^o^^^tii^e. 
 
 ^^USRkV^^^ 
 
 NORTH CAROLINA STATE UNIVERSITY 
 
 S02842968 
 
This book is due on the date indicated unless 
 recalled by the Libraries. Books not returned on 
 time are subject to replacement charges. 
 Borrowers may access their library accounts at: 
 http://www.lib.ncsu.edu/ads/borrow.html 
 
Siui>i-.MS FKESsiNt. Cheese. 
 
Cheese Making 
 
 CHEDDAR 
 
 SWISS 
 
 BRICK 
 
 LIMBURGER 
 
 EDAM 
 
 COTTAGE 
 
 BY 
 
 JOHN W. DECKER 
 
 PROFESSOR OF DAIRYING, OHIO STATE UNIVERSITY ; INSTRUCTOR IN 
 DAIRYING, UNIVERSITY OF WISCONSIN 
 
 1890-1899 
 
 ILLUSTRATED 
 
 COLUMBUS. OHIO 
 
 PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR 
 
 1905^ 
 
 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 
 
COPYRIGHTED BY 
 
 JOHN W. DECKER 
 1900 
 
 PRESS OF 
 
 THE BERLIN PRINTING COMPANY 
 
 COLUMBUS, OHIO 
 
TO 
 
 STEPHEN MOULTON BABCOCK. Ph. D. 
 
 CIIIKI- i:H1 MIST Ol Till WISCONSIN EM'EKIMENT STATION 
 
 WHO, AS A TEACHKK, AND LATKK AS A CO-WOKKER, BY PATIENT LABOK 
 
 AND WISE COUNSEL, INSIMKED THE AUTHOR WITH A 
 
 GREATER LOVE KOR THE I'ROKESSION 
 
 OK DAIRYING, 
 
 THIS BOOK IS INSCRIBED 
 
 
 ^fj^P' 
 

 ^ 
 
 
 >> 
 
 
 ■J 
 
 
 -^ 
 
 K. 
 
 
 
 
 ,. 
 
 r 
 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 7 
 
 } 
 
 JSsW' 
 
 V 
 
 
 
 'V. 
 
 ( 
 
 
 •vi. 
 
 
 -'- 
 
 N 
 
 - 
 
 Experiment Station Uimht 
 ateOdCK. F.. lower at 10 dcK V 
 (See paiic 99 ) 
 
PREFACE 
 
 The American dairy school is of recent origin, the first one 
 having- been started in Wisconsin in 1891. 
 
 With the dairy school came the need of pedagogic state- 
 ments of the subjects taught therein. 
 
 It fell to the lot of the author of this book to make such a 
 statement of cheese making. His first attempt was printed in 
 1893 under the title of "Cheddar Cheese Making." This first 
 attempt met with an encouraging reception and was translated 
 into the French language by Eniile Castel for the use of the 
 Canadians in the Province of Quebec. A second and revised 
 edition under the same name was printed in 1895. In 1900 the 
 book was again revised and the scope enlarged to include Swiss, 
 Brick, Limburger, Edam and Cottage cheese, and the title 
 changed to that of "Cheese Making." The edition printed at 
 that time is now exhausted and our knowledge of the subject 
 has increased, requiring a number of important changes to bring 
 the book up to date. 
 
 Because of their relation to the subject, milk testing, and 
 dairy bacteriology have been touched upon briefly. An ex- 
 haustive treatment has not been necessary as there are text- 
 books treating- these subjects. 
 
 This is primarily a text-book and not a reference volume. 
 To make the latter out of it would make it unwieldly for the 
 former purpose. An analytical index, a complete table of con- 
 tents, and references to original matter will, however, assist 
 the busy man, student or instructor to look up references 
 quickly or to find original data. 
 
 Columbus, Ohio, January 1, 1905. 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 Chapter I. — The Constitution of Milk. 
 
 1. Purpose of milk. 2. Comoosition. 3. Man's use of milk. 4. Al- 
 buminoids. 5. Casein. 6. Albumen. 7. Albumose. 8. Ash. 9. Milk 
 sugar. 10. Fat. 11. In emulsion. 12. Creaming of milk. 13. Effect 
 of fat on quality of cheese. 14. Effect of fat on quantity of cheese. 
 15. Colostrum milk. 16. Curd. 17. Whey. 18. Composition of whey.~ 
 19. Losses of fat in whey. 20. Whey from Swiss cheese. 21. Constitu- 
 ents recovered in cheese. 
 Chapter II.— Secretion and Contamination of Milk. 
 
 22. Structure of the udder. 23. Secretion of the milk. 24. Time of 
 secretion. 25, Cause of bad flavors. 26. From food eaten. 27. Flavors; 
 by absorption. 28. Bacterial infection. 29. Varieties of bacteria in milk. 
 30. How milk is infected. 31. The Wisconsin curd test. 32. Care of 
 milk. 33. Aeration. 34. Varieties of aerators. 35. The barn air. 36. 
 Keep cows clean. 37. Cooling the milk. 38. Covering the cans. 
 39. Kinds of utensils. 40. Care of utensils. 41. Factory cleanliness. 
 42. Rubber boots. 43. Scrubbing the floor. 44. Soaps. 45. Scrubbing 
 brushes. 46. Towels. 47. Watch the corners. 48. Shelves for trinkets, 
 49. How to kill moulds. 60. Antiseptics. 61. To prevent dust. 52. 
 Factory surroundings. 
 
 Chapter III. — Milk Testing. 
 
 53. Rapid progress. 54. The Babcock test. 55. The bottle. 56 The 
 pipette. 57. The acid measure. 58. The centrifuge. 59. To make the 
 test. 60. Strength of acid. 61. Speed of the centrifuge. 62. Reading the 
 fat. 63. Testing cheese. 64. Quevenne lactometer. 65. Board of health 
 lactometer. 66. Detecting watered milk. 67. Composite samples. 68. 
 Milk thief. 69. Sample jars should be marked to prevent mistakes. 
 70. Milk samples, how preserved. 
 
 Chapter IV. — Enzymes. 
 
 71. Two kinds of ferments. 72. Galactase. 73. Rennet extract and 
 pepsin. 74. Rennets, how preserved. 75. How rennet extract is made. 
 76. Reliable brands to be preferred. 77. Effect of heat on rennet. 78. 
 Rennet does not exhaust itself. 79. Effect of acidity on the action of 
 rennet. 80. Rennet extracts not alike. 81. Rennet action dependent on 
 
X Table of Contents. 
 
 three things. 82. J. B. Harris discovers the rennet test. 83. Rennet a 
 powerful agent. 84. Glass graduates for measuring. 85. The Monrad 
 rennet test. 86. Use thermometer to stir milk. 87. The Marschall 
 rennet test. 88. How to use the test. 89. Marschall tests not alike. 
 90. Errors to be avoided with Marschall apparatus. 
 
 Chapter V. — The Deportment of Rennet. 
 
 91. Experiments in rennet action. 92. Efifect of acid and alkali. 93. 
 Effect of water in milk. 94. The effect of salt (NaCl). 95. The effect 
 of temperature. 96. Effect of Anaesthetics. 97. Thermal Destruction 
 point. 98. Efifect of strength of rennet solution. 99. Soluble calcium 
 salts required for rennet action. 100. Effect of milk preservatives. 
 101. Scale pepsin compared with rennet. 
 
 Chapter VI. — Cheddar Cheese. 
 
 102. History of Cheddar cheese. 103. Rise of factory system; in 
 New York. 104. In Ohio. 105. In Wisconsin. 106. Two processes of 
 manufacture. 107. Cheddar system proper. 108. Test for over-ripe milk. 
 109. Stir milk to keep cream down. 110. Ripening the milk. 111. How 
 to ripen milk to the right point. 112. Definition of a starter. 113. What 
 to use for a starter. 114. Lactic ferment starter. 115. What not to use 
 for a starter. 116. Milk must not be too ripe. 117. Adding the color. 
 118. Setting the milk. 119. Rennet should be diluted. 120. The use of 
 pepsin. 121. When the curd is ready to cut. 
 
 Chapter VII. — Cutting and Heating the Curd. 
 
 122. Firming the curd. 123. How to cut a fast working curd. 124. 
 Use horizontal curd-knife. 125. How to insert the horizontal knife. 
 126. How to take the knife out. 127. How to insert the perpendicular 
 knife. 128. Rapidity of stroke a factor. 129. Keep curd moving. 130. 
 When to begin heating. 131. Cooking an overripe curd. 132. Stirring 
 the curd. 133. Curd rakes. 134. McPherson curd rake. 135. How to 
 tell a proper cook. 
 
 Chapter VIII. — Drawing the Whey — Dipping and Milling the 
 Curd. 
 
 136. Measuring acid. 137. Threads due to acid. 138. Use of acidi- 
 meter. 139. Result of too much acid. 140. Curd rack. 141. Racks, 
 how used. 142. Cutting the curd into blocks. 143. Turning the curd. 
 144. Pin-holey curds. 145. Washing curds. 146. Use of a curd sink. 
 147. Proper form of curd sink. 148. How to fill the curd sink. 149. Keep 
 the curd warm. 150. Piling curds. 151. When a curd is ready to mill. 
 152. Description of curd mills. 153. Pohl mill. 154. Whitlow mill. 155. 
 
Table of Contents. xi 
 
 McPherson mill. 156. Gosselin mill. 157. The Harris mill. 158. The 
 Fuller mill. 159. The Barnard mill. 160. The Kasper mill. 161. Ad- 
 vantages for and objections to knife mills. 162. Stirring the curd. 
 163. Time to mill. 164. Effect of dry acid. 165. How to expel gas. 166. 
 Steaming curds. 
 Chapter IX. — Salting and Pressing the Curd. 
 
 167. Condition of a curd for salting. 168. What salt is. 109. Where 
 salt comes from. 170. Impurities in salt. ITl. What salt does to cheese. 
 172. Effect of too much salt. 173. Curds not always salted the same 
 amount. 174. Salt should be evenly distributed. 175. Application of 
 salt. 176. Temperature for salting. 177. Conditions of salted curd for 
 pressing. 178. Removing fat. 179. Curd must not be too warm. 
 180. Curd must not be too cold. 181. Common packages of cheese. 
 182. Kinds of bandage used. 183. How the bandage is put onto the 
 cheese. 184. Cheese must be the same size. 185. Tighten the press 
 slowly. 186. Dressing the cheese. 187. The Wilson hoop. 188. How 
 to get cheese dry. 189. Do not pound the hoops. 190. Greasing the 
 cheese. 191. Cracks in cheese. 192. Cheese in cold storage. 193. Clean- 
 ing mouldy cheese. 194. Cheese cloth circles. 195. Press cloths. 196. 
 Keep a daily record. 
 Chapter X. — Curing and Shipping the Cheese. 
 
 197. Changes in curing. 198. Curing at different temperatures. 199. 
 Curing shelves, how made. 200. Arrangement of cheese. 201. Moisture 
 in curing room. 202. The Hygroscope. 203. The Psychrometer. 204. 
 Condition of the curing room air. 205. Supplying moisture. 206. 
 Shrinkage in curing. 207. Central curing rooms. 208. Paraffining 
 cheese. 209. Cheese, how boxed. 210. Scale boards. 211. How cheese 
 are weighed. 212. Marking of weights. 213. Buyer's stencil. 214. How 
 to sell cheese. 
 Chapter XI.— Judging Cheese. 
 
 215. Ideal cheese. 216, Flavor. 217. Texture. 218. Salt. 219. Color. 
 220. Gross appearance. 221. Wisconsin factory cheese makers' scale. 
 222. Corky cheese. 223. Hard, crumbly or mealy cheese. 224. Weak 
 bodied, pasty cheese. 225. Cracked cheese. 226. Poison cheese. 227. 
 Rusty spots in cheese. 
 Chapter XII.— Hints on the Construction and Operation of Cheese 
 
 Factories. 
 
 228. Independent factories. 229. Ontario cheese factories. 230. Good 
 foundations. 231. Dimensions. 232. Store room. 233. Curing room. 
 234. Sills. 235. Curing-room floor. 236. Vat-room floor. 237. Curing- 
 
xii Table of Contents. 
 
 room walls. 238. Doors and windows. 239. Joists. 240. Stone cellar. 
 241. Curing cellars. 242. Cellar, how ventilated. 243. Sub-earth ducts. 
 244. Use of a well. 245.* Number and size of tiles. 246. Water motor 
 fans for driving air. 247. Boiler room. 248. Building should be raised. 
 249. Water supply. 250. Hot water. 251. Septic tank. 252. Sewer trap. 
 258. Whey tank, how built. 254. Elevating whey. 255. Bath room. 
 256. Equipment. 257. Water boxes of vats should be lined. 258. Curd 
 sinks. 259. Pressing fiats. 260. Sink, how made. 261. Milk, how lifted. 
 262. Milk testing. 263. Appliances needed. 264. Curing shelves. 265. 
 Cost of factory. 
 
 Chapter XIII. — Organization of Cheese Factory Association. 
 
 266. Plans of operation. 267. By-laws for a cheese factory associa- 
 tion. 268. Test committee. 269. Quorum. 270. Rates for making. 271. 
 Figuring dividends. 272. Factory statement. 
 
 Chapter XIV.— Swiss Cheese — Its Characteristics. 
 
 273. Sweet curd cheese. 274. Switzer, where made. 275. Descrip- 
 tion of Switzer cheese. 276. Determining quality of cheese. 277. Flavor. 
 278. Texture. 279. Color. 280. Grades of cheese. 281. How cheese is 
 tried. 
 
 Chapter XV. — Swiss Cheese — From Milk to Curing Cellar. 
 
 282. Selection of the milk. 283. Cause of Glaesler cheese. 284. Ren- 
 net test should be used. 285. Use of a starter. 286. Test of rennet 
 solution not correct. 287. Swiss kettles. 288. Filling the kettle. 289. 
 Setting the milk. 290. Cutting Swiss curd. 291. The Swiss harp. 
 292. The wire stirrer. 298. Another method of cutting. 294. Inserting 
 the wooden brake. 295. Cooking the curd. 296. Testing the curd for 
 firmness. 297. Dipping the curd. 298. Pressing drum Swiss. 299. Press- 
 ing block Swiss. 300. Marking cheese. 301. Salting the cheese in brine. 
 302. Salting with dry salt. 
 
 Chapter XVI. — Swiss Cheese— Work in the Cellar. 
 
 303. Starting the eyes. 304. Reason for making block Swiss. 305, 
 Handling on the shelves. 306. The second cellar. 307. Handling block 
 Swiss in the cellar. 308. Length of curing period. 309. Boxing drum 
 Swiss. 310. Boxing block Swiss. 311. Whey butter. 
 
 Chapter XVII. — Brick Cheese. 
 
 312. Characteristics of brick cheese. 313. Quality of milk required. 
 314. Milk when received. 315. Quantity of rennet required. 816. How 
 cooked. 317. Testing curd for firmness. 318. Dipping the curd. 319. 
 
Table of Contents. xiii 
 
 Brick cheese molds. 320. Draining table. 321. Draining boards. 322. 
 Filling the molds. 323. Pressing the cheese. 324. Salting the cheese. 
 325. Curing the cheese. 326. Appearance of gas; remedy. 327. Curing 
 process. 328. How cheese is shipped. 329. Fancy styles. 
 
 Chapter XVIII. — Limburger Cheese. 
 
 330. Origin of Limburger. 331. Characteristics of Limburger. 332. 
 Kind of milk required. 333. Utensils used. 334. Setting the milk. 335. 
 Cooking Limburger curd. 336. Dipping the curd. 337. Limburger 
 pressing table. 338. Salting Limburger. 339. Curing Li'mburger. 340. 
 Shipping Limburger. 341. Cause of putrefactive fermentation. 
 
 Chapter XIX. — Edam Cheese. 
 
 342. Characteristics of Edam cheese. 343. Origin of Edam. 344. 
 Farming in Holland. 345. Edam cheese in Holland.. 346. Treatment of 
 cheese for market. 347. Description of an Edam market. 348. Possi- 
 bilities of manufacture in America. 349. Market for Edam in America. 
 3*50. Methods of manufacture. 351. Quality of milk required. 352. Hand- 
 ling the curd for Edam. 353. Edam molds. 354. Methods of pressing. 
 355. Hooping the curd. 356. Dressing Edam cheese. 357. Salting 
 Edam. 358. Curing Edam. 359. Shelves for new cheese. 360. Length 
 of curing period. 361. Preparing the cheese for market. 
 
 Chapter XX. — Cottage Cheese. 
 
 362. Utilization of skim milk. 363. Methods of manufacture. 364. 
 Curdling power of acid. 365. Effect of fat on per cent of acid in milk. 
 366. Abnormal fermentations. 367. Measuring the acidity. 368. Moist- 
 ure, how regulated. 369. Dipping the cheese. 370. Hydrochloric acid 
 cheese. 371. Marketing the cheese. 372. Soft cream cheese. 
 
Chapter I. 
 THE CONSTITUTION OF MILK. 
 
 1. PURPOSE OF MILK. 
 
 Cow's milk is given for the primary purpose of nourishing 
 the young calf until it can seek other food in variety. 
 
 2. COMPOSITION. 
 
 One might therefore expect to find that it contains all the 
 food elements necessary for the building up of the young animal's 
 body. An analysis reveals the presence of water, for the young 
 animal's body is in the largest proportion composed of water; 
 ash for the bones ; nitrogenous material in the form of casein, 
 albumose and albumen to nourish the muscles, hair, hoofs and 
 horns; and carbonaceous matter in the form of sugar and fat to 
 maintain the heat of the body. 
 
 The following table will give a fair idea of the average com- 
 position of milk as delivered to a New York cheese factory ; the 
 figures being taken from Bulletin 82, December, 1894, Geneva, 
 New York Experiment Station : 
 
 TABLE SHOWING AVERAGE MONTHLY COMPOSITION OF MILK. 
 
 Month. 
 
 II 
 
 
 IX o 
 
 o 
 
 1 
 
 m 
 
 t6 
 
 
 li 
 
 IXC/3W 
 
 May 
 
 87.40 
 
 12.60 
 
 3.63 
 
 8.97 
 
 3 14 
 
 2 44 
 
 32 
 
 0.38 
 0.43 
 44 
 
 5.83 
 5.85 
 5.78 
 5.66 
 
 
 87.53 
 
 12.47 
 
 3.55 
 
 8 92 
 
 3 07 
 
 2 35 
 
 29 
 
 July 
 
 87.63 
 
 12.37 
 
 3.59 
 
 8.78 
 
 3 00 
 
 2 27 
 
 29 
 
 August 
 
 87.51 
 
 12 49 
 
 3.78 
 
 8.71 
 
 3.05 
 
 2.32 
 
 0.31 
 
 0.42 
 
 September . . . 
 
 87.33 
 
 12.67 
 
 3.75 
 
 8.92 
 
 3.10 
 
 2.41 
 
 0.34 
 
 0.35 
 
 5.82 
 
 October .... 
 
 86.87 j 13.13 
 
 4.00 
 
 9.13 
 
 3.36 
 
 2.60 
 
 0.36 
 
 0.40 
 
 5.77 
 
 These samples were not fresh when received by the chemist, 
 part of the albumen having been changed to albumose. It is 
 
Cheese Making. 
 
 given in the table as reported by the chemist, but the albumen 
 and albumose may be thought of as albumen. 
 
 This table shows that the total solids in the milk varies 
 between 13 and 13 per cent, and the fat varies between 3.5 and 
 4.7 per cent. These are averages for the milk in the vat at the 
 factory. Individual cows or herds may produce milk varying 
 considerably from these averages. In the table the sugar, ash, 
 etc., are combined. Approximately speaking milk contains 5 per 
 cent of milk sugar and .7 per cent ash. 
 
 The following chart shows how the different constituents of 
 the milk are usually grouped with an approximate relation to 
 their use as food in the animal economy. Thousands of milk 
 analyses are on record, but these vary some with conditions of 
 location, etc., so that it would be difificult to give an absolutely 
 correct average, but the figures here given are within the range 
 of usual variation. 
 
 in 
 
 M.k 
 
 
 87' 
 
 Total 
 13% 
 
 Solids 
 r|ot 
 
 Ash .7°/} i- 
 CaselnZ.li 
 
 m 
 
 Use 
 Animal eccrxoyy^ 
 fWa+er of 
 
 (IB ones 
 
 em 
 
 umen 
 
 Trolei 
 
 Fciid.rA 
 
 
 Hoojs 
 Horns 
 
 [Heat 
 -s and 
 
 fat 
 
 3. MAN'S USE OP MILK. 
 
 Man has diverted milk from its normal purpose (the nour- 
 ishment of the calf) and uses it for a number of food products 
 for himself. The cow normally gives enough milk in quantity 
 and duration to nourish the calf until it can care for itself and 
 then dries up; but by artificial means the cow has been accus- 
 tomed to the habit of giving milk in larger quantities and for a 
 
The Constitution of Milk. 3 
 
 longer period, and the cow that has not acquired this habit satis- 
 factorily is not a financial success. Let us examine the several 
 components of the milk. 
 
 4. ALBUMINOIDS. 
 
 The albuminoids or protein contain the nitrogen of the milk 
 and may be divided into three parts ; namely, the casein, albumen, 
 and albumose. 
 
 5. CA'EIN. 
 
 The casein is the part of the milk that is curdled by rennet 
 or weak acids. Commonly speaking it is said to be dissolved in 
 the water of the milk, but this is not strictly true. If milk be 
 filtered through a porcelain filter it will leave a gelatinous mass 
 in the filter. This is the casein ; or, if skim milk be revolved for 
 a long time in a separator bowl, a layer of casein will be de- 
 posited on the walls of the bowl. Casein is dissolved in solutions 
 of borax, sodium phosphate, and alkalis. It is used commer- 
 cially as a sizing for paper. 
 
 6. ALBUMEN. 
 
 By referring to the preceding tables (2) it will be seen that 
 the casein does not constitute all of the protein of milk. When 
 milk has coagulated by rennet the casein is precipitated. If the 
 whey be heated to 180° F. another precipitate will be thrown 
 down. This is the albumen. It is much like the white of an egg 
 which is coagulated by heat. It is in solution until the heat 
 precipitates it. It probably accounts for part of the burnt taste 
 of boiled milk. Albumen cannot be incorporated in Cheddar 
 cheese without giving the conditions of sour cheese. 
 
 7. ALBUMOSE. 
 
 The albumose is not coagulated by rennet heat. It is derived 
 from the albumen. 
 
 8. ASH. 
 
 The ash is the bone-forming part of the milk and consists 
 largely of phosphates of calcium and potash, and there are some 
 chlorides. Although the ash is in small proportions in the milk 
 it is of great importance in cheese making. Part of the calcium 
 salts are supposed to be suspended as fine particles in the milk 
 or held in combination with the casein, but a part is certainly 
 held in solution and on this solubility of calcium salts depends 
 the property of coagulation by rennet. If ammonium oxalate be 
 added to milk in sufficient quantity, the soluble calcium salts will 
 
4 Cheese Making. 
 
 be changed to insoluble calcium oxalate, and the milk will not 
 curdle with rennet. Similar results can be obtained by heating 
 the milk to 180° F. When a soluble calcium salt is added, the 
 rennet will again act — in fact will operate faster as the soluble 
 calcium salt is increased. 
 
 9. MIL,K SUGAR. 
 
 The sugar of milk crystallizes in hard crystals, but is not as 
 sweet as the common cane sugar. At high temperature it 
 caramelizes, giving with the albumen to the milk, the peculiar 
 scalded taste. It is separated from milk by evaporating whey in 
 a vacuum pan. Commercial milk sugar is used in lactated foods 
 and medicines. 
 
 10. FAT. 
 
 The fat of the milk is a mixture of several fats, mainly of 
 stearic, palmitic and oleic acids, in combination with glycerine. 
 With these are a number of fats that are both volatile and soluble. 
 In this latter respect butter fat differs from the fats used in 
 oleomargarine. Filled cheese is made by introducing oleo oils 
 into milk in the place of the butter fat. 
 
 Jl. IN EMULSION. 
 
 The fat of milk is in emulsion — that is, it is distributed 
 through the milk serum in the form of very small globules, 
 which can be seen by the eye only by the aid of a powerful micro- 
 scope. They vary normally in size from 1-40,000 of an inch to 
 1-2000 of an inch in diameter. Being so very small they must 
 necessarily be very numerous. 
 
 Dr. Babcock estimates that in average milk there are 150,- 
 000,000 in a single drop. The average production of fat glob- 
 ules by the cows in the Cornell Experiment Station herd has 
 been estimated to be 38,210,000 per second. 
 
 13. CREAMING OP MII^K. 
 
 The fat globules being lighter than the surrounding serum 
 naturally rise, and crowding close together form a layer known 
 as the cream. In the manufacture of cheese it is necessary to 
 get an even distribution of the fat globules at the time of coagu- 
 lation by the rennet. 
 
 13. EFFECT OF PAT ON Q,UAr.ITY OP CHEESE. 
 
 Cheese from separator skim milk is hard and horny; and 
 though undoubtedly possessing food value, is too tough to be 
 eaten. 
 

 
G CiiiiKsi-: .\l.\Ki.\(;. 
 
 C"1h'(.'S(.- made rroin i)arl .skim milk lhiui<;ii ratlur dry, is 
 better than this, and the clieese from full cream milk mnre mellow 
 and aj^reeahle U> the taste. Cheese made fmni exeeptii inally 
 rich milk m" fr<im milk fortilied hy addition of cream is still 
 softer and more palatable. This diiiference in (juality is recos;- 
 nized on the market as can be seen by the quotations, full skims 
 ranging- from 1 to 4 cents in value, and full creams 't to 1.'! cents 
 per potmd. Cheese containing less than ."id per cent of fat in the 
 total solids has been made from skimmed milk. 
 
 14, I^KKF.r'l" C»K KAT 0\ QIAXTITV OK Cll KIOSK. 
 
 .About hve and a half to six ])ounds of cheese can be ob- 
 taineil from one hundred ])ounds of separator skim milk, the 
 amount obtainable ile])ending on the amount of casein in the 
 
 Tlie fat frlobules as seen tlirougli a niicrosccpe. 'tlie inntidii iiiclii(l(<l in the 
 circle is more liiglily mapnified. Tiie clottinR is due to ;in alluiniinous siili'-i.ince (the 
 fibrin according to Dr. JJaljcock) tliat collects amund the glohiiles mmiu after the niilk 
 is drawn from the udder. 
 
 cheese. Perha])s .").^ lbs. wDuld be the amount of cured cheese 
 obtainable fnjm such milk, liutter fat will carry about a tenth 
 of its weight of water with it into the cheese. A rough wav of 
 estimating the probable yield of cheese from a milk of a certain 
 test would be to multi]il\- the per cent of fat b\ 1.1, and add '^^ — 
 the result being the ])ouniIs of cheese obtainable. I"or instance, 
 from .". i)er cent milk there would be obtained ."VX 1 • 1 =•'•■"' plus 
 
The Constitution of Milk. 
 
 5.7 equal to 9 lbs,; and from 4 per cent milk, 4X1-1=4.4 plus 
 5.7 equal to 10.1 lbs. 
 
 A little more accurate method is as follows : Cheese on the 
 average contains 37 per cent of water and 63 per cent solids. By 
 dividing 100, the total per cent of solids and water, by 63, the per 
 cent of solids in the cheese, we obtain the factor 1.58. Of the 
 solids not fat, the casein and ash going into the cheese forms about 
 one-third. Some fat goes into the whey so that on the average 
 about 91 per cent goes into the cheese. Then the following 
 formula will give the pounds of cheese obtainable from a given 
 milk : 
 
 1.58 ( S°^d not Fat ^ ^j p^^) Example solids not Fat 8.92, fat 4 per cent. 
 
 8.92-^3=2.74 or K solids not fat. .91 of 4=3.64. 
 3.64+2.74=6.38 or the total solids X 1.58=10.08 pounds of cheese. 
 
 No rule can give absolutely correct results on account of 
 varying factors that will be explained la.ter. 
 
 The students of the Wisconsin Dairy School who work for 
 dairy certificates are required to report their work each month 
 on blanks furnished them. From 347 of these reports covering 
 40,900,890 pounds of milk made into 3,800,000 pounds of cheese. 
 Dr. Babcock prepared the following table : 
 
 TABLE SHOWING PER CENT OF 
 DIFFERENT 
 
 FAT IN CHEESE FROM MILKS OF 
 COMPOSITION. 
 
 Per cent Fat in 
 Milk. 
 
 Yield of Cheese 
 
 per 100 lb. 
 
 MUk. 
 
 Per cent Fat in 
 Cheese 
 
 Pounds of Cheese 
 
 for one pound 
 
 of Fat. 
 
 3.18 
 3 38 
 3 60 
 3 84 
 4.09 
 4.45 
 
 Average 3 . 75 
 
 9.19 
 9.24 
 9.41 
 9.81 
 10.30 
 10.71 
 
 29.7 
 32.3 
 34.0 
 35.1 
 35.8 
 37.8 
 
 34.1 
 
 2.94 
 2.73 
 2.61 
 2 56 
 2.51 
 2.41 
 
 2 63 
 
 It will be observed that the results with the rule given above 
 correspond very closely to the results in actual practice. It also 
 illustrates the difference in the quality of the cheese, for as the 
 fat in the milk increases, it also increases in the cheese, making 
 a mellower cheese which is more pleasing to the consumer. 
 
 The yield of cheese per pound of fat, however, decreases 
 with the increase of fat in the milk. If this were not so the 
 
8 Cheese Making. 
 
 cheese could not become richer in fat with the corresponding 
 improvement in quahty. 
 
 Dr. Babcock has given a most excellent demonstration in 
 the Eleventh Annual Report of the Wisconsin Experiment Sta- 
 tion, that from market quotations the true value of milk for 
 cheese is in proportion to its fat content. He says, in conclusion : 
 "It may be stated as a general rule that it never pays to skim off 
 part of the cream and make both butter and cheese, and further 
 that whenever the price of butter exceeds two and one-third 
 times the price of cheese it will pay better to make butter than 
 cheese, no account being taken of the value of skim milk and 
 whey. If the relative value of skim milk and whey be taken 
 into account butter should pay better than cheese whenever its 
 price exceeds two and one-quarter times the price of cheese. 
 Under other conditions cheese should pay better than butter." 
 
 As a compromise between the pooling system and the butter 
 fat method of paying dividends, Prof. H. H. Dean offers a sug- 
 gestion of adding 2 per cent to the test. Thus, if A's milk tested 
 3 per cent, add 2 and make it 5 per cent. If B's tested 4 per cent, 
 add 2 and make it 6, thus changing the ratio of 3 :4 to 5 :6. This 
 would make either patron's butter fat more valuable if water was 
 added to the milk. The method puts a premium on the poorest 
 quality of milk. 
 
 In Chapter XIII an illustration of the method of paying for 
 milk by fat test is given. 
 
 15. COLOSTRUM MIIiK. 
 
 The first milk given by a cow just after parturition is called 
 colosturm milk, and is much more viscous than normal milk, 
 sometimes being as thick as syrup, and usually of a high color. 
 The components of the milk are not in their normal proportions, 
 the albuminoids sometimes amounting to 15 per cent, and the 
 specific gravity may run as high as 1.085. Under the microscope, 
 cells which have scaled off from the inside of the udder can be 
 seen floating in the milk, and while these dead particles are pres- 
 ent the milk is unfit for cheese. After four or five milkings the 
 milk will appear normal, but it should not be used for a week. 
 
 16. CURD. 
 
 The curd, or green cheese, is the coagulated casein which 
 holds in its meshes most of the fat, some water, and small por- 
 
The Constitution of Milk. 
 
 tions of albumen, milk sugar and ash, plus salt that is added 
 artificially when finished. The water in green cheese is about 
 one-third of its weight. Green cheese and curd are synonymous, 
 for the cheese is simply the curd pressed together. 
 
 TABLE showing COMPOSITION OF GREEN CHEESE. 
 
 Per cent 
 Water. 
 
 Per ceut 
 SoUds. 
 
 Per cent 
 Solids - 
 not Fat. 
 
 Per cent 
 Fat. 
 
 Per cent 
 
 Casein, 
 
 Etc. 
 
 Per cent 
 
 Sugar, 
 
 Ash, Etc. 
 
 36.69 
 
 63.51 
 
 29.16 
 
 34.14 
 
 23.44 
 
 5.17 
 
 In the above table, which was compiled from the Geneva 
 Experiment Station Bulletin 82, the sugar, ash, etc., are grouped 
 together. Our own analyses showed the ash of cheese to vary 
 from 2.38 to 3.85 per cent, of which ash, 2.38 to 2.68 per cent, 
 was the natural ash of the milk, the remainder being salt that was 
 added artificially. Over 40 per cent water makes a poor cheese. 
 Home trade cheese contains 36 to 37 per cent and export 33 to 
 36 per cent. 
 
 17. WHEY. 
 
 In the manufacture of cheese, the milk is curdled by rennet, 
 and the curd cut into small pieces from which the liquid portion, 
 or whey, is expelled. It consists of the major part of the water 
 of the milk, which carries with it nearly all the soluble portions ; 
 namely, the albumen, milk sugar, ash, a.nd also a small portion 
 of fat, as the globules break away from the surface of the curd 
 when it is cut. 
 
 IS. COMPOSITION OF AVHEY. 
 
 The average of analyses of whey for an entire season in a. 
 New York State factory was as follows: Water 93.12 per cent, 
 total solids 6.88 per cent, fat .27 per cent, nitrogenous sub- 
 stances .81 per cent, ash sugar, etc., 5.80 per cent. 
 
 19. LOSSES OF FAT IN WHEY. 
 
 At the Minnesota Experiment Station in 1892 cheese Was 
 made from normal milks of different fat content. The following 
 table shows the losses of fat from these different milks : 
 
 TABLE SHOWING LOSSES OF FAT IN MILKS OF DIFFERENT FAT CONTENT. 
 
 Per cent fat in milk . 
 Per cent fat in whey 
 Number of trials . . . . 
 
 5 to 5.5 
 .32 
 4 
 
10 
 
 Cheese Making. 
 
 In another series of experiments where cream was added 
 to milk to make it test 6 per cent, the loss of fat in the whey was 
 no greater tha.n in the whey from normal milks like that to 
 which the cream was added. 
 
 . In all cases the richer milks made more cheese, which 
 would of course leave less whey from each 100 pounds of milk. 
 It is easily seen from this that the fat in rich milk can be worked 
 into the cheese more economically than the fat from poor milk. 
 Wha.t effect could this have in applying the second rule given 
 in paragraph 14? 
 
 20. WHEY FROM SWISS CHEESE. 
 
 As explained above (17) the fat that goes into the whey is 
 the fat globules that are knocked o& from the surface of the 
 curd particles. By using the kind of a knife used in Cheddar 
 cheese making, the fat loss can be reduced to .3 or .4 per cent 
 instead of .7 per cent when the old Swiss harp is used. 
 
 By careful operation many makers are reducing the fat test 
 of the whey to .2 per cent. 
 
 21. CONSTITUENTS RECOVERED IN CHEESE. 
 
 The different parts of the milk have been discussed, to- 
 gether with their relation to recovery or loss in cheese making. 
 
 The following table taken from Bulletin 82 of the Geneva 
 Station gives a very good idea of where the dififerent parts of 
 the milk go to : 
 
 TABLE GIVING GENERAL SUMMARY OF SEASON'S RESULTS RELATING TO 
 LOSS OF MILK-CONSTITUENTS IN CHEESE MAKING. 
 
 
 g 
 
 .=1 
 
 1! 
 
 
 J 
 
 
 
 ^°i 
 
 •S-sg 
 
 S.s 
 
 
 
 h 
 
 
 
 IJ 
 
 
 Solids in Milk 
 
 12.52 
 
 6.20 
 
 6.32 
 
 49.52 
 
 50.48 
 
 Fat in Milk 
 
 3.66 
 
 0.25 
 
 3.41 
 
 6.83 
 
 93.17 
 
 Nitrogen Compounds in Milk . . 
 
 3.07 
 
 0.73 
 
 2.34 
 
 23.78 
 
 76.22 
 
 In this table it will be seen that 93.17 per cent of the fat of 
 the milk went into the cheese and our rule places the figure of 
 91 per cent low. (17) 
 
The Constitution of M'Ilk. 11 
 
 questions on chapter i. 
 1. What are the food elements which enter into the compo- 
 sition of milk? 2. What is the average composition of milk? 
 3. What is meant by total solids? 4. Of what do the solids 
 not fat consist? 5. How do we distinguish the difference be- 
 tween casein, albumen, and albumose? 6. What importance is 
 attached to the soluble calcium salts? 7. How much milk 
 sugar in 100 pounds of milk? 8. How does milk sugar differ 
 from cane sugar? 9. What is the nature of butter fat? 10. 
 In what form is the fat found in milk? 11. What is the size of 
 the fat globules? 12. How many fat globules in a drop of 
 average milk? 13. What can be said about the distribution of 
 the globules at the time of adding the rennet? 14. What is the 
 effect of fat in the milk on the quality of the cheese? 15. What 
 is the effect of the fat content of milk on the quantity of cheese 
 obtained therefrom ? 16. How much cheese can be made from 
 one hundred pounds of separator skim milk? 17. How much 
 will one pound of fat increase the weight of cheese made from 
 the milk? 18. Give first rule for calculating approximately the 
 yield of cheese from milk of a given fat content. 19. Give sec- 
 ond rule for calculating yield of cheese when both fat and solids 
 not fat in the milk are known. 20. What does Dr. Babcock 
 say about the practice of making both cheese and butter from 
 the same milk? 21. What is colostrum milk, and how does it 
 differ from normal milk? 22. What is the chemical composi- 
 tion of green cheese? 23. What is the whey and what elements 
 of the milk does it contain? 24. How do the losses of fat in 
 rich and poor milk compare? 25. How may excessive losses 
 of fat in Swiss cheese making be avoided? 26. What propor- 
 tion of the various constituents of the milk go into the curd 
 and into the whey? 
 
Chapter II. 
 SECRETION AND CONTAMINATION OF MILK. 
 
 22. STRUCTURE OP THE UDDER. 
 
 The udder of the cow where the milk is secreted, consists 
 of two glands tied to each other along the median line, and to 
 the posterior part of the abdomen, by fibrous tissue. Each 
 quarter has two openings or teats. The teat is hollow, having 
 an opening at the lower end guarded by a sphincter muscle. 
 The chamber of the teat opens into another chamber in the 
 lower part of the udder just above the teat. From this cha.mber 
 ducts diverge, dividing and growing smaller. The twO' halves 
 separated by the fibrous band along the median line are entirely 
 separate. The ducts end in httle chambers about a thirtieth of 
 an inch in diameter. These chambers or ultimate follicles are 
 lined with cells. Arteries, blood vessels and nerves surround 
 them and the blood brought by the arteries is changed by the 
 cells into milk. 
 
 23. SECRETION OF THE MILK. 
 
 While some parts of the blood may be taken into the milk 
 without change, and white blood corpuscles have actually been 
 found in milk, the blood is for the most part changed by the 
 cells. The fat globules are produced in the cells and turned 
 loose into the ducts. 
 
 If samples of the fore milk and strippings be analyzed, the 
 solids not fat will be found to be the same. The strippings will, 
 however, be much the richer in fat. This is explained on the 
 ground — first, that the fat globules being lighter there is a nat- 
 ural creaming in the udder, and second, that the fat globules 
 being solids are retarded more by friction in their passage 
 through the ducts. 
 
 24. TIME OF SECRETION. 
 
 Some authorities believe that milk ^is secreted to a large 
 extent at the time of milking, for when a cow is excited or 
 
 12 
 
14 CiiiiKsi-: Making. 
 
 disturbed at that time, she may tail to produce as nuich milk of 
 the same (juality as usual. 
 
 On the other baud the louger the period betweeu milkings 
 the larger will be the ([uantity of milk given, and if the udder 
 is not emptied it will become very much distended, and from 
 these facts it is argued that milk productitju is a. contimious 
 process, though the rate of secretion may vary at different times. 
 
 25. CWl'aE OF II \ I) I'l, A \ OK^;. 
 
 There are three causes for bad tiavors in milk, namely: 
 l'"rom strong foods through the blood, by absorption from the 
 air, and i)v bacterial infection. 
 
 •^*i. FKO.M FOOD K.VTLOV. 
 
 Some strtnig lla\ored foofls like onions, turnips, cabbages, 
 rag weed, etc., put a like tlavor into the milk given by the cow. 
 The reailer may have observed that when very hungry and faint, 
 a little lunch will renew strength in a very few minutes. This 
 shows how quickly the food is taken into the blood. In like 
 manner when a cow eats strong tlavored foods the volatile 
 substances constituting the fla.vor are taken into the blood and 
 from the blood they go into the milk. Aerating milk (o:;) will in 
 a measure set these volatile substances free. If strc^ng Havored 
 food is given the cow just before milking the llavor will be sure 
 to be found in the milk. If fed just after milking the llavors 
 will proi)al)l\- i)as> out of the cow's swstem before the ne.xt 
 milking. 
 
 27. IM.WOUS l»V AH'OHI'TIO.V. 
 
 Milk. esijecialK- when warm, will absorb odors through the 
 meilium of tlu' surrouiuling air. It should therefore be kept 
 awa\ from the debasmg intluence of hog pens, barnyards, swill 
 barrels, and like oderiferous sources. It is very likely that the 
 lla\'ors of food may get into the milk in this way. 
 
 2s. it \< 'I'lOKiAi. i\ri:('i'io\. 
 
 I 'poll stamling. milk becomes soin*. The souring is caused 
 I)\- the growth oi" nn'nute organisms, connnouly calleil microbes 
 or bacteria, The\ are plants consisting of but a single cell and 
 so small thai tlu'y can l)e seen only by powerful microscopes. 
 The\- increase ver\ rapidly and b\- their growth proluce the 
 ch.anges observed in the uu'lk. .^oine forms change the milk 
 sugar into Lactic acid and the milk become-; sour, ollvr kin<ls 
 
SECRiniOX AND CoXTA.MlXATlOX OF 2^1 ILK. 15 
 
 produce a ropiness of the milk without souring it, and other 
 forms produce gas in the milk and when made into cheese the 
 curd becomes filled with gas holes. 
 
 aU. VAUIIOTIIO.'S OK IIVCTKIII A l\ >III.K. 
 
 1 he tollowing are some oi' the more conunon couilitions 
 produced in milk i)\ bacterial growlii : 
 
 .^(.nr milk; gassy milk; hitler milk: slimy milk: soapv 
 milk, whicii comes irom a t^crm found on straw in tlie stable, 
 producing a soapy taste and froiiiing of the nnlk : alcoholic 
 fermentation; red milk; i)lne milk (not skinnnedi; green milk, 
 etc. .\ bacillus known as coli connnunis which exists in the 
 col(Mi or large intestine, thriving in the warm conditions there 
 hnmd, finds its way from manure into the milk and causes a 
 large proportion of the gassy curds that our cheese makers 
 have to deal with. .\t the Cornell Kxperiment Station this germ 
 was found to exist in the udder for a long lime. It found its 
 way through the opening in the teal, got a lodgement, and was 
 there to grow and contaminate the milk unlil accidentally dis- 
 lodged and carried out with the milk. Rustv spots in cheese 
 are caused l)\ bacillus rudensis. 
 
 .{O. now >lll,lv I.S I.M'IO< TKO. 
 
 When the milk is drawn from thi- udder, i)acteria lloating 
 separately or clinging to particles of dusi in the air fall into ii. 
 Il will readily be seen that if the stable is closed tight and hav 
 has been l"ed just before milking, a great deal of bacleriadaden 
 dust will i)e stirred up to l"all into the milk. If the cow lies 
 down in the manure, or other lilth. ai milking time the dust from 
 this is stirred up and falls into the milk. Warm milk is a good 
 idace for the germs to grow, and they nudiiply ver\- rai)idl\. [f 
 the nnlk i^ cooled the growth of the bacteria is checked for the 
 time, but on wanning up the milk again the\ will grow and 
 nudtii)ly ra|)i<lly. 
 
 ::i. 'rill': \\is<on<i\ < i hd i-ios'i". 
 
 While associate.l in dairy work with Drs. P.abcock and 
 Kussell at the Wisconsin lvx|)erinu-nt ."Station we brought out 
 what is knnwn as the Wisconsin Curd Test for the detection of 
 injurious fermentatiMiis. The apparatus consists of pint, or 
 smaller jars, with perforated tops, which set in a fr.inie in a 
 water t;'.nk. Sami)les of the milk to be examined are taken in 
 
16 
 
 Ciii-iiisii Makim;. 
 
 the various jars, which arc then set in warm water in the water 
 tank and raised to a temperature of Do to 100' h". Ten drops 
 of rennet extract is added to each sample and wdien the niiUv 
 has curdK"(h the curd is I)roken ui) with a c-i.se knife. Care 
 should be taken not to transfer the germs from one sample to 
 another by the case knife or thermometer. As soon as the 
 whey separates, it is strained oft' through the strainer U)\). leav- 
 insf the curd behind in the jar. The curd is then under the 
 
 .\. Ini 
 
 .\l:inv 
 
 gas gc 
 
 The curds licic sliow n \\< 
 sample of Rood milk was di\ 
 a starter of a Coli cuniimiii 
 to C. 
 
