A SEAFOOD HERITAGE If you have never been to the South, mention of Southern heritage or "the Southern tradition" probably conjures up visions in your mind of Rhett Butler and Scarlet O'Hara, of Jefferson Davis or Robert E. Lee. One of the richest traditions of the South, however, is the great variety and imagination evident in the preparation of its foods. And one of the most prized items on Southern menus of yesterday or today, is seafood. From the Rappahannock River in Virginia, you could follow the coastline south to the Florida keys, back up into the Gulf of Mexico, past the mouth of the Mississippi, to the very tip of the Texas coast at the Rio Grande, sampling, along the way, delectable fish and shellfish recipes developed by the wealthy plantation owners, Cajun, French, Black, American Indian, and Mexican cooks. This potpourri of resourceful gourmets combined newly-imported foods such as condiments from Africa and the Caribbean, with native foods, spices, and preparation ideas, to create a culinary tradition that is truly American. The diners of yesteryear chose seafood because it was an available, versatile, delicious treat. Today we know that fish and shellfish are nutritious, too. Low in saturated fats and high in protein, fish and shellfish provide a delightful alternative to the health-conscious dieter. If you haven't the means to take that coastline trip we mentioned above, you can get some idea of the Southern heritage of fine seafood by sampling the recipes in this booklet. From the down-home simplicity of Fried Catfish, Arkansas Style to the easy elegance of Plantation Fish in Aspic, from the robust Crab, Shrimp, and Okra Gumbo to the delicate Pompano en Papillote, you will find herein a wealth of ideas, something for every taste, any occasion, the charming seafood side of . . . the Southern tradition. INDEX TEXAS GRILLED SPANISH MACKEREL CAROLINA SHRIMP PILAU 18 SCALLOP REMOULADE APPETIZER REMOULADE SAUCE MARINATED KING MACKEREL 20 CREOLE JAMBALAYA OYSTER LOAF 4 FLORIDA RED SNAPPER CRAB, SHRIMP, AND OKRA GUMBO 6 OYSTERS ROCKEFELLER PICKLED ROCK SHRIMP 8 CRAWFISH BISQUE BISQUE 9 STUFFED HEADS KING MACKEREL STEAKS WITH SAUCE PROVENCALE SAUCE PROVENCALE 10 PLANTATION FISH IN ASPIC BROILED SESAME MULLET 22 CREOLE BOUILLABAISSE 24 CRAB CHOPS SEA TROUT MEUNIERE 25 MEUNIERE SAUCE AMANDINE SAUCE SAVANNAH STUFFED SHRIMP 26 GULF COURTBOUILLON LOBSTER SALAD 27 FLORIDA STONE CRAB CLAWS a la KENNEDY SAUCE a la KENNEDY MISSISSIPPI CATFISH STEW 12 FRIED CATFISH, ARKANSAS STYLE HUSH PUPPIES BLACK DRUM WITH ZESTY SAUCE 14 POMPANO EN PAPILLOTE 16 MULLET MOBILE BLENDER HOLLANDAISE SAUCE BLENDER BEARNAISE SAUCE 17 RED SNAPPER WITH VEGETABLE SAUCE OUTER BANKS STUFFED SPANISH MACKEREL VEGETABLE STUFFING 28 OYSTER PIE RAPPAHANNOCK BISCUIT TOPPING LEMON GARLIC CROAKER 29 SHRIMP PASTE CHARLESTON SHRIMP ETOUFFEE American Indians used horse chestnuts or some similar natural drug to stupefy fish in a trapped pool; then they could be picked out by hand. Our modern taste for outdoor cooking over live fires seems symbolic of the help that friendly Indians gave early settlers who had little or no knowledge of hunting, fishing, cultivating, or preparing foods of the new land. TEXAS GRILLED SPANISH MACKEREL (opposite page ) 3 pounds dressed Spanish 1 teaspoon dried oregano leaves, mackerel or other dressed fish, crushed fresh or frozen % teaspoon garlic salt V2 cup lemon juice V2 teaspoon pepper 34 cup olive oil V2 teaspoon monosodium 1 teaspoon salt glutamate Thaw fish if frozen. Combine lemon juice, olive oil, salt, oregano, garlic salt, pepper, and monosodium glutamate. Make 4 to 5 shallow slits on each side of each fish. Brush fish inside and outside with sauce. Place fish in well-greased, hinged, wire grills. Cook about 4 inches from moderately hot coals for 5 to 8 minutes. Baste with sauce. Turn. Cook for 5 to 8 minutes longer or until fish flakes easily when tested with a fork. Makes 6 servings. In 1680 Captain John Thurber sailed into Charleston, South Carolina harbor, bringing with him a bag of smuggled Madagascar rice. The rice was given to Dr. Henry Woodward