(Ulir i. m. Mill iCtbrara North (Earolina g>tatp Initiprfiity SB453 H7 THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE DATE INDICATED BELOW AND IS SUB- JECT TO AN OVERDUE FINE AS POSTED AT THE CIRCULATION DESK. THE GARDEN BLUEBOOK THE GARDEN BLUEBOOK A Manual of the Perennial Garden By LEICESTER BODINE HOLLAND ILLUSTRATED Garden City New York Doubleday, Page & Company 1927 Copyright, 191S, by DOUBLEDAY, PaGE & CoMPANY ALL RIGHTS RESERVED PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES AT THE COUNTRY LIFE PRESS, GARDEN CITY, N. Y. To My Sister LUCY And Her Garden By the Sea ^AS-i THE GARDEN BLUEBOOK INTRODUCTORY "1^ XOW there are Ornaments also without, as Gardens, FountainSy ^^ Groves, Conservatories of rare Beasts, Birds, and Fishes. JL ^ Of which ignoblcr kind of creatures, zve ought not (Saith our greatest Master among the Sons of Nature*) childishly to despise the Contemplation; for in all things that are natural, there is ever something that is admirable. Of these external delights a word or two. " First, I must note a certain contrariety between building and gar- dening: For as Fabricks should be regular, so Gardens should be irregular, or at least cast into a very wild Regularity.'' So writes the gentle knight. Sir Henry Wotton, in his little treatise on the Elements of Architecture, and so must we conceive our gardens of to- day; to have them share in the quiet dignity and quaint charm of those "various entertainments of his scent and sight'' which delighted him in his seventeenth century England. "Cast into a wild Regularity," there is the problem of garden composi- tion. And indeed it is a problem, for the garden must be a bouquet, not like those the children pick, unchosen flowers massed as they come, leaf- less and choking in the little hand, but thoughtfully and graciously ar- ranged with choice of color and plant form well studied, and here and there, between and behind the brilliant blossoms, strong clumps and masses of foHage to rest the eye and give a setting to our garden pictures. Many books have been written on color in the flower garden, but few, if any, on foliage in the flower garden, and to my mind that is almost half the battle. Fill the herbaceous border to a third or almost a half of its area with shrubs — Spiraea, Deutzia, bush Honeysuckle, Azalea, Kerria, etc., or even Barberry or Privet — and with perennials that hold fine solid clumps of foliage throughout the year, such as Peonies or Dictamnus; and if these be arranged to give a pleasing silhouette and to group well in their "wild regularity," you may fill the other space with Petunias and Scarlet •Aristotle lib. i cap. 5. 2 THE GARDEN BLUEBOOK Sage, or what you will, still you will find it very hard to spoil the picture. And on the other hand, the choicest flower composition that you can de- vise will profit all the more by the space and background of green that you give to it. But though the background be one half the garden composition it is by far the easiest half; for all or almost all we have to consider there is size and shape. Color and texture of foliage is of secondary importance, and all these factors are practically constant throughout the year, while blossoming may almost be ignored; whereas in the floral half of our com- position we have constantly to consider factors of color and height, which change with every week from early spring to fall. A spot that is mag- nificent in July may be a desert in August unless the garden is wisely planned. In this I am assuming, of course, that our garden is one of per- ennials or at least is chiefly such, annuals being used only here and there to fill in gaps where, as it were, our plants have played us tricks, for the perennial garden besides being the most enduring and, when once estab- lished, the cheapest and easiest to tend, is also the most symphonic, if I may use the term, in that its harmony is not constant, but resolves con- tinually from one color picture to another in a melody of bloom. To compose a symphony one must carry in one's mind the qualities and possibilities of all the instruments in the orchestra, and to compose a garden symphony one should be able to say just what plants will be blooming at each point in the summer's progress and what the height and color of each will be. It may be possible to do this in one's mind, but certainly not without years of intimate experience in garden tending; and for us, laymen, who wish to devise each his own personal symphony, it is hopeless; and so we have recourse to flower Hsts which tell us what there is that is white, which blooms in June, and so on; and mostly we pore over the catalogues of nurserymen, hunting for the note which will complete the particular harmony our imagination pictures. As an aid to arranging flower harmonies and flower sequences the accompanying charts (see inserts, front cover) have been prepared. They do not by any means include all the herbaceous perennials that are good, nor should all those here given be used in any one garden. As a matter of fact, it is hard to have too few varieties in a border. So long as the bloom is continuous and the harmonies good, the fewer the kinds and the larger the masses the better. A natural spirit of curiosity and that collector's mania which we all possess is only too apt to make our beds herbaria rather than gardens. But there are a great many INTRODUCTORY 3 good harmonies possible, and different situations call for different plants to fit them, so besides those which are preeminently the garden favorites, many other well-deserving plants have been included, to supply, if possible, some capable candidate to fill each particular vacancy that may arise. HOW TO USE THE CHARTS In arranging the charts the plants have been placed in the order of their heights, beginning with the tallest, for this is the first quality that concerns us in our garden pictures. If we want something for the back of the border we use the top part of the Hst; if something for an edg- ing, the bottom end. The last column to the right indicates by the length of the black bars the average heights of the various plants. Of course, this is necessarily only an approximation, for the height of any plant will vary, with a range of two or more feet for the taller ones, according to the soil and situation; and even the same individual specimen may change considerably from year to year. But in any case the order of height here given will be always very nearly the same, and that is the thing that most concerns us. Next in order of importance come color and the season of bloom, and these will be found indicated in the columns of colored bars on the green background. Here also there is of necessity an approximation, the dif- ferent flowers on the same plant may vary perceptibly in color, and many flowers comprise several colors within themselves. The ordinary Daisy, for example, is both white and yellow, but at a little distance the white so predominates that the yellow centre is lost. Therefore the color given on the chart is the color which a mass of each flower in question will usually present when seen from a little distance. Some of the color patches are graded, ranging, say, from pink to white and then to blue; this signifies that that particular flower can be had in any one of the tints included in that color scale. As for the period of bloom given, that is calculated for the neighborhood of Philadelphia, latitude 40 degrees north, and, roughly, the season for any point of the Atlantic States may be calculated by pushing it back six days for each degree farther north or forward for each one farther south. Thus New York City would be about five and Boston fifteen days later, and Washington about a week earlier. In any locality, however, the sequence and approximately the length of bloom here given will hold good, and that again is the important thing. Now suppose our garden picture should require a plant of medium height blooming late in July and blue in color. The column headed 4 THE GARDEN BLUEBOOK JULY will give us all the plants blooming in that month; that section of it between four and two feet high will include all those of medium height and we find at once that No. 79, Platycodon, is the only one that will answer. Having found our plant, we move to the right to those columns between the season and height columns, and here we will find indicated by the presence or absence of a black spot whether our plant will grow well in sun, partial shade, or shade, or in two or more such situations; and whether it is fragrant or not. Now while all the plants given can be grown in the ordinary border with little trouble, some are so constituted that they will thrive in sand and drought (though presumably doing better under kinder circum- stances), and others do not mind how wet their roots may be. These are marked under the headings DRY and WET and by running down these columns you can find at once all the plants suitable for naturalizing on dry banks or by the water side, but also remember they do not abso- lutely demand these situations. Lastly, we have a column indicating which of our plants are suitable also for the rock garden. When all this is done and we know that we have something that fits all our requirements we look to the left, and there we find the names of this something. CONCERNING NAMES I might almost say that the names, too, are approximate only. The English names are often legion as can be seen under the individual de- scriptions of the plants in the text of this book, and as but one could be given for each plant it had to be the one "approximately" most used. The same is true to a less extent of the Latin names, for the botanists have wrangled considerably over what to call some of these friends of ours, and even when they agree we frequently find that the nurserymen com- monly use a name quite different. So when there has been much diver- gence of opiniori, that form of the name most in common usage has been chosen. In several cases it is not botanically correct, but it will help us to find our candidate in the catalogues, and that, for the third time, is the im- portant thing. The most approved botanical name, where not the one used in the chart, will be found indicated by an asterisk in the text descriptions. THE SIGNS USED If in front of the Latin name a little dagger be found, it means that the plant in question will hold its foliage and be quite presentable after bloom- ing, but it will count as a mass of green of considerably less height than INTRODUCTORY 5 when in bloom. If two daggers be found, it means either that the plant dies to the ground after blooming or that its foliage becomes unsightly; in any case that the plant or the spot it occupied must be concealed by something else planted in front. While those lucky ones which are free from daggers may be relied upon to form presentable masses of green of nearly the full flowering height throughout the season. Lastly, in some cases an asterisk is placed in front of the number attached to the plant. This indicates that the plant in question is not strictly a hardy perennial. Thus: No. I, Althaea; No. 31 and No. 32, Anchusa; No. 40, Digitahs pur- purea; No. 127, Aquilegia caerulea; No. 128, Dianthus barbatus; and No. 136, Papaver nudicaule, while technically all perennials rarely live or do well for more than two seasons. Althaea, Digitalis, and Dianthus, how- ever, self-sow so readily that, unless one is particular about the color of the flowers, they may be relied upon to propagate themselves. No. 44, Cam- panula Medium, is always a biennial, and must be resown each year to pro- vide yearly bloom. It is the only plant included which has no technical right in the list, but is so popular and valuable that an exception was made in its case. No. 40, Lilium auratum, is a hardy perennial but the bulb is short-lived and usually dies out in two or three years. No. 5 5, Montbretia, No. 83, Tritomia, and No. 85, Alstroemeria, are hardy perennials south of Philadelphia if given protection in winter, but in colder climates must be treated like Dahlias, lifted and wintered indoors. The Latin names are the guides by which, having located a plant of the desired characteristics on the charts, we may refer to the text for sup- plementary information as to its habit in flower and foliage etc., with notes on its culture and propagation. These text descriptions are ar- ranged in the alphabetical order of the Latin names, the numbers ap- pended being for reference from the text to the chart. DESIGNING THE GARDEN Having now at our fingers' ends this knowledge of our instrumental possibilities, let us see what is the best way to go about buildmg up the changing