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RAMBLES ON THE RIVIERA 
 
RAMBLES ON THE 
 RIVIERA 
 
 EDUARD STRASBURGER 
 
 F. R. S., D. C. L. 
 
 I'HOFESSOR OF BOTANY AT THE UNU'ERSITV OF BONN 
 
 TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN BY 
 
 O. AND B. COMERFORD CASEY 
 
 WITH 87 COLOURED ILLUSTRATIONS BY 
 LOUISE REUSCH 
 
 NEW YORK: CHARLES SCRIHXER'S SONS 
 LONDON: T. FISHER UNWIN 
 
 MCMVI. 
 
PRINTED AT THE COLOUR PRESS OF MEISENBACH RIFFARTH & Co., 
 MUNICH, BAVARIA 
 
 (ALL RIGHTS RESERVED) 
 
DEDICATED TO 
 
 SIR THOMAS HANBURY 
 
 K. C.V. O., F. L. S., etc. 
 
 OF LA MORTOLA, ITALY, 
 
TRANSLATORS' NOTE. 
 
 ihe appearance of "Streifzlige an der Riviera"" in its 
 English garb is due to the generosity of Sir Thomas Hanbury, 
 whose beautiful garden at La Mortola is as interesting to 
 the botanist as to pleasure- seekers on the Riviera. The 
 Botanical Institute of the Universitv of Genoa and the garden 
 of the Royal Horticultural Societv at Wislev are among his 
 many gifts to Science and to Horticulture. 
 
 The translation of Professor Strasburger"s interesting 
 book has been a pleasant task, taking us back over many 
 familiar scenes. We hope that our English version may 
 afford equal pleasure to the reader. 
 
 We would like to acknowledge here the friendly co- 
 operation of the learned Author from whose revised and 
 annotated copy this translation has been made. 
 
 O. & B. C. C. 
 
 Parkstone, April 1906. 
 
PREFACE TO THE 
 FIRST EDITION 
 
 LJnder a t^rev 
 wintrv sky in the 
 valley of the Rhine I am 
 writing these lines which are to 
 serve as an introduction to mv "Rambles'" on the 
 Mediterranean coast. How fortunate is it that even 
 
 on the darkest da\ s iiin- inatii .n ran raise 
 
 us up above the clouds 1 Even when al 
 
 around is dull, fancv pictures to me with 
 
 magic touch the bright southern sunshine. 
 
 I seem to look upon the l)lue Midland Sea with its steep, rocky 
 
 shores, and in the far distance gleams the Alpine range with 
 
 its diadem of snow, ^vlirrored in my mind are the bright 
 
 Ligurian landscapes; I breathe, as it were, the aromatic 
 
 perfume of the evergreen thickets (Maquis). May similar 
 
 sensations of returning spring l)e awakened in the soul of 
 
 the reader, surrounded though he be by frost and snow! 
 
PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. 
 
 It is not the purpose of this second preface to make 
 known the frame of mind in which I wrote, but rather to explain 
 the alteration and expansion of the present volume. The 
 reader will be immediately struck by the numerous botanical 
 illustrations which have been introduced into the text. These, 
 it is hoped, will be found a great assistance to the com- 
 prehension of the plants which are described. Many of those 
 interested in these ''Rambles on the Riviera" had expressed 
 a wish that the volume should be thus illustrated. It is a 
 matter of congratulation to me that Miss Louise Reusch has 
 devoted herself to this task. She has travelled on the Riviera, 
 and there, on the spot, she has painted from Nature the 
 pictures for this book. The beauty of these paintings proves 
 her to be an accomplished artist; thev are not onlv artistic, 
 but are absolutely true to Nature. To her brush are also due the 
 appropriate vignettes which mark the main divisions of the book. 
 It reflects much credit on the publisher that he was willing to go to 
 such great expense for an undertaking with which he sym- 
 pathised; he has indeed placed me under a great obligation. 
 
 A comparison of the earlier with the present edition of 
 my ''Rambles" will show that scarcelv a page of the former 
 remains unaltered. Vet I have regarded it as essential to 
 retain the original arrangement of the subject matter and the 
 sequence of the different impressions which I received in my 
 trips to the Riviera each spring during the last ten years. 
 The last two sections of the book replace those earlier de- 
 scriptions which were found to be no longer suitable. These 
 new chapters were penned during visits to the Riviera in the 
 
PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. IX 
 
 spring of this and of the previous year. The aim of inv 
 recent journe\ was to connect the earher sketches and to 
 unite the whole into a harmonious treatise. Mv articles on 
 the Riviera, which appeared originally in the '"Deutsche 
 Rundscliau". were separate impressions, each sketch complete 
 in itself, like different pictures by the same artist. As the 
 number of these sketches increased, I became inore and more 
 desirous of connecting them together. Thus I extended mv 
 journev this vear all along the Riviera, visiting those spots 
 which are worthy of notice on account of their beauty, and 
 which had reason to complain of being neglected in mv 
 earlier sketches. Nevertheless these "Rambles" are not 
 intended as a substitute for the Guide Book. Their aim is 
 rather to direct attention to the treasures of Nature in this 
 uniquelv beautiful district : to describe some of the objects 
 which we meet with here, and so to increase the interest 
 of a sojourn in the South. 
 
 Alas I I have not been able to paint mv last sketches 
 exclusivelv in bright colours: 1 have been compelled to put 
 in many a dark shadow. For the changes which have taken 
 place of late vears on the Riviera have not all been for the 
 better; and many disagreeable impressions are beginning to 
 interfere with the pure pursuits of the naturalist. The pleasure 
 of one's walks on the French Ri\iera is now spoilt bv the motor 
 cars which throw up clouds of stifling dust, and often endanger 
 the life of the wavfarer. In Italv this sport it not pursued to the 
 same extent: nor is such high speed permitted as in France. 
 Yet even on the French Riviera plentv of places are to be 
 found, far from the beaten track, where, without let or hin- 
 drance, one may devote oneself with earnestness to the ennobling 
 study of Nature. Dare I hope that these ''Rambles"' mav often 
 lead the readers to such chosen spots ? 
 
 Bonn. Autumn l'*03. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 jr"Vs intending visitors have frequently asked me for 
 information about the Riviera, I will begin by giving some 
 advice on the subject. If in good health and only anxious 
 to enjov the charms of Nature, you can count on finding 
 such enjovment at anv place on the Rivieras di Levante and 
 Ponente between Spczia and Toulon. But if sufficient time 
 is at vour disposal vou should extend your journey over the 
 whole of that naturally favoured coast, beginning with the 
 Riviera di Levante, for the grandeur of the scenery increases 
 from cast to west up to the foot of the Esterel mountains. 
 For a visit of this kind, however, the time of year should 
 also be considered, as the Riviera di Levante, with the ex- 
 cc];)ti()n of Xervi, still wears a wintrv aspect in carl\ spring. 
 So that a journev undertaken in ]March, to include both 
 Rivieras and to extend as far as Sestri Levante, should be 
 
Xn INTRODUCTION. 
 
 begun from the western end. Nervi itself, where the mean 
 winter temperature is but Httle below that of the most 
 sheltered resorts of the Riviera di Ponente, and where ever- 
 greens abound, does not lose its charms in mid-winter. But 
 resorts on the Riviera di Levante situated south-east of Monte 
 di Portofino do not show the full splendour of their vege- 
 tation until the deciduous trees have burst into leaf. Foreign 
 plants are not yet as widely distributed on this part of the 
 coast as in Nervi and on the Riviera di Ponente; and this 
 is partlv accounted for by the fact that the protection from 
 the north decreases gradually from Portofino to Spezia. 
 Delicate plants therefore suffer more and more as one nears 
 the latter place. 
 
 For people with weak chests who seek a milder climate 
 in the South, onlv the most sheltered resorts on the Riviera 
 need be considered. The following places on the Riviera di 
 Ponente are the most completelv sheltered from the north: 
 — San Remo, Ospedaletti, Mentone, and to a certain extent 
 Alassio also, Nice with Cimiez, Cannes and Hveres: on the 
 Riviera di Levante only Nervi at the western end. At San 
 Remo, Ospedaletti and Nervi the sheltering mountains ap- 
 proach verv near to the coast. For this reason the number 
 of walks is limited. This is especiallv the case at Nervi, 
 which, howe\er, has as a compensation a remarkablv fine 
 marine parade, free from dust, where the invalid can enjoy 
 exceptional protection from almost everv wind. Since longer 
 walks are out of the question for him he will not feel the 
 want of them. But it is otherwise with strong people, who 
 would feel rather shut in here. Thev would be much better 
 off at Mentone, where, though the hills stand further back, 
 the coast is well sheltered bv the mountains which rise to 
 a considerable height. Their rugged summits tempt the 
 pedestrian further afield, while invalids mav stroll about in 
 the valleys which radiate fanwise from the coast. The 
 Western Riviera is drier than the Eastern, and can boast of 
 
INTRODUCTION. XIII 
 
 a greater number of sunny days, and of a smaller rainfall. 
 This is due to the height of the mountains which shelter it. 
 Along the Riviera di Ponente the lofty chain of the Mari- 
 time Alps rises abruptly from the coast, and the north wind 
 which prevails in winter deposits the greater part of its mois- 
 ture on them. The Apennines, which shelter the Riviera di 
 Levante, are not sufficiently high to have this effect. On 
 the Eastern Riviera Genoa and Spezia have the greatest 
 number of rainy days during the winter, while Nervi has 
 the fewest. The rainfall increases far more rapidl}' from Nervi 
 to Genoa than it does from Nervi to Spezia. In point of 
 shelter Nervi is equally favoured. As a rule the less pro- 
 tection there is from the north the more brisk and bracing 
 is the air; this should be favourable to such invalids as are 
 not consumptive. The dust is not so troublesome on the 
 Eastern as on the Western Riviera, owing to the different 
 nature of the material used in making the roads. The lime- 
 stone used for this purpoes on the Ponente is soon ground 
 into fine dust which is easily stirred up, while the shale of 
 the Levante crumbles into coarser and heavier particles. 
 
 Manv who are not themselves consumptive hesitate to 
 sojourn in a place which harbours manv invalids. It is to 
 the distinct advantage of Alentone that a Sanatorium has 
 l)een built in the Gorbio vallev which takes in such cases. 
 So that hotels can now, without inflicting hardship, refuse 
 admittance to them. 
 
 The whole coast between Mentone and Nice is ad- 
 mirably sheltered from the north. Unfortunatelv the land 
 bordering the sea at this spot is largelv in the hands of 
 private owners, so that the onlv means of communication re- 
 maining open are the raihvav and the high road. Motor 
 cars monopolise this latter, making it intolerable to invalids 
 and interfering with the enjoyment of healthv people. 
 Beaulieu, which is included in this district, is specially fav- 
 oured, since it possesses a path, free from dust, along the 
 
XIV INTRODUCTION. 
 
 eastern side of Cap Ferrat following the sea for several kilo- 
 metres. Moreover this path is so lovely that one never tires of it. 
 
 Cannes is the first place west of Nice which is suf- 
 ficiently protected from the north for people with weak 
 chests. Even here manv plants begin to suffer which thrive 
 east of Nice; and this shows that the climatic conditions are 
 becoming less favourable. Besides, the shore of Cannes is 
 not completelv sheltered from the Mistral, and for this reason 
 the hotels are built farther inland. They occupy the nearer 
 hills which slope gentlv to the sea. Some of them are situated 
 even as far back as Le Cannet. For the same reason Cimiez, 
 which stands well back from the coast to the north of Nice, 
 is now in such favour as a health resort. This spot was al- 
 ready esteemed bv the Romans on account of its mild 
 climate, and was a favourite winter resort with them. Hyeres 
 has deservedlv lost much of the reputation it once enjoyed, 
 for it lies at the mercy of the icv Mistral. Those who desire 
 bracing air, invigorating exercise, and a wide range of ex- 
 cursions on the Western Riviera, should choose Cap d'Antibes 
 or Bordighera for a prolonged stav : or if they prefer the 
 Eastern Riviera, Sestri Levante. Bordighera and Sestri Le- 
 vante afford ample facilities for excursions inland, while at 
 Antibes you mav enjoy delightful rambles on the hilly pro- 
 montorv and the rockv shore. 
 
 St. Raphael also, on the western slope of the Esterel, 
 deserves consideration as a spring resort. But its position 
 is inferior to that of the other places, and it is very much 
 exposed to the Mistral. Not till the beginning of April does 
 the wide valley of Frejus, which lies before us here, become 
 spring-like. Valescure, above St. Raphael, lies among Pine- 
 woods overlooking the vallcA' of the Argens, and command- 
 ing a view of the Montagues des Maures. In favourable 
 weather a short time mav be spent here. But the climate 
 is cool, and for this reason it was specially patronised by 
 the Romans as a summer resort. 
 
INTROULCTIUN. XV 
 
 Excursions into the Esterel are warmly recommended 
 to lovers of Nature. St. Raphael or Valescure, or better 
 still Le Travas, form excellent starting points. Visitors to 
 Lc Travas will be struck hv the red porphyry rocks rising 
 from the blue Mediterranean. Unfortunately, with the com- 
 pletion of the so-called ''Corniche d'Or", this hitherto un- 
 frequented district has become infested by motor cars. This 
 high road, which now skirts the foot of the Esterel, is hap- 
 pilv at some distance from the sea, so that one can still 
 wander unmolested on the purple shore. 
 
 Lasth', sturtiv pedestrians will fmd the Montagnes des 
 Maures a good district for extended excursions among the 
 evergreen woods. The ''Chemin de fer du Sud de la France'' 
 follows the coast, where manv a place invites one to linger. 
 The hotels here are patronised chieHy by BVench people. 
 These etablishments are not always as comfortable as might 
 be desired, but the cuisine is excellent. Several days might 
 be pleasantlv spent at vSte. Maxime and the tour continued 
 to Hveres and Toulon, terminating at Tamaris. This latter 
 ]:)lace is connected with Toulon bv local steamers. It is a small 
 winter resort and is situated inside the roadstead of Toulon. 
 Georges Sand once honoured it by a visit; but it is swept by the 
 Mistral and excursions are rendered difficult because all the 
 neighbouring hills are crowned with fortifications. 
 
 Last winter was exceedingly mild on the Riviera; there 
 was almost uninterrupted sunshine from January to the middle 
 of April. But this is not alwavs the case. The spring can 
 be verv rainv, and March is often the wettest month of the 
 whole vear. But as a rule bad weather does not last long, 
 and in anv case the climate of the Riviera in spring is more 
 endurable than north of the Alps. The sunny days of March 
 and April on that lovelv coast are beautiful beyond de- 
 scription, and are only too often the brightest of the whole 
 vear for us. So that, when spring approaches, an irresistible 
 lonofine for the shores of the Mediterranean comes over me. 
 
XVI INTRODUCTION. 
 
 It is true that, on returning home from one of these visits, 
 it is doubly hard when May, instead of promised delight, 
 brings only rain and cold. 
 
 There are but few districts in Europe which enjoy so 
 sunny a climate as does the Riviera — perhaps onlv Greece 
 and parts of south and central Spain. When it does begin 
 to rain on the Riviera the downpour is heavv, so that, strange 
 as it may appear, the yearlv rainfall in Nice is, on the average, 
 greater than that of Paris, Berlin and even London. As 
 much as 300 millimetres of rain has been known to fall in 
 twenty-four hours with a south-west wind. This wind, called 
 the Libeccio, rarely blows in winter. At this time of year 
 it is generally the south-west and east winds which bring 
 rain. We suffered much from the east wind, the Levant, 
 during several of our spring visits, but the Sirocco, the south- 
 east w^ind, is usually drv on the western Riviera. The Tra- 
 montane, or north wind, prevails in winter, and to it the 
 Riviera owes its sunnv climate. It is well for the traveller 
 if this wind should continue into the spring. It is hardly 
 to be felt in the sheltered spots of the Riviera as it strikes 
 the sea at a considerable distance from the shore, raising big 
 waves when it blows hard. The Mistral spreads fanwise 
 over the Mediterranean and strikes the Ponente from the 
 north-west. At times it blows very strongly in Nice, but 
 with less violence in Mentone, finallv dving out at Bordighera. 
 It always sweeps the sky clear, however cloudv, but leaves 
 it as it found it ; for the clouds rapidly gather again as soon 
 as the wind drops. In fine settled weather there is a light 
 land breeze on the Riviera in the morning, from the cooler 
 coast towards the warmer sea. The temperature of the land 
 then rises with the sunshine, whereupon the sea breeze sets 
 in, from the cooler sea towards the warmer land. It is well 
 to be careful at this time, for the temperature of the land 
 falls rapidly — often several degrees. At sunset also the air 
 cools very quickly in consequence of the sudden precipitation 
 
INTRODUCTION. XVII 
 
 of dew. Many Invalids feel an unpleasant chill then, which 
 mav prove injurious to them. But soon after sunset the 
 thermometer begins to rise again and a gentle breeze blows 
 from the slowly cooling land to the sea, which maintains a 
 more even temperature. This current of air lasts till the next 
 morning unless there is a change of weather. In winter and 
 early spring the difference in temperature between sun and 
 shade is so great that even strong people should beware of 
 chills and not go too lightly clad. Fogs are almost unknown 
 on the Riviera; the air is remarkably clear and, as a result, 
 the sky is of the deepest blue. Thus on this favoured shore 
 does Nature appear ever to wear her festal robes, and by 
 her radiance awaken in man the deepest feelings of joy 
 and hope. 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 /\t the beginning of the Preface, the Introduction and 
 each of the five Journeys which compose this book, there is 
 a vignette representing some particularly beautiful spot on 
 the Riviera. Thus at the head of the Preface (p. VIT) we have 
 the varied outline of the Esterel range which so charms us 
 from Golfe Jouan. At the beginning of the Introduction 
 (p. XI) the chain of the Maritime Alps is depicted, as seen 
 from the Cap d'Antibes. Then follows, as heading to the 
 First Journey, (p. 1) a view of the old town of Antibes, 
 with its works of defence, and the snow-clad Alps in the 
 background. The vignette in the Second Journey (p. 151) is 
 a coast scene of the purple rocks near Le Trayas ; while that 
 in the Third Journev (p. 215) represents the old town of Cannes 
 on the Mt. Chevalier. At the beginning of the Fourth Journev 
 (p. 265) is the glorious view over Mentone from the Pont 
 St. Louis ; and finally, as heading to the Fifth Journey 
 (p. 337), we have the promontory of Portofino, with a cloud\ 
 sky and a rough sea dashing its waves against the Marine 
 Parade of Nervi. 
 
 With one exception the plants chosen to illustrate this 
 volume are wild. They are nearly all species which blossom 
 in spring, and which attract the attention of even the unbot- 
 anical, either on account of their beauty of form, bright 
 colouring, strong scent or wide distribution. 
 
LIST OF ILLUvSTRATlONS. XIX 
 
 I have not figured anv cultivated plants, for their names 
 are easv to ascertain in the gardens of the Riviera. 
 
 It has not been found ]:)ossible to introduce the pictures 
 on the pages where the flowers are mentioned, therefore I 
 have spread them through the text in the alphabetical order 
 of the scientific names. 
 
 Acacia Farnesiana, from the Alortola Gardens, p. 5. 
 Acetabularia mediterranea, from the sea near the lie Ste. 
 
 Marguerite, gathered in Autumn, p. '•. 
 Adiantum Capillus \'eneris, from the Gorbio \'alley, p. 13. 
 Algae, see Marine Algae. 
 Anemone coronaria, from Mentone, p. 17. 
 Anemone pavonina, from Mentone, p. 21. 
 Anemone stellata, from the Cap d"Antibes, p. 25. 
 Anthocharis Euphenoides, male butterfly: the female is not 
 
 yellow, p. 143. 
 Anthvllis Barba jovis, from Beaulieu, p. 29. 
 Antirrhinum latifolium, irom the neighbourhood of \'ille- 
 
 franche, p. 33. 
 Arbutus Unedo, with unripe fruits, from Mentone. The fruits 
 
 ripen in October and November; then the tree begins 
 
 to flower again, p. 37. 
 Arisarum vulgare, two flowers, and leaf of Arum italicum, 
 
 from Mentone. p. 41. 
 Arum Arisarum, see Arisarum vulgare. 
 Arum italicum, leaf, and two flowers of Arisarum vulgare, 
 
 p. 41. 
 Asparagus acutifolius, from Sestri Levante; flowers in May, 
 
 p. 45. 
 Asphodelus ramosus, a branch of the inflorescence, from the 
 
 He Ste. Marguerite. (The closely related A. albus may 
 
 be found in the Esterel.) p. 49. 
 Bay Tree, see Laurus. 
 Bindweed, see Convolvulus. 
 
XX LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Bryopsis plumosa, from the harbour of Antibes, p. 53. 
 Buckthorn, see Rhamnus Alaternus. 
 Butterflies, see Anthocharis, Rhodocera, and Thais. 
 Callithamnion roseum, from the sea near the Cap d' Antibes, 
 
 p. 57. 
 Calycotome spinosa, from the Cap d'Antibes, p. 61. 
 Caper, see Capparis spinosa. 
 Capparis spinosa, from Grasse ; flowers in the autumn, 
 
 p. 65. 
 Centranthus ruber, from La Mortola, p. 71. 
 Cineraria maritima, from Nervi; flowers in January, p. 77. 
 Cistus albidus, from the Cap d'Antibes, p. 83. 
 Cistus monspeliensis, from the Cap d'Antibes, p. 89. 
 Cistus salviifoHus from Mentone, p. 95, 
 Cladophora laetevirens, from the sea at the Cap d'Antibes, 
 
 p. 101. 
 Cneorum tricoccum, from the Cap d'Antibes, p. 107. 
 Codium Bursa, from the Bay of Villefranche, p. 113. 
 Convolvulus althaeoides, from Mentone, p. 119. 
 Coriaria myrtifolia, from the high-road at La Mortola, 
 
 p. 125. 
 Cytisus triflorus, from Sestri Levante, p. 131. 
 Cystoseira ericoides, from the sea at Cap d'Antibes, p. 137. 
 Cytinus Hypocistis, from the Cap d'Antibes, p. 157. 
 Daphne Gnidium, from Mentone, p. 163. 
 Delesseria Hypoglossum, from the sea at Cap d'Antibes; 
 
 drawn from a dried specimen, p. 169, 
 Erica arborea, from Sestri Levante, p. 175, 
 Euphorbia spinosa, from the Cap d'Antibes, p. 181, 
 Galactites tomentosa, from Villefranche, p, 187, 
 Gladiolus segetum, from the Cap d'Antibes, p. 193, 
 Glaucium luteum, from the He St, Honorat, p, 201, 
 Globularia Alypum, from Mentone, p, 207. 
 Goat's-beard, see Tragopogon, 
 Halimeda Opuntia, from the sea at Nervi, p. 221. 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. XXI 
 
 Heath, see Erica. 
 
 Helichrvsum Stoechas, a portion of the under-shrub with 
 
 withered infructescense, from the Cap d'Antibes; flowers 
 
 in summer, p. 227. 
 Honeysuckle, see Lonicera. 
 Inula viscosa, with withered flower-heads of the previous year; 
 
 flowers at midsummer; p. 239. 
 Jasmine, see Jasminum. 
 
 Jasminum fruticans, from the Cap d'Antibes, p. 233. 
 Juniper, see Juniperus. 
 Juniperus, Oxycedrus; twig with half-ripe fruits, from Mentone, 
 
 p. 245. 
 Kermes Oak, see Quercus coccifera. 
 Laurel, see Laurus nobilis. 
 Laurus nobilis, twig with flowers and fruits, from Nice, 
 
 p. 251. 
 Laurustinus, see Viburnum Tinus. 
 Lavandula Stoechas, from Mentone, p. 257. 
 Lavatera arborea, from the Cap d'Antibes, p. 263. 
 Lavatera maritima, from the Pont St. Louis, Mentone, p. 271. 
 Lavender, see Lavandula. 
 
 Lonicera implexa, from the He Ste. Marguerite, p. 277. 
 Lotus ornithopodioides, from the Cap d'Antibes, p. 283. 
 Maiden hair fern, see Adiantum. 
 Mallow, see Lavatera. 
 Marine Algae, see Acetabularia, Bryopsis, Callithamnion, 
 
 Cladophora, Codium, Cistoseira, Delesseria, Halimeda, 
 
 Nitophyllum, Padina, Peyssonnelia, Sphacellaria. 
 Matthiola incana, from the Castle on the He St. Honorat, 
 
 p. 289. 
 Moricandia arvensis, from the side of the high road at La 
 
 Mortola, p. 295. 
 Narcissus Tazetta, from the neighbourhood of Antibes, p. 301. 
 Nitophyllum punctatum, from the sea at the Cap d'Antibes; 
 
 drawn from a dried specimen, p. 307. 
 
XXII LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Oak, see Quercus. 
 
 Ophrys Bertolonii, from the Park Sella at Antibes, p. 313. 
 
 Orchids, see Ophrys and Serapias. 
 
 Padina Pavonina, from the sea at the He St. Honorat, p. 319. 
 
 Passerina hirsuta, from the Cap d'Antlbes, p. 325. 
 
 Peysonnellia Squammaria, from the sea at the He St. Honorat, 
 
 p. 331. 
 Phillvrea angustifolla, from Mentone, p. 343. 
 Pistachia Lentlscus, from the Cap d' Antibes: staminate and 
 
 carpellary, p. 349. 
 Pitch Clover, see Psoralea. 
 Psoralea bituminosa, from the Villa Piuma, Sestri Levante 
 
 flowers in July, p. 355. 
 Quercus coccifera, a twig from the Cap d' Antibes, p. 359. 
 Quercus Ilex, a twig from the Cap d' Antibes, p. 363. 
 Red Valerian, see Centranthus ruber. 
 
 Rhamnus Alaternus : the staminate branch from Sestri Le- 
 vante, the carpellary, with infructescence, from the Cap 
 
 d' Antibes, p. 367. 
 Rhodocera Cleopatra, male butterfly : the female has no orange 
 
 patches on the forewings, and is like our Brimstone 
 
 (R. Rhamni), p. 143. 
 Rosmarinus officinalis, from Mentone, p. 371. 
 Rosemary, see Rosmarinus. 
 
 Salvia horminoides, from the Cap d' Antibes, p. 375. 
 Selaginella denticulata, from Mentone, p. 379. 
 Serapias Lingua, from Spezia, p. 383. 
 Smilax aspera, from Sestri Levante ; twig with half-ripe fruits, 
 
 p. 387. 
 Smyrnium Olusatrum, from the Gorbio valley, p. 391. 
 Snapdragon, see Antirrhinum. 
 Spanish Broom, see Spartium junceum. 
 Spartium junceum, from the Cap d'Antibes, p. 395. 
 Sphacellaria Scoparia, from the sea at the Cap d'Antibes, 
 
 p. 399. 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. XXII I 
 
 Spurge, see Euphorbia. 
 
 Strawberry tree, see Arbutus. 
 
 Stock, see Matthiola. 
 
 Thais Polyxena (Butterfly); both sexes are alike, p. 195. 
 
 Tragopogon australis, from the Park Sella Antibes, p. 403. 
 
 Tree Heath, see Erica Arborea. 
 
 Tulipa clusiana, from Mentone^ p. 407. 
 
 \^iburnum Tinus, from the Esterel, p. 411. 
 
 \^itex Agnus-castus, from St. Tropez ; flowers in summer, 
 
 p. 415. 
 Yellow horned Poppv, see Glaucium Luteum. 
 
FIKiST JOUMEY. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 it was the middle of March. We expected sunny 
 sprhig weather on the Riviera, and yet it rained per- 
 sistently. Day and night we heard the rain beating 
 against the windows, now heavih', now lightly, but always 
 with wearisome monotony so that the hours seemed inter- 
 minable to us. We laid our books aside disheartened. 
 Our recreations lost interest. We grumbled bitterly 
 about the weather. So man\' had hurried southwards 
 in the confident anticipation of finding the much extolled 
 blue sky on the other side of the Alps; and of seeing 
 the moonlight mirrored in the Midland Sea; and now 
 all our hopes were blighted. I, who had often spent the 
 spring in Italy before, regarded the situation with greater 
 equanimity. I knew that it often rained even in Italy 
 at this time of ^■ear. How could the lields and gardens 
 of Itah- bear fruit if they were not watered in spring 
 
SPRING x\T BORDIGHERA. 
 
 and late autumn, when the greatest drought prevails 
 during the remainder of the year? 
 
 What invariably draws me to the South in the 
 spring, in spite of these apparently not very favourable 
 prospects, is the longing for green fields and leafy trees, 
 sunshine and warmth; the assurance of finding by 
 the Mediterranean milder weather than in the North, 
 and the hope of enjoying many sunny days — perhaps, 
 if fortune favour, an uninterrupted series of such days. 
 After the long, bleak, cold, northern winter the contrast 
 is all the more agreeable. We rejoice over the scantiest 
 verdure and welcome every ray of sunshine. On the 
 other hand in the autumn many a dweller on the sun- 
 burnt plains of Lombardy longs for the fresh Alpine 
 meadows and the luxuriant forests. Autumn is usually 
 fine in our northern latitudes ; whereas our March and 
 April are justly notorious. This was the case on the 
 present occasion, for while letters and newspapers brought 
 us complaints of cold and snow north of the Alps, we 
 on the Mediterranean were before long enjo-\'ing the 
 most glorious sunshine. By Easter the weather had 
 become beautiful. Earth and sky assumed their festal 
 array, and were wrapped in the brightest effulgence. 
 
 Easter Sunday found me in Bordighera. Before 
 day-break I started to ascend the Monte Nero; but 
 remained spellbound on the Cap d'Ampeglio waiting for 
 the sunrise. Transfigured and spectral Corsica rose from 
 the deep in the far distance. My enchanted gaze first 
 rested upon it, and then wandered to the indented coast 
 which, curving in its wide sweep, seemed as though it 
 
SLNKIS1-: 1-KoM CAP DA.MPEGLiO 
 
 would enibratH' the sea. The east was ajTlow, and the 
 purple lii^dit tin<red the crests of the steel-blue waves 
 with its warm tones. Not a cloudlet flecked the sky, 
 which passed troni deepest blue above into tender green 
 as it neared the sea. Suddenl\- the red orb of the sun 
 rose, sending its tierv raws over the wide waters as 
 though to kindle a vast conflagration: and a thousand 
 ra\s penetrated the deep bays and dark valle^•s of the 
 coast, driving awa\- the shades of night. The houses 
 of Monaco blazed in the distance as though on fire, and 
 even remote Antibes threw back golden gleams as a 
 morning greeting to the sun. The whole landscape was 
 illuminated, and all Nature responded with a jubilant 
 thrill. Thus on that loveh' morning by the blue Mediter- 
 ranean did Heaven and Earth celebrate the festival of 
 the Resurrection. 
 
 I was lost in contemplation of this spectacle and 
 lieedless of the lapse of time, so that the sun stood high 
 in the sk\' before I resumed m\- wanderings. The whole 
 surface of the sea sparkled with innumerable lights as 
 though it were sprinkled with diamonds. Distant Corsica 
 gradualh' faded into a mist\' streak as if it had been 
 but a vision. Before me on the Cap d'Ampeglio la^' 
 Old Bordighera. now bathed in sunlight. 
 
 The ascent of Monte Xero is said to take two 
 hours — at least some people told me the\' had heard 
 so — tor in truth I did not succeed in finding anyone 
 who could boast of ever having been to the top. 
 Witliout some strong inducement the natives here hardh- 
 ever climb a m ountain of nny height ; onh' one passion 
 
 1 
 
MONTE NERO. 
 
 — that of shooting — will tempt them into such high 
 regions, although they find there only small birds to 
 satisfy their love of "sport". 
 
 So that after vainly seeking for a companion I had 
 to find my wav alone up Monte Nero. Then it turned 
 out after all that the summit is thickly wooded, and 
 consequently the much vaunted view is not to be had ; 
 in fact there is no free outlook in any direction. The 
 north slope of the mountain soon rewarded me richly 
 for the labour of the ascent. It led me to the Col 
 which connects Monte Nero with the much higher Monte 
 Caggio. From this clear point of vantage the gaze 
 could penetrate unimpeded into the deep valleys, range 
 over undulating hills, follow the long stretch of shore, 
 and lose itself in the distance over the sea. To the 
 east, beyond the long slope on which rests Coldirodi, 
 a part of San Remo can be seen ; in the north-west the 
 might}' giants of the Maritime Alps attract the eve with 
 their snow-clad tops. The dazzling white peaks stood 
 out with marvellous distinctness against the azure sky; 
 while lower down on the slopes, the dark green of the 
 Pines, whence Monte Nero takes its name, passes into 
 the lighter green of the Olives, and merges into the 
 luminous blue with which the endless waters of the sea 
 close up the horizon as with a wall. There are few 
 scenes, even in Itah', which can compare with this for 
 beauty. This view, in truth, combines all those elements 
 which may delight the eye, charm the aesthetic sense 
 and rouse the imagination. But the sight of yonder 
 Alpine snow-fields had turned the current of my thoughts 
 
FLOWERS AT BOkDK il IICRA. 
 
 northwards. \\']iat bitinq' cold niiq-ht not prevail be\'ond 
 those mountains! 1 lere, south ot their sheltering barrier, 
 
 spring had triumphed over winter. The 
 Resurrection ol Xature was accom- 
 and the pealing of the Easter bells, 
 was watted uj^) wards to Alonte Nero'"''' 
 the \'alle\s, seemed to bear onh' messages 
 of joy to the illuminated heights 
 above. 
 
 ^rhe prett\' garden ot the 
 Angst was in full luxuriance; the 
 beds resembled baskets of tlowers 
 The huge bushes of the Cape Pela 
 goniimi were covered with vermilioi 
 flowers, the Peruvian Heliotrope w: 
 trained up the house and filled the 
 air with its perfume of \"anilla. 
 Carnations, ^Mignonette and 
 vellow Tea Roses added their J. 
 fragrance. The leaves of ever- ' 
 green trees shone in the flood ( 
 light with metallic sheen, throwin; 
 sharph'-defined, dark-blue shado 
 on the paths. Under the droopine 
 foliage of the Palms, in the height 
 of bliss, sat a ncwh-mariied cou[" 
 who were fortunate enough t(j b 
 spending their honevmoon \i\ the 
 Mediterranean. This Easter Sunda\', 
 so saturated with sunshine and so Acacia rameuami. 
 
 great 
 
BORDIGHERA. 
 
 bedecked with flowers, on which Nature had lavished all her 
 treasures, would ever remain one of the brightest of their lives. 
 
 No fewer than four valleys debouch on the narrow 
 stretch of coast which lies between Cap d'Ampeglio and 
 Ventimiglia. For this reason Bordighera forms an ad- 
 mirable centre for excursions, which admit of great 
 variety. The accommodation at the Hotel Angst is so 
 good that one willingly prolongs one's stay there. 
 I cannot say whether Bordighera is also a suitable 
 resort for people suffering from chest complaints. Pro- 
 jecting as it does into the sea it is exposed to most 
 winds. Yet these, inasmuch as they blow across the 
 sea, are less cold and dry than those of many resorts on 
 the Riviera. Consequently those visitors who are in 
 search of recuperation — and their number is increasing 
 yearly on the Riviera — tind the sea breezes of Bordi- 
 ghera very bracing and invigorating. 
 
 Even on a short visit to Bordighera one ought not 
 to omit an excursion to Sasso, a small place perched on 
 the ridge which separates the valleys of Sasso and Bor- 
 ghetto. The whole ramble is not more than four kilo- 
 metres, whether you follow the vale of Sasso to the east 
 of Bordighera, or go straight up past Old Bordighera 
 and keep along the ridge. There is nothing worthy of 
 note in Sasso itself; the place looks pretty only from 
 a distance. Its high houses, welded together, as it were, 
 into a single mass, their outer walls pierced only by a 
 few windows, remind one of a fortress. And indeed these 
 places must originally have been built to resist the 
 attacks of pirates. Sasso looks specially picturesque when 
 
SASSO. — BOKGETTO. — VALLECRQCIA. 7 
 
 seen I'rom the road which runs along tlie ridi(e among 
 old trees. After climbing the steep ascent }'ou come 
 cjuite suddenh' upon this picture. On either side lie the 
 vallexs of Sasso and Borghctto. and further off that of 
 \'allecrocia; if ^•ou k)()k up, the snow clad summits of 
 the ^hlritime Alps gleam above the nearer liills. How 
 often have I lingered tor hours on this ridge, changing 
 my standpoint from time to lime to admire the view in 
 different settings I \ow it was a solitar\- and fantastic 
 snow-palace, framed in the silver\- green of the Olive 
 trees; or the closeh'-packed houses of a cheejuered hamlet 
 nestling in a valle\': or the silver course of a sparkling 
 stream winding its wixy to the sea through Oleander 
 bushes: or vSasso, which appeared to lloat above the tree 
 tops as on an ocean of verdure : till at last the wearied 
 e\-e turned with longing to the restful sea. What a wealth 
 of subjects for the landscape painter were here combined! 
 I had to content m^-self with a mental image of them 
 still fresh and vivid in its bright, sunny colouring. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 The Olive groves through which one passes on the 
 way from Old Bordighera to Sasso, are particularly fine. 
 There are man\- old and gnarled trunks, some of which 
 develop buttress-like outgrowths near the base and look 
 as if they were propped up. Involuntarily does one pause 
 before these trees to admire the striking contrast between 
 the trunks with their deep shades and the bright blue 
 of the sea and sk\-. These Olive groves have a subtle 
 charm of their own when the full moon shines over the 
 
 1* 
 
THE OLIVE. 
 
 sea. With every breath of whid the dull grav leaves gleam 
 peculiarly and the moon's silver ravs glitter amongthe foliage. 
 The moon's long path over the water seems to be instinct with 
 life, undulating with the waves, following them in their course, 
 and breaking with them into glittering foam on the shore. 
 The flowering season of the Olive is in May or June. 
 The trees are then thickly covered with small, yellowish- 
 white flowers, which emit a pleasant, migonette-like per- 
 fume. These flowers remind us of those of the Privet, 
 JLiQ-ustrum vul^'are, a shrub which is closeh" related to 
 the Olive. The unripe fruits of the Olive are green, and 
 are therefore inconspicuous among the foliage : but as 
 they ripen they become blue-black, and stand out dis- 
 tinctly, especially when the crop is good. Heavy crops 
 are expected every five years. The aspect of the whole 
 tree is altered when thus laden with the oval berries which 
 peep out everywhere from among the foliage. In form 
 and colour ripe olives are not unlike our sloes. Accor- 
 ding to an ancient custom, not now universally obeyed, 
 the olive harvest should begin on November 21 *^- It 
 lasts through the whole winter and is at its height in 
 February and March, though when the crop has been 
 retarded by unfavourable conditions, trees laden with 
 fruit may be seen even in April in the higher districts. 
 Then men and women are to be seen with sacks and 
 baskets wending their way along the paths which lead 
 to the Olive groves. Here the men climb up into the 
 trees and strike the branches with long rods. The wan- 
 derer in the Olive grove hears this rattling sound on all 
 sides, and from time to time there is the sharp crack of 
 
OLIVE HARN'KSTING. 
 
 a breaking bough when the stroke has been too hard. vSheets 
 are often spread under the trees to catch the falling fruits : 
 or else women and children squat on the ground and pick up 
 the berries one bv one, using both hands. One is astonished 
 at the deftness of these olive-gatherers and at their ability 
 to remain so long in a cramped position. This method of 
 knocking down the fruit must be injurious to the trees. As 
 far back as the first centur}^ A. D., Plin\' protested against 
 the clumsy custom. Yet how else could they harvest the 
 olives here where the trees are of considerable height? The 
 dense foliage and the unevenness of the ground make it 
 almost impossible to use ladders. It is different in Provence 
 where the trees are kept low by careful pruning in order that 
 the berries may be gathered bv hand. These hand-picked 
 being unbruised and uninjured, ^'ield the 
 table oil. But how unsightly are those 
 Provencal Olive plantations with 
 their straight rows of trees of 
 uniform size. No friend 
 of the Riviera would wish 
 ^^^^?^v ^^ sacrifice the lovely 
 Olive groves, \\'hich 
 lend such a charm to the 
 scenery, for the sake of the 
 / better oil. A fine qualitv of oil is 
 expressed from those fruits which ripen 
 A ^».'. first. But in J?ordighera the pea- 
 sants wait until the greater por- 
 tion of the olives are ripe, and 
 
 Acetabiilaria mediteirane.i. h\ that tiuie lUUcll of the CrOp 
 
10 THE OLIVE. 
 
 will have fallen to the ground of its own accord. The 
 whole is then gathered up together, and accordingly 
 yields an inferior oil with a rancid flavour. Generally 
 speaking, on the whole stretch of coast between Bordi- 
 ghera and the Esterel only oil of inferior quality- is pro- 
 duced, such as is used for lubricating or in the manu- 
 facture of soap. The finest oil of the Riviera comes from 
 the province of Porto Mauritzio. The variet}' of Olive 
 grown there is called "Taggiasca", because the romantic 
 little town of Taggia near San Remo is the centre of 
 its cultivation. In the south of Italy the oil of Apulia 
 is highly esteemed. But it has not enjoyed its reputation 
 for very long, as formerly even Apulian oil was as bad, 
 and tasted as rancid as other Italian kinds. For in Apulia 
 from time immemorial slovenly methods of cultivating 
 the Olive have prevailed, and the oil presses used were 
 so bad that an ancient model found in Pompeii was 
 considered an improvement and actually adopted in several 
 places. 
 
 In order to yield the best table-oil the berries must 
 be freshly gathered and carefully selected. They are 
 then spread out in thin layers on frames, where they are 
 dried in the air or by artificial heat, until they shrivel. 
 When they have lost some of their moisture by this process, 
 they are sent to the mill where the stones are separated 
 from the pulp, which is then placed in bast or jute sacks 
 and carried to the press. Here the purest salad-oil, "olio 
 vergine", trickles out. Then by the application of gra- 
 dually increasing pressure the "superfine" and "fine" qua- 
 lities are expressed. Once again the pulp is returned to 
 
OLlX'i: OIL. 11 
 
 the oil-mill, in which the stones are also crushed. From 
 this only an inferior kind of oil can be extracted. For 
 a third time the oil-mill is set going and comploteU' 
 grinds up the sediment, which has been previously mixed 
 with water. The oil lloats on the surface of the water 
 and is drawn off. This, being of still less value, is mainly 
 used in the manufacture of soap. And lastly the remains 
 of the stones and pulp are turned to account as fuel, in 
 this land where fire-wood is scarce. 
 
 Even the purest table oil that llows from the press 
 has to be carefulh' strained before it is readv for sale. 
 It is poured into vats which are stood one above the 
 other in a dark place. The unclarified oil in the upper- 
 most vat finds its way out at the bung-hole, having 
 previousU' passed through wadding cased in perforated 
 zinc, and flows into a second vat, and from this, having 
 again passed through wadding, into a third. This 
 wadding must be changed several times in the day. 
 From the third vat the oil runs into cisterns, which in 
 Xice are lined with porcelain. The oil has to remain 
 in these three months before it is bottled and exported. 
 
 The value of each different qualit\- of oil is fixed 
 b\' a "Degustateur'' (taster), whose palate is as highly 
 trained as is that of the wine or tea taster. The De- 
 gustateur not only gives his judgment on the sorts which 
 he tests, but he must also be able to detect adulteration 
 by other vegetable oils. 
 
 Most picturesque are the old oil-mills which one 
 meets with on the rushing streams in the ravines around 
 Bordighera. Shaded b}- old trees and overgrown with 
 
12 THE OLIVE. 
 
 moss and ferns, they have an intersting and venerable 
 appearance, Thither the small peasant proprietors of 
 Bordighera convey their crop and pay the miller either 
 in oil or in olives. A liquid from these mills dyes the 
 streams brown so that the sea is discoloured at their 
 mouths. 
 
 An qld Roman proverb runs: — "extra oleas vagari" — 
 to wander beyond the Olives; or, as we should sav, to 
 exceed or go bevond bounds. The meaning of this 
 saying is explained by the ancient custom of planting 
 Olive trees to mark boundaries. 
 
 It was said of the Olive in ancient times that it 
 would flourish only near the sea, and that it never grew 
 more than three hundred stadia (seven and a half geo- 
 graphical miles) inland. But the fact is that the equable 
 climate w^hich is necessary to its full development is pro- 
 duced by the proximity of wide expanses of water. The 
 tree cannot stand prolonged frost. The Olive is indi- 
 genous in the Mediterranean region as is shown by the 
 recent discovery of its leaves in the pliocene deposits 
 of Mongardino, 18 kilometres north west of Bologna. 
 The fact of the wild Olive being indigenous to Italy is 
 thus indubitably established. On the other hand its intro- 
 duction as a cultivated plant was comparatively late. 
 For Pliny mentions that according to the chronicler 
 Fenestella, there was not a single cultivated Olive to 
 be seen in Italy in the time of Tarquinius Priscus, that 
 is, about 580 B. C. It may well have reached Latium, 
 however, in the time of the Tarquins as there was brisk 
 traffic then with the Greeks of Campania. It is also pro- 
 
US INTRODUCTION. 
 
 13 
 
 bable that the culti- 
 vation of the 
 ()li\e oricri- 
 nated in the 
 Kast and spre- 
 ad over Egypt, 
 Syria and Asia 
 -; Minor. rcachingGreece 
 in pre -Homeric ti- 
 mes, l^he culti- 
 vation of tliis in- 
 valuable tree may 
 have reached the Li- 
 gurian coast even 
 , ^y earlier tlian it did 
 Latium. For it is stated 
 that the Phoenicians brought 
 it in 680 B. C. to Massilia, the 
 modern Marseilles. Thence it must 
 forthwith have spread both inland 
 ind along the coast. 
 
 On the Riviera tlie Olive tree 
 
 O^ ( ^ finds tlie calcareous soil which it 
 
 i loves, lint it can also tlourish here on 
 
 Adiantttm A"^ \ olcauic soil. In any case it is not very 
 
 Cafillus 
 J'eneris. 
 
 exacting, and is content with a tliin layer 
 
 of eartli resting immediateh- upon rock, 
 liut in order to \ield heavy crops the tree retjuires better 
 ground, where it can be trenched and manured at inter- 
 vals of a few years. In addition to the ordinar\' manures, 
 
14 THE OLIVE FLY 
 
 the horns and hoofs of domestic animals, and old woollen 
 rags are used in Bordighera for this purpose. 
 
 When wandering among the olive groves of Bor- 
 dighera in the spring, care must be taken to avoid the 
 shots of the "Cacciatori", for at this time of the year 
 these "sportsmen" invade every grove, garden and glade 
 in order to shoot small birds — the only game to be 
 had. This passion has very serious consequences on the 
 Italian Riviera, and indeed throughout the whole of 
 Italy, for the destruction of the birds results in a corre- 
 sponding increase of insects. Not only do the cheerful 
 songsters which gladden the woods and gardens of 
 other lands, disappear from Italy, but the number of 
 insect pests is seriouslv augmented. 
 
 Dacus oleae, the Olive fly, is especially injurious, as 
 it feeds on the pulp of the olives. It is called by the 
 French "La Mouche", and by the Italians "Macha del 
 Olivo". This liv lays its eggs in the very young berries; 
 and the grubs, when they hatch, live on the maturing 
 fruit. Should these worm-eaten olives be taken to the 
 mill, thev depreciate the quality of the oil. 
 
 From a ramble among the Olives one generally 
 returns with a bouquet of gay flowers. For on the 
 Riviera these spring gifts of Flora are too attractive to 
 be hurriedly passed by. The dark-blue musk-scented 
 Grape Hyacinths are to be seen everywhere under the 
 trees. JShiscari comosum, a species bearing an amethyst- 
 coloured tuft above its otherwise inconspicuous inflores- 
 cence, is very pretty. Orchids are common among the 
 grass, especially an Ophrvs, one of those remarkable 
 
ORCI in )S. 1 5 
 
 species whose flowers resemble insects. O. aranifera 
 reminds us of a spider, and we seem to see the outspread 
 legs and fat body of one of these creatures. Another 
 species of Ophrvs is like a spider with a purplish-brown 
 hodv ornamented with green. Hut far and awav the 
 ])rettiest of them all is Op/irvs JJcr/o/o/nV (Fig. p. 313). It is 
 also so peculiar that it has at all times attracted the 
 attention even of the peasantry. The Ligurians, when 
 referring to it sa\': — "Oxletti che se spegian", and 
 indeed it looks as though a little green bird had settled 
 in the middle of the flower, and bending over, was 
 looking at itself in a mirror. This little bird has both 
 head and beak, and even two red eyes in their proper 
 position. Five pink petals are attached to its graceful 
 body as wings and tail, while the mirror is borne on 
 the sixth petal, which is of a dark purplish-red colour. 
 This latter is much larger than the other petals, turned 
 down and convex; it is called the lip, or labellum, of 
 the flower. Its upper surface is velvety with the ex- 
 ception of a spot which represents the mirror. Here 
 the surface is smooth and of a bright silvery grey. 
 Scientifically speaking this little bird-like object is a 
 remarkable development of the Gvnostemium. By Gvno- 
 stemium is meant that little column which, in orchids, 
 is formed by the adhesion of three stamens to three 
 styles. Only one stamen is fertile; its anther forms the 
 head of the bird; the two anther-lobes the e"ves; the 
 connective projects and forms the beak. The shin\- 
 spot on the labellum is due to a reflecting la\'er of 
 air intercalated in the tissue. Light is reflected from 
 
16 WILD FLOWERS. 
 
 this layer as though from the metal coating of a 
 looking-glass. 
 
 Another curious Orchid, Scrapias Lingua (Fig. p. 383), 
 is often to be met with on grassy slopes of the 
 Riviera. Its reddish - brown flowers are almost hidden 
 in red bracts, showing only the projecting lip. The 
 flower-lover will be delighted with a tulip Tiilipa Clusiaiia 
 (Fig. p. 407), which has white flowers striped on the 
 outside with red. These are raised on long stalks. The rose- 
 red blossoms of the Gladiolus segetum (Fig. p. 193), which 
 are arranged on one side of the stem, light up the fresh 
 green of the meadows and lields. Allium neapolitaimm, 
 with its white flowers, gathered from the outskirts of the 
 garden will be a welcome addition to a bouquet: for it 
 has a pleasant perfume, although belonging to the Garlics. 
 But it is the ^•ellow Tazetta {Xarcissiis Tazetta, Fig. p. 301 ) 
 which lends the choicest fragrance to the boue{uet, 
 while the Anemones {A. coronaria, Fig. p. 17, stellata. 
 Fig. p. 25, and pavonina. Fig. p. 21), supply brilliant 
 colouring. 
 
 The culture of the Vine dates back as far as that 
 of the Olive ; hence thev have always been mentioned 
 together. In his Natural Histor^■ the elder Pliny says 
 that "Two liquids are particularly beneflcial to the human 
 bodv — internallv wine, externallv oil ; both are derived 
 from the \^egetable World and are excellent, but oil 
 is the more necessary". When the Emperor Augustus 
 asked the centenarian Pollio Romilius by what means 
 he had kept himself so hale, he replied, "By wine and 
 honev internallv, and oil externallv". The ancients 
 
North Carolina State Library 
 '^ Raleigh AWN 
 
 TBI-: NINE. 
 
 17 
 
 nibbed tlioir bodies with o\\ alter batliin^"; now-a-days 
 oil is no lono"er in voi4"ue as an external application, 
 unless it be in the lorni of Marseilles oil-soap. This 
 (iraeco-Eastern use of oil survives onh- in the solemn 
 anointini:^ of a monarch and in extreme unction. In 
 France the anointing of the Kings at Rheims was per- 
 formed with great pomp well into the last centur\', al- 
 though the vial (la sainte ampoule) of Clodwig, which ac- 
 
 cording to legend was brouifht 
 heaven b\- a dove, was 
 the time of the Revolution, 
 known to the ancients, who 
 oil for anointing their bodies, 
 is a northern in^'ention. 
 
 As in Plin^■"s book the Olive 
 and \ ine are mentioned side hv ^%^ 
 side, so also on the Riviera are 
 thev to be met with side b^• side. 
 The Olive predominates, however, / 
 in the immediate vicinit\' of the 
 sea, while the \'ine on the 
 contrar\' shuns the shore. But 
 it is less sensitive to cold 
 and can therefore be ^ 
 grown further north. Thus ^^^^^^^ s^ v .^ 
 in the Middle Ages the u_S^ — t^ 
 cultivation of the \'ine "Qt/^^^^.i^'V /*^ penetra- 
 ted as far north as P>ast (1^,7^ V^ Prussia. 
 and even as far as Tilsit: V %^^ ihhI the .Vb- 
 bevs of Uetersen and Preetz. 
 
 down from 
 shattered at 
 Soap, un- 
 made use of 
 
 Aiiciiioiic cofonttfia. 
 
18 THE VINE. 
 
 in Schleswig-Holstein possessed a few vineyards. If the 
 Vine retreated, later on, in a westerly and southerly 
 direction it was mainly because it was compelled to give 
 way to more profitable crops. 
 
 On the Riviera the Vine flowers in April. As far 
 as climate is concerned it would here yield a rich return; 
 but the Phylloxera, as well as parasitic fungi, have done 
 much damage, with the result that other crops have 
 superseded the Vine to a great extent. Hence it is that 
 vineyards are not often to be seen in the frequented 
 parts of the Riviera, and the wine that is made here is 
 used mainly b\' the natives. 
 
 The civilised nations found the Vine also indigenous 
 on European ground. And even today the plant seems 
 to occur in a wild state both north and south of the 
 Alps. It would be hard to prove that these wild plants 
 have not escaped from cultivation. But the evidence of 
 Palaeobotany is quite conclusive on this point. For it 
 shows that in the Middle-Tertiarv period — the time 
 when the brown coal was formed — the Vine inhabited 
 our part of the world. Thev were species 'similar to 
 those now living in America. Fossil remains of our 
 present Vine ( V^i'tis viuifera) occur as early as in the 
 alluvial tufas of northern France and the travertine of 
 Italy. At that period of our earth's development the 
 vegetation of southern Europe already bore much resem- 
 blance to our own, although the Elephant, Rhinoceros 
 Cave Bear and Urus had not vet been driven out of 
 those districts by man. Moreover grape-pips have been 
 found in the Lake Dwellings of Lake \'arese — a proof 
 
Wll.l) \INES. 19 
 
 that llu' Lake Dwellers of the lironze Age were fond of 
 <rra]H's I It is established be^•ond a doubt hv Engler's 
 e\iiausti\e researches that the wild Nine extended over 
 the whole ot Southern and a part ot Central Europe 
 before it was introduced tliere as a culti\ated ]")lant. .\t 
 present the \ ine is found nourishing luxurianth' in the 
 districts around tlie Hlack Sea: and von Steven aHirms 
 tliat localh' in the L'riniea wine is still made from the 
 black, acid berries of the wild Vine. \'ictor Ilehn de- 
 scribes in glowing terms tliose fertile districts south of the 
 Caspian Sea where thick-stemmed \ ines climb to the 
 top of tlie highest trees in the heart of the forest, and 
 stretching from branch to branch festoon their summits 
 and tempt the wanderer with their heavy bunches of 
 fruit. Eupfler saw the \ ine "■rowing' as a thick Liana 
 in the dense woods of Bajukdere near Constantinople. 
 The cultivation of the \'ine seems from all appearances 
 to have originated in the A\'est of Asia Minor, and 
 O. Schrader considers it highh- probable that we owe 
 its introduction to an Indo-European people. 
 
 Among the wines of the western Riviera those of 
 Massilia were known even in ancient times. TheA' were 
 however without an^' special keeping properties and had 
 therefore to be -'smoked'". This, according to Eastern 
 and Greek custom, took jilace in tumigating chambers 
 The process was in realit\- identical with the present 
 da\- ''I'asteurisation". As toda\- we heat the wine to at 
 least ()0" C in order to kill the germs and thus 
 increase its keeping properties, so the ancients subjected 
 it to the action of hot air. From a lower chamber. 
 
20 WINES. 
 
 where a fire was burning, the hot air ascended through 
 a pipe to the upper chamber in which the wine stood. 
 The flavour of the wine could not be injured in the 
 process as it was in well covered vessels. But what 
 would be the flavour of that wine to which sea water 
 had been added, while vet unfermented 1 This was a 
 very common practice among the ancient inhabitants of 
 Asia Minor and Greece. Gypsum, marble, clay, pitch 
 and resin were also added to make the wine keep 
 longer and to improve its flavour. Yet Pliny said that 
 the most wholesome wine was that which contained no 
 foreign matter, for even the strongest man must distrust 
 such admixtures as marble, gypsum, and lime. Plin^' 
 complains particularh' of the wine-trade ; it had reached 
 such a pitch that the price of wine was regulated solelv 
 according to the repute of the dealer, and that the un- 
 fermented liquor was adulterated even in the wine-press. 
 So that, strange as it mav seem, the least renowned 
 wines were often the most harmless. The mixing of sea 
 water with wine is recommended bv Plinv as very whole- 
 some. His warning to those who do not wish to grow 
 stout reminds one of a new and well-known cure, which 
 consists in drinking little or nothing at meal time. Bv 
 decoctions and infusions of herbs the ancients also tried 
 to increase the keeping properties of wine, just as we 
 do now-a-days by the addition of alcohol. Aromatic 
 grasses of the genus Andropogon were esteemed as spices 
 to impart a flavour to the clay drinking cups known by 
 the name of "'Rhodian goblets''. All this would scarcelv 
 appeal to our modern taste. Yet the Romans of the 
 
\\1NI-: IN ROMAN TIMES. 
 
 21 
 
 Anemone /aioiii/i 
 
 later Empire must have 
 been remarkable connoisseurs, 
 tor tlie variet\" of wines offered 
 for sale then was almost imlimited, 
 V^irgil likens their number to the sands 
 of the LAbian Desert, or to the waves 
 of the sea. Whereas it was formerh' 
 the custom to dilute wine with water, the 
 Romans, at the time of the Emperors nearly 
 alwa\'s drank it pure. Thev cooled several -^ 
 
 kinds with ice, as we do now, and began to \^ 
 value old vintages. Good wines had to be from 
 eight to ten years old to be esteemed by them, 
 and accounts are preserved of wines as much as 
 200A'earsold. Thus the Emperor Caligula (37 — 41 A. D.) 
 relished a wine of the year 121 B. C. — the best 
 Italian vintage on record in those davs. Itah' was 
 the land which in PHn\'s time produced the most 
 highly valued wines ; so that he might well assert 
 that, bA' virtue of their merit, she ranked above all other 
 countries, and was onh- excelled bv them in the pro- 
 duction of perfumes; nevertheless, he adds, there is no 
 fragrance more delightful than that of the llowering 
 
22 THE MXE. 
 
 Vine. Even in Roman times Vines were pruned ac- 
 cording to recognised rules, though the method of train- 
 ing the plant varied with the district. In Campania 
 thev allowed it to climb up the Poplar trees. Winding 
 among the branches, in its luxuriant growth, it embraced 
 the tree lovingly as it ascended to the summit. Not un- 
 frequently did the vintager, when hired, stipulate with 
 his employer, in addition to his pay, for a funeral pile 
 and a monument in case lie should meet with a fatal 
 accident while gathering the grapes. A single V^ine 
 would often completely cover a whole country house 
 with its clinging stems; and in Rome one could stroll in 
 the Colonnade of Livia shaded bv a mighty Vine which 
 yielded twelve ampliorae of wine. In man^' districts of 
 Italy the V^ines were trained on poles ; in others they 
 were permitted to trail along the ground. A similar 
 diversity is seen in the modern Italian methods of culti- 
 vation. "Here", says Plin^', "the grape hangs with 
 purple bloom among the green leaves, or glows rose-red, 
 or droops in softest green. In one place the berries 
 are round, in another oval, here large, there small, here 
 hard and thick-skinned, there juicy and thin-skinned". 
 Bunches of grapes were often hung on strings indoors 
 that they might keep the longer, and others were steeped 
 in sweet wine and thus soaked in their own juice. 
 
 After the fall of Rome the cultivation of the Mne 
 declined in Italy. The grapes were gathered in a slo- 
 venly way, carelessly pressed, and the must was allow- 
 ed to lie too long on the lees, so that the wine should 
 assume that dark colour, which was then preferred. 
 
BORDIGHERA. 23 
 
 Wines of this sort would not keep long and were there- 
 fore not sought after abroad. Hut ^uite latelv this state 
 of things is beginning to alter. Wine -growing is in- 
 creasing in Ital\' and being dealt with ver\' succcssfull\-. 
 The old custom of transporting wine in skins and 
 then storing it in amphorae lias vanislied from Itah'. 
 Wooden casks, which were used bv tlie Cis-alpine (jfauls 
 and tlie Alpine tribes, were introduced into South Italy 
 as earlv as in Roman times. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Bordighera ever remains pictured in the mind in a 
 setting of Palms and indeed these trees thrive nowhere 
 better on the whole Riviera. 'rhe\' lend to the place 
 a touch of enchantment and spread an Eastern glamour 
 around. On the East side of the Cap d'Ampeglio the\- 
 form actual groves. Within the walls of tliese gardens 
 rich in I'alm trees, and on patlis over which the slender 
 stems wave their crowns, the wanderer feels liimself 
 transported to another world and forgets for a time that 
 between the Riviera and the land of Oases lies the vast 
 expanse of tlie Mediterranean Sea. Odvsseus "when 
 first he set eves on the Palm at Delos b\' tlie altar of 
 Phoebus Apollo, stood lost in enchantment, for sureh' 
 nowhere on earth is there a tree more beautiful". With 
 reverence do German travellers visit that picturesque 
 group of Palms which adorn the sea shore east of 
 Bordighera at the Madonna della Ruota. For these are 
 the trees Scheffel sang of in his poem "Dem Tode nah" 
 and under which he lono-ed to be laid to rest. There 
 
24 BORDIGHERA. 
 
 are about 20 of them (not twelve as the poet says) 
 grouped round an old well, and their position in this 
 wild, solitary spot washed bv the sea waves may indeed 
 inspire the wanderer with poetic sentiments. The de- 
 scription of this place sketched in the '"Motifs artistiques 
 de Bordighera" by Charles Garnier, Architect of the 
 Grand Opera at Paris and of the Casino at Monte Carlo, 
 shows that not only German genius has been inspired 
 here. The style of the description is certainly rather 
 flowery and reminds one of those tiorid decorations 
 which adorn his magnificent buildings. "This is the 
 place (he writes) which you should visit, \e Artists; 
 this is the spot which you must see, ye Poets: this is 
 the nook which must hold you spell-bound, all ye who 
 seek for living and vivid impressions, and who feel that 
 the pulse beats higher in the contemplation of Nature. 
 Should recollections of the East be awakened within 
 you when you wander in Old Bordighera and its sur- 
 roundings, think not that you are standing there before 
 a comparison, nor ^•et before a resemblance. No! all 
 Judaea is embodied in this impression. There is the 
 well of the woman of Samaria, or of Rebecca; those are 
 the Jews, the Apostles; Jerusalem, Nazareth, Bethlehem 
 lie before \'ou on that modest promontory of Bordi- 
 ghera". The storm-lashed Date Palms round this old 
 well with the never-to-be-forgotten background of sea, 
 have supplied innumerable painters with subjects for 
 impressive pictures. 
 
 There was much excitement in artistic circles when 
 it became known that the place had been bought by 
 
PALAIS OF BORDIGHERA. 
 
 aid out 
 roundings. 
 
 the German Landscape-gardener, Ludwig Winter, and 
 was to be turned into a garden. Rut it was hardly to 
 be expected that this piece of ground should remain 
 long unused in such a thickh' populated district. It 
 must be considered especialh" fortunate that this lovely 
 spot should have fallen unto appreciative hands. I lerr 
 \\'inter has left in its primitive condition that little pro- 
 jection of the coast, on which 
 Scheffel's Palms grow: and he has 
 the garden in harmony with its sur- 
 Anemones, Reseda, Carnations and 
 luxurianth' blossoming Rose bushes 
 now adorn the slope. Tall Palms 
 rise from the soil which was for- 
 merly bare; and round a large 
 tank a Pergola has been construc- 
 ted, to whose pillars the Date Palm 
 lies the architectural motive. 
 
 In the Old Testament the Date Palms 
 are likened to the proud daughters of 
 kings. But the Date Palms in the 
 gardens of Bordighera are not all as 
 )eautiful as this. The fault lies in the treat- 
 ment to which most of these trees are subjected. 
 Every year part of their fronds is removed. The 
 Bresca famih", of San Remo, received from Pope 
 Sixtus V, in the sixteenth centur\-, the privilege 
 of supplying Rome with Palm -fronds for Palm 
 ^ Sunday. This was nominalh- as a reward to 
 Ane,„o»e \ ieiiata. Captain Brcsca. who, while the obelisk 
 
26 PALMS OF BORDIGHERA. 
 
 was being erected on the Piazza San Pietro in 1586, and the 
 dry rope was sagging, helped the builder Fontana out of 
 his dilemma by his timely shout of ''Water on the rope". 
 The Bresca family grew their Palms in Bordighera 
 because they thrive better in the sandy cla}' there, than 
 in the heavy clay of San Remo. Thus the Palm indus- 
 try of Bordighera dates back to the Middle Ages, and 
 even today it is this place that supplies most of the 
 Palm-fronds in Rome for the celebration of Easter 
 Sunday. The Christian Church has adopted the Palm- 
 frond, as it has so many other s}'mbols of Oriental 
 imagery, from the Pagans and the Jews. And as Palm- 
 fronds graced the Feast of Osiris in Egypt, the'triumphal 
 entries of kings and heroes into Jerusalem and the 
 Olympic Games of Greece, so today they are used to 
 decorate the altars of Roman Catholic churches. 
 
 Instead of spreading their crowns freely in the air, 
 most of the Palms of Bordighera have their inner fronds 
 bound up together like the tail of a horse. The object 
 is to produce a special development of the young 
 growing leaves. Not all Palms are equally adapted to 
 such treatment, and a distinction is made between those 
 which are suitable for the Roman Catholic Church and 
 those which are adapted to the Jewish ritual. For the 
 Jews also use Palm-fronds at their Feast of Tabernacles. 
 The natives of Bordighera call the one Palm briefly 
 "Cattohca" and the other "Ebrea". The leaves of the 
 Roman Catholic Palm are slender, and those of the 
 Jewish Palm short and compact. Li the "CattoUca" the 
 heart of the crown is bound tig-hth' tosfether so that the 
 
MYKTIJC AND WILLOW AS -'PALMS". 27 
 
 new fronds develop in complete darkness and thus 
 become as colourless as possible, lor on I'ahn vSunda\' 
 the\' are to be not onh' s\'mbols of victor\- but also of 
 heavenlv puritw In the darkness these fronds i^row 
 long and slender: the\' run to a point and remain tender 
 and supple, so that the\' can easih' be plaited into 
 any desired shape. In the Jewish Palms the older fronds 
 are bound toi^ether, but less tighth', so that the light is 
 not completeh- excluded from the \-ounger ones and the\- 
 can become green : but the\- remain shorter, stiffer and 
 less pointed. At the Feast of Tabernacles the Jews 
 combine Myrtle and Willow with the Palm-fronds and, 
 while waving these bunches in their right hand, hold 
 "Paradise Apples" in their left. This \vas original h the 
 harvest festival of the Jews: but during their exile in 
 foreign lands it lost this meaning, retaining only the 
 other, also handed down from antiquit\', namely commem- 
 oration of the Divine protection during the wanderings 
 in the Desert. The most varied symbolical meanings 
 have been attached to the ceremonial use of these four 
 plants: they may perhaps have been representative of 
 the vegetation of Palestine, but later on the\' fell under 
 the intiuence of rigid ecclesiastical law, which prescribed 
 that the Myrtle and Willow, as also the Palm, should 
 be of a certain detinite shape. Myrtles are specialh' 
 grown for the orthodox Jew. The twig must be about 
 three hand-breadths high and bear its leaves in whorls 
 of three. Should the whorls be lax, and the leaves not 
 attached at the same level, the twig is rejected. It 
 would be better to use sprays on which the leaves were 
 
28 THE DATE PALM. 
 
 in twos and strictly opposite. This kind is permissible 
 in case of need, but is less highh' prized than the real 
 "Hadassah". 
 
 The Roman Catholic Church has shown itself much 
 more indulgent with reference to the Palms required on 
 Palm Sunday. In northern lands the Box and even the 
 catkin-bearing Willow have replaced the Palm. On the 
 Moselle the Box is actually called "Palm" : this designa- 
 tion recurs for the same reason in the Caucasus. The 
 ceremonial sprays of Willow are also called "Palm" in 
 Sclavonic countries. In Pliny's day, at the commence- 
 ment of our era, the Date Palm was not unconnnon in 
 Italy. It must however have disappeared again during 
 the barbaric centuries of the earlier Middle Ages, for the 
 painters of the end of the twelfth century seem to have 
 had no actual acquaintance with it. Otherwise Giotto 
 would not have represented the Palm trees in his "Christ's 
 entry into Jerusalem" as bearing their leaves singly all 
 up the trunk. 
 
 The fruits of the Date Palm are as a rule hard and 
 uneatable on the Riviera. They require the scorching breath 
 of the Desert to become soft and sweet. According to 
 George Schweinfurt the sweetest and most tender dates 
 ripen in a district that enjoys a mean temperature of at 
 least 20 — 22 C, and in which there is a minimum rainfall. 
 The Date Palm finds these conditions in the Oases of 
 Algeria and Tunis, where it has from time immemorial 
 been properly managed. It is there propagated onl}' 
 hv offsets, for in this manner the purity of the stock is 
 assured and the carpellary plants are obtained with cer- 
 
ITS POLLINATION. 
 
 29 
 
 taint\'. I'ieces of the staniinatc inflorescence are fastened 
 in amoni»- tlie carpellarv llowers to ensure pollination. One 
 staminate usually suffices for 25 carpellarv plants. Each 
 of these latter produces on an average twelve bunches 
 of fruit, and nvdv \ield as much as fifteen kilos of dates. 
 The Arab prefers a harder and less sugarv kind of date 
 as food, for in the long run he tires of the sweet, soft date. 
 
 Each pistillate flower of the Date Palm contains 
 three carpels, and later on all these begin to develop. 
 This happens even when pollination fails. Thus a fruit 
 with three blind carpels results in case oi iL' S^ 
 non-pollination. These never come to ma- ^ ^^^-^^ 
 turit\-, and never acquire the proper 
 flavour, and are almost worthless. 
 Of the three young dates which 
 begin to develop in a pollinated 
 flower, two usually fall off at an 
 earh" stage, and only the 
 one favoured one conti 
 nues to develop. Thus 
 then arises the per- 
 fect date. 
 
 Ripe dates have 
 been obtained lately, in 
 May, even in Nice: but 
 they are of a particu- 
 lar species. The 
 tree which bears 
 
 ttM 
 
 them grew up in the garden 
 of Henri de Cessoles' villa. It 
 
 Aiitliyllis Barba yovis. 
 
30 PALMS. 
 
 has been taken for a hybrid of Phoenix ca7iarie7isis with 
 Phoenix dactylifera, an unproved hypothesis. The fruits 
 are black, and as Dr. Fritz Mader tells me, taste like 
 plum jam. About 50 kilos of fruit ripen yearly on this 
 one tree, and as these become pure black the name of 
 Phoenix melanocarpa has been proposed for it. 
 
 In the \vinter of 1890 — 1 the cultivated Palms of 
 the Riviera had to stand a severe test as the thermometer 
 sank for several hours to six degrees below zero. Be- 
 sides the common and the Canar\' Palm (Phoenix cana- 
 riensis), the Californian Prilchardia filifcra, the Austra- 
 lian Livistoua ansfralis, and the Chinese Chamaerops ex- 
 celsa showed most resistance to the cold. It is not sur- 
 prising that the Dwarf Palm (Chamaerops hiunilis) should 
 flourish at Bordighera, since it belongs to the Aledite- 
 ranean flora: it is our onh' European Palm, being indige- 
 nous in Sicih- and southern Itah'. Chamaerops used 
 formerly to be found wild in isolated spots between Nice 
 and Mentone, but has now disappeared from them. In 
 Algeria this Palm covers large tracts of land. An attempt 
 was made to eradicate it there so as to cultivate the 
 ground. Now however it is being carefully propagated. 
 From a troublesome weed it has come to be regarded as 
 an important economic plant. For after suitable treat- 
 ment the leaves of the Dwarf Palm yield very elastic 
 fibres which are used, like horse-hair, for upholstering 
 furniture and for mattresses. In point of cheapness they 
 have the advantage over horse-hair, and moreover are 
 not attacked by moths. Whereas Palms of the genus 
 Phoenix have pinnate fronds, those of the Pritchardias, 
 
I'ALMS. 31 
 
 Coriplieae and Cliamaerops are palmate. As their 
 aspect differs niaterialh' from that ot the Date Palm their 
 introduction is a distinct gain to the landscape of the 
 Riviera. ( liaiuarrops exccha has alread\' attained a con- 
 siderable heii»-ht in man\' L^ardens. It is one of the har- 
 diest of the introduced s]")ecies, so much so that it stands 
 the winter in the Isle of Wight without protection. In 
 fact it has ]?roved itself to be hardier than our European 
 Dwarf Palm. Pritchardi'a iilifera is a great favourite 
 in gardens because of the numerous white threads which 
 hang out from the edges of the leaves. One of the com- 
 monest Palms on the Riviera \s. I''/ioeii/'x caiiariciis/'s, which 
 is ver\' like the Date Palm, but differs from it in its 
 sturdier and more luxuriant groMtb. In sheltered places 
 on the Riviera several species of the genus Cocos suc- 
 ceed, for instance C ^exiiosa and Koniauzoffatia, both 
 exceedingly elegant, and also the pretty glaucous Cocos 
 australis whose ^•ellow or red fruits ripen here. These 
 are almost as large as an eg^g and are much esteemed 
 in Nice, Cannes and San Remo because their juicy cov- 
 ering smells of Pine Apple. The true Coconut Palm. 
 Cocos fiucj'fcra, cannot survive either here or on tlie 
 southern shores of the Mediterranean. Its cultivation is 
 confined to the tropics. The leaves of the Coconut Palm 
 resemble those of the Phoenix. Areca Palms also have 
 similar foliage. A. sapida and Baucri thrive on the 
 Riviera: the^• are closeh" related to Arcca Catechu, 
 which produces tlie Betel nut, — those nuts which, sprink- 
 led with powdered lime and wrapped in Betel pepper 
 leaves (Piper Betle), are chewed b^- young and old in 
 
32 PALMS. 
 
 southern Asia. Broad leaved Livistonas are among the fan 
 Pahiis which adorn the gardens of the Riviera. L. chin- 
 eiisis and anstralis are often seen in our hot-houses. 
 Other palmate-leaved Palms grown on the Riviera are, 
 the handsome, glaucous Brahca Roczli: the stateh- Sahals, 
 whose tenaceous fibres are used for making ropes, hats, 
 baskets and sacks ; and the important Carnauba ( Coper- 
 nicia cerifera) of Brazil. In the Brazilian province of 
 Ceara most of the huts are thatched with the leaves of 
 this latter, and its fibres are used as straw. The hard 
 stem of this Palm supplies wood for building and car- 
 pentry, its roots yield a medicine, its bitter fruits a nour- 
 ishing food, and from its sap s^■rup and Arrak are pre- 
 pared. In short this Palm is a good instance of the 
 manifold uses to which a single species of this invaluable 
 family can be put in the tropics. It owes its specific 
 name of "cerifera", as also that of "Wax Palm", to its 
 most important product ^ vegetable wax — which is 
 secreted in the form of scales on its leaves. These scales 
 are beaten off the voung, dried leaves and then boiled 
 in water, when the liquid wax collects on the surface. 
 It is then mixed with tallow and made into candles which 
 burn with a pleasant perfume. 
 
 Bordighera is not satisfied with exporting its Palm- 
 fronds for ceremonial use. An attempt has been made 
 to turn some of the handsome exotics to account in the 
 manufacture of artistic objects. Thus an industr\' has 
 arisen which centres in Herr Winter's nurserv garden. 
 The Date Palm, Chamaerops, Livistona australis. and 
 Pritchardia filifera furnish the materials for this work. 
 
Blade, stalk and sheath 
 of these Palm leaves enter into 
 the designs, and the shell of the 
 pilgrim's gourd serves as a flower vase. 
 Different parts of these same plants also 
 are moulded into certain shapes and ^^^ 
 dried, then litted together to form stands 
 for bowls and various other vessels. ()ther\^ 
 ornaments are also constructed. Even 
 the nightingales of the Riviera have 
 learnt to make use of these newh- intro- 
 duced trees. The^' have discovered that 
 the long fibres on the edges of the leaves 
 of the Pritchardia are admirably adapted for \ 
 nest-building. The^' pick them off to build 
 their temporar\- homes. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Next to Bordighera. Mentone ahva\'S i 
 fascinates me with the magical charm of its 
 valleys. These slope steeply inland from the 
 sea to the high mountains, and offer an almo^'t 
 infinite variety of scenery, and ever changing 
 views of picturesque hamlets perched on pre- 
 cipitous heights. The rugged rocks, towering 
 to the sky, form the background and give a 
 wild, romantic character to the whole scene. 
 Thus one can wander in the valley of Fossan 
 in the east, in the valleys of Carei and Boirigo 
 in the west, and the more distant valley of 
 
 Antirrhiniiin 
 latifolium. 
 
34 G ORBIO . 
 
 Gorbio, and visit all the wild, romantic villages — 
 from Castellar, ^\■hose houses are huddled together at 
 the top of a steep incline, to Roccabruna, which, with 
 its half ruined castle, clings to the dark mountain side. 
 Good carriage roads wind through the valleys, but the 
 walker ^^•ill prefer the paths which lead him to his 
 destination in the shade of the Olives and Pines. A pro- 
 fusion of flowers surrounds him on all sides and though 
 he mav resist the temptation of gathering them into a 
 bouquet, he will pluck some of the innumerable \'iolets 
 from the bank. He who does not shrink from the exer- 
 tion should extend this walk beyond the limits of the 
 usual excursions. Not until ^'ou reach a considerable 
 height does the full splendour of the landscape unfold 
 itself, and the e\e travel unimpeded over land and sea. 
 In the early morning hours of a warm, sunnv, 
 spring da\' we left the road which leads from Mentone 
 to Monaco and turned into the fertile Gorbio valley, 
 through which flows a stream of some volume. At flrst 
 handsome villa- gardens line the slowh' ascending road, 
 then come modest farm holdings. Fragrant flowers trail 
 over the walls: at first the showy flowers of the rich, 
 and then the Wall- flowers, Stocks, Pelargoniums and 
 Anemones which even the poor can afford. C}presses 
 festooned with Roses rise here and there high into the 
 air. Lemon and Orange groves follow upon each other; 
 then Fig trees. Higher up our northern fruit trees, 
 Peach and Plum, occur here and there. They are in full 
 bloom. It is still too warm here for Apples and Pears; 
 the^- do not thrive until we reach St. Agnese, beyond the 
 
maii)i:n hair \'\:\<s. 35 
 
 rocks which close tlie \alle\- to the north. It is worth 
 while to collect the indi<j^enoii.s j?huits in the \'alle\' of 
 Gorbio. Ardoino, author of the "hlore des Alpes ]Mari- 
 times", mentions more than a thousand wild species as 
 occurriuir in the \alle\ s whicli open near Mentone. It 
 would be necessar\' to search the whole of Ireland or 
 Sweden to obtain as man\' plants as are to be found 
 here in an area of 15 s(.[uare miles. The valleys of 
 Mentone are exceptionalh- rich in Orchids, and these 
 nearh' all flower in the spring. Man^- Ferns, rare else- 
 where, are to be found here. Maiden I lair Fern {Adi- 
 anhiiu Capilliis \\')icri$. Fig. p. 13) is alwa^•s a favourite 
 with non-botanical people, adorning as it does with its 
 graceful and delicate fronds the damp recesses of tlie 
 rocks. The wedge-shaped pinnules of this fern seem to 
 be borne on shin^', black wire, and wave and tremble 
 with ever^• breath of air. Xot inappropriateh' did the 
 Romans liken this prett^' plant to the hair of Venus. 
 Formerh- it was used in medicine, and even now an 
 infusion of its bitter-sweet and rather astringent leaves 
 is occasionalh' emplo\ed in chest complaints. Prepared 
 with sugar, the fronds of the Maiden Hair Fern make 
 the "S^■rupus Capillorum Veneris", which is said to be 
 a specific for chest affections. 
 
 An old paved road through the Olive trees forms a 
 short cut up the vallew At one of its bends Gorbio 
 suddenh' bursts upon the view close at hand. It crowns 
 a steep hill completeh' clothed in Olive trees. An 
 amphitheatre ot" might\' rocks encloses the view, giving 
 it an exceptionalh picturescjue appearance. We soon 
 
 2 
 
36 VIEW ABOVE GORBIO. 
 
 reach the spot, cross the Place, which is shaded by an 
 old Elm, and turning to the left, strike into the path 
 which passes hv a spring and follows the slope of the 
 hill. After half an hour's climb we reach the conspicu- 
 ous cross which braves the weather high up on the 
 projecting shoulder of the mountain. When the Mistral 
 blows strongh' it is bardK- possible to linger in this spot. 
 The shattered cross, which now stretches only one arm 
 heavenwards, bears witness to the violence of the storms 
 that rage up there. The view from the cross is over- 
 whelmingh- grand. It embraces all the valle^'S which 
 converge near Mentone. On the heights we still see 
 those wild villages, the strongholds of the Grimaldis and 
 the Lascaris who once ruled over the valle\'s. .\ semi- 
 circle of mountains rises forbiddingh- in the background 
 and forms an impenetrable barrier to the e\e, while to 
 the south the blue sea stretches awa^- into the distance. 
 To enhance this impression might seem impossible; and 
 ^'et, when we have reluctanth' quitted this scene, the 
 panorama increases in sublime grandeur as soon as we 
 reach the ridge which runs southward towards Rocca- 
 bruna. The walls of rock which close the valleys are 
 seen in perspective like vast decorations, and the outlines 
 of the picture become ever richer and more varied. In 
 the middle of the landscape, on the northern slope of 
 one of the mightiest of these giants, vSt. Agnese stands 
 out, a village of some importance, hanging like a swal- 
 low's nest over the giddy precipice. Who could suspect 
 the existence of this village? It is completely concealed 
 from the sea by the rocks to which it clings. The high 
 
ST. AGNES I :. 
 
 37 
 
 clilf must have hidden it Iroin the searching gaze of the 
 Saracens who once sailed the T^Trhenian Sea. And yet 
 legend tells us that in the tenth century Ilarun, a Sara- 
 cen chief, built the castle whose ruins toda}' crown the 
 summit of the mountain. I le came here, however, not as an 
 enemy, but vantjuished by the love of a Christian woman 
 whom he made his bride after his own conversion. 
 
 Even those who are familiar with the loveliest parts 
 of southern Italy will appreciate to the full extent this 
 noble and typically Italian landscape. And how much 
 more beautiful does it become when at sunset the tops 
 of the mountains are tinged with red, casting long, dark 
 shadows in the valleys, and touching St. Agnese on her 
 grey rocks with its tier}- glow. Hut now the sun has 
 vanished behind the Tete de Chien: the shades of niLdit 
 
38 MENTONE. 
 
 are falling in the vallevs, time is short and a long 
 stretch of stony path lies between us and the railwa}" 
 station of Cabbe-Roejuebrune. Here an unexpected 
 pleasure awaits us as a suitable ending to a day which 
 has been such a feast of colour. The huge Judas trees 
 ( Cercis Stliquastruni) on the bank are in full blossom, 
 and droop their leafless but flower-laden branches down 
 over the brown wall. The prettv, crowded flowers grow 
 out even from the old wood, so that the whole tree 
 looks like a pink garland. This tree was in ancient times 
 a favourite in the gardens of Jerusalem, and this may 
 well have given rise to the saA'ing that Judas had hanged 
 himself on one of them. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 The view of Mentone from Pont St. Louis is enchant- 
 ingly beautiful (Fig. p. 265). It is one of the most impressive 
 on the whole Riviera and should be seen when Old Mentone 
 is lighted from the east by the morning sun. The main 
 road which crosses the bridge of St. Louis, and connects 
 Mentone with Ventimiglia, begins to rise gradualh' just 
 after Garavan, between villas and garden walls. When 
 there is not too much dust the walk along this road is 
 very enjoyable ; for the gardens which border on it abound 
 in luxuriant vegetation. With a profusion which defies 
 restraint, foliage and flowers break free and overhang 
 the walls. Bright red and flaming Pelargoniums, and 
 a Rose bush studded with innumerable blossoms, trail 
 over the stone work. Further on a wall is clothed from 
 top to bottom with an Ivy- leaved cranesbill — the Pelar- 
 
KUAD TO THE PONT ST. LOUIS. 39 
 
 ^■oni'/i!)! pcliaiiDu — whose leaves are almost hidden 
 beneath the pink llowers. Yonder bush, bending in a 
 graceful arch over another wall, with its spikes of ^•cllow 
 llowers, is the Chinese Huddleia f7>. I^iiidlcxana). For 
 some distance tlie road is jierfumed with Heliotrope, 
 growing over a railing close at hand: still further, bordering 
 the road, is a Pergola covered \\ith saffron-\ellow Roses. 
 Two huge \Mgandias, with large leaves, grow out from 
 a cleft in the wall at \\\\^^i Cople\', and almost bar the 
 wa\'. Below them the ground is strewn with deep violet 
 corollas, as though a shower of llowers had fallen there. 
 Above the dark foliage of the Wigandias gleams that 
 of a silver-gre\' bush, now just unfolding its bright 
 yellow Hower- heads. This plant belongs to the Pea- 
 flower tribe, is indigenous here and loves the rockv sea 
 shore ; it must feel strangeh' out of place among these 
 ga\' surroundings. The soft, liowing appearance of its 
 silverv foliage has won for it the name of Jove's beard 
 {Ant/iylh's Barha 'joz'is Fig. p. 29). Pressing close 
 upon this is a plant from Equador, with panicles of 
 large, orange-coloured flowers — the Streptosoleii yamcsoui 
 of the Solaneae — which, on account of the profusion 
 of its blossoms and striking hue, finds increasing favour 
 on the Riviera. The tubular corolla has a curious spiral 
 twist at its base, hence the whole famih' has obtained 
 the name of "Drehrohre" in German\'. Teucriiaii fruticaiis 
 has long been grown here, often as a hedge. V>\ the 
 shape of its bright blue flowers it is easilv known as a 
 Labiate of the Germander tribe, although unlike our 
 northern species of Teucrium it can attain a height of 
 
 2* 
 
40 GARDEN PLANTS. 
 
 two yards. The leaves of this North African shrub 
 are almost snow-white beneath, contrasting with the vege- 
 tation and enhancing the colour effects along this rich- 
 hued road. The ""Fig Marigold" (Meserubryaidheiiniin 
 acinaciforme) adorns numerous walls with its heavA' 
 festoons of thick, fleshy leaves and purple flowers. The 
 South African Composite, Arctotis aspera, a rough, hair\- 
 undershrub, bends over from man^' a garden. It is an 
 unassuming plant and a great favourite here now : it 
 bears dull-gre\' leaves, pinnatitid and crimped, and bright 
 brownish-yellow flower-heads which in their dull sheen 
 remind one of some of the Everlastings. The road takes 
 a sudden turning and we pass a steep place completeh' 
 overgrown with Bougainvillea, whose mauve flower bracts 
 are so brighth' coloured that in the sunshine the eye is 
 almost dazzled bA' them. In delicate contrast with this 
 is the beautiful white I^osa Siiiica. Its blossoms are 
 single with tufts of golden stamens. The splendid Big- 
 nonia, Tccoiua capcnsis, whose large, carmine flowers 
 show to such good effect in spite of the prolusion of 
 colours around, may rival the Bougainvilleas in brilliance. 
 The name of "Trumpet flower" has been given to this 
 genus on account of the slighth' curved, tubular corolla 
 widening at the mouth. Then we pass Orange and 
 Lemon trees, still laden with fruit and alread^' opening 
 their fragrant blossoms. Amid this profusion of flowers 
 we reach the little French Douane hut, and a few steps 
 further bring us to our destination. The Pont St. Louis 
 bridges with its bold arch the Ravine which divides 
 Italy from France. The view over Mentone from here 
 
\'IEW FROM nib: PONT ST. LOUIS. 
 
 41 
 
 is indeed of unsurpiissed beaiit\' (Fig-, p. 2()5). The old town 
 rests upon a small projection of land between two deep 
 blue ba^•s. The closeh' packed houses rise on it one 
 above another. All are built in the Italian st\le, with 
 I^oggias, balconies and terraces, but varying in size and 
 colour, and united without apparent s\stem into a single 
 confused mass. Hut all details are lost in the bright 
 sunshine, wlien the whole town stands out almost white 
 in the distance. The church, with its slender belfry, rises 
 from the mass of houses. And in what grand surroundings is 
 this picture set ! On the western horizon the rugged 
 ciiain of the Esterel is fainth' outlined. On this side of 
 them the coast falls back and the bold Tete de Chien 
 above Monaco forms the next headland. This might\' 
 
 seems to mount guard over 
 the long stretch of coast. 
 Cap Martin lies like a 
 ^reen velvet ribbon upon the 
 blue sea, and behind Mentone 
 ise jagged giants, blue-gre\' 
 in the brilliant sunlight. 
 White villages gleam among 
 the foliage on the slopes, 
 uid in the valle^■s below the 
 ,er-gre\' of the Olives har- 
 monises with the dark shades of 
 the Lemons. Rich as the colour- 
 ing of a kaleidoscope are the 
 sides of the ravine at our teet. We 
 )ok down uj^on a garden which 
 
42 VIEW FROM THE PONT ST . LOUIS. 
 
 rises in terraces smothered with tiowers. Pink and red 
 Pelargoniums crowded together: rounded bushes of 
 "Marguerites" (Chrysanthemum frutescens) studded with 
 thousands of white starhke flowers: fiery Streptosolen : a 
 Judas tree in blossom bending its pink branches over the 
 white "Marguerites'' : a bright yellow rose entwined about 
 the Judas tree : feather^' tufts of slender Bamboo : Fan 
 Palms: dark Cypress spires: succulent Agaves: a "Pepper 
 tree" with light-green, finely pinnate leaves and "weeping" 
 branches : dazzling red Bougainvilleas on the terrace 
 walls — truly a party-coloured mosaic ! Tall Date-palms 
 rise from the ravine, framing the view of Mentone, while 
 fantastic Opuntias near the bridge form the foreground: 
 and this whole richly coloured picture is girt by the 
 deep blue waters of the sea. A fresh breeze blows from 
 the sea, and flower^• Spring smiles on us from the gorge 
 below. This sublime scene inspires us with feelings of 
 harmon^' and joy, and we would willingly forget that yonder, 
 above Mentone, where white stones and dark C^'presses 
 rise within gre\ walls, is a place of mourning. Formerh- 
 a castle of the Grimaldis stood on this hill, then, be- 
 tween the ruins and the encircling wall, a cemetery was 
 formed. This now overlooks the sunn^' coast as once 
 the might\' stronghold dominated it, and is a landmark 
 to the Mentone of toda\-. In vain I seek to withdraw 
 my thoughts from this place, but incessantly Xh.Q\ return 
 to it. Never before has a cemetery seemed sadder to 
 me than yonder one with its graves covered with flowers, 
 nor has the deep contradiction between the sunny 
 joyousness of Nature and the suddenness of death ever 
 
riiic k.wim:. 43 
 
 struck me so forcibh'. Tlie lieart ot ever^• one wlio 
 tarries there is oppressed hv this contrast. From all 
 <.|uarters of the earth were gathered toj^ether those who 
 now rep(xse in this "(iod's acre". In the tlower of their 
 ^ outh, far from their home, the\- were laid to rest under 
 Jasmine and Rose. Does the soil lie lighter on them 
 because llowers never fade upon their graves ? Roses, 
 white, \ellow and red, grow there in special profusion, 
 and spread an intoxicating perfume around. When I 
 visited this cemeter^' on a former occasion the world 
 was radiant with the glorA' of spring and the air teemed 
 \\"ith io\ous life. Vet it was sad among these tiower- 
 decked graves. B\- a newh' erected monument sat a 
 \'0ung sculptor carving the face of a tender maid on the 
 stone: he was singing a merr\- song. I remained long 
 standing before that grave : it was like a Shakespearean 
 tragedy I 
 
 High above the Pont St. Louis jagged mountains, 
 wild and romantic, rise abrupth'. In the middle of the 
 ravine a solitar^• pinnacle stands forth, and there are 
 numerous caves in the wall of rock. Rosemar\' in 
 full tlower. the shrubb^' '"Busli Spurge" (Euphorbia 
 dcudroidcs), Juniper, and large-llowered, silver^■-gre^' 
 Mallows (Lavalrra nnin'/ima ), cling to each projection 
 of the rock and relieve the monotony- of its surface. Below 
 all is green with luxuriant vegetation. .\ clear stream 
 gushes through the rock\' cleft, forming prett^' waterfalls. 
 Part ot the water is drawn off into a small aqueduct 
 which winds about picturescjueh' and linalh- crosses the 
 stream on an arched bridije. Ever\'thin<»' is as effect- 
 
44 LA MORTOLA. 
 
 ively united in this narrow space as in the scene of a 
 theatre ! 
 
