common 
 aqua-fcrtisy made with vitriol and falt- 
 petre: this produced a fermentation. In this 
 fituation I left it for twenty-four hours, and 
 having, as in the preceding operation, diflblved 
 a pound of copperas in fome lime water, I 
 potired thefe two mixtures into a cafk con- 
 taining about feventeen gallons of river water. 
 I ftirred it well, but there appeared nothing 
 extraordinary the next day. 1 flill continued 
 to ftir three times a day, for two days together, 
 and then fuffered it to reft for two days more, 
 perfuading myfelf that it was abfolutely fpoilt. 
 At the expiration of thefe four days, the liquor 
 became of a red colour, but clearer than the 
 Paftel Vats. I ftirred it once more, and let 
 it ftand fix days longer: it had then a little 
 
 F 3 froth 
 
70 THEARTOF 
 
 froth, but very pale: fix days afterwards the 
 furface of the liquor became brown, and under- 
 neath, a brown green. I ftirred again, and 
 fancied that the liquor underneath was ftill 
 reddiih, though the froth which it threw up was of 
 a good colour j I therefore conceived hopes that 
 it would do, and that I fhould be able to work 
 it the next day. 
 
 At the expiration of fixteen hours, I dipped 
 fome cotton, which took colour, but fo very 
 weak, that I was obliged to let it remain in the 
 liquor feveral hours, till the blue became fuf- 
 ficiently deep. It then withftood the fummer 
 air and fun tolerably well, for twelve days ; never- 
 thclefs, I had the Vat thrown out as ufelefs, 
 on account of its tedious operation. Doubtlefs, 
 it might have been recovered with lime, or fome 
 other alkali that would have abforbed the 
 acid of the aqua-foriis, but it was not worth the 
 pains. Befides the anfwer which I received from 
 the perfon who fent me the receipt from Rouen, 
 contained an explanation with regard to the 
 kind of aqua-fortis that fhould be ufedj from 
 which 1 learnt that it fhould have been the 
 foap-boiler's /a7z;/>»2, which inftead of being acid, 
 is one of the moll cauftic alkalies. In fad, by 
 making ufe of this alkaline lixivium, the opera- 
 tion was attended with immediate fuccefs, and 
 never failed me fince. 
 
 I tryed feveral of thefe different Vats in 
 miniature, in cucurbits, put into a water 
 or fand bath. Thefe laft are attended with 
 no difficulty J it is only neceffary to diminifh 
 
 the 
 
DYING WOOL. 7t 
 
 the quantity of the liquor, and of every in- 
 gredient, in proportion to your Vat, and it is 
 fcarce pofTible it Ihould not fucceed. 
 
 Concerning that which I firft defcribed, and 
 which is fet hot, as it is attended with a little 
 more difficulty, and that feveral perfons may 
 wi(h to try this operation themfelves, being 
 rather curious and requiring neither expence 
 nor preparation, in miniature ; I will give the 
 defcription of a procefs which fucceeded ex- 
 tremely well, and v/hich I purpofely fupplied 
 with much more Jndigo than is generally done 
 in the common method. 
 
 I boiled two quarts of water with two drachms 
 of madder, and four ounces of pearl afhes. When 
 it had boiled a quarter of an hour, I poured 
 it into a cucurbite, containing about a gallon, 
 which was previouQy heated with hot water, 
 in which I had put a quarter of a handful of 
 bran. The whole being well ftirred with' a 
 deal fpatula, I put my cucurbite into a very 
 moderate fand heat, "fufficient only to keep 
 it warm, or nearly of the fame degree of heat 
 requifitein a common Indigo Vat. 
 
 I continued the fand heat all night and the next 
 day, without perceiving any alteration. I ftirred 
 it only twice, during the day, with the fpatula. 
 -The day following it produced an efflorefcence, 
 formed a coppery fkum on the furface, and the 
 liquor became a brown green. I then filled it 
 with a mixture compofed of a quart of water, 
 two ounces of pearl afhes, and a little bran. Ic 
 was well mixed, and then left to fettle. It 
 became perfectly well coloured, and the next 
 
 F 4 day 
 
^2. THE ART OF 
 
 day I dyed feveral bits of woolen fluffs, 
 Thefe fmall Vats are re-heated and replenifhed, 
 with as mucheafe as a great one. 
 
 I think I have nothing more to add, concerning 
 the method of fetting the different kind of Vats 
 for dying blue. Neverthelefs I make no doubt, 
 but there are feveraJ other methods, ufed in 
 different places^, and that new ones may be in- 
 vented without any great difficulty, i will only 
 add, that thofc which 1 have defcribed may be 
 depended upon, and that all of them were feveral 
 times tryed with equal fuccefs. 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 Of the method cf dymg Blue. 
 
 WHEN the Vat, of whatfoever kind it be, 
 is once prepared, and in a proper ftate, 
 there is no difficulty in dying woolens or ftuffs, 
 4S it is requifite only to foak them in clean warm 
 water, to wring them, and then to immerfe them 
 in the Vat, for a longer or fhorter time, accord- 
 ing as you would have the colour more or lefs 
 deep. The ftuff fhould be from time to time 
 opened, that is to fay, taken out and wrung over 
 the Vat, and cxpofed to the air for a minute 
 or two, till it becomes Blue. For let your Vat 
 be what it will, the fluff will be green when taken 
 out, and will become Blue, when expofed to 
 the air. In this manner, it is very proper to 
 let the colour change before you immerie your 
 Huffs 4 fecond time, as you are thereby better 
 
 enabled 
 
DYING WOOL. 73 
 
 enabled to judge, whether they will require 
 only one, or feveral dips. 
 
 'Tis a cuftom with Dyers to enumerate thir- 
 teen Ihades of Blue, from the darkefl to the 
 lighteft. Though their denominations are 
 rather arbitrary, and that it is impoflible to fix 
 their juft gradation, it is, however, necelTary to 
 diftinguiili them by fuch names as are found 
 in the inftrudiion for Dyers, publifhed in 1669, 
 by order of M. Colbert, They are as follow, 
 begining with the ligheft. 
 
 White Blue J Pearl Bluej Pale Blue, Faint Blue, 
 Delicate Blue, Sky Blue, ^een's Blue, Turkey Blue, 
 King's Blue, Garter Blue, Perjian Blue, Aldego 
 Blue, and Infernal Blue, 
 
 Thefe diftindtions are not equally received 
 by all Dyers, in every province j but the greater 
 part are acknowledged by them as neceflary 
 to form fome idea of the fame colour, differing 
 only by being more or lefsdark. 
 
 There is no difficulty in dying dark Blues, 
 it being required only to repeat the dipping 
 at feveral times. But it is different with re- 
 gard to light Blues, it being often dangerous, 
 when the Vat is in a proper ftate, to let the 
 woolens remain long enough to take the fhade 
 you want. It even frequently happens, that 
 when there is a certain quantity of wool to be 
 dyed, and that it is impoffible to put it into the 
 Vat at the fame inftant, the iirfl batch will 
 imbibe the deepeft Ihade. To avoid this incon- 
 venience, fome Dyers in order to procure th« 
 lighteft Blue, which they call bleached, or 
 white Blue, dilute their Indigo Vat with ^ 
 
 quantity 
 
74 THEARTOF 
 
 quantity of warm water. But this is a bad 
 method, becaufe the colour obtained from this 
 mixture is nothing like fo permanent as the colour 
 of the original Vat; for the alterant ingredients of 
 the Indigo Vat, ferving as much to open the 
 pores of the fubjeft dipped, as to develope the 
 colouring matter, they are necefiary to the 
 permanency of the colour. The beft me- 
 thod of producing thefe light Blues is to dip 
 them in the Vats, whether Indigo or Paftel, 
 when the colour is exhaufted, and when they 
 begin to grow cold. The Paftel Vat is the 
 beft for this purpofe, becaufe it does not dye 
 quite fo quick as the Indigo 5 but this obfer- 
 vation I have made before. 
 
 It is very certain that Blues dyed in the 
 exhaufted Vats will be lefs bright; but they 
 may be very fenfibly enlivened, by paiTing 
 the fluffs, or wool, through boiling water. 
 This praftice is even neceftary for the improve- 
 ment of all Blue fhades ; for befides rendering 
 the colour more lively and fixed, it alfo 
 cleanfes the ftufFs from thofe loofe impurities 
 which foil the hands and linen, as is almoft con- 
 flantly the cafe : in order to favc time, the 
 Dyers are too frequently negligent in this par- 
 ticular. When the work is taken out of the 
 hot water it ftiould be rinced in a' running 
 Itream. 
 
 If a dark Blue, it were ftill more advifeable 
 to full it well in foap and water, and afterwards 
 to rince it at the river. The foap will not, in 
 any relped, injure the Blue; it will on the con- 
 trary make it more bright and lively. 
 
 Stuffs 
 
DYING WOOL. 75 
 
 Stuffs, which are dyed Blue, in order to be 
 dyed Black, fhould be cleanfed with equal care, 
 as fliall be fpecifyed in my article upon Black; 
 but for thofe to be dyed Green, it is not quite 
 fo neccffaryj the realbn of which will appear 
 when I come to fpeak of that colour. 
 
 There remains, I think, no other difficulty 
 with refped to the preparation of Blue, and to 
 the method of dying this colour. Some Dyers, 
 diflioneftly, in order to fave Paftel and Indigo, 
 make ule of Logwood j but this, though fre- 
 quently more lively than a folid and legitimate 
 Blue, fhould be exprefsly prohibited. I Ihall 
 be more explicit in this particular, when treat- 
 ing of colours not in grain. 
 
 There remains only to explain the invifible 
 mechanifm of the Blue Dye. This colour, con- 
 fidered only with refpedt to its utility in dying 
 all forts of ftufts, has been hitherto obtained 
 from the vegetable kingdom only j nor is there 
 any probability that the painters Blues will ever 
 be employed in the Art of Dying, viz. Priiffian 
 Blue, which is a fpecies of animal and mineral 
 fubftance. [In 1748, M. yi^o^x^x of the Roy.al Aca- 
 demy of Sciences^ dijccvered a inethod of dying filk 
 and cloth with a preparation of Prufjian Blue, Jupe^ 
 rior to all the Blues that had heen hitherto dyed.J 
 Azure, which is a vitrifyd mineral. Ultramarine, 
 which is obtained from a hard ftone, prepared, 
 or the Blue earths, &c. Thefe various fub- 
 flances cannot, without wholly, or in fome degree, 
 lofing their colour, be reduced into atoms, fuf- 
 ficiently minute, to be fufpended in the faline 
 liquid, which Ihould penetrate the fibres of 
 
 whatever 
 
76 THEARTOF 
 
 whatever fubftance the ftufF is made, whether 
 animal or vegetable. Under the word ftuff, I 
 comprehend, in this place, as well linen and 
 cotton, as fiik and woolens. 
 
 Hitherto we know of only two plants capable 
 of dying Blue, viz. J/atis or Glajlum, called 
 Pailel in Languedoc, and Woad in Normandy. 
 It is prepared by fermenting, almoft to putre- 
 fadion, the entire plant, except the root, con- 
 fcquently it confifts in a developement of their 
 principles, in anew combination and arrangement 
 of thefe fame principles ; hence refuks an aifem- 
 blage of particles, infinitely fubtle, which being 
 applyed to any fubjeft, refieft rays of light very 
 different from thofe which they would have 
 refleded, were the fame particles ftill joyned to 
 thofe which had been feparated by fermentation. 
 
 yinil, the other plant, cultivated in the Eaft 
 and Weft-Indies, is prepared and fent to Eng- 
 land under the name of Indigo. In the prepa- 
 ration of this lad plant, the Indians and Ame- 
 ricans, more induftrious than we are, have 
 difcovered the art of feparating the colouring 
 particles from thofe which are of no ufe ; and 
 the French and SDanifh colonies, after their ex- 
 ampJe, make it a confiderable article of com- 
 merce. 
 
 The Indigo imported from America, and 
 which transfers its colouring particles, of fo 
 •jBuch confequence in the Art of Dying, to the 
 JTianufaclured ituffs or wool, is infufed in the 
 fevcral ways defcribcd above. Thefe may be 
 reduced to three: The infufion of the cold Indigo 
 Var, ufed for Thread or Cotton; the hot Vats 
 
 ufed 
 
DYING WOOL. 77 
 
 ufed for all kinds of ftuff. To the cold Vat is 
 added, befides the Indigo, pearl allies, copperas, 
 or green vitriol, lime, madder, and bran. 
 The hot Vats are prepared with water or urine. 
 If with water, you add fome pearl alh, and a little 
 madder i if with urine, a little alum and tartar. 
 Either of diefe Vats, defigned chiefly for woolens, 
 require a moderate degree of heat, fufficient 
 however to give the wool a permanent colour, 
 that is to fay, as I have already obferved, a 
 colour capable of refilling the dcftrudtive effefta 
 of the air and fun, and of the trials enjoined; 
 a detail of which may be feen in the new Infirm- 
 tions of 1733. 
 
 I have myfelf prepared, as I obferved, thefe 
 three Vats in mi nature, in cylindrical glafs 
 veflels, expofed to the light, in order to obferveT^ 
 the efFeft before the infufion acquired colour, viz* 
 before it became green under the fcum, or blue 
 on the furface, which is a fign of interior 
 fermentation. This green colour is, as I have 
 already faid, abfolutely eflential to the liquor, 
 and without which, the colour of the ftuff 
 would entirely fade by the fmalleft trials. 
 
 I will now defcribe the fmall cold Indigo Vat, 
 becaufe in this the variations arc more eafily dif- 
 cernable, and becaufe there is no very eflential 
 difference between it and the two others. It is 
 however neceflary, before I proceed to intimate 
 Ihat by the word part, in this experimental 
 memoire, I mean a meafure weighing four 
 drachms, or half an ounce of any fubilance, 
 whether liquid or folid, and that this is the 
 
 quantity 
 
^g THEARTOF 
 
 quantity meant, as often as I make ufe of the 
 term parts in the account of thefe experiments. 
 
 I have put 300 parts water, in a veflel contain- 
 ing five hundred and twelve of thefe parts, or two 
 gallons, in which I diflblved fix parts of green 
 copperas, which gave the liquor a yellow tinge. 
 I then diflblved fix parts pot-afh, in thirty-fix 
 parts water, feparatelyi when the folution was 
 complete, I digefled, over a very flow fire, for 
 three hours, Cix parts, or three ounces of Indigo 
 of St. Domingo, well bruifed. It fwelled very 
 much-, and rifing from the bottom of this alkaline 
 liquor, formed a kind of fyrup, thick and 
 blue, by which it appeared that the Indigo was 
 only divided, not diflblved j for had the folution 
 been perfedl, this thick liquor would have been 
 green inftead of blue; becaufe all liquor, if 
 coloured blue by any kind of vegetable, becomes 
 green when mixed with an alkali, whether fixed 
 or volatile. Hencewe begin to difcover why Indigo 
 does not dye fluffs a permanent Blue when the li- 
 quor is not green : for, in that cafe, the folution is 
 not complete, and the alkali cannot a6t on the 
 firfl: elementary particles, as, for inftance, it acts 
 on thetincflure of violets, which, being a perfcdt 
 folution of the colouringparticles of ihefe flowers, 
 becomes inftantly green. 
 
 I poured this thick Blue liquor into a 
 folution of vitriol, and, having ftirred it well, 
 added fix parts of lime, flaked in the air : this 
 experiment was made in cold weather j the ther- 
 mometer was two degrees below the freezing 
 point ; hence this Vat was near four days in 
 conping to its colour j but the fermentation, 
 
 5 which 
 
DYING WOOL. 79 
 
 which neceflarily takes place in all vitriolic 
 liquors, mixed with an alkaline fair, fuch as pot- 
 afh or an alkaline earth, went on fo flowly, 
 that there was but very little appearance of froth, 
 or air bubbles, on the furface of the liquor. In 
 . a warm feafon, and by ufing lime, frefli cal- 
 cined, thefe Vats are fometimes in a proper ftate 
 for dying in the fpace of four hours. 
 
 As often as this mixture was ftirred with the 
 fpatula, I always remarked that what firit fell 
 to the bottom of the veflel was the iron' of 
 vitriol, or the copperas which had been precipi- 
 tated by the alkaline fait uniting with the acid. 
 Hence, in the operation of the cold Indigo 
 Vat, a vitrioUted tartar is formed, in the man- 
 ner of Techenius ; whereas in the common me- 
 thod of preparing this neutral fait, an acid fpirit 
 of vitriol is poured on a true alkaline fait, as 
 fait of tartar, or pot-afh. This circumftance 
 infenfibly leads to the theory of dying the good 
 dye,! muft intreat the reader to bear this in mind, 
 as I mean to avail myfelf of it in the fequel of 
 this memoire. 
 
 After the iron is precipitated, you perceive 
 the earth of the lime fall to the bottom: this is 
 eafily perceived by its whitenefs, which does not 
 begin to change to a colour more difficult to 
 diftinguilh, till the colouring particles of the 
 Indigo are, in fome degree, developed.. At 
 laft the dregs of the Indigo depofites on the top 
 of this white earth, which gradually rarefies ia 
 fuch a manner, that the fubftance, which, on 
 the firft day occupies no more than an inch on 
 the top of the precipitated lime, rifcs infenfibly 
 
 within 
 
to THEARTOF 
 
 within half an inch of the furfaceof the liquor, 
 which, on the third day, becomes fo opaque that 
 nothing more can be diftinguifhed. 
 
 This rarefaftion of the Indigo, flow in cold 
 weather and quick in fummer, and which in 
 winter may be accelerated by giving it fifteen 
 or eighteen degrees of heat,' is a proof that a 
 real fermentation takes place in this mixture, by 
 which the atoms of the Indigo are opened, and 
 divided into particles of an extreme tenuity. 
 Their furfaces being thus multiplyed, almoil: 
 ad infinitum, they are thus more equally diftri- 
 buted in the liquor, which is thereby rendered 
 more capable of depofiting uniformly the colour- 
 ing atoms, on the fubjed immerfed in order to 
 be dyed. 
 
 If this fermentation be accelerated by heat, 
 you perceive on the furface of the liquor a great 
 quantity of Blue froth, which has a copperous 
 tinge, becaufe it refledts the colours of ihe 
 rainbow, in which the red and the yellow pre- 
 dominate: this phenomenon is not however pe- 
 culiar to the Indigo, as all mixtures in the aft of 
 fermentation, efpecially thofe which contain oily 
 and faline particles have the fame appearance. 
 Urine, fweat, and many other bodies, when 
 in a fermenting ftate, produce thefe rainbow 
 colours on their furface. 
 
 The froth of the Indigo Vat appears Blue 
 becaufe it is expofed to the exterior and conti- 
 guous air J but, if you take a little of the liquor 
 from under the froth with a ladle, it will appear 
 more or lefs green in proportion as it is more 
 or Icfs faturated with the colouring particles. 
 
 Th(? 
 
DYING WOOL; 8i 
 
 The rcafon of this difference will be fhewn in 
 the fequel of this memoir, or at leaft a probable 
 application of this Blue change, which, as I 
 have before obferved, is abfolutely necefiary 
 towards the fuccefs of the operation defcribed. 
 
 When the Vat is in this ftate, as I have faid 
 before, it is capable of dying cotton, thread, or 
 linen, &c. and the colour taken by thefe bodies 
 is durable, and goodi that is to fay, will 
 keep their colour, though they lliould remain 
 for a confiderable time in a boiling folution of 
 foap fuds. This trial is preferable to all others, 
 becaufe cottons and linens, when, dirty are whit- 
 ened by foap. 
 
 Though the Indigo Vat, when in this ftate, 
 will dye well without the addition of any 
 other fubftance, the Dyers, who are accuftomed 
 to the cold Vat, add, as in warm Vats, a de- 
 coftion of madder and bran, in common water, 
 and ftrained through 'a fieve* This they call 
 Sever, The madder is added, as they fay, to 
 fix by its tenacity the colour of the Indigo. And 
 the bran to fweeten the water, which, as they 
 imagine, almofl: conftantly contains feme par- 
 ticles of an acid fait, and which in their opinion 
 it is necefTary to counteract, at leaft fuch are the 
 fentiments of thofe whom I have confulted. 
 
 This is the remains of the ancient prejudice 
 againft Indigo which fubfifted in M. Colbert's - 
 timej and this minifter, whofe great employ- 
 ments prevented him from being a witnefs to the 
 experiments upon which he pronounced judge- 
 ment, prohibited the ufe of Indigo alone. Ne- 
 verthelcfs, fincethe Council, convinced by the ex- 
 G periment;^ 
 
82 THEARTOF 
 
 perlments of the late M. Dufay, has acknow- 
 ledged the ftability of the Blue dye of this in- 
 o-redient to be equal to their wifh, the new 
 Regulation of 1737 has left the Dyers at 
 liberty to ufe it either alone or mixed with the 
 Paftel. Hence, though they ftill continue to 
 ufe madder, it is only becaufe this root furnifhes 
 rather a deep red, which, mixing with the In- 
 digo, gives a fort of violet tinge, and has a 
 better efFedl: to the eye. 
 
 With regard to the bran, when ufed, it is 
 not fo much to neutralife the fuppofed acid in 
 the water, as to difFufe a certain quantity of 
 mucilage, or vifcous fubftance; for the fmall 
 quantity of farina, which remains in the liquor 
 of the Vat, diminifhes in fome degree its too 
 great fluidity, and confequently prevents the 
 colouring particles, therein fufpended, from 
 precipitating with fo much velocity as they 
 would otherwife do in a liquor which had not 
 acquired a certain degree of thicknefs. 
 
 Notwithftandina; this gluten diffufed in the 
 liquor, both from the bran and madder, which 
 alfo furnifhes a glutinous fubftance, the colour- 
 ing particles will fall to the bottom of the 
 vcflel, if fuffered to remain for fome days 
 without flirring. In this cafe the fubjedt dipped 
 in the top of the liquor obtains but a faint 
 tinges and therefore if you would have it take a 
 proper colour, you muft again ftir the mixture, 
 and then let it reft for an hour or two, till the iron 
 of the copperas, and the grofs particles of the 
 lime are, by their own weight, again precipitated; 
 left in mixing with the real colouring particles, 
 
 they 
 
DYING WOOL. .'% 
 
 they Ihould injure their efFedl, by depofiting on 
 the fubje6t to be dyed certain loofe particles, 
 which in drying would render it powdry, 
 and of which each atom A^ould occupy a fpacc, 
 where the real colouring particle could neither 
 be introduced, nor • depofited in immediate 
 conta(5t with the fubjeft. 
 
 Purfuing the common method, I boiled one 
 fart of grape-madder and one pari of bran in a 
 hundred and feventy four /)<3r/j of water. This 
 proportion of water is not nccefTary; you may 
 put more or lefsi but I filled my veflel, which 
 contained five hundred and twelve pat'iSy as 
 I have faid above. I drained this Bever 
 through a linen, by expreffion, and then put 
 it, ftill warm, and of a blood red, into the 
 Indigo Vat J obfcrving the neceflary precaution, 
 not to break the cryflal veflel in which it was 
 contained. I flirted the whole, and at the expira- 
 tion of two hours the liquor became green, 
 confequently ready for ufe i and in efFeft it dyed 
 cotton of a folid and more lively Blue than 
 before the addition of the madder. 
 
 Let us now enquire into the particular caufe 
 of the folidity of this colour, which will pro- 
 bably be the general caufe of the tenacity 
 of all others, for it appears from the above 
 mentioned trials, that this tenacity depends 
 on the choice of the falts, added to the 
 decodlions of the colouring ingredients, when 
 the fame ingredients do not of themfelves 
 contain fomething of the fame nature. If with 
 the confequences Which I deduce from the 
 choice of thefe falts,. of their nature and of 
 
 G 2 their 
 
94. THE ART OF 
 
 their properties, we admit, what cannot 
 juftly be objeded to, viz. the greater or lefs 
 degree of tenuity, or homogenioufnefs, of the 
 colouring particles of the ingredients ufed in 
 the Art of Dying, the whole theory of this 
 art will be foon underftood, without the ne- 
 cefllty of fuppofing uncertain or difputable 
 caufes. 
 
 It may be eafily conceived, that the falts 
 which are added to the Indigo Vat are as neccf- 
 fary for opening the pores of the fubjeft to be 
 dyed, as for developing the colouring atoms 
 of this drug. In other preparations for dying, 
 which fiiall be mentioned in the fequel of this 
 treatife, the fluffs are boiled in a folution of 
 falts, called by the Dyers preparation. In 
 this they generally ufe tartar and alum. 
 At the expiration of fome hours, the fluff is- 
 taken out, lightly fqueezed, and kept moifl, 
 in a cool place, during fome days, that the 
 faline liquor may continue to aft, and pre- 
 pare it to receive the colour of the ingre- 
 dients, in a decoflion of which it is afterwards 
 boiled. Without this preparation, we arc 
 tAught by experience that the colours would 
 not be folid, at leafl, in mofl cafes; it mufl 
 be confefTcd, however, that there are fome in- 
 gredients, which, though the fluffs are not 
 previoufly prepared, give a permanent colour; 
 but that is when the ingredients themfclves 
 contain the preparatory falts. It is therefore 
 ncceffary to enlarge and cleanfe the natural 
 pores of the fibres of the wool, by the 
 afTiflance of tbefe falts, which are in fome de- 
 2 grec 
 
DYING WOOL. 85 
 
 grec corrofiTe, and perhaps alfo to open frefli 
 pores, in order to lodge the colouring atoms. 
 Thefe atoms are forced into them by the 
 ebullition of the liquor with repeated ftrokes. 
 The pores, already enlarged by thefe falts, 
 are ftill more dilated by che heat of the boling 
 water, and afterwards contracted by the ex- 
 ternal air, when the ftutf is taken out of the 
 copper, when expofed to the air, or when 
 plunged into cold water. 
 
 If befides this elafticity of the fides of the 
 pores, we fuppofe that their infides arc lined 
 with a coat of the faline liquor, it is eafy to 
 conceive, that this will be another artificial 
 means of retaining the colouring atoms ; which 
 having entered into the pores, whilft this faline 
 lining was in a ftate of folution, confequently 
 liquid, and this lining being afterwards con- 
 gealed by the external cold, the atoms are re- 
 tained both by the above mentioned elafticity, 
 and by the lining; which, becoming hard by 
 cryftalization, forms a kind of maftick. If 
 moreover the coloured atom be of fuch tCr 
 nuity, that the fmall eminence which remains 
 apparent at the orifice of the pores, and 
 without which the fubjedt would not have the 
 appearance of being dyed, be not fo far elevated 
 as to expofe it to Ihocks fufficiently powerful 
 to overcome the refiftance of the fides, and of 
 the gluten by which it is retained, we may 
 conclude that the colour refulting from thefe 
 atoms, thus properly confined, will be ex- 
 tremely folid, and may be termed good d^e, 
 G 3 provided 
 
86 THEARTOF 
 
 provided the faline gluten cannot be dcftroyed 
 either by the heat of the fun or moifture of the 
 air. 
 
 We know of only two falts in chymiftry, 
 which, being once cryftalized, will not diflblve 
 in cold water j for there is fcarce any other fait 
 but will be reduced into meal or white duft, 
 by being for many days expofed to the fun. 
 Xhefe falts are, tartar, either as it comes from 
 the wine cafks or purifyed, and vitriolated 
 tartar. All other falts want one of thefe 
 two properties. Vitriolated tartar may be 
 made by a mixture of any fait, the acid bafis 
 of which is vitriolic, as copperas and alum, 
 and a fait already alkalized, or which, when 
 deprived of its acid, may become alkali, and 
 which m.ay be eafily accomplifhed, provided 
 it be weaker than the acid of vitriol} fuch as 
 the acid of all efiential falts, procured from vege- 
 tables. 
 
 In the operation of the Blue Vat, which I 
 •worked in miniature, in order to try its effeds, 
 I mixed copperas and pot-aih, which is an 
 alkaline fait ready prepared. As foon as their 
 folutions became united, the iron of the copperas 
 was- immediately precipitated into a blackilh 
 powder by the alkali. The vitriolic acid of 
 the copperas, having no longer a metallic bafis, 
 unites with the alkali, and forms a neutral fait, 
 called vitriolated tartar ; the fame as if it had 
 been made with the oil of vitriol and fait of 
 tartar. The theory of the above procefs is 
 eafily underftoodj but, it is probably not fo 
 with regard to the liquor required for other 
 
 colours. 
 
DYING WOOL. 87 
 
 tolours, as red and yellow. It will not be 
 allowed perhaps, that it is poffible to form 
 vitriolated tartar with a mixture of alum and 
 crude tartar boiled together. The theory is how- 
 ever the fame, and 1 cannot fee how it is pof- 
 fible to conceive it otherwife. Alum is a 
 fait in which vitriolic acid is united to art 
 earth: by adding to it an alkaline fait, this 
 earth will be inftantly precipitated, and the 
 vitriolated tartar immediately formed. Now,, 
 inftead of this alkaline fait, you boil alum 
 with crude tartar, which is the efiential fak 
 of wine, viz. . a fait compofed of the acid of 
 wine, which is much more volatile than vitri- 
 olic acid, and an oil, both concentrated in a fmall 
 portion of earth. This fait, as all Chymifts 
 know, becomes an alkali when deprived of the 
 acid. Hence, by boiling alum and crude tar- 
 tar together, befides the. imprelfion which 
 the fibres of the fluff to be dyed receive from 
 the firft of thefe falts, in fome degree corrofive> 
 the tartar is thereby purified ; and from being 
 dirty and impure becomes clean and tranfpa- 
 rent, by means of the earth, which is feparated 
 from the alum, and which has on: the tartar, 
 nearly the fame efi^edt as the earth of Merviels^ 
 ufed at Montpelier in the manufaftory of cream 
 of tartar. It may alfo happen, that the vitri- 
 olic acid of the alum, expelling a part of the 
 vegetable acid from the tartar, forms a vitriolated 
 tartar, as hard and tranfparent as the cryflals of 
 tartar. Letus admit on either fuppofition, the refult 
 will always be, a faline coating in the open 
 pores of the fibres of the wool j which as foon 
 
 G4 as 
 
€8 THEARTOF 
 
 as the fluff is taken out of the dye, and expofed 
 to the frefh air, cryftalifes, but it neither calcines 
 by the heat, nor difTolves in cold water i 
 which is all I mean to demonftrate by this un- 
 avoidable digreflion. 
 
 This theory applies alfo to the Indigo Vat, 
 where urine is added inftead of water^ and 
 aJunn and crude tartar in the place of vi- 
 triol and pot-afhes. With urine it cannot 
 give a permanent colour but when it is very hot, 
 and it is even neceflary to leave the wool im- 
 merfed in it for an hour or two, if you would 
 have it equally dyed. As foon as this Vat is 
 again cold, it gives no more colour. The 
 caufe of thefe fads would be difficult to dif- 
 cover in an opaque metal Vatj but in a glafs 
 veflcl may be eafily feen. I fuffered this 
 little experimental Vat to grow cold, and 
 all the green colour therein fufpended fell, by 
 degrees, to the bottom of the veflelj becaufe 
 then the tartar became cryftalizcd, and uniting 
 in heavier maflcs, fell to the bottom, and drew 
 along with it the colouring particles. When 
 I gave this liquor its former degree of heat, ' 
 ftirred it, and afterwards let it ftand a while, I 
 put into it a little bit of cloth, which, at the ex- 
 piration of an hour, was taken out as permanently 
 dyed as at the firft time. Hence when this Vat 
 is ufed, and that it is once in a proper (late, it 
 requires no more than to keep the tartar dif^ 
 folved, which muft be done by a pretty ftrong . 
 heat. The alkali of the urine makes it green j 
 the alum prepares the fibres of the wool ; and 
 the cryftals of tartar confirm the colour, by 
 
 cementing 
 
DYING WOOL. 89 
 
 cementing the colouring atoms dcpofited in the 
 pores. 
 
 There remains a difficulty with regard to 
 the Indigo Vat, in which neither vitriol, alum, 
 nor tartar, are introduced ; in which nothing 
 more is put than pearl-afli, in equal quantity 
 with the Indigo, and which is heated pretty 
 ftrongly, in order to dye the woolen fluffs. Be- 
 fore I can account for the foiidity of this colour, 
 which is equal to any of thofe Blue Vats with 
 the falts I have juft mentioned, it will be necef- 
 fary to examine the pearl-aih. It is well known that 
 pearl- alh is made from the lees of wine dryed, and 
 then calcined. It is therefore an alkali of the 
 fame nature of fait of tartar, but lefs pure, as 
 it proceeds from the heavieft parts of the lees of 
 wine, confequently the moft earthy, Befides 
 the alkali of the pearl-alh is never fo homogeneous 
 as the alkaline fait of tartar, well calcined, and 
 there is fcarce any unpurified pearl-alh* fuch as 
 is generally fold, from which you cannot obtain 
 a confiderable quantity of vitriolated tartar. 
 It is even probable, by an experiment which 
 1 have related elfewhere, that the whole may 
 at laft be converted into this neutral fait : the 
 fame may be faid with regard to pot-alh, and to 
 all the alkaline falts, which do not contain the 
 bafis of marine fait. The want of homoge- 
 niety is the reafon why pearl-alh is never intirely 
 dcliquefcent in the air, and befides, as we are 
 taught by experience, that there is in pearl-afli 
 a vitriolated tartar already formed, it is clear 
 that this Indigo Vat, which does not dye wool 
 well, tilj after the liquor has been heated fo hot 
 
 that 
 
90 THE ART OF 
 
 that you cannot bear your hand in it for any time, 
 without burning, witl diflblve the fnnall portion 
 of vitriolated tartar ; confequently this fait in- 
 troduces itfelf into the pores of the wool 
 in order to cleanfe and coat them, and will 
 coagulate as foon as the wool is taken out of 
 the liquor and expofed to the air. 
 
 I muft alfo explain, why the Indigo Vat is 
 green under the firll furface of the liquor j why 
 it is neceflary that the liquor ihould be green, 
 in order to make the blue colour durable, and 
 why {luffs, taken out of the Vat green, fhould 
 become blue immediately upon being expofed 
 to the air. Thefe circumftances being necef- 
 farily common to all Indigo Vats, whether hot 
 or cold, the fame explication will ferve for 
 all. 
 
 I ft. The froth or fkum which rifes on the 
 furface of the Indigo Vat, when in a proper 
 ftate for working, is blue, and underneath the 
 froth the Vat is green. Thefe two circum- 
 ftances prove that the Indigo is perfectly dif- 
 folved, and that the alkaline fait is united to 
 the colouring atoms of this ingredient, elfe 
 inftead of being green it would remain blue. 
 
 2d. The fame circumftances prove that the 
 Indigo itfelf contains a volatile alkali, which 
 being developed by the fixed alkali of the pot- 
 afti, or by the terreous alkali of the lime, eva- 
 porates in a very little time after this froth has 
 been expofed to the air. We may be convinced 
 of theexiftence of this volatile fpirit, by attend- 
 ing to the fmell of the Vat, during the time 
 of fermentation i for when heated or ftirred, 
 
 you 
 
DYING WOOL. 91 
 
 you will perceive a fmell, like that of tainted 
 meat, in the a6t of roafting, with fomcthing 
 pungent. 
 
 3d. The preparation of the Anilj in order to 
 feparate the dregs, is a continued fermentation, 
 even to putrefaflion. Now there is in all 
 putrified plants an urinous volatile alkali j whe- 
 ther this volatile alkali be produced by an inti- 
 mate union of the falts with a vegetable oil, or 
 whether it be owing to the prodigious multitude 
 of infedls, which, being attra6led by the fmel], 
 infeftthe fermenting plant in all parts: they live 
 on them, multiply and dye, confcquently leave 
 an infinite number of dead bodies; Hence 
 there is an animal fubftance added to the 
 vegetable, the fait of which animal fubftance 
 is always a volatile alkali. The fame urinous 
 quality alfo exifts in the Paftel, which is, in 
 the fame manner, prepared by fermentation 
 and putrefa6lion, as you will prefently perceive 
 in the abridged account of its preparation. 
 
 4thly and laftly. If Indigo or Paftel be dif- 
 tilled in a retort, whether alone, or, which is 
 ftill better, with the addition of a fixed alkali, 
 cither faline or terreous, you will thereby procure 
 a liquor, which, in all chymical experiments, 
 produces the efFecfl of the volatile fpirit of urine* 
 
 But it will probably be afked, why this vola- 
 latile alkali, exifting in the Indigo, does not 
 make it green, being equally diftributed in 
 every part? Why Indigo, diflblved in boil- 
 ing water, turns it blue, and not green ? I an- 
 fwer, that this volatile fpirit is fo concentrated 
 that it requires an extraneous body, more pow- 
 erful 
 
^2. THEARTOF 
 
 crful than that of boiling water, to difengagc 
 it from the particles by which it is enveloped i 
 That the folution of Indigo is never perfedly 
 accomplillied by water alone, be it ever lb hot; 
 that it is only difFufed, and not diiTolvedj that, 
 in fad, the decoflion of Indigo will blue the 
 fluffs i but that the Blue colour will be fo very 
 unequally applied, that other boiling water will 
 immediately wafh it out. Let me alfo beg leave 
 to anfwer by an example deduced from another 
 fubjeft. The fal-ammoniac, from which the 
 chymifts obtain their moft penetrating volatile 
 fpirit, has not, when diflolved and boiled in 
 water, this ftrong urinous fmell: it is therefore 
 neceflary to add either lime or a fixed alkaline 
 fait, in order to difengage the volatile fpirit. 
 Indigo, in the fame manner, requires fixed alka- 
 lies, cither faline or terreous, to be completely 
 decompofed, to render its volatile fpirit percep- 
 tible, and to reduce its colouring atoms to their 
 ■elementary teuity. 
 
 I now proceed to the fecond condition, viz, 
 that the liquor of the Indigo Vat Ihould necef- 
 farily be green, in order to produce a perma- 
 nent colour. For, as I have already faid, the 
 Indigo would not be quite difTolved unlefs afled 
 upon by an alkali, and, its folution not being 
 fo perfeft as it ought, would dye neither equally 
 nor folidly. As foon, therefore, as the alkaline 
 fait adls upon it, it becomes green; becaufe all 
 alkalies, when mixed with the juice or Blue 
 dye of a plant, or of any fiower whatfoever, 
 when equally diftributed through all its colour- 
 ing particles, become inftantJy green. But, if 
 
 by 
 
DYING WOOL. 93 
 
 by evaporation, thefe fame particles, either co- 
 loured or colouring, be colledled into hard com- 
 paa lumps, the alkali cannot change their 
 colour until it has penetrated, divided, and 
 reduced them to their original tenuity. This 
 is the cafe with refpcft to Indigo, which is, 
 properly fpeaking, the infpifiated juice of the A7. 
 With regard to the third and lafl: condition, 
 viz, that the (tuff, when taken out of the liquor, 
 fhould be green, and being expofed to the air 
 Ihould become blue, without which circumftance 
 it would not be permanent, it may be accounted 
 for in the following manner : it is taken out green 
 becaufe the Vat is green ; if it were not green, 
 the alkaline fait which had been put into the 
 Vat would not be equally diflributed, or rather 
 the Indigo would not be entirely diffolved. If 
 the alkali had not been equally diflributed, the 
 liquor of the Vat would not be equally faline. 
 The bottom would have all the fait, and the 
 top would be infipid: in which cafe, the fluff 
 immerfed would neither be prepared to receive 
 or retain the colour. But when, at the expira- 
 tion of a quarter of an hour, it is taken out 
 green, it is then evident that thejiquor is equally 
 faline, and equally impregnated with the colour- 
 ing atoms. It alfo proves that the alkaline fait 
 was capable of penetrating into the pores of 
 the fibres of the ftuff, and of enlarging them, 
 or, as I have already remarked, of forming new 
 ones. It is therefore obvious that an alkaline 
 fait will produce this effed on woolen fluffs, 
 if it be remembered that an alkaline lixivium, 
 
 when very acrid, will burn and confume a lock 
 
 of 
 
94 THEARTOF 
 
 of wool, or a bit of feather, alinoft inflantly. Of 
 this the operation of dying, csWtdi fonte de bourrcy 
 or a folution of cows hair, is another proof. The 
 hair employed for this purpofe is boiled in 
 a folution of pot-afh, with urine, in which folu- 
 tion it is fo perfedlly diflblved, that not the leaft 
 fibre remains. Therefore if a lixivium, ex- 
 tremely acrid, will deftroy the wool, a lixivium 
 containing no more alkaline fait than what is 
 fufficient merely to make it a6t on the wool, 
 without deftroying it, will prepare its pores to 
 receive and preferve the colouring atoms of this 
 ingredient, which is the objed of this diflertation. 
 
 The fluff is opened, after being taken out of 
 the Vat, and wrung or fqueezed; it then 
 becomes Blue. What is done by opening it ? 
 It is cooled. If it be the volatile alkali that is 
 extricated from the Indigo which has given it 
 this green colour, it evaporates, and the Blue 
 appears. If a fixed alkali occadons this green, 
 befides that the greateft part of it is difcharged 
 by the ftrong expreflion of the ftuff, what re- 
 mains can no longer a6l on the colouring par- 
 ticles; becaufe the minute atom of the vitri- 
 olated tartar, containing a colouring atom, 
 ftill more minute, cryftalifes as foon as 
 expofed to the cold air; and embracing thi$ 
 colouring atom, by means of the elafticity of 
 the fides of the pores, entirely prefles out all 
 that could poffibly remain of the alkali, which 
 does not cryftalize like a mineral fait. 
 
 This Blue is enlivened, that is to fay, ren- 
 dered more bright and beautiful, by immerfing 
 the ftuff, which had been juft dyed, in hot 
 
 water. 
 
DYING WOOL. 95 
 
 water, becaufe then the colouring atoms, which 
 adhered to the fibres of the wool only fuper- 
 ficially, are carried off. Soap is ufcd to try the 
 folidity of the Blue dye, wliich it refifts, becaufe 
 the foap, (of which only a fmall quantity is dif- 
 folved in a large proportion of water, and the 
 pattern remaining in it, for five minutes only, the 
 time required) being an alkali, mitigated by an 
 oil, cannot poflibly aft upon a neutral fait. If 
 it difcharges any part of the colour, the parti- 
 cles difcharged muft have adhered but fu- 
 perficially. Befides the fmall faline cryftals, 
 wedged into the pores, cannot be diffolved in 
 fuch a manner as to quit them with the colouring 
 atom. 
 
 In this dilTertation, I have exhibited an effay 
 of my method of treating the art of dying, 
 different from what has been hitherto pradlifed. 
 Philofophers, to whom it is fubmitted, would 
 not be fatisfyed with a fimple narrative of expe- 
 riments, were I not at the fame time to pre- 
 fent them with a theory ®f their fuccefs. I fhall 
 obferve the fame method with regard to the 
 Reds and Yellows, which are alfo fimple colours j 
 becaufe it is abfolutely neceffary to undeftand 
 them, before we proceed to compound colours; 
 as the laft are colours generally applied one upon 
 the other, and feldom mixed together in the fame 
 Vat. Hence, by being informed of what procures 
 the tenacity of a fimple colour, we are enabled 
 to judge more eafily, whether it be poffible for 
 the atoms of the fecond colour to poffefs 
 the vacant fpaces between thofe of the firft. 
 On this principle I have formed my arrangement 
 
 5 of 
 
96 THEARTOF 
 
 of the different colours to be applied to the fame 
 ftuff; becaufe I find it difficult to conceive even 
 a poflibility that the colouring atoms, being 
 depofited one upon another, Ihould thereby 
 form a kind of pyramid, each prefer ving its 
 colour, fo that, from a mixture of the whole, 
 there Ihould refult a compound colour, appear- 
 ing neverthelefs uniform, or rather homogene- 
 ous. To believe this, we muft necefiarily fup- 
 pofe, what it would be very difficult to demon- 
 ftrate, that thefe atoms are tranfparent. Befides, 
 that a yellow atom fhould be immediately applied 
 on a blue atom, already enclofcd within the 
 pore of the fibres of the fluff, in order to be 
 permanently fixed, it is necelTary that their 
 parts in conta6t fhould be extremely polilhed. 
 That a red atom fhould afterwards be depofited 
 on a yellow, we muft fuppofe new planes, no 
 lefs accurate, and equally polillied, than the firft. 
 Imagination can hardly give credit to all thefe 
 fuppofitions ; but it appears to me, much more 
 probable, that the firft colour occupied only the 
 pores that were left open by the firft preparation of 
 the fibres of the ftuffj thatclofe to the pores already 
 filled there remains fpaces, not occupied, where 
 new pores may be opened for the reception of the 
 new atoms of a fecond colour, by the afTiftancc 
 of a fecond preparation. 
 
 What I have faid, in order to explain the 
 method of condu6i:ing an Indigo Vat, will alfo 
 ferve to fhew the action of the Paftel Vat on 
 woolens and ftuffs: we need only fuppofe that 
 the Paftel Vat naturally poffcfTes falts nearly 
 
 of 
 
DYING WOOL. 97 
 
 of the fame nature with thofe which are added 
 to the Indigo Vat. 
 
 By the difcription which I have given of each 
 of thefe Vats, it appears that the Paftel Vat is 
 infinitely more difficult to condudl than the other. 
 In my opinion, it may be rationally fuppofed, 
 that all thefe difficulties might be removed by 
 preparing the Ifatis in France, in the fame man- 
 ner as the Anil is prepared in the Weft-Indies : 
 we will therefore compare thefe two preparations. 
 I Ihall tranfcribe the following quotation from 
 the memoires of Mr. Adftruc, on the natural 
 hiftory of Languedoc. Paris Cavalier, 1737, 
 in4to. p. 330 and 331. 
 
 ■ " The colours obtained from the Paftel, ac- 
 cording to the Dyers, are faint and weak. While 
 thofe obtained from the Indigo are bright and 
 lively. It muft indeed be confefled, that this 
 opinion is conformable to reafon. Iridio-o is a 
 fine fubtle powder, confequently capable of pe- 
 netrating the ftuffs, and thereby giving them 
 i bright colour. Paftel, on the contrary, is a 
 thick pafte, clogged With a quantity of earthy 
 particles, by which the aftion and riiotion of 
 the fubtle particles are impeded and, prevented 
 from being efficacious. 
 
 " The method of remedying this evil, is to 
 prepare the Paftel in the fame manner as the 
 Indigo, by which means you would give the 
 colours, obtained from the Paftel, a brightnefs 
 and vivacity equal to thofe obtained from the 
 Indigo, without in the leaft diminiftiing the 
 excellence and folidity which particularly recom- 
 
 H mends 
 
^ , TriE Art 6r 
 
 mends thofe colours, in which the Paftel I's 
 concerned. 
 
 "I have already, continues Mr. Adftruc, made 
 experiments, of what I now propofe, in minia- 
 ture, and thefe experiments have been fuccefsful, 
 not only in the preparation of the powder of 
 the Paftel, but alfo in the ufe of this powder 
 for dying. It depends upon thofe entrufted with 
 the public weal, to caufe experiments of the 
 fame nature to be made upon a larger fcalej 
 if attended with the fuccefs to be expeded, 
 it will be incumbent on them to encourage 
 the cultivators of the Paftel to adopt this new 
 method of preparation, and to regulate whatever 
 encouragement they may think proper to give 
 at the commencement, in fuch a manner as to 
 fupport the expenccs incurred by this new prac- 
 tice, till they are themfelves determined by the 
 advantages refulting from it." 
 
 I was ignorant that Mr. Adftruc was of my 
 opinion when I firft propofed to try the Ame- 
 rican method in Languedocj but having fince 
 read his memoire, I was delighted to find that 
 my ideas coincided with the opinion of this great 
 man : as it fucceeded in miniature, it is pro- 
 bable that a larger undertaking would be attended 
 \yith equal fuccefs. 
 
 With regard to the manufa6tory of the Paftel, 
 I ftiall quote Mr. A.dftruc, whofe account will not, 
 ^ think, be unacceptable in this work. 
 
 " The peafants of Albigeoife are accuftomed 
 to diftinguiih two different feeds of Paftel, the 
 oneViolet, and the otherYellow. They prefer the 
 Tiolet;! becaufe the leaves are fmooth and even, 
 
 whereas 
 
bVlNGWOOL. 99 
 
 Vhereas the leaves of the other are hairy, and 
 therefore lefs valuable, as the duft and fand ad- 
 heres to them. This Paftel is called Pajielbourg^ or 
 Bourdaigne. 
 
 '' The Paftel fhootsout five or fix leaves, which, 
 xvhile greeny are upright. They are about a 
 foot long, and fix inches broad. They begin 
 to ripen near Midfumnner : when ripe, they bend 
 downwards and turn yellow. They are then 
 cut, &c. The ground fliould be afterwards 
 hoed, which fiiould be repeated after every 
 cutting. 
 
 *' It fiiould be cut a fecond tinaein July, if the 
 iveather has been rainy. Wet or dry weather 
 either accelerate or retard it for eight days. At 
 the latter end of Auguft it fliould be reaped 
 again. They make a fourth cutting the latter 
 end of September, and about a week after All 
 Saints they cut for the laft time. This interval 
 being longer, it has more fi:rength than the 
 others t at this crop they cut the neck of the 
 plant, viz. the top of the root, whence the leaves 
 proceed. The Paftel produced from this cutting 
 is bad, and therefore prohibited by the regula- 
 tions. 
 
 " The Paftel is never reaped in wet or foggy 
 -weather. It is neceflary that the weather be very 
 fine, and the leaves dry. 
 
 " At each crop the leaves are immediately con- 
 veyed to the mill, and ground to a fine f>afte. 
 This fhould be done immediately, becaufe the 
 leaves, when heaped together, foon ferment 
 .and rot, with an infupportable ftench. Thefe 
 mills are fomething like rape mills. They 
 H 2 confill 
 
100 THE ART OF 
 
 confift of a mill ftone, fixed on its edge, which 
 goes round a perpendicular pivot, in a pretty- 
 deep circular grove, in which the Paftel to be 
 ground is depofited. Mr. Adftruc has given an 
 engraving of this machine. 
 
 " When the leaves are by this means reduced 
 to a fine pafle, it is piled up in the galleries of 
 the mill, or in the open air. When the paftc 
 has been prefled with the feet and hands, it 
 fhould be beaten, and fmoothed on the furface 
 with a fhovel. This is called Paftel in piles. 
 
 *^ The outfide forms a cruft, which becomes 
 blackifh. When it begins to crack, it fhould 
 be carefully fmoothed again, otherwife the air 
 gets in, and produces little worms in the cre- 
 vices by which the Paftel is fpoiled. 
 
 " The heaps are opened at the expiration of 
 fifteen days, broke with the hands, and mixed 
 together, cruft and all j but the cruft is fome- 
 times fo hard that it is neceflary to break it with 
 a club. 
 
 " The pafte is afterwards made into little round 
 balls. In forming thefe balls, they fliould be 
 well fqueezed, and afterwards given to another 
 perfon, by whom they are molded into a wooden 
 mold, again fqueezed and made ovali finally, 
 they are given to a third perfon, who finiflie* 
 them in a fmaller mold. 
 
 " Thefe balls are laid upon hurdles, and ex- 
 pofed to the fun, if the weather be fine j but 
 if not, they are depofited over the mill. The 
 Paftel, expofed for fome hours to the fun, grows 
 black at the outfide, while that which is dryed 
 in the fhade, is generally yellow, particularly if 
 
 the 
 
DYING WOOL. lot 
 
 die weather be rainy. The firft is preferred by 
 the merchants; it is nevertlielefs aflerted that 
 there is not much difference: it even frequently 
 happens that the Paftel is all yellow, becaufe 
 the peafants, by whom it is made, generally work 
 at it in rainy weather, when they can do nothing 
 elfe. 
 
 " The balls in fummer are generally dried 
 in about fifteen or twenty days; but in autumn, 
 the Paftel of the latter crop is a long while 
 drying. It dries much fafter with a fouth-eaft: 
 wind. 
 
 " The beft balls are diftinguiihed from the- 
 others by being, when broken, of a violet 
 colour at the infide j the bad ones, on the con- 
 trary, have a bad fmell, and an earthy colour; 
 the confequence of having been cut in rainy 
 "weather when the leaves were covered with' 
 earth. You may alfo judge of their goodnefs by 
 their weight, as the fubftance, not being well 
 fqueezed, evaporates and becomes rotten, con- 
 fequently lighter. 
 
 " The powder of Paftel is made of thefc 
 balls. The operation is performed in the follow- 
 ing manner, and requires, at leaft, a hundred 
 thoufand balls : you fhould have a detached 
 barn, and a magazine, greater or lefs, accord- 
 ing to the quantity of the Paftel. This maga- 
 zine fhould be on a floor paved with bricks, 
 ;jnd lined with the fame four or five feet high. 
 It were advifablc to have the outfide walls ftone, 
 of the fame height. 
 
 " It is however frequently thought fufficient 
 ^0 h^ve them plaiftered at the infide with earth ; 
 
 H 3 bm; 
 
lot THEARTOF 
 
 but this plaifter comes off and mixes with the 
 Paftel, which is thereby impaired and fpoilt. 
 The balls are brought into this magazine, where 
 they are broken into grols powder, with wooden 
 mallets. The powder is then heaped, near the 
 middle of the magazine, about four feet high, 
 leaving a fpace for the conveniency of going 
 round it : it is wet with water, pond water is 
 the beft provided it be clear. [7 fee no reafon 
 why pond water ^ however clear ^ Jhould be -preferred 
 to clear river water, which would be much morejafe, 
 being exempt from the inconveniences neceffarily attend- 
 ing putrid water ^ fuch as a confiant bad fmell, 
 being muddy, and containing a quantity of v.felefs 
 earth, which mufi render the dying with this drug 
 very unequal.'] The Paftel thus moiftened, fer- 
 ments, grows hot, fumes, and emits a very 
 offenfive fmell. 
 
 " The Paftel is ftirred every day for twelve 
 days, fnoveling it from one fide of the magazine 
 to the other, and wetting it every day during 
 that time, after which it is wet no more: it is 
 then fufficient to ftir it only every two days, and 
 afterwards every three, four, and then five days. 
 Finally, it is heaped in the middle of the maga- 
 zine, and from time to time vifited, in order 
 to give it air in cafe it Ihculd heat. This is 
 
 ■ the powder of Paftel as prepared for the Dyers." 
 
 Mr. Adftruc> in order to prove that Upper 
 X-.anguedoc was enriched by the Paftel trade, 
 quotes the following pafi^age from a book enti- 
 tled, Le Marchand: " It was formerly the cuf- 
 tom to tranfport every year into Touloufe 
 and Bourdeaux, by the river Garonne, a hun- 
 dred 
 
DYING WOOL. 103 
 
 dred thoufand bales of Paftel, which, in that 
 country, fold for at lead fifteen livres a bale. 
 This, amounting to one million five hundred 
 thoufand livres, produced abundance of money 
 and riches in that country/' So fays Caftel, 
 author of the book above cited, in the year 1633, 
 Memoir es de le Hijioire dii Languedocj page 4 9. 
 
 The comparifon of the two methods of pre- 
 paring the Paftel and Indigo will be fuffici- 
 ent to any intelligent perfon, commilTioned to 
 try the pofTibiiity of producing an extraft 
 from the Jfaiis of Languedoc, refembling that 
 of the Jjiil. We muft not expedt this from 
 cither the Dyer or manufadlurcr. They will at 
 once condemn the projeft, becaufe newj and 
 I queftion much whether they would be capa- 
 ble of properly conducing a fermentation, I 
 could wifh to have this experiment tried on a 
 Jarge fcale, fo as to have at leaft fifty pounds of 
 this extraft, that feveral Vats may be fet in cafe 
 the firft Ihould fail. The perfon chofen for this 
 experiment fhould be very accurate in his de- 
 fcription of every circumftance relative to the 
 operation. He would perhaps fail in the leaves 
 that were firft reaped, becaufe in June they have 
 not fufficient heat, but, in the month of Auguft, 
 he would in all probability fucceed. 
 
 By letters which I received from Mr. Roman 
 the younger, engineer -general at Dominica, 
 I learn, that during the hotteft feafon in the 
 ifland of Martinico, the thermometer rifes from 
 thirty to thirty-fix degrees of Mr. Raumur's 
 fcale. That in Languedoc it rofe from twenty- 
 feven to thirty- two and thirty- three^ the heat 
 
 H 4 ci 
 
,04 THEARTOF 
 
 of the human bodyj a heat fufficient to produce 
 the fermentation of the Paftel leaves, which 
 fhould be fleeped and macerated in the fame 
 manner as the Anilj in a large Vat built of flone. 
 The fermentation will perhaps require no more 
 than thirty or forty hours. It may be accele- 
 rated by throwing three or four cauldrons of 
 warm water into the Vat. 
 
 The perfon entrufted with this experiment 
 Ihould procure leaves as little withered as pofiible, 
 which perhaps ought to be flightly bruifed. For 
 the firft experiments he fhould have Vats con- 
 ftrufled of mafonry, a third of the fize of thofe 
 the dimenfions of which were given by P. 
 Labat. But the v/hole of the procefs being 
 perfeftly defcribed in his memoires, there remains 
 only to follow his inftruflions. If this experi- 
 ment fhould fucceed, it is probable that there 
 are many other plants, of the fame nature of 
 the J[fc:tisy which would produce the fame 
 extrad. The deep green of many plants is pro- 
 bably compofed of yellow, and a large pro- 
 portion of blue particles. If the yellow particles 
 be deltroyed by fermentation, the blue will flill 
 remain. This idea is not perhaps abfolutely 
 fhimerical, nor would it be difficult to prove 
 that fome utility may be drawn from it. 
 
 C H A P^ 
 
PYING WOOL. 105 
 
 CHAP. XI, 
 Of Red, 
 
 RED, as I have already mentioned, is ac- 
 knowledged by the Dyers as one of the 
 five prinnitive colours. There are in the great 
 ^ye, four different forts of Redsj which are 
 the bafis of alj the feft. There are, firfl. Scarlet 
 in Grain, formerly called French Scarlet, now 
 Venetian Scarlet. Secondly, the Scarlet at 
 prefent in ufe, or Fire Colour Scarlet, formerly 
 Dutch Scarlet, and at prefent univerfally known 
 by the name of Gohlin Scarlet, Thirdly, Crim- 
 Jon I and fourthly. Madder Red. There are 
 alfo half Scarlet Sy and half Crimfom; but thefe 
 are mixtures of other Reds, and therefore 
 Ihould not be confidered as particular colours. 
 The Red, or Nacaret de Boiirre, was formerly 
 allowed to be of the good dyej but, on ac- 
 count of its want of folidity, it was baniflied 
 by the new regulations. It is natural to fup- 
 pofe, that each of thefe different Reds have 
 their particular fliades, but it does not there- 
 fore follow, that they fhould not be confidered 
 as of different clalfes, becaufe the Ihades of 
 each are perfectly diflinft. 
 
 Reds are, in one particular, efTentially dif- 
 ferent from blues, as I have obferved in the 
 preceding chapter ; becaufe Reds require a pre- 
 vious preparation. This preparation, as I have 
 before mentioned, is called the bouillon. It is 
 generally compofed of acids, as four water, 
 
 • alum. 
 
io6 THE ART OF 
 
 alum, tartar, aqua-fortisj aqua-regis, &:c. Thcfc 
 preparations are added in different quantities, 
 according to the fhade and colour required. 
 Nut-galls are alfo frequently uied, and fome- 
 times alkaline falts. This I fhall explain in 
 the fequel, when defcribing the manner of work* 
 ing each of thefe colours. 
 
 CHAP, XIL 
 
 Of Scarlet in Grainy or Venetian Scarlet, 
 
 THIS colour is called Scarlet in Grain, 
 becaufe d)'«d with kernr.es, long fup- 
 pofed to be the feed of the tree on which 
 it was found. It was formerly called French 
 Scarlet, becaufe, a^ fome people imagine, it 
 was found in France j but it is at prefent 
 known by the name of Venetian Scarlet, being 
 very much ufcd in that country. It has indee4 
 lels fire, and is darker than the fcarlets at pre- 
 fent in failiionj but it has the advantage of 
 being more permanent, and is not fo eafily 
 fpotted. 
 
 The kermes of which it is made is a gall* 
 infect,' which grows, lives, and multiplies on 
 the Ilex acculeala cocci glandifera^ C. B. P. It 
 it is found in the Garrigues in the environs of 
 Vauvert, of Vandemian, and of Narbonne; but 
 in Spain, on the coaft of Alicant, and Va- 
 lencia, in much greater quantities. As foon 
 as it is gathered every year, the peafants of 
 Languedoc. bring it to Montpelier and Nar- 
 bonne^ 
 
D-YING WOOL. 107 
 
 bonne, where they fell it. Thofe who buy It 
 for exportation, fpread it on tiles, and in order 
 to kill the infed which it contains, and which 
 produces a red powder, they fprinkle it with 
 vinegar. This powder is firft dryed, and then 
 feparated from the (hell by means of a fieve. 
 The whole is made into large bales, and in 
 the centre of eachof thefe bales, they put a certain 
 proportion of the red powder in a leather bag, 
 fo that every purchafer may have a part. Thefe 
 bales are generally fent to Marfeilles, from 
 whence they are conveyed to the Levant, par- 
 ticularly to Algiers and Tunis, where this in-^ 
 gredient is very much ufed. 
 
 The red drapery of the figures in the 
 ancient tapeftry of Bruxelles, and other manu- 
 fafturing parts of Flanders, is dyed with iti and 
 the colour, though two hundred years old, 
 has fcarce loft any of its vivacity. This in- 
 gredient is fcarce ever employed but for the 
 wcrfted intended for tapeftry, and is ufed in the 
 following manner. 
 
 The wool fhould be firft drenched, for 
 which purpofe you put half a buftiel of bran 
 into a copper, with a quantity of water fuf- 
 ficient for twenty pounds of wool, which to 
 the beft of my knowledge is the ufual batch 
 for one dying. In this liquor it fhould boil 
 for half an hour, ftirring it from time to time j 
 after which it is taken out and drained. I 
 fliall obferve, once for all, that, when you 
 dye worfted, you put a rod through each 
 ikein, which commonly weighs about a pound, 
 find which Ihould be kept on the rod during 
 
 the 
 
io8 THE ART OF 
 
 the whole procefs, by which means the llcein is 
 prevented from tangling. It is alfo convenient 
 for turning the fkein, in order to dip each 
 part, that the whole may be equally coloured ; 
 for which purpofe, you raife it about half 
 way out of the liquor, and holding the rod 
 with one hand, you pull the fkein with the 
 other fo as to let the part, which before was 
 next the rod, fall into the liquor. If the worfted 
 fhould be too hot for the fingers, it may be 
 done by means of another rod. The equality 
 of the colour depends fo entirely upon the fre- 
 quency of this manoeuvre, that it cannot be 
 too ftrenuoufly urged. In order to drain them^ 
 you reft the ends of the rods, juft mentioned, 
 on two poles 5 which, as I have already faid, (hould 
 be fixed in the wall over the copper. 
 
 While the worfted is draining, after being 
 thus drenched, you prepare a frefli liquor, viz, 
 by throwing out what remained in the copper, 
 and repleniftiing with frefti waterj to this you 
 add about a fifth part four water, four pounds of 
 Roman alum, grofsly pounded, and two pounds 
 of red tartar. As foon as it boils, the worfted 
 on the rods fhould be immerfed for two hours, 
 almoft continually moving the rods, one after 
 another, as I have before diredbed. 
 
 It is neceflary to obferve, that ^fter the alum 
 is put in, when the liquor is ready to boil, 
 it will fometimes rife fuddenly out of the 
 copper, if you do not mind to check the boil- 
 ing by throwing in cold water. If, when it 
 is ready to boil, you put in the cold worfted 
 quickly, it will have the fame effeft. It is 
 
 alfo 
 
DYING WOOL. rsf 
 
 fiflfo proper to obferve, that when dyers work In the 
 great they fliould havetheir legs bare, that the hot 
 liquor, may not reft in the ftockings. When 
 the quantity of tartar is rather confiderable, 
 as in the prefent operation, the liquor does 
 not rife fo high ; but when there is nothing 
 befides the alum, it fometimes, when it begins 
 to boil, half of the liquor boils over, unlefs 
 prevented by the above precautions. 
 
 When the worfted has boiled in this liquor 
 for two hours, drained, lightly fqueezed, and 
 put into a linen bag, it is depofited in a cool 
 place for five or fix days, and fometimes 
 longer ; this is called leaving the worjied in 
 the preparation. This delay helps it to pene- 
 trate, and increafes the adion of the faltsj 
 for, as a part of the liquor conftantly evaporates, 
 it is clear that what remains, being more im- 
 pregnated with the faline particles, becomes 
 more adlive, that is to fay, provided there 
 remains a fufficient degree of moilture i for the 
 falts being once cryftalized and dry, their power 
 is deftroyed. 
 
 I am much more explicit concerning this 
 preparation^ and the manner of making it, than 
 I lliall be hereafter; becaufe for many colours 
 the quantities are pretty nearly the fame. 
 Hence I fhall content myfelf in future with 
 mentioning it flightly, obferving only the 
 different quantities of alum, tartar, four water, 
 or other ingredients. 
 
 When the worfteds have remained in this 
 ftate for five or fix days, they are then in a proper 
 
 condition 
 
ii6 THE ART OP 
 
 condition for being dyed. A frefh Ilquof is 
 then prepared, according to the quantity of 
 the worfted, and when it grows warm> if you 
 want a full fcarlet, you throw into it twelve 
 ounces of pounded kermcs to every pound 
 of worfted J but, if the kermes be ftale, it will 
 require pound for pound. When the liquor 
 begins to boil, the worfted fhould be put in, 
 being ftill moift; but, if it has been fuffered to 
 grow dry after boiling, it fhould be put into 
 warm water, and well drained. 
 
 Before you put the wool into the copper 
 with the kermes, it were advifable to throw in 
 a fmallhandful of refufewool,which, being boiled 
 for a moment, imbibes a part of the black* 
 nefs and drofs of the kermes, fo that the wool, 
 afterwards dyed, takes a much more beautiful 
 colour. You now dip the flceins on the rods 
 in the fame manner as in the preparation, 
 continually ftirring them, and giving them 
 air, from time to time, one after another. 
 In this manner they fhould be kept boiling 
 for a full hour. They are then wafhed and 
 drained. 
 
 If you would reap any advantage from the 
 dye ftill remaining in the liquor, you may 
 dip a little prepared wool, which will take a 
 colour in proportion to the goodnefs of the 
 kermes, and to the quantity which had been 
 put into the copper. 
 
 If you mean to dye a number of lliades, one 
 darker than another, you require much lefs of 
 th^ kermes J feven or eight pounds being fuf- 
 
 ficient 
 
D Y I N G W O O L. Til 
 
 ficlent for twenty pounds of prepared wool. You 
 then dip the quantity of worfted intended 
 for the lighted fhade, leaving it in the copper 
 no longer than neceffary, in order to turn it, 
 that it may imbibe the colour equally. It is 
 then raifcd upon the pegs, and the next fhade 
 immediately put in, and fufFered to remain for 
 a longer time. You proceed in this manner 
 to the laft Ihade, which fhould alfo remain till 
 it has acquired the colour you defire. 
 
 You begin with the lighteft colour, becaufe 
 if the wool was fuffered to renaain in the cop- 
 per longer than neceffary, it would be no lofs, 
 provided you referve this batch for the darker 
 Ihade: whereas by beginning with the darkeft 
 you would have no remedy in cafe of any acci- 
 dental fl-iip in the light Ihades. The fame pre- 
 caution is neceffary in regular fhades of all 
 colours; but of the colour in queftion thefe 
 arc fcldom made ; becaufe the dark fhades arc 
 not much in ufe: and as the operation for 
 all colours is the fame alike, what I have 
 faid refpedling this will anfwer for all the 
 reft. 
 
 When the wool has been dyed in this manner, 
 and before it is carried to the river, you may 
 fwill it in warm water, with a fmall quantity of 
 foap, well diffolved j this adds a brightnefs to the 
 colour; but, at the fame time, gives it a little 
 of the ro/e, that is to fay, a crimfon tinft. As 
 I fhall in the fequel of this treatife, efpecially 
 when fpeaking of reds, frequently make ufe of 
 the terms ro/er or crimfoned, and avlvfr, or 
 
 brightened. 
 
Ill THEARTOF 
 
 brightened, it is proper to explain what I mean 
 by thefe words. 
 
 Rofer, crimfoned, as I have juil faidj is to give 
 to red a crimfon tindti that is, rather a violet caft; 
 Soap and alkaline falts, fuch as lixivium of 
 pot-afli, lime, &c. crimfons the reds in fuch 
 a manner, that thus you may give them, when 
 too bright, what fhade you pleafe. 
 
 Avivery to brighten, is quite a different pro- 
 cefs. It is effefted by means of acids^ fuch 
 as red and white tartar, cream of tartar, vine- 
 gar, lemon juice, or aqua-forcis. More qr lel^ 
 of thefe acids are ufed, according as you Would 
 have the colour more or lefs brightened. If, for 
 example, in the prefent cafe, you would give 
 Scarlet in Grain a flame colour, or make it more 
 like common fcarlet, it requires only to thro\^ 
 into the liquor, after the kermes have boiled, 
 a little of the fcarlet compofition which fhall be 
 mentioned hereafter. The dark colour of the 
 liquor is immediately brighted by the acid, and 
 becomes more lively: the wool dyed in it has 
 more of the orange) but, at the fame time, is 
 more liable to fpot. The caufe of which will 
 be feen in the chapter on the Scarlet of Gob- 
 lins. 
 
 In order to render this colour more bright 
 and beautiful than common, I have tryed a 
 great number of experiments, but could not 
 Tobtain a red equal to that produced by co- 
 chineal. Of all the liquors for the prepa- 
 ration of wool, that which fucceeded the beft 
 was made according to the proportions I have 
 mentioned. By changing the natural tinge of 
 
 the 
 
DYING WOOL. 113 
 
 the kermes, by various kinds of ingredients, 
 metallic folutions, &c. various colours may be 
 obtained, which I fliall prefently mention. 
 
 One word only concerning the dying of fluffs 
 the abovementioned red; for it is impoffible 
 to prefcribe any proportions for an ell of fluff, 
 confidering the infinitive variety of their breadth, 
 and even of their thicknefs, and the quantity 
 of wool in their fabrication; experience is the 
 beft guide. NeVerthelefs, if you chufe to be 
 exafl, the furefl way is to weigh the flufr to be 
 dyed, and to diminiHi about one quarter of the 
 colouring ingredients prefcribed for worfleds ; 
 becaUfe the fluffs take internally lefs colour, 
 as their texture, being d^cr, prevents it from 
 penetrating; whereas the, worfled or woolen 
 fleece takes the colour iniernally, as eafily as 
 on the exterior furface. | 
 
 The alum and tartar, ufcm in the preparation for 
 fluffs, fho^id ^9 be diminifhed in the fame pro- 
 portion; neitlierV it neceffary to let the fluffs 
 remain in the pT*£par^ion as long as the worfted : 
 They may be dyede^i^ the day after they had 
 been boiled. 
 
 Woolen fleece dyed in\the red of kermes, 
 and to be afterwards incor^rated in mixed 
 cloth, or for the manufactory of thick cloths, 
 will have a much finer effe(5l than if dyed with 
 madder. I fliall fpeak of this in the defcription 
 of colours in which kermes are ufed, or, at leafl, 
 where it ought to be preferred to madder, 
 which is nothing like fo beautiful, but which 
 being much cheaper, is almofl univerfally ufed. 
 
 I ' A mixture 
 
11+ THE ART OF 
 
 A mixture of half kermes, and half madder, 
 is called Scarlet in half-grain. This mixture 
 gives a colour extremely permanent ; but not fo 
 lively, inclining rather to a blood colour. It is 
 prepared and worked precifely in the fame 
 manner as if kermes alone were ufed ; only 
 that in the liquor they put but half this grain, 
 the other half is fupplied by miadder. This is 
 confequently much cheaper, and it frequently 
 happens that the dyers, who make it, render it 
 much lefs beautiful than it might be, by di- 
 minifl^ing the quantity of the kermes and in- 
 creafing that of the madder. 
 
 From the tryals made on Scarlet in Grain, 
 or Scarlet of kermes, both bv exoofinor it to 
 the fun, and by various liquors, it is proved 
 that there does not exift a better, nor a more 
 lading colour. It may for folidity be com- 
 pared to the blues already mentioned. Never- 
 thelefs, the kermes is fcarce ever ufed except 
 at Venice i for fmce the fiery fcarlets are be- 
 come the tafte, this colour is almoft intireiy 
 exploded. It has, notwithftanding, many advan- 
 tages over the other, as it neither blackens nor 
 fpots, {o that fliould the ftuff get greafed, the 
 fpot may be taken out without impairing the 
 colour. Neverthelefs kermes is fo little known 
 to the dyers, that when I wanted a certain quan- 
 tity for the above experiments, I was obliged to 
 have it frorn Languedoc i the merchants of 
 Paris encumber themfelves witii no more tiian 
 what they vend for the ufe of medicine. 
 
 When a dyer is obliged to dye a piece of cloth 
 of the colour called Scarlet in Grain, as he 
 
 neither 
 
DYING WOOL. 115 
 
 neither knows what kermes are, nor how to ufe 
 them, he does it with Cochineal; as I fliall ex- 
 plain in the following chapter. This is much 
 more expenfive, and lefs permanent, than that 
 obtained from the Kennes. Worfted, defigned 
 for tapeftry, is coloured in the fame manner; 
 but as this colour is rather difficult to hit with 
 the cochineal, they frequently mix it with brafil 
 wood J an ingredient hitherto confidered as 
 falfe, and permitted only in colours not in grain. 
 Thefe colours confequently fade in a very fhorc 
 time, and though they may at firft appear ever 
 fo lively, they frequently lofe all their brightncfs 
 in lefs than a year. It were therefore much to 
 be wifhed, that the ufe of kermes were re-efla- 
 bliflied. Any dyer, by adopting its ufe, would 
 certainly obtain many colours with more eafe 
 and lefs expence. Befides, his colours being 
 much better, and more durable, he would in 
 all probability eflablifh a much graater repu- 
 tation. I have with the kermes made fifty 
 experiments, which may be ufeful in pra6lice; 
 but (hall mention thofe only which produced the 
 mod remarkable colours. From kermes with 
 cream of tartar, without alum, and with as much 
 of the compofition as is ufed for cochineal fear- 
 let, you obtain in a fingle Vat a very bright 
 cinnamon colour; for this mixture containing 
 acids only, the red particles of the kermes are 
 fo attenuated as to be almoft invifible. But were 
 this cinnamon to be dipped in a folution of 
 Roman alum, the red would in part re-appear, 
 whether, becaufe the addition of the alum had 
 expelled a part of the acid of the com- 
 
 I 2 pofition. 
 
fi6 THEARTOF 
 
 pofition, or whether the earth of the alum, 
 being precipitated by the aftringency of the 
 kermes, whofe effeft is fimilar to that of galls, 
 re-unites the red particles, before difperfed, 
 and with them adheres to the wool. Be 
 it as it may, the red by this naeans recovered 
 is not fine. 
 
 With cream of tartar, the compofition for 
 Scarlet, and a greater quantity of alum than 
 tartar, kermes gives a lilac colour, varying 
 according to the proportion of thefe ingre- 
 dients. 
 
 If inftead of alum and tartar you fubftitutc 
 vitriolated tartar, which is a hard fait pro- 
 duced by a mixture of the acid of vitriol, and 
 a fixed alkali, fuch as oil of tartar, and lixivium 
 of pot-afb, &c. and having the kermes boiled 
 in the folution of a fmall quantity of this fait, 
 the ftuff be immerfed, and fufi^ered to boil for 
 one hour, you obtain an agat grey colour, 
 tolerably fine, with a reddifh caftj for the acid 
 of the compofition having too much divided 
 the red of the kermes, and the vitriolated 
 tartar not containing the earth of alum, it 
 could not in precipitating colled^ the red atoms 
 which had been difperfed. But this agat grey is 
 permanent, for as I have faid in the chapter on 
 Indigo, vitriolated tartar is a hard fait which 
 will neither calcine in the fun, nor be diflfolved 
 by rain. 
 
 Glauber falts intirely deftroys the red of the 
 kermes, and produces an earthy grey, unable 
 to withftand the trials, becaufe this fait neither 
 
 refills 
 
DYING WOOL. 117 
 
 refifts cold water, nor the power of the fun, by 
 which it is reduced to powder. 
 
 Green or blue vitriol, feparately fubftituted 
 inflead of alum, but employed with cryftal of 
 tartar, deftroys in like manner the red colour of 
 kermes, which in thcfe two experiments pro- 
 duces the fame effefl, as it would with nut- 
 galls ox Jmnach j becaufe it precipitates the iron 
 of the green vitriol, which gives the cloth a 
 brownilh grey, and the copper of the blue 
 vitriol, which gives an olive tinge. 
 
 Concerning blue vitriol, I lubilitute a folution 
 of copper in aciua-fortis ; this alfo produces 
 an olive colour, a certain fign that kermes 
 poflefs the precipitating quality of galls. 
 
 Why the red of kermes is as permanent as 
 that of madder, is probably becaufe this infeft 
 being nourifhed on an aftringent fhrub, the 
 juice of this plant has notwithftanding the 
 alteration which digeftion in the ftomaeh of the 
 infed may have produced, prefervcd its aflrin- 
 gency, and confequently the power of giving 
 greater elafticity to the pores of the wool, in 
 order to make them contract more fpeedily 
 and vigorously when taken out of the boilincr 
 water, and expofed to the cold: For I have ob- 
 ferved that all the barks, roots, woods, fruits, 
 and other fubftances, pofTefTing an aftringent 
 quality, give a permanent colour. 
 
 The white vitriol of Collar, whofc bafis is 
 zinc, as mentioned in my Memoir on this 
 femi-metal, of the year 1735, being employed 
 with cryftals of tartar, changes the red of the 
 Jicrrnes to violet. Thus, with a fingle colouring 
 
 I 3 drug, 
 
ii8 THE ART OF 
 
 drug, and a fimple alterant, violet colours may 
 be produced without previoufly giving them a 
 bafis of blue. For this compound colour, or 
 confidered as fuch (becaufe hitherto impofTible to 
 beprocuredwithout the application of blue on red, 
 or red on blue) fucceeds alfo with cochineal, or 
 even with madder, as will appear when I mention 
 thefe two colours. As white vitriol is procured 
 from a mineral containing lead, arfenic, and 
 various other fubftances, whofe recrements being 
 fufed with fand, and alkaline falts, is vitrifyed 
 into a blue mafs, called Sapphire; I fufpe(fled 
 that the white vitriol might contain a portion 
 of this blue, which changed the red of kermes 
 to violet, and that confequently the bifmuth 
 iTiineraljwhich really contains this blue fubftance, 
 and the bifmuth itfelf, would produce an effect 
 fimilar to that of the white vitriol. It will pre- 
 fently appear that I was notmiflakenin myconjec- 
 t'.5re; for having thrown fome of the extraftion of 
 the bifmuth-mineral on the experimental liquor, 
 which I made with kermes, and a folution of 
 bifmuth itfelf, into another deco6lion of the 
 fame ingredient, they each of them dyed white 
 cloth a violet colour. I fhall not in this place 
 give the method of making an extradlion from 
 the ore of bifmuth, for befides that it is an 
 operation, rather difficult for a dyer, this ore 
 is not found in France. It muft be imported 
 from Mifnia, where they do not part with it fo 
 eafily. Neverthclefs, fhould the reader be 
 curious to know what I mean by an extraction 
 of the ore of bifmuth, he will find the procefs in 
 the Memoirs of the Academv of Sciences for 
 
 the 
 
DYING WOOL. '. ^^ 
 
 the year 1737, in which there is a paper of 
 mine on fympathetic inks. With regard to 
 the folution of bifmuth, which produces nearly 
 the fame etfe(5t, I make it in the following man- 
 ner. I take four parts of the fpirit of Nitre, and 
 four parts pure water, mixed together, in which 
 I diflblved one part bifmuth, which I break into 
 fmall pieces, in order to put them into the liquor 
 by degrees, left they fhould produce too violent 
 a fermentation. 
 
 Whenever there is too great a quantity of 
 acid added to the liquor of kermes, be it fpirit 
 of vitriol, fpirit of nitre, or aqua-foriiSy vinegar, 
 lemon juice, or even four water, it {o perfectly 
 divides the colouring red particles, that the 
 cloth acquires only a cinnamon colour, with 
 an aurora caft, if there be much acid, and iF 
 there be lefs acid, the colour is rather more red. 
 
 Fixed alkalies, with the addition of four water 
 and cream of tartar, inftead of alum, do not like 
 acids deftroy the red of kermes j but if the quan- 
 tities be too great, they deepen and foil in fuch 
 a manner, that the cloth obtains only a tarnifhed 
 lilac colour. From other experiments ftill 
 more varied, I procured an infinity of colours, 
 but as there appeared none finer than thofe pro- 
 duced by ingredients much lefs expenfive than 
 the kermes, I thought *a relation of them needlefs, 
 as it would only extend this treatife to an 
 unnecefTary length. 
 
 I 4 C H A P. 
 
t : THE ART. OF 
 
 CHAP. xni. 
 
 Of Fire Scarlet, 
 
 FIRE Scarlet, formerly known by the name 
 of Dutch Scarlet, and at prefent called 
 Scarlet of Gobelins, the difcovery of which 
 Kunckel attributed to Kufler, a German chymifl:, 
 is the fined and brio-hteft colour in the Art of 
 Dying. It is alfo the moft expenfive, and one 
 pi the moft difficult to bring to perfection. It 
 is indeed fcarce poffible to determine what is the 
 flandard of perfeftion; becaufe, independent of 
 the different talles, by which mankind are divided 
 in their choice concerning colours^ there is be- 
 fides a general tafte, which makes fome colours 
 fafhionablc at one time more than another. It 
 is falhion, therefore, Vv'hich conftitutes the per- ♦ 
 feftion of colours. Formerly, for inflance^ deep 
 unglaring Scarlccs were generally preferred. The 
 fafhionable Scarlet at prefent is tinged ^ith 
 orange, is fiery, and dazzling. I (hall not^, at 
 prefent, decide which is the preferable taftej 
 but fliall defcribe the method of obtaining both 
 thefe colours, with their intermediate fhades. 
 
 (Cochineal, which produces this beautiful co- 
 lour, and which is called Mejiique^ or T'ejcakj is an 
 infect, gathered in confiderable quantity in Mexico. 
 They are cultivated by the natives of the coun- 
 try^ that is to fay, they are gathered from the 
 plant, by which they are nourifhed, before the 
 rainy feafon. Thofe defigned for fale are killed 
 and drycd, and the reft are kept in order to 
 
 multiply 
 
DYING WOOL. 121 
 
 fn.u!tiply when the bad feafon is over. This in- 
 fed: lives and multiplies on a fpecies of fpinou? 
 Opuntia, called Tppal. They may be preferved 
 in a dry place, for many ages without fpoiling. 
 I have a Imall quantity from Amfterdam un- 
 doubtedly ijo years oldj they are, neverthelefs, 
 as entirely perfed, as if they had but juft arrivecj 
 from Vera Cruz, and produce the fame cffed 
 in dying as the frelli cochineal. 
 
 The cochineal of Syh'jcftre or Cum-pejfiane, 15 
 alfo imported into Europe from Vera- Cruz. The 
 Indians gather it in the woods of Old and Nev/ 
 Mexico. The infed lives, grows, and multi- 
 plies, on the uncultivated Opuntias, which 
 grows there in great abundance. It is there 
 .expofed to all the inclemencies of the rainy 
 feafon, and dies naturally. This cochineal i$ 
 much fmaller than the cultivated cochineal, and 
 its colour more durable, though lefs bright: 
 but there is no advantage in ufing it, for though 
 it is cheaper, a greater quantity is required. 
 
 Damaged cochineal is fometimes fold at Cadiz, 
 either fhipwrecked, or, by fome mifchance, wee 
 with fea water. This fort of accidents confide- 
 rably leflens the price j for as the tinge of the 
 cochineal is fometimes crimfoned by the fea 
 water, it can only be ufed for purples, which 
 are not of the fineft. There was, however, in 
 the year 1735, a perfon who poflefTed a fecret 
 of turning it to as much advantage, even for 
 Scarlet, as the fined cochineal. The difcovery 
 of this fecret would not be very difficult; we 
 >vill not, however, by making it publick, deprive 
 
 him 
 
J22 THE ART OF 
 
 him of his cxpcfted reward, at a time too when 
 
 perhaps it may be neceflary. 
 
 There is fcarce a Dyer who has not a par- 
 ticular receipt for Scarlet, and each of them 
 is prejudiced in favour of his own method. His 
 fuccefs, notwithftanding, depends on the choice 
 of the cochineal, the water ufed for dying, and 
 the manner of preparing the folution of tin, 
 called by the Dyers, the compofitlon for Scarlet. 
 
