Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2009 with funding from NCSU Libraries http://www.archive.org/details/pineplantationsoOObrow L^C PINE PLANTATIONS ON THE SAND-WASTES OF FRANCE. COMPILED BY JOHN CROmiBIE BROWN, LL.D., Formerly Government Botanist at the Cape of Good Hope, and Professor of Botany in the South African College, Capetown, Felloio of the Royal Geographical Society, Felloio of the Linnean Society, and Honorary Vice-President of the African Institute of Paris, etc. EDINBURGH: OLIVER & BOYD, TWEEDDALE COURT. LONDON : SIMPKLN, MARSHALL, AND CO. 18 78. Kirkcaldy : Crawford & Walkeb, Peintbrs. [All rights of Translation and Reproduction are reserved.] CONTENTS AND ARGUMENT. PAGE. Index to Authorities Cited, v Preface, ------ — v ii States circumstances in which the volume is published. Chapter I. — Appearances Presented by Plantations on Drift- Sand, ------- 1 Cites the appearance presented by plantations seen from the bell tower of the Cathedral at Antwerp (p. 1) ; and by vineyards in M£doc and the vicinity of Bourdeaux (p. 2); by Landes adjacent (p. 3) ; by Arcachon (p. 4), and the pignadas in the vicinity (p. 5). Chapter II. — Appearances Presented by Landes adjacent to the Pine Plantations on Gascony, ... 9 There are given Mangin's description of the Landes (p. 9), and of the Dunes (p. 13), of Dartmoor (p. 17), as corresponding to scenes in Brittany (p. 18) ; of the swampy land of Montoir resembling the Fen country of England (p. 21) ; and there follow notices of what has been done to reclaim the adjacent sand-wastes (p. 24). Chapter III. — Legislation in Regard to the Planting of the Landes with Trees, - - - - 27 There are given excerpts from the laws issued on 13th Messklor an IX (2nd July, 1801) ; on 3rd Jour compliimentaire, an IX (p. 27) ; 12th July, 1808, 14th December, 1810 (p. 28) ; 5th February, 1817 (p. 29) ; and 29th April, 1862 (p. 30). Chapter IV. — Literature Relative to the Arrest and Cultivation of Drift-Sands in France, - - - - 32 Works in French are specified (p. 32) ; works in German (p. 33) ; and works published in Hungary, America, and England are referred to (p. 34). iv CONTENTS. Chapter V. — Culture of the Maritime Pine on the Landes of Gascony, ------ 36 The preparation of the ground is described (p. 36) ; the zone ad- jacent to the sea is described (p. 37) ; clayonnages (p. 39) ; sowing and planting (p. 40) ; account given by M. Bagneris (p. 42) ; and by M. Boitel (p. 45) ; thinning (p. 46) ; pruning (p. 48). Chapter VI. — Exploitation of the Pine Plantations of Gascony, 51 Account of the exploitation of resin, by Bagneris (p. 51) ; of the manufacture of charcoal, by Boitel (p. 57), and that of charcoal dust (p. 63) ; products exhibited in English museums (p. 66). Chapter VII. — Sylviculture on the Landes of La Sologne, - 69 Account of the Landes of La Sologne (p. 70) ; of their soil (p. 72) ; woods (p. 74) ; culture of pine woods (p. 75) ; reclaiming land by plantation (p. 80). Chapter VIII. — Inland Sand-Wastes, and Sand-Wastes on the Coast, ....... 81 Differences seen in sand-wastes (p. 81) ; Wessely's account of sand- wastes on the coast (p. 82) ; account of the impermeable alios by M. Faye (p. 84) ; capillary attraction of sand (p. 86) ; absorption and retention of moisture (p. 8S) ; absorption of vegetable nutri- ment (p. 90) ; peat lands in sand-wastes (p. 92) ; composition of sand (p. 92) ; sand-wastes of the tertiary formation (p. 96) ; woods on such sands (p. 97). Chapter IX. — Natural History and General Cidture of the Scotch Fir in France, - - - - - 100 Description of the Scotch fir by MM. Lorentz and Parade (p. 100) ; account of arboretum at Barres by the founder, M. Vilmorin (p. 103) ; his observation on the Scotch fir (pi mis sylvestrisj (p. 107) ; the Riga pine (p. 115) ; pine of Smolensk (p. 117) ; Wilna pine (p. 117) ; pine of Tschernigoff (p. 118) ; pine of Volhynia (p. 118) ; varieties of the Riga pine (p. 119) ; Scotch fir (p. 122) ; intermediate varieties (p. 123) ; instructions given in School of Forestry at Nancy in regard to the exploitation of the Scotch fir (p. 131) ; in regard to its economic uses (p. 137) ; and the collecting and preservation of its seed (p. 138), and sowing (p. 141). Chapter X. — Natural History and General Culture of the Maritime Pine in France, - - - - 143 CONTENTS. V Section I. — Commendations bestowed on the Maritime Pine, - 143 Commendation by M. Boitel (p. 143) ; by M. Samanos (p. 1-45) ; and by MM. Delamarre, Crinon, and others (p. 147). Section II. — General Culture and Exploitation of the Maritime Pine, 148 Instructions given at the School of Forestry at Nancy relative to its natural history (p. 149) ; its economic uses and mode of gemmage (p. 151) ; sowing (p. 152) ; exploitation (p. 15-4). Chapteb XI. — Diseases and Injurious Influences to which the Maritime Pine is subject, .... 157 Section I. — Choking by an Over-growth of Local Vegetation, - 157 Section II. — Destructive Ravages by Birds, and Squirrels, and Insects, - - - - - - 157 Mode of destruction (p. 157) ; accounts of lignivorous insects by M. Perris (p. 159) ; destruction of the chenille processlonaire (p. 161). Section III. — Destructive Conseqiiences following the Effects of Charcoal Burning, - - - - - 163 Evils pointed out by Professor Bagneris (p. 163), and accounted for by M. Boitel (p. 163). Section IV. — Destructive Ravages occasioned by the Mole, - 167 Natural history of the mole by M. Boitel (p. 167) ; destruction of moles (p. 169). Section V. — Destructive Ravages by Forest Fires, - - 170 Prevention of forest fires mentioned by M. Samanos (p. 170) ; by M. Bartro (p. 171) ; by M. Boitel (p. 171). INDEX TO AUTHORITIES CITED, Andresen, 86. Bagneris, 42, 51, 163. Bartro, 171. Baude, 1. Boitel, 37, 41, 45, 46, 51, 57, 63, 71, 74-79, 143, 157, 163, 167, 171. Chambray (Marquis), 159. Clave, 91, 98, 99. Cotta, 100. Courreges, 39, 40. C'rinon, 148. Dela- marre, 147. Edinburgh Review, 34. Faye, S4. Forcbhammer, 86. Grouven, 90. Haddington (Earl), 109. Hartig, 100, 138. Hauer, 93. Heyer, 88. Janin, 20. Javil, 66, 84. Kedzie, 34. Kerner, S9, 95. Laurent, 87. Lorentz, 100, 132. Mangin, 9, 13, 16, 21, 24, 70, 9S. Marchand, SS. .Marsh, 34, 86, 96. Mayer, S9. Nanquette, 135. Parade, 100, 139, 149. Perris, 159. Samanos, 51, 145, 170. Schuebler, 88, 89, 93, 94. Thurinann, 87. Vilmorin, 103-130, 157. Weld, 1, 2, 3, 5. Wessely, 82, 8S, 92, 99. PREFACE The preparation of this volume for the press was undertaken in con- sequence of a statement in the Standard and Mail, ' a Capetown paper, of the 22nd July, 1876, to the effect that in the estimates submitted to Parliament <£1,000 had been put down for the Cape Flats, it was supposed with a view to its being employed in carrying out planting operations as a means of reclaiming the sandy tracts beyond Salt River. In view of the success which has followed the planting of the Landes of Gascony and the Gironde with the maritime pine, it might seem that nothing now can be required in order to arrest and utilise drift- sands, but to plant them judiciously with that tree. But, happily, I may say, the failure of such plantations on the Landes of La Sologne comes to warn us against any such rash generalisation. And the observation of sand downs in Britain, and saud plains elsewhere, show that herbs, carices, reeds, and grasses have operated extensively in arresting effectually, and, according to their measures, in utilising what otherwise would have been barren and destructive sand- wastes. Looking at the subject generally, all that I consider established by the pine plantations on the sand-wastes of France is the practicability of arresting and utilising sand-drifts by means of plantations of trees. What has been accomplished there we may legitimately infer may be effected elsewhere, not necessarily by the same means, but by means as appropriate, if they can be discovex-ed. But while this may be all that is established there is much more suggested. And still more might be found to be suggested by a study of the whole of the sand-wastes of Europe, and of the natural history of sand, its composition, its formation, and its aggregation on the shore, in dunes, in drifts, in sand-wastes, and in sand plains, and of the various genera and species of plants growing upon it, and of planta- tions of broad-leaved trees which have succeeded in other conditions — the poplar, the willow, and the aspen, the elm, the elder, the ash, the acacia, the oak, the hazel, and the dogwood, the birch, and the wild pear. There has been prepared a twin volume, in which these subjects have been discussed. This volume was originally compiled in view of what seemed to be required at the Cape of Good Hope. It has been revised, and printed now, only as a contribution towards a renewed enterprise, to arrest and utilise sand-wastes which stretch from Table Mountain to the Hottentot Hollaud Mountains ; and additional information is forth- coming if it should be desired. Appended to reports of the Colonial Botanist for 1864 is a letter on grasses adapted to arrest drifting sand (pp. 99-102), and appended to report of the Colonial Botanist for 1865 is a letter on the arrest of drifting sand, and planting the same with trees (pp. 83-93). Haddington, 10th April, 1878. PINE PLANTATIONS ON THE SAND- WASTES OF FRANCE. CHAPTER I. Appearances Presented by Plantations on Drift Sands. Within the last eighty years much hag been accomplished in the ai'resting of Drift Sand, and in utilising Sand Wastes by a judicious combination of sylviculture and agriculture. " A spectator placed on the famous bell tower of the cathedral of Antwerp," says Baude in an article in the Revue des Deux Mondes, January, 1859, one of an interesting series of articles entitled Les Cotes de la Manche, " saw not long since on the opposite side of the Schelde only a vast desert plain ; now he sees a forest, the limits of which are confounded with the horizon. Let him enter within its shades. The supposed forest is but a system of regular rows of trees, the oldest of which is not yet forty years of age. These plantations have ameliorated the climate, which had doomed to sterility the soil where they are planted ; while the tempest is violently agitating their tops, the air a little below is still, and sands far more barren than the plateau of La Hague have been formed under their protection into fertile fields." A similar description of landscape effects, produced by the planting of the Landes of the Gironde in Gascony with pines occurs in Weld's tour through the Pyrenees. Writing of this district he says : — " Opposite to Blaye, and extend- ing for a considerable distance up and down the Gironde, is the M6doc district, unlovely in appearance, being a vast plain composed of stones and sand, the deposit probably of the river in long past ages. But no smiling valley, 1 Deep meadowed, happy, fair with orchard lawns, And bowery hollows crown' d with summer sea,' is so fruitful as is this seeming waste : for it is the nursing mother of those vines, which, stunted though they be, produce the far. A 2 APPEARANCE PRESENTED BY PLANTATIONS, famed claret grape. Who, ignorant of these facts, would suppose that an acre of Medoc laud is a fortune !" Writing of Bourdeaux, the capital port of the district, he says : — " Grand indeed is the water avenue to the great city of Bourdeaux. Flowing beneath the softly wooded heights of Floirac, the tawny Garonne, here upwards of 2,000 feet wide, sweeps in a semi-circle past handsome quays three miles long, bearing all kinds of crafts, from the jaunty felucca from the Mediterranean, to the stately India- man ; for the tide at Bourdeaux, though the city is seventy miles from the sea, rises twenty feet. Looking at all this beauty and com- mercial grandeur, I thought of our Thames, and what it might be if properly embanked and provided with capacious quays. " Long to be remembered is an afternoon which I spent at Floirac, where one of the great wine merchants resides. After an early dinner, consisting of many delicacies, we adjourned, ladies as well as gentlemen, to an arbour in the pleasure ground, situated at the edge of the wooded heights. Within the arbour a large table was covered with an endless variety of delicious fruits, all grown on the estate ; and while we sat round these abundant products of the rich south, the distant views, which are of the most exquisite nature, were illumed by a sunset of great glory. " On a day remarkable for an extra allowance of caloric — Bourdeaux is exceedingly hot in summer — I visited the far-famed claret vaults of Messrs Barton & Guestier. Oh, how delicious was the wine I tasted in these deliciously cool regions — tasted ! no, drank ; for it would have been nothing short of an insult to that rare old nestar to have acted according to the advice given when you enter the Loudon Dock wine vaults — taste but do not swallow. Here, within the cool precincts of the cellars, if you have the good fortune to be favoured by being allowed to taste famous vintages, you will be made aware how little, how very little, the middle classes really know what good claret is. The stuff which, impudently assuming that name, is generally our potion at a dinner party, is no more like the prime first growth clarets of Medoc than sloe juice aud brandy is genuine port; but when we remember that a hogshead of good claret, the produce of a first-rate vintage, frequently fetches a thousand francs on the spot, we, at least I, who am of the middle classes, can understand that the chance of making acquaintance with prime claret is very small. The more then, if you are a middle man, will you enjoy a tasting visit to the Bourdeaux claret vaults, and especially if you enter them after a lionising tour through streets baked with a temperature of about 90° weld's description of the landes. 3 . . . Lighted by huge wax caudles, I walked loug aud wonderingly through alleys liued by hogsheads, or barriques, as they are called. The value of these, as I was iuformed, was £120,000. There are generally 10,000 barriques in store, for the most part cob- webbed and venerable vessels emitting a peculiar aroma, something like that of new hay ; for your first-class claret requires to be kept many years before it is ripe for post-prandial honours." But sterile as seem the lands of the Medoc, where such treasures are produced, they come short in this respect of the appearance presented by the Landes of the Gironde, which have no such tales to tell of fruit and wine. " A few miles from Bourdeaux," he writes, " you enter the Landes, across which the line is carried to Bayonne. Nothing can be more dreary than these apparently interminable wastes. Your passage across them suggests ideas of the ocean, with this great difference however, that whereas the latter is rarely at rest, the vast tract of the Landes, comprising 600,000 hectares, equal to 1,482,600 acres, except when swept by hurricanes, presents a still and monotonous surface. The soil is sand — endless sand — vertically as well as superficially. Artesian wells have been sunk to nearly the depth of 1,000 feet, and then a scanty supply of wretched yellow water has been the only result. As may be supposed, the lives of the inhabitants of this unpromising region are short, feverish, and sickly. The Landais have a proverb — ' Tant que Landes sera Landes Lapellagri te demande.' The said pellagri, being a fatal disease occasioned by malaria and bad water. Amidst these wastes, lying to the east of the pine forests which fringe the sea coast, the Landais, who are with few exceptions shepherds, spend the long summer days with their flocks of sheep, each animal being as well known to them as their dogs. The Landais shepherd is a primitive being, fond of solitude, rarely venturing near the railway ; when he does, he gazes wonderingly at the passing train — so to see him, you must penetrate into his wilder- ness. There, amidst the great wastes, clothed in sheeps' skins, and wearing the Navarre cap, you will find him mounted on tall stilts, become, from long habit, like a second pair of legs, for he has been accustomed to them from childhood ; probably knitting while his flock cross the scanty herbage. There he stands, resting against his pole, a strange tripod-looking figure — stranger still when he strides 4 APPEARANCE PRESENTED BY PLANTATIONS. across the Landes in hot haste after a wandering sheep. He has a small hut, sometimes a wife who aids him in cultivating a small patch of ground, from which he obtains a little corn and a few vegetables. A miserable existence is this, but the dawn of brighter days has, we may hope, appeared for the poor Landais." Some two hours journeying by rail takes the traveller from Bourdeaux through clouds of dust and forests of pine to Arcachon. " Here," writes an English tourist, " houses, like Indian bungalows, with broad verandahs, and often of only one storey, run for more than a mile along the water's edge, each surrounded by its own ' compound,' to keep up the Indian phraseology, and each with its bathing-house and steps leading down to the beach. From these the lightly-clad inmates emerge at all hours, and pass the greater part of their time either paddling barefoot on the shore when the tide is out, or dancing in groups in the sea, which has the merit, in the eyes of the nervous part of the population, of always being as smooth as a mill-pond. I never saw a place so absolutely and completely given over to bathing. . . But the real charm of Arcachon lies in its pine forests, covering sand-dunes sometimes three or four hundred feet high, and stretching back over the landes, where fresh-water lakes glimmer in the blue distance. Picturesquely grouped within these resinous groves are perched the villas and cottages of the winter town, to which consumptive patients resort in the colder months to breathe turpentine mixed with the soft sea breeze. The extraordinary advantages of this hygienic compound seem to be getting more and more recognised, and each year the number of visitors increases. The high dunes completely shelter the winter town from the violence of the gales, while there is a life and purity in the atmosphere which have worked marvellous results. With a compass one may explore the recesses of these forests for miles on horseback, for there is scarcely any underwood, and one can therefore steer through them in any direction ; though in fact there is not much danger of being very seriously lost, for the forest abounds with the wooden shanties of the collectors of turpentine, who are perpetually at work gashing the trees and emptying the little pots tied on to them, and which contain the sap, into the small tanks prepared to receive it. In the centre of the basin are a couple of sand-banks, one of them partially dry at low water, and on which any number of rabbits may be shot ; and on the other an oyster-park, with an old hulk stranded upon it. Large parties of merry-makers sail to this moist and oozy spot, and, DESCRIPTION OF THE PIGNADAS. taking off their shoes and stockings, catch their own shrimps, gather their own cockles, and knock the oysters off the tiles upon which they are growing, for themselves ; and then retiring to the hulk, where sundry articles of diet may be purchased, make their cannibal pic-nic with the addition of these living creatures. . . . Another pleasing entertainment, much resorted to by both sexes, is spearing fish by torchlight. On a dark night the bay is sometimes brightly illuminated with the glare of the pine-splinters flaming from the prows of boats in iron cradles, and the shouts of laughter tell of un- successful prods with many-pronged spears at the eels and mullet which wriggle or dart round the bright reflection on the water. It requires considerable skill and practice to bring home a large basket- ful, but some ladies become tolerably expert at this sport." And here, amidst all the gaiety of a fashionable watering-place, the residenter or the forester may find a solitude, for which he might seek in vain elsewhere, in the forest of pines. " This, indeed," writes "Weld, " is the characteristic feature of Arcachon. The great pine forest of the Landes, locally called pignadas, extends from the Adour to the Gironde, and is an extraordinary monument of man's skill and perseverance. " Prior to 1789 this vast forest area was — ' A bare strand Of hillocks heaped from ever-shifting sand, Matted with thistles and amphibious weeds, Such as from earth's embrace the salt ooze breeds.' The sand was so fine as to be wafted by the faintest breeze ; while the great sea storms raised huge sand waves, which overwhelmed vegetation, and, rolling inland, frequently carried desolation and destruction among far distant villages and fields. Such was the state of this part of the country when M. Bremontier, an officer in the Government department of the administration of forests of France, conceived the idea of erecting wattle hurdles and boards near the sea, so as to break the storms ; and of sowing in narrow zones, leeward and at right augles to the prevailing wind, seeds of the Plnus Pinaster and common broom, in the proportion of five pounds of the former to two of the latter per acre. The area sown was then covered or thatched with pine branches, care being taken to prevent these being blown away, by pinning them to the ground. In about six weeks the broom seeds produced plants six inches high, which attained the height of two feet at the close of the year. These 6 APPEARANCE PRESENTED BY PLANTATIONS. now afforded excellent shelter to the pine plants, which were but 4-inch striplings, and under their fostering protection the pines grew and flourished, until at length, with an ingratitude not unhappily confined to the vegetable world, they suffocated their infantine protectors, and rose high, defiant of the raging sand-storms. "So effective was M. Bremontier's process that, in 1871, a com- mission, appointed by Government to examine the Landes, reported that 12,500 acres were covered with thriving and pi'ofitable pines; and the Landais, who had lived to see their howling wastes clothed with far-stretching forests, were enabled to gain a livelihood, less precarious and perilous than that obtained by fishing in the stormy waters of the Biscay Bay. " Twenty-five years passed, and then the hand of man was busy among the pines. Good as the pinaster is for domestic purposes, La Fontaine says : ' Sera-t-il Dieu, table, ou cuvette ? it is far more valuable for the great quantity of resin, tar, and lamp- black which it produces. As you ride through the pines you will meet the resin-gatherers, resiniers, as they are called, who during the summer months live in the forest ; for the most part a rude set of men, speaking a strange patois, from which, however, you may glean some information. When the resin-harvest is at hand, the resinier goes forth provided with a short ladder and a curved axe. His manner of testing the fitness of a tree to be tapped is by throwing his arms around it. If the trunk be so thick that he cannot see his finger ends, the pine is ripe for the operation. This is performed with great quickness and dexterity. A longitudinal cut or groove is made in the trunk, down which the resin flows, and is caught at the bottom of the stem, in a little trough fashioned in a few moments from the bark removed by the cut. Weekly the wound is re-opened but not widened, and the operation is renewed yearly, until the entire trunk is scored in such a manner as to make you wonder how the maimed bole can support the superincumbent weight. But, stranger still, the pine is not injured by this scoring process ; for, if the operation be judiciously performed, by the time that the resinier has gone round the tree, the first wound has healed, and the trunk is ready to be bled again. Wonderful too is the quantity of resin which exudes from these bountiful trees. You may know where the resiniers have lately been, by the palsamic odour proceeding from the wounded pine. A resin-gatherer told me that after a season's practice — from the first of May to the end of September — a good COLLECTING OP RESIN. { hand could score 2,400 trees, scrape the resine molle, which encrusts the trunks, into the troughs with small iron rakes, and carry the resin to the pits where it is