 This ravine is one of the warmest spots on this 
 particularly sheltered part of the Riviera. Surrounded 
 and protected b^' high mountains, it lies open to none 
 but the south wind. Violets bloom as early as December 
 in the gull}', and swallows never leave it. Lizards delay 
 their winter sleep, and food is always plentiful, for 
 insects buzz through the air, and the spider spreads her 
 web to catch these even in winter. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 No visitor to Bordighera or Mentone should omit 
 to make an excursion to La Mortola, the garden of Sir 
 Thomas Hanbur}-, The public are admitted on Mondays 
 and Fridays on payment of one franc. This money 
 helps to support the Hospital of V^entimiglia. Those 
 wishing to study in the garden will receive permission 
 from the owner to visit it at any time. The beautiful 
 Palazzo still standing in the grounds takes its name from 
 the former owners, the Orengo family of Ventimiglia. 
 When Sir Thomas Hanbury acquired this estate in 1866 
 there was a scanty Olive grove on it. With the aid of 
 experienced and skilful gardeners he has converted it 
 into the fairy- like spot which now charms the visitor. 
 The late Mr. Daniel Hanbury, F. R. S., F. L. S., etc., 
 brother of the owner, assisted with his scientific 
 knowledge in laying the foundation of this vast collection 
 of plants. The garden covers an area of about 40 hectares. 
 It slopes up steeply from the sea to a height of 300 feet. 
 
LA MORTOLA. 
 
 45 
 
 AsJiarag'HS 
 ncutifoliiis. 
 
 bears a label on 
 
 country and Natural 
 
 where the road passes 
 '-, . through the village of 
 . T^^;?^'^)^^; La Mortola. The 
 ■ deep hollow in the 
 
 Xuninuilitic lime-stone in which 
 part of the garden is situated, 
 '^. affords protection against winds and 
 .,i^ permits of the development of 
 such luxuriant vegetation as can 
 ' scarcely be equalled on the 
 Riviera. It is indeed only b\' irri- 
 gating the whole estate that the sum- 
 jij^yj^ ''"^ mer drought is prevented from being 
 fatal to the plants. For at Mortola 
 they reckon on over 200 cloudless days 
 in the year; and even during the six 
 i^ winter months there are only about 
 40 rain\' •.. da^-s. 
 
 • '^' It would be a rash endeav- 
 our to attempt to describe 
 the innumerable plants which 
 nave been brought together 
 in the gardens of La Mortola, 
 I can do no more than mention 
 its rich profusion and splendour, and 
 draw attention to the valuable infor- 
 mation which ever^' visitor can there 
 glean for himself. For each plant 
 which is inscribed its name, native 
 
 Order. 
 
 A catalogue of the 
 
46 LA MORTOLA. 
 
 garden, published in 1889, enumerated about 3600 different 
 plants. Since then their number has been much augmented 
 by the addition of new species of scientific interest or 
 technical importance. All Botanical Institutions duly receive 
 the catalogue with permission to draw upon the treasures 
 of the garden for scientific purposes. Sir Thomas Hanbury 
 is careful to entrust the manag"ement of his o-arden to 
 competent hands. Hitherto this duty has fallen to the 
 lot of -industrious and scientifically trained gardeners. 
 Mortola is almost unique among private gardens and 
 should arouse the emulation of other wealthy landowners. 
 The garden of La Mortola is at its best in spring. 
 The Acacias particularly contribute to its splendour at 
 that season. More than sixty species of them are 
 grown there, including the Mimosa-like kinds whose 
 iineh' pinnate leaflets are set in motion by every breath 
 of wind, and those stiff, thorny species which fully 
 justif\' their botanical names of "armed" (armata), "bristly" 
 and "terrible" (horrida). Many of the Acacias are so 
 smothered in yellow flowers that their green foliage is 
 hardly visible, and most of them emit a pleasant aroma 
 when in bloom. Names like '"pleasant", "agreeable" 
 (suaveolens) indicate certain species which are more 
 perfumed than the rest. But the most fragrant of all 
 these is undoubtedly the tropical American Acacia 
 Farncsiaua (Fig. p. 5), which bears its violet-scented 
 flower-heads in winter. These little flower-heads, under 
 the name of "Fleurs de Cassie", are largeh' used in 
 Grasse and Cannes in the manufacture of scent. This 
 plant, which has long been known in the south of Europe, 
 
ACACIAS 47 
 
 received the name "Farnesiana" because it was first 
 cultivated in the Farnese gardens at Rome. Acacia, or 
 Albizzia 'yulihrissiii. is a stateh' Mimosa-like tree with 
 twice pinnate leaves, but its briglit violet llower-heads 
 do not open till ]u\\. Its delicate, gracetul, glaucous 
 foliage renders it conspicuous at La Mortola as elsewhere 
 on the Riviera. This tree is a native of the southern 
 shore of tlie Caspian Sea. Its specific name is Persian 
 and means *'silk. llower". The stitV, South African 
 Acac/d Jiorrida \ields an inferior gum knou'n as "Cape 
 gum". The finest (nim Arabic exudes, like the gum 
 from our CherrA' trees, from the bark of Acacia Sciico-al, 
 a native of Senegambia and Kordofan. 
 
 A A'ellow flowered bush, Ptcronia incana, from the 
 Cape, is remarkable at La Mortola for its exceptionally 
 agreeable perfume. It belongs to tlie same division of 
 the Composites as do our Asters, and its flowers emit 
 what I feel tempted to call etherialised odour of Apricots I 
 Another bush from the Cape is JJiosma fragrans, of the 
 Rutaceae : the whole plant is sweetlv scented. Xot 
 inappropriateh' has this genus been called Diosma, 
 "Perfume of the Gods''. Several species are much 
 grown in greenhouses at home, and their foliage used 
 for making up boue{uets. A Chilian shrub of the 
 Fiacourtiaceae, Azara micropJixUa . with small yellow 
 flowers is called "Aromo" in its native country on 
 account of its \'anilla-like fragrance. A herbaceous 
 Salvia (S. alhocoerulca) has a faint, fruit\' odour. \'arious 
 Pelargoniums, for instance P. roscuin. and odoraiissiniiiDi, 
 diffuse a strong rose-like perfume when their leaves are 
 
48 GENISTA. — CASUARIXA. 
 
 bruised. In man^' places in the garden the scent of the 
 small, white blossoms of Pitiosporwn Tohira is almost 
 overpowering. These flowers are borne in large numbers 
 on an evergreen tree-like shrub which is not unlike the 
 Laurustinus ( J ihnniiiin Timis). There is also a species 
 with almost black flowers, which have a ver\' curious 
 effect. Sweeth' scented like our Chickling \^etch (Lath- 
 yriis sativa) is a dainty tree with '"weeping" boughs, 
 which owing to the profusion of its tlowers looks quite 
 white at a little distance. It is a west Mediterranean 
 species of Broom, Genista moiiospcnua, one of the most 
 graceful plants of the Riviera, and ought to be called 
 a "shower of blossoms". Passino- suddenh' from this 
 plant it seems difficult to believe that Genista Acantho- 
 clada, a bush from the Grecian hills, can belong to the 
 same genus. This plant is so thorn \- that it was trans- 
 ferred to Tartarus as an emblem of terror. Aspalathus, 
 called after the island of Aspalathe on the coast of 
 L}xia, is said by legend to have furnished the rods with 
 which the ungodh' were chastised in Hades. 
 
 Visitors to the gardens cannot fail to notice the large 
 Casuarina trees which shade the entrance steps. The 
 name of this famih^ was suggested hy the thread-like, 
 gre}-green, pendant twigs which hang down like the 
 feathers of a cassowar\'s tail. As the tw^igs are leafless 
 the work of feeding the tree devolves upon them: this is 
 why they are green, that is to say contain the green 
 colouring matter — chloroph^'ll — whose presence is 
 essential for the elaboration of the sap throughout the tree. 
 In Australia Casuarinas form vast, characteristic forests. 
 
EUCALYPTI. 
 
 49 
 
 foliage is 
 sunlisfht. 
 breeze, a 
 the Euca- 
 to effect in 
 are among 
 .Vustralia 
 
 fflV'" L,iK.e so man\- otlier Australian 
 
 [f trees thev cast but little shadow 
 
 y^^" on the ground. The llowers 
 
 (y/|g^^^^ are so small and inconspicu- 
 
 "" " " , ous that onh' the expert eye 
 
 * could lind them. The 
 
 wood of the Casuarina is 
 
 remarkable for its great hardness and 
 
 weight, and was for this reason used 
 
 by the aborigines for making their 
 
 war-clubs. — Another Australian 
 
 2 genus which has been 
 
 spread with great rapi- 
 
 dit^' all over the Riviera 
 
 in the last decades, is that 
 
 of the Eucalyptus. The Mortola 
 
 garden has man\' different 
 
 species. The most commonly 
 
 met with on the ^Mediterranean is 
 
 ^. glohidus. Eucah'pti also afford 
 
 little shade : their leaves are indeed 
 
 fairly large, but thev hang perpendicularly 
 
 on long stalks so that even when the 
 
 dense it cannot completeh' shut out the 
 
 And as the trees are stirred by the lightest 
 
 peculiar, tremulous twilight reigns under 
 
 hptus : this however can onh' be seen 
 
 forests of these trees. The Eucahpti 
 
 the giants of the Vegetable \\'orld. In 
 
 trees of E. amigdalina have been found 
 
' 5'd ■ EUCALYPTI. 
 
 measuring 514 feet in height. This corresponds to 
 that of the towers of Cologne Cathedral; the Pyramid 
 of Cheops, however, and the dome of St. Peters in 
 Rome fall short of it bv five, and twenty vards 
 respectivel}'. Eucah'ptus trees grow exceedingly fast 
 even on the Riviera, and soon tower above their sur- 
 roundings although they were introduced not more than 
 forty years ago. At La Mortola a Ezicalyptus globulus 
 attained a height of 60 feet and nearly five feet girth 
 in seven years. No other trees in Europe have been 
 known to grow so'rapidh'. In spite of this rapid growth 
 the wood is very hard. Eucahpti have been planted in 
 many places because wholesome effects have been attributed 
 to their exhalations. But in reality the infinitely small 
 quantity of volatile oil which the tree emits could scarcely 
 have any appreciable effect. On the other hand as they 
 grow so rapidl}', and, being evergreen, continue to eva- 
 porate water from their leaves summer and winter, they 
 may contribute tow^ards the draining of swamp^• ground. 
 The hope that an essence extracted from the leaves and 
 bark of the Eucalyptus would take the place of Quinine 
 was never realised. But this extract does really possess 
 certain febrifuge properties, and justifies its use from time 
 immemorial by the Australian aborigines. In April the 
 older trees on the Riviera are decked with large, white 
 flowers, which are remarkable for their numerous, long, 
 thread-like stamens. The Botanist will know at once that 
 he is dealing with a plant belonging to the Myrtle family. 
 A peculiarity of the Eucalyptus is that their flower-buds 
 open by a round lid, w^hich falls off like a white frosted 
 
 
ACiRUMI. 
 
 ^tatc ^ibraru 
 
 cap. Tliese lids ma\' be seen in spring hing in great 
 quantities under the Eucahptus trees : wlien trodden upon 
 the\" emit a \ er\ penetrating odour. Latterh these tlower- 
 buds liave been turned to account in the making of 
 crosses and rosaries. \'oung Eucahptus trees, such as 
 Ave see in our nortliern greenhouses, jiresent at first 
 ijuite a different appearance to that of older trees. They 
 scarceh' seem like the same plant. The leaves are short 
 and broad, encircling the stem with their base, and are 
 attached horizontalh': onh' on tlie older branches are 
 these replaced b\ the narrow, pointed, long-stalked leaves 
 Avhicli hang down. 
 
 -Eiicalxptiis globulus, which is such a favourite on 
 the Riviera, is not the hardiest representative of the 
 genus, for even here it suffers in exposed situations in a 
 severe winter. MauA' species stand the cold better, and 
 Ii. Gtiinii thrives even as far north as Whittingham 
 near Edinburgh. 
 
 To the high chain of the Maritime Alps, which ward 
 off the cold north wind, the Riviera di Ponente owes 
 its mild climate. Without this protecting barrier the culti- 
 vation of the Agrumi in this latitude would be impos- 
 sible. In man\- places on the coast between Xice and 
 Savona the Agrumi thrive (.[uite as well as the\ do at 
 Naples: wliereas one might traverse the inland districts 
 of Northern and Middle Itah' without seeing anA' of them. 
 Under the name of '"Agrumi"' are included the represen- 
 tatives of the genus Citrus. The Catalogue of La Mortola 
 Gardens contains the names of more than twent\' species 
 and varieties of this genus. Almost all the kinds of 
 
52 AGRUMI. 
 
 Agrumi cultivated in Italv maA' be seen in this garden 
 brought together within a small compass. These trees 
 are so inseparably connected in our minds with southern 
 skies that the land of Itah' is ever pictured in our dreams 
 as permeated with the fragrance of orange blossom and 
 gleaming with their golden fruit. Goethe's beautiful 
 "Mignonlied", lines which have expressed for all time 
 the yearning of the northerner for sunnier climes, has no 
 doubt contributed much to this idea. But though the 
 Agrumi maA' appear to form part of the Italian landscape 
 they nevertheless were not introduced there till compara- 
 tiveh' late and have remained conhned to certain districts. 
 Their home is in distant Asia, in India and Southern 
 China, and they made their way to Europe through the 
 Levant. The name "Citrum" was first applied by the 
 ancients to the wood of Callitris qziadrivalvis as may be 
 seen in the "Traite du Citrus" b\' Gallesio (1811), the 
 "Histoire naturelle des oranges" \>\ Risso (1801), \^ictor 
 Hehn's "Kulturpflanzen und Haustiere", the "Origin of 
 Cultivated Plants" \i\ Alphonse de Candolle. and lasth^ 
 Fliickiger's "Pharmakognosie", not to mention older sour- 
 ces of information. A well grown specimen of this north 
 African conifer ma\' also be seen lin Sir Thomas Han- 
 bury's gardens. It fields "Gum Sandarac", a resin which 
 exudes from the bark in hard, white drops and trickles 
 from the trunk when injured. Grained slabs of this per- 
 fumed wood and transverse sections of the trunk were 
 highly prized by the Romans. They were coveted ob- 
 jects among the splendour-loving Roman nobles, and rea- 
 lized high prices. Some of these slabs measured more 
 
MEDIAN APPLE. 
 
 53 
 
 than ii \iird in diameter; tliev were supported on ivory 
 pillars and called "monopodia". This wood was also 
 used for making costh' chests in which woollen garments 
 were preserved from moth. When later the "Median 
 Apple" became known to the Romans and acquired the 
 same reputation as the "L'itrum" wood for keeping off 
 moth, the name of •"Citrum" was applied to it also. The 
 first accounts of the trees which bore these " Mala citria" 
 reached Greece at the time of Alexander the Great. His 
 conquests opened up the East and the tropics to Greek 
 culture and introduced to the classical lands a wider range 
 of new natural objects than was brought in at anv time 
 until the discover\' of Tropical America. In Media the 
 Greeks first saw the evergreen tree with dark foliage 
 that bore the golden apples. The scholars who accom- 
 panied Alexander the Great gave an accurate description 
 of the tree — a description which Theophrastus has 
 handed down to us in his "IIistor^' of Plants". This 
 however did not prevent legends from soon springing up 
 
 around this wonderful fruit; 
 
 and Pliny, with his 
 
 zeal for collecting such 
 
 information, has preserved 
 
 many of these. The leaves 
 
 and fruit of the Citron were 
 
 very powerful antidote 
 learned Athenaeos, of 
 
 said not only to keep off 
 
 moth, but also to be a 
 
 to poison. Indeed the 
 
 Naucratis in Egypt, 
 
 who died 228 A. D., tells us that 
 
 It was a common 
 
54 CITRONS. 
 
 superstition that those who had partaken of the fruits 
 of the Citron tree became proof against the bite of 
 poisonous snakes. So at least we are given to under- 
 stand in that curious work of Athenaeos", so rich in 
 quotations, which he has called "Deipnosophists" or 
 "Banquet of the learned". Here, under the guise of an 
 imaginary feast, he gives us a vast amount of information 
 respecting old manners and customs and the art and 
 science of his time. A rich and gluttonous Roman "bel 
 esprit" has invited to his banquet manv artists, poets 
 and learned men. The delicacies which are provided 
 stimulate the company to conversation on manv topics. 
 Apropos of the Citrons a certain Democritus relates the 
 following, told by his friend the governor of Egypt. 
 Two criminals had been condemned to death by poisonous 
 snake bites, but did not succumb because they had pre- 
 vioush' eaten Citrons, The experiment was repeated with 
 the same men when one had been provided with the 
 antidote and the other not. The former recovered from 
 the bites of the venomous reptiles, while the other died 
 at once. This same Democritus recommends a Citron 
 cooked with honey as the best antidote to poison. If 
 vou take this antidote in the morning \ou will be proof 
 against poisoning for the whole daA'. There is always 
 a spark of truth underlving the superstitions which give 
 rise to such fables. As a matter of fact the Citron pos- 
 sesses strong antiseptic properties, for which it is even 
 now valued. The ancients had already found out that 
 the juice of the Citron purified the breath. This was 
 not our Lemon but the true thick-skinned Citrus medica 
 
Tin-: LEMON. 55 
 
 which is characterised bv its wart\' surface, and which 
 is onl\ sli^'lith' acid. There is a hirge- fruited variet\' of 
 tliis Citron, the L'edrat, familiar to us in confectionarw 
 The rind is exceedini2;l\- thick and when preserved in sui»-ar 
 is known as ''candied peel". A spherical Lemon, remark- 
 able for its roui^h and aromatic rind, is distinguished 
 as "Adam's'' or "Paradise Apple". This was supposed to 
 be the fruit of the Tree of Knoweledge and is still used 
 to represent it b\- the Jews in tlieir Feast of Tabernacles. 
 The fruits most in request for this feast are grown in 
 Corsica, Corfu, ]\h)rocco and Palestine, and fetcli ver\' 
 high prices when the^' are of the prescribed form. 
 
 At the beginning of our era the Citron tree was 
 broupfht to Rome from the far East in earthenware vessels. 
 Thus grown it became \evv fasliionable and was used 
 to adorn the gardens and colonnades of the villas. Being 
 ver\' sensitive to cold it is planted out onh- in the most 
 sheltered spots. It differs from all other Agrumi in that 
 it bears flowers and fruit all the ^ear round. 
 
 The Lemon was brought to south Europe in the 
 tenth centur\- hv the Arabs, reaching first Spain and 
 then Sicih'. At this time it was still unknown on the 
 Coast of Liguria where it \\'as introduced towards the 
 end of the eleventh centur\- hv the Crusaders, who 
 brought it from S\ria and Palestine. The "Pamplemousse'' 
 and the bitter-fruited Orange were introduced on the 
 Riviera with the Lemon tree. Liguria was for a long 
 time the onh- land in which the Agrumi were specialh' 
 cultivated, and this industr\-, no doubt, received a con- 
 siderable imi-)ulse in tlie fourteenth centur\- when the 
 
56 LIME J UICE. 
 
 demand for luxuries began to increase. It spread in 
 Italy simultaneously with the use of lemonade, the pre- 
 paration of which had been learnt from the Orientals. 
 The lirst "Limandiers", which were soon to plav a sim- 
 ilar part to the "Cafetiers" of toda\', appeared in 
 Paris at the time of Cardinal Mazarin. The Lemon, 
 which possesses the same purit\-ing properties as the 
 Citron, makes a drink which is not onh' refreshing but 
 also antiseptic. In the herbals of Tabernaemontanus, 
 "Der Arzney Doctoris und Chur-Fiirstlicher Pfaltz Me- 
 dici", which dates from the latter half of the sixteenth 
 centur\', we are told that Lime-juice "is not onh* a spe- 
 cific for internal complaints and poison", but also "for 
 all sadness, heavy-heartedness and melancholy". The 
 peel is said to counteract poison, "for in times of plague 
 it should be kept in the mouth, and also be used for 
 fumigating". Lime-juice is toda^' the most efficacious 
 anti-scorbutic, counteracting that disease of the mouth 
 and gums to which sailors are especialh' subject. For 
 this reason Lime-juice is carried in sealed bottles on 
 the war ships of the English nav\-, and other countries 
 have followed their example. 
 
 I have endeavoured to ascertain the origin of the 
 custom, \vhich is still so widely spread, among bearers, 
 of carrying a Lemon in their hand at funerals. This 
 was at one time an almost universal practice. I have 
 come to the conclusion that it was originally on account 
 of the purifying properties and strong scent of the Le- 
 mon, and that later a symbolic meaning has come to be 
 attached to it. The Lemon has subserved many sym- 
 
LEMONS IN SVAIBOLISAI. 57 
 
 bolic uses. J. B. Friedrichs in his "Die Symbolik der 
 MA'thologie der Natur" says: — "The aromatic, refre- 
 shing and reviving properties of the Lemon led to its 
 adoption as the symbol of Life and as an emblem ot 
 protection against the agencies destructive of it. Hence, 
 according to ancient belief, the Lemon guarded against 
 sorcery. The Indian widow, who is about to be burned 
 after the death of her husband, carries a Lemon in her 
 hand on her wa}' to the funeral-pyre, as an emblem of 
 future reunion with her husband; and the mourners at a 
 luneral carr\- in their hand a Lemon s^'mbolising the 
 new life of the departed. Children going to their first 
 Communion also carry this fruit as a sign that they are 
 entering upon a new life through their renewed bond 
 with God". 
 
 Citrus dccHiuajia, the "Pamplemousse", will at once 
 attract attention in the gardens of La Mortola by the 
 size of its fruits. They hang from the tree like great, 
 bright }ellow balls and sometimes attain -:^^. 
 
 six kilos in weig-ht. The tiavour is , - » . ^^^ 
 
 ... ^: ;3!v- _ K'^' « 
 
 msipid, but IS improved by the ' '^ - ' '• ■ 
 
 addition of sugar and wine. 
 
 The bitter-fruited Orange '>/ 
 
 has particularh' aromatic le- .^^ -, 
 
 aves and flowers. Its deep 
 
 golden fruits are not eaten 
 
 fresh, but the rind when 
 
 preserved in sugfar is very \ 
 
 tasty. A volatile oil is ex- ^' •. '->^^ ' ^ ' >' 
 
 pressed Irom the loaves, flowers Caiiuhamuion roseum. 
 
58 THE ORANGE. 
 
 and unripe fruits, and these latter are much used in the 
 making of Liqueur. As the bitter -fruited Orange is 
 particularl)' hardA' it is commonh' used as a stock on 
 which to graft other species of Citrus. 
 
 The sweet-fruited Orange reached Europe consider- 
 ably later than its relations. It is commonh" supposed 
 that the Portugese brought it with them from vSouth 
 China towards the middle of the sixteenth century, and 
 the ^xar 1548 is even mentioned as the date. Indeed 
 a tree said to be the first ever planted in Europe was 
 shown in the garden of Count St. Lorenzo at Lisbon. 
 It is however certain that the sweet Orange adorned the 
 gardens of Spain and Itah* long before this; it must 
 have reached Europe as earh' as the fourteenth century. 
 Galesio attempts to prove in his "Traite du Citrus", 
 published in 1811, that the cultivation of the sweet 
 Oranpfe dates back to the fifteenth centur^' even on the 
 Riviera; but his argument is not conclusive. He adduces 
 as a proof the fact that, according to the archives of 
 Savona of the year 1471, a present of preserved Citrons 
 and Lemons, as well as fresh "Citruli", was sent to 
 their envoy at Milan. And because the fruits called 
 "Citruli" were sent fresh Galesio infers that they were 
 sweet Oranges, since the envo\' would not have been 
 able to eat bitter ones. Moreover in the records of a 
 Notarv in Savona mention has been found of a trans- 
 action, in 1472, in connection with the lading of a ship 
 with fifteen thousand "Citranguli" or "Cetroni", and 
 Galesio asks what the\' could be doing with fifteen 
 thousand bitter Oranges. We ma\'. however, leave his 
 
Tin-: oKANci:. 59 
 
 question unanswered without conceding that thcv were 
 roalh sweet Oranges, (jalesio's assumption seems all 
 the more unwarranted since Matthaeus Sihaticus of Sa- 
 lerno, in his "Ojius pandectarum medicinae" completed 
 in 1317, calls the bitter (Grange ''Citranguluni'". "Fhis 
 same name was also used before his time b\' the trans- 
 lators of Arabic works to render tlie word ••Xarindj". 
 Acrain, tlie name ''Portogallo"". hv \\hich the Orange is 
 still commonh' known in Itah', points to the important 
 part phned hv the Portugese in the distribution of the 
 better kinds of sweet Orano-e. The Chinese orip-in of 
 the sweet Orange is shown b\' the (jerman name "Apfel- 
 sine", originallv "Sinaapfel" or Chinese Apple. This 
 German name was adopted b\' the Russians, although 
 immediate neighbours of the Chinese — a proof, as Victor 
 Ilehn sa^■s. of tlie comjilete revolution in the world's 
 traftic, whicli since the time of \"asco de Gama no 
 longer passed tlirough Asia from East to West, but 
 along the less direct highwa\' of the Ocean. 
 
 The name '"Orange"" comes from the Sanscrit 
 "Xagarunga"" or "Xagrunga'". The Arabs have altered 
 this to ••Xarunj". tlie Italians to "Xaranzi" or '"Aranci*", 
 the Spaniards to "'Xaranja". the Portugese "Laranja", 
 and lastK' the French to •"Orange"". The name "poma 
 aurantia"", golden apple, used in the Middle Ages, 
 resembles that of '"Orange"' onh' in sound. Put "jioma 
 aurantia"" gave rise to the German "Pomeranze"" and the 
 Polish "Pomaraiicza". 
 
 The Golden Apples of the Hesperides. whicli, 
 according to legend. I lercules brought from the West. 
 
60 THE ORANGE. 
 
 cannot have been Oranges, as is proved by the history 
 of this fruit. Thev were more probabl}' ideaHsed 
 Quinces. These fruits, sacred to Aphrodite, were given 
 as prizes in contests and as bridal gifts in ancient times 
 in Hellas. 
 
 The beauty of a fulh' developed Orange tree adorned 
 with hundreds of g-olden fruits can hardh' be realised 
 on the Riviera or even at Sorrento. I first saw them 
 in their full luxuriance, and about the size of our Apple 
 trees, at the foot of Mount Etna. Theobald Fischer, in 
 his "Beitragen zur physischen Geographic der Mittel- 
 meerlander". asserts that in Sicily a full-grown and well 
 cultivated Orange tree yielded from six to seven hundred 
 and a Lemon tree a thousand to a thousand one hundred 
 fruits. Formerly a hectare of land at Palermo planted 
 with Agrumi brought in on an average three thousand 
 Lire gross profit : whereas the most fertile gardens near 
 Paris onh' bring in two thousand live hundred to two 
 thousand seven hundred Francs for a similar area. But 
 according to Theobald Fischer Orange growing has 
 become less profitable in Sicil}' since then. The in- 
 creasing cultivation of the Orange wherever the climate 
 is suitable to it, especially in the United States, has 
 lowered the prices considerabh'. 
 
 There is an infinite variety of Oranges of which 
 however only a few reach us. Among others is the 
 increasingly popular "Blood Orange", or "Jericho 
 Orange". 
 
 Mandarins (Citrus uobi'h's), are now exported from 
 Italy in great numbers. The shrub, which thrives on the 
 
spi':cib:s OF citrus. 
 
 61 
 
 Riviera oven better tlian tlie Orange tree, is considered 
 as a separate species. It is smaller in all its parts, and 
 easilv recognised hv its rounded, b^sh^' growth. ^Phe 
 Alandarin has been culti\ated in C'hina and L'ochin 
 China from time immemorial ; but it appeared tirst in 
 Europe in 182S. 
 
 Citrus Iicrii'a»n'a, the rind of wliich \iclds the ex- 
 t|uisite perfume known as "Oil of Bergamot", may also 
 be seen in La Mortola (jardens. as well as tlie Ci'lrus 
 jMyrtifolia. The very small fruits of this latter, when 
 perserved in sugar, form the much liked ''Chinois". The 
 sweet Lemon or "Limette", which is onh' a variety ot 
 the ordinar^' Lemon, and is eaten like the sweet Orange, 
 is also grown there. 
 
 A curious shrub is Citrus trifoliata from Japan. It 
 bears trifoliate leaves and is armed with . " 
 
 large, sharp thorns. Except in the struc- 
 ture of its flowers and fruits tliis plant 
 bears no resemblance to the other species '^ 
 
 of Citrus. The perfume of the large, white 
 flowers is not very strong. 
 
 Little was known about the native 
 country of the Orange family until 
 it wuis found wild by explorers. 
 
 Calycotonie 
 sjiinosa 
 
62 BIZZARRIA. 
 
 According to a critical comparison of Engler's discoveries 
 wild Agrumi were found at the foot of the Himalayas 
 and in other neighbouring Indian districts. There, too, 
 the bitter Orange grows wild. The sweet Orange and 
 Mandarin, on the other hand, are indigenous to Cochin 
 China and South China. The origin of the Pample- 
 mousse is still uncertain. 
 
 There is a striking sport, or freak, in the Gardens, 
 indicated in the Catalogue as ''Citrus Aurantuim var. 
 Btiddhajjiigercd^' . The peculiarity consists in the indi- 
 vidual divisions of the Orange growing free instead of 
 being united into a single, round fruit. So that the 
 Orange develops a number of protuberances reminding 
 one slightly of a hand with out-stretched fingers. This 
 led to its being likened in India to Buddha's hand, 
 and gave rise to superstitious fables. Similar freaks 
 occur in the Citrons and Lemons, and are perpetuated 
 b}' grafting. 
 
 Far and away the most remarkable of the *'Agrumi" 
 is the Bizzarria, which bears Oranges, Lemons and 
 Citrons all together. It produces also intermediate forms, 
 as well as fruits which have some of their divisions like 
 those of Oranges and others like those of Lemons or 
 Citrons. Bizzarrias have been described the fruits of 
 which united the characteristics of five different species 
 of Acfrumi. The oriffin of the Bizzarria is not as vet 
 understood. They are considered \)\ some authorities 
 to be hybrids, while others maintain that they arose by 
 the fortuitous blending of the characteristics of the 
 stock and the scion. This would be remarkable, for 
 
CVTISUS AD AMI. 63 
 
 loiiii^ experience in o-ratlin(r frnit trees, roses and otlier 
 plants teaches us that the stock lias no perceptible 
 inthience on tlie scion, and tliat both retain their cliaracter 
 unaltered. Bizzarrias have been known since the middle 
 of the seventeenth centur\'. Th?\' nuist al\va\s have 
 attracted attention on account of their peculiarities. The 
 first Bizzarria to be described was one grown in the 
 Panciatichi Gardens at Florence in 1644. In 1 711 the 
 *'Academie des Sciences'" investigated this plant and 
 came to the conclusion that it was as much a distinct 
 species as the Orange or Lemon. 
 
 There is a small tree grown in our northern gardens 
 which is as peculiar as the Bizzarria and whose origin 
 is equalh' obscure. It is a Laburnum, called Cy//sf(s 
 Adami after the French gardener who introduced it. 
 This graceful and interesting tree is eas\' to grow, so 
 that no garden-lover need be without one. ,The majorit^' 
 of its tlower-clusters are like those of the common 
 Labiu'num {^Cxtisus Lahunntni) but of a dull red colour. 
 Some twigs bear bunches of pure A'ellow flowers, while 
 others have solitary purple llowers. The twigs on which 
 these latter grow are differently shaped, with smaller 
 leaves resembling another species of C^•tisus, C. purptireiis. 
 Lasth' tliis plant produces clusters of tlowers some of 
 which are ^•ellow, some red and others half red and half 
 yellow. Onh' those blossoms which resemble Cyti'sus 
 Laburnum and C. purpurcus produce seed; the others, 
 like those of so man^• h\brids, are barren. Most author- 
 ities are inclined to the opinion now that Cy/isus 
 Adami is a peculiar In brid between C. Lahunium and 
 
64 GRAFTING. 
 
 C. pMrpureus although the gardener Adam, at \^itrv 
 near Paris, stated that he had produced this new plant 
 by grafting C. piirpureus on C. J^ahurnuiu. Proofs of 
 this assertion are not forthcoming and all statements 
 about the blending of characteristics \>\ other means 
 than by crossing, remain unsubstantiated. 
 
 Those plants which bear dissimilar llowers and 
 fruits on the same tree because a branch of another 
 species has been grafted on it. come under quite a 
 different category to the Bizzarria and Cytisus Adanu'. 
 Thus trees bearing both Lemons and Oranges \n?i\ 
 occasionalh' be seen in the gardens of the Riviera. But 
 in this case neither species has anv intiuence upon the 
 other. The uniting of different species on one stem bv 
 grafting is practicable onh' within narrow limits, for the 
 scion and stock must be closely allied. Statements 
 are? however, continually being made to the contrary, 
 and in ancient times stories of Nuts being grafted on Ar- 
 butus, Apples on Planes, and Pears on Ash-trees were 
 commonly believed. Virgil did much to spread these 
 fables by his '"Georgics". Plin^' repeats them, and in- 
 sists moreover that he has himself seen in the "Tiburtes 
 Tullias" a tree which bore nuts on one branch, berries 
 on another and grapes, figs, pomegranates, pears and 
 apples on others. A tree of this sort would indeed pro- 
 vide a large variety of dessert ! What a pity that the 
 '•Tiburtes Tullias" should alone have possessed such a 
 tree, and that it has never been seen since! Again, ac" 
 cording to Plin\', hybrids such as nut-plums, apple-plums, 
 almond-plums and laurel-cherries could be produced \>\ 
 
GRAFTING. 
 
 ()5 
 
 Cafparls 
 spinosa. 
 
 grafting! As earh' as the middle of the 
 lirteenth centur\- Albertus Magnus, con- 
 inced b^' his own observations, contra- 
 licts this statement in his "De Vegetabi- 
 libus". 1 le asserts 
 especially that bolli 
 stock and scion 
 retain their own 
 characteristics, 
 developing each after 
 its own kind. Consider- 
 able progress in horticulture was 
 y made in the middle of the six- 
 teenth century by Kurfiirst August 
 of Saxony, who was so enthusiastic about the 
 cultivation of fruit trees that he himself wrote a 
 "Kiinstlich Obstgarten-Biichlein"' in 1504. Those of his 
 statements which are based on his own experiments 
 are reliable, but even he is occasionally led awa\' by 
 his enthusiasm to relate in good faith that Almond has 
 been grafted upon Willow and Chestnut on Beech, and 
 how Apples thrive and bear red fruits when grafted on 
 Maple ! Le Gendre, one of the chief inventors of the 
 method of training fruit trees as espaliers, took his stand 
 on the ground of actual experience, and in his book 
 "La Maniere de cultiver les Arbres frutiers", of 1652, 
 no mention is made of such wonderful things. 
 
 Unfortunately the Bizzarria is becoming rarer, and 
 hitherto the Mortola Gardens have not succeeded in ob- 
 taining one. However this garden possesses a curious 
 
66 BORAG ES. 
 
 tree bearing fruits like Oranges and Lemons in shape 
 but both orange in colour. 
 
 Visitors to La Mortola will be glad to learn the 
 names and native country of two plants which must have 
 struck them in other gardens — Wig-audia Caracasatia 
 and Jichiuin fru/cscciis. We first admired this V^enezuelan 
 Wigandia on the walls of \'illa Copley; its large violet 
 flowers, with their \'ellow stamens, grow in spikes, which 
 are coiled up at their apex, like a crosier, as are the 
 inflorescences of other representatives of the H\-dro- 
 phyllaceae. These uncoil as the flowers open. This 
 arrangement has the advantage of ensuring a ver^' long 
 flowering period, so that the plant can tide over bad 
 weather, or other unfavourable conditions, without failing 
 to set seeds. Jichium friiicscens, a Borage from Mexico, 
 is closeh' allied to our common Viper's Bugloss (£. vjil- 
 gare). E. frutescens is a giant representative of this 
 latter, and those who know the Viper's Bugloss will at 
 once recognise it as such. It bears the same blue flowers 
 in one-sided spikes, onh' considerabh' larger. 
 
 We now turn to the "noble Laurel", a tree whose 
 twigs have from time immemorial crowned the victor's 
 brow and whose leaves also serve the modest purpose 
 of flavouring our food. The Laurel which seems as clo- 
 sely associated with the Italian landscape as the Agrumi, 
 was certainh' at one time indigenous to South Europe, 
 for palaeontological discoveries have established its exis- 
 tence in prehistoric times not only in Italy but also in 
 the South of France. Its veneration as a sacred plant 
 seems to have come from Asia Minor across the Medi- 
 
11 ii: i,.\lki:l. 67 
 
 terranean. It was sacred to Apollo, and as the sanctu- 
 aries of this god became more numerous in Greece, the 
 groves ot the aromatic and c\ergreen Laurel were multi- 
 plied in the land. The Laurel and the M\rtle, which 
 was dedicated to Aphrodite, were brought ()\er to Ital\' 
 as sacred trees at the time of the introduction of the 
 greek gods. In La Mortola Gardens the Laurel has 
 been j-jlanted to some extent, and has now established 
 itself on the west slope between the road and the 
 garden. 
 
 Shad\' avenues of Laurel and Plane, especialh' on 
 the Campus Martius, delighted the citizens of ancient 
 Rome. The belief that the Laurel afforded protection 
 against demons. sorcer\- and infection, was once univer- 
 sal. Thus we are told that when a plague was imminent 
 the timid Commodus \sought safet^' in a Laurel Grove. 
 ^^ reaths of Laurel were placed on the brows and round 
 the necks of the insane to cure them. Laurel berries or 
 leaves were partaken of hv the priests of Apollo before 
 prophes\-ing; and prophets carried Laurel when entering 
 a town. The Laurel cleansed from blood-guiltiness, and 
 with it the Roman legions purified their standards and 
 weapons directh' after a victor^ . Plence it came to be 
 regarded as an emblem of victor\' and a s^'mbol of 
 successfulh' accomplished campaigns. It was considered 
 as an omen of good fortune that on the da^• when 
 Augustus was born the Laurel tree in front of tlie l\da- 
 tine sprouted, l^he cleansing properties of the Laurel 
 led to its use as an aspergilluni. The devotee dipped 
 Laurel leaves into the hoh' water and sprinkled himself 
 
 3 
 
68 THE LAUREL. 
 
 as he entered or left the temple, and liked to take away 
 a leaf of it in his mouth. The Roman Catholic Church 
 discarded Laurel twigs as aspergilla and adopted the 
 Hyssop {Origanum Smyriiaeuiu) for that purpose from 
 the Jews. 
 
 According to Plin\' the Laurel does not burn freely. 
 This is proved b^' its crackling. The power of warding 
 off lire was ascribed to this tree because in the con- 
 flagration during the consulship of Spurius Postumius and 
 Piso the Sacrarium, protected as was supposed by a 
 Laurel which stood in front of it, remained intact while 
 the Regia was in flames. On the other hand Laurel 
 wood was used \i\ the ancients in the kindling of lire ; 
 it did not, however, ignite itself, but, as Theophrastus 
 and Pliny report, formed the rubbing stick, while the 
 base or socket, which took lire b\' friction, usually con- 
 sisted of Buckthorn (Rhammis) or \v\ wood. A pure 
 sacrificial lire might onlv be kindled bv the friction of 
 two pieces of lucky wood, or bv the sun's raAS concen- 
 trated by means of a burning glass, or concave metal 
 mirrors. Laurel was also said to ward off lightning; and 
 therefore the superstitious Tiberius, as Suetonius relates, 
 crowned himself with a wTeath of this plant when a 
 storm was threatening. Certain observations maA' have 
 given rise to the belief that the Laurel possesses peculiar 
 storm repelling powers, for some trees are less frequently 
 struck by lightning than others. In our own country 
 Walnut trees are very seldom struck and Oaks the most 
 frequently. The reason for this is that the conducting 
 power of wood varies much in different species. It 
 
THI-: CAMPHOR TREE. 69 
 
 appears from experiments wliich ha\e been made, that 
 those trees which contain much oil in their wooch' tissue 
 at the time ol \ ear when storms are irecjuent, are the least 
 exposed to the ravages of lightning. Dead branches on 
 a tree increase the chances of its being struck. It must 
 have been earh' noticed that the Oak was most freciuenth' 
 struck, hence it was sacred to the God of Thunder. 
 The contrar\- supposition is not so well founded in the 
 case of the Laurel, at an\' rate it lias been questioned. 
 
 The Camphor tree (Ci>niamonium Camphora) belongs 
 to the Laurel family and is a native of Western China 
 and Japan. It grows to a line tree on the Italian Lakes 
 but does not llourish here as the calcareous soil does not 
 suit it. The evergreen leaves of the Camphor tree are 
 much thinner than those of the Laurel, and as they 
 grow on long stalks the foliage has a less dense appear- 
 ance. In addition to this the leaves are of a much 
 lighter green, shinv above, glaucous below. When bruis- 
 ed the leaves emit a strong smell of Camphor; the 
 Camphor, however, is not procured in an\' great quantity 
 from these, but from the wood of the tree b^' sublimation. 
 
 Closeh' related to the Camphor tree is the Cinnamon 
 (Cinnamomiim 7.eylaniciim) whose shiny green leaves 
 when cruslied smell of carnations. The Cinnamon of 
 commerce consists of the bark of \oung shoots of the 
 Cinnamon tree, which are cut off and peeled after heav\- 
 rain. The bark is allowed to dr\- first in the shade and 
 them in the sun, so that the Hakes curl up together and 
 form little rolls. Hence the German name of "Kaneel" 
 from ''canella", a little reed or tube. 
 
 •3 
 
70 PERvSEA GRATISSIMA. 
 
 In unpleasant contrast to these aromatic Laurineae 
 is another representative of the same famih', Oreodaphne 
 californica^ an evergreen tree which grows well here and 
 whose specific name indicates its native country. In 
 gardens it is frequently labelled Laiinis regalis, and 
 indeed it is verv like the Laurel. The leaves, however, 
 when rubbed emit a volatile oil the smallest quantit^' of 
 which is sufticient to irritate the mucous membrane of 
 the nose intensely. The inhabitants of California avoid 
 these trees or keep to the windward side of them, as 
 the volatile oil which they diffuse provokes continued 
 sneezing. 
 
 Another of the Laurineae, the Persea gratissima, 
 may be seen at La Mortola. It is much grown in 
 tropical gardens and bears the "Alligator Pear" or 
 "Midshipman's Butter". The crown of this beautiful 
 tree is dome-shaped and its leaves resemble those of the 
 Laurel. The fruits, which are generally pear-shaped, 
 though frequently very irregular, have a stone in the 
 middle. The pulp melts like butter in the mouth and 
 smells like musk-melon. The Mexicans are very fond 
 of these Alligator Pears made into salad, and vie with 
 one another in the tasty preparation of it. In other 
 countries they are eaten with lemon-juice and sugar and 
 even with meat. All animals are fond of these fruits 
 and resfard them as delicacies. Persea o-raiissima is 
 indigenous to tropical America. The name "Persea", 
 given it by the botanist Gartner, has nothing to do 
 with that Persea which was so highly valued by the 
 Egyptians. In the opinion of Schweinfurt the Persea 
 
THE GUAV'A. 
 
 71 
 
 honoured b\- tlie Ei^^•ptia^s and described b^' Theoplirastiis, 
 was J/iniiisops Schuiipcri. This stateh' tree, with its 
 oblong, leather^', long-stalked leaves is nearh' related to 
 the Ebon^^ These leaves were ^\-S\ ' 
 folded together and \\-o\en into 
 wreaths and garlands for the 
 dead. And the\' are still found 
 today, often combined with the 
 petals of the blue Lotus 
 {^^yniphaea cocnilca), on 
 mummies whom they decked 
 when laid to rest fifteen hun- 
 dred \ears before our era. 
 bolised the "Garland of Justification" 
 which the wandering soul received on 
 
 its entrance to the Taser. The Persea 
 
 tree has now vanished from Egypt, but 
 
 it grows in Abyssinia and the 
 
 neighbouring countries. — Anoth 
 
 er tropical fruit tree of which 
 
 one may obtain a good 
 
 idea in the Mortola Gardens 
 
 is the Psidhun which bears 
 
 the Guava. The 
 
 Psidiiuii, which 
 
 belongs to the M\ rtaceae, is 
 
 cultivated in all tropical land>. 
 
 where in some ways it takes the place 
 
 seberr\- bush; it is ver}' fruitful and is 
 
 pagated. The plants of this genus grow 
 
 - entranthns ruber . 
 
 of our Goo- 
 easily pro- 
 into bushes 
 
72 THE DIOSPYROS. 
 
 or small trees; their leaves are evergreen and thev bear 
 fruits which var\- in size from that of a walnut to that of an 
 egg. The fruits are eaten "au naturel'', or with wine and 
 sugar. The flavour of some is like strawberries; others 
 are bitter-sweet ; others again have such a penetrating 
 odour that thev are not relished bv all. Guava Jellv is 
 much esteemed in the tropics, and it is now being 
 introduced into Europe. 
 
 The wood of the Diospvros, which belongs to the 
 Ebonv familv, is of more importance than its fruit. The 
 Kaki tree (Diospxrus Kahi) is a native of China and 
 Japan, and mav \vell flourish at La Mortola considering 
 at it can stand the winter, in sheltered places, even 
 on the Rhine. It is a small tree with ovate leaves, 
 whitish-yellow flowers, and round, reddish-^-ellow fruits 
 about the size of a peach. These are sometimes 
 produced in great numbers, when from a distance the 
 tree appears to be covered with large flowers. The 
 fruits must be over-ripe to acquire their full flavour, 
 which is something between that of plums and apricots. 
 They begin to gather them on the Riviera in the middle 
 of October but the fruits then taste so astringent as to 
 be hardlv edible. For this reason thev are often left 
 on the trees until the weather becomes too cold, when 
 the-v are .brought into well-ventilated, rooms to finish 
 ripening. These fruits are frequentlv to be seen in the 
 market at Nice, often in such quantities that a dozen 
 may be bought for one franc. In the south east of 
 Asia thev are considered a great delicacv when dried, 
 and are called "Kaki Figs". The wood somewhat 
 
MAN(;o. — PKPn:K i"ki:i:. 73 
 
 resembles that ot cnir Walnut and is used in Jajian : but 
 it is tar interior to the timber ot" JJiospvros J£bc/iiii]i, 
 troni South India and L'e\lon, and other allied species 
 which \ ield Ebon\ . The black ''heart-wood" ot" this 
 tree was prized e\ en in ancient times, and it was con- 
 sidered tlie most valuable of all woods. Not onh' 
 Theophrastus but the Old Testament also is full of 
 its praises. i'he remarkable closeness of its grain and 
 its dark colour make it ver\' valuable. Ebon\- has 
 alwa\s been easil\- distinguished from stained wood bv 
 its weight. 
 
 Tlie Mango tree, J/angi'fcra Indira belonging to the 
 Anacardiaceae, which bears the most delicious fruit of 
 the tropics, will not grow at \Iortola; but other trees 
 of this famih' \\r<x\ be seen there. For instance Schimis 
 Molle, a tree with bright green pinnate leaves and 
 bunches of red berries, which is ver\' commonh- met with 
 in the gartlens and on the roads of the Riviera. It is 
 called "Pepper Tree" because of its berries which are 
 like pepper-corns but it is not related to the real pepper. The 
 true pepper, Piper iiio-riiiu, comes from a slender East 
 Indian liana, which climbs like the \v\, clinging to its 
 support b\' aerial roots. The berries of Schiniis Afolle 
 resemble those of the true pepper both in ap]:)earance 
 and flavour. A drink made from these berries in Peru 
 and Brazil is said to taste like wine. 
 
 Another interesting plant at La Mortola, belonging 
 to the Anacardiaceae, is P/ius siicccdouca which ^•ields 
 the Japanese wax, and RJiu:^ vcnu'cifcra, from whose 
 milk\ juice the Japanese prepare their famous lacquer. 
 
74 THE LOTUS. 
 
 This very poisonous milky juice flows from incisions 
 which are made in the bark. The lacquer is prepared 
 by adding Cinnabar and oil extracted from Bignonia 
 ocymoides. Rhus vernicifera will grow out of doors in 
 the warmer parts of Germany. 
 
 We must not neglect those species of Zyziphus which 
 we come across in Mortola Gardens; for to this family 
 belongs the Zyziphus Lotus which is indigenous to South 
 Europe. Zyziphus Lotus is apparenth' the bush whose 
 fruits are mentioned by Homer. Its fruits were an im- 
 portant article of food for the poor; and in those days 
 the inhabitants of Tunis and Tripoli were called "Loto- 
 phagi" because they liyed principally on them. Many 
 different plants went by the name of Lotos or Lotus in 
 ancient times, and were distinguished by the names of 
 their natiye countries. Thus Zyziphus Lotus was the 
 Cyrenian Lotus, Nyrnphaea Lotos the Egyptian Lotos, 
 NeluDihiiou speciosuni the sacred Lotos of the Hindoos, 
 while those '"Lotos trees", which adorned the pubHc 
 gardens at Rome, were probably Celtis austrah's, the 
 "Nettle tree", which grows in our own gardens. At 
 least according to old Matthiolus of Siena, the classical 
 commentator of Dioscorides, it was this tree which the 
 Romans called "Lybian Lotus". They liked it because 
 of its ample shade, and because it afforded abundant 
 shelter for the birds. In 92 B. C. there were six Lotos 
 trees in the garden of the orator Crassus on the Palatine 
 Hill. They stood as high as the Palace. It was consi- 
 dered a serious loss, when 150 years later they were de- 
 stroyed in the conflagration during Nero's reign. Celtis 
 
THE JLJLBE TREE. 75 
 
 austrah's is a South European tree ; it tlierefore did well 
 in Rome and ripened its cherr\--like stone-fruits "gustu 
 suavi non ingrato'". which are at first red and turn black. 
 Celtis belong-s to the Elm famih', while the irenus Zvzi- 
 phus belongs to the Rhamnaceae. The fruits of Z\zipluis 
 Loins are as large as sloes, and the meah' substance 
 which surrounds the stone can be used for making bread 
 and also for the preparation of a fermented beverage. 
 The favourite Jujubes of commerce were formerlv made 
 from tlie fruits of other species, especialh' from those of 
 Zvziphus vidg-an's, a small S^■rian tree, and of Z. jujiiha 
 which comes from India. ^Vccording to tradition the Crown 
 of Thorns was made from the strongly armed Zyziphiis 
 Spina Christi, the "Xebeg"' or "Ssidr", which is widely 
 distributed in the Vale of Jordan, and round the Dead 
 Sea. The spinous Gleditschia, cultivated in our Northern 
 gardens, is called ''Christ's Acacia" in German\- and has 
 been also mentioned in connection witli tlie Crown of 
 Thorns. This however involves a gross anachronism, 
 for the Gleditschias were brought to Europe from North 
 America as late as the eighteenth centur\'. Plants of the 
 Genus Zvziphus lose their leaves in winter; but they deck 
 themselves earh- with their very dark green foliage. The 
 twigs are slender and pendulous, and when the fruits 
 turn red. the effect is \q.x\ graceful. 
 
 The plant from which we obtain the Capers, Cap- 
 paris spinosa (Fig. p. 65) is a handsome shrub. It may 
 be found all along the Riviera on rocks and old walls 
 but is met with in still greater profusion on the North 
 African coast. It flowers in summer, \\hen the thin, droop- 
 
SOLAN UMS. 
 
 ing branches, with their round, thickisli leaves, are ador- 
 ned with large blossoms of striking beauty. They are an 
 ornament to the Mediterranean flora. The tuft of straggling 
 stamens, with their long, violet filaments set in the 
 snow-w^hite petals, lends to the whole a delicate, one might 
 almost sav poetic, appearance. In the spring indeed only 
 flov/erless plants are to be seen at La Mortola. In many 
 places on the Riviera, at Grasse for instance, the Caper 
 is grown in quantities. It is the flower-buds, and not the 
 fruits, which are eaten. These buds are gathered in summer 
 and preserved in vinegar. Several thousand kilos of Cap- 
 ers are exported \'earh' from Provence. 
 
 Manv a visitor to La Mortola Gardens will pause to 
 admire a kind of Nightshade, Solaiium Melongena, which 
 is called "Aubergine" in France. It bears fruits the size and 
 shape of a hen's ^^g\ hence the name of "Egg-plant"' which 
 is applied to several of the Solanums. Seeing these fruits 
 in La Mortola Gardens reminds us that we have often 
 noticed them before in Italian markets. The purple-fruited 
 Auberpfine is the most commonh- a^rown in Itah' : but 
 ^-ellow and white varieties are also cultivated. These 
 fruits, when cooked, are often used to garnish roast joints 
 on Italian tables, and also served up as vegetables. In 
 the north our use of the Solanaceous fruits is limited to 
 Tomatoes and Chillies. Nearh- all the other fruits of 
 this family are poisonous, and cannot be used as food. 
 Fortunateh' we have no experience of the "Cannibals' 
 Tomato" which ripens on a shrubb^' Nightshade called 
 Solanuni aiithropophagorum . According to travellers 
 the Fiji Islanders prepare from this fruit a sauce which 
 
siKi:i'r()S()Li:N. — dailra. — nicopiana. 77 
 
 ^P^ 
 
 is indispensable to a cannibal feast. Small plantations 
 
 of these Solanuins were always found near the places 
 
 where the cannibals held their feasts. The aborescent 
 
 Solan ion 1 1 arszciviczii 
 
 can also be seen at 
 
 La Mortola, but the 
 
 fruits of this plant do 
 
 not o-row bio-ger than cherries. 
 
 The Strcptosoloi bushes, 
 which we have alread^• admired 
 at the Point St Louis, stand out 
 conspicuoush- in Mortola ^XJa'--: 
 Gardens. It is eas\- to 
 recognise the big, bush}' 
 J)ati(ras as Solanums, even 
 when the\' bear huge, blood-red 
 tlowers, for the^" resemble our 
 own Thornapple. Further on 
 a Nicotiana from Columbia ( ^\ Jli- 
 o-andioides), attracts our attention. It 
 is much taller than our tobacco- 
 \-ielding X^icotiana. and bears 
 pendant panicles of gre\'ish- 
 \ellow tlowers in great prolusion. 
 
 Among the herbaceous 
 plants man\- ot the I'mbelli- ,^ v-^ ^ 
 ferae astonish us b\- their '^v^^\^'V- 
 huge size. The^■ are 
 even bigger than the 
 Angelica of our gardens. One of these, (i i' ii„c,u<ria maruiun,. 
 
78 GIANT FENNEL. 
 
 Ferula communis, the Giant Femiel, has an interesting 
 history of its own. The plant is indigenous to the southern 
 countries of the Mediterranean, where it grows thickly in 
 certain spots, generalh' near the sea. It will attain a height 
 of three yards in quite a short time, spreading its huge, 
 yellow umbels aboye the lineh- dissected leayes. In 
 ancient times walking sticks were made from the stem, 
 and as the\- are yer^• tough the\' were used for chastising 
 slaves and children. These were rendered more effica- 
 cious by being soaked in water as birch rods were at 
 one time. The name Ferula is derived from fcn'rc to 
 strike. The plant was sacred to Bacchus and the Th\Tsus 
 represented a Fennel rod wound round with \'ine and Ivy, 
 The pith is ver^' spongy and is still used in Sicily as 
 tinder. A spark will smoulder for a long while in the 
 pith; and this fact gave rise to the stor^' that Prometheus 
 brought the fire which he stole from Zeus, down to earth 
 in a Fennel stem. Manuscripts have been kept in hollow- 
 ed out Fennel stems: and most parts of the plant have 
 been used medicinalh'. It is not surprising then that this 
 plant was valued by the ancients. Ferula Scorodosma of 
 the Persian Steppes, a plant six feet high with great yellow 
 umbels, is closely related to the Fennel. It forms regu- 
 lar thickets in the regions between the sea of Aral and 
 the Persian Gulf. The gum-resin known as Asafoetida 
 is extracted chietl\' from the roots of this plant. It smells 
 like a mixture of garlic and balsam of Peru. The specific 
 name scorodosma comes from scorodon, garlic, and osma, 
 smell. When sheep feed on this plant in Afghanistan 
 their milk smells strongly of garlic. Ferula Scorodosma 
 
|.\P.\Ni:SK Mi:i)L. \RS. 79 
 
 was certainh known to the ancients, thoui^li it nia\' be 
 ditticnlt to prove that it corresponded to their Siljihium 
 and tliat Asatoetida was tlicir "Laser"". Silphiuni was 
 once nuicli used in medicine; and e\en t()da\' Asatoetida 
 is said to he an important in<(redient of the curr\- witli 
 wliicli rice is served in hidia. hi France soup-phites were 
 sometimes rubbed with Asatoetida to fhivour the soup. 
 
 The frrex'-leaved, evergreen tree Iiriohotria or Pho- 
 liiiia japoin'ca, which bears the "Japanese medhirs'', is 
 so common in the o-ardens of the Riviera that we greet 
 it as an old friend at La Mortohi. Tlie sub-acid tiavour 
 of tliese fruits is tamiliar to most of us: the^' are about 
 the size of plums, and the better sorts when quite ripe 
 are ver^' palatable. The tree appears to be indigenous 
 to China, and according to Rein was brought to Eng- 
 land b\' Sir Joseph Banks in l/**^?, together with other 
 useful and ornamental plants. It is now to be met with 
 all over Itah'. and even on the Lake of Geneva. 
 
 Those who know the gardens of the Riviera must 
 have noticed PJiotiiiia sernilaia, a small tree related to 
 the Eriobotria. The flat, white panicles of tlowers shine 
 out among the big, laurel-like leaves. At a distance 
 the tree looks like our tlowering Elder, and at the first 
 glance one would hardh' take it for one of the Rosaceae. 
 
 Another interesting plant which one ma\- make ac- 
 cjuaintance with at La Mortola is the Quillaja sapoiiaria, 
 a stateh' tree with small, stiff leaves, also belonging 
 to the Rosaceae. Its bark, which we obtain trom Chile 
 under the name of Panama wood, is rich in saponine, 
 lathers in water like soap, and is commonh' used as 
 
80 THE CAROB. 
 
 such in Chile. With us it is used for washing wool and 
 silk and also for cosmetic purposes. 
 
 The Carob, or Locust tree (Ccratonia siliqua) is 
 naturally represented in La Mortola gardens, for it is 
 common everywhere on the Riviera. This picturesque 
 tree maA- be seen here to the best advantage. The 
 ramification resembles that of the oak; but the Carob is 
 easily distinguished h\ its pari-pinnate, leathery leaves. 
 In spring the pods are still so small and green that 
 thcA' must be searched for among the twigs; later on 
 they become larger and more conspicuous because of 
 their brown colour. The pods are sugarA' when ripe and 
 are esteemed a great luxury hx German children who 
 purchase them at fairs under the name of "Johannis- 
 brod". Here, however, they are used ever^'where as food 
 for horses. A sweet juice, tasting like honcA', is ex- 
 pressed from the ripe pods, and this is called in the 
 East "Keratameli". 
 
 From these Carobs also the KabA'les prepare their 
 national dish, the Tomina, which is made b\' powdering 
 the pods and adding groats or pea-flour and Olive oil. 
 The seeds are removed. iVccording to legend St. John 
 lived on Carobs in the desert; hence the German name 
 of the tree, "Johannisbrodbaum''. The ripe seeds inside 
 the husks are remarkable for the uniformity of their 
 size. For this reason thcA' were formerh' used in weigh- 
 ing gold and diamonds, and were the origin of the 
 "Carat". "Carat" is derived from "Keratia", the Greek 
 name for this fruit. The wild Carob tree is indigenous 
 to the East Mediterranean region; but the cultivated 
 
IRISES. 81 
 
 tree, which produces better fruit, appears to have been 
 spread over the southern countries by the Arabs. 
 
 A charming "rropaeolum ( T. petiiaphyllum) is seen 
 climbing in ukuu' places in the Gardens. It is a South 
 Brazilian plant and has scarlet, long-spurred ilovvers. The 
 small, \ello\vish-red petals ma\' be discovered between 
 the short, green, caUx tips. The fruit is also ver\' 
 prettv : it consists of three dark violet, one-seeded "ber- 
 ries" which are frequenth' eaten in Brazil. 
 
 Everx'where within the precincts of the garden the 
 ground is ga\- with the man\--coloured Spara.xis tricolor 
 and o-raiidijlora, an Iris from the Cape. In the spring 
 these flowers are sent in quantities to the North together 
 with bright Ixias, vellow Tritonias and golden, sweet- 
 scented Freesias. Almost every gradation of colour is to 
 be found in the flowers of the Sparaxis between scarlet, 
 vermilion, carmine, blood-red and purple : rose-red, lilac 
 and white: brown-red, violet and even black. The 
 flowers are also often chequered and marbled or 
 watered; but generalh' \'ellowish and ornamented with 
 dark spots at the base of the corollas. Gav also are 
 the innumerable Irises which grow here on all sides, 
 flowers whose characteristic shape is well known to us 
 in the Xortli. l"he genus takes its name from the rain- 
 bow, ''Iris'', because all colours are represented in the 
 blossoms. In the pictures of the old masters the Iris, 
 together with white Lilies and Roses, figure as attributes 
 of the Queen of Heaven. Under the name of "Lih" it 
 formed part of the arms of the Kings of France. 
 Louis XI conferred it as a badge on Piero de' Medici 
 
82 THE TEA PLANT. 
 
 and thus a "red lih" entered also into the arms of the 
 town of Florence. 
 
 Many attempts have been made to grow Tea and 
 Coffee plants at La Mortola. but neither flourishes and 
 both eventualh- perish. The Tea plant can. in favourable 
 conditions, grow to a height of fifteen \'ards : it then 
 looks quite like a Camellia, and in fact belongs, as does 
 that plant, to the Ternstromiaceae. Indeed it is now 
 actualh' classed in the same genus with the Camellia as 
 C. Thea. The name Camellia has an almost poetical 
 sound, perhaps because it reminds one of ''La Dame aux 
 Camelias". But its origin is prosaic enough. It is deri- 
 ved from Kamel the famih' name of a Jesuit father, 
 who brought the Camellia to Spain from Alanilla more 
 than 150 vears ago. Linnaeus named the plant after 
 this same George Kamel, who also called himself Ca- 
 melus, and gave it the specific name of "japonica" as 
 it had originalh- reached Manilla from Japan. The 
 flowers of the Tea tree are ver\' like single Camellias 
 and both have the same profusion of stamens. As long 
 as it survives at La Mortola the Tea tree blossoms in 
 September. The flowers, which are porcelain-white suf- 
 fused with pink, have not much perfume. The differ- 
 ence between the various sorts of tea are due to the 
 age of the leaves, their treatment, and the season at 
 which they are gathered. According to the Rev. B. C. 
 Henry, Camellia TJiea is still found wild in large quanti- 
 ties in the interior of the island of Hainon, in South China. 
 
 The Arabian Coffee tree, Coffea arabica, is a small, 
 evergreen, p^•ramidal tree between five and six ^•ards 
 
Jlli: COFFEE PLANT. 
 
 83 
 
 high. The dark leaves are opposite 
 and decussate, and the white, 
 orange-scented llowers are crowd- 
 ed into the axils of the upper 
 leaves. The dark red ber- 
 ries which are tlie size 
 of clierries, contain the so- 
 called coffee beans. The Coffee 
 plant takes its name from the 
 hilh- countr\- in Abys- 
 sinia called ''Kafa''. 
 5 .^ The Southern pro- 
 \inces of Upper Ab^•s- 
 
 tfci •„-■- ^^ ' sinia are generallv consi- 
 
 ' ^rrj B V , ' '^^V*/"^ dered to be the home of 
 
 M<^^p^,-. ^ the Arabian Coffee plant: re- 
 
 centh', however, it has been found 
 wild near Lake Mctoria N^•anza and 
 in West Africa, so that Central Africa ma\- well have 
 been its original home. Africa has lately given us a 
 second kind of Coffee plant, Coffca libcrica. This tree 
 grows at a lower elevation than the other, and inhabits 
 the tropical coast districts. It is more sensiti\e to 
 changes of temperature but stands the sea winds better 
 than the other Coffee plant. The cultivation of this 
 tree is increasing in tropical countries on account of the 
 size and superior aroma of its berries. 
 
 A shrub belonging to the Celastraceae. which is 
 culti\'ated in the Coffee gardens of Arabia and Abvs- 
 sinia, ma\' be seen at La \h)rlola. It is much bra.nched. 
 
84 KHAT. — MATE. — KOLA-NUTS. 
 
 bears leathery, lanceolate leaves and is called Catha 
 edulis. This is the ''Khat" or "Cafta'" plant whose dried 
 leaves are chewed like tobacco bv the Arabs and also 
 used to make tea. In South America the leaves of a 
 plant indigenous to Paraguav and Brazil, Hex para- 
 guayeiisis, are used as tea. It is one of the Aquifoliaceae 
 and is closeh' related to the "Khat". The leaves are 
 known there as "Yerba'' or "Mate". It is, however, one 
 of the Sterculiaceae, Sterculia acuminata or Cola acumi- 
 nata, which provides the African Negro with his "Kola- 
 nuts''. These fruits are like Spanish chestnuts and have 
 a slighth' bitter llavour. Thev are much valued b\' the 
 Negroes for thev are said to strengthen the bodv, to 
 make bad water drinkable, to be a remed\- for all sorts 
 of complaints, to appease hunger and raise the spirits. 
 As a matter of fact the Kola -nut contains both Thein, 
 like tea and coffee, and Theobromin like cocoa. The 
 use of this fruit is beginning to extend to England. Jlex 
 paraguavensis and Sterculia acuminata are not grown at 
 La Mortola; but other species closeh' resembling them 
 may be seen there. 
 
 In La Mortola Gardens, as elsewhere on the Western 
 Riviera, Camellias, Rhododendrons and Azalias do not seem 
 to nourish as well as other plants. The few specimens to be 
 seen are not nearly as line and well developed as those on 
 the Italian Lakes. The calcareous soil which prevails on this 
 part of the Riviera does not suit them, and moreover they 
 require a damper atmosphere during the growing season. 
 
 Fragrant Balsams were an important article of trade 
 in ancient times and in the Middle Ages. The solid 
 
BALSAMS. 85 
 
 stonix used b\' the Jews as incense was one of these. 
 It was obtained b\- niakini^ incisions in the bark of a 
 small tree, S/vrax oflicina/i's. which thrives at La Mortola. 
 In foliai^e the tree resembles the C^uince, and its white, 
 sweet-scented flowers with their golden stamens also 
 open in Ma\- and June like those of the Quince. Storax 
 is now obtained from se^■eral species of Lic[uidambar, 
 and especialh' from the Oriental "Amber-tree", /,. on'cn- 
 tcilis, which grows in the provinces of Caria and L\xia 
 in Asia Minor. In appearance the tree resembles a Plane 
 The liquid Balsam obtained from the "Amber-tree'" is 
 much used in incense and ointments. 'V\\e fragrant INhrrh 
 which the ancient P2g^■ptians used in embalming and 
 which later pla^■ed a part in the religious worship of the 
 Greeks, was obtained, as Detler and Schweinturth have 
 prov^ed. from Bahduiodcudrou abyssiiiictaii, a tree about 
 ten ^'ards high which grows in South .Vrabia, Er\'threa 
 and northern Ab\ssinia. This plant is easih' recognised 
 h\ its leaves which consist of one large leaflet with a 
 smaller one on each side. An opaejue, ^-ellow sap flows 
 from incisions in the bark and when dried is known as 
 M\rrh. The Boswellias, which \\e\6. the incense known 
 as Olibanum, grow in the Xorth-east of tropical xA.frica and 
 in southern India. TheA' belong with the Balsamodendron 
 to the Burceraceae or Balsam trees. The Roman Catholic 
 Church long ago gave the preference to the gum-resin 
 of these trees as M\rrh was difficult to obtain in sufficient 
 quantities and was not so well adapted for use as incense. 
 Indigofcra f/'nclon'a. which gro\\s in Mortola (Jardens, 
 is interesting as one of the principal indigo-vielding 
 
86 INDIGO. 
 
 plants. This small, leguminous shrub is indigenous to 
 India, but is now grown in many countries within the 
 tropics and even in a few localities near Naples. It 
 bears imparipinnate leaves and white or pink flowers. 
 The pretty hidigofera Dosua, a closely related plant 
 from the Himalayas, is to be seen in our gardens. In 
 autumn the whole bush is covered with a profusion of 
 drooping pink flower clusters. The favourite blue dye 
 known as Indigo is not present as such in Indigofera or 
 any other plant. But when the plant is cut and the air 
 admitted to the apparently colourless tissues the exposed 
 surface at once turns blue. The technical process is as 
 follows: the plant is cut up and allowed to ferment in 
 water. The liquid turns a deep yellowish green and is 
 poured off. It is then stirred and beaten so that it may 
 be thoroughly impregnated with the Oxygen of the air. 
 In this manner the Indigo is precipitated as an insoluble 
 powder. This forms the purest and most valuable vege- 
 table dye, and was known to the ancients and prized by 
 them as Indicum. Bagdad was formerly, as London is 
 now, the chief market for this dye. 
 
 The familiar outline of the Conifers is prominent 
 among the strange, exotic vegetation of La Mortola 
 Gardens. Even the most southern species are easily 
 recognised as are also the fantastic Araucarias, which are 
 so often grown in our gardens. 
 
 We frequently see Cycads in our northern green- 
 houses, but here many of them grow in the open. The 
 uninitiated will be surprised to learn that the Cycads 
 are classed next to the Conifers. For the Cycad, with 
 
llli: iJAMliOO. 87 
 
 its unbranched stem and terminal rosette of large 
 pinnate leaves, is far more like a Palm. This outward 
 resemblance, which is their onl\- ]x)int in common, has 
 led to L^cad leaxes being called Palm fronds, and used 
 at funerals as such. This is however a misconception. 
 For according to tradition Palm fronds, and not C\'cad 
 leaves, should be laid on coffins; Palms fronds were 
 carried b\' Christian mart\rs, and are represented on the 
 tombs in the Catacombs. 
 
 We have alread\' made acquaintance with Palms at 
 Bordighera. but the innumerable Bamboos, which attain a 
 great size in Mortola Gardens, are less familiar. Those 
 who are accustomed to think of grasses as lowly meadow 
 herbs will be surprised to find that the common Bamboo 
 (Bamhiisa ariindiiiacea), which can attain a height of 
 100 feet, is one of these. In our own wild reed we have 
 a grass of some height. The Bamboos resemble our 
 reed, but while the latter is of verv little use to us, 
 there is hardh' a plant in hot countries which is applied 
 to such a variety of purposes as is the common Bamboo. 
 The voung shoots from the stock are a tast^' vegetable. 
 The Chinese like them also prepared as a sweetmeat 
 which is often mixed with ginger. Barriers, fences and 
 all sorts of wattle-work are made from the younger 
 stems, and rulers, measuring-rods, prettily woven baskets, 
 wallets and cases from the split stems. Mats, rain-cloaks 
 and hats are made from the leaves, which are also used 
 in packing tea. ^'oung leaves ser\e as food for cattle. 
 From the fibres ot the stem the Chinese make a much- 
 \alued paper which we use in art printing. Both frame 
 
THE BAMBOO. 
 
 and paper of the Chinese fans consist entirely of Bamboo. 
 In spite of their hght weight the hollow stems have 
 remarkable strength and are used for constructions which 
 require great durability. The whole surface of the stems 
 is silicious, which accounts for their lasting so long both 
 above and under ground. And for this reason the\' are 
 often used as water-pipes and gutters after the partiti- 
 ons have been removed. On the other hand these 
 partitions permit of the single joints of the stem being 
 used as buckets and flower-pots. Bridges, rafts, beds, 
 chairs, tables, carrying-poles, rakes and harrows are all 
 made of Bamboo. Mattresses and furniture are stuffed 
 with its fibres. Bamboo ladders are in special favour. 
 Vessels for food and drink, combs and even surgical 
 instruments are made from it. And. as though to prove 
 that the Bamboo can be put to ever^- possible use, the 
 inhabitants of Borneo and Sumatra make lamps and 
 candles from it. In the former the^' burn Damara resin, 
 while the latter are made b\- tillinp- stems with resin 
 when both burn down together. Bamboo sticks are 
 familiar to most of us: they are hollow, jointed shoots 
 from the stock. The slender stems of the East Indian 
 Rattan Palm {Calaiuiis Rotang)^ after their prickh' outer 
 covering has been removed, are often sold as Bamboos. 
 But the real trade name for the Rattan cane is "Spanish 
 Cane". The Bamboo supplies useful material for weapons: 
 and lances and javelins of unsurpassed lightness and 
 strength are made from it. The Chinese soldier carries 
 a Bamboo sunshade covered with varnished mulberry- 
 paper. On the other hand the Bamboo contributes not 
 
Tin: i;.\.MHO(). 
 
 89 
 
 a little to the enjovment of life hv its adaptabilit^' for 
 making musical instruments, for from the hollow inter- 
 nodes of the stem ilutes, clarionets and sounding-boards 
 arc made. Even strings are made of Bamboo. Indeed 
 C. Schroter tells us that the ancient Chinese constructed 
 a kind of telephone out of Bamboo hv which tl^n- 
 connected their outposts. The hollows in \oung stems 
 generalh' contain clear water, with which travellers in 
 India and in the mountains of Java cjuench their thirst. 
 The Bamboo plant seldom tlowers : but when this occurs 
 there is a rich harvest of grain, The seeds are eaten 
 like rice, or 'made into bread, and on more than one 
 occasion, as for instance in 1812, a famine has been 
 averted by the timely flowering of the Bamboos. So 
 ~-^, that Wallace, one of the authorities 
 best acquainted with the tropics, might 
 ^' justly declare that the Bamboo is an 
 invaluable product of those regions. The 
 Chinese and Japanese, and the inhabitants 
 
 of India and the 
 
 K r--^ 
 
 Indian Archi- 
 pelago have 
 learnt howto util- 
 ise the Bamboo 
 
 p\ — ^ 
 
 Cist lis moiisjieliensis. 
 
90 TABASHIR. 
 
 to the fullest extent. In China whole villages are built 
 of Bamboo. The effect produced by a fire in one of 
 these villages is said to be very curious. For the air 
 imprisoned in the internodes of the Bamboo stems 
 becomes heated and they explode with loud reports. At a 
 distance this sounds like cannonading, and in this noise 
 the natives of the Molluccas fancy that they hear 
 distinctly "Bamboo, Bamboo". 
 
 It is natural that primitive peoples should have 
 attributed hidden healing powers to a plant which was 
 of such universal utility. And accordingly the Chinese 
 use root-stocks, young shoots, the sap, the seeds and 
 certain excrescences of the Bamboo as medicaments. 
 A curious formation, which is found in the hollow inter- 
 nodes of the stem and is called "Tabashir", was much 
 renowned as a remed^^ Roman doctors at the time 
 of the Empire used it much, reiving on the reputation 
 it had acquired in the East. But in the tenth and 
 eleventh centuries Tabashir became universallv known 
 through the Arabian doctors, and it is still considered 
 all over the East as a specially efiicacious remedy. 
 When first found in the Bamboo stem Tabashir is a 
 dirtv-white, brown, or black lump, but under heat it turns 
 white and is converted into a substance resembling 
 chalcedonv. This substance sometimes looks white and 
 opaque, sometimes blueish-white, translucent and irides- 
 cent. Tabashir is in realitv nothing more than common 
 silica discoloured b^' some vegetable substance from 
 which it is cleansed bv heating. The patient might 
 just as well swallow pure sand instead of the Tabashir 
 
TIIK BAMIiOO. 91 
 
 which he has to pa\- so high a price for in the Bazaars. 
 Given the necessar\' faith tlie results should be equal I 
 
 \'er\- instructive observations ma\' be made on the 
 \oung, conelike shoots of the Bamboo when thev are 
 pushing up through the earth in spring. The\' are as 
 thick as a man's arm, and closeh- covered with sheath- 
 like leaves. Water is exuded between these sheaths, bv 
 which means the surrounding earth is moistened and 
 softened, and the^• develop so rapidh' that one is al- 
 most able to observe the process with the naked ere. 
 vSo that the sa\ing becomes a realitv — and aou can 
 see grass grow ! Under specialh- favourable circum- 
 stances a Bamboo shoot will grow half a vard in one 
 dav, thus attaining its full height of 65 feet, or more, in 
 a very short time. A luxuriant thicket of Bamboos is 
 one of the most remarkable sights in the \ egetable World ; 
 but these plants must be seen in the tropics to realise 
 their importance as a feature in the landscape. 
 
 According to the geographer Richter's valuable infor- 
 mation and the no less important researches of the botanist 
 Ferdinand Cohn, it seems highly probable that the sub- 
 stance called hv the ancients "Saccharum", was not Cane 
 Sugar but Tabashir. Bopp tells us that the Sanscrit 
 root "carkara" meant, not anything sweet, but something 
 hard and brittle. In ancient India Tabashir was known 
 as "Sakkar Nambu" or Bamboo Stone. When the crys- 
 talline Cane Sugar was introduced later the Arabs 
 transferred this word to it because of its resemblance to 
 Tabashir. Edmund O. von Lippmann, in his most 
 thorough and exhaustive "Geschichte des Zuckers", also 
 
 4 
 
92 THE SUGAR CANE. 
 
 comes to the conclusion that the "Saccharon" of the 
 ancient world could not have been our sugar. He shows 
 that solid sugar was not known, even in India, until 
 some time between the third and sixth centuries A. D. 
 The Sugar Cane (Sacchariun ofjiciiiariim) is verv 
 like our reed, and, like it, also belongs to the Grasses. 
 Fine specimens ma^' be seen in the Gardens of La Mor- 
 tola. The Sugrar Cane has been cultivated from time 
 immemorial, and as it has been entirely propagated by 
 off-shoots it has almost lost the power of producing 
 seeds. Indeed until a short time ago it was taken for 
 granted that the Sugar Cane never fruited ; careful 
 observations, however, particularly in Java, have shown 
 that this sterility is not absolute. The home of the 
 Sugar Cane is probably in Bengal, that province which 
 for long ages has been called the '"Garden of India" on 
 account of its inexhaustible fertility. Towards the close 
 of the third centur\' the Sugar Cane reached China from 
 India, and two hundred years later had travelled west- 
 ward to Gondisapur. This town lay on the river Karun, 
 whose divided waters flowed part into the Tigris and 
 part into the north of the Persian Gulf. The Nestorians 
 fled thither when the Council of Ephesus in 431 A. D. 
 pronounced their teaching to be heretical. TheA' carried 
 to the East the germs of classical culture and of scientific 
 medicine, and particularly the elements of chemistry. 
 As a consequence of the relations of Gondisapur with 
 India the influence of Indian medical lore was felt there, 
 and a school arose which not onh' adopted the Greek 
 natural sciences and medicine but also improved upon 
 
Till-: sue JAR CANi:. 93 
 
 them considerabh'. Here, then, the art of refining- sugar 
 was apparanth' discovered, and the word "Rand"' intro- 
 duced to describe the refined sugar. 
 
 The Arabs brought the Sugar Cane to Spain in the 
 eipfhth centur\-, and to Sicih' in the ninth. Confectioners 
 existed in N'enice as earh' as 1130, The tliree most 
 important Sugar-producing countries in the Middle -:Vges 
 were S\ria, EgApt and C\prus« But their importance 
 vanished in 14^)8 when \^asco de Gama discovered the 
 direct route to India round the Cape of Good Hope, and 
 the trade in Indian sugar consequenth' fell to the Portugese. 
 This completeh' broke the political and commercial supre- 
 macy of \^enice and her power vanished for ever. The 
 Atlantic Ocean instead of the Mediterranean Sea, now 
 became the route for the commerce of the world. In 1580 
 the production of sugar began to decline in wSicih' as she 
 could no longer hold her own against the competition from 
 over the sea. For about this time American sugar, parti- 
 cularh' the BraziUan, was coming into use all over the 
 world and had reached Palermo. The consumption of 
 sugar increased enormoush' in Europe, and, according to 
 Lippmann, in the ^'ear 1600 even German\' had several 
 sugar refineries. But after the Thirt\' Years" War onh' 
 those in Hamburg seem to have remained. Under Frederic 
 the Great numerous sugar refineries were established in 
 Prussia and were fostered bv protective duties. 
 
 In 1747 the Chemist Markgraf succeeded in extrac- 
 ting sugar from beetroots. But the manufacture of this 
 product did not extend, chiefh' because the supph- of 
 saccharine beets was limited. Achard was the first to 
 
 4* 
 
94 CACTI. 
 
 remedy this want on his property near Berhn in 1786. 
 And it was he who, under the patronage of Frederic 
 William the Third, started the first real beet-sugar manu- 
 factur^- at Cunern in Silesia in 1801. Other manufacturies 
 then followed in Prussia and France, where Delessert 
 was chiefly instrumental in perfecting the process of 
 manufacture. But on the removal of the Continental 
 restrictions most of these beet-sugar factories both in 
 Germany and France failed again, and the new impulse 
 and eventual prosperit}^ of the industry date from 
 about 1820. 
 
 The Palazzo Orengo is surrounded hv fantastic forms 
 of vegetation; pillar-like Opuntias, candelabrum-like 
 Euphorbias resembling Cacti, Yuccas and Fourcroyas, 
 Aloes and Agaves. These rigid plants raise their stems 
 defiantly above the rest, or, when growing close to the 
 ground, force their neighbours aside with their huge ro- 
 settes of leaves. Ag'ave Salmiaua has leaves which 
 attain a length of over two yards. Numerous other 
 Agaves send up from the middle of their rosettes 
 flowering stems resembling a gigantic Asparagus. The 
 Fourcroyas produce in the course of a few weeks an 
 incredible number of greenish -white flowers on their 
 scapes which are a yard high. On a wall east of the 
 house grows a small Opuntia (O. tiaiicata) armed with 
 long, white spines. These are enveloped in a delicate 
 sheath to which they owe their colour. They protect the 
 plant effectively from the attacks of animals. And this 
 protection is very necessary in the parched districts ot 
 Mexico which these plants inhabit, and where animals 
 
SUCCULENT PLANTS. 
 
 'J5 
 
 are often at a loss for vegetable food. Plants wliose 
 leaves have turned into thorns are very common in these 
 regions. The\' have green stems which perform the 
 function of the leaves, and these are often swollen to 
 act as a reser\oir. For water must be stored as a pro- 
 vision against drought. Horses, when pressed b\- hunger 
 and thirst, strike off the thorns of these plants with 
 their hoofs. They are then able to get at the juicy sub- 
 stance without injury to themselves; but cattle are often 
 badh' hurt in the attempt. Mortola Gardens are remark- 
 abl\- rich in these succulent plants. Of the known spe- 
 cies of Aloes about half (sevent\) are cultivated here : 
 
 o sixt\' different Agaves. Most 
 
 ese blossom in spring, while 
 
 actus and Opuntia do not open 
 
 their silk\- flowers till June. 
 
 We could wish that man^■ of 
 
 the plants which adorn the 
 
 rden in the summer with their 
 
 ga\' colours might blossom at 
 
 an earlier season. For the 
 
 ^ magnificent Er\'thrinas, He- 
 
 dichiums, Musas, Strelitzias 
 
 and Stcrculia cwen'fo/ia, the 
 
 e" of Australia, all llower here 
 
 there is no one to admire their 
 
 eaut\'. It would indeed be worth while to 
 
 pa\- a ^■isit to La IVIortola at this season? 
 
 A ver\- curious tree, which attracts the 
 
 Cisius ■ sahii/oiriis. attention of most visitors to the 
 
96 LA MORTOLA. 
 
 garden, grows close to the house. It bears brownish- 
 yellow flowers which rise from the rosettes of leaves like 
 great bottle-brushes. This tree, Banksia marcesseris, is 
 one of the Proteaceae and a native of Australia, It would 
 be hard to find anywhere in Europe another specimen 
 so well developed. Close to this tree hangs an ancient 
 Japanese bell which was once tolled in honour of Kwangai, 
 the Buddhist Goddess of Mercv. 
 
 What a wonderful view of the coast does the Palazzo 
 Orengo command! The spot seems almost too fair to 
 sojourn in. For what more would be left ^to desire ? 
 What greater charm could one look forward to ? The 
 views which delight the spectator are framed in luxuriant 
 green and the gay colours of many flowers. The eve 
 ranges over the rugged shore and dreamily follows the 
 deep ravine in which the garden seems to stretch awa}' 
 towards the mountains. A stately Palm lends enchantment 
 to the scene. To the east is a dark screen of foliage, 
 but the flower^' Pergola soon leads one to the open 
 ridge. The day is declining and Old Bordighera begins 
 to glow in the rosy evening light. W'hat a prospect lies 
 before us ! I knew a frail maiden — "a tender blossom 
 nipped before it blew" — who sought a refuge from death 
 at Mentone. To the last this golden dream was present 
 to her fevered sleep. It seemed a prophetic vision of a 
 fairer world. In her northern home the dying girl stretched 
 her arms out longingly towards this imaged scene and a 
 happy smile lit up her pale features. 
 
 This Pergola, through which we stroll, is grown over 
 with an almost endless variety of creepers : This coUec- 
 
LA MOR'l'OLA. 97 
 
 tion must surely be unique ! A thousand flowers perfume 
 the evening air. The Banksia Rose is here in perfect 
 loveliness. Everywhere its daint\- clusters of semi-double 
 yellow or white flowers gleam among their unarmed 
 foliage. The Riviera ma^' be proud of this beautiful rose 
 which will not grow in the open at home. Xor does it 
 succeed well in greenhouses. The same may be said of 
 the Bougainvillea, that magniticent tropical liana which 
 is so much at home on this part of the Riviera. 
 
 Meanwhile the sun has set and faint shades flit over 
 the coast. Old Bordisfhera looks colourless and lifeless; 
 it is set in a frame of white roses. Foliage and bright 
 flowers grow indistinct in the twilight. Only the Cypresses 
 stand out from the dark mass against the luminous evening 
 sky — those ancient trees bordering with serried rank 
 the path which leads from the upper part of the garden 
 down towards the sea. Has this dark tree, which rises 
 so straight and sternh' towards the sky, really a gloomy 
 appearance ; or does it arouse sad sentiments in us because 
 it has ever been a s\'mbol of mourning and is so often 
 seen among the tombs? These sombre trees maA' perhaps 
 be appropriate to the landscape here, if it is true that 
 "La Mortola" is so called from an ancient cemeter\'. The 
 C\presses alone preserve the memorA' of these resting 
 places, now made bright bA' flower-beds and luxuriant 
 vegetation. 
 
 CHAPTER Vn. 
 
 Above La Mortola Gardens is the Strada Nazionale 
 leading to Mentone. It rises, making a sharp bend in 
 
98 STRA DA NAZIONALE NEAR MORTOLA. 
 
 the ravine, to the Croce della Mortola, where it begins 
 to fall gradually. Most beautiful is this road which follows 
 the slope of the mountain in its wide curve. In spite of 
 the approaching dusk I gathered a bunch of jMoricandia 
 arvejisis (Fig. p. 295) from the road-side. This is a noted 
 habitat for this pretty Crucifer with its violet coloured 
 flowers. It grows abundanth' between Alentone and Venti- 
 miglia, also along the Corniche, but disappears suddenly 
 and occurs again, as a rarity only, in a few other local- 
 ities of southern France. Then I also recognised b^' its 
 dark inflorescence the Red \"alerian (Centranthiis Ruber, 
 Fig. p. 71) which we like to grow in our gardens. Aly 
 attention was arrested b^- Coriaria mxrtifolia (Fig. p. 125) 
 which covers the slope near the Croce della Mortola in 
 great profusion. The plant was in full bloom. The small 
 flowers cannot be considered beautiful: they are borne in 
 bunches, and are all green excepting the red styles. ^ et 
 the structure of the whole flower is so peculiar that it was 
 found necessary to constitute a family, Coriariaceae, for 
 this one genus. This plant contains so much tannin that 
 it is used for tanning and for making a black d^'e•, it is 
 poisonous and therefore avoided by animals. It affects 
 human beings as alcohol does, so that the peasants of the 
 Riviera call it by transference, "embriaghi" — which 
 means '"intoxicated". 
 
 Below the village of Grimaldi the road passes through 
 an Olive grove, and now it is quite dark in the shadow 
 of the trees. An old tower on the hill can still be 
 distinguished, and near it a modern castle in English- 
 Gothic style. Formerly this belonged to Dr. Bennet, 
 
PLANTS ClIARACrEKlSTIC OF ITAIA'. W 
 
 whose name was well known on the Kiviera. Alter his 
 death others built this Gothic house in the garden which 
 he created. We now reach the Italian "Dogana''. Night 
 is drawing on and in Mentone lights are beginning to 
 appear in the houses and the streets. The strand is soon 
 picked out with ]-)oints of light, fringing the sea like a 
 necklace of fier\- pearls. The lines of the "'Mignonlied" 
 passed through nn- mind, and the rlnthmic washing of 
 the waves seemed to recall the music of Beethoven's beau- 
 tiful accompaniment. It is significant that those plants, 
 which in this song of Goethe's conjure up in our minds 
 such vivid pictures of Itah'. are not indigenous in that 
 land, which has been cultivated for over two thousand 
 years. The^- came from the East, like all the great ideas 
 on which our culture is founded, and were developed and 
 improved on this classic soil. Itah' received the Lemon 
 and Oranpfe from the Semites, who in their turn had obtained 
 them from India. The Olive, the Fig, the \'ine and the 
 Palm were grown bv the Semites long before their culti- 
 vation penetrated to the West. The Laurel and Myrtle 
 indeed are indigenous in Itah', but their use for cerem.on- 
 ial purposes came across the Mediterranean from the East. 
 The home of the Cvpress is not in Itah' but in the (jreck 
 archipelago, northern Persia, Cilicia and Lebanon. And 
 it has even been questioned, though in tliis case without 
 reason, whether the "L'mbrella Pine", which almost seems 
 to have taken the cloud-cap of \'esuvius as its model, 
 is an Italian plant. As though the great impulse given 
 to horticulture bv the discoverv of America were also 
 destined to leave its imprint upon Italian soil, the Agave 
 
100 INTRODUCTION OF AGAVE AND OPUNTIA. 
 
 and Opuntias have been established here. Thus the spinv, 
 glaucous Agaves and the prickh-, vivid-green Opuntias, 
 which are so well adapted to the rock^• coast of Italy 
 that the^• seem to have been here from time immemorial, 
 were realh' not introduced from America until the sixteenth 
 centur^^ It would be difficult to picture Capri without 
 the "Fichi d'India" whose flattened branches grow over 
 all the walls in strange, contorted shapes — and vet they 
 are comparativeh- recent, introductioas. The Agaves and 
 Opuntias in the foreground of Preller's illustrations to 
 the Odyssey are therefore an anachronism. This however 
 does not detract from the beauty of these pictures, though 
 one cannot escape a certain feeling of unfamiliarit^■ when 
 looking at them. One's sense of historic accuracy is 
 violated ; nevertheless these masterh' works of art appeal 
 strongh' to one's artistic instinct and imagination. 
 
 What was the Riviera like before the Olive was 
 cultivated, when there were no Palms or C^'presses and 
 no fragrant Agrumi perfumed the air? Evergreen 
 bushes clothed the slopes and thick pine woods crowned 
 the heights. The whole aspect of the vegetation must 
 have been totalh' different. For while it was characterised 
 by greater uniformity and the grouping of masses, the 
 landscape, now considered so typically Italian, owes its 
 character to the great variet}- of conspicuous plants and 
 their effective distribution. 
 
 In the time of Alexander the Great — in the fourth 
 century B. C. — the Greeks considered Italy to be quite 
 a primitive land compared with their own countr^' and 
 the Levant. But Marcus Terentius \^arro likened it in 
 
GARAXAN. UJl 
 
 tlie first centur\ B. C to a vast garden. Plin\- complains 
 a hundred years later of the luxur}-, the effects of which 
 were felt even in horticulture, ^>g•etables had attained 
 such dimensions as to be tjuite be\ond the reach of the 
 poor. I le i|U()tes as an instance the Asparagus, three 
 of which weighed a Roman pound (ca. M){) grammes). 
 Life in this land, which had become transformed into a 
 luxuriant garden and in which all sorts of Eastern plants 
 flourished, could not but have a demoralising effect upon 
 the people. And indeed the shadows gradualh' deepened 
 on this too luxurious civilisation which alread\' bore within 
 it the germs of destruction. 
 
 As I approached Mentone the IVIistral began to 
 blow and raised great clouds of dust from the 
 road. In Garavan, under the shelter of the old 
 town, it was, however, quite calm, so that it was 
 possible to sit out in the pleasant gardens of the 
 Hotel D'ltalie till late into the evening. Garavan is 
 effectivelv sheltered from the west wind hv the ridge 
 on which Old Mentone lies and b\' its close -built 
 houses; and for this reason it is frequented b}' invalids. 
 For some time past Garavan . 
 
 has had a station of its 
 own wliich facilitates 
 traffic almost too nuich, 
 especialh' for those 
 winter visitors who risk 
 their alread\' impaired health 
 b\- the injurious excitement 
 
 of gambling at Alonte Carlo. Cladopkora laetcrirens 
 
102 ECONOMIC PLANTS. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Civilised man owes nearh' all the most important 
 stimulants and luxuries derived from the \"egetable World 
 to primitive peoples. Since instinct has been blunted in 
 him by civilisation he can no longer understand the 
 motives which guided the primitive races in their choice 
 of food. He is astonished to learn from chemistrA' that 
 the Tea of the Chinese, tlie Mate of the Brazilians, the 
 Coffee and Khat of the Arabs, the Cocoa of the Astecs 
 and the Kola-nut of the Negroes all contain the same 
 stimulating principle. We are able to see in La Mortola 
 Gardens how outwardh' different are all these plants 
 which A'et contain practicalh' the same properties. But 
 it would be hard to discover, even hv the most careful 
 observation, an^' external character common to them 
 all. Primitive men were, however, not guided by any 
 outward resemblance, but learnt rather as do the \\ild 
 animals who roam in search of their food through woods 
 and over plains. ThcA' were equally unconscious of the 
 reason for their selection. 
 