who planted it and found that it flourished in the Carolina climate. Soon afterward, slaves were introduced into the colony and cleared the swampy river banks for rice plantations. By the 18th century, rice was important enough to the South Carolinians that they used it for currency and called it "Carolina gold." • CAROLINA SHRIMP PILAU 2 pounds raw, peeled, and 1 can (28 ounces) tomatoes, deveined shrimp, fresh or undrained, cut up frozen 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce 8 slices bacon 1 teaspoon salt 2 cups chopped onion 1 teaspoon ground mace 1 V2 cups uncooked long grain rice Va teaspoon cayenne pepper 3 cups chicken broth or bouillon 2 tablespoons chopped parsley Thaw shrimp if frozen. In a heavy 3 to 4 quart Dutch oven cook bacon until crisp. Remove bacon. Drain on absorbent paper. Crumble and set aside. Reserve 3 tablespoons bacon fat. Add onion to reserved bacon fat. Cover and cook until tender. Stir in rice. Add chicken broth, tomatoes, Worcestershire sauce, salt, mace, and pepper. Bring to a boil. Cover and bake in a moderate oven 350° F., for 15 minutes. Stir in shrimp and bacon. Cover and return to oven for 10 minutes or until shrimp are done. Remove from oven, fluff with a fork, and sprinkle with parsley. Makes 6 servings. A • *r s? ■$K%\ *&m. Red snapper is one of the most delicious deep sea delicacies. It is brilliant red in color, and very attractive resting on a bed of ice in a market showcase. Most are caught in the Gulf of Mexico and landed in Florida, where the red snapper industry is centered. FLORIDA RED SNAPPER (opposite page) 2 pounds red snapper fillets or 2 teaspoons grated orange rind other fish fillets, fresh or frozen V2 teaspoon salt % cup grated onion Vs teaspoon nutmeg 2 tablespoons orange juice Vs teaspoon pepper 2 tablespoons lemon juice Thaw fillets if frozen. Cut fish into 6 portions. Place in a single layer, skin side down, in a well-greased baking dish, 12x8x2 inches. Combine onion, orange and lemon juice, orange rind, and salt. Pour over fish; cover and place in refrigerator to marinate 30 minutes. Sprinkle fish with nutmeg and pepper. Bake in a moderate oven, 350° F., for 25 to 30 minutes or until fish flakes easily when tested with a fork. Makes 6 servings. Creole cooking is a blend of Indian, Spanish, French, English, African, and American cooking. The best known Creole dish, gumbo, a cross between a thick soup and a thin stew, is characteristic. The origin of the name is not clear. Some believe it is from the African word for okra— "gnombo; " however, the Choctaw Indian name for sassafras, from which file powder is made, is "kombo. " CRAB, SHRIMP, AND OKRA GUMBO 1 pound blue crabmeat, fresh, 1 can (15 ounces) tomato sauce frozen, or pasteurized with tomato bits 1 pound raw, peeled, and 1 tablespoon chopped parsley deveined shrimp, fresh or V2 teaspoon salt frozen Y2 teaspoon dried thyme leaves, 6 tablespoons margarine or butter crushed 6 tablespoons all-purpose flour % teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 cup chopped onion 1 bay leaf V2 cup chopped green pepper Liquid hot pepper sauce 2 tablespoons chopped green (optional) onion 1 can (1 pound) cut okra, drained 1 clove garlic, minced 1 lemon, sliced 1 quart chicken broth or bouillon 3 cups cooked rice Thaw crabmeat and shrimp if frozen. Remove any remaining shell or cartilage from crabmeat. Cut large shrimp in half. In a heavy 4 to 5 quart Dutch oven melt margarine; blend in flour. Cook, stirring constantly, over medium heat until medium brown in color, approximately 10 to 15 minutes. Add onion, green pepper, green onion, and garlic. Cook, stirring constantly, until lightly browned. Gradually stir in chicken broth. Add tomato sauce, parsley, salt, thyme, cayenne, bay leaf, and liquid hot pepper sauce. Bring to a boil; simmer 30 minutes. Add okra, lemon slices, shrimp, and crabmeat. Cover and simmer 5 minutes or until shrimp are pink and tender. Remove slices of lemon from gumbo. Serve by ladling gumbo over mounds of cooked rice in deep soup bowls. Makes 6 servings. Oysters Rockefeller originated in 1899 at Antoine's, the