mm^i^mmmmm^ ^mmmi^^mi:^ H > G . 1\, INGSTON r-lfm^^f^Cfiffli •ii-am Wt:(!^il)li:it '-v.-'.V'V.'''.v-'.V"'.'" ■■ ' W\:i\&^MMi OR vfe Natural .HiSTGFnr IN Itc)RW:^:AKD SSBth America •.'.'I'lj.i;^'. QIl|p i. B. ifttU IGtbrarg Nnrtb CEarnltna ^tatp Q,H101 This book is due on the date indicated below and is subject to an overdue fine as posted at the Circulation Desk. .'?••:■■■ l'-^.-, .. ^'20 1980 /(F7<^ THE WESTERN WORLD. THE WESTERN WORLD. Picturesque Sketches or NATUEE AND NATURAL HISTORY IN NORTH AND SOUTH AMERICA. BY WILLIAM II G. KINGSTO:^ LONDON: T. NELSON AND SONS, PATERNOSTER ROW; EDINBURGH; AND NEW YORK. 1874. PREFACE. 'K the following pages I have endeavoured to give, in a series of picturesque sketches, a general view of the natural history as well as of the physical appearance of North and South America. I have first described the features of the country ; then its vegetation ; and next the wild men and the brute creatures which inhabit it. However, I have not been bound by any strict rule in that respect, as my object has been to produce a work calculated to interest the family circle rather than one of scientific pretensions. I have endeavoured to impart, in an attractive manner, information about its physical geography, mineral riches, vegetable productions, and the appearance and customs of the human beino-s inhabitini^ it. But the chief portion of the work is devoted to accounts of the brute crea- tion, from the huge stag and buftalo to the minute humming- l)ird and persevering termites, — introduced not in a formal way, but as they appear to the naturalist-explorer, to the traveller in search of adventures, or to the sportsman; with VI PREFACE. descriptions of their mode of life, and of how they are found, hunted, or trapped. I have described in the same way some of the most remarkable trees and plants; and from the ac- counts I have given I trust that a knowledge may be obtained of the way they are cultivated, and how their produce is prepared and employed. Thus I hope that, with the aid of the numerous illustrations in the work, a correct idea will be gained of the wilder and more romantic portions of the great Western World. WILLIAM H. G. KINGSTON. CONTENTS. NORTH AMERICA CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY. — PHYSICAL FEATURES OF NORTH AMERICA. Northern region — Mountains — Great rivers — Lakes — Aboriginal inhabitants : The red men of the wilds — Indian wigwams — Appearance of the Indians — Wood Indians — The Prairie Indians — Religious Belief — American antiquities 13 CHAPTER II. NORTH AMERICA CONSIDERED AS DIVIDED INTO FOUR ZONES, WITH THE VARIOUS OBJECTS OF INTEREST FOUND IN EACH. The first zone — The second zone: The Fertile Belt of Rupert's Land — Animal Life on the Fertile Belt — The third zone : The Dismal Swamp in the United States — Fossil footmarks of birds — The Big-Bone Lick — The fourth zone 38 CHAPTER III. THE PRAIRIES, PLAINS OF THE WEST, AND PASSAGE OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. The prairies — The barren plains in the Far West — The Rocky Mountains — Parks — The sage cock — Winter scene among the Rocky Mountains — The horned frog — Fur-trappers of the Far West— Wonders of Nature : Mammoth Cave of Kentucky — Oil springs— Mammoth trees and caverns of Calaveras 49 CHAPTER IV. GENERAL SURVEY OF THE ZOOLOGY OF NORTH AMERICA. Interesting facts — The various animals met with — The feathered tribes 76 CHAPTER V. DESCRIPTION OF VARIOUS ANIMALS — RUMINANTS. The moose, or elk — The cariboo, or reindeer — The wapiti, or Canadian stag — The karjacou, viii CONTEXTS. . or Virginian deer — Tlie antelope — The bighorn, or mountain sheep — The bison, commonly called the buffalo in America 81 CHAPTER VT. RODENTS. The beaver — The musk-rat, or musquash — Prairie-dogs — The porcupine 128 CHAPTER VII. CARNIVORA. The black bear — The grizzly bear — Wolves^Lynxes— The wolverene, or glutton — The rac- coon — The agouara, or crab-eating raccoon — The ermine — The pine-marten — The otter — • The skunk — The pekan, or wood-shock — The mink — Marsupials, or pouched animals: The Virginian or common opossum 150 CHAPTER VIII. THE FEATHERED TRIBES OF NORTH AMERICA. The bald or white-headed eagle — The wild turkey — The ocellated turkey — The canvas-back duck — The summer duck — The pinnated grouse, or prairie hen — The ruffed grouse, or American pheasant — Passenger-pigeons — Humming-birds — The cow-bird — The blue-bird — The snow-bird — The Carolina parrot 189 CHAPTER IX. REPTILES. Tortoises :— The lettered terrapin — The chicken tortoise — The salt-water terrapin — The box tortoise — The mud tortoise — The alligator terrapin — The snapping turtle — Lizards: — The six-lined taraguina — The glass snake — The anolis — The crowned tapayaxin — Snakes : — The rattlesnake — The banded and military rattlesnakes — The corn snake — The thunder snake — The chicken snake — -The milk or house snake — The black snake — The coach-whip snake — Frogs: — The bull frog — The solitary frog — The savannah cricket frog — The changeable tree frog — The spotted eft — The menopoma — The congo snake — The necturus — The siren, or mud eel — Grasshoppers, or locusts 210 MEXICO AND CENTRAL AMERICA. CHAPTER I. MEXICO. Birds of Mexico: — The scarlet tanager — The anis, or savannah blackbird — Massina's trogon — The Mexican trogon — The resplendent trogon — ReptUes : — The rhinophryne — The axolotl 2o8 CHAPTER II. CENTRALAMERICA. Honduras and the Mosquito Country — Fauna— The mahogany-tree — Humming-birds: — The slender shear-tail — The rufus flime-bearer — Princess Helena's coquette — The sparkling- tail humming-bird 253 CONTENTS. ix CHAPTER III. RUINS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. Stone quarries — Palenque — Ruins of Quiche — Uxmal — Other ruins 273 SOUTH AMERICA, CHAPTER I. SCENES OF ANCIENT DAYS. The continent in ancient days — Its former inhabitants 286 CHAPTER II. A GENERAL VIEW OF SOUTH AMERICA, Its mountain sj'stems — Fresh regions — Llanos and Pampas— Its rivers 293 CHAPTER III. VALLEY OF THE AMAZON. Scenes on the Amazon — The rainy season — Storms — The pororocca 293 CHAPTER IV. CHARACTER OF VEGETATION ON THE BANKS. The gapo — Trip up an igarape into the interior — The campos — Geology of the Amazonian Valley — A day and night on the Amazon, with their sights and sounds oOy CHAPTER V. THE CORDILLERAS. Cape Horn — The Puncu of Avisca — Potosi — Volcanoes — Early civilization 327 CHAPTER VI. SOUTHERN AND WESTERN SHORES OF THE CONTINENT. Tierra del Fuego — Its inhabitants — The burning desert — Sand-storms 339 CHAPTER VII. THE INDIANS OF THE CORDILLERAS. The native Indians- -The puna - , , . , 344 CHAPTER VIII. THE WILD ANIMALS OF THE CORDILLERAS. The llama — The alpaca — The huanucu - The vicuna — The condor 353 X CONTENTS. CHAPTER IX. THE VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS OF THE CORDILLERAS. Chincbona or Peruvian bark — Coca 36G CHAPTER X. HUMMING-BIRDS (TROCHILID^) OF THE CORDILLERAS AND WESTERN COAST. Sword-bill humming-bird — Copper-bellied puff -leg — AVhite-booted racket-tail — Columbian thorn-bill — Black warrior — The sickle-bill — Mars' sun-angel — Heliangelus Clarissas — Snow-cap humming-bird — Spangled coquette — Train-bearer (leobia amaryllis) — Hill star — The sappho comet — The phaon comet — Blue-tailed sylph 37G CHAPTER XI. MAMMALIA. The savage inhabitants of the Amazonian Valley — The puma — The jaguar — ant-eaters — Myrmc- cophaga tamandua — Little ant-eater — The sloth— The tapir — The peccary — Hydrochferus capybara — Agouti dasyprocta — The paca (crelogenys) — The armadillo — The opossum — The crab-eating opossum — Marian's opossum — Yapock opossum — Bats 391 CHAPTER XII. QUADRUMANA. Monkeys — Spider-monkeys — The chemeck — Macaco barrigudo — The uakari — Alouattes, or howlers — The cuxio (bearded saki) — The cacajao — Marmosets, or midas monkeys — Midas ursulus — Midas leoninas, or Jacchus Eosalia — Midas argentatus — Sai capicinus — Horned capucin — The common capucin — Parauacu — Pithecia hirsuta — Pithecia albicans — Saimiri - — Callithrix — Teetee — Collared teetee — Night apes, or douroucouli 441 CHAPTER XIII. BIRDS. Humming-birds — Topaz humming-bird — Ara humming-bird — The racket-tail humming-bird — The cayenne fairy — Cotingas — The campanero, or bell-bird — The umbrella, or fife-bird — The cock of the rocks — Golden-winged manakin — Goatsuckers — Caciques — Toucans — The realejo, or organ-bird- The curassow — Macaws — Parrots — Anaca parrot — Marianna parrot — Trogons — The resplendent trogon — Jacamars — The jacana — Frigate-bird pelicans — The horned screamer — Vultures — The black vulture— The turkey-buzzard 468 CHAPTER XIV. REPTILES. Alligators — The iguana — Geckos — The anaconda — The boa — The spotted boa — The ringed boa — The rattlesnake— The fer de lance — The bushmaster — Labarri, or Elaps lemniscatus —Whip snakes — The green snake — Frogs and toads— The Surinam toad — Tortoises — The Cheleys matamata 507 CHAPTER XV. WONDERS OF INSECT LIFE. Termites, or white ants— Sauba ants — The amphisbajna — Ecitons — Robber ecitons — Blind CONTENTS. xi ants — Centipeds — Cockroaches — Fire-ants — Insects — Fire-flies — Suspended cocoons ■ — Lanteru-fly — The tanana — "Wood beetles — Spiders— Bees and wasps — Butterflies .... 540 CHAPTER XVI. THE WONDERS OP THE FOREST. Aspects of the forest — Buttress trees^ — ^Sipos or wild vines — The seringa or india-rubber tree — The cow-tree — Monkeys' drinking-cups — Brazil-nut tree — The Victoria Regia — Palms 570 CHAPTER XVII. THE WONDERS OF THE WATERS. The manatee, or cow-fish — Piranha — The diodon — The acara — Anableps — The parrot-fish — The gymnotus — Localization of fish — Gymnotus, or electric eel — Sting-rays — Serrosalmus piraya — The caribe — Adaptation of animals to their destined mode of existence .... 591 CHAPTER XVIII. NATIVES OF THE VALLEY OF THE AMAZON. The Mundurucu.s — General character of the natives — The Purupurus — The Catauixis 609 CHAPTER XIX. INDIAN WEAPONS AND MODES OF KILLING GAME. The blow-pipe — Wourali poison — Timbo— Mode of shooting and netting turtle — Another mode of catching fish — Poisoning birds — The long-bow — Stalking game — Mode of killing alligators — Turtle-catching and collecting eggs — Oil from turtles' eggs — Fishing-nets and baskets — Canoes — Musical instruments 615 ^art fourth. NORTHERN REGIONS OF SOUTH AMERICA. CHAPTER I. VENEZUELA. Humming-birds^ Trees— The Llaneros 635 CHAPTER II. GUIANA. Kivers : — The Essequibo — The Berbice River — The Arecuna Indians— The Corentyn River — The Demerara River — Native tribes— The Arawaks — The Guarania — The Macusis — The Acawoios — Mounds full of human remains — Vegetable productions 654 CHAPTER III. CENTRAL BRAZIL. Serras — The Campos dos Paricis— The cerrados — Diamond-mines of Brazil ■ C87 xii CONTENTS. SOUTHERN REGIONS OF SOUTH AMERICA. CHAPTER I. GEOGRAPHY AND NATIVE TRIBES. The pampero — Natives of La Plata and its tributaries — -The Pampas and Patagonia — Tlie Guaranis and their descendants — The Querandis or Pehuelches — The Payaguas — ■ Indians of Bolivia — Native apothecaries — Tribes of the Gran Chaco — Jesuit missions- Language 692 CHAPTER II. PARAGUAY. The Parana — Natives — Mountain scenery — Gregarious spiders —The chigo, or sandflea — Fish in the Parana 707 CHAPTER III. THE PAMPAS. Gauchos of the Pampas — Patagonians— Breaking-in colts — Deer of the Pampas — Nata cattle • — The bizcacha — The Peruvian bizcacha and chinchilla — The tucutuco (Ctenomys Brazili- ensis — The rhea — Caracara polyborus — Owls of the Pampas (Athene cuniculai-ia) — The Pampas cuckoo (Molothrus niger' — The calandria (Mina Orpheus) — Flamingoes — Oven- birds — The little house-builder — The scissor-beak — Parrots —The boat-bill heron — Con- clusion 715 THE WESTERN WORLD iavt Jirst. NORTH AMERICA CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY. — PHYSICAL FEATURES OF NORTH AMERICA. HE continent of America, if the stony records of tlie Past are read aright, claims to be the oldest instead of the newest portion of the globe.* Bowing to this opinion of geologists till they see cause to express a different one, we will, in consequence, commence our survey of the world and its inhabitants with the Western Hemisphere. From the multitude of objects which crowd upon us, we can examine only a few of the most interesting minutely ; at others we can merely give a cursory glance ; while many we must pass by altogether, — our object being to obtain a general and retainable knowledge of the physical features of the Earth, the vegetation which clothes its surface, the races of men who * According to some geologists, Labrador was the first part of our globe's surface to become dry land. 14 PHYSICAL FEATURES. inhabit it, and the tribes of the brute creation found in its forests and waters, on its plains and mountains. As we go along^ we will stop now and then to pick up scraps of information about its geology, and the architectural antiquities found on it; as the first will assist in giving us an insight into the former conditions of extinct animals, and the latter may teach us something of the past history of the human tribes noAv wanderino' as savaa;es in reoions once inhabited by civilized men. Still, the study of Natural History and the geographical range of animals is the primary object we have in view. Though the best-known portions of the Polar Regions are more nearly connected with North America than with Europe or Asia, we propose to leave them to be fully described in an- other work. It is impossible, in the present volume, to em- brace more than the continental parts of the Western AYorld. Lookino' down on the continent of North America, which we will first visit, we observe its triangular shape : the apex, the southern end of Mexico ; the base, the Arctic shore ; the sides, especially the eastern, deeply indented, first by Hudson Bay, which pierces through more than a third of the con- tinent, then by the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and further south by Chesapeake Bay and the Bay of Fundy. On the western coast, the Gulf of California runs 800 miles up its side, with the Rio Colorado falling into it ; and further north are the Straits of Juan da Fuca, between Vancouver's Island and the mainland, north of which are numerous archipelagoes and inlets extending round the great peninsula of Yukon to Kotzebue Sound. Parallel with either coast we shall see two great mountain systems — that called the Appalachian, including the chain of NORTHERN REGION. 15 the Alleghanies, on the east, and the famed Rocky Mountains on the west — running from north to south through the continent. We shall easily recollect the great water-system of North America if we consider it to be represented by an irregular cross, of which the Mississippi with its affluents forms the stem ; Lake Superior and the River St. Lawrence, including the intermediate lakes, the eastern arm ; the Lake of the Woods and its neighbours. Lake Winnepeg and the Saskatchewan, the western arm ; and the northern lakes of Athabasca, the Great Slave Lake, and the Mackenzie River, tlie upper part of the cross. If we observe also a wide level region which runs north and south between the Arctic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico, bounded on either side by the two lofty mountain ranges already mentioned, we shall have a tolerably correct notion of the chief physical features of the North American continent. Arriving at the northern end, we shall find it reaching some four degrees north of the Polar Circle, though some of its head- lands extend still further into the icy sea. Beyond it stretches away to an unknown distance towards the Pole a dense archipelago of large islands, the narrow channels between them bridged over in winter by massive sheets of ice, afford- ing an easy passage to the reindeer, musk-oxen, and other animals which migrate southward during the colder portion of the Arctic winter. NORTHERN REGION. With that end of America will ever be associated the names of Sir John Franklin and his gallant companions, who perished in their search of the North-west Passage ; as well as 16 NORTHERN REGION, those of other more fortunate successors, especially of Captains M'Clure and Collinson of the British navy, to the first of whom is due the honour of leading an expedition from west to east along that icy shore ; while Captain Collinson took his ship, the Enteiyrise, up to Cambridge Bay, Victoria Land, further east than any ship had before reached from the west — namely, 105° west — and succeeded in extricating her from amid the ice and bringing her home in safety. Captain M'Clure, not so fortunate in one respect, was compelled to leave his ship frozen up. The two expeditions, while proving the existence of a channel, at the same time showed its uselessness as a means of passing from the Atlantic to the Pacific, as, except in most extraordinary seasons, it remains blocked up all the year by ice. The northern end of the American continent is a reoion of mountains, lakes, and rivers. Several expeditions have been undertaken through it, — the first to ascertain the coast-line, by Mackenzie, Franklin, Richardson, Back, and others, and latterly by Dr. Rae ; and also by Sir John Richardson, who left the comforts of England to convey assistance to his long-missing former companions, though unhappily without avail. These journeys, through vast barren districts, among rugged hills, marshes, lakes, and rivers, in the severest of climates, exhibit in the explorers an amount of courage, endurance, and perseverance never surpassed. In the course of the rivers occur many dangerous falls, rapids, and cataracts, amid rocks and huge boulders, between which the voyagers' frail barks make their way, running a fearful risk every instant of being dashed to pieces. Not a tree rears its head in the wild and savage landscape, the vegetation consisting chiefly of lichens and mosses. Among the former the tripe NORTHERN REGION. 17 de roche is the most capable of supporting life. Here winter reigns with stern rigour for ten months in the year; and even in summer Liting blasts, hail- storms, and rain frequently occur. Yet in this inhospitable region numerous herds of reindeer, musk-oxen, and other mammalia find subsistence during the brief summer, as do partridge and numerous bird.s of various species. Here the Esquimaux lives in his skin-tent during the warmer months, and in his snow-hut in winter, existing on the seals which he catches with his harpoon, the whales occasionally cast on shore, and the bears, deer, and smaller animals he entraps. The numerous rivers flowino- from the mountain -ridofes mostly make their way northward. The Mackenzie, the largest and most western, rising in the Great Slave and Great Bear Lakes, falls, after a course of many hundred miles, into the Polar Sea. The Coppermine River, rising in Point Lake, makes its course in the same direction ; while eastward, the great Fish or Back River, flowing from the same lake as the first mentioned stream, reaches the ocean many hundred miles away from it, at the low^er extremity of Bathurst Islet. It runs rapidly in a tortuous course of 530 geographical miles throuo'h an iron-ribbed countrv, without a sin^ie tree on the whole line of its banks, expanding here and there into five large lakes, and broken by thirty-three falls, cascades, and rapids ere it reaches the Polar Sea. Not far from its mouth rises the barren rocky height of Cape Beaufort. It was down this stream that Captain Back, the Arctic explorer, made his way, but was compelled to return on account of the inclemency of the weather and the difiiculty of finding fuel ; the only vegetation which he could discover 379) o 18 NOPwTHERX REGION. being fern and moss, which was so wet that it would not burn, while he was ahnost without fire, or any means of obtaining warmth, his men sinking knee-deep as they pro- ceeded on shore in the soft slush and snow, which benumbed their limbs and dispiiited them in the extreme. Through this country the unhappy remnant of the Franklin expedition, many years later, perished in their attempt to reach the Hudson Bay Company's territory. Here, in winter, the ther- mometer sinks 70° below zero. Even within his hut, when he had succeeded in lighting a fire. Back could not get it higher than 12° below zero. Ink and paint froze. The sextant cases, and boxes of seasoned wood — principally fir — all split; the skin of the hands became dried, cracked, and opened into un- sightly and smarting gashes ; and on one occasion, after washing his hands and face within three feet of the fire, his hair was actually clotted with ice before he had time to dry it. The hunters described the sensation of handling their guns as similar to that of touching red-hot iron ; and so excessive was the pain, that they were obliged to wrap thongs of leather round the triggers to prevent their fingers coming m contact with the steel. Numbers of the Indian inhabitants of the countr}^ perish from cold and hunger every year — indeed, it seems wonderful that human beings should attempt to live in such a country ; j^et much further north, the hardy Esquimaux, subsisting on whale's blubber and seal's flesh, contrives to support life in tolerable comfort. To the south of the Arctic Circle stunted fir-trees begin to appear, and at length grow so thickly, that it is with diffi- culty a passage can be made amid them. Frequently the explorer has to clamber over fallen trees, through rivulets, bogs, and swamps, till often the difficulties in the way MOUNTAINS. 