dhp D. li. liill ^Xib Nort!| (£aruUna l^talr (tallrgp 10 — AUG. 68 FORM 2 "^^.^^^yUoOxA^ UA THE COAL TAR COLOURS OF FARBWERKE VORM. MEISTER LUCIUS & BRUNING HOECHSTON MAIN GERMANY AND THEIR APPLICATION IN WOOL DYEING. FIRST VOLUME. SOLE AGENTS FOR THE U. S. A. H. A. METZ & CO: NEW YORK PROVIDENCE, R. I. ATLANTA, GA. BOSTON, MASS. CHICAGO, ILLS. NEWARK, N. J. PHILADELPHIA, PA. CHARLOTTE, N. C. MONTREAL-CANADA. ==^=^=^= 1910. = 1C99 Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from NCSU Libraries http://www.archive.org/details/coaltarcoloursof01meis PREFACE. in 1896, we published a small volume entitled, "The Coal Tar Colours of Farb- werke vorm. Meister Lucius & Brlining," which contained a survey of the dyestufifs produced by us at that time, arid of their application. Several years later we supplemented this work by our 'Tocket Manual". Since then both the Textile and the Coal Tar Colour Industries have under- gone such rapid development, and the number of dyestuffs has increased to such an extent that these earlier publications must in many respects be considered obsolete. In placing this new work before our friends, we beg to point out that it has been our endeavour to offer a comprehensive and up-to-date survey of our products used for the purposes of wool dyeing. We have divided this work into three parts. The first part contains in tabulated form, patterns of our standard wool colours, short notes on their appli- cation, and their fastness properties; in the second part the methods of wool dyeing are discussed in general, and the third part deals with the practical application of these dyestuffs for the various purposes of the industry, and is sub-divided according to the various stages of manufacture, viz; the dyeing of loose material, slubbing, yarn and pieces. In some cases repetitions could not be avoided, as it was our aim to make each chapter complete in itself, and thereby to increase the value of the work as a book of reference for everyday use. The wide experience gained in the constant intercourse and co-operation with our clients, has greatly assisted us in the compilation of this work, and we hope it will be a valuable and reliable guide for every wool dyer in the pursuit of his calling. HOECHST o. M., 1910. FARBWERKE VORMALS MEISTER LUCIUS & BRUNING. Contents of the first volume. Part I. Tabulated survey of the DyestufFs used in wool dyeing. p^ ^ Explanatory notes as regards fastness properties 3—12 Patterns, application, and fastness proper ties of wool colours 14 — 109 Acid Colours (Acid, Allcali Blue, Azo and Dianil Colours) 14 — 71 Resorcine Colours 72 — 73 Basic Colours 74—79 Developing Colours 80 — 97 Alizarine and Mordant Colours 98 — 109 Indigo 108—109 Part II. The general methods of wool dyeing. Introduction 113—116 The storing of dyestuffs 115 The dissolving of dyestuffs 115—116 Comparative strength of dyestuff in paste and powder 116 Dyeing in an acid bath (Acid, Azo and Dianil Colours) 117 — 122 Dyeing in an alkaline bath (Alkali Blue Colours) 123 Dyeing in an acetic acid bath (Resorcine Colours) 124 Dyeing in a neutral bath (Basic Colours) 125—126 Dyeing in an acid bath and developing with metal salts (Developing Colours) • 127 133 Dyeing on mordants (Alizarine and Mordant Colours) 184—141 Vat- dyeing (Indigo etc.) 142—154 Methods ofmodifyingthepropertiesofwool asregardsdyeing 155 — 157 Appendix:Cheniicalsusedinvvooldyeing 161—186 Weights, measures and other tables 187—196 In'^ex 197-201 Part I. Tabular Survey of the Dyestuffs used in Wool Dyeing. -- a®c^- This first part of our work contains a tabulated survey of all the dycstulfs employed in wool dyeing, commencing with the largest and most used series of the Acid and Azo Colours, including those Dianil Colours which are used for dyeing all wool goods, and following on with the kindred group of Alkali Blue, Resorcine, and Basic Dyestuffs In continuation, the Developing Colours, the Mordant Dyestuffs, and lastly, Indigo will be described. With the view to a further characterization of the several dyestuffs, a brief statement of the usual method of dyeing and of their sphere of employment has been added. Consi- dering the ever changing demands made upon the fastness properties of the colours, which vary very considerably, we append a series of tables showing in figures the degree ol fastness of each colour, arrived at by means of careful comparisons and experiments, and also taken from results of the practical experiences of our clients. These tables will greatly facilitate the choice amongst the great number of dj'estufts, and ensure a better and quicker judgment of their properties. We have made many experiments, basing them upon the practical application of the dyestuffs in the several industries, and have thus compiled a progressive comparison of the whole range of dj'estuffs, from the fastest down to the most fugitive; and have indicated the degrees and half degrees of fastness by the figures 1 — 5 and the intermediate numbers, in this manner, that the figure 1 shows the greatest, and the figure 5 the least fastness, and that e. g. the figure 3 — 4 is nearer to 3, whereas the fastness expressed by the figure 4 — :! is nearer to 4. The figures are arranged in tables, and form therefore a complete schedule by which all the dyestuffs can be compared direct with one another. It is, however, clear that our figures cannot be compared with other tables made from different standpoints. We hope that the abundant information we ofier will afford our clients considerable assistance in the selection of dyestuffs for any particular purpose. Having regard, however, to the uncertain idea of fastness, and to the varying conditions under which the many dyeing operations are carried out, it is necessary to state that the figures given by us — apart from errors that may have crept in through the great mass of material — must not be regarded as absolutely final, or meeting every possible contingency; but that, after all, the practical test of a dyestuff under the conditions necessary for any specific case can be the only proper measure of its suitability. Respecting the different divisions of our fastness tables, the following explanations will be useful: Equalizing. The equalizing property (as will be more fully elucidated later on, in discussing the general methods of dyeing and especially the dyeing in the acid bath) depends to a certain degree on the composition and cleanliness of the goods in question, but principally on the nature of the dyestuffs employed; it can be altered by changing the normal dyeing method so that, for example, badly equalizing dyestuffs can, in most cases, be improved by certain modifications, in a measure sufficient for all practical requirements. Tabular Survey of the Wool Dyestuffs The knowledge of the degree of the equalizing property of a dyestuflf serves in the first place to judge of its suitability or otherwise, for light, fancy or deep shades; and of its applicability to goods which equalize easily or with dilficulty (pieces, yarns, slabbing or loose material). In consideration of these varying requirements, we have distinguished between the following 5 principal classes: 1. The dyestufl' equalizes when dyed according to the normal method (10 "/o Glauber's Salt and 4''(o Sulphuric Acid or 10 "/o Tartar Substitute) upon all materials, even in the lightest shades, and in fresh baths, so that additions to the boiling d3'ebath can be made. 2. The dyestuff equalizes in normal acid baths at boiling heat, on sensitive materials, in dark to medium shades; in old baths small additions are permissible; upon less sensitive goods (slubbing and loose material) its equalizing property is sufficient in all cases. 3. The dyestuflf equalizes in normal acid baths in dark to medium shades, and may be added to old baths at the boil; it is not suitable, however, for the production of light fancy shades on sensitive materials, and in this instance must not be added to the baths during dyeing. — An increase of Glauber's Salt or a decrease of acid is advantageous; upon less sensitive goods, slubbing and loose material, its equalizing property is sufficient, under normal conditions, even for light shades. 4. The dyestufi equalizes upon sensitive goods in deep shades at the boil; for goods which equalize with difficulty, less acid and increased quantities of Glauber's Salt are required, and the goods are entered at a lower temperature; this procedure is advisable even for goods which equalize easily; but the colour is not suitable for shading at the boil. 5. The dyestufl" does not dye through or evenly upon goods equalizing with difficulty even when the method of dyeing is modified. Upon less sensitive goods, yarn, slubbing and hat bodies, great caution is necessary — they must be entered at a low temperature; the quantity of Glauber's Salt must be increased, weak acids must be used or the latter gradually liberated in the dyebath; the colour must be slowly exhausted by adding the acid very gradually during dyeing. Additions of the dyestufl' at the boil are not permissible. We have purposely omitted to include the equalizing properties of dyestufts which are dyed upon mordants; in their case the equalizing depends, in the first place, on the clean- liness of the goods, and on the evenness with which the mordant is deposited upon them; the actual dyeing operation, however, is of secondary consideration. Behaviour towards Cotton and Silk. Wool materials, especially piece goods - sometimes also yarns — often consist not only of wool, but contain eflect threads either twisted round the fibre or mixed with the wool, or as selvedges. These eflfects are mostly produced by means of cotton or other vegetable fibres of similar dyeing properties, such as artificial silk, ramie, flax, jute etc. They are generally undyed, but sometimes also used in colours, and in dyeing the wool, are required to retain as much as possible their original shade, so as to allow the eflect to be brought out distinctly. The behaviour of wool dycstufls towards these efl!"ect threads of vegetable nature, diflers according to their chemical constitution. Whilst some leave the cotton wholly un- touched, others will tint it more or' less, and these colours are then unsuitable for dyeing goods with white or coloured selvedges or eflects. The affinity of some wool dyestuffs for cotton is so great, that it is possible to dye both cotton and wool to an equally deep shade, provided the dyeing in an acid bath is replaced by that in a neutral salt bath. This property is most extensively utilized in the vast province of halfwool dyeing, to which we shall refer i n a special volumne. ExplaDation of the fastness numbers. Silk is more rarely used than cotton and other kindred vegetable fibres, in conjunction with wool, for the production of special effects. Owing to the lact that the chemical relations of silk and wool totally differ from those of cotton and wool, the behaviour of wool dyestuffs towards accompanying silk threads is different from that towards cotton effects. Here also various degrees of tinting the silk fibre are to be observed; in one case this may be an advantage, and in another case, a decided disadvantage. Having regard to these differences, which, however, may be modified to a certain extent (both^in goods with cotton and with silk effects) by changing the mode of dyeing, we have endeavoured to express in figures, the behaviour of the various dyestuffs towards accompanying cotton and silk, taking into consideration their usual method of application. The following remarks will explain these figures: a) Behaviour towards Cotton. 1. The dyestuff does not dye the cotton, even in full shades. 2. The dyestuff leaves traces of colour on the cotton in full shades, but the dyeing is so slight that the employment of the colour for dark shades is permissible. 3. The dyestuff leaves the cotton untouched in light shades, but shows a tendency to tint it in full shades; by using stronger acid baths, however, the dyestuft' is suitable still for goods with small effects. ■1. The dyestuff dyes the cotton perceptibly even in light shades, and is therefore unsuitable for goods which are intended to show these effects distinctly. 6. The cotton takes up the colour most readily; when dyeing in a neutral salt bath, instead of in an acid bath, the dyestuffs of this group dye both wool and cotton equally well (half-wool dyeing). Owing to their great affinity for the vegetable fibre, the dyestuft's of this group are sometimes used in order to produce certain coloured efl'ects in an acid bath. b) Behaviour towards .Silk. 1. The dyestuff leaves the silk untinted, and can, therefore, be used for all goods with white silk effects. 2. The dyestuff leaves the silk sufficiently white in light shades, and tints it slightly in full shades; in the latter case the colour may still be used for white effects, if treat- ed afterwards in a cleansing bath. 3. The silk is tinted considerably, though not as deeply as the wool ; it cannot however, be made sufficiently white by a cleansing bath even in light shades. 4. The silk is dyed equally, or nearly as deeply as the wool; it can therefore be em- ployed for dyeing both fibres equally deeply in wool and silk goods. 5. The dyestuff "dyes the silk more heavily than the wool, and therefore can be used in wool and silk goods for shading the dyestuffs designated with 4, or in combination with the dyestuffs under 1 and 2, for the production of two-coloured (shot) effects. Fastness to Rubbing. The fastness to rubbing decides the suitability of the dyestuft" for goods which are not washed with Fuller's Earth after dyeing, and is determined by rubbing the dyed goods, after rinsing them in water only, with a strip of white linen. The greater part of the Mordant, Alizarine, and some Chrome Dei^eloping Dyestuffs employed in fast wool dyeing, show relatively bad figures; but it by no means follows that these colours are insufficiently fast to rubbing when milled and washed with earth. The interpretation of the figures is as ollows : Tabular Survey of the Wool DyestufTs. 1. The colours do not rub, even in full shades. 2. The colours rub imperceptibly in light shades, but just noticeably in full shades. 3. The colours rub slightly in light shades and noticeably in full shades. 4. The colours rub considerably in medium shades. 6. The colours rub very considerably, and very perceptibly even in light shades. Fastness to light. To judge this important property we are dependent upon sunlight, varying vastly in its eflect, according to the seasons and the state of the weather. Many attempts have been made to discover an artificial source of light of unvarj'ing intensity and equal eflect, but have so far not met with succes. The figures are, conscquenth', only relative, being arrived at by liie comparative exposure to sunlight (facing south) of medium shades of equal depth and of equally deep blacks, during one summer month. The figures denote : 1. The colour has undergone no perceptible change after a month. These dyestufls meet practically all demands made upon them with regard to fastness to light and air, e. g. for carriage cloths, livery and army cloths. 2. The colours show a slight loss or change of shade after a month; they fulfil, as a rule, the demands usually made upon the better class men's suitings, for high- class decorative and tapestry goods etc. 3. The colours show a perceptible loss, or a considerable change of shade after a month; the change becomes noticeable after a fortnight's exposure. These dyestufls will generally suffice for men's cheap suitings, for better class ladies' dress goods, for acid dyed shades on carpet j'arns etc. 4. After 14 days' exposure to light, the colours show a great change or loss of depth. The degree of fastness is, however, generally sufficient for cheaper ladies' dress goods etc. 5. The colours show a considerable cliange after 3—7 days, and fade coniplettly after a month. These fugitive dyestufls may, nevertheless, be employed for ball dresses, hosiery yarns, fancy yarns and similar articles, which are never or only seldom exposed to sunlight. In judging the fastness to light, however, many circumstances must be considered which may tend to vary the results of practical tests, so that they seem to differ from the above classification and the figures assigned to the various dyestufls; i. e. the fastness to light nat- urally varies according to the depth of shade, and a dyestuff" marked in the tables with figure .1, may still be sufficiently fast in deep shades, to be used for the better class men's suitings, and might therefore have been denoted with 2; another dyestuft" marked 3 for medium shades, might not prove sufficiently fast when dyed in light fancy shades, e. g. on carpet yarns. Moreover, the composition of the goods, especially their surface, considerably influences the resistance of colours to the action of light. For instance, a firmly milled, smooth faced cloth generally shows a distinctly greater fastness to light than a raised, loose-textured flannel, dyed with the same dyestufi's, and to the same shade. This variation must evidently be attributed to the fact, that in the one case, the rays of light which are apt to destroy the dye- stufl", can enter more deeply into the cloth, and by dispersing within the same, can react upon the dycstulT much more energetically than in the other case, where the rays are mostly reflected from tlie firm smooth surface, and have, therefore, no destructive influence upon the colour. Similar causes must also account for the fact that goods containing much white cot- ton, e. g. the so-called MoulinOe-cloths, are distinctly more fugitive than all-wool goods of the same texture, which have been dyed to the same shades, with the same dyestufls. Obviously, the white cotton permits the rays of light to penetrate into the cloth, and act upon the dyestulT from within. Explanation of the fastness numbers. In testing the fastness of a colour as regards its suitability for a certain practical pur- pose, the fact^must be taken into consideration that by the action of light, some dyestuf!s fade,' i. e. become gradually lighter without changing the character of the shade; whilst others change the shade without suflering any noticeable loss of depth. Although this varying be- haviour cannot be expressed in figures, it is essential to know in which way the light acts on a certain dyestuff, before putting it to practical use. If a dyestuff, which by the action of light turns towards red, is mixed with a colour which changes its shade towards green, the resulting shade will seem faster to light than either of the colours dyed singly or in combi- nation \vith a third colour which does not change its shade, but fades; for in changing their shade they compensate each other. From all the foregoing data, it will be seen that the figures given in the following tables are merely a guide for judging the fastness to light, and that specific tests upon the various materials, furthermore, particular application and combination with other dyestuffs, and comparisons with colours of known fastness on the same material, can only be considered as conclusive as to whether a dyestuff is sufficiently fast to light for a set purpose or not. In conclusion, we may mention another fact which depends also on the action of light, but which, strictly speaking, cannot be included in the category of fastness to light. It is the phenomenon called insolation, to which some, especially yellow and orange dyestuffs, e. g. Fast Yellow and Milling Yellow, are particularly subject. If colours produced by such dyestuffs, especially fancy shades, in which a change of tone is easily noticed, are exposed to direct sunlight — or even to difiused daylight — the exposed places show, after a short time, often after a few minutes, a considerable change, the yellowness having more or less disappeared. On being removed from the influence of light, i. e. on being wrapped in paper impervious to light, or on being put into a dark place for a short time, the original colour will quickly return, but disappear once more on being ex- posed to daylight. A satisfactory explanation of this striking phenomenon has not yet been found; it is ■ probably due to an intermolecular displacement of the dyestuff molecule under the influence of sunlight, which, in the absence of light reassumes its original equilibrium. Not only has it been the aim of scientists to explain fully this insolation, but they have also tried, hitherto in vain, to find a remedy for it. It is therefore advisable not to use dyestuffs for light fancy shades which are particularly subject to insolation; on the other hand, they may be unhes- itatingly used for deep shades. Insolation is less troublesome in the dyehouse than e. g. in making up and in warehouses, for in examining a piece changed by insolation, it will often appear at first sight as if the edges have faded, whereas the normal shade will generally quickly re-appear. Fastness to steaming (decatising). The figures given in this column are to serve as a guide as to whether, and to what extent, the respective dyestuffs are affected by dry steaming. This operation is often carried out after dyeing, in order to enhance the lustre and handle of the goods. Dry steam, moreover, affects the colours in a similar manner to an alkaline treatment, probably owing to traces of basic compounds being split off from the wool fibre. In all cases where the goods are steamed immediately after dyeing and rinsing, they still retain so much acid, that no alkaline reaction, or only a very slight one, becomes apparent. If, however, the goods are subjected after dyeing to certain neutralizing operations, such as scouring, washing or milling, the alkaline reaction of dry steaming shows itself more strongly. In testing the fastness to steaming, we have adopted the procedure which is mostly followed in fast wool dyeing, viz: the dyed goods were first treated in diluted ammonia in order to neutralize completely all traces of acid, and then dry steamed for '/a hour under pressure of 1 atm. Consequently, to judge the fastness to steaming by our figures, for the 8 Tabular Survey of the Wool Dyesluffs. purposes of piece dyeing — where neutralizing by means of scouring and milling is less fre- quently, and at all events less energetically resorted to, than in fast wool dyeing — it is necessary to bear in mind that our figures denote a test which, in piece dyeing and especially in acid dyeing, need never, or only seldom be taken into consideration; that therefore, espe- cially for dyestufl's which are affected by alkalies, a high figure does not always preclude the suitability of this colour. Thus, the figures signify : 1. The shade does not alter, even when the goods are subjected after dyeing, first to severe milling and then to strong dry steaming; the dyestuff, therefore, suffices for all demands. 2. The shade becomes sligliily lighter, or changes its tone. Such a change is no dis- advantage with goods which are milled after dj-eing, as this circumstance can easily be taken into consideration in matching. When using ordinary acid dyestuffs, this figure indicates a fastness to dry steaming which is sufficient for all practical purposes. 3. A distinct change of depth of shade is apparent. In this case, the fastness can no longer be called sufficient for goods which are milled with soap after dyeing, consi- denng that these goods are generally subjected to a severe steaming. For acid dyeing, however, or if the goods are milled with acids, the dyestuff usually satisfies the demands made upon it. 4. A very considerable change is noticeable. The dyestuff' is still suitable for slight steaming, if the goods are not subjected to milling or any other alkaline treatment after dyeing. 5. The shade is entirely destroyed. The dyestuff is unsuitable for goods that have to undergo anj' process of steaming. Fastness to carbonizing. For carbonizing wool material, sulphuric acid is preferred to all other carbonizing ingredients, because it has the least injurious effect upon the quality of the goods. But there are many dyestuffs which do not sufficiently withstand carbonizing with sulphuric acid. In order, therefore, to test the fastness to carbonizing, the dyed goods were treated with sul- phuric acid of 4'/»° Tw. at 176° F; then rinsed in water, and finally neutralized with soda. Some dyestuffs, on leaving the carbonizing oven, change their shade considerably, but this change usually disappears almost completely after neutralizing the goods. We have therefore not taken this change into account, it being only a transitory one. Our figures denote : 1. The shade stands carbonizing with sulphuric acid without any change; no precaution need therefore be taken to the dyestuff. 2. The shade is slightly changed; this, however, does not prevent the carbonization with sulphuric acid, and can easily be taken into consideration when matching. 3. The shade is distinctly changed. Where exactness of shade is of importance, it is advisable to replace sulphuric acid by a milder carbonizing agent. 4. The shade changes in carbonizing with sulphuric acid by at least one colour of the spectrum. The employment of sulphuric acid is therefore excluded. Even milder agents change the tone visibly. 5. The shade is completely destroyed by sulphuric acid, and is also greatly changed by milder carbonizing ingredients. The dyestuff is altogether unsuitable for goods which are to be carbonized after dyeing. Fastness to stoving. In order to judge whether, and how far a dyestuff withstands stoving, and how far lighter decorative effects are acted upon by bleeding, we have plaited some dyed hanks with Explanation of the fastness numbers. white wool and cotton yarn: these plaits were then soaped, hydroextracted, and finally stoved for 12 hours in a sulphur chamber. The two columns under this heading refer to (a) change of shade and (b) bleeding into white; the figures signify: a) change of shade: 1. No change of shade; the dyestuflf is perfectly fast to stoving. 2. Slight change; the dyestuflf may, in most cases, be used unhesitatingly, especially for full shades. 3. Perceptible change of shade; the dyestuff is no longer suitable for severe stoving, but when necessany, will still resist slight stoving for the purpose of clearing the shade, and can generally be worked together with stoved material. 4. Considerable change of shade; the dyestuff is not suitable for stoved goods, and its employment in combination with stoved material must be carried out with caution, considering that not infrequently some sulphurous acid adheres to the latter, which is liable to give indications of its presence much later in storing the goods. 5. Entire change, or destruction of the shade; a simultaneous application with stoved material is impracticable. Even in packing goods which are dyed with these dyestuflfs, care must be taken not to let them come into contact with stoved material. b) bleeding into white. 1. Interwoven white parts remain entirely unaffected in stoving. 2. Even full shades bleed only slightly into white parts, without however damaging the elfect. 3. Medium to dark shades bleed appreciably into white; the dyestufl' is however still applicable in light shades. 4. Considerable bleeding takes place in medium to dark shades, and even light shades tint the white distinctly. 5. The colour bleeds into white to such an extent, that it can only be used for plain single coloured goods. Fastness to water. This test serves to judge the suitability of the dyestufts for milling with cold and hot water; for weak and strong wet steaming, and for potting; it was carried out in the following manner: The dyed goods, on to which some wool and cotton threads had been sewn, were boiled for an hour in ordinary Spring -water. Another sample was immersed in cold water for 12 hours. Bleeding into white alone was taken into consideration; any loss of shade was not taken into account. (This latter point will be dealt with under fastness to milling). The figures denote: 1. The colour does not bleed into white in boiling water; consequently, it is suitable where fastness to potting is desired. 2. The colour bleeds slightly in boiling water, but satisfies most demands, e. g. wet steaming of buckskins. 3. The colour does not bleed in cold water, not even in full shades, and is therelore suitable for milling with cold water, e. g. flannels, fancy fabrics etc. 4. Only light shades do not bleed when immersed in cold water; still the colour is suitable for goods with white wool or cotton effects, if rinsed etc. with proper care, i. e. they must not be rinsed too long, nor be allowed to lie too long in a wet state 5. The colour bleeds considerably in cold water; its employment is therefore not per- missible in combination with white or light decorative effects, in goods which are subjected to a wet treatment. lale 10 Tabular Siiney of llic Wiwl Dycsiuffs. Fastness to washing. The fastness to washing was tested by treating the dyed goods for half an hour at 140° and 212" F. with an alkaline soap solution (2 g soap and 0,5 g calc. soda per litre). 1. The colour withstands soaping at the boil without appreciable loss; the dyestufT is therefore suitable for all goods, for which the greatest possible fastness to washing is required. 2. The colour undergoes a perceptible change in soaping at the boil, but not at 140° F; this fastness suffices for belter class hosiery goods. 3. At 140° F. the colour withstands soaping without appreciable loss, but loses greatly at 212° F. This fastness suffices for ordinary knitting yarns, dyed with acid colours which are expected to stand normal home washing. 4. The colour loses considerablj' at 140° F. Dyestuffs showing this degree of fastness must not be used for goods which are' subjected to repeated washing, but can be employed for goods which {as e. g. dress materials) are only occasionally subjected to light washing for the purpose of cleaning stains, dirt etc. 5. The colour is stripped entirely, or nearly so, bj' soaping at 140° F; the dyestuft' is therefore unsuitable for goods whicii are to be washed at all. Fastness to Soda. This test serves to judge the resistance of a colour to scouring. It was carried out by putting a strip of the dyed material, to which white wool and cotton threads had been at- tached, into a soda solution of 3° Tw. for C hours. The two columns of figures under this heading refer to the change of shade and the bleeding into white. The figures denote: a) change o f s h a d e. 1. The shade shows no change; the dyestuff may therefore be unhesitatingly used for dyeing the heavier kinds of woollen goods. 2. The shade shows a slight change, which is not perceptible enough however, to prevent the dyestuff from being used for heavy goods; the change can easily be taken into account in dyeing to pattern. 3. The colour changes perceptibly. As a rule, the dyestufi" is no longer suitable for piece goods which are to be subjected to scouring with soda after dyeing, but may be used for lighter slubbing, or yarn dyed worsted materials, which are treated with soap or Fuller's Farth in order to remove the size. 4. The colour shows a considerable change; the dyestuiV can only be used for light worsted goods, after making a special test. .'). The colour is completely stripped; the dyestuff is unsuitable for all dyed goods which are to be subjected to a treatment with soap or soda, either for the purpose of cleansing, or removing the size. b) bleeding upon white. 1. No bleeding into white is noticeable; the dyestuft" is suitable for the production of me- langes, even of the heaviest kind. 2. A slight bleeding into white takes place. The dyestuft" may be used unhesitatingly for light shades; it may also be employed in melanges and one-coloured buckskins, provided the scouring is carried out with caution, and especially if the goods are well rinsed afterwards. Explanation of the fastness numbers. 3. The colour bleeds into white perceptibly, but is generally still suitable for single coloured goods; it can be used for buckskins and melanges only in light shades. 4. The colour bleeds considerably into accompanying white, and is only to be used in light shades for goods which are scoured carefully with Fuller's Earth. ;■). The colour bleeds heavily into white; the dyestuft' is altogether unsuitable for goods which have to be scoured, or from which the size has to be removed after dyeino'. Fastness to Milling. The ideas about fastness to milling fluctuate between wide limits, according to indivi- dual conception, the actual milling process employed, and the quality of the goods, so that it is difficult to reproduce, by trials on a small scale, results which correspond in every respect to practical experiences and opinions. Nevertheless, we have endeavoured to employ methods for testing the fastness to milling, which will, as nearly as possible, be found sufficient for all practical requirements, With that object in view, we subjected the dyed goods (on to which were sewn white wool and cotton threads) in the first place to a neutral milling with soap (50 o. soap per litre), and in the second place, to millmg in a strongly alkaline soap so- lution (50 g. soap and 50 g. calc. soda per litre). Both tests were carried out by putting the dyed material for 12 hours into the warm solutions at 86—104" F. To these tests we have added several others, appertaining to the fastness to soda, and the loss of shade when im- mersing the dyed material in water; and finally we have taken into consideration the results obtained in practice. Here, also, the change of shade, as well as bleeding into wliite was accounted for, and our figures therefore denote: a) change of shade. 1. The shade does not change when subjected to the strongest milling operation 2. The shade withstands the ordinary milling usual for buckskins, without changing 3. The shade shows no perceptible change when milled in neutral soap, which process is generally resorted to in the manufacture of flannels. 4. The shade withstands milling in cold water and with Fuller's Earth, without per- ceptible change. 5. The shade does not stand milling, b) b 1 e e d i n g 1 n t o w h i t e. 1. The strongest cloth milling causes no bleeding into white. 2. No bleeding into white takes place in normal buckskin milling. 3. No bleeding into white takes place in normal soap milling, or in washing light materials. i. When milled with cold water, the colours do not bleed into white. 5. The colours bleed into white when subjected to very slight milling with water or earth. Fastness to alkalies. In order to judge the fastness of colours to street dust and dirt, two tests were made, one with soda, the other with quicklime, both of which are more severe, but also more reliable than a treatment with ammonia. Many dyestuffs, which, in practice, are not fast to street dirt, when dipped into, or spotted with atnmonia, show at first a change, but they soon recover on exposure to air, and are, therefore, apt to be judged too favourably. For Tabular Sur\tv «! llic Wool Dvcsluff>. that reason we preferred to carry out our tests with soda and quicklime, which are more severe, and of more lasting effect. On the other hand, however, we must point out that by resorting to this severer test, many dyestufts, though placed in an inferior category, may still be found sufficiently fast in practice. This is especially the case when, as we have mentioned under lastness to light, colours are skilfully utilized ; e. g. a dyestuff which is liable to turn red, is combined with another one which turns green on treatment with alkali. In this manner the dyer is often enabled to produce fairly fast combination colours with dye- stuffs which, individually, are not fast to alkalies. The fastness to alkalies, and especially to soda, is, after all, nearly always a test of the fastness to perspiration of wool dyestuffs, since the effect of perspiration, contrary to that upon cotton, shows itself as an alkaline reaction in wool goods. Thus for example, goods dyed with Indigo Carmine, which is extremely stable to acids, are discoloured by perspiration in the same manner as by alkalies. This fact is all the more striking, insomuch as normal per- spiration has an acid reaction; it may, perhaps, be explained in the following manner: Perspi- ration consists chiefly of water, and of fatty acid and other inorganic salts; the former de- compose and split up into fatty acid and alkali, wiiereupon the freed alkalies, as the stronger bases, combine with the colour acids, which are relatively stronger than the fatty acids, and thus produce a change of shade; whereas the wool — the weaker base — combines with the weaker fattj' acids, in so far as these are not eliminated already bj' decomposition or volatilization. The soda test was effected by dipping the dyed goods into a soda solution of 16" Tw., squeezing, and allowing them to dry without being rinsed; the figures denote: 1. No change of shade takes place. 2. The shade shows only a slightly perceptible change, or loss of depth. 3. The change or loss of depth is more pronounced, but does not amount to one colour of the spectrum. 4. A considerable change of shade, or loss of depth takes place. 5. The shade is almost completely or entirely destroyed. The test with quicklime is carried out by spotting the dyed goods with newly slaked lime paste, and allowing it to dry in the open air, on the material. Then the dry lime is brushed off, and the change judged in the following manner: 1. No change of shade takes place. 2. The shade shows a slight change. 3. A marked weakening of the depth of colour, or a distinct change of shade is noticeable. 4. The shade shows a considerable loss of depth or a considerable change. •5. The colour is completely stripped. Colours which in both tests are denoted with 1, can be employed without hesitation for such goods as, e. g. carriage cloths, military and otlicr cloths for uniforms required to be extremely fast to street dirt, stains etc. Dyestuffs marked •>, are very fast to alkalies and perspiration, and can be employed where a satisfactory fastness to alkali is essential, e. g. for men's suitings, better classes of ladies' cloths and hat bodies. The dyestuffs under 3, include sufficiently fast acid colours for ordinary classes of ladies' dress goods; they will stand without change the ammonia test, which is mostly con- sidered sufficient for these goods. Dyestuffs classed under 4, can still be used for cheaper classes of ladies' dress goods, ats etc., as their change in most cases corresponds with that brought about by am- monia; they can mostly be pronounced sufficiently fast to alkalies for practical purposes. The dyestuffs designated with the figure 6, are insufficiently fast to alkalies. No de- mands as to fastness to alkalies or perspiration can be made upon them; even ammonia changes their shades permanently. Wool Colour Tables. Tabular Survey of the Dycstuffs used in Wool Dyeing. Name and Shade Method of Dyeing ChlnoUne Yellow O Application Naphthol Yellow S Flavazine 3 GL pat. Flavazlne L With 10°/o Glauber's salt and 4' It sulphuric acid at the iKiil. With 10°/o Glauber's salt anil 4 "/o sulphuric acid in a boilin" balh. With 20 "/o Glauber's salt and 4°/o sulphuric acid in a boiling bath. A pure greenish yellow level-dyeing dyesluff; used alone or in combination with Patent Blue, Xaphtalene Grwn for bright yellow to green shades (Billiard greensl. With Fast Acid Eosine or fast Acid Phloxinc used for cream and salmon shades fast to stoving: also for ladies' dress g 1 ^2-3 1 2 12-1 1 1 i 1 3 4 4 ; 2-3 3 4—3 2 3 3-2 ■2 1-2 : 3 1-2 2 1-2 1-2 1 i 1-2 4 4-3 4—3 1 3-4 2—3 : 4-5 2 2 1-2 3 1-2 2-3 1 1-2 1 1 1-2 4 4-3 4 ; 3—4 2-3 : 4-5 1-2 ; 2-3 1 2 1 2-3 1 1—2 1 1 3 4 4 : 2-3 3-2 ; 4 1-2 \ 3 1 2 2—3 1-2 2 1 1-2 1 1 2 3-2 1—2 2-1 1-2 1-2 1-2 ; 1 16 Tabular Survey of the DyestufFs used in Wool Dyeing. Name and Shade Method of Dyeing Application Dianll Pure Yellow HS Wilh 10— 20''/o Glauber's salt and 5 °/o acetate of ammonia; tlic jjoods are entered at 100— 120° K, the bath iben heated slowly to the boil, and kept boiling for '/j hour. Kor dark shades the bath is exhausted with 2 — 4% acetic acid. Dianil Yellow :!G pat. With 10— 20°/o Glauber's salt and S'/o acetate of ammonia or 3 "/o acetic acid ; the goods arc entered at a moderate tenipcrattire, the bath heated to the boil, and kept boiling for 1 hour, whilst adding 2 — •5''/(i acetic acid or 1 — 2% sulphuric acid. On account . Acid Colours. C Affinity for o c ^ o o O M Fastness to Stoving O in ^ s> fi .s 1^ Fastness to Soda Fastness to Milling Fastness to Alkalies Cotton Silk 13 in k- change Blceil- inf Change lileed- Change Bleed- ing Soda Quick lime 5 5 \ 3 3 4 3 2-3 2-3 1 2 2-3 2 2-1 1-2 1--2 1-3 4 5 : 3 2-3 4 2 1-2 1 1 2-3 3-2 2 2-3 12 2 1-2 2 1 5 5 : 3 3 2 1-2 3 2 1 2-3 3-2 2 2 1-2 1-2 1-2 2 4-5 1 6 ; 4 3-2 1 1 1 1 1 2-3 2-3 1-2 2-1 2 2-1 1-2 1 4-5 5 4 8 1 1-2 1 1 1 2-3 2-3 1-2 2—1 - 2-1 1 1 5 4-5 \ 3 3 2-3 1 1-2 1 1 3-2 3 1-2 2-3 - 2 1 1-2 i 5 3—4 2-3 3 1-2 2-1 1 1 2-3 3 2-3 3 2 2-3 2-3 2-3 :3le Tabulated Survey of the DyestufFs used in Wool Dyeing. Name and Shade Method of Dyeing Application Fast Yellow S 0.S •/. With 10 "/o f'llauber's salt and 4°/o sul])huric acid. Cheap Ifvcl-dyeingycllow, used in combinations with other colours on ladies' dress goods, and for embroidery and knitting yams. Fast Yellow O Azo Yellow cone. Chrysoine G At the boil with lO'/o Glauber's salt and 4% sul- phuric acid. Cheap soluble yellow, used in combinations with other colours for brown and fancy shades on piece goods and yarns. Readily dischargeable with Hydrosulphite. In an acid bath at the boil with 10 "/o Glauber's salt and 4*'/o sulphuric acid. Level-dyeing colour, fast to alkalies and acid; suitable for shading mixed and fancy shades on slubbing and piece goods, and for shading heavy suitings: suitable also for mixed wool and silk material. Azo Yellow O and the more soluble Aso Ftavine O anit J/ possess the same properties. With 10 "/o Glauber's salt and 4''/o sulphuric acid at the boil. Level-dyeing yellow dytstuff very fast to washing; used for self shades and in com- bination with other acid colours on slubbing, yarn, and ])iecc goods where fastness to washing is re<|uircd. Chrysoine R i:oisesses the s.ime properties. Victoria Yellow cone Dianil Orange N 0.5*/, With W/o Glauber's salt and 4''/o sulphuric .icid at the boil. With 10-20''/o Glauber's salt and 5"/o acetate of ammonia; the goods are entered at 120° F., heated to the boil and boiled for 1 — 1 '/t hours; for dark shades 2 — 4 "/o acetic acid are added. Cheap level-dyeing dyestuff; extensively used for the i)roduction of fancy shades, for darkening navy blues on ])iece goods, and yarns dyed with acid cf)lours. The brands ('. double, and cone. D ])osscss the saniu |)roperties. On account of its fitstness to water and washing used on slubbing and on knitting yarns; also in the manufacture of flannels and blankets. Orange Nr, 4 With 10 "/o Glauber's salt and 4°/o sulphuric .icid at the boil. Chea]) yellow dyestuff for shading dark sh.ides, such ,is brown, olive, bronze etc.; also on yarn, felt hals, and piece goods; fast to alkali and to light. Acid Colours. 19 be c is g- W Affinity for o tn C o 2u> O 60 V g a as Fastness to j Stoving o 2^^ in C £ n Fastness to Soda Fastness to Milling Fastness to j Alkalies Cotton; Silk Change : Bleed- ing Change i Bleed- 1 ing 1 Change : Bleed- ing Soda ; Quick lime 2 2—3 : 3 1-2 3. 2-3 2-3 2 j 2 4 4 4 1 4 3-4 \ 4 2-1 : 2-3 2 3 ; 3 2 3 2-3 2-3 2 1 2-3 4 4 4 ; 4 3-4 1 4 2-1 i 2-3 2 4 4 3 3-4 2 1—2 1-2 ; 3 4-5 3-4 3-2 i 4 3 ; 4 2-1 ; 2 2 3-4 3-2 2 3 3 2-3 2 1-2 3-4 3 3-4 ; 4-3 2-3 4 2 ; 2-3 2 4-3 4 2 3 2-1 2 2 2 4 4 3 4—5 3—2 4 1 1-2 5 5 : ''^-'^ 3 3—4 1—2 3-4 2 1 1 3-2 3 2 ; 2 2 I 2 1-2 1-2 i 2 3-4 \ 4-3 2 3 1—2 2 2 1 2 4 4 3 : 5 3 : 4 1 ; 1-2 Tabulated Survey of the DyestufFs used in Wool Dyeing. Method of Dyeing With IC/o niaulH-r's sail and 4"/o sulphuric acid. Wilh 10"/,. GlaulHT-s salt ami 4 °/o sul|ihuiic aciil in a biiilinj; lialli. Wilh 10" rilaubpi's salt antl 4 " .. siilpluiric acid. Application I>^vcl-dycing colour ver)- fast to li(;lit ami to nikniies, I'scd on weaving, knitting, caqjct, and fancy yams, on piece goods for fancy shades and for shading chrome developing a>lours. On account of its equalizing properly and its general fastness used for all kinds of combination shades on piece goods, carjiet, embroider)', and fancy yams. For self shades on wtKil and silk goods. Orani^f HL and Orange No. i are used for the same ]>urpc)ses. Dischai^cable with Hydrosulphito. I.evel-dycing colour f.asl to alkalies and acid; used for the production of dark combination shades on ladies' dress goods and on carpet and knitting yams. With 10";,, ("dauber's s.