celebrated New Orleans restaurant. The richness of the recipe prompted its inventor to name it after the richest man he could think of —John D. Rockefeller. OYSTERS ROCKEFELLER (opposite page ) 1 pint oysters, selects or counts, 1 tablespoon anisette fresh or frozen X A teaspoon salt l A cup margarine or butter Rock salt % cup chopped celery 1 8 baking shells M cup chopped green onion l A cup dry bread crumbs 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 1 tablespoon melted margarine or 1 package (10 ounces) frozen butter chopped spinach Thaw oysters if frozen. In small saucepan melt X A cup margarine. Add celery, green onion, and parsley. Cover and cook 5 minutes or until tender. Combine cooked vegetables with spinach in blender container. Add anisette and salt. Chop vegetables in blender until almost pureed, stopping once or twice to push vegetables into knife blades. (Vegetables may be run through a food mill.) Make a layer of rock salt in pie tins. Place small baking shells or ramekins on top. (The rock salt is used mainly to hold shells upright; however, it also helps to keep oysters hot to serve.) Place the oysters in the shells or ramekins. Top each oyster with spinach mixture. Combine bread crumbs and 1 tablespoon melted margarine; sprinkle over oysters. Bake in a very hot oven, 450° F., for 10 minutes. Serve immediately in pie tins. Makes 6 appetizer servings of 3 oysters each. While the early colonists were still following Anglo-Saxon ways, the African influence of the Black family cook was making its mark on Southern cooking. Accustomed to seasonings and spices of a hotter climate, they gave the old recipes lively new twists and flavors. PICKLED ROCK SHRIMP 2 pounds cooked, peeled, and 1 tablespoon capers with liquid deveined rock shrimp or other 1 tablespoon chopped parsley shrimp, fresh or frozen V2 teaspoon salt V2 cup salad oil V2 teaspoon dried dillweed V2 cup lime juice x /s teaspoon liquid hot pepper V2 cup sliced onion sauce 6 lemon slices Thaw shrimp if frozen. Combine remaining ingredients. Pour marinade over shrimp; toss lightly. Cover and chill several hours, stirring occasionally. Drain. Makes approximately 60 to 70 hors d'oeuvres. Note: This may be served on salad greens as an appetizer. Makes 12 to 15 appetizer servings. -* Crawfish bisque is a thick soup containing cooked ground crawfish meat, shells stuffed with spiced crawfish meat, chopped vegetables, and plenty of cayenne pepper. For Louisianians it offers the same sense of satisfaction and involves the same kind of ritual preparation as Thanksgiving turkey with all the fixings. Louisiana harvests more crawfish than any other area its size in the world — an estimated 20 million pounds a year — and consumes 80% locally in bisque, etouffee, patties, jambalaya, salad, stuffed, fried, or boiled. CRAWFISH BISQUE 8 pounds live crawfish 1 Vz cups salt Wash live crawfish in cold water. In large container dissolve salt in about 3 gallons water and soak crawfish for 15 minutes to purge. In 10-quart pot bring to a boil 6 quarts water. With tongs drop in crawfish and boil 5 minutes. Remove crawfish; cool. Shell crawfish as follows: Break off tail, snap it in half lengthwise, lift out meat in one piece, discard tail shell. Snap off large claws (if desired, break claws with nutcracker and remove bits of meat) and smaller legs; discard. Cut off top of head just behind eyes; discard. Scoop body shell clean, carefully remove and reserve yellow fat or "butter;" discard intestinal matter. Clean and wash thoroughly 48 body shells which in Louisiana are referred to as crawfish "heads." Finely chop all the tail meat or put it through finest blade of food grinder. There should be about 3 cups ground crawfish tail meat, 48 "heads" for stuffing, and the reserved crawfish fat. BISQUE 1 cup ground crawfish tail meat % cup chopped parsley Reserved crawfish fat 2 tablespoons lemon juice l A cup bacon fat 2 bay leaves l A cup margarine or butter 1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves, Vz cup all-purpose flour crushed 2 cups finely chopped onion 1 teaspoon salt 1 cup finely chopped