 .\ lew gas ^'eriiis. 
 
 from curds developed in the Wisconsin Curd Test. A 
 d into three parts. .\ was set normally. To P. anil C^ 
 germ was added, the larger starter being added 
 
 a )i. 
 
 same conditions as a cur<l in the cheese val, and the various 
 kinds of bacteria will develop, giving their characteristic results. 
 ]f the result be gas it will show in the curd, or if it be a taint it 
 will be manifested. Common .\[ason fruit jars and a washtul) 
 can be used for this work, but the regula.r apparatus for the 
 purpose is much handier. 
 
 32. CAKK OV .MIMv. 
 
 Having explained the sources of bad flavors in milk, a few- 
 suggestions about the care of milk may be in order. It has 
 been seen that one cause of such flavors is the ivcd that the 
 cows UKiy get. If it is necessary to feed turnips or such foods, 
 they should not be fed to excess, and just after milking, in order 
 
MILK AERATORS. 
 
 17 
 
18 Cheese Making. 
 
 that the flavor may disappear from the cow's blood before the 
 next milking. 
 
 33. AERATION. 
 
 Milk should be aerated — that is, it should be exposed in 
 thin films or streams to the air, so that these volatile substances 
 may escape. As milk will absorb odors from the air, especially 
 when the milk is warm, great care should be taken to aerate the 
 milk in a place where the air is fresh and untainted. The barn 
 is obviously a poor place in which to do this. 
 
 34. VARIETIES OP AERATORS. 
 
 The common aerator is a large tin vessel with fine holes in 
 the bottom. It is held above the milk can by an iron frame. 
 The milk is strained into this, and while the milker is busy milk- 
 ing the next cow, the milk falls through the air in fine streams. 
 The star cooler and aerator is arranged so that the milk flows 
 in a thin film over a corrugated surface, and water flowing 
 through the apparatus cools the milk rapidly as it is being ex- 
 posed to the air. 
 
 35. THE BARN AIR. 
 
 The air in the barn should be kept as free as possible from 
 dust, for as previously explained the particles of dust are loaded 
 with bacteria. Danish farmers have a habit of airing out the 
 stables before milking, and hay or dry fodder is not fed until 
 after milking. 
 
 The stables should also be kept clean to prevent the milk 
 from being injured by foul odors. 
 
 36. KEEP COWS CLEAN. 
 
 The cows, if dirty, should be carded the same as a horse. 
 There is absolutely no excuse for having a cow's flanks. plastered 
 over with filth. As previously explained, such filth is an incu- 
 bator for the kinds of bacteria that spoil the milk. At milking 
 time the dust is stirred up and falls into the milk. Just before 
 milking, the cow's coat should be dampened with a rag or 
 sponge to lay the dust and thus prevent its falling. The habit 
 of wetting the teats, however, is a b.a.d one, for with the moisture 
 dirt runs down into the milk. 
 
 While a limited number of lactic acid-producing germs in 
 milk may not be detrimental, the germs that come from barn 
 filth are very injurious. 
 
Secretion and Contamination of Milk. 19 
 
 :j7. cooling the milk. 
 
 As soon as the milk has been aerated, it should be cooled 
 to 60° F. or less. At 40° F. there will be little, if any, change in 
 the milk, a.nd if it has to be kept a considerable length of time, 
 this temperature should be approximated as near as possible. 
 
 38. COVERING THE CANS. 
 
 After the milk has been properly aerated and cooled, it 
 should be covered to prevent evaporation from the cream that 
 forms on the top. This cream can be readily worked back into 
 the milk if it does not become leathery from evaporation. 
 
 39. KIND OF UTENSILS. 
 
 Wooden pails should not be used for milk for the reason 
 that milk will soak into the wood and ferment, ready to con- 
 taminate the next lot of milk. 
 
 The seams of pails, cans and dippers should be filled flush 
 with solder so that milk cannot collect and sour. 
 
 40. CARE OF UTENSILS. 
 
 All strainers, pails and other utensils in which the milk is 
 handled should be rinsed first with lukewarm water, and then 
 with boiling water, and if possible, exposed tO' a jet of steam to 
 thoroughly sterilize them. Many germs are killed by direct 
 sunHght, and the utensils should be set out in such a position 
 that the sun can shine into them. After scalding they should 
 not be wiped out with a dirty rag. 
 
 41. FACTORY CLEANLINESS. 
 
 No less important than the matter of cleanliness in the 
 barn and manner of milking, is the matter of cleanliness in the 
 factory. Milk may be spoiled in an untidy factory after its 
 delivery there. A few suggestions at this time regarding the 
 care of the factory will be pertinent. 
 
 Almost every cheese-maker will keep the inside of the 
 weigh-can and cheese vats clean, but the outside is often sorely 
 neglected. Milk may be spilled on the floor, and not properly 
 cleaned up. Water is slopped on the floor, and the maker 
 wades through it without drying it up ; when the whey is drawn 
 from the vat, it often goes on the floor, and in order to keep his 
 feet dry, he wears rubber boots. 
 
20 Cheese Making. 
 
 43. RUBBER BOOTS 
 
 The rubber boots are an injury to his health and the slop 
 unnecessary, to say nothing about the wear on the floor and its 
 nasty appearance. One would think a woman who kept her 
 kitchen floor in such condition, a very untidy housewife, and 
 there is no reason why a fa.ctory floor should be slopped over 
 any more than a kitchen floor. If any water accidentally gets 
 onto the floor, it should be mopped up at once. Rotten floors 
 which have to be renewed often, and rheumatism and ill health 
 for the operator, is the price paid for the doubtful privilege of 
 making a mill pond of the make-room floor. The old saying 
 that "a. penny earned is a penny saved" applies in a modified 
 form to work in a fa.ctory, viz.: Care in preventing dirt will 
 save the labor of cleaning it up. 
 
 43. SCRUBBING THE FLOOR. 
 
 At the close of the day's work, the floor can be scrubbed, 
 first with lukewarm, and then with hot water, and then dried off 
 with a rubber mop. Hot water will make the floor dry quickly, 
 
 Rubber Mnp. Floor Scrub. 
 
 but it should never be used where milk has been spilled, or 
 where milk or whey is on tinware, for hea.t will scald the 
 milk on. 
 
 44. SOAPS. 
 
 Powdered soap, such as "Gold Dust," is very effective in 
 taking out dirt, but it is too expensive a form in which to use 
 soap, as it dissolves readily and runs away. Salsoda is much 
 cheaper a,nd just as effective for a great many things, such as 
 cleaning the floor. A mixture of cheap soap and salsoda can 
 be dissolved in hot water and used hot for scrubbing, and then 
 afterward rinsed off with hot water. 
 
 Sapolio is a soap mixed with infusorial earth, which may 
 be used for scouring tinware. 
 
Secretion and Contamination of Milk. 21 
 
 45. scrubbing brushes. 
 
 Several g^ood stiff scrubbing brushes are needed for getting 
 into corners. Brushes are now made in a number of different 
 forms so as to apply to all conditions. There are round 
 brushes on long handles for getting into pipes and tubes, strong 
 brushes with sharp corners and round ends, and extra heavy 
 floor scrubs. All these things make the work easier. 
 
 46. TOWELS. 
 
 Clean towels and clean cloths for wiping the hands and 
 utensils, it would seem, are so evident a need that it may be 
 thought unnecessary to mention the fact, but the author's 
 experience in finding an absence of them in a large number of 
 factories compels mention to be made. 
 
 47. WATCH THE CORNERS. 
 
 In scrubbing the floor, the mop board should not be forgot- 
 ten, nor the doors and other wood work. If the rnaker is care- 
 ful in scrubbing the floor every day, a general scrubbing once a 
 week will keep things looking bright. 
 
 4S. SHELVES FOR TRINKETS. 
 
 The windows should be kept as clean as those in a dwelling 
 house, nor should tools and little trinkets be laid on the window- 
 sills. There should be shelves for all such things. 
 
 The curing room should likewise be kept in order. It 
 should not be a dumping place for all sorts of material, which 
 properly goes into the store room above. 
 
 49. HOW TO KILL MOULDS. 
 
 If at the beginning of the season, the walls are sprinkled 
 with water, and the room closed tight while two or three 
 pounds of sulphur is burned in it, moulds will be killed. 
 
 60. ANTISEPTICS. 
 
 A still better way is to wash the walls with limewater. 
 Limewater is a disinfectant, and should be used wherever it can 
 be applied. Commercial sulphate of iron, or copperas or green 
 vitriol, a.s it is commonly called, is also a disinfectant, and 
 should be put into drains and places that are likely to smell bad. 
 
 51. TO PREVENT DUST. 
 
 The boiler room must not be neglected. If coal is used, 
 coal dust can be prevented by sprinkling the coal with water. 
 
?2 Cheese Making. 
 
 The floor should be kept cleanly swept, and should be mopped 
 twice a week, or as oiten as needed. Tools should have their 
 regular places and be kept there. 
 
 The reader may think it a waste of space to talk about all 
 these little matters, but experience has taught the writer that 
 they are the foundation of the business of cheese-making; and 
 makers often fail, because they do not recognize the fact. 
 
 It is much easier to keep a clean factory than a. dirty one, 
 for the old saying that "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound 
 of cure" is true here, as well as in other cases. 
 
 53. FACTORY SURROUNDINGS. 
 
 Having got the inside of the factory clean, why not make 
 the outside of it to match? Plant some trees, and in painting 
 the factory, choose white or some light color, that will not 
 absorb but reflect, the heat. A little extra effort may be put 
 into graveling- the roadways, to prevent them being cut up in 
 wet wea.ther. Level off the ground for a little space, seed it 
 down, and cut the grass with a lawn-mower. If a dry spell 
 comes we have plenty of water in our well, and can sprinkle 
 the lawn with our steam pump. These things would take but 
 little extra effort, and all will agree, that the result would fully 
 repay the effort. 
 
 Why should it not be the rule that a cheese factory is to be 
 kept not only clean, but attractive as well? 
 
 QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER IT. 
 
 1. Describe the structure of the udder. 2. What can be 
 said about the secretion of the milk in the udder? 3. How do 
 samples of the fore milk and strippings compare as to fat con- 
 tent? 4. How is the greater fat content of the strippings ex- 
 plained? 5. At what time is the milk secreted? 6. What are 
 the three sources of bad flavors in milk? 7. How does the 
 flavor of food get into the milk? 8. Will warm milk absorb 
 odors? 9. What are microbes or bacteria? 10. What can be 
 said about the effect of different germs on milk? 11. What can be 
 said about the bacillus known as coli communis? 12. How 
 is milk infected? 13. What is the Wisconsin Curd Test and 
 how is it used? 14. What is the value of the aeration of milk? 
 15. Describe some of the common aerators. 16. Wha.t can be 
 said of the barn air at milking time? 17. Why should the cows 
 
Secretion and Contamination of Milk. 23 
 
 be kept clean? 18. Why should a cow's coat be dampened just 
 before milking? 19. Why should milk be cooled after aerat- 
 ing? 20. Why should the milk cans be covered over night? 
 21. Why should wooden milking pails not be used? 22. How 
 should utensils be washed? 23. What is the efifect of wet floors 
 and rubber boots on a maker's health ? 24. How should the 
 fioor be scrubbed? 25. Why is a clean towel needed in a fac- 
 tory ? 
 
Chapter III. 
 MILK TESTING. 
 
 53. RAPID PROGRBSS. 
 
 When one stops to- think that only fifteen years ago, or even 
 less, the only means that a cheese-maker had of determining 
 the quality of milk was the crude test tube, where the milk was 
 set for the cream to rise, and a lactometer that would read 
 good milk when both skimmed and watered, he begins to 
 realize what great progress has been made in milk testing in so 
 short a time. This great change has been brought about by 
 work done at the Agricultural Experiment Stations, and this 
 one hne of progress is paying large dividends on all the money 
 that h,a,s been invested in them. 
 
 As indicated in Chapter I (14) the value of milk for cheese 
 making is dependent on its fat content. "New coins are 
 handled with suspicion," and when the new method of paying 
 for milk according to test came to be advocated, tarmers and 
 dairymen were slow to adopt it until they understood it. At 
 the present time, probably 70 per cent of the Cheddar cheese 
 factories in Wisconsin are paying for milk in this way. 
 
 54. THE BABCOCK TEST. 
 
 The Babcock test w.as invented by Dr. S. M. Babcock of 
 the Wisconsin Agricultural Experiment Station, and published 
 in Bulletin No. 24, July, 1890, and is now not only in general 
 use in this country, but is also used in the different countries of 
 Europe, and India, New Zealand and Australia. It has literally 
 "gone round the world." 
 
 It consists of four parts : 
 
 55. THE BOTTLE. 
 
 A bottle holding about two ounces and having a long, 
 narrow neck, about the size of a lead pencil. On this neck is a 
 scale covering a volume of two cubic centimeters marked off 
 into fifty divisions. Every live divisions marks one per cent 
 and each division is therefore two-tenths of one per cent. 
 
 24 
 
'S — 7 
 
 fUcff. 
 
 )t5cfi 
 
 \/ 
 
 I 
 
 Milk Bottle. Pipette. Acid Measure. 
 
 Babcock Test Glassware. 
 
 25 
 
36 Cheese Making. 
 
 56. the pipette. 
 
 The pipette is a glass tube with a bulb in the middle for 
 measuring the milk. There is a mark on the upper narrow- 
 stem indicating 17.6 c. c. which volume of average milk would 
 weigh eighteen grams. 
 
 57. THE ACID MEASURE. 
 
 This is a glass cylinder with a 17.5 c. c. mark on it for meas- 
 uring the sulphuric acid used in making the test. 
 
 58. THE CENTRIFUGE. 
 
 This is a machine for whorling the bottles. It consists of a 
 drum about twenty inches in diameter with sockets on the 
 circumference for holding the bottles. The drum is encased 
 in a jacket and is driven by a crank or pulley and gear, or by a 
 steam motor. 
 
 59. TO MAKE THE TEST. 
 
 The milk to be tested must be thoroughly stirred to get the 
 fat gloubles evenly distributed. This can be done by pouring 
 from one vessel to another several times. If in the composite 
 test the cream is somewhat hardened, it can be dissolved by 
 warming the milk a little, but this must be done with care as 
 the milk will then churn easily. After the milk is thoroughly 
 mixed draw it up into the pipette by suction with the mouth, 
 and then quickly place the finger over the upper end of it. By 
 letting air in slowly under the finger the milk will run out till it 
 comes down to the 17.6 c. c. mark. Then deliver the contents 
 into the bottle. Next measure 17.5 c. c. sulphuric a.cid into the 
 bottle, and by a circular motion mix the acid and milk thor- 
 oughly till the milk is all dissolved, that is, till no clots are left. 
 
 Then put the bottle in the centrifuge and whorl five min- 
 utes. At the end of this time the fat will all be on the top of the 
 liquid. Hot water is filled in to bring the fat up into the neck 
 where the amount can be read on the scale. It is whorled an- 
 other minute to bring the fat all into the neck in a solid mass. 
 It must be read before it gets cold or in a perfectly liquid condi- 
 tion. The bulletin describing the test says 140° F. Better 
 results may be obtained by first filling to the neck and whorHng, 
 and then filling into the neck for the final whorling. 
 
 Several points of caution should be observed to get uni- 
 formly clear readings and reliable tests. 
 
Hand power Centrifuge, covered 
 
 Hand power Centrifuge, uncovered, 
 
 showing position of bottles 
 
 in pockets. 
 
 Troemiier's Balance, for testing 
 cheese. 
 
 Steam Turbine Test, with steam 
 
 gauge and hot water 
 
 attachment. 
 
 27 
 
28 Cheese Making. 
 
 60. strength of acid. 
 
 First the acid should be commercial sulphuric acid of a 
 specific gravity of 1.82 to 1.83. If too strong the fat will be 
 charred and there will be black specks in the fat. If too weak, 
 there will be either white curdy matter with the fat or a clear 
 test and not all of the fat. Dairy supply houses now furnish a 
 hydrometer for testing the specific gravity of the acid. If it is 
 1.81 it is too weak, and if over 1.83 too strong. If the acid is 
 not too much too strong or too weak the difficulty can be 
 obviated by using a little more or less as the case may require. 
 One should observe the color of the fat. It ought to be a deep 
 straw or yellow color. If white or light colored the acid is 
 weak, if black it is too strong. As a general thing there is 
 little difficulty in getting good acid. 
 
 Dr. Babcock has invented an automatic acid measure which 
 will fill the bottles with the right amount directly from the acid 
 bottle as fast as the bottles can be shaken. They should be 
 shaken one at a time and not in a tray or in the machine, 
 together, as in that case the milk in some bottles is not thor- 
 oughly dissolved. 
 
 The acid should go to the bottom of the bottle without 
 mixing with the milk til) the final shaking. If it mixes par- 
 tially and then is allowed to stand, part of milk will get the 
 effect of the acid too strongly, will be charred, and appear in the 
 fat as black specks. 
 
 61. SPEED OF THE CENTRIFUGE. 
 
 The speed of the ordinary tester, which is about eighteen 
 inches in diameter, should be about one thousand revolutions 
 per minute. The fat is forced to the top of the liquid by the 
 centrifugal pressure, and unless this pressure is sufficient all 
 the fat will not be separated. If the speed is too great the 
 bottles will fly to pieces. Dr. Babcock does not recommend a 
 steam turbine test unless there is a speed indicator attached. 
 A good many of these machines are supplied with steam gauges, 
 but a steam gauge only indicates the pressure applied to the 
 drum, and does not tell the speed. 
 
 62. READING THE FAT. 
 
 The column of fat should be read from the bottom line, 
 where it meets the water, to the highest point where it joins the 
 
Milk Testing. 29 
 
 glass. The upper surface is curved, and quite often the test is 
 read low by reading only to the lower part of the curve. It 
 should be read as high as the fat goes. The same thing .applies 
 when reading tests of whey. It is quite often read two-tenths 
 when four-tenths is the amount present. A pair of dividers will 
 aid greatly. Open them to the full length of the fat column, 
 then place the lower point on the zero line, and the upper point 
 will show the per cent present at a gla.nce. When reading with- 
 out dividers errors in subtraction may occur. 
 
 Skim milk test bottles with specially norrow necks may be 
 used. 
 
 C3. TESTING CHEESE. 
 
 Cheese may be tested by the Babcock lest for fat as well as 
 milk. In making a milk test we take 17. C c. c, or 18 grams. 
 Cheese contains about one-third fat, so tha.t we cannot take 18 
 grams; but if we balance the bottle on a small scale, such as 
 druggists use for prescriptions, and weigh in four or five grams 
 of cheese, there will be a convenient amount for the test. The 
 cheese can be cut into small strips which will drop down the 
 neck of the bottle. Then add fifteen cubic centimeters of boil- 
 ing water and a few drops of ammonia, and shake till the cheese 
 is dissolved into a creamy consistency. When the bottle is 
 cold add acid, and test as though it were milk. The reading of 
 the fat IS then multipHed by ^^ , a being the weight of the 
 cheese taken. The quotient will be the per cent of f,a.t in the 
 cheese. If we weighed out five grams of cheese, and the read- 
 ing of the fat is 7.1, we have (7.1 X 18) -^ 5, or 25.5% fat in the 
 cheese. 
 
 A little balance with weights and a bar, reading to one- 
 tenth of a gram, known as Troemner's balance, is sold by 
 chemical supply houses for about eight dollars. 
 
 64. aUEVENNE LACTOMETER. 
 
 As has been stated, the Quevenne Lactometer reads spe- 
 cific gravities directly. On the scale are a set of figures reading 
 from 15 down to 40. These figures mean thousandths, that is, 
 30 means 1.030 specific gravity. If we have a barrel that will 
 hold 1,000 lbs. of water at 60° F., and fill it with milk that reads 
 30 on our lactometer, we would have 1,030 lt)s. of milk in the 
 barrel. Now, if the milk is heated up above 60°, one-tenth of 
 a pound will flow over the top for each degree above 60° F., an*l 
 
30 Cheese Making. 
 
 likewise for every degree the milk is lowered, a tenth of a pound 
 more can be put into the barrel. Sixty has been taken as an 
 arbitrary standard of temperature for specific gravity of milk, 
 and we must temper the milk near to that point. If it varies a 
 few degrees, the reading can be corrected by adding or sub- 
 tracting one-tenth to the reading of the lactometer for every 
 degree of variation in temperature. Thus : if the lactometer 
 reading is 32, and the temperature 65°, add .5 to 32, which 
 would make the corrected reading for 60° 32.5. The best lac- 
 tometers have a thermometer connected, and it is not advisable 
 to use any other. 
 
 65. BOARD OF HEALTH LACTOMETER. 
 
 The Board of Health Lactometer has an arbitrary scale 
 reading from to 120; 100 is a specific gravity of 1.029, which 
 corresponds to 29 on the Quevenne scale. This is the lowest 
 specific gravity known for pure milk, the average being about 
 1.032 sp. g. This scale can be converted into the Quevenne 
 scale by multiplying the reading by -.29. By so doing one can 
 use the Board of Health instrument if a Quevenne is not avail- 
 able. 
 
 66. DETECTING WATERED MILK. 
 
 The solids other than fat make the milk denser and raise 
 the l,a.ctometer, while the fat makes it lighter and lowers the 
 instrument. Each per cent of fat lowers it seven-tenths of a 
 degree. If we multiply the per cent of fat found by the Bab- 
 cock test and add the product to the lactometer reading it will 
 give the reading of the milk if the fat were not present. This is 
 the way to eliminate the eflfect of the fat. If the specific gravity 
 of the other solids is divided by 3.8, the result will be per cent 
 of solids not fat. 
 
 For instance, the lactometer reading is 31.5, the tempera- 
 ture 65°, and the fat 4 per cent, what is the per cent of solids not 
 fat? 
 
 31.5 4- .5 = 32 + (4 X .7 = 2.8) = 34.8 ^ 3.8 = 9.10% 
 solids not fat. 
 
 If the solids not fat run below 8.5 per cent fat it is ver} 
 poor milk and may be watered. 
 
Milk Testing. 
 
 31 
 
 If 8.5 per cent solids not fat be taken as a basis for pure 
 milk, and we find but 7.00 per cent, the way to get the amount 
 of water added is readily found by proportion : 
 7.0 :8.5 : \x : 100 
 8.5a- = 700 
 ;ir=:.832+ 
 From which 82.3+% is the milk found to be present in the 
 sample or 17.7 per cent water has been added. 
 
 When patrons are paid by the fat- test it does not pay to go 
 to the trouble of hauling water to the factory. 
 
 In paying for milk by test, composite samples are tested as 
 follows : 
 
 67. COMPOSITE SAMPLES. 
 
 The samples should be saved from each patron's milk every 
 morning by stirring up the milk in the weigh can with a dipper. 
 An ounce cup is then filled with the milk, and turned into the 
 sample jar. 
 
 68. MILK THIEF. 
 
 A still better way is to take the sample with a milk thief, 
 which is a long tube three-fourths of an inch in diameter, with 
 a valve in the bottom. By lowering this into the 
 weigh can a sample of the milk all the way down 
 runs in at the bottom and the valve is closed by 
 striking the bottom of the can. The tube is then 
 drawn out and emptied through the upper end into 
 the sample jar. 
 
 G9. SAMPLE JARS SHOULD BE MARKED TO PRE- 
 VENT MISTAKES. 
 
 Each jar has the number of the patron marked 
 on it with asphalt paint, or in some other substan- 
 tial way. 
 
 70. MILK SAMPLES, HOW PRESERVED. 
 
 A small quantity of potassium bichromate, 
 enough to color a jar of milk a bright yellow, is 
 put into the jar, before any milk is put into it, and 
 this chemical will preserve the milk for a week or 
 , ^ more, 
 ^^"'s Milk Thief Corrosivc sublima.te tablets sold by dealers in 
 
 used at World s , ■' 
 
 Fair. dairy supplies may possibly give more satisfac- 
 
 tory results, but are very poisonous and must be handled with care. 
 
32 
 
 Cheese Making. 
 
 At the end of a week the composite sample of each patron's 
 milk is tested, and the reading of the Babcock test is the per- 
 centage of fat in the whole of the week's milk. 
 
 For method of making dividends according to test, see 
 Chapter XIII. 
 
 Weigh Can. 
 QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER III. 
 
 1.. When and by whom was the Babcock milk test invented? 
 2. Describe the test bottle. 3. What is the volume included in 
 the scale of the milk bottle and how is it divided? 4. What 
 is the volume of the pipette and what weight of milk will it hold ? 
 5. What is the volume of the acid measure? 6. What, is the 
 diameter of the centrifuge drum? 7. How is a test made? 
 8. What kind and how strong is the acid used? 9. At what 
 speed should the centrifuge be run? 10. Describe how the fat 
 reading should be done. 11. How can cheese be tested with 
 the Babcock test? 12. Describe the Quevenne lactometer. 
 13. Describe the Board of Health lactometer and state its rela- 
 tion to the Quevenne. 14. How much does each per cent of fat 
 lower the lactometer reading? 15. Give method and rule for 
 detecting watered milk? 16. What is a composite sample? 
 17. Describe the Scovell milk-sampling tube. 18. How can 
 composite samples be preserved? 
 
Chapter IV. 
 ENZYMES 
 
 71. TWO KIA'DS OF FERMENTS. 
 
 As has been previously described, bacteria are the cause of 
 the breaking up of organic compounds into still other com- 
 pounds; as for example, milk sugar into lactic acid, or into 
 alcohol and gas. Such changes or fermentations are termed 
 organized ferments because they .axe the result of the growth of 
 organisms. 
 
 There is another class of changes which take place as a 
 result, not of bacterial growth, but of the action of a chemical 
 substance known in contradistinction to the organized ferments, 
 as unorganized ferments or enzymes. Such for instance is a 
 substance found in the saliva known as ptyalin, which has the 
 property of changing starch to sugar. In the stomach is found 
 pepsin which has the property of changing solid proteids to 
 soluble peptones, and in the pancreatic juices is found trypsin, 
 another enzyme with properties similar to pepsin. These 
 enzymes are secreted by the protoplasm of cells which make up 
 the particular glands where these enzymes are usually found. 
 Bacteria ha.ve this property of secreting enzymes, and as our 
 knowledge of fermentations increases it may be found that the 
 changes we now suppose to be due to the direct action of the 
 living protoplasm in the cells of plants and animals, are really 
 due to enzymes secreted by the protoplasm. Enzymes have 
 some characteristics in common in the way they behave under 
 changes of temperature. They are most active in the neigh- 
 borhood of blood heat (100° F.) and cease to act at low tem- 
 peratures, while at high temperatures (150° to 200°) they are 
 destroyed. The enzymes do not seem to be used up in their 
 action, but will work over and over again. 
 
 72. GALACTASE. 
 
 Babcock and Russell have recently discovered the presence 
 of an enzyme in milk to which they have given the name galac- 
 
 33 
 
34 Cheese Making. 
 
 tase. When milk was rendered sterile by chloroform, upon 
 standing- it would curdle as though it contained rennet, and then 
 the casein was digested, that is, it was changed to soluble pep- 
 tones. Gala.ctase is killed at a temperature of 180° F. Its 
 optimum temperature is about 100° F. They have proved that 
 it is at least the major cause of the breaking down of the casein 
 in cheese and its change into soluble peptones ; that is, it is the 
 main cause of the ripening of the cheese. 
 
 73. RENNET EXTRACT AND PEPSIN. 
 
 Since very early times an extract from the calf's stomach 
 has been used to curdle milk in the manufacture of cheese. 
 Such an extract is supposed to contain two enzymes, one rennin, 
 or the lab of Hammersten, having the property of coagulating 
 the milk, and the other, pepsin, which afterward digests the curd. 
 
 The city of Copenhagen, Denmark, produces large quanti- 
 ties of rennet. It is said that 5,000,000 rennets are annually 
 consumed in that city. Prof. Alfred Vivian and Mr. Burt B. 
 Herrick, instructors in the Ohio Dairy School, have used scale 
 pepsin in cheese making. Scale pepsin is made by Armour & 
 Co. of Chicago from stomachs of sheep. It both curdles and 
 digests milk and so raises the question whether the curdling 
 and digesting are not really after all two properties of one fer- 
 ment. Scale pepsin solutions do not curdle very sweet milk as 
 readily as the rennet extracts. Experimentation will probably 
 reveal the cause. In milk containing 2 per cent acid no dififer- 
 ence can be observed. In such milk five grams or 75 grains of 
 the scale pepsin is equal to four ounces of Hansen's rennet 
 extract. Pepsin makes cheese of excellent flavor and texture. 
 Enough cheese has been made to establish its value. At the 
 time of the revision of this book experiment stations are at work 
 with it. 
 
 74. RENNET— HOW PRESERVED. 
 
 The commercial rennet is a calf's stomach which was taken 
 from the calf at the time it was slaughtered, and cleaned, and 
 dried. 
 
 The best rennets come from Bavaria. Cheese makers used 
 to buy the rennets and make their own extracts- as needed, and 
 the majority of Swiss cheese makers do so now, but extracts, 
 powders and tablets are now manufactured on an extensive 
 
Enzymes 35 
 
 scale, and are much more uniform and reliable than the old 
 homemade extracts, as each new lot of the latter must neces- 
 sarily be different in strength from the last. 
 
 The prepara.tion of rennet powder is too complicated a 
 process for a cheese maker to follow, but one can make his own 
 extract for the season, if he wishes, as follows: 
 
 75. HOW RENNET EXTRACT IS MADE. 
 
 Prepare a sufficient number of rennets, say five hundred, 
 by splitting them open so that the water can get into them. 
 Then take an oak barrel and put the rennets into it, and fill with 
 water until they are well covered. 
 
 Possibly the barrel might be nearly filled with water, but 
 one should not have more water than is necessary to dissolve 
 the ferment. 
 
 A little salt should be added to the water, say three pounds 
 of salt to one bundled pounds of water. The rennets should 
 be stirred up and pounded every day, to facilitate the solution 
 of the ferm'ent, and at the end of a week the liquid should be 
 drawn off and the rennets wrung out with a clothes-wringer. 
 They should be put into water again and soaked for another 
 week, and the same operation gone through with. As a. usual 
 thing, the ferment has not all been extracted from the stomachs 
 till they have been soaked for four weeks. The liquid that has 
 been obtained by soaking the rennets should be filtered through 
 clean straw, charcoal and sand, and then an excess of salt added 
 to preserve it. 
 
 The extract should be clear though of a dark color. The 
 first sign of the decomposition of rennet extract is a muddy 
 appearance. 
 
 If extract is ever prepared by the cheese-maker, enough to 
 last the whole season should be made in the spring when the 
 weather is cool, and then it should be kept in a cool place. 
 
 76. RELIABLE BRANDS TO BE PREFERRED. 
 
 The surest way of getting extract that can be depended on, 
 is to buy some reliable brand. 
 
 The practice of preparing extract every few days is wrong, 
 as the strength of each new lot will not be like the last, and if 
 used in about the same quantities the cheese will not cure 
 evenly. The use of whey as a solvent for the rennet is wrong 
 
36 Cheese Making. 
 
 for reasons that are obvious after considering the subject of 
 organized ferments. 
 
 A comparison of extracts and their relative value will be 
 taken up after the rennet test has been explained. 
 
 We will now enter upon a study of the properties of rennin, 
 the curdling- ferment of milk. 
 
 77. EFFECT OP HEAT ON RENNET. 
 
 Rennet will not curdle milk at a very low temperature, but 
 as the temperature is raised it will begin to work and act with 
 increasing rapidity until at a point above 100° F. it is injured. 
 By putting cold rennet into warm milk it may work faster up 
 to 120° or 130° F., but when the rennet in weak solutions is 
 heated to 105° F. it begins to be injured. A strong solution 
 may be held at 150° for fifteen minutes without being entirely 
 destroyed, but it will be rendered much weaker. These high 
 temperatures do not destroy the power of the rennet insta.ntly 
 but gradually. 
 
 7S. RENNET DOES NOT EXHAUST ITSELF. 
 
 As has been said concerning enzymes, rennet does not seem 
 to spend its energy, but will act over and over again. If a 
 quantity of milk is coagulated and the whey applied to a like 
 quantity of milk, the milk will be coagulated ; this could be done 
 indefinitely, if it were not for getting a larger volume of whey 
 than we have of milk. 
 
 79. EFFECT OF ACIDITY ON THE ACTION OF RENNET. 
 
 It has been said that the rapidity in the action of rennet is 
 greatly afifected by the temperature of the milk, but we will find, 
 if the temperature of the milk is held constant, the more lactic 
 acid there is in the milk the faster the rennet will act, or if any 
 acid be artificially added to the milk in quantities not sufficient 
 to coagulate it, the action of the rennet will be hastened, and 
 on the other hand if alkali be added to the milk, the action of 
 the rennet will be retarded. 
 
 80. RENNET EXTRACTS NOT ALIKE. 
 
 Another cause for varying rapidity of action is the differ- 
 ence in the strength of the rennet extract used. Rennets vary 
 as to the amount of ferment contained in them, and it is very 
 unlikely that two lots of extracts will be exactly alike. 
 
Enzymes. 
 
 37 
 
 81. RENNET ACTION DEPENDENT ON THREE THINGS. 
 
 It has been shown that the rapidity with which rennet 
 coagulates milk is dependent on: 
 
 1. The strength of the rennet extract. 
 
 2. The temperature of the milk. 
 
 3. The acidity of the milk. 
 
 Now if the same rennet is used at the same temperature of 
 the milk each time, the variation in the rapidity with which it 
 coagulates the milk, must be due solely to the acidity or ripeness 
 of the milk. 
 
 82. J. B, HARRIS DISCOVERS THE RENNET TEST. 
 
 About ten years ago J. B. Harris conceived this idea, and 
 used a tea.cupful of milk from the vat, tO' which he added a tea- 
 spoonful of rennet and noted the number of seconds required 
 to coagulate the m.ilk. When the milk was ripened down to a 
 certain number of seconds, he found that he could foretell 
 approximately the time that it would take for acid to develop. 
 
 _, ' cz. 
 
 Glass Graduates. 
 
 83. RENNET A POWERFUL, AGENT. 
 
 But if one stops a moment to figure on it, he will see that 
 rennet is a very powerful agent. If one uses four ounces of 
 extract to one thousand pounds of milk, it is one part of rennet 
 
38 Cheese Making. 
 
 to four thousand of milk, and sometimes the proportion will 
 be as wide as one to sixteen thousand. It will be easily seen 
 that since the rennet is such a powerful agent, it is not Hkely 
 to be an entirely accurate test where a teaspoon is used for 
 measuring the rennet, for then it would be difficult to measure 
 exactly twice alike. Therefore, in place of the teaspoon, a 
 minim or dram graduate was substituted, and for the teacup 
 an eight- ounce glass graduate such as druggists use. This was 
 much better than the other crude apparatus for making the test. 
 
 84. GLASS GRADUATES FOR MEASURING. 
 
 But the minim graduate is funnel shaped, and the top being 
 broad in proportion to its volume, the chances for error are still 
 too great in measuring. Tn actual practice through haste in 
 making the test, two or three drops of extract were likely to be 
 left in the narrow bottom of the minim graduate, and the maker 
 would be confused in not getting the results he expected by 
 depending on it. 
 
 J. H. Monrad then proposed a new set of apparatus, which, 
 though not so simple, leaves less chance for error. 
 
 85. THE MONRAD RENNET TEST. 
 
 The apparatus for the Monrad test consists of a 160 c. c. tin 
 cyHnder for measuring the milk, a 5 c.c. pipette, a. 50 c. c. glass 
 flask, and a half pint tin basin. By filling the tin cyhnder full it 
 always gives the right measure of milk quickly. Measuring the 
 milk in a glass graduate is difficult, as it is hard to get the milk 
 just to the mark, and if the glass is covered with white milk it is 
 difficult to see the mark. 
 
 The rennet is first measured with the 5 c. c. pipette. A 
 pipette (as will be seen by reference to the illustration) is a 
 glass tube with a mark on it indicating the volume of 5 c. c, 
 and the rennet can very easily be measured to the mark, and the 
 tube being narrow makes the measurement accurate. The ren- 
 net in the pipette is delivered into the 50 c. c. flask, and what 
 little rennet adheres to the inside of the pipette is rinsed into 
 the flask. This is then filled with water to the 50 c. c. mark on 
 the neck, and the solution mixed by shaking. The milk, the 
 temperature of which should be 86° F., measured in the tin 
 cylinder, is emptied into the half pint basin, and 5 c. c. of the 
 dilute extract is measured into the 160 c. c. of milk, and the 
 
ExZVMliS. 
 
 39 
 
 number of seconds require.l b. cnr.lle it noiol. ll a lew specks 
 of charcoal are scattered ..n die milk and the nnlk started mto 
 „i,,li..n around the .lish with a thermometer, the instant of 
 curdling can Ix- n..trd l.y the stopping of the specks. TlK-y will 
 stop so su.ldenly as to seem to start back in the opposite dn-ec- 
 
 Monrad Rennet Test. 
 
 .s({. rsE TiiERMO^ir/rKu TO srilt mii.k. 
 
 Hv using a thermometer, the temi)er; 
 stamly watched; and it the tenn>erature 
 quickly be In'oughl back to SC, \- . by seltin-. 
 of warm water for fi\e seconds. 
 
 .ST. Tin: M AI«S« II \I,I, ur.WKT TIOST. 
 
 .\nother mgenious form of rennet te>t 
 great manv factories is the Marscliail test, 
 time. It consists of an ounce bottle with a 
 cate '20 c. c; and a spatula for stirring the ir 
 is used for measuring rennet into the bottle i 
 up to the mark r.n the bottle: a tes^ basin, w 
 little over a pint capacity, on the inner su 
 
 lur 
 
 • I. 
 
 an 
 
 be 
 
 con- 
 
 hoi 
 
 1.1 
 
 fall 
 
 u 
 
 can 
 
 llK 
 
 b; 
 
 isin 
 
 in ; 
 
 I j)ail 
 
 wliich 
 
 is nsi 
 
 'd 
 
 m a 
 
 as it k 
 
 eeps i 
 
 is 
 
 own 
 
 mark 
 
 m it t 
 
 <» 
 
 indi- 
 
 lilk : a 
 
 1 C.C. 
 
 pi 
 
 pette 
 
 n whic 
 
 h it is 
 
 .li 
 
 luted 
 
 hich i.s 
 
 a ves 
 
 
 of a 
 
 rface . 
 
 )f whi 
 
 ch 
 
 IS a 
 
40 
 
 Cheese Making. 
 
 scale beginning with at the top and numbering by hah' divi- 
 sions to 7 near the bottom of the vessel. A hole in the bottom 
 of the vessel is fitted with a cork in which is inserted a glass 
 tube of very fine bore. 
 
 SS. HOW TO U.SE THE TEST. 
 
 To make a test the vessel is filled with milk at the desired 
 temperature, and when the milk lias drained through the little 
 glass tube until the top is at the mark, the diluted rennet is 
 stirred in with the spatula. When the rennet thickens the 
 milk sufficiently no more milk will run out and the operator 
 
 A — firadiKitod Lup. 
 
 B— 1 c. c. Pipette. 
 
 C — Glass in which to dilute the rennet. 
 
 D— Spatula for stirring tlic milk. 
 
 notes the point on tlu' scale down t(-) which the milk has run. 
 The riper the milk the t|uicker will the milk thicken with a 
 corresponding less rcadiui;- on the .^cale. 
 
 SJK MAR.SCHAI-I. TE.STS XOT ALIKE. 
 
 Unfortunately the caliber of the glass tubes in the bottom 
 of these tests varies so that var\-ing amounts of milk will run 
 out from dififerent Marschall tests. One may compare results 
 with the same test from one day to another, but a great deal of 
 confusion results from comparing dififerent Marschall tests. 
 
Enzymes. 41 
 
 so. errors to be avoided with marschajll, apparatus. 
 
 1. As there is no thermometer included in the Marschall 
 apparatus the operator is Hkely to forget that temperature 
 affects the rennet action. One should always temper the vessel 
 before using in cold weather, and should carefully observe the 
 temperature of the milk, both when starting the test and at the 
 time of coagulation. A few degrees in temperature will modify 
 the results very materially. 
 
 2. One should exercise great care in running the milk into 
 the milk in the vat. Where a large number of tests are made 
 the rennet in the vat may coagulate the milk. 
 
 3. Do not compare the results with two pieces of apparatus 
 without first testing them on the sa.me milk. 
 
 QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER IV. 
 
 1. What are the two general classes of ferments.? 2. What 
 are enzymes and where do they originate? 3. What is the 
 effect of temperature on enzymes? 4. Who discovered galac- 
 tase and where is it found ? 5. Describe galactase. 6. What is 
 a rennet? 7. How are rennets preserved? 8. What is rennet 
 extract? 9. Where do the best rennets come from? 10. What 
 is scale pepsin? 11. What is the effect of acidity of milk upon 
 the curdling power of pepsin? 12. How does Armour's scale 
 pepsin compare in strength with Hansen's rennet extract? 13. 
 How is rennet extract made? 14. Why are reliable brands of 
 extract to be preferred? IS. What is the effect of heat on ren- 
 net action? 16. What is the effect of acidity on rennet action? 
 3 7. On what three factors is the rapidity of rennet action de- 
 pendent? 18. Who invented the rennet test? 19. Why are 
 glass graduates used in a rennet test inaccurate? 20. Describe 
 the Monrad test. 21. Describe the Marschall rennet test. 22. 
 In what respect are Marschall tests not alike ? 23. What errors 
 are to be avoided in using a Marschall test? 
 
Chapter V. 
 THE DEPORTMENT OF RENNET. 
 
 91. EXPERIMENTS IN RENNET ACTION. 
 
 That the student may better comprehend the deportment 
 of rennet under different conditions, a few statements are made 
 about the effect of the various conditions to which it may be 
 subjected, together with experiments suggested with the appa- 
 ratus used in the Monrad test, for demonstrating the truth of 
 the statements made. 
 
 92. EFFECT OF ACID AND ALKALI. 
 
 Acid in the milk accelerates and alkali retards coagulation. 
 
 Experiment (a). Make a test of a sample of milk, observing 
 carefully all conditions as to temperature, strength of rennet, 
 etc. Mark down in a notebook the result. Now add a small 
 quantity of dilute hydrochloric acid to the milk, being careful 
 to stir it constantly while slowly adding the acid. If in a labor- 
 atory where decinormal solutions of acid and alkali are available, 
 use about 25 c. c. of acid to a quart of milk, and note the number 
 of seconds required to coagulate when a test is made, carefully 
 observing all of the conditions for making a test properly. 
 
 Experiment (b). Repeat the experiment with an increased 
 quantity of acid added to the milk. 
 
 Experiment (c). Add slowly a small quantity of dilute 
 soda lye, being careful to stir the milk while adding it, and then 
 make a test as before. Keep careful notes in your note book. 
 
 Experiment (d). Make a rennet test of a sample of milk 
 and set it where it will remain warm. Make tests half an hour 
 or an hour later and note that less time is required for coagula- 
 tion. This is due to the ripening of the milk — or a.s the scientist 
 looks at it, the bacteria present have been turning the milk 
 sugar into lactic acid. 
 
 93. EFFECT OF WATER IN MILK. 
 
 Diluting milk with water retards coagulation. 
 Experiment (a). Make a careful rennet test of a sample of 
 milk. Next take one part of water and three parts of the milk 
 
 42 
 
The Deportment of Rennet. 43 
 
 in question. Mix them and then make a rennet test of the 
 mixture. 
 
 Experiment (b). Repeat the experiment with one part of 
 water and two parts of milk. 
 
 Experiment (c). Repeat the experiment with one part of 
 water and one part of milk. Can you determine any law gov- 
 erning the rate of coagulation in relation to the amount of water 
 present? Try these experiments with milks of different acidity. 
 
 04. THE EFFECT OF SALT (NaCl). 
 
 Salt in the milk checks the action of rennet, five per cent 
 stopping it altogeter. 
 
 Experiment (a). Make a rennet test of a sample of milk, 
 and make a careful note of the result. Now .a.dd by weight one 
 per cent of salt and make a careful rennet test. How does the 
 salt afTect the test? Try the same experiment with two, three, 
 four and five per cent of salt in the milk. 
 
 95. THE EFFECT OF TEMPERATURE. 
 
 Raising the temperature hastens, and lowering it retards 
 rennet action. 
 
 Experiment (a). Make a rennet test at the standard tem- 
 perature of 86° F., and write it down in your notebook. Now 
 make tests at 95°, 100°, 110°, 120°, 130° and 140°. 
 
 Experiment (b). Make a test at 86° a.nd then try tests at 
 80°, 70°, 60°, 50° and 40°. If much time is consumed in making 
 the tests, the student should make occasional tests at 86° F. to 
 detect the rate of ripening of the milk. 
 
 96. EFFECT OF ANAESTHETICS. 
 
 Anaesthetics, like chloroform and ether, suspend proto- 
 plasmic action but do not afifect enzymes. In this way it is 
 possible to distinguish between organized and unorganized 
 ferments. 
 
 Experiment (a). Make a rennet test of a sample of milk 
 and note the number of seconds required. Now add about 
 3 per cent of chloroform to the sample and sha.ke it in a bottle 
 or cylinder. Next make a test of it. It curdles the milk and 
 rennet is therefore an enzvme. 
 
44 Cheese Making. 
 
 07. thermal, destruction point. 
 
 At about 104° or 105° F. rennet in weak solutions is di'- 
 stroyed. 
 