->U and 4"/o sulphuric acid at the boil. Willi 10"/o Olaulipt's s.ilt iiml 4°'o sulphuric acid at the boil. Of the same properties as Brilliant (Grange G ; especially suitible for dark combination shades, such as brown, bronze, olive on piece goods, embroidery, knitting, and fancy yams. Readily dischargeable wilh Ilydrosulphite. On account of its tinctorial strength and general fastness properties, as a cheap foun- dation for combination and fancy shades in wool dyeing; used lai'gely on yarn, piece goods, and felt hats. Acid Colours. c Affinity for o cn-S o o ■" be O bD Fastness to Stoving o is 2 m in '^ Fastness to Soda Fastness to Fastness to Milling Alkalies a W Cotton Silk c3 Oi ra i CO [/5 ; 13 ra Change Bleed- ing P C S Change Bleed- ing Change Bleed- ing „ , i Quick Soda : Wmo I 2 3 3 1 2-3 1-2 1 2-1 2 4 4 4 5 3-4 6 1-2 : 2 2 3 4 2—1 3-2 1 1 1-2 2 4 4 3 5 3 4 2-1 2 2-3 3 4 2-1 3—2 1 1 1-2 2 4 4 4 5 3-4 4 -5 2 2-3 i 2-3 3—4 4 2-1 3-2 1-2 1 1-2 2 4 4 4-3 5 3-4 4 2 2 2 3— i 3-4 1-2 2-3 1 1-2 1-2 2—3 4 4-3 3-4 5 3 4-5 1-2 2 2 3-4 3—4 1-2 2-3 1 1-2 1—2 2—3 4 4-3 3 ^ 3 4-5 2—1 2 j 2-3 3—4 4-3 2 3-2 1-2 1 1-2 2 4 4-3 3-2 5 3 4-5 1-2 2 22 Tabulated Survey of the Dyestufts used in Wol Dyeing. Name and Shade Method of Dyeing Application Brilliant Crocelne R Willi 10 "/o Glauber's salt and 3 "It sulphuric acid ; the goods are entered at 120—140° I"., the bath 'heated slowly to the boil, kept boiling for '/j- 1 hour. Formic acid can be iiscd in place of sulphuric acid. With lO'/o filauber's salt .and -^"lo sulphuric acid; the gotKis are entered at 120—140" I'"., the bath is healed slowly to the boil, and kept boiling for '/« — 1 hour. With 20»/o Glauber's salt and 4"/u sulphuric acid; the goods arc entered at a mo- derate tempcniture, the hath is then healed slowly lo the Imil, and kept boiling for ',4 — 1 hour. With 10";,, Glauber's salt and 2— 5 ",o .'icetic acid, or ' 10",i .ncelate of ammonia : I the liath is healed slowly to the boil, kept Ixiiling for 1 hour; if necessarj', some [ acetic or sulphuric acid is I added to exhaust the bath. I On account of their fastness to light ilie Brilliant Croceines are extensively used !• t the priKhiclion of scarlet shades on yarn .mil ])iecc goods, where fastness to acid aiul sloving is not retpiired, as c. g. for dccor.i- tivc materials, bunting, upholstery goods etc. In addition to the specified brands. Brilliant Croceine B, BB, sB and SB are also lai^ely used. Very fast to light; largely used in place of the more fugitive scarlets on yarn and piece goods, where fastness to sloving is not required. A blueish red cochineal shade very fast to light, fast lo stoving, and moderately f.ist lo water, l.'sed in combination with cochineal or topped with Rosazeine, in place of Cochineal Scarlets on i>iece goods espmium fluoride. Used on lof.se wool and shibbing for bright sludes f.-isl lo milling; on yarn and piece goods, if not too great a demand is m.ide as to fastness to light, for bright reds fast to water, washing and milling. Altlltng Scarlet 4RO possesses the same properties. Acid Colours. 60 C 1 a* W Affinity for o ■" bO m C S -3 o o ■" 60 o bo II CO ca bU Fastness to Stoving o rn ^ en l^uric :icid ; ihc (;i)ods ail! cnteieil at 120-140" K., the bath 111 slowly to the boil, and kept boiliny for "/j — 1 hour. Instead of sidphiiiic acid fomiic aiid may be used. Excel in tinctorial strcnj;tli and fastness to Mght and lubbinj;. Used on shibbing, yarn, and jiiece goods a.s a foundation for scarlet, red and claret shades where fastness to light is essential. Not suitable for goods whicli are to be stoved after dyeing. Largely used on carpet, knitting, and fancy yarns, ladies' dress goods, upholstery and ta|)islr)' materials, ladies' and children's hats. Victoria Scnrlft 2G and 5/^ are two further brands of the .same class. Acid Colours. bo E 3 cr w Affinity for o " bo o .J c2 2 b/, u E c n 1'^ O bi) Fastness to Sieving o t2 2^ B « Fastness to Soda Fastness to Milling Fastness to Alkalies Cotton! Sillc Change : Bleeding Change | Bleeding Change Bleeding c , ; Quick Soda : Lime 3-4 2-3 3 -2 1-2 2—3 1-2 1-2 2 - 3 : 3 4 4 4 \ 4—5 3-4 4 2 : 3 ■6-i 2 2-3 1-2 2—3 1—2 1—2 3 i 3 4 4 4 ; 4 3—4 4—5 2 \ 3 4-3 2 3-2 1 2-3 1-2 1—2 3-4 ; 3 4-3 4 4 ; 4 3—4 4-5 2 1 3 4 2 : 2—3 1 2—3 1—2 1-2 4 : 3 3-4 4—3 ■4 ': 4 3-4 4 2 i 3—4 4 1—2 : 2 1 2—3 1-2 1—2 5 ; 3 3 4-3 4—5 i 4—3 3—4 4 2 : 3-4 4 I i 2 1 2-3 1—2 1-2 5 1 3 3 4—3 4-5 ; 4—3 3—4 4 2 : 3-4 4 1 2-1 1 2-3 1-2 1—2 5 3 3 4—3 4-5 4-3 3—4 4 2_3 ■ 3-4 2ale 26 Tabulated Survey o\ the DyestufFs used in Wool Dyeing. Name and Shade Method of Dyeing Application Scarlet G Scarlet R Scarlet RR Scarlet 3R Scarlet 4R 2.5% Scarlet 5R Scarlet 6R Wilh 10*0 ("ilaulier> s;ill and 4 " o sulphuric acid : the |;ds arc entered al 100-120° K., the Kith heated troperties. Dischargeable with hydrosulphite. E.ast to liglit and .ilkalies. Used as foundation for claret red, red, and redbrown, alone or in combination with other acid colours on all kinds of yarns and piece goods, on cheap suitings also as red ingredient for browns and navy blues. Brillianl Criimon li is rather more bluish. Dischai'geable with hydnisulphite. Victoria Rubine O With 10—20 ";„ Glauber's s.ilt and 3"'/o sulphuric acid; the goods are entered at 1'20— 140° I-"., the balh healed to the boil, and kipi boiling f.M- I h.Mii, Bluer in shade, otherwise equal to Brilliant Crimson O, and used in the same manner. To this class of colours may be added I'iclorin Rubine G and the brands .l/mi- iiinth O, f: and Brilliant Rubine O which are slightly faster to stoving. Dischargeable with hydrosnlpliile. Acid Colours. 29 00 c ■« 3 cr Affinity for o tn c "IS o Si c « si Fastness to Stoving o is c2 o ■" UJ in c Fastness to Soda Fastness to Fastness to Milling Alkalies Cotton Silk Change Bleeding Change Bleeding Change Bleeding Soda QV|;^ 4-3 1-2 3 1 3 1 1-2 2 2 3 4 3-4 5 3 4 2 ; 3 4 3-4 4 2 2-3 2 1 2 2 3 3 2-3 4 2-3 3-4 2-3 \ 2 4 4-3 4 2 4—3 1 1-2 2-3 2 3-4 3-4 3 4 3 3-4 2 ; 2-3 4 - 2-3 3 1-2 4-3 1 1-2 3-2 2 3 4 4 4 3 4-3 2-3 i 3 4-3 2 3 1 2—3 1-2 1-2 2 ' 2 3 4 4 4 3-4 4 3 1 2 i 4 1 2 1 3-2 2 2 2 1-2 3 4-3 3—4 4 3-4 4 3 2-3 4 1 2 1 3-2 2 2 2 2 3 4-3 3-4 4 3—4 4 3 : 2-3 Tabulated Survey of the Dyestufts used in VI'ool Dyeing. Name and Shade Method of Dyeing Application Dianil Red K Delta Purpurine 5B q Brilliant Dianil Red R Willi 10-20% Glauber's -all aiul ri"o acetalc of .iriimonia; llic gixids are enlerea at 100—120° F., the l>atli healed to the boil, and kept lioiling for 1 — 1 '/j hours. For dark shade the balli is exhausted by an addition of 1— 2"ii aeetic acid. With 10— 20% Glauber's salt and 5% acetate of am- monia or 3"o acetic acid; the j;(x>ds are entered at 120" F., the bath is heated 111 the boil, .ind kept boiling whilst 2 — 5 % acetic acid are added. With 10—20% Gl.iuber's salt and 5 °'o acetate of am- monia, the goods arc entered at 120" F. and boiled for 1 — 1'/» hours; if required, 2 — 4 " o acetic acid .are added. Largely used for chcip knitting yarns i and hosiery goods, on .account of their linctorial strength and their fastness to washing and to water. Fast to water, washing and milling, and especially to light; lai^ely used, as fast red, in f.ist wool dyeing on loose wool, slubbing and yarn. Aflertreatment with chrome enhances its f.astness. Compare page 82. On account of their good fastness to waui and milling used in the same manner .as Di.anil Red 4B, R, Delta Purpurine .5B (see above), and also for shading these colours. Acid Colours. Affinity for o in C C J2 o ID bD o , ■w bO 1"^ o be •" c S '5 Si Ic3 Fastness to Stoving o o ■" bX) Fastness to Soda ■ Fastness to Milling Fastnees to Alkalies "m 1 3 ( cr W Cotton; Silk Change Bleeding Change | Bleeding Change : Bleeding Soda ■■ Quick 5 5 3-4 2-3 3 1 4 4 1-2 3 3-2 2 2 2 2—1 1 1-2 5 5 3—4 2 3 1 4 3 1 3 3 2 2-1 2 2-1 1 1-2 5 5 3—4 2 3 1 4 3 1 3 3 2 1-2 2 2-1 1 1-2 5 5 3 2 3 1 4 2-3 1-2 3 3 2, 2 2 2 1 1-2 5 5 4-3 3 2-3 1 3 2 1—2 3 3 2 2-3 2 2 1 1-2 5 5 : 3-4 2 4 1-2 2-3 4-5 i 1 3 3 2 i 2-3 2 1 2-1 1 1-2 5 5 \ 2 1—2 2 1 3 2 ! 1 3 3 2 : 2-3 2 ; 2-3 1 : 1-2 32 Tabulated Survey of the DyestufFs used in W ool Dyeing. Name and Shade Method of Dyeing Application Claret Red G Claret Red B Claret Red R extra Cloth Red O Dianil Claret Red G Willi 2U",g Gl;iiil>cr's salt and 2 — 3 "jo sulpluiric acid; ihc K"'"*!* "'■'' I'mcred 3' 120° I-'., tlie iMth heated to the iMiil and kept boiling for 1 hour. When dyeinj; hihhIs which do not etjiudizc easily llic sulphuric acid is replaced liy formic acid, acetic acid, or acetate of annnonia and some sulphuric acid is finally added. With 2'l"/„ Glauber's salt and 2 — 8",ii sulphuric acid; the goods are entered at HO" I-"., the bath heated slowly and boiled for 1 hour; or first boileil with Glauber's salt, acetate of ammonia or acetic acid, and 2% sidphuric acid added. Used frequently on yarn, pieces, and on slubbing for full red and blucish red sLipIc colours. Besides these there are on the market: Claret Red Ry 3K, O extra, B extra and O, also Fast Claret Red O, and Naphthol Riibine O. Dianil Claret Red B Dianil Violet H Dyed with 10— 20''/„ Glau- ber's salt and .S"/„ acitate of annnonia at 100 - 120" I-'.; the bath is heated slowly to the boil, kept boiling for 1- — !'/» houre; and if neces- sary, exhausted by adding 2 — 4% acetic ;icid. Fast to light; an aftertreatment with fluoride j of chrome or bichrome turns the shade bluer and enhances the fastness to milling. Used on loose wool, slubbing, yarn and heavy piece goods either as an acid dyestuff, or aflertreated ; also in combination with extnicls and wood colours for goods which have to stand nulling. Dn account of their fastness to water and washing, ciiiploye 3 3 2-3 1 3 3 1—2 3 3 2 \ 2—3 2 i 2 1-2 ; 1-2 31e Tabulated Survey of the DyestufFs used in Wool Dyeing. Name and Shade Method of Dyeing Application Fast Brown O Fast Brown L Commenced with 10— 20'';o Glaiihcr's s.ill and h "„ acetate of ammonia, at 120- 140° K.; the bath is heated slowly to the boil, kept boilmj; for 1 '/, hours ; for dark shades 2 — 4% acetic acid are finally added. Dianil Brown G With 10—20% (dauber's salt and 3% sulphuric acid; the goods are entered at 120—140° !•'., and the bath heated slowly to the boil. With 10— 20°;„ Glauber's salt and 5°/ii acetate of am- monia; the gooils are entered at 120—140° v.: the bath heated slowly to the boil, and kept boiling for 1 — I'/j hours; for dark coloiu-s the bath is exhausted with 2 — 4°/o acetic acid. (In account of its fastness to washing chiefly used in dyeing slubbing and yam for hositiy goods. Used on weaving and knitting yams and piece goods made from carded yarns, as a cheap brown and in combination with other acid dycstuffs. With 10 ",u (-ilaiil'cr's salt .ind 4 "jo sulphuric acid at the boil for 1 hour. Fast to washing, therefore largely used on slubbing and yarns for knitted goods and other articles which demand f;istness to washing. Dianil Brown 2G, R, j/f, B, D, and Dianil Fast Brown R ser\e the same puiposcs. Level dyeing colour used on zephyr- and fancy yarns for light piece goods (Brad- ford) alone or in combination with other level dyeing acid dyestuffs. The weaker brand Azo Acid Brown RO possesses llie same properdcs. Acid Colours. •H 3 w Affinity for o ■" ho in C o a 2m ■5! "^ O W) ^6 Fastness to Stoving o II o tn.C Fastness to Soda Fastness to Milling Fastness to Alkalies Cotton Silk Change Bleeding Change Bleeding Change Bleeding SoO. S ', 5 5 3 3 4-3 2-3 3-4 2-3 2 3-4 3-4 2 4 2 3-4 2 '■■ 2 4 3 3 2 3-4 1-2 1-2 2 2 4 4-3 3 5 3 4 1 -2 ; 2 : 4 3- 4 3—4 2 3-4 2 2 2-3 2 4 4-3 3 •^ 3 4 1-2 1 2 5 5 3 3 4-3 2-3 2-3 2 2 3 3 2 3 2 2-3 2 i 1-2 • 5 5 3 3 4-3 1-2 3 2-3 2-3 3 3 2 4 2 3 2 ; 1-2 5 5 3 3 3-4 1 2 1-2 : 2 3 3 2 : 3 2 2—3 1-2 : 1-2 1-2 1 ; ^ 2 3-4 2 2-1 2 ; 1-2 4-3 4 5 4 3-4 ! 4 2 4 ■3r, Tabulated Survey of the Dyestuffs used in Wool Dyeing. Method of Dyeing Application Willi 10 ",u Glauber's sail aiul 4'',u sulphuric acid al Ihc boil. With 10 ",o Glauber's salt and 4" II sulphuric acid at ihe boil. Cheapest level dyeing red dyestuff, though not as pure in shade as Amidonaphtliol Ked and Chromotrope. Especially used on all- wool dress goods, as equalising red foi all kinds of conibinalion shades. Also in self shades on yarn; suitable for sh.nding in a chrome balh. Dischargeable with hydro- sulphite. The bluer brand Azo Acid Rfd $Ii possesses tlie same properties. Veiy level dyeing colours distinguished for purity of shade and fastness to light, alkalies, steaming and ironing; extensively used for piece goods, ladies' hats, yarns, braids etc. for all kinds of mixed and fancy shades ; also used for shading chrome developing colours. With 10"/,, Glauber's salt and 4"ii sulphuric acid at the boil. On account of its fastness to water, washing and light used for red and combination shades on knitting yarns, and yarns which have to stand milling in cold water. Suitable for dyeing pieces with silk effects; in this case it is advisable to use acetic acid. With 10"/o Glauber's s.alt and 4"/,, sulphuric acid at the boil. As a level dyeing red acid dyestuff fast to lij^lit, and suitable for all kiiids of mixed and light fancy shades on yarns and piece goods; also as red ingredient for fast na,ip blues, in combination with I'alcnt Hliie V, I., LE etc. Acid Colours. 37 C 3 cr W Afifinity for o ■" be in-S o a fa o ■" bO m C C M c2^ O M S '3 SS in i^ a a Fastness to Stoving o P fa 2w in c s « fa Fastness to Soda Fastness to Milling Fastness lo Alkalies Cotton Silk Change Bleedings Change Bleeding Change Bleeding Soda Quii:k Lime 2 2 2 1-2 2-3 2 2-3 1-2 1-2 3-4 4 4-5 4 4-3 4 2 3-4 2 1 2-3 1 2 1-2 2-3 2-1 1-2 4-3 4-3 4-5 4 3-4 4 2 3 2 1 2-3 1 2-3 1—2 2 1—2 1—2 4-3 4-3 4 4 3-4 4 2 3 2 1 2-3 1 3-2 1—2 2-1 1-2 1—2 3-4 4-3 4 4 3—4 4 2 3-4 :', 1 1-2 1 2 2-3 2—1 1—2 1 3-2 3 3 4-3 3-2 3 1-2 2 2 2 8 2 2-3 2 1—2 1-2 2 3-4 4—3 4 4 8—4 3-4 2-3 3 2 2 3 2 2-3 2 1-2 1-2 2—1 3-4 4—3 4 4 3-4 3-4 2-3 3 38 Tabulated Survey of the Dyestufts used in Wool Dyeing. Name and Shade Method of Dyeing Archil Substitute G Application „•■ . ■«.. ,-■ 1 . 1 Level dyeing colour, fast to light. Used on ■ '..°",u *""*-, ' y-Tn and piece goods for the production ""' * '" 1"''*"'?'' ■■" : "f nil kinds of brown and fancy shades in combination with otlier eijualising dyi-sluffs. With 10°/o Glauber's salt and 4°/u sulphuric acid at the boil. With 10% Glauber's salt and 4''ii sulphuric acid; the goods are entered at 140" !•".. the bath heated to the boil and kept boiling for 1 liour. Level dyeing dyestuffs of great fastness to light. Suitable for mixed and fancy shades of all kinds on yarn and piece goods wheie fastness to light is requireJi. Between these two brands ranges Chromotropc liB. Chromo- trope 6B is especially used in combination with Patent Blue V, Fast Acid Green Bli etc., for fast navy blues. On account of their fastness to light used on yarn and piece goods for Tast dark red and combination shades. More frehlhalinc Blue brands see the following jiagc. Acid Colours. c [m "a 3 a* W Affinity for o m c o V so 2m cn.S c 5 Fastness to Stoving o m ^ c2 o m S V S 1^ Fastness to Soda Fastness to Milling Fastness to Allialies Cotton ; Silk Change iBleeding Change ! Bleeding Change I Bleeding Soda : Quick ; Lime 3-2 2 2-3 1 4 2 1—2 1-2 1 3-2 3-2 2-3 3—2 3 3 3 : 2-3 2-3 2- 2 1 4 z 1-2 1-2 1 3 3-2 3 3 3 3 3 2-3 4 3 3 2 3—4 1-2 1-2 1—2 1 3-2 2-3 2—3 3 3-2 3 3 2-3 3 2 3 1-2 3-4 2-3 2 2 1—2 3—4 3 3 3 3 ; 2-3 3 2—3 3 1-2 3-2 1—2 3—4 S-2 2 2—3 1-2 3 3 3 2-3 3 2-3 3 2-3 3 2 3 1—2 3—4 3-2 2 3-2 2-1 3 3 3 2-3 3 2—3 3 2-3 3 2 ; 3 2-1 3— t 8-2 2 2—3 2—1 3—4 3 3 2-3 3 2—3 3 3-2 Tabulated Survey of the Dyestuffs used in Wool Dyeing. Name and Shade Method of Dyeing Application Naplitaline Blue ON extra pat. Naphtaline Blue I, R pit. Naphtaline Blue B extra pat. Naphtaline Blue R pat. Naphtaline Blue J pat With 10",, ril.-Hilier's s.ilt and 4"o siilphiiric acid M llie Ixiil. With 10 »„ rd.nil.cr"s s.ili .nnd 4"(( sulplniric aciiX at the lH.il. Possessing the same properties, and iist-d for the same inirj)Oses as the brands specified on the previous p-ige. DN extra is brighter than B and also somewhat f.islcr to steaming; LR is brighter, redder and faster to steaming than DX extra: in combination with Patent Blue \' it yields especially cheap navy blues fast to steaming. Naphthaline Blue R is especially suitable for bright reddish shades in combination with Acid \'iolet etc , whereas the J brand is employed for darker, covered navy shades. Largely used are further : Naphtaline liluf D and />' extra, which can be classed with the brand B, also DX which closely apprtxichcs DK extra in its properties, and Naphtaline nine DI. which, besides being cheap, excels in f.istness to steaming and to light. Not tpiitc as f.ist to washing, but faster to light than the Naphtaline Blues. Vsed on yarn and piece goods, where f-istness to light is essential, csl to nibbing anil tc. liylit. Used for dark blackblues for ladies' dress giMHis and cheap suitings. Similar is the brand O eon,:, which is faster to water but docs not equalize well. Acid Colours. 43 cr Affinity for o In 3 o 2 m c n o so S'S Si Id Fastness to Stoving 2 o Fastness to Soda Fastness to Milling Fastness to Alkalies Cotton Silk Change Bleeding Change Bleeding Change Bleeding Soda Quick Lime 3-2 2 3-4 1-2 3-4 2 2 2 2-1 3-4 3-4 3-4 3 3 3 3-2 3-2 ! 3 1-2 3 1-2 4-3 2 2 2—3 2 3—4 3 3-2 3 3 3 3 2-3 3 1-2 3 1—2 4-3 2-3 2 2-3 1-2 3-4 3 3 3 2-3 2-3 3 2-3 3 2 3 1-2 3-4 2-3 2 2-3 1-2 3—4 3 3 3 3 2-3 3 2-3 1 3 2 3 1—2 4-3 2—3 2 3-2 2 3-4 3 3-2 3 2-3 2-3 3 2-3 2-3 1 3 1-2 3 2 1-2 2 2 4—3 4 4 3 3-4 3 3-2 3 2-3 1-2 8 1—2 3-2 2-3 2 2 2-3 3-4 4 3-4 4 3-4 4 3 2-3 1 Tabulated Survey of the DycstufFs used in Wool Dyeing. Method of Dyeing Application Wilh 10— 20"« (".laubcr's sail and 3 "o acetic acid; tlic HikkIs arc entered at 140° I'., the hath heated to the boil ; after '/t hr. Imilin^ 2- -3"o sulphuric acid are gradually added, and the liquid kept boilini; for another '/i hour. Fast to on light and wearing. Suitable for darkblues on cheap suitings, also on ma- terial with cotton effects; on slubbingand yarn where no |>articular fastness to milling is reiiuired. With 10»/„ Glauber's salt and 4% sulphuric acid, at the boil. Best equalising acid bUack similar in shade to logwood black. Used on zephyr- and fancy yarns, for ladies' light dress goods, where no great demands arc made as regards fastness to light. With 20-100",,, (ilauber's sail and 4"',> sulphuric .acid, al the boil; in old baths 10",, Glauber's salt :ind 4"o sulphuric acid, are sufficient. Range with the other Azo Acid Black 1, brands specified on the following page; they are as fast to light as these, but rather redder in shade. Acid Colours. 45 C 3 w Affinity for o m C o Si o In ^^ O bD s s si « a faU Fastness to Stoving o irt t- o *" bo m c £ S 1^ Fastness to Soda Fastness to Milling Fastness to Alkalies Cotton Silk S "9 1 J a fa Change i Bleeding Change Bleeding Change Bleeding Soda I Quick Lime 1 1-2 2 1-2 3-4 2 1 3 \ 1 2-3 3-4 3-2 1 3-4 1 3 2—3 2 I \ 2 2-3 2-3 3 1 4-5 1-2 2 2 I 2-3 4 4 4 4-5 3-4 4 3 3 i 2—3 2-8 : 3 1 4-5 1-2 2 2 2-3 4 4 4 \ 4-0 3—4 \ 4 3 j 3 1 2-3 2-3 i 3 1 4-5 2 2 2—3 2 4 4 4 \ 4—5 3-4 ; 4 3 ,, ' 3 2-3 \ 3 1 4-3 2 2 2 2 3 4 3-4 i 4 3-4 ; 4 2-3 2-3 i 3 2-3 i 3 1 4-3 2 2 2 1 1—2 3 4 3—4 ; 4 3-4 : 4 2-3 ; 2-3 i 2-3 3 2 j 3 1--2 4 2 2 2 : 1-2 4 4 4-3 1 4-5 3-4 1 4 3-2 Tabulated Survey of the DycstufFs used in ^"ool Dyeing. Name and Shade Method of Dyeing Application Azo Acid Black 3BLOO pat. Azo Acid Black SP.K extra pat. Azo Add Black TL extra pat. In a ntwbath wilh 20— 100" o GlaulxT's salt ami 4 " o sul- phuric acid at the Imil, for a standing hath 10"cr"s salt and 4°o sulphuric add, arc sufficient. Kur goods with cotton effects or cotton selvedges the acidity of the bath is slightly increased. Azo Acid Black K L extra pat. Azo Acid Black KRL extra pat. In a new bath with: .50 100°,o Glauber's salt and 4"„ sul- phuric acid, at the Ixiil ; in old baths witli: 10 "o Glauber's salt and 4"o sulphuric acid. Same .is Azo Acid Black 3BL extra (see above). Equalise vcrj' well in an .acid bath, and yield blucblack and jetblack shades which are in no way inferior in depth and bloom to those of logwood dyed in three baths, and are as fast to light as these. The brands most used are: 3BI, extra (blueblack) and TL extra (jetblack I cither alone or in combmalion with each other for the production of all current black shades. 3BLOO is rather bluer and fuller than 3BL extra; and faster to acid. On account of their good equalising ])ropertics and l>cauty of shade they are most extensively used, instead of logwiHKl black, for ladies' dress gotnls also for ladies' hats and for zephyr- and fancy yarns. Possess excellent equalising pro]>ertics; 'they give bright full black shades: they arc faster to water, alkalies and especLiUy to light than the brands named above, and are largely used in piece dyeing for full black shades f.Tsi to wearing on ladies' l>etter and heavier dress goods .-ind light suitings. Closely resemble .4zo AciJ Black 3BL extra or TL extra as regards properties and application. Acid Colours. 47 p a" Affinity for o c ^ o o in .5 O 60 Fastness to Stoving 2 o in C s s 1^ Fastness to Soda Fastness to Milling Fastness to Alkalies Cotton. Silk C « en *" l-e feu Change Bleeding Change : Mecding Change Bleeding Soda Quick Lime 3 2 i 3-2 1-2 4—3 2 2 2—1 1-2 3—4 4-3 3—4 ; 4 3-4 4 2—3 2-3 3 2 3 1—2 4-3 2-1 2 2—1 1-2 3-4 4-3 3-4 ; 4 3-4 4 2—:; 0-2 •'• 2 ! 3 1—2 4 2 2 2 1—2 4-3 4 3-4 4—5 3—4 4 3-2 3—2 ' :;-4 2-3 i 8 1—2 8-2 2 2-1 1-2 1-2 8 3—4 3-4 4-5 3-4 i 4-3 2-1 1-2 3-4 2-3 1 3 1—2 3-2 2 2-1 1-2 . 1-2 3 3-4 3-4 4-5 3-4 ; 4—3 2-1 1--2 3 2-3 3 1-2 4-3 2 2 2 ; 1—2 3 4 3-4 4 3-4 ; 4 2—3 ; 3-2 3 2 \ 3 1-2 4 2 2 2 ; 1-2 4 4 4-3 4—5 3-4 4 3-2 ■ ! i 3-2 i Tabulated Survey of the DyestufFs used in ^Xool Dyeing. Name and Shade Amido Black lOBO Method of Dyeing Application Ainido Black T Willi 20 "« Tilauber's sail and H " „ sulpluiric acid ; gds which di> not o<)iialise easily arc dyi'd with 3 °o acetic acid 1 — 2% sulphuric acid licing added after lioiling for 'It hour. Yield blacks of very satisfactory' fastness to light and wearing; shade and pri>|>erties range between Azo Acid Black anil Aniido- naphtol Black; they arc fast to rubbing and fairly fast to washing. Used for ladies' dress goods and men's suitings, es|Kcially on carded material cither alone or in combination with Azo Acid Black; also for better class goods on account of their, fastness to light. Suitable for /lal dyiing and vool yarn. Amido Black 10 B possesses the same properties. Amidonaphtol Black S Amidonaphtol Black RK With 10— 20"o Glauber's salt and 3 — 5% acetic acid: the goods areenteredat 120 — 140°1''., the bath heated to the boil ; after boiling for '/j hour 1 — 2"o sulphuric acid are addetl to exhaust the bath. Gods c<|ualisin(; easily the l)ath can be prc|)ared initially with 1 — 2 " M sulphuric acid instead of acetic acid. Carbon Black 3B Carbon Black B With 10";„ Glauber's salt and 1 ° o acetic acid ; the goods arc entered at a me- dium temperature, the bath is then heated to ihc boil and kept simmering for 1 hour. Carbon Black U I ) Carbon Black T With 20% GKiuber's salt and 2 — 3°/o sulphuric acid; the goods are entered at 140° V, the bath hratcd to the boil and kept boiling for 1 hour. Kor goods which dye tlirough with difficulty .ind for lighter shailes the bath is prepared with 20 "o Glauber's salt and .S — .')"„ acetic or formic acid , and after boiling for '/j hour 1 — 2% sulphuric .acid are added. Very fast to light and washing used on yain and stubbing for light milling, with soap and water; principally employed for light dress goods, especially fmbination w itli logwood for under-wefts and interior warps in single coloured goods which need nut possess any particular fastness. On knitting yams, also on carded and woi-stcd yams for light and mcdiuni milling. Much used on cheap suitings, alone or together with log- wood, for darkening chrome developing shades : on shoddy ])iece goods ; on -.cool and silk goods for self shades. In addition to the specified brands Fast Blue 3 R extra, D, G extra, 5 B, greenish, extra greenish, and Nigrosinc No. IV may be named. For greys which are fairly fast to light and washing, and verj- fast to milling: therefore used as foundation for fast combination and fancy shades, alone or together with faster acid dyt'Stuffs on loose wool, worsted and carded yarns and piece goods for carded and cheaper worsted materials. Compare also page 9iJ. Acid Colours. 53 C "a a W Affinity for o fa o fa 2m C rt O M ■" n S'c faU Fastness to Stoving o § fa o m C Fastness to Soda Fastness to Milling Fastness to Alkalies Cotton Silk Change Bleeding Change Bleeding Change iBleeding Soda Quick Lime 4 4 4 3-4 4 1-2 1 2 2 3 3 4-3 3 3 3 4 3-4 4 4 4 3-4 4 1-2 1 2 2-1 3 3 4 3 3 3 4 3-4 4 4 4 3-4 4 2-1 1 2 2-1 3 3 4 3 3 3 4 3-4 4 3-4 4 2-3 8-4 2-1 1 2-1 2-1 3 3-4 3 3 2-3 2-3 2-3 2-3 4 4 4 3-4 4-3 1—2 1 2 2—1 3-4 3-4 4 4-3 3 3 4 3-4 4 4 4-3 3-4 4—3 2-3 2 2 2—1 3—4 4 4 3 3 3 4 3-4 4 4 4-3 2—3 2—3 2 2 2 1 2-3 3 2 2 2 2 1-2 1 54 Tabulated Survey of the Dycstufts used in Wool Dyeing. Name and Shade Method of Dyeing Application Milling Blue 2R extra Fast Acid Blue R Alizarine Direct Blue B pat. Alizarine Direct Green G pat. With 10 "o Glauber's s.Mt and 4''o sulphuric acid, at the boil. With 10% filaiiber's salt and i^'o sulphuric acid, at the boil. With 10% Glauber's salt and 3% sulphuric .icid; I he goods arc entered al 120 — 140° K, the bath heated to the boil, kept boilinj; for 1 hour. For lighter shades and ujjon sensitive goods dyed in- itially with 3%.icctic .acid; sulphuric acid is added if necessary. With 10—20",, GLauber's salt and 2 — 4% acetic acid, the goods are entered at 120-140" !•', the bath hea- ted to the boil, and exhau- sted with acetic or sulphu- ric acid. When greater fast- ness to milling is required, the goods ' are aftertrcated with 1 — 2 '/»"ii bichtonie. Also suitable for dyeing on a chrome mordant with the addition of Acetic Acid. High cl.iss Acid dyesluffs of great fastness to light, alkalies and milling, and suable to chrome: Employed on /oose wool in light shades as an excellent equalising red and usi'd as auxiliary and shading-off dyestuffs in com- bination with mordant and developing dye- stuffs; .as fast tojiping or bottoming colours for indigo; for dyeing shoddy. On slubbing for shades f.ast to water and milling, alone or for shading-off mordant and developing colours ; for the same purposes also in yarn dyeing. In piece and hal dyeing .as fast, well equalising reds for all kinds of fancy shades and darli mixed shades in combination with acid, developing and mordant colours. Suitable for self shades on wool and silk materials. Fast .Lid I'io/et R L, RO and A 2 R O ser\e the same purposes. SuiUable for the production of bright blues fast to light, milling and alkalies on loose -i'oo/, shoddy, slubbing and yarn, for the manufacture of blankets and flannels ; on ladies' better class dress goods. Liirgely used also for shading-off mordant and developing colours on all kinds of materials ; for navy blue upon wool and silk goods. Very fast to light, alkalies and milling; on /oose 7cool for white, pearl and lighlblue shades fast to milling. On slubbing alone or in combination with other fast colour's for light shades which have to stand milling, water and liglit; for the same puiposes on woi-sted and carded yams. As auxiliary and sh.ading-off dyestuff in combination with mordant coloure. Rarely used for piece goods. I'';ist to alkalies, water .and milling, and es|iecially to light. On account of their high degree of fastness largely used in all branches of wool dyeing; suitable, for loose material, slubbing, yarn and piece goods in all cases where fastness to wearing and great fastness to light is essential. Used alone or in com- bination with acid, developing or mordant colours. Acid Colours. "a D W Affinity for o 1^ o IS in S o so ■" .s Fastness to Sieving o c2 o in c 1^ Fastness to Soda Fastness to Milling Fastness to Alkalies Cotton Silk tf) '-' Ic3 Change Bleeding Change Bleeding Change Bleeding Soda :'^ 2 3-4 4 3 2-3 2 1 -2 1-2 2 3 3 2-3 3 2 2 2 1-2 2 3-4 4 3 2-3 2 1-2 1-2 2 3 3 2-3 3 2 2 2 1-2 2 3-4 4 3 2-3 2-3 2 1-2 1-2 3 3 2-3 3 2 2 2-3 2- 1 2-1 2-3 3 4 3-2 3-4 1-2 1-2 1 1-2 3 3 2-3 3-2 2-3 3—2 2 4 3 4 3-2 3-2 2 1-2 1 1 2—3 3 2 2-3 2 2 2 1-2 4-3 2 3 1-2 1-2 8 1 1 1 3—2 3-4 2-3 2-3 2-3 2-3 2 2-3 4 1-2 1 2-3 2 2-1 2 1 1 1 2 3 1-2 2-3 1—2 2-3 1-2 1-2 Tabulated Survey of the Dyestufts used in ^"ool Dyeing. Name and Shade Method of Dyeing Application Fast Acid Eosine G pat. With 10% Gbiibcr's s.ill and 4''u sulpliiiric .icid, .it the l>..il. As excellently equ.ilising dycstuff used for the production of pink .ind s;ilnion s)i,ides on zcphir and fancy yams and pinf goods. lispc-cially also for fluorescent shades A more concentrated brand is. Fast .'Iciii Eosine G extra. 3% Fast Acid Phloxine A pat. With 10% Glauber's salt and 4 % sulphuric acid, at the boil. For the production of pink shades f.ast to light and sieving on zephyr and fancy yarn and on piece goods, /-'ast At id Phloxine A extra is a more concentrated brand. Fast Acid Magenta G pat. With 10% Glauber's salt and 4% sulphuric acid, at the boil. Kqualises well and is fiist to light. Suit- able for slubbing, yarn and piece goods for bright pink and red shades, instead of the bluer Resorcine dyestuffs which do not equalise so well; for shading other acid dyestuffs. A more concentrated brand is Fast Acid Maoenta G cone. Acid Rosamine A With 10-20",, libuhor's salt and 4"i, sulphuric acid, at the boil. Fast Acid Red A With 10"/o Glauber's salt and 4''/o sulphuric .acid, at the boil. I'sed for red shades fast to light, alkalies and milling. Suitable for loose wool, slubbing and yarn for bright pinks and reds, alone or in combination with chrome developing and mordant dyestuffs. Less frequently em- ployed in piece dyeing. On account of its fastness to light, alkalies and millini; used in all branches of wool dyeing. 0.5«/. 1.5«/. Fast Acid Violet RGE pat. Fast Acid Violet BE pat. -k With 10°/oGlaul>er'ssalt,ind 4''/o suljihuric acid, at the boil. Not quite so fast to milling, but faster to ironing than the Fast Acid Violets described on the jircvious page. Therefore used as fast red ingredients in piece dyeing, viz. in combination with .acid, chrome developing and mordant colours; also on yarn and s I u 1) ,1) i n g ; for shades on knitting and hosiery yarns. More rarely used on loose material and shoddy. Suit;>blc for self shades on wool and silk fabrics. Fast Acid N'iolet R B E ranges in shade between these two brands. Acid Colours. 57 be c Affinity for o C XI fa o 2bc £ E c a O 60 Fastness to Stoving o 2^' m.S s s fa Fastness to Soda Fastness to Milling Fastness to , Alkalies Cotton; Silk Change ; Bleed- i ing 1^ fa r-t, • Bleed- Change^ ing Change ! Bleed- ing Soda . !,„,„ 1 1 4-3 2 3 1-2 1-2 1 1 3-4 4-3 3-4 : 3 3-2 3 3 4 1 1 4 2 3 1-2 1-2 1 1 3-4 4-3 3 : 3 2-3 3-2 3 ; 4 I 1 2 4 2 2-3 2 2 1-2 1 3-4 4—3 2 : 3 2 2-3 1-2 \ 1 4-3 3 4 3-4 2-3 2-3 2 1-2 1—2 3-2 3 2-3 i 3 2-3 2-3 2 i 1-2 2 3-4 4 3 3-2 2—1 2—1 1-2 1-2 3 3 3-4 : 3-4 3 3 2 ; 3 2 3-4 4 3 2-3 2 1 1 \ 1-2 3 3 3-2 \ 3 2 2 2—3 2—1 ! 2 i 3-4 ! 4 3 2-3 2-3 1 1-2 i 1—2 3 3 4 3 3 i 2 3-4 : 3 4a le Tabulated Survey of the Dyestuffs used in \V ool Dyeing. Name and Shade Method of Dyeing Application Rosazeine O With 5 — lO'/o acetic acid, or in an ordinary acid l>atli with 10°/o OlaulK-r's salt and 4 •jo sulphuric acic>il. Basic dyostuff, which is dyed in an acid batli on account of its solubility. I'sed largely on shibbing and yarns for bright pinks, also on />;/•<-<■ giwJs, fine flannels, jaconneLs etc. Also for shading and brightening red acid, mordant and developing colours. A'osa- teinf /■" and G are used for the same pur- poses. Compare also page 78. Acid Magenta G Acid Magenta O Acid Magenta B Acid Violet 4RS 1.5 % Acid Violet 3RA Acid Maroon O Q With 10% Glauber's salt and 3 — 4°;o sulphuric acid, at the boil. Inexpensive red dyestuffs of satisfactory equalising properties. Used largely on yarns and piece goods, where no great demands are made as to fastness to light and alkalies, mostly employed in combination shades for red, claret, brown, blue and navy blues. For similar i)urj)oscs are used; Acid Magenta extra, extra B, Af, jX, D, G, GG, 3G, Acid Cerise O, II, Maroon S, Orseitline H, I>\ Acid Violet 3 K S, II, R cone, nnt: Acid Magenta is easily discharged with hydrosuljjhite. Acid Colours. 59 bo Affinity for o C J3 o fa o ■" bo in c C M fa "I « s faU Fastness to Stoving o in ^ in ■" fa o ■" bo Fastness to Soda Fastness to Milling Fastness to \ Alkalies Zotton Silk Change '. Bleed- ing Change i Bleed- ing Change Bleed- ing Soda i Quick lime 1 4 5 3 3-4 1-2 o 1 2 4 3-4 2 4 2 3 1-2 1-2 2-3 1 1-2 1 4-5 3 2 3 1 3 5 5 2 5 : 2 5 5 2-3 1 2 1 4-5 3 2 3 1 8 5 5 2 5 ; 2 5 5 2—3 1 ; 1-2 1 4-5 3 2 3 1 3 5 5 2 5 ! 2 5 5 2-3 1 : 1—2 1 4-5 3 2 3 1 3 5 5 ; 2 5 ; 2 5 5 2-3 1 : 2—3 2 4 3—2 2 3 : 1 3 4-5 4-5 2 4 i 2 4 ; 4-5 1 1 \ 2 1—2 4 4 3-2 3 ; 1 3 5 5 ; 2 5 : 2 5 ; ^ 60 Tabulated Survey of the Dyestufts used in Wool Dyeing. Method of Dyeing With lO'/o Glauber's sail and '>''lo acetic acid or 4°/o *>''■ pliuric acid, at the boil. With 10 "/o Glauber's salt and 4% sulpluiric acid, at the boil. WiUi 10% Glauber's salt and 4''/o sulphuric acid, at the boil; In order to enh.-ince fast- ness to milling dye with chrome alum, or aftcrtreat with chronic alum, fluoride of chrome or bichromc. The colour must be carefully dissolved; dye with IC/o Glauber's salt and A'jo sul- phuric acid, at the boil. With IC/o (ilauber's salt .and 4% sul]ihuric acid, at the boil. Application Brinhi ba>ic dycstuff, easily soluble in an .icid bath'; and applicable in combination with acid dyestuffs. Suitable on /oose -I'ool, s tubbing and I'ff/n for bright sh.ides which have to sliind light milling, also on fanc)' yarns .ind piece goods for bright shades fast to stoving; other brands are.- Victoria Blue R and 4 Ji. Compare also ]Kige 80. Soluble well equalising violet of satisfactory f.istncss to water and good evening shade. Alone or mixed with other dyestuffs for topping blacks on stubbing, yarn and piece goods, to stand milling with cold water and light milling with so,ip. For piece dyeing brand C B I^ is largely used, on ■iccount of its equalising properties, its fast- ness to alkalies and its good solubility. An important auxiliary' dycstuff in fast wool dyeing on account of its fastness to milling on loose 'cool, stubbing, yarns and piree goods. Also largely used for shoddy material. Good strong colour of very satisfactory equalis- ing properties. Used on stubbing yam, and light piece goods. \Vpt to ])roduce stains in old batlis. Bluer than Acid Violet N ; of simitar fast- ness but more readily soluble. Used on yarn -aniX piece goods, .ilone or in com- bination with other colours for cheap navy blues, suitable also for dyeing shoddy. Neutral Violet O With IQO/o Gt.aubcr's salt and 2% sulphuric acid, or 2) with- out any addition, 3) also with the addition of soap, borax, Glauber's salt or common salt. Simitar to the other Acid Violets, fast to rul)bing and alkalies, it stands washing and milling and is especially suitable for dyeing rags and shoddy goods. Acid Colours. 1 W Affinity for o o o c a to S O bO Fastness to Stoving o Si "J P 2 m Fastness to Soda Fastness to Milling Fastness to Alkalies Cotton Silk Change Bleed- ing Change Bleed- ing Change Bleed- ing Soda Quick lime 2 4 5 4-5 5-4 2 1-2 1 3-2 4 3 4 2 3-2 2-3 3-2 4 3 3-4 2-3 I 2 4 1—2 4-3 2 1-2 2 2 3 3-4 3-4 3-4 3 2-2 3 4-3 4 8-4 4 1-2 1 1 2 3 8 2-3 3-2 2-3 2 -3 3-2 2-3 1-2 4-3 4 4 4 2-1 1 1 3 4 3 3 3 3 4 3-2 2-3 3 3 4 3 4-3 2 1-2 1 1-2 3 3 3 3-4 3 3 3 3 2-3 3 3-4 4 3 4 1-2 1-2 1 1—2 3 3 3-2 3 3-2 3-2 3-2 2-3 4 4 4 4 1—2 1 1-2 3-2 4-3 3 2-3 3-4 2-3 3 2-3 2-3 Tabulated Survey of the Dyestuffs used in Wool Dyeing. Name and Shade Method of Dyeing Application Pure Blue O Opal Blue superior 1.5 •/. Navy Blue V Opal Blue, blue shade 1.5 •/. Soluble Blue S V Soluble Blue R AVith 10 "/o Glauber's salt and 2''lo sulphuric acid, also willi an .addition of 5°/o .almn ; The goods are entered at 100-120" F, the iMlh is brouglit to the boil, and kept boilingfor 1 hour. Added some- times to alum and chrome mor- daiuinj; bath for logwood sha- des, or dyed in one bath with logwood oxalic acid, irt)n-and copper sulphate. Also used for to]>ping and shading logwood colours. The value of these dyestuffs lies, apart from their good fastness to light and water, in the great purity of shade and their tinctor- ial strength. Used occasionally on loose wool in combination w^ith logwood more largely on shot- nos to alk.ili and their equalizing |)ri>|>criies. ( >. i.isi' 'ii.illv used nn loose uool: largely used for >li:uiiii;; >lubliing, in combination with mor- dant and developing dyestuffs. As a fast substitute for Indigo airmine on hosiery-, knitting-, fanc>'-, cari)et- and weaving yarns. Chiefly used in pircr dyeing for ladies' dress goods and light suitings, billiard cloths, for pastel colours, on ladies hats; princi|)ally as a fast ingredient for navy blues, green, olive, brown and fancy sliadcs; for shading chrome developing dyestuffs. In a similar manner are employed: Patent Blue L E, X, iiiperwr. Patent Jiliie I', X, EN, C, E, t'S. Patent Blue J 3 With 10% Glauber's salt and 4°'a sulphuric .icid, at the boil. Similar as regards fastness to Patent Blue \', it is very extensively used, on account of its covering shade, as the best substitute for the fugitive and dearer Indigo carmine, for ctmibination and fancy shades on /leee goods and yarn. For the same |)ur]Joses ser»e: Patent Blue J 1, J 2, J 3 A, JO and JOG. Cyanine 1j With 10% Glauber's salt and 4 ",o sulphuric acid at the boil. Suitable for the same purposes as the preced- ing colours; it is used for mixed and fancy shades, on account of its equalising property and its good evening shade, in piea- dyeing also in rarn dyeing, upon weaving, knitting, and zephir yams. Dischargeable with hydrosulphile. With 10% Gbuber's salt and 4% sulphuric acid, at I the boil. I Satisf.ictorily fast to alkalies, these colours equalise well and are very f.ist to light. Usctl therefore, in acid wool dyeing wherever a high degree of fastness to light is essential ; in yarn dyeing for embroider)-- and fanc)- yarns, especially for Girj)et yams; in piere dyeing chiefly for fancy shades fast to light, alkalies and perspiration, es|)ecially for ladies dress gi>ods and men's suitings, in com- bination with Amidonaphtol Red or Chronw- Irope 2/i, 6 B, f', knittin(; and zephyr yams for delicate reseda and se.Tjirecn shades, on piece goods for similarshadcson ball-drcss materials, shawlsetc. Cheapest green .-icid colour, used on i,7> •• and piece gooth in combination with ii! acid colours for blue, green and brown sha.i -, where no demands are made ;is to f.tstntss to w.ishing, alkalies and light. Further brands are: Acid Green O, .1/, cone. D, and Acid Green solution 5 fold cone. Readily dischargeable with hydrosulphili . Considerably faster to alkalies, storing anB e.riro cone. With 10% Glaubei^s salt and 4 % sul]ihuric acids for navy blue, green, olive and brown shades in combination with Victoria Violet and Indigo substittitc. Also for fancy shades in aimbination with Aito Acid Magenta, Amido- naphlhol Red, Chromotrope etc. and for the production of cheap colouis on knitting- and zephyr yams. A green f.ist to .ilkalies, light .ind stoving; used for the same purposes as Fast Acid Green BB extra on piece goods and yarn. Patent Blue VVS possesses the same pro- perties. Acid Colours. 60 Affinity for o m c o Is o £1 c2^ O M a a Fastness to Stoving o [2 2« 1* Fastness to Soda Fastness to Milling Fastness to ' Alkalies 3 W Cotton \ Silk Change : Bleeding Change Bleeding Change iBIeeJing Soda i Quick 3 2 ; 8 1-2 4—5 4 2 3-4 : 2 4 4 4 \ 3 4 1 ^ 4-5 : *-5 3 1 3 1-2 4 4 1-2 3-4 2 3—2 4 4-5 ; 2 4 2 5 1 5 1-2 1—2 3-4 2 3-4 1—2 1-2 2-3 2 3—4 3 3-2 3-2 3-2 3 3 1 3 —2 1-2 4-3 2 3 1—2 2-1 2 2 4-3 8 3 3 3 3-4 2-3 : 2-3 -3 2 4-3 1-2 3-4 3 1-2 3—2 2 4 4-3 4-3 3 4 3-4 3—4 3-4 2 2 . 4-3 2 3-4 3-2 1—2 2-3 2 4 3-4 3-4 : 3 3-4 3 3 2-3 -2 2 1 4-3 2 3 2 1 1—2 2-1 i 2 4 3-4 1 3 ; 3 3 ^ 8-4 1 1-2 2 Tabulated Survey of the DycstufFs used in Wool Dyeing. Name and Shade Method of Dyeing Application Eoslne 3 G Eosine extra AG Eosine extra soluble Erythroslne extra Phloxlne O Phloxine B Rose Bengale B With 10% Glauber's salt and 5 — 10 % acetic acid ; the goods arc entered at 100—120" F, the tempera- ture raised verj' slowly, especially for the bluer braiuls, up to 175° F and kept at this heat for I hour. Or the material is entered into in a lukewarm bath ])rcpared with h":o alum, 5"o tartar, and 5"'o acetic acid; the bath is heated to 175°F, and kept at this temperature for '/, — 1 hour. On account of their brilliant shades, great fastness to stoving and washing used for the production of bright pink and red shades, parliailarly zfphyr and fancy yarns, and knitting yarns, also on lighter classes of piecf goodi. Besides the specified brands the following are also largely employed : Eosine extra yellow, extra cone, extra I3H, extra 3 li, extra 5 B, extra A cone, extra 2 A, yellow shade .\'o. I, yellow shade A'o. 3, extra blur shade, Erythrosine A, AG, blue shade, vellow shade, extra yellow X, Phlo- xine 0, G, BB, BA extra, 3 GA extra, B extra cone, Rose Bengale G, B cone, 3 B cone, and A. Acid Colours. 73 a 3 cr W Aflfinity for o fa o (3 2b. in C S'S = a O M 11 Fastness to Stoving o o Fastness to Soda Fastness to Milling Fastness to Alkalies Cotton Silk Change Bleeding Change Bleeding Change Bleeding Soda 1 Quick : Lime 4 2 4-3 2 5 2 4 2 1 3-4 3—4 3 3 2-3 3 2 : 2 4 1-2 4-3 2 5 1—2 3 1 1 3 3-4 2-3 '■ 3 2-8 3 1-2 1 4 1 4 2 5 1-2 2 2 1 3 3—4 2-3 3 2—3 3 1—2 1 4-5 1 4 2 5 2-3 4 2—3 1 3 3 2-3 3 2-3 2-3 1 1-2 5-4 1 4 2 5 8 4 2-3 1 3 3 2-3 3 2-3 2—3 1 1-2 5—4 1 : 4 2 5 3 4-3 2-3 1 1 3 3 2-3 3 2-3 2—3 1—2 1-2 5 1 i 4 2 5 3 4-3 2-3 1 1 3—2 3 2 2-3 2-3 \ 2 1 1-2 6a le 74 Tabulated Survey of the DyestufFs used in ^ ool Dyeing. Method of Dyeing Application Dyed in a neutral lialh, (correc- ted with little acetic acid) at 175-190° K. Or in a scxip bath, at 120° — 140" F with 5";o "live oil secified dyestuffs the following brands are used: Auraminf O, I, J I, Fla-.o- phosflihif 4 G cone, 4 G O, G G O, G com:, GO, Chrysnidmc G,Ccryst., C extra cryst., A povihr, C po:cJcr, Phosphine O, Vesuvine 4 JtG com:, 3 A' superior, 5 B cone, cone, extra yellcnv. Basic Colours. 76 Tabulated Survey of the Dyestufts used in >X'ool Dyeing. Name and Shade Method of Dyeing Application Rosazeine B Safranine O Dyed with 5—10% acetic acid, or in a neutial bath (corrected with acetic acid), or in a soap bath. The dyed goods arc stovcd afterwards. soap bath at 140- 150° F. On hosf vvol for dyed and stoved white ; on slubbinu and yarns for pinks and orange shades, c^n zephyr and fanc)' yarns, flannels, muslins etc. for ]iastel shades; for topping trimming cloths. Largely used in com- bination with acid dyestuffs (compare page 58). CUber brands are Hosazehu O, extra, G, li extra. Used on zephyr and fancy yams, cheap piece goods for export, also for covering the silk in wool and silk goods. Safranine con<-., AX I- \ I'll, CdS etc. serve for the s.ime pur]>oses. New Magenta O Methyl Violet 5R superior Methyl Violet 3R superior In a neutral bath at KiO — 175° K, or with the .addition of 1— 2''/o soap. In a soaj) bath at 140- 160" F. Used in self shades on slubbing for pink knitting yarn melanges, sometimes also for „effect" threads, on zephyr and fancy yams; on light woollen and -,corsted goods for ex- port, -.iool and silk fabrics for covering the silk. Suitable for the same jiurposes are the v.arious brands of Magenta which are, however, somewhat less soluble than I\'e-.v Magenta O, and Methyl Violet 4 R, 2 R and R On fancy and zephyr yarns ; on piece goods for delictlc heliotrope shades and for dyeing white. Basic Colours. 3 W Affinity for o ■" be in "^ o in S o S'e so Fastness to Stoving il 3 IS t<4 Fastness to Soda Fastness to Milling Fastness to J Alkalies Cotton ; Silk 1= '|J Change Bleeding Change i Bleeding Change Bleeding Soda S? 1 4 5 3 3-4 1-2 2 1 2 4 3-4 2 4 2 • 3 1-2 ; 1-2 1 4 5 3 3-4 1—2 2 1 2 4 3-4 2 4 2 1 3 1-2 2 2 4 - 5 4 5 2 3 2 4 5 4—5 2 5 2 4 1-2 1—2 1 4 5 4 4-5 1-2 3 2 5 5 4 3 5 3 4 3 3 1 4 5 4 4-5 1—2 3 2 5 5 4-3 3 5 3 4 3 3 j 1 4 5 4 4-5 1-2 2-3 2 5 5 4-3 3 5 3 4 2—3 3-2 2 4 5 4 5 1-2 2 1 4 5 4 2 i 4 2 • 3-4 1-2 1 1-2 ' Tabulated Survey of the DyestufFs used in Wool Dyeing. Method of Dyeing Application Willi 5 — 10"o acetic acid, or in a neutral l)alh (correct- ed with acetic acid), at the lioil; also in a lukewarm soap bath, in which cisc the goods are subsequently stoved. I'sed on locsf wools slubbing and yarn. also piccf gvods for |)roducing direct and stoved whites. On yarns and pine /roods as cheap dyestuffs for bright violet shades, for pastel shades, for topping navy blues on piece goods, also for covering the burls. Kinally silk and wool fabrics in self shades Besides the specified brands the following branils range in shade between Methyl I'lo- let BB and 6 B, viz: Methyl Violet 3B. 4B, Sli- In a neutral bath or with acetic acid, or in a soap bath for dyeing white like the Methyl Violets. They may also be dyed in an acid bath. Are used like the Methyl Violets for while dyeing. Also, on account of their good fastness to washing on loose 'wool and yarns for the production of shades which arc fast to washing and light milling. On fancy yams and piece goods for bright blue shades fast to bleaching and for pastel shades. Can also be employed in an acid bath, and in amibination with acid dyestuffs. Compan page 60- A similar brand is I'lclorni Blue R. Dyed in a weak acetic .acid bath; belter on sulphur mor- dant, with iheadditionof l.^'Yo hyposulphite of soda, .