mtje ^. ^. ^tU pbrarg C.p d if t Date Due Iterir-^^— l4Sep'5gy ?A pr53^ 220cf5c)i SD'.ct ^: ■Jxx-S W^rd '(L'-J \ >.^. i^y_:^U^J^ «&. A-.r- '•---:* "MT 1^5^ Greenhouse Management. A Manual for Florists and Flower Lovers ON THE Forcing of Flowers, Vegetables and Fruits IN GREENHOUSES, AND THE Propagation and Care of House Plants. BY L. R. TAFT professor of fforiicidture and Landscape Gardening, Michigan Agricultural College, and author of "Greenhouse Construction." ILLUSTRATED NEW YORK ORANGE JUDD COMPANY 1904 Copyright. 1898, By orange JUDD COMPANY PREFACE The florist finds that in his profession changes are continually taking place, and if he would succeed he must keep up with the procession. Not only are new and improved methods continually being brought into use, but the plants that he grows change from year to year. A few years ago camellias, tuberoses and bouvar- dias were among tlie plants that were most grown, but now, if grown at all, they have but a small place. Not only does Fashion change the classes of plants that are grown, but from year to year the varieties change, and the methods of culture improve. To inform himself as to the methods that have been found valuable by his competitors, one can, to be sure, look to the horticultural periodicals, which con- tain much valuable information, but the books to which he can go for advice are few and most of them are out of date. To supply a source from which information as to the methods used by the more successful florists can be drawn, this book has been prepared. As originally written it consisted of about ten chapters, which were intended as a sort of appendix to Greenhouse Construc- tion, but the subject of Greenhouse Management was deemed worthy of a separate volume, and accordingly the copy was withdrawn from the printer and consid- erably added to. An attempt has been made in this booK to give to florists an insight into the methods that are to-day being used by their intelligent and successful brethren. In pearly every case they have been tried by the author, or iv GKEEXnOUSE MANAGEMENT. he has seen the results of then- use in numerous in- stances, so that they can be used without liesitation. It is hoped that the information as to the best methods of forcing yegetables will be of especial value, as but little attention has been given that industry, which is one that is rapidly increasing in importance. • Although this subject has perhaps received less space than it really deserves, we have endeavored to present it in a clear and concise form tliat can be followed and understood by anyone. In treating the standard crops of the commercial florist, such as the rose, carnation, violet and chrysan- themum, we have touched upon the time and method of cultivation and the general care recpiired in growing them, but have not deemed it worth while to go into lengtliy descriptions of varieties, as they change from year to year ; the lists given, however, are those that arc to-day deemed most valuable. Florists are more and more, each year, troubled ])y injurious insects and fungi. For many of them wc liave pointed out the treatment, and have added a list of rem- edies which includes those that are considered most reliable. In the chapters devoted to the care of house plants, we have indicated the methods of growing and caring for the plants that are commonly grown in the house. Many of the illustrations arc from drawings and photographs made under the direction of the author, and for the others we are indebted to the kindness of friends. Several were furnished by the publishers of the American Agriculturist, while most of the half tones of the specimen pots, and of specimen blooms, as well as Figs. 47, 91 and 92, were supplied by the pub- lishers of TJte Plorisfs Exchavqe and American Gar- dening. We are also indebted to Gardening and The American Florist, Many of the cuts illustrating the PREFACE. 7 interiors of greenhouses used for various crops, as well as the cultural methods used, were supplied by various specialists. Thus, Mr. Alex. Montgomery of the Waban conservatories, Natick, Mass., furnished cuts of their rose houses; Fred Dorner & Son, Lafayette, Inch, and The Cottage Gardens, Queens, L. I., carnations; Pitcher & Manda, Short Hills, N. J., and E. D. Smith, Adrian, Mich., chrysanthemums; Fred Boulon, Sea Cliff, L. I., Hitchiugs & Co., New York, and Profs. Galloway and Dorsett, Garrett Park, Md. , violets ; J. C. Vaughan, Chicago, 111., J. M. Gasser, Cleveland, Ohio, and Gush- man Gladiolus Co., Euclid, 0., bulbs; W. H. Elliott, Brighton, Mass., asparagus house; and Julius Eoehrs, Carlton Hill, N. J., miscellaneous plants. Acknowl- edgments are also due for the use of cuts and for help- ful suggestions to the following officers of experiment stations: Prof. L. H. Bailey, Ithaca, N. Y., Prof. S. T. Maynard, Amherst, Mass., Prof. W. M. Munson, Orono, Me., Prof. L. F. Kinney, Kingston, E. I., Prof. C. S. Plumb, Lafayette, Ind., and Prof. E. L. "Watts, Knox- ville, Tenn., as well as Prof. B. D. Halsted of New Jer- sey, for the article on Violet Diseases, and Prof. W. J. Green, "Wooster, Ohio, who supplied the article on Sub-irrigation. L. E. TAFT. Ageicxjltueal CJollege, Mich. TABLE OF CONTENTS. Page CHAPTER L The Forcing of Roses, . . . ■ , , . . 1 CHAPTER n. The Carnation, 26 CHAPTER in. The Chrysanthemum, ....••• 64 CHAPTER IV. The Violet, ......... 77 CHAPTER V. Bulbs and their Culture, ...... 88 CHAPTER VI. Tuberous Begonias, ....... 103 CHAPTER VII. Orchid Culture, . 116 CHAPTER VIII. Azaleas, 131 CHAPTER IX. Calceolarias, Cinerarias and Primulas, .... 143 CHAPTER X. Ferns, Smilax and Asparagus, • . . . , 163 CHAPTER XI. Palms, Pandanus and Araucaria, ..... 162 CHAPTER XII. Drac^nas and Cordylines, ...... 168 CHAPTER Xm. Lettuce Forcing, ........ 183 CHAPTER XIV. Cucumbers, Tomatoes and Melons, .... 198 CHAPTER XV. Mushroom culture, . . 211 CHAPTER XVI. Asparagus and Rhubarb, ...... 226 CHAPTER XVIL Radishes, Carrots, Beets and Beans, .... 230 CHAPTER XVIII. Grape Growing Under Glass, 234 CHAPTER XIX. Strawberry Growing under glass 248 CHAPTER XX. Fruit Trees under Glass, 263 CHAPTER XXI. Management of House Plants, 258 TABLE OF CONTENTS. Vll P»ge CHAPTER XXn. The Growing of Bedding plants 274 CHAPTER XXIII. Propagation of Plants by Seeds and Cuttings, . . 287 CHAPTER XXIV. Propagation by Layering, Grafting and Budding, . 300 CHAPTER XXV. Insects of the Greenhouse, ...... 308 chapter xxvi. Diseases of Greenhouse Plants, ..... 324 CHAPTER XXVU. Insecticides and their Preparation, .... 351 CHAPTER XXVIII. Fungicides, their Preparation and Use, ... 356 CHAPTER XXIX. Soil, Manures and watering, 360 CHAPTER XXX. FVEIr-COAL, On. ASD GAB, . ... . • • 37* LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Fig. 1. Pres. Carnot rose, .... 2. House of Bridesmaid roses, 3. AViie trellis for roses, .... 4. Hybrid roses pruned and tied down, . 5. Betl of hybrid roses in bud, . . . 6. Types of carnation cuttings, 7. Carnation bouse, sliori span to south, 8. Carnation supports, '. . . . 9. Carnations supported by eliicken netting, 10. Carnations supported by niesbes of cotton twine, 11. Carnations supported by wire lathing, 12. Daybreak carnation, 13. Mrs. Geo. M. Bradt carnation, 14. Chrysanthemums trained to stakes, . . 15. Chrysanthemums sujjpoi ted by wire and twine, 16. Chrysanthemum crown bud, 17. Chrysanthemum terminal bud, 18. Chrysanthemum, Eugene Dailledouze, 19. Chrysantliemum, iMayHower, . 20. Chrysanthemum, Mrs. I'errin, . . 21. Chrysanthemum, lora, .... 22. Narrow violet house, 23. Hitchings violet house, .... 24. Narrow violet house, improved, . 25. Single violet. Princess de Galles, . . 20. Box of Roman liyaelnths, . . . 27. Double Dutch hy.acinihs, ... 28. Imi)roved hyacinth glass, . . . 29. Single early tulips, .... 30. Freesia refracta alba, . , . 31. LiliumHarrisii, .32. Forcing lily of the valley, . . 3.3. Cyclamen plant, ..... 34. GhadiolusMay, .... 35. House of tuberous begonias, . . . 3G. Single tuberous begonia, . . . 37. Double tuberous begonia, ... 38. Gloxinia, 39. House of gloxinias, .... 40. Fancy caladium, .... viii Page 13 15 20 23 25 28 33 41 43 45 47 60 52 69 CI 64 65 73 74 75 78 79 81 87 89 91 91 92 94 90 97 1(10 102 104 105 106 110 111 U4 LIST OF ILLUSTKATIONS. IX FJg. 41. 42. 43. 44. 45. 4G. 47. 48. 49. 50. 51. 52. 53. 54. 55. 56. 57. Orchids in bloom, . . < Cypripedium Spicerianum, . Cattleya triaiise, ... . . Oi-chid baskets, . , . Aeiides Savageanum, . . , Phalaenopsis grandiflora, . . Potting and cribbing orcliids, Azalea in compact form, . . Azalea with open head, . Hydrangea Otaksa, . . . Cytisus, ..... Bench of lilacs, . . . Kahnia latifolia, . . . Specimen calceolaria, . . Cineraria hybrida, Single Chinese primrose, . Maehet mignonette, . . Adiantum Farleyense, Boston fern, • . . Asparagus Sprengeri, Asparagus house, . Fan palm, .... Dwarf rattan palm. Variegated aspidistra. Group of aiithuriums and alocasiaS; Alocasia metallica, . Aglaonema pictum, . . Even-span lettuce house, . Lean-to lettuce house, . Lettuce pot plant, Pol plant ready for market, . Interior of lean-to lettuce house,. Lettuce packed for local market, Cucumber house, interior, . English forcing cucumbers. Interior of tomato forcing house. Growing mushrooms on greenhouse benches. Crop of mushrooms under a bench, Brick spawn, French nmshroom spawn, . . New musliroom in a cold frame, Black Hamburg grape, . . Grape house in fruit. Eye cutting of grape. Short cutting of grape, . Bench of strawberry plants, . The crop gathered, . . Fruiting strawberry plants, . Pear tree in pot, . . . Plum tree in fruit, . . . A window garden, , . A well arranged window box, . LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Flgr. 93. Eplphyllum tnincatum, 94. A collection of cacti and aloes, 95. A house of pedijiiee violets, • 96. Showing condition of stem for cuttings, 97. Soft cutting of c-oleus, . 98. Geranium cutting, 99. Cutting of Arbor Vitse, . 100. Long cutting of grape, 101. Tongue or whip grafting, 102. Cleft grafting, . 103. Side grafting, 104. Budding,. 105. Wingless female aphis, 106. Winged male aphis, . 107. Fuller's rose beetle, 108. Red spider, 109. Thrips, 110. Mealy bug, 111. Fumigation of a violet house, 112. Rose spot, 113. Spores of black spot, 114. Carnation rust, 115. Spores of carnation rust, 116. Spot disease of carnations, 117. Effect of spot on carnations, 118. Anthracnose of carnations, 119. Fairy ring spot of carnation, 120. Spores of fairy ring spot 121. Carnation leaf mold, 122. Botrytis or rot of carnations, 123. Bacteriosis of carnations, 124. Violet leaf spot, 125. Bermuda lily disease, . 126. Leaf blight of mignonette, 127. The Kinney pump, 128. Crude oil burner, . Page 285 286 292 293 294 296 298 299 302 303 304 311 312 313 314 322 324 325 333 334 343 346 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. CHAPTER I. THE FORCING OF ROSES. While other departments of floriculture have made wonderful progress during the past ten years, in none of them has it been as great as in the winter forcing of roses, and to-day hundreds of large establishments are almost entirely devoted to this work, while every small florist has his rose house, and the sale of cut blooms generally equals the amount received from all other flowers combined. Although it is true that roses, to be successfully grown, require careful attention, it is not true that there is any wonderful secret that one must acquire in order to grow them, and, while the inexperienced rose grower cannot expect the highest success, it is hoped that if the directions here given are carefully followed many mistakes may be prevented. The work of the rose grower generally begins with the propagation and growing of the plants, and therefore we will commence with that operation and follow along with the various steps as the season advances. PROPAGATING THE PLANTS. Eose plants for forcing purposes are generally grown from cuttings of the new wood made any time from November to February, but for most purposes the earlier 1 fHQPERTT UBRART 2 GREENnOUSE MANAGEMENT. date is preferable. The rule generally given for learn- ing if the plants are in proper condition to be used for cuttings, i. e., when in bending a branch the wood snaps, does not hold for roses, as cuttings should not be made until the buds in tlie axils of tlie leaves have be- come firm and hard. Some consider that the lower buds on a stem are in good condition when the flower buds are ready to be cut, while others believe that the best time for making the cuttings is when the buds begin to show color. At any rate, the cuttings should be made before the leaf buds begin to swell. The cut- tings made as soon as the buds have formed and the wood has lost its succulent nature, will root quicker, and a much larger per cent of them will form roots, or '* strike," as it is called. If the variety is a new and choice one, the ))lind shoots, or those that have not formed flower buds, are often used for making cut- tings. While it may be done occasionally without marked injury, if persisted in the tendency will be to develop plants that form few flowering stems, and the results will not be satisfactory, so that the con- tinued use of the blind shoots for cuttings is not to be recommended. "When the stems have long internodes, and particu- larly if it is a new sort, a cutting should be obtained from every good bud, but those at the lower part of the stem, and all at the upper portion that are to any ex- tent soft and succulent, should be rejected. The cut- tings of American Beauty, and other varieties with short joints, should contain two or more buds. Cuttings should be from one and one-half to three inches long, with one bud near the top, at any rate, and with the lower end cut ofE smoothly at right angles, with a sharp knife. If the uj^per leaf is large, about one-half of it should be cut away, and the other leaves, if any, should be rubbed off. THE FORCING OF KOSES. 3 The cuttings should be drojiped into water to pre- vent their drying out, and as soon as possible should be placed in the propagating bed. This should contain about four inches of clean, sharp sand of medium fine- ness, and should have heating pipes beneath, to give bot- tom heat. Set the cuttings in rows, about two inches apart and three-fourths of an inch in the row, and press the sand firmly about them. At once wet them down thorouglily, and if the weaither is clear and bright the beds should be shaded during the middle of the day for the first week. The propagating house should be kept at a temperature, at night, of fifty-eight or sixty degrees, with about ten degrees more of bottom heat. During the day, it should be well ventilated to keep up the bottom heat and thus promote root development, and to admit fresh air, but a temperature ten degrees higher than at night is desirable. In about three or four weeks, with proper care, every cutting should be rooted. The requirements for success, as noted above, are, good cuttings, clean, sharp sand, a proper temperature, shadiiig when necessary, and an occasional wetting down of the bed, in order that the cuttings may not at any time become dry. If the house is inclined to dry out, or if the weather is bright, the cuttings as well as the walks should be sjjrin- kled occasionally, and the ventilation should have care- ful attention. It is best to use fresh sand for each batch of cuttings. POTTIXG AND CARE OF THE PLANTS. When the roots are three-fourths of an inch long, the cuttings should be potted off into two or two and one-half inch pots, pressing the soil firmly. The best soil for the potting of rose cuttings is made of equal parts of leaf mold, or decayed pasture sods, and garden loam, with a little cow manure and bone meal, and sand 4 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. in proportion to tlic heaviness of the soil. After being potted the cuttings should be placed in a house with a night temperature of a little less than sixty degrees. They require the same care as other plants, careful watering, with an occasional syringing to keep down the red spider, proper ventilation, and an avoidance of drafts and direct sunliglit for a few days, being the main things desired. Unless tobacco stems are strewn on the beds, it will be necessary, once or twice a week, to burn tobacco stems in the house, or syringe them with tobacco water. From the time the cuttings are potted off until they have finished flowering and are ready to be thrown out, or rested, they should be kept growing, every precaution being taken to avoid a check, if the best results are de- sired. Some, however, prefer to grow the plants rapidly until they are in four-inch pots, and then give them a short rest. As soon as the roots have filled the pots, and before the plants become pot-bound, shift to three or three and one-half inch pots. By the last of April, if they have had good care, the first batch will have filled four-inch pots and will be strong enough to plant in the beds for early flowering, while the others, as they come on, can be repotted, and will soon be large enough to be transferred to the beds. Only strong, well-grown plants should be used, and if possible all should be planted out by the first of July. By this early planting not only can a largo crop of blooms be secured during the summer, when there is a good demand at a fair price, but the plants will be so strong that they will be able to give large crops during the fall and early winter, when they are most needed. Planting some of the beds by the first of April, for summer use, will often be desirable. SOIL FOR ROSES. While the different varieties will not always thrive ^th th§ Bame kind of soil, it is generally ^cliftitt§4 tha^ THE FORCING OF ROSES. 5 at all events, a soil for roses should contain decomposed pasture sods and cow manure. The sod should be ob- tained during the previous summer from some old pas- ture with a thick, fibrous sod, if possible, and should be piled up with alternate layers of cow manure, using one part of the manure to from four to six of the sods, ac- cording to the character of each. The sods should be cut just thick enough to remove the thick, fibrous por- tion, and if from an average loam soil, neither very heavy nor light, but with a good admixture of clay, the compost prepared as above will be of a suitable charac- ter for the rose benches, but if the sods come from a sandy loam soil the addition of one part of clay to five or six of the mixture will be desirable. On the other hand, if the soil is inclined to be heavy, an equal quan- tity of sand should certainly be added. While consider- able clay is desirable in soil for roses, there is danger of its being too heavy, as, even in shallow benches, if the soil at any time becomes too wet, particularly in the fall before the fires are started, or during a cloudy period in the winter, it will not only be longer in drying out than a lighter soil, but *' black spot" and other diseases will be much more likely to follow. Early in the spring the compost pile should be worked over and the coarser sods broken up. After lying in the pile for two or three weeks more it will be ready to place on the benches. When the houses are long, it will be convenient to have openings in the side walls, through which the soil can be thrown upon the benches, and if there are side ventilators this can be readily done. If it is not feasible to have openings in the sides of the houses, it will be a great convenience if a small car can be run along the edges of the benches. As an entire chapter was devoted to "Eose Houses" in the companion volume, ''Greenhouse Construction," in which the form and wi(ith of housQ best adapted to the 6 GEEENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. crop was discussed at length, it is not thought necessary to devote sj^ace to it hero. By reference to tlie other book, full information regarding tliese points, and upon such important matters as the pitch for the roof, ar- rangement of tlie ventilators, the method of estimating the amount of heating pipe required and the best way of arranging it, will be obtained. SOLID BEDS VEKSUS RAISED BENCHES. For many years solid beds were almost universally used for growing roses and similar plants. They admit of sujiplying a full amount of plant food, but while they lessen the danger of injury from neglect in watering, they frequently do great harm if the jilants are over- watered, particularly if the sun does not show itself for a number of days, as they are a long time in drying out. For this reason they fell into disrepute, and were replaced, in most establishments, by shallow raised benches, as it was found that roses grown upon them, in four or five inches of soil, were less likely to receive a check during the dull days of early winter, when they are most in demand and bring the best prices. Upon solid beds, however, with good drainage, large crops are secured as the bright, sunny days of spring come on, and, what is of much importance, the plants can be grown for two or more years before they are thrown out, while upon shallow benches it is generally advisable to renew the plants each year. A. method has now come into use that provides both for the thorough drainage and the aeration of the soil, as well as warming it up and drying it out. The solid beds are generally about seven feet v^ide, with two beds and three walks in a house twenty feet in width. The drainage is provided, in some cases, by means of com- mon drain tile laid across the beds at intervals of from one to three feet, while in others a foot or more in depth THE FORCTIfG OF ROSES. 7 of stones, or broken brick, is placed in the bottom and covered with eight inches of soil. A few of our most successful growers secure bottom heat by running one or more steam pipes lengthwise of the beds at about the center of the layer of stones ; the heat distributes itself through the bed, and is of marked advantage in wet, dull weather, in drying out the surplus water and warm- ing up the soil. Another favorite arrangement is to have three beds, each five feet wide, and four walks, in a house twenty-two feet wide. These beds have all of the advantages of the old solid bed, with none of the disad- vantages, and are equally well adapted to carnations, violets, lettuce and other crops. The watering of the plants by what is known as sub-irrigation has many ad- vantages, and is treated in another chapter. PLANTING THE HOUSES. Before the beds are filled with soil, ample drainage facilities should be provided, and if raised, wooden benches are used there should be cracks of nearly one inch between the bottom boards, which should prefer- ably not be more than six inclies wide. When tile bot- toms are used the cracks can be somewhat smaller. To prevent the soil from falling through the cracks, or from filling up the openings between the stones in the solid beds, it is well to first put down a layer of sods with the grass «ide down, and upon these four or five inches of the prepared soil for a raised bench, or seven or eight for a solid bed, should be placed. This should be leveled off and firmly packed down. The beds are now ready for planting, and this should not be long delayed, as the thin layer of soil will soon dry out and will be in an undesirable condition for setting out the plants. The rows are generally twelve inches apart lengthwise of the house, so that a bed will hold as many rows as it is feet wide, and the plants are 8 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. set twelve to sixteen inclies apart in the rows, according to the strengtli of the variety and whether designed for one or two years' growing. Assort the plants, and use the smaller ones next the walk* Dig holes for the l)laiits with a trowel, and set the jilants about as deep as they grew in the pots, taking care not to break the "balls," unless the plants have become pot-bound, when it is well to loosen the roots. While it is always desir- able to work the soil carefully into place and to press it firmly al)Out the roots, the soil between the plants should be smoothed off and the surface left light. Upon slop- ing benches, in particular, it is an excellent plan to have depressions about the plants to hold water and cause it to sink down to the roots, for the first few water- ings, until the plants become established. If weeds scart, as they probably will in a week or ten days, the soil should be stirred as soon as they appear, and this should be repeated whenever necessary to keep the beds clean, until tlie roots fill the soil, when it should be dis- continued, as it is likely to check the growth of the plants by breaking the roots. WATERING AND VENTILATING. From planting time, every detail of watering and ventilating should be carefully performed, as any check now would seriously injure the prospect of a paying crop of flowers. As soon as planted, and every bright morning thereafter until established, the plants, and also the walks, should be thoroughly syringed, and the beds should be watered whenever they show signs of drying out, but while they should not suffer from lack of water, even greater pains should be observed that they are not saturated. This will also aid in keeping down the red spider, which only flourishes in a dry atmosphere. No plant requires more care than the rose, about ventila- tion, Prafts of Qold air upon the foliage shoijld always THE FORCING OF EOSES. 9 be avoided, and it is generally a good thing, in a rose house, to have the ventilators arranged with this idea. If there is but a single row, they should be on the side from which the prevailing winds come, if hinged at the bottom, and on the opposite side if hinged at the top. While either extreme of temperature should be guarded against, it is quite as desirable to give the plants fresh air, at least for a short time, each day. In hot weather give all of the air possible, and leave on some even at night, at the ridge. Exposing the plants to great extremes of temperature is especially likely to bring on an attack of the mildew, and if it should ap- pear, as it often does, without apparent cause, the house should be kept somewhat closer than usual for a few days, and after syringing them the plants should be dusted over with sulphur. As the weather becomes cool in September, it is well to furnish a little artificial heut, to keep the temperature of the house above fifty-five degrees. One or two steam pipes, or a low fire in the hot water heater, will secure this and often prevent a serious check of the plants. With this care, firm, short- jointed wood should be secured, which will give an abundance of bloom. While fifty-eight degrees is given as desirable for a rose house, in order to secure' the best results, with the various sorts some little deviation is advisable. The Meteor, among other kinds, needs a few degrees higher than that, while the Perle, Bride and Mermet, and others of the old varieties, should have a temperature a little lower than fifty-eight degrees, if the plants have been properly grown. It will generally be found best to do the watering early in the morning, and, on the warm, bright days when syringing is necessary, it should be done early enough so that the plants will dry off before night. In ventilating, care should be taken to avoid extremes, and it is best to ^ive a little air as §oou 3,3 the sun begins to 10 GEEENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. warm the houses, and the amount should he gradually increased, so tliat during the warmest and brightest part of the day it will be ten or fifteen degrees higher than at night. AVhen the temperature is allowed to run up ten or fifteen degrees before the air is let on, and then the ventilators are opened wide, it will be almost sure to bring on mildew. Plants grown with a judiciously reg- ulated supply of air will be in a much healthier condi- tion than those grown where extremes prevail. LIQUID MANUEES AND FERTILIZERS. After the roses have started into growth, it will be •well to give them an apjilication of liquid manure once in two weeks. It will generally be advisable to pinch off the first flower buds that form, that the plants may throw all of their vigor into the development of stems and leaves. From the first benches planted, cutting can begin in July, and as soon as the crop is off the bed should receive an application of ground bone, at the rate of one pound to twenty-five square feet. This should be slightly worked into the soil, and the bed covered with manure. A half inch of sheep manure will be prefera- ble, but if this cannot be obtained three-fourths of an inch of cow manure will answer. Unless mineral ma- nures are relied upon, the application should be repeated once in two months. During the dull weather from November to January, the mulching should be thin, but by February the amount used may be slightly increased. It is believed by many growers that the diseases like ''black spot," and mildew, and the other troubles, such as blind shoots, and imperfect flowers, may be at- tributed, at least in part, to the stimulating effects of stable manure. AVhile they are not caused directly by its use, there can be no doubt but that the large quan- tity of sheep and cow manure used by many florist^ THE FORCING OF ROSES. 11 promotes a soft, watery growth that is particularly sus- ceptible to disease, and, what is more to be dreaded, that a slight neglect, such as an improper temperature, or the application of too much water, will give the plants a check that will result seriously to them. The use of mineral fertilizers, on the other hand, tends to develop earlier, larger and better flowers, and the plants will be stronger, and with firmer stems and foliage, that will be less likely to be injured by neglect and disease. For these reasons it is a growing practice with many of our most successful rose growers to rely largely upon mineral manures, beginning as early as November upon old plants, although January will be safer for young ones. These fertilizers can be broadcasted either in a dry state or in water. For roses, a good mixture will consist of one part of nitrate of soda, two parts of sul- phate of potash, and ten parts of ground bone. These should be thoroughly mixed and applied broadcast at the rate of one pound to twenty-tive square feet of bench, or at the rate of one pound up to four pounds, accord- ing to the size of the plants, in fifty gallons of water. When roses are growing rapidly the broadcast applica- tion can be repeated once a month, but a less frequent application will be better for small plants, or if there is but little growth. The liquid applications can be made much more frequently, but care should be taken not to use too large a quantity of nitrate of soda, or sulphate of potash, as, if applied in excessive quantities, they will check the growth and even kill the plants. When the ground bone has been scattered upon the surface and mixed with the soil, an excellent liquid fertilizer is made by placing one pound each of the nitrate of soda and of sulphate of potash in two hundred gallons of water, for young plants, which amount may be decreased to one hundred gallons of water when the plants become full grown, applying at intervals of from two to four 12 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. ' weeks. The best time to apply liquid manure is in the morning, when the beds are a little dry, as it will then be more evanly distributed tlirough the soil. When nitrate of soda and sulphate of potash are used as a top- dressing, one pound of each to two hundred square feet of bed will be ample. Unleached wood ashes afford a desirable source for jiotash and pliosphoric acid, and may be used at the rate of a bushel to two or three hundred square feet of bed. The potash will promote the development of firm, short-jointed wood, and, combined with the phosphoric acid, will favor the production of flowers. Many flo- rists still cling to the use of liquid fertilizers made from animal manures, and one of the best mixtures is com- posed of a peck of lien manure and a half bushel of sheep manure in one hundred gallons of water. The food contained in the few inches of soil in which roses are grown is soon exhausted, and it must be replaced in some way, . The top-dressing of sheep or cow manure answers fairly well for this purpose, as well as for a mulch to keep the weeds down after the roots of the roses have filled the soil so that stirring the surface will injure them, but it is unsightly, and keeps the surface wet and sour and prevents the ready access of the air to the roots, so that, although it is of much benefit during the summer months, it is a positive drawback during the winter. All fallen and diseased leaves should be removed and burned, and the surface of the bed should have an occasional stirring, to admit the ?ir and to prevent the baking of the soil, but care should be taken not to dis- turb the roots. In addition to the other work men- tioned, it is desirable to be prepared at all times to fight insects and diseases. A description of the most trouble- some forms, and the treatment for them, will be found in another chapter. THE FORCING OF ROSES. 13 VARIETIES FOR FORCING. The varieties of roses that will be most profitable will depend, to a large extent, upon the character of the market, as well as upon the character of the soil available for growing them in. To be profitable, a vari- ety should have a good constitution ; it should be a vigor- FIG. 1. PRESIDENT CAENOT. ous grower, with strong, upright stems ; the foliage should be of rich color and good substance, and free from any tendency to disease ; the flowers should be large and single on the stems, of a clear color, and in 14 GUEEXIIOUSE MANAGEMENT. the case of the red sorts without any tendency to turn purple. They sliould be double enough not to show the center, and the plants should have a long and steady season of flowering. Among the varieties that are most commonly grown are Bride., Perle (des Jardins), Catlierine Mermet and American Beauty. To these should be added Mad. Car- oline Testout, Kaiserin Augusta Victoria^ Bridesmaid, Mrs. AV. C. Whitney, Pres. Carnot (Fig. 1) and Meteor, of more recent introduction, which are fast coming into favor. American Beauty has no rival in its class, and its flowers are always in demand at good prices. Its flowers are rather small in summer and the petals soon take on a purple color, but when well grown it is a grand rose. Many growers who are successful with most sorts fail with this variety, which will only succeed with the very best of care. It needs a strong, stiff soil, and a temper- ature at as near sixty degrees as can be secured. Bride is the favorite white vai-iety. It also needs a rather heavy soil, and shuuld be started early. The temperature for this sort is fifty-six degrees, or a little below. "With close attention to ventilation, this is a very desirable sort. Mermet was for many years the best pink variety, but the fact that it is of a very light color during the dark days of winter, and, like the Bride, which is a sport from it, quite subject to mildew, has lessened its popuhirity. It requires the same care as Bride, and if given a low temperature at night, careful ventilation during the day, and if sheltered from cold drafts of air, it is still a desirable sort. Bridesmaid (Fig. 2), a recent candidate for a place in the list of commercial varieties, is a little deeper pink than JMermet, and has the marked advantages of holding its color and being comparatively free fiom the attack of mildew. Whurever it has been planted it is THE PORCIJSTG OP KOSES. 15 ^ .-i*..- IG GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. tlie most jDopular pink sort, and it is rapidly supplanting Mermet. It thrives at a medium temperature. Testout is another variety with large flowers of a pure pink color. It is rather particular as to soil and care, and although a fair variety for winter when well grown, it is too single for summer use. Valuable for the amateur. It should have not less than sixty degrees and it likes a yellow loam soil. Meteor is one of the best red, everblooming roses, but to be successfully grown it should have a house where a temperature of at least sixty-three degrees ean be given, while it will luxuriate at sixty-five to sixty- eight. It is naturally quite likely to be attacked by mildew and red spider, unless great care is taken with the ventilation and syringing. Kaiserin is a good summer variety and has a long season of flowering, but is generally considered a failure as a variety for winter flowering, as it is likely to take on a greenish-white color. Mrs. W. C. Whitney is an early and a free flowering variety. It has an excellent foliage, is a vigorous grower and has long stems. Its flowers are large and full and of a pure, deep pink. American Belle is a sport from American Beauty, and where a sufficiently high price can be obtained it is a favorite variety. The flowers are very full and have a deep pink color with a carmine shade. The new rose. Souvenir de Pres. Carnot, is making a very good impression. It is a very strong grower, with long, stiff stems. The flower is of a distinct shade of pink ; it is of a large size and has a sweet odor. It is claimed to flower freely, both indoors and out, and to be particularly valuable on account of its excellent keeping qualities. Of the other recent sorts that are being largely planted are Belle Siebrecht and Mrs. Pierpont Morgan. THE FORCING OF KOSES. 17 Although it is claimed by some that the former is sub- ject to black spot in the summer and fall, with us it has very handsome, clean foliage, and the flowers are large, full, very fragrant, and of a rich, deep pink color. Its petals are rather thick, and it is a good keeper. With some groAvers the stems are inclined to be short and weak. Mrs, P. Morgan is a promising sport from Mad. Cusin. It is a stronger grower, a freer bloomer, and the flowers are larger and darker. They are inclined to be irregular in shape and variable in color. Both of these roses will do well at about fifty-eight degrees. The latter is injured if the house is damp, and if dull weather comes when the house is wet from recent syr- inging, the results to the flowers may be serious unless the air can be dried. For this reason a steam heated house is desirable. For growing at low temperatures, among the best of the old kinds are Wootton for rcd^ Perle as yellow, Bridesmaid as a large pink, and Mad. Cusin for small, with Bride, or Niphetos for white. Perle is perhaps more extensively grown than any other variety, and has no rival as a yellow sort. It requires a moderately light soil, not too rich in unde- composed manure, and an abundance of sunlight, with a temperature of about sixty degrees. If the soil is heavy, the houses should be at least two or three degrees warmer than this. If any or all of these conditions are not given, this variety is very apt to furnish what are known as "bullheads," and on this account many growers have become dissatisfied with it, but can find no other variety to compare with it. Care in securing a soil that is not t(?o rich, and in keeping up a tempera- ture a little higher than is required by most of the other sorts, will generally give satisfactory results. Niphetos is an old white sort, but, excepting Bride, it has no equal, as it tlirives and gives large numbers of 18 GKEENHOUSE MANAGEMEKT. flowers under conditions tliat would be far from suitable to most of the new sorts. It is a rather weak grower, and is well adapted for planting on the side benches. While it does well at quite a range of temperature, the largest and best flowers are obtained at rather less than fifty-eight, although the number will be increased at sixty to sixty- five degrees. La France was formerly a favorite, disputing with Mermet the right to first place as a pink sort, but both have, in most establishments, had to give way to Brides- maid. It is quite subject to black spot, but with care- ful handling can be grown Avith success. Among the older sorts that are still much grown, where the market does not call for high priced flowers, are Bon Silene and Papa Gontier, carmine; Sunset, a strong-growing buff variety, and Duchess of Albany. Where the prices will not warrant the growing of Beauty, Papa Gontier may be used instead. It does best on shallow, raised benches, with fifty-five degrees or less at night, and with plenty of air on mild days. Larger buds are obtained on solid beds, but the number will be much less. After flowering, apply water spar- ingly, as otherwise the plants may drop their leaves. Souvenir de Wootton is also highly regarded by many who do not succeed with American Beauty. Of the other sorts, Madam Cusin and Madam de Watteville and Madam Hoste are still favorites in many establishments. In nearly all cases where raised beds are used, it is customary to throw out the plants after cropping them for one season, but if they have been planted late and have not been forced, some of the smaller sorts may be dried off afld rested, and after a few weeks taken up, placed in small pots and kept in a shaded place until the roots have filled the pots, when they may be re- potted, or at once planted out in fresh soil upon the THE FORCING OF ROSES. 19 beds. As a rule, it will be better to replant with well- grown, young plants. When grown in solid beds, the same result is se- cured without taking them from the bed. The plants are dried off in May, so that they will rest, but not enough so that they will shrivel, and kept in this condi- tion for six weeks or two months. The small wood should then be cut out, and the remaining branches headed back. A little of the surface soil can then be removed, if it can be done without disturbing the roots, and a rich mulch applied to the bed. Water should then be applied, but rather sparingly at first, so as to avoid saturating the soil before the growth has started. If properly handled, a heavy cut should be secured dur- ing the fall, and the results for the season will often- times be as great as could be obtained from new plants, while there will be quite a saving in the expense for the plants and for renewing the soil. Some of the most successful growers make a practice of carrying over about one-half of the plants each year. ' If they are to be replaced, as soon as they are past the period of profitable flowering, or when the beds are needed for replanting, the plants should be removed and burned and the soil taken from the table. The benches should at once be repaired and made ready for new plants. It is well to paint all the woodwork of the benches and walls each year with a hot wash composed of equal parts of lime and cement, to which a small quantity of salt has been added. This can be applied rapidly with a whitewash brush, and will help to pre- serve the lumber and destroy insects, besides improving the appearance of the interior of the house. If the plants have been troubled with fungi and insects, it will be well to burn a small quantity of sulphur, but it should not be done while there are plants in the adjoin- ing houses, as it will prove fatal to them as well as to 20 GREENUOUSE MANAGEMENT. the insects and the germs of the diseases. Xearly as good results can be obtained, liowever, witliout injury to the plants, if the sulphur is slowly evaporated over an oil stove. • STAKING AND TRELLISING. When the jilants have been in the beds for six weeks or two months, the growth will generally be sufficient to re^iuire staking. Most growers still tie with raffia to stakes of wood or bamboo, and by an occasional re-tying keep the shoots in jjlace. The use of wire is, however. FIG. 3. WIRE TRELLIS FOR ROSES. becoming quite common, and rose growers have devised a variety of trellises for the purpose. One of the sim- plest of these consists of a No. 12 wire stretched about three feet above the bed over each row of j^lants (Fig. 2), to support stakes of No. 6 or No. 8 wire, to which the plants can be tied. Sometimes another wire is run lengthwise of the house along each row of plants, near the soil, and a smaller wire, fastened to this at the bot- tom and to the other wire at the top, can be used as a support for each plant. Still a third method is to ruij THE FORCING OF ROSES. 21 about three wires (No. 12 galvanized) lengthwise of eacli row and one above the other at intervals of about one foot, the lower wire being about the same distance from the soil. The wires will need to be stretched and fastened at each end to a gas-pipe framework (Fig. 3), and supported at intervals of twenty-five feet with a lighter framework. Although there is considerable expense at first for the wires, it will be found very satisfactory, and in the end perhaps less expensive than any of the old methods. If desired, it will be a simple matter to so arrange the long wires that, when refilling the beds, they can be drawn up out of the way. FORCING HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSES. When they can be brought into flower by Christmas or New Year's, the large flowers of tins class of roses bring a large price, and they are then quite profitable. The care required is different than for teas and for most hybrid teas, as the plants must make their growth and have a period of rest before flowering. They are gener- ally grown in solid beds, but sometimes boxes or pots are used. When grown in beds they should have thor- ough drainage with tiles, stones, or broken brick, ar- rauged in the same way as described for tea roses, and provided with eight or nine inches of rich compost. Although cuttings are often used, the largest blooms can be obtained when they are either budded, or grafted, upon Manetti stocks. The plants should be set early enough so that they will complete their growth by the middle of July. They should be ripened off by gradually withholding water, and only giving them enough to keep the plants from wilting and shrivelling. By syringing morning and evening, the plants can often be kept from wilting witljot|t wetting tlie soil, During rains the beds should »5J GKEEXHOUSE MANAGEMENT. be kept dry, as, if the soil becomes saturated, rest will be prevented and the crop will be a failure. If in pots or boxes, they should be turned upon their sides during rains. From four to six weeks will generally be rest enough, and when growth has stopped, and the shoots have taken on a lighter color, they should be pruned, removing the weak shoots and cutting the strong ones back to sound wood and plump buds. After a few days, scraj)e off the top soil and replace with a fresh compost of equal parts of rotten sods and cow manure. Water thoroughly, and repeat when the soil becomes dry. Syringe every pleasant morning and give thorough ven- tilation, keeping the house at forty-seven to fifty degrees at night until the buds start. The temperature can then be raised at the rate of one or two degrees a week, with less ventilation after the leaves show. By the time the flower buds appear it should have reached fifty-four degrees, and should then be raised to fifty-five or fifty- six degrees, at which temjierature the house should be kept until the plants are through flowering. Ventilate at sixty-two to sixty-five in the morning, but let the temperature run up to seventy-five degrees at noon. After the buds appear, the beds should be given a watering with liquid manure once or twice a week. If started l)y the first of October, they will flower for Christmas and New Year's. The later sorts can best be grown in pots or boxes, as they can then be left outside until the weather becomes severe, when they should be placed in a cool greenhouse and brought into heat as desired. Beds of hybrids are generally carried for several years, and require about the same care as the first year, except that the shoots are left somewhat longer and are bent over to promote the starting of side branches (Fig. 4). They can be held in place by stretcliing No. 14 galva- nized wire over each row at the bight of from one or two TEE FOKCrXG OF EOSES. 23 24 GKEENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. feet, according to tlie size of the plants, and tying the shoots to it. For the successful growing of hybrid roses in solid beds, the houses should be so arranged that the glass upon at least one side of the roof can be taken off. This should be done by the first of July, to assist them in ripening off, and if rain comes the roof should at once be replaced. As soon as the plants are pruned the glass should be replaced and a regular temi^erature maintained, if the plants are to flower at Christmas. ROSES IN POTS AND BOXES. If only a few plants are us.^d for forcing, they may be grown in nine-inch pots, or in long boxes six inches wide, and about the same depth. This method is par- ticularly desirable for hybrid perpetnals. The small plants should be grown the same as for the beds, and should receive their final shift not later than the first of July. The tea roses will do best if kept growing in the house, although some florists think it well to harden them by placing them out of doors when they are in eight- or nine-inch pots and plunging them to their rims in sand or coal ashes, tlie same as should be done with the hybrids. They will need frequent syringing, but care should be taken not to give enough water to the soil to admit of their becoming water-soaked. By the middle of August, the pots will be filled with roots, and the teas should be removed to a cold frame, or a cool house. The hybrids should be dried off, and will need the same attention as those in solid benches, until the wood becomes hard, when they should be pruned, and after being first placed in a cold frame, should be gradually brought in to heat. With the same care in watering, syringing and ventilating as is given the roses in the beds, they will bloom l)y Christmas. A house of hybrid teas in bud is shown in Fig. 5. moKimr UUUR7 THE FOECING OF EOSES. 25 2G GREENHOUSE MANAGEMEJfT. For early bloom in <^, the best sorts are the well- known Gen. Jacqueminot, Anna de Diesbach, Mrs. John Laing and Magna Charta. For late sorts, in addition to tlie above, Gloire do Margottin, Ulrich Brnnner and Baroness Rothschild can be used, and with good care will ffive satisfaction. CHAPTER II. THE CAR]SrATION. Although the old garden pink and the carnation, or gillyflower, as it was called, have long been grown, there being over three hundred variefies as far back as 1070, the florist's carnation of to-day is comparatively a mod- ern creation. The first real step in its development Avas made by Dalmais, of Lyons, France, some fifty years since, and they were further improved by Alegatiere, who, in 1800, developed varieties with stiff stems. The origination of new varieties has been taken up by quite a number of American florists, and they have met with remarkable success. Tlie method pursued is by careful and systematic cross-fertilization. When skilfully performed, perhaps fifty per cent of the seed- lings will give double flowers, and five per cent may have enough promise to warrant their further trial. The improvement is along the lines of size, shape, fra- grance and color of the flowers, the vigor and frecdoin of bloom in the plant, the length and stifl'ness of stCm, and the perfection of the calyx ; and although much has been achieved, there is promise of great progress in the future. "Within the past ten years the demand for carnation flowers has greatly increased, and this has led to the THE CAKNATIOIS". 