boiled. I saw a resinier frequently score a tree to the height of 15 feet, and make a trough in two minutes and a quarter. Such a proficient earns 25 francs weekly, a high wage in this part of France. Indeed, the resinier is far better off now than the small vineyard proprietor, who generally, destitute of capital, is ruined by a failure of his crop. . . . " When the pines have been scored and re-scored, those destined to make tar — called pins perdus — are cut down. The tar, com- mercially known as goudron des Landes, not so good, however, as that derived from the Scotch pine, is made by burning the roots and thick portion of the trunk very slowly in cavities made in sloping ground, and the tar is caught in cast-iron pans and run into barrels. An inferior kind of lamp-black is deposited from the smoke of the wood, but a better description is obtained by burning the straw used in straining the resin. " Besides these products, the resin of the Pinus Pinaster yields common turpentine, and is used extensively for pills. Glaring placards and advertisements at Arcachon further inform the visitor that ' Sdve de Pin Maritime est recommandee contre les affections de poitrine, catarrhes, bronchitis,' &c, by the French Faculty, — a revival by the way, in another form, of tar-water, whose varieties were extolled by Bishop Berkeley long ago, in his curious book, entitled 1 Sevis'. . . . " And even now the economical uses of resin are not exhausted ; so the Frenchman did not exaggerate when he asserted that, resine est Vor en barriques. " Many and delightful were the hours that I spent in the Pignadas, generally on horseback, for the country around Arcachon is very favourable for riding, and the small Landais horses are excellent. Arab blood runs in their veins. " As all the agremens of Arcachon are not yet chronicled in guide books, I may mention that by far the most enjoyable excursion is that to the Pointe du Sud, about six miles south of the town. Start early, when the tide is ebbing, so that you may enjoy the fine, broad, hard sand. At the Pointe du Sud you have the mighty Atlantic before you, the great Biscayan waves breaking at your feet ; while behind dark pines fringe the coast. Return through the forest ; avenues, called Gardes-feu cut through the pines to prevent the spread of fire, extend to Arcachon ; and when you are on the right track, you will 8 APPEARANCE PRESENTED BY PLANTATIONS. do well not to stray from it, as it is quite possible to realise in these pignadas the unpleasant feeling of losing your way, particularly when the sun has set. " Few places are more impressive than dark pine forests, now scream- ing when the wind sweeps through to the trees, and now filling the solitude with murmering voices, when stirred by gentle breezes, and yet not a solitude ; for as you pass through them in the noontide the air trembles with ceaseless hum. Pines are always a favourite home for insects ; and here, in the warm south, they exist in countless multitudes, making even silence vocal ; for, flashing through the air, or sluggishly basking in the summer sun, they are endowed with the power of making the forest resonant with strange sounds. By far the most remarkable of these noisy animals is the Cicada, which attains a great size in the pine forests in Southern France, and emits a loud sound, according to my observation, always increasing in intensity as the temperature rises." Agriculture, as from the first was intended, has followed in the wake of sylviculture. " After innumerable futile attempts to reclaim and fertilise portions of this desert, two joint stock companies (Compagnie des Landes, and Compagnie d'Arcachon), have succeeded in reclaiming a considerable portion of the Plaine de Cazaux. "Sheltered from the prevalent west winds, by the great maritime pine forest, the Plaine de Cazaux, situated to the east or leeward, as may be said, of that forest, is not so liable to the destructive effects of the great sand storms as other parts of the Landes. Rice, tobacco, and the topinambour or Jerusalem artechoke, for which the soil is admirably adapted, are the chief crops. The improvements are in a great measure due to a M. Pierre." From these pen and ink sketches some idea may be formed of the appearances presented by the pine plantations on the Landes of the Gironde. The forest-like chai-acter of these will bear comparison with that of the plantations seen from the tower of the cathedral of Antwerp. And a knowledge of the general appearance presented by the district may lead to the conclusion that the transformation cannot have been less complete. CHAPTER II. Appearances Presented by Lands Adjacent to the Pine Plantations in Gascony. To appreciate aright the effect produced by the planting of the drift sands of the Landes with pine trees, it is necessary to know some- thing of the appearance presented by the land thus utilised, and of the land around which has thus been transformed into what in com- parison therewith is a paradise — a garden of delight. A description of the district, which may be reckoned one of the most dreary and dismal in the land, one altogether at variance with the ideas called up by the designation La Belle France, is given in a work by Arthur Mangin, entitled " The Desert World," from an English translation, of which I cite the following description : " The department which borrows its name from the Landes of Gascony is divided by the Adour into two wholly dissimilar parts. To the south of the river lies a rich, undulating, vine-bearing country, rich in pasturage and harvest, sown with pleasant villages and smiling country houses, and watered by full streams and little rivers. To the north the appearance of the country changes abruptly. When the traveller has crossed the alluvial zone of the Adour he sees before him a thin, dry, sandy level of a comparatively recent marine for- mation. Its only products are rye, millet, and maize ; its only vege- tation, forests of pines and scattered coppices of oaks ; beyond these, and they do not extend far, all cultivation ceases, and the soil is stripped of verdure ; you enter upon the Landes — seemingly vast as a sea — occupied by permanent or periodical swamps ; and where, over a space of several square leagues, in an horizon apparently boundless, you perceive nothing but heaths, sheepfolds or steadings for the flocks of sheep that traverse these deserts, and shepherds keeping mute watch over their animals, living wholly among them, and having no intercourse with the rest of humanity, except when once a week they seek their masters' houses to procure their supply of provisions. It is these shepherds only ( Landescots and Aouillys), and not, as is generally supposed, all the peasants of the Landes, who are perched upon stilts, so as to survey from afar their wandering flocks, and to traverse more safely the marshes which frequently lie across their path. b 10 APPEARANCE OP THE LANDES. "Wild and uncouth are the figures which these stilt-walkers present, as they move rapidly over the country, often at the rate of six or seven miles an hour ; occasionally indulging in an interval of rest, by the aid of a third wooden support at the back (curved at the top, so as to fit the hollow of the body), while they pursue their favourite pastime of knitting. The dress of the Landescot is singu- larly rude. His coat or paletot is a fleece; cuisses and greaves of the same material protect his legs and thighs ; his feet are thrust into sabots and coarse woollen socks, which cover only the heels and instep. Over his shoulder hangs the gourd which contains his week's store of provisions : some mouldy rye-bread, a few sardines, some onions and cloves of garlic, and a flask of thin sour wine. From sunrise to sun- set he lives upon the stilts, never touching the ground. Sometimes he drives his flock home at eventide ; sometimes he bivouacs sub jove frigido, under the cold heaven of night. Unbuckling his stilts, and producing his flint and steel, he soon kindles a cheery fire of fir- branches, and gathering his sheepskins round him, composes himself to sleep ; his only annoyances being the musquitoes, and his fears of the evil tricks of wizard or witch, who may peradventure catch a glimpse of him in the moonlight, as they ride past on their besom to some unholy gathering or demon-dance. " An English traveller has sketched in vivid colours the landscape of the Landes. Over all its gloom and barrenness, he remarks, over all its ' blasted heaths,' its monotonous pine-woods, its sudden morasses, its glaring sand-heaps, prevails a strong sense of loneliness, a grandeur and intensity of desolation, which invests the scene with a sad, solemn poetry peculiar to itself. Emerging from the black shadows of the forest, the pilgrim treads a plain, ' flat as a billiard- table,' apparently boundless as the ocean, clad in one unvaried un- broken garb of dusky heath. Sometimes stripes and ridges, or great ragged patches of sand, glisten in the fervid sunshine ; sometimes belts of scraggy young fir trees appear rising from the horizon on the right, and sinking into it again on the left. Occasionally a brighter shade of green, with jungles of willows and water weeds, giant rushes, and 'clustered marish mosses,' will tell of the 'blackened waters' beneath — * Hard by a poplar shook alway, All silver-green with gnarled bark ; For leagues no other tree doth mark The level waste, the rounding gray.' " The dwellings which stud this dreary, yet not wholly unpoetic DESCRIPTION OF THE LANDES. 11 landscape, are generally mere isolated huts, separated oftentimes by many miles. Round them spreads a miserable field or two, planted with such crops as might be expected on a poor soil and from deficient cultivation. The cottages are mouldering heaps of sod and unhewn and unmortared stones, clustered round with ragged sheds composed of masses of tangled bushes, pine-stakes and broad-leaved reeds, beneath which the meagrest looking cattle conceivable find a precarious shelter. " The Landes are divided into the Little Landes, near Mont-de- Marsan ; and the Great Landes, stretching to the north and west of the department of which that town is the capital, and uniting unin- terruptedly with those that occupy the vast country situated south of the Gironde. The total superficial area of these plains is estimated at upwards of 2,400,000 acres, of which two-thirds belong to the de- partment of the Landes, and the remainder to that of the Gironde." Again — " In shape, the Great Landes may be compared to an immense rectangular triangle, having for its base the coast, which, from the mouth of the Gironde to Bayonne, or for a length of more than sixty leagues, is almost rectilineal. But they are separated from the sea by a long parallel chain of lakes and water-courses — a waste of shallow pools — a labyrinth of gulfs and morasses, and then by the continuous chain of the Dunes. " That which is commonly called the Great Lande is bounded on the north by the etang, or lake, of Cazau. It is a sandy, treeless plain, and upon which, for a traject of several leagues from east to west, not one habitation worthy of the name is perceptible until the traveller arrives at Mimizan, near the southern point of the lake of Aureilhan. This lake on the south-west pours its waters into the sea. To the north it communicates, through the canal of St. Eulalie, with the lake of Biscarosse, which is itself connected with that of Cazau. East of this chain of lakes lies the Lande ; west of it stretches the range of Dunes, or sand hills. " The lake or pool of Cazau is a small sea of fresh water, perfectly clear, profoundly deep, and fourteen to fifteen thousand acres in extent. It has its whirlwinds and its tempests, so that in certain seasons it is perilous to embark on its surface. And were its banks clothed with rich woods, or raised aloft in irregular or precipitous cliffs, it would surely attract as great a throng of tourists as the mountain-tarns and lochs of Scotland or Cumberland, or the Arcadian waters of Northern Italy. The lake of Biscarosse, in form a triangle, with one side formed by the Dunes, covers about twelve thousand 12 APPEARANCE OF THE LANDES. acres. It derives its name from a village situated at its northern angle, on the bank of the canal which connects it with the lake of Cazau. The lake of Aureilkan is the smallest of the three ; the St. Eulalie canal, which links it to the preceding, traverses a series of peat-bogs bounded eastward by gloomy pine-forests, and westward by the interminable Dunes, which, by arresting the flow of the rain- waters, have really created these so-called lakes and extensive swamps. Enormous quantities of rain fall every year in the Landes, — which district the Romans would certainly have dedicated to Jupiter Pluvius, — and find beneath the thin superficial stratum or crust of sand and earth, a sub-soil of tufa and allios — in other words, of com- pact chalk and sand agglutinated by a ferruginous sediment. Fre- quently this tufa possesses all the hardness of stone, and its imperviousness is its fundamental property. Hence it follows, that a portion of the heavy annual rainfall remains in the receptacles provided by the hollows and depressions of the soil, and in due time accumulates into marshes and lagoons, until gradually evaporated by the heat of spring. " When of old the scared peasants beheld the irresistible advance of these strange ministers of destruction, they had no other resource than to fell their woods, abandon their dwellings, and surrender their ' little all' to the pitiless sand and devouring sea. What could avail against such a scourge? Efforts were made to repel it. It is said that Charlemagne, during a brief residence in the Landes, on his return from his expedition against the Saracens, employed his veterans, and expended large sums of money in preserving the cities of the coast from imminent ruin ; but whether the means employed were insufficient, or whether the imperial resources failed, and other urgent needs diverted the population and their leaders from this struggle against nature, the works were wholly abandoned." But in more propitious circumstances the work has been resumed with better success. " The reader," says the writer I have quoted, " must not believe this country to be a desert in the popular acceptation of the word ; it has its forests of pines, where the extraction and preparation of resinous matter are carried on with considerable activity. It has its small towns, its pretty villages, its factories, and even its handsome villas. Finally, modern industry has cut the Landes in two by the Bordeaux railway, which traverses them from north to south, and bifurcates at Morans to throw off a line to Bayonne, and another to Tarbes." DESCRIPTION OF DUNES. 13 Of the Dunes which have been so transformed M. Mangin gives the following description : — " The Dunes form the extreme line of the Brittany coast for nearly two hundred miles, from the Adour to the Garonne. They are hills of white sand, as fine and soft as if it had been sifted through an hour-glass. Their outline, therefore, changes every hour. When the wind blows from the land, millions of tons of sand are hourly driven into the sea, to be washed up again on the beach and blown inland by the first Biscay gale. A water hurricane from the west will fill up with sand square miles of shallow lake, driving the displaced waters into the interior, dispersing them in shining pools among the ' murmurous pines,' flooding and fre- quently destroying the scattered hamlets of the people, and inun- dating their fields of rye and millet. " Their origin is due to the prevalence of the sea-winds on those points of the coast which are not protected by rock and cliff, and whose slopes of sand descend very gradually to the margin of the waves. Their formation is easily explained. The sand of which they are composed is a silicious material, reduced to minute grains, generally rounded, by trituration. These grains, nevertheless, are often too big and too heavy for the wind to take them up and scatter them afar, like the dust of the highways or the ashes of volcanoes. But at low tide the sand, dried by the sun's rays and the action of the wind, offers to the latter a sufficient holdfast to be dragged up the slopes which descend seaward, and deposited at a certain distance. This process being constantly repeated, the heaps are daily increasing in dimensions. "It will easily be understood that this accumulation along the shore cannot have taken place where the force and direction of the sands experience periodical or capricious changes ; for then the sands cast upon the beach by the winds of the north and west would be driven back into the sea by the winds of the south and east. This is noticeable in many places where the nature of the coast is favourable for the production of such a phenomenon. But on other shores — as on the Atlantic littoral of France — the winds which blow most frequently and most violently are from the west and south-west. And it is there we encounter the Dunes. Those of Gascony are by far the most remarkable. Northward, they extend as far as the Point de Grave, which shuts in the mouth of the Gironde ; southward, to the bank of the Adour, and even further, to the cliffs of Beam. Here the basin of Arcachon constitutes one vast hollow ; and some open- ings exist, moreover, in the department of Landes, between that basin 14 APPEARANCE OF THE L ANDES. and the Adour, for the overflow of the waters which descend from the interior. To the north and south of the Teste de Buch the chain of sand hills measures from 4,400 to 6,600 feet in width. At other points it is still wider ; but it narrows towards its extremities, and both at the Point de Grave and near Bayonne does not exceed 450 yards. " Owing to their extreme shiftiness of soil, the Dunes can attain no considerable elevation. The sand deposited by the wind on the sum- mit of the hill is always in a state of precarious equilibrium. It has a constant tendency to be precipitated down the other side, and the higher the summit the greater is this tendency, so that there comes at last a moment when no further accumulation in height is possible. The Dune may then extend its basis, may even increase twofold in dimensions, but it no longer rises. " Let us note, moreover, that owing to its density the sand cannot be carried even by the most violent winds into the higher regions of the atmosphere ; and that the Dunes, when they have reached a cer- tain elevation, oppose to them an insuperable obstacle. This circum- stance would consequently have a salutary effect, and the accumulation of sand would be determined by a law of its own, if the Dunes, once formed, had time to cohere. But this is not the case. Incessantly does the wind undo or modify its work ; and the loftiest hills being the most exposed to its violence, are quickly reduced to the common level. In general, the greatest elevation of the Dunes corresponds to their greatest breadth. Thus the culminating point of those of Gas- cony is found in the belt situated between the lakes of Cazau and Biscarosse, where the chain is from 7,500 to 9,000 yards across. Their average height is 180 feet to 200 feet above the sea-level ; but some of the hills in the forest of Biscarosse attain an altitude of 320 feet. In the neighbourhood of the mouths of the Gironde and the Adour, where the chain is considerably narrowed, the height of the Dunes is only thirty to forty-five feet. " The reader must not suppose that the Dunes consist of a single series of sand hills ranged along the shore. He will, however, have conjectured, from our statements respecting their width, that they really compose a chain of several more or less regular ridges. The hills are separated from one another by valleys, locally named laites or lettes. These valleys, where the pluvial waters flow and accumu- late, exhibit a striking contrast, in their freshly-blooming verdure, to the naked, barren Dunes. The general aspect of the landscape may, therefore, be compared to that of the ocean. There is the same DESCRIPTION OP DUNES. 15 broken surface, the same extent of undulation, the billows of sand being upheaved by the wind like the billows of the sea, and sharing in their mobility. You must see, says a writer, in order to form an idea of those colossal masses of fine sand, which the wind incessantly skims, and which travel in this way towards the inland country ; you must see their contours so softened that they look like mountains of plaster of Paris polished by the workman's hand, and their surface so mobile that a little insect leaves upon it a conspicuous track ; their slopes, at every degree of inclination ; their everlasting sterility — not a blade of grass, not an atom of vegetation ; their solitude, less imposing than that of the mountains, but still of a truly savage character. You must see, from the summit of one of these ridges, the ocean on your right hand, and on your left the extensive lakes which border the littoral ; and, in the midst of this tumultuous sea of tawny sand, green grassy valleys, rich and fertile pastures, smiling oases of verdure, where herds of horses graze, and cows, half-wild, guarded by shepherds scarcely less wild than they. " The marked characteristic of the Dunes, as we have already said, is their mobility, which renders them a constant menace for the neighbouring populations. To the wind which creates them they owe their frequent changes and their inland movement. While the sea eats into the coast, assisted by the breezes which gradually sweep clear the ground before it, the Dunes extend, and drive before them the shallow lakes : these in their turn encroach upon the Landes, and until now man has been constrained to recoil, step by step, before his threefold enemy. It is in this phenomenon, rather than in the un- grateful soil of the Landes, that we must seek the cause of the curse which has seemed so long to rest upon this country-side. You must go back some twenty centuries to trace the origin of the Dunes of Gascony. Fourteen or fifteen hundred years ago the coast north of the Adour was inhabited, and comparatively flourishing. Mimizan was then a town and a sea-port, from which were exported the resinous products of the neighbouring forests. The Normans disembarked there on several occasions. Under its walls, in 506, was fought a great battle between the allied Goths and Ostrogoths on the one side, and the Bearnais, commanded by a bishop of Lescar, on the other. Both town and port to-day are buried under the sands. ' Full fathom five ' lie church and convent, and the busy street, the noisy mart, and the once peaceful home. The present village has nearly perished : the Dune was not three yards from the church when its progress was recently arrested. Other cities, laid down in old charts of the country, 16 APPEARANCE OP THE LANDES. but of which not a trace remains, have in this manner disappeared, and entire forests have been ingulfed, now under the sands of the Dunes, now under the sands and waves of the sea. " Some parts of the chain have been rendered to a great extent immovable by the vegetation which has gradually covered them, and these have opposed a formidable obstacle to the encroachments of the sands. Yet here and there the barrier has been defied. For example, in the forest of Biscarosse the movable Dunes, actually sweeping over the ancient hills, have not only filled up the valleys, but ingulfed a great number of pines, and raised themselves several yards above the crest of the oldest trees, planted on the summit of the highest hills." The name Dunes is traced etymologically to Dun, a hill, and in the designation we may trace the origin of the designation downs given to extensive districts in England. The designation lande is given to waste lands and moors ; and thus may the landes of the Gironde be associated in thought with Dartmoor and Exmoor, and with Howns- low Heath and other places bearing similar designations in England. But if associated in thought differences in their character must not be lost sight of. Of Dartmoor, the extensive and romantic table land of granite, which occupies the south-western part of the country of Devon, it is stated in the work from which I have quoted — " In its recesses still linger the eagle, the bustard, and the crane; its solitudes are broken by the hoarse cries of the sparrow-hawk, the hobby, and the goshawk ; and the Cyclopean memorials of Druidism which cover its surface — cromlechs and kistvaens, tolmens and stone-avenues — invest it with a peculiar air of mysterious awe. It extends in length about twenty-two miles (from north to south), and in breadth twenty miles (from east to west). Its total area exceeds 130,000 acres. It rises above the surrounding country like ' the long, rolling waves of a tempestuous ocean, fixed into solidity by some instantaneous and powerful impulse.' A natural rampart is cast around it. Deep ravines, watered by murmuring streams, diversify its aspect, and lofty hills of granite, locally called tors, of which the principal, Yes Tor, has an elevation of 2,050 feet above the sea. Its soil is composed of peat, in some places twenty-five feet deep, underneath which lies a solid mass of granite, occasionally relieved by trap (a volcanic rock), and traversed by veins of tin, copper, and manganese. " Nearly in the centre of this dismal wilderness lies an immense morass, whose surface is in many places incapable of supporting the lightest animal, and whose inexhaustible reservoirs supply the foun DESCRIPTION OF DARTMOOR. 