^"/o alum and 3°/o sulphuric acid. Em|)loyed on account of its low price on Inittins; and hosiery yarns, alone or in combination with b,isic violets; also used for cheap export goods. Basic Colours. D Affinity for o •o ^2 o ■" bo m.B S c c ca O M ■" c m'in S '5 13 Fastness to Stoving o II 2^ in c s « Fastness to Soda Fastness to Milling Fastness to Alkalies Cotton : Silk Change Bleeding Cliange iBIccding Change Bleeding Soda ; Quick ; Lime 1 4 5 4 4-5 2 1-2 2 5 5 3 3 : 5 2-3 4 2-3 : 2 1 4 5 4 4—5 1-2 1-2 2 5 5 3 3 5 2-3 4 2—3 2 1 4 5 4 4—5 1—2 1-2 2 5 5 3—4 3 5 2-3 4 2-3 2 2 4 5 4 5 2—3 1-2 1—2 4 4 3-4 3 4 2-3 3 4 3-4 2 4 5 4 5 2 1-2 1-2 4 4 3-4 4 4 a 3 4 4 2 4 5 4 3 1 1-2 2-3 \ 5 5 4 4 4 4 : 3 5 4-5 2 4 5 4 3 1 1-2 2-3 : 5 5 4 4 4 4 3 5 4-5 Tabulated Survey of the Dyestuffs used in Wool Dyeing. Name and Shade Alizarine Yellow .'G Mordant Yellow O Alizarine Yellow GGVV powder Method of Dyeing Application With 10 % Glaulwr's salt and 3 — 4*';o sulphuric acid, boiled for '/» — 'It hour, dcvc- lopi'd with 1 — 3°/obichronic. Yellow dyestuffs which are fast to light and milling and arc used in all branches of fast wiKil dyeing in combination with other chrome developing dyestuffs. Suitable for /oose 'u-ool, stubbing and yams which shav to sutnd milling; further, for knitting, hosiery and carjwt yams ; also employed in piece goods for green sliadcs on Indigo ground and in combination with other chrome developing colours. Com|)arc also p;ige 98. Acid Alizarine Yellow RC With 10— 20'';o Glauber's s-tlt and 5—10% acetite of ammonia or with S'/o acetic acid; the goods are entered at 14)° Y., boiled for '/« hour, then acetic acid is added, .ind the colourdevelop- cd with bidiromc. A yellow dyestuff which does not equalize so well as, but is f.oster to milling and bleed- ing than the foregoing bninds. Used in all branches of f.ist wool dyeing as a yellow ingredient fast to milling, especially on loose -•root, slubbing and yam in combination with other chrome developing colours. Compare also p.ige 98. Alizarine Yellow RW powder With 10% Glauber's salt and 4 % sulphuric acid ; after boiling for '/« — ','4 hour the shade is de\ eloped with bi- chromc or fluoride of chrome. Redder than Alizarine Yellow GGW, but otherwise |x)ssessing similar properties and used in tlic same manner for loose wool, slubbing, yarn and piae goods. Compare also p.ige 100. With 10—20% Glauber's salt and 5 — 10% acetate of ammonia or with 3% acetic .icid; llic goods are entered at 140' !•", aftci boiling for '/j hour, acetic or sulphuric acid is added, and the shade developed with fluoride of chrome or bichrome. Equalises with greater diffimlty ih.an Ali- zarine Red 1 \V S ; may be carbonised with siilphuric acid, and is faster to bleeding and alkalies in milling. Kmployed on loose wool, tops and yarn, less frequently on piece gootis. Compare also page 30. With 10% Glauber's salt and 4 % sulphuric acid, at the boil; ihe-sliadeis develop- ed with fluoride of clmime, or preferably with bichrome. Level dyeing colour very f.tst to light and milling. Used .ts a f.tst reddening ingredient in coml)ination with all other chrome develop- ing colours on loose wool and slubbing, also largely on yarn and piece goods Alizarine Red 3WS and PS are also employed in simi- lar manner (the latter is developed with only '/« — 1 % bichrome). Compare also page 100. Developing Colours. M "a 3 a* W Affinity for o m C o CO o V) c S'i Fastness to Stoving o CO o " bfl Fastness to Soda Fastness to Milling Fastness to Alkalies Cotton Silk l-e 1 to M Change Bleed- ing Change h.e^- ■ Change : B!'<^- i Quick Soda ; ii„e 2-1 3—4 1 3 2 2-1 1 3 2-3 1 2 1-2 2-1 2 1 ; 2 2 1 1—2 2-3 1 : 1 2 2-1 1 3 2—3 1 2-1 2-1 1-2 \ 2-1 1 i 2-1 2 ; 1-2 j 1-2 2-3 ; 2-3 2 2—1 1 2-3 2-3 1 2 1-2 1-2 2 1 i 2 2 1 1—2 4-5 3-4 ; 3—2 3 2 1 3 2-3 1 1 1 1—2 : 1-2 1 1 1 2 \ 1-2 1 • 2-1 3—4 i 3 2 2 2-1 3-4 3 2 2-3 2-3 1-2 ■ 3—2 1—2 i 2-3 2 1 1-2 5 4—5 i 3 3 2 1 3 2 1 1 1 1 i 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1-2 1 1 1-2 2 1 2 3 3 1 1-2 1-2 2 1—2 2 1—2 2 ; 2 82 Tabulated Survey of the Dycstuffs used in Wool Dyeing. Name and Shade Method of Dyeing Application Acid Alizarine Red G pat. Acid Alizarine Red B Acid Alizarine Grenade R Willi 10% Glaubers s.-ill and 3 — 4% sulphuric .icid, at the lM>il; (he shade is develiiped with liichrome. Also dyed on a chrome mord- ant in which cise an addit- ion of 0,5 — 1 °o bichronie is rinally made. Level dyeing colours fast to light, milling and cirbonising, alone or in combinatit.n with other chrome developing colours on loose wool, sliibbing, -eorsted yarn and pirce iroods. On account of their solubility suitable for dyeing in machines. The Acid Alizarine RihIs are particularly suiuiblc for iniiL'\ting madder shades on aimy and carri,igc cloths. Acid Alizarine Grenade R is especially suitable for f.TSt brown, claret and fancy shades. Acid Alizarine Brown R Acid Alizarine Brown B Acid Alizarine Brown BB pat. Acid Alizarine Brown T pat. Dyed in one bath with 10 "o (ilauber"s salt and 2 — 4% sulphuric acid; the shade is developed with 1 — 3% bi- chrome. An excess of acids or of bichrome must be avoided. Whin dyed with acetic acid only, fuller shadi-s are obtained, which are not (piitc so fast. May be dyed also on a chrome mordant. \'ery fast to light and milling; stand cir- bonising with sulphuric acid. Used in all branches of fast wool dyeing in combination with all other chrome developing and mor- dant colours, and with acid dyestuffs which arc fast to chrome. Employed for fast shad. ~ on loose -wool, shibbins;, yarn and />;<■.< spoils in hat dyeing, on shoddy material etc. The following brands, which arc f.-ister to nibbing and lint cotton less, arc used for the same purpose: Atiil Alharinc Iho'.en A'/', J\K and K// extra, the latter leaves cotton effects perfectly clear and is therefore especially suitable for piece goods with white or coloured effects. Developing Dyestuffs. 83 bo .5 3 cr W Affinity for o II o 2,0 C M II M 5 Fastness to Stoving o o Fastness to Soda Fastness to Milling Fastness to Alkalies Cotton Silk Change Bleeding 1^ Change Bleeding Change Bleeding Soda Se 2-3 1-2 2—3 1—2 1 1 2-3 1 1 2 8-2 1-2 2 1—2 2-1 1—2 2—3 2-3 1 1—2 1 1-2 1—2 1 1 1 1—2 2-3 1-2 2 1-2 2—1 2 2-1 1-2 1—2 2-3 1-2 1 2 1-2 1-2 1 1 1-2 1-2 1 1 1-2 1-2 1—2 2 4 3 3-4 2 1 2 2 1 1—2 2-1 1-2 1-2 1 1-2 1-2 2 2 4 3 4 1-2 2 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2—3 4 3 3—4 1—2 2 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 • 1 1 1 1 1 1 '^~^ 4 3 3-4 1—2 1-2 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ; Tabulated Survey of the Dvcstuffs used in ^'ool Dyeinq. Method of Dyeing i 'y a M iiri In- „ i ,, rj- r's s.ilt and 4"'.o siilpliuiic iricl, at iIk- boil, and dtvrl..|).-' fast to light. Used on loose tpool. Yarn and piece goods for claret reds where no great demands are made as to fastness (o milling; on car]>et yams, on curtain and upholster)- goods ; for shading in combination with the copper colours specincd below. With 50 "o Glauber's salt and 3 "/o acetic acid ; the goods are entered at 122—141)° K, the bath heated slowly to the boil, llien l"o sulphuric acid added twice, and the shade develo|x'd with 2% copper sulphate. Is employed in the same manner .is the following dvestuffs. With 30—50% C.laubci's salt and 3 — 4"o sulphuric add for '/i — 1 hour at the boil, then developwl by boi- ling for '/i hour with 2^3 "» copper sulphate. Wm)l fabrics with silk effect threads are dyed at the Imil with the addition of 10 "o ccially suitable for dyeing all wool goods with white silk effects. Developing Dyestuffs. 85 2i° Affinity for ness to bbing ness to ight ;ss to iiing sss to nising Fastness to Stoving o en " 2 ^ Fastness to m.= Soda Fastness to Milling Fastness to Alkalies ta C « 1 c o c S , 3 Cotton; Silk Sc2 i tsa ts-e Change Bleeding S^ Change Bleeding Change : Bleeding Soda Quick 1 u< t. [I. I faU bn t, 1 1 1-2 2 1—2 2 2-3 1 2-1 1 1 1—2 1-2 1 1 1 2 2—3 1 4 2-3 i 3 2 2-3 3 2-3 1 1-2 3 3 2 3 2 2-3 1-2 2 3"" 3-4 \ 2 2 1 2 3 5 1-2 3—4 3—4 2 3 3 2 2 4 5 2 : 2 2-3 3 2-3 2— S 2 1-2 3-2 3 2 3-2 2—1 2-3 1-2 2-3 3-4 1-2 ; 2 1-2 2 2 2-3 3 1-2 3 3-4 4 3-4 3 3—4 2 3 4 I 1-2 2 1-2 2 2 2 3-2 1 3 3 3 3-4 3 3 2 3 4 1-2 i 2—1 1-2 2 2—1 2 3-2 1 3 3 3 1 3-4 3 3 2 ; ^ Tabulated Survey of the Dvestuffs used in ^X ool Dyeing. Method of Dyeing Application With 10- 20 "o GLiubir's salt and 2,5 — 4 °o sulpluiric aciil the );ikkJs arc entered at 122 — 140" F. the bath iM.iled fi)r 1 himr, the shade de- veliiped by boihnnfor '/« — ',4 hour with 2,5% bichrome. In order to increase the fastness to iniUin^, 2 — 3"o lactic acid and 1 — 2"o sul- phuric acid are added to the chrome bath. Yield ilark blues vcr\- fast to light and wearing also fast to perspiration, rubbing and car- bonising. iJrgely used for piece dyeing, alone or in combination with acid dvestuffs, which stand chrome, such ,ts Patent Blue, J-'ast .-till/ I'lolet, Milling Jilut etc. Developing with bichrome, lactic acid and sulphuric .icid incrrascs the fastness to milling; used on loose -wool, sliibbing and yarn. Chromotrope FB iir On loose wool w ith 10 " o Glauber's salt, 3 — 5% acetic acid ; gradually 3 — 4 % sul- phuric acid, to be added; on other goods with 20 ° o (ilauber's salt .ind 3°o sul- phuric acid ; the goods are entered at 140° K. the bath heated to the boil, kept boi- ling for 1 hour and the shade developed with 2'/j— 3% bichrome; or, preferably, with 3% bichrome 2 — 3"o lactic acid and 1 — 2''o sulphuric acid, for '/< hour at the boil. Suitable for light and medium blue shades, fast to light and milling, in fast wool dyeing on loose wool, stubbing; lai^ely used on r«rH and pieee goods, alone or in combination with Alizarine A'ed I It'.S, Alizarine Yellow con; Mordant )'ello7f O and fast acid dyc'Stuffs suable to chrome. As a ground or used also as a topping colour in combination with indigo. Employed in the same manner as the fore- going for medium and dark blue shades. With 10% Glauber's salt and 4 ° o sulphuric acid at the boil and developed in one bath with 2— 3",o bichrome also suitable for dyeing on a mordant. Fast to milling and light. Especially suit- able for darkening and for the production of combination shades in combination with other chrome developing colours on loose- vool, stubbing, yarn and piece goods. Developing Dyestuffs. 87 C "a 3 W Affinity for o fa o fa O M ■" .s Fastness to Stoving o h U fa o in C £ « 1^ Fastness to ' Fastness to Soda 1 Milling Fastness to Alkalies ; Cotton; Siik faU Change Bleeding Change Bleeding' Change Bleeding Soda Quick , Lime | 3—4 2-3 2-3 2—1 2-1 2—1 1-2 I 1 2-H 2-3 2-1 2-3 1-2 2-1 1—2 2 3 -4 2—3 ; j 2-8 2-1 2-1 2-1 1-2 1 1 2-3 2-3 2-1 2 1-2 2-1 1-2 2 3—4 2 ; 2-3 1-2 1-2 2 1—2 1 1 3 2-3 2-3 3-2 2 2-8 2 2 3-4 1 2 1-2 1-2 2-1 1-2 1 1 1-2 2 2 2-1 2-1 2—1 2 2 1 1 3-4 1 1 1—2 2 1-2 1-2 1 1 1 2—1 1 1-2 1-2 1—2 1-2 2-J 8-4 1-2 1 1—2 2-1 2 1-2 1 1 2-1 2 2 2-3 2 2 2-1 2 3 1-2 2 1-2 1-2 2 1--2 1—2 1 2-1 2—3 1-2 2-1 1-2 1-2 1-2 1-2 t 88 Tabulated Survey of the DycstufFs used in W ool Dyeing. Name and Shade Method of Dyeing Application Acid Alizarine Blue OR pat. Acid Alizarine Blue I^B pat. Fast Mordant Blue R pat. Acid Alizarine Blue WK pat. CTiromotrope 8R Wilh 20 »„ Gl.iiiber-s s.ilt and 3 — 4% sulphuric acid, at the boil, developed wilh 2 — 3 " fluoride of chroini', or wilh 1 — 2 Vs % bichtoiiie. For jjoods which do not equalize easily the bath is prcparcil with 3—5 "o acetic acid at first, and then sul- phuric acid gradually addid. May also be dyed on a mordant. Wilh 20 "o Glauber's salt and 3 "io acetic acid ; the (jootls arc entered at 140— ICO " I'., the bath heated to the boil ; after boiling for '/» llour 1 — 2 "o sulphuric acid is added, and the shade developed with 2 — 3"/o bichiome. Also suit- able on a mordant. With 20% Glauber's s.ilt and 3 % sulphuric aciil ; the giHids arc cnteiwl at 140° K, the bath heated to the boil, and kejit boiling for 1 hour; then 3 " bichrome is added, and the shade developed by boiling for another hour. With 20% Glauber's salt and 3 — 5''o sulphuric .icid, at the Ixiil, and developed in the same bath, by boiiiiig for 'Z, — I '/t hours, witii 2 — 5 % fluoride of chrome. May alsi> lie used on a chrome niord.inl. l-'ast to nibbing, verj- fast to light, and very well equ.ilising. Used largely on piece g the l>oil within 'It hour, kept lioii- inj; for 1 hour and the sh.ide then developed by lioiling for 1 hour with S'/o l>ichronicor 4°/o fluoride of chrome. Also suitable for dyeing a mordam. With 20% Glauber's salt; goods not dyeing through easily require still greater amounts and 3% suiphuric acid, at the boil, developed with 2 — 4''/o fluoride of chrome or 1 — 3%bichrome. With 10— 20% Glaul>er's salt and 5°/o acetic acid, at the lx)il. developed with l-2''/o bichrome If re- quired 1 — 2''/o sulphuric .icid are added Itefore llie addition of chrome, in oider to ex- haust the bath. For the prtxluction of green, brown and | bronze shadi-s fast to milling and light on /oosr i«vt'/, slubbing and yorn. For application on a mordant compate(«ge 10^. The brand 11 is rather bluer and clearer; it is used for the s.nme purpose. Penetrates better than Ceruleine B W R, faster to bleedmg. but not so fast to alka- lies. Used on slubbingand u'rodies, in combination with other developing ami fast acid colours; much used in "apparatio dyeing", also on a mordant see page 62. Dyed in a single l>ath with 20'''o Olauber's s.ilt and o"/o acetic acid, at 122° F, after boiling for 'It hour, 1 — 2% sulphuric acid to be added, boiled for '/> ^^oui , then developed with 1 — 3°o bi- chrome by boiling for '/< hour. Like the brand B; can also be developed with fluoride of chrome, or dyed on a mordant. On account of its fastness to milling and light used on slubbing yarns and Jiiece gooJs for the production of mixed and fancy shades fast to niilbng, in combination with other chrome dcvelojiing colours. Is employed in the same manner as the brand B ; still faster to light and milling, especially when developed with bichrome ; for that reason it is also used on loose uvo/. With 20% Glaulier's salt and 3°o sulphuric acid; the gooiis are entered at 140° K., the Kith heatctl to the boil, kept boiling for 1 hour; then 3°'o bichrome are ad- ded, and the balh boiled for another hour. With 20 °o Glauber's salt and 3 °'o sulphuric acid, devel- oped with 3°o bichrome or preferably, with 3"o bi- chrome, 3°/o lactic »cid and 1 — 2°'o sulphuric .icid. Black shades fast to light and water on slubbing and yarn for moderate milling; on />/<■<■<• gooi/s for black fast to water and perspinilion, c-spccially for lighter goods. Compare also page 38. Black shade fast to light, rubbing, and wearing used sometimi-s on /oase wool fr self blacks, on slubbing for knitting yarn melanges, on yarn for milling in water and soap; also largely used on piWe goods for blacks of great f.istness and beauty. Further brands are Chromotrope 5^ and SR, Developing Dyestuffs. bo c 3 O" 1 Affinity for o " bo (n c o o ■" bo •n.S o bB ■" .S S'S Fastness to Stoving o 1* o ■" bo m.C 1* Fastness to Soda Fastness to Milling Fastness to Alkalies Cotton; Silk Si; tJi-e rat/) IB a Change ; Bleeding Change iBIeeding Change : Bleeding Soda j '^Z^ 1 4 4 \ 4 4 2-3 1 4 3 : 1 2 1-2 2 1-2 ; 1 2 ; 1-2 1-2 1--2 4 1-2 2-3 2 3 3-2 2 1 \ 1 I " 3-2 1—2 2-3 1 3-2 2-H I 4 4 3-4 ^ 2—3 2-1 1—2 2-1 : 1 2 2-3 1-2 1 1-2 ; 1—2 1-2 1 4 4—3 3 2 2 2 1—2 1-2 j 1 2 2-3 2—1 2-1 1-2 : 1-2 1-2 1 i 1 4 3—4 3 2 2 1-2 1-2 1 1 2-1 2-3 1-2 1-2 1 ; 1-2 1-2 1 4 2 2-3 2 2-3 2 1—2 1 ; 1 2 2 2 ; 2—3 1-2 i 2-3 2-3 2 4 2 3 2 1 1-2 1-2 1 i 1 2 2-1 1-2 2-3 I 2-1 1 2 2 2 92 Tabulated Survey of the DycstufFs used in Wool Dyeing. Name and Shade Method of Dyeing ., Application Acid Alizarine Black 3 B extra pat. Acid Alizarine Black 3 B pat. Acid Alizarine Black R pat. Acid Alizarine Black R C. pat. Acid Alizarine Black RH pat. Acid Alizarine Black T pat. Acid Alizarine Black T G pat With 10 "o GLiubci's s;ill and 4 "o sulphuric acid, devel- oped with 'i — 3% bichroine by boiling for '/4 hour. lv|u^ilise very wclUvoiy fast to light, rubbing;, steaming and wearing. Most extensively used in all branches of fast wool dyeing. More rarely on hosf ntateriai^ and only for light buckskin milling; very suitable for dyeing and printing of slubbing; used to a large extent on -corstril yarn and pure goods for men's suitings, worsted goods and cheviots. The bluer brands are also employed in combination with logwood, oxalic acid, chrome alum or fluoride of chrome. i Much used in hair hat liymig, owing to their penetration ; also for black on stiffened vool hats without logwood. Of great impor- tance in -corstfii yarn dyeing, on account their of eiisy manipulation and of their good ecpialising property , especially when dyed and developed in separate baths. L;irgcly used in apparatus dyeing; iron vessels do not affect them injuriously ; if copper vessels are used an addition of sulphocyanide of ammonia is necessary. Developing Dyestuffs. 93 Affinity for o m C S J3 o o "1 .5 v B c « tn " a " o ■" -P Fastness to Stoving o in ^ 2m S « fa Fastness to Soda Fastness to Milling Fastness to Alkalies Cotton Silk t- fa Change Bleed- ing 1^ Change Bleed- ing CH=.n«e| Bl^- Soda Quick 2-3 3-2 2-3 4-3 2 1-2 1-2 1 1 1-2 3 2 1-2 2-3 1-2 : 2 1-2 1 3 4-3 2 2 1-2 1 1 1 8 2-1 1 2 1 \ 2 1 1 j 3-2 1-2 3-4 1-2 1-2 1-2 1 1 1 2-3 2-1 1 2 1 ^ 2—1 1 1 3-2 2 3-4 2 2 1-2 1-2 1 1 2-3 2-1 1-2 2 1—2 : 2-1 1-2 1 3-2 2 3-4 2-1 2 1—2 1—2 1 1 2—3 2 1-2 2 1-2 i 2—1 2-1 1-2 j 3-2 2 3—4 2 2 1—2 1-2 1-2 1 2-3 1-2 1—2 2 : 1 : 1 1—2 : 2—1 2-1 1-2 3-2 1 2 3-4 2 2 1—2 1-2 2-1 1 2—3 2-3 2 2-8 2-1 ; 2-1 1-2 1-2 Tabulated Survey of the Dyestuffs used in W ool Dyeing. Name and Shade Method of Dyeing Application Chrome Black 2G Chrome Black B Chrome Black T With 10% Glauber's s.ill .iiid 5 — I0°'o acftic acid, ilevclopcil by boiling for 'It— I hour with 1' ,— 2% bichroinc and 2 — 3°o copper sulphate. Acid Alizarine Black SET paste pat. \\r\' fast lo milling, steaming anoil and the bath kept l>oilin); for 1^ — 1 '/• hours. Also used as a one bath colour viz devcloiK'd wilh bichrome. On an alum and tartar mord- ant with the addition of tannin and acetate of lime; the goods are entered at 105° y., the bath healed slowly to the boil and kc])t boiling for I'/j houre. Alizarine Red PS powder Alizarine Red IW paste On a bichrome.- and tartar or bichrome, lactic acid ami sul|)huric acid mordant; the goods are entered at 1( 0" !•"., (water containing lime is corrected wilh acetic acid) ; llie bath is heated slowly to tlie boil and kept boiling for 1 "/s hours. Similar to Alizarine Yellow GGW; and employed in the same manner. See pre- vious page. (Compare also page 60). Dyed on an alum imd tirtar mordant ; the goods are entered at 101° F. with the addition of 2% tannin and '2,5—7,6% acetate of lime, j the bath heated slowly to ihc I boil and kept boiling for 1 'It hours. On a. bichrome and tartar mordant or bichrome ami sulphuric acid (lactic acidi mordant; ihegoods arc entered at 104" F., the bath heated slowly to the l)oil and kept boiling for 1 '/j hours, to ex- haust the bath acetic acid is added. On a bichrome and tartar mordant, or bichrome and suli)huric acid (lactic acid) ; the goods are entered at 105" K., the bath heated slowly to the boil and kept boiling for I'/j hours whilst adding acetic acid. On an alimi and tartar mord- ant, with the addition of 2'7o tannin and 2,5— 7..'j"/o acetate of lime; the goods are entered at 104° 1'"., the bath is healed slowly to the boil, and kept boiling for 1 7i hours. On /oo.\r iiialenal for madder shades for all miNcd shades in combination with ali- zarine and wooil dyestuffs ; on slubbing and worsted yarn for buckskins and all kinds of milled goods; in piece dreing. Alizarine A'eif ill's, PS and llie somewhat bluer sirs are more soluble than ihe Alizarine paste brands, therefore suitable for dyeing in machines and on piece goods; they am ilso f.ister to rubbing and bleeding than the paste brands. For the application of the S brands as one bath coloure see p.Tge 80. Besides 1 \V the following paste br.mds, are largely used ; Alizarine Red 4FII' paste and 2lilV paste ; 4F\V is yellower 2BW bluer than W\ paste.' Alizarine and Mordant Dyestuffs. 101 3 W Affinity for o m .£ C J3 o ses. Ceruleine HWR On a bichromc and tartar or bichrome, lactic add and sulphiunc acid mordant; the dycbath is a>rrectcd with acetic acid, the goods entered at 86-1040 ].- the Kith heated to the boil, kept boiling for I'/i hours whilst adding acetic add. Employctl in the same manner as the fore- going brands ; stronger .icid mordants are pcnuissible. Bluir and brighter than the fonner. Ceruleine paste D and l!R paste possess the same properties. • Suitable also OS a chrome developing colour. Compare IKige 90. |l Dyed on a bichromc .ind ' tartar mordant with acetic acid ; the gds are entered at 86" 1"'., the balh healed slowly to the iKiil, and kept boiling for 2— 2'/i hours. Alone or in combinalion with alizarine dycstuffs on loose -eool, slubbing, yarn, and pieee gooJs. In hydrosulpliilr or the various feriHrntation vats. Of the same fastness as Indigo MLB, but of a purer, redder shade. Used in fast wool dyeing on /iiJs for the production of brij;ht blue sh.ides alone or in combination with Indigo MI.B. I„-irgely employed for the m.-tnufacture of specially fine faced cloths. In hydrosulphile or ihc various fcnncntation vals. In fast wool dyeing on loose 71V0I, slubbing, '.mrsted yarn and pieee goods for the pro- duction of shades ranging from the lightest to the darkest blue. >!\s fast blue ground for darkblue, olive, green, drab etc. shades in combination with other dycstuffs. The various commerdal brands are described on page 151. Alizarine and Mordant DyestufFs. 109 Affinity for o ! ■" be o 2., V c C M o bO ■" c Si Fastness to Stoving o in ^ in u c « o 1^ Fastness to Soda Fastness to Milling Fastness to Alkalies Cotton Sillc Fastn Rub Fastn Li Change Bleeding Change Bleeding Change Bleeding Soda Quick - 4 3 3 2 2 1-2 1-2 I 1 1-2 2 1 2 1 3 3 - 4 3 3 2 2 1-2 1-2 1 1 1-2 2 1 2 1 3 3 - 4 8 3 2 2 1-2 1-2 1 1 1-2 2 1 2 1 3 3 i 1 4 3 4 2-3 1 2 1-2 1 1-2 2 1-2 2 1 2 1-2 2 ! j j - 4 3 3-4 3-2 2 2 2-3 2 1-2 2 2 1-2 2 1-2 3 1 2-3 4 4 3—4 1 2-1 1 1 1 1 1-2 1 1 . 1-2 1 1 1 ' 1 4 4 3-4 1 2-1 1 1 1 1 1-2 1 1 1-2 1 1 i 1 Part II. The Methods generally employed in Wool Dyeing. -- a@c=— r or almost all artificial dyestufts which are on the market, the wool fibre has an affinity which becomes apparent as coloured effect when wool is dipped into solutions of the dyestuffs in water or other solvents. This affinity, however, changes with the different chemical composition of the many dyestuffs, and consequently, the conditions also vary under which the union of the dyestuffs with the wool fibre is best effected; in most cases the dyestuff solutions are heated for a longer or shorter time, and tlie assistance of other chemical substances, of mordants and auxiliary mordants is necessary, m order to procure the best possible coloured effect of the various dyestuffs upon the wool. In accordance with the nature of the colour, the dyeing methods differ, and the additions to the dyebath vary. In the following pages we propose to describe the methods generallj' adopted in wool dyeing, and employed for the various classes of dyestufts. In discussing cur subject we shall closely follow the division carried out in the first part of this work: 1. Dyeing in an acid bath. In this section all dyestuffs dyeing wool in an acid bath will be dealt with in regard to their mode of dyeing. They include the great number of Acid and Azo Dyestufts; to these, however (inasmuch as the present work only takes the dyeing of all wool goods into, consideration) certain Dianil Dyestuffs are so nearly allied, both as regards chemical composition and mode of application, that their inclusion seems justified. Looked at from the chemical point of view, the dyestuffs which are comprised in this group, represent sulphonic acids of very many different classes of colours — azo- dyestuffs, nitro- dyestuffs, tri- phenylmethan- dyestufts, anthraquinone- dyestuffs, induline- dyestuffs etc. — which, by means of their one or more sulpho- groups, are capable of uniting in an acid bath with the wool substance (reacting as a base) into dyed combinations of a presumably salt- like nature. Naturally their mode of application fluctuates between relatively wide limits, according to acidity, molecular size and composition of the dyestufts. 2. Dyeing in an alkaline bath. This method of dyeing must be looked upon as a variation of the dyeing in an acid bath, and it is to be applied to the group of Alkali Blues. Although these colours belong chemically to the dyestuffs classed under group I, their free colour acids, contrary to those of the other acid dyestufts, are so little soluble in an ordinary acid dye bath, that it is necessary to resort to a certain device: they are dyed in the form of their easily soluble alkali salts, and t'le shade afterwards developed by treating with acid. 3. Dyeing in an aeetie aeid bath is the method employed for Resorcine Dyestufts, These, contrary to the previous groups, are not sulphonated, but as they are derived from resorcine, they possess a weak acid character, which enables them to form salts with basic substances, and consequently, also with the wool fibre. The colour acids of the resorcine dyestuffs, however, are little soluble in the presence of stronger acids, so that it is necessary to keep them in solution, and apply them in dyeing by means of the relatively weak acetic acid. file 114 General methods or wool dyeing. 4. Dyeing in a neutral bath: This method is employed for the basic colours, which represent the oldest artificial dyestuffs. With acids they combine to salts, and in this form they are placed upon the market as soluble products. A simultaneous application of basic and acid dyestufls is therefore as a rule, impracticable, owing to a mutual compensation; nor is the dyeing with basic colours in an acid bath practicable, since the acid would attract the dyestuff and thus prevent the wool fibre from being dyed. On the other hand, the dyeing of the wool with basic dyestufls is successfully brought about in a neutral bath, whereby a most satisfactory, if not energetic union of the dycstutV base with the wool fibre is effected. In this case the latter acts, in all probability, as a weak acid. 5. Dyeing in an acid bath and developing with metal salts: 1 he dyestufi's included in this group, whose most important members are the Chrome Developing Dj'cstufis, correspond in their chemical composition with the dyestufls of group 1. Almost all of them contain in their molecule, one or more sulpho- groups which enable them to unite direct with the wool; a few azo dyestufls only, derived from Salicylic acid, such as Alizarine Yellow WW G, contain no sulpho-group, but a so-called carboxyl, which is equivalent to the former in respect of promoting solubility and the formation of salts. All the dyestufls in this group possess however, a second characteristic feature; owing to a particular grouping ol their atoms they either combine with metal salts into peculiar salts — lakes — of much greater fastness than their acid dyed shades; or they change into more stable oxidation products under the influence of oxidizing agents; or, lastly — as is the general rule — they react in both directions when treated with Bichronie which has an oxidizing, and, at the same time, salt forming eflect; so that the final results, which mostly excel in their great fastness, contain in all probability, metal lakes of oxidation products of the original dyestuffs. 6. Dyeing upon previously mordanted material : This application refers to dyestuffs which are most generally derived from Alizarine. They are mordant dyestufls, viz: they are, in consequence of tlie peculiar grouping of their atoms, capable of forming characteristically dyed salts, with insoluble metal oxides previously deposited on the wool fibre, which lakes are distinguished for great fastness. They have thus a close connection with those dyestufls of group 5, in which only a lake formation takes place. To apply the mordant dycstufl's in the same manner as these developing dyestufls, however, is with few exceptions, not possible, because thej' lack the sulpho-group, which makes the dyestufls soluble in an acid bath, and causes their direct affinity for the wool fibre; furthermore, their free colour acids are so insoluble in acid, that they would only be very superficially fixed on the fibre. Only by introducing- sulpho or carbo.xyl- groups, is the acidity of these mordant colours, and consequently also the solubility and affinity for the wool fibre sufficiently enhanced, so that for example Alizarine Red 1 WS and Acid Alizarine Blue BB, can be used as developing dyestufls also. On the other hand, manj- developing dN'estufl's, which by an aftertreatment with metal salts form fast lakes, may often be used together with mordant dyestufls; in most cases, however, a final addition of small amounts of Bichronie is made, in order to oxidize the chrome lakes of the dyestufls completely, and perfect their fastness. This combination of mordant dyestufls with developing dyestuffs is of great practical importance, as will be seen later on, in order to cheapen the pro- duction of the mordant dyestufls. 7. Vat Dyeing: This mode of application is characteristic of Indigo and its derivatives: these are dyestufls insoluble in the usual solvents, and their employment for dyeing is only possible by changing them into the alkali salts of their leuco compounds, whereby they become soluble in water, and consequently are made suitable for dyeing. Their characteristic application stamps all these dyestufls as belonging to one separate group. Stocking and dissolving of dyestulTs. Hfj In continuation of the above named mctliods of dyeing, tliere will follow a brief description of the s. Methods of Altering the Properties of Wool, which are occasionally employed in order to diminish or increase the affinity of the fibre for one or the other groups of dyestufts. Before entering into detail about the various chapters, we will briefly refer to the storing and dissolving of the dj'estufts. The Storing of Dyestuffs. The dyestuffs used in wool dyeing are put on the market either in the form of powder or of paste. They are most conveniently stored in a place some distance apart from tli(.- dye-house; the store-room ought to be cool, of moderately even temperature, and protected from frost. No steam pipes should be conducted through, or employed within the store-rooms, as in the former case, paste colours might be dried up, and in the latter case, those in powder form might be affected by moisture. The dyestufts in powder must be stored in tins or kegs and kept covered, because some of them are liable to absorb water from the air, and to cake together so that they present difficulties in weighing and dissolving. Paste colours are best stored away from the dry dyestufts; the casks should first be covered with a damp cloth, and then with a lid, by which means the drying up of the pastes is avoided. As many paste dyestufts settle more or less when standing for some time, they should be well stirred before being weighed, in order to ensure equal consistency, and con- sequently even results throughout the cask. Although frost is not detrimental to the dyestuffs, it should nevertheless be guarded against as much as possible because paste colours especially arc liable to desintegrate on freezing, and in thawing a deterioration of the fine distribution of the colouring substance would take place, which is detrimental to the productiveness of the dyestuft". Should the freezing of paste dyestufts have been unavoidable, the thawing must be carried out slowlj', and the dyestuff well stirred before use, and dissolved with particular care. The Dissolving of Dyestuffs. All the dyestufts in powder, used in wool dyeing, are soluble in water, with the ex- ception of Indigo. They are dissolved (those named below excepted) in a small vessel, by pouring pure boiling water, by preference condensed water — which is available in every dyeworks — over them. It is advisable to convert the colour into a paste at first, with a little water only, and then to add more water whilst stirring constantlj', until a complete so- lution is effected; in most cases the ten to fifteen-fold quantity of water, as compared with the amount of colour used, will suffice. For dissolving the dyestufts, small wooden tubs, or better still, glazed earthenware vessels which can be cleaned quickl}^ are suitable. For dyestufts which are not affected by copper, copper vessels — being unbreakable — are also serviceable. Acid dyestufts which are not easily soluble, especially Dianil dyestuffs, are sometimes dissolved with a small addition of Soda; but it is better to dispense with it if possible, in consideration of the danger to the wool fibre involved in its use, and rather to effect the so- lution by boiling. For Basic dyestufts, which must not be dissolved together with other dyestufts, an addi- tion of acetic acid is advantageous; the best results are obtained by first making the dye- stuffs into a paste with some acetic acid, and then adding the hot water. Some basic dyestuft's, as e. g. Auramine, must not be dissolved in boiling water; in fact the temperature ought not to exceed 101 — 122" F. Paste dyestuffs are mixed with hot soft water and dissolved gradually. 116 General method!) of wool dyeing. The dyestuflf solutions are added to the dyebath through a filtering cloth or a liair sieve; any undissolved dyestufT particles must then be completely dissolved by a further addition of hot water. In order to save time, especially when using acid dyestuffs, the colour is, in practice, often boiled up in the dyebath itself. Although generally this proceeding cannot be ap- proved of, as there is always the danger of some small particles of dyestuff remaining un- dissolved and floating about in the dyebath still, many acid and chrome developing dyestuffs may nevertheless be dissolved in the acid bath, without risk of making stains. The following dyestuffs are peifectly free from this fault: Chinoline Yellow O, Xaphtol Yellow S, Flavazine 3GL, Flavazine T, Orange G, New Coccine O, Nassovia Scarlet O, Azo Acid Red B, oB, Amido Naphtol Red G, BB, (iB, Chromotrope RR, 6B, Victoria Violet 4BS,4BSL, 8BS, Azo Acid Blue B, Naphtalene Blue B, B extra, R, Patent Marine Blue LE, Patent Blue V, N, L, LE, Cyanine B, Naphtalene Green V. Generally, however, dyestuffs ought not to be dissolved in the acid dj'ebath, especially : Milling Yellow O, Milling Scarlet 4R cone. Fast Red O, Roccelline N, Cloth Red O, Alphyl Blue Black O, OK, Fast Blue, Fast Blue Black O, Nigrosine, Fast Acid Violet, Fast Acid Blue R, Acid Rosamine A, Milling Blue 2R extra. Acid Violet R cone, new, N, 5BF, Neutral Violet O, Neutral Blue R, 3R, Pure Blue, Cotton Blue, Opal Blue, Soluble Blue, Bleu de Lj'on, Blackley Blue, Guernsey Blue, Opal Blue, Cloth Blue, Full Blue, Navy Blue, Methyl Alkali Blue, Alkali Blue, Alkali Violet, Alizarine Yellow GGW, Acid Alizarine Yellow RC, Acid Alizarine Blue WE, Acid Alizarine Black SE, SET, SN, SNT, Chrome Black B, T, 2G, Alizarine Brown, Galleine cone, W powder, R cone, powder, Ceruleine cone. BW cone, BWR cone. Contrary to the general rule, viz to effect the solution of dyestufis by means of hot water, tlie following products are only to be dissolved with cold water: Alizarine Blue SB, SBW, SR, SRW, SBR, S2R, SRX. Alizarine Green S. Ceruleine paste SW, S, cone. Comparative strength of Paste Below we show the comparative s paste form and in powder, viz : part Acid Alizarine Black SE powder „ „ „ SET powder Alizarine Yellow GGW powder RW „ Orange powder „ Brown „ Alizarine Blue SB, SBW, SR, SBR pdr. Galleine cone. Ceruleine cone. „ S cone. Ceruleine BWR Indigo MLB powder and corresponding Powder Dyestuffs. trengths usually existing between the colours in — about .T parts Acid Alizarine Black SE paste — „ 3.3 „ „ „ „ SET paste = 5 parts Alizarine Yellow GGW paste ^5 „ Alizarine Yellow RW paste = 5.3 „ Alizarine Orange 16 "/o = ■* „ „ „ 20 "/o — 4 „ Alizarine Brown 20°/o -^ - „ ,, '., 40"/o = 3 „ Alizarine Blue SB,SBW,SR, SBR paste — about 2.25 parts Alizarine Blue A, F, R, RR, DN, DNW paste =^ about 4.5 parts Alizarine Blue B, (142 paste = 10 parts Galleine paste A, paste R =^ about 6 parts Galleine paste R double = about 7.5 parts Ceruleine paste A = about 6 parts Ceruleine paste SW = 10 parts Ceruleine paste B. = 5 „ Indigo MLB paste = 5 „ Indigo MLB/Vat 1 = 2 „ Indigo MLL,V»' paste. Dyeing in an Acid balh. 117 I. Dyeing in an Acid bath. The most important, and in wool dyeing, most generally employed method, is that of dyeing in an acid bath. Its application is simple, and the greatest number of wool dyestiifis, namely, all Acid and Azo dyestuffs, inclusive of the Dianil dyestuflfs, can be dyed by it; moreover, of all dyeing methods it is least injurious to. the wool fibre. The principle of dyeing in an acid bath, consists in the treatment of the goods with the dyestuff solution at the boil, together with acids or acid salts. The chemical reaction which takes place, is probably this: the wool fibre acting as a base, turns to a salt-like compound with the colour acids which are liberated by this acid dyeing process. This salt formation is assisted by heating, and is completed by boiling the wool fibre in the dyebath for a longer or shorter period as the case requires; it is, however, very rarely a quantitative one, and usually remains stationary when a state of equilibrium, difi'erent in each case, is arrived at, which depends partly upon the chemical affinity nf the dyestuflf to the wool fibre ; partly upon its solubility. The typical dyeing process, when dyeing in an acid bath, is: The dyebath is prepared with the necessary amount of dyestuff (in solution) to which are added lO^/o Glauber's Salt and 47o Sulphuric Acid or lO^/o Tartar Sub- stitute; the material is entered at 140—1.58° F, the bath heated to the boil witliin '/i — 'li hour, and boiling continued for ^li—VI« hours. According to the nature of the animal fibre which is to be dyed, and to the character and properties of the dj'estuffs used, certain modifications of the above mentioned normal method are not only permissible, but often necessary in order to produce good results. The first requirement, apart from the demands for fastness varying in the different branches of the industry is, that the goods are evenly and thoroughly dyed to the desired siiade, and that they are free from stains and irregularities in appearance. Only in rare cases a thorough pe- netration is not so essential (certain oriental cloths and black hat bodies). Equalizing depends — apart from the careful and accurate preparation of the goods, to 'which we shall refer in greater detail in part III, when discussing the application of the dyestuffs in various branches of the industrj- — in the first place, on the manner in which the dyeing process is carried out. As the causes of uneven results of dyed goods dift'er, so also the irregularities them- selves vary: 1. Spots and colour stains are caused by small undissolved dyestuff particles which are riiechanically precipitated on the cloth, and can be detected as such, by being rubbed with white linen etc. 2. Cloudiness and general unevenness: piece goods show darker and lighter places and creases; yarns appear streaky; sometimes also yarns and pieces are lighter inside than outside; and where the yarn is tied, and at the cross cuts of firmly woven, pieces light places are to be seen. All these faults are caused by insufficient pene- tration. 3. Some pieces appear at the first glance to be dyed evenlj', but on closer examina- tion are mottled and knittery, i. e. each separate wool fibre appears in itself unequally dyed, in such a manner that the staple is dyed darker or to another shade than the tips. The two first named irregularities — provided they are not produced by defective preparation of the goods, — can be avoided by a suitable change of the dyeing method, though they are, in the first place, caused by the dyestufts used. The third kind of unevenness the ''knitteriness" is chiefly to be attributed to the nature of the dyestufls, and although it may also be more or less mitigated by a change of the mode of dyeing, still it is unavoid- able in some cases. Certain goods are particularly subject to coming up "knittery" owing to the quality of the wools employed, or to the texture of the fabric, and this drawback can only be avoided by using dyestufls which do not dye knittery on these goods. 