 Most of our economic plants, having been adopted 
 from primitive man so long ago, possess an interesting 
 history. 
 
 The use of tea as a beverage is so old in China 
 that a book, "Rh\'a", written in the twelfth century, 
 mentions it as alread^' long known. 
 
 Tea drinking first began to spread in Europe in 
 1630, under the influence of the Dutch East India Com- 
 pany-, and also in consequence of the recommendations of 
 a few Dutch doctors. Tea was said to increase the 
 
INTRODUCTION OF TEA IX) ELKOPi:. 1(k3 
 
 vital cncrg\-, to strengthen the memorA", stimulate the 
 faculties and to thoroughh- purih' the blood. Those 
 sickening with fever were advised to drink off from fort\' 
 to fiftv cups of tea one after another. In the interesting 
 work of Le Grand d"Auss^ . which lirst appeared in \7^2, 
 and which relates the histor\- of the private life of the 
 French ("Ilistoire de la \'ie Privee des Francais") we 
 read that tea was known in Paris in 1636 and soon 
 became \ery popular because-- the Chancellor Seguier 
 gave it his patronage. It seems that a few people in 
 Paris were so misguided as to smoke tea in the same 
 wa^' as tobacco, and Dr. Blign\- boasts that he even 
 made a preserve from it. a "destilliertes Wasser", and 
 two kinds of s^•rup. In 1700 tea drinking was already 
 universal in England and tea was taxed. Germanv owes 
 the introduction of tea to the Dutch doctors of the 
 Great Elector. According to documents published hv 
 Fliickiger, a handful of tea bought at the Apothecaries 
 of the town of Xordhausen in 1662, cost fifteen Gulden, 
 but in 1689 the same quantitv cost onlv four Groschen 
 in Leipzig. As earh' as the latter half of the seventeenth 
 centur\- tea had become a common and favourite beverage 
 in Russia. It reached Russia, however, not from Western 
 Europe, but direct through the Asiatic Embassies, and was 
 consciiuenth- called "'"rschai". This name corresponds to 
 that hv which it was known among the Arabs in the eighth 
 centur\-. But in Poland, which was in direct communication 
 with the West, it was called "Herbata", from ''herba theae". 
 The most important constituent of the tea leaf is 
 Caffein. The same principle is contained in the coffee 
 
104 INTRODUCTION OF COFFEE TO EUROPE. 
 
 bean, and is very similar to the Theobromin of Cocoa. 
 The Paraguay Tea, or "Mate" and the Kola-nuts also 
 contain Caffein. 
 
 The Coffee plant was first cultivated on a large 
 scale b\' the Arabs, ^vhile Europe, Avith the exception 
 of Turke^', knew nothing of the existence of this 
 beverage until the middle of the seventeenth centur\'. 
 Coffee was first brought to Constantinople from Eg\-pt 
 by Selim I in 1517, and twent^' A'ears later there 
 were already several Coffee-houses in that cit^'. It 
 reached Western Europe through the \"enetians. Prosper 
 Alpinus, who lived in Egypt as doctor to the Venetian 
 Consul and published his work on Eg\'ptian plants bet- 
 ween the \ears 1591 — 93, gave the first, although very 
 imperfect, description of the Coffee tree. From Venice, 
 where the first Coftee-house was opened in 1645, the 
 custom of coffee drinking spread rapidly over the whole 
 of Italy, Le Grand d'Auss^' informs us that Marseilles 
 was the first town in France in which Coffee-houses 
 were built. In the time of Louis XIV the use of coffee 
 as a beverage came into vogue in Paris, and this was 
 chiefly due to the influence of Soliman Aga, the Envoy 
 of Mohammed III. Le Grand d'Aussv tells us that Soli- 
 man ingratiated himself so with the Parisian ladies that 
 it became the fashion to call on him. He had coffee 
 served to the ladies in oriental fashion; slaves handed 
 it to them in shining porcelain cups on gold - fringed 
 serviettes. The foreign furniture of the apartments, the 
 sitting on the floor, the conversation which was carried 
 on by means of an interpreter, — all this Le Grand 
 
FIRST CAFE IN PARIS. 1U5 
 
 d'Auss\- thinks was calculated to turn the heads of the 
 I>ench ladies. Soliman's Coffee was talked about on 
 all sides: everyone wished to taste it. At that time it 
 was still ver\- difficult to obtain Coffee beans, one pound 
 costing about fort\' dollars. In the \ear 1()72 an Armenian 
 called Pascal opened on the (^uaie de I'Ecole, the first 
 "Cafe" in Paris — so called from the beverage sold 
 there. It was a "Boutique'' in oriental style, and did 
 not flourish because it was not sufficienth' grand for the 
 line folk who alone drank Coffee at that time. This 
 was recognised hv the Florentine Procope, who was a 
 favourite in Paris because he had introduced ice-cream. 
 He started a Cafe opposite the old Comedie Francaise, 
 where he provided, besides Coffee, Tea, Cocoa, Ices 
 and various liqueurs. The establishment was, moreover, 
 tastefulh- decorated and before long proved a great 
 success. There were soon numerous imitators, and in 
 1676 Paris possessed a vast number of Coffee-houses, 
 whose influence proved ver^' beneficial as it reduced 
 drunkenness. That which Louis XIV^, "ce Roi si decent", 
 as Le Grand d'Aussy expresses it, was unable to bring 
 about by severe punishment, the Florentine Procope 
 accomplished. But Coffee was considered to be not 
 entirely uninjurious, and the Marquise de Sevigne con- 
 sequently advises her daughter, 'in a letter dated lOSO. 
 to add a little milk to it, "pour en temperer le danger"". 
 In England Coffee is first mentioned bv Baco of Verulam 
 as earlv as 1624. The first Coffee-house in London was 
 started in 1652 b\- an Armenian named Pasqua, the ser- 
 vant of a Turkish doctor. Berlin followed much later. 
 
106 SUBSTITUTES FOR COFFEE. 
 
 for according to V^olz the first Coffee-house there 
 was not opened till the rear 1721. Many German 
 towns, however, had the lead of Berlin in this respect. 
 Coffee-houses existed in Hamburg in 1679, in Niirnberg 
 and Regensburg in 1()86 and in Cologne in 1687- In 
 \^ienna a certain Kolschitzky was granted permission 
 to open a Coffee-house in 1683. This was as a reward 
 for the bravery by which he had distinguished himself 
 in the same year when the town was liberated from 
 the Turks. By the middle of the eighteenth century 
 Coffee drinking was universal in Germany, and Coffee 
 was an important article of commerce in Hamburg 
 and Bremen. Frederic the Great sought in vain to 
 limit its consumption. In his endeavour to exclude it 
 from Prussia and "keep the money in the country" 
 he imposed heavy taxes on colonial products which 
 were already dear enough. He even forbade their 
 import altogether or sought to at least monopolise them. 
 Markgraf and other chemists were commissioned to 
 procure substitutes, and this led to the use of Acorns, 
 Barley, Rye and even Turnips and Horse - Chestnuts 
 for Coffee. Chickor}- Coffee was not \'et known of 
 at that time; but, as I understand from what Lippmann 
 writes, first came into use in 1790. These substitutes 
 for Coffee did not find much favour with the public: 
 so in 1789 a Coffee monopoly was established. The 
 ordinary consumer was compelled to buy Coffee ready 
 roasted from the State at twenty-four "lot" for a "thaler", 
 while "roasting licenses" were given to the nobility, the 
 clerg}' and officials. 
 
THE COCOA TREE. 
 
 107 
 
 Tlic histor\' of Cocoa is ver\- similar to that of 
 
 Tea and Coffee. The Cocoa tree is more difticult to 
 
 cuhivate tlum mam' other tropical plants, for besides a 
 
 ver\' even and comparati\'el\' high temperature, it reciuires 
 
 an atmosphere of great and uniform moisture. Its home 
 
 is thought to be in the countries round the Gulf of 
 
 Mexico, but it is now grown all o\cr the tropics 
 
 wherever the above conditions exist. The Cocoa plant 
 
 /* .. belongs to the Sterculiaceae, a fam- 
 
 , ; ih' which is related to the Malva- 
 
 ' ceae. Most of the Cocoa of trade is 
 
 obtained from T/icobroiiia Cakao. It is 
 
 a tree with dark foliage, gnarled trunk 
 
 crown, generalh" attaining 
 
 a height of from eight to 
 
 ten ^'ards. The flowers 
 
 : are produced in a 
 
 curious wa\' — t?i'0- 
 
 wing out principalh- from 
 
 the old wood. The trunk 
 
 and thick branches are thus 
 
 liung with fruit. The colour 
 
 of the flowers varies between 
 
 white and red, and that of the 
 
 fruits between mellow and dark red. 
 
 Although the flowers are small the 
 
 cucumber - like fruits can attain a length of 
 
 twentv-live centimetres. 'V\\q tree flowers and 
 
 fruits almost uninterruptedh', but generalh' 
 
 yields onh- two principal crops in the vear. 
 
108 COCOA IN MEXICO. 
 
 The seeds are embedded in the bitter pulp and arranged 
 in the ripe fruit in five longitudinal rows. The bitter 
 flavour of the seeds is mitigated b^' a fermenting process, 
 to which thev are submitted when thev have been freed 
 from the pulp. 
 
 Cocoa was known to the Astecs in Mexico and 
 even to the Toltecs whom thev subdued. When the 
 Spaniards conquered Mexico in 1519 they found the 
 cultivation of the Cocoa alread}' well established. Cocoa 
 "nibs" were used in Mexico, and even in the whole of 
 Central America, as coins, in the same way as Pepper 
 was once used in Europe. It was said that when the 
 Spaniards conquered Mexico the}' found in the state 
 coffers no fewer than two-and-a-half million pounds of 
 these "nibs". In Mexico the roasted Cocoa "nibs" w-ere 
 shelled and powdered and then stirred in cold water to 
 make a brew, and mixed with maize meal. Those w^ho 
 could afford it added spices, vanilla, scented flowers and 
 honey. This de coction, "bouillie assez degoutante" savs 
 Le Grand d'Aussy, was called "Chokoladl". It is still 
 uncertain whether this word is derived from the Mexican 
 name of the plant "Kakao", or "Kakagnate", or from 
 "Choko" (foam) and "Atl" (water). The Spaniards, who 
 had first tasted Cocoa at the court of Montezuma, soon 
 introduced it to Europe, and todav Spain still consumes 
 the greatest quantity- of Cocoa. When Carletti returned 
 to Florence in lt)06 from his travels in distant countries, 
 during which he visited the West Indies, he brought 
 Cocoa with him. The hot beverage, which was made 
 in Florence from Cocoa-powder, was soon widely used 
 
INTkODlC riON OF COCOA TO 1:LKoPK. 1(I'> 
 
 in the whole of Ttalw Cocoa was brought to France 
 in 1()15 b\ Anna of Austria, wife of Louis XIII, but it 
 did not find much favour then. It became more wideh 
 used in 1()()1 under the inlliience ot Maria Theresia of 
 Spain, wife of Louis XI\', who, however, used to hide 
 herself (as the Duchess of Montpensier informs us) when 
 drinking her Cocoa. At that time Cocoa drinking must 
 still have been regarded with disfavour, if not with 
 actual disapproval. In 16/1 Madame de Sevigne was 
 able to write to her daughter : 'A'ous ne vous portez pas 
 bien. le chocolat vous remettra". Cocoa must have lost 
 its repute as a medicine, howe^■er. for in a later letter 
 it is complained of as '"source de vapeurs et de 
 palpitations". On the other hand a Parisian doctor. 
 Bachot, read a thesis before the facultv in 1684 in which 
 he advocated well prepared Cocoa as one of the most 
 valuable drinks, and said that it might well have served 
 as Nectar and Ambrosia to refresh the Gods. Linnaeus 
 was of the same opinion when he wrote a treatise on 
 Cocoa in 1769 in the "Amoenitates academicae", and 
 gave the Cocoa tree the botanical name of "Theobroma"', 
 that is to sav "food of the Gods". In 1625 Cocoa 
 began to be used in England, and about the same time 
 it became known in I lolland. Bontekoe. ph\sician in 
 ordinar\- to the Great Elector, brought Cocoa to Berlin. 
 Frederic the Great forbade the introduction of Cocoa 
 and commissioned the same chemist Markgraf, who had 
 previouslv experimented on Coffee, to make a substitute 
 for Cocoa. Linden flowers were chosen for this purpose, 
 but with verv little result. 
 
110 COCA. 
 
 When the Spaniards came to Peru in the sixteenth 
 century thev found ^•et another stimulant in use there, 
 which the instinct of the natives had discovered — 
 namely Cocain. This principle belongs, as do Caffein 
 and Theobromin, to the vegetable alkaloids. The Incas 
 used to chew Coca leaves in the same way as the 
 Hindoos masticate the Betel nuts, and flavoured these 
 leaves with ashes of the Quinoa plant (Chcnopodium 
 Qutnoa), or with slaked lime, as is done with Betel nuts 
 in India. In moderation Coca leaves stimulate the 
 nervous system; but when used to excess they become 
 injurious. Deterioration of the ph\sical and mental 
 powers sets in and the "Cocquero" ma^• be likened to 
 our inebriate. The Spaniards at first saw onh' the evil 
 effects of Coca chewing and sought to counteract it b\' 
 legislation and ecclesiastical prohibition. For this reason 
 the Coca leaves were not introduced into Europe as 
 were other similar stimulants. Public attention was first 
 directed to this alkaloid when Koller of \^ienna discovered 
 in 1884 that a solution of Cocain rendered the cornea 
 and the conjunctiva of the eye insensible to touch for 
 some time without injurious effects. Its use in operations 
 on the e\e is now universal ; and when its power of 
 rendering easih' accessible and sensitive nerves of the 
 human body insensible were recognised, it became 
 important in other branches of medicine. 
 
 Coca leaves are obtained from a bush which is \ev\ 
 like our sloe onh' considerably larger. The^' are a vivid 
 green, very thin, elliptical and terminate in a very fine 
 point. The yellowish-white flowers are not striking 
 
Tin: CL()\'i:. in 
 
 because thev are small. But the red berries, which are 
 like those of our Cornel tree, are conspicuous among the 
 foliage. The botanical name of the plant is Erythroxylon 
 Coca: it is a distinct hunil\- limited to this one genus, 
 which howc\er includes man\- species. The leaves are 
 slio-hth' aromatic and have a pleasantlv bitter flavour. 
 The pure alkaloid is a colourless cr^•stal which dissolves 
 onh a little in water, easih* in alcohol and best in ether. 
 The histor\- of the Clove plant is particularly inte- 
 resting, for it has plaved quite an important part in the 
 histor\- of the cultivation of spices. Eugenia Caryo- 
 phyllata. the Clove plant, belongs to the M\rtaceae, as 
 do also the Mvrtle, Eucalyptus, Guava and Rose-apple 
 which we see in La Mortola Gardens. It is a shapely, 
 evergreen tree which can grow to a height of thirt}' feet. 
 The leaves are leatherv and shinv, with translucent 
 fipots. The llowers are borne in terminal corymbs. 
 The four-angled tlower stem spreads out at its apex into 
 four thick calvx limbs which bear the petals and stamens 
 at their base. The corolla falls off when the llower 
 opens: but the buds, or "cloves", are gathered shortly 
 before this happens. These are either picked b}' hand 
 or knocked off with Bamboo rods. Cloves, then, are 
 the unopened blossoms of a Myrtaceous plant, and are 
 in no way connected with the species of Dianthus ot 
 our gardens which we call Clove Pinks, although their 
 perfume is alike. When dr\- the cloves change from a 
 dark red to the familiar brown. Cloves were known to 
 the Chinese before our era. In the fourth century B. C. they 
 were brought to Europe. For a long time it was 
 
112 THE NUTMEG. 
 
 thought that the native country of the Clove plant and 
 the Nutmeg was either Java or Cevlon : but these is- 
 lands were really onlv stations on the track of the clove- 
 trade. Nicolo de Conti discovered this when he visited 
 Java from India in the first half of the fifteenth century. 
 There he was told that the home of this spice was- 
 fifteen days further to the east. The discovery of the 
 Moluccas, which according to O. Wartburg took place 
 in 1511 and is to be attributed to Antonio d'Abreo and 
 Francisco Serrano, enlightened Europe on the origin of 
 the clove. When the Moluccas fell into the hands of 
 the Portugese the spice trade passed to them, and a 
 hundred ^ears later to the Dutch East India Company. 
 This company sought by every possible means to monop- 
 olise the production of cloves and nutmegs, and even 
 confined their cultivation to a few islands in order to 
 control it more effectually : on the other islands these 
 spice - trees were extirpated. In order to fetch high 
 prices the company put only a limited quantity onto 
 the market; and when, in consequence of good crops, 
 the store grew too large in 1/60 part of it was burnt 
 by the admiralty at Amsterdam. In spite of the strict 
 watch kept by the Dutch, the French Governors of the 
 Mauritius and the Bourbons succeeded in the latter half 
 of the eighteenth century in obtaining possession of 
 Clove and Nutmeg trees and planted them on their 
 islands. The English, during their occupation of the 
 Moluccas from 1795 to 1802, spread the spice plants 
 beyond these islands. And now they are grown over 
 a great part of the tropics. The Clove plant has almost 
 
CINNAMON. 
 
 disappeared from the Moluccas; and oiil\' the Xutnieg 
 is still cultivated there to aiiA" extent. 
 
 The Nutmeg tree, so often mentioned together with 
 the Clove tree, belongs to the genus Myristica, and is 
 classed near to the Laurels. ^Fhe most important of the 
 Nutmegs is Myris/ica fra^Taiis. This tree resembles the 
 Laurel. Its flowers are white or Aellowish and are remark- 
 ably like those of our Hawthorn. ThcA' are not ver^• 
 striking on account of their small size; but the bright 
 yellow apricot -like fruits, which are borne at the same 
 time as the tlowers, are very conspicuous. When ripe 
 these fruits burst open and expose the red aril within. 
 This surrounds the dark brown seeds, known as nutmegs, 
 in the form of a laminated covering, and is known h\ 
 the name of "Mace". 
 
 Cinnamon was also once a monopoh' of the Portu- 
 gese. From them it fell into tlie hands of the Dutch 
 East Lidia Compan^^ and linally passed to the English 
 East India Company when the English obtained pos- 
 session of Ceylon in 17*^6. ■ — As cinnamon, cloves and 
 nutmeg figured in the ^^^^^^ histor\' of the Nether- 
 lands, so did East ^^^^^^^^^^^. Indian Pepper 
 
 Venice. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^KL Thus the 
 
 sake j^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ trade pepper 
 
 behoved ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^H Venice to hold 
 
 the Red Sea ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^V and Egypt. 
 Quantities of ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ pepper were sold 
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^r the Fondaco 
 
 de'Tedeschi in ^^BB^^^^ \'enice. In the Middle 
 Ages, as Fliickiger coji,,,,, j>'„rs<,. states, the consump- 
 
114 GINGER. 
 
 tion of pepper was enormous. This condiment at last 
 reached such importance that it became an ahnost universal 
 unit of currency. It served severally for payment of taxes, 
 rents, dues and ransom, and as a costly gift, and was parti- 
 cularly mentioned in wills. In the thirteenth and four- 
 teenth centuries pepper was decidedly the first among 
 spices : it was so expensive that the poorer classes could 
 not afford to use it regularly, and "cher comme poivre" 
 became proverbial. This craving for condiments arose, 
 as Le Grand d'Aussy tells us, from the many indigestible 
 articles of food which were in use at that time. Many 
 fastidious gourmands carried spices with them in order 
 to flavour the food at table according to their own 
 palate. Regnard calls these Epicureans "Docteurs en 
 Soupers". 
 
 Ginger is mentioned in Wilhelm Heyd's "Geschichte 
 des Levantehandels im Mittelalter", as being one of the 
 most widely used of the spices of those times • — almost 
 as much in request as pepper. This plant, whose native 
 country is India, may also be seen at La Mortola. The 
 green shoots, which are a yard high, spring from the 
 aromatic "root-stock", which is hidden in the soil. The 
 stems resemble those of the Canna which we grow in 
 our gardens, and, like them, bear leaves arranged in 
 two rows; the leaves, however, are smaller. The yellow 
 and violet flowers are borne in the axils of bracts which 
 grow very close together at the apex of the shoots. At 
 La Mortola the Ginger does not blossom, and even in 
 Asia flower-bearing shoots are rarely developed. Pieces 
 of the "root-stock", either peeled or not, form the ginger 
 
KOLI'l-: 1)1-: LA CORMCIIi:. 115 
 
 of coinnuTco. riic i^iii^'cr wliich comes from China and 
 is boiled in sugar, is made ol tender and carefulU- peel- 
 ed ••root-slock". Preser\'ed (yiniror \\-as imjiorted lo 
 hal\- in earthenware jars as carh- as the lirst centur\' 
 of our era: but tlie lirst European to see the plant was 
 Marco Polo wlien on his travels in China and India. This 
 justly famous traveller won great distinction b^■ his dis- 
 cover\' of China. On this accoiuit the owner of La 
 Mortola, who has himself spent man\- \ears in the 
 "Middle Kingdom", has placed a portrait of ]Marco 
 Polo in the porch of his villa. It is a glass mosaic on 
 a gold background b\' v^alviati of Venice. As there is 
 no authentic likeness of this great traveller, the artist 
 was left to draw upon his imagination. 
 
 chapte:r IX. 
 
 Tlie view of the snow-capped Maritime Alps from 
 the lamous "Route de la Corniche". which joins Mentone 
 and Nice, is most impressive. In spring, however, the 
 high mountains are fretjuenth- veiled in cloud. A clear 
 dav should tlierefore be chosen for this excursion. Then 
 the scene is of unrivalled beaut\-. The road begins to 
 rise near Roccabruna and follows the mountain-side in 
 innumerable windings. Occasionalh it bends inward 
 abrupth- as if about to enter the cliff: then suddenh it 
 reverses its direction as though to dive into the sea. 
 There is a continual succession of changing scenes. 
 Heneath are green \alle\s and the ever-var\ing outline 
 oi the coast : abo\e the summits of the range. Wherever 
 these di\ide the snow\ heights of the Maritime Alps 
 
 
116 LA TURBIE. 
 
 burst upon us like a vision in the distance. The Corniche 
 reaches its highest point at La Turbie — the old 
 "Trophea'" or "Turris in via"', — about 1650 feet above 
 sea level. The present road, which Napoleon I con- 
 structed in 1S05. followed the old Roman road. Turbie 
 is now also connected with Monte Carlo by a funicular 
 railway. The frontier between Gaul and Italy once ran 
 through Turbie. The tower, known as the Tower of 
 Augustus, still defies the ravages of time. It rises out 
 of might^• ruins and can be seen at a great distance. 
 The tower with its jagged battlements was built in the 
 fourteenth centur\- out of the hewn stones of the huge 
 monument which the Senate and Roman people erected 
 to Octavius when the battle of Actium made him master 
 of the world. Plin^■ has preserved for us the inscription 
 which the monument bore on its four sides. Besides the 
 dedication to Caesar Imperator. there were the names 
 of twentA-four Alpine tribes who had been subjugated 
 hv the Romans. A statue of the Emperor crowned the 
 monument, which according to old descriptions must 
 ha\'e been imposing. Nevertheless later generations did 
 not spare it. The Lombards commenced its destruction: 
 and the Saracens turned it into a fortress. Then for 
 centuries the inhabitants of La Turbie and Monaco treated 
 the ruins as a quarrA- to obtain building material for 
 their churches and houses. In the twelfth centurA' the 
 Genoese fetched marble from here to adorn their build- 
 ings, and what then remained was used for the high 
 altar of the old Cathedral of Nice. From La Turbie 
 Monte Carlo, with all its splendour and miser\-, looks 
 
EZA. - ^ MCE. 117 
 
 like an innocent low I)Ul e\en on this elevated spot 
 we are reminded of the serious asj")ect of life b\- all the 
 tortitications whith I'raiu-e has erected on the mountain 
 tops. I^ven the hiirhest mountain aho\e Monte Carlo, 
 the Mont A<rel. wliose summit (about .-^.SOO feet high) 
 dominates the whole countr\- round, is now crowned 
 with redoubts. 
 
 The most beautiful spot on the Corniche seems to 
 me to be wliere Eza rises on its steep rock midwav in 
 the landscape. NN'hat an immense expenditure of energv' 
 must have been required to build strongholds out of 
 huge hewn blocks poised on these gidd\' heights between 
 lieaven and earth I Surrounded b\- precipices *and secure 
 against all surprises, Nicois and Piedmontese families 
 have ruled this fortress in succession. Miserable dwellings 
 shelter under the strong walls and still stand toda^' 
 crowding round the crumbling ruins. The old splendour 
 has vanished from this spot: the miser^• has remained. But 
 all tliis as seen from a distance is gilded b\' the briglit 
 southern sun. and the proud rocks stand out majestically 
 against the blue background of the sea. 
 
 Nice continues to grow : it is losing its original 
 Italian character and assuming that of an elegant, 
 cosmopolitan cit^■. It revels in modern luxur\-. In the 
 winter ••Redoutes", "Rattles of Flowers", regattas and 
 horse races follow one another in endless succession. The 
 craving for enjoyment has seized upon even the natives. 
 Xice is now as much 'en vogue' as was Baiae of old, 
 and is equalK- given up to pleasure. How strange that 
 this spot should have been chosf^n I It has suffered so 
 
118 CAP D^ANTIBES. 
 
 man^' reverses of fortune in past times. Xice has over 
 and over again been plundered and laid waste bv Goths, 
 Lombards, Saracens and Provencals; France repeatedly 
 conquered and lost it, but now retains it. Plague has 
 decimated the town ; severe frosts have several times 
 destroved its Olive and Orange groves: and African 
 locusts have frequenth' devastated them. All this mav 
 perhaps account for the frivolitv of its population, and 
 mav be the reason wh\' Xice has become a metropolis 
 of festivities. 
 
 I was, however, not bound for X'ice but for the Cap 
 d'Antibes, a spot which had man^' ^'ears before won 
 my heart. An article b^■ Georges Sand in the "'Revue 
 des deux mondes"" of 1868 first made me acquainted 
 with the beauties of this promontorv. Georges Sand 
 visited the garden of the eminent French botanist Thuret, 
 which lies on the ridge of the Cap, and was quite 
 carried awav hv the prospect which she enjoved there. 
 In spite of this the Cap d'Antibes has remained com- 
 parativeh' unfrequented, for it stretches far out into the 
 sea and is therefore too exposed to the winds to be 
 suitable as a resort for invalids suffering from chest 
 complaints. The whole chain of the snowy Alps can be 
 seen from the Cap which is but little sheltered from 
 the cold north current from the mountains. On the other 
 hand the Cap does not suffer much from the mistral, as 
 the Montagues des Maures and the Esterel ward it off. 
 The hard limestone rocks crop up ever\'\vhere on the 
 shore and there are few places on the Riviera di Ponente 
 where one suffers less from dust than here. I consider 
 
MEW FROM Till-: CAP DAM'IBES. 
 
 1I'.> 
 
 4 
 
 the L'ap d'.Vntibes one ot the 
 
 most loveh' spots on tlie Ri\ iera. Its 
 In'auties can be seen to full advantage 
 from the hilh' ridge on which 
 the lighthouse and the modest 
 little chapel of Notre Dame 
 dc Ron Port stand. The 
 outlook from this spot in clear, 
 sunn\' weather is truh' magnificent. 
 The Cap d'Antibes stretches 
 so far out into the open sea 
 that one can survey the whole 
 coast from it as from a ship. It 
 divides the Golfe Jouan from the 
 Bale des Anges and overlooks both 
 ba^'s. To the west the wide view is 
 closed b\' the Esterel range, which rises 
 steeph" from the sea with varied outline. 
 The Esterel reminds one in its contour of the Sieben 
 Gebirge, the pride of the Rliinelanders: and this resem- 
 blance ma\- be explained hv the \olcanic origin of both 
 ranges. Cannes, which is onl\- an hour's walk from the 
 Cap d'Antibes, is concealed b\' the tongue of land 
 called La Croisettc. The island of Ste. Marguerite - 
 one ot the lies de Lerins - lies out to sea be\ond this 
 spit of land. ^^ e can clearh' see the fort in whicli the 
 
 Co/ii'Oha/iis iiHhacoiJcs. 
 
120 VIEW FROM THE CAP D'ANTIBES. 
 
 mysterious ''Homme au masque de fer'\ and later Bazaine, 
 were once imprisoned. One place succeeds another on 
 the coast. Nearest is the Uttle town of Golfe Jouan, in 
 whose well sheltered harbour the French Mediterranean 
 Squadron lies at anchor. Innumerable villas and gardens 
 cover the green hills which slope gently down to the 
 sea. Away to the south-west the Cap d'Antibes stretches 
 another arm into the deep, and on this stand a small 
 fort and the Grand Hotel. Southward the eve loses 
 itself in the wide expanse of water : eastward we can 
 follow the coast-line to beyond Bordighera, where the 
 mountains at last fade into the distant blue. The houses 
 of Nice form a semi-circle round the Baie des Anges and 
 are scattered on the slopes of the neighbouring hills. In 
 the foreground old Antipolis stands out sharply, surrounded 
 by high walls and moats in mediaeval style, and domin- 
 ated by the picturesque Fort Carre which \'auban built 
 for its protection. To the north mountain is piled on 
 mountain culminating in the radiant heights of the snow- 
 clad Alps. Thus does this view unite all the most 
 sublime elements that Nature can offer. How charming 
 is the contrast between the vast level of the sea 
 and the diversified outline of the towering mountain 
 giants: in what delicate gradations does the azure 
 blue of the sky merge into the soft green of the 
 coast : how sharply does the gleaming white of the 
 snow stand out against the dark blue of the heavens! 
 We breathe freely amid these surroundings: we feel 
 elevated by these glorious scenes which are reflected in 
 the soul. 
 
C AV irANTlBES. 121 
 
 Tlie little chapel of Notre Dame de f^on I'ort is 
 adorned with main an ""ex \oto" offering. Kind's and 
 cluiins of ships and small boats carved out of wood bear 
 witness to the g'ratitude of tliose who have been saved 
 from jn-ril at sea. There is a curious stor\- connected 
 with the (Jrand II()tel of the Cap d'Antibes. De N'ille- 
 messant. the once well known editor of the "Figaro", is 
 said to have had tlie Hotel built as a home for authors 
 and artists, who were to work there together stimulated 
 b\- the inspiring surroundings. This tale was, however, 
 oiiU" a ''blague'' originated bv articles in the paper, and 
 further supported b\- an "Expedition*' which the staff 
 of the "'Figaro" made to this neighbourhood. The object 
 of the expedition seems however to have been very different 
 to the one put forward. The idea was to start a new 
 resort on the Riviera to rival the rapidlv increasing town 
 of Cannes. TheA' wished to imitate Lord Brougham, 
 about whom the "'Figaro" of April 25, 1867 relates that 
 he had discovered the town of Cannes — discovered in 
 as much as he found plots of land for sale there at five 
 sous the metre which were soon sold at sixt\' francs. But 
 the "Figaro" abandoned all its fine plans and the projected 
 "\"illa Soleir" was never built. A Russian, however, who 
 was living on the Cap d'Antibes. decided to build the 
 great H()tel du dip. The undertaking pro\ed a failure. 
 One tenant succeeded another until at last the etablish- 
 ment was clo«sed. But now that the number of travellers 
 has so much increased, circumstances seem more favour- 
 able. The Hotel is now under skilled and careful man- 
 agement and will doubtless prosper. Its position is uniquely 
 
122 CAP D^ANTIBES. 
 
 beautiful. The front windows look out over Golfe Jouan 
 and the Esterel range : whilst the back windows command 
 a view of the snowy Alps. The house is surrounded by 
 a large garden which stretches down to the sea. It loses 
 itself in the aromatic Mediterranean underwood, and where 
 this ceases bare, rugged rocks continue the narrow pro- 
 montorv. The sea hurls its waves unceasingly against 
 these rocks, and in heavv storms the surf is driven right 
 over them. The steep slopes of the Cap are weathered 
 into a thousand fantastic shapes, forming shelves, caves, 
 inlets and recesses; so that at any hour of the day a 
 nook can be found sheltered from the sun, and generally 
 from the wind also, where one can sit out with a book. 
 But it is difficult to read much here, for the blue waves 
 dash incessantly against the rocks and disturb one b\- 
 their splashing. At one time the\' ripple genth' and almost 
 inaudibly, at another they roll up and break with a loud 
 noise as though determined to make themselves heard. 
 Now the water washes up close to \-ou and as it dows 
 back the eye involuntarily follows. Thus hour after hour 
 may be passed in dreamy contemplation on the rock\- 
 coast of Antibes, and one day after another slips away 
 unnoticed. The nervous system gains repose and gathers 
 renewed energy for the ever-increasing strain placed upon 
 it in these days. Quite as enjo\-able as sitting by the 
 sea-washed rocks is h'ing among the aromatic bushes with 
 the blue dome of heaven above and a glimpse of the Mediter- 
 ranean on one side. We spread our rug over M\'rtle and 
 Rosemary bushes and recline as on a pillow. It is certainl\- 
 one of the chief charms of this favoured spot that one 
 
MALI'S ON Tin: CAP 1) "AN'iii;i:s. i:,; 
 
 can step direct troni the i^arden iiitd Nature's \iririn 
 wilds; tor tlie ^ax' and aromatic shrubs which clothe 
 tlie coast here \\ ere not pUmted b^■ human hands. riie\' 
 are indi<»'enous and are representative ot a t\pe ol vege- 
 tation, characteristic o[ tlie Mediterranear. region, which 
 is known as "Ahuiuis"" or •*( larigue"'. The .\hu|uis is 
 being gradualh' encroached upon on tliis thickK popu- 
 lated coast, and large tracts of it can now onU" be tound 
 in the ^Montagues des Maiu'es and the Esterel. In Corsica, 
 however, it ma^■ be seen to perfection. 
 
 The Cap d'Antibes was formerh- noted for its natural 
 wealth of plants, all the most important t\pes of the 
 Provencal tlora being gathered together here. Man\' 
 have had to give wa\' to cultivation . but those that 
 remain are well worth\' of closer obser\ation. 
 
 The jMaquis, to \Ahich we have such easy access here, 
 is characterised b\- 'evergreen bushes. There are even 
 a certain number of trees which do not grow beyond the 
 height of bushes in tlie ^hKluis. hi the great majority 
 of these shrubs the leaf-surface has been much diminished 
 and the leaves have even disappeared in some of them. 
 Thus the plants are able to resist long drought. In the 
 spring, when there is the necessary moisture, they nearly 
 all bloom at the same time, and form ga\' gardens where 
 at other times the soil is parched. Aromatic plants predom- 
 inate in the Maquis. Their aroma protects them from 
 the ravages of animals. This protection is essential in 
 such a dr\- climate where it is ver\ difficult for the jilant 
 to replace the parts which have been destro\ed. b'rom 
 each plant \ou brush in passing t|uite a llood of perfume 
 
124 AIAqUIS ON THE CAP D WXTIBES. 
 
 is liberated, and from the pfround as we tread volatile 
 essences are wafted upwards. Rosemary (Fig. p. 3"!), 
 Thyme, Lavender (Fig, p. 257), Cistus (Fig. p.83), Myrtle 
 and Pistachia (Fig. p. 34Q), mingle their sweet odours and 
 perfume the air. The general tone of the Maquis is a 
 brownish-green and onh' the tiowers light up its uniform 
 colouring. The\' are produced in profusion. The delicate 
 blue of the Rosemar^' is seen side b^' side with the vivid 
 yellow of the Broom, and the bright colour of the Cistus 
 near the dark violet of the Lavender. In Corsica the hill 
 sides present the appearance of one huge bouquet, and 
 the traveller is intoxicated by the perfume exhaled from 
 this sea of flowers. Not without reason, then, do sailors 
 assert that Corsica can be smelt at a great distance out 
 to sea: and before his death Napoleon on St. Helena 
 longed for the spicy perfume of his native island. 
 
 There is indeed but little of the Maquis left on the 
 Cap d'Antibes, and ^'et on that small tongue of land in 
 front of the garden of the Grand Hotel one ma\' gather 
 most of the species which constitute the t^•pical Maquis. 
 Among the shrubby plants the Rosemary (Fig. p. 3/ 1 ) strikes 
 us first on account of its perfume, its blue bilateral flowers 
 and its rigid, linear leaves, which are white and felted 
 underneath. It is common ever^'where. The sweet smelling 
 oil escapes if the leaves are bruised. This plant is grown 
 in our gardens at home chielh' for bees, because it imparts 
 a line flavour to the hone^^ Its distribution north of the 
 Alps was furthered in 812 by a "'Kapitulare" of Charles 
 the Great, who ordered the ''rosmarinus" to be planted 
 in the Roval Gardens. In olden times Rosemary was 
 
ROSEMARY. 
 
 125 
 
 much used tor weaving garlands, and "H^x'i 
 thus adorned the images of the Lares. 
 In the Middle Ages this aromatic and ever- 
 green {)lant was symbolic of love, of fidelit}' 
 and of death. Shakespeare, too, mentions it 
 as an emblem of fidelity, wlien he 
 makes distracted Ophelia sav "There's y"^ 
 Rosemar\-, that's for remembrance ; 
 pray, love, remember". And again 
 we meet with it as a symbol oi ^^^,-.^. 
 death in another of Shakespeare's '^^X 1 
 tragedies, when Friar Laurence exhorts \--<^| 
 old Capulet to dr\- up liis tears and 
 to lav Rosemary on the '"fair corse" of 
 
 Juliet. In Germany Rosema^^• used 
 at one time to be the favourite 
 flower of the people and was never 
 absent from the smallest garden. 
 i)Ut now-a-da\s this plant, which 
 has been enshrined in poetry, is almost 
 unknown to them. In the countr\ 
 districts of Germany brides 
 wore Rosemary in their hair 
 and carried it in their bridal 
 bouc[uets until well into the 
 sixteenth century ; and 
 the wedding guests also 
 crowned themselves with gar- 
 lands of Rosemary. Later on 
 Rosemary was supplanted hv M\rtle, 
 
126 MYRTLE AND LAVENDER. 
 
 which was sacred to Aphrodite, and onh' in a few 
 districts, as in Upper Bavaria, has it been able to hold 
 its own until today. On the other hand, curiousl}' enough, 
 the Myrtle has had to give wa^' to Orange-blossom in 
 Italv, for W. Horstel, the esteemed writer on the 
 Riviera [in the "Land und Leute" series, tells ^us that 
 no Italian bride would wear ^Myrtle; it is used there 
 as stable litter. 
 
 Although it is not in blossom in the spring we at 
 once recognise in the Maquis the Myrtle by its shiny, 
 leathery, lanceolate and opposite leaves. A few of these 
 bushes still bear their blueish-black berries which had 
 ripened in the Autumn. When bruised between the lingers 
 the leaves emit a spic\- perfume. Because the Myrtle 
 was an emblem of beauty and youth [it |was thought 
 that the "Eau d'Anges" which was distilled from its 
 leaves must possess some hidden powers. This water 
 was much used in France to restore faded beaut^'. 
 
 Wherever the Maquis approaches the shore Thyme 
 is found in abundance. It carpets the ground and adorns 
 it with countless, small and modest pink blossoms. An- 
 other and taller Labiate, Lavandula Stoechas (Fig. p. 257), 
 is much branched and its violet flower spikes rise above 
 the small, softly-felted leaves. What we chiefly notice 
 about it, however, is not the flowers but the tuft of brilli- 
 antly coloured bracts at the end of the flower spike. It 
 is these that attract the pollen-carrying insects, for the 
 flowers, which are ranged in vertical rows on the angles 
 of the spike, are only small and insignificant. They are 
 of such a dark violet as to appear almost black. 
 
e'lsns. — c^"nM s ini'ociSTis. 127 
 
 L'istns Inislics altouiul on all sides. Tlie\' arc less 
 than a \ aid hi^h. iiuuh branched, and thickK' covered 
 \\ ith hrow nish-green. viscous leaves. (/s//ts inonspc/icnsis 
 ( '■ iiT- P- '^**' 'i'^^ white llowers, while C. a//)/'(//is ( Fi{(. p. ^^) 
 has nuu'h larj^er pink flowers. The blossoms of these jilants 
 are e.\treniel\- delicate. Their petals are tighth' packed 
 and crunijiled in the bud. rhe\' open and smootlie out 
 in the sunshine and spread tlieir numerous \ellow stamens. 
 The flowers fade ver\- rapidh' when a twig- is plucked. 
 but new ones open on it when placed in water. The 
 Cistus bushes contribute not a little to the characteristic 
 odour of the Macjuis at Antibes. The gum which exudes 
 from one or two species of Cistus was formerly a famous 
 remed\- much recommended h\ (xreek doctors under 
 the name of Ladanum or Labdanum. Xow it is onh- 
 used lor incense. Towards the end of April in many 
 places on the Cap careful searching on the ground under 
 the Cistus bushes ma\- reveal a ver\- curious plant para- 
 sitic upon their roots. This remarkable parasite, Cyiii/ns 
 Ilypocislis (Fig. p. lr>7), will be known b\- its flaming red 
 and orange colouring. It has no green leaves: it has 
 dispensed with these because it no longer requires to 
 procure its own nourishment. All the other members of 
 the Raftlesiaceae, to which this C\tinus belongs, are 
 tropical. The\- are all parasitic, and man\- of them have gi- 
 gantic blossoms. The largest flower in the world is produced 
 b}' Raj]Jesia Anioldi, which grows upon the roots of certain 
 climbing Cistuses in Sumatra. Sometimes these flowers 
 are a ^■ard in diameter. Cytiiiiis Jlypocistis, however, is 
 content with llowers of small dimensions. When several 
 
128 THE MASTIC. 
 
 shoots grow close together the\' look as though orange 
 coloured Easter eggs had been placed under a Cistus 
 bush. The Rock-roses {HeliantJionuni) which are mem- 
 bers of our own flora, are closely related to the Cistus 
 bushes. Their delicate, sulphur-\'ellow flowers maA' be 
 seen here and there in the Maquis. \ strongh' armed 
 bush with mellow papilionaceous flowers, Calicotoine 
 spinosa (Fig. p. 61) rises above its neighbours. One can 
 see at a glance that this plant must be closely related to 
 the Genista acautJioclada, that scourge of Tartarus which 
 we first saw in La Mortola Gardens. It is so thickh' 
 set with sharp, thorn-like, lateral branches that one has 
 to keep clear of it in the Mac|uis. Another plant belong- 
 ing to the same order, Spartiuiu jiincciDu (Fig. p. 395) the 
 Spanish Broom, is much less unapproachable. This almost 
 leafless plant has green, rush-like branches and large 
 yellow flowers. Baskets, nets and even shoes are woven 
 from the twigs of the Spanish Broom; the bast is used 
 as string and a kind of linen cloth is woven from it. 
 The Mastic {Pistacia Lcutisciis, Fig. p. 349), is ver\- 
 common in the Maquis where it remains stunted. But 
 under other conditions it can develop into a tree. A line 
 Mastic tree with dense, umbrella-shaped crown may be 
 seen from the Golfe Jouan road in the garden of a villa 
 not far from the (jrand Hotel du Cap. The tree is 
 characterised by its dark-green, pari-pinnate, tough, lea- 
 ther \' leaves, which are shiny above, and h\ its resinous 
 smell. The plant is dioecious, bearing either staminate 
 or carpellary flowers. The staminate flowers are con- 
 spicuous in spite of their small size because the}' grow 
 
11 ii: III e"K riioKN. 12-1 
 
 in close set clusters and are dark red before thev are 
 fully developed. 'The carpellary tlowers are less so 
 because e^reen predominates in them. As these flowers 
 have either oiiI\- stamens or carpels and both sexes are 
 willioul coloured en\elopes the\' are not ada])ted to 
 insect t'ertili/.ation but are wind fertilized. The "mastic"', 
 famed of old. is obtained from the Mastic tr(H\ It is, 
 however, not got trom the shrubs of the Maquis but from 
 carefulh' cultivated trees. Thev succeed best on Chios, 
 which has for this reason been called "Mastic island'". The 
 gum which exudes from incisions made in the stem, and also 
 naturalh' Irom the twigs, is used chiefh- in the East where 
 it is chewed in the same way as are the leaves of the 
 Betel in India. Mastic is said to strengthen the gums 
 and perfume the breath. Turkish ladies of the upper 
 class spend the whole day chewing mastic. With us 
 mastic is used in tooth powder and especialh- for incense 
 and in the making of varnish. 
 
 The evergreen Buckthorn (J^/ianiii2is alafrnnts. 
 Fig. p. M)T), is also characteristic of the Maquis. Earl\- in 
 March this shrub bears dense bunches of small greenish- 
 \ellow tlowers, and later red berries. These latter, however, 
 are not found on ever\' bush as this plant also is dioecious. 
 Careful examination of the leathery leaves of this Buck- 
 thorn will show at their base, in the angles of the \ena- 
 lion, small protuberances on the upper side. The cavit\- 
 in these opens on the under side and is arched cner 
 with hairs. These structures are called "domatia"" because 
 i\\c\ are usualU- occujiied by minute insects to whi^-h 
 the\' ai-)])arentl\- afford shelter. The insects are said on 
 
130 EUPHORBIAS. 
 
 their side to rid the leaf of fungoid spores and microbes, 
 and are thus of service to the phmt. Rhamnus Alatenius 
 was known to Theophrastus and Pliny. Its leaves and 
 liowers were used as remedies in ancient times. Buck- 
 thorn is grown as an ornamental plant in our gardens. 
 The northerner who visits the Mediterranean is sur- 
 prised at the Bush Spurge (Enphorhia dciidroides) because 
 his own Spurges are only lowly weeds. At Mentone 
 Bush Spurges reach two }'ards in height, and their trunks 
 can hardh' be encircled with both hands. The plant 
 forks repeatedh' in the course of its growth and forms 
 a dome-like shrub, which is easil}- recognised at a distance 
 bv its ^■ellow colour. It is one of the most curious plant- 
 forms on the Riviera and is found not only in the Maquis 
 but distributed over the whole coast. Dioscorides and 
 Plinv both mention it. During the summer drought this 
 Spurge sheds its leaves, remaining bare as do our indi- 
 genous northern trees in winter. The natives of the 
 Riviera throw twigs of this Spurge into water to stupify 
 the tish, and we are told of a similar practice in Greece. 
 Euphorbia spiiiosa (Fig. p. 181). another much smaller, 
 bush^- Spurge, grows close to the ground in the Maquis. 
 It is yellow, like the larger species, and derives its name 
 from the tough spines formed h\ the dead twigs. Passer- 
 iini /lirsKta (Fig. p. 325), one of the Thymelaceae which 
 is uncommon elsewhere, ma^' be known by its small, 
 tIesh^', crowded leaves, its hairy white drooping twigs, 
 and small, yellow, inconspicuous flowers. It is common 
 here and will at once be noticed because of its charac- 
 teristic habit. Only solitary specimens of the Strawberry 
 
THE ARBUTUS. 
 
 131 
 
 Tree (^1/'- /J 
 luilu:> I nrdo, 
 Fig. p. ^~) are found 
 lierc, but it is f^ 
 
 usually ah- ^,,^:^^N^. 
 undant in the ( ^^^^'^NA-^ 
 Ma^iuis. Its 
 stra\\"berr\- - like fruits 
 arc sold in the 
 markets of the Riviera. The Ar- 
 butus does not look much like a 
 Heath, nevertheless it belongs 
 to the same family, the Erica- 
 ceae. There is no resemblance in the 
 foliage, but the structure of the flowers 
 is similar. These latter are bell-shaped, like those of 
 the Heath, but much larger, and hang down in pinkish- 
 white panicles. The evergreen, ovate leaves, serrated 
 at the edge, are ver\' like those of the Laurel. The 
 fruits ripen very slowh', and ma^' often be seen on the 
 tree at the same time as the tiowers. They are subacid 
 but insipid: hence Plin\- calls them "Unedo" from ''unum 
 tantum edo'' (I eat onh' one). Arbutus twigs served 
 the Roman populace as charms. The posts and 
 thresholds of doors were struck three times witli 
 these twigs to prevent the entrance of vampires, 
 which were believed to suck the heart -blood from 
 children in their cradles. A twig of the lucky White- 
 thorn placed in the bedroom window likewise kept off 
 these unhoh' creatures. 
 
132 THE EVERGREEN OAK. 
 
 The Evergreen Oak {Qncrcus Ilex, Fig. p. 363) is 
 plentiful everywhere in the Maquis, where it remains a 
 shrub. Its sharply pointed, oval leaves are grey beneath 
 and may be recognised by this peculiarity. The edges 
 of the leaves may be either serrate or entire. Outside 
 the Maquis the Evergreen Oak grows to a fine tree. In 
 ancient Rome the Civic Crown was woven from its 
 twigs. Pliny says that these wreaths were valued above 
 all others — even the most costly. In the Maquis, side 
 by side with the Evergreen Oak, is found the Kermes 
 Oak {Quercus coccifera, Fig. p. 359) which never becomes 
 arborescent here. It is rare on the Cap d'Antibes but 
 much commoner in the Maquis of the Esterel. There 
 the females of the Kermes Cochineal i^Lecanium Ilicis) 
 are still collected on the twigs of this tree before 
 they lay their eggs. These insects are a reddish-brown, 
 the size of lentils and full of a red liquid. A crimson 
 lact|uer is made from them as well as a crimson dye ; 
 but this industry is now no longer profitable. The 
 Kermes is distinguished from the Evergreen Oak by its 
 small leaves which are green beneath and have spinous, 
 serrate edges. The stem is also more branched and 
 generally keeps close to the ground. 
 
 A slender Asparagus (A. aciitifolius^ Fig. p. 45), may 
 be found trailing over some of the bushes in the Maquis. 
 The leafless branches stand out stiffly from the woody, 
 flexible stems, and needle -like twigs take the place of 
 leaves. This Asparagus is much used on the Riviera 
 for decorating and it is twined round mirrors and chan- 
 deliers in the dining rooms. The young shoots are eaten 
 
'r 1^ 1-: 1 -: heath. — riiiLL.vR l:a. U3 
 
 like t)iir Asparagus. In Sii'il\' tlu' tast\' \ouiii( shoots ol the 
 ]-)rickl\ "liutclier's lirooin" (/{/(srus (irnlr(i/ns) are eaten 
 as "Asparai»'iis"": and these were considered as delicacies 
 b\ the ancients. 
 
 Another jilant al\va\s to be met with in the Maqnis. 
 and wliich grows here on the Cap, is the Tree Heath, 
 {J£ricii arborca. Fig. ji. 173). This Erica, which in (ireece 
 was considered an antidote to snake -bite, is \ery like 
 our own Ileatli but it grows up more than a yard above 
 the surrounding plants. Clusters of small, white and 
 nearlv globular llowers with deep violet stamens hanging 
 out of them, deck the twigs in countless numbers. 
 Though not efficaceous against snake - bite it is a ta- 
 vourite with bees, and its wood\- roots are used for car- 
 ving and especially for making pipes. 
 
 We must not omit the Philhrea {P/iillyrca (mgustt- 
 folia, Fig. p. o4,y) as it is also one of the Maquis plants. 
 This bush grows to a heiglit of from one to two yards 
 and is characterised bv its linear- lanceolate, leathery 
 leaves, inclining upwards, and its small white tlowers 
 which are crowded together in close set clusters. This 
 bush belongs to the same family as the Olive tree which 
 it somewhat resembles. Cucoriou tricoccuiu (Fig. p. 10/ ), a 
 bush plentiful on the Cap, is botanicall}- interesting as 
 belonging to a faniil\- not commonlv represented here — 
 the Cneoraceae. It has shin\-. green, lancet-shaped leaves 
 and bears small, yellow tlowers in twos or threes at the end 
 of the twigs. This plant is grown in mauA' gardens on the 
 Riviera for its graceful appearance and it is even to be 
 seen in the formal Casino gardens at Monte Carlo. 
 
134 OTHER MAQUIS PLANTS. 
 
 The Juniper, laden witli big reddish berries, which 
 grows in the Maquis is '/. O.wccdnis (Fig. p. 245). Its 
 berries are used in the East and in Greece for the same 
 purpose as those of our own Juniper. The wood resists 
 the action of the atmosphere and the attacks of wood- 
 worms, and images of the Gods were made out of it in 
 ancient times. 
 
 In places where the vegetation is less dense the 
 Glohularia Alvpum (Fig. p. 207) raises its prett^• blue 
 flower-heads which grow at the ends of its twi£fs. 
 
 Where the ground is so poor that other plants 
 cannot subsist the Cladoiiia alclcornis forms a thick 
 carpet. This grey lichen is distributed over the whole 
 of Europe, N. Africa, N. America and part of Asia. 
 
 Ever\' where in the Maejuis at Antibes we find the 
 shrubby Olive. Like the evergreen Oak the Olive has 
 adapted itself to the Maquis and become a shrub. It 
 has altered so much that even the ancients distinguished 
 it b\- the name of Oleaster. 
 
 The Oleaster, like the Myrtle, ventures very close 
 down to the beach. They brave the violent winds from 
 the sea and are often rounded b\' these as though they 
 had been trimmed by hand. The branches nearest the 
 sea are sometimes actually dead. The twigs of the 
 Olive, the emblem of Peace, become spinous in the 
 Oleaster. They are so sharp and formidable that they 
 make the plant almost unapproachable. 
 
 The Smilax aspera (Fig. p. 387), called "Italienische 
 Stechwinde" in German, is alwa^'s associated with the 
 shrubs of the Maquis however close to the shore the}' 
 
TLA MS liV THE SEA SliORl': 
 
 iiia\" oTow. tor it llnds shelter amonir their branches. 
 Both lea\es and stem are set with spines which facih- 
 tati' its clinihin<»-. The Sniihix llowers in the autumn, 
 and in tlie sj-)rin<»" is adorned with clusters ot red berries. 
 ( )ii account of their sweet ]')erfume llowcrino- spra\'s of 
 this plant were twined into o-;irlands with I\\' for the 
 Hacchii.- festi\als. 
 
 'I'his sketch ma\- serve to give those who are in- 
 terested in the \arious asj-)ects of vegetable lite an idea 
 of the character of tlie Maijuis, that t\pical development 
 of the Mediterranean flora. 
 
 In close proximit\' to tlie sea the reddish-brown 
 earth of the Cap is coloiu'ed an aluKist uniform gvev b^• 
 ciuantities ot a much-branched, xerv hairw prostrate 
 shrub. Onh' the withered intiorescences are to be found 
 on this plant in spring, but its odour is so characteristic 
 that we at once recognise it as HclicJirysiDu Stocchas 
 (Fig. p. 227). It is a spic^' smell like a mixture of Worm- 
 wood and Liijuorice. At e\'er\- step we take, especialh" 
 towards evening, the volatile oil is liberated from these 
 plants, and we walk, as it were, in a cloud of perfume. 
 This IIelichr\'sum belongs to the same famih* as those 
 plants called ■•Immortels", and ••Strohblumcn"" in (icr- 
 man. In the summer it bears shin\', \'ellow, scarious 
 capitula united into llat-topped panicles, which were used 
 even In- the ancients to weave "everlasting" wreaths. In 
 the spring tlie uniform gre\' of the I Ielichr\sum bushes on 
 the shore is relieved hx the bright Aellowllowers of the Bird's 
 foot Trefoil (I^o/iis ornithopodioi'dc^s, Fig. p. 2S,-?). which 
 lie close on the stones and cover them in great prolusion. 
 
136 VEGETATION ON THE POINTE DE L^ISLETTE. 
 
 On the small storm-lashed promontor^•. which projects 
 a few hundred yards further into the sea and is known 
 as Pointe de I'lslette, we find that all vegetable life 
 gradually vanishes. In this exposed position the struggle 
 for existence becomes ever harder for plants, and the\- 
 show outward signs of the peril in which the\' live. 
 Since all plants which rise above the ground here are 
 iable to be destro\-ed, advantage is taken of each 
 crevice: they lie prostrate, their stems are creeping 
 and knotted, and often present the most extraordinar\- 
 appearance. The character of the vegetation is remark- 
 ably like that of alpine regions, and we might imagine 
 ourselves to be thousands of feet above sea level were 
 it not for the blue sea washing up so close to us. The 
 stunted Maquis plants disappear gradualh", for even the\' 
 can exist here only in sheltered clefts in the rocks. In 
 many places we still find a \ellow Lichen, the Lccidia, 
 forming round spots on the bare rocks. Further on, 
 where the sea washes up on all sides into the interstices 
 of the weather-beaten rocks, we are confronted b\- quite 
 different representatives of the Wgetable A\'orld — the 
 marine algae, those dwellers in the deep, which are so 
 rich in form and colour. 
 
 On our return we are struck b^• the sharp contrast 
 between this barren promontor^• and the profusion of 
 foreign plants in the Hotel garden. In front of the 
 house stand exceptionalh- fine bushes of "Marguerites" 
 (Chrysanthemuin fnttcsce?is} from the Canaries. The\' 
 are rounded, nearh- two yards high and crowded with 
 thousands of white, starlike, raved flower-heads. Tcuc- 
 
PLANTS IN THE IIOTICL GARDEN. 
 
 13; 
 
 n'liDi frit/ic(i/i^ forms hedges cvcrvvvhcre 
 in tlicse gardens. This is a North-African 
 shrub witli silvcr-gre\' foHage and graceful 
 blue labiate flo\vers. j\Ialvastru)u capcusc, 
 a Mallow with dark-red, medium-sized 
 flowers, is commonh' met with : also 
 the South - African Oslcospcnuuiii 
 monilifcni)u, a big shrubby Com- 
 posite with \ellovv flower -heads: and 
 Polygala niyrtifolia from the Cape, 
 a shrub familiar in our greenhouses. 
 It bears an abundance of large bright 
 red flowers bordered with purple. 
 These resemble the papilionaceous 
 t\'pe although the\' belong to a very 
 different order, the ]Milkwort or Poly- 
 gala famih'. The South- African 
 jSfeliaiitJius nia/'or has spread widely 
 in the gardens round the Hotel. It 
 is a rather ornamental plant, of 
 peculiar structure and appearance, 
 
 Cystoseira 
 
 ericoides. whicli glvcs its name to the order. 
 In botanical characters it approaches the Bal- 
 samineae. JMeliaullius major is a shrubb^■ plant 
 reaching a height of two \'ards. and bearing large, 
 glaucous, pinnate leaves with serrated edges, and terminal 
 clusters of close-set reddish -brown flowers. The odour 
 of these is not ver\' pleasant. In shape the\- remind 
 one of winged insects. Tlle^' secrete such a quantit\' 
 of nectar that it falls in drops if the plant is shaken. 
 
138 PLANTS IN THE HOTEL GARDEN. 
 
 Sun -birds, (Xectari)iia), hover round these plants to 
 suck the honey and thus effect polHnation. This fact 
 adds interest to the plant, as flowers pollinated by birds 
 are rare. The thick fleshy stems and leaves of the 
 South-African Mesembryanthemum (M. acinaciforme) 
 hang over the terraces and open their large, brilliant, 
 red flowers in the sunshine. Side by side with these 
 grows the yellow-flowered species, M. edtile, which has 
 somewhat smaller leaves and flowers. The flesh^' fruits 
 of these plants are eaten in their native country as 
 "Hottentot's Figs". The Hottentots are said to preserve 
 the juic\' leaves in vinegar like Gherkins. 
 
 In the immediate neighbourhood of the house the 
 garden is carefully kept, but the outh-ing part is more 
 or less left to itself. Here a curious struggle for space, 
 light and subsistence takes place between plants of all 
 latitudes brought together \)\ chance. The Australian 
 Casuarinas are crowded b^' the American Pepper-tree ; 
 the Japanese Pittosporum competes with the Mediter- 
 ranean Tamarisk. The indigenous shrubs have here and 
 there to give way to the Australian Acacias and Euca- 
 lypti, the African, yellow-flowered, shrubby Medic 
 (M. arborea) and the strongly-armed Genistas {G. ferox). 
 But amongst all these the Aleppo Pine (Pinus hale- 
 pensis), with delicate needles, and the Maritime Pine 
 (Puiiis Pinaster) with more rigid leaves, assert themselves 
 and form a transition to the Maquis. 
 
 These two Pines, met with everywhere on the 
 Riviera, may also be distinguished by their cones; for 
 those of the Aleppo are smaller and less substantial than 
 
nil-: PR( )C i:ssK)N cat jlki'illak. 139 
 
 tliosc i)t llie Mariliiiu' I'iiH\ Tlu' Aleppo predominates 
 on ilu' \\ I'siern Riviera, lor tlie calcareous soil suits it; 
 but the Maritime Pine jirelers quartz antl i^ranite soil. 
 I'he cones ot the .Nhuitime I'ine are used on the Ri^•iera 
 tor liirhtiniif fires. Tliose ol tlie P. Piiica, which are 
 roundish and considerahK larcrer. are often used for t]ie 
 same purpose. 
 
 'i'he ••Procession caterpillar'', larva of the moth 
 CnctJioccnupa J^itoraiiipti . is onl\- too common amon<r the 
 Pines on the Cap d"Antibes and else^\■here on the Riviera. 
 These cater]iillars are black w ith brown stripes. Plundreds 
 of them w alk in single file o\er the roads, one touching 
 tlie otlier and forming a long string \\hich moves forward 
 like a li\ing chain. If the chain is broken the front 
 portion halts and the back advances. The first larva of 
 the rear section seeks to re-form the line b\- feeling 
 about. It he succeeds in fmding the front section the 
 wiiole chain moves on again. These caterpillars cause 
 great damage to the Pine trees: the\- often eat them 
 quite bare. During the da\- thev remain in their large 
 grey nests, which are so conspicuous on the Pines and 
 look so silky in the sunshine. At night thev leave their 
 nests in search of food. The caterpillars we see crawling 
 on the ground are seeking a suitable spot in which to 
 pupate. It is dangerous to touch cither the caterpillars 
 or their nests, for the hairs penetrate the skin and set 
 up serious inflammation. Therefore those people who 
 have to rid the trees of these nests keep to the wind- 
 ward side and take every precaution. The best plan 
 is to pour petroleum into the nests without removing 
 
 6 
 
140 STORM ON THE CAP D'ANTIBES. 
 
 them. The nests of these caterpillars up among- the 
 twigs and their long processions on the ground can 
 hardly escape the notice of visitors to the Riviera. But 
 only the initiated are acejuainted with the imago into 
 which they develop. The moths are grey with darker 
 spots and narrow stripes and are neither striking nor 
 pretty. The^' ti^• in the height of summer and lay their 
 eggs on the underside of the Pine needles, covering them 
 with thin, silver^■-grey scales. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Those who have witnessed a storm on the Cap 
 d'Antibes will never forget it. The magnificent spec- 
 tacle of the unchained elements compensates one for the 
 bad weather which has gone before. A strong wind 
 begins to blow from the sea, the air becomes marvel- 
 lously clear and all objects appear nearer. The outlines 
 of the mountains look as though the\' were traced with 
 pencil on the sk^-. In places sheltered from the wind 
 it is oppressiveh' sultry. Then the horizon is enveloped 
 in lurid mist. The wind gradualh' subsides and the 
 whole sk\- becomes overcast. Large drops of rain patter 
 against the window-panes. This continues for several 
 da\'s and keeps ever^'one indoors. The temperature falls 
 gradually and beside the scantA' parlour fire one longs 
 for the warmer stove at home. But next morning we 
 awake dazzled by the blue and radiant sky. We hasten 
 out and inhale the pure, refreshing air. All the plants 
 are still shining with the recent rain, and sparkling like 
 diamonds the drops run off the leaves. The surf dashes 
 
STORM ON THE CAP DANTIP.KS. 141 
 
 heuviU against tlie rocks on the shore as though seeking 
 to siiatter them. The thundering roar of the impact 
 can be heard trom atar. The point ol the Cap can no 
 longer be reached as the waves are washing right o\er 
 it. ( )ut on the sk\-hne a biUow rises Hke a great wall. 
 Swelling as it approaches, it luirls itself onto tlie land 
 to fall back brt)ken and coxered with white foam. It 
 meets another eijualK threatening wa\e and both dis- 
 appear for awliile. Then a calm ensues, for an ad- 
 vancing and a retreating w;ne ha\'e met and annulled 
 each other. But when two ad\ancing waves combine 
 the\- surge up mightiU' and dash themselves on the rocks 
 with curving crest. Masses of water are thrown alott and 
 sea and sk\- are mingled in the chaos. ^\ ith a dull roar as 
 of hea\\- cannonading the waves surge through the caves 
 which the\- themselves have fashioned in the rocks. All round 
 us there is a gurgling, groaning sound from the numberless 
 streamlets making their wa\' back to the sea through the 
 clefts and stonx' iissures of the rock. Beset on all sides by 
 the raging elements, we seem almost to be floating in the 
 open sea, and are gripped b\- the terror of the storm. How 
 pleasant it is to feel the firm ground beneath one's feet ! 
 It is man\- da\s before the agitation of the waves 
 subsides and the broad surface of the sea returns to 
 peace and rest. Ever changing, vet ever tlie same, this 
 divine Mediterranean fascinates and delights us! 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 The walks around the baA s, on the slopes of the 
 
 hills, and among the gardens of the Cap d'Antibes are 
 
 h* 
 
142 FLOWERS EXPORTED FROM THE RIVIERA. 
 
 very beautiful and so varied that the\' invite us to new 
 excursions daily. The views of the coast, the mountain 
 range and the snow\- summits of the Alps change unceas- 
 ingly, and we are ever pleasantly surprised b}' some 
 specially picturesque grouping of rocks or new aspects 
 of vegetation. Even a walk on the high road, else- 
 where so monotonous, is enjoyable on this favoured 
 peninsula — at least on the road which crosses the Cap, 
 for it runs through endless plantations of Anemones, 
 Ranunculi, Wallflowers, Stocks, A'cr/'cissi/s Tazetia and 
 Mignonette. The eye is particularly attracted by the 
 splendour of the Anemones and Ranunculi, which can 
 nowhere be seen in greater perfection. And our sense 
 of smell is gratified at the same time b\' the perfume 
 wafted from this sea of Howers, over which butterflies 
 — those flowers of the air — hover in great numbers. 
 Orange-tips, the 'Kjlory of Provence" {AiitliorJiaris 
 Etiphciwidcs, Fig. p. 143), flv swiftU- b^^ and black-striped 
 Swallow-tails iyPapilio Podali'rius) sail leisureh* to and 
 fro. But it is the Cleopatra {Rhodoccra Cleopatra, 
 Fig. p. 143) a South European Brimstone with front wings 
 suffused with brilliant orange, which strikes us most bv 
 its beauty. 
 
 Great quantities of cat flowers are dispatched to 
 the North daily from the Cap d'Antibes, which also 
 supplies the neighbouring markets on the Riviera. We 
 realise how much flowers are used on the Riviera itself 
 when we have seen the flower-markets in the towns and 
 witnessed some of the floral fetes. The export of flowers 
 to the North has assumed enormous proportions. The 
 
FLOWER GROWING. 
 
 143 
 
 4 
 
 . \nthocharis 
 liiijihcnoidcs 
 
 rise of this inclustr\- dates back no furtlier 
 than 1S50 on the Ri\icra. Hctore that \ 
 tiovvers were grown only for tlie 
 scent manufactories. The gaA' 
 phmtations begin near l^oulon and 
 extend as far as Genoa. The French 
 side of the Riviera has alread\' been converted 
 into one continuous flower-garden. At Ollioules, near 
 Toulon, the Roman Hyacinth flowers very earh- in tlie 
 spring and finds its wa\' to the northern markets before the 
 Dutch Hyacinth appears. Narcissi, Jont[uils, Tazettas and 
 white and red Carnations soon follow at Ollioules. At 
 Grasse, Cannes and Antibes Anemones and Ranunculi 
 predominate. These are of unusual size and colour. 
 The size attained by the Carnations (known as Dia/it/ius 
 Caryophyllus jJore plcuo, var. Marguerite), in this fa- 
 voured climate is astonishing. Many of the blossoms 
 look like small posies. Besides the above-mentioned, 
 Stocks, Wallflowers, Mignonette, Sparaxis, Ixias, Gladioli 
 and the Tea Rose — the cjueen of flowers — are grown. 
 ^ The dark yellow Safrano is the handsomest of 
 
 the Tea Roses; it withstands rough weather 
 
 and shows buds even 
 
 in December. Equal- 
 
 h' satistact()r\- are 
 
 many of the MontliK 
 
 Roses, the white Jh^no-al- 
 
 Diicher and the vedBeno-al- 
 
 \inglanf, which are prefer- 
 
 Rhodocera cicoj>atra. red ou accouut of their earh' 
 
144 ACACIAS. 
 
 flowering. The more delicate kinds, such as the Marcchal 
 Niel, Marie van Houtte, Gloire de Dijon, Souvenir de la 
 Malmaison, Paul Xahon?iand and La France, which adorn 
 our gardens in summer, thrive on sunny walls and under 
 glass. Large areas are thus covered in at Cannes and 
 Antibes. Hundreds of thousands of these flowers blossom 
 in a single day in spring at these two places ■ — often when 
 there is no possibiUty of turning them to account. In 
 Cannes Acacia dealhata is being more and more culti- 
 vated and exported to the North. Its balls of flowers 
 united into sprays and its delicately pinnate leaves have 
 obtained for it the name of "Mimosa" in the trade. 
 The tree grows with astonishing rapidit}', attaining a 
 height of ten yards in five or six years. As early as 
 January these trees are smothered in yellow flowers. 
 Acacia retinoides is sent to Germany in quantities ; it has 
 balls of flowers like the other species, but simple, 
 leather^-, lanceolate leaves. In realit\' these leaf-like 
 organs are not leaves but flattened leaf-stalks. For com- 
 parison with other species of xA-cacia shows that the leaf- 
 blades have disappeared and been replaced by the 
 dilated petioles. Structures of this kind are called pliA'l- 
 lodes. Acacia longifolia, which is often seen in our 
 northern flower-shops, also has these phyllodes. This 
 species is easily distinguished, for the flowers, instead 
 of being united into balls, form catkin-like inflorescences 
 resembling caterpillars. The flowers of all these Acacias 
 are yellow. They blossom in succession on the Riviera, 
 Acacia cultriformis being last. This does not reach its 
 full perfection until March. Its inflorescence is spherical 
 
Fi,n\vi:RS r.xroR'iM:i) from thr ki\'ii:ra. i in 
 
 and its pin llodcs are short. bri)ad and lozeiii^e-shaped. 
 The universal tavourite — Mignonette — is al\va\s 
 among the tlowers sent awa}'. \'iolets do not stand a 
 long journex well, but great quantities ol them are used 
 on the Riviera itself. The^ are also candied and made 
 into sweetmeats. Blue Cornflowers, Tuberoses, Wall- 
 flowers. Stocks, (iladioli, white Allium. Ixias and perfumed 
 b'reesias are all exported. \'isitors will be struck hv a 
 large Iris often to be seen in the windows of flower 
 shops on the Riviera. This Jr/s Su^'naz/a is minutely 
 speckled with purple and is a regular mourning-flower. 
 The white and ^ ellow flowers of the big Chrysanthemum 
 (C. fn</csccns) are much in request, especialh- the ^•ellow 
 ones, which are known as "Etoile d'or''. l"he^' find 
 their wax chiefK- to England, where the demand for 
 these flowers continues until June — as long as the 
 London season lasts. It has been calculated that Cannes 
 and Antibes alone exported more than fort\' thousand 
 pounds worth of cut flowers to the Xorth in one winter. 
 Their sale on the Ri\iera itself is much greater than this. 
 Keen competition is alwa^•s inciting inventive minds to 
 produce new "creations'" for the flower-market. Thus 
 green Carnations made their aj^j'jearance in the Paris 
 markets as a novelty, and in fact no such thing had 
 been seen before unless it be in the pictures of the 
 Impressionists. P>ut it transpired that these green Car- 
 nations were not entirelv natural products. They where 
 obtained b}- keeping white Carnations with their stalks 
 in a coloured solution for a day, or longer. To succeed 
 thoroughly the end of the stalk must be several times 
 
146 EILEN ROCK AND THURET GARDENS. 
 
 re -cut while under the sokition. Other colours can be 
 obtained in the same manner, but colouring matter must 
 be chosen which can be absorbed b\- the plant. The 
 most successful of these experiments is tlie tintine;- of 
 white flowers with red bv eosin. 
 
 There is much traffic on the roads of the Cap 
 d'Antibes on Tuesdays and Fridays. Carriages come 
 from all parts bringing visitors to Eilen Rock: this garden 
 is open on the atternoons of those da^'s. The garden 
 includes the first promontory of the Cap east of the (jrand 
 Hotel. Tt is terminated by steep rocks which fall preci- 
 pitously to the sea. Steps and paths in the rock lead 
 down to the water. Owing to its prominent position the 
 garden commands splended views; it is moreover rich 
 in beautiful plants. Laid out with much taste and skill 
 the garden delights man^' a visitor; but to the nature- 
 lover it will perhaps seem a little artificial, especialh' amid 
 these grand surroundings. 
 
 On Thursdays also the Thuret gardens, which so 
 charmed Georges Sand, are open from early morning. 
 The French Government now uses this as a Botanic Garden 
 for experiments in acclimatisation, and there are ver\' 
 many valuable plants in it. We find here even finer 
 specimens of some of the species we had admired at La 
 Mortola. The plants from S. W. Africa, S. W. AustraHa, 
 Central China and California thrive best in this garden 
 as elsewhere on the Riviera, for the Mediterranean climate 
 most closely resembles that of those regions. We also 
 see plants from other countries, but these flourish mainly 
 by reason of the care bestowed upon them. 
 
CAr UANTIBES. 147 
 
 B\ turning- down westward from tlie Thuret Ciardens 
 tho road wliich leads to Golfe jouan is easil}- reached. 
 Following- this we come to the Pine-wood which stretches 
 aloiif the coast. This wood was once the pride of the Cap, 
 hut onl\' fraq"nu'nts of it now remain. A company has 
 Itoiiirht the lantl. and tln-oui(h the Pine-wood a road has 
 been made wliich connects Cannes and the Cap d'Antibes. 
 The wood itself has been enclosed b\- a wire fence and 
 divided into lots. But man\- a might\- tree still stands 
 under whose shadow we realise the former grandeur of 
 this grove. 
 
 CHAPTER Xli. 
 
 It was now mid April and dut\- called me home. 
 A wondrous briglit spring da\' was drawing to its close. 
 Desirous of contemplating the sunset once more from the 
 highest point on the Cap. I took the shortest way through 
 the Pines to the eastern shore intending to ascend to the 
 lighthouse from the side nearest the sea. I was soon sur- 
 rounded bv the aromatic plants of the ^hlquis: the flowers 
 of the Rosemar\- (Fig. p. 371) and Cistus (Fig. p. S3) and 
 the shining leaves of the Pistachias (F"ig. p. 349). The flame 
 coloured Cytimis Ilyporisiis (Fig. p. 157) was growing in 
 profusion on the roots of the Cistus buslics. forming a 
 deep orange patch on the red-brown earth. Most ot the 
 shoots were full\- developed, so that the bracts were no 
 longer crowded together as in the bud, and the ilowers 
 were open. Cistus still lined the path mingled with 
 Lavender (Fig. p. 2.^7) andTh\-me wliich strongh- pertumed 
 the air. .\ blue Salvia, .S'. /loDiiiiioic/cs (Fig. \). 37.^). grew 
 
148 SUNSET FROM CAP D'ANTIBES. 
 
 in all the clearings, also a charming, silver\-gre\-, 
 hairy, Mediterranean Bindweed, Convolvulus althaeotdes, 
 Fig. p. 11')), which was alread\' closing its pink corollas 
 in anticipation of approaching nightfall. Beside a 
 dilapidated coast-guard shelter on the shore I saw 
 several plants of the tree Mallow {Lavatera arhorca, 
 Fig. p. 263). This line Mallow bears a profusion of violet 
 flowers in spring and has the appearance of a small tree. 
 It is not unfrequenth' met with on the Cap. Though not 
 originally wild here it is nevertheless thoroughly established, 
 as is the shrubby, glaucous Atriplex Halimus which often 
 forms thick hedges b^' the sea. On the ascent towards the 
 lighthouse I also found a Jasmine ('J. fruticans, Fig. p. 233), 
 a tall indigenous shrub. Those who expect the flowers 
 to be strongh' perfumed will be disappointed, for this 
 plant differs from other Jasmins in having little scent. 
 As I reached the Chapel on the top the sun was about to 
 sink behind the Esterel and bathed the dark blue summits 
 in gold and purple. Soon the path of the vanished orb 
 could be traced onh' b^■ the Ion"- streamers of lipfht which 
 radiated from the spot. I was depressed rather than 
 delighted by the grandeur of the spectale, for to me it 
 meant larewell. I turned \\\\ eyes to the sfiant mountains 
 whose phantom outlines towered against the eastern sk^^ 
 The\- were coloured \i\ the sunset fjlow. It was a sublime 
 spectacle in which one loses oneself, carried awa\' h\ that 
 immeasurable longing which unites us with the All. 
 Personalit}' was absorbed in the powerful sentiment of 
 union with the Divine in Xature. Farther the shadows 
 spread and farther on the land : they climbed the hills, 
 
Sl'NSF/r [-KOM LAP D'ANTIBES. 149 
 
 the\- scak'tl llu- lici^lits: i1k'\- pii-rcccl the depths of the 
 vallexs, enveloping" in darkness iioth j^ahice and cottage. 
 All Xature sank to sleep. vSoon the onl\- lights were 
 those wliich touched the rose-red summits of the snowy 
 Alps and the solitary sails upon the sea. Then a dark 
 shade sank upon the 'deej:). and it was granted onh' to 
 those cjiants there alott to behold the ivord of Li<>ht. 
 ikirning as it were, with inward lire. the\' tloated in a 
 glor\ which is not of this world. 
 
 I closed my eyes and turned awa\- wishing to retain 
 this scene in mv mind as a last impression of the Riviera. 
 When I at length looked up tlie dark veil of night had 
 fallen even on the summits and all outlines were blurred 
 and fantastic. High above me the lighthouse flashed 
 like a meteor far over land and sea, a beacon for the 
 longing gaze of those who have once visited this sublime spot. 
 
.^•''a*^ 
 
 8EC0XT) JOniXEY. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 
 Ihe early Spring of 1894, which I spent on the 
 Riviera, is impressed on my memory as one of 
 particularly brilliant colouring. For weeks the sky was 
 cloudless and shed its golden light upon the earth. The 
 Mistral, that ic^■ wind which comes down from the snowy 
 slopes of the Alps and the Cevennes, rarely blew as there 
 was but little snow on the mountains. The sea was calm, 
 and at night when the stars twinkled they were as bril- 
 liantly retlected in the still waters as though a second 
 harvest of them had sprung up in the deep. 
 
 We arrived at Hveres in the middle of March, inten- 
 ding soon to make our wa\- westward to the Montagues 
 des Maures. We felt as though we were starting on a 
 voyage of discovery, so little is the western end of the 
 Riviera known. And yet Ilyeres could, next to Mont- 
 pellier and Aix-en-Provence, once pride herself on being 
 
152 HYERES. 
 
 the most famous health resort in the South of France. 
 In those days it seemed hardlv possible to penetrate 
 further east on the Riviera; and not until fifty years ago, 
 when circumstances changed, did first Nice and then 
 Mentone and Cannes begin to flourish as health resorts. 
 In the competition which now arose Hyeres was bound 
 to succumb, for she is not so well sheltered ag-ainst the 
 north wind and the Mistral as are her rivals. She is 
 inferior to them also in beaut^' of situation and is too 
 far from the sea. "The hills here are too low and too 
 near, the coast too level and the sea too far off" — 
 exclaimed Georges Sand when she visited Hyeres. From 
 the hill on which the town lies the sea can only be seen 
 across a broad tract of low land. On this, angular 
 reddish-brown fields, unrelieved bv mellows or greens, 
 stand out in glaring contrast. These fields are Rose 
 plantations; but even our prediliction for this flower does 
 not blind us to the want of harmon^' in the colouring 
 of the landscape. The tints of these Rose plantations 
 at this time of year are not due to the splendour of 
 the blossoms, but to the young shoots which are very 
 red. The red colouring matter absorbs the greatest 
 number of warm rays; this is an advantage in spring 
 when evaporation is increased and the circulation of the 
 sap, which is necessary to the health^' development of 
 the plant, is promoted. 
 
 In earlier days the outlook over the plains of Hyeres 
 must have been pleasanter: at least Horace Benedict 
 de Saussure was greatly charmed when he saw it in 1787. 
 This eminent Geologist, father of the more famous Physio- 
 
ANX'IENT OLHIA. \5:^ 
 
 logical botanist Theoclore de Saussurc, arrived hcri' on a 
 lovch- April evening and was spell-bound b\ the beaut\- 
 of the situation. From the windows of the "Auberge du 
 Saint Esprit" he looked down on Orange groves which 
 were in the full sjilendour of fruit and blossom, and 
 enlivened b\ innumerable nightingales. The land lell awa\ 
 gradualh to the sea. so he wrote, and the slope was 
 adorned in the foreground hv gardens, with Olive gro- 
 ves bex'ond and Poplars in the distance. Wooded heights 
 formed a frame to tliis loveh" picture. 
 
 Hveres is fne kilometres from the shore on which 
 formerh' stood Olbia. whence HAeres had its origin. 
 Founded b\- Massiliots and destro^■ed b\' Saracens, this 
 town was rebuilt on the heights further from the sea, 
 that it might not be so directh' exposed to the attacks 
 of the Corsairs. The site of ancient Olbia is now divided, 
 like a chess-board, into squares. These are flooded w ith 
 sea water, which is left to evaporate in the liot summer 
 sun for the sake of the salt which is deposited. Opposite 
 are the Islands of Iheres stretched out as though sleeping 
 peacefulh' in the sea. The Ligurians once obtained from 
 these islands the red coral with whicli the\' adorned the 
 necks of their women and the belts of their swords. And be- 
 cause of the Laz'aiuiida StoccJias (Fig. p. 257), which grew 
 here in irreat abundance, these islands were in ancient times 
 called "Stoechades". The perfume of this species ot La- 
 vender was formerh' much prized. The plant owes its name 
 to the arrangement of its flowers in vertical ranks. In the 
 Middle Ages tlie Stoechades changed their name for the 
 high-sounding one of the "'Golden Isles". Was it the ( lolden 
 
1_54 O RANGE GROVES OF HYERES. 
 
 Apples of the Hesperides or the golden gleam of its 
 shimmering soil which procured for these islands the name 
 ot "lies d'or"? Xo one can decide that now. When 
 Francis I created the Marquisate of the "'lies d'or", these 
 islands saw brilliant times. Now the^' are inhabited onh' 
 bv poor fishermen and market gardeners. Those fruits 
 from which the Golden Isles seek to derive their name 
 have now almost vanished from the neighbourhood. But 
 at one time the Orange groves of PI\'eres had a great 
 reputation. More than 200,000 Orange trees covered 
 the district and were well calculated to awaken the 
 veonder of travellers. 
 
 Chroniclers relate how Charles IX of France, standing 
 in astonishment before the largest Orange tree, requested 
 his two companions, the King of Xavarre and the Duke 
 of Anjou, to help him to span round the tree. But the 
 six princeh' arms, we are told, failed to stretch so 
 far! In remembrance of this illustrious embrace "Caroli 
 regis amplexu glorior" was cut into the bark; and the 
 inscription grew and increased with the vears. Who 
 now can tell whether this storv rests on an^' basis of 
 fact! — However it is certain that the Chroniclers were 
 led by their liveh' Provencal imagination to over estimate 
 the thickness of the trunk. The finest Orange trees now 
 known in Europe are in Sardinia. Some of these are 
 thoupfht to be more than seven hundred vears old. \ et 
 only at this great age do their trunks measure more than 
 a single man can span round with his arms. W hen 
 Charles IX visited Hyeres in 1564 he could not have 
 found so thick a stem, since the Orange trees were first 
 
ORANGE TRl-:i:S UF liVERlCS. ISS 
 
 broui^lit there hv the C'rusadcrs towards the end of 
 the eleventh ccntui\ . .\h)reo\'er it iiuist June been 
 the bitter-fruited Orange tree whicli tlourislu'd there, 
 the one wiih ahnost uneatable fruits, but which \ields 
 a \er\- sweet essence. For the poet Malherbe provided 
 himself in Iheres with tliat "huile de lleurs d'Oranger, 
 which women rub into their liair to retain the powder". 
 The Orange trees of H^eres suffered greath- during 
 the severe winter of 1709, and in other severe winters 
 which succeeded one another in the middle of that 
 centur\ . The plantations were reduced and the bitter- 
 fruited trees replaced hv the sweet ones, for oranges 
 could be more nuickK- transported to the Xorth from 
 Hyeres than from places further south. This was no 
 doubt the result of the then defective means of com- 
 munication. The oranges were gathered in the autumn 
 at Iheres, as soon as the first ^•ellow spots showed on 
 the green skin, and, carefulh' wrapped in paper. the\' 
 were dispatched on their land or sea ]Ourne\-. The\- 
 ripened gradualh' on the waA' and became edible in 
 about fort"\' da^s. Orange trees have now almost com- 
 pleteh' disappeared from HAeres, which could not hold 
 out against the competition of the more sheltered places 
 on tlie Riviera, and especiallv of those more distant 
 countries which our present means of communication 
 have brought so near. The Orange trees of I heres 
 fared no better than did formerly its Sugar Canes, which 
 in the fifteenth centur\- covered wide stretches of land, 
 but which vanished when the Indian and Brazilian sugar 
 appeared on the market. 
 
156 PALMS AND VIOLETS AT HYERES. 
 
 With justifiable pride, however, Piyeres can still 
 call herself "Hyeres les Palmiers". It is true that Palm 
 trees are now distributed over the whole Riviera; but it 
 is easy to tell bv the size of the trees at Hyeres that 
 in this old health resort their careful culture is of long 
 standing. In the Avenue des Palmiers the slender stems 
 rise like the pillars of a loft\' hall on both sides of the 
 street, and wave their proud heads high up against the 
 blue sk^^ Hyeres has for some time past been turning 
 its attention to a more profitable, if humbler, industry. 
 We found whole fields of Molets in blossom in the 
 middle of March; thev where not the same modest 
 little tiowers which hide themselves under their leaves 
 at home, but a far larger species — "le Czar" — which 
 boldly raises its blossoms on long stalks above the 
 leaves. They are strongly scented and we revelled in 
 the perfume which the breezes wafted to us from these 
 Violet fields. Other tracts are planted with "primeurs". 
 In the beginning of the centur\' the artichokes of 
 Hyeres were already- held in high esteem, as are now 
 the green peas and especially the strawberries, which 
 are sent to Paris. A special train runs daily from 
 Hyeres laden with these products, and is jocularly called 
 "train de primeurs'". It should not be imagined, however, 
 that all these crops succeed in the climate of Hyeres 
 without attention. Even here the}' require much care 
 and unremitting industry. Low hedges run parallel to 
 the furrows of the fields, and this clearly indicates the 
 direction whence danger threatens. For, in spite of all 
 assertions to the contrary, Hyeres is not fully sheltered 
 
II^■I•:R^:s in ism. 
 
 157 
 
 from the Mistral, which with unabated fur\' rushes 
 unchecked through the gap in tlie mountains near Toulon. 
 Continuous drought is also a serious drawback and cannot 
 alwa\s be remedied hv irrigation. Nevertheless there 
 is a considerable difference of climate between I lyeres 
 and the rest of Provence and even "^Foulon which lies 
 so close at hand: for these are much more exjiosed to 
 the Mistral. In former times the traveller coming 
 from the west and seeing for the first time Palms, and 
 Orange trees laden with their golden fruit, imagined 
 himself transported to the gates of Paradise. Old books 
 of tra\el are full of praises of II\eres. As for instance 
 that of Aubin-Louis Millin, "Conservateur des medailles, 
 des pierres gravees et des antiques de la Bibliotheque 
 imperiale'*. who in 1S04 travelled in the South of France 
 commissioned hy the Minister Chastal. '"I today visited 
 the garden of ^Monsieur Fille 
 (writes Millin). Thousands 
 of llowers surround his 
 house. Tuberoses {Pol\- T 
 ant/ics tuherosd), Mimosa 
 (J/ Farnesiand), and Jasmine 
 i^y.Sambac) perfume 
 the air with their 
 divine fragrance. The 
 gardens once praised by singers 
 and ]')oets - — those of Alcine .'— 
 and Armide. created b^• the 
 fertile genius of Ariosto and 
 Tasso — however vividh pictured in our 
 
 C\tiniis 
 Jfy/'Ocisti 
 
158 THE MAURETTES. 
 
 imagination, pale before the garden which we see here 
 with our own eyes. We seem no longer to be walking 
 upon earth, but rather to be transported to those groves 
 in which the souls of the righteous enjO^' everlasting bliss. 
 The trees stand so close to one another that it is onh' 
 possible to pass through them b\' artfulh' planned paths. 
 Eighteen thousand Orange trees, laden with flowers and 
 fruit, shelter in their branches innumerable nightingales 
 and their songs rise like a hvmn to N^ature — a hvmn 
 of thanks for such a delightful and fragrant shelter. 
 Other birds join their voices to this brilliant concert, 
 while bus\' bees swarm humming round the flowers 
 gathering the rich food so profuseh' lavished". 
 
 Similar sentiments of sensuous delight aroused bv 
 the genial climate may have induced the Massiliots to 
 call their settlement on this coast "Olbia" — the blessed. 
 
 We loved to roam on sunn^' afternoons on the 
 Maurettes, those heights which flank the town of H^•eres. 
 We would seek out the spots whence the ancient Castle 
 of Hyeres shows in the fairest setting. Blue sea in the 
 distance, green hills and checkered plain. Resting amid 
 Rosemary, Myrtle and Lavender we would forget the 
 fleeting hours and attempt to repeople those ruins which 
 crown the rocks vonder so majestically. These ruins 
 are still guarded by watch-towers and walls, which 
 follow all the inequalities of the mountain in their deeply 
 indented outline. 
 
 From the twelfth centur^' the "Chastel d'Yeres" 
 was held b}' the Lords de Foz, a collateral branch of 
 the Viscounts of Marseilles. Man^■ a fierce struggle they 
 
Till': ciiAsri'.L 1)\i:rks. 15^» 
 
 had to retain the fortress, and often from the watch- 
 towers their matchlocks flashed ai^ainst the foe. In 
 peaceful times the songs of the Troubadours resounded 
 in the Castle, accompanied by the strains of the six- 
 stringed \'iola. Mabille dc Foz was president of the 
 Court of Love of Pierrefeu, which with Roniani, Avignon 
 and Signe formed the four most distinguished "cours 
 d'amour" of IVovcnce. In June 1254 there was a royal 
 visit to the L'astle. Saint Louis, recalled from Palestine 
 b\ tlie death of his mother, came hither on his way 
 back to France. A few centuries later Francis L was 
 entertained here, while Louis XIII saw only the ruins 
 of the fastness, for IIenr\- I\' had decided upon its 
 destruction. Xow the walls are clothed with luxuriant 
 verdure, and spring tlowers of man^' colours deck tlie 
 summits of the towers. The dark hill is sharph' outlined 
 against the bright e\ening sk^• when the Provencal sun 
 sinks to rest behind tlie ruins. Then it Hoods with its 
 lio-ht land and sea. sfilds the dark rocks and forms a 
 golden halo round the ancient pile. But the ruins had 
 a still more profound and mysterious attraction for us 
 after nightfall when the moon had enticed us abroad 
 onto the hills again. Iler silver^' ra^■s penetrated deep 
 int(j the clefts and crannies of the battered masonry and 
 cast uncaniu' shadows among the ruins. Now the old 
 walls and turrets assume human shape, appear to move 
 their limbs and to gaze into the distance. Suddenly all 
 is once more lifeless, for a cloud has cast its dark 
 shadow on the hill. But when the moon came forth 
 again it seemed to us as though the turrets had joined 
 
160 CASTLE OF IIYERES. 
 
 hands and were whirling' round the ruins in an infernal 
 dance. L^p hill and down dale and over the steep rocks 
 the}' went, while the wind groaned and shrieked a wild, 
 threatening accompaniment. For a few seconds the 
 fastness was as brillianth- illuminated as though it were 
 on lire — then once more all vanished in the darkness 
 of the night. With whirling gusts and thunder and 
 lightning a storm was rising from the west, and ma\' 
 perhaps have conjured up before us these fantastic 
 visions. Rapidh' darkness spread over the landscape 
 and onh' the distant sea was still bathed in silver\' 
 light. A dazzling flash shot through the air, followed b\- 
 a deafening peal of thunder which seemed to shake the 
 earth to its foundations. We stood dazed, while the 
 thunder rolled further off. It still resounded hollow in 
 the nearest heights, reverberating from the rocks with 
 ever lessening echo, approaching again, and at last dying 
 awa^• in the distance. Did this brilliant flash of light- 
 ning strike the Castle, or blast those slender C^'presses 
 which point so proudh' heavenward from the ruins, as 
 though in defiance? HeavA' rain-drops began to fall — 
 it was time to return. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 The range of mountains which rises to the east of 
 Hveres was a stronghold of the Moors in the ninth and 
 tenth centuries; and it appropriately bears their name. 
 From these mountain fastnesses thev terrorised the coast 
 far and wide. The Montagues des Maures are highly 
 interesting from a geological point of vieu'. Thev present 
 
'nil'; MON rA(;Ni:s ui:s mal kes. n.i 
 
 an instance of an isolated mountain system whose granite, 
 frneiss and schists are completeh' cut off from the ncigh- 
 bourino- limestone mountains hv deep valle\-.s. Like tlie 
 Alps or tlu' P\ rcnees. the Montagues des Maures possess, 
 although on a small scale, their own river system, their 
 own ra\iiu's and \alle\s. This district differs as widely 
 from the rest of Provence as though it were an island 
 King at some distance out at sea. A railwa\', (Cliemin 
 dc fer du Sud de la France), has recently been run along 
 the coast at the foot of this range. The line ends at 
 St. Raphael, where it meets the main line between Mar- 
 seilles and Genoa. Tliese hills can be easily explored 
 from the stations of the Sud de la France line : and it 
 was these excursions which detained us in Ilyeres. We 
 never wearied of the journe\- along the coast, for the 
 scener\- is charming, with constant alternations of forest- 
 and sea - scape. The mountains themselves, however, 
 present little variet\'. for their summits are rounded and 
 do not exceed 1320 feet in height. Yet the luxuriant woods 
 which clothe them tempt one to explore them further. 
 The forests of Cork Oaks will at once strike those who 
 have never seen them before. The Evergreen Oak is 
 familiar, but the stripped trunks and branches of the 
 Cork Oak present an unusual appearance. The crown 
 of the Cork (^ak resembles the Evergreen Oak and its 
 leaves are also coriaceous. Thev are only to be distin- 
 guished from the leaves of the latter bv their ovate form 
 and slightK serrated edges. But the red-brown colour 
 of the stripped parts, which appear almost blood-red in 
 the sunshine, is ver\ striking. 
 