27 erection of many large establishments devoted almost entirely to growing them. We also find a considerable number of florists whose priiiciiial business is the grow- ing of hnndreds of tliousands of rooted cuttings and plants, for sale to other florists. The reason for the demand need not long be sought for, as it is very evident that the carnation, as a flower available the year round, has few, if any, equals. It is showy and attractive, its colors are well adapted for use in decoration and for personal adornment, it has a pleasing fragrance, and the flowers are far more lasting than those of the rose and most other plants, and these points in its favor, together with the fact that they are sold at a comparatively low price, have made it the ])eople's flower, and led to the great growth in carnation culture. PEOPAGATION. For ordinary greenhouse cultivation, the plants are generally started from cuttings as early as November or Dece:aber, although with a favorable summer for their growth, strong plants can be o])tained by the last of August from cuttings struck as late as March. If de- sired for summer blooming, they should be struck as early even as October, and if flowers are desired in the early fall, the making of the cuttings should not be de- layed after November. Another reason for making the cuttings so early is that at that time the plants are strong and vigorous, Avhile later on they will be weak- ened by flower production, and by the forcing process to v/hicli they are subjected during the winter. As often propagated, it is not stiange that varieties run out, but with proper cnre much can be done to pre- vent it, if the cuttings are rightly selected. Above all, they should not be made from plants that are in any way diseased or that have been flowering freely for a long period. The best cuttings are made from side 28 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. shoots of flowering stems, and it is a good plan not to pull them until the flowers have opened, as one can then tell what the flowers of the cuttings are likely to be. The portions used for cuttings should be firm rather than soft and watery, but should not be the weak, pui,y stems that weak plants often send out. While the best results can be secured from the suckers that form around the base of the plants, the strong pips along the sides of the stems may be used and will make good plants. These shoots may be pulled from the plants, and by re- moving some of the lower leaves the cuttings may be FIG. 6. TWO TYPES OF CARNATION CUTTINGS. prepared without the use of .a knife. The terminal leaves, if very long, may be cut back (Fig. 6). Cuttings may be rooted either in propagating beds or in boxes of sand. The bottom of the bed should bo covered with a thin layer of cinders, or gravel, and about three inches of clean, sharp sand should then be put on. While it is not desirable to use sand that is very coarse or very fine, the character of the sand makes comparatively little difference, provided it is not of a quicksand nature and is free from organic matter. The sand should be compacted and thoroughly wet down, THE CARNA.TION-. 29 and the cuttings set in rows about two inches apart and three-quarters of an inch between the plants in the rows. After a row is in place, the soil should be firmly pressed about them, and a narrow groove made for another row. The cutting bed should be in a temperature of fifty to fifty-five degrees at night, while five to ten degrees of bottom heat are desirable but not necessary ; during the day the house should be thoroughly ventilated and the temperature kept as near sixty degrees as possible. Unless the cutting bed is in a north-side house, into which no direct rays can enter, the cuttings will require shading from nine until three o'clock on sunny days, and should be kept rather close for at least the first week. The cuttings should not be allowed to get dry, as, if the lower ends of the cuttings become parched, they may as well be thrown out. The beds should be sprinkled on bright mornings, and under favorable condi- tions roots will form in three or four weeks. POTTING OFF. As soon as the roots have developed, the plants should be placed in flats of good soil, or in beds, at intervals of two inches each way. Some growers find that it pays them to pot off the cuttings, using two-inch rose pots, while others greatly reduce the labor by keep- ing them in the cutting box until they are planted in tlie field. Very good results can be obtained by this method with late-struck cuttings, provided an inch of rich soil is placed in the bottom of the box, and covered with two inches of sand. After the roots have been formed in the sand, they will find their way into the soil below, and thus obtain nourishment until they are planted out. After being boxed or potted off, the young plants should be kept at a temperature of fifty degrees until they have become well established. If, during this time, any of the plants start to throw up a flower 30 GREENHOUSE JUaKAGEMENT. stalk, the center bud should be pulled out, or the plant pinched back, and all future attemjits at flowering should be checked by pulliug out the terminal leaves from any plaut that shows the least tendency towards it. As soon as the plants begin to thicken up, it is well to remove them to a cool house, or cold pit, where the temjDerature will be thirty-five to forty degrees. In the case of the December-struck cuttings, this will give them an opportunity to rest, and the plant will be less subject to disease than if kept growing continuously throughout the winter. At any rate, it is desirable that the young plants be established in the boxes by the first of March, that they may be removed to the cold frame early in April and become sufficiently hardened to be planted out between the 20tli of April and the first of May. The planting time should be as early as the ground can be worked, and danger of severe frost is over. If taken at once from a greenhouse, they would be injured by the least frost, but if gradually hardened in a cold frame, a slight frost will not injure them. SOIL FOR CARNATION'S. Although in selecting a soil for planting out caraa- tions, very light sand, heavy clay, or muck, should be avoided, almost any average loam soil adapted to the growing of vegetables will be suitable for the purpose. Given a congenial climate, and a medium heavy loam soil, with a proj)er supply of plant food, and an abun- dance of moisture, but with good drainage, there will be little trouble in growing carnations. The land should be well enriched with decomposed manure, and deeply plowed the previous fall, and in the spring plowed and dragged smooth. If manure cannot be readily obtained, one thousand pounds per acre of ground bone, or dis- solved bone black, will help out. The rows may be as narrow as one foot, or as wide as two and a half, or two THE CARJSTATION. 3] feet and ten iuclies. If the smaller distance is nsed, every ninth row should not be planted, and the soil worked with a hand cultivator, while the larger spaces between the rows will admit of cultivation with a horse, which will greatly lessen the amount of hand labor re- quired, and where land is not high priced, this practice should be employed whenever possible. PLANTING OUT AND CULTIVATION. Having marked out the rows at the distance fixed upon, the ground should be cross-marked at intervals of from ten to twelve inches, for the plants. In planting the carnations, they should be set deep enough so that they are held firmly in place. If this is neglected, the plants may be blown about and i^erhaps ruined, but care should be taken that they are not too deep, as, particularly if on wet, heavy soil, and in a wet season, they will be apt to rot at the collar. ■ Among the other causes that may produce stem rot is injury in the cutting bed, and if at planting out time any of the cuttings appear injured, as often hap- pens from too much water with too high a temperature and too little air, they should not be planted. During the summer the plants should be frequently cultivated, thus both keeping the weeds down and, by breaking the crust, forming a mulch conserving the moisture. It is a good plan to stir the soil as soon as it is dry after every rain, and even if no rain has fallen and no weeds are in sight, a shallow cultivation once in four or five days during the summer will be of benefit to the plants. If the soil is poor, an occasional applica- tion of liquid manure, or bone meal is often desirable. The only additional care that they require is the pinching out of all flower stalks that start, as soon as four or five offshoots form at the base of the stem ; this should be discontinued by the middle of July on plants designed for early blooming, but on others may be kept up until the middle of August. 32 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. On light soils and in diy seasons irrigation will be of great value, but the mere wetting of the surface soil will often do more harm than good. If irrigation is used at all, it should be sufficient to wet the soil to a depth of four or five inches, and the land should receive a shallow cultivation before the surface has had time to bake. CAKNATION HOUSES. Although the character of the house in which car- nations are grown has less to do with the success ob- tained than with the rose and some of the other croj^s, it will always be well to have the houses planned in such a way as to secure for the plants the most favorable conditions. While almost any shape of house will an- swer, it will be found of advantage to consider the con- ditions under wiiicli the plants are to be grown before making a selection. The principal demand and the highest price for the flowers is during the dark, dull weather of winter, and to secure blooms at that time it is desirable that the house be constructed with a light framework and large glass, and with such a pitch of the roof as will secure the most light and heat from the sun. This will generally be secured in a three-quarter span house running east and west, and good results can be obtained either with a long slope, or with the short slope of the roof to the south (Fig. 7). Where a suit- able location can be secured, a form of house that was first designed for growing vegetables, with a lean-to roof and a width of from thirty-five to fifty feet, will be found well adapted to the carnation. If a slope to the south of about fifteen degrees can be secured, the roof can be given a slone of about twenty degrees, and the north wall will not ne unduly hiirh at the least width mentioned, but for greater widths the house can be built of a two-thirds span, or less, with from one-fourth to one-eighth of its roof sloping to the north. If the THE CAliKATION. 33 34 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. three-quarter span, with about one-third of the roof upon one side of the ridge, and the remainder on the other, is used, it will seldom be desirable to have the house much less than twenty feet wide. When the flowers are desired during the fall and early winter, it becomes necessary to plant the house early in the summer; and to grow them successfully during the hot weather it is desirable that provision be made for the removal of part or all of the glass. Some houses for this purpose have the roof formed of hotbed sash, that can be quickly taken off and replaced, while others have permanent sash bars, with butted glass held in place with wooden caps, that permit a part of the glass to be removed during the summer. Other growers find it well to provide for a supply of blooms during the spring and early summer, and unless the jilants are flowered in the beds from which chrysanthemums have been removed, as mentioned in another chapter, special houses will be needed. It will generally be well to get them well established in the fall, and to carry then- through the winter in a state of rest, at a low tempera- ture. For this purpose, a north and south even-span house is desirable, and if one has an old style house with small glass and heavy framework, it can be put to no better use. If one is to build a house for carnations, it will be best to construct it after some of the forms first de- scribed, as, if at any time it is no longer desired for car- nations, it will be well adapted to a number of other crops. As the crop requires thorough ventilation, it will be w'ell to have a continuous row of ventihitojs in the south wall, and at least one row at the ridge. GROWING THE PLANTS IN THE HOUSES. Some of the growers have adopted, Avith good suc- cess, the plan of growing the plants during the summer THE CAK^TATION. 35 in the houses in jDermaiient beds, thus saving the trouble of transplanting, and they chiim that, as seems quite probable, the plants being saved from any check, they are less likely to be attacked by the various diseases to which this ^jJant is subject. As the plants are more closely under the eyes of the florist, they are less likely to be neglected and a better growth can be secured, pro- vided the air can be kept suflBciently cool during the hot weather of summer. For growing plants in this way, it is desirable that the houses should be large and airy, and unless the sash can be removed from at least one side of the roof during the summer, abundant side ventilation should be pro- vided. The short-span-to-the-south houses seem well adapted for this purpose, Avhile the even span is prefer- able to the ordinary three-quarter span form. It is almost necessary that tlie benches be deep and solid. For a house twenty feet wide, no better arrangement can be made than that shown in Fig. 7, with two benches, each about seven feet wide, with walks at the center and at each side of the house. Sub-irrigation is especially desirable for the house-grown plants, and this can be readily arranged, according to the methods ex- plained elsewhere in these images. It is even more desirable that proper soil should be provided than when they are first grown in the field. It should be not less than eight inches thick, and should consist of from one-half to two-thirds rotten sods, the balance being decomposed manure and sand, in propor- tion according to the character of the sods. The plants may, if desired, be given one shift before they are planted out, but it is desirable that they be placed in the beds by the first of June. Wlien there is a demand for flowers in the fall it is a good plan to plant in the open ground some of the early varieties, so that they can be covered with a frame when cold weather comes 36 GKEEKHOUSE MANAGEMENT. in the fall. They will bloom freely for several months and the slight expense will be well repaid. BEDS AND BENCHES. The plants can be grown either in raised benches or in solid beds, which in either case will be about the same as described for the rose. If the latter are used, care should be taken to secure thorougli drainage, but even then, unless great care is taken in watering, the crop will not be as early as on raised benches, although the flowers will be larger and have better stems, and the plants will give more blooms during the spring and summer. The bed can have its sides formed of plank, but it will be neater and cheaper in the end if cement or brick is used. Being near the level of the walks, it will be easier to get the soil upon them than on the benches, as the Avheelbarrow can be run upon ther.i. The bed also has the advantage of permitting the hold- ing of the flowers for several days ; the shallow bench, on the other hand, renders possible the forcing of the flowers for a certain occasion. Unless there is some reason for wisliing early flow- ers, the solid bed will be generally preferable, although it is a good plan to have a solid bed in the center of the house, with raised side benches. Fur the solid beds, about eight inches of soil will be required, while four or five inches will answer for the raised benches. The soil may vary, according to circumstances, but a good mix- ture is prepared from six parts of good garden loam and one part of decomposed manure. To this, if the soil is inclined to be heavy, may be added one part of shar]i sand. For the shallow benches a larger proportion of manure is desirable. Another method of prc])aring ihe. soil for the benches is to top-dress a piece of land early in the summer and turn It under, sowing upon it, in July, crimson clover at the rate of ten quarts to the acre. THE CARNATIO:^-. 37 In severe climates rye may be used instead. They should be turned under early in the spring, before they have formed their heads, and will supply the needed fiber to the soil. The land should be worked during the summer, and will be ready for filling the beds. A similar preparation of the soil, where the plants are to be set in the field, is a good practice. Our experiments with greenhouse sub-irrigation show that it has many advantages, which are explained under that heading. If early flowers are desired, they should be benched from the middle of July to the mid- dle of August, but to be successful the house should have ample ventilation. The first of September is as late as the benching of any of the plants intended for early winter use should be delayed, but good results may be secured from late flowering kinds if they are boxed off before severe frosts come, and are kept in deep cold frames until tlie chrysanthemums are out of the way, when they may be set in the beds, or if the boxes are deep the plants can be left in them. This is an excellent way of handling Hinze's White. It is desirable to have the planting ground near the houses, so that the plants maybe placed in hand-barrows and carried to the houses, but ii the soil near by is not suitable it is better to go to some distance, as the plants can then be readily handled if placed in boxes, loaded on a wagon and drawn to the houses. If the soil will fall from the roots without breaking tliem, no attempt should be made to retain it, but if it clings to theni it will be better to take up a ball of earth and place it in the bed, provided it is not unsuitable for use in the house. If the plants are growing in soil that has become baked, unless the land can be irrigated it will be necessary to delay planting until a rain comes to soften it. PLANTING THE HOUSES. Having filled the beds with soil, when the proper time comes for plantirr '*; :'£: well, if one has but a few 38 GRESNHOUSE MANAGEMENT. plants, to select a dull clay for the planting, or, if it does not come, the plants may be dug in the early morn- ing and placed away in the flats in some cool place nntil towards evening. With large numbers of plants this will not be possible. The distance required by the plants in the houses will depend upon the variety, the size tliey have attained in the field, and on whether a large number of com- paratively small flowers is preferred to a smaller num- ber of large ones. For the former, plant so that they will touch, or eight or nine inches each way, while for large flowers have them at least a foot apart. Many growers prefer to have the long rows eight to ten inches aj)art, and those across the beds from ten to twelve or more, thus giving a better chance to w^ork the soil. Dig a good-sized hole with the hand or trowel, and set the jDlants about as deep as in the field, carefully spreading out the roots and pressing the soil firmly about them. As soon as planted they should be thor- oughly watered, and in bright weather shaded for sev- eral days, but as soon as the ^jlants have become estab- lished some or all of the shading should be i-emoved, using a stream of water and a scrub brush if whitewash has been used. As a temporary shading, nothing is better than to spray over the roof a thin mixture of water and clay, which can be readily removed. During hot weather it is well to leave every other row of the shading upon the roof. The houses will need thorough ventilation, although, upon the newly set plants, drafts of hot, dry air should be prevented. Even in severe winter weather, unless the houses are very open, a little air should be given for a short time each day. It is possible that one reason why such fine flowers are often grown in old, tumble- down houses, is that the cracks admit fresh air and let THE CARNATIOlir. 39 out the heat when the houses are neglected and are not opened. WATERING AND VENTILATING. Most carnations thrive best in a temperature at night of about fifty degrees, and although they will give quicker results at sixty degrees, the blooms will be small and the plants will be quickly exhausted, so that in the course of the season the number of the flowers will not be half as great as in the cooler house. On the other hand, when kept at forty or forty-five degrees the plants will flower later, but as few will be produced during the winter, they will be able to give quite a crop as the warm weather of spring comes on, at which time, how- ever, there is less call for them and the prices rule much lower than during the winter. During the day the tem- perature will be determined largely by that of the air outside and the amount of sunshine, but in a clear day it can run up to sixty-five or seventy-five degrees with advantage, provided the air is on the houses. It will probably be well to hold down to those temperatures, if it can be done by ventilating the houses and not secure too much of a draft of cold air. Air should be given at fifty-five or sixty degrees, and this is high enough for the day temi^erature in dull weather. Until the plants have become established, they will take but little water from the soil, and, after the firut wetting down of the bed, care should be taken not to add more until examination shows that it has become slightly dry, when another watering should be given, sufiicient to wet down through the soil. This will be a good rule to follow throughout the year. After the plants are established, during the hot weather of Sep- tember and October, and during the spring, careful watching is often necessary to prevent the suffering of tJie plants from lack of water, as, particularly wheo 40 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. the heating pipes are under the benches, the roots may be in soil as dry as ashes, although the top soil may be quite wet. On the other hand, serious injury may occur when too much water is used, pai'ticularly on solid beds during the dark days of winter, but if the above rule is observed, the danger of injury will be greatly reduced. The use of too much water, especially if accompanied by a high temperature, without ventilation, is likely to cause the development of galls upon the roots, and if numerous, the entire crop may be ruined, and it will often result in the rotting of the stems and lower leaves, even though the galls do not appear. On the other hand, water should be used freely in syringing tlie plants, wetting the soil as little as possible, for the fii'st few days after planting, repeating whenever the foliage becomes dry, and upon warm, bright days throughout the season, but it should only be done early in the day, in order that the foliage may dry off, as, if it remains moist over night, it will invite the presence of the rust and other fungi. During dull weather the plants should not be syringed, and care should be taken, when it becomes necessary to apply water to the soil, that it does not wet the foliage. If there is clanger of the air becoming so dry as to invite the appearance of the red spider, water can be used freely on the walks and about the house, and in this way the needed mois- ture will be provided. STAKING AND TEELLISING. As soon as the plants have become established, ar- rangements should be made for supporting them. For- merly wooden or cane stakes were used for the purpose, but they were not firm enough in the soil of shallow beds, and the ends quickly rotted off. In tying the stems to the stakes, they are generally so drawn together that growth is hindered, and when it comes to cutting THE CARNATION". 41 the flowers it often becomes necessary to cut tlie ties, in order to get the stems out unbroken. The same objec- tions, except the decay of the stakes, apply to the use of THE EOBAN StJPPOBT. FIG 8. CARNATION SUPPORTS. rods of galvanized wire, but with the rods firmness can be secured by fastening them at the upper end to wires stretched above the bed, while the plants can be tied 42 GREENnOUSE MANAGEMENT. more loosely if two stakes are used to eacli plant, or, better yet, by bending No. 9 galvanized wire into the shape of a hairpin, a sujiport will be formed that answers fairly well. There are also a number of individual sup- ports that have been brought out, and in several in- stances patented, during the last two years. Their appearance is slioAvn in Fig. 8. Several of tliem are of simple construction and are sold quite cheaply, so that in time they will be no more expensive than the perish- able wooden stakes. In most cases they are designed to keep the lower leaves off the soil, and also to support the flower stalks. Nearly all of them are preferable to the single stakes, but most of them confine the stems rather more closely than is desirable. The Lonsdale stake, with a single ring, is only adapted to small-growing, slender varieties, but this stake with two rings, or some of the other kinds with two or more, answers fairly well except for the strong- growing sorts, where some method that Avill support them without confining them so closely will be better. The Horan support shown in Fig. 8 has the disadvan- tage of being expensive and of being easily disarranged, but it serves its jjurpose well. A home-made form, de- signed by a Detroit florist, has heavy galvanized wire for the bows at the ends, and to these smaller cross wires are fastened. Between them common twine is woven to support the leaves and stems, so that in a gen- eral way it is mach like the Horan support. Among the first to experiment with carnation sup- potts was Fred Dornor, of Lafayette, Ind., who finally designed a support that has been extensively used by florists all over the country, and with slight modifica- tions has been found adapted to houses of strong-grow- ing varieties. He used, to support the lower leaves, galvanized wire chicken netting with a fine mesh (Fisr. 9), cut into strips eighteen or twenty inches in vidtlj. THE CARNATION. 43 44 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. These are bent into an inverted Y shape, well rounded over the top, and pre placed between the rows of plants crosswise of the bod. To support the floAver stems, he stretches No. 12 galvanized wire lengthwise of the beds about a foot apart, and npon these weaves a diamond- shaped mesh with cotton twine, as is shown in the illus- tration (Fig. 10). Two men on opposite sides of the bed can pass the twine back and forth quite rapidly, at the same time giving it a twist about each of the wires. The principal objection to the wire netting is that the meshes are so large that the stems often become tangled in them and are much crowded, and that it is somewhat lacking in stiffness to stand up well. To cor- rect these failings, several have tried galvanized wire lathing, which has a half-inch square mesh (Fig. 11), and find that it answers much better in both respects. Another modification is in the weaving to support the stems, where, instead of the diamond-shaped mesh with wires a foot or so apart, there is a No. 18 wire stretched lengthwise of the beds each side of every row of plants, and to hold the stems in place the other way, across the beds other wires or twine are placed, so as to form meshes from four to six inches square, through which the stems will grow. If this is placed six or eight inches above the top of the A-shaped lathing, it will hold the stems so loosely that it will be little hindrance in gathering flow- ers or cuttings. One of the advantages of the A-shaped lathing is that it keeps the leaves from resting on the damp soil, and as the hose, when watering, can be held beneath it, there is little need of wetting the leaves, and thus the danger for disease is greatly reduced. By lift- ing the leaves from the bed it also permits the air to cir- culate and aids in the drying out of the soil. Whether the individual rings or the wire lathing are used, the best rci-nlts can only be secured when they are in place before the Cower buds form, as then it will THE CAENATION. 45 46 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. be but little trouble to induce them to enter the rings or meshes as desired, while if they have fallen over and sprawled out over the bed before the supports are in place, it will be more difficult to secure stout stems and the desired straight upwaid growth. If they are early in place, little time will be required in training the stems, and the houses will present a very neat appear- ance. Before one decides what method of training to adopt, it will be well to visit houses in which the differ- ent forms are in use, or to experiment upon a small scale before investing largely in any of them. The best support is the one that offers least obstruction to han- dling the plants, cutting the flowers and working the soil. Their cheapness, durability and simi)licity should, also be considered. As stated above, the slender, up- right-growing varieties will be best supported by some of the methods first described, while the strong, rank- growing varieties will do better with the lathing and overhead mesh. If desired, the A-shaped netting can be used with the individual wire supports. DISBUDDING. While it will not pay for all localities and with all varieties, disbudding is almost essential for large mar- kets where there is strong competition and a demand at a good price for large, single flowers, on long and strong stems. Disbudding consists in the removal of all the flower buds upon a stem except the strongest one at the tip, or, as carnations are now used, a spray of three or four slightly smaller flowers is also desirable, and we can aid in its formation by pinching out the terminal bud and thus favoring the development of the side buds. If disbudding is to be practiced, the plants shonld be looked over once in t\vo weeks at most, and at the same time all needed tying and training of the shoots should be done. As a rule, growers who market their crops THE CARNATION. 47 48 GKEENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. near home can grow tlieir plants under high culture and secure large flowers and long, stout stems, but if to be shipped long distances they will need to be grown with a firmer texture, that they may withstand hard usage. TOP-DRESSING AND LIQUID MANURING. The requirements of the crop will depend upon the character of the soil used for the beds. If composed of loam, stable manure and ground bone, the plants will be able to obtain food for several months, but by the first of November it will generally be well to apply ground bone to the surface of the bed, and from that time on to give the plants an application of liquid manure once in two weeks. The application of a peck of wood ashes to each hundred square feet of bed once in six or eight weeks will be especially desirable in giving strength to the stems. For the further discussion of the use of manures and fertilizers -for carnations and other crops, the reader is referred to the chapter on that subject. GENERAL CARE OF THE HOUSES. As soon as the plants have become established, the surface of the beds should be stirred, to keep down the weeds and to loosen it, that the growth of the roots may be stimulated and the food supply increased. This sliould be kept up during the season, but it should not be deep enough to injure the roots. All dead and dis- eased leaves should be picked off, and all litter removed from the beds. The carnation is less troubled by insects than most flowers. The green fly is about the only one that will require especial treatment, and for this the usual rem- edies can be used. The danger of the appearance of insects and fungous diseases will be greatly reduced, pro- vided the conditions under which the plants are grown are suited to them; and if tliey are so handled tiiat they THE CARNATION". 49 receive no dieck, the need of making use of insecticides and fungicides will be greatly lessened. The soil upon the shallow beds should be replaced each year, but upon deep, solid beds only the surface need be removed, as, unless it has become wet and sour, it will only require the addition of manure and a little fresh soil to grow another crop. If soil is hard to obtain for the beds, the old soil may be used again, if it is spread out thin and seeded with rye in August. By turning this under, and adding a good dressing of manure in the spring, it will be sweetened and supplied with the needed fiber and plant food. Among the trials of the carnation grower are the troubles known as the "bursting of the calyx," and the "sleep of the carnation." The former is most common when the plants have been stimulated by high feeding, or grown at a high temperature and in a moist air. It is particularly likely to occur if the plants have pre- viously been kejDt quite cool. What is commonly known as "sleep" in carnations may also be due to a variety of causes. Among them are sudden and extreme changes of temperature, too close, too hot, or too dry an atmos- phere, too much smoke, gas, lack of water, some injury to the roots, too much fertilizer, and anything else that can disturb the nutrition of the plant. VARIETIES. With the large number of seedlings that are brought out each year it is not probable that any list can be given that will be of permanent value, although in the points that go to make up a good carnation the following vari- eties stand quite high, and will probably be found valu- able for several years. The commercial grower will do best to confine himself, for the most part, to a few stand- ard sorts that he has tested, and which do well with his soil and care, but in order that he may keep up with the 4 50 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. times and be ready to compete successfully, he sliould, each year, test a few of the more promising new vari- eties, to learn if they will be better for him than his old kinds. Of the older sorts, those most grown are the Lizzie McGowan and Silver Spray, white ; Daybreak and Wm. FIG 12. DAYBREAK CARNATIONS. Scott, pink ; Portia and Stuart, red; and Goldfinch and Bouton d'Or, yellow. Formerly, the white sorts were THE CARIfATION". 51 grown in larger numbers than all other colors put together, but the increased use of the carnation, for pur- poses of decoration, has caused a very large demand for the varieties of the various shades of pink, and, as a result, the varieties of that color are now grown very extensively. Lizzie McGowan is the standard sort of its color; it likes a light house, but does well on either beds or benches. The temperature should not be much below fifty degrees at night. As the plant is a slow grower, it should be planted early. It is a rather slen- der, upright grower, with large, regular, pure white flowers. Silver Spray is a desirable, early flowering, white sort, coming in before the chrysanthemums. It sometimes produces defective flowers, but, as a rule, they are quite perfect, upon long, stout stems. The plants bear freely, and the flowers keep well. Among the new sorts, the Ivory is particularly promising. The plant seems to be vigorous, productive and quite free from disease ; the flowers are a clear, ivory white, regular, and of a delicate fragrance; the petals are large, well-fringed, and supported by a strong calyx and a stout, long stem. Among the other new sorts are Storm King and Alaska. Of the pink varieties, none have been more success- ful than Daybreak (Fig. 12). It is quite healthy, flow- ers freely, and the plants are strong and vigorous. It does best on a rather heavy soil and in solid beds, as it is less likely to burst its calyx and form side buds than when in shallow beds. The flowers are large, well- formed, of good color, and genei-ally sell at the highest price. Wm. Scott is a good companion for .the last variety. It has strong and healthy plants, and the flow- ers are large, regular, and even in color, and are borne on long, stout stems. The flowers are produced freely tod have good keeping qualities. Of the other sorts, Ma(3. Piaz Albertini is one of the best, Th.e flowery 53 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. are larger tlian Daybreak, very double, and with less tendency to fade. The growth is strong, close, and healthy, the stems are strong, the calyx seldom bursts and the flowers are very sweet scented, but in the hands of many growers it has the serious drawback of being a shy bearer. Of the other pink sorts, Grace Darling and FIG. 13. MRS. GEO. M. BRADT CARNATION. INTRODUCED BT FRED CORNER & SON. Annie Pixley may be spoken of as having desirable features. Of the red or scarlet varieties, few stand better with most growers than Portia, which has a very strong and vigorous plant, and the flowers are of a good color and substance, on stout stems. While Stuart is perhaps not as productive as Portia, the plants are very vigorous and healthy, and the increased size of the flowers adds con- THE CARNATION". 53 siderably to its market value. Emily Pierson is a prom- ising late scarlefc sort, and as the flowers, when well grown, are very large, they bring a high price. Of the yellow sorts. Goldfinch has a splendid plant, and has generally superseded Bouton d'Or and the older kinds. Mayor Pingree is a promising new variety, Helen Keller is one of the best of the variegatei varieties, but it frequently is nearly a failure, and at best is not much in demand. Among the variegated kinds recently introduced, Mrs. Geo. M. Bradt (Fig. 13) is particularly worthy of trial. In addition to a long list of comparatively untested varieties, there are several sorts that are being largely planted, and which thus fur seem very promising. Among them are Eose Queen, Bridesmaid, Meteor and Lizzie Gilbert. Uncle John, although very successfully grown by its originator and many others, has not been generally successful, and its culture is even now given up by many growers. Morello is a new dark red or maroon variety, with large, firm flowers on long, stout stems. It has a rich odor, and the plants seem healthy and prolific. Of the older varieties. Tidal Wave, Gar- field, Mrs. Fisher and Hinze's White are still grown extensively. CHAPTER III. THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. For hundreds, if not thousands, of years, this plant has been held in high esteem by the inhabitants of China and Japan. In the latter country, a festival is held in honor of this, the national flower, and the nobles, as well as the peasants, enter into the festivities. The highest of all Japanese decorations is the Imperial Order of the Chrysanthemum, which is only conferred upon persons of royal birth, or, in rare instances, upon the nobility, and is regarded as a high distinction, even by foreigners. The chrysanthemum was introduced into Europe about two hundred years ago, but was not generally esteemed until the first part of the present century. The first European seedlings were grown in 1827, and the interest excited at that time has been kept up, by the curiosity and admiration over the develoiiments that have from time to time been made. The present cen- tury probably covers the history of the chrysanthemum in America, and it is said that the first American seed- lings of any vahie were raised as recently as 1879, by Dr. Walcott, of Cambridge, Mass. Since that time the interest has rapidly increased, until it is now the favorite flower of its season. The attention given to developing new varieties from seed has given us hundreds of kinds, many of which excel in size, color, and form the best that have been imported. Among those who have done most to popularize the chrysanthemum by importation of the best Oriental and European seedlings, or by grow^- 64 THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 55 ing seedlings themselves, are Dr. H. P. Walcott of Mas- sachusetts, H. Waterer, Wm. K. Harris and Kobert Craig of Pennsylvania, T. H. Spaulding, John N. May and Pitcher & Manda of New Jersey, John Thorpe and V. H. Hallock & Son of New York, Fewkes & Sons, and Wood Bros., of Massachusetts, E. G. Hill & Co., F. Dorner and H. W. Eieman of Indiana, and Nathan Smith & Sons of Michigan. PROPAGATION" BY SEEDS. New varieties are obtained by planting the seeds of the most promising sorts, and if the flowers have beer cross-fertilized with pollen from plants of other desira- ble varieties, it is probable that some of the seedlings will show characteristics that will make them equal, or superior, to the parents. The per cent of plants that will show any value will be quite small, however, and perhaps nine-tenths of them will be discarded after one year's trial. The j)lants designed to be used as parents should be grown in small pots, and when the flowers develop, they should be placed in a dry room, where there will be an abundance of sunlight and air. The largest and most perfect flowers should be selected, and all others removed as they develop. When the flowers are fully open, the rays should be cut with a pair of shears, just above the stamens and pistils. As soon as the pollen has ripened, it should be conveyed upon a camel's-hair brush, or a toothpick, to the stigm.is of another plant. To secure the best results, this should be repeated for several days. It is thought by some that the flowers farthest from the center are most likiBly to produce good flowers. In selecting the parents, the objects to be attained should be kept in mind, and the choice should be care- fully made. If it is desired to know the exact parent- age, it is well to cover the flowers with paper or muslin 56 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. sacks, for a few days before and after pollinating. While the seed is ripening, the plants should be kept quite dry, and if proper surroundings cannot be given to the plants, the stems may be cut off and placed where they will not be in moist air. The seedlings are grown much the same as tliose of other plants, and require, after being potted off, about the same care as those grown from cuttings. PROPAGATIOX BY CUTTINGS. The usual method of propagating chrysanthemums is by means of cuttings. If large plants are desired, they are started in January or February, but wlien large blooms are wanted for exhibition purposes, the cuttings are often started as late as May or June, and the plants are grown to single stems and allowed to develop but one flower. In order to grow healthy plants that will give large and fine flowers, strong and vigorous cuttings will be nec- essary, and they will be best if they ai-e taken from plants that have not been forced. It is a good plan to select strong ^^lants in the spring and plant them out of doors as early as it is safe. PYom these stock plants, cuttings can be taken that will give good plants for sin- gle flowers. In the fall, take up the old plants, place in boxes, and keep until midwinter in a cold frame where they will not freeze. Then take into the house, and a large crop of excellent cuttings can be obtained. Tiie earlier ones will be just the thing for pot plants and for planting out as stock plants. In April, another crop of cuttings should be taken. These will answer for six-inch pot plants, and for either single stems or ''sprays," to bo planted in the houses for cut flowers. Another crop of cuttings can be taken in June, but it will be better to take them from plants set in the open ground, as recommended above. While most THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 57 of the cuttings for late blooms should be struck about the first of June, the first or even the fifteenth of July Avill not be too late to secure good results, if they are properly handled. CARE OF THE PLANTS. Chrysanthemums are grown by florists, either in beds or benches, when the flowers alone are desired, but are to some extent grown in large pots, both as standard and bush plants, for purposes of decoration and for specimens, and in small pots for sale. The treatment required for each kind of plant is somewhat difi'erent. The bench and the bed both have their advocates for growing the flowers, but while some varieties seem to do better in one than in the other, it may, perhaps, be truly claimed that the plants in the benches are least likely to suffer from over- watering, while they will need greater care if they are to escape iniuiy from neglect to water often enough, and good blooms can be obtained in either bench or bed. Unless top-dressing and liquid manuring are de- pended on to supply most of the plant food, the soil should be composed of about one part half-rotted cow manure and three parts thick sods, prepared as recom- mended for roses. If the soil is at all stiff, a small amount of sand should be added. At the bottom of the solid beds it is customary with many growers to place a layer of sods, with the grass side down, and cover them with about eight inches of the compost, while the bot- tom of the benches often has an inch of rotten cow manure upon it, with from four to six inches of the pre- pared soil. The same objections hold with this crop as with the rose, as to the excessive use of stable manure, and several growers are even now dispensing with the ma- nure and relying upon commercial fertilizers, prepared after special formulas, for the plant food needed by the 58 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. crop. Their success lias induced a very great interest in the matter. During the early part of the season, the flowers are grown either singly on the plants or as *'sprays," but later on the plants are trained to a single stem with one flower at the top. The cuttings for early flowers should be struck as soon as the first of April, and other batches should follow at intervals up to the first of July, when the cuttings for the single stem plants can be struck. The best cuttings are obtained from shoots that are firm and that have short internodes. Slender and wiry shoots, and also the weak and watery ones, should be avoided. The cuttings should not be over three and a half inches long, with the leaves on the lower half removed and the others reduced one-half in size. They may be rooted in small pots, pans or boxes, although if many are grown a cutting bed is desirable. The cuttings are inserted about half their length, in rows two inches aj^art, and about one inch in the rows. While bottom heat will hasten their rooting, it is not necessary, and good results will be obtained if placed near the glass, at a temperature of fifty degrees, even without bottom heat. If particularly fine plants with large blooms are desired for exhibition purposes, the cuttings should be placed singly in small pots containing a mixture of sand and compost at the bottom, and sand at the toji. When the roots are half an inch long they should be potted, as they will be less likely to wilt than if the roots have become longer and are broken in potting. Place in two and one-half-inch pots, using a compost of rotten sods, loam and sand. Keep at fifty to fifty-five degrees, and from this time never allow the plants to suffer for lack of water, food, air, or room. When the roots show through the soil, repot into the three and one- half-mch size, using a little richer compost, and when the roots have filled the pots, have the beds or benches THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 69 60 GREENHOUSE MAKAGEMENT. ready and plant out at once, which, for the first batch, should be the last of May or the first of June. Have the soil firmly pressed down upon the beds and just moist enough to work well. The distance for planting will depend something upon the number of flowers to be grown upon a plant. If more than one variety is grown in a bed, place the taller ones at the north end in a north and south house, so that they will not shade the others. As a rule, the rows across the beds are ten or twelve inches, and the plants eight inches in the rows when three or more flowers are grown to a plant, or six inches each way if the plants are to be grown to single stems. Water the plants thoroughly, and until they become established syringe them often, and shade the roof, using whitewash, or better, white lead and naphtha, mixed so as to make a thin wash. Until the roots have taken hold, care will be necessary to keep the soil from becom- ing saturated. In about a week, give the surface a good stirring and if more than one flower is desired from a plant, pinch out the tip buds to make them branch. As the side buds push out, rub them off at once, unless sev- eral flowers are desired, when we should allow three or four to grow and rub off the others. If more than tin's number of buds is desired to a plant, pinch out the end buds in the side shoots when they have made a growth of two or three inches, and allow two shoots to start from each, rubbing off all others. TRAINING AND TRELLISING. Arrangements should now be made for supporting the stems. This can be done in various ways (the train- ing to stakes is seen in Fig. 14), but the best method is to run a wire (No. 18) above each of the rows and tie the stems to wire rods (No. 9, galvanized), the upper ends of which are fastened to the wire. Another method THE CHEYSA2fIHEMUM. 61 63 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. is to run three wires lengthwise of the bed, about a foot apart, the lowest one being one foot above the soil, and tie the stems to them. A third way is to run a No. 18 wire along the surface of the bed and another three or four feet above it, and between these stretch jute or binder twine, to which the plants can be tied (Fig. lo). The plants for the late crop can be planted at any time from the first to the middle of July, or even as late as the first of August, and will require the same care and will be grown in the same way, except that they do not need more than five or six inches each way, and the tip bud is not removed, but is allowed to grow and form a long, single stem, from which all side buds are removed as they start. The stems are supported as recommended above and the same attention in watering and syringing will be required. The surface of the soil should be stirred occasionally, taking pains not to dig deep enough to injure the roots ; and the suckers that start about the base of the plants should be twisted off with the fingers, or carefully cut off below the surface of the soil with a knife. The growth of the plants should be carefully watched and if, at any time, it seems to slacken, or if the plants take on a yellowish color and the wood hardens, it generally indicates that the plant food in the original soil is about exhausted and that a new supply is needed. Some growers apply it in a mulch of sheep or cow manure, which both supplies food and jirevents the evaporation of moisture from the surface. Provided it is not due to the use of an excess of water, the yellow color is often an evidence that the plants are suifering from a lack of potash. At any rate, the use of a peck of unleached wood ashes to each hundred square feet of the bench will be a good thing. Others apply soot, either broadcast upon the surface, or in water. The use of ground bone upon the surface of the bed in THE CHRYSANTHEMtJM. 