118 General methods of wool dyeing. There may, however, be instances where the knittery effect is neither due to the na- ture of the dyestuffs used, nor to the dyeing process. If the blending of the wools is faultily carried out, e. g. if very coarse and very fine wools arc mixed, or fleece wools added, knittery results are liable to occur, despite the employment of the best equalizing dyestuffs. Colour spots appear when the dyestuffs or their colour acids are insoluble, or so little soluble in the acid bath, that they become resinous or sticky on being heated, — cake to- gether and attach themselves to the goods. This drawback can mostly be avoided by carefully dissolving the dyestuffs. It is abso- lutely necessary to filter the solutions, and also very advantageous to add these solutions to the dyebath gradually. In no case whatever must the acid dyebath itself be used for dissolving these dyestuffs, nor may the latter be put direct into the liquid in powder form. The colour particles would thus very easily cake together and in this state adhere to the goods, whilst it is highly de- sirable that the colour acids of these dyestuffs be distributed most evenly, arid in as diluted a form as possible throughout the whole dyebath, so that the separate particles have no op- portunity to unite, but gradually dissolve in the liquid. As the safest means of preventing the precipitation of colour specks, and the formation of stains, a slight change of the normal dyeing method is to be recommended : The goods are first boiled with the dyestuff alone, or with Glauber's Salt; after '/< — 'i hour the sulphuric acid or tartar substitute is added, either in one addition or in several portions and then the dyeing operation is carried out In the usual manner. A special case of the formation of stains may here be pointed out ; it refers to dye- stuffs which are not easilj' soluble, or liable to form spots. In making up a new bath and preparing the dyeliquid at the usual temperature with Glauber's salt, sulphuric acid, and the carefully dissolved dyestuff, the dye acid will nevertheless sometimes precipitate. If the dyebath is then gradually heated to the boil, after the goods have been entered, it may occur that the carbonic acid contained in the water, rises in small bubbles to the surface, and carries with it particles of the colour acid, which cake together in the form of sticky froth and adhere to the material as dyespots. This defect, which, as mentioned, occurs only in new baths and is the result of particular conditions of the water, can best be counteracted by changing the usual dyeing method as follows : The bath is prepared with Glauber's Salt and sulphuric acid, and the dyestuff" solution added after boiling. The goods are then entered at the boil, and the dyeing operation finished in the usual manner. The fact that, contrary to expectation, certain dyestuffs although properly dissolved do not equalize well when dyeing weft yarn, zephyr yarn, and carpet yarn in a new bath is pro- bably to be attributed to the same cause; but the same dyestuffs equalize without dilTiculty if the bath, together with the requisite quantities of dyestuff" be boiled up before dyeing. Cloudiness, transverse or longitudinal streaks, and insullioient penetration occur — apart from the material not being sufficiently scoured or prepared, the manipulation being defective, or the dye vessels not properly constructed — when the dyestufl's are too rapidly, and consequently unevenly absorbed, and thus conditions prevail which are not conducive to balancing excess or deficiency of the dyestuff. This tendency exhibited by certain dyestuffs, to rush so quickly on to tlie fibre that the darker and lighter parts of the dyed material cannot be equalized by continuous boiling, is duo mainly to the chemical nature and constitution of the dyestuffs. When, e. g. the affinity of, a particular colour acid for the wool fibre is verj' great, it unites at once with those portions ol the wool with which it comes Into contact first, and there becomes so firmly fixed that it is not possible to distribute it evenly. In these cases the following remedies are available: 1. Old dye baths, I. e. dyeliquids which have already been used several times over for dyeing. It is an acknowledged fact and proved by practice, that it is possible to obtain Dyeing in an Acid bath. 119 much more level results in old baths than in fresh ones. The cause, however, has not yet been satisfactorily explained; it is probable that the accumulation of Glauber's Salt in old baths, plays an important part, and promotes level dyeing, but it would appear as though other influences, at present unknown, were at work. 2. Increase of Glauber's Salt. The Glauber's Salt employed when dyeing in an acid bath, performs a very important function: it regulates the equal distribution of the dyestuffs by moderating the action of the sulphuric acid which liberates the colour acid, and induces and accelerates its attraction by the fibre; it also retains a portion of the dyestuflf in the bath and retards its absorption. Moreover, it exercises a solvent action on the particles of the dyestnff which are already fixed, abstracts them again from those parts of the wool which initially took up a surplus of colouring matter; this surplus is thus returned to the bath, and affords those portions which first took up too little colouring matter, an opportunity of gradually getting darker. An increased amount of Glauber's Salt it advantageous for light shades, in new baths, and where the dyestuffs equalize with difficult}-; further, in the case of thick, clo5elj' woven textures and heavilj' milled goods, in order to d\-e them well through; indeed, whenever the results appear irregular, it may be used as an auxiliarj' addition. As a typical instance for the employment of increased quantities of Glauber's Salt, we may quote the method usually applied to the Azo Acid Black L brands: The dyebath is prepared with 100°/o Glauber's Salt (which amount is still further increased for goods which do not dye through easily, and for hard twisted yarns) and 4°/o sulphuric acid or proportionately large quantities of tartar substitute; the goods are entered at 140 — 158" F, the bath heated to the boil and kept boiling for ^/4 — IVa hours. If this bath is used over again, it is sufficient to add 20''/o, and eventually 10% Glauber's Salt, or the corresponding quantities of tartar substitute, whereas the amount of acid remains the same in old and in new baths. :!. Decrease of acid and the employment of weaker acids. The sulphuric acid generally employed liberates the colour acid of the dyestuft", which is contained in the form of a soda or lime salt, and thus permits the attraction of the colouring matter, i. e. the union of the colour acid with the wool. This takes place all the more rapidly, the more completely the colour acid is set at liberty; and, on the other hand, the more slowly the weaker acid the bath contains. For dyestuffs which have a great affinity for the wool fibre and are for this reason apt to yield uneven results, the amount of sulphuric acid should be diminished, and instead of 4"o only 3 or 2"o should be used, or else weaker acids emplo^^ed, such as acetic, formic, oxalic or hydrochloric acid. Dj'estufts best dyed with a decreased amount of acid are, e. g New Coccine, Victoria Scarlet, Victoria Rubine, Claret Red, the bluer brands of Scarlet, Naphtol Red: these colours may be dyed with the addition of 3% sulphuric acid; whilst Soluble Blue, Pure>Blue, Opal Blue, Light Blue, Cotton Blue, give even results only if the amount of sulphuric acid is reduced to 2"„. The dyebath is prepared with the dyestuff solution, 10—20",, Glauber's Salt and 2—3",, sulphuric acid; the goods are entered at a medium temperature, the bath slowly heated to the boil, and boiled for about an hour. Another method frequently adopted, especially for loose material and yarns which are dyed in machines, is to add the acid to the bath graduall\% in small portions, so that the colour acids are slowly liberated and attracted by the wool, by degrees. Or again, many dyestuff"s are worked initially with only a small portion of a weaker acid, such as acetic acid, and afterwards the stronger acid, such as sulphuric acid is added. This method is adopted e. g. for Amide Naphtol Black and Carbon Black, which are dyed in the following manner : 120 General methods of wool dyeing. The bath is prepared with the requisite quantity of dyestuff, 20°,, Glauber's Salt and 3 " „ acetic acid or 1"„ sulphuric acid; the goods aie entered at a medium temperature which is slowjj- raised to the boil and kept boiling for ',1 hour; then 1— 2",o sulphuric acid are added and boiling continued for another '/s — 1 hour. If the bath is not yet exhausted, some more sulphuric acid is added. Still another method employed for manj- dyestuffs is, to cause the acid to be gradually generated in the bath, by using acetate, o.xalate or sulphate of ammonia; these salts gradually decompose during boiling, the ammonia evaporates, and thus the bath becomes very gradually acidified and causes the colouring matter to be slowly taken up by the wool. In order to exhaust the dj'e bath more completely, some acetic or sulphuric acid is added in several portions, during boiling, if necessary. This modified method, which may be regarded as the mildest form of acid dyeing, is eniploj'ed for dyestuffs which do not easily equalize, and are rapidly attracted by the fibre; it is adopted e. g. when dyeing with Fast Blue, Nigrosine and with most of the Dianil Dyestufls: The dyebath is prepared with the requisite quantity of dyestuff, 10-2(i"„ Glauber's Salt and 5— ID",,, acetate of ammonia; the goods are entered at a low temperature, which is raised to the boil within '/s— '/< hour, and boiling contin- ued for another hour; if the bath is not exhausted, 2% acetic acid are added twice, in intervals of 15 minutes, or, at first, 2"o acetic acid and then 1 -2"., sulphuric acid. 4. Entering the goods at a low temperature. The union between the colouring matter and the wool fibre takes place more rapidlj-, the nearer the temperature of the dyebath is to boiling point; if therefore dyestuffs are used which are liable to produce uneven results, the goods are entered at a medium temperature, or even cold, the bath is heated sbwly to the boil; and the dyeing process completed by continuing to boil as long as is necessary. By this gradual raising of the temperature of the bath, the affinity between the fibre and the colour acid conies into action very graduallj-, so that all parts of the material have an equal chance of attracting dyestufls. The larger the quantity of colouring matter used, i. e. the fuller the shade required, the more likely it is that all parts of the material will be dyed evenly. Pale fancy shades are naturallj' more difficult to dye evenly, than medium and dark shades, as the amount of colouring matter presented to the fibre is comparatively small. For dark shades dyestufls which do not equalize well may be used; but for the purpose of matching at the boil, and for fancy shades, it is imperative to emploj- only the most level dyeing colours. Other circumstances and working conditions being equal, the tendency to dye level depends upon the nature of the dyestufl' itself; hence some acid colours may always be spoken of as level dyeing colours. As a guide for judging this property of the various colours, we refer to the first column of the fastness tables in the first part of this volume, and to our preliminary rerharks upon this subject. At the same time, we must again point out that if a dyestufl', e. g. Milling Scarlet 4 R cone, is marked with figure "> as regards equalizing, it by no means signifies that this dyestuff never yields even results. By modifying the method of dj'eing, it is quite possible to obtain level shades; the high figure merely denotes that it is necessary to modify the method of dj'eing and pay special attention to the working. The following colours are dyed in an acid bath: Chinoline Yellow O, extra, cone. Milling Yellow O. Napthol Yellow S, SE, SL. Dianil Pure Yellow HS. Flavazine 3 GL, L, S. Dianil Yellow :i G, R, RR. Flavazine T. Cresotine Yellow G. Dyeing in an Acid bath. V21 Oxydlanil Yellow G, O, Aurophenine O, cone. Fast Yellow O, S. Azo Yellow O, cone. Chrysoine G, R. Victoria Yellow O, double, cone, cone. D. Metanil Yellow extra. Dianil Orange N, G. Naphtol Red O. Orange No. 4, G, No. 2, 2 L, No, I, R, RR. Brilliant Orange G, O, R. Brilliant Croceine yellow shade, blue shade, R, B, BB, 3 B, 5 B, 8 B. New Coccine O. Nassovia Scarlet O. Milling Scarlet 4 RO, 4R cone. Victoria Scarlet :!G, 2 G, G, R, RR, :^ R, 4R, 5R, 6R. Scarlet G, R, RR, 3R, 4R, :>R, GR, B extra. Scarlet 6 R crystals. Fast Red O, S. Roccelline N. Brilliant Crimson O, B. Victoria Rubine O. Amido Black 10 B, 10 BO, 8 B, T. Amaranth O. Claret Red G, B, R, G extra, B extra, R extra, O. Fast Claret Red O. Naphtho Rubine O. Cloth Red O. Dianil Red R, 4 B, 6 B, 10 B. Delta Purpurine .5 B. Brilliant Dianil Red R. Dianil Fast Red PH. Dianil Crimson B, G. Dianil Claret Red G, B. Dianil Violet H. Dianil Brown 3 GO, G, 2 G, MH, BD, R, 3R, B, D. Dianil Fast Brown B, R. Fast Brown O, yellow shade, L. Azo Brown V. Azo Acid Brown RO, R cone. Azo Acid Red B, 5 B. Amido Naphtol Red G, BB, G B. Carbon Black B, B cone, BD, T, 3B, E. Amido Naphtol Black S, G B, G B cone, 4 B, 4 B extra, 4 B cone , 4 BH, BX, B cone, RK, N cone. Fast Dark Blue B extra, B extra cone, R. Black Blue O. Fast Blue O soluble R, 3 R, 3R extra, D, G extra, 5 B, green shade, extra green shade. Nigrosine (Grey blue) No. 1, No. IV. Acid Alizarine Grey G. Acid Rosamine A. Fast Acid Red A. Fast Acid Violet B, R, A 2 R, RO, A2RO, RL, RBE, RGE, BE. Fast Acid Eosine G, G extra. Fast Acid Ploxine A, A extra. Fast Acid Magenta G, G cone. Fast Acid Blue R, R cone. Milling Blue 2 R extra. Azo Acid Carmine B. Azo Acid Magenta G, B. Archil Substitute G. Chromotrope RR, BB, 6 B, 8 B, 10 B. Victoria Violet 4 BS, 8 BS, 4 BSL. Azo Acid Blue B, 3 BO, 3B cone Naphtalene Dark Blue G cone, EG extra. Naphtalene Blue B, B extra, BN cone, BH, D, DN, DN extra, V, R, LR, J, DL. Patent Marine Blue LE, V. Azo Acid Black R, B, G, 3 BL, BL, GL, TL cone, 3 BN, TN, 3 BLOO, 4 BL extra, 3 BL extra, TL extra, KL extra, KRL extra. Alphyl Blue Black O, OK. Victoria Blue B, R, 4R. Pure Blue O, cone, double cone, double cone R. Opal Blue superior soluble in water. China Blue R, No. 1, No. 2. Alizarine Direct Blue B. Alizarine Direct Green G. Red YB, Y, Y2G. Rosazeine B, B extra, G, G extra, O, extra. Acid Magenta O, B, D, G, GG, 3 G, extra, extra B, M, N. Acid Cerise O, II. Acid Maroon O. Maroon S. Orseilline R, B. Acid Violet 3 RA, 4RS, 3 RS, I!, R cone, new, N, 5 BF, 6 BL, G BN. Neutral Violet O. Neutral Blue R, 3 R. Cone Cotton Blue RR, R, No. I, No. 2, No. 2 double. Cotton Blue extra, OO. Cotton Light Blue O soluble in water. Methyl Blue for Cotton MLB. Imperial Blue O. 8al"„ hyposulphite of soda, 3"o sulphuric acid and 5"„ alum. They are left to lie in the bath for some hours, then well washed until all the acid is removed, and dyed in a fresh bath at 17(>— 194" F. with Brilliant Green or Malachite Green. The basic dyestufts, to which the oldest artificial dyestuffs introduced by the colour industry belong, find to-day only a limited use in wool dyeing. Their place has been filled by the more simply dyed acid colours, which, on an average, yield faster results to water, light and rubbing. That they are still employed in odd cases, is due above all, to the great purity of shade, unattained by the acid dyestuffs; also to their good penetration and to their very satisfactory fastness to washing. They are therefore still largely used for knitting and zephyr yarns; in piece dyeing for the production of the ball and pastil shades, and also in certain branches of shoddy dyeing. Dyeing in an Acid Bath and Developing with Metal Salts. 127 V. Dyeing in an Acid Bath and Developing with Metal Salts. The method of dyeing in an acid bath and developing the shades with metal salts afterwards — introduced, as is well known, by the Farbwerke Hoechst — has gained a most extraordinary importance, for the whole wool industry, and especially for fast wool dyeing. Although at first looked upon with suspicion and even with aversion, it has now not only equalled, but already overtaken by far, the older method of first mordanting and then dyeing with mordant dyestuffs, and indeed, has become one of the most indispensable processes of the modern wool dyer. In consequence, this new method has not only proved extremely serviceable to the development of wool dyeing itself, and thereby to the progress of the wool industry generally, but has also stimulated in a high measure the inventive faculty of chemists, by opening out new paths for them. The principle of this method consists in the fact that — contrary to the older method of previous mordanting — the acid colouring matter is taken up by, and firmly united with the wool fibre, in an acid bath, and that is then converted into new and fast combinations on the fibre through a subsequent treatment with metal salts. Since by this method use can be made of such dyestuffs as already possess a distinct affinity for the wool fibre, a much closer, and at the same time, much more even union between dyestuff and fibre is effected than was possible with the older method of mordanting and dyeing, where the union was only brought about by the intermediary action of the metal mordant employed. This much more intimate union between colouring matter and the wool fibre must be regarded as the chief advantage of the new method over the older one. In both, it is true, the final product on the fibre is a metal-colour-lake, i. e., the aluminium-chrome or copper salt of the dyestuff itself, or e. g. the chrome salt of the oxidation products of the Chromotrope FB and F4B, Chromogen 1, Chrome Brown RO etc. But corresponding to the different way in which the lakes are formed, the one produced by first mordanting the material is fixed upon the material, whilst the lake produced by the developing process is fixed within the fibre. The resulting colour lakes are nearly all insoluble in water, even in boiling water; and almost throughout extremely fast to alkalies, milling, washing, steaming, air and light. The fastness properties are unquestionably due to the insolubility of the lakes. The degree of insolubility, however, is inter -dependent on the different character of the dyes, viz: whether they are produced with mordant colours, or obtained by developing in an acid bath. In first mordanting the material, a metal salt is united with the wool fibre in the initial bath, and then the goods dyed with the mordant dyestuffs. At the very moment when the mordanted fibre comes into contact with the dyestuff" — even before the temperature of the dyebath has exceeded blood heat — the formation of the insoluble lakes begins. Wherever the lake has formed on the fibre, it remains firml}' fixed and cannot be moved, viz: equalized in the manner as is possible when dyeing by other methods. It must, therefore, be the foremost aim of the dyer to retard as much as possible the dyeing process, so as to afford to all parts of the material time and opportunity to combine with the same amount of dyestuff". Notwithstanding this necessary retardation of the dyeing process which, naturally, is attended by loss of time and money, it is unavoidable that the outer parts of wool material, e. g. of wool yarn, or even the outer parts of each separate wool fibre, are dyed more strongly and deeply because they come into more frequent contact with, and therefore absorb a greater amount of dyestuff' than the interior parts. The consequence is the well known fact, that wool dyed on a mordant never presents the same appearance of smooth, even "thoroughness" as the dyeings obtained by the other methods. The eff'ects of dyeing in an acid bath and subsequent developing the acid dyed shades with metal salts are quite diff'erent. Here the dyestuff's are first worked according to the rules of dyeing in an acid bath; viz: in the first place only their nature as acid dyestuff" is to be reckoned with, which produces very even results, faultlessly dyed through. At this first stage of the dyeing process no insoluble substances are present, as is the case when 123 General methods of wool dyeing. using mordant colours, and in boiling an adjustment between parts that are more strongly dyed and those that are rather lighter at first takes place, until a state of equilibrium and perfect evenness is reached. This adjustment is assisted, in accordance with the nature of the dyestufTs employed, by the use of larger quantities of Glauber's Salt and a reduction of quantity and strength of the acid for dyestufls which do not equalize easily. In especially difficult cases, it is advisable to further ensure equalization by entering the mateiial at a lower temperature. In order, therefore, to produce even results with developing dyestuffs, the same rules apply as for dyeing in an ordinary acid bath (sec page llT). The new metliod only conies sinto play after thus bringing about an intimate and perfectly even union between dyestuft'and wool fibre, and the insoluble fast colour lake is formed on the fibre by the reaction of the metal salt used. Thereby, however, a much greater evenness and far better penetration are produced, and although it is possible to work much more quickly and economically than by employing the mordanting process, the efiects are more even throughout, and the fast lakes belter united with the fibre. Considering these facts, the advantages of the method ot dyeing in an acid bath and developing with metal salts, when compared with that of applying mordant colours, are — apart from the goods being better dyed through — greater fastness to rubbing, and a consi- derable saving of time. This means, as a matter of course, diminished consumption of steam, saving of wages and of plant, and increased output. Still more essential is the fact that the new method, by which the dyeing operation may be carried out in an acid bath and the dyeing process completed in a shorttr time, aftects the quality of the dyed material (loose wool, stubbing yarn & piece goods) much less injuri- ously than the older method of dyeing on a mordant, where the long sustained boiling in neutral or nearly neutral mordant and dye baths, is bound to impair the quality of the dyed material considerably. It is due to these great advantages that the process of dyeing in an acid bath and subsequently developing the shades with metal salts (principally with chrome salts) has, in a relatively short time, been so widely adopted and gained such high importance in wool dyeing. This application would indeed have developed still more rapidly, had the after-chroming process not failed in some cases. The success of the process depends upon a condition to which not always sufficient attention is paid in practice. Namely, the employment of the acid bath necessitates that only material is used, which has been thoroughly washed and is entirely free from grease. If the material contains any fat or soap, either througli insufficient cleansing of the wool, or through faulty manipulations in washing, milling or preparatory finishing, the intimate union between fibre and dyestufl", for which this method is otherwise distinguished, is not fully achieved, and on such material the old process of dyeing upon a mordant — the chrome mordant especially acts as a cleanser — yields actually better results than the new method of after-chroming. The developing operation can be carried out with various metal salts; in the case of some dyestutfs, the process which takes place is simple lake formation; with most others, however, especially with Chroniogen I, Chroniotrope FB, F4B, DVV, S, SB, SR, Chromotrope Blue, Chrome Brown, Acid Alizarine Blue BB and GR (which latter yield not blue, but a grey with bichrome) an oxidation of the dyesturt" and a simultaneous lake formation takes place when bichromate of potash or bichromate of soda is used. It is a characteristic feature that the above named Chromotropes, Chrome Brown and Chromogen I, are incapable of being developed with fluoride of chrome, viz: a chrome oxide salt which has no oxidizing property, whereas the Chromotropes 2R, "iB, 6B, 8B, 10 B, Ali- zarine Yellow, Mordant Yellow O, Alizarine Red IWS, Alizarine Orange, Ceruleine B, BWR, Fast Mordant Blue, as well as all Acid Alizarine Dyestufts can be developed both with bichromate of potash and with fluoride of chrome. The most important developers are bichromate of potash or bichromate of soda, which have exactly the same effect upon the colours; besides these, fluoride of chrome, also alum and copper sulphate are used for developing; some dyestufls, such as Chrome Black B & T, Dyeing in an Acid Bath and Developing with Metal Salts. 129 are treated both with bichromate of potash and with copper sulphate, in which case the latter serves most especially to enhance the fastness to light. In dyeing with developing dyestufts, the same rules and preparations as for dyeing in an acid bath, are to be followed. The nature of the dyestuff used, determines the method of dyeing to be adopted in order to ensure even absorption and perfect penetration. Tiie equalizing capacity of the developing dyestufts used, is gauged by the figures of onr fastness tables in part I, and the same considerations as are taken when dyeing in an acid bath, appertain here for the proper method, requisite additions, and preparation of the dyebath. (See page 117.) If developing dj'estufts are used in old baths for dyeing simultaneously, it is advisable to keep two separate baths — one for dyeing and the other for developing — and to refresh each one by corresponding additions of dyestuff and acid on the one hand, and of metal salt on the other. If, however, baths are used over again in which both the dyeing and developing operations have taken place, the goods are entered without any addition of dyestuff and acid, and boiled with advantage for about '/.> hour whilst adding 1 — 2% lactic acid, in order to reduce any bichromate of potash remaining in the bath, and to precipitate the chrome oxide upon the fibre. The bath is then cooled down to 140" F, dyestuff" and acid are added, and the dyeing operation proceeded with in the usual manner. As a rule, no special advantages are derived from dyeing in an old bath with chrome developing colours, except a saving of steam; for the colours exhaust well, and no appreciable saving of dyestuff" is effected by using these old baths. The very pronounced tendency of many developing dyestuffs, especially of the blues and blacks, to form fast lakes with metal salts, makes itself sometimes very undesirably felt in their use. When working in bright metal vessels, or also in wooden cisterns which are heated with metal coils, it frequently occurs that portions of metal are dissolved, according to tlie kind of metal and of the acid employed. These, together with the dyestuff', form copper iron or lead lakes which, in many cases, are so stable that the proper developing medium which is added afterwards, is no longer able to combine with the dyestuff". The consequence is, that dyes are produced, which in point of shade and fastness, turn out entirely different from what has been expected. It is therefore very necessary when using developing dyestuffs, to take into consideration the dyeing apparatus, and to consider also the behaviour of the dyestufts towards the respective metals. Iron and leaden vessels and apparatus are frequently quite useless, whilst in some cases their presence has the eff"ect of rendering the shade fuller and purer, as, e. g. those of iron with Acid Alizarine Black R, T & RH. In almost all cases copper apparatus are well adapted; their possibly harmful influence can be counteracted in the simplest manner by not polishing them, but by leaving undisturbed, as a protection against the action of the acid, the layer of insoluble copper oxide which is gradually precipitated on the walls of these vessels. As a safe remedy in all cases, an addition of 3 — 6 ozs. ammonium sulpho cyanide per 200 gall, liquid, according to the material of the apparatus, is to be recommended. The developing dyestuff"s can be used without hesitation in combination with all acid dyestuff"s which are not sensitive to the respective inetal salts. In wool dyeing, much use is made of this property bj' primarily adding to the chrome developing colours as auxiliaries, several correspondingly fast acid dyestuffs, such as Milling Yellow O, Milling Scarlet 4R cone, Oxydianil Yellow, Dianil Yellow, Cresotine Yellow, Scarlet B extra, Alizarine Direct Blue B, Alizarine Direct Green G, or the well equalizing acid dj'estuiTs, such as Patent Blue A, Milling Blue 2R extra, the Fast Acid Violets, Acid Violet 5BF, Flavazine T etc. After developing with metal salts, the first named dyestuff"s and the developing colours themselves are generally not suitable as additions for shading purposes, because they equalize too badly; for these purposes such easily equalizing acid dyestuft's are used with advantage, as are not destroyed nor converted into lakes by metal salts. Experience shows that the fastness of the result is not impaired to any perceptible degree by relatively small quantities of these equalizing dyestuffs. 9Ie 130 Gcneial methods of wool dyeing. The following paragraphs contain a summary of the eflfect which the various metal sjlts produce on certain developing colours, and of thoie equalizing dyestuffs suitable for shading them. 1. Developing with Bichromate of Potash. The method of developing with bichromate of potash (bichrome) or bichromate of soda, is by far the most important; it is applicable to the greatest number of dyestuffs and yields the fastest colours even in cases where other modes of developing are well adapted. The following method is the usual one for developing with bichromate of potash: According to the equalizing property of the dyestuffs, the dyebath is prepared with 10— 20"/o Glauber's Salt and 3—5% sulphuric acid. For badly equalizing dyestufls, or for goods which are not easily dyed evenly, weaker acids are used. The goods are entered at 122° F; the temperature is raised to the boil, boiling continued for 1 hour, and if necessary gradually more acid added. When the bath is sufficienily exhausted, it is slightly cooled down, 1 — 3";o bichromate of potash (according to the depth of shade required) are added, the temperature again raised to the boil, and the shade developed by further boiling for \t hour. Clironiotrope FB, F4B, S, SR, Chromotrope Blue A, WB and \VG, Chrome Brown RC), BO, arc developed witli bichromate of potash, 1— 2",o sulphuric acid and 1— 3"u lactic acid, in order to obtain greater fastness to milling. Dyestuffs suitable for developi: Alizarine Yellow 5 0, GGW powder, GGW paste, R\V powder, RVV paste. Mordant Yellow O, cone, N Acid Alizarine Yellow RC. Dianil Fast Red PH. Alizarine Red IWS, 3WS, PS. Acid Alizarine Red G, B. Acid Alizarine Grenade R. Acid Alizarine Violet N. Acid Alizarine Brown R, B, BB, T, Rll extra, RP. Chromogen I. Fast A\ordant Blue R, B, BT, RT, HBR. Acid .Alizarine Green G. Ccruleine B paste, BWR powder. g with bichromate of potash. Acid Alizarine Dark Blue SX. Acid Alizarine Blue BB, GR (these turn grey), WE, WEB cone. Acid Alizarine Grey G. Acid Alizarine Blue Black B, RB, 3B. Acid Alizarine Black 3B extra, 3B, R, R extra, RG, RH, AC, T, TG, SE paste, SE powder, SET paste, SET powder, SN, SNT. Chrome Brown RO, BO. Chromotrope FB, F4B, DW, 8B, 10 B, S, SB, SR. Chromotrope Blue A, WB, WG. Chrome Black 2G, B, T (to be developed with bichrome and copper sulphate). S h a d i n g - o f f d y e s t u f f s w h i c h Chinoline Yellow O, extra, cone. Flavazine 3GL, L, S. Flavazine T. Orange No. 4, G, No. 2. Brilliant Orange G, O. Azo Acid Red B, 5 B. Amido Naphtol Red G, BB, 6B. Fast Acid Red A. Fast Acid Violet B, R, A2R, RGE.RBK, BE, RL. Fast Acid Eosine G, G extra. Fast Acid Phloxine A, A extra. Fast Acid Magenta G, G cone. *■ Fast Yellow O, S. may be added to the bichrome bath. Azo Yellow O, cone. Victoria Yellow O, double, cone, cone. D. Rosazeine O, extra, B, B extra, G, G extra. Milling Blue 2R extra. Black Blue O. Acid Violet N, 5BF, 3RA, (jBL, CBN. Patent Blue A, AF, AJI, V, N, L, LE, C, B, J I, J2, J3, EN, VN, Y, RB, RB\. Cyanine B. Alizarine Direct Blue E3B, EB. Naphtalene Green \', cone. Fast Acid Green BB, BB extra. Patent Green V, VS, VVS. Dyeing in an Acid Balh and Developing with Metal Salts. 131 Of the above, the following are especially suitable in small quantities for shading off colours intended for milling: Flavazine T. Fast Acid Magenta G, G cone. Fast Acid Violet B, R, A2R, RBE, ROE, RL. Acid Violet 5BF. Patent Blue A, AF, AJl. Milling Blue 2R extra. 2. Developing with Fluoride of Chrome. Shades developed with fluoride of chrome are almost always inferior, as regards fastness to washing and milling, to those developed with bichrome, if the latter method of developing is possible. For that reason, fluoride of chrome is employed inuch more rarely for developing than bichrome. An exception are: Acid Alizarine Blue BB and OR, and Acid Alizarine Dark Blue, which are almost exclusively developed with fluoride of chrome, and by this means yield more valuable colors than when developed with bichrome. The following is the usual method for developing with fluoride of chrome: The dyebath is prepared with 10-20''/o Glauber's Salt and 3— 5 "/o sulphuric acid or else, according to the equalizing property of the dyestuffs used, with other additions or weaker acids, together with the necessary dyestuff. The goods are entered at 122" F; the tempe- rature raised to the boil, and boiling continued for 1 hour. For dyestuffs which do not equalize easily, the acid required is added later. When the bath is neatly exhausted, it is slightly cooled down, 1 — 4°'o fluoride of chrome, according to the depth of shade, are added, the temperature again raised to the boil and the shade developed by further boiling for 1 hour. Dyestuffs suitable for develop! Alizarine Yellow 5G, GGW powder, GGW paste, RW powder, R\V paste. Mordant Yellow O. Acid Alizarine Yellow RC. Alizarine Orange N, R, P. Dianil Fast Red PH. Alizarine Red IWS, 3WS, PS. Acid Alizarine Red B & G. Acid Alizarine Grenade R. Acid Alizarine Violet N. Acid Alizarine Brown B, BB, R, T, RH extra, RP. ng with fluoride of chrome. Acid Alizarine Blue GR, BB, V^E. Acid Alizarine Dark Blue SN. Acid Alizarine Green G. Ceruleine B paste, BW paste, BWR. Fast Mordant Blue R, B, RT, BT. BBR. Acid Alizarine Grey G. Acid Alizarine Blue Black 3 B. Chromotrope 2R, 2B, GB, SB, 10 B. Acid Alizarine Black 3B e.Ktra, 3B, R, R extra, RG, RH, AC, T, TG, SE paste, SE powder, SET paste, SET powder, SN, SNT. Sh a ding-off dyestu ffs, which ma prepared with f Chinoline Yellow O, extra, cone. Flavazine L, S, T. Fast Yellow O, S. Azo Yellow O, cone. Victoria Yellow O, double, cone. Chrysoine G, R. Orange G, No. 2, No. 4. Brilliant Orange G, O, R. Azo Acid Red B, 5B. Amido Naphtol Red G, BB, 6B. Azo Acid Carmine B. Fast Acid Red A. Fast Acid Green BB, BB extra. Fast Acid Violet B, R, A2R, RL, RGE, RBE. y be added to the developing bath luoride of chrome. Fast Acid Eosine G, G extra. Fast Acid Phloxine A, A extra. Fast Acid Magenta G, G cone. Rosazeine O, extra, B, B extra, G, G extra. Milling Blue 2R extra. Black Blue O. Acid Violet 6 BN, r, BF, N, 6BL, 3RA. Patent Blue A, AJl, AF, V, N, L, LE, C, B, Jl, J 2, J 3, EN, VN, Y, RB, RBN. Cyanine B. Alizarine Direct Blue E3B, EB. Naphtalene Green V, cone. Patent Green V, VS, VVS. 1 .■!2 General melbods of wool dyeing. 3. Developing with Alum. Developing with alum is still less frequently resorted to than developing with fluoride of chrome. Its chief use is for the production of madder shades which are fast to light and milling, by means of Alizarine Red; these are shaded of with Alizarine Orange and Alizarine Yellow. Sometimes Chromotropes are developed with alum in order to produce shades fast to water. The method of dj'eing is as follows: The dyebath is prepared with 3 — 4% sulphuric acid, 10 ",o Glauber's Salt and the requisite quantity of dyestufl". The goods are entered at 122" F, the bath is lieated to the boil, and boiling continued for 1 hour. Then 5— 10",o alum (free from iron) are added, according to the depth of shade required, and the shade is developed bj' boiling for another hour. Dyestuffs suitable for developing with alum. Alizarine Yellow GGW powder, GGW Alizarine Red I WS, 3WS, PS. paste, .■)G. Chromotrope RR, HB, 6B, 8B, 1015. Alizarine Orange N, R, P. Shading off dyestuffs which may be added to the developing bath prepared with a 1 u m. Chinoline Yellow O, extra, cone. Fast Acid Phloxine A, A extra. Flavazine S, L, T. Fast Acid Magenta G, G cone. Azo Yellow O, cone. Rosazeine O, e.xtra, B, B extra, G, G extra. Victoria Yellow O, double, cone. Milling Blue 2R extra. Orange No. 2, No. 4, G. Black Blue O. Brilliant Orange G, O, R. Acid Violet 6BN, 5 BF, N, 6 BL, a RA. Scarlet R, 2R, 3R, B extra. Patent Blue A, AJl, AF, V, N, L, LK, C, Azo Acid Red B, .5B. B, jl, .12, jM, KN, VN, Y, RB, RBN. Amide Naphtol Red G, BB, 6B. Cyaiiine H. Azo Acid Carmine B. Alizarine Direct Blue E3B, EB. Fast Acid Red A. Naphtalene Green V, cone. Fast Acid Violet H, R, A2R, 15E, RGE, Fast Acid Green BB, BB extra. RBE, RE. Patent Green V, VS, VVS. Fast Acid Eosine G, G extra. 4. Developing with Copper Sulphate. Several developing dyestufts form pronounced copper lakes with copper sulphate, which are superior to the ordinary acid dyed shades of these dyestulVs, in regard to fastness to alkalies, water and washing, but above all, to light. These copper lakes, however, do not withstand stronger alkaline treatments, such as heavy milling. They arc, therefore, chielly used in piece dyeing. The dyebath is prepared with 30''/o Glauber's Salt and 2— 4% sulphuric acid, or with 20";,, Glauber's Salt and 10% tartar substitute, besides the necessary amount of dyestuiV. The goods are entered at 86—104° F. the temperature is slowly raised to the boil, and boiling continued for 1 hour. Then the required amount of copper sulphate — 1 -3",o — is added, and the shade developed by further boiling lor '/-• hour. In many cases the copper sulphate may be added at first to the dyebath. D y e s t u f f s suitable f o r developing with copper sulphate. Copper Red N. Chrome Black 2G, B, T (to be developed Copper Blue B, B extra. with bichromc and copper). Copper Black S, SB. Developing with copper sulphate. 133 Shading-off dyestuffs, which may be added to the developing bath containing copper sulphate. Ch incline Yellow O, extia, cone. Fast Acid Phloxine A, A extra. Flavazeine S, L, T. Fast Acid Magenta G, G cone. Azo Yellow O, cone. Milling Blue 2R extra. Victoria Yellow O, cone, double. Acid Violet 6 BN, 5BF, N, 6BL, 3RA. Orange G, No. 2, No. 4. Patent Blue A, AJl, AF, V, N, L, LE, C, Brilliant Orange G, O, R. B, Jl, J2, J3, EN, VN, Y, RB, RBN. Azo Acid Red B, 5B. Cyanine B. Amido Naphtol Red G, BB, 6B. Alizarine Direct Blue E3B, EB. Fast Acid Red B. Naphtalene Green V, cone. Fast Acid Violet B, R, A2R, BE, RGE, Fast Acid Green BB, BB extra. RBE, RL. Patent Green V, V.S. Fast Acid Eosine G, G extra. Patent Blue VVS. 1^4 General iiiclhiKl> of wool dyeing. VI. Dyeing upon previously mordanted material. In tlie foregoing chapters we liave discussed the methods of dyeing wool with dyestufls which have a direct affinity for the wool fibre, and are capable of forming dyed compounds with it, whereby the substances added in dyeing serve merely for regulating and assisting the dyeing process. Contrary to these products, which belong in a wider sense to the group of substantive dyestufls, is the behaviour of the mordant colours, representing a group which may be termed the adjective dyestuffs. By themselves they are incapable of entering into dyeing combinations of a serviceable nature with the wool fibre, but require an intermediary link between thems- elves and the wool fibre, viz.: the mordant. For that purpose it is necessary to precipitate before dyeing, upon and within the wool fibre, a basic metal salt in as fine and even a distribution and as insoluble a form as possible, and one which is capable of uniting with the dyestuff, which reacts as a weak acid, to form a dyed salt-like compound, the colour lake, thereby imparting to the fibre a tinctorial eftect. Dyeing with mordant dyestufls, therefore, consists of two separate operations, mordan- ting and dyeing, which, as compared to dyeing in the acid bath and to dyeing with deve- loping dyestuffs — both one -bath operations — carry witii them an extra expenditure in power and steam, time and v^'ages, and increase the strain upon the wool fibre which, as is well known, is rather sensitive. In consequence, dyeing on previously mordanted wool has un- deniably lost much of its importance, owing to the ever growing employment of the method of after-development, especially of the chrome developing dyestufls. This was only to be expected, considering the advantages of the latter, fully detailed at the beginning of the previous chapter. For all that, it is a method still much applied to fast wool dyeing and in many cases indispensable. Apart from the fact that the conservatism of many dyers and consumers causes dyeing with mordant dyestuffs still to be carried on to a large extent, this process is often resorted to, (in spite of the great progress made by the coal tar colour industry with regard to the developing dyestufls) because in several instances, the results obtained with the latter do not show the reaction demanded by liie trade and peculiar to the mordant dyestufls. E. g., no chrome developing dyestuft' will produce the yellow nitric acid spot still customary in com- merce as a test of the fastness of a blue; which spot, however, is obtained upon Alizarine Blue and Indigo. On the other hand, the mordant dyestufls, as already mentioned at the beginning of the previous chapter, possess this advantage over the developing dyestufls that they can often be dj'ed satisfactorily on greasy wools and materials, w-hereas developing dyestuffs would fail under the same circumstances. The mordant dyestuffs form with a large number of metal oxides characteristically dyed compounds: the colour lakes. For the purposes of wool dyeing, however, only two of them are to be considered, viz.: alumina and chrome oxide, which serve for the production of the alum and the chrome mordant respectively. Whilst the alum mordant is almost entirely used for red shades, and its use is therefore restricted, the chrome mordant is very largely employed for dj'eing with all mordant dyestufls. 1. Alum Mordant. Mordanting wool with alum is carried out as follows: The bath is prepared for dark shades with 10",,i alum, 3"„ tartar, and 2",,, oxalic acid; for light shades with .")",'„ alum, l,5°;o tartar, and 1 ",„ oxalic acid, the goods arc then entered, boiled for I'/s hours and well rinsed. The volume of the baih should not be more than 50 nor less than :it) times the weight of the material. In yarn dyeing, for the manipulation of which more diluted baths arc required, the proportions must be correspondingly increased. With too much liquor the alum mordant Dyeing upon previously mordanted material. 135 is insufficiently fixed, a disintegration of the alum and a precipitation of alumina oxide takes place to some extent within the liquid, and this then becomes only superficially fixed upon the fibre, so that the results ultimately obtained are poor and bare, and rub badly. if, on the other hand, the bath is too concentrated, there is fixed on the wool along with the alumina, too much acid, with the result that the formation of the colour lake is hindered during the dyeing process, and the dyes obtained are less fast, and usually of an orange hue. As the Alizarine lakes are very sensitive to iron, a small quantity of which dulls the shade considerably, it is important to ascertain that neither the water nor the alum employed contain any iron. For dyeing upon alum mordant, the dyebath is prepared with the requisite quantity of dyestiiff, 2"/o tannin and 2'/2— V'/o"/.) acetate of lime, according to the depth of shade. The dyestuff is previously mixed with pure water, and added to the bath through a sieve. The goods are entered at the usual temperature and well worked, whilst the bath is heated to the boil within an hour; boiling is continued for 1'/^ hours, when the goods are wtU rinsed and dried. Care must be taken both in starting the operation and during the dyeing, that no iron be present. On the other hand, the presence of lime is necessary for the production of a bright and fast red, and, as can be seen from the above directions, is it best added in the dyebath in the form of acetate of lime. Seeing that the alum- mordanted wool, as a rule, still contains some acid, it is not required to correct water containing lime with acetic acid, but rather to avoid excess of acid in the dyebath, because it prevents a complete lake formation. Only when using Alizarine Red 1 \VS and PS, Ceruleine and Alizarine Yellow GGW, is it advisable to add some acetic acid to the dyebath, if the water is hard. The addition of tannin to the bath, which was first recommended by the Farbwerke, Hoechst, effects a great increase of the fastness to milling, and especially to bleeding. In dyeing upon an alum mordant, it is to be noted that the colour lake once formed on the wool fibre is most difficult to remove again in the dyebath, that, therefore, contrary to the dyeing in an acid bath, continued boiling does not help to equalize unevennesses. For that reason it is necessary to take care in dyeing upon mordanted wool, that a level shade is obtained from the beginning. That the goods are well worked during the dyeing operation, and the dyebath is heated slowly, are primary conditions for obtaining good and even results upon mordanted material. For the same reasons, mordant dyestufts cannot be used for shading at the boil. If it is necessary to add some mordant dyestuft, the bath must be allowed to cool down first, and the temperature is then again slowly raised, after the addition is made. The last additions for the purpose of matching, are most conveniently made with acid dyestufts of good fastness and known equalizing property. These small additions of acid dyestufts, do not impair the fastness of the result upon mordanted wool. The following dyestufts are suitable for dyeing upon alum-mordanted material: AlizarineYellow5G,GGWpaste,GGWpowder. Alizarine Red all paste brands, IWS, 3WS, Mordant Yellow O. PS. Alizarine Orange paste, powder, N paste, R Alizarine Claret R paste. paste, P paste. Ceruleine paste A, paste SVV cone, S, S Alizarine Brown paste, powder, R paste, R cone. powder,S powder, RD powder, N paste, Anthrol Blue NR, NG. F paste, H paste, WR paste. The following dyestufts may be used for shading upon alum-mordanted material, without cooling the bath: Flavazine S, L, T. Brilliant Orange G, O, R. Azo Yellow O, cone. Amido Naphtol Red G, BE, 6 3. Victoria Yellow O, cone, double. Rosazeine O, B, G, extra, B extra, G c.tra. Orange G, No. 2, No. 4. Fasf Acid Violet B, R, A2R, BE, RGF, RBE. 136 General mclliods of wool dyeing. Fast Acid Eosine G, G extra. Milling Blue 2R extra. Fast Acid Phloxine A, A extra. Patent Blue A, AJI, AF. Fast Acid Magenta G, G cone. Naphtalene Green V, cone. Acid Violet N, 5BF, 6BN, GDI-, 3RA. 2. Chrome Mordant. For mordanting wool with chrome, bichromate of potash is used, which, under the reducing action of the wool substance, is fixed on the wool fibre bj' boiling. The chrome oxide, however, is more completely fixed on wool if reducing substances are present. Instead of bichromate of potash, a like result is obtained witli bichromate of soda. The method mostly adopted for the production of chrome mordant is as follows: The mordanting balh is prepared with o"',. bichromate of potash and 2''2'',o tartar, and corrected with 2— 10"o acetic acid, if the water is hard. The goods are entered at 15s°F., the bath heated to the boil, and boiling continued for about l'/-- hours. For dark shades, 4",. bichromate of potash and 3"„ tartar; for light shades, 1",„ bichro- mate of potash and 1 ",„ tartar are used. Loose wool is often left lying overnight after mordanting, before washing and dyeing. Piece goods and yarns, however, should be well hydroextracted after mordanting, and they must not be left lying wet overnight, as this tends to produce uneven results. Wool properl}' mordanted with bichromate of potash and tartar, should have a pale greenish, not a yellowish or brownish colour. In the interval between mordanting and dyeing, the goods should be kept in a moist condition and protected from the direct action of sun- light: any bichrome which is left in the fibre as such, is reduced in dried and exposed parts, whereby the mordant in these places is strengthened, and the goods take up more colouring matter in consequence. Instead of tartar, other auxiliary mordants may be employed in chrome mordanting, which, however, though cheaper than tartar, mostlj' show one or more drawbacks in com- parison with it. The bichrome and sulphuric acid mordant is much employed: It is customary to mordant with 3% bichromate of potash and 1 "o sulphuric acid for medium shades, or with 4"/„ bichromate of potash and 1.5",o sulphuric acid for dark shades, and otherwise to proceed in the same manner as with the bichrome and tartar bath. It is not desirable to employ the bichrome and sulphuric acid mordant for pale shades. In tlie case of hard water, the quantity of sulphuric acid must be increased by 0.5— 1.5"/,>, according to the hardness of the water. Owing to the fact that when mordanting with bichrome and sulphuric acid, the chromic acid liberated by the sulphuric acid, is reduced and fixed on the wool fibre alone, it will be easily understood that in this case larger amounts of chromic acid are left unreduced on the fibre, than in mordanting with bichrome and tartar. Consequently, the bichrome and sulphuric acid mordant is not so well adapted for dyestuffs which are sensitive to the action of chromic acid, and therefore produce duller colours; e. g. Alizarine Blue, Galleine and Ceruleine; on the other hand, and for the same reason, the bichrome and sulphuric acid mordant yields good results with some other dycstufi's, e. g. Alizarine Red, Alizarine Orange, Alizarine Yellow GGW and R\V, Mordant Yellow, and Fast Mordant iiluc. By means of this mordant, the above mentioned dyestufl's are fixed more completely, and are therefore faster to bleeding than on a bichrome and tartar mordant, whicli contains little or no chromic acid. In recent years lactic acid has been widelj' employed as an auxiliary mordant in place of tartar; it is used as free acid in the form of a •'iO";'o solution, or as an acid potassium salt, commercially called lactoline. Lactic acid has a stronger reaction than tartar, for which reason less reducing agents are required, and also, owing to its better utilization and eflicacy less bichromate of potash is needed for obtaining the same results as with tartar. Dyeing on a Mordant. 