19 appear insurmountable to all but the boldest and the most persevering. MOUNTAINS. On the western side of the continent rises gi'adually from the Polar regions the mighty chain which runs throughout its whole length — a distance of altogether 10,000 miles. The northern portion, known as the Rocky Mountains, runs for 3000 miles, in two parallel chains, to the plains of Mexico, flanked by two other parallel ranges on the west, — the most northern of which are the Sea Alps of the north-west coast, and on the southern, the mountains of California. At the north-western end of the Sea Alps rises the lofty mountain of Mount Elias, 17,000 feet in height — the highest mountain in North America — not far from Behring Bay ; while another range, the Chippewayan, stretches eastward, culmi- nating in Mount Brown, 16,000 feet in height, and gi'adually diminishing, till it sinks into insignificance towards the Arctic Circle. Point Barrow is the most northern point of America on the western side. It consists of a long narrow spit, com- posed of gravel and loose sand, which the pressure of the ice has forced up into numerous masses, having the appearance of rocks. From this point eastward to the mouth of the Mac- kenzie Piver the coast declines a little south of east. The various mountain ranof'es existino; on the eastern side of the continent, including the chain of the Alleghanies, form what is called the Appalachian system. It consists of numerous parallel chains, some of which form detached ridges, the whole running from the north-east to the south-west, and it extends about 1200 miles in length — from Maine to Alabama. Besides the Alleghany Mountains in the western [)art of Virginia and the central parts of Pennsylvania, it embraces 20 GREAT RIVERS. the Catskill Mountains in the State of New York, the Green Mountains in the State of Vermont, the highlands eastward of the Hudson River, and the White Mountains in New Hampshire. Mount Washington, which rises to an elevation of G634 feet out of the last-named range, is the highest peak of the whole system. To the north of the St. Lawrence the lofty range of the Wotchish Mountains extends towards the coast of Labrador; while the whole region west and north of that river and the great Canadian lakes is of considerable length, the best-known range being that which contains the Lacloche Mountains, which appear to the north of Lake Huron, and extend towards the Ottawa River. These two great ranges of mountains divide the North American continent into three portions. GREAT RIVERS. The rivers which rise on the eastern side of the Appal- achian range run into the Atlantic ; those which rise west of the Rocky Mountains empty themselves into the Pacific ; while the mighty streams which flow between the two, pass through the great basin of the Mississippi, and swell the waters of that mother of rivers. The gi^eat valley of the Mississippi, indeed, drains a surface greater than that of any other river on the globe, with the exception perhaps of the Amazon. The Missouri, even before it reaches it, runs a course of 1300 miles, while the Mississippi itself, before its confluence with the Missouri, has already passed over a dis- tance of 1200 miles; thence to its mouth its course is upwards of 1200 miles more. The Arkansas, which flows into it, is 2000 miles long, and the Red River of the south 1500 miles in length; while the Ohio, to its junction with the Mississippi, is nearly 1000 miles long. LAKf:S. 21 North America may be said to contain four great valleys — that of the Mississippi, running north and south ; that of the St. Lawrence, from the south-west to the north-east ; that of the Saskatchewan, extending from the Rocky Mountains below Mount BroAvn to Lake Superior ; that of the Mac- kenzie, from the Great Slave Lake to the Arctic Ocean. Although a large portion of the eastern side of the continent is densely wooded, there are towards the west, extending from the Gulf of Mexico to the Arctic Ocean, vast plains. In the south they are treeless and barren in the extreme ; while advancing northward they are covered with rich grasses, which afford support to vast herds of buffaloes, as well as deer and other animals. LAKES. The most remarkable feature in North America is its lake- system — the largest and most important in the Avorld. hi the north-west, at the foot of the Rocky Mountains, are the Great Bear and Great Slave Lakes, which discharge their waters throuoh the Mackenzie River into the Arctic Ocean. Next we have the Athabasca, Wollaston, and Deer Lakes. In the very centre of the continent are the two important lakes of Winnipeg and Winnipegoos, — the former 240 miles in length by 55 in width, and the latter about half the size. The large river of the Saskatchewan flows into Lake Winni- peg, and with it will, ere long, form an important means of communication between the different parts of that vast district lately opened up for colonization. At its southern end the Red River of the north flows into it, on the banks of whicli a British settlement has long been established. Sevei'al streams, however, make their way into Hudson Bay. Be- 2 B 22 LAKKS. tweeii It and Lake Superior is an elevated ridge of about 1 500 feet in height ; the streams on the west fallino- into Lake Winnipeg, while those which flow towards the east reach Lake Superior. We now come to the site of the five largest fresh-water lakes in the world. Lake Superior extends, from west to east, 335 miles, with an extreme breadth of 175. Its waters flow through the St. Mary's River b}^ a I'apid descent into Lake Huron, which is 240 miles long. This lake is • livided by the Manitoulin islands into two portions, and is connected with Lake Michigan by a narrow chaimel without rapids, so that the two lakes together may be considered to form one sheet of water. . On its southern extremity the waters of Lake Huron flow through another narrow channel, which expands during part of its course into Lake St. Clair; and they then enter Lake Erie, which has a length of 265 miles, and a breadth of 80 miles. It is of much less depth than the other lakes, and its surface is therefore easily broken up into dangerous billows by strong winds. Passing onward towards the north-east, the current enters the Niagara River, about half-way down which it leaps along a rocky ledge of 100 feet in height, to a lower level, forming the celebrated Falls of Niagara, and then passes on in a rapid course into Lake Ontario. The fall between the two lakes is 333 feet. Lake Ontario is 180 miles long and 65 miles wide. Out of its north-eastern end falls the broad stream which here generally takes the name of the St. Lawrence, and which proceeds onward, now widening into lake-like expanses full of islands, now compressed into a narrow channel, in a north- easterly direction. The true St. Lawrence may indeed be considered as traversing the whole system of the gTeat lakes of ll!Mlll::;|i lllni?"! -I I m -n > r r en O -n > > 33 > Bii!! i^' *'il'!'lliH,|l|'l!liii!|!: II I' 'I ill'ill m ''lllWlillllll!llll,l||:|!' '-"li mu i':l«# I iJlilli'i'^'CliiiiliSJii III illi.lVI ' ;,i i.,iii|ii|ii; i ! 1^! I ■ I :; \m l.i' i|'i i!' l! '1 !i'iiLi;h.i::i.'. ,il.i'l":i'!:;i! I.AKES. North Anierioa, and thus being little less than a thousand miles in direct lem-th ; indeed, includino- its windino-s, it is fully two thousand miles lono\ To the north-west of it exist countless numbers of small lakes united bv a network of streams; while SOENKRY ON THE ST. LAWKKXCE — T.AKE OF THE THOUSAVD ISLES. numerous large rivers, such as the Ottawa, the St. Maurice, and the Saguenay, flow into it, and assist to swell its current. There are numerous other small lakes to the west of the Rocky Mountains, a large number of which exist in the Province of British (\)lumbia, and are more or less connected with the Fi'aser and C'()hnnV)ia Rivers. Furth(^r to the south are other lakes, many of theui of volcanic origin, some intensely salt, others formed of hot mud. Among these is the 26 ABORIGIXAL INHABITANTS. Great Salt Lake, in the State of Utah. To the south of the St. Lawrence also is Lake Champlain, 105 miles long, though extremely narrow, — being only 10 miles in its widest part, narrowing in some places to half a mile. Near it is the beautiful Lake St. George, w4th several other small lakes ; and lastly, in Florida, there is a chain of small lakes, termi- nating in Lake Okechodee — a circular sheet of water about thirty miles in diameter. We must now proceed more particularly to examine the i-egions of which we have obtained the preceding cursory view, but, before we do. so, we must glance at their human inhabitants. ABORIGINAL INHABITANTS THE RED MEN OF THE WILDS. While the white men from Europe occupy the whole eastern coast, pressing rapidly and steadily westwaixl, the Redskin aborigines maintain a precarious existence through- out the centre of the continent, from north to south, and are still found here and there on the western shores. On the northern ice-bound coast, the skin-clothed Esquimaux wander in small bands from Behring Strait to Baffin Bay, but nevei" venture far inland, l)eing kept in check by their hereditary enemies, the Athabascas, the most northern of the red-skinned nations. The Esquimaux, inhabiting the Arctic regions, may more properly be described in the volume devoted to tliat part of the globe. INJ^IAN WIGWAMS. Here and there, "m n|)enings in the primeval forest, either natural or artificial, on the banks of streams and lakes, several small conical sti'uctiires may be seen, composed of long stakes, stuck in the ground in circTiIar fonu, and fastened at the top. INDFAX WIGWAMS. •27 The Avails consist of large sheets of 1»ii-eh l)nik, layci- nhovc- layer, fastened to the stakes. On the lee-si«]e is left a small opening for ingress and egress, which can be closed by a sheet of bark, or the skin of a wild animal. At the apex, also, an aperture is allowed to remain for the escape of the smoke from the fire which burns within. Lines are secured to the INDIAN" WICnVAMS. stakes within, on which various articles are suspended ; while round the interior mats or skins are spread to serve as couches, the centre being left free for the fire. Tn front, forked stakes sujiport horizontal poles, on which fish or skins are hvnig to dry ; and against others, sheets of bark are 28 APPEAKA^'CE OF THE INDIANS. placed on the weather-side, foiiniiig lean-tos, shelters to larger fires, used for more extensive culinary operations than can be carried on within the hut. On the shores are seen drawn up beautifully-formed canoes of birch bark of various sizes — some sufficient to carry eight or ten men ; and others, in which only one or two people can sit. APPEARANCE OF THE INDIANS. iAmid the huts may be seen human figures with dull copper or reddish-brown complexions, clothed in rudely -tanned skins of a yellowish or white hue, and ornamented with the teeth of animals and coloured grasses, or worsted and beads. Their figures are tall and slight. They have black, piercing eyes, slightly inclining downwards towards the nose, which is broad and large. They have thick, coarse lips, high and prominent cheek-bones, with someAvhat naiTow foreheads, and coarse, dark, glossy hair, without an approach to a curl ; their heads sometimes adorned with feathered caps or other ornaments. Often their faces are besmeared with various coloured pig- ments in stripes or patches — one colour on one side of the face, the other being of a different hue. Their lower extremi- ties are covered witli leo-o-ino-s of leathei-, ornamented witli fringes, and their feet clothed in mocassins of the same material as their leggings. The men stalk carelessly about, or repair their canoes or fishing gear and arms ; while the women sit, crouching down to the ground, bending over their caldrons, shelling Indian corn, or engaged in some other domestic occupation ; and the children, innocent of clothing, tumble about on the ground. In travelling, the Indian mother carries her child on her back. It is strapped to a board ; and when a halting -place is reached, the cradle and the APPEARANCE OF THE INDIANS. 29 child are hung upon a tree, or on a pole inside the wigwam. Those who have communication with the whites may be seen clothed in blanket garments, which the men wear in the shajjc INDIAN MODE OF CARKYING CHILDKKV. of coats ; while the women swathe their bodies in a whole blanket, which covers them from their shoulders to their feet. Thoug^h the men assume a m-ave and diefnified air Avhen a stranger approaches, they often indulge in practical jokes and so WOOD INDIANS. laughter among themselves ; and in seasons of prosperity, ap- pear good-humoured and merry. The women, however, are doomed to lives of unremitting toil, from the time they be- come wives. They are compelled to cany the burdens, and to cultivate the ground, when any groimd is cultivated, for the production of potatoes, maize, and tobacco. The men con- descend merely to manufacture their arms and canoes, and to hunt ; or they engage in what they consider the noblest of employments, waging war on their neighbours. The women, indeed, are often compelled to paddle the canoes, sometimes to go fishing, and to carry the portable property from place to place, or an overload of game when captured. Intelligent as the Indian appears, it is evident that he has cultivated his perceptive powers to the neglect of his spiritual and moral qualities. His senses are remarkably acute. His memory is good ; and when aroused, his imagination is vivid, though wild in the extreme. He is warmly attached to he- reditary customs and manners. Naturally indolent and sloth- ful, he detests labour, and looks upon it as a disgTace, though he will go through great fatigue when hunting or engaged in warfare. WOOD INDIANS. The northern tribes are known as Wood Indians, in contra- distinction to the inhabitants of the open country, the Prairie Indians, who diiFer greatly from the former in their haVjits and customs. All the tribes of the Athabascas, as well as those to the south of them, known as the Algonquins, are Wood Indians. They are nearly always engaged in hunting the wild animals of the region they inhabit, for the sake of their furs, which they dispose of to the agents of the Hudson Bay Company and other traders, in exchange for blankets, WOOD INDIANS. 31 fire-arms, hatchets, and numerous other articles, as well as too often for the pernicious fire-water, to obtain even small quan- tities of which they will frequently dispose of the skins which it has cost them many weeks to obtain w^ith much hardship and danger. These Wood Indians are peaceably disposed, and can always escape the attacks of their enemies of the prairies by retreating among their forest or lake INDIANS SPEARING FISH. fastnesses. They obtain their game by various devices, some- times using traps of ingenious construction, or shooting the creatures with bows and arrows, and of later years with fire- arms. They spear the fish which abound in their waters, or catch them with scoop and other nets. Although their ordi- nary wigwams are of the shape already described, some are con- siderably larger, somewhat of a bee-hive form, covered thickly 32 THE PRAIRIE INDIANS. with birch bark, and have a raised dais in the interior capable of holding a considerable number of people. The best knoMTi of these Forest Indians are the Chippeways, who range from the b& iks of Lake Huron almost to the Rocky Mountains, throughout the British territory. THE PRAIRIE INDIANS. To the south of the tribes already mentioned, are the large family of the Dakotahs, who number among them the Sioux, Assiniboines, and Blackfeet, and are the hereditary enemies of the Chippeways, especially of their nearer neighbours, the Crees and Ojibbeways. These Dakotahs occupy the open prairie country to the south of the Saskatchewan, and are the most northern of the Prairie Indians. In summer, they wear little or no clothing ; and possessing numerous horses, hunt the buffaloes, or rather bisons, on horseback, armed with spears and bows and arrows. They are fiercer and more war- like than their northern neighbours, and have long set the whites at defiance. The buffalo supplies them with their chief support. The flesh of the animal dried in the sun, or pounded with its fat into pemmican, is their chief article of food ; while its skin serves as a covering for their tents, a couch at night, or for clothing by day, and is manufactured into bags for carrying their provisions, and numerous other articles. Physically, they are superior to the Wood Indians. They are both hunters and wamors ; and though they may occasionally exchange the buffalo robes — as the skins are called — for fire-arms, they seldom employ themselves as trappers, or attend to the cultivation of the ground. The greater number of the tribes further to the south pos- sess horses, and hunt the buffalo and deer. Some are even KELIGIOUS BELIEF. 3;j more savage than tlie Dakotahs, while others, again, have made slight progress toAvards civilization, and live in settled villages, while they rudely cultivate the ground, and possess herds of cattle. Although the Indian languages differ greatly from each other, a gTeat similarity in grammatical structure and form has been found to exist among them, denoting a common, though remote origin. They differ, however, so greatly from any known language of the Old World, as to afford conclusive l^roof that their ancestors must have left its shores at an early period of the world's history. The governments also differed. In some tribes it ap-- proached an absolute monarchy, the will of the sachem oi- chief being the supreme law ; while in others it was almost entirely republican, the chief being elected for his personal qualities, though frequently the leadership was preserved in the female line of particular families. When describing the customs of the Indians, we are com- pelled often to speak of the past, as the tribes, from being pressed together by the advancement of civilization, have be- come amalgamated, and many of their customs have passed away. Most of the nations were divided into three or more clans or tribes, each distinguished by the name of an animal. Thus the Huron Indians were divided into three tribes — those of the Bear, the Wolf, and the Turtle. The Chippeways, espe- cially, were divided into a considerable number of tribes. RELIGIOUS BELIEF. Though their language differs so greatly, as do many of their customs, their religious notions exhibit great uniformity throughout the whole country. They all possess a lielioi*, ^370) 3 84 RELIGIOUS BELIEF. though it is vague and indistinct, in the existence of a Su- preme, All-Powerful Being, and in the immortality of the soul, which, they suppose, restored to its body, will enjoy the future on those happy hunting-grounds which form the red man's heaven. They also worship numerous inferior deities or evil spirits, whom they endeavour to propitiate, under the supposition that unless they do so they may work them evil rather than good. They suppose that there is one god of the sun, moon, and stars ; that the ocean is ruled hy another god, and that storms are produced by the power of various malign beings ; yet that all are inferior to the Supreme Ruler of the universe. We can trace in some of the tribes customs and notions which have been derived from those of far dis- tant nations. Thus, the tribes of Louisiana kept a sacred fire constantly burning in their temples : the Natches, as did the Mexicans, Avorshipped the sun, from whom their chiefs pre- tended to be descended. Bv some tril>es human sacrifices were offered up, — a custom which was practised by the Pawnees and Indians of the Missouri even to a late period. Several of the tribes buried their dead beneath their houses ; and it was an universal custom among all to inter them in a matting po.sture, clothed in their best gamients, while their weapons and household utensils, with a suppty of food, were placed in their graves, to be used when they might be re- stored to life. Several of their traditions evidently refer to events recorded in Scripture history. The Algonquin tribes still preserve one pointing to the upheaval of the earth from the watei-s, and of a subsequent inundation. The Iroquois have a tradition of a general deluge ; while another tribe be- lieve not only that a deluge took place, but that there was an age of fire which destroyed all things, with the exception AMERICAN ANTIQUITIES. 85 of a man and woman, who were preserved in a cavern. Many similar traditions exist ; while it is i)robable that those mentioned refer to the destruction of the Cities of the Plain by fire which came down from heaven, and to the confusion of tongues which fell upon the descendants of Noah in the plain of Shinar. AMERICAN ANTIQUITIES. We are apt to suppose that the wild inhabitants of the New World have ever existed in the same savage state as that in which they are found. Vast numbers, how^ever, of remains, and buildings of great antiquity, have of late years been discovered, showing that at one time either their an- cestors, or other tribes who have passed away, had made great progress in civilization. As the white man has advanced westward, and dug deep into the soil, whilst forming railway- cuttings, digging wells, and other works, nmnerous interesting- remains have been discovered — a large number of fortified camps of vast extent, and even the foundations of cities, with their streets and squares, have been brought to light. Idols, pitchers of clay, ornaments of copper, circular medals, arrow- heads, and even mirrors of isinglass, in great numbers, have been found throughout the countr}^ Some of the articles ot pottery are skilfully wrought, and polished,, glazed, and burned ; inferior in no respects to those of Egypt and Babylon. In Tennessee, an earthen pitcher, holding a gallon, was dis- covered on a rock twenty feet below the surface. It was surmounted by the figure of a female head covered with a conical cap. The features greatly resembled those of Asiatics, and the ears, extending as low as the chin, were of great size. 36 AMKRICAX ANTIQUITIES. Near the Ciiinbeiiand River an idol formed of clay was found about four feet below the surface of the earth. It is of curious construction, consisting of three hollow heads joined together at the back by an inverted bell-shaped hollow stem. This specimen also has strongly-marked Asiatic features ; the red and yellow colour with which it is ornamented still retaining great brilliancy. Another idol, formed of clay and gypsum, was discovered near Nashville. It represented a human being without arms. The hair was plaited, and there was a band round the head with a flattened lump or cake upon the summit. Numerous medals, also, have been dug up, repre- senting the sun, with its rays of light, together with utensils and ornaments of copper, sometimes plated with silver ; and a solid silver cup, with its surface smooth and regular, and its interior finely gilt. But besides these, and very many similar articles, through- out the whole country, and especially toAvards the west, immense numbers of fortresses of great size have been discovered, with walls of earth, some of them ten feet in height, and thirty in breadth. There is a vast fortress in Ohio, near the town of Newark. It is situated on an exten- sive plain, at the junction of two branches of the Musking- um. At the western extremity of the work stood a circular fort, containing twenty-two acres, on one side of which was an elevation thirty feet high, partly of earth and partly of stone. The circular foi-t was connected by walls of earth with an octagonal fort containing forty acres, the walls of M'hich were ten feet high. At this end were eight openings or gateways about fifteen feet in width, each protected by a mound of earth on the inside. From thence four parallel walls of earth proceeded to the basin of the harbour, others AMERICAN ANTTQUTTIKS. 37 extendins: several miles into the country, and otliers on the east joined to a square fort containing twenty acres, not four miles distant. From this latter fort parallel walls ex- tended to the harbour, and others to another circular fort one mile and a half distant, containing twenty-six acres, and sur- rounded by an embankment from twenty-five to thirty feet high. Further north and east the elevated ground was pro- tected by intrenchments. Traces of other walls have been found, apparently connecting these works with those thirty miles distant. When we come to reflect that there were many hundreds of similar forts, some of which were of equal size, and others even of still greater magnitude, we cannot help believing that an enormous population, considerably advanced in the arts of civilization, must at one time have existed in the country, pver which for ages past the untutored savage has roamed in almost a state of nature. And now these wild tribes are rapidly disappearing before the advancement of a still greater multitude, and a far more perfect civilization. Whether these ancient races were the ancestors of the present Indians or not, it is difficult to determine, as are the causes of their disappear- ance. It is possible that, retreating southward, they established the empires of Mexico and Peru, or, overcome by more savage tribes, were ultimately exterminated. CHAPTER II. NORTH AMERICA CONSIDERED AS DIVIDED INTO FOUR ZONES, WITH THE VARIOUS OBJECTS OF INTEREST FOUND IN EACH. |HE North American continent may be divided into four zones or parallel regions, which, from the dif- ference in temperature which exists between them, pi'esent a great variety both in their fauna and tiora. THE FIRST ZONE. Commencing on the east, w^here the Greenland Sea washes the coast of Labrador, and Hudson Strait leads to the intri- cate channels communicating with the Arctic Ocean, we have ■on the first-named coast a low and level region, which rises inland to a considerable elevation, and then once more sinks on the shores of Hudson Bay. West of that bay there is a wide extent of low country, intermixed with numerous lakes and marshes ; and then along the Arctic shore is a wild, barren, treeless district, rising at length into the mountainous region of the Arctic highlands. Amid them numerous rapid streams find their way into the Arctic Ocean. Again they sink into the basin of the Mackenzie River, which separates them from the northern end of the Rocky Mountains. Hence THE SECOND ZONE, 39 westward to the Pacific is a broad highland region, rising into the lofty range of the Sea Alps. THE SECOND ZONE THE FERTILE BELT OF RUPERT's LAND. The next Zone we will consider as commencing at the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Westward extends an elevated region, rising in many places to a considerable height, and forming the water-shed of the rivers which flow on the south side into the St. Lawrence, and on the north into Hudson Bav. Proceedino; up the St. Lawrence, we ariive at a great lake district, which embraces Lakes Ontario, Erie, Huron, Michigan, and Superior, to the extreme west. On the north-western shores of that lake we And an elevated district with several small lakes and streams flowing through valleys. This is the water-shed also of two systems. The streams to the east, flowing into Lake Superior, ultimately enter the St. Lawrence ; while those to the west make their way into Lake Winnii)eg, the waters of which, after flowing through a variety of channels, fall into Hudson Ba}^ To the west of this water-shed range the flrst lake we meet with is known as the Lac des Milles Lacs. Two rivers flow from it, expanding here and there into small lakes, till another expanse of water is reached called Rainy Ijake. This in the same way communicates by two streams with the still larger Lake of the Woods, the whole region on both sides being thickly wooded. From the Lake of the Woods flows the broad and rapid Winnipeg River, which Anally falls into Lake Winnipeg. This large and long lake is con- nected with several others of smaller size,- — Lake Winnipegoos and Manitoba Lake to the west of it. Lito the southern end of Lake Winnipeg flows the Red River, which rises far away in the south in the United States, taking an almost direct -40 THR SF.COXD ZONE. northerly coui'se. Towards the north, about twenty miles from the lake, is situated the well-known Selkirk settlement. To the west of the Red River commences a broad belt of prairie land which extends here and there, rising into wooded heights and swelling hills, with several large rivers flowing through it, to the very base of the Rocky Mountains. As we aelvance westward we find it extending considerably to the noith, where the large and wide river Saskatchewan, rising in the Rocky Mountains, flows eastward into Lake Winnipeg. Alono^ the southern border of this reoion the Assiniboine River, also of considerable size, flows into the Red River at Fort Garry, in the Selkirk settlement. The prairie country indeed extends further than the Red River, up to the Lake of the Woods. The name of the Fertile Belt has been pro- perly given to it. Commencing at the Lake of the Woods, it stretches westward for 800 miles, and averages from 80 to upwards of 100 miles in width. The area of this extra- ordinary belt of rich soil and pasturage is about 40,000,000 of acres. Including the adjacent fertile districts, the area may be estimated at not less than 80,000 square miles, or considerably more fertile land than the whole of Canada is supposed to contain. It rises gradually towards the west, so that the traveller is surprised to find how speedily he has gained the passes which lead him over the Rocky Mountains into the territory of British Columbia on their western side — often indeed before he has realized tire fact that he has crossed the boundary-line. The Fertile Belt is considerably more to the south than the British Islands, though, as the western hemisphere is subject to greater alternations of heat and cold than the eastern, there is a vast difference in temperature between the summer and winter. While in winter the whole ANnrAL LIFE ON THE EEHTILE P.KI .1'. 