 Experiment (a). Make a rennet test of a sample of milk 
 and note the number of seconds required. Next heat the rennet 
 test solution of rennet to 100° for ten minutes a.nd try a test 
 with it on the same milk. Try heating it to 105°, 110°, 115° 
 and 130° for five minutes and make tests after each heating. 
 Do not forget to record results in your notebook. 
 
 Experiment (b). Note the length of time required to 
 coagulate 160 c. c. of milk at 86° F. with 5 c. c. of strong com- 
 mercial rennet extract. Next heat a portion of this strong 
 rennet to 150° F. for five minutes and then note the length of 
 time required for coagulating 160 c. c. of milk at 86° F. with 
 5 c. c. of it. 
 
 98. EFFECT OF STRENGTH OF RENNET SOLUTION. 
 
 For a long time it was supposed that as the strength of the 
 rennet solution was increased, the length of time required for 
 coagulation was inversely shortened. This, however, is not 
 true. 
 
 Experiment (a). Make a rennet test of a sample of milk. 
 
 1. Make up a new solution of rennet, using two 5 c. c. 
 pipettes of rennet in the 50 c. c. fla.sk. This makes the rennet 
 solutioti double in strength, but the time required for coagula- 
 tion in a test is what ? 
 
 2. Make up a solution with three pipettes or 15 c. c. of 
 rennet in the 50 c. c. and make a test. 
 
 3. Make up a solution with four pipettes or 20 c. c. in the 
 50 c. c. W'hat are the results? 
 
 4. Try it with 25 c. c. of strong rennet diluted to 50 c. c. 
 It is suggested that the student secure a piece of charting paper 
 and chart out the results here obtained. If the rate of coagula- 
 tion was diminished inversely in proportion to the increase in 
 strength the results of these tests would when recorded, make 
 a diagonal straight line a.cross the chart, whereas they really 
 make a curved line. 
 
 99. SOLUBLE CALCIUM SALTS REaUIRBD FOR RENNET ACTION. 
 
 It has been previously stated (8) that the soluble salts of 
 calcium must be present in the milk or the rennet will not act. 
 
The Deportment of Rennet. 46 
 
 Take a. Babcock pipette of the pepsin solution, add three 
 or four drops of phenolphtalein solution and titrate with -^- 
 alkali. Do the same with rennet extract. 
 
 Experiment (a). Make a rennet test of a sample of milk. 
 Add a small quantity of a dilute solution of calcium chloride. 
 (Ca CI2) to the milk and make another test. The coagulation 
 will be accelerated. How much? 
 
 Experiment (b). Heat a portion of the sample of milk to 
 190° F. for ten minutes, cool it down and make a. test. It will 
 not coagulate for the calcium salts have been rendered insoluble 
 by the heat. 
 
 Experiment (c). To a pint of the original sample of milk 
 add 25 c. c. of a strong solution of ammonium oxalate, a.nd make 
 a rennet test. It will not coagulate because the soluble calcium 
 salts have been changed to insoluble calcium oxalate. 
 
 100. EFFECT OP AIIIiK PRESERVATIVES. 
 
 There is a very pernicious practice among dairymen of 
 using antiseptics to keep milk from souring. Among them are 
 preservaline (boracic acid) and formaldehyde solution sold under 
 the name of freezene, etc. These substances not only check 
 the necessary bacterial fermentations in the manufacture of the 
 cheese, but affect the rennet action. 
 
 Experiment (a). Make a rennet test of a sample of milk. 
 Then add 1 per cent of boracic acid to the sample and make a 
 rennet test. Try varying quantities of the boracic acid. 
 
 Experiment (b). Make a rennet test of a sample of milk 
 and then add 1 per cent of formalfne (formaldehyde solution) 
 to the milk and make a test. Try it with one-tenth of 1 per cent 
 of formaline in the milk. 
 
 Question : Should milk doctored with preservatives be 
 received at a cheese factory? 
 101. Scale pQpsin compared with rennet. 
 
 101. SCALE PEPSIN COMPARED WITH REIVWET. 
 
 Dissolve four grams of Armour's scale pepsin in 100 c. c. of 
 cold water. Now make rennet tests with this on milks of vary- 
 ing acidity, at the same time making tests with rennet extract 
 on the same milks for comparison. 
 
46 Cheese Making. 
 
 QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER V. 
 
 1. What is the effect of add in the milk on rennet action? 
 2. What is the effect of alkali on rennet action? 3. What is 
 the effect of water in the milk on rennet action? 4. What is the 
 effect of salt in the milk on rennet action? 5. What is the effect 
 of temperature on rennet action? 6. At what temperature is 
 rennet destroyed? 7. What is the effect of anaesthetics on ren- 
 net? 8. Is the time of curdling milk inversely proportional to 
 the strength of the rennet solution? 9, Wha.t part of the ash 
 of the milk is required for rennet action? 10. What is the effect 
 of boracic acid on rennet action? 11. What is the effect of 
 formaline on rennet action? 13. What is the effect of acidity 
 of milk on the curdling power of the pepsin solution ? 13. What 
 do you find the chemical reaction of the pepsin solution and 
 rennet extract to be ? 
 
Chapter VI. 
 CHEDDAR CHEESE. 
 
 102 HISTORY OF CHEDDAR CHEESE. 
 
 For some centuries cheese has been made in the farm dairies 
 in England arid Scotland, and the people that came to America 
 continued the manufacture at home of their surplus milk into 
 cheese. The process varied in different dairies and our British 
 cousins have been particularly jealous of their way of making, 
 being careful not to give away any of their secrets as they 
 believed them to be. The term Cheddar came from a town of 
 that name near Bristol. 
 
 103. RISE OP FACTORY SYSTEM IN NEW YORK. 
 
 The factory system started in America. Jesse WiUiams, 
 of Oneida County, New York, was the first factory operator. 
 In 1851 he and his sons, located on different farms, brought 
 their milk together and it was made into cheese under his super- 
 vision. From this start the factory system developed in New 
 York and was carried into other states and Canada. 
 
 104. IN OHIO. 
 
 In Ohio the first factory was built by Mr. Budlong, at 
 Chardon, Geauga County, in 1800. The second one was built 
 by Mr. Bartlett at Munson, Geauga County, in 1861. In 1862 
 John I. Eldridge built the third one in Aurora Township, 
 Portage County. The building is yet standing, but is not in use 
 at this time as a new building close by has taken its place. In 
 1863 Hurd Bros, built a factory at Aurora Station, which has 
 been in continual operation to the present time. After 1863 
 the factories multiplied in Ohio very rapidly. 
 
 105. IN WISCONSIN. 
 
 In Wisconsin the factory system started in about 1864, 
 when Chester Hazen started a factory at Ladoga, Fond du Lac 
 County, and Steven Faville started one near Wa.tertown. At 
 the present time there are about sixteen hundred factories in 
 the state, of which number probably about eleven hundred make 
 Cheddar cheese, the others being brick, Swiss and Limburger. 
 
 47 
 
48 
 
 Cheese Making. 
 
 106. TWO PROCESSES OF MANUFACTURE. 
 
 There are two processes of manufacture, one being the 
 granular system, in which the curd is kept in the granular form 
 from the time the whey is drawn until put to press; and the 
 matting system, in which the curd is allowed to mat into a solid 
 mass as soon as the whey is removed, and is afterward milled to 
 get it into a condition for salting before pressing. 
 
 '1^ 50unce"BoUle."Measur« 
 
 Farrington's apparatus for determining quickly milk of .2 per cent acidity. 
 
 107. CHEDDAR SYSTEM PROPER. 
 
 The latter system in which the curd is matted is termed 
 the Cheddar System. It produces a more meaty texture and 
 uniform grade of cheese and is superseding the granular system. 
 
 The Cheddar system as improved in the United States and 
 Canada has been introduced into Scotland and England through 
 Mr, Drummond, an American, in charge of the Kilmarnock 
 dairy school. 
 
 The following pages will treat of the best methods as we 
 know them today for making Cheddar cheese. . 
 
 FIRST STEPS IN CHEESE MAKING. 
 
 108. TEST FOR OVER-RIPE MILK. 
 
 Milk that has more than two-tenths of 1 per cent of lactic 
 acid should not be received for cheese making. But as milk 
 will not t.a.ste sour until there is three-tenths of 1 per cent of acid 
 in it, it is difficult to know by the taste when to reject such milk. 
 
Cheddar Cheese. 49 
 
 The Farrington acid test can here be brought into use and 
 the discrimination quickly made. The apparatus consists of a 
 white teacup, an eight-ounce salt mouthed bottle with a cork 
 in it, and a. measure made by soldering a wire handle onto a 
 No. 10 brass cartridge shell. Eight Farrington alkaline tablets 
 are dissolved in the eight-ounce bottle of water, which makes 
 a red liquid. A measure of the suspected milk is put into the 
 teacup and then two measures of the red liquid added. If on 
 stirring it, the pink shade remains, there is not two-tenths of a 
 per cent of acid present and the milk can be accepted. If on the 
 other hand the pink color disappears there is too much acid 
 present and the milk should be rejected. 
 
 109. STIR MIIK TO KEEP CREAM DOWN. 
 
 While the milk is being received it should be stirred in the 
 vat to keep the cream down. As soon as the milk has all been 
 received and the qua.ntity figured up, the steam should be 
 turned on and the milk heated to 86° F., and a rennet test made. 
 If the cheese maker is suspicious that the milk may be over- 
 ripe, he should' make a rennet test before the milk in the vat is 
 heated up to 86° F., by taking his sample for the rennet test in 
 the basin in which the test is made and warming it up in a pail 
 of warm water. 
 
 If the milk is found to be over-ripe, he will have to hurry 
 the process to keep ahead of the fermenta.tion. On the other 
 hand, if he finds the milk very sweet, and that he will have to 
 wait an hour or more for it to ripen down, he should use a 
 starter. 
 
 110. RIPENING THE MILK. 
 
 Jf the milk is ripened so as to coagulate in the same num- 
 ber of seconds each day, one can tell very closely the time when 
 the whey can be drawn ofi from the curd. It should be ripened 
 to a point where in two hours from the time the rennet is added 
 to the milk there will be "one-eighth of an inch of acid" on the 
 curd, as we shall see later on. 
 
 With the rennet extract we have been using at the D,airy 
 School, the milk when ripened to thirty seconds works off in 
 about the right lime, but the extract is very strong, one ounce 
 being sufficient to coagulate one thousand pounds of milk in 
 twenty minutes. If, however, our rennet extract was so weak 
 
50 Cheese Making. 
 
 that it would take four ounces of it to coagulate one thousand 
 pounds of the same milk in twenty minutes, it would be only 
 one-fourth as strong as the rennet we have been using, and 
 the milk would then have to be ripened so as to coagulate in 
 one hundred and twenty seconds instead of thirty. 
 
 111. HOW TO RIPEN MILK TO THE RIGHT POINT. 
 
 Starting in with the season's work the cheese maker has 
 nothing to guide him as to the ripeness of the milk, simply 
 because he does not know the strength of the rennet extract at 
 his disposal. The first day he makes cheese, he must make 
 a rennet test of his milk at the time he sets it and then observe 
 how the milk acts. If the milk is too sweet, he can calculate 
 about how much riper it must be to work just right, and in a 
 few days he will have the matter entirely under his control. 
 Cheese makers should never neglect to use the rennet test, for 
 it enables them to judge definitely the condition of their milk. 
 
 W'hen a maker is troubled with tainted milk it is often 
 necessary to ripen a little lower than with good milk, for the 
 bad flavor, as we have already learned, is due to some harmful 
 variety of bacteria which choke out the lactic ferments. 
 
 112. DEFINITION OF A STARTER. 
 
 A starter is simply a small quantity of milk in which the 
 lactic fermentation -has been allowed to develop, and there are 
 therefore millions upon millions of the desired kinds of bacteria 
 in it, and when these are put into the milk in the vat, they in- 
 crease very rapidly and hasten the ripening of the milk. 
 
 113. WHAT TO USE FOR A STARTER. 
 
 The starter should be saved from some patron's milk from 
 the morning or evening before, and should always be the best 
 flavored milk, for the whole vat will be made like it. 
 
 By adding about half water to the starter milk in the even- 
 ing it will not curdle so but that it will mix nicely in the vat. 
 
 From what has been previously said (30) it will be ob- 
 served that the milk selected as above is not sure to be the kind 
 of milk desired. If the Wisconsin curd test is used the milk 
 that habitually gives good curds can be selected. Even in that 
 case a bad fermentation may get in. The surest way of getting 
 a good starter is to use a lactic ferment culture. 
 
CllliiUDAK CllEESli. 51 
 
 114. LACTIC FERMENT STAUTIOK. 
 
 Lactic ferment is a culture placed on the market by Chr. 
 Hansen's Laboratory, Little Falls, X. Y. It is sold in large ami 
 small bottles. The small bottles cost less and are just as good 
 as the large ones, tor we can grow tiie culture ourselves if we 
 once get a start. One or two i|uarts (jf milk should be selected 
 a^ above and heated to •2tMi K. fijr hfteen minutes and then 
 cooled to TO' V. The contents of the bottle should be added to 
 the pasteurized milk. In twenty-four hours, if kept warm, the 
 milk will 1)1' sour and just al the curdling point. 
 
 .\n()llier lot of milk', in (|uantity as much as reciuired for a 
 2 per cent starter in our vat, should be selected as before and 
 heated to -iiMi I'", for lificen minutes, and then cooled to 70" F. 
 and the startaline added. In iwenty-iour liours it will be ready 
 to use. A little is saved each day to make new starter. The 
 starter should alwa\s be handled in sterile vessels. If care is 
 taken not to contaminate the starter, it can be propagated in a 
 ver\- i)ure state through a whole season. Carelessness in hand- 
 ling it will infect it with other germs, which will spoil it and it 
 will bo lu-cessarv to start over again. 
 
 113. WII.VT XOT TO ISE FOU X .ST.VHTIOIl. 
 
 A starter should not be saved from the vat oi milk nor the 
 whey, for the starter will then be likely to contain all sorts of 
 germs, good, bad and indifferent, and these will all be trans- 
 mitted from OIK' da\'s milk- to the next: in fact, a bad disi-ase 
 might be carried through the milk in this way for a whole sea- 
 son. Thick milk may be used for a starter, if one is hard 
 pressed, but it is belter not to let the starter get quite thick. If 
 the starter is thick, it should be strained carefully through a, 
 cloth strainer, for if clots of thick starter get into the vat of milk, 
 they will not be colored and nia\- Ie,-i\e white specks in the curd. 
 
 Milk should be ripened to a point where in two hours from 
 the time the rennet is added to the milk, there will be one^ 
 ei.ghth (')f an inch of acid on the curd. What is meant l)y an 
 eighth of an inch of acid will be explained further on. 
 ii<;. >iii,i\: Ml"'!' \(>'i' hi: TOO kiim:. 
 
 Milk should never be allowed t(:) ripen to a point where it 
 will wiirk too fast. Tn such ca.ses there will be too great a loss 
 of fat in the whe\-. and a sn'all \ ii'ld of cheese. 
 
52 CriKiisii; Making. 
 
 117. Anni.\<; thk coi.ou. 
 
 L'lUil lately cheese color has been made from the annatto 
 seed grown in South America. Cheaper and stronger color is 
 now bemg made from aniline, a coal tar product. The public 
 seems to be prejudiced against mineral coloring, but there is so 
 little of it in the cheese that we doubt if it is injurious to health. 
 Personally we like the looks of an uncolored cheese best. 
 
 DifTercnt markets require different shades. It sc.'nis to be 
 a genera.l rule that the further south we go the higlier the color 
 that is re(|uired. Chicago calls for a straw color. St. Louis 
 wants it higher, and Xew Orleans higher still. 
 
 The color should be added before the rennet. It should 
 be diluted with water and stirred in thoroughly In tiic cheese 
 it shoulil not be of a reddish hue. 
 
 BRANCH OF ANNATTO TREE. 
 
 lis. SETTING THE .MILK. 
 
 Having gotten our milk into the proper condition we are 
 now ready to set it. It should be set at 8G^ F. As sometimes 
 happens, the milk may have accidentally been warmed up to 
 
Cheddar Cheese. 53 
 
 90°. We would rather set the milk at that temperature than 
 wait to cool it down, for the milk will be ripening while we delay 
 setting it. The only objection to setting milk at 90° is that 
 the curd hardens too fast to cut it conveniently. If it were not 
 for that fact there would be no objection to setting it at 98°. 
 
 There is nothing to be gained by setting milk at 82° and 
 waiting for it to curdle. If milk is over-ripe time can be gained 
 by setting it at as high a temperature as it can be readily 
 handled. 
 
 For a fast curing cheese we should use enough rennet to 
 curdle the milk m fifteen to twenty minutes ; and for a slow 
 curing cheese enough to curdle in thirty to forty minutes. 
 
 119. RENNET SHOULD BE DILUTED. 
 
 The rennet should be diluted, not with milk (why?) but 
 with a dipperful or pailful of water, and then poured into the 
 vat evenly from one end to the other. The water should be 
 about 90° F. If above 100° F. the rennet will be weakened. 
 The milk should have been thoroughly stirred just previous to 
 adding the rennet, and then the rennet should be thoroughly 
 mixed with the milk. The stirring should be done gently so 
 tha.t the fat will not separate from the milk. 
 
 The milk should be kept in motion for several minutes; 
 the surface should then be stirred gently with the bottom of 
 the dipper so that the cream will not rise on the surface, and 
 the milk will set, or coagulate, and hold it down. The move- 
 ment of the dipper should be kept up for about half the time it 
 takes the milk to coagulate, and then a cover should be put over 
 the va.t to keep the surface of the milk from cooling ofT. 
 
 120. THE USE OF PEPSIN. 
 
 In substituting pepsin for rennet, only scale pepsin strength 
 1-3000 should be used. Weigh out at the rate of .5 gram for 
 every hundred pounds of milk in the vat, or for a slow curing 
 cheese at the rate of .4 gram. Dissolve in cold water before 
 adding to the milk. It can be obtained in 1 pound or smaller 
 bottles from Armour & Co., Chicago, or any dairy supply house. 
 A pound is enough for 100,000 pounds of milk. 
 
 121. WHEN THE CURD IS READY TO CUT. 
 
 The curd is ready to cut when it will break clean before the 
 finger. The index finger is thrust into the curd and pushed 
 
54 ' Cheese Making. 
 
 along through it about half an inch below the surface. The 
 curd is first split by the thumb, and when the proper firm'ness 
 is reached it will break as the finger is pushed along. If the 
 break is clean, that is, does not leave milky but clear whey 
 in the break, the curd is ready to be cut. 
 
 QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER VI. 
 
 1. State the history of Cheddar cheese. 2. Where and by 
 whom was the first cheese factory operated? 3. When and by 
 whom were the first factories in Ohio built? 4. When and by 
 whom were the first factories in Wisconsin built? 5. What are 
 the two processes of manufacture? 6. What is the Cheddar 
 system? 7. How much acid is allowable in milk for Cheddar 
 cheese? 8. Describe Farrington's rapid acid test. 9. To what 
 point by the rennet test should milk be ripened? 10. How 
 shall a maker determine at what point to set his milk? 11. What 
 is a starter? 12. How should milk for a starter be selected? 
 
 13. What is a lactic ferment starter, and how is it prepared? 
 
 14. Why should not whey or milk from the v,at be used for a 
 starter? 15. From what is cheese color made? 16. Describe 
 the different shades of color required by different markets. 
 17. At what temperature should milk be set, and why? , 18. Why 
 should over-ripe milk be set at a high temperature? 19. Why 
 should rennet be diluted before adding it to the milk? 20. In 
 the use of pepsin, what kind should be used? 21. How does 
 pepsin compare in strength with Hansen's rennet extract? 23. 
 When is the curd ready to cut? 
 
Chapter VII, 
 CUTTING AND HEATING THE CURD. 
 
 123. FIRMING THE CURD. 
 
 Through the work of heat and rennet the curd contracts 
 and expels the whey. In order that this may be more readily 
 done, we cut the curd into small cubes and raise the temperature. 
 The pieces of curd must be of the same size and shape, so that 
 they may expel the whey evenly. 
 
 The term "cook"' in use for the change brought about in the 
 condition of a curd is not strictly correct, as the curd is not 
 heated hot enough to induce the change ordinarily known as 
 cooking. The term has, however, come into general use by 
 cheese makers and when used by us the firming of the curd by 
 heat is meant. 
 
 133. HOW TO CUT A FAST AVORKING CURD. 
 
 When we have a fast working or over-ripe curd it should be 
 cut finer and heated faster than a normal working curd. 
 
 The English cheese-makers used to break the curd, first 
 with their hands, and then with wires, but the curd-knife has 
 entirely superseded that method. There are two forms of knives 
 used in the operation. 
 
 134. USE OF HORIZONTAL, CURD-KNIFE. 
 
 The first is the horizontal knife, which has eighteen or 
 twenty blades. When it is drawn through the length of the 
 vat, it will cut the curd into layers or blankets one-half inch 
 thick, by six inches wide, by the length of the vat long. Care 
 must be taken not to jam the curd, for if it is jammed it will be 
 lost in the whey. The flat sides of the blades should not be 
 forced into the curd to get the knife into a position to cut it, 
 for they will jam the curd in so doing. 
 
 125. HOIV TO INSERT THE HORIZONTAL. KNIFE. 
 
 The length of the knife is therefore held in a horizontal 
 position, the upper end of the knife near the handle resting 
 on the top of the end of the vat. The knife is then swung 
 
 55 
 
50 
 
 Cheese Making. 
 
 down into the curd, the edges of the blades cutting- into the 
 curd and taking a circular course till the knife has assumed a 
 vertical position parallel with the end of the vat, the lower end 
 of the knife resting on the bottom of the vat. In this move- 
 ment we have not jammed the curd, but have the knife in a: 
 position to move it through the length of the vat and cut the 
 curd into the layers. But these layers are only six inches wide 
 and we will have to cut the whole vat of curd into these layers. 
 Then keeping the knife in the curd we must turn it without 
 breaking the curd, so that we can run the knife to the other 
 end of the vat. Using the side of the knife next to the uncut 
 curd as a center, we turn the knife around through 180° of a 
 circle, and we are ready to carry the knife to the other end of 
 the vat. 
 
 126. HOW TO TAKE THE KNIFE OUT. 
 
 W|hen we have cut the vat of curd all up into blankets, the 
 knife is taken out in the reverse order to which it went in. 
 
 Horizontal Knife. 
 
 Pcipcxidicular Knife. 
 
 The horizontal knife is now laid aside and the operation 
 finished with the perpendicular knife. The blades in this knife 
 run in the direction of the longest dimension of the knife. 
 
 Unlike some cheese-makers, the maker should not wait 
 here for the whey to rise over the curd before finishing the 
 
Cutting and Heating the Curd. 57 
 
 operation, for the pieces of curd will get out of place, and the 
 curd being harder will not be so easily cut. 
 
 127. HOW TO INSERT THE PERPENDICULAR KNIFE. 
 
 One should next start cutting in the same place as with 
 the other knife, inserting it in the curd in the same way, for it 
 has cross braces which are really horizontal blades, and one 
 must avoid jamming the curd with them. Next draw the knife 
 over the same course that the other knife went, and we have the 
 curd cut into strips one-half inch square and the length of the 
 Yat long. 
 
 Next cut crosswise of the vat, being careful not to jam the 
 curd, and we then have it cut into half-inch cubes. 
 
 If we are making up slow working milk, this amount of 
 cutting may be enough, but if it is necessary to cut finer, it can 
 be done by cutting alternately lengthwise and crosswise. The 
 strokes should be much quicker now, as the curd has been 
 getting harder and finer and will pass between the blades, and 
 a quick stroke is therefore necessary to cut it. 
 
 3 38. RAPIDITY OF STROKE A FACTOR. 
 
 When a cheese maker says he cuts a curd a. certain number 
 of times, he does not convey the proper idea, for the rapidity 
 of his strokes is a great factor, and if he cuts lengthwise of the 
 vat six times and crosswise six times, and cuts with a slow 
 motion, the curd may not be cut any finer than if it had been 
 cut only four times each way with a quick stroke. 
 
 heating the curd. 
 139. keep curd moving. 
 
 As has been said, the curd was cut to allow the whey to 
 escape, but if the curd is not kept moving it will settle to the 
 bottom of the vat and mat together again. Therefore, as soon 
 35 the curd has been cut, begin stirring the curd by hand or 
 with a wire basket made for the purpose. 
 
 Do not allow the curd to collect in the corners of the vat, 
 and be sure and rub it off from the sides of the vat or it will 
 scald on. The whey should look clear, and be as free as pos- 
 sible from specks of curd floating in it. 
 
 1.30. WHEN TO BEGIN HEATING. 
 
 Curd being a poor conductor of heat, one degree in five 
 minutes is fast enough to heat normal morking milk. If it is 
 
58 
 
 Cheese Making. 
 
 heated too fast, it will cook the particles on the outside and 
 hold the whey inside of them; and the result will be a mottled 
 whey-soaked cheese. The cdrd does not expel the whey as fast 
 at 86° F. to 90° F. as it does at a little higher temperature, so 
 that the temperature should be applied slowly at first. 
 
 131. COOKING AN OVER-RIPE CURD 
 
 If the milk is over-ripe, however, it expels the whey faster, 
 and the curd must be heated faster and higher than normal 
 working curd, or there will be the required amount of acid on 
 the curd before it is hard enough to remove it from the whey. 
 As a usual thing it is not necessary to cook a curd above ninety- 
 
 Vlc.Fherson Caret Rake. 
 
 eight degrees, but a curd must be cooked before drawing the 
 whey, no matter if the temperature has to be raised to one 
 hundred and ten degrees to do it. (For definition of cooked 
 curd, see paragraph 135.) It is necessary to cook a fast work- 
 ing curd in that way, and if the curd is taking acid too rapidly 
 for the heating in the whey to be sufficient to firm the curd 
 before the acid is too great, the whey can be drawn and the 
 
Cutting and Heating the Curd. 59 
 
 remainder of the firming done in warm water, which is run into 
 the vat in place of the whey. (See, however, paragraph 145 
 regarding this.) 
 
 132. STIRRING THE CURD. 
 
 To assist the curd in heating evenly and keep it from mat- 
 ting together, it should be stirred from the time it is cut till it 
 is cooked. Some Canadian factories ha.ve a steam stirring 
 apparatus which is very handy, but in most factories it is done 
 with a rake. 
 
 133. CURD RAKES. 
 
 There are two kinds of curd rakes in use, the common 
 wooden hay rake and the McPherson curd rake. 
 
 The rake is put into the whey as soon as the steam is 
 turned on, and the curd is started into a rolling motion as 
 though it were boiling. The stirring is commenced with the 
 rake, teeth up, at one end of the vat, and the rake is worked 
 down the length of the va.t, making the curd roll on the side 
 of the vat opposite the operator; then back again, making it 
 roll on the side toward him. Care should be taken that curd 
 does not collect in the corners of the vat; nor should it be 
 allowed to roll up into little balls. On the other hand it must 
 not be jammed, or fat will be lost in the whey at the expense 
 of the yield of cheese. 
 
 134. Mcpherson curd rake. 
 
 The McPherson curd rake has large triangular teeth with 
 the base of the triangle forming the end of the tooth. This 
 form of rake makes it much easier to give the curd a rolling 
 motion. Some rakes have only two large teeth, and others 
 several, but smaller ones. It is well to have two short wooden 
 pins about a h^lf to three-quarters of an inch long, in the back 
 of the rake, to prevent its jamming the curd on the bottom 
 of the vat. 
 
 135. HOW TO TELL A PROPER COOK. 
 
 One of the most important steps in the process is to know 
 when a curd is cooked enough. There should be one-eighth 
 of an inch of acid on the curd, and then the whey should bie 
 drawn. Here it will be seen that our judgment comes into play 
 to know how fast to heat a curd, to have it just firm enough 
 when the acid comes. The rennet test will help us to regulate 
 
60 Cheese Making. 
 
 this, but if the rennet test indicates that we have a fast working 
 milk it will be necessary to cook faster, and perhaps higher. 
 When the whey is drawn the curd must not be salvy and soft, 
 but when a big double hanclful is pressed together in the hands, 
 and one hand removed, it should not remain in a. mashed-up 
 mass, but should fall apart readily. The particles of curd should 
 be examined from time to time, to see that they are cooking 
 on the inside as well as the outside. 
 
 An overcooked curd will give a "corky" cheese, while on 
 the other hand, an undercook will give a salvy, weak bodied 
 cheese that is in danger of souring. 
 
 QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER VII. 
 
 1. What is meant by firming or cooking a curd? 2. How 
 should a fast working curd be cut? 3. Describe the use of the 
 horizontal and perpendicular knives. 4. What effect has the 
 rapidity of stroke on the fineness to which a curd can be cut? 
 5. Why do we cut a curd? 6. Why do we heat a curd? 7. How 
 soon after cutting should a maker begin heating a curd? 8. How 
 should an over-ripe curd be heated? 9. Why do we stir a curd? 
 10. Describe the McPherson curd rake? 11. How can one tell 
 when a curd is properly cooked? 13. What is the effect in the 
 cheese of an overcook? 13. What is the effect in the cheese 
 of an undercook? 
 
Chapter VIII. 
 
 DRAWING THE WHEY DIPPING AND MILLING 
 THE CURD. 
 
 i:ir,. mi: vsi ui\(i .\<io. 
 
 \\ ln-n tluTc is an eighth of an inch of acid on the curd, the 
 whey shoukl be dra.vvn ofif. 
 
 Strictly speaking, acid cannot be measured by the inch, but 
 the acid seems to act on tlie curd in some way. so tiial when 
 a piece is touched to a iiot iron and (h'awn away, it will leave 
 tine, silkv threads ])ehind. sticking to the iron. With normal 
 workin;;' milk, when the curd is first cooked uj), it will not string 
 al all: but when the acid has reached a certain strength, it will 
 begin to string, at tirst barely sticking to the iron, and as the 
 acid increases, the strings will get longer, till the\ may be sev- 
 eral inches in length. 
 i:t7. 'riiuio \i)s ni lo to a (in. 
 
 Thai the threads are in no way due to the rennet, but are 
 (lei)endent on the acid, is shown when milk sours naturally, 
 .^uch a sour milk curd will usually string on a hot iron. If acid 
 is imroduced into the milk in sufficient ([uantily to cunlle it. the 
 curd will likeh string, in fact, strings of any desired length can 
 be proiluced. bv adding the right (|uantity of acid to the milk. 
 However, if too luucli acid is added, it will make a S(ift. mushy 
 curd, which will not string. 
 
 The acid softens the cur<l so that it readily sticks to the 
 hot iron, .\boul Iwn-lenths of 1 per cent of acid in the whey 
 uuist be present to make it string an eighth of an inch. .\s 
 the aci<l increases the strings get longer. .\ny solvent ni the 
 casein will produce this result on the hot iron. T'.ora.x, which is 
 alkaline in reaction, will bring about this result. 
 i::.s. I SI', or AnnmiOTKR. 
 
 Trof. 11. 11. Dean of the < iuelph Dairy School favors the 
 use of the acidimeler. This is the Afanns" acid test The 
 appar.atus consists of a .■■)ii c. c. burette, a solution of phenolph- 
 
 61 
 
Drawing the Whey. 63 
 
 talein, a Babcock pipette and a tenth normal alkali solution. 
 When a pipette of milk or whey is used 1 c. c. of the alkali used 
 is equal to .05 per cent of lactic acid. The Farrington tablet 
 solution may be substituted for the alkali. Use 19.5 c. c. of 
 water for each tablet. Each c. c. of the solution used will be 
 equal to .01 per cent of lactic acid. 
 
 139. RESULT OF TOO MUCH ACID. 
 
 When too much acid is developed in the whey, there is also 
 a great loss of fat, as well as of casein. Experience has taught 
 us, that as a usual thing we cannot let the curd take more 
 than one-eighth of an inch of acid in the whey without disas- 
 trous results. If we were to wait but a short time after there 
 are strings an eighth of an inch long, we would find perhaps, 
 that they had increased to an inch in length, and our curd would 
 be ruined. It is therefore necessary that one should work 
 nimbly at this stage of the process. Not only should the whey 
 be drawn ofif from the curd, but the curd must also be thor- 
 oughly drained, for whey in the curd will have the same effect 
 as though the curd were still in the whey. Of course the curd 
 must contain its natural amount of moisture, but there must 
 be no pools of free whey in or on the curd. 
 
 Dr. Van Slyke has shown that lactic acid acting upon the 
 curd forms a substance which he calls mono-lactic-acid-para- 
 casein. This is dissolved out of the curd by strong brine. This 
 is the substance which makes the curd cement and string. 
 When a double amount of acid unites with the curd it forms 
 di-lactic-acid-paracasein which gives it the characteristics of 
 high acid or sour cheese. The formation of mono-lactic-acid- 
 paracasein aftects the subsequent changes in the curing of the 
 cheese. 
 
 In the old system of granular cheese making, the curd 
 was stirred over in the bottom of the vat, and then a ditch 
 made in the middle for it to drain. In this stirring, consider- 
 able fat was lost, and the curds were not uniform in moisture. 
 The reason of this was, that they were stirred drier one day than 
 another. 
 
 140. CURD RACK. 
 
 In the Cheddar system, which we follow, the curd is drained 
 on racks, which are placed either in the bottom of the vat or 
 
64 
 
 Cheese Making. 
 
 in a curd sink. The racks are made of hard wood, preferably- 
 maple. They are constructed of strips rounded on the top, 
 three-fourths of an inch thick, two inches wide, screwed onto 
 two other pieces two inches high, three-fourths of 'an inch thick, 
 and four feet long. The slats are three-eighths of an inch apart, 
 and extend crosswise of the vat, and are long enough, so that 
 not more than a quarter of an inch of space is left between each 
 end and the sides of the vat. The racks are usually in two 
 four-foot sections. 
 
 141. RACKS— HOW USED. 
 
 When the whey is drawn down, so that there is but very 
 little whey left in the vat to interfere with operations, the vat is 
 tipped so that one end is five or six inches lower than the 
 
 n 
 
 
 TPIFl '' 
 
 - — n- 
 
 r^ 
 
 ~j 
 
 'ji : 
 
 > ' ■ ' > ■' 
 
 1 1 
 
 ; 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 : 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 ■ \ 
 
 
 
 
 
 f 1 1 1 
 
 r; 
 
 
 
 1 , ■ 
 
 
 
 ' 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ' 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ; ' 
 
 ■ 1 ; 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 « 
 
 1 1 1 1 
 
 
 
 
 Lj 
 
 jULI :_ 
 
 lJl 
 
 
 ' 
 
 u 
 
 other, and the curd is shoved down to the lower- end till about 
 five feet of the upper end is cleared. The first section of the 
 rack is then put in, and a linen strainer cloth thrown over it. 
 This strainer cloth should be about twelve feet long, and wide 
 enough (60 inches) to come up over the sides of the vat. The 
 surplus cloth is then tucked under the lower end of the rack, 
 and the curd piled onto it and broken apart to allow the whey 
 to escape. 
 
 It should be stirred over several times, and then left to 
 mat evenly about six inches deep. The space, formerly occu- 
 pied by the curd that has been put onto the racks, is now clear, 
 and the second section of the rack can be placed in the vat. 
 This is put in close to the first section, and the cloth that had 
 
Drawing the Whey. ' 65 
 
 been tucked out of the way, is drawn over it and covered with 
 curd, care being taken, as on the first section, to stir out the 
 whey. The sides and ends of the strainer cloth are then 
 wrapped over the curd, and the vat covered with a heavy cloth 
 cover to keep the curd warm. The temperature must be main- 
 tained, to keep fermentation going on. 
 
 142. CUTTING THE CURD INTO BLOCKS. 
 
 After ten or fifteen minutes, the curd will have matted 
 together, and can be cut into large blocks, which are turned 
 over. 
 
 The best instrument for cutting the curd that the author 
 has seen is an instrument invented by Mr. B. B. Herrick, assist- 
 ant in cheese making in the Ohio Dairy School. It is a trun- 
 
 Herrick's Curd Knife. 
 
 cated piece of heavy tin or galvanized iron ten inches wide by 
 sixteen inches long. It is folded at the ends and has a bead 
 turned on the back to stiffen it. By taking this in both hands 
 it can be pressed down into the curd cutting it quickly without 
 damage to the strainer cloth. 
 
 The curd can be cut once or twice down the length of the 
 vat, and across the vat into pieces eight inches wide. 
 
 143. TURNING THE CURD. 
 
 Begin at the lower end to turn the curd, for it will be more 
 convenient to place the hands under the curd on the side 
 toward the upper end of the vat, and roll it over. In so doing, 
 it is not necessary to lift the piece, thereby breaking it. Con- 
 tinue turning the other pieces in the same manner, till the last 
 piece at the upper end of the vat is reached, then, by a pull of 
 the cloth, it is turned over. Cover it up and let it stand to mat 
 
66 Cheese Making. 
 
 still closer. By using racks, the whey runs through when the 
 curd is turned over. Watch the curd, and if whey should col- 
 lect between the pieces, turn them over and let it run off. The 
 curd should be turned from time to time, but much oftener at 
 first, to facilitate the expulsion of the whey. After a while the 
 curd will begin to get a grain to it, and will tear like the meat 
 on a chicken's breast. 
 
 144. PIN-HOLEY CURDS. 
 
 If we have what is called a "gassy" or "pin-holey" curd, the 
 gas will begin to form in little holes about the size of a pin head. 
 Through the flattenmg of the curd, these holes are flattened and 
 the gas escapes. Sometimes these pin holes appear before the 
 curd is taken out of the whey, and, if they are plentiful enough, 
 the curd will float on the surface of the whey, and we have 
 what is called a "floater." But this does not occur very often, 
 if we draw the whey in time. It used to occur quite often with 
 bad milk, when the curd was left in the granular form, and more 
 acid was run in the whey. The pin holes were not flattened, 
 and consequently appeared in the cheese. Such curds are often 
 accompanied by a bad flavor. They are probably caused from 
 bad ferments, but may be due to bad flavored food. Clover 
 and watercress, when eaten by the cows, have been known to 
 give a curd with pin holes. 
 
 Some' of the taints are much more persistent than others. 
 As a usual thing, a taint cannot be gotten entirely out of the 
 cheese. 
 
 145. AVASHI3VG CURDS. 
 
 A curd can be greatly improved by washing it. When put 
 onto the racks, and before it has had time to mat, a few pails of 
 water at a temperature of 105" F. will wash out a great deal of 
 the taint. 
 
 The author is not now as much in favor of washing curds 
 as he was several years ago. A light washing may improve a 
 curd, but with other substances the lactic acid is washed out 
 and without lactic acid a fine Cheddar flavor cannot be obtained. 
 
 We have carried on extensive experiments with this in view. 
 Sweet curd cheese, made from very sweet milk never develops 
 the characteristic Cheddar flavor. Unless two-tenths of a per 
 cent of lactic acid in the whey is developed, this flavor will be 
 
Drawing the Whey. 07 
 
 lacking in the cheese. Curds that have an over amount of acid 
 in the whey may appear for the first month to be improved in 
 quality by washing, but after that time, when it is usually be- 
 vond the maker's observation and in the wholesale dealer's 
 hands, it will develop a ragged texture and bad flavor like a 
 sweet curd cheese which has been exposed to a high tempera- 
 ture. 
 
 At the Wisconsin Experiment Station it has been shown 
 that the lactic acid and milk sugar holds the gas germs in check. 
 If it is necessary to wash the curd very much cane sugar applied 
 at the rate of two and a half pounds to the hundred pounds of 
 curd will keep the undesirable fermentations in check. 
 
 146. USE OF A CURD SINK. 
 
 It is much easier to get the curd onto the racks and expel 
 the whey, by using a curd sink. Nor is as much fat lost in the 
 operation, for where the curd mats together in the vat before it 
 can be gotten onto the racks, it is necessary^ to break it apart to 
 let the whey out, and the necessary bruising forces the fat out 
 of it. 
 
 147. PROPER FORM OF CURD SINK. 
 
 The common form ot curd sink, with an opening along the 
 whole length of the bottom, is to be avoided. The sink should 
 be a tin lined- box with a channel bottom. There should be 
 racks in it, and the channel under the racks will leave a place 
 for hot water, to keep the curd warm. There should be a faucet 
 at the lower end that can be opened to let the whey drain ofif, 
 and then closed to keep the water under the curd. If the racks 
 are not used, the curd will not drain sufficiently ; and if there is 
 an opening along the bottom, there will be a current of air 
 started up around the curd which will be cooled. Of course 
 this is just what must be avoided, because the fermentation will 
 be checked, if the curd cools down. 
 
 148. HOW TO FILL THE CURD SINK. 
 
 When the curd smk is used, the whey should be drawn down 
 in the vat till it just barely covers the curd ; for while it is cov- 
 ered with whey, it will not mat. The curd sink is then run to 
 the lower end of the vat, and the curd dipped over onto the racks 
 in the curd sink. All the whey runs through, and the curd is 
 left dry to mat properly. If the curd is tainted, it can be more 
 
68 Cheese Making. 
 
 thoroughly washed, as the curd, is not matted together, and the 
 water will wash all around the particles. As the curd is filled 
 into the sink, this can be moved along, and the curd filled into 
 it evenly. 
 
 After the curd has been turned several times, the maker 
 can begin piling it. He can pile it two, three, or five or six 
 
 Curd Scoop. 
 
 layers deep, but he should keep the pieces pretty well together, 
 so that the curd will not spread too much at first. 
 
Drawing the Whey. 69 
 
 149. KEEP THE CURD WARM. 
 
 The pieces that .have been on the outside of the pile should 
 be placed on the inside, so that the temperature may be kept 
 even. We must not forget the fact, that cheese-making- is a 
 process of fermentation, and that heat is a great factor in it. 
 
 150. PILING CURDS. 
 
 Piling the curd has a tendency to make a fast-curing, soft 
 or "weak-bodied," cheese. If a fast-curing, soft cheese is de- 
 sired, then the curd should be piled, but if a slow-curing, firm- 
 bodied cheese is desired, we should pile the curd very little or 
 not at all. In many of the best Canadian factories, the curd is 
 not piled at all, but is turned over and over. A curd, from over- 
 ripe milk, should not be piled very much, as such a curd is likely 
 to produce a "salvy" cheese. 
 
 MILLING THE CURD. 
 
 151. WHEN A CURD IS READY TO MILL. 
 
 In the course of an hour and a half from the time the curd 
 has been dipped onto the racks, it will have matted down, and 
 assumed a meaty texture. It will not tear out in chunks, but in 
 strips like the meat on a chicken's breast. There will also 
 probably be half an inch or more, likely an inch, of fine strings, 
 when tried on a hot iron. It is then ready to grind or mill, that 
 is, it is put into a curd mill and cut into small pieces. The acid 
 should be developing well at this stage of the process, but the 
 amount of acid is not so important as that the curd shall be 
 meaty in texture. 
 
 152. DfiSCRIPTION OF CURD 3IILL.S. 
 
 The first curd mills were used in England. They con- 
 sisted of a hopper, in the bottom of which was a roller with iron 
 pegs in it. Sometimes there were two rollers. On the side of 
 the hopper were iron pegs, and when the curd was thrown into 
 it, the pegs in the roller would catch it, and carry it-against the 
 pegs, and tear and squeeze it to pieces. 
 
 The old Roe mill is made on this principle. The old Elgin 
 mill was also on the same plan, only there was less room for 
 the curd to get between the pegs, and the curd was badly 
 smashed and jammed. It helped to get rid of the fat, and such 
 a mill ought never to have been used. 
 
Peg Mill. 
 
 Pohl Mill. 
 
 McPherson Curd Mill 
 
 Common Knife Curd Mill 
 
 70 
 
Drawing the Whey 
 
 71 
 
 153. POHL MILL,. 
 
 The next form of peg mill is the Pohl mill, which has sharp 
 teeth on two cylinders, revolving at different velocities, which 
 pick the curd to pieces. The objection to this mill is, that it 
 does not leave the curd in the same size pieces. Some of the 
 pieces will be quite large, while others are small, and when salted 
 the salt will not be evenly distributed. There is a self-salting 
 attachment to the mill, but it is useless, as a curd is never ready 
 to salt when milled. 
 
 Fuller Hand-Power Cuid Mill. 
 
 [FULLERS i 
 
 flJUD MIIL 1 
 
 \m fioLvcRsripS'i '' ' 
 
 Fufier Power Curd Mill. 
 
 154. WHITLOW MILL. 
 
 A knife-mill does not jam the curd as much as a peg mill 
 does. It simply cuts it. One of the earliest forms of knife- 
 mills was built after the form of peg-mills, as is seen in the 
 Whitlow mill of Canada. There are a number of knives on a 
 shaft which play between knives in the side of the hopper. 
 When the curd is put into the hopper, it is caught between the 
 knives and cut into small pieces. The B. & W. mill is practi- 
 cally the same mill. 
 
Harris Curd Mill 
 
 Barnard Hand Power Curd Mill. 
 
 72 
 
Drawing the W'liiiv. 73 
 
 155. Mcl'lIICKSON .MILL. 
 
 Till' McPherson mill, invented in Eastern Ontario, consists 
 of a wheel with knives in it similar to the blade ot a plane. A 
 hopper feeds the curd down against the wheel, and as it turns, 
 slices of curd are sha\'ed off. The wheel is apt to make the 
 curd fly. 
 tr,ii. <;(»s.sioLi.\ MILL. 
 