137 The bath is therefore prepared with 2% bichromate of potash, 3% lactic acid of 50°/o and l^ sulphuric acid. Water containing lime is corrected in the same manner as in the case of bichrome and tartar mordant. The wool is entered at 1.58° F., worked for '/a hour at this temperature, which is then raised to the boil within '/i hour, and boihng continued for 1 hour. It is essential not to enter the material at a higher temperature than 1.58° F., nor to raise the bath to the boil within less than '/a hour, because the reducing action of lactic acid would cause a too rapid and, consequently, too irregular and superficial mordanting, and free chrome hydroxide would be precipitated in the bath. If the above named conditions are observed, the bichrome and lactic acid mordant works very economicallj'. The bichromate of potash employed is almost entirely fi.xed upon the fibre and reduced, so that there remain neither any considerable quantities of chromium salts in the liquid, nor any unreduced chromic acid on the fibre. It is on that account that this mordant gives rather better results than the bichrome and tartar mordant, especially with dyestuffs which are sensitive to chromic acid, such as Aliza- rine Blue, Ceruleine and Galleine, also on Indigo bottom which is destroj'ed by free chromic acid. In all cases the colours turn out fuller and faster to milling with lactic acid than with tartar. The lactic acid bath is to be specially recommended for dyeing loose wool and slubbing, also yarns for medium and dark shades. For light shades on yarn, the use of lactic acid is less advisable, and also in piece dj'eing it is preferable to use tartar instead of lactic acid, particularly in the case of closer woven, strongly milled and thicker textures. That lactic acid works less favourably in the aforementioned cases is explained b}' its more rapid and energetic reducing action which, however, only makes itself felt at a higher temperature. If. e. g., piece goods are worked with lactic acid with the same measure of pre- caution as with tartar, the mordant does not sufficiently penetrate into the inner parts of the goods, owing to the lower initial temperature and the less active circulation of the mordant bath. The result is, that these inner parts are less stronglj- mordanted, and will afterwards d3'e ligliter than the outer parts, so that the goods are insufficiently dyed through. If, however, the necessary precautions are disregarded; the goods being entered at a higher temperature, and the same raised too quickly to the boil, then a too rapid and super- ficial reduction of the bichromate of potash and precipitation of the chrome mordant takes place, with the result that, besides imperfect mordanting, streaky and cloudy places are produ- ced, which in dyeing become disagreeably apparent. The employment of lactoline greatly obviates the disadvantages of lactic acid. Lactoline has, therefore, been particularly favoured in piece dyeing, though in its effect it scarcely comes up to the tartar, which acts still milder. On the other hand, and in addition to the described drawbacks of lactic acid, which naturally must tend to restrict its use, one of its advantages may be mentioned. The employ- ment of lactic acid which produces an almost complete utilization of the bichromate of potash, has the effect that at the end of the mordanting process, no chromium salts remain in the bath. Consequently the mordant bath can be used for dyeing, i. e. it is possible to dye in a single bath. It is advisable to reduce the quantity of chromium a little, viz: to operate with 1.5 »'u bichromate of potash, 3"'o lactic acid and l"o sulphuric acid. The operation is carried out as usual; when the mordanting is finished, the bath should be compietelj' exhausted and have the appearance of clear water. It can then be used for dyeing, after being allowed to cool sufficiently. After dyeing, the bath may be again used for mordanting, and it is obvious therefore that this one bath method brings about a considerable saving of steam. Quite recentljr, formic acid has been successfully tried in place of tartar. This is put upon the market in solutions of varying concentrations — generally one of 85 "'o — and is very cheap. The mordanting bath is prepared with 2% bichromate of potash and 2";'o formic acid 85";,i, and worked in the same manner as the bichrome and tartar bath. yale 138 General methods of wool dyeing. Formic acid has a great reducing power, which, though not quite equalling that of lactic acid, is, on account of its low price, probably as advantageous as the latter. The colours pro- duced with formic acid do not turn out quite as clear as those produced with lactic acid, but they are superior to those obtained upon tartar mordant. The penetration and evenness of the chrome mordant produced by means of formic acid, is the same as that of the lactic acid mordant; it is therefore advisable to restrict the employment of formic acid in the same measure as that of lactic acid. In addition to the afore described most important mordanting methods, a whole series of other methods have been recommended, and are partlj' in use. Of these, we give the following instances: The bichrome and oxalic acid mordant, for which are used: 1 — 4% bichromate of potash and 1— 3°/o oxalic acid; the fluoride of chrome and oxalic acid mordant for which 2 — 4 °'o fluoride of chrome and 2 — 4 °o oxalic acid are recommended, and the chromic acid mordant, for which the wool is first treated cold with 1% chromic acid with the addition of 2— 3°;o sulphuric acid. The former is then reduced bj' adding 10 °o sodium bisulphite, and the goods are after-treated in a new warm bath with 5 "„ calc. soda. These, and other methods, however, are but seldom employed. It would carry us too far to describe them in greater detail. It is equally superfluous to dwell here on the many commercial substitutes of tartar, which consist essentially of impure lactic acid or other organic acids with a reducing action, and which are generally employed for mordanting in the same manner as described above. Whether there is any advantage in their einployment in anj- particular case, must always depend upon special trials and calculations, in view of their difl'erent composition. As in dyeing upon alum mordant, so also in dj'eing upon chrome mordanted wool, it is to be considered that the union of the dyestuflf with the mordant fixed upon the fibre is a verj' rapid and intimate one in a hot dyebath, whereas the affinity between mordant and dyestuff is much less pronounced at a lower temperature. In order to obtain even shades, and, in the case of yarns and pieces, also thorough penetration, it is necessary to begin the dyeing operation at a low temperature, raise it slowly- to the boil, and manipulate the material well during dyeing. Whilst almost all dyestuffs when used upon an alum mordant necessitate the employment of lime for the production of bright lakes, lime salts act unfavourabl}- upon the weaker acid chrome mordant, because in the latter case, the dyestufis are precipitated in the dyebath as lime or magnesium lakes, and therefore unite only imperfectly with the chrome mordant fixed on the fibre. In order to avoid this defect and to fix the dyestufis satisfactorily, the dyebath is correc- ted, according to the hardness of the water, with acetic acid; this has the effect that all the lime and magnesia compounds are present in the form of their easily soluble acetic acid salts, which can no longer react injuriouslj' upon the dyeing process. This addition, which is necess- ary for all mordant dyestufis, amounts, e. g. for water of 5 % hardness to 0.2, of 10 " „ hard- ness to 0,4 parts acetic acid 12" Tw. per 1000 parts dye liquor. In addition to the above, the majority of the mordant dyestuffs require a still further addition of acetic acid. Exempt therefrom are the paste brands of Alizarine Red, Alizarine Orange, Alizarine Brown and Galleine; in their case an excess of acetic acid does not allow the colours to be perfectly exhausted, and fixes them incompletely; they require therefore as neutral a bath as possible. Some of the dyestuffs are used as sodium salts (most of the powder brands of the mordant dyestufis) and their colour acid has to be liberated with acid; other dyestuffs, such as Alizarine Blue, Ceruleine, Alizarine Green S, Alizarine Yellow GGW etc. require a larger quantity of acid on account of their chemical composition, for their better exhaustion and fixation. The method of dyeing with mordant dyestufis to be adopted under normal conditions is the following: Dyeing on a Mordant. 139 The dyebath is first charged with the quantity of acetic acid (2—10%) necessary for correcting the water and for the dyestuffs used; then the colour solution is added through a sieve, and the goods entered at 86" F. They are worked at that temperature for '/i hour, the bath is heated to the boil within an hour, and Isept boiling for I'/z— 2hours. As was the case in dyeing upon an alum mordant, so in using a chrome mordant also, it must not be forgotten that the lake, once formed upon the fibre, is most firmly fixed upon it, and that equalization and even results cannot be produced even by means of continued boiling, as is so often done. It is therefore important to direct one's attention from the beginning to the equal attraction of the colouring matter. This is effected, provided the goods are clean and the mordant has been well and evenly fixed, by entering them at a low temperature, raising it slowly to the boil, whilst manipulating the material continually', and completing the lake formation by boiling. This method of dyeing requires some modification for certain dyestuffs, viz: those named on page 11.5, which must only be dissolved in cold water. These dyestuffs, being bisulphite compounds, especially the Alizarine Blue and Ceruleine brands, possess a greater solubility than the corresponding non-bisulphite brands, and are therefore more suitable for dyeing in an apparatus and for piece goods, where solubility is essential. Seeing, however, that the bisulphite compound disunites at 140—158° F. and above, and that therefore a dyestuff is regenerated which dissolves with greater difficulty, the tem- perature must, in these cases, not be raised to more than 140" F. and be kept at this heat until the dyebath is nearly exhausted. Only then may it be raised to the boil, and the lake formation be completed. Besides the regulation of the temperature, there is another means of controUing and retarding the attraction of the colouring matter to the fibre, viz: the employment of alkalies, especially ammonia. These alkalies combine with the colour acids to form easily soluble salts which remain in the dyebath, even at boiling heat, and allow the dyestuff to be taken up very slowly and imperfectly by the fibre. Only an addition of acetic acid liberates the colour acids, which then unite with the wool fibre. In all cases where ammonia is used for dyeing with mordant dyestuffs, the employment of pure water is of the greatest importance, as, otherwise, dyestuft would be lost through precipitation of lime and magnesium salts of the colour acids, and a thorough penetration would be almost impossible. In order to increase the evenness and penetration in the case of yarns and piece goods which do not easily dye through, also of hat bodies and for the production of light shades upon yarns and cloths, the following method is customary: The dyebath is charged with 5% acetate of ammonia, so that the dye liquid has a slightly alkaline reaction. The dyestuff being added, the goods are entered at the usual tem- perature, which is raised to the boil within an hour, and only after boiling for '/•- ^/i hour, the necessary quantity of acetic acid is slowly added, and after the colouring matter is taken up, the lake formation is completed by 1 — 1'/2 hours boiling. A similar method is adopted in dyeing on mechanical apparatus: for producing perfect penetration, and in order to avoid the filtration of the colour and to prevent paste dyestuffs which are not fully dissolved in the comparatively small quantity of water, from depositing themselves on the fibre, soluble ammonia salts of the colour acids are formed in the dyebath by the addition of ammonia, and the colour acid is liberated only at the end of the dyeing operation. The dyebath is therefore prepared with the requisite quantity of dyestuff, which is previously mixed with water, and is added to the bath through a sieve, and with 2- 3 "/o am- monia, so that it has a slightly alkaline reaction. The liquor is then allowed to circulate, and heated to the boil; after boiling for an hour, acetic acid is gradually added (most conveniently through a dripping funnel) to the bath, and the latter, when exhausted, boiled for another 1 — I'/s hours, in order to develop the colour lakes. The affinity of the ammonium salts of the colour acids for the mordant is so slight, that the dyeing in a mechanical apparatus can be begun with hot solutions — at 140" F. — and the dye liquids may then be used over again for further lots; however, the acid must be neutralized with ammonia, before replenishing with fresh colour. 140 General methods of wool dyeing. For the one-bath method, i. c, for using the mordant bath for dyeing also, — which operation can be carried out in connection with the bichrome-Iactic and sulphuric acid mordant, (compare page 137) — the following procedure is to be observed: After fixing the mordant completely upon the wool, — which is shown by the liquid becoming colourless like water, the bath is cooled down to about 122° F. and neutralized with ammonia, after which the requisite dyestufls are added, the temperature raised to the boil, and after boiling for '/s hour some more acetic acid is added, and boiling continued until the bath is exhausted. After dyeing, the bath may be used again for mordanting. By adhering to these directions, level results upon chrome mordant, and thorough pene- tration are obtained. But since the dyestuff, which is added to the dyebath at the beginning, is rarely suflicient to produce the desired shade, a further addition of dyestuff during the dyeing operation is generally necessary for dyeing to pattern. If, for tliis purpose, it seems necessary to add mordant dyestuft's to the dyebath, it is important to take into consideration that they are liable, in a hot acid bath, to form lakes quicklj' and thus equalize badly. It is therefore customary to cool the bath down to 122—140" F. before adding the dyestuff solution which, in dj-eing loose wool, should be poured evenly over the material. In dyeing yarn, the latter should be lifted, the colour is quickly and evenly distributed, and the yarn then well worked through the liquid. Finally, the temperature is again slowly raised to the boil. In those cases where the dyeing operation is begun with ammonia or acetate of ammonia, the bath must not only be cooled down, but also again neutralized before a further addition of dyestuff is made; and after heating it again to the boil and boiling for some time, acetic acid is added and the dyestufi" precipitated upon tlie fibre. After adding mordant dyestuflls the lake formation must be brought about by boiling sufficientlj^, lest the results should be of inferior fastness and brightness, and liable to rub. When the shade is nearly up to pattern, it is advisable to complete the matching with equalizing fast acid dyestuRs which can be added to the bath at the boil, and do not neces- sitate long continued boiling in order to fix themselves evenly upon the material. Experience shows that such small quantities of acid dyestuffs in no way impair the fastness of mordant colours. The undermentioned mordant dyestufis are suitable for dyeing upon chrome mordant: Alizarine Yellow paste, 5G, GGW powder, Alizarine Blue SB paste. SB powder, SBW GGW paste, RW powder, RW paste. paste SBW powder, SR paste, SR Mordant Yellow O. powder, SRW paste, SRW powder. Acid Alizarine Yellow RC. SBR paste, SBR powder, S2R paste. Alizarine Orange paste, powder, N paste, SRX paste. R paste, P paste. Anthrol Blue NR, NG. Alizarine Red, all paste brands, lWS,:i\VS, PS. Galleine paste A, paste R, paste R double, Alizarine Claret R paste. cone, W powder. Alizarine Brown paste, powder, R paste, Ceruleine paste A, paste SW, paste B, BR R powder, S powder, RD powder, paste, cone, S, S cone, BWR. N paste, G paste, F paste, H paste. Alizarine Green S paste. WR paste. Acid Alizarine Blue BB, GR. Alizarine Blue B, F, A, DN, DNW, R, RR, Aliz.nrine Direct Blue B. 042, 942g. Alizarine Direct Green G. Alizarine Dark Blue S, SV. Besides the above named real mordant dyestufl's, the foilowinf; clirotno devtloping dyestuffs can be used on chrome mordant, owing to their property of forming lakes with the chromium o.xide deposited upon the fibre. They arc therefore much used in combination with the mordant dyestuffs. Their lake formation is always more or less complete, but their fastness is considerably enhanced and in some cases becomes perfect if the dyed material is finally aficrtreated with 0.25— 0.5% bichromate of potash (provided, of course, that the mor- dant dyestuffs employed withstand this addition). Dyeing on a Mordant. 141 Dianil Fast Red PH. Acid Alizarine Red G, B. Acid Alizarine Grenade R. Acid Alizarine Violet N. Acid Alizarine Brown R, B, BB, T, RH extra, RP. Fast Mordant Blue R, B, RT, BT, BBR, Acid dyestufts suitable for final matching Flavazine S, L. Flavazine T. Azo Yellow O, cone. Victoria Yellow O, double, cone. Orange G, No. 2, No. 4 Brilliant Orange G, O, R. Azo Acid Red B, 5B. Amido Naphtol Red G, BB, (iB. Azo Acid Carmine B. Fast Acid Violet B, R, A2R, BE, RGE, RBE. Acid Alizarine Blue WE, WEB cone. Acid Alizarine Blue Black 3B. Acid Alizarine Grey G. Acid Alizarine Black oB extra, 3B, R, R extra, RG, RH, T, TG, AC, SE paste, SE powder, SET paste, SET powder, SN, SNT. on chrome mordant are the following: Fast Acid Eosine G, G extra. Fast Acid Phloxine A, A extra. Fast Acid Magenta G, G cone. Fast Acid Blue R, R cone. Milling Blue 2R extra. Acid Violet N, 5BF, 3RA, GBL, 6BN. Patent Blue A, AJI, AF. Alizarine Direct Blue EoB, EB. Naphtalene Green V, cone. H'2 General methods of wool dyeing. VII. Vat Dyeing. Ill the dyeing metliods hitherto discussed, the dyebaths are prepared with dyestufls whicli are soluble in water; vat dyeing, on the other hand, employes such dyeslufTs as are in tiiemselves insoluble in water. The consequence is, that their method of dyeing diflers entirely from all other methods both in its chemical aspect and its procedure. The dyestufls suitable for vat dj'eing are the so-called vat colours, i. e., colouring substances which are capable of being reduced into alkali soluble leuco compounds and are fixed in this form upon the fibre; they are then retransformed, by spontaneous oxidation in ihe open air, into insoluble dyestufls, and thus produce the coloured efl'ect upon the fibre. Of the various vat colours hitherto known, it is in the first place Indigo and a few derivatives thereof, which are applicable to wool dyeing. Indigo is one of the oldest dyestufls, and has from very ancient times played an important part in dyeing. L'ntil a few ye^rs ago known to the dj-er exclusively as a natural product of varying purity and productiveness, it is now artificially produced and placed upon the market by the Farbwerke Hoechst, as Indigo MLIS, in various forms, adapted to their particular mode of employment, of unvarying purity and uniform concentration. It is now hardly necessary to mention that the colouring matter of the plant Indigo and that of the synthetic product are identical as regards their chemical and tinctorial character, and represent one and the same substance, Indigotine, so that all rules and experiences gained in vat dyeing with natural Indigo, equally apply to the synthetic product. There is only one dift'erence, namely, that artificial Indigo is oftered for sale, always in its purest form, free from all injurious and extraneous substances, and consequently in a better and cheaper con- dition than the natural product. The advantages of the synthetic Indigo are so evident — though introduced only a few years ago — that they have caused the natural product to be greatly superseded, and the employment of Indigo in the wool industry, especially in fdst wool dyeing, to be enormously increased. We perceive that, since the appearance of synthetic Indigo, in a great many cases where formerly artificial blue dyestufls had displaced natural Indigo by virtue of their cheapness and more convenient application, the synthetic product now takes their place, reconquering not only the old domain which natural Indigo once held, but ever acquiring new fields. This preference for synthetic Indigo is justified not only by its purity, cheapness and une- qualled fastness, but must also partly he attributed to its improved method of application, above all, to that introduced by the Farbwerke Hoechst, by means of the improved Hydro- sulphite vat. Before occupying ourselves more particularly with the latter, and also with the fermentation vat which has to be considered for the purposes of wool dyeing, we will first describe the conditions under which dj'eing in the vat may be carrid out. 1. General Aspect of Vat Dyeing. In its essential composition, a vat — no matter whether hydrosulpliite, woad, soda or any other kind of vat — represents a solution, free from oxygen, in water of the alkali compound of Indigo white which is suitable for dyeing at a temperature of 113 — 122"F. The material is immer- sed in this solution, and allowed to remain therein for a certain period; when taken out of the vat it shows a blueish green colour, which, on being exposed to the influence of the atmosphere, will quickly change into the pure blue colour of Indigo. Each of these immersions is termed a dip. By repeating the operation with the same material in the same vat, i. e., by giving it a second dip, a shade is obtained about double the depth of the first, and by further increasing the number of dips, the shade becomes correspondingly intensified. The regulation of the number of dips afibrds, therefore, a simple niean§ of determining the depth of the resultant shades. A further means of attaining the same object is by controlling the concentration of the vat liquor. The greater the quantity of Indigo contained in the vat, the deeper is the shade. Vat dyeing. 143 A third means, is the length of time which tlie material is allowed to remain in the vat during the operation of dyeing. The more extended the time for each dip, the darker the shade, although the deepening of the shade does not keep pace with the length of time of the dip. There are, then, three means at one's disposal of arriving at the shade required, of wliich the concentration of the vat, and the number of dips, are used for getting near the desired shade, whereas the adjustment of time of the last dip serves as a supplementary method of dyeing accurately to pattern. As regards matching, the peculiarity of vat dyeing has to be considered, (apart from the fact that the shcde can only be judged after the complete o.xidation of the Indigo white). The material, when taken out of the vat, carries with it the Indigo white solution, partly ■ chemically fixed, partly however, only mechanically adhering to the fibre. On exposure to the air, the Indigo blue is formed, and therefore the particles which are only superficially attached to the wool fibre, impart to it a deeper shade; however, the succeeding operations to which the material is subjected, especially those of washing and milling, will remove the incompletely fixed Indigo from the fibre, so that the final shade is naturally lighter than when first matched direct from the vat. The loss in shade will, however, be slight in well con- ditioned vats and on cleansed material. In order to minimise as much as possible the loss of only mechanically fixed Indigo, various suitable mechanical contrivances have been constructed for removing the excess of vat liquor from the goods. They are passed through squeezing rollers immediately after leaving the vat; by this means the colour becomes faster, and waste of Indigo is more or less avoided. These squeezing apparatus are suitable above all for hydrosulphite vats, but are also very serviceable for fermentation vats, especially when these, as is often done, are recharged with reduced Indigo, as e. g. Indigo MLB/W. For the above named reasons, vat blues are matched either by comparing the shade with an unwashed pattern (which is done to save time) or, more exactly, by washing a pattern after oxidizing it first in hot water — and then comparing it with the sample. In matching, it is, however, alwaj's necessary to take into consideration the alterations in shade which take place in the finishing operations. At the same time, the aun of the dj'er must be so to regu- late the condition of the vat, that the difference between the unwashed and washed result is as slight as possible, for all the Indigo washed off during the various processes is lost, and therefore this means an increase in the cost of the dj-eing operation. In order to comprehend the methods bj' which this final object is achieved, it is neces- sar)' to investigate more closely the reactions which take place in the vat, and their effects. The Indigo white held in solution in the vat liquid in the form of an alkali salt, possesses an affinitj- for the wool fibre, and is capable of entering into combination with it, similarly to an acid dyestuft': evidently the wool substance assumes the part of the base, the Indigo white that of the acid. The Indigo white which is thus chemically combined with the fibre, becomes oxidized later to insoluble Indigo blue, and remains permanently fixed with the wool, those portions of the Indigo white solution, however, which were only held superficially by the fibre, do not become fixed and are removed by subsequent washing. Free Indigo white acid is a compound which is only slightly soluble in water, and must therefore be converted into one of its alkali salts before it can be dissolved in the vat, and enter into reaction with the wool fibre. Owing to the very mild acid character of the free Indigo white, however, the alkali added to the vat reacts also as a regulator of the affinity between Indigo white and the wool substance, in a similar manner as the mordant dyestufl's, which from a chemical point of view are to be considered as weak acids. In a properly con- trolled vat, the amount of alkali should only be sufficient to effect the solution of the Indigo white, and to retain it in this state until it has combined with the wool fibre. If the vat liquid contains too little alkali, the Indigo white is absorbed very rapidly by the fibre, or may even be precipitated in the bath. The consequence is that the material, — especially piece goods, — is not dyed through, or is entirely spoiled in dyeing. On the other hand, an excess of alkali in the hydrosulphite vat retards the dyeing, and therefore promotes even penetration throughout the goods; but it also impedes the dyeing by retaining the Indigo 144 General methods of wool dyeing. white in solution, i. e., the more alkali there is in the vat liquid, the lighter will be the resul- ting shades. In fermentation vats an excess of alkali obstructs the process of fermentation, so that in such over-limed vats, badly penetrated, grey and useless results are obtained. Moreover, an excess of fixed alkali is also injurious in another respect, namely, to the quality of the wool. Apart from ammonia, free alkali exerts a destructive influence on the wool substance, and this to a greater degree, the higher the temperature employed. It is therefore important to avoid an excess of alkali, and for the same reason the temperature of the vat must not be raised during the dyeing operation above 113—122" F., although the wool absorbs considerably more Indigo at a higher temperature. The dyer should, therefore, be able to discriminate between the excess of alkali whicli retards the dyeing process and impairs the quality of the goods, and the deficiency of it which results in an imperfect penetration and insufficient fixation. Besides, care must be taken that the Indigo in the dye liquor is in a perfectly reduced state throughout the dyeing operation: that there is no actual Indigo blue in the vats when entering the goods, and that it is not formed in the liquid during dyeing, by improper manipulation, either by contact with the oxygen in the air, or by bringing air into the vats together with the goods. Otherwise, the particles of Indigo blue formed in this way become only mechanically fixed on the fibre, and are ultimately removed again, thus causing loose colours and loss of dyestutT. The methods to be employed in order to set the vats properly, and also the modes of working them, vary considerably in the case of fermentation and of hydrosulphite vats. 2. Fermentation Vats. The working of the fermentation vat. The fermentation vat represents the oldest of all methods for utilizing the colouring properties of Indigo, and has been employed from very ancient times. Us application was brought about by observing certain phenomena of nature, but it is now often varied very considerably, according to local conditions. Natural Indigo is obtained from the Indigo plant by a process of fermentation which is due to the existence of microbes; these become active under suitable conditions, liberate hydrogen, and thus etVect the reduction of Indigo to Indigo white. The task of the dyer in working the fermentation vat, is therefore not a direct one; it is restricted, rather, to the creation and maintenance of conditions under which bacteria thrive. Tlie principal procedure in the fermentation vat, is, tiierefore, the study of tiie life process of these microorganisms. The bacteria which bring about the fermentation are extraordinarily abundant; they are found in the atmosphere, especially in Indigo dye works, in such quantities that, generally, the dyer need not pay any particular attention to their generation and cultivation. They are also present in woad, the substance used for setting (what is known as the) bastard vats, and in natural Indigo from the initial stage of its production. In synthetic Indigo bacteria are not present originally; this fact justly accounts for the slight differences in behaviour between vegetable and artificial Indigo, which are sometimes observed in the setting and working of fermentation vats with either the one or the other product. In practice, this is taken into consideration, by often setting fresh vats with the residues of natural vats, or by using a few pailfuls of the liquid of a well-conditioned fermenta- tion vat. The best way of proceeding in that case, is to pour the old vat liquor over the artificial Indigo, which is mixed with the necessary fernientatives (syrup, bran etc.) and to let the whole stand for 24 hours before adding it to the new blue vats. When it is remembered that in a vat set solely with natural Indigo, fresh quantities of bacteria are introduced with every addition of it, whilst this is not the case with artificial Indigo, it is evident that a more intense fermentation sets in when the former product is used exclusively, and that therefore, a vat containing synthetic Indigo only, requires less lime than the one containing vegetable Indigo. Fermentation Vats. 145 The life process of the bacteria and, consequently, the course of fermentation, is rendered possible by an adequate supply of sugar or carbo-hydrates producing sugar, such as syrup, flour, starch, dough, rice flour, rice water, dates, raisin?, honey, bran, etc. The bacteria split up the sugar compounds into various organic acids, such as acetic, lactic, butyric acids, along with carbonic acid, liberating hydrogen, which reacts on the Indigo blue, transforming it into Indigo white. The immediate result of the fermentation, therefore, shows an acid reaction which, per se does not lend, itself to the proper formation of a vat, i. e., of an alkaline solution of Indigo white. To accomplish this, an addition of alkali is necessary for the twofold purpose of dissolving the formed Indigo white, and to neutralize the acids generated during the process of fermentation. The fermentation, therefore, must take place in an alkaline medium. For this purpose lime and soda find most general application in European countries, whilst in other districts, according to local conditions, other alkalies and alkaline materials, such as potash and the ashes of plants, are employed. The addition of alkali has also a moderating and retarding influence upon the process of fermentation, and prevents a too vigorous and excessive activity of the bacteria. In the event of too rapid fermentation, the generation of hydrogen gas "becomes so strong that the whole vat liquid, including the sediment, is disturbed, and dyeing rendered impossible. At the same time, the excess of hydrogen is liable frequently to destroy a considerable portion, if not the whole of the Indigo in the vat : "the vat has run away". The proper control of the fermentation process by regulating the amount of alkali to be added, in order to prevent any loss of Indigo is, therefore, one of the most important tasks of the dyer. Nevertheless, the actual losses of Indigo in the fermentation vat are quite considerable and, owing to the above complex reactions, the conversion of Indigo blue to Indigo white is neither a smooth nor a regular process. It is therefore not very surprising that, in spite of the greatest accuracy in setting, and the most careful attention, fermentation vats do not dye regularly one day with another. The recipes for setting a fresh fermentation vat differ most widelj', according to the personal experience of the dyer, the local conditions, and the fermentatives and alkalies employed. As it would lead us too far to enumerate the various recipes, we will content ourselves with giving only two examples, the Soda Vat and the Woad Vat. Of course, any mode of working with natural Indigo is applicable also, in the same manner, for synthetic Indigo MLB. Soda Vat. Woad Vat. Vat capacity: 2200 gallons. Capacity: 2200 gallons. 16'/2 lbs. Madder 132 lbs. Woad 22 „ Syrup 44 „ Madder 66 „ Bran 16'/s „ Solvay Soda 44 „ Solvay Soda 22 „ Syrup 3.3 „ Indigo MLB paste. 55 „ Bran 6'/s „ Lime 33 „ Indigo MLB paste. Soda vats are heated to 130 — 140° F.; woad vats to 150 — 160° F. before the fermentation ingredients are added. It is customary to soak the woad in warm water for a day previous to its being added to the vat. The liquid is then thoroughly stirred for some time, covered up, and allowed to rest for about 24 hours. In most cases a slight fermentation will commence after the expiration of this time, which can be ascertained by gas bubbles rising to the surface on pushing the rake into the sediment; also by the liquid having a greenish tint and a sweetish smell. The vat is now again well stirred; as soon as the process of fermentation becomes more pronounced (which may be seen by the pale green hue of the liquor), a small quantity lOIe 146 General methods of wool dyeing. of lime should be added. As a rule, an active fermentation does not set in before 36—48 hours; the vat then appears a yellowish-green — "it has come on". Then commences the operation of "sharpening", by the addition, at intervals of 1—2 hours, of small quantities of lime, accompanied each time by careful stirring of the vat liquor, until the fermentation has been reduced to a minimum, and the original sweetish smell has given way to one of greater pungency. After having settled, the vat liquor should now appear a clear greenish -yellow, showing blue coherent veins and streaks, and be covered with a coppery film or flurry. A trial with a small quantity of wool will serve to indicate whether the operation of dyeing may be preceded with. The vat may be replenished daily during the next 2 — 3 days, with 10 — 20 lbs. Indigo MLB paste, along with the requisite quantities of fermentatives etc., bluing daily only one or two lots, until the vat has become sufficiently strong to be worked regularly. The temperature of the soda vat should not exceed 122" F., whereas the woad vat may be raised to 130—140° F. The soda vat is mostly used for lighter shades, because these turn out somewhat brighter and redder in it, than in the woad vat, whilst darker shades are more advantageously dyed in the latter. When dj'eing in either vat, the material is given several dips, even for light blue shades, except for so called points, viz: light blues which are to be topped with other dj-estufls after- wards. This is done partlj' to obtain greater evenness, partly because a shade obtained in several dips is bloomier and redder than the same depth of shade obtained in a stronger vat by a smaller number of dips. The time necessary for thoroughly reducing the regular Indigo additions in the fermen- tation vat, is considerable, and 8 — 10 hours must elapse before the vat is again in a proper working condition. Consequentl}', it is usual to dye as much wool as possible during the daytime, and to replenish the vats towards evening with the requisite additions of Indigo and fermentatives, soda and lime, then to stir the vats thoroughly and heat them up. By the next mor- ning the Indigo is completely reduced and dissolved, and dyeing can once more be proceeded with. Disadvantages of the Fermentation Vat. The atmosphere which comes in direct contact with the surface of the vat liquor during the dyeing operation causes some of the Indigo white to be re-oxidised to Indigo blue; and moreover, with the goods, a certain amount of air is always introduced into the inner vat, which likewise oxidises some of the Indigo white. A further deterioration of the vat takes place when the liquor, which is squeezed out of the goods and which is more or less oxidised, owing to its exposure to the air, runs back into the vat. Lastlj', some of the Indigo blue is only superficially attached to the dyed material, and this is brought back into the vat in the subsequent dips. During the dj'eing operation, the fermentation, however, is naturally so little active, that no Indigo blue can be reconverted into Indigo white. Hence, a fermentation vat becomes in a short time very rich in Indigo blue, and is then unfit for further dyeing. To these disadvantages must be added another: in working the vat, the fine particles of sediment gradually rise and permeate the whole liquid, so that only a limited number of dips per day can be made in the fermentation vat, after which it has to be given a longer rest. The sediment contains all insoluble fibrous portions of the woad and madder, the husks of the bran; large amounts of calcium carbonate, formed by the reaction of the lime used for "sharpening", and the soda, loose wool fibres, and coarse, unreduced particles of Indigo. This sediment gradually becomes coloured partly by capillary attraction, partly by chemical com- bination with the Indigo white and this naturally causes a further loss of Indigo. Moreover, owing to the fact that the finest particles of the sediment always remain in suspension in the liquor, the fermentation vat is never a clear solution. Consequently, these fine particles are deposited mechanically on the surface of the wool, and this has a detri- mental effect upon its quality, especially upon its pliability in spinning. Furthermore, the Indigo white attached to these fine sedimentarj' particles, becomes, as a matter of course, Hydrosulphite Vats. 147 only very superficially and loosely affixed to the fibre, and is washed oft' in the subsequent treatment; this leads again to a loss of Indigo and unsatisfactory fastness. In addition to the above drawbacks, all vats containing sediment have the further dis- advantage that tliey are very large, for they require the "dead space" below the trammel for the settling of the sediment. This space is generally as large as that utilized for dyeing, viz: the alkaline solution of Indigo white. It is at once apparent that the extra expenditure for larger dye vessels, and the increased cost of heating, neutralizing and preparing greater volumes of liquid is lost for the mere purpose of dyeing, and is only necessary to give the sediment space in which to settle. Although the Indigo contained in the sediment gradually comes into use, still the fact remains that the cost of working vats with this dead space for the sediment, is considerable. The efforts to reduce the great expenditure prevailing, and also to attain a high pro- ductive capacity, have lead to the employment of the so-called hydrosulphite vats. 3. Hydrosulphite Vats. While the reduction of Indigo in the fermentation vat is the result of living organisms (bacteria), the second method available for vat dyeing is based on a direct chemical process. In hydrosulphite vats, the reducing agent is the hydrosulphite, which, by supplying the hydrogen necessary for the reduction of Indigo to Indigo white, brings the latter product into solution in the presence of alkali, while it is itself changed to a salt of a higher degree of oxidation. Contrary to the fermentation vats, the reduction of the Indigo blue to Indigo white is not brought about in the vat itself, but in a separate vessel; a concentrated solution, known as stock vat, is prepared, from which the required quantity of Indigo white solution is taken and added to the dye vat. In order to free the dye liquid from oxygen before adding the stock vat, it is necessary to neutralize it with hydrosulphite. In fermentation vats this is super- fluous, insomuch as the hydrogen formed during fermentation renders the oxygen contained in the water harmless. The neutralization of the dye liquor is effected before the addition of the other ingredients, especially of stock vat solution, — by adding a small amount of hydrosulphite to it, which is oxidised by the oxygen contained in the water, thus freeing the liquor completely from oxygen. The older Hydrosulphite Vats. Of the older hydrosulphite vats, the zinc-bisulphite-lime vat was first introduced towards the close of the last century, in some wool dyeworks. This vat contained a hydrosulphite which was prepared by the inter-action of lime, zinc and bisulphite of soda: zinc dust is made to react upon bisulphite, and then caustic lime is added, and after allowing the sediment to settle, the clear solution represents the hydrosulphite. With this hydrosul- phite as the reducing agent, and lime as the alkali and solvent, a stock vat is prepared at about 158^ F., or sometimes this is obtained also by heating a mixture of Indigo and milk of lime together with the product of the reaction of zinc dust upon bisulphite; by the latter method, however, a considerable quantity of Indigo is lost through over-reduction. After neu- tralizing the liquor with hydrosulphite, the necessary quantity of slaked lime and stock solution are added to the vat, and the dyeing continuously carried out by further regular additions of caustic lime, hydrosulphite and stock vat. By this method considerable quantities of insoluble matter are introduced into the vat, therefore producing the same disadvantages which are attached to the fermentation vat through the accumulation of sediment. The hydrosulphite-soda vat is free from sediment, and is prepared in a similar manner to the last named, except that a previously prepared hydrosulphite solution is used, and the lime is replaced by soda lye as the alkali. This vat produces very bright blues and is free from all the disadvantages of the other previously described vats, which necessitate special treatment of the sediment. I4*i General melliods of wool dyeinj;. Disadvantages of the older Hy drosul phit e Va ts. Neither the sediment-free hydrosulphite-soda vat, nor the sediment-containing zinc-lime- bisuiphite vat can be called ideal vats for wool dyeing. Besides the fact that the sediment of the latter possesses all the disadvantages of the fermentation vat, the presence of lime and zinc affects the quality of the wool injuriously and makes it less pliable for spinning. Still, both hj'drosulphite vats possess great advantages as compared with the fermentation vat. Owing to the more energetic and quicker reducing action of hydrosulphite, and to the fact that the vat liquor is supplied with Indigo wiiite solution from the stock vat, a much larger output is possible, as these vats are always ready for dyeing further lots, immediately they are replenislied. Both vats, however, are rather difficult in their continuous manipulation, and involve risks which stand in the waj' of their general adoption. If the hydrosulphite vat is not well prepared, as is often the case when done on a small scale, the reduction of the Indigo is incomplete, and more hydrosulphite must be used, which increases the cost. Hydrosulphite prepared by the dyer himself, moreover, is apt to contain too much alkali. This, together with the usual addition of caustic lime or soda lye, renders the vat liquor often too alkaline for the wool. The excess of caustic lime and especially of soda lye yields poor and pale shades, and impairs the wool fibre considerablj* at the tempera- ture of 113—122° F. Furthermore, the energetic action of lij'drosulphite itself, is often a source of trouble. The hydrosulphite vats always contain a certain quantity of free or unused hydrosulphite, which serves to counteract any oxygen brought into the liquid either in entering the material, or in taking it out with the liquor squeezed out and running back into the vat. Naturally, the vat liquor adhering to the wool as it leaves the vat, also carries wilh it a certain amount of unused hydrosulphite, which retards the formation of the blue. Should the superfluous liquor be squeezed out sufficiently evenly over all parts of the wool, the hydrosulphite will also act evenly, i. e., the hydrosulphite itself becomes