41 jeoion is covered thickly witli snow, in sunnner the heat is so great that Indian corn and other cereals, as well as all fruits, ripen with great rapidity. The whole of this fertile region, which now forms part of the Canadian Dominion, is about to be opened to colonization ; and through it will be carried the great high road Avhich will connect the British -Drovinces on the Pacific with those of the Atlantic. ANIMAL LIFE ON THE FERTILE BELT. Throughout this fine region range large herds of buffalo, — not extending their migrations, however, beyond its northern boundary. Here, too, are found two kind of small deer — the wapiti, and the prong-horned antelope. Hares — called rabbits, liowever — exist in great numbers. Porcupines are frequently found. The black bear occasionally comes out of the neigh- bouring forests, while a great variety of birds frequent the lakes and streams, whose waters also swarm with numerous fish. The white fish found in the lakes are much esteemed, and weigh from two or three to seven pounds. There are fine pike also. Sturgeon are caught in Lake Winnipeg and the Lower Saskatchewan of the weight of 1 GO pounds. Trout grow to a great size, and there are gold-eyes, suckers, and cat-fish. Unattractive as are the names of the two last, the fish them- selves are excellent. Among the birds, Professor Hind men- tions prairie-hens, plovers, various ducks, loons, and other aquatic birds, besides the partridge, quail, whip-poor-will, hairy woodpecker, Canadian jay, blue jay, Indian hen, and wood- cock. In the mountain region are big-horns and mountain goats ; the grizzly bear often descends from his rugged heights into the plains, and afibrds sport to the daring hunter. The musk-rat and beaver inhabit the borders of the lakes. The 42 THE THIRD ZOXE. cariboo and moose frequent the Fertile Belt, though the musk- ox confines himself to the more northern regions. Wolves have been almost exterminated in the neighbourhood of the Red River settlement. The half-breeds and Indians possess peculiarly hardy and sagacious horses, which are trained for hunting the bufialo. Their dogs are large and powerful, and four of them will draw a sleigh with one man over the snow at the rate of six miles an hour. Herds of cattle, as well as horses and hogs, are left out during the whole winter, it being necessary only — should a thaw come on, succeeded by a frost — to supply them with food ; otherwise, unable to break through the coating of ice thus formed, they are liable to starve. The farmers of the Red River settlement grow wheat, barley, oats, flax, hemp, hops, turnips, and even tobacco, though Indian corn grows best, and can always be relied on. Wheat, however, is the staple crop of Red River. It is a splendid country for sheep pasturage, and did easier means of transport- ing the wool exist, or could it be made into cloth or blankets in the settlement, no doubt great attention would be given to the rearing of sheep. THE THIRD ZONE-— THE DISMAL SAVAMP IN THE UNITED STATES, Returnino; aoain to the east coast, about the latitude of Chesapeake Bay and Cape Hatteras, we find a low level region known as the Atlantic plain, running parallel to the coast, on which the long-leaved or peach-pines flourish. This region is generally called the Pine BaiTens. Wild vines encircle the trees, and among them are seen the white hemes of the mistletoe. In winter these Pine Barrens retain much of their verdure, and constitute one of the marked features of the THE THIED ZONE. 43 country. Amid them are numerous swamps or morasses. One of great size, extending to not less than forty miles from north to south, and twenty-live in its greatest width, is called the Great Dismal Swamp. The soil, black as in a peat-bog, is covered with all kinds of aquatic trees and shrubs ; yet, strange to say, instead of being lower than the level of the surrounding country, it is in the centre higher than towards its margin ; indeed, from three sides of the swamp the waters actually flow into different rivers at a considerable rate. Probably the centre of the morass is not less than twelve feet above the flat country around it. Here and there some ridges of dry land appear, like low islands, above the general surface. On the west, however, the ground is higher, and streams flow into the swamj), but they are free from sediment, and consequently bring down no liquid mire to add to its substance. The soil is formed completely of vegetable matter, without any admixture of earthy particles. In many even of the softest parts juniper- trees stand firmly fixed by their long tap roots, affording a dark shade, beneath which numer- ous ferns, reeds, and shrubs, together with a thick carpet of mosses, flourish, protected from the rays of the sun. Here and there also large cedars and other deciduous trees have grown up. The black soil formed beneath, increased by the rottmg vegeta- tion, is quite unlike the peat of Europe, as the plants become so decayed as to leave no traces of organization. Frequently the trees are overthrown, and numbers are found lying beneath the surface of the soil, where, covered with water, they never decompose. So completely preserved are they, that they are frequently sawn uj) into planks. In one part of the Dismal Swamp there is a lake seven miles in length, and more than five wide, with a forest growing on its banks. The water is 4t FOSSIL FOOTMARKS OF BIRDS. transparent, though tinged with a pale brown colour, and contains numerous fish. The region is inhabited by a number of bears, who climb the trees in search of acorns and giim- berries, breakino- off the bouohs of the oaks in order to obtain the acorns ; these bears also kill hogs, and even cows. Occa- sionally a solitary wolf is seen prowling over the morass, and wild cats also clamber amid its woods. Even in summer, the air, instead of being hot and pestiferous, is especially cool, the evaporation continually going on in the wet spongy soil generating an atmosphere resembling that of a region consider- ably elevated above the level of the ocean. Canals have been cut through this swamp. They are shaded by tall trees, their branches almost joining across, and throwing a dark shade on the water, which itself looks almost black, and adds to the gloom of the region. Emerging from one of these avenues into the bright sunlit lake, the aspect of the scenery is like that of some beautiful fairyland. FOSSIL FOOTMARKS OF BIRDS. A considerable way to the north of this region, on the banks of the Connecticut River, are beds of red sandstone, on the different layers of which are found the footmarks of long extinct birds. The beds in some parts are twenty-five feet in thickness, composed of layer upon layer ; and on each of these layers, when horizontally split, are found imprinted these remarkable footmarks. This result could only have been produced by the subsidence of the ground, fresh deposi- tions of sand having taken place on the layers, on which the birds walked after the subsidence. They must have been of various sizes, — some no larger than a small sand-piper, while others, judging from their footprints, which measure no less FOSSIL FOOTMAKKS OF BIRDS. 15 than nineteen inches, must have been twice the size of the modern African ostrich. The distances between the smaller measnre only about three inches, but in the case of the largest, called the Ornithichnites gigas, they are from four to six feet apart. In some places Avhere the birds have congregated together none of the steps can be distinctly traced, but at a short distance from this area the tracks become more and FOSSIL FOOTMARKS OF lilKUS. more distinct. Upwards of two thousand such footprints have been observed, made probably by nearly thirty distinct species of birds, all indented on the upper surface of tlie strata, and only exhibiting casts in relief on the under side of the beds which rested on such indented surfaces. In other ])laces the marks of rain and hail which fell countless a^'es ao-o are clearly visible. Sir Charles Lyell perceived similar footprints iu the 46 THE BIG-BONE LICK. led mud in tlie Bay of Fundy, which had just been formed by sand-pipers ; and on examining an inferior layer of mud, formed several tides before, and covered up by fresh sand, he discovered casts of impressions similar to those made on the last -formed layer of mud. Near the footsteps he observed the mark of a single toe, occurring occasionally, and quite isolated from the rest. It was suo^o-ested to him that these marks were formed by waders, which, as they fly near the t^round, often let one leo- hano- down, so that the lono^est toe touches the surface of the mud occasionally, leaving a single mark of this kind. He brought away some slabs of the recently formed mud, in order that naturalists who were sceptical as to the real origin of the ancient fossil ornithich- nites might compare the fossil products lately formed with those referable to the feathered bipeds which preceded the era of the ichthyosaurus and iguanodon. THE BIG-BONE LICK. We will now cross the Alleghanies westward, where we shall find a thickly-wooded country. As we proceed onwards, entering Kentucky, we reach a spot of great geological interest, called the Big-bone Lick. These licks exist in various parts of the country. They are marshy swamps in which saline springs break out, and are frequented by buffalo, deer, and other wild animals, for the sake of the salt with which in the summer they are incrusted, and which in winter is dis- solved in the mud. Wild beasts, as well as cattle, gTeedily devour this incrustation, and will burrow into the clay im- pregnated with salt in order to lick the mud. In the Big- bone Lick of Kentucky the bones of a vast number of masto- dons and other extinct quadrupeds have been dug up. THE BIG-BONE LU'K. 47 This celebrated bog is situated in a nearly level plain, ))Ounded by gentle slopes, which lead up to wide-extended table-lands. In the spots where the salt springs rise, the bog- is so soft that a man may force a pile into it many yards per- pendicularly. Some of these quaking bogs are even now more than fifteen acres in extent, but were formerly much larger, before the surrounding forest was partially cleared away. Even at the present day cows, horses, and other (quadrupeds are occasionally lost here, as they venture on to the treacherous ground. It may be easily understood, there- tore, how the vast mastodons, elephants, and other huge animals lost their lives. In their eagerness to drink the saline waters, or lick the salt, those in front, hurrying forward, would have been pressed upon by those behind, and thus, before they were aware of their danger, sank helplessly into the quagmire. It is supposed that the bones of not less than one hundred mas- todons and twenty elephants have been dug up out of the bog, besides which the bones of a stag, extinct horse, megalonyx, and bison, have been obtained. Undoubtedly, therefore, this plain has remained unchanged in all its principal features since the period when these vast extinct quadrupeds inhabited the banks of the Ohio and its tributaries. Here and there the Big-bone Lick is covered with mud, washed over it by some unusual rising of the Ohio River, which is known to swell sixty feet above its summer level. Passing on through wide-spreading prairies, we cross the mighty stream of the Mississippi to a slightly elevated district of broad savannahs, till we reach a treeless region bordering the very foot of the Rocky Mountains. Through this region numerous rivers pass on their way to the Mississippi. Leav- ing at length the great western plain, we begin to mount the 48 THE FOURTH ZONE. slopes of the Rocky Mountains, when we may gaze ujjwards at the lofty snow-covered peaks above our heads. Hence, crossing the mighty range in spite of grizzly bears and wilder Indians, we descend towards the bank of the Rio Colorado, which falls into the Gulf of California, and thence over a mountainous region, some of whose heights, as Mount Dana, reach an elevation of 13,000 feet, and Mount Whitney, 15,000 feet. THE FOURTH ZONE. The southernmost of the four zones begins on the coast of Florida, passes for hundreds of miles over a low or gently sloping country toward the gTeat western plains which border the Rocky Mountains into Texas ; its southei-n boundary being the Gulf of Mexico. Through this region flow numerous rivers, the queen of which is the Mississippi. The western portion is often wild and barren in the extreme, inhabited only by bands of wild and savage Indians. The Rocky Mountains being passed, there is a lofty table-land, and then rise the Sierras de los Nimbres and Madre ; beyond which, bordering the Gulf of California, is the wild, grandly pictur- esque province of Sonora, with its gigantic trees and stalactite caves. CHAPTER III THE PRAIRIES, PLAINS OF THE WEST, AND PASSES OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. |0 obtain, however, a still more correct notion of tlie appearance of the continent, wq must take another glance over it. We shall discover, to the north, and throughout the eastern portion where civilized man has not been at work clearing away the trees, a densely -wooded region. Proceeding westward, as the valley of the Mississippi is ap- proached the underwood disappears, and oak openings pre- dominate. These Oak Openings, as they are called, are groves of oak and other forest trees which are not connected, but are scattered over the surface at a considerable distance from one another, witliout any low shrub or underbrush between them. THE prairies. Thus, gradually, we are entering the prairie country, which extends as far west as the Grand Coteau of the Missouri. This prairie region is covered with a rich growth of grass ; the soil is extremely fertile, and capable of producing a variety of cereals. Over the greater portion of the prairie country, indeed, forests of aspens would grow, did not annual fires in (397j ^ 50 THE PEAIRIES. most parts arrest their progress. Here and there numbers have sprung up. The true pranie region in the United States extends over the eastern part of Ohio, Indiana, the southern portion of Michigan, the southern part of Wisconsin, nearly the whole of the states of Illinois and Iowa, and the northern portion of Missouri, gradually passing — in the territories of Kansas and Nebraska — into that arid and desert region known as The Plains, which lie at the base of the Rocky Mountains. The Grand Coteau de Missouri forms a natural boundary to these arid plains. This vast table-land rises to the height of from 400 to 800 feet above the Missouri. Vegetation is very scanty ; the Indian turnip, however, is common, as is also a species of cactus. No tree or shrub is seen ; and only in the bottoms or in marshes is a i-ank herbage found. Across these desert regions the trails of the emigrant bands passing to the Far West have often been marked : first, in the east, by fur- niture and goods abandoned ; further west, by the waggons and carts of the ill-starred travellers ; then by the bones of oxen and horses bleaching on the plain ; and, finally, by the gi'aves, and sometimes the unburied bodies, of the emigrants themselves, the survivors having been compelled to push onwards with the remnant of their cattle to a more fertile region, where provender and water could be procured to restore their well-nigh exhausted strength. Oftentimes they have been attacked by bands of mounted Indians, whose war-whoop has startled them from their slumbers at night ; and they have been compelled to fight their way onwards, day after day assailed by their savage and persevering foes. Civilized man is, however, triumphant at last, and the steam-engine, on its iron path, now travei-ses that wild region from cast to west at rapid speed ; and the red men, who THE PKArKIES. 51 claim to be lords of tlie soil, have been driven back into the uiore remote wilderness, or compelled to succumb to the INDIANS ATTACKING AN EMIGRANT TRAIN. superior power of the invader, in many instances being utterly exterminated. Still, north and south of that iron line the country resembles a desert ; and the wild Indian roams as of yore, Hke the Arab of the East — his hand against every man, and every man's hand against him. 52 THE PKAIRIES. Among the dangers to which the traveller across the prauie is exposed, the most fearful is that of fire. The sky is bright overhead ; the tall grass, which has abeady assumed a yellow tinge from the heat of summer, waves round him, affording abundant pasture to his steed. Suddenly his guides rise in theii^ stirrups and look anxiously towards the horizon. He sees, perhaps, a white column of smoke rising in the clear air. It is so far off that it seems it can but little concern them. The guides, however, think differently, and after a moment's consultation point eagerly in the direction of some broad river, whose waters flow towards the Mississippi. '' Oward ! onward!" is the cry. They put spurs to their horses' flanks, and gallop for their lives. Every instant the column of smoke increases in width, till it extends directly across the horizon. It gTows denser and denser. Now above the tall OTass flashes of brio-ht lio-ht can be seen. The traveller almost fancies he can hear the crackling of the flames as they seize all combustible substances in their course. Now they smTOund a grove of aspens, and the fierce fire blazes up more brightly than ever towards the sky, over which hangs a dark canopy of smoke. Suddenly a distant tramp of feet is heard. The very ground trembles. A dark mass approaches — a phalanx of horns and streaming manes. It is a herd of buffaloes, turned by the fire purposely ignited by the Indians. The guides urge the travellers to increase their speed ; for if overtaken by the maddened animals, they will be struck down and trampled to death. Happily they escape the surging herd which comes sweeping onward — thousands of dark forms pressed together, utterly regardless of the human beings who have so narrowly escaped them. The travellers gaUop on till their eyes are gladdened by the THE PKAIKIES. 55 sight of the flowing waters of a river. They rush down the bank. Perchance the stream is too i-apid or too deep to be forded. At the water's edge they at length dismount, \A'hen the Indians, drawing forth flint and steel, set fire to the grass on the bank. The smoke well-nigh stifles them, but the flames pass on, clearing an open space ; and now, crouching down to the water's edge, they see the fearful conflagration rapidly approaching. The fire they have created meets the flames which have been raging far and wide across the region. And now the wind carries the smoke in dense masses over their heads ; but their lives are saved — and at length they may venture to ride along the banks, over the still smoulder- ing embers, till a ford is reached, and they may cross the river to where the grass still flourishes in rich luxuriance. While, on one side of the stream, charred trees are seen rising oat of the blackened ground, on the other all is green and smiling. These fearful prairie fires, by which thousands of acres of grass and numberless forests have been destroyed, are almost always caused by the thoughtless Indians, either for the sake of turning the herds of bufl^aloes towards the direction they desire them to take, or else for signals made as a sign to distant allies. Sometimes travellers have carelessly left a camp-fire still burning, when the wind has cari'ied the blazing embers to some portion of the surround- ing dry herbage, and a fearful conflagration has been the result. Mr. Paul Kane, the Canadian artist and travellei", mentions one which he witnessed from Fort Edmonton. The wind was blowing a perfect hurricane when the conflagration was seen sweeping over the prairie, across which they had passed but a few hours before. Tlie night was intensely dark, add- 56 THE BARREN PLAINS IN THE FAR WEST. ing effect to the brilliancy of the flames, and making the scene look truly terrific. So fiercely did the flames rage, that at one time it was feared the fire would cross the river to the side on which the fort is situated, in which case it and all within must have been destroyed. The inmates also had had many apprehensions for the safety of one of their party, from whom, with his Indians, Mr. Kane had parted some time before, and who had not yet arrived. For three clays they were uncertain of his fate, when at length their anxiety was relieved by his appearance. He had noticed the fire at a long distance, and had immediately started for the nearest bend in the river. This, by great exertion, he had reached in time to escape the flames, and had succeeded in crossing. THE BARREN PLAINS IN THE FAR WEST. On the prairies of the east the eye ranges over a wide expanse of waving grass, everywhere like the sea. As, cross- ing the plains, we proceed west towards the vast range of the Rocky Mountains, the country gives evidence of the violent and irregular disturbances to which it has been sub- jected. Wild rocky ridges crop out from the sterile plains of sand ; and for hundreds of miles around the country is desert, dry, and barren. Even the vegetation, such as it is, is of the same unattractive character. The gi^ound here and there is covered with patches of the gTay gTamma grass, growing in little cork-screw curls ; and there is a small furzy plant, the under sides of the leaves of which are covered w^ith a white down, while occasionally small orange-coloured flowers are seen struggling into existence. There are insects, however. Ants swarm in all directions, building cones a foot in height. Grasshoppers in myriads, THE BARREN PLAINS IN THE FAR WEST. 57 with red wings and legs, fly through the air — the only bright objects in the landscape. Sometimes the reddish-brown cricket is seen. Even the Platte Kiver, which flows through this region, partakes of its nature. It seems to consist of a saturated solution of sand : when a handful is taken up, a gray mud of silex remains in the palm. Dry as this gramma grass appears, it possesses nutritive qualities, as the animals which feed on it abundantly prove. Storms break over these plains with tremendous fury : the thunder roars, the lightning wdiich flashes from the clouds illumines earth and sky with a brightness surpassing the cloudless noon. Then ao;ain utter darkness covers the earth, when suddenly a column of light appears, like the trunk of some tall pine, as the electric fluid passes from the upper to the lower res^ions of the world. The next instant its blazino- summit breaks into splinters on every side. Occasionally fearful hail-storms sweep over the plains ; and at other times the air from the south comes heated, as from a furnace, dry- ing up all moisture from the skin, and parching the traveller's tongue with thirst. Here and there are scattered pools of water containing large quantities of salts, soda, and potash, from drinking which numbers of cattle perish. The track of emigrants is strewn for many miles with bleaching heads, whole skeletons, and putrefying carcasses — the result of the malady thus pro- duced, in addition to heat and overdriving. Even the tra- veller suflers greatly, feeling as if he had swallowed a quantity of raw soda. Yet often in this generally desert region, where the rivers wind their way through the plain, or wide pools of pure water mirror the blue sky, scenes of great beauty are presented. 