harmonies of our garden plan. Individual tastes and fancies enter naturally into any artistic work, and probably nowhere do they make themselves so strongly felt as in garden planning. This is altogether as it should be, for in some ways the garden is a more intimate and personal thing even than the house itself. In a great many cases it is planned, and to a large extent executed and tended, by the owner himself or perhaps more often by the owner herself; whereas, with the house, its con- 6 THE GARDEN BLUEBOOK ception, execution, and maintenance depend almost wholly on the ideas and abilities of architects, builders, plumbers, paperers, and a whole world of necessary outsiders. But unless we are proven artists of great abihty we will do well to guide these tastes and fancies of ours by certain rules which the professional artists have proclaimed, and we will do well also to remember that experience often teaches ways of attacking problems which are much easier, though often quite different, from the instinctive ways. In all forms of artistic composition this is the first and greatest rule: Consider the composition as a whole to begin with, and do not concern yourself with details, until the large masses have been completely and sat- isfactorily arranged. In gardening this rule runs counter to most natural tendencies; we are much more apt to be interested in some particular flower that we love, than in questions of mass and grouping; some of us even go so far as to be more interested in the literary associations of the names than in the actual flowers. But if we are to achieve a really artistic result, we must sternly suppress these natural tendencies until the serious business of large composition is settled. This applies to any border larger than the very smallest, for if it be too small for anything over four feet high it may still be large enough for Azaleas and Peonies, and even the difference in mass between Gypsophila and Platycodon is important, if the latter be the most massive plant of our assortment. If, therefore, we were laying out grounds of considerable size, I would say, first, plant the trees, then the shrubs, then the perennials, and lastly, bulbs, bedding plants, and annuals. Do not merely plan all these and then start by planting perennials, but actually plant them in the given order. If funds will not warrant putting in trees and perennials the same year, do without the perennials. For, in the first place, the trees grow so much more slowly that they need the head start; in the second place, if they are not put in at the beginning, one thing and another may delay their planting from year to year, the composition all this while suffering for lack of what should have been its dominant note; and in the third place, every plan will require certain changes as it is developed, and if the perennials are planted first the location of the trees will probably be changed to suit the flowers, instead of the other way around; with a final result quite different, and probably very much inferior, to what was orig- inally intended. A SAMPLE PLAN To exemplify these principles in detail, suppose we have a garden to be planted. We will leave aside all consideration of trees, assuming that part INTRODUCTORY 7 of the plan to have been settled, and study solely the composition of the hardy herbaceous border, which is the immediate subject of this book. Let us assume that our border is six feet wide, with access from one side only. It might be eight or ten feet wide if it could be reached from both sides, or it might be as narrow as four feet (less than that is hardly suffi- cient for perennials), but six feet is a good average. We will also assume that this border is fairly long, but for our purposes we will only consider a stretch of twenty feet, remembering, however, that it continues on at each end. riA5o Plant] Mq- PL AH and Ellvatiom. The first thing to do is to get some "cross-section" paper, conveni- ently divided off into little squares; these we can call any size we like. In the accompanying sketches they are supposed to be one foot each way. Now having laid off our plot we proceed to plant the "big things" first. We will put down "Shrub A" and "Evergreen B" and two Peonies "A & B" grouped in a "Wild regularity," and we will arrange them so that in elevation, as seen in the upper drawing, they 8 THE GARDEN BLUEBOOK will form a pleasing mass composition (see above). Just what "Shrub A" and "Evergreen B" are does not concern us at present; all we are interested in is their size and shape, which we know will be constant throughout the season. A few evergreens, whether flowering or not, are invaluable in a border, aside from the solidity of their foliage, on account of their beauty in winter when the rest of the garden is waste. There is about them that air of enduring permanency in the ebb and flow of the flower tides which our imagination craves, and by this contrast they satisfy our artistic sensibilities. The Peonies also we locate now, for their hand- some deep green foliage provides constant soHd masses throughout the summer, and as our planning proceeds they can be changed to Dictamnus if it is found desirable when the question of their bloom is considered. We have already occupied about a third of our planting space with foUage, but quite aside from the fact that there are few perennials so beautiful in bloom and easy of culture as Peonies, the space could in no way be better used than for this rich setting of green. After the shrubbery, the next thing is to consider those plants which, though not constant throughout the year, are biggest; obviously these are the tall perennials which are to be placed at the back of the border. Of these we will put in one patch of Hollyhocks (Althaea rosea) and two of Larkspur (Delphinium). The Delphinium in the central patch will grade in height by planting Delphinium Belladonna (No. 47 on the chart) at one end toward the front and at the other and behind, the taller Hybrids (No. 10 on the chart). All the varieties of Delphinium combine beautifully in color, and the varying shades of blue and violet in such a combination give much greater brilHancy than a solid mass of a single variety would. Of course the Althaea and Delphinium will not be in the height of their glory at the same time, but as we will want each in its due season we will locate them now to be sure that they are there when the proper times come. So much for our background; now let us consider month by month the changing pictures that we are to construct within and against this setting. At this point it is necessary to combat another natural tendency. Naturally one thinks of a garden, first as it will be in early spring, then as it will develop through the summer and on to the coming of frost; but if we reverse this course and consider our garden first in fall and last in spring, we will arrive much more easily at our final plan. For a glance at the charts will show that flowers over four feet high are extremely rare before July, while almost everything that blooms in May or earher is less than a foot and a half in height. Consequently if INTRODUCTORY 9 we are to locate the tall plants first we must start with the fall and work forward. Another good reason for this method is that while many plants become unsightly after their season is past, all of them are presentable up to their time of bloom. So we can be assured that every late-blooming plant we place will present a spot of green throughout the season. To begin then with October. The splendor of the late fall garden lies, as every one knows, in the Asters and the Chrysanthemums, so we will start with a sufficient quantity of these to form a good October composi- OCT05LR.- Plan and Elevation. tion. The Delphinium may be blooming sparsely then, as it often does, so we will choose the blue-violet New England Aster (No. 20) to go with it, and our Chrysanthemums shall be yellow and bronze. The tall Asters are rather thin and scrawny in their lower stems, so we will tuck them in behind Peony "A" which will partially screen them. One patch of Chrys- anthemums we will place where their handsome foliage will hide the Delphinium when it is cut down after its first bloom, and another will serve to shield the lower leaves of the Althaea, often brown and withered lO THE GARDEN BLUEBOOK from fungus disease. This gives us the composition in blue, violet, and gold, indicated by the sketch for October, and few gardens can show a better display at a time when frost is in the air. Next for September. The chart shows us that of those plants al- ready located, the Asters will be blooming throughout this month, while the Delphinium will give its second crop in the first half and the Chrysan- themums will come into bloom toward the latter half of the month; there- fore we will draw these in, marking the Asters strongly in elevation and the others more lightly. Obviously this is not enough for our September picture, so to replace the gold provided in October by the Chrysanthe- mums we will put in a tall yellow clump between the Delphinium and the evergreen. Running down the chart under the heading September, we find No. i6, Helenium autumnale,'var. superbus. This will do admirably, and to give a dash of emphasis, we will put in front a couple of bulbs of No. 5, Lilium Henryi, through whose tall orange pyramids of INTRODUCTORY ii flowers the Helenium will show beautifully. In front of the Chrysanthe- mum we might put something blue or something white. White is especi- ally grateful in August, which we will have to consider next, and white will help us to resolve our harmony from one of blue and gold into one of other colors. So looking down the list of plants under two and a half feet high — the height of the Chrysanthemums — we find that No. 89, Achillea; No. loi, Phlox sufFruticosa; No. 120, Dwarf Platycodon; and No. 146 Campanula carpatica are all white and bloom in August and September. The first two are rather high and the last one rather low, so we will choose the Platycodon, a most delightful flower, as its picture will prove to you if you are not already acquamted. The other whites we can use, too, to good advantage, so we will put the Phlox — the white variety Miss Lingard is one of the finest of all the Phloxes — around Peony "B," and the evergreen where it will not overlap anything, and the little Campanula carpatica where its dainty bells will grace the front, at the left hand of our composition. This gives enough for our September picture; white in the foreground, brilliant orange and yellow in the centre, with a suggestion of violet and blue showing toward the back. Miss Lingard, the chart says, will be bloommg also in October, but her white blossoms will not harm the late fall picture in the least, and, rather, will fill up the composition on the right-hand side. For August the chart shows us that of those we have already planted, the Althaea, the Campanula, the Platycodon, the Helenium, and the Lilium Henryi will all be in bloom throughout the month, with the Phlox pro- ducing its second crop of flowers toward the end of this period. Yellow and white are our colors. The Hollyhocks we might make also yellow, but to lead up to a change in harmony let us plant them in shades of red and pink, and put in front a patch of the pink Physostegia, leading down to the little white Hairbells in the foreground. To balance this pink tone another patch of pink in the foreground to the right would be desirable. The chart gives for low-growing pink or red flowers blooming in August, No. 135, Heuchera; No. 140, Callirhoe; and No. 164, Tunica. The Callirhoe continues into September and October, which is not altogether desirable, while the others lead us toward the spring, so either of these would be more suitable than the Callirhoe. In fact, either would be altogether suitable, but since we have to make a choice, suppose we decide on the Heuchera. That then will fill our composition for August. July is of all the months the season of greatest bloom. The chart shows us that we have already on our plan the Althaea, Physostegia, and 12 THE GARDEN BLUEBOOK Campanula to the right, in shades of pink and white; in the centre the white Platycodon with the blue Delphinium behind it in its fullest glory at the beginning of the month; and to the left the coral Heuchera, with Delphin- ium and white Phlox also behind it at the beginning, though toward the end of the month the Heuchera will stand alone. To fill this hole we need some- thing of middle height that will harmonize with both coral and blue. Something white would do, but better still will be the graceful pale buff spikes of the Digitalis ambigua. No. 73, so