 
162 THE COR K OAK. 
 
 The population of the Montagues des Maures lives 
 chiefly by the cork industn'. Though the cork obtained 
 in the district is inferior to that of Spain and Algiers, it 
 is still a valued article of commerce and forms a profitable 
 source of income. Before the Cork Oak can be stripped 
 it must have attained a certain size. This may take from 
 fifteen to twent\' ^•ears. The first cork is full of cracks 
 and brittle and is used principalh' in tanning. Because 
 it is rough and hard it is called ''male cork". After 
 this the smoother, softer and more useful cork is produced. 
 This is called "female cork". The trees are stripped at 
 periods var\'ing from eight to sixteen ^•ears, according to 
 the thickness required in the sheets of cork. For ordinar^• 
 bottle-corks eight-year-old sheets are thick enough, but 
 for "noble" Champagne corks much stronger and thicker 
 sheets are necessary — about five centimetres thick. The tree 
 is repeatedly stripped until it is a hundred and i\iU\ 
 or even two hundred \'ears old. Then the qualit\- of its 
 bark deteriorates and the tree is replaced b\- a ^•ounger 
 plant. These ancient Oaks are ver^• majestic, and their 
 mighty crowns and gnarled trunks are conspicuous among 
 their surroundings. With pleasure does the eye rest upon 
 them when, as is frequenth' the case, the^' are pictures- 
 queh- grouped round isolated bosses of rock on the hillside. 
 The Cork Oak prefers a soil composed of weathered 
 granite and shale, and avoids limestone. So that the 
 Montagues des Maures are as much isolated from the 
 rest of Provence in point of vegetation as they are 
 geographically. On the limestone of the neighbouring 
 Alps the Cork Oak is not to be found. At Mentone and 
 
I'LANTS INDlCATlNi; SL BSOIL. 
 
 I()3 
 
 would 
 all its 
 curious 
 ation 
 
 Nice it maN' be sought for in ^•a^n and is onW 
 to be met with occasionalh' at Cannes. 
 ' As the Cork Oak woods of the Mon- 
 ^ tagnes des Maures betra\' the primitive 
 4^j^ rock of the range, so other 
 '//A/^ plants indicate the limes- 
 tone of the adjacent Alps. 
 Sometimes solitar\- patches 
 ^ of rock ma^■ be recognised b\' 
 their vegetation. Thus a few 
 \'ears ago the Inspector of Woods 
 md Forests at Saint -\'enant, in 
 the forest of Orleans, noticed 
 a narrow strip of calcareous 
 plants about half a mile long, 
 whereas the remaining flora of 
 the wood indicated silicious soil. 
 lie was led b^' this observation 
 to dig, and at no great depth he 
 discovered an old Roman road 
 paved with limestone. — The Cork 
 Oaks of the Montagues des Maures 
 ire stripped during the summer, when 
 not onh the trunk but also the thicker 
 branches are peeled : but this is alwa\s 
 restricted to certain parts, for it 
 be injurious to the tree to deprive it of 
 bark at once. The bared portions present the most 
 appearance, for immediateh alter the oper- 
 the\' are tlesh-coloured but gradualK- become 
 
164 CORK. 
 
 darker. The workman commences the stripping, which 
 is called "demasclage", hv making two circular incisions 
 round the tree through the whole depth of the cork 
 layer and then connects these rings hv longitudinal slits, 
 the number of which varies according to the size of 
 the tree. This operation is accomplished bv an axe, 
 which has a sharpened, wedge-shaped handle. He 
 inserts this under the bark through the cuts and raises 
 it. Then the sheets of cork are weighted with stones 
 so that thev may lose their curve, and are held over 
 fire and their surface a little charred. It is essential that 
 the sheets of cork be dry before the^' are exported. 
 
 Cork is the natural protection of plants. The older 
 bark of almost all our bushes and trees is covered with 
 cork and owes its colouring to it. Gases and liquids 
 cannot penetrate cork which is elastic and has great powers 
 of resistance. These qualities are not only of service to 
 the living plant but determine its practical utility. If a 
 plant is injured suberous tissue forms over the wound 
 and encloses it : hence the new growth of cork on a 
 stripped Oak. Like any other tissue cork consists of 
 cells. Indeed it was in a piece of cork that Robert Hooke 
 discovered, in 166/, those chambers which he called "cells" 
 because they appeared to him to correspond to the cells 
 of a honeycomb. The cells of mature cork contain no 
 living protoplasm, that substance which constitutes the 
 life of a cell. Cork cells dispense with this, soon after 
 they are formed, in order that their corky covering may 
 serve the plant as a protection. A special layer of living 
 tissue inside the bark — the so-called cork cambium — 
 
COKK. 1()5 
 
 lornis the CDi'k In- means ol contiiuioiis imiltiplieation of 
 its cells. The \'ouno-er huers of cork cells are produced 
 inside the older ones. In the Cork Oak these cells are 
 approximateh' cube-shaped, but towards the end of each 
 period of vegetation thcA- flatten out and become tabular. 
 ^Phe "female cork" of the L'ork Oak is distinguished bv 
 the thinness of its cell-walls, and b^• great uniformity 
 in their shape. Onh' at the conclusion of each period 
 of vegetation are a few hu'ers of more strongly thickened 
 and flattened cells produced. It is these latter which 
 form the dark stripes which are to be seen in ever^' bottle- 
 cork. As the darker la\ers indicate the limit of the 
 annual growth, the age of each sheet of cork can be 
 estimated just as the age of wood can be determined b\- 
 tlie number of annual rings on it. 
 
 If a Cork Oak is stripped a new cork cambium 
 torms under the exposed surface, and begins a new cork 
 la\er. The cork onh' and not the bast, should be 
 removed : much less should the wood be reached, for 
 deep wounds take time to heal and retard the formation 
 of cork at the injured spots. Should a branch never 
 have been stripped, it presents, like other species of 
 Oak, a cracked bark the outer hners of which are 
 gradually thrown off. Even in cases where the tree 
 has been stripped the cork should not exceed a certain 
 age, otherwise it becomes furrowed on the outside and 
 useless. 
 
 Besides the Cork Oaks, Spanish Chestnuts are also 
 cultivated in the Montagues des Maures. There theA- 
 cover altogether an area of more than four thousand 
 
166 BORMES. 
 
 hectares and yield those particularly line chestnuts which 
 are exported as "Marrons de Lyons". 
 
 In the western portion of the Montagues des Maures 
 there is no lovelier spot than Bormes. This can be 
 reached bv train from Hveres in an hour. There we 
 ascend from the shore to the hill on which the little 
 village stands like an amphitheatre. The houses are 
 scattered at different heights; here singh' there in groups, 
 as though attempting to climb the mountain. The place 
 is dominated by an old Castle whose gre\' ruins show 
 clearly against the dark green background of the woods. 
 The slope is overgrown with aromatic herbs, and each 
 step liberates their sweet-scented oils. Whole tracts are 
 violet with that Lavender {-Lavandula Stocc/nrs, Fig. p. 257) 
 which at one time gave its name to the Islands of 
 Hyeres. [This plant is still found in such abundance 
 here that a neighbouring village is named from it — 
 "Lavandou"". We ascend farther into the wood among 
 Cork Oaks, Pines and evergreen bushes. Here, too. 
 everything is now in bloom. The air is laden with per- 
 fume, and from the Pines, if touched, thick clouds of 
 pollen rise. The outlook over the dusk\' ruins, the 
 bright village and the blue sea, into which a tongue of 
 land stretches far away, increases in grandeur. East- 
 ward we gaze down into the roadstead of Bormes. and 
 westward is seen that of Hyeres; and be^'ond a narrow 
 promontor\' the Golfe de Giens is just visible. The 
 colouring of each of these bays is different. The eastern 
 bay gleams with a soft blue light ; the roadstead of 
 Hyeres is like liquid silver; while the Golfe de Giens 
 
CORKS. 167 
 
 reflects the fierx ijflow of the evening sk\ . \\'e satiate 
 ourselves with tliis feast of colour and then let our eyes 
 rest on the dark green of the distant woods. (Jradualh' 
 a purple sheen spreads over the sea, and now under the 
 ra^•s of the evening sun the lies d'or of Ih'eres shine 
 as though the\- were realh- gold. 
 
 Large (.[uantities of cork are piled up in front of 
 the houses at Bornies. \\ e entered a house in which 
 cork was being cut and watched the work. The man, 
 who received us politeh', was making bottle-corks with 
 the help of a lathe. He fastened angular pieces of cork 
 into the spindle, set it revolving, and cut the cork with 
 a tool resembling a plane. Great practice is required 
 to insert the pieces of cork securely and quickly into 
 the lathe, and to centre them correctly. If the worker 
 be skilled he can make hundreds of corks in the hour, 
 whereas cutting freehand he could scarcel}' bring the 
 number up to a thousand in the day. The sheets of 
 cork have to be scalded in water before they are sliced 
 into angular strips. The^■ swell considerably under this 
 treatment. The longer axis of the bottle corks coincides 
 \\ ith the length of the sheets : the corks must be ima- 
 gined as standing upright in the bark of the tree. 
 
 The scraps which fall from the lathe are b\' no 
 means useless. The^■ ma\' be used in upholstery or, 
 when well charred, ma\' be made into a black colouring 
 matter called "'nigrum hispanicum", or into tooth powder. 
 Pulverized cork, mixed with thickened linseed oil and 
 spread on w ater-j")roof sail-cloth, makes the cork-carpet 
 known as linoleum with which lloors are covered. 
 
168 ST. TROPEZ. 
 
 The universal use of cork as stoppers for bottles 
 does not date further back than the seventeenth century. 
 It coincides with the spread of our narrow necked glass 
 bottles which were manufactured not earlier than the 
 fifteenth centur\'. In the Middle Ages small vessels 
 were made of wood, earthenware or metal and closed 
 with stoppers of the same material, or onh' sealed with 
 wax. The casks were bunged with wooden plugs. The 
 ancients used wooden as well as cork stoppers for their 
 amphorae, and smeared them with a cement made of 
 resin, chalk and oil, or of pitch. More commonh' the 
 openings of these casks were onh' daubed over with 
 gypsum, resin, pitch or wax. Oil was poured on the 
 wine, as is still done in Itah' toda\', to prevent the ac- 
 cess of the air. According to Pliny pieces of cork were 
 used even bv the Romans as floats for fishing nets and 
 as buovs for anchors; and the soles of ladies' shoes were 
 also made of it. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 The Gulf of wSt. Tropez, the Sinus Sambracitanus 
 of the ancients, cuts deeply into the Montagues des 
 Maures. From a distance the houses of St. Tropez on 
 its shore gleam gaih' and the hav looks like an inland 
 sea. Its azure waters are as smooth and clear as a 
 dark sapphire. We look across it to the Montagnes des 
 Maures whose wooded heights stand out sharply from 
 the clear heavens. Eastwards, in the misty distance, 
 the jagged summits of the Esterel close the view, and 
 above them, high in the clouds, float the snowy Alps. 
 
LEGEND OF ST. 'i'R()Pi:Z. 
 
 169 
 
 Here, by this blue bay, once stood Ileraclea Cacabaria. 
 It is said that a temple of Hercules gave its name to the 
 tt)\\n. The district was inhabited hv the Camatullici. 
 Accordin<r to legend the b()d\" of St. Trope/, was 
 stranded at this town in ()(> A. D. Ihider Nero the 
 Saint had occupied high positions. Mis cousin, Salvius 
 Otho, was proclaimed Emperor in ()() A. I). He himself 
 laid aside all his dignities after the apostle Paul had 
 converted him to Christianit\-, and returned to Pisa. 
 Here one da^' Xero decreed that Diana and Apollo were 
 to be worshipped with great theatrical pomp under 
 a brazen canop^•. St. Tropez refused to do so, lie 
 was seized, and at Xero's command tortured and be- 
 headed. His bod\- was cast adrift in an unseaworthA- 
 boat. A dog and a cock were placed in the boat in 
 order to feed on the corpse. But neitlier the dog nor 
 the cock touched the Saint's bod\- ; instead the\' guarded 
 it. An angel alighted on the helm, and steered the 
 vessel safe through the waters to Ileraclea. There the 
 
 Christians, called together h\ the 
 
 crowing of the cock, assembled 
 
 on the shore and received the 
 
 bod\' of the vSaint with great 
 
 honour. — In the 
 
 ninth centur\' old 
 
 Heraclea was des- 
 
 tro\-ed b\ the Saracens 
 
 and onh' ancient walls 
 
 and tombs still show 
 
 where it stood. The 
 
170 CLIMATE OF ST. TRQPEZ. 
 
 present St. Tropez does not date back further than the 
 fifteenth centur^^ It owes its prosperit\' to Genoese 
 famihes who settled here. Numerous watch towers round 
 the town and works of defence on the heights show that 
 the place had freejuenth' to resist pirates and other foes. 
 Toda\' it is protected only hv coast-guards who keep 
 watch upon the hills. Thus do times change. Formerly 
 this town had to repel Corsairs, anxious to pillage it: 
 today it protects itself against smugglers who are onh' 
 too eager to provide for it. 
 
 St. Tropez has become a centre of the cork indus- 
 try; and a great man^' ships are here laden with 
 cork which comes in from all parts of the Montagues 
 des Maures. 
 
 St. Tropez could hardly become a health resort, for 
 it is too much exposed to the winds. The harbour is 
 sheltered from the open sea by a projecting headland; 
 yet the Mistral and the east wind drive the waves of 
 the gulf into it. The curious construction of many of 
 the houses shows that in high seas the water dashes 
 right up to the breakwater on the shore. These houses 
 have no windows below, only small, tightly closing 
 doors, like the base of a lighthouse which has to defy 
 the sea. With the exception of the abovementioned winds 
 this sea-girt range enjoys a ver}' mild climate ; so much 
 so that the well known geologist, Elie de Baumont, has 
 described this spot as the Provence of Provence. The 
 vegetation is luxuriant : Pines and evergreen Oaks clothe 
 the heights and mighty Chestnuts cast their shade upon 
 the slopes. Here and there a Palm stretches its slender 
 
\Tii:X AGNUS CASTUS. 171 
 
 crown above a wall ; but it bears signs of having been 
 lashed bv the winds. Oleander shrubs and Vitex bushes 
 line the banks of the streams. With the loveh- blossoms 
 of the Oleander (jreek countr\ women adorned, and still 
 adorn themselves toda^ . In (jernian\ Oleander leaves 
 are used to decorate dishes, although, as a matter of 
 fact, the milk\- juice of this plant is ver\- poisonous. It 
 was said that the narrow leaflets of the / itcx Ag-/ius 
 rastus (Fig. p. 415) checked sensualit}'. Hence its specific 
 name castus — chaste. Athenian women used to strew 
 their couches with \'itex leaves at the time of the Thes- 
 mophoria, that mysterious festival in honour of the 
 goddess Demeter, trom which all men were excluded. 
 Vestal virgins carried twigs of \^itex in their hands, and 
 Hera is said to have been born under a Vitex bush. 
 The German name of this plant, "Monks' Pepper'", also 
 has reference to the virtues which were ascribed to its 
 spic}' berries in the monasteries. / V/rx A^'nks cas/us 
 appears now to have lost the powers attributed to it in 
 earlier davs: onh' its fruits are still used as pepper in 
 some places. The Oleander has been applied to a much 
 less romantic purpose, for the peasants in the neighbour- 
 hood of Nice use its powdered bark to drive off rats 
 and mice. 
 
 In tlie Hotel Continental at St. Tropez we live in 
 the good old style. Excellent wine is supplied for the 
 benefit of every one. Before helping ourselves we ask 
 our neighbour if we may not pour some out for him, 
 and the waiters would be greath- surprised if asked 
 for a wine card. Salami, olives, sardines and other 
 
172 BOUILLABAISSE. 
 
 things, which have become general in Europe, were 
 served up there as entrees, also sea-urchins, a deHcac\' 
 that 1 had not hitherto seen at an ordinarA' Table 
 d'hote. I willingh' left this tid-bit for others. To me 
 it proved that man is the most wanton of all predaceous 
 animals. Thousands of female sea-urchins are caught, 
 broken open and wasted. The whole bod\" is thrown 
 away and onh' the little bit of roe consumed. Thus 
 countless multitudes are destroyed. I have no desire to 
 acquire a taste for this orange -red, insipid, slim^' stuff: 
 but opinions differ. Our table companions were always 
 thrown into raptures b^' "Bouillabaisse", a dish for which 
 the Provencal longs whenever he is living in an\' other 
 part of France. The hostess tried to ascertain hv the 
 expression on the faces of her guests whether the}' liked 
 the Bouillabaisse, for the proper cooking of this dish 
 is alone sufficient to establish the reputation of an Hotel. 
 As it was put before us this dish consisted of lobsters 
 and fish. Our hostess made no secret of its preparation. 
 She told us that she had first of all mixed together 
 some garlic, laurel-leaves, white pepper and olive-oil 
 and fried them in a casserole : then poured a glass of 
 white wine over this and added the lobsters, fish and 
 sufficient water to cover the whole; then more pepper 
 and salt, and boiled for twenty minutes and lastly 
 finished up with a pinch of saffron. The fish were 
 served up in a deep tureen in their own broth with the 
 addition of some white bread cut up. The Boullabaisse 
 found unanimous approval. The hostess maintained that 
 it was only worth while to prepare it for French people. 
 
LA KOLX. LA (iAKDL KKi:iM:r. 17.^ 
 
 as foreigners gulphed down well and ill cooked dishes 
 with eciuanimit\- : and this was discouraging to a 
 careful house-wife. '1 hen nn neighhour at the table 
 exj^lained. in a lengtlu' speech, that he could not see 
 wh\' one sense should be neglected more than another 
 One person might have a dull palate: another sightless 
 e\'es, or deaf ears. Men who were unable to distinguish 
 between a carp and a turbot. inspired him with no 
 higher respect than those who contused \'an I)\ck with 
 Raphael or (iounod with Wagner I 
 
 Although the food was good the rest of the arrange- 
 ments left something to be desired as regards comfort: 
 so that in spite of the excellent cuisine we longed some- 
 times for other accommodation. 
 
 A tramwaA' now runs between St. Tropez and La 
 Foux, a station on the Sud de la France line. It passes 
 the castle of Bertaud. and near its gates a mighty Pine 
 whose trunk measures quite six yards in circumference. 
 It ma^• well be one of the largest Pine trees in existence, 
 and man\- a vSaracen has camped under its shade. The 
 tree stands in the middle of the Route Nationale and it 
 is much to their credit that the engineers spared it. The 
 tramwa\- continues be\ond La Foux northwards to 
 Cogolin. and thence one can reach the Chausee La 
 (jarde Freinet. The Romans established a military post 
 at this spot to guard the communication between the 
 Sinus Sambracitanus and the Ma Aureliana. which ran 
 through the mountains a little further north. It is a 
 narrow pass between two hills, in which the Moors also 
 entrenched themselves in the Acar (Sod, after thev had 
 
174 FRAXINETUM. — GRIMAUD. 
 
 destroyed St. Tropez. Thev thus commanded both the 
 range and an approach to the sea. The fastness which 
 they built was called "Fraxinetum'', and this name was 
 later on applied to all similar Moorish fortresses. Here 
 thev piled up their stolen treasures before shipping them 
 across the sea to Africa, William I, Count of Aries, 
 with the help of two Provencal noblemen, Bavon and 
 Grimaldi, took the castle by storm in 973. All the 
 Moors who escaped the sword were made slaves, together 
 with the women and children. The fastness was razed 
 and onlv the ruins of a few walls, now covered with 
 Ivy, and a deep cistern cut out of the rock, indicate 
 where it once stood. 
 
 As a reward for his braver^' and in recompense for 
 his services Grimaldi received from William I all the 
 lands which the Moors had held near the Sinus Sam- 
 bracitanus. The ruined castle of Grimaud still rises heaven- 
 wards on the mountain which commands the mouth of 
 the valle^^ It is a reHc of those da\'s. Two towers on 
 the steep slope, joined bv crumbling walls, appear to 
 hang over the precipice; the rest of the fortress is destroy- 
 ed. But below it, although deprived of its protection, 
 the little village of Grimaud still clings to the rocks, 
 framed in luxuriant green. 
 
 Eastward from La Foux the Chemin de fer du Sud 
 follows all the indentations of the coast. Now it hurries 
 towards the sea, and St. Tropez on the opposite coast 
 seems to come nearer and nearer: then it turns landwards 
 again and hugs the Maures range. Soon Ste. Maxime 
 is reached — the place to which Gu}' de Maupassant 
 
Tin-: AIONTAGNKS DES MAURES. 
 
 was so partial. Beyond a tongue of land the Esterel 
 suddenly appears again. The Montagues des Maures 
 come down close to the coast : the woods reach the sea. 
 More and more exuberanth- beautiful 
 do they become as we approach. The 
 Tree Heath (Fig. p. 17^) with its masses 
 of white flowers shines forth from 
 among the Eyergreen Oaks and Mari- 
 time Pines. Everywhere the Arbutus 
 (Fig. p. 3/) spreads out its Laurel-like 
 leaves. Dark Ivy climbs aloft on the 
 trunks, and luxuriant Clematis trails its 
 bright festoons of leaves from tree to 
 tree. This lovely scene tempts us to 
 break our journey here: we alight at 
 La Gaillarde and set out on foot. We 
 follow the shore. The Maritime Pine 
 .v^Q^i,^ almost dips its roots into the waves; often 
 ^^i—^/, . it bends over the water as though to 
 look at its reflected image in the glitter- 
 ing surface. The sea is bordered 
 with silver\- foam and the land with its 
 evergreen fringe. Rugged rocks crop out 
 on the beach and jut forth far into the 
 ilj deep. The Esterel is quite close to us. It 
 shows the same richly varied outline which 
 we admired so from Antibes. This range 
 v;<^^ ot mountains is so limited in area that 
 
 C^^<^' 
 
 Rrica 
 arborea. 
 
 the same heights giye character to the 
 outline from the east and from the west. 
 
176 FREJUS. 
 
 From Antibes when we see the sun sink behuid the 
 Esterel, its summits are veiled in dark blue shadows 
 and its outline shows in bold relief against the 
 evening sky. But here it is bathed in light; the 
 setting sun casts its rays into the valleys making each 
 hill to stand out; gilds the peaks; draws forth blue half- 
 shadows from the depths; illuminates whole villages; 
 throws unaccountable lights into the isolated houses, and 
 fmalh^ tinges everything with a purple glow. Carolus 
 Duran settled at St. Aigulf on this coast, and the place 
 is well calculated to charm an artist's soul with the splen- 
 dour of its colouring. Suddenly the broad valley, which 
 the river Argens flows through in innumerable windings, 
 opens out before us. This valley separates the Mon- 
 tagnes des Maures from the Esterel. The pond of Ville- 
 pey and the meandering river gleam like metal mirrors. 
 In Frejus the evening bells are ringing, and from the 
 opposite shore of the Golfe the lighthouse of St. Raphael 
 flashes forth dimmed by the light of the declining day. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 We are now on classic soil; for Frejus is the old 
 Forum Julii, so named after Julius Caesar. Augustus 
 completed the harbour, which was constructed among 
 the lagunes, and provided the place with a lighthouse. 
 Agrippa built an aqueduct and an amphitheatre. Soldiers 
 of the eighth Legion settled here, and this led to the 
 later name of Colonia Octavianorum. The town grew 
 rapidly in size and importance; it measured five thousand 
 paces in circumference. The harbour was so extensive 
 
FREjLS . \ri 
 
 that in tlio \ ear 31 H. C it was able t(i contain tlie two 
 hundred gallexs wliich Octax iaiuis captured from .Vnton- 
 ius in the battle of Actiuni. What a splendid sight 
 tliat must ha\ e been when the (leet of .\ntonius tilled 
 this harbour, when ]iowertul Roman galle\ s were mirrored 
 in its waters, and tar awa\ \\\) the valle\ the bold arches 
 of the aqueduct extended to tlie distant hills. I'nder 
 the Emperors Frejus remained the most important naval 
 base on that coast: then sad times commenced for this 
 place. The amnis argenteus — the Argens of toda\' — 
 slowh silted up the harbour with mud and eartli. In 
 the tenth centurx' onh small vessels could take refuge 
 here. And in the \ear 'MO the Saracens came and destroxed 
 the fortifications of the town. In the lifteenth ceiUurx' 
 Frejus was burned \>\ Corsairs, and plundered under 
 Charles \' in the sixteenth centurx. The harbour grad- 
 ually disappeared and extensive swamps formed in its 
 place; these filled the neighbourhood with deadb' miasma. 
 At the commencement of the eighteenth centurx' Aubin- 
 Louis Millin describes the place as a picture of miser\ . 
 The streets were empt\-, the houses uninhabited, and the 
 few people who were to be seen had pale, white faces, 
 hollow cheeks and sunken eyes. You might fancx- ^■our- 
 self in a large hospital. Millin writes: — 'A\'e took 
 rooms in the best Inn: it was an uncleanl\- and pestilen- 
 tial house, in w^hich our sojourn was a penance. The 
 rooms were extremeh- dirtw Foul water was given 
 us in unwashed jugs: swarms of flies besieged the food, 
 which was prepared with rancid oil. The midges and 
 gnats which came from the swamps plagued us with 
 
178 FREJUS. 
 
 their bites: and at night we were devoured by equally 
 importunate but more loathsome insects. M^e were irri- 
 tated to fever pitch. Only those who were accustomed 
 to these pests could live here : to us they seemed the 
 greatest evil that human beings could have to endure. 
 We lamented that the thirst for knowledge, which prompt- 
 ed us to visit famous historical towns, had led us to 
 this wretched place, and we wished to leave it as soon 
 as possible". Since then the condition of Frejus has 
 improved. Canals have been made to drain the neigh- 
 bourhood and thus make it more healthy. The town 
 itself has shrunk to barely a fifth of its earlier size, but 
 looks tolerablv pleasant. Anyone expecting to be deeply 
 impressed b\' remains of classic times will be disappointed. 
 Ver^• little is left ; too little to inspire veneration or to 
 be artistically effective. Only the broken arches of the 
 aqueduct out in the fields, overgrown with climbing 
 plants, are beautiful here and there. The river Argens 
 has worked so industrioush' in bringing down fresh depos- 
 its that toda}' Frejus is separated from the sea b)' a 
 broad stretch of sand, and the ruins of the old Roman 
 lighthouse rise from the ground one-and-a-half kilometres 
 from the shore. Thus the ancient glory of Frejus has 
 departed for ever, and what remains of it can in no way 
 be compared with the monuments of Nimes and Aries. 
 But the elevating sentiments inspired b^' classic soil possess 
 us even here. We gaze out over the blue Mediterranean 
 on whose shores grew and throve that might}- civilisation 
 under the dominion of which the entire world bowed down, 
 and we reflect that we are still ruled today b}- those 
 
ST. RAPHAEL. 17^ 
 
 thouii^hts and U'clinn's, coniinoii to luimanit\ , w liicli touiul 
 expression and took shajic in those times. 
 
 Roman villas covered the shore on wliich tlie town 
 of St. Rapliai'l now stands. The Roman Patricians par- 
 ticLilarh' favoured tliis beautitul district. This was tlieir 
 Pro\incia Romana par excellence, the one to which the^' 
 referred whenever tlie\' spoke brieth' of "Provincia"", and 
 it has retained the name of Provence. Knights Templars 
 settled on the shores of St. Raphael after the Romans. 
 and built that scjuare tower wliich still seems to mount 
 guard over the old church. In 1/99 Buonapart landed 
 at this spot on his return from EoA'pt : and it was 
 here also that he left the countr\' in LSI 4 to embark 
 for Elba. 
 
 Curious t\pes are met with among the native popu- 
 lace. This is not surprising since the inhabitants of 
 the upper town are undoubtedh' Saracen, and those of 
 the lower chiefl^■ of Genoese origin, and the\- still hold 
 aloof from each other. 
 
 The statement that Alphonse Karr discovered St. Ra- 
 phael is not stricth' accurate as its long historic past proves, 
 but the fresh impulse which this place received was due 
 to him. He himself settled here and praised the beauties 
 of the situation so highh'. both in speech and writing, 
 that otlier authors and artists soon followed his example. 
 What the\' sought and found here was a tjuiet, secluded 
 spot, where one could enio\' flowers, sunshine and sea 
 without being molested bA' one's fellow men. The\ all 
 fled from the overgrown town of Nice and the formalit\- 
 of Cannes. "If I cared to live in a large town". 
 
180 ST. RAPHAEL. 
 
 Alphonse Karr used to sav, "I would return to Paris". 
 It is cooler liere too in the summer than east of the 
 Esterel, and the sand\' beach is pleasant for bathing; 
 tor this reason St. Raphael is becoming more and more 
 of a summer bathing resort. In the winter it suffers too 
 severeh' from the winds, as we had }'et to discover. 
 On the evening of our arrival the east wind set in; 
 next daA" it blew strongh' and was accompanied by 
 heav^' rain. In such weather as this nothing could be 
 done out of doors, for the wind blew the rain almost 
 horizontalh' through the air. This lasted two whole 
 days, which seemed intolerabh' long. 
 
 Strong east wind is generalh' accompanied hv rain 
 here and is therefore xer\ drear\-. It is very different 
 u'hen the northerl}' Mistral sets in as it is dry and con- 
 sequently more cheerful. This wind sweeps the heavens 
 clear; it blows in gusts, now whistling merrily in the 
 sunshine, now sounding like thunder and rattling about 
 the buildings. The east wind, on the contrary, is steadier, 
 and as it rises and falls its voice is more like a lament, 
 so that at night one seems to hear long-drawn sighs. 
 The second night after our arrival a noisy thunderstorm 
 broke, filling the vallcAS with dull roars and throwing 
 short, quick Hashes over the sea. But when morning 
 dawned the sun streamed brighth' into our rooms. The 
 sea was raging and we went out to watch it dashing 
 against the rocks of the coast. Two red porph^'r^' rocks 
 — known as the Two Lions, "Le lion de terre*' and 
 "Le lion de mer" — are landmarks of St. Raphael, and 
 both mount guard over its shores. The "Sea Lion" 
 
STOKM AT ST. K AIM lAlOL. 
 
 181 
 
 has ventured a short wdv into the sea : the "Land Lion" 
 is stationed on the beach. There they stand like apo- 
 cahptic animals, and have resisted from time imme- 
 morial the erosive action of the waves. The sea was 
 now dashino- against these rocks with iurv, rolling its 
 waves over them with deafening din and throwing up 
 foam and sprav. High above in the blue sky countless 
 sea-gulls were soaring. It is a pleasure to watch these 
 brave birds cleaving the air with the long sweep of 
 their powerful wings. The\' sail against the wind, or 
 hover in one place and shoot downward to the sea to 
 seize their preA'. Hien the\' vanish with it into the 
 distance, or settle on the 
 heaving waves — one '^^ ■ ^^ 
 
 white spot more vcrc 
 
 amongst the white ' ^^ ^^^-^ 
 
 crests. Suddenh 
 awav out at sea 
 a shoal of do! 
 phins leaps out 
 of the water. ThcA' raise 
 their heads lirst, turn a 
 somersault in the air, 
 and then dive down again 
 into the deep. The\' add 
 a touch of humour to the 
 grand spectacle : thev are 
 the clowns of the sea! — The 
 which follows the shore cast\ 
 from St. Raphael leads past country .</i;iosa. 
 
182 ST. RAPHAEL. 
 
 houses which bear many well-known names on their gates. 
 Here we see "Maison Close", that house so shut in which 
 Alphonse Karr built for himself in order to live secluded. 
 Charles Gounod sought retirement in "Oustalet dou Ca- 
 pelan", and an inscription records that : — "L' illustre maitre, 
 Charles Gounod, composa Romeo et Juliette a 1' Oustalet 
 dou Capelan, au printemps de 1866." Jules Barbier, his 
 librettist, who lived near b^', added to it : "Hie divum 
 Romeo scripsit Gounod meus 1866. Ingenio haud amicitia 
 impar". Gounod was fond of staying at St. Raphael; 
 ^'I have lighted upon the Bay of Naples here, (so he 
 used often to say) wdth the Campagna of Rome in the 
 background". 
 
 Is the position of St. Raphael realh* as beautiful 
 as Gounod maintains ? I cannot say so, although I will 
 not deny to this place a peculiar charm of its own. 
 I m^'self miss at St. Raphael the full view of the Esterel 
 range ; nor do I feel sufficienth' recompensed for this 
 want by the uniform outline of the Montagues des 
 Maures, or hx the broad valle\' of the Argens which 
 Gounod compared to the Campagna of Rome. I would 
 rather follow the example of Carolus Duran and settle 
 on the other side of the valley, at St. Aigulf b}' the 
 wooded shore, whence at eventide the jagged Esterel 
 may be seen aglow with purple. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 St. Raphael forms an excellent starting point for 
 excursions into the Esterel range ; and truh' these moun- 
 tains are worthy- of a visit; they are among the gems 
 
NALKSCLRK. 1S.^> 
 
 ot tlie Ki\i(.Ma. The Esterel owes its picturestiue clKirin 
 to the porpln r\ wliich crops up in bare, rock\' masses. 
 Round these pori)h\ritic and other igneous rocks there 
 is shale. The Esterel range is isolated trom the Alps, 
 and h\ the vallex ot the Argens also from the Mon- 
 tagues des Nhiures. As late as the beginning of last 
 centur\ it was liardh" safe to venture into tlie Esterel : 
 now one ma\' roam about there in greater safet\' than 
 in tlie outskirts of man\- large towns. Our lirst visit 
 was to the highest point in the range, the Mt. Mnaigre, 
 whose summit rises 2,000 feet above sea level. \\'e hoped 
 from this heiglit to overlook the whole Esterel range 
 and intended to form our plans there for further excur- 
 sions. We left St. Raphael as morning dawned. The 
 road led northwards and shortlv reached Valescure. There, 
 in the cool woods on the slopes, Roman families used to 
 spend the summer wlien the heat of the da^• in Forum 
 Julii became intolerable. 'A'allis curans", that vale wliich 
 brings health, must, as its name implies, have enjo^'ed the 
 reputation of a particularlv salubrious resort. This old 
 repute might still be taken advantage of toda\' and new 
 inhabitants be attracted hither b\' a name so full of promise. 
 In Valescure we have roads read^' laid out, "(irand Boule- 
 vards" with high-sounding names; woods changed into 
 parks: large I hotels awaiting guests: music pavilions read\' 
 for musicians. Still visitors do not appear. And where are 
 tlie millionaires to come from who are to cover the whole 
 Riviera from Toulon to \'entimiglia with Mllas for the 
 ad\antage and profit of all those speculators in land .' 
 Directh' the construction of the Sud de la France railwa\- 
 
184 VALESCURE. 
 
 was decided upon, joint stock companies bought up ever\- 
 spot on the shore commanding beautiful views, and all 
 points on the heights which were remarkable either for 
 their healthy position, odour of Pines, or an\ other 
 advantage. In St. Aigulf too, across there in the Alon- 
 tagnes des Maures, the woods are alread\' divided into 
 lots and intersected b^• "Grand Boulevards", and not onh- 
 embellished with fine names but also provided with lamps. 
 It is true that the lamps are not glazed and that not one 
 of them has ever been lighted; some of them have been 
 knocked over bv storms and some hv human hands, and 
 now lie rusting, a sad picture of deca\' where life has 
 never been. Amonpf them the largest and most strikinef 
 notice boards stand forth bearing coloured inscriptions 
 and plans with information about the sale of land plots. 
 Will Valescure ever prosper? It is quite likeh' ; it 
 already shows signs of animation. "La nature severe et 
 riante, I'odeur des pins agreable et salutaire", (thus Stephen 
 Liegeard extols the place), have enticed the artiste. wSuzanne 
 Reichemberg of the "Comedie Francaise", and the no 
 less renowned singer of the Parisian "'Opera Comique", 
 Miolan Carvalho, to settle here. The place is pleasant, 
 surrounded as it is b}' evergreen woods, with a cheerful 
 outlook upon the sea and over the mountains. We breath- 
 ed more freely when we had left these "Grand Boule- 
 vards" behind and were passing through a part of the 
 country less disfigured by speculators. The sun rose in a 
 blue - grey mist like a red. ravless orb ; then it came 
 forth from the mist and shone brightly in the cloudless 
 sky, and the earth seemed to be flooded with light. 
 
WUCJDS OF THE ESTL:R 1:L. 1S5 
 
 Soon we wore walkino- in those extensive woods wliich 
 cover nearh the whole Esterel range. They were formerh' 
 much damaged b\ iires and the pedestrian met with 
 charred skeletons of trees instead of green, leaf\' crowns. 
 Xow the woods have become State propert\' and thrive 
 under the most careful attention. "Flu' dark Maritime 
 Pines (P. Piinis/rr) predominate: their crowns are often 
 so close together that scarceh' a vax of sunshine can 
 penetrate to the soil. Excellent roads lead through the 
 woods, and the summit of the mountain can be reached 
 b\- well-kept patlis. Strangeh- enough some of these 
 roads end abruptl\- when the^' reach the boundar\- of 
 tlie mountains. The departement of '"Woods and Forests" 
 ends here and that of the ..Ponts et Chaussees" begins. 
 These two departments, so it would seem, do not ahva^'s 
 work hand in hand. The wa\' to the Mont Mnaigre 
 was not hard to find. At first we saw the mountain in 
 front of us. and in tlie woods we had onh- to follow the 
 road and. when other roads crossed tliis. to keep to the 
 north-west. It wound up among the hills. Generalh' it 
 was hidden in the wood and dark masses of foliage 
 confined our outlook on all sides: then it went up a 
 steep slope and our e\-es could range over the tops of 
 tlie trees awa\- to distant \alle\'s and mountains. But 
 not a house was to be seen, and nowhere did rising smoke 
 betrav a hidden hut: nought but solitude. Xor did we 
 meet a single wanderer on our long walk : we were 
 tjuite alone — almost inicannih' alone - — in tlie endless 
 woods. After two hours we reached a human habitation, 
 the Ranger's-liouse of Malpa\ . "Maou pa\ s" — bad neigh- 
 
186 MALPAY. 
 
 boLirhood — as it is called in provencal, in remembrance 
 of the da^•s when it was not safe to travel here. 
 
 The Forester's wife was evidenth' pleased at having 
 someone to converse with, and, while we breakfasted, 
 gave us accurate information about the neighbourhood. She 
 pointed out to us, towards the east, a stretch of the Roman 
 road which can be overlooked from here. The road connected 
 Rome with Gaul and ended at Arelate, the present 
 Aries, whence the 'A"ia Domitia'' led to Spain. There 
 were two Roman roads called "Aurelian", which led 
 through the Esterel. The older one followed the coast 
 from Cannes and turned inland, up a vallev, at the most 
 southerh' boss of the Esterel, reaching Frejus in a westerh- 
 direction. Later the Romans made a second road which 
 ran straight over the mountains, corresponding more or 
 less to the present high-road between Frejus and Cannes. 
 It was a piece of this road which we were now over- 
 looking. In an unfrequented ravine in Malpa\' there still 
 lie ancient porph\rv pillars — unfinished work of the 
 Romans. But the purplish-red stone is now covered with 
 a thick, black crust. In this district the names of parts 
 of the coast, and some of the mountains, still recall that 
 of the Roman road. The shore near the spot where the 
 earlier of the two Roman roads turned inland is called 
 "Plage d'Aurele", and the porph\'ritic mass which rises 
 above it is the "Pic d'Aurele". Later on the Esterel 
 range was so cut off from all civilization, so withdrawn 
 from new influences, that up to the present dav the 
 population call a still used stretch of the older road "lou 
 camin Aurelian". 
 
MAcn'IS ()\ THE MONT VINAIGRE. 
 
 187 
 
 At Maljiay we leave the broad hioh\va\- and follow 
 the foot-path in an easterly direction. This winds up 
 the south slope of Mont Mnaigre. I low comes the 
 mountain b}- this singular name ? From the sour wine 
 whi^ch used to grow on its Hanks. No traces of former 
 vine-culture remain however, but instead we find on 
 the slopes the most splendid Maquis that it is possible 
 to imagine. Tree Heaths (Fig. p. 175), Broom (Fig. p. .^<)5), 
 Pistachias (Fig. p. 349), Euphorbias I (Fig. p. 181), As- 
 phodels (Fig. p. 49); all these bloom | at the same time 
 and fill the air with spic\- ±rag- 
 
 Provencal spring is 
 
 must hasten before 
 
 comes. It -^^ seems 
 
 ture wished ^^ to 
 
 spring festi- 
 val here ; and 
 
 unconsciously 
 
 a feeling of spring pene- H "^"^^1^ v^^'//;] 
 
 trates the soul of the 
 
 wanderer. He forgets all past 
 
 things: he feels as though he 
 
 could begin life anew, ^...j^^ss-^. V" 
 
 :A 
 
 ranee. For the 
 
 short, and plants 
 
 the drought 
 
 as , though Na- 
 
 celebrate a 
 
 -^/i 
 
 -=^^^\. 
 
 And wh}- should 
 
 he not? Is not 
 
 the earth 
 
 verA- 
 
 old, and does she 
 
 not awaken to new life ever)- 
 
 spring? How sweetlv the 
 
 Gdloctites 
 tomentosa. 
 
188 MAQUIS ON THE MONT VINAIGRE. 
 
 Heaths smell of Almond! Every breath of wind wafts 
 their perfume towards us. We had hardh' noticed this 
 odour before, but we had also never before seen such 
 a mass of Erica blossom. Now the air is permeated 
 bv a sweet honey-scent: it is emitted by a small Spurge 
 (Euphorbia spinosa, Fig. p. 181). This plant has no 
 striking flowers and must therefore make special efforts 
 not to remain unnoticed in the neighbourhood of such 
 rich colouring. Numbers of bees visit it, while the gay 
 buttertlies flit round other more showy flowers. One 
 would not mind being a butterfly or a bee amid such 
 surroundings! From the mass of blossoms the dark 
 Arbutus (Fig. p. 37), dwarf Aleppos, Evergreen Oaks 
 (Fig. p. 359) and prickly Junipers (J. Oxyccdrus, 
 Fig. p. 245) stand out. And, wherever the smallest space 
 remains unoccupied at this rich feast of Nature, the 
 Asphodels {Asphodelus alhus) crowd in with their spikes 
 of white flowers. They too wish to have their share of 
 the light, warmth and nourishment which is here so 
 lavishly dispensed. 
 
 We now ascend slowly, stopping before each flower 
 to watch the bees at work. At length, after an hour's 
 walk, we reach the summit. A whole world lies at our 
 feet ! Before us the green Esterel with deep valleys 
 and steep heights, where, from among the foliage, the 
 jagged porphyry rocks jut heavenwards. To the west 
 is the plain of Frejus, streaked by its silver stream; 
 beyond this the Montagues des Maures with their dark 
 woods, and then all the bays of the coast far awa}' to 
 St. Tropez. To the north are the limestone Alps, a 
 
SUMMIT (JK Till': MONT \IN AK iKlO. 1H9 
 
 ]iearh- i^rcx- hue. To the east the Maritime Alps with 
 their snow-chid peaks: in the foreground rich, irrcen 
 countr\' witli briglit towns and vilhiges. and then again 
 the coast which fades awa\- in mist at Bordighera, 
 (,^uite near is Cannes, and in front of it lie the lies de 
 Lerins. Projecting far into the sea is the narrow Cap 
 d'Antihes: and linalU to the south, stretching awa^■ to 
 the horizon, the boundless expanse of the sea. 
 
 The air was so still up here today tiiat the lonely 
 Cork Oak. which grows on the top, was able to bask 
 in the sun. Even this unfortunate tree had been depriv- 
 ed of its protecting cork laver, and in this stripped 
 condition it is obliged to det\' the Mistral. Amid the 
 peaceful scenes which surrounded us, this bare tree was 
 like a false note in the harmon^•. 
 
 The road, which we had left at Malpa}', continues 
 in a straight line from the foot of the Mt. Vinaigre and 
 soon joins the main-road from Frejus to Cannes. If you 
 follow this to the east ^•ou shorth' reach a group of 
 houses, the Auberge des Adrets and the station of the 
 (jendarmerie. The name of this Inn was once in 
 everA'one's mouth in Paris, when the famous actor, 
 Frederic Lemaitre, appeared at the Ambigu theatre in 
 a traged\', the scene of which was laid in an ''Auberge 
 des Adrets". Towards the middle of last centur^• all 
 visitors to Cannes, who were in search of sensation, made 
 excursions into the Esterel to see the rooms in the 
 Auberge des Adrets in which a certain Monsieur Germeuil 
 was murdered, or rather was not murdered. For apart 
 from the (.|uestion as to whether the stor\- has an^• basis 
 
 8* 
 
190 AUBERG E PES ADRETS. 
 
 of fact, the plav did not deal with this Auberge, but, 
 as the text clearly states, with an Inn of the same name 
 on the road between Grenoble and Chamberv. Georges 
 Sand was among the sensation-seeking visitors who came 
 hither from Cannes in the \'ear 18()8. At that time the 
 inhabitants of the house were very indignant if an\' one 
 began to enquire about this Monsieur (jermeuil : tlieA- 
 thought that the\' were being accused of tlie murder. It is 
 certain, however, that some ^-ears before the neighbourhood 
 of that Auberge des Adrets was of evil repute. All 
 those criminals, who had succeeded in escaping from the 
 Galleys of Toulon, sought refuge in the inaccessible 
 valleys and ravines of the Esterel. The\' used to wa\"- 
 lay travellers not far from this Auberge at a spot 
 where the road is shut in and commanded hv the sur- 
 rounding heights. "When we drove past", writes Horace 
 Benedict de Saussure, "the courier from Rome, who was 
 travelling with us, pointed out to us a battered trunk 
 which w^as still lying by the road side ; it had belonged 
 to a traveller who had been robbed a few da\s previ- 
 ously". But when in 1822 Gotthilf Ileinrich Schubert, 
 "Professor der Naturwissenschaften" at Erlangen, "with 
 the housekeeper who usually accompanied the old dreamer 
 as general manager and adjutant", passed through this 
 same place, the state of things had already improved. 
 A Gendarmerie had been established at the Inn, and 
 Schubert found only an old woman and two children 
 in it. While the travellers were refreshing them- 
 selves, the old woman spoke of the notorious robberies. 
 "If only one of those robbers would turn up here again"". 
 
FROM MA LFAY TO AG AY. 191 
 
 she said, "our irendarms would liave an opportunity of 
 sliowinLi' that the^ are worth their keep". Since the 
 railwa\ has connected Frejus and Cannes this road has 
 fallen into disuse, and hi<rhwa\'men would no lont^cr be 
 able to g-et a living on it. Rut it is obvious that the 
 Inn was originalh built with a view to defence. The 
 walls are iinusualh thick, and the windows o1 the 
 lower store\- are provided with iron bars. The traveller 
 used to be lirst well scrutinised through an opening in 
 the oak door, before he was admitted ; oblique loop- 
 holes in the inner walls are directed towards the door. 
 The house is, in fact, like a fortress and could only be 
 captured b\' a regular siege. But now the door stands 
 wide open and little children play about in front. 
 
 We turned back to Malpa\' and there chose a road 
 which led south-eastwards to Aga\'. ^^'e soon reached 
 the X'allon de la Cabre. Here, on ever\' slope, the 
 Laurustinus ( }'ihiiniu)u Ti'nus, Fig. p. 411) displa\s its 
 cor^ lubs of white flowers. Like the Tree Heath, this 
 shrub has a smell of Almond, or rather both these 
 plants, as a chemist learned in the subject of volatile oils 
 informed me, possess the same aroma of anisaldehyd. 
 Next we find the tangled Ilonevsuckle (Lonicera iniplcxa, 
 Fig. p. 277), Hu e\ergreen climber which is one of the charac- 
 teristic plants of the Mac[uis. Its elongate, reddish-yellow 
 perfumed tlowers form terminal whorls. In appearance 
 the plant is so like our garden IIone\suckle that we 
 welcome this more southern species here as an old friend. 
 The blue Iris ( Jn's •^rrtiia/iica) grows right out onto the 
 trodden pathwa\ . Fhc Poet's Narcissus (j\ . pocticiis) 
 
192 FROM MALPAY TO AGAY. 
 
 peeps at us with its bright eyes from the undergrowth. 
 Long-stalked Tulips (Tulipa Clusiana, Fig. p. 407) greet 
 us from a distance with their red and white perianth. The 
 violet corymbs of the Candytuft (Ihcris uiuhcllata), 
 surprise us by their beauty ; we had hitlierto seen this 
 lovely plant onh' in gardens at home. Presently we 
 gather Op/irvs araiiifcra, that remarkable Orchid with 
 its spider-shaped flower, and to this we add its bee-shaped 
 sister-flower Ophrys apifcra. We were particularly pleased 
 with the rare Limodoriim ahorfivitni, a leafless Orchid 
 bright violet in all its parts. We were soon laden with 
 big bunches of flowers. Suddenly we come across a 
 boulder of porphyry in the middle of the path. It looks 
 top-heavy and leans over the stream as though it were 
 about to fall in. The peasants have named it "Pigeon- 
 nier", the Dovecot. There are other fantasticalh' shaped 
 rocks along the road : sometimes they seem to block the 
 valley, and only when we reach the river of Agay do they 
 stand back in a wide semicircle. We followed this river 
 to its mouth. Shattered and jagged, and glowing in the 
 red light the "Castell d'Agay" looks down upon the sea. 
 Like the teeth of a gigantic saw these rocks project in a 
 long line against the sky. We rested h\ the loveh' ba\' 
 of Agay, with its setting of red porph\'r\'. This place is 
 ten kilometres distant from St. Raphael on the Mediter- 
 ranean Railway which follows the coast to avoid the 
 mountains. 
 
 Blue porphyry is quarried not far from AgaA\ on 
 the road to St Raphael. Large blocks are blasted from 
 the mountain side and cut into slabs and cubes, and the 
 
BLUE PORi'liVRY. 
 
 193 
 
 Irafjments arc ' i^i 
 turned to account for road- 
 niaking. Tlie whole shore 
 is littered with blue porphyry. 
 / and numerous work- 
 men are bus\- load- 
 ing- ships with it. 
 I'he porph\r\- of the 
 Esterel is a quartz porpliyry 
 which has crystals, or crystalline 
 o-rains, of quartz and felspar imbedded in 
 a uniform matrix of the same substance, which 
 however are not distinguishable to the naked 
 eye. The felspar is generally pinkish, but 
 the red colouring of the whole stone is produc- 
 ed chiefly by oxide of iron which is distributed 
 in the form of fine dust through the matrix. 
 In the blue, and other brightly coloured por- 
 phyr\-, combinations of protoxide of iron have 
 replaced the peroxide. The blue porphyry is 
 much valued for road-making, and it is exten- 
 I sivelv worked here. Opposite the quarry a 
 •■ tongue of land, "Le Piton du Drammont", pro- 
 iects into the sea. Here, on steep rocks, stands 
 a high lighthouse. It warns sailors at a great 
 ■ distance of the danger of this rocky coast. The 
 
194 MALINFERNET. 
 
 bav of Agar, which in calm weather is quite empty, is 
 often full of ships in stormv weather. They wait here 
 under the shelter of the mountains for a favourable 
 wind. In Roman times the port of Agathon saved many 
 a vessel from destruction. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Malinfernet is considered one of the marvels of the 
 Riviera: it is a fair\' tale in stone. There is a road to 
 it from Aga^•, and it is a three hours" drive from St. 
 Raphael. We preferred the foot path from Le Trayas 
 station which we reached b^■ rail in half an hour. Here 
 we at once crossed the line and climbed up the western 
 slope of the mountain which rose before us. We wander 
 through Maquis almost more luxuriant than what we had 
 seen in other places in the Esterel. W^e are almost 
 stupified by the honev-scent of the Euphorbias (Fig. p. 181). 
 Wide tracts are yellow with the large flowered Caly- 
 cotojyie spinosa (Fig. p. 61). The Cistuses (C. albidus 
 Fig. p. 83) are just beginning to open their large red blossoms. 
 Thev smoothe out their crumpled petals, and attract 
 butterflies by the tender charm of their colour. We do not 
 gather any of these flowers, for they are too fugacious ; 
 the gentlest breath of wind blows away their petals. 
 What a profusion of ga^- butterflies animates the hill- 
 side ! Flowers and butterflies are naturally associated. 
 Antkocharis Eupheiioides (Fig. p. 195), a butterfly rare else- 
 where, is almost common here. It resembles our Orange- 
 tip, but is sulphur coloured instead of white. The same 
 
.malin1'"i:rxi-:t. 
 
 It llics (^ 
 
 oraiiii^e spots atlorn tlir front wino-s ^ , 
 
 restlessly and swifth' through the air. \ j //y^k 
 Thais Polvxoia (i'^ig. p. l'>5). 
 whose brownv ^■ello\v winirs are 
 spotted with red and blue and liave 
 a dark, scolloped edge, is almost as ^cT-Ls:. 
 active. It is like a harlecjuin, particoloured 
 and tringed. The Swallow tails hover over us in all 
 directions. Soon we reach the Col Lentisque on which 
 grow many Cork Oaks. Several paths intersect here; 
 we chose the one which turns to the right, cross the 
 
 pass and begin slowly to ascend a wooded valley 
 
 the "Ravin"" of the stream Escalle. Beautiful Ilolh" trees 
 {Ilex Aquijoliiiiii) are conspicuous in the luxuriant thicket. 
 Here the}' gro\v to fine trees, while in the woods of 
 Germany we see them only as bushes. Germans call 
 the Holly "Stecheiche" because its rigid, coriaceous 
 leaves resemble those of the Evergreen Oak. Chamisso 
 noticed that only the leaves on the lower branches of 
 the Holly are provided with sharp prickles, and that 
 the higher ones are almost unarmed ; for the\' no longer 
 squire to be protected against the attacks of 
 animals. The path turned suddenly west- 
 ward, and we found our- 
 selves at the entrance of 
 the Malinfernet. Now we 
 see all the red rocks standing 
 out from the dark wood ; here 
 glowing in the sunshine and there 
 slirouded in the deep shadows of 
 
 Thais Polyxcn 
 
196 MALIXFERNET. 
 
 the mountains. As we advance, their grouping changes: 
 some vanish, others come into view in an almost end- 
 less succession. And a clear stream flows through the 
 dale, at one time rushing noisily along, then genth' mur- 
 muring, then forming a boisterous cascade. In certain 
 spots it is quite concealed b\' the green foliage of the 
 trees: in other places it lies open again and brightly 
 mirrors the sIca'. And then these wondrous rocks ! Here 
 we seem to see a spire like that of a gothic cathe- 
 dral, adorned with carved flowers and animals and all 
 sorts of arabesques : there again a fort with moat and 
 turrets, or an organ with giant pipes : here a slender 
 column, there an angular cr\'stal : here again a statue on 
 lofty pedestal. Is that not the God Osiris enthroned upon 
 these rocks .-' He bears in his hands, as sceptres, two young 
 Pine trees. At the entrance of this gorge crouches a Sphinx 
 in readiness to make a spring. And }onder by the distant 
 clifl" we seem to see a wild hunting scene. The phantom 
 quarr}' overtops the trees, as if turned to stone in its last 
 struggles. Nature has given free scope to her constructive 
 genius. Her creative forces have run riot. And, as if half 
 ashamed of this exuberance, she has carefully concealed 
 the valley between lofty mountains. In fact the Malinfernet 
 probably remained unknown till December 1851, after the 
 napoleonic coup d'etat when political refugees concealed 
 themselves here to escape the pursuit of their enemies. 
 
 CHAPTER Vn. 
 
 Towards evening we again walked out onto the 
 beach of St. Aigulf. We wished once more to behold 
 
SUNSET AT ST. AIGULF. 197 
 
 the l--sterel rano-o sj^lowiiii^r in the light of the setting sLin. 
 It was a brilliant evening, still and mild, one of those 
 evenings whieh awaken feelings of happiness in the 
 human soul. Xot a breath of air stirred the leaves on 
 the trees. 1 )ark clouds, surrounded b\- golden ra^•s, were 
 reflected in the lake of \'illepa^^ b'rom the thicket by 
 the shore birds tlew up. friglitened at our approach. '^Fhey 
 rose into the air and seemed to trace dark streaks across 
 the bright evening sky. The clouds in the west assumed 
 a crimson hue, and the water, too, flushed with their 
 reflected light. It looked strangely like a lake of blood, 
 and the dark reed thicket bordered it with black. We 
 continued our walk to the beach. Soon the western sky 
 was ablaze and the Montagues des Maures showed like 
 a giant in the lier\' glow. The trees of the forest looked 
 black against the bright background, as though their 
 outlines were traced with crayon. Then the sky paled. 
 On the glittering waves of the sea the white ra\s of 
 the first stars began to mix with the red afterglow. 
 When we reached the beach it was alread\' so dark 
 that we could no longer distinguish the outline of the coast. 
 The skA- was strewn with stars and seemed to scatter 
 innumerable lights upon the sea. We listened to the 
 surging and sighing of the waves and wondered why 
 this land-encircled sea fore\er makes its plaint. Is it 
 grief for all the suffering which takes place along its 
 shores? This spot also is called after the Saint who 
 was martvred on the lies de Lerins. v^everal times we 
 seemed to hear footsteps, but it was only a ripe tir-cone 
 falling to the ground, or a wave, larger than usual. 
 
198 LE TRAYAS. 
 
 rolling up the beach and babbling back to the sea. The 
 silvery crescent of the young moon hung above the tree 
 tops. The lighthouses of St. Raphael and of Drammont 
 shone out clearl}^ in the east; and the Phare de Camarat 
 flashed forth at intervals, as though opening and closing 
 its great fiery eye. Now the fishing smacks are lighted 
 by their flaring torches, burnt to aid them in their e[uest. 
 The flickering flames cast long, shimmering beams upon 
 the waves. Suddenh' a barque, with outspread sails, 
 loomed up huge and ghost-like before us. It concealed 
 the stars, forming a black spot on the sparkling dome 
 of heaven. This vessel vanished as quickh' as it had 
 come, noiseless and m\sterious, like a phantom ship. 
 
 chaptp:r VIII. 
 
 Not far from the station of Le Trayas a bright little 
 house peeps forth from the dark green of the trees. 
 Notices at the station describe it as "Hotel du Tra^■as 
 et Restaurant de la Reserve". The place is so beauti- 
 fully situated in the wood, among red rocks, that we 
 determined to sta\- here awhile. Thus the next dav found 
 us again at Le Tra\'as station with our luggage. We 
 enquired the wa^ to the Hotel, and a dog, which was 
 close at hand, was pointed out to us with tlie remark: — 
 "You need onh- follow him: he waits here for visitors'". 
 The dog had approached us, when we stepped from the 
 train laden with hand luggage, and looked at us intelli- 
 gently. It was a large, black pointer with long, silky 
 coat. We walked to the exit: the dop- hastened in front 
 
LE TRAYAS. IW 
 
 of us, looking" rouiul li\'i[uentl\' and \\u«;"ginir his tail. 
 I \c led us aloui'' the path b\ the line, and up into the 
 wood. I'or one miiuite he disappeared: it was to visit a 
 small h-ish terrier in a forester's house near b\', perhaps 
 to inform him that strancrers had arrived. ^Fliis Httle 
 friend returned with him to the patli. evidenth' to look 
 at us, and then went back, hi a ijuarter of an hour we 
 reached the hm, a modest building, but with a fair-sized 
 refreshment-room nearh- all ghiss. Apparenth' the refresh- 
 ment department of the I h'ltel was more patronised than 
 its dwehing rooms, and thus this glass hall was the most 
 frequented part of the building. The dog stopped before 
 the front door and barked. It was not an ordinar\' bark, 
 but subdued, long-drawn sounds following rapidh' upon 
 each other, some^^•hat between a bark and a howl. Then 
 the bus\- host, with his whole famih', hurried out of the 
 house and offered us their services. We found the rooms 
 ver\- small, but not uncomfortable; and on the terrace it 
 was delightful in such loveK', warm weather as we were 
 having. Tlie house stands close to the sea on a por- 
 ph\r\' rock, and commands an extensive view along the 
 coast, past masses of red porph\ r\- and dark green 
 heights awa\- to C'annes, tlie lies de Lerins and the 
 gleaming snows of the .\lps. In the foregroimd is the 
 shore, of a reddish hue. and weathered into sharp inlets 
 and caves: to the north, innnediateh' behind the house, 
 rises the Pic d'Aurele: to the west the landscape is termin- 
 ated b\- tlie might\' rock-mass of Cap Roux. 
 
 Man\ strangers come here from Cannes, but the}' 
 remain onl\' a few liours to rest and eat "Bouillabaisse" 
 
200 BASHING BY NIGHT. 
 
 in the refreshment room, or o^'sters and lobsters in 
 the "Reserve". Now and again an enthusiastic angler 
 makes a stay of a few days here, as fish are said to 
 abound along this rocky coast and the fisherman has 
 ample opportunity for practising his ingenuity and 
 adroitness. Fishing at night with lights is particularly 
 exciting^ and recjuires, as here practised, much skill. One 
 must have sailed with the fishermen to realize this. 
 
 The sea was so calm and inviting that we arranged 
 with a fisherman to take us out with him one evening. 
 It began to get dark soon after we left the shore. There 
 was no moon in the sk)', but innumerable stars whose 
 number appeared continually to increase. The\' were 
 reflected in the water on which we floated. The moun- 
 tain grew gradualh' less distinct, and was soon no more 
 than a dark, starless shadow on the sky-line. It was 
 cjuiet on the sea ; we could hear only the soft ripple of 
 the waves against the boat and the rhythmic splash of 
 the oars. But the land breeze bore the sounds of the 
 shore across the sea. We heard from the distance the 
 loud concert of the tree frogs and the shrill chirping 
 of the cricket. The breeze also wafted towards us the 
 odours given out by the resinous Pine woods and the 
 aromatic Maquis. The lighthouses, near and far, shone 
 out on the shore like large stars. We abandoned our- 
 selves entirely to the enjoyment of this scene, and 
 inhaled the balm\^ air with delight. One of the fishermen 
 now bent over the edge of the boat to light the fire. 
 He fastened an iron brazier to a hook at the bow, 
 having first filled it with the resinous wood of the x\leppo 
 
FISHING BY NIGHT. 
 
 201 
 
 Pine. This burns u}-) with a crackling sound and Hares 
 like a torch. The light penetrates far down into the 
 sea, while the sky above appears to remain quite black. 
 We were gliding over rocks on which marine algae 
 tormed veritable fairy gardens. Here there were broad 
 leaves united into rosettes, there long, streaming ribbons, 
 like flowing hair; and there again roundish forms like 
 ^ — ^-.-.ry^ mussels. While, in be- 
 / / '^ tween, bright sea ane- 
 
 / ' _ ■ s mones with radiating 
 
 } ' " ' i^^^ tentacles , red starfish 
 
 '^ ''/y^_^/ ^vith outstretched 
 arms, and ^^prickh- sea ur- 
 chins seemed 
 to form the 
 dark spots 
 on a bripfht 
 /^" (Nj^^^ carpet. Small 
 lish fled in ter- 
 ror on all sides; the 
 larger ones followed 
 ir boat in shoals, as 
 )ugh fascinated by the 
 light. One of the fish- 
 ermen stands in the 
 bow of the vessel and 
 noks down into the 
 a three-pronged harpoon 
 A b\' a long cord and 
 he pours a few drops 
 
 water. lie holds 
 in his hand, fastened 
 readv to be thrown. Xow 
 
202 LE TRAYAS. 
 
 of oil on the water, to calm the surface, which is 
 ruffled by the breeze. The oars are at rest. Suddenly 
 the harpoon shoots through the deep and impales a 
 fish with its barbed prongs; the fish is drawn up struggl- 
 ing and cast into the boat. Much skill and practice 
 is required for this kind of fishing. It is necessary 
 to take into account not only the motion of the fish, 
 but also the refraction of light by the water, which mis- 
 leads the eye as to the real position of the fish. We 
 gave up the fishing. This one victim satisfied us. Slowly 
 our fire died out and we again glided peacefully over 
 the wide sea sprinkled with silver stars. 
 
 Le Travas is completelv sheltered from the Mistral : 
 Cap Roux wards it off with its broad back. And while the 
 streets of Cannes and Nice are enveloped in thick clouds 
 of dust, there is not a breath of air here, and one can 
 sit and sun oneself comfortably in the open air in front 
 of the house. The east wind is what w^e have to fear, 
 for it blows with full force here. It rushes straight upon 
 the mountain which bars its way, rebounds from the 
 high rocks and sweeps round them with howling rage. 
 The sea seems as though it would flee in terror 
 over the solid land, but the foaming waves break help- 
 lessly upon the un^'ielding rocks. They surge about in 
 the caves, seeking an outlet upwards, and strike with 
 such violence against the roof that the whole shore re- 
 verberates. There is no question then of sleep at night 
 in the fittle house, and if you at last doze off it is only 
 to dream of horrors and to awaken suddenly in fear and 
 trembling. Even then there is no dust on the porphyry 
 
''CASTOR". 2i):> 
 
 roiids ol the Kstercl, and in a liouse turtluT Ironi the 
 shore, and more sheltered. man\- consunijit'ne patients 
 would be better off in sprinir tlian in the resorts filled 
 with limestone dust. But it is trequentK' cold e\en here 
 in winter, and this accounts tor many sjiecialh' delicate 
 plants being absent from the llora. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 We were particularh' desirous of making the ascent 
 of Cap Roux, the '"Grand Pic" of the Esterel, from this 
 spot. At the same time we wished to visit the "Sainte 
 Beaume d'Honorat''. and entjuired the wa\' to it. The 
 landlord offered us his dog as guide — the same dog 
 which had recei\cd us at the station. vSo "'Castor'' u-as 
 called. We had alread\' become better ace|uainted with 
 him, and hv remembering him at meals had won oiu" 
 way to his favour. This dog had a remarkable amount 
 ot expression in his face: his eves were so clear and 
 faithful, and when lie looked at us sidewa\s, and the 
 whites of his e\'es showed, the^■ looked so intelligent and 
 thoughtful, so very sagacious, that the\- were almost 
 human. To all appearances Castor understood the mean- 
 ing of man\' words, and we were therefore not sur- 
 prised when the landlord explained to him that he was 
 to conduct us to the Beaume, and with this object re- 
 peated the word "'Beaume" three times. Castor wagged 
 his tail as a sign of comprehension , but nex'ertheless 
 stood still. '"Ah", said the landlord, "I have forgotten 
 the reward which he is accustomed to receive, the one 
 half now, the other at the cave". So the cake, of which 
 
204 SAINTE BEAUME D'HONORAT. 
 
 Castor was specialh' fond, \\as fetched. He devoured 
 one half at once with evident satisfaction: the other half 
 v,e took with us. So we set out, Castor taking the lead 
 and suiting his pace to ours, and frequently looking 
 round to see whether we were following. We walked 
 along beside the railway-embankment in a westerly di- 
 rection and soon reached the entrance to the valley 
 which separates the Pic d'Aurele from the cliffs of Cap 
 Roux. The sea runs up into this ^'alle)•, forming one 
 of the many inlets which are called "calanques'' here. A 
 railway bridge spans the inlet. We thought we should 
 have to pass under the bridge, but Castor led us up 
 across the line, without paving an\' attention to the wire 
 fence. We found that we had to follow his example, 
 for paths led up to the embankment on either side. The 
 wire fence seems there onh' to be stepped over and to 
 shield the railwaA' compan\' in case of accidents. This 
 is the case all along the line ; numerous paths approach 
 the rail on either side, and if you enquire the way even 
 the guard of the line will advise }ou to climb over the 
 iron fence. Castor led us further north-west along the 
 slopes of Cap Roux : he did not strike into any of the 
 paths which lead steeph' up the mountain side, but kept 
 steadih' onward. The valleA' now turned to the west, and 
 we kept along the north slope of the hill. Near the 
 path is a stone hut, which is used bA' the loresters as a 
 shelter, and close to it a spring tlows from the mountain 
 side. Here Castor turned aside to the right and took 
 a steep path up the hill. At first the path was good, 
 but after a while we reached loose stones and rocks. 
 
SAiNTi-: r.KAi'MK n•lr(^X(M^\'^. :ii5 
 
 TluMi we came to stone steps, and in some places we 
 skirted tlie ediJ'e of a precipice: but liere tliere were iron 
 posts dri\en into the rock to liold on b\'. Castor did 
 not seem to sutler from giddiness; he cHmbed cleverh 
 up. often lookiiifT round in dizz\' phices as though doubt- 
 ing our skiU. In front ot us on a ledge of rock rose 
 the ruins ot a tower. \\ e stood at its entrance looking 
 down across the steep rocks into tlie luxuriant \alle\ . 
 (jreen hills crowned with jagged masses of porph\r\' rose 
 be-\-ond: over the Col Le\eque to the east gleamed the 
 snow\ summits of the Alps. And to the west, batlied 
 in mist\- blue, the Montagues des Maures closed the horiz- 
 on, (^n the other side of the tower is the entrance to 
 the cave. Castor was alread\' King down in front of it. 
 He looked at us in a self-satisfied waw and did not think 
 it at all necessar\- to wag his tail when we ga\"e him the 
 rest of the cake. lie knew he deserved it. and humilit\' 
 was therefore imnecessar\'. ^^ e entered the cave. To 
 the right there is a cistern. At the back a modest 
 altar has been made, and still less pretentious are the 
 images of the Saints which adorn tlie walls. St. Ih)nor- 
 atus is said to have lived here once as a hermit. It 
 was he who in the \"ear 40S founded on the lies de 
 Lerins the monaster\' whicli became famous later. For 
 centuries past pilgrims haxe toiled each \'ear, on tlie 
 lirst lliursda\- in Maw up this steep mountain-side to 
 honour the Saint, A niche in the cave is said to have 
 formed the hermit's couch. Hie pilgrims gaze revcrenth' 
 at this hollow in the rock, which the\- consider to be an 
 impression made b\- the bodv of the Saint. 
 
206 ST. HONORATUS. 
 
 St. Honoratus is said to have come of a distinguished 
 famih' from northern Gaul, ^^'hile still \'Oung he retired 
 to this retreat. His example was followed by others. 
 St. Eucharius, a Provencal nobleman, lord of Theoule and 
 of Mandelieu, imitated him, but he did not renounce the 
 u'orld as earh' in life as did St. Honoratus. He must have 
 experienced man\- a bitter sorrow. For, as I understand 
 from the histor\- of the Diocese of Frejus, which the Abbe 
 Disdier has published. St. Eucharius was married and had 
 two sons and two daughters. When death robbed him of 
 his wife, he entrusted the education of his sons to St. 
 Hilarius and retired, first to one of the lies de Lerins. 
 and then to the hermitage of Cap Roux. Here he lived 
 in a cave which was still more inaccessible than that of 
 St. Honoratus. Thus '"isolated, and devoting himself to 
 silence and seclusion, he had neither the desire nor tlie 
 opportunit^■ to sin"". Here he wrote a devout treatise in 
 praise of solitude. But he was not destined to end his life 
 in this retreat. Envo\'s from the communit^' of L^'ons fetched 
 him awa\' to become their Archbishop. It is difficult now- 
 a-da\'s to realise the spirit of those devout ascetics, whose 
 ideal of perfection was not the fulfilment of the ordinary 
 duties of life, but the crushing of all desires and appetites. 
 Yet times were different then, and the world was so sad 
 that some wished to renounce it. Man-\' a man of noble 
 disposition might consider that his ethical ideal could not 
 be realised under such social conditions, and sought refuge 
 therefore in renunciation. Such strenuous idealism — such 
 self sacrifice, compels our admiration. A later hermit of 
 the hills of Cap Roux, Laurentius Bonhomme, appeals to 
 
LALki:N riLS BONHOMME. 
 
 207 
 
 us as more human. 
 He lived there in the 
 hitter half of the seventeenth 
 century. He carried on 
 all sorts of little industries, was 
 always at work, kept bees, sold the 
 w ax and honey and divided the monev 
 he earned among the poor. He did not 
 shut himself off from other men, and not 
 unfrequently walked into Frejus followed 
 by a doe. His bishop asked for the deer and 
 it remained at Frejus. Later on, when Laur- 
 entius came again to Frejus and was speak- 
 ing in a loud voice outside the palace, the doe 
 heard him, sprang out of the window and 
 licked his hands. Then the man felt happ^• ; he 
 enjoyed "le bonheur du parfait solitaire", so the 
 story relates. His hermitage was constantly 
 visited by numbers of birds to which he 
 gave water, in times of drought, among the 
 recesses of the rocks. One day he surprised 
 
 Glohularia ,. ,.i 
 
 Ahpum. thieves robbmg his bee-hives. In terror the 
 
 evil doers saw him approaching. But he 
 
 brought them the beehives, which the\- had left behind, 
 
 with the remark that those were the best. Such boundless 
 
208 SUMM IT OF CAP ROUX. 
 
 benevolence touched the hearts of these miscreants, and 
 it is said that they mended their ways from that very hour. 
 
 We stood again outside the cave lost in contemplation 
 of this charming- view. On this same landscape St. Honor- 
 atus must have looked some fifteen hundred years ago. 
 Then, as now, the porph)'ry rocks glowed red in the sunshine, 
 and the eternal snows gleamed on the summits of the Alps. 
 The same striving after ideals remains in mankind, but 
 manifests itself in other ways. 
 
 We now descend again to the spring, and there strike 
 into a path which leads us to the summit of the moun- 
 tain from the west. We tried to make Castor go home, 
 but he preferred not to leave us. He seemed indeed no 
 longer to feel it his duty to act as guide; and instead of 
 walking in front of us, strayed hither and thither. His chief 
 delight was to put up birds from the shrubs, and then 
 watch them rise into the air. At one time he appeared to 
 be chasing a large animal, probably one of the many foxes 
 which inhabit the Esterel. 
 
 On the summit of Cap Roux, the Grand Pic, or as 
 it was formerly called Vigie de Peyssarin, a prospect un- 
 folds before us the like of which is rarely seen. It is im- 
 pressive in its grandeur. While from the Mont Vinaigre 
 the eye looks far away over wooded hills to the sea, here 
 we have the blue water at our feet. The green slopes of 
 Cap Roux first incline gently towards the sea, then the 
 cliff becomes bare and drops sheer into the waves, then 
 rugged rocks project and sharp ridges jut out into the sea, 
 imprisoning the water here and there in bowls and crater- 
 like hollows. Finally, after diving below the surface, the 
 
\'li:W 1 R OM CAP ROUX. 209 
 
 porplnrx reappears as a purple reel. The water looks xiolet 
 against the red rock.: it sliines like li(,|iiid amethyst in a 
 bowl ot Rosso antico. ^\11 round us tlic rocks glow in llie 
 bright sunlight. (rre\' and yellow lichens tone down the 
 prevailing red into countless shades. We are completely 
 charmed In this rich \ariet\- ot hues : it affects tlie soul 
 like music. So much is our attention attracted b\ this 
 colouring that at lirst we scarceh- obser\ e the shape of 
 the objects, noticing how the tones blend, how thev fade 
 awaA' or become prominent. TIow wondroush' this brown- 
 red mass contrasts with the blue of the sea. which rises 
 behind it to tlie liorizon! 1 low ^'onder block of porph^•r^• 
 detaches itself from the pearl^■-gre^' background of the 
 limestone Alps I There again red peaks stretch forth 
 towards the brilliant skA'. To the east, above Nice, the 
 dazzling snow of tlie Alps crowns the green foot-hills 
 like a siher\- diadem. Our e^■es return to it continualK'. 
 Below, near the coast, the azure sea lies sparkling; far 
 awa\' to the south it mirrors the sun. throwino" back a 
 Hood of light as if from its own depths. 
 
 A large boss of rock to the west co\ers the valley 
 of Frejus : behind it rise the Montagnes des Maures. a 
 velvet^■ green. We gaze along the coast, awa}' to the 
 Golden Isles. To the east the Golfe de la Napoule and 
 Cannes lie before us almost within reach. The lies de 
 Lerins emerge like emeralds from the golden water. We 
 see them now all united into a single gleaming group — 
 in the foreground St. I lonorat. next to it !^te. Marguerite, 
 and to the east, near St. llonorat, the small St. Fereol; 
 behind this again the Lap d"Antibes dips its flower\' shores 
 
210 PIC D'AURELE. 
 
 into the sea, dividing the adjacent bays. Lining the Baie des 
 Anges — the wide ba\' of Angels — is the white town 
 of Nice set in a semicircle of green hills: and then rise 
 mountain upon mountain until beyond Bordighera the out- 
 line of the coast fades awaA' in the mist\' distance. 
 
 This view made no impression upon Castor. He 
 carefully sniffed the stones upon which earlier tourists 
 must have eaten man^' a breakfast. Without doubt he 
 devoted all his imagination to conjuring up the details 
 of the different ''menus"; then he ^'awned repeatedh-, 
 lay down and went to sleep. Hours went b\- before we 
 decided to return. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 We could not well leave the Pic d'Aurele unnoticed, 
 as it was so close at hand. We felt bound to make 
 the ascent, if onh' in honour of that Aurelius from whom 
 it takes its name. Which Aurelius it was whose name 
 this rock bears, and who immortalised the old Roman 
 Road, is not known for certain. In all probabilitA' it was 
 Caius Aurelius Cotta, because he designed the plan for 
 this great highwaA' and carried out its construction from 
 Rome to Pisa in the ^'ear 241 B. C. Emilius Scaurus 
 then continued the road to \"ada Sabatia. the \ ado of 
 today, which lies between vSavona and Albenga, and 
 Augustus carried it on far bcAond \^entimiglia to Aries. 
 The stretch from Pisa to \"ada Sabatia was first 
 called the road of Emilius Scaurus, to distinguish it from 
 that Via Emilia which united Rimini and Piacenza, and 
 owed its origin to Emilius Lepidus. Later the name of 
 
PIC D'AURELE. 211 
 
 "\'ia Aiirelia" was o-iven to the whole road which extended 
 from Rome, throuirh (lenoa, into (iaul. We know all 
 the details ot" this road trom the "Peutinger'sche TaleF', 
 a thirteentli centur\- cop^•, whicli we owe to a monk ot" 
 Colmar. of an Itinerar\- dating from the time of the 
 Roman Empire. Konrad Celtes, of Worms, discovered 
 this cop\' and entrusted it to the worthA' collector of 
 antitiuities. IvonradPeuting-er of Augsburg, to be published; 
 this however \\-as prevented b^' his early death. Later 
 on this important document was acquired b^' the Court 
 Librar\- of Menna , and has since been repeatedlv 
 printed. 
 
 We climbed straight up from the Hotel du Tra\as, 
 crossing the railwa\' line in the customar^■ manner, and 
 soon reached a broad road which skirts the mountain in 
 a westerlv direction. We had to follow this road for 
 some distance with the green valle^' which separates the 
 Pic d'Aurele from Cap Roux, always in front of us. On 
 the northern slopes of Cap Roux the dark red rocks are 
 sharph' outlined, and among them is clearh' seen the 
 tower which guards the cave of St. Honoratus. We 
 chose the first footpath which turned upwards to\\-ards 
 the summit of the Pic d'Aurele. The mountain is onlv 
 about 1,000 feet high, and can therefore be climbed 
 without much exertion. The view from the top is similar 
 to that which we enjoved from Cap Roux. onl\- less 
 extensive. For Cap Roux conceals the whole coast to the 
 west, and only the valle\' on its nortliern side permits of 
 a peep through to the JMontagnes des Maures. W^e see 
 Frejus lying in the vallev of the Argens, and now easily 
 
212 PLAGE D'AURELE. 
 
 understand why the Romans first chose this vale for 
 their road from the coast to Forum Julii. From this 
 place the eve ranges unchecked over the snow -clad 
 Alps and the wide coast. The bare porphyry rocks at 
 the top of the mountain are deeplv cleft and resemble 
 the ruins of a Titan's stronghold. It is necessary to 
 approach the edge with caution, for these rocks are 
 liable to fall over into the vallev without any warning. 
 
 Everv ramble in the Esterel suggests new excursions. 
 With its carefulh' kept roads and woods this mountain 
 range resembles a vast park adorned with huge rock- 
 masses which Nature would seem to have disposed 
 with artistic skill, rare taste, and an expenditure of 
 superhuman energy. 
 
 Castor has become quite friendh', and although distant 
 views do not fascinate him, he accompanies us on all 
 our expeditions, and climbed the Pic d'Aurele with 
 us also. 
 
 A road leads past our Hotel westward to Aga}'. It 
 follows all the indentations of the ''Plage d'Aurele", and 
 from it also, across a foreground of red rocks, a view of 
 the snowy alpine heights is soon obtained. We left the 
 main road and descending to the shore continued our 
 way climbing up and down along the rocky coast. The 
 sea is calm, and only gentle wavelets ripple up the beach 
 with scarce a fringe of foam. The bottom is seen clearlv 
 through the crvstal waters. There, in purple hollows, 
 are strange forms of manv colours shining like precious 
 stones. The Provencal sun bathes us in its glory, and 
 even the sea and the rocks radiate light. The air quivers 
 
LE TRAYAS. 213 
 
 above tlie heated grinind. E\er\thinir sliines and glitters 
 around us; the distance fades into a golden mist and 
 the gleaming snow of the Alps seems to liover over an 
 ab\'ss. 
 
 But we must take leave of Le Travas. Castor 
 accompanied us to the station. We stroked him grate- 
 fulh' before we parted, and he gazed for long after the 
 train wliicli bore us awav. He was distressed; it seemed 
 to us almost as though tears stood in his e^•es. 
 
^^ r, 
 
 'iTT 
 
 THTlil) J01TRX]]Y. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 1 he northern winter had been such a lon^ and 
 drear\' one, that we were yearning for warmth and sunshine. 
 Hut even from the Mediterranean bad reports were con- 
 tinualh' arriving of incessant cold and consequent injur\- 
 to the vegetation. As kite as the beginning of March 
 snow liad fallen and clothed mauA- places on the Riviera 
 in a mantle of white. However at last the springtide 
 sun prevailed there : we received more tavourable news, 
 and a few da\s later saw us in Cannes. When we passed 
 tlie Alps, glorious spring greeted us with a radiant coun- 
 tenance. Hie iourne\' in this sunn\' region, \\here Nature 
 is bus\' awakening ever^'thing to lite, was like a veri- 
 table festal procession. And so we arri\ed on the shores 
 ot the Mediterranean. 
 
21b SPRING ON THE RIVIERA . 
 
 While in the North it was still snowing and the 
 sky was heavih' laden with dark clouds, here the 
 sun shone brighth' in the blue firmament. It was 
 reflected in the sea, and its warm ra\'s, penetrating to 
 our inmost hearts, dispelled the gloom which had 
 gathered there during the dark da^^s. On the Riviera 
 di Ponente too, both plants and people had suffered 
 from the unusual severit}- of the winter. But most 
 plants are hardier than mankind and e^uicklv recover. 
 On the walls of the houses rust\' withered Bougain- 
 villias were beginning here and there to shoot forth, 
 forming tufts of crimson bracts among the dead 
 foliage. Heliotropes were sprouting through the earth, 
 and very soon fresh leaves of a vivid green would re- 
 place the old spotted brown ones on the Fan Palms, 
 The Acacias had bravely withstood both frost and snow 
 and were now completely covered with blossom — masses 
 of bloom lighting up the landscape which was still rather 
 bare. Indeed the vegetation was very backward for the 
 time of ^'ear, rose trees showing onh' closed buds, whereas 
 they are generalh' in their full splendour from the middle 
 of winter onwards. Not a rose was to be seen in any 
 of the numerous flower-shops in Cannes; ihev would have 
 to be ordered from the hothouses of the north. Far 
 worse does the suffering patient fare who has come hither 
 this winter in search of relief or recovery. For he is 
 kept a prisoner in rooms which are often insufficienth- 
 heated. How many lives have been shortened hv this 
 sojourn! It is doubtful whether the worst invalids should 
 be sent here. 
 
VIEW FROM CALIFORNIE. 217 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 As wo did not care to live down hv the sea in the 
 dust\- tiuarters of Cannes, we ascended the slope that 
 overlooks the town from the east, as far as California. 
 Over the beautiful gardens of the Hotel Californie we 
 look onto the Croisette, the small tongue of land that 
 separates the Golfe de la Napoule from Golfe Jouan. 
 Be\ond lies the He Ste. Marguerite, and in the morning 
 light every detail of the fort which crowns the island is 
 distinctly delineated. Of the He St. Honorat the church 
 alone is visible; the rest is hidden by the sister isle. To 
 the west, above the tlowering Acacias, stands the old 
 town of Cannes on the hill whose summit is crowned by 
 the old castle, forming a picturesque and varied scene. 
 Less pleasing in outline is the new part of the town along 
 the bay; but, as seen from this elevation, it is broken 
 and diversified b\' the luxuriant gardens of the hills. Our 
 e\es rested with delight on the jagged contour of the 
 Esterel. It is yonder we take our first look in the morn- 
 ing, when the sun gilds the summits and ever\' hamlet 
 stands out dazzlingly white at the foot of the mountains; 
 and \onder again do our eyes turn in the evening when 
 the sun is disappearing behind the long chain of hills, 
 his ra^■s extending over the evening sky like a fiery fan. 
 Then, one by one, the lighthouses fiash out along the 
 coast, and in the twilight Cannes sparkles with innumerable 
 lights. Tliis spectacle was repeated ever\' evening, but 
 we never wearied of it. 
 
 At nightfall the tree frogs begin their concert in front 
 of the Hotel — a sound familiar to all who frequent 
 
218 TREE FROGS. 
 
 the Riviera in spring. At this season of the ^'ear these 
 creatures assemble in all the reservoirs and call to 
 each other. The remarkable volume of sound is due 
 to the fact that, in the males, the dark skin of 
 the throat swells up into a large sound-bladder. At or- 
 dinary times these pretty bright -green creatures live in 
 the shrubs and trees. We were interested in searching 
 for them in the da^'time. in the garden of the Hotel, and 
 noting how well their colouring adapted itself to their 
 temporary environment. On light leaves they are light 
 coloured, on dark leaves dark, and therefore difficult to 
 see. This is an instance of protective resemblance which 
 enables them to escape the notice of their enemies and 
 also prevents their being observed hx the prev thev are 
 watching for. It is realh' amusing to see how a tree frog 
 hunts insects, how cleverlv he catches them and how 
 high he will spring in order to seize them. 
 
 In spite of the rain, which had fallen abundanth', and 
 the daih' watering, the road leading from Cannes to An- 
 tibes was perceptible onh' as a long streak of dust inter- 
 secting the verdure of the gardens. This white streak was 
 particularly distinct in the afternoons, when carriage after 
 carriage drove along the road raising fresh clouds of dust. 
 This powdered limestone is as fine as flour; it penetrates 
 everything and rises so high that it colours all the trees 
 in the neighbourhood grey to their very tops. Visitors 
 to Cannes breathe this dust everv day and all day, regard- 
 less of the fact that they mostly come south for the benefit 
 of their lungs. This dust unfortunately prevails in man^• 
 places on the Riviera, particularly where the limestone 
 
LA MALRE. 219 
 
 mountains reach the coast. Hut wliat induces invalids to 
 frequent the roads or live near them I I m\selt" detest 
 dust, e\en thoucch m^■ kings are sound. I am a ij|"ood 
 walker and prefer being on foot to driving. So the Hotel 
 was ver\' conveniently situated for me. From it there 
 are foot-paths that lead ver\' soon to wood and Macjuis. 
 From the pine- clad summits of La Maure, about 820 feet 
 above sea level, the most glorious and surprising views 
 are obtainable of luxurianth^ green valleys, of the snowy 
 Alps and the blue coast. This spring the Maritime 
 Alps were particularh' grand as the snow la^' low down 
 on them. The^• reminded one of scenes in the Bernese 
 Oberland. but were far brighter, being bathed in the 
 glor^' of the Italian sun, I was quite content to linger 
 on the heights of La Maure under the Aleppo Pines, but 
 I avoided the "Observatoire" on principle, it being the 
 recognised point of view to which carriages were driven 
 up slowh', in the afternoon, b\' tired horses, along the 
 dusty road. A tower has been erected there, from \\hich, 
 on payment of a fixed fee, vou ma^' admire the beauties 
 of Nature. There is generalh' a crowd, and the music 
 from a neighbouring inn does not help to improve one's 
 frame of mind. 
 
 CHAPTER ITT. 
 
 The road up to the "Observatoire" crosses a canal 
 which supplies Cannes, Golfe Jouan and Antibes with 
 water. It conducts the same water which the Romans 
 drank in Forum Julii. The\' enclosed one of the springs 
 of the Siagne, above Grasse, and conve\ed the water to 
 
220 CANAL NEAR CANNES. 
 
 Frejus bv means of a covered aqueduct, which had to 
 pass through a tunnel — the tunnel of Roquetaillado — 
 fifty yards long. The modern canal which leads to Cannes 
 is considerably inferior to the Roman aqueduct, for it is 
 not covered in and is therefore unprotected against pollution. 
 From La Maure this canal can be followed in a north- 
 westerly direction for miles. A foot-path runs beside it, 
 and it rises so imperceptibly as to appear almost level. 
 It continues in winding curves along the hill-side and 
 commands varied views of Cannes and the Esterel. Soon 
 we find ourselves above Le Cannet, a village north of 
 Cannes, three kilometres from the sea, and well sheltered 
 by hills from the winds. You look down on big hotels, for 
 Le Cannet is a resort for those invalids to whom the sea 
 breeze is injurious. Further on towards the north Mougins 
 crowns an isolated hill 850 feet high. It is a picturesque 
 spot, composed of compact masses of houses with but feu- 
 windows facing outwards. Thither the Oxybii are said 
 to have once retreated when the Romans occupied the 
 coast. It is only half an hour's walk from Mougins to 
 the tower of Castellars, which commands by far the most 
 extensive view of the chain of Alps. 
 
 All the hills which separate Le Cannet from V^allauris 
 can be easily reached from the path along the canal. 
 From their summits we can see, beyond Mougins, Grasse 
 bathed in sunshine at the foot of the grey limestone 
 hills; and to the east in the hollow below lies Vallauris. 
 Farther away you can see Golfe Jouan, Antibes, Nice 
 and the coast-line in the hazy distance; and above the 
 hills that shelter Vallauris, adding a magic finishing 
 
COL 1)1 TENDA. 221 
 
 touch to the whole scene, are tlie snowy masses around 
 the Col di Tenda. 'I'he Italians have for some years 
 been constructing a railway which is to connect Turin 
 with the Mediterranean coast, and the line is finished from 
 Turin uj-) tlie nortliern slope of the pass to Limone. There 
 is already a long tunnel running under the Col di Tenda, 
 which affords facilit}' for traffic. Here the valley of the 
 Roja begins and reaches the coast at Ventimiglia. But 
 political objections and conflicting interests have combined 
 to interfere with its progress, and the railway is, conse- 
 quently, not yet completed. It is even undecided whether 
 the terminus is to be at \'entimiglia or at Nice. This 
 line will in time open up a splendid part of the country, 
 for the Gola di Gandarena, through which the Roja rushes 
 between sky-high precipices, is scarcely less grand than 
 the V'm Mala. Hitherto this mighty gorge, which is one 
 of the most imposing in the Alps, has only been known 
 to those who visited the small village of St. Dalmazzo 
 di Tenda for the baths in the summer season; or to those 
 who ventured on the journey early in spring over the 
 Col di Tenda in spite of deep snow. We 
 did this once 
 and have 
 
 never forgot- ^^^ 
 
 ten the im- >^^^»Br. ^^ktL^^- ^P^^^m^ \ f 
 pression it ^-' 
 made on us. 
 When the rail- 
 way from Cuneo to 
 
 the coast is at last Ilalunel OpunHa. 
 
222 VALLAURIS. 
 
 completed it will be the shortest route between the south 
 of Switzerland and the health resorts of the Western 
 Riviera. The road over the Col di Tenda is said to be 
 the oldest that united the Gallic coast to the plains of 
 northern Italy. It is probably the \'ia Herculea which 
 was constructed b^' the Phoenicians twelve or thirteen 
 hundred ^ears before Christ in order to connect Spain 
 and North Ital}- b^' a route across the Maritime Alps. 
 