63 August, and again about tlie first of October, will be advisable. Liquid manures can also be used to advan- tage whenever the plants show the need of food, and it will always be well to use them freely once or twice a week, from the time the first flower buds show until they open enough to show the color of tbe flowers, when their use should be discontinued. On the other hand, there is danger from securing too soft and watery a growth, from the use of too much nitrogen in the manure, combined with an excessive amount of water. This should be checked at once by slightly withholding the water, and by decreasing the amount of nitrogen supplied in the manure water. Aside from the thick and watery growth of the stems, the plants also show that they are growing too rapidly, by tlie appearance of their leaves, which are, in addition to being very large, thick and succulent, likely to become wrinkled and twisted. Until the growth has been checked and become hardened, the plant will not develop first-class flowers. Not only should the general appear- ance of the flowers be noted, but the needs of each plant should be considered, and it should be given more or less, or, perhaps, none at ail, of the manure water. ''takixg" the buds and disbudding. As soon as the flower buds show, the plants should be looked over every day or two, in order that the flower buds may be "taken" at the proper time. This word is given to the choosing or the selection of the bud or buds upon a plant that is to flower, after whicli the others are removed. The buds may be either of two kinds, which have received the names of "crown" and "terminal." The name "crown" is applied to a single bud at the end of a shoot, upon which all of the other buds are leaf buds, as seen in Fig. IG. Just below tlie flower bud are several leaf buds that will be likely to grow up and, as Gi GREENHOUSE MAKAGEMENT. it were, smother the crown bud unless they are removed. As a rule, crown buds appear quite early in the season, and if they are taken then, they will not make good flowers, and even though it is thought best to use a crown bud (if one is formed before August 15), it will bo better to remove tlie crown bud and all but one of the leaf buds below it. A shoot will be developed from FIG. 16. CROWN BUD. this, which can be trained up and a *'late crown" bud that it may form can be taken. Later in the season it will be likely to produce a terminal bud. As a rule, it will be better not to take any buds until towards the last of August for tlie early sorts, and from that time until the middle to the hist of September for the late kinds. The crown buds are preferred by English grow- THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 65 ers, but except in special cases are not mncli used in America, as they are seldom found on plants grown from late struck cuttings, and because, especially in the case of varieties that have very full flowers, they are likely to be imperfect, owing to the increased number of petals that they form. Another point against flowers from crown buds is that the leaves below the flower are FIG. 17. TERMINAL BXTD. small and scattering. In many cases the flowers from crown buds are larger and the stems are stouter. It can then be seen that they may be preferable in the case of varieties with weak stems, or thin flowers. The other buds that may be taken are known as "terminals," because they form at the ends of the stems. They can be distinguished from the crown buds by hav- 66 GREENHOUSE MAN"AGEMENT. ing three or more fimoer buds below tliem on the stems, as seen in Fig. 17. As soon as these otlier buds have become large enough to admit of its being done readily, they shonld be removed. This can be easily done with the fingers, or, as some prefer, with a pen- knife, forceps, or pointed scissors. If in any way the bud becomes injured, the next best upon the stem should be taken and the others removed. It will be Avell tc begin the disbudding at the end of the stem, so that if a bud is injured there will be one lower down that can be left to form a flower. The flowers from terminal buds will not require more than two-thirds as long a time to develop as crowns, but as crown buds often form from four to six weeks earlier than the terminals, upon some varieties it may sometimes be necessary to take an early crown bud, if needed for exhibition purposes ear- lier than they can be obtained from terminals ; and early crown buds are sometimes taken in the case of early varieties from which early flowers are desired, but except for these reasons, and for those above given, the termi- nal buds are generally taken. Terminal buds seldom are ready to be taken until the middle of September, but whenever they ajipear the remaining buds should be removed. Flowers for exhibitions need about the same care as those for sale, except that it will pay to start them a lit- tle earlier and to give them a more liberal sj)ace in the beds. SINGLE STEM PLANTS IN POTS. A convenient size, whether for exhibition, decoration, or for sale, is a single stem plant, either in a four-inch pot or a five-inch pan. These can be taken from the last batch of cuttings, and it is a common practice to pot off for this purpose any plants that have not been planted or sold. They will need exactly the same care as the single stem plants in the beds. Another method THE CHETSANTHEMUM. 67 of growing single stem plants in pots is to place from three to six in pots or pans of larger sizes. These plants being in pots will require greater care than those planted in the beds, to prevent their drying out, and during the hot weather they should be watered at least twice daily, and should be syringed in the morn- ing and again in the afternoon of bright days. The pots can be kept in well-ventilated and partially shaded houses, or out of doors where they will not be likely to be neglected. Plunging them in coal ashes will lessen the danger of injury from the drying out of the soil, but at the same time it will increase the chance of harm coming to them from careless or excessive watering. Especial care should be taken to have the plants free from aphides at this time, and to secure it the houses should be given two or three thorough fumigations just before the buds open. While a light fumigation, if nec- essary, will not hurt the flowers, it will be better no-t to be obliged to use tobacco, either as smoke or as a spray, after this time. Particularly for the late flowers, the ventilators should be kept wide open during the day, but should be closed at night when the outside temperature drops below forty. If the house is damp, so that there is dan- ger of the moisture condensing on the flowers after they have opened, it will be well to have a little heat on the houses, and if necessary leave the upper ventilators a little open. Syringing should be done early enough to give the flowers time to dry off before night. SPECIMEN" POT PLANTS. Chrysanthemums are often grown in large pots for exhibition or decorative purposes. The cuttings are started about the first of March, and require the same care as those grown for planting in beds, instead of do- ing which, however, they are shifted until they are in 68 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT, ten- or twelve-incli pots, as may be desired. Witli each shift the amount of manure in the soil can be increased, until finally it is the same as nsed for the beds. When the plants are eight or ten inches high, according to the distance between the buds, the tip should be pinched out. This will cause the side shoots to develop, of ■which eight or ten should be allowed to grow. These should be evenly distributed around and along the cen- ter stem. When these are four or five inches long they should, in turn, be pinched back, and from two to four shoots allowed to form on each. While more shoots can be left if desired, a handsome plant will be formed from this number of shoots, and the flowers will be larger and finer than with a larger number. The pinching should be done not later than tlie first of August, in order to give the plants time to develop their flower shoots and buds. If large flowers are desired, only one flower should be allowed to form on each shoot, all other buds being rubbed off as soon as they form. Wlien the plants are disbudded, all injured and diseased leaves should be taken off, and a number of short stakes of galvanized wire should be set around the plant, to which the flower stems should be tied. In this way they can be trained to form a symmetrical plant. Plants in six- or eight-inch pots are also very useful, either for decoration or for sale. They will require about the care outlined above, except that thoy need not be started until April 1st. In order to form compact, shapely plants, the leader should be pinched lower, and not more than five to eight branches allowed to start. STANDARDS. As show plants and for exhibition, a few standards and half standards are grown. The former have bushy, or umbrella-shaped, tops at a bight of five or six feet upon a smooth, bare stem, while the stems of the latter THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 69 are three or four feet high. These plants are grown from cuttings, generally suckers, started in December or January, and receive about the same care as the sm- gle stemmed plants. They are not stopped until the desired hight is reached, and the head then formed is trained as desired. While the greatest pains is taken to prevent the development of side shoots on the yonhg plants, the foliage should be preserved, and not removed until the head is formed. FIELD CULTURE. When the plants are grown in the field, as is still sometimes practiced by amateurs, the soil should be thorouglily prepared, and enriched either with stable manure or commercial fertilizers. If well hardened in a cold frame, the plants may be put out as soon as dan- ger of severe frost is over, which will be by the middle of May in most localities. The plants, to be well grown, will require about tlie same care in pinching and train- ing as was described for the pot-grown plants. If side stakes are desired, they should be inserted near the stem of the plant, and incline outward. In this way they can be taken up with the ball of earth, and potted, with- out being disturbed. In dry seasons, it will be well to scatter a mulch along the rows, to keep the soil from drying out and, when water is used, to prevent baking. Whenever the soil seems dry, water should be given the plants, even- ing being the best time to apply it. If the soil has been properly enriched, no liquid manure need be given these plants while in the ground, but if they fail to make a satisfactory growth from a lack of plant food, a forkful of decomposed manure can be used to advantage around each plant. When water is applied, it will be washed out and carried down to the roots, where it will be taken up and used by the plants. The plants should be taken 70 GREEXHOUSE MANAGEMENT. up and potted by the first of August, and will need about the same attention as the plants that have not been planted out. STAKING THE POT PLANTS. All pot plants should be provided with a center stake, or wire rod, to which the main stem should be tied, and bush plants will need from three to seven, in order to keep the side shoots in place, and prevent them from breaking down. AVhen perfect phmts are desired for exhibition j^urposes, considerable attention is given to the training of the plants. Commencing at the time of the second pinching, the side shoots should be drawn into place and held there with loops of raffia. When pinched the next time, hoops or rings of wire can be fastened to the stakes, and the laterals can be tied to them. With large plants, a second, and even a third, ring will be found useful. LIQUID MANURE. As soon as the plants have become established in the beds, tliey should receive applications of liquid manure once a week until the flowers open, and the pot- grown plants will need this treatment, commencing the first of July. It is also well, as soon as the weather becomes hot and dry, to mulch the plants in the beds with an inch or so of cow or sheep manure, which will both hold the moisture and supply food for the growth of the plants. As the flower buds develop, there is par- ticular need of liquid manure, and if furnished freely it will increat-'e the size and perfection of the flowers. When the buds open, and during the period of flower- ing, no manure should be given them, and great care should be taken in watering the plants. VARIETIES AND THEIR CLASSIFICATION. The work of crossing the varieties has been carried 80 far that it is hard to tell where one class ends and THE CHRTSAKTHEMUM. 71 another begins. The nsual classification takes into account the shape of the florets and the appearance of the blooms, and divides the chrysanthemums into In- curved, Reflexed, Japanese, Anemone, Japanese Anemone, Pompon and Pompon Anemone. The incurved class is made up largely of Chinese varieties, which have broad, strap-shaped florets that are curved inward, and give the bloom a spherical or globu- lar form. As a rule, the florets are regularly arranged, and make a symmetrical bloom. The reflex class differs from the above in that the florets curve outward, and thus show only their inner face. A perfect flower of this group should have broad florets, a full center, and an even, symmetrical arrangement. As a rule, the florets overlap so closely that the blooms are quite flat. Oul- lingfordii may be taken as an example of this class. In the Japanese, the short tubular florets found in the incurved group are replaced by others that may be of almost any shape, length or size, flat, quilled, or fluted, short or long, straight or twisted, thread-like or ribbon-like. The group includes such sorts as Major Bonnaffon and Kioto, classed as Japanese incurved, and Viviand Morel as Japanese reflexed. The Anemone flowered class have in their disc or center, short quill-like florets, surrounded by rows of broad, flat florets forming a horizontal border. A Jap- anese section of this class has about the same variation in the character of the ray flowers as is found in tlie Japanese class itself. The Pompon group contains plants with small and regular, but quite close, blooms, that flower profusely. The florets are all the same, and form a globular bloom from one to two inches in diam- eter. They are quite hardy, and are among the best for the amateur. The Anemone Pompon class differs in having disc flowers that are quilled like those of the Anemone group. 72 GREEmrousE maitagemeni; SELECTIOir OF VARIETIES. Among the things to be considered in a variety are the habit and strength of the jilants, the character of the foliage and the color, size, shape and substance of the flowers. -Very few of the kinds of five years ago are now grown to any extent, so great has been the iinprove- FIG. 18. CHRYSAXTHEJimM EUGENE DAILLEDOUZE. ment with this flower. For the production of cut flow- ers it is particularly desirable that such kinds be selected as will afford a succession throughout the season. Although they are often in the market before the mid- dle of September, there is but little call before the first THE CHRYSAlfTHEMUlI. 73 of October, but from that time Tintil tlie close of the season one should be able to show plants in flower. Among the best of the very early kinds is Lady Fitzwigram, white ; following a few days later are Mar- quis de Montmort, a large early joink sort; Mrs. E. G. Hill, a veiy handsome, large, pink variety, also Lady FIG. 19. CHRYSANTHEMUM MAYFLOWER. Plairfair, another desirable pink variety. Among the early yellow sorts are Marion Henderson, with a hand- some flower of good size and color ; Miss M. M. John- son, with a full incurved golden yellow flower ; Yellow Queen, Golden Wedding and H. L. Sunderbruch, Glori- 9§um and Mrs, J, G. Whilldin are still valuable early 74 GKEENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. yellow kinds. Of the new yellow varieties none is more promising than Modesto. It is of a pleasing shade of light yellow, and in form, size and "petallage" is quite satisfactory. Among the later yellow varieties are W. H. Lincoln, H. W. Rieman, Eugene Dailledouze (Fig. 18), Major FIG. 20. CHKVSANTHEMUM MRS. PKHIUN. Bonnaffon and Mrs. F. L. Ames. Of the other white sorts, coming after Lady Fitzwigram, Autumn Bride is a very promising pure white variety, as are Mayflower (Fig. 19) and Mme. F. Bergman and Mrs. H. Robinson. Among the other well-known white sorts are Niveus, THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 75 FIG. 21. CHKYSAKTHEMTTM lOKA, GROWN BY NATHAN SMITH & SON, ADKIAN, MICH. 76 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. which has an excellent stem and foliage and very large flowers, and Queen, a splendid sort Avith perfect foliage and handsome flowers that kee]) remarkably well. Ivory, early, Minnie Wannamaker, medium, and Mrs. Jerome Jones, late, of the older kinds, are still valuable. Of the pink kinds, Mrs. Perrin (Fig. 20) is a promising new variety, while lora (Fig, 21) has made an excellent im- pression as an exhibition variety. Viviand Morel holds a high place as an early variety, and Harry Balsley, although not good in plant, has a good color. V. II. Hal- lock, Eda Prass and Mrs. Bayard Cutting are also good. Among other sorts worthy of a place in a collection are Clinton Chalfant, Jos. H. White, Pres. W. R. Smith, Inter-Ocean, Georgienne Bramhall, Eldorado and Mutual Friend. Cullingfordii still deserves a place as a dark red, as does Hicks Arnold as a bronze. John Shrimp- ton has been well received as a maroon variety. The flower is of good size, color and form, and the stem is stiff and well clothed. The principal call is for white, pink and yellow flowers and of course the largest num- ber of plants should be of those colors. Some five or six years ago, Mrs. Alpueus Hardy, a white variety with its ray flowers studded with short hairy growths, and a year later Louis Boehmer, which differed in being of a dirty pink color, were introduced, but have found little favor, except as oddities, with flo- rists. In addition to the above, the class is now repre- sented by Miss Annie Manda, white, Wm. Faboner, pink, and W. A. Manda and Patrick Barry, yellow, which are improvements over the original varieties. Golden Hair and R. M. Gray are still later and better varieties. INSECTS AND DISEASES. In addition to the green aphis, chrysanthemums are frequently infested with a black form. These can be THE VIOLET. 'J"? destroyed by the same remedies as are used for the others, but they are harder to keep in check. Fre- quently, when plants are grown in pots, the lower leaves are lost. This may be due to a variety of causes, such as crowding and lack of air, too much water, lack of frequent syringing, exposure to drying winds, etc. ; and a remedy can be found by avoiding each and all of these things. We also find that the foliage often takes on an unhealthy color, which may be due from the plant being in too small a pot, lack of food, too much or too little water, crowding, or exposvire to the wind. Having found the cause, the remedy will be apparent. Whatever metliod of growing the plants is prac- ticed, the best results can only be obtained when strong cuttings are used, and when the plants are kept growing without a check from the time they are potted till they are through blooming. For the "Leaf Spot" and other fungous diseases, the plants should be sprayed with cop- per sulphate solution. CHAPTER IV. THE VIOLET. Few of our greenhouse plants have so steadily maintained their hold upon public favor as has the mod- est violet. It is easily grown and is so generally useful that no florist can do without it. For the winter flow- ering of this plant, a greenhouse in which the night temperature will not be above forty-five degrees is desir- able, but they are often wintered in cold frames, and give an abundance of blooms as tlie warm weather of spring comes on. If a greenhouse is not at one's dis- posal, the plants may be covered with a narrow frame, 78 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. around which a wider and deeper one is placed. If the space between the frames is packed with horse manure, and the outer frame banked up witli the same material, double sash, mats and shutters will keep out frost, except in very severe weather, and a fair crop can in his way be obtained. VIOLET HOUSES. While for the successful growing of violets certain requirements must be observed, the form of the house seems to be of less importance than with many other FIG. 22. NARROW VIOLET HOUSE. plants. Good results can be obtained in lean-to, even- span or three-quarter sp;in houses, but, as a rule, if a house is to be constructed especially for this crop, an even-span house will generally be preferred. The prin- cipal objection to the three-quarter span house is the amount of strong sunlight that the plants are subjected to, owing to the exposure to the soutli. This can to some extent be corrected by good ventilation, and tlie form of house has the further advantage of being more generally adapted to other crops, in case the culture of the violet should at any time be given up. THE VIOLET. •HQ 80 GKEENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. In the past, narrow houses from ten to twelve feet in width (Fig. 22) have been most used, but those of recent construction are twenty feet and even wider. Among the requirements for a violet house are (1) ven- tihiting arrangements that will furnish an abundance of fresh air. On this account, ventilators are necessary in each of the side walls of the house, as well as a row at the ridge. It will be desirable to have the houses stand a little apart to secure this, as well as to prevent the lodging of the snow between the houses. (2) The houses should be so glazed as to avoid drip. For this reason a rather steep roof is desirable; the sash bars should be provided with drip grooves and the glazing should be carefully done. Use 14x14 or 16xlG inch glass, butted without putty, and held in place with a wooden cap. Take pains to lay the panes with the curve up and with the thick edge at the bottom. If carefully laid there will be little drij?, although there will be rather more than when the glass is lapped and laid in putty. (3) Use wide, solid beds and have a walk along each wall where it will occupy room of little value to the crop. Thus for a house twenty-two feet wide (Fig. 23) we should have two beds each seven feet wide, and three walks, the center one being two feet and six inches, and the outer ones one foot and nine inches wide. If they are given proper attention in a house of this kind, the plants will do much better, and will be far less likely to be attacked by disease, than when grown in dugouts and other houses with heavy rafters, and covered with hotbed sashes that cause a large amount of drip. Most of the narrow (ten or twelve foot) houses that have been used for the violet have had two side beds and a center walk, but rather better results will be obtained with a bed in the center of the house seven or seven and one-half feet wide, and a walk along either wall of the house (Fig. 24). THE VIOLET. 81 Some have found less trouble from spot and other diseases when the phmts are placed in the houses early in the summer, without being planted in the open ground. If this is done, it Avill be well to take out every third or fourth row of glass. Although sash houses are not desirable on account of the drip, they have the advantage of permitting tlie removal of the roof, and are very commonly used when the plants are FIG. 24. NARROW VIOLET HOUSE, IJirROVED. placed at once in the house without being planted out of doors. The use of hot water for heating the house will be I)referable, unless it is a part of a large range, when steam may be used. The piping should be sufficient to secure a temjicrature of forty degrees during the coldest weatheri "While a few degrees less than this would do no harm, it will be undesirable to have it go much higher, forty-five degrees being as high as the tempera- ture should be raised at night by fire heat. If it is likely to go above that degree, air should be given, 6 82 GREENHOUSE MAKAGEMENT. While it will always be best to buy wrouglit iron pipe, if one has four-inch cast iron pipe on hand, a yiolet house will be a better jilace for it than one requiring a high temperature. PROPAGATTOI^. Violets are generally propagated from cuttings of the young shoots, although the old plants are some- times divided. Care should be taken to select the cut- tings from healthy plants, and if only those from sti'ong, Tigorous plants, that have given large numbers of large, perfect flowers, are used, the tendency will be to develop an improved strain of the variety. On the other hand, if they are chosen at random, from plants that have been grown at a high temperature during an entire win- ter, it will not be strange if weak plants, that will quickly succumb to disease, are obtained. Cuttings may be made either in September or October, or in the spring. If made in the spring from plants that have been forced, they will have a weaker constitution than if taken from strong and vigorous plants. If made in September, the runners are cut off four or five inches long, and set in a bed of light, sandy soil. By carefully watering and shading them for a few days, they will soon take root. Tliese plants, if covered with a cold frame and mulched with leaves, will be in excellent condition for planting out in the spring. In case old plants have been wintered in a cold frame, good cuttings can be obtained in the spring from them, but, lacking these, the plants in the greenhouse can be used as stock plants. The cuttings may be made the last of March or the first of April and placed in a cutting bed ; after rooting, they should be boxed or potted off in sandy soil, or, if the ground is moist, or so situated that it can be watered, they may be planted out without previous treatment. As a check at the time they are trans- THE TIOLET. Hd planted Aom the field to the house has much to do with inviting the development of the violet disease, it is by many thought best to set the young plants at once in the greenhouse beds where they are to flower, and thus avoid the check that is likely to be incurred when they are grown in the field and then transplanted. SOIL AND PLANTING OUT. While violets will give good results upon almost any good soil, they will succeed best upon one that is moist, but well drained, and while heavy is not so stiff as to bake or crack. If the soil is naturally rich, the use of from five to ten pounds of ground bone to the square rod will give stronger and healthier jDlauts than if they are grown with stable manure. The plants, when grown out of doors during the summer, should be set about nine or ten inches apart in the rows, which should be at intervals of twelve or fifteen inches, unless large numbers are grown, when they are better if placed thirty inches, so that they can be worked with the horse. The care required by them is simple, but they should not be neglected. The run- ners that start should be cut off, to cause the plants to thicken np, and if the summer is a dry one they should be mulched and, as a last resort, watered, a treatment that should suffice to keep down the red spider, which might otherwise trouble them; at any rate, frequent shallow cultivation should not be neglected. As fall approaches, the plants should be taken up and placed either in a cold frame or upon beds in the greenhouse. While some growers use six- or seven-inch pots, nearly all violet growers place them in beds, in which the soil is from five to eight inches deep, and composed of four parts of rotted sods to one part of cow manure. The beds, whether shallow or solid, should be raised above the level of the floor, so as to bring the 84 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. plants near tlie glass, that they may have all of the light possible. The distance at Avhich the plants should be placed in the beds varies from eight to ten incnes, according to the strength of the plants. In case t!ie soil in which the plants have been grown is light or exhausted, the ball may be broken and most of the soil shaken off, but if it is still worth using, the nnbroken balls should be set in the bed, wnth tlie least possible disturbance. For a few days, the plants should be shaded and syringed frequently, with thorough ven- tilation, in order that the check from transplanting may be reduced as much as possible. All yellow and dis- eased leaves should be picked off as soon as the plants have become established. Great care should be taken that the temperature of the house does not get above forty-five degrees at night, although ten degrees more during the day will be desirable. Especially if some or all of the pipes are under the benches, great care should be taken in watering, as the soil at the bottom of the bed is likely to become dry, unless this is properly attended to. When surface watering is given, the water should be applied until the bed drips, and it should then be withheld until the bed begins to diy. Particular attention should also be given to prevent any drip upon the plants or the bed itself. With good care, a liouse of violets should average twenty to thirty flowers i)er jilant, and there are records of much lai'ger crops. GROWING THE PLANTS IN THE HOUSE. If the plants are to be grown in the beds in the house they should be in place by the middle of May, if not before. The soil for this 2iur])ose should be even richer than is recjuired for field-grown plants when they are set in the house, and in addition to the rich compost a liberal quantity of ground bone can be used to advan- tage. If an old solid bed is to be used_. the surface THE VIOLET. ^5 should be taken off and three or four inches of compost, composed of three parts of rotten sods and one part of decomposed cow manure, added. While one strong plant in a place will generally make a good clump, some growers use two or three. About once a week or ten days the surface of the bed should be loosened and all runners should be pinched off. In four or five months after the plants were set, strong plants will be formed and flowers will show. As the weather gets colder, and before severe frosts come, the sash should be placed on the house, but the arrange- ments for thorough ventilation should be ample, and it should at no time be neglected. Care should be taken to regulate the time of water- ing, to permit the plants to dry off before night. If they are syringed, it should be only early in the morn- ing of briglit days, and, so far as possible, the water should not be allowed to fall upon the leaves when it is applied to the soil. As sub-irrigation not only admits of applying the water without wetting the surface soil, but aids in 'keeping the foliage dry, it is especially desirable for this crop. For several years many growers have experienced considerable loss from what is known as the "violet dis- ease." Eeally, there are a half dozen diseases that attack the violet, any one of which may practically ruin the crop. The "eel-worms" {Nematodes) also work havoc, particularly in poorly drained soil, by causing galls upon the roots. Tlie violet diseases are, undoubtedly, one and all, invited by unfavorable conditions of growth or sur- roundings. A superabundance of fresh stable manure might cause a soft watery growth ; a high temperature and long continued forcing would also weaken their vitality and render them easy victims. The real cause is that the spores ^seeds) of the different diseases find 86 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. conditions favorable to their propagation and growth. Much can be done to hold them in check if the decayed leaves are frequently removed, and the germs destroyed. With healthy plants to start with, and with proj^er care in watering and ventilating, the danger of the api^earance of tlie various violet diseases will be greatly reduced, but if any of the plants show traces of any disease, the injured leaves should be pulled off and burned. The surface of the soil should also be occa- sionally stirred and all litter removed. The violet is troubled by few insects, the most trou- blesome being the aphis and red spider ; frequent fumiga- tion for the former, and syringing for the latter, should hold them in check. VAKIETIES. Until recently the Marie Louise was more largely grown than all other varieties put together. It is of a rich, dark blue, with a v/hitish center. The flowers are large, firm, and quite fragrant. \Yhen healthy, it is vigorous and quite floriferous, but for several years many florists have been unable to grow it successfully, owing to its liability to the attack of some of the various diseases of the violet. Lady Hume Campbell has wdtli many growers suj)er- seded the above kind. The plants are strong, compact, and quite free from disease. The flowers are large, double, extremely fragrant, with long stems and of a light blue color. The Farquhar is a new sort that has been less thor- oughly tested, but the very highest claims are made for it so far as health, vigor and freedom of bloom, and the form, color and fragrance of the flowers are concerned. Swanley White is still the best of its color, but is little grown. THE VIOLET. 87 Recently there has been considerable interest in sin- gle varieties, as tliej are generally less subject to disease and are freer in flowering-thuu the double sorts. They have little substance and are less called fur than the double flowers. In Paris, however, they are all the rage and they may soon become the fashion in this country. California is among those most largely grown. It has large, rich green leaves that stand u}) well from the KIG. 25. SINGLE VIOLET, PRINCESS DE GALLES. Giowii by Fred. Boulon, Sea Cliff, N. Y. ground. The flowers are large, of a rich, bluish purple color, and very fragrant. Flower stems long and stout. Thought by some to be identical with Mad. E. Arene. Luxonne has petals about the same size as those of the California, but they aj^pear larger, as they open out 88 GREEXnOUSE MANAGEMENT. flat. A freer bloomer, flowering from September ^^ntil April. Princess of Wales (de Galles) (Fig. 25), is rather smaller than Luxonne, quite free from disease and of a handsome violet color. Admiral Avellan has diirk green leaves, and large reddish-purple flowers that are very fragrant and lasting. CHAPTER V. BULBS AND THEIR CULTURE. During the last ten years tliis class of plants has come to the front for winter forcing, and bulbs now stand next to the rose and carnation in the attention that is paid to them for this purpose. The kinds that are most commonly used are Roman Hyacinths, Lilies {Lilium Harrisii and candidum), Narcissus of vai-ions kinds, Freesias, Tulips, Lily of the Valley and Callas. Although a few callas and tulips are grown in this country, most of the bulbs are imported during the summer and fall from Holhmd. As a rule, we may say that bulbs require a rich loam soil, to which about one-fourth its bulk of sand has been added. The bulbs are imported as they ripen, and will be received at intervals from August to November. They should be at once potted off. Some growers pot about one-half of the bulbs as soon as they are received, and the others are kept from four to eight weeks, that they may be later in coming into flower, and thus give a succession. HYACINTHS, TULIPS AND NARCISSUS. The Roman hyacinths, tulips, narcissus and similar bulbs, when grown for cut flowers, are placed in shal- BULBS AND THEIR CULTUKE. 89 90 GREENHOUSE MAlfAGEMEIfT. low boxes (Fig. 20), that are of a convenient size for handling, at a distance apart eqnal to about twice their diameter, and so that they will just show above the sur- face. If desired for decoration, rather than for cutting, they can be i)laced in pots or deep pans, of from four to six inches diameter, with smaller intervals between them. As soon as potted, the soil should be moistened, and they should then be placed where they can be kept cool, in order to give the roots an opportunity to develop. If one has a cold pit they can be placed in that, but any well-drained spot out of doors, where they will be somewhat sheltered from the sun, will answer. The boxes and pots should be so placed that they can be readily covered with from three to four inches of coal ashes or sand. This will hold the moisture and keep them from drying out, but an inch or so of hay over the ashes will aid both in holding the moisture and in keep- ing them cool. If one does not have a cold pit, an empty cold frame can be used to store the bulbs in, and if this is not available, the boxes and pots should be so arranged that a frame can be placed about them as win- ter comes on. By covering them with sash, mats and shutters, the frost can be kept cut. Hay or straw could be used for the same purpose, and is desirable for the early sorts, as it hastens their development, but they fre- quently attract mice and the bulbs may; as a conse- quence, be destroyed, so that it is not safe to use them for the late bulbs. As soon as the roots have filled the pots, the plants may be taken out. It is best to start only a part of them at a time, and these should be placed in a cool greenhouse near the glass, at first, and then removed to one where the temperature is at least sixty degrees. The Roman hyacinths should be kept in a frame for fully two months, but as a rule six weeks will suffice for narcissus. If either, however, is placed in the forcing BULBS AND THEIR CULTURE. 91 house before tlio roots have made their growth, the flower stalk will be weak, and nothing will be gained, even in carliness. As a rale, the Eom:in hyacinths, and Early Roman and Paper White narcissus will be in bloom by the 15th to the 20th of December, and by bringing them in at intervals of ten days or two weeks, they can be had in bloom until the first of March, and even later, if de- sired. Tnlips can be brought in be- foi'e Christmaf, and by proper care in se- lection of varieties and in handling can be had in bloom all winter. Daffodils do not flower, as a FIG. 27. DOUBLE DUTCH j.^^jp b 6 f O r 6 Fcb- HYACINTHS. ruary. Dutch hyacinths (Fig. 27), which are so commonly grown for bedding pur- poses and for decoration, are not forced to any extent for their flowers. If de- sired for sale or to brighten up the houses, they should be grown exactly the same as the Eoman hyacinth and tulips. The Roman hyacinth is still the favorite, ar.d although the red and blue varieties are sometimes grown, the num- vlli; ber of white ones used exceeds both of fig. 28. improved the others a hundred fold. hyacinth glass. If go;-)d results are desired with Dutch hyacinths, it will pay to buy good bulbs of named sorts, and they will be found profitable if grown for retailing. The bulbs can be placed singly in five-inch pots, but they will be rather more attractive if from three to five are placed in a pan six or seven inches in diameter. 92 GREEKUOUSE MANAGEMENT. "When nsed as house plants, hyacinths may he flovr- ered in glasses made for tlie purpose. These consist of a flask to hold water, with an enlargement at the top, in which the bulb is placed so that it will barely touch FIG. 29. SINCI.K KAUI.Y TUl.ir.S. tlie water. Eoots will soon form and grow downward into the water. The glasses should be kept rather cool and out of the direct sunshine until the roots have formed. An improved form of hyacinth glass is shown BtJLBS AND THEIR CtlLTUEE, 93 in Fig. 38. This lias an inner tube in which the roots are confined. Of narcissus, the Paper White is the favorite with the florists. It is very easily forced and comes at a time when there is a scarcity of Avhite flowers. The Early Eoman and Von Sion, Incomparable and Trumpet Mtijor daffodils are most largely grown of the other kinds. The tulips (Fig. 29) are highly esteemed for their bright colors. They range in color from white and yel- low to rose, scarlet and crimson. The single sorts are generally used for forcing ; the Due Van Thol, being one of the best early sorts, is about the only one that can be brought into flower by Christmas. By the first to the middle of January such kinds as La Eeine and White Pottebakker, wliite ; La Belle Alliance, scarlet; Brilliant, vermilion ; Yellow Prince and Chrysolora, yel- low; Eose Grisdelin and Cottage M^aid, pink; Keizer- kroon and Joost van Vondel, striped, can be brought into flower. Among the later sorts, Murillo, double pink, and Tournesol, red and yellow, will be found desirable varieties for forcing. As a rule, the solid col- ors in tulips will be found preferable to the striiDed varieties. By bringing in the Due Van Thol about the last of November and giving it seventy degrees, it will flower by Christmas. With this and other varieties that show a tendency to have short stems, marked ben- efits can be obtained if they are shaded with cheese cloth or some similar covering. These varieties are most esteemed for early winter and to follow them there is a long list of named sorts in solid colors or vari- egated. For other varieties of tulips and narcissus, the reader is referred to any of the bulb catalogues, that are issued each year. The crocus is also largely gi-own for purposes of sale or decoration. It requires the same care as the tulip, but is generally used to fill pans, or to border pans of u GREENHOUSE MAXAGEME:NT. no. 30. FliEESIA KEFiiACIA ALBA. BULBS AND THEIR CULTURE. 95 bulbs of other kinds. The colors are white, yellow or purjile, solid or striped. Freesias (Fig. 30) are generally placed in boxes at intervals during the autumn and kept upon a bench in a cool greenhouse, or in a pit, for five or six weeks, after which they are gradually brought into heat. LILIES {Harrmi and candidum) The lilies require about the same care as the above mentioned bulbs. They are frequently placed in six- inch pots, or in boxes about five inches deep. The Lilium Harrisii or Easter Lily (Fig. 31) is sometimes received from Bermuda, where it is extensively grown, by the middle of July, but the bulbs are immature, and far better and about as early flowers will be obtained if they are given another month in which to develop. Even after the pots have become filled with roots, several months must pass before the flowers will develop. As soon as .the flower stalks start, the lilies should be placed in a cool house for a week or so, before being placed in the room where they are to be forced. A very high temperature is required to bring them in by Christ- mas, but from the middle of January until April, flow- ers can be had in abundance, if j)roper steps were taken to secure a succession. Those for Easter should be brought into the house from the 10th to the 15th of November. Lilium candidum and L. longifiorum require ex- actly the same care as the Bermuda lily, but they are stronger growers and do iiot force as readily. The bulbs of all the lilies are graded according to their diam- eter, the size ranging from twelve to eighteen centime- ters (5-7 inches) to thirty or thirty-five centimeters, or about twelve to fourteen inches in diameter. The sec- ond size, eight to ten inches, is generally used for forcing. 96 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. LILY OF THE VALLEY. Lily of the valley pips are generally imiDortcd from Hamburg, Germany, about the middle of October. ^.^ 2^#^ FIG. 31. LILIUM HARKISII. When received, they should be packed away in the orig- inal bundles, in boxes of soil, and placed in some cool BULBS AlsTD TitEIR CULTURE. 97 place to complete their period of rest until about a month before tliey are to be flowered, when they should be placed about an inch apart in boxes of sand or sandy loam, with the pips about half their length in the soil. '■ hey should be placed in partial shade (Fig. 32), where L c CO IS ? 3 they can have a strong, bottom heat of nearly one hun- dred degrees. If the pips can be kept in a cool pit, where the temperature is about tliirty-five degrees, until ready for forcing, flowers can be obtained in three weeks, 7 98 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. or even less. When placed in a cold storage house, they can be kept for a year. Unlike other bulbs that are forced, they do not require to form roots before being brought into heat. THE TUBEROSE. The tuberose, some ten years ago, was extensively forced, but it receives little attention to-day for winter blooming. For spring flowering, the first lot may be placed in four-inch pots soon after Christmas, and plunged in damp sphagnum or sand, in a forcing house, where they will have a bottom heat of eighty degrees. A succession can be secured by starting others at inter- vals of three weeks. If designed for flowering in the fall, the bulbs should be kept in a cool place, where they will be moist enough not to dry out, until August, when the first batch can be started, and with a second a few weeks later, flowers can be obtained from Novem- ber until January. CALLA. The calla is one of the easiest flowers to force, and it can generally be used to good advantage. The bulbs should be potted in August, having first rubbed ofl all suckers, and after receiving a good watering should be kept for a month in some cool place, where they will not be allowed to dry out. It requires a richer soil than most bulbs and delights in an abundance of water. A seven-inch pot will answer for a large bulb, and if a larger pot or tub is used, there should be several bulbs placed in it. As soon as the season of growth is over, the pots shouVd be placed on their sides, and kept in a cool, airy place, without water, for several months. Unlike the hyacinths and narcissus, the calla can be grown for several years without renewing the stock, although many florists prefer to purchase each year BULBS ^.:SD TUEIR CULTURE. 99 bulbs grown in California. The Little Gem is a minia- ture calla that has many uses. Of the otlier bulbs, the lilies are the only ones that can be forced for a second year, after having had good culti- vation in the open ground for two years. While the others are worthless for forcing, or even for bedding, if good results are expected, the tulips, in jiarticular, can be used to good advantage by planting them about the shrubbery, and under the edges of evergreens. Although not a florists' bulb exactly, the oxalis should be more commonly grown. The Boweii, red; Lutea, yellow; and Versicolor, red and white, are among the most desirable sorts as pot plants, or for hanging baskets, vases, etc. They have a decorative effect and find a ready sale. The bulbs should be planted in a rich, sandy compost in October, in small pots, and will require no care, except an occasional watering, until they have filled the pots, ^\hen they should be shifted into the four-inch size. The oxalis is well adapted for use in hanging baskets, window boxes and as a border for beds, as well as for use as a pot plant. The bulbs should be started at inter- vals during the fall, if a succession of bloom is desired. They may be planted where they are to flower, or the bulbs may be placed in three-inch pots and shifted to the beds or pots. A good bulb will fill a five-inch pot, or several may be placed in a large pot or pan. The oxalis does well at quite a range of temperature, but about sixty degrees will give the best results. When through flowering, and the leaves begin to turn yelloAV, water should be gradually withheld. During the resting period the bulbs may be left in the pots, which should be turned on their sides in some place where they cannot become wet, or they maybe taken out and kept in boxes. 100 GREENHOUSE MA.N-AGEMENT. CYCLAMEN". The cyclamen (Fig. 33) was formerly sown in the spring, but better results are obtained if the seed is planted in September. The plants are kept in two-inch pots until March, Avhen they should be placed in fonr- inch. About the middle of May, they should be re- FIG. 33. CYCLAMEN. moved to a frame and, if well cared for, will be large enough for six-inch pots by July. They should be cov- ered with cloth sash during the summer, but it should be raised to give thorough ventilation. During the summer the plants should be syringed BULBS AND THEIR CULTURE. 101 if the -weather is hot and diy, and they should have plenty of fresh air. Liquid manure should be given when the roots have filled the flowering potSo As cooler weather approaches keep a little closer and if the plants have been kept in a cold frame remove to a house where they can have some heat, if necessary to secure a warm, dry atmosphere. During the winter they should be kept at 55 or GO degrees until through flowering. When the leaves begin to turn yellow induce rest by moving the plants to a cooler house and gradually withholding water. They should not be allowed to become dust dry so that the bulbs will shrivel. After a short rest the new leaf-stalks will begin to start and the bulbs should be repotted into four- or five-inch pots, using a light and open but rich compost, and giving thorough drainage. Eepot when necessary up to six- or seven-inch pots and give the same care as the first year. FORCIlSrG THE GLADIOLUS. The gladiolus is coming into favor as a bulb for spring forcing. It can be grown with but little care, and the flowers will be even finer than those grown out of doors. The bulbs need to complete their period of rest before they are started into growth, and nothing will be gained by planting them before the last of December, unless bulbs are used that have been forced the previous year. They can be grown either in beds, boxes or pots, but one of the latter will generally be found preferable, as it admits of keeping them in a cool place until the roots have formed, which is desirable. They also do well planted out in the beds with carna- nations and even in rose houses, but it Avill be best to start them in pots and transplant them to the beds after the pots have become filled with the roots. They can be grown in the boxes about the same as Holland bulbs, using rather heavier and richer soil. 102 GREEXIIOUSE JTA^TAGEMENT. The bulb should be barely covered with the soil, and as there is clanger of the damping off of the shoots if over- watered, it is a good plan to have the surface half-inch of sand. Water thoroughly and place under the benches, where the temperature will be fifty degrees, BULBS AN"D THEIR CULTURE. 103 until the roots have filled the soil and the leaves have started. Gradually increase the heat to sixty and to seventy- five degrees. When the buds begin to form, give liquid manure once a week. If properly handled, the flowers will be ready to cut by Easter. Among the best varieties for forcing are May (Fig. 34), Buchanan and Shakespeare. CHAPTER VI. TUBEROUS BEGONIAS. During the past ten years, few plants have increased in public favor more than the tuberous begonia (Fig. 35). The plants are rapidly propagated from seed, and can be grown as readily as geraniums, while for six months of the year they are resting and require no care. For pot or out-of-door culture they have few superiors. The "tubers" can be purchased at reasonable rates, or they can be grown from seed. PROPAGATION. The seeds should be planted about February 1, in shallow flats or seed pans. The boxes or pans should be half filled witli broken crocks or other drainage, upon which there should be about an inch of fine compost, composed of rotten sods, leaf mold and sharp sand. Moisten the soil and scatter the seeds quite thickly, cover with a thin layer of sifted sphagnum and fine sand, using just enough to hold the seeds in place. To prevent the soil from drying cut, cover the box with glass, paper, or, better yet, long fibers of sphag- num. Place out of the direct sunlight, in a moderate bottom heat, with ?j night temperature of sixty degrees. Jf glass is used^ it Is well to cover it with paper and to 104 GREEiq'HOUSE MANAGEMENT. TUBEROUS BEGONTAS. 105 keep it slightly raised, to afford ventilation. When the seeds have germinated, the sphagnum and paper shonld be removed, and a close and warm atmosphere should be avoided. As soon as the second leaves appear, they FIG. 36. SINGLE TUBEKOUS BEGONIA. should be pricked out in flats or pans, and from this time on they should never be alloAved to stop in their growth* 106 GTIEENIIOUSE MANAGEMENT. A good potting soil for the begonias is made of well- rotted iibrous sods, to which the same amount of a mix- ture of well-decomposed leaf mold, cow manure and sharp sand in equal parts is added. A little ground FTC. .37. DOUP.LE TUr.EUOUS BEGONIA. bone will also be of value. As soon as the plants begin to crowd, they should be placed in pots, and should be repotted whenever the pots arc filled Avith roots. If desired, they may be grown in flats or in a cold framp TUBEROUS BEGONIAS. 