that is what we will use here. August. - Flam and Elevation . As far as quantity of bloom goes we do not need anything more for July, but the three groups do not seem very well knit together. Suppose, therefore, we put a spot of something in front of Shrub "A" and another spot toward the front of Peony *' B." White or pink these should be, and from two to three feet high. The chart shows us half a dozen or more things that we might use, and of these we will choose for the left-hand spot a clump of Japanese Iris (No. 51) which will give a strong vertical accent, INTRODUCTORY 13 and for the other one, white peach-leaf Campanula (No. 94), the slender stems of which will not conceal the Platycodon behind, and with which its dainty white bells will accord very well. The Iris might be white also, for there are Japanese Irises, as the chart shows, which are practically white, but for a combination with the pink behind it and the two whites on either side of it, one of the deep wine-colored forms would probably be more effective; so we will decide on such a one. Our composition now consists of shades of rose and red to the left, changing through deep pur- JuLY- Plan aimdLlevatiom. ple-claret to blue and white in the middle, and this again is toned to the right hand by bufF and a touch of coral. June shows in bloom the Digitalis, Heuchera, and Phlox subulata on the left, throughout the month; the peach-leaf Campanula in the centre for all but the first week, and the Delphiniums, Iris, and Cam- panula carpatica for the latter half. This would leave the centre and left-hand side of our section of border quite bare of bloom in the first half of 14 THE GARDEN BLUEBOOK the month were it not for the Peonies, which, commencing in May, con- tinue until the Iris and Delphinium are well started. And though numer- ically the number of plants in bloom may seem small even with this rein- forcement, yet such is the magnificence of the Peonies that two good plants alone would be sufficient to make beautiful many feet of garden border. So having only a little space along the front unplanted, which we will probably need for May flowers, we will be satisfied with what we already have for June. What color our Peonies are to be is yet unde- JurSEl-PLAlS AND ELEVATION. cided. I would suggest a rose pink for Peony "A" to blend with our deep claret Iris, and a rather strong red for Peony "B" to give weight to the white which surrounds it. The following pages will tell us what varieties will furnish these colors. In May the Peonies do not commence until about the third week and none of the other things we have planted will be blooming at all, so we must at once fill in what space is still left to us. This seems to INTRODUCTORY 15 divide into tliree spots, all right along the front, which are therefore es- pecially suited for plants a foot or less high. Fortunately almost all our May flowers come with this limit, so we have a considerable choice. If we decide to put in plants that will bloom in April also, as would seem wise, we narrow our choice, but there are still left plenty to fill our needs. The left-hand spot, closed in as it is by the Ins, by shrub "A," and by Peony "A," seems ideally suited for Primroses, and though these do not bloom through all of May they will last almost until Peony time. Siebold's May.- Plan and Elcvation. ~ y£;M^ M^¥l.. or the Polyantha Primrose may be used (No. 152, No. 153) or the splendid new hybrid, Veris superba (No. 154). If we should fill the other spaces with dwarf Phlox (No. 150) or dwarf Iris (No. 103), both violet, one of the yellow forms would be best here; but as neither the Phlox nor the Iris last till the end of May, let us use Primula Sieboldii to give our lavender in this spot, and fill the other spaces with Arabis (No. 159) and Alyssum (No. 139); white and yellow. Lavender, yellow, and white then along the i6 THE GARDEN BLUEBOOK front row, with the pink and red Peonies coming in when the lavender is gone, is the composition of our May garden and, with the exception of the Peonies, of our April garden also. One last thing we have to decide, and that is the nature of Shrub "A". What it is to be depends on when we will most need its bloom. Obviously May is this time, unless we are especially anxious to start off with a rush in April. There are several May blooming shrubs which would answer, and of these I choose the low-growing Mock Orange (Philadelphus Lemoinei), though Deutzia would serve equally well, and the beautiful bush rose, Mme. Georges Bruant, though commencing a little later, would give us white fragrant flowers until frost. So then, as we have planned it, this httle strip of border will furnish us the whole summer long, from May-day almost to Thanksgiving, with a rich display of bloom, constantly changing as the seasons pass — in mass, in color, and in form of flowers — but always complete and harmonious. And the best of it is, these plants are all perfectly hardy and year after year will greet us in their due order without any other service on our part than the cultivating, spraying and mulching, and occasional dividing which all gardens demand. Of course this particular scheme could be varied in a great many ways. This is where individual taste and fancy come in. For example: sup- pose instead of Peony "B" we should decide to put in a plant of Dictam- nus (No. 72), white, then; as this blooms in June and July the patch of Campanula persicifoHa in front is obviously unnecessary and its place may be given to something which will help our early spring compositions. This latter must not make a high foHage growth and yet should cover the ground fairly well after its bloom is past, and it would also be well if it were a little higher than our edging plants. To all these requirements Anemone sylvestris (No. 126) answers perfectly; so with these two we have rearranged our pictures for April, May, June, and July, and in this way we might continue almost indefinitely. The great thing in any planning is to proceed in an orderly manner and to make each picture satisfactory be- fore we proceed to the next. After our planning is all done and the garden planted we will find in the course of the year, especially at first when our plants have not grown to full size, many spots, that may be wisely embellished with occa- sional annuals set in and taken out as occasion offers, and also many spots under shrubbery and among edgings where perennial bulbs may flaunt their dainty flowers to welcome the coming of the first spring days. But INTRODUCTORY 17 all that is another matter and Hke the "nicknacks and drapes" about the house, must wait till the house is built and furnished before we consider them. Lastly there is one more suggestion from the "curious Pencil of the Ever Memorable Sir Henry," which I wish to include. "Though other Countries," says he, "have more benefit of Sun than we, and thereby more properly tied to contemplate this delight; yet have I seen in our own, a delicate and diligent curiosity, surely without parallel among foreign Na- tions; Namely, in the Garden of Sir Henry Fanshaw, at his Seat in Ware Park; where, I well remember, he did so precisely examine the tinctures and seasons of his flowers, that in their settings the inwardest of those which were to come up at the same time should be always a little darker than the outmost, and so serve them for a kind of gentle shadow, like a piece, not of Nature, but of Jrt. So much of Gardens." THE GARDEN BLUEBOOK ACHILLEA (Named for the Greek hero Achilles, who is said to h:ivc used it to heal Telephus) Composite 17. Achillea Eupatorium {A. filipendulina) English Name: Fern-leaved yarrow. THE ORIENT JULY IARGE, slightly convex heads often five inches across, of tiny clear -/ yellow flowers, carried on erect stems four or five feet high; foliage fernlike and rather inconspicuous. Of rather coarse and weedy ap- pearance, and not suit- able for planting in small gardens, but forming con- spicuous masses of a beautiful brilliant lemon yellow which cannot be obtained with any other plant. Excellent, there- fore, for garden compo- sitions on a large scale or for naturalizing against shrubbery or in barren places. A perfectly hardy per- ennial of easiest culture in any soil; prefers dry, sunny places; usually re- quires staking. Propagate by cut- tings, seeds, or chiefly by division in spring. fmnnry ubrary N. C. State College ACHILLEA (Named for the Greek hero Achilles, who is said to have used it to heal Telephus) Composittt 88. Achillea Millefolium, var. roseum English Names: Rosy milfoil, Rosy yarrow, Thousand leaf. Thousand- leaved clover. Nosebleed, Bloodwort, Carpenter's grass. Sanguinary, Soldier's woundwort, Old-man's pepper, S. EUROPE, ASIA, N. AMERICA JULY THROUGH SEPTEMBER BROAD, flat heads of tiny pink flowers, carried on erect, leafy stems one to three feet high. Foliage fernlike, dark green, pretty and persistent, though rather inconspicuous. A plant not often used in the herbaceous border, its somewhat unrefined character, and the fre- quency with which it is found in a wild state, causing it to be gen- erally classed as a weed. Properly used, however, it is eff'ective in the herbaceous border; and is good for naturalizing in front of shrubbery or in barren places as it is not injured by drought. A perfectly hardy per- ennial, of easiest culture in any soil, even poor and dry. Prefers sun. Propagate by cuttings or by division. ACHILLEA (Named for the Greek hero Achilles, who is said to have used it to heal Telephus) Compos ila 89. Achillea Ptarmica, var. flore pleno, "The Pearl" English Names: Double Sneezewort, Sneezewort yarrow, White tansy, Goose tongue, Wild pellitory. Fair Maids of France, Seven-years' love. HORTICULTURAL VARIETY, TYPE FROM N. TEMPERATE ZONE MID-MAY TO MID-OCTOBER DOUBLE flowers in small, round, snow^-white balls, profusely borne on branching leafy stems, forming a mass of bloom one to two feet high. Foliage small and narrow, persistent, but rather inconspicuous. Good for the herbaceous border on account of its profusion of bloom; and for naturalizing by the waterside. Excellent also for cutting. The flowers should be picked con- stantly, for when past their first bloom they turn brown and present an unsightly rusty ap- pearance. A perfectly hardy per- ennial of easiest culture in any good garden soil. Thrives best in well- watered rich soil though it will stand a consider- able amount of drought. Prefers sun. Propagate by cut- tings or by division. ACHILLEA (Named for the Greek hero Achilles, who is said to have used it to heal Telephus) Composita 143. Achillea tomentosa English Names: Woolly yarrow, Woolly milfoil. THE ORIENT, ELTROPE, N. AMERICA JUNE AND JULY SMALL bright yellow flowers borne in clusters on a neat downy mat- hke plant growing eight to ten inches high. Leaves feathery, ever- green, and very pretty. Excellent as an edging for the herbaceous bor- der, though perhaps even better suited to the rock garden, as its appearance suggests a wild flower rather than a carefully cultivated garden plant. Good also for cutting A perfectly hardy per- ennial of easiest culture in any soil, even though poor and dry. Will stand drought well and prefers full sun. Propagate by cutting, by seed, or by division. rmK^TY umtAMT "' N. C State College ACONITUM (From akoniton, the Greek name for the plant) Ranunculaceie l8. Aconitum Napellus {J. pyramiddle; A. tauricum) English Names: Aconite, Monk's hood, Helmet flower, Wolf's bane, Friar's cap, Friar's cowl, Cuckoo's cap, Face in hood, Jacob's chariot, Blue rocket. EUROPE, ASIA, AND N. AMERICA AUGUST AND SEPTEMBER AN ORNAMENTAL plant with large deep purple flowers of a curi- 1\. ous helmet shape, growing in loose spikes on erect stems three to five feet high. Foliage finely divided, dark and handsome; persistent. Ex- cellent for the herbaceous border or for naturalizing against shrubbery, prefer- ably with light foliage;but should never be planted too near the kitchen gar- den or children's garden, as the root (a globular tuber), leaves, and flowers are highly poisonous. Good also for cutting. In some localities the Aconite grows to a height of seven or more feet and has to be staked or treated as a vine; in others it barely attains a height of three feet, A perennial which, though sometimes sbw in becoming established, is perfectly hardy when once it has a firm footing. Will grow in any garden soil, but a rich moist soil is preferable. Thrives in open sun, but the flowers will last longer in shady places. Propagate by division. 1 1: ■ ■ ^ 1 i !