 Vallauris, insignificant as it is, has managed to achieve 
 a certain reputation. This it <nves to its brighth' coloured 
 semi -porcelain ware, the "Faiences d'Art", which is to be 
 seen not onU' on the Riviera, but in shop windows of all 
 the larger European to\\ns. It is lead-glazed earthenware 
 baked in a very hot furnace. The Massier family are the 
 chief proprietors of this industr}', and their name is to be 
 seen everywhere on the Avarehouses and the factories. The 
 large warehouse in Golfe Jouan particularl}- attracts the 
 attention of strangers as thcA' drive along the dusty high- 
 wa\- between Cannes and Antibes, on account of its garden 
 gaily ornamented — or rather disfigured — with coloured 
 faience ! 
 
 Although Vallauris has not much to boast of in it- 
 self the excursions among the hills in its neighbourhood 
 are most attractive. From \^allauris you can walk 
 through a pleasant ravine down to Golfe Jouan, or 
 through the wood on the slope of the hill, past Cannes- 
 Eden, straight back to Cannes. In the woods here Cork 
 Oaks are still numerous, while further east there are none. 
 This is due to the difference in the soil, for mica-schist 
 and gneiss crop up here and there near Cannes and 
 
STE. MARGUERITE. 223 
 
 produce similar vegetation to that in tlie Montagnes 
 des Maures. 
 
 CHAPTER iV. 
 
 The ishmd ot Ste. Marguerite lies about three quar- 
 ters of a mile from the extreme point ot the Croisette and 
 can be reached b\- boat in twenty minutes. Twice a day 
 a small steamer plies between the port of Cannes and tlie 
 lies de Lerins. It touches at both islands, and the ex- 
 cursion mav be prolonged into the afternoon if vou go by 
 the first steamer and return b\- the last. We wished to 
 see the coast lighted up at evening from the lies de 
 Lerins, so took a boat at tlie Croisette in the afternoon. 
 The brilliant sunlight reflected on the smooth sea made it 
 look, like burnished steel. A bluish haze lav on the water. 
 The island opposite drew nearer till the walls surrounding 
 the Fort, built b\' Richelieu, were sharph' outlined. Above 
 the rocks to the east peep forth the windows of this no- 
 torious prison which has on more than one occasion so 
 strangeh' riveted the attention of the public. For here was 
 incarcerated that mysterious prisoner, known as the ''Man 
 in the Iron Mask", whose identit^• has exercised the 
 ingenuit^' of historians. Marius Topin has counted no less 
 than fort\--two authors, from the time of \'oltaire to the 
 \'ear 1870, who ha\e written about this prisoner. Xeverthe- 
 less the riddle was not solved and renewed attempts were 
 made to elucidate the mASterv. The result was, as Paul 
 deSaint-\ ictor expressed it, "un concours d'Oedipesautour 
 du Sphinx enchaine". Voltaire had maintained that the 
 mysterious prisoner was a brother of Louis XI\', and b\ 
 
224 MAN IN THE IRON MASK. 
 
 means of Alexandre Dumas' novel, ''Le Mcomte de Brage- 
 lonne", this fable was spread far and wide. After most 
 careful sifting of all the documentary evidence by Funk- 
 Brentano in the ""Revue Historique" of 1894, we may take 
 it as proved that the "Man in the Iron Mask" was Count 
 Hercules Anthony Mattioli, Minister of State to the Duke 
 Charles IV of Mantua. In 1770 Baron Heiss, "ancien 
 capitaine du regiment d'Alsace", a prominent bibhophile 
 had alread}' expressed this opinion which, however, was 
 not generally accepted, and the same assertion by later 
 experts met with as little credence. The report that the 
 prisoner was a scion of the Roval House gained great popu- 
 larity during the French Revolution.* And yet Baron Heiss 
 was right. This Mattioli, with whom he had identified the 
 "Man in the Iron Mask", was born in 1640 in Bologna 
 and came of a much respected family. He early distin- 
 guished himself by his abilities, and soon after his twen- 
 tieth ^•ear was elected Professor at the University of Bo- 
 logna. Charles III of Gonzaga made him his Secretary of 
 State, and his successor Charles IV made him his Min- 
 ister. Mattioli was very ambitious and intriguing. The 
 Abbe d'Estrade, Louis XIV's ambassador at the Venetian 
 court, took advantage of these weaknesses to make use of 
 him for the King's plans. Mattioli had induced the friv- 
 olous Duke of Modena, who was always in money diffi- 
 culties, to sell the fortress of Casale Monferrato to France, 
 and this won for him the favour of Louis XIV. Since gaining 
 possession of the fortress of Pignerolo, the French had been 
 masters of the approach to Piedmont; and the acquisition 
 of Casale had now given them access to the fertile plain 
 
Tin-: MAN l\ THE IRON MASK. 225 
 
 ol Milan. I'^or brini»'iii<»" this alioiit, Louis XI\ lliaiikod 
 MatlioH in an autoij^rajih letter, received liini at N'ersailles. 
 and rewarded liini with nioiKW and costh' ccitts. All tliis 
 did not pre^•ent Mattioli. two months later, trom betra\'ing 
 to Austria the desio-ns ot Louis XI\' and those of the Duke. 
 Louis XI\' and Louvois were greath' enraged and agi- 
 tated at this. The Abbe d'Estrade was commissioned to 
 seize ^hlttioli hv stratagem. Pretending not to know an\- 
 tliing about tlie betra\al, the Abbe enticed Mattioli to a 
 ]-)lace close outside the town under the pretext of pa\'ing 
 him further moneys for his services. The carriage contain- 
 ing the Abbe and Mattioli was immediately surrounded, 
 and Nhittioli was consigned to the fortress of Pignerolo. 
 x\s the affair invohed a ver^• serious violation of national 
 rights it had to be kept secret, and Louis XIV's ex- 
 press orders were that no one was to kno^y what had become 
 of Mattioli. Mattioli was therefore compelled, whenever he 
 went abroad, to wear a mask, not of iron, but of black 
 velvet. At Pignerolo Mattioli had been handed over to 
 the notorious w'-lt. ^Lirs. and he was obliged to follow him 
 to the island of Ste. ]\Lirguerite, and later to the Bastille, 
 where he died on November 19"^, 1703. Louis XIV's ex- 
 planation to Madame de Pompadour, who repeated it to 
 the Due de Choiseul, nameh- that the Man with the Mask 
 had been an Italian Minister, corroborates this. Later 
 Louis X\'l also, gave the same exjilanation to Marie An- 
 toinette, So that in realit\' the legend concerned a man of 
 but little importance, who does not seem to have even merit- 
 ed any sxmpathy, and it was onh' the mask which he was 
 compelled to wear, that lent so much interest to the story. 
 
226 BAZAINE. 
 
 It is said that after the Revocation of the Edict of 
 Nantes bv Louis XIV, Protestant ministers also had 
 languished in this prison. Napoleon I, on the other hand, 
 imprisoned a Roman Catholic priest here — de Broglie, 
 Bishop of Ghent. Then there were less distinguished pri- 
 soners, such as Mamalukes. But the imprisonment 
 of Bazaine again attracted universal attention to Ste. 
 Marguerite. Bazaine succeeded in escaping. His wife, 
 a voung Mexican, and his former Adjutant Villette 
 who had accompanied him to Ste. Marguerite, aided his 
 flight. It is said that he let himself down by a rope to 
 the rocks and waited for his wife in tattered clothes, with 
 wounded hands and blood-stained face. He was then ob- 
 liged to cast himself into the sea and swim to the boat 
 which had come to fetch him, as the stormv waves pre- 
 vented its landing. But it is quite certain that this 
 was a fable, deliberately invented to conceal the truth. It 
 seems probable that secret orders were given to let 
 Bazaine escape, in which case his wife would be sure 
 to meet him. 
 
 It was as calm as a lake near these rocks today, and 
 we landed with ease on the stony shore. The Fortress 
 itself is hardly worth a visit, unless you wish to be edi- 
 lied by the extraordinary thickness of the walls, and the 
 triple grating to the windows in the prison rooms. Sol- 
 diers invalided home from Algiers and the more distant 
 colonies, are now lodged in the Fortress. From the terrace 
 they can enjoy a distant prospect of overwhelming gran- 
 deur, but they seem to prefer to sleep the day away in 
 the Pine woods close by. 
 
SMYRNlUiM. 
 
 FERULA. 
 
 227 
 
 We also \\ished to go there, so we took the path up 
 o\er the slope west of the Fortress. We are soon in the 
 midst of the bushes of the Maquis. What strikes us most 
 is the luxuriant irrowth of the Umbellates around us. We 
 had seen quantities of the modest Smyrnmm Olusatruw 
 in other places on the Riviera, and had alwius noticed 
 it on account of its llowers which are of an unusual colour 
 lor Umbellates - — a peculiar golden green. It received 
 its specific name of Olusainini (Black kitchen herb), be- 
 cause its young leaves and shoots were eaten as a vege- 
 table b^' the Romans. Another Umbellate, the Ferula 
 nodiilora, which we found side b^' side with the Sm^'r- 
 nium, grows over two yards high. We had seen similar 
 Ferulas in the Gardens of La Mortola. Here the^' grow 
 in masses and J^ stamp the scenery with such a peculiar 
 
 character that 
 transported t 
 
 one could imagine oneself suddenh' 
 
 quite a different region. The deep 
 
 \ \'ellow umbels diffuse a strong 
 
 •^^ fragrance resembling that of 
 
 Elder flowers. Although so earl\- 
 
 / in the year these plants 
 
 were in full bloom on 
 
 this ver\' warm island, 
 
 and amongst them, the 
 
 / ^Vsphodels (Asphodchis 
 
 '1^. raniosiis). had unfolded 
 
 their white 
 
 lUlichrysum Sloechas. 
 
 '/ 
 
 
 ki 
 
 Tc\AJ 
 
 >^^ 
 
228 ILE STE. MARGUERITE. 
 
 inflorescences which were a vard high and much branched. 
 Thus we were surrounded bv classical plants — the Fe- 
 rula, whose pith smoulders like tinder and is said to have 
 been used bv Prometheus in order to steal the fire from 
 Olvmpus; and the Asphodel which forms meadows in the 
 nether world where Minos holds jurisdiction over souls. 
 We enjoyed a singularh' prett^• view of the opposite coast 
 framed, as it were, bv these plants. Stretched out before 
 us lav Cannes, coquettishlv gav in the brilliant sunshine. 
 The snowy masses of the Alps seemed to be floating in 
 the air beyond Golfe Jouan, veiled in that bright blue 
 mist peculiar to the sk\' of Provence. From the blue ex- 
 panse of sea and the green hills of the coast the land- 
 scape rises step bv step, culminating in the grand snow- 
 capped giants of the Alps. It required some resolution 
 to tear oneself awav from this spot and to continue the 
 excursion to the opposite shore of the island. An avenue 
 of Eucalyptus trees leads through the Pine wood, at the 
 end of which the boat awaits us. 
 
 Immediateh' in front of us now lav the island 
 of St. Honorat, separated from Ste. Marguerite onlv 
 by a narrow channel. Most enjoyable is the passage 
 across the shallow water whose azure tones blend 
 with the colours of the clear sea -bottom, of the dark 
 ledges of rock, bright patches of Algae, and green 
 meadows of Grass-wrack (Poseidouia). Down below 
 the water shows every shade of sapphire-blue, emerald- 
 green and purple: it varies in tint like opal, glistens 
 like mother-of-pearl and is reflected quiveringly against 
 the gliding boat. 
 
ILE ST. HONORAT. 229 
 
 The He St. 1 lonorat was called b^• the Romans 
 "Lerina". St. Iloni^ratus came fri)m his hermitage in the 
 Esterel to this island in the bet^inning- of the fifth century. 
 He found it. so the legend runs, full of poisonous snakes 
 which made it impossible to live there. But the Saint 
 pronounced a great anathema over the snakes and the\' 
 were destro^•ed. He climbed up a Palm tree and, at his 
 entreat^■, the sea came and washed the snakes awa^•; he 
 pra\ed to God and out of the ground a spring gushed 
 forth. St. Honoratus was soon joined hv Caprasius, the 
 old man who in later times was also honoured as a Saint. 
 Followers came from all parts, and the monastery then 
 established soon gained a considerable reputation. There 
 St. \'incent. one of the most prominent monks of Lerin, 
 wrote the "Commonitorium" against heres^', a work which 
 is often cited in our times in controversies about the 
 dogma of infallibility, particularh' the following sentence: 
 "What has been believed by all, ever^•where and always, 
 that is truly catholic". To this monaster\- also belonged 
 St. Hilarius, who, like St. Honoratus, later became Bishop 
 of Aries: likewise St. Maximus, who held the see of 
 Frejus; then Faustus, Bishop of Reji, who is reckoned 
 among the Saints, but whose orthodox\' was very much 
 doubted; then St. Salvian, St. Valerian and the two sons 
 of vSt. Eucharius; St. \"eranius, St. vSalonius and man\- 
 others. From the little island Lerina. which was named 
 St. Honorat after the founder of her monaster\', no less 
 than twelve archbishops, twelve bishops, twelve abbots 
 and four monks were canonised. "Oh blessed hermitage. 
 Oh thrice happy island that hast trained so many sons 
 
230 MONASTERY OF ST. HONORAT. 
 
 of Heaven!" Well might the Archbishop of Aries, Cae- 
 sarius, son of the Count of Chalons, exclaim on his death- 
 bed, in the year 542: "Beata et felix insula Lvrinensis!" 
 In honour of all these Saints a special festival — that of 
 "All Saints of Lerina" — was celebrated on the 15''' of 
 May. About the )'ear 690 the monaster\' numbered up- 
 wards of 3/00 monks. How could the^' all have found 
 room on the little island, which is onh' about a thousand 
 paces long and four hundred paces broad! This sudden 
 prosperity of the monastery carried with it the germs of 
 destruction. The ascetic life disappeared more and more. 
 At the time when St. Caesarius was a monk at the monas- 
 tery the rules of the Order were extremely strict. Each 
 monk lived alone in his cell and there was neither a 
 dormitor\' nor a kitchen, St. Caesarius lived on herbs 
 and broths which he cooked on Sunda\s for the whole 
 week. All this was altered later, and by the end of the 
 seventeenth century, as Abbe Disdier relates, the Popes 
 were compelled to interfere in order to restrain the irreg- 
 ularity of the monks. Saint Aigulf, sent there to establish 
 rigorous discipline and to convert the monks to a better 
 mode of life, was mutilated b\- them and handed over 
 to pirates. When the Saracens came, in the year 7^'2, 
 they plundered the monastery and murdered all its in- 
 mates. Only St. Eleutherius was left alive, concealed in 
 an inaccessible crevice of the rock, where he supported 
 himself on roots and shellfish for a space of eight days. 
 The monastery flourished again to some extent, but the 
 security and peace of former days had vanished from the 
 island; and the abbot Adalbert, in the year 10/3, built 
 
MONASTERY OF vST . HONORAT. 231 
 
 a stroiiir quadrangular lower on the shore facintr Africa, 
 and keeping; watcli o\er tlie sea. This tower was lari^e 
 enoujrli to accommodate all the monks; the\' could hide 
 the monasterA' treasures in it and also defend themselves 
 effectively from their old enemies the pirates and Saracens. 
 Thus it came to pass that the monastery not onh- con- 
 tmued to exist, hut also enjo\-ed great prosperit\" and 
 produced man\' an abbot of spiritual eminence. In the 
 sixteenth centur\- it possessed one of the richest sanc- 
 tuaries and a famous librar^-. But in the seventeenth 
 century, during tlie pontificate of Gregory XV, it began 
 to fall into deca\'; and when it was secularised in the 
 year 17i>8 it numbered but four monks. The treasures 
 of the monaster^• were divided between the churches of 
 the neighbouring parishes. Man^' valuable objects dis- 
 appeared during the French Revolution, amongst them 
 a silver reliquar^' containing the remains of St. Honoratus 
 which had been deposited in Cannes. This artistically 
 worked reliquary dated from the time of Francis I. who 
 after the battle of Pavia passed the night of June 2P' 1525 
 as a prisoner in tlie monastery In the \'ear 17*'l the 
 monastery was sold hv auction and strangeh' enough 
 afterwards came into the possession of an actress, whose 
 father, Alziar\- de Roquefort, had purchased it. She her- 
 self, under the name of Sainval, liad achieved brilliant 
 triumphs at the Comedie Francaise and retired hither out of 
 pitjue against her rival the equalh' celebrated N'estris. and 
 lived tor a time in one of the monks' cells in the strong tower. 
 The island of Ste. Marguerite was called hv the 
 Romans, "Lero". Strabo relates that a temple once adorned 
 
232 STE. MARGUERITE. 
 
 this island and that the Ligurian pirates offered up sacri- 
 fices there. There is a legend which connects the name 
 of Ste. Marguerite, which the island now bears, with the 
 sister of St. Honoratus. It relates how, longing very 
 much to see her brother, Marguerite came to Lerina and 
 fell at his feet. The rules of the Order prohibited the 
 presence of women at Lerina, so St. Honoratus took his 
 sister to the island of Lero. where she abode and became 
 Abbess. Marguerite bid her brother farewell under a 
 cherry tree in full bloom and he had to promise that he 
 would go and see her as often as the tree blossomed. 
 The holy Abbess prayed so effectively that the cherry 
 tree blossomed every month! 
 
 In the )'ear 1869 monks again inhabited the monastery 
 of St. Honorat. The see of Frejus had acquired this 
 monastery in the ^-ear 1859, and ten years later sent 
 Cistercians thither. These monks are clothed in white 
 with black caps, black girdles and scapularies. Women 
 are not permitted to enter the monaster's', but the^' do 
 not lose much by this, for scarcely anything remains of 
 the older parts of the building, and the church is of 
 quite recent origin. The castle erected beyond the 
 monastery on the sea shore has far wider claims to 
 mterest, and ladies are not prohibited from visiting it. 
 It is a strong building of cut stone that has defied the 
 ravages of time. Pierced b^- but few windows and battle- 
 mented, it distinctly shows the purpose for which it was 
 originally built. Seen from some distance this grey castle 
 stands out strikingly from the sea and the violet back- 
 ground of the Esterel mountains ; the dark green Pine 
 
CASTLE ON ST. IIONORAT. 
 
 233 
 
 trees, overhanging ihc shore, form a frame to the picture. 
 In times of danger all the monks of the monaster\' were 
 able to take refuge with their treasure in this castle. A 
 cistern in the middle of the open courtyard supplied 
 the necessary drinking water, Picturest|ue colonnades 
 
 rise in two Mj tiers around it. Ruined arches, 
 
 rooms half '/J^ choked up with earth, secret staircases 
 leading CN /) .'' to subterranean chambers succeed each 
 other in — '\' bewildering confusion. The castle was at 
 once both '^ monastery and fortress, characteristic 
 
 ot that age If^.. \\-hen the same hand often held both 
 sword and LX5r' cross; an age of passionate excitement, 
 blind and rimd in its force of con- 
 
 yasniinuin 
 fniticans. 
 
 foot of the 
 crevices of 
 
 V ji 1 ^ \iction, and yet not wanting in crea- 
 ^ tive power and in a peculiar 
 
 poetic sentiment of its 
 [A-r^ own. A winding stair- 
 case leads to the top 
 > ^ of the tower whence 
 
 -^ a Ime prospect is un- 
 folded to view. We 
 look down on the 
 /^ Ca_>^ lies de Lerins, which 
 seem to tloat upon the sea 
 like rafts of green, and we 
 command a view of the whole stretch 
 of the coast from St. Tropez to the 
 mountains of Bordighera. — From the 
 castle to its ver\' top, growing in the 
 the walls, is a Crucifer. This is the 
 
234 THE WILD STOCK. 
 
 violet sweet - scented Winter-stock (Matthiola incana, 
 Fig. p. 289), called in German '•Levkojen", which visitors 
 to the island are so eager to get, but which fortunately 
 has established itself on the castle in quite inaccessible 
 places. This plant grows wild here, for the Mediterranean 
 region is its habitat. It is not named after its former neigh- 
 bour the "Man with the Iron Mask", but after Pietro Andrea 
 Mattiolo of Siena, who called himself Matthiolus and was 
 Imperial Physician in Menna during the first half of the 
 sixteenth century. He also gained a great reputation as 
 a botanist, particularly as Commentator on Dioscorides. 
 The Greek "Leucoion"', which in German has changed into 
 Levkoje, means white violet. A great number of plants 
 were called by the Greeks "violets" and these were 
 distinguished from each other by means of additional 
 adjectives. Our Violet proper was called b^■ Theo- 
 phrastus "melanion", the dark, while the Stock, Wallflower 
 and the Dame's \^iolet {Hesperis) go b\' the name of 
 "Leucoion", light violets. The Romans used the word 
 "Viola" in the same way, adding the term "purpurea" 
 when they meant our \ iolet. 
 
 St. Honorat is much smaller than her sister isle, but 
 St. Honoratus chose it as the site of his monastery 
 on account of the spring there. Jagged rocks jut up 
 out of the sea near the castle, they are called the "monks" 
 and form a natural defence to the island. The force of 
 the sea is broken h\ them when storms from the south 
 drive the waves against the island. There are a tew 
 chapels on the beach, relics of by-gone times; fragments 
 of marble pillars and capitals may be found amidst M^Ttle 
 
\'i:(ii: r.\ ri( )N oi-^ sr. iionorat. :.v=^ 
 
 and LlmUiscus. roniindcrs o\ lornuM- splendour. For littcen 
 centuries did the monks remain masters of tliese islands, 
 as well as of part of the opposite mainland. 'rhe\' now 
 de\()te tliemseUes to an Orjilian As\lum which stands 
 near the monaster\'. There the bo^•s learn various crafts. 
 The building also contains a printing- press, in which old 
 ecclesiastical works are reproduced. IMiis press presented 
 Pope Leo XIII. on tlie occasion of his jubilee, with a 
 riclih' ornamented work containin<r tlie "Mao"nificat" 
 translated into "a hundred and tift\"' different tongues. 
 The monks ha\e recentU- begun to manufacture a Lic|ueur. 
 made from lierbs. which is called '"Lerina"' after tlie 
 ancient name of the island. 
 
 As the giant Ferulas predominate in the vegetation 
 of the He Ste. Marguerite, so does the Cistus in ^^t. Honorat. 
 Tliere is no lack of Pine trees either on this island, indeed 
 the\- cover tlie greater part of it; but it is the rich 
 colouring of tlie Cistus which leaves the strongest im- 
 pression on m\ niemor\'. The following species of Cistus: 
 6". alhidi/s (Fig. p. cSo), i)n>iL<pcIi(V/:<is (Fig. p. 89), salvii- 
 fo/i'iis ( Fig p. 95 ), are represented here in countless 
 numbers, and were in such profusion of bloom as I had 
 never before seen. These plants ever delighted me anew, 
 especialh' the sil\er\- C. alhfc/iis with its large soft satiny 
 j)ink blossoms. 1 lere also the remarkable tier\--coloured 
 parasite, Cytimis Hxpocistis. wliich grows on the roots 
 ot the Cistuses. was so abundant that one could easiU' 
 have gathered large bunches of it. On these islands. 
 with their luxuriant growth, one revels in the Mediterranean 
 vegetation and enjoxs the incomjiarable beaut\' of Nature. 
 
 10 
 
236 THE SQUIRTING CUCUMBER. 
 
 The\' are iewels on this exejuisite coast. Close to the 
 castle, on the seashore, was the GlmiciiDU LiitciDii already 
 in tlower. that handsome horned Popp\' distinguished b^' 
 its glaucous foliage and large delicate lemon-vellow tiowers. 
 Not far off, spreading in ever\' direction, was one ot the 
 Gourd famih-, Echalliuni Elaterhim, the "vSeiuirting Cu- 
 cumber". From its prostrate stem rise large hair\' leaves 
 and unattractive dull Aellow-veined flowers which are 
 unisexual. This plant is distributed over the Mediterranean 
 region: its juice is strongh' purgative and was prescribed 
 \i\ Hippocrates for this purpose. It owes its name to 
 the extraordinarv behaviour of its ripe fruits. These are 
 cylindrical, greenish mellow, bristlv. and attached to a 
 recurved pedicel. If a ripe fruit be touched it detaches 
 itself suddenh' from its stalk and squirts its contents with 
 great force to a distance. This phenomenon is caused 
 b\- the interior tissue of the fruit becoming mucilaginous 
 as it ripens ; this at length severs the connection with 
 the stalk. At the same time certain cell-layers of the 
 walls being in a state of tension, exert a strong pressure 
 on the contents and the slightest shock is sufficient to 
 cause the separation of the fruit from the stalk and the 
 expulsion of tlie seeds through the orilice thus produced. 
 The object of this singular arrangement is the dispersal 
 of the seeds. 
 
 Eastward of St. Honorat lies the rockv islet of 
 St, Fereol, Its soil is covered mainh- b^■ a rank growth 
 of Rue, Ruta hracteosa. This plant reminds one very 
 much of our garden Rue, but its smell is so unpleasant 
 and penetrating that one rather avoids touching it. 
 
I LI'. ST. Fi:i>!i:OL. 237 
 
 While lri»'end and hislorx- cncirck' the two lies de 
 Lerins as it were with a haUi, an e.\traordinar\', almost 
 diMiioniacal. in\ tli has been associated with vSt. Fereol. 
 It was said ■ — and tlie sa\in<r is still current that 
 
 the bod\' of Pao-anini la\' tor a time buried on the islet 
 of St. bereol. I have read this statement in French 
 uorks. "rhe\- maintain that I^iq^anini died ot" cliolera 
 at Nice in Ma\' 1S4(). and tliat his son Achille had 
 taken the remains of his tather hv sliip to Genoa in 
 order to inter them in liis native place. But the priest- 
 hood denied biu'ial to the man of whom it was said 
 that he had pledged himself to v^atan : and the Muni- 
 cipalit\' would not permit the landing of the bod^' for 
 fear of the cholera. The son tlien tried to accomplisli 
 liis object at ^hlrseilles but did not succeed. As he 
 was retused at Cannes also he decided to take the 
 coftin bv niglit to the little uninhabited island, and there 
 the bod\" remained for tive \ears. It was onh' in May 
 1845 that the son returned after having obtained per- 
 mission to bur\- the remains of his father in the church- 
 \ard of (jajona, near Parma, not far from the villa that 
 Paganini had owned. This tale came to m\' mind on 
 seeing Paganini's violin in the magnificent Palazzo Doria 
 Tursi. now tlie I\alazzo Municipio at Genoa. This was 
 during the Columbian Fete when the members of the 
 Scientific Congress were received h\ the vSindaco in the 
 rooms of the Munici]3io. The violin — a Guarneri — 
 trom wliich Paganini once drew such magic strains, is 
 kept like a sacred relic in a costlv shrine. During the 
 Fete it had been decorated with silken ribbons in the 
 
 10* 
 
238 PAGAN IN I. 
 
 colours of Italy. I pondered on all this now as I looked 
 at the little island of St. Fereol Wmg before me in the 
 sea. This bright scene would not have suited the £(looni\- 
 spirit of Paganini. The loneh' little island would have 
 pleased him better when the raging elements drove the 
 foaminpf waves over the rocks, while the wind moaned 
 and shrieked across the sea: when Nature pla\'ed weird 
 music on her G string, as he alone knew how to pla\' 
 on this string to his agitated audience. Yes, certainly, 
 this spot amid the surging waves would be more appro- 
 priate than a peaceful church\ard for the grave of 
 Paganini. What a pit\' that the stor\' is only an in- 
 vention ! Paganini really died at Nice , in the \ ia 
 Santa Reparata, of consumption of the throat and not of 
 cholera. In consequence of his illness he had long 
 before lost his voice. As he refused to receive the last 
 sacraments the priesthood refused him Church burial, 
 and this onh- took place some \'ears after. Paganini's 
 son, who is still living in Parma, informs me that since 
 1(S76 his father's remains have lain in the large church- 
 yard della X'illetta, after the^' had been carried first 
 to \'illafranca and then to Genoa — restless even in 
 death. He, the son, had had a handsome monument 
 erected over the grave as no suitable place could be 
 found for it in Genoa. Most extraordinar^' stories were 
 current concerning Paganini's life, and these gained credence 
 from his singular appearance, his almost spectral atten- 
 uation and the pallor of his countenance, on which, as 
 Heine wrote, care, genius and hell had graven their 
 indelible marks. Paganini himself, too. contributed in no 
 
PAGANINI. 
 
 239 
 
 small degree to the spread of these reports by 
 
 eccentric conduct. Hut onlx- 
 
 once, while in Paris, did 
 
 he feel prompted to retute "^^ 
 
 the stories that were 
 
 printed about him in 
 
 the newspapers. In yf: 
 
 a letter which he 
 published in the "Revue 
 Musicale" he gave an 
 account of his life and <M^'- 
 assured the public that '' 
 he had neither murdered 
 his sweetheart nor been iii 
 prison, nor had he sig- \ 
 ned himself over to . -" 
 the devil. And he con- 
 cluded with the hope that 
 they would at least 
 allow his ashes 
 their well-earned 
 repose. Yet this hope 
 was not to be fuUilled. 
 Even a marble bust of 
 Paganini in the Mlletta . 
 di Xegro at (jenoa dis- 
 appeared mysteriousK- from 
 that place. 
 
 N\'e returned to the is- ^, --ms??- <» 
 
 land of Ste. Marguerite and w, „,,,,,, 
 
 his 
 
 
 V 
 
 u 
 
240 SUNSET FROM STE. MARGUERITE. 
 
 spent the time until sunset on the northern slope which 
 is covered with Ferula. The fiery ball disappeared in 
 radiance behind the Esterel mountains. On the high hills 
 to the north-east long streaks of mist were floating; they 
 filled the hollows of the valleys, then ascended to the 
 snow of the Alps, turned violet and rose coloured, then 
 disappeared, leaving no trace. Now the chain of giant 
 peaks stood out sharp against the blue skv. Soon they, 
 too, blushed rosv-red, then kindled to purple which gradu- 
 ally died away, and finally became a dead white. The 
 last glow of davlight still lingered on the deep, its smooth 
 surface showing those faint reflections peculiar to old 
 Venetian mirrors: then it began to change colour and 
 vary in tint like opal. The purple, vanishing from the 
 hills, spread over the evening sky and soon covered the 
 sea. Mysteriously moaning, its ruddy waves now lapped 
 the rocky shore. The sky over the Alps assumed a pale 
 green tint and then it became dark. Innumerable stars 
 appeared in the heavens and countless lights flickered 
 along the coast. We stepped into the boat again and 
 glided away softly over the water. A fresh breeze fanned 
 our faces, and we rejoiced to inhale the invigorating air. 
 We hardly exchanged a word and only broke the silence 
 when we had landed at the Croisette. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Cannes was under the jurisdiction of the Abbots of 
 Lerin. They had received the place from William of 
 Gruetta, a son of Redouard, Count of Antibes. In the 
 year 1080 Abbot Adalbert commenced the building of 
 
CAXNi:S. 241 
 
 that castle wluise ruins still crown Mont Chevalier. The 
 old town of Cannes rests on the slope ot this iiill. In 
 the nionaster\- of Lerin spiritual t|iialities were fostered 
 above all things, hence the mildness of its rule. This 
 influenced the manners and customs of the inhabitants 
 on the shore, for, while on the otlier side of the Esterel 
 the people were governed b\' rough leudal lords; and 
 their amusements consisted in mock tights — the so called 
 "bravades''. in Cannes. \ allauris and Antibes they 
 had the "romerages"', that is to sa\' dances and rural 
 sports, to enliven the "Fetes''. To this da^• the "bravades" 
 have survived at St. Tropez, and the "romerages" at 
 X'allauris. \\ atch towers were erected all along the coast 
 as a protection against the Saracens. Fire signals b\' 
 night and white tiags b\' da\', on the lies de Lerins. 
 warned the dwellers on the coast of the approaching 
 enem\'. Cannes had a fairh' peaceful existence, shielded 
 b\' the monaster\-. which bore the brunt of the enemy's 
 attacks, and onI\' during the wars of Francis I with 
 Charles \ did it first sustain severe losses. In 1580 the 
 black plague was brought to Cannes b\' a ship from the 
 East, and it spread over tlie wliole of Provence. Then 
 came much trouble in the course of time, as \\hen, in 
 the seventeenth century, the lies de Lerins fell tempor- 
 ariU- into the power of Spain: and again, in the eiglit- 
 eenth centur\-, when the Austrian and Piedmontese troops 
 invaded Provence; but jiarticularh' at the time of the 
 Austrian \\'ar of vSuccession, during the unsuccessful attacks 
 of Austria on Provence. On the other hand a serio-comic 
 element is not altogether wanting in the history of Cannes. 
 
242 CANNES. 
 
 For the Archives of the town contain an account of a 
 wild animal that in 1/85 filled town and country with 
 panic. Not a single inhabitant of the town ventured to 
 stir abroad. At last a bod^' of valiant men took up 
 arms and succeeded in sla^-ing the animal on the borders 
 of the commune. No one had ever seen such a creature, 
 and they did not know what to call it. A violent dispute 
 about the skin now began between the communities of 
 Cannes. Grasse and Mougins, on whose common boundarv 
 the animal had fallen. A serious contiict threatened, but 
 was fortunately averted by the Marquis de Caraman. 
 General in Command of Provence, who appropriated the 
 skin himself. It was then certified to be the skin of a 
 hyaena, but how the animal had stra\ed to Cannes 
 remained unexplained. 
 
 By the end of the eighteenth century Cannes had 
 sunk into a quite unimportant communit\'. When Horace 
 Benedict de Saussure visited it in 178/ he found only 
 two streets, which were inhabited almost entirely b\" sailors 
 and fishermen. The beauty of the spot struck him. 
 "C'est un site vraiment delicieux", he exclaimed on the 
 hill of St. Cassien, as his eyes wandered over tlie blue 
 (jolfe, the green islands, the luxuriant valley of the 
 Siagne, Grasse and the grey limestone Alps. The Hotels 
 in Cannes at that time must have been ver\' primitive, 
 nevertheless Heinrich Schubert, Professor at Eriangen, was 
 very comfortable in one of these houses when he came 
 to Cannes in the year 1822. He and "Die gute Haus- 
 frau" had been walking for eight hours over the Esterel 
 mountains to Cannes, and arrived there on a hot after- 
 
SCIUHIOKT ON CANNi:S. 243 
 
 no(.)ii i,|uitc tired out. .About this Schubert writes: — 
 "Die ^ule Ihuistrau has ne\er telt belter, or more cheerful, 
 during the whole of this jtjurnew She lias been more 
 comfortable and enjo\ ed lier meals more at this little 
 inn at C'annes than am where else, and the charges were 
 ver\' moderate and tlieretore suited us. 'i'he little house 
 was one of the iirst in the row hv the sea-shore. It is 
 true there were no marble steps leading to the upper 
 store\', which consisted almost entirely of the one room 
 where we dined : but there was a wooden staircase goinsf 
 up Irom the outside, and it could be mounted just as 
 quickh' as a stone one. The balconw where we sat. 
 outside this room, had neither iron nor bronze railings, 
 onh' wooden ones, but the prospect from it of the surging 
 sea beneath was just as extensive and lovelv as from a 
 stone one. Young chickens, hatched onlv a few da\"S 
 ago, ran about with the old hen in the dining-room and 
 on tlie balcon\', picking up the crumbs of white bread 
 that the housewife strewed for them. After par- 
 taking of an excellent repast and resting ourselves, we 
 took up our knitting and ]5lant portfolio and. bidding 
 farewell to our balconv with the loveh' view of tlie sea 
 and to our kindh* reasonable hosts, sallied forth under the 
 shady avenue ot' trees close to the surf on the road to 
 Antibes". 
 
 Cannes was indeed ver\- different then to what it 
 is now. It owes the commencement of its present pros- 
 perity however to an accident. In lS.i4 when the cliolera 
 spread over the whole of northern i'>ur()]H'. Itah' isolated 
 herself b\' means of a cordon all along her frontiers. 
 
244 CANNES. 
 
 Travellers coming from France to the Italian side of the 
 Riviera were compelled to sta^' several da}s in Cannes. 
 which was free of infection, before the\- were allowed 
 to cross the boundarv at the \'ar. xVmong these trav- 
 ellers was Lord Brougham, who had recently resigned 
 the office of Lord Chancellor of England, and, much 
 depressed bv the loss of his dearly-loved daughter, was 
 hurr\-ing to Italv. Cannes, where he was unwillingly 
 detained, pleased him so much that he decided to remain 
 there. He purchased some land and built a castle which 
 he called Eleonore Louise, after his daughter. His example 
 was followed b^- a great number of his countr^•-men, 
 and English visitors of the upper class gradualh' moved 
 from Nice to Cannes. The\' were followed hv the French 
 aristocrac\', and Cannes rapidh' developed into one of 
 the leading health resorts on the Riviera. 
 
 CHAPTER VFL 
 
 During the season in Cannes there is such an intkix 
 of wealth\- strangers that it is not surprising to lind the 
 number of fashionable shops increasing each yeav. Near 
 the railwa\' crossing, in a small and most unpretentious 
 wooden cottage, a little shop A'et remains unchanged, in 
 which a now aged man offers articles of "Aloe wood" 
 for sale. The material which he works has realh" 
 nothing to do with either Aloe or wood, but is the 
 tough ar.d verv light tissue from the dowering stem ot 
 Agaves. It comes from the tiower-scapes of Ag-azr 
 americana that we see in spring on the Riviera, either 
 growing from the midst of their giant tiesh}' leaves, or 
 
AGAVE. 
 
 245 
 
 alrcach' brown and tlead. to\\erin<^ like candelabra above 
 the withering plants. In a remarkably short space of 
 time one of these llowcr stems will o-row from live to 
 seven A-ards in heiglit, and disphu' its \ellow sweet- 
 scented tlowers, whose number ma\- exceed four thousand. 
 The idea that an Agave must be a liundrcd A^ears old 
 to llower is onh- true in a limited sense. On tlie 
 Riviera a period of from ten to fifteen years must elapse 
 before it is able to do this. The specimens in our con- 
 servatories, on the contrary, often wait fift^' \'ears and 
 even longer for this moment. There is a plant closeh- 
 allied to the Agave, the Fourcroya lo/ig-aeva, which 
 according to the Mexicans tlowers onh' once in four 
 hundred years. It grows in the highlands of Oaxaca. 
 in Mexico, and there attains a height of nearh- sixt\- 
 feet before it puts forth its inflorescence. This then 
 shoots up fort^•-llve fept 
 high and pro- •- • » 
 duces 
 more 
 
 than a mil- 
 lion and a half 
 blossoms. The 
 Fourcro\-as in the garden 
 ol La Mortola furnish an 
 example of tliis wonderful 
 luxuriance. 
 
 The sudden appearance 
 ol the intlorescence of the 
 Agave and its raj)id deNelopment 
 
246 AGAVE. 
 
 after the plant had been growing so very slowly in its early 
 stages, impressed Linnaeus so much that he gave it the 
 name it now bears, which he intended to mean "wonderful". 
 The first Agave reached Europe in 1561 from South America, 
 and as early as 1583 one of these plants flowered at 
 Pisa. It excited not a little astonishment and was des- 
 cribed by Caesalpin. Now Agaves in full bloom 
 are such a common sight that thev are hardly noticed. 
 It is very inaccurate to call the Agave an Aloe, for 
 the true Aloe does not even belong to the same family 
 of plants. The Agave, and the Fourcroya, are classed 
 amongst the Amaryllidaceae, while the Aloe is placed in 
 the Liliaceae. 
 
 In Mexico, when the /Vgave is about to Hower, the 
 central shoot is often cut out to be eaten as a dainty 
 or as a vegetable. Or these central shoots of the Agave 
 are roasted and then allowed to ferment in skins in 
 order to distil a very fiery spirit called ''Mescal'', which 
 is rather like Scotch Whisky. The amount of sweet 
 tasting liquid that a vigorous i\gave }'ields if the central 
 shoot is cut out just at the moment when it is ready 
 to put forth its inflorescence is remarkable. It is said 
 to be as much as Ave litres daily, and that a single 
 plant will yield about 1100 litres of liquid altogether. 
 This fluid, after fermentation, forms "Pulque" the 
 national beverage of the Mexicans, the flavour of which 
 most foreigners find so nauseating. The intoxication 
 produced by pulque is similar in many respects to that 
 caused by opium smoking, the person under the in- 
 fluence of it seeking retirement in a quiet place. The 
 
__ ALOE WOOW 247 
 
 intoxication causctl by mescal is different, niakin<r 
 people nioslU ill-tempered. 
 
 The inner tissue of the Agave inflorescence, which 
 is turned to account in Cannes, consists of laro-e thin- 
 walled cells throufrh whicli run vascular bundles that 
 look like threads to the naked e\-e. A penholder made 
 of this tissue weighs only two grammes, — a qualit^' 
 I very much appreciate. 
 
 The "Aloe wood"", which the Old Testament con- 
 stantly praises and mentions amongst the most costlv 
 varieties of frankincense, is not in an\- way related to 
 tlie Agave nor to the true Aloe. It seems to have been 
 obtained principally from Aqiiillaria A^-a//oc/ni, a large 
 tree in Further India, which, like our perfumed species 
 of Daphne, belongs to the ThA'melaceae. The agreeable 
 odour of the wood is due to tlie resin of which it con- 
 tains but a small quantity. In order to improve the 
 quality of frankincense it is extracted from the wood 
 fibres by tlie process of maceration. Xaturalh- this kind 
 of frankincense was never sold in large c|uantities. and 
 in ancient times it formed a suitable gift for a prince. 
 Thus --Aloe wood'" was not lacking among the man^- 
 costly presents which Catarina Cornaro, the celebrated 
 Queen of Cyprus, received in 147() from Kaitbai, the 
 Sultan of Egypt. \\\ the temples of India this incense is still 
 burnt for ceremonial jnirposes. Xapoleon I was so fond 
 of this perfume, that he ordered '-Aloe wood"" to be 
 burnt in his palace. 
 
 The inhabitants of the western part of Cannes are 
 partly compensated for the excursions to La Maure h\ 
 
248 ■ CANNES. 
 
 the heights of the Croix-des-Gardes. The views are 
 simihir, but a great deal of dust must be swallowed 
 before reaching them. The slopes of the hill, which is 
 490 feet high, are covered with the oldest villas of 
 modern Cannes; there, too, lies the Chateau Eleonore 
 Louise, which laid the foundation of the new health 
 resort. You should not omit to visit the garden of the 
 X'illa La Rochefoucauld, to which strangers are always 
 admitted. It is soon reached hv the road to Frejus. 
 The view of the neighbouring Esterel range between 
 the Palms and Pines of the luxuriant garden, are surpris- 
 inp-h' effective. 
 
 I planned an excursion to the Cap d'Antibes, and 
 rose at da\'break so as to have as much time as 
 possible before me. \Mien I went to the window and 
 opened the shutters, alas ! I found the sk^' overcast. 
 The sun must have just risen. I stood doubtfully at the 
 window wondering \vhether the sun would succeed in 
 dispersing the clouds. Blue rifts appeared and raised 
 io^•ful hopes. Soon the\' disappeared again and the 
 depressing feeling came over me anew that it might 
 remain thus sad and drear\' the live -long day. Yet 
 once more the clouds grew lighter and began to move 
 hither and thither in heavv masses like an agitated sea. 
 Suddenly they broke in several places, and through 
 their gilded edges the clear sk\- peeped fortii. It seemed 
 almost as if there were a conflagration in the heights 
 above, which was sending down long burning rays 
 through the openings in the clouds to set earth and sea 
 aflame. Now there were bright patches on the sea; 
 
H.\r ri.RIA AND SUN LIGHT. 249 
 
 thon the lies tie Leriiis on llie dark waves blushed in 
 the ros\- litj^ht. and the summits ot tlie V^sterel were 
 aii^low. and Old L'annes seemed ablaze. (jraduali\- the 
 clouds thinned, xieldiuir to the victorious sun. then the\' 
 dissolved into i^olden mist and vanished, and the whole 
 skA- was full of radiance. 
 
 ^^ e follow the road to Antibes. wliicli is now il- 
 lumined b\ the sun. This abundance of light ^"laddens 
 the heart, raises new hopes, and certainh- contributes 
 much towards healing the sick who sojourn here. Such 
 is the cheering influence of the sunlight. It is more- 
 over a powerful antiseptic, for it destroys the germs ot 
 those lower organisms which are engendered b\' putri- 
 laction and decomposition. Experiments have pro\ed that 
 bacteria can be completeh" destroyed b^• sunlight. If 
 some of these be placed in the sunlight, and others 
 kept in the shade, the former will be killed while the 
 latter will continue to increase. In like manner intense 
 sunlight disinfects the washing and clothing of sick people. 
 and it also purifies lakes and rivers, provided that the 
 water is not so heavih* charged with impurities as to 
 prevent the raws of light from penetrating. The germs 
 also which float in the air are mosth' killed b\- sunlight. 
 \'er^' true is the Italian j:)roverb which sa\s, "'Dove non 
 entra il sole, entra il medico"'. Were this sa\ing not true, 
 man^' southern countries would be filled with un- 
 endurable miasmas, and infectious diseases would incessanth- 
 devastate them. How little do the^• trouble in the South 
 about disinfecting I Modern hvgiene is the child of northern 
 latitudes, and it is in those countries where the sun is so 
 
250 BACTERIA AND SUNLIGHT. 
 
 frequenth' shrouded in mist that the necessity' for careful 
 attention to cleanHness and comfort is most urgently felt. 
 While we clean our rooms most carefulh' and disinfect 
 ever\\vhere, the southerner opens wide his windows and 
 lets the sun's rays penetrate throughout the house. For 
 this it is necessary- that the sk^' continue clear. The 
 germs of bacteria that are exposed to intense sunHght 
 can onh- withstand its effect for a short time. Eyen the 
 germs of Bacillus aiithracis, that dangerous bacterium 
 which produces a fatal distemper in sheep and cattle, 
 loses its power of multiphing in a very few hours. An 
 English botanist, Marshall \\'ard. conceived the idea of 
 demonstrating this effect of light on bacteria germs by 
 photograpliA-. He spread gelatine containing germs of 
 bacteria on a glass plate and placed this in the sun 
 behind a perforated sheet of tin. After a few hours he 
 brought the glass plate into a dark warm room where 
 it remained for some time. In all the spots on the glass 
 plate that were behind the perforations in the tin, 
 and which consequenth' the sunlight would affect, the 
 bacteria had developed no lurther and were killed: but 
 on the shaded parts the\' not onh- had not suffered, but 
 were increasing rapidh' and marked the gelatine accord- 
 ingh'. Thus it was that the pattern of the perforations 
 was distincth' recognised on the gelatine. Positive prints 
 can be obtained \i\ means of bacteria even from ordinary- 
 photographic negatives, provided the experiment be per- 
 formed with particularh' sensitive germs. Purple bacteria 
 from the Thames, when placed behind glass negatives, 
 have produced pictures of English landscapes which 
 
CLEAR ATMOSPHERE. 
 
 251 
 
 were tjiiite recognisable, though not sharply defined. — 
 The wliole road to Antibes was now dazzlingly bright 
 
 in \\hich all things 
 the sun is high in 
 The shadows grew 
 
 with that glare 
 are steeped when 
 the heavens, 
 shorter and 
 darker on the 
 chalk\' - white 
 road , the 
 half shad- 
 ows becominsf 
 bluer in tone. 
 The groups of Palms 
 in the gardens shone 
 like the magic 
 decorations in a 
 fair\- scene. All Nature 
 was celebrating a sun- 
 festival and this 
 happy feeling was 
 also shared bA' us. 
 There are but few places 
 in Europe that enjo\' such 
 abundance of light. On this golden 
 coast the Mediterranean ma\' 
 boast itself the mirror of 
 The clear atmosphere 
 
 bourhood of Nice is onh- to be equalled 
 b\- that of X'alencia and Alicante, ^^'hereas 
 in Paris the view trom the I'.iffel tower extends, Laurus nobiUs. 
 
252 RAINFALL. 
 
 under the most favourable conditions, only a hundred 
 kilometres, here, strange to sav, the jagged summits 
 of Corsica, distant more than two hundred kilometres, 
 may frequently be seen. For this reason Mont Gros, 
 near Nice, was rightly chosen as the site of an astrono- 
 mical observatory. In Nice there are on an average 
 only sixt\'- seven rainy days in the course of the ^'ear. 
 The rain does not last long, but is frequently as heavy 
 as in the tropics. This spring, during our live weeks' 
 stay, from the middle of March to the latter half 
 of April, we had only three days of continuous rain 
 to record. In fact during the whole time we were 
 bathed in light. 
 
 The road led us past Golfe Jouan to Jouan les Pins, 
 and now w'e followed the wude curve of the baA' under 
 Pine trees. Our gaze rested either on the Esterel mountains 
 or on the lies de Lerins, or lost itself on the trackless sea. 
 These views were the same familiar ones that had grown 
 so dear, but alwa\'s in new settings. We reached the 
 Cap and walked into the gardens of the Hotel du Cap. 
 Little is altered here, the same luxuriant vegetation and 
 the same fragrant scent of the Maquis. But some curious 
 buildings on the extreme point of the tongue of land 
 appear strange to us. Can the Saracens again have 
 conquered the land and settled on the Cap, for those 
 are certainly Moorish buildings that rise to view? A 
 Mosque raises its slender minaret aloft. The point of 
 the Cap is separated from the Hotel by a wall, which 
 fortunately is broken through, and nothing hinders us 
 from proceeding further. 
 
CAP MARTIN. 
 
 ll was not a Saraci'ii but a Parisian who had these 
 huiidiiii^s erected. 1 h' died bet()re his work, was coni- 
 ]")leted, and his wisli to be buried here was not lullilled 
 as the French ( j\~)\-ernnient j:)rohibited the interment at 
 the Caji. 
 
 So tliese oriental buildini^s will in the coLU'se ot time 
 disappear - i:)erha]")S crumble into ruins which some 
 da\" ma\- be pointed out as Saracen I Hut the fishermen, 
 from whom the shore is being filched awa\' piece by 
 piece, are again taking possession of the point of the 
 Cap. and with undisguised satisfaction liave destro\ed 
 the wall that barred their wa\' to the rocks, where from 
 tlieir childhood the\- had been accustomed to fish. And 
 the visitor to tlie Cap d'Antibes can agaii^ ramble un- 
 hindered among these rugged rocks and listen to the 
 mvsterious murmuring of the waves in their cracks and 
 fissures. 
 
 CHAPTER \^III. 
 
 A tew thi\-s later we quitted Cannes and took up 
 our abode at Cap Martin. Some time ago an English 
 compan\- acquired this whole promontor\- and built an 
 hotel here which is one of the most comfortable on the 
 Riviera. It is to be regretted that the most beautiful 
 spots on this coast have been sacrificed to the speculator, 
 but fortunateh" one does not feel this with regard to Cap 
 Martin. For the English compan\- have wiseh' preserved 
 its original character, and with much taste and ingenuity 
 turned the tnie wood of Aleppo Pines which cover it 
 into a still finer English park. The\' have spared every 
 
254 CAP MARTIN. 
 
 single tree and left the Maquis on the western shore in 
 its primitive condition, onh- putting in foreign plants 
 discreeth'. The Hotel stands on the high ground at the 
 southern end of the Cap, but is still enclosed b^- the woods, 
 of which onlv as much has been removed as was abso- 
 luteh' necessary- for the building of the house. The land, 
 too. on the Cap is onh' sold under conditions which bind 
 the new tenants to protect the woods. The newl\- built 
 villas in the woods are scarceh- \isible, and it is onh- b\- 
 climbing the heights commanding the Cap that the>' 
 can be seen. From the I h')tel the paths that encircle 
 the whole Cap can be followed without hindrance. The 
 main road leading to Mentone runs along the eastern 
 shore. It is dustA' and on this account to be avoided as 
 much as possible b^' pedestrians. This is easih' done b^- 
 turning into the roads that run through the wood along 
 the ridge of the Cap. Rut the foot-path along the western 
 side of the Cap is most attractive and quite free from 
 dust. It skirts the shore through long stretches of Pine 
 trees and aromatic bushes. This walk is so charrninpf 
 and affords such a varietA- of views, that one never tires 
 of it. The path leads up and down over broken masses 
 of rock, always in close proximit\- to the sea. It is 
 bordered bv Myrtle, Pistachia (Fig. p. 349j and Rose- 
 Vl\7s.x\ (Fig. p. 37 1). There, too, the evergreen Buck- 
 thorn {JRhaiiiniis Alafernus, Fig. p. 367), \\ith its dark 
 berries, grows in abundance. Besides these there was 
 the interesting Cneoriini Iricocanii, (Fig. p. 107), with 
 small A'ellow flowers, which we had seen growing in the 
 Maquis at Antibes : and the strong-smelling Rue, that has 
 
C".\r MARTIN. 255 
 
 alrcach untolded its umbels oi yQ\U)\\'\sh-<rrccn llowers. 
 At t.'\cM-\- turn rocks ot different sliapes jut fortli from 
 the sea in endless variet\- : their sides are bro\\ n and 
 their tops powdered, as it were, with white. Pine trees 
 cling' to tlieni. bending inquisitiveh' over the water, seeming 
 to watch the ever-changing pla\' of the waves. Ever\-- 
 w lu-re the silver-crested breakers, here deep blue, there 
 briglit green, and \onder of a violet tint. Xow 
 tishing boats scurr\- past, brillianth- illuminated b^■ the 
 sunshine, their oars appearing to dip into molten metal 
 which falls from them in glittering- dro]')S. Extensi\e 
 views of the coast open out: Monte Carlo sloping up 
 genth' from the sea, then Monaco on its steep rock, and 
 above them, as though on guard, the giant "-Tete de 
 Chien". Close b}', clinging to the mountain side like a 
 nest, is Roccabruna, surrounded b\' (Grange groves and 
 set amidst C^•press and Carob trees. 
 
 The aspect and moods of the Cap change hourh- 
 In the earU- morning, when the sun is still in the east, 
 it is pleasant to stroll here in the shade of the trees 
 and of the steep banks. We wander up and down the 
 rocks, now close to the beach, now high above the sea, 
 then again down to the shore where the waves roll up 
 to our feet. Hut before long we have to change our 
 ground, tor the Cap does not point due south Init 
 south-east, so that the sun's ra\s soon strike the western 
 slope. Then there is welcome shade on the eastern 
 shore. Between the dust\- road and the sea is a rock\- 
 strip overgrown with I^incs where it is possible to rest 
 free from dust. I lere also the shore is deeply fissured 
 
256 FISHING AT CAP MARTIN. 
 
 and forms a varied foreground to the scene which is 
 disclosed to view on the opposite side of the ba^^ The 
 Pines bend over the rocks and stretch their brandies 
 towards the sea, thus encircling Mentone and the high 
 peaks above it, or La Mortola, or again Bordighera 
 with their green foliage. We used to sit for hours on 
 these rocks, book in hand, often looking up from its 
 pages awav over the blue water. vSometimes the tisher- 
 men attracted our attention : the\' were watching for 
 lish near by. One of them sat above the rocks on a 
 stand made of three stakes bound together, and gazed 
 intently into the water; others waited in a boat read\' 
 to draw in the nets at a given signal. These were 
 fastened to an empty boat placed cross -ways thus 
 forming a triangle that was open on one side. As soon 
 as the fisherman on the look out above perceived that 
 the fish had entered the triangle, he pulled a rope so 
 that the net closed across the open end. The boat then 
 sped swiftly to the shore and cut off all means of 
 retreat for the fish ; the nets were then drawn in, 
 capturing a few small fishes. Sometimes onh' one 
 struggling creature was brought to land. The patience 
 of these men astonished us. They would sit for hours 
 in the boat without stirring. The live -long day the 
 watcher w^ould remain perched on his p\ramid of stakes, 
 and apparently the time did not hang heavy on his 
 hands. What a contrast to people like ourselves, who 
 live in a whirl of continual activity and excitement, 
 leaving no moment unemployed, and at last compelled 
 to come hither to rest our jaded nerves! The man on 
 
CAP MxVRTlN. 
 
 257 
 
 his p^ 
 remiiK 
 very much 
 
 of a sea eagle that I once saw- 
 perched on a soHtar\' crag h\ the 
 shore at Antibes. He, too, sat 
 long and patienth' gazing into 
 the water, without even moving his 
 head, then suddenh- swooped down like 
 an arrow into the sea and soared up 
 again to the clouds with a fish in his 
 talons. 
 
 The hotel at Cap Martin towers 
 above the trees of the wood. To the 
 south we look out over the open sea : 
 to the north, above the arched domes of 
 the wood, we command a vie\\' of the 
 whole of the mountain chain that shelters 
 this strip of coast. These might\- mountains 
 are ranged in line from Mt. Agel in the west 
 to the Berceau in the east. l^he loftiest limestone 
 giants are in the middle, piercing the blue sk\- with 
 
258 SUNSET AT CAP MARTIN. 
 
 their sharp crests. We gazed at them every evening 
 when the sinking sun tinged their summits with 
 pink, till peak after peak gradually faded. And 
 often towards evening we would descend to the eastern 
 shore to see the coast lighted up. When Mentone 
 is already buried in deep shadow Old Bordighera 
 is still artame with purple light — a favourite of the 
 sun on this golden coast it receives his last greeting at 
 eventide. 
 
 After night-fall we would again go down to the 
 shore to see the lights of Mentone and Monte Carlo. 
 Monte Carlo, in particular, looks quite fairv-like; 
 thousands of lights are crowded together round the 
 foot of the mountain which stands out darkh- against 
 the starr^' skv. I used often to contemplate this view 
 and feel as if I had seen it before in the past. But 
 where and when? I could not remember. Then sud- 
 denh' I saw it again vividh' before me — the old 
 picture just as I had looked on it with childish eyes. 
 It was a coloured picture of Naples in a little panorama 
 given me once on Christmas Eve. When held against a 
 light, innumerable little flames lit up Naples and excited 
 my childish fancy ; these were produced by pinpricks 
 perforating the picture. As in that view Camaldoli 
 commands Naples so does the Tete de Chien tower 
 above Monte Carlo : and as the lights shone from Posi- 
 lipo, so did they also here on the rocks of Monaco. 
 How wonderfully strong these childish impressions are ! 
 What has not this harried brain had to take in since 
 then ! And yet the old impression was not effaced, but 
 
(MJ\^i:S A T CAP MARTIN. 259 
 
 onl\ donnant. and revived ai^ain when a touch Ironi 
 outside iirouolit it back to consciousness. 
 
 The spot where Cap Martin joins the coast is 
 covered with beautiful old Olive trees. There they 
 stand with tlieir fantastically gnarled stems, of which 
 no two are alike. On this coast the farther vou get 
 from the ICsterel the larger and finer they become. 
 What a difference between the miserable trees at the 
 moutli of the Rhone and these giants raising their 
 crowns proudh' aloft I \\'e must see them thus to value 
 and love them ; and the abundance of light in this 
 sunn\- district is also necessarA' that their foliage may 
 not appear grey and sad but silver\' and bright. This 
 is wh^■ the Olive grove forms so characteristic an 
 element in this landscape. The leaves of the tree are 
 not large, and as its foliage never grows dense a soft 
 twilight of peculiar charm reigns in the Olive groves. 
 Ever\- breatli of wind stirs their leaves, and the 
 lights tremble on the trees and flicker like fireflies over 
 the ground, animating the solitude. 
 
 In spite of its apparenth' exposed situation Cap Martin 
 is well sheltered froni tiie Mistral and from the north 
 wind and lies open onh- to the south and east. 
 The sevent\- of last winter has proved that the high 
 mountains to the north and west of the Cap form a most 
 effective barrier against the cold. Scarcely- any snow 
 Idv on the Cap when Mentone was covered, and neither 
 the Bougainvillias nor the Heliotropes at the Hotel suffered. 
 Plants are the surest indicators of climate. In most places 
 on the Riviera last winter the Bougainvillias and Hclio- 
 
 11 
 
260 LEM ON GROVES AT MENTONE. 
 
 tropes were frozen, or lost their foliage. The size of the 
 Bush Spurges { Euphorbia dciidroides) growing all over 
 the western slope of Cap Martin proves how favourable 
 are the climatic conditions. Only in the south of Sardinia 
 can larger specimens be found. The luxuriant Lemon 
 groves close b^' in Mentone bear witness to the mildness 
 of the climate in this region. The Lemon cannot endure 
 a temperature lower than — 5° C. Its fruits freeze at 
 — 3" C. Imagine the agitation of the people last winter 
 when the thermometer repeatedh' sank below zero. The 
 owner of a large Lemon plantation told me that in the 
 cold nights he had stood for hours watching the thermo- 
 meter, in great anxiety lest the mercur\' should fall still 
 lower. Half a degree more and the whole ^'ear"s crop 
 would be lost; indeed in man\' places in Mentone last 
 winter the lemons were frozen but fortunately not the trees. 
 This occurred chietI^' at the entrances to the valleys where 
 there is insufficient shelter from the north. Lemon trees 
 should never be planted in such spots: but after many 
 mild winters in succession people become forgetful and 
 take no precautions. As a rule the cold north winds do 
 not touch the coast, but reach the sea a few kilometres 
 from it, and it often happens that the sea out there is 
 quite storm^' while perfect calm reigns on the coast. At 
 Mentone the Orange trees, too, have stood this winter 
 very well. With a cloudy sky the fruit will stand — 4" C 
 and the cold must remain at — 6° C for some time to 
 kill the tree. This is the reason why Orange trees, but 
 not Lemons, are to be seen at Cannes: even at Golfe 
 Jouan the foliage of the former was partly frozen. The 
 
SIRoeXX). 261 
 
 Carob. loo. is exceedingly sensitive to a low temperature 
 as is pro\ed by its liner de\elopnient in a warmer climate. 
 \o larger and more luxuriant specimens can be found 
 anywhere on the Riviera than on the stretch of coast 
 between Mllefranche and San Remo. 
 
 To strangers it appears remarkable when, towards 
 spring, the usually hot and dry vSirocco on the Ponente 
 is accompanied by snow. This seldom happens unless 
 the high mountains of Corsica are heavih- laden with 
 snow. It is not. however, real snow that falls then but 
 sleet, which is here called "neige de Corse". 
 
 Scarcely an\- deciduous trees are to be seen along 
 the tract of land from X'illefranche to San Remo. We 
 are therefore less forcibly reminded of winter here than 
 fiu-ther south — even at Naples. There the Fig and 
 \'ine predominate and Posilipo in March appeared to us 
 almost barer than the Rhine valley which we had recentlv 
 left. The nights were bright with moonlight now, and 
 the mountains shone with a magic glamour: the^• formed 
 a grand amphitheatre, and their serrated summits showed 
 like fine lace-work against the sky, while deep down 
 below twinkled the lights of Mentone. 
 
 This full moon was to usher in Easter. In the evening 
 we went down to the shore to watch it rise. All was dark 
 on the rocks and sea, and solitude and silence reigned 
 supreme. The wide sea la\- slumbering before us. Above 
 us stretched the vast dome of heaven, almost black, but 
 sprinkled with untold stars that were reflected from the 
 surface of the deep in silvery streaks. Xature seemed 
 in a state of tension, as though awaiting an event about 
 
 11* 
 
262 MOONRISE. 
 
 to happen; it was so still and solemn ever\'where. not 
 even a blade of grass trembled. The Pines hung' over 
 the waters as if listening for some distant sound. The balm\- 
 fragrance of the Maquis spread softh' to the sea. offering 
 sweet incense. It ma^■ have been that our souls onh' 
 were full of expectation and that we imbued the whole 
 wide world with this feeling. 
 
 Suddenlv a red streak rose in the east above the 
 water. It increased in breadth and soon cast the first 
 bright beam over the black tlood as if to caress it. The 
 waters seemed to thrill under this rav and then rocked 
 it softlv on their broad bosom. At last the moon emerged 
 entirelv from the sea; her countenance was flushed like 
 one refreshed from sleep. Distorted at first and some- 
 what strange, her disc soon became round and silverv 
 and she shed her full beams over the wavelets of the sea. 
 The stars paled as she rose higher; onh" the largest of 
 them could still look her in the face, the others were lost 
 in the depths of the heavens. Where the wavelets lapped 
 the rocks of the strand it sparkled and glittered as if 
 all the m\riad stars that had disappeared from the heavens 
 had cast themselves into the deep. A broad river of silver 
 flowed from the shore to the distant horizon, broken here 
 and there bv smooth streaks which changed colours like 
 an opal. Duskv barques passing b^' dipped into this 
 stream of moonlight — dark silhouettes on a silver ground. 
 The moon rose higher and higher above the water and 
 continued her triumphant course in a wide curve through 
 the skv. Her light soon began to penetrate the deepest 
 recesses of the shore and to illuminate the fissured rocks 
 
CAP MARTIN. 
 
 263 
 
 capped waves of a 
 
 stormy sea had been 
 
 turned to stone, or J^M like 
 
 Alpine glacier with Jpy its crevasses; 
 
 or \onder again, \f out of 
 
 small rocky grottoes, the ima- 
 gination would conjure up an Arabian 
 burial place, and there, linalh-. 
 a hand of pilgrims in white 
 garments, wandering from the 
 wood\' heights above towards the 
 sea. All the ba^■s are scintillating 
 with lights, whose reflections float 
 on the surface or plunge beneath 
 the deep, intermingling or again sepi 
 continuous pla\'. 
 
 During Easter -tide there was a storm from 
 the north. It flung itself v/ith unusual forci' 
 
 against the rock\ ijiants that shelter Mentone. ' i 
 
 ■ ■ [ 
 
 endeavouring to overcome their resistance. Then a \J 
 
 mighty struggle arose between these Titans and the 
 
 unlettered elements. The winds hissed and howled 
 
 and we saw rougli winter raging overhead while we 
 
264 CAP MARTIN. 
 
 were still in the midst of gentle spring. The north 
 wind flung snow at the heads of the rocky giants 
 and at times they almost seemed to be giving way, 
 A cold current of air passed over the Cap. The Aleppo 
 Pines shook their heads gravelv and the waves of the 
 sea with foaming manes fled terrified from the land. 
 Long into the night the headland heaved and trembled. 
 Then all was still. Soon the stars shone fortli and the 
 next morning the giant peaks above Mentone, now clothed 
 in snow and radiant in the golden sunshine, proudly 
 raised their rocky heads conscious of victory. 
 
 But unfortunately this sunshine was not to last; the 
 balance of the atmosphere was disturbed. An east wind 
 soon set in with bad weather. This made it easier 
 for us to leave the Riviera. Heavy rain-drops moistened 
 the parched earth, and we left under the fond delusion 
 that this sky, so dear to us, was weeping tears at our 
 departure. 
 
FOl KTH JOURNEY. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 INature had decked herself with 
 greater hixuriance than usual on 
 the Riviera this spring. From a 
 distance the gardens looked like 
 gigantic posies, and man^' 
 of the houses were com- 
 pleteh' hidden under masses of 
 Bougainvillia, Heliotrope and 
 Roses. We drove from 
 \'entimiglia to Mentone: it was like passing under 
 triumphal arches, and as if the roads had been decorated 
 with garlands of llowers in our honour. Roses of all 
 colours covered the hedges, clambering to the tops of 
 the trees to unfold in fuller splendour and hanging down 
 
266 MENTONE. 
 
 in wavy festoons which were stirred by every breath of 
 air. Yet I had never before felt so sad in the midst of 
 such a profusion of gcty flowers, and when we reached the 
 Pont St. Louis and saw the fair\'-Hke picture of Mentone 
 outlined against the blue sky, my eyes turned to the 
 ruined Castle of the Grimaldis above the town, — the 
 cemetery, where under gav Roses the dead are at rest. 
 I was accompanying an invalid, who was dangerously 
 ill, to Mentone. and looked forward to the near future 
 with apprehension and sorrow. Therefore I sought to 
 distract my thoughts from the sad train which they were 
 apt to follow, by occupying myself as much as possible 
 with scientific work. The sublime scenes by which I 
 was surrounded had a soothing effect on me as has 
 always been the case. In contemplating the trackless 
 sea and the sk\'-capped mountains a ra\' of the bright 
 Riviera sunshine would now and then, for a few moments, 
 penetrate to m^' inmost heart. 
 
 The Maquis has in a great measure disappeared 
 from Mentone, but it is still to be found in limited patches, 
 nor need we go far in order to reach it. It is best 
 represented on the ridge which is crowned b\' the old 
 convent of the Annonciade. But the view from this spot 
 does not attract me: I prefer the ridge on which pictur- 
 esque old Castellar rises. Leaving the main street of 
 Mentone near the Place Xationale we turn into the Rue 
 de Castellar, cross the railway b\' a bridge and begin 
 the steep ascent. The first plant we notice here, as 
 elsewhere, is the hone\'- scented Alysszini niaritiiuuin 
 growing on the walls, L^nassumingly it unfolds its thick 
 
\\'ALK T O CAvSTELLAR. 267 
 
 clusters ot" llowers all through the winter. The \ell()\v 
 anthers protrude troni the little white blossoms, which 
 have tour crossed petals. At tu'st the\' are seen against 
 a bright green ground, but this, as well as the stamens, 
 becomes brownish red later so that the older flowers 
 show a dark centre. Hie path continues over bare rocks, 
 but soon we are surrounded hv Lavender (Fig. p. 257), 
 Cisius (Fig. p. 8.V), Tree Heath (Fig. p. 175), Rhaiunus 
 (Fig. p. 367), c\nd Phillxrea (Fig. p. 343), and before long 
 come across one or other of those beautiful orchids in 
 which the countr\' round Mentone is so rich. Here also 
 is a species of Spurge-Laurel, Daphne Gnidiiini (Fig. 
 p. 163). a bright green bush, striking on account of its 
 almost vertical branches which are covered the whole of 
 their length with erect linear leaves. In spring this busli 
 is onh' seen in leaf, for the sweet-scented flowers do not 
 appear till summer. The elegant Selaginella denticidata 
 clings to the dark ground on the banks of the roads. 
 We grow this little bright green plant in our conserva- 
 tories at home to cover rock-work or le\'el spots, as 
 with a green sward. It is a cr\-ptogam, the spores of 
 which are enclosed in cases borne on spicate shoots which 
 grow in the axils of the scale-like leaves. 
 
 The path soon leads into a Pine wood, then through 
 an Olive grove, continualh- revealing new aspects of that 
 noble mountain panorama which makes Mentone one of 
 the most glorious spots on the Riviera. The visitor to 
 Mentone should begin his rambles with this excursion; 
 it will introduce him at once to the full splendour of this 
 landscape. 
 
268 GORBIO VALLEY. 
 
 I never fail to walk up the valle^' of Gorbio as far 
 as the western ridge whence the descent can be made 
 to Roccabruna. Half way to Gorbio a road branches off 
 leading out of the valley up to the new Sanatorium for 
 Consumptives which lies in a ver^• sheltered situation on 
 a wooded slope 825 feet high. The great white building 
 is conspicuous from a distance. It was only finished in 
 1900 and every care was taken to fit it up with all the 
 latest modern hygienic appliances. May it be successful 
 in prolonging the lives of nian\' and perhaps in com- 
 pletely curing some ! The shattered cross that used to 
 stand on the slope above Gorbio has been replaced b\' 
 a stone one, the civilisation of the coast reaching even 
 to these heights. L^nfortunateh- one can no longer enjo^' 
 the peaceful quiet and the glorious views here without 
 being disturbed by shooting which makes the mountains 
 re-echo. If you walk on farther you ma^' be suddenly 
 stopped by warning cries, and have to wait until the 
 road is declared clear again. A shooting range has been 
 made up here on the ridge for the C/iassenrs Alpi'ns 
 who are garrisoned at Cap Martin, and it bars the way. 
 Fortunately target practice does not take place every 
 day so that one can frequently enjoy, unmolested, the 
 endless views of the coast from the ridge, and yield to 
 the powerful impressions which they create. However 
 often we may look on this scene it ever surprises and 
 delights us anew ; for it is of surpassing beauty and too 
 vast for the memory to retain it all. But we are always 
 fascinated by that mighty pointed rock that rises so 
 majestically from the midst of its companions near Mentone. 
 
THE FIG-TREE. 269 
 
 and tliat bears on its steep summit tlie villa<ice ot" St. 
 Ag'nese : tor a wilder, more romantic and tantastic picture 
 could hardh' be seen an\\\here. 
 
 ClIAPll^R II. 
 
 Recent ]:)ublications containintr new discoveries and 
 facts about tlie singular liabit of tlie Fiir-tree inchiced 
 me to turn m\- attention to it more closeh'. It was just 
 sprouting, and bore on its twigs the ^•oung fruits which 
 had been on the tree all winter. 
 
 The cultivation of the Fig-tree dates so far back 
 that in this respect it ma\' rank with the Olive and the 
 \'ine. 
 
 In the poetical and metaphorical language of the 
 ancients the Fig-tree was called the "brother of the 
 \'ine". Formerly Attica boasted that, next to Sik^•on, 
 she produced the best tigs. In Greece wine and tigs 
 were common necessaries of life for both poor and rich, 
 and an Attic idler would be quite content to loiter through 
 the dixv. h'ing in the sun or shade according to the 
 season of the vear, if he had a few dried tigs. Jucus 
 J^uiin'iialis, the tree under which Romulus and Remus 
 were suckled bv the she-wolf, shows how ancient was the 
 tradition of the Fig-tree on Italian soil, .\ccording to 
 Count zu Solms-Laubach's researches, the Italian Fig-tree 
 was not introduced from Greece, nor can its cultivation 
 in Greece and Rome have had the same origfin. Palae- 
 ontological discoveries prove tliat Kicks Carira, the 
 primitive plant from which the cultivated species are 
 derived, was wideh' spread in the Quaternar\- epoch 
 
270 CAPRIFIG. 
 
 over the western part of the Mediterranean region. It 
 also seems probable that this plant migrated from the 
 East across the Mediterranean. But this happened in 
 prehistoric times before it had begun to be cultivated. 
 
 The earliest description of the Fig-tree mentions 
 two distinct varieties : the one \'ielding edible figs, the 
 other unpalatable fruits. Even in ancient times the tree 
 with the uneatable fruits was called "Caprificus", which 
 means Goat-fig or Buck-fig; and the singular influence 
 which the Caprifig exerts over the ripening of the edible 
 figs was alreadv known. Pliny writes: — "The^■ call the 
 wild Fig-tree Caprificus : its fruits never ripen, but it 
 imparts to other fruits that which it itself lacks: for 
 Nature distributes the creative powers at her discretion, 
 and she is able to engender new forms of life even out 
 of corruption itself. Thus the wild Fig-tree produces 
 flies which leave the deca\'ing fruits of the maternal 
 tree, as these can afford them no more nourishment. 
 These flies then attack the cultivated tree, bite open its 
 fruits greedih' and force their waA' into their interior, 
 thus admitting as much warmth and sunlight into the 
 figs as is necessary- to ripen them". 
 
 Herodotus appears also to have known of this "capri- 
 fication". Aristotle described it fulh'. and \et onlv 
 recent investigations have been able to make clear his 
 meaning. Indeed, the true connection of the Caprifig 
 with the edible iigs has onh' quite lately been discovered. 
 
 Even the northerner is familiar with the aspect of 
 the Fig-tree, for we often grow it in tubs, if not in the 
 open ground. Thus centuries ago — in 1561 — Conrad 
 
THK fk;. 
 
 271 
 
 Gesnor, in his '"Ilorii (iernia- 
 niae", ciuinierated the I''i< 
 among tlic plants culti\atccl 
 in Gernian\-, and added that 
 in the ijarden at Strassbur<j 
 it bore ripe figs in 
 its second \car. 
 
 Figs are com- 
 monh- supposed to be 
 single fruits and tlie 
 grains inside them seeds. But 
 as a matter of fact the fig is a singular y 
 and very complicated structure. This had 
 been noticed by Albertus Magnus, for he remarked 
 tliat the Fig-tree produced figs without lowering. The 
 lig is really an infructescence, while the "seeds" represent 
 the true fruits. The tasty pulp of tlie lig consists of 
 the succulent receptacle on which tlie fruits grow. The 
 % is therefore a curiously adapted inflorescence, which, 
 instead of displaying its tlowers on twigs, develops into 
 
 )ranched structure closed 
 ts apex like an urn and 
 producing Howers on 
 its inner surface. — 
 The Capriiig generalh- 
 bears tliree crops of 
 fruit a year, the edible 
 Fig onlv two. This cir- 
 cumstance is also recorded 
 b\' the ancients. The 
 
FIG-WASP. 
 
 fruits of the Caprifig produced in October generally ripen 
 in April. Then the second crop begins, and ends in June or 
 July; then the third which lasts all through the summer. All 
 these Caprifigs bear carpellary flowers in their inner cavity; 
 but these are singularly modified, for they possess only 
 undeveloped carpels which are not adapted either for 
 pollination or fructification, but for forming galls. In 
 most Caprifigs there are, at the upper end of the cavitv 
 close imder the aperture, normal pollen-forming staminate 
 flowers. These are never missing in those fruits which 
 ripen in June and July, and it is these which are generally 
 called "Profichi" in Italy. But all three crops of fruit 
 are uneatable, and, even when ripe, are milky tough and 
 contain no sugar. They are inhabited by a kind of wasp, 
 Blastophaga grossorum. These get into the Caprifig 
 through the aperture, seek out the imperfect carpellary 
 flowers, and lay an ^^'g in each. A white larva is hatched 
 from the ^gg, while the carpel itself swells up into a gall. 
 In this gall the larva pupates and then the fully deve- 
 loped wasp bites a hole in the gall and sets itself free. 
 The males come out first, and the females, when fertilised, 
 make their way to the orifice to leave the fig. At the 
 same time the staminate flowers shed their pollen and 
 the wasps are dusted with it as they push through. It 
 occasionally happens that a Caprifig will produce normal 
 carpellary flowers which bear fertile seeds. But this is not 
 the true function of the Caprifig, whose object is to provide 
 accomodation and maintenance for the Blastophagae. 
 The normal carpellary flowers are produced by the true 
 Fig-tree, the one that bears the edible figs. Most of 
 
POLLINATION OL FIG. 273 
 
 tlu' \ai"'u'lics ot Fii*- at prt'seiU uiidcr cultixalion in Ital\' 
 produce perfect carpellar\- llowers onh- in the suninier 
 crop, tor in tlie winter crop tliesc are arrested. All these 
 \arieties of Fii^^ no longer recjiiire i")ollination. and this 
 explains their habit. I^ut wliere, on the contrary, fertil- 
 isation is indispensible, as is the case with the Sm\rna 
 Fig, the carpellar\- llowers are produced in all crops 
 read^• for pollination. This, however, can onlv be per- 
 formed hv the Blastophagae which, laden with pollen 
 from the Caprilig, creep into the cavit^' of the iig on tlie 
 cultivated tree and dust the stigmas of the carpellar^- 
 flowers. Tlie wasp itself derives no benefit from this 
 service as it cannot pierce the ovar^• of a normal car- 
 pellar^' tlower with its ovipositor. It tinalh' lavs an egg 
 between the carpellar\' llowers, but this comes to nothing. 
 Thus the instinct of the wasp has been deceived from 
 time immemorial. The close resemblance of the car- 
 pellar\' fig to the Caprifig has misled them. Moreover 
 the cultivated Fig-tree in some measure treats the 
 deluded wasps genlh' and permits most of tliem to 
 escape. Some tropical b igs act differenth', for the wasps 
 that have forced their wdv into their carpellar\- ligs have 
 to lose their li\'es. 
 
 It ma\- be asked, how is it possible for such a 
 contrivance to continue in Xature? The answer is 
 easih' given. W ithout the sacrifice of tliese wasps, 
 which unwiltingh perform tlie necessar\' pollination of 
 the carpellar\' llowers, this species of wasp would 
 become extinct, for its ver\- existence is bound up 
 with that of the tree. Failing pollination, which nor- 
 
274 THE FIG. __^ 
 
 mally results in the formation of seeds necessary for 
 the preservation of the species, this Fig would have to 
 disappear. Thus a certain number of Blastophag-ae are 
 constantly sacrificed for the advantage of the whole 
 species — one of the many instances showing how little 
 regard Nature has for the life of the individual. The 
 duration of its existence is subordinate to the common 
 interest of the species. 
 
 In plants long cultivated the continued interference 
 of man has not unfrequenth' displaced the original con- 
 trivances that served for the preservation of the species. 
 This is so with several varieties of our Fig-trees. Man 
 has in these cases undertaken the propagation of these 
 plants which are useful to him ; he maintains them b\' 
 grafting and cuttings so that the formation of seeds 
 has become altogether superfluous. This is the reason 
 why most of the varieties of Fig cultivated in Italy, 
 and also on the I'^rench Riviera, no longer require 
 caprification. Their infructescence ripens without pollin- 
 ation and consequently they produce no germinating 
 seeds. The Greek and Turkish fig, and especially those 
 of Smyrna, are quite different in habit. These are 
 pollinated by Blastophagae and their fruits contain 
 seeds from which new plants can be raised. It is not 
 without good reason, therefore, that in Asia Minor 
 Caprifigs are hung among the boughs of the cultivated 
 Fig - trees ; for the wasps which escape from these are 
 necessary. In figs, like those of Smyrna, which are 
 always eaten dried, the nutty flavour due to the seeds 
 is much prized. In the cultivation of this variety of 
 
'HIE FIG. 275 
 
 F'ig, tcrtilisation has not been done a\\a\- with, and il 
 has been much to tlieir ad\antag"e to retain it. 
 
 This was lound b\- experience to hold i^ood wlien 
 the experiment was tried of introducing the cuhi\ation 
 of the Smyrna Fig into America. Man\- thf)usands of 
 trees were phmted in Cahfornia without producing a 
 single fruit during the first nineteen ^•ears. All the 
 young figs fell off. Results were onh- obtained b^• 
 artificial pollination effected hv liaiul. This led to tlie 
 introduction of tlie L'aprilig and the Blastophaga, and 
 since then Sm\rna Figs have been Aielding rich harvests 
 in America. 
 
 The careful stud\' of all these facts, and further 
 investigations of Tropical species of Fig, have resulted 
 in the discoverA- that the Caprifig and the cultivated 
 Fig belong to the same species, that is Ficus Can'ca, 
 and that in realit\- the Caprifig is the staminate, and 
 the cultivated Fig the carpellarv plant : thus we are 
 dealing with a dioecious plant. 
 
 Even in ancient times the varieties of figs were so 
 numerous and continualK- increasing that Pliin" wondered 
 whether tliis plant would not alter witli time. There 
 were alread\' white and black ligs : and next after the 
 Attic figs those from the neighbourhood of Sm\rna 
 w^ere considered the best. The\' came originalh' from 
 the province of Caria which included those districts 
 whence the Sm\-rna figs are now brought to us. This 
 is wliy Linnaeus called the Fig-tree Carian, Ficks 
 Carica. In ancient times Carian figs were brought to 
 Italy just as they are now, dried and packed in boxes. 
 
276 VARIETIES OB^ FIG. 
 
 A botanist of Nice, Dr. Sauvaigo, has recently 
 made a list of the varieties of Fig that are cultivated 
 in the neighbourhood of Nice. He found that there 
 were sixteen; amongst these were white, green, grey, 
 red, black and brown fruits. Of them the "Barnissotte 
 blanche", called in Genoa "Brogiotto bianco", is pre- 
 ferred on account of its Inie flavour. The Genoese are 
 said to have introduced them from Svria at the time 
 of' the Crusades. Near Nice there were trees of the 
 "Barnissotte" that were over thirty- feet high. The 
 Scuderi property at Rimiez boasts of one thirty-six feet 
 high, with a trunk four feet in diameter, and with a 
 spread of forty -live feet. Of the French figs the 
 "Rolandine" is said to be the best suited for drying, 
 and lasth' the longish "Bellone", with very sweet red 
 pulp, is prized as Queen of all figs between Toulon 
 and St. Remo. 
 
 Figs are a wholesome food, though no longer so 
 much valued as in ancient days. In Athens they formed 
 so important an element in the food of the people that 
 during bad harvests their exportation was prohibited to 
 prevent famine. Hence the appointment of officials 
 called "Sycophants", — Fig informers. These gave infor- 
 mation of any infringement of the law, and often used 
 their office as a means of extortion; hence their name 
 came to be identical with informer. 
 
 Figs are about three times as nourishing as bread, 
 this explains their former importance as well as their 
 present value in many districts. In North Africa half 
 the meals of the Kabyles consist only of dried figs; more- 
 
THE FIG. 
 
 277 
 
 over lari^e Iohvos and compressed cakes are made of 
 this truit and sent into the interior of the Sahara. In the 
 neii>-lihoin"hood of Xice wine is made of figs, and the 
 nati\es consider it sweet and palatable. 
 
 It is remarkable that in some districts they still 
 continue to hang up Caprifigs between the branches of 
 such varieties of Fig as have been proved to no longer 
 require })ollination to ripen their fruits. This practice 
 has frequentU' been referred to to show how tenacious 
 are old customs. At the same time this must not be 
 regarded as an entirely useless proceeding. It seems that 
 even when pollination hv the Blastophagae 
 is not necessar^' their stings act 
 as an irritant and thus promote 
 the development of the fig. This 
 would agree with the statement 
 corresponding effects have 
 also been obtained b^• 
 similar irritants. Thus mauA- 
 owners of gardens in Nice 
 are in tlie habit of prickinj 
 of young figs when thev are about 
 the size of the thumb. The\' think 
 that this \vill increase their growth 
 and cause them to ripen more 
 <iuickh-. Others prick the figs, 
 shorth' before thev^ ripen, with 
 a straw or wooden spike which 
 they dip first in the finest Olive oil. 
 
 This is corroborated b\' the 
 
 '.O'litcra Fill/ leva. 
 
278 FICUS HIRTA. 
 
 observations recently made by Mr. Treub, the highlv 
 esteemed Director of the Botanic Gardens in Buitenzor<^, 
 Java, on Ficus Hirta a species of Fig growing there. The 
 infructescence of this species is not pollinated, but in spite 
 of this it develops germinating seeds. Hence it is apparent 
 that this is due to parthenogenesis, that is to say the 
 ovules possess the faculty of developing and germinating 
 without fertilisation. Parthenogenesis has for some time 
 been known to exist in different parts of the Animal World, 
 particularly among insects. And it has also been proved 
 to exist in a few of the lower plants. But until quite 
 recently it was considered not to exist among more 
 highlv organised plants. Now, however, several well 
 authenticated instances have been brought to light, as 
 in the case of Fiais Hirta. Nevertheless a fig -wasp, 
 probably the Blastophaga yavaiia, is necessary for the 
 development of the fruits of this species. Laden with 
 pollen the insects penetrate to the cavity of the carpellary 
 figs of Ficus Hirta. They force their way through the 
 opening with such difficulty that they lose both wings and 
 antennae. Sometimes they do not succeed in reaching 
 the interior of the fig, and perish among the small scales 
 that bar the entrance. When inside the fig they attempt 
 to lay their eggs in the carpels. Finding this impossible 
 they try to get back. The minute pollen grains remain 
 on the stigmas of the flowers and even germinate, but 
 without result since the passage to the ovules is unde- 
 veloped. But the irritation of the Blastophagae, and 
 particularly their attempts to prick the carpel, results in 
 the production of seed and the ripening of the fig. 
 
THE FIG. 279 
 
 It is curious thai at Nice tlie\- manure I^ii^-trces 
 with ver\- siniihir substances tt) those with wliicli tlie\' 
 manure the 01i\es at Bordighera. Tliex' consider that 
 those substances are the best which decay slowl\' in 
 the ground. Pounded bones, jiaper cuttings, road 
 sweepings, horn parings, woollen rags, j^ieces of leather 
 and even the rubbish tVom old houses may frequently 
 be seen biu'ied at tlie foot of Fig-trees. 
 
 Here and tliere wild Fig-trees are met with on tlie 
 Riviera. These are found even as far north as Bozen. 
 Who can say whether in remote places some of these 
 trees may not be realh' wild? They generalh^ grow 
 out from clefts in tlie rock and spread their foliage 
 gracefully over the cliff. In earh' spring the^• are still 
 leafless and stretch forth their crooked clums^' branches 
 fantastically, like weird arms about to capture their pre\-. 
 
 Besides the Smyrna Fig the best varieties of Date 
 Palm have been lately introduced into the United 
 States. The U. S. Department of Agriculture in Wash- 
 ington devotes special attention to work of this kind, 
 and men appointed as "Assistants'" in the "Division of 
 Vegetable Ph\'siology and Pathology", or as ''Agri- 
 cultural Explorers" in the "Bureau of Plant Industry", 
 are entrusted with the carr^•ing out of these experiments. 
 These are scientifically trained botanists, who have first 
 mastered the theoretical part of the subject and still 
 keep up these studies side by side with their practical 
 work. Two of the "Assistants" now usefulh' em]■)lo^•ed 
 by the U. S. Department of Agriculture studied botany 
 at Bonn, and I have the highest opinion of the indom- 
 
280 DATE PALM. 
 
 itable industr\' and perseverance, the intelligence and 
 patience of these )'oung scholars. One of these is 
 Walter T. Swingle, who has since been successful in 
 overcoming the obstacles which had hitherto prevented 
 the satisfactor^' development of the Smyrna Fig in the 
 United States, and who has also made it possible to 
 ensure permanent results with the Date Palm. These 
 results have been obtained onh' b^■ the most careful 
 study of the conditions of life of these plants in their 
 former habitat. Soil, climate, method of cultivation and 
 means of pollination were all the subjects of enquiry 
 and brought valuable scientific facts to light. The best 
 scions of the Date Palm were obtained from the Sahara, 
 and as the State of Arizona presented the necessary 
 climatic conditions the results were successful. V^ery 
 soon then American dates will enter into competition 
 with those of the old world, as American lemons, 
 oranges, grapes, and all kinds of stone fruit have 
 already done. The Date Palm succeeds so well in 
 Arizona that it begins to bear fruit in fifteen years. 
 May the capital of this State indeed prove worthy of 
 her name "Phoenix" ! 
 
 CHAPTER III, 
 
 Those who are accustomed to observe the plants 
 surrounding them will not fail to notice the Arisarwn 
 vulgare (Fig. p. 41), an Arum which is very common 
 in Mentone and all along the Riviera in the outskirts of 
 gardens and on any ground that has once been cultivated. 
 The curious dark brown inflorescences rise from among 
 
ARUMS. 281 
 
 the dark orcen arrow-sliajU'd leaves. Tliev consist of a 
 cliih-shapcd spadix hcariii<«- small iiiconspiciious llowers, 
 and a dark-brown spatlie, striped witli white, which cnvel- 
 ()jH>s the spadix. This spathe is not a floral envelope 
 hut a bract. It forms a tube terminating in a fkp which 
 curves over like a helmet. The bare end of the spadix 
 is also brown and protrudes from the tube. The un- 
 pleasant smell emitted by this inflorescence attracts small 
 tiies and midges; these crawl down the spadix and rub 
 against tire tiowers, thus effecting pollination. The spadix 
 bears both staminate and carpellary tiowers. As the 
 stigmas of the latter come to maturity before the staminate 
 llowcrs discharge their pollen, they are generally fertilised 
 by pollen which the insects bring from other flowers. 
 I'he Italian Arum (Antiii Halicum), which is commonly 
 met with here in the spring, is pollinated in the same 
 way. Its arrow-shaped leaves (Fig. p. 41) are much 
 larger and more pointed than those of the Arisarum. The 
 venation is of a lighter green than the rest of the leaf, 
 so that it is easy to distinguish these two plants even 
 when not in flower. A. italicum flowers later than Arisarum. 
 Its inflorescence resembles that of the Calla aetliiopica 
 so commonly grown in pots at home. The thickened 
 end of the yellow spadix protrudes from a large white 
 spathe. In this flower it is not so much the smell, as 
 the conspicuous yellow colour of the spadix and the 
 warmth given out by it that attracts the midges upon 
 which the pollination depends. The temperature begins 
 to rise in the morning and reaches its maximum between 
 six and eight in the evening. A spadix will then attain 
 
282 ARUM. - 
 
 40 ** C and its warmth can be felt if \'ou touch it. 
 The spadix decreases much in weight during this rise 
 of temperature, for it consumes a portion of its substance 
 b}^ increased respiration. In fact we might ahnost saA' 
 that the spadix was feverish ! It is very interesting that 
 this phenomenon should be made use of by the plant as 
 a device for cross-fertilisation. 
 
 No botanist will fail to notice the yellow spots on 
 many of the leaves of Arisarum vidgare in the spring. 
 They are caused bv a curious parasite which attacks 
 and kills portions of the Arisarum leaves. In highly 
 organised plants these blights are generally caused \>\ 
 colourless Hyphomycetes. But in this case it is caused 
 by a green alga (one of the Siphoneae), Phyllosiphon 
 Arisari. This is remarkable because living parasitic 
 plants are not as a rule green. Since the green colouring 
 matter is characteristic of plants which obtain their own 
 nourishment from the air, it is naturally not needed as 
 soon as parasitism begins. The green colouring matter 
 may perhaps be retained in Phyllosiphon because this 
 alga has not long been living in this manner. All its 
 closest relations support themselves independenth- and are 
 mostly aquatic. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 It is very lovely in the little garden of the Hotel 
 d'ltalie at Garavan when the full moon stands high in 
 the heavens. Then it hangs over the sea, tracing silver\- 
 hieroglj'phics on its shimmering surface. Its beams shine 
 into the garden through the trembling foliage of the 
 
THE MOON. 
 
 283 
 
 ()live trees and cast m^■sterious shadows upon the paths. 
 On evenincrs like tliese we are rehictant to retire to our 
 rooms, and stroll up and down out of doors until a late 
 hour. ''Xo planet — so wrote Pliny — can charm one 
 as does the moon. She is the earth's nearest relation. 
 