107 during the summer. For the first few weeks, they should be kept in a narrow, low house, where they can be near the glass and with a temperature of sixty to sixty-five degrees. They should be shaded from the sun, and will be benefited by frequent applications of liquid manure. As the season for rest aj^proaches, they should be gradually dried off, and stored where they will be dry, in a temperature of forty-five to fifty degreeso They can be kept in any frost-proof cellar. If the air is very dry, they should be placed in a box and covered with dry soil or sphagnum, to prevent shriveling. The tubers should be started into growth in March or April. They may be placed in small pots at once, or they may be started in shallow boxes filled with sphagnum. The first pots should be but little larger than the tubers, but the i^lants should be shifted as soon as the roots show the necessity. Good results can be obtained when the final shift is into seven-inch jjots, but the best plants and largest blooms cannot be secured in less than ten- inch pots, and some go still larger. As a rule, it may be said that, for specimen j^lants (Figs. 36 and 37), the repotting should be kept up as often and as long as-the roots fill the pots fairly well, and the larger the pots that can be filled with roots, the better the results. Throughout the season, frequent applications of liquid cow manure should be made, and if it is desired to grow them in small pots, they should be top-dressed with cow manure as soon as the roots fill the pot after the last shift. During the summer, when grown in a greenhouse, they require an abundance of light and air, but the best success cannot be obtained unless draughts of air and direct sunshine are avoided. The optimum temperature for growth is about sixty-five degrees, and during the summer the air should be cooled and kept moist, by frequently wetting down the walks. For out-of-door culture, the plants should be hard- 108 GREENHOUSE MAXAGEXENT. ened in a cold frame, and should be planted out, eiiliei from flats or t'our-incli pots, as soon as clanger from frost is over. They are particularly valuable for bed- ding, as they have no insect enemies, and are not injured by heavy rains. AVhcn they begin to ripen off, they should be taken up, dried so that the soil will shake ofE^ and stored in a dry cellar. Of the named varieties, the following are recom- mended for growing in pots, by F. J. Meech & Sons, the well-known tuberous begonia specialists of Charle- voix, Mich. "Double: Glow, bright scarlet; Incendie, flaming scarlet; Triomphe de Nancy, creamy yellow; Mrs. Windsor, shell pink ; Marquis of Stafford, crim- son ; Mrs. Hall, white ; G. Bryceson, deej) salmon ; Lafayette, cinnebar scarlet (the only one of its color) ; Mrs. Cornwallis West, very free, yellow ; A. F. Barron, deep pink ; Terre de Feu, deep rose, flowers very large and heavy; Blanche Duval, creamy white, tipped blush." As the best single named sorts for bedding, Mr. Meech names: "Prince of Wales, crimson scarlet; Norma, red- dish magenta; Queen Victoria, rose; and Mrs. F. A. Willard, cream center, blush outside." There are very few sorts that succeed better as bedders than selected seedlings of good strains. THE CANNA. Although most used for out-of-door bedding pur- poses, the canna is quite largely grown by florists in the greenhouse for purposes of propagation, and as a decora- tive plant. For the former, the plants may be started in midwinter, after they have had a short rest, first dividing them so that there will be a strong bud upon each piece, by placing them in shallow beds of very rich, sandy compost, where thov can be given sixty-five to seventy degrees with a go* jottom heab. After the first THE GLOXINIA. 109 thorough watering, they will require little more until they have begun to grow, after which it should be applied liberally. As soon as the new shoots that form have developed roots, they should be carefully taken off, and either placed in other beds to still further multiply, or they may be potted off. The same thing may be done with growing plants at any time, but the most common method' is to plant in the open ground in the spring, and continue to divide the plants, as above, until the last of August, when those desired for winter propagation are taken up and planted in the greenhouse beds. This method of propagation is, of course, used only with new and high-priced kinds. Ordinarily the "roots" are stored on racks, or in trays, in some place where it is neither very moist nor so dry that they will shrivel, and where a moderate temperature can be maintained. If well dried when stored for the winter, a warm potting shed, warm and dry cellar, or the space under the benches of a warm greenhouse, if ^ut of the drip, will answer for them. For flowering in the greenhouse, dormant plants, or those at almost any period of growth, provided they have not been long in flower, may be placed in pots, tubs, or beds, and after forming roots will soon develop a number of strong shoots and sujiply an abundance of bloom. Among the best varieties for this purpose are the vvell-known Madame Crozy, Florence Vaughan, Chas. Henderson, Explorateur Crampbel, Alphonse Bouvier, Egandale, and Queen Charlotte, as well as the newer Italia, Austria and Burbank. THE GLOXINIA. {Siuningia sjjeciosa.) Gloxinias are in nearly all colors, from light rose to dark purple, and in the better strains many of them are beautifully shaded and striped. As a house plant for sum- mer blooming (Fig. 38), !.r for greenhouse decoration (Fig. 39), the gloxinias have fcAv if any superiors. They require little care, except in watering, and during the 110 GREEKHOUSE MANAGEMENT. winter they are dried off and packed away. Tliey are readily grown from seed or by means of leaf cuttings, but wlien only a few plants are required, it Avill be as well, even for the florist, to buy one-year *'dried roots." These should be potted in February or March, in three- or fonr-inch pots, according to their size, the top of the bulb being just level with the surface, and ])Iaced near the glass in a tem- perature of sixty degrees, where they will have a little bottom heat. Until the leaves start, very little water will be required, but from that time it should be gradually increased, giving the plants all they can use, as, if at any time they are allowed to wilt, the floAvcrs will be much in- riG. 38. GLOXINIA. . , r>T • • J 11 • jurcd. Gloxinias do well m a compost of two parts of rotten pasture sod and one part of well-rotted cow manure, to which enough sand is added to open up the soil. Instead of the rotten sods, equal parts of garden loam and leaf mold may be used. Thorough drainage should be given by filling the pots two-thirds full of charcoal, or broken crocks, cov- ered with a layer of sphagnum. As soon as the leaves extend beyond the edges of the pots, the plants should be shifted to the five- or six-inch size, in which they can be flowered, or sold as house plants. If designed for use as cut flowers, they can be planted out from the small pots, or the boxes, in which they may be started, either on benches in the greenhouse or in frames outside, where much less care will be required. When thus grown, they should be mulched with sphagnum. During the season of growth, every precaution should be taken that they do ?iot receive a check. IHE GLOXINIA. Ill 11^ GREEXnOUSE MANAGEMENT. While tlie atmosphere should be kept moist by syringing the walks and beiiclies, overhead watering or syringing of the plants should be avoided, as, if drops of water remain on the leaves they will be spotted, and their beauty will be marred, if they are not entirely destroyed. On warm, bright mornings a fine spray upon the leaves will soon evaporate, and, while being beneficial to the plants, will do no harm. They should, at all times, be shaded from the direct sunlight, and during the hottest part of the summer, in addition to the wash upon the glass, a lath screen, or cloth shade will be desirable. Ventilation should be given in good weather, but strong draughts of air should be avoided. When kept near the glass, and with proper atten- tion to watering and ventilating, the gloxinia has few insect enemies, but if neglected, the thrip and spider will be troublesome. The use of tobacco stems about the plants, and frequent light fumigations, will destroy the thrips, while the spiders can best be fought by reg- ulating the moisture of the air. If only a few plants are grown, the infested leaves can be sponged. Should "rust" appear upon the leaves, the diseased portions must be cut off and burned. In case it shows on the same plants a second year, it will be best to throw them away. Plants started in February should be in bloom from June or July until August and September, and a suc- cession of plants will give flowers until the chrysanthe- mums come in November. Ai^er the flowers appear, their season can be prolonged if kept in a slightly lower temperature. As soon as the flowering period is over, watering should be gradually lessened until the leaves turn yellow, when it should be discontinued. The leaves should then be cut off, and the plants in the pots laid on their sides under the benches in a warm room, or they may be shaken out and placed close FAXCY CALADIUMS. 113 together in single layers in boxes, or on shelves, where they should be barely covered with sand, and kept in a cellar, or room, where the temperature will be about fifty-five or sixty degrees. In case anyone desires to raise the "bulbs" from seed, the following brief directions may be of value : Sow the seeds in February in pans or in pots drained as above ; the soil should be the same as for the bulbs, except that no manure should be used ; cover lightly, and after syringing, shade and place in a room with a temperature of sixty-five or seventy degrees. The seeds will germinate in about two weeks, and the plants will then need careful attention to prevent damp- ing off. When large enough, they should be pricked out in flats, placed in a brisk bottom heat, and later on transferred to pots. Re-pot finally to the three-inch size, and give the same care as large plants ; by the end of July they should come into flower. When growth is over, they should be dried off and stored for winter. From a good strain of seed, one should be able to obtain a good collection of plants, but if it is desirable to propagate any particular variety, cuttings of the leaves should be taken soon after the plants finish flow- ering. If the petiole of a leaf, with the lower half of the blade attached, is set in the sand where it will have bottom heat, a bud will soon develop from which a bulb will form. FANCY CALADIUMS. The so-called fancy caladiums (Fig. 40), occupy about the same place among the summer foliage plants as the gloxinias do among the flowering ones, and much the same reasons can be given for their popularity. Most of the varieties in cultivation are from Caladium Mcolor, a native of Brazil, and they naturally require a high tem- perature for their perfect development. They are readily propagated, by removing the 8 114 GEEENHOUSE MANAGEMEKT. suckers that start out from the old tubers soon after they are brought into growth, or by cutting the tubers into pieces, on each of which there is, at least, one bud. The cuttings can be left on until they have formed roots, but will start most readily if placed, with the cut- tings made from the old tubers, in sand in a proi)agat- FXG. 40. FANCY CALAUIUM ing case, until roots have formed, wlicn they can be potted off. W]ien the period of growth begins, which is about the first of Marcli, the old bulbs can be potted off, using equal parts of rotten sods, leaf mold or peat, sand and cow manure. There will be less risk, how^ever, if, before they are potted, the bulbs are placed in sand, with hot- FANCY CALADIUMS. 115 torn heat, until the roots have started. After the bulbs are potted, they should be kept at a temperature of six- ty-five degrees, with a little bottom heat. At first, lit- tle more tban frequent syringing will be necessary, but after the leaves start the amount of water required will rapidly increase. They need partial shade, but if it is too dense, the color of the foliage will not come out well. Throughout the entire period of growth, they should not be allowed to suffer for lack of water, and the air should be kept moist by syringing. If given a mild bottom heat, growth will be hastened, and they will soon be ready for a shift. As a rule, a five- or six-inch pot will carry them through the season of growth, if free use is made of liquid manure, but some of the stronger bulbs may be grown to large specimens by potting them up to six- or seven-inch pots. If an early effect is desired, five or six of the bulbs may be placed in one large pot. Caladiums need ventilation and plenty of room. If properly hardened, they can be used in the conservatory or the sitting room, but they will not thrive with the temperature below fifty-five degrees. As the tempera- ture drops and autumn comes on, and the leaves begin to droop and die, the water should be gradually les- sened, until they are ready to be packed away for winter. This should be in some place where the temperature will not fall below fifty-five degrees. Even during the win- ter the water should not be entirely withheld, as, if kept too dry, rot at the center may ensue. Among the twelve best varieties are, Candidum, Cliantinii, Clio, Leplay, Mad. A. Bleu, Mad. Marjolin Scheffer, Meyer- beer, Mons. A. Hardy, Princess of Teck, Eeine Marie de Portugal, Eeine Victoria and Triomphe de 1' Exposition. Owing to the fact that new forms are being constantly brought from Brazil and others obtained by crossing, any list is, at best, a temporary one, CHAPTER VIT. OKCHID CULTURE. As the requirements for the successful growing of orchids become better understood, the extent to Avhich they are grown will rajiidly increase ; even now, they form a part of all large collections, and have quite an extensive sale as cut flowers. The orchids may be divided into two classes, the terrestrial and the epiphytal. To the first section belong such species as live upon, and draw their nour- ishment from, the ground. Others grow upon the trunks and branches of trees, or upon rocks. They thrive under varied conditions, some being on the branches of trees overhanging streams or pools of water, where the atmosphere is quite damp, while others cling to rocks on the mountain side. Many kinds are found only in the tops of lofty trees, and some are generally on the trunks near the ground. Orchids have also been found at altitudes as high as 14,000 feet, but the jungle seems preferred by tliem, although many forms grow at an altitude of 2000 to 8000 feet. They are widely dis- tributed through the tropics, being found in great quan- tities upon both hemispheres, and many handsome forms are found in the temperate zones. The tropical orchids abound in Venezuela, New Grenada, Peru, Central America and as far north as Mexico. In the Eastern Hemisphere, they are found in the East Indies, Australia, Ceylon and India, and they are grouped according to habitat into East Indian forms, which flourish in a night tempert^tiu'e of seveut^ ii. ORCHID CULTURE 117 to seventy-five degrees in summer, and sixty to sixty-fi\e degrees in winter, with about ten degrees higher during the day; Brazilian and Mexican forms, with a night temperature of sixty-five to seventy degrees in summer, and sixty in winter, and tlie Peruvian orchids, that do not need over fifty-five to sixty degrees at night in sum- mer, and forty-five to fifty degrees in winter; in eacli case they may be ten degrees warmer during sunny days. In our treatment of orchids, we should endeavor to provide them with surroundings similar to those that they are accustomed to, in a wild state. Many of the East Indian orchids are supplied with an abundance of moisture for a part of the year, during which they make their growth, and rest during the dry season. As they grow upon tree tops and on the sides of mountains, they ave fully exposed to all movements of the air, and from this their need of an abundance of fresh air can be readily seen. The Peruvian orchids, on the other hand, are found at high altitudes, where the climate is cool and moist, and the supply of water throughout the year is abundant. For such species, it will bo seen, it would be im- proper to provide any extended period of drouth. While some of these plants grow in the full sunlight, others are found in the dense jungles, and will not stand the full sunshine, even of our climate. The conditions under glass are, moreover, quite different from those in the open air Just above, and for most plants, it is desirable to pro- vide some way of shading them, during the summer months. For this purpose, permanent shading, using some wash for the glass, rolling blinds, canvas or net- ting, may be used. Orchids are collected and shipped to this country and Europe in large quantities, and can be purchased, while yet dormant, at comparatively low prices. Most of the importers are large growers of orchids, and, if desired, can furnish estublish^d plants, at prices rang- 118 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. ORCHID CULTUBE. 119 ing from less than one dollar for small plants of com- mon varieties, to hundreds of dollars for rare ones. If dormant plants are obtained, the dead and decay- ing portions should be cut off, and the healthy growths sponged with some insecticidal solution, to destroy the scale and other insects that may be upon them. They may then either be placed npon sphagnum in a shaded portion of the house, where they should be kept com- paratively dry until signs of growth appear, or in pots or baskets nearly filled with broken crocks, charcoal and other drainage. By the latter method, they can be watered more freely, and stronger growths can be ob- tained. As soon as the roots appear, the drainage should be covered with a mixture of fibrous peat, sphag- num, and finely -broken crocks and charcoal. With many orchids, the plan of hanging them m the house with the roots up, for two or three weeks, is an excellent one, particularly with Phalaenopsis. Vanda, Aerides and similar genera, as it lessens the chance from decay, on account of water collecting between the leaves. Nearly all orchids should be kept in the shade until they have become established. ORCHIDS FOR BEGINNERS. In making a selection of orchids, care should be taken to choose species that are easy of culture, that are quite sure to flower, and that are ornamental. If kinds can be selected that are low priced, all the better. The appended list contains sorts that fulfill these require- ments. STOVE ORCHIDS Night, summer 75°, winter 65°. Day, summer 85°,winter 75°. Calanthe Veitchii. Cypripedium villosum. Cypripedium Boxallii. Dendrobium nobile. " caudatum. " Wardianum. •' Harrisianum. Oncidiiim papilio. " Lawrencianum. Phaiaenoiisis amabilis. " Spicerianum. (Fig. 42.) Stanhopea insignia 130 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMEJST. .;^^\ 'y FIG. 42. fVPHlPKDIUM SPICKltlANUM. (Grown by Pitcher & Maiitia, Sliort Hills, N. J.) ORCHID CULTURE. 181 INTERMEDIATE ORCHIDS. Night, summer 65° to 70°, winter 55° to 60°. Day, summer 75* to 80°, -winter 65° to 70\ A'e'rides odoratum. Laelia anceps. Cattleya Gaskelliana. " purpurata. " Mossiae. Lycaste Skinneri. " Percivaliana. Pliaius grandifolius. " Trianae. (Fig. 43.) Tricliopilia suavis. Coelogyne ocellata. COOL HOUSE ORCHIDS. Night, summer 55° to 60°, winter 50°. Day, summer 65° to 70% winter 55° to 60°. Cypripedium insigne. Odontoglossum Rossii majus. Epidendrum vitellinum majus. Oncidium tigrinum. MasdevalliaLindeni(Harryana). " unguiculatum. Odontoglossum grande. Zygopetalum Mackayi. " Pescatorei. While a room is desirable for eacli group of orchids, it is not necessary, and good results can be obtained with all in one I'oom, if the East Indian and other stove forms are placed at one end, which is kejit quite warm, while the Mexican and Peruvian forms are grown at the other. Moreover, the classification is at best a provi- sional one, as some of the stove plants would thrive in an intermediate house, as would several of the cool house orchids. THE POTTIX-G OF ORCHIDS. Orchids may be grown, according to their nature, upon pieces of bark or cork, or in baskets, pans or pots. The baskets are generally made of cypress or cherry, in a square or octagonal form, or as cylinders, boats, or rafts, as shown in Fig. 44. The material is cut into strips about three-quarters of an inch square and from four inches to a foot or more in length, according to the size of the plants. Holes are bored about half an inch from the end of each stick, and galvanized or copper No. 18 122 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. ■wire is run tlirougli tliem, binding tliem firmly together. Loops are made at the upper end of these wires, to which the liandles are fastened. For growing in pots, Cypripediums (Fig. 42), Cat- ^^^t^ m 1 b . sSHnHI.' '. ■ ': ' : jttKKtk %^ ^P'"' "4^" T m ■ ''^' 1 m- i ^ i E*«A.k. Ajlm^.- ^ W-^ w- FIG. 43. CATTLEYA TRIAN>^7,. tleyas (Fig. 41), Acrides (Fig. 45), Lycaste, Oncidiums, Masdevallias, Epidendrums, L^lias, Pliala3no])sis, Van- das, Calantlies, Dendrobiums (Fig. 41), Tri- chopilias, Odontoglossums, Phaius, Ccelogynes and ORCHID CULTUEE. 123 Zygopetalnms, may be selected. Many of them do fully as well, however, iu orchid pans, and, with the exception of Cypripediums, Phaius, Lycaste, Ccelogynes, Calan- thes, Masdevallias and Zygopetalnms, which are terres- trial orchids, baskets will generally be fonnd better for them. Stanhopeas need an open pan or basket, while Cattleyas, Lselias, Phalsenopsis (Fig. 46), Vandas, Den- FIG. 44. ORCHID BASKETS. drobiums, Odontoglossoms, Epidendrums, and a few others may be grown in sphagnum, on rafts, or upon blocks of wood or cork, but they will require more atten- tion than if grown in baskets. The terrestrial forms, as enumerated above, should be grown in pots about one- third filled with broken crocks, over which a layer of sphagnum is spread; upon this the plants ai'e placed in 124 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. a mixture of equal parts of good loam, fibrous peat, chopped sphagnum, broken crocks and charcoal. Lycaste and Coelogyne are benefited by an admixture of sand, and Calanthe by chopped, sandy loam sods, while a lit- tle decomposed manure will be desirable for the others. FIG. 45. AERIDES SAVAGEANUM. The top of the soil should be a little below the. edge of the pot to aid in watering (Fig. 47, E). When epiphytal orchids, such as Laelias, Cattleyas, Phalaenopsis, Vandas, Dcndrobiums, Odontoglossums and Aerides, are grown in pots, tliey should be nearly filled with potsherds and covered with a layer of peat and sphagnum ; the plants placed upon this, with their roots covered with coarse peat and chopped sphagnum, should be held in place by pegs and stakes. If a small ORCHID CULTURE. 125 pot is inverted in the bottom of the large one, before the potsherds are put in, the drainage will be improved and will be less likely to become sour. For Vaudas, Phalsenopsis and other true epiphytes, peat is not necessary. It will generally be advisable to raise the plant two or three inches above the top of the pot (Fig. 47, A, B and D), but in covering the roots, care should be taken not to raise the sphagnum much above the base of the pseudo-bulbs, as it might both cause decay and prevent development of the flower scapes. When orchids have been freshly potted, great care is necessary in watering until roots have been devel-' oped. AYhen orchids need repotting, as much of the old material as possible should be shaken oflf, without breaking the roots, and the plants then placed in pots as before. If plants are to be grown in baskets, the size selected should be as small as can well be used, and the basket- ing should be done in the same way as the potting, using coarse potsherds and sphagnum at the bottom, and filling up with fine potsherds and chopped sphagnum. The plants should be placed upon this and the roots covered with sjihagnum. For Cattleyas, Laelias, Den- drobiums and Odontoglossums, coarse chopped peat should be added to the compost, while for Aerides, Phalasnopsis and Vandas it is not used. Many of the true epiphytal orchids, such as Vandas, Aerides and Phalsenopsis, as well as Cattleyas, Laslias, Dendrobiums, Odontoglossums and Epidendrums, may also be grown upon blocks of wood, rafts, cylinders and pieces of cork and bark, upon which they are bound with copper wire, the roots being covered with sphag- num, with which peat is mixed for the last five named. While there is much less danger from over-water- ing when these plants are upon blocks than when in baskets, it is also true that watering becomes necessary 126 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. mucli more frequently, in order to i^revent their drying out. For this reason, unless careful oversight is given the plants, the basket will be better than blocks and rafts, except, perhaps, for certain species of Epiden- Irum, Odontoglossum and Dendrobiuui. M^ >W^ R ^ JJMBy T ^BL-^ ■ Jl ^ ' ri .a ¥1 FIG. 4G. I'lIAL.ENOrsrS GRANDIFLORA. The repotting of orchids is generally done just before growth commences. It should be performed annually in the case of Calanthe and Phaius, but a toi> dressing will be all tliat most species require, until they outgrow their basket or pot. ORCHID CULTURE. 127 "WATERIXG ORCHIDS. ' When the plants are starting into growth, if the moss is kept saturated with frequent waterings, the new growths are liable to rot off, hence the moss should be FIG. 47. POTTING AND CRIBBING ORCHIDS (After R. M. Grey) The dotted Uiie upon the pots sUowji the aiuouiit of drainage used in eacii case. kept only barely moist. As the growths develop, more water can be given, and towards the last of the season there need be no limit, provided the pots and baskets are 1:^8 GREENUOUSE MANAGEMENT. properly drained. If tlie planes are upon rafts or blocks, they should be syringed two or three times a day during the summx?r, and should be occasionally soaked by being dipped in water. Plants in baskets should receive sim- ilar treatment, and whenever they are dry in the morn- ing they should be dipped. It is an excellent plan, during the bright days of summer, to close the house by the middle of the afternoon and syringe the plants with a fine rose. By wetting down the walks once or twice a day, in hot weather, a moist atmosphere can be obtained, which will be favorable to the growth of the l^lants. Hard water should not be used for orchids, and a cistern in which rain water can be caught is quite desirable. For use in winter, it is well to have a tank inside the house, so that the water will be of the same temperature as the plants. CARE DURING GROWTH. As a rule, orchids make their growth during the summer, and rest during tlie winter. When the season for growth approaches, the temperature should be raised ten degrees, and the air kept moist. Since the epiphy- tal orchids obtain most of their food from the air, through their roots, an abundant supply of moisture should be maintained in the air so long as growth is made. During the middle of the day, it is well to dry out the atmosphere and admit fresh air by ventilation, when it can be done without unduly lowering the tem- perature. TREATMENT DURING RESTING STAGE. As winter approaches, the growths will harden, and the plants enter on tlieir period of rest, during which time the temperature should be lowered about ten de- grees, and maintained at the following temperature for winter; Stove orchids, night, G5°; day, 75° to 80°. In- ORCHID CULTURE. 129 termediate house orchids, night, 55° to 60° j day, G5° to 70°. Cool house orchids teu degrees lower. During the resting stage, the Cattleyas, Laelias, Dendrobinms and similar forms, should be kept as dry as possible and not shrivel. On the other hand, several genera, such as Aerides, Vanda, Phalsenopsis and Zygo- petalum, keep up more or less growth during the winter, and should be given more water than the others and never allowed to become dry at the roots. The Dendrobiums and Calanthes of some species drop their leaves as soon as growth is over, and, in order to ripen the growth, should be placed near the glass, and kept quite dry. Although the moisture should be withheld, during the winter, the atmosphere should not be allowed to become hot and dry, and on bright days the walks and tables should be wet down. MAISTAGEMENT DURING BLOOM. There is quite a variety in the habit of bloom in orchids, as some forms like Lmlia anceps, Cattleya Tri- anm, Calanthe, Ccelogyne, Phaius and Cypri'pedium insigne bloom in December, during the resting period, while many bloom during tiie summer. When the blos- soms open, it is a good plan to remove the plants to a cooler house, as, in an atmosphere that is cool and dry, they will last much longer than in one that is hot and moist. If the drop is not more than ten degrees, no harm will be done to the plants, especially if the change is made gradually. If the blossoms are wet, in syring- ing, they soon become spotted and fade, hence no water should be allowed to fall on the flowers. From the fact that most orchids can be grown in baskets, and hang from the sash bars, where they take but little room, many florists are taking up orchid grow- ing for the sale of cut flowers, and find it very remuner- ative. 130 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. DISEASES, INSECTS AND OTHER ENEMIES. The *'rot" and "spot" are among the -worst diseases of the orchid. The former is caused by a superabundance of water at tlie roots, and the method of prevention is plain. If rot ap^^ears, the diseased portion should be cut away. Spot is most troublesome when rotting ma- nure, or similar material, is placed at the roots, although a sour compost, or overwatering, brings it on, especially if the house is kept closed. Slugs are among the worst enemies that the orcliid grower has to contend with, as they sometimes eat ofE the soft flower stalks, and destroy the points of the new roots. They can be trapped by placing sliced potatoes on the benches, and the same thing will attract snails, wood lice, and roaches, although molasses and some form of poison is used for the last two. It is always safe to place a little cotton batting around the base of the flower stalk, to protect it from its enemies. Various scale insects are also frequently trouble- some, and for these, as well as for mealy bugs, thrips, red spiders and similar insects, some insecticidal wash, as whale-oil soap, should be used. Strong tobacco water will also be quite effectual, as will fir tree oil. Kero- sene emulsion will also destroy the insects, and, if prop- erly prepared, will not injure the plants, although after a few hours it is well to wash it off. The other insects that attack orchids are the same as are troublesome to a great variety of plants, and similar remedies should be used. CHAPTER VIII. AZALEAS. {Azalea Indica.) As a rule, the azaleas used by the florist are im- ported from Europe. They are obtained in the fall, and should be potted at once and placed in a cool room, where they can be shaded for the first few days. While they should be watered sparingly at first, the frequent syringing of the plants should not be neglected. Dur- ing the winter the plants should be kept in a cool house, and will need careful attention in watering, ventilating and fumigating. The amount of heat they will require will depend upon their condition, and the time the flowers are needed; as a rule, 40 to 45 degrees at night, and ten degrees higher during the day, will be satisfac- tory. As the principal call for these plants is at Easter, most of them should be brought into flower at that time, but by taking a little pains to accelerate some plants and retard others, their development will be so distributed that they can be had in bloom for several months. While in flower, if in a cool house they will last longer. After flowering, they should not be neglected, as, if they are not given proper attention at this time, they will not make a satisfactory growth, and flower buds will not be formed. They should be kept in a partially shaded house until the middle oY last of May, when,, if settled weather has come, they should be plunged in some par- tially protected, but unshaded, place in light, well- drained soil. Marsh hay, or some similar material, will be desirable as a mulch to keep the roots cool and, unless they have been repotted, a thin covering of rotted 131 132 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. manure will be of advantage. Frequent Avatering and syringing will be necessary, but v/hile they should not be allowed to get dry at the roots, care should be taken not to give them an excess of water, since, plunged as they are, it might be fatal to them. Good results can also be obtained in a well-ventilated and partially shaded greenhouse. For the use of the florist, at least one-half of the plants should be Avhite and the others mostly pink or FIG. 48. AZALEA IN COMPACT FORM. salmon, although a few scarlet and variegated ones will be valuable in the collection. Deutsche Perle is one of tiie best early whites, and Bernhard Andrea alba will also be satisfactory. Vervasneana, Imporatrice des Indes and Simon Mardner are among the best pink and rose sorts, while Cocarde Orange, scarlet, and Mme. Camille Van Langhenhove, variegated, have shown up well. Aza- HYDRANGEAS. 133 leas succeed well in a soil composed of one part each of fibrous peat, rotten peat and garden loam, with the addi- tion of sand in proportion to the character of the soil. In Fig. 48 is shown a well-grown azalea, with a compact head, while Fig. 49 shows a more open form, which would be preferred by many. The principal enemies of the azalea are the red spider and thrip, for which reme- dies are given elsewhere, together with descriptions of the insects themselves. HYDRANGEAS. As a house plant, or for the florist, to be used for purposes of decoration, the hydrangea is always desir- able. Coming as it does at Easter, it can be used to good advantage for decoration, or in baskets or designs of cut flowers, and tlie sale of plants in five-, six-, or seven-inch pots is generally large, and at remunerative prices. As a rule, there will be a demand for the plants as late as May or June, which will enable the florist to clean out the plants that were late in coming into bloom. It is well to have the plants out of the way as early as possible, in order to make room for other plants. .Hydrangeas are readily propagated from half-hard cuttings, struck at any time from February to June ; for Easter sales they should be in the cutting bed as early as March. After being potted off they can be handled in various ways, that requiring least care being to plant them out as soon as the weather permits, in the open ground, where they should be mulched and watered if the season is dry. To secure bushy plants, they should be headed back, and the branches pinched once ; late pinching will destroy the flower buds which should form the first season. As autumn approaches, they ihould be taken up and potted, using pots of generous size. To ripen the wood, they should be ])laced in cold frames, where they should have abundant ventilation. 134 GREENHOUSE MAXAGEMEXT. the glass oeing removed on l)riglit days. Thorough ripening is necessary, if the best results are desired. When the weather gets cold, tliey should be phiced in a cool greenhouse, or should be packed away in a cool pit, where they should be kept in a dormant condition until January. About twelve weeks will be required to bring them into flower, and the time of starting them will depend upon the date at which Easter, or any othei FIG. 49. AZALEA WITH AN OPKX HKAU. occasion for which they are desired, comes. At first, they should be given 50 to 55 degrees at night; this may soon be raised to 60 or 65 degrees, and even 70 degrees may be given, if necessary, in order to bring them into bloom in time. After they are thoroughly started, the plants will nse a large amount of water and should not be stinted. When they have filled the pots with roots, they should receive li({uid manure two or three times a week and a top-dressing of half an inch of well-rotted HYDRANGEAS. 135 manure will be of advantage to the plants. At no time during their growth should they be crowded as, for the best development, they need an abundance of room. In order to form a symmetrical plant, the branches should be staked, and if the shoots are too thick the weaker ones should be removed. In order to harden the plants, as soon as the flowers have expanded, they PIG. 50. HYDRANGEA OTAKSA. should be given a lower temperature and an abundance of air. Another method is to grow the plants in pots, plunged in the ground out of doors. Here they will require the same care as when planted in the ground, except that more attention to watering them should be given. By July they should be large enough to be shifted I3G GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. to six-inch pots, and should then he headed hack, their final pinching heing given in August. The cuttings made as lute as June are hest grown in a cool honse, daring the summer, either in pots or planted in the beds. If large specimen plants are desired, they can be obtained by cutting back the old plants after flowering, and growing them another year. The best varieties are Hydrangea rosea, Otaksa (Fig. 50), and Thos. Hogg. A red-branched variety is also quite popular as a house plant, but it does not force as well as the others. The Eosea is the earliest to flower, and is generally of a clear pink, although, like all of the others, its color is variable. Otaksa, with flesh colored flowers, is, perhaps, most grown by florists, as it is most in demand as a house plant. The Thos. Hogg is a white variety, and is especially desirable for Easter decora- tions. By the use of iron filings in the soil, or by a{)ply- ing alum water, the flowers of this variety, and of Otaksa, take on a light blue color. Peat or soil con- taining iron, will have the same effect. If hydrangeas are kept dormant nntil March or April, they will come into flower in May or June, and will make excellent plants for the porch or veranda, and in tubs or vases can be used with good efi'ect upon the lawn. CYTisrs (Genista). Although this maybe classed among the old-fashioned flowers, it is one of the most useful to the florist and IS one of the best spring-blooming house plants. Cytisus ( Genista) Canariensis has, in the past, been most commonly grown by florists, but C. racemosus is now taking its place; by some it is regarded as a distinct species, but it is quite likely only a garden variety. It difl^ers from C. Canariensis in having longer and pointed leaflets and a longer raceme of larger flowers. Either form is readily propagated from cuttings CTTISUS. 137 taken off in February or March. They need only ordi- nary care, but should be kept in growth during the sum- mer. Tliey may be planted in the open ground in May and left there until September, when they should be taken up and potted, or they may be placed in four-inch FIG. 51. CYTISUS. pots and plunged. They may also be grown in a cool, well-ventilated greenhouse and should in any case be large enough to go into five- or six-inch pots by Septem- ber. They naturally branch, but they can be thickened up by pinching them in once or twice. Some florists 138 GKEENHOUSE MAN"AGEMENT. even use sheep shears in cutting them back and thus jn'o- duce a dense head. If desired in a standard form, they can be so grown hj selecting a strong plant, and train- ing it to a single stem to tlie bight desired and rnbbing off all side shoots. It is then topped and a head formed. Dnring the winter the plants are allowed to rest at a temperature of 45 or 50 degrees, until within seven or eight weeks of the time the flowers are desired, after which they will need 60 or 65 degrees. With proper handling, a plant can be kept in flower for two to fonr weeks, and a succession of bloom can be secured for six weeks or two months. After flowering, they should be given a partial rest for two or three months, when they should be repotted, and plunged out of doors. The after-treatment is the same as for small plants. An average sized potted plant is shown in Fig. 51. ARDisiA [Ardisia cremilata). Tliis plant adds to an attractiveness in leaf and flower, that of showy red berries, whicli often hang on for a twelve-month. While it can be grown from half- hard cuttings dnring the summer, the use of seed is more simple and gives better plants. These should be sown in an open, sandy soil, and if phiced in a stove temperature Avith a strong bottom heat, should germi- nate in two weeks. Although the seeds germinate thus readily, the seedlings are somewhat difficult to start into growth. The stronger ones should be potted off and kept rather close until they have become established. They should be kept growing until in four- or five-inch pots, and, as soon as these are filled, liquid manure should be given until the blossoms form. To aid them in set- ting their fruit, they shonld be kept in a rather dry atmosphere and near the glass. If, after the fruits have set, they are kept at 45 or 50 degrees, they will last much longer. During their growth, they do best if kept GARDENIA. 139 at a stove temperature during the summer, after which they will be best at 50 to 55 degrees until the period of growth begins in February, when the temperature should be raised. When the plants lose their lower leaves, if rested and then cut back and repotted, a new head can be formed. Young plants are, however, most satisfactory. The thick, waxy leaves of the Ardisia render it little subject to insect attacks, although the scale and mealy bug are sometimes troublesome; they readily yield, how- ever, to the usual remedies. THE GARDENIA {Gardenia floHda). When grown in a warm, moist atmosi)here, and kept free from scale,' mealy bugs and other insects, this plant, with its profusion of white, waxy flowers, with their unequalled fragrance, and shining, gi-een leaves, is certainly worthy of admiration. It is readily propagated from half-hard cuttings under a handglass, or in a propa- gating case, with strong bottom heat. The rooted cut- tings should be potted in fibrous, sandy soil, and should be gradually hardened, but to avoid a check they should be kept at a stove temperature with bottom heat. They like a peaty, fibrous soil with an admixture of sand, and, with proper attention in the way of watering and repot- ting,' cuttings struck in the early winter will make sti-ong plants in one season. During their growth, the water supply should not be stinted, and frequent spray- ings should be given. When the growth is completed, they should be allowed to ripen their wood, and then receive a partial rest by restricting their heat and mois- ture. Young plants, at most two years old, should be used, and it will not pay to at':empt to recuperate a stunted plant. Gardenias are quite subject to the attack of some of the more common greenhouse insects, such as the red spider and scale, but with proper care they will 140 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. not "be troublesome. If tliey make tlieir appearance tlie ordinary remedies can bo used. THE FORCING OF HARDY PLANTS. Although this is a comparatively new industry, it is worthy the attention of every retail florist, as tbe flowers from many of the hardy plants have much merit for cutting, in themselves, and, what is of fully as much importance, they arc a new thing and out of season, and FORCING OF HARDY PLAINTS. 141 are likely to be much sought after, if properly brought to the attention of the public. A considerable number of the hardy shrubs are well adapted for forcing, but the best results will be obtained from those that naturally flower outside previous to the first of June, We should also select well-grown plants, that have been prepared for the purpose, and be sure that they have a resting period of at least two or three months, before they are brought into heat. Deuizia gracilis and D. scahra were among the first to be forced, and are well adapted for it. The various kinds of lilac, [Syr'inga vulgaris and its varieties, also S. Persica) Fig. 52, force readily. The many varieties of mock orange {Pldladelplius coronarius) are also easily forced, as are the snowball ( Vibur7ium Opulns sterilis) and V. pUca- tum. Spirwa Van Houttii and Exocliorda grandifiora give good results, but they should be kept cool and forced slowly. Among the other plants adapted for forcing are Azalea mollis, Kalmia glaiica and K. latifolia (Fig. hV), Daphne Cneorum and Andromeda speciosa and. A. Jloribunda. The plants may be cheaply imported from Europe, all prepared for forcing, or they may be grown by the florists. "Whether tlie small plants are propagated, or purchased from some nurseryman, they should be planted out in nursery rows and grown for two or three years. In order to secure a mass of fibrous roots that will favor their growth in pots, they shcnild be trans- planted each year. When strong enough for forcing, they should be dug as soon as the leaves drop in the fall, and potted off, using a liglit, but rich compost. Wet down thoroughly and set in some sheltered place until there is danger of the cracking of the pots by frost, when they should be removed to a deep, cold pit. Here they will require no care, except an occasional watering if they become dry, and airing on warm, or bright, days. 142 GKEEl^rHOrSE MANAGEMENT. About Christmas, the first batch can be started, and others may follow at intervals. Place at first in a cool greenhouse and gradually increase the temperature until it is 60 degrees, at which time the growth should be started. The development of the buds can be aided if FIG. 53. KALMIA LATIFOLTA. the shrubs are frequently sprinkled. The care needed by these jjlants is about the same as that recpiired for other plants under similar conditions. While most of tiie herbaceous plants will have little value for forcing after the first season, many of the CALCEOLAKIAS. 143 deciduous shrubs can be used more than once. After flowering, they should be removed to a cool room and from there to a cold pit, from which they should be planted again in nursery rows, and in two years can again be used for forcing. CHAPTER IX. CALCEOLARIAS. The public is beginning to appreciate the value of calceolarias as spring-blooming pot plants. They are very interesting in their structure and striking in their general appearance (Fig. 54). For early planting, the seeds, which should be of some choice strain, are sown as early as the middle of June, but for April flowering, during which month they should be in their prime, reliance should be had on July-sown seed, while to secure a later succession another batch should be put in some time in August. The seed should be sown in shallow pans upon a light compost, with a slight covering of sifted soil, and placed in a cool house, or, better, a frame, which should be well ventilated and shaded. If the frame is in a sheltered spot, faced to the North, and a lath screen is used in addition to a shaded sash, which is raised a few inches above the frame, we have given the seeds and future plants as nearly perfect surroundings, during a hot, dry summer, as can be secured. As soon as large enough, the seedlings should be pricked out into flats, and later into two- and three-inch pots, using a rich, fibrous compost composed of equal parts of rotted sods, loam, decayed manure and sand. Leaf mold can be added to advantage for the small plants. The plants should be 144 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. returned to the frame and kept there until November ; they will need copious watering, on which account per- fect drainage is necessary. The leaves should be kept as FIG. 54. SPKCIMEN CALCEOLARIA. dry as possible, except that they should have a gentlo syringing on warm, sunny mornings. The green fly must he kept down at all hazards, as, if it gets the start, it will be hard to control ; to aid in this, chopped tobacco stems may be scattered between CALCEOLARIAS. 145 the pots, both in the frame find in the house. As soon as the phmts begin to be pot-bonnd, shift into four-inch pots and later into five- and six-inch. They sho^^ld be removed into a cool greenhouse, where they can be kept at about 40 degrees, as soon as there is danger of frost working into the frame, which should be covered upon cold nights with mats, during tlie last month. Keep the FIG. 55. CINERARIA HYBRIDA. plants near the glass, but shade from the direct sun- light. The early started plants should be established in their flowering pots by the first of December, and should be in flower soon after New Year's. During the winter, give ventilation even on cold days, and give attention to the watering, so that the plants can by no chance 10 14G GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. become dry. Keep the moisture off the leaves as much as i^ossible. As soon as the roots fill the pots after the final shift, supply manure water liberally, but discon- tinue its use when the flowers begin to open. In addition to the plentiful use of tobacco stems upon the greenhouse benches, to keep the aphis in check, frequent light fumigations should be given. To avoid disease, keep the leaves dry, and at once remove and destroy all diseased and decaying leaves. With careful management, the greenhouse can be kept in a blaze of color from January until the middle of May, and florists will find a growing demand for cal- ceolarias as house plants. CINERARIAS. The greenhouse cineraria occupies about the same place, both in the conservatory and the house, as the calceolaria, and it flowers at about the same time. The single forms are of little value for cut flowers, but some of the double kinds may become useful. The cineraria is even more injured than the calceolaria by a hot, dry air, and a slight frost that might not affect the calceo- laria would prove very injurious, if not fatal, to it. Like that plant, its greatest enemy is the green fly, but the principal reliance must be placed on the chopped tobacco stems, or the vapor from tobacco tea, or extract, ds tobacco smoke, unless in a mild form, affects the foliage. Unlike the calceolaria, the cineraria delights in water upon its leaves and on every bright morning, even in winter, the plants should be syringed. In a general way, its care is the same as given for the calceolaria, and may be briefly stated as follows : Sow the seeds in shallow pans, from June to August ; prick out the young plants in flats or pots, and later transfer to three-inch pots, repotting, before growth is checked, into five- or six-inch pots. Sometimes they can CIN"ERARIAS. 147 be made to fill even larger sizes. The soil should be of a rich, liglit compost, with an increased amount of manure for the older j)lants. Cinerarias should be kept in a well-shaded frame or cool house from the time the seed is sown until October, when they should be placed where they can be kept at 45 degrees at. night. The plants, when in large pots, should have liquid manure FIG. 56. SINGLE CHINESE I'KlIMKuSE. once or twice a week. By careful attention to the time of sowing the seed and to the forwarding of the plants, constant bloom can be secured through the winter and spring. While the method will not be much used in practice, a promising plant can be perpetuated by taking off and rooting the suckers that form after the flowers fade. A well-grown specimen plant is seen in Fig. 55. 