•_ 4. ' 4 4?r ■• ^^ 1 tf .1 . • tl^isfffw^^ ^ 25 ACONITUM (From akoniten, the Greek name for the plant) Ranunculaceet 19. Aconitum Napellus, var. album {A. pyramiddle, var. album; A. tauricum, var. album) English Names: White monk's hood, White helmet flower, White wolPs bane, White aconite, etc. EUROPE, ASIA, N. AMERICA AUGUST AND SEPTEMBER AN ORNAMENTAL plant with large, slightly bluish, white flowers of Ix. a curious helmet shape, growing in loose spikes on erect stems three to five feet high. Foliage finely divided, dark and handsome; persistent. Excellent for the herba- ceous border or for natu- ralizing against shrub- bery. The root, leaves, and flowers are highly poisonous. Good also for cutting. In northern localities the Aconitum grows con- siderably taller than in the south. A perennial which, though sometimes slow in becoming estabhshed, is perfectly hardy whenonce it has a firm footing. Will grow in any garden soil, but a rich moist one is pref- erable. Thrives in open sun, but flowers will last longer in shaded places. Propagate by di- vision. Var. bicolor, and var. versicolor, have large mixed blue-and-white flowers and are among the few flowers of mixed colors which are altogether pleasing. ?6 ADONIS (Named for the favorite of Venus in Greek legend, from whose blood the flower is said to have sprung) Ranuncutacetz 133. Adonis vernalis {J. apennina; A. Davurica) English Names: Vernal Pheasant's eye, Spring Adonis, Ox eye, Bird's eye. False hellebore. EUROPE APRIL THROUGH MAY IARGE, solitary yellow buttercuplike flowers carried on very leafy -> stems about one foot high. Foliage finely cut, in whorls forming dense tufts. Dies to the ground after blooming. Very lovely both in delicacy and brillance of flower and daintiness of foliage. May be efi'ect- ively used under shrub- bery to give color in early spring in spots which will later be covered up. Excellent for the front of the herbaceous border or for the rock garden. A hardy perennial of easy culture in full sun or half-shade; will grow in any good soil, but prefers a light moist earth or sandy soil, and a shady situation. Propagate by seed sown as soon as ripe, or by root division. tl AGROSTEMMA (From the Greek agros, a field, and stemma, a garland) Caryopliyllacea 84. Agrostemma Coronaria {*L'^chiis Corondria; Corondria tomentosa) English Names: Mullen pink, Dusty miller, Rose Campion, Gardener's eye. EUROPE, ASIA JUNE AND JULY IARGE circular flowers, an inch and a half across, varying from white -/ to rich crimson, borne singly on the ends of stems which fork toward the top of the plant and reach a height of one, to two and one half feet. The leaves are long and oval, somewhat like those of the mullen; leaves and stems woolly throughout, of a pale silvery color and per- sistent, though after the blooming season the plant is considerably lower than when in bloom. A common plant in old gardens and very effective for herbaceous borders or for the rock garden, the flowers, es- pecially the darker shades, forming a strik- ing contrast with the whitish foliage. A hardy perennial or self-sowing biennial of easiest culture in or- dinary garden soil. Prefers sun. Propagate by seed. *Name most approved by bo- tanical authorities. a8 AJUGA (From the Latin a, not, and jugare, to yoke; because the calyx is not bilabiate) Labiata 1 60. Ajuga reptans English Names: Bugle, Bugle weed, Carpenter's herb. Middle comfrey, Middle consound, Sicklewort, Dead man's bellows, Helfringwort, Wild mint. EUROPE MAY AND EARLY JUNE NUMEROUS small blue flowers carried in erect spikes, from six to twelve inches high, on creeping leafy stems. Foliage oval and glossy, forming a dense ground covering. A very fast-spreading creeper useful for covering shady slopes. A hardy perennial of easiest culture in any common soil; will grow in sun or shade. Propagate by seed or by division. Var. rilbra. More commonly cultivated than the type, on ac- count of its dark pur- plish leaves; its flow- ers are blue like those of the type. Var. variegata (shown in the photograph) has leaves splashed and edged with creamy yellow. Not so good as the type. 29 ALSTROEMERIA (Named for Baron Alstroemer, a friend of Linnxus) Amaryllidaceie 85. Alstroemeria chilensis English Names: Chilian lily, Peruvian lily. CHILE JULY AND AUGUST SLENDER, irregular, lilylike blossoms varying from rose to cream, carried in a loose spike on somewhat weak, leafy stems about two and a half feet high. Foliage rather slender and grayish-green, not persistent, and should be concealed after thebloomingseason. Very effective in the her- baceous border or against a background of shrub- bery. The flowers last well when cut. A delicate tuberous- rooted perennial which is usually hardy as far north as Washington, and with proper treat- ment seems regularly to survive the winters in points farther north. Should be deeply planted in a partially shaded situation. The best soil is a rather light compound of vegetable humus; or decayed cow or stable manure well worked into any light, well-drained soil will do. Alstroemerias should be liberally supphed with water at all times during growth, and in winter should be covered with leaves to a depth of eight inches or more. The surest treatment in cold climates is to lift 30 85. Alstroemeria chilensis (Continued) the tuber as soon as the foliage has died down and winter it in any place free from frost. The tubers increase rapidly and the plant may be helped by frequent division. It may also be easily propagated by seed sown in the fall and well protected in the winter; will bloom the next summer. 31 ALTHAEA (From the Greek altheo, to cure) Malvacea I. Althaea rosea English Names: Hollyhock, Althea Rose. • CHINA JULY AND AUGUST IARGE, widely open single or double flowers, five inches across, and ^ ranging in color from yellow and white through pink and red, almost to black, on a spirelike stem sometimes over seven feet high. Leaves large, rough, irregularly round and wavy edged, mostly in a clump at the base of the plant. An old garden favorite and unequalled for plant- ing in rows against walls or at the back of the her- baceous border. A hardy biennial which self-sows so readily that it is often considered a perennial. Since the middle of the last century it has been subject to a fungous dis- ease of such virulence that it has been excluded from many hardy gardens, and only now seems to be coming back into the favor it deserves. Thorough spraying early in the year, especially of the under side of the leaves where the dis- ease appears as small rust spots, is the only preventive known. Bordeaux mixture may be used or ammoniacal carbonate of copper, which will not stain the leaves. 33 I. Althaea rosea (Continued) A sunny situation should be chosen and the ground should be deeply cultivated with a considerable quantity of rotted manure well worked in. The roots should be covered with manure in the winter, and plenty of water given in dry weather. The single-flowered forms are handsomer than the double forms, and are usually of freer growth. The "Allegheny" Hollyhocks are a fine large-flowered strain, both single and double. There is a tendency in the double forms to be top-heavy, and all forms sometimes require staking. Propagate by seed (will blossom thesecondyear)or, if free from disease, from cuttings from oflFshoots. 33 ALYSSUM (The classical Greek perhaps signifying "curing blindness") Crucifera 139. Alyssum saxatile, var. compactum English Names: Rock Madwort, Golden Tuft, Basket of Gold. APRIL AND MAY SMALL, fragrant, golden-yellow flowers in compact clusters profusely borne on low, leafy, spreading stems, woody at the base, less than a foot high. Leaves small and rather slender, silvery and persistent, form- ing a compact spreading mat. Excellent for edg- ing the herbaceous border or for the rock garden, on account of its neat habit and the brilHant sheet of color it forms in early spring. Good also for cutting. If the flower stems are cut back after blooming, a second crop of blossoms may be ex- pected late in the fall or even after frost. A perfectly hardy per- ennial of easiest culture, prefers well-drained soil and a sunny situation; succeeds in very dry places. Propagate by seed, cuttings, or by division. Var. variegdtum has variegated foHage but is not so good as var. com- pdctum. H ANCHUSA (From the Greek anchouia, the ancient name of the plant and also of a red dye, "Alkanet," made from the roots) Boraginacfa 31. Anchusa italica, van Dropmore English Names : Bugloss (from Greek, meaning ox tongue), Ox tongue, Alkanet. SOUTH EUROPE EARLY MAY TO MID-JULY TRUMPET-SHAPED flowers about three quarters of an inch across, of bright gentian blue in pyramidal spikes formed of many- small flower clusters on short leafy stems, carried on upright, much- branching leafy stalks, three to six feet high. The leaves are rough and glossy, of a long pointed- oval- shape, sometimes two feet long at the bot- tom of the plant, and become unsightly after blooming. Without proper treatment the An- chusa is only a rough straggling plant with small blue blossoms, but with proper treatment it becomes a splendid bright blue pyramid, compara- ble to the Larkspur in brilliance, and blooming continuously for two or three months if not al- lowed to seed. A hardy perennial in theory; in practice the fleshy roots become hol- low as they grow old, fill with water in winter, and rot. It is best propa- gated by root cuttings two or three inches long, which should be started, right end up, in the cold-frame in October. In the spring the young plants 35 31. Anchusa italica, var. Dropmore (Continued) should be set out in deep, light, rich soil in a sunny situation, and well cultivated, giving plenty of water and, occasionally, Hquid manure. In winter they should be mulched and covered with a little cone of earth or sand to prevent water from standing about the roots. Anchusaswill bloom the second year and, if not winter-killed, the third as well. They rarely give more than two seasons of bloom. They should be cut to the ground after blooming, fertilized, and liberally watered. They may also be propagated by seed, though not so rapidly. Perry's var. is similar to the Dropmore var. but a little more robust. ANCHUSA (From the Greek anchousa, the ancient name of the plant and also of a red dye, " alkanet," made from the roots) Boraginacecz 32. Anchusa italica, var. *'OpaI" English Names: Bugloss (from Greek, meaning ox tongue), Ox tongue, Alkanet. SOUTH EUROPE MID-MAY TO MID-JULY TRUMPET-SHAPED flowers about three quarters of an inch across, of forget-me-not blue, in pyramidal spikes formed of many small flower clusters on short leafy stems, carried on upright, much-branching, leafy stalks three to six feet high. The leaves are rough and glossy, of a long-pointed, oval shape, sometimes two feet long atthebottomoftheplant, and become unsightly after blooming. With- out proper treatment the Anchusa is only a rough, straggling plant with small blue blossoms; but with proper treatment it becomes a splendid, bright blue pyramid, comparable to the Lark- spur in brilliance, and blooming continuously for two or three months if not allowed to seed. For cultivation see preceding page. Anchusas rarely give more than two seasons of bloom. They should be cut to the ground after blossoming, fertilized and liberally watered. Propagate by root, cutting (see preceding page), or more slowly, by seed. 37 ANEMONE (The Greek name, anemone, the windflower, from anemos, wind) Ranunculacea 60. Anemone japonica English Name: Japanese windflower. CHINA, JAPAN SEPTEMBER AND OCTOBER BEAUTIFUL, delicate single or semi-double flowers, two to three inches in diameter, pale rose or white with yellow centres, borne on slender branching stems two or three feet high. The leaves are much lobed and very decorative, mostly in clumps at the base of the plant. Very handsome in the herba- ceous border, among shrubbery, or in clumps under trees. The flowers are excellent for cutting. A hardy perennial of easy culture, thrives best in fresh, rather rich sandy loam, well-drained, but will do well in any gar- den soil if not allowed to suflFer from drought in summer, and if pro- tected with a light layer of leaves in winter. Will grow in full sun, but prefers a slight amount of shade. Unlike most per- ennials, it should not be disturbed when once es- tablished. Propagate by seed or by root off'shoots, best planted in the spring. The following varieties are all excellent: Var. alba. Single, pure white. 6o. Anemone japonica {fiontinued) Var. rosea. Single, purplish rose. Var. rubra. Double, red. Var. Whirlwind. Semi-double, white. Var. Queen Charlotte. Semi-double, pale silvery pink. Var. Lady Ardilaun. Single, pure white, very like var alba in flower, but having a waxy gloss to the foliage. 