quickly oxidised and loses its reducing power, but, at the same time, retards the oxidation of the Indigo white. The consequence of this slow formation of the Indigo within the fibre is, that the blue is fixed, in, as it were, an amorphous condition which shows itself by a greenish tone, as compared with the violet hue of the Indigo produced in tlie fermentation vat, which is formed more rapidly owing to the absence of bacteria. Under normal conditions, however, this greenish tone is of little consequence, for it changes in the further treatments of the goods to the same shade as that obtained from a fermentation vat. If, on the other hand, the excess of hydrosulphite is not entirely squeezed out of the goods, it not only retards the oxidation, but even acts as a solvent for the Indigo on the fibre; thus damper portions of the material will appear lighter than those that are squeezed more, and owing to the capillarity of the wool fibre, the tips will often even remain undyed. Some dyers, having recognised long ago the vast benefits derived from immediate squeezing on lifting the wool from the vat, have, by carefully avoiding an excess of alkali, and by strictly adhering to the rules of working the old hydrosulphite vats, especially the sedimentless hydrosulphite-soda vat, gained such experience as enables them to work these vats satisfactorily. Yet the hydrosulphite vats have not become popular. In view of the many difficulties in working this kind of vat, it is not surprising to hear the opinion pretty generally expressed, that the hydrosulphite vats are only suitable for light shades. This opinion was, however, considerably altered when, in the winter of 1901—2, the Farbwerke Hoechst introduced their improved hydrosulphite vat. The Hoechst Vat. The improved hydrosulphite vat of the Farbwerke Hoechst, is free from sediment, and is set with glue, ammonia, hydrosulphite and a special preparation of Indigo, Indigo MLB Vat I. It excels all other kinds of vats, because, with the exception of ammonia, it contains no free alkali. This advantage is almost automatically brought about, insomuch as the reduced Indigo is supplied in the form of Indigo MLB/Vat I, and the requisite hydrosulphite in a ready Hoechst Hydrosulphite Vat. 149 solution as Hydrosulphite O, or in the form of a stable and easily soluble powder, as Hydro- sulphite cone, powder. The dyer, therefore, has only to apportion the ammonia which, as the mildest of the alkalies, does not injure the wool fibre even if used in excess. The employment of ammonia, which in itself is almost incapable of dissolving Indigo white, was rendered possible by the observation first made by the Farbwerke Hoechst, that in the presence of glue, Indigo white is not precipitated but held in solution by ammonia in a finely divided state, a so-called colloidal form, and in this state possesses a greater affinity for the wool fibre, than in the form of its soda nr lime salts. In working with the Hoechst hydrosulphite vat which is entirely free from sediment, a comparatively small dyevat, without the dead space, is used, whose capacitj- is sufficient only for the convenient manipulation of the goods. E.g. for 60 lbs. loose wool, a vessel of about 500 — 600 gallons capacity is quite sufficient. Our former remarks in respect of the influence of proper squeezing arrangements, hold good also for the Hoechst hydrosulphite vat; to these vats should always be attached an apparatus for squeezing, and it is advisable to use this even for light shades. In giving below an example of the setting of the Hydrosulphite vat, we wish to point out that further particulars of the construction of the dye vessels; and more special directions for the production of definite shades, will be contained in part 111 of the present work, when discussing the individual branches of the industry. A vat holding about 600 gallons is filled with water, heated to 120" F., and then I'/o— 3 pints of ammonia are added until the liquid shows a slightly alkaline reaction. Two gallons of a freshlj' prepared solution of glue are then added (2 lbs. dry glue), and finally 2—4 gallons of Indigo MLB; Vat I mixed with 2—3 gallons of Hydrosulphite O poured into the vat. The vat liquid is well stirred, and is then immediately ready for dyeing. The wool (about 60 lbs.) is entered, and moved under the surface of the liquid for 20 — 30 minutes, then it is lifted out of the vat with sticks or forks and immediately passed through the squeezing rollers. It is of great importance that the wool is passed through the squeezing rollers "green", viz., in the unoxidised state. After squeezing, the wool is allowed to lie in a heap until the blue is properly developed throughout: if the shade is not deep enough a second dip is given. Time may be saved by dyeing a second lot during the interval allowed for oxidising the first lot. Most shades can be obtained in two dips. The following particulars will serve to indicate the additions which are required of Indigo MLB/Vat 1, Hydrosulphite, and Ammonia (the proportion of glue always remaining the same for all shades). The appearance and reactions of the vat liquid are also to be noted. Appearance Reaction: Ammonia: of the liquor: none dark green only slightly alkaline little green weakly alkaline much yellow alkaline From this table it will be observed that for dark shades of blue, less Hydrosulphite is required than Indigo MLB/Vat I, and no ammonia; for medium shades, as much Indigo MLB Vat I as Hydrosulphite and only a small amount of ammonia, and for light, bright blues, more Hj'drosulphite than Indigo MLB Vat I and more ammonia. The condition of the Vat can be judged by the appearance and the reaction of the vat- liquor. The degree of alkalinity of the liquor may be ascertained by taking a small sample in a test tube or porcelain dish and adding one or two drops of an alcoholic solution of phenol- phthalein. The more alkaline the liquor is, the brighter will be the reddish tone imparted by the reagent added: if only weakly alkaline, the reaction is only slight and the colour quickly disappears. The management of the vat is as simple as its preparation. The quantity of Indigo MLB/Vat I added for the purpose of replenishing the vat is varied according to the depth of shade to be produced. For dark and medium shades it may be about one third and for light shades one fourth of the quantity first used. In the initial stages of working the vat, the quantity requisite for replenishing is somewhat greater; however, after three or four lots of material have been passed through the vat the amount becomes constant. Shade: dark Indigo MLB Vat I: much Hydro- sulphite little medium light equal litde equal much 150 General metkods of wool dyeing. Moreover, since coarse wool exhausts the vats much more readily than fine Botany wool, more Indigo \'at liquid I is required when dj'eing cross-breds &c. &c. The amount of Hj'drosulphite required for replenishing is about one half to two thirds of the original quantity. If the vat is rested for a time (overniglit for instance), the additions of llydrosulphite have to be increased. It is also advisable to add a small quantity of ammonia to the vats before covering them up, so as to retard the oxidation. This saves some Hydro- sulpiiite when starting again. The quantity of ammonia added to the vat is regulated by the shade to be produced and is readily estimated with the help of Plienolphthaleine. The more alkaline the vat liquid, the more slowly is the Indigo absorbed by the material, and the results thus obtained are more even. Consequently for light shades the vat liquid requires more ammonia than for dark shades. The latter are generally dyed evenly without any addition of ammonia. Occasionally, however, ammonia is added for dark colours when the vats have stood for some time unused, in order to counteract any acid reaction produced by the decomposition of the Hydrosulphite. The continuous use of the vat causes the dye-liquid tj become more or less contaminated by dirt and loose fibres and naturally this takes place much sooner in ammonia than in Tcrmentation vats, which contain at least three or four times the amount of liquid. Conse- quently it is advisable to renew the vat occasionally. No appreciable loss is entailed by this renewal as the vats can be completely e.\hausted by passing successive lots through them, for half a day, without anj' further addition of Indigo. Practical experience has shown that a vat of about 000 gallons, after having had 3000 - 4000 lbs. of wool passed through it, requires renewal. As this quantity of wool may easily be handled in a week's time, it is advisable to work nut the vat at the end of the week and set a fresh one on the following Monday. Advantages of the Iloechst llydrosulphite Vats. Of all the different vats which are employed in the dyeing of woollen materials, the Iloechst glue-hydrosulphiteammonia vat is the most preferable and considered to be the nearest approach to the ideal vat, both from a theoretical and a practical point of view. The Indigo for the vat is already contained in Indigo Vat MLB I, in the form of pure indigo-w^hite, in a perfect state of solution, along with a minimum quantity of the least harmful alkali to maintain it in solution. Moreover, all the Indigo added to the vat is available for dyeing, a decided advantage, which is never attained in other chemical or fermentation vats, in which consider- able loss of Indigo is entailed either through insufficient or too active reduction. Further, being set and maintained with carefully prepared hydrosulphite compounds, either llydrosulphite O or llydrosulphite cone, this also offers an advantage, inasmuch as these preparations are entirely free from lime, zinc, or excess of possibly harmful alkali. The employment of ammonia alone, and the absence ol other free alkalies, make it an absolute impossibility to damage the wool fibre during the process of dyeing. The glue serves a useful purpose since it permits of the employment of ammonia as the only free alkali; although, from a theoretical standpoint it would seem to be superfluous, close observations point to the fact that it exercises no injurious inlluence whatever. All the preparations employed for the setting of a Iloechst Hydrosulphite vat are entirely free from sediment; neither do they contain any substances which, when mixed with other ingredients, can produce insoluble matter. These considerations at once render it possible to construct vats without the dead space, viz: to work in relatively smaller dye vessels, and still lo increase their productive capacity. The advantages accrueing from the absence of harmful alkalies and sediment in the Iloechst vats, with respect to the quality of the wool, cannot be over-estimated. Wool dyed in the Hoechst vats is much softer in handling and more pliable than wool dyed in any other vat, and consequently in spinning it produces less noils. The cloth ultimately produced from this wool is also softer, more beautiful in appearance and possesses greater strength than The Various Preparations and Hydrosulphites. 151 that made from wool dyed in the old kinds of vat These advantages make is possible to use a much inferior quality of wool and yet to obtain the same final eflect as if a better quality had been employed. Just the contrary was the case formerly in the old vats, a much better quality of wool, than that ultimately desired, having to be used to withstand the deteriorating influences. The Hoechst vat is easily prepared, is ready for dyeing immediately and can also be quickh- replenished by suitable additions when necessary. It can be worked continuously the whole day if desired, there being no sediment which, once disturbed during the working, would have to be allowed to settle again. Consequently it surpasses all other vats for economy in working. With suitable apparatus provided with proper squeezing arrangements, it becomes pos- sible to obtain the darkest shades in only two dips, although it is advisable to give say one dip for light shades, two for medium, and three for darker shades. This is more satisfactory, as, by decreasing the number of dips with a corresponding increase in the concentration of the vat-liquor, some portion of the Indigo becomes only mechanially fixed upon the fibre. The degree of fastness of the blues obtained from the Hoechst vat is such as has not been attained with any other vat. In comparison with the shades obtained in fermentation vats, those dyed in the improved hydrosulphite vat are somewhat greener, a fact, however, which carries with it no disadvantages. These differences in shade on loose wool, slubbing, or yarn, are neutralised afterwards by the treatment which the wool receives before reaching the finished state, and on piece goods bj- steaming. Moreover, thej' can be avoided to a cer- tain extent by increasing the number of dips. In case the reddish shade is particularly desired (notabl}' in piece dyeing) it can be easily obtained by the employment either whollj' or partly of Indigo MLB/R. With regard to the actual cost of d3'eing, after calculating interest on capital, steam, labour and materials, there is a considerable margin in favour of the Hoechst vat, especially for medium shades, as compared to the fermentation vat without squeezing rollers. Only for the production of very dark shades, the difterence is not so marked. This comparison as to cost of production of deep shades, also holds good between the zinc-bisulphite-lime vats and Hoechst vats. When, however, the numerous advantages of the improved hydrosulphite vat are taken into consideration, its greater productive capacity, and not least, its beneficial rather than deleterious influence on the fibre, the improvement of the quality of the goods and the greater safety and simplicity of its manipulation, the slightly higher cost of the Hoechst vat is in reality more than compensated for. This accounts for the fact that since the introduction of the improved glue-anmionia- hydrosulphite vat a few years ago, it has been tried largely in all European countries and in many instances has entirely displaced all the old kinds of vats, particularly the fermentation vat. That such general preference should be accorded the Hoechst vat, over all others, proves the recognition of its many practical advantages, and supports the opinions we have already expressed. The Hoechst vat, therefore, marks a decided advance in the art of dyeing with Indigo. 4. The Various Indigo Preparations and Hydrosulphites. For the purpose of dyeing wool, Indigo MLB and MLB/R come into the market in several forms which are adapted to the various requirements of the trade. Indigo MLB Powder. Indigo MLB powder consists of almost pure 100 % Indigotine. It is sold in the form of a fine powder, in fact in such a finely divided state that it may be mixed with the Hydro- sulphite at once without any preliminary preparation, unless the employment of Vat I is decided upon. For fermentation Vats, however, it should be ground beforehand, although the latter operation need not be prolonged to anywhere near the duration requisite for vegetable Indigo. 152 General methods of wool dyeing. Owing to the finely divided state of Indigo MLB powder and its extraordinary volu- minous condition, it does not moisten very easily. It is therefore advisable in order to overcome this drawback, to first put the powder in a cloth sack, suitably weighted to sink, which is then placed in a convenient vessel containing water, and then boiled. Another method is, to subject the powder to the influence of steam by stretching a piece of canvas across a vessel containing boiling water, placing the powder on the canvas and then covering it over with a second piece. The steam penetrates the cloth and the powder throughout, and moistens it equally. Sometimes also a broom is used, bj' means of which the powder is beaten up in boiling water and thus converted into a paste. Indigo MLB in Little Lumps. Indigo MLB in little lumps is principally used in those districts where the heavier paste brand would be debarred, owing to excessive cost of transport and duty. It must be first ground in the same way as vegetable indigo before it can be used. Indigo MLB Paste. Indigo MLB paste consists of a paste containing 20 "o Indigotine. The Indigo in this case is so intimately mixed with water that it is ready for immediate application in all kinds of vats, including the fermentation vats, and is fully equal to vegetable indigo which has been ground. With the use of Indigo MLB paste, the cost therefore of the operation of grinding which is by no means a negligible factor (including as it does, motive power and interest on the grinding plant) is entirelj- obviated; moreover, no loss is occasioned by the dust of the powder Indigo flying about. Indigo MLB paste may therefore in all cases replace the natural product, and generally speaking, it will be found preferable to the powder brands. Indigo MLB/Vat L Indigo MLB Vat I is a solution of pure indigo-white in ammonia containing a minimum quantity of fixed alkali such as is necessary only for the preparation of the vat. It is suitable for hydrosulphite as well as fermentation vats. The utilisation of the Indigo in this state saves the costly process of converting the Indigotine to indigo white, and does away with mistakes and losses of Indigo which otherwise frequently occur. Indigo MLB Vat 1 therefore oilers considerable advantages over both the paste and the powder. Indigo MLB Vat I was originally put on the market with the intention of its application in the improved hydrosulphite vat, but very soon it proved of great success also in fermen- tation vats. As it represents a perfect solution of Indigo white, it can be added to well- conditioned fermentation vats, and these are then ready for dyeing immediately afterwards. It is clear why the preference is given to Indigo MLB Vat I, as against Indigo in fermentation vats, for not only is their working capability increased to at least double its former output but again the liability of over-reduction, which is otherwise ever present, is minimised by the use of Indigo MLB Vat I to a point that at least 10 per cent of Indigo are saved. By its employment in the ftrmentation vat, a weak vat can be transformed in the shortest time, into one of a medium or high degree of concentration. Furthermore, the use of Indigo MLB/Vat I permits of conditioning a fermentation vat with greater certainty, for much less lime is needed, and this addition can often be dispensed with altogether. Indigo MLB/W paste. Indigo MLB/W 50 ",o paste is a preparation containing pure indigo- white and no alkali. Like Indigo MLB/Vat I it is suitable for application in all sorts of vats, but in this case it is left to the dyer to dissolve the Indigo white in alkali and to find the amount needed. Twenty parts of Indigo MLB/W paste correspond to fifty parts of Indigo MLB/Vat I and it is still more suitable than this for application in fermentation vats. In a well-conditioned Dyeing in the Vat. 153 fermentation vat, it readily dissolves, and easily distributes itself throughout the liquor. While it possesses the same superiority as Indigo MLB Vat I, it has the further advantage over the latter, of containing no alkali, a fact which gives to the dj-er free scope in calculating the amount of alkali to be added to the vat. On account of the absence of ammonia from this preparation, the smell of the fermentation vat remains unaltered, and the process of fermen- tation is facilitated. For these reasons when setting and manipulating a fermentation vat with Indigo MLB/VV paste, smaller quantities of fermentatives are required, thus decreasing the cost and at the same time decidedly lessening the amount of sediment formed. Indigo MLB;R. All the preparations mentioned so far are dyestuffs containing indigotine, identical in constitution with the colouring matter of natural indigo. Indigo MLB/R, however, is a different product; it is a derivative of indigotine, which, however, is to be classed among the true vat colours. Indigo MLB/R appears on the market in the same forms as does Indigo MLB: as powder, paste and vat. The great value of Indigo MLB/R lies in its blueviolet shade which makes it especially valuable as a supplementary colour in Indigo dj'eing. The fastness of shades obtained with Indigo MLB, R is quite equal to that of Indigo MLB, and it is noteworthy that the shades produced by combining these two products, owing to a mutual complementary action, are particularly fast to steaming, to light and to air, even more so, in fact, than pure indigo blue shades. In the setting of hydrosulphite vats with Indigo MLB/R, it has to be observed that in order to obtain heavy blueviolet tones, a somewhat sharper vat is needed than when using ordinary indigo. Both in setting and in replenishing, rather more hydrosulphite is required than ordinarily. Although Indigo MLB and Indigo MLB/R, may be used together, especially in fermentation vats, practical experience has proved that the violet shade of Indigo MLB/R is more pronounced when used apart from Indigo MLB, particularly in the Hydrosulphite Vat. In view of this fact piece goods are often dyed first with Indigo MLB, the second passage being given with Indigo MLB/R. The same method is emploj^ed in the dyeing of loose wool and slubbing, or one part of the material is dyed with the one product, the other portion with the other, and the two lots mixed. By this method any desired shade can be obtained. This new dyestuft' is also of particular interest to the cloth trade, as by its use, a whole range of shades can be obtained, which possess a degree of fastness previously unattainable. These effects are produced in (he vat itself, whereas hitherto, shaded blues could only be obtained by supplementary treatment, i. e., topping with shading colouring matters of inferior fastness. A further advantage is that when dealing with naturally yellowish coloured material, a much purer and clearer blue shade is obtained with a mixture of MLB and MLB/R than would be possible with Indigo MLB alone, which would be greenish and dull. Lastly we will briefly discuss our Hydrosulphite preparations which are used in con- junction with the improved vats. Hydrosulphite O. Hydrosulphite O is a carefully prepared solution of a hydrosulphite compound of great reducing power, which, besides being free from lime and zinc, contains no free alkali of a harmful nature. Hydrosulphite O is reasonably stable, but after some time, particularly in hot summer weather loses many of its original qualities. It is advisable therefore, not to store it longer than necessary and to keep it in a cool place. Hydrosulphite cone, powder. Hydrosulphite cone, powder is a fine, dr3', greyish powder, whose stability is unliinited if kept in firmly closed tins. It is a neutral sodium hydrosulphite, free from all admixtures and salts, which makes it particularly valuable as a reducing agent. One part Hydrosulphite cone, powder is equivalent in reducing strength to 6 — 8 parts Hydrosulphite O. lOale General nictbods of Wool Dyeing. Its application is extremely simple, as it is only necessary to dissolve it in cold water in order to obtain a solution which is at once ready for use. and is employed in the same manner as Hydrosulphite O. Considering, however, that Hydrosulphite cone, powder is a neutral powder, whereas Hydrosulphite O contains some free alkali and ammonia, it is ne- cessary to take care that the requisite amount of alkali is added to the vat when working with solutions of Hydrosulphite cone, powder. This is of special importance for the production of light blues, which require somewhat sharper vats than dark blues, as otherwise a deficiency of alkali in the vat may cause indigo white to be precipitated, a defect which will show itself in an iridescent appearance of the vat liquor, in the duller, greenish tone and looseness of the shades produced, and also in an increased consumption of Indigo. These drawbacks maj' be counteracted bj' a careful addition of soda lye to the vat liquor, but in working with Hydrosulphite cone, powder, they may be obviated from the outset, by dissolving oO lbs. Hydrosulphite cone, powder in a mixture of 4 lbs. soda lye 77° Tw. and about Ifi gallons water, to which are finally added, i lbs. ammonia 25 "o. In this way 200 lbs. of hydrosulphite solution are obtained which are exactly equal to 200 lbs. of fresh Hydro- sulphite O, and have the same effect in the vat. The above defects will seldom be noticeable when dyeing dark shades, for which a less alkaline vat is required, since the larger amount of Indigo MLB \'at I necessary for dyeing, always carries enough alkali into the vat liquor; but here also it is possible to work with a solution of Hydrosulphite cone, powder obtained with the addition of soda lye and ammonia. We particularly recommend Hydrosulphite cone, powder for its stability and highly concentrated form where a long transport and heavy duties render Hydrosulphite O too expensive; also where a smaller or not regular consumption makes the storing of Hydro- sulphite O inadvisable; and, lastlj", as a reliable substitute for the latter during the hot summer months. Methods of altering the tinctorial properties of wool. 155 VIII. Methods of altering the tinctorial properties of wool. The usual methods for producing two or more coloured all wool effects is, to mix separ- ately dyed materials either in spinning (loose wool or shibbing of different shades) or in weaving (differently dyed yarns). Besides these, there is available the method of wool printing in general, and of vigoureux printing in particular. These latter will be fully described in the second and third volumes of this work. If the first-named method is adopted, e. g., for producing melanges of certain combinations which are not regularly asked for, it would be necessary, unless big stocks of ready dyed wool, yarns or pieces were kept, first to dye the loose wool to the various shades required, then to mix these shades, spin the 3'arn and weave the pieces, and finally mill, carbonize and' finish the manufactured cloth. During these operations it is unavoidable to have a certain amount of waste which increases the cost of the goods; moreover, it requires time to carry them out satisfactorily. Continued efforts have therefore been made to produce multi-coloured goods by altering the absorptive capacity of some parts of the wool employed, mixing this prepared wool with ordinary material, and then dyeing the goods only in the final stage according to requirements. This process has the advantages over the usual method, that waste in spinning and weaving is avoided, and that the goods can be supplied in much less time, seeing that they may be kept in stock in the unfinished state, though ready for dyeing, so that they can be delivered with the least possible delay. An obviously convenient method is to mix, spin or weave mordanted wool (prepared in the usual manner with metal mordants, especially chrome or alum mordant) together with unmordanted wool, or to weave mordanted yarn together with unmordanted yarn. If, afterwards, this material is dyed with mordant dyestuffs, these will, of course, be chiefly attracted by the mordanted fibre, while the unmordanted fibre remains altogether, or almost undyed. If, however acid dyestuffs, which dye both the mordanted and unmordanted fibres, are added to the bath containing the mordant dyestuffs, shades peculiar to the acid dyestuffs are obtained on the unmordanted fibres, and mixture shades of the acid and mordant dyestuffs together will appear on the mordanted wool. By this means it is possible to produce either coloured or nmlti-coloured melanges. This method, originally proposed for yarns and described in a German patent D.R.P. 70144, now lapsed, and for loose wool described in the German patent D.R.P. 110632, also lapsed, has, however, not met with general favour. The probable reasons are that the colour and white effects are seldom sufficiently clear, since all inordant dyestuffs colour the unmordanted wool to some degree, and that extreme difficulty is experienced in matching the colours accurately. Another method, which was described in the German patent D.R.P. 108 714 (also lapsed) consists of mixing chlorinated yarn together with ordinarj' untreated yarn, and is based on the fact that chlorinated wool absorbs all dyestuffs more eagerly, and therefore is dyed more deeply than ordinary wool. By combining the two kinds of yarn and dyeing them in the piece, dark and light effects are obtained, especially when direct dyeing cotton dyestuffs are used, which are par- ticularly suitable for that purpose. This process is also interesting from another point of view: peculiar crepon effects can be produced in milling, which is explained by the fact that chlorinated wool — contrary to ordinarj- wool — does not shrink in milling. The following directions for chlorinating wool will be found useful, as this operation is frequently resorted to in j'arn dyeing for producing material which, when subjected to special after-treatments, is distinguished for its soft and silkj^, scroopy handle, and is largely applied to knitting, hosiery and fancy yarns, in order to make them unshrinkable. The well washed yarn is first passed for 20 minutes through a cold bath containing 10 parts muriatic acid 84'/2''Tw. per 1000. After squeezing lightly, or allowing the liquid to run off evenly, the yarn is entered into a second bath containing a clear, well-filtered solution of chloride of lime (10 parts in 1000 water), in which the yarn is worked cold for ','2 hour. It 150 General methods of Wool Dyeing. is then slightly rinsed and passed again into the first bath, or into a third cold bath containing 10—15 parts concentrated sulphuric acid per 1000, where it is worked for another 20 minutes and again rinsed. In the following dyeing process it is important to remember that chlorinated wool alwaj-s shows a materially enhanced affinity for the dyestufls. Only colours which excel as regards equalizing should be used; the yarn must be entered cold, the amount of acid suitably decreased and the bath heated very slowly to the boil. After dyeing, the goods are well washed and hydroextracted; in order to produce the "scroop" ihey are then treated in a soap bath at 140° F. containing 5—7.5 parts Olive Oil soap per 1000. After again hydroextracting they are passed through a bath containing 7.5 parts muriatic acid Si's" Tw. per 1000 and finally washed, hj^droextracted and dried. To clear the white, it is expedient to sulphur the goods in the stove before they are finally dried. The method of weaving chlorinated j'arn together with non-chlorinated yarn, and then dyeing the woven piece in a single bath, has however not gained much importance: 1. because the affinity of the wool varies in proportion to the degree of its chlorination, 2. because it is difficult to dj'e to pattern and 3. because this method does not lend itself to the production of colour contrasts, but only yields light and dark effects of the same shade. By another method described in the German patent D. R. P. 137 947, considerablj^ better results are obtained. This method is based on the observation that wool treated with tannin and metal salts, especially tin and antimony salts, loses its affinitj' for the ordinarj' wool dyestuffs while, at the same time, its affinitj' for the basic dyestufls is considerably enhanced, so that its behaviour in dyeing resembles that of cotton. For this purpose the goods are treated with 20% tannin and 6"o muriatic acid for 1 hour at the boil, then lightly rinsed, boiled for " * hour in a second bath containing 12.5 ",0 tartar emetic and 10% acetate of soda, rinsed again and dried. This method is suitable for loose wool, slubbing and yarn, and yarns or fabrics produced from, and containing both prepared and unprepared material, are dyed with acid dyestuffs such as Flavazine T, Azo Acid Carmin B, New Coccine O, Victoria Rubine O, Chromo- trope RR, 6B, Victoria Violet 4BS, Azo Acid Blue B. The dyebath is prepared with 5—10% acetic acid, 20 — 50% Glauber's salt and tlie requisite amount of dyestufl"; the goods are entered at a medium temperature and dj'ed to pattern at 185 — 195" F. When observing these precautions the prepared fibre remains undyed, so that coloured and white eftects are obtained in one bath. If two-colour eftects are desired, it is advisable to proceed in the following manner: The dyebath is prepared with at least 10 °o acetic acid and the necessarj' quantity of the dissolved basic dyestufls. Pre-eminently suitable are: Methylene Yellow H, Auramine cone, Acridine Red 3B, Methylene Blue BB extra, Thionine Blue GO, Methylene Green G extra cone; then also in the second place, Brilliant Green crj-stals extra. Methylene Heliotrope O and Safranine cone. The goods are entered hot, the bath is then raised to the boil, and the material dj'ed to pattern at the boil (additions of basic dj'estufts may be made at the boil). Afterwards the unprepared fibre is dyed in a second bath, according to the directions given above. Dj'ed wool can be subjected to this treatment just as well as white wool, if the follow- ing dyestuffs have been used, which are fast to acids: Indigo MLB, Indigo MLB/R, Alizarine Blue A, DNW, Ceruleine A, SW, Chromogen I, Dianil Fast Red PI I, Milling Yellow O, Milling Scarlet 4R cone. The preparation scarcely affects the milling capacity of the wool, and withstands the preparatory finishing operations, i. e. milling, washing, crabbing, steaming and carbonizing, most satisfactorily, provided that no strong alkali is used in milling and washing. The dj'oing to pattern presents no difficulties, and with regard to fastness it is to be remarked that basic dyestufls fixed upon the prepared fibre by means of tannin show very satisfactory fastness to light, and are in this respect, not inferior to the acid dyestuffs used for unprepared wool. Methods of altering the tinctorial properties of wool. 157 1 St bath : (prepared wool) 0,1 "/o Brilliant Green crystals extra 0,025% Methylene Yellow H 10°/o Acetic acid. 2nd bath: (ordinary wool) 2% Victoria Rubine O SQo/o Glauber's salt 7,5% Acetic acid. The preparation can be carried out upon loose material, slubbing and yarn. By this means it is possible therefore to produce goods which in dj'eing show either melange or weaving effects. The colours come up so clear that many bright and pronounced colour contrasts, e. g. green and red, orange and blue, white and black etc. are obtainable. In order to produce white effects, the harder, lustrous kinds of wool, such as cross-breds, mohairs etc. are preferable for preparation; the finer wools are liable to turn yellowish through the tannin preparation, and moreover the latter does not act so efficiently upon them as on coarser wools. The yellowish hue of tannin treated wool is often very disagreeable for white effects, however it can be prevented by another treatment (described in the German patents D. R. P. 142 115 and 168 025) with concentrated sulphuric acid which, like tannin preparation, renders the wool insensitive to the ordinary wool dyestuffs, without affecting its white colour in the least. In conclusion, we may mention another interesting process whereby the tinctorial prop- erties of \vool are affected. A patent has been applied for (No. K 20 699 contains the des- cription) for rendering wool, which is naturally extremely sensitive to alkalies, insensitive to their influence by treating it for several hours with a hot solution of formaldehyde. It is claimed that wool so treated, may be dyed with sulphur dyestufts, e. g. in an alkaline sul- phide bath, but that it loses its capacity for milling. Chemicals and Tables. The Chemicals used in Wool Dyeing; Measures and Weights; Tables. The following part contains a survey of the chemicals chiefly employed in wool dyeing; mordants and auxiliary ingredients for dyeing, cleaning, finishing and other treatments. We have arranged them in alphabetical order, and propose to state briefly their application, characteristics and properties as relating to the purposes of dyeing and purchasing. In addition, we have compiled several tables comparing the most important weights and measures, and also others relating to the physical and chemical properties of solutions etc. Acetate of Ammonia. Ammonium Acetate, NH4C2H3O2, forms easily deliquescent crystals; it is generally put on the market in solution, or prepared by mixing acetic acid with ammonia, e. g. 105 cc ammonia 25 "/o with 150 cc acetic acid 50%, made up to 1 liter, thus obtaining a solution of 100 grams acetate of ammonia per liter. This solution has a weak alkaline reaction. On being heated, acetate of ammonia decomposes and gives off ammonia, thus rendering the solution gradually more acid. On this property is based the employment of acetate of ammonia in wool dyeing: in order to produce a mild, even and gradual acidification of the dyebaths charged with acid, developing and mordant dyestuffi which equalise with difficulty and are otherwise too rapidly attracted by the fibre. Acetate of Chrome. Chromium Acetate is put upon the market in two modifications, viz: as green or normal acetate, Cr2(CH3COO)6, and as violet or basic acetate, Cr2(CH3COO)4(OH)2, and is used as a chrome mordant in Vigoureux printing; but cannot be used in dyeing owing to its stability. The violet acetate of chrome can be obtained by dissolving chromoxide hydrate in acetic acid. For this purpose 1200 parts chromoxide hydrate paste 20% and 1300 „ acetic acid 9° Tw. are heated on the water bath until completely dissolved, and diluted to 25" Tw. Another method is based on the reaction of chrome alum upon sugar of lead: ( 1200 parts chrome alum, dissolved in f 1200 parts sugar of lead dissolved in I 2400 „ water ^" I 1000 „ water are mixed, the precipitate allowed to settle, the liquid filtered oft', and diluted to 25° Tw. llle 162 Chemicals and Tables. Specific Gravity and Percentage of solutions of basic (violet) Acetate of Chrome at 69» F. Spccifii ^CBr<^e, grams Cr.O, SpcciBc Degree* (rr»ms Cr.Oj Gr.v.tj- Braume per lilcr Gra\-ity Btiumi per lilcr 1,006 1,0 5 ! 1,089 11,8 70 1,013 2,0 10 1,096 12,5 75 1,019 2,T 15 1,102 13,2 80 1,025 3,4 20 1,108 13,9 85 1,031 4,2 25 1,115 H,9 90 1,037 5,0 30 1,122 15,7 95 ■ 1,043 5,8 35 1,129 16,4 100 i 1,050 6,7 40 1,136 17,2 105 ' 1,056 7,5 45 1,143 18,0 110 1,063 8,4 50 1,150 18,8 115 1,069 9,3 55 1,157 19,5 120 1,076 10,1 60 ' 1,UU 19,9 12.' 1,083 11,0 65 I The green modification is obtained in the following manner: 1200 parts bichromate of soda, dissolved in 1250 „ water, are mixed with 3000 „ acetic acid 9° Tw. To this solution are gradually added: 756 „ glucose, and the whole heated until turned green. Specific Gravity and Percentage of solutions of normal (green) sextuple Acetate of Chrome at 63° F. Specitic Degrees grams Cr,02 Specific D.-K.„, yiami. i.i,Uj Gravity Beaunie per liter Gravity Beaumi per liter 1,007 1 5 ' 1,084 11,1 60 1,014 2 10 1,091 12,0 65 i 1,021 3 15 1,098 12,8 70 1,028 4 20 1,105 13.6 75 1,035 4,9 25 1,112 14,5 80 1,024 5,8 30 1,119 15,3 85 1,049 6,6 35 1,126 16,1 90 1,056 7,5 40 1,133 16,9 95 1,063 8,4 45 1,140 17,6 100 1,070 9,3 50 1 147 1>!.5 105 1,077 10,2 55 1,151 19.0 107 Acetate of Lime. Calcium Acetate, CalCsHsOs)* + HoO, a whitish substance easily soluble in water, is used in wool dj'eing as addition to the dyebath in dyeing Alizarine Red and Alizarine Orange on alumina mordant. Its addition renders tlie shade brighter and bluer. Acetate of Soda. Sodium Acetate, NaCjHsOs + 3HsO, forms colourless crystals. 100 parts cold water dissolve 33 parts, 100 parts hot water dissolve 200 parts acetate of soda. It serves for Chemicals and Tables. 163 neutralizing free mineral acids, and is used for that purpose in Vigoureux printing; also as addition to the dyebath in dyeing with Resorcine dyestufFs, in order to retard the absorption of the colouring matter. Acetic Acid. Acetic Acid, CH3COOH; is in its pure state a colourless liquid called glacial Acetic acid which crystallizes at 62,6°?. and evaporates at 246° F. On account of its high price it is, as a rule, used diluted with water, and sold as commercial acetic acid in various concen- trations from 30— 90°/o. Acetic acid should be free from any considerable quantity of inorganic acids. It is extensively used in wool dyeing, especially for the correction of water containing lime, in dyeing v/ith basic dyestuffs and with mordant and developing dyestuffs which are sensitive to lime; moreover for dyeirg with dyestuffs that equalize with difficulty or are sen- sitive to sulphuric acid, such as the Resorcine colours, as a mild acid, instead of sulphuric or formic acid. It is also used as addition to printing colours in Vigoureux printing. In the present work acetic acid is always referred to as of 12° Tw. = SO'/o, unless stated otherwise. Particulars respecting the degrees of concentration of commercial acetic acid are furnished in the subjoined table: Specific Gravity of Acetic Acid at 59° F. (Oudemans.) Specific Giavity Percentage Specific Gravity Perccnt.ige 1 Speci6c Gravity Percentage Specific Gravity Percentage 0,9992 1,0363 26 1,0631 52 1,0748 78 1 1,0007 1 1,0375 27 1,0638 53 1,0748 79 1,0022 2 1,0388 28 1,0646 54 1,0748 80 1,0037 3 1,0400 29 1,0653 55 1,0747 81 1,0052 4 } 1,0412 30 1,0660 56 1,0746 82 1,0067 5 1,0424 31 1,0666 57 1,0744 83 1,0083 6 1,0136 32 1,0673 58 1,0742 84 1,0098 7 1,0447 33 1,0679 59 1,0739 85 [ 1,0113 8 1,0459 34 1,0685 60 1,0736 86 1,0127 9 1,0470 35 i 1,0691 61 1,0731 87 ! 1,0142 10 1,0481 36 1,0697 62 1,0726 88 1,0157 11 ! 1,0492 37 1,0702 63 1,0720 89 • 1,0171 12 1,0502 38 1,0707 64 1,0713 90 1 1,0185 13 1,0513 39 1,0712 65 1,0705 91 1,0200 14 1,0523 40 1,0717 66 1,0696 92 ! 1,0214 15 1,0533 41 1,0721 67 1,0686 93 1,0228 16 1,0543 42 1,0725 68 1,0674 94 1,0242 17 1,0552 43 1,0729 69 1,0660 95 1,0266 IS 1,0562 44 1,0733 70 1,0644 96 1,0270 19 1,0571 45 1,0737 71 1,0625 97 1,0284 20 1,0580 46 1,0740 72 1,0604 98 1,0298 21 1,0589 47 1,0742 73 1,0580 99 1 1,0311 22 1,0598 48 1,0744 74 I 1,0553 100 1,0324 23 1,0607 49 1,0746 75 j 1,0337 24 1,0615 50 1,0747 76 1,0350 25 1,0623 51 1,0748 77 Note. The specific gravities above 1,0553 correspond to two solutions of different percentage. In order to ascertain whether the strength of any given acetic acid exceeds 78 °'o, the maximum density, it only needs the addition of some water. If the specific gravity increases, the acid is stronger than 78 °/o, if it decreases, it is weaker. 164 Chemicals and Tables. Alum. Under this name both Ammonium Alum, Ali(SO.)a(NH4),SO< + 24HiO and Potash Alum, Al2(SO,)3.KjSO« + 24HsO, which for the purposes of wool dyeing are to be considered, are put upon the market. Commercial Ammonium Alum and Potash Alum are generally offered in a verj- pure slate, and are almost alike in their properties and efiects. 100 parts water dissolve at 50° F, at 212" F 9 parts 422 parts ammonium alum 9,5 parts 357 parts potash alum Alum is used for many purposes in wool dyeing. In dyeing with Alkali Blue it serves as an acid medium for souring ofl"; also as an auxiliary mordant in dyeing with Resorcine dye- stuffs; it is employed very largely moreover for the production of the alum mordant for dyeing wool materials with Alizarine Red, Alizarine Orange etc., also as a developer in dyeing with developing dyestuffs, which are fi.xed with alum. For all these purposes, especially in dyeing Red, care must be taken that the alum be free from iron. It is also used in Vigoureux printing as a weak acid. Aluminium Chloride. Aluminium Chloride, AI2CI6+ 12H..O, is put upon the market in the form of soft white to yellowish grains, or as a watery solution of various concentrations. It is used for car- bonizing wool materials, but its reaction is weaker than that of sulphuric acid, and is based on the fact that, when heated, it decomposes, giving off hydrochloric acid gas. It is employed for colours that do not stand carbonizing with sulphuric acid, and especiallj' for piece goods which are to be carbonized after dyeing. As the alumina oxide, formed during the dissociation, is deposited upon the wool fibre, and is apt to impart a disagreeable handle to the goods, the use of aluminium chloride should be limited to those cases which do not admit of car- bonizing with sulphuric acid. Aluminium chloride is easily soluble in water, 400 parts dissolving in 100 parts cold water. On being heated, it liquefies even without anj' addition of water. The following table shows the percentages of newlj' prepared solutions: Specific Gravity and Percentages of solutions of Aluminium Chloride at 59° F. (Gerlach.) Specific Gravity Percentage Specific Gravity Percentage Specific Gravity Pcrcenlage Specific Gr.ivit)- Percentage 1,00721 1 1,08902 12 1,17953 23 1,28080 34 1,01443 2 1,09684 13 1,18815 24 1,29046 35 1,02164 3 1,10466 14 1,19676 25 1,30066 36 1,02885 4 1,11248 16 1,20584 26 1,31086 37 1,03603 5 1,12073 16 1,21493 27 1,32106 38 1,04353 6 1,12897 17 1,22406 28 1,33126 39 1,06099 7 1,13721 IS 1,23310 29 1,34146 40 1,05845 8 1,14545 19 1,24219 30 1,35224 41 1,06591 9 1,15370 20 1,25184 31 1,35359 41,126 1,07337 10 1,16231 21 1,26194 32 t 1,08120 11 1,17092 22 1,27115 33 Aluminium Sulphate. Aluminium Sulphate or Sulphate of Alumina, AUfSOjjs -|- ISHjO, 85 parts of which dissolve in 100 parts cold water, 1130 parts in 100 parts hot water, is usually put upon the Chemicals and Tables. 