148 GREENHOUSE MA2S"AGEMEJfT. PRIMULAS. Although more modest in their ai^pearance than the showy calceolaria and cineraria, the i^rimula (Fig. 5G) has been and still is a more general favorite. The sorts that are most commonly grown are the single and double forms of the Chinese primi-ose {Primula Smensis). The sin- gle primulas may be divided into two classes, the fimbri- ated and the fern-leaved, each of which lias flowers in two colors, white and rose. They are grown from seed from May to July, iYi well-drained seed pans. The soil should be light and fibrous, and the covering sliould be light and evenly distributed. If the soil is well mois- tened before the seeds are sown, a glass laid over the pans will hold the moisture so that but little more need be .ajiplied, if they are placed in a cool, shaded frame. The seedlings should be pricked out into pans or fiats, which should be well drained, and the transfer to pots and tlie repotting should be the same as for cinerarias ; as a rule, however, the plants can fiower in five-inch pots. After they get to growing, they should bo well watered and the foliage should be wet down occasionally on bright mornings during the summer; after winter comes on, the leaves should be kept rather dry. After the middle of September, the plants should be grown in the house at an average temperature at night of 50 degrees. As with the other plants of this kind, liquid manure should be applied as soon as they have filled the pots, after the last shift. Primulas should be kept near the glass, and, although they like a certain amount of sunlight, they require partial shade, during the heat of the day in sum- mer, from its full intensity. It is well to pinch the flower buds from young plants, as it checks the growth of the plants if they are allowed to develop. In potting the primulas, care should be taken not to press the soil too firmly, as it would obstruct the free j)assage of the MIGNONETTE. 140 water. In repotting, while it is advisable to keep the lower leaves well down ujion the soil, the crown should not be covered. The double primulas are increased by division. After flowerijig, the leaves are removed from the lower portion of the stems and moist sphagnum is packed around them. If. placed in a frame, and kept rather cool and moist for a couple of weeks, roots will form and the branches can be taken off and repotted. For a few days, until they become established, they should be kept rather close, after which they should be gradually hardened. The plants require about the same care as the single sorts, except that as they are forced for their flowers, a somewhat higher temperature should be given them. Another species of primula, P. dbconica, has for several years been considerably grown, but has now nearly gone out of use, from the fact that it is poisonous to many persons; but for this, it is a desirable plant, as it is multiplied readily, either by division, or seeds, and furnishes its delicate pinkish-white flowers in profusion. Although it is easier to keep the aphis in check upon primulas than on either cinerarias or calceolarias, as they admit of fumigation, it is always well to keep the benches strewn with tobacco stems as a precaution. MIGNONETTE. Few plants can be grown with as little care and attention, and yet the number of florists who reach the highest success with mignonette is comparatively small. A narrow, span-roof house, with a solid bench on either side of the walk, seems best adapted to this crop. Thorough drainage should be secured, and in no way can it be obtained more readily than by placing drain tile across the beds, about fifteen inches below the sur- face. They will have a marked effect if placed twelve 150 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. to twenty-fonr, or eyen as mncli as tliirty-six, inches apart, but a closer arrangement will be better. The soil for the plants should be not less than fif- teen inches deep and many of the best growers prefer eighteen or twenty. Its composition may vary consid- erably, but a preparation of four parts well-rotted sods, four parts of garden loam and one part of decomposed manure is desirable. In filling the beds with this amount of soil, more than usual care is necessary that it be well pressed down and compacted. If the compost is coarse, a fine seed bed can be obtained by spreading sifted soil over the bed to the depth of an inch. The bed should be sown before it has time to dry out, the usual date being about the first of August, or a little earlier in some cases, in drills fifteen inches apart, cov- ering with sifted soil to the depth of three-eighths of an inch. It is a good plan to scatter sand in the drills in which the seeds are to be sown, and to use the same material for covering them. The bed should now be thoroughly watered, and from this time it should not be allowed to become dry. The use of cloth or lath screens, until the plants have appeared, is desirable, after which they should be removed. The ventilation should be ample, preferably from the ridge, and air should be given at all times, as the plants, at this jieriod of their growth, should be kept cool. Good results can also be obtained in shallow beds, by placing an inch of cow manure in the bottom and filling up with three or four inches of rich but light compost. When the true leaves appear, the plants should be thinned so that they will stand at least twelve inches apart in the rows. In about two months the flowers will form, and if large spikes are desired the laterals that form on the leading shoots should be removed. This should also be done with the shoots that appear later on, as fine spikes can only be secured when disbudding is MIGNOXETTE. 151 FIG. 57. JIACHJIT MIGNONETTE. 152 GREENUOUSE MAN'AGEMEifT. carefully done. A night temjjerature of ,45 degrees is generally considered u maximum for the mignonette and 40 degrees is preferred by many ; during the day the ventilation should be such as will keep the temperature as near 58 degrees as possible. In caring for this crop, the well-known grower, Mr. J. N. Ma^^ of Summit, N. J., uses fine brush stuck into the soil around the plants to supjiort the spikes, and this seems as good as any other way of trellisiug, although a desirable method is shown in Fig. 57. Where the caterpillars are troublesome, the method used by Mr. May to keep out the moths will be desira- ble ; it consists in covering all openings with mosqui-to netting. The use of hellebore, slug shot, or of Paris green, either in water or plaster, in a very dilute form, will also be a sure remedy. The most destructive dis- ease of this crop is described and figured in Chapter XXV. The seed ordinarily sold is very uneven and much of it will give worthless plants. It is always desirable, after securing a good strain of mignonette, to select seed for future use from the plants that are nearest to per- fection. In this way the type will be fixed and an improved strain for forcing Avill be secured. The variety known as Machet (Fig. 57) is one of the best for forcing; it has a strong stem, dark green, healthy foliage, and the spike is large and fragrant. Miles Spiral is ji referred by some. Some growers have had good success with pot cul- ture. The seeds are sown in flats or beds, and the seed- lings pricked out into two-inch pots. When large enough to repot, they are transferred to four-inch pots, using very rich soil. They, of course, will need to be staked and tied and should receive the same care as when OTOwn in beds. CHAPTER X. PERNS. For greenhouse or house decoration, or for supply- ing florists with "green," ferns, and Adiantums in par- ticular, are very useful. While many sjjecies are easiest propagated by the division of the plants, others are com- monly grown from spores, which should be sown at once, although the spores from some species can be kept for some time. They should be sown either in pans or pots, or on beds, using garden loam, over which half an inch of fine sphagnum should be placed. Moisten this thoroughly and scatter the spores evenly over it, and after sprinkling cover with glass. Water only when they show they are dry. Keep covered until the seedlings have started. It will be best to prick out the young seedlings into flats, from which they should later be transferred to pots. Pot them in soil one-half leaf mold and the remainder of loam and sand. For propa- gating on a large scale, a box covered with a glass sash, of suitable size, will answer. The seed bed can be pre- pared upon the bench itself. Ferns for dwellings should be grown at 55 to 60 degrees, as they will then be firm and well hardened, and will thrive far better than soft, spindling plants, in the dry atmosphere of the living room. For small fern pans, two or three plants will be enough. Fern pans can be filled to advantage by using some erect growing kind in the center, with fine Adian- tums, Selaginellas or similar kinds, around it. Many varieties are readily increased by dividing the crowns. To increase them rapidly, they should be bedded out where they can be kept well moistened at a 153 154 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMEJST. temperature of 60 to 65 degrees. In dividing and transferring to pots, it is hardly desirable to make a very fine division, as, although more plants can be obtained, they will be slower in starting and less satisfactory. During the spring and early summer, the young plants should be kept in a cool house or in a frame, whe'-e they can be properly shaded and watered. If to be used for cutting, the best results can be obtained if the plants are bedded out. This should be done early in August, in order that the plants may have time to develop and harden off. The beds should con- tain from four to five inches of compost, consisting of two parts i)asture sods and one part each of sand and rotten manure. For most ferns a temperature of 60 to 65 degrees is desirable, and the stove ferns are benefited il it is slightly higher, although some of the greenhouse species do well if it is considerably lower. For the florist's use, in addition to the well-known AcUantum ctmeatnm and gracillimum, such others as A. elegans, A. Capillus- Veneris, A. concinnKm nud A. c. latnm, A. St. Caiherina and A. decorum will bo useful. Adiantum Farleyense (Fig. 58) is among the best of the Adiantums for decorative purposes, but except for very elaborate cut-flower work, it will be less useful than some of the more delicate sorts. The Pteris serrulata and P. s. cristata, and other forms that are readily grown, are also desirable for planting out, either on or under the benches, while Pterin tremula, and its varie- gated form, P. argijrea, and P. cretica alba lineata should not be neglected. When ferns are shifted, or planted out, they should be shaded from the bright sun for several days, and the foliage should be frequently syringed. If to be used for cutting, after they have made their growth, the shading should be taken off, and abundant ventilation should be given, in order that the fronds may harden off, and thus 155 stand up longer when used. The florist will find spec- imen plants, and baskets and pans of ferns useful in dec- orating his house, as well as for outside work. If well- grown and of well selected kinds, the visi':or will be attracted to them, and they will have a ready sale. For large conservatories the large tree ferns are quite desirable.. While the Dichsonia, Cyuthea, and 156 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. other similar forms, grow very slowly, and, as a result, are imported in a dormant condition, at a large expense, the Alsojjhila Australis is quite rapid in its growth and is readily i)ropagated from spores. Ferns tlirive in a moist atmosphere, but while they need a steady supply of moisture at their roots, an excess is sure to bring serious conseqnences. The thrip and scale are among the worst insect enemies of ferns. For ^ftTT^- / ,,=3^"^ FIG. 59. BOSTON FERN (NEPHROLEPI8 EXALTATA B09T0NIENSIS). the former, the frequent spraying of the plants with tobacco decoction will be found useful, or moderate fumigation may be employed upon the stronger kinds. The scale insects are most likely to make their appear- ance on plants that have been neglected, and if they appear the ]ilants should be dipped or s])rayed with ker- osene emulsion, or fir tree oil, and i-eceive better atten- tion in the future. Ferns, as a rule, do not thrive as house plants, but for this purpose, the sword fern {JVephroIejjis exaltata) SMILAX. 157 is one of tlie best, as it can stand a dry room better than most of them. A variety of tlie sword fern to which the name of iV". exaltata Bostoniensis (Fig. 59) has been given, has been recently introduced. It has a graceful drooping habit and seems well adapted to house culture. Of the more delicate and yet easily grown kinds are Davallia Fijiensis, Onychium Japonicum, Microlepia Mrta cristata and the Gymnogrammes (gold and silver ferns). SMILAX. This for many years has been, and, in fact, it is yet, one of the most commonly grown and the most useful of the plants used by the florist as ''green." It is readily grown from seed, which should be sown any time from January to March, after soaking it for twenty-fours in warm water. The seedlings should be potted off, and as soon as they fill the thumb pot they should be shifted to the three-inch size. With proper care, they should be ready to plant out by June or July. While deep, raised beds are often used for growing smihix, less constant attention to watering will be required if it is grown in solid beds. In the first case, five or six inches of rich compost will be required, while for the latter it should be at least eight inches deep. It is desirable that there should be ten or twelve inches between the rows, and six or seven between the plants. For the training of the smilax. No. 14 galvanized wire should be stretched in two lines above each row, one line being near the bed and. the other from six to ten feet higher. The green twine, thread, silkalene, or other material, used for training the smilax, should be fastened to these wires above and below. ' As the shoots start into growth, they should be trained up the proper strings, and they will need frequent attention that none of them get astray. Watering should, of course, not be neglected, and on 158 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. bright days syringing will be helpful. After the first crop is off, an applicatioa of manure may be made to the surface of the bed, or reliance may be had on liquid manure. While the principal call for smilax is at Christmas and Easter, it is needed at all times during the year, and a supply should always be kept on hand. Many growers throw out their smilax beds at the end of each year, but unless they have been unduly forced, good results can be obtained from them for several years. If to be retained, they should be dried off and kept dor- mant for two or three months in the summer, and before they are brought into growth again the surface soil should be removed and replaced with a rich compost. If dried off in the early sprino-, a bench can be erectec over the bed for bedding or other plants. Smilax, to be well grown, should have a night tem- perature of 60 degrees, with the usual increase durmg the day. .As with ferns, after the growth has been made, if it is hardened by gradually increasing the amount of ventilation, smilax will keep longer after it is cut. Under the best conditions, a crop can be secured by November, and two others can be taken off during the season, but, as a rule, two crops are all that can be cut. ASPARAGUS. This valuable climber was slow m coming into favor with the public, partly because it was by many associa- ted with the vegetable of the same name, but it now seems to have come to stay. In a general way, its culti- vation is about the same as has been given for smilax, from which it differs principally in its method of propa- gation. Asparagus is best propagated from cuttings of the young stems. If made in May and rooted under a hand glass, or in a propagating case, they will be strong ASPARAGUS. 159 FIG. 60. ASPARAGUS SPKENGEBI. 160 GREENnOUSE MAXAGEMENT. enough to give a fair crop the second year. A more common method is by tlie division of the old phmts, and, after jiotting them off in light soil, plunging in a mild bottom heat. Strong plants should be set preferably in solid, although they will do fairly well in deep, raised beds, about ten or twelve inches apart; if planted closer than this, every other plant should be removed after the sec- ond year. If well grown, from three to five strong shoots should be obtained from each plant. Asparagus is forced for several seasons, being best from the second to the fourth year. During the summer, it should be dried off, from June until August, and treated the same as smilax. The species most commonly grown is Asparagus plumofT, MASS. . PREPAEATION AND CARE OF BEDS. 191 if three or four inches of the sni-face soil are removed, and the benches iilled up with fresh manure, which should be thoroughly worked into the soil. The best compost for lettuce growing is made by mixing one part of fresh horse manure with two parts of rich, sandy loam. If this can be prepared in June, and worked over in Au- gust, it will be in good condition to use by the time it is Avanted in September. The raised beds will need about five or six inches of soil, and after each crop has been taken off, it will be well to add about an inch of thor- oughly decomposed horse manure. The soil in the solid beds should be ten inches deep, and. should also be top-dressed as above. After setting the plants, the beds should be thor- oughly wet down, but while the plants are small care should be taken not to saturate the beds, particularly during dull weather in the winter. On sunny days the plants may be syringed in the morning, but if they are syringed in dull weather, or at the edge of evening, it is likely to invite the development of mildew and rot. As soon as growth starts, the bed should be worked over with a hand weeder, and this should be repeated once in two weeks, until the plants cover the bed (Fig. 73). The temperature of lettuce houses should be kept below 50 degrees at night and in dull weather, while 45 degrees is high enough for the cabbage sorts at night. The houses should be kept well ventilated, using the sash that opens opposite to the direction of the prevailing wind, whenever this is possible. Keep coolest just after planting and when they begin to form heads. The most troublesome insect pest in lettuce grow- ing is the green fly or aphis, but this can be kept in check, if taken in time, by the use of tobacco stems. It is well to cut them up by passing them through a hay- cutter or coarse sieve, and then scatter the pieces over the beds. The stems themselves can be used in the 102 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. same way and will tend to keep the fly in checlc. As soon as the presence of green fly can be detected, the house should be fllled witli tobacco smoke. This should be repeated at the end of two or three days, and, if in-operly done, the aphides Avill be destroyed. As the insects develop, the tobacco smoke does not seem powerful enough to destroy them, and if for any reason fumigation has been neglected too long to be effective, resort must be had to some other insecticide. A strong decoction of tobacco stems and tobacco exti-act will destroy them, while pyrethrum or buhach seems quite effectual as a remedy against adult aphides, and may be put on as a dry powder with a bellows, or in water with a syringe, using at the rate of a tablespoon- ful to a gallon. When the houses are large, a small spraying pump will be convenient for applying these and similar insecticides. When given proper conditions, the beds planted the first of October can be cut for Thanksgiving purposes, and can be cleaned out ready to be reset by the first of December. The n»xt crop will develop by the first of February, and the third crop will be off by the first of April. Under especially favorable conditions, two or three weeks can be gained upon this, which will allow a fourth crop to be taken off by the middle of April. About two months should be allowed for growing the plants after sowing the seed, and seven or eight weeks more for the growth of the heads after planting out. This will he none too much during the cloudy and short days of November and December, but as the sun gets higher in February and March, six weeks will gen- erally suffice. In marketing lettuce, the heads are placed verti- cally in baskets or boxes (Fig. 73) when supplied to the local trade, or in barrels for distant shipment. It is best to pack the cabbage sorts with the stems up, while PREPARATIOif AND CAEE OP BEDS. 193 194 GREEXHOUSE MANAGEMENT. the Grand Rtipids and similar sorts are laid on tlieir sides with the butts ovcr]a})ping. Ventilate in warm weather, and line the barrels with newspapers in winter. Cover the top of the barrel with burlap. As indicated on a [)revious page, the Grand Eapids is one of the best varieties for fci-cing purposes, while Boston Market, Hot House and Belmont are the best of the cabbage varieties. ELECTRO CULTURE OF LETTUCE. Some eight or ten years ago Mr. W. W. Kawson of Arlington, Mass., noticed that lettuce seemed to be ben- efited by the light from the electric street lamps, and to test its efficacy he placed a 2000 candle power arc lamp over one house, and ten 30 candle power lamps inside another house, with the effect of hastening the maturity of the crop fully five days, which would make a saving of fifteen days for three crops. Mr. Rawson is so convinced of the value of the electric light that he now has three 2000 candle power lights over one of his houses, and finds himself repaid three-fold by the effect on the crop. These results induced Prof. Bailey to make various tests at the Cornell Experiment Station of the efficacy of the electric light upon the growth of different plants. After several years' trial, he finds decidedly beneficial effects from the electric light upon large lettuce plants, and that the maturity of the crop may be hastened at least one week. The lights we're not run more than five hours a night. The results obtained by Prof. Bailey agree quite closely with the conclusions of various French investigators. It was found that naked lights inside the house injured most plants, but when opal globes were used the effect was quite beneficial in the case of let- tuce. When the light enclosed in an opal globe was hung outside, about six- feet above the glass, the best LETTUCE IN" HOTBEDS. 195 results were obtained. Even when forty feet away, the plants were noticeably benefited, except those newly transplanted, which were injured. Eadishes, beets and spinach were also benefited when the lights were placed, outside the houses, although the naked light inside the house was detrimental to their growth. It has not been determined whether ihe effect of the light is in increasing the hours of growth, or in hasten- ing the rapidity at which they grow during the custom- ary period. The effect upon tomatoes and cucumbers is, if anything, injurious, and Mr. E. A. Lorentz of Orange County, New York, reports tliat with a street light 335 feet from the house, and running eyery night, all night, radishes were induced to run to seed, and the same effect would have been produced upon the spinach had it been given time. Upon lettuce, however, the effect was ben- eficial, and the crop was marketed, two weeks earlier than that grown in another house, not exposed to the light. LETTUCE IN" HOTBEDS. When one has a forcing house, or can afford to build one, it does not pay to grow lettuce in hotbeds in the Northern States earlier than the fifteenth of February or the first of March. If one has no forcing house, or other place for starting the plants, a small hotbed can be made for growing them as early as the middle of Jan- uary, and. they will be large enough to transplant by the middle of February. If they are put in tliickly at first, and again thinned out, as recommended for growing them in forcing houses, a large number of plants can be started in a small bed, and besides saving labor in caring for the large beds, it will admit of giving the plants a fresh bed Avhen finally transplanted. Hotbeds can be used to good advantage in connec- tion with a greenhouse, as seeds planted about the first of February will form plants large enough to place in the 196 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. hotbeds by the fifteenth to the twenty-fifth of February, and will be ready for market as soon as the third crop has been cut from the liousc. By sowing seed at inter- vals of three or four weeks, a succession can be obtained from hotbeds and cold frames until field-grown crops mature. When there is a demand for lettuce during November, it can be grown in cold frames at a low cost, and if they are deep and are well covered on cold nights, it can be carried until Thanksgiving. For hotbed and cold frame uses, the forcing house sorts answer very well, and such varieties as Chicago Market, Denver Market, and Black Seeded Simpson, will also be found desirable. CONDITIONS FOR SUCCESS. The principal reason why the lettuce specialists have such remarJvable success is that every detail of handling the crop is projierly attended to. As of prime importance we consider (1), the char- acter of the soil. This should be of a sandy nature, with less than five per cent of clay. If the clay is present in much larger quantities the surface of the soil, on becom- ing dry, will bake and form clods, and as it will remain wet and cold after watering, it is likely to induce the appearance of the rot. A good lettuce soil, properly supplied with drainage, will allow the surplus water to pass through it, and the roots will penetrate to a much greater dei)th than in a cold, heavier soil. (2.) They not only have suitable varieties, but the best growers take pains to have selected plants from selected seeds of selected strains of those varieties. Hav- ing found a variety adapted to the wants of a particular market, each grower should raise his own seed, selecting it from plants that come nearest his ideal, carefully pul- ling up all others before they have blossoms. Care should be taken to reject all of the small, light seeds, as CONDITIONS poll SUCCESS. 197 they will develop mucli weaker plants than will be obtained from large, plump seed. When transplanting, the weak plants should be rejected, and in this way an even stand of plants will be secured that will be ready for cutting at the same time, thus both securing a better crop and a saving in time. (3.) Careful attention to regulating the tempera- ture at night and to ventilation during the day. The burning of the edges of the leaves, which is so trouble- some with head lettuce, is undoubtedly due to some neg- lect in these particulars. Sixty degrees answers well as a day temperature, but even at this, air should be given, and if it rises higher the ventilators should be opened wide. (4.) Securing a steady growth of the plants and guarding against a check. Aside from the top-dressing that is desirable after each crop is taken off, the applica- tion of a little ground bone, wood ashes and nitrate of soda to the surface, will both increase the size of the plants and hasten their maturity. (5.) So handling the houses that insects and fun- gous diseases cannot gain a foothold. CHAPTER XIV. CUCUMBERS,, TO.MATOES AND MELONS AS WINTER CROPS. For many 3'Gsrs, tlie forcing of tomatoes and cucum- bers for winter marketing has l)een quite profitable ne:ir some of the large eastern cities, but at the present time there are fewer inducements to engage in the business than formerly, owing in part to the low price at which the southern-grown crops can be placed on the northern market, and the competition from the large number of jiersons who are now engaged in the business. During the spring and early summer, after tlie time wlien lettuce can no longer be grown with success in the houses, there is still an opportunity of growing both of these crops with profit, as the houses can be used for nothing else at this time, and there will be but a small expenditure for fuel. In the winter, however, the expense of keeping up the necessary high temperature in the houses will be very large, and the prices sometimes run very low, but with good care fairly profitable returns will be secured. When these crops are grown in beds, a crop of beans or lettuce can be taken off before the entire space will be needed by the vines. If either cucumbers or tomatoes are grown iji solid benches, to follow a lettuce crop, the growth of the plants can be hastened, and fuel can le saved, by digging trenches under where the rows of plants are to be set, one foot wide and rleep, and filling with fresh horse manure. This will gradually decom- pose and will furnish bottom heat to accelerate the 198 CUCUMBERS UNDER GLASS. 199 growth of the plants and, later on, supply food for the development of the crop of fruit. CUCUMBERS UNDER GLASS. Many growers have found the cucumber a profitable crop, particularly to follow the second or third crop of lettuce, to be sold during the early summer. While cucumbers thrive in lean-to or span-roof houses, the three-quarter span forcing house seems particularly adapted to their growth. The house should be arranged so as to provide for thorough ventilation, but as cold air is injurious to the tender plants, the ventilators should be so situated as to admit fresh air without producing a draft. Eidge ventilators, hinged at the lower side, seem best of all for this purpose. The heating apparatus should be arranged to fur- nish a night temperature of 65 degrees, and the pipes should be, at least in part, overhead. Perhaps tlie best arrangement will be to have the flow pipes overhead, and one or two returns on each side brought back on the plates, with the remainder under the benches, where they will provide the necessary bottom heat, when raised benches are used, or in tlie walks in houses with solid beds. This arrangement will prevent any downward currents of cold air upon the plants. The tables or beds may be arranged as in a rose house, or they may consist of a wide bench in the center and a narrow one at each side (Fig. 74). A house eighteen feet wide will be adapted for growing cucumbers, but any width up to thirty feet may be used, and tlie wider houses will gen- erally be preferable. When used as a succession crop, the cucumbers are not started until about December or January, but with a good market they will be found profitable if started in the fall, and fruited during the winter. The seeds should be sown either in four-inch pots, or in trans- 200 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. PLANTING AND TRAINING. 201 planting boxes, using light, sandy compost. Only one or two plants should be allowed to grow, but it is well to use one or two extra seeds. When the seeds are sown, the pots or boxes should not be filled more than one-half full of soil, but as the plants develop they should be filled up with rich compost. The seeds will germinate best at 70 or 80 degrees, and if started in a lettuce house, they should be placed in the warmest portion, upon about six inches of fresh horse manure, over which three inches of soil should be placed, and covered with hotbed sash, to hold tlie heat. Another method is to sow the seeds in flats filled with sand, and transplant to jjots. The beds should be ten to twelve inches deep, with an inch or so of drainage at the bot- tom. Upon the clinkers, or similar material thiit is used for this purpose, a layer of rich pasture sods should be placed, and on this about six inches of rich compost, prepared about the same as for roses, except that more manure is desirable, and the soil used should be of a rather more sandy nature. While in the i^ots, the plants should not be checked by lack of water or of plant food, and under no conditions should they become pot-bound; they can be easiest cared for if plunged in a brisk bot- tom heat. PLANTING AND TRAINING. When about to run, they should be planted out, giving each plant at least four squpre feet of space. In houses with wide beds, it will be well to have the rows it least three feet apart, while five or six will be prefer- able, and to grow the plants wuth two in a box or pot, setting them three feet apart in the rows, and training the plants in opposite directions. Between the rows the trellises are placed. These consist of wires one foot apart upon either side of an A-shaped framework, extending nearly to the glass. The vine will be trained up on either side and it will form a series of galleries, 203 GREixHOUSE MANAGEMENT. within which the encumbers can be gatbered and the vines tended. Still another way, in lean-to, or three- quarter span houses, is to plant them in rows two feet apart, with five or six feet between the rows, training them towards the south upon wire trellises inclined at an angle of about 45 or 50 degrees. The rows should be about five feet from the south side of the beds. For use in ordinary even-span houses, with a wide bed in the center, and narrow ones on the sides, a good method is to plant two rows in each of the side beds and four in the center, at intervals of two feet each way, but so that the plants in one row will stand halfway between those in the adjoining row. The wires, each of which is to support one of the vines, are placed one foot apart and run from the walls to a point below the ridge, at a distance of from ten to twelve inches below the glass. Stakes or strings are used to support the vines until they have reached the wires upon which they are to run. When the vines in the outer row have reached a point over the edge of the center bed, they should be pinched off, as should those in the center bed when they reach the ridge. This will cause side shoots to be sent out upon which the fruits will be formed. When grown in solid beds, the necessary bottom heat can be provided by making a hotbed under each row. When the rows are close together, it will be nec- essary to place the heating material under the entire bed, but if three feet or more apart, it will only be nec- essary to make a bed of fresh horse manure, about -one foot wide and deep, which is tramped down and covered with eight inches of soil. When upon raised beds, the required bottom heat can be secured from steam or hot water pipes, as can also be done in solid beds. To supply a crop during the early winter, the seed should be sown abont the first of August, and can be transplanted to the bed in about one month. In less than POLLINATION. 203 two months after being placed in the beds the cucumbers should be ready for market. If to follow the second crop of lettuce that will be taken off in January, the seed should be sown the first of December, and after being transplanted into four- or five-inch pots, will be leady to be placed in the beds as soon as they are filled with roots. For a few days after the plants are set in the beds, the temperature at night should not be above 60 degrees, but as soon as the plants are established it should be gradually raised to 65 degrees at night, and it may reach 80 or 85 degrees during the day if the sun is shining, but it will be desirable not to have it above 70 degrees in cloudy weather. With this high temperature, there is great danger of red spider, and the walks should be wet down morning and evening, and the plants should be occasionally syringed on bright mornings, with water from which the chill has been taken. Unless the soil is deep and rich, liquid manure can be used to advantage once a week after the roots have penetrated all parts of it, especially if the plants are close together, and mulching is also advisable. POLLINATION. In order to secure the development of fruit upon most of the common varieties of cucumbers, artificial fertilization of the flowers must be resorted to, when they are grown in forcing houses during the winter, unless a hive of bees is placed in the house for the pur- pose of carrying the pollen from the staminate flowers to the pistils. It can be done by taking the pollen upon a small brush and dusting it over the pistils, and will be necessary unless some of the English forcing varieties are grown. They will develop without pollen, and it is thought by some growers that they should not be polli- nated, as it is likely to cause an enlargement at the ends of the fruit. Of course, the seeds will not fill out unless 204 GEEENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. SIGN HOUSE. DUKE OF EDINBURGH. TELEGRAPH. FIG. 75. ENGLISH FORCING CUCUMBERS. TYPICAL FORMS GROWN AT t;OBNELL EXPERIMENT STATION. VAEIETIES. 205 the flowers are fertilized, and this will be an improTe- ment, in addition to what is gained in the improved form of the fruits, and in labor. As the fruits develop, the larger ones should be sup- ported by slings of raffia, to relieve the vines of tbeir weight and prevent their being torn from their supports, but if the vines are carefully tied to the trellis, with raffia, the ordinary varieties can be grown without tying up the fruits. Tbe crop should be ready for market in from sixty to eighty days from the date of sowing the seed. VARIETIES. For most markets the common garden varieties are the only ones that are profitable, the White Spine and a strain known as Arlington White Spine being most commonly grown. The English forcing cucumbers have a flavor distinctly their own, and retain their green color much longer than the ordinary sorts. They often reach a length of two feet, and are edible after they attain their full development. Of the forcing sorts, Sion House (Fig. 75) is most commonly grown. It is smooth, regular in shape, and something over a foot in length ; Telegraph is long, smooth and slender, with a length of from sixteen to twenty inches ; Marquis of Lome is still larger, and is an excellent variety for one of its size. Duke of Edinburgh is another very long variety. In growing cucumbers under glass, the black plant louse and the spotted mite are quite troublesome^ but they can readily be kept in check by syringing the plants with fir tree oil, or tobacco water. The plants are also subject to the attack of various fungous diseases, one of the most injurious of which is the powdery mildew. For diseases of this kind, evapo- rated sulphur will be found an excellent remedy. THE FORCING OF TOMATOES. The tomato flourishes under about the same con- ditions as the cucumber, and may be grown in the same 206 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. house, with good results. If it is desired, two crops can be grown, one ripening in December and the other in April. For the first crop, the seed should be sown in July, and the seedlings transplanted into shallow boxes in August ; about the first of September they may be placed in four-inch pots, or again in flats, and by the first of October may )-eceive their final transplant- ing. This can be into ten-inch pots, into beds similar to those used for cucumbers, or into deep boxes. If grown in pots or beds, the soil should be prepared in the same way as for cucumbers ; if boxes are used, they should be one foot deep and from ten to eighteen inches square, according to the number of plants grown in them. The large size with four plants will, perhaps, give best results. Unless a large crack has been left in the bottom of the box, several holes should be made, in order to provide thorough drainage. For commercial growing, the use of beds is preferable, with two rows of plants on side benches three to three and one-half feet wide ; from eighteen to twenty inches each way will be right for wider beds. If a succession is desired, seeds may be sown at intervals of four weeks, and for the second main crop the sowing should be made about the first of December. When the plants are desired to follow the crop of let- tuce taken ofE in February, the seeds may also be sown at that date. The same care will be required as for the seeds sown in August. The best temperature for the tomato for the first few weeks after planting is about 55 degrees, but when established it should be raised to about C5 degrees, and should not be allowed to fall below 60 degrees at night. During the day the temperature may run up to 75 or 80 degrees, but ventilation should be given when it can be done without creating a draft or dropping the temperature below 65 or 70 degrees. If only a cool IHE FORCING OF TOMATOES. ^07 208 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMEISTT. house is availal)lc for starting the plants, a hotbed should be made for them, the same as for the cucumber. As recommended for the cucumber, it is well to fill the pots or boxes only about half full at first, thus allow- ing of the application of a liberal amount of rich com- post, when needed TRAINING AND PRUNING. As soon as the plants start into growth after being finally transplanted, some arrangement should be made for supporting them. They may be tied to stakes (Fig. 76) Avith raffia, or, which is perhaps a better method, to vertical supports of linen twine. If a stout wire is run along tlie rafters over each row of plants, the twine can be fastened to it as a support, while the lower end can be held in place by a stake, inserted near the plants, or it can be tied to the plant near the ground. Others use trellises similar to tliose described for the cucumber. If early fruits are desired, the vines should be trained to simple shoots, and all suckers that form in the axils should be rubbed out as soon as they show themselves. At the liight of six feet, the growth of the maiii shoot should be stopped. If the growth is so rank as to shade the plants, some of the larger leaves should be pinched off, but if they have plenty of light and air, the leaves should all be allowed to develop, unless they become diseased, when they should be removed and burned. When the crop is not particularly needed as an early one, two or three shoots mnybe trained from each plant, if desired. In either case, the method of pruning and training is the same, and the shoots should be tied at frequent intervals, to hold them in place. If the plants have been set about twenty inches apart each way (from eighteen to twenty-four according to. the variety), the pruning recommended above will be ample. For the winter and early spring crops, artificial fer- tilization of the blossoms is very desirable. At the VARIETIES. 209 time the pollen is shed, the house should be kept quite warm and the atmosphere dry. By gently shaking or tapj)ing the blossom shoots, the pollen will be scattered to some extent, but larger and more regular fruits will be obtained if the flowers are artificially cross-fertilized. Perhaps the easiest way of doing this is to take pollen, obtained from flowers collected the previous summer and dried, upon a small paddle and touch it to the stigmas of the flowers. Bees may also be used for fer- tilizing this crop. As the fruits develop, if large vari- eties are grown, it will pay to support the clusters by means of slings of raffia. From the plants started about the first oi August, fruit should be obtained in Novem- ber, and from three to four months will be required by tlie spring crop after the seed is sown. VARIETIES. In selecting varieties for forcing, the very early angular sorts should not be chosen, as, when forced, they are very small and iiTegular ; neither should the very large, rough sorts be used, as they will be more irregular than when grown in the open air. The Beauty is one of the best of the jiurple sorts, and Ignotum and Volunteer, of the red kinds, answer well for the spring crop, but as an early winter variety, the Advance, or Lorillard, should be used. Nicholson is also well adapted to winter forcing. From two to five pounds per plant, according to the season, would be a fair crop, and the wholesale price will vary from ten cents per pound in May, to forty or fifty in January, and at this rate will be quite remunerative. GENERAL RULES. To obtain the best results in forcing tomatoes dur- ing the winter months: (1.) The house must be built so as to afford the plants as much sunlight as possible ; it should have a space of at least six feet above the tables, 14 210 GREENHOUSE MAKAGEMENT. and the heating apparatus should be ample to keep the house at CO degrees during the coldest weather. (3.) The plants sliould be of forcing varieties and should never be subjected to a check for want of food, water, air, or warmth, or from an excess of any of these. (3.) In watering, use enough water to moisten the entire soil, and then withhold until the plant shows signs of need- ing more. When the plants are small, and at other times when the fruit is not setting, syringe the plants on GKOWI^G MLbHucnm- bright days and keep the walks wet down. Whenever fruit is setting, the house should be kept warm and dry. The atmosphere can be deprived of much of its moisture by ventilating during the warm part of the day. The red spider is one of the worst enemies in the tomato forcing-house, but the above treatment will keep it in check. If the soil is kept too wet, the develop- ment of nematodes or eel worms upon the roots is invited and they frequently rot oJS. The stems and foliage are also attacked by various bacterial and fun- -■^SHROOM CULTURE. 211 gous diseases. TfiSy are induced by overwatering, or ventilating, and by syringing tbe plants njion dull days and late in the day, when the moisture remains a long time upon the foliage. When fungi of any kind appear, the diseased portion should be burned and the plants syringed with ammoniated copper carbonate, or copper sulphate solution. MELONS. During the early summer, vegetable houses can often be used for forcing melons, with profit. They should be started in March, and grown in four-inch pots until the lettuce or other crop is taken off in April. The care is the same as for the cucumber. Hackensack is one of the best sorts for the purpose. CHAPTER XV. MUSHROOM CULTURE. It often happens that in greenhouses there is no occasion for using the space beneath the benches for ordinary greenhouse crops, and many florists have found in the mushroom a crop that can be grown at a slight extra expense of labor and material, and if a good yield is obtained the proceeds may more than equal those from the plants grown on the bench itself. If any of the tables are not to be used until spring, a mushroom bed can also be made upon them, and the crop can be har- vested before the bench is needed. The best results are obtained at temperatures of from 55 to 60 degrees, and this is secured in the average green- house. When houses are run at a slightly lower tem- perature, a larger amount of heating material can be 212 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. used, and if the sides of tlie table are closed in, the tem- perature can be kept at the desired point. The great trouble in growing mushrooms under the benches is in the soaking of the bed by the drip, but when the plants on the benches are planted out, there will be less drip than when grown in pots, and with care in watering, 110 harm need be 4opQ. U drip cannot be prevented in PKEPAKATION OF THE MATERIAL. 213 any other manner, it can be kept from the mushroom bed by placing spare shutters or glass sash over the bed, at an angle so that the water will b? carried away. Fig. 77 illustrates the use of spare benches in the greenhouse, for mushroom growing, while Fig. 78 shows the results that may be obtained under the benches. In growing the mushroom, quite a quantity of manure is required, and it is considerable labor to pre- pare it and to make the bed, but as the manure, after being used to grow the mushroom, is worth as much as before for many greenhouse crops, the labor of prepara- tion only can be charged to the mushrooms. Mush- rooms are usually grown in cellars, where the heat and moisture can be controlled, but they can even be grown successfully in open sheds during the fall, and in Eng- land they are very largely grown in the open air. When grown in hothouses, the thing k) avoid is an excess of heat, which would destroy the bed, but in the ordinary rose houses, or those of a still lower temperature, they can be grown without difficulty. PREPARATION" OF THE MATERIAL. For the growing of mushrooms, fresh horse manure is necessary, and if this is carefully prepared, if the spawn is good and if the proper conditions are given, mushrooms are quite a sure crop. For this purpose, the horses should be fed on hay and grain and not on roots, as they injure the manure for mushroom beds. It has been recommended by some, that all straw be shaken out and only the clean droppings used, but while it is not desirable to use the clean straw from the bedding, if it is urine-soaked it may be used to advantage to the extent of at least one- half. Manure that has been made for several weeks, if it has not become ''fire-fanged," can be used, and, in fact, it is better to use manure that has been well packed down in a pile for a month, even, than to take manure as made in small quantities, placed in ^ 214 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. pile and forked over every day until a sni-)ply is obtained for the bed, as is recommended by some authors. When fresh manure is used, the crop conies on quickly, and although it may last only a short time, it will be fully as large as one from old manure, which will lust twice as long, and occupy the space for that much longer time. Having obtained a sufficient quantity of manure, it should be prepared for use in the bed. This can best be done under a shed, as the rain will then be kept off, and the manure will be less subjected to the drying action of the sun and wind, although during the summer and early autumn months, the manure may be prepared in the open air, if the pile is kept covered with straw and mats, or shutters, to keep off the rain. If a sufficient amount cannot be obtained at one time, care should be taken that what is first obtained docs not burn or fire- fang. It should be placed in a pile, and after being lev- eled off should be well tramped. If it shows signs of heating, it is well to spread it out, and after it has become cool, replace as before. As soon as a sufficient supply has been secured, it should be worked over and broken up, thoroughly mixing it together, rejecting all portions that are "burnt," as well as the coarse, dry straw and all foreign matters. It is then placed in beds about three feet high, and five or six wide, leveling off the pile and packing it down with the fork. If the manure is at all dry, it is well to moisten each layer, using tepid water, if convenient, particularly in the winter. As soon as fermentation begins and the pile has warmed through, the mass should be turned over and made into a rectangular bed, as before. As it is being worked over, it should be well shaken out, and the outside portions worked into the center. If any of the manure seems dry, it may again he watered, using a watering pot with a fine rose, and, if the pile was well warmed through, it will be well to PEEPAEATION OF THE MATEEIAL. 