17 tains of many a river and stream — the Dart, the Teigu, the Taw, the Tavy — all clear as crystal in the summer months, but, after heavy rains, rnuniug redly through the ' stony vales.' The roaring of these torrents, when angry and swollen, is sublime to a degree inconceiv- able by those who have never heard the wild impressive music of untamed Nature. " The tors are remarkable for their quaint fantastic outlines, which, like the clouds, suggest all manner of strange similitudes — to dragons, and griffins, and hoary ruins, and even to human forms of gigantic size, apparently confronting the traveller as the lords and natural denizens of the rugged waste. The principal summits are Yes Tor, Cawaand Beacon, Fur Tor, Lynx Tor, Rough Tor, Holne Ridge, Brent Tor, Rippen Tor, Hound Tor, Sheep's Tor, Crockem Tor, and Great Mis Tor. Not only must their variety of form delight the artist, but his eye rests well pleased on their manifold changes of colour — purple, and green, and gray, and blue — now softened by a delicate vaporous shadow, now glowing with intense fulness in the sun's unclouded light. " Dartmoor is traditionally reputed to have been anciently clothed with forest. The sole relic now existing is the lonely Wistman't Wood, which occupies a sombre valley, bounded on the one side by Crockern Tor, on the other by Little and Great Bairdown ; the slopes being strewn with gray blocks of granite in ' admired disorder,' as if the Titans had been at their cumbrous play. Starting from this chaos of rocks, appears a wood or grove of dwarf weird-looking oaks, interspersed with the mountain-ash, and everywhere festooned about and garlanded with ferns and parasitical plants. None of these trees exceed twelve feet in height, but at the top they spread far and wide, and ' branch and twist in so fantastic and tortuous a manner as to remind one of those strange things called mandrakes.' Their branches are literally covered with ivy and creeping plants, and their trunks so thickly embedded in a coating of moss that at first sight, says Mrs. Bray, ' you would imagine them to be of enormous thickness in proportion to their height. Their whole appearance conveys to you the idea of hoary age in the vegetable world of creation ; and on visiting Wistman's Wood it is impossible to do other than think of those " groves in stony places " so often mentioned in Scripture as being dedicated to Baal and Astaroth.' " That heathen rites were celebrated here in the pre-historic era seems very probable, the best etymologists agreeing that the name is a corruption of Wuc-nian, or Wish-man ; that is, of the old Norse god C 18 APPEARANCE OF THE LANDES. Woden, who is still supposed to drive his spectral hounds across the silent wastes of Dartmoor. Celtic or Cymric memorials, as we have previously hinted, are very abundant and very various. There are cromlechs, where the Britons buried their dead ; stone pillars, with which they commemorated their priests and heroes ; avenues of upright stones leading up to the circles, where, perhaps, their priests celebrated their religious rites ; kistvaens, or stone-chests, containing the body unburned ; tolmens, or holed stones, whose meaning cannot be determined, but which may probably have had some astronomical uses; bridges, huts, and walled villages, all bearing traces of the handiwork of our ' rude forefathers.' " For the counterpart of this we must go considerably to the north of the Landes ; but we find it in Brittany, which, geologically speak- ing, may be regarded as a prolongation of our English mountains, to which, with all the north-west coast of France, they were formerly united. " Brittany," writes Mangin, " belongs to what geologists call the primitive and intermediary formations. It is divided into three belts or longitudinal trenches : those of the north and south consist of primitive rocks, granite, and porphyry ; the central appertains to a more recent formation, to the group of intermediary or secondary rocks, composed in the main of schists and mica-schists, quartz, and gneiss. Schist prevails over a considerable area, and is prolonged to the very extremity of the peninsula. These hard, compact, imper- vious rocks, are entirely bare in many places ; elsewhere, and over a great extent, they are covered but by a thin layer of clayey and sandy earth, where the sudden slopes of the soil do not allow the rains to settle. "Here are the plains, often of considerable dimensions, which, bristling with rocks, and broken up by ravines, water-courses, and marshes, constitute the Landes of Brittany. True deserts these, relieved at distant points by an isolated hut, or by a wandering herd of swine, lean cows, and meagre-looking horses, which obtain a scanty subsistence from the heathery soil, sown here and there with tufts of furze, broom, and fern. "Under a sky of almost continual sombreness, like that which impends over the pottery districts of England, these landes present a sufficiently sinister and uninviting aspect. The traveller, as he crosses their sepulchral wastes, will hardly marvel that they were anciently a chosen seat of Druidical worship. Like Dartmoor, they would seem to have offered a peculiarly fitting arena for the rites and ceremonies of a creed which we know to have been mysterious in DESCRIPTION OP BRITTANY. 19 character and sanguinary in spirit. They are covered with its gray memorials : the masses of granite of different shapes known as Mam- Mrs, or 'long stones,' and peidvens, which appear to have been employed as sepulchral monuments ; dolmens, or ' table-stones ;' and cromlechs (crom, bowed or bending, and lech, a stone), which anti- quaries are now agreed to regard as the remains of the ancient cemeteries or burial places. At Camae, near Quiberon Bay, may be seen a truly remarkable example of the Parallelitha, or avenues of upright stones, forming five parallel rows, which extend for miles over the dreary moorland. What were their uses it is impossible to determine, for there seems little ground to believe, as some writers would have us believe, that they were ' serpent temples,' where the old Ophite worship was celebrated. We can only gaze at them in wonder : mile upon mile of gray lichen stained stones, some twenty feet high, laboriously fashioned, and raised in their present places by the hand of man some twenty centuries agone. " On these very dolmens, where the priests of the Tentates were wont to immolate their human victims to their unknown god, the mediaeval sorcerers and sorceresses celebrated the Black Mass, or Mass of Satin, in terrible burlesque of the Roman Catholic sacrament, concocted their abominable philtres, and performed their dreary incantations. Alas for human nature ! In every age it is a prey to the wildest credulity. Even in the present day more than one superstition hovers around the monuments of the Celtic epoch. The Bretons believe them haunted by demons called poulpiquets, who love to make sport of the passing stranger, but will sometimes give both counsel and encouragement to those who know how to address them in the prescribed formulas ; who, like the Ladye in the ' Lay of the Last Minstrel,' at their bidding can bow ' The viewless forms of air. ' For, in the Breton mind, the superstitions of Druidism have not been wholly uprooted by the teachings of Christianity, still less by those of science and reason. Many a dark and dismal legend flourishes in the lonely recesses of the landes. " Brittany, like England, has its Comouaille, or Cornwall, and it is here, particularly in North Cornwall, that we see it under its most desolate aspect, with its chains of black treeless hills covered with heath and furze ; with its deserts of broom and fern, its ruins scat- tered along the winding roads, its attenuated herds wandering at their will across the moors, and its savage, ignorant, and scanty population. 20 APPEARANCE OP THE LANDES, The Bretons of Cornwall, according to a French writer, are elevated but a little above the true savage life. Those who dwell upon the coast live on the products of their fishing, except when the fortunate occurrence of a wreck provides them with temporary abundance. At bottom, they possess the qualities and defects of characters strongly tempered, but absolutely uncultivated. They are as hard and bare as their own granite rocks. Persevering, courageous, resolute, they make excellent sailors, the best which France can find ; the sea is for them a second country. Progress, which they do not understand, inspires them with a sort of terror, a gloomy mis- trust. When the railway surveyors first intruded upon their solitudes, these rigid conservatives assailed them with volleys of stones, and, when the railroads were laid down, flung beams across the lines to overthrow the hissing, whirring trains which threatened to disturb their prescriptive barbarism. They asked but to be left alone— to be suffered to live as their forefathers lived — to be spared the ingenuities, successes, vices, and virtues of the New World. But modern civilization, like Thor's hammer, or Siegfried's magic sword Balmung, will break down the last barriers raised by ignorance and superstition. It will shed its light upon the wilds and wastes of Brittany, and compel their inhabitants in the course of yeai's to acknowledge its value and accept its benefits." There is not a little in the ethnological remarks made which I am not prepared to homologate. I consider the Parallelitha and similar erections had no connection with Druidism, that they were more probably connected with the worship of Baal in some of its forms, having their counterpart in the high places spoken of in the Jewish Scriptures, while the Druids represented the worshippers of the « groves." But referring thus to this in passing I gladly, and with gratitude, avail myself of the topographical description. Ere we reach that stony region in travelling northwards from the Landes of Gascony, we must pass across the peat bogs of Montoir and the Grand Briere, near Savenay, in the department of the Loire Inferieure. They occupy a considerable area of a vast desolate plain, where a few lean sheep crop an insufficient food from the scanty herbage, and whose sole product is turf. " This "country," says Jules Janin, " has no other harvest, no other wealth than its peat ; neither fruit, nor flowers, nor corn, nor pastures, nor rtpose, nor well-being ; the earth is wild, the sky one of iron. It is a region of stagnant waters, pestiferous exhalations, decrepit men, famished animals." THE SWAMPS OF MOXTOIR 21 " The swampy levels of Montoir form the natural vestibule to the Armorican Peninsula, which of all the French provinces has the longest and the most vigorously withstood the advance of civiliza- tion, its ideas, and its modern institutions, and has the most rigidly preserved its primitive character. There are many nooks and cor- ners in Brittany scarcely changed in outward aspect or inner life since the remote days when it was a valued appanage of the English crown. They seem to have been plunged in a sleep of centuries, from which the shrill whistle of the steam-engine is only just awaken- ing them. The country is undulating and broken ; in the central districts it assumes quite a mountainous character. It is true that its heights are only of moderate elevation, the loftiest not exceeding 2,000 feet ; but they are barren, rude, and sombre in appearance. The coast is picturesque enough to delight the most zealous artist, bordered with high and abrupt cliffs, and lined, as it were, with a beach where the waters of the Channel ever break in floods of spray and foam, and where masses of rock lie scattered of immense size and the most fantastic forms." The counterpart to this we find in the English fen country, which extends inland, around an arm of the North Sea called the Wash, into the six counties of Cambridge, Huntingdon, Lincoln, Norfolk, Northampton, and Suffolk, with an area of upwards of 420,000 acres. Inland it is bounded by an amphitheatral barrier of high lands, and touches the towns of Bolingbroke, Brandon, Earith, Milton, and Peterborough. Into this great basin flow the waters of the greater part of the drainage of nine counties, which gather into the rivers Cam, Glen, Lark, Nene, Great and Little Ouse, Stoke, and Welland, these being linked together by a network of natural and artificial canals. " Anciently, the Fens were pleasant to the eye of the lover of the picturesque ; for they contained shining meres and golden reed-beds, haunted by countless water-fowl, and strange, gaudy insects. ' Dark- green alders,' says Kingsley, ' and pale-green reeds stretched for miles round the broad lagoon, where the coot clanked and the bittern boomed, and the sedge-bird, not content with its own sweet song, mocked the notes of all the birds around ; while high overhead hung hawk beyond hawk, buzzard beyond buzzard, kite beyond kite, as far as eye could see.' "What strange transformations must this wild region have undergone ! There was a time, in all probability, when a great part of the German Ocean was dry land, through which, into a vast estuary between North Britain and Norway, flowed together 22 APPEAEANOE OP THE LANDE8. all the rivers of North-eastern Europe — Elbe, Weser, Rhine, Scheldt, Seine, Thames, and all the rivers of east England, as far north as the Humber. Meanwhile, the valleys of the Cam, the Ouse, the Nene, the Welland, the Glen, and the Witham, were slowly ' sawing them- selves out' by the quiet action of rain and rivers. Then came an age when the lowland was swept away by the biting, corroding sea-wash still so powerfully destructive on the east coast of England, as far as Flamborough Head. ' Wave and tide by sea, rain and river by land ; these are God's mighty mills in which he makes the old world new. And as Longfellow says of moral things, so may we of physical, — " Though the mills of God grind slowly, yet they grind exceeding small ; Though he sit and wait with patience, with exactness grinds he all." ' These ever-active causes have converted the dry land into the fens. The mud brought down by the rivers cannot get away to sea ; and, with the debris of the coast, it is constantly swept southward by tide and current, and deposited within the great curving basin of the Wash, between Lincolnshire and Norfolk. There it is kept by the strong barrier of shifting sands coming inwards from the sea ; a barrier which also confines the very water of the fens, and spreads it inland into a labyrinth of streams, shallow meres, and bogs. The rainfall, over the whole vast area of dull level, has found no adequate channels of escape for centuries; and hence we may understand how peat — the certain product of standing water — has slowly overwhelmed the rich alluvium, and swallowed up gradually the stately forests of fir and oak, ash and poplar, hazel and yew, which once spread far and wide over the blooming country. ' Many a green isle needs must be In the deep wide sea of misery,' sings Shelley ; and this dreary outcome of mudbank and bog and mere had its wooded isles, very fair and lovely to behold, redeeming the desolation of the landscape. Such were Ramsey, Lindsey, Whittlesea, whose names remind us of their whilome characteristics lea, ey, an island). In these green places the old monks loved to build their quiet abbeys, rearing their herds in rich pastures, feeding fat fish in their tranquil streams, and dreaming in the shadow of green alder and stately ash. " But these Eden-isles were few, and the surrounding marsh was black and dismal enough to scare the boldest spirit, and pestilential enough to sap and undermine the strongest frame. The Romans had attempted to drain and embank it, and their vallum may still be DESCRIPTION OF THE FENS. 23 tracked along the surface of the marsh-lands, marked to this day by the names of Walsoken, Walton, and Walpoole. In the Middle Ages, however, it returned to its primeval desolateness — a waste and wilderness, haunted by the foul legends of an unwholesome super- stition. In the immediate neighbourhood of the great monasteries of Crowland and Ely, and of the thriving towns, the good work of drainage went on slowly ; but elsewhere the land was given up to the bittern and the heron." By Dukes of Bedford much was accomplished in the earlier half of the seventeenth century, and by Rennie, the great engineer, some hundred and fifty years later, to fit these fens for agricultural opera- tions. " Works are now in progress," says the writer from whom, in furtherance of my work, I have quoted so largely, " for rescuing a further portion of the basin of the Wash, to be formed into a new county, and named after the Queen. So that now, in tracts once covered by the sea, or knee-deep in reedy, slushy, pestilential slime, the grass grows luxuriantly, the crops wave in golden abundance, or the breeze takes up and carries afar — ' The livelong bleat Of the thick-fleeced sheep from wattled folds.' " But the dominion of labour has not yet been established over the the whole Fen-districts. There are still dreary nooks, and gloomy corners, and unproductive wastes ; wild scenes there are, which few Englishmen have any conception of as contained within the boun- daries of their own ' inviolable isle.' Romantic scenery, remarks Mr. Walter White, must not be looked for on the Lincolnshire coast. In all the journey from the Wash till you see the land of Yorkshire, beyond the Humber, not an inch of cliff will your eyes discover. Monotonous is the prospect of — 1 A level waste, a rounding gray' of sand-hills, which vary but slightly in height, and bristle with marum. ' But tame though it be,' continues our authority, ' the scene derives interest from its peculiarity. Strange perspective effects appear in those irregular hills : yonder they run out and form a low dark, purple headland, against which the pale green and yellow of a nearer tongue look bright by contrast. Here for a few furlongs the range rises gray, cold, and monotonous ; there it has a warmth of colour relieved by deep shadows, that change their tint during the hours that accompany the sun while he begins and ends his day. Sitting on the summit of those dry hills, you will remark the con- 24 APPEARANCE OF THE LANDES. trasted landscape : on the one side, the level pasture land, league after league of grassy green, sprinkled with villages, farms, churches, and schools, where work and worship will find exercise through ages yet to come ; on the other, league after league of tawny sand, sloping gently outwards to meet the great sea that ever foams or ripples thereupon. On the one hand, a living scene bounded by the distant wolds ; on the other, a desert, sea and shore alike solitary, bounded only by the overarching sky. More thoughts come crowding into the mind in presence of such a scene than are easy to express.' " Such as are these English Dunes and Moors and Fens are the Landes, with which the sand dunes which have been reclaimed to man are associated, and of which they form a part. The special characteristic of them is the sand of which they are composed ; the second characteristic of them is the superficial aspect which the hill- like accumulation of the sand gives to the contour of the country ; a third characteristic is the constant onward movement of the sand landward, covering up valuable fertile land with sterile sand and stagnant waters ; and the last, but not least remarkable characteristic is the forests which now wave over extensive areas thus recovered. Of these the writer I have quoted, — I am unable to say whether M. Mangin or his translator, — for the latter states that he has made copious additions to the original work, with the view of rendering its scope more comprehensive and complete, and of adapting it specially to the requirements of the English reader — says : — " The works of Charlemagne, on which he employed his veterans to preserve imperilled cities, have been resumed, and with greater success, by a skilful agriculturist, M. Desbiey, of Bordeaux, and an able engineer, M. Bremontier, who have called in nature herself to assist man in his war against nature. Their system consists of sowing in the driest sand the seeds of the sea-pine, mixed with those of the broom (genista scoparia), and the psamma arenaria. The spaces thus sown are then closely covered with branches to protect them from the action of the winds. These seeds germinate spontaneously. The brooms, which spring up rapidly, restrain the sand, while sheltering the young pines, and thenceforth the Dune ceases to move, because the wind can no longer unsettle its substance, and the grains are held together by the roots of the young plants. The work is always begun on the inland side, in order to protect the farmer and the peasant, and to withdraw the infant forest from the unwholesome influence of the ocean-winds. And, in order that the sown spaces THE FEATURE OF THE LANDES. 