 Nature created her to banish the shades of night 
 
 How manifold are lier forms! At one time she is curved 
 into a crescent: at another cut in twain; then again 
 rounded into a full orb. Ihiw often does she darken 
 and disappear, only to reappear in full splendour. Sometimes 
 she watches faithfulh' over the earth during the w^hole 
 night, or at others appears only at a late hour. Oc- 
 casionalh' she is visible even in the da^•time, as companion 
 to the sun. Xow she is low down on the horizon, now 
 high up in the heavens. Sometimes she seems to touch 
 the summits of the high _^^ mountains and follows 
 now a northerh- and 
 erh' course. It was 
 grasped the meaning of these 
 later times, legend represented 
 of Selene. She <?^'« 
 
 was said to S^\^^- 
 
 41 
 
 then a more south - 
 
 ^ Endymion who first 
 
 changes. Hence, in 
 
 him as the lover 
 
 Lotus 
 orn ithojiodio ides. 
 
284 COLOUR OF THE MEDITERRANEAN. 
 
 have often come down to caress the beautiful }'Outh as 
 he rested upon the mountaui of Latmos. How ungrate- 
 ful are we to those who, through weary research, have 
 thrown light upon the sources of light. O miserable 
 perversion of the human mind which loves to iill the 
 annals of history with accounts of bloody deeds and 
 to mislead the ingenuous minds of youth with these 
 narratives !" 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 The full moon had shone clear and bright the whole 
 night through, but next morning clouds came up from 
 the east, and soon the whole sky was overcast and grev. 
 Yet the Mediterranean remained blue, retaining its char- 
 acteristic tint. 
 
 The Mediterranean owes the deep blue, which we 
 so admire, to the transparency and clearness of its waters. 
 Most masses of water are blue by transmitted light. 
 This is why the ice of crevasses and glacier caves 
 appears pure blue. If a suflicientlv long tube, blackened 
 within, with a mirror fixed at its lower end, be sunk 
 perpendicularh- into the Mediterranean, we should see 
 the water in the tube shining like a sapphire. An object 
 appears coloured to us when it absorbs certain rays of 
 white light and reflects others. These reflected rays, 
 when they reach our eve, create the impression of a certain 
 colour which we ascribe to the object. Water is blue 
 because it quickly absorbs the red and ^'ellow raA's of 
 white light and transmits only the blue. To create this 
 impression on our eye the rays which reach it must 
 
PLANKTON. 285 
 
 ha\e passed throuLih the water. I^iit in absolutel\- pure 
 water the ra\'s woiikl not he retlected. but would pass 
 slraij^ht on. Therefore water must contain a certain 
 amount ot impurities to appear coloured to us. Suspended 
 particles are necessar^• to reriect the light. Tlie smaller 
 and fewer these particles are. the deeper does the light 
 penetrate the water before it is rellected, and the bluer 
 it appears when it reaches our e\'e. So tliat the geo- 
 grapher Kriimmel is justified in sa^•ing that the more 
 clear and transparent the water, the purer its blue. The 
 northern seas are as a rule less clear than the southern 
 ones, because in warmer and salter water the particles 
 of foreign matter sink to the bottom ejuicker: thus it is 
 that the southern seas are famous for their blue colour. 
 As lakes are more liable to be charged with impurities, 
 the^' rarely fulfil the conditions necessary for blue hues. 
 It has lately been discovered that plankton, that swarm 
 of minute organisms which live suspended in the Avater, 
 contributes largely to the impurit^• of lakes and especialh' 
 of the sea. The northern seas are the richest in plankton. 
 The eastern end of the Mediterranean has been found 
 to be particularh' poor in plankton, and this is just where 
 the blue is the most intense. Some physicists have 
 suggested that the fineness of the particles suspended in 
 the water ma\" also contribute to the depth of its blue 
 colouring. For the smaller the particles the more imper- 
 feclh' are the long- waved red ra\s, and the more per- 
 fecth' the short-waved blue ra\'S reflected : and thus the 
 blue colour is intensified. This same phenomenon, taking 
 place in our atmosphere, is said to be the cause of the 
 
 12 
 
286 COLOUR OF TH E MEDITERRANEAN. 
 
 blue colour of the sky. The clearer the air and the 
 tiner the particles suspended in the upper regions, the 
 bluer the vault of heaven. When there is much impurity 
 in the atmosphere the sk^' becomes grey : without any 
 impurity- it would appear black as does interstellar space. 
 In southern seas the blue is less intense near the coast, 
 and here green tones are seen when the water is more 
 troubled. Changes of colour often ensue when the im- 
 purities are stirred up by a rough sea. It is only in 
 shallow water that the bottom reflects its colour and 
 imparts it to the water. The statement, therefore, that the 
 southern seas owe their deep blue to reflection from the 
 sk^' is quite incorrect. The Mediterranean can look 
 blue even when the heavens are overcast. Still those 
 who have been fortunate enough to see and admire the 
 exquisite colouring of the southern seas know that the 
 tint of their waters is influenced by the condition of 
 the sk}' ; that their wide expanse reflects the changing 
 phases of the firmament, laughing and weeping, as it 
 were, in harmony, clothed at eventide in purple, mourning 
 in the deep half shades of a cloud\' da\', gleaming like 
 gold in the sun and like silver in the moonlight. Thus 
 in its endless changes the sea, never monotonous, charms 
 us with its magic spell. 
 
 At Mentone the Mediterranean soon attains a con- 
 siderable depth. The bottom sinks rapidh', so that at 
 about twenty-five miles from the shore the sounding- 
 line registers 8,250 feet. 
 
 Nobody ventures to bathe here in the winter, and 
 yet the temperature of the water does not fall below 
 
TIDES. — TAMARISK. 287 
 
 twrlve or thirteen degrees even in January. In shallow 
 places, \\hen the sea is calm and the sun has been shining 
 on it for some time, it is often appreciabh' warmer than this. 
 We have no need to consider the tides in the Medi- 
 terranean, for the difference in level between high and 
 low tide amounts onh' to thirt\' or iortv centimetres, 
 l^his is the same in the Haltic; but, on the other hand, 
 the saltness of the Mediterranean is almost double that 
 of the Baltic, the one containing, on an average, four 
 per cent of salt, the other onh" 2 • 2 per cent. Tlie 
 Mediterranean is • 5 per cent Salter than the North Sea. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 I can remember the time when numerous Tamarisks 
 ( Tainarix galh'ca) adorned the shores of Mentone. It 
 was a lovely sight in the spring, when their slender 
 branches, thickly covered with pink flowers, drooped 
 over the sea. This ^Mediterranean plant is gradually be- 
 coming rarer on the Riviera, and it may be looked for 
 in vain at Mentone. Where it once grew plentifulh- the 
 broad Promenade now stretches between Mentone and 
 Cap Martin. But from time immemorial the Tamarisk 
 has been characteristic of the Mediterranean flora, and 
 according to Homer, Odysseus hung the armour of Dolon 
 upon one of these trees. 
 
 On the other hand the African Jviciiiits has succeeded 
 in naturalising itself on the sea shore at Garavan. where 
 it grows almost to the height of a tree. These Ricinus 
 shrubs are common on the Riviera di Ponente where 
 the climate seems to suit them. Ricimis communis, the 
 
 12* 
 
288 CASTOR OIL PLANT. 
 
 "Castor Oil Plant", is very adaptable and behaves as an 
 annual in our gardens, completing its development in the 
 year. It can ripen its fruits even at Christiania. It has 
 been introduced into all countries. That it came from 
 Africa is probable, but difhcult to prove. We value 
 this plant for its large handsome palmate-lobed leaves. 
 In the autumn it produces its flowers in panuicles; the 
 clusters of yellow staminate flowers below, and the car- 
 pellary flowers with their red stigmas above. In the 
 north the plant is killed by the first frost. The fact that 
 the Ricinus lives so many years on the Riviera and grows 
 to such a size, bears eloquent testimon^' to the mildness 
 of the climate here. The purgative properties of the 
 Castor Oil were alreadv known in ancient Greece, and 
 Dioscorides enumerates it among the aperients. In the 
 Middle Ages also it was used for the same purpose. 
 Albertus Magnus cultivated this plant under the name 
 of "'Kik", and it is still called "Kiki" in Greece today. 
 This plant is called '"Wunderbaum" in German, because 
 it was thought to correspond to that ''Gourd" which, 
 according to legend, grew up so rapidU' in one night 
 that it was able to afford shade to the Prophet Jonah. 
 The sharp-tasting Ricinus acid, as well as several other 
 fixed acids, have been extracted from Castor Oil: but it 
 has not yet been ascertained to which principle the pur- 
 gative effect is due. The Chinese deprive the oil of its 
 purgative properties b\' boiling it with alum, sugar, and 
 water, and when treated in this wa\' the oil ma^' be used 
 for food. A famous Chinese dish, which strangers also 
 appreciate, is shark's fins fried in Castor Oil. 
 
GARAVAN. 
 
 289 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 In the afternoon the 
 Sirocco began to blow 
 and it became hot and 
 sultr^■. After snpper I 
 went ont into the garden 
 in front of the house and 
 then furtlier down to the 
 shore in the hopes of getting 
 cool. I sat down upon a rock 
 which juts out into the Bay of 
 Garavan. The hot wind had ceased 
 but the air was still oppressive. 
 
 The stars shone in the clear sky, 
 and their reflections danced 
 on the waves. Here and 
 there bright lights rose 
 mvsterioush- out of 
 the deep: the^• Hashed 
 on the crests of the 
 billows, or traced long 
 streaks on the dark waters. 
 Tliese were marine creatures which 
 were illuminating, with their own 
 light, their path in the darkness of 
 night. I watched this sparkling 
 and gleaming of the sea. From 
 time to time I threw a handful 
 of pebbles down into the 
 which appeared to ignite wherever a 
 
 .^Litthiola 
 incaiia. 
 
290 PHOSPHORESCENT FUNGI. 
 
 stone fell. Then I strolled to the port and engaged a 
 boatman to row me out some distance into the open sea. 
 At each stroke of the oar the water was lighted up; it 
 flowed off the oars like liquid metal and washed round the 
 bow like a cascade of lire. It was a wonderful sight. I had 
 not seen the sea shine so beautifully for many a long 
 year. I once saw it even more beautiful — in the Gulf 
 of Smyrna. Then the crests of the waves were like fiery 
 sheaves, and the ship sailed through a sea of flame. 
 
 On land also there are organisms which shine in the 
 dark; but-their number is small compared to that of the 
 luminous inhabitants of the sea. The mycelium of certain 
 fungi, which live on rotten wood, give out a phosphores- 
 cent light in the dark, and then the decaying wood itself 
 appears to shine. Many a superstitious wanderer has 
 been terrified on a dark night by the uncanny appearance 
 of a half-fallen tree trunk shining m^'Steriously. This 
 phosphorescence is most common in the height of 
 summer and in the autumn after continued rain, and in 
 sultry weather. The light is white and dull like that of 
 phosphorus in a darkened room. Root stumps, which have 
 remained so long in the soil of a forest that they are 
 beginning to decay, are generally permeated by the 
 luminous mycelium of a fungus. A small piece dug up 
 and laid in damp moss at home will begin to shine in 
 the dark after a little while. This will probably be the 
 luminous mycelium of the Halimash (Agaricus nielleus), 
 a fungus commonly parasitic on wood. One of the 
 prettiest of these natural illuminations in our regions takes 
 place at the summer solstice when, late in the evening. 
 
I'LANKTOX. 291 
 
 tlu' <,n-()vos in (icnnaiu arc liolited up by tliousands 
 ol" irlow-wornis (A(n///>vr/s uociihica). Only the males of 
 these beetles Ih', drawiiit^ brii^dit streaks through the air, 
 wliile the females, wliicli are also luminous, remain on 
 the ground. 
 
 The number ol luminous inhabitants ot the sea is 
 endless; almost every division of the Animal World 
 contains luminous representatives, l^ut only a tew of 
 these creatures contribute to the nightlv illumination of 
 the surface of the sea. The rest live in the depths 
 below and shine in the perpetual darkness. The lighting 
 up of the surface of the sea is the result of the aggreg- 
 ation of countless numbers of lowly organisms. It is 
 the^• who border eacli wave with a silvery liem and 
 trace tlie ship's course as a sliining furrow. Most of 
 these organisms belong to the Animal World, but niany 
 minute plants are associated with them : these permeate 
 ihe sea and are known as plankton. ^Fhis plankton 
 lives suspended in the upper la^■ers of the water, or at 
 night rises to the surface. But the fier^- streaks which 
 shoot through the water are emitted b\' more highly 
 organised creatures, generalh- those large bell -shaped 
 Medusae, which the Arab so appropriately calls "Lant- 
 erns of the sea". 
 
 There are liglit-emitting bacteria in the sea; these 
 are sometimes met with on land also. They do not, 
 however, contribute to the illumination of the sea, 
 although the\- are found in all seas. They settle upon 
 other organisms which then begin to phosphoresce in 
 the dark with a silver\- white or bluish -green light. 
 
292 PHOSPHORESCENT MEAT. 
 
 But this onlv takes place on exposure to the air, for 
 the Photo-bacteria cannot shine without oxygen. This 
 phosphorescence is easih' transferred from fish to meat: 
 hence the opinion so long held that phosphorescent 
 meat must have been in contact with fish. But lately 
 the botanist Hans Molisch has established the fact that 
 luminous bacteria are regularly met with inland. They 
 require a little salt, and this ma.v explain why luminous 
 bacteria haye not yet been proved to inhabit fresh 
 water. Mention is made of phosphorescent meat in 
 very ancient times, but the first reliable information 
 about it dates from 1592 and is due to the famous 
 anatomist of Padua, Hieron\'mus Fabricius ab Aqua- 
 pendale. Anyone can easih' observe this phenomenon if 
 so inclined. But a butcher who noticed it would, for 
 good reasons, conceal it, for phosphorescent meat 
 looks unpleasant, and rumours of such an occurrence might 
 injure his trade. Luminous bacteria are, however, quite 
 harmless, and even a phosphorescent sausage ma}' be 
 eaten without any danger, provided, of course, that it is 
 not bad in any other wa}', and does not contain any of 
 those poisonous Ptomaines which are known in Germany 
 as "Wurstglft". A low temperature favours the 
 development of luminous bacteria, so that they thrive 
 in ice cellars and cold storage rooms. Most pieces ot 
 meat, if laid in a three per cent solution of salt and 
 water so that the^' are not quite submerged, should 
 begin to phosphoresce after a few days. Phosphorescent 
 meat need not necessarily smell bad, for it may only 
 be in the very first stage of deca^'. The bacteria which 
 
LUMINOUS BACTERIA. 293 
 
 cause this pluMionienon are called A/irrocin'nis p/io<;p/n>rns. 
 Tliey are minute spherical or ovoid cells whose diameter 
 does not exceed one or two thousandths of a millimeter. 
 At a temperature of from nine to twelve above zero 
 these organisms shine so brightly that their phosphores- 
 cence can be seen even in the day time in the diffused 
 light of a room. They are very sensitive to higher 
 temperatures, and about 30^ suffices to kill them. These 
 bacteria therefore could hardh- exist in our bodies. 
 They have been photographed by their own light. Like 
 the i^hosphorescent fungi they shine without intermission, 
 while the luminous organisms in the sea shine only when 
 they are irritated. Hence the shock of a stone thrown 
 into the sea causes this light-reaction in these lower 
 organisms. The sudden illumination of these organisms 
 when irritated may be protective and intended to terrify 
 the approaching enemy. But tliis light must have other 
 advantages for those creatures which live in the ocean 
 depths: it must facilitate their quest for food. 
 
 In all luminous creatures the emission of light is 
 associated with life and disappears at death. In spite 
 of this the physiologist Raphael Dubois has succeeded 
 in extracting the luminous substance produced in abun- 
 dance b}- certain molluscs, the so called "Sea-dates" 
 (Pholas dactylus). It had long been known that tlie 
 hands and mouths of those eating these molluscs became 
 phosphorescent. PVom this luminous substance Raphael 
 Dubois made crystalline ''Luciferin"'. and a ferment 
 called -'Luciferase" ; and when he mixed these the 
 solution phosphoresced. Raphael Dubois and Mollisch 
 
294 BAUSSI ROSSI. 
 
 endeavoured to use the luminous bacteria for making 
 living safety lamps. Glass globes were coated on their 
 inner surface with a thin layer of gelatine containing 
 germs of Bacterium phosphor iiiiu. The bacteria increased 
 rapidh' and after a day or two began to shine with a 
 beautiful bluish green light. This lasted a fortnight. 
 A few of these globes are sufficient to illuminate a dark 
 room so that objects can be clearlv seen. Since the 
 cold light of these bacteria does not ignite either 
 powder or gas these lamps ma^' perhaps come into use 
 in powder magazines and speciallv dangerous mines. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Among the coloured pictures seen in the shop 
 windows of Mentone there are alwa^'S views of the 
 "Baussi Rossi" representing them in the reddest of 
 evening lights. The rocks which go by this name are 
 actually in Itah', and are soon reached bv the road 
 which runs along close to the sea be^'ond Garavan. 
 They are ^formed of a reddish lime-stone. There are 
 caves in these rocks in which important discoveries of 
 prehistoric remains have been made. The view of 
 Mentone from this projection of the coast is very 
 beautiful, even though not equal to that from the road 
 above. Those who are not afraid of a steep climb 
 would do well, after visiting the caves, to ascend the 
 footpath which leads up to Grimaldi, returning to 
 Mentone bv the upper road. 
 
 The caves of the Baussi Rossi had already aroused 
 the interest of Horace Benedict de Saussure towards the 
 
PREHISTORIC REMAINS. 
 
 295 
 
 end of the eighteenth centurv ; 
 
 but tlie\- did not become 
 
 famous unlil after the 
 
 excavations of 18/2, 1S73, 
 
 and 18^)2. For some time 
 
 it was thought that the remains 
 
 found in these caves were those of 
 
 Tertiar\- man. I^ut this was not confirmed. The 
 
 skeletons found liere, several of which remain /// 
 
 si'tii, realh' belong to the Old Stone Age 
 
 (Palaeolithic). At this period ]\Ian lived on 
 
 the coast here togetlier with the Cave Bear, 
 
 Aurox, Cave H^•aena and Rhinoceros, as the 
 
 bones dug up at the same time testif\'. 
 
 llius this is an ancient burial place, dating 
 
 back far be\'ond our oldest historical monuments. 
 
 ; 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 The narrow gauge "Ligne du Sud de hi 
 France'', from Nice to Grasse, runs along the 
 mountain slopes througli most picturesque scener\-. 
 The railwa\' begins to ascend immedi- 
 atelv on leaving the station which is 
 in the Avenue Malaussena — a con- 
 tinuation of the Avenue de hi Gare. 
 
 .^foricaiidia 
 tirxiiisi 
 
 The view over Nice, spreading wide 
 with its pahitial II(')tels. is verv striking. The 
 line leads on through narrow valle\s, between 
 country houses with gardens and past wooded 
 slopes. This excursion should not be made too 
 
 D 
 
296 THE VAR VALLEY. 
 
 early in the season, in any case not before the 
 commencement of April, as the heights only then 
 begin to deck themselves with their green spring 
 covering. We soon reach the valley of the \"ar, in whose 
 pebbly bed there are generally only narrow channels of 
 water. This view is not exactly fine, but the eye is at 
 once attracted by the background of mountains — those 
 might\- snow peaks that tower beAond the gorge through 
 which the Var flows. They stand in line, the Caire 
 Cougourda, Caire Agnel, Cima Giranda, and all the 
 other giants of the Maritime Alps. In the foreground, 
 on steep heights, the grey villages of Carros, Bonson and 
 Gattieres keep watch over the valle\', looking as if they 
 had been placed there to enhance the romantic beauty 
 of the landscape. To the West the mighty rock of Baou 
 de St. Jeannet forms a frame to the picture. With this 
 scene before us we reach Colomars where the line divides. 
 One branch continues on the left bank of the Var, the 
 other crosses it and turns up towards Grasse. Here the 
 rail at once begins to ascend steeph* and the scenery grows 
 grander as we proceed. Now in the far distance to the 
 east the snowy crest of the Cima du Gelas, 10,359 feet 
 high, dominates the scene. The massive cliff of the Baou 
 de St. Jeannet looms larger the nearer we approach. It 
 is as conspicuous a feature of the landscape here as the 
 Tete de Chien in the Monaco district. To the south-east 
 of St. Jeannet, and visible from afar, lie the ruins of a 
 castle, called by the people "The Witches' Castle". It 
 was once a "Commanderie" of the Knights Templar, 
 and its massive walls still defy the ravasfes of time. At 
 
GORGE OF THE LOUP. 297 
 
 St. leannet tlu- lugma^e van ol our train was lilU-d with 
 baskets which emitted a strong perfinne. They evidently 
 contained Roseniar\- and Th\ine, and as the higgage 
 vail was in front ol the train we now travelled in a 
 scented atmosphere and must luive left behind us a long 
 trail of perfumed air. The old town of \^entium, the 
 dark. o-re\- N'ence of toda\-, once inhabited b\- the Ligurian 
 Xemesii, which I had hitherto onh' seen from a distance, 
 now hn' at m^■ feet. Then the line continued, crossing 
 the valle\s on high bridges, or winding along the mountain 
 side on narrow^ ledges. Looking inland we saw the deep 
 ravine of Cosson, with the picturesque hamlet of Tourettes- 
 sur-Loup o\erhanging it at a great height; to the south- 
 east la\- the sea glittering in the sunshine. A bold viaduct 
 crosses the Loup, whose romantic gorge is much visited 
 from (jrasse. Wonderful are the foaming cascades that 
 dash down the steep rocks into the depths below. The 
 train reaches the old town of Le Bar b\' a long bridge. 
 This town was once a Roman Post. Again we move 
 on. and Grasse and the wide plain of the Siagne suddenly 
 come into view. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Grasse lies on the steep slope of Rocavignon. It 
 is well protected from the north, and its gardens are the 
 highest on the Riviera in which Palm trees thrive. The 
 greater part of the town still retains its mediaeval aspect. 
 Its streets wind up the slope, while shorter cuts are made 
 b\' steep steps. The opposite buildings are bound together 
 b\- buttresses as though to prevent their slipping down 
 
298 GRASSE. 
 
 the hill. The people throng the streets in the evening. 
 Sometimes the crowd is so dense as to impede the traffic. 
 Here and there the old houses, gre^' with age, have 
 been fitted with large shop windows displaving goods 
 which are little in keeping with their surroundings. From 
 many of the house doors there issues a smell of grease, 
 onions and garlic. Dishes of ummistakable Mediterranean 
 savour are being fried. But this smell of oil is combined 
 with a penetrating perfume which might be pleasant 
 enough in more open places; it comes from Sandal-wood 
 which is spread out in the perfume factories. The work- 
 ing of it had just begun. 
 
 Grasse is of ver^• ancient origin, but has been repeat- 
 edly destroyed. Its restoration in the sixth century 
 was, according to a legend, accomplished b^' Jews. They 
 were said to be descendants of those Jews who were 
 driven out of Rome by Tiberius towards the ^'ear 1*^) of 
 our era. During the persecution which broke out in 
 Provence in the sixth centur\' these Jews turned Christian 
 and received the ruins of the old Roman town as a 
 reward. It is theA' who gave it the name of "Gratia". 
 The arms of Grasse bear a silver Paschal Lamb on an 
 azure field, and some have sought to connect this with 
 the former conversion of those who rebuilt the town. 
 
 We do not consider Grasse exactly beautiful; even 
 the view of the distant sea from its squares and gardens 
 does not enchant us. For the stiff and formal barracks 
 beyond the hills are an e^-esore. But the view of Grasse 
 itself is pleasing from the garden of the Grand Hotel, 
 which is reached in twenty minutes b}- the new Avenue 
 
iM:i>:rrMi-: ixdi'stry. 299 
 
 Thiers at the upper part ol" the town. Tlie Agaves and 
 Pahns in the o-arden frame the view of the Old town 
 most effectively and they hide the unsiirhth- new buildings, 
 leaving only the angular old towers and houses that lie 
 crowded pell-mell on the slope of the hill. 
 
 However the object of our visit to Grasse was not 
 to enhance our impressions of the scenery, but to obtain 
 an insight into the complicated perfume industry here. 
 Grasse has been renowned for more than a hundred and 
 fifty years for these products, and its success in this 
 manufacture dates back even farther. We were shown 
 the house in which, in the second half of the sixteenth 
 century, Sieur Tombarelli of Florence had fitted up a 
 laboratory for making perfumes. Grasse is now one of 
 the chief perfume manufacturing towns of Europe. It 
 does not, however, supply the prepared perfumes, such as 
 the so-called "Bouquets", but only the first extracts of 
 which these are composed. "Bouquets" are mixtures which 
 the perfumers prepare according to the prevailing fashion 
 or taste. The composition of these mixtures is generalh- 
 kept secret, and their blending is a peculiar art requiring 
 great experience and special aptitude. Sometimes these 
 mixed perfumes bear names which have no reference 
 whatever to their origin. This is the case with the wideh' 
 used "Corylopsis du Japon". It is true that several species 
 of the genus Corylopsis belonging to the order Hama- 
 melidaceae occur in Japan, and are also cultivated in our 
 gardens as ornamental shrubs, but the\- have no perfume 
 whatsoever. Dr. E. Gildermeister informs me that it was 
 for this very reason that the perfume was given this name 
 
300 PERFUMES. 
 
 bv the inventor. For the names of perfume - yielding 
 plants are not allowed to be registered at the Patent 
 Office for the Protection of Names of Perfumes. The 
 perfume called "'Corylopsis" is practically a mixture of 
 all possible kinds of ethereal oils, but particularh' Oil 
 of Roses. Patchouli, Lavender and Bergamot, besides 
 Musk and Civet. 
 
 Grasse extracts its perfumes almost exclusively from 
 the Vegetable World. But now chemistry is beginning 
 to influence the perfume industry, as by it the fragrant 
 substances are manufactured absolutely pure. It has been 
 particularly successful in producing Cumarin, the sub- 
 stance that is used to represent the smell of mown grass 
 and plucked Woodruffe, out of Salicylaldehyd. The pro- 
 cess is somewhat complicated, but the aromatic sub- 
 stance, which is obtained in shining colourless crystals, 
 is precisely the same as that contained in the Tonka- 
 bean, the seeds of the Tonka tree (Dipterix odorata) of 
 Guiana, and in the stalks of -Liatn's odoratissiimi, a com- 
 posite which grows in Florida and is used for scenting 
 tobacco and cigars. With about twenty grammes of 
 artificial Cumarin as much can now be effected in the 
 perfume factory as with a kilogramme of Tonka-beans. 
 It is the same with the natural "Winter-green oil", which 
 is extracted from a North American shrub, Gaidteria 
 procuiiihciis, belonging to the Ericaceae, and which is 
 now completely replaced b\' artiticialh' made Meth\'l 
 Salicylate. But on the other hand Bitter Almond 
 oil, which was so much used in perfumery, has been 
 only partially supplemented by artificial Bensaldehyd. 
 
CHEMICAL I^ERFUMES. 
 
 301 
 
 t."luMnistr\' lias arhicvecl sj-)lcnclid results with \'unilliii. 
 
 This is obtained from the sap of the 
 
 ^■oun^■ growing' wood of L'onifers 
 and also from iMigenol, which 
 is contained in Oil of Cloves 
 and man\' other substances. In 
 the course of \-ears its manu- 
 facture has become so much 
 cheaper that, whereas in the 
 year 18()7 one kilogramme cost 
 six thousand marks, a hundred 
 kilogrammes can now be 
 bought for that sum. 
 X'anilla pods \ield onh- 
 from one-and-a-half to two 
 per cent of \'anillin under 
 the most favourable condi 
 ions: so that with 
 from twent^• 
 
 to twenty->fy' live grammes 
 of XanillinflT the same resul 
 satisfact- 
 ]")erfume 
 gramme 
 tropin"" 
 Safrol, this 
 
 l-»roduct of a Japanese Cam- 
 
 phor oil. The cjuantity of perfume obtained 
 from the llowers of Heliotropes (Helio- 
 
 , , , . , 7 • -7 . . Narcissus 
 
 iropum pcniviaiiutn ?iX\6. o-rauaiflorum) is Tazetta. 
 
302 ARTIFICIAL VIOLET PERFUM E. 
 
 so small that this discovery is all the more welcome. As it 
 is quite impossible to extract the delicate perfume of the 
 Lily of the "V^alle\' it is a matter of import to the perfume 
 distillers that an extract with the same scent can now be 
 distilled from an alcohol, known as Linalool. In Nature 
 Linalool is pretty wideh' distributed as a constituent of 
 various ethereal oils, but it occurs more abundantly in 
 Linalooil, which is obtained from the wood of Mexican 
 and Guianan trees, the first belonging most certainly to the 
 Burseraceae and the latter probably to the Lauraceae. 
 Crystalline Thymol is now much used. This is not 
 distilled from Th^'me but from the seeds of the East 
 Indian Umbellate Ptychotis Ajoivan: also Menthol, which, 
 though not used in the manufacture of perfumes, forms 
 an ingredient of remedies for headache and is used as 
 snuff. Not long ago two substances were artificially 
 produced, "Iron" and "Jonon". The aroma of both 
 these almost exactly corresponds to that of Violet blos- 
 soms. Merely opening a test-tube filled with these ex- 
 tracts is sufticient to scent a whole room with the odour 
 of Violets. It is a remarkable fact that at times these 
 two extracts do not smell as strongly as at others and 
 fresh Violets exhibit the same variabilit\' in strength of 
 odour. Iron is extracted fi-om the so-called "\^iolct 
 root", the dried root-stock of Iris floreutiua; but it is 
 sold at a very high price, as a hundred kilogrammes of 
 root-stock only yield from eight to thirty grammes of 
 Iron. It is therefore of great importance to the perfume 
 industry that the manufacture of Jonon from Citral, 
 which is a constituent of Citron-oil and is still more 
 
P ERFUMES. 303 
 
 ahundaiit in Lenion(,n-ass-oil. has been successtully accom- 
 plislied. Not long ago artificialK- produced Orangc- 
 llo\\cr-oil. Madarin-oil and Jasmine-oil were added to the 
 number, and quite recentl\- the oil of ^'lang-^'lang. 
 Hitherto this latter has onh- been extracted from the 
 flowers of a tree culti\ated in Southern Asia, Caiicniu;a 
 odorafa, belonging to the Anonaceae. An attempt has 
 been made to substitute the artilicial Muse Haur, or 
 TouLiuin Oil. for the musk of the male Musk animal, and 
 the use of this product is increasing. From time imme- 
 morial valuable scents have reached us from warmer zones, 
 as did the Balsams in ancient times. But in the main 
 the perfumers owe their most fragrant scents to Southern 
 Europe. Most aromas distilled from plants are obtained 
 in tlie form of ethereal oils, which, unlike the fat oils, 
 are volatile and produce on paper a transparent spot 
 that soon vanishes. The i\nimal World cannot produce 
 these oils. In plants it is chiefh' the flowers that con- 
 tain the fragrant essences. For in these perfume and 
 colour unite to attract those creatures which carr\- the 
 pollen from blossom to blossom. Vet occasionalh' it happens 
 that the scented substance may be collected in some other 
 part of the plant ; for example Iron in the root-stock of 
 Iris, and \'etiver in the root-stock of the East Indian 
 grass, Andropogon iniin'catiis. The wood of tree-stems 
 ma\' contain perfume, as for instance the wood of the 
 Balsam-vielding tree, or the East Indian Sandalwood- 
 tree (Santalwn album). In the Cinnamon-tree {Cinnamomiim 
 Zexlam'aim) it is the bark that contains the scent. Again 
 in other instances it is the leaves that are the most frag- 
 
304 PERFUME FACTORY. 
 
 rant, like our Peppermint (Mentha Piperita), or Melissa 
 (M. officinalis), or the Indo-Malayan Patchouli (Pog-osfeiiion 
 PatcJiouli). Finally fruits and seeds may also contain 
 the scented materials, as for instance V^anilla or Cumin. 
 White flowers generally yield stronger and more 
 delicious fragrance, whereas brown and orange -red 
 flowers yield very little of any value to the perfume 
 industry. 
 
 We had provided ourselves with the necessar^' intro- 
 ductions, and were permitted to inspect some of the largest 
 Perfume factories in Grasse. The processes were in the 
 main everywhere the same. Sweet scented substances 
 that are abundant in one portion of a plant, and are 
 secreted in rather large glands, can be set free by pressure. 
 In other cases the usual process of distillation is em- 
 ployed, provided that the essence will not suffer by being 
 heated. Where this is to be feared distillation is carried 
 on under a low air pressure and at a much lower tem- 
 perature. But frequently, when the latter process is not 
 advisable they have recourse to maceration with liquid 
 fats, to absorbtion by cold fats, or to volatile solvents. 
 Certain flowers are unsuited for distillation as they contain 
 too little ethereal oil. Again some flowers, such as Jasmine 
 and the Tuberose, continue to produce scented substances 
 even after being gathered, and therefore must not be 
 killed immediately. The problem is, then, how to extract 
 the scent from them as it is being formed. Such flowers 
 are the very opposite of those that require to be rapidly 
 killed because their scent substance decomposes easily. If 
 material of this sort cannot be worked immediately, it 
 
vioi.F/r ri-:RFUME. 305 
 
 is put into special rece]:)tacles which arc lillcd with tlie 
 vapour ot a suitable soUent, proi>ahl\' ether. 
 
 W'iien we arri\ed in Grasse the V'iolet harvest was 
 over, and the jon(.|uils were in full bloom. X^iolets contain 
 only minute ejuantities of the fragrant substance which 
 is extracted chieth- bv fat. In this wa\- the\- get a Pomade 
 which smells of \'iolets. The fat w^iich is employed for 
 this ])urpose must of course be perfectU' j:)ure, and we 
 observed that at the factories it is obtained from freshly 
 slaughtered animals such as pigs, oxen and sheep. The 
 fat is then put into special machines which shred it up. 
 The fat can then be melted out without being subjected 
 to a ver\- high temperature. After cooling, the clear fat 
 is then ground in mortars and repeatedly washed in clean 
 water. It is then melted again, and alum powder added 
 to it; then quickly boiled up and skimmed. But this 
 does not yet complete the preparator^■ treatment. The 
 liquid fat has still to be pressed through linen, and boiled 
 with rosewater and powdered Benzoic resin, and must 
 be skimmed as long as froth continues to form. B\- the 
 addition of Benzoine, or other Balsams, and \'ery careful 
 washing, the fat is prevented from becoming rancid. For 
 salves, fine oils, especially olive oil, are employed. They 
 soak pieces of coarse cotton in this oil. and allow the 
 perfume to be absorbed b^■ it, then squeeze it out under 
 strong pressure. 
 
 For the manufacture of violet perfume the delicate 
 blue, double variet\-, ''\'iolette de Parme'', is preferred. 
 The tlowers must not be wet when taken to the perfume 
 factory. This rule applies to all other plants that 
 
306 VIOLET PERFUME. 
 
 are to be treated with fat. Therefore thev gather the 
 Molets earh' in the morning when the dew has dis- 
 appeared, but before the sun has become hot. Immediate- 
 ly after gathering, the flowers are taken to the factory 
 where, if the\' are to be treated b^' the process of macer- 
 ation. the^' are put into fat which has been warmed, 
 and which is kept hquid in a bath of water at a tem- 
 perature of from 4CV to 59° C. After a few liours 
 the fat is strained off from the Violets and again replen- 
 ished with fresh flowers. This is continued repeatedly 
 until the fat is quite saturated with violet perfume. From 
 this fat the scented substance is extracted by shaking it 
 up with spirits of wine, or good refined corn-brandy. 
 
 As the \iolet pomade produced hv the heating 
 process sometimes smells a little of sulphur, the cold 
 process, which is called "-enfleurage", is employed to 
 extract the scent. In the factories we visited we saw 
 man^' rooms filled with wooden frames placed one above 
 the other. Each frame contained a sheet of glass spread 
 with fat and strewn with \'iolets. The frames fitted 
 exactly on to each other so that no perfume could pos- 
 sibly escape. When the perfume of one layer of flowers 
 is exhausted, these are replaced bv fresh ones, and this 
 is repeated until the fat is saturated. 
 
 Recently the Petrol-ether method of extraction has 
 come into use for Molets. This treatment takes advantage 
 of the great volatility of certain substances, in which the 
 scents of plants are soluble, especially that of Petrol-ether, 
 to extract perfumes from the plants, and to separate them 
 again from their solvents at a low temperature. Special 
 
VIOLET PERFUME. 307 
 
 niarliines are emplo\ed to keep the solvent in circulation 
 antl tluis to ensure its coniinfr into contact with the flowers 
 for as long as is necessarw l^his solvent is then evapor- 
 ated into special reservoirs. Evaporation is effected b\- 
 reduced air pressure, without anv substantial increase 
 of temperature, and the solvent is again condensed in 
 cooled reservoirs for further use. Hv this process it is 
 possible to use up the fragrant portion of the plant to 
 greater advantage than formerly. The product thus 
 gained, when treated with alcohol, forms a highlv con- 
 centrated essence. 
 
 As it requires a very great number of Violets to 
 produce a strongh- scented essence, endeavours have long 
 been made to find a substitute for these fiowers. There- 
 fore instead of Molets the "Violet-root" was generally, 
 and is still, emplo\ed for sachets. Plin^' informs us that 
 pieces of the root-stock of Iris, peeled and dried, were, 
 in Roman times, hung round the necks of teething children, 
 as is very frequenth' done now. 
 
 There was some uneasiness among the \^iolet-growers 
 in Grasse when the use of Jonon began to spread. TheA- 
 thought that this ^ _^_ . discoverv would put 
 an end to their ^">rT;/-o ^ . -, Molet culture, but 
 the reverse was /f-*>-'V ^ , ^„ ^, ,. ,^: the result. For 
 its perfume *^ , ,,«,-o,pii^ requires an ad- 
 
 dition of the <?^/^ natural product 
 
 to fullv develop ey^*', \« C"; its qualities. And 
 
 the artificial ^X'/^^JK'^^j^^t^ production of Jonon 
 contributed not a 6 \^^ little to the increased 
 
 use of Molet per- Xitopiniiuw punctatum. fume, so that the 
 
308 SANDAL WOOD. 
 
 demand for the natural product increased also. As with 
 the \'iolet perfume, so it has been with other vegetable 
 perfumes; the competition of the artificial products, instead 
 of harming them, only served to increase their output. 
 
 In Grasse, too, the aroma from the heavily-perfumed 
 \ellow Jonquil (JVarcissusyouqtii'lla), has, until quite recent- 
 \\\ been extracted in cold fat bv the process of enfleurage; 
 it is now amongst those plants treated bv Petrol-ether. 
 Only the single-blossomed Jonquil is grown in Grasse 
 for the scent factories. 
 
 As at the time of our sojourn in Grasse Jonquils 
 were already getting scarce, the work with fresh flowers 
 was becoming slack in the factories. Orange - flowers, 
 Roses, Heliotropes and Reseda only come in Ma^^ For 
 this reason they had taken the Sandal-wood in hand. 
 We saw large piles of this valuable brown wood stacked 
 in the store houses. It is \'er\ expensive, for it is like- 
 wise much treasured in its East Indian home. There 
 they manufacture beautiful carved furniture, especially 
 costly boxes, out of this wood. For its fragrance keeps 
 off insects and drives away even the all-destroying white 
 ants. The Buddhists burn great quantities of Sandal-wood 
 as incense, and the Sandal trees have been quite exter- 
 minated in some places. In the factories Sandal -wood 
 oil is obtained from the chopped up wood by distillation 
 with water. The oil passes out with the steam from the 
 retort into the cooler, whence it flows with the water 
 into the receiver. From twenty-five kilogrammes of wood 
 about one kilogramme of oil is extracted ; this is conse- 
 quently expensive and is only used for very fine perfumes. 
 
ORANCi:- FLOWER \VAri:R. 309 
 
 111 tlu' inoiitli ot Ma\' the town of CTrasse reeks with 
 tlie overpoweriiiij;' odour of Orange blossoms. From two 
 to three hunch'ed tlionsand kilogrammes of llowers of the 
 bitter-fruited Orange tree (Ci/n/s Bii(aradia) are then 
 used in the factories for making perfumes. The llowers 
 smell stronger and more delicious than those of the sweet- 
 fruited Orange and are therefore almost exclusivelv 
 emplo^•ed. A tree from twent\- to thirtA' ^■ears old will 
 \ield from lifteen to twent^' kilogrammes of blossoms. 
 V>\ distillation a hundred kilogrammes yields about forty 
 kilogrammes of Orange-tiovyer water, and a hundred 
 grammes of Orange-flower oil, ("Essence de Neroli")^ 
 Their scent can also be extracted by maceration in fat, 
 and the Petrol-ether process is also used with these 
 tlowers. Orange-flower oil continues to be dear as it 
 onh' exists in minute t|uantities in the tlowers. The intro- 
 duction of artitlcialh- prepared Neroli oil by the Leipzig 
 lirm of Schimmel and Co. does not appear to haye affected 
 the manufacture of the natural product. Orange- 
 tlower oil came into fashion about the ^-ear 1680 under 
 the patronage of the Duchess Flayio Orsini, .Princess 
 Xeroli, and Orange-Hower water (Aqua Naphae) [also 
 became increasingh' popular as a toilet recjuisite as well 
 as for tlayouring foods, confectionery and drinks. During 
 our sta\' in Grasse they w^ere complaining that, owing to 
 oyer-production. tlie price of llowers had recently been 
 much reduced. Indeed during the last decade a strong 
 tendencx' to speculate has possessed the inhabitants of the 
 Riyiera. The rapidh' increasing demand lor Iresh llowers 
 had impelled manx- land owners to fell their Oliye trees and 
 
 13 
 
310 ORANGE FLOWER OIL. 
 
 plant flowers in their stead. Now the}' often hardl}' know 
 how to dispose of all the flowers. Added to this, the high 
 temperature of this spring had caused the plants to 
 develop so rapidh' that at the markets in the town one 
 could load oneself with large bouquets of the most 
 beautiful blossoms for a nominal price. 
 
 Petitgrain oil, which is distilled from the leaves, twigs 
 and unripe fruits of the bitter-fruited Orange, is naturallv 
 cheaper than Neroli oil. It is often used to adulterate 
 Orange-flower oil, to which it is considerably inferior in 
 delicac^' of scent. The perfume extracted from the 
 blossoms of the sweet-fruited Orange is distinguished b}' 
 special qualities, and is known as Neroli-Portugal oil. 
 But I learn from the work on ethereal oils bv E. Guilden- 
 meister and Fr. Hoffmann that this oil, as sold in the trade, 
 is not at all pure, but is composed of a mixture of vari- 
 ous Orange oils. 
 
 The Oranpfe oil which is extracted from the fresh 
 peel of ripe fruits of the sweet-fruited orange tree is 
 obtained in winter time. It is easy to prove that a great 
 deal of ethereal oil is present in the rind of an orange. 
 You need only squeeze the peel close to a flame when the 
 expressed oil will ignite. The glands in the rind which 
 contain the oil are so large that they can be seen with 
 the naked eve. 
 
 The oil from the sweet-fruited as well as from the 
 bitter-fruited orange peel is made use of in perfumery. 
 And the ethereal oil of Bergamots, Mandarins, Limettes, 
 Pampelmousse and Lemons is used for various purposes. 
 In Nice the^• used to employ an instrument called 
 
PERFUMES. 311 
 
 '•Kceuile a piciuer"' for the purpose of extracting the oil 
 from these rinds. This is a bowl witli brass points against 
 which tlie\' press the truit. The ciilti\ation of Agrumi 
 for tlie sake of the peel has almost been given uj) in the 
 South of France, and in Europe it is chieH\' Sicih' and 
 South Calabria that carrN" on this industry. There the\' 
 extract the ethereal oil from the rind bv pressing it 
 against a sponge, or b\- rubbing it between the fingers 
 and allowing the sponge to absorb the oil which spurts 
 out. The round Bergamots are likewise put into the 
 "macchina" which bruises their rind while a sponge ab- 
 sorbs the oil. The rinds, from which the oil has been 
 extracted, are salted and used as "'Salato". The juice 
 of the fruit pulp, especialh' that of the lemons, is used 
 for various purposes ; and lasth' the remainder is given 
 to the cattle for food. 
 
 ^^'e also saw in Grasse cupboards containing 
 wooden frames piled one on the top of the other. 
 These had not sheets of glass, but wire net stret- 
 ched over them. On these were alternate la^'ers of 
 flowers, and fat in threads like vermicelli. Tlie air 
 in the cupboards was kept in gentle motion by 
 bellows. It swept over the huers of fat and deposited 
 its pertume there. 
 
 Other arrangements were also shown us for lacili- 
 tating the extraction of the perfume. We saw apparatus 
 for grinding up dried portions of plants, for grating 
 fragrant wood, and reducing hard substances to powder. 
 One machine, which kept in motion several sieves of 
 different mesh, reeked with perfumes. 
 
 13* 
 
312 PERFUMES. 
 
 The process of extracting fragrance from plants bv 
 means of fat can also be applied, on a small scale, to 
 obtaining the finest pomade from Howers which would 
 perhaps otherwise fade unused in the garden. All that 
 is recjuired is the purest claritied fat spread on a sheet 
 of glass, and a good, close-litting box to lay it in. The 
 flowers must be placed on the fat with the petals turned 
 downwards, the box must then be shut and the flowers 
 renewed before the^' are faded. The name pomade, or 
 rather pommade, is derived from "pomme", apple, 
 which shows that at one time apples must have been 
 used in the manufacture of these perfumed fats. Aro- 
 matic spices, preferabh' cloves, were stuck into an apple, 
 and alter it had been exposed to the air for a few 
 days, it was boiled doun in fat. If the fat was not 
 thoroughly perfumed b\' the first apple, the process was 
 repeated. AIan\' Roses are grown round about Grasse 
 for the perfume factories. These are not the Roses 
 that are exported in winter and fill the flower shops of 
 the whole of Europe ; but Centifolia, Damask and Musk 
 roses. The Rose ranks next to Orange-blossom amongst 
 the perfume-fielding plants of the Riviera, and the Jas- 
 mine is next in importance. The Roses are picked when 
 just about to open, as soon as the dew has vanished. 
 The harvest is in May and June. In Grasse each rose- 
 stock yields, on an average, two to three hundred 
 grammes of flowers, but from five to six thousand kilo- 
 grammes of Roses are necessary to obtain one kilo- 
 gramme of Oil of Roses. It is not surprising then that 
 one kilogramme of this oil costs over a thousand francs. 
 
OIL OF ROSES. 
 
 313 
 
 \h 
 
 Oil ot Roses in obtained b\- distilling the petals in 
 water wlien it collects gradually on the surface. In spite 
 of the fact that only ver\' minute quantities 
 of the oil are dissolved in the water, 
 this is sufficient to impart to it a strong 
 perfume. Most of the Roses at Grasse 
 are used for making Rose-pomade, and 
 are therefore macerated in fat. 
 Whereas Rose -pomade preserves, 
 almost unchanged, the aroma of 
 fresh Roses, the Oil of Roses alters a 
 little. From the pomade they extract, 
 by means of alcohol, the "Esprit de 
 Rose", one of the finest scents that 
 exists. There is hardl}- a perfume in 
 the world that can compete in popular 
 favour with that of Roses, and he who 
 has travelled in the East will well rem- 
 ember the perfume of Roses, 
 combined with bad smells, in 
 llie sunny streets. Those who think 
 that they bring home pure Oil of Roses 
 in those long, narrow, gold-ornamented 
 phials from the Eastern Bazaars where 
 they are sold cheap, are greath- 
 deceived. Oriental Oil of Roses is 
 almost always adulterated, generally with 
 Palma-rose oil, or Indian Geran- 
 ium oil. which in the East Indies 
 is distilled from the Geranium Grass, 
 
314 OIL OF ROSES. 
 
 Andropogoji Schoeuanthus. The Indian distiller, on his 
 part, generalh' adulterates his Palma oil with another 
 oil, Coconut oil. It would therefore be better to fill 
 \o\\x scent bottle at home with genuine Oil of Roses. 
 Roses are extensively cultivated, not only in German^' 
 but also in England, for the purpose of making Oil of 
 Roses. In the year 1884 the brothers Fritsche, owners 
 of the Leipzig Firm of Schimmel and Co., who are 
 to be highh' commended for their ethereal oils and 
 essences, extracted three kilogrammes of Oil of Roses 
 from German Roses for the first time. The^' have laid 
 out extensive Rose plantations at Leipzig and these now 
 cover a surface of 35 hectares. I take this account 
 from the report, which the above mentioned firm publish 
 annualh', and from which one can not onh' form an 
 idea of the magnitude of the business done in this 
 factory but also gain an insight into the rational and 
 scientific management of this enterprise. Under the 
 auspices of this firm a valuable work on ethereal oils 
 by E. Gildenmeister and Fr. Hoffmann has been pub- 
 lished, and to it I am indebted for much information. 
 Close to the Rose fields of SchimmeTs factory are 
 extensive plantations of Reseda and Peppermint, besides 
 these there are also Tarragon, Artemisia, Lovage and 
 Angelica. Bulgaria is, and will long remain, the chief 
 country for the production of Oil of Roses, and it alone 
 is able to supph' nearh' two thousand kilogrammes of 
 this oil. 
 
 Palma -rose oil does not smell exclusively of Roses, 
 its perfume is more like a mixture of Rose and Lemon. 
 
GERANIUM Oil.. — LE MON PLANT. 31 5 
 
 The scent of (jeraniuin oil is, on the contrar\', ahnost exactly 
 like that of Roses: it is made from tlie leaves of certain 
 species of Pelarn-onium. chiefh' P. odoratissiniwn, capi- 
 iatiim, and roscuni. We can prove this for ourselves bv 
 taking a tew leaves of this plant, which is often grown with 
 us in pots, and bruising them between the lingers. The 
 species that succeeds best on the Riviera is Pelargonium 
 capitatum. Its cultivation there has declined recently 
 owing to the competition of Algiers. The plants are 
 gathered trom the middle of x\ugust to the middle of 
 September and delivered at the factories as quickly as 
 possible. The firm of Schimmel and Co. are now very 
 successful with Rose-Geranium oil. They distill 2,500 
 kilogrammes of fresh Roses with one kilo of pure 
 Geranium oil and obtain a product that resembles the 
 Bulgarian 0\\ of Roses very closely. 
 
 In the gardens of the Riviera one often meets with 
 a Verbena, T'. triphyUa or Lipia citriodora, which is 
 also known as Citronelle or Lemon plant. This beautiful 
 shrub ma^' be seen in the gardens on the Italian Lakes 
 and its fragrant pannicles of violet-tinted flowers may be 
 examined in autumn. If its leaves are rubbed between 
 the fingers the^- diffuse a delicious odour, which is inter- 
 mediate between Lemon, Melissa and V^erbena. This 
 shrub comes from South America, and is grown on a 
 large scale in several places on the Riviera. The genuine 
 \erbena oil which is distilled from its leaves, is prized 
 bv manv perfumers, lliis is however diflicult to obtain, 
 as Lemon-grass oil which has the same scent and is 
 much cheaper, is commonly substituted for it. This oil 
 
316 CITRONELLE. 
 
 is obtained from grasses of the genus Andropogon, whose 
 species are remarkable for so man\' fragrant oils. Lemon- 
 grass oil is obtained from Andropogon citrahis which is 
 specially cultivated in Ceylon and Singapore. Andropogon 
 Nardns, yielding the Citronelle oil which smells like 
 Melissa, is cultivated on a still more extensive scale. This 
 oil is increasingly used in the scenting of soaps, and is 
 the chief ingredient in the perfume of Hone^•-soaps. We 
 can form an idfea of the extent of the production of 
 Citronelle oil when we realise that on the hill slopes of 
 Ceylon not less than twenty thousand hectares of land 
 is planted with this grass, which grows a yard high. 
 About six hundred distilleries are at work and produce 
 annualh' about half a million kilogrammes of Citronelle 
 oil. The factory of Schimmel and Co, make their 
 Geranium oil from this. 
 
 The perfume of Reseda is extracted by the process 
 of enfleurage and lately the^• have been using Petrol- 
 ether. From Thyme, Sage, Rosemar\', Lavender and 
 Melissa the ethereal oil is extracted b\' means of distil- 
 lation. Thyme, Rosemary and Lavender are ver^• little 
 cultivated on the Riviera; they are gathered in their 
 natural habitats on the slopes of the hills where Rosemarv^ 
 and Thyme form the underwood. Lavender must be sought 
 for in the higher regions of the Maritime Alps, for down 
 on the coast only Lavandida Stoechas is found, and this 
 is of little use to the present perfume factories as it 
 smells much more like Rosemary than Lavender. To 
 the ancients however this scent must have been particu- 
 larly agreeable, for Pliny and Dioscorides mention only 
 
SPIKE OIL. 317 
 
 ."^tocclias and no other species of Lavender. Because it 
 smells like Aardiis /lu/ica it was named J\'(irdi{s Ilalica 
 or Pscudo-J^ariiiis, and in Spain it is still honoured bv 
 the name of "Romero Santo" or Blessed Rosemary. There 
 they extract from it an etliereal oil for household pur- 
 poses b}- hanging fresh plants upside down in bottles, 
 lirmly closed and placed in the sun. A mixture of oil 
 and water collects at the bottom of the bottle, and this 
 is used to heal breakings-out on the skin, to wash wounds 
 and to stop bleeding. From Lavandula vera, which 
 grows at a higher elevation, the finer Lavender oil is 
 made, and out of the Lavaiuhda spica, whicli grows at 
 a lower altitude, the Spike oil is extracted. 
 
 In earlier times they used to call all Lavender oils 
 by the name of Spike oil. The Abbess Hildegarde recom- 
 mended them for making e^e lotions, and the dried flowers 
 were made into aromatic pillows for the healthy as well 
 as for the sick. In the sixteenth centur\- no cottage 
 garden was without Lavender. The small-leaved species, 
 Lavandula ofjicinal/'s, was the most usualK- met with. 
 At this time it was a common custom to place dried 
 heads of Lavender and dried petals of the Bosa Ccnti- 
 foli'a in vases in alternate huers and strew salt and 
 spices in between. This mixture was called "Potpourri", 
 and was a favourite incense, for in winter it was put 
 on the hot stove and tilled the room with an agreeable 
 and delicate odour. 
 
 One day on the road to Aga\- some women were 
 walking in front of us carrying on their heads loads of 
 Thyme which they had gathered on the hillsides of the 
 
318 ST ORING SCENTS. 
 
 Esterel close b\'. The wind was blowing in our direction 
 and the perfume could be smelt hundreds of paces awav. 
 Those wild plants which will not bear transport are 
 generally distilled in the open, immediately after gathering, 
 in an apparatus known as a "Distillerie ambulante" which 
 they move from place to place. This is usualh' set up 
 in the neighbourhood of a spring or brook in order to 
 provide the necessary supph' of water tor the cooler. 
 A great cjuantity of Rosemar^' oil is sent from the 
 South of France to Cologne to be used there in the 
 manufacture of Eau de Cologne. Eau de Cologne con- 
 tains equal quantities of Orange- and Lemon-peel-oil, less 
 Neroli oil, and still less Bergamot and Rosemar\' oil 
 dissolved in 85 per cent alcohol. All these ingredients, 
 even though mixed according to the best prescriptions 
 and well selected, will not immediately produce good 
 Eau de Cologne ; for the fusion of the scents does 
 not take place for some time. Data resulting from prac- 
 tical experience have been collected for some time, but 
 the effects of storing have onh' of late ^'ears become the 
 subject of scientific enquir^'. The simplest example is a 
 retail brandv which is made bv diluting an 80 per cent 
 spirit down to a 30 per cent spirit. This brandy, when 
 freshh' mixed, would not be relished hv the drinker, 
 even if he Avere not a spoilt connoisseur. It must be stored 
 to render it palatable. It is well known that good wine 
 gains valuable qualities by being kept. The ingredients 
 in solution are working chemically on each other, and 
 they appear to originate new combinations. 'Absolute 
 stillness is necessary for this process, constant shakings 
 
EAU DE COLOGNE. 
 
 319 
 
 Padiiia Pai'Onio. 
 
 impede it; indeed it appears tliat combinations alread\- 
 begun can be destro^•ed b\ movement whether tempor- 
 ar\- or continuous. Knap is of tlie opinion that tlie 
 results of storinj 
 on processes 
 Organic Chemistry 
 Combination. 
 Substitution. 
 Disintigrat- 
 ion and so on. 
 Consequent!}' ' 
 in mixed per- 
 fumes also changes should 
 take place during storage, so that the different 
 scents may be effectualh- blended. The origin of Eau 
 de Cologne is disputed, and yet its invention may cer- 
 tainly be attributed to Johann Maria Farina, an Italian 
 from Santa Maria Maggiore, near Domo d'Ossola, who 
 in the beginning of the eighteenth centur\' carried on a 
 trade in perfumes and Colonial wares in Cologne. Not 
 until the middle of the same centur\- did Eau de Cologne 
 first come into general use and supplant the "Eau de la 
 Reine de Hongrie" or Hungarian Water. This was made 
 in much the same wa\" but contained more Rosemarj- 
 oil, besides Oil of Roses and a trace of Peppermint oil. 
 The French, who held the Rhine provinces during the 
 Seven Years' War, were chiefU' instrumental in spreading 
 the use of Eau de Cologne. i^vj 
 
 During our wanderings in the neighbourhood of Grasse 
 we saw a great many Jasmine plantations. From this vi^e 
 
320 JASMINE. 
 
 realised the importance of this phmt to the perfume fac- 
 tories. The Jasmine plantations were generally laid out 
 in terraces on the hillsides facing south. These much- 
 branched shrubs, about six feet high, with opposite 
 evergreen leaves produce single flowers, and are known 
 by the name of 'yasminwn grandijiorum. This species 
 comes from the East Indies ; the perfume of their flowers 
 is delicious. They are fairly large, of a pure white on 
 the inside and slightly tinged with red on the outer side. 
 The flowering begins in Juh' and lasts till October. A 
 thousand plants will ^■ield about flfty kilogrammes of 
 flowers. Their perfume is extracted bv means of en- 
 fleurage, that is with cold fat. The cjuantity of scent- 
 substance which they contain is so small that the blossoms 
 have to be repeatedly changed on the same layer of fat. 
 The flowers continue to produce scent after being gathered. 
 This is extracted from them as it forms bv means of 
 cold fat, which does not injure the blossoms. Thus 
 enfleurage is decidedly advantageous in the case of 
 Jasmine flowers, and could not be replaced by other 
 processes. From the Jasmine pomade, the Extract of 
 Jasmine is obtained by means of the finest Spirits of Wine. 
 The most valued perfumes for the handkerchief contain 
 this extract. They also make a "Huile antique au Jasmin" 
 by the process already referred to of strewing the blossoms 
 on pieces of woollen material soaked in olive oil and then 
 pressing out the oil. This kind of Jasmine oil is very 
 popular in France. 
 
 The flowers of the Acacia Farncsiana (Fig. p. 5) 
 also play an important part in the perfume industry. We 
 
pi: R FUMES. 321 
 
 liad alreach had an opportunit\' of adiniriiiir this small 
 tree in the Mortohi ( iardens. AiiiVcXs^e Acacia JuirnrsnvKi 
 is cuhivated oiih- to a \er\' Hniited extent, but hirc^e 
 plantations ot this plant are to be found in Algeria. The 
 small globular dark-^'ellow flower-heads, the "Cassie", 
 are gathered from September to December; this requires 
 both skill and practice as these plants are ver\' thorny. 
 The delicate violet-like odour of the flowers is absorbed 
 b\- the process of enlleurage, or extracted bv Petrol- 
 ether, The essence thus obtained is of great importance 
 in the preparation of '"Bouquets". 
 
 Finalh' we must not forget to mention the Tuberose, 
 Polyaiithcs Tubcrosa. This bulbous plant belongs to 
 the famih" of the .Vmar\'llidaceae, and is a favourite 
 on our llower tables and in bouquets because of its 
 beautiful white blossoms and powerful fragrance. Its 
 home is in Central America, but as a rule we onh' see 
 the double flowered varietv which smells so stronglv 
 towards evening — another instance of the wide-spread 
 phenomenon that flowers do not give forth the same 
 strength of j-jcrfume at all times of the da^•. Who lias 
 not noticed that the Datura and Nicotiana, the Dame's 
 Violet (Hcsipen's )natronalis) and the Marvel of Peru of 
 our gardens have scarceh' an\- perfume during the day, 
 while in the evening their fragrance is all pervading. 
 On the other hand \\'atc'r Lilies {^Vviiip/iaca alba). Gourd 
 flowers (Cuciirbita pepo), Bindweed {Convolvulus arvciisis), 
 are onh' fragrant during the day. This variation is of 
 importance to the plants : the\' emit perfume h\ daA' 
 or b}' night according as the\- require diurnal or noct- 
 
322 PERFUMES. 
 
 urnal insects to carry their pollen. A large number of 
 Tuberoses is required to saturate the fat with per- 
 fume so that this extract, like a great many other delicate 
 perfumes, is very expensive. When spread out on layers 
 of cold fat, the Tuberoses continue to produce scent-sub- 
 stance; in this way it is possible to obtain about twelve 
 times as much perfume as with Petrol-ether, which kills 
 the flowers at once. With us the Lilac, Syring-a vulgaris^ 
 might be used instead of the Tuberose to make a very 
 similar pomade by the same process. 
 
 It is not only the recognised "perfumes" of plants 
 that are used. For the scent of cucumber is turned to 
 account for many purposes. An essence is made by 
 distilHng the same alcohol several times with freshh' cut 
 slices of cucumber. With this essence the ointment 
 known as Cold Cream is scented, and this gives it the 
 refreshing aroma for which it is valued. 
 
 I must not omit to mention that an ethereal oil is 
 distilled even from garlic. Of course this oil is not used 
 in the making of perfumes, though one might sometimes 
 think so in the south of Europe or in the East, but it is 
 taken as a vermifuge. The Arm of Schimmel and Co. who 
 prepare this, as well as nearly all other volatile oils now 
 in use, recommend garlic oil, too, as a kitchen condiment. 
 We may form an idea of the concentrated smell of this 
 delightful oil when we consider that out ot sixteen 
 kilogrammes of garlic only ten grammes of oil are 
 obtained! 
 
 Solution of Ammonia, the so-called Spirits of 
 Hartshorn, and Ammonium Carbonate, in spite of their 
 
F/rilKREAL OILS. 323 
 
 inini^ciU suK'U, also pla\- a not iininijiortanl part in the 
 pcrfuine tactory. They are used in the manufacture of 
 sineliiniT-salts, and the odour of snuff is due i)rincipall\- 
 to Ammonia, Besides this snuffs are rendered aromatic 
 by other sweet- smelHng constituents. Acetic acid, too. 
 is employed in the perfume factor\', and its property of 
 dissolvintr ethereal oils is made use of to prepare per- 
 tumed vineijars. 
 
 CHAPTER XT. 
 
 Ethereal oils act as poison if thc\- are taken intern- 
 ally in too large doses, or continually Hence the harmtul 
 results consetjuent upon the abuse of man^- litiueurs are 
 caused not only b\- the alcohol which the\- contain, but 
 also by the volatile oils with which the^' are flavoured. 
 Eau de Cologne is equalh' dangerous if drunk. It is 
 not uncommon for a doctor to discover b\- accident that 
 a secret habit, on the part of his lady patients, of drinking 
 Eau de Cologne, is the cause of puzzling symptoms. 
 Volatile oils take oxygen from the air and thus go through 
 a process of oxydation. Many of these oils oxydise ver\- 
 quickly and the more minutely they are dispersed in the 
 air the more rapid is the process. Light and damp 
 further this process, which gives rise to gaseous ozone 
 in the air. or liquid h^■drogen superowde which is ver\- 
 similar in its effects. To these is to be ascribed the 
 stimulating effect on the respiratory organs which alco- 
 holic solutions of volatile oils have when evaporated in 
 a room. This effect is produced especially when those 
 
324 ETHEREAL OILS. 
 
 volatile oils, which chemists class as Terpine. are dis- 
 persed in the air, because thev ox^'dise the most rapidly. 
 It is physiologically interesting to test the susceptibility 
 of our sense of smell to perfumes. A few milligrammes 
 of musk are sufficient to scent even a well-ventilated 
 room for years. We smell this musk, and yet there can 
 be only an inlinitesmal quantit}' in the air which surrounds 
 us. Experiments made bv Passv, with alcoholic solutions 
 of strong smelling substances, have proved that the five- 
 hundred-thousandth part of a milligramme of Vanilla is 
 sufiicient to appreciably perfume a litre of air. The 
 same effect is obtained by five thousandths of a milligramme 
 of camphor: five miUionths of a thousandth part of a 
 milligramme of artificial musk sufficed to be perceived by 
 the olfactory nerves. Expressed in figures this would 
 be: 0.000,000,000,005 of a gramme: and yet the suscep- 
 tibility of our organs of smell is considerably inferior to 
 that of many animals. 
 
 In their principal chemical constituents ethereal oils 
 show no great complexit\'. The elements carbon and 
 hydrogen enter into them all : oxygen is generally present 
 in larger or smaller quantities and sometimes nitrogen or 
 sulphur. But simple as this may seem at first sight, we 
 find it to be more complicated when a closer investigation 
 is made into the constitution of these substances. We 
 owe to the works of the chemist Otto Wallach, of 
 Gottingen, a further, ^'et not complete, acquaintance of 
 the subject. But onl}' those who are versed in the whole 
 range of Chemistry will be able to follow the scientific 
 treatise on this question. 
 
PERFUMES. 
 
 325 
 
 1 of 
 
 CHAPTER XII. j^r^-^-a «.w^ 
 
 A communication irom JLjons ^jgjjiA" 
 
 to the "Chemikerzeituniy" of U)02 states ^0^ 
 that the ^ earl\- turnover in tiowers and ^ ^^^ 
 etherial oils at (irasse is thirt\' millions of _ i^" 
 francs. This sum is considered bv the 
 initiated to be over estimated ; 
 nevertheless it proves that the 
 manufacture of chemical scents has not ^'et 
 injured that of the natural products. Ac- 
 cording- to official reports, 2,000,000 kilo- 
 grammes of Orange flowers, 1,500,000 
 kilogrammes of Roses, 1,200,000 of 
 Jasmine, 400,000 of Molets, 300,000 
 of Tuberoses, 100,000 of "Cassie" 
 (Mimosa), 60,000 of 5l^|^^-^ .-: - 
 Reseda and 50,000 of Jon- ,; ' " ^)> 
 quils, besides other plants, are 
 annually used at Grasse. >;^^'!'^^^ij 
 
 Besides this great num- ^ 
 bers of workers leave Grasse 
 everv \'ear for the moinitains to 
 distil the coveted essences from wild plants. And 
 yet the use of scent has much decreased in com- 
 parison with former years. When we use perfume 
 now it is in moderation. Onh- in hot countries is 
 there still as great a demand as ever for toilet 
 scent. L'hict among these countries is the Levant; 
 but the ancients far exceeded even the orientals in 
 their use of scents, ^^'hat Plin\' tells us about Lucius 
 
 ^^ 
 
 Passefitia 
 hirsuta. 
 
326 PERFUMES. 
 
 Plocius is characteristic of those times. This Lucius 
 Plocius, whose brother Lucius Plancus had twice been 
 Consul, was proscribed bv the Triumvirate and fled. 
 He concealed himself in the neighbourhood of Salernum, 
 where, however, the perfume he diffused betra^■ed his pres- 
 ence. He was put to death, and Plinv, annoyed by the 
 excessive use of perfumes so prevalent at that time, re- 
 lates this not without a certain satisfaction. We can 
 hardh' imagine anyone reeking with oils and unguents 
 now-a-da^'s as was often the case in ancient Greece 
 and in the Levant. We have a decided aversion to 
 greasy hands and therefore clean them as soon as pos- 
 sible. We still tolerate oil and pomatum for the hair, 
 but these things are being replaced b^' alcoholic extracts, 
 whereas the ancients anointed themselves exclusiveh' 
 with perfumed oils. The iirst liL[uid scent of the kind 
 we now use is said to have been produced hv Mercutio 
 Frangipani, who made an extract with strong alcohol, 
 from a powder of spices and musk invented by his an- 
 cestors. This same Frangipani belonged to a Roman 
 noble family, which in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries 
 had distinguished itself in the feud between the Guelfs 
 and Ghibellines. That the weakness for perfuming one's 
 person was inherited in this famih' is shown b}' the fact 
 that in France a descendant of Frangipani, Marquis 
 de Frangipani, Field Marshal under Louis XIII, introduced 
 a kind of perfumed glove, known as "Gants a la Fran- 
 gipani". 
 
 The Greeks learnt from the orientals to anoint 
 their bodies with scented oil. Plinv without further 
 
OINTMENTS. 327 
 
 cjuestion, attributes the invention of sweet-smelling' oint- 
 ments to the Persians. It is said that there were no less 
 than fort\' ointment preparers in the retinue of Darius, 
 when it fell into the hands of Alexander. IMin\ tells us 
 that amon<r tlie boot\- taken at that time was the ointment 
 chest, adorned with gold, pearls and precious stones, in 
 which Alexander kept the works of I lomer, so tliat. as 
 he said, the most priceless work of the human mind might 
 repose in the most costly case. In Greece the use 
 of sweet-scented ointments was considered effeminate: the 
 more manh' athlete despised it and rubbed himself in the 
 GA'mnasium with pure oil. 
 
 Theophrastus, Plin^• and Dioscorides relate how per- 
 tumed unguents were prepared in ancient times. The 
 "aromata" were mixed with the oils and heated together. 
 Theophrastus sa\s. in the third century B. C, that the 
 process had to be performed under water to prevent the 
 '"aromata" from burning. The oil most used was that 
 of the Oliye. strained and artificially bleached, and ex- 
 pressed from unripe fruits so as to be as colourless as 
 possible. Besides this the oil from sweet and bitter al- 
 monds, Sesame oil. Castor oil and Oil of Ben were used. 
 This last was particularh' valued because it is scentless 
 and does not easih' turn rancid. It would be used now- 
 a-days for hair oil were it not that it has practically 
 disappeared from trade. The tree from which the Oil 
 of Ben was obtained was called in ancient times Balanos 
 or Myrobalanon ("Ointment acorn"'). It is the J/or///o'a 
 aptera, a plant indigenous to Arabia and Egypt, whose 
 fruits, the Ben nuts, yield the oil \)\ expression. 
 
328 OINTMENTS. 
 
 Dioscorides, in his "Materia medica'', a work pro- 
 babh' written about the middle of the hrst centur^' A. D., 
 warns us against the least trace of water remaining in 
 the oil, and recommends pouring the oil several times 
 from one jar into another after these have been smeared 
 with honey and salt. The salt extracts all the moisture 
 from the oil. Myrrh and other Balsams, Cardamoms, 
 Calamus, root-stock of Iris, perfumed flowers and fruits 
 and sweet scented herbs were used to give their '"aro- 
 mata" to the oil. The fact that animal fat could be im- 
 pregnated with perfume was also known. Rose ointment 
 seems to have been universalh' used, and Dioscorides 
 describes its preparation also. Gum and resin were added 
 to the ointments to colour them, and also, as was said, to 
 flx their scent. Many unguents were coloured with "Dra- 
 gons' blood", the blood-red resin of the Dragon tree, 
 (Dracaena Draco), or with Anchusa, the same colouring 
 matter which we obtain from the root of Anchusa tijic- 
 toria, oiu' Alkanet. This latter was also recommended 
 for colouring the Rose oil. The variety of unguents be- 
 came greater and greater. One single ointment would 
 contain a large number of ingredients. The Egyptian 
 ointment "Metopium" was made from bitter almonds with 
 the addition of "omphalium, cardamomum, juncum, cala- 
 mum, mel, vinum, myrrham, semen balsami, galbanum, 
 resinam terebintham". As far as the meanings of these 
 names are known toda^' this ointment therefore contained, 
 besides the oil of bitter almonds, the oil of unripe olives ; 
 the volatile oils of Cardamom, of the sweet-scented An- 
 dropogon grass and of Calamus; honey; wine; the 
 
OINTMENTS. 329 
 
 iiulsani of the Xorth African tree, Juihaiiiodcfidron »iyrr/ui: 
 "Balsam seeds", that is to sa\- the pea-sized fruits of the 
 Arabian tree Bahcvuodciidroii o-f/iadcnsr; the jrum-resin 
 of a Persian umbellate, Kcrula galhainllua\ and lastK 
 the turpentine of the Turpentine-Pistachias, We can form 
 some conception of the scent of this ointment; it must 
 have smelt principalh' of bitter almonds and Balsam. 
 These ointments were obtained from many different places; 
 from Eg\pt, Delos, Mendesium, Corinth, Cilicia, Rhodes, 
 Cyprus, and later from Naples, Capua and Praeneste. 
 They varied constantly according to taste and fashion. 
 Some of these ointments were ver^' expensive, and 
 afforded work to a whole armA' of preparers and vendors. 
 In the shops of the ointment-dealers idlers lounged about. 
 Shad\" spots were chosen for these shops so that the 
 ointments, which were kept in jars of lead or stone, might 
 not suffer from the heat of the sun. The stone, which 
 we call Alabaster, was much worked for these vessels, 
 but as Rheinhold Sigismund seeks to prove in his book 
 on "aromata'', the ancient word Alabastron appears to 
 have referred more to the shape than to the material ot 
 the ointment jars. 
 
 The abundant information given us by Athenaeus 
 shows to what excess perfumed unguents were used in 
 Greece. He relates that the S\'barites of Athens anointed 
 each part of their bod\' \\ith a different ointment. Eg\ptian 
 unguents were used for feet and thighs, Plioenician for 
 jaws and cliest, Sis\mbrion unguents for the arms, Ama- 
 racon unguent for hair and CAebrows, and Serp\llos unguent 
 for chin and neck. Imagine the scent of a human 
 
330 OINTMENTS. 
 
 being anointed in this manner! For the Amaracon unguent 
 smelt of Marjoram, the SerpyHos unguent of Thyme, the 
 Sisymbrion of a Mint, the Egyptian and Phoenician of 
 bitter almonds and Balsam. A veritable perfumer's shop ! 
 Athenaeus, in his Symposium, tells us further that Demet- 
 rius Phalereus not only anointed his whole bod}', but 
 also dyed his hair yellow in order to look more attractive. 
 At banquets they used to anoint their heads so that 
 the wine should not affect them ; for when the head is 
 dry, so said Myronides, the fumes ascend. Hence, also, 
 the use of wreaths which were thought to insure the 
 wearer against intoxication by keeping the head cool, and 
 to prevent headaches. Possibly the Ivy wreaths used in 
 earher times might have served this purpose, but hardly 
 the later ones made of sweet-smelling flowers. For these 
 were woven of roses, lilies, or "violets" (wallflowers or 
 stocks), and also frequently sprinkled with perfumed un- 
 guents by attendants. We read in this Symposium of Athen- 
 aeus' that at the showy processions of King Antiochus 
 Epiphanes in the grove of Daphne numerous women walked 
 about with gold vessels from which they sprinkled the 
 crowd with perfumes. The same king, who was later 
 called in joke Epimanes, that is to say the Lunatic, used 
 to appear in the public baths when the populace was 
 assembled there, and anoint himself with costly oils. 
 Once someone said to him : — "How fortunate you are, 
 O King, to be able to use such sweet-smelling unguents, 
 and to diffuse such a pleasant perfume everywhere". 
 Antiochus made no reply, but next day, after the bath, 
 he had a large jar of myrrh poured over the man's head. 
 
PERFUMES. 331 
 
 Others now wallowed in the oil wliich had been spilt, 
 manv slipped and tell, among others the king, which 
 evoked universal iiilaritv. This Antiochus must have been 
 verA' eccentric indeed, for even liis gifts were peculiar in 
 the extreme. He would present dice to one man, dates 
 to another, or gold to a third. 
 
 It is said that the Lacedaemonians drove the unguent- 
 dealers and the dNers out of Sparta, because the former 
 spoilt good oil and the latter robbed wool of its original 
 purity. LACurgus and Socrates protested against perfumed 
 ointments, but with as little effect as did the two Cen- 
 sors, Publius Licinius Crassus and Lucius Julius Caesar, 
 later in Rome. Plin\' informs us that they issued an edict 
 in the Aear 189 B, C. prohibiting the sale of "exotic" 
 unguents. 
 
 The hair and clothes of Roman ladies were per- 
 fumed with such strong scent that, according to Pliny, 
 it could be smelt at a distance. This was all the more 
 foolish, he savs, in as much as others benefitted more bv 
 this expensive luxurA- than did those who paid for it. 
 Plutarch also laments this extravagant use of unguents 
 He relates how, at a banquet given to 
 Nero by Salvius Otho, costlv ungu- 
 ents flowed from gold and 
 silver pipes on all sides and 
 cjuitc drenched the guests. 
 Juvenal, in his Satires, makes 
 sport of Crispinus. the fav- 
 ourite of Domitian, saving that 
 even in the morninrr he diffused 
 
332 COENA TRIMALCHIONIS. 
 
 more Cardamom perfume than two funeral processions. 
 Petronius, in his "Coena Trimalchionis", gives us a very 
 realistic description of Nero's times, dealing also with the 
 passion for perfumes and the excessive use of unguents. 
 Though the colouring ma^' be vivid this picture is only 
 in accordance with the customs then prevalent among the 
 showy upstarts of those times. During the most luxurious 
 and protracted banquets, at which the rarest dishes were 
 served up dressed in the most skilful manner, the most 
 varied surprises followed one another. Suddenly from 
 the ceiling a huge hoop is let down, round which hang 
 golden wreaths and flasks of perfumed essences. These 
 are gifts for the guests. Towards the end of the feast 
 the company becomes boisterous and the drunken Tri- 
 malchio conceives the idea of having the garments, in 
 which he wished to be buried, brought in. He orders 
 scented water to be fetched and a sample of that wine 
 with which his limbs are to be washed. He opens a flask 
 of Spikenard essence and sprinkles his guests with it, 
 expressing the hope that this perfume may be as pleasant 
 to him after death as it is in life. Petronius was one of the 
 favourite authors of the eighteenth centur}' ; and about the 
 middle of this century — as I understand from the intro- 
 duction to LudwigFriedlander's "Petronius" — the "Coena 
 Trimalchionis" had already been translated six times into 
 French. At the court of Hanover, in 1792, it was even perfor- 
 med at the Carnival by royal actors. By the wash of Queen 
 Sophia Charlotte of Prussia Leibnitz had to describe this 
 performance to the Princess von Hohenzollern-Hechingen, 
 and he did so in a French letter on February 25, 1702. 
 
EPIGRAM OF MARTIAL. 333 
 
 From a biting' epiirram of Martial we are able to 
 gatlier b\' what jKirticular perfume, among other pecu- 
 liarities, a popular boon-com]>anion might be known at 
 the time of I )omitian — towards the end of the first 
 centur\' "A. I). 
 
 "The}' tell me Cotilus that you're a beau : 
 What this is, Cotilus, I wish to know". 
 '•A beau is one, who with the nicest care, 
 In parted locks divides his curling liair; 
 One who with balm and cinnamon smells sweet, 
 Whose humming lips some Spanish air repeat; 
 Whose naked arms are smoothed with pumice stone, 
 And tossed about with traces all his own : 
 A beau is one who takes his constant seat. 
 From morn to evening where the ladies meet; 
 And ever, on some sofa hoverinef near. 
 Whispers some nothing in some fair one's ear; 
 Who scribbles thousand billets-doux a day; 
 Still reads and scribbles, reads, and sends away: 
 A beau is one who shrinks, if nearh' pressed 
 B\' the coarse garment of a neighbour guest; 
 \\ ho knows who tiirts with whom, and still is found 
 At each good table in successive round : 
 A beau is one — none better knows than he 
 A race horse, and his noble pedigree''. 
 "Indeed ? Why, Cotilus, if this be so. 
 What teasing, trifling thing is called a beau !" 
 (Translation In' Elton). 
 Xever since those ancient da\ s have perfumes been 
 so extravaganth used, though at the courts of France 
 
 14 
 
 
334 COSMETICS. 
 
 and England they were sometimes freely indulged in, as 
 for instance in France at the time of the Renascence, 
 under the influence of the Italian artists with whom Francis I 
 and Catharine de Medicis loved to surround themselves. 
 Then people revelled in perfumed pastes, pomades 
 and scented gloves. Cosmetics came into fashion and 
 called forth quite a special literature on the subject. The 
 fact that Diana of Poitiers retained the charm of youth 
 to a great age, although she was married at thirteen to 
 Louis of Breze, Grand Seneschal of Normandy, was ascribed 
 to cosmetics, the secret of which Paracelsus had conlided 
 to her. The abuse of cosmetics during the times of the 
 Valois still continued under Henry I\". Queen Maria 
 de Medicis had among her retinue a "Racommodeur de 
 visage", and she herself, as well as all her ladies of honour, 
 even the very oldest, were quite plastered over with red 
 and white. A reaction was bound to follow and under 
 Louis XIII beautiful Anna of Austria re-introduced oint- 
 ments to the favour of the court. Then came the "Pates 
 d'Amandes" and the various "Cremes" and "Rouges", which 
 lent artificial colour to ladies' complexions. Louis XI\^ 
 did not like cosmetics; so their use declined during his 
 reign, but only to receive a renewed impulse during the 
 "Regence". At this time specifics flourished which were 
 supposed to ensure perpetual youth and beauty. The 
 notorious Cagliostro received from the equally notorious 
 Dubarry, and from other beauties, no mean sums for 
 these specifics. In spite of this rouge was again less used 
 under Louis XV, and "Rouge de Portugal en tasse" was 
 of a less vivid colour. Yet the sale of rouge was still so 
 
COSMETICS. 335. 
 
 great tliat in tlic \ ear IJSO a compam- offered the 
 government li\e million francs for the monopoly of selling 
 a rouge of a special ciualit\ . Even purple paint was 
 tried in the gardens of the Palais Ro^'al. and created a 
 nine da\s' wonder in Paris. Towards the end of the 
 centur\-, under the influence of Marie Antoinette, these 
 vivid colours vanished from the faces of the ladies, and 
 tlie taste for strong scents disappeared at the same time; 
 now tlie ideal became one of tender melanclioh' and 
 modesty. 
 
 Thus cosmetics and perfumery accjuired that refined 
 tone which the}' still retain today. Under the Empress 
 Josephine who, as a Creole, loved strong perfumes, there 
 was a passing revival of tlie older style. Napoleon I 
 himself used onh' Eau de Cologne which he sprinkled 
 over his head and shoulders ever\' morninp". 
 
 Since the sixteenth centur^• French taste in perfumes 
 had had great influence among other nations; in the 
 seventeenth century it became supreme, as did French 
 fashions. 
 
 It was France and England principalh' who supplied 
 the world with their perfumes. Only Eau de Cologne 
 succeeded in surpassing these and attaining a world-wide 
 repute. Germany has lately begun to take her place in 
 the front rank, if not for "bouquets", at least for unmixed 
 perfumes. The Leipzig products in this branch have 
 succeeded be\ond all expectations: and German^■ is well 
 to the front with her chemical products, which now play 
 such an important part in perfumer^^ She also principally 
 supplies the world with those antiseptics which prevent 
 
 14* 
 
336 COSMETICS. 
 
 putrefaction and decay and check the spread of noxious 
 germs. As cleanliness increases, the use of cosmetics 
 declines; for these are incompatible with that clean- 
 liness upon which bodily health and beauty of com- 
 plexion depend. 
 
 Under the Valois, when strong perfumes were in 
 high fayour, it was not usual, even at court, to pay any 
 attention to personal cleanliness. A book published in 
 1644 entitled "Les lois de la galanterie francaise", deals 
 with the "Luxe de proprete" which was then coming 
 into yogue, and which consisted in washing your hands 
 daily and your face almost as often ! 
 
 The mountains were reflecting light and warmth from 
 all sides on the flower plantations of Grasse. It was hot 
 in the town ; thick clouds of fine dust rose A\ith each 
 breath of wind, and the smell of sandalwood in the streets 
 was oppressive ; we suddenly became wear}' of wandering 
 and returned to the north. 
 
FIFTH JOURNEY. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Oince the beginning of the year unusually mild 
 weather had prevailed all over central Europe, and many 
 plants in the Rhine valley wore quite a spring-like appear- 
 ance in the earh' days of March. The drooping twigs 
 of the Willows were already clothed in tender green. 
 The Cornel (Cornus mas) was decked with its yellowish 
 flowers, and Crocuses, Snowdrops, Daffodils and Winter 
 Aconites (Erantliis hiemalis) brightened the garden 
 borders. With spring so far advanced and promising, 
 it was difficult to decide on leaving home ; and on the 
 other side of the Alps we almost regretted our decision. 
 For the trees were still bare, and only clumps of Prim- 
 roses and white Crocuses held forth a promise of warmer 
 days. The whole winter had been exceptionalh' mild 
 and sunny in Southern Europe ; but the vegetation 
 
338 JOURNEY SOUTH. 
 
 showed no sign of life yet. It was awaiting the moment, 
 fixed by long heredity, when it should reawaken to life 
 and activity. It was different in the north; there the 
 low temperature of winter had affected the plants and 
 induced them to sprout early. For frost sets up chemical 
 processes in the plant which stimulate this activity. It 
 is this which in the North is onh- too often the cause 
 of the premature sprouting of our plants, after which 
 late frosts or snow-falls destroy- the shoots and buds 
 which had been so carefulh' protected through the winter 
 by their bud-scales. Experiments prove that certain 
 chemical stimulants have the same effect on plants as 
 frost. The Danish botanist, W. Johannsen, demonstrated 
 this in the case of ether vapour, and many market 
 gardeners are now apphing the process to fruit growing. 
 The plants are subjected to the ether vapour in special 
 boxes for about 4(S hours. In many cases, especially 
 with the Elder, the most surprising results are obtained. 
 
 As in the plain of Lombardy, so at Genoa, the 
 deciduous trees were all bare, and not until we reached 
 Nervi was I able to forget the winter and rejoice that 
 I had decided to travel southward. 
 
 It was late in the evening when I arrived at Nervi. 
 The surrounding objects could no longer be distinguished, 
 but the silhouettes of the Palms against the star-lit sky, 
 and the perfumes which were wafted to us in the carriage, 
 proved that we had been suddenly transported into a 
 different climate. 
 
 Golden sunbeams streaming into the room through 
 the openings in the shutters awoke me next morning 
 
NERVI. 339 
 
 in the Hotel Eden. Throwing wide the windows, I was 
 enchanted by the sublime outlook over land and sea. 
 For, though I have many times before beheld this scene, 
 it never fails to make an impression on me and stir my 
 inmost soul. How glorious is the world! And \et how 
 dark can be the shadows that brood over it ! Below 
 me the garden was already in its spring splendour, and 
 the whole earth was resplendent in festal attire ; and 
 be\'ond stretched the endless, sapphire-blue sea. Here 
 was a profusion of colours : there a profusion of light. 
 Amono- the dark - grreen Palms and Oranp'e trees and 
 silvery- grey OUves, gay Roses gleamed. The bright 
 Camellia bushes, in the garden across the road, bore 
 such numbers of blossoms that the place seemed 
 sprinkled with purple. 
 
 We hasten down to the sea onto the splendid parade 
 of which Nervi is justly proud. The waves still dash 
 as ot old against those rocks on which I had dreamt 
 away so many hours in bv-gone years: the old Saracen 
 tower still keeps watch over the coast ; and in the east 
 lies the picturesque promontory of Portofino, bathed 
 in blue and flecked with gleaming white hamlets sunning 
 themselves on its slopes. 
 
 We, too, have come here to sun ourselves. We 
 have been pining so long for more warmth, more light 
 and more colour. 
 
 Very fair is this bay of Nervi with its fringe of ever- 
 green gardens, its background of steep and loftv moun- 
 tains, and the clear-cut promontorv of Portofino standing 
 out so proudly into the sea. 
 
340 NERVI. 
 
 The marine parade at Nervi was widened a few years 
 ago for the invahds who frequent it, and an iron balus- 
 trade erected. This is certainly an improvement. But 
 I miss the old grev wall which harmonised so well, both 
 in form and colour, with its surroundings. Many will rejoice 
 that thev can now reach the rocks easily by stone steps 
 leading down to the sea from the parade. But one is no 
 longer so secluded as in former years, when access to the 
 rocks was more difficult. There are still, however, many 
 unfrequented nooks, where one may be out of sight of 
 the parade, with only the blue sea in front, lianked by 
 the ridge of Portofino and the chain of snowy Alps. 
 Here the sea becomes, as it were, a companion to whom 
 one may confide one's joys and sorrows, for in its ever- 
 changing moods it seems to share the feelings of one's 
 heart. How often do we see it sad, wrathful or agitated, 
 and then again, gentle and beaming with inward bliss, 
 this ever-changing sea! Now it lies peacefully in its basin, 
 its ripples caressing the rocks; and then it hurls itself 
 against the shore, as though challenging the solid earth 
 to open combat. How gloomy and terrible is this mighty 
 element when it rages blindlv 'midst the howling of the 
 wind, dashing its waters up towards the clouds, as though 
 threatening the vault of heaven; or when blood-red re- 
 flections tinge its crests, and deep chasms open between 
 its billows. Man turns away in terror and rejoices to feel 
 the solid earth under his feet. With the feelings of a 
 child he calls her Mother, for can he not trust himself to 
 her with entire confidence ? It is seldom that she opens 
 her chasms to engulf the children she has borne. 
 
PLINY. — THE^ARTH. 341 
 
 On the insecure vessels which ventured into the open 
 sea in ancient times man was mucli more at tlie mercv 
 of tlu' waves than now. And we can understand the leelings 
 wliich prompted Plin\- to write as he did in praise of tlie 
 earth. "'Rightly do we call thee Mother, O Earth, for thou 
 overwhelmest us with benefits. As the Heavens belong to 
 the Gods, so art thou ours. Thou takest us under thy 
 care from our birth, providest for our wants, retainest us 
 under th\' protection, and, when the rest of Nature for- 
 sakes us, thou receivest us back into th\^ maternal bosom. 
 Blessed be thou, holy benefactress, doubh- blessed, tor 
 thou permittest us to share in thy sacredness. For thou 
 bearest our memorials and inscriptions, and dost perpet- 
 uate our names far bevond our short span of life. Water 
 falls upon thee as rain or hardened into hail ; it washes 
 up in waves and rushes back in mad torrents. The air con- 
 denses into clouds which burst in storms over thee. But 
 thou, O Earth, remainest ever kind and indulgent. Ever 
 ready to minister unto mortals, thou permittest untold 
 wealth to be wrested from thee or often sejuanderest it 
 upon us unasked. How man\' are the perfumes which thou 
 diffusest; what delicacies thou providest and what am- 
 brosial draughts ! How rich art thou in form and colour ! 
 What we entrust to thee thou gi\est us back with interest. 
 How many creatures dost thou nourish to be of service 
 to us!" Carried away b}- his unbounded admiration for 
 the nnmilicent benefactress, Pliny goes on to say that the 
 earth herself produces poisons onU- out of s^-mpathy for 
 men, for she would not have those who are wear\- of life 
 endure a painful death hv starvation. She therefore \ields 
 
342 MICHELET AT NERVI. 
 
 secret juices, which, flowing easily over the lips, will put 
 an end to life without disfiguring the body and without 
 the shedding of blood, or any suffering beyond great thirst. 
 
 To the Orientals the sea is still "The Night ol 
 Abysses". A feeling of terror is also the dominating note 
 in the descriptions of the sea which J. Michelet wrote in 
 the middle of the last century. His book "La Mer", which 
 he dedicated to the sea, was as much read in its time 
 as were the other works of the great French historian 
 and philosopher. The sight of a sea-storm arouses terror 
 in Michelet, and it seems to him as though all Nature 
 were participating in this feeling. He sees even the trees 
 straining away from the sea to avoid destruction bv the 
 annihilating wind which blows with irresistible force across 
 the measureless plain of waters. Michelet does not hear 
 in the turmoil of the waves those soothing harmonies 
 which appeal to the soul and have power to soften sorrow. 
 He hears in it only the eternal menace of coming storms. 
 
 About the middle of last century Michelet spent six 
 months in Nervi. He considered this ba^^ one of the most 
 sheltered and most beautiful in the world. One dav he 
 hurries down to the sea to witness a rising storm. There 
 is no level beach here, onh' a small path on the dark 
 rocks bv the sea. This path runs up and down, often 
 vertically over the water, at some height. The objects 
 round can hardlv be discerned because of the sprav from 
 the waves, and whirlwinds draw the thick veil ever closer. 
 What can be seen is full of terror. Rough shattered 
 walls of rock, peaks, sharp ridges and sudden rifts, 
 all compel the angry waves to leap on high with incred- 
 
NERVI. 
 
 343 
 
 ible energy and 
 infernal turmoil. 
 The rockv coast 
 receives the impac 
 of the thundering 
 waves detiantly, 
 shattering them and 
 churning them 
 to foam. There 
 is a wild roaring an 
 raging, thundering and shriek- 
 ing, which makes one wish 
 to stop one's ears; and terrified, 
 one shrinks into a recess of the 
 wall to avoid being carried 
 the furious waves. 
 
 The sight of a storm 
 elates me, for it seems as 
 though Nature were inspire 
 At such times the tlioughts 
 feelings of every da\' life 
 and I seem to be removed b 
 the realms of realit\-. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 ^'onder watch-tower still stand- 
 ing on the shore at Nervi reminds us that security 
 has not ahva\s reigned upon this coast. Even at the 
 beginning of last centur\', serious dangers threatened the 
 traveller. Petit Radel. ••L'hirurgienmajor du roi", travelled 
 
 Phillyrea 
 anguftifolia. 
 