 As it is this compofition which gives a fine 
 bright fire colour to the cochineal, which without 
 the addition of this acid folution would be crim- 
 fon, I Ihall, from my own experience, give the 
 beft method of making this compofition. I 
 take eight ounces of fpirit of nitre and weaken it 
 by adding eight ounces of river water; I then 
 difiblve, by degrees, half an ounce of fal-am- 
 moniac, very white, in order to make an aqua- 
 regis3 for it is well known that the fpirit of nitre 
 alone is not a proper menftruum for tin. Laftly, 
 I add only two drachms of faltpetre of the third 
 drying; this might be omitted, but I am per- 
 fuaded that it contributes to blend the colour, 
 and make it more uniform. In this weak aqua- 
 regis I diflblve an ounce of Englifii tin, previ- 
 oufly made into grains, by dropping it, when 
 melted, from a certain height, into a bafon of 
 cold water. Thefe grains I drop into the folution 
 one after another, waiting till the firfl: is diflblved 
 before I put in a fecond, in order to preferve the 
 red vapours which rifes in a great quantity, and 
 which would be loft were the metal to be diflblved 
 too precipitately. It is neceflary to preferve this 
 vapour, which, as Kunckel obferved in his time, 
 
 contributed 
 
D Y I N G W O O L. 125 
 
 contributed to the vivacity of the colour. This 
 is doubtlefs a much more tedious method than 
 that ufed by the Dyers, who throw their aqua- 
 fortis immediately on the tin grains, and who, 
 when it produces a rapid fermentation, and a 
 quantity of vapour, allay it with cold water. 
 When my tin is thus gradually diflblved, the 
 Scarlet compofition is complete, and the liquor 
 of the colour of a folution of gold. I ufe the 
 fineft tin, without alloy, fuch as the firft produc- 
 tion of the furnaces at Cornwall j confequently 
 there is neither dud or black fediment at the 
 bottom. This folution of tin, though fo very 
 tranfparent when juft made, becomes milky in 
 the violent fummer heats. The Dyers are almoft 
 generally of opinion that it is then turned, and 
 no longer good. I found, however, that this 
 apparent defed made no difference. Befides, 
 in cold weather it refumes its former tranfpa- 
 rency, provided-it be prepared with the feveral 
 precautions which I have juft dire6ted. I muft 
 likewifc add, that it fhould be prefcrved in flafl^s 
 well (topped with glafs ftoppers to prevent the 
 volatile parts from evaporating. 
 
 The Dyers compofition, for want of this at- 
 tention, is frequently of no ufe in twelve or 
 fifteen days. I give them the beft method, and 
 if they expect perfecftion they muft alter their 
 prefent defective method. 
 
 The Dyers have a ftone veflcl with a wide 
 mouth, in which they put two pounds of fal-am- 
 moniac, two ounces of faltpetre refined, and two 
 pounds of tin granulated in water: they put into 
 a feparate velTel four pints of water, half a 
 4 pint 
 
M4 THEARTOF 
 
 pint of which they throw on the mixture in the 
 ilone vefTd. They afterwards add a pound and 
 half of common aqua-fortis, which produces a 
 violent fermentation ; when the ebullition ceafes 
 they add as much more aqua-fortis, and imme- 
 diately afterwards another pound. After this 
 they pour on it the remainder of the four pints 
 of water. They cover the veflel well, and let it 
 ftand till the next day. The faltpetre and fal- 
 ammoniac may be diffolved in aqua-fortis before 
 the tin is added ; but this they fay is the fame 
 thing, though it is very certain that the lad is 
 the befc method. Others mix the water and 
 aqua-fortis together, which mixture they throw 
 on the tin and fal-ammoniac. Others, in fhort, 
 obferve different proportions. 
 
 The day after preparing this compofition they 
 make the preparaticn for Scarlet, not in the leaft 
 refembling that mentioned in the preceding chap- 
 ter. As for eijample, for one pound of worfted 
 they put into a fmall copper ten gallons of clear 
 river water. When the water is a little more than 
 \^'arm, they add two ounces of cream of tartar in 
 fine powder, and a drachm ^nd half of pulverized 
 cochineal fifted. They keep a quick fire, and 
 when the liquor is ready to boil, add two ounces 
 of the compofition, which acid immediately 
 changes the colour of the liquor from crimfon 
 to blood colour. As foon as the liquor begins 
 to boil they plunge the worfted, previoufly 
 fteeped in hot water, and exprelTed. Jt is then 
 {birred without ceafing, and fufFered to boil 
 during an hour and half; after which it is taken 
 out, gently fqueezcd, and waflied in cold water. 
 
 The 
 
DYING WOOL. 125 
 
 The worded when taken out is of a tolerable 
 bright flefli colour, or even fome ihades darker, 
 according to the goodnefs of the cochineal and 
 the ftrengch of the compofition. The colour of 
 the liquor is fo intirely imbibed by the worfted, 
 that it remains almoft as clear as common water. 
 This is called the Scarlet boiling; a preparation 
 abfolutely neceffary, and without which the cochi- 
 neal dye would not hold. 
 
 In order to finifli, there muft be another pre- 
 paration of very clear water, as the goodnefs of 
 the water is of infinite confequence to the per- 
 fection of Scarlet. They add, at the fame time, 
 half an ounce of ftarch, and when the liquor 
 is better than warm, fix drachms and half of 
 cochineal, alfo pulverifed and fifced, is added 
 to it. Two ounces of the compofition is 
 poured into the liquor a little before it boils, 
 which, as at firft, immediately changes colour. 
 You wait till it begins to bubble, and then 
 dip the worfted. It ihould be conftantly 
 ftirred as at firft, and in the fame manner fuf- 
 fered to boil for an hour and half, after which it 
 is taken out, expreffed, and rinced at the river : 
 the Scarlet is then in perfe6lion. 
 
 One ounce of cochineal to a pound of wool 
 will give it a fine colour, and make it fufficiently 
 deep, provided it be managed with attention 
 according to my diredlions, and that there re- 
 mains 'no colour in the liquor. If, neverthclefs, 
 you would have it deeper, you may add a drachm 
 or two more of the cochineal; but a greater 
 quantity would deftroy all its brightnefs and 
 
 vivacity. 
 
 Though 
 
126 THEARTDF 
 
 Though I have afcertained the quantity of the 
 compofition,aswell (or the preparation as for dying, 
 this quantity fhould not be confidered as inva- 
 riable. The aqua-fortis generally ufed by the 
 Dyers is feldom of an equal ftrength, confe- 
 quently, if it be always mixed with an equal 
 quantity of water, it will not always produce 
 the fame effe6b. There are certainly fome 
 methods of afcertaining the different degrees of 
 the acidity of the aqua-fortis, as, for example, 
 to ufe that only two ounces of which will diflblve 
 one ounce of filver: by obferving this method 
 you might fucceed in making a compofition that 
 would be always the fame; but then the qua- 
 lity of the cochineal would occafion other vari- 
 eties; however the little difference which this 
 generally produces in the fcarlet fhade is not of 
 much confequence ; befides, there is a method 
 of remedying this defedb, and bringing it pre- 
 cifcly to what colour you pleafe. 
 
 If the compofition be weak, and lefs of it be 
 added than I have direfted, the Scarlet will be 
 rather deeper and ftrongerj but if, on the con- 
 trary, there be a little too much, it will have 
 more of the orange colour; more of what is 
 called fire. In order to give it this Ihade, a little 
 more of the compofition may be added after the 
 fixfl-, if the worfled appears to have imbibed too 
 deep a colour. But the wool Ihould be taken 
 out firft, and the compofition well ftirred in the 
 copper, for if it happens to touch the wool before 
 it be v/cll mixed, it would fpot. If, on the con- 
 trary, the Scarlet be too fiery, too much on the 
 orange, or too rufty, there is nothing to be done; 
 
 but 
 
DYING WOOL. J27 
 
 but when it is entirely finifhed, to dip it in hot: 
 water: this will crimfon it a little, that is, it will 
 diminifli the brightnefs of the orange j but if this 
 is not found fufficient, it will be necefiary to put 
 a little Roman alum into the hot water. 
 
 When you would dye a regular ferics of fear- 
 let fliades in worfteds, half the quantity of cochi- 
 neal, and of the compofition ufed for a full 
 Scarlet will be fufficient: you alfo diminifli in 
 proportion the cream of tartar in the preparation. 
 The worfted fliould be divided into as many 
 fkeins as you would have fliades, and when the 
 preparation is made you dip the fkcin intended 
 for the lighted fliade, which fliould remain but 
 a very little times the next fliade fliould after- 
 wards be put in, and fuffered to remain fome 
 little time longer, and fo on to the darkefl: fliade: 
 the worfl:eds arc then waflied, and the liquor pre- 
 pared, in order to finifli them. As foon as the 
 liquor is in a proper fl:ate, every fliade is dipped 
 one after another, beginning with the lightefl:. 
 If you perceive any flcip in the fliade, the flvcia 
 which appears deficient in colour fliould get 
 another dip. This deficiency is eafily perceived, 
 and a very little pradice enables you to fort them 
 perfedly. 
 
 One circumftance in the art of dying 
 which deferves attention, but which I have 
 not yet mentioned, is an enquiry concerning 
 the materials of which the cauldron is made — 
 Dyers are divided in this particular. Their caul- 
 drons in Languedoc are made of fine tin. They 
 are alfo ufed by fcveral Dyers at Paris; but 
 Mr. Julienne, whofe Scarlet is very highly 
 
 efleeraed. 
 
lag THEARTOF 
 
 efteemed, makes ufe of brafs cauldrons. Thefe are 
 alfo ufed in the dying manufaflory of St. Dennis. 
 Mr. Julienne is careful only to fufpend a large 
 pack-thread net, with pretty fmall mefhes in his 
 cauldron, to prevent the fluff from touching. 
 At St. Dennis, inftead of a net, they ufe a large 
 open wicker bafketi but this is lefs convenient 
 than the net, becaufe it requires a man at each 
 fide of the copper^ to keep it even, and to prevent 
 it, when loaded with the fluff, from rifing to the 
 furface of the liquor. 
 
 This praflice, fo different with regard to the 
 materials of the cauldron, determined me to 
 make an experiment. I took two ells of white 
 Sedan cloth, which 1 dyed in two cauldrons, 
 one of copper, furniflied with a packthread net, 
 and the other of tin. I weighed the cho- 
 chineal, the compofition, and other ingredients, 
 with as much accuracy as poffible. They 
 boiled exaftly the fame time. In fhort, I was 
 fufficiently attentive to make the operation 
 the fame in every particular ; that in cafe of any 
 perceptible difference it could only be attributed 
 to the different materials of the cauldrons. 
 After the firfl boiling, the two patterns were 
 abfolutely alike, except, that the piece done 
 in the tin cauldron was rather more mar- 
 bled, and not quite fo even as the other; but 
 this in all probability might be occafioned by 
 their not having been equally cleanfed at the 
 mill. I finiflied each piece in its proper caul- 
 dron, and they were both of them very beau- 
 tiful. Ncverthelefs it was very evident, that 
 the cloth, which had been dyed in the tin 
 I was 
 
DYING WOOL. . 129 
 
 was more fiery, and the other rather more crim- 
 foned. They might have been eafily brought to the 
 famefhadej but this was not my objed. From 
 this experiment, it appears that, with a copper 
 cauldron, the quantity of the compofition fhould 
 be increafedi but then the cloth grows harfh 
 to the feel. Thofe who dye in copper, to pre- 
 vent this evil, add a little of the Turme?ick, 
 which is a drug only ufcd for falfe colours, 
 and therefore prohibited by the Regulations to 
 dyers in grain, but which gives Scarlet that 
 dazzling fiery colour, fo much the falhion at 
 prefent. It is however, if you have any fuf- 
 picion, eafy to difcover the deception, by 
 cutting the pattern v;ith a pair of fcifiars. if 
 it has no ^iirmerick the cut edge will appear 
 white, otherwife it will be yellow. When the 
 clofe texture is equally dyed with the fuper- 
 ficies, let the colour be what it will, they fay 
 the colour aitSj and the contrary, when the 
 middle of the texture remains white. Legiti- 
 mate Scarlet never cuts. I call it legiti- 
 mate, and the other falfe, becaufe that with 
 the addition of the Tiirmefick is more liable 
 to fade. But as the tufte for colours is 
 fo variable, as the bright Scarlets are at pre- 
 fent the mode, and as it is neceflary, in 
 order to pleafe the buyer, that it fiiould have a 
 yellow cad, it were better to authorife the life 
 of the Turmericky though a falfe colour, than 
 to allow too large a quantity of the compofition 
 by which the cloth is injured, being more 
 liable not only to dirt, but alfo to tear, as the 
 
 K fibres 
 
no TflE A RT OF 
 
 fibres of the wool are rendered brittle by thtf 
 
 acid. 
 
 I miifl alfo add, that a copper cauldron fliould 
 be kept extreamly clean. I have myfelf fre- 
 quently failed in fcarlet patterns by neglefting 
 to clean the cauldron. I cannot in this place 
 forbear condemning the practice, even of fome 
 eminent dyers, who at about fix o'clock in 
 the evening, make their preparation in a copper 
 cauldron, and in order to gain time, keep it 
 hot till day light the next morning,, when they 
 dip their flufrs. The preparation rnuft un- 
 doubtedly corrode the copper during the night, 
 and confequently by introducing coppery par- 
 ticles into the cloth, injure the Scarlet. They 
 will tell us that they do not put in the com- 
 pofition till immediately before the cloth is 
 dipped, but this is no apology,, for the crean^ 
 of tartar added on the preceding evening, being 
 fufficiently acid to corrode the copper, forms a 
 verdigris, which difTolves, it is true, as foon as 
 it is formed, but which neverthelefs produce^ 
 Tthe fame effed. 
 
 As tin is abfolutly neceflary in the Scarlet dye, 
 it were much better to have a cauldron of this 
 metal, which would infallibly contribute to the 
 beauty of the colour. But thefe cauldrons, if 
 fufficiently large, coft three or four thoufand 
 livres, an obje(ft of confideration, efpecially as 
 they may melt in the firft operation, if not 
 carefully attended to by the workmen. Befides 
 it would be very difficult to cafl a vefiel of fo 
 large a fize, without flaws that would require 
 to be filled. It is abfolutely necefiary that they 
 
 be 
 
DYING WOOL. 131 
 
 be made of block tin. If the flaws Ihould be 
 filled with folder, which contains a mixture of 
 lead, many parts of the cauldron will retain 
 the lead, which, being corroded by the acid 
 compofition, will tarnifh the Scarlet. Hence 
 there are inconveniencies in every particular, 
 neverthelefs if it were pofTible to procure a 
 fkilful workman capable of calling a cauldron 
 of the Melac tin, without flaw, it were cer- 
 tainly preferable to every other; for though the 
 acid of the compofition fhould in fome parts 
 corrode it, the detached particles will do 
 no harm, as I have already obferved. 
 
 There is no danger of melting a tin cauldron, 
 but when it is emptied in order to fill it with a 
 frelh liquor, I Ihali therefore add the precau- 
 tions neeefl^ary to prevent this evil. In the firfl 
 place the fire fhould be taken entirely from the 
 furnace, and the remaining embers quenched 
 with water. Part of the liquor fhould then be 
 taken out with a bucket, while the remain- 
 der fhould be dafhed about with a fliovel by 
 another perfon, in order to keep the upper 
 part of the cauldron continually moift, at the 
 fame time cooling what remains in the cauldron 
 with cold water. In this manner it fhould 
 be continued, till you can touch the bottom 
 without being burnt. It fhould then be entirely 
 emptied and all the fediment taken up with a 
 moifl fpunge. This attention will preferve your 
 cauldron. 
 
 Having given the method of dying worflcds 
 
 in Scarlet, and of making the fhades required 
 
 K 2 for 
 
132 THE ART OF 
 
 for all kinds of tapeftry, I fhall now add the 
 method of dying feveral pieces of fluff at the 
 fame time, and fhall in this place defcribe the 
 praftice ufed in Languedoc, as it was com- 
 municated to me by M. de Tondieres, then 
 infpedlor general of the manufaflories. I made 
 the experiment myfclf with feveral ells of fluff, 
 and fucceeded perfeftly well, though the colour 
 was not quite fo fine as the fcarlet of Gob- 
 lins. 
 
 It is firfl neceffary to obferve, that woolens 
 are never dyed Scarlet in the fleece, for the two 
 following reafons. The firfl is, or ought to 
 regard all fluffs of fimply one colour; thofe 
 of many colours are called mixed fluffs. 
 Thefe kind of fluffs are never dyed in the wool, 
 cfpecialiy when the colours are bright and fine ; 
 becaufe in the courfe of the fabrication, the 
 fpinning, twifling, or weaving, it would, be 
 almofl impoffible to prevent fome white or 
 other colour wool from mixing, v/hich though 
 ever fo trifling would injure the fluff. For which 
 reafon, reds, blues, yellows, greens, or any 
 of thefe unmixed colours fhould not be dyed 
 till after they have been manufaflured. 
 
 The fecond rcafon is peculiar to Scarier, or 
 father to the cochineal, which, being hightened 
 by an acid, cannot fland the fulling, without 
 lofing much of its colour, or being at leafl 
 exceffively crimfoned. Tor the foap which 
 contains an alkaline fait deflroys the vi- 
 vacity produced by tlie acids. Hence is ic 
 evident that neither cloth or fluffs fliould 
 
 be 
 
D Y I iN G WOO L. 133 
 
 be dyed Scarlet till they have been fulled and 
 djcfled. 
 
 For exannple, in order to dye five pieces of 
 CarcaiTionne cloth at the fame time, each piece 
 five quarters broad, and fifteen or fixteen ells in 
 length, it is neceffary to obferve the following 
 proportions: You begin by making the compo- 
 fition in a very different manner from the pre- 
 ceding procefs, viz. twelve pounds of aqua-for- 
 tis put into a (lone jar, or glazed vefTel, with 
 twenty-four pounds of water, and one pound and 
 half of tin grains added. The folution goes on 
 more or lefs flow according to the acidity of 
 the aquafortis, and fliould (land for twelve hours 
 at leaft. During this time a kind of blackifh 
 dirt falls to the bottom; the top fhould be then 
 drained off the fcdiment : this liquor is of a 
 clear lemon colour, and is preferved by itfelf. 
 This procefs evidently differs from the firfl: by 
 the quantity of water mixed with the aqua- 
 fortis, and by the fmall portion of tin, of which 
 fcarce any remains in the liquor; for the aqua- 
 fortis not being in itfelf a folvent for tin, only 
 corrodes and reduces it to a calcs, provided nei- 
 ther faltpetre nor lal -ammoniac be added, which 
 would convert it into an aqua-regia. The effedt 
 of this compoJition is not, however, different 
 from others, and is perceptible to thofe who 
 from experience are competent judges of this 
 colour. The compofition without fal-ammoniac 
 has been for a long time ufed by the manufadlu- 
 rers of Carcaffionnc, who doubtlcfs imagined 
 that its effedl was owing to a fuppofed fulphuv of 
 K 3 tin 
 
 %' 
 
134 THE ART OF 
 
 tin, and may be preferved from putrcfaflioa 
 for thirty hours in winter, and only twenty- 
 four in fummer. It then grows turbid, forms 
 A cloud, which falls to the bottom of the 
 veflel in a white fediment. This fediment is a 
 fmall portion of the tin, which was fufpended in 
 an acid not prepared for the folution. The 
 compofition which ought to be yellow, be- 
 comes clear as water, and if employed in this flate 
 . never fucceeds, but produces the fame efFeft as if 
 it had been milky. The late Mr. Barron pretended 
 to be the firft at CarcafTionne who made the dif- 
 covery that fal-ammoniac was neceflary to pre- 
 vent the tin from precipitating. Hence it follows, 
 that there was not in this city a creature who knew 
 that aqua-regia is the only aitual folvent for tin. 
 
 When the compofition is prepared, as I have 
 now defcribed, according to M. de Fondieres, 
 you put for the quantity of cloth laft mentioned, 
 about fixty cubic feet of water into a large copper ; 
 when the water grows warm, you add a fack full 
 of bran: it is fometimes. neceflary to ufe four 
 water; they will either of them do, as they fay, 
 to corre<5b the water, viz. to abforb the terreous 
 and alkaline fubftances, which, as I have already 
 faid, crimfon the tinge of the cochineal. We 
 fliould be well informed concerning the nature 
 of the water employed, in order to know whe- 
 ther thefe correftives be neceflary. 
 
 Be it as it may, when the water is a little more 
 
 than warm, you add ten pounds of cryftals, or 
 
 cream of tartar pulverifed, that is to fay, two 
 
 pounds to each piece of cloth. The liquor 
 
 K ihould 
 
DYING WOOL. 135 
 
 {liould be then violently (lirred, and when rather 
 liot, you fhould put into it half a pound of 
 the powder of cochineal, mixing it well together, 
 and imnnediately afterwards you pour into it 
 twenty-feven pounds of the compofition, very 
 clear, which alfo requires to be well ftirred. As foon 
 as it begins to boil, the cloth being immerfed, 
 fliould boil very faft for two hours, and during 
 that time fhoujd be kept in continued motion 
 on the wynch, and when taken out pafllng 
 it through the hands by the lifting, in order ta 
 open and give it air. It is afterwards carried 
 to the river and well waflied. 
 
 In order perfediy to underftand the method of 
 ftirring the cloth, it is requifite to recoiled what has 
 been faid in the beginning of this work, 'viz. that 
 3 kind of reel, or wyn/:b with a handle for turn- 
 ing, fhould be placed horizontally on the iron 
 iiooks which are fixed in the felloes that fup- 
 port the edge of the cauldron. You firft join 
 the feveral ends of each piece of ftufF to be dyed 
 at the fame time, and, as foon as they are im- 
 merfed, you carefully keep the end of the firft 
 piece in your hand, you then lay it on the reel, 
 which ftiould be turned till the end of the laft 
 piece appears. It is then turned the contrary 
 way, and in this manner every piece will be dyed 
 as even as pofTible. 
 
 When the cloth has been well wafiied, the 
 cauldron ftiould be emptied, frefti liquor pre- 
 pared, to which you muft add, if neceflary, a 
 fack of bran, or fome four w^aterj but if the 
 quality of the water be very good, there is no occa- 
 K 4 fion 
 
135 THE ART OF 
 
 fion for any addition. When the liquor is ready 
 to boil, you put in eight pounds and a quarter of 
 cochineal pulverifed and fifted. The whole is 
 then mixed together as even as pofTible; but 
 when you ceafe to ftir you muft mind when the 
 cochineal rifes to the furface, forming a kind of 
 fcum the colour of lees of wine. As foon as this 
 fcum begins to divide, you pour in eighteen or 
 twenty pounds of the compofition. You fhould 
 have a vefTel full of cold water near the cauldron 
 ready to throw in, left after putting in the com- 
 pofition it flioUid rife above the edge, as is fome- 
 times the cafe. 
 
 When the compofition is put into the copper, 
 and the whole well mixed, you turn the wynch 
 quick for two or three turns, that every piece may 
 imbibe the cochineal equally. It is then turned 
 more flowly in order to let the water boil. 
 It fhould boil very fail for two hours, con- 
 ftantly turning and keeping the cloth down 
 with a (lick. The cloth is then taken out, and 
 pafled through the hands by the lifting, in order 
 to give it air and to cool itj it is afterwards 
 waftied at the river, dryed, and drefled. 
 
 Hence it appears that for every piece of Lan- 
 guedoc cloth defigned for the Levant, is required 
 a pound and three quarters of cochineal. This 
 quantity is fufficient to give the cloth a very fine 
 colour; but if you increafe the quantity of the 
 cochineal, and ftill require an orange tincfl, yon 
 muft necefiarily increafe the quantity of the 
 compofition, which would injure the cloth with- 
 out improving the colour. 
 
 4 Ther^ 
 
DYING WOOL. 137 
 
 There is a confiderable advantage In having a 
 great quantity of fluff to dye at the fame time; 
 as for example, when the five firfl pieces are 
 finifhed, there remains a certain quantity of the 
 cochineal, which, fuppofing feven pounds at firfl, 
 might amount to twelve ounces, fo that cloth put 
 into this fecond liquor will imbibe the fame fhade 
 of rofe colour as if you had coloured a frefh 
 liquor with twelve ounces of cochineal. The 
 quantity remaining may, however, vary very 
 much according to the quality of the cochineal, 
 or according to the finenefs of the powder; but 
 I fhall fpeakof this more particularly before the 
 conclufion of this chapter. Though the quan- 
 tity of colour remaining in the liquor may be 
 very inconfiderable, it neverthelefs deferves 
 attention on account of the dearnefs of this 
 drug. Of this liquor, therefore, a preparation 
 may be made for five pieces of cloth, and it will 
 require lefs of the cochineal and lefs of the com- 
 pofition, in proportion, as near as you can guefs, 
 to the quantity remaining in the liquor. This is 
 alfo a faving of wood and time; but it is im- 
 pofTible to give pofitive diredlions concerning 
 tiiis manoeuvre, which mull be left to the inge- 
 nuity of the Dyer; for having dyed rofe colour 
 after the Scarlet, you may make a tiiird prepa- 
 ration, which will dye a flefh colour. If there 
 is not time to make thefe two or three prepara- 
 tions in twenty-four hours, the liquor fpoils; 
 ibme Dyers put Roman alum into the liquor to 
 prevent it from fpoiling; but this changes it to a 
 
 crimfon. 
 
 Scarlets 
 
13$ THE ART OF 
 
 Scarlets thus crimfoncd in the fame liquor in 
 which they had been dyed, arc never To bright 
 as thofe done in a frelh liquor. Drugs, which 
 reciprocally deftroy each other's efFe<2:, are more 
 efficacious when employed in fucceflion. 
 
 When you dye cloth of different qualities, or 
 any kind of fluffs, the bcfl method is to weigh 
 them, and for every hundred pound to allow 
 about fix pounds of cryftals, or cream of tartar, 
 eighteen pounds of thecompofition in xht prepara- 
 tion, the fame quantity in the completion, and in 
 each of them fix pounds and a quarterof cochineal. 
 For the accommodation of thofe who would 
 themfelves make fmall experiments, the whole 
 may be reduced, viz. one ounce of cream of 
 tartar, fix ounces of the compofition, and an 
 ounce of cochineal for every pound of fluff. 
 Some of the Paris Dyers fucceed very well by 
 ■putting two thirds of the compofition and a quar^ 
 tcrof the cochineal in the preparalion, and the re- 
 maining third of the compofition, and the other 
 three quarters of the cochineal, to the comple- 
 tion. 
 
 It is not the cuflom to put cryflal of tartars in 
 the finilh; 1 am however convinced by experi- 
 ence that it does no harm, provided that at moft 
 you put but half the weight of the cochineal, 
 and, in my opinion, it made the colour rather 
 more permanent. There have been Dyers who 
 have dyed Scarlet at three times, in this cafe 
 they had twopreparationSy and afterwards thefinifh; 
 but they always ufed the fame quantity of drugs. 
 
 1 obferved in the preceding chapter, that the 
 kermes were fo little ufed for brown or Venetian 
 
 ScarlefeB^ 
 
DYING WOOL, 139 
 
 Scarlets, that thefe kind of colours were made 
 with cochineal. For this purpofe the preparation is 
 made as ufual, and for the dying, they add 
 to the liquor eight pounds of alum to every hun- 
 dred weight of fluff. This alum is diffolved in 
 a feparate cauldron with a fufficient quantity of 
 water: it is thrown into the liquor before the 
 cochineal. The remainder is done precifely the 
 fame as in common Scarlet : it gives the cloth 
 the colour of Venetian Scarletj but it is not by 
 any means fo permanent as the colour obtained 
 from kermes. 
 
 There are no alkaline falts that do not crimfon 
 Scarleti but it is more generally the cuftom to 
 ufe alum, becaufe thefe alkaline falts are no ad- 
 dition to the permanency of the colour, and may 
 pofiibiy injure the fluffs, becaufe all animal 
 fubllances are diffolved by fixed alkalies. The 
 alum, by being deprived of its phlegm by cal- 
 cination, will more certainly crimfon. The 
 liquor which had been ufed for crimfoning is red, 
 and ftill redder in proportion as the Scarlet is 
 more crimfoned, fo that the colours part with 
 much of their bafis in the liquor by which they 
 are darkened. It is however impofTible to darken 
 in Grain without falts. The late Mr. Barron, 
 in a memoire which he prefented to the Royal 
 Academy of Sciences twelve or fifteen years 
 ago, remarks, that he fucceeded better with 
 the fait of urine than with any other fait for 
 uniting the colour and preferving its brightnefs 
 and fulnefs i but, as he obferved, it is very' in- 
 >:onyenicnt to make any quantity of this fait. 
 
 Ifaid 
 
140 THEARTOF 
 
 I faid in the beginning of this chapter, that 
 the choice of the water for dying Scarlet was of 
 importance;, the greateft part of the common 
 waters fadden, becaufe they almoft always con- 
 tain a quantity of ftony or calcarious earth, 
 and fometimes of fulphureous or vitriolic acid. 
 Thefe are commonly called hard waters ; by this 
 term they mean water that will not diiTolve foap, 
 and in which it is not eafy to drefs vegetables. 
 By abforbing or precipitating thefe heterogeneous 
 fubftances, all waters are rendered equally good. 
 If the matter be alkaline, a little four water will 
 produce this efFecfl. Five or fix cubic feet of 
 this four water, added to fixty or feventy cubic 
 feet of other water before it has boiled, will 
 caufe the alkaline earth to rife in a fcum which 
 may be eafily taken off the liquor. A fack full 
 of any kind of white mucilaginous root cut in 
 fmall bits, or, if dry, powdered, will alfo, if 
 the fack be left to foak in the water for a half, or 
 three quarters of an hour, correal a doubtful 
 water; bran, as 1 have faid above, will alfo an- 
 fvver the fame end tolerably well. 
 
 "What I have hitherto faid in this chapter, 
 is meant for the inftrudion of thofe who would 
 acquire knowledge in the art of dying. I fhall 
 now endeavour to fatisfy the philofopher, and 
 prefent him with the experiments by which I 
 difcovered the invifibie mechanifm, if I may be 
 allowed the exprefiion, of thefe various prepa- 
 rations. 
 
 Cochineal infufed, or boiled only in clear water, 
 yields a purpleilh crimfon, which is its natural 
 colour. Put this folution into a glafs, and drop 
 
 on 
 
DYING WOOL. 14? 
 
 on it fome fpirit of nitre, it will gradually beconne 
 lighter till it is almoft yellow ; add a few drops 
 more and fcarce any of its original rednefs will 
 remain. In this manner acids deftroy red, by 
 dillblving and dividing it into particles of fuch 
 tenuity as to become imperceptible. By fub- 
 flituting vitriolic acid inftead of nitrous acid, 
 the firil alteration in the colour will be purple, 
 then purple lilach, afterwards light lilach, then 
 flefh colour, and then no colour at all. The 
 bluifli tinge, which by mixing with a red 
 conftitutes purple, may proceed from that fmall 
 portion of iron from which oil of vitriol is very 
 rarely exempt. Cream of tartar is the only fait 
 uled in the ^preparation for Scarlet, without the ad- 
 dition of alum, as is common in the ^r^^^ri?//^^ 
 tor other colours, becaufe its vitriolic acid, 
 would crimfon the dye. 
 
 It is neverthelefs neceflary to have a white 
 earthy fubftance; a lime which, with the red 
 particles of the cochineal, may form a kind of 
 painter's lacker, and which, by the help of 
 cryftals of tartar, is introduced into the pores 
 pf the wool. This calx is obtained from a folu- 
 tion of pure tin. Let this experiment be made 
 in a fmaU glafed earthen veffd, and when the 
 cochineal has tinged the water, the compofition 
 fhould be dropped into it drop by drop, examin- 
 ing, with a magnifying glafs, the efFcft produced 
 by each drop. You perceive a fmall circle, 
 whence arifes a pretty brifK fermentation. The 
 calx of the tin feparates, and is immediately 
 dyed the fame lively colour which is imbibed by 
 the cloth in the fec^uel of the operation. 
 
 I: 
 
143 THE ART OF 
 
 It is evident that the calx of tin is neceffary in 
 this operation, bccaufe if the cochineal is ufed 
 with fpirit of nitre, or aqua-fortis only, it pro- 
 duces a very ugly crimfon. If you diflblve any 
 other metal in the fpirit of nitre, fuch as 'iron 
 or mercury, the firft will produce a deep afh 
 colour J and the fecond, a marone colour, without 
 the lead appearance of the red of the cochineal 
 in either of them. Hence it is rational to fup- 
 pofe that the calx of tin, having been dyed by 
 the colouring particles of the cochineal, enlivened 
 by the diflblving acid of this metal, has formed 
 this kind of terreous lacker, the atoms of which 
 are introduced into the pores of the fibres of 
 the wool, which were opened by the heat 
 of the boiling water ; they are there wedged 
 in by the cryftals of tartar, and the pores of the 
 cloth being immediately contraded by tjie fud- 
 den cold, when expofed to the air, the colour- 
 ing particles will be fufficently fixed to be termed 
 in Grain. If, by being expofed to the air after- 
 wards, it fhould lofe any of it former vivacity, 
 it will not fuffer alike in all places, but accord- 
 ing to the heterogeneous fubftances with which 
 the air is impregnated. In the country, for 
 example, and particularly in a high fituation, 
 a fcarlet cloth will preferve its beauty much 
 longer than in a large city abounding with urinous 
 and alkaline effluvia^ for it is well known, as I 
 have before obferved, that all alkaline fubftances 
 deftroy the effedt produced by an acid on any 
 colour whatfoever. For this reafon, if you boil 
 a piece of Scarlet in a lixivium of pot-afh, the 
 colours become purple, and by continuing to 
 
 lee 
 
DYING WOOL. 143 
 
 let it boil, is entirely difcharged; becaufe fixed 
 alkali and cryftals of tartar produce a foluble 
 tartar, which water diflblves, and eafily detaches 
 from the pores of the wool. The intire maftic of 
 the colouring particles being thus deftroyed, is 
 mixed with the lixivium of the falts. 
 
 1 have tryed feveral different experiments 
 with the cochineal colour, in order to try the 
 cffed of its union with fubftances which arc 
 generally fuppofed not colouring j but I fhall 
 relate thofe only which produced the moll 
 extraordinary effeds. 
 
 For example. Zinc, dilTolved in fpirit of nitre, 
 converts the red of cochineal into a viplet flate 
 colour. 
 
 Sugar of lead inftead of cryftals of tartar, pro- 
 duces a tarnilhed lilach, which Ihews that the 
 leaden particles unite with the colour of the 
 cochineal. 
 
 Vitriolated tartar, made with pot-alhes and 
 vitriol, dellroys die red of this ingredient, and 
 leaves only an agate grey. 
 
 Bifmuth, diffolved in fpirit of nitre, diluted 
 with an equal quantity of water, poured on the 
 cochineal liquor, gives cloth a beautiful bright 
 turtle grey colour. 
 
 A folution of copper in fpirit of nitre, not 
 diluted, gives with the cochineal a dirty crim- 
 fon. 
 
 That of filver, a cinnamon colour. 
 
 Arfenic, a nwre lively cinnamon than the 
 preceding. 
 
 A folution of gold in aqua-regia, produces 
 & ftreaked marone, which makes the cloth 
 
 appear 
 
144 THEARTOF 
 
 appear as if it had been manufactured \Vith 
 
 different coloured wool. 
 
 A folution of mercury in fpirit of nitre pro* 
 duces nearly the lame effeA. 
 
 Glauber falts only, mixed with the cochineal 
 liquor, deflroys the red, in the fame manner 
 as vitriolated tartar, and like it produces an 
 agate grey colour; but not in grain j becaufc 
 this fait is too eafily diflblved, even- by cold 
 water, and is alfo of the clafs of falts, which arc 
 cafily calcined by the air. Fixed fait of urine 
 produces a clear afli-colour, without the lead 
 appearance of red, and like the preceding 
 article is not in grain, becaufe it yields no per- 
 manent maftic, and confequently is diflblved 
 by the humidity of the air only. Finally, the 
 cxtradl of bifmuth changes the red of cochi- 
 neal to a violet colour, as fine as if the cloth, 
 previous to the application of red, had been 
 dyed an azure blue. 
 
 From thefe experiments it is eafy to con- 
 clude that the falts, and metallic Iblutions, 
 unite with the particles of the colouring in- 
 gredient, and it is alfo demonftrable, that the 
 addition of thefe particles greatly contribute 
 to the tenacity of the colours. 
 
 Before the conclufion of this chapter I Ihall 
 make fome obfervations, which will not 1 think 
 be unacceptable to the reader. Neither the 
 dirt of the flreet, nor many other acid fub- 
 flances, will fpot Scarlet, if immediately walhed 
 off with a clean towel and clear water; but, if 
 fuffered to dry, the fpot is then a dark violet 
 colour and cannot be corrected, without a vege* 
 
 table 
 
DYING WOOL. 145 
 
 table acid, fuch as vinegar, lemon juice, or a 
 weak folution of white tartar made hotj but 
 tfiefe acids, if not managed with care and dex- 
 terity, will, in taking out the dark fpct, leave 
 a yellow one. I have before obferved that acids 
 will ruft and deftroy even the red of cochineal. 
 A red cloak, extremely fpotted with dirt, may 
 be cleaned with four water. For fome kinds of 
 fpots it is neceflary to dip the ftuTs in the 
 liquor that remains after dying fcarletj but for 
 others, you are obliged td difcharge the colour 
 and dye it again. 
 
 Alkalies have not alone the property of dif- 
 charging the fcarlet colour. A piece of fcarlet 
 cloth put into the preparatkn, for this colour, 
 will be difcharged in fuch a manner, that if 
 It boil but for one hour with three pieces of white 
 cloth, it will be difficult to diftinguifh that which 
 was fcarlet, from the others. 
 
 If you dip a piece of fcarlet cloth in 
 the preparation-zvater, it will immediately lofe 
 all its colour, becaufe the firft falts diffolve 
 and mix with the frefh; but if you boil it 
 again in a cochineal liquor, it will recover 
 its firfl colour, with the addition of fuper- 
 fluous colouring particles; and the cloth will 
 have much lefs vivacity than it would have ac- 
 quired in the common operation. Hence it 
 appears, that the inventors of this magnificent 
 colour muft have made a confiderable num- 
 ber of combinations, before they attained per- 
 fedtion. 
 
 Scarlet cloth always lofes a great part of its 
 brightnefs in the dreffing, becaufe it lays the 
 
 L fibres, 
 
146 THEARTOr* 
 
 fibres of the nap almoft parallel with the wefc. 
 In this ftate the cloth has lefs fuperficies, 
 and confequently refledts fewer rays of light. 
 Befides the ends of the hair is always the moll 
 impregnated with the dye, fo that when they 
 are layed down by the drefllng, their ends not 
 appearing is a great difadvantage to the vivacity 
 of the colour. 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 
 Of Crimjon, 
 
 CRIMSON, as I have before faid, is the 
 natural colour of the cochineal, or rather 
 that which it gives to wool when boiled in alum 
 and tartar, the common preparation for every 
 colour. The following is the method generally 
 pra6tifcd with worftedsj nor is there any great 
 difference with regard to cloth, as will be fhewn 
 in the fequel. You put into a cauldron two 
 ounces and half of alum, and an ounce and half 
 of white tartar, for every pound of wool. As. 
 foon as it begins to boil you put in the wool, 
 ftirring it well, and fufFering it to boil tor two 
 hours i it is, then taken out, lightly fqueezed, and 
 put into a bag, in which it fliould remain, as for 
 fcarlet in grain, and for every other colour, 
 
 A frefh liquor is prepared for the dying, rn 
 which you put an ounce of cochineal for every 
 pound of wool. When it begins to boil you 
 put in the wool, ftirring it well, as fhould be done 
 In the preparation, and thus it fhould remain 
 for an hourj it is then taken out, fqueezed, and 
 rinced at the rivei^. 
 
 If 
 
bViNG WOOL. 147 
 
 If you require a regular feries of fhades, you 
 proceed in the fame manner as I have directed 
 for fcarlets, viz. putting but half the quantity 
 of cochineal; the fhades fhould be dipped one 
 after another, the darker (hould remain longer 
 than the lighter, beginning always with the 
 lighteftHiadc. 
 
 I have made many attempts to bring crimfon 
 to greater perfedlion than has been hitherto 
 done, and have fucceeded fo far as to render 
 the grain colour equal in brightnefs and vivacity 
 to the falfe crimfon. I proceeded on the 
 following principles. It is very evident, from 
 what has been already faid, that cochineal is 
 faddened by alkalies: this was my foundatioa. 
 I tried foap, pearl-a(h, and pot-afli ; thefe falts 
 had the dehred efFect ; but at the fame time 
 they tarnifhed and diminifhed the brightnefs. 
 I determined to try volatile alkalies, and found 
 that the volatile fpirit of fal-ammoniac, pro- 
 duced a very good effedl; but it evaporated 
 in a moment, fo that being obliged to ufe a 
 confiderable quantity, the expence of the dye 
 Vvas vaftly increafed. I had then recourfe to 
 another expedient, which fucceeded better, and 
 the expence was very trifling : which was, to 
 life the volatile alkali of fal-ammoniac, in the 
 moment of its extradion from its bafis. For 
 this purpofe, when I had finiflied after the com- 
 mon procefs, I dipped my crimfon in a new 
 liquor, in which I diflblved a fmall quantity of 
 fal-ammoniac. When the liquor was a little 
 better than warm, I put in the fame quantity 
 of pot-afh, and my wool immediately took a 
 L 2 colour 
 
143 THE ART OF 
 
 colour very highly crimfoned, and very bright. 
 This method even faves cochineal, which being 
 raifed by the frefli folution, lefs of it will do 
 than is ufual in common praftice. Several, 
 even eminent Dyers highten their crimfon with 
 Archil, a drug of the falfe dye. 
 
 A very beautiful crimfon is obtained by 
 boiling the wool, as for common fcarlet, and 
 after^yards making a fecond preparation with two 
 ounces of alum, and an ounce of tartar, to 
 every pound of wool: it fliould remain an hour 
 in this decoflion. You then immediately prepare 
 a frefh liquor, in which, to every pound of wool, 
 you put fix drachms of cochineal. When it has 
 remained an hour in this liquor it is taken out, 
 and immediately dipped in a folution of barilla 
 and fal-ammoniac. You may in this manner 
 make a very beautiful feries of fhades of crimfon 
 by diminifhing the quantity of the cochineal. It 
 is neceffary to obferve, that in this procefs fix 
 drachms of cochineal to every pound of wool is 
 fufficientj becaufe, in the firft preparation for 
 fcarlet, they allow a drachm and half of cochi- 
 neal to every pound. It Ihould alfo be obferved, 
 that in this procefs your folution of alkaline and 
 ammoniacal fait mull not be too hotj becaufe, in 
 that cafe, the volatile fpirit of the latter would 
 evaporate too quickly, and the cryftals of tartar, 
 being thence converted into foluble tartar, lofc 
 their property. 
 
 The fam.e effeft may be produced by ufing 
 the cochineal Jyhejire, or campajfianne^ inllead 
 of fine cochineal; nor is the colour inferior 
 provided you put in a fufficient quajitityj for, 
 
 5 i». 
 
DYING WOOL. 149 
 
 ki general, four parts of cochintdX fyhejire has 
 • no more effe6t in dying than one part of fine cochi- 
 neal. You may even employ the cochineal Jyl~ 
 vejlre in fcarlet, but then it Ihould be ufed with 
 great precaution, and it were even better not to 
 ufe it but for half fcarlets or half crimfons. I 
 Jhall mention this more fully when fpeaking of 
 thefe colours in particular. 
 
 When fcarlet is fpotted, either in the opera- 
 ration, or by fome unforefeen accident, or even 
 when the dye has failed, the common method 
 is to dye it crimfon ; which is done by dipping it 
 into afolution containing two pounds of alum to 
 about a hundred pounds of wool. In this it is 
 immediately dipped, where it is fuffered to 
 remain till it has acquired the crimfon fhade you 
 defire. 
 
 The following is the prefent method in Lan- 
 guedoc, where they make a very beautiful kind of 
 crimfon cloth which they export to the Levant; 
 but which is not fo deeply crimfoned as that I 
 have been mentioning, and which comes much 
 nearer to the Venetian Scarlet. 
 
 For five pieces of cloth the liquor is prepared 
 as ufual, adding bran if ncceffary. When it is 
 a little better than warm, they add ten pounds of 
 fea-falt inftead of cryftals of tartar; and when 
 ready to boil, they pour into it twenty-feven 
 pounds of the compofition for fcarlet, made ac- 
 cording to the CarcaiTionne method, without any 
 addition of cochineal; the cloth is kept in the li- 
 quor for two hours, keeping the reel conftantly 
 turning, and the liquor boiling. It is then taken 
 out, opened, and rinced at the river; a new liquor is 
 L 3 then 
 
I5P THEARTOF 
 
 then made with eight pounds and three quarter^ 
 of cochineal well pulveriled and fifted ; when rea- 
 dy to boil you throw into it one and twenty 
 pounds of the compofition. In this dye the cloth 
 Jhould boil, with the ufual precaution, for 
 three quarters of an hourj after which it is 
 taken out, opened, and waflied. It is a very 
 fine crin^ifon, though not very deep. If you 
 require it deeper, you put a good deal of alum 
 into the firft liquor, or preparation, and in 
 the fecond lefs of the compofition : you alfo add 
 fome fea-falt to the fecond liquor. Experience 
 will teach you foon how to produce every poffible 
 Ihade of crimfon. 
 
 After the various operations mentioned in the 
 two preceding chapters, there will be in the 
 bottom of the finifliing liquor a confiderable 
 brown fedimenr, which is thrown out as ufelefs.- 
 This I ordered to be brought to me for exami- 
 nation, and found that the fediment, which 
 remained after fcarlet, contained a precipitated 
 calx of tin. 
 
 I have even revived the metal, though I 
 Tnuft confefs with great trouble, fo that there can 
 •be no advantage in the repetition of what I have 
 done. The remaining particles of this fediment 
 were the dregs of the cream of tartar united 
 with the grofs animal particles of the cochineal, 
 which, as I have before faid, is a little infeft. 
 Thefe little animal particles I walhed in cold 
 water, and, agitating the veflel, gathered with 
 a fmall fieve what was thrown to the furface by 
 the motion of the water. In this manner I di- 
 vided the light particles from thofe which were 
 
 earthy 
 
DYING WOOL. tsi 
 
 earthy and metallic. They were dryed feparately, 
 and afterwards bruifed with an equal weight of 
 cryilals of tartar ; when reduced to an impalpa- 
 ble powder, I had a part of it boiled with a 
 little alum, and fuffered a pattern of white cloth 
 to remain in this -toiling folution for three quar- 
 ters of an hour, at the expiration of which time, 
 it was taken out a very beautiful crimfon. From 
 this experiment I am convinced that the common 
 cuftom of reducing the cochineal to powder, and 
 only fifting it, does not fufficiently extra6t the whole 
 that may be obtained from this precious drug; 
 and I think it incumbent on me, in this place, 
 to mention this experiment for the advantage of 
 thofe Dyers who will be tradable enough to avail 
 themfelves of the difcovery. 
 
 For example, I take an ounce of cochineal, 
 pulverifed and fifted as ufualj I add to this a' 
 quarter of its weight of cream of tartar, very 
 white, very clear, and very dry. Thefe being 
 ground on a painter's marble to an impalpable 
 powder, I ufe it both in iht preparation and in the 
 ^ye, omitting in the preparation the fmall propor- 
 tion of the cryftals of tartar which was added to 
 the cochineal. What I put to the dye, though 
 mixed with a quarter of the fame fait, fo far 
 from injuring the colour makes it evidently 
 more fixed. 
 
 L 4 CHAR 
 
15:? THE ART OF 
 
 CHAP. XV, 
 Of Gum Lac Scarlet. 
 
 ^nr^HE red particles of Gum Lac is alfo ufec^ 
 -*• for dying Scarlet, and though the cplouK 
 may not be quite as bright as that obtained fronq 
 fine cochineal only, it has the advantage of being 
 more permanent. 
 
 The Gum Lac moft efteemed for dying, is in 
 the form of branches, becaufe moftfurnifned 
 with animal particles. That which is redded in the 
 infide, and at the outfide rather ablackifh brown, 
 is the bell. It appeared from a particular exa- 
 mination of Mr. GeofFrie's, made fome years ago, 
 to be a kind of comb, refembling in fonne de- 
 gree that ufually produced by bees and other 
 infe6ts. It is fometimes ufed for dying ftuffs, 
 pulverifed and tied up in a linen bag; but this 
 is a bad method, as fome part of the gum-refin, 
 being melted by the boiling water, efcapes 
 through the linen, and fo clofely adheres to the 
 cloth when cold that you are obliged to fcrape it 
 off with a knife. Others reduce it to powder, 
 boil it in water, and when it has communicated 
 all its colour, let it ftand to cool : the refinous 
 particles fall to the bottom. The coloured water 
 is then evaporated in the air, where it frequently 
 becomes putrid. When it has acquired the con- 
 fidence of fyrup it is preferved in veffels. Under 
 this formic is difficult to determine the precife 
 quantity, and therefore I endeavoured to find a 
 method of feparating the colour from the gum- 
 
 refin^ 
 
DYING WOOL. 153 
 
 r.efin, without the neceffity of evaporating fo 
 Jarge a quantity of water. 
 
 I fhall not mention the variety of experiments 
 which I made with weak lime water, with a decoc- 
 tion of the heart oiJgariCi and with a decodlion of 
 the root of Birth-'-jJort, recommended in an an- 
 cient difpenfatory i becaufe, though the water 
 left a part of the colour which it had imbibed 
 on the philtering paper, it was neverthelefs too 
 much coloured, and therefore it was neceflary to 
 evaporate in order to procure all the colour. To 
 avoid thffs evaporation I had recourfe to mucila« 
 ginous roots, which of themfelves yield no 
 colour, but whofe mucilage retains the colouring 
 particles in fuch a manner as to remain with it on 
 the philtre. 
 
 I have hitherto fucceeded befl with the 
 Comfrey-root. I ufe it dried and made into 
 a grofs powder, half a drachm to a quart 
 of water, letting it boil for a quarter of an hour; 
 I then drain it through a linen cloth, and pour ic 
 quite hot on the Gum Lac, pulverifed and 
 fxfted through a hair fieve. It immediately 
 acquires a fine crimfon colour. I put the vef- 
 fel to digeft in a moderate heat for twelve 
 hours, obferving to flir the gum which remains 
 at the bottom feven or eight times. I afterwards 
 decant the water impregnated with this colour 
 into a veflel large enough to contain four times 
 the quantity, which I fill with cold water. I 
 then add a very fmall quantity of a ftrong folu- 
 tion of Roman alum. The coloured muci- 
 lage precipitates J but, if the water ftill re- 
 mains coloured^ I add fome drops of the folu- 
 
 tion 
 
154 THEARTOF 
 
 tion of alum to complete the precipitation, pro- 
 ceeding in this manner till the water becomes 
 colourlefs. When the crimfon mucilage is 
 entirely funk to the bottom, I draw off the clear 
 water with a fyphon ; the remainder I philtre, 
 and when perfectly drained caufe it to be dried 
 in the fun. 
 
 If the firft mucilaginous water does not fuffici- 
 cntly extract the colour from the Gum Lac, fo as 
 to leave the gum a pale ftraw colour, I add fome 
 more, boiling hot, repeating everything that I had 
 done in the firft extradion. In this mannA- 1 fepa- 
 rate all the colour that it is capable of furnifliing; 
 but as I had it dried and then pulverifed, I know 
 the whole that may be obtained from this gum, 
 and am alfo better enabled to judge of my quan- 
 tities in dying than thofe who are fatisfied with the 
 extrad procured by evaporation, as that which is 
 moft compact will contain moft colour. 
 
 The beft chofen Lac, detached from its 
 branches, yield little more than a fifth part of 
 its weight in colour. Hence, confidering the 
 price which it bears at prefent, the advantage of 
 fubftituting it in the place of cochineal is not 
 fo great. 
 
 To dye Scarlet with the Gum-Lac colour, 
 cxtrafted according to my method, and reduced 
 to powder, requires a peculiar precaution in 
 the diluting; for by putting it into the water 
 when ready to boil, as you do the cochineal, 
 you lofe three quarters of an hour before it 
 entirely diflblves. To be more expeditious, I 
 put the quantity of this dry powder, defigned 
 for ufe, in an earthen, or block tin vefTel; I 
 
 then 
 
DYING WOOL. 155 
 
 then pour on it fome hot wp.ter, and when well 
 moir(.ened, add the rcquifite quantity of the 
 Scarlet coinpor'tion, ftirring the mixture with a 
 glafs peftle. This powder, which was before a 
 dark dirty purple, acquires in the fblution a fire 
 colour red cxtteamly brighc. I pour the folu- 
 tion into the liquor, to which I had previoufly 
 diilblved cryftals of tartar, <ind as foon as the 
 liquor begins to boil 1 dip the cloth, turn- 
 ing and re-turning it according to the ufual 
 method. The remainder of the operation is 
 performed in the fame manner as with cochineal. 
 I fancied only that the extrad: of the Gum-Lac, 
 prepared according to my method, furnifhed 
 about a ninth part more of colour than the cochi- 
 neal} at lead more than the cochineal which I 
 ufed in the comparifon. 
 
 If you fubftitute a fixed alkaline fait, or 
 lime water, for cryftals of tartar, the brighc 
 red of the Gum-Lac will be changed to the 
 colour of the lees of wine. Hence this 
 colour does not fo eafily crimfon as that of the 
 cochineal. 
 
 If inftead of thefe alterants you fubftitute fal- 
 ammoniac only, you will have cinnamon colours, 
 or light marone, according as you add more or 
 lefs of this fait. 
 
 I have befides made twenty other experiments 
 with this drug, which I fhall not mention, as 
 they produced nothing but fuch common colours 
 as may be' more eafily obtained from cheaper 
 ingredients ; as I meant only toimprove thr red 
 colour of the Lac, I have been the more explicit 
 in the method of extra<fting its colouring par- 
 ticles. 
 
156 THE ART OF 
 
 tides, becaufe the greater the variety of ingre- 
 dients for dying Scarlet, the lefs will be its price. 
 In fhort, all thefe experiments refpeding the 
 cochineal, Lac, and other drugs, apparently of 
 fuch little ufe to the Dyers, are of fome confe- 
 quence to the philofoper* in his enquiry into the 
 caufes of the change of colours. From what I 
 have already faid, it is evident that this fubjeft 
 is inexhauftible. [The colouring particles of the 
 Gura-Lac may be e::tra^ed by water onlyy without 
 any other additioti. The water Jhould be rather more 
 than warm, and the pulverij'ed Lac pit into a woolen 
 hagy and then trod in the copper. The intelligent 
 Pyer will know how to improve upon this.'\ 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 0/"//5'<f Coccus PoLONicus, a colouring inJeSl, 
 
 TH E Coccus Polonicus is a little round infed", 
 rather fmaller than a grain of coriander 
 feed j it adheres to the root of the Polygonum Cocci- 
 ferum incamim flore majore perenni of Ray, and 
 which Mr. Tournefort has called Alchimilla gra- 
 mineo folio majore fiore. According to Mr. Breyn 
 it is very abundant in the palatinate of Kiovia, near 
 the Ukraine, near the cities of Ludnow, Piarka, 
 Stobdyfzcze, and in other defert or fandy places 
 in the Ukraine of Podolia, Volhinia, die grand 
 Duchy of Lithuania, and even in Pruffia, towards 
 Thorn. Thofe who gather it know that it is ripe 
 and full of purple juice immediately after thefum- 
 mer folftice. They have a hollow fpadewitha fhort 
 
 handle 
 
DYING WOOL. ff57 
 
 handle. "With one hand they take hold of the 
 plant, and with this tool in the other hand they 
 raife it out of the ground; they then detach 
 this fpecies of little berries or round infe<5ls, * 
 and replace the plant in the fame hole that it 
 may not be deftroyed; this is done with admi- 
 rable quicknefs and dexterity. Having fepa- 
 rated the Coccus from the earth, by means of 
 a riddle for that purpofe, they are careful to 
 prevent them from turning into worms by fprink- 
 ling them with vinegar, and fometimes alfo 
 with the coldeft water; they then put them in 
 a warm place, or expofe them to the fun in 
 order to dry and kill them, but with precaution, 
 as by drying them too precipitately they would 
 be fpoilt and lofc their fine colour. They fome- 
 times feparate thefe little infers from their vefi- 
 cles by prefllng them gently with the fingers, 
 they then form them into little round balls. The 
 Dyers purchafe it at a much dearer rate when made 
 into balls than when in grain. Bernard de Ber- 
 nith, from whofe difTertation I have tranfcribed 
 the above, adds, that the grand Marlhal Konit- 
 Ipolki, and fome other Polonian lords who had 
 pofiTefiions in the Ukraine, farmed out the harveft 
 of the Coccus to the Jews: that the Turks 
 and Armenians, who bought this drug of the 
 Jews, ufed it for dying wool^ filk, the tails and 
 mains of their horfes; that with it the Turkifh 
 women dyed the tops of their fingers a very 
 beautiful carnation colour; and alfo, that the 
 Dutch formerly bought it' very dear, and ufed 
 it with an equal quantity of cochineal: that 
 with the colour of this infe6l and chalk may 
 
 be 
 
tsS THEARTOF 
 
 be made a"painter*s lac, equal to that of Florence^ 
 and that with it was prepared a beautiful rouge 
 for the toilettes of the French and Spanifli 
 ladies. 
 
 Whether thefe various properties be exagge- 
 rated, or whether the Coccus exported from 
 Dantzick was fpoiled, I never could, though 
 ufed in the fame manner as the cochineal or 
 kermes, procure any other than lilach, flefhcolouTj 
 or crimfons, more or lefs bright j nor could I 
 with all my endeavours, make it produce a 
 Scarlet; befides, I found it much more expenfive 
 than the fined cochineal, as it did not yield a 
 6fth part of the colour. This is the reafon, 
 probably, that the commerce of this drug is fo 
 jmuch fallen, and that the name of the Coccus 
 is fcarce known in moft of the European cities, 
 remarkable for having good dyers. 
 
 CHAP. XVII. 
 ^ Of Madder Red. 
 
 TH E Madder root is the only part of thii 
 plant ufed in dying, and is the moil per- 
 manent of all reds, if applyed after the 
 wool or llufF has been well fcoured, and 
 afterwards prepared with the falls, with v/hich 
 it fliould boil during three quarters of an hour? 
 otherwife this red, fo tenacious, after the 
 preparation of the fubjed^ will bear trials 
 no better than ;he red of other ingredients 
 cf the falfe dye. Hence it is evident 
 4 not 
 
DYING WOOL. i5() 
 
 not Only that the pores of the fibres of 
 the wool fhould be well fcoured from the 
 oily perfpiration of the animal, which may re- 
 main even after the common fcouring with 
 water and urine; but that it is likewife neceffary 
 that the fame pores be internally coated with 
 what I call hard falts, becaufe they are neither 
 calcined by the air, nordiflblved by rain, or by the 
 moifture of the air in rainy weather: Thefe 
 are crude white tartar, the red and the cryftals 
 of tartar, of which it is ufual to put about one 
 quarter in the bouillon or preparation, with two 
 thirds, or three quarters of Roman alum. ' 
 
 The fineil root is generally imported from 
 Zealand, where this plant is cultivated in the 
 iflands of Tergoes, Zirzee, Sommerdycl^ and 
 Thoolen. That which comes from the firft 
 of thefe iflands is moil elleemed ; the foil being 
 clayey, fat, and fomewhat faiine. The lands 
 generally preferred for this culture, are frelli 
 lands, that have never been ploughed. The 
 Zealanders are obliged for the culture of this 
 plant, and for the great advantage refuking 
 from the commerce of this root, to the refugees 
 of Flanders. 
 
 Madder is diftinguifhed in trade, and amangft 
 dyers, by the different appellations of grape 
 madder, bunch madder, &c. it is nevertheiefs 
 the fame root : the only difference is, that the 
 grafe is the heart of the root, and the 
 other confifts of befides the heart, the bark 
 and fmall fibres proceeding from the prin- 
 cipal root. The preparation of them both 
 require t!ie fame procefs, which I fhall not now 
 
 relate. 
 
iSa THE ARlT OF 
 
 relate, as it would be only extending this work- 
 to no purpofe. It confifts in picking \>ut the 
 fineft roots for the firft fort, in drying them 
 with certain precautions, in feparating the bark 
 at the mill, and in preferring the infide of the 
 root moift in cafks, where it fhould re- 
 main two or three years, when it will be 
 better for dying than if newly ground. If 
 madder be not kept clofe in this manner it 
 will fpoil, and in a great meafure lofe its vivacity. 
 It is at firft yellow-, but becomes red and darker 
 as it grows old. Madder fiiould be chofen of 
 a fine fafFron colour, in very hard lumps, and 
 of a very ftrong fmell, though not difagreeable. 
 It is alfo cultivated in the fuburbs of Lifie in 
 Flanders, and in many other parts of the kingdom 
 where it is known to grow wild. 
 
 The madder iifed in the Levant, and in the 
 Indies for dying cottons, is in fome refpedts 
 different from that ufed in Europe. On the 
 coaft of Coromandel it is called CbaL This 
 plant grows wild in the woods on the coaft of 
 Malabar. That which is cultivated is imported 
 from Faour and Tuccoriiiy but the moft efteemed 
 is the Perfian Chat, called Dumas. 
 
 They alfo gather on the coaft of Coromandel 
 the root of another plant, called Raye de chaye^ or 
 colour-root, fuppofed to be a fpecies of madder 
 root, but which is a fpecies Q>i Galium flore albo, as 
 we are informed by the Memoirs tranfmitted 
 from India in 1748, This is a long flender 
 root, and gives cotton, after it has received the 
 neceflary preparation, a tolerable fine red colour. 
 
 At 
 
DYING WOOL. i6i 
 
 At Kurder, in the neighbourhood of Smyrna, 
 and in the country of Ak-hijfar and 2^ordaSj they 
 cultivate another fpecies of madder, called in 
 that country Chive-boy a, Ckme Hazala. It is, 
 according to fome experiments, the beft of all 
 madders for dying red, and is therefore more 
 eftcemed in the L-evant than the fine Zealand 
 madder carried thither by the Dutch. This 
 madder, ^o greatly efteemed, is called by the 
 modern Greeks Lizari, and by the Arabs Fonoy. 
 \T^hef8 madders J becaufs dryed in the air, and not 
 in jlovesy give a much better colour than the jinejl 
 Zealand grapfe madder, The madder of LanguedoCf 
 end even that of Foitou, when dryed without fire, 
 Jucceeds as well as the Lizari. '\ 
 
 There is likewife another fpecies of madder 
 brought from Canada, and there called Tyjfa- 
 Voyana : the root is extremely flender, and pro- 
 duces nearly the fame effed as the European 
 madder. 
 
 The preparation for Madder Red is pretty 
 much the fame as for the red of kermesj it 
 is always made with alum and tartar. With 
 regard to the proportions, dyers are not per- 
 fectly agreed; for my part I put five ounces of 
 alum, and one ounce of red tartar, to every 
 pound of worfted; I alfo add about a twelfth 
 part of four water, and in this liquor I 
 let the wool boil for two full hours. If worfted, 
 I keep it well moiftened for feven or eight days 
 with this folution ; but, if cloth, I finiih in four 
 days. I prepare for dying this wool afrelh liquor, 
 and when the water is fo hot as to bear 
 your hand in it, I throw in, for every pound of 
 
 M wool. 
 
i62 THE ART OF 
 
 wool, half a pound of the finefl: Madder, care- 
 fully ftirring and mixing it well in the copper 
 before I put in the wool, which I keep in it for 
 an hour, without letting it boil, as that would 
 tarnilh the colour. Neverthelefs, for the Dyer's 
 better fecurity it may boil for three or four 
 minutes at the conclufion of the operation. \Jt^ 
 more Madder is boiled y the worje the colour it yields, "l 
 
 For fhades of Madder you proceed as I have 
 already diredled for other colours j but thefc 
 fhades are feldom required ^ a gradation of 
 thefe not being necelTary except for mixt 
 colours: there are, however, a very confiderable 
 number of Grain colours which muft have a 
 Madder ground. 
 
 If you have feveral pieces of cloth to dye at 
 the fame time, you proceed in the fame manner, 
 only increafing the quantity of the ingredients in 
 proportion to my direflionsj remembering, con- 
 Itantly, that in fmall operations there fhould be 
 fomewhat more than a proportionable quantity 
 of the ingredients, not only with refpeft to the 
 red of Madder but to all other colours. 
 
 Thefe reds are never fo beautiful as the red 
 of kermes, and much inferior to thofe of the 
 lac and cochineal j but they coft lefs, and are con- 
 fequently ufed for common fluffs, the price of 
 which is too low to bear the expence of a dearer 
 colour. The greateft part of the reds worn by 
 the infantry and cavalry are generally dyed with 
 Madder, and crimfoned with archil or brafil 
 wood (drugs of the falfe dye) but which make 
 them much finer and improves the nap; 
 whereas this advantage could not be procured by 
 
 means 
 
DYING WOOL. 163 
 
 means of the cochineal without greatly increaf- 
 ing the price of the (luff. 
 
 I have already obferved, that Madden applied 
 to fluffs, before they have been prepared in a folu- 
 tion of alum and tartar, will colour them it is 
 true, but then the colour will be uneven and 
 not permanent, therefore it is the falts which 
 fix the colour : this is common to all colours j 
 confequently red or yellow is not to be obtained 
 without this preparation. The queftion is, whe- 
 ther, by fimply extrafling the oily perfpiration 
 of the Iheep, the pores are prepared to receive 
 more immediately the colouring particles; or 
 rather, whether a part of thefe falts, efpecially 
 of the two which cannot be diffolved even 
 by warm water, remains in them in order to 
 attach and fecure the colouring atoms, the pores 
 being opened or dilated for their reception 
 by the heat of the water, and afterwards, 
 in order to retain them, contradled by the 
 cold. For the convidion of thofe prejudiced 
 in favour of the lirfl opinion, let them fubfli- 
 tute in the place of alum and tartar, any alkaline 
 falts, fuch as pot-afb, or lixivium of oak-afhes, 
 in a proper quantity fo as not to diffolve 
 the wool; and after this preparation the fluffs, 
 being dipped in the Madder Vat, will take the 
 colour; but then this colour is fo entirely unfixed, 
 that boiling water only will carry off at leaft 
 three-fourths of the dye. Now it is impoffible 
 to fay that fixed alkaline fait is incapable of 
 cleanfmg the pores of the wool of its animal fat, 
 fince lixivial falts are ufed with fuccefs in feve- 
 ral cdes, where it is neceffary to extrad that fat 
 M 2 from 
 
\ 
 
 164 THEARTOF 
 
 from ffufis, of whatfoever kind they be, which 
 water alonewill not wafh off. It is well known that 
 the extraneous fat and alkaline falts produce a 
 kind of foap, which is afterwards eafily wafhed 
 out with Water. 
 
 i ' Take a hit of cloth dyed in the red of Mad- 
 der, according to the common method, letting it 
 boil for fome time in a folution of a fmall quantity 
 of fixed alkali, you will in this manner deftroy the 
 colours for the fixed alkali uniting with the mi- 
 nute atoms of the cryftals of tartar, by which the 
 pores of the fibres of the wool are lined, produces 
 a foluble tartar which it is well known eafily dif- 
 folves in water; confequently the pores being 
 opened by the boiling water of the experiment, 
 tlie colouring atoms are thereby extraded, toge- 
 ther with the faline atoms by which they were 
 attached. This (luff being wafhed in water, 
 the remaining red colour is therein diluted and 
 becomes a dirty fawn colour. If inftead of alka- 
 line fait you ufe foap, which is an alkaline fait 
 combined with oil, and for fome minutes boil in 
 it another pattern, which had been alfo dyed a 
 Madder Red, this red becomes more beautiful; 
 becaufe the alkali, which in the foap is enveloped 
 with the oil, cannot pofiibly attack the vege- 
 table acid fait : the boiling only carries off^ the 
 loofe colouring particles, and their number being 
 diminifhed, what remains will appear lefs loaded, 
 or lighter. 
 
 1 fay further, as an additional proof of the exift- 
 ence of the falts in the pores of the wool of a 
 ftufF boiled in the preparation, before it was 
 dyed with Madder, that with this root, by put- 
 ting 
 
DYING WOOL. 165 
 
 ting in more or lefs tartar, you procure an infinite 
 variety, not only of (hades but even of colours; 
 for, by diminifliing the quantity of alum and 
 augmenting that of the tartar, you produce a 
 cinnamon colour j but, if you put nothing into 
 the preparation but tartar, the red is deflroyed, 
 and you obtain only a deep cinnamon or fawn 
 colour, but nevcrthelefs of the good dye; 
 becaufe the crude tartar, being an acid fait, dif- 
 folves the red particles in fuch a manner, that 
 there remains but a very fmall quantity with the 
 woody fibres of the root, which, like all com- 
 mon roots, yields only a fawn colour, more or 
 lefs deep in proportion to the quantity employed. 
 I have already demonftrated that the acid moil 
 enlivening to reds will alfo deftroy them, if the 
 quantity be too great, by dividing them into 
 particles of fuch extreme tenuity that they arc 
 imperceptible. 
 
 If in the alum preparation for fluffs to be 
 dyed in Madder, you ufe infleadof tartar, which 
 is a hard fait, a fait eafily foluble, as, for example, 
 faltpetre, the greateft part of the red becomes 
 ufelefs; it difappears, and you have only a cin- 
 namon colour, very bright indeed, but not fuf- 
 ficiently folid to ftand the tefl, becaufe the two 
 falts ufed in the preparation are not fo firm as 
 the tartar. 
 
 The volatile urinous alkalies which develope 
 the red particles from certain plants, fuch as 
 perilla, archil, and moiTes, or lichens, which, 
 a priori, could not have been fufpefted, deve- 
 lope alfo the red of the Madder root ; but they 
 9X. the fame time communicate their volatility to 
 M 3 fuch 
 
i66 THE ART OF 
 
 fuch a degree, then when I ufe this Madder, 
 prepared in the fame manner as the archil 
 with fermented urine and quick lime, I could 
 procure only a nut brown, either light or dark ; 
 but neverrhelefs durable, becaufe the fmall quan- 
 tity of volatile alkali which moiftened the Madr 
 der, evaporated in the boiling. 
 
 When you apply a pure red, fuch as the red 
 of cochineal, to a cloth previoufly dyed blue, 
 and afterwards prepared by a folution of alum 
 and tartar, in order to receive and retain the 
 red, you produce either a purple or violet colour, 
 in proportion to your quantity either of the blue 
 or of the pure red. But the Madder has a dif- 
 ferent effedl, becaufe not pure like the red of 
 cochineal, and befides, as I have already obferved, 
 it is fpoiled by the fawn tinge of the woody 
 fibres of the root. Hence this red, tarnifhed 
 by the colour of the root, produces with the 
 blue a marone, more or lefs dark, according to 
 the intenfity of the blue firft applied. To give 
 this marone colour a purple calt, and to confirm 
 it in grainy you mud neceffarily ufe a little cq- 
 chineal. 
 
 To avoid the colour of the root, the beil 
 Madder Dyers are very careful not to make ufe 
 of the dye too hot, and to take out their fluff a 
 minute or fwo after it begins to boili for if it 
 boils rnore, the Madder is confiderably tar- 
 nifhedj the heat of the water being then fuffi- 
 cint to detach the fawn colour particles, lb that 
 they are applied with thofe of the red. This 
 evil may be avoided if, while the Madder root 
 js frefli, you can contrive, without much difHr 
 
 pulty^ 
 
DYING WOOL. 167 
 
 culty, to feparate from the reft of the root the 
 red circle under the brown Ikin, by which 
 the pith of the infide is encompafled. But as 
 this procefs enhances the price of the ingredient, 
 as it requires patience, and after all is never 
 equal to the cochineal, it is therefore hardly 
 worth while to attempt it in the great. It may 
 however be ufeful in dying cottons, the price of 
 which will bear the expence of this preparation. 
 
 Madder being the cheapeft of all fubftances 
 employed for the good dye, it is ufeful for 
 mixing with others, and thereby diminifiiing the 
 expence. Half fcarlet, otherwife half-grain, 
 is produced with Madder and kermes, and the 
 common half fcarlets and half crimfons, with 
 Madder and cochineal. 
 
 To make half-grain fcarlet you proceed with 
 the preparation and with the reft of the operation 
 as if for the fcarlet of kermes in grain, only that 
 in the fecond decoftion you put but half the 
 quantity of the kermes, and the other half of 
 the beft Madder. 
 
 For half fire coloured fcarlet, or fcarlet of Gob- 
 lins, the compofition and preparation are made 
 as ufual. To this you put the pure cochineal 
 only 3 but in the reddening or finifh, you put half 
 cochineal and half Madder. In this cafe you 
 may alfo ufe cochineal Jyhejire ; for having 
 made the preparation with common cochineal, 
 if you dye a quantity of wool, as for com- 
 mon fcarlet, you muft put in the reddening 
 two pounds of cochineal ; but it would be 
 fufEcient to put half a pound of common 
 M 4. cochineal, 
 
i68 THEARTOF 
 
 cochineal, a pound and half of cochineal com* 
 
 paiTienne, or fylveflre, and a pound of Madder. 
 
 To dye wool ^nd ftuffs as even as poflible, it 
 is abfolutely necefrary that each of the cochi- 
 neals be well ground and fifted as well as the 
 Madder, with which they Ihould be perfedlly 
 incorporated before they are thrown into the 
 decoftion. This ihould be obferved with regard 
 to all colours requiring a mixture of feveral 
 ingredients. The half fcarlet is finilhed as the 
 common fcarlet, and faddened in the fame 
 manner, either with boiling water or alum. 
 
 Half crimfon is alfo produced in the fame man* 
 ner as common crimfon, adding only half Mad- 
 der and half cochineal. Cochineal Jylvefire 
 may alfo be ufed, obferving only to retrench 
 half of the common cochineal, fupplying its 
 place with three tim^es the quantity oi Jylvejire; 
 but if you increafe the quantity of the fylveftre, 
 and at the fame time diminifh the other, the 
 colour will not be fo fine. 
 
 If you require inferior Ihades of all thefe 
 colours, and that you are obliged to match them 
 to patterns, the proportion of Madder and Cochi- 
 neal may be augmented or diminifhed. Hence 
 is is impoflible to give any fixed rules concerning 
 |his particular^ but from what has been already 
 faid, it will not be difficult to difcover the belt 
 method of fucceeding. 
 
 I Ihall finifh this chapter with an experiment, 
 from which 1 have obtained a tolerable purple 
 without the help of cochineal j and alfo without 
 having previouily given the cloth a blue dye, 
 I boiled a bit of cloth, weighing about half an 
 
 ounce. 
 
DYING WOOL. 169 
 
 ounce, with fix grains of Roman alum and fix 
 grains of cryftals of tartar. At the expiration 
 of half an hour I took it out, fqueezed it, let 
 it cool, and then added to the dccodion twenty- 
 four grains pf gmpet or beft Madder: when 
 it had yield^ its colour to this water, yet im- 
 pregnated \M[\ falts, I dropped into it twenty 
 drops of the| folution of bifmuth, made with 
 an equal quantity of water and fpirit of nitrci 
 into this liquor I re-plunged the cloth, which 
 in half an hour I took out, fqueezed, and wafhed. 
 It appeared to be fufficiently complete 3 never- 
 thelefs, to afcertain the difference which might 
 be produced by an augmentation of the dye, 
 I plunged it into the fame decoftion, and letting 
 it boil for a quarter of an hour longer, obtained 
 a purple tolerably bright. When tried by the 
 proof of alum, it became brighter and more 
 beautiful ; and when tried with foap, it re- 
 mains a much finer red than the common Mad- 
 der red. 
 
 By keeping the cloth for feveral days moid 
 in its preparation of alum and tartar, and then 
 dying it in a frefh decoftion of Madder without 
 falts, according to the ufual method, until it had 
 imbibed a bright cinnamon colour, and having 
 afterwards added to the liquor the fame folu- 
 tion of bifmuth, I have obtained only a marone 
 colour. This fhews the neceflity of being accu- 
 rate in prefcribing rules for dying, and that for 
 want of this accuracy the books publifhed on 
 this art have been hitherto ufelefs. 
 
 In this fecond experiment the cloth had im« 
 jjibed too much of the falts ; and in the decoc- 
 tion 
 
iro THEARTOF 
 
 tion for dying, there was none.. The want of 
 the alum prevented the purple from appearing ; 
 becaufe the white earth of this fait was wanting 
 to precipitate with the difTolved particles of the 
 bifmuth, which, as I haye Ihown in my chapter 
 of kermes, carry with them the blue particles 
 of the fmak conftantly exifting in the mineral of 
 bifmuth, a portion of which probably unites with 
 this femi-metal in the melting. This mutual 
 precipitation is produced in the operation of dying 
 by means of the aftringency of the wpody par- 
 ticles of the Madder root. 
 
 CHAP. XVIIL 
 Of Yelloiv, 
 
 'TpHERE are ten fpecies of drugs for dying 
 •*' Yellow J but we find from experience 
 that of thefe ten there are only five fit to be 
 ufed for the good dye : neverthelefs, as yellow 
 is a common colour in nature, there is no 
 reafon why feveral others Ibould not be added 
 to thefe five. I fliall at prefent, ■ however, 
 fpeak of thefe five only, 'viz. Weld, Savory, 
 Green-wood, Yellow wood, andFenugrec, becaufe 
 thefe are of the good dye. The three firft plants 
 are very common in the environs of Paris, and 
 in moft of the provinces of that kingdom. 
 The Bois JaunCy or yellow wood, comes from 
 the Indies, and the Finugrec is common every 
 where, 
 
 Th« 
 
DYING WOOL. 171 
 
 Weld or wold yields the trueft Yellow, 
 and is generally preferred to all the others. 
 Savory and green-wood, being naturally greenifli, 
 are the beft for the preparation of wool to 
 be dyed green; the two others yield different 
 ihades of Yellow. 
 
 The fhades of Yellow, beft known in the 
 Art of Dying, are ftraw colour, pale Yellow, 
 lemon colour, and full Yellow. The common ' 
 orange colours are not fimple, and therefore I 
 Ihall not fpeak of them at prefent. 
 
 For dying worded and fluffs Yellow, you make 
 ufc of the ufual preparation, viz. of tartar and 
 alum. You allow four ounces of alum to 
 every pound of wool, or twenty five pounds 
 to every hundred. With regard to the 
 tartar, one ounce to every pound is fufficient 
 for Yellow, though it requires two for red. 
 The method of boiling is fimilar to the pre- 
 ceding. For the welding, that is to fay for 
 yellowing, when the wool or fluff has boiled, 
 you make a frefli liquor, allowing five or 
 fix pounds of weld to every pound of fluff; 
 fome inclofe the weld in a clean woolen 
 bag, to prevent it from mixing in the fluff; 
 and to keep the bag down in the copper they 
 put on it a crofs of heavy wood. Others boil 
 it in the liquor till it has communicated all 
 its colour, and till it falls to the bottom; the 
 fluff is then fufpended in the net, which falls 
 into the liquor; but others, when it has boiled, 
 take out the weld with a rake, and throw it 
 away. They fometimes mix yellow wood with 
 $his weld 5 and fome dyers mix any of the other 
 
 ingredients 
 
172 THEARTOF 
 
 ingredients, before fpecified, according to the 
 Ihade required. By varying the proportions 
 of th€ falts for the preparation, the quantity 
 of the colouring ingredient, and the time of 
 boiling, I am convinced that it is poflible to pro- 
 duce an infinite variety of Ihades. I know it from 
 my own experience, and from the experiments 
 which I made with the flower of the virga aurea 
 CanadienfiSj which would be a ufeful acquifition 
 in the Art of Dying, fhould any one think it 
 worth their while to cultivate this plant, as it 
 throws out many fuckers, which are eafily tranf- 
 planted. 
 
 For regular fliades of light Yellows you pro- 
 ceed as for all other regular fhadcs, only that 
 light Yellows require a weaker preparation. 
 For example, twelve pounds and a half of alum 
 to a hundred pounds of wool is fufficient. The 
 tartar fhould alfo be diminiflied, becaufe the 
 wool is always wafled a little by the preparation, 
 and that when you require only light fhades 
 they may be as eafily obtained by a weaker 
 preparation; thus you fave alfo in the expence 
 of the falts. But thcfe light fhades do not fo 
 well Hand the tefl as the darker fhades, which are 
 dyed with the full proportion of tartar. Some dyers 
 fuppofe that by letting their wool and fluff remain 
 longer in the dye, they remedy this evil j becaufethey 
 imbibe the colour more flowly in proportion to 
 the weaknefs of the deco6lion : if you put wool 
 into the dye, differently prepared, it will in the 
 fame time imbibe different fhades. Thefe weaker 
 preparations are called \\^\^ preparations or quar- 
 ter preparations, and require great attention, 
 5 '' efpecially 
 
DYING WOOL. 173 
 
 cfpccially for light fliades of wool when dyed 
 in the fleece for the manufadory of cloth and 
 mixt fluffs, becaufe the wool is harder and more 
 difficult to fpin, in proportion to the quantity 
 of alum in the preparation. The fluff is confe- 
 quently lefs fine. This obfcrvation is not how- 
 ever of much importance with regard to wor- 
 fleds for tapeflry, neither with refped to fluffs; 
 but it is not much amifs were it only to fhew 
 that the quantities of the ingredients, ufed in 
 the preparation, are not fo very exadl j but that 
 they may be varied without any rifque, whether 
 to give the fame fhades to wool, prepared in 
 different preparations, or whether to make but 
 one preparation, if more convenient for different 
 ihades. 
 
 In order to dye with Yellow wood, it fhould 
 be fplit, or rather fhaved with a joyner's plane: 
 by this means it is more divided, confequently 
 yields better, fo that a fmaller quantity will do. 
 Prepare it as you will, it fhould always be tyed 
 up in a bag, to prevent it from mixing with 
 the wool, and from tearing the fluff. The Sa- 
 vory and green- wood, when ufed infleadof weed, 
 in order to vary the fhade, fhould be inclofed in 
 the fame manner. 
 
 The other five ingredients for dying Yellow 
 I clafs with thofe for dying the falfe dye* With 
 regard to the good dye I fliail here mention 
 only the root of the Dock, the bark of 
 afh, efpecially the fecond baric j the leaves 
 of the almond tree, peach, and pear tree; 
 in fhort, all aflringent leaves, barks, and 
 woods. Thefe will produce good Yellows, 
 
 more 
 
174 THEARTOP 
 
 more or lefs fine, according to the tinne they 
 have boiled, and in proportion as the alunn, 
 or tartar, predominates in the preparation. A 
 larger quantity of alum makes it almoft as 
 fine as the yellow of weld ; if the tartar 
 prevails, the Yellow has more of the orange ; 
 but if thefe roots, barks, or leaves, boil too much, 
 the Yellow terminates in fhades of fawn co- 
 lour. 
 
 Though feveral Dyers are accuflomed for the 
 good dye to ufe turmeric, a root imported 
 from the Eaft-Indies, and which produces 
 an orange Yellow, it is however blameable ; 
 becaufe the colour very foon fades, at leaft 
 if not fixt with marine fait, as praftifed by 
 fome Dyers who carefully conceal this art. 
 Thofe who ufe it for common fcarlet, in order to 
 fave cochineal, and to give a lively orange red, 
 are alfo reprehenfible j for, as I have already 
 obferved, fcarlets dyed in this manner very foon 
 loofe their bright orange caft, which darkens 
 by the air. We are, however, obliged in fome 
 degree to tolerate the deception j for this flaming 
 colour being fo much in vogue, it were impof- 
 fible to produce it otherwife, but by increafing 
 the quantity of compofition, the fuperabundant 
 acid of which confiderably injures the cloth. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
DYING WOOL. 175 
 
 CHAP. XIX. 
 
 Of Browfty or Fawn colour, 
 
 'TpHE Fawn colour, root or nut colour, is 
 ■*■ the fourth primitive colour in tlie Dyer's 
 clafs. It is fo clafled, being introduced into 
 a great number of colours. It requires a very- 
 different procefs from the others, becaufe the 
 wool, to be dyed a Fawn colour, has fcarce 
 ever any preparation, otherwife than being foaked 
 in warm water, in the fame manner as for blue. 
 
 For dying Fawn colour you make ufe o{ the 
 green Ihell of the walnut, the root of the 
 walnut tree, the bark of the alder, Santaly Sumac, 
 Roudoul or FoviCj and foot: 
 
 The green fhells of the walnut, collefted 
 when the nuts are perfedjy ripe, and put into 
 tubs or cafks, and afterwards filled with water, 
 are in this manner preferved till the year follow- 
 ing. The fhells are alfo ufed before the nuts 
 are ripe ; but thefe fhould be faved apart, in 
 order to be firfl ufed ; becaufe, as the foft Ihell 
 which adheres putrifies, it will keep but for 
 two months only. 
 