58 THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. Nothing can surpass the rosy hues which tinge the heavens at sunrise. Here game of all sorts is found. The lakes swarm with mallards, ducks, and a variety of teal. Herds of antelopes cross the plain in all directions, and vast herds of bufialo darken the horizon as they sweep by in theii' migrations. THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. At length a blue range, which might be taken for a lising vapour, appears in the western horizon. It is the first sight the traveller obtains of the long-looked-for Rocky Mountains ; yet he has many a weary league to pass before he is among them, and dangers not a few before he can descend their western slopes. At length he finds himself amid masses of dark brown rocks, not a patch of green appearing ; mountain heights rising westward, one beyond the other; and far away, where he might suppose the plains were again to be found, still there rises before him a region of everlastino- snow. For many days he may go on, now climbing, now descending, now flanking piles of rocks, and yet not till fully six days are passed is he able to say that he has crossed that mountain- range. Indeed, the term " range " scarcely describes the sys- tem of the Rocky Mountains. It is, in fact, a chain, com- })Osed of numerous links, with vast plains rising amid them. PARKS. These ranges in several places thin out, as it were, leav- ing a large tract of level country completely embosomed in snowy ridges in the very heart of the system. These plains are known as " parks." They are found throughout the range. Several of them are of vast extent, — the four principal ones forming the series called, in their order, PARKS. 61 "North/' ''Middle," "South," and "St. Louis" Parks. Portions of them, thoroughly irrigated, remain beautifully green throughout the year, and herbage over the whole region is abundant. Sheltered from the blasts to which the lower plains are exposed, these parks enjoy an equable climate ; and old hunters, who have camped in them for many seasons, describe life there as an earthly paradise. They abound in animals of all sorts. Elk, deer, and antelope feed on their rich grasses. Hither also the puma follows its prey, and there are several other creatures of the feline tribe. Bears, w^olves, and foxes likewise range across them. In some of them herds of buffalo pass their lives; for, unlike their brethren of the plain, they are not migratory. It is doubtful whether or not they are of the same species, but they are said to be larger and fiercer. The appropriate designation of the Rocky Mountain-system is that of a chain. On crossing one of its basins or plateaux, the traveller finds himself within a link such as has just been de- scribed. A break in one of these links is called a " pass," or "canon." As he passes through this break he enters another link, belonging to another parallel either of a higher or lower series. In some of the minor plateaux between the snowy ridges no vegetation appears. Granite and sandstone rocks outcrop even in the general sandy level, rising bare and per- pendicularly from 50 to 300 feet ; as a late traveller de- scribes it, " looking like a mere clean skeleton of the world." Nothing is visible but pure rock on every side. Vast stones lie heaped up into pyramids, as if they had been rent from the sky. Cubical masses, each covering an acre of surface, and reaching to a perpendicular height of thirty or forty feet, suggest the buttresses of some gigantic palace, whose super- 62 THE SAGE COCK. structure has crumbled away with the race of its Titanic builders. It is these regions especially which have given the mighty range the appropriate name of the Rocky Mountains: THE SAGE COCK. In some spots, the limitless wastes are covered by a scrubby plant known as mountain sage. It rises from a tough gnarled root in a number of spiral shoots, which finally form a single trunk, varying in circumference from six inches to two feet. The leaves are gray, with a strong offensive smell resembling true sage. In other places there appear mixed with it the e(][ually scrubby but somewhat gTeener grease-wood — the two resinous shrubs affording the only fuel on which the emigTant can rely while following the Rocky Mountain trail. These sage reoions are the habitation of a maonificent bird — the Sage Cock. He may well be called the King of the grouse tribe. When stalking erect through the sage, he looks as large as a good-sized wild turkey — his average length being, indeed, about thii'ty-two inches, and that of the hen two feet. They differ somewhat, according to the season of the year. The prevailing colour is that of a yellowish-brown or warm gray, mottled with darker brown, shading from cinna- mon to jet black. The dark spots are laid on in a longi- tudinal series of crescents. The under parts are a light gTay, sometimes almost pure white, barred with streaks of brown, or pied with black patches. In the elegance of his figure and fineness of his outlines he vies with the golden pheasant. His tail differs from that of the grouse family in general by coming to a point instead of opening like a fan. On each side of his neck he has a bare orange-coloured spot, and near it a downy epaulet. His call is a rapid ''Cut, cut, cut!" THE SAGE COCK. G3 followed l>y a hollow blowing sound. He lias the partridge's habit of drumming with his Avings, while the hen-bird knows the trick of misleading the enemy from her young brood. He seldom rises from the ground^ his occasional flights being low, short, and laboured. He runs with great speed, and in his favourite habitat dodges and skulks with rapidity, favoured by the resemblance of his colour to the natural tints of the scrub. Though sometimes called the Cock of the Plains, he never descends into the plains, being always found on the higher mountain regions. When the snow begins to melt, the sage hen builds in the bush a nest of sticks and reeds artistically matted together, and lays from a dozen to twenty eggs, rather larger than those of the domestic fowl, of a tawny colour, irregularly marked with chocolate blotches on the larger end. When a brood is strong enough to travel, the parents lead their young into general society. They are excessively tame, or bold. Often they may be seen strutting between the gnarled trunk and ashen masses of foliage peculiar to the sage scrub, and paying no more attention to the traveller than would a barn- yard drove of turkeys ; the cocks now and then stopping to play the dandy before their more Quakerly little hens, in- flating the little yellow pouches of skin on either side of their necks, till they globe out like the pouches of a pigeon. WINTER SCENE AMONG THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. Descending the precipitous slopes of the Rocky Mountains on the west, we enter on a vast plain no less than 2 ()()() miles in length, though comparatively narrow — the great basin of California and Oreo on. Its oreatest width, from the Sierra Nevada to the Rocky Mountains, is nearly GOO miles, 64 WINTER SCENE AMONG THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. but is generally much less. The largest lake found on it is 4200 feet above the level of the sea, and is connected with the Salt Lake of Utah. The mean elevation of the plain is about GOOO feet above the sea. A mountain-chain runs across it, and through it flows the large Colorado River, amidst gorges of the most picturesque magnificence. If the scenes we have described are stern and forbidding in "summer, how much more so are they in winter, when icy blasts blow through the canons, and masses of snow cover the ground. From one of the outer spurs on the east, let us take a glance over the region. Behind us rises the chain of the Rocky Mountains, the whole intermediate country, as well as the mountains themselves, except where the precipitous rocks forbid it, being covered thickly with snow. Rugged peaks and ridges, snow-clad and covered with pines, and deep gorges filled with broken rocks, everywhere meet the eye. To the east, the mountains gradually smooth away into high spurs and broken ground, till they join the wide-spreading plains, generally stretching far as the eye can reach, and hun- dreds of miles beyond— a sea of barrenness, vast and dismal. A hurricane blows clouds of white snowy dust across the desert, resemblino; the smoke of bonfires, roarinij: and ravino- through the pines on the mountain-top, filling the air with snow and broken branches, and piling it in huge drifts against the trees. The perfect solitude of this vast wilderness is appalling. From our lofty post on the mountain-top, we obtain a view over the rugged and chaotic masses of the stupendous chain, and the vast deserts which stretch away far from its eastern base ; while on all sides are broken ridges and chasms and ravines, with masses of piled-up rocks and uprooted trees, THE HORNED FlIOG. 65 with clouds of drifting snow flying through the air, and the hurricane's roar battlino- throuo-h the forest at our feet adding^ to the wildness of the scene, which is unrelieved by the slio'htest vestio^e of animal or human life. THE HORNED FROG. We must now pass in review some of the numerous animals which inhabit these regions. In some of the mountain pla- teaux, among the cactuses and sand-heaps, we find that singu- larly-made animal known vulgarly as the Texan toad or horned frog — a name which in no way properly belongs to him, as he is more nearly related to the lizards and sala- manders. He lives as contentedly on the hot baked prairies of Texas, as amongst their snow-surrounded heights ; though, from his appearance, we should expect to see him basking under a semi-tropical sun, rather than in this region. Yet here he lives, and must often have to spend much of his time under the snow. These toads, as the creatures are called, have brown backs, white bellies, small twinkling black eyes, set in almond-shaped slits, enclosed by two dark marks of the same shape. This has the eftect of enlarging the eye, and giving it a soft look like that of the antelope. The two retro-curved horns, which rise out of bony sockets above the eyes, add still more to this odd resemblance. The skin of the back and the lono- stifl" tail, instead of beino- warted like the true toad's upper surface, is set with thorny excrescences. That of the lower surface is a dry tough tissue, almost horny. Whether this armour is given him to defend himself from the rattlesnake, it is difficult to say. The crea- ture itself is of a peaceable disposition ; and so unwilling is he to fight, that he will allow himself to be taken in the hand, (397) 5 66 FUR-TEAPPERS OF THE FAR WEST. and if placed on it directly after capture, he will not attempt to get away. It is very easy to catch him in the first place, for his movements over the loose sand of his haunts are scarcely faster than those of a land tortoise. The trappers and other scattered inhabitants of this region describe a fish with hands as frequenting the brooks and pools. Though there are, no doubt, some curious fish, it is question- able how far these creatures possess the members ascribed to them. FUR-TRAPPERS OF THE FAR WEST. The fur-trapper of America is the chief pioneer of the Far West. His life spent in the remote wilderness, with no other companion than Nature herself, his character assumes a mix- ture of simplicity and ferocity. He knows no wants beyond the means of jDrocuring sufficient food and clothing. All the instincts of primitive man are constantly kept alive. Exposed to dangers of all sorts, he becomes callous to them, and is as ready to destroy human as well as animal life as he is to expose his own. He cares nothing for laws, human or divine. Strong, active, hardy, and daring, he depends on his instinct for the support of life. The independent trapper possesses traps and animals of his own, ranges wherever he lists through the country, and dis- poses of his peltries to the highest bidder. There are others employed by the fur companies, who supply them with traps and animals, and pay a certain price for the furs they bring. The independent trapper equips himself with a horse and two or three mules — the one for the saddle, the others for his packs — and a certain number of traps, which he carries in a leather bag, with ammunition, a few pounds of tobacco, and dressed deer-skins for his mocassins and repairing his gar- FUR-TRAPPERS OF THE FAR WEST. 67 ments. His costume is a hunting-shirt of dressed buckskin, ornamented with long fringes ; pantaloons of the same mate- rial, decorated with porcupine quills and long fringes down the outside of the leg. He has mocassins on his feet, and a flexible felt hat on his head. Over his left shoulder and under his right arm hang his powder-horn and bullet-pouch, with flint, steel, and other articles, in a bag. A belt round the waist secures a large knife in a sheath of buffalo hide to a steel chain, as also a case of buckskin, containing a whet- stone. In his belt is also stuck a tomahawk, a pipe-holder hangs round his neck, and a long heavy rifle is slung over his shoulder. -"^*>^. Arrived on the hunting-ground, as soon as the ice has broken up he follows the creeks and streams, keeping a look- out for the signs of beavers. As soon as he discovers one, he sets his trap, secured to a chain fastened to a stake or tree, baiting it with the tempting castoreum. He is ever on the watch for the neighbourhood of Indians, who try to outwit him, though generally in vain, to steal his traps and beavers. His eye surveys the surrounding country, and instantly de- tects any sign of his foes. A leaf turned down, the slightly pressed gi'ass, the uneasiness of the wild animals, tlie flight of birds, all tell him that other human beings are in the neigh- bourhood. Sometimes, after he has set his traps and is re- turning to his camp, the wily Indian who has been watching follows, and a home-drawn arrow, shot within a few feet, never fails to bring the hapless victim to the ground. For one white scalp, however, that dangles in the smoke of an Indian's lodge, a dozen black ones surround the camp-fires of the trappers' rendezvous. Here, after the hunt, from all quarters the hardy trappers bring in their packs of beaver 68 MAMMOTH CAVE OF KENTUCKY. to meet the purchasers, sometimes to the value of a thousand dollars each. The traders sell their goods at enormous profits ; and the thoughtless trapper, indulging in the fire-water from which he has long abstained, is too often induced to gamble away the gold for which he has risked life and gone through so many hardshijis. When all is gone, he gets credit for an- other equipment, and sets off alone, often to return and repeat the same process, although the profits of one or two success- ful hunts would enable him to stock a farm and live amono- civilized men. WONDERS OF NATURE. MAMMOTH CAVE OF KENTUCKY. There are many other vronders of Nature in different ]iarts of Noi'th America well ^^^ol"thy of more notice than we can THE DKAUSKA, MAMMOTU CAVE MAMMOTH CAVE OF KENTUCKY. 69 'W fe •4' K 'W^-^ > a; Several streams pass through the cavern, down the sides of which rush numerous cataracts. Some of these streams, OIL SPRINGS. 71 which are of considerable depth and width, are inhabited by shoals of eyeless fish, the organs of sight being superfluous in a region doomed to eternal night. The atmosphere of this huge cave is peculiarly dry, and is supposed to be extremely serviceable to persons afflicted with pulmonary complaints. To visit any considerable portion of the cavern would occupy us at least a couple of days. It is calculated there are no less than two hundred and twenty-six avenues, forty- seven domes, numerous rivers, eight cataracts, and twenty- three pits, — many of which are grand in the extreme. Some of the rivers are navigated by boats, and, as may be supposed, they have obtained appropriate names. Here we find the Dead Sea and the River Styx. One of the streams disappears beneath the ground, and then rises again in another portion of the cavern. But after all, as naturalists, the little eyeless fish should chiefly claim our attention. OIL SPRINGS. As coal was stored up for the use of man, formed in ages past from the giant vegetation which then covered the face of the earth, so the Creator has caused to be deposited in sub- terranean caverns large quantities of valuable oil, which not only serves man for light, but is useful to him for many other purposes. Whether that oil was produced from animal or vegetable substances, appears, even now, a matter of dispute. Some naturalists suppose that vast numbers of oil-giving creatures had been assembled in the districts in which these oil Avells are now found, and the oil was pressed out of them by a superincumbent weight of rock. Others assert that the same result might be produced from a vast mass of oil-giving vege- 72 OIL SPEINGS. tation having been crushed by a similar process. Be that as it may, in several parts of the States, as well as in Canada, enormous pits exist full of this curious oil. It is obtained by boring in the ground in those spots where the oil is likely to A. ROCK-OIL SPRING. be found. Often, however, the speculator, after spendino- time and capital in the experiment, finds that no oil appears at his call. In some spots, where it was first discovered, after the - MAMMOTH TREES AND CAVERNS OF C!ALAVERAS. 73 boring was completed, some hundreds of tons flowed up so rapidly, that it was difficult to find casks sufficient to preserve the produce. The whole region round is impregnated wdth the odour of the oil. Long teams of waggons come laden with casks of oil on the roads approaching the wells. Sheds for repairing the casks, and storing the oil, are ranged around. Every one gives indubitable signs by their appearance of their occupation, while rock-oil, as it is called, is the only subject of conversation in the neighbourhood. MAMMOTH TREES AND CAVERNS OF CALAVERAS. Gigantic as are the trees found in many of the eastern forests of America, they are far surpassed by groves of pines discovered a few years back in the southern parts of California. They are found in small groves together — in some places only three or four of the more gigantic in size ; in others, as many as thirty or forty, one vying with the other in height and girth. In one grove, upwards of one hundred trees were found, of great size, twenty of which were about seventy-five feet in circumference. One of these trees, of greater size than its companions, was sacrilegiously cut down. Its height was 302 feet, and its circumference, at the ground, 96 feet. As it was impossible to cut it down, it was bored oflf with pump-augers. This work employed five men for twenty-two days. Even after the stem was fairly severed from the stump, the uprightness of the tree and breadth of its base sustained it in its position, and two days were employed in inserting wedges and driving them in ; but at length the noble monarch of the forest was forced to tremble, and then to fall, after braving the battle and the breeze for nearly three thousand winters. 74 MAMMOTH TEEES AND CAVERNS OF CALAVERAS. Many of the trees have received appropriate names. One has fallen, and has been hollowed out by fire. Through it a person can ride on horse- back for sixty feet. Its es- timated height, when stand- ing, was 330 feet, and its circumference, 97 feet. An- other of these giants is known as Hercules. It is 320 feet high, and 95 feet in circumference. Perhaps the most beautiful group is that of three trees known as the Three Graces. Each of them measures 92 feet in circumference at the base ; and in height they are nearly equal, measuring 295 feet. Time was when, per- haps, the whole forest con- sisted of trees of the same size ; but many have been destroyed by fire, and the time ma}^ come when none of those now standing will remain. The name of Well- ingtonia has been given to the species. In the same region are numerous magnificent stalactite caverns, which equal in beauty, if not in size, those of the Mammoth Cave of Kentucky. MAMMOTH TREE OF CALIFORNIA. MAMMOTH TREES AND CAVERNS OF CALAVERAS. /o There are several waterfalls, unsurpassed for picturesque beauty. YOSEMITE FALL, CALIFORNIA. Had we time, we might pay a visit also to the gold-mines of California, and observe the way they are worked; but we should be prevented from giving that attention to the animal creation which is our present object. CHAPTER IV. GENERAL SUKVEY OF THE ZOOLOGY OF NORTH AMERICA. AVING thus obtained a bird's-eye view of the physical features of North America, we will take jj a rapid survey of its zoology before we more minutely inspect the individuals of which it consists. In a res^ion of extent so vast as the continent of America, reaching from the Arctic Circle at one end far away towards the Antarctic Ocean at the other — with dense forests, under a tropical sun, in some parts ; open 2:)lains, lofty mountains, or a network of rivers and streams, vast lakes and marshes, in others — we shall find all varieties of form in the animal king- dom. This gives to its study an especial interest. While the larger number of its members are especially local, confined in narrow spaces between two streams, others range beyond 50° and 60° of latitude. The puma wanders across the plains of Patagonia, and ravages the flocks of the settlers on the western prairies of the United States. The reindeer feeds on the moss-covered moors of the Arctic islands, and is chased by the hunters far south among the defiles of the Rocky Mountains. Vast herds of bison darken the plains of New Mexico, and reach the upper waters of the Saskatchewan. SURVEY UF THE ZOOLOGY OF NORTH AMERICA. 77 The same wild fowl wliicli hatch their young among the ice- suiTOunded cliffs of Northern Greenland are found sporting in the lakes of Central America; while some of the smallest of the feathered tribes, the gem-like humming-birds, have been seen Hitting through the damp mists of Tierra del Fuego, sipping the sweets of Alpine flowers high up amid lofty peaks of the Andes, and appearing on the hill-sides in sight of Lake Winnepeg, on the north of Rupert's Land. However, as we proceed in our survey, we shall be able to note such, and many other interesting facts connected with the zoology of the districts we visit. We shall find in the northern portion of the contment, extending nearly as far south as the sixtieth degree of latitude, and even beyond that parallel, several animals wdiich are iden- tical with those inhabiting the same latitudes in Europe and Asia. The Polar or white bear, the sovereim of the Ai'ctic world, ranges entirely round the Circle ; and makes his way across the icy seas over the rugged snow-clothed rocks, so that he belongs as much to Europe and Asia as to America. The cunning wolverene, the ermine, the pine marten, the Arctic fox and common weasel, also inhabit the same latitudes of the three continents. Among the herbivorous quadrupeds, there are several which have made their way across the frozen ocean. The American elk, though called the moose, is identical with the same animal found in Asia and Europe ; so is the reindeer, known here as the cariboo. Both, indeed, are Arctic animals, though they migrate to southern latitudes when the severer cold and depth of snow prevents them from obtaining the moss and lichens on which they feed. The little Polar hare ranges round the Arctic Circle ; but there is one animal, the musk-ox, which, being truly an Arctic quadruped, is unknown either 78 SURVEY OF THE ZOOLOGY OF NORTH AMERICA. in Asia or Europe, and therefore belongs exclusively to America. Of the feathered tribes, the larger number of individuals, as might be supposed, are common to the northern portions of the three continents. Among these are the golden eagle, the white-headed or sea eagle, the osprey, the peregrine falcon, the gyrfalcon, the merlin goshawk, the common buzzard, rough-legged buzzard, hen-harrier, long-eared owl, short-eared owl, gi^eat snowy owl, and Tengmalm's owl. Nearly all the ducks and other swimming families, as might be expected, are also identical, as they can make their way with ease round the Circle, and find the same food and conditions of life. The waders, however, are generally distinct from those of Europe, as are the grouse inhabiting the same parallels of latitude. Only one or two have been found in Europe, as well as in America. We must now take a glance at the animals which are distinctly American. In the first place, there are three bears — the savage gTizzly of the Rocky Mountains ; the cunning black bear ; and the bear of the Barren Grounds. The beaver might take the first rank among American animals, for his sagacity, if not for his size. Then comes the Canada otter ; the vison or minx ; the clever little tree-loving raccoon ; the American badger, differing from his European relative ; and the pekan. There are several varieties of wolves, differing in size and somewhat in habits, but all equally voracious. There are several species of foxes, and no less than thirty of lem- mings, marmots, and squirrels, all of which are to be found within the more northern latitudes of the New World. There are three hares — known as the American, the prame, and the little chief hares — which range over the northern continent. SURVEY OF THE ZOOLOGY OF NORTH AMERICA. 