25 shall not themselves be buried under the sands blown up from the shore, a palisade of wicker-work is raised at a suitable distance, which, reinforced by young plants of sandwort (psamma arenaria), check the moving sands for a sufficiently long time to favour the development of the seeds. Finally, the work is completed by the construction of a substantial wall, or rather an artificial cliff, which effectually prevents the further progress of the flood, or directs it seaward, to be arrested on its course by the barrier of the sand-hills. Unable to force a passage through these natural ramparts, they have excavated certain basins, more or less extensive, and more or less deep, which have formed inland seas, communicating with the Atlantic by one narrow issue. " It is a noteworthy fact that, owing to the encroachment of the Dunes, these lakes have been constantly forced back upon the inland country. Fortunately, this menacing invasion of the sands has been checked by the great engineering works executed a few years ago ; which, on the one hand, have fixed, and, as it were, solidified the Dunes, and, on the other, have provided for the regular outflow of the waters. The Landes have thus been opened to the persevering labours of the cultivator. The culture of the pine, and the manu- facture of resinous substances, have largely extended, and the time, perhaps, is not far distant when these deserts will almost completely disappear; when these desolate and unproductive plains will pleasantly bloom, transformed into shadowy woods or verdurous meadows. " To so fortunate a result nothing will more powerfully contribute than the embankment of the Dunes. These have been, in reality, the true scourge of this country ; these were the moving desert, the con- stantly ascending sea, which had already engulfed forests, villages, even towns, under its billows of sand, and driven before it the ter- rified inhabitants of the coast." The expressions employed in this intimation of what is expected remind a Scotsman of his Scottish paraphrase of the predictions of Isaiah — " "With joy and peace shall then be led the glad converted lands ; The lofty mountains then shall sing, the forests clap their hands. "Where briers grew 'midst barren wilds, shall firs and myrtles spring ; And nature, through its utmost bounds, eternal praise8 sing." 26 APPEARANCE OP THE LANDES. I have not seen these plantations, but I have in France had much conversation in regard to them with others of similar tastes who have resided in the midst of them. The accounts given to me were vague, but not more so than conversational statements in general are. They left on my mind the impression that on the sea margin there is a pretty broad beach, and some 100 yards or more from this — 200 it may be, or 300 — the trees have been planted in a belt following, to some ex- tent, the line of the coast, and extending in breadth irregularly from half a mile to a mile, it may be, or more, beyond which the planta- tions are continued in strips of some breadth, crossing each other at right angles, and thus enclosing quadrangular patches or fields, which have been brought under cultivation. Upwards of 100,000 acres of land were reported to me as having been reclaimed, and to a con- siderable extent covered with trees. CHAPTER III. Legislation in Regard to the Planting op the Landes with Trees. The planting of the Landes with trees was begun in 1789, under the direction of the Minister, M. Necker, (father of Madame de Stael). On the 13th Messidor an IX (2nd July, 1801), there was issued the following Arrete, or Order, relative to the plantation with wood of the Dunes on the coast of Gascony. " The Consuls of the Republic on the report of the Minister of the Interior, the Council of State having been heard, order : " Art. 1. Measures shall be taken to continue to fix and to plant in wood the Dimes of the coasts of Gascony — beginning with those of La Teste — according to the plans presented by the citizen Bremon- tier, engineer, and the Prefect of the department of the Gironde. " 2. To this effect there shall be established a commission, composed of the chief engineer of the department, who shall preside, a forest administrator, and three members taken from the agricultural section of La Societe des sciences, arts et belles-lettres de Bourdeaux, who shall be appointed by the Prefect on presentation by the society. " The said commission shall direct and superintend the execution of the works, together with the employment of the funds which shall be appropriated thereto. The whole under the authority, and with the approval of, the Prefect." . . . By another order, issued under date of the 3rd Jour complementaire, an IX, it was ordered : " Art. I. The measures prescribed under Order of the 13th Messidor, an IX, for the fixation and plantation of the Dunes on the coasts of Gascony shall, in what relates to wicker hurdles and other artificial works which they shall require, be discussed on the plans of the citizen Bremontier, Engineer-in-chief, and approved by the Prefect of the department of the Gironde ; and in what relates to sowings and plantations these must be arranged with the Administration of Forests. " 2. The expenses for hurdles and other artificial works shall be made from the funds of the department of the Interior, and those for the plantations and the salaries of forest agents from the funds appropriated to forests." 28 LEGISLATION RELATIVE TO By decree of 12th July, 1808, it was declared : " Art. 22. There shall be established in the department of the Landes a commission for the plantation of the Dunes. " This commission shall be organised in the same manner as that established at Bordeaux in execution of the decree of the 18th Messidor, an IX." On the 14th December, 1810, the following decree was passed by Napoleon : "Napoleon, &c. — On the report of our Minister of the Interior, our Council of State having been heard, we have decreed and do decree as follows : " Art. 1. In the maritime departments there shall be taken measures for the sowing, the plantation, and the culture of vegetables known to be the most suitable for the fixation of Dunes. " 2. To this effect the Prefects of all the departments in which are Dunes shall cause to be prepared in their respective departments by the Ingenieurs des Fonts et Chaussees, a chart of the Dunes which are susceptible of being fixed by plantations appropriate to their nature ; they shall cause to be distinguished on their charts the Dunes which belong to the domains, those which belong to communes, and those which are the property of private persons. " 3. Each Prefect shall draw out, or cause to be drawn out, in support of these charts, a memoir on the most advantageous manner of proceeding, according to localities, in the sowing and planting of the Dunes ; they shall annex to this report a draft of regulations, which shall contain the measures of administration the most appropriate to his department, which can be usefully employed to effect the end desired. " 4. The charts, memoirs, and drafts of regulations, got up and drawn out in execution of the foregoing articles, shall be sent by the Prefects to our Minister of the Interior, who can, on the report of our Director-General des Fonts et Chaussees, order the plantation if the Dunes do not include any private property ; and, in the contrary case, he shall make his report to us, to be by us decided in Council of State in the form adopted for regulations of public administration. " 5. In the cases in which the Dunes shall be the property of private persons, or of communes, the charts shall be published, and posted up in the forms prescribed by the law of 8th March, 1810; and if the said private persons or communes find themselves incapable of executing the works commanded, or refuse to do so, the public PLANTATIONS ON THE DUNES. 4tf administration shall be authorised to see to the plantation at their expense ; they shall retain possession of the Dunes, and collect the proceeds of the fellings which may then be made, until complete recovery shall have been made of the expenses which have been incurred in the case, and of interest thereon ; after this the Dunes shall return to the proprietors, under burden of maintaining satis- factorily the plantations thereon. " 6. In time coming no felling de plants d'oyats, of mat grass epines maritimes, pine trees, silver firs, larches, and other arenaceous plants, ministering to the conservation of the Dunes, shall be made without the special authorisation of the Director-General des Ponts et Chaussees, and on the advice of the Prefects. " 7. There shall be established Guards for the conservation of the plantations actually existing on the Dunes, or which shall be made there in time to come ; their appointment, their number, their duties, their salary, their uniform, shall be regulated after the mode in use, for the guards of communal woods. " Offences shall be prosecuted before the tribunal, and punished conformally to the provisions of the Penal Code. " 8. We do not design, by the present decree, to innovate aught on what is practised for the plantations which are being executed in the Dunes of the departments of the Laudes, and of the department of the Gironde. " 9. Our Ministers of the Interior, and of Finances, are charged each in what concerns him, with the execution of this decree." After the restoration there was decreed the following Ordinance : " Ordinance of 5th February, 1817, relative to the fixation and the sowing of the Dunes on the departments of the Gironde and the Landes. " Louis, &c. — On the reports of our Ministers, Secretaries of State in the departments of the Interior and of Finance, our Council of State being heard, we have ordained, and do ordain as follows : "Art. 1. The works of fixation and of sowing the Dunes in the departments of the Gironde and of the Landes shall be resumed in 1817. " These works shall, in regard to execution, be directed by our Director-General des Ponts et Chaussees, under the authority of our Minister of the Interior. 2. The necessary funds for this operation shall be charged in the budget des Ponts et Chaussees, the yearly credit must not exceed 9 ,000 francs for the two departments. 30 LEGISLATION RELATIVE TO 3. The works shall be executed, the expenditure made, aud the accounts rendered, according to the mode adopted for the service des Fonts et Chaussees. " 4. In succession as the sowings reach an age which shall be afterwards determined, they shall cease to be entrusted to the Director des Fonts et Chaussees ; but he shall transfer them to the General Administration of Forests. " 5. The General Administration of Forests shall furnish, free of charge, to the Direction des Fonts et Chaussees, the seeds, young trees, and boughs, yielded by the forests which they administer, which shall be necessary for the fixation and sowing of the Dunes. " 6. The Ingenieurs des Fonts et Chaussees are authorised to require assistance of the forest agents and guards in the tours of inspection which they shall have to make over the whole extent of the Dunes. " 7. It shall subsequently be decided what special measures shall be taken to prevent and to repress the offences which tend to destroy or to injure the works of sowing the Dunes. " 8. A regulation of our Director-General des Fonts et Chaussees, approved by our Minister, Secretary of State for the Interior, shall determine the advance of the works, their range and their surveillance. (This was done by a regulation dated 7th October, 1817.) "9. The orders of 2nd July, and 20th September, 1807, are abrogated, together with all other provisions contrary to the present ordinance. " 10. Our Minister, Secretary of State for the Interior, is charged with the execution of the present ordinance." On 29th April, 1862, was issued a decree, which places the superintendance of the Dunes within the duties of the Minister of Finance. * The provisions of this are as follows : " Art. 2. The works of fixation, of maintenance, of conservation, and of exploitation of the Dunes in the maritime coast are placed within the range of duties of the Minister, Secretary of State of Finance, and they are entrusted to the Forest Administration. " 3. These provisions shall come into operation on 1st July, 1862. " 4. Our Ministers of State, of Finance, of Agriculture, of Commerce, and of Public Works, are charged each in what relates to his de- * A law appears to have been issued in 1857, enjoining the draining and planting of all lands belonging to communities within the district of the Landes, but this I have not seen. PLANTATIONS ON THE DUNES. 31 partment with the execution of the present decree, which shall be inserted in the Bulletin des Lois. These enactments tell this much of the history of the work : that the views of M. Bremontier commended themselves to the execution of the Republic, and that he was entrusted with the execution of the work at the public expense, under legitimate restriction ; that the work was ordered to be begun at the Dunes of La Teste in Gascony, in the first year of the present century, and seven years later they were begun on the Landes ; that the work was carried out with if possible greater energy under Napoleon the 1st, and subsequently under Louis XIV ; and that, carried out previously under the Minister of the Interior, they were in 1862 transferred to the control of the Minister of Finance, and entrusted to the Forest Administration. CHAPTER IV. Literature Relative to the Arrest and Cultivation op Drift-Sands in France. The work of planting the Landes of Gascony, as has been stated, was begun in 1789. In 1790 was published a Memoire sur les Dunes, , 50 >> EXPENSE OF SOWING. 79 changed into forests j but when grubbed out, and subjected to the action of black cattle during two or three years, they yield crops, which repay the expense of grubbing, and which destroy the weeds. " I have tried boisements on a large scale on the Imperial domains of Sologne. The following is the cost of sowing a hectare of exhausted land : 10 kilogrammes of maritime pine seed (winged) at 40 cents, ... 4 francs cents. 1 kilogramme of Scotch fir seed (winged) at 3 francs, 150 litres of acorns at 3 cents, 50 litres of chestnuts at 5 cents, Scattering the seed, ... Total, 16 francs 50 cents. "The expense of draining, levelling, enclosing, and weeding, varying according to locality, amounts, at the least, to 15 francs per hectare, so that the reboisement of a hectare will cost about 32 francs 50 cents, partly the seed, partly for hand labour. The expense of ploughing and harrowing must be added, but usually this is not great in these sandy soils. Land left in furrows only requires to be harrowed after the seed is scattered. " This system of boisement is perfect and permanent, and free from risk. " If the Scots fir does not germinate, which often happens, it should be replaced by the maritime pine, and vice versa. If resinous trees fail, the oak, birch, and chestnut will cover the ground sufficiently. " Some boisements cost only 4 or 5 francs per hectai*e instead of 32 francs 50 cents, in which case the seed of the maritime pine is sown along with rye and buckwheat. The seed costs little, aud the produce of the mixed culture pays for the ploughing and harrowing. This method has the drawback of risking all on a single tree, which may uot succeed. On the other hand, it is to be supposed that the ground is not too far exhausted to be able to produce at least one other crop of rye and buckwheat ; this is not usually the state of a field abandoned by farmers or small land holders. " The young pineries, called here scqnnieres, are treated according to the method already described." In the reclaiming of these Landes of La Sologne, we still find the 80 SYLVICULTURE IN LA SOLOGNE. maritime pine playing an important part ; but it is a subordinate role. It is employed here not as the one important culture, but as a means of preparing the soil for the culture of some of the poorer of the cereals, or as a manure to other trees, for the growth of which it has to make way, having secured its purpose, and in doing so exhausted its growth. In this respect, as in others, the Landes of Gascony and the Landes of La Sologne differ greatly ; and thus a fuller study of these, more especially in particulars in which they differ from each other, may be desirable. CHAPTER VIII. Inland Sand-Wastes, and Sand-Wastes on the Coast. The diffei'ent conditions of the maritime pine grown on the Landes of Gascony, and of that tree grown on the Landes of La Sologne, indicate that there must be some great difference in the conditions of the sand-wastes themselves ; and I deem it of much more importance to have this fact recognised by those who, without previous experience, may contemplate the reclaiming of sand-wastes by sylviculture, than to have the difference referred to precisely specified. All sand-wastes are not alike : there are sand-wastes ; and there are sand-wastes ; and there are trees which will grow luxuriantly upon one, which upon another will pine away and die. Climate has to do with such results as well as soil. Sea air, and saline constituents of the soil, destructive to some trees, may be, like elements, life to others. The mobility of a drifting sand dune on the coast may be a condition of life to one tree, while the comparative fixity of an inland sand-waste maybe essential to the growth of another. Something has been gained by the discovery that even the maritime pine, which has produced such wonderful results on the Landes of Gascony and of the Gironde, will not grow everywhere, even on sand- wastes in France. And the teaching of this is, that in every case in which it is sought thus to arrest and utilize sand-wastes, the culture must be determined by a special acquaintance with the case. A previous study of the natural history of sand drifts and sand dunes might facilitate the acquisition of such an acquaintance with any one case as is referred to. But this comes not within the scope of this volume, which is limited to the single chapter of that subject indicated by its title. And it is the appearance presented by planta- tions on drift sands, and by lands adjacent to the pine plantations in Gascony alone, which have as yet been detailed. Points of similarity and of difference between these sands and the sands of La Sologne have only come before us incidentally. With the fact before us, however, that there are differences in the con- ditions of sand-wastes, we may find it satisfactory to advance a little further in the study of these sand-wastes of France, less with a view of ascertaining the difference between the sand-wastes of the coast L 82 SAND-WASTES IN PRANCE. and those of the interior of France, than with a view to becoming acquainted more extensively with the less superficial conditions of these sand-wastes than those previously detailed, whether common to all or peculiar to certain localities. According to Herr Wessley, to whose work, entitled Der Europaische Flugsand und Seine Kultur* I have already had occasion to refer, the "Landes" covering 270 German square miles (5,550 English square miles) of the province of Gascony, form the area of the basin of Bordeaux, a triangle bounded by the Atlantic, and formed by the land lying between the lower portion of the beds of the Garonne and of the Adour. On the coast are the " Landes Sauvages," or coast dunes, covering an area of 19 German square miles, (nearly 400 English square miles), which, through drifting, have extended to a breadth which is unusual, and thereby has it frequently happened that the river courses far inland have been stopped up, and thus, through their waters penetrating into the Kehlen, or bared grooves, and hollows amongst the dunes, which cover more than half the land, have these waters been converted into lagoons and marshes. The inland portion of the " Landes " forms a kind of plain from 250 to 300 feet above the level of the sea, an extensive sand heath covered with dunes, very much cut up, and of a composition so unfavourable to vegetation that in many parts it is throughout the year perfectly barren. It is only of late, as he says, that by extensive sylviculture, chiefly of the maritime pine, a considerable extent of forest has been produced, following mainly the water courses, and thereby a better produce from the land has been obtained. The superficial covering of these heaths is composed principally of a very poor sand, devoid alike of clay and lime from L9 to 2*5 feet in depth, resting on an impenetrable under stratum, from 11 to 15 inches in thickness, which consists of sand cemented by calcareous and vegetable matter and is almost identical with the so-called German " Ortstein." Under this stratum of ortstein again lies sand, and although in some places they have dug to a depth of 63 feet the lower extremity of this sand layer has not been reached. In the summer season there is neither spring nor brook to be seen in these Landes. In the winter, however, being so near the sea, there is a plentiful fall of rain ; and formerly, because of the little slope of *Vienna : Fraesy and Freck. 1873. RETENTION OP WATER. 83 the ground preventing a flowing off on any side, and the ortstein preventing its sinking into the ground, they were frequently flooded, and in this state they continued till the water was finally evaporated by the summer heat ; and then things went to the other extreme, namely, a drought, because the vapour of the subterranean water could not pass through the stratum of ortstein. But here and there, where the ortstein was awanting, or had been broken through, places might be seen which were not so water drenched ; on these grew wood very well, and showed that the barrenness was not attributable to the composition of the superficial layers. The level of the subterranean water is about 3f feet below the surface. Water for drinking brought from that level is yellowish in colour, and harsh to the taste ; it is only when brought from a depth of from 12 to 15 feet that the water begins to be drinkable. In the wet localities described no oak can grow, for during the season of spring the whole heat is required for the evaporation of the water lodged there, and the oaks then expand their buds, and if these retain vitality at all it is only in the end of May, when the excess of moisture has disappeared, that they can burst forth, and then the delicate buds are exposed to the summer heat, and they succumb to the scorching sun of July. The maritime pine has also its buds ; and the period of its vege- tation is also reduced by about two months by the stagnant waters ; and by the ground ever passing through the alternation between exces- sive drought and excessive moisture, this tree also suffers in its growth, and on spots which do not become dry until the middle of summer it does not grow at all. The importance of effects produced by the ortstein, of which men- tion has previously been made, under its local designation, alios, calls for some additional information being given in regard to it. In writing of the Water Supply in South Africa, I have had occa- sion to refer to an impermeable layer in the sands of Xamaqualand and other districts operating as does the ortstein here. There travellers, when driven to extremity for water, have found, on hollowing out a basin in the sand, that at a little depth they reached a layer of other matter ; and after a time, more or less protracted, water collected in this basin, draining thither from and through the permeable sand, and retained there by the impermeable stratum, often not thicker than a penny, formed probably of clay, lime, and other matter washed down from the superincumbent sand. It is impermeable to water ; 84 SAND-WASTES OP FRANCE. but great care has to be taken not to fracture it, as whenever this happens the water is lost, draining off to a lower depth. In the Landes the stratum of impermeable matter spoken of by Herr Wessley, and there known as alios, contains iron in its composi- tion ; it has been spoken of as bog-iron-ore, and has been mentioned (ante p. 66) under this name among the products of the Landes exhibited by M. Leopold Javal. The origin of this has been discussed by M. Faye, Director-General of the Administration of Forests in France, in a paper which appeared in the translation of the Academie des sciences, from a notice of which, in the Athenaeum, it appears that M. Faye was engaged to level a portion of the Landes between the lakes on the coast and the basin of Arcachon, and made use of the opportunity to study the peculiarities of the soil. According to this notice : " At about three feet below the surface of the Landes, there lies every- where an impermeable stratum called alios, a stony substance of a brown colour, variable in thickness, which is nowhere great, and covering an indefinite bed of sand, identical with that which lies above it. This invisible waterproof stratum has always had a great influence on the health of the inhabitants of the country. Retaining the pro- ducts of vegetable decomposition from the upper soil, where there was scarcely any slope, the alios has for centuries fixed intermittent fever in and around the Landes ; but reclamation has driven away the fever, and the alios seems now to have no other effect than that of forcing the roots of the marine pines to grow horizontally instead of vertically. The sand of the Landes is white, intermixed with a few black grains, containing peroxide of iron and oxide of manganesia. Washed, first by the water of the ocean, and afterwards by rain for centuries, it holds no soluble matter, and the alios, which is of a dark reddish brown colour, sufficiently compact to require a pick-axe to break it up, is a stratum of the same sand cemented together by some organic and slightly ferruginous substance. In the summer a hole made in the soil down to the alios fills gradually by lateral infiltration with yellowish water not fit for drinking ; but if the alios is pierced an abundant supply of perfectly limpid water is obtained. " The question is — How is this alios formed 1 It is evident that it was produced in situ, and the presence of the organic matter already mentioned leads to the supposition that the latter plays some part in the formation of this peculiar stratum. " The alios is found everywhere in the Landes except in the marshes, on the banks of ponds, and in the downs, even when the latter, FORMATION OF THE ALIOS. 