 The Sanial or Saunders is a hard wood imported 
 from the Indies, generally ground into a very fine 
 powder, and preferved in bags j becaufe it is fuppo- 
 fed to ferments by which it is thoughtto be greatly 
 improved; but I have never obferved any dif- 
 ference. This ground wood is generally ufed 
 with one third of Cariatour wood, by which, in 
 the opinion of thofe who prepare it for fale, 
 it is much improved. It is however nothing 
 
 like 
 
176 THE ART OF 
 
 like fo good as the walnut fliells ; becaufe, if 
 iifed in too large a quantity, it ftifFens con- 
 fiderably, and thereby injures the wool; hence 
 it were bed not to ufe it, either for wool or fine 
 Ituffs, except in the (lighter lhades,where it would 
 not havd fo bad effe£t. It is generally mixed 
 with galls, alder bark, and fumach, as by this 
 means only you can obtain its colour when not 
 mixed with the Cariatour. It yields but very 
 little with the preparation of alum and tartar, 
 efpecially if it be not chipped; but, notwith- 
 flanding thefe dcfe<5ls, it is tolerated in the good 
 dye on account of the Iblidity of its colour, 
 which is naturally a yellow red brown. The 
 air makes it deeper, and foap lighter. It lofes 
 but little by atryal of alum, and ftill lefs by tartar. 
 Of all the ingredients for dying Fawn colotirs 
 the walnut rind is the beft. Its Ihades are 
 finer, its colour folid, and by making the wool 
 flexible, renders it lefs difficult to work. It is 
 prepared in the following manner. You fill a 
 cauldron half full of water, and when it grows 
 warm, you add rinds in proportion to the quan- 
 tity of fluffs to be dyed, and to the colour 
 required. It is then boiled, and when it is 
 boiled for a quarter of an hour, the ftuffs, having 
 been previoufly moiftened with warm water, are 
 dipped ; they are then turned and well flirred, 
 till they have imbibed the colour defired. If for 
 worfteds, requiring an exafl afibrtment of 
 Ihades, you put lefs walnut rinds, and begin with 
 the lighteft fhades. You put more walnut rinds 
 in proportion as the colour is exhaufted, and then 
 dip the darkeft Ihades, With regard to ftuffs, you 
 
 generally 
 
t)YING WOOL. 177 
 
 generally begin with the deepeft, and as the 
 colour of the dye diminiflies, you dip the 
 lightcfl. They are aired as ufual, dryed, and 
 drefled. 
 
 The root of the walnut tree is, next to the 
 hufk, the bed dye for Fawn colour : it alfo gives 
 a very great number of fhades, nearly refembling 
 thofc of the hulks ; hence they may be fubftituted 
 for each other, but the root requires a different 
 f>roCefs. You fill your cauldron three quarters 
 full of river water, putting in the root, cut fmall, 
 in proportion to the quantity of wool to be dyed, 
 and to the fhade required. When it is very hot, 
 you dip the wool or iluff, turning and re-turning 
 it as before, remembering to air it from time to 
 time J and, if ftuff, to draw it through tlie hands 
 in order to (hake off the fmall bits of the root, 
 which might elfe fpot the ftuff. To avoid thefe 
 fpots, the root fhould be tyed in a bag, in the 
 fame manner as the yellow wood. You after- 
 terwards dip the lighter ftuffs, and fo on, 
 till the colour of the root is exhaufted. If 
 "worfted, you always begin with the lighteft, as 
 for other colours j but of all things you muft be 
 careful to keep your liquor from boiling at the 
 beginning, as in that cafe the firft piece of ftuff 
 would imbibe all the colour. 
 
 The method of dying with roots is not very 
 eafy j for if you are not very attentive to the de- 
 gree of heat, to turning and returning the ftuffb 
 or worfteds, fo as to dip them equally, you run 
 ,1 rilk of their being eitlier too dark or fpotted, 
 for which there is no remedy. In this cafe, the 
 only refource is to dye them marone, prune, or 
 
 N coffee 
 
178 THEARTOF 
 
 coffee colour, as I have already obferved, whert^ 
 fpeaking of colours and fhades, refulting from a 
 mixture of Fawn colour and black. In order 
 to avoid this evil, you muft keep the fluffs con- 
 tinually turning on the reel, and dip them 
 only piece by piece, nor let the liquor boil till 
 the root has yielded all its colour. The worftcds 
 or fluffs, dyed in this manner, fhould be aired, 
 well wafhed, and dried. 
 
 I can fay nothing more concerning the bark of 
 alder, than what I have already obferved with re- 
 fpeft to the root of the walnut tree, only that 
 letting it boil at the beginning is not of fo much 
 confequence, becaufe it yields its colour lefs free- 
 ly. It is generally ufed for worfleds and colours 
 darkened with copperas. It neverthelefs produced 
 a good effe(5l on wool not intended for colours 
 cxtreamly dark, and perfedlly withftands the 
 power of the air and fun. 
 
 Sumach is nearly of the fame nature, and ufed 
 in the fame manner as the hufks: its colour 
 is not fo deep, and is rather greenifh. It is for 
 dark colours frequently fu&flituted for nut galls; 
 but a greater quantity is requifite. Its colour is 
 alfo perfedlly folid and permanent. Thefe diffe-. 
 rent fubllances are fometimes mixed together, 
 and as they are equally good, and produce nearly 
 the fame effedl, there is no great difficulty in ob- 
 taining certain fhades. We mufl, neverthelefs, 
 be diredled by cuflom in the production of thefe 
 Fawn colour fhades, which abfolutely depend 
 upon the eye, and which are not difficult to 
 manage. 
 
 With 
 
JCrYING WOOL. 179 
 
 "With regard to the mixing of thefe ingredients 
 With ground Jantaly you put four pounds of the 
 latter into the copper, half a pound of nut- 
 galls pounded, twelve pounds of alder bark, and 
 ten pounds of funfiach j (thefe quantities will dye 
 25 or 27 ells of cloth). The whole is boiled, 
 and having checked the boiling with a little cold 
 water, you immerfe the cloth, turning and re- 
 ftirring it for two hours j it is then taken out, 
 aired, and wafhed in the river. You afterwards 
 dip fome more ftufF in the fame decodion, if 
 you want a lighter fhade; and in this manner 
 you may contrive fo long as the liquor retains 
 any colour. The quantities of thefe ingredients 
 are augmented, or diminiflied, in proportion to 
 the depth of the fhade required, letting the wool 
 or ftufF boil accordingly. J have already obferv- 
 ed, that there is no other method of obtaining 
 the colour of thtfantal or faundefS. 
 
 I have here mentioned the faunders, and the me- 
 thod of ufing it, though perhaps it would have been 
 iTiore feafonable when treating of the falfc 
 dye, confidering that this wood, fhould never be 
 tifed but for low priced ftiiffs. Neverthelefs, as 
 it is employed almoft in the fame manner as the 
 other ingredients for Fawn colours, and as there 
 are many provinces, where it is tolerated 
 in the good dye, becaufe it withftands the 
 weather, I thought it might be as well to men- 
 tion the method of ufing it in courfe with the 
 othet- ingredients. I fliali for the fame reafon 
 defcribe alfo the manner of dying with foot, 
 though permitted only for the falfe dye, hav- 
 ing lefs folidity than the others, and becaufe 
 N 1 
 
i8o THEARTOF 
 
 it hardens the wool, and gives fluff a veiy drfa- 
 
 ereeable fmell. 
 
 The foot and water is generally put into the 
 copper at the fame time, and the whole well 
 boiled. The fluff is then immerfed, and more 
 or Icfs boiled according to the fhade required j it 
 is afterwards taken our, and cooled, and thofe in- 
 tended for the lighefl iliade are then put in; they 
 are afterwards well wafhed and dried. But the 
 befl method is to boil the foot in the water for 
 two hours, to let it fland afterwards, and then to 
 empty the liquor into another copper, without 
 mixing the foot. 
 
 The wool and fluffs are then dipped in the 
 liquor, and are thereby lefs hardened than if they 
 had been mixed with the foot s but this does not 
 render the colour more permanent, and in- 
 deed it were better never to make ufe of this in- 
 gredient, except for ftuffs of little value, efpeci- 
 ally as it can be fupplied by other ingredients 
 which I have mentioned above, and which give 
 s. better and more lafling colour, and are befides 
 more foftening to the wool. In the dye they 
 frequently employ the green walnut (hcU, and 
 the root of the walnut tree for their Fawn co- 
 lours. Thefe two fubflances are ufeful both 
 for the greater and lefler dye : there are, however, 
 places where it is difficult to meet with them, 
 and where they are therefore obliged to make 
 life of faunders, and even of foot. 
 
 The reafons which 1 have above given for the 
 folidity of true colours may feem to be con- 
 tradidled by this method of dying, in which the 
 colour adheres permanently to Fawn colours, 
 
 without 
 
DYING WOOL. i8r 
 
 "vrithout the previous preparation of alum or 
 tartar, confequently without introducing into the 
 pores of the fibres a fait capable of being harden- 
 ed by cold and of retaining the colouring atoms. 
 Bur, if we examine the green fliell of the walnut, 
 the root of the walnut tree, the bark of the alder, 
 by a chymical analyfis, befides their well known 
 allringent qualities, we fhall find, by dccom- 
 pofing them according to art, that they contain a 
 vitriolated tartar, a fait, which is neither calcined 
 by the fun, nor difiblved, except by boilino- 
 water, and we fliall then perceive, that thefe in- 
 gredients are of themfelves fufficient to produce 
 efFefts equal to thofe drugs whofe colours cannot 
 be folidiy applied, without the afllftance of a 
 fait, capable of retaining the colouring atoms. 
 Soot does not give a colour fo permanent, becaufe 
 it contains only a voktile and marine fait, 
 eafily diflblved. In fliort, foot, being compofed 
 only of the lighteft, and mod volatile particles of 
 combuftible bodies, ufed as the pabulum of fire, 
 cannot raife a vitriolated tartar, which does not 
 become volatile by heat, and which, befides, 
 rarely exifts in the wood ufually burnt in our 
 chimnics. 
 
 CHAP. XX,. 
 Of Black. 
 
 "DLACK is the Dyers fifth primitive colour, 
 •*-' It includes a prodigious quantity of (hades, 
 beginning from the lightcft grey, (Tr pearl colour, 
 
 N 3 ta 
 
i«i THEARTOF 
 
 to black. On account of thefe fhades, it \^ 
 ranked amongft the primitive colours, for the 
 greateft number of browns of whatfoever fhadq 
 they be, are finifhed in the fame dye, which 
 would dye white wool a grey, more or lefs 
 dark. This operation is called browning. 
 I Ihall fpeak of this when I come to treat of 
 the fhades refulting from a mixture of the 
 primitive colours ; but I iTiaU now give the 
 method of dying wool a fine black. For thi? , 
 purpofe, I fliall be obliged to fpeak of a procefs 
 ufed in falfe dying. In order to dye fluff a fine 
 black, it Hiould be begun by a great Dyer and 
 finifhed by a Dyer of the kjer dye. 
 
 Stuffs fhould be firft dyed, when intended for 
 black, a mazareen blue, as deep as pofTible, 
 called the bafis or ground, which fnould be exe- 
 cuted by great Dyers, and in the fame manner as 
 1 have direfted in my chapter upon the blue. The 
 ftuff fhould be wafhed at the river as foon a^ it 
 comes out of the woad vat, and fhould be well 
 fcowered in the fulling mill. The wafhing 
 is of great importance, becaufe without it the 
 lime in the liquor fpots, and injures the ftuff. It is 
 alfo very neceffary to fcower it in the fulling mill, 
 clfe it blackens the linen and the hands, as is 
 frequently the cafe When it has not been fuffi- 
 ciently fcowered. 
 
 After this preparation, the fluff is finiflied and 
 blackened, which is performed in the following 
 manner, in the lefTer dye. 
 
 For a hundred weight of cloth or fluff, which, 
 
 according to the regulations, fhould have had 4 
 
 grey blue ground, you put into a moderate 
 
 I cauldron 
 
DYING WOOL. 183 
 
 cauldron ten pounds of logwood, cut into chips, 
 and ten pounds of Aleppo galls pulverifed, the 
 whole enclofed in a bag: thefe ingredients are 
 boiled in a fuflficient quantity of water for twelve 
 hours. A third part of this liquor is emptied 
 into another cauldron, with two pounds of ver- 
 digris; the fluff is then entered and turned 
 for two hours without ceafing. It is neceffary 
 to obferve that this liquor fhould boil very 
 flowly; or it is ftill better to keep it very 
 hot without boiling. The fluff is then taken 
 out, and the fecond third of the liquor thrown 
 into the copper to the firft third, with the 
 addition of eight pounds of copperas. The 
 fire under the cauldron is diminiflied, and the 
 copperas left to diffolve for half an hour, let- 
 ting the liquor cool, after which the fluff is 
 kept turning an hour; it is then taken out and 
 cooled. The refl of the liquor is then mixed 
 with the two firft thirds, carefully fqueezing the 
 bag well. To this is added fifteen or twenty 
 pounds of fumach : you give it another boil, 
 and then cool it with a little water; having pre- 
 vioufly added two pounds more of copperas, you 
 again turn the ftuft' for two hours j it is then 
 taken out, cooled, and again put into the caul- 
 dron, turning it conftantly for an hour lunger. 
 After this it is carried to the river, well walhed 
 and fcowered at the fulling mill. When it is 
 thoroughly fcowered, and that the water comes 
 out of it clear, you prepare a frefh liquor 
 with as much weld as you think proper; you 
 give it one boil, cool it, and dip the ftuff. 
 This U^ deco<5lion foftens and confirm^ i: a very 
 
 N ^ fine 
 
i84 THE ART OF 
 
 fine Black. For the moft part, however, they 
 do not take fo much painsj but are fatisfied, 
 when the cloth is blue, to dip it in a decodtion 
 of nutgalls, and tq let it boil for two hours. It 
 is afterwards wafhed, and fome copperas and 
 logwood added to the liquor; after which the 
 fluff is again dipped for two hours, and then 
 waflied and fcowered. 
 
 I have aifo dyed in the following manner: 
 for fifteen ells of cloth, previoufly dyed blue, 
 I had a pound and half of yellow wood, five 
 pounds of logwood, and ten pounds of fu- 
 mach, put into a cauldron. In this the cloth 
 boiled for three hours j after which it was 
 taken out, and ten pounds of copperas 
 thrown into the copper. When the copperas 
 was diffoived and the liquor cooled, the cloth 
 was put into it for two hours ; it was then taken 
 out and cooled, after which it was again im- 
 merfed for an hour, and then waflicd and fcow- 
 ered : it was tolerably fine, but not lb velvety 
 as the preceding. 
 
 It was commanded by the ancient Regulations^ 
 that ftuffs fhould be maddered after they had 
 been blued, and before they were dyed Black. 
 Defirous of afcertaining the advantage refulting 
 from this procefs, I took a bit of cloth which 
 had been dyed blue, this being divided, one 
 half was boiled with alum and tartar, and 
 afterwards maddered. It was then blackened 
 in the fame liquor with the other half which had 
 not been maddered conformable to the fir fl^ of 
 the two methods juft defcribed. They were each 
 of them ^ very beautiful Black: it neverthelefs 
 
 appeared 
 
DYING WOOL. tJ5 
 
 appeared that the maddered liufF had a reddifh 
 call : the other Black was certainly more beauti- 
 ful, more velvety, and much finer. There is, 
 indeed, lefs danger of the maddered ftufFs foiling 
 the hands and linen, becaufe the alum and tartar 
 of the preparation had carried off all the loofe 
 particles. This advantage is not however fuffi- 
 cient to make amends for the inconvenience of 
 maddering, as the fluff is always in fome degree 
 injured by the alum and tartar, and as the 
 madder gives it a reddifli caft difagreeable to 
 the eye, and, befides, this operation raifes the 
 price of the dye to no purpofe. 
 
 Some Dyers, to avoid thefe incoveniencies 
 in part, madder their cloth without having pre- 
 yioufly boiled it in alum and tartar. But 1 have 
 already fhewn that madder ufed in this manner 
 has no permanency; hence I cannot per- 
 ceive the advantage refulting from fo bad a prac- 
 tice. 
 
 Black is fometimes dyed without having given 
 it the blue ground; and this method of dying 
 was permitted for light or thin fluffs of inferior 
 value, confequently not confiderable enough to 
 bear the expence of a deep blue previous to 
 their being dyed Black. It was however ordered 
 at the fame time to give thefe fluffs a ground of 
 the green walnut fliell, or of the root of the 
 walnut tree, to avoid the neceffity of blacken- 
 ing them with too great a quantity of copperas. 
 This procefs intirely regards the falfe dye ; never- 
 thelefs as it was alfo allowed to other Dyers, 
 ;his feems the proper timp to mention it, efpe- 
 
 cially 
 
j86 THEARTOF 
 
 cially as I am fpeaking of colours appertaining 
 to both. 
 
 This procefs is attended with no nnanner of 
 difficulty. The cloth, as we have already 
 ftcn in the chapter upon Fawn colour, is pre- 
 pared with the green walnut Iliell, and after- 
 wards blackened in the manner I have already 
 defcribedj or as near it as poflible. For with 
 Black, as with fcarlet, moft Dyers fuppofe that 
 they are pofleffed of a fecret for dying a much 
 finer Black than any of their fraternity; this, 
 however, confifts in augmenting or diminilhing 
 the quantities of the fame ingredients, or in 
 fubllituting others which produce the fame cfFed. 
 I have myfelf tried feveral methods, and fancy 
 that what is ftriftly meant by fucceeding to per- 
 feftion, depends rather on the manner of work- 
 ing, handling, and airing the ftuff properly, 
 than upon the exaft quantity of the ingredients. 
 For this reafon I have been more particular than 
 may be thought necelTary in my defcription of 
 what appeared to me to be the bed method. 
 
 It may not in this place be improper to explain 
 the reafon of the neceffity of giving fluffs a blue, 
 or at leall a root colour ground, previous to 
 their being dyed Blackj and why the dying 
 white Black is exprefsly prohibited, becaufe in 
 that cafe ic is necefTary to ufe a much greater 
 quantity of nutgallsj this would indeed be no 
 great evil, as nutgalls of themfelves do not 
 injure the wool; but in order to overcome this 
 gallf according to the workmen's phrafe, that 
 is, to bUcken it, or properly fpeaking, rather 
 
 t9 
 
DYING WOOL. 187 
 
 to form an ink on the fluff, it requires a greater 
 quantity of copperas, which not only hardens 
 the fluff, but, fronn the acidity impreffed on the 
 fibres of the wool by this fait, makes it brittle: 
 on the contrary, when the fluff has had a 
 ground, that is to fay, a flrong layer of fbme 
 deep colour, there is much lefs occafion for 
 cither. 
 
 Blue is preferable to any other colour j firfl, 
 bccaufe it is the nearefl to Black, which is in 
 fa6l only a deep blue; and, fecondly, as there 
 is no occafion for any other preparation than 
 previoully boiling the wool, the fluff is in no 
 refped injured. For the fame reafon, viz. the 
 prefervation of the wool, the root colour is 
 fubfticuted for inferior fluffs, inflead of the blue, 
 which would enhance the price; it is therefore 
 heceffary that this root colour ground fhould be 
 as deep as pofTible; becaufe the darker it is there 
 is occafion for lefs copperas to complete the 
 Black. 
 
 It alfo frequently happens that when fluffs of 
 any colour are badly dyed, or fpotted, they are 
 dipped in Black: it is however advifeable to dip 
 them firfl in blue, unlefs the colour be very dark, 
 in which cafe they would take a very fine Black ; 
 but this is the lafl refource. Thefe fluffs arc 
 not commonly dyed Black, if it be poffi.ble to 
 make them any other colour; becaufe, having 
 been prepared with alum and tartar for the firfl 
 colour, the copperas requifite for the Black 
 would confiderably injure and greatly diminifh 
 pheir quality. 
 
 The 
 
i88 THE ART OF 
 
 The fhades of Black are greys, from the darkcfl: 
 to the lighted. They are of great ufe in the arc 
 of dying, as well for their own colours fimply 
 as when applied to other colours, which is called 
 darkening ; but I fhall fpeak of thefe more parti- 
 cularly when treating of their mixture with the 
 primitive colours. At prefent I fliall confine 
 rayfelf to greys only, and confider them as ihades 
 proceeding from Black j relating the two me- 
 thods of producing them. 
 
 The firft and mofl general method is to boil 
 fome pounded nutgalls with a proper quantity 
 of water for two hours; at the fame time dif- 
 folving fome copperas in a little water fepa- 
 rately. Having prepared a cauldron of liquor 
 fufficient for the quantity of wool or fluff to be 
 dyed, you add to it, whilfl the water is too hot 
 for your hand, a little of the decoftion of 
 the nutgalls with thefolution of copperas. The 
 fluff intended for the lighted grey is then 
 dipped. When fufHciently coloured according to 
 your defire, you add fome freih decoftion of 
 nutgalls with fome of the infufion of the cop- 
 peras, and then dip the next fhc^de. In 
 this manner you proceed to the darkefl fliade, 
 conflantly adding thefe liquors, from the tawny 
 grey even to Black s but it is much better to 
 give the tawny grey, and the extream dark fliades, 
 a blue ground, more or lefs as you like, for the 
 reafon abovementioned. 
 
 The fecond method of producing grey is in 
 my opinion preferable i becaufe the juice of the 
 galls is better incorporated with the wool, and 
 that you are thereby fure of ufing no more cop- 
 peras 
 
DYINGWOOL. iS^ 
 
 peraS than is abfolutely necefifary. It even ap- 
 pears from the experiments I have madej that 
 the greys are more beautiful and the wool 
 brighter. It alfo appears to be equally folidj for 
 they are both of them equally proof, againft the 
 air and fun. What determined me therefore in 
 favour of the fecond method is, that befides its 
 being much lefs prejudicial to the quality of the 
 wool, it is attended with no more difficulty than 
 the firfl. 
 
 You boil a fufficient quantity of nutgalls, 
 well pounded and inclofed in a clean linen bagj 
 you afterwards put the wool or fluff into thia 
 liquor, letting it boil for an hour, moving and 
 ftirring it about, after which it is taken out. 
 You then add to the fame liquor a little copperas 
 diffolved in a part of the folution, and then 
 dip the woolens intended for the lighted 
 fliade. You again add a little of the copperas 
 folution, continuing in this manner as in the firft 
 operation, till you come to the darkefl: fhades. 
 In either procefs, if not reftrained by patterns, 
 you may catch the precife fliades, beginning 
 with the dark and finifliing with the light, in pro- 
 portion as the liquor becomes exhaufted of its 
 ingredients J keeping the pieces of fluff or wool 
 immerfed for a longer or fhorter time, till the 
 fluff takes the colour defired. 
 
 It is as impoffible to determine the quantity of 
 water neceffary for thefe operations, as it is 
 to fpecify the quantity of the ingredients, 
 or the time for letting the wool remain in the 
 liquor. The eye muft judge of thefe things. 
 If the liquor be llrongly impregnated with 
 
 coJour, 
 
19* THeARTOF 
 
 colour, the wool will imbibe the Ihade in a Short 
 timci but, on the contrary, it muft remain 
 longer if the liquor be exhaufted. When the: 
 wool is not dark enough^ it is dipped a fecond 
 time, a third, or even more, till it is of a fuf- 
 ficient colour -, the only neceflary attention is to 
 prevent the water from boiling. If it be by 
 chance too deep, the only remedy is to dip thci 
 fluff in afrelh warm liquor, adding to it a little 
 of the decoftion of nutgalls. This liquor car- 
 ries off a part of the precipitated iron of the 
 copperas J confequently the wool or ftuff be- 
 comes lighter. 
 
 But the beft way is to take it out of the liquof 
 from time to time, not leaving it in long enough 
 to imbibe more of the colour than required. It 
 may alfo be dipped in a folution of foap or alum? 
 ibut thefe correctives deftroy a great part of the! 
 colour, fo that it is often neceffary to darken it 
 again 5 by this means the wool, which fuffers 
 greatly by the reiterated a6bion of thefe ingre- 
 dients, is injured, , All greys, however dyedj^ 
 Ihould be well wafned in a large flream, and the 
 darkeft even fcowered with foap. 
 
 Thefe dingy Ihades, from the lighteft to the 
 darkeft, are produced by the fame operation from 
 which common ink is obtained. The green 
 vitriol contains iron j were it blue, it would con- 
 tain copper. Pour a folution of this green cop- 
 peras into a glafs, holding it in the light, and 
 dropping into it fome of the decoftion of nut- 
 galls. The firft drops that fall into this limpid folu- 
 tion of ferruginous fait, producesa reddifh colour^ 
 the next turns it bueifh, then a dufky violet 
 
 cok>ur> 
 
DYING WOOL. 191 
 
 colour, and at lad it becomes a dark blue, almoft 
 black, which is called ink. To this ink add a 
 quantity of pure water; let the vefiel reft for 
 feveral days, and th^ liquor by degrees becomes 
 clearer and clearer, till it is almoft as limpid as 
 common water, and, at the bottom of the vef- 
 iel, you will perceive a black powder. Having 
 dried this powder, put it into a crucible; calcine 
 this, and put to it a little fuet, or any other fat, 
 you will obtain a black powder which may be 
 attracted by the loadftone. This, therefore, is 
 iron ; this is the metal which blackens the ink, 
 and this, when precipitated by the nutgalls, 
 lodges in the pores of the fibres of tlie wool, di- 
 lated by the heat of the liquor, and contra(5led 
 when the ftuff is expofed to the air. Befides 
 the ftyptic quality of the nutgalls, by which they 
 have eminently the property of precipitating the 
 iron of the copperas, and producing ink, they 
 alfo contain a portion of gum, as may be afcer- 
 tained by evaporating the philcereddecodlion.This 
 gum being introduced into the pores with the 
 ferruginous atoms ferves to retain them; buc 
 this gum being eafily foluble, it has not the 
 tenacity procured from a fait more difficult of 
 folution ; therefore thefe dark colours have not 
 the folidity of other folid colours prepared in a 
 boiling folution of alum and tarta!% and therefore 
 plain greys have not been fubmitted to the ufual 
 trial. 
 
 Thus have I, to the beft of my knowledge, given 
 the beft methods of producing what the Dyers 
 call primitive colours; or at leaft thofe which 
 they fuppofe moft deferving of that appellation, 
 
 as 
 
i^i THE ART dF 
 
 as from their mixture and combinations, all otlief 
 colours are derived. I fhall now begin with the 
 fimple combination of two colours, in the fame 
 order in which I have defcribed them fingly. 
 When I have given the colours refulting from 
 their firft degree of combination, I fhall join 
 them by threes j continuing in the fame manner, 
 till I have exhibited every colour exifling in 
 nature and imitated by art. 
 
 CHAP. XXI. 
 
 0/ the colours obtained from a mixture of Blue and 
 Red. ^ 
 
 TT7HEN fpcaking of red, I obferved, that 
 ' ^ there were four different fpecies in grain. 
 We (hall now fee what thefe reds produce when 
 applied to a fluf? previoufly dyed blue. A 
 blue fluff boiled in alum and tartar, according 
 to my dire6tions in the article concerning red, 
 and afterwards dyed with the kermes, the refulc 
 will be the King's colour. Prince's colour, Violet, 
 Purple, and feveral fuch colours. But, for thefe 
 colours, they feldom make ufe of kermes on 
 account of its high price, and the quantity re- 
 quired, and becaufe the fame colour produced 
 by cochineal and madder are both finer and 
 obtained with lefs difficulty. Befidcs I have 
 already remarked, that kermes is not much iri 
 life, though it produces feveral compound co- 
 lours with good effefb, as will be more particu- 
 larly Ihown in the fequel. When kermes is ufed 
 in order to apply red to blue, it is of no confe- 
 quence whether the blue ground be given before 
 
 or 
 
DYING WOOL. 191 
 
 br after the llufF has been dyed red, the red of 
 kermes being too permanent to be changed 
 either by the lime of thewoad vat, at lead if 
 not overcharged, or by the pot-afh of the indigo 
 vat. If, therefore, the woad vat be not too 
 old, you may begin with either of the two 
 colours as you like, or as you fhall think moft 
 fuitable to the fhade required. It is eafy to con- 
 ceive, though I have mentioned but a very fmall 
 number of colours, that from thefe two prin- 
 ciples a very large quantity of fhades may be 
 obtained, according as the one or the other 
 predominates. 
 
 You never mix blue with fire colour fcarlct, or 
 tviththe fcarlet of Goblins, in any of their fliades. 
 In order to difcover the caufe of this, I dipped a 
 bit of fcarlet cloth in the blue vat, and dyed a 
 fecond bit according to the fcarlet method, 
 having previoufly dipped it in the blue vat. 
 They each of them fucceeded very ill, and pro- 
 duced a dufky marbled violet colour, as if tiie 
 two colours were not well united^ and had 
 been applied feparately to different parts of the 
 wool. This was doubtlefs occafioned by the 
 acids in the compofition of the fcarlet. But I 
 ihall not now examine this operation phyfically, 
 as it would produce a tedious differtation j the 
 fad is fufficient. It proves the impofilbility of 
 procuring a fine colour from a mixture of blue 
 with fcarlet, unlef* the fcarlet be dipped in a 
 folution/of alum, by which the acid of the com- 
 }5or]tion would be deftroyed; but then it would be 
 crimfon, a colour very different from fcarlet; 
 
 O the 
 
192 THE ART OF 
 
 the procefs of which I have given in a particular 
 
 chapter. 
 
 A mixture of blue and crimfon produces colom- 
 bine, purple, amaranthe, penfy, and violet colour. 
 Thefe colours alfo produce a very great number 
 of ihades, which vary according as the colours 
 from whence they are derived are more or lefs 
 dark. I have been fo minute in my dirediohs 
 for the management of the primitive colours, that 
 it is impoflible for the leaft difficulty or embarralT- 
 ment to occurin the execution of compound co- 
 lours. The fluff and worllcd beingof one colour, it 
 is afterwards dyed another, precifely in the fame 
 manner as if it had been quite white. You muft 
 only obferve, in the prefent cafe, to dye the ftuff 
 blue before you dip it crimfon; becaufe the 
 alkali of either of the blue vats confiderably 
 tarnifh the brightnefs of the cochineal. Take 
 notice, that in producing violet, purple, and 
 fuch like fliades, to obferve what I have already 
 faid concerning crimfon; becaufe thefe colours 
 have no vivacity or brightnefs, if not managed 
 ■with all the preciiutions neceflary towards the 
 produ6lion of a fine crimfon. 
 
 Blue and the red of madder produce king's pur- 
 ple, &c. but much inferior to that obtained from 
 the kermes; becaufe the red of this root is 
 always tarnifhed by the colour of its woody 
 fibres. The minime, tan-colour^ a7naranthe and 
 the dry roje colour y are always lefs lively than if 
 obtained from the kermes. It is neverthelefs 
 fometimes mixed with madder, as I have already 
 faidj in order to produce fcarlet half-grain; and 
 the colours procured from it are much finer than 
 
 thofe 
 
bYING WOOL. 193 
 
 thofe bbtained from the madder only, applie4 
 to a blue ftuff. Madder mixed with cochi- 
 heal, as for half-crimfon, gives a vail number 
 of fhades, which bear fome affinity to thofe 
 already mentioned ; but which it were impoffible 
 to fpecify particularly. Some of them are as 
 fine as thofe produced by more expenfive ingre- 
 dients. As it is incumbent on Dyers to attend 
 to their own advantage, they will not make ufe 
 of the deareft when it is pofllble to produce the 
 fame effect with common ingredients. It is dif- 
 ficult to give particular inftru6lions upon a prac- 
 tice that mult be acquired from experience only. 
 Old madder and cochineal liquors are frequently 
 pfed when the colour is not entirely exhaufted^ . 
 they produce a very good colour, and fave a 
 confiderable expence. With regard to this, 
 however, I can fay nothing pofitive, as itseffecT:s 
 depend on the quantity of colour remaining in 
 the liquor, and on the degree of fhade required* 
 
 CHAP. XXII. 
 
 0/ the mixture of Blue and Tdlow^ 
 
 TT is impoffible to obtain more than one colour 
 ■*■ from a mixture of Blue and Yellow, which 
 is green; but this colour comprehends an infi- 
 nite variety of Ihades, the principal of which are, 
 Tellozv G'reefij Pale Gree?!, Bright Green, Grafs Green, 
 Laurel Green, Olive Green, Sea Green, Parrot 
 Green, and Cahbnge Green. To thefe may be 
 ^ddtd Duck' s-lFing Green, and i"^*^ Gr^^« without 
 blue. Tl^efe iliades, with tlieir intermediate 
 O 2 ones. 
 
191 THE ART OF 
 
 ones, are produced in the fame manner and with 
 the fame eafe. You take ftufF or wool, either a 
 dark or light blue, and having boiled it in alum 
 and tartar, as you would white ftufF for common 
 yellowj you afterwards dye it with weld, 
 favory, or greening wood. Thefe feveral fub- 
 ftances are equally good with regard to their 
 folidity; but as they give different Yellows, the 
 green refulting from their mixtures are alfo 
 different. Weld and favory give the fineft 
 Greens. 
 
 ForYellow green fliades the ftuff fliould be a fine 
 light Blue, boiled with the common quantities of 
 alum and tartar, in order to receive the Yellow ; 
 as without thefe falts the colour would not be 
 permanent. For Cabbage or Parrot Green, the 
 Blue (hould be very deep; but as it ought to have 
 but a tinge of Yellow, the ftuff will require but 
 half the boiling. Even a quarter of the falts of 
 a common preparation is fometimes fufficient, 
 as I have already explained. The workmen, for 
 thefe kind of colours, feldom weigh the falts, 
 judging by the eye the quantity fufficient for the 
 ftiade required. Conftant pradtice will in fome 
 degree make them tolerably exad; but it were 
 to be wiftied, that they would not truft to the eye 
 in this particular. I know from experience, 
 that thefe Blue-Green ftiades are produced as 
 well, by giving the ftuff the ufual preparation. 
 The Yellow afterwards applied is much more 
 folid J but then there is much lefs weld 
 or other colouring fubftance required, neither 
 fhould the ftuff be left fo long in the liquor. 
 Neverthelefs there are two reafons to the con- 
 trary : 
 
DYING WOOL. 195 
 
 trary : the firft, and moft interefting to Dyers 
 is, that they fancy they confume a greater quan- 
 tity of ingredients than neceflary; and the 
 fecond, that the fmaller the quantity of alurn, 
 the more you preferve the foftnefs and quality 
 of the wool ; and alfo that the firft blue dye is 
 Jefs impaired, as the alum always deadens the 
 blue obtained from the woad. Hence I am 
 of opinion, that in this particular, the Dyer 
 fhould be at liberty to regulate the ftrength of 
 his preparation by the depth of the colour re- 
 quired. 
 
 I have faid that in order to dye green the wool 
 Ihould be previoufly dyed blue ; becaufe it is 
 my opinion, that when the colours are thus ap- 
 plied, the green is more durable, and that the 
 colour would not be fo fine were it otherwife. 
 I was convinced of this in dying the greens of 
 which I have been fpeaking. I found that they all 
 flood the weather. Thofe which were (irft dyed 
 Blue were the leaft afFe6led; but with reg-ard to 
 the trial-liquors there was evidently much lefs 
 difference. 
 
 Neverthelefs, whenever it is neceflary, the 
 Dyer fliould be allowed to dye their fluffs Yello'.v 
 firft j but then thefe foil the linen much more 
 than the others ; becaufe when the blue is firft 
 given, the loofe particles are wai"hed off' by the 
 alum preparation. The beft remedy for this defeat 
 is to have the green well fcowered whei'i taken 
 out of the vat, by which means it will be ren- 
 dered like the Blue mentioned in the tenth 
 phapter, 
 
 O 3 King's 
 
196 THE ART OF 
 
 King's Blue cloth dipped Green with the 
 flower of the Virga aurea Canadienfis^ becomes a 
 very fine green, provided the ftufF is boiled in a 
 folution of three parts alum and one part white 
 tartar. This green is equally permanent as that 
 dyed with weld. 
 
 I have alfo greened blues with the bark of afh 
 tree pulverifed; this is perfeflly folid, but not 
 fine, and therefore of no ufe except for particu- 
 lar colours. The leaves of the almond, the 
 peach, and pear tree, &:c. as they furnilh yel- 
 lows, may ferve for thofe green Ihades which it 
 may be difficult to hit immediately with the 
 ingredients hitherto employed for dying Yellow. 
 A kin^s V«ue ftuJfF, well fcowered, and after- 
 wards boiled in a folution of four parts alum 
 and one part tartar, takes a fine dark green of 
 the duck's wing fhade, if it be boiled for two 
 full hours in a vat with a fufficient quantity 'of 
 the root oi La-pat nm folk aciUo^ (harp pointed dock 
 grofsly powdered. 
 
 This root is alfo a good acquifition in the art 
 of dyingj for it will, without any other addi- 
 tion than the preparationy give an infinity 
 of fhades, from the paleft yellow to a tole- 
 rable olive colour J it requires nothing more 
 than to increafe or diminifh the quantity put into 
 the vat, and to boil it from half an hour to 
 three hours. All thefc ihades withftand the 
 trial of boiling. I would ftrongly recommend 
 the cultivation of this root in moift places, 
 and the ufe of it in dying, as it is already ufed 
 in medicine^ efpecially for the poor. 
 
 Sea 
 
DYING WOOL. 197 
 
 Sea green, a particular colour, and much, 
 the tafte of the people of the Levant, may be 
 made perfc<^ly folid by giving the (tuff a Blue 
 ground ; but this Blue fiiade fiioujd be vc'ry feint, 
 icarcely exceeding a bluifh white, which it is 
 difficult to dye equal and uniform; but when you 
 have obtained this (l:iade, the Vh-ga aura above- 
 mentioned is better for giving the yellow tinge 
 than the weld But this Virga aiirea is not 
 yet known to the Dyers of Languedoc, by whom 
 thcfe kind of colours are chiefly made -, and 
 befides, the blue fhade required being very diffi- 
 cult to obtain, they arc fometimes permitted to 
 dye Sea Greens with verdigris, though this co- 
 lour is claflTed amongft the falfe colours. The 
 Dutch ni^jl? this colour very well, and more 
 iblid than^fcfual with verdigris. Tlie following 
 is their method of proceeding : 
 
 It requires two cauldrons placed at a little 
 diftance from each other. In one of thefe caul- 
 drons you put for two pieces of cloth, of 
 about forty- five or fifty ells long, eight or 
 ten pounds of white foap fhaved, which fbould 
 be perfeftly diflblved. When the vat is ready 
 to boil, the ftuff fliould be immerfed, and fuffe- 
 red to boil for a good half hour. You prepare 
 another liquor in the other cau'dron, and yA\^vi 
 it is quite hot you put into it a clean linen bag, 
 containing eight or ten pounds of blue vitriol, 
 and ten or twelve pounds of lime, each of them 
 pulverifed and well mixed together; for ir i:. 
 necelTary that this mixture be as accurate as 
 pofTible. This bag fliould be moved about in 
 
 O 4 the 
 
igS THEARTOF 
 
 the hot water, but not boiling, till the vitriol is 
 diflblved. You Ihould then fix on the two forks a 
 winch made as ufual, but which Ihould be 
 carefully wrapped round with a clean linen cloth 
 very tight and well fewed. One end of the 
 cloth is fixed on the winch which is turned fwiftly 
 round, that the cloth rnay pafs quickly from the 
 foap cauldron into the cauldron with the vitriol j 
 it is then turned more flowly, that the cloth may 
 have time to imbibe the particles of copper, 
 which, by means of the lime, were difi^ufed in 
 the liquor, by feparating and precipitating them 
 from the blue vitriol in which they were coa- 
 tained. The cloth is left in tjiis liquor, which 
 Ihould never boil till it has taken the Sea Green 
 ihade required. It is then taken out, drained on 
 the winch, and aired by the lifting. It ihould 
 then hang till it is perfectly cold before it is 
 wafhed at the river. If it touches wood 
 before it has been wafhed it will fpotj for this 
 reafon the winch is covered, and for the fame rea- 
 fon the horfe fhould be alfo covered before the 
 cloth is folded over it. 
 
 CHAP. XXIII. 
 Of the mixture of Blue and Fawn cclour. 
 
 'nr^HE olive fliades refulting from Blue and 
 •*' Fawn colour are of very little ufe, except 
 in the fabrication of tapcftry. There is no 
 difficulty in making them when required; and 
 it is abfolutely indifferent whether you begin by 
 
 dipping 
 
DYING wop t. 19^ 
 
 dipping your worded Blue, or Fawn colour; 
 if the latter, you fhould be careful to rince your 
 worfted, which fhould be always obferved with 
 regard to Blue, and and alfo for fuch compound 
 colours as are compleated in the Blue Vat. 
 \Vhen you would produce thefe colours, it 15 
 equally indifferent which of the Fawn colour 
 fubftances you ufej the preference being due 
 to thofe only, which give the fhade requixed with 
 ;he lead difficulty. 
 
 F 
 
 CHAP. XXIV. 
 
 Of the mixture of Blue and Black, 
 
 ROM this mixture there is no particular 
 lliade to be obtained as the Grey only dark- 
 ens the Blue, which may be better effeded by 
 giving them the fhade required, in the Blue Vat. 
 You may neverthelefs by a mixture of Blues and 
 Greys, which are numbered amongft the Black 
 (hades, as I have obferved in Chap. XX. produce 
 Tawneys. In this cafe the Blue fhould not be 
 very deep, and the procefs is then the fame as 
 for Black, only that as the colour is not quite fo 
 dark you Ihould not put fo much copperas; but, 
 as I have before faid, this colour fhould be con- 
 fidered only as a black fhade. Hence it may 
 be truly faid, that no fhade can be obtained from 
 Blue and Black only, and but very few from Blue 
 ^.nd Fawn colour. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
2ft« THE ART OF 
 
 CHAP. XXV. 
 
 Of the mixtures of Red and Yellow, 
 
 CCARLET of kcrmes and Yellov/ produce 
 Aurora, couleur de Soiici, and orange colour. 
 When the wool has been boiled in alum and 
 tartar it may be dyed in one of thefe colours, 
 .and afterwards dipped in the otiier, or it may be 
 dyed at once, by mixing the kermes with 
 weld, favory. Sec. But the precife fhades are 
 more eafily obtained by the firft method, as 
 the wool or ftufF may be dipped, alternately, 
 till it has taken exaftly the Ihade required. 
 
 From common fcarlet, or fcarlet of Goblins 
 and yellow, you procure lobfter colour, and 
 the colour of the pomegranate flowerj but they 
 are not very permanent : they are dyed in the 
 following manner. You begin with the fcarler 
 juft as 1 have before direfled, that is, by boiling 
 with cream of tartar, cochineal, and the com- 
 pofition: it fhould then be taken out, cooled 
 and wafiied at the river. In order to finifh, you 
 muft prepare a frelli liquor as for fcarlet, only 
 lefTening the quantity of the cochineal, and fub- 
 ftituting a little ground yellow wood, I cannot 
 however fpecify exaftly the quantity either of 
 the cochineal or yellow wood, as that depends 
 upon the colour required. If an orange colour, 
 you add a greater quantity of the yellow v/ood, 
 diminifhing the cochineal in proportion. 
 
 I have endeavoured to produce this colour 
 by three different methods, and fucceeded ia 
 them all. The firft method I have juft defcribed. 
 
 The 
 
DYING WOOL. aot 
 
 The fccond is to fubftitute fuftic for ycilow 
 wood, which is a confiderablefaving of cochineal, 
 being much more upon the orange than yellow 
 wood; but this ingredient wants folidity, and 
 fliould never be ufed but for falfe colours j fo 
 that it is tolerated in Languedoc for dying 
 cloth the lobfter colour, fo much admired in 
 the Levant, only becaufe the colour obtained 
 from it is more beautiful than that produced by 
 the yellow wood. 
 
 The third method of procuring the lobfter 
 colour, with cochineal only^ is by augmenting 
 the quantity of the compofition, according to 
 the degree of orange required, but this method 
 is attended with very great inconvenience. In the 
 •firft: place, it enhanccs'the price of the colour, 
 as it requires more cochineal than common 
 fcarlet ; becaufe the acid of the compofition 
 in fome degree lefiens its ftability. Secondly, 
 for the fame reafon, the colour always appear* 
 ftarved. Thirdly, the too great quantity of the 
 compofition hardens the wool and renders it 
 more liable to Ipot, and therefore this method 
 is probably the worft of the three. I have already 
 faid, that the fecond method was attended with in- 
 convenience, on account of the neceffity of ufing 
 fuftic, a wood prohibited for dying true colours, 
 confequently the firft method ftiould have the 
 preference, if the colour it produces be equal 
 to that obtained from the fecond j but the colour 
 of the yellow wood is not fo folid as might 
 be wiftied, as I know from experience, having 
 expofed it to the fun. This feems rather 
 extraordinary, confidcring that tl^e ingredients 
 I are 
 
302 THE ART OF 
 
 arc polTefTed of all pofTible folidity ; but the fol- 
 lowing will account for their not anfwering in 
 the prcfent cafe. 
 
 Cochineal, with the fcarlet coinpofition and 
 cream of tartar, is fo permanent, that the lobfter 
 colour is fcarce affedled by the air. It is how- 
 ever different with regard to the yellow wood ; 
 for though very folid, when the wool is boiled 
 in alum and tartar, efpecially if a little alum be 
 added to the Vat, it is nothing like fo folid when 
 the fluff has received the fcarlet dye, which 
 will not admit of alum ; confequently when thefe 
 colours are expofed to the air, they will very 
 quickly crimfon, that is to fay, they will lofe a 
 part of the orange produced by the mixture of 
 Red and Yellow j fo that the air which fades 
 every other colour feems to have a different 
 effeft upon this, which by being expofed becomes 
 deeper and darker j becaufe the air in fome 
 degree deftroys the brightnefs of the orange. 
 Its effeds are neverthelefs the fame : for it is 
 demonftrable from various chymical experiments, 
 that there exifts in the air a vitriolic acid, like 
 that obtained from a decompofition of alum ; for 
 if you dip a lobfter fluff in a flight folution of 
 alum, the acid of this fait will immediately fad- 
 den the colour; if therefore the air be impregated 
 with che fame acid, it will produce the fame effedl. 
 Very few fhades are obtained from Crimfon 
 and Yellow, on account of the price of thp 
 former of thefe colours i efpecially as madder , 
 and kermes will produce the fame fhades. In 
 the fame manner orange fliades may be produced 
 with Yellow and half Scarlet, and with Yellow 
 
 ^n4 
 
DYING WOOL. 163 
 
 and half Crimfon. Thefe mixtures produce the 
 various colours of Souciy Orangey Cold, and fuch 
 other fhades as may be obtained from the mix- 
 ture of Yellow and Red. 
 
 CHAP. XXVI. 
 Of the mixture of Red and Fawn 
 
 'T^HE red of kermes or cochineal is feldom 
 "^ ufed for the colours refulting from this 
 mixture; becaufe for thefe kind of colours, 
 which it is impoflible to make lively on account 
 of the Fawn mixture, madder will be equally 
 good. A frefh Vat of cochineal and kermes is 
 rarely prepared, purpofely thefe ingredients 
 being too dear for fuch common colours, and 
 therefore it is fufficient, after maddering, to dip 
 in an old decodtion. If therefore when the 
 ftuff has been prepared with alum and tartar, 
 proportioned to the madder Red required, you 
 dip it in a decoftion of this root, as diredled 
 in Chap. XVII. and afterwards dip and ftir it 
 in another decoftion of walnut root or hufks, 
 you produce the various colours of cinnamon, 
 tobacco, cheft-nut, &c. which are obtained 
 without difficulty by varying the madder ground, 
 and according as they are fufFered to remain in 
 the decofbion of this root. You may begin 
 with either of the two colours; but it is molt 
 common to begin with the Red ; bccaufe the 
 preparation, abfolutely necefTary for the mad- 
 der, would in fome degree hurt the Fawn 
 colour. Hence they fliould never be mixed 
 together. Red and Yellow are fometimes mixed. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
ao4 THE ART OF 
 
 CHAP. XXVlI. 
 
 Of the mixture of Red and Black, - 
 
 'T^HIS mixture ferves to produce dark Reds 
 ■*■ of all kinds j but thefe are feldom ufed 
 except for worfteds intended for tapeftry. It is 
 here neceflary to recoiled what I have faid con- 
 cerning greys, which may be obtained, either 
 from one Vat, by putting into the copper a 
 deco6lion of nut-galls, and the folution of 
 copperas, or from two, viz. by dipping the wool 
 in a decoflion of galls, and afterwards adding the 
 copperas j but this method is rather embarrafling, 
 when a good afTortment of patterns is required. 
 The moft convenient method is therefore to 
 prepare a decoftion of galls and copperas, 
 as directed in the article concerning greys, and 
 to dip the wool in it, after it had been dyed Red, 
 with any ingredient whatever, till it becomes as 
 dark as neceflary. By this method you obtain 
 dark fcarlets, crimfons, and all other dark Reds, 
 let the fhades be what they will. 
 
 This mixture produces alfo wine greys, by firft 
 giving the wool a flight tinge of Red with 
 kermes, cochineal, or madder, and afterwards 
 dipping it in the darkening liquor for a longer 
 or fliorter time, according as you would have 
 the wine colour predominate. I can give no 
 further inftrudtions concerning this procefs, as 
 it depends upon the colour required ; nor can it 
 be fuppofed that any body will find the leaft- 
 difficulty. 
 
 CHAP* 
 
DYING WOOL. 20S 
 
 CHAP. XXVIIL 
 
 Of the mixture of Tellow and Fawn colours. 
 
 'T^HIS mixture produces the fhade of the 
 -*• feuille morte, withered leaf, and of the 
 poil d'ours, bear's fkin. It is pretty much the 
 cuftom to ufe foot in thefe colours, inllead of 
 walnut hufks, or the root of the walnut tree; 
 becaufe it really gives a finer colourj but it is 
 very neccflary to fcower the wool after it is 
 dyed, in order to deftroy the bad fn^l which it 
 imbibes in this liquor. It is alfo ne^iaffiiry that 
 the. foot liquor fhould be clarified as T have 
 before direded. I would always neverthelefs 
 prefer the walnut hufl-cs to foot ; at lead, if not 
 obliged to make a very exaft aficrtment of 
 the feuille mcrte Ihade, which could not be fo well 
 obtained with the hulks, or root of the walnut 
 tree. Thefe are the only two fubftances of 
 any ufe in the Fawn colour ih^dcs; /um^cb and 
 the bark of the alder tree, do not yield a fuf- 
 ficient ground. The wool fhould be boiled in 
 alum and tartar, in order ro dye it Yellow, 
 before it is dipped again in the Fawn colour: 
 but, if you perceive that it has not had a fufEcient 
 bafis, it may be dipped in the Yellow, not- 
 withftanding it has already had the Fawn colour ; 
 though, to fay the truth, this method of obtaining 
 the precife fliades does^ not produce a colour 
 fo folid as when it has firft had a fufHcient 
 quantity of the Yellow: 
 
 CHAP. 
 
2q6 the art of 
 
 chap. xxix. 
 
 0/ the mixture of Tellow and Black. 
 
 THE mixture of thefe colours is only ufefiii 
 when you require greys inclining to Yellow; 
 but thefe greys are much more ealily produced 
 with Fawn colour, and the Dyers generally pre- 
 fer it, being more folid, more eafily obtained, 
 and at a much lefs expence. Befides, there is no 
 Gccafion to boil the wool, which fhould be 
 avoided as often as poffible. 
 
 CHAP. XXX. 
 
 Of the mixture of Fawn colour and Black. 
 
 TJ^ROM this mixture you obtain an infinite 
 number of colours j fuch as coffee colour, 
 marone, prune, &c. The following is the man- 
 ner of working. When the wool or fluffs have 
 been dipped in Fawn colour, as already defcribed, 
 and that feveral fhades are produced in fuc- 
 ceffion, obferving to give thofe intended for the 
 darkeft, a greater proportion of the Fawn colour, 
 fuch as coffee colours, marones, &c. you put 
 into a cauldron, nut-galls, fumach, and the 
 bark of the alder tree, in proportion to the 
 quantity of fluffs to be dyed. When the whole 
 has boiled for an hour you add a little 
 copperas. You then dip the fluffs intended for 
 the lightefl. As foon as thefe are finifhed you 
 take them out, and dip thofe which fliould be 
 
 darker 
 
DYING WOOL. 209 
 
 darker, carefully fupplying the Vat, with 
 copperas every time, in proportion as you 
 perceive ic neceflary, which you will foon dil- 
 cover, by its being longer in darkening the 
 fluff. You continue in this manner, and with 
 the fameVat, till all the fluffs are darkened. The 
 fire fliould be carefully kept in under the caul- 
 dron j but as the liquor fhbuld not boil, a flow 
 fire is fufEcient. Having firfl boiled the galls 
 and other ingredients, you check the boiling with 
 a little cold water before you put in the fluffs. 
 This precaution, as I have feveral times obferved, 
 is abfolutely necefl^iry. You will alfo recollefl, 
 that it is necefTary to foak the fluffs in warm 
 water before you put them into the cauldron, 
 in cafe they had been fuffered to dry, after they 
 had the Fawn colour dip, and that when they have 
 remained fome time in the darkening liquor, 
 it is necefTIiry to cool them, paffing them through 
 the hands by the liflings, without which .the 
 fluffs would be in danger of being unequally 
 dyed : befides, if not aired, the dark fhade 
 would not be fufHciently folid; becaufe the fuc- 
 cefiive congelation of the faline particles of the 
 vitriol would not be accompliflied. 
 
 Having thus confidered all the colours and 
 fliades that could poflibly be produced by a 
 mixture of the primitive colours, by two and 
 two, in which I think I have been fufficiently 
 explicit, I now proceed, for the workman's ad- 
 vantage, to give him a fpecimen of fuch as I 
 have obtained from a combination of the fame 
 primitive colours, by three and three. This 
 mixture produces a great number. It is true 
 
 P that 
 
2IO THEARTOF 
 
 that fome of them will be found fimilar to thofe 
 refulcing from two only, there being few colours 
 which may not be produced by various methods. 
 The Dyer will therefore prefer the lead difficult 
 when the colour is equally good. 
 
 CHAP. XXXI. 
 
 Of the p'fTiicipal mixtures of the prmithe colours 
 by three and three, 
 
 BLUE, Red, and Yellow, produce ruddy 
 olives, and greenifh greys, and other colours 
 of the fame kind, of little ufe, except for worfted 
 defigned for tapeftry. I need not here repeat the 
 method of ufing thefe colours, already fufficiently 
 explained in the preceding article. 
 
 When the mixture contains Blue, it is ufual 
 to begin with this colour. The fluff is after- 
 wards boiled in the other colours fucceflively. 
 They are however Ibmetimes mixed together, 
 which is equally good, when each requires 
 the lame preparation, as, for inftance, the 
 Red of madder and Yellow. With regard to 
 cochineal and kermes they are feldom ufed 
 for common colours, unlefs for light ones, re- 
 quiring a vinous tinge, which Ihould be bright 
 and lively and then only for the laft dip, unlefs 
 you require them more on the grey, when they 
 fhould be dipped for the laft time in the darkner. 
 It is however impofTible to give any precife rules 
 concerning this procefs, as the leaft experience 
 will teach more than a long detail of opera- 
 tions. 
 
 Blue, 
 
DYING WOOL. 2IE 
 
 Blue, Red, and Fawn, produce olives from 
 the darkeft to the lightefti but the flate, laven- 
 der, and fuch like colours, require but a very 
 flight ihade of Red. 
 
 Blue, Red, and Black, produce an infinite 
 number of greys of all fliades ; as fage grey, 
 flate, and lead colour, king and prince's colour, 
 when darker than common, befides a vaft variety 
 of colours, many of which run into thofe pro- 
 duced by other combinations. 
 
 Blue, Yellow, and Fawn, produce greens 
 and olives of all kinds. 
 
 Blue, Yellow, and Black, produce all the 
 dark greens, even to black. 
 
 Blue, Fawn, and Black, produce dark olives 
 and greenifli greys. 
 
 Red, Yellow, and Fawn, produce orange co- 
 lour, gold colour, withered leaf, carnations de 
 'veiUiardsj burnt cinnamon, and tobacco colours 
 of all kinds. 
 
 Red, Yellow, and Black, produce colours 
 fomething like the withered leaf. 
 
 Laitly, from Yellow, Fawn colour, and Black, 
 you obtain hair colours, nut browns, &c. 
 
 This enumeration is meant only to give a 
 general idea of the ingredients proper for the 
 produdlionof colours compofed of fcveral others. 
 
 Four of thefe colours may be mixed together, 
 and fometimes fivej but this is very uncommon. 
 It is however needlefs to enlarge upon this fub- 
 jed, and therefore I fhali relate only by what 
 means I have myfelf feen' forty different fliades 
 of carnations obtained. This example will be 
 a fufficient guide in all other cafesi but thefe 
 P 2 Ihades 
 
212 THE ART OF 
 
 ihadcs include none of the lively colours belong- 
 ing to fcarlet, which are produced according 
 to my directions in the chapter on that colour. 
 All thefe carnations were meant for the flefh 
 colour of old men and their fhades, and were 
 procured from the red of kermes, yellow, fawn, 
 and black. 
 
 The Dyer began by giving the worfteds an 
 unequal preparation, referving thofe which had 
 the weakefl: for the lighted fhade. Having re- 
 mained four or five days foaked in the prepa-raiiofi, 
 as ufual, he began by dying the lighteft. The 
 colours were difpofed in four different veffels 
 feparately, andwere kept as hot as poffible without 
 boiling. A fkein of worded was then dipped in 
 the kermes vat, which being taken out and ex- 
 prefied, was dipped in a decodtion of weld, 
 and a moment afterwards in the fawn colour, till 
 it imbibed the diade required. Another fl>iein 
 ■was then immerfed, which was fuffered to remain 
 a little longer in each liquor. In this man- 
 ner the procefs was continuedi but if any of 
 the fkeins, when expreffed, appeared deficient 
 in any of the colours, it was again dipped in 
 that particular liquor. By this means all 
 the colours had obtained the diades required j 
 only fuch as were intended for the darked diade 
 were dipped in the darkening liquor. I am con- 
 vinced, by this procefs, that patience and a little 
 pra<ftice will produce all imaginable colours. 
 
 We cannot however be too urgent in recom- 
 mending to begin with the lighted diade, be- 
 caufe it frequently happens that when a fkein 
 is fudered to remain for too long a time in any 
 
 one 
 
DYING WOOL. 213 
 
 one of thefc vats, it becomes necefTary to put it 
 among the darkeft. But the lighter fhades being 
 once obtained in proper fucceffion, there is no 
 difficulty in producing the others. 
 
 What I have juft defcribed, relates only to 
 worfteds intended for tapeftry, for which the 
 utmofb precifioh of lliades is required, and 
 without which it were impoffible to imitate the 
 painter's flelh colour. With regard to (luffs, a 
 fuccefllon of fhades is fcarce ever attempted, or 
 fuch a mixture of colours required, two or three 
 being almoft always fufficient, as thefe produce 
 fuch a variety of colours that it is fcarce poffible 
 to find names for them. 
 
 I have, I think, omitted nothing with regard 
 to dying worfteds, or woolens in the good dye; 
 ^nd I make no doubt, but that by punftually 
 obferving my direflions, both with regard to 
 worfteds, woolen fleece, and white ftufi', the 
 greateft variety of colours and fhades imaginable 
 may be executed in the higheft perfe6lion. 
 
 Neverthelefs I am of opinion, that fomething 
 ihould be added relative to mixed ftufis; that is 
 to fay, when the v/ool is dyed previous to its 
 fabrication; and alfo fome diredlions given con- 
 cerning the method of mixing wools, dyed in 
 different colours, to be afterwards carded and 
 fpun together, in order to form one colour refult- 
 ing from a combination of thediiTerent coloured 
 wools employed. 
 
 It will probably be faid, that this is more ap- 
 plicable to the manufaftory of ftufts than to the 
 method of dying them. To this I anfwer, that 
 by fometimes mixing wools of different fhades 
 P 3 there 
 
214 THEARTOF 
 
 there is a poflibility of obtaining colours, which 
 would be difficultly imitated by dying ftuff in any 
 one colour compofed of thcfe different fhades; and 
 that even fome of thefe colours contain ingre- 
 dients requiring a different preparation; but, on 
 the contrary, that by dying each part of the 
 wool feparately, this mixture is produced without 
 inconvenience. Be it as it may, I fhall defcribe 
 the method of mixing wool for the manufaftory 
 of mixed fluffs; and alfo the method of making 
 felts in miniature, very necefTary for the purpofe 
 of trying what combinations are productive of 
 the mofl pleafing effed. 
 
 CHAP. XXXII. 
 
 ^he tnethod of blending wool of different colours for 
 mixed cloth or fluffs, 
 
 A Single example of the methods of blending 
 fever al wools of different colours as accu- 
 rately as poffible will be fufficient, and may be 
 cafily applied in any other cafe when neceffary. 
 The following is the method pra<5lifed in the ma- 
 nufactory of Languedoc, and pretty nearly the 
 fame method obferved in other manufaftories : 
 Suppofe you want to make a mixed coffee colour 
 cloth, you dye 350 pounds of wool in this 
 colour, which is called the wool of the bafis, 
 that is to fay, the predominating colour of the 
 fluff. You then take five pounds of wool dyed 
 in the red of madder, or kermes, and two pounds 
 dyed a king's blue. Thefe are called ths mixing 
 wools; 
 
 Thefe 
 
DYING WOOL. 2IS 
 
 Thefe wools are diftributed to fcveral women 
 ftanding in a circle, about five or fix feet from 
 the manager, who ftands in the midft of the 
 circle with a (lick in his hand. This procefs 
 generally requires eight or ten; among whom 
 the wool is entirely diftributed. In the prefent 
 cafe, for example, fix of them carries the coffee 
 coloured wool for the bafis, one the blue, and 
 another the red: they are arranged in fuch a 
 manner that three of them go firft with the 
 coffee colour, then the red, afterwards the other 
 three, with the remainder of the coffee colour, 
 and at laft the blue. When there is a greater 
 number of colours, they are diftributed in the 
 fame manner. 
 
 When the women are thus difpofed, they walk 
 flowly round the manager, obfervrng always to 
 keep an equal diftance, and at every ftep to 
 throw a fmall fleece at his feet, with this 
 difference, that thofe who carry the red and 
 blue, having but a very fmall quantity, throw 
 very little at a time, whereas the others fhould 
 throw a great deal more. Mean while the man 
 keeps ftirring the wool with his ftick till the 
 mixture is complete, when it is given to be 
 carded. 
 
 This mixture is fo perfeflly finiftied by the 
 cards, that it is impoffible to diftinguifh any 
 one colour in particular: it is then fpun, the 
 cloth manufactured, and carried to the fulling 
 mill. It is eafy to conceive that this mixture 
 ihould be very accurately made; for ftiould the 
 colours be unequal, the cloth would appear 
 Ipotted. 
 
 P 4 As, 
 
2i6 THE ART OF 
 
 As, from the compofition of thefe mixtures, 
 it is impofTible to form an exaft judgement of 
 the effeft produced by the combinations of their 
 various colours in different proportions, I fhall 
 explain the method of making thefe experi- 
 ments in miniature 3 and when you are content 
 with the colour produced in this manner by a 
 mixture of other colours, in a known proportion, 
 it may be executed at large, with a firm perfua- 
 fion that the colour of the fluff will be equal to 
 thofe of the patterns. 
 
 CHAP. XXXIII. 
 
 The method of preparing Felts for trial, 
 
 ' I ''HIS little' manoeuvre is very fimple, but very 
 "■' ufeful, as by it you will be enabled to 
 judge, in a quarter of an hour, what the fluff 
 will be after it is manufaftured, and even en- 
 tirely drelTed. For this purpofe you take wool 
 of different colours, and having accurately 
 .weighed each, the mixture is made with 
 the fingers in what proportions you think 
 proper i but the whole in fuch a fmall quantity, 
 that the mixture when finilhed, is no bigger 
 than the fize of your hand. It is then moiflened 
 with a little oil, and carded with fmall cards till 
 the colours are blended together and perfedlly 
 well mixed J you then take this wool, which is 
 exceedingly loofe, and in the fquare fliape of the 
 cards j you fold this in four, and prefs it lightly be- 
 tween the hands. It is then dipped in a flrong 
 folution of foap in cold water j it is again taken 
 
 out 
 
DYING WOOL. 2t7 
 
 out and fqueezed hard between the hands at feve- 
 ral tinnes, fometimes clapping it from one hand 
 to the other. It is afterv/ards rubbed lightly 
 between the hands, by which means it is in fome 
 degree felted. It is again foaked in foap and 
 v/ater, and again fulled, till it has acquired a proper 
 confiftence refembling that of cloth. This Felt 
 is then a perfeft pattern of what the cloth will 
 be when manufactured : for if the wool has been 
 properly fpread in the hands after carding, and 
 carefully managed, it will be as even as cloth; 
 To complete the refemblance after it has been 
 waflied, in order to cleanfe it from the foap, 
 it fhould be dried, and, having put it between 
 two papers, preffed with a hot iron. 
 
 When fatisfied with the colour of the Felt, 
 you proceed in the mixture for th'e cloth, obferv- 
 ing carefully the fame proportions, when there 
 is no doubt but it will refemble the Felt ; for 
 the different coloured wools are not only as well 
 mixed in the Felt as in cloth, but the foap ufed 
 in the fulling, produces alfo the fame effe6t as 
 the fulling mill, with refpeft to the cloth. 
 There are feveral dark colours, efpecially where 
 there is a mixture of black and grey, which lofe 
 fo much of their colour in the fulling, that it 
 is neceffary to dye them a deeper colour than 
 you i-ntend they Ihould remain. This defed; in 
 the darkening colour does not prevent it from 
 Handing the air; but, as I have already faid, it 
 is eafily fpotted with acrid liquors. 
 
 The colours darkened in the indigo and paflel 
 vat lofe nothing by fulling; hence they are 
 never made darker than the colour required. 
 
 The 
 
2i8 THE ART OF 
 
 The Felts produce the fame efFcft, and you may 
 be aflured that the fluff will lofe.no more by the 
 fulling than the Felt by foap and water; confe- 
 quently, this preliminary operation may be con- 
 fidered as a certain guide in the choice and affort- 
 ment of wools for the compofition of mixed 
 cloths. 
 
 The Felts are better made with black than 
 with white foapi but it gives them a difagreeable 
 fmell, which is with difficulty wafhed off. 
 
 Felts may be alfo dyed when made, as in cafes 
 where you would have one colour cover all the 
 reft: the fluff fhould then be mixed with the 
 fame colours as the Felt, and dipped in the 
 fame dye; but this fhould be done only when the 
 ftuff has been fulled, fliorn fine, and ready for 
 drefTing. This method is ufeful when there is 
 cochineal in the mixture ; becaufe when cochi- 
 neal is required for mixed fluffs, you fhould 
 have a frefh folution of it, in which the cloth 
 fhould be dipped, when it has no other drefTing to 
 receive than what is giver; to a white cloth when 
 it comes out of the dye. 
 
 lie 
 
^he Method of Dying WooLEusfal/e colours. 
 
 I 
 
 CHAP. XXXIV. 
 
 Have obferved in the beginning of this 
 trcatife, that the Art of Dying Woolens 
 is divided into great, good or true, and lefler 
 or falfe dye. The regulations have determined 
 the quality of the fluffs which ought to be 
 dyed true, and of thofe which may be dyed 
 falfe. This diftin6lion is founded on this prin- 
 ciple, that fluffs of a certain value, generally 
 ufed for outfide garments, require a colour 
 more folid and durable than thofe of a lower 
 price, which would neceflarily become dearer, 
 and more difficult to vend, if obliged to be dyed 
 in the good dye. 
 
 I have related, with as much precifion and ac- 
 curacy as pofTible, the method of producing all 
 imaginable colours in the good dye. I Ihall 
 now proceed in the fame manner with re- 
 gard to falfe colours j and will teach the man- 
 ner of producing the fame colours with ingre- 
 dients different from thofe which I have hitherto 
 mentioned, and which, though they want the 
 folidity of the firft, have the advantage of being 
 much brighter and more lively; they alfo give 
 a more uniform colour, and with much greater 
 facility. 
 
 I fhall not in this fpecies of dying obferve the 
 
 fame order as for the true dye j becaufe in this 
 
 t we 
 
2lo THEARTOF 
 
 we know of no primitive colours. There being 
 
 but few of them which fcrve as a bafis to the 
 
 others. 
 
 I iliall now proceed in the following order, 
 and (hall begin with the names of the ingredients 
 which ought to be particularly preferred for dying 
 falfe colours; I fhall then give the manner 
 of ufing each of thefe ingredients, and of obtain- 
 ing the feveral colours they are capable of 
 furnifhing. Some of them yield colours fo 
 much alike, that it were impofiible to mention 
 them feparately, without tedious and embar- 
 raffing repetitions. The following are the 
 ingredients hitherto known: viz. 
 
 Flock, or goat's hair maddered, archil, log- 
 wood, brafil wood, fuftic, the roucou, grains 
 of Avignon, and turmerick. I fhall in this 
 place make no mention of faunders or foot, 
 though ingredients particularly eftcemed for 
 dying falfe colours, having already given direc- 
 tions for ufing them in Chap. XIX. on Fawn 
 colours. 
 
 CHAP. XXXV. 
 
 Of Flock or Goafs hair, 
 
 'T^ HERE are in the dying of Flock, or Goat's 
 Hair, two preparations very diiferent 
 from each other ; the firfl is with madder, ufed 
 for the good dye; the fecond, for its folution 
 and ufe in falfe colours. The Dye of Goat's Hair 
 was form.erly permitted for the good dye ; but this 
 was rather becaufe it is a madder dye, than from 
 
 any 
 
D Y I N G W O O L. 5i2r 
 
 any experiment afcertaining its folidity. I 
 know from indubitable trials that no colour 
 fades fooncr, for which reafon, doubtlefs, it was 
 confined by the new Regulations of 1737 to the 
 dying of falfe colours. Nevcrthelefs as the 
 fame Regulations prohibited the ufe, or even the 
 pofTcflion of madder to the lejfer dyers, it was 
 ena(5led that none but dyers true fhould be per- 
 mitted to madder hair, and the others to ufe it. 
 
 This maddering of Goat's Hair fhould have 
 been mentioned in Chap. XVII. of this treatife; 
 but I chofe to relate in fucceflion the operations 
 which neceflarily bear fome affinity to each 
 other, rather than to fcrupuloufly confine myfelf 
 to the diftinftion of the fuperior and inferior 
 method of Dying. 
 
 For maddering hair, you take four pounds 
 of cow's or goat's hair, well opened and divided, 
 that the colour may penetrate the - better. It 
 fhould boil for two hours in a fufficient quantity 
 of four water ; it fhould afterwards be put to 
 drain for an hour, and then immerfed in a 
 middling cauldron, half full of water, with four 
 pounds of roche alum, two pounds of red tartar, 
 and one pound of madder. The whole fhould 
 boil for fix hours, adding hot water in proportion 
 as the liquor wafles. It is then fufl^ered to re- 
 main in this liquor all night and the next 
 day. The third day it is taken our, and put 
 in a baiket to drain; but fome Dyers leave it 
 in the cauldron for eight days, though it is by 
 this means often fpoilt j part of the copper being 
 corroded by the liquor. Having well wafhed 
 thefe four pounds of maddered hair, you fill a 
 
 middling 
 
222 THEARTOF 
 
 middling copper two thirds full, one half four, 
 and the other half common water : when the 
 liquor is ready to boil, you add eight pounds 
 of madder, well broken and rubbed between 
 th€ hands. The madder being mixed in the 
 liquor, you add four pounds of hair, letting 
 the whole boil fix hours. The hair is well 
 wafhed, and the next day it is maddered a fecond 
 time, and in the fame manner, except that it 
 requires only half the quantity of madder. 
 After this fecond maddering it Ihould be well 
 wafhed and dryed : it will be then almoft black, 
 and fit for ufe. 
 
 This operation fliews that four pounds of hair 
 has imbibed the colour of thirteen pounds of 
 madder. Nevcrthelefs there remains fome 
 colour in the liquor, which is therefore called 
 an old madder Vat, and is kept for particular 
 occafions, as for tobacco colour, cinnamon 
 colour, and feveral others. 
 
 When the hair is thus maddered by the great 
 Dyer, he fells it to the lejfer^ who has a right to 
 diffolve and ufe it. It is difTolved in the following 
 manner: 
 
 Though this is the common method, it is 
 attended with fome difficulty, known only to a 
 very fmall number of Dyers. 
 
 At half after feven in the morning you put 
 fix buckets of clean water into a common caul- 
 dron, and when the water is warm you throw 
 into it five pounds of pot-afh, well pounded. 
 The whole fhould boil till eleven o'clock ; but 
 the liquor being confiderably diminifiied, it 
 Ihould be removed into a fmall er copper, taking 
 
 care 
 
DYING WOOL. 223 
 
 care to let the dregs of the pot-afh firfl: fettle. 
 You then take a bucket of the liquor, and re- 
 turn it into the firfl copper, after it has been 
 well cleaned, and a little fire put under it. The 
 four pounds of maddered hair is then fcattered 
 in, by little and little, and at the fame time a 
 little addition of the warm faline liquor, out of 
 the fmall cauldron, in order to check the 
 boiling. 
 
 When the hair is entirely diflblved, and the 
 liquor of the fmall cauldon put into the middling 
 one, you throw a bucket of clean water on the 
 dregs of the pot-alh, which remain in the little 
 cauldron. This water ferves to replenifh the 
 middling cauldron in proportion as it evaporates. 
 The hair is entirely diflblved by the power of 
 the pot-afli, fo that from the firfl half hour not 
 a fingle hair remains. The liquor then becomes 
 a very deep red. The whole is boiled in this 
 manner, without any addition, till three o'clock 
 in the afternoon, that the folution of the hair 
 may be entirely accompliflied. You then fix 
 a flick acrofs the copper, on which you fee 
 a bucket of fermented urine ; but you fhould 
 firfl have a little hole made in the bottom of the 
 bucket which fliould be filled with flraw, fo that 
 the urine may run very flowly into the copper. 
 While it runs you make it boil hard, replenifhing 
 with urine what went off by evaporation. This 
 operation lafts five hours, during which time it 
 is fupplyed with three buckets of urine. When 
 the ebullition is violent, it fhould run through 
 a flronger net than when it is moderate. You 
 mufl obferve, that ic is on account of the fmall 
 
 quantity 
 
224 THEARTOF 
 
 quantity of the hair ufed for this experiment, 
 that it requires five pounds of pot-afh ; but when 
 you diffolve thirty pounds of hair at the fame 
 time, which is the quantity generally ufed by 
 the Dyers in Paris, you add only twelve ounces 
 of pot-afli to every pound of Goat's hair. 
 
 During the whole of the operation you per- 
 ceive a pretty flrong fmell of the volatile fait of 
 urine; there is a conftant fkim on the furface 
 of the liquor, which is at the beginning pretty 
 brown, and becomes more fo after the addition 
 of the urine. When it ceafes to rife, and that 
 the bubbles are fmall, the liquor is fufficiently 
 done; which was the cafe in the prefent opera- 
 tion near eight o'clock in the evening. The 
 fire is then taken away, the cauldron well 
 covered with the lid and coverings, and in this 
 manner it is left till the next day. Samples of 
 the liquor was feveral times taken out, from 
 three to eight o'clock in the evening, and bits 
 of paper fteeped in it: the firfl: were very brown, 
 but they became more and more light and uni- 
 form in proportion as the volatile fpirit of the 
 urine afted on the colouring particles of the 
 folution. 
 
 There remains nothing more but to dye 
 the wool in the liquor when thus prepared ; it 
 is called the melting of Flock, and is the lead 
 difficult operation in the Art of Dying. You 
 proceed in the following manner: A quarter 
 of an hour before you dye, you put into the 
 folution a little, bit of roche alum, very clean, 
 ftirring the liquor till it is diflblved. The 
 liquor in the middling cauldron having been 
 
 covered 
 
D Y I N G W O O L. 225 
 
 covered all night, and the fire not extinguifhed, 
 it was (till hot enough to burn the hand. The 
 cleared of it was put into a fmall caul- 
 dron, with a fufficient quantity of warm water; 
 and the wool, which had been firft dyed with 
 weld, being dipped in it, became a fine orange, 
 inclining to fire colour; but this colour is much 
 better produced in the good dye, as may be 
 feen in the XXVth chapter of this treatife. 
 
 Twenty hanks of white wool are then dip- 
 ped in the fame vat, one after another, be- 
 ginning with the darkeft, and fuffering them to 
 remain for a longer or fhorter time, according to 
 the colour required. In this manner you pro- 
 duce a regular gradation, from Nacarat to cherry 
 colour. You (liould be attentive that in pro- 
 portion as the liquor confumes, it fhould be 
 replenifhed from the middling copper, and very 
 careful not to ftir the fediment at the bottom : 
 you fhould be alfo careful to keep a little conftant 
 fire under the fmall copper, fufficient to pre- 
 ferve the liquor of an equal heat. You pro- 
 ceed thus to dip the wool, till all the liquor 
 is ufed and the colour quite exhaufted. You 
 cannot, however, pofTibly dye the light colours 
 in this liquor; becaufe, when fufficiently exhaufted 
 for thefe colours, it is generally loaded with im- 
 purities, by which thefe fet of fhades are de- 
 prived of their requifite vivacity. 
 
 This, therefore, is the method of producing 
 
 colours lighter than cherry colours. You put five 
 
 or fix hanks of the darkeft of the wool, which had 
 
 Jbecu dyed with the flock into a copper pf 
 
 Q^ clean 
 
Tib THEARTOF 
 
 clean water. The boiling water imbibes the 
 colour of the wool; and in this frefh liquor the 
 reft of the wool is dyed, from a cherry colour 
 to the lighteft flefh colour, obferying always to- 
 begin with the darkeft fhades. 
 
 Dyers in general, who are either unacquainted 
 with the method of melting the flock, or un- 
 willing to take the pains, buy fome pounds of this 
 fcarlet of flock, which they boil in this manner 
 for their paleft colours, and which fucceeds with 
 great eafe. But even this operation proves how 
 little is to be depended on the folidity of a colour 
 fo eafily difcharged by boiling water. In faft, 
 it is one of the worft colours in the art of dying, 
 and therefore prohibited by the Regulations ^ ex- 
 cept for the leflfer dye. 
 
 It is evident, from this Angular operation, that 
 a very bad colour may be obtained from perhaps 
 the very beft ingredient in the art of dying. 
 Madder is acknowledged as fuchj neverthelefs 
 •when this dyed hair, though with all the necef- 
 farry precautions to confirm the colour as much 
 as pofllble, is diflblved in a folution of pot-afli, 
 its colour, by acquiring additional brightnefs, 
 lofes all its folidity, and can be confidered only 
 in the clafs of the moft unfteady colours. 
 
 One would imagine that the uncertainty of 
 this colour might be attributed to the wool hav- 
 ing received no preparation j but I have experi- 
 enced the contrary, having dipped wools prepared 
 in the common and in various other methods, 
 which, fo far from having acquired a greater foli- 
 dity, were even lefs bright than thofe which had 
 
 had 
 
DYING WOOL. 227 
 
 had ITO preparation. Though I fay that wool 
 receives no preparation for the flock dye, it is 
 neverthclefs neceflary that that defigned for the 
 light Ihades Ihould be previoufly fulphured, the 
 colour being thereby rendered more bright and 
 lively, as the fulphur whitens the bafis and 
 cleanfes it from all impurities j but this is not 
 ufually praflifed, except for worfteds intended 
 for work, or the fabrication of tapeftry. 
 
 This operation is not, however, performed by 
 the Dyers themfelves, on account of the fmell 
 and other inconveniences. Neverthclefs, to give 
 them fomc idea of this procefs : the white 
 •wool is hung upon :rods over a chafing di(h of 
 coals, on which they fprinkle feme powdered 
 fulphur. The chamber door Ihould be then fhut, 
 in order to confine the fmoke till the wool is 
 entirely whitened. This preparation gives viva- 
 city to the rofe, cherry, andfielli colour, produced 
 by the hair folution. 
 
 The reafon of the little folidity of the colours 
 of the madder root, when obtained by means of 
 the hair, may be eafily accounted for. In the 
 firft operation of maddering the hair, as much 
 as pofTible of the red colour is fixed by the 
 alum and tartar; but being overloaded with co- 
 lour, it is eafy to conceive that the fuper- 
 fluous atoms applied upon thofe previoufly re- 
 ceived, the firft are in fad the only ones retained 
 in the pores of the hair, and fixed by the falts. 
 This colour therefore, though very deep, would 
 lofe great part of its intenfity by boiling in any 
 liquor whatfoever, even common water ; but by 
 the addition of an equal weight of pot-alh to the 
 Qj2, hair 
 
428 THEARTOF 
 
 hair already dyed, you confequently produce a 
 very ftrong lixivium of fixed alkaline fait. I 
 have already obferved, that alkaline lixiviums, 
 when very powerful, deftroys the natural texture 
 of all animal fubftances; as alfo of gums and 
 refms. The lixivium of pot-afh in the prefcnt 
 operation is very ftrong and acrid ; confequently 
 a proper menftruum for the hair, which is an 
 animal fubftance, and which it therefore inftantly 
 diflblves with a brifk fermentation. The natural 
 texture of each hair is confequently deftroyed; 
 and at the fame time the fides of the pores being 
 broken and reduced to imperceptible particles, 
 thefe fides have no longer cither confiftence of 
 elafticity fufHcient to retain either the falts or 
 the colouring atoms which adhered to them. 
 Therefore the animal particles of the hair, the 
 colouring particles of the madder, and the al- 
 kaline falts of the pot-afh, being diffolved, form 
 a new mixture which can no longer furnifh 
 a folid colour; becaufe, from all thefe falinc 
 particles, there cannot form a fufficient quantity 
 capable of cryftalization. In fhort there is no 
 pofTibility of its producing a vitriolated tartar, 
 becaufe it abounds too much with an alkaline 
 fait. 
 
 To enliven the dufky dye of the madder ap- 
 plied to the hair, and afterwards difperfed by 
 the folution of the hair in the mixture above- 
 mentioned, they add a confiderable quantity 
 of ftale urine: an additional circumftance to 
 deftroy all pofTibility of cryftalition : for it ap* 
 pears that wool, if not prepared with other falts, 
 when fleeped in a folution of this kind, will 
 
 receive 
 
DYING WOOL. 229 
 
 receive only a fuperficial colour, incapable of 
 withftanding the fmalleft trials. 
 
 But wool, even prepared with alum and tartar, 
 will imbibe from the folutionof hair a colour no 
 more folid than wool that had had no preparation 
 of thefe falts. This is a fingularity eafily ac- 
 counted for J for when a liquor, abounding with 
 fixed akali, encounters the remaining tartar 
 of the preceding freparatioUy the tartar then 
 changes its nature and becomes a foluble tartar. 
 
 It will be alledgcd, perhaps, that there re- 
 mains in the pores of the prepared wool fomc 
 particles of alum ; and that thefe particles of alum 
 and fome of this fame fait, which were put into the 
 folution of the hair, muft form, with the alkaline 
 fait of pot-afli, a vitriolated tartar, capable, ac- 
 cording to my principles, of fixing the colour. 
 I anfvver, firft, that the combination of the 
 two falts, requifite towards the formation of 
 vitriolated tartar, is prevented by the urine; 
 and that though this impediment Ihould not exift, 
 the quantity of the fait formed will not be a 
 fufficient gluten for all the pores of the wool, 
 fo as to enable them to receive and retain 
 the colouring atoms. {Befides the alkaline fait 
 in the liquor, by which the hair had been 
 entirely diflblved, is ftill capable of diflblving 
 the wool if boiled in it as long as the hair. 
 Notwithftanding you do not give the liquor that 
 degree of heat necelTary for this total deftruflion, 
 it is eafy to conceive, that though the fum of 
 the deftrudlive adtion be not the fame, at leaft a 
 part of it exifts, or rather a fraction, which, 
 chough not a thoufandth part, is ftill fufficient 
 0.3 w 
 
23© THEARTOF 
 
 to corrode the fides of the pores of the wool, 
 and to extend them in fuch manner as to render 
 them incapable of retaining the colouring atoms. 
 Add to this that the hair is diflblved in the liquor, 
 and confequently mixed with the colouring par- 
 ticles of the madder j that the immediate con- 
 ta(5t of the colouring particles is impeded by the 
 heterogeneous part, and that all thefe impedi- 
 ments uniting, confpire to render this the leaftfolid 
 of all the colours of the lefler dye. This is too 
 plainly confirmed by experience^ for a fkein of 
 worfted dyed red by means of the hair, will be 
 entirely difcharged of its colour in boiling water, 
 
 CHAP. XXXVI. 
 
 O/" Archil and the method of ufing it, 
 
 ARCHIL is a foft pafte of a deep red 
 colour, which, by being fimply diluted in 
 hot water, furnifhes a great number of different 
 ihades ; the moft common fort, which is at the 
 fame time the leaft beautiful and the worft, 
 is generally fabricated at Auvergne, from a 
 licheriy or kind of mofs, very common on the 
 rocks of this province. It is diftinguilhed by 
 the name of Auvergne or land Archil j the 
 other, which is called herb Archil, or of the 
 Canaries, or of Cape Verde, is much better. 
 It is prepared at Lyons, at Paris, in England, 
 and in other places. 
 
 The Archil of Auvergne, called alfo Perelky 
 is a kind of cruft or mofs, gathered on the rocks. 
 It is bruifed and mixed with lime, and for feve- 
 
 ral 
 
DYING WOOL. 231 
 
 ral days fprinkled with ftale urine. At the 
 expiration of eight or ten days it becomes red 
 by fermentation, and is fit for ufe. 
 
 The herb Archil, which is the lichen grams ^ Po- 
 lypoides tinBorius SexatiliSy CoralJ. 40. on the Fucus 
 kerucofusT'incoriuSi J, B. 3. Inft. R. herb. 568, &c. 
 grows in the Canary Iflands, clofe to the rocks, 
 and chiefly upon thofe which are neareft the fea. 
 All thefe iflands produce Archil; but that 
 which grows on the iflands of Gomer and Fer is 
 accounted the bell. It is a dark thriving plant, 
 with little white fpots on the top. [^Memoirs of 
 M. Poriier, Conful, dated from Sainte Croix of TV- 
 neriffey the i^th of Jan. 1731.] One year with 
 another ihey gather on the Ifle of 'J'eneriffe 500 
 quintals; 400 at the Canaries ^ 300 at Fuerta 
 Ventura y 300 at Lanjarotto ; 300 at Gomer e, and 
 800 on the Ifle of Fer. 
 