 The ( iosselin mill is similar Uj the .Mcl'herson, the blade 
 being- placed in a cyhnder. The curd placed in a hopper rubs 
 ag-ainst the blades and drops into the c\linder, which being open 
 at the ends, allows the curd to fall out. 
 
 157. TIIK II.VRItIS MILL. 
 
 The Harris mill has a network of knives at the bottom of a 
 hopper. .\ plunger works by a lever into this hopper, and 
 when a chunk of curd is dropped into this, the plunger forces 
 it through the knives, leaving the curd in pieces one-half inch 
 square, anrl as long as the ]jiece of curd dropped into the hopper. 
 
 15S, TIIK riLLBR .MILL. 
 
 The Fuller mill has two knives with a smaller number of 
 blades than the Harris, placed one on either side of the hopper 
 and the curd is pressed through the knives by a plunger that 
 works back and forth across the bottom of the hopper. 
 
 15!). Tin: n.VKN.VIll) MILL. 
 
 The I'.arnard is similar to the Fuller mill. 
 
 l«;o. rilK K ASIMOIl MILL. 
 
 The Kasper mill is like the Pohl except that the pegs on 
 the rollers are replaced by a cylinder of knives. The curd is 
 pressed through the knives by means of a wooden roller. The 
 cylinder is in three sections which open automatically and let 
 the curd fall out. 
 
 KM. vn\ WT A«ii:s AM) oii.ii:< 'i'i()>s ro kmim", mills. 
 
 Tlu' other advantage of a knife-mill, besides saving the fat 
 in the curd, is that the curd will not mat together on the racks, 
 but can ea>il\ be torn to pieces by hand. An objection offered 
 to such mills i.s. thai the curd will not press together well. It 
 may perhaps be tlii'licult at times, but the trouble in closing the 
 cheese lies somewhere else. It must be remembered that knife- 
 
74 
 
 CriiiiiiSE Making 
 
 mills are used, hardly without exception, in factories where the 
 best Canadian cheese is made, and this cheese is shipped to 
 England, where the bandages are often strip])ed off from ilu-m, 
 and they must necessarily be closed. 
 
 If the trouble in closing the cheese be carefully investigated 
 it will 1)0 found to be in the bandage used, or the temperature 
 of the curd. Some makers let the curd mat together again. 
 
 KASPER ROTARY CURD MILL. 
 
 and grind a second '"^r third lime, bul we do nol like >o ninch 
 hacking of the curd. Thr curd should be piled up to ilattrn the 
 pinholes, and then stirred ever\ tifleeu minutes to give it air. 
 102. STinRiN*; THE frun. 
 
 .\ five-lined fork, with the points nuMied into litlle loops to 
 prevent catching into the chnh, or slicking into the sink, is a 
 very handy t(jol with which to stir the curd, li docs tlu' work 
 thorousfhlv. and with nuich less labor than with the hands alone. 
 
n>:{. ri:tiLO to him.. 
 
 The grinding should conic about hah' way in time from 
 (h])])ing the curd to salting it. It therefore should be an hour 
 ami a iialt" from grinding to salting. During all this time the 
 temperature should be kept up. (Why ?) 
 
 The curd shcDuid take all the acid it will before salting, which 
 is indicated by strings about two inches long on the hoi iron. 
 
 101. KFFECT OF DUY ACID. 
 
 If a fast-curing cheese is wanted, there is all the greater 
 reason for giving it all the acid it will take. 
 
 Do not be afraid of getting a sour cheese by giving it all the 
 drv acid it will take, [f one has not all the whev out of the 
 
 k 
 
 KtTtcl ul dcvclupiii^c II. I acnl <<n ciir.l before pressing. The cheese marked L was 
 cut as soon as taken from the press. The cliecse V was cut after standinR fur a week. 
 The small- crevices left between the unceniented particles of cunl in I. had been 
 expanded by the development of gas, thus making the clieese luilT. 
 
 curd, there is no danger of a sour cheese. It is acid in the whey 
 that makes a smir clieese. 
 
 .\ tallowy cheese may possibh' result from a i)rolongeil mat- 
 ting, but this is seldom the case. If the ciu"ing ro(3m is not 
 under control in hot weather the cheese is safer if well developed 
 on the racks, li the curing room temperature can be held down 
 to (J") I-". ii will not be necessarv to develop so much acid on the 
 racks. 
 
a 
 
 76 CiiEESi; Making. 
 
 H!o. now TO K.Vl'KL fJAS. 
 
 it the pin holes are not all llaliened oul b}' the lime the 
 maker is ready to salt the curd, it can be put into the hoops and 
 pressed up for fifteen niinutes. Then take it out and pull to 
 pieces by hand or with the fork. This, however, is not neces- 
 sary except in very stubborn cases. The gas can usually be 
 expelled by thorough airing and piling. 
 
 !<»>. STEA>II\t; ClUDS. 
 
 The vat or curd sinks shcmld be covered with a heavy can- 
 vas cover. A steam hose can be inserted under it in such 
 position that the liot steam will not strike the curd directly. A 
 gentle stream of steam will keep the curd warm and the moisture 
 seems to dispose oi taints in the curd. 
 
 QUESTIONS ON- CII.M'TER VHI. 
 
 1. What is meant by an eighth of an inch of acid on a curd? 
 2. Why (h) the threads string out on the hot iron? 3. How 
 much acid must be present in the whey to cause strings one- 
 eighth of an inch in length? -L. What is the effect of too much 
 acid in the whey? 5. How are ciu'd racks useil in the vat? 6. 
 Describe the Herrick curd knife. T. Wdiy and how^ should the 
 curd on the racks be turned? S. What are ''pinholey" curds 
 and how should they be handled? '.). What can be said in fav<ir 
 of and against washing curds? 10. tEow may curds be treated 
 to prevent bad fermentations due to too much washing? II. 
 What is the advaiUage of a curd siid«:? Vi. IImw should a curd 
 sink be constructed? 1-".. How sIkuiM the curd sink I)e tilled? 
 14. Why should a curd be kept warm and how ma\- it be piled 
 to accomplish this? 1."). What is the effect of high anl low 
 piling? Hi. W'lien is a curd ready to mill? \'.. Describe the 
 old peg mill> and what is the object i^m to ihem? is. r)escribe 
 the Poll! null? 10. Describe the Whitlow anl I".. .\; W. nulls. 
 20. Describe the Mcl^herson mill. -.'L. Describe the ( iosslein 
 mill. 22. Describe the Harris mill. -13. Describe the Fuller 
 mill and the Barnard mill. 'M. Describe th.e [\as|)er mill. 35. 
 What are the advantages for and objection to knifr mills, ^(i. 
 How should a hve-tined steel f«^rk he fixed to stir th,^ curd? 
 27. What is the effect of dry acid on a curd? '^S. How may a 
 tallowy cheese possibly result? 29. How may gas he expelled 
 from the curd? 30. What can be said about steaming curds? 
 
Chapter IX. 
 SALTING AND PRESSING THE CURD. 
 
 167. CONDITION OF A CURD FOR SALTING. 
 
 The curd, when ready to salt, should, when rubbed on the 
 hot iron, not smell like burnt hair, but like toasted cheese. It 
 should not feel harsh, but soft and silky, and when squeezed in 
 the hand, a mixture of half fat and half whey should run between 
 the lingers. 
 
 If it is clear whey that runs out, the curd is not 'ready to 
 salt. White whey should not run from a curd before salting. 
 In that case it has not been fully freed from whey, and there 
 is a heavy loss of fat. Of course, if the whey is in the curd, it 
 should be gotten rid of, but it ought not to be there. When 
 salted, a clear brine should run from the curd. 
 
 Few cheese-makers reaHze how important a step in the 
 process of cheese making the salting of thfe curd is, and they 
 salt all their curds according to some fixed rule, learned, from 
 their predecessors, without knowing what the salt does. 
 
 168. WHAT SALT IS.-^ 
 
 Salt is known to chemists by the name of sodium chloride. 
 It is a chemical combination of the metal sodium and chlorine 
 gas, in the proportion by weight, of twenty-three pai'ts sodium 
 to thirty-five and a half parts chlorine. 
 
 160. WHERE SALT COMES FROM. 
 
 It occurs in beds in the earth, and is either mined, or more 
 commonly obtained from salt wells, in which the salt is dis- 
 solved by the water, pumped up to the surface, and evaporated, 
 leaving the salt. But salt does not occur pure in these beds. 
 
 170. IMPURITIES IN SALT. 
 
 There are associated with it potassium chloride, calcium 
 chloride and sulphates of magnesia and lime. The presence 
 of calcium and magnesium chloride in the salt makes it lumpy 
 and damp, for these chlorides have a great attraction for water, 
 and will take it from the air. Calcium chloride and magnesium 
 give the salt a bitter taste. 
 
 These impurities, however, as well as the water .contained 
 in salt, are a verv low percentage of the whole, and when a salt 
 
 77 
 
78 
 
 Cheese -Makinc;. 
 
 dealer talks about his salt being so much stronger or purer 
 than any other high grade salt, it is not so. Do not understand, 
 however, that common barrel salt is just as good as the best salt 
 for cheese making, lor it is not. Common barrel salt contains 
 a great deal of dirt, and salt may take up bad odors, which will 
 be imparted to the cheese. 
 
 Fine salt that has probably been ground, and the crystals 
 broken, will dissolve faster than a coarser salt, in the natural 
 crystalline form. 
 
 Salts can easily be tested as to quality, by dissolving them 
 in pure water, in a glass cylinder, and shaking up to dissolve. 
 Use more salt than will dissolve. The best salt is that which 
 leaves a clear brine with no scum or dirt on the top, nor dirt in 
 the bottom of the solutions. Cheese is an article of food and 
 we do not want any dirt in it, so we should avoid dirty salt. If a 
 few drops of a solution of ammonium oxalate is poured into the 
 salt solution, any lime that may be in the salt will be thrown 
 down in the form of a white precipitate of calcium oxalate. By 
 this means we can form an idea of the amount of lime in the 
 salt. We doubt if a little lime (calcium oxide) is harmful in the 
 salt, but if the calcium is in the form of chloride, it will attract 
 moisture and make the salt lump. Lumpy salt will not be 
 evenly distributed in the cheese. 
 
 AVERAGE COMPOSITION OF AMERICAN DAIRY SALTS. 
 Analyses by F. W. WoU, Wis. Exp. Station. 
 
 NAME OF BRAND. 
 
 i 
 
 11 
 
 si 
 
 II 
 
 OC/3 
 
 11 
 
 E 
 
 11 
 
 So 
 
 3 c 
 
 "5 
 
 Anchor • • • • 
 
 3 
 
 97.79 
 
 1.48 
 
 .28 
 
 .C8 
 
 06 
 
 .31 
 
 
 3 
 
 98 01 
 
 1.42 
 
 .20 
 
 .16 
 
 .03 
 
 .18 
 
 Canfield & Wheeler 
 
 
 98 18 
 
 1 21 
 
 .22 
 
 .12 
 
 .04 
 
 .23 
 
 Diamond Crystal 
 
 
 99.18 
 
 54 
 
 .19 
 
 .05 
 
 03 
 
 .01 
 
 Genessee 
 
 
 98.27 
 
 1.11 
 
 .24 
 
 .07 
 
 .04 
 
 .16 
 
 Kansas 
 
 
 97.87 
 
 1 50 
 
 .31 
 
 .07 
 
 .05 
 
 .20 
 
 LeRoy 
 
 Vacuum Pan 
 
 
 98 15 
 
 1 31 
 
 .39 
 
 .08 
 
 .01 
 
 .06 
 
 
 98 00 
 
 1 15 
 
 .36 
 
 15 
 
 .03 
 
 .31 
 
 
 
 98.43 
 
 .96 
 
 40 
 
 .06 
 
 .03 
 
 .12 
 
 Worcester 
 
 
 98.57 
 
 .92 
 
 .25 
 
 .07 
 
 .02 
 
 .17 
 
Salting and Pressing the Curd. 79 
 
 171. what salt dobs to chebse. 
 
 In the first place, salt gives taste to a cheese. A cheese 
 without salt has an insipid fresh taste. Salt also takes out the 
 moisture, so that fermentation is checked. A cheese without 
 salt will cure very fast, in fact fermentation goes on so rapidly 
 that gas holes are formed. 
 
 The same thing is seen in brick and Swiss cheese, in which 
 the fermentation starts in the imsalted state, but the salt, which 
 is applied to the outside, works its way into the cheese before 
 it gets bad. It should be noted, that such cheese has to be 
 cured in a cellar, where there is a constant low temperature. It 
 would otherwise spoil. 
 
 172. EFFECT OF TOO MUCH SALT. 
 
 If a cheese is salted too heavy, it becomes dry and mealy, 
 and cures very slowly. The flavor is also injured. If we have 
 bad milk, we should salt higher to improve the flavor, for up to 
 a certain point, this is accomplished by heavier salting. We 
 believe this to be due to the fact, that as the fermentation is 
 checked by more salt, the gases formed have a chance to diffuse, 
 and get out of the cheese, without filling it with holes, and the 
 odor of the gases. Salt may also check the action of the 
 enzymes in their work of digesting the casein. (94.) 
 
 We would, therefore, if we wanted to make a fine flavored 
 cheese, salt it pretty heavy, say three pounds of salt per one 
 hundred of curd. It must be expected, however, that such a 
 curd will cure slowly. We cannot make the best kind of cheese 
 in a day, a week, nor a month. If one wants a fast-curing 
 cheese, he uses more rennet and less salt, but the product will 
 not be as good a cheese. It will not be as c.lose, nor as fine 
 flavored, for the gases will not have had time to escape from the 
 cheese. If. one is making a fine, slow-curing cheese, he need 
 not expect to get as much cheese per hundred weight of milk, as 
 if he were making fast-curing cheese, for the salt expels the 
 moisture and leaves less weight. 
 
 In an experiment in the Wisconsin Dairy School, a curd 
 was divided into three equal parts. The _ first lot received no 
 salt ; the second lot one and a half pounds of salt per hundred ; 
 
80 Cheese Making. 
 
 and the third lot three pounds per hundred. The curds were 
 
 then pressed separately, and the green cheese weighed as 
 
 follows : 
 
 The cheese with no salt 10 tbs. 
 
 The cheese with one and a half tbs. of salt. . . . 9.75 lbs. 
 The cheese with three pounds of salt 9.50 lbs. 
 
 As the cheese cured, they kept their relative weights. 
 
 Other experiments have borne out this result. 
 
 173. CURDS NOT ALWAYS SALTED THE SAME AMOUNT. 
 
 But curds should not always be salted at the same rate, 
 from day to day. 
 
 A moist curd needs more salt than a dry one, for two 
 reasons : First, the excess of moisture must be expelled by the 
 addition of salt ; .and second, as the expulsion of moisture takes 
 salt with it in solution, enough must be applied to leave the 
 proper amount in the cheese. 
 
 174. SA.LT SHOULD BE EVENLY DISTRIBUTED. 
 
 It is also essential, that the salt should be evenly distributed 
 through the cheese. If there is too much salt in the curd that 
 is put into the hoop last, it will crack the rind of the cheese. 
 
 175. APPLICATION OF SALT. 
 
 The curd should be spread out evenly in the curd sink, and 
 a part of the salt scattered evenly over it. The curd should 
 then be stirred thoroughly, and again , spread out, and the 
 remainder of the salt applied. It ought to be stirred every ten 
 minutes, to keep the salt from settling to the bottom of the pile 
 in the brine. 
 
 176. TEMPERATURE OF SALTING. 
 
 Before salting-, it should have been cooled to 90° F., for if 
 too warm, the fat may be expelled in large quantities with the 
 brine. The curd should not be put to press, till the salt has 
 been thoroughly dissolved and worked into it. 
 
 177. CONDITION OF SALTED CURD FOR PRESSING. 
 
 It will have a harsh feeling, due to the undissolved salt 
 crystals, and the outside of the pieces of curd are hardened, so 
 that they will not press together readily ; but as the salt works 
 into the curd, it will regain its velvety feeling. When this con- 
 dition has been reached, which is usually in fifteen to twenty 
 minutes, it is ready for the press. 
 
Salting and Pressing the Curd. 81 
 
 178. removing fat. 
 
 As indicated in paragraph 176 the fat may run over the 
 surface of the curd and prevent the particles cemeting. This 
 is especially true of a curd from tainted milk. By throwing two 
 or three pails of warm water (110°) over the curd this fat will 
 be washed off, and then ^ pail of cold water will harden the curd 
 so that the fat will not run. Of course a little fat is lost in this 
 way. If the curing room is cool enough to permit, salting the 
 curd a little earlier will prevent this. 
 
 PRESSING THE CHEESE. 
 
 179. CURD MUST NOT BE TOO WARM. 
 
 Before pressing, the curd should be cooled to between 
 eighty and eighty-five degrees. If put to press warmer, the fat 
 runs, and large quantities of it are lost. It also runs between 
 the pieces of curd so that they will not close together, and under 
 the bandage, preventing it from sticking. Poorly closed cheese 
 has often been blamed to the curd mill, when the trouble really 
 lay in the temperature at which it was put to press. 
 
 ISO. CURD MUST XOT BE TOO COLD. 
 
 Of course, when the curd is much below 80°, it will not 
 close together, but there is a happy medium. This happy 
 medium varies according to the temperature of the press room. 
 If the room is cold, the curd will cool down. A cheese-maker 
 must have some brains in his head, and use them, for he is more 
 than a mere machine to be wound up and run down. A proper 
 temperature for the press room is about 70°. 
 
 181. COMMON PACKAGES OP CHEESE 
 
 There are four common packages, into which American 
 cheese is pressed, namely, Young Americas, weighing nine or 
 ten pounds, flats and Cheddars, weighing respectively thirty and 
 sixty pounds, and daisies weighing twenty pounds. 
 
 The common diameter of flats or Cheddar cheese is four- 
 teen and a half inches, and a fiat is half the height of a Cheddar. 
 
 There are two kinds of presses used, the gang and the up- 
 right. The upright press has the screws in an upright position, 
 and but one screw to a cheese. The gang press has one hori- 
 zontal screw, which presses anywhere from one to twenty 
 
82 Cheese Making. 
 
 cheese. The hoops (Fraser) are made a httle smaller at the 
 bottom than the top, so that each hoop will fit over the next 
 one in front of it. 
 
 It is sometimes claimed for upright presses that the pressure 
 is kept up better, as there is but one cheese under a screw, but 
 they are hard to keep clean and take up a great deal of room. 
 
 The Sprague automatic adjustable gang press can be ad- 
 justed to fit hoops of different diameters. This press as well as 
 
 upright Press. 
 
 the Helmer is arranged so that a continuous pressure is kept 
 on the cheese. A new factory should certainly be equipped 
 with one of these presses. 
 
 In the Fraser gang hoop, the bandage is held by an iron 
 band, which slips into the top of the hoop. This iron band is 
 called the "bandager." 
 
 In pressing the cheese, the maker should aim to turn out 
 a perfect cheese. He should be an artist, and produce an ob- 
 
Salting and Pressing the Curd. 
 
 83 
 
 ject of beauty. The ends should be square with its height, clean, 
 and the bandage turned down evenly at the ends, and closed 
 well on the sides. 
 
 182. KIND OF BANDAGE USED. 
 
 There are two kinds of bandages used, starched and seam- 
 less. The starched bandage is made from the starched cloth, 
 by the cheese maker. The seamless bandage comes in the form 
 of a long tube, from which the required length for the cheese is 
 cut. But the starched bandage will not let the whey out prop- 
 erly, and consequently the cheese does not close on the sides. 
 The cheese closes much better with the unstarched, seamless 
 bandage. 
 
 Ready-made unstarched bandages of better quahty than the 
 seamless bandage and about the same cost are now in the 
 market. 
 
 The Helmer Patent Continuous Pressure Press. 
 183. HOW THE BANDAGE IS PUT ONTO THE CHEESE. 
 
 When the bandage is put into the hoop, the edge should 
 be turned in evenly, for about an inch and a half on the bottom, 
 and perhaps dampened to hold its place. 
 
 Before putting the bandage in, the bottom cap cloth should 
 be put in. It should be round, and as large as the bottom of the 
 hoop (fourteen and a half inches), and should be soaked in hot 
 water. Square cap cloth'l lap over onto the sides of the cheese, 
 and make bad looking scars. • 
 
 J 84. CHEESE MUST BE THE SAME SIZE. 
 
 Care should be taken to put the same amount of curd into 
 each hoop, so that the cheese will all be the same height. 
 
84 
 
 Cheese Making. 
 
 The hoops should not be filled so full that the cheese comes 
 above the junction between the bandage and the hoop, for in 
 such cases, there will be a Httle ridge left at the junction, which 
 will disfigure the cheese. 
 
 When the curd has been filled into the hoop, the top cap 
 cloth is put on, and the fibrous ring laid around the edge, to 
 keep the curd from pushing out, and then the follower put in. 
 Usually the fibrous ring is tacked onto the follower, and while it 
 
 Pressure block in position in the press. 
 
 may fit well, it quite often happens that it does not ; and the curd 
 will push out at the places where the ring does not come tight 
 against the hoop. There is another point in having the fibrous 
 ring separate from the follower, which will be noticed when we 
 come to it later on. (188.) 
 
 185. TIGHTEN THE PRESS SLOWLY. 
 
 After the hoops have been slipped into place, the screw 
 should be tightened slowly, to let the whey out gradually. A 
 
Salting and Pressing the Curd. 
 
 85 
 
 small stream of brine should be kept flowing. If too great 
 pressure is applied at first, the fat will be forced out. Curd 
 closes together slowly, as will be seen by squeezing it in the 
 hand. If it be squeezed suddenly, and then, the pressure re- 
 leased, it will fall apart, but if pressed up slowly in the hand, it 
 will stick together. The full pressure should not be reached 
 for about fifteen minutes. 
 
 In about an hour, the curd will be pressed together, and 
 then the bandage should be turned down around the top of the 
 cheese. This operation is generally called "dressing" the cheese. 
 
 Eraser Gang Hoop. 
 A, Hoop. B, Bandager. C, Follower. D, Fibrous ring. 
 186. DRESSING THE CHEESE. 
 
 Set the hoops in an upright position, and take out the fol- 
 lowers, cap cloths, and bandagers. Pull the banadage gently, 
 to be sure there are no wrinkles in it, and then trim ofif evenly 
 all around, so that it will lap over onto the end of the cheese 
 about an inch and a half. Soak it down into position with 
 warm water, and put on the cap, after having wrung it out in 
 warm water. Be sure there are no wrinkles in the cap, for they 
 will leave bad looking marks on the rind of the cheese. 
 
 Then put in the bandagers to keep the hoops straight in the 
 press, and the fibrous ring and follower, and close up the press, 
 putting on full pressure. Young Americas, however, will not 
 stand as much pressure, for they do not have as much surface 
 as larg-cr cnee?c. id resist It. 
 
 Wilson Cheese Hoop. 
 
86 Cheese Making. 
 
 187. the wilson hoop. 
 
 Another form of hoop used largely in Ohio is the Wilson 
 hoop here described. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR USING THE WILSON HOOPS. 
 
 Each hoop consists of four pieces, as follows : 
 
 B. The bottom cover, with the widest flange or rim. 
 E. The open wide hoop. 
 
 D. The closed or tight wide hoop. 
 
 C. The top cover with narrow flange or rim. 
 
 First — Place the cover with the widest rim {B) on the 
 ways in the bottom of the press. 
 
 Second — Place the Cap Cloth on the bottom of the cover 
 {B). Said Cap Cloth should be as large as the bottom of the 
 cover. 
 
 Thikd^ — Place within the bottom of cover {A) the open 
 hoop or bandage (£). 
 
 Fourth — Wet one edge of the bandage, adjust with the 
 open hoop and turn the wet edge over the top of the hoop. 
 
 Fifth — Put the closed wide hoop (D) on top of the open 
 one, letting it lap over about one inch, and fasten the hooks 
 which are provided to keep same from slipping down. 
 
 Sixth — Put in the cheese curd as may be desired, for any 
 thickness the cheese are to be made, but always put in enough 
 so that the outer or tight hoop in slipping over the open one 
 when pressing shall not quite be forced down to meet the edge 
 of the lower cover. 
 
 Seventh — Put on the top cover (C), then unfasten the 
 hooks under the handles, then turn the cheese over, placing the 
 top cover up snug against the head of the press. Proceed in 
 the same manner with the balance of the hoops until all are 
 filled, placing the top cover against the bottom of the previous 
 one, etc. Then proceed to pressing. 
 
 Eighth — After pressing as usual, or until the time when 
 the bandage is to be turned in or lapped over the edge of the 
 cheese in order to press the bandage down, it is well to remove 
 the cheese from the hoop, and having turned it over, put it back 
 in the hoop with the other face up, and put to press again. , This 
 will be found to remove any wrinkles that may have formed in 
 the bandage. 
 
Salting and Pressing the Curd. 87 
 
 188. HOW TO GET CHEESE DRY. 
 
 The idea that we make a cheese dry by pressing it is an 
 erroneous one. The whey has to be gotten out of the curd 
 while it is in the vat, and if it is not gotten out there, no amount 
 of squeezing in the press will expel it, and the cheese will get 
 sour. 
 
 If the press is not a continuous pressure one, as is likely 
 the case, the maker should tighten the press the last thing at 
 night, and the first thing in the morning. 
 
 In the morning, the cheese should be taken out of the hoops 
 and examined, to see if they are perfect in shape, and all defects 
 remedied. If the bandage does not stick, the cheese should be 
 washed with warm water, and after being tightened in the press, 
 hot water turned on to warm it up. If the edge of the upper end 
 of the cheese is rough, it should be turned end for end in the 
 hoop. In either case, the fibrous ring should be left out, so that 
 the edge of the cheese will come out on the hoop square. Of 
 course, it must be watched, to see that the cheese does not push 
 out beyond the follower, and its last state be worse than the 
 first; but if the pressure is carefully apphed, a nice square edge 
 can be put onto a cheese in this way, 
 
 189. DO NOT POUND THE HOOPS. 
 
 The cheese should slip out of the hoop with very little 
 pounding. Pounding loosens the rivets, and thereby gets the 
 hoops into bad repair, as well as loosens the bandage on the 
 cheese, and sometimes breaks the cheese. 
 
 Where a knife is used to loosen the cheese, the bandage 
 is also often loosened. If the cheese does not slip out easily, 
 grease the hoops. The hoops should, of course, be kept clean, 
 and if it is necessary to grease them, clean grease can be applied. 
 
 Cheese should never be taken out on the floor, but on a 
 press board. We must remember that cheese is an article of 
 human food. Most people like to have clean food to eat, and 
 we should aim to be just as clean in making the cheese as 
 though the consumers were watching all the time. 
 
 Wipe the cheese ofif with a clean cloth, and then put them 
 on the shelves, marking the date neatly. Cheese with great 
 big marks scrawled over them do not look attractive. 
 
88 Cheese Making. 
 
 190. greasing the cheese. 
 
 As soon as the rind has dried off, it should be greased with 
 regular cheese grease. The practice of skimming the whey after 
 it has fermented and become full of dirt is nothing less than a 
 dirty trick. Good wholesome cheese, prepared for the purpose, 
 can be bought of regular dealers in dairy supplies, and nothing 
 else should be used. 
 
 191. CRACKS IN CHEESE. 
 
 If the cheese is left exposed to the air too long before being 
 greased, it will crack. Another cause of the rind cracking is too 
 much acid in tlie whey. A high acid cheese will, as a rule, crack. 
 A draft of air blowing over the cheese will also cause it to crack. 
 This, of course, is caused by the air absorbing moisture from 
 the rind. We think that, while the question of moisture in the 
 curing of American cheese has gone almost unconsidered, more 
 attention must be paid to this in the future. 
 
 193. CHEESE IN COLD STORAGE. 
 
 Cheese held in cold storage are very likely to mould. 
 Mould works into the cracks, and for this reason buyers do not 
 want cracked cheese. The rinds of high acid cheese, held in cold 
 storage, will also begin to rot at the middle. 
 
 Sometimes the maker leaves the caps, or press cloths, as 
 they are sometimes called, on until a few days before shipping, 
 and then pulls them off and greases the rinds. 
 
 Sometimes salt sacks made out of heavy ducking are used 
 for caps. This leaves a hard but very rough rind, and if the 
 cheese is held in cold storage, and mould grows on it, it is 
 almost impossible to get the mould off, and buyers are strongly 
 opposed to using salt sacks for this purpose. 
 
 193. CLEANING MOULDY CHEESE. 
 
 Cheese that gets mouldy in cold storage is put into a sink 
 of hot water, to which a little ammonia has been added, and 
 scrubbed with a brush. It is put on a shelf to drain and dry, and 
 afterward boxed again. 
 
 J 94. CHEESE CLOTH CIRCLES. 
 
 Sometimes a thin "cap" of cheese cloth, called a "cheese 
 cloth circle," is put onto the end of the cheese. The cheese 
 cloth circle does not go on under the banda.ge where it is turned 
 
Salting and Pressing the Curd, 89 
 
 down on the end, but over it. In using the circles there is no 
 need of cheese grease till the cheese are shipped. The circle is 
 then pulled off and the rind greased. 
 
 The circles make the cheese much cleaner, and buyers gen- 
 erally prefer them, and will pay more money for the cheese, 
 usually an eighth of a cent a pound more. The cost is about 
 one-sixteenth of a cent a pound on flats. Sometimes, by special 
 agreement, buyers want the circles left on the cheese. When 
 the cheese come out of cold storages they are cleaned, the cir- 
 cles being stripped off, leaving a clea.n bright rind, which is 
 greased. 
 
 They should be but twelve or thirteen inches in diameter, 
 as they sometimes do not stick under .the edge where they lap 
 over the bandage. 
 
 195. PRESS CLOTHS. 
 
 The first one is put on inside the "heavy cap" or "press 
 cloth," before the curd is put into the hoop, and the other one 
 is put in when the cheese is "dressed." 
 
 196. KEEP A DAILY RECORD. 
 
 When the cheese is ready to ship it quite often happens 
 that a maker finds something peculiar about a cheese which 
 he wishes to avoid or reproduce in the future, but he does not 
 remember the circumstances connected with the making of that 
 particular cheese. In the best factories a daily record is kept 
 in a book for the purpose of how the milk and curd act. This 
 gives them a history of each cheese, and by its aid the maker is 
 often able to remedy defects and reproduce the better points. 
 
 The following is a blank for the purpose : 
 
 Date 190.. 
 
 Vat used (Number of vat). 
 
 Condition g{ milk, ^^ 
 
 Per cent of fat in milk, "■ 
 
90 Cheese Making. 
 
 Pounds of milk in vat, 
 
 Rennet test for ripeness, 
 
 Temperature set, 
 
 Time set, 
 
 Amount of rennet used, 
 
 Rate of rennet per 1000 pounds of milk. 
 
 Time cut. 
 
 Minutes in curdling. 
 
 Time steam was turned on. 
 
 Time required in raising to degrees, 
 
 Hot iron test when dipped, 
 Time dipped. 
 
 Time from cutting to dipping, 
 Per cent of fat in whey, 
 Time ground, 
 
 Hot iron test when ground, 
 Time salted, 
 
 Amount of salt on curd. 
 Rate of salt per 1000 lbs. of milk, 
 Time put to press, 
 Kind and number of cheese made. 
 Time dressed, 
 Time pressed. 
 Weight of green cheese, 
 
 Average weight of milk per pound of cheese. 
 Highest and lowest temperature of curing room for last twen- 
 ty-four hours. 
 
 Remarks — 
 
 Under the head of remarks, any important thing not in- 
 cluded under the other heads may be noted, such as a gassy 
 curd or washing out the bad flavor, or any way of treatment 
 different from the ordinary way. 
 
 QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER IX. 
 
 1. What are the conditions of a curd when ready to salt? 
 2. What is salt? 3. Where is salt found? 4. What are the 
 impurities in salt, to what extent do they occur, and what are 
 the objections to them? 5. What does salt do to cheese? 6. 
 Wihat is the effect of too much salt? 7. Does salt increase or 
 
Salting and Pressing the Curd. 91 
 
 diminish the weight of cheese, and why ? 8. Should all curds be 
 salted aHke? 9. How should salt be applied to a curd? 10. 
 When is a curd ready to press? 11. What prevents cheese from 
 closing, and what is the remedy? 12. At what temperature 
 should curd be pressed, and why? 13. What are the common 
 packages of cheese? 14. How do upright and gang presses 
 compare? 15. How is the bandage held in the Fraser hoop? 
 16. What are the different kinds of bandage in use? 17. How is 
 the bandage put onto a cheese? 18. How should the cap cloths 
 be cut? 19. How full should a hoop be filled?. 20. How fast 
 should the press be tightened? 21. What is meant by dressing 
 the cheese? 22. Describe the Wilson hoop. 23. How is mois- 
 ture expelled from a cheese? 24. Why should not the hoops 
 be pounded to get the cheese out? 25. Why and with what 
 should cheese be greased? 26. How do high acid cheese behave 
 in cold storage? 27. How can mouldy cheese be cleaned? 28. 
 What is a cheese cloth circle, and how are they put on with 
 reference to the bandage? 29. What is a press cloth? 30. What 
 is the advantage of a daily record? 
 
Chapter X. 
 CURING AND SHIPPING THE CHEESE. 
 
 197. CHANGES IN CURING. 
 
 Wihen cheese is caa.giilated by rennet, the coagulum is 
 called paracasein. In curing it undergoes changes into the fol- 
 lowing products in the order named. Paracasein changes by 
 the action of lactic acid into paracasein-monolactate (lactic- 
 acid-paracasein), para nuclein, caseouses, peptones, amides and 
 ammonia. The first changes are from a substance insoluble in 
 water to substances soluble. These substances do not have 
 much flavor, but as the amides develop the characteristic flavor 
 appears. Dr. Van Slyke has shown by careful chemical analy- 
 ses, extending over a period of 35 weeks, that the rate of the 
 formation of these decomposition products is dependent upon 
 the temperature. 
 
 198. CURING AT DIFFERENT TEMPERATURES. 
 
 Cheese will cure slowly at low temperatures and be of fine 
 flavor a,nd texture. At the Wisconsin Experimental Station a 
 cheese was kept at a temperature of 15° F., and was found to 
 have cured perfectly and to be of a very fine quality, with the 
 exception that the freezing had made the texture crumbly. As 
 the temperature is raised the cheese cures faster. At 60° to 65° 
 the most rapid curing takes place at which a good cheese can be 
 obtained. A temperature of 70"^' for any protracted length of 
 time will injure the texture and flavor, while a temperature of 
 80° will spoil the best kind of a cheese. 
 
 199. CURING SHELVES, HOW MADE. 
 
 The cheese should be cured on shelves made of good clear 
 pine, an inch and a half thick by sixteen inches wide, supported 
 every four feet. The point in having the lumber clear is that 
 sap and pitch will be in the knots and color the rinds. The 
 boards should be wider than the cheese, for if the cheese pro- 
 jects over the edge a mark will be left on the face of the cheese. 
 The board ought to be heavy and the supports close together 
 in order to prevent sagging, which might make the cheese, 
 especially Cheddars, crooked. The cheese should be turned 
 
 92 
 
Curing and Shipping the Cheese. 93 
 
 every day, and the shelves wiped with a clea.n cloth. Pains 
 should be taken not to soil the cheese not break the corners in 
 turning- them. 
 
 200. ARRANGEMEi\T OF CHEESE. 
 
 The older cheese should be kept on the lower shelves, and 
 the younger ones on the upper shelves, because of the differ- 
 ence in temperature between the upper and lower portions of 
 the room. The upper shelves being warmer, the younger will 
 cure faster and the month's make of cheese will be evener than 
 if this rule were not followed. 
 
 Hygroiiiclcr ui llygiuscope. 
 
 201. MOISTURE IN THE CURING ROOM. 
 
 A matter that has not received its proper attention with 
 American or Cheddar cheese is the humidity of the air in the 
 curing room. There are two instruments for measuring the 
 humidity — the hyg-roscope and psychrometer. 
 
 202. THE HYGROSCOPE. 
 
 The hygroscope is an instrument consisting of a coil of ma- 
 terial very sensitive to moisture. As it takes up from or gives 
 off water to the atmosphere the coil moves a hand around a dial 
 which shows the per cent of saturation. 
 
 203. THE PSYCHROMETER. 
 
 The psychrometer consists of two accurate thermometers. 
 On the bulb of one is a wick which dips in a cup of distilled 
 
94 
 
 Cheese Making. 
 
 water. When the air is saturated it has all the water it will 
 hold. If the air is not saturated water will evaporate from the 
 wick, and the dryer the air the greater the evaporation. As 
 the water passes from around the bulb into the air it lowers the 
 temperature. The United States Weather Bureau has prepared 
 a table of readings with the corresponding humidity. The fol- 
 lowing is such a table for use in a curing room. 
 
 The thermometer should be fanned briskly with a good fan 
 for three minutes, and then the leading taken quickly. We first 
 find the dry bulb reading on the chart and then find the wet bulb 
 
 reading in the next column, and in the third column, opposite 
 the dry bulb reading, is the relative humidity, or per cent of sat- 
 uration, by which we mean the per cent of water the air is capa- 
 ble, of holding at that temperature. 
 
 The psychrometer is not as handy as the hygrometer, but is 
 considered to be more reliable. 
 
Curing and Shipping the Cheese. 
 
 95 
 
 Table Showing the Relative Humidity in the Air of Curing 
 Rooms. (King.) 
 
 Directions. — Notice that the table is in three column sections. Find 
 air temperature in first column, then find wet bulb temperature in second 
 column, same division. In third column opposite this is relative humidity. 
 
 Example. — Air temperature is 50°, in first column; wet bulb is 44°, in 
 second column, same division. Opposite 44° is 61, which is the per cent 
 of saturation, or the relative humidity of the air. 
 
 ji 
 
 ^ 
 
 g 
 
 ^ 
 
 J3 
 
 g 
 
 J3 
 
 ;2 
 
 i 
 
 i ^ 
 
 J3 
 
 B 
 
 ■3 
 
 "3 
 
 3 
 
 •g 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 "3 
 
 3 
 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 pq 
 
 m 
 
 a 
 
 w 
 
 CQ 
 
 ffi 
 
 M 
 
 CQ 
 
 X 
 
 M 
 
 CQ 
 
 X 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 a 
 
 >• 
 Q 
 
 ^ 
 
 K 
 
 h 
 
 ^ 
 
 K 
 
 S 
 
 1 
 
 ■3 
 
 
 32 
 
 37 
 
 
 36 
 
 48 
 
 
 37 
 
 38 
 
 48 
 
 47 
 
 93 
 
 
 33 
 34 
 
 44 
 52 
 
 
 37 
 38 
 
 55 
 62 
 
 
 38 
 39 
 
 45 
 51 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 40 
 
 35 
 
 59 
 
 43 
 
 39 
 
 70 
 
 
 40 
 
 58 
 
 
 38 
 
 30 
 
 36 
 
 68 
 
 
 40 
 
 77 
 
 46 
 
 41 
 
 65 
 
 
 39 
 
 36 
 
 
 37 
 
 76 
 
 
 41 
 
 85 
 
 
 42 
 
 72 
 
 
 40 
 
 42 
 
 
 38 
 
 84 
 
 
 42 
 
 92 
 
 
 43 
 
 79 
 
 
 41 
 
 48 
 
 
 39 
 
 92 
 
 
 
 
 
 44 
 
 85 
 
 
 42 
 
 54 
 
 
 
 
 
 34 
 35 
 
 29 
 36 
 
 
 45 
 
 93 
 
 49 
 
 43 
 44 
 45 
 
 60 
 
 
 32 
 
 31 
 
 67 
 
 
 
 
 
 73 
 
 
 33 
 
 38 
 
 
 36 
 
 43 
 
 
 36 
 
 28 
 
 
 46 
 
 80 
 
 
 34 
 
 46 
 
 
 37 
 
 49 
 
 
 37 
 
 34 
 
 
 47 
 
 86 
 
 
 35 
 
 53 
 
 44 
 
 38 
 
 56 
 
 
 38 
 
 40 
 
 
 48 
 
 93 
 
 41 
 
 36 
 37 
 
 60 
 68 
 
 39 
 40 
 
 63 
 70 
 
 
 39 
 40 
 
 46 
 52 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 38 
 
 76 
 
 
 41 
 
 78 
 
 47 
 
 41 
 
 59 
 
 
 39 
 
 32 
 
 
 39 
 
 84 
 
 
 42 
 
 85 
 
 
 42 
 
 66 
 
 
 40 
 
 37 
 
 
 40 
 
 92 
 
 
 43 
 
 92 
 
 
 43 
 44 
 45 
 46 
 
 72 
 79 
 86 
 93 
 
 50 
 
 41 
 42 
 43 
 44 
 
 43 
 49 
 
 
 33 
 
 33 
 
 
 35 
 
 31 
 
 55 
 61 
 
 
 34 
 
 40 
 
 
 36 
 
 37 
 
 
 
 45 
 
 67 
 
 
 35 
 36 
 
 47 
 
 
 37 
 38 
 
 44 
 50 
 
 
 
 
 
 46 
 
 74 
 80 
 
 
 54 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 47 
 
 42 
 
 37 
 
 61 
 
 45 
 
 39 
 
 57 
 
 
 37 
 
 29 
 
 
 48 
 
 87 
 
 
 38 
 
 69 
 
 40 
 
 64 
 
 
 38 
 
 35 
 
 
 49 
 
 93. 
 
 
 39 
 40 
 
 77 
 84 
 
 
 41 
 42 
 
 71 
 78 
 
 
 39 
 40 
 
 41 
 47 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 41 
 
 92 
 
 
 43 
 
 85 
 
 48 
 
 41 
 
 53 
 
 
 40 
 
 33 
 
 
 
 
 
 44 
 
 92 
 
 42 
 43 
 
 60 
 66 
 
 51 
 
 41 
 42 
 
 39 
 
 
 
 
 45 
 
 
 33 
 
 28 
 
 
 
 
 
 44 
 
 73 
 
 43 
 
 50 
 
 43 
 
 34 
 
 34 
 
 46 
 
 35 
 
 26 
 
 
 45 
 
 79 
 
 
 44 
 
 56 
 
 
 35 
 
 41 
 
 36 
 
 32 
 
 
 46 
 
 86 
 
 
 45 
 
 62 
 
Cheese Making. 
 
 HUMIDITY IN THE AIR OF CURING ROOM-Continued. 
 
 ^ 
 
 _^ 
 
 B 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 i 
 
 J3 
 
 XI 
 
 B 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 g 
 
 1 
 
 ■3 
 
 3 
 
 •g 
 
 "3 
 
 Ti 
 
 3 
 
 "3 
 
 si 
 
 "3 
 
 "3 
 
 3 
 
 pq 
 
 K 
 
 PQ 
 
 CQ 
 
 X 
 
 CQ 
 
 « 
 
 X 
 
 fQ 
 
 n 
 
 X 
 
 t 
 
 [? 
 