79 Of the large animals we have the wapiti, a species of deer ; two species of the black-tailed deer ; a long-tailed deer ; and the prong-horned antelope; also the wild goat ; the big-horn sheep of the Rocky Mountains ; and last, though not least, the American bison, familiarly known as the buffalo — the inhabi- tant of the wide-spreading plains and prairies extending from the Arctic Circle to Mexico. Among the land birds, especially the birds of prey, there are several which are spread over the greater part of the northern continent, some indeed being found also in great numbers in South America. These are the turkey vulture, the black vulture, the little rusty-crowned falcon, the pigeon hawk, slate-coloured hawk, red-tailed buzzard, American horned owl, little American owl, and five other species of falcons. The perchers are less widely distributed. There are, however, numerous families of insectivorous bii'ds peculiar to America, which either permanently inhabit the more genial portions of the continent, or pay annual visits to those regions where the richest fruits abound and insect life prevails, affording them an abundant banquet. These migrating birds, as the winter draws on, take their departure southward to the warmer climate of Mexico, where they find abundance of food. As the summer returns, and the fruits of the orchard, the corn of the field, and wild berries ripen, and insects increase in numbers, vast flocks of warblers, wood- peckers, maize-birds, fly-catchers, thrushes, hang-nests, pigeons, blue-birds, and others return from their southern pilgTimage, to feed on the minute creatures which now people the plains, the hill-sides and forests, and on the abundant productions of the earth, enlivening the forests with their varied plumage, and delighting man by their melodious notes. 80 SURVF.Y OF THE ZOOLOGY OF NORTH AMERICA. The number of gallinaceous bii'ds is extremely limited. America can, however, boast of its native wild turkey — one of the most magnificent game-birds in existence. There is also the pinnated or Cupid Grouse. The Barren Grounds of Kentucky, and a few other districts, are inhabited by the ruffle grouse, which is also often called the pheasant. It ranges to a considerable distance northward, and Dr. Richard- son found it even on the borders of the Polar regions. There is likewise a small-sized partridge, which is improperly called the quail. With the exception of the golden plover, few of the wading birds resemble those of Europe. The snipe, the woodcock, the curlew, most of the sand-pipers, together with the coot and the water-hen, are distinct from those of Europe, and are not only peculiar to America, but few of them have been found to the south of the Ime. One of the most magnificent birds is the American flamingo, which is of a more beautiful and intense scarlet than that of Europe, and fully as tall ; another bird, the wood-ibis, has the same form as the glossy ibis of southern Europe. In Carolina and Florida is found the magnificent scarlet ibis, but it seldom makes its way to the northern parts of the Union. There are several large and beautiful species of herons. Although most of the duck tribe range throughout the continent, there are some — such as the summer or tree duck of South Carolina — which range from the States to the warmer shores of the southern pro- vinces, while the celebrated canvas-back duck, so highly prized at table, is found chiefiy in the temperate parts of the continent. The rest of the duck tribe inhabit the northern regions, only quitting them for the United States during the severity of winter. CHAPTER V. DESCRIPTION OF VARIOUS ANIMALS RUMINANTS. THE MOOSE, OR ELK. E shall not introduce the animals we are about to inspect according to a systematic classification, but bring them forward as they appear to the eye of the traveller or sportsman, giving the largest and the most important the first place. Our object is rather to view the characteristic animals of each region we visit than to attempt a scientific examination of the whole animated kingdom of the world — a task which must be left to those who have far more time at their disposal than we possess. We will begin, therefore, with the animals Ijelonging to the ruminantia — the eighth in natural order ; taking next the carnivora — the fifth ; and the smaller rodentia — the sixth ; while the birds and reptiles will follow in due course. Among these^ however, we shall select only the most notable and curious ; for although North America does not teem with animal life in the same degree as the southern half of the continent, were we to attempt to introduce all those existing ill it we could ii'ive but a mea2:re account of oacli. 82 THE MOOSE, OR ELK. Without further preface, therefore, we will commence our survey with the elk. The monarch of the American pine forests — the superb moose or elk — ^ranges from the mouth of the Mackenzie River to the shores of the Atlantic, at the eastern extremity of Nova Scotia, and passing the gi^eat lake region, is found even as far as the State of New York. Observe him as he stands with huge palmated horns ready for action, his vast nostrils snuffing up the scent coming from afar ; his eyes dilated, and THE MOOSE, OR ELK. ears moving, watching for a foe ; his bristly mane erect; his large body supported on his somewhat thick but agile limbs, standing fully six feet six inches in height at the shoulder, above which rise the head and antlers. The creature's muzzle is very broad, protruding, and covered with hair, except a small moist, naked spot in front of the nostrils. He has a short, thick neck, the hair thick and brittle. The throat is somewhat maned in both sexes. So large is the cavity of the nose, that a man may thrust his arm right into THE MOOSE, OR ELK. 83 it. The intennaxillaries are very long, and the nasals short. He differs from the European elk only by having much darker hair, — the coat of the male, when in its prime, at the close of the summer, being completely black. Under the throat the males have a fleshy appendage termed the bell, from which oTow lono- black hairs. The bristles on his thick muzzle are of a lighter colour than those of the coat, being somewhat of a reddish hue. The neck and shoulders are covered with very fine soft wool, curiously interwoven with the hair. Out of this the Indians manufacture soft, warm gloves. The moose hair is very brittle and inelastic. It is dyed by the Indians, and employed for ornamenting nume- rous articles of birch bark. The moose is of cautious and retiring habits, generally taking up his abode amid the mossy swamps found round the margins of the lakes, and which occupy the low ground in every direction. Here the cin- namon fern gi'ows luxuriantly, while a few swamp maple saplings and mountain ash trees occur at intervals, and afford sufficient food to the moose. It is to these regions the bull retires with his consort, and remains for weeks together, claiming to be the monarch of the swamp ; and should he hear the approach of a distant rival, he will crash with his antlers against the tree stems, making- sudden mad rushes through the bushes, the sound of his blows reverberating to a distance. He has also a curious custom of tearing up the moss over a, considerable area, exposing the black mud by pawing with the fore-feet. He continually visits these hills, and in consequence a strong musky effluvia arises from them. The Indian hunter, by examining them, can ascertain without fail when they were last visited by tlie animal. He utters loud sounds both bv day and night, 84 THE MOOSE, OR ELK. described by the Indians in their guttural voices as "' quoth, quoth," but occasionally becoming sharper and more like a bellow when he hears a distant cow. The cow utters a prolonged and strangely wild call. This is imitated by the Indian hunter through a trumpet composed of i(^lled - up birch bark, when his dogs are in chase of the animal ; ;ind the bull being by this means attracted towards him, becomes more easily his victim. During the early part of the year, and the summer, the antlers are growing ; but this pro- cess ceases early in Sep- tondjer, when the moose lias got rid of the last ragged strip of the deci- duous skin ao-ainst the young larch - trees and alder -bushes. He now stands ready to assert his claims aoainst all A WOVSDED ELK. rivals. At this season the bulls light desperately ; often the collision of the antlers of huge rivals, driven with mighty force THE MOOSE, OR ELK. 85 by their immense and compact necks, is heard to a great dis- tance, like the report of a gun on a still autumnal evening. They probably approach from different directions, regardless of the rugged ground, the rocks, and fallen trees in their course, bellowing loudly, and tearing up the ground with their horns. Now they catch sight of each other, and rush together like two cjladiators. Now butting for some time till their ant- es o lers become interlocked, perhaps both fall struggling to the ground. Frequently portions of skeletons, the skulls united by firmly-locked antlers, have been found in some wilderness arena, where a deadly light has occurred. A magnificent pair of horns thus interlocked is to be seen in the Museum of* the Royal College of Surgeons. Terrible must have been the fate of the combatants, illustrating Byron's lines : — " Friends meet to part ; Love laughs at faitli : True foes once met, Are joined till death. " Captain Hardy says he has twice heai'd the strange sound emitted by the moose, which, till he became acquainted with its origin, was almost appalling. It is a deep, hoai-se, and prolonged bellow, more resembling a feline than a bovine roar. Sometimes the ear of the hunter is assailed by a tremendous clatter from some distant swamp or burned wood. It is the moose, defiantly sweeping the forest of pines right and left among the brittle Ijranches of the ram pikes, as the scaled pines hardened by fire are locally tenned. When, however, the moose wishes to beat a retreat in silence, his suspicions being aroused, he effects the process with marvellous stealth. Not a branch is heard to snap, and the horns are so carefully carried through the densest thickets, that a rabbit would 86 THE MOOSE, OR ELK. make as much noise when alarmed. He will also, when hard pressed, take the most desperate leaps to avoid his foes. A DESPKRATE LEAP. Thousjh he seldom or never attacks human heinous when unassailed, he will do so occasionally when badly wounded, THE MOOSE, OR ELK. 87 if nearly approached. An old Indian hunter had one day followed up a moose, and wounded the animal, when it turned on him. There being no tree near, he jammed himself for safety between two large granite boulders which were at hand. The aperture, however, did not extend far enough back to enable him to get altogether out of the reach of the infuriated bull, which set on him with its fore-feet, and pounded him so severely that several of his ribs were broken ; indeed, for several years afterwards he was nearly bent double by the severe beating he had received. In the summer, when the plague of flies commences, the moose takes to the water to avoid their bites. There are several species — one termed the moose-fly — which are equally annoying to the hunter. The animal strives to free himself from their irritation by running among bushes and brambles ; and should he reach a lake, he will plunge into the water, allowing only his nostrils and mouth to remain above the surface. Sometimes, indeed, he will dive altogether, and is frequently known to hide himself from his pursuers by remaining for a long time below the water. He also feeds upon the tendrils and shoots of the yellow pond-lily, by reaching for them under water. An Indian, on one occasion, was following the track of a moose, when it led him to the edge of a little round pond in the woods, whence he could find no exit of the trail. After waiting for some time, he beheld the head of the animal rising above the surface in the very middle of the pond. While hastening for his gun, which he had left at a little distance, the moose made for the opposite shore, and emerging from the water, regained the shelter of the forest ere he could get round for a shot. The animals have been known also to visit the sea-shore, and 88 THE MOOSE, OR ELK. one was seen swimming off to an island over a mile distant, which he reached in safety. The moose feeds chiefl}^ on the leaves of young shoots and bushes, or the smaller trees — the red and other maples, the white birch, the balsam, fur, poplar, and mountain ash ; and occasionally, as has been said, on the roots of the yellow pond- lily, with a bite now and then at a tussack of broad-leaved gi^ass growing in the di^ed bogs. To get at the foliage beyond the reach of his muzzle, he frequently charges a young tree and rides it down, till he has brought the tempting leaves within his reach. The horns of the animal begin to sprout in A])ril, the old pair having fallen some time before. In the middle of this month the coat is shed, when the animal for some time after- wards presents a very rugged appearance. The cow towards the end of May produces one or two calves, generally neai- the margin of a lake, or in one of the densely- wooded islands, where they are secure from the attacks of the bull moose, who, cruel tyrant that he is, often destroys them. Rarely more than two are born at a time. Besides its human foes, the moose is attacked occasionally by the bear. Captain Hardy describes coming upon the traces of a recent struggle between a young moose and one of these animals. " The bear had evidently stolen through the long grass upon the moose, and had taken him at a dis- advantage in the treacherous bog. The grass was very much beaten down, and deep furrows in the soil below showed how energetically the unfortunate moose had striven to escape from his powerful assailant. There was a broad track plenti- fully strewed with moose hair, showing how the moose had struggled with the bear, to the wood, where, no doubt, the affair ended, and the bear dined." THE MOOSE, OR ELK. 89 As the winter approaches, the cows, witli the young bulls and calves, congregate in small parties on the open "barrens" and hill-sides. When the snow comes thickly down, they form what is called a yard ; and in Canada, where its depth is very great, they have to remain in it during the whole winter, feeding round the area on the young wood of deciduous trees. In Nova Scotia, however, they migrate to other localities, when they have consumed the more tempting portions of food in the yard. In the morning and afternoon they are found feeding, or chewing the cud ; but at noon, when they lie down, they are difficult to approach, as they are then on the alert, employing their wonderful faculties of scent and hearing to detect the faintest taint or sound in the air, which might indicate the approach of danger. The snapping of a little twig, the least collision of a ritle with a branch, or crunching of the snow under the mocassins, will suffice to arouse them. Curiously enough, however, they are not alarmed by any sound, even the loudest, to which they have been accustomed. The hunter has, therefore, to approach the yard with the greatest possible caution, in order tu get a shot. We will, however, start off on a moose hunt, in autunm, with a practical Indian hunter. The air of the autumnal night is frosty and bracing. The moose are moving rapidly from place to place. Night is drawing on. The last flutter- ing of the aspens dying away, leaves that j^erfect repose in the air which is so necessaiy to the sport. The moon rises, shed- ding a broad and silvery light through the forest. Mysterious sounds greet our ears. The Indian hunter is provided with his trumpet of birch bai'k, in the form of a cone, about two feet in lenoth. He shelters himself behind the ed^-e of the 90 THE MOOSE, OR ELK. banks, a clump of bushes, or rocks ; and now he emits the cry of the cow moose, so exactly, that the male animal is easily deceived by it. He waits : there is no response. An interval of fifteen minutes elapses ; still no reply is heard. Again the Indian sends his wild cry pealing through the wood. Presently a low grunt, quickly repeated, comes from some distant hill ; and the snapping of branches and falling trees attests the approach of the bull. The hunter is now doubly careful ; kneeling down, and thrusting the mouth of his call into some bushes close by, he utters a lower and more plaintive sound. At length an answer reaches his ears. The snapping of the branches is resumed ; and pre- sently the moose is seen stalking into the middle of the moonlit " barren." Our weapons are ready ; and as the magnificent animal stands looking eagerly around in the woodland amphitheatre, a rifle ball, laden with death, brings him to the ground. In some districts the Indians employ another method of calling. They conceal themselves in a swamp, in the midst of some damp mossy valley, during a dark night. One holds a torch of birch bark with a match ready for lighting. The hunter calls, and the moose approaches more readily than towards the open '' barren." When the creature is within distance of the deadly rifle, the match is applied to the torch, which, flaring up, illuminates the swamp, and discovers the startled moose standing amidst the trees, and incapable ap- parently of flight. The Indians declare that he is fascinated by the light ; and though he may walk round and round it, he will not leave the spot, and thus presents an easy mark to the hunter's rifle. Let us set forth on an expedition to " creep " moose, which THE MOOSE, OR ELK. ' 91 may be described as a similar mode of hunting to stalking. The ground we select is among the " barrens " before described. It is strewed with dead trees in all directions, amid which briars and bushes have grown up, and conceal their sharp, broken limbs, and the rough gi^anite rocks scattered in all dii'ections. Here, collecting wood for burning, we form our camp, and sit round the blazing fire, on which a well-filled frying-pan is hissing, while we are covered by our blankets to protect ourselves from the pattering rain-drops. Our suppers over, we stretch ourselves for repose, and gradually fall asleep, as the snapping of the logs on the fire, the pattering of the rain, and the hootings of the owls in the distant forest become less and less distinct. Our Indian brings us notice in the morning that two moose have passed close to the camp dur- ing the night. However, in spite of the plaintive call from the treacherous bark trumpet, they will not approach, having been forewarned of danger by the smell of our camp-fire. We make our way amid the bushes, already leafless, except that here and there are seen bunches of dwarf maples with a few scarlet leaves of autumn still clinging to them. Presently our companion whispers, '' Down — sink down ! slow — like me ! " A magnificent bull appears about five hundred yards off! The wind is blowing from him to us. The Indian utters the usual call ; but the moose does not answer, having already a companion close at hand. Presently he lies down in the bushes, and we worm ourselves slowly and laboriously towards the edge of the alder swamp. Gently lowering ourselves into the swamp, we creep noiselessly through the dense bushes, their thick foliacre closinor over our heads. It is an anxious moment! — the slightest snapping of a bough, the knocking of a gun-barrel against a stem, and the game is off! '' We must 92 THE CARIBOO, OR REINDEER. go back/' whispers the Indian. '' Cannot get near enough oil this side. Too open !" The difficult task of retreating is performed without disturbing the moose. Another half-hour is then employed in creeping like snakes through the wet bushes. At length, as we reach the edge of the swamp, the =i*6^^ CHEEPING THE 3IOOSE. gi'eat animal rises directly facing us, gazing steadily towards us. We fire. A headlong stagger follows the report ; and the creature, turning round, is hidden from sight behind a clump of bushes. The Indian at the same time fires at a large cow moose who has, unknown to us, been lying close to the bull. We dash forward a few paces. On the other side the gTcat bull suddenly rises in front of us and strides on into thicker covert. Another shot, and he sinks lifeless at our feet. THE CARIBOO, OR REINDEER. We have before mentioned the extensive tracts existing in North America, which, from their desolate appearance, are appropriately called ''Barrens." Far as the eye can reach the whole oTound is seen strewn with boulders of rock and fallen trees, scattered round in the wildest confusion. Here and THE CARIBOO, OR REINDEER. 98 tlicre cliarred 8tuin|)s lise from tlie grecn-sward ; in some spots clumps of S])i'uce are seen, against Avhich the white stems of the graceful birch stand out in bold relief ; while the bank of some stream, or the margin of a lake, is marked by fringing thickets of alder. In many parts are moist, swamp}^ bogs, into -which the sportsman sinks ankle-deep at every step. The ground, however, is everywhere thickly carpeted by a luxuriant growth of a species of lichen. It possesses wonderfully nutritive qualities ; so much so, that large quan- tities of alcohol have lately been extracted from it, as well as from other lichens growing in sub-arctic regions. It is the chief food of the cariboo, which animal frequents these deso- late-looking "barrens." Visiting one of these " barrens," we may perchance fall in with several of the noble-looking animals known in Europe and Asia as the reindeer, though we must look sharp to recognize them ; for so similar are they in colour to the rocks and general features of the ground, that only the keen eye of the Indian can easily detect them, especially when they are lying down. Should we approach them on the weather-side, or should the slightest noise be made, they will quickly detect us. Up they spring, and after a brief stare, make off in graceful bounds at a rapid rate. Now, having got beyond danger, they drop into a long swinging trot, and proceed in single file across the " barren," till they enter the line of forest in the far distance. The cariboo of North America is a strongly-built, thick- set animal, compared to the more graceful of his relatives. He carries on his head a pair of magnificent antlers, varying greatly in different specimens — some pal mating towards the upper ends, others with })ranches springing from tlu^ pal mated 94 THE CARIBOO, OR REINDEER. portions. In most instances there is but one developed brow antler, the other being a solitary curved prong. The back of the cariboo is covered with brownish hair, the tips of which are of a rich dun gray, whiter on the neck than elsewhere. The nose, ears, and outer surface of the legs and shoulders are of a brown hue. The neck and throat are covered with long, dullish white hair, and there is a faint whitish patch on the side of the shoulders. The rump and tail are snowy white, while a band of white runs round all the legs, joining the hoofs. As winter approaches, the haii' gi'ows long, and lightens considerably in hue. Frequently, indeed, individuals may be seen in a herd with coats of the palest fawn colour — almost white. The muzzle is entirely covered with hair. The fur is brittle, and though in summer it is short, in winter it is longer and whiter, especially about the throat. The hoofs are broad, depressed, and bent in at the tip. The full-grown bucks shed their horns, and it is seldom that they are seen in a herd after Christmas. The female reindeer, however, retains hers during winter. Several theories have been ad- vanced to account for this. There seems no doubt, however, that the object is to enable the female to protect her faw^ns from the males, who are apt to attack the young and destroy them. The cariboo is gregarious, and males, females, and young herd together at all seasons ; and by this provision of Nature the females are able to defend the young, who would other- wise be subjected to injury. In another respect these animals are w^onderfully provided for the mode of existence they are compelled to pursue. Not only have they to cross wide snow-covered districts, but frequently to pass across frozen THE CARIBOO, OR REINDEER. 