 The Archil of Teneriffe^ the Canaries, and 
 Palene, is farmed out by the King of Spain to 
 particular people. In the laft place, in 1730, 
 they farmed it at the rate of 1500 piallres, and 
 befides paid from fifteen to twenty reals per 
 quintal to the gatherers. The other iflands be- 
 long to difl^erent powers. 
 
 Archil was formerly worth no more at St.Croix, 
 in the Ifland of 'Teneriffe, than three or four piaf- 
 tres the quintal; but fince the year 1725 you 
 can fcarce buy it for ten, the demand for it being 
 fo great for London, Amfl:erdam, Italy, and 
 Marfeilles. In 1730 it was fold in London at 
 four pounds fl:erling the quintal. 
 
 Archil is alfo produced in the Madeiras, Porta 
 Santo, &c. 
 
 0^4 Near 
 
232 THE ART OP 
 
 Near the latter end of the year 1 730, the 
 captain of an Englifh vcflel, who came fronci the 
 Cape-de-Verde iflands, brought a bag of Archil 
 to St. Croix as a fample. He comrnunicated his 
 fecret to fome Spanifh and Genoefe merchants, 
 who in the month of July 1731, manned a veflel 
 with eight Spaniards accuftomed to gather the 
 Archil, and fent it to the f^me ijlands. They 
 landed on the Iflands of St., Anthony and St. Vin- 
 cent, where they found it in great abundance, 
 and in a few days completed a freight of 500 
 quintals of this plant, without any other ex- 
 pence than a fingle piaftre per quintal as a pre- 
 lent to the governour. The Archil of the Cape- 
 Verde Iflands appeared larger, longer, and better 
 than that of the Canaries t probably becaufe it 
 was not the cuftom to gather it every year as at 
 the Canaries. 
 
 Thofe who prepare the herb Archil, make a 
 nayllery of this preparation; but it is pretty ac- 
 curately defcribed in a treatife o( M. Pierre Jntoine 
 iVf/VM", called. Nova Playitamm genera, printecj 
 in 4to, 1729, p. 78, in thefe words: 
 
 ** InfeSlores ' ( Flcrentina) banc plantam appellant 
 mernaculo '/Wfuine Rocella vel Oriella, vel Rafpa, 
 ejufque opejericum i^ lanam, nonfolum peculiari quo- 
 dam colore jiib purpurea imhuunt, quern Columbi- 
 num 'vacant y ob Jimilitudinem cum collo Columhino, 
 Jed etiam aliis compofitionlhus admijcent, ut diverjos 
 color es efficiant, prarparmt vera illam hoc modo: 
 Flantam in pulverem adeo ienuem reducunt, ut per 
 eernicuium facillime trajiciatur. Veinde, meters 
 Maris urina (nam mulieris pemicioja habetur) levi- 
 fer iUam irrorant vafe ligneo content am, ^ Jemel in 
 
 4i; 
 
DYING WOOL. 233 
 
 He egitant-y at que eodent tempore in earn demittunt 
 aliquantttlum cineris exjoda, donee ^ expleto opere, ejus 
 quantitas fingulis diebus ipmijfa, ad quantitatem piiU 
 njeris, fit in rations i ad iQ-t fi'^e pluSj five minus ; 
 prout planta eft magis craffa vel tenuis ^ vel recens, 
 vel vetus: idque fty donet latum compofitum pr^e- 
 di5lam Color mn Columbinum exhibeat. Pojfea lignco 
 doliolo reponunt, £sJ* urinam vel lixivium calcisy aut 
 ^ypfi quo dealhantur parietes./uper infundunty ut tot a 
 quantitas contegatur^ £ff ad ufumfervant. Compofiti- 
 cneni banc vocant Oricello, forte a nomine planta Ro- 
 cella. Siifpicari fiibit nonmdlas hujus generis plantas, 
 ■ eodem vel alio modo pr<eparataSy eundem Colorem vel 
 alium prabere poffe. ^uod nunc innuijfefujjiciaty ut 
 injlituta experiment a ad has cogitationis deducant." 
 
 In a little Italian book, DeW-arte TinSforia or 
 Pli£iOy finall i2mo. page 210, the preparation 
 of Archil is defcribed in the following manner; 
 ^* Take one pound of the Orfeille of the Levant, 
 V€ry cleans moiften it with a little urine; add 
 to this, fal-ammoniac, fal-gemmse, and faltpetre, 
 of each two ounces; pound them well, mix 
 them together, and let them remain fo during 
 twelve days, ftirring them twice a day; and 
 then, to keep the herb conilantly moid, add a 
 Jittle urine, and in this fituation let it remain 
 eight days longer, continuing to ftir it; you 
 afterwards add a pound and half of pot-alh, 
 well pounded, and a pint and halfof ftale urine. 
 Let it remain ftill eight days longer, ftirring it 
 ^s ufual ; after which you add the fame quantity 
 pf urine, and at the expiration of five or fix 
 (days, two drachms of arfenic i it will be then 
 fit for ufc. 
 
 In 
 
234 THEARTOF 
 
 In imitation of this procefs, reje6ling what I 
 thought ufelefs, I put half a pound of the Orfeille 
 of Cape Verdy hacked or cut very fmall with a 
 pair of fheers, into a glafs vefTel with a ftopper. 
 I moiftened it withfonae fermented urine; I then 
 added a fufficient quantity of flaked lime, for 
 this firft time about an ounce. I ftirred this 
 mixture well, every two hours for the firft day. 
 The next day I added a little more fermented 
 urine, and a little lime, ftirring it four times the 
 fecond day. The Orfeille grew purple but the 
 lime remained white. The volatile alkali which 
 exhaled when uncovered, was very penetrating. 
 The third day, I put a little more urine, a little 
 lime, and ftirred it four times during the day. 
 The fourth day the lime began to take a purple 
 colour; in ftiort, it became entirely a light 
 purple at the end of the week, and during the 
 next week, it became darker and darker, in fuch 
 a manner, that at the fortnight's end it was fit for 
 ufe. But, as that which was prepared by Lafond 
 with permiffion, has a violet fmell when fold, 
 I kept mine in a covered veflel during a month 
 to let the urinous volatile fpirit evaporate. At 
 the expiration of three weeks I perceived, when 
 the veflel was uncovered, the violet fmell ; and 
 the fmall quantity of the liquor remaining at the 
 bottom of the veflTel had acquired a very beau- 
 tiful crimfon. In this manner it is pofllble to 
 prepare the Archil with urine and flaked lime 
 only, efpecially if intended to be made into paftc, 
 without the addition of the other ingredients 
 mentioned in the above procefs. To develope 
 the red colour concealed within this plant by 
 
 an 
 
DYING WOOL. 235 
 
 an urinous volatile fpirit, excited by a terreoiis 
 alkali, is all that is required. 
 
 I have at the fame time, and in the fame man- 
 ner, prepared a pound of PerelUj or Orjetlle de terre^ 
 from the Auvergne rocks, which at the ex- 
 piration of the week had imbibed a tolerable 
 deep colour, was much darker at the end of 
 the fortnight, when I dyed a fample, and fuc- 
 ceeded prefedtly well. 
 
 To afcertain the good effefl of the Archil, the 
 Dyer fpreads this pafte a little moiftened on the 
 back of his hand, where he leaves it dry, and 
 afterwards wafhes the fpot with cold water. 
 If the fpot remains difcharged only a little, he 
 concludes his Archil to be good. 
 
 The Lichen Tin^orius Sexatilis is not the only 
 plant of this genus capable of being made into 
 Archil i there are ftveral other kinds of mofs 
 that produce a tolerable fine red. Mr. Jeflieu 
 brought me fome from the forefl: of Fontainbleau, 
 which with lime and urine took a purple colour. 
 There is an eafy method of trying which of 
 them will undergo this change. 
 
 I put about three drachms of this plant into 
 a fmall glafs veffel ; I moiftened it with volatile 
 fpirit of fal-ammoniac, and an equal quantity of 
 the lime water j to this I added a pinch of fal- 
 ammoniac, and then covered it clofe with a wet 
 bladder tied round the veflel. If the Lichen be of 
 a colouring nature, the fmall quantity of liquor, 
 which, by inclining the veffel, runs from the 
 plant, will have imbibed a fine deep crimfon, 
 and the liquor afterwards evaporating, the plant 
 
 itfelf 
 
236 THE ART OF 
 
 itfelf will be of the fame colour. If neither 
 the plant nor the liquor is coloured, you have 
 nothing to hope for, and it were in vain to attennpt 
 a larger preparation. 
 
 I now proceed to the method of ufing 
 the Orfeille or Archil j but I fhall fpeak oniy 
 of the Orfeille d'herbe or Canary, noting only 
 the difference in ufing that of the Auvergne. You 
 fill a cauldron with clear water, and when it 
 begins to grow warm, you put in as much of 
 the Archil as you think proper, in proportion to 
 the quantity of wool or fluff to be dyed, and to 
 the fhade you would give them. You then 
 heat the liquor till it is ready to boil, and dip 
 the fluffs without any other preparation, only 
 leaving thofe intended for the darker a longer 
 time. When the Archil furnifhes no more 
 colour, you heat the liquor till it is ready to 
 boil. The colour obtained in this manner 
 from the Orfeille de tine, or d'Auvergne, is more 
 dull than at the firft heating ; but, on the con- 
 trary, the herb Archil lofes nothing of its bright- 
 nefs though kept boiling from the beginning. 
 The laft is in fa6t dearer, but it yields much 
 more colour j confequently the ufe of it is 
 rnore advantageous, even though you fliould 
 pot confider its fuperior goodnefs and beauty. 
 The natural colour of each Archil, obtained in 
 this manner, is a fine gris-de-lini inclining to violet. 
 You may alfo procure from it the violet, the 
 couleur de penfee, de amaranthey and other fuch 
 colours, by previoufly giving the fluffs a bafis of 
 tlue, 
 
 4 - You 
 
DYING WOOL. 237 
 
 You will obferve, that to make the light 
 
 fliadcs of thcfe colours as bright as poflible, 
 
 they iliould be previoufly fulphured, as in the 
 
 preceding chapter. 
 
 This is the finnplefl: method of ufing the 
 Archil ; but the colours refulting from it have 
 no folidity. One would be inclined to think 
 that it were better to give the wool and (luffs 
 a previous preparation, as for the good dye 
 cither with nnadder, cochineal, &c. I am how- 
 ever convinced of the contrary, having tryed 
 the preparation of alum and tartar without any 
 
 cffeft. 
 
 There is neverthelefs a method of giving the 
 herb Archil almoft as much folidity, as of the 
 good dyes; but then you deflroy its natural 
 colour, viz. gris-de-liUi inftead of which it pro- 
 duces red, fcarlet, or rather the colour diftin- 
 guifhed by the name of half -fcarlet. It alfo 
 produces the colour of kermes, Venetian fcar- 
 let, and feveral other fhades upon the red and 
 orange. Thefe colours are procured from the 
 Archil by means of acids, and lliould be confi- 
 dered as much more folid than the others, though 
 not {lri<5lly in grain. 
 
 There are two methods of obtaining thefe 
 red colours from the Orfeille. The firll is, to 
 incorporate an acid in the compofition ufed for 
 making this plant into pafte, called by the Dyers 
 Archil. I have been alTured that it is poflible 
 to make it violet, or even blue, which is pro- 
 bably produced by a mixture offome alkali ;but 
 I confefs, that notwithftanding upwards of twenty 
 trials for this purpofe I could not fucceed. I will 
 
 therefore 
 
238 THE ART OF 
 
 therefore proceed to the fecond method, by 
 which I myfelf obtained a fine red, and tolerably 
 folid, having tryed it four times with fuccefs. 
 
 You take the prepared Or/'^///<? of the Canaries, 
 difFufing it as ufual in warm water, and add 
 to it a little of the common fcarlet compofition, 
 which is a folution of block-tin, in aqua-regia 
 diluted. This acid immediately brightens the 
 folution, and gives it a fcarlet colour. The 
 llufF or wool is then dipped, and fufFered to 
 remain in it, till it has acquired the fhade you 
 would chufe. If the colour be not fufficiently 
 fiery, you add a little more of the compofition ; 
 but for this fpecies of dying you purfue pretty 
 much the fame method as for common fcarlet. 
 I endeavoured to accomplifh it by two dip- 
 pings in dying fcarlet, that is to fay, to boil the 
 ftuffwith the compofition, and a little Archil, and 
 to finilh it afterwards with a greater quantity 
 of each, in which I fucceeded equally ; but the 
 operation is more tedious, and I fometimes 
 obtained as good a colour from one dipping 
 only. 
 
 I cannot exadlly determine the precife quantity 
 of the ingredients in this operation; firft, becaufe 
 it depends on the fhade required ; in the fecond 
 place, becaufe it is a new procefs in the Art of 
 Dying, and becaufe I have not, in this manner, 
 had occafion to dye a fufficient quantity of 
 fluffs : it is alfo known, that the fuccefs depends 
 in fome degree upon the quantity of acid in 
 the compofition. Laftly this method of dying 
 with the Archil is fo eafy that as foon as you 
 have made two or three trials, even in miniature, 
 
 you 
 
DYING WOOL. 239 
 
 you will know more than I can pofiibly teach 
 by the moft elaborate defcription. I need only 
 obferve that the more the colour of this ingre- 
 dient inclines to fcarlet, the more folid it is, 
 I have myfelf procured a great number of dif- 
 ferent Ihades, intirely obtained from the fame 
 Archil, and which confcquently differed only in 
 proportion to the quantity of the compofitionj and 
 I have always obferved, that the nwre the Archil 
 differs from its natural colour, the more folidity ic 
 acquires j fo that when I brought it to the degree 
 of half-Jcarkty it withftood the adion of the air 
 and trial, as well as thofe which are produced by 
 cochineal and madder. 
 
 If you put too much of the compofition the 
 wool becomes of a difagreeable orange colour j 
 but it has the fame effedl with cochineal, con- 
 fequently is not an evil peculiar to this fpecies 
 of dying : it is befides very eafily avoided ; as 
 it is always in your power to add more of the 
 compofition, it is bell to begin with a little 
 rather than run any rifk by putting too much. 
 
 I attempted to fubflitute various acids for 
 the compofition of fcarlet, but none of them had 
 fo good an effcdt. Vinegar never gave the 
 liquor a fufHcient r^^dnefs, and the fluff dyed in 
 it, imbibed only the colour of lees of wine, 
 which faded even as foon as the colour obtained 
 from the Archil in its natural flate. Other 
 acids made the colour dull. In fhort it feems 
 evident, that it is necefiary to unite with the red 
 of Archil, in the fame manner as with the fcarlet 
 of cochineal, a metallic bafis extremely white : 
 
 this 
 
34© THEARTOF 
 
 this bafis is the calx cf tin exifting in the com- 
 pofition. 
 
 I have repeated the fame operation with the 
 Archil of Aiivergne; but the colours refultingwerc 
 by no means either fo good or fo fine, and there- 
 fore what I have faid Ihould be underftood only 
 with regard to the herb Archil, and efpecially 
 of that fabricated at Paris by the fieur La- 
 fond. 
 
 CHAP. XXXVII. 
 
 Of Logivood, 
 
 LOGWOOD is an ingredient very much 
 ufed in the leffer dye j and it were greatly 
 to be wilhed, that it were not alfo ufed in the 
 greats which is too frequently the cafej becaufe 
 the colour furnifhed by this wood very foon lofeS 
 all its brightnefs when expofed to the air. Its 
 cheapnefs is one reafon why it is fo often ufed ; 
 but the ftrongeft reafon is, that by means of 
 different preparations, and different falts, this 
 wood produces a very great variety of colours 
 and ihades, which are with difficulty obtained 
 from the ingredients of the good dye. It is 
 however pofllble to obtain all thefe colours with- 
 out Logwood. 
 
 You have feen in Chap. XX. that Logwood 
 is neceflTary for foftening black, and making it 
 velvety, which confl:itutes the excellency of the 
 Sedan blacks; I therefore refer you to that 
 chapter, having nothing more to add concerning 
 
 the 
 
DYING WOOL. 241 
 
 the ufe of Logwood, with regard to black; I 
 have there informed you, that the blacks are 
 finilhed by the inferior dyers. I fhdl now treat 
 of other colours in which Logwood is ufed, pre- 
 mifing once for all, that when ufing wood of 
 any kind, it fhould be cut very fmall and tyed 
 in a linen bag, as the chips might not only tear 
 the fluff or wool, but would fpot wherever they 
 adhered j confequently this precaution is abfo- 
 lutely neceflary. 
 
 Logwood is ufed with galls and copperas, for 
 the various fhades of greys, inclining to flate, 
 lavender, dove, and lead colour, &c. For this 
 purpofe you fill a Cauldron full of clean water;' 
 putting into it as much nutgalls as you think 
 proper, according to the quantity of fluffs to be 
 dyed, and to the fhade required. You then add 
 a bag of Logwood, and when the whole is 
 boikd, having cooled the liquor, you immerfe 
 the fluff, throwing in by degrees fome copperas, 
 partly diffolved in water. I cannot determine 
 the quantity of thefe ingredients, as it is the 
 cuftom with inferior dyers to ufe them by guefs, 
 and as their bufinefs generally confifts in match- 
 ing fluffs, intended for linings to cloths, of which 
 they receive patterns, they begin by making them 
 at firfl, lighter than they fhould be, and then 
 darkening them to the fhade required by the 
 addition of copperas. When they perceive a 
 deficiency of Logwood, they add more after- 
 wards. This is their method when they have 
 different fhades to procure from the fame liquor, 
 and when the colour is exhaufted. Y'ou will eafily 
 
 R perceive 
 
24.2 TH^ ART OF 
 
 perceive that there is no difficulty in this procefs, 
 and that it requires only praflice, to be tolerably 
 exaft, with regard to the neceflary quantities of 
 the ingredients, and to know by the lluffs when 
 wet, whether they will have the colour required, 
 when dry. 
 
 There is, in all colours, a pretty certain method 
 of afcertaining whether the fluff will match the 
 pattern when dry s which is by wringing a little 
 corner very hard, and blowing upon it with fomc 
 violence ; you will inftantly perceive the colour it 
 will have when dry j but it is neceflary to judge 
 immediately, elfe the furrounding moifture re- 
 turning to this dry part, you may be deceived. 
 
 You may alfo procure a tolerable violet colour 
 from this wood, by boiling the wool as ufual, 
 with alum and tartar, and afterwards dipping 
 it in the decoftion of Logwood, with the addition 
 of a little alum diflblved. But you will obtain 
 a much finer colour, by previoufly woading the 
 fluff, aluming it afterwards, and then dipping 
 it in a deco<5tion of brafil wood, mixed with 
 a little Logwood; becaufe the blue bafis always 
 remains, and in fomc degree prefer ves the 
 colour. 
 
 Logwood will alfo produce a blue j but it has 
 fo little folidity, and the indigo is fo cheap, when 
 not very deep, that Logwood is feldom ufed. 
 Neverthelefs, it you would try it merely for 
 curiofity, you need only prepare a decodlion 
 of Logwood, mixed with a little blue vitriol, 
 and dip the wool, wichout any other prepa- 
 ration. 
 
 You 
 
DYING WOOL. 243 
 
 You may alfo by this means produce greens 
 [/ may add to the number of theje falje greens, that 
 are called Saxon green, Jo much ejleemed of late years in 
 Germany, as being more beautiful and much brighter 
 that any of the greens hitherto ■produced either true or 
 falfe j but it withflands no trials, and if expojed to 
 the fun for twelve days, lofes more than half its in-^ 
 tenfity. 
 
 'The compofition, fuch as I received it from Germany, 
 is made thus: Tou put into a glafs matras, three 
 parts of befl indigo, three parts cobalt, three parts 
 orpiment, and twelve parts re£fifiedoil of vitriol. This 
 produces a violent fermentation, and an effluviumwhicb 
 fhould be avoided; after twenty -four hours digejiion, you 
 pour off the liquor, by inclination, into a feparate 
 vejfel, which liquor is a very deep blue. 
 
 Tou may fubfiitute Antimony inftead of Cobalty 
 Cobalt being tnuch dearer and fear ce in France. Infhort, 
 M.Baron, Do5lcrofPhyfic, who in compliance with my 
 requeji made various experiments with the compofition, 
 found that the orpiment, the cobalt, and the antimony 
 might be omitted, and that the oil of vitriol poured 
 on the indigo, is without any other addition, fuf~ 
 ficient to produce a blue compofition as fine as the pre- 
 ceding. 
 
 The cloth fjould boil in a quarter of its weight of 
 
 alum^ to which you -may add if you pleafe, a very 
 
 fmall quantity of tartar : It fhould remain moifiened 
 
 with this preparation for three days, and fhould 
 
 afterwards bt wajhed. 
 
 The water fhould be heated till ready to boil, pour- 
 ing into it a fmall quantity of the blue compofition, when 
 the liquor infiantly becomes of a light blue. Dip 
 the prepared cloth, ftirring it, without fuffering it 
 
 R 2 tQ 
 
2U THE ART OF 
 
 /^ hil, IVhen it has imbibed ajky blue^ take it out 
 and plunge it into another cauldron^ containing a yellow 
 infufion of Turmeric well puherized: this infufion 
 Jloould be hoty but not boiling. The cloth will imbibe 
 any green /hade you pleaje^ by keeping it in the liquor 
 for a longer or jh otter time. ToJaveaJecondfirCy 
 the Turmeric may be put into the firji liquor, 
 after the blue had been exhaujled, and it will have 
 the fame effect. 
 
 Though Jilks are out of the quefiion in this treatife 
 I cannot avoid obferving that they may be dyed blue 
 and a very beautiful green ^ in the fame manner , with 
 the greatefi facility.'] in one liquor only. For this 
 purpofe you put French berries, and Verdigreafe 
 into the Logwood cauldron J this mixture gives 
 a fine green colour. It is then fuflicient to 
 dip the fluffs, till they have imbibed the 
 colour required. You will perceive that 
 you may make this green of what fhade 
 you pleafe, by proportioning the quantities 
 of the Logwood, and French berries. This 
 green is no better than the blue, and fhould each 
 of them be banifhed from the Art of Dying. I 
 have given the procefs, only becaufe I would 
 omit nothing within my knowledge, concerning 
 this art. 
 
 The mofl common ufe of Logwood in dying 
 falfe colours, is chiefly for prune, and purple, 
 and their feveral fhades. This wood with the 
 addition of nutgalls gives thefe colours to blued 
 wool, with great facility. This may be browned 
 occafionly with a little copperas j by this means 
 you eafily obtain Ihades, which are with much 
 
 more 
 
DYING WOOL. 24.5 
 
 more difficulty produced in the good dye, becaufe 
 the different degrees of darkening to your mind 
 are not fo eafily procured in the blue vat, as by 
 the help of copperas. But thefe colours fade 
 almofl immediately, fo that in a very fev/ days 
 there is a great difference between the parts 
 expofed to the air, and thofe which remain 
 covered. 
 
 Having demonflrated in the preceding chap- 
 ter, that the fcarlet compofition changed the 
 colour of the Archil, making it more folid, I 
 determined to try its effect upon logwood; but 
 though I put ever fo much, the logwood liquor 
 ftill retained its violet colour. I thought this 
 ftrangCi neverthelefs determining to reduce this 
 experiment to fomething pradicable, I dyed a 
 bit of cloth with the logwood, adding to the 
 liquor as much of the compofition as I fhould 
 have ]^ut to the fame quantity of the Archil. 
 My cloth took a tolerable good violet colour; 
 but by expofing it to the air for twelve fummer 
 days, I was convinced that it was no better for 
 the compofition. By adding a fmall quantity 
 of the cryftals of tartar in another decoftion of 
 the fame kind, I had indeed a more folid colour, 
 though confiderably different. •"f^■0^'£■£> 
 
 —^ Of THE ^- 
 
 CHAP. XXXVIII, ^CU^^^^''*^^''^,.J^ 
 
 Of Brnftl Wood. ^^^ ^ "C U*^"^' 
 
 UNDER the general denomination of Bra- 
 fii Wood, is comprehended that of Fer- 
 namlouCf of Sainte-Marthe^ mija^ariy and fomc 
 R 3 others 
 
246 THE ART OF 
 
 others needlefs to be diftinguiflied in this place, as 
 they are ufed in the fame manner : fome of them, 
 it is true, give more colour and better than 
 the other; but this is frequently occafioned by 
 fome parts of the wood having been more expofed 
 to the air than others, or perhaps in fome places 
 rotten. That which is the mod found and the 
 highefl coloured fhould be prefervcd for the ufe 
 of dying. 
 
 All thefe woods give a tolerable fine colour, 
 whether ufed alone or mixed, either with log- 
 wood or any other colouring ingredient. We 
 have juft feen that for falfe violets a little Brafil 
 wood is added to the logwood; but for wine 
 greys, or for colours ever fo little inclining to 
 red, much more is required. A very little nut- 
 galls with the Brafil is fometimes fufficient if 
 darkened with copperas; but logwood, archil, 
 or fome other fubftance, is frequently added ac- 
 cording to the fhade required. Hence it is ob- 
 vious that there is no pofTibility of prefcribing 
 any pofitive rule for this kind of procefs, on 
 account of the almoft infinite diverfity of Ihades 
 obtained from thefe different mixtures. 
 
 The natural colour of Brafil wool, and for 
 which it is moft frequently ufed, is for falfe 
 fcarletj which is neverthelefs a fine colour, 
 though inferiour to the fcarlet of cochineal or 
 gum-lac. 
 
 To obtain the colour of this wood you muft 
 make ufe of the hardeft well water: river water 
 has by no means the fame effeft. 
 
 Having boiled this wood, cut into chips, in 
 the firft water for three hotirs, the liquor is poured 
 
 intq 
 
DYING WOOL. 247 
 
 into a calk. You then pour on the Brafil wood 
 fome frefli well water, and letting it alio boil for 
 three hours, you pour this water alfo to the firft 
 liquor. This decoftion, called the juice of 
 the Brafil wood, Ihould grow old, ferment, and 
 rope, like oily wine before it be ufed. In order 
 to obtain from this wood a lively red, it is necef- 
 fary that the fluffs fhould have the common pre- 
 paration of falts and alum, only the alum ihould 
 predominate, as the beauty of this colour is 
 greatly impaired either by tartar alone or by four 
 waters; in a word, acids injure it by diffolving 
 the red particle. Hence it is neceffary to put 
 into the liquor from fix to eight' ounces of 
 Roman alum for every pound of wool or fluff, 
 and but two ounces of tartar, or even lefs. The 
 wool fhould boil in it for three hours ; it fhould 
 then be lightly expreffed, and kept moifl, in a 
 damp place, for the fpace of a week, that the 
 falts may be fufEciently lodged fo as to prepare 
 it for the reception of the colour. For the dying, 
 you put into a proper fized cauldron one or two 
 buckets of the juice of Brafil wood, very old, 
 in which you dye fome common fluff that had 
 been boiled in alum and tartar. This coarfe 
 fluff being dyed, you replenifh with frefh Brafil 
 juice, only half the quantity of the former, 
 boiling in it a fecond piece of common fluff pre- 
 pared in the fame manner. Thefe two fluffs 
 muft neceffarily imbibe three quarters of the 
 colours. The deco6lion being thus weakened, 
 you dip the piece of fl:uff that had been 
 kept in the preparation for eight or ten davs, 
 ilirring it well, without letting the liquor boil 
 
 R 4 XQQ 
 
248 THEARTOF 
 
 too much, till it is uniformly dyed. But, as I 
 have already faid, you mud mind to wring a 
 corner of the ftufF every now and then, in order 
 to judge of the colour j for it appears at lead 
 three Ihades darker when wet than when dry. 
 By this method, rather tedious indeed, you 
 obtain very fine lively reds, a perfe6l imitation of 
 certain colours fold by the Englifh for logwood 
 fcarlets, and which, tried by the debouilUs^ are 
 no better than thefe, were it not that they feen> 
 as if they had been (lightly maddered. The 
 red I have juft mentioned, and no where elfe 
 defcribed, will withftand the air during the 
 winter without loofing any of its (hade ; on the 
 contrary it grows darker, and feems to acquire 
 depth; but it will notrefift the tartar Ijquor. 
 
 Some of the greaf Dyers ufe l^rafil wood to 
 heighten their madder reds; either to fave the 
 root, or to give its red more vivacity than ufual. 
 This is performed by dipping a ftufF began 
 with madder in the Brafil liquor; but this 
 fraud is exprefsly prohibited by the regulations, 
 as well as all mixture of true and falfe colours. 
 The firft colour obtained from the Brafil wood 
 is never Jolid', probably becaufe it is an ill 
 digefted fap, and the colouring particles not 
 fufficiently ?ittenuated to enter the pores of the 
 wool. When the firfl , grofs particles of the 
 colour have been imbibed by the common fluff, 
 as above defcribed, thofe which remain are finer; 
 and mixing, with the yellow ligneous par- 
 ticles^ the red refulting from it is much more 
 folid. 
 
 By 
 
DYING WOOL. 24.9 
 
 By the addition of acids of any kind, the red 
 colour of this wood may be entirely deftroyed j 
 and in this cafe the fluff dyed in it takes a 
 hind colour of in proportion to the time of 
 its immcrfionj and this colour is perfeflly 
 permanent. 
 
 It is faid that the Amboife Dyers have a me- 
 thod of fixing the colour of the Brafil wood. 
 After their fluffs are lightly reddened with 
 madder and dipped in a weld liquor, con- 
 fequently twice boiled in alum and tartar, 
 they put to the Brafil juice a fufficient quantity 
 of arfenic and pot-afh, and then they fay that 
 this colour is capable of withftanding all trials. 
 I have myfelf tried this procefs, but without 
 fuccefs. 
 
 If you do not require a very bright red frora 
 the Brafil wood, I know from experience, that 
 it is poflible to fix thefe colours in fuch a manner 
 that, having this fummer expofed them to the 
 fun for thirty days, they were not altered. But 
 thefe are coffee colours and marone purples. 
 
 In order to produce thefe colours, I kept the 
 fluff for a fortnight moid with the preparation, 
 compofed as for the reds beforementioned, in a 
 yault. I filled a copper two-thirds full of well- 
 water j I then filled it up with the juice of Brafil 
 Wood, adding of Aleppo galls, very finely pow- 
 dered, about an ounce to every pound of fluff, 
 and half the quantity of gum-arabic; let it boil 
 an hour and half or two hours, according to 
 the fhade required. It was aired from time to 
 fime, and when it had imbibed the colour I 
 wiflied, I let it grow very cold before it was 
 
 wafhed 
 
250 THEARTOF 
 
 wafhed. This ftufF when brufhed, fheered, and 
 put in a cold prefs, was extreamly fine, very 
 even, and perfeftly well finifhed. 
 
 CHAP. XXXIX. 
 Of Fiijtic, 
 
 'npHE Fuftic wood gives an orange colour, 
 '*' but without folidity. It is generally ufed 
 for the inferior dye in the fame manner as the 
 root of the walnut tree, or walnut hufks without 
 boiling the fluff, fo that there is no difficulty 
 in ufmg it. To produce tobacco, cinnamon, 
 and fuch like colours, it is frequently mixed 
 with walnut hufks and weld. But this wood 
 fhouid be confidered as a very bad ingredient, 
 as its colour by being expofed for a very fhort 
 time, lofes all its brightnefs, and a great part 
 of its yellow fhade. 
 
 By dipping a fluff dyed with Fullic into a 
 blue vat, you obtain a very difagreeable olive 
 colour, which will not fland the air, and which 
 in a very little time becomes ugly. 
 
 I have already faid, that it is ufed in Langue- 
 doc for producing the lobfler colours, exported 
 for the Levant in order to fave cochineal. For 
 this purpofe they mix Fuflic, weld, and 
 cochineal, with a little cream of tarter in the 
 fame deco<ftion j the fluff boiled in this, imbibes 
 a lobfler colour, and is more or lefs red, or more 
 or lefs orange, according to the quantities of 
 the different ingredients. Though the pradlice 
 of mixing ingredients of the g&od dye with 
 
 thofi^ 
 
DYING WOOL. 251 
 
 thofe of the falje be blameable, it appears, 
 however, that in this cafe, which is tery rare, 
 and for this colour only, being frequently 
 required for the Levant trade, the ufe of Fuflic 
 maybe allowed; for having myfelf endeavoured 
 to produce the fame colour with grain ingre- 
 dients only, the colour thereby obtained had no 
 more folidity. 
 
 The alteration produced on the lobfler colour, 
 obtained from Fuftic, is very perceptible, but 
 not fo difagreeable as the changes frequently 
 produced on feveral other colours j for the entire 
 colour being faded and defaced at once, it is 
 rather a diminution than a change of colour, 
 whereas the lobfter colour obtained from yellow 
 wood becomes a cherry colour. 
 
 CHAP. XL. 
 
 Of Roucou, 
 
 THE Roucou or Raucourt, is a kind of dry 
 pafte imported from America. This fub- 
 flance yields an orange colour fomething like 
 fuftic, nor is it more folid. We muft not how- 
 ever judge of the quality of the Roucou by the 
 alum trial, which, fo far from injuring its 
 colour, makes it more bright and much finer; 
 but the air fades it in a very fhort fpace of time. 
 Soap has the fame effccb, and is indeed the pro- 
 per trial to judge from, as prefcribed by the 
 inftrudions. This fubftance is eafily fupplied, 
 for true colours, by the weld and madder 
 
 mixed 
 
252 THEARTOF 
 
 mixed together; but for dying falfe colours, 
 
 Roucou is ufed in the following naanner : 
 
 You diflblve fome pot-afh in a copper with a 
 fufficient quantity of waterj it fhould boil well 
 for an hour, that the falts may be perfectly dif- 
 folved j you afterwards add to it an equal quan- 
 tity of RoucoUj ftirring it well and letting it boil 
 for a quarter of an hour. You then dip 
 the wool or fluffs, without any other prepa- 
 ration than moiftening them in warm water 
 that they may imbibe the colour equally. They 
 remain in this liquor, conflantly ftirring them 
 till they have imbibed the fhade required, after 
 which they are well waOied and then dryed. 
 
 Roucou is frequently ufed with other ingre- 
 dients for dying falfc colours; but I can give 
 no inftrufbions concerning this mixture, as it 
 depends on the Ihade required, and is attended 
 with no difRculty, 
 
 I tried the preparation of alum and tartar 
 previous to the ftuffs being dyed in the Roucou j 
 but though they had acquired a little more foli- 
 dity, they were not fufficiently folid to be re- 
 puted true^ Roucou is in general a very 
 bad ingredient for dying wool, and not much 
 ufed, being very dear, and eafily fupplied by 
 much cheaper and more tenacious ingredients. 
 
 Wool dyed in the Roucou^ and afterwards dip- 
 ped in an indigo or woad vat, takes a red- 
 difh olive colour, which in a fhort time becomes 
 almofl entirely bluej becaufe the colour of the 
 Roucou difappears. 
 
 CHAP, 
 
DYING WOOL. 253. 
 
 CHAP. XLI. 
 
 Of French Berries, 
 
 T?RENCH Berries are very little ufed in the 
 ■*■ Arc of Dying : they produce a tolerable 
 good yellow, but which is no more folid than 
 the green which they give to wool, that had 
 previoufly received a bafis of blue. The fluff 
 fhould be firfl: boiled in alum and tartar, as for 
 weld. You then prepare a cold infufion 
 of French Berries, in which the fluff is dipped 
 and left till it has acquired the fhade you would 
 chufe. There is no difficulty in the ufe of 
 thefe Berries, and therefore I fhall fay no more 
 of them, obferving only that they fhould never 
 be ufed, but when there is an abfolutewant of 
 all other ingredients for dying yellow: they are 
 neither fcarce nor dear. 
 
 CHAP. XLH. 
 Of Turmeric, 
 
 cr'URMERIC is a root imported from the 
 -*■ Eaft-Indies j that which comes from Patna 
 is the moil efteemed. The Indian Dyers call 
 it haleli. Mr. Colbert's regulations call it con^ 
 comme. It fhould be reduced to a very fine 
 powder, and ufed much in the fame manner as 
 the french berries, but in lefs quantity, becaufe 
 it yields a great deal more colour. It is not 
 quite fo bad as the ingredients fgr yellow, men- 
 tioned 
 
45+ THEARTOF 
 
 tioned in the preceding chapter; but it is deaf, 
 
 confequently feldom ufed for dying falfe colours. 
 
 It is fometimes ufed for brightening the gold 
 colours, obtained from weld, and for orange- 
 ing the fcarlets ; but this pradice is blameable; 
 for in a very little time the colour of the 'j'ur- 
 meric fades, fo that the gold colour is left in its 
 former ftate, and the fcarlets become confiderably 
 darker. Whenever this happens, we may cer- 
 tainly conclude, that thefe colours have been 
 falfified with this ingredient. 
 
 I fiiall make no mention of real faffron, which 
 I believe is never ufed ; in the firft place, becaufe 
 it is too dear, and fecondly, becaufe its yellow 
 is even lefs permanent than either of the pre- 
 ceding. 
 
 I have nothing more to add concerning the 
 ingredients for dying falfe colours ; they fhould 
 never be ufed but for common, or low priced 
 ituffs. I do not however think it impoflible 
 to obtain folid colours from them ; but then 
 thefe colours would not be the natural colour 
 of the ingredient; as it would be necefTary to 
 fupply them with the aftridion, and gum, in 
 which they are deficient, the arrangement of 
 particles would not be the fame, confequently 
 the rays of light would be differently refiedled. 
 
 A 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS. 
 
 ^he Proof' Liquor for U^ooly and Woolen fiu^s, 
 S it has been acknowledged, that the method 
 
 prefcribed for the Proof-Liquor of the 
 dyers in the XXXVII article of the Regulation 
 
 for 
 
DYING WOOL. 25^ 
 
 for true dyers, Auguft 1669, either in cloth, 
 ferges, &c. and alfo in the articles CCXX, &c. 
 of the general inftrucflions of the i8th of March, 
 1 67 1, for dying of wool all kinds of colours and 
 for the cultivation of the drugs and ingredients 
 ufed, is not AifRcient to authorife a pofitive 
 decifion concerning the goodnefs or deception 
 of feveral colours j but that this method may 
 even fometimes lead us into an error, and give 
 rife to difputes j his Majefty has ordered various 
 experiments on worfted defigned for tapeftry, 
 in order to afcertain the goodnefs of each colour, 
 and alfo the Proof-Liquors, beft adapted to 
 them. 
 
 For this purpofe fome fine worfteds were 
 dyed all manner of colours both true -axid. falfe -y 
 and for a proper time expofed to the weather. 
 The good colours were perfectly eftablifhed, and 
 the bad ones more or lefs faded, in proportion 
 to the badnefs of their quality. No colour can 
 be reputed good, but in proportion as it with- 
 ftands the [weather : this trial ferved as a rule, 
 with refpeft to the goodnefs of different colours. 
 
 Other patterns of the fame worfled, were 
 afterwards tryed in various Proof-liquors ; it 
 immediately appeared that the fame ingredients 
 would not anfwer for all colours j becaufe it fome- 
 times happened, that a colour capable of refilling 
 the weather, was very confiderably injured by the 
 Proof-liquor, and that fome falfe colours withftood 
 the fame proof liquor. 
 
 From thefe experiments we learn the inutility 
 of lemon juice, vinegar, four water, and aqua- 
 fortis. 
 
256 THE ART OF 
 
 fortis, on account of the impoflibility of afcei*- 
 taining their degrees of acid i but the moft: 
 certain method appears to be in the ufe of fuch 
 ingredients, as with common water, conftantly 
 produce the fame efFed. 
 
 In the purfuit of this cbje6t, it has been thought 
 expedient to divide the various colours in which 
 it is poffible for wool to be dyed, into three clafles, 
 whether true or falfe, and to afcertain the ingre- 
 dients proper to be ufed in the Proof-liquors 
 of the various colours, comprehended under each 
 of thefe three clafles. 
 
 The colours comprifed in the firft clafs, lliould 
 be tryed by a folution of Roman alum, thofe 
 of the fecond, by white foap, and thofe of the 
 third, with red tartar. 
 
 It is not however fufficient, towards afcertain- 
 ing the goodnefs of a colour by the trial of 
 thefe folvents, to employ ingredients always 
 producing the fame effedt ; but it is alfo neceflary, 
 not only that the precife time of this operation 
 fliould be exadly determined, but alfo that the 
 quantity of the liquor be fixed j becaufe the 
 aftivity of the ingredients* will be confiderably 
 augmented or diminilhed in proportion to the 
 quantity of v/ater -, but the method of proceeding 
 with regard to the different proofs, is prefcribed 
 in the followino- articles. 
 
 ARTICLE THE FIRST. 
 
 THE folution of Roman alum is made in the 
 following manner. 
 
 You put into an earthen veflel a pint of water, 
 
 with half an ounce of alum. The veffel is then 
 
 T fee 
 
D Y I N G W O O L. 257 
 
 fet on the fire, and when it begins to boil fad, 
 you put in the wool for tryal letting it boil 
 during five minutes j it is then taken out and 
 well wafhed in cold water. The pattern Ihould 
 weigh one drachm, or thereabouts. 
 
 II. When you have feveral patterns of wool 
 to be tryed together, it will be necefTary to 
 double, or even to treble the quantity, both of 
 the water and alum, which will not in any refpeft^ 
 alter the ftrength or efficacy of the folution, 
 obferving always to put half an ounce of alum 
 to every pound of water. 
 
 III. To render the effcd of the folution more 
 certain, you Ihould obferve, not to boil different 
 coloured wools together. 
 
 IV. The white foap folution is made in the 
 following manner. 
 
 You put into a pint of water, only two 
 drachms of white foap flicedj having afterwards 
 put the veflel on the fire, it fliould be ftirred 
 with a (lick, to facilitate the folution of the foap : 
 when it is diffolved, and that tlie water boils 
 faft, you put in the pattern, wjjich fhould boil 
 in the fame manner for five minutes exa6lly, 
 but this fhould not be done till the water boils 
 faft. 
 
 V. When you have many patterns, you pro- 
 ceed in the fame manner as in the fecond article, 
 that is to fay, two drachms of foap to every pint 
 of water. 
 
 VI. The liquor, with red tartar, is made 
 in the fame manner as with alum, obferving 
 only that the tartar be well pounded before it is 
 
 S put 
 
258 THEARTOF 
 
 put into the water, and that it be entirely 
 diflblved before the patterns are put in. 
 
 VII. The following colours fhould be tryed 
 with the folution of Roman alum, viz. all crimfon 
 fhades, Venetian fcarlet, fire colour fcarlet, cherry 
 colour, and other fcarlet fhades, violets, and 
 griS'de-Un of all fhades, purples, lobfler colour, 
 pomgranate flower, blues, flate colours, lavender 
 greys, wine greys, and all fhades of the fame 
 kind. 
 
 VIII. If contrary to the regulations for dyers, 
 they have ufed falfe ingredients for dying fine 
 wool crimfon, the counterfeit is eafily dif- 
 covered by the alum folution, which only violets 
 a little the true crimfon, but deflroys the higheft 
 crimfon fhade, if falfe, reducing it to a pale 
 flefli colour: it almoft entirely difcharges the 
 common fhades of the falfe crimfon. Hence 
 this folution is a certain method of diftinguifhing 
 the inferior crimfon s from thofe in grain. 
 
 IX. The fcarlet of kermes, commonly called 
 Venetian fcarlet, is in no refpedl injured by this 
 folution ; it purples the fire colour, and converts 
 the inferior fhades to violet j but it almoft 
 intirely difcharges the counterfeit fcarlet of 
 brafil wood, reducing it to the colour of an 
 onion peeli it has ftill a more evident effect 
 on the fainter fhades of this counterfeit colour. 
 
 The fcarlet of flock is almoft intirely dif- 
 charged by this folution. 
 
 X. Though the violet is a compound colour, 
 formed of blue and red, it is neverthelefs of 
 fo much importance as to deferve a particular 
 enquiry* The folution of alum and tartar, has 
 
 fcarce 
 
DYING WOOL. 259 
 
 fcarce any effe(5l on this colour if true; but, 
 on the contrary, hurts it very much if counterfeit : 
 we muft however obferve that its effeft upon 
 counterfeit colours is not always the fame, 
 becaufe they fometimes get a blue ground of 
 woad or indigo. This ground being true cannot 
 be removed, the red colour only is effaced, the 
 darker fhades becoming almoft blue, and 
 the paler, the difagreeable colour of wine 
 lees. 
 
 XI. With regard to the violets, half-fint 
 prohibited by the prefent regulations, they 
 fhould be clafled with the counterfeit violetSj 
 and are no more capable of withflanding thefe 
 folvents. . 
 
 XII. We may in the fame manner eafily 
 diftinguilh the true gris-de-lin from the coun- 
 terfeit, but the difference is trifling] the true 
 iofes rather lefs than that the falfe. 
 
 XIII* True Purples are perfectly proof> 
 againfl the alum folution : on the contrary the 
 falfe purple Iofes great part of its colour. 
 
 XIV. Lobfter colours, &c. if obtained from 
 cochineal, grow rather purplifh by the proof- 
 liquor; but fade confiderably, if obtained 
 from fuftic, which is prohibited. 
 
 XV. Blues, whether of woad or indigo lofe 
 nothing by trial j but if falfe are almoft entirely 
 deftroyed. 
 
 XVI. Slate colours, lavender greys, &c. lofe 
 almoft all their colour, if falfe j but if true, ftand 
 perfeftly. 
 
 XVII. The following colours are tryed with 
 a folution of foap, viz. Orange and all yellow 
 
 S 2 fhades. 
 
26o THEARTOF 
 
 fhades, all kinds of green. Madder reds, cinna- 
 mon, tobacco, and fuch like colours. 
 
 XVIII. By this folution, we are perfe<ftly in- 
 ftru6:ed concerning the goodnefs of yellows ; 
 for it almoft entirely deftroys the colour if ob- 
 tained fronn any of the prohibited ingredients. 
 
 XIX. By this folution alfo we are thoroughly 
 jnfornned concerning the quality of greens j as 
 falfe green, is almoft intirely bereft of colour, 
 or becomes blue, if it has had a ground of indigo 
 or woad, but if true it lofes no part of its green 
 fliade. 
 
 XX. The reds of madder are only the brighter 
 for the foap folution, unlefs brafil wood be mixed 
 with the madder, and then they lofe colour, in 
 proportion to the quantity of the brafil. 
 
 XXL Cinnamon colour, &c, are fcarce altered 
 by this folution, if true -, but if obtained from 
 fuftic, roucou, or flock, are much difcharged. 
 
 XXII. The folution of alum can be of no ufe, 
 and may caufe many miftakes, with regard to 
 colours of the fecond clafs ; for It neither hurts 
 t\\tfujtic nor roucoUy which are neverthelefs faded 
 by the air ; and difcharges a great part of the 
 favory and Dyer's-wood, which notwithftanding, 
 produce very good yellows and greens. 
 
 XXIII. The numerours fhades of fawn or 
 root colours, which comprehend all thofe not 
 derived from the five primitive colours, are 
 tryed with a folution of red tartar. Thefe colours 
 are produced from the walnut huflc, root, and 
 bark, fumach^Jantali and foot. 
 
 XXIV. The ingredients enumerated in the 
 preceding article are genuine, except fantal and 
 
 foot 
 
D Y I N G W O O L. 26r 
 
 loot, which, when the quantity is over much, 
 hardens the wool : hence, all that can be learnc 
 from the folution, concerning thefe colours, 
 is whether they are overloaded with fantal or 
 foot, in which cafe they lofe confiderably by the 
 folution of tartar 3 but if obtained from the 
 other ingredients, or with a moderate quantity 
 of the two laft, they withftannd trial much 
 better. 
 
 XXV. Black being the only colour that cannot 
 be comprifed in either of the three clafles above 
 mentioned, becaufe it requires a much more adlive 
 folution in order to difcover whether the wool has 
 had a bafis of turkey blue, conformable to the 
 regulations, the folution is made in the following 
 manner. 
 
 An ounce of Roman alum powdered, and the 
 fame quantity of red tartar, is put into a pint of 
 water and boiled ; let it boil for a quarter of an 
 hour : you then put in the pattern, and you wafh 
 it afterwards in frefli water : you will then 
 eafily difcover whether it has had a proper bafis 
 of blue : in which cafe, the wool will remain blue, 
 almoft black •, but if not, it will become very 
 grey. 
 
 XXVI. As it is fometimes the cuftom to 
 brown fome colours with nutgalls and copperas 
 and as this operation may have a peculiar effeft 
 in the trial, you will obferve, that though after 
 the trial, the liquor may appear loaded with 
 colour, the wool, if it has preferved its bafis, 
 is neverthelefs well dyed^ but if on the con- 
 trary, it has loft its ground colour, it may be 
 declared falfe, 
 
 S 3 xxvir, 
 
t62 THEARTOF 
 
 XXVII. Though the browning liquor made 
 with nutgalls and copperas be allowed, yet as 
 it hardens the wool, it were better, to give the 
 preference as much as poffible to an indigo, or 
 woad vat. 
 
 XXVIII. Common greys, produced with galls 
 and copperas, require no trial, becaufe thefe 
 colours are genuine, as they cannot be obtained 
 otherways ; but it is necelTary that they fhould 
 be firft galled, and afterwards dipped in a folu- 
 tion of copperas, but lefs hot than that of galls, 
 becaufe by this means, they are much more 
 beautiful and fixed. 
 
 END OF PART L 
 
PART 11. 
 
 THE 
 
 ART OF DYING 
 
 SILK. 
 
 TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH OFM.MACQUER, 
 
THE 
 ART OF DYING SILK. 
 
 SILK, as it is taken from the pods, is gummed 
 by a kind of natural varnifh, which makes it 
 fliff and hard. It is alfo, at lead in this country, of 
 an orange colour, generally very dark. This 
 fliffnefs is improper in the fabrication of moll 
 filk fluff, and its natural fhade unfavourable to 
 almofl all other colours. 
 
 The firfl operation, therefore, in the Art of 
 Dying Silk is, to deprive it both of its natural 
 colour and varnifhi but this, as it is eafy to con- 
 ceive, can only be accomplifhed by means of 
 a diffolvent fufBciently powerful. Artills for- 
 merly employed in this procefs, had certainly 
 no great choice of folventsj the fubilance of 
 this varnifh is of a fingular nature, and can 
 only be encountered by one fpecies of folvents. 
 
 This fubflance abfolutely refifls water j fpi- 
 rituous menjlruay particularly fpirit of wine, 
 fo far from deflroying the colour, on the con- 
 tfary fix it more firmly. Acids, when fuffi- 
 ciently diluted to prevent them from deflroying 
 the Silk itfelf, aft but very imperfecflly : in fhorc 
 it is evident that nothing but an alkaline fait will 
 difTolve this gluten effedually, when fufficiently 
 diluted and foftened fo as not to injure the 
 Silk. 
 
 The.various properties of this fubflance demon - 
 4 ftrate 
 
266 THEARTOF 
 
 ftrate that it is neither gum, nor properly refin, 
 nor even gum-refin, and that it efTentially differs 
 from thefe fubftances. All gums diffolve in 
 water, refins in Ipirit of wine, and gum-refins 
 in a mixture of both. It is therefore probable 
 one of thefe concrete oily fubftances, differs 
 from refins in its oily particles not being of 
 the ejfential kind ; but rather of that fwect kind, 
 ■which having nothing volatile, cannot be affefted 
 by fpirit of wine: It is alfo probable that this 
 gluten may confift both of an oily and gummy 
 fubftance, but fo proportioned and combined as 
 mutually to refift their proper diflblvents. 
 
 Be this as it may, you can only fucceed in 
 depriving Silk of its natural varnifh, by means 
 of an alkaline fait, and this deprivation is called 
 dreffing. But whether they have not yet thought 
 of employing for this purpofe pure alkalies 
 only, or whether they have found it rather in- 
 convenient, in this country they are all evi- 
 dently agreed in the ufe of alkalies foftened by 
 oil, that is to fay, foap. 
 
 This ungumming of the Silk, or boiling 
 as it is called, is generally done by hot water im- 
 pregnated with foap; but the particulars of this 
 operation and the quantity of foap, vary, as we 
 Ihall prefently obferve, according to the purpofe 
 for which the filk is intended. 
 
 Silks intended for the greater degree of 
 white, fuch, for example, as are meant to re- 
 main white, or for the fabrication of white 
 fluffs, are boiled twice over ; but all that are 
 afterwards to be dyed of a different colour, 
 fhould boil but once, and with a fmaller quan- 
 tity 
 
D Y I N G S I L K. 267 
 
 tityof foap, becaiife the little remaining rednefs 
 is by no means prejudicial to many colours. Dif- 
 ferent quantities of foap are neverthelefsneceflary, 
 according to the colour for which the filk is 
 defignedi but I fliall fpeak more particularly 
 concerning thefe quantities when I come to the 
 article of dying. I fhall now mention the method 
 of boiling fuch filks as are meant for the greateft 
 degree of whitenefs, which, as I faid before, 
 fhould be twice boiled. 
 
 Ungumming and boiling for White, 
 
 ' I ''HE firfl boiling for filk intended for 
 
 ■*' White, is called Ungumming; becaufe 
 
 the end propofed in this operation, is in effe6t 
 
 to deprive the filk of a large portion of its gum. 
 
 To accomplilli this Ungumming, the fiik is 
 firft divided into hanks, that is to fay, by tying 
 a thread round each hank, confiding of feveral 
 fkeins. Thefe hanks are afterwards untied, and 
 feveral of them joined together making a hand- 
 ful, varying in fize according to the different 
 manufadlories. At Lyons this handful is called 
 a matteau-y at Tours, a Parceau-y and at Paris, a 
 Bouin-y and it has ftill a greater variety of names 
 in different places. 
 
 This precaution with regard to the filk, is 
 very necelTary, as it facilitates the drefTing, 
 makes the working of it lefs difficult, and pre- 
 vents it from mixing and tangling. 
 
 After this operation, a fufficient quantity 
 of river water is put into an oval copper, as in 
 Plate I. fig. 1. or any other water proper for 
 
 difTolvino; 
 
268 THEARTOF 
 
 diflblving the ibap. About thirty pounds to 
 one hundred weight of filk. The foap is cut 
 into fmall bits that it may diflblve more readily. 
 
 When the foap is diffolved by boiling, the 
 copper is filled with frefh water, and the door 
 of the furnace fhut, only leaving fire fufficient to 
 keep the liquor very hot, but not boiling, for 
 the boiling would open and fuz the filk, parti- 
 cularly fine filk. 
 
 Whilft preparing the liquor, the filk is pafTed 
 on to the rods, and when in a proper ftate, is put 
 into the liquor, where it remains till the part 
 dipped is deprived of its gluten, which is 
 foon perceived by its whitenefs and flexibility. 
 It is then turned round on the rods, that the 
 part above the liquor may undergo the fame 
 operation, and as the folution is accomplilhed 
 the fiiks are taken out of the liquor; the hanks 
 that were firft turned being always the fooneft 
 done. 
 
 The filk this ungummed is put on the pegs to 
 drain it of the foap, and then dreffedj that is 
 to fay, worked on the pegs and in the hands 
 that it may be opened and difentangled. 
 
 A cord is then pafTed through the hanks in 
 order to confine it during the boiling; and this 
 is called cording. 
 
 Nine or ten hanks are put on each cord, as in 
 A. Plate III. fig. 8. It is then put into a bag or 
 pocket made of coarfe ftrong linen. Thefe 
 pockets are fourteen or fifteen inches wide, 
 and four or five feet long, clofed at each end. 
 They are open at the fide the whole length of 
 the pocket, and when the filk is put in, the 
 
 pockei; 
 
DYING SILK. 269 
 
 pocket is fewed all along down the fide with 
 packthread, and faftened with a knot. 
 
 Five-and-twenty or thirty pounds of filk is put 
 into each pocket : this operation is called 
 pocketing, as in F. Plate II. fig. i. 
 
 This done, another liquor is prepared like 
 the firil:, viz. the fame quantity of foap for a 
 hundred weight of filk. When the foap is well 
 difiblved, and the boiling checked with cold 
 water, the pockets are put into the liquor and 
 boiled hard for about a quarter of an hour, 
 checking with cold water whenever it feems ready 
 to boil over. During this boiling it is necefliary 
 to harr often, that is by means of a bar or pole, 
 as in C. Plate II. fig. 1. to move the bags one 
 over the other, fo as that the undermoft be 
 brought to the top of the liquor to prevent 
 them from fl:icking to the bottom of the boiler. 
 This motion is alfo requifite to make them boil 
 equally and even more readily. 
 
 The preceding operation is called boiling; is 
 ufed for filks intended to remain white, and is 
 done in a round boiler, B. Plate I. fig. i. 
 
 For hoiling offilks intended to he dyed, 
 
 TN the boiling of filk for common colours, 
 •^ twenty pounds of foap is required for every 
 hundred pound of raw filk, and the boiling is 
 then the fame as in the preceding operation ; 
 with this difi^erence only, that as the filk is not 
 ungummed it fhould boil for three hours and a 
 half, preferving a fufficient quantity of liquor 
 
 by 
 
273 THE ART OF 
 
 by carefully filling it every now and then with 
 water. 
 
 Silk defigned for blue, iron-grey, brimftone, 
 or any other colour requiring a very white 
 ground, and to be as beautiful as poffible^ 
 muft have thirty pounds of foap to every hun- 
 dred of filk, becaufe they fhould be quite as 
 clear as if they were to remain white. 
 
 When the filks are boiled they are caft down j 
 that is, the pockets taken out of the boiler. 
 For this operation there muft be a rod or perch 
 fmaller than that already mentioned. This 
 fmall perch is flipped under the pocket, refting 
 it on the edge of the boilei*, by which means the 
 bag is raifed up. 
 
 A perch or rod, long enough to reach from 
 fide to fide of the boiler, is then pafTed under, 
 and rolling round the bag fucceflively, paffing 
 it from one perch to the other till entirely out 
 of the liquor, when it is immediately thrown on 
 the ground. It is very neceflary that the place 
 •where the pockets are thrown jfhould be perfectly 
 clean, or even covered with linen or planks, to 
 prevent any dirt from penetrating the bags and 
 making fpots; or it were ftill better to throw it 
 on a halliard or harrow. See D. Plate II. fig. 2, 
 and the operation A in the fame plate, fig. i. 
 
 When put on the barrow, the pockets are iin- 
 fewed by untying the knot and drawing out the 
 packthread. The filk is then taken out and ex- 
 amined, and if not fufficienrly boiled, or double 
 boiled, as the Dyers improperly call it, which is 
 eafily feen by the yellow or lemon colour fpots 
 xlill remaining, it is returned into the copper, 
 
 where 
 
DYING SILK. ^yt 
 
 where it Is again boiled for fonae time till it is 
 evidently well done. It is then taken out and. 
 the pockets thrown down as at firft. 
 
 After unpocketing, the whole is drefled ori 
 the pegs, as may be Ccen in B. Plate I. fio-. x. 
 in order to difpofe the filk for taking the colour 
 intended. 
 
 Ohfervatlons on ungiimming and hoilim, 
 
 "pOR the boiling of filk, it is necefTary to ufc 
 J- the beft Marfeilles white foap, foap of an 
 inferior quality not being equally cffedual; be- 
 fides, in ufing fuch foap there is nothing faved, 
 as a greater quantity is required. There is a 
 kind of foap which, coagulating with the natu- 
 ral varnifii of the filk, forms a fubftance like 
 wax. 
 
 •^atfoaps arefometimes iifed for boiling of the 
 filk; but it is evident that filk boiled with this 
 foap is never fo dry nor fo lively as it ought 
 to be J befides it reddens in courfe of time. 
 
 Silk ufually lofes a quarter of its weight ia 
 boiling: fome even two or three per cent more. 
 
 The foap liquor ufed in the boiling of filk 
 very foon putrifies and gets a bad fmell; it is 
 then good for nothing. If the filk is heaped 
 when warm out of the foap, for any time without 
 being wafiied and cleanfed, it heats, gets a bad 
 fmcll, and 'even produces little white worms. 
 Thefe worms however do not eat the filk, only 
 the mixture of x\\^ foap and gluten. This filk 
 is liable to be hard. 
 
 Silk 
 
272 THEARTOF 
 
 Silk that has not been boiled, or raw filk, is 
 is always hard and ftiff; hence the abfolute ne- 
 cefTity of boiling, not only to deprive it of 
 thofe bad qualities, but to difcharge the yellow 
 colour natural to moft kinds of filk. Pure water 
 Ihould be ufed for this purpofe capable of dif- 
 folving the foap. 
 
 When river water is muddy it fnould be left 
 to fubfide for fome time, and then put into a 
 boiler and purified in the following manner : 
 
 When it is made hot, without boiling, about a 
 pound of foap to thirty buckets of water is thrown 
 into it. This foap raifes all the impurities to 
 the top of the water like fcum, and this being 
 taken off with a fl<.immer the water is fit for ufe. 
 
 Thefe are the methods that have been hitherto 
 Tjfed in all the manufactories of Europe for 
 boiling and preparing filk. They may however 
 be changed, at leaft in fome particulars, as the 
 principal merchants and manufacturers of filk 
 fluffs, have for fome time paft remarked, that 
 the fluffs of this country, which are prepared 
 with foap, have feveral and fingular defe6ls> and 
 lefs luflre than the filks of China, which are^ 
 they fay, prepared without foap. Thefe confi- 
 derations induced the Academy at Lyons to 
 propofe, as a fubjeCl for the year 176 1, a method 
 of preparing filk without foap, and the premium 
 has been lately decreed to M. Rigaut, of St. Quin- 
 tin, already known for feveral chymical enquiries 
 very ufeful both for the improvement of the 
 arls and with refpeft to commerce. 
 
 This philofopher, prepoffeffed, by an edi6l of 
 the academy, that the oil in the foap produced 
 
 the 
 
DYING SILK. 273 
 
 the bad qualities fo much complained of, pro- 
 {Dofed as a fubftitute for foap, a folution of 
 /o^a in a proper quantity of water, fo as 
 not to impair or weaken the filk, which 
 doubtlefs anfwered the expeftations of the 
 Academy. 
 
 Of White, 
 
 CILK when deprived of its gum, and ix)iied 
 as we have faid, acquires by thefe operations 
 the greateft poflible degree of whitenefsj but 
 as there are different fhades of White, fome 
 with a yellow call, fome blue, and others red- 
 dilh, the Dyers are obliged when they would 
 obtain any particular White, to add fome ingre- 
 dient, either in the foftening, the boiling, or 
 by a third liquor flightly impregnated with 
 foap, called the whitener. I fhall now defcribe 
 the method of giving filk the principal fhades 
 of White. 
 
 Whites are diffinguifhed by five Ihades, or 
 rather five principal fhades, viz. ChinaWhite, In- 
 dia White, Thread or Milk White, Silver and 
 Azure White. All thefe Whites, though differ- 
 ing from each other by very flight fliades, are 
 neverthelefs apparent, efpecially when compared 
 with each other. 
 
 The three firfi: Whites are prepared and boiled 
 as I have already fhown. 
 
 The Silver and Azure White require azure 
 in the preparation or ungumming of the filk, 
 which is done in the following manner: 
 
 Take fine indigo, walli it two or three times 
 
 in clean water moderately v/arm, pound it afcer- 
 
 T • v.'ards 
 
17+ THEARTOF 
 
 wards in a mortar and pour fome boiling watef 
 on it. It fhould then ftand till all the grofs 
 particles of the indigo fall to the bottom; the 
 clear only fliould be ufed, ^vhich is called azuring. 
 
 This azure is put into the foap liquor for un- 
 gumming of the filk. 
 
 The quantity of the azure is not fpecifiedj 
 becaufe if the filk appears deficient more may be 
 added to the whitening. 
 
 For Silver and Azure White, the boiling 
 Ihould be azured according to the eye, as for 
 ungumminac. 
 
 When boiled, the filk is taken out of the cop- 
 per by barrings that is, by means of a fmall bar, 
 as already explained ; but inftead of throwing 
 the pockets on the ground they are put in a 
 harquey or trough full of clean water. The 
 pockets are opened in the water and then taken 
 out, but the filk remains. Jt is then fpread 
 and opened in the water: it is afterwards 
 wafhed and laid on the barrow, which is placed 
 acrofs the trough and through which the filk is 
 drained. 
 
 The firfl foap and water is again put into the 
 copper in which the whitening was boiled, and 
 which ferves for another boiling. 
 
 The trough is again filled with clean water, 
 in which the white fhades are waflied and rincedj 
 they are then drained, and afterwards dreflied. 
 The filks are then made into hanks proper to be 
 wrung, and at the fame time the whitener is pre- 
 pared in the following manaer; 
 
 JVhUeninz* 
 
DYING SILK. 275 
 
 fVlntening. 
 
 TO make this, the copper muft be filled with 
 with clean water, and a pound or a pound 
 and a halfof foap added to thirty buckets of water. 
 When it boils and the foap is diflblved, it fhould 
 be well ftruck with a ftaff, to fee if the Whiten- 
 ing be more than fufficiently ftrong, or not 
 ftrong enough : either of thefe inconveniences 
 Ihould be equally avoided, for if it be too poor the 
 filk will not be uniform, and if too ftrong it will 
 not take the azure properly, but will be fpotted 
 blue in feveral parts. The Whitening is good 
 if, when ftriking it with a ftick, the froth it 
 produces is neither ftrong nor weak. The filk 
 is then put on the rods and dipped as follows : 
 
 For China White, examine the liquor, adding 
 for a reddifti tinge, a little rocou, and proceed 
 as follows : The hanks being all ranged on the 
 fods lliould be plunged into the liquor, and thefe 
 rods reaching from fide to fide of the vefiTel, 
 are fo placed that the hanks hang perpendicular, 
 falling into the liquor, except the upper part, 
 which being on the rods and the vefiTel not being 
 quite full remain out. The rods are afterwards 
 taken out one after another, turning the filk 
 upfide down that every part may be equally dip- 
 ped, at the fame time pufliing the rods to the 
 extremity of the vefi^el. This operation is re- 
 peated till the filk is fufficiently and uniformly 
 tinged, and is called returning. At firft it fhould 
 be repeated without intermiffion, and till the 
 Ihade is uniform; but at laft when the liquor 
 T 1 becomes 
 
2^^ THE ART OF 
 
 becomes weaker, the dipping fhould be Icfs 
 frequent. See this operation in C. Plate II, 
 fig. I. 
 
 For Indian White the procefs is the fanse, 
 only adding a little azure for the blue call, not 
 to fpoil the Whitening which is intended for 
 other whites. 
 
 For Thread White and others, a little azure is 
 added in proportion to the fliade required. 
 
 The liquor Ihould be very hot, but not boiling, 
 during the operation, and the returning con- 
 tinue till the fiik has tak^n the fhadc equally, 
 which it generally does in about four or five 
 returns. The filk as it becomes even and finiihed 
 is wrung, and afterwards fpread on the poles 
 to dry, and then, if neceflary, fulphured, which 
 is done in the following manner : 
 
 Sulphuring, 
 
 WHITE filk intended for any kind of ma- 
 nufaclures, except fuch as are to be 
 watered, lliould be fulphured ; the acid of ful- 
 phur giving the greatefl poflible degree of white- 
 nefs. It is done as follows : 
 
 The hanks fliould be fpread on perches feveR 
 or eight feet from the ground, chufing for tiiis 
 purpofe a high room without a chimney, or an 
 elevated barn, where, in cafe of necefllty, you 
 may procure accefs of air by throwing open 
 doors and windows. 
 
 A pound and a half, or two pounds of Sulphur 
 in rolls, will fulphur a hundred pounds of filk. 
 This brimftone Ihould beput into an earthen or iron 
 
 with 
 
DYING SILK. ^77 
 
 pot with a fevvafiies at the bottom j when grofsly 
 pounded it is put on tlie alhes j you then light 
 one of the bits with a candle, which will fee 
 fire to the reft. 
 
 The chamber fliould be clofe (hut, and the, 
 chimney carefully (lopped to prevent the vapour 
 from diflipating. The fulphur (liould bura 
 under the lilk during the night. 
 
 The next morning the windows (hould be 
 Opened to let out the fmoke and admit the air, 
 which in fummcr is fufficient to dry the (ilk. 
 
 But in winter as foon as the fmoke is difTipated, 
 the windows (liould be again (hut, and tire put 
 into the cha(!ing diflies to dry the filk. It is 
 of great confequence that the place for fulphur*- 
 ing (hould be fo fituated that the windows and 
 doors (hould open at the outfide, and remain 
 open till there is a free circulation of air, as 
 without fuch precaution there would be foms 
 danger of fu(focation. 
 
 When the fulphur is confumed it leaves a 
 black cruft. This cruft being extreamely com- 
 buftible ferves afterwards to light the fulphur, 
 as it takes fire even more readily than the fulphur 
 itfelf before it is burnt. 
 
 If, in drefTing, the filk (ticks together, it is not 
 yet fu(hciently dry. 
 
 Obfervations on Whitening and Sulphuring, 
 
 ' I ^HE fulphurious or vitriolic acid which flies, 
 off in great quantity during the (low com- 
 buftion of the fulphur, having the property of 
 eating and deftroying th<.* generality of colours, 
 acls upon rhc f;ik in fuch a manner as to make 
 
iyS THE ART OF 
 
 the whites perfe6tly clear and tranfparent. It 
 deftroys the remaining yellownefs, which mixing 
 with the azure would give it a greenifli caft. 
 It likewife give the filk more firmnefs, and even 
 that ruitling called by the French m, or manie- 
 ment. This is very perceptible, when by rolling 
 the threads of a fkein upon each other and prefT- 
 ing them hard with the finger, a kind of vibra^ 
 tion or ruflling is communicated to the hand, 
 and may be even heard by putting the ear clofe 
 and being attentive. 
 
 As this ruflling proceeds from the hardnefs or 
 ftiffnefs of the filk, it is not the cuftom to fulr- 
 phur fuch as are intended for goods that are to 
 be watered i becaufe when fulphured they do 
 not take the impreffion fufficiently, as it prevents 
 the threads from rolling freely over each other 
 fo as to take a good water. 
 
 To avoid the inconvenience refulting from 
 this hardnefs, it is the cuftom in fome manufacr 
 tories to take out the fulphuring, which is done 
 by dipping them fevcral times in hot water on 
 the rods as for dying. This operation renders 
 the filk fofter and deftroys the ruftling, but 
 then it is always lefs proper for being watered 
 than if it had never been fulphured. If the 
 filk that has been fulphured is to be dyed, it 
 fhould be unfulphiired, there being fcveral 
 colours that will not take well without this 
 precaution. 
 
 If when the filk is fulphured it is apparently 
 not fufficiently azured for the fhade to which it 
 properly belongs, it muft be again azured with 
 clean water only without any foapj but it is 
 
 neceflary 
 
D Y I N G S^ I L K. 279 
 
 nccefifary to obferve, that if for tliis purpole 
 tJie hard well water be ufed, it will make the 
 azure much more blue tlian fofc water, which 
 on the contrary gives a reddiHi tinge. 
 
 Silk thus azured fhould be a fccond time ful- 
 phured : the firft fulphuring however is not en- 
 tirely ufclefs, as the acid of the fulphur f\icilitates 
 the azuring with water only, but would not have 
 the fame efFeft with Ibap. 
 
 With regard to the boiling, in want of azure, 
 you may add a little of the indigo vat prepared 
 for dying blue, as we fhall hereafter mention, 
 called by the Dyers the blue of the 'vat. It will 
 have the fame cfFech provided it be taken from 
 a vat in full ftrength. In cafe of necefTity this 
 blue may be ufed for azuring with water. It is 
 however liable to give a (hade lefs beautiful; 
 bccaufe a fmall quantity of this preparation 
 mixed with much water, lofes its quality and 
 becomes grey. 
 
 Some (luffs are always fabricated with raw filk, 
 containing all their natural gum and ftiffnefs, 
 requiring in themfelves to be firm and gummed, 
 fuch as filk laces, known in trade by the name 
 of blonds, gauzes, and the like. Silk intended 
 for this manufa6lure fhould neither be ungum- 
 med nor boiled ; it is therefore to be obferved, that 
 in giving them the various preparations neccf- 
 fary for dying, thefe preliminary operations are 
 to be omitted. For this reafon, it is alfo necef- 
 fiiry that at the end of every procefs you fhould 
 be particularly attentive in marking the befb 
 methods for making raw filk take the various 
 T 4 colours. 
 
28o ' THE ART OF 
 
 colours. I lliall now fpcak concerning the raw 
 ^nd white filk ufed in the fpecies of manufac- 
 tory abovenfientioned. 
 
 Thofe naturally the whiteft are the beft^ they 
 ihould be dipped in warm water and wrung; 
 then fulphured; afterwards azured, again wrung, 
 and a fecond time fulphured: this at leaft is 
 the common practice. Experience however 
 fhews, that it may anfwer juft as well to foak it 
 in the foap liquor, as for whitening, and only hot 
 enough to bear it to the hand. In this liquor 
 the filk is returned, adding azure if neceflary. 
 When fufficiently done it fhould be well walhed 
 at the river, which reftores the firmnefs it had 
 loft in the foap water. It is then wrung an4 
 fulphured. 
 
 Itmuft be obferved, that this method of whiten- 
 ing raw filk is ufed for thofe of an inferior qua- 
 lity; the fine filk of Nankeen, which is of ^ 
 nature extreamly white, requiring nO fuch 
 operation. 
 
 Of Aluming. 
 
 ALU MING Ihould be coiifidered as onq 
 of the moft general operations. in the arc 
 of dying. It a£ls as an adringent, without 
 which the greateft part of the colours would 
 never adhere, or at leaft would have neither 
 beauty nor folidity. This fait unites two admi- 
 rable properties, and of the greateft importance 
 in the art of dying; that of augmenting the 
 brightnefs of an infinity of colours, and at 
 the fame time of fixing them in the moft folid 
 and durable manner. 
 
 I Alum 
 
DYING SILK. »8i 
 
 Alum is always uied in dying of vvooJ, cotton 
 thread and filk ; but the manner of application 
 is different : the following is the method for fiik, 
 which is the obje<5t of this treatife. 
 
 Forty or fifty pounds of Roman alum being 
 difiblved in a copper, with a fufficient quantity 
 of hot water, is put into a large tub or ton, con- 
 taining forty or fifty buckets of water, fee B.. 
 Plate IV. When pouring the folution into the 
 yefiel, ftir and mix it well, lead the cold water 
 Ihould cryftalize and coagulate the alum, in 
 which cafe the filk would be fpotted in various 
 places with fmall cryftal fpots, called by the 
 dyers frofling. Whenever this happens, by 
 dipping in warm, water the cryftals are imme- 
 diately difiblved, and the water may be added to 
 the alum tub. 
 
 Having wafhed the filk, it is beetled, and the 
 better to clear it from any remaining foap, drain ic 
 on the pegs and tie it in hanks as for boiling; 
 The hanks are then dipped in the alum liquor 
 one nf:er another, taking care to prevent them 
 from tangling and twilVing together. Theyfliould 
 be loofely tied, that every thread may be equally 
 dipped. In this fituation it fiiould remain eight 
 or nine hours, generally from night to morning. 
 After this it is taken out, and when wrung with 
 the hand over the tub, carried to the river and 
 rinced, which is called cooling; then beetled as 
 long as it is necefi!ary. But of this in its proper 
 place. 
 
 In fome manufadtories, inftead of tieing the 
 filk for the aluming, it is pafl^ed on the rods, 
 ;hree or four hanks upon each rod, giving them 
 
 three 
 
282 THEARTOF 
 
 three or four fhifts or returns. They arc then 
 intirely dipped plunging every rod by the 
 end that is loaded with the filk, the other end 
 fupported on the edge of the trough. The 
 Dyers call this putting in Joude or foak, meaning 
 in general by this exprefTion, the fubmerfion of 
 the filk into any liquor whatfoever, where they 
 are fufFered to remain for any time. 
 
 To prevent the filk from flipping off the rods 
 and mixing together, care fliould be taken to 
 have a perch juft the length of the trough, upon 
 the edge of which the ends of the rods are fup- 
 ported in fuch a manner as to hinder the filk from 
 flipping oT. A cord tiedto the end of the firft and. 
 laft rod, going under the ends of every other, will 
 anfwer the fame purpofe as the perch. 
 
 When the alum liquor is prepared as above 
 defcribed, a hundred and fifty pounds of filk may 
 be dipped without any necelTity of adding frefh 
 alum, or according to the terms of the art, re- 
 frelhing. 
 
 "When the liquor apparently begins to weaken, 
 which is foon learnt from pradice, being lefs 
 Iharp to the tafl:e, twenty or five and twenty 
 poundsof alum diflblved asbefore, fliould be added 
 to the liquor, with the fame precaution as above, 
 thus continually replenifliing according to necefllty 
 and till the liquor begins to have a bad fmell, 
 which is always the cafe fooner or later in pro- 
 portion to the quantity of filk that has been 
 dipped. 
 
 When the liquor begins to be offenfive, you 
 finifh, by dipping thofe filk s intended for ordi- 
 nary 
 
D Y I N G S I L K. 28j 
 
 nary colours, fuch as browns, marones, &c. and 
 afterwards thrown away. The trough is then 
 rinced and prepared for a frefli liquor. 
 
 Remarks on Alumijig. 
 
 VTZHEN a trough of alumng has been ufed 
 ' ^ for fome time, it forms all round on the 
 fide an incruftation, frequently as thick as a crown 
 piece, not fo much on the bottom as at the fides, 
 becaufe the filk often touches the bottom of the 
 trough, and by fweeping it in a manner pre- 
 vents the formation of this cruft. 
 
 The Dyers leave this incruftation, having 
 remarked that fo far from producing any bad 
 effect it helps to retain the liquor, and prevents 
 the vefiel from leaking. This cruft is occafioned 
 by the filk being commonly put into this liquor, 
 without being entirely deprived of the foap, which 
 mixing with the alum, they mutually decompofc 
 each other : the acid of the alum, and the alkali 
 of the foap^ form a vitriolated tartar; at the 
 fime time the earth of the alum with the oil of 
 the foap, forms a thick fubftance, and thefc 
 together produce this incruftation. 
 
 It is alfo very evident that to this portion of 
 foap j];enerally remaining in the filk when put 
 into the aluming, may be attributed the bad 
 fmell of the liquor when ufed for any time. 
 
 The filk fliould always be alumed cold, be- 
 caufe it has been found that if the aluming be 
 warm the filk is apt to lofe a great part of its 
 luftre. 
 
 We know by experience that it is always more 
 advantageous to make tiiis liquor rather ftrong, 
 
 thai^ 
 
2^4 THEARTOF 
 
 than weak, as the fiik with more certainty takes 
 
 thecolouri whereas, if too weak, it not only takes 
 
 the colour with more difficulty, but is likewife 
 
 uneven. 
 
 Of Blue. 
 
 Q\\X. is dyed Blue with indigo, like all other 
 •^ fubftances capable of being dyedj this drug 
 however is of a very particular nature, for the 
 colouring fubftance being refinous, it imparts no 
 colour to the water, in which it will not diflblve. 
 It- muft therefore be diflblved by fome falinc 
 fubftance, by a kind of fermentation. But as 
 this fpecies of dying requires a particular opera- 
 tion, and veflcls of a fingular nature and con- 
 venient ftrudlure, called Vats -y I will endeavour 
 to defcribe them, as alfo the method of preparing 
 the indigo, particularly for Dying Silk. 
 
 Thefe vefTels are generally made of copper, 
 in the form of a truncated cone, or like an 
 inverted fugar-loaf. Plate IV, fig. i. and 2. The 
 under part or bottom C. about a foot in diameter, 
 and the upper part about two feet. It is four 
 and a half or five feet in height. The bottom 
 fixed in the ground, about a foot and a half 
 ^eep as in D. fig. i. It is furrounded with a 
 paved hearth, E. fig. 2. and inclofed with 
 mafonry, F. fig. i and- 2 perpendicular, not 
 joining to the vat, but in fuch a manner as to 
 leave a fpace round the veflTel, G. fig. 2. larger 
 at the bottom than at the top. It joins however 
 at the top, forming a kind of flat border, H. fig. i. 
 of about fix or eight inches. 
 
 It 
 
D Y I N G S I L K. 285 
 
 It is cuftomary to have two openings 
 in this mafonry, one upon a level with the 
 ground, I. fig. i. about a foot in length, and CiK 
 or feven inches broad, where the fire is put in. 
 
 The fecond opening is formed by a funnel of 
 frceftone or plafter, a kind of chinaney, L. fig. 
 I and 2. for the purpofe of fupporting the fire 
 by a current of air. This funnel fhould rife 
 about eighteen tinches above the vat, to prevent 
 the workmen round it from being incommoded 
 with the fmoak or vapour. So far with regard 
 to the conItru(5lion of the vefTel; I Iball now 
 fpeak of the indigo preparation. 
 
 To begin with the Brevet or compofition, as 
 it is called: it is made in the following manner. 
 
 To eight pounds of die finefl indigo, add fix 
 pounds of the bell pearl-afh, from three to four 
 ounces of madder for every pound of alhes, 
 befides eight pounds of bran, waflied in feveral 
 waters to take out the flower. When walhed 
 and moft of the water fqueezed out, it is put 
 alone at the bottom of the vat. 
 
 The pearl-afli and the madder are then 
 mixed, brufing them them roughly together, 
 and then boiling them for a quarter of an hour 
 in a copper containing two thirds of the vat, the 
 liquor is then fuffered to reft, and the door of 
 the furnace fhut. 
 
 Two or three days previous to this, eight 
 pounds of indigo are fteeped in a bucket of warm 
 water, wafhing it well, and even changing the 
 water which has a reddilh caft. Some dyers 
 begin by boiling the indigo in a ley confifting of 
 one pound of pearl-afh and two buckets of 
 
 water 
 
286 THE ART OF 
 
 water. They afterwards pound it in a rnoftar 
 quite wet, and when it is pafty, fill the mortar 
 with the liquor before boiled and ftill hot, 
 bruifing it for fome time, letting it ftand 
 a few moments, and then pouring off the clear 
 into a feparate boiler or into the vat. The fame 
 quantity of the mixture is then poured on the 
 indigo which remained in the mortar, bruifing 
 and mixing it well, and then as before pouring 
 off the clear into the boiler; and this is repeated 
 till the whole of the indigo is thus diffolved in 
 the liquor. 
 
 The liquor in the boiler is gradually poured 
 into the vat on the bran at the bottom, adding 
 afterwards the remainder of the compofition 
 grounds and all. After ftirring and raking for 
 fome time, it is let ftand, but without fire, till 
 it becomes cool enough to bear the hand in it, 
 when a little fire is put round the vat, only to 
 preferve the fame degree of heat j this fhould be 
 continued till the liquor begins to turn green, 
 which is eafily knnown by trying it with a little 
 white filk. 
 
 The vat in this ftate indicates that fhe is 
 coming to j that is to fay, that the operation goes 
 on well ; but for better information and in order 
 to bring it forward, it fhould be flruck with the 
 rake, and then fuffered to ftand, till the brown 
 and coppery fkim that rifes on the furface fhews 
 that the vat is come to. 
 
 But as it is neceffary to be very certain of 
 this, the fcum fliould be well examined, and if when 
 blown afide, it immediately forms a frefh fkum. 
 In this cafe it is fuffered to ftand for three or 
 
 four 
 
D Y 1 N G S I L K. 2S7 
 
 four hours, and then a new compofition Is made 
 in order to complete it. For this purpofe as 
 much water as is requifite to fill the vat is put into 
 a copper, boiling it with two pounds of afhes, 
 and four ounces of madder as at firft. This new 
 liquor is poured into the vat, raked and mixed, 
 and then left to ftand for four hours, when it 
 is ready for dying. 
 
 Silk for the Blue dye fliould be previoufly 
 boiled in about thirty five or forty pounds of 
 foap, to about every hundred pounds of filk, 
 but not impregnated with alum ; becaufe the 
 colouring particles of indigo, and indeed of all 
 refinous fubftances want no aftringents to make 
 them adhere. 
 
 Before the filk is dipped in the vat, it fhould 
 be previoufly waflied from the foap, and to dif- 
 charge it more effedually, twice beetled at the 
 river, having been divided into hanks for the con- 
 veniency of wringing. One of the hanks is 
 pafled on a round ftafF fourteen inches long, 
 and an inch and a half diameter, called ^paje 
 fee E. Plate II. fig. 2. then plunged into the vat, 
 giving it fome returns, fufficient to produce the 
 colour you would have, and to make it even. 
 
 It is then wrung as hard as poflible with the 
 hand over the Vat, not to wafte the liquor, 
 opening and fpreading with the hand till it 
 ungreens, when it fhould be immediately wafhed 
 in two different waters provided in troughs within 
 reach of the workmen. When wafhed it fhould 
 be put on the end of the peg or wringer, and 
 wrung as hard as polTiblc, lee this peg. E. Plarc 
 II. fig. I, and wiped with another fkeinlufHciently 
 
 drained. 
 
1288 T H £ A R T O F 
 
 drained, to imbibe the liquor that is fqueezcd 
 out by the wringer. It fliould have four turns 
 as quick as pofllble in this manner, and then 
 be wrung on the middle of the peg twelve times, 
 that the water remaining in fpots after the four 
 turns, may be equally diftributed. 
 
 When wrung and drained fufficiently the filk 
 fhould be fpread on the rods, that it may dry 
 as quick as pofTiblc, remembering if the hanks arc 
 large, to cut the thread by which they are tyed, 
 to prevent their reddening under the firing, 
 which frequently happens if kept tied. Every 
 hank to be dyed fnonld be fucceffively managed 
 in the fame manner. 
 