 M 
 
 t 
 
 "S 
 
 ■3 
 
 >• 
 
 t 
 
 ■3 
 
 t 
 
 « 
 
 "3 
 
 Q 
 
 ^ 
 
 K 
 
 Q 
 
 ^ 
 
 K 
 
 Q 
 
 ^ 
 
 K 
 
 a 
 
 ^ 
 
 « 
 
 
 46 
 
 68 
 
 
 48 
 
 59 
 
 
 49 
 
 47 
 
 
 51 
 
 42 
 
 
 47 
 
 74 
 
 
 49 
 
 65 
 
 
 50 
 
 52 
 
 
 52 
 
 46 
 
 51 
 
 48 
 
 81 
 
 
 50 
 
 70 
 
 
 51 
 
 57 
 
 
 53 
 
 51 
 
 
 49 
 
 87 
 
 55 
 
 '51 
 
 76 
 
 
 52 
 
 62 
 
 
 54 
 
 55 
 
 
 50 
 
 93 
 
 
 52 
 
 82 
 
 59 
 
 53 
 
 67 
 
 
 55 
 
 60 
 
 
 
 
 
 53 
 54 
 
 88 
 94 
 
 ■ 54 
 55 
 
 72 
 78 
 
 63 
 
 56 
 57 
 
 64 
 
 
 
 
 69 
 
 
 41 
 42 
 
 35 
 40 
 
 
 
 
 
 56 
 
 57 
 
 83 
 89 
 
 
 58 
 59 
 
 74 
 
 
 
 
 
 79 
 
 
 43 
 
 46 
 
 
 44 
 
 34 
 
 
 58 
 
 94 
 
 
 60 
 
 84 
 
 
 44 
 45 
 
 51 
 57 
 
 
 45 
 46 
 
 39 
 
 44 
 
 
 
 
 
 61 
 62 
 
 89 
 
 
 
 
 
 95 
 
 52 
 
 46 
 47 
 
 63 
 69 
 
 
 47 
 48 
 
 It 
 
 
 48 
 49 
 
 39 
 44 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 48 
 
 75 
 
 56 
 
 49 
 
 60 
 
 
 50 
 
 48 
 
 
 52 
 
 43 
 
 
 49 
 
 81 
 
 50 
 
 65 
 
 
 51 
 
 53 
 
 
 53 
 
 47 
 
 
 50 
 
 87 
 
 
 51 
 
 71 
 
 
 52 
 
 58 
 
 
 54 
 
 51 
 
 
 51 
 
 94 
 
 
 52 
 
 77 
 
 
 53 
 
 63 
 
 
 55 
 
 56 
 
 
 
 
 
 53 
 54 
 
 82 
 88 
 
 60 
 
 54 
 55 
 
 68 
 73 
 
 
 l^ 
 
 60 
 
 
 
 
 
 65 
 
 
 41 
 
 31 
 
 
 55 
 
 94 
 
 
 56 
 
 78 
 
 64 
 
 58 
 
 70 
 
 
 42 
 43 
 
 36 
 41 
 
 
 
 
 
 57 
 58 
 
 84 
 89 
 
 
 59 
 60 
 
 74 
 
 
 
 
 
 79 
 
 
 44 
 
 47 
 
 
 45 
 
 36 
 
 
 59 
 
 94 
 
 
 61 
 
 85 
 
 
 45 
 
 52 
 
 
 46 
 
 40 
 45 
 
 
 
 
 
 62 
 
 90 
 
 53 
 
 46 
 
 58 
 
 
 47 
 
 
 
 
 
 63 
 
 95 
 
 47 
 
 63 
 
 
 48 
 
 50 
 
 55 
 
 
 49 
 
 40 
 
 
 
 
 
 48 
 
 69 
 
 
 49 
 
 
 50 
 
 44 
 
 
 
 
 
 49 
 
 75 
 
 57 
 
 50 
 
 61 
 
 
 51 
 
 49 
 
 
 53 
 
 44 
 
 
 50 
 
 11 
 
 
 51 
 
 66 
 
 
 52 
 
 54 
 
 
 54 
 
 48 
 
 
 51 
 
 87 
 
 
 52 
 
 71 
 
 
 53 
 
 58 
 
 
 55 
 
 52 
 
 
 52 
 
 94 
 
 
 53 
 
 54 
 
 77 
 83 
 
 61 
 
 54 
 55 
 56 
 57 
 58 
 
 63 
 68 
 73 
 78 
 84 
 
 
 56 
 57 
 58 
 59 
 60 
 
 56 
 61 
 65 
 70 
 75 
 
 
 42 
 43 
 44- 
 
 32 
 37 
 42 
 
 
 55 
 56 
 
 88 
 94 
 
 
 65 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 45 
 
 48 
 
 
 46 
 
 37 
 
 
 59 
 
 89 
 
 
 61 
 
 80 
 
 
 46 
 
 53 
 
 
 47 
 
 42 
 
 
 60 
 
 94 
 
 
 62 
 
 85 
 
 
 47 
 48 
 
 59 
 64 
 
 
 48 
 49 
 
 46 
 51 
 
 
 
 
 
 63 
 64 
 
 90 
 
 54 
 
 
 
 
 95 
 
 
 49 
 
 70 
 
 
 50 
 
 56 
 
 
 50 
 
 41 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 50 
 
 76 
 
 
 51 
 
 61 
 
 
 51 
 
 45 
 
 
 
 
 
 51 
 
 82 
 
 58 
 
 52 
 
 67 
 
 
 52 
 
 50 
 
 
 53 
 
 40 
 
 
 52 
 
 88 
 
 
 53 
 
 72 
 
 
 53 
 
 54 
 
 
 54 ~ 
 
 45 
 
 
 53 
 
 94 
 
 
 54 
 
 78 
 
 
 54 
 
 59 
 
 
 55 
 
 49 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 
 56 
 
 83 
 89 
 
 62 
 
 55 
 56 
 
 64 
 69 
 
 66 
 
 56 
 57 
 
 53 
 
 
 
 
 57 
 
 
 43 
 
 33 
 
 
 57 
 
 94 
 
 
 57 
 
 74 
 
 58 
 
 61 
 
 
 44 
 45 
 
 38 
 43 
 
 
 
 
 
 58 
 59 
 
 79 
 84 
 
 
 59 
 60 
 
 66 
 
 55 
 
 
 
 
 71 
 
 
 46 
 
 49 
 
 59 
 
 47 
 
 38 
 
 
 60 
 
 89 
 
 
 61 
 
 75 
 
 
 47 
 
 54 
 
 48 
 
 43 
 
 
 61 
 
 95 
 
 
 62 
 
 80 
 
Curing and Shipping the Cheese. 
 
 HUMIDITY IN the AIR OF CURING ROOM— Concluded. 
 
 97 
 
 _^ 
 
 J3 
 
 e 
 
 £ 
 
 £ 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 £ 
 
 g 
 
 .d 
 
 ji 
 
 g 
 
 ■a 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 "3 
 
 
 a 
 
 ■a 
 
 "3 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 •a 
 
 § 
 
 PQ 
 
 n 
 
 K 
 
 m 
 
 n 
 
 X 
 
 PQ 
 
 CQ 
 
 K 
 
 pq 
 
 PQ 
 
 X 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 W 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 « 
 
 t 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 S 
 
 ^ 
 
 t 
 
 
 63 
 
 85 
 
 
 61 
 
 60 
 
 73 
 
 72 
 
 95 
 
 
 70 
 
 71 
 
 66 
 
 64 
 65 
 
 90 
 95 
 
 
 62 
 63 
 
 64 
 68 
 
 
 
 
 
 71 
 
 72 
 
 74 
 
 
 
 
 
 78 
 
 
 
 
 70 
 
 64 
 65 
 
 72 
 77 
 
 
 61 
 62 
 
 47 
 50 
 
 77 
 
 73 
 74 
 
 83 
 
 
 
 
 87 
 
 
 54 
 
 41 
 
 
 66 
 
 81 
 
 
 63 
 
 54 
 
 
 75 
 
 91 
 
 
 55 
 
 45 
 
 
 67 
 
 86 
 
 
 64 
 
 58 
 
 
 76 
 
 95 
 
 
 56 
 
 49 
 
 
 68 
 
 90 
 
 
 65 
 
 62 
 
 
 
 
 
 57 
 
 53 
 
 
 69 
 
 95 
 
 
 66 
 
 66 
 
 
 
 
 
 58 
 59 
 
 58 
 62 
 
 
 
 
 74 
 
 67 
 68 
 
 70 
 
 74 
 
 
 65 
 66 
 
 49 
 
 
 
 
 
 53 
 
 67 
 
 60 
 
 66 
 
 
 58 
 
 45 
 
 
 69 
 
 78 
 
 
 67 
 
 56 
 
 
 61 
 
 71 
 
 
 59 
 
 48 
 
 
 70 
 
 82 
 
 
 68 
 
 60 
 
 
 62 
 
 76 
 
 
 60 
 
 52 
 
 
 71 
 
 86 
 
 
 69 
 
 63 
 
 
 63 
 
 80 
 
 
 61 
 
 56 
 
 
 72 
 
 91 
 
 78 
 
 70 
 
 67 
 
 
 64 
 
 85 
 
 
 62 
 
 60 
 
 
 73 
 
 95 
 
 71 
 
 71 
 
 
 65 
 
 90 
 
 
 63 
 
 64 
 
 
 
 
 
 72 
 
 75 
 
 
 66 
 
 95 
 
 71 
 
 64 
 65 
 66 
 67 
 68 
 69 
 70 
 
 68 
 72 
 77 
 81 
 86 
 91 
 95 
 
 
 62 
 63 
 64 
 65 
 
 47 
 51 
 55 
 58 
 
 
 73 
 74 
 75 
 76 
 
 79 
 83 
 87 
 91 
 
 
 55 
 56 
 
 42 
 46 
 
 
 57 
 
 50 
 
 
 
 66 
 
 62 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 58 
 59 
 
 54 
 58 
 
 
 75 
 
 67 
 68 
 
 66 
 70 
 
 
 66 
 67 
 
 50 
 53 
 
 
 60 
 
 63 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 69 
 
 74 
 
 
 68 
 
 
 
 
 
 57 
 
 68 
 
 61 
 
 67 
 
 
 59 
 
 45 
 
 
 70 
 
 78 
 
 
 69 
 
 60 
 
 
 62 
 
 71 
 
 
 60 
 
 49 
 
 
 71 
 
 82 
 
 
 70 
 
 64 
 
 
 63 
 
 76 
 
 
 61 
 
 53 
 
 
 72 
 
 87 
 
 
 71 
 
 68 
 
 
 64 
 
 81 
 
 
 62 
 
 57 
 
 
 73 
 
 91 
 
 79 
 
 72 
 
 71 
 
 
 65 
 
 85 
 
 
 63 
 
 61 
 
 
 74 
 
 95 
 
 
 73 
 
 75 
 
 
 66 
 
 90 
 
 
 64 
 
 65 
 66 
 
 65 
 69 
 
 73 
 
 
 
 
 
 74 
 75 
 76 
 
 79 
 
 83 
 87 
 
 
 67 
 
 95 
 
 72 
 
 
 63 
 
 48 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 64 
 
 52 
 
 
 
 56 
 
 43 
 
 
 67 
 
 77 
 
 
 65 
 
 55 
 
 
 77 
 
 91 
 
 
 57 
 58 
 
 47 
 51 
 
 
 68 
 69 
 
 82 
 86 
 
 
 66 
 67 
 
 59 
 63 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 59 
 
 55 
 
 
 70 
 
 91 
 
 
 68 
 
 66 
 
 
 66 
 
 47 
 
 
 60 
 61 
 
 59 
 63 
 
 
 71 
 
 95 
 
 76 
 
 69 
 
 70 
 
 70 
 
 74 
 
 
 67 
 68 
 
 51 
 
 54 
 
 69 
 
 62 
 63 
 64 
 65 
 66 
 67 
 68 
 
 67 
 72 
 76 
 81 
 86 
 90 
 95 
 
 73 
 
 60 
 61 
 62 
 63 
 64 
 65 
 66 
 67 
 
 46 
 50 
 53 
 57 
 61 
 65 
 69 
 73 
 
 
 71 
 
 72 
 73 
 
 74 
 
 75 
 
 78 
 82 
 87 
 91 
 95 
 
 80 
 
 69 
 70 
 71 
 
 72 
 73 
 74 
 75 
 76 
 77 
 
 57 
 61 
 64 
 68 
 72 
 75 
 
 
 
 64 
 65 
 
 49 
 52 
 
 79 
 83 
 
 
 
 
 87 
 
 
 57 
 
 44 
 
 
 68 
 
 78 
 
 77 
 
 66 
 
 56 
 
 
 78 
 
 92 
 
 70 
 
 58 
 
 48 
 
 
 69 
 
 82 
 
 67 
 
 60 
 
 79 
 
 96 
 
 59 
 
 52 
 
 1 
 
 70 
 
 86 
 
 
 68 
 
 63 
 
 
 
 
 60 
 
 55 
 
 
 71 
 
 91 
 
 69 1 
 
 67 
 
 • 
 
 
98 Cheese Making. 
 
 204. condition op the curing room air. 
 
 The air should have as much moisture in it as it will hold 
 without moulding- the cheese. Cheese will stand a good deal if 
 the air is kept moving, perhaps as high as ninety per cent. If 
 kept between sixty and seventy per cent it is very fair, but the 
 instruments show that it often gets down to twenty or thirty 
 per cent and the cheese dry out rapidly and crack. 
 
 205. SUPPLYING MOISTURE. 
 
 Moisture can be supplied by sprinkling the floor, or T^etter 
 still, by hanging up wet sheets that are constantly supplied with 
 water. 
 
 To supply a curing room of five thousand cubic feet ca- 
 pacity, at least three cloths thirty inches wide by twelve feet 
 long are needed. These cloths cannot be supplied from a tank 
 by means of wicks, but if there is plenty of running water a pipe 
 with fine holes drilled on the upper side might be arranged to 
 hang the cloths on and water run through the pipe would keep 
 the cloths saturated. A gutter at the bottom would carry ofif 
 the surplus water. 
 
 After a while the cloths will get stiff from sediment from 
 the w.a.ter. ^ They should then be boiled in water to which a 
 little hydrochloric acid has been added. Do not use enough 
 acid to injure the cloth. 
 
 SHIPPING THE CHEESE. 
 206. SHRINKAGE IN CURING. 
 
 Loss of weight in curing is due to the evaporation of the 
 water of the cheese and to* chemical changes. The factors 
 aflfecting the^ rate of loss in curing are : 
 
 1. Temperature of curing room. 
 
 2. Relative humidity of the air of the curing room. 
 
 3. Size and form of cheese. 
 
 4. Moisture content of cheese. 
 
 5. -Protection to surfa.ce of cheese. 
 
Curing and Shipping the Cheese. 99 
 
 The following table taken from Bulletin 234 of the Geneva 
 Experiment Station shows both the effect of size of cheese and 
 temperature of room on shrinkage : 
 
 PER CENT. OF LOSS IN TWENTY WEEKS. 
 
 Weight of 
 Cheese. 
 
 40 degrees. 
 
 50 degrees. 
 
 60 degrees. 
 
 70 lbs. 
 
 45 lbs. 
 
 35 lbs. 
 
 12>^ lbs. 
 
 2.5 
 2.7 
 3.9 
 4.6 
 
 2.4 
 3.7 
 5.9 
 8.1 
 
 4.2 
 
 5.1 
 
 8.5 
 
 12.0 
 
 The low temperature cheese was better in texture and 
 milder in flavor than the cheese cured at higher temperatures 
 and the low temperatures therefore returned more money, as 
 shown in the following table: 
 
 SHRINKAGE IN TWENTY WEEKS. 
 
 Temperature. 
 
 Per cent, of 
 Shrinkage. 
 
 Scores of 
 Cheese. 
 
 Value of 100 
 pounds at 10c 
 per ponnd. 
 
 40 degrees. 
 50 degrees. 
 60 degrees. 
 
 3.8 
 4.8 
 7.8 
 
 95.7 
 94.2 
 91.7 
 
 $9.62 
 9.52 
 9.22 
 
 At the end of twenty weeks the cheese cured at 40° F. was 
 worth 22>4 cents more per 100 pounds than that cured at 50° F., 
 and 60 cents more than that cured at 60° F. 
 
 Cheese Factory at Chimney Rock, Wisconsin. The cheese is not cured at the factory 
 but is shipped twice a week to a central curing room at La Crosse. 
 
 207. CEJVTRAL CURING ROOMS. 
 
 It seems that central curing rooms will be the most eco- 
 nomical method of handling cheese. A small building con- 
 taining the machinery for making cheese can be erected at little 
 
100 Cheese Making. 
 
 expense. Once or twice a week the cheese from a number 
 such making rooms can be transferred to the central curing 
 room which can be a more elaborate affair — very likely cooled 
 by artificial refrigeration. It will reduce the labor at the make 
 rooms vdry materially and an expert can spend his time in the 
 curing work. 
 
 The quality of cheese is not only enhanced at low tempera- 
 tures but the life of usefulness of the cheese is greatly extended. 
 
 Combining the improved quality and increased quantity of 
 the cheese cured at 40° for twenty weeks over that cured at 60° 
 for the same length of time according to Dr. Van Slyke the 
 saving will be $1.08 per 100 pounds of cheese. For a factory 
 receiving 5,000 pounds of milk per day this would mean $5.40 
 per day. For ten such factories $54 per day. Considering the 
 decreased cost of handling at the make rooms and the smaller 
 cost of one good curing building in the place of ten it is quite 
 evident that the central curing room is the most economical 
 way of curing cheese. 
 
 208. PARAFFINING CUBBSE:. 
 
 Evaporation of moisture from the cheese can be prevented 
 by applying a coat of paraffine which is practically impervious 
 to moisture. If applied at a temperature of at least 200° F. the 
 cheese will remain bright, as the mold spores are killed at that 
 temperature and the parafifine adheres firmly to the surface of 
 the cheese. Applied hot less parafifine is necessary, thus re- 
 ducing the expense of coating. 
 
 The vat in which the parafifine is melted is similar to a 
 cheese vat but much smaller. A partition three inches from 
 one end does not reach quite to the bottom ; the large cakes of 
 parafifine are slipped behind this when introduced to the vat. 
 The parafifine is colored a light yellow with a little cheese or 
 butter color. A frame for holding the cheese hangs above the 
 vat and is counterbalanced by a weight hanging over pulleys. 
 The cheese is placed in the frame over the vat and then im- 
 mersed for a few seconds in the hot parafifine. Then it is allowed 
 to hang for a few minutes to harden sufficiently to handle. 
 
 Dr. Van Slyke makes the following statement regarding 
 parafifine in Bulletin 234 of the Geneva Experiment Station. 
 
 "At the end of seventeen weeks, cheese covered with 
 paraffine had lost only .3 pounds for 100 pounds of cheese placed 
 
CuRiNX. Axi) SiiiPi'iXG TH1-: Chei-:si-: 
 
 101 
 
 in sioragc at in i'"., .5 pounds at oO" F., and l.t pounds at (iO F. 
 The saving thus effected, based on the uniform price of cheese 
 at 10 cents per pcjund, would average about 35 cents for 100 
 pounds of cheese cured at 40^ F., 43 cents at 50' F. and Gl cents 
 
 Paraffiniim cheese in the 
 
 - oiiJ dii Lac. Wi 
 
 at GO" F. ; or comparing cheese kept at 40" F. covered with 
 paraffine, with cheese cured at GO^ F. not so covered, there 
 would be a difference of 75 cents an hundred in favor of the 
 paraffined cheese." 
 
 The objection has been made that hy paraffming cheese 
 water is being sold for cheese which is a fraud. Dr. \ an Slyke 
 answers the objection by saying that it is retaining not an excess 
 of moisture but the moisture that ought to be kepi in the 
 cheese. The English trade has objected to coated cheese and 
 Canadian makers are conservative alxnit adopting the im-lliod. 
 Some factories have adoi)ted the method of coating green 
 cheese fresh from the hoop. S<ime Wisconsin dealers have had 
 trouble with some such cheese turning sour and going off flavor, 
 ^fost wholesale houses are jjaraffining all clu-ese received, but 
 
102 Cheese Making. 
 
 this is usually two or three weeks old. The cheese-maker 
 should be careful about paraffining cheese too green. 
 
 ::oy. CIIEESK, HOW BOXED. 
 
 Young Americas are shipped four, Chcildars one, and flats 
 generally two, in a box. 
 
 Where Mats are shipped iwu in a box they are placed one 
 on top of the other, and are in that case termed "twins." When 
 shipped one in a box they are called "singles." 
 
 •^lO. SCALE BOARDS. 
 
 That the rinds of the cheese may be well protected "scale 
 boards," or very thin basswood or whitewood boards, are 
 placed in the box. Two or three are placed on each end of the 
 box, and two or three between twins. This number is more 
 than is generally used, but cheese in this wa\- keep better when 
 placed in cold storage, if Hats are put ttjgether without scale 
 boards, and left for any great length of lime, they will stick 
 together so tight that they can with difficulty be pulled apart. 
 The rinds sweat and are easily broken. They therefore need 
 plenty of scale boards. The boxes should be trinnned to one- 
 eighth of an inch less than the height of the cheese, so that it 
 will hold its place and arrive in market in good condition. They 
 should not be more than a quarter of an inch larger in diameter 
 than the cheese ; if there is too much room in the box the cheese 
 will be likely to roll around and break the box. ( Jn the other 
 hand, the box should not be so tight that the clu-ese will stick 
 in it. 
 
 Iloxes that are split or poorly nailed should be thrown 
 aside, for they will be sure to arrive in the market in a dilapi- 
 dated condition. Cheese makers do not realize that boxes tliat 
 may l)e in fair condition may be entirely useless al the other end 
 of the journey. 
 
 211. HOW rilElOSE AUE UEKillEO. 
 
 In weighing cheese nothing l)ut full pounds are counted. 
 For instance, if the weight is 60-'''4 pounds, it is counted but 
 GO, or if the beam barely rises at (il pounds, it is counted but fiO, 
 frir in coiu'se of transp< irtation it would lil<ely lose weight and 
 be cut down when it is in the hands of tiie buyer. In the large 
 warehouses, where hundreds of boxes arrive in a single day. 
 thev cannot stop to weigh every box, but weigh a few boxes. 
 
Curing and Shipping the Cheese. 103 
 
 and if they fall short the whole lot is docked accordingly. Such 
 weighings are referred to an official weighmaster. 
 
 212. MARKING OP WEIGHTS. 
 
 The weight should be stenciled, or plainly marked, on the 
 box (not the cover) next to the seam, where it can readily be 
 found. A lead pencil hardly makes a sufficiently plain mark on 
 a cheese box. The brand of the firm to whom the cheese is 
 shipped should be stenciled on the other side of the box. 
 
 213. BUYER'S STENCIL. 
 
 The buyer generally furnishes a stencil for this purpose. 
 Each stencil, so issued to a shipper, has a distinguishing number 
 on it, which is recorded in the buyer's office, and by referring 
 to the number he can tell who shipped the cheese. This is 
 especially necessary where several factories make up a car load 
 of cheese for a firm. 
 
 If a cheese-maker has any cheese tha.t is not first-class he 
 should put a distinguishing mark on such and notify the buyer 
 to that eflfect, and the buyer will usually deal fairly with him, for 
 he understands that the maker is not trying to take advantage 
 of him. 
 
 214. HOW TO SELL CHEESE. 
 
 Cheese is sold mostly on the dairy boards of trade. The 
 buyer, after he bargains for the cheese, should be required to 
 inspect the cheese at the factory and accept or reject it. He 
 should then give a draft on a local bank, for the amount. The 
 bank then draws on the firm for the amount, at the place of 
 business of the firm, and the cheese belongs to the bank till the 
 draft is honored. This is a strictly cash basis, and is fair to both 
 parties. When the cheese is hauled to the depot the boxes 
 should be covered with blankets to protect it from the dust and 
 the hot rays of the sun. 
 
 QUESTIONS on CHAPTER X. 
 
 1. What is the curing process in cheese? 2. At what tem- 
 perature should cheese be cured? 3. What has been learned 
 by experiments in curing cheese from the same lot of milk at 
 different temperatures? 4. How should the curing shelves be 
 made? 5. How should the cheese be arranged on the shelves? 
 
104 Cheese Making. 
 
 6. What two instruments are used for measuring the humidity 
 of the atmosphere, and what can be said as to their accuracy? 
 
 7. What precautions should be taken in reading the psychrome- 
 ter? 8. What is meant by relative humidity, or per cent of 
 saturation? 9. What should be the relative humidity of the 
 curing room? 10. How may moisture be supplied to a room 
 artificially? 11. How much cloth surface is required for a 
 room containing five thousand cubic feet of space? 12. How 
 should cheese be boxed? 13. What are scale boards and how 
 should they be used? 14. How should cheese be weighed? 
 
 15. How and where should the weights be marked on the box? 
 
 16. Wliat five factors affect shrinkage in curing? 17. What 
 are the advantages of low temperature curing? 18. What are 
 the advantages of central curing rooms ? 19. What is the pur- 
 pose of paraffining cheese? 20. At what temperature should 
 pa.rafHne be applied? 21. How does the shrinkage between 
 paraffined and unparaf^ined cheese compare? 22. What are 
 the objections to parafTfining? 
 
Chapter XL 
 JUDGING CHEESE. 
 
 215. IDEAI. CHEESE. 
 
 One trouble that cheese-makers meet with is, that they do 
 not have the proper idea, of a perfect cheese in their minds. This 
 arises largely from the circumstances under which they are 
 placed. The cheese are shipped out of the factory as soon as 
 the buyer will take them, the youngest being but a week or ten 
 days old. The cheese may have defects, but the maker does not 
 get a chance to see how it will turn out. 
 
 Cheese exhibited at the Wisconsin Dairymen's Convention 
 
 is scored according to the following scale : 
 
 Flavor 50 
 
 Texture 30 
 
 Salt 10 
 
 Color 10 
 
 Total 100 
 
 i 
 
 To try a cheese, a plug is pulled from it by means of a 
 cheese trier. The trier should be thin, round and a little taper- 
 ing, so that it will pull a round smooth plug. A plug should 
 always be taken from the top of the cheese. Never plug it 
 through the bandage. 
 
 216. FLAVOR. 
 
 Flavor is the most important item in the quality of a cheese. 
 No matter how good the other points may be, if the flavor is 
 bad, the cheese will be condemned. It would be a difficult mat- 
 ter to describe accurately just what the flavor should be like, for 
 
 105 
 
106 Cheese Making. 
 
 there are different flavors in cheese, which may be equally 
 good. This comes about from the different ferments in the 
 cheese which we cannot as yet entirely control. In another five 
 years, bacteriological research will probably overcome this diffi- 
 culty for us. 
 
 The old saying that "the proof of the pudding is in the eat- 
 ing of it," is true "of cheese. If it tastes good and we want more 
 of it, it is just the flavor we should have. It should not be 
 sharp so that it will bite the tongue, but of a mild lasting taste. 
 A great many cheese, in which the flavor cannot be termed bad, 
 are still on the negative side ; they do not h'ave that fine lasting 
 aroma, although we can eat them quite agreeably, but do not 
 feel that it is a matter of very great importance, whether we 
 can have more of the same or not. 
 
 Where experts are judging cheese, they seldom taste of any. 
 They get the flavor simply by the smell, for if they tasted of 
 every plug they would soon be confused as to flavor. 
 
 If a cheese is cold, it should first be warmed up in the 
 fingers, before looking for the flavor. 
 
 217. TEXTURE. 
 
 While flavor stands first in importance, the texture of a 
 cheese comes next. The plug should be smooth, not fuzzy. If 
 the cheese is not fully cured the plug should bend a little before 
 breaking. When held between the eye and the light it should be 
 slightly translucent. If the light does not come through it, it is 
 a sign that the texture has been injured in the manufacture, 
 probably by too high acid. When a piece is broken from the 
 plug, it should not crumble off, but should show a surface such 
 as flint does when broken, and is therefore termed a "flinty 
 breaJc." When pressed between the fingers it should not stick 
 to them but should mould like wax. Cheese that is tough and 
 will not come down readily between the fingers, is said to be 
 "corky," and is probably due to over-cooking or insufficient 
 quantity of rennet to cure it properly. Cheese should not be 
 mealy, as is the case with high acid or too highly salted cheese. 
 
 A cheese with good texture should not have any round, 
 smooth or ragged holes in it ; but should be as solid as a board. 
 
 Cheese with the round holes, or one that is soft and pasty, 
 will go off flavor on further keeping. 
 
Judging Cheese. 107 
 
 218. SALT. 
 
 As was said under the subject of salting the curd, salt gives 
 flavor to a cheese. In fact, the whole subject of flavor is affected 
 by the salt. Cheese that are a little soft and a little inferior in 
 flavor could have been entirely remedied by using a little more 
 salt. It has also been stated that salt may injure both the 
 texture and flavor by using too much. The influence of salt is, 
 therefore, partly considered under texture and flavor. 
 
 219. COLOR. 
 
 Like salt, the color of a cheese is another way of judging 
 its texture and flavor. A cheese without any coloring matter 
 added to it is improperly termed "white." An uncolored cheese 
 should never be white, but of a light amber color. If it is a 
 dead white, it is so because the acid ha.s cut the color out of it. 
 Of course in a colored cheese, these things would be more easily 
 seen. 
 
 The color should be even from one end of the plug to the 
 other. A high acid cheese will give a distinct odor to the trier, 
 the same as when acid attacks steel. 
 
 In judging cheese, unless some particular market is in view, 
 the shade of color cannot be taken into consideration. New 
 Orleans requires a very high color, St. Louis less, and Chicago 
 still less, while Boston in this country, and Bristol in England, 
 want no artificial coloring. The tendency toward making un- 
 colored cheese seems to be increasing. 
 
 220. GROSS APPEARANCE. 
 
 A good judge can usually tell the quality of a cheese from 
 the outside appearance. It should be square, ajid the rind with- 
 out cracks, for cracks indicate high acid. When the fingers 
 are run over the surface, it should be springy, that is, it should 
 give readily under the pressure and regain its position. If the 
 finger sinks into a place which does not spring back, it indicates 
 a hole or soft place in the cheese. The rind should not have 
 any white spots on it, as these indicate whey. Sometimes the 
 white spots will disappear in time, but it is a weak point in the 
 quality of the cheese. When the plug has been replaced in the 
 cheese, the place should be greased over, to keep the cheese 
 from drying out, and skippers from getting into the same. 
 
108 Cheese Making. 
 
 221. wisconsin factory chebsk ihakdrs' scale. 
 
 The scale adopted by the Wisconsin Factory Cheese 
 
 Makers' Association at Fond du Lac, 1895, is an improvement 
 
 over the old one. It is as follows : 
 
 Flavor 45 
 
 Texture 30 
 
 Color 10 
 
 Make up and general appearance 15 
 
 Total 100 
 
 In this the salt is judged in flavor and texture w^here it 
 
 belongs, while the very important item of the neat way in which 
 
 the cheese is put up gets proper consideration. Under the old 
 
 scale a dirty, poorly bandaged, crooked cheese, might get as 
 
 high a score as a neat square one. 
 
 The English scale of points : 
 
 Flavor 35 
 
 Quality 25 
 
 Texture ; 15 
 
 Color 15 
 
 Make 10 
 
 Total 100 
 
 In the above English scale quality, that considers that the 
 cheese should be mellow, rich, melting on the tongue, applies 
 to an old, well cured cheese. The cheese that goes onto the 
 market in this country would not do that. 
 
 222. CORKY CHEESE. 
 
 A corky cheese, as its name implies, has a texture re- 
 sembling that of cork. It does not break down and probably 
 will crumble in the fingers. There are two general causes, 
 over cook and too little rennet. If the cause is the latter the 
 cheese will improve with age. 
 
 223. HARD, CRUMBLY OR MEALY CHEESE. 
 
 Too much salt will make a hard cheese that will probably 
 be mealy. A high acid cheese will have a similar texture, but 
 the color will be cut and the flavor affected by the acid so that 
 the cause can be distinguished. 
 
 224. WEAK BODIED, PASTY CHEESE. 
 
 Cheese that ha,s too much whey left in it either by under 
 cook or insufficient stirring when dipped, will be soft, and will 
 not mold properly, but stick to the fingers. Such a cheese will 
 
Judging Cheese. 109 
 
 show mottled spots on the rind. Too much piling on the racks 
 will make a weak bodied cheese. In extreme cases the whey 
 will run out causing what is termed a leaky cheese. The danger 
 of weak bodied cheese is that they may become sour. 
 
 225. CRACKED CHEESE. 
 
 Cracked cheese are caused either by sour curds or by in- 
 sufficient closing in the press. The latter probably comes from 
 fat covering the particles of curd and preventing their cement- 
 ing into one mass. It may also be caused by over cook or 
 by a draft of air blowing over a cheese and drying it out rapidly. 
 Cheese are more apt to crack in a dry curing room in dry 
 weather. 
 
 226. POISON CHEESE. 
 
 There are occasional reports of people being poisoned by 
 eating cheese. Fortunately these cases are quite rare, but as 
 these cases are isolated it is difficult for scientists to trace the 
 full history of the cheese. Professor Vaughan, of Michigan, 
 some years ago carried on quite an extensive investigation of 
 the chemical nature of such cheese and isolated a poison called 
 tyrotoxicon. This poison causes cramps, acts as a purgative 
 and paralyzes the lower limbs. The author's attention was 
 called to the case of a factory in which some poison cheese had 
 been made. The factory was kept in a neat and tidy manner 
 so that it is not probable the poison resulted from carelessness 
 at the factory. The maker stated, however, that every cheese 
 containing poison had been made where the milk was held 
 several days before making into cheese, and in no case was 
 poison in the cheese where the milk was made up each day. 
 The grea.t majority of cases of ice cream poisoning have been 
 traced to church socials, where the cream was gathered and 
 held several days before freezing. This evidence would indicate 
 that the poison is more likely to occur where the milk is held 
 several days before being made up. 
 
 227. RUSTY SPOTS IN CHEESE. 
 
 Rusty spots in cheese are caused by bacillus rudensis, first 
 discovered by W. T. Connell in 1896 in a. Canadian factory. 
 Spots the size of a pinhead or larger can be seen at a distance 
 of several feet. In bad cases the cheese is colored as highly as 
 if by annate, but uneven in distribution. It is more prevalent 
 around gas holes and moist spots. A warm curing room 
 
110 Cheese Making. 
 
 hastens and a cool room retards them. They usually appear in 
 four to eight days. If they do not appear in ten days there will 
 be no cut in price. There is no injury to texture or flavor, but 
 the consumer objects to the appearance. 
 
 It broke out first in 1883 in a mild form in St. Lawrence 
 County, N. Y. In 1884 it was worse, occurring mostly in the 
 fall months. The factory at Hailesboro had it develop in 1892 
 and the factory had eventually to be abandoned for cheese. 
 Other factories in New York and Canada have been troubled 
 but it has not appeared in other parts of the country. Harding 
 and Smith of the Geneva Experiment Station have carried on 
 investigations which show that the factory is usually the main 
 seed bed, though the bacillus is found in the milk of certain 
 dairies. 
 
 If all of the apparatus is put into the cheese vat and cov- 
 ered tightly and a jet of live steam turned in on the utensils for 
 an hour, this operation to be repea.ted three times a week, the 
 trouble can be practically eliminated. 
 
 QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER XI. 
 
 1. What are the points in judging cheese and what im- 
 portance is attached to each? 2. Describe the flavor of a good 
 cheese. 3. Describe a good texture. 4. How does salt aflfect 
 flavor and texture? 5. Describe a good color. 6. What can 
 be learned from the gross appearance of a cheese? 7. What 
 are the English standards for cheese? 8. What is a corky 
 cheese and its two principle causes? 9. What are the causes 
 of hard, crumbly or mealy cheese? 10. What is a weak bodied 
 or pasty cheese and how is it caused? 11. What are the causes 
 of cheese cracking? 12. What are rusty spots in cheese and 
 how caused? 13. How extensive has .the trouble of rusty spots 
 been ? 14. What is the method of combating rusty spots ? 
 
Chapter XII. 
 
 HINTS ON THE CONSTRUCTION AND OPERA- 
 TION OF CHEESE FACTORIES. 
 
 228. INDEPENDENT FACTORIES. 
 
 In the closing pages of Chapter X the advantage of the 
 central curing room has been set forth. This will apply only 
 where one person controls a large territory or where factories 
 combine. The problem of the single factory still remains and 
 in this chapter the construction and operation of such an inde- 
 pendent factory will be presented. 
 
 Our factory will be equipped for ten thousand pounds of 
 milk a day, which is small enough. 
 
 239. ONTARIO CHEESE FACTORIES. 
 
 One secret of Western Ontario's success is in the fact that 
 her factories are large, well built, and properly equipped. 
 On pages 105 and 109 the plans for a factory are given. 
 
 230. GOOD FOUNDATIONS. 
 
 In the first place there should be good solid foundations, 
 either of stone piers, or gas pipe, which allows the ground 
 to heave and settle, without raising or lowering the building. 
 The supports should be close enough together to hold the sills 
 in place. 
 
 231. DIMENSIONS. 
 
 Our plans call for a making room 20x30 feet, with an 
 office ten feet square taken out of one corner of it, a.nd a boiler 
 room 10x16 feet attached, and a curing house 20x40 feet, two 
 stories high. 
 
 232. STOREROOM. 
 
 The upper story should never be used for curing cheese, 
 but for storing cheese boxes and other supplies. 
 Ill 
 
112 
 
 Cheese Making. 
 
 233. CURING ROOM. 
 
 Some Canadian factories have the curing house separate 
 from the rest of the factory, but we can build them together and 
 save the lumber for a second wall, which would be necessary 
 if they were separated. 
 
 234. SIULS. 
 
 We should have 8xl2-inch sills around the outside of both 
 parts of the building. There should be two 6x8-inch stringers, 
 running across the make-room, and one of the same dimen- 
 sions running through the middle of the long way of the curing 
 
 T 
 
 Cu-r-ini SKeluea 
 
 Curinol^oom 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 I'oom. Ten-foot joists ca,n be put between the sills and string- 
 ers. The dimensions of these joists should be 2x10 inches, and 
 they can be placed eighteen inches apart. 
 
 235. CURING ROOM FLOOR. 
 
 The joists under the curing room should have rough boards 
 nailed close together on the under side, and a five-inch layer 
 of tanbark put in between them. There will then be a five-inch 
 space left above the tanbark, over which a tight, heavy floor is 
 
113 
 
114 Cheese Making. 
 
 to be laid. This may be made, by first laying rough boards, 
 and covering with paper, and then laying the regular flooring. 
 The tanbark, air space and tight floor are to protect from out- 
 side temperature. 
 
 236. VAT ROOM FLOOR. 
 
 The making room should have a heavy two-inch floor, 
 preferably of maple. It must slope at a scale of one inch in 
 five feet, toward a ditch at the lower end of the vats or twenty 
 feet from the front end of the room. 
 
 237. CURING ROOM WALLS. 
 
 Paper can be put on the studding under the siding, and 
 the walls lathed and plastered. The studding is of 2x4, such as 
 is generally used, and if tanbark can be easily obtained, it can 
 be filled in between the studding. Tanbark is better than saw- 
 dust for filling in such places, as mice are not inclined to work 
 in it as much. It is hardly necessary to say, that the top of the 
 room should either be ceiled or plastered. 
 
 The curing room must practically be a large box, with walls 
 so constructed that the temperature inside will be afifected as 
 little as possible by the temperature outside ; some means of 
 introducing cool, fresh air into the curing room is highly de- 
 sirable. 
 
 The walls and ceilings will therefore have to be of several 
 thicknesses, with air spaces between, like the floor which we 
 have already described. 
 
 238. DOORS AND WINDOWS. 
 
 We must not forget, after we have built such walls, to have 
 the windows fit tight and have shutters on the outside. The 
 doors must be heavy, -with air spaces in them, and close tight 
 with a lever latch like a refrigerator door. 
 
 To construct our walls, we may put our 2x4 studding two 
 feet apart, which is to be lathed and plastered inside. On the 
 outside, rough boards and paper may be put, and then another 
 row of studding, and paper nailed on with boards on the outside 
 of these. In the spaces in the outer row of studding, tanbark 
 may be filled in. 
 
 239. JOISTS. 
 
 The joists in the ceiling should be 2x6, ten feet long, 
 eighteen inches apart, supported by 4x6 running crosswise of 
 
Construction and Operation. 115 
 
 the room. If the room is ceiled overhead, tanbark three inches 
 deep can be filled in between the joists, and then a layer of paper 
 put down before the floor is laid. If the room is lathed and 
 plastered, boards must be put in to hold the tanbark. The 
 second story, which is used only as a store room, need not have 
 double walls. A tight-fitting trap door should be made be- 
 tween the store room above and the curing room below, through 
 which to get the cheese boxes down. 
 
 240. STONE CELLAR. 
 
 A better wall for the curing room in the first story may be 
 made of stone, and built into the side of a hill, for still greater 
 protection from outside temperatures, as in the case with 
 cellars for curing of brick and Swiss cheese. The stone and 
 earth help to keep down the temperature of the air in the room. 
 
 241. CURING CELLARS. 
 
 In some places cellars made for curing brick cheese have 
 been used with splendid resuhs with Cheddar cheese. Such a 
 cellar is built into the side of a hill, is stoned up on the sides and 
 rises above the ground just far enough for small windows 
 around the top. One trouble with these cellars is that they 
 are sometimes so damp that cheese will mould rapidly. 
 
 243. CELLAR, HOW VENTILATED. 
 
 This can be obviated by ventilation. At each end of the 
 room is an eight-inch pipe running up through the roof. One 
 of these has a cone above it to prevent the rain coming in 
 through it. On the top of the other is a hood with a tail that 
 keeps the hood always facing toward the wind, and the wind 
 striking into the hood carries a current of air down into the 
 room, while another current of air goes out of the other pipe. 
 Dampers similar to those piat into stovepipes can be arranged 
 ih these pipes to regulate the flow of air. If the air should get 
 too dry, moisture could be-supplied by means of wet sheets. We. 
 have seen such curing cellars where the inside temperature did 
 not go above sixty-five degrees, while that outside was eighty- 
 five to ninety. We would have to .change the plans of the fac- 
 tory here given for such a curing cellar. 
 
 243. SUB-EARTH DUCTS. 
 
 In liis first edition of "Cheddar Cheese Making," published 
 in 1893, the author advocated the use of sub-earth ducts for 
 
116 
 
 Cheese Making. 
 
 cooling curing rooms. Since then the system has been put into 
 use and is very successful. As one descends into the ground 
 the effect of the sun's heat is left behind. Lower down the 
 internal heat is felt, but in a zone said to be between twenty 
 and eighty feet below the surface there is a constant tempera- 
 ture of 48° to 50° or possibly colder. This is indicated by the 
 temperature of the spring and well water that comes to the 
 surface. By conducting air down into the ground and then 
 through a system of tubes ten or twelve feet below the surface 
 
 
 <^^ 
 
 Ventilation of a cellar curing room by means oi a cowl and ventilator shaft. 
 
 for a hundred feet or more, it can be carried into the curing 
 room at a temperature of not over 60° F. If the curing room 
 is well insulated the air cannot get in at any other place and 
 will be cool. The air is forced into the duct by means of a 
 cowl, which always faces the wind, which is thereby forced 
 down a tube into the duct. An outlet from the top of the curing 
 room allows the warm air to escape. Our curing room if built 
 as described, would be right to use with a sub-earth duct, but 
 we would suggest that double windows and doors be put in to 
 make the room perfectly tight. The illustrations here given of 
 
Construction and Operation. 
 
 117 
 
 the construction of the walls of a room and of a duct are taken 
 from Bulletin 70, of the Wisconsin Experiment Station. 
 
 Plate showing how funnel and vane may be mounted. A, funnel; B, shaft of fun- 
 nel; C, C, C, 1-inch gas pipe; D, D, 1%-inch gas pipe; E, cap for support of 1-inch 
 gas pipe; F, G, H, and M M and N N are stays of band iron bolted together and to 
 the sides of the shaft to support the axis of the funnel; J, weather collar to turn rain 
 out of shaft. K, L, band-iron to stiffen vane and attach it to funnel. 
 
 Diagram for construction of a cowl for a sub-earth duct. 
 
 244. USE OF A WELL. 
 
 One of our illustrations (page 114) shows how a well was 
 used for cooling- the air for a curing- room. It is one of the 
 most successful ducts in operation. 
 
 245. NUMBER AND SIZE OF TILES. 
 
 The first ducts constructed were single tubes and were too 
 near the surface and therefore unsuccessful. The first success- 
 ful duct was made by placing thirteen rows, one hundred feet 
 long, of six-inch tiles eight to ten feet in the ground. These 
 
Plate showing the construction of wood curing room. 1, 1, 1, sill ; 2, 2, 2, a two- 
 by-ten spiked to ends of joist; 3, 3, 3, a two-by-four spiked down after first layer of 
 floor is laid to toe-nail studs to; 4, 4, 4, a two-by-four spiked to upper ends of stud- 
 ding of first story; A, A, A, A, three-ply acid and waterproof paper. The drawing 
 in the center shows space between studding filled with sawdust and another dead-air 
 space to be used when the best ducts cannot be provided. 
 
 118 
 
J 
 
 -> 
 
 I 
 
 f . 
 
 "^ 
 
 
 
 J 
 
 ' H 
 
 A 
 
 Plate showing section of cheese curing room and horizontal multiple sub-earth 
 duct. A, inlet to curing room; B, end of sub-earth duct in bricked entrance to fac- 
 tory; C, cross-section of the multiple ducts as placed in the factory of A. C. Werth, 
 Neenah, Wis. D, E, bricked entrance under funnel at outer end of sub-earth duct; 
 F, funnel with mouth 36 inches across; G, vane to hold funnel to the wind. 
 
 119 
 

 
 *nD 
 
 
 r=mK^- 
 
 
 / 
 
 \ 
 
 A 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 f 
 
 %j 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 J 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 ?- 
 
 
 E. 
 
 L_ 
 
 
 '.•:■•;•••;;;'•;•■; 
 
 — ' ■ ■. R 
 
 
 u^^^-^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 rr^ 
 
 '-y:r--A 
 
 • '•.. ■•." ■ • • .• • ••■•*^ 1 
 
 
 ■■■■■•■■H, 
 
 P^^--l- 
 
 • '. '••.'.'■.' • '." . . 
 
 '.' ." . .■•' 
 
 
 ■::'■■'■'■■■'■''•■}'''■ ■:■■'■• 
 
 11 
 
 
 •• '.' •.•■;•'.■■• .-• .'-■-• 
 
 lil 
 
 ^1- '■'■•'■: ■'•■.•' 
 
 i =" ■ . , . • 
 
 Plate showing vertical section of Mr. J. F. Steinwahn's factory and sub-earth duct 
 in well at Colby, Wis. A, A, funnel taking air into well; B, B, B, duct leading air 
 from well to curing room, C; D, ventilator. 
 
 120 
 
• X AND ( )l'l-:i<.\riON'. 
 
 12.1 
 
 tiles were, however, somewhat small in diameter, aiiil bv fric- 
 tion hindered the passage of air on still days when most needed. 
 Professor King recommends not less than three ten-inch 
 tiles one hundred feet long for a curing room of .j.OUU cubic 
 feet of space. Longer tubes and more of them twelve feet down 
 woidd be better. 
 
 •2Ui. WATER MOTOil KWS KOIl DKIVIM; AlU. 
 
 The weak point in the sub-earth duct is that there ma\- be 
 several days of hot weather with little wind when the cowl will 
 not work. .\t such a time a water motor dri\-en fan will cir- 
 
 Eightcen-iiicli cowl lo aiib-ci.nli iliici at K. 11. lUirick-, iav;i..i>. \\ cllini^ton. C). 
 The duct runs clown a hill ami the- factory is seen nt the foot of the liill. 
 
 culate the air. The Triuini)h Dairy Co, Triumph. Trumbull 
 County, ( )hio. h;is such a contrivance. .V five-l)arrel lank of 
 water on lop ot [he building will run the fan iiKist of ihe night. 
 The tank is filled with water by a steam pump. 
 