215 tread the bed lightly, as it is made up, thus lessening the liability of burning in the center. In perhaps three or four days, the mass will again warm up, and before it has had time to burn, it should be again turned over; the turning should be repeated generally from three to five times. The working over is for the purpose of securing a regular, even heat throughout the pile, and of prevent- ing "fire-fanging." As the mass warms up, the rapidity of fermentation can be cliecked by firmly tramping the pile, as it is worked over. The turning should be kept up until the violent heat is over, and the strong offen- sive odor has been dissipated. When properly purified and sweetened, the bed should be a homogeneous mass of a warm brown color, and with a *'sweet," agreeable and slightly pungent odor. If properly prepared, the material should have a greasy ajipearance, but should not be so moist as to allow even a drop of water to be squeezed out. Most growers add to the manure about one-fourth its bulk of loam, the amount varying with the freshness of the manure, more being used when it is fresh than if decomposed. The addition of the loam is thought to benefit by hindering decomposition and thus extending the productiveness of the bed ; it also serves to retain the ammonia and in this way may be of value, although its use is not regarded as necessary, and it is entirely dispensed with by some growers. The loam is generally obtained from land that has not been pastured for two years at least, as it otliorwise might contain worthless fungi that would prove ti ^able- some, although by some of the most successful growers this precaution is considered unnecessary. The manure may be mixed with the loam, at the time it is first piled up, at any time during its preparation, or when ready to be placed in the mushroom bed, but an excellent plan is to use it to cover the pile, after it has been worked over 216 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. once or twice, and then as it receives its next working it can be thoroughly mixed with it. By incorporating it with the manure at this time, it will serve to lessen the danger of burning, and the pile need not be turned as frequently. Ordinary field loam will answer, but Mr. Falconer recommends the use of sod loam, if the mate- rial in the spent bed is to be used for potting plants, which would certainly make it more valuable for that purpose. MAKING THE BED. The depth of the bed should depend ujion the fresh- ness of the material and the location of the bed, so far as the temperature of the surrounding air is concerned. With fresh manure alone, in a warm place, nine inches will answer, but if loam has been added it should be from ten to twelve inches deep. Decomposed manure would need to be made about three inches deeper than that in a fresh state, but should not be used in a cool place, without the addition of fresh droppings. In making the beds in a greenhouse, the top should be level, or with a slight slo()e toward the walk. Perhaps the best plan is to have the bed at the front about nine inches deep, and at the rear twelve inches. Whether made under the benches or upon them, it is well to have a board of the proper width along the front. If the space allows, it is an excellent plan to place a hotbed frame under or upon the bed, or at least to place boards about six feet apart, to form the edges of the mushroom bed, which should then be covered with hotbed sash or shutters. The manure should be shaken evenly over the bed, packing it down with a fork, thus filling it up in thin, even layers spread over the surface. When a bed is filled, a gentle treading will benefit it, and when under the greenhouse benches, the desired result can be secured by beating it down with a brick, or wooden pounder. Unless thorough ventilation MtJSHROOM SPAWIT. 21? can be given, the surface of the bed should be covered with three or four inches of dry straw, as the moisture arising from the bed would be condensed upon the sur- face, and rendgr it cold and wet. A thermometer should now be inserted, that the temperature of the interior of the bed may be noted. If properly prepared, it will rise at first to 115 or 125 degrees, but it should not go much above this. Should the temperature reach 130 degrees, it is well to cool down the surface in some way, either by forking it over to the depth of three or four inches, or by ventilating, by making holes with a -dibble. As soon as the excess of the heat has passed off, the bed should be again com- pacted, and the holes carefully filled. Should it happen that, owing to the use of partially rotten manure, the temperature does not get above 80 degrees, it will be well to strengthen the bed by adding a couple of inches of fresh droppings, which should be well worked in. A temperature of 75 or even 70 degrees, if proper material was used in the bed, will, however, suffice, and the bed will last longer than if a high temperature was secured. When the bed has cooled down to 85 degrees, the spawn may be inserted. MUSHROOM SPAWN-. The term spawn is given to the wliite, threadlike network that makes uj) the real body of the fungus, while the mushroom, or edible portion, is mei'ely the fruit stalk. The spawn, or mycelium, spreads through the soil and after gathering a suflBcient amount of food, the fruit stalk is sent up, on which the spores or seeds of the fungus are developed. While the sjjores, under proper conditions, will develop the fungus, this method is not resorted to in practice, as the spawn used in start- ing new beds is secured by a process of division similar to the growing of flowering plants from cuttings. If ;218 GREEXnOUSE MANAGEMENT. portions of old mushroom beds, containing the spawn in the form of white threads, are phiced in a dry phice, they will preserve their vitality for several years, but sliould not be relied upon for spawning mushroom beds. As generally used, however, mushroom spawn is in the form of bricks, or flakes, the former being known as English and the latter as French spawn. It is all im- ported, and the amount used is steadily increasing, the annual consumption being several hundred thousand pounds. The bricks (Fig. 79) are about eight inches long, five inches wide and one and one-fourth inches FIG. 79. BRICK SPAWN. thick. They are made by mixing two parts of fresh horse manure, one part cow manure and one part loam, and adding a little chojoped straw. This is made of about the consistency of mortar, and after being worked over two or three times, at intervals of two days, it can be made into bricks with molds, or by cutting it wiih a spade ; when first made, the nsual size of a brick is nine by six by two inches. They should be set on edge and placed in the snn and air for a few days, and when about half dry a small piece of spawn should be placed in the center of each brick, carefully filling up the holes with MUSHROOM SPAWN". 219 fresh brick material. A mild hotbed is then made, upon wliich the bricks are stacked and covered with litter to hold the heat. If kept at about GO degrees, the myce- lium will soon run through the bricks ; as soon as the white threads have run through the mass, and before the tubercles have formed, the bricks should be taken out and dried. The French spawn (Fig. 80) is prepared by treat- ing fresh horse manure in about the same way as if for a mushroom bed, except that chopped litter is used instead of loam. This may be spread in a layer about three inches deep, and after scattering over it some good FIG. 80. FRENCH SPAWN. spawn, it should be pounded down; two or three more layers of manure may then be added, with spawn upon each, and the bed then covered with loam to the depth of three or four inches. The bed should be kept rather dry, and at the end of about six or eight weeks tlie spawn will have run through the bed. This stage should be carefully looked for, and when reached the bed should be broken up and carefully dried. The French spawn will go about twice as fiir as the English in spav/uing the bed, but the mushrooms, as a rule, are not more than two-thirds as large, and the number is also considerably smaller. 220 GREENHOUSE MA.NAGEMEXT. SPAWNING THE BED. The spawn should not be inserted until the temper- ature of the bed at two inches below the surface has fal- len to 90 degrees. When bricks are used, they should be cut into twelve or fifteen pieces, and inserted in the bed at intervals of ten to twelve inches, so that they will be covered fully an inch. The flake spawn should be inserted in about the same way, using about one-half as much. If grown in a cool place, or if there is danger from moisture, it is well to cover the bed, after spawning, with two or three inches of litter, if it is not to be molded at once. By molding is meant, covering the bed with loam to the depth of about two inches. This can be done immediately after spawning, but unless the conditions are particularly favorable, it will be safer to delay it until from the fifth to the tenth day, yet it should not be put off after the twelfth day from spawning. The loam used for this purpose should be about the same as for preparing the bed. Sod fi-om an old pasture, gai'den soil or sandy loam, will answer, but any soil containing much clay or a considerable quantity of sand should be rejected. All clods and coarse material of all kinds should be thrown out, and it should then be placed over all exposed parts of the bed, to the depth of from one and one-half to two inches, and firmly packed down, particularly on the edges of the beds. CARE OF THE BED. The best results are obtained Avhen the beds are in an atmosphere of about 58 degrees ; this can vary four or five degrees each way, but if raised above 65 degrees a failure may be expected. On the other hand, the temperature of the air may fall several degrees below the freezing point, but if the bed is covered with several inches of litter, and the heat is kept in by means of mats WATERING THE BEDS. 221 and blankets, no harm will be done. For all tempera- tures under 45 degrees, covering sliould not be neglected. In warm rooms, and after tlie air becomes warm in sum- mer, the mushrooms will be light and with long spin- dling stems, while the bed will soon be exhausted. When kept at 55 to 58 degrees, the mushrooms will appear in seven or eight weeks, according to the warmth of the bed, after spawning, while at 60 degrees, it may not be much over six weeks, but the crop will not last. WATERING THE BEDS. When properly prepared, especially if the bed is in a cellar, or in a shaded house, watering should not be necessary, but when artificial heat is used the beds quickly dry out, and should be watered, if the mush- rooms have begun to form. The water should be at 90 to 100 degrees, and should be used in sufficient quantity to wet down the mulch. If clean," soft water is used, it may touch the small mushrooms without injurirxg them, and may be used in sufficient quantity to moisten the covering soil, but it sliould not reach the manure. As soon as the mushrooms are up, liquid manure or fresh urine may be used with good effect. If the, air is not dried out by the heating pipes, a sufficient degree of moisture can be maintained by sprinkling the walks. Water should never be used at the time the spawn is beginning to run, as it may ruin the bed. GATHERING THE CROP. In England, where mushrooms are so commonly grown, they are distinguished accoi'ding to their devel- opment, as ''buttons," "cups" and "broilers." The "buttons" are the mushrooms gathered while quite small, and before the "veil," or the membrane which connects the cup with the stem, bursts ; they are always 222 GKEENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. gathered at tliis stage when used for soups, and if grown from French spawn. The English mushrooms, if to be used for other purposes than in soups, may be gathered just after the frill breaks, when they are known as cups, or may be left until the cups begin to open out flat, when their use is indicated by the name that has been given them, broilers. Care should be taken to gather them before the gills turn brown, as they will lose their flavor and become tough and leathery. While broilers weigh con- siderably more than cups or buttons, they do not bring as much per pound, and as the bed will be exhausted much sooner when they are allowed to develop than if picked before the frill breaks, it is not always profitable to grow them to the largest size. The cup is the size most generally marketed, and they are gathered by giv- ing them a sliarp twist and pull, and placing in baskets with the stems down. Pulling will be found preferable to cutting, as none of the crop will then be wasted, and the mushrooms will keep fresh longer than if the stems are cut off. When mushrooms are gathered, it is best to take all that will answer, and the picking should be at frequent intervals, that none may become too old. In packing the mushrooms, they should first be sorted into three sizes, and after removing all dirt with a soft brush, pack them carefully in the boxes or baskets provided for the purpose. If to be sent any distance, a shallow, wooden box will be desirable, but for local markets, light bas- kets holding from one to ten pounds, according to the wants of the customers, may be used. The mushrooms should be packed quite firmly, and if more than two layers are placed in the packages, they should be separated by soft paper. One-pound packages are most commonly used. A well-made mushroom bed will remain in bearing about three months, and although if kept at too low a A NEW MUSHROOM. 223 temperature it may continue to yield a crop for five or six months, the total weight will be no more than in the first case. The spawn can produce about so many mush- rooms and will keep on, over a period varying with the surroundings, until it becomes exhausted. One pound per square foot is an excellent crop, while half that quantity is a good average, and mushrooms seldom sell for less than fifty cents per pound wholesale in the winter months. When the crojo has been taken off, if the litter is removed, the bed moistened with lukewarm water, an inch or two of loam added and the litter replaced, a second crop can generally be obtained. The mushrooms are attacked by a number of insects, and for description and remedies the reader is referred to the chapter treating on "Insects and Diseases.'* A NEW MUSHROOM. In' the summer of 1891, Mr. Boulon, a market gar- dener on Long Island, New York, discovered a new form of mushroom, which gave such returns that he grew it largely the following year. In 1892, the same form came under the eye of Wm. Falconer, then editor of Gardening, who brought it to the attention of Prof. G. H. Peck, who pronounced it a new species and named it AgaricAis subrvfescens. It differs from our common mushroom in being larger and coarser, with a lighter yellow neck and white gills. The cap is broader and thinner and somewhat lighter in color. When grown out of doors, it has a coarse, mushroom-like appearance, but in the house, especially if in darkness, it seems to bleach out and lose its coarseness. It is an excellent mushroom for growing in the summer, as it develops so rapidly that it almost escapes the maggot, and it does equally well in winter, provided it can be given a high temperature. Beds made under- neath the benches, where under-bench piping is used. 224 GREEXirOUSE MANAGEMENT. generally do well if covered witli a thick mnlcli to retain the moisture. Besides requiring more heat than our common musiiroom, it also needs much more moisture, and many of the failures that have been met with grow- ing it can generally be traced to the lack of one or the other. As a rule, however, it has been found rather irregular in bearing, but when one learns its proper care, it is certainly promising as a winter mushroom, and very valuable for summer growing. During the summer a hotbed has been found to answer well for growing this mushroom (Fig. 81). FIG. !S1. tin: .m;\v mitshiioom (.'U/arirus .luhrufescens) IN A COLD FKAME. After the bed is spawned some other crop may be put in and can be taken off before the mushroom will appear. A CHEAP MUSIIEOOM HOUSE. Many persons desire to grow mushrooms who per- haps have no greenhouse, or who have no place in it suitable for them. Aside from the needed heating appa- A CHEAP MUSHROOM HOUSE. 225 ratus, a house that will answer for the purpose can be constructed at a small cost. A convenient form is built about the same as a nar- row even-span gi-eenhonse, except that there is but little glass in the roof and gables. Use posts about nine feet long, and having made an excavation three 'and one-half feet deep, twelve feet wide and of the desired length, set them around it about four feet apart, and so that they will be two feet in the ground. Double board upon the outside of the posts, and complete the gables and roof the same as if for a barn. A. still cheaper roof can be constructed by using boards covered with hay. A small sash every fifteen feet along the roof will give all the light needed to handle the crop. Bank the excavated soil against the outside of the walls, up to the level of tlie plate. Constructed in this way there will be room for three beds, one above the other along each wall, with a three-foot walk in the center. The bottom tier of beds sliould be made on the floor, and if the others are placed thirty inches apart, it will give space for the making of the beds and caring for the crop. With the walls well banked, the necessary heat can be jjrovided by four or five one and one-half-inch hot water pipes. If a house twenty feet wide is preferred, it should, in addition to the three tiers of beds along each side, have three or four beds six feet wide in a rack through the center of the hoase. CHAPTER XVI. ASPARAGUS, RHUBARB AND CAULIFLOWER. The forcing of tliepe vegetables in the greenhouse is becoming an important industry with many florists, as nearly all the money obtained for them is clear gain ; the space they occupy is not likely to be used for other purposes and there is no outlay except a small amount for labor, and this is paid for several fold by the returns from the crops. ASPARAGUS FORCING. The plants used for forcing asparagus are from old, out-of-door plantations, or they maybe grown from seed to the age of three years, the seed being sown early in the spring in drills fifteen inches apart, upon rich and mod- erately heavy sandy loam. One pound of seed will be sufficient for 200 feet of drill. As the seed is slow to germinate, it is well to sow with it a few radish seeds, which will soon appear and will mark the line of the drill so that cultivation can begin at once. The seeds should be covered one inch or slightly more, and the soil compacted. The seeds need good cultivation the first year, and the following spring can be planted out to develop strength. As they will remain only two years, they can be placed quite thickly, if the soil is well enriched. A space of two and one-half by one foot for each plant will answer, although a little more is desira- ble. Here they are grown for two seasons, and can be dug just before the ground freezes, and used for forcing purposes. Since the sowing of the seed, a period of two 326 ASPARAGUS FOKCING. 237 years and six months has elapsed. The plants can be forced in almost any place where a temperature of fifty or sixty degrees can be secured, but the llorist will gen- erally utilize some of the space under his benches, or it may be he has a solid bed or even a raised bed for which he has no use for a season. The soil should be a rich, sandy loam with arrangements for thorough drainage. For early cutting, they can be planted at the time of digging, about the middle of November, while the bal- ance of the plants should be stored in a pit or cool cellar and brought in at intervals of four weeks, to give a suc- cession. The plants should be set from six to twelve inches apart, each way, according to their size, and should be well wet down. For the first ten days after setting, they should be kept rather cool (45 to 50 degrees) and given a chance to establish themselves. Afterward, the temperature should be raised to 55 or 60 degrees, and if still higher it will aid m the forcing proc- ess and should be given, if needed, for other plants. During the day it can be run up as high as 80 to 85 degrees. The asparagus will use a large amount of water, but unless it has had the chill taken off, and ample means for drainage jirovided, it c:in do far more harm than good. In setting out the asparagus in the house, the crowns should be covered about an inch, except in localities where a blanched article is required, in which case, unless they can be shut in from the light, additional soil should be added. In about six weeks from the time of planting, cutting can begin and will continue accord- ing to the temperature and the strength of the plants until they are exhausted. They can then be thrown out and the space filled with others. If care is taken to secure a succession, asparagus can be cut continually from Christ- mas until the field-grown article is offered in the spring. Asparagus may also be grown in cold frames. The plants should be set about one foot each way, and at the 228 GKEENITOUSE MAN-AGEMENT. end of two years a crop may be taken. In the full, put up the frame and fill it with horse mannre, hanking up against the outside of the frame with the same material. Cover with sash and shutters to keep out the frost. Early in March, remove tlie manure over the plants, wet down the beds thoroughly, and handle the same as any cold frame. WINTER RHUBARB. With but few changes, tlie directions given for tlie forcing of aspai'agus will apply to rhubarb. The drills should be somewhat further apart, and a pound of seed "will be sufficient for 300 feet of drill. In setting the plants in the field, they will need at least three and one- half by two feet, while in the greenhouse they should have a space of from fifteen to eighteen inches square, and if the roots are very strong twenty-four by eighteen will be none too much. Nothing will be gained by set- ting the plants before Jan. 1, or until they have had a period of rest. After the stalks are half grown, liquid manure can be applied to advantage once or twice a week. If the soil is properly drained, the plants can use large quantities, but it should not be used too copiously unless the chill has been taken off from the water, other- wise the growth might be checked. The Linnaeus is an excellent forcing sort, but as with all other large varie- ties, the crop will need to be harvested when about half giown, if the plants are placed as thickly as recom- mended above. The crown of the plant is quite tender and care must be taken, when gathering the stalks, not to break it off. For spring use, rhubarb may be grown in cold frames, the same as asparagus, except that the plants should be two or three feet apart each way. THE FORCING OF CAULIFLOWERS. While cauliflower is, to a considerable extent, forced in hotbeds for spring use, it has also come into popular THE FORCING OF CAULIFLOWERS. 229 favor as a winter vegetable. It can be very easily raised and tliere is no reason why, wath a good market^ it may not be a paying crop. The seed of the first batch should be sown either in a flat or in a bed out of doors, about the first of Septem- ber. Tlie seedlings will be of a suitable size to prick out into other flats in about three weeks and can be set in the beds by the middle of October. The soil and the beds should be about the same as for radishes, except that the cauliflower requires a rather more nitroge- nous soil. They should have about the same temperature as lettuce and radishes, and the rules given for the Avatering and ventilating for those crops will answer for the cauli- flower. The plants should be set about eighteen or twenty inches apart each way, and should be ready to market from the 18th to the 30th of January, according to the care they receive. Plants for a second crop should be sown about the first of November, and after having been pricked out and grown in a flat five or six weeks, they can be re-transplanted to other flats at four inches, or can be placed in four-inch pots to be grown until the first crop is out of the way, which should be by the early part of February. The plants at this time should be large and strong and will quickly make their growth, — perfecting marketable heads early in April. As with all forced crops, the plants should never be checked, biit should be so handled that they will make a regular growth from the time the seed is sown until the crop is harvested. If space is available a continuous succession of cauliflowers can be obtained for the table or market, by making a sowing every two weeks. The time allowed for the development of the heads does not allow them to reach full size, but when half grown they will bring nearly as much as if left two weeks longer, and it is best to cut them at the size of 230 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. from four to six inches in diameter, as it allows the bed to be cleared for another crop. There is little differ- ence between a good strain of Snowball cauliflower and any of the better strains of Early Dwarf Erfurt tliat are on the market under different names. CHAPTER XVII. - RADISHES, CARROTS, BEETS AND BEANS. FORCING RADISHES. One of the first vegetables to be forced was the radish, and although it has perhaps held its own, there certainly has not been any marked increase in the amount raised for winter. The demand in the spring for hotbed and frame radishes has grown to large proportions. The crop can be easily raised in the winter, and tliere is no reason why the area of glass now devoted to it cannot readily be doubled. The crop succeeds well on either a well-drained, solid bed or a deep, raised bench, filled with from four to six inches of rich, light loam ; the greater depth should be used for the long-rooted varieties, while the bed can be more easily regulated, and as good results can be obtained, if the soil is not over four inches deep for the turnip-rooted sorts. The seed should be sown in drills, varying from five to six inches apart, according to the variety, as some kinds have small foliage that will enable the plants to grow close together, while other forcing sorts will need at least six inches. If the seed has been tested and known to be good, it could be scat- tered in drills half an inch deep, at intervals of three- fourths of an inch. It would be better, however, as EADISHES, CAKKOTS, BEETS AKD BEANS. 231 some of the plants may be destroyed, to plant the seeds somewhat closer, say at intervals of half an inch. The seeds should be covered and the soil leveled off and pressed down. If the soil is moist, as it should be, one watering at the time of sowing will be all that is neces- sary until germination is completed. During their entire growth, radishes need thorough ventilation and the air should be on at least for a short time each day, except in the most inclement weather. The night temperature should be about 50 degrees, with a minimum for best results of 45 degrees, although if it drops slightly below 40 degrees occasionally little harm will be done. With a full amount of air on, it will do no harm if on bright days the temperature of the house runs up, with sun heat, to 70 or 75 degrees, but as a radish grows best in a cool temperature, nothing over 60 or 65 degrees should be given, except by sun heat. When the second rough leaf begins to form, the plants should be thinned out so as to leave a plant every one and one-half or two inches in the rows. While the plants ai-e small, only a small amount of water is used by them and care must be taken not to saturate the bed. Syringing will be helpful on bright mornings. The first sowing should be made about the first of October and to secure a succession should be repeated every three weeks. Tlie principal enemy of the radish in the forcing house is the green aphis, which can be kept in check by fumigating with tobacco twice a week. With proper conditions for growth and a clean house, they seldom appear. For spring use, the radishes should be sown in hotbeds about the 1st and 15th of March and in a cold frame on the 15th of April, after which they can be grown in the open air. The best variety for winter forcing is a good strain of White-Tipped Scarlet Turnip, Cardinal, Globe or Scar- let Crlobe, although the Scarlet Turnip and Frcucli 232 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. Breakfast are still much used. Twenty Day Forcing and similar kinds are very early, but as a rule the small size more than offsets this advantage. Long Scarlet and Wood's Frame are among the best for hotbed and cold frame use. CARROTS. Carrots have not been largely grown in greenhouses, as they can readily be carried over winter from the pre- vious summer. They should be sown in the same way, and require about the same care, as the radish, when grown either in the forcing house or hotbed. In the latter place and in the frame they are grown to a con- siderable extent. The Early French Forcirg is the kind commonly used under glass. BEETS. This also is a profitable crop, either for the forcing house or hotbed. The best variety is the Eclipse, although the Egyptian is much used, as they are quick to develop and have small tops. The seed should be sown in drills twelve inches apart, and the plants should be thinned three or four inches in the rows when they have two jeaves. A crop of lettuce or radishes can be grown between the rows and taken off before the beets need the room. If given a high temperature, the plants run to tops, hence the house should be kept at 45 or 50 degrees, and given free ventilation. FORCING BEANS. While grown extensively for the winter markets of London, and Paris, the bean has not come into much prominence as a forced crop in this country. It requires a temperature of from 65 to 70 degrees for its successful growth ar.d to maintain this requires a large consump- tion of fuel, so that the product must bring a high price to be remunerative. In connection with tomatoes or RADISHES, CA.EROTS, BEETS AND BEAKS. 233 011011011)618, beans can, however, be grown as a catch crop. They can be grown either in the beds or in pots. If in the latter, five or six boans are sown in a seven- or eight-inch pot, and are grown without shifting, using liquid manure after the roots have matted. If to be grown in the bed, they can be sown in drills one foot apart and three inches in the row, and should be thinned to stand about six by twelve inches, or they can be started by sowing three or four beans in a four-inch pot, and as soon as the first two leaves have formed and before they become pot-bound, transplant to the bed, placing them one foot square, first removing all but two plants ; in this way, the ground can be utilized to the best advantage and a succession can be maintained. During the growth of the plants, the air should be kept rather moist, to keep down the red spider, but water should not touch the foliage. When they are in flower, in order to set well they should have good venti- lation and the air must be kept rather dry. They can be aided in the fertilization of the ovules if they are hand pollinated. The Sion House and Osborne Forcing are generally used for this purpose, although Golden Wax and other early wax sorts are well suited for winter forcing. CHAPTER XVIII. GRAPE GEOWING UNDER GLASS. While the low price at which California grapes can be placed on onr markets has rendered the raising of grapes in greenhouses, as a commercial venture, decid- edly unprofitable, the vinery is likely to remain a part of private greenhouse establishments, and as there is a dearth of literature upon the subject, a brief statement as to the proper methods to pursue is here appended. Writers upon this subject are generally very exact in their advice, but while much depends upon the char- acter of the soil, and tiie amount of moisture and heat furnislicd in a forcing grapery, this exact treatment is not so necessary in a cold grapery. In fact, grapes have been grown with success in greenliouses witii but little, if any, more care than should be given the hardy grapes in the open air. It is desirable, however, that a well pre- pared bed or border be furnished them, particularly as grapes under proper conditions will live for many years. THE GRAPE BORDER. In choosing a soil for grapes, the heavy clay as well as the light, sandy loams should not be selected. If nothing better can be secured, the former may be used, as mixed with sand it will be made friable, but the light sandy loams are not lasting enough to be used as the base for the vine compost. If turf can be obtained from an old pasture, that lias a thick fibrous sod and a heavy sandy or liglit clay loam soil, it Avill be found to l^e well adapted for grape growing. Tlji? should b^ m GEAPE GROWING UNDER GLASS. 235 broken up, and for every five yards of sod, about one yard of lime rubbish, a small quantity of charcoal, broken bricks and calcined oyster shells, should be added. It will also be well to add one hundred pounds of broken up bones. If this compost is prepared in the fall and piled up so as to shed rain, it will be in shape to use the next spring, although if necessary it may be used at once. As a rule, if the soil is fairly rich, no manure should be applied with the compost, but it can be added as a top-dressing whenever needed. In case the best turf that can be obtained is thin and growing upon exhausted soil, cut it to the depth of two inches and mix it with equal parts of rich garden soil and half decomposed strawy manure. A well drained, deep, moderately rich garden soil will give good results with- out preparing any special border, if properly top-dressed. As soon as the vines get to bearing, it is well to scrape off the surface soil, if it can be done without destroying the roots, and add a compost of equal jDarts of turf and stable manure. The vine border should be as wide as the roof that is to be covered, and may be entirely within the houses, or half inside and half outside, with the roots passing out through arches in the wall. The border should be about two feet deep, but it need not be made to its full width at the time of planting. If five or six feet wide, it will suffice for the first year, and additions can be made until, by the beginning of the fourth year, the full width has been reached. To provide the necessary fertility for the vines, mineral fertilizers are desirable, as they produce a firm and healthy growth that is less likely to be injured by unfavorable conditions than the soft, watery growth obtained from stable manure. If one peck of wood ashes, two pounds of ground bone and one-half pound 236 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. of nitrate of soda are used to one liundred square feet of border, it will have an excellent effect. In addition to this application, an inch or so of finely rotted manure should be spread over the border, both to furnish food and to act as a mulch to prevent evaporation from the surface. SELECTING THE PLANTS. The best plants are grown from eye cuttings, and should be planted when one year old. These will make a stronger start than layers from old plants, or than plants two or three years old. In selecting the varieties, the method in which they are to be grown should be considered. The first choice will always be Black Ham- burg, as this is easily grown and thrives in either a hot or cold vinery. As a rule, fully half of the vines should be of that variety, and for commercial purposes it will be as well, at least so far as the yield is concerned, if the other half are also of that sort. For a cool house, 20x30 feet, the following varieties, in numbers as indicated by the figures in parentheses, could be used : Black Hamburg (6), merlinm. (Fig. 83.) Royal Muscadine (2), white, early. Buckland Sweetwater (2), white, medium. Alicante (1), black, late. Rose Chasselas (1), red, early. White Frontignan (1), white, medium. Golden Hamburg (1), greenish yellow, mediiun. Muscat of Alexandria (1), amber, late. Lady Downer (1), black, late. A hot vinery of the same size could be filled with : Black Hamburg (5), black, medium. Royal Muscadine (1), white, early. Muscat Hamburg (1), black, medium. Syrinn (1), white, late. Muscat of Alexandria (1), amber, late. Lady Downer (1) black, late. Rose Chasselas (1), red. e-.rly. Rirbarossa (1), black, late, large. CARE THE FIKST SEASON". 237 Buckland Sweetwater (1), white, medium. Grizzly Frontignan (1), dull red, medium. Alicante (1), black, late. Golden Hamburg (1), greenish yellow, medium. If the plants have been grown in pots, so that the roots have matted, the bulls should be broken up. At any rate, the roots should be carefully spread out in av excavation about nine inches deep, and covered with fine soil, each row of roots being covered separately. If the border is all inside the house, the plants should be placed about two feet from the wall, unless the heating pipes are next to the w^all, when a distance of three or even four feet will be none too great; if part of the border is outside, they may be planted inside so that the roots can run out through the arch, or they may be planted outside, and brought in through the opening, at a a depth of five or six inches below the surface of the border. About the first of May is a good time to plant the vines, although the time might be varied two or three weeks either way, dejiending upon the conditions in which the vines have been kept. The proper time to plant is after the buds begin to swell and before they burst. The custom is to plant the vines about three feet apart, although some prefer a greater distance. CAKE THE FIRST SEASOIST. As soon as the vines are planted, they should be cut oack to a strong bud within a foot of the ground, and a single shoot from this should be trained to the trellis, rubbing off all side shoots that form on the lower half of the rafter, but after it has reached a hight of six or eight feet it may develop at will. This will enlarge the leaf surface and will make the lower portion of the stem much stronger than if the vine was only allowed to develop at the tip. Many growers advise glazing the roof of the gra- peries, so as to leave half-inch cracks between the panes. 238 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. thus jirovlcling for ventilation and cient amount of fresh air and rain for tills purpose can enter through the openings. In this way, the grapes can be grown with much less care than in tight houses, and good results are often obtained in favorable seasons. On the other hand, if the summer is cold and wet, fa? m G3 GREEJ^HOUSE MANAGEMENT. inch of the surface soil, thus disposing of any weeds or slime that may be upon it. Then place from one-half inch to one inch of compost in the bottom of a pot, put in the plant, being careful to have it in the center, and add enough soil to fill the space between the pot and the ball of earth and furnish a slight covering over the sur- face.. When all is completed the level of the soil should be from one-half inch to one inch below the edge of the pots. For sizes of pots up to four inches, a space of y-^JM±(iOl0^ value to give a secure hold in the cutting bed. Cuttings of this kind should have at least one leaf, and sometimes from two to four are left. Those at the lower part of the stem should be removed, and ^„,„ ^^ the others shortened in (Fig. 97). FIO. 97. SOFT CUTTING V & / OF coLEus. In this way the amount of evapo- ration will be checked and the cuttings can be placed nearer together. Cuttings sliould be so handled that they will not wilt. It is well to use a sharp knife, nnd to cut off the stem at nearly right angles. Neither, however, is really necessary, and in many cases the cut- tings can be broken off without the use of a knife. If in the proper condition, most cuttings will root readily from any part of the stem, but with others that root with diffi- culty, and especially if they have become too hard, it will be well to have a bud near the base of the cuttings, as roots are most readily sent out from near the nodes. THE CUTTIKG BED. 295 THE CUTTING BED. Cuttings root reudilj in sand, but, although the sil- ver sand that was a few years ago insisted upon is not a necessity, it should be free from organic matter. The sand should also be sharp, and of about medium fineness ; if too fine, or too coarse, it should be rejected, as the one packs together and obstructs the entrance of air, while the other admits it too freely, and dries out too readily. The cutting bed should have sufficient drainage to let off any surplus water, and bottom heat should be provided in some way. A narrow span-roof house, or a lean-to to the north or east, makes a good propagating house. It should afford ample means of securing ventilation. The sand should have a depth of about three inches, and, although not necessary, the best results will be obtained if it is renewed after each batch of cuttings is taken out. After the sand has been thoroughly wet down and has drained off, the cuttings may be inserted. They should be placed in straiglit rows across the bed, so that the leaves of the cuttings do not quite touch. It is a good plan, if space permits, to have the rows about twice as far apart as the plants are in the rows. Having made a narrow trench for the cuttings, they are inserted about one-half their length, the sand is pressed firmly about them and the bed is wet down. For the first few days, it is well to give them at least partial shade fi-om sun, either by placing lath or cloth screens over the glass, or by spreading paper o'- cloth over the cuttings. With a slight shading of the glass, the latter can generally be left off after the first week. "While precaution must be taken against excessive watering, there is also danger from allowing the bed to dry out as, if they wilt, the cuttings are much injured. Especially on summer days, an occasional slight sprin- kling will be beneficial. The ventilation should be care- fully looked after, and tlie arrangement should be such 29G GREENHOUSE .MANAGEMENT. as will prevent a draft over tlie cutting bed. As soon as the roots have reached a length of half an inch, the cut- tings should be potted into small pots and will need care- ful watering and shading for a few days. While the above instructions apply to most plants, there are a few that, owing to some peculiarity of con- struction or growth, need different treatment, and among them are our common Pelargoniums (geraniums), (Fig. 98), and many of the cacti and other succu- lent plants. These are more or less succulent, and if placed at once in a cutting bed and treated as above, are likely to rot off. After being made, it is well to spread them out and allow them to wilt for from one day to one week, and then place them in a rather dry cutting bed, or they may at once be potted off, using a soil containing at least one-half sand. If, after giving them one thorough watering, water is with- helduntil they begin to wilt, cuttings handled in this way will often show smaller losses than when grown in a cut- ting bed. Many plants do not strike readily unless in a moist warm air, and for such a hand glass or propaga- ting case must be used. GEKANITTM CUTTING. SAUCER PROPAGATION. Another method of rooting cuttings that gives excellent results when bottom heat cannot be secured, is by placing them in earthenware pans of sand, two or CUTTINGS. 297 three inches deep, which are kept constantly saturated with water. The other treatment, such as the making and setting of the cuttings, watering and ventihiting, is^ exactly the same as for the cutiing bed. Some of our common plants, like the oleander, root even better if placed in clear water than when in a cutting bed, or tlie saucer with its mud. Any kind of glazed earthenware vessel, of a suitable size and depth, may be used, but if it is unglazed the water will need to be much more frequently added. EYE CUTTINGS. Many plants, such as the dracaanas, cordylines, Dieffenbachias and others that form very few terminal shoots, have latent or adventitious buds upon their stems, and if these are cut into sections, about three inches long, and placed in a strong bottom heat in a propagating case, shoots will soon be sent out, which can then be taken off and rooted in sand. It is often bene^cial to split the sections and place them in the sand with the rounded side uppermost. The eye cutting used in propagating the grape (Fig. 84) differs in having a thin shaving of bark removed from the side opposite the bud. ROOT CUTTINGS. It sometimes happens that it becomes necessary to multiply plants ra]3idly that do not grow readily from cuttings of the stems, and Avhich either increase in number very slowly from the roots or fail to make good plants when grown in this way, and some other form of multiplication must be tried. If they have a tendency to sucker from the roots, we can use what are known as root cuttings. These are made by taking the roots of such plants and cutting them into pieces from one to three inches long. The pieces should be placed in flats, either on propagating benches or in hotbeds, and covere(3 298 GKEENHOUSE MAXAGEMENT. with about one inch of sandy soil. With bottom heat, they will soon callus and send out roots and one or more stems. Tlie after-treatment is the same as for stem cuttings. HARD CUTTINGS. Some plants root readily from the wood of the pre- vious year's growth, even after it has become hard, if made and callused while tlie stems are dormant, so that they will be ready to send out roots as the leaves appear. What are known as short cuttings need bottom heat to start readily, but with proper attention are excel- lent for the propagation of grapes and other deciduous plants that root readily. They are from two to three inches in length, with a strong bud near the top, and with a strip of bark and a little of the wood removed from one side for about an inch from the lower end ''''''^(Fig. 85). They should be in- serted in shallow boxes of sand with about an inch of rich compost in tlie bottom, so that the buds will be Jnst covered. They need a cool room where they can have a little bottom heat, but the temperature should be low enough to retard the swelling of the bnds until after tlie roots have appeared. While they must not be iillowed to become d)-y, only a little water will be needed until tlie leaves appear, and an excess must be avoided, A layer of soil at the bottom of the box or propagating bed will permit of the cuttings remaining some con- siderable time in the sand, or they can be taken out at once after rooting, and boxed or potted off. Many of our conifers, such as the im2)roved varieties ol arbor vitoe (Fig. 00), retinosporas, junipers and CUTTINGS. 299 Others, are readily propagated from cuttings of the ripened wood made in the winter. If they are in any way tender, it will be best to collect the wood in the full and pack it away in moist sphagnum in a cool cel- lar, until the cuttings can be made up. In a general way, they are made in about the same way as soft cut- tings, but are rooted and cared for more as the short, hard cuttings. In the spring they are planted out in nursery rows. Long cuttings are from six to eleven inches long, with a bud at the bottom and another about one inch from the upper end (Fig. 100). It will be of advantage if a little of the bark is removed near the base, as was recommended for the short cuttings. These cuttings should be made in the fall, and packed away in a cool cellar or buried in some well drained spot out of doors. It is generally customary to place them in bundles with FIG. 100. LONG CUTTING OF GKAPE. the butts up and cover with about two inches of soil, over which enough straw or other rubbish is placed to keep out the frost. As soon as severe freezing weather is over, the mulch should be removed, and when they have callused the cuttings should be planted in drills twelve to fifteen inches apart, and one to two inches in the rows, with the buds just covered. This is a cheap way of propagating grapes, currants, gooseberries, wil- lows, poplars, and many shrubs and vines. HALF-HAKD CUTTINGS. Intermediate between the hard and soft cuttings are those sometimes called *''.half-hard," in which the woody fibers have begun to form. Such plants as the rose, and many of the shrubs, when used in a soft state, are likely 300 GREEKHOUSE MANAGEMENT. to decay in the cutting bed, and with tlicm a somewhat firm condition of the wood is desirable. They are made in about the same way as the soft cuttings and require the same care. With many of the shrubs, it is a good phan to secure a heel of the old wood, if possible, at the base of the cuttings. LEAF CUTTINGS. Several plants are most readily grown from what are known as leaf cuttings, among the plants propagated in this way are the rex begonias, gloxinias, and bryo- phyllum. If a leaf of bryo]ihyllum be placed on a cut- ting bed, the buds along tlie margin will develop and send out stems and roots. The small i)lants can then be detached and potted. A rex i_begonia leaf can be made to develop buds fi-oni any of the larger veins. The leaves may be cut into strips of a fan shape an inch or so in width, severing as many of the main ribs as possible, and by inserting them edgewise in the cutting bed, small plants wdl soon form. Another way is to place the entire leaf upon the surface of the bed, sever- ing the larger veins at intervals of two inches, and either pegging them down, or sprinkling a little sand over them. The gloxinia may be grown as above, or the entire leaf may be used as a cutting by inserting the end of the petiole in the sand. CHAPTER XXIV. PROPAGATION BY LAYERING, GRAFTING AND BUDDING. Layers differ from cuttings only in being rooted while still attached to tlie plant. Many of the soft wooded plants that have long, slender branches can be readily rooted by pegging them down upon a propa- GEAFTIifG. "Ox gating bed and covering the nodes with sand. Most of the climbing and trailing vines start readily in this way. The layering of hard wooded plants can be hastened by removing a ring of bark, or making a tongue npon the branch at the point where the roots are desired. The tongue should be an inch or a little more in length, pointing towards the main plant, and include something less than half the thickness of the stem, and may be on either the upper or the under side, the former being per- haps preferable, as there will be less danger of the break- ing of the stem. The old method of layering stems that were too stiff to bend down was to fasten a flower pot filled with sandy soil about them, but while this method is now somewhat used, a better way is to bind green sphagnum about the stem, after having partially girdled it, or pierced it to the center in a number of places with a knife. If the sphagnum is thoroughly moistened when bound on, and is frequently watered, roots will soon be sent out. It is a good plan to fasten around the sphagnum a strip of cloth, in such a way as to form a sort of saucer and thus prevent the water from running off. When a suffi- cient number of roots have formed, the layers should be cut off, and, after any loose sphagnum has been shaken off, carefully potted. Until the plant has established itself in the soil, it should be kept in a propagating case, or in a small room where the air can be kept moist, and all drafts of air avoided. Frequent sprinkling of the foliage will also be desirable. GRAFTING. A graft differs from a cutting mainly in forming a callus and, after thus joining itself to another plant, taking up its food through the roots of the host (the stock) rather than through roots which it formed for itself. This method of multiplying plants is practice<3 ^j'Z GKEENHOUSE MAIiJ'AGEMENT. with many that cannot be readily grown from cuttings or layers, and for which seed cannot be used, either because they cannot be readily obtained, or because they do not reproduce the desired varieties. Grafting is performed just as the grow^th of the stock is beginning, and while the cion is still dormant. The cions are made from the last season's growth, and are from three to four inches long, with a bud near the upper end. If in the right condition, for success m grafting we only need to bind the cion upon the stock in such a way that the cam- bium of one will at some I jk C point be in contact with ' ''' '«' that of the other, and cover the cut surface so that they will not suffer from evap- oration. The more common kinds of grafting are, first, the sj^lice, in whicli, as the name indicates, the stock and cion (which should be of about the same size) are cut at their ends with a long bevel, and are bound firmly together ; second, the tongue or whip graft (Fig. 101), whicli differs from the splice only in having the ends so split as to form tongues, and they are then put together so that the tongues of one will be in the split in the other, and bound in place ; third, the cleft graft, whicli is used upon large stocks, by inserting a cion with its lower end cut wedge shape, into a cleft in the middle of the top of the stock, which has been cut off at right FIG. 101. TONGUE OR WHIP GRAFTING. GEAFTING. 