39 ANEMONE (The Greek name, anemone, the windflower, from anemos, wind) Ranunculacea 126. Anemone sylvestris English Name: Snowdrop windflower. EUROPE. SIBER'ii MID-APRIL THROUGH JUNE IARGE, fragrant, pure white, waxy, cup-shaped flowers, an inch and -^ a half across, carried singly or two together on slender, nodding stems one foot to a foot and a half long. Leaves fine and deeply cut. Excellent in clumps in the herbaceous border or under trees, on account of the delicate beauty of the flowers. Good also for cutting. A hardy perennial of easy culture in any good soil. Will grow in sun or shade though it prefers shade. In the garden it produces so many off- sets that unless these are removed occasionally the plant will deteriorate. Propagate by divi- sion. Var. fldre-pleno. A large double-flowered variety not so good as the type. 40 ANTHEMIS (From Anthemis the Greek name for the camomile) Composita 90. Anthemis tinctoria English Names: Golden Marguerite, Rock camomile. EUROPE JUNE THROUGH SEPTEMBER IARGE daisylike golden flowers, one to two inches across, pro- -/ fusely borne on vigorous bushy stems two to three feet high. Fo- liage finely cut, fernlike. If planted in fairly large masses it makes a fine showing, but should always be framed by plants of strong foliage as its thin stems and delicate leaves are apt to appear straggling. Excel- lent for the herbaceous border and for cut flowers, especially useful for rather dry places. A perfectly hardy per- ennial of easiest culture; will thrive in almost any soil, but needs full ex- posure to the sun. Propagate by seed or division. A. Kelwayi (or A. tinc- tdriuy var. Kelwayi) has more finely cut foliage, and flowers of a deeper yellow. Excellent. 41 ANTHERICUM (From the Greek anthos, a flower, and erkos, a hedge) Liliacea 91. Anthericum Liliastrum, var. major {""Paradisea Lilidstrum, var. major) English Name: St. Bruno's lily. HORTICULTURAL VARIETY TYPE FROM S. EUROPE EARLY MAY THROUGH JUNE FRAGRANT, white, lilylike flowers tipped with green on the outside, two inches long and two and a half inches across, borne in loose spikes on stems two to three feet high. Foliage rushlike; leaves stiff, two feet or so long, springing from the root. Charming in the herbaceous border or rock garden (as might be expected from the name, which signifies "Star-Uly from Paradise"). Excel- lent also for cut flowers. A hardy perennial of easiest culture, growing in any garden soil in sun or shade. Requires plenty of water when in bloom, and should have a covering of leaves or lit- ter in the winter. Propagate by seed or by division. The type, A. Lil- idstrum^ of which var. major is a horticultural variety, is similar but neither so large nor so floriferous. *Name most approved by bo- tanical authorities. 4« AQUILEGIA (From the Latin aquiUgus, water-drawer, not commonly said from aquila, eagle) Ranunculacea 127. Aquilegia caerulea {A. leptoceras; A. macrdntha) English Names: Rocky Mountain columbine, Long-spurred columbine. ROCKY MOUNTAINS, MONTANA TO N. MEXICO MID-MAY TO MID-JUNE IARGE sky-blue flowers varying to whitish, two and one half to three -^ inches across, with long, slender, slightly out-curving spurs, tipped at the end with greenish knobs ; carried on branching stems one to one and a half feet high. The leaves are large and handsome, divided into three-lobed leaflets, but do not last after the blooming season. Excellent massed in clumps in the herbaceous border or rock garden, and good for cut- ting. Theoretically a hardy perennial, it rarely blooms more than two or three seasons and should be treated as a bi- ennial. Of easiest culture, preferring a light sandy soil, moist but well- drained, and a sunny situation. May be propagated by seed sown in spring, but is apt not to come true to seed if there are other varieties planted near, as all Columbines hybridize very readily. Var. alba. Similar but entirely white. Var. flore-pleno. Large and showy flowers, more or less doubled, not so graceful as the type. 43 AQUILEGIA (From the Latin aquilegu -drawer, not as is commonly said from aquila, eagle) Ranunculacets 38. Aquilegia chrysantha {A. leptoceras, var. chrysdntha) English Name: Golden-spurred columbine. N. MEXICO AND ARIZONA EARLY MAY TO EARLY AUGUST NUMEROUS slightly fragrant, clear yellow flowers, two to three inches across, with rather straight, very slender divergent spurs two inches long, carried on graceful branching stems three to four feet high. Fohage dark and handsome, divided into three-lobed leaflets, and lasting well through- out the summer. Excel- lent in the herbaceous border or rock garden, and good for cutting. A hardy perennial, the most hardy of the Colum- bines, of easy culture, preferring a deep, moist, but well-drained, sandy loam, in a somewhat shel- tered situation, but with plenty of sun. Propagate by divi- sion or by seed, sown as early as possible. Var. dlha. Flowers very pale yellowor nearly white . Var. Jaeschkani. A smaller plant not ex- ceeding one and one half feet high, flowers large, yellow with red spurs, thought to be a hybrid of A. chrysdntha and A. Skinneri, hence some- times called A, Skinneri^ var. hybrida. 44 AQUILEGIA (From the Latin aquilegus. r-drawer, not as is commonly said from aquila, eagle) Ranuncula(ea 68. Aquilegia vulgaris, var. nivia grandiflora {A. vulgaris^ var. alba, A. stelldta, A. atrdta) English Names: Common European columbine, Munstead's white columbine. HORTICULTURAL VARIETY MID-MAY TO MID-JUNE TYPE FROM EUROPE AND SIBERIA APROFUSION of large pure white flowers with stout, much incurved spurs, knobbed at the end, carried on graceful branching stems from one and one half to three feet high. Foliage durable and handsome, divided into three-lobed leaflets, forming a vigorous plant of compact habit. Excel- lent in the herbaceous border or rock garden, and good for cutting. A hardy perennial of easy culture, preferring a light, fairly rich sandy loam, moist but well- drained, a somewhat shel- tered situation, and plenty of sun. Propagate best by seed. A. vulgaris^ the type of which A. vulgaris var. nivia grandiflora is a horticultural variety, has given rise to a host of varieties and hybrids ranging through many peculiar shades of pink and blue. As many of these are ugly, the white form is the only one recommended; it cer- tainly is the finest. Var. flore-pleno is a series of much-doubled forms, of a wide range of color, not so fine as the single forms. 45 ARABIS (From arabis, the Greek name meaning the "Arabian plant") Crucifem 159. Arabis albida {J, caucdsica) English Names: White rockcress, White molewort. EUROPE APRIL AND MAY VERY fragrant, pure white flowers, in small loose clusters profusely borne on stiflF, erect, branching, leafless stems six to eight inches high. Leaves long-oval, scalloped along the edges, and rather thick, growing close to the ground at the base of the flower stalks; persist- ent. Excellent for edgings in the herbaceous border, for rock gardens, or for covering bare places or steep banks. A perfectly hardy perennial of easiest cul- ture, thriving even in poor soil. Requires plenty of sun. Propagate by seed, cuttings, and by division. Var. variegatdy a va- riety with gold and green variegated foliage. Var. flore-pleno, dou- ble flowers. Neither so good as the type. ARMERIA (An old Latin name) Plumbaginacea i6l. Armeria maritima var. splendens {J. vulgaris, var. splendens) English Names: Thrift, Sea pink, Cushion pink, Seaside thrift, Sea turf. Cliff rose. Ladies' cushion. Sea cushion, Marsh or sea daisy, French or Scawfall pink. Sea gilliflower, Sea grass. EUROPE AND N. AMERICA ALONG THE SEACOAST LATE MAY TO MID-JUNE SMALL pink flowers in dense globular heads an inch and a half in diameter, borne on straight, naked stalks two to twelve inches high. Foliage in rosettes of narrow evergreen leaves close to the ground. Blooms profusely and is excellent for rock gardens and as an edging for the herbaceous border, especially on account of its low, trim evergreen foliage. A perfectly hardy perennial of easiest cul- ture even in poor soil. Will stand a considerable amount of drought. Pre- fers well-drained sandy loam and sun. Propagate by seed or division. 47 ASCLEPIAS (From AskUpios, the Greek name for JEsculapius, a legendary physician) Asclepiadacea 92. Asclepias tuberosa English Names: Butterfly weed, Pleurisy root, Canada root, Indian posy, Orange root, Orange swallow wort, Tuber root, White root, Wind root. Yellow or orange milkweed. N. AMERICA MID-JULY TO MID-AUGUST 1ARGE, fragrant clusters of brilliant yellow or orange flowers carried ^ on erect stems two to three feet high. Leaves small, elongated oval, light in color, and not particularly conspicuous. When in bloom one of the most gorgeous flowers in the garden, but should be cut down or hidden when bloom is past. Excellent for the herbaceous border, for planting in clumps among shrubs, and good for cut- ting. One of the hardiest perennials, of easiest cul- ture in any soil, grows well in dry banks and fields in full sun. Propagate by divi- sion. 48 ASTER (From the Greek aster, star) Compositce 144. Aster alpinus English Names: Dwarf aster, Alpine aster. KL'ROI'E EARLY MAY TO MID-JUNE IARGE, solitary, star-shaped flowers, bluish-purple with yellow centres, ^ borne on small-leaved stems three to ten inches high. Larger pointed-oval leaves form handsome clusters on the ground. Excellent for rock garden or for edging the herbaceous border. A perfectly hardy per- ennial of easy culture in any ordinary soil. Will grow in sun or partial shade, but should be pro- tected from very hot sun in summ.er. Propagate by seed, or generally by divi- sion, Var. speciosus. Taller and stronger than the type, with large rich pur- ple flowxrs three to four inches across. Var dlbus. Flowers pure white. Var. superbus. Showy free-flowering form with large bright blue flowers. 49 ASTER (From the Greek aster, star) Composita 69. Aster grandiflorus English Names: Michaelmas daisy, Starwort. N. AMERICA SEPTEMBER AND OCTOBER IARGE, dark bluish-violet starlike flowers, sometimes two inches in ^ diameter with yellow centres, freely borne on distinctive bushy plants two or three feet tall. The finest flower of the hardy Asters and the latest to come into bloom. Excellent for the herbaceous border or for naturalizing among shrubbery. A perfectly hardy per- ennial of easiest culture in any ordinary soil, even though poor and dry. It well repays careful atten- tion, however, for planted in good soil and given plenty of moisture, very handsome specimen plants may be developed. Should have full sun. Propagate by seed or by division. -% S^ 2 tt ^s m S '^sS^ ^^m JHB j^^ ^^ $■/' % '^ / , 5° ASTER (From the Greek aster, star) Compoiita 20. Aster novae-angliae English Names: New England aster, Michaelmas daisy, Starwort, Frost- flower, Good-bye-summer. NEW ENGLAND SEPTEMBER AND OCTOBER STAR-SHAPED flowers an inch to an inch and a half in diameter, of various shades of bluish-violet with yellow centres, covering much-branching shrubby plants three to five feet high. Foliage coarse and rather inconspicuous, especially at the bottom of the plant, which should be concealed by one of the lower-growing varieties. Striking in the herbaceous border or among shrub- bery. A perfectly hardy perennial of easiest cul- ture in any ordinary soil, even though poor and dry. Responds readily, however, to good soil and moisture. Will not en- dure much shade. Propagate by seed or by division. Var. Wm. Bowman. Large rosy-purple flow- ers somewhat taller than the type. Excellent. ASTER (From the Greek aster, star) Composita 21. Aster novae-angliae, var. roseus English Names: New England aster, Michaelmas daisy, Starwort, Frost- flower, Good-bye-summer. NEW ENGLAND SEPTEMBER AND OCTOBER STAR-SHAPED flowers an inch to an inch and a half in diameter, of clear rose color with yellow centre, covering much-branching shrubby plants three to five feet high. Foliage coarse and rather inconspicuous, especially at the bottom of the plant, which should be concealed by one of the lower-growing varieties. Striking in the herbaceous border or among shrub- bery. A perfectly hardy per- ennial of easiest culture in any ordinary soil, even though poor and dry. Responds readily, how- ever, to good soil and moisture. Will not en- dure much shade. Var. Mrs. J. F. Ray- nor, taller than the type, with vivid crimson flow- P^M^ '-^m %^*Xi€'fMiiM S2 ASTER (From the Greek aster, star) Composilti 22. Aster novi-belgii, var. F. W. Burbidge English Names: New York aster, Starwort. N. AMERICA SEPTEMBER AND OCTOBER STAR-SHAPED flowers an inch in diameter, of light pinkish lavender with yellow or brownish centres, covering much-branching shrubby plants three to four feet high. Foliage rather inconspicuous but better than that of the