 Remarks on the Blue of Indigo, 
 
 SILK Dyers feldom ufe any other vat than 
 what I have above defcribedj there is however, 
 another that may be ufefully employed, efpecially 
 for greens. It is made like the preceding, with 
 this difference only, that half a pound of madder 
 is added for every pound of pearl afhes. This 
 Vat is much greener than the firfl, and gives the 
 filk a more permanent colour, and at the fame 
 time no lefs pleafing to the eye. When ex- 
 haufled of its colour, it becomes brown almofl 
 the colour of beer, whilft on the contrary the pre- 
 ceding vat becomes blackifh. 
 
 With regard to other vats, namelv, thofe made 
 with urine, whether cold or hot, and fuch as are 
 cold, made with copperas and without urine 5 
 they are no more ufed than the paftel or woad : 
 thefe kind of vacs are too tedious and befides 
 
 fome of them make the filk hard.r 
 
 Tlie 
 
D Y I N G S I L K. 2S9 
 
 The velTel ufed for the indigo vat is generally 
 of copper i I have already obferved, neverthe- 
 verthelefs it may be made of wood, but for this 
 purpofe the ftaves fhonld be an inch thick, of 
 a proper height and bound with iron hoops. The 
 bottom however fhould not be made of wood, 
 becaufe by the heat it would be apt to warp, 
 and to rot, from the moifture of the ground. 
 Inftead of wood therefore, the bottom fliould 
 be made of lime and cement put into the vat 
 as it ftands on tiie ground, about fix inches 
 high. While the mortar is frefh it fhould be 
 leveled with a trowel, and as it drys, the cracks 
 and opens carefully flopped. This mortar is 
 commonly made without more water than was ufed 
 for flaking the lime. 
 
 This vat cannot be ufed till the mortar is per- 
 fe6llydry. For the purpofe of emptying this vat, it 
 is ufual to make an opening of about eight or ten 
 inches at one fide, upon a level with the ground, 
 covering it with a plate of copper, and taking care 
 to fix it three or four inches below the ground, 
 nailing it clofe to prevent the liquor from ouzing 
 out. It is ufual to make the hearth oppofite to 
 this plate with the funnel or chimney,' tlie fame 
 as for the copper vat. But as this vat is liable 
 to open and difunite in confequence of the pearl- 
 afhes, which produce the fame efFefl on wooden 
 buckets, the copper vats are always moft ad- 
 vifable. 
 
 The indigo commonly ufed by the Silk Dyers 
 is called copper indigo, becaufe of the copper 
 colour on its furface, and even interiorly ; 
 neverthelefs feveral other kinds may be ufed 
 
 U with 
 
290 T H E A R T O F 
 
 with equal profit fuperior to this ; fuch a^ 
 the blue indigo, which is lighter, finer, and 
 more pure than the copper indigo j alfo Ca- 
 diz indigo, or the indigo of Gu^fimala, the fined 
 and beft of all. But the price of thofe, par- 
 ticularly the laft, prevents them from being 
 ufed. 
 
 Madder is generally added becaufe it is 
 fuppofed to improve the Blue, 
 
 AH Silk Dyers wafh the flour out of the bran, 
 that it may not be too glutinous -, the bran is 
 however ufeful for greening and working the 
 indigo ; we muft obferve that the greater the 
 quantity of bran, the better the vat, and there- 
 fore I have prefcribed more than is generally ufed 
 in this procefs. When the vat fubfides it (hould 
 be then raked, as I have already faid, and ftirred 
 no more, unlefs it fhould begin to green j for it 
 is obfcrved that the neceffary fermentation is 
 retared by the raking. 
 
 Silk dyed in the blue vat, is apt to take the 
 colour very unequally, which it does moft cer- 
 tainly, if not wafhed and dryed immediately after 
 dying ; hence the necefTity of dipping the filk 
 in fmall parcels, of wafhing directly, of wring- 
 ing it well, of drying inftantly, and opening it 
 well. Fine dry weather is always the beft for 
 thefe operations; for fhould water fall on it even 
 accidentally whilft drying, it would be full of 
 reddifh fpots. It is therefore neceflTary in moift 
 weather, and during the winter, to dry in a room 
 with a ftove, contiiiually fhaking the rods on 
 which the filk hangs. See Plate V, fig. i. 
 
 For 
 
D Y I N G S I L K. 291 
 
 For this purpofc it is necefliiry to have a kind 
 of frame. See Plate V. fig. i and 2, viz. An 
 oblong fquare formed of four pieces of wood, 
 two of them ten or twelve feet, and the other 
 two fix or feven, fufpended from the ceiling with 
 moveable iron cramps, B, fig. i and 2, in fuch 
 a manner that the frame may be eafily moved 
 backward and forward. On one of the two Aides, 
 C, fig. 2, there are a number of iron fpikes, D, 
 three inches long, and placed four or five inches 
 afunder. The other long fide E, has oppofite 
 to every fpike a fork, F. 
 
 When about to dry the filk, it fhould be put 
 on rods, one end of which having a hole, goes 
 on the fpike, whilfl: the other end refts on the fork, 
 by which means the rods are prevented from 
 fallino; when the Ihaker is moved. As the hanks 
 are wrung, they fliould be fpread on one of thefe 
 crofs rods, continually fhaking, till every part of 
 the filk is fucceffively arranged and dryed. 
 
 In order to produce difi^erent fhades of blue, 
 the filk intended for the darkeft, fliould be firfi: 
 dipped in the frefli vat, and fo on continuing 
 to dip in the fame manner, only as the vat 
 weakens, tlie filk fiiould be kept in a little 
 longer each time, till the vat is fo much ex- 
 haulled, that even after two or three minutes 
 or more, the fnade appears dill weaker. The 
 vat when thus cxhaufl:ed, ferves for the lighter 
 fiiades even to the lighteft. 
 
 It muft be obferved that having thus dyed 
 a quantity of filk, the vat generally tires, that is, 
 lofes its green, giving a colour Icfs beautiful. 
 
 U 2 In 
 
2^2 THE ART OF 
 
 In this cafe it is neceflary to feed the vat with a 
 frefh compofition or brevet j as follows. A decoc- 
 tion of one pound of pearl-afh, two ounces of 
 madder, and a handful of bran, boiled together 
 for half a quarter of an hour, either in water or 
 in a portion of the fame vat, if fhe is yet fuffici- 
 ently full to afford it. After this mixture is 
 added, it fliould be well raked, and fuffered to 
 reft for two or three hours, more or lefs, before 
 the dying is again refumed. 
 
 For the fineft blues, a frefh vat is the beft, and 
 therefore, if only pale blues are required, to make 
 a vat with a fmall quantity of indigo would 
 anfwer better than a ftrong vat that has been 
 weakened. Light blues done in this manner 
 are much more lively ; the Dyers however, 
 feldom attend to this circumftance, for the price 
 for dying blue being very moderate, it is not 
 worth their while. - 
 
 A blue vat according to the fize of the vefTel 
 defcribed, will take from one to eight pounds of 
 indigo, this quantity however may be exceeded by 
 fome pounds, without inconvenience. 
 
 Silk Dyers diftinguifli only five different blues, 
 viz. light blue, or porcelaine blue, JJcy blue, 
 middle blue. King's blue, ^nd Turki/Ij or complete 
 blue. Thefe have their intermediate fhades to 
 number, but no particular names. 
 
 Deep blues cannot be made by the vat only, 
 becaufe the indigo never gives a colour fuffici- 
 ently full for thefe fliades : Hence it is neceffary 
 toftrengthenrhe colour, by pre vioufly giving them 
 the archil, commonly called a footing or ground. 
 
 Turkijh 
 
D Y I N G S 1 L K. 293 
 
 'Turkijh blue, the deepeft of all blues, (hould 
 have a very ftrong archil liquor, prepared in the 
 following manner. This ground though not fo 
 ftrong is alfo given to king's blue, but they 
 fhould all of them be dipped in a frefli vat well 
 fupplied. 
 
 To give this archil liquor or ground, the filk 
 when taken out of the boiling, jQiould be beetled 
 at the river, and then hung to drain. 
 
 The filk is then dipped in the archil liquor 
 whilft very hoc, and returned till the colour 
 becomes uniform. It fhould be afterwards 
 wafhed and beetled, then drefled, and then dipped 
 in the vat. 
 
 With regard to all other blues, they require no 
 ground, only previous to their being dipped in 
 the vat, the filk iliould be carefully cleanfed from 
 the foap after boiling and twice beetled, elfe the 
 foap leaves a white fediment, which if in any 
 quantity fpoils the vat. 
 
 There is yet another blue as dark as king's 
 blue, but the ground for this is vnade of cochineal, 
 inftead of archil, for which reafon it is alfo called 
 fine blue. But as the dying with cochineal 
 requires a particular procefs, we Ihall defer this 
 colour to the article /w*? violet. 
 
 Kings blue in imitation of blue cloth is made 
 in the following manner. 
 
 One ounce of Verdigris for every pound of 
 filk is dilTolvcd in a mortar or bafonof cold water, 
 by means of a peftal j and the filks generally in 
 hanks of about five or fix ounces returned ia 
 this liquor. They take a flight fliade of ver- 
 U 3 digreafe. 
 
294 THEARTOF 
 
 digrlsj but fo trifling as to be fcarce perceptible 
 
 when dry. 
 
 When fufficiently verdigreafed, the filks 
 fliould be wrung, then put on the rods and 
 dipped in a cold logwood liquor, more or 
 lefs ftrong according to the fhade required. 
 In this liquor it takes a blue, like the kings 
 blue on cloth j but the colour is very bad, 
 flies ofl^ immediately, changing to an iron 
 grey. To prevent this inconvenience and 
 to make it more permanent it fhould be taken 
 paler from the logwood than the pattern to be 
 matched, giving it a little warm archil, which 
 reddens and roufes the browning. It fhould 
 afterwards be dipped in the vat when the colour 
 will be much more durable. 
 
 When the fllk is to be dyed raw, or without 
 having been boiled, care fliould be taken to chufe 
 the whiteft. It Ihould be formed into hanks 
 and foaked in water; but to make the water 
 penetrate more perfeftly, it fhould be twice 
 beetled. When foaked and dried, the hanks are 
 dipped in the vat, like boiled filks, and then 
 dried in the fame manner. 
 
 Raw filk generally takes the dye fooner and 
 better than boiled ; as much as polTible therefore 
 of the boiled fhould be dipped before the raw, 
 the firft requiring the whole Itrength of the vat. 
 If the blue for the raw filk be a fhade requiring 
 archil, or any of the above mentioned ingredients 
 it fhould be given ia the fame manner as to boiled 
 
 Of 
 
DYING SILK 295 
 
 Of yello'uj. 
 '^ I *' H E boiling of filk intended for Yellow 
 fhould have about twenty pounds of foap 
 for ever hundred pounds of filk. 
 
 When boiled they fhould be waflied, alumed, 
 and again waflied, (which is called refrefliing) 
 drefTed and put on the rods in hanks of about 
 feven or eight ounces, and then dipped and 
 returned in the yellow liquor. 
 
 To make fine Yellow, or grain Yellow, as 
 the Silk Dyers call it, they feldona ufc any other 
 ingredient befides weld. 
 
 For this purpofe a copper is prepared with 
 about two pounds of weld to every pound 
 of filk, and that all the weld may be well 
 foaked it is loaded with a large pieces of wood. 
 When it has boiled a good quarter of an hour, 
 the bunches are puflied to the far end of the 
 copper, or rather, if you pleafe taken out; and 
 by means of a bucket or ladle all the liquor may 
 be taken out of the copper, and ftrained into 
 a copper or wooden trough, fuch as the copper 
 trough B or C, or the wooden one D. Plate III. 
 fig. 2. that is, by putting a fieve or linen cloth 
 acrofs the trough, by which means the liquor 
 is cleanfed from all the grain and little ftraws 
 left by the weld in boiling. The liquor thus 
 ftrained is left to cool till you can bear your 
 hand in it: the filk is then dipped and returned 
 till the colour becomes uniform. See the man- 
 ner of returning the filk over a trough in C 
 Plate II. fig. I. If this boiling does not make 
 fufficient to fill the trough, it muft be fupplied 
 U 4 with 
 
2^6 THEARTOF 
 
 with water, which fhould be added before the 
 liquor is cold, that the degree of h^at already 
 mentioned fhould be preferved. In general, all 
 dying veflels fhould be full, that, the filk 
 when dipped fHouid be only two inches from 
 the edge. 
 
 During this operation the weld is a fecond 
 time boiled in frefh water, and when it has 
 boiled the filk fliould be raifed at one end of 
 the trough, either upon a kind of barrow, or 
 upon the edge of the trough. Half the liquor 
 is then thrown away and replenifhed by adding 
 of the fecond boiling as much as was taken 
 from the firft, obferving to rake and mix the 
 liquor well : fuch is generally the method 
 when any new addition is made 3 at leaft 
 if the contrary is not particularly fpecified. 
 This new liquor may be ufed rather hotter than 
 the firft; it fhould neverthelefs be always of a 
 n^oderate heat, becaufe otherwife it would deflroy 
 a part of the colour which the filk had already 
 taken, probably owing to the filk being deprived 
 of part of the alum by the heat of the liquor. 
 The filk is returned in this frefh liquor as at 
 firfl; mean while you prepare a folution of 
 pearl-alh in proportion of about one pound 
 to every twenty pounds of filk. 
 
 For this purpofe the pearl-afh is put into a 
 copper, and the fecond liquor, quite boiling, 
 poured on it, ftirring in order to afTift 
 the diffolving of the fait; This fmall liquor 
 is left to fubfide, and the filk is a fecond tim.e 
 raifed on the barrow or trough, throwing into 
 the liquor about two or three Udles pf the clearefV 
 
DYING SILK. 297 
 
 of the folution. The liquor is then well raked, 
 the filk rc-plunged, and again returned. 
 
 This alkali developes and brightens the yellow 
 of the weld. 
 
 After feven or eight returns, one hank is 
 wrung on the peg to try if the colour be full 
 enough and fufficiently bright; if deficient, a 
 little more of the folution of the allies muft be 
 added, and the rennainder of the filk done in the 
 fanne manner till it has taken the fhade required. 
 The lixivium, feparately prepared may be 
 added if you will, at the fame time with the 
 fecond boiling of the weed-liquor ; care lliould 
 be taken however that the liquor be not too 
 hot. This operation is only for Yellows, nor 
 would the liquor do for greens. 
 
 For Yellow ftill fuller, approaching to jonquil, 
 when the pearl-afli is added, it may be alfo 
 neceflary to add fome rocou, in proportion to the 
 required. 
 
 We Ihall hereafter, when treating of orange 
 colours, give the method of preparing the roucou. 
 For the light Ihades, fuch as pale lemon or 
 Canary-bird, they fhould be boiled in the fame 
 manner as for blues, thefe Ihades being much 
 more beautiful and tranfparent when dipped in 
 a clear ground. See the article on the blue 
 of the vat. 
 
 To do this, when the weld is ready to boil, 
 fome of the liquor fhould be taken out 
 out and mixed with a little clean water, and a 
 little of the liquor of the vat if boiled without 
 ^zure. The filk is then dipped as ufual, and 
 
 i if 
 
!29t THEARTOF 
 
 if deficient in fhade, the weld liquor muft be 
 re-added and the dipping repeated if neceffary 
 to complete the (hade required. 
 
 For deeper lemon colours the weld Ihould 
 boil as for Yellows, adding only a certain quan- 
 tity with clean water according to the fulnefs 
 of the fhade required ; fome of the liquor of 
 the vat may alfo be added if neceffary i but 
 thcfe dark lemon colours may be boiled in the 
 common boiling as for yellows. It muft be 
 obferved, however, that the blue of the vac 
 is never added to thefe colours but when it is 
 intended to give them a greenifh caft. 
 
 Thefe very pale Yellow Ibades are rather dif- 
 ficult, as they are very frequently liable to be 
 affefted by the air, and to deepen too much 
 while drying. This happens when alumed in 
 the common way, which is too much; but this 
 inconvenience may be avoided, if inftead of 
 aluming as for other Yellows, a feparate liquor 
 is prepared, or even without any particular pre- 
 paration, only a little alum put' into the liquor 
 of the weld. 
 
 Remarks on Tellows. 
 
 TN manufa<5lories where they cannot eafily pro- 
 •■■ cure weld, they make ufe of the grains of 
 Avignon, and precifely in the fame mannerj 
 but it gives a lefs permanent colour. 
 
 There are two fpecies of weld : the baftard 
 or wild kind, which grows naturally in the 
 fields, is rather higher than the other and the 
 flalks much thicker. » 
 
 The 
 
D Y I N G S I L K. 299 
 
 The cultivated weld on the contrary, is the 
 more efteemed in proportion as their ftalks are 
 Ihorter and finer. The Dyers give it the prefe- 
 rence as it produces more dye than the baftard, 
 and are always careful to choofe it very ripe and 
 yellow. 
 
 It fometimes comes from Spain, and is very 
 good J but the Parifian Dyers ufe that which 
 grows in the environs of Pontoife, Chantilly, 
 and other neighbouring places, where they fow 
 it in the month of March and gather it in June 
 the following year: it therefore remains all the 
 winter in the ground. Sandy foils are the pro- 
 pereft for this plant. 
 
 When ripe, it is gathered and dried, and then 
 tied in bunches. The Dyers boil the bunches 
 entire, becaufe every part is produdive of colour. 
 
 Raw filk to be dyed yellow, is preferable in 
 proportion to its natural whitenefs : it need not 
 however be fo very white as for blues. 
 
 Aurora, Orange, Mordore, Gold Colour, and 
 Chamois, 
 
 OCOU, the ingredient producing thefe 
 various colours on filk, is of the nature 
 of thofe plants whofe colouring particles refide 
 in their refinous fubftance. It is therefore dif- 
 folved by an alkaline fait, as we fhall prefently 
 mention j nor is there any neceffity for the filk 
 to be impregnated with alum; becaufe in gene- 
 ral this 'aftringent is only requifitc for obtaining 
 and confirming the extradive colours, which 
 arc naturally foluble in water. 
 
 To 
 
 R 
 
30» THEARTOF 
 
 To prepare the rocou, it is neceflary to have 
 a large copper cullender about eight or ten inches 
 deep, and half as wide, full of holes on all fides 
 about as large as the fmall holes of a fkimmer, 
 with two copper or iron handles. It is repre- 
 fented in F. Plate II. fig. 2. 
 
 A copper of a convenient fize, with either 
 river or any other foft water, proper for difTolv- 
 ing the foap is heated. While the water is 
 heating, the rocou is cut into bits and put into 
 the cullender juft defcribed, called the rocou--^o\:. 
 
 The whole is then plunged into the water, 
 by means of a wooden peftel G. Plate II. fig. 2. 
 it is diflblved and pafied through the cullender. 
 When the rocou is entirely pafTed, feme pearl 
 afhes are put in the fame cullender and undergo 
 the fame operation. The liquor is then ftirred with 
 a rod, fuffered to boil once or twice, and then 
 immediately checked with cold water; when the 
 fire is taken from under the copper to prevent 
 jt from boiling any longer. 
 
 You may diflblve as much rocou as you think 
 proper; but for every pound of rocou there 
 muft be twelve ounces or one pound of aflies: 
 with lefs, the colour would not be fufficiently 
 folid, but would change into a brick or tile 
 colour, called tiling. As the afhes are not always 
 of an equal ftrength, the Dyer muft judge of 
 the quantity requifite to produce the defired 
 cfFe(5t on the rocou. The effeft of the aflies 
 ufed in diffolving the rccoUj is to deftroy the brick 
 colour, to make it take a beautiful bright yellow, 
 and to render this colour more durable. 
 
 If 
 
D Y I N G S I L K. 301 
 
 If when ufing the rocou the colour appears to 
 have too much of the brick colour, fhewing that 
 it wants more afhes, it will be then necefTary to 
 make an addition, giving it another boil and 
 checking with cold water as in the firft operation: 
 it is then ftirred with a ftidk and left to fettle. 
 
 Rocou diflblved in this manner will keep 
 without fpoiling as long as you pleafe, provided 
 care to be taken to keep it clean* 
 
 Silks intended for Aurora or Orange colour 
 require only the ufual boiling — twenty pounds 
 to one hundred pounds of foap. When thefe 
 have been wafhed and the foap beat out 
 they are drained on the pole, put on the rods in 
 large hanks, and while difpofed in this manner, 
 a copper half full of river water is made hot; 
 fome of the rocou folution is then put into it, 
 and the whole heated to fuch a degree that vou 
 cannot bear to put your hand into it j but not 
 ready to boil, that is, between hot and boiling; 
 and then having ftirred the liquor in order to mix 
 the rocou and water perfectly, the filks are re- 
 turned. 
 
 When they appear even, one of the hanks is 
 taken out, wafhed and twice beetled, and then 
 once wrung on the peg to try whether the co- 
 lour be fufficiently full j if not, fome more roucoti 
 is added, the liquor ftirred, and the filk again 
 returned till equal to expefbation. 
 
 When finiftied, the whole is waftied and twice 
 beat at the river, which is abfolutely neceflary 
 to difcharge the fuperfluous rocouy otherwife the 
 filk is liable to fmear, and always lefs beautiful. 
 
 The 
 
302 THEARTOF 
 
 The Aurora ferves as a ground to another 
 colour called Mordore. When the fiJk has taken 
 the Aurora, been walhed and alumed as ufual, 
 it is then cooled at the river and a frefh liquor 
 prepared, rather hot, to which is added fome 
 decodtion of fuftic, and a little of the logwood 
 decoflion. The filk is returned in this liquor; 
 but if apparently too red, by throwing in a 
 fmall quantity of the folution of copperas you 
 make it fufficiently yellow. The firft fhades of 
 this colour require nothing more than a little 
 copperas and fuftic, which makes them precifeiy 
 one fhade above the Aurora. 
 
 The alum folution given to the filk after the 
 rocoti ground is neceflary to extract and fix the 
 dye of the fuftic and logwood ufed in the Alor- 
 dore, the dye of thefe woods refiding in their 
 extraflive particles. 
 
 To dye raw filk Aurora, it fliould be chofen 
 for the natural whitenefs of its colour, as for 
 yellow; having foaked it you fhould give the 
 ;c^(7/niquor but juft warm, or even cold, other- 
 wife the afhes by which the rccou was diflblved 
 would deftroy the natural and neceflary elafticity 
 of the filk. 
 
 For the Oranges and Mordores, the opera- 
 tion is continued precifeiy in the fame manner as 
 for boiled filk. 
 
 When you have but a fmall parcel of filk to 
 dye, diflfolve a proportionable quantity of rocoti ; 
 havingcooled theliquorwith fre(h water, it Ihould 
 ftand till the grounds fmk to the bottom of the 
 copper before the fiik is dipped. 
 
 jL What 
 
D Y I N G S I L K. 303 
 
 What we have hitherto faid concerns the filk 
 defigned for the Aurora (hadej but to produce 
 the Orange, a fliade much redder than the 
 Aurora, it is necefiary after the rocou dye, to 
 redden the filk with vinegar, alum, or lemon 
 juice. Thefe acids in faturating the alkali ufed 
 in diflblving and preparing the rocou, deftroy 
 the yellow fhade given by this alkali, refloring 
 its natural fhade which is much redder. 
 
 Vinegar or lemon juice will fuffice to give the 
 orange (hade if not very deep; but, for the ex- 
 tream dark, it is the cuftom at Paris to dip in 
 a folution of alum, which greatly reddens the 
 the rocou'i and when ftill deficient in colour to 
 dip in a weak decodtion of Brafil wood. At 
 Lyons they frequently make ufe of their old 
 liquors as a ground for their fafFron colours. 
 
 Wlien the Oranges are reddened with alum, 
 they fhould be wafhed at the riverj but there 
 is no neceflity for beetling unlefs the colour be 
 too red. 
 
 The rocou liquor which had been ufed for the 
 Auroras, is yet fufficiently ftrong to give the 
 ground for the firft Ihade to the fire colours (of 
 which hereafter) to brighten the deep yellows, 
 and for the Gold and ChamoiSy or goat colours. 
 Thefe fhades may be made after the Aurora 
 without any difficulty, the rocou being of itfelf 
 fufficient. Neverthelefs the redder fhades of 
 the goat-colour require reddening as for Orange*, 
 unlefs you choofe rather to prepare your rocou on 
 purpole, which is done in the following manner: 
 
 Having dilTolved the rocou as above-men- 
 tioned, it fhould boil, but without any pearl-afh. 
 
 When 
 
304 THEARTOP 
 
 When the liquor fubfides, a part of it is added 
 to the alkaline folution of the rocou, which, 
 for thefe goat colours, lufficiently reddens the 
 liquor J nor is there any neceffity for putting nauch 
 pearl-afh in the folution of the rocou. Thefe 
 goat colours require to be once beetled when 
 wafhed at the river. 
 
 The rocou is generally brought us In lumps 
 of about two or three pounds, wrapped in 
 large leaves, and fometimes in great lumps 
 •without any wrappers. It makes however no 
 difference, as the Dyers are only attentive to 
 its being of a good flelh colour and free from 
 black veins. The rocou colours are not very 
 folid, changing after fome time to a brickilh 
 hue and very weaki but it is hardly poffible to 
 produce thefe fhades with the ingredients of 
 the lefTer dye; becaufe the madder and weld 
 producing Auroras and Oranges on wool, has 
 not the fame effeft on filk; befides the rocou 
 colours are very beautiful, and therefore prefa- 
 rable, as in filk-dying beauty is preferable to 
 folidity. 
 
 Red. Fine Crimjon, 
 
 THE colour extrafted from cochineal is 
 called Fine Crimfon, becaufe of its beauty 
 and folidity: it refides in the extraftive matter, 
 is very foluble in water, and upon that account 
 requires the common aftringent, which is 
 alum. 
 
 Silk intended for the crimfon of cochineal, 
 Ihould have only twenty pounds of foap to a 
 hundred pounds of fUk, and no azure 5 becaufe 
 
 the 
 
DYING SILK. 305 
 
 the little natural yellow ftill remaining in the 
 filk, after only this quantity of foap, is favour- 
 able to the colour. 
 
 Having walhed and beetled the filk at the 
 river to difcharge it well of the foap, it is put 
 in a very ftrong folution of alum, where it 
 lliould remain generally from night till the next 
 morning, about feven or eight hours. The 
 filk is then waflied and twice beetled at the 
 river, during which time the following liquor 
 is thus prepared : 
 
 You fill a long boiler about one-half or two- 
 thirds full of river waterj when this water boils 
 you throw in fome white nutgalls pounded, let- 
 ting it boil a little longer, about a quar- 
 ter of an ounce to two ounces for every pound 
 of filk. If the nutgalls are well pounded and 
 fifted they may be put in at the fame time with 
 the cochineal. 
 
 The filk being waflied, beetled, and diftributed 
 upon the rods, you throw into the liquor the 
 cochineal, carefully pounded and fifted j it 
 muft be then well fi:irred with a flick and 
 ■efterwards boiled. You may put from two 
 to three ounces for every pound of filk, ac- 
 cording to the fiiade required. For the moft 
 common crimfon colours, two ounces and 
 a half, is fufiicient it being feldom neceflfary 
 to ufe three ounces except for fome particular 
 match. 
 
 When the cochineal has boiled, you add to 
 the liquor, for every pound of cochineal, about 
 an ounce of the folution of tin in aqua-regia ; it 
 
 X is 
 
3«>6 THEARTOF 
 
 is called compofjionj and made in the following 
 manner. 
 
 One pound of the fpirit of nitre, two ounces 
 of fal-ammoniac, and fix ounces of fine tin in 
 grains : the two lad are put into an earthen pot 
 of a proper fize; twelve ounces of water is then 
 poured on it, the fpirit of nitre afterwards added, 
 and the whole left to diflblve. 
 
 This compofjion contains much more tin and 
 fal- ammoniac than is ufed for the fcarlet of 
 cochineal on wool; it is however abfolutely 
 neceffary. 
 
 This quantity of the compofition fhould be 
 •well mixed and ftirred in the liquor, and the 
 copper then filled with cold water, about eight 
 or ten quarts to every pound of fine filk ; coarfe 
 filk requiring lefs, as it occupies lefs fpace. The 
 liquor is then fit to receive the filk which is 
 immerfed, and returned till it appears uniform, 
 generally requiring about five or fix returns: 
 The fire is then ftirred, and whilft the liquor is 
 boiling, which it fiiould do for two hours, the 
 filk is returned from time to time. The fire is then 
 taken from under the copper, and the filk put to 
 foak in the fame manner as foraluming. It fhould 
 remain for five or fix hours or even if the liquor 
 be ready at night, till the next morning. It is 
 then taken out, wafhed at the river, twice 
 beetled, wrung as ufual and put on the perches 
 to dry. 
 
 To fadden the grain fcarlets the filk 
 when taken out of the cochineal liquor, 
 is wafhed and twice beetled at the river; the 
 Water liquor is then prepared^ in fummer as it 
 
 is 
 
DYING SILK. 307 
 
 is, but in winter a little warmed, adding a folution 
 of copperas, more or lefs according to the darknefs 
 of the fhade required. The filk fhould be returned 
 in this liquor, in fmall hanks, till it becomes very 
 even, and when the Iliade is equal to expeftation, 
 Ihould be taken out, wrung and put to dry- 
 without v/alliing if you like, becaufe the cop- 
 peras liquor is little more than clean water. The 
 copperas gives the cochineal a violet tinft, 
 depriving it of its yellow. If however it fhould 
 appear to lofe too much of its yellow, it may be 
 preferved by adding to the copperas liquor a 
 little of the decodion of fufiic. Nothing but 
 copperas will fadden grain fcarlets j the logwood 
 being quite ufelefs for this purpofe ; copperas 
 alone will fuffice, as it darkens greatly with the 
 nutgalls ufed in grain fcarlets. 
 
 Remarks on grain Crimfon, 
 
 'T^HE procefs juft related for producing this 
 ■■' colour is the moft in ufe at prefent, as it 
 gives a more beautiful fhade than can be ob- 
 tained by any other method. Neverthelefs as 
 many Dyers proceed in the old way, we fhall 
 defcribe it here. 
 
 For thefe grain fcarlets the rocou pafle as 
 imported from the Indies, is added in the boiling 
 of the filk. 
 
 When the foap boils, about an ounce of rocou 
 is bruifed in the cullender, in the fame manner as 
 defcribed for orange colours. It fliould be 
 pounded as fine as pofTible left any lumps fhould 
 remain, and flick to the filk. 
 
 X 2 This 
 
3o8 THEARTOF 
 
 This fmall quantity of rocou, in the boiling 
 of the filk, gives it an IJahella colour, tolerably 
 permanent, and has the fanne effedt as the 
 compofition, yellowing a little. The rennain- 
 der, of this procefs is juft the fame as the pre- 
 ceding ; but without the addition of either com- 
 pofition or tartar. 
 
 The filk Dyers are accuftomed to ufe only 
 the fineft cochineal, and even always prefer the 
 prepared cochineal, which is cleanfed from all 
 its impurities, fifted and picked. This is cer- 
 tainly commendable, confidering that the cochi- 
 neal not prepared being lefs pure, the more of it 
 muft be added, and that the dregs remaining in 
 the liquor may injure the colour. 
 
 The white tartar ufed in grain fcarlets, ferves 
 to exalt and yellow the colour of the cochineal, 
 producing this efFedt by its acidity, all acids 
 having the fame effe£b : we muft however ob- 
 ferve that tartar is preferable, as it gives a more 
 beautiful tinft. 
 
 But notwithftanding the quality of the tartar, 
 it is ftill incapable of exalting the colour of the 
 cochineal fufficient to produce a grain fcarler, 
 whatever quantity may be added if employed by 
 itfelf, for if the dofe of this ingredient be mode- 
 rate, it will not yellow enough, and if too large 
 it deftroys and degrades the colour, without any 
 good efFecb. 
 
 In order to aflift the tartar, it will be neceflary 
 to add fome of the compofition, which, as we 
 have feen, is nothing more than a folution of 
 tin in aqua-regia. This folution with cochineal, 
 when ufed for dying of worfled, has a confider- 
 5 able 
 
DYING SILK. 309 
 
 able effect, changing it from a crimfon its 
 natural colour, to a prodigious bright fire colour, 
 produces only a crimfon when applied to 
 filk : but it gives this colour a very beautiful 
 tindt i for uniting with the tartar it augments 
 the effeft, without impoverifhing the colour ; 
 faving the rocou ground as we have before 
 obferved. 
 
 As to nutgalls they produce no good efFedlwith 
 regard to colour. On the contrary, if you ufe too 
 much, they tarnifh to a degree, entirely fpoiling 
 the colour ; neverthelefs it is always the cullom 
 to put the quantity we have fpecified. 
 
 One might probably conjedure from the intro- 
 duflion of this pradlice, that fcarlets were for- 
 merly produced with cochineal, without either 
 tartar or compofition, yellowing only with 
 rocou ; filk dyed in this manner however 
 would have no ruftling, fo that it could not be 
 diftinguiflied from filk dyed with brafil wood. 
 Nutgalls on account of their concealed acid, 
 having the property of giving the filk a great 
 ruftling, is therefore aided with cochineal i by 
 which means thefe fcarlets are diftinguilhed by 
 the feel from the fcarlet of brafil wood : for we 
 muft obferve that the brafil dye cannot ftand the 
 adion of the nutgalls, by which it is entirely 
 deftroyed. 
 
 But befides giving this ruftling to the filk, 
 it has at the fame time the fingular and very 
 remarkable quality of adding to its weight very 
 confiderably, fo that by putting one ounce of 
 nutgalls to every pound of filk, you add two, 
 pr two and a half per cent, to the weights 
 
 X 3 by 
 
310 THEARTOF 
 
 by this means fome filk dyers add ev^n 
 feven or eight per Cent. They are -fo much 
 a'ccLiftomed to this advantage in weight, owing 
 to the nutgalls, that even when this drug 
 becomes iifelefsj by the addition of the 
 tartar and compofition, which produces the 
 fame ruftling, they make it flill necefTary on 
 account of the weight, which is not propor- 
 tionably increafed by the other acids. White 
 nutgalls are always preferable to the black, as they 
 injure the colours much lefs,. We may however 
 hence conclude that for grain fcarlets, nutgalls 
 are not only ufelefs but very prejudicial, and 
 ferving only as an impofition, is a blameable 
 practice, injurious to commerce, and there- 
 fore that in cafe of any new regulation in 
 the art of dying filk, it is to be hoped that 
 this drug in the produdlion of fine fcarlets, may 
 be abfolutely prohibited. 
 
 The filk is thus fuffered to remain in the 
 liquor, in order to make it wholly imbibe the 
 cochineal j during this repofe, it takes a good 
 halffhade, and the colour yellowing in proportion, 
 gives it a much finer call. 
 
 One would be apt to believe that leaving the 
 filk to boil in the liquor for a longer time would 
 bave the fame efl^eft ; but experience proves the 
 contrary ; befides it would be more expenfive 
 confidering that it would be necefTary to continue 
 the fire. 
 
 The cochineal leaves on the filk, v/hen taken 
 ©ut of the liquor, a kind of fcale, or rather the 
 fkin of the infe<^, which always contains a por- 
 tion of the colouring juice* In order therefore to 
 
 cleanfe 
 
DYING SILK. 3ir 
 
 cleanfe tbe filk perfedly from this kind of bran, 
 it is twice beetled when waihed at the river. By 
 this means the colour becomes more brilliant, 
 clearer and fuller. 
 
 The two beetlings before dying are neceflary 
 becaufe the filk having been ftrongly alumed 
 for this colour, and intended to boil in the 
 dying liquor for a great while, would without 
 this precaution, yield a certain quantity of 
 the alum, which not only injures the colour, but 
 likewife prevents the perfe(n; extradion of the' 
 cochineal ; for generally all neutral falts added tp 
 the dying liquor, have more or lefs this incon- 
 venience. 
 
 The grain, or cochineal crimfon, fuch as 
 defcribed, is not only a very beautiful, but may 
 be confidered as a moit excellent colour : it is 
 the moft permanent of all dyes for filk. It per- 
 fetlly refills the boiling with foap, and evidently 
 fuffers no alteration from either the fun or the 
 air. Silk fluffs of this colour, commonly ufed 
 in furniture, are fooner worn out than faded. 
 It is frequently feen that the colour of this grain 
 crimfon in furniture, though more than fixty 
 years old, is fcarce impaired. The only obferv- 
 able difference occafioned by time is, that by 
 lofing the yellow cafl it becomes rather darker, 
 approaching nearer to the violet. 
 
 Good judges need only handle grain crimfon, 
 to diftinguifh it from the falfe dye of the brafii 
 wood, of which hereafter ; for this laft colour 
 not bearing the acids, the filk cannot Iiave 
 that ruftling and firmnefs given by the acids 
 xifed in grain crimfon. When the fiik is fabri- 
 
 X 4 is 
 
312 THE ART OF 
 
 cated into ftufF, and the buyers are doubtful 
 concerning the dye, let thenn try it with f inegar : 
 If dyed with cochineal it will fland the teflr, 
 but if with brafil, it inftantly fpots yellow and the 
 colour is deftroyed. 
 
 OfFalJe Crirfljon or the red of BrafilWood. 
 
 ''T^HIS wood furnifhes an extra6tive dye in 
 "*' great abundance, and tolerably beautiful, 
 though evidently inferior to the cochineal. It is 
 called falfe crinnfon on account of its little foli- 
 dity, compared with the grain crimfon; but being 
 infinitely cheaper, is conlequently very much 
 ufed. 
 
 Silk intended for the brafil red, fliould in the 
 boiling, have twenty pounds of foap to every 
 hundred weight of lilki it fhould be alumed 
 as ufual, but there is no occafion to make the 
 aluming fo ftrong as for grain crimfon ; when the 
 filk is alumed it fhould be wrung and cooled at 
 the river. 
 
 During the time of wafhing, fome water is 
 heated in a copper j m.ean while a trough is 
 prepared with a ftrong decodtion of brafil wood, 
 about half a bucket to every pound of fiik, more 
 or lefs according to the ftrength of the decodion, 
 and the (hade required : a proper quantity of warm 
 "water is then poured into the trough. The filk 
 is afterwards dipped and then returned, as the 
 yellows J in this liquor it takes a red, which if 
 hard water has been ufed is generally of the 
 crimfon fhadej but if foft water, this red is 
 yellower than the crimfon of cochineal, which it 
 is always meant to imitate as much as pofDblp. 
 
 For 
 
DYING SILK 313 
 
 For this purpofe it always requires faddenng which 
 is done in the following manner. 
 
 A fmall quantity of pearl-afh fhould be djf-- 
 folved in warm water, one pound may fuffice for 
 every thirty or forty pounds offilk; the filk is 
 then wafhed at the river, once beetled and the 
 lixivium of the kelp put into a frefh trough and 
 filled with cold water j in this water the filk is 
 .dipped J it immediately takes a beautiful grain 
 tindlj leaving in the water a little of its dye; 
 After this the filk is walhed at the river, then 
 wrung and put on the rods to dry. 
 
 In fome manufaftories, inflead of ufing pearl- 
 afli in faddening, the filk is dipped in hot water 
 only, till it has acquired the proper fhade, but 
 this operation is a grc;.t deal more tedious and 
 more extravagant, confidering the confumption 
 of the woodi it has therefore no advantage over 
 the preceding ; efpecially as it necelTarily re- 
 quires more dye, the warm water greatly dif- 
 charging the colour. 
 
 In others, it is the cuftom to crimfon 
 jn the fame liquor in which it was dyed, 
 by adding to it a little of the lixivium ; this 
 is by much the ihorteft method, though not 
 often ufed, becaufe it requires more aflies, and 
 the fcarlet done in this manner is never fo han4- 
 fome. 
 
 It is v/ell known that for pale fhadcs nothings^ 
 more is required than to put lefs of .the brafil de- 
 coftion to the liquor, but this is feldom pra6lifed, 
 fcecaufethe colours are not beautiful. 
 
 J^marks 
 
314 THE ART OF 
 
 Remarks on the Red or Crimjon of BrafJ wood, 
 
 THIS colour is not difficult, neither is it 
 attended with ''.mbaraflrnent. The filk- 
 dyers are always provici<:d with the decoflion of 
 brafil which is made in the following manner. The 
 wood is cut into fmail chipsj about a hundred 
 and fifty pounds of thefe chips are put into a 
 copper, containing about ^fixty buckets. The 
 copper is then filled, and the chips boiled for 
 three hours, fupplying the water as it evaporates. 
 Some of the decoction is then tunned into a 
 barrel, and as much moj'C clean water poured 
 on the chips, which are fuffered to boil three 
 hours longer, and this repeated till it has had 
 in all four boilings, after which the wood is 
 exhaufted of colour. 
 
 It is a cuftom with fome dyers to preferve thefe 
 different boilings fepartcly j the firft is the 
 llrongefl: but not often the moft beautiful, 
 becaufe loaded with the impurities of the wood. 
 The lad is generally the cleareft and weakeft j 
 it has been found however, that by mixing them 
 together they make a homogeneous liquor that 
 is very ufeful. 
 
 Probably, by wafliing the v/ood in hot water 
 previoufly, a juice might be obtained that would 
 give rather a finer colour; but this would beof too 
 little importance to warrant fo much trouble 
 and fo many precautions. It is ncverthclefs 
 proper to take off the black fkim that is upon the 
 furface of each deco(5lion ; the colour will be 
 (iiuch the more beautiful. 
 
 This 
 
DYING SILK. 315 
 
 This Brafil decoction is commonly kept a 
 fortnight or three wfeks before it is ufed, becaufe 
 it has been obferv^d that it undergoes a kind of 
 filent fermentation, which greatly improves the 
 colour. It is even the cuftom with fome dyers, 
 to leave it ftand four or five months, till it be- 
 comes fat and oily; but it has never been 
 obferved, at Icaft v/ith regard to filk, that it is 
 better for keeping fo long. A fortnight or 
 three weeks, as we have already faid, is quite 
 fufficient to give it all its quality. If ufed when 
 newly made, it gives a more rofey colour and 
 a greater quantity is neceffary, becaufe then the 
 dye is much weaker. 
 
 With regard to the deco<5lion of the brafil 
 ■wood, it may be made either with river or well 
 water. The only perceptible advantage in 
 the ufe of well-water, either in the decodtion of 
 the wood or in the liquor, is that the red does 
 not require to be crimfoned with thepearl-afhes; 
 we mufthowcverobfcrve that the reds made with 
 river water, and afterwards faddened with afhes, 
 have a more pleafingeffedl to the eye. 
 
 Under the general denomination of brafil 
 wood are comprehended a variety of fpecies, 
 which though all apparently producing the 
 fame colour, are neverthelefs very different, 
 both in refpedl of the beauty and goodnefs of 
 the colour. The moft beautiful, and for filk 
 the bed, is called farnamhoKc, This wood is 
 alfo the deareft, very heavy, imported with the 
 bark, and is extremely brown. When firft cut 
 down, it is more yellow than red at the infide, 
 jjut by being expofed to the air, it gradually 
 
 becomes 
 
3i6 THE ART OF 
 
 becomes redder. Its colour however is never 
 very deep. The cleaned freefl from knots and 
 the higheft in colour is the beil. 
 
 Silk-dyers feldom make ufe of the wood of 
 St. Mariha, which differs from the preceding 
 by being redder and deeper -, it may never- 
 thelefs be ufed with advantage for very dark 
 colours. They certainly make great ufe of it 
 for callicoes and cottons. 
 
 There is befides another wood more like the 
 Farnambouc called Japon wood or brefillety but 
 as it gives lefs colour, it is only ufed for the 
 lighter fhades. The Farnamhouc however may 
 be ufed with more advantage even for thofe 
 fhades, the colour of the Japon being extrafled 
 with great difficulty. 
 
 This wood may be eafijy diflinguiihed from 
 Farnamhouc, being much paler, and the logs not 
 fo large, it is a little pithy at the infide. 
 
 Browns and falfe reds are commonly called 
 brown reds, becaufe in the dye houfes crimfons 
 are called falfe reds. 
 
 In making thefe Ihades, when the filk has 
 imbibed the brafil to a fufficient degree, fome 
 decoflion of logwood is added to the liquor, 
 more or lefs according to the fhade required. 
 If deficient in the violet tinge, a little of the 
 lixivium may be added to the water, as for 
 falfe crimfon. 
 
 To dye this falfe colour in the raw, the filk 
 fhould be naturally as white as for yellow. 
 When foaked and alumed, the procefs is the 
 fame as for boiled filk. 
 
 Of 
 
DYING SILK. 317 
 
 Of Scarlet, Orange Red^ and Cherry colour. 
 
 '"T^HESE colours are a variety of lively reds, 
 -'' heightened by a tin6t yellower than crimfon. 
 They are eafily yellowed on wool, or vivified 
 with the compofition, or folution of tin. Upon 
 this fubftance it produces great brightnefs 
 and folidity, the cochineal from which it is 
 extrafted, being an ingredient eflentially good. 
 But it is far from producing the fame efFeft 
 upon filk, this fubftance abiblutely refufing 
 to take thefe Ihades from cochineal; hitherto 
 at leaft, nothing has been publillied to this 
 effeft. \_Ahout ten or twelve years ago, a "Dyer 
 "produced on velvet a fire colour, as he /aid, dyed 
 with cochineal. All we can learn of their fecret 
 is, that he gave it a flrong rocou ground, and that 
 after wafhing he gave it the cochineal liquor, adding a 
 fmall quantity of the folution of tin'\ Silk when 
 dipped in a cochineal liquor and exalted by 
 the tin compofition, capable of producing on 
 wool the brighteft fire colour, imbibes only a 
 weak onion fliade, tarnifhed and properly 
 Ipeaking a wretched daubing. 
 
 It therefore becomes neceflary to make ufc 
 of another drug, or the flowers of a plant called 
 Carthamus hafiardfaffron or faffranum. 
 
 This flower contains two fort of dyes very 
 diftindl and different from each other both in 
 colour and property. The one is a kind of 
 yellow of an extradive nature, confequently 
 foluble in water; the other a fine ftrong red, 
 much yellower than fcarlet, the natural fhade 
 
 being 
 
3i8 THE ART OF 
 
 being an extreair. lively and agreeable cherry 
 colour. The-fe lafl colouring particles of the 
 Cariharmis being decidedly of a refmous nature, 
 will not diffolve in water only, as we Ihall 
 prefently fee. 
 
 Though the natural fhade of the refinous red 
 of the Cartha?nii5 not being yellow enough, re- 
 quires a yellow ground to imitate the fiery 
 fcarlet of cochineal on wool ; yet the yellow 
 cxtrad is ufelefs, not being fufficiently fine, 
 nor of a proper colour j it is therefore neceffary 
 to begin by feparating the extradlive yellow from 
 the refinous red, which, on account of the 
 different nature of thefe two dyes, is by no 
 means difficult. For this purpofe, it requires 
 only to dilTolve and difcharge the extraflive yel- 
 low by a fufficient quantity of water: what 
 remains afterwards is the refinous red, and 
 muft, in order to render it capable of dying, be 
 difTolved by means of an alkaline fait, as we fhall 
 fee in the following detail: 
 
 Preparation of the Carthamus or Baftard Saffron, 
 
 'Tp' HI S Carthamus J about fifty or lixty pounds 
 -^ at a time, is inclofed in ftrong linen 
 facks and carried to the river, choofing a good 
 bottom, free from (tones. The facks are put 
 into the water, and to prevent them from being 
 carried away, are carefully tied at one end 
 with a cord, which cord is fattened to a flake. 
 A man then gets upon the top of the fack, ta- 
 king a long flick in his hand byway of fupport, 
 and keeps continually treading with his feet. 
 
 ^ If 
 
DYING SILK. 319 
 
 If it be warm weather and no great quantity 
 of the Carthamus to wafh, the operation may 
 be done with naked legs and wooden flioesj but 
 if cold weather and a great quantity to wafh, it 
 will be neceffary to have ftrong leather boots, 
 fufficient to refift the water. 
 
 By this means a great quantity of the yellow 
 is carried off by the water, the man ftill continu- 
 ing to tread the facks till the water is no longer 
 coloured. 
 
 This is a tedious operation, generally requir- 
 ing a man for two days to waili one fack of 
 fixty pounds. 
 
 If it happens that you have good running or 
 well-water within reach, it would fave the 
 trouble of wafhing at the river, and may be 
 done in troughs, as follows: 
 
 Troughs for this purpofe, marked A. Plate VI. 
 fig. I. are made of good planks, commonly 
 fix feet long and three feet and a half broad, 
 that the facks may be put in and removed with 
 cafe. 
 
 When the fack is put in, it is opened at the 
 end, and kept open with a crofs piece of wood, 
 fee B. ibid. fig. 2. or by fome other method. 
 One of the cocks, C, in the J. .^-houfe is let 
 let run into this opening, and as foon as the 
 Jafframim is fufficiently foaked, a man provided 
 with boots, as we have already faid, holding 
 a rope fattened to the ceiling, treads it with 
 his feet till the yellow colour is difcharged from 
 the faffron. See this manoeuvre at D. ibid. 
 
 When the water is very yellow, it is let out 
 by means of a cock or bung hole near the bot- 
 
 tonn 
 
320 T H £ A R T O F 
 
 tom of the trough, which fhould flant fo as 
 to let the water run off more eafily, as may be 
 feen at E. ibid. Fre(h water is then put to it, 
 when it is again preiTed, and the water again 
 let out, and fo continued till the fafFranum is 
 entirely wafhed and no longer colours the water. 
 
 This method of wafliing t\\tjnffranum is much 
 more convenient than the other, and there-^ 
 fore practiced wherever there is a good fpring 
 or well-water within reach, particularly at 
 Lyons, where there is water and dye-houfcs 
 proper for this work. The facks ufed in the 
 wafhing are always dyed a cherry colour; 
 becaufe the extra6tive yellow is diffolved, and 
 with it exudes a fmall portion of the refinous 
 red of th^faffranum. 
 
 When this fubftance is thus freed of its 
 yellow, it is prepared for dying in the following 
 manner: 
 
 It is put into a trough made of deal, fuch as 
 thofe ufed for dying; but as the carthamus is in 
 lumps, thefe lumps are divided and broken 
 with a peftle. When perfeftly feperated it is 
 ftrewed over at different times, and well mixed 
 with pearl or kelp afhes, pounded or fifted— 
 about fix pounds for every hundred of faffranum, 
 as in F. ihid. 
 
 It is then collected in one corner of the trough, 
 prefiing it by fmall parcels with the feet, and 
 throwing it behind to the other end of the 
 trough. See G. ihid. 
 
 The faff'ranum is then put into a long fmall 
 trough, called a grate, becaufe the bottom 
 is formed like a kind of trelis with wooden 
 
 bars 
 
DYING SILK. 321 
 
 bars, about two fingers breadth from each other, 
 which is the breadth of the bar. The infide 
 of this trough is lined with a linen cloth ftretched 
 and filled with laffraniim j this trough is then 
 placed in a larger trough, and cold water thrown 
 over it. This water impregnated with the falts, 
 retains in folution the colouring fubftance of 
 thefafFron, v/hich fritters into the larger trouo-h 
 or receiver. See this apparatus marked H. ibid, 
 fig. I and 2. You continue thus to pour on 
 frefli water, ftirring from time to time till the 
 under trough is full ; the Jaffranum is then car- 
 ried to another trough, more water poured on 
 it till it begins to take no more colour. A little 
 of the alhes is then re- added, and more water 
 till it has ftill lefs colour. This manoeu- 
 vre is continued till th^ Jaffranum is entirely 
 deprived of its red, retaining only the yel- 
 low, when it is ^ood for nothino-. 
 
 Silks intended for poppy or fine fire colour, 
 fhould be previoufly boiled as for white ; they 
 fhould then have a rocou ground three or four 
 degrees under the Ihade called aurora, as explained 
 in the article upon oranges. There is no occafion 
 for aluming, thofe filks being intended only to 
 take the refinous colour. 
 
 When the filks are wafhed, well drained, and 
 the hanks diftributed on the rods, fome lemon 
 juice is added to the liquor, till the colour, 
 wjiich was before a reddilli yellow, becomes a 
 beautiful cherry colour: this is called turning 
 the liquor. The whole is then well llirred, the 
 filks put in and returned till they have taken 
 the colour. 
 
 Y It 
 
322 THEARTOP* 
 
 It is neceflary to obferve that the poppy is 
 the fulleft colour which baftard fafFron is capable 
 of producing^ and that when the filk apparently 
 imbibes no more colour, it is taken out and wrung 
 with the hand over the liquor, drained on the 
 pegs, and plunged into a frefh liquor as (Irong as 
 the firft. This procefs is the fame as the former; 
 it is taken out, wafhed, wrung, and fpread on 
 the rods to dry. When dry it is again dipped 
 in frefh liquor as at firfl, and this is continued 
 in the fame manner, walliing and drying between 
 every frefh liquor till it has acquired the fuU- 
 nefs you defire. It generally requires four or 
 five liquors before it obtains the fire or poppy 
 colour; this however depends on the ftrength 
 of the liquor, and if the faffranum lixivium 
 be weak, it will be neceffary to dip oftenerj 
 but however ftrong it may be, you can 
 hardly produce this colour under three or four 
 liquors. 
 
 The filk having acquired fufficient fulnefs, 
 it mud be finifhed in the following manner: 
 
 Some water being heated till ready to boil, 
 is then put into a trough, and fome lemon juice 
 added j (the quantity about half a pint for every 
 bucket of water) the poppy colours are then 
 returned in this brifkening liquor, which at the 
 fame time ferves for walliing, by which means 
 they become brighter and more gay; they are 
 tlien wrung and dried as ufual. 
 
 The procefs for dark oranges and deep cherry 
 colours is precifely the fame as for poppies, only 
 tJiat it is unneceiTary to give the rocou ground, 
 and that the liquor ufed for the poppy will 
 
 do 
 
DYING SILK. 323 
 
 do for thefe colours till entirely exhaufted. No 
 frefh liquors are made for thefe colours but when 
 you have none of the liquors ufed for poppies 
 ready. 
 
 Light cherry colours, rofe colours of various 
 diades, and flefh colours, require only the 
 fecond or laft liquors that were drained from off 
 the faffron, which are the weakeft; thefe colours 
 are however worked and brightened in the fame 
 manner as the poppies, dipping always the 
 deepeft firll after the poppies. 
 
 Flefh colour is the lightefl of thefe fliades, 
 and'fo extremely delicate that a little of the 
 foap water ufed for boiling the filk is added to 
 the liquor. The foap foftens and prevents the 
 filk from taking the colour too quick and uneven. 
 They are wafhed and then brightened in the 
 fame liquor that had been ufed for the darker 
 colours. 
 
 Thefe liquors require to be immediately 
 worked, and always as quick as poffible, as 
 by keeping they lole their colour, and after a 
 certain time are entirely fpoilt. 
 
 They are always ufed cold; becaufe the 
 faffranum, reddened by the lemon juice, will not 
 bear heat. 
 
 To fave thtfoffranumy it has been the cuflom 
 for fome time paft, for poppies and deep co- 
 lours, to ufe the herb-archil j about five or 
 fix buckets of this archil liquor added to the 
 thirty buckets of the firft or fecond faffron liquor, 
 making about a fifteenth part of the whole. When 
 we come to fpeak of archil, we Ihall give the 
 method of extrafting its colour. 
 
 Y 2 To 
 
524' THEARTOF 
 
 To produce the Jaffranum colours on raw 
 filk, the whiteft is preferable, and is treated 
 exa6lly in the fame manner as the boiled, with 
 this difference only, that the 'poppies, oranges, 
 and cherry colours, in the raw are generally 
 dipped in liquors that were ufed for the fame 
 colours for boiled filk j thefe liquors being 
 Itill fufficiently ftrong for dying raw filk, which, 
 as we have already faid, rifes in colour with 
 lefs difficulty, and even in general requires lefs 
 dye than the boiled. 
 
 Remarks on the dye of CarthamuSj or Bajiard Saffron. 
 
 1X7 HEN the Carthamus is divefted of all its 
 ' ' extrafbive yellow, the refinous red ftill 
 remaining requires a particular folvent : fixed 
 alkaline falts we know by experience are the 
 fittell for this purpofe. A kind of lixivium 
 therefore confifling of kelp or pearl afhes, is 
 the necefTary folvent for reducing the refinous 
 red of Carthamus into a proper folution for dying; 
 but this alkali, at the fame time that it diffolves 
 the refinous red, greatly diminifhes the intenfuy 
 of the colour, giving it a yellow call as we have 
 ittw with regard to the rocou. This incon- 
 venience is however entirely prevented by adding 
 the acid of lemon juice to the liquor, which fe- 
 parating the colouring refinous particles from the 
 alkali, eftablifliesthe colour in its original beauty. 
 The refinous red is in fa6t no longer in a Hate 
 of folution, but is rather a kind of precipitate. 
 This precipitate however is fo fine and fo divided 
 as to be equal to a folution. It mud however 
 be obferved, that when the filk remains in 
 
 this 
 
■ D Y I N G S I L K. 325 
 
 this dye, for any time, it ceafes to imbibe the 
 colour, even though the liquor fhould ftill retain 
 a large quantity; this is doubtlefs occafioned 
 by the avidity with which the filk imbibes the 
 finer particles, the other being too grofs, efpe- 
 cially when the filk is faturated to a certain 
 degree. 
 
 All acids are capable of giving the proper 
 degree of colour to an alkalized Carthamus liquor. 
 Mineral acids are certainly much cheaper than 
 lemon juice; neverthelefs the latter has been 
 always preferred, as evidently producing a better 
 cfFedt. 
 
 The poppy colours are entirely produced 
 without archil; being fufficiently fupplied 
 with the red of Carthamus only, and when in 
 its higheft perfeftion is a colour very bright 
 and beautiful. It will not however bear to be 
 compared with the fine fcarlet of cochineal upon 
 woolens: the aftonifhing brightnefs of the 
 latter muft always make it appear weak and 
 faded. 
 
 Poppy colours refill vinegar; they are much 
 more expenfive, more beautiful, and more 
 permanent than the bad fire colour of Brafil 
 wood, called falfe poppy. They are, for this 
 reafon, confidered by moft of the filk Dyers 
 and manufadurers as a fire colour of the beft 
 dye; but they by no means deferve to be ranked 
 with firm and permanent dyes. Twenty-four 
 hours expofure to the fun and open air is 
 fufficient to degrade the fined of thofe poppies 
 by three or four fhades; and if for fome days 
 days expofed, fcarce a veftige of the colour 
 Y 3 remains 
 
326 T H E A R T O F 
 
 remains. Deep oranges, cherries, and role 
 colours, being lefs charged with the Caribamus 
 red, are ftill fooner degraded and dellroyed by 
 the air. 
 
 The red of Caribamus being of a nature 
 truely refinous, is therefore foluble in fpirit of 
 winej this folvent inftantly difcharges the colour. 
 
 Of tbe Falfe Poppy ^ or Fire colour y produced witb 
 Brqfil wood. 
 
 'TpHE Brafil wood produces a kind of fire 
 -*' colour, called Ratine or falfe poppy j 
 infinitely cheaper, lefs beautiful, and ftill lefs 
 pernnanent than that of the Carthamus or Jaffra- 
 num. 
 
 This colour is produced on boiled filks as for 
 common colours. It Ihould have the rocou 
 ground of a tolerable fhade, ftronger than for 
 the fine poppy, becaufe the red of the Brafil 
 wood is yellower than that of the Jaffranum\ 
 the fhade given by this ground is almoft: a demi- 
 aurora. It is however advifable, as well for 
 the falfe as folid poppy, when a proper ground 
 is obtained, to keep a fkein by way of pattern, 
 which fkein may ferve as a future guide. 
 
 This Ratine, or falfe poppy, is obtained 
 without much difficulty. Having boiled, as 
 before exprefifed, wafhed and given the rocou 
 ground, again wafhed and once or twice beetled 
 at the river, it is then alumed as for all extrac- 
 tive colours, the Brafil being of that number. 
 Afterwards it is cooled at the river, and then 
 drefied as ufual. The Brafil decoclion is then 
 prepared -vyith hot water^ and a little of the 
 
 foap 
 
DYING SILK. 327 
 
 foap water whicli had been kept on pnrpofe, is 
 then added to the liquor, abdut four or five quarts 
 to a trough containing five-and-twenty or thirty 
 pounds of filk. The whole is then flirred and 
 the filk put into it. 
 
 If after a certain number of returns, the co- 
 lour appears ftill faint, a little of the Brafil 
 decoftion is then added. When the colour is 
 even, you leave it to imbibe the dye, returning 
 the filk from time to time till it has acquired the 
 proper fhade. 
 
 When finifhed and waflied at the river, if 
 apparently deficient in red, it may be once 
 beetled J but it is firft necefllary to obferve 
 whether, as is generally the cafe, the water 
 rouzes the red of the Brafil. If it has not 
 this property, inftead of beetling the filk, 
 more of the Brafil decodion fhould be added 
 till it has acquired fufficient colour. 
 
 By this method ratine colours are produced 
 ftill browner, and totally different from the fire 
 colour fiiade. 
 
 In order to brown when the Brafil liquor is ex- 
 haufted, a part of it is thrown away, and another 
 portion of the Brafil decodlion re-added ; after- 
 wards a decoftion of the logwood, which browns 
 more or lefs according to the quantity added. 
 
 Thefe are the truly brown ratine colours, 
 for fome time paft called by the name of mor- 
 dore^ — a name however not applicable, and ap- 
 pertaining to the colour mentioned under the 
 article Aurora. 
 
 Thefe ratine browns, as well as the red browns, 
 
 under the article Falfe Scarlets, ferve to com- 
 
 Y 4 pletQ 
 
328 THEARTOF 
 
 plete the various fhades of the poppies and 
 
 oranges which cannot be obtained from the 
 
 Jcffra-num, 
 
 We have nothing to add to what we have 
 already faid, when fpeaking of fcarlets, with 
 regard to the Brafil liquor. This decodion is 
 neceffary for every colour where the Brafil is 
 ufed, nor is there any difference but in the 
 
 'manner of ufing it. For inftance, the foap 
 added to the Brafil liquor, in order to produce 
 the ratine or falfe poppy, is defigned to render 
 the filk foft and pliant, and to deprive it of 
 the fliffnefs which it would otherwife have 
 without this precaution i the aluming given upon 
 a rocou ground producing this fliffnefs. Some 
 Dyers inftead of the foap, throw in a fmall hand- 
 ful of nutgalls powdered i they fancy that it 
 produces the fame effeft, and even adds to 
 the brightnefs of the colour^ but the greater 
 number prefer foap. 
 
 For the ratine in the raw, you take the whiteft 
 as for yellow i having foaked and given the 
 rocou ground only warm, or even cold, not to 
 ungumthe filkj this colour is afterwards finifhed 
 as boiled filk. 
 
 Falfe Rofe colour. 
 
 TT is by no means the cuftom to make falfe 
 "*■ orange or cherry colours 3 becaufe the colours 
 produced in this manner are too dull and ugly. 
 Falfe rofe colours only are obtained by boiling 
 as for poppies i afterwards aluming, and then 
 dipping in a very light brafil liquor without 
 any other addition 5 but as this colour is very 
 
DYING SILK. 329 
 
 grey, and abfolutcly deficient in brightnefs, it is 
 but feldom ufed. 
 
 To dye this fhade in the raw, it is neceflary as 
 for all delicate colours, to chufe the whiteftj 
 when Ibaked it is dyed in the lame manner as the 
 boiled. 
 
 Of Green, 
 
 'T^HIS colour, compofed of blue and yellow, 
 -*■ is with difficulty produced on filk, becaufe 
 the blue vat is liable to fpot and to give a party 
 colour, an inconvenience more perceptible in 
 green than blue. Greens are produced in the 
 following manner. 
 
 The boiling of the filk for this colour is the 
 fame as for common colours. 
 
 Silk dyers diitinguilh a multitude of green 
 fhades j we fhall however mention only the 
 principal, and of thefe, no more than is necef- 
 fary. 
 
 We fhall firfl fpeak of the fea-green, or l^our- 
 ville-greetij confiding of twenty five or thirty 
 gradations, from the weakeft called pijla- 
 chio green, to the deeped fliade, called terrajfe 
 green. 
 
 To produce thefe greens, after boiling, the 
 filk is drongly alumed j it is then cooled at the 
 river and didributed into hanks of about four 
 or five ounces. This precaution is neceflary 
 for giving the yellow ground to all filk intended 
 for green i becaufe thus didributed in fmaller 
 hanks, the filk is more equally dyed ; which 
 with regard to green is of the greated confe- 
 
 quence 
 
330 THE ART OF 
 
 quence. The weld is then boiled, as in the 
 article upon yellow. 
 
 The weld having boiled, a liquor of it is pre- 
 pared with clean water ftrong enough to give a 
 good lemon ground. The filk fhould be then 
 returned in this liquor with great care; becaufe 
 an uneven ground would be very difcernable in 
 the green. When the ground feems nearly full 
 enough, feme threads of the filks are dipped in 
 the blue vat to try whether the colour of the 
 ground be fufficiently full for the llaade : If not, 
 fome of the weld decodion is added and again 
 tried. When the colour comes good, the filk 
 is cooled at the river, and if you will, once 
 beetled i it is then wrung, and formed into 
 hanks convenient for dipping in the vat. Being 
 dipped Ikein by fkein, as for blues, it is wrung 
 with equal care and quicknefs. 
 
 The fifteen or fixteen lighter {hades of this 
 green, require only to be dipped in the vat to 
 be compleatly finilhed. As to the pijiachio 
 green, if the vat be yet too ftrong, as foon as 
 taken out, it fhould be carfully opened and aired, 
 but not waflied. It is then worked in the hands j 
 that is, held with one hand and ftruck with the 
 other, by which means the filk being difintangled 
 and aired, the colour becomes equally clear. 
 A few threads are then rinced, and if the colour 
 be right the whole is wafiied. 
 
 For the dark lliades, when the weld is exhaufted, 
 a little logwood is added to the liquor. 
 
 For the darkeft fhades it is even neceflary to 
 add fome decoclion of fuftic ,• the filk is- 
 afterwards wafiied and beetled as before, and 
 
 4 then 
 
D Y I N G S I L K. 331 
 
 then dipped in the vat, always remembering to 
 vvafh and dry quickly. 
 
 There are many other lliades, differing from 
 the fea-green, becaufe they have a yellow caft ; 
 they are however produced by the fame ingre- 
 dients; for example the willow green. 
 
 Thefe greens are dipped in a very ftrong weld 
 liquor, and when exhaufted the fuftic or rocou 
 is added to the fame liquor in order to compleat 
 the'fliadej If the colour requires darkening, a 
 little logwood may be added after the fuftic or 
 rocou i they are afterwards dipped in the vat. 
 
 The fecond fhade of green is the meadow or 
 emerald green. Thefe are alumed as for fea 
 greens; after having cooled at the river it is 
 dipped and returned in the weld liquor, which 
 had been previoufly ufed for the fea green. 
 When the colour feems even, fome threads are 
 put into the vat to try the effect of the ground ; 
 if the green be too blue, it is again put into a 
 frefli decodion of the weld. The vat is theri 
 ftirred, and the filk again put in, till by making 
 a frelli eflay on the vat, you find the ground 
 proper to the fliade required. 
 
 The only difference between the meadow and 
 emerald grounds is, that the firft is rather the 
 darkeft. 
 
 In manufadlories where favory is eafily 
 procured, it is ufed for thefe kind of fhades, 
 in preference to the weld, the favory natu- 
 rally yielding more juice than the weld, or 
 rather becaufe the fluff when dry, retains the 
 fame colour which it had taken in the liquor; 
 whilft on the contrary, the colour of the 
 
 weld 
 
332 THE ART OF 
 
 ■weld always grows yellower and redder in the 
 
 drying. 
 
 In cafe of necefTity genejirole may be fubftituted 
 for favory, having the fame effed as the weld, 
 with this difference only, that as it is lefs pro- 
 ductive more of it muft be ufed. Thefe colours 
 fhould be always waflied and dryed as quick as 
 pofiible, as Hiould all greens and blues in 
 general. 
 
 The third Ihade is the duck green, and pro- 
 duced with the weld, favory or genejirole^ by 
 giving a good ground of thefe ingredients, and 
 when the colour is exhaufled it may be darkened 
 by adding feme logwood to the fame liquor s 
 it is afterwards dipped in the vat. 
 
 The oeilet green is produced in the fame 
 manner as the meadow and emerald green, with 
 this difference only, that the gradations or fhades 
 are made by dividing the ground, that is, by 
 giving the ground more or lefs flrength accord- 
 ing to the different fhades, whereas of the 
 emerald and grafs green, there are no grada- 
 tions. 
 
 The duck-wing fhades are darkened by an 
 addition of logwood as in the preceding fhades. 
 
 The celadon, requires much lefs ground than 
 the other fhades becaufe it has a great deal 
 more blue. The darkeft fliades of this colour 
 are produced by the help of logwood. 
 
 Apple green is the precife intermediate fhade 
 between the oeilet and the fca- green and requires 
 the fame procefs. The various green grounds 
 hitherto mentioned, except fea- green, fhould be 
 given in liquors that had been already ufed. 
 
D Y I N G S I L K. 333 
 
 but which contain neither logwood nor fuftic. 
 The old liquors Ihould therefore be carefully 
 preferved. 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 THE efFeds of the weld ^nd genejlrok being 
 as we have already obferved, nearly fimilar, 
 are almoft indifferently ufed, and even fome- 
 times mixed together. With regard to the 
 favory it is certainly preferable for green Ihades, 
 to the other two, except for thofe where it is 
 neceflary to add either logwood, fuftic, or 
 rocou. 
 
 Befides thefe greens, there are a multitude of 
 others all under the denomination of thofe 
 already mentioned. We fhall therefore only 
 remark that for the very dark fhades approaching 
 to black, copperas may be ufed after the other 
 ingredients are exhaufted. For the very clear 
 Ihades of the celadon, and other light greens, 
 the filk Ihould boil twice, as for light blues, 
 thefe light fliades being thereby rendered much 
 more lively and tranfparent. 
 
 Of Olives. 
 
 QlLKS for this colour require only the 
 *^ common boiling. When ftrongly alumcd, 
 .and cooled at the river, they are then dipped in 
 a very ftrong liquor of the weld, in the fame 
 manner as for yellows, adding to this liquor 
 when exhaufted, fome logwood, and when the 
 loQ-wood is exhaufted a little of the lixivium 
 
 o 
 
 of pearl-a(h. This alkali greens the liquor, 
 giving it an olive caft, The filk is again 
 
 dipped 
 
334 THEARTOF 
 
 dipped in this liquor and, when of a proper 
 colour, taken out, wafhed and put on the rods 
 to dry. 
 
 There are two fhades of olive. One the green 
 olive above mentioned, the other is a reddifb 
 and rufty olive. For this fecond fliade having 
 given the weld, fome fuftic and logwood may 
 be added, but without the pearl-afhes. If the 
 colour be too red, the logwood only (hould be 
 added, and alfo without pearl-afli. 
 
 For the clear fhades of thefe colours, you divide 
 or diminifh the logwood; that is, allowing lefs 
 for the cleareil and more for the darkeft fhade. 
 
 Remarks, 
 
 THOUGH the olive be a fpecies of green, 
 it is not however the cuftom to give it the 
 blue vat, becaufe the colour would then be 
 too green. The logwood which naturally gives 
 a violet, by the addition of pearl-alh becomes 
 blue, and this blue when combined with the yel- 
 low of the weld, gives the green neceflary for 
 producing this Ihade. 
 
 Fuftic gives a colour commonly called drab- 
 ohe, becaufe generally made to match with 
 olive in cloth, which has generally more red than 
 the preceding. 
 
 Having alumed as ufual, the filk is then 
 dipped, in a fuftic liquor, with the addition of 
 copperas and logwood. "When this liquor is ex- 
 haufted it is thrown away, and a frefli one made 
 fimilar to the firft, remembering only to redify 
 the quantities of the ingredients. If the colour 
 
 b« 
 
DYING WOOL. 335 
 
 be deficient in fome parts, it is again dipped as 
 at firfl, till the ihade is properly full. Both 
 liquors fhould be of a moderate heat. 
 
 The green dye for raw nik, is in the manner 
 as for boiled -, the whiteft, as for yellows, are 
 thebefl: : having prepared and alumed, the 
 remainder of the procefs is the fame as foi 
 boiled. 
 
 0/ Violet. 
 
 'f/'IOLET is a compofition of red and blue, 
 the blue of all violets is obtained from 
 indigo; the red from cochineal, befides fevcral 
 other ingredients from which it may be ex- 
 tracted. 
 
 When the red is obtained from cochineal, 
 it is a good dye, and is called fine violet, 
 but if from any other drug, particularly archil, 
 the colour has but little folidity and is called 
 falfe violet. 
 
 Of fine Violet or Violet in grain, 
 
 JpOR this colour the common boiling is ufed; 
 ■*^ the filk is then alumed as for fine fcarlet, 
 and when wafhed at the river fliouJd be twice 
 beetled. 
 
 The filk thus prepared, is cochinealed as for 
 for crimfon, with this difi^erence however, that 
 neither tartar nor compofition is added to the 
 liquor; thefc acids being ufed in crimfon only to 
 exalt the colour of the cochineal, by giving it a 
 yellow caft. For violet, on the contrar>^, the 
 natural colour of the cochineal is befl, having 
 agreat deal more of the violet, more purple and 
 
 more 
 
336 THEARTOF 
 
 more of the gilly-flower colour, and therefore 
 more or kfs of the cochineal is required, accord- 
 ing to the intenfity of the fhadc. The common 
 quantity is two ounces for every pound of filk 
 
 In making the cochineal liquor, the copper 
 defigned for it fhould be half filled with water, 
 in which the cochineal fhould boil for about a 
 quarter of an hour. Mean while the filk is 
 pafled on the rods in fmall hanks, the fame as 
 for giving the ground for greens i the copper is 
 then filled with cold water becaufe the liquor 
 fhould be but juft warm: the fjlk is then re- 
 turned in the liquor with care and great accuracy, 
 and if twenty rods or more, it will be neceffary 
 to keep two men in returning the filk, that the 
 colour may be more perfedl and more equally 
 imbibed. 
 
 As foon as the filk appears fufficiently even, 
 the fire fhould be flirred to make the liquor boil, 
 and then one man is fufficient to return, which 
 fhould be continued with accuracy to the end of 
 the liquor, which generally lafhs about two 
 hours, as for fine crimfons. 
 
 If after two hours boiling it appears that the 
 liquor is not yet fufficiently exhaufted, the 
 filk mjay be put into an alkali during five or fix 
 hours, as before directed when fpeaking of 
 crimfons; the filk is afterwards wafhed at the 
 river and twice beetled; it is then dreffed 
 and dipped in the vat, more or lefs ftrong, in 
 proportion to the fhade of the violet colour 
 required. 
 
 Wartiing and drying are ufually done in the fame 
 manner as for blues and greens, and in general for 
 all colours dipped in the vat. 
 
 Thf 
 
DYING SILK. 337 
 
 The Dyers are accuftomed to ufe a little archil 
 iin the produdion of thefe fliades, in order to 
 give them (Irength and beauty. It is added to 
 the cochineal liquor, after it is exhaufted, what 
 quantity you think proper, according to the 
 Ihade required. Having boiled for about a 
 quarter of an hour, it fhould be then fufFered. 
 to ftand till the archil finks to the bottonn, and 
 then the filks are returned in the liquor. 
 
 This method is however blameable, becaufe 
 the colour procured from the archil is a falfe 
 dye, and Ihould not therefore be ranked with a 
 fine colour and good dye, fuch as the violet of 
 pure cochineal. 
 
 The cuflom of uniting archil with the cochi- 
 neal in the production of fine violets has crepe 
 in by degrees, becaufe the red of the cochineal 
 in thefe colours is much lefs beautiful to the 
 eye ; or rather becaufe the merchants and manu- 
 fafturers of filk fluffs, giving the preference to 
 brightnefs and beauty, the dyers are partial to 
 this manoeuvre ; befides the archil being much 
 cheaper than the cochineal, many dyers infen- 
 fibly increafe the quantity of this falfe ingredient, 
 proportionably diminifhing the cochineal, in fuch 
 a manner that their pretended fine violets, and 
 fold as fuch, are really no more than a fpecies of 
 falfe violet. This is become a fhameful abufe, and 
 certainly ought to be difcouraged. Neverthelefs 
 the admiflion of archil feems indifpenfably necef- 
 fary in weak fhades, efpecially light violets, as the 
 colour imparted by the cochineal is infupporta- 
 bly tarnifhed and dull. They are therefore under 
 the neceflity of producing light fliades with ar- 
 
 Z chil 
 
33? THEARTOF 
 
 chll, which always imparts a very beautiful 
 though a very perifliable colour. 
 
 It has been already oblerved in the article on 
 blue, that it is impofiible to produce the darkeft 
 of thefe Ihades by the help of indigo alone, and 
 therefore that it is neceflary to join it with fome 
 dark red j this red may be extracted from the 
 cochineal, and the dark blues darkened by this 
 ingredient are termed f.ne hlues^ to diftinguifh 
 them from the blue darkened with archil, a 
 drug of falfe tinft : thefe dark blues are evi- 
 dently rather a fpecies of violet. 
 
 The fine blue is alumed in the fame man- 
 lier as the fine violet, in like manner wafhed at 
 the river, twice beetled, afterwards allumed, 
 and the quantity of the cochineal is one ounce, 
 or an ounce and a half, in proportion to the fliade 
 required ; remembring to divide the filk into 
 fmall hanks as for violet : they are then 
 walbed and twice beetled i after which they re- 
 quire nothing more than to be dipped in a frefb 
 vat. 
 
 Of fcdje and common Violets or Lilac, 
 
 T?ALSE violets are procured in various ways 
 **- and from different kinds of ingredients, of 
 which in their proper order. 
 
 The finefl: and moft in ufe are procured from 
 archil. This ingredient is of the mofs and lichen 
 kind, an herb, in its natural ftate, imparting no 
 colour to water. It is therefore neceflary, in 
 order to render it of any ufe, to open and 
 dilTolve its colouring principle by means of 
 digeftion and a kind of fermentation, afTifled 
 
 by 
 
DYING SILK. 3^9 
 
 by a mixture of urine and lime. The method 
 of preparing archil for dying is very clearly 
 and exactly related by M. Hellot in the foregoing 
 treatife on dying wool. The colouring particles 
 of this drug feem of a refinous nature, not dif- 
 folving in water, but through the medium of an 
 alkali ; therefore fubftances to be dyed with 
 archil require no aluming. The following is 
 the procefs for dying with this ingredient. 
 
 A copper is boiled with a quantity of the ar- 
 chil in proportion to the colour required ; a full 
 and dark violet requires a larger quantity, 
 fometimes two, three, or even four times the 
 weight of the filk, according to the goodnefs of 
 the archil and the fulnefs of the colour. 
 
 During the preparation of the archil liquor, 
 the filk is taken out of the foap, cleanfed and 
 afterwards drained and drefTed by hanks as for fine 
 violet. The hot archil liquor is then taken off 
 clear, leaving the grounds at the bottom, carried 
 and put into a trough of a convenient fize in which 
 the filk is returned with the greateft accuray. 
 
 When the colour is come to, you make a tryal 
 of the vat, to try if it be fufficiently full for a 
 very dark violeti if too light, it is again dipped in 
 the archil liquor, adding frefh archil if necefiTary; 
 when it is of a proper colour it is twice beetled 
 at the river, and then dipped in the vat as for fine 
 violets. 
 
 The wafhing and drying of this colour is the 
 fame as for all colours dipped in the vat. The 
 different fhades of violets are diftinguifhed 
 by different names : thofe above defcribed 
 
 Z 2 -are 
 
340 THE ART OF 
 
 are called violei of Holland. And are the fullefl, 
 
 the richeft, and mod beautiful colours. 
 
 The hijhofs violet which is the lecond fhade, 
 has alfo a full ground ; but lefs of the vat, by 
 which it preferves a redder caft. 
 
 As giving the blue in lilac requires great 
 management, and that the vats are generally too 
 ftrong, it is the cuftom in order to be matter of 
 thefe fhades, to mix a little of the new vat with 
 fome pearl-afh in clean water, to prepare a liquor 
 on purpofe, by which the lilacs may be blued or 
 reddened at pleafure. For this purpofe it is 
 neceflary to take a new vat in all its vigour, be- 
 caufe thofe which have been already worked and 
 tired give no more, even though a quantity be 
 added, than a greyifh colour, and that not 
 permanent. 
 
 When the vat is added to this liquor, and 
 immediately raked, the mixture becomes of a 
 green colour, which diminifhes infenfibly. The 
 filks are not dipped till the liquor begins to lofc 
 a little of this previous green, and inclines to 
 the colour of indigo, becaufe if dipped before, 
 they would be expofed to take an uneven 
 colour J for when this liquor is in all its green, 
 confequently in all its vigour, the firft portion of 
 the filk dipped in it, feizes the colour with 
 avidity, by which means the liquor is fo much 
 exhaufted of its green, that the filks afterwards 
 dipped, have a vat incapable of giving a 
 ftrong blue. 
 
 The pearl-alh added to this liquor, helps in 
 blueing the archil, becaufe the general efFed: of 
 all alkalies is to render all reds violet. It is 
 
 not 
 
DYING SILK. 34r 
 
 not therefore added to the archil liquor, be- 
 caufe in boiling together it would injure 
 and in part deftroy the effeft of the colour. We 
 have already prefcribed a warm liquor for red- 
 dening and blueing, as water too hot would be 
 alone fufficient to weaken the archil ground, 
 and with more reafon would produce this effeft 
 when aided by an alkali ; but in cafe of neceflity 
 warm water may be ufed for this operation, 
 
 Thefe colours, when finifhed, are wruns: 
 over the liquor, and afterwards on the peg, 
 but without wafhing, becaufe the greater part 
 of the blue would be loft in the wafhing. The 
 filk is afterwards put to dry in a covered place, 
 the a6lion of the air being alone fufficient to 
 change them confiderably j particularly the 
 violets and lilacs of archil, efpecially when 
 made of the beft kind, growing in the Canaries, 
 called herb-archil, which, though more beau- 
 tiful, is at the fame time the leaft permanent 
 of all the various colours in dying. Acids 
 deftroy them, and they fo quickly fade, that to 
 keep filks of this colour, if you would preferve 
 them frefti, it is neceflary to keep them as much 
 as poflible from the air. 
 
 Of the Violet of Logwood. 
 
 'TpO dye violet with logwood, the filk Ihould 
 -*- be boiled, alumed, and waftied as ufual. 
 The logwood is cut into chips, and boiled 
 in water as already defcribed with regard to the 
 Brafil wood. The decotlion when made is put 
 into a barrel to be ready upon occafion. 
 
 Z t When 
 
343 THEARTOF 
 
 When ufed for dying, it is put into a trough 
 with a quantity of cold water, in proportion 
 to the quantity of filks to be dyed; to which is 
 added and well mixed fome of the deco6lion 
 of the logwood, more or lefs according to the 
 Ihade required; the filks are returned in thi« 
 cold liquor till they have obtained the colour 
 you would have. This liquor gives a lefs beau- 
 tiful fhade than the archil, and a little dull. 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 THE natural colour of the logwood or cam- 
 peachcy is a very brown red. The higheft co- 
 loured, the foundeft, and the lead loaded with 
 fap, is the beft. It makes a dark brown-red 
 decodlion. 
 
 The filk for this dye fhould be alumed, without 
 which it would be only daubed with a reddifh 
 colour, and would not even bear wafhing, the 
 dye of this wood being of an extractive nature. 
 
 But when alumed, the filk in this dye takes 
 a tolerable good violet, a little lefs durable than 
 that of the archil ; but will in. fome degree (land 
 the foap, which gives it a blue caft. 
 
 This dye fliould be ufed cold ; for when hot 
 it gives a rough colour, very uneven, more 
 tarnifhed, and lefs beautiful. 
 
 For this feafon the decoction fliould be made 
 two or three days before it is wanted. It is how- 
 ever neceffary to obferve, that the logwood 
 decodlion will not keep fo long as that of the 
 Brafil wood, as it changes by time, taking a 
 fawn, tinge, which fpoils it, and therefore no 
 more of \t Ihould be made than may be wanted 
 ip the courfe of three weeks or a month, 
 
 Viola 
 
DYING SILK. 343 
 
 Violet of Logwood and Verdicts. 
 
 A Violet may alfo be obtained from logwood 
 and verdigris, as follows: 
 
 The filk is wafhed from the foap, and drained 
 on the peg, &c. You then difiblve, in cold water, 
 about one ounce of verdigris, for every pound of 
 filkj when it is well mixed in the water, the 
 "filk is immerfed, and may remain in this liquor 
 for an hour, or till it is well impregnated 
 wich the verdigris. This gives no perceptible 
 colour. The filk is after this wrung, and again 
 put on the rods. A logwood liquor is then 
 made, as for the preceding violet ; the filk is 
 dipped in it, and takes a blue colour fufficiently 
 dark. 
 
 The filk is then taken out, and when dipped in 
 a clear folution of alum, made either with the 
 liquor or clean water, acquires a red that on the 
 previous blue produces violet. 
 
 The quantity of alum thus added is undeter- 
 mined ; but the more alum the redder the violet. 
 The filk having acquired the colour you wifli, is 
 wrung over the liquor, wafhed, and again mode- 
 rately wrung on the peg, that the colour may re- 
 main even in the drying, which when wrung hard 
 is not the cafej for then the part mod fqueezed is 
 lighter than the other parts, which arc dark 
 and coppery 3 an inconvenience to which log- 
 wood colours are moft liable. Violets with 
 logwood only, without verdigris, require the 
 fame atten,tion. 
 