165 market in irregular lumps. Aluminium sulphate, which is cheaper than alum, can be used for the same purposes as the latter; in its effect, 60 parts are equivalent to 100 parts alum. Nevertheless, alum is preferred, as it oflfers a greater guarantee for purity, especially for the absence of iron which, e. g., if alumina mordant is used, has a tendency to dull the shades. Ammonia. Ammonia or Spirits of Ammonia, NH3, is usually put upon the market as a watery solution of various concentrations; more rarely, as a compressed gas. Being a volatile alkali which does not injuriously affect the wool fibre, it is extensively employed in the manufacture of woollen goods, especially for washing, either alone or in conjunction with soap or soap and soda; also for neutralizing dyebaths and retaining their alkaline condition, e. g. for Ali- zarine dyestuflfs or such as equalize with difficulty, and lastly as an alkali not injurious to wool, for setting and controlling the hydrosulphlte vat. The percentages of solutions of commercial ammonia of 25 %, to which all references are made in this work, are shown in the following table: Specific Gravity of solutions of Ammonia at 59° F referred to water of 59° F=l. (Lunge and Wiernik 1898.) 1 litre 1 litre Specific Percentage contains Correction Specific Percentage contains Correction Gravity NH, at 59° F for+l«C Gravity NH, at 59° F for + 1° C 1 grammes NH| grammesNHi 1,000 0,00 0,0 0,00018 0,940 15,63 146,0 0,00039 0,998 0,45 4,5 0,00018 0,938 16,22 152,1 0,00040 0,996 0,91 9,1 0,00019 0,936 16,82 157,4 0,00041 0,994 1,37 18,6 0,00019 0,934 17,42 162,7 0,00041 0,992 1,84 18,2 0,00020 0,932 ]8,0B 168,1 0,00042 0,990 2,81 22,9 0,00020 0,930 18,64 173,4 0,00042 0,983 2,80 27,7 0,00021 0,928 19,25 178,6 0,00043 0,986 8,30 32,5 0,00021 0,926 19,87 184,2 0,00044 0,984 3,80 37,4 0,00022 0,924 20,49 189,3 0,00045 0,982 4,30 42,2 0,00022 1 0,922 21,12 194,7 0,00046 0,980 4,80 47,0 0,00028 0,920 21,75 200,1 0,00047 0,978 5,80 51,8 0,00023 0.918 22,39 205,6 0,00048 0,976 5,80 56,6 0,00024 0,916 23,03 210,9 0,00049 0,974 6,80 61,4 0,00024 0,914 23,68 216,3 0,00050 0,972 6,80 66,1 0,00025 0,912 24,33 221,9 0,00051 0,970 7,31 70,9 0,00025 0,910 24,99 227,4 0,00052 0,968 7,82 75,7 0,00026 0,908 25,65 282,9 0,00053 0,966 8,33 80,5 0,00026 0,906 26,31 238,3 0,00054 0,964 8,84 85,2 0,00027 0,904 26,98 243,9 0,00055 0,962 9.35 89,9 0,00028 0,902 27,65 249,4 0,00056 0,960 9,91 95,1 0,00029 0,900 28,33 255,0 0,00057 0,958 10,47 100,8 0,00030 0,898 29,01 260,5 0,00058 0,956 11,03 105,4 0,00031 0,896 29,69 266,0 0,00059 0,954 11,00 110,7 0,00032 0,894 30,37 271,5 0,00060 0,952 12,17 115,9 0,00033 0,892 31,05 277,0 0,00060 0,950 12,74 121,0 0,00034 0,890 31,75 282,6 0,00061 0,948 13,31 126,2 0,00035 0,888 32,50 238,6 0,00062 0,946 13,88 131,3 0,00036 0,886 33,25 294,6 0,00063 0,944 14,46 186,5 0,00037 0,884 34,10 301,4 0,00064 0,942 15,04 141,7 0,00033 0,882 34,96 308,3 0,00065 1 166 Chemicals and Table*. The figures for correction in column 4 apply to the difference of temperature between 55 and 03" F. If, e. g. at 55° (13° C), the specific gravity is found to be 0,900, it must be put at 59° (1.° C) as 2X0,00057 = 0,001 less, which gives the specific gravity as 0,^99, whereby the proportion of ammonia becomes 'j",, higher. Ammonium Carbonate. Ammonium Carbonate or Carbonate of .\inmonia, in its pure state (NHilsCOj, is mostly sold in the form of hartshorn salt which has a more complex composition, and is transformed in hot water to ammonium carbonate. In wool washing it is used as a mild alkali, as addition to washing Ij'es, and also sometimes, e. g. in the manufacture of hats, as a mild neutralizing agent for acids. Ammonium Chloride. Ammonium Chloride or Sal Ammoniac, NIUCl, forms colourless crystals, 33 parts of which are soluble in 100 parts cold water and 73 parts in 100 parts hot water; it is sometimes used for neutralizing alkaline solutions, and in wool washing as addition to washing lyes. Ammonium Oxalate. Ammonium Oxalate or Oxalate of Ammonia, (Ml4|2C..04 + HaO, is put upon tlie market in the form of colourless crystals. It can be used in the same manner as acetate of ammonia, in order to retard the absorption of the dyestufFs which equalize with difficulty, by the gradual splitting off of oxalic acid when heated. Its chief use, however, is for rendering harmless the lime which appears dissolved in hard water. This is due to its property of reacting upon dissolved lime salts and precipitating oxalate of lime. Ammonium oxalate can be easilj' pro- duced from oxalic acid and ammonia. For that purpose 90 grammes oxalic acid are dissolved in 200 cc water of not abo\e 122° F, then 100— 110 cc ammonia 25 "/o are added, until a neutral reaction takes place. Thus a solution is obtained which contains 100 grammes ammonium oxalate per liter. Ammonium Sulphocyanide. Ammonium Sulphocyanide, NHiSCN forms colourless crystals easily soluble in water; it is noted for the propertj' of being converted into sulphocyanide of copper in a watery or acid solution with copper salts. It is therefore added to the dj'ebath containing dyestuffs sensitive to copper, in order to protect them from the injurious effects of the copper in copper vessels etc. Bichromate of Potash. Bichromate of Potash, K^Cr-jO:, is put upon the market in its pure state, in the form of large reddish-yellow crystals which are not hygroscopic. 10 parts are soluble in 100 parts cold water, 100 parts in 100 parts hot w^ater. It is extensively used in wool dyeing for the production of chrome mordants on wool, for developing the chrome developing colours, for stripping shoddy, also for the production of other chrome mordants, e. g. chromium acetate. Bichromate of Soda. Bichromate of Soda or Sodium Bichromate, NajCrjO? + 2HsO, is used for the same pur- poses as bichromate of potash; is cheaper and more easily soluble; its reddish-yellow crj-stals are very hygroscopic. 100 parts cold water dissolve 100 parts, 100 parts hot water dissolve 160 parts bichromate of soda. It is sometimes adulterated with neutral bichromate of soda; a good quality of bichromate of soda is equivalent to the same quantity of bichromate of potash, and may be used in wool dyeing instead of the latter without hesitation. Chemicals and Tables. 167 Bluestone. See Sulphate of Copper. Borax. Borax or Sodium Borate, Na2B407 + 10H«O, is put upon the market in its pure state, and forms large monoclinic prisms. 6 parts are soluble in 100 parts cold water, 200 parts in 100 parts hot water. It has a slighllj' alkaline reaction, on account of which it is used for dyeing Alkali Blues. Sometimes it is also used as a neutralizing agent, e. g., in the hat industry, where it also serves to make the shellac solutions which are used for stiffening hats. British Gum. British Gum is a thickening much employed in Vigoureux printing, obtained by roasting maize starch, and is put upon the market as light or dark coloured powders. The former are roasted less, and contain larger quantities of still unconverted starch; they are more advan- tageous as a thickening. On the other hand, the darker kinds (roasted more completely) are preferable for printing with alkaline dyestuffs. In order to produce a British gum thickening, British gum is mixed with water, heated until completely dissolved, whilst being constantly stirred, and then allowed to cool. A British gum thickening contains 30— o0",o British gum powder. Burnt Lime. Burnt Lime or Caustic Lime, CaO, when mixed with water is known as slaked lime, Ca{OH)2; it is used in working the fermentation vat, viz: for neutralizing the organic acids generated by the process of fermentation, and by interchange with soda, for producing the caustic alkali necessary for dissolving the indigo white. Calcium Acetate. See Acetate of Lime. Calcium Hypochlorite. Calcium H3'pochlorite, CaOaClj, is put upon the market as a white powder smelling of chlorine. In the open air Calcium Hypochlorite is very hj-groscopic, viz: it attracts moisture and carbonic acid and loses its efficacy; it should therefore be kept in clo.^ed boxes. 1 part calcium hj'pochlorite dissolves in 20 parts cold water, leaving, however, an insoluble residue of caustic lime. In order to prepare solutions of calcium hypochlorite, 1 part is mixed with 3 parts cold water, and a further 3 parts of water added. After being well stirred, the mixture is allowed to stand, the clear liquid is drained off and, if necessary, water is added. Calcium hypochlorite is used for chlorinating yarn, and sometimes also in Vigoureux printing. Carbonate of Ammonia. See Ammonium Carbonate. Carbonate of Potash. Carbonate of Potash or Potash, in its desiccated state K2CO3, in its crystalline state K2CO3 + IV2H2O, forms a pure white, easily deliquescent substance. Potash is much used in the form of raw vegetable ash, instead of soda in fermentation vats. Moreover, the easy solubility of its fatty acid compounds renders it serviceable for the production of soaps (potash or soft soaps), and it is therefore largely used in wool washing. Its alkaline reaction is milder than that of tlie cheaper soda. 168 Chemicals and Tables. Carbonate of Soda. Carbonate of Soda or Soda, is put upon the market either in crystalline form as soda crystals, NajCOj + lOHtO, or as calcined soda, Solvay soda, NajCOj, more rarely as so-called crystal carbonate, NajCOj -f HtO. Soda crystals, 21 parts of which dissolve in 100 parts cold water, 420 parts in 100 parts hot water, usually contain some Glauber's salt, but are free from injurious impurities. In wool dyeing it is often replaced by the cheaper calcined soda which is commercially sold in various concentrations and purity. Good Solvay soda contains at least 98 °o NajCOj, and is as serviceable in wool dyeing as soda crystals. Qualities of smaller percentage, however, should only be used after being tested for any possible admixtures, such as caustic soda or sodium sulphide. 36 parts pure calcined soda correspond to 100 parts soda crystals. In wool dyeing, soda is largely employed for washing and milling, as an addition to soap, in order to enhance its efficiency and for neutralizing carbonised goods. It is also used for dyeing Alkali Blues, and in fermentation vats where it serves for neutralizing the acids geneiatcd in the process of fermentation and, by intercharge with the lime, supplies the caustic alkali requisite for dissolving the indigo white. The subjoined table shows the concentration of pure watery solutions of soda. Specific Gravity and Percentages of Solutions of Soda at 59° F. (Lunge.) Specific Depiees Degrees Per Cent. by Weight 1 cbm contains kg Gravity Beaumc Twaddell Na.CO. Xa.CO, + 10 aq. Na.co. , _^_ ,„ ^^ 1,007 1 1,4 0,67 1,807 6,8 18,2 1,014 2 2,8 1,33 3,587 13,5 36,4 1,022 3 4,4 2,09 5,637 21,4 57,6 1,029 4 5,8 2,76 7,444 28,4 766 1,036 5 7,2 8,43 9,251 35,5 95,8 1,045 6 9,0 4,29 11,570 44,8 120.9 1,052 7 10.4 4,94 13,323 52,0 140,2 1,060 8 12,0 5,71 15,400 60,5 163,2 1,067 9 13,4 6,37 17,180 68,0 183,3 1,075 10 15,0 7,12 19,203 76,5 206,4 1 1,083 u 16,6 7,88 21,252 85,3 230.2 1,091 12 18,2 8,62 23,248 94,0 253,6 1,100 13 20,0 9,43 25,432 103,7 279,8 1,108 14 21,6 10,19 27,482 112,9 304,5 1,116 15 23,2 10,95 29,532 122,2 329,6 1,125 KJ 25,0 11,81 31,851 132,9 358,3 1,134 17 26,8 12,61 34.009 143,0 385,7 1,142 18 28,4 13,16 35,493 150.3 405,3 ! 1,152 "■' 30,4 14,24 1 38,406 164,1 442,4 i Carbo-hydrates. Carbo-hydrates of most diverse origin and composition, such as flour, starch, bran, rice, rice flour, bread dough, sugar, syrup, raisins, dates, honey, etc. are used for working the fermentation vats, according to local circumstances, with the object of cultivating bacteria. Chemicals and Tables 169 Caustic Lime. See Burnt Lime. Caustic Soda. Caustic Soda or Sodium Hydroxide, NaOH, is put upon the market mostly as a solution of sodium hydroxide. In its pure state it forms a white, crystalline, brittle substance easily soluble in water, but is also commercially sold in solid form either in large lumps, or little leaves or scales. Caustic soda is used in wool dyeing in the zinc-bisulphite-soda vat, and also for the production of soaps. Caustic soda is very injurious to the wool fibre on account of its corrosive reaction. The percentages of the commercial solutions, — provided they do not contain manj- impurities, such as soda, Glauber's salt etc. — are shown in the following table: Specific Gravity of Caustic Soda at 59° F. (Lunge.) Specific Be Twaddell °/. Specific Be Twaddell "/. Specific Be Twaddell Gravity NaOH Gravity NaOH Gravity NaOH 1,007 1 1,4 0,61 1,142 18 28,4 12,04 1,320 35 64,0 i 28,83 1,014 2 2,8 1,20 1,152 19 30,4 13,55 1,332 36 66,4 29,93 1,022 3 4,4 2,00 1,162 20 32,4 14,37 1,345 37 69,0 31,22 1 1,029 4 5,8 2,71 1,171 21 34,2 15,13 ' 1,357 38 71,4 32,47 1 1,036 5 7,2 3.35 1,180 22 36,0 15,91 1 1,370 39 74.0 33,69 j 1,045 6 9,0 4,00 1,190 23 38,0 16,77 1,383 40 76,6 34,96 1,052 7 10,4 4,64 1,200 2t 40,0 17,67 1,397 41 79,4 36,25 1,060 8 12,0 5,29 1,210 25 42,0 18,58 1,410 42 82,0 37,47 1,067 9 13,4 5,87 1,220 26 44,0 19,58 1,424 43 84,8 38,80 1,075 10 15,0 6,55 1,231 27 46,2 20,59 1,438 44 87.6 39,99 1,083 11 16,6 7,31 1,241 28 48,2 21,42 1,453 45 90,6 41,41 1,091 12 18,2 8,00 1,252 29 50,4 22,64 1,468 46 93,6 42,83 : 1,100 13 20,0 8,68 1,263 30 52,6 23.67 1,483 47 96,6 44,H8 1,10S 14 21,6 9,42 1,274 31 54,8 24,81 1,498 48 99,6 46,15 1,116 15 23,2 10,06 1,285 32 57,0 25,80 1,514 49 102,8 47,60 1 1,125 16 25,0 10,97 1,297 33 59,4 26,83 1,530 50 106,0 49,u2 i 1,134 1 17 26,8 11,84 1,808 34 61,6 27,80 ; Chloride of Tin. Chloride of Tin, SnCU + SHjO, is. put upon the market as a white crystalline substance which is easily soluble in water. Chloride of tin is sometimes used instead of sulphuric acid for souring off Alkali Blues, and renders the shades faster to milling than the latter. Chromaline. Under the designation, Chromaline D, a liquid preparation (latterly also offered in solid form) is put upon the market, produced by a patented process of Eberle iS: Co., Stuttgart. Chromaline is used in printing, especially for slubbing, as a substitute of chromium acetate and fluoride of chrome; it splits into acid and chromium oxide more easilj* than these, without being unstable at the ordinary temperature. Chrome Alum. Chrome Alum, K2S04 .Cr2(S04)3 + 24H»0, is put upon the market in large dark violet crystals. 20 parts chrome alum are soluble in 100 parts cold water, 50 parts in 100 parts hot Hale 170 Chemicals and Tables. water. It serves for the production of various mordants, e. g., chromium acetate; it is also largely used in wool dj-eing for the better fixation of acid dyestufts; it is either at once added to the dyebath, or used for aftertreating the colours. Chromic Acid. Chromic Acid, CrOs, forms red, very hygroscopic needles which are very easily soluble m water. Chromic acid is sometimes, though rarely, used for mordanting wool. Chromium Acetate. See Acetate of Chrome. Common Salt. Common Salt or Sodium Chloride, KaCl, which plays an important part in cotton dyeing as addition to all kinds of direct dyeing colours, is seldom used in wool dyeing. It is some- times employed in wool washing as an addition to the wash liquors. Copper Vitriol. See Sulphate of Copper. Epsom Salt. See Magnesium Sulphate. Fluoride of Chrome. Fluoride of Chrome, CrsFlo + SHaO, is put upon the market as a green crj'stalline powder wliicli is easily soluble in water. It serves in wool dyeing for the production of the chrome mordant, 2— 4"o fluoride of chrome and the same amount of oxalic acid being used. It is, moreover, employed in a large measure for afterchroming developing dyestufts, and as chrome mordant in V'igourcux printing. Formaldehyde. Formaldehyde, HCHO, is a very volatile compound, easily soluble in water, of pungent smell, and is put upon the market as a solution of 40"ij. Formaldehyde is a substance of most vigorous reaction, and is recommended for the after-treatment of wool, in order to render the same immune to alkalies. In wool dyeing, it also serves sometimes for after-treating black direct dyestufts, used for covering cotton and burs, in order to render them more stable to milling. Formiate of Chrome. Formiate of Chrome Cr- (HCOOje, is put upon the market as a pale green powder which is easily soluble in water. It is used in slubbing dyeing, in place of acetate of chrome for fixing mordant and Vigoureux dyestufts. Formic Acid. Formic acid, H . COOH, has for some time past been put upon the market at such a reduced price that its ready application in wool dyeing has become possible. In its concentrated state it is a colourless fluid of pungent smell which blisters the skin, freezes in a cold tempera- ture, melts at 47,5" F, and boils at 212° F. It can be mi.xed with water in any proportion, and is more easily volatile with steam than acetic acid. Having a milder reaction than sulphuric acid, formic acid is mostly used in wool dyeing in its place, and also as a substitute for acetic acid in dyeing with acid and developing dye- stufts which equalize wilh difficulty. It approaches, however, in its efficacy, more that of Chemicals and Tables. 171 sulphuric acid tlian that of the weaker acetic acid. Whilst from a purely chemical standpoint, 108 parts formic acid 85% are equivalent to 100 parts concentrated sulphuric acid and 252 parts acetic acid 50%, in practical dyeing about 150 parts formic acid 86 "o give the same result as 100 parts cone, sulphuric acid and yield, as regards the exhaustion of the baths, a better result than about 400 parts acetic acid 50%. Being easily oxidised, formic acid is also used instead of tartar or lactic acid for the production of chrome mordants. In this case about 2 parts formic acid 85% correspond to 3 parts lactic acid 50 "o, but its reducing power is not so great as that of the latter. Lastly, formic acid is used as a volatile acid in Vigoureux printing, as well as for acid miUing of woollen goods such as hats and felts, in combination with sulphuric acid. Formic acid is sold commercially in various concentrations. In the present work the formic acid referred to is an acid of 85%. The subjoined table shows the percentages of the commercial article. Specific Gravity of Formic Acid at 68° F. compared with Water of 39° F. (Richardson and Allaire.) Specific Gravity weight CH.O. % by Volume CH.Oa Specific Gravity "'oby Wright CH.Os CHjO, Specific Giavity ■•;« by weight CH.U, » 'o by Volume CH.O, 0,9983 0,00 1,0247 10 8,40 1,1425 60 56,13 1,0020 1 0,82 1,0371 ]5 12,80 1,1544 65 61,44 1,0045 2 1,64 1,0489 20 17,17 1,1656 70 66,80 1,0071 3 2,48 1,0610 25 21,73 1,1770 75 72,27 1,0094 4 3,30 1,0780 30 23,37 1,1861 80 77,67 ) 1,0116 5 4,14 1,0848 35 31,10 1,1954 85 88,19 1,0142 6 4,98 1,0964 40 35,90 1,2045 90 88,74 { 1,0171 7 5,81 1,1086 45 40,82 1,2141 95 94,48 1 1,0197 8 6,68 1,1208 50 45,88 1,2213 100 100,00 : 1,0222 9 7,55 1,1321 55 51,01 Fullers' Earth, Fullers' earth is impure clay (containing residue of decomposed silicates), of a greenish, yellowish, brownish to reddish colour. It has a greasy handle, and in water turns into a pulpy mass. It is used as addition in milling, and for washing goods which have been dyed with mordant and other dyestuffs which are liable to tend to superficial fixation and conse- quently are not fast to rubbing. For that purpose it should be free from sandy or gritty admixtures. Glauber's Salt. Glauber's Salt, Sulphate of Soda or Sodium Sulphate is mostly used in crystallized form, Na2S04 + lOHjO, more rarely as calcined Glauber's Salt, Na2S0j. The former are purer, more easily soluble, and can therefore be worked with greater facility. Glauber's salt must be free from all excess of sulphuric acid and iron. 9 parts calc. Glauber's salt are soluble in 100 parts cold water, 42 parts in 100 parts hot water. 100 parts crystallized Glauber's salt are equivalent to 44 parts calcined Glauber's salt. Glauber's salt is most extensively employed in wool dyeing as addition to acid dyebaths, in order to retard the absorption of the dyestuffs and thereby to promote the evenness and penetration of the colours. In our present work, crystallized Glauber's salt is always referred to. Glue. Glue is a nitrogenous animal substance mostly prepared from bones, and is put upon the market in yellowish-brown tablets. Glue is used in the improved Hydrosulphite-Ammonia vat Hoechst, for the purpose of retaining in solution, in colloidal form, the Indigo white liberated by ammonia, until it has combined with the wool fibre. Glue is also used in finishing light wool goods. 172 Chemicals and Tables. Glycerine. Glj'cerine, CsIIstOHla it put upon the market as a colourless or slightly yellowish viscous fluid of sweet taste, and has a density of 32','s— 48';j,'' Tw. It is used in Vigoureux printing as addition to the printing pastes, and eflects a better penetration of the colours into the tops. Hydrochloric Acid. Hydrochloric Acid or Muriatic Acid, HCI, is put upon the market as a colourless or slightly yellowish solution of various concentration. Being a weaker acid than sulphuric acid> it is sometimes used instead of the latter in dyeing in an acid bath. Moreover, it serves as a carbonizing agent, especially in carbonizing shoddy; also in combination with nitric acid for strippin,' rags; also for removing lime soap. The concentration of hydrochloric acid is shown in the following table: Specific Gravity of Hydrochloric Acid. (Lunge and Marchlewski.) Spec. Grav. 59" F at 39 • F Degrees Beauni£ Degree. Twaddell lUO parts by weight contain in chemically pure acid 1 litre contains kgs (Vacuum) Per Cent HCI Acid 20* Be HCI Acid 20* Be 1,000 0,0 0,16 0,49 0,0016 0,0049 1,005 0,7 1 1,15 3,58 0,012 0,036 1,010 1,4 2 2,14 (i,66 0,022 0,067 1,015 2,1 3 3,12 9,71 0,032 0,099 1,020 2,7 4 4,13 12,86 0,042 0,131 1,025 3,4 5 5,15 16,04 0,053 0,164 1 1,030 4,1 6 6,15 19,16 0,064 0,197 1.035 4,7 7 7,15 22,27 0,074 0,231 i 1,040 5,4 8 8,16 25,42 0,085 0,264 1,045 6,0 9 9,16 28,53 0,096 0,298 1,050 6,7 10 10,17 31,68 0,107 0,333 1,055 7,4 11 11, IS 34,82 0,118 0,367 1,060 8,0 12 12,19 37,97 0,129 0,403 1,0G6 8,7 13 13,19 41,09 0,141 0,438 1,070 9,4 14 14,17 44,14 0,152 0,472 1,075 10,0 15 1.-.,1G 47,22 0,163 0,508 i 1,080 10,6 16 10,15 .^0,31 0,174 0,543 j 1,085 11,2 17 17,13 53,36 0,18ti 0,579 1,090 11,9 18 18,11 56,41 0,197 0,615 1,095 12,4 19 19,06 59,37 0,209 0,650 1,100 13,0 20 20,01 62,33 0,220 0,686 1,105 13,6 21 20,97 65,32 0,232 0,722 1,110 14,2 22 21,92 68,28 0,243 0,758 1,115 14,9 2.'5 22,86 71.21 0,255 0,794 1,120 15,4 24 23,82 74,20 0,267 0,831 1,125 16,0 25 24,78 77,19 0,278 0,868 1,130 16,5 26 25,75 80 21 0,291 0,906 1,135 17,1 27 26.70 83,18 0,303 0,944 1,140 17,7 28 27,66 86,17 0,315 0.982 1,1425 18,0 28,14 87,66 0,322 1,002 1,145 18,3 29 28,61 89,13 0,328 1,021 1,150 18,8 30 29,57 92,11 0,340 1,059 1,152 19,0 29,96 93,80 0,345 1,075 1,155 19,3 31 80,55 9.5,17 0,353 1,099 1,160 19,8 32 81, .52 98,19 0,366 1,139 1,163 20,0 32,10 100,00 0,373 1,163 1,165 20,3 33 32,49 101,21 0,379 1,179 1,170 20,9 34 33,40 104,24 0,392 1,220 1,171 21,0 33,60 104,S2 0,394 1,227 1,175 21,4 35 34,42 107,22 0,404 1,260 1,180 22,0 36 35,39 110,24 0,418 1,301 1,185 22,5 37 36,31 113,11 0,430 1,340 ! 1,190 28,0 38 37,23 115,9S 0,443 1,380 1,195 23,5 89 38,16 1KS87 0,456 1,421 1,200 24,0 40 39,11 121,84 0,469 1,462 Chemicals and Tables. 173 Hydrosulphite. Hydrosulphite or Sodium Hydrosulpliite, NaaSzO,, is obtained by the reduction of sodium bisulphite with zinc dust, as an aqueous sokition largely used in vat dyeing, and for stripping slioddy or shades which are too deep. The following directions may be followed for the pro- duction of hydrosulphite (15° Be.) SS'/a" Tw. 40 litres bisulphite (38° Be.) 72° Tw. are diluted with 100 liters water; to these are added, whilst being stirred for '/•. hour, 6 kgs zinc dust mixed with 6 liters water. The whole is allowed to rest for 1 hour, after which 4 kgs caustic soda (lumps or leaves) are stirred into it, then left to settle and the clear liquid drawn off. It is rarely advisable to prepare Hydrosulphite solutions, for the process of reduction is liable to vary on a small scale, and strongly caustic solutions which affect the fibre injuriously, are obtained. It is more rational to use reliable preparations put upon the market, viz: Hydro- sulphite O Hoechst or the about six times stronger Hydrosulphite cone, powder, these contain no excess of alkali; their properties have been described on page 153. In addition to these hydrosulphites intended, in the first place, for vat-dyeing, the follow- ing preparations are also to be considered in wool dyeing: Hydrosulphite NF, consisting of a molecular mixture of formaldehyde hydrosulphite and formaldehyde bisulphite, NaHSOa .CHoO -f 2H20 -f NaHSOa . CH2O -f 2H2O, and containing about 44°/o NaHSOj. CH2O -|- 2H2O. It is produced by the reaction of formaldehyde upon sodium hydrosulphite and forms white solid lumps of a fine crystalline structure which, when protected from moisture and heat, will keep for months. With the addition of acetic acid, formic acid or bisulphite, it serves for stripping shoddy and piece goods. Hydrosulphite NF cone, is a new compound of formaldehyde hydrosulphite of high per- centage, which contains 88°;o NaHSOi .CH2O -f 2H2O; it is therefore twice as strong as Hydro- sulphite NF, and can be used in the same manner. Hydrosulphite AZ is a basic compound of zinc hydrosulphite formaldehyde, put upon the market as a white powder, and is used as a stripping agent. Lactic Acid. Lactic Acid, CH3CH(OH)COOH, is put upon the market as an aqueous solution, mostly containing 50°/o lactic acid, in which form it appears as a yellowish to brown syrup; it is often adulterated with sulphuric acid, sugar, dextrine, iron and other substances; its specific gravity is 1,178 (or higher) at 59° F. Owing to its low price and to the better utilization of the chrome baths which it brings about, lactic acid is very extensively used in place of tartar for mordanting wool; it is often used in the developing baths in conjunction with bichrome and serves for the better fixation of many chrome developing d3'estuffs. When dj'eing devel- oping colours upon an indigo ground, lactic acid is added to the developing bath in order to prevent the Indigo ground from being impaired by the bichrome. Lactoline. Lactoline, a double compound of lactic acid and lactate of potash, KC3H5O3 . CsHeOa, is put upon the market as a solution of 50°/o and serves, like lactic acid, as auxiliary mordant for the production of chrome mordants upon wool. Madder. Madder is a powder, which contains the roots of various madder plants, finely ground. It finds sometimes application for dyeing; but is at present more frequently used as a fer- mentation agent and as food for the microbes cultivated for the setting of fermentation vats. Magnesium Chloride. Magnesium Chloride, MgCls + BHaO, forms easily deliquescent colourless crystals, but is also put upon the market in a desiccated state free from water, as a white granular substance. Chemicals and Tables. 100 parts water dissolve cold 130 parts, warm 360 parts of the crystalline salt. Magnesium Chloride is sometimes used, similarly to aluminium chloride, for carbonizing, and is largely employed in finishing light wool goods, ai its hygroscopic character imparts to them a full heavy handle. Magnesium Sulphate. Magnesium Sulphate or Epsom Salt, MgSOj + TlIsO, forms colourless crystals which are easily soluble in water, and serves for finishing and weighting light woollen goods. Marseilles Soap. See Soap. Muriatic Acid. See Hydrocliloric Acid. Nitric Acid. Nitric Acid, HNOs, is put upon the market as a solution of various concentrations. In wool dyeing it is used for the produclion of yellow selvedges upon indigo dyed goods, and sometimes for stripping shoddy. Nitric acid serves for testing indigo, upon which it produces a pure yellow spot with a green rim. The percentage of nitric acid is seen from the follo- wing table: Specific Gravity of Nitric Acid. Specific Degrees 100 parls 59 contain at 1 F Specific Degrees If't) parts contain at 59° F Gravity Be gm HNO. gm NflOs Gravity Be gm HXO, gm N.O. 1,000 0,1 0,1 1,165 20,3 27,1 28,2 t 1,005 0,7 1,0 0,8 1,170 20,9 27,9 23,9 1,010 1,4 1,9 1,6 1,175 21,4 28,6 24,0 1,015 2,1 2,8 2,4 1,180 22,0 29,4 25,2 1,020 2,7 3,7 3,2 1,185 22,5 30,1 25,8 1,025 3,4 4,6 3,9 1,190 23,0 30,9 26.5 1,030 4,1 5,5 4,7 1,195 23,5 31,6 27,1 1,035 4,7 6,4 5,5 1,200 24,0 82,4 27,7 1,040 ."),4 7,3 6,2 1,205 24,5 33,1 28,4 1 1,045 6,0 8,1 7,0 1,210 25,0 33,8 29,0 1,050 6,7 9,0 7,7 1,215 25,5 34.5 29,6 1,055 7,4 9,8 8,4 1,220 26,0 35,3 30,2 1,060 8,0 10,7 9,1 1,225 26,4 36,0 30,9 1,065 8,7 11,5 9,9 1,230 26,9 36,8 31,5 1,070 9,4 12,3 10,6 1,235 27,4 37,5 32,2 1,075 10,0 13,1 11,3 1,240 27,9 38,3 82,8 1,080 10,6 13,9 12,0 1,245 28,4 39,0 33,5 1,085 11,2 14,7 12,6 1,250 28,8 39,8 34,1 1,090 11,9 15,5 13,3 1,255 29,3 40,6 34,8 1,095 12,4 16,3 14,0 1,260 29,7 41,3 35,4 1,100 13,0 17,1 14,7 1,265 30,2 42,1 36,1 1,105 13,6 17,9 15,3 1,270 30,6 42,9 36,7 1,110 14,2 18,7 16,0 1,275 31,1 43,6 87,4 1,110 14,9 19,4 16,7 1,280 31,5 44,1 38,1 1 1,120 15,4 20,2 17,3 1,285 32,0 45,2 88,7 1 : 1,1 2o 16,0 21,0 18,0 1,290 32,4 45,9 39,4 1,130 16,5 21,8 18,7 1,295 32,8 46,7 40,0 !,I3-'> 17,1 22,0 19,3 1,300 83,3 47,5 40,7 1,140 17,7 23,3 20,0 1,305 33,7 48,3 41,4 1,14.') 18,3 24,1 20,6 1,310 34,2 49,1 42,1 l.laO 18,8 24,8 21,3 1,316 34,6 49,9 42,8 \,V>0 19,3 25,6 21.9 1,320 35,0 50,7 43,5 1,160 19,8 26,4 22,6 1,325 35,4 51,5 44,2 Chemicals and Tables. 175 Specific Degrees 100 parts contain at 59" F Speci6c Degrees 100 parts 5S contain at p Gravitj- Be gin UNO, 1 gm N.O, Gravity Be gm HNO, gm N.Oj 1,330 35,8 52,4 44,9 1,430 43,4 72,2 61,9 ],335 36,2 53,2 45,6 1,435 43,8 73,4 62,9 1,340 36,6 54,1 46,3 1,440 44,1 74,7 64,0 1,345 37,0 54,9 47,1 1,445 44,4 76,0 65,1 1,350 37,4 55,8 47,8 1,450 44,8 77,3 06,2 i 1,355 37,8 56,7 48,6 1,455 45,1 78,6 67,4 1,360 38,2 57,6 49,4 1,460 45,4 80,0 68,6 1,365 38,6 58,5 50,1 1,465 45,8 81,4 69,8 1,370 39,0 59,4 50,9 1,470 46,1 82,9 71,1 1,375 39,4 60,3 51,7 1,475 46,4 84,4 72,4 1,380 39,8 61,3 52,5 1,480 46,8 86,0 73,8 1 1,385 40,1 62,2 53,1 1,485 47,1 87,7 75,2 1,390 40,5 63,2 54,2 1,490 47,4 89,6 76,8 1,395 40,8 64,2 55,1 1,495 47,8 91,6 78,5 1,400 41,2 65,3 56,0 1,500 48,1 94,1 80,6 1,405 41,6 66,4 56,9 1,505 48,4 96,4 82,6 1,410 42,0 67,5 57,9 1,510 48,7 98,1 84,1 1,415 42,3 68,6 58,8 1,515 49,0 99,1 84,9 1,420 42,7 69,8 59,8 1,520 49,4 99,7 85,4 1,425 43,1 71,0 60,8 ' Oleine. Oleine or, more correctly. Oleic acid, C17H33.COOH, is a by-product from the manu- facture of stearic acid, and in its pure state is a colourless oil which solidifies in a cold tem- perature and melts at 57° F. Oleine forms easily soluble alkali salts, and can therefore be easily removed after having been used for lubricating the wool in spinning. It is also employed for the production of soaps. It ought to be free from all substances which saponify with diffi- culty, especially from mineral oils and stearine. Oxalate of Ammonia. see Ammonium Oxalate. Oxalic Acid. Oxalic Acid, C204H) + 2H2O, is put upon the market as white crystals. It is soluble in the ninefold quantity of cold water, but easih* soluble in hot water. Oxalic acid is a strong acid, and is sometimes used instead of sulphuric acid. It is emploj-ed especially for dyeing logwood black and so-called "combination blacks" produced with logwood, black wool dyesluffs, iron and copper vitriol. It serves likewise as reducing agent, instead of tartar, in mordanting with chrome and alum, and is very serviceable for stripping alizarine shades which are too dark. Permanganate of Potash. see Potassium Permanganate. Peroxide of Hydrogen. Peroxide of Hydrogen, HjOs, is usually put upon the market as a solution of 3%, recently also of 30 "0. It is used for bleaching white wool goods, but its employment has become more restricted by that of the more stable and cheaper sodium peroxide which, when mixed with acidified water, supplies in a simple manner a solution of peroxide of hydrogen. 176 Chemicals and Tables. Phenolphtaleine. Phenolphtaleine is much used for analytical purposes, as an indicator: it is not coloured by acids but shows a deep red violet colour when coming into contact with alkalies. An alcoholic solution 1 : 100 is used for testing the alkalinitj- of the Hydrosulphite vat Hocchst. Potash. see Carbonate of Potash. Potash Alum. see Alum. Potassium Bicarbonate. see Carbonate of Potasli. Potassium Permanganate. Potassium Permanganate or Permanganate of Potash, KMnO*. forms dark red needles which have a peculiar metallic lustre; it is easily soluble in hot water and is sold commer- cially in very pure form. It is used in wool dyeing for bleaching, in which case the goods are first treated with potassium permanganate and then with sulphuric acid. Pyrolignite of Iron. PjTolignite of Iron is obtained by dissolving iron in pyrolignous acid (w-ool vinegar), or by double reaction of pyrolignite of lime upon iron vitriol, and is used as a mordant for fi.King alizarine dyestuffs in Vigoureux printing. Specific Gravity and Percentage of Solutions of pyrolignite of Iron at GVjt" F. Specific Degrees gni. FeiOj Specific Degrees gm. Fe,03 Specific Dcgre« gm. Fe,0, Gravity Beaunie in litre Gravity Beaume in litre Gravity Heaume in litre 1,274 31,0 190 1,179 21,9 125 1,088 11,7 60 1,266 30,3 185 1,172 21,2 120 1,081 10,7 55 1,258 29,5 180 1,165 20,3 115 1,074 9,9 50 1,250 28,8 175 1,158 19,6 no 1,067 9,0 45 1,242 2S,0 170 1,151 18,9 105 ; 1,060 8.0 40 1,235 27,4 165 1,144 18,2 100 i 1,053 ■^,1 35 1 1,223 26,7 160 1,137 17,4 95 1 1,046 6,1 80 1,221 26,1 155 1,130 16,5 90 ' 1,039 5,2 25 1,214 25,4 150 j 1,123 15,7 85 1,032 4,3 20 1,207 24,7 145 1,116 15,0 80 i 1,025 3,4 15 1 1,200 24,0 140 1,109 14,1 76 1,018 2.4 10 1,193 28,3 135 1 1,102 13,2 70 1,010 1,4 5 1,1S6 22,6 130 1,095 12,4 65 Sal Ammoniac. see Ammonium Chloride. Soap. Soap consists chiefly of neutral salt formed by fatty acid and alkali. Two kinds of soap must be distinguished: hard soaps which are soda soaps, and soft soaps which are potash soaps. As the latter cannot be treated with caustic salt (salted out), they usually contain impurities such as superfluous alkali, glycerine, etc., and are therefore not to be recommended for the purposes of wool dyeing. Even hard soaps contain sometimes injurious substances. A good soap for wool dyeing must be free from fi.xed alkali and unsaponified fat. As a rule. Chemicals and Tables. 177 the so-called Marseilles Soap obtained from pure olive oil and caustic soda, is used. Cheaper kinds of soap are manufactured from other materials, such as tallow, oieine, palm oil, linseed oil etc., and can be used for wool washing and milling if they are free from injurious alkali and unsaponified fats or oils and unsaponifiable substances. Considering the great sensitiveness of the wool fibre to free alkali, and the great dis- advantages accruing from unsaponifiable or unsaponified substances when precipitated upon the fibre, it is seldom advisable for a dyer to make the soaps, unless a constant chemical control of the raw materials used can be carried out, otherwise it is preferable to buy them from a reliable soap factory. Soap is used for washing and milling all kinds of wool and for dj'eing basic dyestuffs in the soap bath. A soap analysis can be made with sufficient accuracy for most practical purposes according to the following method: Water. A certain quantity of soap, say 3 grammes is mixed with about 10 grammes perfectly dry quartz sand in a porcelain dish, and the whole weighed- After adding a little alcohol to accelerate the evaporation of the remaining water, the mixture is continually stirred and dried until a constant weight is obtained. The loss indicated bj^ the difference in weight represents water. Fatty Acid. The following method is sufficient for all practical purposes: A quantity of soap, say 3 grammes accurately weighed, is dissolved in water in a porcelain dish. The fatty acid is then precipitated with an excess of normal sulphuric acid and melted with exactly 10 grammes pure and perfectly dry wax. The wax cake which easily separates on cooling, is rinsed in cold water and then dried, first with filter paper and then in the desiccator until a constant weight is obtained. Total Alkali. The filtrate obtained by the fattj' acid test is neutralized with normal soda lye and phenolphtaleine. The number of cc soda lye used, deducted from the number of cc normal sulphuric acid, shows the sum total of alkali, 1 cc normal sulphuric acid being equivalent to 0,031 grammes Na20. Another method is to titrate 100 cc soap solution containing 2—3 grammes soap direct with normal acid and Methyl Orange, until a red tinge appears, 1 cc normal acid is equal to 0,031 grammes NasO. Free Alkali, Qualitative Test. If a newly cut surface of the soap is touched with a few drops of mercury chloride solution, a brownish yellow to reddish brown colour will appear, according to the amount of free alkali. Glycerine. 20 — 25 grammes soap are dissolved with 100 cc water, then the fatty acid precipitated with sulphuric acid until acid reaction sets in, and removed with wax. The filtrate is neutralized with potash, evaporated till dry, finely powered and extracted with pure alcohol. The extracted solution is filtered into a glass of known tare and heated on a water bath or, better still, to 122 — 140° F., until constant weight is obtained The residue is glycerine. Unsaponified Fat. About 20—25 grammes of very finely powdered and dried soap are extracted with ligroine in the Soxhlet extraction apparatus for 3—4 hours, the ligroine evap- orated and the fat weighed. Traces of soap being soluble in ligroine, a portion ot the soap separated in the flask must be poured off, rinsed, and the corresponding correction be made: 100 cc ligroine dissolve 0,01 grammes soap. Soda. see Carbonate of Soda. Soda Lye. see Caustic Soda. Sodium Acetate. see Acetate of Soda. 121 e 178 Chemicals and Tables. Sodium Bichromate. Sfe Bichromate of Soda. Sodium Bisulphate. Sodium Bisulphate or Tartar Substitute, NaHSO, + HiO, is put upon market as colour- less crystals which are easily soluble in water. In solution 10 parts tartar substitute have the same effect as a mi.xture of 10 parts crj'stallized Glauber's salt and 4 parts cone, sulphuric acid. Tartar substitute is therefore used in the same manner as these, in dj'eing in an acid bath. It also serves sometimes as a carbonizing agent of a milder reaction than sulphuric acid. Tartar substitute is often adulterated with iron. Sodium Bisulphite. Sodium Bisulphite or Bisulphite is put upon the market either a sodium bisulphite crystals, NaHSOs, or as sodium pyrosulphite NaiSsOs, or which is mostly the case, in the form of solution of 64—72" Tw. It is used for the production of the hydrosulphite necessary for preparing the hj'drosulphite indigo vat, and in dyeing white, or bleaching of wool goods. The following table shows the percentage of sodium bisulphite solutions which, owing to a slight admixture of iron, generally have a yellowish tinge: Specific Gravity and Percentage of Solutions of Sodium Bisulphite at 59" F. 1 Speafic Degrees Per Cent Per Cent SpeciGc Degrees Per Cent Per Cent SO. Gravity Bcaume NaHSO. SO. Gravity Beaume NaHSO. 1,008 1 0,6 0,4 1,171 21 18,5 10,2 1,022 3 2,1 1,3 : 1,190 23 18,5 11,5 1,03S b 3,6 2,2 1,210 25 20,9 12,9 1,052 7 0,1 3,1 1,230 27 23,5 14,5 1,068 9 6,5 3,9 1,252 29 25,9 15,9 1,084 11 8,0 4,8 1,275 31 28,9 17,8 1,100 13 9,5 5,7 1,298 33 31,7 19,6 1,116 lo 11,2 6,8 1,321 35 34,7 22,5 i,v.n 17 12,8 7,8 1,346 37 38 23,6 ! l,ir.2 19 14,6 9,0 Sodium Borate. see Borax. Sodium Carbonate. see Soda. Sodium Chlorate. Sodium Chlorate, NaClOa, is put upon the market in the form of crystals, and is preferred to its corresponding potassium salt because of its greater solubility and cheapness. Sodium Chlorate must be stored with caution, as it is explosive when brought into contact with com- bustible material. 100 parts cold water dissolve 100 parts, 100 parts hot water dissolve H30 parts sodium chlorate. As an oxidizer which does not affect the shades, it is used where, under the influence of heat, the wool substance acts as a reducing agent, and the dyestutTs show a tendency to decompose, e. g. in steaming, and especiallj- in Vigoureux printing, as a preventative against the destruction of the dyestuffs. Sodium Chloride. see Common Salt. Chemicals and Tables. 179 Sodium Hydrosulphite. see Hydrosulphite. Sodium Hydroxide. see Caustic Soda. Sodium Peroxide. Sodium Peroxide, Na^Oo, forms a wiiite powder which is deliquescent and decomposes in the open air. IVIixed cold with diluted acid it dissolves forming peroxide of hydrogen. It is used for bleaching all kinds of woollen goods instead of the dearer and more unstable peroxide of hydrogen. Sodium peroxide must be kept with great caution in closed vessels, owing to its tendency "to fire". Sodium Phosphate. Sodium Phosphate, Na2HP04 + 12H.,0, 4 parts of which dissolve in 100 parts cold water, 100 parts in 100 parts hot water, forms crystals which decompose when exposed to air. On account of its weak alkaline reaction it is used for the even fixation of Dianil dye- stuffs in Vigoureux printing. Sodium Silicate. Sodium Silicate or Waterglass, Na-jSiiOa, is put upon the market as a thick aqueous solution, mostly of 72—77° Tw. Owing to its weak alkaline reaction it serves in dyeing Alkali Blues. Sodium Sulphate. see Glauber's salt. Sodium Thiosulphate. Sodium Thiosulphate, NajSaOs +5H2O, 102 parts of which are soluble in 100 parts cold water, forms coLurless crystals. In the presence of hydrochloric acid or sulphuric acid sodium thiosulphate decomposes, sulphurous acid being formed and very finely divided sulphur is separated. It is therefore used for dyeing Brilliant Green and Malachite Green upon "Sulphur Mordant". Spirits of Ammonia. see Ammonia. Starch. Starch (CeHioOsjn is a carbo-hydrate insoluble in cold water. On being heated with water starch begins to swell at about 140" F. and is transformed into so-called starch paste, which is used as an excellent thickening in Vigoureux printing. Of the various kinds of starch, such as wheat, rice, maize, potato-starch, the first named and the "burnt starch" obtained from it by roasting — in a lighter or darker colour, according to the degree of roasting — are those most used in Vigoureux printing. Roasting converts starch more or less into dextrine. As a thickening the lighter sorts of burnt starch are more profitable than the darker ones. In order to produce a starch thickening, the starch is mixed with water and heated whilst being continually stirred. It swells and thickens up to a certain point, when it grows thinner again. At that stage the heating must be stopped, and the paste allowed to cool. The thickenings suitable for printing purposes contain 12— 20''o starch. 180 Chemicals and Tables. Sulphate of Alumina. see Aluminium Sulphate. Sulphate of Copper. Sulphate of Copper, Copper Vitriol or Bluestone, CuSO« + 5HjO, forms blue crystals. 40 parts are soluble in 100 parts cold water, 203 parts in 100 parts hot water. It is used in wool dyeing for the production of mordants for logwood, and is employed in combination with copperas, logwood and black Azo dyestufls, for the so-called Combination Black. Copper vitriol is used moreover for developing certain developing dyestufls. Sulphate of Iron. Sulphate of Iron or Iron Vitriol, Copperas, FeSOi + 7 IhO, forms bluish green crystals which easily turn brown when exposed to air. GO parts sulphate of iron dissolve in 100 parts cold water, 333 parts in 100 parts hot water. In wool dyeing it is used as a mordant for logwood black, and is mostl}' employed in conjunction with sulphate of copper. It serves mainly for the production of the so-called Combination Black, obtained from logwood and black Azo dj-estufts. Sulphate of Magnesia. see Magnesium Sulphate. Sulphate of Soda. see Glauber's Salt. Sulphocyanide of Ammonia. see Aminoium Sulphocj'anide. Sulphur. Sulphur, S, is put upon the market either in sticks or in the form of a fine powder, as flowers of sulphur. It burns, forming at the same time sulphurous acid gas which has a bleaching effect on the animal fibre. For that reason it is used for bleaching wool goods. Sulphuric Acid. Sulphuric Acid, HjSOi, is put upon the market as a heavy, thick, slightly coloured liquid of various concentrations, mostly as an acid of 168° Tw. (to this acid all references in the present work apply). Concentrated sulphuric acid combines with water under generation of heat, forming so-called hydrates; consequently in diluting concentrated sulphuric acid, caution must be exercised by alwaj's stirring it slowlj' into cold water (water must never be poured on it). Sulphuric acid is most extensively used in wool dj'eing with acid and chrome developing dyestufts, generally in conjunction with Glauber's salt. Likewise, as auxiliary in mordanting wool with bichromate of potash, either alone or in combination with lactic acid etc. Sulphuric acid is also largely employed for carbonizing wool and wool goods; furthermore as a milling agent (acid milling) for wool goods, felts and hats, and, lastly, for stripping shoddy. The strength of sulphuric acid can be determined by the aid of the following table: Chemicals and Tables. 