New England varieties; liable to mildew in cool damp weather, but without in- jury to the plant. Excel- lent for the herbaceous border, especially in front of the taller-growing varieties; or for planting among shrubbery. A perfectly hardy perennial of easiest cul- ture in any ordinary soil, responds readily,however, to good soil and moisture. Prefers full sun. Propa- gate by seed or by division. There are many other excellent named horticul- tural varieties. Among the best of the pinkish shades are: Var. Colarette. Light rose-pink, two to three feet high. Does not branch so freely as the foregoing. Var. Elsie Perry. Small bright rose-pink flowers thickly covering the plant, about three feet high. 53 ASTER (From the Greek aster, star) Compositis 23. Aster novi-belgii, var. Top Sawyer English Names: New York aster, Starwort. N. AMERICA SEPTEMBER AND OCTOBER STAR-SHAPED flowers over an inch wide, of clear Parma-violet blue with yellow or brownish yellow centre, covering much- branching shrubby plants four to five feet high. Foliage rather in- conspicuous but better than that of the New England varieties; liable to mildew in cool, damp weather but without in- jury to the plant. Excellent for the her- baceous border or among shrubbery. A perfectly hardy per- ennial of easiest culture in any ordinary soil, even though poor and dry. Responds readily, how- ever, to good soil and moisture. Prefers full sun. Propagate by seed or by division. There are many other excellent named horticul- tural varieties; among the best are: Var. Beauty of Col- wall. Large semi-double, blue-lavender flowers, free-branching, upright habit, about four feethigh. Var. Mrs. D. Evans. Large, showy azure-blue flowers, in unusually close formation, about three feet high. Var. Dwarf White Queen. Large pure white flowers. Plant of fine habit, about two feet high. 54 ASTER (From the Greek alter, star) Composita III. Aster ptarmicoides English Names: Bouquet star-flower, Yarrow-leaved starv\ort. N. AMERICA JULY AND AUGUST SMALL pure white star-shaped flowers in great profusion covering a dwarf plant of neat upright habit one to two feet high. The individual flowers are not so full or w^ell formed as in some of the other varieties, but the thick- ness with which they cover the plant makes up for the thinness in detail. Foliage finely cut and dainty. Good for the front of the herbaceous border or for cutting. A perfectly hardy per- ennial of easy culture in any ordinary soil, even though poor and dry. Responds readily, how- ever, to good soil and moisture. Prefers sun. Propagate by seed or by division. . SS ASTILBE (From the Greek a, without, and stilbe, brightness) Saxifragacea 8. Astilbe Davidii English Names: False goat's beard, Chinese astilbe. CHINA JULY AND AUGUST SMALL rosy-violet blossoms in long, very showy, feathery clusters, much like those of the Spirea in form though more lax and reaching a length of two feet, borne on branching leafy stems from four to seven feet high. Foliage compound, like that of a rose, bronzy when young, turning to a rich dark green, forming a very handsome plant. Striking in the herba- ceous border or among shrubbery. Good also for cutting. A hardy perennial of easy culture in any good garden soil. Pre- fers half-shade. Propagate by divi- sion. 5^ BAPTISIA (From the Greek bapio, to dye, referring to the coloring matter in some species) l.fguminoitT 42. Baptisia australis (B. coerulea; B. exaltdta) English Names: False indigo, Blue wild indigo, Blue rattle bush. PENNA. SOUTH TO GA. AND N. C. JUNE IARGE pea-shaped blue flowers, nearly an inch in length, in long ter- -/ minal spikes, rising from a bushy plant to a height of three to five feet. Foliage sea-green, roundish-oval leaves in groups of three. Lasts in good condition through August, after which the foliage blackens. This is undoubtedly the best species of Baptisia in cultivation on account of its good habit and showy, well-colored flowers. An excellent plant for the herbaceous border, though it should always be so placed that its unsightliness in late summer will not be notice- able. A hardy perennial of easy culture in any ordi- nary soil. Prefers free exposure to sun. Propagate by seed or bv division. 57 BELLIS L (From the low Latin bellus, pretty) Composita i66. Bellis perennis English Names: English or garden daisy, Dicky daisy, Dog daisy, Childing daisy, Bairnwort, Bone flower, Bruise wort, Consound, Gowan, Marguerite. W. EUROPE APRIL TO EARLY JUNE SOLITARY double daisy flowers, one inch or more across, with white rays tipped with pink or red, frequently so numerous as to conceal the yellow centre; on stiflf erect stems three to six inches high. Leaves in a cluster at the base of the flower stalk, some- what rough, spatulate, bright green, and persist- ent. A favorite plant for edging the herbaceous border, often used as a bedding plant and re- moved after blooming, as it is then apt to look rather unkempt. A hardy perennial of easy culture, thrives in cool, moist, rich soil, and requires sun. Should be protected by a light mulch in winter. Propagate by seed sown in the spring or by division in September. .CS BOCCONIA (Named for the Sicilian botanist and author Dr. Paolo Boccone — d. 1704) Papaveracea 2. Bocconia cordata {B. japonica) English Names: Plume poppy, Tree celandine. CHINA, JAPAN JULY SMALL pinkish-white flowers borne in great plumy terminal masses high above the handsome foliage, on vigorous leafy stems five to eight feet tall. Leaves large, dull green, heart-shaped, and much lobed, resembling in texture and form those of the blood root; persistent. After the blooming season the feathery efi'ect is pre- served by the terminal plumes of seeds, quite as decorative as the flowers. Excellent for the wild garden or shrubbery on account ofits stri Ic- ing sub-tropical eff'ect. Though extremely effec- tive also in the back of large herbaceous borders, it is there apt to prove troublesome as it spreads very rapidly by suckers. A perfectly hardy perennial of easiest culture; being a gross feeder it does best in very rich soil, but will grow anx-where. Re- quires sun. Propagate by seed, or usually by suckers, any one of which, if detached, will make a strong plant in a single season. SO BOLTONIA (Named from the English botanist, James Bolton, i8th century) Composite 9. Boltonia latisquama English Name: False camomile. KANSAS, MISSOURI LATE JULY THROUGH SEPTEMBER IARGE, rosy-lavender, asterlike flowers with yellow centres, carried -^ in profusion on tall, much-branching leafy stems, from three to six feet tall. Foliage bright green, pointed-oval, very like that of the Asters, from which this plant differs only in technical characteristics. Very at- tractive in rough places or at the back of the herbaceous border, though it sometimes proves troublesome there as it spreads very rapidly. Excellent also for cutting. Low-growing Asters, hardy Chrysanthemums, or other suitable plants should always be planted in front, as the stems do not branch near the ground and the lower part is apt to look bare and weedy. A perfectly hardy per- ennial of easiest culture in any soil, even though poor and dry, though it responds readily to good soil and does well in moist situations. Prefers sun. Propagate by division. M '^^' n 1 I^P ^^ 4t< w s ^ ^''' ' ilt^^^dS^S f 1 A-'* \* / . CALLIRHOE (The name of several women in Greek mythology) ^^alvace<^ 140. Callirhoe involucrata English Name: Poppy mallow. MINNESOTA TO TEXAS JULY THROUGH OCTOBER IARGE, mallowlike flowers varying from rose to cherry-red and -^ crimson-purple, with white centres, carried nine to twelve inches above the ground on creeping stems. Leaves rnthcr large, round in outline, and palmately divided; persistent. Excellent for b are places and for the rock garden, and good for the front of the herbaceous border. A perfectly hardy perennial of easiest cul- ture, will grow well in ordinary soil, but does best in a light rich soil. Prefers sun. Propagate by seed, from which it will blos- som the first year, also by cuttings. Var. line ar Hob a. Thrives even in very dry soil, the roots penetrat- ing to a great depth. 61 CAMPANULA (From the Latin campanula, a little bell) Campanulacea 145. Campanula carpatica English Names: Carpathian harebell, Bellflower. TRANSYLVANIA MID-JUNE TO MID-OCTOBER LARGE, erect, purple-blue cup-shaped flowers an inch and a half J across, carried on delicate branching stems six to twelve inches high. Leaves pointed-oval, somewhat heart-shaped, with wavy edges, forming very neat and dainty clumps; persistent. Un- excelled for the rock gar- den or for edging the herbaceous border, good also for cutting. A hardy perennial of easy culture, especially in the Northern States, in any rich, well-drained gar- den soil. Prefers sun. Propagate by seed, cuttings, or by division. Var. turhindta (Tur- ban bellflower). Dwarfer and more compact than the type, with purplish- blue flowers more bell- shaped and often two inches across, larger leaves, and less erect habit. Excellent. 62 CAMPANULA (From the Latin campanula, a little bell) Campanulacea 146. Campanula carpatica, van alba English Names: White Carpathian harebell, Bellflower. TRANSYLVANIA MID-JUNE TO MID-OCTOBER LARGE, erect, white cup-shaped flowers, an inch and a half across, J carried on delicate branching stems, six to twelve inches high. Leaves pointed-oval, somewhat heart-shaped, with wavy edges, forming very neat and dainty clumps; persistent. Un- excelled for the rock gar- den or for edging the herbaceous border, good also for cutting. A hardy perennial of easy culture, especially in the Northern States, in any rich, well-drained garden soil. Prefers sun. Propagate by seed, cuttings, or by division. 63 CAMPANULA (From the Latin campanula, a little bell) Campamdaceii 112. Campanula glomerata English Names: Clustered bellflower, Dane's blood. EUROPE, ARMENIA, PERSIA, SIBERIA JUNE AND JULY PURPLISH-BLUE funnel-shaped flowers one inch across in dense clusters, fifteen to twenty in the terminal heads, fewer in the axillary ones, on erect stems one to two feet high. Lower leaves rough and hairy, elongated heart-shaped, two inches long, upper ones smaller and nar- rower. The foliage lasts well after the blooming season, though it forms a plant considerably lower than when in bloom. Good for the front of the herbaceous border and for cutting. A hardy perennial of easy culture in rich, well- drained loam. Prefers sun. Propagate by seed, cuttings, or by division. Var. dahurica. Flowers larger and bluer than the type, in clusters three inches thick. Excellent. 64 CAMPANULA ■tpanula, a little bell) Campanulacttz 43. Campanula latifolia, var. macrantha (C macrdntha) English Names: Great bellflower, Coventry bells. CENTRAL EUROPE, PERSIA LATE MAY TO MID-JULY LARGE, erect, purple or dark blue bell-shaped flowers, two inches or J more long, in a loose spike about eight inches long, of six to fifteen flowers, borne on stems three to four feet tall. Leaves large, hairy, and heart-shaped, sometimes six inches long at the bottom, smaller and more pointed higher up. Some- what rank in growth. Excellent for the herba- ceous border and for cut ting. A hardy perennial of easy culture in rich, well- drained loam. Prefers sun. Propagate by seed, cuttings, or by division. 