 Thefe logwood violets, with verdigris, have 
 
 neither more beauty nor more folidicy than 
 
 Z 4 violets 
 
344 THEARTOF 
 
 violets without this ingredient. We mufl: 
 however obferve, that the verdigris with which 
 the filk is impregnated, ferves as an aluming 
 preparation towards receiving the logwood dyej 
 befides, this colour being abfolutely blue, the 
 alum afterwards added ferves only to give that 
 rednefs peculiar to violet. Hence it is evident 
 that a colour truly blue may be obtained from 
 verdigris and logwood j this however is a very 
 falfe colour, and by no means comparable to 
 the blue of the vat, either in beauty or folidity. 
 
 Violets of Brafil wood and Logwood, 
 
 QILK for thefe violets muft be alumed and 
 ^ cooled as ufual ; it is then dipped in a 
 liquor of the Brafil wood of the common heat; 
 when it has imbibed this liquor, a decoftion 
 of logwood is added, and the colour being 
 properly full, is then changed by adding fome 
 lixivium of pearl-afh; it is afterwards wafhed, 
 wrung, and dried as ufual. 
 
 Remarks, 
 
 THE violet produced by the Brafil and 
 logwood, is much redder and more beautiful 
 than that obtained from the logwood only, 
 though not moredurablci it is even more ealily 
 injured by foap. 
 
 Though this violet is produced by two ingre- 
 dients, it is neverthelefs neceffary to ufe them 
 one after another; becaufe if mixed, the colour 
 would be uneven. 
 
 Neither is it a matter of indifference which 
 of thofe liquors fliould be firft applied. Begin 
 
 therefore 
 
DYING SILK. 345 
 
 therefore with the Brafil, remembring our 
 former obfervation, that the filk when impreg- 
 nated with the logwood dye, talves the Brafil 
 with more difficulty, probably proceeding from 
 the avidity with which the logwood feifes the 
 alum, not leaving fufficient for the Brafil. It 
 is befides necefiary, if you begin with the log- 
 v/ood, to give it cold, becaufe of its inequality 
 when hot. The combination of thefe two woods 
 only, produces a violet; neverthelefs you add 
 to its brightnefs by the pearl-afli, which 
 greatly enlivens the colour, making it more 
 purple. 
 
 Inftead however of adding the pearl-afh, 
 it is fometimes more advifable to make a clear 
 liquor for this change. This praflice Ihould be 
 more efpecially obferved when particular fhades 
 are to be matched, efpecially when you are ap- 
 prehenfive that the filk is overcharged by remain- 
 ing too long in the dye. 
 
 It is generally thought fufficient only to wafli 
 thefe fhades at the river without beating; it 
 may however be necefiary to beetle when wafh- 
 ing, particularly if the colour appears dark or 
 dull, as by this means all impurities are carried 
 off and the colour brightened. 
 
 Violets from Brafil wood and ArchiL 
 
 Tj^OR this violet, as for the preceding, hav- 
 -*■ ing boiled and alumed the filk, it is 
 dipped in a clear liquor of Brafil wood, or in 
 a liquor that had been ufed for reds ; it is then 
 beetled at the river and dipped in the archil to 
 ^11 the colour. It is afterwards wafhed a fecond 
 
 time 
 
346 THEARTOF 
 
 time and again beetled. After this it is dipped 
 in the vat, wrung, and dried with the fame ac- 
 curacy as greens and blues. 
 
 This laft refembles the fine Holland violet, 
 made with the archil and the vat only. The 
 Brafil previouOy given helps to fave the archil; 
 but as thefe violets are always inferior to the 
 Holland, this procefs is never praftifed except 
 for the darker fhades, which can be obtained 
 by no other means. The dye of the Brafil 
 begins to give the filk a ftrong ground; never- 
 thelefs it is no impediment to the effed of the 
 archil afterwards. 
 
 Thefe violets are prevented from having the 
 brightnefs and beauty of the Hollands by the 
 aluming neceffarily required for extracting the 
 Brafil, the alum hence acquiring the property 
 of making the archil rufty, or of giving it a 
 yellow caft unfavourable to this colour. 
 
 To dye violets in the rav;^, the filk fliould be 
 as white as for yellow. When dipped the pro- 
 cefs is the fame as for boiled filk, each according 
 to the fhade required. The fine violet is not 
 ufually pradlifed on the raw. 
 
 Of Purple J Gillyflower J and of fine Cochineal or 
 Purple. 
 
 •^ t HE filk for thefe coloyrs is boiled as ufual, 
 •*■ and alumed as for fine violets : the cochi- 
 nealing alfo in the fame manner: — the common 
 quantity of cochineal, is two ounces, more or lefs 
 according to the Ihade required. The filk 
 having boiled for two hours in the cochineal 
 liquor, is taken out, waflied, and beetled at 
 the river. If a purple violet inclining to blue, 
 
 is 
 
D Y I N G S 1 L K. 347 
 
 18 wanted, it requires only to be dipped in a weak 
 vat- In this cafe, as we have before obferved, it is 
 neceflary to wringand dry with all poITible expedi- 
 tion, this precaution being abfolutely necelTary 
 for all colours dipped in the vat ; there is however 
 no necefllty for dipping in the vat, except for 
 purples and thedarker fhades, the others requiring 
 only to be dipped in cold water with a little of the 
 liquor of the vat, as they always acquire too niuch 
 blue when dipped in the vat, though ever fo much 
 exhaufted. 
 
 To afTift the turning of thefe colours, a little 
 arfenic may be added to the cochineal liquor, 
 about half an ounce to every pound of filk. 
 The light fhades are done in the fame manner, 
 remembring to put lefs cochineal; the fhades 
 under purple are thofe called gillyflower and 
 grijdelin\ thofe under ^r//'"^c'//;2 are called peach- 
 blollbm. The gillyflower requires no turnings 
 nor even the other fliades if not too red, in 
 which cafe they may be turned with a little of 
 the liquor of the vat. 
 
 Of Falfe Purple, 
 
 'T^HESE falfe purples are alumed as for the 
 -*• common Brafil colours ; when given a 
 flight Brafil liquor, the filk is once beetled at 
 the river, and afterwards dipped in the archil 
 liquor, ftronger or weaker according to the 
 ihade. The Brafil given before the archil is 
 neceflTary, becaufe the colour of the archil alone 
 would be too violet. 
 
 For browning the dark fhades, logwood is 
 ufed, either in the Brafil liquor if required very 
 tl^rk, or if not quite fo dark, in the archil. 
 
 The 
 
348 THEARTOF 
 
 The lighteft of thofe (hades may be produced 
 with Brafil only, and afterwards turned with 
 clean water with the addition of fome pearl- 
 afhj but as this method rather hardens the 
 filk, it were more advifeable to give them a 
 little of the archil liquor after the Brafil; 
 neverthelefs if the colour be too violet it may 
 be reddened with a little clean water and a little 
 vinegar, or lemon juice. 
 
 The falfe gillyflower may be produced by the 
 archil only, omitting the previous dye' of the 
 brafil, as for purples, and therefore there is 
 no neceffity for aluming. If not violet enough 
 you give it a little pearl-afh; the light ihades 
 are produced in the fame manner, only with 
 weaker liquors. 
 
 Fine purples, or fine gillyflowers, are not 
 cufliomary in the raw; but with regard to falfc 
 Ihades the filk fliould be of the whiteft, as for 
 common colours. After foaking it Ihould be 
 treated as boiled filks. 
 
 Of Marones, Cinnamons j end Wine Lees. 
 
 'T^HESE colours are obtained from logwood, 
 ■*' brafil, and fufiic. 
 
 For cinnamon colours the filk is boiled as 
 ufual, then alumed, and then a decoflion of 
 thefe three woods made feparately. Tne fuftic 
 decoftion makes the bafe of the liquor, to which 
 is added about a quarter of the Brafil decoftion, 
 and about an eighteenth of the decoflion of 
 logwood. 
 
 This liquor fliould be of a temperate heat; 
 the filk is then returned, and when the liquor 
 
 isi 
 
D Y I N G S I L K. 349 
 
 Is exliaufted and the colour equal, it Is wrung 
 in the hand; it is then put on the rods and a 
 fecond liquor made, in which thefe three colour- 
 ing ingredients are proportioned according to 
 their efFefts in producing the fhade required. 
 Fuftic evidently gives the yellow j brafil the red, 
 and logwood the darker fnades, of which thefe 
 colours are coinpofed. 
 
 Marones are produced in the fame manner 
 precifely, except that thefe latter fhades being 
 darker and lefs red, the logwood fhould pre- 
 dominate over the Brafil, remembring always 
 to keep a juft proportion of the fuftic, which 
 gives the ground to each of thefe colours. 
 
 The plumb juicey wine leesy &c. fhould be 
 done in the fame manner and with the fame in- 
 gredients, altering only the proportion as occa^ 
 fion requires. 
 
 Remarks, 
 
 THE fuftic deco6tion fhould be made as 
 it is wanted only, becaufe it very foon changes 
 and fpoils, becoming flimy, tarnifhed, getting 
 an olive caft, and no longer producing the de- 
 fired eftefl. This decoction, however, though 
 thus changed, may be almoft entirely reftored 
 by re-heating, and then may do well enough 
 for thefe colours. 
 
 Many Dyers wafti the filk, out of the alum- 
 ing, at the river before it is dipped, and then 
 by one liquor produce thefe feveral colours; 
 but the following method feems better; becaufe 
 the firft liquor being a fufliclent wafti, and the 
 filk retaining more of the alum takes the dye 
 
 better 
 
350 THE ART or 
 
 better. Befides as it is impoflible to pfodirce 
 thefe ihades but by perpetual handling, the 
 fecond liquor may be ufeful in reclifying the 
 defeds of the firft, and in finilhing the colour, 
 efpecially the fuftic ground, which requires the 
 alum to aflift it in roufmg fufficiently. 
 
 The marones and cinnamons may be obtained 
 by a different method. When the filk is boiled, 
 the grounds of the rocou fliould be again dif- 
 folved in the fame foap which had been ufed for 
 the boiling, by ftraining it, as before defcribed, 
 through the rocou-pot; and when boiled for 
 about a quarter of an hour, it fliould be lefc 
 to fettle J the filk is then returned in this liquor 
 without having been wafhed, which gives it a 
 yellow ground. It is afterwards wafhed and 
 beetled at the river, and then alumed as ufual. 
 After this, the fuftic, Brafil, and logwood liquors 
 are given for the cinnamon j but for the marone, 
 the Brafil is omitted unlefs they feem to want 
 red, remembring that the aluming confiderably 
 reddens the rocou. If they are too red, though 
 "without the Brafil, a little of the folution of 
 copperas added to the liquor will check the red, 
 give it a greenifh colour, and at the fame time 
 darken it fufHciently, particularly if it has had 
 any quantity of the logwood; it is therefore ne- 
 cefTary to be fparing of the logwood, that you 
 may be able, by means of the copperas, to 
 correft the too great rednefs of the rocou. 
 
 This methpd may be more advantageous than 
 the firil, confidering that the rocou, reddened 
 with alum, is much more folid than the red of 
 
 Brafil 
 
D Y I N G S I L K. 351 
 
 Brafil. A little, rocou however may be added 
 without foapp as for ratines. 
 
 For marones and other browns in the' raw, 
 the filk may be ufed in its qatural colour, 
 becaufe the yellow is no way prejudicial to thefe 
 fhadcs; on the contrary, it may anfwer the purpofe 
 of a ground. Having dipped as ufual, the 
 procefs is the fame as for boiled filk, each ac- 
 cording to its fliade. 
 
 OfNut-Creys, Thorn-Grey Sy Black and Iron-Greys, 
 
 and others of thefarae/pecies. 
 
 ALL thefe colours, except black-grey, ara 
 produced without aluming. The filk 
 being wafhed from the foap and drained on the 
 peg, a liquor is made of fufiic, logwood, ar- 
 chil, and copperas. Fuftic gives the ground; ' 
 archil the red J logwood darkens j and the cop- 
 peras foftens all thefe colours, turns them grey, 
 and at the fame time ferves indead of alum in 
 extradling thefe feveral colours. As there is 
 an infinite variety of greys without any pofitive 
 names, and produced by the fame methods, 
 it would be endlefs to enter into a detail that 
 would prolong this treatife to fo little purpofe. 
 
 Suffice it to rem.ark here, that in producing 
 a reddifh grey the archil Ihould predominate ; 
 for thofe more grey, the logwood; and for 
 thofe (till more rufty and rather greenifh, fufiic. 
 
 In general, when obliged to complete the 
 colour with logwood, it fliould be ufed rather 
 iparingly, becaufe it is apt in drying to darken 
 too much, differing in this particular from all 
 gther colours. 
 
 To 
 
352 THEART'OF 
 
 To give an example of the manner of pro- 
 ducing thefe colours we fiiall take the nut- 
 
 The fuftic deco6lion, archil and a little logwood 
 is put into water modrately hot. The filk is 
 then returned, and when the liquor is ex- 
 haufted it is taken out, and to foften the colour 
 the copperas folution is added. Son-:e dyers 
 for this purpofe add the black waili inftead of the 
 copperas; the filk is again returned, and if the 
 colour does not appear fufficiently even, fom^ 
 red fpots Hill remaining, it may be concluded 
 that it requires a little more copperas. 
 
 It muft alfo be remembered, that as copperas 
 is the general bafe of all greys, if deficient in 
 quantity, the colour will be apt to change in drying, 
 and to become rough and uneven. 
 
 To try if the colour be fufficiently foftened, 
 it fhould be examined, and if it wetseafily, after 
 having been wrung on the peg it wants copperas, 
 but if on the contrary it foaks with a little 
 difficulty, the colour is enough foftened. 
 
 On the other hand, too much copperas (lifFens 
 the filk confiderably, making it harffi, and even 
 depriving it of a great part of its luftre. To 
 remedy this, the filk when taken out of the 
 liquor fhould be wrung on the peg, and then 
 immediately wafhed at the river, which carries 
 off the fuperfluous copperas. 
 
 The black greys, becaufe alumed and welded, 
 make a feparate clafs. When the filk is alumed 
 and cooled at the river, and the weld liquor 
 prepared as for yellows, the filk is returned, and 
 when the liquor is exhaufted a part of it is thrown 
 
 away 
 
D Y I N G S I L K. 353 
 
 away> and the logwood deco6tion fubftituted in 
 its place. The filk is again returned in this 
 liquor, and when the logwood is exhaufted, fome 
 copperas may be added in a fufficient quantity to 
 blacken the colour. The filk is then wafhed, 
 Wrungj and finilhed as ufual. 
 
 For iron grey, it is neceflfary to boil the fame 
 as for blues, this colour is much more beautiful 
 when laid on a very white ground. It is more 
 ufed in the manufafluring of ftockings than any 
 other colour, therefore generally wrought in 
 Ihades j that is many different fhades made at the 
 the fame time. 
 
 When the filk is wafhed and prepared as ufual, 
 you make the liquor of river or well water> 
 no matter which j but either muft be cold. 
 
 If river water, the logwood deco6lion made 
 with river water is added, fufficient to produce 
 the dark ihade required; the filk is then dipped 
 and when finifhed, it is wrung and hung up. 
 A part of the liquor is then thrown away and re- 
 plenifhed with water for the following fhades, and 
 fo on to the lighteil, carefully dividing; that is, 
 preferving an equal diftance between the Ihades. 
 
 When all is finifhed with the logwood, the 
 dark Ihades are put again on the rods, to be 
 dipped in a new liquor with the addition of 
 copperas ; the remaining lighter fhades are then 
 dipped in the fame liquor, but without the 
 copperas addition: if however the fecond fhade 
 is not enough fofcened, a little copperas muft be 
 added. This defe(5t is eafily perceived in the 
 dipping, as we have before obfervcd. 
 
 When arrived at the lighteft Ihades, care fhould 
 
 be taken that the liquor be not overcharged with 
 
 A a copperas 
 
354 THE ART OF 
 
 copperas, which is eafily perceived by its having 
 a rcddifh caft, in which cafe fome of the liquor 
 lliould be thrown away, and replenilhing with 
 water, too much copperas producing the fame 
 effeft with regard to thcfe fhades as the pre- 
 cedino;. 
 
 When the liquor is made with well-water, 
 the logwood deco6tion Pnould alfo be made of 
 of \yell-water. This being added to the liquor, 
 the darkeft fhades are firft dipped as in the pre- 
 ccceding procefs. When the filk has fufficiently 
 drawn it is taken out, and the following fliades 
 are then dipped, but without replenifhing, the 
 colour being much better and clearer without the 
 river water. 
 
 When all the fhades are compleat, you foften 
 with copperas, in the fame manner as above 
 defcribed i the filk is afterwards waflied, and if 
 neceflary beetled. 
 
 To difcharge greys, as well as marones and 
 cinnamon, &:c. that is when the fliades are too 
 dark and too full, you put fome tartar pounded 
 in a mortar and fifted into a bucket or fmall 
 trough; you then pour over it fome boiling 
 water. The cleared of this liquor is afterwards 
 put in a trough, and the filks returned in it, 
 by which operation, a part of the colour is 
 immediately difcharged. 
 
 If the filk does not inftantly take an equal 
 colour, a little more tartar muft be added, as 
 above mentioned. 
 
 The filk thus difcharged of its fuperf^uous 
 colour is once beetled at the river, and after- 
 wards dipped in hoc water, without any other 
 
 addition 
 
bYlNG SILK. 355 
 
 iaddition. This laft operation reftores in part 
 what it had loft by the tartar; but to try the 
 colour it fhould be wrung on the peg. 
 
 The tartar always deftroying fome part of this 
 colour, it fhould be reftored with a frefh liquor 
 made for the purpofe^ and then foftened with 
 copperas as ufual. 
 
 If the filk has been alumed then the hot 
 Nvater may be omitted after the beetling; 
 the hot water is however always of ufe in 
 removing the harflinefs occafioned by the 
 tartar. 
 
 To difcharge iron greys, when too dark, they 
 fhould be fulphured, afterwards beetled at the 
 river, and then again dipped in a frefh liquor 
 fimilar to the firft. 
 
 This method of difcharging iron greys is pre- 
 ferable to either tartar or lemon juice, thefe 
 ingredients giving them a ground that does not 
 cafily yield even to the boiling with foap, which 
 confequently fpoils the colour; whereas the 
 fulphuring almoft intirely v/hitens the filk by 
 totally deftroying the logwood. 
 
 For greys in the raw, the filk fhould be as 
 white as for common colours, except the black 
 grey, for which the natural yellow would be 
 no difadvantage. Having foaktd the raw filk 
 the procefs is then the fame for producing thefe 
 fhades, as on boiled filk. 
 
 A a 2 Of 
 
356 THE ART OF 
 
 Of Black, 
 
 BLACK is rather adifficult dye on filk : we have 
 at lead reafon to think fo, confidering the 
 numberlefs experiments and enquiries that have 
 been found neceffary in the attainn^ent of a 
 eood blacks and if v^e may judge frorn the 
 multitude of ingredients that are admitted into 
 the compofition of this colour. , , ^ , 
 
 The bafe or foundation of the black dye, is 
 generally compofed of ingredients commonly 
 ufed in making of ink, "Siz. iron diffolved by acids 
 and precipitated by a vegetable aftringent. 
 
 Different manufadories have different methods 
 of producing this colour, though all agree in 
 nearly the fame bafe or foundation. We ftiaU 
 however defcribe the procefs, as pradifed m 
 xnanv refpeftable dye-houfes, and in which wc 
 Zfelves^ave been very fuccefsful, notwith- 
 ftanding its many apparently fuperfluous ingrc- 
 
 dients. . ^ • ^_ . 
 
 Twentv quarts of ftrong vinegar are put into a 
 trough with one pound of black nutgalls pounded 
 and fifted, and five pounds of frefh iron filings 
 While the infufion is making, you clean out the 
 copper in which you put the black ground, with 
 the following drugs pounded. 
 
 Viz. 
 
 8 fe of black natgdh 
 8 — of Cummia 
 
 ^ of Sumach 
 
 12 __ of Poragranate rind 
 ^ — of bitKt apple 
 
 3 ft of Agaric 
 
 2 of C(jf//^ de Levtva 
 
 lo — of Buckthora 
 6 — of liafecd 
 
 The 
 
D Y I N G S I L K. 357 
 
 Thefe feveial drugs are put into a copper, 
 containing half the'quantity of the veflel ufed for 
 the black ground, and filled with water. Twenty 
 pounds of Campeachy or logwood chips are after- 
 wards inclofed in a linen bag, for the conveniency 
 of taking them out of the liquor, unlefs you. 
 chufe to take them out with a pierced ladle, 
 or any other means, becaufe thefe mufl boil a 
 fecond time as well as the other drugs 
 
 When the logv/ood has boiled for about a 
 quarter of an hour, it is then taken out and 
 properly prefcrved. The above mentioned drugs 
 are then put into the logwood decodion, and 
 alfo boiled for about a quarter of an hour, care- 
 fully checking with cold water as often as it feems 
 ready to boil over. 
 
 This operation being finilhed, the liquor is 
 drained through a linen drainer into a trough, 
 and then left to fettle, carefully preferving the 
 grounds which mufl: be again boiled. 
 
 The cold infufion of the vinegar with the 
 nutgalls and iron filings is then put into the 
 copper, intended for the black ground. The fire is 
 afterwards put under it, and the foUowino- 
 ingredients immediately added. 
 
 Viz. 
 
 20 lb of Gum Arabic pounded 
 3 — of PvCalgar or red arfenic 
 
 — of Sal-ammoniac 
 
 — of Sal. gem. 
 
 — of Mineral cryftal 
 
 — of White arfenic pounded 
 T— of Corrofive fubliajate 
 
 2 }fe of green copperas 
 2 — ofthe(kumofSugarCap,dj 
 10 — of Powder Sugar 
 
 4 — of Litharge pounded 
 
 5 — of Antimony 
 2 — of Orpimcnt 
 
 z — of Plumba 
 
 go 
 
 Aa3 
 
 Thefa 
 
35S THEARTOF 
 
 Thefe feveral drugs fhould be pounded and 
 fifted except the gum arable, which is only- 
 broken. 
 
 Inftead of gunn-arabic the native gums may- 
 be ufed, and diffolved in the following manner. 
 Some of the logwood decodbion is put into a 
 boiler; when hot, you put into it a copper 
 ftrainer, made in the Ihapc of an egg, and open 
 at the largeft end. See this utenfil in F, Plate VI. 
 fig. 2. The gum is put into this ftrainer, and 
 diflblves as the liquor heats; it muft be ftirred 
 with a wooden peftel that it may pafs through 
 the holes. When it is intirely paffed you 
 introduce another copper ftrainer, with holes 
 ftill fmaller than the former. To prevent 
 the impurities of the gum from efcaping. 
 The liquor of the gum already diffolved is 
 poured into this ftrainer and again paffed as 
 before, by the help of the peftel. This operation 
 is made more eafy, by now and then taking out 
 the ftrainer and refting it on a crofs llielf or plank, 
 fufpended on the peg over the copper ufed for 
 wringing the black. The gum muft be fqueezed 
 pretty hard with the peftel to force it through 
 the holes of the ftrainer. 
 
 The gum would diffolve with more facility, 
 if previoully fteeped for three or four days in the 
 logwood deco6tion, efpecially if you are careful 
 to pour it on very hot. 
 
 When the above ingredients are put into the 
 black ground, you muft remember to keep the 
 liquor hot enough to diffolve the gum and the 
 falts, but it ftiould never be fuffered to boil ; 
 and when it is therefore fufficiently hot, the fire 
 
 is 
 
D Y I N G S I L K. 359 
 
 IS taken away and the frefh iron filings fprinkled 
 over it, in a [iroper quantity to cover the liquor. 
 
 The next morning the fire is again put under 
 the copper, the drugs boiled and the logwod z 
 fecond time boiled. It is then taken out and 
 the following drugs added to this fecond dc- 
 co6lion. 
 
 Fiz. 
 
 2 Jfe of black Nutgalls pounded 
 4 — of Sumach 
 
 4 — of Cummin 
 
 5 — of Buckthorn berries 
 
 6 — of Pomgranate rinds 
 
 pounded 
 
 1 Jd of bitter Apple 
 
 2 — of Agaric pounded 
 2 — of Coque de Levant 
 5 — of Linfeed 
 
 Thefe drugs are boiled, the liquor drained 
 and poured on the black ground as we have 
 already faid, and the grounds preferved. You 
 then put a little fire under the copper as at 
 firfl:, and the following drugs are immediately 
 added 
 
 Viz. 
 
 % oz. of Litharge pounded 
 8 — of Antimony pounded 
 8 — of Plumb de }Her, alfo 
 
 pounded 
 S — of White Arfenic pounded 
 S — of Chryftal-mineral 
 
 8 oz. of Rock fait 
 8 — of Fenugrek 
 8 — of Corrofu e fublimate 
 8 ife of Copperas 
 20 — of Gum-Arabic, prepared 
 as above 
 
 When the liquor is hot enough, you take away 
 the fire j flrewing over the liquor, with the iron 
 filings and letting it ftand for three or four 
 days. 
 
 Two pounds of verdigris are then pounded and 
 diflblved with fix quarts of vinegar, in an earthen 
 pot, adding to it about an ounce of cream of 
 tartar. The whole fliould boil for a full hour 
 
 A a 4 
 
 taking 
 
36o THE ART OF 
 
 taking care to check the boiling, with cold 
 vinegar that it may may not boil over ; this pre- 
 paration fliould be kept ready to be added to 
 the black ground, when you are going to dye. 
 
 For the black dye the filk is boiled as ufual, 
 having walhed and beetled according to cuflom^^ 
 you give the gall liquor for heavy blacks twice^^ 
 but for light blacks only once. Thefe two 
 blacks are alike both in beauty and Ihade, 
 differing only in the weight of the filk : the light 
 black has however rather more luftre. 
 
 The nutgall liquor is made as follows: For 
 every pound of filk you muft have three quar- 
 ters of a pound of light nutgalls, adding the 
 fame quantity of aleppo. Thefe galls are 
 pounded together, and boiled for two hours, 
 in a quantity of water fufRcient for the whole of 
 the filk to be galled. As the liquor waftes a 
 great deal in !'the boiling, it is, after the firfl" 
 hour, filled again, and after two hours the fire is 
 taken away ; the liquor is then left to depofite, 
 and the galls taken out with a pierced ladle j 
 about an hour afterwards the filk is put into it, 
 prepared in the following manner. 
 
 During this operation, the filk is drained on 
 the peg, put on the cords as for boiling, and 
 only very lightly fqueezed : it is then immerfed 
 in the gall liquor, on cords one above another, 
 taking care to keep it near the furface of the li- 
 quor, but fufliciently covered. In this manner 
 it Ihould remain twelve or fifteen hours ; it is 
 then taken out, wallied at the river, and if in- 
 tended fpr heavy black, is a fecond time galled 
 in a frefh galling, like the firiti the grounds 
 
 ar« 
 
DYING SILK, 36f 
 
 are generally iifed for the firfl: galling ; but for 
 the fecond a liquor of frefh drugs. 
 
 Some Dyers gall the heavy blacks but once, 
 by boiling the old grounds, taking them out 
 immediately, and afterwards adding frefh galls ; 
 for every pound of filk, a pound of light crall, 
 and half a pound of fine Aleppo. The frelb galls 
 they boil for two hours or more, and when the 
 grounds are taken out, they put the filk in the 
 frefli gall liquor, where they let it remain a day 
 ^nd a night. 
 
 This method, they fay, is the beflr, becaufe 
 were the gall grounds to remain in the liquor, 
 they would re-imbibe part of the fubftance which 
 they had before given to the water. 
 
 When the filk is galled a little fire is put 
 under the black ground j while it is heating the 
 filk is wrung out of the galling and beetled at 
 the river. 
 
 When wafhed it is drained on the pegs, pafTing 
 a thread round every hank, each hank as large 
 as for common colours : it is then immediately 
 put on the rods. 
 
 While the black liquor is heating, it fhould 
 be ftirred with an iron rake, or paddle, to prevent 
 the grounds from flicking to the bottom of 
 the copper. You then diflblve fome French 
 gum by the method above dcfcribed, till it rifes 
 on the top in a kind of fkum covering the 
 furface of the liquor ; afterwards, you throw into 
 it two or three handfuls of linfeed. You then add 
 half of the vinegar and verdigris preparation 
 yi'ith about four or five pounds of copperas ; 
 
 thii 
 
36b THEARTOF 
 
 this lliould be pundlually repeated at every 
 heating. 
 
 Care lliould be taken whilft the fire is under 
 the copper to rake, and to try if it be hot enough 
 the rake is moved round at the bottom of 
 the copper; if the gum flicks to the rake, 
 and that the liquor does not appear through the 
 middle of the gummy fcum, it Ihews that it is hot 
 enough ; the fire is then taken away, becaufe, as 
 we have before obferved, it fhould not boil. 
 The rake is then alfo taken out, and the liquor 
 covered with the iron filings in the fame manner 
 as before ; after this it is fufFercd to fubfide for 
 about an hour, when the furface of the liquor is 
 again ftirred, in order to precipitate the filings 
 to the bottom. 
 
 Before we explain the manner of dipping filk 
 in the black liquor, it is proper to obferve that 
 Silk Dyers never dye black but by coppers, that is 
 when they have a fufficient quantity of filk for three 
 dips, if for heavy black ; but if light black only 
 two dips, which is done in the following manner. 
 
 If heavy black, a third of the filk is put upon 
 the rods, and three times returned in the black 
 ground; it is afterwards wrung on the peg over 
 the copper; this is done by giving it three 
 twifts J in this manner three hanks may be 
 wruncy at once, becaufe it fhould be done gen- 
 tly, and only to drain ; it is "again put on the 
 rods, and fufpended between two perches to air. 
 
 While the firfl filk is airing, the fecond third 
 part is dipped in the fame manner, and after- 
 wards the third third part, always in the fame 
 
 manner 
 
DYING SILK, 363 
 
 rnanner. It muft be remembered that while the 
 filk is on the rods, it fhould be turned from time 
 CO time to give it air. 
 
 When the laft third part is wrung, the firfl: 
 part is put in, and then the two others fuccef- 
 fively for three times, always airing at each time. 
 This is commonly called giving the three wrino-s, 
 and thefe three wrings are called one fire or 
 heating. 
 
 The light blacks fhould alfo have three wrings 
 to one fire. 
 
 After each fire the black ground is again heated, 
 adding copperas and gum as before. This opera- 
 tion is thrice done for the heavy blacks, thatis three 
 fires^ each fire confiding of three wrings; but for 
 light blacks only twice, each alfo confifting of 
 three wrings. 
 
 It muft be obferved that -at every reheating 
 it is requifite to change the order of dipping, 
 in fuch a manner that each may in its turn have 
 the firft of the liquor. If the black dye is ftrong 
 and good^ the heavy blacks may be done with 
 two fires only ; and for the light blacks one 
 wringing lefs may do for each heating. 
 
 When blacks are finifhed they are returned in 
 a trough of cold water by dips one after another, 
 called by the French Dyers dijhrcder or rincino-; 
 they are then twice or thrice beetled at the 
 river. When waflied you put them on the 
 cords, only taking care not to prefs them too 
 much. 
 
 Of 
 
364 THE ART OF 
 
 Softening of Black, 
 
 'T^HE filk when taken out of the black dye 
 •*• is extremely harfh, which is by no means 
 wonderful, confidering the number of acids 
 and corrofives in the compofition. It is there- 
 fore necefiary to foften in the following manner; 
 DiiTolve about five pounds of foap in two 
 buckets of water, and while the foap is diffolv- 
 ing, throw in a handful of anifeed or any other 
 aromatick plant. It fhould boil till the foap is 
 entirely difTolved. In the mean time a trough 
 Ihould be provided full of cold water, and 
 large enough to dip all the filk at the fame time. 
 The foap- water fhould be {trained through linen, 
 the whole mixed well together, and the filk 
 put in, where it fhould remain a full quarter of 
 an hour. It is then taken out, wrung on the 
 peg, and dried as ufual. As the quantity of 
 foap can do no harm, too much is better than 
 too little. This foftening is very necefl^ary, in 
 order to diveft the filk of that ruftling and 
 llifFnefs fo prejudicial in the manufacture of 
 black goods. 
 
 Black in the raw. 
 
 ''T~^0 dye black in the raw, the filk Ihould be 
 •^ galled in a cold liquor of frefh galls, 
 which had been previofly ufed for the boiled 
 (ilk. The natural yellow of the filk is prefer 
 rable for this dye, becaufe the white takes a lefs 
 beautiful caft. 
 
 Having untied the filk and divided it into 
 hanks of the common fize, it is dipped with 
 
 tht 
 
DYING SILK. 365 
 
 the hands into the gall liquor. When foaked 
 and a little fqueezed, it is ftrung on cords, eight 
 or ten hanks together. 
 
 They are afterwards put into the cold gall- 
 liquor, one above another, letting even the cords 
 fink in the liquor, where they may remain for fix 
 or feven days. They are then taken out and once 
 beetled at the river. As to time, it Ihould 
 remain in the galling according to the ftrength 
 of the liquor and the quantity of the filk puc 
 into it J but however ftrong it may be, and 
 however fmall the quantity of filk, it Ihould 
 remain two or three days at leall. 
 
 When the filk is wafhed, it is again ftrung on 
 the cotds and left to drain, after which the cords 
 are put one over the other into the rincing or 
 black wafli, which is of itfelf fufficient to dye ; 
 it will however require more or lefs time accord- 
 ing to the ftrength of the rincing wafti, gene- 
 rally about three or four days. Whilft the fillc 
 is thus immerfed in the rincing water, it fhould 
 be raifed with fticks three or four times a day; 
 it is then drained over the liquor, and when 
 drained put on the ground in a proper place, 
 where it is fpread and aired, but not dried. 
 This is abfolutely neceflary to produce the 
 black ; elfe the filk might take a black- 
 grey j this grey would however blacken in the 
 air, neverthelefs you are thereby enabled to 
 judge how much of the colour it has taken, 
 and how much it may ftill want. Should the 
 filk be fufFered to dry, it muft be again wet- 
 ted before it is re-dipped, which would be an 
 additional and unneceftary trouble. This ope- 
 ration 
 
356 THE AkT 01^ 
 
 ration of wafhing and djying rrluft be fuccef- 
 
 lively continued till the filk is fufficiently black. 
 
 The filk in this fituation is carried to tht 
 river, and twice beetled, after which it is drained 
 on the cords and then put on the perches to 
 dry, without wringing, which would fofteri it 
 too much J for as this kind of filk is defigned 
 for gauzes and black lace, care fhould be taken 
 to preferve its natural ftiffnefs as much a^ pofTible. 
 
 To produce black in the raw in the quickeft 
 manner, the filk when wafhed from its galling 
 Ihould be put on the rods and three times re- 
 turned in the blacking ground j it is then taken 
 out, and put to drain over the Veflel containing 
 the black liquor, and then cooled on the rods. 
 
 When drained, it is again twice dipped in 
 the black liquor, drained, and each time cooled 
 as at firft. When drained it is again wafhed, 
 and the procedure is then the fame as for thofe 
 •which had been dyed in the rincing. This h 
 not however the ufual method of dying black 
 in the raw; becaufe it confumes the black liquor 
 too foon, confidering with what avidity the raw 
 filk takes any colour whatever; and befides that 
 a good dijbrodurey or rincing, is fufficiently 
 ftrong for dying this colour. 
 
 The black dye is weakened and becomes ex- 
 hauftcd in proportion to the filk it has dyed; 
 it is therefore neceflary to flrengthen and re- 
 plenifh, from time to time, by an addition of 
 proper drugs, which is called giving the brevet, 
 or compofttion. 
 
 This compofition is made by putting four or 
 five buckets of water into a copper, and then 
 
 boiling 
 
THEARTOF 36; 
 
 boiling it with abbut four pounds of logwood 
 chips. The logwood is then taken out, and 
 four pounds of black buckthorn berries is added 
 with two pounds of ponngranate rind, two 
 pounds of fumach, two pounds of Coque ds 
 Levant, two pounds of coliquinte, two pounds 
 of linfeed, aad four pounds of cummin. 
 
 Thefe drugs are boiled together for about 
 three quarters of an hour; the fire is then put 
 under the black liquor; when a little more than 
 half boiled, and whilfl hot the following drugs 
 are added. 
 
 Viz. 
 
 I fo of White arfenick 
 
 2 fe of Realgar 
 4 — of Antimony 
 I — of Gold Litharge 
 I — of Silver Litharse 
 1 — of Sal-ammoniac 
 I — of Rock fait 
 I — of Chriftal mineral 
 
 I — of Corrofive fublimatc 
 I — of Orpiment 
 I — of Powder fugar 
 
 o 
 
 I — of Funegrck 
 4 — of Copperas 
 
 Thefe drugs, when all pounded, are thrown 
 into the black ground, remembring to ftir. 
 When the compofition is fufficiently boiled it 
 is drained in a trough and left to fetde; the 
 grounds having fubfided, the clear part is added 
 to the black ground. The fame grounds are 
 again boiled and preferved for fome other time. 
 
 The compofition being added to the black 
 liquor, and fufficiently hot, the fire is taken 
 away. The liquor is then ftrewed over with 
 the iron filing, and left to fettle for two days. 
 
 When the black ground has had a certain 
 number of, additions, and a quantity of fediment 
 collefted at the bottom, part of the grounds 
 fhould be taken out in order to clear the liquor. 
 Thus frequently repleniiliing, the foundation 
 
368 THEARTOF 
 
 is always preferved, fo that the liquor Is never 
 entirely newj but having been once fet in a 
 dye-houfe is fet for ever. Thefe liquors are 
 never liable to putrefadlion, owing to the great 
 quantity of nutgalls and martial vitriol in th« 
 compofition, two of the moll powerful antifep- 
 Cicks known. 
 
 Remarks on Black, 
 
 IT has been already remarked, that amongft 
 the numberlefs drugs in the compofition of this 
 colour, we may reafonably fuppofe that feveral 
 of them are ufelefs. This however may be 
 eafily afcertained by a comparifon with the fol- 
 lowing procefs for Genoa black. 
 
 The mofl: material obfervation concerning 
 the black dye is, that in general it greatly injures 
 the goods, in fuch a manner that fluffs of this 
 colour, though not inferior in other refpefts, 
 wear out much fooner than thofe of any other. 
 This defed may be attributed to the vitriolic 
 acid of the copperas, which is but imperfedly 
 faturated with the iron. Iron combined with any, 
 even vegetable, acid, is capable of producing 
 black with vegetable aftringents. It is therefore 
 moflprobablethat this inconvenience might pofTi- 
 bly be removed, by ftubflituting other combina- 
 tions of this metal for the copperas, if it were 
 however worth while to make the attempt. 
 
 From whas has been faid concerning the pro- 
 cefs of dying black, it is very evident that 
 great care fhould be taken to dip the filk in the 
 black at three different times, and to open 
 and air it between every dip. This infinitely 
 3 contributes 
 
D Y I N G S I L K. 369 
 
 contributes to the beauty of the black, fo dif- 
 ferent in this particular from all other colour3 
 which lofe a great part of their intenfity in dry- 
 ing. It is a well-known fa6b that good writing 
 ink improves by the air ; and that it is never fo 
 black when frefli and firft ufed as it appears 
 afterwards. So with regard to the black dye; 
 for filk, though no more than a greyifh black 
 after the firft dip, acquires a beautiful black 
 on being expofed to the air. The blue vat is 
 an additional inftance of the efFe6b of air on 
 colours, as the filk, though green when dipped, 
 becomes almoft immediately blue on being ex- 
 pofed to the air. 
 
 PARTICULAR PROCESSES 
 
 Communicated by M. Hellot*. 
 
 ACCORDING to the letters of M. Grange, 
 correfpondent of the Royal Society, who 
 died at Schiras in Perfia, June 1737, the 
 Dyers of the city of Damas dyed their crimfon 
 colour, fo beautiful and fo much efteemed in 
 the Eaft, in the following manner: Take ten 
 rottes (a rotte weighs five pounds) of filk in 
 fkeinsj wafh it well in warm water; then let 
 it foak in a fufficicnt quantity of hot water 
 during half an hour; fqueeze out the water; 
 dip it afterwards, but once only, in a hot 
 lixivium, made with a fufficient quantity of 
 
 •None of the following proceffes were publifhed; they 
 were taken from the manufcripts of M, Hellot, and never 
 before communicated to the public. 
 
 B b water. 
 
370 THEARTOF 
 
 water, half a rotte of kelp allies for every rotts 
 of filk, which is immediately drained on rods, 
 taking care not to leave the filk longer m the 
 lixivium than is neceflary for its being well 
 foaked, left the alkali fhcruid corrode it. 
 
 Whilft the filk drains they prepare another 
 liquor cold, with ten ounces of the pulp of yellow 
 melon, very ripe, which is uniformly diffufed in a 
 fufficient quantity of water. They fteep in this 
 liquor the ten rottes of filk for twenty-four 
 hours ; they increafe or diminifh the quantity 
 of the above drugs in proportion to the quan- 
 tity of the filk to be dyed. The filk having 
 remained one day in this niclon liquor, is feveral 
 times wafhed in frefti water till it becomes per- 
 fedly clean ; they then hang it to dry. Mean 
 while the workmen fill a large pan of water, 
 adding a half rotte of alum powdered for every 
 rotte of filk. The pan is then fufpended over 
 a hot furnace, and the liquor boiled during 
 twenty minutesj after which the fire is taken 
 from the furnace. The filk is then dipped 
 in I this alum folution, moderately hot, and 
 again taken out as foon as it is perfedily wet. 
 They then put it into another pan, pouring 
 over it the alum folution, in which it remains 
 four or five hours but no longer. It is then 
 taken out and feveral times wafhed in frefli 
 water. 
 
 Whilft the filk is walhing, a workman fills 
 a large pan with water, adding an ounce of 
 baijcnge (a fungus) finely powdered, for every 
 rotte of filk; when this new deco6lion has boiled 
 for half an hour, they add ten ounces of oudez 
 
 (cochineal) 
 
DYING SILK. ^i 
 
 (cochineal) very finely powdered, for every 
 rotte of filk ; that is, fix pounds four ounces of 
 cochineal for ten rottes of filk. As foon as this 
 cochineal is added the fire is taken from the 
 furnace. The liquor is then gently ftirred round 
 with a flick, and when the mixture is perfectly 
 made, they pour gently and by inclination a 
 little frefh water into the middle of the pan. The 
 water thus added not only cools the dye but 
 makes it much more lively. They then imme- 
 diately dip the filk four or five times, wringing 
 after every dip. This tinfture is afterwards 
 boiled again for about a quarter of an hour, 
 and the fire is then taken from the furnace as 
 before. When the liquor is a little cool they 
 dip the filk, ftill obferving to wring after every 
 dip. This done, they put the filk into an empty 
 kettle, pouring over it the remainder of the 
 dye, in which it is left to foak for four-and- 
 twenty hours. It is then well wafhed in clean 
 water, dryed in the fhade, and when very dry 
 wove into fluffs. This crimfon is much fupe- 
 rior to all the French and Italian crimfons ; 
 becaufe the filk was never boiled in the dye. 
 
 The Dyers of Damas and Diarbequir fay, 
 that they could not accomplilh this dye without 
 the pulp of the yellow melon in the preparation, 
 or without tlie baifonge ufed with the cochineal 
 in the dye. According to M. Grainge, we 
 have this melon in France j but he doubts con- 
 cerning the baifongey which is a fpecies of fungus 
 growing on trees in fome parts of Perfia, from 
 whence it is brought to Damas, and might alfo 
 be fent into France, by the way of Aleppo, 
 B b 2 were 
 
372 THE ART OF 
 
 were we defiroiis of imitating this excellence 
 
 in the crimfon dye. 
 
 To avoid nniftakes in the quantity of the 
 different ingredients employed in this proccfs, 
 it may be neceffary to repeat, that a rotte of filk 
 weighs five French pounds, and that the ten 
 rottes of filk, produced as an example in this 
 memoir, fhould alfo ferve as a ftandard with 
 regard to the quantities of the other ingredients. 
 
 As to the water neceflJary for the prreparation 
 of the filk, with the kelp, melon, and the 
 alum for the dye, it requires no more than a 
 fufficient quantity for wetting the filk, namely, 
 about a fingers breadth over it, differing froni 
 the tin6lure, which as the fKeins are dipped in 
 this liquor at leaft ten or a dbzen times, fhotild 
 be fuller in the kettle. 
 
 The kali ufed in the preparation of the filk 
 is nothing more than the afhes of a plant, 
 called by the Arabs kailou. Thefe are preferable 
 to the afhes made from the rouquet^ or thofc 
 made in Egypt. 
 
 The frames ufed for thefe filks are fimilar to 
 the frames ufed at Lyons. 
 
 Genoa Crimjony a procefs proved in May 17 43' 
 
 AT Genoa the filks defigned for crimfon are 
 boiled in a much lefs quantity of foap than 
 thofe intended for any other colour; eighteen 
 or twenty pounds ferving for a hundred pounds 
 of filk in the crimfon dyej for any other 
 colour, the Genoefe ufe forty or fifty. 
 
 When the filk is boiled, it is dipped in the 
 
 alum liquor, and to a quantity of raw filk, 
 
 4 weighing 
 
DYING SILK. 373 
 
 weighing feventy-two pounds, they put from 
 fixteen to eighteen pounds of roch alum, finely 
 powdered, into a copper full of cold water. 
 When the alum is perfeflly diflblved, the filk 
 is put to foak in it for near four hours j it may 
 remain longer without any inconvenience; 
 filk intended for crimfon requiring more alum 
 than for any other colour. When taken out 
 of the alum liquor it is lliook and drefled on 
 the pegs, but without wringing. One of the 
 Dyers being queftioned why the filk was not 
 wrung when taken out of the liquor, anfwered, 
 that it would purge it too much from an impreg- 
 nation To abfolutely neceffary for its taking the 
 crimfon dye. 
 
 Of the feventy-two pounds of filk already 
 mentioned, thirty-two pounds is organzine^ 
 and the remaining woof. At Genoa it is the 
 CLiIlom to allow two ounces of cochineal to 
 twelve of organzine, if defigned for the warp 
 of damaflc furniture, and for the fame filk an 
 ounce and three quarters of cochineal for twelve 
 ounces of the woof, fuppofing it ncceflary to 
 the beauty of the filk, that the warp fhould 
 be fuller than the woof i and to bring the colour 
 of the damafk to ftiJl more perfc6tion, they add 
 to the crganzine a quarter of an ounce of cochi- 
 neal, that is, inftead of two ounces they add 
 two ounces and a quarter, adding no more to 
 the woof than one ounce and three quarters. 
 
 As the above thirty-two pounds of organzine 
 
 Ihould be of the fineft; colour, they allow two 
 
 ounces and a quarter of cochineal to every 
 
 |)0und of filk, fo that upon the whole they 
 
 £ b 3 life 
 
374- THEARTOF 
 
 ufe one hundred and forty-two ounces of cochi- 
 neal, or eleven pounds ten ounces, Genoa 
 weight, namely, thirty-two pounds of organ- 
 zine to two ounces and a quarter of 'cochineal, 
 making feventy-two ounces: forty pounds of 
 woof to one ounce and three quarters, making 
 feventy ounces-r-total 142 ounces. 
 
 In order to dye: this feventy-two pounds of 
 filk, alumed as above, they make ufe of an 
 oval copper containing, when full, two hundred 
 quarts of water; they fill this copper two- 
 thirds full of clean fountain water, adding 
 afterwards the following drugs pounded and 
 fifted. Two ounces ot tartar, two ounces of 
 Jaffranum, and two pounds and a half of the 
 Levant 2:alls. 
 
 They wait till the drugs have boiled two 
 minutes in this liquor; after which they add the 
 eleven pounds ten ounces of cochineal finely 
 powdered and fifted; and whilft one of the 
 workmen by degrees makes it fink to the bottom, 
 another keeps violently ftirring the liquor with 
 a ftick to promote the folution. 
 
 This done, they fill the vefiel with clean 
 water to about a foot of the edge, immediately 
 afterwards dipping the thirty-two pounds of 
 crganzme divided on fourteen rods. They let 
 it remain till the vefiel which they fill with clean 
 water, and under which they put a large fire, 
 is ready to boil j they then, to make the filk 
 take the colour more evenly, raife the rods 
 without ceafing, one after another, that each 
 may alternately reach the bottom of the copper, 
 which being but two-thirds full, the upper pvc 
 
DYING SILK. 375 
 
 of the filk would elfe remain out of the liquor, 
 the rods being fupported on the edge of the 
 copper. 
 
 When the liquor was ready to boil, the forty 
 pounds of woof, divided on eighteen rods, wer« 
 dipped. They ftill continuing to raife the 
 rods, one after another for half an hour, both 
 organzine the and the woof, that each may 
 alternately reach the bottom, fo that when 
 the workman came to the laft he returned to 
 the firft, and fo on fuccefiively. 
 
 After the firft half-hour, they flopped for a quar- 
 ter of an hour between every operation, the work- 
 men ftill raifmg the rods from the firft to laft, five 
 or fix times repeated in the fpace of an hour 
 and halfj all the time keeping a good fire under 
 the copper. The organzine was then fteeped 
 in this liquor two hours and a quarter, and the 
 woof only two hours. The fire was then taken 
 from under the copper, and the workman taking 
 out one dip of the organzine and another of the 
 woof, he wrung and dryed them as much as 
 he could to fee if the colour was what he wifhed; 
 if not fufEciently deep for the purpofe, he let 
 them both remain in the liquor fomethinglefs-than 
 half an hour whilft the liquor was growing cold. 
 He then took out all the filk, wrung it on the 
 peg, then wafhed it feveral times in clean water, 
 changing the water every time. This done he 
 wrung it again on the pegs, and fo finifhcd the 
 operation. 
 
 It muft be obferved with regard to the organ- 
 xine and woof, that though dyed in the fame 
 liquor, they were not however of the fame 
 B b 4. /hade 
 
376 THEARTOF 
 
 Ihade at the conclufion of the operation; the 
 organzine was deeper, having been a quarter of 
 an hour longer in the cochineal liquor, during 
 which time it was impregnated with the more 
 fubtle colouring particles of the cochineal. 
 
 At Genoa it is not the cuftom to wafh the 
 filk out of the cochineal v/ith foap water; on 
 the contrary, they are perfuaded that this prac- 
 tice dulls the brightnefs of the colour, and 
 that the water, both for the cochineal liquor 
 and for wafhing afterwards, fhould be the fineft 
 fpring water ; for they remark that the crimJon 
 dyed in fummer with ciftern water, is by no 
 means fo bright as the crimfons dyed at other 
 feafons when the fountains are full. 
 
 According to the Dyers of Genoa, there is a 
 kind of cochineal which though apparently 
 beautiful, is not fo in effed:-, that in ufing this 
 cochineal it is neceflary to alum the fiik as 
 much] as pofTible, and to add to it more tartar 
 than before mentioned. It is however im- 
 pofUble to give any certain rules concering this 
 matter; the Dyer himfelf will judge of the 
 quality of the cochineal fit for ufe. He fhould 
 however ufe the befl ; for were it even a faft 
 that the inferior kind, with the afTiftance of a 
 greater quantity of alum and tartar, gives a 
 colour equal to the befl, the filk thus weakened 
 by alum would neceffarily be always lefs perfeft. 
 The Genocfe manufadurers are fo well convinced 
 of this, that they themfelves furnifh their dyers 
 "with cochineal in proportion to the fiik given 
 to be dyed. 
 
 riokf 
 
DYING SILK. 377 
 
 Violet Crimfon of Italy > 
 'TT^HE filk being alumed as for red- crimfon, 
 -*- take it out of tlie alunning, and dye it with 
 cochineal. For this purpofe, difTolve two ounces 
 of gum arabic in the copperj for every pound 
 of filk two ounces of cochineal, a third of an 
 ounce of jigaricy and as much Turmeric. Mix 
 and pour them into your copper j when they 
 begin to boil and that the gum is perfectly dif- 
 folved, arrange your filk on the rods, immerge in 
 the copper; let it boil for two hours and it is then 
 dyed. Let it grow cold, wafh and wring it on 
 the peg. Wafh it afterwards lightly. To make 
 it violet, plunge it into the blue vat till it has 
 taken a fine violet. Wafli it in clear fountain 
 water, wring it and dry it in the Ihade^ opening 
 and fpreading well. 
 
 Half Violet. 
 
 FOR one pound of filk take a pound and a 
 half of archil, mix it well in the liquor; 
 make it boil for a quarter of an hour, dip the 
 filk quickly i let it cool j wafli at the river and 
 you will have a fine half violet or lilac, more 
 or lefs full. 
 
 Genoa Black for Velvets. 
 
 'TpHE filk fliould boil for four hours with a 
 -"- quarter of its weight of white Marfeilks 
 foap and be well waflied. Boil in a copper 
 with five hundred quarts of water, feven pounds 
 of gall. Leave the galls to fettle; draw off 
 the clear, and having thrown away the grounds 
 
 return 
 
375 THE ART OF 
 
 return the gall water into the copper. Plunge 
 into the middle of it a pierced pot, containing 
 feven pounds of gum fenegal, feven pounds 
 of Roman vitriol or copperas, and {even 
 pounds of the cleaneft iron filings. The 
 liquor having diffolved thefe drugs extinguifii 
 the fire, and leave it to ferment eight hours. 
 Then heat it again, and when ready to boil, put 
 again the fame cullender into the fame copper, 
 and having made fix parcels, each compofed of 
 the fixteenth part of the gum, copperas and 
 filings intended for the black liquor, in the pro- 
 portion of one pound of each to every ten pounds 
 of filk, difTolve in the cullender this fixteenth 
 part of the whole. The fire is then taken away, 
 and having thrown ten quarts of cold water into 
 the liquor to make it no more than hot enough 
 to bear your hand in it, put your filks on the 
 rods, plunge them into the liquor, where let them 
 remain about ten minutes. Return the hanks 
 four times, and afterwards wring them on the 
 peg over the copper. 
 
 Frefh filk may be dipped in the fame liquor, 
 proceeding in the fame manner. Begin firft with 
 the woof, then dip the pile, and when the liquor 
 is almoft cold, dip the warp which" is feldom 
 more than a black grey. 
 
 The whole of the filk having been dipped in 
 this firft liquor, the copper is then reheated, 
 putting into it the fame cullender with another 
 fixteenth of the gum, vitriol and iron filings, 
 "When the liquor is cooled as before, dip the 
 filk as in the firft liquor, obferving at this time 
 to dip the pile firft, then the woof, and always 
 
 th« 
 
DYING SILK. 379 
 
 the warp laflr, repeating this procefs fix times. 
 While the filk remained wet the black was 
 excellent, even when compared with that of 
 Tours J but it became different when dry. At 
 Tours, they thought to add to the black liquor, 
 fmall wine, anifeed and other drugs ; but they at 
 laft determined to fend fome of their black filks 
 to Genoa. The following is M. Regni's opinion 
 in writing concerning them. 
 
 " The Dyers of Genoa, being made acquainted 
 with the procefs in dying the fpecimen fub- 
 mitted to their infpeftion, have no doubt, but 
 that the laft inftru6lions were exadly followed, and 
 that the want of fuccefswas owingi i**. to having 
 ufed Levant galls, which have much more fub- 
 ftance than thofe of Sicily and Romagne and com- 
 monly ufed at Genoa j 2^. that the black liquor 
 could acquire perfecftion only by a frelh dofe of 
 the drugs of which it was compofedj fo that in 
 new and future operations they have only to re- 
 member in galling of the filk to make ufe of the 
 galls o^ Sicily or of Rcmagne or if obliged to ufe the 
 Levant, to allow but one third of a pound for 
 every pound of filk, inftead of a half a pound of 
 the former. The Dyers of Genoa immediately con- 
 ceived, the kind of gall they had ufed in France 
 from M. Regni's report — that a pound of filk 
 weighing twelve ounces, had recovered in the 
 galling what it had loft of its weight in the 
 foaping, whereas it fhould recover only eleven 
 ounces." 
 
 With regard to the black liquor, it wanted 
 
 pothing more to make it compleat, than an addi- 
 
 ^ tiojial 
 
38o THE ART OF 
 
 tional frefh dofe of gum, iron-filings, and vitriol 
 of each an equal quantity, which Ihould be 
 added in fmall dofes till the filk had acquired a 
 proper colour; remembering that thefe drugs 
 Jhould be added to the old liquor, there being 
 no occafion to make a frefh, fince the old acquires 
 perfe<5lion in proportion as it is ufed. This 
 Genofe having dipped the pattern fix times in his 
 black dye, the black became much finer. The 
 fame dyer, a man enriched by his profefTion, 
 writes that abfolutely no other drug fhould 
 enter into the compofition of the black liquor, 
 than thofe mentioned in the laft inflrudions 
 preceding this, and that the wine and anifeed can 
 be of no ufe but to fpoil the black liquor. 
 
 In confequence of this letter they afterwards 
 dyed very good black at Tours. The following 
 procefs was pradifed in the manufaclory of the 
 late M.Hardion. For every hundred pounds of 
 filk, they boil during an hour twenty pounds of 
 aleppo galls powdered, in a fufficient quantity of 
 water, the liquor is then fuffered to fubfide, and 
 when the nutgalls fall to the bottom they are 
 taken out. They afterwards add two pounds and 
 a half of Englifh vitriol, twelve pounds of iron 
 filings, and twenty pounds of native gum, either 
 plumb or cherry, &c. which is put into a kind 
 of pot with two handles and full of holes ; this 
 cullender is fufpendcd in the copper, fo as not 
 to fall to the bottom. The gum is left to dif- 
 folve for an hour, flirring it lightly from time to 
 time with a ftick. If after an hour, the gum 
 remains in the pot, it Ihews that the liquor 
 is fufEciently faturated^ if, on the contrary, 
 
 all 
 
DYING SILK. 3S1 
 
 all the gum is diflblved, tliey add three or four 
 pounds more. The cullender remains conti- 
 nually fufpended in the liquor, except when 
 they want to dye, and is immediately afterwards 
 replaced. During all thefe preparations, the 
 copper is kept hot, but not boiling. The galling 
 is done with one third Aleppo galls. The 
 filk is left in it for fix hours, then for twelve, and 
 the remainder of the jproccCs fecmdum Artem^ 
 
PART III. 
 
 THE 
 
 ART OF DYING 
 
 COTTON AND LINEN THREAD; 
 
 TOGETHER WITH 
 
 THE METHOD OF STAMPING SILKS, 
 COTTONS, &c. 
 
 TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH OF 
 
 M. LE PILEUR D'APLIGNY. 
 
OF 
 
 DYING IN GENERAL. 
 
 DYING is the art of developing and extrafting 
 the coloured particles of any fubftance 
 whatever, and of uniting them afterwards to 
 fluffs, fo as apparently to conftitute but one body. 
 
 The objedt of dying is colour, as it is alfo the 
 mechanichal part of painting, differing only in 
 the mode of operation. The operation of both 
 arts is expreffed by the word colouring y a 
 term authorifed by cuflom, however improper : 
 for neither the Painter nor the Dyer do actually 
 colour fubflances. To do this they muft totally 
 alter the configuration of their pores, which gives 
 them the property of refiedling and abforbing in 
 different degrees, the rays of light by which 
 their different colours are produced. The Dyer 
 indeed may enlarge the pores, and thereby 
 produce white, in giving admiflion to a 
 greater number of luminous rays; but quite 
 otherwife in dying, fince by filling the pores 
 he prevents the admiflion of thofe rays ; and 
 by filling them with coloured bodies, it does not 
 follow that he produces colours; but on the con- 
 trary, that thcfe colours are pre-exifting in the 
 fubflances employed. 
 
 Some philofophers admit of only three pri- 
 mitive colours, yellow, red, and blue. Black and 
 white properly fpeaking are indeed no colours, 
 white being nothing more than the reflection of 
 
 C c all 
 
386 THE ART OF 
 
 all the rays of light, and black only a privation of* 
 light. Neverthelefs as black and white bodies 
 cxift in nature ; as it would be a very defirable 
 thing to difcover any black drug, capable of pro- 
 ducing this colour permanently, and as whitening 
 is an operation which in fome refpedls belong to 
 dying and is neceflary to the dyer, 1 prefume I may 
 be juftified in diftinguifhing relative to this art, 
 five primitive or fundamental colours, which 
 combined ad infinitum may produce all pofliblc 
 fhades. ^ 
 
 Juft as paintings in water colours which eafily 
 fade, are diftinguifhed from thofe in oyl, which 
 are permanent, in like manner the Dyers diftin- 
 guifh the great from the lejfer dye. But this 
 laft does not confill as fome imagine, in de- 
 pofiting extraneous fubftances on the furface of 
 bodies only, or within pores not fufficiently 
 capacious for their reception. Subftances of this 
 nature have never been employed even in the 
 , lefler dye, as walhing alone would carry them 
 ofF. 
 
 The lefler dye confifts in introducing into 
 the pores of the fubftance to be dyed, matters 
 "whofe particles are too much dilated for the 
 capacity of the pores, and which are deprived 
 of the gluten necelTary for their retention j or 
 if retained are of a nature eafily altered by the 
 aftion of the air, which changes their texture, 
 and confequently their mode of refleflion. 
 
 The great or good dye confifts in introducing 
 into the pores of the fubftance to be dyed, certain 
 colouring particles, which by the eflence and 
 combination of their principles, are affe<Sed 
 
 neither 
 
DYING THREAD. 387 
 
 neither by the air nor fun ; and in retaining 
 them either by means of a gluten or by attrac- 
 tion. 
 
 There exifi: therefore feveral degrees of 
 good dye, according to the different nature of 
 the maftics produced in the operation of dying. 
 There are good dyes for wool and filk, and 
 others for cotton and thread ; fome refilling only 
 the aftion of acids, and others of fixed alkali. 
 The firft are proper for wool and filk, becaufe 
 thefe fubftances are not foaped s the latter necef- 
 fary for thread and cotton. 
 
 From this definition of the good dye, it evi- 
 dently depends on a variety of concurring cir- 
 cumftances, which require particular inveftiga- 
 tion before we proceed to an explanation of our 
 theory. I fhall therefore ; Firfi, treat of the 
 different fubftances commonly dyed ; Secondly, of 
 the preparation given for dying ; Thirdly, of the 
 various fubftances generally employed in the 
 art; and Fourthly, of the aftringents introduced 
 into ftuffs, previous to their being dyed. 
 
 I fhall omit any mention of the lefler dye, 
 becaufe it is already fufficiently explained by M. 
 Hellot, in his treatife on the art of dying wool. 
 
 Enquiry concerning Wool, Silk, Cotton, and 
 Flax, 
 
 'HpKE fubftances generally dyed are wool, 
 
 -"- filk, cotton, and thread of flax. Thefe 
 
 fubftances being of a different texture, and 
 
 CD 
 
 their pores alfo different as well in fizc as in 
 
 form, muft neceflfarily be different in their apti- 
 
 C c 2 tudc 
 
388 THEARTOF 
 
 tude for receiving and retaining of colouring 
 particles. 
 
 Wool was probably the firft fubftance that 
 men undertook to dye, whether in the fleece 
 whilft yet they wore the flcins of animals, or 
 whether in worfted after the art of fpinning was 
 invented. Silk and and cotton were not known 
 till fometime afterwards j and the dying of 
 flax was a new invention in the time .of 
 Pliny. 
 
 Of IVooL 
 
 WOOL is compofed of an infinite number 
 of fibres, which like hairs, are onty tubes 
 containing a medullary fubftance. Thefe tubes 
 are themfelves fieves throughout their length, 
 with an infinity of lateral pores. They are more 
 or lefs curled in proportion to the greater or 
 IcITer quantity of thefe pores j which may be 
 cafily conceived, becaufc the more interruptions 
 in the continuity of a body, the more flexible k 
 will be. The fibres of the wool being curled 
 muft therefore have many pores, confequently 
 great room for the extraneous fubftances which 
 may not be only lodged in the exterior pores, but 
 even penetrate into the whole extent of the tubes 
 after the medullary fubftance had been expelled. 
 
 It is not therefore to be wondered at, if wool 
 being of all fubftances, that are made into ftufi's, 
 the moft porous, Ihould be the moft cafy to 
 dye, and imbibe the greateft quantity of co- 
 lour. 
 
 Oj 
 
D Y I N G T H R E A D. 389 
 
 Of Silk. 
 
 CILK is a glutinous matter, formed in the 
 ^ body of the worm, which hardens in the air 
 while the animal is fpinning. We may ratio- 
 nally conjedture, that this liquor originally pro- 
 ceeds from the mucillage of the mulberry leaf, 
 which in the body of the worm, by its com- 
 bination with volatile alkali becomes an animal 
 gluten i and that this gluten acquires con-r 
 fiftence in the air, in confequence of the evapora- 
 tion of a thin oil, and a part of this volatile 
 alkali. 
 
 We have an example of this phenomenon in 
 the drops found on the leaves of the Roraire \_Ros 
 Jolu'\ which being touched whilll the fun fhines on 
 it, will draw into white and very fine threads. 
 The confolidation of this gluten is foon pro- 
 moted in the filk by a yellow fubftance with 
 which the animal impregnates its thread, which 
 l^ems to be a concrete oil, fomething of the 
 ~ nature of wax. Silk thread, therefore is nothing 
 more than a continued feries of the moleculcC 
 of this indurated gluten ; but as in this deficca- 
 tion, thefe molicul^e will remain at unequal 
 didances, there will necefTarily be inequalites, 
 and confequently pores in the thread. Belides 
 all bodies being an affcmblagc of particles 
 joined together either by combination or aggre- 
 gation, their exiftence necefTarily fuppofe pores 
 formed by the int^rftices between their unequal 
 furfaces. Even metals, however compadl, arc 
 porous ; but their pores are too fmall to be 
 yifible. Silk in like manner having pores only 
 C c 3 on 
 
39© THEARTOF 
 
 on its furface, and the interior part of the thread 
 no concavity, as in wool, it follows that filk 
 can admit no particles into its pores, but fuch 
 as are extremely fubtile and in very fmall quan- 
 tities; that even the particles admitted require 
 a ftronger maftic than in wool, fince they are 
 only fuperficial, and incapable of penetrating. 
 
 Silk fhould therefore be, and really is, very 
 difficult to dye in the permanent dye : it re- 
 quires more dye, becaufe as the pores ,are only 
 capable of containing the finer particies, the 
 overplus mull be entirely loft. One ounce of 
 cochineal is fufficient to dye one pound of woolj 
 but it requires two ounces and a half to give 
 the fame fhade to one pound of filk. In (hort 
 for this reafon no colour is fo permanent in filk 
 as in wool. 
 
 Of Cotton, 
 
 /^OTTON is a thready fubftance, enveloping 
 ^^ the grain of the cotton tree : it is not 
 formed as fome people imagine, by the ex- 
 travafation of the nourilhing juice of the plant: 
 were it fo, it would vary both in fize and form. 
 It is truly a vegetation produced on the outfide 
 of the grain whofe juice contributes to its 
 nourifhment and growth ; and as no vegetable 
 fubftance can receive a juice without velTels 
 proper for its circulation, it neceflarily fol" 
 lows that the fibres of the cotton are hollow 
 within, in the fame manner as thofe of the' 
 wool; but being a great deal finer, muft be 
 more difficult to dye, becaufe incapable of 
 admitting fuch grofs particles. It has alfo ex- 
 terior 
 
DYING THREAD. 391 
 
 tenor and lateral pores like thofe of wool, com- 
 municating with the longitudinal tubes, which 
 are alfo fupplied with a kind of medullary oil, 
 proceeding from the grain which is of an undtuous 
 nature. It is eflcntially necefTary to expel this 
 oil, previous to dying, or elfe fo far from pene- 
 trating, the dye would be extremely fuperficial. 
 The exigence of this medulary oil is evident 
 from the difficulty with which cotton abforbs 
 when plunged into water, and the facility with 
 which it foaks when perfectly cleanfed; and that 
 if held up to the light in its natural ftate, it appears 
 opaque, but after cleanfing, per^edly tranf- 
 parent. , 
 
 Of Flax. 
 
 CTALKS of all plants are compofed of three 
 pans, namely the medullary and fometimes 
 woody part, the bark and the epidermis : they 
 reprefent in vegetables, fomething like what 
 forms the bones in animals, that is to fay the 
 marrow, the fubftance of the bones and the 
 periofteum. 
 
 When the pith grows dry, and becomes woody 
 it then adheres more or lefs to the rind, by 
 means of a mucilage more or lefs tenacious, 
 which is continually furnifhed by the cxfudation 
 of the fap through the pores j fo it is with the flalks 
 of flax, hops, nettles, and many other plants, 
 efpecially of the chefnut kind, from which it is 
 poflible to procure thread. 
 
 As the rind is an alTemblage of fibres glued 
 
 together by this mucilage, and covered with an 
 
 epidermis formed by the fame mucilage, which 
 
 C c 4 penetrating 
 
392 THEARTOF 
 
 penetrating between each fibre, hardens in the 
 air, the only method of obtaining thread from 
 thefe plants is by diflblving this nnucilage, by 
 which the fibres are^'glued to the wood and to each 
 other. 
 
 This foaking may be performed in feveral 
 ways, either by macerating the ftalks in water 
 or by putting them on the grafs and expofing 
 them to the dew for a certain time. The lad 
 is the fafeft operation for preferving the ftrength 
 of the thread, provided there be no great abun- 
 dance of rain; but it is more tedious and liable 
 to accidents. Whatever may be the method, there 
 is no fixing any certain time for this foaking, as 
 it muft depend on the adherence of the mucilage, 
 the nature of the difi^erent plants, their degree 
 of maturity, the quality of the foil, of the water, 
 and the temperature of the air during the time 
 of foaking. 
 
 As "upon this operation depends the good- 
 nefs and beauty of the thread, it is eflen- 
 tially necelTary that it fhould be fuperintended 
 by a man of intelligence, and a competent judge 
 of the precife time whe.i the mucilage is difTolveds 
 for were this time to pafs, the fibres being naked 
 would weaken and rot. This foaking pro- 
 duces a fermentation truly acid, tending to 
 putrefa6tion if not ftopt in proper time. It 
 therefore, demands a knowledge that can only 
 be acquired by pradlice : for this reafon the 
 farmers and cultivators of flax, who pre- 
 pared it themfelves, fo feldom fucceeded in 
 having fine flax, that feveral of them difcouraged 
 and abandonded the cultivation. In Holland and 
 
DYING THREAD. 393 
 
 in Flanders and in all places remarkable for fine 
 thread this preparation is confidered as a par- 
 ticular branch of trade. The culture of the 
 plant is Ick to the farmer, who, when it is ripe 
 gives it to thofe by whom it is prepared. 
 
 The (talks of the plant being well foaked 
 and dryed, the wood but flightly adheres to 
 the bark, from which it is detached by means 
 of a i^rcie or ftripped off in ribbands. The 
 bark, though thus difengaged from the wood, 
 is by no means yet difcharged from its mucilage. 
 This mucilage is in two different ftatesj firfl, 
 that by which the fibres of the rind are gummed 
 to each other, and to the wood, which is dry and 
 reduced to duflj and fecondly, that forming the 
 epidermis, which when dried and hardened by 
 the fun refembles horn, like all mucilages when 
 baked and dried. The firft portion of this 
 mucilage flies off in duff when the flax is beat, 
 rubbed in the hand, or ground in the mills for 
 the purpol'e: the fibres thus detached from each 
 other are divided into threads, numerous in 
 proportion to their finenefs. Nothing then re- 
 mains on the furface of each fibre but the har- 
 dened and tenacious gluten, by which it is pre- 
 vented from appearing white, nor can the thread 
 be whitened till this be deflroyed, which opera- 
 tion is called bleaching, and of which I fliall 
 fpeak hereafter. 
 
 It may be prefumed that the fibres of thread 
 are porous J but that their pores are fmaller than 
 the pores of other fubfliances commonly dyed. 
 Their detached and feperate fibres bear fomc 
 refemblance to filk, refpeding their continuity, 
 
 3 only 
 
394 THEARTOF 
 
 only they are more dry and compa£l : thread 
 is therefore more difficult to dye, at leaft in the 
 good dye. It eafily takes the dye of logwood, 
 brafil, archil, carthamus, and in general of all 
 fubftances whofe particles are fufficiently mi- 
 nute to enter their pores; but unfortunately thefe 
 fubftances give only falfe dyes. With regard 
 to the good dye, I am of opinion it can only 
 be accomplilhed by introducing the dye into 
 the interftices of the fibres which compofe the 
 thread when fpun, which interftices, form fo 
 many artificial pores. We know at leaft, that 
 twifted thread is dyed with moft eafe, pro- 
 bably becaufe the interftices are more nu- 
 merous, 
 
 Conclufions from the Examination of Suhjiances 
 commonly Dyed. 
 
 'nr^HE examination of thefe four fubftances 
 •*• prove that their aptitude for receiving the 
 dies may be more or lefs attributed to their tex- 
 tures. Thus, without any fuppofition relative 
 to the different homogeneity or affinity be- 
 tween the animal and vegetable fubftances, 
 and the colouring particles, it may be eafily 
 conceived, why thofe giving fcarlet to wool, 
 do not produce the fame colour on filk, nor 
 give any to cotton. They produce on filk 
 only the colour of lees of wine, very dull; 
 becaufe the particles of the cochineal form 
 a lacker, with the calx of tin difFufed in the 
 dying liquor. The pores of the wool are large 
 enough for their reception ; but tho<e of the filk 
 being too minute, are incapable of admitting 
 
 this 
 4 
 
- DYING THREAD. 395 
 
 this grofs lacker. They admit only the dead 
 particles of the cochineal, which are more fubtle 
 than thofe of the lacker, becaufe more fimplej 
 but whofe colour is almoft intirely abforbed 
 by the calx of the tin. Cotton, in its natural 
 ftate, admits of nothing within its pores; but 
 like filk, when properly cleanfed, and for the fame 
 reafon, it takes a lees of wine colour. With re- 
 gard to the kermes and madder, filk, when pre- 
 pared as it ought to be, readily imbibes their 
 colour J of this I am well aiTured by repeated 
 experiments, whatever may have been urged to 
 the contrary. It is befides very certain, that 
 before the difcovery of cochineal, filk was always 
 died with kermes, and it was then called fcarlec 
 filk. 
 
 To the different textures of the fubftances to 
 be dyed may be alio attributed the different 
 fhades they take in thofe dies capable of pene- 
 trating their pores, though dyed in the fame 
 manner. This remark holds good even with re- 
 gard to fluffs differently manufadlured, though of 
 the fame kind: different fabrication neceffarily 
 contrafling the pores of the fluff in a greater or 
 lefs degree, makes them receive more or lefs of the 
 colouring drug. This contraction is the reafon 
 why fcarlet cloth when cut, appears interiorly white, 
 the colouring atoms being too large to penetrate; 
 but this never happens in thofe colours for which 
 the cloth is previoufly alumed. 
 
 Independent of this reafoning, the different 
 pofitions and delicacy of the fibres of the fluff, 
 caufe a difference not only in the fhades but alfo 
 
 in 
 
396 THEARTOF 
 
 in the brightnefs of colour, in proportion to the 
 
 greater or lefs refledion of the rays of light. 
 
 Of Bleaching, 
 
 "IIZH I T E N I N G of thread, fcouring of wool, 
 and ungumming of filk, is nothing more 
 than the fame operation differently performed for 
 thefe different fubffances, but intended for the 
 fame purpofe, viz. to dived them of the unduous 
 and extraneous matter which prevents the co- 
 lours from adhering, and tarnifhes their bright- 
 nefs. The colour white beins the eff'ect of the 
 refieftion of all the rays of light, and all other 
 colours being produced by the refradlion of the 
 ^ame rays of light, it follov/s that bodies are in- 
 cable of being whitened till divefted of this inhe- 
 rent fubffance, which obftructing their pores 
 prevents the reflexion of the light. Alkaline 
 falts aft moff powerfully on this fubftance, be- 
 eaufe it is of an oily nature; alkalies are generally 
 ufed either in a pure or in a foapy flate. Acids 
 are neverthelefs ufed for t'.e fame purpofe in 
 the whitening thread, and to dived it of a 
 fubdance that will not yield to alkalies. 
 
 Wool is commonly cleanfed with fermented 
 urine, which forming a foap with the unduous 
 matter, eafily carries it off^. 
 
 In order to dived filk of its natural yellow, it 
 is boiled in foap and water. Fixed alkalies would 
 do as well, but thefe are not ufed, becaufe they 
 naturally corrode all animal fubdances, Never- 
 thelefs as the luftre of our European filk un- 
 gumed with foap is remarkably inferior to the 
 Chinefe, it was propofed tg fubditute the fait 
 
 « of 
 
D Y I N G T H R E A D. 397 
 
 of kalii. We do not however hear that it has 
 been ever adopted in any of the manufac- 
 tories. 
 
 If it be fuppofed that the inferior qualities of 
 our filk be owing to the oil in the foap, a lix- 
 ivium of the kelp of alicant might be fubftituted 
 with fome advantage, becaufe the phlogifton it 
 contains would weaken the operation of the 
 fait. This lixivium, I fhould imagine, would 
 be preferable to the fodaj propofed to the 
 Academy at Lyons, by M. Rigaut of St. Quin- 
 tins, that fait having no advantage over other 
 fixed alkalies, fince in cryftalizing it lofes its 
 phlogifton. 
 
 It was formerly the cuftom amongfl: the anci- 
 ents to cleanfe their wool with a plant which 
 might perhaps be advantageoufly ufed in the 
 unguming of filk. This plant is the Struthion 
 of the Greeks, called by Fl'iny Radkula; the root of 
 this plant, fays he, has the virtue [Tingenlihus Ra- 
 dicula Unas preparat^ quam Struthion de Graiis 
 vocari diximus. P. L. 24. Sed. 58. Radkula 
 Lavandis lanis fuccum hahet : mintm quantum con- 
 ferens candori, molitieique. P. L. 19. Seel. 18.] 
 of giving foftnefs to wool, and the mofl: aftonifh- 
 ing whitenefs : it grows in cultivated ground, 
 alfo naturally in ftony and uncultivated places. 
 It has large and extended roots, which when 
 ufed for the cleanfing of wool, are pounded. 
 Diofcorides [L; 2. ch. 193.] fpeaking of this 
 plant, calls it the fame which is fold in the fliops 
 by the name of foap-wort, becaufe ufed inftead 
 of foap, and that it anfwers as well for taking 
 ipots out of ftufFs, and for cleanfing wool of its 
 
 natural 
 
398 THEARTOF 
 
 natural fat. P. Hardouin fays it Is called by 
 feme the fulling herb, becaufe ufed in fulling of 
 cloth. Linneus [49y/. Nat. i. p. 1028.] calls it 
 Gyfpjophila Struthioriy and we are told that the 
 peafants of the province of la Mancha in Spain 
 alfo ufed it in the nature of foap. It is certainly 
 the fame, at leaft of the fame genus of a plant 
 common in Calabria, known by the name of 
 Lanaria, the root of which is there ufed for 
 cleanfing of wool. 
 
 Our foap-wort is a kind of Lychnis growing 
 near rivers, ponds, in woods and fand. It has 
 a long reddifh fibrous and acrid root, broad 
 leaves, like thofe of a plaintain, having a nitrous 
 tafte. It is cultivated in gardens, is very bitter 
 and very aftringent. It takes fpots out of clothes 
 like foap. 
 
 We know of feveral plants, that might be ufed 
 for the fame purpofe ; firft, pellitory, growing 
 abllhdantly in old walls and ruins. The peafants 
 jn ftveral places make ufe of the leaves for 
 cleaning of glafs. Secondly, the fied de ijeati 
 macule, the ftalks and leaves of which the women 
 of Poitou macerate in water, changing the water 
 every day : the grounds when pounded they ufe 
 inftead of foap for wafhing of linen. 
 
 There is befides a V\n^o{ lifer on {conijuhuliis 
 marinus) growing on the borders of the fea. The 
 fubftance of the leaf is fat, and has a fait tafte, 
 its flowers white and bell-fliaped, a fpecies of 
 foldanella. This may be alfo ufed in the fame 
 manner, as may all the kalis in general, elpecially 
 when frefh gathered. 
 
 Such 
 
DYING THREAD. 599 
 
 - Such minute enquiries may perhaps be deemed 
 trifling, fome will imagine that the ufe of thefe 
 plants having been at a time when foap was but 
 little known, need not be much regretted at 
 prefent, when foap may be eafily procured. I 
 agree with them fo far, that it may be always 
 more convenient for individuals to make ufe of 
 foap ; but in manufa6lories where the advantage 
 of one above another confifts in the higheft per- 
 feflion and great eft ceconomy, the cafe is dif- 
 ferent. They would experience both in the ufe 
 of thefe plants. It would require only to have 
 a corner of ground near at hand, planted with 
 one of thofe plants, from which a part may be 
 gatherd as occafion required j and as it is the 
 oil of foap which tarnifhes the filk, this incon- 
 venience would be avoided by ufing the natural 
 foap of vegetables, which muft be ftill more inno- 
 cent than even the beft artificial foap, becaufe 
 the combinations of nature are always more per- 
 fed than thofe of art. 
 
 As the efFedt of fixed alkali is much lefs 
 violent on vegetable than on animal fub- 
 ftances, it is ufed for the former fimply, and even 
 fometimes quickened by lime. Neverthelefs 
 the lixivium is diluted in a quantity of water 
 fufficient to weaken and prevent them from 
 ixijuring cotton. 
 
 The , whitening of linen thread and flax. Is 
 in like manner performed with fixed alkali ; 
 but as the fubftance adhering to their fibres 
 has a vaft deal more confiftence, than that ad- 
 hering to wool, cotton or filk, the bleaching of 
 thefe can only be accomplilhed by degrees, and 
 
 requires 
 
400 THEArTOI^ 
 
 requires much patience. Very cauftic lixiviumi 
 are fometimes ufed by way of accelerating : 
 they indeed whiten more fpeedily, but it is at 
 the expence of the thread itfelf, thefe lixiviums 
 attacking the fubftance, at the fame time that 
 they a£t on the tarnifhing matter. You fuc- 
 ceed better and more certainly, by alternately 
 foaking the thread in weak lixiviums^ and by 
 expofing it to the heat of the fun, and to the 
 dew, and even watering it from time to time 
 during the day. It is impofTible to determine 
 how often this operation fliould be repeated, as 
 it depends on the quality of the ground which 
 produced the line or hempi of its maturity, and 
 on the manner of foaking, which may be in- 
 finitely varied. 
 
 There is a plant that might perhaps be ufed 
 with advantage, as the ancients employed it fuc- 
 ceflively in whitening their linen. Pliny calls it 
 Papaver Jylvejire, a quibufdam heraclion vocatuntj 
 ah aliis Jphron. It is the Peplos, or round 
 fpurge i \_The author is certainly mijlaken injuppofing 
 Plinfs Papaver (poppy) to be a /pedes 0/ Euphorbia 
 or/pwrge"] We have fome reafon to fuppofe that 
 the fmall fpurge growing in great abundance 
 in Provence and Languedocj the large field 
 fpurge, and marfli T'ithyinale, otherwife called 
 black or baftard turbithy which grows on the 
 fandy banks of rivers and ponds, and is alfo cul- 
 tivated with fuccefsj might ferve for the fame 
 purpofe. All thefe plants are impregnated with 
 abundance of a milky, acrid, and cauflic 
 juice which might fupply the place of alkaline 
 lixivia. 
 
 The 
 
DYING COTTON. .^or 
 
 The procefs of bleachirtg is nearly the fame in 
 all countries J it differs only in the time and 
 mode of operation. This difference is not to be 
 wondered at, fince it is founded on the nature of 
 the matter to be expelled in whitening. Flax, 
 hemp and all other vegetable fubftances capable 
 of producing thread, are impregnated with a 
 confiderable quantity of fwcet oil, not volatile, 
 mixed with the mucilage of the plant. Fixed 
 alkalies combined with the oily particles, form 
 together a foap, the folution of which in water 
 would be prevented by the mucilage forming 
 a maftic with the oil j now this maftic can only 
 be detached from the thread, by expofing it to 
 the heat of the fun, by which this alkali is vola- 
 tilized. But the thread, though wafhed and feveral 
 times dried, is not yet fufficiently whitened. I 
 have already faid that one portion of the mucilage 
 which forms the epidermis of the ftalks, having 
 been baked by the heat of the fun, is fo ex- 
 tremely hard that lixiviums cannot effe6t it. Be- 
 Jiides the foapy matter which can neither be 
 volatilized, nor carried off by alternately water- 
 ing and drying the thread, muff by the volati- 
 lization of the alkali, be transformed into an 
 abforbent earth. Many bleachers ufe lime, 
 and by frequently fprinkling and expofing to the 
 fun, load the thread with this fubftance : it is 
 therefore neceffary to carry it off j which cannot 
 be effefted by wafiiing the thread, becaufe this 
 earth will not diffolve in water. Acids only are 
 capable of deftroying it ; which with the abfor- 
 bent earth compofe a neutral fait, foluble in 
 water, and conlequently may be removed by 
 D d wafiiing 
 
4©a THEARTOF 
 
 wafhing the thread well. The acids commonly 
 ufed are four milk, or an infufion of bran or 
 flour of rye, kept till it becomes four. Some 
 imagine that the four whey makes the thread 
 yellow, caufed by the oleaginous particles of 
 the milk, and therefore prefer the juice of forrel. 
 Thofe who underftand their own intereft have 
 recourfe to the oil of vitriols this, though diluted 
 in a great quantity of water, has the property 
 of completing the whitening of thread. Iri 
 this ftate it cannot pofllbly injure the thread 
 in any refpedt, it detaches the chafFy particles 
 ftill adhering to the thread for want of fufficient 
 maceration, and alfo the earth. 
 