85 protected by old forests, have never been swept by the winds for centuries. Soundings, and the knowledge of these exceptions, led M. Faye to the discovery of the mode in which the alios was formed. In winter and early spring the nearly level surface of the Landes is covered with rain-water, but during summer the level of this water descends by evaporation, to the depth of one or two metres, a level which also corresponds with that of the ponds which border the chain of downs. If now we take into consideration the decomposition of vegetable matter which takes place in the water, and the deposit which must be produced at the lower level, it is easy to see why an agglomeration of sand and organic matter should take place at the depth already mentioned. This operation being repeated annually during many centuries, an increasing stratum of alios is naturally formed, which doubtless continues to grow at the present moment. " It is not surprising then that no alios is to be found in the marshes which are always under water, nor in the downs which are not inundated, like the Landes, by a periodical sheet of water carried off regularly by evaporation, the rain as it falls being earned away by the slopes to the sea. "But Whence come the traces of ferruginous matter which aid in the agglomeration of the alios and in giving it its red tint 1 It was shown long ago that the decomposition of roots and other vegetable matter brings the peroxide of iron contained in the soil into a state of inferior oxidation, and renders it liable to be attacked by the weak acids resulting from vegetable decay; more recently, M. Daubree attributed the formation of the limonitic iron of the Swedish lakes to this chemical action, showing that iron thus rendered soluble over great areas is collected together by springs and rivulets, re-assumes its primitive oxidation, when the waters come in contact with the air, and is then deposited in the form of slime, and forms mineral strata of great richness. The same effect, but produced on the spot, would account for the small quantity of iron found in the alios. Vegetable decay has, in fact, produced in places the identical effect on the blackish portions of the sand of the Landes ; where a fall in the level has caused a great accumulation of water there has been a concen- tration of iron, and in past times a certain number of furnaces worked up the iron, which is now exhausted. " M. Faye, having explained the origin of alios, showed what effect an impermeable subsoil has on the salubrity of a district ; the escape of the water is stopped, the subsoil becomes a centre of putrefaction and infection, and endemic malaria devastates the country. In the 86 SAND-WASTES OP PRANCE. Landes the evil has been remedied by cutting rather deep drains to carry off the water, and the roots of fern and other plants, which partly perish every year, have been replaced by those of the maritime pine. Thus the contamination of the air by the subsoil has been stopped, and with it the intermittent fevers which had given to the inhabitants a peculiar character of debility. M. Faye, after much observation, arrives at what he believes to be a principle, namely, that wherever an impermeable subsoil is found at a depth of two or three feet from the surface there will always be intermittent fever if the soil be contaminated by vegetable putridity, and fevers of a typhoidal character if animal decomposition be present. As to the remedy, it consists evidently either in draining, as adopted in the Landes, or in the removal of the vegetable or animal decomposition." But of this stratum, Marsh says : " The alios, which, from its colour and consistence, was supposed to be a ferruginous formation, appears from recent observations to contain little iron, and to owe most of its peculiar properties to vegetable elements carried down into the soil by the percolation of rain-water. See Revue des Eaux et Forets, for 1870, p. 301." Whatever the source of the material and the process of its forma- tion, the effects of its presence on the moisture of the sand-wastes and on vegetation there is great. And from what has been advanced it appears that, in so far as moisture is concerned, dunes and sand plains are not always so devoid of water as they seem, and as the common expression Dry Sand would suggest. Marsh, in connection with a remark made by himself, in which he says in regard to sand hillocks : " it is observed that from capillary attraction, evaporation from lower strata, and retention of rain-water, they are always moist a little below the surface," cites in a foot-note the following observations : " Dunes are always full of water, from the action of capillary attraction. Upon the summits one seldom needs to dig more than a foot to find the sand moist ; and in the depressions fresh water is met with near the surface. Forchhammer in Leonhard und Bronn for 1841, p. 5. " On the other hand, Andresen, who has very carefully investi- gated this as well as all other dune phenomena, maintains that the humidity of the sand ridges cannot be derived from capillary attraction. He found by experiment that a heap of drift sand was not moistened to a greater height than eight and a half inches, after ABSORPTION OP WATER. 87 standing with its base a whole night in water. He states the mean minimum of water contained by the sand of the dunes one foot below the surface, after a long drought, at two per cent. ; the maximum, after a rainy month, at four per cent. At greater depths the quantity is larger. The hygroscopicity of the sand of the coast of Jutland he found to be 33 per cent., by measure, or 21*5 by weight. The annual precipitation on that coast is 27 inches, and, as the evaporation is about the same, he argues that rain-water does not penetrate far beneath the surface of the dunes, and concludes that their humidity can be explained only by the evaporation from below. Om Klit formationen, pp. 106-110. " In the dunes of Algeria water is so abundant that wells are constantly dug in them at high points on their surface. They are sunk to the depth of three or four metres only, and the water rises to the height of a metre in them. Laurent. Memoire sur le Sahara, pp. 11, 12, 13. " The same writer observes (p. 14), that the hollows on the dunes are planted with palms which find moisture enough a little below the surface. It would hence seem that the proposal to fix the dunes which are supposed to threaten the Suez Canal, by planting the maritime pine and other trees upon them, is not altogether so absurd as it has been thought to be by some of those distinguished philan- thropists of other nations who were distressed with fears that French capitalists would lose the money they had invested in that great undertaking. " Ponds of water are often found in the depressions between the sand hills of the dune chains in the North American desert." I have had occasion, in the volume on " Reboisement in France," to refer to certain experiments by.Thurmann, in which cubes of different minerals, thoroughly dried, weighing each 100 grammes, were im- mersed in water for five minutes. He states that these gave the follow- ing results : — Liassic triassic, compact Jurassic, liassic triassic, and oolithic limestones, granite, serpentine, basalt, dolerites, trachytes, &c, gave a mean absorption of 0-50 grammes of water. Similar mine- rals, including gneiss and compact marl schist somewhat disinteg- rated and changed, gave a mean absorption of 1-50 grammes ; lime- stone still further decomposed, ferruginous oolites of Mt. Jura, liassic schists and grits from the Vosges, and eruptive rocks perceptibly changed, a mean absorption of 4 grammes ; variegated grits, green coloured grits, calcareous chalks, gravelly clay, and sands, 7 grammes ; and clays, Oxford marls, and kaolin, an absorption of from 10 to 30 grammes. 88 SAND-WASTES OP FRANCE. These observations, I there stated, Marchand considered indi- cative of the absorption of water being proportional to the state of sub-division of the material composing- the rock ; and this effect he resolved into their hygroscopicity and their capillarity — the former, the power of each molecule of the rock to retain around it a layer of moisture difficult to withdraw — the latter, the property possessed by many molecules of earth, to retain, in interstices by which they are separated, small globules of water. From experiments and observations cited by Wessley, it appears that, of all the constituents of soil, sand manifests the least capa- bility of absorbing water into its composition. According to experiments by Schuebler, recorded in his Agricultur- Chemie (1830), a cubic metre of the following substance contained of water the quantities stated : Kilogrammes. Quartz sand, 499 Pure grey clay, 875 Fine carbonate of lime, 808 Humid acid, 935 Field earth, 745 Garden earth, 821 The size of the grains of sand has an influence, and the capability of absorbing moisture is increased with the fineness of the grains, — but much more by the admixture of clay and lime, and most of all by the addition of humid acid. Pure quartz sand has no power of attracting moisture from the atmosphere, but it gains this power by the admixture of other sub- stances ; and the operation is promoted by the reduction of the size of the grains. According to statements in Heyer's Forstliche Bodenhunde, founded on investigations by Schuebler, 5 grammes of the following sub- stances spread out over 360 square centimetres, attracted from the air in 72 hours the affixed number of centi-grammes ; and the pro- portions would have been the same whatever weight had been taken : Pure quartz sand, Pure grey clay, Powdered carbonate of lime, Humid acid, Field earth, Garden earth, In Weight. In volume •25 •50 ■70 •87 •85 •81 . 1-90 •94 •52 •75 •89 •82 24-5 17-5 60- 11-6 26- MOISTURE OP SAND. 89 Again we find the effect intensified most of all by the admixture of humus, the operation of which is some three-fold that of clay and lime. Sand again is desiccated more rapidly than the other sub- stances mentioned. According to Schuebler, of 100 parts of absorbed water, reduced to the extent of 90 parts by exposure to a temperature of 15°, these substances yielded it up in the following times stated : In one hour. In four hours. Pure quartz sand, 4-07 8S-4 Pure clay, 11-28 31-9 Powdered lime, 12-83 28- Humid acid, 17-55 20-5 Field earth, 11-25 32- Garden earth, 14-82 24-3 Further, it has been found by experiments by Kerner, that the finer the sand the longer does it retain moisture. And the observa- tions cited show, that while this property is increased by an admixture of clay or lime, it is increased most of all by an admixture of humus. The rainfall sinks quickly into porous sand. When rain falls slowly we find no puddles ; the rain is drawn off to feed subterranean waters, while, when it falls in deluges, it falls faster than it can sink, and, instead of flowing away over the surface, it flows away, carrying the sand with it, and often depositing this on ground at a lower level, to its utter devastation. The coarser the sand the more quickly is it permeated by water. Kerner, in experiments, found the time to vary with this from two to twenty minutes. With sand soil manured for agriculture it is otherwise. Grouven found, on experiments with turnip ground of diluvial sand, that in two hours 72 grammes of water dropped through an 8-inch layer, but he found the quantity in five other specimens to range from 15 to 62 grammes only ; while in five others it was doubled, ranging from 117 to 119 grammes; while in four other specimens it was fourfold as much, ranging from 261 to 286. The capillary attraction manifested by sand is remarkable. It not only operates quickly, but more quickly from below upward than water sinks from above downward when it falls in quantity. According to Meister, quoted by Mayer in his Agricultui'-Chemie, 1871, the ascent of water by capillary attraction in different sub- stances was as follows : M 90 SAND-WASTES OP FRANCE. In \ an hour. In 2\ hours. In 21£ hours. Clayey soil, 34 115 200 Humus, 40 114 177 Garden ground, 29 98 161 Quartz sand, 44 97 117 Peaty soil, 27 57 114 Sandy soil, 45 66 90 Chalky soil, 6 54 70 In consequence of this, it is remarked by Wessley, the level of the subterranean water stands high in drift sand layers ; and standing or running waters can with ease diffuse themselves sideways in sand layers. The power of absorbing nutritive elements of vegetation is possessed by sand in a degree remarkably limited in comparison with the degree in which it is possessed by other soil. According to experiments by Grouven, 1,000 grammes of pressed northern diluvial sand, field soil absorbed : Of potash, ... ... ... 24*1 Of ammonia, ... ... ... 18*6 Of phosphoric acid, ... ... 6*4 And the same quantity of loamy northern diluvial sand, field soil absorbed : Of potash, ... ... ... 22-5 Of ammonia, ... ... ... 21*5 Of phosphoric acid, ... ... 2 1'5 While 22 samples of turnip field soil of different kinds absorbed : Of potash, ... ... from 66 to 137 Of ammonia, ... ... from 35 to 134 Of phosphoric acid, ... from 32 to 135 The power of absorbing ammonia from the atmosphere is, we see, possessed in the lowest degree by sand. Clay, mergel, and humus surpass all other soil in this. It is the same with the power of absorbing carbonic atmosphere from the air possessed by all of these substances in a wet state ; this is least of all in sand, but it exists in the greatest degree in humus. This power of the sand increases with the fineness of its particles ; it may be observed to be proportional to the minute sub-division of the bodies operated on, and this property may be intensified in the sand by the admixture with it of the other substances mentioned. COMPOSITION OF SAND. 91 The size of the grains of sand is very different in different places. The largest grains measure about a cubic millimetre, but the averages in different drift sands vary from 0"02 millimetres to 0*47. The coarsest sands in Europe are those of the Northern Binnen Sands ; those of the strand are disproportionately finer ; in sand basins the particles are finest in the direction in which the diluvial waters found their exit ; the sand is finer in dunes than in the blown out hollows between them; and in an extensive sand-waste the particles are finer at the extremity towards which the wind blows than at that by which it comes. The size of the particles has an influence, we have seen, not only on the degree to which it is liable to drift, but in the degree in which it may manifest many properties important to soil, amongst others, those of retaining moisture, one which is absolutely necessary to vegetation. In accordance with what has been advanced is the testimony of Clave : "Composed of pure sand resting on an impermeable stratum called alios, the soil of the Landes was for centuries," writes Clave\* " considered incapable of cultivation. Parched in summer, drowned in winter, it produced only ferns, rushes, and heath, and scarcely furnished pasturage for a few half starved flocks. To crown its miseries, this plain was continually threatened by the encroachments of the dunes, vast ridges of sand thrown up by the waves, for a distance of more than fifty leagues along the coast, and continually renewed, were driven inland by the west wind ; and as they rolled over the plain they buried the soil and the hamlets, overcame all resistance, and advanced with fearful regularity. The whole province seemed doomed to certain destruction when Bremontier invented his method of fixing the dunes by plantations of the maritime pine." The mobility of the sand is also most effectually arrested and prevented by moisture, and it is only renewed as desiccation takes place. It may have been remarked that the sand on the sea-shore does not begin to drift so long as it is moist — that it only does so when it has become thoroughly dry ; and that it ceases so soon as it is again moistened, whether by rain or by the rising tide. But what is mainly contemplated here is simply to show how it comes to pass * Etudes Forestieres, p. 250. See also Reclus. La Terre, L, 105-106. 92 SAND-WASTES OF FRANCE. that vegetation can be extended over sand-wastes — even moisture existing there. The alios is met with in the sands of the Landes of the Gironde, at a depth of about three feet below the surface. It is often about a foot in thickness, and underneath this is sand of unknown depth. Diggings have been made to a depth of upwards of 60 feet without reaching other material. In the winter season these Landes are covered with water which has no fall, and cannot sink through this layer ; but in summer neither pool nor moisture is to be seen, the water having been evaporated, and the layer preventing an ascent of moisture from below. But, as has been intimated, there are spots where this stratum is awanting or has been broken, and on these grow bushes and trees, the ground neither being drenched in winter nor altogether devoid of moisture in summer. Both in connection with notices of the drift sands of the Landes on the coast, and of the sand-wastes of La Sologne, mention has been made of peat lands and of marshes. These are found on sand-wastes in so many lands that the existence of them in such lands appears to be the rule, and the absence of them the exception. Suffice it here to state that a sand ridge may prevent escape of the waters by flow, and a stratum of alios or ortstein, or clay, or other impervious substance, may prevent escape by percolation. From the treatise by Herr Wessley entitled, Der Europaische Flngsand und seine Kultv/r already cited, much information may be gathered in regard to the composition and condition of the sand- wastes of Europe. In regard to the general appearance and composition of the drift sands of Europe, he says that in all places they consist in a vastly preponderating degree of fine somewhat rounded grains of quartz, with which only a small percentage of other materials are com- mingled. The admixture consists primarily of felspar, which in old sand has for the most part experienced the disintegrating and decomposing effects of weathering, of lime, mostly fragments of shells \ of mica ; of magnetic, or Titanian ironstone; and finally, of different other minerals, hornblend, augite, hypersthen, basalt, and carbon. The separate grains are more or less covered with a fine mould, on which depends next the fertility of the drift sands. For this depends in general on an admixture of products of the weathering just spoken of, or on those which the sand, the natural vegetation SPECIFIC GRAVITY OP SAND. 93 and watering, or the culture, produces or attracts, of appropriate nutriment of plants. The drift sand, strictly speaking, though variegated by a sprinkling of somewhat rare grains of darker coloured substances, is a mass of a light colour. Amongst the lightest coloured is the washed out sand of the north, which is of a greyish white. Amongst the darkest is the drift sand of the Bannat in Hungary, covered with a strong mould containing iron, which is of a yellowish light brown. In a wet state all drift sands are of a dark hue. So far as the surface is acquiring or has acquired a covering of vegetation of some years standing, it appears of a darker colour, varying with the kind of plant, with the richness of the vegetation in humus, and with the age of this, varying, for example, from a light grey brown to a black brown hue. Many drift sands have also an admixture of a coarser form of sand, which on sea strand dunes is as large as pearls, and in inland situations goes indefinitely beyond this : round pieces, even to the size of blocks ; concretions of lime of the most varied forms ; shells of snails and of mussels; cemented clods; and the whole layer is hardened like stone. These larger sized materials are altogether absent in the wind-raised dunes. Such is the European drift sand in general. In individual cases, however, the character varies with the district, the origin and the thickness of the layer, and the transformations occasioned by geological changes, by vegetation, &c. He reports the specific gravity of the different constituents, which, with the exception of the humus, which, on the authority of experi- ments by Schuebler, recorded in his Agricultur-Chemie, he gives as 1 "370, ranges from 2*468 to 2-722; and he shows that the differences between 1*370 and 2-468 of specific gravity in sands, may be attri- buted to varying quantities of humus or products of vegetable decay in their composition. As the result of numerous detailed experiments cited in an appendix embracing the composition of sands existing in numerous parts of Germany and Austria, he gives the specific gravity of the sands of North Germany as 2*5-2*9; average, 2*7; of the sands of Hungary, as 2*1-2*65 ; average, 2*5 : attributing the greater weight of the former to the smaller quantity of lime, and the greater quantity of iron-ore, and mica in their composition. And, for comparison, he gives, on the authority of M. Schuebler, the specific gravity of arable laud generally as 2-401, and of garden ground as 2"332 ; and on the authority of Hauer, that of the celebrated fields of Banat as 1*8-2 *5 ; average, 1*18. 94 SAND-WASTES OF FRANCE. The coherence of sands of varied composition, as determined by Schnebler and others, give the following result : " Taking perfectly dry, pure quartz sand as zero, a mixture of 4 per cent, of water gives it so much consistency that it may be pressed in the hand and cease to be driven of the wind ; and this latter result follows an admixture of 4 per cent, of clay or 16 per cent, of lime, or 10 per cent, of humus. But what is thus gained by an admixture of humus, clay or lime, is lost by its being frozen in a moist state, on its being thawed, a peculiarity which it shares with all soils. This, if it be so, may be attributable to the affinity of these sub- stances for moisture, of which sand has little or none, leading to their absorbing all the free moisture, and leaving the quartzose sand dry and free to be blown away. The commixture of lime and of clay with sand, so beneficial to the latter, has also this bad effect when it is considerable — that after heavy rains, followed by rapid desiccation, sometimes there is left on the surface of the sand a crust detrimental to vegetation. Pure sand does not shrink in bulk in drying. The following table, prepared in accordance with observations re- ceived by Schuebler, will make apparent the difference between pure sand and other earthy matters : Pure sand loses in bulk in drying, Fine carbonate of lime, Pure clay, Humid acid, ... Field earth, ... Garden earth, The latter numbers are indicative of there being contained in these bodies, as found on sandy regions, an admixture of humus or of clay. Reference has been made to the effect of moisture in arresting and in preventing the drifting of sand. In view of the effect of heat in desiccating sand, and also in view of the effect of temperature on vegetation, the degree in which the properties of absorbing and of transmitting heat are possessed by sand deserve consideration. The following results of experiments by Schuebler show the com- parative capability of becoming heated possessed by sand. In the month of August, with an atmospheric temperature in the shade of from 22° to 25° R., 81° to 88° Fahr., the temperature of the following substances exposed to the bright sunshine were, according to the scale of Reaumeur : per cent. 5 „ 183 „ 20 „ 12 „ 15 „ Wet. Dry. 37-2 44-7 37-4 44-6 397 47-4 36-9 44-2 37-5 45-2 TEMPERATURE OF SAND. 95 Quartz sand, pure yellowish grey in colour, 37*2 Pure clay, yellowish grey, Humid acid, brownish black, Field earth, grey, Garden earth, blackish grey, This table shows, first, that the power of becoming heated possessed by pure sand may be appreciably increased by an admix- ture of humus, apparently in consequence of the dark colour of this substance. The dry sand becomes heated some 21°, and the wet 13° R., 79° and 61° Fahr. above the temperature of the atmosphere; and while the sand is a bad conductor of heat, the heat does not penetrate to a great depth ; much more is communicated by conduc- tion and radiation to the superincumbent stratum of air. Kerner found on still warmer days than these on which Schuebler experi- mented that the temperature of drift-sand at Pesth half an inch below the superficial stratum was only 40° odds, and at three inches deep only 25° odds. The faculty of retaining heat, or, in other words, the rapidity with which it is discharged, is something different from the capability of absorbing it, and the result of experiment by Schuebler, shows that representing the time required for cooling by lime as 100, the time required by other substances compared with it was as follows : Quartz sand, ... ... ... 