celery 3 A teaspoon cayenne pepper V2 cup finely chopped green 8 whole allspice pepper 48 stuffed "heads" 1 clove garlic, minced 3 cups cooked rice 4 cups hot water 2 cans (15 ounces each) tomato sauce with tomato bits In a 4 to 5 quart Dutch oven, melt bacon fat and margarine. Blend in flour. Cook, stirring constantly, over medium low heat until brown in color, about 15 to 20 minutes. Add onion, celery, green pepper, and garlic. Cover and cook 5 minutes or until tender. Gradually stir in water. Add tomato sauce, parsley, lemon juice, bay leaves, thyme, salt, cayenne, and allspice. Stir in crawfish meat and fat. Cover, bring to a boil and simmer for 1 hour. To serve, ladle into individual soup plates over boiled rice and drop in 5 or 6 stuffed "heads." Makes 6 to 8 entree servings. STUFFED HEADS V2 cup margarine or butter 2 cups ground crawfish tail meat 1 cup finely chopped onion 2 cups soft bread crumbs V2 cup finely chopped celery 48 empty shells of crawfish 1 clove garlic, minced "heads" % cup chopped parsley V2 cup all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon salt Fat for deep frying % teaspoon cayenne pepper In 10-inch fry pan, melt margarine. Add onion, celery, and garlic. Cover and cook 5 minutes or until tender. Stir in parsley, salt, cayenne, and crawfish meat. Combine with bread crumbs. Stuff mixture into empty shells of crawfish heads. Roll in flour. Place in single layer in fry basket. Fry in deep fat, 350° F., for 3 minutes or until lightly brown. Drain on absorbent paper. Keep warm until ready to serve. People of southern Louisiana, city Creole and country Cajun, are food-minded. They enjoy talking about food as much as eating it. They also enjoy the romance of ghosts and haunted houses — the French Quarter has boasted of several. Put these two facts together and one has a house haunted by food. It is said that the present- day tenants of the House of Madame Lalaurie, who was once a grand hostess and famous for her superb dinners, sometimes complain about mysterious and delicious food aromas that come wafting through the night. KING MACKEREL STEAKS WITH SAUCE PROVENCALE 2 pounds king mackerel steaks or 1 teaspoon salt other fish steaks, fresh or frozen % teaspoon pepper 2 tablespoons melted margarine Paprika or butter Sauce Provencale Thaw fish if frozen. Place fish in a single layer on a well-greased baking pan, 15 x 10x1 inches. Brush with margarine and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and paprika. Broil about 4 inches from source of heat for 10 to 15 minutes or until fish flakes easily when tested with a fork. Fish need not be turned during broiling. Serve with Sauce Provencale. Makes 6 servings. SAUCE PROVENCALE 4 medium tomatoes, peeled, cut V2 cup dry white wine into wedges, and seeded Y2 cup margarine or butter V2 teaspoon sugar 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 tablespoons margarine or butter % teaspoon salt V4 cup chopped green onion Vateaspoon pepper 1 clove garlic, minced Sprinkle tomatoes with sugar; set aside. In small saucepan melt 2 tablespoons margarine. Add green onion and garlic; cover and cook 2 to 3 minutes. Add wine. Cook, stirring constantly, until liquid is slightly reduced. Add tomatoes and remaining ingredients. Heat, stirring gently, just until margarine melts. Makes 2 cups sauce. The story goes that in the 1700's one young John Rutledge decided to run for office in Christ Church Parish near Charleston. His style of campaigning included a grand feast on the lawn of the Rutledge Plantation for over 100 families. The menu featured such items as roast oysters, fish in aspic, red snapper in wine sauce, shrimp and watercress salad, venison, biscuits, wine, etc. The following may not be a Rutledge recipe, but it is well worth trying. PLANTATION FISH IN ASPIC (opposite page) 2 pounds grouper or other fish 2 envelopes (2 tablespoons) fillets, fresh or frozen unfavored gelatin 2 cups boiling water l A cup tarragon vinegar 1 cup sauterne wine 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1 medium onion, quartered 1 teaspoon dry mustard 1 stick celery, quartered