181 S p e c i f i c Gravity of Sulpli uric A cid. (Lunge and Isler.) Specific "§ 1 100 parts by weight 1 litre contains of Specific "1 T3 100 pans by weight 1 litre Gravity 59" F P5 H contain of chemically chemically Gravity 59* F Cq contain of chemically chemically at 39" F (Vacciium) Q pure acid pure acid at 89" F (Vacuum) Q Q pure acid pure acid Per Cent H.SO. kg H.bO, Per Cent HsSO. H,bO. 1,000 0,09 0,001 1,280 31,5 56 36,87 0,472 1,005 0,7 1 0,83 0,008 1,285 32,0 57 37,45 0,481 1,010 1,4 2 1,57 0,016 1,290 32,4 58 38,03 0,490 1,015 2,1 3 2,30 0,023 1,295 32,8 59 38,61 0,500 1,020 2,7 ■ 4 3,03 0,031 1,300 33,3 60 .39,19 0,509 1,025 3,4 5 3,76 0,039 1,305 33.7 61 39,77 0,519 1,030 4,1 6 4,49 0,046 1,310 34,2 62 40,35 0,528 1,035 4,7 7 5,23 0,054 1,315 34,6 63 40,93 0,538 1,040 5,4 8 5,96 0,062 1,320 35,0 64 41,50 0,648 1,045 6,0 9 6,67 0,071 1,325 35,4 65 42,08 0,557 1,050 6,7 10 7,37 0,077 1,330 35,8 66 42,66 0,567 1,055 7,4 11 8,07 0,085 1,335 36,2 67 43,20 0,577 1,060 8,0 12 8,77 0,093 1,340 36,6 68 43,74 0,586 1,065 8,7 13 9,47 0,102 1,345 37,0 69 44,28 0,596 1,070 9,4 14 10,19 0,109 1,350 37,4 70 44,82 0,605 1,075 10,0 15 10,90 0,117 1,3.55 37,8 71 45.35 0,614 1,080 10,6 16 11,60 0,125 1,360 38,2 72 45,88 0,624 1,085 11,2 17 12,30 0,133 1,366 38,6 73 46,41 0,633 1,090 11,9 18 12,99 0,142 1,370 39,0 74 46,94 0,643 1,095 12,4 19 13,67 0,150 1,375 39,4 75 47,47 0,663 1,100 13,0 20 14,35 0,158 1,380 39,8 76 48,00 0,662 1,105 13,6 21 15,03 0,166 1,385 40,1 77 48,53 0,672 1,110 14,2 22 15,71 0,175 1,390 40,5 78 49,06 0,682 1,115 14,9 23 16,36 0,183 1,395 40,8 79 49,.59 0,692 1,120 15,4 24 17,01 0,191 1,400 41,2 80 50,11 0,702 1,125 16,0 25 17,66 0,199 1,405 41,6 81 50,63 0,711 1,130 16,5 26 18,31 0,207 1,410 42,0 82 51,16 0,721 1,135 17,1 27 18,96 0,215 1,415 42,3 83 51,66 0,7.30 1,140 17,7 28 19,61 0,223 1,420 42,7 84 62,16 0,740 1,145 18,3 29 20,26 0,231 1,425 43.1 85 52,63 0,750 1,150 18,8 30 20,91 0,239 1,430 43,4 86 53,11 0,7.59 1,155 19,3 31 21,55 0,248 1,435 43,8 87 53,59 0,769 1,160 19,8 32 22,19 0,257 1,440 44,1 88 54,07 0,779 1,165 20,3 33 22,83 0,266 1,446 44,4 89 54,56 0,789 1,170 20,9 34 23,47 0,275 1,450 44,8 90 55,03 0,798 1,175 21,4 35 24,12 0,283 1,455 45,1 91 55,50 0,808 1,180 22,0 36 24,76 0,292 1,460 45,4 92 55,97 0,817 1,185 22,5 37 25,40 0,301 1,465 45,8 93 56,43 0,827 1,190 23,0 38 26,04 0,310 1,470 46,1 94 56,90 0,837 1,195 23,5 39 26,68 0,319 1,475 46,4 ^ 57,37 0,846 1,200 24,0 40 27,32 0,328 1,480 46,8 57,83 0,856 1,205 24,5 41 27,95 0,337 1,485 47,1 97 58,28 0,865 1,210 25,0 42 28,58 ' 0,346 1,490 47,4 98 58,74 0,876 1,215 25,5 43 29,21 0,355 1,495 47,8 99 59,22 0,885 1,220 26,0 44 29,84 0,364 1,500 48,1 100 59,70 0,896 ' 1,226 26,4 45 30,48 0,373 1,505 48,4 101 60,18 ' 0,906 1 1,230 26.9 46 31,11 0,382 1,510 48,7 102 60,66 0,916 1,235 27,4 47 31,70 0,391 1,515 49,0 103 61,12 0,926 1,240 27,9 48 32,28 ( 0,400 1,520 49,4 104 61,59 0,936 1,245 28,4 49 32.86 0,409 1,525 49,7 105 62.06 ' 0,946 > 1,250 28,8 50 33,43 1 0,418 1,530 .50,0 106 62,53 0,957 1,255 29,3 51 34,00 0,426 1,535 50,3 107 63,00 0,967 1,260 29,7 52 34,57 0,435 1,540 50,6 108 63,43 0,977 1,265 30,2 53 35,14 0,444 1,545 50,9 109 63,85 0,987 1,270 30,6 54 35,71 0,454 1,550 51,2 110 64,26 0,996 1,275 31,1 55 36,29 0,462 1,555 51,5 111 64,67 1,006 182 Chemicals and Tables. .•_ = 100 parts by 1 lilrr "1 = 100 parti by 1 litre Spctific ; Gravity 1 &9* F 5 •3 1 weight chemically contains of chemically Specific Gravity 59 • F i2 weiifht CODUin of chemically contains of chemically i at - - 5 8 1 pure aciJ pure acid at J M pure acid pure arid ' 3ii° F ' (Vat-uum) u ^ 39»F (Vacuum) 1 Per Cent kB Per Cent kg Q H.SO, H.SO. Q U.SO. HtSO. 1,560 51,8 112 65,08 1,015 1,750 61.8 150 81,56 1,427 1 1,5(55 52,1 113 65,49 1,025 1 1,755 62,1 151 82,(X) 1.439 ; : 1,570 52,4 114 65,90 1,035 : 1,7(H) 62,3 152 82,44 1,451 , 1,575 52,7 115 66,30 1,044 1,765 62,5 153 82,88 1,463 1 1,580 53,0 116 (i6,71 1,054 i 1,770 62,8 154 83,32 1,475 1,585 53,3 117 67,13 1,064 1,775 63,0 155 83,iK) 1,489 1,590 53,6 118 67,59 1,075 1,780 63,2 156 84,50 1,504 1,595 53,9 119 68,05 1,085 1,785 63,5 157 85,10 1,519 1 1,60() 54,1 120 68,51 1,096 1,790 63,7 158 85.70 1.534 ; 1,605 54,4 121 68,97 1,107 i 1,795 64,0 159 86,30 1,549 l,filO 54,7 122 69,43 1,118 f 1,800 64,2 160 86,90 1,564 1,615 55,0 123 69,89 1,128 1,805 64.4 161 87,60 1,581 1,620 55,2 124 70,32 1,139 1,810 64,6 162 88.30 1,598 1,625 55,5 125 70,74 1,150 1,815 64,8 163 89,05 1.621 1,6») 55,8 126 71,16 1,160 i 1,820 65,0 164 90,05 1,639 1,635 56,0 127 71,57 1,170 ' 1,821 90,20 1,643 ' 1,640 56 3 128 71,99 1,181 1,822 65,1 90,40 1,(U7 : 1,645 56,6 129 72,40 1,192 i 1,823 90,(K) 1,651 ],()50 56,9 130 72,82 1,202 1,824 65,2 90,80 1,656 1 ,t)55 57,1 131 73,23 1,212 ! 1,825 165 91,00 1,661 1,660 57,4 132 73,64 1 222 1 1,826 65,3 91,25 1,666 1 1.665 57,7 133 74,07 1*233 1,827 91,50 1,671 1,670 57,9 134 74,51 1,244 1,828 65,4 91,70 1,676 1,675 58,2 135 74,97 1,256 1,829 91,90 1,681 1,680 58,4 136 75,42 1,267 1,830 166 92,10 1,685 1,685 58,7 137 75,86 1,278 1,831 65,5 92,30 1,690 1,690 58,9 138 76,30 1,289 1,832 92,52 1,695 1,695 59,2 139 76,73 1,301 1,833 65,6 92,75 1,700 1,700 59,5 140 77,17 1,312 1,834 93,05 1,706 1,705 59,7 141 77,60 1,323 1,835 65,7 167 93,43 1,713 1,710 60,0 142 78,04 1,334 1,836 93,80 1,722 1,715 ()(),2 143 78,48 1,346 1,837 94,20 1,730 1,720 60,4 144 78,92 1,357 1,838 65,8 94,()0 1,739 1,725 60,6 145 79,36 1,369 1,839 95,00 1,748 1,730 (;(),9 146 79,80 1,381 1,840 65,9 168 95,60 1,759 1,735 61,1 147 80,24 1,392 4,8405 95,95 1,765 1,740 61,4 148 80,68 1,404 1,8410 97,00 1,786 1,745 61,6 149 81,12 1,419 1,8415 97,70 1,799 Sulphurous Acid. Sulphurous Acid SO2, a gas of pungent smell, is produced when sulphur burns in air, and is used for bleaching woollen goods. Sulphurous acid can be obtained as a watery solution for bleaching purposes by the reaction of hydrochloric or sulphuric acid upon sodium bisul- phite. Finally, sulphurous acid has recently been put upon the market as a compressed liquid in steel cylinders, in which form it is used for bleaching in a vacuum. Tannin. Tannin or Tannic acid, CnHio09 + 2HsO, a product obtained from various plants, is put upon the market in several forms, viz: as needles, pale yellow to brown powder, or as a frothy extract. 100 parts cold water dissolve l-"i parts tannin, in hot water it is still more soluble. Tannin is employed in wool dyeing as addition to the dyebath in dyeing with Ali- zarine Red upon alum mordant, whereby the fastness to bleeding is enhanced. It is also sometimes used for after-treating acid colours, in order to increase the fastness to washing, and, further, together with tartar emetic, for the treatment of wool so as to render the same insensitive to the attraction of acid dyestufls. (Compare page 155). Chemicals and Tables. 183 Tartar. Tartar or Bitartrate of Potash, KC,H,0„, is put upon the market as crystals, or in powder form; it does not readily dissolve in water: 0,5 parts tartar are dissolved in 100 parts cold water, 6,9 parts in 100 parts hot water. It is most extensively used as an auxiliary in mordantmg wool with chrome, alumina, iron and copper-salts, and serves as reducin- a-ent for these salts. For the same purposes it is nowadays largely replaced by cheaper ingredie^nts such as lactic or formic acid etc. Tartar was formerly employed, and is still sometimes used in dyeing with Eosine, as a weak acid. Tartar Emetic. Tartar Emetic, KlSbOJC.H^Os + '/.H.O, 7 parts of which dissolve in 100 parts cold water, and o3 parts in 100 parts hot water, is employed in wool dyeing for fixing tannin on the wool fibre ior resist purposes. In place of tartar emetic other antimony compounds may also be used. Tartaric Acid. Tartaric Acid, GH^lOHjslCOOH),, is put upon the market as colourless crystals, 115 parts of which are soluble in 100 parts cold water. Tartaric acid is used in Vigoureux printincr for fixing acid dyestuffs. " Tartar Substitute. see Sodium Bisulphate. Tournant Oil. Tournant Oil, a cheaper sort of olive oil, is sometimes used for oiling (lubricating) yarns, more frequently in Vigoureux printing as an addition to the printing pastes, in order to effect a more thorough penetration. Turkey Red Oil. Turkey Red Oil is obtained by the reaction of sulphuric acid upon castor oil, olive oil, tournant oil, and other kinds of oil, and by subsequent neutralization of the generated sulpho acids with ammonia or soda. It is used in wool dyeing as addition to the dyestuffs employed in Vigoureux printing in order to effect a more thourough penetration. Urine. Urine, putrid urea, is still sometimes used in wool washing as addition to the wash hquors. Its effect is based on the presence of ammonium carbonate generated by the putre- faction and fermentation of the urea contained in it. Water. Water is of paramount importance in washing, dyeing, bleaching and finishing, in short, in all operations employed in the manufacture of woollen goods. The success of the whole manufacture often depends on its purity. The purest water — distilled water — may be used for all purposes. Seeing, however, that it would be too costly and consequently impracticable to obtain sufficient quantities of distilled water, it is necessary to adapt ordinary water to the various purposes of the trade. Condensed water, which can easily be collected in all dye- works, and may be used for dissolving dyestuffs, and other purposes of a more delicate nature IS very suitable for all purposes. Rain water is equally good if not charged with mechanical impurities, or when these have been removed by filtration. Other kinds of water, especially river or well water, have in many cases to be specially purified. Owing to the fact that these waters, in trickling through the ground, have 184 Chemicals and Tables. come into contact with the earth and the minerals ot which it is composed, they contain more or less large quantities of mineral substances in solution, which are mostly composed of car- bonates, sulphates, chlorides, silicates, nitrates of calcium, magnesium, potassium, sodium, aluminium and iron. Of these the carbonates and sulphates of calcium and magnesium are the impurities met with most frequently and in the largest quantities, and their presence, more than that of all others, imparts to the water a larger or smaller degree of hardness, i. e. the property to disintegrate soaps added to the water; or to form boiler incrustations, contrarj- to soft water which does not react in the same manner or only to a very slight degree. Of the last named salts the sulphates are pretty easily soluble and do not change themselves nor the property of the water in boiling. The degree of hardness produced bj* them is therefore called permanent hardness. Carbonates, which dissolve only with the utmost difficulty in water, become comparatively easily soluble if the water contains carbonic acid as bicarbonates. If the free carbonic acid is driven oflf by boiling the water, the insoluble carbonates are precipitated and can be removed by filtration and thus be made ineflective. The degree of hardness produced by the presence of Carbonates in solution is called temporary hardness. The sum total of permanent and temporary hardness is called the total degree of hardness. According to the quantitj- of salts in solution in the water, the degree of hardness is determined by the gradual addition of normal soap solution, until vigopous shaking causes the soap lather to stand. Water is therefore treated for its degree of hardness in the following manner: Total Degree of Hardness. 100 cc water are filled into a glass-stoppered cylinder of about 200 cc capacity. To this, some normal soap solution is gradually added until the lather formed when shaking the cylinder remains standing above the liquid for i) minutes. If the water shows more than 12° hardness, 10 cc of the liquid are diluted with 100 cc distilled water, and then tested as described above. The consumed number of cc soap solution indi- cates, according to the table below, the total degree of hardness of the water. Permanent Hardness. 500 cc of the sample to be tested are boiled for 15 minutes. If any salts are precipitated in boiling, they are filtered, and the solution filled up again to 500 cc with distilled water. Of this liquid 100 cc are poured into a glass-stoppered cylinder, and the test then carried out as for the total degree of hardness. The temporary hardness is found by the difference between the total and perinanent degrees of hardness. Table for determining the Hardness of Water. 1 German German German i German 1 cc Soap degrees of cc So.ip degrees of 1 cc Soap degrees of ' cc Soap degrees of 1 Hardness 1 Hardness Hardness 1 Hardness ! M 0.5 15,9 3,7 26,2 6,5 37,4 9,7 4,2 0,7 16,6 3,9 26,9 6,7 38,1 9,9 5,0 0,9 17,0 4,0 27,6 6.9 38,4 10,0 5,4 1,0 1 17,4 4,1 28,0 7,0 38,7 10,1 5,8 1,1 17,8 4,2 28,4 7,1 39,4 10,3 6,6 1,3 ! 18,1 4.3 29,1 7,3 40,1 10,5 7,4 1,5 18,5 4,4 29,8 7,5 40,8 10,7 8,2 ' 1,7 18,9 4,5 30,0 7,7 41,5 10,9 9,0 1,9 19,7 4,7 ! 31,1 7,9 41,8 11,0 9,4 2,0 20,4 4,9 1 31,3 8,0 41,9 11.1 9,8 2,1 20,8 5,0 ! ! 31,5 8,1 42,4 11,2 10,5 2,3 21,2 5,1 j 32,7 8,3 42.8 11,3 1 11,3 2,5 21,9 5,3 33.9 8,5 43,1 11,4 12,1 2,7 22,6 5,5 1 34,0 8,8 43,4 11,5 12.8 2.9 23,3 5,7 1 34,7 8,9 43,7 11,6 13,2 3,0 24,0 5,9 35,0 9,0 44,0 11,7 13,6 3,1 24,4 6,0 35,3 9,1 44,4 11,8 14,3 3,3 24,8 6,1 36,0 9,3 ' 44,7 11,9 15,1 3,5 25,5 6,3 ' 36,7 9,5 46,0 12,0 Chemicals and Tables 185 German degrees of hardness indicate milligrammes of lime, CaO, (or the equivalent of magnesia etc.) in 100 grammes water, so that, e. g. water of 6° hardness contains 6 grammes CaO in 100 liters water. French degrees of hardness refer to milligrammes of calcium carbonate, CaCOa in 100 grammes water. English degrees of hardness indicate grains of CaCOa in 1 gallon water. Comp arative Table of German, E nglish and Franc h Degrees of Har dness. German English French German English French German English French 0,5 0,62 0,9 .3,92 4,9 7,0 8,5 10,63 16,18 0,56 0,7 1,0 4,0 5,0 7,17 8,8 11,0 15,75 0,7 0,87 1,26 4,48 5,60 8,00 8,96 11,20 16,00 0,8 1,0 1,43 4,5 5,63 8,06 9,0 11,25 16,08 1,0 1,25 1,79 4,8 6,00 8,60 9,5 11,88 17,0 1,12 1,41 2,0 6,0 6,25 8,95 10,0 12,50 17,9 1 1,5 1,88 2,69 5,04 6,30 9,00 10,08 12,6 18,0 1,68 2,10 3,0 5,5 6,88 9,«5 10,4 13,0 18,6 2,0 2,5 3,58 5,6 7,00 10,00 10.5 13,13 18,78 2,24 2,8 4,0 6,0 7,5 10,74 10,64 13 3 19,0 2,4 3,0 4,3 6,5 8,13 11,64 11,0 13,75 19,68 2,1 3,13 4,48 6,7 8,38 12,U0 11,2 14,00 20,0 2,8 3,5 5,0 7,0 8,75 12,55 11,5 14,38 20,69 3,0 3,75 5,37 7,28 9,10 13,43 11,76 14,07 21,0 3,2 4,0 5,73 7,84 9,8 14,00 12,0 16,0 21,5 3,36 4,2 6,0 8,0 10,0 14,80 1 3,5 4,38 6,27 8,4 10,5 15,0 The hardness of water — apart from causing boiler incrustation which involves not only a quicker wearing out of the boiler, but also an increased consumption of fuel (an incrustation of 3 mm in thickness requires 10% more fuel), — becomes also in other wa3'S disagreeably apparent in dyeing. Hard water necessitates a considerably increased consumption of soap in washing wool and wool goods (e. g. for 1000 liters water of 5°, about 1 ko. soap is con- verted into lime soap and therefore lost) moreover, the lime soaps formed by the reaction of the lime- and other salts upon the soap, are deposited in washing etc. as viscous, greasy, not easily removable substances, on the goods, imparting to them an unpleasant handle and causing the colours to be fixed loosely in dyeing. Lastly, a considerable loss is caused in the dyebath if these salts contained in the water precipitate mordants and dyestuffs, especially mordant dyestuffs in the form of lime lakes. Besides the above discussed calcium and magnesia salts, dissolved iron salts often exercise an injurious influence in dyeing, by dulling the shade of many dyestuffs; finally mechanical impurities also obviously interfere with the success of dyeing and finishing. For these reasons it becomes necessary to procure pure and soft water for washing, dyeing, rinsing and finishing of all kinds of wool goods. Accordiiig to its employment water can be purified in different ways, and special apparatus, constructed on different principles have been devised to meet these requirements. Installations for purifying the water, though apparently expensive, will mostly pay for themselves in a short time, and cannot be too urgently recommended. It would exceed the scope of this work to enter into details regarding the various apparatus and methods for the purification of water. We therefore confine ourselves to the remark that for purifying the water intended for feeding boilers, soda lye and lime are generally used. For washing purposes water is satis- factorily purified by an addition of soda and by boiling, allowing it to settle afterwards, and then using the clear solution. In most cases a weak alkaline reaction of the water, so purified, does no harm, but can easily be neutralized by adding some acetic acid until a neutral reaction sets in. Water used for dyeing and mordanting should be as soft as possible, especially for mordant and lake -forming dyestuffs. It can be purified with soda in the same manner as that to be used for washing, and is neutralized until a weak acid reaction sets in. In some cases, e. g., in dyeing with Alizarine Red on alumina mordant, the presence of lime in water is an advantage. Water containing iron must on no account be used in dyeing and in washing 12ale 186 Chemicals and Tables. delicate shades. For rinsing, water sliould be as free as possible from calcium and iron salts, but must have no alkaline reaction, as, e. g., goods rinsed with such water are very liable to lose in strength by wet steaming. Waterglass. see Sodium Silicate. Woad. Woad, derived from the woad plant, is put upon the market either in leaves or lumps, in which latter form particularly it is still used for setting and working the fermentation vats; this is not done, however, on account of the indigo it contains, but principally to feed the vat with bacteria which cause the fermentation, and which are present in woad in the form of perennial spores. It is therefore advisable to add woad to fresh fermentation vats which are to be set with artificial indigo, unless old fermentation vat liquors are available, which accel- erate the fermentation. Zinc Dust. Zinc Dust, a mixture of finely divided zinc and some oxide of zinc, is put upon the market as a fine grey powder and serves as a reducing agent for preparing hydrosulphitt from sodium bisulphite. --a®c— Table of the Tension of Steam at Temperatures from lO-t" F. (40 » C.) Upwards. Temperature Tension in mm in Atmo- spheres Pressure on ID cm in Kos Temperatm-e Tension in mm in Atmo- spheres Pressure on ID cm in Kos + 40° 54,906 0,072 0,07465 + 105" 906,41 1,193 1,23236 45 71,391 0,094 0,09706 110 1075,37 1,415 1,46219 ! 50 91,982 0,121 0,12505 115 1269,41 1,673 1,72592 55 117,478 0,154 0,15972 120 1491,28 1,962 2,02755 60 148,791 0,196 0,20323 125 1743,88 2,294 2,37098 65 186,945 0,246 0,25417 130 2030,28 2,671 2,76037 70 233,093 0,306 0,31692 135 2353,73 3,097 3,20013 75 288,517 0,380 0,39227 140 2717,63 3,575 3,69400 80 364,643 0,466 0,48217 145 3125,55 4,112 4,24050 85 438,041 0,570 0,58877 150 3581,23 4,712 4,86904 90 525,450 0,691 0,71440 155 . 4088,56 5,380 5,55881 95 633,778 0,834 0,86168 160 4651,62 6,120 6,32434 100 760,000 1,000 1,03330 Measures and Weights. A.' The Metrical System. 1 metre (m) = 10 decimetres (dm) = 100 centrimetres (cm) = 1000 millimetres (mm). 1 litre (1) = 1000 cubic centimetres (ccm). 1 ton (t) = 1000 kilogrammes (kg). 1 kilogram (kg) = 1000 grammes (g). B. English Measures and Weights. 1 yard = 3 feet= 0,9144 m. 1 foot = 12 inches. 1 inch = 2,540 cm. 1 gallon = 4 quarts = 8 pints = 32 gills = 4,5436 litres. 1 pound (lb) = 16 ounces (oz) = 453,59 g. 1 ton = 20 hundredweight (cwt) = 2240 lbs. = 1016 kg. 188 Conversions. Table showing Percentage of colour and corresponding quantity in grammes per 100 kilo goods, and lbs oz and grains per 100 lbs goods. 1 lb = 16 oz = 7000 grains = 454 grammes; 1 oz = 437'/t grains; 1 gramme = 15,43 grains. 0,001 = '/iooo°o, 0,01 = 'Aoo'o; 0,10 = '/io%. per 100 kao per 100 lbs "~' per 100 kilo per 100 lbs per 100 kilo per 100 n>( •;. grammes lb oz grains •/. grammes lb oz grains ' •;. grammes lb oz grains ; 0,001 1 7 0,29 290 4 280 0,66 660 10 245 0,002 2 14 ' 0,30 300 4 350 0,67 670 10 316 0,003 3 21 ' 0,31 310 4 420 0,68 6«0 10 385 0,004 4 28 1 0,32 320 5 53 0,69 690 11 18 0,005 ^> 36 i 0,33 330 5 12.1 0,70 700 11 88 0,006 6 42 , 0,34 340 5 193 0,71 710 11 158 0,007 7 49 0,35 360 5 263 0,72 • 720 11 228 0,008 8 56 ' 0,36 360 5 333 , 0,73 730 11 298 0,009 9 63 0,37 370 5 403 0,74 740 11 368 0,01 10 70 0,38 380 6 35 1 0,75 750 12 — 0.02 20 140 \ 0,39 390 6 105 0,76 760 12 70 0,03 30 210 i 0,40 400 6 175 0,77 770 12 140 0,04 40 280 • 0,41 410 6 245 0.78 780 12 210 0.05 50 360 0.42 420 6 315 1 0,79 790 12 280 0,06 60 420 0,43 430 6 385 1 0,80 800 12 350 0,07 70 63 0,44 440 18 0.81 810 12 420 0,08 80 123 0,45 450 88 0,82 820 13 53 0,09 90 193 0,46 460 158 0,83 830 13 123 0,10 100 263 0,47 470 228 0,84 840 13 193 0,11 110 333 , 0,48 480 298 0,85 860 13 263 0,12 120 403 0,49 490 363 0,86 860 13 333 0,13 130 2 35 0,50 500 8 — 0,87 870 13 403 0.14 140 i 106 1 0,51 510 8 70 0.88 880 14 35 0,15 150 2 176 1 0,62 520 8 140 0,89 890 14 105 0,16 160 2 246 1 0,58 530 8 210 0,90 900 14 175 1 0,17 170 2 316 ! 0,54 540 8 280 0,91 910 14 215 0,18 180 2 386 0,65 sec 8 360 0,92 920 14 315 0,19 190 3 18 0,56 560 8 420 0,93 930 14 385 0,20 200 3 88 0,57 570 9 53 0,94 940 15 18 0,21 210 3 158 0,58 580 9 123 0,95 950 15 88 0,22 220 3 229 0,59 590 9 193 0,96 960 15 158 0,23 230 3 299 0,60 600 9 263 0,97 970 15 228 0,24 240 3 369 0,61 610 9 333 0,98 980 15 298 ! 0,25 250 4 — 0,62 620 9 403 i 0,99 990 15 368 0,26 260 4 70 0,63 630 10 35 I 1 1 kilo 1 0,27 270 4 140 0,64 640 10 105 ! 0,28 280 4 210 0,65 650 10 175 Conversion of Kilogrammes into lbs English. Kilo- Approximate Kilo- Approikiiuatc cwis qrs lbs OZ conversion grammes cwts qrs lbs ot conversion •nto into lbs 1 into into lbs 1 2 3V. 2V6 40 8 4 3 88 1 2 4 6>/. 4V5 60 3 26 3V4 110>/4 3 6 9»^ 6»,8 60 20 4'/, 132 4 8 13 8'/.. 70 1 14 6V4 154 5 11 OV'4 11 80 2 8 6 176 6 13 3'/f 13V5 I 90 3 2 6'/. 198 7 15 7 15V« 100 3 24 7 220'/, 8 17 10'* 17'/8 , 200 3 3 20 15 441 9 19 13'/, 19Vb 300 5 3 17 6 661'/, 10 22 0>/4 22V. 400 7 3 13 14 882 20 1 16 IV. 44'/. ' 500 9 3 10 5 1102'/, 30 2 10 2';. 66>/8 ! : Conversions. 189 Conversion of grammes into oz and grains. 1 grms = 15,43285 gis 51 grms = 787,04 grs = 1 02 350 grs 2 „ ^ 30,86470 „ 52 „ = 802,48 „ = 1 ., 365 „ 3 „ = 46,29705 „ 53 „ = 817,91 „ = 1 „ 380 „ 4 „ = 61,72940 „ 54 „ = 833,34 „ = 1 „ 395 „ 5 „ = 77,16175 „ 55 „ = 848,77 „ = 1 „ 411 „ 6 „ = 92,59410 „ 56 „ = 864,21 „ = 1 ,. 427 „ 7 „ = 108,02645 „ 57 „ = 879,64 „ = 2 „ 005 „ 8 „ = 123,45880 „ 58 „ = 895,07 „ = 2 „ 020 „ 9 „ = 138,89115 „ 59 „ = 910,50 „ = 2 „ 036 „ 10 „ = 154,32350 „ 60 „ = 925,94 „ — 2 051 „ 11 „ = 169,75685 „ 61 „ = 941,37 „ = 2 „' 066 „ 12 „ = 185,18820 „ 62 „ ^ 956,80 „ = 2 „ 082 „ 13 „ =200,62056 „ 63 „ = 972,23 „ = 2 „ 097 „ 14 „ =216,05290 „ 64 „ = 987,67 „ = 2 „ 113 „ 15 „ = 231,48525 „ 65 „ = 1003,10 „ ^ 2 „ 128 „ 16 „ =246,91760 „ 66 „ = 1018,53 „ = 2 „ 144 „ 17 „ =262,34995 „ 67 „ = 1033,96 „ = 2 ^ 159 „ IS „ =277,78230 „ 68 „ = 1049,89 „ = 2 , 174 „ ly „ = 293,21465 „ 69 „ = 1064,83 „ = 2 „ 190 „ 20 „ = 308,64700 „ 70 „ = 1080,26 „ = 2 „ 205 „ 21 „ = 324,07935 „ 71 „ = 1095,69 „ = 2 „ 220 „ 22 „ =339,51170 „ 72 „ = 1111,12 „ = 2 „ 236 „ 23 „ =354,94405 „ 73 „ = 1126,56 „ = 2 „ 252 „ 24 „ = 370,37040 „ 74 „ = 1141,99 „ = 2 „ 267 „ 25 „ =385,80875 „ 75 „ = 1157,42 „ = 2 „ 282 „ 26 „ =401,24110 „ 76 „ = 1172,85 „ = 2 „ 298 „ 27 „ = 416,67345 „ 77 „ = 1188,29 „ = 2 „ 313 „ 28 „ =432,10580 „ 78 „ = 1203,72 „ = 2 329 „ 2S^^I 00 grms := 437'/2 grms ^ 1 oz 79 „ = 1219,15 „ = 2 „ 344 „ ■29 g ms = 447,53 grs = ] oz 10 grs 80 „ = 1234,58 „ = 2 , 360 „ 30 „ = 462,97 „ = 1 „ 25 „ 81 „ = 1250,02 „ = 2 , 375 „ 31 „ = 478,40 „ = 1 ,. 41 „ 82 „ = 1265,45 „ = 2 390 „ 32 „ = 498,83 „ = ] ,. 56 „ 83 „ = 1280,X8 „ = 2 , 406 „ 38 „ = 509,26 „ = ] ., 72 „ 84 „ = 1290,31 „ = 2 421 „ 34 „ = 524,69 „ = ] „ 87 „ 85 „ = 1311,74 „ = 2 ', 487 „ 35 „ =540,13 „ = „ 102 „ 86 „ = 1327,18 „ = 3 , 015 „ 36 „ = 555,56 „ = „ 118 „ 87 „ = 1342,01 „ = 3 , 030 „ 37 „ =570,99 „ = „ 133 „ 88 „ = 1368,04 „ = 3 , 045 „ 38 „ =586,42 „ = ,. 149 „ 89 „ = 1373,47 „ = 3 , 061 „ 39 „ = 601,86 „ = ] » 164 „ 90 „ = 1388,91 „ = 3 , 076 „ 40 „ =617,29 „ = „ 180 „ 91 „ = 1404,34 „ = 3 , 092 „ 41 „ =632,72 „ = „ 195 „ 92 „ = 1419,77 „ = 3 , 107 „ 42 „ =648,15 „ = I „ 210 „ 93 „ = 1435,20 „ = 3 , 123 „ 43 „ =663,59 „ = L „ 226 „ 94 „ = 1450,64 „ = 3 , 138 „ 44 „ =679,02 „ =] „ 241 „ 95 „ = 1466,07 „ = 3 , 154 „ 45 „ = 694,45 „ = I „ 257 „ 96 „ = 1481,50 „ = 3 , 169 „ 46 „ = 709,88 „ = I „ 272 „ 97 „ = 1496,93 „ = 3 , 184 „ 47 „ = 725,32 „ = „ 288 „ 98 „ = 1512,37 „ = 3 , 200 „ 48 „ = 740,75 „ = I „ 303 „ 99 „ = 1527,80 „ = 3 , 215 „ 49 „ = 766,18 „ = I „ 319 „ 100 „ =- 1548,23 „ = 3 , 230 „ 50 „ = 771,61 „ = 1 „ 334 „ 190 Conversions. Conversion of lbs into Kilogrammes. 1 lbs ]•> gl- = 0,454 Ko, 21 lbs Engl 9,526 Ko. 41 lbs Engl 18,598 Ko. 2 0,907 „ ''i2 „ ,, = 9,979 „ 42 „ „ = 19,051 , 3 I = 1.361 „ 23 , ,, = 10,43.3 „ 43 „ „ = 19,505 , 4 „ , = 1,814 y 24 „ „ = 10,886 „ 44 „ , = 19,958 „ 5 „ = 2,26s 25 „ ^ = 11,340 „ 45 „ II = 20,412 „ 6 „ = 2,722 26 „ = 11,794 „ 46 1, = 20,866 „ 7 = 3,175 ^ 27 . „ = 12,247 „ 47 II 1, = 21,319 , « I ^ = 3,629 jj 28 , „ = 12,701 „ 48 „ „ = 21.773 „ 9 „ 1 = 4,082 „ 29 „ „ = 13,154 „ 49 „ „ = 22,226 „ 10 „ , = 4.536 „ 30 „ „ = 13.6P8 „ 50 ^ „ = 22,680 , 11 „ = 4,990 31 „ = 14,062 „ 60 II „ = 27,216 , 12 „ = .5,448 ^, 32 „ ^ = 14,515 „ 70 II ,1 = 31,752 „ 13 „ — -5,897 33 „ = 14,969 „ 80 II = 36,288 „ 14 . 1 = 6,350 ^ 34 „ „ = 15,422 „ 90 y „ = 40,824 , 15 „ = fi,80l ^^ 35 „ ^ = 15,876 „ 100 „ „ = 45,:^60 „ 16 „ = 7,2.58 ,, 36 „ ,^ - 16,3:i0 „ 21 lO „ ,1 = 90,720 „ 1" .. = 7,711 ,, 37 „ J, = 16,78 5 „ 300 ,1 II = 136,080 „ 1'^ „ = 8,165 ,1 38 „ ^ = 17,237 „ 400 II ^ = 1-1,440 „ la „ = 8.618 ,, 39 „ ,j = 17,690 „ 5(11) = 226,800 , 20 „ ', = 9,07-2 „ 40 „ » = 18,144 „ Conversion of grains, oz, lbs, qrs, cwts, into Kilogrammes. 7,716175 grains = 0,5 grammes 15,4323.50 „ = 1,0 „ 154,323500 „ = 10,0 437'/« grains = 1 oz = 28,3 grammes 16 oz =1 lbs = 463,59 „ 28 lbs = 1 qrs = 12 kilos 712 grammes 4 qrs = 1 cwt = 1 12 lbs = 50 kilos 803 grammes 20 cwts = 1 ton = 1016,06 kilos. 1 oz = 437'/! g rs = 28,3502 grammes 2 „ = 875 = 56,6991 3 „ = l.^r2'/2 , = 85,0486 4 „ = 1750 = 113,3981 5 „ = 2187'/s , = 141,7482 1 6 „ = 2625 = 170,0972 1 7 „ = 3062 '/j = 198,4466 8 „ = 3500 = 226,7962 1 9 „ =3937'/s = 255,1457 10 „ = 4375 = 283,49,52 II 11 „ = 4812'/j = 311,8448 12 „ = 5250 , =340,1942 II 13 „ = 5687 , =368,5438 14 „ = 6125 , =396,8933 II 15 „ = 6562 '/» , = 425,2428 16 „ = 7000 , =453,5923 " 1 milligramme = 0,001 grammes 1 centigramme 0,01 1 decigramme 0,1 1 decagramme = 10,000 1 hectogramme = 100,000 1 kilogramme = 1000,000 Conversions. 191 Conversion of grammes per litre into ounces per gallon. |rm. ?rms, Per litre 1 = 2 = 3 = 4 = 5 = 7 = 8 = 9 = 10 = 11 = 12 = 13 = 14 = 15 = 16 = 17 = 18 = 19 = 20 = 30 = 40 = 50 = 60 = 70 = 80 = 90 = 100 = 200 300 400 500 Per gall. 4"/2 grms. 9 13'/2 „ 18 „ 22 V2 „ 27 36 40'/2 „ 45 49'/s „ 54 58 V^ „ 63 67 '/s „ 72 76'/2 „ 81 85'/, „ 90 135 180 225 270 315 360 405 460 900 1350 1800 2250 '/90Z V2 '/« ■/3 '/i % 2 2V6 2'/3 2'/2 2^/3 2-'^/<. 3 3Vo 3'/3 5 6-/3 :10 : 11^/3 : 13'/3 : 15 : 16^'3 -- 33 73 50 : 66-''/3 : 83 Vs „ = 2 lbs l'/3 oz. = 3 „ 2 „ „ = 4 „ 2V „ ., = 5 „ 3'/3 „ Fluid Measures. pints quarts gallons litres 2 = 1 8 = 4 = 1 = 4,543 1 Imp. gallon = 8 pints = 32 gills = 160 oz = 4 = kil. 540 grms. 1 „ = 4 „ = 20 „ =0= „ 0,67 „ In English works 2 noggins = 1 gill (10 fl. oz.) 2 gills = 1 pint In Scotch works 4 gills = 1 pint (of 5 fl. oz. each) (20 fl. oz) 1 U. S. gallon = 3,785 litres 1 Imp. „ = 4,5436 litres = 4543 cubic centimetres 1 „ water =10 lbs Engl. 1000 Imp. gallons = 10015 lbs Engl. = 4543 kilo 210 „ water = 1 ton = 35,943 cubic feet 1 1 litre = 100 centilitres 1 hectolitre - 10 decalitres ,, = 277 '/< cubic inch. = 0,16 cubic feet = 10 lbs 1 Imp. pipe = 572,48 litres 1 U. S. pipe = 476,94 „ = 1 cubic decimetre = 1,76 Imp. pint - 2,114 U. S. = 100 litres. pints. 192 Conversions. Conversion of gallons, pints and gills into lbs and oz. 1 100 gallon - 10 lbs gallons - 1000 „ 1 2 3 4 pint = I'li lbs pints = 2'/j „ „ = 3'/, ,. » = 5 5 6 7 „ = 7>/2 „ 8 » = 10 1 pint - 1 quart 2 pint5 = 2 gills = 4 „ -- l'/4lbs 2"/. „ 1 gallon 4 quarts 8 pints — 32 „ _ 10 „ Conversion of litres into gallons and pints. Litres Gallons Pints Gills 1 =: 1 3,0430 2 = 3 2,0864 3 = 5 1,1296 4 = 7 0,1728 5 — S 3,2160 6 — 1 2 2,2592 7 = 1 4 1,3024 8 zr 1 fi 0,3456 9 = 1 • 7 3,3888 10 = 2 1 2,4320 11 =; 2 3 1,4762 12 = 2 5 0,5184 13 = 2 fi 3,5616 14 = 3 2,6048 Litres Gallons Pints Gills 15 = 3 2 1,6480 16 ^ 3 4 0,6912 17 =7 3 5 3,7344 18 - 3 7 2,7776 19 : 4 1 1,S208 20 4 u,sii40 21 4 4 3,9072 22 .--. 4 6 2,9604 23 = 5 1,9936 24 = 6 2 1,0368 25 = 5 4 0,0800 50 ^ 11 0,1600 75 ^ 16 4 0,2400 100 = 22 0,:i200 Conversion of Cubic Centimetres into English Measures. 1 cubic centimetres = 17 minims. 2 ^ 34 3 51 4 „ 08 or 1 draci m 8 mil ims 5 — 85 „ 1 25 6 J, =; 102 ,. I 42 7 J, 1^ 119 „ 1 59 ^ 8 J, = 136 „ 2 drach ms 16 , 9 )l ^ 153 2 33 , 10 )I = 170 ',', 2 ", 50 ^ 20 — 340 „ 5 „ 40 30 » = 510 „ 1 ounce drachm '30 m 40 1) = 680 ., 1 ., 3 ,. 20 50 II = 850 , M 1 ,. 6 „ 10 60 II — 1020 , 2 1 70 — 1190 , ." "^ ',', 3 „ 50 80 II = 1360 , „ 2 „ 6 40 90 » ~ 1530 , ,, 3 „ 1 30 100 »l = 1700 , ,. 3 ., 4 ., 20 1000 „ = 1 litre '34 n uid ounces nearlj', r 1'/. pint-!. Conversions. 193 1 Imp. gallon 2 Imp. gallon; 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 20 30 Conversion of gallons into litres. = 4,5430 litres = 9,0872 = 13,6308 ^ 18,1748 = 22,718 = 27,2616 = 31,8052 = 36,3488 = 40,8924 = 45,436 = 90,872 = 136,308 40 Imp. gallons 60 60 70 80 90 100 200 300 400 500 1000 181 227 272, 318 363; 408, 454, : 1363 1817; 2271, 4543,i ,744 litres ,180 ,616 ,052 ,488 924 ,360 720 080 440 800 600 Water quantities: 34,65 69,31 277 Vi 2,218 '/s cubic inches gallons = v:4 = 2V2 = 10 = 80 = 0361 = 62,5 lbs 1 pint 1 quart 1 gallon 1 bushel 1 cubic inch 1 „ foot =: 1,728 1 „ „ = 6,25' 1 cylindrical foot = 4,893 1 cubic yard = 168,264 \', 1 ton of water -^ 35,76 cubic feet = 224 Gallons 1 bushel of water would fill a box 12" X 12" X 15»/r' } peck „ „ „ 8" X 8" X 8V 1 gallon „ „ „ 6" X 6" X 73 ,« ,„ 1 q"^""' >' „ „ 4" X 4" X 473" Water occupies the least space when at 4" C. or 39" F Conversion of Metres into Yards 1 metre = 2 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 200 300 400 500 1,0936 = 2,187 = 3,281 = 4,374 = 5,468 - 6,562 = 7,655 - 8,749 = 9,843 = 10,936 = 21,873 = 32,809 = 43,745 = 54,682 = 65,618 = 76,554 = 87,491 = 98,427 = 109,363 = 218,727 = 328,090 = 437,453 =: 546,816 Yards Conversion of Yards into Metres 1 yard 2 3 4 5 6 7 9 10 20 30 40 50 00 70 80 90 100 200 300 400 500 = 0,91439 Metres ; 1,8288 = 2,7472 = 3,6576 = 4,5720 = 6,4864 = 6,4008 ; 7,3152 ^ 8,2296 = 9,1440 r 18,2880 -- 27,4320 = 36,5760 = 45,7200 = 54,8640 : 64,0080 -- 73,1520 -- 82,2960 : 91,4400 - 182,8800 - 274,3200 - 365,7600 457,2000 13Ie 194 Decimal Measul-es. Decimal Measures. Metre Denominations Equivalents in the standard of Canada cubic metres litres Imp. gallons and decimal parts of same kilolitre 1 'J'" /lOUO '/lOOOO '/lOOOOO 1000 100 10 1 '/.o 220,2 U 22,0244 2,2024 0,-2202 0,0220 0,0022 centilitre . How to determine the capacity of a square dye-vessel. What is tlie capacity of a square dye-vessel if it is for instance 8x3x3 feet? Determine the cubic content and then multiply bj' 6,26 as a cubic foot of water contains 6,25 gallons. 1 gallon of water equals 10 lbs therefore 1 cubic foot of water equals 62';s lbs or 1000 oz and 446,4 gallons equal 4464 lbs. Dimensions of the dye-vessel. 8 feet long 3 „ wide 3 „ high or 8 X 3 X 3 = 72 cubic feet X 6,25 gallons = 446,4 gallons. Comparison of tlic Theimoinctcr-Divisions. 195 Comparison of the Thermometer-Divisions. Celcius Reaumur Fahrenheit Celcius Reaumur Fahrenheit Celcius Reaumur Fahrenheit + 100 + 80 + 212 + 53 + 42,4 + 127,4 + 6 + 4,8 + 42,8 99 79,2 210,2 52 41,6 125,6 5 4 42 98 78,4 208,4 51 40,8 123,8 4 3,2 39,2 97 77,6 206,6 50 40 122 3 2,4 87,4 96 76,8 204,8 49 89,2 120,2 2 1,6 35,6 95 76 203 i 48 38,4 118.4 1 0,8 33,8 94 75,2 201,2 47 37,6 116,6 32 93 74,4 199,4 46 36,8 114,8 -1 -0,8 30,2 92 73,6 197,6 45 36 113 2 1,6 28,4 91 72,8 195,8 44 3,52 111,2 3 2,4 26,6 90 72 194 43 34,4 109,4 4 3,2 24,8 89 71,2 192,2 42 38,6 107,6 5 4 23 88 70,4 190,4 41 32,8 105,8 6 4,8 21,2 87 69,6 188,6 40 82 104 7 5,6 19,4 86 68,8 186,8 39 31,2 102,2 8 6,4 17,6 85 68 185 38 80,4 100,4 9 7,2 15,8 ' 84 67,2 183,2 87 29,6 98,6 10 8 14 83 66,4 181,4 36 28,8 96,8 11 8,8 12,2 [ 82 65,6 179,6 35 28 95 12 9,6 10,4 81 64,8 177,8 34 27,2 93,2 18 10,4 8,0 80 64 176 33 26,4 91,4 14 11,2 6,8 79 63,2 174,2 32 25,6 89,6 15 12 5 78 62,4 172,4 31 24,8 87,8 16 12,8 3,2 77 61,6 170,6 30 24 86 17 13,6 1,4 76 60,8 168,8 29 28,2 84,2 18 14,4 - 0,4 75 60 167 28 22,4 82,4 19 15,2 2,2 74 59,2 165,2 27 21,6 80,6 20 16 4 78 58,4 163,4 26 20,8 78,8 21 16,8 5,8 72 57,6 161,6 j 25 20 77 22 17,6 7,6 71 56,8 159,8 24 19,2 75,2 28 18,4 9,4 70 56 158 23 18,4 73,4 24 19,2 11,2 69 55,2 156,2 22 17,6 71,6 25 20 13 68 54,5 154,4 21 16,8 69,8 26 20,8 14,8 67 53,6 152,6 20 16 68 27 21,6 16,6 66 52,8 150,8 19 15,2 66,2 28 22,4 18,4 65 52 149 18 14,4 64,4 29 23,2 20,2 64 51,2 147,2 17 13,6 62,6 30 24 22 63 50,4 145,4 16 12,8 60,8 31 24,8 23,8 62 49,6 143,0 15 12 59 32 25,6 25,6 61 48,8 141,8 14 11,2 57,2 38 26,4 27,4 60 48 140 13 10,4 55,4 34 27,2 29,2 59 47,2 138,2 12 9,6 58,6 35 28 31 58 46,4 186,4 11 8,8 51,8 36 28,8 82,8 57 45,6 134,6 10 8 50 37 29,6 34,6 56 44,8 132,8 9 7,2 48,2 38 30,4 36,4 55 44 131 8 6,4 46,4 39 31,2 89,2 54 48,2 129,2 5,6 44,6 40 82 40 Calculation of: "C in "R multiply by 4, divide by 5, "C in "F „ „ 9, „ ,. 5, add 32, "R in "C „ „ r,, „ „ 4, "R in "F „ „ 9, „ „ 4, add 32, °F in "R subtract 32, nuiltiply by 4, divide by 9, °F in "C „ 82 „ „ 5, „ „ 9. — a®c— ronipnrison n! specific Giaviiy with degrees Bi- ami Tw. Comparison of specific Gravity with degrees B6 and Tw. sj». Gr. at 15* degrees B6 degrees Twaddell sp. Gr. at 15" degrees Bt degree. Twaddell tp. Gr. at 15* degrees Bt degrees Twaddell 1,000 1,290 32,4 58 1,580 53,0 116 1,005 0,7 1 1,295 32,8 59 j 1,585 53,3 117 1,010 1,4 2 1,300 33,3 60 1,590 53.6 118 1,015 2,1 3 1,305 33,7 61 1,595 53,9 119 1,020 2,7 4 1,310 34,2 62 1.600 54,1 120 1,025 3,4 5 1,315 34,6 63 1,605 64,4 121 1,030 4,1 6 1,320 35,0 64 1,610 64,7 122 1,035 4,7 7 1,325 35,4 66 1,615 55.0 123 1,040 5,4 8 1,330 35,8 66 1,620 55,2 124 1,045 6,0 9 1,335 36,2 67 1,625 55,5 125 1,050 6,7 10 1,340 36,6 68 1,630 55,8 126 1,055 7,4 11 1,345 37,0 69 1,635 56,0 127 1,060 8,0 12 1.350 37,4 70 1,640 56,3 128 1,065 8,7 13 1,355 37,8 71 1,645 56,6 129 1,070 9,4 14 i 1,360 38,2 72 1,650 56,9 130 1,075 10,0 15 1,.365 38,6 73 1,655 67,1 131 1,080 10,6 16 1,370 39,0 74 1,660 57,4 132 1,085 11,2 17 1,375 39,4 75 1,665 57,7 133 1,090 11,9 18 1,380 39,8 76 i 1,670 57,9 134 1,095 12,4 19 1,386 40,1 77 1,675 58,2 135 1,100 13,0 20 1,390 40,5 78 1,680 58,4 136 1,105 13,6 21 1,395 40,8 79 1,685 58,7 137 1,110 14,2 22 1,400 41,2 80 1,690 58,9 138 1,115 14,9 23 1,405 41,6 81 1,695 59,2 139 1,120 15,4 24 1,410 42,0 82 1,700 59,5 140 1,125 16,0 25 1,415 42,3 S3 1,705 59,7 141 1,130 16,5 26 1,420 42,7 84 1,710 60,0 142 1,135 17,1 27 1,425 43,1 85 1,715 60,2 143 1,140 17,7 28 1,430 43,4 86 1.720 60,4 144 1 1,145 18,3 29 1,435 43,8 87 1.725 60,6 146 1,150 18,8 30 1,440 44,1 88 1,730 60,9 146 1,155 19,3 31 1,445 44,4 89 1,735 61,1 147 1,160 19,8 32 1,460 44,8 90 1.740 61,4 148 1,165 20,3 33 1,455 45,1 91 1,745 61,6 149 1,170 20,9 34 1,460 45,4 92 1,750 61.8 160 1,175 21,4 35 1,465 46,8 93 1,765 62,1 151 1.180 22,0 36 1,470 46,1 94 1,760 62.3 152 1,185 22,5 37 1,475 46,4 95 1,765 62,5 153 1,190 23,0 38 1,480 46,8 96 1,770 62.8 154 1,195 23,5 39 1,485 47,1 97 1,775 63,0 155 1,200 24,0 40 1,490 47,4 98 1,780 63,2 156 1,205 24,5 41 1,495 47,8 99 1,785 63,5 157 1,210 25,0 42 1,500 48,1 100 1,790 63,7 15S 1,215 25,5 43 1,505 48,4 101 1,795 64,0 159 1,220 26,0 44 1,510 48,7 102 1,800 64,2 160 1,225 26,4 45 1,515 49,0 103 1,805 64,4 161 1,230 26,9 46 1,520 49,4 104 1,810 64,6 162 1,235 27,4 47 1,525 49,7 105 1,815 64,8 163 1,240 27,9 48 1,530 50,0 106 1,820 65,0 164 1,246 28,4 49 1,635 50,3 107 1,825 65,2 165 1,250 28,8 60 1,540 60,6 108 1,830 65,5 16'; 1,255 29,3 51 1,545 50,9 109 1,835 65,7 167 1,260 29,7 52 1,550 51,2 110 1,840 65,9 168 1,265 30,2 53 1,555 51,5 111 1,845 66,1 169 1,270 30,6 54 1,560 51,8 112 1,850 66,3 170 1,275 31,1 55 1,565 52,1 113 1,855 66,6 171 1,280 31,5 56 1,570 52,4 114 ^ 1,860 66,7 172 1,285 82,0 57 1,675 52,7 115 i 1,865 67,0 173 Index. Acetate of Ammonia 161. Acetate of Chrome 161. Acetate of Lime 162. Acetate of Soda 162. Acetic Acid 163. Acid Alizarine Black 92, 94, 130, 131. Acid Alizarine Blue 88, 130, 131, 140. Acid Alizarine Blueblack 90, 106, 130, 131. Acid Alizarine Brown 82, 130, 131. Acid Alizarine Darkblue 88, 130, 131. Acid Alizarine Green 90, 130, 131. Acid Alizarine Grenade 82, 130, 131. Acid Alizarine Grey 52, 90, 121, 130, 131. Acid Alizarine Red 82, 130, 131. Acid Alizarine Violet 86, 130, 131. Acid Alizarine Yellow 80, 98, 130, 131. Acid Cerise 58, 121. Acid Dyestuffs 113. Acid Green 70, 122. Acid Green solution 70, 122. Acid Magenta 58, 121. Acid Maroon 58, 121. Acid Rosamine 56, 121. Acid Violet 58, 60, 121. After-chroming process 128. Alizarine Blue 104, 106, 140. Alizarine Brown 102, 135, 140. Alizarine Claret 102, 135, 140. Alizarine Darkblue 104, 140. Alizarine Green 108, 140. Alizarine Orange 98, 131, 132, 135, 140. Alizarine Red 80, 100, 102, 180, 131, 132, 13.5, 140. Alizarine Yellow 80, 98, 100, 127, 130, 131, 132, 13.5, 140. Alizarine Direct Blue 54, 66, 121, 122, 140. Alizarine Direct Green 54, 121, 140. Alizarine Direct Violet 66, 122. Alkalies, Fastness to, 11. Alkaline Blue 64, 113, 123. Alkaline Violet 64, 123. Altering the Properties of Wool 115. Alphyl Blueblack 50, 121. Alum 164. Alum Developing 132. Aluminium Chloride 164. Aluminium Sulphate 164. Alum Mordant 134. Amaranth 28, 121. Amido Black 48, 121. Amidonaphtol Black 48, 121. Amidonaphtol Red 36, 124. Ammonia 165. Ammonium Acetate 161. Annnonium Carbonate 166. Ammonium Chloride 166. Ammonium Oxalate 166. Ammonium Sulphocyanide 166. Anthraquinone-dyestufls 113. Anthrol Blue 104, 135, 140. Archil Substitute 3s. Auramine 74, 125. Aurophenine 16, 121. Azo Acid Black 44, 46, 121. Azo Acid Blue 40, 121. Azo Acid Brown 34, 121. Azo Acid Carmine 121. Azo Acid Crimson 36. Azo Acid Magenta 36, 121. Azo Acid Red 36, 121. Azo Brown 121. Azo Dyestuffs 113. Azo Flavine 18. Azo Yellow 18, 121. 198 Index. B. Basic Colours 114, 125. Bichromate of Potash 166. Bichromate of Potash Developing 130. Bichromate of Soda 166. Black Blue 62. Bleu de Lyon 62, 122. Blue 122. Boiler Incrustation 18.5. Borax 167. Brilliant Crimson 28, 121. Brilliant Croceinc 22, 121. Brilliant Dianil Red 30, 121. Brilliant Green 78, 125. Brilliant Orange 20, 121. Brilliant Rubine 2S. British Gum 167. Burnt Lime 167. c. Calcium Hypochlorite 167. Carbo-hydrates 168. Carbonate of Ammonia 167. Carbonate of Potash 167. Carbonate of Soda 168. Carbon Black .50, 121. Caustic Lime 169. Caustic Lime Test 12. Caustic Soda 169. Ceruleine 90, lOS, 130, 131, 1.3.5, 140. China Blue 62, 121. Chinoline Yellow, 14, 120. Chloride of Alumina 164. Chloride of Ammonia 166. Chloride of Magnesia 173. Chloride of Tin 169. Chlorinating of Wool 155. Chromaline 169. Chrome Acetate 161. Chrome Alum 169. Chrome Black 91, 130, 132. Chrome Brown 84, 130. Chrome Developing Dyestufl's 114, 128, 140. Chrome Mordant 136. Chromic Acid 170. ChroiTiium Acetate 170. Chromic Acid Mordant 138. Chromogene 84, 130. Chromotrope 38, 86, Chromotrope Blue 86 Chrysoidine 74, 125. Chrysoine, 18, 121. Claret Red 32, 121. 8, 90, 121, 132. 130. Cloth Blue 62, 122. Cloth Red 32, 121. Cloudiness in piece-goods 118. Colour Spots or Stains 117, 118. Common Salt 170. Comparative strength of Paste and correspon- ding Powder Dyestufl's 116. Copper Black 84, 132. Copper Blue 84, 132. Copper Red ^i, 132. Copper Vitriol 170. Cotton Blue 62, 121. Cotton, dyeing in an acid bath 4. Cotton Light Blue 62, 121. Cresotine Yellow 16, 120. Cyanine 66, 122. D. Decrease of acid 11 'J. Delta Purpurine 30, 121. Determining of the Hardness of Water 184. Developing of Dyestuffs 128. Developing with Alum 132. Developing with Bichromate of Potash 130. Developing with Copper Sulphate 132. Developing with Fluoride of Chrome 131. Dianil Brown 34, 121. Dianil Crimson 30. Dianil Claret Red 32, 121. Dianil Dyestufl's 113. Dianil Fast Brown 34, 121. Dianil Fast Red 30, 80, 121, 130, 131. Dianil Orange \K 121. Dianil Pure Yellow 16, 120. Dianil Red 30, 121. Dianil Violet 32, 121. Dianil Yellow 16, 120. Dissolving of Dyestufl's 115. Dry steaming 7. Dyeing in an acetic acid bath 113, 124. Dyeing in an acid bath 113, 120. Dyeing in an acid bath and developing with metal salts 114, 127. Dyeing in an alkaline bath 113, 123. Dyeing in a neutral bath 114, 125. Dyeing upon previously mordanted material 114, 134. E. Efl'ect threads, staining of 4. Entering goods into the bath 120. Eosine 72, 124. Epsom Salt 170. 199 Equalizing of acid colours 117, 120. Erythrosine 72, 124. F. Fast Acid Blue 54, 121. Fast Acid Eosine 56, 121. Fast Acid Green 70, 122. Fast Acid Magenta 56, 121. Fast Acid Phloxine 56, 121. Fast Acid Red 55, 121. Fast Acid Violet .54, 56, 121. Fast Blue 52, 121. Fast Blue soluble 52. Fast Brown 34, 121. Fast Claret 32, 121. Fast Darkblue 44, 52, 121. Fast Mordant Blue 88, 106, 130, 131. Fastness to alkalies 11. Fastness to carbonising 8. Fastness to light 6. Fastness to milling 11. Fastness to perspiration 12. Fastness to rubbing 5. Fastness to soda 10. Fastness to steaming (decatising) 7. Fastness to stoving 8. Fastness to street-dirt II. Fastness to washing 10. Fastness to water 9. Fast Red 28, 121. Fast Yellow 18, 121. Fermentation Vats 144. Flavazine 14, 120. Flavophosphine 14, 125, Fluoride of Chrome 170. Formaldehyde 170. Formiate of Chrome 170. Formic Acid 170. Full Blue 62. Fullers' Earth 171. Galleine 106, 140. Glaubers' Salt 171. Glue 171. Glycerine 172. Guernsey Blue 02, 122. H. Hardness of Water 184. Hoechst Vat 148. Hydrochloric Acid 172. Hydrogen Peroxide 175. Hydrosulphite 149, 153, 173. Hydrosulphite Vats 147. I. Imperial Blue 121. Increase of Glaubers' Salt 119. Indigo 108, 114, 151. Indigo Paste 152. Indigo Substitute 68, 122. Indigo Vat 152. Induline-dj'estuffs 113. Insolation 7. Insufficient penetration 118. K. Knitteriness 117. Lactic acid 136, 173. Lactoline 137, 173. Lanoglaucine 96. Laundry Blue 122 Level dyeing of acid colours 117, 120. Lime Acetate 162. Longitudinal streaks 118. M. Madder 173. Magenta 125. Magnesium Chloride 173. Magnesium Sulphate 174. Malachite Green 78, 125. Maroon 58, 121. Marseilles Soap 174. Measures and Weights 161. Metanil Yellow 121. Methyl Alkaline Blue (;4, 123. Methyl Blue 62, 121. Methylene Heliotrope 76, 125. Methylene Violet 125. Methylene Yellow 74, 125. Methyl Violet 76, 78, 125. Milling Blue 54, 121. Milling Scarlet 22, 121. Milling with cold water 9. Milling with hot water 9. Milling Yellow 14, 120. Mordant dyestuffs 114. Mordanting of wool 136. Mordant Yellow 80, 98, 130, 131, 135, 140. Muriatic Acid 174. 200 N. Naphtalene Blue 40, 42, 121. Naphtaline Dark Blue 42, 121. Naphtalene Green 70, 122. Naphtol Red 28, 121. Naphtol Rubine 32, 121. Naphtol Yellow 14, 120. Nassovia Scarlet 22, 121. Navj' Blue 62. Neutral Blue 60, 121. Neutral Violet 60, 121. New Coccine 121. New Magenta 76, 125. Nigrosine 52, 121. Nitric Acid 174. Nitro-dyestufts 113. o. Old dye baths 118. Oleine 175. Olive Oil soap 177. Opal Blue 62, 122. Orange 18, 20, 121. Orseille (Archil) Substitute 38. Orseilline 58, 121. Oxalate of Ammonia 175. Oxalic Acid 175. Oxalic acid mordant 138. Oxydianil Yellow 16, 121. Patent Blue 66, 68, 70, 122. Patent Green 70, 122. Patent Marine Blue 42, 121. Penetration 117. Permanganate of Potash 175. Peroxide of Hydrogene 17.5. Phenolphthaleine 176. Phloxine 72, 124. Phosphine 74, 125. Potash 176. Potash Alum 176. Potassium Bicarbonate 176. Pottassium Bichromate 166. Potassium Permanganate 176. Potting process 0. Preparing wool by means of tannin 157. Pure Blue 62, 121. Purifying of water 185. Purple Blue (i2, 122. Pyrolignite of Iron 176. Quick lime 169. Quick lime Test 12. Q- R. Red 121. Resorcine Dyestuffs 113. Rocceline 28, 121. Rosazeine 58, 76, 121, 125. Rose Bengale 72, 124. Rosolane 125. Safranine 76, 125. Sal Ammoniac 176. Scarlet 28, 121. Scouring with soda 10. Silk Wool Black 50. Silk, tinting of, in an acid bath 5. Soap 176. Soap bath 125. Soda 177. Soda Lye 177. Soda Test 12. Soda Vat 145. Sodium Acetate 162. Sodium Bichromate 178. .Sodium Bisulphate 178. Sodium Bisulphite 178. Sodium Borate 178. Sodium Carbonate 178. Sodium Chlorate 178. Sodium Chloride ll><. Sodium Hydrosulphite 179. Sodium Hydroxide 179. Sodium Peroxide 179. Sodium Phosphate 179. Sodium Silicate 179. Sodium Sulphate 179. Sodium Thiosulphate 179. Soluble Blue 62, 122. Specific gravity, tables of, 196. Spirits of Ammonia 179. Starch 179. Stock Vat 147. Storing of Dyestufts 116. Stoving colours 125. Stoving process 125. Sulphate of Alumina 180. Sulphate of Copper 180. Sulphate of h-on 180. Sulphate of Magnesia 180. Sulphate of Soda ISO. Index. 201 Sulphocyanide of Ammonia 180. Sulphur 180. Sulphuric Acid 180. Sulphurous Acid 182. T. Tables 161 — 196. Tannin 156, 182. Tanning of wool 156. Tartar 136, 183. Tartar Emetic 183. Tartaric Acid 183. Tartar Substitute 183. Thermometric scales, comparison of 195. Tin chloride 169. Tournant Oil 183. Transverse streaks 118. Treating with formaldehyde 157. Triphenylmethan-dyestuflfs 113. Turkey Red Oil 183. U. Urine 183. V. Vat Dyeing 114, 142. Vesuvine 74, 123. Victoria Blue 60, 78, 121, 125. Victoria Rubine 28, 121. Victoria Scarlet 24, 121. Victoria Violet 38, 40, 121. Victoria Yellow 18, 121. Violet crystals 78, 125. Vigoureux Black 96. Vigoureux Brown 96. Vigoureux Grey 96. Vigoureux Red 96. Vigoureux Yelbw 96. w. Water 183. Waterglass 186. Weights 187. Wet steaming 9. Woad 186. Woad Vat 145. Zinc dust 186. z. N. C tTATC UNIVDtSITY