96 Pure clay, ... ... ... ... 67 Fine carbonate of lime, ... ... 61 Humid acid,... ... ... ... 49 Field earth,... ... ... ... 70 Garden earth, ... ... ... 65 After sunset the temperature of the superficial layers of the drift sand sinks very rapidly. Kerner saw on a broiling day in June, on the drift sand at Pesth, a thermometer sunk half an inch deep, which at sunshine showed 35|°, within three hours had sunk to 16°, from 112* to 68° Fahr. The most superficial layer of the Hungarian drift sand shows the extraordinary great variation of temperature of from 40° to 45° R., 122° to 133° Fahr. But at the depth of only three inches the variation is only 25°, or 88° Fahr., and at four inches, at which depth the temperature in winter does not sink below the freezing point, the vai-iation of temperature does not exceed 20°, 77° Fahr. But at the depth of three fathoms the annual variation does not 96 SAND-WASTES OP FRANCE. amount to |° or 1° Fahr., and at that depth, at the elevation of about 300 feet above the sea level, the temperature is almost stationary at 10° R, or 541° Fahr. By directing our attention to the sand drifts of Sologne, and the sand drifts of the Landes of Gascony, we find we have had two different phases of sand drifts bi-ought under our consideration ; and as these two phases of these are to be met with again and again, sometimes in the same countries elsewhere, or the one and the other of them presenting themselves in lands which are far apart, the opportunity may be taken, before proceeding further, to consider at some length an important point in which they differ. Of the two forms of sand deposit thus brought under considera- tion, " The one," to quote Marsh, " is that of dune or shifting hillock upon the coast ; the other that of barren plain in the interior. The coast dunes are composed of sand washed up from the depths of the sea by the waves, and heaped in more or less rounded knolls and undulating ridges by the winds. The sand with which many plains are covered appears sometimes to have been deposited upon them while they were yet submerged beneath the sea ; sometimes to have been drifted from the sea coast and scattered over them by wind currents ; sometimes to have been washed upon them by running water. In these latter cases, the deposit, though in itself considerable, is comparatively narrow in extent, and irregular in distribution, while in the former it is often evenly spread over a very wide surface. "In all great bodies of either sort, the silicious grains are the principal constituent, though, when not resulting from the disintegra- tion of silicious rocks and still remaining in place, they are generally accompanied with a greater or less admixture of other mineral particles, and of animal and vegetable remains; and they are also usually somewhat changed in consistence by the ever varying conditions of temperature and moisture to which they have been exposed since their deposit. Unless the proportion of these latter ingredients is so lai'ge as to create a considerable adhesiveness in the mass, in which case it can no longer properly be called sand, it is infertile, and, if not charged with water, it is partially agglutinated by iron, lime, or other cement, or confined by alluvion resting upon it. It is much inclined to drift, whenever by any chance the vegetable network which in most cases thinly clothes it, and at the same time confines it, is broken. " Human industry has not only fixed the flying dunes by plan- tations ; but by mixing clay and other tenacious earths with the TERTIARY SANDS. 97 superficial stratum of extensive sand plains, and by the application of fertilizing substances, it has made them abundantly productive of vegetable life." From the information supplied, it appears that many inland expanses of sand drifts may be considered a resuscitation of sand deposits, which may have been quiescent for ages, fixed naturally by a similar mantle of vegetation to that by which man is artificially arresting and utilizing the same sand drifts or others situated elsewhere. With sand drifts on the sea coast it is to a great extent otherwise, though in some, even of these, there may be seen a resuscitation of sand previously partially fixed by vegetation in some of the earlier stages of the operation whereby extensive regions of sand dunes have for ages been confined. Several of these are spoken of as belonging to the Tertiary forma tion, in explanation of which tei'rn it may be stated : Geologists, in classifying the stratified layers of mineral substances covering the granite, consider that those of gneiss, and schist, and clay slates, were first deposited, and these are described by them as primary formations. Following these in order, and in many cases superimposed on them, are sandy slates, Silurian limestones, and what is known as the old red sandstone. These are described by them as transition formations. They are followed by mountain lime- stone, coal beds, magnesian limestone, new red sandstone, shell lime- stone, lias limestone, oolite limestone, chalk beds, and green sand ; and these are designated secondary formations. Above these are found blue and plastic clays, marls, and limestones, sands, and calcareous grits ; and these are spoken of as tertiary formations ; and above this, indicative of a later deposit, are diluvial clay deposited from seas or lakes, and boulders, alluvial clay deposited by rivers, and sand and gravel ; and overlying these, the vegetable soil resulting from the decomposition of vegetable mould, and the admixture of the products with the superficial mineral layer. From this it appears that the sand now spoken of is supposed to have been deposited in times long past. An account has been given, cited from Boitel, of the way in which, on the Landes of La Sologne, heaths on these old sands are planted with the maritime pine. In other inland situations we find these sands of the tertiary formation throughout extensive districts covered with forests of trees of other kinds, varying according to conditions and circumstances — such, for example, is the famous forest N 98 SAND-WASTES OP FRANCE. of Fontainbleau, visited constantly by many of the visitors to Paris. The forest of Fontainbleau covers an area of about 64 square miles. But it by no means corresponds with the idea generally entertained of a forest ; it is anything but an old, shadowy, leafy, and almost impervious forest. To quote the description given of it by Mangin : " Despite its enormous trees, its rudely broken surface, its stags and roebucks, reserved for imperial sport ; despite its few adders and problematical vipers, it is now little better than a rendezvous for amateur artists and listless idlers. Its well-kept avenues resound with rapid wheels, and you can scarcely stir a step without finding the associations of the place interrupted by the stalls of vendors of cakes, or the apparatus of itinerant gamblers — a profanation to be regretted, for the forest exhibits many landscapes of surpassing interest in the rocks of Frauchart, the glens of Apremont, and, above all, that Sahara in miniature, the sands of Arbonue." An article by M. Clave in the Revue des Deux Mondes for May, 1863, on La Foret de Fontainbleau, contains much valuable and interesting information in regard to this forest, and in regard to matters connected with it. " Oaks," says he, " mingled with birches in due proportion, may arrive at the age of five or six hundred years in full vigour, and they attain dimensions which I have never seen surpassed ; when, however, they are wholly unmixed with other trees they begin to decay, and die at the top at the age of forty or fifty years, like men old before their time, weary of the world, and long- ing to quit it. This has been observed in most of the oak planta- tions of which I have spoken, and they have not been able to attain to full growth. When the vegetation was perceived to languish, they were cut, in the hope that the new shoots would succeed better than the original trees ; and, in fact, they appeared to be recovering for the first few years. But the shoots were attacked with the same decay, and the operation had to be renewed at shorter and shorter intervals, until at last it was found necessary to treat as coppice-woods plantations originally designed for the full grown system. Nor was this all : the soil, periodically bared by those cuttings, became im- poverished, and less suited to the growth of the oak. ... It was then proposed to introduce the pine, and plant with it the vacancies and glades. ... By this means the forest was saved from the ruin which threatened it, and now more than 10,000 acres of pines from fifteen to thirty years old are disseminated at various points, sometimes intermixed with broad-leaved trees, sometimes forming groves by themselves." INDIGENOUS FORESTS. 99 The soil of the forest of Fontainbleau is composed almost entirely of sand, interspersed with ledges of rock. The sand forms ninety- eight per cent, of the earth, and it is almost without water j it would be a driftiug desert but for the trees growing and artifically propa- gated upon it. In reference to such superficial sand formations, the following remarks are made by Wessley : " It is scarcely to be supposed that all inland sand drifts have been lying exposed, and drifted about since anti-diluvian times. On the contrary, we find almost everywhere that diluvial sands, by a slow but ever advancing natural process, become gradually covered with herbage, and ultimately with bush or forest, whereby they become so fixed as to be unmoved by the wind. And this process goes on all the more rapidly if man do not disturb it — if he do not promote it. " And what has been effected thus in pre-historic times, is both denser and more during that what has been effected in later years : as the soil of that is richer in humus than is any planted by the hand of man. And these oldest plant-bearing sands may be described, as we sometimes describe nations, as the aboriginal vegetation of the ground on which they are found." Such seems to be the case with the oak forest of Fontainbleau. Other forests growing indigenously on sands of the tertiary formation might be cited ; but it is considered that one case of such is sufficient to show that forests may be produced and grow permanently on sands, and to give some idea of appearances pro- duced by these. What was at one time in the world's history, the natural state of these lands of La Sologne, a country more or less covered with forest trees, is what sylviculture is seeking to reproduce there, and to pro- duce artificially on the Landes of Gascony and elsewhere ; and what has been effected by self-sown seed may be effected again by artificial culture, if the natural history of the trees employed be known. We have seen the good effect with which this has been done in Belgium, and on the Landes of the Gironde and of Gascony ; and with what similar effect it has been done on the Landes of La Sologne. By Jules Clave, a student of forest science of world-wide fame, it is stated in a paper in the Revue des Deux Jfondes for March, 1866, that the district of Sologne, flat and marshy as it is, was salubrious until its forests were felled. It then became pestilential, but of late years its healthfulness has been restored with its forest plantations. CHAPTER IX. Natural History and General Culture op the Scotch Fir ih France. Of the trees spoken of as cultivated on the sand-wastes of France, the principal are the maritime pine (pinus maritima), and the Scotch fir (pinus sylvestris), the former on the new dunes and drift sands of the coast, the latter on the more consolidated old sand-wastes of the tertiary formation in the interior of the country. Besides these have been mentioned several varieties of the oak, the birch, and the chestnut, as grown on spots of greater or lesser extent within these sand-wastes ; and in other countries a much greater variety of trees are raised upon sands and sandy soil. But it is the pine plantations alone of which this volume treats. Mention has also been made of the modern system of forest management having been adopted in France ; the Fachwerke Methode of Hartig and Cotta, known in France as La methode des compartiments, whereby are secured in combination a sustained production of material by the forest, a progressive improvement of the state of the forest, and a natural reproduction of it from self-sown seed. As this method of forest management, now practised generally on the continent of Europe, and of late years introduced iuto the management of forests in the Indian Empire, differs entirely from the system known as Jardinage, followed in some of our colonies, and in what are called policies in Britain, and from the method a tire et aire, previously practised in France, resembling in some respects the method adopted with plantations of coniferous trees in Scotland, the following details are given in view of its application to the different species of pine trees grown on the sand -wastes of France. And on the assumption that it may be more acceptable to my readers, as well as in more perfect keeping with all besides advanced in the volume, that I should give the natural history of the trees mentioned as this is given in France than as it is given elsewhere, I shall follow this course. Of the Pinus Sylvestris, the Pin Sylvestre of France, M M., Lorentz, and Parade, wrote in a volume entitled, Corns elementaire de culture DESCRIPTION OF THE TREE. 101 des Bois cree a VEcole Forestiere de Nancy. " This tree, the Pinus sylvestris, of Linnoeus, is known under numerous names — the wild pine, the pine of the north, of Riga, of Hagenau, and of Geneva, the pinasse, &c, and it is one of which the red pine or Scotch pine is only a variety, recognisable by its shorter leaves, by its cones being smaller and grouped in whorls, and by the reddish tinge of its young shoots. It constitutes the principal tree in a great many forests of considerable extent in which it is found mixed with the oak and birch. "Climate, Situation, and Fxposicre. — The temperate climates are those in which it manifests greatest vigour of growth ; but cold coun- tries are not inimical to it, for in the north of Europe, in Russia more especially, and in Sweden, it acquires most valuable qualities and dimensions, and by itself alone covers great extents of country. It grows on the plain as well as on slopes ; but high elevations do not suit it. In these situations the snow and hoar-frost accumulate in great quantities on its leaves, and that to a greater degree than on the other resinous trees of cold countries, whereby often branches are torn off, and sometimes the trunk itself is broken. " It succeeds on all exposures, not exclusive of the full south, when it is undertaken to replenish wide spaces, or deteriorated forests with a south exposure. It is a tree greatly in demand, not only because it is satisfied with a poor and dry soil, but because the young plants better sustain the sun's heat than do those of the other coniferae." But they remark that in saying this they are only speakiug of the more temperate districts of France ; that the departments in the south of France have other trees which grow there, such as the maritime pine, and the Alleppo pine ; and that it is probable that the pin sylvestre would succeed ill there unless at elevations at which the heat is less intense. It is mentioned that in the Pyrenees it is found at an altitude of 1,200 metres. " Terrain, or Soil. — It demands a deep light soil, it is found even on sand entirely devoid of cohesion, and the wood produced on such ground is of better quality than is that grown on more substantial soil ; compact earths are unfriendly to it ; and, although it does succeed on marls, its growth on these is much inferior to what it is on silicious ground. " It is sometimes found on moist and turfy spots ; but its vegetation there is in a languishing condition, and it there presents itself ordinarily in so peculiar an aspect that it has been taken for a totally different species of tree. " Flowering and Fructification, — The flowers are monoeceous ; they appear in April or in May, according to the temperature. 102 NATURAL HISTORY OP SCOTCH FIR. " The strobile or cone remains very small during the first year of its appearance. In the following spring it begins to enlarge, and it attains its full development towards the end of summer. It is ripe in the beginning of November ; but it does not open its scales to allow the seed to escape until the spring following, so it requires in all at least eighteen months to ripen, or about two years to mature and drop the seed. " The first warmth of the spring acts on the cones ; the scales open without detaching themselves from the axis, and thus they allow the seed to escape ; this is small and winged. " The tree attains its complete fertility towards the fortieth year of its age ; the fruit appears about every two or three years. " Young Plants. — These are very robust from their first appearance; but they do not stand a protracted shade. In general they may be reared without shelter ; but on ground which is very dry, or with a complete southern exposure, it would be beneficial to have them shaded during the first year of their growth. " Leafage. — The leaves are somewhat long ; but as they rarely re- main on the tree above three years, it follows that it creates only a lightish shade. " Roots. — These are strong and disposed to bury themselves. When the soil permits the tap-root descends a metre or more, although a less depth can suffice to ensure the tree a pretty fine vegetation. In ground which is moist, or poor, or deficient in depth, the tap-root disappears almost entirely, and the lateral roots run along the surface and manifest a disposition, as do some other coniferae, to introduce and fix themselves in the fissures of rocks ; but this super- ficial growth of the roots is not so favourable to the growth of the tree. " Growth and Longevity. — The vegetation is very rapid from the first years of its growth ; when the soil is adapted to it, it lengthens sometimes in its youth a metre or more per annum. It lives for 200 years, and attains to a height of 33 metres and more, with a diameter of from 1 metre to 1 metre 20 centimetres at the base." I have met with few trees more extensively diffused over Europe than is this. I have met with it in different countries under different names, but the tree was the same, and the botanical designation everywhere the same. The specific sameness of varieties or sub- varieties presenting very different appearances, has been demonstrated by M. de Vilmorin, on property belonging to him at Barres, in the l'eCOLE FORESTIERE DEB BARRES. 103 department of the Loiret, which is now maintained by the Govern- ment as LEcole Forestihe des Barres. This, strictly speaking, is a Forest School ; while that at Nancy, strictly speaking, is a School of Forestry. The designation Ecole ForestiZre, or Forest School, was given to the establishment apparently in contradistinction, on the one hand, to Nursery, a designation borrowed from domestic life ; and in contra- distinction, on the other hand, to a plantation or forest, it being a collection of trees raised from seed obtained from forests, or from nurserymen and seedsmen of note, and reared with a view to the study of their habits, their identity, and their differences. The design of M. de Vilmorin and the results of his operation we learn from himself. He died in March, 1862, a venerable man, full of years and of honour, — Membre de la Societe Imperiale et Centrale d 'Agricidture de France, and Correspondent de Vlnstitut. The Bureau de la Societe d! Agriculture, in collecting documents, of which they might avail themselves in preparing a historical notice of their honoured colleague, learned that he had written a history of his experiments, and procured from his family a copy of this docu- ment, with permission to publish it in their memoirs. In the introduction to this record, which related exclusively to this establishment, which was only one of many experiments and related researches with which his valuable life was occupied, he says : — " The work or treatise, of which this is but the first part, has for its object to report collected observations made during a long course of years on the trees composing the collection forestiere, which I have made on my estate of Barres. Studies of this kind have at this day a much greater interest for France than they ever have had before. " The forests which, in a former day covered a great part of her territory, are, if not entirely destroyed, at least so much reduced that the products are far below her actual requirements. " For a long time now France has been dependent on the foreigner for a considerable portion of the timber requisite for the maintenance of her navy, and more especially for wood suitable for masts. Throughout nearly the whole of the last century masts for the navy were only to be found in the Baltic ports, and chiefly in Riga, and now that timber of very great dimensions fit for this purpose is only to be obtained at great price, we find it necessary to draw a great portion of our supplies from the United States. 104 NATURAL HISTORY OF SCOTCH FIR. " This condition of things is not only a heavy burden on the treasury, but it may become matter of grave concern in case of eventualities against which it is necessary to provide. " France, by the single fact of her geographical position, with her two hundred leagues of coast on two seas, with her colonies, and Algeria, and her distant commerce to protect in all parts of the world, cannot avoid being a maritime power of the first order — it is one of the necessaries of her existence. She can no more relieve her- self of an imposing naval force than of an army. " But for the construction and maintenance of numerous vessels of war, it is needful that she be able to find on her own soil the needed timber. " Those portions of the soil which have been conquered from the forest by agriculture cannot be recovered. But France still possesses considerable resources besides these. For instance, a large extent of the mountains have been despoiled of forests ; the re-covering of these with trees is acknowledged by every one to be an urgent and indispensable measure ; besides, there are hundreds of thousands of hectares in one district of the west and of the south central France which have continued hitherto in a state approaching utter unproductiveness, which are capable of bearing beautiful timber forests of resinous trees. It is on these lands, and by the employ- ment for the purpose of resinous trees, and more particularly of pines, that we must operate to restore our forests. And it is at this point especially that a knowledge of the different species of pines, and of their principal varieties, becomes important ; we may, indeed, according as we employ one or other of these, create on the same soil forests of the poorest or of the greatest value. " This holds true especially of the Pinus Sylvestris. " In the greater part of the woods of resinous trees formed on a pretty large scale in Maine, in some parts of Brittany, and more recently in Sologne, it is to the Pimis Maritima that a preference has been given, because its growth is rapid, successful culture is easily ensured, and the seed is abundant and cheap ; but, as is known to all foresters, the Pinus Sylvestris is capable of furnishing products infinitely superior in quality, in dimensions, and in value to those which can be obtained from the Pinus Maritima. And in connection with this subject there is a question which it is very important should be resolved, it is that relating to the relation of the Riga pine and the varieties of the Pinus Sylvestris. The comparative culture, on the same land, of trees, of which it is desired to determine the i/fcOLE FORESTIERE DBS BARRES. 