97 expanses of water. To enable them to do this in tlie winter, the frog of the foot is ahnost entirely absorbed, and the edges of the hoof, now quite concave, grow out in sharp ridges, each division on the under surface presenting the appearance of a huge mussel-shell, and serving the office of natural skates. So rapidly does the shell increase, that the frog does not fill up again till spring, when the antlers bud out. With this singular conformation of the foot, it has a lateral spread ; and an additi(jnal assistance for maintaining a foothold on slippery surfaces is given by numerous long, stiff bristles which grow downward at the fetlock, curving over entirely between the divisions. The cariboo is thus enabled to proceed over the snow, to cross frozen lakes, or ascend icy precipices, with an ease which places him, when in flight, beyond the reach of all enemies, except perhaps the nimble and untiring- wolf The cariboo is essentially a migratory animal. Tlicrc are two well-defined periods of migration, in the spring and autumn. Throughout the winter it appears also seized with an unconquerable desire to change its residence. One day it may be found feeding quietly through the forests in litth^ bands, and the next, perhaps, all tracks show a general move in a certain direction. The animals join the main herd after a while, and entirely leaving the district, travel toward new feeding-grounds. Though often found in the same woodlands as the moose, they do not enjoy each other's company. In severe winters the cariboos travel to the southernmost limits of their haunts, and even sometimes enter the settlements. Not being aquatic, like the moose, to avoid the flies in summer^ they ascend the mountain ranges, where they can be free from tlicir attacks. The hunter, however, follows (379) 7 98 THE WAPITI, OR CANADIAN STAG. them, and their speed SHOOTING THE CAUIBOO. being of no avail among the precipices, many are shot. During most of the year the flesh of the animal is dry and tasteless ; but it possesses a layer of fat, two or more inches thick, which is greatly esteemed. This, with the marrow, is pounded together with the dried flesh, and makes the best kind of pemmican — a food of the greatest value to the hunter. The cariboo lives in herds, sometimes only of ten or twenty, but at othei's consisting of thirty or more indi- \dduals. They range across the whole width of the continent, being found in gTcat numbers to the west of the Rocky Mountains, especially at the northern end of British Columbia. Although specifically identical with the reindeer of Eurojie, it has never yet been trained by Indians or Esquimaux to carry their goods or draw their sleighs, as in Lapland and along the Arctic shores of Asia. THE WAPITI, OR CANADIAN STAG. In the wilder parts of the Southern States of the Union, herds of the magnificent Canadian stag or wapiti — popularly called the elk — range amid the woods and over the prairies. Sometimes three or four hundred ai'e found in one herd, always THE WAPITI, OR CANADIAN STAG. 99 led by an old buck, who exacts from them the strictest obedi- ence — compelling them to halt or move onward as he judges necessary. Now the superb herd of long-horned creatures are seen to wheel to the right or lel't, now to advance or retreat at the signal he issues. The wapiti is indeed a grand animal, growing to the height of the tallest ox, and endowed with wonderful activity, as well as power. ^~ See him as he dashes throuo'h the forest, his branched horns separating in ser- pentine curves, six feet from tip to tip, laid close over his back as he makes his way amid the trees. His head is of a lively, yellowish- brown hue, the neck covered with THE WAPITI. reddish and black hairs, the latter of consideral )le length, descending in a thick bunch below it. They are among the fiercest of the deer tribe. The bucks often enter into des- ])erate contests with each other, battling with their huge ' horns — the fight frequently ending only with the death of the weaker rival. Sometimes their lionis have become so inex- tricably interlocked, that Ijoth have fallen to the ground, and, unable to rise,-have perished miserably. They will frequently. 100 THE WAPITI, OR CANADIAN STAG. when wounded, attack their human assailants ; and the bold hunter, if thus exposed with riHe unloaded to their fierce assaults, will rue the day his weapon failed to kill the em-aged (juarry at the first shot. The wapiti, when pursued, will boldly plunge into the LAKE-HUNTING. lake or broad river, and breast the rapid current to avoid Kxh foes ; or will occasionally, if hard pressed, attack the bold hunter who ventures to follow in his lifdit canoe. THE KARJACOU, OR VIRGINIAN DEER. 101 His cry i.s a sharp ^^ liistling sound, wliicli rings through the air far and wide on a calm day. He feeds on the branches of the trees and gi'ass, and in winter scrapes, with liis powerful fore-feet, deep into the snow, to obtain the lichens and dry herbao-e which m-ow beneath. His flesh for several months in the year is dry and coarse, but his hide is much prized by the Indians, who manufacture from it a leather r>f a peculiarly soft character, which retains that quality after being wet, — instead of turning hard, as is the case with that manu- factured from other deerskins. A remarkable feature of the wapiti is that the horns differ in form almost as greatly as do those of the branches of trees, no two specimens being found with them exactly alike.. THE KARJACOU, OR VIRGINIAN DEER. The most graceful of the deer tribe, the karjacou, scours in large herds across the prairies, frequently entering the haunts of man. Yet so easily is it scared that it takes to flight at the very appearance of a human being. Curiously enough, however, it will again return to its favourite feeding-grounds, even though the hunter's rifle may lay low many of the herd. It is about the size of the fallow-deer, and of a lio-ht ])r()\vn hue. Its horns are slender, and have numerous blanches on the interior sides, 1 )ut are destitute of brow antlers. Let us watch a herd startled by our approach. Away they spring, leaping into the aii', turning their heads in every direction to ascertain the cause of their alarm, and then rush off" at full speed ; but in a short time, if they are not followed, we may see them return, especially as night draws on, and crouch dow n in their accustomed sleeping-places. Should a salt lake be near, they will come in vast nund^ers to lick \\\\ 102 THE KARJACOU, OR VIRGINIAN DEER. with their tongues the saline particles adhering to the sur- rounding stones, where the salt has crystallized from the eva- poration of the water. They are at all times thirsty, and they require constant draughts of pure water, to obtain which they are sure to visit the nearest stream or spring as night is about to close over the scene. Wherever the tenderest herbage grows upon the plain, there the karjacou comes to crop it during summer. In winter he finds an abundant supply of food from the buds and berries, or fallen fruits ; or, when snow is on the gi'omid, he eats the stiing moss hanging in masses from the trees. He willingly takes to the water, and will cross a lake or broad river, swimming at a rapid rate with his whole body submerged, his head alone appearing above the surface ; thus he will often baffle his pursuers, even though they may follow him with a boat. He has been knovai, indeed, when hard pressed near the sea-coast, to plunge into the- ocean, and buffeting the waves, to make his way far from the land, rather than be captured. His flesh affords the Indian a large portion of his winter supply of food, while his skin is manufactured into clothing, the leather from it being especially soft and pliable. From the settlers in the western provinces he receives little mercy, as, without hesitation, he leaps their fences, banqueting on their growing corn or vegetables; and, after doing all the mis- chief in his power, by his activity generally again makes his escape. No animal surpasses in beauty the young fawn, the fur of which is of a ruddy brown tint, ornamented with white spots arranged in irregular lines, merging occasionally into wide stripes. Like others of his tribe, the male is excessively combative when meeting others of his own species; and a story is told of TJIE ANTELOPE. 103 three animals tlms encountering each other in a desert, when all their horns becoming entangled, they remained fixed, unable to separate, till they sank together on the ground, their skulls and skeletons afterwards being discovered, thus giving evidence of the combat and its fatal result. THE ANTELOPE. No animal of the American wilds surpasses the antelope in beauty. The little creatures congregate in herds of many THE ANTELOPK. - thousands, thouoh, from the exterminatinof war wao-ed ao'ainst them by the Indians, they have greatly decreased in numbers. The size of the antelope is about that of tlie common red- deer doe ; the colour somewhat between buff and fawn, shaded here and there into reddish-brown, and a patch of pure white on the hind-quarters. This gives rise to the expression of the hunter, when he sees it flying before him, that the creature is "showing its clean linen." The ears are placed fiir back on the head, are very long, and curved so much that at a distance 104 THE ANTELOPE. they appear like horns, while the horns themselves appear as if coming out of the animal's eyes ; they are long and slender, curving slightly backwards, and have no branches, except a little bud, which is developed when the creature is about two years old. The chief peculiarity of the animal is its lack of a dewlap. The feet have no rudimentary hoofs like the deer, yet thio want in no way interferes with its speed. Often the creature may be seen for a moment browsing not fifty yards off, the next it has dwindled to a mere speck, and is in another lost to sight. They do not leap like deer, but run with level backs, as sheep do, their legs glancing faster than sight can follow. In vain the hunter attempts to follow the rapid movements of the creatures on horseback. Perhaps they will let him apjn-oach to within a short distance, and then away they float on a line at right-angles to their former retreat. To come up with them, indeed, as an American writer observes, is as hopeful an undertaking as trying to run down a tele- graphic message. The only way to get near them is l)y a stratagem. They are not afi-aid of horses, and the hunter, by walking behind his horse, may often approach a herd without being discovered, provided the wind blows from them. He then pickets his horse with a sharp stake, and sinking down in the gi^ass he ties a bright-coloured handkerchief to the end of his ramrod ; he then crawls forward on hands and knees, dragging his rifle, till he approaches still neai-er, when he remains concealed, and lifts his flag in the air. The antelopes, on catching sight of it, stop browsing, and raising their heads, peer towards it, exhibiting no signs of fear. For a moment he drops his flag ; the beautiful creatures then resume their repast, but their curiosity gets the better of their prudence. THE BKillORN, OR MOUNTAIN SHEEP. 105 Again they look forward, wlicn the flag is once more raised and waved slowly backward and forward. The antelopes have now their curiosity excited to the utmost ; for a moment they stop irresolute, then advance a few steps snuffing the air. Once more the flag sinks out of sight ; they seem to be asking each other what is the cause of the strange sight they have seen. Again it is raised ; they draw nearer and nearer, till they are within range of the hunter's deadly rifle ; he fires, and almost to a certainty one of the beautiful animals springs into the air and tumbles head-foremost on the ground. For a moment the survivors run off from their fallen friend, but seldom go far. Once more they return within easy rifle-shot of the hunter. Unless, however, he re(][uires the meat, he must be greatly lacking in right feeling if he slaughters use- lessly so beautiful an animal. The antelo})e becomes so easily confused, that when met on the prairies it frequently runs headlono- into the midst of the travellers. The creatures are often killed by being surrounded, when the whole herd are driven into an enclosed spot and become the easy prey of the hungry hunters. THE BIGHORN, OR MOUNTAIN SHEEP. Amid the almost inaccessible peaks of the Rocky Mountains, herds of animals with enormous horns may be seen leaping from rock to I'ock, sometimes descending at one spring fi-om a height of twenty oi' thirty feet — when, the Indians assert, they invariably alight on their horns, and by this means save their bones from certain dislocation. They are bighorns, or moun- tain sheep, and are considered the chief game of these regions. The animals appear to partake both of the nature of the deer and of the goat. They resemble the latter more especially in 106 THE BIGHORN, OR MOUNTAIN SHEEP. their habits, and in frequenting the most lofty and inaccessible regions, whence, except in the severest weather, they seldom descend to the upland valleys. In size the bighorn is between the domestic sheep and the common red-deer of America, but is more strongly built than the latter. It is of a brownish- dun colour, with a somewhat white streak on the hind-quarters. The tail is shorter than that of the deer, and tipped with black. As the age of the animal increases, the coat becomes of a darker tinge. The horns, of the male especially, are of great size, curving backwards about three feet in length, and twenty inches in circumference at the roots. Frequently on the highest spot one of the band is stationed as a sentinel, and whilst the others are feeding he looks out for the approach of danger. They have even more acute sight and smell than the deer. On an alarm being given the whole herd scampers up the mountain, higher and higher, every now and then haltino; on some overhanmno- crao- and lookino- down on the object which may have caused them alarm ; then once more they pursue their ascent, and as they bound up the steep sides of the mountains throw down an avalanche of rocks and stones. Occasionally the young lambs are caught and domesticated by the hunters in their mountain homes, when they become greatly attached to theii^ masters, amusing them by their merry gambols and playful tricks. Attempts have been made to transport them to the States ; but although milch-goats have been brought to feed the lambs, they have suffered by the change from the pure air of the mountains to the plains, or they have not taken kindly to their foster-mothers, and have invariably perished on the journey. The creatures reach a height of three feet six inches at the TIIK BUFFALO. 107 shoulders, while the horns are of about the same length. In colour they vary greatly, changing according to the season of ihe year. THE BISON, COMMONLY CALLED THE BUFFALO IN AMERICA. Throughout the wide-extending prairies of North America, from north to south to the east of the Rocky Mountains, vast herds of huge animals — w^ith shaggy coats and manes which hano" down over the head and shoulders reachino- to the oround, and short curling horns, giving their countenances a fei'ocious aspect — range up and down, sometimes amounting to ten thousand head in one herd. They commonly go by- the name THE BISON. of buffaloes, l»ut are properly called bisons. Clothed in a dense coat of long woolly hair, the bufialo is w^ell constituted to stand the heats of summer as well as the cold of the snowy l>lains in the northern regions to wdiich he extends his wanderino's. Let us look at him as he stands facinu" us on his native 108 THE BUFFALO. plains, his red eyes glowing like coals of fire from amid the mass of dark brown or black hair which hangs over his head and neck and the whole fore part of his body. A beard descends from the lower jaw to the knee ; another huge bunch of matted hair rises from the top of his head, almost concealing his thick, short, pointed horns standing wide apart from each other. As he turns round we shall see that a large oblong hump rises on his back, diminishing in height towards the tail : that member is short, with a tuft of hair at the tip. The hinder part of the body is clothed with hair of more moderate length, especially in summer, when it Ijecomes fine and smooth, and soft as velvet. From his awkward, heavy appearance, when seen at a distance, it would not be supposed that he is extremely active, capable of moving at a rapid rate, and of continuino- his headlono- career for an immense distance. So sure of foot is he, also, that he Avill pass over ground where no horse could follow, his limbs being in reality slender, and his body far more finely proportioned than would be supposed till it is seen stripped of its thick coating of hair. While his thick coat protects him from the cold, he is also provided with a broad, strong, and tough nose, with which he can shovel away the snow and lay Vjare the grass on which he feeds. Sometimes, however, when a slight thaw has occurred, and a thin cake of ice has been formed over the snow, his nose gets sadly cut, and is often seen bleeding from the effects of his labours. It is said that when a herd comes near the settle- ments, the domesticated calves, and even the horses, will follow the buffalo tracks, and gi^aze on the herbage which they have disclosed and left unconsumed. The flesh of the buffalo, especially that of the cow, is juicy, and tender in the extreme. The most esteemed portion is i.iiiliiil:liiH iii'!iiKiM : i''i;;;!;iiriiiJiii'i3r.:tiiijiii THE BUFFALO. HI that composing the hump on its back, which gives it so strange an aspect. It is indeed frequently killed merely for the sake of this hump, and the tongue and marroAv-bones. Sometimes, also, when parched with thirst, the hunter kills a l)uffalo to obtain the water contained within certain honey- combed cells in its stomach. The buffalo is provided with this reservoir, in which a large quantity of pure water can be stored, that it may traverse, without the necessity of drinking, the wide barren plains where none can be obtained. Vast numbei*s, without even these objects in view, are wantonly slaughtered, and the chief part of the flesh utterly wasted, by the thoughtless Indians of the plain, who have thereby de- prived themselves of their future support. Many tribes depend almost entirely for their subsistence on the buffalo, of which the flesh is prepared in several ways. When cut up into long strips, and dried in the sun till it becomes black and hard, it will keep for a long time. It is also pounded with the fat of the animal, and converted into pevimican — an especially nutritious food, which, if kept dry, will continue in good order for several years. The prairie Indians make use of the hide for many pur- poses. They scrape oft* the hair and tan it, when it serves them for coverings for their tents. It is also carefully dressed, when it becomes soft and impervious to water. It is then used for clothing. Some of the tribes also form their shields from it. The hide is pegged down on the ground, when it is covered with a kind of glue. In this state it greatly shrinks and thickens, and becomes sufficiently hard to resist an arrow, and even to turn aside an ordinary bullet ^^•hich does not strike directly. The buffalo is especially a gregarious animal, and is found 112 THE BUFFALO. in herds of immense size, many thousands in number. Their dark forms may often be seen extending over the prairie as far as the eye can reach, a mighty moving mass of life. Onward they rush, moved by some sudden impulse, making the ground tremble under their feet, while their course may be traced by the vast cloud of dust which floats over them as they sweep across the plain. They are invariably followed by flocks of wolves, who pounce on any young or sick mem- bers of the herd which may be left behind. They range throughout the whole prairie country, from the '' Fertile Belt," which extends from the Red River settlement to the Rocky Mountains in British Central America, to Mexico in the south. The bulls ai'e at times excessively savage. They often quar- rel among themselves, and then, falling out of the herd, they engage in furious cr»mbats, gTcatly to the advantage of the pursuing wolves. In the summer, the buftalo delights in wallowing in mud. Reaching some marshy spot, he throws himself down, and works away till he excavates a mud-hole in the soil. The water from the surrounding ground rapidly drains into this, and covers him up, thus freeing him from the stings of the gnats and flies which swarm in that season. The buftalo is hunted on horseback both by whites and by Indians, though the sport is one in which a considerable amount of danger must be braved. Let us set off' from a farm in the Western States, on the border of the prairie. We have one or two nights to camp out before we reach the buffalo grounds. Mounting our horses by l)reak of day, after n.n early breakfast, we ride on with the wind in our faces, and at length discover across the plain a numl)er of dark objects moving slowly. They are buffaloes, feeding as they go. We see throiiijfh our field-Qflasses that there are calves amonof them. z g > z m I c z H Z o CD c ■n ■ij > r o THE BUFFALO. 115 It is proposed that some of our party sliould ride round, so as to stampede the herd Lack towards us, ami thus, by dividing them, enable us to get in the centre. We wait for some time, when we see a vast mass of hairy monsters come tearing over a hill towards us. We have shot several of the bulls, but our object is to secure their calves and cows. As the herd a[)})roaches lis, it swings round its front at right-angles, and makes off M'estward. We dash forward, and divide it into two parties. We also separate, some of our hunters following one part of the herd, the others the remainder. The en- thusiasm of our horses equals our own. Away we go ; nothing stops us. Now we plunge with headlong bounds down bluffs of caving sands fifty feet high, — while the buffaloes, crazy with terror, arc scrambling half-way up the opposite side. Now we are on the very haunches of our game ; now before us appears a slippery buffalo wallow. We see it just in time to leap clear, but the next instant we are in the middle of one. Our horses, with frantic plunges, scramble out ; and on we go. We get closer and closer to the buffaloes, when a loud thundering of trampling hoofs sounds behind us. Looking over our shoulders, there, in plain sight, appears another herd, tearing down on our rear. For nearly a mile in width stretches a line of angry faces, a rolling surf of wind-blown hair, a row of quivering lights burning with a reddish-brown hue — the eyes of the infuriated animals. Should our horses stumble, our fate will be sealed. It is certain death to be involved in the herd. So is it to turn back. In an instant we should be trampled and gored to death. Our only hope is to ride steadily in the line of the stampede, till we can in- sinuate ourselves laterally, and break out through the side of the herd. Yet the hope of doing so is but small. 116 THE BUFFALO. On we rush rapidly as before, when suddenly, to our gTeat satisfaction, the herd before us divides into two columns, to pass round a low hill in front. Still on we go, pushing our horses up the height. We reach the summit, the horses pant- ing fearfully, and the moisture trickling in streams from their sides. But now the rear column comes on. They see us, not fifty rods off, but happily pay no attention to us. We dis- mount, facing the furious creatures. Should they not divide, but come over the hill, in a few moments we must be trampled to death. The herd approaches to within a hundred yards of the hill. We lift our rifles and deliver a couple of steadily aimed bullets at the fore-shoulders of the nearest bulls. One gives a wild jump, and limps on with three legs ; the other seems at first unhurt ; but just as they reach the foot of the mound, they both fall down. The whole host are rushing over them. We rapidly reload. The fate of their comrades, however, sends a panic into the heaits of the herd. Another falls just when they are so close that we could have sprung on their backs. At that moment they divide, and the next we are standing on a desert island, a sea of billowing backs flowing round on either side in a half-mile current of crazy buffa- loes. The herd is fully five minutes in passing us. We watch them as they come, and as the last laggers pant by the mound we look westward and see the stampeders halt- ing. We soon understand the cause. They have come up with the main herd. Yes, there, in full sight of us, is the buffalo army, extending its deep line as far as the western horizon. The whole earth is black with them. From a point a mile in front of us, their rear line extends on the north to the bluffs bounding the banks of the river on which we had camped. On the south it reaches the summits of some THE BUFFALO. 