 2»7. IIOII.KK HOOM. 
 
 The lioiler room should have a cement floor laid iju the 
 ground, and it should be lineil with corrugated sheet iron, to 
 insure airaiust tire. 
 
122 CniiESE Making. 
 
 :24S. oi°irDi>« sHori.D nii: raised. 
 
 The rest of the building should be raised about a foot 
 above the ground, so that air may circulate beneath and keep 
 the sills from rotting. 
 
 24!>. WATEK SIJI'PI^Y, 
 
 A good well is an absolute necessity for a cheese factory. 
 Water can be pumped into a galvanized iron cistern placed 
 above the curing room. This cistern should be set in a drip 
 pan. which will catch anv leak or sweat from it. and carry it 
 outside without leaking through into the curing rcjom. 
 
 y.'JO. HOT WATEU. 
 
 I'^roni the cistern, water may be carried in pipes to the 
 <lifferent parts of the building, ddie water pipes should be 
 galvanized to prevent rusting. There can be a steam pipe run- 
 ning into the water pipe by a T, and the flowing water can be 
 heated by turning steam into it. 
 
 2.'l. SEPTIC TAMv. 
 
 Much difficulty has been experienced in getting rid of the 
 sewage around cheese and butter factories. The blind well has 
 been a source of contamination for the water supply and pollu- 
 tion of streams has been the occasion for law suits and neigh- 
 borhood quarrels. 
 
 The septic tank offers a simple, cheap and efficient means 
 of sewage disposal. It has been presented in a number of dairy 
 papers. 
 
 It is two feet deep and above ground, though it may be 
 covered with earth. The factory must therefore be built high 
 enough to empty the drains into the top of the tank. The 
 system of tiles into which the tank empties should not be over 
 one foot bellow the surface and slmuld ])v ])erfectly U-vel. 
 
 352. SEWEK IK A I* 
 
 At the mouth of the factory drain there should be a sewer 
 trap, which is simply an U) shaped pipe, in which water con- 
 stantly stands and keeps gas from coming up from the sei)tic 
 tank. 
 2r.:{. wiiEV TAMv, now iicii.t. 
 
 The whev tank should be lined with galvanized irou, and 
 be place<l liigh enough for a wagon to drive under, and draw 
 off the whey by simply opening a valve. The ground ought 
 
Construction and Operation. 
 
 123 
 
 to be paved in such a way that the drip will run off into the 
 sewer. A skim milk weig-her will facilitate an equal division 
 of the whey. 
 
 b>>SNN iIl]]lIII K ^XX^ ^ 
 
 GI/9ZFO T/LFS 
 
 .^c' Oo fi^ 
 
 
 I'LAN FOR A SEPTIC TANK. 
 (As shown in Hoard's Dairyman, January 1, 1904.) 
 
 This is a cement tank 8 feet' long, 4 feet wide and 21/2 feet deep, with a partition 
 reaching nearly to the top and dividing it into two sections. The top has two man- 
 holes G opening into the sections. The sewage enters Section 1 through pipe E, into 
 part A, which is separated from part B by a plank partition having 1-inch spaces 
 between the planks, to keep solid matter in part A. Solid matter collects on the top 
 by formation of gas. The liquids flow from the bottom through pipe F into Section 2. 
 When this fills the trap valve is sprung and lets the liquid run out into the under- 
 ground system of tiles. The tiles should not be more than a foot below the surface 
 of the ground, and should be level. Their volume should be a little more than the 
 volume of the section of the tank emptied into the tile. While the tank is filling 
 again, the* liquid soaks into the soil and bacteria near the surface decompose the 
 organic matter. 
 
 Prof. John Michels of Michigan has experimented with septic tanks and finds 
 the tanks, without the tiles, to be sufficient to decompose creamery slops. 
 
 254. ELEVATING WHEY. 
 
 To g-et the whey from the vat into the whey tank, it can 
 be drawn into a box or barrel, and from there forced by a 
 steam jet into the whey tank. The whey should be scalded to 
 keep it sweet, and after the patrons have gone every morning, 
 the tank should be scrubbed out and steam turned into it to 
 
124 Cheese Making. 
 
 scald it out. There should be a platform around the tank and 
 steps leading up, so that a person can get into it easily. 
 
 »55. BATH ROOM. 
 
 One thing that a factory should have, though generally 
 unthought of, is a bath room. This can l^e placed above the 
 curing room. A room, five by eight feet, can have a floor 
 covered with galvanized iron, to catch any drip or slop, and a 
 bath tub put in. Hot and cold water can be connected with it, 
 and a most desirable thing supplied. 
 
 256. EQUIPMENT. 
 
 For a factory of the capacity we are building, an eight- 
 horse power boiler will be required. A horizontal brick arch 
 boiler is preferable to a vertical one, as it will hold the heat 
 better, and a person can more easily clean the flues. 
 
 There should be a good steam pump, and possibly an 
 engine, though that is not absolutely necessary. For ten thou- 
 sand pounds of milk two vats of a capacity of 5,200 pounds 
 will be needed ; these ought to be provided with whey gates for 
 emptying them. 
 
 257. WATER BOXES OP VATS SHOULD BE LINED. 
 
 It is quite essential also to have the water boxes of the 
 vats lined with galvanized iron, or they will leak, making a bad 
 muss on the floor. 
 
 258. CURD SINK. 
 
 It will be remembered that a curd sink is a necessary piece 
 of apparatus in getting the curd drained properly ; we must, 
 therefore, have a curd sink constructed in the way suggested. 
 
 For the curd from 10,000 pounds of milk, two gang presses, 
 and either twenty Cheddar or forty flat hoops will be required. 
 
 259. PRESSING PLATS. 
 
 One should not attempt, as is quite commonly done, to 
 press two flats in a Cheddar hoop by putting a divider between. 
 Artistic looking cheese cannot be made in that way. 
 
 Flat hoops do not cost nearly as much as they did a few 
 years ago, and the expense will be but slightly increased in 
 providing the necessary number of hoops. 
 
 260. SINK, HOW MADE. 
 
 Another necessary thing, which is seldom found in a fac- 
 tory is a good sink. It should be iron or galvanized iron lined, 
 and plenty large enough — say three feet long, by twenty inches 
 
Construction and Operation. 
 
 125 
 
 wide, by twelve inches deep, properly connected with the sewer. 
 At the end of the sink should be a wide shelf or table inclined 
 toward the sink, so that drippings will run off into the sink. 
 This shelf is used to drain tinware on, and a steam jet pro- 
 jecting through it, can be used to sterilize utensils. 
 
 We need hot and cold water connections at the sink, and 
 perhaps a hot water barrel beside it. This barrel may be made 
 of galvanized iron, and should be used for a supply of clean, 
 hot water,' rather than a place to wash dirty tools. This latter 
 operation ought to be performed in the sink. 
 
 261. MILK, HOW LIFTED. 
 
 If the roadway is not high enough to empty the milk 
 directly into the weigh can, a large wheel fixed tight on an axle 
 is probably the best appliance for lifting the milk. An endless 
 rope runs over the wheel, and by pulling this rope the wheel 
 turns and winds up another rope on the axle. This rope has 
 tongs on it, which take hold of the milk can. 
 
136 Cheese Making. 
 
 The weigh can is placed on an 800-pound double beam 
 scale, which stands in a receiving room or covered platform. 
 This vplatform is built out on brackets in front of the factory. 
 On one side of' the room is a shelf for the milk book, and 
 another for the sample jars. The milk is run from the weigh 
 can to the vat, through an open tin conductor. 
 
 263. MILK TESTING. 
 
 For testing the milk, we should have a thirty-bottle, steam 
 turbine, Babcock test, and a Ouevenne lactometer. The Que- 
 venne lactometer gives a direct reading of the specific gravity, 
 and is used in connection with the Babcock fat test for detection 
 of watered milk. 
 
 Ik Conductor Head, for running milk from weigh can to vat. 
 
 263. APPLIANCES NEEDED. 
 
 We will name over some of the minor articles needed in 
 the factory, for some 'of them are usually found lacking, and 
 sometimes there are not enough of the articles to enable one 
 to work handily. 
 
 There ought to be two curd knives — horizontal and perpen- 
 dicular — and they should be six or eight inches wide and twenty 
 inches long. 
 
 A rennet test will be required, and two or three reliable 
 thermometers, for these are easily broken, and we must not run 
 the risk of being without one. 
 
 ■There will also be needed a hair sieve, linen strainer cloth, 
 wash dish, two curd pails, three or four twelve-quart tin pails, 
 several dippers, one of which has a flat side, and a perforated 
 tin bottofn, for skimming specks off from the milk. 
 
 264. CURING SHELVES. 
 
 The shelves in the curing room are supported by cross- 
 pieces, attached to wooden posts. These posts are 4x4s, reach- 
 ing from floor to ceiling. The cross pieces are 2x4s, set into 
 
Construction and Operation. 127 
 
 the 4x4, to keep them from tilting, and a bolt put through to 
 hold them in place. The shelves are sixteen-foot boards; six- 
 teen inches wide, and one and a half inches thick. -They should 
 be the clearest pine lumber obtainable. 
 
 The shelving can run crosswise of the room, and if the 
 boards are sixteen feet long, there will be a four-foot passage 
 on the side of the room next to the making room. At the 
 further end of the room from the door to the making room, ten 
 feet of space can be left for boxing cheese. 
 
 265. COST OF FACTORY. 
 
 The factory we have suggested will cost more than the 
 ordinary run of factories, for it is much better. Nothing that 
 will be a wa.ste of money has been suggested. Certain firms 
 put up factories which are inferior to this, for which they get 
 a third more money than this would cost. 
 
 As the cost of material in different localities varies so 
 much, we have not set a price on this factory, but the necessary 
 facts are given, so that anyone can figure on the cost of the 
 building for his own locality, and then reliable firms will furnish 
 machinery at reasonable prices. 
 
 QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER XII. 
 
 1. What is the necessity of good foundations for a factory? 
 2. How should the curing room wall be constructed? 3. Why 
 are double windows needed in the curing room? 4. How should 
 the curing room door be built? 5. What is the advantage of 
 a curing room in a cellar? 6. How may such a. room be ven- 
 tilated? 7. What is the principle on which a sub-earth duct 
 works? 8. How many and how large tiles should be used? 
 9. How deep should the tiles be placed in the ground? 10. 
 How long should a duct be? 11. How may air be forced 
 through the duct? 12. How large should the cowl be a.nd how 
 high should it be placed? 13. How can a well be utilized as a 
 duct? 14. How can hot water be secured? 15. Why should 
 the water pipes be galvanized? 16. What can be said of good 
 sewer connections? 17. What is a septic tank? 18. How 
 
128 Cheese Making. 
 
 should the whey tank be constructed? 19. How should the 
 whey be drawn off? 20. How can the whey be elevated? 21, 
 Why should the water tanks to the vats be lined? 22. How 
 should the curd sink be constructed? 23. Why should flats 
 not be pressed in Cheddar hoops? 24. How should a wash 
 sink be made? 25. How should the curing shelves be con- 
 structed ? 
 
Chapter XIII. 
 
 ORGANIZATION OF CHEESE FACTORY 
 ASSOCIATION. 
 
 266. PLANS OF OPERATION. 
 
 Cheese factories are operated on two plans, namely, the 
 private and stock company systems. In the first named plan 
 the factory is owned by an individual who furnishes everything 
 in the manufacture, and receives a certain price per pound fur 
 such manufacture, the milk and the cheese being all the time 
 considered the property of the patrons. The patrons then have 
 some form of organization for the purpose of selling the cheese 
 and dividing the money, and looking after their interests 
 generally. 
 
 Under the other system the farmers' organization goes 
 further and owns the factory, and the officers do all business 
 and hire a cheese maker to manufacture the cheese. Co-opera- 
 tive associations are usually not successful unless a business 
 manager is given full authority to manage the business. 
 
 The following by-laws will give a general idea of how to 
 organize such an association : 
 
 367. BY-LAAVS FOR A CHEESE FACTORY ASSOCIATION. 
 
 Article I. Name— This Association shall be known as the 
 
 Cheese Company. 
 
 Article II. Capital Stock— The capital stock of the Association 
 shall be $4,000, divided into. two hundred shares of twenty dollars each. 
 
 Article III. Officers— The officers shall be a president who shall 
 have general oversight of the business of the Association and prosecute 
 any case at law that may arise. A treasurer shall receive and disburse 
 all money and keep a proper set of books which shall be open to in- 
 spection of any member of the Association at any time. He shall be 
 
 the salesman for the Association. He shall receive $ per annum for 
 
 his services. There shall be a secretary who shall figure all milk divi- 
 dends. He shall be Chairman of the Test Committee. 
 
 Article IV. There shall be semi-annual meetings of the Associa- 
 tion on the first Tuesday in March and October, three days' notice of 
 the time and place of meeting to be given by the president. Special 
 
 129 
 
I'M) Cheese Making. 
 
 meetings may be called by the president, three days' notice of the time 
 and place to be given, and upon the written request of ten members of the 
 Association the president shall call such a meeting. 
 
 Article V. The division of money for cheese sold shall be deter- 
 mined by the fat test of the milk, after expense of making has been 
 deducted. The remaining amount of money shall be divided by the 
 number of pounds of butter fat delivered during the time said cheese was 
 made, to determine the price per pound of butter fat, and each patron 
 shall receive that price per pound for the butter fat delivered by him 
 during that time. 
 
 Article VI. Test Committee — There shall be a test committee of 
 three members beside the secretary who shall assist the cheese maker in 
 testing the milk. 
 
 Article VII. The price for making cheese shall be one and a half 
 cents per pound. 
 
 Article VIII. The cheese maker may reject any milk that in his 
 judgment will not make first-class cheese. 
 
 Article IX. No milk will be received at this factory that has not 
 been properly strained and aerated. 
 
 Article X. These by-laws may be altered at any legal meeting by 
 a two-thirds vote of the members present, providing there are at least 
 ten members present at such meeting. 
 
 The above by-laws can, of course, be changed to suit any 
 particular Jocality or conditions. The amount of capital stock 
 may be altered, or such articles changed to make them suit a 
 private factory. 
 2GS. tejT committee:. 
 
 Article VI, which organizes a test committee, is for the 
 purpose of preventing dissensions. We quite often hear it 
 stated that the maker reads the tests low to get a larger yield, 
 or that he favors one patron more than another. Such state- 
 ments may be founded on facts, but are generally the results of 
 suspicions. Now if the patrons have a committee of their 
 number to see the tests made, such a committee cannot fail to 
 secure justice. 
 
 209. Q,UORDM. 
 
 The matter of the number that shall constitute a quorum 
 has been purposely left out, for in such an association it is not 
 very important, and might hinder in the business of some meet- 
 ings. The article on the revision of the by-laws contains a 
 clause that practically names a quorum in such a case. 
 
 270. RATES FOR MAKING. 
 
 In some Canadian stock companies there are two rates 
 charged for making the cheese, a stockholders' rate and a 
 
Organization of Cheese Factory Association. 131 
 
 patrons' rate, which is higher than the former. The patron is 
 not entitled to whey. It belongs to the corporation, to be 
 fed to hogs owned by the association, or disposed of as the 
 stockholders see fit. Each share of milk entitles the owner to 
 have fifteen thousand pounds of milk made up at stockholders' 
 rates, and after that he must either get another share of the 
 stock or pay patrons' rate for all milk made up above that 
 amount. The object of this rule is to make each patron take a 
 financial interest in the factory. 
 
 271. FIGURING DIVIDENDS. 
 
 Perhaps this is the proper place to speak of figuring divi- 
 dends. As is indicated in one of the by-laws the price per 
 pound of butter fat should be found, and each patron paid for 
 the pounds of fat delivered by him. 
 
 Cheese may be sold each week, but the dividends are made 
 for the month. 
 
 The composite samples of milk are saved as described 
 under the head of milk testing, and tested once a week. The 
 pounds of milk delivered by the patron multiplied by the per 
 cent of fat, gives the pounds of fat delivered by him. The 
 amount of money left after paying all expenses is then divided 
 by the total pounds of fat for the month to get the price per 
 pound of fat. And then the number of pounds of fat delivered 
 by each patron, multiplied by the price per pound, gives the 
 amount due him. Theoretically the pounds of milk delivered 
 each week should be multiplied by the weekly test, but the tests 
 from week to week if averaged together for the month, and then 
 the monthly milk multiplied, will give very close to the amount 
 found if each week's fat were found and added together for the 
 month, and a large amount of labor is saved. 
 
 If there is a small surplus or shortage of money in figuring, 
 it can be added to or subtracted from the next month's money 
 before determining the price per pound. 
 
 For an example of dividing money suppose there are three 
 patrons, and during the month they delivered milk as follows : 
 
 A 3,000 tbs. milk testinR 4.0 %=120 fts. fat 
 
 B 2,200 fts. milk testing 3.5 %= 77 lbs. fat 
 
 C 1,000 tbs. milk testing 4.5 • %= 45 lbs. fat 
 
 Total for month 6,200 tbs. milk testing 3.90 %=:242 tbs. fat 
 
132 Cheese Making. 
 
 By dividing the pounds of fat by the pounds of milk for the 
 month, and multiplying by 100 we get the average test of all 
 the milk for the month. It is not needed in the figuring of the 
 dividends, but it is interesting to know what the average test is. 
 
 Suppose the cheese made from the milk was 620 pounds 
 and sold at 10 cents per pound. We then have $62.00. The 
 cost of making was $9.30, and we have left $52.70 to be divided 
 among the patrons. By dividing this amount by the 242 pounds 
 of fat we get 21.777 cents per pound. Then 
 
 A has 120 tbs. fat @ 21.777 cts.=: $26.13240 
 
 B has 70 tbs. fat @ 21.777 cts.= 16.76829 
 
 C has 45 fts. fat @ 21.777 cts.= 9.79965 
 
 Total $52.70034 
 
 We had $52.70 to be divided. One should always prove his 
 figures to be sure they are correct. 
 
 372. FACTORY STATEMENT. 
 
 A statement containing all necessary items should be given 
 each patron so that he can figure the dividend himself. There 
 should be a printed form for this. The following may be used : 
 
 MUSCODA CHEESE ASSOCIATION FACTORY. 
 
 Statement for • • 
 
 Month of 19 
 
 Sales include following dates to 
 
 No pounds of cheese sold fts. 
 
 Amount of money received $ 
 
 Average price per pound cts. 
 
 No. pounds of milk delivered 
 
 No pounds of fat delivered 
 
 Average test 
 
 Expenses 
 
 Money to be divided 
 
 Which leaves cts. per pound of fat 
 
 No. pounds of milk delivered by you 
 
 Your average test 
 
 Pounds of fat delivered by you -. 
 
 At cents per pound $ 
 
 Dr. by pounds of cheese at cts. per pound 
 
 Money due you -- 
 
 No. pounds of fat required for 1 pound cheese 
 
 No. pounds of cheese from 100 pounds milk 
 
 Sec. 
 
Organ iZATicjx of CiiiiKsii Factor v Ass(jciatio\. 
 
 133 
 
 QUESTIONS ON CMAl'TKk XIII. 
 
 1. \\ lial arc llie two general plans on which a factory may- 
 be operated? 'L Why are co-operative companies usually not 
 successful? 3. Describe how dividends are figured. 4. Why 
 should a statement be made to each patron when a dividend is 
 declared? 5. What are the important points in such a state- 
 ment? 
 
 Swiss Cheese Factory ai AxM, 
 
Chapter XIV. 
 SWISS CHEESE ITS CHARACTERISTICS. 
 
 :I7;5. SWKKT <l III) i.llKICSK. 
 
 It will be rcmeniberocl that ClioiMar cheese was first made 
 in England and was introduced into America by the emigrants 
 from England, in like manner the manufacture of a number of 
 other styles of cheese has been introduced. These styles are 
 w'hat are generally termed sweet curd. The Cheddar is made 
 from ripened milk and a certain amount of acid is develoi)eil 
 in the whey. \\ ith the sweet curd varieties, however, the milk 
 must be "sweet," the milk being curdled and cooked up as 
 rapidly as possible and then put into the moulds before salting. 
 The salt is nearly all appjied to the outside of the cheese by 
 means of dry salt rubbed on the surface or by soaking the 
 cheese in a strong brine. 
 
 Among these cheese are "Swiss," of the round and block 
 varieties, brick and Limburger. .^wiss cheese has been made 
 in this country quite as long as has the Cheddar and with llie 
 brick and Limburger, will soon be. if it is not already, entitled to 
 the name ".American." 
 271. s\\ rry.KK, ^vinoitio >i ade. 
 
 .\merican Swiss, ov "Switzer." as it is called, is made to the 
 greatest extent in this country in Green and Dodge counties, 
 Wisconsin ; in Wayne, .^tark. Sunnnit. Columbiana and Tus- 
 carawas counties. </)hi(>; and in Xew ^'ork State. The makers 
 are mostly natives of Sw-itzerland. who have emigrated to this 
 country and brought their methods of making with them. These 
 methods can probably be improved upnn in a number nt wass 
 as will be indicated. 
 •2-r,. ni'.si itii"ri(»\ <»r s\> ir/.ioit ciieksk. 
 
 Swiss chee-e i- known in the old count i-y b\ the name of 
 Emmenthaler. Its origin is not definitely known, but it has 
 been made in the cant(Mi of Bern since in the rdieenth century. 
 Tn this couiUry it is made in two forms, the round or drum 
 Swiss, a.id the'bl.K-k Swiss. 
 
 134 
 
A typical bwisi 
 (if it shows its 
 
 checs 
 size. 
 
 ,inK characteristic holes ur "cycb. 
 ■en<-ct the light, showing that the 
 
 
 ._J& 
 
 Wi 
 
 W^^' ' •. • 11, 
 
 
 
 t:" 
 
 '* '^1~ ■ 1 
 
 -^ 
 
 
 
 - ^ "^ """"k 1 
 
 
 fci.' r _"' 
 
 
 
 
 yR?r^^ '" - V A"^''-. -. ^.vf 
 
 i^ 
 
 
 H 
 
 £i"ii-.: -^ -'-■'. 
 
 
 
 u 
 
 A .11- iliroim-h a Swiss cheese of secon.l 
 roim.l, hut has a dull surface. The h.iles near 
 of a "niszler." The cracks near the nunibci 
 King along the side shows the relative sizes < 
 
 • luality. The 
 
 hole next to ni 
 
 niber 
 
 1 is 
 
 the nuniher I 
 
 arc small and 
 
 are ty 
 
 )ical 
 
 3 are tyi>ica 
 
 of a glaesk-r. 
 
 The 
 
 rule 
 
 f the holes. 
 
 
 
 
 135 
 
13(; CiiKKSK Makixg. 
 
 The (Iruiii Swiss is pressed in large round cakes, twenty- 
 four to possibly thirty-six inches in diameter, and four to six 
 inches in thickness. Such a cheese will weigh, on the average, 
 about ISO pounds. The block Swiss is six inches square by 
 twenty inches long, and weighs twenty-five to thirty potinds. 
 The illustration shows a drum Swiss cheese cut open. ( )n top 
 is laid a square which indicates the size of it. The illustration 
 of two block Swiss on page l-"5".i will gi\'e an idea of their pro- 
 portions. 
 
 27<i. OE^TIOUMI.M.Vf; UlAMTV OK CHIOESE. 
 
 In order to intelligently discuss the manufacture of the 
 cheese, we should know what is re(|uired in a Swiss cheese to 
 make it of the best quality. 
 
 i:t7. flavor. 
 
 First as to flavor. We will sa\- that flavor is a hard matter 
 to describe, the same as the fiavor of a Cheddar cheese is hard 
 to express in words. It can be said, however, that the Swiss 
 cheese has a slightly salty taste peculiar to itself, a tastfe that 
 is very pleasing. A cheese that is ijitter to the taste is to be 
 condemned. 
 
 :i7S. I'lOVTl KIO. 
 
 .\ good Swiss chet'se .-hould have the right dough, that is. 
 it should not stick to the fingers, nor, on the otlicr h.and, be too 
 dry. but should mould in the fingers like wax. or as the term 
 indicates, like dough. It >honld .also have plenty of eyes or 
 holes about a half an inch in diameter, evenly distributed through 
 the cheese, as is seen in the illustration. These holes should 
 have a glossy surface, which is again an indication that the 
 dough is right. If it is loo soft, these holes will have a dull 
 sin"face. In an old cheese ;i drop of brine ma\- be foiuid in the 
 hole. 
 
 a7!». < oi.oit. 
 
 Till' color should be white. The nati\e Swiss cheese is very 
 light colorecl, pro])ably on acc(.unt of the feed tli;it the cows 
 get, the character of the fat gi\eii b\ the native cows (we know- 
 that ( iuernsey milk is exceptional]} yellow, while llolstein milk 
 is light coloreili. .-nid by the length ol linie that a cheese has 
 cured. Clu'cse that are (|uile \ellow- will turn white with more 
 age and cannot be dislinguishiMl from the native aiiicle, ami 
 
Swiss Ciieksi-— Its Ciiakac 
 
 137 
 
 except for the name ••imported" are just as fine. One reason 
 why foreign cheese meets with so much favor in this country 
 is that it does not reach the consumer till it is thoroughly cured, 
 and if the American cheese of the various kinds be allowed to get 
 thorouohlv cured it will meet with the same favor. 
 
 A series of plugs from Swiss cheese of difTcie.U quality. Nos. 1, 2, :! would be 
 classed as No. 1 cheese, though 2 has rather too many holes. Nos. 4 and 5 show the 
 cracks of a glaeslcr and the corresponding pasty appearance. No. 6 at the upper end 
 indicates a niszler, though a typical niszler would have the small holes the entire 
 length of the plug. No. 7 is what would be termed a blind cheese as there are no 
 "eyes" or holes. 
 
 •jiso. <iu vmos OF ciiroicsK. 
 
 There arc, however, poorer grades of this Swiss cheese that 
 are not represented by our illustration, for that cheese is an ideal 
 one. a typical article. Cheese are really put into three grades. 
 No. 1. Xo. 2 and Xo. •'«. Cheese like the one shown on page 129 
 with ilie ri-lu dough and flavor, and the right kind and distri- 
 buii..n oi iioles is classed as No. 1 cheese. Cheese without eyes 
 or holes is termed blind and classed as No. 2. A cheese with 
 little gas holes (called pin-holes in Cheddar cheese) is termed a 
 niszler, meaning "a thousand eyes." One that is pasty and will 
 stick {n the fingers usually has few round holes, and if it does 
 li.-.ve them thev are not glossy on the surface. Such a cheese is 
 
].'{8 C'mchsi-: Maki.nc. 
 
 likely to have checks (jr craclcs, runiiiiiij;- usually iu a horizontal 
 direction, throui^h it. These cracks are supposed to resemble 
 the fracture of a piece of glass and lunce'the cheese is called a 
 glaesler. The illustration (^n page 135 shows a cut through a 
 piece of cheese whicli presents three different kinds of holes 
 designated by the numbers on the surface. Xo. I shows a round 
 hole, but on close inspection it will be seen that the surface is 
 not glossy as is the case with the holes in the typical cheese 
 shown on page 13.'). Xo. > shows smaller IkjIcs as found in a 
 niszler. .\ niszler ma\ have the small holes all through it or in 
 local portions of it. X<i. :) shows a characteristic crack of a 
 glaesler. The pocket rule hung on the cluH-se indic:ites the size 
 of the holes. 
 
 a.Sl. HOW (iilOK.SIO IS TltlKI). 
 
 When a buyer goes into a factory to buy cheese he cannot, 
 of course, cut any of the cheese open, as shown in the illustra- 
 tions. He sees the inside of it by drawing a plug with a cheese 
 trier, as is done in buying Cheddar cheese. The picture on page 
 137 is a photograph of typical plugs of Swiss clieese. I'lugs 1. 
 2 and o have the pr(jper kind of holes, though .Xo. •-' has rather 
 too many to be classed as Xo. 1 cheese. Again, the holes in 
 No. n or at least one hole, was too large, for it cut the ])lug en- 
 tirely off. It would. iKnvever, probably pass for .Xo. 1. IMugs 
 ■I and •') have the cracks of a glaesler, and the utile particles of 
 curd rougheil up show it to be ])asiy. I'lng Xo. fl shows a 
 niszK'r at the upper en<!, while plug No. 7 is blind. 
 
 Xow to review the classes of Swiss cheese, the retpiirements 
 for Xo. 1 are that : 
 
 I. The llavor shall be go..d. 
 
 ■L Till' texture shall have the right dou^h, i. e., it must not 
 be too (h"\-. neither stick' to the tinger>, l)ut mould like wax. It 
 shall lia\-e the right kind of (.'yes evenly dist i-jbuted. 
 
 :'.. The color should be light. 
 For No. '! cheese would be inchnled : 
 
 1. Cheese of a second rale t1a\or. 
 
 '2. Cdaesler or blind cheese. 
 
 3. Cheese with a very mieveu or ;il)norm;il development of 
 eyes. 
 
 4. Niszlers. 
 
Block Swiss clieesc as it ai)pcars when of fine quality. 
 
 Block Swiss cheese bulged at siiles liuiii tuu ra|>iil foriuati 
 not work to the center fast ent.uRli. 
 
 of gas. The salt did 
 
 139 
 
140 CriEKsi-: Makixg. 
 
 No. 3 cheese would include : 
 
 1. Cheese of bad flavor. 
 
 2. Cheese damaged by rats or mice 
 
 3. Cheese cracked open. 
 
 Cheese damaged b\- rats or mice or cracked are vcr) likely 
 to rot at such points. 
 
 The buyer in the presence of the cheese maker determines 
 the grade of the cheese, and marks it on the edge with his trier 
 by gouging out I, H or III marks. He afterwards brands it 
 with a hot branding iron, the brand being usually his initials. 
 When the price of No. 1 is 9V2 cents, the price of No. 2 will 
 likely be 8 cents, and No. 3 will sell for from 3 to 5 cents. 
 
 Italians like glaeslers better than cheese with the eyes in it, 
 and will often pay No. 1 price for the glaesler and reject a No. 1 
 cheese. Some makers regularly turn out cheese of No. 1 quality, 
 while others have considerable difficulty in so doing, and the 
 difference in price makes a very large difference in the size of 
 the maker's pocketbook. The criticism that is often heard re- 
 garding our Cheddar cheese is, that there is not enough distinc- 
 tion made in price between good, indifferent and bad cheese. 
 That criticism cannot a|)ply to the Swiss cheese markets for the 
 judgment in buying is very rigid. 
 
 QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER XFV. 
 
 1. \\'hat arc the two kinds of cheese which are made with 
 reference to the amount oi acid developed? 2. Under what 
 class docs Cheddar fall? 3. Under what class does Swiss cheese 
 fall? 4. How is the salt usually applied to sweet curd cheese? 
 
 5. \\"liere is American Switzer made in greatest quantities? 
 
 6. By what name does Swiss cheese go in Switzerland? 7. What 
 are the two kinds of Swiss made in this country? 8. What is a 
 good flavor in a Swiss cheese? !>. W hat is a good texture in a 
 Swiss cheese? 10. What is meant by the dough of a Swiss 
 cheese? 11. What is meant by the eyes of a cheese? 1'3. What 
 should l)c the size oi these eyes, how should tliey appear on their 
 surface and how should they be distributed? 13. What should 
 be the color of a .Swiss cheese and what conditions intluenee it? 
 14. What are the three grades oi cheese and what conditions 
 determine the grade into which a cheese goes? J.".. What is a 
 niszler cheese? !•!. What is a glaesler cheese? v 
 
Chapter XV. 
 
 SWISS CHEESE FROM MILK TO CURING 
 CELLAR. 
 
 282. SELECTION OF THE MILK. 
 
 As has been previously explained, Swiss cheese is made 
 from sweet milk. So important does this seem to be that the 
 milk is delivered to the factory twice a day and made immedi- 
 ately into cheese. It is believed by a good many makers that 
 under all circumstances the rennet should be gotten into the 
 milk just as soon as possible. 
 
 283. CAUSE OF GLAESLER CHEESE. 
 
 Exception may, however, be taken to the opinion that all 
 milk for Swiss cheese should be set immediately when received 
 at the factory, for as may have been observed in the experiment 
 with rennet, a very sweet milk does not curdle rapidly nor is the 
 curd as firm as the curd from riper milk. It takes a certain 
 amount of acid (probably about .17 per cent) to make the rennet 
 expel the whey properly. With too sweet milk, such as is ob- 
 tained in the cool weather of the fall months, it is hard to get a 
 good cook on the curd and such cheese will have a pasty texture, 
 and a pasty texture will make a glaesler cheese. 
 
 284. RENNET TEST SHOULD BE USED. 
 
 The milk for Swiss cheese should not be as ripe as for 
 Cheddar cheese, but the rennet test should be used to determine 
 the condition of the milk, and then the milk, if it is too sweet, 
 should be brought to this point each day, by holding or by the 
 addition of a small starter. One of our students reports that 
 with the Marschall rennet test used in his factory, a milk that 
 tests five or six will be sure to give a glaesler cheese, while milk 
 at 3% will not do so. It should be remembered that Marschall 
 tests vary (89) so that each maker will necessarily have to deter- 
 mine at what point by his particular test the milk should be set. 
 
 285. USE OF A STARTER. 
 
 Swiss makers very largely use a homemade rennet, which 
 is made up by them each day by soaking strips of rennet in whey. 
 'l41 
 
142 Cheese Making. 
 
 It is even claimed that commercial rennet extract is not as good 
 as the whey rennet, for they cannot obtain the eyes with it. 
 The explanation for this probably is^ that the whey used acts as 
 a starter which supplies the necessary acid in the milk to make 
 the rennet expel the whey sufficiently. At the same time gas 
 germs may be added which will make a niszler cheese (280). 
 Freudenreich has shown that the lactic acid germ is desired in 
 making good Ementhaler. By using a commercial rennet ex- 
 tract, after adding a good lactic acid starter, a cheese with a 
 good development of eyes can be obtained. As this is being 
 done in actual practice it shows that the idea, prevalent among 
 Swiss makers to the extent that it is almost a law, that good 
 eyes cannot be obtained with commercial rennet extract, is 
 incorrect. Of course, the amount of starter required will not be 
 as much as for Cheddar cheese (113). 
 
 286. TEST OF RENNET SOLUTION NOT CORRECT. 
 
 When a maker makes up his whey rennet, he tries a certain 
 quantity of it on a sample of milk to see that it is of the right 
 strength. If the acidity of the milk were the same each time, 
 as well as the acidity of the whey used, this might be correct, but 
 as a different lot of millc with a difference in acidity is used, it 
 will be seen that this is not a correct way of determining the 
 strength of the whey rennet. It is, therefore, better to use a 
 commercial extract that will be of the same strength each day. 
 
 287. SWISS KETTLES. 
 
 Swiss cheese is made in large copper kettles that vary in 
 size from a capacity of 600 pounds to 3000 pounds of milk. 
 There are two kinds, the fire kettle and the steam kettle. 
 
 The fire kettle hangs on a strong wooden crane and the 
 height of the kettle is adjustable. The adjustment is obtained 
 by means of a strong iron screw on which it hangs, and which 
 passes through a nut in the crane. The kettle hangs over a fire- 
 place. This fireplace is built in a semi-circular form just large 
 enough to receive the kettle, and connects with a chimney for 
 the exit of the smoke. The front of the fireplace is built of 
 sheet iron, and is semi-circular in form, so that when closed it 
 just fits around the front side of the kettle. It is hinged on the 
 brick work on one side (the side opposite the kettle crane) and 
 the further end of it hangs from an iron crane which is also 
 
Swiss kettle in the Raub factory, near Munroe, Wis. The kettle hangs on a 
 heavy wooden crane. The front of the firsplace over which the kettle hangs also 
 hangs on a crane and can be swung out so that the kettle can be swung away from 
 the fire. The opening below the ^,'rale will be seen in frcjnt (>( the kettle. The round 
 cover is dropped over the top when the kettle swings forward. 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 
 VieNS 111 tliL- .--leiirn- Kieiory. 
 in front of the weigh can. The 
 
 .M.Mir.K-. \i 1-,., ^iiwuiuK uiL- kciiU- ssvuiig around 
 to the fireplace has been dropped. 
 
144 Chf.kse Making. 
 
 placed on the side of the fireplace opposite the wooden crane. 
 By turning this crane this sheet iron front can be swung out of 
 the way so that the kettle can be swung out into the room. 
 When the kettle is swung out of the fireplace, this front can be 
 closed and a sheet iron lid, hinged against the chimney, can be 
 dropped to cover up the hole for the kettle. A grate is placed 
 in the bottom of the fireplace, and a fire door in the sheet iron 
 front gives a place for the operator to tend the fire on the grate. 
 The steam kettles are set permanently on the floor. A 
 steam jacket is riveted on the lower part so that steam can be 
 used for heating the milk. _ A plug in the bottom connects with 
 a pipe for carrying off the whey. 
 
 Interior of Swiss cliecsc factory at Florence, Ohio. Steam kettles are used and 
 111-; whey is skimmed witli a ceiilrifuRal separator. 
 
 IISS. FILLING THE KETTLK. 
 
 The milk is strained into the kettle the same as into a vat 
 for Cheddar cheese. If a fire kettle is used the kettle may be 
 swung in front of the receiving window. Milk for Swiss cheese 
 should be paid for by fat test, the same as for Cheddar cheese. 
 It is sometimes claimed that rich milk does not give as good 
 eyes as poor milk. This opinion probably comes from the milk 
 
Swiss Cheese — From Mii.k to Curing Cellar. 
 
 145 
 
 being richer in the fall when the weather is also cooler, which 
 of course, keeps the milk sweeter with the attendant results of 
 very sweet milk. (285.) Rich- milk will make more and better 
 Swiss cheese than poor or skimmed milk. 
 
 280. SETTING THE MILK. 
 
 When the milk is all in the kettle the temperature should 
 be noted. The milk has probably not been cooled at home, 
 though it ought to have been aerated. (33.) It is therefore 
 probably warm enough for setting. If, however^ the tempera- 
 ture is found to be below 86° F., the milk should be warmed to 
 that point. The rennet is then added and stirred in with a 
 
 Keltle 
 
 d stirrer 
 
 large wooden or tin scoop. The milk is put into a whirling 
 motion in the kettle by this operation, and after stirring for four 
 or five minutes the motion should be stopped, so that the 
 coagulum, when it begins to form, will not be broken by the 
 
146 Cheese Making. 
 
 force of the current. In the course of twenty to thirty minutes 
 the curd should be ready to cut. 
 
 290. CUTTING SAVISS CURD. 
 
 A Swiss curd when ready to cut should be of about the same 
 consistency as a Cheddar curd. That is, it should make a clean 
 break over the finger when it is inserted (131). There really 
 ought to be a cover for the kettle so that the surface of the milk 
 will not cool off. It will be remembered (95) tha.t rennet will 
 not act as rapidly when the temperature is reduced, and one 
 should aim as far as practical to keep the heat from radiating 
 from the surface. At first the curd is turned over with the 
 scoop so that the surface coming in contact with the lower layers 
 will warm up. After the surface has been turned over very 
 carefully a scoopful at a time, it is ready to be cut with the 
 Swiss harp. 
 
 291. THE SWISS HARP. 
 
 The Swiss harp is so called, because it is shaped like a harp. 
 It is an iron frame with a long wooden handle. Fine wires are 
 strung lengthways of it about an inch apart. This is carefully 
 inserted in the curd and by circular motions across the kettle 
 the curd is broken into pieces about an inch in diameter. 
 
 292. THE WIRE STIRRER. 
 
 The wire stirrer is a stick five or six feet long, through one 
 end of which a group of wires are worked into a spherical form. 
 This is next inserted into the curd, which is brought into a 
 circular motion around the kettle. The curd is stirred gently 
 for a few minutes to keep it apart while it firms a little. 
 
 293. ANOTHER METHOD OP CUTTING. 
 
 By means of the stirrer the curd has become about as fine 
 as Cheddar curd. By using the knives used in making Cheddar 
 cheese (124 and 126) the curd can at once be brought to this 
 condition without breaking and jamming the curd. It is from 
 this cause that so much fat is lost in Swiss cheese making. (19 
 and 20.) 
 
 294. INSERTING THE W^OODEN BRAKE. 
 
 A wooden brake that is about four or five inches wide, 
 made to fit the side of the kettle closely, is now fastened in. 
 This breaks the current, causing an eddy in the whey as it flows 
 around the kettle and the heat is more evenly distributed. 
 
148 CiiKiisii Making. 
 
 u!»r>. < <M»Ki>(; Till-: (;lki>. 
 
 The kettle is next moved over the fire, or tlie steam is 
 turned on if it be a steam kettle. The operator stirs it vigor- 
 ously with the wire stirrer mentioned above, and the curd breaks 
 and contracts inio pieces as fine as wheat. It is stirred until 
 the temperature has been raised to -tU" or 4'^ Raumer. Raumer 
 thermi^meters which start with the freezing point of water as 
 <» and run to SO at the boiling point are used almost entirely 
 by .Swiss makers. in and 4'2' are therefore equal to I'.n and 
 l-">') l''ahrenheit. After thr whey has reached this temperature 
 the kettle is swung away from the fire or the steam is turned 
 off. as the case may be. The stirring is, ht:)wever, continued 
 until the curd is quite firm, when it is allowed to settle. 
 
 2JMJ. TKSTI\(; (lUO KOK I'IIlll.\KS.s. 
 
 .\ curd is considered firm enough for dipping when it ceases 
 to feel nmshy and will squeak between the teeth. Some makers 
 test the C')()k by S(|uee/ing it into a roll in the h;inil ami then 
 noting when it will bre;d< short. 
 
 Thi.> is a point where the maker's judgmenl is very im- 
 portant. If the curd i.- not cooked enough it will residt in a 
 glaesler, and if cooked too much the fermentations will wDrk 
 so slow that e\e> will not form. 
 •2U7. niri'iNCi I'liio < tun. 
 
 \\ hen the ci'id is finally firm enough, the wooden brake 
 in the >iile of the kettle is taken out and the curd is set whirling 
 in the kettle so that when it settles it will settle in a lump in the 
 miildle. li is then gathered up into a linen strainer cloth for 
 ])res>ing. The clotii is gathered at one edge in the hand and 
 Wet in the wlie\. and then spreail out and rolled onto a llexib'.e 
 iron band. The oiiposite end is held b\- an assistant, or if the 
 ojierator is alone, he holds ii in his teeth, and then tlu> iron band 
 i> bent into ;mi arch and sliil under the lump of curd. The cor- 
 ners of the cloth are then tiecl together and the whole thing 
 drawn up with a rope and tackle which runs on a pulle\- and 
 track, like a lia\- fork, to the pressing table. 
 
 It is claimed that if the jiieces of curd that .are collected at 
 last are put into the center, they will cause it to crack- ami from 
 the crack a rotten place will start. The curd sIktuM therefore 
 \)c put into the hoop in a lum]). and as qnickdy as possil)le, S(^ 
 that it will noi become cool an<l brittle and therefore crack. 
 
S\\ 
 
 l-NMM Mll.K 
 
 L"i-;i.[-Ai 
 
 149 
 
 Where lluTc i.> cur.i enough the hiiii]) in the kellle nia\ bo cut 
 in two and put into two h<)i)i)s in dilTerent (hppings. 
 
 We have seen thai the curd is cooked to i:>-") F.. and it 
 seein> a wvx high temperature for a man to put his arms into as 
 the maker has to do when he scoops the curd into the cloth. 
 Some observations on this point will show that the whey cools 
 down to 115' or l-.'O' before the curd is taken out. and is quite 
 different from the other high temperature which would proli- 
 ablv scald him. 
 
 A round Swiss chcc^e in tlio ho..p- ''"'>= cliccso is ma.lt- tlio thickness of the 
 lioiip. :m<l the liianieicr is adjiustcd accordingly by the ropo which runs around it. 
 A round board lies on top and presses the cheese into the hoop. 
 
 •^US. l>UIOSSi\<i IJUl .11 SWISS. 
 
 The pressing lai)le is usu.'dly on a brick nv stone wall and 
 is slig:hlly inclined so that the whey will drain off. The curd 
 cloth with the curd in it is init into ;i hoop made of a band of 
 elm wood heltl in circular shape b\- means of a cord that runs 
 around it. Our illustration shows such a hoop with a cheese 
 in it. The hoop rests on a circular ])ress board while a similar 
 board is placed on the top of it. The hoop is adjusted in diame- 
 ter 1)\- means of the cord so that the cunl a little more than 
 fills it. 
 
 I'or the first fifteen minutes it is pressed lightly, then a little 
 more pressure is applied, and in half an hour full pressure is put 
 on. It is turned several times a day. the cloth being- taken ofT 
 and readjusted each time. There are usually two cloths used in 
 the operation, one cloth lying underneath, and the other spread 
 over the top and tucked in between the hoop and the cheese. 
 The last time it is turned the date is marked on it with lamp- 
 black. Dry cloths are |)Ut on several times during the day. The 
 
P.lock Swiss moulds. A, tin- a(ljiistal)k- end. ni'ivcd l)y a screw. 11, the partition 
 wliieli fits int.! (lie srouves, making tlie ri^;lit sized molds after the hlocks are cut. 
 C. the cover or follower. 
 