6S CAMPANULA (From the Latin campanula, a little bell) Campanuldcfo' 44. Campanula Medium English Names: Canterbury bells, Marian, Mercury's violet. S. EUROPE EARLY JUNE TO MID-JULY TUBULAR bell-shaped flowers one to two inches long, of blue, purple, pink, or white in a loose-spreading spike, along an erect stem one to four feet high. Leaves rather small and pointed. An old garden plant, and probably the best known of the Campa- nulas. Excellent for the herbaceous border and for cutting. Not a perennial, but a hardy biennal, flowering the second year from seed sown in the open. It may also be treated as a tender annual, the seed being sown indoors in early spring and the young plants set out in the first half of May. These will then flower well the first year, but are always better the second year. Some protection in winter is necessary. The best soil is a rich, well-drained loam,though any garden soil will do. Prefers sun. Var. calycdnthema (cup and saucer, hose-in- hose). A double form, in which the sepals have grown together form- ing a saucer similar in color and texture to the corolla, unusually inter- esting and attractive, and more popular though not so graceful as the type. 66- CAMPANULA (From the Latin campanula, a little bell) Campanulacea 93. Campanula persicifolia English Names: Peach-leaf campanula, Peach bells. CENTRAL AND N. EUROPE EARLY JUNE TO EARLY JULY MANY large purplish-blue cup-shaped flowers, often an inch and a half long and two inches broad, ranging along erect stems two to three feet high, and borne above a tuft of pretty, narrow-toothed leaves resembling those of the peach in form and size. Probably the greatest fovorite among the Cam- panulas, very graceful in groups in the herbaceous border, or against shrub- bery, and good for cut- ting. If cut back it will blossom a second time. A perfectly hardy per- ennial of easiest culture in rich soil in sun. Propagate by seed or by division. There are many horti- cultural varieties of C. persicifolia, a number of which are excellent. Among these are: Var. grandifiora, with larger flowers than the type. Var. fnacrchitha, a large-flowered form with flowers all along the stem. CAMPANULA (From the Latin campanula, a little bell) Campanuldcea 94. Campanula persicifolia, var. alba English Names: White peach-leaf campanula, White peach bells. HORTICULTURAL VARIETY TYPE FROM CENTRAL AND N. EUROPE EARLY JUNE TO EARLY JULY MANY large white cup-shaped flowers, often an inch and a half long and two inches broad, ranging along erect stems two to three feet high, and borne above a tuft of pretty^ narrow-toothed leaves resembling those of the peach in form and size. Probably the greatest favorite among the Campanulas, very graceful in groups in the herbaceous border, or against shrubbery, and good for cutting. If cut back it will blossom a second time. A perfectly hardy per- ennial of easiest culture in rich soil in sun. Propagate by seed or by division. There are many white horticultural varieties of C. persicifolia, a number of which are excellent. Among these are: Var. alba grandiflora. Very large white cup- shaped flowers, one of the finest of the Cam- panulas. Var. Backhousei, double white camellia- Hke flowers all along the stem, flowers much larger than the type. Var. Moerheimi, another fine white double-flowered variety. CAMPANULA (From the Latin campanula, a little bell) 41. Campanulacea Campanula rotundifolia English Names: English Hare bell, Hair bell, Air bell, Blue bells of Scotland, Witch's bell. Lady's or Witch's thimble. EUROPE, SIBERIA, WESTERN N. AMERICA JUNE THROUGH AUGUST SMALL, drooping, purplish-blue bell-shaped flowers, the flower buds being erect, borne on delicate wiry stems six to twelve inches high. The foliage is very small and inconspicuous. Naturalized in the woods, it grows taller and more slender, often reaching a height of two feet. A very lovely little plant, well known in literature, especially suited for the rock garden and for naturalizing. It is also useful for edging the herbaceous border, but is liable to be crowded out by other plants. A hardy perennial of easy culture in rich, well- drained loam. Prefers sun. Propagate by seed, cuttings, or by division. CASSIA (An ancient Greek plant name, derived from the Hebrew) Leguminosa 12. Cassia marylandica English Names: American senna, Wild senna. NEW ENGLAND TO MICHIGAN AND SOUTH JULY AND AUGUST NUMEROUS small bright-yellow flowers, shaped somewhat like a pea blossom, with chocolate-colored anthers, in axillary clusters near the top of a handsome shrublike plant three to five feet high. The foliage is compound and finely cut, like that of the sen- sitive plant, light green in color, and very at- tractive. After blooming the foliage dies and should be cut down or hidden by other plants. Handsome among shrubbery or in the her- baceous border, and very valuable for naturalizing in waste places. A perfectly hardy perennial of easiest cul- ture, thriving even in poor soil. Will grow either in wet or dry places, its only require- ment being plenty of sun. Propagate by seed oi by division. 70 CENTAUREA (From thf Greek kentauros, a centaur, the herb being said to have cured a wounded centaur) Composilir 45. Centaurea macrocephala English Names: Centaury, Hardheads, Great golden knapweed, Star thistle. ARMENIA JULY AND AUGUST V ERY large globular bright-yellow flowers, often three to four inches in diameter, carried on unbranching, erect, leafy stems from two and one half to three feet high, narrow, and smaller at the top than at the bot- tom of the plant. The most showy Centaury and probably the best. Ex- cellent for the herbaceous border or for planting in front of shrubbery, and especially good for cut- ting, the flowers preserv- ing their freshness for a long time. A hardy perennial of easy culture in any good garden soil. Prefers sun. Propagate by seed. Foliage handsome, leaves pointed-oval, rather 71 CENTAUREA (From the Greek kentauros, a centaur, the herb being said to have cured a wounded centaur) Composite 105. Centaurea montana English Names: Perennial cornflower, Mountain bluet, Bluebottle, Bachelor's buttons. Blue bonnets, Mountain knapweed, Com centaury, Break-your- spectacles. EUROPE JUNE THROUGH AUGUST 1ARGE, flat blue flowers which turn purple as they grow old, two or -i more inches in diameter, resembling the cornflower, profusely car- ried on erect unbranching stems one to two feet high. The leaves are pointed-oval and, when young, downy white. Compact dwarf plants, good for the herbaceous border and for cutting. A hardy perennial of easy culture in any good garden soil. Prefers sun. Var. alba. Similar to the type with white flowers. Excellent though sometimes rather grayish in color. Var. rosea. Similar to the type, rose-colored flowers. Var. citrina {sul- -phurea). Flowers yellow with brown centres, not so good as the type. 72 CERASTIUM (From the Greek keras, a horn, referring to the shape of the pod) Caryophyllacfa 162. Cerastium tomentosum English Names: Snow-in-summer, Mouse-eared chickweed. EUROPE MAY TO MID-JUNE SMALL white flowers carried about six inches high on rather weak, creeping stems. Leaves roundish-oblong, downy and silvery, whence the name " mouse-ear." Good for covering dry, sunny places, for the rock garden, or for edging the herbaceous border. The flowers though pretty do not make much of a dis- play; the chief value of the plant lies in its silvery foliage which preserves its freshness and neatness throughout the summer, Its cool appearance bemg especially attractive in August. A perfectly hardy per- ennial in any soil. Prefers a dry situation and full exposure to the sun. Propagate by cuttings or by division. 73 CHELONE (From the Greek chelone, a tortoise, in allusion to the resemblance of the flower to a reptile's head) Scrophulariacece 86. Chelone Lyonii English Names: Balmony, Turtle head, Turtle bloom, Shell flower. Bitter herb. Cod head. Fish mouth. Snake head. MOUNTAINS OF NORTH CAROLINA AND SOUTH AUGUST THROUGH OCTOBER CURIOUSLY shaped, rosy-purple flowers in dense, showy, terminal and axillary spikes, borne over two feet high on thickly growing stalks. Leaves handsome, deep green, glossy, elongated, heart-shaped, largest at base of plant; persistent. A profusely blooming plant which forms thick clumps. Excellent for planting in moist situa- tions and in the herbace- ous border. A hardy perennial of easy culture in good garden soil, preferabl}' rich and moist. Prefers partial shade. In the ordinary border the roots should be covered during the growing season with a heavy mulch, four or five inches thick, of well- rotted manure. This will feed the surface roots and protect the plant from drought. Propagate by seed, cuttings, or by division in the spring. 74 CHRYSANTHEMUM (From the Greek chrysos, golden, and anthemon. Bower) Cbmposita 70. Chrysanthemum indicum and Chrysanthemum morifoUum, Garden varieties English Name: Chrysanthemum. HORTICULTURAL VARIETIES TYPE FROM CHINA AND JAPAN MID-SEPTEMBER THROUGH OCTOBER SINGLE, semi-double, or double flowers varying in size from one half inch to over two inches, and ranging in color from pure white, pale yellow and pink through orange and red to bronze and deep dark crimson, according to variety, pro- fusely borne on upright branching stems from two to three feet high. Leaves deeply cut and lobed, re- sembling the Acanthus of classic ornament, two to five inches long, deep rich green, persistent, and very handsome. One of the finest of the hardy perennials and certainly the most neces- sary for the late fall garden. It is the most resistant to frost of any garden flower, and fre- quently may be seen in bloom after the first falls of snow. The brilliant colors and decorative foli- age make it unexcelled for cutting. The 1 a r g e-flowered varieties seen in the florists' windows are not suflficiently hardy for growing in the herbaceous border without transplanting in the winter 75 WW w ■■ 'Wi. ^^ K.^'V pv^ ^4 70. Chrysanthemum indicum and Chrysanthemum morifoHum, Garden varieties (Continued) and considerable skilled attention during the summer. There are, how- ever, a great number of varieties which are perfectly hardy in any garden soil in sun if given a hght covering of litter or leaves in winter. In grouping Chrysanthemums care should be taken to keep those in shades of pink, crimson, lilac, etc., away from the reds, yellows, and bronzes, as the colors are often so vivid that they form very unpleasant contrasts. The hardiest garden varieties are known as Pompon Chrysanthemums and are crosses and strains of C indicum (C. japonicum) and C. mori- folium {C. sinense). Propagate by seed and by cuttings. The following are some of the most popular varieties: Aster or Large-flowering Pompon Chrysanthemums White Prince of Wales. Pure white, the best of the large white forms. Queen of Whites. Pure white, very late. Soeur Melanie. Pure white, rather ragged petals. Yellow Bohemia. Pure yellow, semi-double, petals rather large. Globe d'Or. Clear lemon-yellow with darker shadings, bushy plant, the best of the large yellow forms. Sir Michael. Lemon-yellow. Sunshine. Bright golden-yellow, petals somewhat ragged. Zenobia. Bright clear yellow, rather large and loose petals; an early bloomer. Orange and Bronze Allentown. Golden-bronze, semi-double, two inches in diameter. Mrs. Porter. Lemon-yellow suffused with terra cotta, effect bronze. Patterson. Old gold with dark shadings. Sir Walter Raleigh. Yellow, merging into terra cotta, almost single. Sunset. Scarlet terra cotta with yellow centre, medium-sized flower. ! The Czar. Golden-bronze, yellow edge. 76 yo. Chrysanthemum indicum and Chrysanthemum morifoHum, Garden varieties (Continued) Red Julia Lagravere. Rich dark crimson, well-formed flowers. Northumberland. Scarlet with yellow centre, single flowtr. Pink Arabella. Crimson-salmon, plant very dwarf. Cerise Queen. Cerise-pink. Daybreak. Soft pink. Gloire de France. Silvery pink, cream centre. Hijos. Primrose-pink shading to cream, the best of the large pink forms. Salem. Silver rose, long quilled petals. Magenta King Philip. Rich crimson-magenta. Mrs. Vincent. Rich magenta-crimson. Button or Small-flowering Pompon Chrysanthemums White James Boon. Pure white, good-sized flowers. Yellow Baby. Clear bright yellow. Savannah. Intense clear yellow, the best of the small yellow forms. Tennyson. Pure yellow. Orange and Bronze Alice Cary. Bright orange. Golden Pheasant. Rich yellow, reddish-brown centres, the best of the small bronze forms. Goldfinch. Golden-yellow, shaded crimson., Henrietta. Bronze, yellow edge. Red Black Douglas. Dark maroon. Erminie. Bright orange-scarlet. Rufus. Bright terra cotta. 77 yo. Chrysanthemum indicum and Chrysanthemum morifolium, Garden varieties {Continued) Pink Dawn. Pale, soft pink shading deeper. Dinazulu. Violet-pink. Rhoda. Apple-blossom pink shaded white, the best of the small pink forms. Rosinante. Blush-pink, sulphur-shading, dwarf plant. Viola. Rich violet-rose, good-sized flowers. Magenta Little Pet. Violet-pink, very small flower. 78 CHRYSANTHEMUM (From the Greek chrysos, golden, and anthemon, flower) Compositir 113. Chrysanthemum maximum English Name: Giant daisy. PYRENEES JUNE AND JULY IARGE white flowers with yellow centres, hke large field daisies, carried -/ from one to two feet high on the ends of upright stems which are simple, or branch at the very base, and are leafless for three to four inches below the flower. Leaves long and narrowed at the base. An excellent and showy plant for the her- baceous border, and very good for cutting. A perfectly hardy per- ennial of easy culture in rich garden soil. It should be mulched and well-watered during the growing season for best results, but will stand con- siderable neglect without serious harm. Prefers sun. Propagate by seeds, cuttings, or by division. C. "Shasta Daisy,'" a new and much-advertised form developed by Bur- bank. Very much like C. maximum in everv re- spect; possibly a little larger in flower and of a longer blossoming season. 