117 distant heights fully six miles away. When it is known that with our field-glasses we can recognize an object the size of a buffalo ten miles distant^ and that the mass extends even beyond the horizon, some idea may be formed of the immense number of animals congi-egated in the herd. To say that there are ten thousand, would be to give a very low estimate of their numbers. The same writer from whose work the above is taken, describes an extraordinary instance of friendship exhibited by a buffalo bull for one of his comrades. (Generally speak- ing, the buffalo, even in the pairing season, will forsake the wounded cow, and the cow will not stay one moment to protect her hurt calf) He was out hunting on one occa- sion, when, having been for some time unsuccessful, and being anxious to retrieve his character by bringing home some meat to camp, he caught sight of two fine buffalo bulls on a broad meadow on the opposite side of a stream. Dismounting from his horse, he took steady aim at the nearest buffalo, which was grazing with its haunches towards him. The ball broke the animal's right hip, and he plunged away on three legs, the other hanging useless. He leaped on his horse, put spurs to its flanks, and in three minutes was close on the bull's rear. To his astonishment, and the still greater surprise of the two old hunters who came after him, the unhurt bull stuck to his comrade's side without flinching. He fired an- other shot, which took effect in the lungs of the first buffalo. The second moved off for a moment, but instantly returned to his friend. The wounded buffalo became distressed, and slackened his pace. The unwounded one not onl}^ retarded his, but coming to the rear of his friend, stood, with his head down, offering battle. '' Here indeed was devotion which had 8 B 118 THE BUFFALO. no instinct to inspire it. The sight was subhme ! The hunters could no more have accepted the challenge of the brave* crea- ture, than they could have smitten Damon at the side of Pythias. The wounded buffalo ran on to the border of the next marsh, and, in attempting to cross, fell headlong down the steep bank, and never rose again. Not till that moment, when courage was useless, did the faithful creature consider his own safety in flight. The hunters took off* their hats as he walked away, and gave three parting cheers as the gallant buffalo vanished beyond the fringing timber." The half-breed hunters of Rupeit's Land make two expe- ditions in the year in search of buffaloes — one in the middle of June, and the other in Octobei". They divide into three bands, each taking a separate route, for the purpose of falling in with the herds of buffaloes. These bands are each accom- panied by about five hundred carts, drawn by either an ox or a horse. They are curious vehicles, roughly formed with their own axes, and fastened together with wooden pins and leather thongs, not a nail being used. The tires of the wheels are made of buflfalo hide, and put on wet. When they be- come dry, they shrink, and are sq tight that they never fall off*, and last as long as the cart holds together. The carts contain the women and children, and provisions, and are in- tended to bring back the spoils of the chase. Each is deco- rated with some flag, so that the hunters may recognize their own from a distance. They may be seen winding oflf in one wide line extending for miles, and accompanied by the hunters on horseback. These expeditions run the danger of being attacked by the Sioux Indians, who inhabit the prairies to the south. The camps are therefore well surrounded by scouts, for the purpose of reconnoitring either for enemies or THE BUFFALO. 119 buffaloes. If they see the latter, they make a signal by throwing up handfuls of dust ; if the former, by rumiing their horses to and fro. Mr. Paul Kane, the Canadian artist, describes one of these expeditions which he joined. On their AYay they were visited by twelve Sioux chiefs, who came for the purpose of negotiating a permanent peace ; but whilst smoking the pipe of peace in the council lodge, the dead body of a half-breed, who had gone to a distance from the camp, was brought in newly scalped, and his death was at once attributed to the Sioux. Had not the older and more temperate half-breeds interfered, the young men would have destroyed the twelve chiefs on the spot : as it was, they were allowed to depart un- harmed. Three days afterwards, however, the scouts were observed making the signal of enemies being in sight. Im- mediately a hundred of the best-mounted hastened to the spot, and concealinof themselves behind the shelter of the bank of a stream, sent out two of their number as decoys, to expose themselves to the view of the Sioux. The latter, supposing them to be alone, i-ushed upon them ; whereupon the concealed half-breeds sprang up and poured in a volley which brought down eight. The others escaped, though several must have been wounded. Two small herds having been met with, of which several animals were killed, the scouts one morning brought in woid that an immense herd of bulls was in advance about two miles off They are known in the distance from the cows by their feeding singly, and being scattered over the plain, — whereas the cows keep together, for the purpose of protecting the calves, which are always kept in the centre of the herd. We will start at daybreak with our friend, and a half-breed 120 THE BUFFALO. as a guide. Six hours' hard riding brings us to within a quarter of a mile of the nearest herd. The main body stretches over the plains as far as the eye can reach, the wind blowing in our faces. We should have liked to have attacked them at once, but the guide will not hear of it, as it is contrary to the law of his tribe. We therefore shelter ourselves behind a mound, relieving our horses of their saddles to cool them. In about an hour one hundred and thirty hunters come up, every man loading his gun, looking to the priming, and examining the efficiency of his saddle-girths. The elder caution the less experienced not to shoot each other, — such accidents sometimes occurring. Each hunter then fills his mouth with bullets, which he drops into the gun without wadding ; by this means loading more quickly, and being able to do so whilst his horse is at full speed. We slowly walk our horses towards the herd, Advancing about two hundred yards, the animals perceive us, and start off in the opposite direction, at the top of their speed. We now urge our horses to full gallop, and in twenty minutes are in the midst of the stamping long-haired herd. There cannot be less than four or five thousand in our immediate vicinity, — all bulls ; not a single cow amongst them. The scene now becomes one of intense excitement,- — the huge bulls thundering over the plain in headlong confusion, while the fearless hunters ride recklessly in their midst, keeping up an incessant fire but a few yards from their victims. Upon the fall of each buffalo the hunter merely throws, close to it, some article of his apparel to denote his own prey, and then rushes on to another. The chase continues for about one hour, extending over an area of about six square miles, where may be seen the dead and dying buffaloes to the number of five hundred. In spite of his horsemanship, more than one hunter THE BUFFALO. 121 has been thrown from his steed, in consequence of the innu- merable badger-holes in which the plains abound. Two others are carried back to camp insensible. We have just put a bullet through an enormous bull. He does not fall, but stops, facing us, pawing the earth, bellowing, and glaring savagely. The blood is streaming from his mouth, and it seems as if he must speedily drop. We watch him, admiring his ferocious aspect, combating with death. Suddenly he makes a dash towards us, and we have barely time to escape the charge ; when, reloading, we again fire, and he sinks to the ground. The carts bring in the slaughtered animals to the camp, when the squaws set to work, aided by the men, to cut them up, and prepare them for drying and for making pemmican. The women are soon busily employed in cutting the flesh into slices, and in hanging them in the sun on poles. The dried meat is then pounded between two stones till the fibres separate. About fifty pounds of it is put into a bag of buffalo skin, with about forty pounds of melted fat, which, being mixed while hot, forms a hard and compact mass. Hence its name, in the Cree language, of pemmikon — pevioni signifying meat, and Icon fat — usually, however, spelled pem- mican. One pound of pemmican is considered equal to four pounds of ordinary meat, — and it keeps for years, perfectly good, exposed to any weather. The prairie Indians obtain buffaloes by driving them into huge pounds, where they are slaughtered. The pounds, how- ever, can only be made in the neighbourhood of forests, from whence the logs for their formation can be obtained. The pound consists of a circular fence about 130 feet broad. It is constructed of the trunks of trees laced together with withes, with outside supports about 5 feet high. At one side 122 THE BUFFALO. an entrance is left about 10 feet wide, with a deep trench across it, on the outside of which there is a strong trunk of a tree placed, about a foot from the ground. The animals, on being driven in, leap over this, clearing the trench, which of course prevents them from returning. From the entrance two rows of bushes or posts, which are called '' dead men," diverge towards the direction from which the buffaloes are likely to come. They are placed from 20 feet to 50 feet apart, and the distance between the extremities of the two rows at their outer termination is nearly two miles. Behind each of these " dead men " an Indian is stationed, to prevent the buffaloes when passing up the avenue from breaking out. Meantime, the hunters, mounted on fleet horses, range the country to a distance of eighteen or twenty miles in search of a herd. The buffalo has an unaccountable propensity which makes him endeavour to cross in front of the hunter's horse. They will frequently, indeed, follow a horseman for miles in order to do so. He thus possesses an unfailing means, by a dexterous management of his horse, of conducting the animals into the trap prepared for them. The men also conceal them- selves in hollows and depressions in the ground, so as to assist in turning the herd, should they attempt to escape in that direction. And now some three or four hundi-ed head of shaggy monsters are driven to the expanded mouth of the avenue. The horsemen follow in their rear, and prevent them turning back. Meantime the Indians stationed behind the " dead men" rise, shaking their bows, yelling, and urging them on. Thus they proceed, madly rushing on, the passage grow- ing narrower and narrower, while they, pressed together, are unable to see the dano^er ahead. The foremost at leno-th reach the fatal ditch, and leaping ovei', enter the pound, the THE BUFFALO. 123 rest madly following. " The animals now begin to gallop round and round the fence, looking for some means of escape ; but women and children on the outside, keeping perfectly silent, hold their robes before every orifice, till the whole herd is brought in. They then climb to the top of the fence, and the hunters, who have followed closely in the rear of the buffaloes, spear and shoot with bows and arrows or firearms at the bewildered animals, rapidly becoming frantic with fear and terror in the narrow limits of the pound. A dreadful scene of confusion and slaughter then ensues. The older animals toss the younger. The shouts and screams of the Indians rise above the roar of the bulls, the bellowing of the cows, and the moaning of the calves. The dying struggles of so many powerful animals crowded together, create a revolting scene, dreadful for its excess of cruelty and waste of life."* In consequence of this wholesale and wanton destruction, the buflfalo has greatly diminished ; and the Indians agree in the belief that their people, in like manner, will decrease till none are left. It is computed that for many years past no less than 145,000 bufialoes have annually been killed in British teixitory ; while on the great prairies claimed by the United States a still gTcater number have been slaughtered. In one year — 1855 — on the British side of the boundary, there were 20,000 robes of skins received at York Factory alone ; and probably not fewer than 230,000 head of buflfalo were slaughtered in the previous year. This number would have been suflicient to sustain a population of a quarter of a million. Yet so vast a number of the animals are left to rot on the ground, that in all probability not more than * Hind. 124 THE BUFFALO. 30,000 Indians fed on the flesh of the slaughtered bufla- loes. The civilized fur- traders, however, with greater forethought, take means to preserve the flesh of the animals they kill in the neighbourhood of the forts, so that it may last them through the summer. For this purpose they dig a square pit capable of containing seven or eight hundred carcasses. As soon as the ice in the river is of sufiicient thickness, it is cut with saws into square blocks, of a uniform size, with which the floor of the pit is regularly paved. The blocks are then cemented together by pouring water in between them, and allowing it to freeze into a solid mass. In like manner the walls are built up to the surface of the ground. The head and feet being cut off*, each carcass, without being skinned, is divided into quarters ; and these are piled in layers in the pit, till it is filled up, when the whole is covered with a thick coating of straw, which is again protected from the sun and rain by a shed. In this manner the meat is preserved in good condition through the whole summer, and is considered more tender and better flavoured than when freshly killed. Even in the winter the buffalo continues to range over the plains in a far northern latitude. Mr. Kane mentions seeing a band, numbering nearly ten thousand, at the very northern confines of the Fertile Belt, where the snow was very deep at the time. They, however, had never before appeared in such vast numbers near the Company's establishments. Some, on on that occcasion, were shot within the gates of Foi-t Edmon- ton. They had killed with their horns twenty or thirty horses, in their attempt to drive them from the patches of grass which the horses had laid bare with their hoofs. They were probably migrating northward, to escape the human migxa- THE BUFFALO. 125 tions SO rapidly filling up the southern and western regions which were formerly their pasture-grounds. The Cree Indians use dogs to draw their sleighs. They are powerful, savage animals, having a good deal of the wolf about them. They are considered as valuable as horses, as everything is drawn over the snow by them. When buffaloes have been killed in winter, the dead animals are drawn m by them to the camp ; and two can thus easily drag a large cow buffalo over the snow. The sleigh or cariole used in these regions is formed of a thin flat board about eighteen inches wide, bent up in front, with a straight back behind to lean against. The sides are made of fresh buffalo hide, with the hair completely scraped off* and which, lapping over, entirely covers the front part, so that a person slips into it as into a tin bath. Each carries but one passenger. The driver, on snow-shoes, runs behind to guide the dogs. Each sleigh is drawn l)y four dogs, their backs gaudily decorated with saddle-cloths of various colours, fringed, and embroidered in the most fantastic manner, and with innumerable small bells and feathers. Two men run before on snow-shoes to beat a "track, which the dogs instinctively follow. A long cavalcade of this description has a very picturesque appearance. While thus travelling, our friend Mr. Kane caught sight of a herd of buffaloes, which did not perceive the approach of the party till the foremost sleigh was so near as to excite the dogs, who rushed furiously after them, notwithstanding all the efforts of the drivers to keep tliem back. The spirit of the hunt was at once communicated throua'h the whole line, and the entire party Avere in an instant dashing along at a furious rate after the buflaloes. The frightened animals made a bold dash at length through a deep snow-bank, and 126 THE BUFFALO. attempted to scramble up the steep side of the river, the top of which the foremost one had nearly reached, when, slipping, he rolled down and knocked over those behind, one on the top of the other, into the deep snow-drift, from which men and doo's were struo-Minoj in vain to extricate themselves. It would be impossible to describe the wild scene of uproar that followed. One of the sleighs was smashed, and a man nearly killed ; but at length the party succeeded in getting clear, and repairing the damage. AN INDIAN STRATAGEM. In some districts, where the buffaloes can with difficulty be approached, the Indians employ a stratagem to get them within reach of their arrows or rifles. One of the Indians THE BUFFALO. 127 covers himself in a wolf's skin, another witli a l)ufialo skin. The}^ then crawl on all fours within sight of the huflaloes, and as soon as they have engaged their attention, the pre- tended wolf jumps on the pretended calf, which bellows in imitation of the real one. The buffaloes are easily deceived in this wa}^, as the bellowing is generally peifect, and the herd rush on to the protection of their supposed young, with such impetuosity that they do not })erceive the cheat till they are quite close enough to be shot. On one occasion Mr. Kane and his Indian companion fell in with a solitary bull and cow. On this they made a " calf," as the ruse is called. The cow attempted to spring towards them, but the bull, seeming to understand the trick, tried to stop her by I'unning between them. The cow now dodged and got round him, and ran within ten or fifteen yards of the hunters, with the bull close at her heels, when both men fired, and brought her down. The bull instantly stopped short, and, bending over her, tried to help her up with his nose — evincing the most persevering affection for her ; nor could they get rid of him, so as to cut up the cow, without shooting him also, although at that time of the year bull flesh is not valued as food when the female can be obtained. This, and another example which has l)een given, show that these animals are capable of gi'cat affection for each other. The Indians also occasionally approach a herd from leeward, crawlincj; aloncf the oTound so as to look like huo-e snakes winding their Avay amid the snow or grass, and can thus get sufficiently near to shoot these usually waiy animals. CHAPTER VI. RODENTS. THE BEAVER. F all mammals, the beaver is the most especially fitted to enjoy a social life. When in captivity and away from its kind, it appears to possess but a small amount of intelligence ; it forms no attachments to its human companions, and is utterly indifferent to all around it. But in its native wilds, associated with others of its race, what wondrous engineering skill it exhibits, and how curious are its domestic arrangements ! It is essentially a hard worker. Other animals sport and play and amuse themselves. What young beavei'S may do inside their lodges, it is difficult to say ; but the elders, from morn till nioht, and all nio-ht lono^, labour at their various occupations, evidently feeling that they were born to toil, and willingly accomplishing their destiny. The beaver has fitly been selected as the representative animal of Canada, on account of its industry, perseverance, and hardihood, and the resolute way in which it overcomes difficulties. Certain conditions of country are necessary to its existence, and when it does not find these ready formed, THE BEAVER. 129 by a wonderful provision of Nature its instinct enables it to produce them by its own exertions. Where it can find rivers, brooks, and swampy lakes which maintain an even level throughout the year, the beaver has a tolerably idle life ; but as in most districts the levels of rivers and lakes are apt to sink at various seasons if left to themselves, — whenever an emigrant party of beavers have fixed on a new locality, they set to work to dam up the stream or outlet of the lake, to prevent a catastrophe which might bring ruin and destruc- tion on their new colony. In Nova Scotia, as well as in other parts of North America, large level spaces are found covered with a rich alluvial soil, from which spring up waving lields of wild grass. From this the human settler draws an abundant supply of hay for his stock in winter, and ought to feel deeply indebted to the persevering beaver for the boon. They are known as " wild meadows," and are of frequent occurrence in the backwoods. It is evident that they were formed by the following process : — They are found in valleys through which, in ages past, a brook trickled. A party of beavers arriving, and finding an abundance of food on the side of the hills, would set to work to form a dam of sufficient strength to keep back the stream, till a pond was created, on the edge of which they might Ijuild their dome-shaped habita- tions. Extensive spaces in the woods were thus inundated, and the colony of beavers lived for long years on the banks of their artificial lakes. They, however, lacking foie thought, like many hun^an beings, did not sufficiently look to the future. In process of time the trees, being destroyed, deca^^ed and feJl ; while the soil, washed down from the surrounding hills, filled up the pond constructed by the industrious animals, and tliey were compelled to migrate to some other (370) 9 130 THE BEAVER. BEAVERS AND THEIR LODGES. region, or were destroyed. The dam being thus left unre- paired, the water drained through it, and the level space was converted into the rich meadow which has been described. Beavers' houses, however, are seen in all directions, some- THE BEAVER. 131 times on the banks of these artificial ponds,, at others by the sides of large lakes or rivers. Though varying in size, they all greatly resemble a huge bird's-nest turned upside down. Some are eight feet in diameter, and three feet in height ; while others are very much larger, being no less than sixteen to twenty feet in diameter, and nearly eight feet in height on the outside, and perfectly circular and dome-shaped. The walls and roofs of these lodges, as they are called, are several feet in thickness, so that the measurement of the interior chamber is little more than half that of the exterior. Several beavers inhabit a large lodge. Their beds, which are sepa- rated one from the other, are arranged round the walls, a space in the centre being left free. The exterior also presents a very rough appearance, consisting of sticks apparently thrown loosely together, and entirely denuded of their bark, as also of branches of trees and bushes closely interwoven and mixed with stones, gravel, or mud. They are close to the banks, almost overlapping the water, into which the front part is immersed. The bottom of the stream or lake is invariably deepened in the channel approaching the entrance, thus ensuring a free passage below the ice into the structure. The tunnel is from two to three feet long. In the inner part of the hut the materials are laid with greater care, and more firmly bound together — with mud and grass — than on the outer. Even in one of the larger houses the chamber — for there is but one — is only between two and three feet in height, though as much as nine feet in diameter. It slopes gently upwards from the water. Inside there are two levels : the lower one may be called the hall. On this the animals shake themselves when they emerge from the subaqueous tunnel ; and when dry, clamber up to the upper story, which consists of an elevated 132 THE BEAVER. bed of boughs running round the back of the chamber. It is thickly covered with dry grass and thin shavings of wood. The whole of the interior is smooth, the ends of the timbers and brushwood which project inwards being evenly gnawed off. There are always two entrances — the one serving for summer, and letting in the light ; while another sinks down at a deeper angle, to enable the owners during winter to get below the water. Beavers are especially clean animals, and allow no rubbish to remain in their abode ; and as soon as they have nibbled off the bark from the sticks, they carry them outside, and place them on the roof of their hut, to increase its thickness, or let them float down the stream. During the summer they are employed all day in ranging the banks and cutting provisions for their winter consumption, all their architectural occupations being carried on at night. Their winter stock of food consists of short lengths of willow and poplar, — the bark of which only, however, they eat. These they sink with mud or stones in some quiet pool near their lodge, and when required for food they dive down below the ice and bring up as many as are required for family consumption. Besides their lodge, they form in the neigh- bourhood a long burrow sufficiently broad to enable them to turn with ease. The entrance is at a considerable depth below the surface of the water, and extends from ten to twenty feet into the bank. This burrow serves as a safe * retreat, should their house be broken into, and thither they immediately fly when their permanent abode is attacked. In summer they regale themselves on the roots of the yellow lilies, as well as on other succulent vegetation, and any fruits the country affords. But it is time that we should get a look at the curious THE BEAVER. 