105 identity or the difference, is what I have undertaken and carried into execution, as may be seen by statistical details relative to these species. " I have brought together, in clumps more or less extensive, according to their importance, the pinus sylvestris of every variety indicated by authors, and all those which, by whatever name known, it appeared to me might prove useful in this collection. In regard to the Riga pine, I have not been confined to a solitary lot : independent of seeds which I procured from the north, from sources the most certain, wherever I had knowledge of old plantations in France, known or presumed to have had the same origin, I have managed to obtain seeds or plants which, added to the lots introduced, directly furnished the means of studying further the question. " These plantations have had for their special object the solution of numerous questions of botany and of forest economy, of which some are of great importance to France. " Commenced thirty years ago, and with this view, and augmented every year since, they form now perhaps one of the most interesting and most useful collections of this kind in any country. They com- prise, amongst other species, an assemblage of more than thirty lots of the pinus sylvestris, obtained from as many different quarters and sources, for the study of the varieties of the species, and more particularly of the mast pines, or Riga pine, of absolutely certain origin, planted to admit of comparison with other varieties of the pinus sylvestris, by means of which might be cleared away the doubts which have hitherto existed in regard to this tree, so im- portant for naval architecture ; an ecole of pinus mugho, pinus pumilio, and pinus uncinata, a necessary complement to the other in view of forest study ; all the pines of the series of the Laricios, trees of great interest in sylviculture, but trees in regard to which there exists at this time in books great confusion. The clumps of this series constitute one of the most beautiful portions of the plan- tations at Barres ; one variety hitherto little known, the Laricio of Calabria, commands attention by its great vigour and beauty, as does also the Pine of the Pyrenees, a very beautiful tree of recent intro- duction ; a plantation of Cedar of Lebanon, growing r«8&o&Uy among the pines, is thriving well ; a collection of the forest oaks of South America, amongst which the most important, such as the Quercitron, the Red Oak, &c, have established themselves in massive plots; plantations of American Nuts, of Bouleau & Canot, of the Alnus Cordifolia, and of other exotic trees, the qualities of which and their O 106 NATURAL HISTORY OF SCOTCH FIR. vegetation on the soil of France cannot yet be known, from the limited numbers under cultivation; plantations of various oaks, particularly schools of oaks of Europe and of Asia, amongst which are worthy of note, Quercus Fastigiata, Gerris, Tauzi, Aegilops or Velani, in the avenues and borders ; some new and remarkable poplars, &c. " These plantations, if not complete, at least very extensive, will furnish to the man of science and to the practical man great means of study. The opinion, on this subject, of foresters and of dis- tinguished agrinomes who have visited them have almost made it obligatory to publish the results I have obtained ; and, having to some extent anticipated this, I fulfil the duty now with the more satisfaction, seeing that my conviction has always been in accordance with that which has been expressed to me. To make plantations of this sort fulfil the design of them, or to have the chance of doing so, supposing they should exist their full terms, it is necessary that the lots of which they are composed should be found with ease and with certainty when those who have created them shall be no more : for this every necessary arrangement has been made." As has been stated, the one principal object aimed at by M. Vilmorin in the establishment of this Experimental Forest was to determine the varieties of the pinus sylvestris and the properties of each, with their adaptation for culture in different districts of France; but other trees received also a large share of his attention. I had the privilege of visiting the plantation and seeing it under the guidance of M. Henri Vilmorin, grandson of the founder, the honoured representative of three successive generations of noble-minded men, who distinguished themselves in this field of labour. Of the Scotch Fir (Pinus Sylvestris) there were rows of trees, raised from seed or seedlings received from different parts of the Continent and from Scotland, representing thirty varieties or sub-varieties of the tree ; and rows of other coniferae, representing the products of nearly a hundred different parcels of seeds or seedlings received from various parts of the world ; rows of oaks, representing the products of upwards of sixty different parcels of acorns and seedlings collected from all quarters ; and rows, or one or more single trees, representing upwards of a hundred and fifty other hard-wood trees. There were in all some two hundred and twenty-five different species and varieties of trees, and numerous specimens of some of these, selected, some for l'ecole forestiere des barres. 107 their worth, some for their renown, and some for purposes of com- parison and experiment ; and they were planted alone or in clumps as might be necessary to bring out their characteristic points. Since the death of M. Vilmorin, the founder, the portion of his estate containing the experimental forest has been purchased by the Government, that it may be maintained as a national establishment. Of the pinus sylvestris, M. Vilmorin reports : — " Of the different questions which I have proposed to myself to solve, by means of the Barres plantations, none is more important from a practical point of view than that concerning the varieties oi pinus sylvestris. " At the sametime there is not one on which more contradictory, and sometimes inexact, notions are to be found in books ; so I shall be obliged, before proceeding to the direct observations which I give, to enter into rather full preliminary observations in regard to It. It is an unhappy necessity, but circumstances render it inevitable. " It being of importance that this should be well understood, I shall first speak of the pine and whence it comes. I shall then show the principal opinions advanced on this subject, stopping at those which, establishing errors essentially hurtful in practice, demand dis- cussion ; then, lastly, I shall arrive at the special work which is the object of this memoir — viz., the examination of the collection which I have gathered together at Barres. " The pinus sylvestris, the most widely diffused of those which form the pine forests of Europe and the north of Asia, is at the same time one of the best and most useful. Robust, and somewhat indifferent in regard to soil, it succeeds in sands too damp, and in situations too much exposed to frost for the maritime pine, and, by a remarkable contrast, on lime and chalk soils, where the latter cannot live. " Its wood, strong and durable, at the same time light and elastic, is much used in civil and naval constructions, for it is principally it which furnishes the excellent pine masts of the north, of which no other pine offers the equivalent. " But with these remarkable qualities this tree has one peculiarity which tends to diminish its value, and which has created much con- fusion, in reports concerning it — viz., its being liable to change and vary to such a degree that perhaps nothing similar exists in any other species. " Thus, whilst in the forests of Russia aud Lithuania it attains the size of the largest firs, and furnishes admirable trunks, which sell in our ports and in those of England for from 1,000 to 5,000 francs and 108 NATURAL HISTORY OP SCOTCH FIR. more. A large number of the trees which grow in Switzerland and Germany are middling trees, badly formed, often incapable of fur- nishing even a passable plank ; in short, having no resemblance in anything to those of which we have just spoken. This great diversity of the pin%s sylvestris, noticed in the middle of the last century, has given place to questions and doubts regarding it on which opinions are still much divided. Some have thought that the pine or Scotch fir, as it was then called, did not form a single species as was pretty generally believed, but formed several which had been mistakenly united till then ; two or more have been described and named accordingly ; others have explained this diversity in the species by the existence of varieties or races which are reproduced in suc- cessive generations. Others rejecting every distinction of this nature have maintained that the differences, however great they may be, which are to be seen in the p'»»s sylvestris are entirely owing to the soil, to the climate, and to the influence of exterior circumstances. These contrary opinions have been often reproduced for nearly a centux-y, without deciding the question. It has even become more confused and complicated through the discussions, and it remains still almost entirely yet to be resolved. " As a fact, it is now almost generally admitted that the species is one, and that of this there are varieties. To every one is known, at least the names, Riga pine, Haguenau pine, and Scotch fir, &c, but if one seeks in books for the differences between these, they are not to be found ; there are also vague descriptions, or rather, what is worse, botanical descriptions which, under their precise and scientific form, are inexact and contradicted by the trees themselves, when one tries the application on a sufficient number of specimens which are unlike. Such an uncertainty is evidently troublesome and injurious on an essentially practical subject. It is more so than ever now, when the condition of forests in France naturally entails that the culture of pines should be considerably increased, and that, on the other side, the pinus sylvestris, more appreciated than formerly, begins to be associated with the maritime pine, or even to replace it in the construction of composition of woods of resinous trees. It is then evidently necessary to arrive at some notions more precise than those which have existed till now in regard to it. " The English have advanced far before us in the culture of the pinus sylvestris. It is in England also that the remarkable differences between the individuals of this species have been remarked. The first printed notice is to be found in a treatise on forest trees, l'^colb forestiere des barres. 109 published in 1760, by a great Scottish, proprietor, the Earl of Haddington. " Here is what he says on the subject : " ' Although I have been assured that there is only oue species of Scotch fir, and that the differences which are to be found in the wood of these trees are due only to their age, and the soil in which they have grown, I am nevertheless convinced that it is otherwise, and here is the reason. When I ordered the pines planted by my father to be cut down because they were too near the house, several men still lived who remembered to have seen them reared. The seed had been sown in the same bed, removed to the nursery, and after- wards planted on the same day. Then I saw that when I cut the trees, I found that some had white and spongy wood, and others red hard wood, and they were examined within a few days of each other. This observation has had such an effect on me that I have ordered the cones to be only gathered from the reddest trees.' " It is a very remarkable thing that the first observation which was made on this question has pointed out the solution, the truest, in my opinion at least, first as to the principle that natural varieties exist independant of the soil and climate, and then as to the practice, that in choosing between two varieties, the one good and the other bad, only the first should be chosen for reproduction. " One might say that these two ideas of the Earl of Haddington contain a complete theory and practice in connection with this great question of the spontaneous variation of species applied to the wants of man, and to the advancement of rural economy. In France, where the question was opened rather later than in England, it has been much more discussed : the botanists have interfered, and each has settled it in his own way. Bosc, in studying the pinus sylvestris, thought he had discovered four very distinct types, which he has described as so many species : first, the pinus sylvestris, properly so called ; second, the Scotch fir ; third, the Riga pine, or pine suitable for masts; fourth, that of Geneva or Tartary. This opinion not having been adopted by any one, except in regard to the Scotch fir, I will not discuss it. But another opinion, which it is more necessary to combat, is that which places the pinus sylvestris on the one side, and the pinus rubra of Miller on the other. It has been supported principally by M. Deslongchamps, and by M. de Candolle. With the authority which these two names give to it, especially that of M. de Candolle, or rather because of this, I feel that I must combat it, being convinced that it is an error. 110 NATURAL HISTORY OF SCOTCH FIR. " The first remark to be made is, that Miller never pretended in establishing his species, pinus rubra, to make any distinction from the pinus sylvestris of the authors who preceded him ; it is only a new name, which, for some reason, he has given to this species. The sentences from Ray, from Bauhin, from Duhamel, which they quote as synonymous, leave no doubt as to this. Nevertheless, the pinus rubra of Miller, by a singular error, has been regarded as a second species, made by him in the pinus sylvestris. This fact may be explained naturally enough by the following circumstances : At the same time that he established the pinus sylvestris under the name pinus rubra, Miller almost beside it described another species under the name pinus sylvestris, and among the numerous synonymes which he assigns to the latter is to be found pinus sylvestris, No. 471, Bauhin, wild pine of Geneva. For all readers, a little hasty in forming a judgment, and there is no lack of such even among botanists, there was here an indication, or even an evident proof that Miller had established two species in the pinus sylvestris. Now, when one reads the text even of the article relative to his No. 1, he sees that the latter is no other than the maritime pine, or pine of Bordeaux. In spite of the evidence of this fact, the contrary version has prevailed, and some botanists, having to treat of the pines, have adopted as distinct the two species, pinus sylvestris and pinus rubra. This basis adopted, it was necessary to find characteristics for the latter ; now Miller did not furnish any, as with him the pinus rubra being identical with the pinus sylvestris of all authors, he had applied to it the characteristics of the latter. " Hence have come distinctions which I will not call imaginary, for doubtless they are applicable to individuals, but certainly not to all, nor do they possess the generality or the comprehensiveness of specific descriptions. " This may be judged of by the examination which I am going to make of the characteristics attributed to the P. rubra in the new Duhamel and in the French Flora. " Differences between P. sylvestris and P. rubra. — Let us quote the new Duhamel : " First, the wood of the first is rather reddish — no observations to make on this point. " Second, the leaves are in general of a more glaucous green. " There are in my plantation several lots of the P. rubra of the north, coming from different provinces of Russia, and as well characterised as possible. Their leaves are plainly less glaucous than L'fcOLB FORESTIERE DBS BARRE8. Ill those of the common P. sylvestris of France and of Germany, planted comparatively near them. " Third, their cones are almost always arranged in whorls of three, four, and five ; according to the same author, in the sylvestris they are often by twos. I have many times, in all the lots of sylvestris in the school, counted as many cones. " I have constantly found in all, however different they may be, some individuals with one, two, or three cones, very rarely with four : nay more, this variety is often to be found on the same tree, some branches bearing single cones, whilst on others they are grouped by twos or threes. I have also noticed that this varies decidedly on one tree in different years, apparently according to whether the flowering has taken place during favourable weather or not. This characteristic then is of no use whatever. " Fourth, the projecting part of the scales form a more decided pyramid in the P. rubra, and the lozenge formed by its base has its greatest diameter in the vertical direction. " In the P. sylvestris, on the contrary, the greatest diameter of the lozenge, according to the same author, is horizontal. " I have made, with a view to recognise the characteristics, nume- rous examinations of the cones coming from different trees belonging to the two supposed species, and here is what I discovered — first, that the projection of the scales, though variable in both, formed a much less decided pyramid in the cones of the P. rubra than in those of the P. sylvestris, which is precisely the contrary of what the author says ; second, that in the same lot, either of P. sylvestris or of P. rubra, and sometimes on the same tree, the greatest diameter was sometimes in a vertical and sometimes in a horizontal direction, so that this characteristic is useless as a means of specific verification. " Fifth, Bosc and De Candolle give as characteristic to their Scotch fir, or P. rubra, that it has the young sprouts red. " Now the most freely planted lots of the red pine of the north in my school are, on the contrary, distinguished by the tender green of their sprouts in the spring. I have besides amongst my lots a con- siderable number of Scotch firs coming directly from Scotland. The trees in it are extremely varied in character. One finds among them types of all the P. sylvestris possible, except the specimens with red sprouts, which, far from being in the majority, are only met with as rare exceptions ; the great mass have green shoots. " Besides, if Miller had recognised this as a characteristic of his P. rubra, he would have given it, and he says nothing of it. It is not 112 NATURAL HISTORY OP SCOTCH FIR. then from this that the author must have taken this specific name. Apparently it was for him only a translation and introduction into botanical language of the name of the pine or red fir (red deal), under which it is generally known in the trade, and in the ports of England, and the Baltic, the wood of the P. sylvestris coming from Russia and Lithuania. The result of this description is that the P. rubra cannot be admitted as distinct and separate from the sylvestris." There follow details of the varieties of trees composing VEcole des Pins sylvestre, with the observations made. Of these details the following is a free translation in which I have deemed it expedient to alter in some places the order in which some of the trees are described, and to abbreviate or abridge in some cases the details given : " This collection is composed of all the specimens of the pinus sylvestris of different districts and countries I could procure. I sought especially that it should comprise those in regard to which doubts and discussions have arisen, and still more especially those which having received the names of varieties are more generally regarded as distinct. The Pin de mdture, or red pine of the north, and those of Hagenau, of Scotland, and of Geneva, have supplied in this respect the first foundation of the plantation ; and the first of these (le pin de mdture), mast pines, the red pine of the north, those of Hagenau, of Scotland, and of Geneva, the basis of the plantation. The first of these (le pin de mdture) being the most important, is that in regard to which I have exerted myself to multiply as much as possible the means of studying. Through the assistance of my connections, and the obliging co-operation of many French and Russian amateurs, I have obtained from different provinces of Russia, and of Lithuania, celebrated for the production of these pines, seeds, the products of which are to be seen in the plantation. To these lots obtained thus direct from the localities have been added many others produced from plantations made in France, at previous times, the Russian origin of ■which was well established ; and further, with a view to multiplying as much as possible the means of comparison, I have added specimens of the pin sylvestre from different parts of France. "The whole presents a collection of some thirty lots, but to prevent the formation of an exaggerated idea of these, it may be stated that they are not all equal in strength, age, or extent, nor are they in some other respects susceptible of exact comparison ; they are on the contrary, unequal in the extreme. Some form masses more or l'ECOLE FORESTIERE DE8 BARRES. 113 less considerable, while others consist only of some single trees ; their ages range from that of ten or twelve years to that of thirty years and upwards. This inconvenience is inevitable in a creation of a plantation of this kind. To reduce as much as possible the dis- advantages of this inequality, I shall take care to indicate in the details given of each lot the differences which may have an influence on the actual appreciation of their character." In regard to his practical classification of the varieties in l'Ecole, he says : " The differences, be it between individuals or between masses growing together, sufficiently marked to enable one to find on them the distinctions of varieties are of two kinds : those which relate to the appearance and conformation of the tree, and those which relate to the botanic characters furnished by one or more of these characteristics, or to the appearance and conformation of their organs, cones, flowers, leaves, the chrys » state but they bury themselves at bat little depth, in order that the cfly may experience nog process of organic takes place in the chr requires, as is known, that the insects be pro: sted ag aridity; now the months of May and June in that year were remarkable for very intense heat and unbroken drought : the i soil of the pine wood great depth ; broiling hot, and the chrys:. ig unable to develope in that medium, became almost all abortive. Birth was given to few I flies ; and thence it followed there were few chenille?. Two circum- stances appear to me to justify fully this explanation : thes: first, in woods which were somewhat colder than others, and on margins adjacent to moist places, in the folio wiog year there were found nests in pr^ rg -eeond, since then, two other 184£ ad 1849, have been marked by an aridity which was. so to speak, exceptional ; and one result of this was, in the winter 1849-185 great list uces might be traversed without finding a single nest. In 1851 they ceased to be so rare, and I remember I prognosticated that this would be the case, in consequence of b me rains which fell in June and July, I " Thus a drought has sufficed to put an end to disquieting de* tions, against which man had no remedy, and to-day (1851), the number of chenilles p ifl reduced to one of no great magnitude ; they are, moreover, surrounded by so many enemies that they have for a 1: : be redoubtable. .-art from drought or other meteorological accident, the eke, ' proces- might have found, as has happened with other species, in their excessive multiplication itself the cause of ruin and mo: The number might have bee n that fool would have failed them before their complete de and then they would have perished of hunger before transformation." Such were the views advanced by II Perris. Vice-President of the la, and distinguished as an entomologist who had given special attention to the insects living on the maritime pine. DESTRUCTION OF TREES FOLLOWING CHARCOAL BURNING. 