79 CLEMATIS (From the Greek kUmatis, the name of some climbing plant) Ranunculdcetz 46. Clematis heracleaefolia, var. Davidiana (C Davididna; C. Tuhulosa, var. Davididna) English Name: Shrubby clematis. CHINA AND JAPAN AUGUST AND SEPTEMBER SMALL, china-blue, hyacinth-shaped flowers, with a fragrance like orange blossoms, borne in clusters of six to fifteen, or singly, at the ends or in the axils of erect, almost vinelike stems three to four feet high. Leaves very large and bright green. An excel- lent plant for the border or rock garden, and good for cutting. A hardy perennial of easy culture. The best soil is a deep, rich light loam which must be well- drained, and is improved by having a very little lime mixed with it. Should be enriched at least once a year with horse or cow manure, and a mulch of this late in the fall improves the plant. It is very susceptible to drought and should be well-sprayed in dry sea- sons. A light support should be given to the rather lax stems. Prefers sun. Propagate by cuttings or by division. 80 CLEMATIS (From the Greek klemalis, the name of some climbing plant) Ranunculiceet 71. Clematis recta (C erecta) English Name: Shrubby clematis. S. EUROPE JUNE TO MID-JULY NUMEROUS fragrant white flowers one inch across, in broad convex terminal clusters, borne two to three feet high on erect leafy stems. Probably the best shrubby Clematis for use in the herbaceous border. A hardy perennial of easy culture. The best soil is a deep, rich, well- drained loam, which is improved by a very slight admixture of lime. Should be enriched at least once a year with horse or cow manure, and a mulch of this late in the fall improves the plant. It is very susceptible to drought and should be well-sprayed in dry sea- sons. Prefers sun. Propagate by seed or by cuttings. Var. plena, fully doubled, buttonlike blos- soms, not so good as the type. , ■ ,■>■ ■ - ^ M PS -•5*f^-:S5v r 4 ._ . — . . — _ 81 CONVALLARIA (From the Latin convallis, an enclosed valley) Liliaceet 156. Convallaria majalis English Names: Lily-of-the-valley, Conval lily, May or Park lily, Wood lily. May blossom. EUROPE, ASIA, S. ALLEGHENIES MAY SMALL, white, globular, bell-like, and very fragrant flowers, hanging daintily from graceful flower stalks six to twelve inches long. The leaves grow from the base of the plant,'are smooth, rather broad and Hlylike, and preserve their clean fresh character through- out the summer. A favorite flower for natural- izing under trees and in shady places, but excellent for ground covering or in the herbaceous border under shrubs, where, if the ground beproperly enrich- ed, it will thrive in full sun. Good for cutting. A perfectly hardy perennial of easiest cul- ture. Old beds are liable to run out and not flower profusely, and so should be replanted every few years, though if the soil is enriched and is given a dressing of manure every fall, the bed will thrivt for four or five years. Succeeds best in partial shade. Propagate by division in fall or early spring. 82 COREOPSIS (From the Greek koris, a bedbug, and opsis, resemblance; alluding to the fruit) Composite 95. Coreopsis lanceolata, var. grandiflora English Name: Tickseed. SOUTHERN U. S. A. JUNE THROUGH AUGUST LARGE, bright-yellow, daisylike flowers, one and one half to two and J one half inches across, borne on sparingly branched stems one to two feet high. Foliage small and rather sparse. Excellent in masses in the herbaceous border, where if the blossoms are kept well picked it will give a brilliant note of yellow through the greater part of the sum- mer. It should always be planted with a setting of good foliage plants about it, as its long, almost leafless stems are apt to present an unkempt ap- pearance if it standsalone. Especially good for natu- ralizing in barren places on account of its brilliant color and long season of bloom. Excellent also for cutting. A perfectly hardy per- ennial of easiest culture in any soil. Prefers sun. Propagate by seed or bv division. 83 DAPHNE (From the Greek daphne, the laurel or bay tree, named for a nymph beloved of Apollo) Thymeloedcett 157. Daphne Cneorum English Name: Garland flower. EUROPE MID-APRIL THROUGH MAY SMALL, pink, fragrant flowers with crimson buds, in many-flowered heads on long trailing branches rising six to twelve inches from the ground. Strictly speaking, not a perennial: being a dwarf shrub, with woody stems and dense shiny dark evergreen leaves one half inch to one inch long. A most charm- ing plant for the edge of the herbaceous border, for planting in front of shrubs, or in the rock gar- den. It often blooms a second time in summer. Perfectly hardy and of easiest culture. Thrives best in light, well- drained soil, enriched with w^ll-rotted manure; an annual top dressing of manure is of great benefit. Succeeds in half-shade or sun, or even in dry spots if once well-established. Is best propagated by removing the earth from around the plant in spring, pegging down the branches, and filling in with fine compost almost to the tops of the branches. On carefully removing the compost the next spring, a large number of little buds suppHed with roots may be found among the branches. These may be easily detached and planted in pans or boxes. 84 DELPHINIUM (From the Greek name for the plant, delphinion derived from delpkin, a dolphin, from a supposed resemblance in the flower) Ranunculacea 47. Delphinium "Belladonna" English Names: Hybrid larkspur, Belladonna larkspur. HORTICULTURAL HYBRIDS TYPE FROM EUROPE MID-JUNE TO MID-JULY EARLY SEPTEMBER, MID-OCTOBER CURIOUSLY shaped, vivid sky-blue flowers, an inch and a half wide, with pure white centres, borne in graceful stalky spikes about twelve inches long on leafy stems from two to four feet high. Foliage finely cut and decorative. One of the best of the hybrid Delphiniums (though rather low-grow- ing), on account of the sturdiness of the plant, its early and long blos- soming season, and the very beautiful color of the flower. Invaluable for the herbaceous border or for massing against shrubbery. Excellent for cutting. A perfectly hardy perennial of easy culture, will thrive in any good garden soil in sun or partial shade, but does best in a deep, rich, sandy loam, exposed to the sun. The cultivation is the same as for Delphinium English Hybrids (see page 153)- Propagate by seed, cuttings, or by division; will lloom the first year from seed sown indoors in February or March, or tljc following year from seed sown outdoors in August. 85 DELPHINIUM (From the Greek name for the plant, delphinion derived from delphin, a dolphin, from a supposed resemblance in the flower) Ranunculdceee lo. Delphinium English Hybrids {D. eldtum, hybrid vars.; D. exaltdtum, hybrid vars.; D. hybridum, vars.) English Name: Hybrid larkspurs. HORTICULTURAL HYBRIDS TYPE FROM EUROPE MID-JUNE TO MID-JULY EARLY SEPTEMBER, MID-OCTOBER CURIOUSLY shaped, single, semi-double, or double flowers from one to two inches across, varying through all shades from lightest blue to dark purple, with blue, black, white, or gray cen- tres, borne on stately and graceful spikes from one to two feet long on erect branching stems from four to eight feet high. Foliage abundant, finely cut, and decorative. The hybrid Delph- iniums are indispensable in the herbaceous border on account of their mag- nificent habit, the beauti- ful color of their flowers, and their generous bloom. They are also extremely eff"ective in masses against shrubbery. They should always be planted against a background as the flowers show rather poorly against a blue sky; un- hke most flowers, the different shades of the different varieties are never discordant, and a group of changing blue tints is more iridescent and effective than one composed of a single variety. They are also excellent for cutting. 86 lo. Delphinium English Hybrids (Continued) A perfectly hardy perennial of easy culture; will thrive in any good gar- den soil, but does best in deep, rich, sandy loam, with full exposure to the sun or in partial shade. The ground should be deeply dug and well mixed with rotted manure, the plants set about three feet apart and mulched to protect the roots from hot sun. They should be freely watered in hot weather. Every three or four years they should be taken up, divided, and reset in freshly enriched soil. Most of the varieties require staking. After blooming the plant should be cut to the ground, given a dressing of bone meal, and well-watered. It will bloom again in early September, and if the same treatment be repeated, will often bloom a third time in mid-October. Delphiniums are liable to a blight of unknown cause. The best treat- ment is to spray weekly, beginning in early spring, with Bordeaux mixture or ammoniacal carbonate of copper. Also, dry Bordeaux mixture should be dug in around the crowns. Besides the blight. Delphiniums are liable to serious injury from cut- worms in the spring. These must be dugout as soon as their presence is noted, and often the plants had better be removed to new locations. Ashes scat- tered over the crowns in late fall will protect them from the attacks of slugs. Propagate by seed, cuttings, or by division. Delphiniums grow with the greatest readiness from seed sown in the garden in August or indoors in February or March. In the latter case they will bloom the same year. There are quantities of named varieties, most of which are excellent. Among the best are: Beatrice Kelzvay. Cornflower blue, flushed with rose, white eye, massive spikes. Geneva. Large flowers, pale porcelain blue, pure white eye. Julia. Large flowers, cornflower blue veined with rose, white eye. King oj Delphiniums. Large semi-double, gentian-blue flowers with large white eye, in massive spikes; plant of strong growth and fine habit. Lizzie. Large azure-blue flowers with yellowish eye; plant very tall and strong growing. Mme. Violet Geslin. Round, semi-double flowers, outer petals clear blue, inner ones lavender, white eye. Perfection. Very large sky-blue flowers flushed with rose, dark eye. Queen JVilhehnina. Large flowers, soft lavender-blue flushed with rose, conspicuous white eye. Rembrandt. Semi-double, sky-blue, inner petals rosy-lavender, silvery sheen. Rev. E. Lascelles. Very large double flowers, deep purple-blue with white centre edged with blue, one of the largest varieties both in height of plant and size of flowers. 87 DELPHINIUM (From the Greek name for the plant, delphinion derived from delphin, a dolphin, from a supposed resemblance in the flower) 48. Delphinium formosum {D, cheildnthum, var. formosum) English Name: Oriental larkspur. POSSIBLY ASIA MINOR MID-JUNE TO MID-JULY EARLY SEPTEMBER, MID-OCTOBER CURIOUSLY shaped flowers of brilliant deep blue with white centres and long violet spurs, in loose spikes about a foot long on a rather tangled branching plant from two to four feet high. Fohage rich dark green, finely divided, and handsome. In flower one of the finest of the Delph- iniums,but in habit rather poor, having neither the height nor the sturdiness of the hybrid varieties. Excellent for the herba- ceous border, and the most permanent variety for naturalizing. Ex- tremely fine also for cut- ting. A perfectly hardy perennial of easy culture, will thrive in any good garden soil, but does best in a deep, rich, sandy loam, in sun or partial shade. The cultivation is the same as for Delphinium English Hybrids (see page 153)- Propagate by seed, cuttings, or by division; will bloom the first year from seed sown indoors in February or March, or the year following from seed sown outdoors in August. ^^^^^^^1 ^^^^^^^^^^'~ '^nP^ ^' ^^^^KT^r^ ^^^^^^V^^^ ^^v^ ^l^^^l ^^^^^^K<«' ' '^K % ^K'rll J m^^^^^^H r f^^^^H ^^^^^■F^'^H Bk^^^^^^^H DELPHINIUM (From the Greek name for the plant, delphinion derived from delphin, a dolphin, from a supposed resemblance in the flower) Ranunculacea 96. Delphinium sinense (Z). chinense; D. gra?id{fldrum, var. chin his e) English Name: Chinese larkspur. SIBERIA MID-JUNE TO MID-JULY EARLY SEPTEMBER, MID-OCTOBER CURIOUSLY shaped, clear gentian-blue flowers, often tinged with violet, with long pointed spurs; in long, rather loose spikes on slender, slightly branching stems one to two feet high. Leaves rather small, very finely divided. An excellent plant for the herbaceous border and for cut flowers, the flow- ers being very freely pro- duced. A perfectly hardy perennial of easy cul- ture, will thrive in any good soil, but does best in a deep, rich, sandy loam, in sun or partial shade. Thecultivationis the same as for Delphinium English Hybrids (see page 153). Propagate by seed, cuttings, or by division; will bloom the first year from seed sown indoors in February or March, or the year following from seed sown outdoors in August. 89 DELPHINIUM (From the Greet name for the plant, delpkinion derived from delphin, a dolphin, from a supposed reielytra) Fumaria