 Preparaiions for Jiuffs to he dyed, 
 
 CONSIDERING the ftate of the arts among 
 the ancients, and comparing them with 
 what they are at prefent, we frequently find 
 that they were ignorant of nothing of what we 
 either know or do. This obfervation of M. Le 
 Comte de Caylus, is particularly true with regard 
 to dying, as the pracftice of our workmen is 
 nearly the fame as that of the Greeks, and that 
 we have even loft fome parts of their art. Pro- 
 bably an attentive confideration of the few hints 
 they have left us, may lead us to the perfedion 
 of the art of dying. 
 
 The Greeks diftinguiftied three operations 
 in dying i the firft, which they called apaiwa-i?, 
 confifted in opening and dilating the pores 
 of the fubjed in order to difpofe it for im- 
 bibing the colour. The fecond, which they 
 4 called 
 
DYING COTTON. 403 
 
 called Pa(p» was the dye itfelf, that is to fay, the 
 dipping into the dying liquor. The third and 
 lad, x°^'^°X^i confifted in fixing the colours by 
 means of certain drugs. They alfo called this 
 operation ru4"? ^^^ ^^^ ingredient employed 
 for this purpofe ru,«/*a, which proves that it 
 had a ftyptic and aftringent quality. 
 
 Their firft operation is reprefented in the art 
 of cleanfing by our Dyers, who aflually opea 
 and dilate the pores of the fubjedl to be dyed. 
 We might perhaps compare the latter to our 
 aluming, fince alum is an aftringent, and as 
 Tournefort tells us that at Gora they ufed a 
 fpecies of garou in the yellow dye, adding to 
 to the infufion of this plant a little alum, 
 called by the people of that country r^-\>r\, 
 I neverthelefs believe that the operation indi- 
 cated by the terms xaxEp^rat and cyj(ptTaiy was 
 independent of aluming, and that it is more 
 analogous to that cuftom of our Dyers in ufing 
 for fome colours fumach, agaric, galls, and 
 other aftringents. Their adion indeed confifts 
 in crifping and contrafling the fibres of the 
 fubjeft to which they are applied; hence it 
 follows that the folid particles of thefe 
 fibres are approximated, and the force of their 
 cohefion confiderably augmented. The fub- 
 ftance of the body thus a61:ed upon muft necefla- 
 rily become more firm and compa6l, and there- 
 fore more capable of refifting the adion of 
 the air and of the {d\t%y by which thofe falts, 
 already inclofed, might be difcompofed. 
 
 This operation was alfo pradifed in the time of 
 
 the Romans, bv whom it was called colorem alHzare, 
 
 D d 2 For 
 
404 THEARTOF 
 
 For this purpofe their Dyers ufed a fpecies of 
 fticus^ to which Pliny afcribes the property 
 of fixing the colours on wool fo effed:ually 
 as never to be renaovcd. Many of our fucus's 
 are abundantly fupplied with phlogifton, the 
 combination of which, with the falts, might 
 produce this eifefb. The fucus growing on the 
 coaft of England, analifed by M. Home, feems 
 to be of this nature. It contains, fays this 
 chymifl, more fait than any plant I know; 
 but it contains alfo another fubftance (doubt- 
 lefs phlogifton) that makes it incapable of 
 whitening, efpecially fine linen, though already 
 tolerably white. Bleachers have remarked 
 that it communicates to linen a yellow colour. 
 The fame author obferves, that having dried, 
 burnt, and kept this fu£us in fufion for more 
 than two hours, he obtained from the quantity 
 burnt three ounces and a half of afbes, which 
 when wafhed in three pints of cold water, pro- 
 duced by evaporation five drachms and forty- 
 fix grains of cryflalifed fait, containing marine 
 fait, fulphur, and alkali. The liquor being 
 entirely evaporated, there remained four 
 drachms and a half of a yellow fait, which 
 appeared to be a very Itrong alkali; He made 
 an infufion of the fame afhes in warm water, 
 boiled it, and during the evaporation, a piece 
 of white linen which he had put into it for half 
 an hour, contrafted a colour that he could never 
 afterwards remove. This liquor when evapo- 
 rated, gave him four drachms of a black bitter 
 fait. From thefe refults he concluded that thefe 
 ?ifiies contained fomething kfs than one-fourth 
 
 of 
 
DYING COTTON. 405 
 
 of .flilphur [phlogijion united to marine Jalty and 
 not Julphiir\ the fame quantity of marine fait, 
 about a fourth of alkaline fait, and a little 
 more than a fourth of earth. 
 
 From thefe obfervations we may conclude, 
 firft, that the burning of this fea-weed might 
 be attended with greater advantage, and which 
 may doubtlefs be found on the coafts of Britany 
 and Normandy. Thefe alhes are fold in Eng- 
 land for one pound fterling the thoufand weight. 
 Secondly, that the fixed colour, with which 
 the phlogifton contained in thefe aflies pene- 
 trates the linen, might be a better and more 
 efficacious preparation for dying than the nut- 
 galls ufed in the black dye for wool and filk, 
 and for dying of cotton. The phlogifton con- 
 tained in the nutgalls being lefs adhefive becaufe 
 of its oily nature, and I make no doubt that 
 it will be almoft univerfally allowed that this 
 fucus is the true alga which Pliny alTerts to be 
 fo ufeful in the fixing of dyes. 
 
 JJlringents, 
 
 UNDER the denomination of aftrlngents, 
 I comprehend all faks that are dilTolved 
 in water for the impregnation of ftuffs, which 
 folutions the Dyers call boilings. Thefe are 
 principally alum, lime, marine fait, nitre, 
 fal-ammonjac, tartar, fixed and volatile alkalies, 
 and the various metallic falts. 
 
 The utility of lime in dying has been long 
 
 known, though we are ftill ignorant of its 
 
 liature. It was ufed by Dyers in Pliny's time, 
 
 P d 3 under 
 
4o6 T H E A R T O F 
 
 under the name of Lapis Phrygius \_See Pliny^ 
 L. 36, Cap. 19, Se5f. ^^^ andDioJc L. 5, Cap. 41.] 
 It is mod commonly ufed in the paftel and 
 indigo vats intended for dying cold; but it 
 extends to many other operations in the hands 
 of thofe who are acquainted with its efFefts. 
 It feems deftined by the author of nature for 
 binding and uniting together two of the greateft 
 oppofites, falts and earth. Fire makes it foluble 
 in water, and therefore eafily ufed; but it 
 again becomes indifibluble by the contadl and 
 influence of the air. Thefe properties render 
 it capable of forming, when united to other 
 matter, an unalterable cement. We know 
 feveral mixtures of this nature of which lime 
 is the balls, and that in confequence of thefe 
 properties, it confirms the folidity of many 
 colours. 
 
 If lime has the power of fixing colours, alum 
 has, befides that, the property of attrafting the 
 colouring particles. This property was not 
 unknown to the ancients, [JeePl. L. 35, Se5}. 15,] 
 "vrho ufed alum in their dying. Whether we 
 are indebted to chance for the difcovery, or 
 whether to rational enquiry, which having 
 found in alum or in the earth of alum, the 
 property of imbibing colouring principles with 
 more avidity than calcarious earth, I am igno- 
 rant. It is, however, certain that what they 
 called Creta argentaria^ Salunifia, anulariay were 
 fpecies of marl of the nature of argillacious 
 earth, fuch as the earth of alum. Thefe fub- 
 fiances were coloured with different matters, 
 as we find by Pliny and Vitruvius^ by (leeping 
 
 theni 
 
DYING COTTON. 407 
 
 them in coloured infufions, with which they 
 became much fooner faturated than wool, [fee 
 Pliny.'] We may prefume that this obfervation 
 was the firfl ftep towards perfeftion in the art, 
 as it put them upon feeking the means of intro- 
 ducing the particles of this earth into the pores 
 of the wool, and thereby difpofing it to imbibe 
 the colour more readily. Alum, the acid of 
 which holds this earth in folution, furniflied the 
 means of afFefling it. They diftinguifh two 
 kinds, roch and Roman alum. The firft being 
 the cheapeft, is always ufed for blues and the 
 colours inclining to black, but this being liable 
 to contain fome particles of iron, the Roman 
 alum is preferred for lively colours, becaufc it 
 contains nothing that can tarnifh their brightnefs. 
 The whitenefs of its earth renders the colours 
 more bright, and its tenacity, produced by a 
 certain unduofity with which it is combined, 
 more folid. The plaftic quality of this earth 
 makes it take the form of the pores of the 
 fubje(5t to be dyed : a greater permanency of 
 colour muft neceflarily enfue. 
 
 They alfo in dying ufe nitre, marine fait, 
 fal-ammoniac, and tartar, not indeed as aftrin- 
 gents, but as alterants. The three firft cer- 
 tainly fadden the reds, giving them a crimfon 
 tinge; the tartar and other acids produce an 
 effed quite contrary; they enliven by inclining 
 the colour to orange. 
 
 Neutral falts, with a metallic bafis, ferve 
 
 lefs to produce folidity than to give flrength 
 
 to the colour J for it is known that colouring 
 
 D d 4 fubftances 
 
4o8 THEARTOF 
 
 fubflances vary their Ihadc according to the 
 nature of the metallic earths by which they are 
 attracted. The earth of alum poileffes this qua- 
 lity for no other reafon perhaps than becaufe of 
 its metallic nature. Tvv^o amongfl the neu- 
 tral falts having a metallic bafis, unite with an 
 aflringent quality that of an alterant, and are moft 
 commonly ufed; thefe are 'copperas or vitriol of 
 Mars, and blue vitriol or vitriol of copper j they 
 feem to owe this to their aftringency. 
 
 theory of dying fluffs prepared with alum, 
 
 "Vk/V Macquer obferves \_Mem. de UAcad. des 
 -*-^-*-* Sciences^ 1762] that as foon as the earth 
 of alum is moiftened, it greedily imbibes all 
 the oily, and confequently colouring, parti- 
 cles of the bodies in conta6t. This property 
 indicates, in this fpecies of earth, a ftrong 
 difpofition to combine with the principle of 
 inflammability and to retain it moft forcibly. The 
 earth of alum therefore pofTefles the property 
 of attrading the colouring particles. The 
 caufe of this attraction we do not knows but 
 fince the efFefl is certain let us confine ourfelve^ 
 to that confideration, regardlefs of the caufe. 
 Suffice it therefore, in our explanation of the 
 theory of dyes wherein alum is ufed as ain 
 aftringent, to explain the conditions neceflary 
 to the attradlion of bodies. It is requifite, firft, 
 that the power of attraflion be reciprocal in 
 both bodies : fecondly, that they fhould be 
 placed at a diftance from each other propor- 
 tioned to their force of attraftion: thirdly, that 
 3 this 
 
DYING COTTON. 409 
 
 this force be fuperior to that with which one 
 pf the bodies is attraded by the fluid in which 
 it is fupended. 
 
 It is therefore necelTary for dying of fluffs, 
 that the dye fhould confift of corpufcules fuf- 
 pended in a liquid, in {\ich a manner that they 
 may be feparated by a fubflance which has 4 
 greater affinity, than the water, with thefe minute 
 bodies. Earth of alum is this fubftance for 
 the colouring particles in the good dye. There 
 are colouring fubftances which the earth of 
 alum does not attradV, but which have ftill 
 lefs affinity with water than thofe requiring the 
 aftringency of alum, fo that they enter the 
 pores of the fluffs without its affiflancej but 
 of this I fliall fpeak hereafter. Concerning 
 the colouring particles of the good dye, and which 
 require the Huffs to be alumed, thei^ particles fix 
 to the earth of alum by the power of attradlion, 
 and at the fame time the acid of the alum is 
 fcftened by its combination with the principle^ 
 of thefe particles, this acid having ferved merely 
 as a vehicle for dillributing equally into all the 
 pores of the fluff that earth which it held in a^ 
 jl:ate of the greatell poffible divifibility. 
 
 In my examination of various colouring 
 fubftances I developed this theory, which I hope 
 to demonflrate, and which I think preferable 
 to the fyitems of my predeceffors en this fubjedt. 
 Notwithftanding the deference diw to their 
 opinion in every refped, I could never con- 
 ceive that falts however hard, fuch as vitri^ 
 olated or crude tartar, could maintain their 
 liability in the pores of the fluffi however 
 
 fmall 
 
4-10 THE ART OF 
 
 fmall the quantity foluble in water, it would 
 be difficult to prevent wafhing from carrying 
 off a great portion of the fait, and confequently 
 of the colour, or to prevent it from being 
 injured by the decompofition of thefe falts: 
 whereas fixed earth, fuch as that of lime and 
 alum, which from its nature obflinately re- 
 taining the phlogiftic principles of all co- 
 ours, muft neceffarily produce colours incapa- 
 ble of being deftroyed but by the ftrongeft 
 acids. 
 
 Of colouring Jul fiances, 
 
 NO one is ignorant at prefent that colours 
 depend on phlogifton; that from its diffe- 
 rent modification and various mixtures with 
 oils, earths, and falts, and from the quality and 
 quantity of thefe three principles, refults the 
 diverfity of colours. It is alfo known that by 
 the fimple addition of any fait to an oily, vege- 
 table, colouring fubftance, you may change 
 or totally expel its colour; becaufe any fait, 
 fimple or compound, deftroying by the laws 
 of affinity the combination then fubfifting, the 
 rays of light are diff'erently reflefbed. Sub- 
 fiances, the colour of which cannot be altered 
 by any fait, are therefore moll probably thofe 
 where phlogifton is in perfefl combination with 
 the other principles. A perfcfl knowledge of 
 this combination would doubtlefs guide us, by an 
 analyfis of the colouring fubftances for the good 
 dye, to artificial compofitions, in like manner 
 as we make artificial cinnabar, for example, in 
 confequence of our knowledge of the principles 
 
 of 
 
DYING COTTON. 411 
 
 of native cinnabarj we fhoiild then have more 
 hopes than we now have of bringing drugs, 
 yielding the falfe tind, to be equally durable 
 with thofe of the good dye. But though we 
 know, even to a certainty, the effefbs produced 
 by falts on certain oils; that we can deconnpofe 
 fome colouring fubftances and feparate their 
 principles, it remains to be known, in what 
 manner thefe principles are combined, and con- 
 fequently we are reduced to the neceffity of 
 endeavouring to improve thofe given us by 
 nature. Our want of knowledge in this parti- 
 cular fiiould not be regretted, fince the drugs 
 for the good dye are fisch only, becaufe they 
 are incapable of decompofition, and that the 
 end propofed in the fixing of colours, is an- 
 fwered only by combining them with other 
 principles, in fuch a manner as to render a de- 
 compofition impofiible. 
 
 The various colours exifting in vegetable and 
 animal fubfrances, are fome of them vifible 
 in the body by which they are furnifhed, and 
 others concealed and manifeftcd only by the 
 adlion of various falts. The manner of deve- 
 loping thefe colours conftitutes a part of the 
 art of dying; neverthelefs Dyers do not always 
 take this trouble, whether becaufe the compo- 
 fition be infufficient to make it worth while, 
 or whether becaufe the fubftances furnilhing 
 thefe colours are exoticks. 
 
 The Dyers therefore buy all their colours 
 developed; chiefly the blue drug called indigo, 
 that extrafted from the Ricincides, known by the 
 pame of Tournfbl i the red colour, produced by 
 
 various 
 
412 THEARTOF 
 
 various fpecies of lychnis with which the archil 
 pafle is made, &c. The number of thefc 
 colouring fecula might doubtlefs be confide- 
 rably augmented. We fhall mention by way 
 of example the milky juice of the wild lettuce 
 with prickly fides, and that of the fweet and 
 thorny fow-thiftle, which with a lixivium gives 
 a fire or carnation colour, very lively, but 
 which foon degenerates into a fixed yellow. 
 Secondly, the juice of wild Patience or Dragons 
 blood, the crimfon colour of which turns to a 
 blue that may be fixed. Thirdly, the common 
 caterpiller of the white thorn, by means of 
 a lixivium gives a purple colour. Fourthly, 
 the amber colourtdi Jcolopandriumy gives an azure 
 colour tolerably fixed. Fifthly, the purple ex- 
 tracted in Sweden from the wild marjoram. 
 Sixthly, feveral fpecies of lychnis's furnilh 
 yellow colours, &c. &c. I mention thefe fub- 
 ftances for thofe only who, having leifure and 
 curiofity to make thefe experiments, may find 
 the means of extracting their colours with ad- 
 vantage. The arts can arrive at no perfeflioa 
 but by adding new difcoveries to thofe that were 
 made before us i Nunquam invemunlur, ft content i 
 fiiermus invent is. Sen. Ep. 23* 
 
 The concealed colours, which the Dyers are 
 in the habit of extracting themfelves, are the 
 blue colour of woad, that extracted from log- 
 v/ood, the fimple infufion of which is a dark 
 purple, the red colour of the root of madder, 
 that of the flowers of baftard faffron, &c. 
 
 Every colour necelTarily fuppofes a folid body 
 of which it is a modification. For water whicl> 
 
 makes 
 
DYING COTTON. 413 
 
 makes a principal part of the juices of roots, 
 leaves, flowers, fruits of certain plants, of 
 animal fluids, fuch as urine, blood, bile, &c. 
 this water I fay, is in itfelf not fufceptible of 
 any colour, only in as much as it holds in a 
 ftate of emulfion the colouring particles, infi- 
 nitely divided. 
 
 Pliny tells us, that our ancient Gauls extra<5led 
 from thefe juices the colours which the Romans 
 fought for at the bottom of the fea, and in fad 
 we find in this author the names of many plants 
 which are no longer ufed in dying. A great 
 number may alfo be found in botanical authors, 
 ancient and modern. The perufal of thefe 
 works excites the curiofity of thofe who are 
 but little converfant in the principles of dying. 
 Seduced by the beauty and brightnefs of the 
 colours of thefe plants, they fancy they have 
 made fome difcovery, and infert it in the peri- 
 odical journals^ without refleding that thefe 
 juices were difcontinued in confequence of better 
 knowledge, when our anceftors, enlightened by 
 their intercourfe with other nations, difcovered 
 fubflances imparting more folid dyes. Pliny 
 obferves with reafon, that the dye of thefe 
 vegetables will not (land the wafhing [Tr^^«^/«i? 
 Gallia Her bi Tyrium at que conchy Hum tingii omnefq-y^ 
 alios color es— 'Jed culpa, non ahluiuju, PL L. 22, 
 Se£f. 3.] Their juices are in fa6t nothing more 
 than a liquid coloured with eflfential oils, and 
 converted into a kind of foap either by an alkali 
 Of a neutral fait. They are therefore incapable 
 of giving more than the falfe dye, becaufe thefe 
 foapy compofitions always retain their charade- 
 
 riftick 
 
414 THE ART OF 
 
 rifteric of folubility in water j for their colour 
 is foon loft by the effefl of the air, owing to the 
 volatile principle of the eflential oil. If even my 
 hypothefis on the nature of thefe juices be re- 
 je£led, the volatility of their colours will effec- 
 tually prohibit their ufe, fince neither alum nor 
 any other matter can fix them. 
 
 We muft not be furprifed at it; but on feeing 
 thefe colouring juices, one would be apt to fay 
 that the fluid itfelf was coloured, fo exceedingly 
 minute are the colouring particles therein fuf- 
 pcnded, and confequently fo great their affinity 
 with it. This affinity being fuperior to the force 
 with which the colouring particles and the earth 
 of alum mutually change each other, the attrac- 
 tion between them cannot take effccft. Thus we fee 
 that the dyes extracted from thefe juices acquire 
 no degree of {lability by previoufly aluming the 
 fluffs; becaufe the earth of the alum remains 
 colourlefs within the pores, together with the 
 colouring particles ; but without uniting with 
 them. Or, if even the alum were coloured, 
 water would immmediately wafh off the colouring 
 particles. 
 
 I do not fay that there is no poflible method 
 of rendering thefe drugs more permanent; for ex- 
 ample, by introducing abforbent earths within 
 the pores of the ftuff, or by adding acids 
 to the colouring juices, which would decompofe 
 the foap, and facilitate the union of the colouring 
 particles with the earth. But it may happen 
 that this decompofiton would entirely deftroy the 
 colour or change it to another. Such experi- 
 ments have been hitherto neglefted, in confe- 
 
 quence 
 
DYING COTTON. 415 
 
 quence of the facility of extradling the fame 
 colours from fubftances requiring lefs trouble; 
 the uncertainty of fuccefs, and the little advan- 
 tage that might refult from fuch experiments. 
 
 Animals furnifli but few of the colourino' 
 juices, and if they did, it is eafy to perceive 
 by an examination of the bile and blood, that 
 they would be no better than the vegetable juices 
 juft mentioned. 
 
 Since therefore neither vegetable juices nor 
 animal fluids are capable of giving us permanent 
 dyes, let us endeavour to obtain them from folid 
 colouring fubftances — namely from thofe animals 
 who are endued with colour, or from fuch par- 
 ticles as had previoufly conftitutcd fome part of 
 the texture of different plants. Thus with regard 
 to ingredients for colouring, thofe ufed by the 
 dyer are of the fame nature as thofe ufed by the 
 Painter, differing only in the manner of operation, 
 as it is fufficient for the painter, if the colourino- 
 particles be depofited on the furface of his 
 fubjedt j but with regard to the Dyer, they mufl 
 be inclofed within the pores of his. They flill 
 refemble each other in their attention to preferve 
 their colours from the injuries of the air, though 
 by different means. 
 
 Painting has neverthelefs great advantage over 
 Dying, which is deprived of many of the colour- 
 ing fubftances ufed in the former, fuch as 
 Ultramarine, Zafire, Cinnabar, the various 
 fpecies of Ocre, and in general all the colours 
 taken from the mineral kingdom. The colour- 
 ing particles compofing thefe bodies, minute 
 as they feem, are neverthelefs incapable of being 
 
 attracted 
 
4i6 THE A kT OF 
 
 attracted by the earth of alum, becaufc they are 
 naturally dry, and that alum attracts only undtu- 
 ous matters; neitheh could they be ufed more fuc- 
 cefsfully without aliimi becaufe though introduced 
 within the pores of the fubject, they never would 
 adhere on account of their drynefs, but would 
 efcape with as much facility as they had en- 
 tered i 
 
 Vegetable and animal fubftances of the good 
 dye, are fuch only, becaufe they are provided^ 
 notwithftanding their deficcation,with a tenacious 
 gluten, produced by a mucilage in the one, and 
 by a glutinous matter in the other, combined with 
 either a vegetable or animal oil. In the dying 
 liquor, thefe principles forma gluten, which in 
 proportion as they are attrafted by the alum, 
 enter the pores of the fubje6l, giving the par- 
 ticles the property of attaching themfelves 
 ftrongly to the alum which had previoufly entered 
 the fame pores, and forming together a real 
 maftic. Now the earth of the aiurrl entering 
 thefe pores was, as I have already faid, in the 
 greateft degree of divifibility. The acid in the 
 compofiiioii exerting its whole power on thd 
 gelatinous oil, and the mucilage forms a 
 cement, which is deftroyed -with difficulty iri 
 proportion to the nature of the different colouring 
 particles; the atoms of the alum, enlarged by 
 this addition, cannot efcape fronri the pores, into 
 which they had been introduced. This cement 
 is, I fay, with difficulty deftroyed, according to 
 the nature of the different particles, becaufe on the 
 different principles of which thofe are compofed,- 
 depends the degree of their (lability, and chiefly 
 
 on 
 
DYING COTTON. 417 
 
 ort the quantity and quality of the oil which 
 they contain. The difference occafioned by 
 this neceffarily makes a difference in the nature 
 of the cement, which, as it is more or lefs flrong, 
 refills in a greater or Icfs degree the aftion of the 
 fun. 
 
 Of Cochineal and other Colouring InJeEis^ 
 
 COCHINEAL is an infed found in Mexico, 
 on a fpecies of the fig-tree, called Opuntia, 
 It is alfo found on many others, and I have 
 obferved it particularly on a tree called Ambrofia 
 Peruviana, which is cultivated in the king's gar- 
 dens. But this yields only a reddifh colour, we 
 may therefore conclude that the fcarlet of the 
 cochineal is owing to the juice of the Opuntia 
 upon which the infeft feeds, and whofe-. prin- 
 ciples combining with thofc of the animal, con- 
 ftitute together but one and the fame fubftance. 
 Animals being compofcd of oil, earth, and vola- 
 tile alkali, the fame principles are alfo extrafted 
 from the cochineal. \^I have my/elf extrafled a pretty 
 confiderahle quantity of oil from the cochineal , and flilt 
 more from the kermes. Should any one doubt concerning 
 my operation, he need only apply to M, M. Geoffry and 
 Margraaff. See Mem. of the Acad. ofSciences'\ It is 
 therefore eafy to conceive why its colour is of the 
 befl dye, the fluffs being previoufly alumed. The 
 volatile alkali of the cochineal, renders the 
 colour bright; the animal oil united to the folid 
 and mucilaginous particles of the infe<5t, produce 
 the firft ingredients of a maftic, which, being com- 
 pleated by the alum, prefervcs the colour from 
 the influence of the air or fun. Hence the 
 E c permanency 
 
4rS THE ART OF 
 
 permanenq^ of this colour, which, with regard 
 to the crimfon extrafted from cochineal, is 
 undoubted, becaufe it is the natural colour of the 
 infcjfl J the greater therefore the deviation from 
 this l^ade. by alterants, the more it lofes of its 
 fixity. 
 
 As the colour depends onth« fhape or figure 
 of the confhituent particles of the colouring 
 bodies, the fliade may be varied by changing their 
 figure, but theperminancy of the colour is at the 
 fame time diminiflied, becaufe it is impoflible ta 
 produce this change without altering the principles 
 to which they owe their permanency j this is the 
 cafe with the cochineal. Acids and alkalies 
 eafily vary the fliades of its colour, 
 
 Thefe fhades are faddened by volatile alkalies 
 more than by any other, but thefe are feldom 
 ufed on account of their price. Fixed alkalies 
 alfo fadden, inclining them topurplein proportion 
 to the quantity ufed. Thefe falts produce tliis 
 efFe6^, becaufe they are the natural folvents of 
 animal iubftances; which however they are inca- 
 pable of difiblving without combin-ation caufing 
 only a decompofition without the diffipa- 
 t ion of any principle. This combination gives 
 to the colouring particles a degree of denfity, 
 which they had not, incling them to black, oc- 
 eafioned by a- greater refradion of the rays o£- 
 light. Acids on the contrary, and efpecially 
 mineral acid, burn the oil, and abforb the phlo- 
 gifton, which is the principle of colours : by the 
 violence of their adbion, a part of the phlogiftoa. 
 and volatile alkali, evaporates j the colouring; 
 matter becomes more rarified, and refleding a. 
 
 greater 
 
DYING COTTON. 419 
 
 greater number of the rays of light, it necelTa- 
 rily acquires a colour nearly yellow, and even 
 ?f more be added quite yellow, which is of 
 all colours the neareft to white or tranfparency. 
 
 It is not therefore the cuflom to ufe fixed 
 alkali in the cochineal liquor when dying with 
 this fubftance. It would make too great an 
 alteration in its confiftence, and, by mixing 
 with the animal oil, form a foap that would 
 fender the colour mifcible in water, confequently 
 of the falfe tint j becaufe, not then capable of 
 forming a maftic, the oil, occupied by the 
 alkali, being no longer at liberty to combine 
 with the earth of alum j it may however be ufed 
 with advantage, arid without danger after the ftuffs 
 ai'e dyed, becaufe then the maftick being already 
 formed, this menftruum has not fufficicnt power 
 to deftroy it, unlefs by putting too large a 
 ijukntity. 
 
 The aflion of acids is more deflruftive than 
 that of the alkalies j vitriolic acid, v/hen for- 
 rtierlyufed in the cochinealliquor, laddened rather 
 than brightened; becaufe the common oil of 
 vitriol, which is feldom free from fome particles 
 of iron, formed in the liquor a kind of Prufliari 
 blue, which, mixing with the red particles com- 
 municated a purple tinge. [^Cochineal hoiled with 
 Kxiater in an iron vejfelj 'will have a purple tinge. "^ 
 Spirit of nitre has been fince ufed, but the 
 the aftion of this acid on oils and phlogillon 
 being much ftronger than the firft, it was judged 
 proper to give it a bafis on which it might in 
 fart exhauft itfelf, and by communicating part 
 E e 2 of 
 
420 THEARTOF 
 
 of its phlogifton, render it lefs greedy of the 
 cochineal. 
 
 This bafis is tin: it was formerly diflblved 
 by fpirit of nitre, but fince by aqua-regia, 
 which was found to diflblve it more completely. 
 This folution is not ufed in the fame manner as 
 that of alum, by diluting in water and then 
 dipping the fluffs previous to their being dyed. 
 This preparation would not be fufficient, for 
 by diluting in a great quantity of water, a 
 part of the calx of tin would precipitate and 
 be reduced to atoms larger than when difTolved 
 in acids, efpecially if ufed alone and feparate 
 from the dycj the acid in that cafe not adling 
 on the colour fufficiently to enliven it: Only 
 part of this folution therefore is added to 
 the cochineal liquor, and the acid then aban- 
 doning the tin and combining with the oil of 
 the cochineal, the calx of the metal feizes the 
 colouring particles whilfl precipitating, and 
 together, as M. Helot obferves, forms a kind 
 of lacker which infinuates into the pores of the 
 iluff, and is there retained by a gluten given 
 by the ftarch which was added to the dying 
 liquor. From this explication it is cafy to com- 
 prehend why the fcarlet dye is much lefs folid 
 than the crimfon. The lacker being much dryer 
 than the fimple colouring particles of the 
 cochineal, is, in this ftate, nearer to the nature 
 of the mineral colours. The oil and the ani- 
 mal gluten, which in the crimfon dye form 
 with the earth of alum a maflic, are deflroyed 
 by the acid, and the flarch then added is an 
 infufficient fubftitute. 
 
 What 
 
DYING COTTON. 421 
 
 What I have here faid of the caufe of the 
 fixity of cochineal after the ftufFs have been 
 prcvioufly alumed, applies equally to gum- 
 lac and kermes, the conftituent parts of which 
 are found by analyfis to be the fame. The 
 kermes has even the advantage of being corn- 
 pofed of ftill finer particles, which more eafily 
 penetrate the pores of the fluff, as I have ex- 
 perienced in filk and cotton. It is well known 
 that filk, on account of the fmallnefs of its 
 pores, takes up only a part of the cochineal, 
 but from the kermes it extracts the whole of 
 the colouring particles, which is alfo more fixed, 
 probably becaufe the fhrub on which the infedt 
 is nourilhed communicates its aftringency or 
 that it contains a greater quantity of oil. Cot- 
 ton, into the pores of which cochineal cannot 
 penetrate, may be dyed with kermes. 
 
 It is to be lamented that the ufe of kermes 
 is abolifhed. It is fuppofed to be fcarce, becaufe 
 it is ufcd only in medicine; it is dearer than it 
 ought to be owing to the fmall quantity col- 
 lefled. But if it were again brought into gene- 
 ral ufe for dying, the price would be conliderably 
 reduced, as the Ihrub on which it feeds requires 
 no cultivation. 
 
 Other infeds were formerly ufcd in dying, 
 but thefe it is unnecefTary to enumerate, as 
 their principles are probably the fame; they 
 are no longer in ufe. About two years ago, in 
 the Gazette de France was announced, a fccret 
 which confided in extracting a red colour from a 
 fpecies of bug. This pretended difcovery re- 
 minds me of an obfervation of Lifter's, commu- 
 E c 3 nicated 
 
422 7 If E Ail T OF 
 
 nicated about one hundred years ago to the 
 Royal Society of London, concerning a red 
 colour that might be obtained from a red infe<i 
 with black fpot§, of the large.r kind, which he 
 calls, Cimex ruber, maculis nigris diftin^uSy Juper 
 folia Hyafciami frequens. This bug is found in 
 great quantity in the month of May, on a 
 ipecies of Henbane. Lifter thinks it probable 
 that this infed was nouriihed by the undtuous 
 matter with which the leaves of the fhrub werQ 
 gummed, and which ftuck to the hand when 
 touched. He adds, that towards the latter en4 
 of May, or rather earlier, the eggs of this 
 infeft were found adhering to the upper part of 
 the leaves. Thefe eggs were of an oblong form 
 and orange colour. In the body of the worm 
 they appeared white, and continued of the fame 
 colour even after they were laid, though they 
 generally acquired a darker colour when near 
 being hatched. They produced thefe bugs 
 •which never became worms. Thefe eggs, if 
 broken on a bit of paper, when mature, ftained 
 it, without requiring any kind of fait, the moft 
 beautiful fcarlet or fire .'^olpur that could pofti- 
 bly be conceived, n: *J-. 
 
 Thefe eggs will doubtlefs remind us qi thofe 
 difcoyered by M. Reaumur on the coaft of Poic- 
 tou, and in v/hich he found the property of a 
 moft beautifuj and permanent red colour . Th^ 
 account is to be met with in the mjemoirs of 
 the Academy of Sciences for the year 17 1 1. 
 
 It were certainly right not to negledt the dif- 
 covcrifift of naturalifts, and it were alfo to be 
 wilbcd that thefe difcoveries might give rife to 
 
 decifivQ 
 
DYI>JG. COTTON. 1223 
 
 tdecifive experiments. But how can we prefLime 
 to hope this, whilft we Iiave the cochineal im- 
 ported to us from foreign countries and at a 
 great cxpence, notwithftanding that its dye » 
 lefs permanent than our kermes. Man, naxu- 
 rally idle, fleeps in the midft of enjoyment, 
 and is waked only by the calls of neccffity. 
 When, therefore, at fome revolution, we fhall 
 be prohibited from the wfe of cochineal, or 
 when it becomes dear, we fliall then have re- 
 courfe to the eggs of M. Reaumur, or the 
 henbane bugs, -or rather rcfume the ufe of the 
 kermes, of th« dye of which we are fo well 
 aflured, though too lightly abandoned. The 
 invifible hand of Providence, who preferved 
 the madder in our hedges, which we had 
 ceafed to cultivate will preferve for our ufe, 
 the Ikx aculeata and the infed it nourilhes. 
 
 Of Maddin 
 
 ^T^HERE are feveral fpecies -of madder; that 
 ■*- brought from Zealand, called in Latin 
 Ruhia Un^orum^ is the moft in ufe. The Romans, 
 according to Pliny, called it Erj'throdamus, 
 which proves that it was known to give a red 
 colour, and was much ufed by the Greeks. 
 It was ufed in his time for dying wooll and flcins. 
 The Italian madder was the moft eftecmed, par- 
 ticularly that grown in the environs of Rome, 
 and in great quantities in all the provinces of 
 the Roman empire. They diftinguilhed two 
 forts, one wild and the ether cultivated; the 
 iaft was fown in the fame manner as peas. It 
 E e 4 vvas 
 
^44 THEARTOF 
 
 was afterwards called Verantia or Varantia, pro- 
 bably on account of the permanency of its 
 colour, whence originated the word Garance. 
 The ufe of this plant, as we perceive, was very 
 ancient in Italy, fince Pliny lived in the firft 
 century, and it is highly probable that it was 
 equally known in Gaul, which was then under 
 the dominion of the Romans. It is therefore 
 contrary to all reafon, that the author of the 
 Nouvelijie Economique ^ Literaire printed at the 
 Hague, fays that it is fome centuries ago fince 
 it was brought from the Indies into Perfia, from 
 that country to Venice, and from thence by the 
 way of France and Spain, into the united Pro- 
 vinces. It would be difficult to determine 
 whether the fpecies mentioned by Pliny, be the 
 fame which we call Ruhia I'm^orum, efpecially as 
 there are many kinds, and that the roots of feveral 
 Ijpecies of Gallium and in general of all the Rubi- 
 acisc yield a red dye ; the only difference is as 
 they yield more or lefs. 
 
 Diofcorides, when fpeaking of this plant, gives 
 the preference to that of Ravenna, and fays that 
 it was fown in the field amongft the olives. If this 
 be the plant defcribed by Ray \_Rubia Sylvejiari 
 fifperay Ravennencis Zannoni] after*- Zannoni, it 
 appears to be a different genus from any we 
 know, The root of this plant is flender, and 
 about eighteen inches long, its rind is thick, 
 and adhering to the interior part. It fhoots 
 feveral ftraight ftalks, firm, round at the begin- 
 ning, and of a dark colour, which foon take a 
 fquare form and green colour, a little higher at 
 the place where the ieaves are produced j thefe 
 
 ftalk? 
 
DYING COTTON. 425 
 
 ftalks are hollow, furrowed, and from fpace to 
 fpace, furnifhed with knots round which grow the 
 leaves, difpofed in whirls to the number of four, five 
 or fix, an inch long, and two lines broad. Leaves 
 are fmooth at firft, but afterwards become a little 
 downy. Pedicles of the leaves brittle, and red- 
 difli underneath. Flowers compofed of a green 
 calix, with five leaves, and a corolla having five 
 petals of the fame colour. Stamina yellow j root 
 much fpreading, fibres capillary of a dark red 
 colour j thefe fibres throw out yellow and tranf- 
 parent (hoots, producing new plants. It is found 
 near Ravenna in the foreft of Pines. This plant 
 evidently differs from all our known madders. 
 Some years ago I wrote to M. Ginanni, a patri- 
 cian of Ravenna to procure me fome of the feed, 
 withdefign to cultivate it in this country. I hoped 
 that he would have obliged me as he was a 
 member of the fociety of Agriculture at Paris j 
 but I received no anfwer. 
 
 There is another fpecies of madder, different 
 from our RubiaceaSj but common in the Ifle of 
 Candia. Its flowers are in form of a fpike. Bota- 
 nifts have therefore called it Ruhia Spicata. 
 
 In the Indies they make ufe of various kinds 
 of Rubiaceas, in dying thread or cotton — fuch 
 as the chat de Perfe, the Morinda, the Hedyotisy 
 the Rojocj the Chaive. We have imported the 
 roots of this laft, which has great fimilitude to 
 our Synanchine or to the Gallium flore albo. 
 
 The Eaft-India company, fome years ago, 
 imported a root which they c2\\t^MongiJlery of the 
 fizeof aquill, equal throughout its length, about 
 fix feet or longer, in other refpedts refembling 
 
 madder 
 
42b THt ART OF 
 
 madder j they faid it came from the Weft-Indies. 
 The root of the Gallium hitemny obfervcd by 
 M, Guettard on the coaft of Poictou, exactly re- 
 fembled it in form, length and breadth, fo that 
 it is moft probable the Mongijler is a root of the 
 fame plant. 
 
 The blue flowered Gallium ^ and the madder 
 of the Alps, known by the name of Ruhia l^jis 
 ^aurinenfium gave the moll beautiful red to 
 M. TAbbe' Mazeas, in his experiments on the 
 dying of cotton. The common madder cer- 
 tainly yields a greater abundance of colour; but 
 in many manufadories they prefer quality to 
 quantity, the difference however would be of 
 little confequence to the cultivator of any one 
 of thofe plants. It were therefore to be wiihed 
 that we did not, as at prefent, confine ourfelves to 
 the culture of the Dutch and Levant m.adder only. 
 The latter yields a different fhade from that ufed 
 in the Indies, which is rather more crimfon. By 
 cultivating various fpecies of Rubiacea, we might 
 hope to procure a diverfity of fhades: befides the 
 foil, though inimical to one, may agree with 
 another. 
 
 The root of the befl madder has a lively 
 colour, and when powdered and put on blue 
 paper inftantly adheres. Madder when powderecj 
 Should be pafty and unfluous, like that which 
 is imported from Smyrna, Tripoli, and Cyprus, 
 &c. differing only in confequence of fome diffe-r 
 rence in the foil. The Cyprus madder has the 
 moft aromatic fmell, and feels refinous. Its 
 colour is more fixed, darker, but lefs pleafing 
 than that of the others. Madder when ground 
 
 generally 
 
DYING COTTON, 427 
 
 g€in€rally lofes its uiiftuofity in drying, and there- 
 ^re the bed is only good for a year, after which 
 it begins to decline. 
 
 The madder root feems to contain two 
 parts mixed together, though of a different 
 xiatuf-e i the one fubtle and penetrating, fuppofed 
 l)y Hoffman to be of a faline fulphurous nature, 
 ^nd the other earthy and aftringent. Thefe two 
 parts are not intimately combined, in confe- 
 quence of which, like the conftituent parts of 
 jhubarb, they ad feparately. It feems not there- 
 fore accurate to fay, that the colouring principle 
 of the madder is merely of a foapy extractive 
 pature. The faline fulphurous pare is indeed, 
 by nature, foluble in water, and there retains the 
 red particles in a flate of emullion j thefe two 
 parts are however very diftind, and are united 
 only as aggregates. This their effed; in dyingfuf- 
 ^ciently evinces : a fawn colour may be dyed 
 by the epidermis and the heart of the root, 
 which contain the greatell quantity of faline 
 matters on the other hand, the parenchyma 
 alone gives a beautiful red colourj but it is 
 neceffary, in order to render it ftill more pure 
 to deftroy the fawn tinge by which the red is 
 Aillied and from which even the parenchyma is 
 pot exempt. Some experiments which I made on 
 this root confirm this opinion. 
 
 I took fpme of the roots of the madder 
 gathered in the environs of Paris; I dried it in 
 the Ihade and reduced it to powder. A quarter 
 of a pound of this powder I put into a glafs bowl, 
 adding half a ounce of fait of tartar, di/Tolvcd 
 'm twelve gunces of river water. I \^h the whole 
 
 infufing 
 
4*8 THE ART OF 
 
 infufing for three days, frequently ftirring with 
 a flick to facilitate the extrafkion of the colour. 
 I then philtered the red liquor ; I poured it into 
 another bowl, adding water, foured with leven, 
 in a fmall quantity. I covered the liquor, but 
 in fuch a manner as to have a little communica- 
 tion with the external air. The fermentation 
 took place by degrees, and at the end of fix days 
 the liquor which was fawn colour, became tolera- 
 rably clear; a dark red fcdiment remained at the 
 bottom, but very beautiful, having the con- 
 fiftance of a thick balfam. Attempting to wafh 
 it, I perceiveed that it was much inclined to 
 re-diflbve in water, doubtlefs occafioned by a fait 
 with which it remained united. I was then de- 
 termined to pour off by inclination as much of 
 the water as I could. The refiduum which I 
 dried, became of a red brown and of a very hard 
 confidence, fo that when I wanted to ufe it, it 
 was infoluble even in boiling water. I there- 
 fore concluded that the red particles of the 
 madder root were of a rcfinous or bituminous 
 nature. 
 
 To determine which, I took fome frefh roots 
 reduced to powder, pouring on it fome fpirit of 
 wine as high as my two fingers, carefully ftirring 
 the fubftance feveral times during the day. The 
 next day I decanted the red liquor, pouring on 
 it fome frefti fpirit of wine, and ftirring as at 
 firft. I continued to decant and to re-add frefh 
 fpirit, till it was no longer coloured. I then 
 mixed all the coloured liquors together, in order 
 to diftill them per Balneum Man<e in a tin cur- 
 curbite. I drew off about three parts of the fpirit 
 2 which 
 
DYING COTTON. 429 
 
 which was neccflfarily more refbified, but of a 
 reddilh colour. This fpirit and tlie refiduum 
 I put into two feparate bottles ; the refiduum, 
 or extract was of a darker and more pofitive red, 
 than a common decodtion of madder. Some of 
 the folution of fait of tartar poured on this ex- 
 trafl, produced a violet precipitate; oil of 
 vitriol diluted, a yellow, and a mixture of the 
 two produced a good red. In (hort, by pour- 
 ing different folutions of alum, you obtain dif- 
 ferent fliades of red, according as you add 
 chalk, nitre, fugar of lead, or fait of tin ; and 
 all thefe precipitates, when dry are infoluble in 
 Ipirit of wine. 
 
 The firft of thefe experiments proves incon- 
 teftibly that the two colouring parts of the mad- 
 der root are diftinft, and that the red colour of 
 the one is fixed, independent of the other. By 
 the fecond we perceive that thefe two parts 
 though in different ftates, have originally the 
 fame principles and that the fawn-colour part 
 wanted only a certain coftion (probably produced 
 bythedevelopment of itsacid,and the concentration 
 of its other principles, or fuperabundant phlogi- 
 fton) in order to be tranfmuted into the red part. 
 It is certain that though the fpirit of wine I made 
 ufe of wasperfefllydephlegmated, yet there was no 
 pofTibility of giving fire to that which I had drawn 
 off" by diftillation; I am therefore of opinion that 
 all the phlogifton it contained combined with the 
 juice of the madder root. It is alfo certain that 
 the red of the refiduum after diftillation, was as 
 pure as the red of cochineal, and without any 
 
 mixture 
 
430 THE ART OF 
 
 mixture of the fawn. Hence it appears that 
 the phlogifton of the fpirit of wine, in this inftance, 
 produces an effedl fimilar to that of animal 
 fiuids on the madder dye, and that the laft 
 ferves only to augment its brightnefs and not 
 its permanency. 
 
 I fhall refume this fubjeft when I come td 
 {peak of the dying of cotton. 
 
 The red part of the madder root may* 
 therefore be confidered as a fixed oil, inti- 
 itiately combined with an acid, which gives it? 
 the confidence of a balfam, nearly approaching 
 to the nature of bitumen. This fubftance we 
 find acquires ftill more confiftence when united 
 to the earth of alum. The little power of the 
 acid and alkaline falts on this drug, when en- 
 tered into the pores of a well prepared cotton, 
 is a conclufive demonflration, with my experi- 
 ments, that this fubftance is of the nature of 
 bitumen, or at leaft that, by its combination 
 ■with alum, it acquires that nature. 
 
 Of Vegetables- furniJiDing a Tellow Dye. 
 
 A FTER analyfing feveral vegetables furnifh- 
 -^^ ing yellow of the good dye, the quantity 
 of oil extradled was too fmall to fuppofe that 
 k could by its union with the earth of alum,^ 
 as in the fubftances I have juft mentioned, form 
 an unalterable maftic. But even in this parti- 
 cular inftance, nature in withholding feems to 
 favour US; for there is no colour from which 
 tlie dyers fo eafily procure a permanent dye. 
 Plants yielding this colour are very common, 
 and the- little alteration produced by the falts 
 3 renders 
 
DYING COTTON. 431 
 
 renders It as eafy to fix as to find. Yellow being 
 the neareft to white, is produced by, the 
 refi-ad:ion of but a very fmall number of the rays 
 of light. Plants containing this colour are ac 
 the fame time provided with a confiderable 
 abundance of mucillage, which combining 
 with the alum, retains the particles within the 
 pores of the fubjed. The oil, which preferves 
 other colours from the aflion of the aerial acid, 
 is of no ufe with regard to yellow, fince any 
 other colour is changed into this by the efFedt 
 of acids, and that yellow flowers are very little 
 if at all changed by alkaline or urinous falts. 
 To thefe caufes therefore may be attributed 
 the fixity of the yellow of the good dye; and 
 that this colour is only fo in reality when the 
 plants produce it pure, and without any mixture 
 of red or blue. The yellow particles of other 
 plants, inclining either to green or orange, arc 
 of the falfe tind. 
 
 Neverthelefs thofe yellows which I call of 
 the good dye, are not fo, if tryed by the com- 
 mon procefs, no more than the red of cochineal, 
 of kermes, &c. on wool, filk, and cotton 
 fluffs, which ought not to be lixiviated; it 
 is fufficient if they refill the adion of the 
 air and fun. There are particular methods 
 of fixing colours flill more folidly on filk 
 and cotton, of which I fliall fpeak hereafter, 
 and for this reafon, I fay, that we fhould dif- 
 tinguifh different degrees of the good dye. But 
 that is not now the queflion : at prefent we have 
 only to explain the theory of the good dye, 
 fuch as it is for wool and fiik. 
 
 Of 
 
432 THEARTOF 
 
 Of the colouring drugs ufed in dying without 
 ojiringents, 
 
 pASTEL, Woad, orGuefde (in Latin GlaJ^ 
 ^ turn) is a plant from which is cxtraded a 
 blue of the beft dye. It appears to be a native 
 of France, particularly of the provinces of 
 Normandy and Bretagne, according to the 
 teftimony of Pliny and Julius Csefar. The firft 
 fays, that in France they called it Glajluyn [PL 
 L. iij Se5i. 2.] a plant refembling a plantain, 
 with which the women of Bretagne rubbed their 
 bodies on feftival days, and walked quite naked 
 like negroes. We read alfo in Casfar's Commen- 
 taries, that the Britons painted their faces blue 
 with the juice of this herb, called alfo vitrum, 
 that they might appear more horrible in battle. 
 In france we have hitherto diftinguifhed only 
 two fpecies of indigenous plants capable of dying 
 blue of the permanent dye, namely, the culti- 
 vated and the wild i/atis. Many botanifts even 
 aflTert that the firft is only a variety of the 
 fecond; but I think we may be authorifed in 
 confidering them as two diftinft fpecies, efpe- 
 cially as the leaves of the cultivated i/atis are 
 much larger than thofe of the wild, which is 
 by no means the effedt of culture, fince both 
 Ipecies are preferved in the king's garden, where 
 they are ftill the fame; as the feeds of the wild 
 ifatis are fmaller than thofe of the cultivated, 
 and that thofe of the one are yellow, and of 
 the other violet. We find in the Dentelaire a 
 third plant analogous to the ifatis, which is the 
 Plumbago of Pliny, and the Lepidium of Gafper 
 
 Bauhins 
 
DYING COTTON. 433 
 
 Bauhinj the Engli/h call it Glajium Syhejire, 
 The leaves of this plant are indeed fonnething like 
 thofe of the Ifatis, only that they are (lightly fer- 
 rated: flowers purple j feed, the pericarpium of 
 which is green, contains a juice which rubbed 
 on paper inftantly ftains it of a purpleifh blue, ' 
 which as it dries becomes much darker. Thefe 
 feeds dried and infufcd in water give a beautiful 
 blue colour. The leaves of this plant, like 
 thofe of the Ifatis, have an acrid and hot tafte, 
 and like thofe redden blue paper but very little, 
 a proof that they contain but a fmall quan- 
 tity of acid, and a great deal of volatile alkali. 
 I have no doubt but by treating them like paf* 
 tel a blue colour may be extrafled. 
 
 The fourth plant is the Scabius with blue 
 flowers, Scahiojaj folio inUgrOy glabra ^ fiore caru- 
 IcOy very common in meadows: root truncated 
 near the bafe, and for this reafon fometimes 
 called Morjus Diaholiy or Devil's bite ; becaufe 
 the ancients fuppofed that the devil^ envied the 
 human race on account of the virtues of this 
 plant. Its leaves are of a dark green colour; 
 flowers a beautiful blue, alfo dark. The Swedes 
 prefer gathering the leaves in the month of 
 May, becaufe they then contain juice in great 
 abundance: they are ufed for dying of woolen 
 fliuffs, to which they communicate a beautiful 
 green colour, and are prepared for this pur- 
 pofe in the fame manner as the Ifatis. 
 
 The method of preparing this lafl: has been 
 
 long fince known, and defcribed in feveral 
 
 works both ancient and modern. It confifts in 
 
 difuniting the integral parts by fermentation, 
 
 F f which 
 
434- THEARTOF 
 
 which developcs and feparates the blue feculence 
 
 from the other parts of the plant. 
 
 This plant formerly conftituted a principal 
 revenue in Languedoc, Normandy, and feveral 
 of the provinces of Germany. It not only 
 sives the moft beautiful blue colour to fluffs, 
 but its dye ferves alfo as a ground for many 
 other colours, rendering them on account of 
 its volatile fait much more adhefive. The ex- 
 iftence of this fait in the paftel, is fufHciently 
 demonflrable by the drops which flick to the 
 boards where the paflel is prepared, but yet 
 more by its urinous fmell. 
 
 The dye of the Ifatis and other analogous 
 plants, is of the number of thofe whofe colour 
 is not obvious, but requires to be developed by 
 a faline agent. But what is the nature of this 
 feculence, confifling in itfelf of fo many parts, 
 and fo intimately combined together that it is 
 not in the power of fermentation to def^roy 
 their union ? We know nothing pofitive of this 
 matter-, but the knowledge we obtain concern- 
 ing the principles of plants by analyfis, autho- 
 rifes conjedures, the probability of which is 
 almofl equivalent to demonflration. 
 
 M. GeofFroy [fee memoirs of the Academy of 
 Parisy 1707,] attributes the green colour of the 
 leaves of plants to a rarefied oil, mixed with 
 the volatile and fixed falts of foap, which 
 remain attached to the earthy particles, while 
 the greater part of the aqueous matter flies off. 
 This conjeflure feems fo much the better founded, 
 as it accords with his experiments on the oil of 
 thyme. Now if we fuppofe that the foap is a, 
 
 compofition 
 
DYING COTTON. 435 
 
 compofition of water, falts, oil, and phlogifton, 
 we can eafily account for the leaves of plants 
 changing colour. 
 
 It has been obferved that the aqueous and 
 faline principles predominate in vegetables 
 during the fpring, but in the fummer and au- 
 tumn, the oil. In the firft feafon, the green of 
 of the leaf is rather blue, which in fummer 
 fiies off, and during the autumn it becomes at 
 laft yellow. The reafon of this is doubtlefs 
 that, in fpring, from the refult of the combi- 
 nation of the falts with the phlogifton, a blue 
 colour is compofed, which appears darker or 
 lighter in proportion to the quantity of the 
 alkali interfperfed in the aqueous juice of the 
 plant, in which fwims tlie refinous or earthy 
 compofition of the blue colour. 
 
 During the fummer the heat of the fun car- 
 rying off the more volatile parts of the falts 
 and phlogifton, there confequently remains only 
 a part of the latter, which, joined to the alkali, 
 would form a compound of a yellow colour, as 
 all phlogifticated alkalis m^uft in this feafon, if the 
 foap did not continually furnifti a frefh fupply 
 of falts and phlogifton, which partly repairs 
 the lofs refulting from the evaporation occafioned 
 by the heat of the fun. In the autumn, on the 
 contrary, when the fap no longer repairs this 
 wafte, the colour of the leaves muft necelTarily 
 become yellow. 
 
 Plants furniftiing blue fecul^e, muft therefore 
 abound in falts, oil, and phlogifton. The colour- 
 ing principle refiding in the Ifatis, is nothing more 
 than a combination of phlogifton with the falts, 
 F f 2 oil. 
 
436 THEARTOF 
 
 oil, and earth j and as M. Hellot obferves, 
 there are probably many plants of the fame 
 clafs that would furnifh the fame feculse. This 
 charadler depends no doubt on the quality of 
 the oil contained in the plant, or the falts with 
 which it is combined, but above all on the quan- 
 tity of phlogifton. 
 
 It is polTible to extract from a great number 
 of plants, by fermentation, a black tenacious 
 oil and a volatile fair, perfectly urinous and 
 extremely penetrating, efpecially when recti- 
 fied; in no refpect differing either in tafte or 
 fmell from volatile fpirit of hartfhorn, or of 
 blood, or of fal-ammoniac, \^Jee trans. Phil. 
 Ann. 1674.] In order to extract thefe princi- 
 ples, a large quantity of the leaves /hould be 
 collected in warm weather; they fhould be ga- 
 thered from the highefl; (talks, and heaped pretty 
 dole together. This heap quickly heats, efpe- 
 cially in the middle, and the whole, except the 
 exterior leaves, is refolved into a kind of pafte, 
 which when formed into little balls, is diftilled 
 in a glafs retort. By this fmiple procefs a great 
 quantity of liquor is obtained, and much black 
 thick oil of the confiilence of a balfam. The 
 liquor being feparated from the oil, and diftilled 
 in a large glafs veflel, yields by diftillation 
 a volatile fpirit, which, to be very penetrating, 
 requires only to be rectified. 
 
 Plants producing much fixed alkali, yield 
 by this procefs a large quantity of volatile alkali, 
 always in more abundance than the fixed alkali 
 would be if extrafted from the fame plant by 
 incineration; unduous, and humid plants, fuch 
 
 as 
 
DYIMG COTTON. 437 
 
 as the Cochliaria, Celandine, &c. ferment much 
 quicker and with more heat than dry and aro- 
 matick plants. 
 
 May we not prefume, therefore, that the an- 
 cients knew thefe qualities, and that they pre- 
 ferred the Ifiitis only becaufe this plant poiTefTed 
 them in a more eminent degree. The Cochlearia 
 is certainly of the flime family. They have jufl: 
 difcovered in Germany, or rather recovered, 
 the art of extracting a beautiful blue colour from 
 the Cheledonium or greater Celandine, in the 
 fame manner as from the Ifatis, obferving only 
 to let it ferment for a longer time. 
 
 In the paftel balls the fecul^e are fepa- 
 rated from the juice of the plant by an 
 incipient fermentation, which was not con- 
 tinued long enough to feparate from the 
 feculerkce the oil and volatile alkali, fo thac 
 thefe principles being confounded with the cada- 
 verous part of the plant, the colour is not vifi- 
 ble, becaufe obfcured by the earthy and grofs 
 particles. Lime is ufed for their development, 
 becaufe this faline fubftance, as well as fixed 
 alkali, has the property of decompofing all 
 neutral falts with a bafis of volatile alkali. 
 If a common fixed alkali be ufed, fuch as kelp 
 or pot-alh, &c. it would deftroy while it deve- 
 loped the colour, becaufe the volatile alkali 
 evaporating would carry with it the phlogifton. 
 But the earth of the lime feizes the colouring 
 principle as it quits the volatile alkali, retains 
 it, and thus prevents the deftruflion of the 
 colour. This hypothefis is fo well founded, 
 that without the greateft attention to the fecond 
 F f 3 fermentatioa 
 
438 THE ART OF 
 
 fermentation, when fetting of the paftel var, 
 the cotouring principles are entirely loll, from 
 their promptitude to evaporate before they have 
 had time to be retained by the lime or fixed by 
 the earth; and during the whole time the vat 
 mufl be fupplied with lime, gradually, as 
 the colouring principles develope. Heat is 
 neceflary for working the paftel vat ; becaufe 
 without it the earth of the coloured lime would 
 remain at the bottom of the vat, in the form of 
 a precipitate. Now in order that the colouring 
 particles may adhere to the fluffs when plunged 
 into the dying liquor, it is, as I have already 
 faid, very efiential that thefe particles be fuf- 
 pended in the liquor, forming with it a kind 
 of emulfion,- which being equal throughout, and 
 alike prefented to the whole of the furface, may 
 eafily and equally enter within thepores of the ftuff. 
 The principles extrafted from the Ifatis by 
 analyfis, naturally furnifh an explication of the 
 manner in which fluffs are dyed in the paftel 
 vat, and alfo of the fixity of the dye. It may 
 be conceived that the particles of the coloured 
 lime, being extremely fine, are eafily infinuated 
 within the pores of the wool, efpecially by 
 the help of a volatile alkali, whofe aflion is 
 fo very penetrating, and its particles forming 
 with the oil of the plant a maftic, preferves the 
 colour from the influence of the air. This dye 
 takes effect on wool in the fame manner nearly 
 as the fcarlet dye, only that, for the reafons 
 above-mentioned, the oil and the lime com- 
 bined in the paftel vat, produce a permanency 
 that cannot be obtained from the fcarlet dye. 
 4 Moreover 
 
DYING COTTON. 439 
 
 Moreover the paftel can only be ufed for wool 
 or woolen fluffs, the particles of thtf maftic 
 being too grofs to enter the pores JT' either 
 filk, linen, or cotton. 
 
 Of Indigo. 
 
 ^"T^HE colour of the feculse of thofe plants 
 -^ which furnifli the pafte called indigo, may 
 be called vifible^ for befides that this pafle is 
 of a dark blue colour, even the leaves of the 
 plant are a blueifli green. 
 
 Different authors, fpeaking of indigo, have 
 given very different defcriptions of this plant, 
 as well with regard to its height and habit, as 
 to the fhape and number of its leaves, the 
 form and colour of the flowers, and of the feed. 
 Hence we may conclude that various plants of 
 different fpecies, genera, and even clafs, may 
 produce feculas capable of being made into 
 indigo. 
 
 In America four fpecies are diflinguifhed, 
 very different from thofe ufed at China, Japan, 
 Java, in Perfia, and Madagafcar, &c. their pre- 
 paration is alfo different, probably owing to the 
 various natures of the plants ufed in different 
 countries. In the Eafl-Indies, the leaves of the 
 plant are fermented during the fpace of four days, 
 when the groffer particles fubfide and the colour- 
 ing feculse remain fufpended in the water, which 
 are feparated either by agitation or by the inter- 
 medium of lime. In America, on the contrary, 
 the fermentation is generally completed in forty 
 hours, which plainly proves that the plants there 
 ufed contain a much larger quantity of volatile 
 F f 4 alkali;, 
 
440 THEARTOF 
 
 alkali, by which the operation is rendered more 
 difficijk. owing to the danger of not flopping 
 in timll to prevent putrefaction, which is fre- 
 quently the caufe of failure in this operation. 
 
 The Portugueze when they conquered the 
 Brafils, difcovered a plant fimilar to that from 
 which the indigo is extrafVed in the Eaft- 
 Indies. The natives knew no other ufe for 
 this plant than to blacken their hair, and rub 
 their faces with it in order to affright their 
 enemies, in the fame manner as our ancient 
 Britons J and the Germans formerly ufed 
 the Ifatis* for the fame purpofe. The Portu- 
 gueze began to prepare this plant as they had 
 feen it prepared in the Eaft-Indies, and the 
 fame procefs is at prefent adopted by all the 
 European colonies in America. If we except 
 the time, the violence of the fermentation, 
 and the apparatus of the vefTels, their opera- 
 tion and produce were the fame, the American 
 becoming fufHcient for the confumption of 
 Europe, the importation of indigo from the Eafl-» 
 Indies was difcontinued, a very fmall quantity 
 excepted. 
 
 Though the indigo was fabricated in America 
 for two hundred years, we were a confiderable 
 part of the time ignorant of the plant by which 
 it was produced -, but where is the wonder, fince 
 it was much longer before we knew any thing 
 of the nature of cochineal, and that we are ftill 
 equally ignorant of a number of commercial, 
 drugs. 1 he reafon is, I fuppofe, becaufe thofc 
 
 who 
 
 * Ferninacanitiem Germanls inficit hcrbis 
 Et melior vero queritur aiie color, Ovift. 
 
DYING COTTON. 441 
 
 who migrate in order to eftablifh American Co- 
 lonies, have very little curiofity, and befides think 
 more of their own intereft than of giving us in- 
 formation. We may however prefume that 
 the preateft number are attentive to their own 
 intereft, and that the Europeans, finding the 
 indigo plant in America, would cultivate it, 
 rather than introduce the culture of a foreign 
 plant. In Malta, they cultivated the fame 
 plant a hundred years ago, the culture 
 of which is now neglefted. There is ac- 
 tually but one dyer in the Ifland, who 
 fows it and keeps it for his own ufe. He 
 follows the fteps of his anceftors in his pro- 
 cefsi but we can eafily conceive that the 
 American indigo is greatly fuperior to what he 
 makes. 
 
 The plant which the Arabs and Spaniards call 
 Anil, is called at Malta, Ennir. It refembles 
 the chick-weed in its leaves, only that the 
 branches are Ihorter and broader, and woody 
 like thofe of broom. It feldom grows higher 
 than two feet, and even at the end of three years 
 the branches are fcarce an inch thick. Its 
 flower is fomething like the Hearts-eafe, and its 
 feed like thofe of the Fenugrec. It is fown in 
 June and gathered in November, and generally 
 lafts about three years. The feculas extraded 
 from this plant in the firft year, are of a bad qua- 
 lity, reddifh and heavy, not fwimming in water 
 like good Indigo. The fecond year the feculcC 
 are in perfection, of a violet colour, light, 
 and fwims in water} but in the third year they de- 
 generate 
 
442 THEARTOF 
 
 generate, are heavy, blackifh, and even inferior 
 
 to that of the firft year. 
 
 Ofjuhjiances iijed in Dying Faivn and root colour. 
 
 ' I ''HIS colour, in my opinion, does not deferve 
 "■' to be ranked amongft: the number of thofe 
 called primitive colours. M. Dufay is of the 
 fame opinion, who thinks, with reafon, that 
 this colour, philofophically confidered, is a mix- 
 ture of yellow and black. Neverthelefs as there 
 are in nature, fubflances furnifhing this colour 
 without being under the neceffity of procuring 
 it from any new combinations, and that thefe 
 fubftances having in themfelves a certain degree 
 of fixity, without requiring fluffs to be pre- 
 vioufly alumed, it may not be amifs to give 
 reafons, or at leaft probable conjedlures relative 
 to their nature. 
 
 The fubflances ufed for giving this colour 
 are the green fhell of the wallnut, the root of 
 the wallnut, fantal, fumach, &c. many others 
 might be added to thofe, fuch as the leaves of 
 black horehound, the wood of the lote or nettle 
 tree, the Uva iirfiy the Iris fahifiris luteay and 
 a confiderable number of vegetables, which be- 
 caufe of the facility of procuring this colour, 
 are not ufed. Thefe fubflances have in general, 
 a better and aflringcnt tafle, owing to the refin 
 they contain, and which is formed by the com- 
 bination of an acid, with a thick fixed oil and 
 phlogiflon. The exiftence of this combination 
 was Ions ago difcovered in thefe fubflances, 
 and fince confirmed by their property of pre- 
 cipitating metals, efpecially iron, and of applying 
 
 a fuper- 
 
DYING COTTON. 44-3 
 
 a fuperabundant phlogifton to that neceflary for 
 their reduaion. The rcfmous particles of all 
 thefe fubftances, eafily dye Ruff, becaufe being 
 fujpended in a ftate of cmulfion, they have na- 
 turally lefs affinity with the liquor than AV'..ii 
 the matter to be dyed. 
 
 Thefe fubftances, ftricT:ly confidered, furnifli 
 no colour perfedly fixed. They owe their 
 colour only to a phlogifton, fuperabundant to 
 that which enters into the connpofition of the 
 oil and refin ; but this phlogifton not being 
 volatile, there remains only the coloured par- 
 ticles of that portion of the phlogifton which 
 enters into the compofition of the refin. This 
 is one of the cauics why the black dye lofes 
 a part of its ground without being intirely de- 
 faced. 
 
 Of all the fubftances yielding fawn colour, 
 galls are the moft tenacious, for which quality 
 They are indebted to the perfefl combination of 
 their principles, and therefore preferable in the 
 the black dye. They are alfo very ufeful in giving 
 a ground to filk intended for the crimfon dye, 
 and in preparing cotton for the madder dye, 
 for the reafons I have already given in a chapter 
 concerning the preparation of ftufts to be dyed. 
 
 Of Carthamus, Rocou^ ^c, 
 
 ''TpHE flowers of the Carthamus, or baftard 
 * fafFron furnifti two feparate colours, the 
 fame as the root of madder, a yellow and a 
 red. The yellow is a mucillaginous juice, the 
 red a refinous feculence i but the yellow juice 
 wants only a more intimate combination of its 
 
 principles 
 
444 THE ART GF 
 
 principles to become rcfinous, and to acquire 
 the fame colour of the red fecul^e. The colour 
 of the petals proves this, which though yellow at 
 firft, changes to red as the flowers ripen. Hence 
 we may prefume that in Afia, where this plant 
 originally came from, the flowers would yield 
 more colour. Thefe feculae or colouring refins 
 are always of the falfe dye, becaufe compofed 
 of an acid, and an eflential oil, extremely vola- 
 tile. The fame may be faid of all vegetable 
 flowers, with the fame appearance of colour, 
 particularly St. John's wort, on which P. Cotta 
 made ibme experiments s but which experiments 
 were never yet, nor ever can be of any ufe. In 
 fhorr, the plants yielding colour by depuration 
 of their juices, or by the fermentation of their 
 refinous fecul^, are very numiCrous. Thejuice 
 of the hemlock, which depofits a green colour, 
 is an inftance of this kind. All thcfe kinds of 
 feculae however may be rendered of ufe in the 
 Art of Dying. 
 
 The feculence of the Rocou is nothing more 
 than the pollen of an American plant, calltdrnicu, 
 to which the Euommus has great affinity. The 
 bitter and aromatic tafl:eof this feculence, as well 
 as the effedl produced on it by fpirit of wine, 
 fufficiently indicate that it is, as well as the 
 Carthamus, of a refinous nature. This fpecies 
 of feculence eafily enters the pores of the fubjefl to 
 be dyed, and by^ its own aftringency remains 
 fixed, even without having previoufly alumed ; 
 becaufe the effential oil which is one of the 
 principles of refins, being combiired with the 
 alum, muft on account of the acid, deftroy the 
 
 colour 
 
DYING COTTON. u^ 
 
 colour of the feculse. Thefe dyes are therefore 
 affefted by the air, only becaufe of the aerial 
 
 acid. 
 
 O/Bl^ck. 
 
 COLOURS hitherto mentioned are com- 
 municated to Huff", by means of Tub- 
 ftances, which are conveyed into its pores. 
 This however is not the cafe with black, as 
 we are yet ignorant of any feculence, pofleflf- 
 ing the qualities of the blue, 'red, or yellow 
 colouring matter. Neither the black, of bones, 
 ivory, Ethiops Martial, &c. nor any other 
 fubttance, of the three kingdoms, whether 
 fimple or compound, could hitherto be rendered 
 of any ufe in the Art of Dying; becaufe being 
 of a dry nature it is incapable of being intro- 
 duced within the pores of the fluff, being 
 neither attradled by the fubjeft to be dyed, 
 nor by any aftringent. It mufl be remem- 
 bered that I have faid, when fpeaking of 
 this procefs, that in dying, it is necefTary there 
 fhould be a reciprocal attraflion, either on 
 the part of the fubftance itfelf, or on that of the 
 aflringent which it had imbibed, and the colour- 
 ing particles. Now with regard to the black 
 feculas, this attradlion can never take place, as 
 they can have no kind of affinity, not even with 
 the fluid, in which from their natural drynefs, 
 they can never be fufpended, confequently are 
 placed at fuch a diflance in the fluff as to with- 
 ftand the power with which thefe fubftances are 
 capable of attradling each other. Befides how- 
 ever divided they may be, they are yet incapable 
 of being attradlcd by the earth of alum, or 
 
 any 
 
446 THEARTOF 
 
 any other earthy or metallic bafis, thefe earths 
 and the feculjE having no affinity to each other, 
 the latter being too dry, and the fornner exerting 
 their attra6tive power only on oily fubftances. 
 
 Inflead therefore of black fecuhr, we arc 
 reduced to the necefTity of procuring this dye 
 from a combination of blue, yellow and red. 
 The famous fraternity of the Goblins formerly 
 purfued this method, giving their flufrs a blue 
 ground of the paftel, then aluming and afcerwards 
 dying in woad or madder. This is indeed the 
 beft method of procuring a folid black, fince each 
 of thefe dyes, feparately taken, are extremely 
 permanent. This pradice was neverthelefs dif- 
 continued, becaufe being really expenfive, the 
 Merchants rejeded it for a dye, procured at 
 a much cheaper rate, from drugs of an inferior 
 quality. This colour is regarded with too much 
 indifference, confidering that the fluffs are liable 
 to be injured by the nature of thefe drugs and 
 that by fuch impolitic csconomy we bring our 
 manufactures into difcredit. 
 
 Befides, thefe drugs, in the fame manner as in 
 the Goblin procefs, produce a black only by com- 
 bination. Galls, Sumach, the rind of the 
 alder tree, logwood, &c. contain the three 
 primitive colours, which are developed by the 
 falts of copperas or iron. Permanency however 
 cannot be cxpefted from fuch mixtures and 
 combinations, which on account of the various 
 qualities of the different ingredients, are only 
 capable of giving a tindl. The fecula^of each of 
 thefe colours, have their diffrent degrees of fixity; 
 hence we may conclude that the leaft permanent 
 
 being 
 
DYING COTTON. 447 
 
 being fooneft deftroyed by the effed of the air, 
 thofe that remain predominating too much, form a 
 new combination, which gives a caft of brown, 
 marone, grey, or any other fliade of black, 
 according to the fubftances that beft (land the 
 the acftion of the air. It were therefore to be 
 wifhed, that we could find a black vegetable 
 fubftance capable of dying black, and it is 
 aftonifliins: that our naturalifls do not more 
 particularly apply themfelves to a fubjedl {o 
 greatly deferving of their attention, as well 
 with regard to the dying of fluffs, as to the 
 importance of procuring an ink more durable 
 than any now in ufe. 
 
 There is a tree in the Brafils called Junipapu^ 
 yaway and by botanifts V omifera-indtca tinBonay or 
 Genipa Americanay the leaves of which refemble 
 thofe of the walnut tree. Its berries and leaves 
 dye a blue black, capable of refifting the effedls 
 of foap. The flefli and fat of pigs and birds 
 who eat thefe berries, is penetrated with a violet 
 colour, dark and indelible. 
 
 The berries of the Chriftophorianay or A5lea 
 Jpicatay poifon berries or St. Chriftopher's herb, 
 give, according to Linnseus, when boiled with 
 alum, a black dye. Thofe of the Empetrum 
 prociimbensy or Erica hacdfera fjigra, give fluffs, 
 according to the fame author, and by the fame 
 means, a purpleifh black. Our barberry or 
 prickly forrel, refembles in many refpefls the 
 Chj-ijiophoriana. The Erica Baccifera being of 
 the fame genus of the myrtles, we might try if 
 our myrtles— -u/Z/V ideta or vaccinum — ufed by the 
 
 ancient 
 
448 THEARTOF 
 
 ancient Gauls in dying of purple, would not 
 with aftringents produce a permanent black. 
 
 The fruit of the Anacardcy or Acajou nut, 
 gives a fixed black. The trunk of the Vernix 
 tree, Texico tendron, diftills a juice producing 
 the fame effecl:. M. I'Abbe Sauvage firft dif- 
 covered that the juice of the 'I'oxico tendron Caro- 
 linianum foliis phmatisj floribus minimis herhaceiSy 
 dyed linen a much deeper black than any other 
 known preparation, and with much lefs acri- 
 mony. M. I'Abbe Mareas defcribes two fpecies 
 of toxica tendron, cultivated at St, Germains-en- 
 Laie, in the gardens of the Duke D'Ayen; 
 one is called Iriphillum folio finuato fubefcenle, 
 and the other 'Triphillum glabrum, both from 
 Virginia. Their leaves contain a milky juice, 
 which in dying becomes a deep black, and 
 which if it falls upon linen communicates the 
 fame colour. They give a much finer black, 
 and in much lefs time than the juice of that 
 fpecies difcovered by the Abbe Sauvage, and 
 befides refill the effed of the lixiviums. 
 
 The turpentine tree, the Lentijque or maftic 
 tree, the Rhus of Tournefort, or Sumach, have all 
 of them leaves giving a milky juice. Thefe feve- 
 ral plants are of the piftachio family. The leaves 
 of the Monotropa of Linnaeus, the choak weed, 
 or Orohanchoides of Tournefort, turn black, 
 which feems to indicate that black feculce 
 may be extrafled from it. Apothecaries pre- 
 pare a very fine black extract from the vifcous 
 juice of the Bypocrifte. 
 
 A fimilar extra(5t may be obtained from the 
 grain of the Acafia, a tree, which like the in- 
 digo. 
 
DYING COTTON. 449 
 
 digo, bears leguminous flowers. Something 
 of the fume kind may be extra6ted from the 
 liquorice root, a plant of the fame genus, the 
 leaves of which when fermented give black 
 feculas, evidently exifting in this plant. Thefe 
 obfervations are all worthy of attention. 
 
 Of the Dying of Cotton Thread. 
 
 Of clearfing. 
 
 TT is necefiliry, previous to the dying of cot- 
 •^ ton thread, to cleanfe it from that unduous 
 matter by which the dye is prevented from pene- 
 trating its pores. For this purpofe they make 
 life of four water, which is prepared by throw- 
 ing fome handfuls of bran into hot water, and 
 letting it ftand four-and-twenty hours, or till 
 the water becomes four, when it is fit for ufe. 
 Thefe four waters however cleanfe the cotton 
 but very imperfectly, carrying off only the 
 fuperficial part of the un6luous matter, which 
 river water would do as well. The lixiviums 
 of aflies are more cffe(5lual, and therefore all 
 fixed alkalies, particularly kelp, or even the 
 alhes of new wood, are, for the reafon I have 
 already given, generally preferred for this ope- 
 ration. The falts are extrafled in the fams man- 
 ner as by the bleachers; and the cotton is then 
 lleeped in thefe lixiviums, which, like the filk, 
 is enclofed in a clean linen pocket or fack, to 
 prevent the flceins from tangling: it fhould boil 
 for a couple of hours : when perfedly cleanfed, 
 the pockets fink to the bottom of the liquor, 
 G g becaufc 
 
450 THEARTOF 
 
 becaufe the impeding matter being removed 
 the water penetrates the pores. The pocket is 
 then taken out of the copper, the fkeins fepa- 
 rated from each other, and wafiied at the river. 
 They arc afterwards wrung on the peg, and 
 ao-ain rinced till the water comes off clear. The 
 fkeins are then fpread on the perches to dry. 
 
 Of the colours employed for dying of cotton thread, 
 
 'nr^HE colour of cotton thread defigned for the 
 "^ fabrication of fluffs, fhould not only refift 
 the air but even foap. Dyers are confined in 
 the choice of their colouring fubftances, con- 
 fequently in the fhades of their colours. 
 
 The colouring fubllances are indigo, madder, 
 and woad; for hitherto we know of no other 
 fubflance capable of forming a bitumen fuffi- 
 cient to withfland the power of fixed alkalies. 
 The three principal colours are therefore blue, 
 red, and yellow, to which may be added black, 
 and the fhades refulting from a mixture of thefe 
 primitive colours taken by twos or by threes. 
 
 Of Blue. 
 
 'T^HERE is no difficulty in dying cotton 
 '^ thread of this colourj the only requifite 
 is a cold vat, and made in the following manner: 
 The blue vats are generally raifed in great 
 brandy pipes newly emptied, or in hogfheads 
 that had been ufed for oils, containing about 
 five hundred quarts. If the latter, it fhould be 
 well cleaned by flaking lime in it, and by fcrub- 
 bing the infide of the vefTel with a broom till 
 the greafe is abforbed by the lime. 
 
 The 
 
DYING COTTON. 451 
 
 The quantity of indigo generally ufed for 
 thefc vats, is from fix to i^tven or eight pounds. 
 This indigo Ihould boil in a lixivium made 
 with double its weight of pot-afh, and of lime 
 equal to the weight of the indigo, which fliould 
 be drawn off clear. But before thefe fubftances 
 are boiled together, the indigo, in different 
 parts and at different times, is pounded in a 
 mortar, moiftening with water fufficicnt to pre- 
 vent it from flying off" in dufb, but not fo great 
 as to hinder it from being pounded. 
 
 Each parcel of the indigo, as it is pounded 
 and reduced into pafte, ispu: into an iron boiler 
 containing about twenty quarts. When ic is 
 all pounded, the boiler filled with lixivium, 
 and the fire put under, it is then fuffcred to boil, 
 till the whole of the indigo being difi^ufed in 
 the liquor rifes to, the furface in a kind of cream, 
 and when ftriking the bottom of the boiler 
 with a ftick, it appears by the found to contain 
 no fubftance. By thefe indications you will 
 perceive when the indigo is boiled; but if the 
 liquor in the boiling fliould evaporate too much, 
 it will be neceffary to add more of the lixivium 
 to prevent it from (ticking. 
 
 While the indigo is boiling you flake the fame 
 quantity of quick lime, adding about twenty 
 quarts of warm water, and double the quantity 
 of copperas diflblved in it. The copperas when 
 pcrfeftly diflTolved is poured into the vat, pre- 
 vioufly about half filled with water. The indigo 
 folution is then poured on to it, minding at 
 different times to rince the copper with the 
 remaining lixivium, and then adding the whole 
 G g 2 that 
 
452 THEARTOF 
 
 that nothing fhould be loft. When poured in 
 and the vat filled with warm water to about two 
 or three fingers of the edge, it is ftirred with a 
 ftick two or three times a day, till it becomes 
 proper for dying, which it will be in about eight- 
 and-forty hours, and often fooner, according 
 to the temperature of the air, by which the fer- 
 mentation is more or lefs accelerated. 
 
 To this Paftel vat feveral Dyers add com- 
 mon madder and geneftrole, which they boil 
 with the indigo; but thefe fubftances are of 
 no ufe. The quantity of the paftel muft be 
 too fmall to be of any fervice, and the madder 
 when cold can produce only a fawn colour, 
 which muft darken the blue at the expence of 
 its brightnefs. 
 
 The geneftrole by giving a green colour 
 deceives the Dyer, who fuppofes the vat in a 
 proper ftate for dying when it is not ; the green 
 colour of this liquor being in fafl produced only 
 by an equal diftribution of the indigo through- 
 out the feveral particles of this fluid ; hence by 
 thus artificially greening you give only the ap- 
 pearance of an effeft, which can only be occa- 
 fioned by a divifion of the indigo feculae. 
 
 When boiling the indigo, it is the cuftom to 
 add fome handfuls of bran, as ufeful both in 
 correding the bad qualities of the water and 
 in cleanfing the vat. 
 
 The cotton to be dyed in thefe vats is diftri- 
 buted into hanks, and fufpended acrofs over 
 the vat. Thefe hanks, firft fteeped in warm 
 water, lightly wrung, and then put on the 
 rods, are frequently returned till they have 
 
 taken 
 
DYING COTTON. 453 
 
 taken the colour equally: you proceed thus 
 till they have imbibed the fhade required, if 
 the vat be ftrong enough -, but if not, they Ihould be 
 dipped immediately in another vat. When perfe6lly 
 dyed, and before wafhing at the river, it is the 
 cuftom with many to wring them over the vat, and 
 in order to ungreen, to fhake and open them; 
 but it were much better to drain them over the 
 dying liquor and to ungreen in the rincing 
 water. In wafhing the cotton when taken out 
 of the dye, there is no danger of lofing any 
 part of the indigo, provided it be not wafhed 
 in a running water, and therefore they provide 
 for this purpofe troughs or barrels full of water, 
 in which they plunge the dyed cotton, (lirring 
 carefully till it is entirely ungreened. This 
 water is afterwards ufeful, either in filling the 
 vats that require it, or in raifing new ones. 
 
 In this vat are dyed the blue and white fkeins, 
 and by the following fimple manoeuvre. They 
 divide the fl^ceins into equal parts of any fize, 
 alternately binding them round with a light 
 thread, by which means the fkeins, when plunged 
 into the vat, are coloured only in thofe parts 
 that were left expofed to the dye. When thus 
 dyed and dried, and the binding thread cut, 
 the fkein remains catine or mottled. 
 
 If the vat does not come to, though you have 
 no reafon to fuppofe the indigo exhaufted, which 
 can be known only from experience, and being 
 enabled to calculate nearly the produce of a 
 pound of indigo according to the fhades re- 
 quired, it may be recovered by feedingj that is 
 by adding to it either copperas or lime, as it 
 G g 3 may 
 
454 THE ART OF 
 
 may require, or as from experience you are 
 enabled to judge by its appearance. If black, 
 it requires copperas; if yellow, lime. Thefe 
 are in general, all the direftions that can be 
 given with regard to the government of thefe kind 
 of vats, which yield more or lefs in proportion to 
 the goodnefs of the indigo, and frequently 
 to the Dyers' method of conducting the vatj 
 but experience is better than precept. 
 
 Thefe are the only vats hitherto known for 
 dying cotton-velvets, or callicoes, the paftel 
 vat not being ftrong enough for the purpofe, 
 no more than is the logwood vat with lime 
 \jfed for filk, the urinous vat, nor any other 
 indigo vat. 
 
 Callicoes died in this vat Ihould be put into 
 a fmall net bound to an iron or wooden hoop, 
 with a ftone or weight affixed, in order to keep 
 it fufpended at what height you choofe, and 
 to prevent it from rifing to the furface. Three 
 or four cords, tied to the circumference, 
 are faftened to the edge of the vat, in fuch 
 a manner as to fink the net about two-thirds 
 deep. By this means the callicoe may be 
 plunged without any rifk from the grounds, 
 which in ftirring would otherwife fpoil the dye. 
 It is therefore plunged into the liquor with cau- 
 tion, frequently handling and cooling by the 
 rod, carefully finking that it may be evenly 
 coloured, and thus continuing till it has taken 
 the ihade required, either in one or more vats 
 according to their ftrength and to the depth of 
 the colour. It is then taken out, folding it 
 at the fame time with the rods, and then put 
 
 to 
 
DYING COTTON. 455 
 
 to drain on a pole placed over every vat for that 
 purpofe. It fhould not however remain too 
 long in this fituation, becaufe, not ungreening 
 equally, it would be watered and fpottcd; it 
 is therefore taken down and aired on the pavement 
 of the dye houfej but the ungreening, as I 
 have already faid, is completed either in the 
 troughs or in running water. 
 
 As cotton velvet is extremely fubjedt to roll 
 on the rods whilfl: wet, and the pile cafily laid, 
 which when dyed in thefe hogfhead-vats renders 
 the colour uneven, it was therefore found necef- 
 fary for cotton velvet, to prepare the fame dye 
 in fquare veflels, fuch as I fhall hereafter de- 
 fcribe, when I come to fpeak of the blue ground 
 given to callicoes intended for white, commonly 
 called china white. 
 