163 According to the views of M. Perris, in the destruction of many of the trees, they were enfeebled by the destruction of leaves and leaf- buds ; they were thus brought into an abnormal condition, and then, having become f re to lignivorous insects, they died in consequence of their ravages. And when other means than the primary ravages of the leaf devouring insects produce like effects to those thus produced by them, like consequences may follow. Sect. III. — Destructive Consequences following the Effects of Charcoal Burning. Professor Bagneris remarks in regard to a disease to be found in certain plantations : " Frequently a pine is seen to wither and die, and the disease then seems to spread in a circular form, the diameter of which gradually increases. I have not been able to find out the cause. In Sologne origins more or less imaginary were assigned to this. May not this disease be caused by a fungus attacking the woody tissue ? The form it assumes would lead one to suppose so, and the curative means employed strengthens the belief. In the Landes, a trench of - 70 metres in depth is dug all round the place attacked, and the circle of disease spreads no farther." The following observations throw additional light upon the phenomenon, and seem to reveal the origin of the evil ; if they do not determine also the question raised as to the possibility of a fungoid growth contributing towards the destructive result : " In the district of Orleans", says M. Boitel, " the maritime pine does not present that vigorous production which in the south it owes to a soil and a climate which are particularly favourable to it. The sands of the Sologne are often deficient in depth, and when thence it comes to passthat the tap-root of the maritime pine comes upon abed of tenacious and impermeable clay, the tree begins to languish, and its trunk and branches become covered with mosses and lichens. A good many pine woods find themselves in this condition when only fifteen years old. The trees stand out against the evil till they reach the age of twenty or five and twenty years ; but beyond that they become stationary, and if they do not necessitate exploitation they are liable to be invaded and destroyed by insects which become developed in innumerable swarms in the bark and the wood. ■ It has often fallen to my lot to ascertain and verify ravages thus 164 INJURIES OF MARITIME PINE. committed in the pineries of the Sologne, and more especially in the imperial domains, the forests of which have been under my direction for some time. In the Grillaire, an imperial domain in the vicinity of Motte-Beuvron, the lignivorous insects have carried out their ravages in the middle of an immense forest of pines from twenty to twenty- five years of age. The ravages had taken place simultaneously on a great number of points which served as centres to lacunes in the forest, the extent of which went on augmenting year by year in circular zones concentric with the primal circle ; and in the radii of these concentric circles the trees were more diseased in proportion to their proximity to the centre. " At the centre the trees had fallen and strewed the ground with heaps of their debris ; farther away they remained standing, but dried up in all their parts ; finally, at the extreme points of the circumference the leaves and the buds were beginning to get yellow, which announced the invasion of the insects ; and the presence of these it was not difficult to ascertain otherwise, on examining between the wood and the bark, where the wood was literally ploughed up by numerous galleries which the myriads of lignivorous insects had dug and inhabited. In the middle of these gaps, where not a maritime pine was left standing, there were to be seen here and there some Scotch firs, pinus sylvestris, which, respected by the insects, mani- fested an astonishing vigour alongside of the languishing condition of the maritime pine. " This fact," says he, " corroborates the opinion of M. Perris, who does not admit that lignivorous insects attack the trees in a healthy state. I accept willingly this opinion, supported besides, as it is, by numerous observations conscientiously made ; and I think, with the distinguished entomologist of Mont-de-Marsan, that the pineries of La Sologne would be spared by these insects if the pines found themselves in circumstances more favourable to their develop- ment. " In the Grillaire the circular lacunes ravaged by the insects pre- sent often an area of several hectares. The entire forest would have disappeared under the destructive action of these parasites if measures had not been taken to exploit them at once, and to forward the pro- duce to Paris. " It is noteworthy that there is found generally in the centre of each lacune charcoal debris, which marks the site of an old charcoal furnace. The pine is very sensible to the effects of fire and of smoke. In the forest of Villette (Loiret) the maritime pines are dead, from DESTRUCTION OF TREES FOLLOWING CHARCOAL BURNING. 165 having been exposed to the smoke of a brick kiln, from which they were distant about 50 metres. " Invariably, when there is established a charcoal kiln in the middle of a pinery, there are seen many circular ranges of pines, which, through the effect of the fire and of the smoke, become diseased, and they are not slow to dry up and perish. " These diseased and languishing pines become the cradle of lignivorous insects which invade the forest throughout its extent, if after having completed the work of destruction on the first trees in which they were developed, they find themselves in the middle of a miserable pinery, covered with mosses and lichens, the diseased con- dition of which is so favourable to the propagation of these parasites. " Sometimes, however, the ravages of the lignivorous insects manifest themselves notwithstanding that there are no charcoal furnaces there, or these are far distant. In these exceptional cases, in Sologne, the primary cause of the disease of the pineries can be attributed only to the humidity or to the unfavourable nature of the soil. " After the enfeebling influence which reduces the trees to an impoverished condition, comes that of the vegetable parasites, which carry on farther the enfeebling of the trees ; then come the insects which seize possession of a prey incapable of offering any resistance. According to some observations which I have made, it seems to me that the lignivorous insects occasionally allow themselves to precede those which betake themselves to the leaves, and buds, and young shoots. If this be the case, one may be siruck with the harmony which ranges among the causes which tend to destroy a vegetable from the time that it is in other than the normal conditions of development. First, the soil produces its effect, then follow the parasitic vegetables, and then the lignivorous insects, which, in arrest- ing the circulation of the sap, bring the final coup to the vegetable attacked in its every part. " There come into operation in Sologne yet other causes to favour the invasion of the pineries by* insects at the periods of the first thinnings. Great negligence is manifested in the operations earned on with a view to giving to the pine the air and light favourable to its development. " Pines growing too densely in their infancy famish one anothei', the more vigorous destroy the more feeble, which become thus the food of the insects ; at a later period, in the expectation that the expense of the thinning will be covered by the faggots obtained, or by the 166 INJURIES TO MARITIME PINE. manufacture of charcoal, there are carried on simultaneously and vigorously thinning and pruning, which give to the pine in super- abundance the air and the light of which up to that time it had been deprived. Is it astonishing that trees so ill-treated and mis-managed should experience a physiological disturbance which renders them diseased and accessible to the numerous insects, which, after having multiplied in the faggot, the cords of charcoal, and the twigs with which the ground remains strewed, find later on subjects perfectly prepared to receive them 1 " In all the circumstances of the case, the proprietors would find it for their interest in every way to secure to the trees that vigour and that health which defends them so well against the attacks of insects. They would ensure thus the duration of their pineries, and not expose them to premature decimation, which compels them to exploit them at an age at which it would be advantageous to maintain their con- servation. " Independently of these indirect evils occasioned to proprietors by insects, it is necessary to reckon also amongst the damages done by them those dead trees which rot upon the place, which can no longer serve for the making of charcoal, and it would be reckoned fraud to introduce that dead wood in the making up of the faggots, which, to possess the combustible qualities sought for by bakers, should be composed exclusively of living wood." He goes on to say : " The forester has an interest in making him- self well acquainted with the parasitic insects most hurtful to the pine, and in appreciating correctly the ravages committed by them, and the causes which tend to augment or to diminish these. The study of these will show to him that it is useful to give to the pines those periodical attentions which will ensure their vigour and success- ful growth ; and as soon as a devastating insect may appear on his pinery, he will know what redoubtable enemy he will have to combat, and what are the urgent measures imposed upon him with a view to the restriction and diminution of damages very prejudicial to his interests." And he speaks in high terms of the work by M. Pei-ris as supplying requisite instructions. Amongst other specimens of the products of the Landes. under the system of sylviculture adopted, exhibited in the Industrial Museum in Edinburgh, were specimens of wood cut up into galleries by the Bombyx pytiocampa, and other lignivorous insects, and specimens of the same restored to healthy growth by a process devised by Dr. DESTRUCTIVE RAVAGES BY THE MOLE. 167 Koberts, with specimens of wood treated by M. Courval for similar defects. Sect. IV. — Destructive Ravages occasioned by the Mole. Another source of trouble in such plantations of the maritime pine is the subterranean galleries created by the mole. In regard to this M. Boitel writes : " The mole is to be found everywhere in sand or clay, in dry or damp soil. Its operation seems to be measured by the opposition which the ground makes to its efforts. In light sandy ground it makes very long galleries ; it makes shorter ones where the clay is tenacious. It does not, however, dislike the latter kind of ground ; on the contrary, it prefers it, either on account of the solidity which it confers on the galleries, or on account of the abundance of earth worms in it. Although it can swim, and can easily protect its retreat from water, it does not inhabit low wet places, unless it finds some elevated spot in the midst of the surrounding moisture, such as the edge of a ditch, where it can construct a healthy and convenient nest. It delights in the soil of oases, sometimes found on the edge of bogs, which abound in earth worms. In general it does not care for bare exposed places; it prefers spots sheltered by walls, bushes, or trees. It seems to know instinctively that it is safe where its runs are hidden by vegetation. Mules hidden in the banks of ditches are hopeless to catch. It is easier to catch ten in a field than one under a hedge, or on the wooded banks of a ditch. " The mole is remarkably watchful and active. Its hearing is very acute, although its ears are hardly visible amidst its fur. It is frightened by the least noise. The mole-catcher, or the dog that wishes to capture it, must walk very gently else it will instantly dis- appear. It sees perfectly with eyes no larger than the head of a pin. It does not fear water, and can swim in order to reach a desired point. This explains how gardens surrounded with water are not exempt from its ravages. It is a solitary animal when adult. It is said that the female drives away the male from her nest. Moles only pair at one season, when two may sometimes be caught in the same trap. The female takes care of her brood for some time. With these exceptions the mole is eminently solitary. I have tried in vain to induce two moles of different sexes to live in a box filled with earth. They fought continually, and there was no peace until one was killed and partly eaten. The male wars against every in- 168 INJURIES TO MARITIME PINE. trader, and fights to the death with other moles, also with weasels and field mice. It is uncommon that both combatants survive. The weasel ever falls a victim. "Besides the runs and ordinary mole-hills, moles make large heaps of earth, under which are a kind of special nest, measuring from 0*15 metres, to 0-20 metres across. " These are made of the leaves of trees, dry grass, and the green leaves of cereals or other plants within their reach. When they can make a selection they prefer the withered leaves of the oak. They do not, as some say, pull down grass by the roots. They always put out their snouts to collect materials for their nests. They are wise enough to bring their materials from a distance for fear of discovering their retreat, especially when they cut down green corn. It is perfectly proved that everything required for their nests is brought from above ground, and that roots of plants are never made use of. " What is called improperly the mole's nest is only a warm and comfortable retreat, where it lives permanently and habitually. The males have their nests as well as the females. This habitation is the central point of all its operations, it is the spot most frequently visited. The mole reaches it by all kinds of ruus, both horizontal and vertical ; it contains its food magazines abundantly supplied with pieces of earth-worms still in life, so as to preserve them for a longer time. This animal, so active and strong in scraping, is never long without visiting its nest, it sleeps and eats there generally. It is often found warm when uncovered by the mattock. The most able mole-catchers have never surprised the mole in its nest. At the first sound they disappear in their deepest and best concealed runs. The nest is often renewed without the position being much changed. Under the same heap of earth may be found three or even four nests of different ages. The same mole has sometimes several central dwellings which it occupies irregularly so as to escape the snares of its enemies. The heap which conceals the nest is always larger than the usual mole heap, they are 0'50 metres in height, nearly 1 metre across. " The nest is not always under one of these large heaps which are so easily seen. Sometimes it is placed under an adjoining ordinary sized hill. The female usually makes use of this ruse so as to conceal her young. Nests placed under very large hills are what mole-catchers call false or male's nests. " The experienced mole-catcher can easily distinguish the nest of the female, because, not being so strong, they cannot throw up so DESTRUCTION OF MOLES. 169 much earth, and their mole-hills are smaller and flatter. The mole- hills furnish valuable indications. An experienced man can divine the sex of the animals from the appearance of the mole-hills ; amongst the numerous runs they can fix on the chief road between two im- portant centres, and the mole can hardly escape a trap placed where it must be passed a thousand times in a day. From these indications, the mole-catcher can deal with the females and young ones so as to suit his own interest, which he never fails to do when he is paid at so much per head. The female has in the year two litters of four or five each. Young moles produced in spring have a litter before the end of the first year. The first litter is produced in the month of April, and it is of great consequence to catch them at that time, as one mother caught means four or five less on the estate. The real nests can be easily detected, as we have said above. " I will now point out the best way of getting rid of them. Only a man trained specially will do any good ; others will not pursue the moles with the order, regularity, and intelligence necessary. The good mole-catcher knows the habits and instincts of the animal, and that preliminary knowledge will suggest modes of destruction which would escape any other person. "I am acquainted with one skilful mole-catcher; three times a year he comes from Normandy to work on some of the important estates in Sologne. From his zeal and activity, he seems born for the trade. He undertakes to destroy the moles at so much per head, or so much per hectare. If he receives 25 centimes a head (the usual price), he cares more for the number of his victims that for doing his work thoroughly. He tries to catch males rather than females, who are the hope of the future. On this point I may relate what happened to one of my neighbours with the mole-catcher in question. The first time he was employed, it was fixed that he should receive 25 centimes per mole. At the end of two days he brought eighty-nine moles, of which seventy-two were males. It was evident that the females had been spared. It is better to make arrangements by the quantity of ground. In Sologne 1 franc 50 centimes are given per hectare without food. "The skilful mole-catcher, when visiting his traps, keeps an attentive eye on the mole-hills and runs. Whenever he sees a mole disturbing the ground, he approaches slowly, with one stamp he inter- cepts the new run in such a way as to cut off all retreat, and one blow of the mattock secures his victim. The mattock is also used in getting Y 170 INJURIES TO MARITIME PINE. at the nests with young ones ; and it is used for sounding the earth and finding out runs." Sect. V. — Destructive Ravages by Forest Fires. M. Eloi Samanos, in his volume entitled Traitd de la Culture du Fin Maritime, to which reference has been made, remarks : " One of the greatest scourges to which a pine-wood plantation is exposed is beyond contradiction that of fire ; it reaches a height with such facility, and spreads with such fearful rapidity. " There is preserved in our district (apparently that of Cape Breton) the memory of a fire which devastated our forests, on an extent of from five and twenty to thirty kilometres; such occurrences may well suffice to create a most reasonable fear in proprietors, and to urge upon them the adoption of the greatest measures of precaution. " Such occurrences are almost always occasioned by workmen who light fires in the forest without seeing to these being completely extinguished ; they may also be occasioned by storms falling upon a forest, as happened in the imperial domain of Solferino. . . . " One precautionary measure against fire, adopted by some care- ful foresters, consists in separating resinous woods by planting broad bands of deciduous trees between them. " This has been carried out by the intelligent engineer, M. Crouzet, in the imperial domains of Solferino, under his direction, in which he has plantations of deciduous trees dividing the woods of maritime pines. By this means the fury of the fire at least is diminished, and it becomes easy to circumscribe and confine its ravages. "Besides this, there is one means employed in ourdistrict to combat conflagrations, known under the name of contre-feu. It is this : when the inhabitants have been congregated on the scene of the disaster, and they judge the extinction of the fire by direct means impossible, they go in the direction in which the fire is advancing, and at some distance from it, having armed themselves with well clothed pine branches, they form in line, and burning there the thorns, heaths, or other dry woods between them and the fire they prevent this fire from spreading in the different directions and smother it ; and this being done, the conflagration, on advancing to that place, finds no food for its continuation, and often dies out." To rely entirely on such means, M. Samanos considers inexpedient, and he says : " Plantations of deciduous trees ought also to be em- DESTRUCTION BY FOREST FIRES. 171 ployed amongst the precautions taken for the conservation of forests, and it is impossible to do too much to make known and to introduce such a measure." In accordance with this account of the contre-feu is the following statement by M. Bartro, in an article on the maritime pine in the Adour, a journal of Bayonne : " Resin-yielding forests are extremely combustible. Their soil is strewed with ferns, with brooms, and with dried leaves ; it is covered with trunks of trees, which distil resin, drops of which are seen every- where ; a single spark, or the wadding of a gun, may suffice to set the country on fire. When this misfortune happens the tocsin is sounded in the adjacent communes. The population arm themselves with shovels and hatchets ; they march under the leadership of the mayors, who direct the operations and compose a guard, the duty of which is to work themselves and to prevent desertion by the other workers. They note the wind under which the conflagration spreads, and regulate their procedure accordingly. By this combination of labours the fire finds itself encircled by the population of the different communes, who proceed to extinguish it, and, unless the wind be very strong, and carry the burning flakes behind the workers, in which case they are very much exposed to be themselves surrounded by the fire, they find it pretty easy to master it, and that they do thus : " The workers, one after another, furnish themselves with green and branching boughs ; they take their place at what is deemed a proper distance in line in front of the advancing fire ; they set fire to the ferns and other combustibles in front of them, which they extinguish, as they progressively advance toward the fire, by smiting them with their green branches, and covering them with earth by means of their shovels. This is what is called making a contre-feu When the fire comes it finds do food, and it is forced to go out. This is the only means of which use is made to stop the conflagration in forests of resinous trees." Boitel, in reference to this, compares it to the homoepathic treat- ment of disease by physicians acting on the principle — Like cures Like — it is fire extinguished by fire, and he goes on to say : " Forest fires would be less common if the police were less negli- gent ; if herdsmen, shepherds, resin-collectors, and woodmen did not take pleasure in lighting fires in the heart of the pignadas, or pine 172 INJURIES TO MARITIME PINE. forests, for the most trivial objects, the embers of which they keep constantly glowing to supply them with fire for their pipes, for their meture, a preparation of Indian corn, and to broil their salt fish and their sardines, culinary operations which ought to be attended to before leaving their homes. These fires in the open air are left burning on ground covered with combustible matter while the work- men go about their work. Is it surprising then that there should be so many fires 1 " Insurance companies bring themselves with difficulty to insure pignadas ; moreover, they cannot do otherwise than require a high premium, which the greater part of proprietors will not agree to pay. " The provident cultivator, who wishes to protect his forests against a general conflagration, takes the prudent precaution to interpose in his forest masses cultivated clearings sufficiently large to form a barrier which cannot be overleapt by the destructive scourge. This preventative costs less than the premium of insurance. " Forest fires occasion more damage in young pineries than in those which are in a state of decadence ; for the old trunks are not con- sumed by the fire, and they have lost nothing of their fitness to yield wood for carpentry work, and the employment of them in this way affords some indemnity to the proprietor ; it is otherwise with young pineries, which the fire destroys without giving any compensation." i