H cup chopped celery 2 bay leaves 34 cup chopped green onion 1 Vz teaspoons salt % cup chopped green pepper Vi teaspoon dried thyme leaves, 2 tablespoons chopped pimiento crushed 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 1 lemon Salad greens V2 cup cold water Mayonnaise Thaw fish if frozen. Place in a well-greased 10-inch fry pan. Add 2 cups boiling water, wine, onion, celery, bay leaves, salt, and thyme. Cut lemon in half, squeeze in juice and drop in halves. Cover and simmer for 5 to 10 minutes or until fish flakes easily when tested with a fork. Remove fish; set aside to cool. Strain poaching liquid. In a 4 cup measure, place Vz cup cold water. Stir in gelatin to soften. Add hot poaching liquid; stir to dissolve gelatin. Add vinegar, lemon juice, and enough water to make 4 cups liquid. Make a paste of dry mustard with small amount of the liquid; stir into remaining liquid. Chill to unbeaten egg white consistency. Remove skin and bones from fish. Flake fish into small pieces. Mix together fish, celery, green onion, green pepper, pimiento, and parsley. Fold together fish mixture and gelatin. Turn into a lightly oiled loaf pan, 9x5x3 inches, or a 7 cup mold. Chill until firm. Unmold on a serving dish lined with salad greens. Serve with mayonnaise. Makes 6 servings. The African influence on the food of the South is much in evidence. The slaves who arrived in the Carolinas and Georgia in the late 1600's brought benne (sesame) seeds with them. Today these little seeds are used in many of the recipes of the area. BROILED SESAME MULLET 2 pounds mullet fillets or other M cup margarine or butter fish fillets, fresh or frozen 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons toasted sesame Vs teaspoon pepper seeds Thaw fish if frozen. Cut into 6 portions. Place fish in a single layer, skin side down, on a well-greased baking pan, 15x10x1 inches. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Heat margarine and lemon juice together. Baste fish with sauce. Sprinkle with sesame seeds. Broil about 4 inches from source of heat for 10 to 15 minutes or until fish flakes easily when tested with a fork. Baste with any remaining sauce during cooking time. Fish need not be turned during broiling. Makes 6 servings. 10 One of the first conservation laws, passed in 1726, prohibited the poisoning of fish in streams. A guilty white person was fined 10 pounds current money and a guilty slave whipped publicly 39 lashes. Monies collected went half to the informer and half to the parish poor. FRIED CATFISH, ARKANSAS STYLE (opposite page) 6 skinned, pan-dressed catfish or 2 eggs, beaten other pan-dressed fish, fresh or 2 tablespoons milk frozen (Vz to % pound each) 2 cups cornmeal 2 teaspoons salt Fat for frying Vk teaspoon pepper Thaw fish if frozen. Sprinkle both sides with salt and pepper. Combine eggs and milk. Dip fish in egg mixture and roll in cornmeal. Place fish in a heavy fry pan which contains about Vs inch melted fat, hot but not smoking. Fry at a moderate heat. When fish is brown on one side, turn carefully and brown the other side. Cooking time is about 10 minutes, depending on thickness of the fish. Drain on absorbent paper. Serve immediately on a hot platter, plain or with a sauce. Makes 6 servings. Note: Traditionally, Fried Catfish is served with coleslaw and hush puppies. Catfish steaks may also be used in this recipe. HUSH PUPPIES 1 V2 cups cornmeal V4 cup finely chopped onion V2 cup sifted all-purpose flour 1 egg, beaten 2V2 teaspoons baking powder V2 cup milk V2 teaspoon salt Fat for deep frying Sift dry ingredients together. Add remaining ingredients and stir only until blended. Drop by tablespoons into deep fat, 350° F., for 3 to 4 minutes or until brown. Drain on absorbent paper. Makes 18 hush puppies. The black drum makes a humming sound by rapid and repeated contraction of a specialized muscle. It is said that when a whole shoal of fish began "drumming" together underwater the Indians believed it was the ghosts of persons drowned. BLACK DRUM WITH ZESTY SAUCE 2 pounds black drum or other fish 1 tablespoon grated onion fillets, fresh