344 GENOA TO SPEZIA. 
 
 in 1812 from Lerici to Genoa in a boat. lie tells us that he 
 chose the sea route because of the fatigue entailed by the 
 land journey. But he had reason to regret his choice later; 
 not because he suffered from sea -sickness, but because 
 of the dangers to which he found himself exposed. For 
 he learnt during the voyage that Algerian freebooters 
 and renegades were in the habit of King in wait in the 
 deep recesses of this coast and falling upon vessels suddenly 
 as they rounded some headland. The sea journey from 
 Spezia to Genoa occupied from twent^^-four to thirty hours, 
 and those who reached Genoa without mishap considered 
 themselves lucky indeed. 
 
 It is difficult for us now, when the express train 
 covers the distance between Genoa and Spezia in two 
 and a half hours, to imagine in what a condition the means 
 of communication were formerh' along the Ligurian coast. 
 Two Swedish noblemen, who travelled in Italy in 
 1758, describe their experiences on this part of the coast 
 in the "Neue Nachrichten oder Anmerkungen iiber Italien 
 und iiber die Italiener", a German translation of which 
 was published in Leipzig in 17(>6 by "Bernhard Christoph 
 Breitkopf e^ Sohn". They had engaged a vessel at 
 Leghorn for themselves and their servants. It had been 
 stipulated that the Padrone should take no other passengers. 
 But in spite of this they found, when they came to em- 
 bark, that tlie vessel was not only laden with goods but 
 crowded with other passengers — ■ Moors, sailors, and 
 a Dominican accompanied b\' a doubtful looking lady. 
 A storm compelled them to seek shelter in the harbour 
 of Portoiino, and there they had to spend their Christ- 
 
GENOA TO SPEZIA. 345 
 
 mas holidii\s. Since the I'adrone seemed to think the 
 weather still unpropitious, and time was precious, one of 
 the noblemen decided to walk to Genoa, following' roads 
 that were in some places no better than goat tracks. 
 And ACt the \'ia Aurelia had once led over the moun- 
 tain of Porto-luio and further along the coast to Genoa. 
 But it apparently existed no longer. It was Napoleon I 
 who undertook to make a road on the eastern Riviera 
 as he had alread\' done on the western, generalh' follow- 
 ing the track of the old Roman Road. This was at the 
 time of the French occupation of (jenoa, \\hich lasted 
 till IS 14. The plans for the road were not, however, 
 all carried out. For in a "Manuel du \"oA'ageur en Italie", 
 published in Milan 1818. we are told that between Genoa 
 and Lucca there was onh- a path which followed the shore, 
 or ran along the slopes of the mountain, and the various 
 portions of the path were not connected, so that it was 
 almost useless. It was not until the middle of last cen- 
 tury that stage-coaches began to run on the road which 
 was then completed. These were soon taken advantage 
 of hv strangers. 
 
 Those who travelled along this stretch of coast on 
 these footpaths were enthusiastic about their beautA, the 
 luxuriance of the vegetation, the profusion of golden fruit 
 on the Orange trees and the spicv perfume of the ever- 
 green shrubs. But the town of Xervi, it seems, created 
 a different impression on travellers. The stage coach 
 rattled for so long between tlie endless rows of houses 
 that an Italian Abbe explained to his friend, Otto Speyer, 
 who published '"Bilder Italienischer Landschaft'' in 1859, 
 
346 NERVI. 
 
 that the place was called Nervi "Per die da ai nervi" J 
 — because it gets on one's nerves ! 
 
 Nervi is particularly well sheltered from the north, 
 west and east, so that practicalh' only southerly winds 
 reach it. The parade, which is further protected from 
 the north by high garden walls, is free from dust, and 
 affords for invalids a shelter which is exceptionally good 
 even for the Riviera. Other visitors to Nervi. who come 
 merely for rest and change, complain of the limited 
 number of walks round the place. And there is cer- 
 tainly no great variety, for even the ascent to the church 
 of St. Ilario, beautiful at it is, opens up no new views. 
 The panorama is still shut in to the west, north and east 
 by the same high mountains which can be seen from the 
 shore. The high road is certainly less dust\' than those 
 of the western Riviera, but not attractive to pedestrians 
 after long drought. Thus we must fall back upon the 
 shore whose rocks we never tire of visiting. We love to 
 linger here till evening, when the sun begins to sink 
 behind the Apennines beyond Genoa, and the headland 
 of Portolino glows purple in its light, when every little 
 hamlet on its slopes is touched with fire and reflects 
 long streaks of gold across the sea. This is the hour of 
 Titian colouring, when all things are bathed in rich gold, 
 and seem rather to illuminate the sky than to receive 
 light from it — the hour which awakens in the slumber- 
 ing soul of the artist harmonies of colour that rouse him 
 to achievements he is himself surprised at. 
 
 Adolf Stahr and Fanny Lewald have sat here on 
 the shore, enchanted by the splendour of the scene before 
 
NERVI IN 1858. 347 
 
 them, lioth triuellcrs liad come here b^' "Vcttnrino" in 
 October 185(S. and went to tlic \"ilhi (jropallo. Tliev 
 wandered about its lar<re estate charmed b\- the luxuri- 
 ance ot" the southern N'egetation. Then the\' seated them- 
 selves near a "picturesque and loft\- pavilion, in a nook in 
 the rocks close to the sea, where a small half-shattered 
 boat, l}ing in the angle of a wall, close to the ruins of 
 an old watch-tower, afforded a comfortable resting place". 
 Here they dreamt awav "some truh' enjoyable hours, to 
 be counted among the most blissful of our journe\- in 
 this southern region so highly favoured bv heaven"'. At 
 their feet "the sea, glimmering and shimmering in the 
 hot midday sun, sang its lullaby". Ever\thing around 
 them seemed to be slumbering. "Iridescent lizards sunned 
 their graceful bodies as the}- slept among the perfumed 
 herbs on [the old walls of the tower". In these happy 
 musings it seemed to them '*as though thev were in com- 
 munion with the great Mother of all Beings, who takes 
 back into her all-embracing bosom each of the million 
 children she has borne; ever modellinp- and remodellinp- 
 the material of their organisms into new shapes and forms 
 till the end of time." 
 
 Adolf Stahr could still call the grounds of the Hotel 
 Gropallo, now so much fret[uented bv visitors, "a hea- 
 venly solitude of Nature". As late as 1865 Nervi is 
 barely alluded to in the third edition of Baedeker's 
 "Northern Italy". In this Guide the first inns mentioned 
 on the road between Genoa and Spezia are at Chiavari. 
 It took eleven hours to traverse this distance in the stage 
 coach. Nervi was more fully described in the guidebooks 
 
348 CLIMATE OF NERVI. 
 
 of the early seventies, when the present Grand Hotel 
 was opened as the Pension Anglaise. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 The Lemon trees, growing without any protection, 
 are a better testimony to the mildness of the climate of 
 Nervi than all the statistics given in the guide books. 
 In this respect Nervi is little inferior to the most favoured 
 spots on the Riviera di Ponente; on the other hand it 
 has half again as many rainy da^'s in the winter as they 
 have. This can at once be seen by the vegetation, for 
 the Camellias, which find the Riviera di Ponente too dry, 
 grow luxuriantly here. The same applies to the Azaleas 
 and Gardenias for they also require a certain amount of 
 moisture in the air. 
 
 The cultivation of perfumed flowers has increased as 
 much in Nervi as it has on the Riviera di Ponente. The 
 Nervi carnations are especially esteemed and are sent 
 to the North under the name of Genoese Carnations. 
 
 When wandering in spring among the Olive groves 
 and gardens adjoining the high road we notice a perfume 
 like that of the Sweet Pea, the "Pois de Senteur", 
 (Lathy rus odoratus). This scent comes from the Broad 
 Bean (Vicia Faba), which is much grown all along the 
 Riviera. The seeds are eaten here unripe and raw, when 
 thev taste sweet like unripe green peas. In many districts 
 of Germany the broad bean goes by the contemptuous 
 name of "Saubohne" (Sow bean). And yet this plant 
 deserves to be treated with more respect, for it is one 
 of the most ancient of cultivated plants, so old that its 
 
BROAD BEAN. 
 
 349 
 
 origin is not known. Its cultivation dates from pre- 
 historic times. Certain kinds of broad beans were used, 
 even in ancient times, as food lor cattle; and from others 
 meal was made which was often mixed with the Hour 
 ot cereals. The bean has played an important part in 
 mythology. The seeds were an emblem of death because 
 the black spots on the white flowers were interpreted as 
 
 signs of mourning. I lence 
 the bean came to be 
 eaten at funeral feasts. 
 Pythagoras forbade his 
 disciples to eat them 
 because, as Plinv tells 
 us, he considered them 
 A Ij indigestible, 
 
 l" and it was said 
 that they made 
 men dull and 
 caused sleep- 
 lessness. On the 
 road to Elusis 
 
350 BROAD BEAN. 
 
 stood a temple dedicated to the Bean-God, Kyamites. 
 At the festival of the Lemurs — the wandering spirits 
 of wicked mortals — it was the custom to throw black 
 beans over one's head to protect oneself and one's relations 
 from the persecution of these wraiths. Soup prepared from 
 the meal of broad beans was offered to various Deities. 
 French beans were offered to them at the time of the 
 Bean Feast, the Calendae Fabariae, which was celebrated 
 in June. In lawsuits white beans were used to signify 
 acquittal, and black ones for condemnation of the accused. 
 Broad beans have been found in Egypt, in a tomb of 
 the Twelfth Dynasty, which reigned about 2,000 B. C. 
 Schliemann also dug up beans at Tro^'. 
 
 None of the customs of antiquit^' relating to the 
 bean can possibly have applied to our Scarlet Runner 
 (Phaseolus vulgaris), since this onh' reached us after 
 the discovery of America. For this reason the old name 
 "Bohne'' only applied in the German language to the 
 broad bean, and the name "Buffbohne" was used when 
 it became necessary to distinguish it from the new American 
 "Runner''. Among the Greek peasantr^' the broad bean 
 is still the commonest article of food. The meal pre- 
 pared from this bean was recently much advertised. 
 For bean flour is, next to lentil flour, the principal 
 ingredient of "Revalenta Arabica'', which was introduced 
 from North America and sold at a high price as an 
 invalid food and remedy for all sorts of complaints. 
 The name was formed by inverting the first two 
 letters of Erva Lenta, really Ervuni lens, the name of 
 the Lentil. 
 
INULA. — SMILAX. 351 
 
 Tlie pliinl which irrows in siicli masses below the 
 marine parade at Xervi, witli tufts of dark green leaves 
 sprouting even from last \ear's dried up inflorescences, 
 is Inula viscosa (Fig. p. 239). It is a weed wliich cannot 
 be overlooked as it intrudes everywhere. I'he Ligurians 
 call it "Nasca" and attribute various healing properties 
 to it. The leaves, when bruised, emit a strong aromatic 
 odour. B\- this smell and the stickiness of all its parts 
 we recognise it as the real "Alant". The peasants use 
 the leaves principalh' as a remed\' for viper-bite. In 
 many districts Inula is put into wine to improve its 
 keeping properties. On the rocks and walls here we 
 also see the lovelv, silver\--gre}', bushy Cineraria niari- 
 tima, (Fig. p. '^l). The large handsome pinnate-lobed 
 leaves owe their silver\' appearance to their thick hairy 
 covering. Cineraria produces bright yellow tlower-heads 
 in the summer. The plant is much used in our own 
 gardens for forming a light border to gay tlow^er beds. 
 
 Man\- different plants are overgrown by the Smilax 
 aspera, (Fig. p. 387) on the coast at Nervi. Its berries 
 are generally green in the spring, but in particularly 
 warm and sunny spots some of them are already turning 
 red. Occasionally the Smilax will climb to tlie top of 
 a high tree and festoon it with evergreen garlands. It 
 clings \er\ closely to other plants, and this may have 
 given rise to the legend that the Nymph Smilax was 
 changed into this climber when she died ot love for the 
 \outh Crocos. 
 
 Pines and Pittosporum stretch out towards the sea 
 above the high garden walls which border the marine 
 
PORTOFINO. 
 
 parade, and IvV' trails over them. These plants are not 
 injured bv the salt sprav. But man^^ other trees are so 
 much injured b^' it that the^' appear to be shorn off at 
 the level of the wall. Many cheerful villas and summer- 
 houses are seen from the shore gleaming amongst the 
 dark foliage of the gardens. They add life and interest 
 to the scene. Beyond the Hotel Eden is the \^illa Cle- 
 mentine, now a Convalescent Home for patients of small 
 means. The invalids in this home, founded and suppor- 
 ted by Gratin Graben, are also nursed by her under the 
 name of Sister Selma. Thus does this philanthropic in- 
 stitution fulfil its noble mission! 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 On a clear, sunny morning in the beginning of March 
 we decided upon an excursion to the ridge of Porto- 
 fino. Taking the train to Camogli we then proceeded to 
 Ruta by the beautiful road which commands ever widen- 
 ing views over the Gulf of Genoa. At Ruta we clam- 
 bered up the path leading south along the ridge of the 
 promontor^^ Here the view suddenly extends to the far 
 distance embracing both the bays which the Monte di 
 Portofino divides. Towards the west the luxuriant green 
 coast stretches away in gentle curves closely hemmed in 
 by the Apennines. There appears to be but one town 
 on the shore between us and Genoa. Beyond lies tlie 
 Riviera di Ponente where the snowy tops of the Maritime 
 Alps fioat in the green-blue sky. To the east one bay 
 succeeds another fringing the shore. Here the Apennines 
 are bolder, rising higher and higher, ridge above ridge, 
 
MONTE PI PORTOFINO. 353 
 
 and ciihninatiiio- in l()t"l\- suniinits sjirinklcd with fresh 
 snow. In tlie niistx' distance be\ond vS]iezia rise the rug'ged 
 peaks ot tlie Apuanian .\lps, still shrouded in white. 
 
 .\t tlie northern end of the proinontorx, on wliich 
 \\e now were, nature still wore a rather wintr\- aspect. 
 Most of the shrubs and trees were bare. ^V few Ar- 
 butus (Fig-, p. vV), Tree Heaths (Fi«-. p. 173), and Ever- 
 green Oaks (Fig. p. 3()3), reminded us that we were in 
 the south. I was fortunate enough on this expedition to 
 enjcn' the compan\' of n\v colleague Professor Otto Penzig 
 of (lenoa, to whom \\e owe an illustrated flora of the 
 Riviera. (Flore coloriee du Littoral mediterrancen). He 
 of course knows all the plants here, recalling some to 
 m\' memor\' and giving me information about others. 
 Unfortunateh' there was so little as \'et in tiower that 
 we saw scarceh' an\thing except Primroses and Crocuses. 
 The grev shrub growing in great c|uantities on the slopes 
 here and showing only last year's withered inflorescences, 
 is Jlelichrysiun aiio-iistifoliuni. It smells just as strong 
 as the //. Stocchas which we found on the Cap d' Antibes, 
 and the foliage of the two plants is alike. The sole distinc- 
 tion lies in the withered inflorescence. Whenever we tread 
 on this plant a waft of perfume rises. 
 
 We reached the summit of the mountain without 
 realising the distance we had traversed. It must have 
 been an hour and a half since we left Camogli. Our gaze 
 now ranges free over a wide expanse, but ever returns 
 to the soft blue summits of the Apennines, the distant 
 snow of the Alps and the sunlit sea. The semaphore on 
 the top of the hill is now falling to pieces. A new sig- 
 
354 SAN FRUTTUOSO. 
 
 nal station has been built a little lower down. The ridge 
 slopes steeply down to the south. We followed it to 
 reach the old Abbey of San Fruttuoso which lies on the 
 shore in a secluded inlet. In order to find our bearings 
 we consult the map. A group of rocks, the "pietre strette", 
 lying to the south-east, indicates the direction which we 
 must take. Through these rocks runs the foot-path 
 which then divides. The turn to the left leads to Porto- 
 fino, that to the right goes down to San Fruttuoso. There 
 is a sign-post here, so that ^'0u cannot mistake the path. 
 Soon a few of the houses of San Fruttuoso appear, white 
 among the dark green foliage, down b^' the bosom of 
 the azure sea. This isolated spot is generalh- reached 
 from the sea: but to miss the approach by land is to 
 lose the most favourable impression of the place. P"or the 
 path, as you descend from the heights, is incomparably 
 beautiful and discloses a variety of ravishing prospects. 
 Moreover one is surrounded all along b^' the most luxuri- 
 ant "Macchia", and, early though it is in spring, we revel 
 in the exuberance of the Mediterranean vegetation. The 
 Arbutus (Fig. p. 37) is particularh' abundant on this slope 
 and reaches a considerable size. Next come the Ilex Oak 
 (Fig. p. 363) and the evergreen Buckthorn {Rkammis Ala- 
 ternus, Fig. p. 367). The Tree Heath, now in full flower, 
 shows white, and exhales its pleasant perfume. The 
 Juniper (^. Oxycedrus, Fig. p. 245) also grows plenti- 
 fully on this mountain side, not onA' in its shrubby form, 
 but sometimes rising above the other vegetation as a tree. 
 We are astonished to see it so finely developed. Broad 
 and branching from the base it resembles an Arbor Vitae. 
 
MAQULS AT PORTOFINO. 
 
 35; 
 
 or else it shoots . ;, 
 
 up slender like a L} - 
 press, with bare stem and pyramidal 
 outline. Even our common Juniper 
 (J. coniniiDiis) is capable, under favour- 
 able circumstances, of becoming arbor- 
 escent; but this seldom happens. The 
 Leguminous shrub with yellow tiowers 
 which covers much ground here and there, is (Joroin/la 
 £merus, a plant common on the eastern Riviera. It may 
 easily be distinguished from other yellow-flowered shrubs 
 of the same famih' b\' its imparipinnate leaves and by the 
 inflorescence which is usuallv a three-tlowered peduncle. 
 Coronilla Emcrus differs also from its relatives of the 
 Maquis in being unarmed. Almost as common on the 
 eastern Riviera is another yellow-flowered Leguminous 
 plant, Cytisus irijlorus (Fig. p. 131). This shrub is un- 
 armed like the Coronilla just described: but it is twice 
 as tall. It flowers nuich later, and has trifoliate, not 
 
356 ROPE -MAKING. 
 
 pinnate, leaves. We walked on among the familiar growths 
 which we like so well: Rosemary (Fig. p. 3/1), Cistus (Fig. 
 p. 83), the thorny Calycotome (Fig. p. 61), the Evergreen 
 Rose (J^osa senipervireiis), Lentiscus (Fig. p. 349), Loni- 
 cera, the climbing Asparagus and Smilax. Lower down the 
 mountain Bramble begins to form impenetrable thickets. 
 In this climate it keeps all its leaves through the winter, 
 and thus looks green at all seasons of the year. Anipe- 
 lodesmos tcnax, a remarkably tall grass, with last A'ear's 
 inflorescence rising from the thick tufts, is common through- 
 out the whole Maquis in this spot. It reminds us of 
 Gyneriuni argeuieu)}!^ the Pampas grass which adorns 
 our gardens. In fact the two genera are allied. ;Ampe- 
 lodesmos is so called from its ancient use in tying up 
 vines. It is worthy of note that this grass occurs on the 
 eastern Riviera only in a \tx\ few places for the most 
 part projecting into the sea, such as Monte di Porto- 
 lino, Portovenere, and the Island of Palmaria in the Gulf 
 of Spezia. In San Fruttuoso this grass is the object of 
 a special industry. Ropes of great strength are made 
 from the leaves. These are first dried in the sun, then 
 soaked in water and twisted together in a primitive fashion 
 without further preparation. The fishermen on this coast 
 make use of these ropes to drag their nets to land, and 
 they stand the strain perfectly. 
 
 A fisherman came half way up the hill and offered 
 us his boat for the sail to Portofino. We agreed to his 
 proposal and he walked back with us. He was a well 
 built youth with an intelligent expression, and may have 
 been about twenty years old. His knowledge of plants 
 
A BOTANICAL FISH ERMAN . 357 
 
 lillecl nie \\\l]\ astonishnunU. Aiul l*rofcssor I'enzig, wlio 
 published in 1S<>7 a "I-'lora po]-)olare Ligure", and who 
 lias collected the popular Lii^urian names ol jilants. had 
 onh' to mention an\ shrub or tlower of the district when 
 the \'ounii^ man i^ointed it out. Hut occasionalh' he would 
 mereh- refer to a given plant as "mala herba", accom- 
 pa^^•ing the remark with a gesture indicating aversion. 
 These primitive men are much nearer to Nature than 
 we are: the^■ have lived trom ^•outh up in the open air. 
 and their minds are stored with practical intormation. 
 Thev have a much more lively interest in the natural 
 objects which surround them than our educated people, 
 whose knowledge is ma,inh- derived from text books. 
 Professor Penzig has invariabh- found among these natives 
 a similar acquaintance with plants. Thus it had not escaped 
 the notice of our companion that the Evergreen Buckthorn 
 (Rha)uniis alatn'inis) does not in all situations bear similar 
 leaves. He explained to us that this shrub, when growing 
 higher up on the mountain, has small leaves with serrate 
 edge, but deeper down in the valley the leaves are broader 
 with entire margin : the former variet^- they call "'Sconno 
 selvatico", the latter "Sconno domestico". 
 
 Suddenlw at the turning in the path, there appeared 
 in front of us the unjiretentious church of San Fruttuoso. 
 W e now tollowed a sunk path on whose banks were 
 stretched out the green ropes twisted from grass. Many 
 of these ropes lay coiled up rcad\' for use. Then we 
 passed through an arched passage between high stone 
 houses, left the old Abbe\- behind, and turned into the 
 primitive Osteria, the onl\- one in the place. 
 
 15 
 
358 BIRD CATCHING. 
 
 Here we seated ourselves on a small terrace over- 
 looking the sea, and ordered a frugal meal of eggs and 
 iish. The^' brought in also a "Giardinetto''. A dog, a cat 
 and a fowl joined our party and took care that not a 
 single scrap from the table should be wasted. 
 
 We were particularly interested in this fowl, for it 
 was the first bird that we had set e^'es on since we came 
 to the promontory of Portofino. Professor Penzig, who 
 for some time past has been President of the Genoese 
 Society for the Protection of Animals, has told me what 
 difficulties the Societ^' has had to contend with there. 
 Above all the priesthood has no sympathy with their 
 aims, and p-ives no assistance whatever. This state of 
 things is worst on the southern slopes of the Alps. 
 There the slaughter of small birds is carried on so ruth- 
 lessh" that only a small portion of the birds migrating 
 from the North reach Italy. And here a legion of "Caccia- 
 tori" lies in wait for them. Professor Penzig owns a small 
 property in the Val Camonica, in the Province of Brescia, 
 to the north of Lago d'Iseo, and everA- summer he wit- 
 nesses this annual barbarit\'. At this season there are at 
 least 200 "Roccoli" in full activit^' in this one vallew 
 These are small gardens specialh' designed for bird catch- 
 ing, and planted with Elder, Rowan and other trees 
 and shrubs whose conspicuous berries attract the birds 
 from a distance. Decoy birds, deprived of their e^'esight 
 and imprisoned cages, are concealed in the foliage. 
 These prisoners sing, little suspecting that their melody 
 is luring their fellows to destruction. The whole place 
 is enclosed by nets, two rising side by side like a wall 
 
BIRD CAIXMIINC;. 
 
 359 
 
 1. The meshes of tlie 
 ets are much smaller 
 )se of the outer ones: 
 ; middle of this traj:). 
 ed in a hut, sits the 
 ;1 of Creation, man, 
 e a spider on the 
 watch for his pre^•. 
 When a tlock of 
 ?ar\' and hungry birds- 
 f-passage have settled 
 down in the attrac- 
 tive garden, the fowl- 
 er startles them with 
 loud shouts and tlings out from the hut 
 a noisv instrument called a "Diavolo". 
 i The territied birds llv up obliqueh* and 
 \^'" thus strike the inner net with narrower 
 meshes; these are driven bv the pressure through the 
 wider meshes of the outer net. In this way each 
 bird is caught in a sort of bag, and the proprietor of 
 the "Roccolo" walks at his leisure from one prisoner to 
 the next, twisting their necks. Professor Penzig has been 
 able to examine the daily register of one of these bird- 
 catchers; the number of birds caught by this one man 
 averaged 3,427 per year for the ten ^•cars 1<S92 to 1901. 
 We can from this realise how millions upon millions 
 of migratory birds are thus destroyed. They fetch 
 four centimes each, and find their wa\' to the Italian 
 markets. Is it not distressin<»- to think that we care 
 
 i 
 
360 SAN FRUTTUOSO. 
 
 for our songsters, and protect them during the nesting 
 season by our laws, only that the ItaHan gourmand 
 ma^' use them to flavour his polenta? We must 
 frankly admit that in the cultivated circles of Itah' more 
 and more voices are raised each year in favour of severer 
 measures for the preservation of wild birds. Alay these 
 voices soon succeed in making themselves heard ! I have 
 noticed with great satisfaction that the number of 
 birds has increased in the Olive groves of San Remo 
 and Ospedaletti the last few ^'ears. The Municipalities 
 have restricted the ruthless shooting in order to gain 
 the favour of the visitors. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 The hamlet of San Fruttuoso consists of only a few 
 houses crowded close together on the steep slope. On 
 a rock in their midst rises a square watch tower now 
 used as a dwelling. Above the village the hill rises 
 steeply, clothed first with silvery grey Olives, higher up 
 with dark evergreen Maquis, and fringed on the sky- 
 line by Umbrella Pines. On both sides of the bay the 
 rocks fall abrupth- into the sea as though to shut this 
 spot off from the rest of the world for ever. Only to 
 the south can the eve range over the blue sea and lose 
 itself in the distant sky which over-arches the high 
 mountains. Here could one indeed live in the present 
 day as an anchorite, "the world forgetting, by the world 
 forgot", and then be laid to rest beside the ancient 
 Dorias, — for in this lonely place the Dorias of Genoa 
 were buried in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. 
 
LEGEND OF ST. FRUCTUOSUS. 361 
 
 An old IccTcnd tells us that two disciples of Fructuo- 
 siis. the priests (Tiustino and Procopio, put out to sea 
 with the bod\- of the Saint a few days after his Martyr- 
 dom, which took place durino- the reign of Gallienus in 
 the -sear 25*). After bein<»' tossed about on the waves 
 for two da\s and two nights, an angel appeared to Gius- 
 tino in a dream and indicated the place where they 
 were to land: "Mons vero magnus, qui vobis prior appar- 
 ebit. ibi est locus, sed draco pestifer moratur". A legend 
 of this sort is hardly complete without a dragon! It 
 represents the spirit of evil which endeavours to prevent 
 hoh- deeds. In this case it ma\- have been s\'mbolic of 
 the wild sea which made the landing on the steep rocky 
 clitls of the promontory so ditlicult. Next morning the 
 boat, with the remains of the Saint, arrived at the foot 
 of the mountain indicated hv the angel. A storm was 
 raging and the promontor\' was veiled in black clouds 
 from wliich lightning flashed and thunder resounded. 
 They saw tlie dragon also, but he seemed to be fettered, 
 and was soon hurled into the depths hv some unseen 
 power. Thus the\' were able to land, and founded in 
 this loneh' spot the Abbe\' of San Fruttuoso di Capodi- 
 monte which soon became important. At the end of the 
 tenth centur\' it received rich donations from Adelasia, 
 afterwards St. Adelaide, widow of the Emperor Otto. 
 But even this secluded ba\' in the mountain side was not over- 
 looked by the Saracens who plundered the Abbey later. 
 Its importance, however, still increased and it was an 
 -Vbbot of San Fruttuoso, Martino Doria, who in 1125 
 built the Church of San Matteo in (xenoa and made it 
 
 15* 
 
362 A BBEY OF SAN FRUTTUOSO. 
 
 dependent upon the Abbey. The number of churches 
 under the control of the Abbey was constantly increasing, 
 and in the course of the thirteenth century the Dorias chose 
 San Fruttuoso as their burial place. Here Admiral Egidio 
 Doria, the victor of Meloria, and other admirals of this illus- 
 trious house found their last resting place. This aroused 
 the jealousy of the rival monastery of Cervara and resulted 
 in the monastery of San Fruttuoso being closed by Pope 
 Julius III in 1550 and its being handed over to the secular 
 rule of the Dorias. xA.ndrea Doria then had the tower built 
 to protect the Abbey from the Corsairs. But the pro- 
 tection of the Dorias did not last long, so that all the 
 monuments of ancient times would have disappeared had 
 not the Abbey been cared for with pious affection bv 
 the fishermen. The offerings are but small which these 
 men, both few and poor, have been able to contribute 
 to their parish ; hence the church looks a little dilapidat- 
 ed and the ashes of the Saint rest under an unpreten- 
 tious altar, although thev are considered the oldest relics 
 in Liguria. A flight of stone steps leads down from the 
 church to the ancient Abbey. A small quadrangle with 
 old cloisters opens to the left, whilst in front is a vaulted 
 chamber which contains the tombs of the Dorias. These 
 also have suffered and only the slender pillars and arches, 
 consisting of alternate black and white marble as the 
 taste of the fourteenth century dictated, tell of former 
 splendour. These monuments can no longer be said to be 
 beautiful; but they afford food for reverent contemplation. 
 We now entrusted ourselves to the sea. Westward 
 the sky had veiled itself in mist, and the signal station 
 
m' UOAT VO PORIOKINO. 
 
 363 
 
 on the ridi^e announcetl a chaii^'c ot wu'atli- 
 er. As thouii'h in anticipation ol , \^ 
 an approacliing storm tlie sea \ 
 heaved like tlie breast 
 of a tronbled 
 
 sleeper. The wa\es 
 rose and tell in 
 rythmic motion 
 against the per- 
 pendicnlar rocks, 
 their crests 
 silver ^—^ 
 
 wat- >^R--— ^^;>^ 
 rellections hke steel 
 tempered bv fire, 
 the secret of fixing 
 of light upon the 
 was tuned to the 
 
 Qiiercus 
 Ilex. 
 
 ed with foam. 
 
 er showed metallic 
 which has been 
 Bocklin alone had 
 1 canvas these varying tones 
 surface of the sea, for his mind 
 deepest poetry of Nature. His 
 veiled woman, that rapt form who is accompanying the 
 music of the "Surging Sea" with chords on her harp, 
 would be appropriate on one of the ledges of these 
 rugged rocks. 
 
 When a storm rages here, 
 
 '"the Ocean's purple waves 
 Climbing the land, howl to the lashing winds". 
 The vertical cliff is bare for some distance, and higher 
 up we see dead trees which have been killed h\ the 
 salt spra\'. 
 
 The sea was deserted; we did not meet a single 
 boat on the wax. But we passed swarms of bluish cr\stal 
 
364 PORTOFINO. 
 
 Medusae which were swimming in long shoals towards 
 some unknown goal. What is the instinct that unites these 
 creatures and causes them to keep together? Whither 
 are thev bound? Probably to the nearest shore on which 
 they will be cast up tomorrow. 
 
 Not until we had sailed round the eastern point of 
 the promontory and reached the harbour of Portofino, 
 was the sea smooth. There is always a swell round this 
 long promontory, and storms rage here with unwonted 
 fury. Hence from ancient times the Portus Del- 
 phini has been regarded by the anxious sailor as a 
 welcome refuge. Roman triremes, when on their way 
 to Gaul, used to touch at the following ports in the 
 Ligurian sea : — Lunae, Portus Veneris, Portus Delphini, 
 Genua portus, Portus Vadum Sabatium, Portus Maurici 
 and Monaci portus. Portofino is the ancient Portus 
 Delphini; but according to G. Poggi neither of these 
 names is derived as one might suppose, from "Delphine". 
 This investigator of ancient Tigullia seeks to prove that 
 the origin of both these names is "Dao-fin", the old name 
 given to the whole ridge because it separated the peoples 
 of Genoa and Tigullia. But the Romans had already 
 changed the name of their military station on this ridge 
 to "Ad Delphinum" perhaps for the sake of euphony. 
 It was on the Via Aurelia, at the spot where Ruta now 
 lies. G. Poggi, in his book, would have the present har- 
 bour at the foot of the ridge called "Porto-fin", and not 
 Portofino. 
 
 It is peaceful and idyllic in the little harbour today, 
 and yet its waters have only too often been the scene 
 
POirrOFINO. 365 
 
 of blooch conllicts. Vov instance at tlie time of those 
 imirderoiis and fratricidal wars between Pisa, Genoa and 
 \"enice, when Guelts and GhibelHnes contended for this 
 harbour which was of such strategic importance. On 
 Februar\- 1st, l.->12, tlie thirt^• (jenoese and Pisan (jallcys, 
 bearing the Emperor IIenr\' \ II and liis army to Tus- 
 can^•, passed through Porto-fin; and G. Poggi supposes 
 tliat Dante Aligliieri must have been on board one of 
 them. Conradin, King of Sicily, Odoardo, Duke of 
 Parma, and Richard, King of England, also stopped 
 here. From 1800 to 1815 French, English, Spanish and 
 .Vustrians fought for the possession of this harbour, and 
 Napoleon, when at last he felt sure of his prize, caused 
 Portotino to be called after himself in a decree dated 
 Januar\' 2nd, 1813. 
 
 From the Madonna del Capo, whose statue stands 
 on the extreme point of the promontory, we can see far 
 along the coast eastward to the distant island of Pal- 
 maria. Santa Margherita, Rapallo, Zoagli, Chiavari and 
 Sestri Levante succeed one another on this beautful gulf. 
 We are onh- an hour's easy walk from Santa Margherita, 
 and we can overlook the road to it which winds along 
 the hill shaded b}' old Evergreen Oaks and Pines. Half 
 wa\' to Santa Margherita, on a wooded slope, lies the 
 ancient monaster^• of Cervara whose jealous\- had once 
 been so disastrous to the Abbe\' of San Fruttuoso. The 
 young Genoese priest, Lanfranco, had founded this monas- 
 tery in 1361. It enjoyed the patronage of his con- 
 temporary, Guido Settimo of Genoa — a friend of 
 Petrarch's — who spent the last ^ ears of his life here 
 
366 SESTRI LEVA NTE. 
 
 and was buried here. In its prosperous days Cervara 
 could boast of many a distinguished guest. Saint Cath- 
 arine of Siena visited this monastery and shortly after- 
 wards Pope Gregory XI, who at the request of the Saint 
 had resolved to return to Rome from Avignon. Then 
 came Cardinal Farnesi, who was later Pope Paul III; 
 then Don Juan of Austria, the victor of Lepanto. But in 
 the meantime an unwilling guest stayed here. This was 
 King Francis I of France who, after losing the battle 
 of Pa via. had to spend a night here (February 25th, 
 1525) on his way to Spain. A quadrangular tower is 
 the onlv part of this building which can lay claim to 
 any great antiquity-. This was erected by the Genoese 
 as a defence against Pirates. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 A few days later I arrived in Sestri Levante. At 
 first I could not resist a certain feeling of disappointment. 
 The whole of the scenery round the railway station was 
 devoid of foliage and the road to the town led through 
 an avenue of leafless Plane trees. Near the Grand Hotel 
 Jensch, it is true, there was a garden planted with southern 
 evergreens, but the sea shore by the modest little town 
 appeared to us somewhat bare. Until quite recently 
 Sestri Levante has only been frequented in the hot season 
 by Italian visitors for the bathing, but during the last 
 ten years it has begun to rank as a winter resort and 
 has not yet had time to array itself in those borrowed 
 plumes in which the gardens of Nervi and the coast 
 towns of the Ponente make such a show. But there 
 
SESTRl Li:\'ANTE. 
 
 367 
 
 is much natural beaut\- here f^^g* ^' ''^ * 
 
 which soon captiv- 
 ates the visitor. It 
 is less protected 
 from the Tra- 
 niontana than 
 Nervi. and a 
 fresh invigorating 
 breeze blows here, 
 which is good for 
 nervous in\alids and the 
 weak. — Not till the end of March 
 does the Gromolo Valley show signs of 
 verdure, but close at hand are extensive ever- 
 woods and Macchia. The place is steadily 
 asing in favour. The beautiful woods of Maritime 
 refresh us with their shade and we are pleased b\- their 
 healthy appearance. They are not disligured 
 by the ravages of caterpillars, as is unfortun- 
 ateh' often the case on the Riviera di Ponente. 
 In the underwood the Tree Heath predom- 
 inates, growing to a remarkable height 
 and here and there forming stateh" 
 groves. It blooms in the very 
 earh- spring and at that time forms 
 the principal adornment of 
 the woods. Here, too, there 
 arc woods composed cntireh" 
 ot jn ramidal Cx'presses on several 
 of the mountain slopes. These have 
 
 green 
 incre- 
 Pines 
 
358 THE CYPRESS. 
 
 a very sombre effect. Cvpress wood was much valued in 
 ancient times and a thick trunk represented a small capital. 
 According to Pliny this is the origin of the custom of 
 planting a Cypress when a daughter was born, to ensure her 
 a dowr^'. There was hardh' auA' timber better suited for 
 ship building, and this wood, like that of the North African 
 Callitris, was used to make boxes to protect clothing 
 from moth. Sarcophagi for the rich, and idols were carved 
 out of it. In the times of the Caesars the Cvpress pro- 
 vided the wood for funeral p\res and, as it was 
 thought to be indestructible, it was regarded amongst 
 Christians as the "Tree of Life", the symbol of immor- 
 tality. For the same reason it adorns the burial places 
 of the Mohammedans and in our latitudes, where it cannot 
 stand the severe climate, the Cypress has been replaced 
 by the somewhat similar North American Thuja occi- 
 dentalism which has also been called Arbor \^itae the 
 "Tree of Life". In the second half of the "Quattrocento" 
 it was a common custom in Italian gardens to remove 
 the branches at certain intervals so as to form terraces 
 round the main stem. In his interesting work "Die Natur 
 in der Kunst", Felix Rosen has referred to the fact that 
 Cypress trees are frequenth' thus represented in old 
 Italian pictures. 
 
 vSestri Levante possesses a priceless pearl in its cas- 
 ket, a jewel which every place on the Riviera might 
 covet ■ — the MUa Piuma. It adorns the end of the 
 promontor\- that juts out into the sea like an island, and 
 on which the oldest parts of the town rise, culminating 
 in a cemetery at the summit. 
 
VILLA PIUMA. 369 
 
 I spend the morniuLi;' reoularK- in the park of the 
 \'illa Piunia. I lerr Jenscli liaviner lent nie tlie ke^• of the 
 upper entrance. In the earh- iiiornuio- I walk up through 
 the old town and open tlie small gate in the old wall 
 in a sequestered spot below the cemeter\'. And each 
 time I enter the park by this little gate I am enchanted 
 with the view. The splencHd scene is disclosed as if b^- 
 magic. In front of me steep precipices fall sheer down 
 to the sea and dip into the crested waves. 'The edge 
 of the promontorv is shaded hv a broad belt of Pine trees, 
 which seem as though arranged hv a master hand, so 
 effectiveh' do they adorn it. Agaves of a vivid green 
 cling fast to the neighbouring slope. The wall close to 
 the entrance is quite hidden under the rich growth of 
 large-leaved Iv\- and Smilax. It rises up to an old ruined 
 castle near which the burial place lies. Out of the dark 
 green foliage, dazzling white statues and crosses peep 
 forth. In the foreground Arbutus (Fig. p. 37) Oleasters, 
 Pines and Evergreen Oaks crowd upon each other, and 
 steeped in light the trackless sea sparkles and shines in 
 the background. In order to paint this picture the artist 
 would have to dip his brush alternateh' in the light ot 
 the sun and the blue of the sea. 
 
 From the entrance broad steps lead down lirst through 
 Erica bushes: then the view opens out o\er the eastern 
 ba\' and the Monte Castello. where wooded heights end 
 in the steep Cap on which stands the "•Telcgrapho". 
 In the north-west the blue Apennines rise range be\ond 
 range. A light breeze blows from the open sea, stealing 
 the perfume of the Erica on its waw We rest here a 
 
370 VILLA PIUMA. 
 
 long time and let our gaze wander over land and sea. 
 It is so quiet, so peaceful here. A fishing boat down 
 near the foot of the cliff is scarceh' rocked by the waves, 
 and in it the fisherman lies sleeping. A shoal of Dol- 
 phins sport in the sun-flecked water. Do thev too know 
 that spring is near? 
 
 The path leads along the steep slope towards the 
 point of the promontor^^ We are surrounded b\' the 
 fragrant Helichrysum (Fig. p. 227) and the spic\' scented 
 "Nasca" (Fig. p. 239). With these are the shiny dark- 
 green leaves of another plant, quite as strongly perfumed, 
 the Psoralea hituuunosa (Fig. p. ?)^S), also t^'pical of the 
 flora here. Its peculiar aroma is like bitumen, as its 
 name, Pitch Clover, indicates. It opens its small, clover- 
 like flower-heads in June : the leaves, which closely re- 
 semble those of our clovers, were fbrmerh' sold together 
 with all other parts of the plant as "Folia trifolii bitumi- 
 nosi". and much used in medicine. 
 
 We soon reach a saddle-shaped depression in the 
 ridge, from which, over the grev foliage of the Olives 
 and between Cypresses and flowering Peach trees, we 
 could see a part of Sestri Levante against the back- 
 ground of the Apennines. Numerous paths converge 
 here and lead in all directions over the promontory, 
 intersecting here and there. We are now in a splendid 
 natural Park, among representatives of the Mediterranean 
 flora and with scarcely a single foreign plant. Old Oak 
 trees and Pines rise above the Maquis. Here winter is 
 forgotten, for not a single bare tree top offends the eye. 
 The pure refreshing breeze from the sea sweeps along 
 
VILLA PIUMA. 
 
 371 
 
 the slope and inflates the lungs. Al 
 every turn ot the road th e out- 
 look changes. To which of the ^- 
 nianv scenes sliall the prefer- a 
 
 ence be given ? As soon as we 
 leave one spot we return to it for 
 surelv it was the most beautiful I li 
 the end I decided in favour of a 
 small projection at the south- 
 western side of the mountain, where 
 the whole west coast as far as Portofino 
 is seen in a frame of luxuriant 
 verdure. Down below through the 
 trees the azure blue sea glitters in the 
 full sunshine, streaked with gold like 
 Lapis Lazuli; and be\ond, mistv and silverv 
 white, the snow masses of the Al] 
 seem to hover in the clouds. Here 
 I used often to sit, hither I returned, 
 and from this spot I found it most 
 difficult to tear mvself awa\' on vsw 
 departure. 
 
 It is fortunate for those who come 
 in search of health, and to enjoy 
 nature, that the X'illa Piuma is in th 
 possession of an Italian nobleman 
 whose heart is in his countr\- and wh 
 is proud of its beaut\" and who delights 
 to share it with others. The Marchese 
 Piuma is a scholar and Professor of 
 
 jy^i 
 
 ^i 
 
 ^ 
 
 r^^ 
 
 Rosmarinus officinalis. 
 
372 VILLA PIUMA. 
 
 Mathematics at the University of Genoa, and lectures on 
 the calcukis. He spends the vacations only in his Villa 
 at Sestri Levante, or at another estate in the Polcevera 
 
 valley. 
 
 The feeling of gratitude, that every visitor to the 
 V^illa Piuma entertains for its owner, is increased by the 
 memorv of contrarv experience in other places on the 
 Riviera. And even at Portofino, near at hand, the traveller 
 finds the gates closed and is confronted by notices in several 
 languages forbidding his entrance. Of what avail is it 
 that the estate is thrown open on certain daA's and at 
 fixed hours. One mav not be able to come again. The 
 community should see to it that at least a few of the 
 spots which command views should remain open to all. 
 But everything about Portofino has been sold to foreign 
 owners. It is only due to the modest statue of the 
 Madonna del Capo, which stands on the east end of 
 the promontorv, that everv free outlook Irom this spot 
 is not enclosed. A narrow foot-path has had to be left 
 leading to the Madonna, that the devotee may bring his 
 offering ot flowers. The owner of the plots of land 
 bordering this path has therefore been compelled to build 
 bridges over it and, with rare taste, he has painted these, 
 as well as all his buildings, with broad black and vellow 
 stripes! 
 
 In the neisfhbourhood of Sestri Levante the visitor 
 is better off. He can enjoy full and uninterrupted views 
 from all the roads that follow the coast at some distance 
 above the sea. I used generally to walk in the afternoon 
 either eastwards to the "Telegrapho", or in the opposite 
 
SANTA ANNA. 373 
 
 direction o\or to w^anta Anna. ^'ou cannot miss the 
 \va\- to tlie Teleiij-rapho. Passin(r lhrou<r]i an arched 
 door\va\- in the niain street of Sestri, and reaching the 
 '•\'ico deir Botone", vou turn sharp to the left and 
 follow the red-paved road that leads up between garden 
 walls. You will onh" once be undecided, at a spot where 
 tlie road appears to stop suddcnh' in front of a group 
 of rocks. But it goes past these rocks into a thick 
 Pine-wood. Here the Maritime Pine grows luxuriantly 
 and the bushes of the Maejuis forma thick undergrowth; 
 even a few Cork Oaks have strayed here. New aspects 
 ot the sea and coast appear at every opening. The 
 isthmus uniting Mlla Piuma with the mainland is 
 so narrow as to give it the appearance of a green island. 
 
 In order to reach the beautiful spot where stand 
 the ruins of Santa Anna, which can be seen from a 
 great distance, you have to follow the rail in a westerly- 
 direction and then turn into the valle\' that branches off 
 inland. The path goes through a quarr^• by the side 
 of a brook, and when in the wood it begins to ascend. 
 It soon leaves the stream, onh' to turn back to it again, 
 and at last reaches the plateau on which the ruins stand. 
 Thence it is pleasant to walk on almost level ground 
 to the spot where Cavi can be seen in the hollow of 
 the valley. At the same time the eve can feast on the 
 magnificent view of the deeph" indented coast line which 
 encloses the Gulf of Rapallo. 
 
 The views from the mountain road betw^een Rapallo 
 and Chiavari are ver\- similar. This road is considered 
 to be one of the finest in Ital\-, and righth" so as all 
 
374 RAPALLO TO CHIAVARI. 
 
 agree who have followed its windings on a clear, sunny 
 day. It leads almost uninterruptedly through Olive 
 groves, and consequenth' is equally beautiful at 
 all times of the year. Time flew so rapidly on the walk 
 that I hardh' seemed to have been two and a half hours 
 on the way from Rapallo to Chiavari. I met only a 
 single motor car, so that my enjo\'ment of the natural 
 surroundings was not marred hv either dust or the smell 
 of benzine. Those who wish to avoid fatigue should not 
 walk further than from Zoagli to Rapallo. Zoagli is half 
 wav , and the mountain road running above the village 
 can be reached bv a short ascent from the railway 
 station down bv the sea. At the highest point of this 
 mountain road a halt should be made, for indeed the 
 view from here can be surpassed by few in the 
 whole of Itah'. It is so diversified, so full of light and 
 colour, that it fills the heart, as if bv magic, with sunshine 
 that even many dark da^'s in succession cannot quite 
 obliterate. 
 
 The mountain road, which now connects Chiavari 
 with Rapallo, coincides onh- here and there with the 
 Via Aurelia. The latter g-enerallv ran at a hififher ele- 
 vation so that, if its tracks are followed, the views are 
 still more extended. The old road is still used from 
 Chiavari to San Pietro de Rovereto, where it becomes 
 only a mule track and drops down to Zoagli between 
 Olive groves. On the other side of Zoagli it appears 
 again above the present highway and continues as far 
 as San Pantaleone. Here, on looking down, the prett^' 
 little town is seen with its bright houses standing out 
 
RAPALLC) TO CHIAVARI. 
 
 375 
 
 tVoni the dark loliai^e, like pearls in a green velvet 
 casket. As a matter of fact Zoagli owes her modest 
 prosperity to real velvet; for from remote times the 
 manufacture of "\^eluti di Genova" has flourished here, 
 and the velvet is still held in high esteem. From San 
 I'antaleone the road continues to ascend to San Ambrosio 
 where the highest point (()4() feet) of the old Roman 
 road is reached. There the Counts of Lavagna built 
 a castle in order to command the district. The Chronic- 
 
 lers first 
 1070. The 
 somewhat 
 along the 
 antiquit^' of 
 Between 
 debouches 
 deal of 
 coast where 
 so emptv 
 places for 
 
 ^ nationa 
 
 mention this building in the year 
 Roman road then descends 
 abruptly to Rapallo, which lies 
 Ma Aurelia, and can boast an 
 at least nineteen hundred ^^ears. 
 Chiavari and Lavagna the Entella 
 nto the sea. It carries down a good 
 Iter, which is surprising on this 
 the torrent beds are generally 
 that the\' are used as dr^■ing 
 washing. Dante praises the 
 Entella in the nineteenth Canto 
 of the Purgatorio: "Infra Sestri 
 e Chiavari s'adima una liumana 
 ^ 'A, bella." — B^- going up 
 ' ^_^ the river we reach San 
 
 " '^"^ . Salvatore in about 
 ^ three quarters of an 
 hour. The Basilica there, 
 which was erected as a 
 monument, is worth a visit. But 
 
 - v_ 
 Salvia horminoides. 
 
376 THE FIESCHI. 
 
 what really induced me to undertake this excursion 
 was interest in the founders of the church, whose 
 names Schiller has made familiar to us from our youth 
 up by his tragedy of the "Fieschi". They called them- 
 selves Counts of Lavagna. In the ^'ear 1244 Sinebaldo 
 Fiescho, who as Pope bore the name of Innocent I\^, 
 laid the foundation of the Basilica. The fresco over the 
 entrance represents him kneeling at the mount of Calvar\'. 
 The large Rose window in the otherwise extremely plain 
 facade is a highly artistic piece of work and well pre- 
 served. It is otherwise with the neighbouring Castle of the 
 Fieschi. The alternate bands of light and dark stone, and 
 the arches of its windows, show that the building was of 
 the same date as the Basilica; but the architectural effect 
 is destroyed, for the windows are walled up and the interior 
 has been adapted to the needs of poor country people. 
 
 The nephew of Innocent IV, Ottobuoni Fiesco, whom 
 the former raised to the rank of Cardinal-deacon under 
 the title of St. Hadrian and who afterwards became Pope 
 Hadrian V, is represented in Dante's Purgatorio as speaking. 
 He makes him praise, in the words quoted above, the 
 river of his native district, — the Lavagna, now called 
 Entella. "Between Chiavari and Sestri a fair river rushes 
 down, from whose name my family derives its honour- 
 able title". As to the avarice with which Dante charges 
 Ottobuoni, the ro^'al translator and commentator of the 
 "Divina Commedia", Philalethes, could not lind any 
 historical confirmation of it. 
 
 The power of the Fieschi began to decline about 
 the year 1000. They had become dependant upon Genoa 
 
SESTRI LEVANTE. 377 
 
 and removed thitlier. In (ienoa the fainilx llourished 
 anew, attained considerable importance and accjuired 
 great riches. Thev owned man\ palaces, and in the 
 Catliedral of San Lorenzo the\' possessed a special Chapel 
 and burial vault. In the thirteenth century the famih' 
 split into two branches, the Savignone and the Toriglia. 
 To the first lamih belonged Gian Luigi il (jrande, who 
 had entertained Louis XII of France in his palace "\'ia 
 Late". From this Gian Luigi was descended Sinebaldo, 
 and from his union with Maria della Rovere, niece of 
 Pope Julius II, proceeded that Gian Luigi, the third of 
 this name, who placed himself at the head of the con- 
 spiracy against the Dorias. It is well known that some 
 words of Rousseaifs, to the effect that this Fiesco was 
 one of the most remarkable characters in history, prompt- 
 ed Schiller to make this man the subject of a tragedw 
 
 If you make excursions inland from Sestri Levante 
 in the earh" spring \ou will be struck by the backward 
 appearance of the yegetation, especially in the higher 
 regions of the Apennines. For there winter is not over 
 till Ma\-. Nevertheless one ought not to miss the drive 
 to Bracco on the road leading from Sestri Levante over 
 the Apennines to Spezia, for it commands a number of 
 charming views over the sea and coast. 
 
 Here we find ourselves again on the old Roman 
 road that connected Luifi with the Genoese coast. It 
 divided on the top of the mountain at the present village 
 of Mattarana, one branch running down to the sea at 
 Moneglia through the V"al di Deiva, and the other leading 
 past Bracco to Segesta TiguUorum, the present Sestri 
 
378 ON THE ROAD TO BRx\CCO. 
 
 The successors of the Romans here at first made use of 
 the Roman roads, near which they built their castles; 
 but gradually they allowed these roads to fall into dis- 
 repair and did not make new ones. So that at the be- 
 ginning of the eleventh centur^' the means of communi- 
 cation between the different villages were so interrupted 
 that traffic along the coast was confined to the sea. 
 
 Before the finely situated Villa Bertollo is reached 
 on the road from Bracco you look down into both bays 
 which are separated bv the pineclad Monte Castello. 
 The bay of Moneglia can also be seen beyond a spur of 
 the hill, and in the far distance, when it is clear, the most 
 northern point of Corsica is visible across the blue sea. In 
 the Petronio valley to the west the groups of grey 
 houses of Casarza, Masso and Castiglione form charming 
 scenes. These places lie along the road to Borgotaro 
 which there joins the railway to Parma. To the north 
 and east tower the giant masses of the Apennines. Their 
 heights are bare, but delicately tinged with different 
 shades of pearl-grey, orange and pale blue. The strong 
 contrast of light and shade enhances the effect still 
 more, and at the same time throws them into bold relief, 
 bringing the whole into sublime harmony. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 A well known authority on Swiss Botany, H. Christ, 
 author of "Das Pflanzenleben der Schweiz", considers 
 the Riviera di Levante one of the most attractive dis- 
 tricts of Italy. The eastern part of it. between Sestri 
 Levante and Spezia, especially charms him, not only b}' 
 
EASTERN LIMIT OF THE MAQUIS 
 
 379 
 
 its beauty, but bv its primitive character. 
 He admires, above all, the rocky 
 cliffs rising abruptly from the 
 sea, with their frequent 
 contortions and their vary- 
 ing mineralogical constituents. 
 «^kf1^^ .^KK""l»li^T'^u^'^ These include almost every 
 W^ jfCj^i^mW^MlX^^M imaginable kind of rock, from 
 
 porphyry, serpentine and 
 granite rich in mica, to pure 
 quartz rock. In consequence of 
 a lower temperature and 
 increasing humidit\' a good 
 the Iberian -maritime region 
 here. Thus Querciis cocci f era (Fig. 
 Alvpuui (Fig. p. 207) and the 
 Lavatcras (Fig. p. 271) which we meet with so often on 
 the western Riviera, are not to be found. Yet Pistachia 
 Lcntisciis (Fig. p. 349) grows at Chiavari and JiKphorhiit 
 dcndroides is seen at Cinque Terre forming bushes the 
 height of a man; while well developed plants of Ci'sIks 
 nionspeliensis (Fig. p. 8'^) are to be found in certain spots. 
 But it is chiefl\- the variet\- and interest of its ferns that 
 Mr. Christ praises in this district. 
 
 The coast of the Gulf of Spezia is included in the 
 Riviera di Levante: the broad bed of the river Magra. 
 which llows into the sea be\"ond Ca]')o Corvo, being 
 regarded as its eastern liinil. In ancient times this river 
 separated Liguria from ItaK . The Maquis can be traced 
 as far as this. I>ut the shelter from the north wind has 
 
 denticiilata. -\y 
 
 many plants of 
 begin to disappear 
 p. ,359). Glohularia 
 
380 CINQUE TERRE. 
 
 decreased so considerably, and the number of deciduous 
 trees is so great, that one can hardly consider those 
 places situated to the south east of Sestri Levante as 
 o-ood winter resorts. On no account could they be re- 
 commended to those suffering from chest complaints, 
 who are in search of a milder climate in the winter and 
 like to be surrounded by evergreen shrubs and trees. 
 
 The Nature lover also should postpone his excur- 
 sions to the eastern part of the Riviera di Levante until 
 late in the spring, that he ma\- then see the beautiful 
 country in its full glory. This applies especially to the 
 Cinque Terre, that fantastic realm of rocks which is 
 well worthy of a visit. 
 
 The Cinque Terre derive their name from five 
 stony districts between Levanto and Porto Venere. These 
 are situated in the narrow indentations of the coast and 
 rise abruptly from the sea-shore towards the mountains. 
 They are only a kilometre apart, but sky-high precipices 
 tower between them, running out into the sea and form- 
 ing insurmountable barriers, so that it takes an hour 
 to get from one place to another. In making the Via 
 Aurelia, these invincible obstacles had to be avoided 
 and in order to pass this strip of coast the road was 
 carried over the heights. Modern science at last tunnelled 
 these rocky masses b^' means of explosives, and thus 
 brought into communication people whose only intercourse 
 with each other and the outside world had previously 
 been by sea. Stormy weather isolated them com- 
 pletely, for landing at these precipitous cliffs was then 
 impossible. 
 
CINQUE TERRE. 381 
 
 The r(H-k\- chasms on whicli tlicse places rise are 
 so narrow that llu- train, wlien it stops, often has both 
 ends in the tunnels. Wm are under i^round almost the 
 wliole ot the distance between Sestri Levante and Spc/ia, 
 and one cannot help admiriuij^ the marvellous skill which 
 has opened up communication with this district, if ^•ou 
 leave the train at unv of these stations, say Riomaggiore, 
 and emerge from the tunnel \"ou will see before you a 
 town, o-re\- with age. built of imhewn stone, rising steepU" 
 up the mountain side and ending in walled terraces on 
 which the vines grow. Sometimes it looks as if these 
 could onh' be reached at the risk of life, as of ^•ore 
 those grapes in the Campagna which ripened on high 
 trees. The wine pressed from the grapes was celebrated 
 of old. It is sweet and heavy, darker and more lier\' 
 than Orvieto, though very like it in taste and colour. 
 It is put into Hasks, and as it will keep only a limited 
 time, must be consumed without any great dela^^ The 
 grapes literalh* roast in the sun on the steep cliffs and 
 are consequenth- yer\' sweet. In autumn the\' are brought 
 down to the villages and spread out on the flat stone 
 roofs of the houses, where the\' almost become raisins 
 before the\- are pressed. 
 
 Tf }ou desire to get the best impression of this district 
 it is well to postpone your visit until the autumn when 
 the vintage has commenced and the women , clad in 
 picturesque costumes, carr\' vessels tilled with grapes on 
 their heads down tlie steep slopes of the hill. In the 
 early spring the vines still lack their foliage, and the 
 scene is not pleasing to the eye. The povert\' of the 
 
382 SAN REMO. 
 
 place, too. is then more apparent as it is not sufficientlv 
 concealed b^• the wild splendour of surrounding nature. 
 The inliabitants have, as ^'et, but little experience of 
 strangers; they regard them with mistrust and do not 
 even beg of them. 
 
 From Riomaggiore, the last town of the Cinque 
 Terre, vou cross the niountain to Spezia. The outlook 
 over the deeph' indented gulf, suddenh' disclosed to view, 
 is glorious. The jagged peaks of the precipitous Apuanian 
 Alps are white with dazzling snow : and the coast of 
 the gulf is still bare. We must return hither at a later 
 season of the year. 
 
 CHAPTER VUL 
 
 On the evening of the next da^' I arrived at San 
 Remo. The starlit skv enticed me into the open air 
 at a late hour. Close bv the gate of the Hotel Ro\'al I 
 found myself once more under the stately Date Palms 
 of the garden, and the impression was renewed which 
 these majestic forms of vegetation alwa^'s leave upon my 
 mind. I had missed these trees of late, vet scarcely 
 knew how much I missed them. Here in the garden 
 they rose like slender pillars against the skv line, illumi- 
 nated on one side bv the bright lights from the windows 
 of the hotel. High over my head their fronds formed 
 intersecting arches, like those in the roof of a Gothic cath- 
 edral. Above them stretched away the spacious firmament 
 with its innumerable stars into the depths of which the 
 eye could penetrate so deeply, even through the darkness 
 
SAN REMO. 
 
 383 
 
 Strap ias 
 Lingua. 
 
 view. I had 
 Una. wliere 
 
 of the niglit, that one 
 
 seemed to realise 
 
 distinctly the 
 
 fathomless 
 
 perspective of 
 
 those distant orbs. 
 
 Next morning I revelled in 
 
 a profusion of flowers and felt 
 
 to what an extent the bright 
 
 colouring of this sunny coast 
 
 is due to them. I roamed at 
 
 random up and down between 
 
 the gardens of the villas. I was 
 
 surrounded everywhere by Roses 
 
 and Acacias in full bloom, by 
 
 Pelargoniums and Heliotrope; 
 
 the air was laden with the scent 
 
 of Orange blossom andFreezias, 
 
 of Walltiowers and Stocks. 
 
 Here and there a splendid 
 
 Wigandia, decked \\ith violet 
 
 blossoms, bent over the wall. 
 
 New plants continually attracted 
 
 my attention. I walked past the 
 
 different gardens only once 
 
 remaining rooted to the spot 
 
 when a scene of tropical 
 
 ieaut\' was suddenh' disclosed to 
 
 ached the garden of the \'illa Eve- 
 
 er the sloping walls of the terraces 
 
384 VIA BERIGO. 
 
 such a variety of luxuriant shrubs overhung the path that it 
 seemed as though a magic cornucopiae had scattered its 
 contents over the hillside. Opuntias, Aloes, Agaves and 
 other succulent plants grew in wild luxuriance and afforded 
 a striking proof of nature's exuberant fertilitv — a rich 
 v^arietvof subjects for the artist, more gorgeous than anvthing 
 which the imagination could invent. Over this tropical scene 
 an Olive tree pensivelv bows its branches : it was so inter- 
 woven b^' climbing roses as to look like a thick bower. 
 Close by a dark Cypress raised its spire, and this too 
 was crowned with garlands of roses. Everywhere yellow 
 and white Banksias hang trailing from the walls. There 
 are flaming Pelargoniums and tall Oleanders lining the 
 border of the path. And above our heads Palms trees, 
 draped with Ivy, raise heavenwards their curving fronds. 
 
 I now reached the V^ia Berigo and followed it in 
 a westerly direction to the spot where it turns to the 
 mountains. Here the fertile valleys of della Foce and 
 San Bernardo come into view. Higher up the hill slopes 
 were rich in olive trees and above these, picturesqueh' 
 situated on the ridge of Cap Nero, was the ancient gre\' 
 village of Coldirodi, flanked to the north b^' huge moun- 
 tain masses. 
 
 I turned, and again followed the windings of the \ ia 
 Berigo between Villas and luxuriant gardens. Then I struck 
 into the Via Borofo which encircles the Val San Romolo in 
 a wide loop. Down in the Romolo Valle^• all the fruit 
 trees were in full bloom, white, pink and pearl coloured. 
 The Orange and Lemon trees displa\'ed their golden 
 fruit, while the Olive trees shone with black berries. The 
 
VIA BORGO. 385 
 
 Almoiul trees were resjilendent in the lii»-ht (rreen of 
 their \(iun<»- foliao-e and tlie ligs were airead\- sproutin£r. 
 The whok' sliowed such luxuriance as one niii»']it imagine 
 was in the (iarden of Eden. On the otlier side of the 
 valle\'. crowning the hill, stood tlie old town of San 
 Remo darkh' outlined — an impressive picttire, which 
 Mctor Ilehn sa\ s reminds him of Taormina. The road 
 crosses the valle\' hv a bridge. I now turned to the east 
 and followed the ]-)ath that led to the sea. IW the road- 
 side was a Peach tree so covered with blossom that its 
 boughs were almost entireh' hidden. In the strong sun- 
 light it stood out boldlv from the dark blue background of 
 the water. To the eye susceptible to colour harmonies 
 the pearh' pink of these blossoms on an azure ground 
 would be a dreani of delight. 
 
 The man\-domed church of the Madonna della 
 Costa, surrounded b\' slender Cypresses, overtops the 
 old town of San Remo. I quitted the Via Rorgo in 
 order to walk up to the Madonna. She is enthroned in 
 the midst of the wide semicircle of high mountains that 
 form a sheltering wall round San Remo. The highest 
 point of the range is Monte Bignone, which is 4,280 feet 
 above sea-level. From its summit it falls in gentle undu- 
 lating slopes eastwards and westwards till it reaches the 
 coast, without a single gap through which the north wind 
 could reach the vallexs to the south. Xo white peak 
 towers above this barrier to send down an ic\- draught. 
 You must climb to the edge of this huge amphitheatre 
 if you would gaze on the snowy region that lies be-sond. 
 From the Madonna della Costa vou can look onh- due 
 
386 OLD SAN REMO. 
 
 south, away into the distance where sea and sky merge 
 in a Hght bhie mist. 
 
 The slope below the church is laid out with modern 
 gardens, but we will not tarry here, for the picturesque 
 old town of San Remo on the flank of the hill attracts 
 us. Its blackened houses in the narro\\' streets are bound 
 together by strong arches and vaults, thus forming a 
 firmly knit mass capable of resisting even violent earth- 
 quakes. Loggias, terraces and sharp angles in the streets 
 break the monotony of the lines. We notice the 
 time-worn figures of the Madonna as we pass; and 
 we meet women, in the ancient costume of the countr\', 
 slowly mounting the steep hill carrying water on their 
 heads in copper vessels. At one street corner I lin- 
 gered. Through the deep shadow of a dark vaulted 
 passage I saw a house lighted up b^' dazzling sun- 
 shine : at the threshold sat a w^oman attired in blue 
 and red, with a child, dressed in white, in her arms. 
 A ray of sunlight gilded the curh' locks of the child. 
 The arched passage formed a setting to this picture. 
 It was a living model of one of those Madonna 
 pictures that the great Italian Masters of the Renas- 
 cence so skilfully transferred to canvas. There was 
 the same grace in the attitude and the draper\' , the 
 same artistic effect of light and shade and a similar 
 harmony in the surrounding's. This scene attracted me 
 and I stood so long that the curiosity of the passers 
 by was aroused and I had to leave the spot. But my 
 attention was soon again arrested, this time by the high 
 belfry tower of San Sirio, flooded with golden light, 
 
^ 
 
 Siiiilti.x nsjitio. 
 
 which I suddenly caught 
 sight of at the end 
 of a long, dark 
 street. Again a Palm 
 tree, bending over the 
 wall, made me pause. 
 In the scanty shadow 
 that its fronds cast on 
 the road a number of gaih' 
 dressed children were 
 pla\"ing. while a donke^" 
 stretched its head out of 
 the stable window and 
 looked at them. Dark-eyed 
 maidens, often of striking beaut^', 
 passed us, but all, alas, clad in 
 modern dress. On many of the 
 houses thick vines were trained 
 to the highest storey forming shady 
 bowers. Roses decked with bright festoons old 
 weathered walls, giving them a semblance 
 of restored youth. These were but moment- 
 ary impressions, but gladly would I, had it 
 been possible, have stamped them, with all 
 their light and colour, indelibly on my memory. 
 
CAPO VERDE. 
 
 The eastern part of San Remo has developed of 
 
 late with marvellous rapidity. New hotels and villas 
 
 are to be seen ever^' where. Garden follows garden 
 
 in long succession. The east ba\' of San Remo is indeed 
 
 splendidly sheltered from the winds. The new Promenade, 
 
 "Passeggiata Imperatore Frederico", leads along the shore 
 
 and has the advantage of the western Promenade "Corso 
 
 deir Imperatrice" in that the railway does not pass 
 
 between it and the sea. Yet it is devoid of trees, 
 
 whereas the other is better shaded and more popular. 
 
 I started for Punta di Capo \^erde, crossing the eastern 
 
 part of the town. The outlook from the road on the 
 
 Cap is monotonous, and I repeatedly looked back 
 
 at San Remo basking in the morning sun. It was 
 
 a very hot day, although we were still in the month 
 
 of March. A pleasant breeze sprang up cool and fresh 
 
 from the sea. I struck into the paved path that leads 
 
 up to the Madonna della Guardia and suddenly a 
 
 magnificent prospect appeared before me, well worthy- 
 
 of the praise that has been bestowed upon it. To the 
 
 east, at no great distance, the view was closed hv the 
 
 ridge ot San Lorenzo. Yet westwards the eye could 
 
 range along the coast far away into the blue distance, 
 
 where the lighthouse of Antibes rises like a shadowy 
 
 phantom from the sea. The view inland was still more 
 
 attractive. There towered a might^' host of mountains. 
 
 Deep valleys descended steeply from their heights to 
 
 the shore, clothed in the silvery grey of the Olives and 
 
 filled with the bright beaut}' of llowering fruit trees. 
 
 Lofty Cypresses and noble Evergreen Oaks, growing 
 
BUSSANO. 389 
 
 b\' tlu- ihurch. tonn a tranir to this uni(.|iie picture. 
 Tiion tlie attention is attracted h\ the ancient village of 
 Bussano. which, as seen from a short distance , looks 
 like a pile of rocks risini^ sk^•^vard on the summit of a 
 precipitous cliff. The ])lace was completeh' destroyed 
 b\ the earthquake of INNT and is now a most 
 romantic looking ruin. But among its fallen houses 
 a tall and slender church tower rises. Has this been 
 newh' erected, or did it alone survive the destruction? 
 Tlie answer to this question was supplied b\' a man 
 who had approached me in order to beg. The tower 
 did realh' remain standing. "C"un miracolo"" he added. 
 The old village of Bussano was deserted hv almost all 
 its inhabitants, onh' the ver\' poorest remaining because 
 the\- were quite unable to find an^• other lodging. Those 
 who were better off built a new town in the valle^', not 
 far from the shore. In comparison with the old Bussano 
 this place has a ver\- prosaic appearance. Looking down 
 on it from this high ground, one might imagine that 
 children had emptied out a box of coloured to^' houses 
 and set them up all neath' and tidih- in a row. Perhaps 
 the picturesque situation of the earlier village was due 
 rather to necessit^' than to the love of beaut^■. The 
 dread of pirates ma\" have driven them to take refuge 
 on these inaccessible heights and to crowd their houses 
 together so as to form a sort of fortress. Castellaro was 
 thus constructed, that village, greA' with age, which 
 stands some little distance to tlie east above the valley 
 of Taggia. Below it lies the village of Taggia, famous 
 for its Olives and rich in fertile gardens which lie along 
 
 10 
 
390 CERIANA. — INTARSIATORE. 
 
 the river. This little place is much visited b}' strangers. 
 Enthroned in the mountains to the north-west is Ceriana, 
 very old and exceedingh' picturesque. At the time of 
 the Saracen peril it found security in its elevated situation 
 on the spur of Monte Bignone. To the right of Ceriana, 
 be\'ond the promontor^•, a few peaks are seen sprinkled 
 with snow. The valle-s' of Taggia, too, is closed in to 
 the north by white-capped mountains, but the snowy 
 range of the Maritime Alps is not visible from here, 
 although the Madonna della Guardia projects far out 
 into the open sea. 
 
 On returning to the town I had an opportunity of 
 watching an "Intarsiatore'' at work. The "Intarsia" 
 industry still survives at San Remo, and I was interested 
 to learn what kinds of wood have been employed for 
 long ages in this mosaic work. The ground-work of the 
 picture that I saw consisted of veined ^'ellowish-brown 
 Olive wood, IIolU- supplied white, black was pre- 
 pared from the Fig tree, Zizyphiis znilgaris furnished 
 bright red, the Carob dark red shades, the Arbutus flesh 
 colour. Lemon and Orange wood bright yellow, the 
 Evergreen Oak light brown, and, finally, the Hazel grey. 
 
 I was struck by the numbers of lemons which, in 
 spite of the advanced season, still remained on the trees 
 round San Remo. In answer to my enquiries, the people 
 complained bitterh- of the decline of the lemon trade 
 and the steady falling off in prices. This was due firstly 
 to the competition of the Balearics, and now the export 
 to America is ceasing as this country is beginning to 
 supply its own lemons. 
 
OSPEDALETTI. 
 
 391 
 
 The next da\' I visited Ospedaletti. If you approach 
 this place from the east aou will not see it till you are 
 close upon it. for it lies in the trough of a valley and 
 is concealed b\- a projection of the mountain to the east. 
 
 ver\' ancient origin, 
 
 This colony is said to be of 
 and its foundation is 
 ascribed to lepers, 
 who were left here 
 b\' a ship of the 
 Knights of Rhodes. 
 Hence the name. Until two de- 
 cades ago Ospedaletti ^ was 
 only a simple fishing 
 Speculators, how- 
 ever, took posses- 
 sion of it with 
 the object of 
 converting it into 
 Monte Carlo. Hotels 
 were built and a 
 "Casino", which was 
 to entice "birds of 
 passage" laden with 
 gold, into this new 
 ••Roccolo". But 
 the Italian govern- 
 ment refused ' tne ucense ^ ^, 
 so the fine buildings erected b^- the Credit 
 Foncier Lvonnais are now used as Sanatoria. The 
 place is better sheltered from winds than San Remo, 
 
392 OSPEDALETTI. 
 
 and therefore better adapted to those suffering from 
 chest complaints. At the same time its views are limited 
 owing to its secluded position. Looking landwards only 
 the slopes of the valley, in which the town lies, can be 
 seen, and the views along the coast are closed to the 
 east by Capo Nero and to the west by Cap D'Ampeglio. 
 In this recently created health resort everything looks so 
 new that one might almost imagine them to be theatre 
 decorations. And yet, thanks to the extreme mildness 
 of the climate and the money spent in planting large 
 shrubs, the parks are already flourishing and the Palm 
 trees of considerable height. Pretty paths lead to the 
 top of the slope and continue through luxuriant Maquis. 
 Many a fair scene is disclosed within the narrow limit. 
 Down by the shore, close to Cap d'Ampeglio lies the 
 beautiful garden laid out b\' Ludwig Winter near the 
 Scheffel Palms. This garden has developed marvellously 
 in the course of ten years, under careful management. 
 It has become, what it was intended to be, an eminently 
 artistic creation. 
 
 I struck into the path to Capo Nero up to Coldirodi. 
 An unassuming little church stands on the bare and lonel}' 
 ridge, not very far from the entrance to the village. I 
 directed my steps first to it. In Italy churches and 
 monasteries are always built on spots with lovely views. 
 Perhaps in the choice of a site an unconscious touch of 
 Nature worship may have been mixed with the religious 
 sentiment. This little church too is most beautifulh' situated 
 and commands a view over all the green valleys and 
 the many villages facing the sea between Capo Verde and 
 
COLDIKODI. 393 
 
 Cap d'Ampeglio. The semicircle of high hills here is un- 
 interrupted. I'hese with their chief, Monte Bignone, and 
 his vassals. Monte Caggio and Plan Carparo. def\- the 
 cold north winds. On the other side of Old liordighera 
 rise the familiar peaks above tiie coast: there the green 
 peninsulas project far into the sea, forming deep bays, 
 and in the mist^' distance the eve seems to discern the 
 jagged outline of the Esterel. The cjuaint little town of 
 Coldirodi, with its crooked streets, reminds us strongly 
 of San Remo and of Taggia and Ceriana. Blackened 
 houses built of stone, buttresses and arches, unexpected 
 gaps, through which one looks down into the valle\s or 
 sees the top of a mountain, and here and there ruins covered 
 with a luxuriant growth of vegetation. For the last 
 earthquake destroyed a portion of Coldirodi. But this 
 scene of desolation is decked with llowers. the bright 
 arch of the sk^• is above it, and it is gilded b\- the 
 splendour of tlie southern sun. Through Olive groves 
 we descend hv a stouA- path into the valle\' of San Ber- 
 nardo, with the picture of San Remo always before us. 
 The old Olive trees are so weirdh' beautiful that they 
 rivet our attention, and \"et it is necessar^' to look down- 
 wards, for walking on the smooth round stones is at 
 times a veritable g\'mnastic exercise. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 On the morning of Palm ^^unda^' I went to the 
 llower market at Xice to re\el in the wealth of colour 
 there. Ever\- spring these frail things lie piled up in 
 great c|uantities. doomed to an earh' death, and not even 
 
 16* 
 
394 FLOWER MARKET AT NICE. 
 
 certain of a purchaser to take compassion on them. The 
 nearer mid-day approaches the cheaper are the^' offered 
 for sale. Those that are unsold iind their way to the 
 rubbish heap. Roses of various colours filled the bas- 
 kets; bright yellow and soft white Marguerites were 
 heaped upon the tables. Near by were large Iris 
 Sussiaiia mottled with grey and deep violet, which the 
 gardeners have called "Lady in mourning". 
 
 Next, in striking contrast, were the snow-white 
 Ethiopian Zantedeschias (Z. act/iiopica), which we know 
 as Calla aethiopica, and often grow in our rooms at home. 
 Yellowish-brown Wallflowers, double Stocks of all shades, 
 large Violets, Freesias and the allied Hyacinths, Nar- 
 cissi, Tazettas and Jonquils, filled the air with their frag- 
 rance, while among them large bunches of dark blue 
 Cornflowers were conspicuous. Besides these there were 
 Pinks of extraordinary size, and brilliantly coloured Anem- 
 ones on every stall; and lastly close by there were 
 baskets filled with sprays of orange blossom. 
 
 We walked up and down between all these flowers, 
 unable to take our eyes off them, and undecided as to 
 which we preferred. When a purchase was at last de- 
 cided upon, a crowd of women surrounded us offering 
 their services as carriers. And even when the basket 
 was filled to overflowing the temptation to buy something 
 more was hard to resist! 
 
 In front of the Nice churches, even on this morning, 
 a brisk sale was being carried on. In the fashionable 
 parts of the town they were selling etiolated Palm fronds 
 with plaited pinnae, also crosses made of the same. Be- 
 
PALM SUNDAY AT NICE. 
 
 395 
 
 sides these, twigs of Box and of Laurel in 
 bloom were offered for sale. In the poorer 
 quarters of the town Laurel and Box pre- 
 dominated, with the evergreen 
 The Laurel (Fig. 25 1 ) fetches 
 a higher price if its branches 
 bear fruit as well as blossom. 
 The clusters of its snia 
 yellowish tlowers are less / N\ 
 striking than the oval 
 berries which are the 
 size of an Olive and ' 
 
 almost black. It is Z-^.. ^^ 
 these latter, therefore. ^' 
 
 that form the chief ornament 
 of the twigs offered for sale. 
 But as the fruits ripen in 
 autumn it requires special 
 care to keep them on the 
 tree until spring. 
 
 It was beginning to get 
 very hot in Xice on that 
 Palm Sunda^' and I decided 
 to seek a cooler spot in one 
 of those valleys in the mountains 
 which can now be so easih' reached 
 de France railwaA-. I chose the 
 \'ar. but found it hardh' any cooler 
 the sea shore. Still it was so beautifully 
 romantic that I did not regret my 
 
 b\- the Sud 
 (yorge of the 
 than down b}- 
 
 wild and 
 
 choice. 
 
396 THE VAR VALLEY. 
 
 The lirst part of the Hne was alreach' known to us 
 as it leads to Grasse. The vegetation in the wide valle^' 
 of the Var was as vet but little advanced, the deciduous 
 shrubs appeared more bare than thev were at the corres- 
 ponding time last rear. But the glorious distant view 
 of the snowv Alps from Colomars, and the sight of 
 those old grey villages poised like eagles' evries on the 
 rocks, delighted us anew. This time we kept to the left 
 bank of the \"ar beyond Colomars, on the road that 
 leads to Puget Theniers. But at the next station, the 
 Pont Charles-Albert. I left the train to continue the 
 excursion on foot. At the same time several gentlemen 
 from the south of France also alighted here with the 
 intention of ascending Mt. V'ial, 5,110 feet high. Its 
 summit can be easih' reached from Gilette, six kilometres 
 distant from here. Below the summit is a cave, the 
 Balme de Touasc, in which the night can be spent so 
 as to be at the top by sunrise. The view embraces the 
 whole chain of the snowy Alps, from Mont St. Honorat 
 to the Cima del Diavolo, nearh' the entire coast of 
 the Riviera di Ponente, and the sea as far as Corsica, 
 These gentlemen invited me most cordially to join them 
 in their excursion, but I was due in Nice at a fixed time, 
 and therefore I was obliged to abide bv m^^ original 
 intention. I followed the bank of the Var with the 
 gorge, through which it flows, always before me. To 
 my left were precipitous rocks with ancient villages on 
 their summits. Behind these rose Mt. Vial in a suc- 
 cession of steps. Near the mouth of the ravine a stream 
 of water gushes out from the rock. It is water from 
 
THE GORGE OF THE VAR. 397 
 
 the \ ar wliicli lias been drawn off higher up and used 
 to <yenerate power tor the electric trams of Xice. At 
 Le Chiaudan the grandest part ol the road commences. 
 Here the wide \'ar valle^' narrows into a gorge, through 
 which the t(M'rent. ]Tent up in the narrow bed, rushes 
 violentlw The high road has been made In' blasting 
 awa^■ the rock, the railwa\- going for the most part 
 through tunnels. \\ e walk between high walls of rock 
 whose summits are lost to view. The strata in the 
 Jurassic limestone of the ravine are strangeh' contorted 
 and many coloured. The torrent has undermined the 
 cliff in many places so that its bed is not seen from the 
 road. The outline of the rocks varies continually. High 
 peaks move past the opening of the valley, then one of 
 the fantastic rock \illages, like shifting scenes. One 
 m ore turn in the road and we are completely hemmed in 
 on all sides b}' walls of rock. We can see only the 
 blue vault of heaven. The leafless trees of the broad 
 valley of the \'ar ceased at the entrance to the gorge 
 where the vegetation consists mainly of evergreen shrubs. 
 Even in the depths of winter, on sunn^- da\'s, the ravine 
 is worth a visit, for these plants do not change their 
 aspect in winter. The Hox, which in many places con- 
 ceals the light coloured rocks here with its dark foliage, 
 js uncommon in the local flora. The yellow Broom grows 
 where it produces the most striking effect, and the 
 sweet Molet covers some of the slopes in such abun- 
 dance that they are quite blue. Be\ond La Tinee the 
 narrow valle\' appears to be shut in on all sides b^■ mighty 
 cliffs, brighth' coloured in red, grey and white. A bold 
 
398 NICE. 
 
 bridge crosses the torrent obliquely and we reach the 
 spot where the \"ar and the Tinee unite. The Tinee 
 bursts forth from a narrow rocky opening, and as the 
 two torrents mingle here, the place is called "Mescla". 
 Another short stretch and the gorge begins to widen. 
 I returned to the station at La Mescla to wait for the 
 train from Paget Theniers. I had walked slowly and 
 continuoush' up hill more than nine kilometres from Pont 
 Charles Albert. 
 
 Nice is now a centre for numerous electric trams that 
 run along the coast as well as inland. Before very long 
 they will connect Mentone and Cannes without a break. 
 The nature lover may consider this an improvement, for 
 in these cars he can enjoy uninterrupted views along the 
 coast, and suffers less from motor dust than in an open 
 carriage. This spring they were already running be- 
 tween Mentone and Cap Martin; Beaulieu, Nice and 
 Cagnes; and Antibes and Cannes; not to mention the 
 lines inland. 
 
 Next day I went from Nice to Beaulieu, taking the 
 tram part of the way, and was struck by the large number 
 of Opuntias, (O. monacantha), all along Mont Boron. This 
 Cactus, a native of Brazil and the Argentine, has become 
 a formidable rival of the Opuntia Ficus Indica, which 
 has been naturalised on the Riviera di Ponente. Opuntia 
 monacantha is beginning to predominate in the neigh- 
 bourhood of Nice and San Remo. Its stem is dark green, 
 its lobes smaller and flatter and not so sharply separated 
 from each other as in O. Ficus Indica. It has larger and 
 whiter spines and bears an abundance of fruit, while 
 
MONT BORON. 399 
 
 O. FicHs liidica seldom fruits 
 ill this country. In spite 
 of the encroachment in 
 the direction of \'ille- 
 franche, made by the 
 Boulevard Carnot, the 
 south-east corner of 
 the Mont Boron has 
 still some remains of Maquis, and 
 c[uantities of Cistus in full bloom can 
 be seen there. On damp spots, near 
 the road above Villefranche, a yellow 
 Snapdragon, Autirrhiuum latifolmm (Fig. p. v^3), grows 
 in clumps and attracts attention bv the size of its flowers. 
 Galactites toiucntosa (Fig. p. 1S7), which is widely distri- 
 buted on the Riviera, was also growing here in abun- 
 dance. It is a Centaury with bright violet flowers and 
 is remarkable on account of its leaves spotted with white 
 which look as if sprinkled with milk. 
 
 From BeauHeu I struck into the inviting foot-path 
 which follows the eastern shore of Cap Ferrat. A strong 
 wind was blowing from the sea, and the water was very 
 rough. Heavy breakers beat against the rocks, and threw 
 their sprav up onto the path. The pretty Cineraria 
 maritima, (Fig. p. 77) grew evervwhere on the garden 
 walls. Here it was ver\- luxuriant and stretched its sil- 
 ver\' gre\- tufts of leaves sea-ward, for it loves the brinv 
 breath of the sea. On the steep rocks, against which 
 the waves broke, grew the greenish-grey Anthyllis Barba 
 ifoz't's (Fig. p. 29); this too revelled in the salt breeze. 
 
400 BEAULIEU. 
 
 Great masses of dead Grasswrack lie heaped up 
 on the shore in the bay of Beaulieu. The waves now 
 beat furiously on this bank of weed, dashing it up into 
 the air. The water looked as black as ink far out into 
 the bay. Fancy might paint such a sea in Hades with 
 its waves breaking on the gloomv shores of shadow-land. 
 The old Olive trees on the shore, with their weirdlv 
 contorted trunks and boughs, would be in keeping with 
 this idea; and the painter Hoellenbrueghel could not have 
 wished for anything more fantastic. Formerlv Beaulieu 
 could boast of its ancient Olive trees, but has now sac- 
 rificed them to the builder. Two of the largest existing 
 trees, one measuring over six vards in circumference, 
 can be seen at the turn of the road in front of the 
 Hotel Beaurivage. 
 
 The stretch of land between Beaulieu and Eza is 
 called "Petite Afrique". It is certainly the warmest spot 
 on the western Riviera, and probablv the warmest along 
 the whole coast from the south of Spain to the Gulf of 
 Salerno. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 At the Cap d'Antibes, my favourite resort. Herr 
 A. Sella, tor man}- years the manager of the Grand Hotel, 
 greeted me with the information that the house had now 
 come into his possession. He took over at the same 
 time, not only the ground around the Hotel but also the 
 adjoining park that had hitherto belonged to the Eng- 
 lish family Close, but which now, as "Park Sella", would 
 be open to the visitors at the hotel. The Grand Hotel 
 
CAP D'ANTIBES. 401 
 
 clu L"ap has lluis upwards of sevent\' hectares of hmd 
 covered with Maijuis. 1 lerr SeUa lias also obtained l<>r 
 his o-iiests access to tlie extreme point of the Lap, on 
 wliich are tlie Nfoorisli buildino-s. I was delighted to 
 hear this news. At a time when all propert\' on the 
 l\i\iera di I'onente is being parcelled up into petty frag- 
 ments, and when the primitiv^e vegetation of the Medi- 
 terranean region is fast disappearing all along the coast, 
 it is a matter of congratulation that one of the most 
 fa\oured spots has been rescued for the enjoyment of 
 those who delight in Nature. The Cap too, removed as 
 it is from the beaten track, and with its hill\- \vinding 
 roads, suffers less from the plague ot' motors than the 
 large towns on tlie coast which are connected b\- straight 
 and comparativeh' level roads. May the Cap d'Antibes 
 long attract those visitors who delight in tlie scener\- and 
 the botan\- of the Mediterranean region, and arc in search 
 of bracing air and rest on the Riviera. 
 
 In spring-time the peaks of the Ahiritime Alps 
 are often veiled in cloud, but theA- now stand out 
 sharph' against the clear background of the sk\'. It 
 was alwa^•s a fresh jo\- to me to look from the window 
 in the earh- morning at the snow^■ chain of the Alps, 
 and to see how the\- changed to purple in the light of 
 the sunrise. 
 
 I alwa\s went out earl\- to enio\' the magnilicent 
 view over land and sea from the hill ot Xotre Dame 
 de Bon-Port, often returning through the Maquis. lUit 
 I found that it is not alwa\"s advisable to take a short 
 cut through the tangled undergrowth. You may come 
 
402 LIZARD SNAKE. 
 
 into unpleasant contact with the spin-\- Genista, and 
 perhaps even be unable to move backward or forward. 
 An unexpected encounter somewhat startled me, for as 
 I was putting my foot down on a withered branch of 
 Lentiscus, a snake as thick as my wrist and nearly live 
 feet long swiftly escaped. Fortunateh- I had not trodden 
 on the creature, and it seemed harmless, for it went 
 away without showing any sign of anger. This "Lizard 
 Snake" (Coelopeltis I^acertina) is not uncommon at the 
 Cap d'Antibes. It is distinguished from all other Euro- 
 pean snakes by its deeply hollowed forehead and \)\ the 
 scales of its back being deeply grooved lengthwise. The 
 ground colour of the upper part is olive-brown. This 
 snake hisses loudl}' and thus often frightens those who 
 happen to come across it. But although it possesses in 
 each jaw a large sharp tapering fang, its bite is not 
 dangerous. From the moment when I was clear about 
 the nature of this snake, I felt no uneasiness. It did 
 not prevent my taking further rambles in the Matiuis 
 on the promontory. Apparenth^ it was not this Lizard 
 Snake, but another yellowish one, Coluber Aesc/ilapii, 
 which played a part in the service of the Greek Aescu- 
 lapian temples. The Romans introduced these reptiles 
 to Italy and the^- may also have brought them to the 
 German Spas. For they have been, and still are. met 
 with in German^-, particularh' in the vicinit\' of the old 
 watering places, such as Schlangenbad, which is named 
 after them. As a symbol of prophecy this serpent is 
 wound round the staff which Aesculapius, the God of 
 healing, bears in his hand. 
 
NOTRE DAME DE BON PORT. 
 
 403 
 
 A paved road leads down 
 from Notre Dame de Bon -Port 
 in the direction of the town of 
 Antibes. The cobbles of 
 this road have become so 
 smooth and slippery in the 
 course of time, from the 
 feet of the pilgrims who come 
 here on the S th of June, 
 that it is onlv with dif- 
 ficultv that one can keep 
 a foot-hold on them. Now 
 and then a woman ma}' be 
 seen kneeling before one of the shrines, 
 otherwise it is verv solitarv here in spring. 
 No devotee comes awav from the shrine with- 
 out sticking into the wire trellis a few 
 evergreen twigs or tiowers culled from the 
 Maquis. Half way up a foot-path turns to 
 the left along the slope. We now pass under 
 the shade of fine old Evergreen Oaks, the 
 remains of an extensive grove, where it is 
 cool and refreshing even on hot days 
 One is quite withdrawn from the world / 
 here, and can pass hour after hour 
 without seeing a human creature. Now 
 and then a branch stirs or a bird hops 
 up and looks surprised at the intruder. 
 
 The old fortified town of Antibes (Fig. 
 p. 1) would be well worth^• of preservation as 
 
 australis. 
 
404 ANTIBES. 
 
 a national monument. Nevertheless it has been handed over 
 to speculators who decreed that the walls and fortitications 
 facing landwards should be demolished. But the portion of 
 the town washed by the sea still retains its mediaeval aspect, 
 and there are plenty of spots to be found on the Cap, 
 whence this splendid picture can be seen in a suitable 
 setting against the dazzling background of the snows- 
 Alps. "Je n'avais jamais rien vu d'aussi surprenant et 
 d'aussi beau" exclaimed Guy de Maupassant, on seeing 
 Antibes at sunset. These are the opening words of a 
 little novel to which he gives the title of "Madame 
 Parisse". This picture made a similar impression on me 
 the first time I saw it from a rock near the shore towards 
 evening. "The little town", writes Guy de Maupassant, 
 "surrounded by massive walls built bv Vauban, juts out 
 into the open sea, in the middle of the vast Gulf of 
 Nice. The crested waves break at her feet surrounding 
 her with white foam. The houses crowd one upon 
 another above the fortifications, right up to the two 
 towers that rise proudly towards the sky. And these houses 
 and towers stand out against the milky whiteness of the Alps, 
 that giant wall that closes the view in the far distance. . . 
 The blue of the sk}- above the Alps is so faint that 
 the snow would seem to have robbed it of its colour. 
 A few silvery clouds floated above the pale peaks and 
 on the other side of the Gulf, at the water's edge, lay 
 Nice, forming a broad belt between the sea and the 
 hills. Two boats with Lateen sails were gliding over 
 the waves under a steady breeze ... It was one of 
 those sweet and rare visions that impress the human 
 
ANTIBES. 405 
 
 soul. roinaiuinL;" lil<c tlie menior\' of b^■gone hliss. We 
 live, we think, we suffer, we are impressed and we are 
 attracted hv sight. And he who is capable of receiving 
 deep impressions through the e\e, can feel as he looks 
 on Xature the same intense enjoyment as the musician 
 who listens to the most exquisite harmonies'". 
 