 Of Red. 
 
 '"T^O dye cotton red, requires three pre- 
 •■* parations, viz. cleanfing, galling, and 
 aUiming. The operation of cleanfing as above. 
 With regard to the galling, any kind of galls 
 may be ufed in cafe of neceflltyj or even tan 
 may be fubftituted j but that requiring more, 
 it would not anfwer the purpofe fo well. The 
 black Aleppo galls, becaufe lefs fuflices, are 
 preferable to the white galls, which though 
 cheaper make the expence come nearly equal. 
 The Aleppo galls are however liable to dull 
 the colour, which though eafily revived, the 
 white not producing this inconvenience are gene- 
 rally preferred by moft Dyers. It requires nearly 
 five quarts of liquor to drench one pound of 
 G g 4 cotton; 
 
456 THEARTOF 
 
 cotton; fo that fof twenty pounds, five pounds 
 of pounded galls are boileJ in about one hun- 
 dred and twenty quarts of water j it fliould boil 
 for two hours, or till by preffing it between the 
 ' fingers it breaks eafily. 
 
 This liquor is drawn off" clear, and poured 
 into a tub, into which, when cold, or even 
 whilft Vv'arm, the cotton which was before divided 
 into hanks of about eight ounces each, and 
 tyed with a thread to prevent them from tangling, 
 is dipped. Suppofe, for example, that having 
 about forty of thefe hanks, and a hundred quarts 
 of the gall liquor, a part of it neceflarily eva- 
 porating in the boiling, five quarts of this 
 liquor is taken out of the tub and put into a 
 trough, into which you dip two fkeins at once, 
 carefully working them till they are foaked. 
 They are then taken out and laid in an empty 
 tub, pouring over them the remainder of the 
 liquor in which they had been foaked : five 
 quarts more are then taken out of the tub con- 
 taining the gall water, poured into the trough, 
 and two more hanks dipped into it, and fo 
 on fucceffively till the whole is galled. The 
 gall liquor fhould be flirred in the tub every 
 time you take out, that the whole of the cotton 
 may be galled equally, which it would not be 
 were the grounds to fettle at the bottom. This 
 operation finifhed, if any of the liquor re- 
 mains, it is poured on the galled cotton, being 
 orderly ranged in the tub, where, after remain- 
 ing twenty-four hours, it is taken out fkein by 
 fkein, gently wrung, and then put to dry. 
 
 The 
 
DYING COTTON. 457 
 
 The aluming for the cotton confiits of about 
 four ounces of Roman alum for every pound 
 of the fubftance. Having pounded the proper 
 quantity of alum, it is dilTolved over the fire, 
 in a copper containing a fufficient quantity of 
 water, taking care not to let it boil, otherwife 
 it would lofe its flrength. The liquor is imme- 
 diately poured into a tub or trough of cold 
 water, proportioned to the quantity of the 
 cotton, fo as that the whole of the liquor may 
 be as that of the galling, a hundred quarts 
 for every tv^^enty pounds of cotton. It is the 
 cuftom to add to this alum liquor a folution 
 partly compofed of arfcnic and white tartar, 
 with one part of the lixivium of kelp. The 
 firil: folution confifts of one grain of arfenic and 
 two grains of white tartar, in two or three 
 quarts of water. When the water in the copper 
 boils, the arfenic and tartar, well pounded, is 
 put into it, and kept boiling till the liquor is 
 reduced to about half. When cold it is ftrained 
 and put into bottles or vefTels, which fhould 
 be (lopped and kept for ufe. 
 
 The kelp lixivium is made with about half 
 a pound to a quart of water. You will know 
 if this lixivium be fufficiently ftrong, when by 
 putting an egg into it the point only appears 
 on the furface. 
 
 You then add to the alum liquor for this 
 fuppofed twenty pounds of cotton, twenty 
 quarts of the folution, and three quarts of the 
 faid lixivium, obferving neverthelefs that the 
 whole of the water ufed in mixing the alum 
 and other fubftances, be always in the propor- 
 tion 
 
458 THEARTOF 
 
 tion of five quarts of liquor to every pound of 
 cotton. The twenty pounds of cotton are then 
 plunged into this aftringent pound by pound, 
 in the the fanae manner and with the fame pre- 
 caution as in galling; it is afterwards wrung, 
 but without being too much fqueezed, and then 
 flowly dryed. 
 
 Some Dyers never ufe the folution of tartar 
 and arfenic with the alum, rationally fuppofing 
 that thefe fubftances, as they ruft and yellow 
 the red colours, would be prejudicial to the 
 dye: the red furnifhed by madder being already 
 too much inclined to this Ihade requires rather 
 to be faddened, and for this reafon partly the 
 kelp lixivium is added to the aluming. Several, 
 therefore, ufe fix quarts of this lixivium inftead 
 of three, and thefe fix quarts containing the 
 falts of about three pounds of kelp, which 
 by fuppofing the kelp afhes to contain, a quarter 
 of its weight of fait, is in proportion of half 
 an ounce to every quarter of a pound of alum. 
 
 Inftead of the folution of tartar and arfenic, 
 othei*s make ufe of a folution of fugar of 
 lead, prepared feparate. It fhould be obferved 
 in this particular, that when the fugar of 
 lead is diflblved in common water it becomes 
 turbid and whitifh, becaufe plain water not 
 diflfolving this I'alt perfe6lly, a kind of par- 
 tial feparation of the calx of lead takes place; 
 but by mixing a fufficient quantity of diftilled 
 vinegar with the water, the calx entirely difap- 
 pears and the folution is complete. 
 
 When the cotton is taken out of the aftringent, 
 
 it is lightly wrung on the peg and dried. The 
 
 2 more 
 
DYING COTTON. 459 
 
 more flowly it dries, and the longer before it is 
 
 maddered, the brighter the colour. Twenty 
 pounds of cotton are generally dyed at the fame 
 time; but it were ftill more advantao;eous to 
 dye only ten, becaufe when there arc too many 
 hanks to work in the copper, it is very difficult 
 to dye them equally : the hanks firft immerfed 
 having time to take a great deal of colour before 
 the laft are put in; for as the firft cannot be 
 returned upfide down till after the laft are plunged, 
 it is morally impoffible that the dye ftiould be 
 even. 
 
 The copper in which this ten pounds of cotton 
 are dyed, ftiould contain about two hundred and 
 forty quarts of water — that is, twenty quarts 
 of water for every pound of cotton; its fliapc 
 ftiould be an oblong fquare and about two (eQt 
 deep. It ftiould alfo be wider at top than at 
 bottom; the difference however ftiould not be 
 too great, becaufe in that cafe the hanks laid 
 flanting on the fides would be liable to fpot. 
 As feveral Dyers have erred for want of knowing 
 how much water the copper ftiould contain 
 refpedting its dimcnfions, and that the greater 
 part of the brafiers are likewife ignorant in this 
 particular, it may not be amifs, in this place, 
 to add a ftiort and eafy method of finding the 
 contents of a veflel. 
 
 In the firft place, fuppofe the veffel round 
 or cylindrical, you begin by meafuring the dia- 
 meter; you then feek the circumference, after- 
 terwards the furface; and at laft by multiplying 
 the furface by the perpendicular height, the 
 
 produ6t 
 
46o THEARTOF 
 
 produd is the cube fought for, and determines 
 
 the contents of the veflel. 
 
 For example, a copper twenty- two inches 
 deep by thirty diameter j to find the furface 
 take the proportion of the diameter to the cir- 
 cumference, which is as feven to twenty-two : 
 Itate as in the Rule-of-Three, the firft number 
 7, the fecond 22, and the third 30 j the fourth 
 number will be the circumference. This fourth 
 number is found by multiplying the two middle 
 numbers, 22 and 30, by each other, and divid- 
 ing the produd 660 by 7, the firft number; 
 the quotient 94 is the circumference fought for. 
 If a fquare or oblong veflel, as in the prefent 
 cafe, you have the circumference by adding the 
 length of the four fides. 
 
 Multiply afterwards the half of the circum- 
 ference by the radius, that is 47 by 15, the pro- 
 dud 705 is the number of fquare inches, and 
 confequently the furface of your veflel. 
 
 At laft multiply 70^ by 22, which is the per- 
 pendicular heiglit, the produd 155 10 is the 
 number of cubic inches your veflfel contains. 
 If it is larger at top than at bottom, it is necef- 
 fary, in order to determine the circumference, 
 to take a middle number between the breadth 
 of the top and the breadth of the bottom, as if the 
 copper be thirty-three inches at the top and at 
 bottom twenty-feven, the middle number and 
 real diameter is thirty. 
 
 Having multiplyed the furface by the perpen- 
 dicular height, you muft reduce the inches to 
 feet. Now the fquare foot being equal to 144 
 fquare inches, and the cubic foot to 1728 cubic 
 
 inches. 
 
DYING COTTON. 464. 
 
 inches, you muft therefore in this example divide 
 i55iobyi728, the quotient 9IT will be about 
 the number of cubic feet in the copper, and as 
 a cubic foot contains 35 quarts, confequently 
 the copper containsjiS quarts Paris meafure [T^e 
 Paris pmt is our quart.'] To madder ten pounds 
 of cotton, a copper containing 240 quarts of 
 water is made hot. When it is rather too hot for 
 the hand, fix pounds and a quarter of good Dutch 
 grape madder is put into it, and carefully opened 
 and diffuled in the liquor. When it is well mixed 
 the cotton which had been previouHy pafled on 
 the rods, and fufpended on the edge of the 
 cotton is dipped into it hank by hank. When 
 It IS all dipped, the hanks on each rod are worked 
 and fucceffively turned upfide down, beginning 
 from the firft that was put in and fo proceeding 
 to the laft, returning to the firft, and thus cont 
 tinuing without intermiffion for three quarters 
 of an hour, always maintaining an equal degree of 
 heat, but without boiling j the cotton is then raifed 
 and drawn out upon the edge of the copper, and 
 about a pint of the kelp lixivium poured into the 
 liquor. The rods are then pafled through the 
 threads by which each hatikis bound, and the cotton 
 put back into the copper and boiled for about 
 twelve or fifteen minutes, keeping it intirelv 
 immerfed during that time. It is at laft raifed", 
 gently drained, wrung, wafhedat the river, and 
 wrung afecond time on the peg. 
 
 Two days afterwards the cotton is a fecond 
 time maddered, about eight ounces of madder 
 ^'\^''^^y pound i that is, five pounds of madder 
 added to the dying liquor. The cotton is then 
 
 worked 
 
462 THE ART OF 
 
 worked in it, in the fame manner as in the firft 
 maddering, with this difference, that none of 
 the lixivium is added, and that the liquor is 
 made of well-water. This maddering being 
 finifhed, and the cotton cooled, it is wafhed, 
 wrung, and dryed. 
 
 To brighten this red you put into a copper 
 or trough a quantity of warm water fufficient 
 to drench the cotton, pouring into it about a 
 pint of the lixivium. In this liquor you immerfe 
 the cotton pound by pound; leaving it in for 
 an inftant only, when it is taken out^ wrung, and 
 dried. 
 
 This operation, as it is pradlifed at Rouen, I 
 have exadlly defcribed, but it fhould be obferved 
 that this method of dying in two liquors has no 
 advantage. For befides that it confumes more 
 time and wood, the fecond maddering cannot 
 furnilh much dye, confidering that the aftrin- 
 gent falts are exhaulled by the boiling of the 
 firft maddering, confequently that the cotton 
 when deprived of thefe falts cannot take the 
 dye. I propofe therefore another method now 
 purfued with fuccefs by feveral Dyers : it con- 
 fifts in giving the cotton two alumings, and 
 afterwards dying in one liquor only. By this 
 means it takes the dye much better, and acquires 
 more depth, becaufe the whole of the madder 
 turns to advantage. With refpedl to bright- 
 ening, it is a needlefs operation for red cotton 
 deftined for the fabrication of callicoe, becaufe 
 the colour is brightened after it is woven, by 
 dipping in warm water fliarpened with a little 
 of the lixivium. When the cotton is taken out 
 
 of 
 
DYING COTTON. 46.5 
 
 of this water, if wafhed at the river and fpread 
 on the grafs, the red brightens much better than 
 by any other operation. 
 
 Adrianopk Red. 
 
 'T^^HE reds of which I have been fpcaking 
 ■^ are vulgarly called madder reds, though 
 the reds I am going to defcribe are equally ob- 
 tained from a fjtecies of madder coming from the 
 Levant. The latter however, commonly called 
 lizary, furni files a dye incomparably finer than 
 that produced by the beft Zealand madder j it 
 is however the fafhion to call the red of madder 
 the firft dycj and the Adrianople Red, the 
 fecond. The procefs of the latter I fhall give 
 in this place. 
 
 When you have a hundred pounds of cotton 
 to dye, you put a hundred and fifty pounds 
 of Alicant Soda, inclofed in clean linen, into 
 a tub. This tub fliould be full of holes 
 at the bottom, that the liquor may run into a 
 another tub underneath. The hundred and fifty 
 pounds of Soda being in the upper tub, is covered 
 with three hundred quarts of river water, mea- 
 fured by woodenpails containing each twenty-five 
 quarts. The water that pafles from the firft tub 
 into the fecond, is again poured over the Soda 
 at different times, till it has extracted all the 
 fait. This lixivium may be tryed with oil : if 
 it uniformly whitens and that it mixes well with 
 the oil without any appearance of feparation at 
 the furface, it is then fufHciently faturated with 
 the fait. It may be alfo tryed with a frefti egg 
 as I have faid above. You again pour three 
 
 hundred 
 
46i THE ART OF 
 
 hundred quarts of water over the Soda, contained 
 in the fuperior tub, in order to extradt the whole 
 of the fait. Two fimilar lixiviums are after- 
 wards made, each with the fame quantity of 
 water, as had been ufed for the Soda, viz. one 
 hundred and fifty pounds of frefh wood-afhes, 
 and the other with feventy-five pounds of quick- 
 lime. Thefe three lixiviums being clarified, a 
 hundred pounds of cotton are put into a tub, 
 and watered with each of thefe lixiviums in equal 
 proportion. When it has perfefliy imbibed 
 thefe falts, it is put into a copper full of water 
 without being wrung, and boiled for three hours, 
 it is afterwards taken out and wafhed in run- 
 ning water. This operation being finifhed the 
 cotton is dryed in the air. 
 
 A quantity of the above-mentioned lixiviums 
 is then poured into a tub in equal portions, fo 
 as to make four hundred quarts. In a part of 
 this liquor, twenty-five pounds of fheeps dung 
 with fome of the intefline liquor is well diluted 
 by means of a wooden peftel, and the whole 
 ftrained through a hair fieve. Twelve pounds 
 and a half of good olive oil poured into this 
 mixture, when finiflied, inftantly forms a foapy 
 liquor. In this the cotton Ihould be dipped, 
 hank by hank, flirring every time, and with the 
 fame precautions I have already recommended 
 in the aluming of cottons deftined for the mad- 
 der red. The cotton having remained twelve 
 hours in this foapy water is then taken out, 
 lightly wrung and dried j this operation is re- 
 peated three times. The liquor that runs from 
 the cotton when wrung, falling again into the 
 
 trough 
 
iDYING COTTON. 465 
 
 trough where the cotton was laid is called Sickiout 
 and Hiould be kept for brightening. 
 
 When the cotton has been three times dipped 
 in this foapy water, and afterwards dryed, it is 
 again dipped three times in another compofition, 
 made in the fame manner as the firfl', with four 
 hundred quarts of lixivium, and twelve pounds 
 and a half of oil, but without the fheeps dung ; the 
 remainder of this liquor is alfo preferved for 
 brightening. The cotton having been dipped 
 in this liquor three times, with the fame pre- 
 cautions, and left in it the above-mentioned time> 
 it is then carefully wafhed at the river to diveft it 
 intirely of the oil, without which the aluming. 
 would not take effeft; having been wafhed, 
 it fliould be as white as if it had been bleached. 
 
 When dry, you proceed in the aluming, which 
 is done twice fuccelTively, but it is needlefs 
 to give a detail of what has been fufficiently ex- 
 plained in the article upon madder red. It is 
 enough in this place^ to fay, that the galls, about 
 a quarter of a pound to every pound of cotton, 
 fhould be pulverized j that fix ounces of alum 
 fhouid be put to the firft aluming ; for the fecond 
 four ounces, and at laft, that an equal quantity 
 of the lixivium be added to the alum water. 
 We muft alfo qbferve, that it were befl to make 
 an interval of three or four days between each 
 aluming, and that no other aftringent be added, 
 all metallic falts being in general injurious to 
 the beauty of the colour* 
 
 Some days after the laft aluming, you proceed 
 to dying, in the fame manner as above, on- 
 ly ufing two pounds of lizary in powder, for 
 H h eveiy 
 
466 THE ART OF 
 
 every pound of cotton, and before you dye, 
 adding to the liquor about twenty pounds of 
 liquid fheeps blood: it ftiould be well ftruck 
 into the liquor, which Ihould be carefully fkim- 
 med. 
 
 In order to brighten the colour, the cotton is 
 dipped in a lixiviunn of frefli wood alhes, dif- 
 folving in it five pounds of the bed white Mar- 
 feilles foap, the water fhould be v/arm before 
 the foap is put into it. In this mixture the 
 hundred pounds of dyed cotton is immerfed, and 
 worked till it becomes perfedlly penetrated. 
 Six hundred quarts of water are then put into 
 another copper, and when warm, the cotton 
 without fqueezing it out of the firft, is put into 
 the fecond, and boiled for three, four, five, or 
 fix hours, over a very flow fire, but as equal as 
 poITible, carefully covering the liquor to keep in 
 the vapour, that none may efcape but what 
 pafles through a funnel of fmall reeds. 
 
 Some pieces of the cotton are taken out from 
 time to time, and when fufficiently revived and 
 wafhed thoroughly, the red is perfe6l. The 
 Cotton may be alfo brightned in the follow- 
 ing manner: when wafhed and dryed imme- 
 diately after dying it fhould be foaked in the 
 Sickiou. for an hour, well fqueezed and alfo dried. 
 "When dry, you difTolve for every hundred pounds 
 of cotton, five pounds of foap in a quantity of 
 water fulficient to cover the cotton. When the 
 water is warm, the cotton is immerfed, and 
 having well imbibed, is put into a copper with 
 fix hundred quarts of water j the whole is boiled 
 very flowly during four or five hours, keeping 
 
 the 
 
DYING COTTON. 467 
 
 the copper covered to prevent the (leam from 
 going off. This fecond method makes the red 
 much brighter than the fined Adrianople car- 
 nation. 
 
 Ohfervations on this Dye. 
 
 ^npHE procefs I have jufl: defcribed was prao- 
 -■• tifed at Darnetal, and in other manu- 
 fadlories of France, according to inftruc- 
 tions communicated by a perfon who had ^cqi\ 
 this procefs in Turkey. But whether his 
 obfervations were inaccurate, whether he con- 
 cealed a part of the myftery, or whether the 
 fuccefs of the operation depended on the con- 
 curring circumllanccs, accompanying the va- 
 rious mixtures, I know not. Few however 
 by clofely obferving this procefs, have hitherto 
 obtained a red, either fo permanent or fo beau- 
 tiful as the red of Adrianople, and thofe v/ho 
 have fucceeded think it but juil to reap the ad- 
 vantage of their fecret. On this fubjed, how- 
 ever, feveral not unufeful reflexions may be 
 advanced. 
 
 ^ Firjl, The manner of purging the cotton in- 
 dicates that this procefs is capable of damaging 
 confiderably, and of rendering the cotton very 
 brittle, owing to the Iharpnefs of the lixivium, in 
 which it is deeped i fo burning in its nature 
 as to make holes in the legs of the work- 
 men who tread it with their feet. It is therefore 
 more fimple and lefs dangerous to cleanfc the 
 cotton in fix quarts of lixivium to every pound 
 of fubftance, and containing only fix ounces of 
 kelp for every fix quarts; to boil the flceins in 
 H h 2 it 
 
4&8 THL ART OF 
 
 it afterwards, inclofed in clean linen pockets, 
 as I have already faid on the article of cleanfing. 
 
 By this method the cotton would be fufficiently 
 cleanfed without being fpoiled, the kelp may be 
 even reduced to half the quantity, fubftituting 
 in its place double its weight of frefh wood afhes, 
 which would anfwer quite as well. 
 
 Secondly, That the failure of many Dyers is 
 owing to their not fufficiently diverting the 
 cotton of the oil, which prevents both the galling 
 and aluming from taking effedl. The mixture 
 of the lixivium and oil not being well made, 
 or the lixivium being too weak, the oil forms 
 ■with it but an imperfe6l: combination. This 
 oil therefore, feparating and fwimming on the 
 furface of the lixivium, flicks to the cotton, 
 which it greafes, and, by obftru6ling the pores, 
 prevents the gall from penetrating. Great 
 attention therefore fhould be given to the lixi- 
 vium, in order to extradt all the fait of the kelp, 
 and to ufe quick lime, which is abfolutely necef- 
 fary to render this lixivium coftic, a quality 
 without which the oil cannot poffibly form a 
 combination with the alkali, confequently can 
 make no foap. 
 
 In Europe the oil of olives is fubHituted inllead 
 of the oil of Sefamunij which is ufed in the Eaft- 
 Indies and in Turkey, but the nature of thefe 
 oils makes no difference in the operation. The 
 oil of Sejamum differs from the oil of olives, 
 only becaufe it is thicker, confequently nearer 
 to the nature of animal fat or wax ; but the con- 
 cKifion refulting from this difference is, that lefs 
 of it may be required than of the oil of olives. 
 4 Were 
 
DYING COTTON. 469 
 
 Were the oil of Sefamum abfolutely neceflary, 
 it might have been eafily procured. The Sefa- 
 wum is a fpecies of Fox-glove, that grows in 
 the Indies, but is cultivated in Italy, and efpe- 
 cially in Sicily, v^'here it is called Giurgulena, 
 The fame kind of oil may be obtained from 
 plants analogous, fuch as the GraUole^ the 
 Henbane, &c. but the plant whofc feed refembles 
 it mod is the Convulvulus, or Lizeron. 
 
 It is certain that the procefs brought from 
 Adrianople might be greatly abridged] but 
 we muft leave the fecret to thofe to whom it 
 belongs, and I am befides convinced that a 
 memoir on this fubjedl will be prcfcnted to the 
 Academy of Sciences, and therefore will not 
 anticipate. 
 
 With regard to the fheep's dung and intefti- 
 nal liquor, it is of no ufe in fixing the colour. 
 But we know that thefe fubftances contain a 
 large quantity of volatile alkali, quite deve- 
 loped, which has the property of rofing the 
 red colours. If the bones of animals owe to 
 their tenacious gluten the faculty of retaining 
 fo ftrongly the madder colour, the vivacity of 
 this colour may be attributed, as from expe- 
 rience we learn, to their volatile alkali. It 
 were abfurd to imagine that the Europeans only 
 had difcovered this phenomenon, as it may be 
 rationally fuppofed that the Indians, having per- 
 ceived it by accident, fought to imitate what 
 chance had brought to their knowledge. It is 
 certain that in the red dye of the MaroqutrtS, 
 the procefs of which was brought from the 
 Levant, they prepared the goat fkins for dying 
 H h 3 with 
 
470 THEARTOF 
 
 with dogs' excrement, having found it cffcdlive 
 
 in exalting the dye of the lac. 
 
 In the dying of cotton thread, it is common 
 to mix the fheep's dung with a lixivium of "fixed 
 alkali, by which the volatile principle of the 
 dung is retained, and confequently putrefa6lion 
 prevented. By dipping the cotton feveral times 
 in this foapy liquor it is impregnated with the 
 predominating alkaline principle, and we know, 
 by experience, that fubflances, once impreg- 
 nated with volatile alkali, for example chymical 
 veflels iifed in extradting it, for a long time 
 retain a fmell very like the fmell of mufk, evea 
 after having been well fcrubbed with fand, afhes, 
 foap, &c. Every time the cotton is dried when 
 taken out of this liquor, the evaporation of the 
 aqueous particles (the alkaline principles being 
 changed into earth) produces a ftronger adhefion 
 in the pores of the cotton. From the union 
 of this earth with a portion of the oil employed, 
 a maflic is the refult, which is afterwards com- 
 pleted by the alum, and this in a word is the 
 theory of the fixity of this colour. 
 
 Linen thread may be dyed in the fame man- 
 ner, only that previous to its being purged like 
 the cotton thread, it is ufual to boil it in water, 
 adding for every pound of thread a quarter of 
 a pound of chopped forrel : oil of vitriol is 
 however more convenient and better than forrel ; 
 but I refer my reader to what I have already 
 faid upon the article of thread, obferving only 
 that by this procefs, the linen thread always 
 takes lefs dye than the cotton, owing to the 
 difff^rence of their pores. 
 
 Of 
 
DYING COTTON. 471 
 
 Of Yellow. 
 
 T?OR this colour the cotton fhould be firft 
 ^ well purged in a lixivium of frefh wood afhes, 
 and afterwards well wafhed and dried. 
 
 You then prepare another liquor, made by 
 diflblving in the water, when ready to boil, 
 about a quarter the weight of the fubflance to 
 be dyed, of Roman alum. The fkeins are 
 plunged into this alum liquor, returning them 
 on the rods for fome minutes. When equally 
 penetrated throughout, the threads by which 
 the flceins are tied being pafled on the rods, the 
 hanks are laid on the trough containing the 
 alum liquor. The copper or trough is then 
 covered, it being fufficient to keep the liquor 
 hot without boiling. The cotton, having been 
 thus infufed for twenty-four hours, is then dried, 
 but without wafliing. We mufi: obferve that 
 the longer it remains dry the better it takes the 
 colour, and that the wafliing may be even dif- 
 penfed with previous to the yellow dye.. 
 
 A ftrong v/eld liquor is afterwards prepared, 
 adding for every pound of the fubflance to be 
 dyed a pound and a quarter of weld. The 
 cotton or thread, having been previoufly alumed, 
 is then immerfed; the boiling checked with 
 cold water, and the fubftance worked till ic 
 has taken the fliade required. 
 
 The whole when died is plunged into a very 
 hot liquor, but not boiling, made of blue vitriol, 
 a quarter of a pound for every pound of the 
 fubftance. When it has remained for about an 
 hour and half, the whole, without wafliing, 
 H h 4 ^ is 
 
47« THEARTOF 
 
 is thrown into another liquor, compofed of 
 about a quarter of a pound of white foap for 
 every pound of the fubftance. Having been 
 well worked and the threads opened, it fhould 
 boil for three hours, or more if you think pro- 
 per. The foap might be dicoinifhed to half 
 the quantity, but the full proportion does better. 
 This operation finifhed, the whole is well wafhed 
 and dried. 
 
 If you defire a dark or jonquil yellow, neither 
 the linen nor cotton fliould be alumed j but, for 
 every pound of thread, fliould be added two 
 pounds and a half of weld. When it has been 
 dipped and well worked in this liquor till 
 it has taken the colour equally, it is raifed above 
 the liquor, and half a pint of the kelp lixivium 
 poured into it, made as I have direded in the 
 article upon red. The thread is then returned 
 upon the rods, dipped in this liquor, where 
 having remained for a full quarter of an hour 
 it is taken out, wrung, and dried. 
 
 The lemon yellow is done after the fame man- 
 ner, only that for every pound of thread you put 
 but one pound of weld, diminifhing the verdigris 
 in proportion, or even omitting it entirely by 
 fubftituting in its place the alum liquor. By 
 this means the yellow (hade may be varied ad 
 infinitum J and without any difficulty s in brighten- 
 ing and fixing the colour, however, the above 
 method mud be always obferved. 
 
 This method of fixing the colour of the weld, 
 fo accidentally difcovered, is a ftriking example 
 of the ancient operation which they termed 
 coloxis alle^atio. It were to be wilhed, in order 
 
 to 
 
DYING COTTON. 473 
 
 to extend the tifc of it to other colours, that it 
 were poflible to difcover why calx of iron and 
 copper has this property. It feems to proceed 
 from the fame caufe which makes both thefe 
 metals foluble in fixed alkali, differing in this 
 particular from all other metals. Mr. Geoffroy 
 luppofed a bituminous matter to exift in iron, 
 which is very probable, as alio in copper. It 
 is very certain that you give fixed alkali the 
 property of diflblving other metals by phlogif- 
 ticating with bullock's blood : does this proceed 
 from phlogifton or from the animal oil, and a 
 certain tenacious gluten which it is extremely 
 difficult to feparate from the Pruffian blue, and 
 different from phlogifton ? 
 
 Cotton velvet is dyed with the root of a plant 
 called cur cum y or Terra-merita, a fpecies of rufh 
 which comes from the Eaft-Indies. It gives a 
 beautiful yellow colour j but if died in the 
 common manner has but little folidity. I know 
 by experience that this colour may be fixed by 
 dipping the linen or cotton thread in a folution 
 of fulphur of antimony in the lixivium of fixed 
 alkali : it will then perfeflly rcfifb the air, 
 and cotton velvet thus dyed is very pleafing to 
 the eye. 
 
 Of Green. 
 
 T I NEN or cotton thread to be dyed green, 
 after having been previoufly cleanfed, Ihould 
 be dyed in the blue vat according to the Ihade 
 required j it fhould then be well rinced in water 
 and dried. It is impoffible to give any pofitive 
 rules concerning the ground of the blue or of 
 
 the 
 
474 THE ART OF 
 
 the yellow, as that depends more or lefs on the 
 colour you wifh to predominate, or on the 
 ground for the mixture required. Cuftom and 
 the eye mull be the Dyer/s guide in this par- 
 ticular. 
 
 Cotton velvets are feldom dyed with weld. 
 To dye green they are yellowed with Terra' 
 merita^ and afterwards greened with a compo- 
 fition of the Saxon blue; nor is it of any con- 
 fcquence whether you begin with the blue or 
 the yellow. 
 
 Cotton velvets, as well as the Ikeins, may 
 
 be dyed green in a fingle liquor and by a very 
 limple procefs; but which will produce only 
 green water or apple green. 
 
 Difiblve two ounces of verdigris in a very fmall 
 quantity of vinegar, then add about half a pint of 
 vinegar, pour the whole into a bottle, cork 
 it well and keep it in a ftove for a fortnight. 
 Four hours before it is ufed, you boil two ounces 
 of pearl-afhes in a quart of water till reduced 
 to half that quantity. Draw it off clear, add- 
 ing it to the verdigris and vinegar mixture, 
 keeping the whole hot. Prepare the thread by 
 dipping it in an alum liquor, about an ounce 
 of alum and five quarts of water for every 
 pound of the fubftance. Moiften it in this 
 liquor as hot as you can bear it to your hand. 
 The thread or velvet is then raifed, the verdi- 
 gris added to the liquor, and the fubftance again 
 dipped and dyed. 
 
 Of 
 
DYING COTTON. 475 
 
 Of Violet. 
 
 'T^HE moft common method of dying thread 
 •^ and cotton violet is, immediately to give 
 them a blue ground, in a vat proportioned to the 
 fhade required, and then drying. They are 
 afterwards galled in a liquor containing, for 
 every pound of the fubftancc, three ounce-s of 
 galls; they remain twelve or fifteen hours in 
 this gall liquor, when they are taken out, wrung, 
 and again dried. Mean while a logwood liquor 
 is prepared, by boiling for three or four hours, 
 in fifteen or fixteen quarts of water, about half 
 a pound of logwood for every pound of the 
 fubftance. The half of this liquor is afterwards 
 poured into a trough, and the cotton dipped 
 in it till it has equally imbibed the colour, 
 when it is taken out, and for every pound of 
 cotton or thread two drachms of alum and one 
 of verdigris diflblved is added to the liquor. 
 The fkeins are again dipped on the rods, and 
 returned during a full quarter of an hour; they 
 are then taken out, cooled, and again entirely 
 immerfed for another quarter of an hour, when 
 they are taken out and wrung. This dying liquor 
 is at laft emptied out of the trough, and the 
 other half of the logwood liquor poured into 
 it, with the addition of two drachms of alum; 
 the thread is again dipped till it has taken the 
 Hiade required. 
 
 This fecond logwood liquor, as well as the 
 
 firft, may be more or lefs ftrong in proportion 
 
 to the fliade required, in fuch a manner that, 
 
 if very deep, you double the quantity of the 
 
 3 logwood 
 
476 THE ART OF 
 
 logwood for the fecond liquor onlyj but as one 
 boiling does not extra6t the logwood dye, you 
 may after the firfl dye, by way of oeconomy, 
 pour frefh water on the remainder of the log- 
 wood. It fliould be again boiled, and the 
 weakeft of it may beufed for the firfl: dipping. 
 
 This violet refifts the air tolerably well, but 
 neverthelefs cannot be deemed of the good dye. 
 Very permanent violets are produced by com- 
 bining the madder dye with aftringents: this 
 has the advantage of being neither tedious nor 
 expenfivej it requires only that the thread fhcruld 
 be impregnated, previous to its being maddered, 
 with an afl:ringent : as the bafis of this aftrin- 
 gent is the fame commonly ufed for black and 
 its various fhades, it may be necefiary in this 
 place to give the compofition. 
 
 Take a hundred quarts of four wine, bad 
 vinegar, or fmall beer; put to either of thefe 
 liquors twenty, or five-and-twenty pounds of 
 old iron, having expofed it for two nights to the 
 dew. Wet with fome of this beer about twelve 
 pounds of rye-meal, or coarfe bran^ put this 
 mixture into the vefTel containing the hundred 
 quarts of beer ; pour a part of this liquor into 
 a copper, heating it enough to warm the whole 
 when mixed together. Let it afterwards Hand 
 for fix weeks or two months, or more, becaufe 
 the older this compofition the better it is. The 
 veflel fhould be covered with a cloth, and a 
 plank over it, to preferve it from dufl: and infeflsi 
 taking care only to let in air enough to encourage 
 the neceffary fermentation. 
 
 Cotton 
 
D Y I N G C O T T O N. 477 
 
 Cotton or thread to be dyed violet, is 
 cleanfed as ufual, preparing at the fame time 
 an aftringent liquor, compofed of, for every 
 pound of the fubftance, two quarts of this 
 black liquor, and four quarts of water put into 
 a boiler over the fire, boiling and fkumming 
 it for half an hour till no more fkum rifes, 
 when it is taken off the fire, poured into a 
 trough, and whilfl no more than warm, four 
 ounces of blue vitriol and one of faltpctre, is 
 diffolved in a part of this liquor. The fkeins 
 are returned in this aftringent either warm or 
 cold, where they are fuffered to remain for 
 ten or twelve hours, and then wrung and dried. 
 When ready for maddering they are well waflied 
 in running water, carefully drained, and then 
 dipped in a liquor of Dutch madder, contain- 
 ing for every pound of the fubftance one pound 
 of madder. 
 
 By this aftringent it is eafy to procure all the 
 violet ftiades, from the panfy flower up to the 
 lilac and gray violet; but experience is better than 
 rules. If a dark violet be required, it is done by 
 adding to this aftringent two ounces of verdi- 
 gris; or if ftill deeper, by galling the thread 
 more or Icfs, previous to its being dipped, and 
 by omitting the faltpetre. By augmenting the 
 quantity of the latter, and diminifliing that of 
 the blue vitriol, the violet will have more of 
 the lilac, and by adding a little of the red aftrin- 
 gent, more or lefs of the red. In Ihort, diffe- 
 rent quantities of the black liquor and water, 
 and different degrees of galling, will produce 
 fhades without number, and even different browns. 
 
 0/ 
 
4<jt THEARTOF 
 
 Of Red Cinnamon. 
 
 THIS colour is nothing naore than a mixture 
 of yellow with the red of madder, which 
 not being fo free as the cochineal, is incapable of 
 producing, by its mixture with the yellow, 
 an orange colour like that ingredient. 
 
 Thread or cotton intended for this dye fhould 
 be firft cleanfed, and then dyed yellow with 
 verdigris and weld, as above. When this dye 
 has been well fixed, by dipping the Ikeins in 
 a liquor of blue vitriol, about half an ounce 
 to a pound of the fubftance, it is wrung and dried. 
 
 When dry they are galled, in the proportion 
 of three ounces of galls for every pound, in 
 the fame manner and with the fame precautions 
 as I have related in the article on reds. When 
 the fkeins are dry they are alumed in the fame 
 manner as for red, and afterwards maddered 
 in the fame manner, that is, a pound of madder 
 to every pound of fubftance. 
 
 When the fkeins are dyed and wafhed, they 
 are dipped in a very hot foap-water, in the fame 
 manner as for yellow thread, but without boiling. 
 The fkeins are then returned till they become 
 fufficiently brightened, and are diverted of the 
 fuperfiuous vitriol^ by which the colour is 
 tarnilhed. 
 
 Of Black. 
 
 ^nr^HE various procefles hitherto known for 
 
 -■' producing black on wool and filk, infuffi- 
 
 cient as they are with regard to thofe two fub- 
 
 ftances, though generally followed, are fj^ll 
 
 iefs 
 
DYING COTTON. 479 
 
 lefs proper for linen or cotton thread, the pores 
 of which, as we have feen, are lefs open and 
 lefs numerous. The various procefles for dying 
 black, agree in the fole intention of introducing, 
 within the pores of the ftuff, ferruginous particles 
 diflblved in different menftrua,andof precipitating 
 them on the fluff by means of aflringent fubflances 
 furnifhed with phlogiflon capable of colouring 
 iron black. The beft method, therefore, offuc- 
 cceding, is to choofe a folvent capable of divid- 
 ing the particles fo minutely that the calx may not 
 injure the fluff. Copperas or green vitriol arc 
 ufed in thefe proceffes j but the iron it contains 
 is by no means in a flate of perfedl divifion» 
 on account of the phlogiflon obflinately retained 
 by the iron, which facilitates its union with the 
 acid without the iron being perfe6lly difTolved. 
 It is for this reafon, doubtlefs, that a folution 
 of green vitriol in water, depofites in lime a 
 fpecies of ocre, which according to M. Geoffroy, 
 feems to be an extraneous fubflance. For the 
 fame reafon the fpirit of nitre, faturated with 
 iron, will diffolve Hill more, by abandoning the 
 groffer particles of what it firft held in folution, 
 and of which it retains only the phlogiflon. 
 
 This being the cafe whenever copperas is 
 ufed in dying of black, the fluffs died are gene- 
 rally harlh to the feel and confiderably damaged, 
 becaufe the grofs particles of the iron being 
 only divided, and not diffolved by the vitriolic 
 acid of the copperas, overfill the pores of the 
 (luff into which they had entered, and by their 
 hardnefs extending the partition of thefe pores 
 force them afunder. M. Hellot very well 
 
 obferves 
 
4S6 THfiARTOF 
 
 obfcrvcs that cloth dyed black without a blue of 
 root ground, requires a greater quantity of cop-- 
 peras, by which the fluff is rendered rotten ; 
 but I have alfo remarked, that when diflblving 
 the ruft of iron in vinegar, either for yellow oi* 
 for the black of painted linens, it is apt to tear in 
 the parts where thefe colours are applied, parti- 
 cularly if there has been no attention to take off 
 the groffer earth by fkimming the folution. To 
 this earth therefore the rottennefs of black ftuff 
 may be attributed, and not as vulgarly imagined, 
 to the fait of vitriol, nor to any other burning 
 caufe. 
 
 And therefore, in order to render the colour 
 more equal, and the ftuffs lefs damaged, the 
 beft method for black is to ufea folution of iron, 
 perfeftly divided. Confequently, as experience 
 daily teaches, thofe acids which attack the iron 
 too rapidly are the leaft proper to produce a 
 perfe6t folution of this metal. Weak acids are 
 therefore preferable, which notwithftanding their 
 flow operation, penetrate entirely, dividing it 
 into impalpable particles. This advantage is 
 evident in the black compofition which I have 
 already given in the article on Violets, ferving as 
 a bafis to the black of linen thread and cotton 
 and their fliadesj and which fucceed much bet- 
 ter in proportion as the black liquor is older, 
 and confequently the folution of the iron more 
 complete. The manufafturers in India are fo 
 truely fenfible of this confequence, that many of 
 them preferve their black vats for more than 
 twenty years. In the flates of Genoa, Florence, 
 and Naples, every manufafluring city has a 
 
 place 
 
DYING COTTON. 481 
 
 place of referve, called the Seraglio, where at the 
 public expence eight or ten vats are continually 
 fupported. Thefe vats have been fet from three to 
 four hundred years, more or lefs j that is, pre- 
 pared for the dipping of filk defigned for black, 
 and requiring only to be fupplied with proper 
 drugs in proportion as they are diminifhed by 
 life ; the ground remaining always the fame, 
 forms a kind of leaven, by which the fermenta- 
 tion of the neceflary additional drugs is afiifted. 
 
 The procefs at Rouen for dying linen and 
 cotton thread black, is firft to give it a fky- 
 blue ground, and then to wring and dry. It is 
 afterwards galled, a quarter of a pound of galls 
 for every pound of the fubftance (as for reds) j 
 having remained four-and-twenty hours in thp 
 gall liquor, it is again wrung and dried. 
 
 About five quarts of the black liquor for every 
 pound, is then poured into a trough (as defcri- 
 bed in the article on violets). The cotton is 
 then dipped and worked with the hand, pound 
 by pound, for about a quarter of an hour: 
 then wrung and aired. This operation is twice 
 repeated, adding each time a frefh quantity of 
 the black liquor, carefully fliimmed j it is again 
 aired, wrung, waflied at the river, well drained 
 and dried. 
 
 When this cotton is to be dyed, about one 
 pound of the rind of the Alder tree, for every 
 pound of thread, is put into a copper and boiled 
 in a fufficient quantity of water during one 
 hour ; about half the liquor that had been ufed 
 for the galling is then added, with about half 
 the weight of the rind 0/ the Alder, of Su- 
 
 I i mach. 
 
482 THEARTOF 
 
 mach. The whole is again boiled for two hour?, 
 after which it is ftrained throuo-h a fieve. When 
 jt is cold, the cotton is dipped in it on the rods, 
 and worked, pound by pound ; from time to 
 time airing, and returning it into the liquor, 
 where having remained twenty-four hours, it is 
 wrung and dried. 
 
 For foftening this cotton when too harlh, it is 
 the cuftom to foak it in the remainder of the 
 weld-liquor that had been ufed for other colours, 
 adding a little of the logwood liquor; it is then 
 taken out, and inflantly plunged into a trough 
 of warm water, into which had been poured 
 about an ounce of the oil of olives for every 
 pound of the fubftance j it is then wrung and 
 dried. 
 
 M. I'Abbe Mazcas has given a procefs for the 
 dying of linen and cotton thread black, by mad- 
 dering after having prepared with iht fick'icu of 
 the Adrianople red, galling and dipping in an 
 aftringent compofed of lime water and green 
 copperas, calcined. This procefs, though long 
 and expenfive, is m my mind no better than 
 thofe I have juft defcribed. In order to obtain a 
 permanent black, it is my opinion that we muft 
 ftill have recourfe to the black refulting from a 
 combination of tae three primitive colours, un- 
 til we difcover fecul^ capable of yielding a 
 direft black. I fhall now defcribe a procefs in 
 which I myfelfhave fucceeded perfectly. 
 
 Black 
 
 I 
 
DYING COTTON. 4S3 
 
 Black for Linen and Cot (on Thread by a Comhination 
 of Colours. 
 
 TT is ncccfTary to begin bycleanfing the thread 
 -*- as ufual by galling, in the fame manner as 
 mentioned in the article upon red, alluming af- 
 terwards and then dipping in a weld liquof. 
 When taken out of this liquor, it muft be dyed 
 in a decoflion of logwood, to which has been 
 added a quarter of a pound of blue vitriol for 
 every pound of the fubltance. It is then taken out, 
 wafhed at the river, wrung, and waflied feveral 
 times, but not wrung hard : It is at laft dyed 
 in a madder liquor, about half a pound of this 
 dye for every pound of the fubftance. It is 
 needlefs to repeat here the manner of galling, 
 alluming, and welding, &c. having defcribed 
 them above. 
 
 By this procefs we may reft afTurcd of obtain- 
 ing a very beautiful and permanent black, that 
 will not be liable to be difcharged, provided that 
 after having been dyed the thread be dipped in 
 a boiling Ibap liquor. 
 
 Of Gray. 
 
 CEVER AL different fhadesof Gray are dillin- 
 gui filed in the Art of Dying, iiiz. Black-grayy 
 Iron-gray, Slate-gray, Thorn-gray, Agate- 
 gray, &c. It is eafy to conceive that Gray in 
 general, being a mixture of black and white, 
 its different fludes can be obtained only by in- 
 troducing into the fubjeifl a fiTir.ll quantity of 
 marteri by which the rays of light are abforbed 
 in fuch a manner that Ibme of the pores not be- 
 
 I i 2 ing 
 
484. THEARTOF 
 
 ing occupied, , refleft all the rays and prefent 
 to the eye a gray colour, by means of the 
 black particles contained in the intermediate 
 pores. This operation in dying is therefore pre- 
 cifely the fame as in painting, which produces 
 Gray by a mixture of lamp-black and of white 
 lead. 
 
 It would be too tedious and even fuperfluous, 
 to defcribe the different procefles, for the feveral 
 Grays I have jufl: mentioned. The Dyer will be 
 better able to judge of thefe Ihades by his eye, 
 than by any particular rules. All that can be 
 faid is, that it is the common pradice to give a 
 blue ground to Black-gray, Iron-gray, and Slate- 
 gray ; but to none of the others. Thefe fhades 
 require alluming in proportion to the fhade 
 wanted, and are even frequently galled with li- 
 quors that had been previoully ufed. 
 
 The thread having been firfl galled, wrung, 
 and dried, is dipped on the rods, in a trough 
 full of cold water, adding an arbitrary quantity 
 of the black liquor and of the logwood decoc- 
 tion. The thread is then worked pound by 
 pound, wafhed, wrung and dried. 
 
 Of more durable Grays. 
 
 TT is pofTible to produce more permanent 
 ■*• Grays by the two following procefTes. 
 
 Firft, by galling the thread, by dipping in a 
 very weak black vat or liquor, and afterwards 
 maddering. 
 
 Secondly, by dipping the thread in a very hot 
 folution of cryftals of tartar, lightly wringing and 
 then drying. The thread is then dyed in a de- 
 
 co6tion 
 
 ' I 
 
DYING COTTON. 485 
 
 coftion of logwood: it appears black, but by 
 dipping the thread, and working it attentively 
 in a hot folution of foap, the fuperfiuous dye 
 being difcharged, it remains a ilate gray, very 
 pretty ^nd very permanent. 
 
 Of Mujk colour. 
 
 ''T^HE dyers of Rouen dyed this colour by 
 ^ galling, dipping in the black vat, after- 
 wards welding, fixing, as already faid, with 
 verdigris, and at laft dipping in the madder 
 liquor. It is evident, that all this ftill operates 
 by a combination of colours ; but indeed this 
 fhade does not d^eferve lb much trouble and ex- 
 pence, 
 
 Oliv( and Duck Greens, 
 
 'TpHE various fhades of thefe colours are all 
 -■' produced by giving the thread a blue 
 ground, galling, dipping in the black liquor 
 either ftrong or weak, then in the weld dye 
 with verdigris (as mentioned in the article upon 
 yellow) fixing in a liquor of blue vitriol, and 
 brightening with foap. Thefe various fhades 
 merit no further detail, as the eye of the work- 
 man will be his belt guide. 
 
 A very fine olive is produced by boiling in 
 a fufficient quantity of water, four parts weld 
 to one of pot-alhj you then boil feparately a 
 little verdigris with fome Brafil wood which had 
 been ftceped the preceeding night; thefe folu- 
 tions being mixed together in different pro- 
 portions, according to the fhade required, the 
 thread is then dipped in the mixture, 
 
 Ii3 If 
 
486 THE ART OF 
 
 If you require a more permanent olive, you 
 make an aftringent liquor, compofed of three 
 ounces of alum three ounces of nitre, two ounces 
 of fea-falt, and half an ounce of fal-ammoniac. 
 The thread being well foaked in this aftringent, 
 and but lightly wrung and dried, is then dyed in 
 the madder. This colour is extremely permanent, 
 and it is eafy to conceive that by varying the 
 quantities of the madder and of the aftringents, 
 an infinity of fhades may be obtained. 
 
 Of BrozvnSj Marones, Coffee coloursy ^c. 
 
 TT would anfwer no purpofe to enlarge this 
 "^ this treatife with a needlefs detail of all 
 the poffible methods of procuring the various 
 ihades of thefe feveral colours j the whole con- 
 iifting in the ufe of gall, verdigris, blue vitriol, 
 weld, and madder. 
 
 By welding of ftuff previoufly m-addered for 
 red, you produce a gold colour; by dipping 
 the fame red in a blue vat, a plumb colour. 
 
 Of Silk Stuffs dyed of feveral colours. 
 
 * i ^HE art of ftaining cloth, according to Pliny, 
 -*- came originally from the Egyptians; they 
 moft probably taught the Arabs the method of 
 dying filk ftuffs of various colours, as now pro- 
 duced in great part of Afia, and by the Saracens 
 carried into Spain, where it is particularly in ufe. 
 The procefs of the Afiatics, more patient 
 than ourfelves, confided in tying a number 
 of knots on filk handkerchiefs, with fo much 
 addrefs that when plunged into the liquor 
 
 thofe 
 5 
 
DYING COTTON 487 
 
 thofe parts under the knots took, none of the 
 dye, fo that the handkerchiefs when dried and 
 untyed, prefented a red ftufF ftrcwed with yellow, 
 or white flowers very artfully imagined. The 
 Europeans, in order to fhorten the procefs, 
 invented molds made of iron or lead, which 
 being dipped in a prepared wax and previoufly 
 applied to the filks or ftufFs in fiov/ers or com- 
 partments, preferved the parts which they 
 would not have dyed from being penetrated. 
 Many of thefe ftufFs were fold about twenty 
 years ago, fome of them having a brown ground 
 with red and yellow flowers, and fome a red 
 ground with blue and yellow flowers; thefe 
 were called Landerins, Furies, Foulards, &c. 
 probably the names of the people by whom 
 they were fabricated. The little care however 
 taken in the manufaftory of thefe ftuTs, fre- 
 quently very unequally woven, and made only 
 of the refufe filk, or rather the fubfequent intro- 
 du6lion of the Cirfakes, was the caufe of their 
 being entirely aboliflied. 
 
 The colouring fubfl:ances employed for dying 
 thefe ftufi^s red, as v/ell by the Europeans as by 
 the Indians, refide in the flower of that genus 
 of plants called by the Greeks Kvbho; and (povo^, 
 byTheophraftus, Atra5lylis, Sanguen Hominis, Firga 
 Janguinea. The original name of the fpecies 
 in queftion is doubtlefs kartham, fo called by 
 the Arabs and Saracens, by whofe means we 
 became not only acquainted with this plant itfelf, 
 but with the method of ufing it. Before their 
 irruption into Europe, feveral fpecies of the 
 Cnicus were difcovered, from the branches of 
 ^ i 4 which 
 
488 THEARTOF 
 
 which iiTued a red colour, though not in a fuffi- 
 cient quantity for ufe. The fpecies we now 
 fpeak of was in Pliny's time unknown in Europe, 
 as may be feen in Book XXI. Chap. XV. where 
 he fays, "There are yet feveral common herbs; 
 but they greatly prize the CmcuSy an herb un^ 
 known in Italy : neverthelefs they do not eat 
 it; but extrad oil from the feed." The Baleyens at 
 prefent regale with the feed, which they eat raw, 
 and before it is ripe mixed with an infufion of 
 caleppe nuts. They make the fame ufe of it ir^ 
 China, where it grows to a confiderable height. 
 In Afia it is called CaJJombe \ in Italy Croco fyhaiico 
 t? Zaffarano Jarracinejco \ and in France it is 
 called Carthame^ or Bajlard Saffron, Carlhanms 
 officinarum flore croceo. It has fome affinity 
 "with the Carduus henedi^us. 
 
 The flower from which the dye is extrafted 
 is compofed of feveral petals, divided into five 
 parts, of a yellow colour, but degenerating to 
 red as the flowers begin to ripen. When ripe 
 enough to gather, which cannot be done at once, 
 the external petals which begin to droop, are 
 firfl: gathered, becaufe the mofl: red, leaving 
 the fmall bunches in the middle. In proper 
 time when thefe bunches begin to ripen, and 
 after fome days to redden, they are alfo gathered. 
 In gathering thefe flowers it is neceflfary to 
 ufe fome precaution, and therefore they cover 
 the face in order to preferve it from the thorns. 
 They are generally gathered either in the morn- 
 ing or evening when the ftalks are lefs ftrong, 
 confequently kfs dangerous : fome of the flowers 
 are left for feed. 
 
 The 
 
DYING COTTON. 4S9 
 
 The Indian women bruife the flowers of 
 this plant with rice meal, and a little of the 
 deco<5bion of the caleppe nuts, for painting their 
 faces. The Sacarens probably introduced this 
 compofition into Spain, from whence the fafhion 
 paded into France. Certain it is that with the 
 flowers of Carthame they formerly made a red 
 paint for the toilet, known by the name of 
 Rouge d'Efpagnej but fince the difcovery of 
 cochineal this rouge gave place to carmine. 
 Some, however, complaining of the effefts of 
 carmine, which is not always divefted of the 
 acid, returned to the Rouge d'Efpagne, making 
 it a myftery, and vending it as a novelty. 
 
 I {hall now give the Afiatic procefs for dying 
 their cloth and filk ftufFs with thefe flowers. 
 They take a certain quantity, which they divide 
 into two equal parts, which they fpread on two 
 pieces of white cloth, fupported by rods as for 
 filtering. They put a veilel under each cloth, 
 and then pour clean water over it, till it is no 
 longer coloured by the flowers. 
 
 The firft water is a deep yellow, and good 
 for nothing. For this reafon fome of the Indians 
 reject this method, and begin by diverting the 
 flowers of their firft dye by wafliing them in 
 running water, forming them into bails, and 
 drying them in the fun for ufe. Almoft all 
 the reft of Afia, particularly the Baleyens, 
 who excell in this dye, dry their flowers 
 without wafhing. They have afterwards more 
 trouble in extrafting the yellow colour, but 
 are perfuaded that the red is much more per- 
 manent. 
 
 When 
 
450 THEARTOF 
 
 When the water poured over thefe flowers 
 contains no more of the yellow colour, the Indians 
 plunge their cloth into the fecond water, which 
 has but a flight tinil of yellow. When it is 
 well drenched, this v/ater is thrown away, and 
 the cloth is again dipped in the fecond, and fo 
 on to the third, which operation lafts about 
 two hours. The cloth having ioibibed in thefc 
 waters a flight tincl of carnation, is afterwards 
 taken out and dried. 
 
 The flowersj when entirely divelled of their 
 yellow colour, are pounded, and by the Indians 
 made into a pafle, which they put into an 
 earthen difh, as a metal velTel would counterafl 
 the fuccefs of the operation. They likewife 
 put into another difli a handful of the aflies 
 of the rinds and leaves of fix different plants, 
 not at all elTential to the operation, fince in 
 fome places they ufe for this purpofe a fait 
 brought from Siam, where, in certain provinces, 
 and at certain feafons of the year, they find it 
 on the furface of the earth. They imagine, 
 however, that this lixivium is too ftrong for 
 their fine cloth, having remarked that one ladle 
 of this lixivium is as acrid as fix times as much 
 of any other. 
 
 It is very probable that this fait is nothing 
 more than the nitre of the ancients, in our time 
 known by the name of natrona, which is an 
 alkaline fait of the nature of mineral alkali, 
 found in Egypt and other hot climates, cryfta- 
 lized amongft the fands, bordering on certain 
 fait water lakes. It is generally mixed with a 
 
 quantity 
 
DYING COTTON. 491 
 
 quantity of marine fait, which gives it great 
 acrimony. 
 
 The Siam women prepare this colour, and 
 add to the afhes already mentioned feveral aro- 
 matic herbs, to drive out, as they fay, the bad 
 air, adding other ceremonies; feveral of them 
 however difpcnfe with thefe ceremonies, only 
 ufing good afhes and choofing a mild feafon for 
 the preparation of this colour in the following 
 manner : 
 
 They take a pinch of the afhes for every 
 handful of flowers; they knead it, till being 
 well mixed, without any addition of water, 
 they form a mafs, into which they make many 
 incifions with a knife, from whence ifTues a 
 very dark red juice. This pafle is divided into 
 two equal parts ; they then fpread two bits of 
 linen on rods, in a loofe manner, putting in 
 the middle of each cloth one or two leaves of 
 arum, through which they make a iiole in order 
 to facilitate the draining of the dye. For this 
 purpofe they make ufe of wild arum, the leaves 
 of which are eighteen inches broad. 
 
 Having placed thefe leaves on the cloth and 
 and upon each a part of the pafle, they pour 
 clean water (rain water to choofe) over one of 
 them, which is received by a vefTel underneath 
 the one that drains, in order to pour it over 
 the other; they add frefh water to the firfl, 
 which is afterwards poured over the fecond, and 
 fo on till the water has no more colour. Thffe 
 waters are kept feparately, in order to ufe upjon 
 occafion that which is more or lefs charged with 
 the colouring matter. The dregs of the flowers 
 
 bcins: 
 
492 Tlf E A RT OF 
 
 being exhaufted of colour are thrown away as 
 ufelefs. 
 
 The colour thus extra£led is a dark red, but 
 not very pleafmg: they brighten it however 
 by pouring into each vefiTelj containing the 
 different infufions, a fmall quantity of lemon 
 juice of the foureft kind. The Baleyens not 
 having many lemons in their country, fubftitute 
 in their (lead the pulfe of tamarinds infufed in 
 water, and in want of thefe make ufe of the 
 juice of barberries. 
 
 This juice being poured into the coloured 
 liquors, immediately changes them to a bright 
 red colour, the fhade of v/hich is neverthelefs 
 proportioned to the quantity of colour contained 
 in each veffel, fo that the veflel which had 
 received the firft infufion, being more faturated 
 than the laft, becomes a rofe colour, which is 
 of admirable ufe in the different Ihades of this 
 dye. 
 
 For this purpofe, having knotted the cloth 
 as I have already faid, they pour a certain 
 quantity of water into a veiTcl proportioned to 
 the quantity of cloth. To this is added fome 
 of the cleareft of the dye, into which the cloth 
 i's plunged till it has taken all the colour. The 
 water is then thrown away, and the cloth lightly 
 wrung, and again immerfed in frelh water, to 
 which is added a frclh quantity of the dye. 
 The weakeft in colour having been ufed, the 
 following is taken, till that alfo being exhaufted, 
 they finifh with the firfl: which is the darkeft j 
 but this laft they never ufe for rofe colour, referv- 
 
 ing 
 
DYING COTTON. 493 
 
 ing it for the darkeft reds, and for thofe cloths 
 which they would have almoft purple. 
 
 When their cloth is dyed they dry it in the 
 air; but not in the fun. The next day they dip 
 it lightly in lemon juice, and again dry it. The 
 cloth thus dyed is of a rofy red, a little inclining 
 to violet. The Afiatics confider this Ihade as 
 a modeft colour, proper for grave perfons and 
 mothers of families. 
 
 To enliven this red and make it more of the 
 fcarlet, they add to the flowers, whilft bruifing, 
 a little Curcuma^ which brightens more or lefs 
 according to the quantity added. Of thefe 
 callicoes they make handkerchiefs for prefents 
 from lovers to their miftreflesj pocket hand- 
 kerchiefs, veils for their women, and turbans. 
 
 Thefe colours are extremely delicate, very 
 liable to be damaged by the lead moifture or 
 rain, and fo eafily changed, even by the air, 
 that as foon as they come within doors they fold 
 their handkerchiefs up, wrap them in paper, 
 and carefully lock them in drawers to prevent 
 them from being rumpled. They even carrv 
 this attention fo far as to repair the injury they 
 had received, by dipping them the next day in 
 an infufion of caleppe nuts with lemon juice. 
 
 The Baleyens and the inhabitants of Java 
 fancy that the Carthamus furnifhes a more per- 
 manent colour in their own country, becaufe 
 that inftead of lemon juice they ufe the pulp 
 of the tamarind, which they call Badong^ and 
 which our botanids call tamaringus. This fruit 
 is the produce of a tree growing in Ceylon, 
 in height and the (hape of its leaves fomething 
 like that producing the nutmeg. 
 
494 THEARTOF 
 
 The manner of Jiamping filksy i^c, in Europe; 
 
 FOR this purpofe they iifc Landrins, thiri 
 taffetas, and flight lilks. The red with 
 yellow flowers are firft dyed yellow with Terra- 
 meritat to which fome add fuftic. This colour, 
 though pleafing, has but little Iblidity j and is 
 ufed only becaufe the (luffs are low priced. It 
 might however be fixed by the methods I have 
 defcribed in the dying of cotton thread. 
 
 When the fl:uff^s have been thus dyed yellow 
 and dried, the prepared wax is applied on fuch 
 parts as are meant to remain yellow, in the 
 following manner: A wooden block is en- 
 graved in flowers or compartments. The im- 
 preffion is then taken off in fand, into which 
 molten leader tin being poured, forms a block 
 of lead or tin flmilar to the wooden one. It 
 fliould have a button or handle for the con- 
 veniency of holding. The fl:uff is fprcad on 
 a table and the mold impregnated with the wax 
 by means of a leather cufliion, and then applied 
 to the ftuff. 
 
 This compofltion conrifl:s of four parts fuet, 
 and one part wax, melted in a fufEcient 
 quantity of oil. Theft:uff thus printed, requires 
 nothing more than to give it the red dye in the 
 following manner : 
 
 One pound of Carthame, or Baftard faffron, 
 or more according to the quantity of the ft:uff, 
 is put into a linen bag, and well wafhed at the 
 river till the water comes off clear and without 
 colour. It is then taken out of the bag and 
 
 dried 
 
DYING COTTON. 495 
 
 dried in the fhade. A quarter of a pound of 
 Alicant Soda, being pounded, is put over a 
 clear fire in order to evaporate the moifture 
 as much as pofTible. When dry, it is mixed 
 with Jafframmy previoudy broken with the 
 hand to prevent it from gathering into 
 lumps, and to facilitate its mixture with the 
 Soda. This mixture is afterwards put into a 
 white linen bag, fattened in fuch a manner as 
 to leave fufficient room. The bag is then put 
 into a vefiTcl with a hole in the bottom, to which 
 is applied either ftraw or fpunge, as for filtering 
 a lixivium. Another velTel is placed underneath 
 to receive the boiling water thrown over the 
 bacr, and which becomes red gradually. If 
 deficient in colour, notwithftanding that the 
 Jaffranum is of the befl: quality, it proceeds from 
 the weaknefs of the Soda. This muft be imme- 
 diately remedied, by pouring into the upper 
 s veflel a frefli quantity of the lixivium. Haifa 
 pint of lemon juice or more, is then poured 
 into the coloured water, till the liquor becomes 
 of a fine cherry colour. This the workmen 
 call turning the liquor, becaufe it is really turned 
 by the lemon juicej the affinity of the acid 
 with the alkali caufing a precipitation of the 
 red feculs. The liquor being well ftirred, the 
 fluff is put into it, turned, and carefully aired 
 till it has taken the colour. 
 
 This colour may be enlivened by pouring 
 lemon juice into water, and when ready to boil, 
 by dipping the (luffs, it ferves both as a wa(h 
 and brightcner. To procure a colour more on 
 the fcarlet, the fluffs, previous to their being 
 
 dyed 
 
496 THEARTOF 
 
 dyed, may be dipped in a liquor of Terra-merita 
 
 or rocou, without the leaft difficulty. Thefe 
 
 dyes, as I have already obferved, require no 
 
 aluming. 
 
 The lennon juice folution, which Ihould be 
 ufed very hot, fervcs to detach the compofition 
 of wax which had been applied to the fluff, 
 which as it becomes detached, and rifes to the 
 forface of the liquor, ought to be carefully 
 
 fkimmed. 
 
 It is very evident that the Afiatic procefs is 
 oreatly abridged. It is doubtlefs convenient 
 to fimplify all procefles as much as pofTible, but 
 may they not be too much abridged ? We fee that 
 the Baleyens boaft that their dye is more perm.a- 
 nent than that of other nations. We perceive 
 alfo that they fucceed better in this colour and 
 all its Ihades at Lyons than at Paris. May not 
 this difference be partly attributed to the acid 
 of the tamarinds, ufed by the Baleyens in pre- 
 ference to lemon juice j and at Lyons to the 
 fuperior quality of their lemons ? This feems 
 more probable than to fuppofe that it proceeds 
 from any difference in the waters. I have myfelf 
 ufed the juice of the hip or briar fruit, much to 
 my fatisfaftion, as well with regard to the colour 
 as to the expencej this fhrub being very com- 
 mon, and nothing fo eafy as to procure the fruit 
 at a very fmall expence. 
 
 Many of the Indians are accuftomed to add 
 to this Dye an infufion of the caleppe nut, which 
 is now difcontinued as ufelefs. The little folidity 
 of the feculse of the Carthame^ owing to the 
 volatility of the eflential oil, which ferves as a 
 3 bafis 
 
DYING COTTON. 497 
 
 bafis to this renn, it is eafy to imagine that by 
 mixing it with an oil, not volatile, the colour' 
 may be fixed. I would recommend fuch kind 
 of experiments to thofe who are at leifure. 
 
 This article I lliall finifh, by obferving, that 
 cuftom having eftabliOied the waOiing of all 
 linens and cottons in lixiviums, or foap and 
 water, we are thereby deprived of a great 
 number of agreeable colours. The Carthame 
 colour when faded, may be revived by dipping 
 it in lemon juice and water. Many other 
 colours, though yielding to fixed alkali, would 
 neverthelefs refill the power of the air, and 
 therefore linen and cotton threads of this dye 
 when fabricated into fluffs, might be cleaned 
 with a folution of alum and chryftals of tartar, 
 in Head of foap. 
 
 Of a Linen with a Blue Ground and White 
 Pattern, 
 
 N imitation of the filk fluffs above men- 
 tioned, a method has been invented of 
 dying linen or cotton blue, and of referving 
 the pattern or compartments by means of a 
 compofition, which obflruding the pores of the 
 cloth, wherever applied, prevents the dye from 
 penetrating. Thefe were the firfl imitations 
 of painted linens, commonly called chintz. 
 
 For this purpofe, a mold is prepared, by 
 driving with a hammer into a block of hard 
 w^ood, nails of various fizes, differently figured 
 and at diflances proportioned to the dcfign of 
 the impreffion. Thefe nails fhould be either 
 of iron or of copper ; and when fixed in the 
 K k block 
 
^^8 THE -ART OF 
 
 block fhouid be again poliflied with a file, as 
 well to redify the injuries of the hammer, as 
 to make them of an equal height. They Ihould 
 be three inches above the plank, and the plank 
 itfelf fnouj'd be three inches thick, that 
 it may be lefs liable to crack by the heat 
 of the compofition. Some work-men pre- 
 vioufly boil them in oil, which renders them 
 more compa6l, and more capable of refilling the 
 heat without warping. 
 
 The ftamps being thus ready for the impref- 
 fion, a mixture is then prepared, made of four 
 parts good fuet, two parts of arcanjon and one 
 of yellow wax, fimply melted in a fkellet over 
 a flow fire. The (lamp having been foaked 
 in this hot mixture, is immediately applied to 
 the cloth, which is fpread on a table, horizon- 
 tally fixed, and covered either with cloth or 
 flannel. It fhouid be perfedly even, with a 
 ledge or border, about the third of an inch 
 high, filled with fand, equally diftributed on the 
 cloth, by means of a fieve. This fand pre- 
 vents the compofition, which hardens as it 
 cools, from (ticking to the cloth that covers the 
 table. 
 
 It is eafy to conceive that the ftamps fhouid 
 be either a perfeft, or an oblong fquare, and that 
 the linen fhouid be fixed on the table in a ftraight 
 lin«, fo as that the two felvages may be right 
 and left of the Printer. Thefe ftam.ps are fur- 
 niflied at the four corners with correfponding 
 wires, as a guide to the Printer, indicating the 
 precife fpot where the flamp Ibould reft at the 
 fecond application. Thefe wires fhouid be fo 
 
 placed,. 
 5 
 
DYING COTTON. 495 
 
 placed, as to cover the larger nails of the follow- 
 ing impreffion, that the marks they make, being 
 concealed by a greater quantity of the compofi- 
 tion, may leave no blemifli in the work. The 
 Printer having finifhed the firflimpremon, plun- 
 ging the ftamp a fecond time into the hot com- 
 pofition, makes a fecond, and fo proceeds till 
 the whole of the cloth is ftamped. Having come 
 to the right hand felvage, he returns to that on 
 the lefc, and fo on till he comes to the edge of 
 the table, throwing the finiflied part behind, 
 putting freih fand if necelTary, levelling it only 
 with a ruler, that the cloth may lie even. 
 
 The linen thus (lamped is then died in a cold 
 blue vat, the defcription of which I have given 
 above. Having taken the fhade required, it is 
 . aired, wafiied at the river and dried. A copper 
 is then prepared with a fufEcicnt quantity of v/a- 
 ter, into which, when ready to boil, the linen 
 is plunged at fcvcral times, with a pole. The 
 compofuion being detached by the heat of the 
 water, rifes to the furface, which with theflcim- 
 mer in one hand is taken off, whilit with the 
 other the linen is kept under the liquor, to 
 prevent the compoficion from again adhering 
 to any part of the cloth. When the compofuion 
 ceafes to rife, the cloth may be taken out, 
 again waflied at the river, drained and dried. 
 The ground of the cloth being thus died blue, 
 the parts referved by the compofiticn remain 
 white. 
 
 It fometim.es happens however that the re- 
 ferved parts are arc not perfedly white, having 
 a reddifli cad, which muft be owing either to 
 
 K k 2 the 
 
^co THE ART OF 
 
 the bad quality of the wax, or to the too great 
 fierccnefs of the fire. It is therefore neceflary 
 to be careful in chufing the wax, and in pre- 
 ferving a moderate heat. Some workmen for 
 this p'urpofe, and to fparc the indigo, daily in- 
 creafmg in price, only half ground the cloth 
 in the indigo var, finifhing with a logwood 
 liquor, which is a great faving of the indigo ; 
 nr-r is this fraud perceptible, becaufe the cloth 
 when foaktrd, if properly dyed, retains a great 
 part of the logwood. 
 
 By means of thefe ftamps, however, it is impof- 
 fible to make any other than compartments, 
 the lines of which muft be interrupted, by the 
 hollows between the nails. If therefore you 
 mean to print flowers, the fbamps mentioned 
 in the article on dying filk of two colours, arc 
 the mod proper. 
 
 But as, in this operation the wax is liable to 
 break, becaufe hardened by the fharpnefs of 
 the vat, other compofitions are invented, lefs 
 injurious, and more capable of being ufed with 
 the common wooden moulds. The following 
 is the fimpleft and the bed: 
 
 DifTolve in a fmall quantity of water, two 
 ounces of blue vitriol, and as much ver- 
 digris. A pound of white pipe clay, with one 
 ounce of arfenic is then bruifed on a marble, and 
 the whole mixed together over the fire, till it is 
 perfeftly incorporated j adding at laft, half a 
 pound of gum-arabic powdered, and one fpoon- 
 ful of linfeed oil. This compofition Ihould be 
 thinned with a fufficient quantity of water, till 
 of a proper confiftcnce i but if too thin for the 
 
 damp. 
 
D Y I N G C O T T O N. 50: 
 
 (lamp it may be thickened with (larch and blue 
 vitriol. 
 
 For linens or cottons (lamped vvich this com- 
 pofition, the dye I have mentioned is generally 
 ufed; but then it Ihould be prejared in dilferent 
 vefTels j becaufe linens done with the laft refervc, 
 not being fo (lifF, as with the compolition of fuet 
 .and arcanjon^ will be injured by being rumpled, 
 which in the brandy pipes cannot be avoided. 
 
 Square vats are therefore conftrudted, about 
 fix feet deep, and three and a half wide, and 
 about three feet in the ground for the con- 
 venicncy of the dyer. The cloth is then fixed 
 by the felvages, to two wooden frames, each 
 compofed of four barrs, and of fuch a length as 
 to be eafily moved backward and forward in the 
 vat. Thefe frames are held together by means 
 of a fcrew, fo as to be eafily let out or taken in, 
 according to the breadth of the cloth. 
 
 The cloth is lupported by little iron hooks 
 pafTeJ through the felvage at the oppofite fides, 
 to keep it as it were in folds throughout the piece. 
 The cloth thus arranged, is fjfpended with a 
 pulley over the vat, by means of cords fixed 
 to each corner of the frame, and unitina: in 
 the middle, fo that by Slackening the pulley, 
 the linen is dipped without being rumpled. When 
 necefTary to air and ungreen by drawing the puily, 
 the frame rifes, and the cloth drains into the 
 vat. 
 
 Thefe vats are commonly made of wood 
 with iron hoops, to prevent them from warp- 
 ing ; neverthelefs they are fo liable tq come 
 afunder, that it is much the fafeft way to 
 K k 7 conftruft 
 
502 TH,E ART OF 
 
 con(lru6l them of lime and cement. I have 
 feen very folid ones compofcd of four fquares 
 of hard ftone, with a bottom of the fcime, the 
 liquor being fecured from leaking through the 
 joints by a maftic. 
 
 By this manceuvre, though cotton velvets arc 
 dyed blue without being rumpled or rouled, 
 it does not however prevent them from being 
 watered and fpotted, which can never be avoided, 
 becaufe the indigo does not yield to the cold 
 vat, without the afliftance of falts, and thefe 
 falts cannot be prevented from falling to the 
 bottom of the vat. On this account, though a 
 difagreeable colour, it is the cuftom to dye 
 cotton velvet with logwood, or Saxon blue, 
 which having no folidity, foon fades when ex-^ 
 pofed to the air. 
 
 There is however a method of !:'ivino; cotton 
 velvets a blue, furpaffing all the paflel and 
 indigo blues, being when compared to them, 
 like fcarlet, to all other reds. This dye per- 
 feftly refills the air, and is no lefs proof againft 
 the alum and tartar boilings. It is as brilliant 
 and durable in wool as in filk : but as this is- 
 an intire fecret, and the refult of my own ex- 
 periments, I mull be excufed from the com- 
 munication. 
 
 Of Saxon Blue. 
 
 Ifhall not now give the procefs of a dye, fo 
 little ufed either for cotton or linen thread j 
 becaufe the colour when expofed to the air, 
 foon fades, neither will it fland the foap-boiling; 
 
 IK 
 
DYING COTTON. 503 
 
 it is neverthelcfs ufed, in fome places, for cotton 
 velvet. 
 
 The compoficion of this blue is nothing more 
 than a divifion of the fcculjE of the indigo, by 
 vitriolic acid. 
 
 For this purpofe, by pouring four ounces of 
 common oil of vitriol, over half an ounce of 
 well chofen indigo pulverized, you inftantly 
 produce a confiderable rarefadion of the fcculse. 
 The whole is left to digeft in a moderate hear, 
 for twenty-four-hours, till the effervefcence 
 ceafes, an ounce of orpiment powdered is then 
 added to the mixture, which being fbirred with 
 a flick, is left to (land till wanted. 
 
 The cotton velvets, being fufficiently wafhed 
 and cleaned, fome ladles of the compofition, 
 according to the Ihade required, are poured into 
 the fame liquor, which ought to be very hot, 
 though not boiling. The velvet is then laid on 
 a winch acrofs the copper, which is very rapidly 
 turned to the end of the piece, and then the 
 contrary way, that the velvet may be equally 
 dyed i which when it has imbibed the fhadc 
 required is taken out. 
 
 For green, you dye the (luff with curcume^ as 
 I have already defcribed, in which caie it is of 
 no confequencc whether it be died yellow be- 
 fore or after the blue. It is even polTible to dye 
 both in the fame liquor. 
 
 K k 4 Ohfervations 
 
504 THEARTOF 
 
 Ohfervations on this Dye, 
 Gode, in the year 1770, prefented a me- 
 
 M. 
 
 • moir to the Academy of Sciences at 
 Rouen, in which he pretended, that by pour- 
 ing vitriolic acid on this fecula, he produced a 
 combination of the indigo with the vitriolic acid. 
 The appearance of the Saxon blue liquor, in 
 which the feculae arc fufpended, but not dif- 
 folved, is alone fufficient to prove the contrary. 
 Whatever he may ftill fay, it makes no difference, 
 nor does it make any exception to the property 
 of acids, by which blue dies, and vegetable 
 violet are changed to a red, becaufe it is not 
 on fecula fuch as indigo that acids produce this 
 change, but rather on vegetable juices, the 
 colour of which depends on the falts and eflential 
 oil of the plant. See M.GeofFroy's memoir in 
 the Tranfa<5tions of the Royal Academy of 
 Sciences. 
 
 \ 
 
 
 FINIS. 
 
 D. H. HILL LIBRARY 
 North Carolina State Coilege 
 
.i«!^'' 
 
 ^•i! 
 
Dying Silk . 
 
 I i J J ' -t ^6Fut. 
 
Explanation of the Plates which hclong to the 
 dying of Silk. 
 
 PLATE I. 
 
 Figure I. Reprefents two great Coppers, one round, and the 
 other oblong, fet in brick-work on their furnacei. 
 
 A, An oblong Copper, called by the Dyers O'va/. 
 
 B, A round Copper. 
 
 C, The Scuttle of the Chimney. 
 
 D, The Door of the Furnace, below the level of the Dyc- 
 
 l^oufe. 
 
 E, Steps down to the Furnace. 
 
 F, The leaden Pipe by which the water is conveyed to the 
 
 Copper. 
 
 G, Cocks placed above each Copper, by means of which 
 
 they are fiiledwith water. 
 
 Fig. 2. Reprefents the plan of the Coppers, and of the Chim- 
 ney ferving the two Coppers of fi?. I. 
 
 A, Plan of the round Copper. 
 
 B, Plan cf the long, or oval Copper. 
 
 C, Stoppers of the Furnaces. 
 
 D, Space under the Chimney, before the Furnaces. 
 
 E, Steps down to the furnace. 
 
 Fig. 3. Reprefents the Sedion of the round Copper; of its 
 Furnace, and Chimney. 
 
 A, The infide^f the round Copper. 
 
 B, The infide of the Furnace under this Copper, 
 
 C, Door of the furnace. 
 
 D, Infide of the Chimney. 
 
 E, Hearth, of the furnace. 
 
 it Floor of the Dye-houfc. By this difpofition we fee 
 that the furnace of the Copper is funk below the 
 floor, that the edge of the copper, may not be too 
 high for the workman. In the fame manner the 
 floor of the hearth is funk, for the conveniency of 
 managing the fire. 
 
 G, Pipe and Cock, which convey the water into the 
 Copper. 
 
 H, Caaldron, or fmall portable Copper 
 
 K, Sieve or ftrainer 
 
 J, Bottom of the Sieve. 
 
 PLATE 
 
5c6 DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 PLATE 11. 
 
 Figure i. Reprefents the infide of a Silk- Dyer's Dye-houfc, 
 with thediiTerent operations, 
 
 A, The workman taking the facks or pockets, in which 
 
 the filk had been boiled, out of the great Copper. 
 
 B, The workman dreffing the ikeins on the Peg. 
 
 C, The Dyer dipping the Silk in the great Trough. 
 
 D, The workman dipping in the Vat. 
 
 E, The workman who dry-wrings on the Peg. 
 
 F, Two men pocketing the filk for boiling. 
 
 Fic. 2. A, a flcein of Silk. 
 
 B, Rods on which the hanks of filk are pafled in order to 
 
 be dyed. 
 
 C, Perch or Barr for turning the pockets containing the 
 
 filk, whilft boiling, and for taking them out of the 
 copper. 
 D< A kind of Barrow, on which the wet filks are laid. 
 
 E, Rod on which the hank of filk is put, for dipping in 
 
 the vat. 
 
 F, Rocou Pot or cullender ufed for diffolving this ingre- 
 
 dient. 
 
 G, A kind of Peftle ufed for bruifing the Rocou and palling 
 
 it through the cullender. 
 
 H, A large copper-ladle. 
 
 I, A fmall ladle. 
 
 K, Pin ufed for wringing on the Peg. 
 
 L, Peg. 
 
 M, Hatchet for chopping the Dying woods. 
 
 N, A Pin or Peg. 
 
 PLATE in. 
 
 Figure i. Reprefents the wafhing of the filks at the riven 
 
 A, Bark in which the Dyers ftand to wafh the filks. 
 
 B, Steps, from the Dye-houfe down to the river. 
 
 C, Plank for paffing from the fteps to the Bark. 
 D D, Workmen walhing the filk. 
 
 F), Workman who beetles the filk. 
 F, Stone on which the filk is beetled, 
 
 Fi G . 2. A, A cord of filk, or feveral hanks paflTed on a Cord. 
 
 B, Great copper Trough. 
 
 C, Small copper Trough. 
 
 The two troughs B, and C, have fpouts FFFF, in order to 
 let the water run out which way they pleafe, when full. 
 
 D, Great wooden Trough 
 
 E, Stone on which the hanks are beetled. 
 
 PLATE 
 
irtENTG Silk 
 
 Pl.n. 
 

•% 
 
 ■w 
 
i:)xrN^G SILK 
 
 Ti m. 
 
Dvixc; Sii.K. 
 
 PI. IV. 
 
 Fi^3 
 
 

yh 
 
 ^ 
 
DYIKG Sll.K 
 
 J I 3 ^ 
 
 Tcct 
 
THE PLAT E S. 507 
 
 PLATE' I.V. 
 
 FiGVRE I. Indigo Vat, to the level of the Dyc4Ioufe floor ; 
 with its brick-woik, and furnace. 
 D D, C, The lov/er part of the Vat, funk into the ground. 
 F, Bnck-woik uirrounding the Vat. 
 H, Opening of the Vat, 
 
 I, Door in the brick work, on a level with the Dye-Houfe 
 floor, anfwering to the fpace between the brick-work 
 and the fides of the vat, in which the embers are nut 
 for heating it. 
 K, That part of the body of the Vat perceived through the 
 door I. 
 ,, L, Vent, or funnel of the chimney for letting out the fmoak 
 of the embers. 
 
 Flc 2. Seftion of the vat, and of its brick- work, 
 C, Ecttom of the vat funk in the ground. 
 E E, Floor of the Dye-houfe. 
 F, Thicknefs of the brick-work. 
 
 G G, Space between the fides of the vat and tht brick-work. 
 L, That part of the vent, above the brick- work. 
 M, The interior opening of the vent into the fpace round the 
 
 vat. 
 N, Door for the embers. 
 
 Fig. 3. A, Veflel for preferving the. Brafilandiother woods. 
 
 B, Great Trough foraJurning the filk. 
 O, Rake for raking the vat. 
 
 P, Cover of the vat. 
 
 Q^ Damper. 
 
 R,' Poker. 
 
 S, Pocket for the Silk. 
 
 T, Shovel for taking up coals or embers. 
 
 PLATE V. 
 
 Figure i. Reprefents the chamber in which the filk is dried on 
 the Shaker. 
 A, The Shaker. 
 BB, Hooks on which the Shaker is fufpended, 
 
 C, The workman moving the (haker. 
 
 D, 1 he Stove. 
 
 E E, TruiTels for fupporting the poles on which the hanks arc 
 llrung. 
 
 Fig. 2. A, The Shaker. 
 
 BB B B, Hooks and eyes for fupporting the fhaker. 
 C C C, One of the large fides of the fhaker. 
 DD, Hooks on the fide C, on to which the rods are failened. 
 
 E, Side 
 
5o8 DESCRIPTION O F, ice. 
 
 E EE, Side of the (Tiaker oppofite the fide C. 
 
 FFF, Forks on the fide E, of the fliaker, for receiving the 
 
 other end of the rods. 
 G, One of the rods or perches on which the filk is put in 
 
 the Ihaker. 
 H, 2 Perches with the filk on them, and fixed in the fhaker. 
 I, One of the Truffeh on which the perches reft» 
 K, A Fork. 
 L, Hank of Silk. 
 
 M, Trough in which the filk is wafhed. 
 N, A Pail or Bucket. 
 
 0, \'eflel for burning Sulphur. 
 P, Cotd for moving the Ihaker. 
 
 PLATE Vr. 
 
 FiGVRZ I. Reprefents the Work-Shop in which they prepare the 
 Saffranumot Baftard Saffron. 
 AAA, Barks or Trough in which they wafh thcSaffranum^ 
 B, Sack containing the Saffranum, 
 CCC, Pipe and Cocks. 
 
 D, Workman treading the Saffranum. 
 
 E, Hole to let out the yellow liquor. 
 
 F F, A workman bruifing the Saffranum after it is walhed. 
 G G, A workman mixing tht Saffranum with the Soda. 
 H H, Apparatus forextrafting the dye from the Saffranum. 
 after it is alkalized, by pouring wajter over it. 
 
 1, Workman taking water to pour it on the Saffranum, 
 
 Fig. 2. A, a Mortar. 
 
 B, Wooden Crofs for keeping the mouth of the fack open. 
 
 C, Peftle. 
 
 D, Skimmer, 
 
 E, Sieve. 
 
 F, Strainer for diffolving the gum in the black dye. 
 
 G, Shovel for dividing the lumps of ^a/^rawa^/ after wafliing. 
 H H, Apparatus for ftraining off the Saffranum dye. 
 
 PIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER, 
 
 Place the fix Plates at the end of the Book. 
 
Dyikg Silk 
 
 TJ VJ 
 
^^ittidram 
 
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