 Itlock Swiss under pressure in individu.il m< 
 
 150 
 
Swiss Cmi-:i:si£ — Fkom Milk to Cl'uix<j Ckllau. lol 
 
 cloths should be kept clean by thorough washinj; and scalding; 
 The press may be worked partially by means of a screw as 
 shown in the illustration, but the main pressure is obtained by 
 placing a post between the cheese board and a heavy beam. 
 The post is close to the fulcrum end of the beam, while the long, 
 heavy end of the beam gives the pressure. 
 aoo. iMiEssi.vc; iilock swiss. 
 
 Block Swiss is practically the same as a round Swiss in 
 every way but the form in which it is pressed. It is first pressed 
 into a rectangular cake twenty inches wide and si.x inches thick. 
 A sliding end regulated by a screw adjusts the volume of the 
 mold to the quantity of the curd. It is turned and pressed in 
 this mold just like a drum Swiss for the first twelve hours. It 
 is then cut into blocks six inches wide and put into another mold 
 with partitions in it just large enough for each piece. Some- 
 times, however, the curd is pressed from the start in a mold six 
 inches wide by six mches deep and twenty inches long. 
 
 300. MARKIXG ClIKIi^.SE:. 
 
 When a cheese has been in the press twenty-four hours it is 
 taken out. It should be perfectly square at the edges with no 
 wrinkles left in it by folds in the cloth. A black paste made of 
 butter and lampblack is used for marking the date on it. It is 
 just as important to keep a record of the way a Swiss curd may 
 act as it is with a Cheddar curd. Such a mark will enable the 
 maker to follow the cheese in the curing cellar. 
 «<M. sAi/rixc; TiiK ciii5:i5:st: i.\ dkixe. 
 
 Most makers salt their cheese in a brine bath. A tank of 
 brine is kept in a cool room, sometimes right in the cellar. The 
 brine is made up by dissolving salt in water until the brine 
 formed is dense enough to float an egg. As cheese are salted 
 in the bath and absorb salt, it is necessary to renew the salt 
 quite often. The cheese is innnersed in the brine, turning it 
 over occasionally, as the cheese will float and the top rise a little 
 above the surface. A cheese is kept in the brine for three or 
 four days, according to the amount of salt it is desired to work 
 into it. 
 3<»3, s.\i/ri\(; WITH nuv s.\i,t. 
 
 Some makers do not use a brine bath for salting, but scatter 
 coarse salt on top of the cheese. The cheese is kept on a shelf 
 in the cellar, with a sailing hoop around it. This hoop is used 
 
t'urinir cellar in 
 ^sc nre on the slit 
 
 Corners factory, near Monroe. The large drum Swiss 
 The small boiler supplies steam for moisture when too dry. 
 
 I'.lock Swiss cheese in cellai 
 brush B on the post is used for 
 be seen. 
 
 t Stearns' f.ictory, nea 
 ^hing drum Swiss chee 
 
 e. Wis. The larwe 
 brine tank A is to 
 
Swiss Cheese — From Milk to Curing Cellar. 153 
 
 simply to keep the cheese from spreading while it is soft. The 
 salt draws moisture from the cheese. This moisture dissolves 
 the salt and acts as a medium for the transmission of the salt to 
 the interior of the cheese. No more salt should be apphed than 
 can be absorbed over night, so that the cheese will be dry next 
 morning. It is claimed that with the brine method the salt is 
 applied more evenly to all parts of the cheese. A cheese is 
 salted with dry salt from three to five days. If gas shows in a 
 cheese by its huffing or bloating, a little more salt apphed to that 
 locality will check the gas. 
 
 QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER XV. 
 
 1. What is the cause of glaesler cheese? 2. How much 
 acid should milk for Swiss cheese have before setting? 3. How 
 may the acidity of milk for Swiss cheese be determined? 4. 
 Why are makers more likely to have glaesler cheese in the fall 
 months than in summer? 5. What is the effect of whey rennet 
 in regard to the acidity of milk? 6. What is also the possibiUty 
 with regard to gassy fermentations when whey rennet is used? 
 7. What is the probable cause of glaesler cheese when commer- 
 cial rennet is used and how may this be remedied? 8. How 
 much lactic acid starter may be used in milk to be made into 
 Swiss cheese? 9. Why is the test for strength of whey rennet 
 as generally practiced in factories not correct? 10. What are 
 the two classes of copper kettles used? 11. How are the fire 
 "kettles arranged? 12. To what other cause than rich milk can 
 glaesler cheese in the fall be attributed? 13. What effect on 
 yield and quality of cheese does the butter fat have? 14. At 
 what temperature should milk for Swiss cheese be set? 15. 
 Why is the current of milk around the kettle stopped in a few 
 minutes after adding the rennet? 16. When is a Swiss curd 
 ready to cut? 17. How much rennet should be used in making 
 Swiss cheese? 18. How is a Swiss curd cut? 19. Describe a 
 Swiss harp. 20. Why is a Cheddar curd knife better for cutting 
 a Swiss curd than a Swiss harp? 21. What is the purpose of 
 the wooden brake placed in the side of the kettle while heating 
 the curd? 22. At what temperature should a Swiss curd be 
 cooked? 23. How do the Raumer and Fahrenheit scales com- 
 pare? 24. When is a curd sufficiently firm for dipping? 25. 
 What is the eflfect of an over cook? 26. What is the effect of an 
 
154 Cheese Making. 
 
 under cook? 27. How is the curd gathered into a lump or cake 
 when firm enough to dip? 28. How is the press cloth put 
 around the cake? 29. How is the curd transferred from tne 
 kettle to the pressing table? 30. How is a drum Swiss pressed? 
 31. How is the hoop or mold adjusted? 32. Why should care 
 be taken in putting th€ last pieces of curd with the lump on the 
 press? 33. What trouble may result if the curd cracks? 34. 
 How are the cloths adjusted on the cheese? 35. How is a 
 cheese marked? 36. What two methods of salting Swiss cheese? 
 37. How strong should the brine be made? 38. How long is 
 a cheese left in the brine? 39. How is a cheese dry salted? 
 40. What advantage is claimed for brine salting over dry salting? 
 
Chapter XVI. 
 SWISS CHEESE -WORK IN THE CELLAR. 
 
 :{o:5. s'rvn'i"i\<; tiiI': iovios. 
 
 l-'roni the saltiiii;- slult or brine tank the cheese is taken to 
 the curing ceUar. l he curing covers two stages and the cheese 
 should be handled in two cellars to secure the proper conditions 
 for a perfect curing. The first curing cellar should be kept at 
 a temperature of about 70° F. At this temperature the gassy 
 fermentations set in and start the eyes. By sounding on the 
 cheese by tapping with the finger, the eyes can be located, for 
 the cheese will begin to sound hollow. Care should be taken to 
 prevent the eyes forming too much in one part. Eyes may be 
 checked by salt, or they may be developed by a little higher 
 temperature and more moisture. .A.s a cheese dries out the 
 eyes are checked. .\ steam jet in the cellar will provide desired 
 moisture. 
 
 :104. IIK.VSOX FOIl >l.\lvl.\<i Ill.tXIv .SWISS. 
 
 r>lock Swiss are handy for cutting. Sometimes where the 
 fermentations are hard to control, block Swiss is made instead 
 of the round variety, for the blocks being smaller, gassy fermen- 
 tations can be checked quicker, and on the other hand, where 
 the eyes are slow in forming they can be coaxed easier. 
 
 a(»5. li.WDMNO OX THE SIIIOI.VIOS. 
 
 The large round cheese is kept on a round cheese board. 
 Jhis is so that the cheese can be handled easier. The cheese is 
 kept free from mold by frequent scrubbing with a long-handled 
 brush luade f(^r the purpose. When it becomes neccssarv to 
 turn a cheese, it is carried on this cheese board to a table, where 
 it is l1op])o<l over onto another board of the same kinn. Tlie 
 turning at the press is done in like manner. 
 :ioG. tub: .skcoxd ckll.vk. 
 
 Alter the eyes have been well started, the cheese is trans- 
 ferrecl to a second cellar which is kept at about (I<^ I"". Here 
 the eyes may still develo]) slowly, but they should not bloat the 
 cheese. Tf a maker attempts to cure cheese in oiu- cellar, he 
 
 1.=;' 
 
156 
 
 CuiiEsii AIakixi;. 
 
 will be likely either not to get the eyes started, or if they do 
 start they may develop tO(j far. 
 
 307. HA.\DLI.\(; IILOCK .SWISS IX CKKLAK. 
 
 Block Swiss being smaller than drums are UKjre easily 
 handled. They should be washed often enough to keep them 
 clean from mold. Care should be taken, however, not to keep 
 them wet, for in that case the rinds will soften. 
 
 »OS. I.KAGTH OF CURIXG PKRIOD. 
 
 Swiss cheese cures slowly. As described under the para- 
 graph on galactase, this enzyme breaks down the hard curd into 
 soluble peptones. This process takes a nund)er of months and 
 a fine Swiss cheese should be at least eight or ten months old 
 before it is ready for consumption. 
 
 
 \ b I 1 ' ; ;nric tubs of cheese, wcighinc 
 LiriiiiLft's w.Trehouse, Monroe. 
 
 ini; delivered ;U 
 
 ;{0!». IIO.VIXO DIIUM SWIS.S. 
 
 I )nim Swiss are shipped in large tub>. 'i'lie tub is made a 
 little tapering, ami to fil the diameter ni the cheese. First a 
 large rouml scale board is put in the b(jtl(_)m of the tub. A 
 cheese that just fills the tub in diameter is lifte<I in and pressed 
 tight against the bottom. .\.n(Jther scale ])oard next follows 
 and on top of this another cheese is crowded. In this way 
 l)robal)l\- six cheese are put in a tub. ( )n lop of the last a scale 
 board is placed and then the circular cover is forced dijwn on 
 top, by the maker standing on it and genil\ crowding on all 
 
Swiss Cheese — Work in the Cellar. 157 
 
 sides. With this pressure on it the cover is nailed into place. 
 In this way the cheese will be prevented from moving and being 
 injured thereby. Quite often a thousand pounds of cheese will 
 be filled into one tub. If the cheese has to stand in storage a 
 long time, especially if warm, it may sweat some and the scale 
 boards will prevent the cheese sticking together and spoiling 
 the rinds. 
 
 310. BOXING BLOCK SWISS. 
 
 Block Swiss is put up in boxes six inches deep, twenty 
 inches wide and three feet long. Such a box will hold a row 
 of six cheese. A paper is put in the bottom of the box, scale 
 boards between them, and another paper on top. The method 
 of grading cheese has been explained (281). 
 
 311. WHEY BUTTER. 
 
 It has been explained that in the methods of making Swiss 
 cheese more fat is lost in the whey than in the manufacture of 
 Cheddar. It is the general practice in Swiss factories to make 
 butter from the whey. In the great majority of factories this 
 butter is Httle more than grease. The reason for this is that 
 very crude methods are employed in the manufacture of it. The 
 fat as it rises on the whey is soft because it is warm. Under 
 these warm conditions bad fermentations are at work causing 
 poor flavors. The cream obtained is churned without being 
 properly cooled with ice and the grain is therefore soft and 
 greasy. The grease thus obtained sells for about ten cents a 
 pound. 
 
 By the use of a separator a much more efficient skimming 
 can be done, and the cream will be thick. With ice and a 
 proper vat for holding it, fat in the cream can be hardened and 
 ripened slowly, and fairly good flavors obtained. Then if 
 churned at a low temperature, an efficient churning will be pos- 
 sible with a good grain and a very fair flavor will be obtained in. 
 the butter. If this butter is then held in a refrigerator until 
 shipping, a much better price can be obtained for it. At the 
 present writing a number of factories where the whey is handled 
 in this way are turning out butter that sells for twenty cents 
 per pound, whereas the factories that are making grease in the 
 old way are turning out an article that brings but ten cents. It 
 pays to do things right. 
 
158 Cheese Making. 
 
 questio]>fs on chapter xvi. 
 1. At what temperature should Swiss cheese be kept to 
 start the eyes? 2. How may the location of eyes in the cheese 
 be determined? 3. How may an over development of eyes in 
 local points in a cheese be checked? 4. What is the effect of a 
 dry atmosphere on the development of eyes? 6. How may 
 moisture be supplied to a cheese cellar? 7. What is the advan- 
 tage in making- block Swiss instead of drum Swiss? 8. How 
 are drum Swiss handled on the shelves? 9. How is a drum 
 Swiss cheese turned? 10. At what temperature should the sec- 
 ond cellar be kept? 11. Why should old and new cheese not be 
 kept in the same cellar? 12. How often should Swiss cheese be 
 washed? 13. What will be the effect of keeping the cheese too 
 damp? 14. How long is it necessary to cure Swiss cheese? 
 15. How are drum Swiss cheese shipped? 16. What is the use 
 of the scale board between the rinds? 17. Why should the 
 cheese be crowded into the tub? 18. How many cheese are 
 placed in a tub and what is their aggregate weight? 19. What 
 is the size of a box for block Swiss ? 20. How many cheese are 
 put in a box? 21. How can whey butter be made to bring a 
 much better price than is usually obtained for it? 
 
Chapter XVII. 
 BRICK CHEESE. 
 
 312. CHARACTERISTICS OF BRICK CHEESE. 
 
 Brick cheese is probably so called because it is made in 
 the form of a brick, and bricks are used for pressure on the mold. 
 
 It is of a milder flavor than Cheddar, is moist and suits a 
 large number of people who like mild cheese especially. It can 
 be cut into thin slices which do not crumble and this brings it 
 into favor. 
 
 It may have a few small holes in it, but does not have the 
 large eyes of a Swiss. It is softer than Swiss, but not so soft 
 as Limburger. The real difference between brick and Limbur- 
 ger is that it contains less moisture and is cured in a drier 
 atmosphere, which conditions of moisture in and out of the 
 cheese influence the character of the fermentation in it. 
 
 313. QUALITY OP MILK REaUIRED. 
 
 For brick cheese, the milk should not be as ripe as milk 
 for Cheddar, and on the other hand it should not be so sweet 
 that the rennet will not expel the whey properly, for it will have 
 a tendency toward Limburger in the softness of the texture and 
 gas germs may get more of an ascendency in the cheese than 
 when the milk is ripened further before setting. If the milk 
 is ripe enough so that the curd will string on the hot iron before 
 it can be gotten out of the whey, a Cheddar flavor will develop. 
 One of the finest Cheddar flavors that the author has ever ob- 
 served, was in a brick cheese in which an eighth of an inch of 
 acid was developed on the curd at the time of dipping. 
 
 314. MILK, WHEN RECEIVED. 
 
 It, is evident that milk may be received but once a day if it 
 is properly cared for, in fact it will be less liable to develop gas 
 in the cheese if the milk has a. few hours age. On the other 
 hand, milk that is over ripe cannot be used without destroying 
 the peculiar character of brick cheese. 
 
 159 
 
160 Cheese Making. 
 
 The rennet test and the acid test previously described (82 
 and 108) are of importance in obtaining milk of the proper 
 acidity for brick cheese. If the milk is found to be very sweety 
 a lactic ferment starter may be added, so that a pure lactic acid 
 fermentation may predominate over the gas forms, and thereby 
 secure a cheese with fewer holes. 
 
 315. QUANTITY OF RENNET REQUIRED. 
 
 Brick cheese is a quick curing cheese^ and a little more 
 rennet is used than for a medium curing Cheddar, The milk 
 will, of course, be a little sweeter than for Cheddar and enough 
 rennet is used to coagulate it in twenty minutes. 
 
 316. HOW COOKED. 
 
 Brick cheese is made in a steam vat, is set at 86° F., the 
 curd cut and the temperature raised for firming, the same as 
 with Cheddar .The temperature at which the firming takes 
 place depends on the acidity of the milk. With milk nearly as 
 ripe as for Cheddar, 108° F. will do, while 118° or 120° may be 
 required for very sweet milk. The temperature usually em- 
 ployed is about 114° F, 
 
 317. TESTING CURD FOR FIRMNESS. 
 
 Curd, when ready to dip, should feel as firm as curd for 
 Cheddar cheese. An over cook will make the cheese dry and 
 corky, and an under cook will make a soft cheese approaching 
 a Limburger. 
 
 318. DIPPING THE CURD. 
 
 When the curd is firm enough, the whey i§ drawn of¥ so that 
 only enough is left in the vat to keep the curd from matting 
 together. A few handfuls of salt per 1000 pounds of milk are 
 then added to the curd for the supposed reason of checking 
 gas fermentations, but as the salt dissolves in the whey and 
 runs away, this operation can be of little use. Some makers 
 are in the habit of salting the milk by placing salt in the strainer 
 when the milk is running into the vat, to check acid and gas. 
 This, however, is positively injurious to the milk (94) and does 
 not accomplish the object sought. 
 
 319. BRICK CHEESE MOLDS. 
 
 The brick cheese mold is a rectangular box without bottom 
 or top. The common size is ten inches long by five inches wide 
 and eight inches deep. In some locaHties they are eight and a 
 half instead of ten inches in length. 
 
H)2 Cmicese Making. 
 
 Slits sawed on the inside enable the whey to more readily 
 escape. Sometimes molds are made of perforated tin, bnt they 
 do not hold the temperature as well as wood. 
 :5:i<». nuAiM.XG tabuk. 
 
 These molds set on a draining; table. The tal)le is about 
 thirty inches wide, by si.x, eight or ten feet long, and inclined 
 toward one end. A guard two inches high is fastened to the 
 upper end and sides. A half-inch strip is fastened along the 
 inside of this guard to rest tlie draining boards on. 
 
 3'2t. UltAIM.\(i UUAKDS 
 
 These draining boards arc a foot or sixteen inches wide 
 and have several rows of inch holes bored through them. These 
 boards are laid in the draining table with their ends resting on 
 the aforiementioned half-inch strips. A cloth, such as is used 
 on the racks in Cheddar cheese manufacture, is thrown over the 
 draining- board, and tiie molds are set side by side on top of this 
 cloth. 
 
 ;ta2. FII.LI.\4; TIIK MOLDS. 
 
 The table sets close to the vat, and the operator stands 
 between it and the vat. With a curd pail he dips the curd out 
 of the vat and fills it into the molds. The whey goes through 
 the cloth, and the holes in the draining boards, and runs dowai 
 tile table and into a whey gutter. Care should be exercised to 
 get just the same amount of curd into each mold so that the 
 cheese, when the curd is all pressed tight together, will be 
 about three or four inches thick, and will weigh six pounds 
 green. Wooden followers that just fit in the molds are then put 
 in on top of the curd. 
 
 323. PRESSING THK CIIKLOSE. 
 
 One or two bricks are placed on top of the follower in each 
 mold for pressure. In an hour or two the mold is turned over 
 and the pressure applied to the other side. Tliis may be done 
 several times during the twenty-four hours that the cheese is 
 in the press. 
 
 :V2t. SAI/riXO THE CHEESE. 
 
 -\t the end of twenty-four hours, the cheese is taken out 
 of the molds and salted, 'i'he salting is done in a salting room, 
 which is reallv a cellar room l)etween the making room and the 
 curing cellar. 
 
&s 
 
 mijiii? 
 
 ■irr-r- 
 
 163 
 
1G4 CiiiiESE Making. 
 
 The salliiii,^ tabic is built like the draining- or pressing- table, 
 with the exceptions that the sides are ten or twelve inches high 
 and there are no draining boards laid on it. 
 
 Each cheese is rubbetl with salt on all sides of it. 
 
 The salt dissolves and penetrates to the interior of the 
 cheese, at the same time expelling moisture which runs ofi from 
 the table. When the cheese is partially salted, the surface is 
 scraped with a tool which is much like a [)iecc of a saw blade. 
 The small teeth scrape up small particles of the curd which are 
 rubbed into the little crevices left between the particles of curd, 
 and in this way a smooth rind is formed. The salting usually 
 extends over three days, the cheese being turned each day and 
 a little coarse salt being laid on the upper side. 
 
 They are piled two or three layers deep, being laid on their 
 broad sides. l"lu'\- may be piled deeper each day. 
 
 :v^r,. < IKI\(; THK CHEESK. 
 
 I'rom the salting table the cheese is carried to the curing 
 cellar, where it is laid on tiers of shelves arranged around the 
 room. These shelves are ten or twelve inches apart. The cheese 
 are laid on their broad sides for a week or two until they begin 
 to cure, when they may be laid on their edges. 
 
 The cellar should be kept at a temperature of about (>o 1''. 
 and the. relative humidity should be S" t(^ 90 per cent. This, it 
 will be seen, is a little higher than is best for Cheddar cheese. 
 With such a humid atmosphere the cheese will probably mould, 
 and the maker is kejjt busy washing the mould off frt^ii the 
 cheese. Tie gets around to wash each cheese at least once or 
 twice a week, and if necessary oftener. The water usimI may 
 be clear water, or it may have a little salt dissf^lved in it. 
 
 a2«. AIM'K.VR.VXCE OF GAS— REMEDY. 
 
 Tf gas appears in the cheese it will huff up ami bulge out 
 at the ends, sides and edges. Where this occurs to an\- great 
 extent the value of the cheese is reduced, and the best remeilv 
 is to apply the Wisconsin curd test and elminate the cause. The 
 value of this test was first demonstrated in brick cheese factories. 
 
 :t::7. ( irixg proce.ss. 
 
 .\ plug from a green cheese will be very harsh to the fee!, 
 .and the plug will benrl like rubber. Tn the course of about twO' 
 
Brick Cheese. 165 
 
 weeks the harshness begins to disappear, and the cheese will 
 break down in the fingers, and mold like wax, though it is 
 somewhat softer and the plug more elastic than Qieddar. 
 
 Brick cheese is usually shipped when it is a month old. If 
 cured slowly, it is better at two months old, but being softer it 
 is not as long lived as Cheddar. 
 
 328. HOW THE CHEESE IS SHIPPED. 
 
 When brick cheese is ready to ship, it is wrapped in a good 
 quality of Manilla paper and packed in rectangular boxes that 
 are twenty inches wide, five inches deep, and three feet long, 
 the same size as a Limburger box and one inch shallower than 
 a block Swiss box. Each box will hold twenty to twenty-five 
 cheese, and the net weight of the cheese in the box will be one 
 hundred and five to one hundred and twenty pounds. The box 
 weighs about fifteen pounds more. 
 
 339. KANCY STYLES. 
 
 It has been pointed out that the market calls for odd sizes 
 and shapes of Cheddar at higher prices than for the large Ched- 
 dar form. The same thing is true of brick cheese. A round 
 cheese called a Munster is made in every way the same as brick, 
 excepting that the molds are round, and made of tin with holes 
 punched in the sides for the whey to more readily drain out. 
 Being round they are always laid on the flat ends to keep them 
 in shape. The salting and curing is the same as for brick, as is 
 also the method of shipping. 
 
 QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 1. Why is brick cheese called by that name? 2. What are 
 the characteristics of brick cheese? 3. What quality of milk is 
 required for brick cheese? 4. How often should milk be re- 
 ceived? 5. What can be said about the use of a lactic ferment 
 starter in milk for brick cheese? 6. How much rennet should 
 be used to set milk for brick cheese? 7. In what kind of a milk 
 receptacle is brick cheese made? 8. How does the temperature, 
 at which the curd should be cooked, vary with the acidity of the 
 milk? 9. How firm should the curd be for dipping? 10. What 
 would be the effect in the cheese of an over cook? 11. What 
 would be the effect of an under cook? 12. How far is the whey 
 drawn off from the curd before dipping? 13. Describe a brick 
 
166 Cheese Making. 
 
 cheese mold. 14. Describe a draining table and draining 
 boards. 15. What kind of a cloth is used to cover the draining 
 boards? 16. How is 'the curd filled into the molds? 17. What 
 are the dimensions and weight of a' brick cheese? 18. How is 
 the pressure applied to the cheese? 19. How long is the cheese 
 kept in the molds? 20. Describe a salting table. 21. How are 
 brick cheese salted? 22. How are the little crevices on the 
 surface between particles of curd filled in? 23. How long is the 
 cheese salted? 24. At what temperature should brick cheese 
 be cured? 25. What should be the relative humidity of the air 
 in the cellar? 26. Why and how often should the cheese be 
 washed? 27. What physical change does brick cheese undergo 
 in curing? 28. How is brick cheese packed for shipment? 
 29. How long should brick cheese be cured? 30. How does the 
 life of brick cheese compare with that of Cheddar and Swiss, and 
 why? 31. What is Munster cheese and how is it made? 
 
Chapter XVIII. 
 LIMBURGER CHEESE. 
 
 330. ORIGIN OF LIMBURGER. 
 
 Limburger cheese is of foreign origin, having come from 
 the province of Luttick in Belgium. Its manufacture in this 
 country is, however, carried on by the Swiss and German rather 
 than by Belgian emigrants. 
 
 331. CHARACTERISTICS OF I^IMBURGER. 
 
 Limburger is perhaps more generally known by its odor 
 than by anything else. Many people who have never tasted it 
 recognize the odor. But while it is kept cool it does not have 
 such a pronounced odor as when warm. It is found on the 
 market in blocks five inches square and about two inches thick, 
 wrapped in Manilla paper and tinfoil. It has a soft texture of a 
 yellowish color, 
 
 332. KIND OF MII^K REQUIRED. 
 
 Limburger is made from sweet milk. Except where the 
 milk is gassy, very sweet milk is not an objection as with Swiss 
 or brick cheese, for the reason that it is to be made soft and 
 pasty anyway, and if the milk were too ripe the rennet would 
 expel too much moisture. 
 
 333. UTENSILS USED. 
 
 A steam vat and curd knives, like those used for Cheddar 
 and brick cheese are used in the manufacture of Limburger. 
 A draining table like those used for brick cheese is also used but 
 the molds and subsequent handling are different than for brick. 
 
 334. SETTING THE MILK. 
 
 As the milk used may be sweeter than for brick it should 
 be set at 90° F., which is a little higher temperature than is used 
 in making brick cheese. It is proBably made up twice a day 
 and the temperature of it when received may be a little higher 
 than this. If it does happen to be higher it can be set at the 
 temperature it happens to be without cooling it to 90°. Enough 
 rennet should be used to coagulate the milk in twenty to thirty 
 minutes. 
 
 167 
 
1(58 Cheese Making. 
 
 335. cooking limburger curd. 
 
 The curd is cut when as firm as for Cheddar and brick, 
 that is, when it will break over the finger with a clean fracture. 
 The curd is stirred and the temperature raised in the same man- 
 ner as for the above mentioned kinds with the exception that the 
 firming is done at a lower temperature. Ninety-six degrees is 
 the temperature at which it is usually cooked. If the milk is 
 very sweet the temperature must necessarily be a little higher 
 than when some acid has developed. The curd is dipped when 
 a little softer than in making brick cheese. 
 
 336. DIPPING THE CURl>. 
 
 When the curd is firm enough the whey is drawn down so 
 that it just covers the curd as is done in making brick cheese. 
 The Limburger mold is made just like the brick mold with the 
 exception that it is twenty inches long instead of ten. The curd 
 is dipped into these molds and allowed to settle together, brick 
 pressure being applied. After about half an hour it may be 
 turned over. After resting in this position for fifteen or twenty 
 minutes the mold is lifted from the cheese, which is then a block 
 five by twenty inches, and two and a half to three inches thick. 
 It is next divided into four sections so that each section will be 
 five inches square. The cutting may be done with a common 
 large bladed knife, but a better contrivance is a knife with three 
 blades five inches apart. It is made in the following manner : 
 A heavy piece of tin five inches wide and fifteen inches long is 
 reinforced by a strong wire in the edge. Three pieces of heavy 
 tin, four inches wide by five inches long, with the ends turned 
 over to stiffen them, are soldered five inches apart on one side 
 of the large piece of metal. By simply pressing this instrument 
 down on the block of curd, the three bla.des cut into four equal 
 sized cakes. 
 
 337. lilMBURGER PRESSING TABLE. 
 
 The cakes are next transferred very carefully to the pressing 
 table. This can hardly be called a press, as the cheese get no 
 pressure beyond their own weight. The table is like the drain- 
 ing table with sides four inches high, but no draining boards 
 are used. A rectangular frame the size of the table fits inside 
 the table. A row of the cakes is placed along one side and are 
 divided by wooden partitions four inches high and five inches 
 long. When the row is completed a long strip, the length of 
 
I^iml)iirgiT molds 
 tions between. 
 
 ini; table, showing the long pieces antl the short parti 
 
 r.iiiiliiir^. I I 1 1 .nt is the saliinR table with the cheese in the salt, 
 
 the forenromiil is a bu.\ containing sah. The cheese is to be seen on the shelve^ 
 
 169 
 
170 Ciii:i:.siv Making. 
 
 the tabic, is placed ai^ainst the row ami another row is laid 
 down. In this manner several rows are laid down and the last 
 long strip held in place by several sticks wedged in between the 
 strip and the opposite side ot the table. The cakes are turned 
 a number of times in order to drain them and firm the surfaces. 
 The temperature of the room should be about GO^ F. In 
 twenty-four hours they go to the salting table. 
 
 33S. S.ILTING L.I.MBI R<iE:K. 
 
 Limburger is salted in much the same way as brick cheese. 
 First the edges are rolled over in a bo.x of salt and then salt 
 rubbed on the two broad surfaces. It is laid on the draining 
 table in single layers for the first day. The second day it is 
 salted again in the same way and piled in two layers. The third 
 day it is salted again and piled three or four layers deep. Lim- 
 burger is salted on the average about four days. 
 
 33». CUUI\G LI.MBriKiEK. 
 
 The curing of Limburger is a putrefactive fermentation. It 
 goes from the salting table to the curing shelves, where the 
 cakes are laid on their broad sides. They are washed every 
 day with water to keep them free from mould and to keep them 
 moist. The atmosphere of the cellar should have a relative 
 humidity of 95 and the temperature should be about 58^ tc. 
 63° F. Lender these conditions the surface soon begins to get 
 shiny and soft and change from white to a reddish yellow. This 
 change works its way to the center, changing the harsh curd to 
 a soft condition. After about ten days the cheese may be set 
 close together on their edges. This change requires from four 
 to six weeks to work to the center, and the cheese is then ready 
 to ship. 
 
 340. SHIPl'ING LIMBUKGER. 
 
 The cheese is first wrapped in Manilla paper and then in 
 tinfoil and is packed in boxes twenty inches wide, five inches 
 deep and thirty-six inches long. It may be held in storage for 
 a month or two longer before it reaches the consumer, but being 
 so soft it is not long lived. 
 
 341. CAISE OF THE IM THE F ACTIVE FERMENTATION. 
 
 The main cause of the putrefactive fermentation is the ex- 
 tremely moist condition in which it is kept. It mav be brought 
 about in harder cheese like brick and Cheddar, if they are kept 
 
LiMBURGER Cheese. 171 
 
 wet, or come in contact with each other or a moist wall^ in a 
 very moist atmosphere. 
 
 QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 1. Where did Limburger cheese originate? 2. What are 
 the characteristics of Limburger? 3. In what kind of packages 
 is Limburger found in the market? 4. What quahty of milk is 
 required for Limburger manufacture? 5. What kind of vat and 
 curd knives are used? 6. At what temperature is the milk set? 
 7. At what temperature is the curd firmed? 8. What would be 
 the effect of over ripe milk on the cheese? 9. How firm should 
 the curd be when ready to dip? 10. What kind of a mold is 
 used and what are its dimensions? 11. How much pressure 
 is applied to the curd in the molds? 12. What is the treatment 
 of the curd in the molds? 13. Into what sized blocks 
 is the curd cut when the mold is removed? 14. How is the 
 curd cut into blocks? 15. Describe a pressing table, 16. How 
 long is the cheese ieft on the pressing table? 17. How is the 
 cheese salted? 18. How long is the cheese left in the salt? 19. 
 How is Limburger handled in the curing room? 20. How long 
 is Limburger in curing and what is the physical change that 
 takes place? 21. How is Limburger packed for market? 22. 
 What conditions especially favor the characteristic fermentation 
 of Limburger? 
 
Chapter XIX. 
 EDAM CHEESE. 
 
 342. CHARACTERISTICS OF EDAM CHEESE. 
 
 In our best grocery stores one sees cheese put up in the 
 form of round balls about six inches in diameter. They are 
 colored a dark red or are of a bright yellow color, or may be 
 wrapped in tinfoil. E^ch cheese weighs about four pounds 
 and sells for a dollar, or at the rate of twenty-five cents per 
 pound. The texture is perfectly solid and has a flavor much 
 Hke an old Cheddar excepting that it is a little more salty and 
 is a little harder. 
 
 343. ORIGIN OF EDAM CHEESE. 
 
 I By referring to a map of 
 
 Holland it will be seen that 
 * North Holland is that por- 
 
 tion of the country west of 
 r i the Zuyder Zee. Edam is 
 
 situated on the Zuyder Zee, 
 about twelve miles northeast 
 of Amsterdam. Edam cheese, 
 together with Gouda, is made 
 
 J in other parts of Holland, but 
 
 that portion north of the North Sea canal on which Amsterdam 
 is situated, and west of the Zuyder Zee, is especially devoted to 
 Edam cheese. Every week markets are held at Edam, Purmer- 
 end, Alkmaar and Hoorn for the sale of cheese. 
 
 344. FARMING OF HOLLAND. 
 
 A large part of the country is below the sea level. Shallow 
 lakes or seas like the Zuyder Zee have been surrounded by 
 dikes, and the water pumped out. leaving level stretches of 
 country that grow luxuriant crops. The cattle are of the breed 
 known in this country as Holstein Friesian. There are a few 
 cheese factories, but the farmer usually makes his milk into 
 cheese in his own dairy. The utensils are crude, the milk being 
 set in a wooden tub and the necessary rises in temperature 
 
 172 
 
A Dutch farm scene in the Beemster Polder. Cattle in 
 niilkine time. 
 
 . 173 
 
 l)arnvaril just before 
 
17^ Cheese Making. 
 
 secured by Iicating a part of tlie milk or \vhc>- in a kettle and 
 adding- it to that in the tub. The cheese room, stable, living 
 apartments and tool rooms are usually all under one root. In 
 May the cattle are turned out in the fields until November, and 
 the stables are cleaned out and usually used for curing rooms. 
 As there is a lack of wood for lumber the houses are built of 
 stone or brick, which holds the temperature, and as the country 
 is surroundcMl and tempered by the sea, ideal conditions are 
 naturally present for curing cheese. 
 
 The factories have vats which are healed by steam as in this 
 country. 
 
 345. BDAM CHEEJsE IS IIOM.WO. 
 
 Edam cheese has been classed with the sweet curd cheese, 
 but we believe that the best quality of it really approaches very 
 close to the Cheddar. Hollanders have considerable trouble 
 with the gassy fermentations, and use a starter of sour whey 
 which contains a lactic acid germ. The milk is also made up 
 once a day, which gives the night's milk a chance to ripen. The 
 author observed sour Edams in the factories and dairies, and 
 on the markets, which shows that the lactic acid sometimes gets 
 the start of the makers. The purpose of the whey starter is to 
 check the gaseous fermentations. 
 :m(;. thkatmext or cheio.se fok market. 
 
 The cheese is marketed when it is about a month old. It 
 may mould some on the shelves, and is therefore washed and 
 then dried. A coat of linseed oil is rubl)ed over, which makes 
 the cheese shine. It is loaded into cart-; without boxing and 
 carried to market. 
 
 317. UESCKII'TIOX OF A\ EDAII ^lAKKET. 
 
 ( )n arriving at the market, w hich is a large open space in 
 I he middle of the city paved with stones, straw is first laid down 
 on tlie ])aveuient and the cheese piled on il in pyramidal pile 
 like so many cannon ])alls. The pile is covered over with a 
 cloth to protect it from the heat of the sun. When ihe market 
 opens, buyers pass among the piles and try a sain])Ie from each 
 pile with a tryer the same as is done with other cheese. If the 
 bargain is closed the salesman and buyer shake hands as if thev 
 wonld ne\-er let go, but if on tlu' conirar\ no ba.rg.'iin is made, 
 the buyer goes on and the salesman tui-n- the plugged cheese 
 over ami places it in the IxXtom of the pile, .-ind awaits the next 
 
..Mil l.ul.lings at Oe Uiju, Xortli llollaiul. 
 
i:g 
 
 CiiiJcsi-: Makim 
 
 inspection of his goods. When the cheese is sohl. it is phiceil 
 on skids, which will hoM ahoul l-")0 cheese, and (jificial weig-hcrs 
 place it u])on large balances in the market Ijnilding and l)alance 
 ihe cheese with official weights, 'idle l)U\er then takes pixs- 
 session ot his cheese. The price paid will j^rohahly correspond 
 to the price paid for Cheddar in this countr\-. The liest cheese 
 reach this conntry, but are not consumed until they are eight, 
 ten or |:)Ossiblv twelve months oM. 'The fine characteristic 
 
 Cnrum i-...,n. ..f an IC.l.ini clicc^c f;,ctnry at TIooKskar-pcl in Xmi-iIi Ilollan.l. 
 
 llavor cannot be devehjped in le>s time, and it nnisl be (le\eloi)ed 
 at a tem])t.ralure not to exceed (I.') l'". When it is cured, it may 
 be sniooiheil down in a turning huhe. The red color is ob- 
 laine(l b\ immersing it for half a minute in an alcoholic solution 
 of earnnne. 
 
 :5is. i'(»ssniii,i'rii':s oi' >i \m i- \< 'ii ui-, i\ aiiioick v. 
 
 As the milk in .\merica i> generall\- richer, the sanitarv 
 conditions better, and the climatic conditions can be artihcialh' 
 supiilied. it i-, po-sible to mnki' an l''<lam in this country that is 
 full\- e(iual. if not ->ui)erior. to the be-t imported I'Mam. 
 
The weekly cheese market al llo.^rn. Ncuih II..Iki 
 the cheese is wciKhe-l is ju.t I.eyuna tlic slaliie. 
 
 The market huihliiiK where 
 
 177 
 
178 Ciiiiiisi-: AIakixg. 
 
 »4y. .>l.\RIvET I"'(>lt KIJVM I\ .\>IKUICA. 
 
 Edam as sold at wluilesale in this countiy, is packed in 
 cases of one dozen cheese each or about fifty pounds, and sells 
 at about $^on per case. This is fifteen cents per pound, and 
 ought to encourage the manufacture of this kind of cheese. 
 Many wholesale houses are very anxious to buy it in large 
 quantities. 
 
 350. METHOD or .HAXLFACTtRE. 
 
 The description already given will give a fair idea of Edam 
 cheese as found in Holland. As the methods of manufacture 
 used in Holland are crude, the method here given will be for 
 practical and scientific conditions as found in America. 
 :t.->i. urvMi'v oi' >iii>K Ki'MK iuin>. 
 
 As has been explained, Edam is reall\' a cheese in wliieh 
 the lactic fermentation is developed, 'idle milk then nui>t be 
 such as is used for Cheddar, and the acidity should be deter- 
 mined by the rennet test in like manner ; in fact, the milk should 
 be colored and set, and the curd cut and firmed in the same 
 manner as for Cheddar. W hen one-eighth of an inch of aci<l 
 shows on the hot iron, the whey shotild be drawn and the ctu'd 
 stirred free from whey. 
 :ir,-2. iiAM)i,ix\ci Till': cuun kor kd.v.ii. 
 
 ddie curd is held for a time in the vat or curd sink in a 
 granular condition, to air and develop acid, until it will string- 
 half an inch to an inch 011 the iron, and then it goes into the 
 molds. 
 :ir,:i. ki>am molds. 
 
 The molds for \-jh\n\ cheese, as fotnid in Tlolland, are 
 mostly made of wood, but manufacturers of dairy supplies in 
 this country have found difficulty in making them of wood, so 
 that they will hold their shape and not check. Thcv arc there- 
 fore making castiron molds which are turned down and gal- 
 vanized. Each mold consists of two parts — a bottom part 
 shape<l like a bmvl with hemispherical bottom; and a top. the 
 interior of which is a true hemisphere that fits into the bottom 
 part, and when pushed into it leaves an interior space perfectlv 
 spherical. The two halves have flanges on the ends which 
 make them set squarely against other molds or the press heads. 
 Holes drilled through these flanges enable the maker to insert 
 
179 
 
180 CiiEESt: Making. 
 
 an iron hook and pull the top and bottom apart. Several small 
 holes through the ends of the halves allow the whey to escape 
 from the imprisoned curd. 
 
 :{r.4. .MKTHOD.s OF I'K i-:ssi.\«;. 
 
 In Holland iwn cheese go in a press together, one mold on 
 top of the other with a briek or wooden 4x4, 3 feet long, above 
 tlieui both for pressure. A ^■oung American gang press is better 
 tlian this, as it saves both lal)or and space. 
 
 ::.-..■;. iiooimxc; tiik ci un. 
 
 I'he curd is packed in the mold as tight as it can be crowded 
 with ihe hanils. and is rounded off on top. The cover is placed 
 on top and the mold placed in the press. Pressure is applied 
 gradually for a few minutes and full pressure put on in ten 
 minutes. In half an hour the cheese is taken out and dressed. 
 
 -.tr.ii. i)icKSM.\<; l:d.v.m cihoio.sk. 
 
 If just the right amount of curd is placed in the mold, the 
 cliee e will be spherical and not much of a paring will have to 
 be taken nff where the c(\i::;t' of the two hemispheres meet. A 
 bandage of chees clotli is now wet with warm water and wrapped 
 around the cheese, and a small cap laid nu each end. This 
 coming between the iron mold and curd makes the cheese 
 close perfectlx. Care should be taken to la]) the cloth evenly 
 so that wluMi taken off from the clu-ese deep wrinkles will not 
 be left. The chc c is pressed for the remainder of twenty 
 hours. Tt is then taken out, and if desired, the bandage may 
 be taken off immediatel}'. or it may he left until later to prevent 
 cracking. It can, however. probal)ly be taken off more easily 
 when fresh from the mold. 
 
 ::.-,r. '.vi/i"i\<; Env:»is, 
 
 Tlie cheese is now rubbed with salt and placed in a salting 
 cup. This is a cup slightly larger than the l)ottoni part of the 
 mold. Tt holds the cheese in shai)e and allows of a thin la\er 
 of salt on the underside. Tt is salted daily, turning it each time, 
 until it feels hard. Tt then goes to the curing shelves. 
 
 :ir,s. ( ri<i\<; lon.x^i. 
 
 The curing ]irocess is practically the same as fi^r Cheddar, 
 and the same conditions must be obtained : that is, a tempera- 
 ture of aT)out sixty degrees anrl a relative hiuuidity of ;ibout 
 eight V. 
 
Edam Cheese. 181 
 
 369. shelves for new cheese. 
 
 The shelves for the new cheese have holes about two inches 
 in diameter cut out, and reamed out on the top side so that the 
 cheese does not get out of shape, setting squarely on its end. 
 After a month or six weeks it can be set on end without injury 
 to the cheese. Of course, each cheese is turned and rubbed 
 every day or two, and if any tendency to crack occurs (which 
 by the way is one of the serious difficulties that will be met) a 
 very little salt scattered on the surface will check this tendency. 
 When the cheese is a month old, a little cheese grease or oil 
 rubbed on the surface will prevent a too rapid drying out. 
 
 360. LENGTH OP CURING PERIOD. 
 
 This kind of cheese will not be a success unless it is cured 
 at a temperature not to exceed sixty-five degrees for at least 
 eight or ten months. A year of curing will be better. The fine 
 flavor comes from the lactic acid fermentation to start with, and 
 then a slow curing in which the curd is changed to soluble 
 peptones, such as give this cheese and Cheddar their particular 
 flavors. 
 
 361. PREPARING THE CHEESE FOR MARKET. 
 
 The cheese, when fully cured, should be washed and then 
 scraped or turned down in a lathe. If the fancy requires it, 
 the rind may be colored with an alcoholic solution of carmine, 
 as previously indicated, and then wrapped in tinfoil to prevent 
 further evaporation. 
 
 A box 18x24 inches, six inches deep will hold a dozen 
 cheese. Paper should be put in the top and bottom of the box 
 and thin pieces of board placed between them. 
 
 QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 1. What are the characteristics of Edam cheese? 2. Where 
 did Edam cheese originate? 3. Where in Holland is the city 
 of Edam? 4. What is peculiar about the farms in Holland? 
 5. What breed of cattle is kept in Holland? 6. Do farm dairies 
 or cheese factories predominate? 7. In what kind of a vessel 
 is the cheese made and how is the temperature regulated? 8, 
 Of what material are the houses in Holland built, and how does 
 this aflfect the temperature of the curing rooms? 9. What are 
 the climatic conditions in Holland in regard to the conditions 
 for curing cheese? 10. Is Edam a sweet curd or acid curd 
 
182 Cheese Making. 
 
 cheese? 11. What kind of a starter is used in Holland? L2. 
 What is the purpose of the whey starter as understood by the 
 Dutchmen? 13. How is the cheese in Holland treated for 
 marketing? 14. Describe an Edam cheese market. 15. Where 
 are the principal cheese markets in North Holland held? 16." 
 What kind of Edams reach the consumer in the United States? 
 17. How are some of the cheese colored? 18. What conditions 
 are necessary to obtain a fine Edam cheese? 19. What are the 
 possibilities for the manufacture of Edam in America? 20. What 
 kind of a market is there for Edam in this country? 21. What 
 quality of milk is required for Edam cheese? 22. How is the 
 milk treated until the whey is drawn? 23. How much acid 
 should there be on the curd at the time of dipping-? 24. How 
 long- and in what condition is the curd held until ready for the 
 press? 25. Of what material are Edam molds in Holland made? 
 26. Of what material are they made in this country? 27. De- 
 scribe an Edam mold. 28. What kind of a press is required for 
 pressing Edams? 29. How is the curd put into the mold? 
 