183 animal itself. We may paddle gently in a birch-bark canoe over a calm lake, and conceal ourselves among the tall grass in some quiet cove where the yellow water-lilies float on the tranquil surface. Through the still air of evening, the sound of the distant waterfall reaches our ears. Wood ducks fly by in vast numbers ; the rich glow of the evening sky, still suflused with the gorgeous hues of the setting sun, is reflected on the mirror-like expanse of water. Watching with eager eyes, we see at length the water breaking some forty yards away, and the head and back of an animal appears in sight. Now another, and then a third, come into view. After cautiously glancing around, the creatures dive, with a roll like that of a porpoise, but shortly appear again. Our Indian, pushing the light canoe from amid the grass, paddles forward with eager strokes. One of our party fires, and misses, the echoes resounding from the wood-covered shores, and from island to island, till lost in the distance ; but the cautious animals, forewarned, take good care not to appear again during that evening. We find that our only prospect of examining them is by tra[)ping one in the usual Indian fashion, which we will by-and-by describe. Mr. Beaver, as the Indians are fond of calling the animal, has a body about three feet long, exclusive of the tail, which is a foot more. He wears on his back a coat of lono- shinino- hair, generally of a light chestnut colour, but sometimes of a much darker hue, occasionally perfectly black. Below the hair, next the skin, is a fine, soft, grayish-brown wool. He may be known at once by his broad horizontal flattened tail, which is nearly of an oval form, but rises into a slight convexity on its upper surface, and is covered with scales. His fore-feet are armed with nails, and serve for the purpose of hands — indeed, 134 THE BEAVER. he vies with the monkey in the use he can make of them. The hind-feet are webbed, and with these — together with his tail, which acts as a rudder — he is enabled to swim rapidly through the water. The beaver is a rodent, with a short head and broad blunt snout, and his incisor teeth are remarkably large and hard, enabling him to bite through wood with wonderful THE BEAVER. ease and rapidity. So great is their hardness, that formerly the Indians were accustomed to use them as knives for cutting- bone and fashioning their horn-tipped spears. The beaver, it has been said, always chooses banks by the side of a lake or river of sufficient depth to escape being frozen to the bottom, even during the hardest frost. Thus, he can at all times obtain a supply of water, on which his THE BEAVER. 135 existence depends ; indeed, the bark on whicli he lives requires to be moistened before it becomes fit for food. When instinct teaches a colony of beavers that the water is not of sufficient depth to escape freezing throughout, they provide against the evil by making such a dam as has been mentioned, across the stream, or the outlet of the lake, at a convenient distance from their habitations. The plan of these dams varies according to the character of the lake or stream. If the current is but slight, they build the dam almost straight ; but where the water runs at a rapid rate, it is almost always constructed with a consider- able curve, the convex side towards the stream. Frequently, in such cases, if there is any small island in the centre, it is taken advantage of, and the dam is built out to it from either bank. They make use of a variety of materials ; employing drift- wood when it can be obtained, to save themselves the trouble of cutting down trees. This they tow to the spot, and sink it horizontally with mud and stones. They also employ pieces of green willows, birch, and poplars, intermixing the whole with mud and gravel, in a manner which contributes greatly to the strength of the dam. They observe, however, no order or method in the work, placing their materials as they can obtain them, except that they make the dam main- tain its regular sweep, and form all parts of equal strength. They carry the mud and stones in their fore-paws ; and in one night will collect as much as amounts to many thousands of their little loads. When drift-wood is not to be found, they obtain the timber they require from the groves skirting the lake or pond. To do this, they squat on then- hams, and rapidly gnaw through the stems of trees from six to twelve or fourteen inches in diameter, with their powerful incisors. Sometimes a tree will not fall prostrate, the boughs 136 THE BEAVER. being caught by its neighbours. But the beaver is not to be disappointed ; he sets to work and gnaws away a little above the first place, thus giving it a fresh start, in order that the impetus may disengage it from the branches which keep it u]). The ti^ee being cut up, the beavers, uniting, tow the pieces down to the dam. They then plunge into the water and bring up the mud and small stones with which to keep it sunk. A lono^ constructed dam, bv being frequently repaired with fresh mud, becomes at length a solid bank, cap- able of resisting a heavy rush, either of water or ice ; and as the willow, poplar, and birch generally take root and shoot up, they by degrees form a regularly planted hedge, which in some places be- comes so tall that birds have been known to build their nests among the branches. These beaver THE BEAVER AT WORK.. dams also form bridges, over which two or three men may pass abreast, and leat.l their horses, without risk of breaking through. So rapidly do the members of the industrious community labour, that even the most serious damage to their dams, or habitations, is quickly repaired. They always carry THE BEAVER. 137 the mud and stones in their fore-paws, pressed against their chins, but they drag the wood with their teeth. The creature does not employ its broad tail, as was once supposed, to plaster down its mud-work, nor does it use it as a vehicle for transporting materials ; its sole object being to guide it when in the water, and as a counterpoise, by moving it in an upward direction, to the tendency it would otherwise have of sinking head-foremost. The creatures cover the out- side of their houses every autumn with fresh mud as soon as the frost becomes severe. By this means it freezes as hard as stone, and prevents their common enemy, the wolverene, disturbino^ them durins^ the winter. From the beaver beinff seen to flap its tail when moving over its work, but especially when about to plunge into the water, has arisen the idea that it uses this member as a trowel. This custom it preserves even when it becomes tame and domesticated, particularly when suddenly startled. The beaver, says Captain Hardy, travels a long distance from his house in search of materials, both for building and food. He mentions having seen the stumps of some trees which had been felled, at least three-quarters of a mile from the beaver lodges. Its towing power in the water, and that of traction on dry land, is astonishing. The following account shows the coolness and enterprise of the animals, described by a witness to the fact : — The narrator having constructed a raft for the purpose of poling round the edge of the lake to get at the houses of the beaver, which were built in a swampy savannah, otherwise inaccessible, it had been left in the evening moored at the edge of the lake, close to the camp, and about a quarter of a mile from the nearest beaver's house, the poles lying on it. Next morning, on going down to the 138 THE BEAVER. raft, the poles were missing ; so, cutting fresh ones, he started with the Indians towards the beaver village. On reaching their abodes, one of the poles was found deposited on the top of the houses. In a community of beavers there are frequently some who appear to do no work, and are called by the Canadian trappers Les paresseux, or Idlers. They live apart from the rest, tak- ing up their abodes in long tunnels, which they excavate. Several inhabit the same burrow ; and being males, the idea is that they have been conquered in the combats which take place among the males when seeking their mates, and thus, like monks of old, have retired from the world, — or perhaps it may be only for a period, till they have regained sufficient courage and strength to sally forth, and commence a happier existence with the partner of their choice. They are far more careless of their safety than the other beavers, and are thus easily caught by the trappers. The body of the beaver contains a curious odoriferous sub- stance, called by the trappers barkstone, but more scientifically "castor," or "castoreum." It is contained in two little bags about the size of a hen's egg, and is of a brownish, unctuous consistency. At one time it was supposed to possess valu- able medicinal properties. It is now, however, chiefly em- ployed by perfumers. The beavers themselves are strangely attracted by this substance, and when scenting it at a distance will invariably make their way to it. It is said that the in- habitants of a particular lodge go forth, and having rid them- selves of their superabundant castoreum at a little distance, return home ; when the beavers of another lodge, scenting the castoreum, proceed to the same spot, and covering it over with a layer of earth and leaves, deposit their own castoreum THE BEAVER. 139 upon the heap. After a time, the former beavers go through the same process ; and this is continued until a mound of three or four feet in height has been raised. It is difficult to account for the object of this strange proceeding. It was not, however, till of late years that the sagacious Indians dis- covered that the castoreum was a certain bait for the animals themselves. Formerly, the bait they employed was a piece of green aspen, beaten up, and placed near the trap. At length an Indian tried whether a male might not be caught by adding some of the castoreum. By that time steel traps had been introduced, instead of the clumsy wooden traps before used. Not only were the males caught, but the females also ; and the trappers were now able with their steel traps to catch vast numbers of the infatuated animals. It is said that the creatures, when perceiving the scent, will sit upright, snuffing about in every direction, and squealing with excite- ment. The younger animals, however, are those chiefly caught. The old ones are often too cunning ; and it is affirmed that, instead of touching the bait, they will cover up the trap with mud and stones till a mound has been raised, and then, depositing their superabundant castoreum upon it, take their departure. We must conclude our account by again quoting Captain Hardy. Of the infatuation of this animal for castoreum he saw several instances. " A trap was fastened by its steel chain to a stake, to prevent the beaver, when caught, taking it away. It slipped, however, and the beaver swam away with the trap, and it was looked upon as lost. Two nights after- wards he was again taken in a trap, with the other fast on his thigh. Another time a beaver, passing over a trap to get the castoreum, had his hind-leo^ broken. With his teeth he cut 140 THE MUSK-RAT, OR MUSQUASH. the broken leg off, and went away. It was supposed that he would not come again ; but two nights afterwards he was found fast in a trap — in each case tempted by the castoreum. The stake was always licked, or sucked, clean. The substance seems to act as a soporific, as the creatures, after tasting it, always remain a day without coming out of their houses. So wary generally are the beavers, that a trapper is always care- ful not to leave his scent on the spot. To avoid this he fre- quently cuts down a tree, and walks on its branches towards the edge of the path, afterwards withdrawing it, and plenti- fully sprinkling water around." The Indians and Canadian voyageurs eat the flesh of the beaver, esteeming it, when roasted with the skin on — the hair having been singed off — the most dainty of dishes. Early in this century, when beaver fur was much in demand for the manufacture of hats, upwards of 120,000 skins were exported from Quebec alone in one year. The warfare long waged against the unfortunate rodents now goes on with somewhat diminished activity. A change of fashion — the substitution of silk for beaver — has probably saved them from utter exter- mination. The scientific name of their tribe, Castor, was lono; a popular term for a hat ; but now that their fur has ceased to be employed as formerly, the term itself appears to have gone out of use. THE MUSK-RAT, OR MUSQUASH. Voyaging along the margin of a lake, we may see on the shores numbers of little flattened oval nests composed of reeds and sedges, while numerous holes in the bank, with quantities of shells, chiefly of the fresh-water mussel, scattered round, show the entrance to the habitations of the musquash, or ondatra. THE MUSK-RAT, OR MUSQUASH. 141 called also the musk-rat. As evening approaches, the creatures may be seen in fine balmy weather gambolling on the surface, swimming rapidly here and there, or now and then diving below, apparently fearless of the passing canoe. The little sedge-built hut of the water-rat is constructed much in the same way as the beaver's larger mansion. The creature itself looks somewhat like the beaver, and some of its habits are also similar. It is rather more than two feet in total length, of which measurement about ten inches is occupied by the tail. The upper part of the body is of a dark brown colour, tinged in parts with a reddish hue, while the lower part is ashy gray. Its tail is flattened, but vertical. Like the beaver, it is furnished with an undercoat of soft downy fur. Its safety has been provided for by its peculiar colour, which is so like that of the muddy bank on which it dwells, that a keen eye can alone detect it. Its hinder feet are webbed, the imprint on the soft mud being very similar to that of a duck. With the exception of the flesh of the water-mussel, its food is vegetable. It is a great depredator in gardens, which it has been known to plunder of carrots, turnips, and maize — the stalks of which it cuts close down to the ground. It is sought for on account of it-s fur, which is very valu- able. The traps are set close to a tree, and when one of the creatures is caught, its companions will instantly attack it and tear it to pieces. Generally, however, in its struggles to get free, it carries the trap under the surface, and is thus drowned. Audubon, the naturalist, gives us an interesting description of them : — '' They are very lively, playful animals, when in their proper element — the water — and on a calm night, in a sequestered pool, may often be seen crossing and recrossing in every direction, leaving long ripples in the watei- Ijehind them, 142 PRAIRIE-DOGS. while others stand for a few moments on tufts of grass, stones, or logs, and then plunge over, one after the other, into the water. At the same time others are feeding on the grassy bank, dragging off the roots of various kinds of plants, or digging underneath the edge. These animals seem to form a little community of social playful creatures, who only require to be unmolested in order to be happy." It has been proposed to acclimatize these little rodents in England, under the idea that thus a valuable addition to the bank fauna of sluggish English streams would be obtained. PRAIRIE-DOGS. Vast cities, with regularly laid streets, are often met with in extensive level spots on the prairie. The inhabitants are, however, not men, but creatures the size of a guinea-pig — rodents — a species of marmot. In their habit of associ- ating together in communities, they put us in mind of the industrious beaver ; but they are idle little fellows, evidently liking play better than work. Their heads are not unlike those of young terrier-pups, and their bodies are of a light brown colour. They have little stumpy tails, which, when excited, they constantly jerk up and twist about in a curious fashion. Their habitations are regular cones raised two or three feet above the gi'ound, with a hole in the apex, which is vertical for the depth of two or three feet, and then descends obliquely into the interior. From the peculiar yelp or short squeaky bark which they give, the hunters call them prairie- dogs. In each separate community, which consists of many thou- sand individuals, there is a president dog, who seems to have especial charge of the rest. As a stranger approaches, the PRAIRIE-DOGS. 143 creatures who are out of their houses scamper back as fast as their legs will cany them, and concealing all but their heads and tails, utter loud barks at the intruder. This done, the greater number dive out of sight with a curious somersault, their little tails whisking in the air. The chief dog, and per- haps two or three other sentinels with him^ remain on the PRAIRIE-DOGS. tops of their houses barking lustily till the enemy gets within a few paces of them, when they also disappear, and the town remains silent and deserted. The traveller who wishes to observe their habits, by lying concealed and silent for a few minutes, may see after a time some little fellow pop his head out of his house, when he gives a few barks. It serves as a signal to the rest that danger has disappeared, and immediately lU PRAIRIE-DOGS. the others emerge from their houses and begin to frisk about as usual. The holes of these curious creatures are shared by two very different species of guests, one of which, at all events, must prove most unwelcome. One of these is a little owl, which may be seen sitting in front of the burrows or flying about near the ground ; or, when the sun sinks low, hopping through the town, and picking up the lizards and chameleons which everywhere abound. He can apparently do no harm to the inhabitants, if he fails to benefit them. The other inmates are rattlesnakes, who, regardless of any objections which may be raised by the dogs, take possession of their holes, and when the sun shines lie coiled up at their sides, now and then erecting their treacherous heads and rattling an angry note of warning, should a thoughtless pup by any chance approach too near. The Indians suppose that all three creatures live on the most friendly footing ; but as the rattle- snakes when killed have frequently been found with the bodies of the little prairie-dogs in their insides, their object in establishino^ themselves in the localitv seems verv evident. The poor little dog, indeed, leads a life of constant alarm, with numerous enemies ever on the watch to surprise him. Hawks and eagles, hovering high in air, often pounce down and carry off unfortunate members of the community in their powerful talons, The savage cayote, or prairie-wolf, when ])ressed by hunger during the winter, frequently attacks the dome-shaped habitation of the little animal, and with claws and teeth tears to pieces the walls, plunging his nose into the passage which he has opened, and working his way down till he seizes the trembling little inmate, who in vain retreats to the inmost recesses of his abode. PllAIRIE-DOGS. 145 It has been supposed that the prairie-dog hibernates ; but this is not the case, though he lays in a store of provision for winter consumption — he being as lively at that period as at any other, though he wisely prefers keeping within the house while the icy blasts blow across the plains. The creature is especially tenacious of life, and even when shot through the body will manage to gain his burrow at rapid speed. He does not run into it, but, like the rabbit, he makes a jump in the air, turns what looks like a somersault, and, nourishing his hind-legs and whisking his tail, disappears as if by magic. In an instant afterwards, however, his little sparkling eyes and nose may be seen above the ground; and if no stranger is in sight, he, with the rest of the community, will commence gambolling and frisking about, forgetful of his numerous foes and previous alarm. It is very difficult to obtain a specimen of the prairie-dog, as, even if mortally wounded, he generally tumbles into his hole before being captured. The inhabitants of the plain, however, manage to catch the animal alive by dragging a cask of water to one of their holes which does not communicate with the rest of the village. They then pour the water down the hole, either drowning the creature or com- pelling him to come out. He is very soon reconciled to a state of captivity, and after two days appears on the most intimate terms with his captors. Even when turned loose again the creatures will not leave the neighbourhood of the house, but burrow under the foundation, making themselves quite at home, and fearlessly come out to be fed when summoned by a whistle. They become, indeed, very interesting and pretty little pets. We shall meet with a similar animal on the })ampas of South America, and which has also the companionship of a little owl. (379) , 10 146 THE PORCUPINE. There are several other species of marmot in America One is called the Quebec Marmot, which lives a solitary life, making an almost perpendicular burrow in dry ground at a distance from water. The beautiful little, often-tamed Woodchuck, is another American marmot. It makes a deep burrow in the sides of hills, lining the chamber at the inner end with dry leaves and grass. It may frequently be seen by the traveller run- ning rapidly along the tops of fences, as if to keep company with him — now getting ahead, then stopping and looking back to see if he is coming, and then going on again, tilL growing tired of the amusement, it gives a last stare and then scampei*s back the way it has come. THE PORCUPINE. Unattractive as the fretful porcupine appears when con- sidered as a means of satisfying man's hunger, it is hunted throughout North America for the sake of its flesh, which forms an especially dainty dish, not only in the opinion oi the Indians, but in that of every European who has partaken of it. The creature dwells in small caverns, either under a pile of boulders, or amid the roots of large trees ; but it also, with its sharp claws, easily climbs up the trunks, and may sometimes be seen reposing on their very summits, where it feeds on the bark of the young branches, or the berries when they become ripe. The Canadian porcupine is also known as the cawquaw or urson. It is nearly four feet long altogether, the head and body measuring upwards of three feet, while the tail is about three inches in length. It is less completely defended with spines than the porcupines of other countries — part of its THE PORCUriNK. 147 THE PORCUPINE. body being co veered with long, coarse brown hair, which ahnost conceals the deeply-set, short, pointed quills, except those on the head, hind-quarters, and tail. The spines are about three inches long. When the animal is brought to bay, it sets them u|) in a fan-like shape, and presents a formidable row of points turned towards its op- ponent. When attacked, it defends itself with its thick, muscular tail ; and wherever it strikes, it leaves a number of its easily-detached quills, with barbed points, sticking fii-mly in its opponent's body. These spines are of a dull white colour, the points being dark. Awkward as the porcupine looks, it can gallop along at con- siderable speed ; and wlien surprised, generally escapes to its rocky den — or if it gains a tree, scrambles up the tiunk at a rapid rate. A broad trail leads to the porcupine's den, by which it is easily discovered, as also by the ordure outside the entrance. A number of these paths lead from the den to its feeding-ground : in the autumn to a beech grove, on the mast or nuts of which it revels ; and in the winter- time, to some tall hemlock or spruce trees. Tlie Indian hunter also discovers it by the marks of its claws on the bark ; and should he be unfortunate in his search for larger game, he seldom fails to obtain a roast of porcupine. The creature is hunted by the Indians with little dogs, which seem to take great delight in the sport, and, in spite of the formidable weapons of theii' opponents, will rush in an