or frozen 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce V2 cup catsup 1 teaspoon prepared mustard l A cup salad oil V2 teaspoon garlic salt Vi cup lemon juice % teaspoon salt Thaw fish if frozen. Combine remaining ingredients in shallow bowl. Add fillets, turning to moisten both sides with sauce. Cover and place in refrigerator to marinate 1 hour. Remove fish from marinade and reserve sauce for basting. Place fish in a single layer on a foil-lined baking pan, 15x10x1 inches. Broil about 4 inches from source of heat for 10 to 15 minutes or until fish flakes easily when tested with a fork. Baste once during broiling with remaining sauce. Fish need not be turned during broiling. Makes 6 servings. 12 When the Brazilian balloonist Alberto Santos-Dumont visited New Orleans in 1901, Antoine's honored him with a dish made to look like a turn-of-the-century flying balloon— a dish that became one of Antoine's most famous creations. The fish is baked in a rich wine-flavored shrimp sauce inside a closed envelope made of baking parchment. A marvelous aroma fills the room when the papillote (paper bag) is cut open at the table. POMPANO EN PAPILLOTE (opposite page) 2 pounds pompano fillets or other fish fillets, fresh or frozen 1 can (6V2 or 7 ounces) crabmeat, drained, flaked, and cartilage removed % pound cooked, peeled, and deveined shrimp, fresh or frozen 3 cups water 1 teaspoon salt 2 lemon slices 1 hay leaf Vs teaspoon dried thyme leaves, crushed Parchment or brown paper 2 tablespoons cooking oil V2 cup chopped green onion 1 clove garlic, minced 2 tablespoons margarine or butter 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour U teaspoon salt 2 slightly beaten egg yolks 3 tablespoons dry white wine Thaw fish if frozen. Chop shrimp. In 10-inch fry pan bring water, 1 teaspoon salt, lemon, bay leaf, and thyme to a boil. Add fish, cover, and simmer for about 10 minutes or until fish flakes easily when tested with a fork. Carefully remove fish. Reserve stock. Strain stock, reserving P/2 cups. Remove skin and bones from fish. Cut 6 pieces parchment or brown paper into heart shapes about 10x12 inches each. Brush paper with oil. Place one fillet on half of each paper heart. In saucepan melt margarine. Add onion and garlic and cook until tender. Blend in flour and % teaspoon salt. Add reserved stock. Cook, stirring constantly, until thickened. Gradually stir small amount of hot mixture into egg yolks; add to remaining sauce, stirring constantly. Heat just until mixture thickens. Stir in wine, crabmeat, and shrimp. Heat. Spoon about V2 cup sauce over each fillet. Fold other half of each paper heart over fillet to form individual cases. Seal, starting at top of heart, by turning edges up and folding, twisting tip of heart to hold case closed. Place cases in shallow baking pan. Bake in a hot oven, 400°F., for 10 to 15 minutes. To serve, cut cases open with large X design on top; fold back each segment. Makes 6 servings. 14 Southerners have a flair for using sauces. They consider the ability to make a perfect sauce indispensable, for a good sauce can make an ordinary dish elegant. The two classic French sauces, hollandaise and bearnaise, are used in many of their fancy dishes. MULLET MOBILE 2 pounds mullet fillets or other V% teaspoon pepper fish fillets, fresh or frozen Paprika 2 tablespoons melted margarine Hollandaise Sauce or Bearnaise or butter Sauce 1 teaspoon salt Thaw fish if frozen. Cut fish into 6 portions. Place fish in a single layer, skin side down, on a well-greased baking pan, 15x10x1 inches. Brush with margarine and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and paprika. Broil about 4 inches from source of heat for 10 to 15 minutes or until fish flakes easily when tested with a fork. Fish need not be turned during broiling. Serve with Hollandaise or Bearnaise Sauce. Makes 6 servings. BLENDER HOLLANDAISE SAUCE 3 egg yolks Dash cayenne pepper 2 tablespoons lemon juice V2 cup margarine or butter Place egg yolks, lemon juice, and cayenne pepper in blender container. Cover; quickly turn blender on and off. Heat margarine until melted and