 The town of Antibes was, it seems. originalK- in- 
 habited b\' the Ligurians. It was called "Deciatium" but 
 later was given the name of '•Antipolis". as the to\Mi 
 opposite to Massilia. The \'ia Aurelia passed its walls, 
 and the twelfth Legion was garrisoned here. After the 
 battle of Poitiers, Antibes fell into the power of Clovis, 
 and later was sacked and pillaged b^' various tribes, 
 until it fell into the hands of Henr\' IV". Recognising 
 the strategic importance ot its position at the gates of 
 Provence, he bought up the rights of the Grimaldis 
 and other Barons, and took possession of the place. He 
 intended to fortify the town ; but it was Richelieu who 
 first began to 'carr\' out these plans which were con- 
 tinued b^' \^auban under Louis XI\\ and onh- completed 
 in the lifetime of Louis X\ \ The inhabitants of Antibes, 
 mindful of ro^■al favour, remained good Ro\'alists. This 
 the\' still proved to be in 1S15, when Xapoleon I landed 
 at Golfe Jouan after his escape from Elba. Xapoleon 
 sent Captain Lamouret with one lieutenant and sixteen 
 Grenadiers to Antibes, to place the Imperial Eagle ^on 
 the fortifications. But the Commandant of the Fortress, 
 Colonel Cuneo d"()rnano,had^ these envo\'s imprisoned 
 and forthwith declared the town to be in a state of siege. 
 On March 11*^ the\- were compelled hv Massena to hoist 
 
406 ANTIBES. 
 
 the Imperial Standard on the Fortress. But Louis X\'III. 
 was grateful to Antibes for the first resistance it had made 
 against Napoleon, and presented the town with a new coat 
 of arms, bearing gold lilies; and besides this he conferred on 
 the town the privilege of calling itself his "bonne ville''. 
 
 \"auban's "Fort Carre"' still stands unimpaired on 
 the other side of the harbour of Antibes. Like a gigantic 
 starfish cast up on the shore, this bulwark stretches out 
 its bastions towards all points of the compass. Often 
 have I been lost in contemplation ot this lovely scene 
 late in the day when the setting sun tinged the snow 
 of the Alps with rosy red, and the fort, already deeply 
 steeped in the dark shadows of evening, was silhouetted 
 against the clear background of the mountains. I either 
 wandered along the sea-shore bA' the roadstead of Antibes 
 or sat down on the further side of the old cemeter^^ and 
 gazed on the view through a setting of tall and ancient 
 Cypresses. 
 
 The nurser\- gardens of Mlmorin - Andrieux are 
 well worth a visit. The entrance is just above the 
 Villa Thuret on the main road leading from Antibes to 
 the point of the Cap. This plantation is devoted to the 
 rearing of special kinds of seeds. In the spring the 
 extensive green-houses on the terraces of the gardens, 
 which slope down towards Golfe Jouan, are chiefly 
 stocked with Primulas and Cinerarias. The plants under 
 cultivation are all show specimens: each plant resembles 
 the other in every respect. The eye is quite dazzled 
 by the brilliant colours of the Cinerarias. The two 
 species of Primula cultivated here in countless varieties 
 
PRIMULAS. — MAQUIS. 
 
 407 
 
 of shape and colour are Primula sinensis and ohconica. 
 We have recenth' been warned about these Primulas, as the 
 resinous secretion of their hairs may cause serious affections 
 
 of the 
 all alike 
 of the 
 told me 
 had only 
 in very 
 time it is best, 
 possible, to avoid 
 these plants which 
 used for decoration, 
 and not to bring 
 them near one's face. 
 All the plants and 
 
 skin and ejes. But it was evident that 
 
 are not affected b}- the poisonous hairs 
 
 Primula, for the Director of the gardens 
 
 that amongst his subordinates he 
 
 heard of this trouble occurring 
 
 the same 
 
 shrubs in the Maejuis 
 were in full bloom again at 
 the Grand Hotel du Cap, and 
 we could once more repose 
 undisturbed on a soft bed of 
 Ah'rtle and inhale the spic\' frag- 
 rance of the sweet herbs and the 
 pure sea air. The lovelv Op/irys 
 Bertolonii (Fig. p. 313) with the "wee 
 bird looking at itself in a glass'' grew in 
 great numbers in the new park, and on 
 the roadside was the singular Tragopoo-on 
 austral is (Fig. p. 403) a plant verv like 
 our Salsif\', with dark violet, terminal Tidtpa ciusiana. 
 
408 MAQUIS AT ANTIBES. 
 
 flower heads on a bare stem, surrounded by the green 
 involucre. The Spanish Broom Spartuim junceum, 
 (Fig. p. 395) is so abundant in this portion of the Maquis 
 that whole tracts are covered with it. A wealth of large 
 golden-vellow pea-flowers, poised on slender branches, 
 contrasts with the blue of the skv. The Pointe de ITslette, 
 in that part where the pseudo-moorish buildings stand, 
 is planted with a collection of shrubs as incongruous as 
 the architecture. Thev have destroyed the Maciuis bushes 
 and replaced them hx Cupressiis macrocarpa, PittosporiDu, 
 Medicago arhorca. Agaves, Iris and JMesouhrxantJiouuiu 
 aciuacefornie. It seems as if thev had intended to make 
 experiments in acclimatisation here, to ascertain which 
 foreign plants could best resist such an exposed situation. 
 Pittosponim, the large fruited Cypress and the Mesem- 
 bryanthemum have been very successful. One wonders 
 at their powers of resistance, on such ston\- ground, to 
 the winds, the fine sea-spra^" and the continued drought. 
 Not only do thev endure it but they flourish. A gardener 
 would indeed be necessary to help the indigenous vege- 
 tation to re-assert its rights. Let us hope that the time 
 is not far distant when the '"Islette" will again be clothed 
 in the fragrant beauty of the jMae|uis ! A few native 
 plants have held their ground on the further end of 
 the point, and at present there grow vonder. 
 Cistus (Fig. p. (S3) and Oleaster: jVh-rtle and Lentiscus 
 (Fig. p. 349) spread out like cushions ; while the 
 silvery grey foliage of JJcIic/irysinn and the bright 
 yellow blossoms of the Bird's foot Trefoil adorn the 
 ground. But the paths on this rugged strip of rocky 
 
AlARINI-: I'LANTS. 409 
 
 huul are the one permanent atlvantai^e of this over- 
 ciillix ation. These extend to its Inrther end and make 
 it possible to reacli the wild cHffs which disappear 
 beneath tlie waves. I lere xou can climb from rock to 
 rock, until at last \our feet touch the blue water. There 
 one can lie down, gazing into the crystal depths, and 
 sp\' out the curious plant torms which the sea contains, 
 and listen to the music of the waves which lose them- 
 selves amongst the lalnrinthine passages of the rocks. 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Plants are not found at so great a depth in the 
 sea as animals because of the conditions necessar\' 
 for plant life for the\' require light to assimilate the 
 substances on which they live, while animals are less 
 dependent on light. For plants utilise the ra^•s of the 
 sun to convert inorganic substances into nourishment. 
 They transform the energy of the light into cliemical 
 action and are thus able to separate carbonic gas into 
 its elements, ox^•gen and carbon ; and also to divide 
 water into its two component parts, oxygen and hydrogen. 
 The^• build up in their organisms carbo-h\'drates out 
 of carbon, ox\gen and hydrogen, particularly sugar and 
 starch, which they need for the support of life and for 
 forming their tissues. The assimilation of carbon takes 
 place in the green portions of the living cell substances. 
 This granular chlorophyll gives our landscape its green 
 appearance. Hut amongst marine plants we meet with 
 other colourings also. If \ ou walk along the shore of 
 the Mediterranean after a storm, \ou will see not onU' 
 
410 MARINE PLANTS. 
 
 green sea-weed but also brown and red thrown up. On 
 a ramble along the roclcA" shore at the Cap d'Antibes, 
 when the sea is calm. "\'ou will be struck by the same 
 variety in the colours of the marine vegetation, and by 
 the wealth of their forms. Many of the plants can be 
 reached by hand and pulled from the stones on which 
 they are growing. Branched green threads predominate 
 near the surface of the water: the^' hang down loosely 
 in thick wisps when the tide leaves them bare , and 
 separate again into fine threads when a new wave reaches 
 them. They belong to the genus Claydophora (Fig. p. Ill) 
 which is here represented by numerous species. In shallow 
 places grows the ribbon-like Ulva, a green Alga on 
 which the}' often serve oysters in Italy. Many other 
 brown plants are found near the water's edge but they 
 are different from those which we meet with on the 
 coasts of the Baltic and the North Sea. There we find 
 the various species of Fiictis, Bladder-wracks with tough 
 leather}- forked and ribbon-shaped thallus. Here the 
 bushy Cystoscira (Fig. p. 137) with cylindrical branches, 
 grows abundantl}^ In the shady crevices of the rocks 
 we find beautiful red species of varied and often elegant 
 forms. These are all plants which we class together 
 as Algae. The other divisions of the plant world are 
 onl}- represented bv a few submarine species, such for 
 instance as the Posidouia occaiiica, a Ligurian Grass- 
 wrack that predominates on the Riviera, often form- 
 ing whole meadows in the shallow bays of the Medi- 
 terranean sea. With this, here and there, is found the 
 small-leaved Zostera marina which bears the unpoetical 
 
GRASS -WRACK. 
 
 411 
 
 name of "Mattress Grass-wrack", because it is much used 
 in more northerly latitudes for upholstery. In Venice it 
 has been employed for ages to pack the glass ware and 
 thus obtained the name of ^l/o-a 1 Itrarioniju. Posidonia 
 oceanica is also used in Ital}-. here and there, for packing, 
 and in North Africa they thatch roofs with it. Both 
 plants belong to the Pond weeds or Potamogetonaceae, 
 and are monocotyledonous Phanerogams. Ligurian Grass- 
 wrack grows at a far greater depth than the Zostera. 
 In shallow water its leaves ma^■ be seen waving to and 
 fro like grass in our meadows when stirred by the wind. 
 In the bav between 
 of Antibes and the 
 projecting Cap, Posi- 
 donia grows in such 
 quantities that the shore 
 is heaped up high 
 
 Vihurntim Tintif 
 
412 MARINE PLANTS. 
 
 with its torn off leaves. It is not advisable to walk over 
 these heaps, for they give way under the weight of the body 
 and one sinks deeply into the wet leaves. To the west of 
 the Cap, on the sands of Golfe Jouan, round balls of a 
 light brown colour and fibrous structure are often found. 
 These used to be seen in chemists' shops under the name 
 of "pilae marinae''. They are loose pieces of the root- 
 stock of Grass-wrack covered with the fraved remains of 
 leaves. These are tossed about on the beach hv the 
 waves and formed into balls a decimetre in circumference. 
 Plant life in the sea does not descend lower than 
 1,150 feet. Below 260 feet it decreases rapidly even in 
 the southern seas, for at this depth the light is too dim 
 to maintain vegetable growth. By means of photographic 
 plates Fol and Sarasin proved that in the Mediterranean 
 sea, eighteen miles from the coast of the Riviera, there 
 is still a ver^- faint light action at a depth of 1,530 feet. 
 Other investigators state that this action of light can, 
 under certain conditions, exist 3()0 feet lower down. But 
 the assimilation of carbon bA* the plant has long before 
 this become impossible, especialh' as the composition of 
 the light changes with the depth. Of the various col- 
 oured rays of the spectrum, the red and yellow are first 
 absorbed, and the blue and violet last. If a beam of 
 sunlight be allowed to pass through a tube a ^'ard and 
 a half long filled with pure water, the red colour will 
 have already completely disappeared, the ^-ellow will be 
 but feebh' represented, and the green \vill be the most 
 brilliant. Near the surface, in sea water, green and blue- 
 green rays predominate, while the red and yellow have. 
 
.MAKIMC I'LANIS. 413 
 
 in a oreat measure, disappeared. The water has ab- 
 sorbed tliem. Tliosc wlio have been to the bhie ( xrotto 
 of Capri will remember the li^j^ht effect that lends it 
 sucli a magic charm. 'I^he lii^ht in the (jrotto is so blue 
 because it lias passed tlirough a considerable dcj'jth of 
 water, wliicli has absorbed tlie other ra\s. But accord- 
 ing to the physicist, Heinrich Kayser, the green (jrotto 
 of Capri owes its colour to the fact that the bottom is 
 level and consists of yellow, calcareous rock. As the 
 red raws of light are so rapidly absorbed b^' the water 
 we can understand wh\' red star-lish do not look red 
 but black at a certain depth. For there is no longer 
 sufficient red light to be strongh- retlected by them. 
 Green land plants utilise chiefly the red , yellow and 
 orange rays of light in the process of assimilation. But 
 water soon absorbs these rays. The depth, in seas or 
 lakes, at which photographic plates are affected, gives 
 per se little information about the possibility of plant 
 life at these depths, for it is chiefl\- the blue and violet 
 rays that affect photographic plates. The rapid disap- 
 pearance in the water of those rays necessary to green 
 plants would have limited the zone of vegetation still 
 more had not the Algae adapted themselves in a sin- 
 gular manner to their surroundings. Besides the green 
 colouring matter, which the landplants contain, the 
 Algae possess a red one, which enables them to employ 
 other light-ra\s for the work of assimilation. These 
 plants of the deep have assumed a colour which is 
 complementar\- to that of the light which reaches them. 
 Those Algae, therefore, which grow in the shallows. 
 
414 MARINE PLANTS. 
 
 and so live approximateh' in the same light as our land 
 plants, are, like them, green. The further from the sur- 
 face the deejDer the red becomes. But in narrow, rocky 
 crevices and caves, where the plants depend chietiy upon 
 indirect light, the red Algae approach the surface. In 
 several of the Grottoes of Posilipo at Naples the 
 red Algae, which usually grow at a depth of between 
 160 to 200 feet in the open sea, can be gathered by 
 hand. The dark brown colour, bA' which many 
 Algae are characterised, does not serve the same pur- 
 pose as the red. It is supposed that this brown 
 colouring matter acts as a screen and diminishes the 
 force of the sunlight. Thus the brown Sea -wracks of 
 the Mediterranean often grow up to the surface, and in 
 our Northern seas we find at low tide quantities of 
 Fucus in the open air, braving the direct ra^s of the sun. 
 
 These shade-loving Marine Algae are very sensitive 
 to bright light. This was proved hv Berthold who 
 found that at a depth of from 260 to 360 feet in the 
 Gulf of Naples there was too much light for them, and 
 the^' therefore suffered. 
 
 At Capri Berthold obtained fine and well developed 
 Algae at a depth of from 400 to 430 feet, showing that 
 the lowest range of their habitat was not reached. 
 This is remarkable when we consider that great white 
 disks sunk into the Mediterranean, when it is calm and 
 sunn\', disappear from view at a depth of from 165 to 
 200 feet. 
 
 It may be asserted that the deep sea fauna begins 
 approximately where plant life ceases. It continues down 
 
DEEP SEA FAUNA. 
 
 415 
 
 into profound abxsses surpassinij;" in depth the lieight of 
 the loftiest mountain ranges on the face of the earth. 
 Sounding's taken in tlie nortli west of the Pacific Ocean, 
 near the Mariana Ishuids, showed a depth of 31,790 feet, 
 this being the greatest depth ever reached in the ocean 
 up to the present. This exceeds the height of Mt. 
 Everest, the most loft\- peak of the Himalayas, b\' about 
 2,900 feet. The deepest part of the Mediterranean 
 (14.320 feet) is reached to the south of the Peloponnesus; 
 the configuration of its bed is ver^• varied, and ex- 
 hibits many deep troughs and hollows '•v formed b\- the 
 sinking of the ground. — As far 
 have been able to reach with our 
 animal life has always been found, 
 ures live in regions where no ra\' 
 penetrates. But darkness does not 
 supreme in those depths, for the\' 
 alh- illuminated by the creatures 
 Many primitive forms, 
 especially numerous worms, 
 crustaceans, cephalopods 
 and fish, phosphoresce 
 witli various coloured 
 lights; accordingly these 
 creatures of the deep are 
 not blind, but are 
 possessed of e^es, 
 often of striking 
 size. — The 
 diversity of ' the Algae continualK- \' 
 
 down as we 
 instruments, 
 
 'fhese creat- 
 of light ever 
 always reign 
 are macfic- 
 
 I i/rx . \rr/i//s-i:as/iis. 
 
416 SEA-WEEDS. 
 
 surprises and delights those who begin to study them. These 
 plants present a far greater variety of shapes than the land 
 plants which surround us; especialh' the Rhodophyceae 
 which abound in the Mediterranean. There are species 
 of red Algae which consist only of fine threads; others 
 whose various branches unite to form a definite structure, 
 as CalithaniNion roscittn (Fig. p. 57). Others again are 
 flat and branched in different ways, as ^^itophxlhim puiic- 
 tatiDii (Fig. p. 307); some resemble lichen, as Pe\sson)ielia 
 Squauiaria (Fig. p. 331); and lastly some remind us of 
 highly organised plants, as Delessen'a JIvpog-losszi/ii. In 
 some cases the resemblance is so striking that an un- 
 practised eye might be deceived as to their classification 
 in the \^egetable World. Next to the red Algae is a 
 group of green ones, the vSiphoneae, which are very 
 attractive on account of their elegance. Amongst these 
 are species {Bryopsis, Fig. p. 5i) branched like our Hyp- 
 num, others {Haleiucda, Fig. p. 221) that resemble small 
 Opuntias, and others again {Acetahularia, Fig. p. 9) 
 that look like slender bright green Toadstools. But what 
 most strikes anyone wandering on the sea-shore after a 
 storm is a dark green ball {('odiiiiu bursa, Fig. p. 113), 
 which may be the size of an orange or even of a child's 
 head. This also belongs to the Siphoneae. I have often 
 seen quantities of it in the Ba^■ of Villefranche. It is 
 filled with sea-water, and as this soon evaporates, the 
 ball shrinks and forms a cap. Of the brown Algae, 
 Cystoseira (Fig. p. 137) is the commonest. Next we have 
 the bushy Sphaccllaria (Fig. p. 399) and Padina Pavonia 
 (Fig. p. 319) which, clinging to the rocks in crowded 
 
SEA -WEED COLLECTING. 417 
 
 masses. niin-]it he taken lor iiuissels. The people call it 
 "Orrechio d\ Mare", sea ear. 
 
 When staxino- b\ the Mediterranean it is instructive 
 to make a small collection of Algae. This provides an 
 attractive object for walks and excursions on the sea 
 shore. These new plants cultivate our sense of form and 
 enlarge oiu" preconceived ideas of vegetable structure. 
 When the sea is calm we can cut the Algae off the rocks 
 with the sharpened edge of a wide-meshed nickelled 
 sieve, fastened oblic[uelv to a stick. \\'e bring them 
 home in a glass jar and place them in a bowl of sea- 
 water. Fresh water must not be used as it injures the 
 Algae. We then place each specimen in a very Hat dish, 
 like those used to develop photographs. The sea-water 
 in this must be perfecth' clean. We must not take too 
 large a spra\-. otherwise the fronds will overlap. ^V sheet 
 of white paper should then be slipped under, and the 
 Alga carefullv spread out on it, taking care to preserve 
 its natural appearance. Paper and Alga are then taken 
 out of the water. The Alga must now be dried with 
 blotting paper, and. to prevent it sticking to this latter, 
 it is necessar\' to cover the ^Mga with a piece of calico, 
 or better still, a bit of gauze. The blotting paper must 
 be frequent! \- changed, for the plant will lose its colour 
 unless dried rapidh-. The drying must take place under 
 considerable pressure, therefore the blotting paper must be 
 put between two boards and weighted with a large stone. 
 In dr\ing, salt will cr\'stalise on the Alga and the paper. 
 This salt must be removed, otherwise it will constantl\- 
 absorb moisture from the atmosphere, l^o get rid of the 
 
418 SEA- WEED COLLECTING. 
 
 salt the dried specimens must be plunged quickh' into fresh 
 water and again dried between blotting paper. It can then 
 be added to the collection. How beautiful the specimens of 
 such a collection are, and how well the}'preserve their struc- 
 ture and colour may be seen from the illustrations of ^ ito- 
 ph yUwiipuiictatuin (Fig. p. 307) and JJclcsseria Hypoglossuui 
 (Fig. p. 169), which were drawn from dried specimens. 
 If a bowl of sea-water containing Algae be shaken 
 in the dark, small flashes of light will be seen in it. This 
 is caused by luminous creatures which rest on the Algae 
 and emit sparks when disturbed. The Algae themselves 
 do not phosphoresce, but many of them have a curious 
 sheen in daylight and a wonderful brightness due to 
 reflection. Certain cell-contents of these Algae are so 
 constituted and disposed that the\' act like concave mirrors. 
 In the Mediterranean the finest effects are to be seen in the 
 genus Chylocladia, Rhodophyceae with whorled branches, 
 which shine blue, silvery-white or pink, and are sometimes 
 iridescent. The brown Cestosira also displays many colours 
 when the waves move it to and fro in the sunshine. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 A very strong Mistral, that generally set in towards 
 midday, kept the sky clear, and we reached the second 
 half of April without rain. On the 20 th the sun sank 
 behind the Esterel in a clear sk}', but higher in the 
 heavens long streaks of cloud had gathered. Soon they 
 were tinged with red, and, imparting their colour to 
 Golfe Jouan, made the crested waves quite rosy. The 
 sky in the west, beyond the mountains, turned a deep 
 
FAREWELL. 419 
 
 glo\vini:C orantje: before long the oraiifre clianged to 
 purple and threw blood red spots upon the sea. In this 
 lurid lifjht a shado\v\' bark o-lided silenth' throui^h the 
 water, reminding one ot the ferrv boat of Charon. 
 
 I quitted the sea-shore and ascended slowly to the 
 hotel through the avenue of Pines and Eucahptus. 
 Their foliage appeared black against the brilliant back- 
 ground of the sky. Here and there red streaks of light 
 gleamed between the branches, resembling lire. Gradu- 
 ally the colours paled and the wisps of cloud assumed a 
 bluish-gre\' tint, leaving onU' their edges golden. In the 
 west the orange tones lasted longer, then changed through 
 light yellow to the bright green of the zenith. The sea 
 turned a steely grey, then dull and black, and numerous 
 lights appeared along the shore. The great beacon of the 
 lighthouse traced its wide circle over land and sea. The 
 clouds gathered in denser masses, till only isolated stars 
 peeped down through the open portals of heaven. 
 
 Next morning it began to rain. The dr^' earth 
 eagerly drank in the water of which it had been so long 
 deprived, and the plants raised themselves towards the 
 refreshing drops. A sudden fall in the barometer indi- 
 cated a long spell of rain. We did not grudge it to 
 this parched district, which had languished long months 
 for want of water, or to these thirsty plants tliat had 
 been compelled to satisfy themselves with dew. But 
 the time had come for us to return. 
 
 17 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Page 
 
 Preface to the first edition VII 
 
 Preface to the second edition VIII 
 
 Introduction XI 
 
 Suggestions about tours and time of year XI 
 
 The climate of the Riviera XII 
 
 Climatic conditions XIII 
 
 Shelter from the wind XIII 
 
 Less sheltered resorts XIV 
 
 The Esterel range XV 
 
 The Montagues des Maures XV 
 
 Temperature XV 
 
 Number of sunny days XVI 
 
 Rain XVI 
 
 Changes of temperature XVI 
 
 List of lUustrations xviii 
 
 FIRST JOURNEY. 
 
 The weather 
 
 Bordighera 
 
 Sunrise 
 
 Monte Nero ...... 
 
 Sasso 
 
 Olive groves 
 
 Olive harvest 
 
 Olive Oil 
 
 Origin and distribution of 
 
 the Olive tree . . . . 
 
 "La chasse", Shooting . . 
 
 Page I Page 
 
 1 Spring flowers ..... 14 
 
 2 ; The Vine 16 
 
 2 Distribution of the Vine . 17 
 
 3 Origin of the Vine ... 18 
 
 6 Wines in ancient times . . 19 
 
 7 Wine-growing 21 
 
 8 Date Palms at Bordighera . 23 
 
 9 ! Date Palms, their treatment 26 
 
 Date Palms, their fruits . 28 
 
 12 Fruits of Phoenix melano- 
 
 14 carpa 30 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 421 
 
 Pa-e 
 
 Other Palms 30 
 
 Mentonc 33 
 
 Gorbio valley 34 
 
 Richness of the flora ... 35 
 
 St. Agnese 36 
 
 Judas tree 38 
 
 Road to the Pont St. Louis 38 
 
 Gardens by the road side . 38 
 
 The bridge 40 
 
 The ravine 44 
 
 La JMortola Gardens ... 44 
 
 Plant-treasures of the garden 45 
 
 Profusion of flowers in spring 46 
 
 Acacias 46 
 
 Highly perfumed plants . . 47 
 Perfumed and armed legu- 
 minous plants .... 48 
 
 Casuarinas 48 
 
 Eucalypti 49 
 
 Agrumi, species of Citrus . 51 
 
 Home of the Agrumi . . 52 
 
 Freaks 62 
 
 Bizzarria 62 
 
 Hybrids ; grafting .... 62 
 
 Cytisus Adami 63 
 
 Mentions of hybridisation by 
 
 grafting in ancient times 64 
 
 Other opinions 65 
 
 Wigandia caracasana and 
 
 Echium frutescens . . 66 
 The Laurel in religion and 
 
 superstition 67 
 
 Camphor tree 69 
 
 Cinnamon tree 69 
 
 Otherplantsof theLauraceae 70 
 
 "Midshipman's butter" . . 70 
 
 The Egyptian Persea . . 70 
 Mummy wreaths .... 
 
 Tropical fruit trees ... 71 
 
 Guavas 71 
 
 Kaki fruits 72 
 
 I'apTC 
 
 Ebony wood 73 
 
 Mango tree 73 
 
 'Pepper tree" 73 
 
 True Pepper 73 
 
 Japanese lacquer plants . . 73 
 
 Zizyphus Lotus 74 
 
 Lotophagi 74 
 
 Plants known as Lotos in 
 
 ancient times .... 74 
 
 Zizyphus spina Christi . . 75 
 
 The Crown of Thorns . . 75 
 
 Caper bush 75 
 
 Nightshades, Solanaceae . 76 
 
 Aubergine 7'> 
 
 Cannibals' Tomato ... 76 
 
 Umbellates 77 
 
 Ferula communis .... 78 
 
 Ferula in legend .... 78 
 
 Asa foetida 78 
 
 Japanese Medlar .... 79 
 
 Other Rosaceae .... 79 
 
 Panama wood 79 
 
 Carob 80 
 
 Carat weight 80 
 
 Coloured Irises' 81 
 
 Tea tree 82 
 
 Coffee tree 83 
 
 Khat plant 84 
 
 Mate 84 
 
 Kola nut 84 
 
 Camellia, Rhododendron, and 
 
 Azalea 84 
 
 Sweet scented Balsams . . 84 
 
 Storax 85 
 
 Jewish incense 85 
 
 Myrrh 85 
 
 Myrrh of the Egyptians. . 85 
 
 Incense 85 
 
 Indigo plants 85 
 
 Coniferae of La Mortola 
 
 Gardens 86 
 
 17* 
 
422 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Page 
 
 Cycad and Palm fronds . . 87 
 
 Palms of La Mortola . . 87 
 
 Bamboo 87 
 
 Bamboo uses of, ... . 87 
 
 Tabashir 90 
 
 Rapid growth of the Bamboo 9 1 
 
 Saccharum 91 
 
 Sugar Cane 92 
 
 Sugar refinery 93 
 
 Sugar, production of . . . 93 
 
 Cane sugar 93 
 
 Palazzo Orengo and the 
 
 plants surrounding it . 94 
 
 Pergola with climbers . . 96 
 
 Cypresses of La Mortola , 97 
 Walk on the Strada nazionale 
 
 to Mentone .... 98 
 Striking plants of Italian 
 
 landscape 99 
 
 Garavan 101 
 
 Stimulants and luxuries from 
 
 the vegetable world . . 102 
 
 Tea 102 
 
 Coffee 104 
 
 Cocoa 107 
 
 Cocain 110 
 
 Cloves Ill 
 
 Nutmeg 113 
 
 Cinnamon 113 
 
 Page 
 
 Pepper 114 
 
 Ginger 114 
 
 Rotite de la Corniche . . . 113 
 
 La Turbie 116 
 
 Eza .117 
 
 Nice 117 
 
 Cap d'Antibes 118 
 
 Antipolis, the present Antibes 120 
 
 Notre Dame de Bon-Port . 121 
 
 Grand Hotel du Cap . . . 121 
 
 CHffs of the Cap .... 122 
 
 Maquis or Garigue . . . 123 
 
 Plants of the Maquis . . 123 
 
 Pointe de I'lslette .... 136 
 
 Garden plants at the Hotel 136 
 
 Aleppo and Maritime Pines 138 
 
 Procession caterpillars . . 139 
 
 Sea storm at Cap d'Antibes 140 
 
 Road across the Cap . . 142 
 
 Flower growing .... 142 
 
 Eilen Rock 146 
 
 Thuret Gardens .... 146 
 
 Pine-wood at Golfe Jouan . 147 
 Walk to the lighthouse of 
 
 Antibes 147 
 
 Plants by the road-side . . 147 
 
 View from the lighthouse . 148 
 
 Sunset 149 
 
 Climatic conditions on 
 
 Riviera 151 
 
 Hyeres 151 
 
 Stoechades 153 
 
 Former Orange cultivation 
 
 at Hyeres 154 
 
 Palms of Hyeres .... 156 
 
 Old descriptions of Hyeres 157 
 
 Maurettes 158 
 
 SECOND JOURNEY 
 
 the 
 
 Chastel d'Yeres . . . 
 
 158 
 
 Troubadours ..... 
 
 159 
 
 Castle in a storm . . . 
 
 159 
 
 Mo7itagnes des Maurcs . 
 
 160 
 
 Geology and Orography 
 
 160 
 
 Cork Oak woods . . . 
 
 161 
 
 Cork industry .... 
 
 162 
 
 Formation of Cork 
 
 164 
 
 Spanish Chestnuts . . 
 
 165 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 423 
 
 rage 
 
 Bonnes 166 
 
 Lavandou 166 
 
 Manufacture of bottle corks 167 
 
 Use of cork parings . . . 167 
 Sealing of amphorae and 
 
 casks in ancient times . 168 
 
 67. Tropcz 168 
 
 Road to La Foux . . . . 173 
 
 La Garde Freinet . . . . 173 
 Along the coast to St. 
 
 Raphael 174 
 
 Frejus 176 
 
 St. RaJ>hael 179 
 
 The Esterel 182 
 
 Excursion to Mont Vinaigre 183 
 
 Valescure 183 
 
 Page 
 
 Malpav 185 
 
 On the summit of Mont 
 
 Vinaigre 188 
 
 Auberge des Adrets . . . 189 
 
 Vallon de la Cabre . , . 191 
 
 Agay 192 
 
 Malinfernet 194 
 
 St. Aigulf 196 
 
 Le Tray (IS 198 
 
 Fishing by night .... 200 
 
 Cap Roux 202 
 
 Ste. Beaume d'Honorat . . 203 
 
 Summit of Cap Roux . . 208 
 
 Pic d'Aurele 210 
 
 Roman Roads 210 
 
 Coast Road to Agay . . . 212 
 
 THIRD JOURNEY. 
 
 Cannes 
 
 215 
 
 View from Hotel Californie 
 
 217 
 
 Rambles on the heights 
 
 219 
 
 Le Cannet 
 
 220 
 
 \'allauris 
 
 222 
 
 lies de Lerins 
 
 223 
 
 lie Ste. Marguerite . . . 
 
 223 
 
 Iron Mask 
 
 223 
 
 Character of vegetation 
 
 227 
 
 Crossing to St. Honorat 
 
 228 
 
 Lerina 
 
 229 
 
 St. Honoratus 
 
 229 
 
 Monasterv on St. Honorat 
 
 229 
 
 Old Castle and its Flora . 
 
 234 
 
 Violets in ancient times 
 
 234 
 
 Character of vegetation 
 
 235 
 
 lie St. Fereol 
 
 236 
 
 Legend about Paganini . . 
 
 237 
 
 Sunset from Ste. Marguerite 
 
 240 
 
 Cannes, its history and devel- 
 
 
 opment 
 
 240 
 
 Agave industry 
 
 244 
 
 Formation of the inflores- 
 cence of Agave and Four- 
 
 croya 245 
 
 Intoxicating beverages from 
 
 Agave sap 246 
 
 Aloe-wood 247 
 
 Croix-des-Gardes .... 248 
 
 Villa La Rochefoucauld . 248 
 Excursion to the Cap d 'An- 
 
 tibes 249 
 
 Effects of sunHght . . . 249 
 
 Jouan les Pins 252 
 
 Cap d'Antibes ..... 252 
 
 Cap Martin 253 
 
 Paths on Cap Martin . . 254 
 
 Vegetation 254 
 
 ("hanging lights .... 255 
 
 Points of view 258 
 
 Olive grove 259 
 
 Climate 259 
 
 Moonlight 261 
 
 Storm from the North . . 263 
 
424 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 FOURTH JOURNEY 
 
 Page 
 
 Road from Ventimiglia to 
 
 Mentone 
 
 Mentone 
 
 Maquis, remaining at Mentone 
 Convent of the Annonciade 
 Ridge of Castellar . . . 
 Valley of Gorbio .... 
 
 Sanatorium 
 
 Shooting range above Gorbio 
 Fig tree, its history . . 
 Fig tree, its varieties 
 
 Caprifig 
 
 Caprification 
 
 Fig trees in Germany . . 
 Structure of the Fig 
 PolHnation and fructification 
 Part played by wasps 
 
 Smyrna figs 
 
 Smyrna figs, their intro- 
 duction into the United 
 
 States 
 
 Number of varieties of Fig 
 Varieties of Fig at Nice 
 Nutrient value of the Fig . 
 Figs as food in ancient 
 
 times 
 
 Parthenogenesis of Ficus 
 
 hirta 
 
 Wild and half-wild Fig trees 
 
 Date Palms, introduction of 
 
 the best varieties into the 
 
 United States .... 
 
 European fruits in the United 
 
 States 
 
 Pollination of Arisarum vul- 
 
 gare 
 
 Pollination of Arum Italicum 
 Phyllosiphon Arisari . . 
 Moonlight at Garavan . . 
 
 265 
 266 
 266 
 266 
 266 
 268 
 268 
 268 
 269 
 270 
 270 
 270 
 271 
 271 
 272 
 273 
 274 
 
 275 
 275 
 276 
 276 
 
 276 
 
 278 
 279 
 
 279 
 
 280 
 
 281 
 281 
 
 282 
 282 
 
 Page 
 Description of the moon bv 
 
 Pliny 283 
 
 Colouring of the sea and 
 
 its cause 284 
 
 Depth of the Mediterranean 
 
 sea 286 
 
 Temperature of the water 
 
 of the Mediterranean . 286 
 Tamarisks by the Mediter- 
 ranean 287 
 
 Castor-oil plant at Mentone 287 
 
 Castor oil 288 
 
 Phosphorescence of the sea 289 
 Luminous organisms of land 
 
 and sea 290 
 
 Plankton 291 
 
 Luminous Bacteria . . . 291 
 
 Phosphorescent fish and flesh 292 
 
 Causes of phosphorescence 292 
 Safety lamps made with 
 
 luminous Bacteria . . . 294 
 
 Baussi Rossi and caves . . 294 
 
 Prehistoric discoveries . . 294 
 
 Railway from Nice to Grasse 295 
 The valley of the Var . .296 
 
 Vence 297 
 
 Grasse 297 
 
 Origin of the town . . . 298 
 
 Perfume industry .... 299 
 
 Bouquets 299 
 
 Origin of perfumery . . . 299 
 Chemical manufacture of 
 
 perfumes 300 
 
 Natural products .... 303 
 
 Ethereal oils 303 
 
 Ethereal oils, extraction of. 304 
 
 Distillation 304 
 
 Maceration with liquid fat 304 
 
 Absorbtion by cold fat . . 304 
 
CONTKNTS. 
 
 425 
 
 Fajrc 
 Manner of obtaining and 
 
 clarifying fat .... 305 
 
 \'iolet perfume 306 
 
 Extraction by Petrol -etlier 30b 
 
 "Violet root" 30/ 
 
 Sandal-wood 308 
 
 Orange flowers 309 
 
 iSIanufacture of pomade on 
 
 a small scale . . . . 312 
 
 Oil of Roses 312 
 
 Reseda 316 
 
 Lavender and Rosemary oil 316 
 
 Eau de Cologne . . . . 318 
 
 Jasmine 320 
 
 Tuberoses 321 
 
 Flower perfume at different 
 
 times of day . . . . 321 
 
 Cucumber scent, Garlic oil 322 
 
 Page 
 
 Spirits of Hartshorn in per- 
 fumery 322 
 
 Ethereal oils as poisons . 323 
 Ethereal oils, their oxidation, 323 
 Susceptibility of the sense 
 
 of smell 324 
 
 Flower growing on the 
 
 Riviera 325 
 
 Perfuming of the body in 
 
 ancient times .... 326 
 Manufacture of unguents in 
 
 ancient times .... 327 
 Excessive use of imguents 
 
 in ancient times . . . 329 
 Wreaths at drinking feasts 330 
 Luxury in ancient times . 331 
 Perfumes at the courts of 
 
 France and England . . 334 
 
 FIFTH JOURNEY 
 
 Xervi 338 
 
 Marine parade 339 
 
 The sea 340 
 
 Pliny's praise of the earth . 341 
 Michelet's impression of 
 
 the sea 342 
 
 Former conditions on the 
 
 Ligurian coast .... 344 
 
 Nervi sheltered from the wind 346 
 
 Old descriptions of Nervi . 346 
 
 Xervi's development . . . 347 
 
 Plants an index to climate . 348 
 
 Plants on the beach . . . 351 
 Excursion to Monte di Porto- 
 
 fino 352 
 
 Plants on the promontory . 353 
 
 Maquis 354 
 
 Botanical knowledge of the 
 
 Ligurians 357 
 
 San Fruttuoso 357 
 
 Slaughter of birds in Italy 
 Legend of San Fructuosus 
 Sea trip to Portofino . . 
 
 Portopiio 
 
 Its history 
 
 Madonna del Capo . . . 
 Monastery of Cervara . . 
 
 Sestri Levantc 
 
 Climate 
 
 Vegetation 
 
 Villa Piuma 
 
 Telegrapho 
 
 Santa Anna 
 
 Mountain Road from Chia- 
 vari to Rapallo. . 
 
 Zoagli 
 
 Entella 
 
 San Salvatore 
 
 The Fieschi 
 
 Excursion to Bracco . 
 
 358 
 361 
 363 
 364 
 364 
 365 
 365 
 366 
 367 
 367 
 368 
 369 
 
 374 
 375 
 375 
 375 
 376 
 377 
 
426 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Page 
 
 Geology of the Levante . 3/9 
 
 Iberian-maritime plants . . 379 
 
 Cinque Terre 380 
 
 San Remo 382 
 
 Appearance of theVegetation 383 
 
 Villa Evelina 383 
 
 Via Berigo 384 
 
 Romolo Valley 384 
 
 Old Town of San Remo . 385 
 
 East end of San Remo . . 388 
 
 Capo Verde 388 
 
 Bussano 389 
 
 Taggia Valley 389 
 
 Intarsiatore 390 
 
 Lemon Trade 390 
 
 Ospcdaletti 391 
 
 Capo Nero 392 
 
 Coldirodi 393 
 
 Nice 393 
 
 Flower Market 393 
 
 Palm Sunday 394 
 
 Excursion to the Gorges of 
 
 the Var 395 
 
 Electric Trams at Nice . . 398 
 
 Opuntias on Mont Boron . 398 
 
 Beaulieu 398 
 
 Cap Ferrat 399 
 
 Petite-Afrique 400 
 
 Page 
 
 Cap d'Antibes 400 
 
 Grand Hotel du Cap ... 400 
 
 Notre Dame de Bon-Port . 401 
 
 Lizard Snake 402 
 
 Shrines 403 
 
 Wood of Evergreen Oaks . 403 
 
 Town of Antibes .... 403 
 
 Fort Carre 406 
 
 Nursery gardens of Vilmorin- 
 
 Andrieux 406 
 
 Primulas 407 
 
 Maquis near the Grand Hotel 407 
 
 Pointe de L'Islette ... 408 
 
 Sea Plants 409 
 
 Conditions of their existence 409 
 
 Varieties 410 
 
 Grass-wrack 411 
 
 Balls of Grass-wrack . . 412 
 Absorbtion of light in water 412 
 Colouring of Algae depen- 
 dent upon depth of water 413 
 Deep-sea Fauna . . . . 414 
 Wealth of forms in Algae 416 
 Collecting and drying of 
 
 Algae 417 
 
 Mistral 418 
 
 Evening lights 419 
 
 Change of weather . . . 419 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Acacia, cultriformis, 144. 
 „ dealbata, 144. 
 „ Farnesiana (Fig. p. 5), 46, 
 
 320. 
 Acacia, horrida, 4". 
 „ Julibrissin, 47- 
 
 „ retinoides, 144. 
 
 „ Senegal. Gum Arabic, 47. 
 Acetabularia mediterranea, (Fig. 
 
 p. 9.), 416. 
 Adam's Apple, 55. 
 Adiantum Capillus Veneris (Fig. 
 
 p. 13), 35. 
 Adrets, Auberge des, 189. 
 Agaricus melleus, 290. 
 Agathon portus, 194. 
 Agave, 94, 99. 
 
 „ americana, 244. 
 
 , central shoot of, 246. 
 
 „ inflorescence, rapid deve- 
 
 lopment of the, 245. 
 „ Mescal, 246. 
 „ Pulque, 246. 
 
 „ Salmiana, 94. 
 
 Agay, 191, 192. 
 Agel, Mont, 11". 
 Agnese, St.. 34, 36, 269. 
 Agrumi, 51. 
 
 ,, yield of fruit, 60. 
 
 Aigulf, St., 176, 182, 196. 
 Alant, 351. 
 Albizzia Julibrissin, 47. 
 
 Aleppo Pine, 138. 
 Alga vitrariorum, 411. 
 Alligator Pear, 70. 
 Allium, 145. 
 
 „ neapolitanum, 16. 
 Aloe, see also Agave, 94, 244. 
 Aloe-wood, 244. 
 Alyssum maritimum, 266. 
 Amber tree, 85. 
 Ampeglio, Cap d', 2, 392. 
 Ampelodesmos tenax, 356. 
 Amphorae, bunging of, 168. 
 Andropogon citratus, 316. 
 „ muricatus, 303. 
 
 „ Nardus, 316. 
 
 Anemone coronaria (Fig. p. 1/), 16. 
 „ pavonina (Fig. p. 21), 16. 
 
 stellata (Fig. p. 25), 16. 
 Anemones 34, 143. 
 Angst, Hotel, 5. 
 Anisaldehyd, 191. 
 Annonciade, convent of, 266. 
 Anthocaris Euphenoides (Fig. p. 
 
 143), 142. 
 Anthyllis Barba Jovis (Fig. p. 29), 
 
 39. 
 Antibcs^ view of (Fig. p. 1), 403. 
 405. 
 „ Cap d'. flower growing at, 
 
 142. 
 „ Cap d'. gardens of, 118, 
 
 141, 252, 4(10. 
 
428 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Antibes, Cap d', Grand Hotel of, 
 
 120, 136, 400, 407. 
 „ history of, 405. 
 
 „ town of, 403. 
 
 „ Notre Dame de Bon-Port, 
 
 121, 401, 403. 
 
 , Cap d', Oriental buil- 
 dings at, 253. 
 Antipolis, 120. 
 
 Antirrhinum latifolium (Fig. p. 33). 
 Apennines, 3y"'7. 
 Apples, 34. 
 
 „ of the Hesperides, 59. 
 
 Aquilaria Agallocha, 24". 
 Aranci, 59. 
 Araucaria. 86. 
 Arbor Vitae, 368. 
 Arbutus Unedo (Fig. p. 37), 131. 
 Arctotis aspera, 40. 
 Argens river, 177- 
 Arisarum vulgare (Fig. p. 41), 280. 
 ,, „ pollination of, 
 
 281. 
 Arum arisarum, see Arisarum 
 
 vulgare. 
 Arum, temperature of inflores- 
 cence 281. 
 „ italicum , pollination of, 
 
 281. 
 Asa foetida, 79. 
 Aspalathus, 48, 
 Asparagus acutifolius (Fig. p. 45), 
 
 132. 
 Aspergillum, 67. 
 Asphodels, 188. 
 Asphodelus albus, 188. 
 
 „ ramosus (Fig. p. 49), 
 
 Atmosphere, clearness of on the 
 
 Riviera, 251. 
 Atriplex Halimus, 148. 
 Aubergine, 76. 
 Augustus, Tower of, 116. 
 
 Aurele, Pic d', 186, 199, 204, 210. 
 
 Plage d', 186, 212. 
 Aurelia.Via, 173. 186.211.364,375. 
 Aurelian roads, 210, 186. 
 Aygulf, St., see St. Aigulf. 
 Azaleas, 84, 348. 
 
 Bale des Anges, 119, 120. 
 Bacteria, influence of light on, 
 249, 250. 
 
 luminous, 291, 292. 
 Balsams, 84. 
 
 Balsamodendron abyssinicum, 85. 
 Bamboo, 87. 
 
 ., healing powers of, 90. 
 
 „ uses of, 87, 88. 
 
 „ growth of, 91. 
 
 Bambusa arundinacea, 87- 
 Banksia marcessens, 96. 
 
 „ Rose, 97. 
 Bar, Le, 297. 
 Barbier, Jules, 182. 
 Barnisotte blanche, 276. 
 Baussi Rossi, 294. 
 Bazaine. 226. 
 Beaulieu, 399. 
 Beet Sugar, see Sugar. 
 Bellone, 276. 
 
 Bennet, garden of the late Dr., 98. 
 Benzadehyd, 300. 
 Bergamot, oil of, 61, 310. 
 Betel nut, 31. 
 Bignone, Monte, 385, 390. 
 Bignonia oxymoides, oil of, 74. 
 Birds, shooting of, 14. 
 
 „ netting and destruction of 
 in Italy, 358. 
 Bird's foot Trefoil, 135. 
 Bitter Almond, oil of, 300. 
 Bizzarria, 62, 65. 
 Blastophaga grosorum, 277. 
 „ Javana, 278. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 429 
 
 Blastophagae, 2/8. 
 
 Horigo, valley of, 33. 
 
 Honson. 296. 
 
 /iordi'i^/icrd, 2, 3. 
 
 Bordighera, climate of, 6. 
 
 Bors^hetto, valley of, 6, 
 
 Bormes, 166. 
 
 Boswellia, species of, 85 
 
 Bougainvillea, 40, 97, 216. 
 
 Bouillabaisse, recipe for, 1/2 
 
 Bouquets, mixture of perfumes, 299. 
 
 Box, 28, 395. 397. 
 
 Bracco 377, 378. 
 
 Brahea Roezli, 32. 
 
 Bramble, 356. 
 
 Bravades, 241. 
 
 Bresca, family of, 25. 
 
 Broad Bean, its history, 349. 
 
 Broad Beans, 348. 
 
 Brogiotto bianco, 276. 
 
 Broom, 187. 
 
 , species of, 48. 
 Brown Algae. 410. 414. 
 Bryopsis, 416. 
 
 „ plumosa (Fig. p. 53). 
 
 Buck-fig. 270. 
 Buckthorn, 254, 354. 
 Buddha's Hand, 62. 
 Buddleia Lindleyana, 39. 
 Bussano, 389. 
 Butcher's Broom, 133. 
 
 Cabbe-Roquebrune, 38. 
 Cabre, Vallon de la, 191. 
 Cacciatori. 14. 
 Caffein, 103. 
 Cafetiers, 56. 
 Cafta, 84. 
 Caire Agnel, 296. 
 Caggio, Monte, 4. 
 Calamus Rotang, 88. 
 Calcareous plants, 163. 
 
 Callithamnion roseum (Fig. p. 57), 
 
 416. 
 Callitris quadrivalvis, 52. 
 Calycotome spinosa, (Fig. p. 61), 
 
 128, 194, 356. 
 Camellia, origin of Name, 82, 84. 
 „ Thca, native country of, 82. 
 Camogli, 352. 
 Camphor tree, 69. 
 
 ,, oil of, 301. 
 
 Cananga odorata, 303. 
 Canary Date Palm, see Phoenix 
 
 Canariensis, 30, 31. 
 Candytuft, 192. 
 
 Cannes, original appearance of, 242. 
 history of. 240. 243. 
 
 „ road to the Cap d'An- 
 tibes, 249, 251. 
 
 , -Eden. 222. 
 Cannet. Le, 220. 
 Capers, 75. 
 
 Caper bush, see Capparis. 
 Capparis spinosa, (Fig. p. 65), 75. 
 Capri, grottoes of. 413. 
 C.-iprification 270, 274, 277. 
 Caprificus, 270. 
 
 „ its introduction into 
 
 California, 275. 
 Caprifig, see Caprificus. 
 Carat, 80. 
 
 Carei, valley of, 33. 
 Carnations, see Pinks. 
 Carnauba Palm, 32. 
 Carob tree, see Ceratonia. 
 Caroubier, 80. 
 Carros, 296. 
 Casuarina, 48, 138. 
 Cassie. 321. 
 Castellar, 34. 266, 
 Castor oil. 288. 
 
 , plant, 288. 
 Catha edulis, 84. 
 
430 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Caves near Mentone, 294. 
 
 Cavi, 373. 
 
 Cedrat, 55. 
 
 Cells, discovery of, in cork, 164. 
 
 Celtis australis, 74. 
 
 Centranthus ruber, (Fig. p. 71), 98. 
 
 Ceratonia siliqua, 80, 261. 
 
 Cercis siliquastrum. 38, 
 
 Cervara, monastery of, 362, 365, 
 
 366. 
 Cetroni, 58. 
 Chamaerops, species of, 30 
 
 „ uses of, 30, 32. 
 
 „ excelsa, 30. 
 
 „ humilis, 30. 
 
 Charles-Albert, Pont, 396. 
 Chasseurs Alpins, 268. 
 Chaste! d'Yeres, 158. 
 Chenopodium Quinoa, 110. 
 Chiaudan, 397. 
 Chiavari, 365. 
 
 Chiavari-Rapallo, road, 373. 
 Chinois, 61. 
 Chokoladl, 118. 
 "Christ's Acacia" 75. 
 Chrysanthemum frutescens, 42, 
 
 136, 145. 
 Cineraria maritima (Fig. p. "i"]), 35 1 . 
 Cinnamon, 69. 
 
 „ tree, 69, 303. 
 
 Cinnamomum camphora, 69. 
 
 „ ., ceylanicum, 69, 303. 
 
 Cinque Terre, 379, 380. 
 Cistuses, 127, 128, 147, 194,235, 
 
 267, 356. 
 Cistus albidus (Fig. p. 83), 127, 
 
 194, 235. 
 Cistus monspeliensis (Fig p. 89), 
 
 127, 235. 
 Cistus salviifolius (Fig. p. 95), 235. 
 Citrangulum, 58, 59. 
 Citral, 302. 
 
 Citronelle, 315. 
 Citron, 54. 
 
 „ oil, 302. 
 Citruli, 58. 
 Citrus, 51, 
 
 „ species of, native country,61. 
 
 „ aurantium var. Buddha- 
 fingered, 62. 
 
 „ Bergamia, 61. 
 
 „ Bigaradia, 309. 
 
 „ decumana, 57. 
 
 „ fruits, freaks of, 62, 
 
 „ „ as an antidote, 53. 
 
 „ to keep off moth, 53, 
 
 „ legends, 53. 
 
 „ the name, 53, 
 
 „ origin of, 52, 53, 
 
 „ medica, 54. 
 
 „ nobilis, introduction of, 60, 
 
 „ trifoliata, 61. 
 Cladonia alcicornis, 134. 
 Cladophora, 410. 
 
 „ laetevirens (Fig.p. 101). 
 
 Clearness of the atmosphere on 
 
 the Riviera, 251. 
 Clematis, 175. 
 Cleopatra, 142. 
 
 Climbing plants at La Mortola. 96. 
 Clove, history of. 111. 
 
 „ monopoly of. 112. 
 
 „ origin of, 112. 
 
 „ tree. 111. 
 Cneorum tricoccum, (Fig. p. 107), 
 
 113, 254. 
 Cnethocampa Pitocampa, 139. 
 Coca leaves, 1 10. 
 Cocain, 110. 
 Coca chewing, 110. 
 Cocos australis, 31. 
 
 „ flexuosa, 31. 
 
 „ nucifera, 31, 
 
 _ Romanzoffiana, 31. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 431 
 
 Cochineal, 132. 
 Coconut palm, 31. 
 Cocoa, lO/". 
 
 „ its introduction, 108. 
 
 „ tree, 107- 
 
 „ nibs, in Mexico, 108. 
 Codium Bursa, (Fig. p. 113), 416. 
 Coelopeltis lacertina, 402. 
 Coffee, 102, 104. 
 
 „ its introduction, 104. 
 
 „ tree, 82. 
 
 „ tree, cultivation of, 104. 
 
 „ houses, 104. 
 
 ., substitutes for, 106. 
 Coffea arabica, 82. 
 
 „ liberica, 83. 
 Cogolin, 173. 
 C'ola acuminata, 84. 
 Cold-cream, 322. 
 Coldirodi, 4, 384, 392, 393. 
 Colomars, 296, 396. 
 Colonia Octavianoruni, 176. 
 Colour of the sky, 286. 
 
 „ of the sea, 284. 
 
 „ of Marine Algae, 413. 
 Coluber Aesculapii, 402. 
 Convolvulus althaeoides (Fig. p. 
 
 119), 148. 
 Copernicia cerifera, 32. 
 Coquero, 110. 
 
 Coriaria myrtifolia, (Fig. p. 125), 98. 
 Corn-flowers, 145. 
 Corniche, Route dc /a, 115. 
 Corsica, 2, 3, 
 Coronilla emerus, 355. 
 Cork, 164. 
 
 „ cambium, 164. 
 
 „ carpet, 167. 
 
 „ formation of, 165. 
 
 „ injuries in bark. 164. 
 
 „ method of obtaining, 164. 
 
 _ industrv, 162, 170. 
 
 Cork Oak. 161. 
 
 „ woods, 161. 
 „ use of scraps of, 167. 
 „ use of in ancient times, 168. 
 Corks, making of, 162, 167. 
 Corylopsis du Japon, 299. 
 Corypha, 31. 
 Cosson, Ravine of, 297, 
 Cougourda, Caire, 296. 
 Cours d' Amour of Provence, 159. 
 Court of Love „ „ 159. 
 
 Crane's Bill, 38. 
 Croce della Mortola, 98. 
 Croisette, 223, 240, 
 Croix-des-Gardes, 248. 
 Crown of Thorns, 75. 
 Cucumber, scent of, 322. 
 Cumarin, 300. 
 Cumin, 304. 
 Curry, 79. 
 Cycads, 86. 
 Cycad leaves, 87. 
 Cypress, 42, 99, 408. 
 
 „ wood of, 368. 
 Cypresses, 34, 97, 367. 
 Cystoseira ericoides (Fig. p. 137). 
 Cystoseiras. 410, 416. 
 Cytinus Hypocistis (Fig. p. 157), 
 
 127, 147, 235. 
 Cytisus Adami, 63. 
 
 „ Laburnum, 63. 
 
 „ purpureus, 63. 
 
 „ triflorus (Fig. p. 131). 355. 
 
 Dacus Oleae, 14. 
 
 Dame's Violet. 234. 
 
 Dammara, 88. 
 
 Dao-fin, 364. 
 
 Daphne Gnidium (Fig. p. 163), 267. 
 
 Date Palm, 24. 
 
 „ „ hybrid with Phoenix 
 
 canariensis, 30. 
 
432 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Date Palm, treatment of, 26. 
 
 „ „ Christian, 26. 
 
 „ „ cultivation of, 28. 
 
 „ „ fruits, 28. 
 
 „ „ development of, 29. 
 
 „ „ Jewish, 26. 
 
 „ „ canary, 30. 
 
 „ „ in the United States, 
 
 280. 
 
 „ „ uses of, 26, 32. 
 
 Datura sanguinea, "7- 
 Deipnosophists, 54. 
 Deiva, Val di, 3//. 
 Delesseria Hypoglossum (Fig. p. 
 
 169), 416, 418. 
 Delphini Portus, 364. 
 Demasclage, 164. 
 Diamonds, weight of, 80. 
 Dianthus caryophyllus flore pleno, 
 
 143. 
 Diospjros, species of, 72. 
 „ Ebenum, 73. 
 
 „ Kaki, 72. 
 
 Diosma, fragrans, 47. 
 Dipterix odorata, 300. 
 Distillation, process of. 304. 
 Distilleries ambulantes, 318. 
 Docteurs en soupers, 114. 
 Domatia, 129. 
 Domitia, Via, 186. 
 Dorias, tombs of the, 360, 362. 
 Dramont, le Piton du, 193. 
 Drehrohre, 39. 
 Dwarf Palm, 30. 
 
 Earth, Pliny's praise of the, 341. 
 
 East wind, 180. 
 
 Eau de Cologne, 318, 319. 
 
 Eau de la Reine de Hongrie, 319. 
 
 Ebony wood, 73. 
 
 Ecballium Elaterium, 236. 
 
 Echium frutescens, 66. 
 
 Egg-plant, 76. 
 
 Eilen Rock. 146. 
 
 Eleonore Louise, Chateau of, 244, 
 
 248. 
 Emilia, Via, 210. 
 Enfleurage, 306. 
 Entella, 375, 376. 
 Epicureans, 114. 
 Erica 133. 
 
 „ arborea (Fig. p. 175), 133. 
 Eriobotria japonica, 79. 
 Erythroxylon Coca, 111. 
 Escalle, Ravin d', 195. 
 Esterel Range (Fig. p. XI), 41, 
 119, 122, 180, 182. 
 „ roads, 185. 
 
 Ether, in perfumery, 305. 
 
 „ fumes, use of in forcing, 338. 
 Ethereal oils, 300. 
 
 „ „ extraction of, 304. 
 
 „ „ poisonous effects of, 
 
 323. 
 „ „ composition of, 324. 
 
 „ „ ozone in the air, 324. 
 
 Eucalyptus, 49. 
 
 „ amigdalina, height of, 
 
 49. 
 „ globulus, 49. 
 
 „ „ flower-cap of, 50. 
 
 „ „ extracts from, 50. 
 
 „ „ growth of, 50. 
 
 „ Gunni, 51. 
 
 Eucharius, St., 206. 
 Eugenol, 301. 
 Eugenia caryophyllata, III. 
 Euphorbia dendroides, 43, 130. 
 „ spinosa (Fig. p. 181), 
 
 130, 188. 
 Euphorbias, 94, 187, 194. 
 „ shrubby, 43. 
 
 Eygulf, St., see Aigulf. 
 Eza, 117. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 433 
 
 Fat, in perfumery. 304; 
 Fat oils, 303. 
 i^^emale Cork, 162, 165. 
 Fennel, Giant, 78. 
 I'^east of Tabernacles, 2", 35. 
 Fereol, He St., 236, 237. 
 Ferula communis, 78. 
 nodirtora, 227. 
 „ Scorodosma, 78. 
 „ Legends of, 78. 
 Festival bouquets of the Jews, 27, 
 Fichi d'India, 100. 
 Ficus Carica, 269, 275. 
 hirta. 278. 
 „ Ruminalis, 269. 
 Fieschi. 376. 
 Fifth Journey, 337. 
 Figs, 270, 271. 
 Fig, pollination of, 272, 273. 
 
 „ Italian, 272, 274. 
 
 „ value as food, 276. 
 
 „ parthenogenesis, 278. 
 
 „ Smyrna, 273, 274. 
 
 „ „ in the United States, 
 
 275, 279. 
 
 „ tree, 34, 99, 269. 
 
 „ » Jr^ Germany, 271. 
 
 „ „ propagation of, 274. 
 
 „ „ wild, 279. 
 
 „ varieties of, 273, 275. 
 
 „ „ „ near Nice, 276. 
 
 „ Wasps, 272. 
 "Fig informers'", 276. 
 Fig-marigold, 40. 
 First Journey, 1 . 
 
 Flower-growing at Antibes, 1 42. 
 
 „ „ at Grasse, 325. 
 
 Flowers, perfume of at different 
 
 times of day, 321. 
 Forcing, 338. 
 Forum Julii. 176. 
 I'ossan, vallev of. 33, 
 
 Fourcroya, duration of, 245. 
 
 „ longaeva, 245. 
 
 Fourcro\as, 94. 
 Fourth Journey, 265. 
 Fraxinetum, 174. 
 Freesias, 81. 
 
 Freinet, La (Jarde. 173, 174. 
 Frejus, 176, 177? 178. 
 Fruits, European, in the United 
 
 States, 2S0. 
 Fruttuoso, San, 354, 357, 360. 
 
 „ Abbey of, 362. 
 „ „ legend of, 361. 
 
 Gaillarde, La, 175. 
 Galactites tomentosa (Fig. p. 187). 
 Gandarena, Gola di, 221. 
 (raraviin, 38, 101, 289, 294. 
 
 H6tel d'ltalie, 101, 282. 
 moonlight at, 282, 
 Garland of Justification, 71. 
 Garlands, use of in ancient times 
 
 at banquets, 135, 330. 
 Garlic, Oil of 
 Garigue, 123. 
 Gattieres, 296. 
 Gaultheria procumbens, 300. 
 Gelas, Cima di, 322. 
 Genista acanthoclada, 48, 128. 
 
 „ ferox, 138. 
 
 „ monosperma, 48. 
 Geranium oil, 315. 
 Germander, 39. 
 Giant Feimel, 78. 
 Ginger, 114. 
 Giranda, Cima. 296. 
 Gladioli, 143. 
 
 Gladiolus segetum (Fig. p. 193). 16. 
 (jlaucium luteum (Fig. p. 201), 236. 
 Gleditschia, 75. 
 Globularia Alypum (Fig. p. 207), 
 
 134. 
 
434 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Glow-worm, 291, 
 Golden Isles, 153, 
 Gorbio, 35, 
 
 „ Sanatorium of, 268. 
 
 „ valley of, 34, 268. 
 
 „ Avealth of flowers, 35. 
 Gounod, Charles, 182, 
 Gourmand, 114. 
 
 Grand d'Aussy, Le, 103, 105, 108. 
 Grape Hyacinth, 14. 
 Gfassc, 297. 
 
 „ railway from Nice to, 295. 
 Grass-wrack, 4 1 0. 
 
 balls of, 412. 
 Grimaldi, village of, 98. 
 Grimaud, 174. 
 Gromolo valley, 367. 
 Guava, 71. 
 
 jelly, 72. 
 
 Hadassah, 28. 
 Halimeda, 416. 
 
 „ Opuntia (Fig. p. 221). 
 
 Hanbury Gardens, 44, 
 
 , „ visiting days of, 44, 
 
 Harlequin, 195. 
 Harun, Saracen, chief, 37. 
 Headache, remedies for, 302. 
 Heaths, Tree, 133, 186, 267. 353, 
 
 354, 367. 
 Helianthemum, 128, 
 Helichrysum angustifolium, 353, 
 
 „ Stoechas (Fig, p, 227), 
 
 135, 353. 
 Heliotrope, 5, 39, 301. 
 Heliotropin, 301. 
 Heliotropium grandiflorum, 301. 
 
 J, peruvianum, 301. 
 
 Heraclea Cacabaria, 169, 
 Herbata, 103. 
 Herculea, Via, 222. 
 Hesperis, 234. 
 
 Holly, 195. 
 Honey soap, 316. 
 Honeysuckle. 191. 
 Honorat. He St., 217. 228, 229, 
 232, 234, 
 
 „ 51 T. printing press, 
 
 235. 
 
 „ » n monastery, 234. 
 
 Honoratus, St„ 206. 229, 234. 
 
 r, „ remains of, 231, 
 
 „ „ legend of, 232, 
 
 Hottentot's Fig, 138, 
 Hungarian water, 319. 
 Hyacinth. Roman. 143. 
 Hycres, 150, 152, 153, 156. 
 
 „ Islands of, 153. 
 Hybridization by grafting, 62, 64. 
 
 Iberis umbellata. 192. 
 Ilex Aquifolium, 195. 
 
 „ paraquayensis, 84. 
 Immortelles, 135. 
 Indicum, 86. 
 Indigo. 86. 
 
 „ how obtained, 86. 
 
 Indigofera Dosua, 86. 
 
 jf tinctoria, 85. 
 
 Intarsiatore, 390. 
 Inula viscosa (Fig. p. 239), 351. 
 Irises, Cape, 81. 
 Iris, rootstock of, 302, 307. 
 
 „ florentina, 302. 
 
 „ germanica, 191, 
 
 ^ Sussiana, 145, 
 Iron Mask, 223, 225. 
 
 , 302, 
 Islette, L', at the Cap d'Antibes, 
 136, 408. 
 „ „ vegetation of the, 408. 
 
 Italy, former appearance of, 100. 
 Italienische Stechwinde, 134, 
 Ixias, 81, 143, 145. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 435 
 
 Japanese medlar, 79. 
 
 ., wax, 73. 
 
 Jasmine, Oil of, 303. 
 
 „ plantations of, 319. 
 
 Jasmine pomade, 320. 
 Jasminuni fruticans (Fig, p. 233), 
 
 grandiflorum, 320. 
 
 Sambac, 157. 
 Jeannet, St.. 296. 
 Jewish incense, 85. 
 John's, St., Bread, 80. 
 Johannisbrot, 80. 
 Jonon, 302, 307. 
 Jonquil, 143, 308. 
 Jouan les Pins, 252. 
 
 „ Golfe, 217, 252. 
 Joves' beard, 39. 
 Judas tree, 38. 
 Jujubes, 75. 
 Juniper, 43. 
 Juniperus communis, 355. 
 
 oxycedrus (Fig. p. 245), 
 134. 188, 354. 
 
 Kat, 84, 102. 
 Kaki fruits, 72. 
 
 . I5gs, 72. 
 Kaneel, 69. 
 Karr, Alphonse, l79. 
 Keratameli, 80. 
 Kerateia, 80. 
 Kermes Oak. 132. 
 
 cochineal, 132. 
 Kola-nut, 84, 102. 
 
 Labdanum, 127. 
 Laburnum, 63. 
 Lacquer, Japanese, 73. 
 Ladanum, 127. 
 La Mortola, see Mortola. 
 Lampvris noctiluca, 291. 
 Laranja, 59. 
 
 La Rochefoucauld.Villa, at Cannes, 
 
 248. 
 Laser, 79. 
 
 Laurentius Bonhomme, 206. 
 Laurel (Fig. p. 251), 66, 69. 
 „ aspergillum, 67, 68. 
 „ as sacred plant, 66. 
 „ groves, 67. 
 „ superstitions about, 67. 
 
 twigs, 68, 395. 
 „ use in kindling fire, 68. 
 „ in symbolism, 67- 
 Laurus nobilis (Fig. p. 251), 66, 
 
 99, 395. 
 Laurustinus, 48, 191. 
 Lavagna, 375. 
 Lavandou, 166. 
 Lavandula spica, 317. 
 
 „ Stoechas (Fig. p. 257), 
 
 126, 153, 166, 316. 
 ., vera, 317- 
 
 Lavatera arborea (Fig. p. 263), 148. 
 „ maritima(Fig, p. 271),43. 
 
 Lavender, 124, 126, 153, 166, 267, 
 316. 
 ., -oil, 316. 
 
 Lecanium Ilicis, 132. 
 Lecidia, 136. 
 Lemonade, 56. 
 Lemon, 34, 99. 
 
 „ tree, introduction of, 55. 
 „ groves, 34. 
 Lemons and Oranges grafted on 
 
 same stock, 64. 
 Lemons, antiseptic properties of, 
 56. 
 „ influence of cold on, 260. 
 ,, oil of, 310. 
 
 „ symbolic meanings of, 57. 
 „ tiade in, 390. 
 
 „ with thick rind, 54. 
 
 ,, sweet. 61. 
 
 18 
 
436 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Lemon-grass oil, 303, 315. 
 
 Lentiscus, 356. 
 
 Lentisque, Col, 195. 
 
 Lerlna, Island, 229. 
 
 Lerins, lies de, 119, 209, 21", 223, 
 
 233, 237, 241. 
 Lero, island of, 231. 
 Leucoion, 234. 
 Levante, Riviera di, XI 
 
 _ _ boundaries 
 
 of, 3/9. 
 
 „ » V geology of, 
 
 379. 
 
 , r, „ plants of, 
 
 379. 
 L' Eveque, Col, 205. 
 Levkojen, 234. 
 Lichens, 134, 136. 
 Life in the Ocean depths, 414. 
 Light, absorbtion of by water, 412, 
 
 „ in the Ocean depths, 413. 
 
 „ desinfecting powers of, 249. 
 Lighthouse of Antibes, 147. 
 Lightning striking trees, 68. 
 Ligurian coast, former condition 
 
 of, 344. 
 Lily-of-the-Valley, perfume of, 302. 
 Lime juice, 56. 
 Limette, 61. 
 
 Limestone-loving plants, 162. 
 Limodorum abortivum, 192. 
 "Limandiers", 56. 
 Linalool, 302. 
 Linoleum, 167. 
 "Lion de Mer", 180, 
 "Lion de Terre", 180. 
 Lipia citriodora, see Verbena tri- 
 
 phylla. 
 Liquidambar, species of, 85. 
 ,, orientalis, 85. 
 
 Livistona, species of, 32. 
 ,, australis, 30, 32. 
 
 Livistona, chinensis, 32. 
 
 Li?ard-snake, 402, 
 
 Lonicera implexa (Fig. p. 271), 
 
 191, 356. 
 Lotophagi, 74. 
 Lotos trees, 74. 
 Lotos in ancient times, 74. 
 ,, blue, 71. 
 ,, Lybian, 74. 
 ,, of the Hindoos. 74. 
 Lotus ornithopodioides (Fig.p.283), 
 
 135. 
 Loup, George of, 297. 
 Luciferase, 293. 
 Luciferin, 293. 
 
 Luminous Bacteria, 291, 292. 
 ,, organisms of the sea, 
 
 291. 
 Luni, 377. 
 Luxuries and Stimulants, their 
 
 origin, 102. 
 Lybian Lotus, 74. 
 
 Macchia, 354, 367, 370, 3/3, 379. 
 
 Maceration with liquid fat, 304. 
 
 Macha del Olivo. 14. 
 
 Magna, 379. 
 
 Maiden-hair fern, 35. 
 
 Mala Citria, 53. 
 
 Male cork. 162. 
 
 Malinfernet. 194, 195, 
 
 Malpay, 185, 187- 
 
 Malvastrum capense, 137, 
 
 Mallows, 43. 
 
 Mandarins, 60. 
 
 ,, their introduction, 61. 
 
 oil of, 303. 
 Mangifera Indica, 73. 
 Mango tree, 7^- 
 Maquis, 123, 187, 194, 227, 
 
 ,, on the Cap d'Antibes, 
 
 123. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 437 
 
 Maquis near Mentone. 266. 
 Marco Polo, 115. 
 Margherita, Santa, 365. 
 Marguerite, He Salnte, 119, 223, 
 
 231. 
 Marine plants, 409. 
 Marine Algae, 409. 
 
 ,. ,, richness of form, 
 
 415. 
 „ „ collecting, 417. 
 
 ,, ,, drying of, 417. 
 
 Maritime Alps, (Fig. p. XI), 4, 7. 
 396. 
 „ ,, summits of, 296. 
 
 Maritime Pine, 138, 175, 185. 
 Markgraf, 93, 106, 109. 
 Marrons de Lyons, 1 66. 
 Martin, Cap, 253. 
 
 fishing at. 256. 
 Hotel, 254, 257. 
 climate of, 259. 
 moonlight at, 261. 
 storm from the north. 
 
 263. 
 Olive trees at, 259. 
 shore at, 254. 
 Mastics. 128. 
 Mastic Pistachia, 128. 
 Mate, 84, 102. 
 Mattress Grass-wrack, 411. 
 Mattioli, 224. 
 Mattarana, 377- 
 Matthiola incana, (Pig. p. 289), 
 
 234. 
 Maure, La, 219. 
 
 Maures, Montagnes des. 152, 160. 
 175. 
 ., geology 
 of, 160. 
 „ „ „ orography 
 
 of, 160. 
 Maurettes, 158. 
 
 Maxime. Ste., 174. 
 Median Apple, 53. 
 Medicago arborea, 138. 
 Mediterranean, colour of, 284. 
 „ saltness of, 287. 
 
 „ sea bathing, 286. 
 
 „ tides of, 287. 
 
 „ its temperature, 
 
 286. 
 its depth, 286. 
 Medlars, Japanese. 79. 
 Medusae, luminous, 291. 
 shoal of, 364. 
 Melianthus major, 137. 
 Melissa officinalis, 304. 
 JMentha piperita, 304. 
 Menthol, 302. 
 Mentone, 33. 
 
 „ cemetery of, 42. 
 
 „ from Pont St. Louis 
 
 (Fig. p. 265), 38, 40. 
 Mescal, 246. 
 Mescla, La, 398. 
 Mesembryanthemum acinaciforme, 
 40, 138. 
 edule, 138. 
 Methyl salicilate, 300. 
 "Midshipman's Butter", 70. 
 Mignonette, 5, 143, 145. 
 Mimusops Schimperi, 71- 
 Mistral, 101, 118, 151. 152, 170, 
 
 418. 
 Molluscs, phosphorescent, 293. 
 Monk's pepper, 171. 
 Moneglia, 378. 
 Mont Agel, 117. 
 Monte Carlo, 117, 255, 258. 
 Monte di Portofino, from Nervi 
 
 (Fig. p. 337). 
 Monte Nero, 2, 3, 4. 
 Mont Vinaigre. 183. 
 Moon, Pliny on tlie, 283. 
 18* 
 
438 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Moonlight, 261, 283. 
 Moricandia arvensis (Fig, p. 295), 
 
 98. 
 Mortola, La, 44. 
 
 „ „ climatic conditions 
 
 of, 45. 
 „ „ climbing plants at, 
 
 96. 
 „ „ gardens of, 45. 
 
 „ Palazzo Orengo, 44, 
 
 94. 
 „ Pergola, 96. 
 „ „ Pine trees, 86. 
 
 „ „ visiting days, 44. 
 
 ,, „ wealth of plants, 46. 
 
 Mougins, 220. 
 Muse Bauer, 303. 
 Muscari comosum, 14. 
 Musk, 300, 303. 
 Myristica fragrans, 113. 
 Myrrh, 85. 
 
 „ of the Egyptians, 85. 
 
 Myrtle, 27, 99, 124. 126, 134, 254. 
 
 Nagarunga, 59. 
 
 Naphae, Aqua, 309. 
 
 Napoule, Golfe de la, 21/. 
 
 Naranzi, 59. 
 
 Narcissi, 143. 
 
 Narcissus Jonquilla, 308. 
 
 „ poeticus, 191. 
 
 , Tazetta (Fig. p. 301), 
 
 16, 143. 
 Nardus Indica, 31/. 
 „ Italica, 317- 
 Narindj, 59. 
 Narunj, 59. 
 Nasca, 351. 
 Nebeg, 75. 
 Neige de Corse, 261. 
 Nero, Capo, 392. 
 Neroli, essence of, 309. 
 
 Neroli, oil of, 309. 
 
 „ -portugal oil, 310. 
 Nervi 338. 
 
 „ climate of, 346. 
 
 „ Eden Hotel, 339. 
 
 „ flower growing at, 348. 
 
 „ marine parade, 339, 340, 
 351. 
 
 „ rise of, 347. 
 
 „ rocks on the shore at, 346. 
 
 „ shelter from the wind, 346. 
 
 „ Villa Clementine, 352. 
 "Nettle tree", 74. 
 Nelumbium speciosum, 74. 
 Nicotiana wigandioides, 77- 
 Nightshade, species of, 76. 
 Nitophyllum punctatum (Fig. p. 
 
 307), 416, 418. 
 JVice, 115, 117, 393. 
 
 ,. flower market of, 394. 
 
 „ Palm Sunday at, 395. 
 Notre Dame de Bon -Port, 119, 
 
 121, 401, 403. 
 Nutmeg 112, 113. 
 „ tree, 113, 
 Nymphaea coerulea, 71- 
 ^ Lotus, 74. 
 
 Oaks, dedicated to the God of 
 Thunder, 69. 
 
 „ evergreen, 175, 195. 
 
 „ striking by lightning, 68. 
 Octavianus, Tower of, 116. 
 Olbia, 153, 158. 
 Oleander, 171, 384. 
 Oleaster, 134. 
 Olibanum, 85. 
 Olive groves, 7, 9, 259. 
 
 „ „ in the moonlight. 7. 
 
 Olive oil, 9. 
 Olives, harvest of, 8. 
 Olive tree, 7, 98, 259. 
 
 ^' 
 
 na 
 
 
INDEX. 
 
 439 
 
 Olive tree, time of llouering, S. 
 „ n conditions of soil 
 
 necessary for, 13. 
 „ „ manuring of, 13. 
 
 „ „ fruits of, 8. 
 
 ^ , palaeontological dis- 
 
 coveries of, 12. 
 „ V trunks, ;. 
 ,, „ origin of, 12. 
 
 „ distribution of, 12. 
 „ „ cultivation of, 8. 
 
 y, trees, old, 400. 
 „ „ as boundary marks, 12, 
 
 „ ,, shrubby. 134. 
 
 Oil, fly, 14. 
 „ for salves, 305. 
 „ industry, 10. 
 Oils, ethereal. 303. 
 
 „ fat, 303. 
 Ollioules, 143. 
 Ophrys apifera, 192. 
 „ aranifera, 192. 
 „ Bertolonii (Fig. p. 313), 
 
 15, 407. 
 Opuntia tunicata, 94, 160. 
 Opuntias, 94, 100. 
 Orange, 34, 58, 60. 99. 
 „ blossom, 126, 309. 
 „ groves at Hyeres, 153. 
 
 oil, 303, 309. 
 Jericho, 60. 
 Oranges, influence of cold on, 
 260. 
 ^ and Lemons, grafted on 
 
 same stock, 64, 
 Orange tree, ancient cultivation 
 of. 58. 
 „ „ as stock for graf- 
 
 ting, 58. 
 ^ „ ethereal oil, 57. 
 
 Orange tree, bitter fruited, 55, 57- 
 sweet-fruited, 58. 
 
 Orange trees on Mount Etna, 60. 
 Orange trees at Hyeres, 154, 157. 
 Orange-tip, 142, 194. 
 Orchids, 14, 35, 192. 
 Oreodaphne californica, 70. 
 O^pcdalctti, 39 1 . 
 Osteospermum moniliferum, 137- 
 
 Padina pavonia (P'ig. p. 319), 416. 
 
 Paganini, 237> 
 
 Palazzo Orengo, 44, 96. 
 
 „ „ view from, 96. 
 
 Palm, 28. 99. 
 
 Sunday, 25, 28, 393, 395. 
 „ fronds, 25. 87, 394. 
 Palmarosa oil, 313. 
 Palms, 5, 23, 30. 
 
 „ at Hyeres, 156. 
 ,, ornamental work with, 32. 
 Pampelmuusse tree, 57- 
 Pampelmousses, 55. 
 Panama wood, 79. 
 Paradise Apples, 27, 55. 
 Parthenogenesis, 278. 
 Passerina hirsuta (Fig. p. 325), 
 
 130. 
 Patchouli, 304. 
 Peach, 34. 
 Pear tree, 34. 
 Perfume, in France, 334. 
 history of, 326. 
 „ luxurious use of, 333. 
 
 ,, misuse of, 329. 
 
 ,, use of, 325. 
 
 manufactories, 304. 
 ,, in ancient times, 326. 
 
 industry, 299. 
 of flowers at different 
 times of day, 321. 
 Perfumes, 300, 303. 
 Pelargoniums, 5, 34, 42, 47, 383, 
 384. 
 
440 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Pelargonium capitatum, 315. 
 
 „ odoratissimum, 47, 
 
 315. 
 ,, peltatum, 38. 
 
 „ roseum, 47, 315. 
 
 Pepper, 7^. 
 
 „ currency, 1 1 4. 
 
 ,, history of, 113. 
 
 Peppermint, 304. 
 Pepper tree, 42, 73, 138. 
 Persea of the Egyptians, 70. 
 
 ,, gratissima, 70. 
 Petigrain oil, 310. 
 Petrol-ether in perfumery, 306. 
 Peutinger'sche Tafel, 211. 
 Peyssonnelia Squamaria (Fig. 
 
 p. 331). 416. 
 Phillyrea, 267. 
 
 ., angustifolia (Fig. p.343), 
 
 133, 267. 
 Phoenix canariensis, 30. 
 ., dactylifera, 30. 
 
 ,, melanocarpa, 30. 
 
 Pholas dactylus, 293. 
 Phosphorescence of the sea, 290, 
 
 291. 
 Phosphorescent bacteria, 291, 294. 
 fish, 292. 
 „ fungi, 290. 
 
 meat, 292. 
 „ organisms, 290. 
 
 Photinia serrulata, 79. 
 ,, japonica, 79. 
 Phyllodes, 144. 
 Phyllosiphon Arisari, see Arum 
 
 Arisarum. 
 Pic d'Aurele, see Aurele. 
 Pigeonnier, 192. 
 Pilae marinae, 412. 
 Pines, 99, 138, 
 
 „ very large, 173. 
 Pine woods, 147. 
 
 Pinks, 5, 143. 
 
 ,, Genoese, 348. 
 ,, green, 145. 
 Pinus halepensis, 138. 
 
 Pinaster, 138. 
 Piper Betle, 31. 
 
 nigrum, 73- 
 Pistachia Lentiscus (Fig. p. 349), 
 
 128. 
 Pistachias, 124, 187, 254. 
 Pittosporum Tobira, 48. 
 Piuma, Villa, 368. 
 Plage d'Aurele, see Aurele. 
 Plants indicating nature of soil, 
 
 163. 
 Plankton, 285, 291, 
 Plant-life in the sea, 412. 
 Plums, 34. 
 Poets' Narcissus, see Narcissus 
 
 Poeticus. 
 Pogostemon Patchouli, 304. 
 Polyanthes tuberosa, 321. 
 Polygala myrtifolia, 137. 
 Poisonous properties of ethereal 
 
 oils, 323. 
 Poma aurantia, 59. 
 Pomade, manufacture of, on a 
 
 small scale, 312. 
 Pomeranzca. 59. 
 Pont St. Louis. 38, 40, 43. 
 ,, „ ,, ravine, 43. 
 Porphyry, blue, 192. 
 red, 192. 
 „ of the Esterels, 183. 
 
 Porto-fin, 364. 
 Portojino, 364. 
 
 „ Madonna del Capo, 
 
 365. 372. 
 „ sea trip to, 363, 
 
 „ promontory of (Fig. 
 
 p. 337), 339, 352. 
 Portogallo, 59. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 441 
 
 Posidonia oceanica, 411. 
 „ balls of, 412. 
 
 Prehistoric remains near Mentone, 
 
 294. 
 Trimeurs of Hyeres, 156. 
 Primula sinensis and obconica, 40". 
 Pritchardia filifera, 30, 31, 32. 
 Procession caterpillars, 139. 
 
 „ moth of, 140. 
 
 Profichi, 277. 
 Prosper Alpinus, 104. 
 Provincia Romana, 179. 
 Pseudo-Nardus, 317. 
 Psidium. species of, 71. 
 Psoralea bituminosa (Fig. p. 355), 
 
 370. 
 Pteronia incana, 47. 
 Ptychotis Ajowan, 302. 
 Pulque, 246. 
 
 Quercus coccifera(Fig. p.359), 132. 
 
 Ilex (Fig. p. 363), 132. 
 Quillaja Saponaria, 79. 
 Quinces, 60. 
 Quinoa plant. 1 10. 
 
 Ranunculi. 143. 
 Rapallo, 365. 
 
 „ -Chiavari, mountain road 
 of, 374. 
 Raphael. St.. 176, 179. 
 Rattan, palm, 88. 
 Red Algae, 410, 414. 
 Remo, San, see San Remo. 
 Reseda perfume, 316, 
 Rhamnus, 68, 26/. 
 
 „ Alaternus (Fig. p. 367), 
 
 129, 254, 354. 
 Rhodocera Cleopatra (Fig. p. 143), 
 
 142. 
 Rhododendron, 84. 
 Rhus succedanea, 73. 
 
 Rhus vernicifera, 73, 74. 
 Ricinus communis, 287. 
 
 oil, 288. 
 Riomaggiore, 381. 
 Roccabruna, 34, 115, 268. 
 Roccolo, 358. 
 Rock-rose, 128. 
 Roja, \'alley of the, 221. 
 Rolandine. 276. 
 Romerages, 241. 
 Romero Santo, 31/. 
 Romolo valley, 384. 
 Rosa sempervirens, 356. 
 
 „ Sinica, 40. 
 Rose bushes, evergreen, 356. 
 Roses, 34. 38. 
 
 „ plantations of, 152, 314. 
 y, in perfumery. 312. 
 oil of, 312. 
 Rosemary, 43, 124, 125, 147. 
 254, 356. 
 „ oil of, 316, 318. 
 
 Rosmarinus officinalis (Fig. p. 371), 
 Route de la Corniche, 115. 
 Rue, 254. 
 
 Ruscus aculeatus, 133. 
 Ruta bracteosa, 236, 352. 
 
 Saccharum, 91. 
 
 „ officinarum. 92. 
 
 Safrol, 301. 
 
 Safety lamps. Living, 294. 
 Sainte ampoule, 17. 
 Sailing at Monte di Portofino, 363. 
 Salves. 305. 
 Salicylaldehyd, 300. 
 Salvatore, San, 375. 
 Salvia albocoerulea, 47. 
 
 ., horminoides (Fig. p. 3/5), 
 147. 
 Sandarac, (ium, t^2. 
 Sandal-wood, 303. 30S. 336. 
 
442 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Sandal-wood, tree, 303. 
 Sa/i Remo, 4, 382, 388. 
 „ ,, old town of, 386. 
 
 ., vegetation, 382. 
 Santalum album, 303. 
 Saponin, 79. 
 Saracen fortress. 1/4. 
 Sasso, 6. 
 
 Scheffel-palms, 23, 25, 392. 
 Schinus molle, "3. 
 Sea, changes of moods, 340. 
 „ colouring of, 284. 
 „ cause of its colour, 284. 
 „ luminous inhabitants of, 289, 
 
 291. 
 „ plants, 409. 
 „ phosphorescence of, 290. 
 „ storm, 140, 342. 
 „ urchins, eating of, 172. 
 „ weed, see Marine Algae. 
 „ Deep, fauna of, 415. 
 Second Journey, 151. 
 Selaginella denticulata (Fig. p. 379), 
 
 267. 
 Sense of smell, 324. 
 Serapias Lingua (Fig. p. 383), 16. 
 Sestri Levante, 365, 366. 
 
 climate of, 366. 
 Santa Anna, 373, 
 Telegrapho, 372. 
 Villa Piuma, 368. 
 Sina-apfel, 59. 
 Sinus Sambracitanus, 168. 
 Sirocco, 261, 289. 
 Sleet, 261. 
 Smilax aspera (Fig. p. 387), 134, 
 
 351. 
 Smyrna figs, 273, 2/4. 
 
 „ „ in the United States, 
 
 275, 279. 
 Smyrnium Olusatrum (Fig. p. 391), 
 227. 
 
 Snake at Cap d'Antibes, 402. 
 Solanum anthropophagorum, 76. 
 
 ,, Melongena, 76. 
 
 ., Warszewiczii, ']']. 
 
 Solution of ammonia in perfumery, 
 
 322. 
 Spanish cane, 88. 
 
 „ broom. 128. 
 
 ,, chestnut, 163. 
 Sparaxis tricolor, 81. 
 Spartium junceum (Fig. p. 395), 
 
 128. 408. 
 Spezia, 379, 382. 
 Sphacelaria scoparia (Fig, p. 399), 
 
 416. 
 Spices. 112, 114. 
 
 ,, monopoly of, 113. 
 Spirits of Hartshorn, 322. 
 Spring flowers, 14. 
 Spring growth of plants, 337, 338. 
 Spurge, 43, 130. 
 
 Bush, 43, 130, 379, 
 ,, shrubby, 43. 
 
 Squirting cucumber, 236. 
 Ssidr, 75, 
 Stecheiche. 195, 
 Sterculia acuminata, 84. 
 Stoechades, 153, 
 Stocks. 34, 142, 143, 234. 
 Storage of wines, 318. 
 Storax, 85. 
 Storm, 160. 
 
 „ from the north, 263. 
 Stimulants, their origin, 102. 
 Strada Nazionale, La Mortola, 97. 
 Strawberry tree, 130, 188, 353, 
 
 354. 
 Streptosolen, "n . 
 
 ,, Jamesoni, 39, 
 
 Strohblumen, 135, 
 Styrax officinalis, 85. 
 Sugar, Beet, 93. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 443 
 
 Sugar manufactories in Germanv, 
 94. 
 production of, 92. 
 refineries. 93. 
 Cane, 92. 
 
 ,, planting of, 92. 
 „ propagation of, 92. 
 „ distribution of. 92. 
 „ use of, 93. 
 Sunrise, 3. 
 Sunset, 148. 418. 
 Swallow-tail butterfiy. 142, 195. 
 Sycophant. 27b. 
 
 Tabashir. 90. 
 Taggia, 389. 
 
 its oil, 10. 
 Tamarisks, 138. 287. 
 Tamarix gallica, 28". 
 Tartarus, Scourge of, 128. 
 
 bush of, 48. 
 Tazettas, 16, 143. 
 Tea, 102. 
 
 its introduction, 102. 
 
 ,, -drinking, beginning of, 102. 
 
 ., plant, 82. 
 
 ., roses, 143. 
 Tecoma capensis, 4il. 
 Telephone, Bamboo, 89. 
 Tenda, Col di, 221, 222. 
 Tete de Chien, 41. 
 Teucrium fruticans. 39, 13/. 
 Thais polyxena (Fig. p. 195), 195. 
 Thein, 84. 
 Theobroma, 109. 
 
 „ Cakao. 10/. 
 
 Theobromin, 84, 104. 
 Thesmophoria, 171. 
 Third Journey, 215. 
 Thuja occidentalis, 368. 
 Thuret Gardens, 118, 146. 
 Thvme, 124, 126, 147. 
 
 Thyme, oil of, 316. 
 
 Thymol, 302. 
 
 Thyrsus, 78. 
 
 Tigullia, 364. 
 
 Tinee, La, 397. 
 
 Tomato, Cannibals', 76. 
 
 Tonka bean, 300. 
 
 Tonquin oil, 303. 
 
 Tourettes-sur-Loup, 297. 
 
 Tragopogon australis (Fig. p. 403), 
 
 407. 
 Trams, Electric, near Nice, 398. 
 Trayas, Le (Fig. p. 151), 198. 
 
 ^ „ dog, 198. 
 
 „ „ fishing at, 200. 
 
 „ Hotel, 198. 
 Tree Heath, see Heath. 
 Tree of Life, 368. 
 Tree frogs, 217. 
 Tritonia, 81. 
 
 Tropaeolum pentaphyllum. 81. 
 Trofez, St., 168, 170. 
 
 „ „ the saint, 169. 
 
 „ Hotel, 171. 
 Trumpet flower, 40. 
 Tschai, 103. 
 
 Tuberose, 157, 304, 321. 
 Tulipa Clusiana (Fig. p. 407), 16, 
 
 192. 
 Tulips, 192. 
 Turbie, La, 116. 
 Turris in via, 1 16. 
 
 Ulva, 410. 
 Umbellates. 77. 
 Umbelliferae, 77. 
 Umbrella Pine. 99. 
 Unedo, see Arbutus. 
 
 Valescure, 183. 
 Vallauris, 220, 222. 
 Vallecrocia, valley of, 7- 
 
444 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Vallis curans, 183. 
 
 Vanilla, 301, 304. 
 
 Var, Gorges of the, 397. 
 
 „ valley, 296. 
 Ventium, 29/. 
 Verbena triphylla, 315. 
 
 „ oil, 315. 
 Verde, Capo, 388. 
 Vetiver, 303. 
 
 Via Aurelia, 173, 186, 210, 211. 
 „ Domitia, 186. 
 „ Emilia, 210. 
 „ Herculea, 222. 
 Vial, Mont, 396. 
 Viburnum Tinus (Fig. p. 411), 48, 
 
 191. 
 Vicia Faba, 348. 
 Viegie de Peyssarin, 208. 
 Villepay, Lake of, 197. 
 Vilmorin-Andrieux, 406. 
 Vinaigre, Mont, 183, 189. 
 Vine, the, 16, 18, 99. 
 „ distribution of, 19. 
 „ time of flowering, 18. 
 „ palaeontological discoveries 
 
 of, 18. 
 „ methods of cultivation, 22. 
 „ origin of, 18. 
 „ zone of, 17. 
 Violet, Le Czar, 156. 
 „ de Parma, 305. 
 „ crops of, at Grasse, 305. 
 , -fields, 156. 
 „ perfume, 305. 
 „ root, 302, 307. 
 Violets, 34, 145. 
 
 Violets, in ancient times, 234. 
 Vitex Agnus-castus, 171. 
 Vitis vinifera, 18. 
 
 Wallflovi^er, 34, 142, 143, 234,383. 
 
 Wax palm, 32. 
 
 Whitethorn, 131. 
 
 Willow, 27. 
 
 Wine, age of in ancient times, 20. 
 
 „ Amphorae, 23. 
 
 „ Pasteurisation of, 19. 
 
 „ Pliny on, 20, 21. 
 
 „ casks, 23. 
 
 „ Virgil on, 21. 
 
 „ substances added to, in 
 ancient times, 20. 
 
 y, "smoking" of, 19. 
 Wine-growing in Italy, 23. 
 Wigandia caracasana, 39, 66, 
 
 383. 
 Wintergreen oil, 300. 
 Winter, landscape gardener, 25, 
 
 32, 392. 
 Woodruff, 300. ■ 
 
 Verba, 84. 
 
 Yellow-horned Poppy, 236, 
 Ylang-ylang, 303, 
 Yuccas, 94. 
 
 Zizyphus jujuba, 75. 
 
 „ Lotus, 75. 
 
 „ spina Christi, 75. 
 
 „ vulgaris, 75. 
 
 Zoagli, 365, 374. 
 Zostera marina, 410. 
 
^