303 angles, so that the bark at the outer edge of the cion will be in contact with the bark of the stock ; if the stock is large, cions may be inserted upon both edges (Fig. 102). For greenhouse work, the method known as side grafting (Fig. 103) is especially yaluable. The stock is prepared by making a slanting downward cut about an inch long in the side of the stock ; it should penetrate far enough towards the lower end to separate the cam- bium layer of wood. The cion should be cut about the same as for a cleft graft, except that the wedge should be about one-half lon- ger on the inner side than on the outer. Wh e n p u sh ed into place the tongue on the stock should cover the end of the cion and hold it in place. A modified form of this method of side grafting is known as veneer Fia. 102. CLEFT GRAFTING. grafting, aud while it is perhaps more likely to give a perfect union, it neces- sitates holding the cion in place Avhile tying it. The cuts upon the stock are made just as in ordinary whip grafting, but the tongue is cut with a slanting stroke, so that it is only about one-fourth of an inch, or slightly less, in length. The lower end of the cion is cut off at an angle of 45 degrees, and the bark and a little of the cambium are removed for about one inch at the end of the longer side of the cion. The cion is then placed against the stock so that the tongue upon the stock will 304 GBEEXHOUSE MAKAGEMENT. cover the end of the cion, and it is bound in place. Either of these methods of side grafting will be found particularly desirable for grafting the choice varieties of ornamental trees, both evergreen and deciduous. If the stocks are in pots they can be given a rest during the early winter and then started into growth so that they can be worked in January and February. Many propagators have found difficulty in the dry- ing out of the cions of conifers before the callus forms, but if they are placed on their sides upon a shallow bed of wet sphagnum, where they will have a little bottom heat, and the pots and grafts are then covered w^itli the same material, the mois- ture will be retained and the failures will be very few. The same course can be pursued to ad- vantage Avith choice de- ciduous trees. The stocks should be cut back to FIG. 103. SIDE GRAFTING. gomc cxteut at the time of grafting and as soon as growth has commenced the remaining portion may be cut away. Many other kinds of grafting have been practiced at various times and by different propagators, but none produce better results than the methods here described. In all cases except when large stocks are cleft grafted it will be necessary to wrap the graft with wax string, raffia, or yarn, in order to bind the cion and stock ifirmly together. Care should also be taken that all cuts are smooth and true, and a sharp knife with an even be\ei from the back to the edire of the blade should be used. GEAFTIXG WAX. 30.^ GRAFTING WAX. When the graft is made upon a stock at a point below tlie level of the soil^ there will be no necessity of covering the cut surfaces with any other material, as the moist soil will answer tlie purpose. Whenever the graft is made at a point where it will not he covered by the soil, some prej^aration should be used to prevent the evaporation of water from the cut surfaces. For . this purpose, nothing is better than grafting wax. There are many formulas for this mastic, most of which con- tain varying proportions of resin, beeswax and tallow, or linseed oil. As a cold wax to be used with the hands, a good proportion is, four parts resin, two parts beeswax and one part of tallow or linseed oil. After melting, it should be poured into water and left to cool until it can be held in the hands, which should be well oiled. It should then be pulled, the same as candy, until it takes on a light yellow color, after which it can be made into sticks of convenient size for use. This will be found of the right consistency for use in a warm room, or in warm weather outside. For use out of doors in cold weather, the wax should have one part less of resin (three parts resin, tw'o of beeswax and one of tallow) and should be well worked before it is taken out. As a thin mastic, to be applied with a brush, or the fingers, some of the alcoholic waxes may be used. They contain about 10 parts white resin, and one part beeswax (or one part tallow) melted together ; after removing from the fire and partially cooling, stir in enough alco- hol to give the right consistency. Keep in a tight bot- tle to prevent evaporation. BUDDING. Propagation by means of buds is only a modification of that by grafting, and in fact it is often called bud- grafting, or shield grafting. It consists in the insertion 2Q 3o(i GREEXUOUSE MANAGEMEKT. of a piece of bark, containing a bud, under the barK of another phmt of the same or a closely related species. The plant upon which the bud is placed is known as the stock and it should be in a growing condition, so that the bark will lift readily. The bud should be dor- mant, firm and well developed. In preparing the cion. FIG. 104. BUDDING. the leaves should be cut off about three-eighths of an inch from the bud, as shown in the illustration (Fig. 104). In the open ground, budding is generally performed toward the end of the period of growth, the buds being those that have developed that season, but in the green- BUDDING. 307 house it is done in the winter or early in the spring. The stocks are ripened off, and given a rest until Jan- uary, when tl)ey are brought into growth and, as soon as the bark will slip, the budding is performed, using buds that have been kejjt dormant. A " T" shaped cut is made in the bark, generally as near the collar as possi- ble, and the corners are lifted up so as to permit the insertion of the bud. In removing the bud from the cion, the cut is started about half an inch below the bud and is continued upward so as to take off a thin shaving of the wood until it is about half an inch above the bud, where the strip is cut off. The lower edge of the bark is inserted beneath the bark of the stock, and the bud is pushed down as far as it will readily go. For many plants it is fully as well, or better, to remove the shaving of Avood from the bud before i)lacing it in the stock. If, however, it cannot be done without injuring the bud, the wood should not be removed. It should then be wrapped with raffia so as to press the bark of the stock firmly down around the bud. As a rule, two or three turns below and two above the bud will be sufficient ; care should be taken in wrajiping not to cover the bud, which should be in sight between the edges of the bark. A portion of the top of the stock should now be cut off, to check the growth and promote a union with the bud, and as soon as the bud has formed leaves of its own, the remainder of the stock should be cut away. While almost any form of knife can be used for budding if it is sharp, the regular budding knives have thin blades and rounded points. Unless it has at the end of the handle a piece of ivory to be used in lift- ing the bark of the stock, the point of the blade can be arranged to seiTe for this purpose, by slightly rounding it. CHAPTER XXV. INSECTS OF THE GREENHOUSE. Few of our greenhouse plants are free from the attack of insects, and many of them are greatly injured by parasitic fungi, so that constant watchfulness is necessary if they are to be kept in a healthy condition. In this chapter we shall describe some of those that are most troublesome, and give remedies for their destruction. It should be mentioned, however, that if pro2)er care is given to the selection of the stock fiom which the plants are propagated, and if attention is paid to providing them with suitable soil, a congenial temperature and the necessary amount of water and fresh air, the plants will not only be more likely to escape attack, but will be much less injured if the insects and diseases appear. It will be found that the fungicides are for the most part intended for use as preventives rather than cures, and to bo effectual will need to be applied before the dis- ease has any hold upon the plants. The same thing is true with many of the insecticides, to the extent that they are most effective before the insects have reached their full development. Another reason for the early application of the remedies against both insects and dis- eases is that they multiply very rapidly and if not checked at the start they may propagate and become so numerous that much harm may be done. In making a choice of insecticides, we should be guided by the nature of the insect for which it is to be used. Thus against many insects that take their food by biting off and chewing the leaves, the arsenites, siicU 308 THE APHIS. 309 as Paris green and Loudon purple, will be found efficient, while for the sucking insects, which are more trouble- some in the greenhouse, we shall need to rely upon kero- sene emulsion, tobacco, whale-oil soap, pyrethrum and other remedies that act upon the exterior, or the breath- ing apparatus of the insects. THE APHIS. This insect and its allies embrace a great variety of forms, all of which may be included under the common name of plant lice or "fly." While most of them are of a green color, some forms, such as chrysanthemum aphis, are black in color, and in some cases we find a blue aphis upon the roots of plants. They have long, slender antennae or feelers, a small head, a full, round thorax or chest, and gen- erally a very large, round abdomen. From near the end of the abdomen, two tubes project, from which the so- called honeydew exudes (Fig. 105). During the early part of the season, the female aphides give birth to liv- FiG. 105. WINGLESS {npr femalc young: these propagate FEMALE APHIS. » •' » , i very rapidly until, as fall approaches, when eight or ten broods have been produced, both males and females appear. This brood, only, has wings (Fig. 106). The eggs, produced as a result of pairing serve to carry the species over winter. It has been esti- mated that from a single individual a quintillion could develop in one season. Aphides seem to thrive, in particular, upon plants in partial shade and poor ventilation. The best way of destroying them is by means of tobacco smoke, extract, or tea. All of these should be used upon the first jippearance of the aphides, as, if they are allowed to reach 310 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. full size, they are hard to destroy. As a preventive, greenhouses should be fumigated once or twice a week if insects are troublesome. Kerosene emulsion, and buhach, either as a powder or in water, are also quite effectual. The black chrysanthemum aphides are even more difficult to destroy than the green fly, and tobacco will have but little effect, if they once get their growth ; the remedies last given will, however, be found effectuah The black aphis of the violet is quite troublesome in some sections, but can be readily destroyed with hy- FIG. 106. WINGED MALE APHIS. drocyanic acid gas, as can the gall fly which attacks the violet leaves. The blue aphis sometimes appears upon the roots of plants that have in some way been stunted, particularly if they have been kept unduly dry. The plants should be shaken out, placed in whale- oil soap solution, and repotted in fresh soil. PLANT BUGS. When plants are housed in the fall some of the in- sects that have been working ujion them out of doors may be housed with them. Among the most common are the Yellow-lined plant bug and the Tarnished plant bug. They feed upon a iiumbey of plants and some- INSECTS OF THE GREENHOUSE. 311 times do much harm by sucking the sap from the buds and tender shoots. To destroy them, use kerosene emul- sion upon plants that will stand it, or in its jilace spray with whale-oil soap solution, or tir-tree oil. ALEYRODES {White Flies). Allied to the aphides are the Aleyrodes or ''white flies," as they are usually called, which sometimes appear in large numbers in the greenhouse and do considerable injury. The perfect insects are winged in both sexes, but instead of being vertical, as in the aphis, their wings are outspread. In the larvae and pupae, there is a strong resemblance to young scale insects, and they injure the leaves by puncturing them and sucking the sap. The eggs can often be found in large numbers on the under- side of the leaves. Soap is not entirely effectual, and it will be better to rely upon kerosene emulsion and simi- lar remedies. fuller's ROSE BEETLE {Armiiigus Fulleri). A few years ago great harm was done to roses in greenhouses by Fullei-'s Rose beetle (Fig. 107, a), which was often spoken of as "the rose bug." The mature FIG. 107. FULLER'S ROSE BEETLE. a, adult ; h, larva ; c, pupa. insect is about half an inch in length, and of a gray color. It conceals itself upon the stem or under the leaves, from which it eats semi-circular pieces, and when 313 GKEENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. its work is noticed, tlie beetles should be bunted and destroyed ; in this way tliey can generally be held in check. The beetles deposit their eggs on the stems near ihe ground, and the larvae pass down and feed on the roots, where they may become so numerous as to destroy the plants. The liberal use of wood ashes will do much to hold them in check, but the plants should be taken out and burned, the soil removed and the benches thor- oughly whitewashed, if they become very numerous. RED SPIDER {Tetranychus telarius Linn.) Few insects seem to have so little choice in tlieir host plants as the red spider (Fig. 108), as they not only attack plants in the greenhouse and garden, but also in the field and forest. They are very minute, being rathei less than one-twentieth of an inch in length, and vary in color from green and yellow while immature, to dark red in their adult form, with small greenish spots upon their sides. The red spider spins a fine web upon the leaves of plants, under the protection of which they feed. They have stouii FIG. 108. j^ws or mandibles, by means of which BED SPIDER. |-|j^y j-gj^j. awjiy thc cuticlc of the leaves, and also a barbed sucking apparatus, which is used to take the food from the leaves. Numbers of these insects upon a leaf, sucking out its juices, cause it to turn yellow and finally to drop from the plant. The first sign of the working of this insect is in the taking on by the leaves of a light green color, and the apjiearance of minute yellowish spots. This insect thrives in a hot, dry atmosphere, and its appearance can generally be prevented if thc houses are properly ventilated and syringed. If the spider does appear, steps should at once be taken to destroy it. If INSECTS OF THE GREENHOUSE. 313 the ventilators are kept closed for awhile on bright mornings and the walks and jDlants thoroughly syringed, the conditions will be nufavoiable to the red spider and the numbers can in this way be reduced. When the warm days of spring and summer come on, a similar treatment in the afternoon is often advisable. Another remedy that is entirely effectual and quite easy to use is evaporated sulphur. If this is applied thoroughly once or twice, it will rid the plants from these pests. THE THRIPS. The insects grouped under this name, although quite small in size, are often the source of considerable trouble in the greenhouse, as well as upon fruits and grains. They have long, slender bodies (Fig. 100) and generally four wings; these are also long and narrow and of nearly equal size and shape, with a fine hair-like fringe around their edges. In most cases the wings are without veins, except, perhaps, one or two longitudinal midribs. The antennse 109. are long and slender, with generally from THRIPS. geyen to nine joints. In tlieir mouth parts they resemble both the true bugs and the Orthoptera, or grasshopper group, as they are adapted for both biting and sucking. They resemble the adult in both the lar- val and pupal forms, and when full grown they are slightly less than one-tenth of an inch in length. They are sometimes light yellow, but are generally brown or black, with the extremity of the abdomen in some cases bright red. The antennae and legs are usually light colored ; as larvae and pupae most of the forms are of a yellowish- white. Thrips do considerable injury in the greenhouse, as they eat holes in the leaves and flowers and suck the juices. They are especially injurious to the rose, car- 314 GREENHOUSE MAISTaCxEMENT. nation, lily and azalea. As a remedy, the hose should be used freely on bright days, and if this does not suffice, it is well to make free use of whale-oil soap, kerosene emulsion, or evaporated sulphur. The vapor of tobacco can also be used with good effect, as can Paris green. When they have become imbedded in the flowers, the buds should be picked off and burned. HeUothrijts li(Bmorrlioidis, Bowd, is sometimes quite troublesome upon crotons, and Coleothrips trifasciata, Eitch, is another troublesome greenhouse si)ecies. SCALE INSECTS. Although at first these insects have but little resem- blance to the aphides to which they are closely related, a careful compaiison of the different organs will show that in many im^Dortant particulars the resemblance is quite marked. The simplest forms of these insects are the mealy bugs (Fig. 110), so-called from the fact that they cover themselves with a white cottony substance. The female mealy bug, one of the most common of which is Dactylopius adonidiim (Linn.) Signoret, does not change its form, and except in size is much the same in appearance at all stages. When about to lay its eggs, it attaches itself by means of its beak to the surface of a leaf, or stem, secretes a mass of long, cottony, tuft-like particles of wax FiG.no. MEAI.YBUG. ^^.^^^^^^^ ^j^^ ^j^^ ^f ^j^^ abdomcu, beneath which the eggs are deposited. In addition to this, the antennae, legs and each segment of the body have shorter appen'^.ages. From each lateral segment they appear as short bristles, while those at the rear end INSECTS OF THE GREENHOUSE. olj of the body are considerably elongated, often being as long as the body itself. The male undergoes a transfor- mation, and covers itself with a thick cottony mass. It is of a brown color, with long grayish wings. Another form, known as the Destructive mealy bug {Dadylopius destructor), of a yellowish-brown color, with seventeen short, stout, lateral appendages iii)on each side of its flattened body, with a very thin waxy covering. This form has been particularly destructive to orange trees. The form known as D. longifilis differs principally in having longer appendages, there being two in particular upon each side of the rear end of the abdomen that are as long as the entire body. All of these forms of mealy bugs thrive in close, hot and dry air, and particularly like to conceal themselves in a corner or in a tliick tangle of vines. The conditicms that favor their development should be avoided, and where the plants can be reached a free use of the hose with a powerful spray will often blow them off from the leaves. Kerosene emulsion, where it can be brought in contact with the mealy bugs, is also a powerful insec- ticide, as is also fir tree oil and other commercial com- pounds. On many stove plants, with large delicate leaves, the use of a stiff brush and dilute kerosene emul- sion, or whale-oil soap, is preferable. The genus Aspidiotus, to which a large number of true scale insects belong, differs in lacking, in most spe- cies, the waxy covering. They are of a yellowish or brownish color. At ti rst the larvae are active, but soon they form a scale and fix themselves; after molting a number of times they reach full size, when they arc covered with a thick, firm shell. Eggs are now deposited and, on hatch- ing, the second brood starts on the road to development. In some cases there are as many as five broods a year. Closely related to Aspidiotus, and often classed with it, are such other genera as i^ms^is, CMo7iaspts, Mytila- 31G GliEENUOLSE MANAGEMENT. spis, Lecanium, and others which differ iirincipally in the shape, or the markings of the scale. They are all suck- ing insects and must be killed by the use of kerosene emulsion and similar remedies. Using hydrocyanic acid gas is among the most effective methods of treating them. The males are nearly all winged, but the fe- males have but little power of locomotion, being wing- less and with but poorly developed legs. While often found upon plants that seem in perfect health, as a rule, weak, unhealthy plants are most likely to be at- tacked, and are most injured by them. SLUGS, SNAILS AND SOW BUGS. The damage done by the above-named animals is often very great, especially by the slugs, which seem to delight in eating off young seedlings. In modern well- built houses they are far less troublesome than in the old style of houses, that are generally damp, dark and with more or less of rotting wood. If flats, bits of board and other rubbish are not allowed to lie around under the benches, there will be little danger of their appear- ance in houses that are well lighted and properly venti- lated. Neatness, then, should always be used as a preven- tive. If they make their appearance, they can often be held in check by sprinkling air-slaked lime over as well as under the benches. This Avill help both in drying up the suriilus moisture and by its caustic action destroy or drive away the slugs and similar animals. "Traps" are also quite useful, as, by placing cabbage or lettuce leaves where they are numerous, the slugs and sow bugs will collect beneath them and if they are sprinkled with Paris green many of them will be killed. Sweetened bran also has an attraction, particularly for the slugs, and the addition of Paris green will soon clean them out. Bits of carrot poisoned with some arsenite are also good traps for sow bugs. IKSECTS or THE GREEXHOUSE. 317 While we should always encleavor to make the sur- roundings uncongenial to them by keeping all rubbish and litter i)icked up, if they do make their appearance they can readily be brought under control by any of the methods given. What are commonly known as ''Thou- sand Legged Worms" are often found with the above. They are Myriapods, and Julus virgatus is among the most common species. They feed, as a rule, upon decaying matter, but sometimes attack the roots, bulbs and fleshy stems of plants. They can generally be de stroyed if baited with slices of poisoned vegetables. EEL WORMS. Florists have often found what they called "root galls" ui^on the roots of roses and other plants, but have not known what the real cause was. They are often due to the workings in the root of a microscopic worm called from its appearance an "eel worm." They luxuriate in warm, moist surroundings, and a rose house, especially if kept unnecessarily warm, and if the beds are over- watered, gives them the very conditions they prefer. In filling the beds, care should be taken that fresh soil is obtained, and the roots of the rose and other plants should be examined, to ascertain that they are free from galls. If they once get into a bed they will increase rapidly and the plants will take on an unhealthy appearance. No satisfactory remedy is known, although air- slaked lime and kainit sprinkled over and worked into the beds have been used with fair success in some places. Care should be taken in applying kainit, but one pound per one hundred scpiare feet can be used with safety upon roses. Frost is also valuable as a natural enemy of the eel worm. Various other plants, including the violet, tomato and carnation, are often seriously troubled by this pest. 318 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. MUSHROOM ENEMIES AND DISEASES. The mushroom grower does not find it all smooth sailing, as his crops are attacked by a number of insects and other enemies, against many of which he has no remedy except to give the houses a scrupulous cleaning each summer. Little attention has been given to the scientific study of the enemies of this crop, and many may exist of which we have no knowledge. Most of the pests of which we know injure the mushrooms by eat- ing holes in, or biting off small pieces from, the tender caps ; among these are the sow bugs or wood lice, slugs, mice and other vermin. One of the most troublesome of these pests is the mushroom maggot. It is about one-fourth of an incli long, and is the larval form of a fly. It burrows through the stems and caps of tender buttons, and in the full- sized mushrooms the brown lines running through the tissues are distinctly seen. The maggots appear in April, and make it impossible to grow the ordinary mushroom in the summer. It also attacks the new mushroom {Agaricus riifescens), but from the rapid growth of this species much less injury is done. If one has a cave or cool cellar, they can be grown later in the season than if the beds are in a warm place, but it is even then about impossible to escape their attack be- tween April and October. No lemedy that is now known will destroy them ; insect powder, kainit, salt and other insecticides seem to have no effect upon them. The so-called ^'black spot" shows itself as black or brown spots or streaks upon the top of the caps ; it is also most tronblesome during thesnmmer months. The diseased appearance is caused by minute eel worms which enter the plants while they are quite small, and which generally infect all in one clnmp. They are most troublesome in old beds and seldom, if ever, appear in properly made new ones. As soon as they are through INSECTS OP THE GREENHOUSE. 310 bearing, the old beds sliould be tlirown out, and new ones made entirely from fresh materials. If the worms have been present, the walls and floor should be thor- oughly whitewashed, and all decaying matter and dis- eased mushrooms should be removed at orce. By the free use of lime and salt, the green mold in which they multiply can be kept down. Boiling water is also recommended for this purpose, to be applied to the walls, floors, boards, and sparingly to the surface of the beds, before the mushrooms appear. One of the most common and troublesome diseases of the mushroom is known as "fogging off." It, how- ever, seems to be a secondary trouble, as it as a rule only attacks muslirooms that have been injured iu some way. If the bed is too wet, or too dry, or if the surface is dis- turbed in such a way as to loosen the young mushrooms, they will fog off, so that the disease seems to partake of a fungous as well as of a bacterial nature. The so-called "flock" is even more to be dreaded. It is caused by one or more fungi that attack the gills of the mushrooms. They become thick and hard, and are often distorted. The conditions that favor the devel- opment of the disease are not understood and the only known treatment is to destroy the spawn upon which a diseased mushroom appears. In growing mushrooms, much can be done to ward off the attacks of these Viirious diseases and insects by keeping tlie house clean and free from litter and rubbish ; the beds should be removed as soon as through bearing, and in the new beds only fresh material should be used. If the atmosphere is too dry, mushrooms are some- times injured by a species of mite, closely related to the "red spider," but as they are only troublesome under the above conditions, the way to prevent their apjoear- ance and of freeing the beds of their presence will be at once apparent. 330 GREENHOUSE MAKAGEMENT. FUMIGATION WITH HYDROCYANIC ACID GAS. This is one of the most effective methods of destroy- ing insects in the greenlionse and other places where the air can be confined, but it should be used with the great- est caution, as the fumes are fatal to all animal life. Every precaution should be taken against the i^ossibility of anyone entering the house where the gas has been used, until it has been dissipated. The gas treatment has for several years been used for scale insects in California, but it was not until 1896 that it was used to any extent in greenhouses. It was then tried experimentally, by Professor Galloway and his assistants of the United Htates Department of Agricul- ture, with very satisfactory results, as it cheaply and effectually destroyed all the insects in the houses, includ- ing several species that can be effectually reached in no other way, without injuiy to most plants. The treatment is, as yet, in its experimental stage, but it has progressed so far that for many j)lants the amount that can be used has been determined, and methods of producing the gas, with the least risk and to secure the best results, have been found. The houses should be tight, and so arranged that the ventilators can be raised without entering the house. The gas is produced by the action of sulphuric acid upon cyanide of potassium in the presence of water. The experiments show that for violets, coleus, many of the ferns, Ficiis elafitica, crotons, etc., four ounces of chem- ically pure (98 per cent) potassium cyanide, six ounces of commercial sulphuric acid, and six ounces of water can be used for each 1,000 cubic feet of space. Roses, chrysanthemums and tomatoes are injured by this amount, and furtlier experiments are required to deter- mine the exact quantity that can be used with safety. It is also well to have a box in which cuttings and small FUMIGATION. 321 plants can be placed for fumigation. If this is made to contain ten cubic feet, about one dram of the cyanide and one and one-half drams each of the sulphuric acid and water will be required. For use in a greenhouse, it will be well to wet the glass, so as to close as many of the cracks as possible. Night should be selected, as tlie action of light and the usual high temperature of tlie daytime will increase the chance of injury to tbe plants, and lessen the injury to insects. The plants should be on the dry side, and the air moderately cool. At intervals of from thirty to forty feet, place in the walk a tall two-gallon earthen jar. Thus, for a house ohe hundred feet long, three jars will be required, unless it is very narrow, or very wide, when the number should be decreased or increased accordingly. In each jar place a proportionate part of the water re- quired for the house, and then carefully add an equal amount of suljihuric acid. Care should be taken not to allow any of the acid to come in contact with the cloth- ing, or person, as it is very acrid and will destroy any- thing that it touches. The amount of cyanide of potassium required for each jar should be weighed out and placed in paper bags, and just before it is to be used it should be placed inside another larger bag, to prevent any danger of the bag giving way while preparations are being made. Screw eyes are then fastened in the woodwork directly over each jar, and through these stout cords are run to the end of the house near the door, where they are fastened. To the ends over the jars tie the bags of cyanide, so that, on the ends of the strings at the door being re- leased, they will drop into the jars. When all is ready, close the ventilators, pass to the end of the house and carefully lower the bags into the jars and close the door. If any of the cyanide drops into the acid while in the house, hold the breath and get out of the house as soon 21 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. FUMIGATION. 323 as possible, as to inhale the gas is fatal. After twenty- five minutes, open the houses for at least half an hour, but do not enter even then unless obliged to, except with caution. At the usual price of pure cyanide of potassium, 30 to 35 cents per pound, and of commercial sulphuric acid, which can be bought in quantity at three or four cents per pound, the cost of fumigating a greenhouse will not be more than 12 to 15 cents per 1000 cubic feet. Wiiile it is very useful in destroying aphides, it is a particularly valuable remedy against insects and mealy bugs. One of the first uses to which it was put was the destruction of white-tailed mealy bugg [Orthezia insignis) upon coleus, which had refused to yield to other reme- dies. Its next extensive use was for the black violet aphis, in the houses of Mr. W. G. Saltford, Poughkeepsie, IS. Y. (Fig. Ill), the results of which, as reported in The Florist's Exchange, were very satisfactory. The same remedy is also much used ujjon nursery stock that has been dug for shipment. An air-tight shed arranged for ventilation is required. While in a dormant condition the trees will stand a stronger gas than will tender greenhouse plants. One ounce of the cyanide of potassium and one and one-half ounces each of water and sulphuric acid can be used with safety for each one hundred and fifty cubic feet. For the San Jose scale a second treatment will be desirable, but one application wull suffice for all other insects. The same care about inhaling the fumes should be used here as in a greenhouse. CHAPTEE XXYI. DISEASES OF GREENHOUSE PLAINTS. FUNGOUS DISEASES OF THE ROSE. — BLACK SPOT. {xictinonema rosm, Fr.). This disease, wliicli is the cause of tlie Wack spots that are so commonly seen upon tlie leaves of moss and hybrid roses in wet seasons, frequently invades the green- house and causes the leaves of the tea roses to take on an unhealthy appearance and finally to drop from the stems. Its development here seems to be invited by the same conditions as in the open ground. If the bed is poorly drained, or has been over- watered, a drop in the temperature below 50 degrees is likely to cause the fungus to appear. The "spot" when first seen is of a dark brown color, with an irregular margin (Fig. 112); it rapidly enlarges and in a short time the portion of the leaf around the spot takes on a sickly yellow color and the leaf drops. A magnified section of the leaf is seen in Fig. 113. The dark bodies (A) are the outer layer of epider- mal cells, the contents of which have been changed by the fungus into a dark brown granular sub- stance, which can be seen through the transparent cuticle of the leaf, and gives it a brown or black ap- pearance. The mycelium also penetrates the underlying cells and draws its nourishment from them, thus break- ing down the tissues and causing the surrounding por- 324 FIG. 112. ROSE SPOT. DISEASES 0^ GREEXHOUSE PLANTS. 325 tions of the leaves to take on a brown color. The spores of the fungus are developed on the mycelium, just beneath the cuticle, and, as this finally bursts and rolls back, they appear as at B. When magnified 500 diameters, the spores are seen to be two-celled (B) and oblong in shape. If they fall upon a damp rose leaf they will germinate and. cause another "spot" to form. For the destruction of this fungus, a perfect remedy is found in Bor- deaux mixture, except for its giving the plants a wliitewaslied appear- ance. The copper carbonate solu- fig. lis. black spot, tion is nearly as effectual and does SecUon magn.fied. not have this fault. Evaporated sulphur will also keep the disease in check. As in most otlier cases, prevention will be found the best cure, and to effect this have the beds Avell drained, avoid over-watering and maintain a regular temj^erature of from 56 to GO degrees, according to the requirements of the variety. POWDERY MILDEW OF THE ROSE {SphcBrotluca panuosa.) This common disease of the rose appears as a mealy or powdery covering upon the young leaves, and if the attack is severe they become twisted and distorted, and the disease even affects the stems. It develops rapidly upon the young leaves, its mycelium forming a fine cob- web from which the spore-bearing stalks are sent up. These stalks or h yph^e become constricted and break up into oval bodies — the spores, which are so numerous as to form a fine ijowder upon the leaves, v/hence the name of the fungus. This disease has another form of repro- duction, the spores of which are formed in the fall and are designed to carry the disease through the winter. The spores are in sacs, which ai'e themselves enclosed in a thick sac known as a theca. The Avinter spore cover- 326 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. ing lias for its distingnislniig feature sliort irregular threads that project from it. Like many other diseases, tliis fungus is seldom troublesome unless there is some inducing weakness in the plants, and an excessive amount of water, an excess of nitrogenous matter in the soil and, particularly, cold drafts of air upon the j^lants, will hardly fail to induce its appearance. Being entirely superficial in its growth, this mildew is easily kejit in check. The fumes of sul- phur are fatal to it, and it is well to always paint the heating pipes witli a sulphur wash ; sulphur evaporated by means of an oil stove, or by the heat of the sun, will also be easy to use, as by the last method one has only to apply the sulphur to the plants with a bellows and allow the temperature to run up to 70 degrees befoi-e opening the ventilators ; in airing the house after giving this treatment, it should be done gradually, so as to avoid cold drafts. KOSE RUST [Pltragmidium mucronaium. Winter). Although this fungus sometimes attacks tea roses, it is principally troublesome upon hybrid i:)erioetual and other hardy kinds. It first shows as light yellow spots on both sides of the leaves, or upon the stems. The epidermis is soon ruptured and granular pustules are formed. On th.e leaves these are generally quite small, but as they are very numerous and frequently coalesce, the leaves are often destroyed. When upon the veins, petioles or stems, the spots often extend themselves longitudinally and cover a considerable surface. In that case the stems and leaves become twisted and distorted. At first the pustules are of an orange-yellow color, and the spores are si)herical or slightly angular in form, and are arranged in chains. Each group is surrounded by elongated bodies called paraphyses, which form a cup- DISEASES OF GREEKHOUSE PLAKTS. 327 shaped cavity iu which the spores are formed. This constitutes what is known as the ascidio stage of the rust. Later in the season the pustules take on a reddisli color, and spores that are then present are of about the same size and shape as the secidio sjiores, but they are covered with minute spines and are arranged singly upon short stalks or basidia. Towards the end of summer, the red- dish spots are replaced by minute black bristle-like tufts, in which the winter or teleutosporcs are found. These are compound, being separated by ci'oss partitions into from five to ten cells, and are borne upon compara- tively short stalks, which are thickened toward their base. The aecidiospores and uredospores serve for the reproduction of the fungus during the summer. If the conditions are favorable, they germinate readily, but if kept dry for a few weeks they lose their power. It is the function of the teleutosporcs, with their thick cell-walls, to carry the fungus through the winter, and in the spring they germinate, sending out thickened tubes which bear at their ends small globular bodies called sporidia, which are light and easily borne about by the wind, and thus serve for the dissemination of the fungus. If they fall upon rose leaves, they quickly germinate, and soon produce new rust spots. If the disease appears upon a plant, the affected branch should be cut off and burned. By spraying with Bordeaux mixture and other copper compounds, tlie spread of the disease can be prevented, Tlie so-called Rose Phragmidium (P. speciosum, Fjies) is closely allied to the above, but differs in confining itself to the stems and seldom infecting the leaves. It forms its regular black masses of spores late in the season upon the stems. These spores (teleutosporcs) differ from those of the rose rust in having long, slender stalks. The spots fre- quently surround the stems, thus completely girdling 328 GREEKIIOUSE MANAGEMENT. them. The remedies will be tlie same as for the rose rust. ANTHKACNOSE OF THE ROSE {Gloposjjorium vosarum). Like many other plants, the rose has its anthracnose, which sometimes proves very trouhlcsome. The spores, falling iii)(>n the young tender canes, germinate, and si)reading through tlie tissues destroy the cells and even girdle the canes. The circulation is thus cut ofE to a greater or less extent, and many if not all of the leaves drop from the plant. The disease manifests itself at the exterior in the form of minute pimples in wliich the spores are formed. They are transferred to other plants in water. Other blotches can be found upon the leaves, particularly upon those that have fallen upon a damp surface. The spores readily germinate, and as they are pro- duced in great abundance, the disease may, under favora- ble conditions, spread very rapidly. Tlie spread of the disease seems to be toward the tijis of the branches, and frequently 'apparently healthy shoots appear at the base of diseased ones. As soon as the disease appears upon a plant, the infected i)orti()ns should be cut off and burned. As the Bordeaux mixture and copper compounds are fatal to the spore development of fungi, the spread of the disease can be prevented by thoroughly spraying the plants. This disease is closely related to the anthrac- nose of the raspberry, and its development is both invited and hastened by such nnfavorable conditions as poorly drained or exhausted soil. FUNGOUS DISEASES OF THE CARNATION. CARNATION RUST. This destructive disease {Uromyces caryophyllmus), has long been known in Europe, but although it had undoubtedly appeared here previous to that time, its nature was not known in this country until the fall of FUIfGOUS DISEASES OF THE CAKKATIOK. 329 1890, when the writer received from a Michigan florist a number of diseased leaves, with an inquiry as to the nature of tlie fnngus and a remedy for it. The plants had been recently received from Massachusetts, and recognizing the danger of spreading the disease, he was advised to destroy all plants that were badly infected, and to re- move from the others all leaves that showed any pustules, carefully b u rn i 11 g bo th plants and leaves, and then to spray the remaining plants with a fungi- cide. This fungus is closely related to the rust of grains and grasses, and ceems to revel upon plants grown in poorly ven- tilated houses, or that have I'eceived a check in some way, particu- larly if the plants are syringed at such times as will allow the water to stand on the leaves and branches at night. It enters the jdant and develops there without fig. ii4. cahnation rust. manifesting its iiresence, until a pustule is formed just beneath the epidermis. The spot takes on a grayish ap- pearance, and the membrane soon becoming ruptured, the mass of brownish spores is seen. Tliey are produced in great quantities and appear like fine, brown, dust- 330 GKEENHOUSE JMAXAGEMENT. ief ^ like particles. The pustules are often an eighth of an inch or even more in length, and are of an elliptical, oval, or sometimes of a crescent shape, and form on I) )th sides of the leaves and even on the stems (Fig. Hi). Th3 spores are of tu'o kinds, one of which, the iiredospores (Fig. 115 a), are round or elliptical, and show a few scattei-ed spines under the miscroscopc. They will germinate at once if they fall on a moist surface arid if the moisture is on a carnation plant, the germ tubes will penetrate the epidermis, and work their way among the tissues, break down the cells, absorb the juices and, having made their growth, develop a new mass of spores, thus completing a cycle in per- haps two weeks. The other sjiores, known as teleutnspores (Fig. 115, b), are somewhat darker in color than the others, and are more oval in shape, be- sides lacking the spines found upon the uredospores. Some varieties seem more subject to this disease than others, and jilants with firm tissues are less than others of the same variety !S. As water is required for the development of the fungus, syringing should only be done on sunny days and in the morning, that the plants may dry off before night. In damp weather, the ventilation should be thorough, and if moisture stands (Ml the plants, the fire heat should be increased. To grow plants free from rust, they should be of a strong constitution and from a healthy stock. Prefer- ably, as stated in the chapter upon carnation culture, they should be taken from plants that have not been long in flower, and that have not been grown in a high temperature. FIG. 115. SPORES OF CAU- SATION KUST. likely to be attacked with soft watery leave PUl^GOUS DISEASES OF THE CARNATIOIS". 331 "Wlien tlie cuttings are made, dip them in a solution of liver of sulphur (one ounce to three gallons), and root tliem in clean sand at a low temperature (48 or 50 degrees). Before potting off, spray them in the cutting bed with a solution of copper sulphate, using a fine sjiray that will cover both sides of all the leaves. If the disease is troublesome, it will be well to repeat the appli- cation every two weeks throughout the year, until the plants are thrown out. If one's stock has been free from rust it will only be necessary to watch it carefully and on the first appearance of the pustules to pick off and burn the infected leaves and thoroughly spray the plants, keei3ing it up at intervals, as above, until the disease has been checked. The carnation has a leaf that will withstand the use of a much stronger application of copper sulphate than most other plants, and while we have kept the disease in check with a solution of one part of the copper sul- phate in one thousand parts of water, if the disease has obtained a firm hold, it will be well to double the strength of the solution. If the ]ilants are grown on solid benches during the summer, and are thus saved the shock of transplanting, the chances of the appearance of the disease will be lessened. The fungicides can at best only prevent the spread of the disease, and if a plant is found to be badly diseased, it should be destroyed, and the diseased leaves removed from the others as soon as the pustules show. SPOT OR BLIGHT OF CARNATIONS. {Septoria dianthi Desm.) Like many of tlie other fungous diseases of plants, the nature of this disease is not generally understood, and, although it is becoming quite commonly distributed, its presence is not recognized by florists. The spots are generally of a circular form, except when upon the edges 332 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. of the leaves, when they are oblong or semi-circnlar. The centers of the spots are grayish -l)rown in color, with margins that have a purplish tinge (Fig. 110, a). Upon the liglit portion of the spots, minnte black dots will soon appear ; the mycelium of the fungus has developed within the leaf, and these points are projections from the flask-shaped concoptacles in which the spores are formed (Fig. 110, d). An en- larged spore case is shown at b and the spores themselves are seen at c. 'c The spores are quite slender and, enclosed in a viscid substance, ooze out through the opening, to be dis- solved in water and scattered to the FIG. 116. SPOT DISEASE neighboring plants, or they may be OF CARNATIONS. , , , i J! • J?i. j.1 taken up by currents oi air after the water has evaporated. The watering of the plants with a strong stream of water, through a hose, will be likely to scatter the spores, and if they fall in a drop of water on a carnation leaf, they will quickly germinate and cause other spots. If the flower stems ore affected, the growth is likely to be checked and on the leaves the eifect is to contract and weaken them, the spots turn brown and they become bent and twisted (Fig. 117). If taken in time, when the diseiise first appears, the application of fungicides will tend to keep it in check. ANTIIKACNOSE OF CARNATIONS ( Voluti'lla diaittlll). The nature of this disease was pointed out in 1891, by Dr. B. D. Halsted, who thought it to be CoUeto- trichum diantlii ; the later investigations of Prof. Atkin- son, however, would seem to show that it can more properly be referred to the genus VoJuteUa. It causes a rapid decay of the affected portions and the warmth and damp of the cutting bench seem particularly favorable FUNGOUS DISEASES OF THE CARNATION. 333 for its development and spread, as a spore will germi- nate, develop a mycelium and produce a crop of spores within three days. While particularly injurious to cuttings, it often causes serious injury to the growing plants, where it is most commonly found upon the lower portions of the stems and the clasping bases of the leaves and leaf sheaths. The diseased portions shrivel, turn brown and FIO. 117. EFFECT OF "SPOT" ON CARNATIONS. at length are dotted with black, rosette-like clusters of spores (Fig. 118, a) ; these stools owe their color and general appearance to the develoj^ment of a number of long, black bristles. Fig. 118, b, shows a section through one of these fruit clusters gi-eatly magnified, the spores being much shorter than the bristles. The germinating spores still more magnified are shown at c. 334 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. The disease is most troublesome when the plants ara grown in a poorly drained and over-watered soil, par- ticularly if the stems and leaves form a dense mat at the base. While the fungus is generally confined to the stems and leaves that are upon or close to the damp soil, the effect is sometimes seen npon the upper leaves. FIG. 118. ANTHKACNOSE OF THE CARNATION. b Spores and bristles. c Spores geriniiiating. (a natural size ; b and c greatly niagiiifled.) which will have a sickly appearance, and the stems will not develop flowers. FAIRY RING SPOT OF CARNATIONS. [Heterosporium ecliintilafum [Berk.] Cooke). This disease was described aud figured in the Gar- dener's Chronicle for 1870 by Mr. Berkeley, but it has only recently been observed in this country. The spores appear in concentric rings that develop centrifugally, FUNGOUS DISEASES OF THE CARNATION. 