almost boiling. Turn blender on high speed; slowly pour in margarine, blending until thick and fluffy, about 30 seconds. Heat over warm, not hot, water until ready to serve. Makes 1 cup sauce. BLENDER BEARNAISE SAUCE 1 tablespoon chopped green onion Vt teaspoon dried chervil leaves 2 teaspoons lemon juice 3 egg yolks V4 cup dry white wine Vs teaspoon cayenne pepper V2 teaspoon dried tarragon leaves V2 cup margarine or butter In small saucepan combine green onion, lemon juice, white wine, tarragon, and chervil. Simmer until mixture is reduced to about 2 tablespoons. Cool. Place egg yolks, cayenne, and herb mixture in blender container. Cover; quickly turn blender on and off. Heat margarine until melted and almost boiling. Turn blender on high speed; slowly pour in margarine, blending until thick and fluffy, about 30 seconds. Heat over warm, not hot, water until ready to serve. Makes 1 cup sauce. 16 Tarpon Springs, Florida was founded in 1882. The first Greeks to settle there arrived in 1905, and with them they brought their special ability to dive for sponges. Today Tarpon Springs is the sponge-fishing center of the United States. They also brought close ties with the old country and its food styles. One of the favorite Greek ways of preparing fish is to bake it in a vegetable and tomato sauce. RED SNAPPER WITH VEGETABLE SAUCE 2 pounds red snapper fillets or 1 clove garlic, minced other fish fillets, fresh or frozen 1 can (15 ounces) tomato sauce 2 tablespoons olive oil with tomato bits V2 cup chopped onion V2 cup pale dry sherry Va cup chopped celery 1 teaspoon dried dillweed Va cup chopped green pepper Vz teaspoon salt Va cup sliced carrots Vs teaspoon pepper 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 tablespoon lemon juice Thaw fish if frozen. Cut fish into 6 portions. In saucepan combine olive oil, onion, celery, green pepper, carrots, parsley, and garlic; cover and cook until tender. Stir in tomato sauce, sherry, and dillweed. Bring to a boil and simmer for 10 minutes. Ladle about Vz cup tomato-vegetable sauce into a 12 x 8 x 2-inch baking dish. Place fish portions on sauce in baking dish. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Pour remaining sauce over fish. Bake in a hot oven, 400° F., for 20-25 minutes or until fish flakes easily when tested with a fork. Makes 6 servings. The ichthyologist Mitchell, writing in 1815 in his Fishes of New York , gave the Spanish mackerel this brief but favorable biography: "A fine and beautiful fish; comes in July." This last remark referred to the mackerel's summer migration into northern waters. It heads south again before cold weather sets in. OUTER BANKS STUFFED SPANISH MACKEREL 3 to 4 pounds dressed Spanish Va teaspoon pepper mackerel or other dressed fish, Vegetable stuffing fresh or frozen 2 tablespoons melted margarine 1 Vz teaspoons salt or butter Thaw fish if frozen. Clean, wash, and dry fish. Sprinkle inside and outside with salt and pepper. Place fish on a well-greased bake-and-serve platter, 18x13 inches. Stuff fish; brush with margarine. Bake in a moderate oven, 350° F., for 30 to 45 minutes or until fish flakes easily when tested with a fork. Makes 6 servings. VEGETABLE STUFFING V2 cup margarine or butter 1 clove garlic, minced 1 V2 cups chopped onion 2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and 1 cup chopped celery chopped 1 cup chopped fresh mushrooms 3 cups soft bread crumbs Vz cup chopped green pepper Vz teaspoon salt In saucepan, melt margarine. Add onion, celery, mushrooms, green pepper, and garlic; cover and cook until tender. Combine all ingredients and mix well. Makes 3V2 cups stuffing. 