 30. How long is the cheese left in the press before dressing? 
 
 31. How is an Edam cheese dressed? 32. How long is an 
 Edam cheese pressed? 33. What particular care should be 
 taken in dressing the cheese? 34. Why is the bandage used on 
 the cheese? 35. When is the bandage removed? 36. What is 
 one of the most serious difficulties to be met with in the manu- 
 facture of Edam? 37. How is Edam salted? 38. How long is 
 Edam cheese salted? 39. How may cheese be prevented from 
 cracking? 40. On what kind of shelves should the new cheese 
 be placed and why? 41. How long should cheese be cured? 
 42. Upon what conditions does the flavor of Edam cheese de- 
 pend? 43. How are Edams prepared for market? 
 
Chapter XX. 
 COTTAGE CHEESE. 
 
 362. UTILIZATION OF SKIM MILlt. 
 
 A great many city dairies that turn a large part of their 
 milk into the form of cream have skim milk left on their hands, 
 and to make the business pay as well as possible, they naturally 
 look for a means of disposing of this skim milk. Usually there 
 is quite a demand for the sour milk curd, known as Dutch 
 cheese, cottage cheese, or smierkase. 
 
 363. METHODS OF MANUFACTURE. 
 
 As this has been made probably for centuries, it would 
 seem an easy task, and so it is, if conditions are just right, but 
 as large dairies sometimes have difficulty in obtaming uniform 
 results, a short chapter treating about the manufacture of this 
 cheese from a scientific standpoint may be helpful. 
 
 364. CURDLING POAVER OF ACID. 
 
 As has been explained the casein of milk is precipitated by 
 rennet and dilute acids. Sweet milk can be heated to the boiling 
 point without curdling, but as acid develops, the milk will first 
 be coagulated at the higher temperatures, and then as the 
 acidity increases, the temperature at which it will curdle is 
 gradually lowered until skim milk containing .6 to .7 per cent 
 of acid will curdle spontaneously. At about 70° F. skim milk 
 will not increase in a.cidity above nine-tenths of a per cent as 
 the growth of the lactic acid germ is inhibited. Dr. Van Slyke 
 found approximately 5 per cent of sugar in milk used by him. 
 When the milk developed .9 per cent acid, the maximum 
 amount, 1.5 per cent milk sugar, or 28 per cent of that originally 
 present had dieappeared; 62 per cent of the rhilk sugar that 
 disappeared wa.s left in the form of lactic acid. The remainder 
 probably disappeared in the form of CO2 and other volatile sub- 
 stances. 
 
 183 
 
184 Cheese Makixc. 
 
 365. effect of fat on per cent of acid in milk. 
 
 Fat in milk or cream takes the place of some of the milk 
 serum. Cream containing 35 per cent fat will curdle with about 
 five-tenths of a per cent of lactic a.cid, and milk containing 5 
 per cent fat will develop hardly more than seven-tenths per 
 cent of acid. This is because the fat displaces a portion of the 
 serum. 
 
 see. ABNORMAL, FERMENTATIONS. 
 
 When other fermentations than pure lactic acid occur, 
 trouble may ensue, for gas may make the curd froth so that it 
 may be impossible to use it, or the curd may be slimy or the 
 flavor may be impaired. The way out of such a difhculty is to 
 use a lactic ferment starter (113) in the milk. 
 
 367. MEASURING THE ACIDITY. 
 
 As acidity plays such an important part, it may be desirable 
 to measure the acid. For this a Farrington Acid Test outfit is 
 required. In addition to the apparatus previously described 
 for testing milk for an acidity of two-tenths per cent (108), a 
 graduated glass cylinder of 100 c. c. capacity is required for 
 measuring the water carefully. One tablet is used for each 
 19.5 c. c. of water, or five tablets for 97 c. c. of water. The 
 titration is then made with 17.5 c. c. of milk measured into the 
 teacup with a Babcock pipette. Each cubic centimeter of the 
 alkali solution required is equal to one one-hundredth of one 
 per cent of lactic acid. 
 
 36S. MOISTURE, HOW REGULATED. 
 
 A very important factor in the manufa.cture of cottage 
 cheese is the control of the moisture content. Seventy-five per 
 cent of moisture makes a smooth cheese of good texture. More 
 water makes it soft and sticky and less makes it harsh like saw- 
 dust. The time and temperature used in firming is the im- 
 portant thing here as in the manufacture of Cheddar cheese. 
 The following rule will usually apply: Set the milk at 70° F. 
 until it coagulates. Cut it fine with a curd knife. Then heat to 
 90° F. in thirty minutes. In ten or fifteen minutes draw the 
 whey and dip as described in paragraph 369. 
 
Cottage Cheese. 
 
 185 
 
 Dr. Van Slyke has made careful investigations on this 
 point as shown in the following table : 
 
 ■s 
 
 
 
 
 
 sS 
 
 Texture of Cheese. 
 
 1 
 
 III 
 
 
 ■otO 
 
 ■BZ 1 
 III . 
 
 Ik 
 
 ii 
 
 
 X 
 
 
 
 M 
 
 jeS 
 
 ofef^S 
 
 ^1^gS 
 
 «5S 
 
 Per cent. 
 
 
 o 
 6 
 
 III 
 
 ml 
 
 ifil 
 
 
 III 
 
 Water in 
 Cheese. 
 
 
 1 
 
 60 deg. F. 
 
 80 deg. 
 
 60 
 
 15 
 
 135 
 
 77.6 
 
 good 
 
 2 
 
 60 deg. F, 
 
 90 deg. 
 
 20 
 
 5 
 
 145 
 
 78.8 
 
 soft 
 
 3 
 
 70 deg. F. 
 
 80 deg. 
 
 30 
 
 30 
 
 150 
 
 81.5 
 
 mushy 
 
 4 
 
 70 deg. F. 
 
 9J deg. 
 
 40 
 
 15 
 
 10 
 
 73.5 
 
 good 
 
 5 
 
 80 deg. F. 
 
 90 deg. 
 
 20 
 
 m 
 
 60 
 
 74.9 
 
 good 
 
 6 
 
 80 deg. F. 
 
 100 deg. 
 
 35 
 
 5 
 
 50 
 
 71.8 
 
 slightly dry 
 
 7 
 
 90 deg. F. 
 
 100 deg. 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 71.5 
 
 slightly dry 
 
 8 
 
 90 deg. F. 
 
 110 deg. 
 
 30 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 68.1 
 
 tough, hard 
 
 369. DIPPING THE CHEESE. 
 
 As soon as the curd has settled so that it will not interfere 
 with the whey strainer, the whey is drawn ofi and the curd is 
 dipped with a curd pail into a cloth strainer. This strainer is 
 made of linen strainer cloth, and is in the form of a tube so 
 that it can be slipped over a wooden frame. The ends of the 
 frame are supported by wooden horses, which are set over a 
 drain to catch the whey. The curd is stirred in this strainer to 
 free it from the excess of whey. Perhaps a little cream or 
 butter may be added to the curd at this time to make it softer 
 and more palatable. Cottage cheese, like other kinds, is more 
 desirable if it contains a good qua.ntity of butter fat. A Httle 
 dry sage or caraway seed may also be worked into it to give it 
 flavor. Salt to suit the taste, probably about two pounds to the 
 thousand pounds of milk, is also worked in. 
 
 3TO. HYDROCHlvOKIC ACID CHEESE. 
 
 Milk may be coagulated at once by the use of ten ounces 
 of chemically pure hydrochloric acid, spg. 1.20, diluted to ten 
 times its volume. The milk to be used should be at a tempera- 
 ture of 70° to 80° F. The acid is added slowly and stirred in 
 carefully to evenly distribute the acid. Stir it until the whey 
 appears clear. The whey is then drawn ofif and the curd dipped 
 and salted as described in paragraph 369. The yield of cheese 
 in either method of course depends upon the composition of 
 
186. Cheese Making. 
 
 the skim milk and the water retained, but it will be from sixteen 
 to twenty pounds per 100 pounds of skim milk. The cost of 
 acid is four or five cents per 100 pounds of milk, or one-fourth 
 cent per pound of cheese. The disadvantage of the hydro- 
 chloric acid method is the lack of sour milk flavor to the cheese. 
 This can be produced in a measure by adding some sour cream 
 or sour milk to the curd. 
 
 371. MARKETING THE CHEESE. 
 
 Local conditions may affect the form in which the cheese 
 is put up for sale. It can be put into balls or loaves, which are 
 cut later, or in paper packages, such as are used for oysters and 
 ice cream. It always pays to put up any article in a.s clean and 
 attractive a form as possible. 
 
 372. SOFT CREAM CHEESE. 
 
 Imitation Neufchatel and soft cream cheese is similar to 
 cottage cheese, but made in a slightly different ma.nner.- The 
 imitation Neufchatel is made from milk containing three or four 
 per cent fat while the milk for the cream cheese should contain 
 five to ten per cent fat, the higher per cents making the finer 
 quality of cheese. The milk is first treated to a good starter of 
 two to five per cent of its bulk, and then set with rennet at 80° F. 
 When coagulated it is set into a refrigerator or cold water is 
 run around it without breaking the coagulum. It is cooled to 
 60° F. if possible and left for twenty-four hours. The acid will 
 probably develop to .6 per cent, giving a rich ripened cream 
 flavor. It is then carefully turned into a cheese cloth bag and 
 hung up for twenty-four hours to drain. If too moist, a twist- 
 ing of the neck of the bag will assist in the expulsion of moist- 
 ure. After the twenty-four hours draining in the bag it is 
 salted. It can be worked into rolls by filHng a tube and push- 
 ing it out with a plunger. The rolls are wrapped first in parch- 
 ment paper and then in tinfoil. 
 
 The cream cheese can be printed with a butter printer. 
 
 This kind of cheese is perishable as it contains a great deal 
 of moisture and must be consumed within a week. It should 
 be kept in the refrigerator. 
 
 QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER XX. 
 
 1. What two classes of substances curdle the casein? 2. 
 What per cent of lactic acid must be present in skim milk to 
 
Cottage Cheese. 187 
 
 curdle it? 3. What per cent of lactic acid will curdle cream 
 containing 35 per cent fat ? 4. Why does it take a higher per 
 cent of la.ctic acid to curdle skim milk than cream? 5. What 
 effect has temperature on the curdling power of lactic acid? 
 6. What will be the effect of abnormal fermentations on the 
 quality of the cheese ? 7. How may the per cent of lactic acid 
 in the milk be measured? 8. What is the effect of too much 
 acid on the curd? 9. At what temperature should the milk be 
 set? 10. How high is it necessary to heat the curd to get it 
 firm? 11. How is the curd separated from the whey? 12. De- 
 scribe the strainer into which the curd is dipped? 13. What is 
 the object of adding cream or butter to the curd? 14. How 
 much salt is required for cottage cheese? 15. What substances 
 may be mixed with the cheese for flavor? 16. How should cot- 
 tage cheese be marketed? 17. How is hydrochloric acid cheese 
 made?* 18. What proportion and what kind of acid should be 
 used? 19. What is the disadvantage of making hydrochloric 
 acid cheese? 20. Describe the manufacture of imitation 
 Neufchatel and soft cream cheese. 
 
BIBLIOGRAPHY. 
 
 The following books should be helpful to the cheesemaker: 
 
 Dairy Bacteriology By Dr. H. L. Russell 
 
 Testing Milk and Its Products By Farrington and WoU 
 
 Principles of Modern Dairy Practice (Grotenfelt) 
 
 Trans, from the Danish by F. W. Woll 
 
 Handbook for Farmers and Dairymen By F. W. Woll 
 
 Milk and Its Products By H. H. Wing 
 
 Chemistry of Dairying By Harry Snyder 
 
 A. B. C. of Cheese Making By J. H. Monrad 
 
 Cheese Making in Switzerland By J. H. Monrad 
 
 Creamery Accounting By J. A. Vye 
 
 Canadian Dairying By H. H. Dean 
 
 188 
 
REFERENCES TO EXPERIMENT STATION 
 REPORTS. 
 
 The following list of references are to the bulletins and 
 reports of the experiment stations and the United States De- 
 partment of Agriculture. The list is not an exhaustive one in 
 the field of experiment station literature, but is intended to be 
 helpful to the student who wishes to follow some of the investi- 
 gations which have helped to place the art of cheese making on 
 a scientific basis. 
 - References on : 
 
 (1). THE COMPOSITION OF MILK IN GENERAL.. 
 
 Wisconsin Experiment Station Reports VI, pp. 42-63 and 
 161-168; VII, pp. 114-119; XI, pp. 205-217; XII, pp. 120-126; 
 XIII, pp. 73-80; XVI, pp. 140-152. Bulletins 15, 16, 18, 61. 
 New Jersey Bulletins 61, 65, 68, 67. Massachusetts Reports 
 1888, 1889, 1890, 1891, 1892. Minnesota Bulletin 19. 
 
 From Different Breeds : New York Experiment Station 
 Report 1891. Michigan Bulletin 68. Nevada Bulletin 16. 
 Cornell Bulletin, How Is Milk Formed? Bulletin 173, The 
 Relation of Food to Milk Fat. Bulletin 169, Studies in Milk 
 Secretion. Bulletin 92, The Efifect of Feeding Fat to Cows. 
 
 Compositions of Butter Fat as Affected by Food: New 
 Hampshire Bulletins 16 and 18; Texas Bulletins 11 and 14; 
 Alabama Bulletin 25; Pennsylvania Report 1890, Bulletin 17; 
 Maine Reports 1890, 1891, 1893; Iowa Bulletins 13, 14, 16, 17. 
 
 The Chemistry of Dairy Products, Ontario Report 1890,. 
 pp. 237-241; Bulletin 39. 
 
 The Mineral Ingredients of Milk: Maine Report 1890,. 
 Part II, pp. 52-67. 
 
 Milk Ash Analysis: New Hampshire Report 1888; Min- 
 nesota Bulletin 19. 
 
 Variations in Milk: Illinois Bulletin 17, pp. 9-16, and 
 Bulletin 24. 
 
 Facts About Milk : U. S. Department of Agriculture .- 
 Farmers' Bulletin 42. 
 
 189 
 
190 Cheese Making. 
 
 Variations in Milk During the Period of Lactation: Ver- 
 mont Report VI. 
 
 The Centrifugal Separation of Casein and Insoluble Phos- 
 phates from Milk: Wisconsin Report XII, p. 93. 
 
 Photographs of Section of a Cow's Udder : Cornell Bulle- 
 tins 158 and 178. 
 
 The Feeding Value of Whey : Wisconsin Bulletin 27 ; Re- 
 port VIII, pp. 38-48. 
 
 Whey Butter: Cornell Bulletin 85. 
 
 (2). FAT GLOBUIiES OF MILK. 
 
 The Fat Globules in Milk: Maine, Report 1890." 
 
 The Size and Number of Fat Globules in Milk : Wiscon- 
 sin, Report VII, p. 238; XI, p. 223. Pennsylvania, Report 
 1895. Vermont, Report IV. 
 
 In Milk From Cows of Different Breeds : New York Ex- 
 periment Station Reports 1891-92. 
 
 In the First and Last Half of Milking: Indiana, Bulle- 
 tin 24. 
 
 The Grouping of Fat Globules : Wisconsin, Bulletin 18, 
 Report XIII, p. 80. 
 
 (3). TESTING MIIiK. 
 
 Testing Cream and Milk: Maine, Bulletin 4. 
 
 Purchasing Milk by Test : Delaware, Report VII and 
 Bulletin 31. 
 
 Babcock and Beimling Tests : Ontario, Report 1890, pp. 
 183-184. 
 
 Short's Milk Test: Wisconsin, Bulletin 16. 
 
 Cochran's Milk Test: Cornell, Bulletin 17. 
 
 Babcock Milk Test: Wisconsin, Bulletins 24, 31, 36, 52. 
 
 Comparison of Milk Tests : West Virginia, Report III. 
 
 The Composite Test: Wisconsin Bulletin 36; Iowa, Re- 
 port XI, pp. 482-484; Bulletins 9, 14, 22; Illinois, Bulletins 16 
 a,nd 18. 
 
 Detection of Adulterations: Wisconsin, Bulletin 31. 
 
 Lactometer and Fat Test: Minnesota, Bulletin 27, pp. 
 65-56 ; Maine, Bulletin 4 (new series), pp. 6-10. 
 
 (4). YIELDS AND LOSSES IN CHEESE MAKING. 
 
 The Influence of Fat Upon the Yield and Quality of Cheese 
 — Babcock : Wisconsin, Report XI, pp. 131-146. 
 
References to Experiment Station Reports. 191 
 
 The Relation Between Milk Solids and the Yield of Cheese 
 and Between Specific Gravity and SoHds of Milk : Wisconsin, 
 Report XII, pp. 100-120. 
 
 Cheese Making, Distribution of Ingredients and Loss of 
 Fat: Ha.ndbook Experiment Station Work, U. S. Department 
 of Agriculture. 
 
 The Composition of Cheese, Milk and Whey and Their 
 Relation to One Another: Ontario, Report 1894. 
 
 The Addition of Cream to Milk for Cheese Making : Min- 
 nesota, Bulletin 19. 
 
 A Series of Investigations in Cheese Making: Geneva 
 (N. Y.), Bulletins 43, 45, 60, 61, 62, 65, 68, 70, 82, 89, 105, 
 110, 132. 
 
 The Loss of Cheese in Curing: Wisconsin, Report XI, 
 p. 144. 
 
 Losses in Cheese Making: Vermont, Report 1891, pp. 
 95-100. 
 
 (5). AERATION OF MIIiK. 
 
 Aeration and Aerators: Cornell, Bulletin 39, pp. 90-94; 
 Vermont, Reports 1892, pp. 123-128; Indiana, Bulletin 44, 
 pp. 37-39. 
 
 On Flavor of Curds : Wisconsin, Report XII, p. 127. 
 
 Absorption of Odors by Milk : Wisconsin, Report XV, 
 p. 104. 
 
 Flavor of Cheese Affected by Foods : Wisconsin, Bulle- 
 tin 115. 
 
 (6). ACIDITY. 
 
 On Acid Test of Cream: Illinois, Bulletins 32 and 33. 
 
 Alkaline Tablets: Wisconsin, Bulletin 52, pp. 8-16. 
 
 The Influence of Acid on the Texture of Cheese : Wiscon- 
 sin, Report XII, p. 129. 
 
 The Hot Iron Test: Wisconsin, Report XII, p. 133. 
 
 Experiments in Ripening Milk Before Setting: Wisconsin, 
 Report XII, p. 136. 
 
 (7). ORGANIZED FERMENTS. 
 
 Pure Lactic Cultures in Cheese Making and the Rise and 
 Fall of Bacteria in Cheddar Cheese : Wisconsin, Report XIII, 
 pp. 95 and 112. 
 
 The Wisconsin Curd Test: Wisconsin, Report XV, p. 45. 
 
 Effect of Digesting Bacteria on the Cheese Solids of Alilk : 
 Wisconsin, Report XVI. 
 
192 Cheese Making. 
 
 Dairy Bacteriology: Bulletin 25, Office of Experiment 
 Stations, U. S. Department of Agriculture. 
 
 Invasion of the Udder by Ba.cteria : Cornell, Bulletin 178. 
 
 The Different Species of Bacteria Producing Lactic Acid. 
 Connecticut (Storrs School), Report III. 
 
 Blue, Red, Reddish Brown, Bitter Milk: Minnesota, Re- 
 port 1893. 
 
 Tyrotoxicon — Cheese Poisoning — Vaughan : Michigan 
 State Board of Health Report, 1886. 
 
 The Fermentations of Milk — U. S. Department of Agri- 
 culture; Office of Experiment Stations, Bulletin 9. 
 
 Souring of Milk : U. S. Department of Agriculture ; Farm- 
 ers' Bulletin 29. 
 
 Isolation of Rennet from Bacteria Cultures : Connecticut 
 (Storrs), Report 1892, pp. 106-126. 
 
 Sources of Bacterial Infection: Wisconsin, Report XI, 
 pp. 150-165. 
 
 CleanHness in Handling Milk: N. Dakota, Bulletin 21. 
 
 Care of Milk on the Farm : U. S. Department of Agricul- 
 ture, Bulletin 63. 
 
 Sources of Gas and Taint-Producing Bacteria: Cornell, 
 Bulletin 158. 
 
 Notes on Some Dairy Troubles : I, Fishy Flavor in Milk ; 
 II, Bitter Flavor in Neufchatel Cheese; III, Sweet Flavor in 
 Cheddar Cheese ; IV, Rusty Spot in Cheese. Geneva, N. Y., 
 Bulletin 183. 
 
 Control of Rusty Spots in Cheese Factories : Geneva, 
 Bulletin 225. 
 
 Colored Spots in Cheese : Circular No. 24, R. A. Pearson, 
 U. S. Department of Agriculture. 
 
 (8). ENZYMES. 
 
 Rennet Extracts of Commerce: Iowa, Bulletin 22, pp. 
 845-851. 
 
 The Chemistry of Casein and the Theory of the Curdling 
 Action of Rennet : G. Courant in Exp. St. Record, Vol. V. 
 
 Commercial Rennets : Exp. St. Record, Vol. V, p. 100. 
 
 Experiments With Rennet: Wisconsin Report XV, pp. 
 31-35. 
 
 A Study of Enz3mies in Cheese : Geneva, Bulletin 203. 
 
References to Experiment Station Reports. 193 
 
 Rennet Enzyme as a Factor in Cheese Ripening: Geneva, 
 Bulletin 233. 
 
 Galactase: Wisconsin, Reports XIV, p. 161; XV, pp. 77- 
 93; XVI, pp. 157-175. 
 (9). che}e:se: makiing. 
 
 Hints to Cheese Makers : Iowa, Bulletin 19, pp. 637-631. 
 
 Investigations in Cheese Making: Iowa, Bulletin 21, pp. 
 735-767. 
 
 Experiments in Cheese Making: Minnesota., Bulletin 19, 
 pp. 20-25. 
 
 Changes During Cheese Ripening: Iowa, Bulletin 24, pp. 
 969-984. 
 
 Methods of Estimating of the Proteolytic Compounds Con- 
 tained in Cheese and Milk : Geneva, Bulletin 215. 
 
 A Study of Some of the Salts Formed by Casein with 
 Acids — Their Relation to American Cheddar Cheese : Geneva, 
 Bulletin 214. 
 
 Some Compounds Present in American Cheddar Cheese: 
 Geneva, Bulletin 219. 
 
 The Relation of Carbon Dioxide to Proteolysis in the 
 Ripening of Cheddar Cheese: Geneva., Bulletin 231. 
 
 Chemical Changes in the Souring of Milk and Their Rela- 
 tions to Cottage Cheese : Geneva, Bulletin 245. 
 
 Conditions Affecting Chemical Changes in Cheese Ripen- 
 ing: Geneva, Bulletin 236. 
 
 The Role of the Lactic Acid Bacteria in the Manufacture 
 and in the Early Stages of Ripening of Cheddar Cheese : 
 Geneva, Bulletin 237. 
 
 Conditions Affecting Weight Lost by Cheese in Curing: 
 Geneva., Bulletin 207. 
 
 Experiments Upon the Curing of Cheese : Cornell, Re- 
 port 1880, p. 927. 
 
 Moisture Supplv in Curing Rooms : Wisconsin, Report 
 XIII, p. 156. 
 
 Experiments in Curing Cheese at Dififerent Temperatures: 
 (jeneva. Bulletin 234. 
 
 The Influence of the Temperature of Curing Upon the- 
 (rommercial Quality of Cheese : Geneva, Bulletin 184. 
 
 Shrinkage of Cold Cured Cheese During Ripening: Wis- 
 oonsin. Bulletin 101. 
 
194 Cheese Making. 
 
 Curing of Cheddar Cheese, with Special Reference to Cold 
 Curing: Wisconsin, Bulletin 94. 
 
 The Cold Curing of Cheese. U. S. Department of Agricul- 
 ture, Bureau of Animal Industry: Bulletin 49. A combined 
 report of work done for the Department of Agriculture by the 
 Wisconsin and Geneva, N. Y., Experiment Stations. 
 
 Cheese Making — Recent Work: Experiment Station Rec- 
 ord, Vol. V. 
 
 Manufacture and Production of Cheese — Alvord: Year 
 Book, 1895 ; U, S. Department of Agriculture. 
 
 The Manufacture of Some Fancy Brands of Cheese — Lusch- 
 inger: Minnesota Dairy Association, Report XVI. 
 
 The Ma^nufacture of Edam and Gouda Cheese : Minnesota, 
 Bulletin 35, Report 1894, pp. 104-128; New York Experiment 
 Station's Report 1893, pp. 244-269. 
 
 Milk for Cheese Making: Ontario, Bulletins 28, 41, 94. 
 
 Notes for Cheese Makers: Ontario, Bulletins 40, 43, 44, 
 47; and Reports 1889, pp. 163-179; 1893, pp. 167-170. 
 
 Method of Handling Sour Milk in Making Cheese : Wis- 
 consin, Report XV, p. 42. 
 
 Influence of Temperature on the Ripening of Cheese : Wis- 
 consin, Report XIII, p. 194. 
 
 Coating Cheese with Paraf!ine : Wisconsin, Report XVI, 
 p. 153. 
 
 Cleaning Milk for Cheese with a Centrifugal Separator: 
 Wisconsin, Report XI, p. 146. 
 
 Albumen Cheese : Wisconsin, Report XII, p. 134. 
 
 Wisconsin Cheese Makers' Association Reports. 
 
 (lO). SALT. 
 
 Effect of Salt in Cheese : Wisconsin, Report XI, p. 220. 
 Salt and Its Prevention of the Swelling of Cheese — Freu- 
 denreich: Experiment Station Record, Vol. V, p. 91. 
 Analyses of Salt : Wisconsin, Bulletin 74. 
 
 (11). STATISTICS. 
 
 The Distribution of Cheese Factories in Wisconsin: Wis- 
 consin, Bulletin 60, Report XIV. 
 
 Statistics of the Dairy : U. S. Department of Agriculture, 
 Bureau of Animal Industry, Bulletin 11. 
 
References to Experiment Station Reports. 195 
 
 Statistical Data Relative to the Cheese Industry of Wis- 
 consin: Wisconsin, Report XIV, p. 113. 
 
 National and State Dairy Laws — R. A. Pearson: Bulletin 
 of U. S. Department of Agriculture. 
 
 By-Laws, Rules and Regulations for Cheese Factories: 
 Canada Central Exp. St., Farm Dairy, Bulletin 9. 
 
 The Dairy Industry in Wisconsin: Wisconsin, Bulletin 88. 
 
 Wisconsin Report XX, pp. 188-240, gives a resume of all 
 cheese investigations conducted at the Wisconsin Experiment 
 Station during the previous ten years. 
 
 Statistics of the Dairy : U. S. Department of Agriculture, 
 Bureau of Animal Industry, Bulletin 55, 1903. 
 
ANALYTICAL INDEX. 
 
 THE NUMBERS REFER TO PARAGRAPHS. 
 
 Acid.— Effect of on curd, 137, 138, 189, 164. Effect of too much in milk, 
 IIG. Effect on rennet action, 81, 92. Farrington's test for, 108. How 
 much required for.Vs in. on hot iron, 136. In milk for Swiss cheese, 
 286. In water for washing cloths, 205. Lactic, source of, 28. Meas- 
 ure for Babcock test, 57. Measuring by hot iron, 136. Sulfuric, for 
 milk test, 60. Threads on hot iron due to, 137. 
 
 AciDiMETER. — Dean's, 137. 
 
 Acidity. — Effect -of fat content on possible, 365. In relation to curdling 
 temperature, 364. Measure for, 138, 367. Of milk for brick cheese, 
 314; for Cheddar, 111-116; Cottage, 364; Edam, 345, 351, 352; Swiss, 
 285. 
 
 Aerators. — Kinds of, 34. 
 
 ALBUMINOIDS. — How divided, 4. 
 
 Albumen. — Character of, 6. 
 
 Albumose.— Character of, 7. 
 
 Alkali. — Effect on rennet action, 92. 
 
 Amides. — Formation of in cheese, 197. 
 
 Antiseptics. — Use of in factory, 50. 
 
 Ash. — Character of, 8. Effect of heat on, 8. Reaction with Ammonium 
 Oxalate, 8. Soluble and Insoluble, 8. 
 
 Babcock Milk Test, 54. Acid measure, 57. Bottle, 55. Centrifuge, 58. 
 How operated, 59. Kind and strength of acid for, 60. Pipette, 56. 
 Reading of fat, 62. Speed of centrifuge, 61. Testing cheese with, 
 63. Weight of milk samples, 56. 
 
 Bacteria. — How introduced into milk, 28. In barn air, 35. Varieties 
 of in milk, 29. 
 
 Bandage. — How put on cheese. 183. Starched, seamless and ready 
 made, 182. 
 
 Boxes. — For brick, 328; for Cheddar cheese, 207; Edam, 361; Limburger, 
 340; Swiss block, 310; Drum, 309. 
 
 Brick Cheese.— Characteristics of, 312. Curd, how cooked, 316. Gas 
 fermfentations in, 326. How presed, 319-323. Quality of milk for, 
 313. Quantity of rennet required for, 315. Salting, 324. 
 Business. — By-laws for factory, 267. Factory statement, 272. Test com- 
 
 , mittee, 268. Figuring dividends, 271. Operation of factories, 266. 
 Prices for making cheese, 270. 
 
 197 
 
198 Cheese Making. 
 
 Cap Cloths.— 183, 184, 192, 194, 195. 
 
 Casein. — Character of, 5. How separated from milk, 5. 
 
 Cheddar Cheese. — Cheddar system proper, 107. Cleaning mouldy, 198. 
 
 Cracks in, 190. Greasing, 190. Hoops for, 258. In cold storage, 
 
 192. Made from ripened milk, 273. Size of, 181. Two processes of 
 
 manufacture, 106. Where originated, 102. 
 Cheese. — Amount of from skim milk, 13. Characteristics of brick, 312. 
 
 Cheddar, 102. Corky, 222. Cottage, 362. Cracked, 225. Edam, 342. 
 
 Fancy styles of, 329. Hard, crumbly, 223. Limburger, 330. Poison, 
 
 226 Sweet curd, 273 Swiss. 273. Weak bodied or pasty, 224. 
 
 Yield of per 100 lbs. of milk, 14. 
 Cleianliness. — Of cows, 36; factory, 41; utensils, 39 and 40. 
 Cloth. — Caps, 183, 184, 192. Circles, 194. For supplying moisture to 
 
 air, 205. Press cloths, 195. 
 Color. — From annatto, 117. Of an uncolored cheese, 117. Of Cheddar, 
 . 219; Edam, 351, 361; Limburger, 331; Swiss, 279. Requirements of 
 
 different markets, 117. Source of in commerce, 117. When added to 
 
 the milk, 117. 
 Colostrum Milk. — Characteristics of, 15. 
 
 Cooking the Curd.— Brick, 316, 317. Cheddar, 122. Definition of term, 
 122.' Effect of overcook, 135. Effect of undercook, 135, 188. For 
 an over-ripe curd, 131. Swiss, 295. Test for proper performance 
 of, 135. When to begin, 130. 
 
 Corky Cheese.— Cause of, 135, 222. Described, 222. 
 
 Cottage Cheese. — Moisture in, 369. Marketing, 371. Method of manu- 
 facture, 369. Several names for, 362. 
 
 Cracked Cheese. — How caused, 225. 
 
 Curd. — Composition of, 16. Condition of for salting, 167. Cutting into 
 blocks, 142. Piling of, 160. Pin-holey, 144. Steaming of, 163. 
 Sweet, 273. Turning on the rack. 143. Washing of, 145. Wisconsin 
 C. test, 31. When ready to mil, 151. 
 
 Curd Mills. — Advantages and objections to knife mills, 161. Descrip- 
 tion of, 152. Kinds— Barnard, 159; B. & W., 154; Elgin, 152; Fuller, 
 158; Gosselin, 156; Harris, 157; Kasper, 160; McPherson, 155; Peg, 
 152; Pohl, 153; Roe, 149; Whitlow, 154. Time to mill, 163. 
 
 Curd Sink. — How constructed, 147. How to fill, 144. Required in fac- 
 tory, 258. Use of, 148. 
 
 Curing.— Brick cheese, 325, 327. Edam, 358. Effect of different tem- 
 peratures on, 198. Effect of humidity on, 201. How long a process, 
 200. Length of period for Edam, 360. Length of period for Swiss, 
 308. Limburger, 339. Shelves. 264. Shelves for Edam, 359. Shelves, 
 how made, 199. Temperature of room for Cheddar, 197. Chemical' 
 changes in, 197. 
 
Analytical Index. 199 
 
 Curing Room.— Cellars for, 240, 241. Cellars for Swiss, 306. Floor for, 
 
 233. How ventilated, 242. Walls for, 237, 238. 
 Cutting the Curd. — ^Cutting into blocks on racks, 142. For Swiss 
 
 cheese, 289-293. How to cut, 123-127. Rapidity of stroke a factor 
 
 in, 128. Test when ready for, 121. 
 Daisies.— Size of, 181. 
 
 Dipping the Curd.— Cheddar. 141. For brick, 318. For Swiss, 297. 
 Dressing the Cheese. — Cheddar, 186. Edam, 356. 
 
 Edam Cheese. — As found in Holland, 345. Characteristics of, 342. 
 Cheese market, 347. Market for in America, 349. Method of manu- 
 facture, 350. Origin of, 343. Treatment of for market, 346 . 
 
 Emulsion. — Definition of, 11. 
 
 Enzymes.— Described, 71. Galactase, 72. Rennet, 73. 
 
 Factories. — By-laws for association, 267. Cost of, 265. Equiprtient, 258. 
 
 In Ontario, 229. Plans for, 230-242. Plans of operation, 266. Private 
 
 ownership, 266. Stock company, 266. 
 
 Factory System. — History of in Ohio, 104. History of in Wisconsin, 
 105. How carried to England, 107. Where and when started, 103. 
 
 Fat. — As basis for making dividends, 271. Characteristics and compo- 
 sition, 10-11. Effect of on possible acidity, 365. Eflfect of on quality 
 of cheese, 13, 14. Effect of on quality of cottage cheese, 369. Effect 
 of on quantity of cheese, 14. How excessive losses in Swiss cheese 
 . may be avoided, 20, Removing from curd for pressing, 178. Rule 
 for calculating yield of cheese from fat test of .jiiilk, 14. Specific 
 gravity of, 12. Value of for Swiss cheese, 288. 
 
 Fat Globules. — Number and size, 11. 
 
 Fermentation. — Gas in brick cheese, 326. How kept up in curd, 141, 
 149. In curing process, 197. In Limburger cheese, 339, 341. In 
 manufacture of cottage cheese, 364, 366. 
 
 Ferments. — Two general classes of, 71. 
 
 Flats.— Hoops for, 259. How boxed, 206, 207. Pressing in Cheddar 
 
 hoops, 258. Size of, 181. Twins and singles, 206. 
 Flavor.— Of Brick cheese, 312, 313; Edam, 342; Limburger, 331; Swiss, 
 
 277. Three causes for in milk. 25. In cheese due to amides, 197. 
 
 Fraser Hoop. — Bandage, how held in, 181. Followers and fibro.us 
 ring 184. 
 
 Glaesler Cheese.— Cause of, 283. Grade of, 280, 281. 
 
 Health. — Effect of rubber boots and wet floors on, 42. 
 
 Helmer. — Automatic pressure press, 181. 
 
 Hoops— Do not pound, 189. For Edam, 253. For flats, 259. Fraser, 
 181. Number required, 258. Wilson, 187. 
 
 Hydrochloric Acid.— Use of in Cottage cheese, 370. 
 
200 Cheese Making. 
 
 Judging Cheese.— Color, 219. Corky cheese, 222. Cracked, 225. Eng- 
 lish standard, 221. Flavor, 216. Gross appearance, 217 Hard and 
 crumbly, 223. How sample is taken, 215. Poison, 226. Salt, 218. 
 Rusty spots, 227. Swiss, 281. Texture, 217. Weak bodied or 
 pasty, 224. Wisconsin Cheese Makers' Standard, 221. Wisconsin 
 Dairymen's Standard, 215. 
 
 Kettles.— For Swiss cheese, 287. How filled, 288. Wooden brake, 294. 
 
 Lactometers.— Board of Health, 65. Quevenne, 64. 
 
 LiMBURGER Cheese.— Characteristics of, 331. Curing, 339. Draining 
 curd, 336, 337. Origin of, 330. Quality of milk required, 332. Salt- 
 ing, 338. Setting milk and cooking curd, 334, 335. Shipping, 340. 
 Utensils used, 333. 
 
 Marketing Cheese.— Brick, 328. Cheddar, 208. Cottage, 371. Edam, 
 361. Limburger, 340. Swiss, 308, 309. 
 
 Milk.— Absorption of flavors in, 27: Aeration of, 26, 33. Bacterial in- 
 fection of, 28. Care of, 32. Cause of souring, 28. Composition of, 
 2. Cooling of, 37. Constituents of in curd and whey, 16. Effect of 
 food upon, 26. Fore and strippings, analysis of, 23. How lifted, 
 261. Man's use of, 3. Purpose of, 1. Quality required for brick, 
 313, 314. Secretion of, 23. Specific gravity of, 64. Three causes of 
 bad flavors in, 25. Time of secretion, 24. Varieties of bacteria in, 29. 
 
 Moisture in Air of Curing Room.— Brick, 325. Cheddar, 201, 204. 
 Limburger, 339. Swiss, 303. Measure for, 202, 203. Supply, 205. 
 Regulation of^jn Cottage cheese, 368. 
 
 Niszler Cheese.— Cause of, 280. Grade of, 281. 
 
 Paraffine. — Use of for coating cheese, 214. 
 
 Para Casein.— Cheese curing, 197. 
 
 Peptones — 197. 
 
 Pin-Holey Curds. — How caused, 144. Treatment of, 144, 165, 166. 
 
 Poison Cheese. — How caused, 226. 
 
 Presses.— Helmer, 181. Required, 258. Sprague, 181. Tightening the, 
 185. Upright, 181. 
 
 Pressing Cheese.— Block Swiss, 299. Brick. 323. Drum Swiss, 298. 
 Edam, 354, 355. Limburger, 337. Packages used, 181. Tempera- 
 ture for, 179, 180. 
 
 Racks. — How made, 140. How used, 141. Turning curd on, 143. 
 
 Records. — Form for, 196. 
 
 Rennet. — Action dependent on three factors. 81. A powerful agent, 83. 
 Effect of acid on, 79. Effect of heat on, 77. Extract brands to be 
 preferred, 76; how prepared, 75; not alike, 80, 110. For fast and 
 slow curing cheese, 118. Inexhaustible, 78. Quantity required for 
 brick cheese, 315. Should be diluted, 119. Source of, 74. 
 
Analytical Index. 201 
 
 Rennet Action.— Effect of acid and alkali on, 92; of anaesthetics on, 96; 
 of boracic acid on, 100; formaline on, 100; salt on, 94; strength of 
 rennet on, 98; temperature on, 81, 95; of watered milk on, 92. 
 Soluble calcium salts required for, 99. Thermal destruction point 
 of, 97. 
 
 Rennet Test. — Discovered by Harris, 82. Errors to be avoided with 
 Marschall test, 90. For Edam, 351. Glass graduates for, 84. Mar- 
 schall tests vary, 89. Of milk for brick cheese, 314. Practical ap- 
 plication of, 110, 111. The Marschall test, 87. The Monrad test, 85. 
 
 Rusty Spots. — Description of, etc., 227. 
 
 Salt. — Amount required, 172, 173. Chemical composition of, 168. Con- 
 sidered in judging, 218. Effect upon cheese, 171, 172. How applied, 
 174, 175. How tested, 170. Impurities in. 170. Where obtained, 169. 
 
 Salting the Curd. — Brick, 318, 324. Condition of curd for, 167. Edam, 
 357. Limburger, 338. Swiss cheese, in brine, 301; with dry salt, 302. 
 Temperature for, 176. 
 
 Scale Boards. — For Cheddar cheese, 207. 
 
 Scale Pepsin.— Substitute for rennet. 73, 120. 
 
 Score Cards.— For Cheddar cheese, 215, 220. 
 
 Setting the Milk.— Brick, 316; for Cheddar cheese. 118; Cottage, 368; 
 Edam, 351; Limburger, 334; Swiss, 289. Temperature for, 118. 
 
 Shrinkage. — In curing, 212. Septic tank, 251. 
 
 Sink. — For washing, how made. 260. 
 
 Solids of Milk. — Not fat, 2; total, 2. 
 
 Sprague. — Automatic adjustable gang press, 181. 
 
 Starter. — Definition of, 112. For Brick cheese, 314; Edam, 345: Swiss, 
 285. How to select one, 113, 115. Lactic ferment, 114. 
 
 Stirring the Curd.— How done, J32, 292. 295. On racks, 162. Uten- 
 ' sils for, 133, 134. Why done, 129 
 
 Sub-earth Ducts. — Electric fans for, 244. Number and size of tiles, 
 245. Principle of, 243. Use of a well for, 244. 
 
 Sugar of Milk. — Character of, 9. Use of in medicine and as food, 9. 
 
 Sweet Curd. — Kinds, 273. 
 
 Swiss Cheese.— Blind, 280. Block and drum, 275. Block Swiss, 304. 
 Boxing, 309, 310. Cellars required. 306. Characteristics, 273. Color, 
 279. Cutting curd for', 289-293. Description of. 275. Eyes, 278. 
 Flavor, 277. Glaeslers, 283. Grades of, 280, 281. Handling on 
 shelves, 305, 307. How tried. 281. Kettles for, 287. Length of 
 curing period, 308. Niszler, 281. Quality, how determined, 276. 
 Rennet test for, 284. Salting of, 302. Selection of milk for, 282. 
 Setting milk for, 289. Starting eyes, 303. Texture, 278. Use of 
 starter for, 285. Where made, 274. 
 
202 Cheese Making. 
 
 Temperature. — Different degrees of for curing, 198. For cooking- 
 Brick, 316; Cheddar, 131. Cottage, 369; Edam, 351; Limburger, 355; 
 Swiss, 295. For curing— Brick, 325; Cheddar, 198, 199; Edam, 360; 
 Limburger, 339; Swiss, 303, 306. For Rennet test, 85. 
 
 Testing Milk. — Apparatus for, 262. Babcock test, 54. Committee for, 
 268. Composite sample, 67. Detecting watered milk, 66. Rapid 
 progress in, 53. Sampling tube, 68. 
 
 Texture— Of Brick cheese, 312, 313. 327; Cheddar, 217; Edam, 342; 
 Limburger, 331; Swiss, 278. 
 
 Tyrotoxicon. — In poison cheese, 226. 
 
 Udder. — Structure of, 22. 
 
 Utensils. — Brick cheese draining boards, 321. Draining table, 320. 
 Molds, 319. Curd rakes, 133, 134. Curd sink, 147. 148. Herrick's 
 curd cutter, 142. Horizontal curd knife, 124. Hygroscope, 202. 
 Kind and care of, 39, 40. Perpendicular curd knife, 127. Psychrome- 
 ter, 203. Scrubbing brushes, etc., 45. Swiss curd stirrer, 292. Swiss 
 harp, 290. Wooden kettle brake, 294. 
 
 Vats.— Size of, 256. How lined, 257. 
 
 Washing Cheese. — In cold storage, 193. 
 
 Washing Curd, 145. 
 
 Weak Bodied Cheese. — Cause of, 135, 150. 
 
 Weighing Cheese.— Cheddar, 208. Weights, how marked, 209, 210. 
 
 Whey. — Butter, 311. Composition of, 17, 18. From Swiss cheese, 20. 
 How elevated, 254. Loss of fat in, 19. Tanks, 253. 
 
 Young Americas. — How boxed, 206. Size of, 181. 
 
Elements of Dairying 
 
 IS AN ILLUSTRATED BOOK BY THE 
 SAME AUTHOR AS "CHEESE MAKING" 
 
 The subjects treated in the eleven chapters are 
 as follows: 
 
 I. Historical and Introductory. 
 
 II. The Secretion of Milk. 
 
 III. Water and Solids of Milk. 
 
 IV. Milk Fat. 
 
 V. Milk Solids not Fat. 
 
 VI. The Physical Properties of Milk. 
 
 VII. Butter and Cheese. 
 
 VIII. Contamination of Milk. 
 
 IX. Testing Cows, 
 
 X. Market Milk. 
 
 XL Dairy Refrigeration. 
 
 IT IS PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR . 
 
 Any Dairy Supply House or Book Dealer can furnish 
 it (post paid) for $1.00. 
 
This book is a preservation facsimile. 
 
 It is made in compliance with copyright law 
 
 and produced on acid-free archival 
 
 60# book weight paper 
 
 which meets the requirements of 
 
 ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992 (permanence of paper) 
 
 Preservation facsimile printing and binding 
 
 by 
 
 Acme Bookbinding 
 
 Charlestown, Massachusetts 
 
 2006