335 much as does the well-known ''fairy ring." The myce- lium developing within the tissues causes them to take on a light yellow color. Just beneath the epidermis, dark brown swellings appear upon the mycelium, from which the fruiting threads (Fig. 119) are sent out through the cuticle. These are produced in great num- bers from a single spot and gives it a dark brown appear- ance. A single spore (Fig. 130) is produced at the extremity of each thread ; these are generally four- FIG. 119. FAIKY RING SPOT OP CAR- NATION, FRt/ITING THREADS. (Greatly inagnifled.) FIG. 120. SPORES OF FAIRY SPOT. b Spores geiniinatiiig (Greatly magnified.) celled, but may vary from one to five, and are covered with minute spines. Germ tubes (Fig. 120, B) may be sent out from each cell of the spores. The mycelium continues its development and finally forms another set of fruiting hyphae, generally in a circle around those first produced. In this way the disease can be distin- guished from the carnation rust, with which a careless observer might confound it. GREENHOtrSE MANAGEMENT. FIG. 121. CABNA- TION LEAF MOLD. CARNATION LEAF MOLD {Clados])orium sp.). This disease shows itself in miuute circular spots, per- haps one-tenth of an inch in diameter, upon the leaves. They may become sufficiently numerous to destroy the leaves attacked. At first they are of a gray color and hear a dense growth of mold, consisting of fruiting threads, iTpon the extremities of which the spores are borne (Fig. 121). These fall off and the spots become darker in color. The disease is thought to be Cladosporium lierharum var. nodo- sum, by Prof. Atkinson. It is particularly troublesome upon plants in poorly dra^'ned soil and where care is not taken in watering and syring- ing. Under proper conditions and when the plants are only syringed early in the day, there slionld be no serious trouble from the disease, while if it does make its appearance the usual fungicides will hold it in check. BOTRYTIS OR ROT OF CARNATIONS. When the houses are kept quite warm and the soil and air are damp, the open- ing buds and the petals of the expanded flowers soften and turn yellow, and soon become covered with a slimy mold. This is the work of a fungus known as Botrytis (Fig. 122, J), which devel- ops an immense number of spores (Fig. 122, B). The temperature and moisture should be regulated, all dis- eased portions should be destroyed, and the plants sprayed with cnpram, or a solution of copper sulphate. 22. BOTRYTI8 OF CARNA" TIONS (^magiiitied). FUNGOUS DISEASES OF THE CARNATION. 337 BACTERIOSIS OF CARNATIONS. Aside from the rust, no disease of the carnation is more to be dreaded. It appears upon the immature leaves as small, circular and slightly sunken yellowish- white spots; but before the spots appear, by holding thr leaves up to the light, minute, translucent dots can be seen. Sometimes watery pimples form, but at any rate FIG. 123. BACTEKIOSIS OF CARNATIONS. the tissues affected soon dry out and sink beneath the surface of the leaf. The spots enlarge and the leaves wither (Fig. 123). The " disease " was observed by Prof. Arthur of Purdue University in January, 1889, but it was not until more than a year later that he was able to announce 338 GEEExnousr: management. what he considered to be tlie cause. From the fact tliat he found bacteria present it was thought to be of a bacterial nature, and the name " Bacteriosis" was given it. The Division of Patliplogy of the National Depart- ment of Agriculture has recently proven that the bacte- ria are but a secondary cause of the disease, and that it -^/ill not appear if the plants are kept free from the attacks of aphides, thrips, and other insects through whose punctures the bacterial germs gain entrance. FUNGOUS AND OTHER DISEASES OF VIOLETS. The following notes ivere kindly 2)i'€pared by Prof. Byron D. Halsted, of the New Jersey Experiment Station, ■who is an authority on the subject. At the outset it may be said that there are more enemies to violets than most practical growers are at first willing to admit. Much has been published upon the general subject in the florists' journals and quite uniformly under the title of — The Violet Disease. There are enemies of all sorts and frequently the worst is man himself. In other words, lack of proper treatment of soil, of the watering can, of ventilation, of tempera- ture, exposure to gases, cold winds, and many other things, can be charged with much of the luck of vigor of the plants and failure to produce profitable amounts of blooms. It is, however, not our purpose to treat of these things. There are several species of fungi that alone, or two or more working together, do much to destroy the crop. These will be briefly treated below, and it is hoped that light will be thrown upon the obscure sub- ject that may possibly assist in the difficult labor of finding remedies that will check their ravages. THE VIOLET LEAF SPOT (Cercos])ora ViolcB, Sacc). This is one of the most conspicuous as well as com- mon of the fungous diseases of the violet. As its narohur can be secured if it is rui^GiciDES. 357 applied as a wash to tlie steam or hot water pipes. When made into a thick wash with an eqnal quantity of lime, it can be apjilied with a brush and its effects will be noticed for a w^ek or more, according to the amount used and the temperature of the pipes. Another method of obtaining evaporated sulphur is by the use of a small oil stove, over which the sulphur can be placed upon an iron dish. If sulphur is evapo- rated in this way about twice a week, until its presence can be detected by the eye, it will destroy many of the insects as well as fungi. Great care should be taken that the sul^jhur does not in any way become overturned or take fire, as that would destroy the plants. The lat- ter danger will be lessened if an iron dish containing a half-inch of sand is placed beneath the dish containing the suljihur. Liver of Sulphur, or sulphide of potassium, dis- solved in water at the rate of two ounces to ten gallons of water, is also a valuable fungicide. Although its effects are less lasting than those of the copper com- pounds, it can be relied upon for the destruction of pow- dery mildew and other superficial fungi, and has the two strong points of being readily prepared, and of not dis- coloring the foliage. COPPER COMPOUNDS. During the past six or eight years, the use of various salts of copper as fungicides has rapidly increased. The simplest, cheapest, and most efficient form is a preparation of copper sulphate (blue vitriol) and lime, known as Bordeaux mixture. For some pur- poses, this fungicide is not desirable, as it leaves a coat- ing of lime upon the plants, but when this is not objec- tionable, the effect of the application will be rendered more lasting by the adhesive qualities of the lime. This mixture is made in various strengths, accord- ing to the severity of the disease and the nature of the 358 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. plants. If the attack i.s widespread, and if the fungus is a difficult one to destroy, upon all plants where a thick coating of lime will not be objectionable the fol- lowing mixture may be used: Four j)ouiids of copper sulphate, three pounds of lime, forty gallons of water. Dissolve the copper sulphate in hot water (it can readily be done by placing it in a piece of burlap and suspend- ing in a pail of water), and in another vessel slake tlie lime (also v/itli hot water), pour together, and add the remainder of the water. This mixture should be strained, in order to remove all lumps that might clog the pump. It is well to test the mixture by adding a few drops of solution of ferrocyanide of potassium. If it turns the mixture brown, more lime should be added. For the powdery mildews, and upon plants where the lime is not desirable, the mixture may be made half as strong as above, using two pounds of copper sulphate, two pounds of lime and forty gallons of water. The fungicide should be applied in a fine sj)ray, covering every part of the plants. Except in cases where the dis- ease has a firm foothold, the weaker mixture will generally answer. For use when the lime mixtures are not desirable, the modified eau celeste, or the ammoniated copper car- bonate, may be used: The former is made from 2 pounds copper sulphate, 11-2 pounds sal soda, 1 1-2 quarts ammonia water (FFFF), 32 gallons of water. Dissolve the copper sulphate and sal soda in sepa- rate vessels, pour together and, when action has ceased, add the ammonia and dilute before using. The ammonia solution of copper carbonate, or cupram, as it is called for short, is made by dissolving two ounces of precipitated copper carbonate in one quart of ammonia (FFFF), and diluting to tliii'ty-two gallons. The last two preparations form clear, dark blue solu- tions and, although less effective than the Bordeaux FUNGICIDES. 359 mixture, will generally be preferred for use upon plants in the greenhouse, as they are less unsightly. Various othei mixtures have been used for the destruction of fungous dis- eases, but none of them are as valuable as those described above. We have also had fair results from the use of a solution of copper sulphate, which is easily prepared and is quite inexpensive. We have used it at the rate of one to one thousand, or of one ounce to eight gallons of water, upon most plants, but in the case of the beet, bean, and other plants with smooth leaves, the strength should be reduced; for some plants, like the carnation, it can be doubled to advantage. To be effectual, soft water should be used in making the solution. WHITE ARSEKIC. Good results from the use of a solution of arsenic, as a remedy for the rust of the carnation, are reported by E. G. Hill and others. If only a few plants are grown, it will be best to buy "Fowler's solution'' of arsenic at a drug store, and use it at the rate of an ounce to eight gallons of water. With a little care, a solution can be readily made. The following formula is recom- mended: Take of arsenious acid C. P., 616 grains; bicarbonate of potash, 1236 grains; water, four ounces. Heat until a solution has been made and add enough water to make five ounces by measure. TJse one ounce of the solution to eight gallons of water. Care should be taken not to inhale any of tlie vapor when making the solution. A thorough application seems to kill the spores and the body of the fungus, and at the same time causes the injured leaves to drop off, thus cleaning up the plants. CHAPTER XXIX. SOIL, MANURES AND WATERING. Brief allusions have several times been made to the preparation of soil for various greenhouse crops, but a few words in a general way may not be amiss. In the past, there has been great mystery thrown over the preparation of potting soil by the florist of the old school, whose recipes have been as exact and as com- plex as the physician's prescription. To-day, however, the veil has been thrown back, and the whole matter has been found to be simplicity itself. The materials that form the basis of the potting soil for nearly all green- house plants, are rotten pasture sods and cow, horse, or sheep manure, in the proportion of one of the latter to from two to five of the former. The sods should be cut in the spring or fall, several months before the soil will be needed, and should be obtained if possible from an old pasture that has a thick fibrous turf, the slice being made from two to four inches thick, according to the thickness of the sod. They should be piled up and decomposed manure added, using a layer of manure tc two or three layers of sods. If the sods come fi-om a clay soil, the additicm of sharp sand will be of benefit and, for most crops, a portion at least of tlie manure should come from the horse stable. On the other hand, if the turf contains more or less sand, cow manure will be preferable and, if from a very light soil, the addition of a very small quantity of clay loam will be of value. As a rule, however, when the turf can be obtained from a moderately hea-vy, sandy loam soil, the addition of th^ m SOIL, MANURES AKD WATERING. 361 manure alone is all tliat will be necessary. When the sods have become perhaps half rotted, the pile should be cub down and worked over. If this is done the first of May, the compost can be used for filling the benches, in three or four weeks, and by August it will be in good condition for potting. When it can be readily obtained, sheep manure is of value, either for mixing with soil for potting, as a top-dressing or for preparing liquid manure. For seed pans and for potting cuttings, it is well to pass the compost through a coarse sieve, but for most purposes this will be an injury, as much of the fibrous portion of the compost will be removed. With a com- post prepared as above, almost any kind of plants can be grown, but the intelligent florist will prefer to modify it to suit the wants of the different species. For bulbs, in particular, and for cuttings of nearly all plants, the amount of sand can well be increased. Leaf mold is a valuable addition to a potting soil, but, for most plants, its use is not essential, and the same can be said of peat. Many of the stove plants, however, do best in a light, porous soil, and leaf mold and peat can be added to advantage, in tlie proportion of one part of each to eight of the compost. SAND FOE THE CUTTING BENCH. The use of "silver sand" has been insisted upon as necessary for success in growing cuttings, but florists now take no especial pains to obtain it, although it is desirable if it can be secured near at hand. The main thing is to use sharp sand of medium fineness, that is free from organic matter. Anything that partakes of a quicksand nature, where the angles of the grains have been worn off, will pack around the cuttings, and extremely fine sand has the same fault. Coarse sand, on the other hand, dries out too quickly, unless it is flooded, and admits air too freely to the cut surface of the cut- 362 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. tings. Soil coiitiiining organic matter is also to be avoided, as its fermentation will lead to the development of bacteria and fungi, which are likely to cause the decay of the cuttings. It is probable, too, that the ])resence of organic matter in the soil hinders the proper aeration of tlie cutting bed. FERTILIZERS. Although stable manure should be the principal reliance for plant food, some of the chemical manures can be used to advantage. Aside from their value in supplying plant food, they will, if judiciously applied, promote a firm, healthy growth of the plants, and im- prove the texture and keeping qualities of the flowers. Great care should be taken in the use of chemical fer- tilizers, as many of them are of a strong alkaline, while others are of an acid, nature, and if used to excess, they will have an injurious ratlier than a beneficial effect. With the exception of ground bone, it is not safe to use any of them in seed pans, or in soil for cuttings or young seedlings. A large amount of water is given off from the surface ol the soil by evaporation. The alka- lies held in solution are deposited on the surface of the soil, and may be strong enough to destroy the tender plant's. Even when used in small quantities in solution in wr.ter, if applied frequently, they may accumulate and become strong enough to injure the plants. Ground bone is one of the most valuable mineral fercilizers, as it promotes a strong, yet firm and healthy, growth and can be used in almost an unlimited quantity, witliout danger of injuring the plants. Pure bone, only, should be used, and to produce the best effects it should be finely ground. Whatever the plants to be grown, bone meal can be added to the soil to advantage, taking the place of a part of the manure, and it will be found equally valuable whether they are in seed boxes, cut- SOIL, MAKURES AND WATERIKG. 363 tings, or to be repotted. For plants grown either in shallow or in solid beds, the addition of bone meal to the soil, both at time of planting and at intervals during the season, will be of value. One quart of pure, fine ground bone to a bushel of soil will answer for this purpose, but two or three times as much can be used for seed boxes, or for repotting. Ground bone furnishes about twenty to twenty-five per cent phosphoric acid, of which less than one-half per cent is soluble, and about six per cent is reverted (available to plants). It also contains about four per cent of nitrogen. There is, however, a consid- erable variation in the amount of the constituents. Mildly acidulated bone, if used at all, should be first carefully tested. Bone superphosphate is made by dissolving bones in sulphuric acid, thus rendering nearly all the phosphoric acid available to the plants. If used carefully, it is of value in the garden and for deep beds, but as the com- mercial brands generally contain some free acid and pot- ash, its use by the florist in the greenhouse cannot be recommended. Dissolved bone black consists of the refuse bone charcoal from sugar refineries and other sources, dis- solved in acid, and ground. It is of varying strength, and contains all the way from fifteen to twenty-five per cent of phosphoric acid. The j^hosphorus is in a solu- ble form, and were it always free from sulphuric acid, it would be preferable to raw bone. It should be used with great care in pots or shallow beds, but when it can be thoroughly mixed with the soil in the garden or in deep beds, it forms a valuable source of phosphoric acid. When used in repotting soil, or in shallow beds, one pound to the bushel can generally be used with safety, while half that quantity will be as much as any crop will need. It is, however, particularly desirable as a top- dressing, using perhaps one pound to twenty square feet 364 GKEENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. of bed, and in water, either alone or combined with other cliemicals. Two or even tliree tablespoonfuls in a twelvc-qiuirt watering pot of water will be perfectly safe. Sulphate and Muriate of Potash are the usual materials used as a source of potash, and when wood ashes cannot be obtained, are extremely valuable. The snli)liate is the best form for greenhouse use, and may be applied either broadcasted and mixed with the soil, or in solution in watei*. They should never be used in seed boxes, or for young plants of any kind, but in repotting large plants or in shallow beds, a tablespoonful to a bushel of the soil can be used to advantage. In water, a tablespoonful to twelve quarts will be safe. Kainit is a crude form of potash salts that is of value for supplying jiotash, and, on account of its strong alkaline nature, it is often used, about the same as the sulphate of potash, for the destruction of insects, worms, etc., in the soil. Nitrate of Potash or saltpeter, is also u*ed as a source for both nitrogen and potash. While its cost is an objection to its use in large quantities, it will be found valuable when dissolved in water at the rate of a tablespoonful in eight or ten quarts, and used as a liquid manure. Nitrate of Soda is higlily recommended for fur- nishing nitrogen for greenhouse crops, and has been tried by many florists. As a rule, however, it has been found a liindrance to the growth of the plants. This is owing to the fact that it has been used in too great strength. When thoroughly mixed with the soil, at the rate of a teaspoonful to a bushel, it will benefit large plants, or use one pound to 100 square feet of bench. As a liquid manure, it will be found snfest, and at tl.e rate of a teaspoonful to throe gallons of water it Mill be useful. If used too frequently it may cause too rank a growth of the plants. SOIL, MANURES AND WATERING. 365 Sulphate of Ammonia is also used for its nitro- gen, and is less likely to injure the plants than nitrate of soda. For all plants in which a large leaf develop- ment or rapid growth is desired, this chemical is a very valuable fertilizer. One pound to fifty square feet of bench, or a tablespoonful to a bushel of soil, or three gallons of water, can be safely used. MIXED CHEMICAL MANURES. Nearly every fertilizer manufacturer puts up a fer- tilizer prepared for greenhouse use, and, if purchased in large quantities, they can be obtained at rates but little above the market rates for the-materials. The following mixtures will be found useful to be added to the soil for nearly all greenhouse crops: Two hundred pounds pure ground bone, 30 pounds sulphate of potash, 50 pounds sulphate of ammonia, or 50 pounds of nitrate of soda; or 200 pounds ground bone and 50 pounds nitrate of potash. Either of the above can be used at the rate of one pound to twenty square feet of bench surface, or to two bushels of soil for repotting. If desired for use as a liquid manure in water, dis- solved bone black should be emjDloyed instead of ground bone, in the following proportions: One hundred pounds of dissolved bone black, 50 pounds sulj^hate of potash and 50 pounds nitrate of soda, or 50 pounds sul- phate of ammonia. Or, 100 pounds dissolved bone black and 50 pounds nitrate of potash, used at the rate of a tablespoonful of either mixture to a gallon of water. LIQUFD MANURES. In addition to the use of the above chemicals dis- solved in water, every florist should employ at frequent intervals, especially during the summer, liquid fertilizers made from the animal manures, for which purpose the manure of the sheep, hen, pigeon, cow, or horse, may 3GG GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. be used, A tank or barrel should be located at some convenient point, and in it should be placed about one foot of manure. If filled with water and allowed to stand a few hours, it will be ready for use. Plants of all kinds, either growing in beds or that have received their last shift in pots, and have filled the soil with their roots, should receive, during the growing season, an application of liquid manure, either animal or chemical, from once to three times a week. To secure quick results and for application in solu- tion, sixty pounds of nitrate of soda, twenty-five of nitrate of potash and fifteen of phosphate of ammonia, form a good mixture. A firmer, but less rapid, growth will be secured from fifty pounds ni- trate of soda, thirty of nitrate of potash, and twenty of phos- phate of ammonia, Elmer D. Smith of Adrian, Michigan, has been very successful in growing chrysanthemums with the above mixture, applying one pound in one hundred gal- lons of water for a house one hundred by eighteen feet, every five days until the flowers are half-o]ien. Phos- l)hate of potash is also used in place of the nitrate of potash and phosphate of ammonia. Commercial brands are put up by several manufac- turers, which give good results, but, like all concentrated fertilizers, they must be used with care. For the application of liquid fertilizers the Kinney pump (Fig. 127), made by the Kingston (R. I.) Hose Connection Co., will be found very useful. It is at- tached to a hose and draws from a barrel or tank a strong solution and, after mingling it with the clear THE KINNEY PUMP, SOIL, MANURES AND WATERING. 367 water, applies it to the plants with no more trouble than if the water alone is used. The rate of dilution can be readily varied. JADOO FIBRE AND LIQUID. These materials have been recently introduced as a potting soil and liquid manure. While rather expensive for general use, good plants can be grown in the fibre, and it is particularly valuable for decorative plants. It retains moisture and lessens the danger of injury from drying out of the plants. Professor Galloway, who has tested it thoroughly, recommends the fibre for hanging baskets, Jardinieres, liouse pot-plants, palms, etc. Good results can also be obtained with the liquid, diluted with forty-eight parts of water. WATERING. In the past, the practice has been to apply water to the surface of the soil and allow it to soak in. While this method is still used for pot-plants, many persons are securing good results from tlie sub-irrigation of plants grown in beds. When plants are surface watered, unless one is familiar with the work, there is danger on the one hand of over-watering and, on the other, of keeping the soil too dry. When plants are watered, the amount applied should be sufficient to thoroughly moisten the soil, and no more water should be given them until they, in some way, manifest a need of it. An experienced florist can tell from the appearance of the plants, even before they begin to wilt, as to their need of further applica- tion of water. The appearance of the pots and soil should also be considered. While plants are at rest, or in the case of young plants before they have established themselves, especially if they are in large pots, little water will be required, and, unless withheld, there will be danger of injury. As a rule, the early morning is the best time for watering, but during the hot days of sum- 368 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. mer, the plants should be examined two or three times and should receive water, if they show the need of it. While cistern water can be used for most plants, it is desirable that the chill be taken from water brought directly from springs. For stove plants and others requiring a moderately high temperature, it will be necessary to provide some method for warming the water. This can generally be done by providing tanks through Avliich steam or water pipes can pass. SUB-IREIGATION. For several years, experiments have been carried on in watering plants growing in greenhouse beds, through subterranean pipes. In nearly every case good results have been obtained, as there was not only a larger and earlier development of the plants, but the labor of api)li- cation was greatly reduced, and a smaller amount of water suflBced. In many cases, too, the danger from attack of various plant diseases was lessened. Among those who have had most experience with sub-irrigation in the greenhouse is Professor W. J. Green, of the Ohio Experiment Station, who has prepared the follow- ing notes: SUB-IRRIGATION IN THE GREENHOUSE. Sub-irrigation in the greenhouse grew out of the necessity of devising ways and means to prevent the let- tuce rot. After several conversations on the subject, between Mr. W. J. Green, horticulturist of the Ohio Experiment Station, and Mr. W. S. Turner, assistant, the latter set some lettuce plants in a box in which a tile was so placed as to admit of watering without wet- ting the foliage. The subsequent development of the method is due to the combined efforts of W. J. Green, E. C. Green and W. S. Turner. The experiments were begun in the winter of 1890-91, but in addition to some box trials a bed seveu SOIL, MANURES AND WATERING. 369 by ten feet was planted, and, giving satisfactory results, the work was extended the next season, when still better results were obtained. Tlie third year nothing was done by the station, because of removal to Wooster, Wayne county, but the work was carried on at the university in Columbus, in the houses first used for the purpose, and along the same lines, but on a larger scale, under the management of Mr. Turner. The fourth season the experiments were extended and the scope widened, under favorable circumstances, in the four new houses built by the station at Wooster, Ohio. The experiments, although not fully completed with all classes of plants which may be grown in the soil on greenhouse benches, show that all species do not respond in the same degree to the treatment, some being but slightly benefited, while with others the crop is often doubled. It is somewhat unexpected, but no plants, not even roses, have been injured by the treatment. Thus far the experiments seem to show that the various classes of plants which have been tested are ben- efited by sub-irrigation in about the following order, beginning with those which show the greatest gain : Radishes, lettuce, cucumbers, cauliflower, beets, carna- tions, violets, smilax, roses, tomatoes. It is quite prob- able that further experiments will change the order, but the list is a provisional one simply, and is given for the general guidance of those who contemplate making a trial of the method. Eadishes have generally shown more marked gains by sub-irrigation than any other crop, but in some trials lettuce has taken the first place. By this method radishes grow quicker, hence come to a marketable size earlier than by surface watering. It usually happens that marketable radishes will be found in both the surface and sub-irrigated beds at the same time, but the larger numl^er in the latter, and of greater ^4 SI'O GllEENHOUSE MANAGEMENt. average weight. The following trial with French Breakfast illustrates the above : No. marketable Feb. 23. Weight, ounces. 77 40 41 18 Sub-irrigated, Surface irrigated, The total number in each bed was 155, thus in the sub-irrigated bed about one-half were fit for the market at the first gathering, and four days later the remainder were marketable, whereas in the surface-watered bed but little more than one-fourth were ready on the 23d, and three pullings instead of two had to be made, and the average size was less. The market value of the sub-irri- gated was more than double that of the others, even though earliness is not taken into account. The chief gain due to earlier maturity, however, is because of the fact that the beds may be cleared several days sooner, which is a matter worthy of consideration. Lettuce is a much more profitable crop than rad- ishes, and some of the results with it have been quite equal to the above. The following are some of the results with the Grand Rapids, taken at random from notes of recent experiments : Experiment No. 1. No plants. Weight. Sub-irrigated, 55 17 lbs. 8 oz. Surface irrigated, 55 9 lbs. 8 oz. Experiment No. 3. Sub-irrigated, 75 23 lbs. 15 oz. Surface irrigated, 75 18 lbs. 3 oz. Experiment No. 3, Sub-irrigated, 50 14 lbs. 12 oz. Surface irrigated, 50 9 lbs. 13 oz. Some cases can be given where other varieties have shown even better results, and a number in which the crop has been more than doubled, by sub-irrigation. Fifty per cent is considered a fair average gain, and SOIL, MANUKES AND WATERING. 371 some cases have occurred where it has been as low as twenty. Several causes contribute to make the results vary so greatly. Generally it has been found that the gain by sub-irrigation is less in the early part of the winter than toward spring, owing largely to the compar- ative quantities of water required at these dates. The character of the soil has something to do Avith the. results also. Surface watering compacts the soil, but sub-irrigution does not, hence with a naturally heavy soil it is somewhat difficult to give the needed quantity of water when applied to the surface, without producing a water-logged condition, and there is danger also of inducing rot, no matter what the character of the soil. When the lettuce becomes so large as to cover the sur- face of the bed, the difficulty of watering on the surface is much increased, hence, uniform and thorough watering at this critical period requires much skill and patience. Care has been taken to give the surface-watered beds the best of attention, but it has not been possible to water them so thoroughly and well as by sub-irrigation, since by the latter method the watering can be done as easily at one period of growth as another, and the requisite quantity of water more certainly supplied. The true explanation must await further experi- ments, but at present the opinion may be ventured that the amount of water and physical condition of the soil have much to do with the results, and are probably the most important factors. An important consid- eration in the case of lettuce is the fact that there is less rot among the plants on the sub-irrigated plots than where surface watering is practiced. There is a difference in waste in the way of trimmings, due both to rot and soiled lower leaves, ranging from ten to fifteen per cent in favor of the sub-irrigated. It should not be inferred, however, that rot will not occur where sub-irrigation is practiced, for it will appear if 372 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. proper precautions are not taken in keeping the h(Aises cool and in ventilating properly. There is quite a marked difference in the quantity of bloom and size of flowers with carnations grown by the two methods, but no data can be given, as the ex- periments are incomplete. Since the i:»lants do not shade the soil to any extent, it soon becomes quite hard where water is applied to the surface, which necessitates frequent digging. In the sub-irrigated beds, however, the soil does not become compacted, and the surface re- mains loose and friable, in a condition to be permeated by the air, even Avithout digging. This physical effect upon the soil, of sub-irrigation, makes quite a difference in the amount of work required to care for a given space by the two methods of watering. The carnation is not an extreme case, but is a good example, as showing this difference. Smilax and violets seem to resj)ond well to this treatment, but comparative data cannot be given at present. The result of the experiment on roses has been lost because of nematodes, and it is worthy of note that this pest was less destructive upon the sub-irrigated than upon the surface-watered bed. In speaking of lettuce, the fact was referred to, that less care and skill are required to water properly by sub- irrigation than by the ordinary method, and it maybe further stated that the labor is less also. The water is applied quickly and it runs where it is needed. The gardener judges as to the amount required by tlie con- dition of both plants and soil, as by the old methods. Contrary to what might be inferred, he is less liable to over-water by the new than by the old plan, for with a loose, friable soil a water-logged condition is not liable to occur. In our experience it has never happened. Do we syringe the foliage of sub-irrigated plants ^o destroy the red spider, and do we sprinkle the walks to SOIL, MANURES AND WATERING. 373 supi)ly moisture to the air ? These questions are fre- quently asked, and seem to be uppermost in the minds of many. The answer to the first is, yes, of those that need it, and to the second, no. Lettuce, and most veg- etables, in fact, need not be syringed, and never receive water on the foliage, except once at planting. Almost the entire houses are watered by sub-irrigation, but there is enough moisture in the air to keep the plants in a healthy growing condition, derived from transpira- tion through the foliage and evaporation from the soil. The necessity of supplying more moisture to the air than this, for the plants above named, is not recognized. HOV\r SUB-IRRIGATION IS OPERATED. With plants that are transplanted one or more times, sub-irrigation is begun as soon as the seed is sown. Flats sixteen by twenty-four inches, and two inches deep, with slatted bottoms, are used for seed sowing. As soon as the seed is sown the flats are placed in a shallow vat containing an inch or two of water, and allowed to stand until the moisture shows on top. They are then set in any convenient spot until water is again required, which is not so soon as when surface watering is practiced. This method of watering is followed until the plants are set in the beds, or benches. Probably this method of watering involves more labor than the old plan, but the j^lants do so much better and it is so much more satisfactory in every way, that it must be counted as an improvement. Referring to experiment No. 1, with lettuee, it will be seen that the results were better than in the other cases. The plants in this ex- periment were carried through from the beginning by the two methods. The sub-irrigated were watered in that manner from the time the seed was sown, while the surface-watered were treated in the old way throughout the experiment. In the other experiments the differ- 374 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. ence in treatment was begun when the plants ■were set in the benches. By sub-irrigation, clamping off is reduced, the soil does not harden, and less attention is required than when surface watering is practiced. It is particularly recommended for the first watering after the seed is sown, to prevent washing of the soil and baking of the surface. In the benches sub-irrigation is accomplished by means of two and one-half or three-inch drain tile laid two feet apart on the bottom, either lengthwise or cross- wise, and covered with soil to the ordinary depth. Gas pipe, with holes drilled at frequent intervals, may be employed, but the cost is greater. Our best results have been obtained with tile laid on a level, crosswise of the benches. Long runs of tile are not always satisfac- tory. If iron pipe is used the holes should not be more than two feet apart, and not larger than one-fourth inch. If long runs are used the pipe must be larger than for short runs, and in all cases the capacity of the pipe must be greater than the combined capacity of the small holes. The tile may be laid end to end closely, without cement, but ordinarily a moi-e even flow is se- cured if the joints are liglitly cemented and then broken just before hardening, so as to make cracks of uniform size. The water may be introduced by boring holes through the side boards of the benches, or a T joint used, or, what is still better, a curved joint of sewer pipe of same size as the tile. When the beds are to be irrigated, water is introduced into the pipe or tile quickly, and allowed to run full length, when it soaks out uniformly through the adjacent soil. Sub-irrigation pre-supposes a water-tight bench bottom. This may be constructed in various ways, but the cheapest plan is to use ordinary barn boards, with SOIL, MAN'URES AN"D WATERING. 375 no shakes or loose knots. These are laid so as to nearly touch, and battened with lath, after which a coating of thin cement makes a water-tight bottom. Matched lumber, laid in white lead, answers the same purpose, bnt costs more. The best bottom is made of tile, either hexagonal, octagonal or flat, and covered with cement. Ordinary liexagonal (six-sided) tile laid on iron snpj)orts makes a very satisfactory bottom, and is as cheap as anything in the shape of tile. When cemented prop- erly, this makes a durable and satisfactory bottom. Lumber may be used for the sides, but is not satisfac- tory, as it warps and springs away from the tile, causing leakage. Slate, seven or eight inches wide, is the best material, and this is held in place by galvanized iron strips at the top and bottom. These strips are cut two inches wide, and bent in the form of TJ-shaped troughs. The slate sets into the bottom trough, while the upper trough fits over the top of the slate, holding them together firmiy. These slate sides rest on the iron sup- ports to the tile, and are fastened to the iron gas pipes which support the purlins. Thus it will be seen that to construct a bench for sub-irrigation adds but little to the cost over one equally durable made in the ordinary manner for surface water- ing. Where beds are on the ground, it might be neces- sary, in some cases, to make a water-tight bottom with cement, but not so if the subsoil is sufficiently retentive. In conclusion, it might not be out of place to answer some theoretical objections iirged against the plan be- cause drainage is not provided for, and humidity of the air is not taken into account, but it is proposed to let facts stand in the place of arguments, and to place the whole matter in the hands of practical men for confirmation. CHAPTER XXX. FUEL — COAL, WOOD A]S"D CEUDE OIL. The location and extent of the establishment will have much, to do in determining what kind of fuel will be most satisfactory and economical. The use of hard wood, in localities where it is plen- tiful and where coal is dear, may be advisable, especially when flues are used, or in large establishments where a night fireman is employed. For small heaters in which coal is used, the nut anthracite will be preferable, and as the size of the heater increases, a choice must be made between the egg or pea sizes, and bituminous coal. Most of our modern heaters are made for either hard or soft coal, and the choice that is made will depend lai'gely upon the cost of each. In large establishments some form of bituminous coal would probably be used. When situated near the mines, some of the low- priced grades of pea or slack coal will make cheap fuel, but they are not worth more than two-thirds as much as good lump coal, and as the fieight and handling make up the principal cost of the former, when they have to be transported any great distance, the latter will be the cheapest fuel. CRUDE OIL AS FUEL. Various devices have been invented for the burning of crude oil in greenhouse heaters. This material can only be used when steam under a moderately high pres- sure can be used to vaporize the oil. In order to use it in a hot water heater, a small steam boiler will also be needed as an auxiliary. One of the best of these burners 376 FUEL. 377 (Fig. 128) is that patented by James B. Moore, of Read- ing, Pa., which consists of an oil tube with a tapered nozzle, surrounded by a steam pipe also with a tapered nozzle. The combustion chamber is of solid metal and is placed in the ash pit, the gi'ate having been taken out. The air for combustion is admitted through oj)en- iugs on three sides of the base of the boiler. The burner is inserted through a hole on the fourth side, and is surrounded by a conical tube through which the air for combustion enters. The oil tube is connected with the oil tank, and the steam pipe with the steam dome, and also with an air FIG. 128. CRUDE OIL BURNER. pump, by which a blast is supplied while getting up steam. The steam pipe does not go directly from the. dome to the burner, but first makes a circuit of the com- bustion chamber, and the steam is there superheated. In passing through the tube to the nozzle, the oil, being surrounded by the superheated steam, is considerably heated, and flowing through the spiral grooves in the 378 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. valve escapes from the nozzle, but is at once vaporized by and mixed with the steam. It is thus carried into the combustion chamber, and may be scattered by a daflector. While a pressure of steam of from ten to fif- teen pounds is desirable, the burner Avill give a perfect combustion of fuel with eight ])ounds, and even less. In the past many persons have been prejudiced against the use of crude oil as fuel, on account of the offensive odor given off when it is handled, and from the many fires and explosions that have occurred from its use. Crude oil cannot be used to advantage unless a pipe can be run from the greenhouse to a large iron tank in which the oil is stored. This tank must be several hundred feet from any building, and so situated that it can be readily connected with a tank car on a side track. In this way there will be but little odor. The oil, by opening a valve, will run down hill to the greenhouse, and if the joints are all tight there will be no danger from explosions. The burners will require but little attention, there is no stoking to be done, no ashes to be carried out, and there will be no dirt and smoke to annoy one. About one hundred gallons of oil will be equal to a ton of Anthracite, jiea coal, and making allowance for the extra labor required when coal is burned, it is gen- erally estimated that with oil at 11.25 per barrel, it will be as cheap as soft coal at 11.80 per ton, and although the relative price may vary, the usual opinion is that with a good burner the oil is about twenty-five per cent cheaper than steam lump coal. GAS AND GASOLINE. Natural gas has been used with good results, but it cannot always be relied upon, and the supply is even now giving out in some places, while the limited terri- tory in which it is found precludes its general use. Water gas is found in many places to be an econom- ical heating material. It costs only abont twenty-five cents per thousand feet, and at that price is less than one-half as expensive as coal, and is regarded by many as cheaper than natural gas at current prices. While it may come into general use in cities, few florists are so situated that they can obtain it except at a considerable expense for the laying of mains, and it has not as yet been thoroughly tested for greenhouse heating. Gaso- line can be readily handled, and florists are now looking to it as a valuable source of fuel. When a burner adapted for its use has been invented, it may revolution- ize our present heating plants. INDEX. Page Achyranthes, varieties of 276 Aleyrodes(w)iite flies) 311 Alocasias 180 Alternaiitlieia, pi-opagalion of, 276 Andromeda, forcing of 141 Antliracnose of tlie bean ;*19 of carnat ions 332 of the rose 328 of violets 341 AntliiirinniR, prouagation and care of * 177 Aphis, tlie male and female ... 309 Aquariums 272 Aralias 166 Araiicarias — 166 Ardisias 138 Arsenites 351 Asparagus as a florist's green . . 158 winter forcing of 226 Aspidistras, propagation and uses of 168 Azaleas, jiotting and care of... 131 Hacteriosis of carnations 337 Hean, antliracnose of tlie 349 Beans, the forcing of 2.32 Bedding plants, the growing of, 274 Beets for forcing 232 Begonias, tuberous, care of 103 Bermuda lilv 9 Carnation ' rust . . . Carnations, care of the house for 48 disbudding 46 diseases of 328 growing plants in houses... 34 history of 26 in beds and benches 36 planting out and cultiva- tion 31 planting the houses 37 potting ofE 29 propagation of 27 soilfor 30 staking and trellising 40 topdressing and manuring, 48 varieties of 49 watering and ventilating.. 39 Carrots, the forcing of 232 Caulilluwer, forcing of 228 Cereus, night blooming, varie- ties of 285 Chemical manures and their effects 365 Chrysanthemums 60 care of the plants 57 diseases of 345 fleld culture 69 growing for cut flowers 57 history of 54 insects and diseases 76 lionid manure for 70 propagation by cuttings ... 56 proiirigation bv seeds 55 single stem plants in pots, 66 specimen jihmts 67 Slaking the pot plants 70 standards 6t^ taking the buds and dis- budding 63 varieties and their classi- ficjition 70 Cinerarias, jiropagation and care of 1'6 Coal, hard and soft as fuel 370 Ooleus, propagation and care of 270 Copper carbonate and its use.. .3.57 comi>ounds as fungicides. . 358 Cordylines, propagation avid care of 108 Crocuses, care of 93 380 INDEX. 381 Crotons 170 Crude oil a.s fuel 376 Cucumber and melon, diseases of 348 as a winter crop 198 forforeiiigr, vaiielies of..., 205 planting; and training, 201 pollination of 203 Cupram, iis preparation and use 357 Cutting bed, the 295 bed fungus 350 Cuttings, propagation by 291 Cyjinopliyllunis 173 Cyclamen, planting and care of 100 Cytisus 136 Dahlias, propagation and care, 281 Dampi II g off . . .'. 350 Dleffen bachias, prop a g a t i o ii and care of 177 Diseases and insects of house plants 263 of the carnation 328 of tlie rose 324 Of violets 338 Dracaenas, propagation and care of 168 Easter lilies, planting and care of 95 Eel worms 317 on violets 342 Electro culture of lettuce 194 Eulalias, propagation and care of 283 Extrnct of tobacco 354 Eye cuttings 297 Fairy ring spot of carnations.. 334 Ferns, propagation and care of, 153 vnrieiies of 154 Fertilizers, clieniical 362 Flock in mushrooms 319 Flowering plants for bedding. 277 Foliage plants, the growing of, 274 Freesias, cave of ... 95 Fruit trees tinder glass 253 Fuel — coal, wood and oil 376 Fumigation with hydrocyanic acid gas 320 Fungicides, their preparation and use 356 Fiincous diseases of plants 324 OardeniMs 1.39 Gas and gasoline as fuel 378 Ghidiolus, forcinerof 101 Grafting, propagation by 301 wax, preparat \ou of 305 Grape growing in pots 246 growing under glass 2.34 Grapes, care of vines in winter, 245 dislnnldiiia and thinnirg... 241 keeping the fruit 241 propagating the plants 245 temperature and ventila- tion 243 the border for 2.34 the forcing of 244 Page Grapes, training and pruning.. 239 under glass, care of 237 varieties for forcing 236 watering an g Containing 112 Svo. pages, • N fV U IV A. 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Cloth $0.50 Batty's Practical Taxidermy and Home Decoration. By Joseph H. Batty, taxidermist for the government surve>s and many colleges and museums in the United States. An entirely new and complete as well as authentic work on taxidermy — giving in detail full directions for cpllecting and mounting animals, birds, reptiles, fish, insects, and general objects of natural history. 125 illustrations. 204 pages. 5x7 inches. Cloth $l.oo Hemp. By S. S. BoYCE. A practical treatise on the culture of hemp for seed and fiber, with a sketch of the history and nature of the hemp plant. The various chapters are devoted to the soil and climate adapted to the culture of hemp for seed and for fiber, irrigating, harvesting, retting and machin- ery for handling hemp. Illustrated. 112 pages. 5x7 inches. Cloth $0.50 Alfalfa. By F. D. CoBURN. Its growth, uses and feeding value. The fact that alfalfa thrives in almost any soil; that without reseeding, it goes on yielding two, three, four and sometimes five cuttings annually for five, ten, or perhaps loo years ; and that either green or cured it is one of the most nutritious forage plants known, makes reliable information upon its pro- duction and uses of unusual interest. Such information is given in this volume for every part of America, by the highest authority. Illustrated. 164 pages. 5x7 inches. Cloth. $0.50 Talks on Manure. By Joseph Harris, M. S. A series of familiar and practical talks between the author and the deacon, the doctor, and other neighbors, on the whole subject of manures and fertilizers; including a chapter especially written for it by Sir John Bennet Lawes of Rothamsted, England. 366 pages. 5x7 inches. Cloth. . . . * • $i'50 STANDARD BOcKS. Practical Forestry. By Andrew S. Fuller. 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New edition, revised, enlarged and rewritten. Prc/^usely illustrated. Over 500 pages. 5x7 inches. Cloth. $2.00 Ginseng, Its Cultivation, Harvesting, Marketing and Market Value. By Maurice G. Kains, with a short account of its history dnd botany. It discusses in a practical way how to begin with either seed or roots, soil, climate and location, preparation, planting and maintenance of the beds, artificial propagation, manures, enemies, selection for market and for improvement, preparation for sale, and the profits that may be expected. This booklet is concisely written, well and profusely illus- trated, and should be in the hands of all who expect to grow this drug to supply the export trade, and to add a new and profitable industry to their farms and gardens, without inter- fering with the regular work. New edition. Revised and en- larged. Illustrated. 5x7 inches. Cloth. . . . $0.50 Truck Farming at the South. By A. Oemler. 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It is an indispen- sable book for farmers, fruit growers, nurserymen, gardeners florists, millers, grain dealers, transportation companies, col- lege and experiment station workers, etc. Illustrated. 313 pages. 5x7 inches. Cloth $i.oc Fungi and Fungicides. By Prof. Clarence M. Weed. A practical manual con cerning the fungous diseases of cultivated plants and the means of preventing their ravages. The author has endeav- ored to give such a concise account of the most important facts relating to these as will enable the cultivator to combat them intelligently. 90 illustrations. 222 pages. 5x7 inches. Paper, 50 cents; cloth ....,, $i.qo STANDARD BOOKS. Insects and Insecticides. By Clarence M. Weed, D. Sc, professor of entomology and zoology, New Hampshire college of agriculture. A practi- cal manual concerning noxious insects, and methods of preventing their injuries. Many illustrations. 334 pages. 5x7 inches. Cloth $1.50 Hozv Crops Grozv. By Prof. Samuel W. Johnson of Yale college. New and revised edition. A treatise on the chemical composition, structure and life of the plant. This book is a guide to the knowledge of agricultural plants, their composition, their structure and modes of development and growth ; of the com- plex organization of plants, and the use of the parts ; the germination of seeds, and the food of plants obtained both from the air and the soil. The book is indispensable to ail real students of agriculture. Wilh numerous illustrations and tables of analysis. 416 pages. 5x7 inches. Cloth. $1.50 Tobacco Leaf. By J. B. Killebrew and He-^dert IMyrick. Its Culture and Cure, IMarketing and Manufacture. A practical handbook on the most approved methods in growing, harvesting, curing, packing and selling tobacco, with an account of the opera- tions in every department of tobacco manufacture. The contents of this book are based on actual experiments in field, curing barn, packing house, factory and laboratory. 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