17 A classic French sauce based on a blend of mustard, oil, vinegar, and seasonings, New Orleans Remoulade Sauce is served cold. Highly seasoned and reddish in color, it is spooned over shrimp, crab, or scallops and served as an appetizer, but can double as a main dish salad when served in an avocado half. It is considered one of the best Creole recipes New Orleans has to offer. SCALLOP REMOULADE APPETIZER (opposite P a ge ) 1 V2 pounds bay scallops or other V2 teaspoon salt scallops, fresh or frozen % teaspoon thyme 1 cup water Shredded lettuce V2 cup dry white wine Remoulade Sauce 2 slices onion Hard cooked egg, optional 2 sprigs parsley Thaw scallops if frozen. Remove any remaining pieces of shell. Rinse with cold water and drain. In saucepan combine water, wine, onion, parsley, salt, and thyme; bring to a boil. Place scallops in poaching liquid; cover and simmer 2 to 5 minutes or until tender. Drain scallops and chill. Arrange scallops on a bed of shredded lettuce in individual seafood shells or in cocktail glasses. Spoon about 2>V2 tablespoons Remoulade Sauce on top of each serving. Garnish with chopped hard cooked egg, if desired. Makes 6 servings. REMOULADE SAUCE ¥4 cup tarragon vinegar Va teaspoon cayenne pepper 2 tablespoons prepared brown V2 cup salad oil mustard Vi cup chopped celery 1 tablespoon catsup Vi cup chopped green onion 1 V2 teaspoons paprika 1 tablespoon chopped parsley V2 teaspoon salt In small bowl combine vinegar, mustard, catsup, paprika, salt, and cayenne. Slowly add salad oil, beating constantly. (May also be done in a blender.) Stir in celery, green onion, and parsley. Allow to stand 3 or 4 hours to blend flavors. Makes VA cups sauce. King mackerel is a favorite South Atlantic and Gulf sport fish. They are fast, powerful swimmers and put up a furious fight when caught. Marinating slices of this large fish in lime juice before boiling is a technique used in French Martinique. MARINATED KING MACKEREL, NORFOLK STYLE 2 pounds king mackerel steaks, or 2 tablespoons melted margarine other fish steaks, fresh or frozen or butter V* cup lime juice 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon dried marjoram Vs teaspoon pepper leaves, crushed Thaw fish if frozen. Combine lime juice and marjoram in shallow dish. Add steaks, turning to moisten both sides with lime juice. Cover and place in refrigerator. Marinate 1 hour, turning once. Place fish in single layer on a well-greased baking pan, 15x10x1 inches. Brush fish with margarine. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Broil about 4 inches from source of heat for 10 to 15 minutes or until fish flakes easily when tested with a fork. Fish need not be turned during broiling. Makes 6 servings. 18 Creole Jambalaya, considered one of the classic Creole dishes, can be made with crab, shrimp, chicken, ham, and a variety of other ingredients — one at a time, or all together. The origin of the dish is evidently based on elements of French and Spanish cooking. The Spanish paella, a mixture of rice, meat, and seafood is a close relative. CREOLE JAMBALAYA (opposite page ) 1 V2 pounds raw, peeled, and 1 can (28 ounces) tomatoes, deveined shrimp, fresh or undrained, cut up frozen 1 can (IOV2 ounces) beef broth 2 tablespoons margarine or butter plus 1 can water % cup chopped onion 1 cup uncooked long grain rice V2 cup chopped celery 1 teaspoon sugar V4 cup chopped green pepper V2 teaspoon dried thyme leaves, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley crushed 1 clove garlic, minced V2 teaspoon chili powder 2 cups cubed, fully cooked ham Vi teaspoon pepper Thaw shrimp if frozen. Melt margarine in Dutch oven. Add onion, celery, green pepper, parsley, and garlic. Cover and cook until tender. Add remaining ingredients, except shrimp. Cover and simmer 25 minutes or until rice is tender. Add shrimp. Simmer uncovered to desired consistency and until shrimp are cooked, about 5 to 10 minutes. Makes 6 to 8 servings. The oyster loaf, popular throughout America in the nineteenth century, was known in New Orleans as la mediatrice or the mediator— peacemaker. It was the one thing a man felt might effectively stand between his enraged wife and himself when he came home after spending an evening carousing in the saloons of the French Quarter. OYSTER LOAF 1 pint oysters, standards, fresh or V2 cup melted margarine or butter frozen 2 loaves French bread, 15 inches V2 teaspoon salt long and 3 inches wide Vs teaspoon pepper Fat for deep frying 2 eggs, beaten Y2 cup tartar sauce Yi cup milk 1 V2 cups shredded lettuce % cup all-purpose flour 18 thin tomato slices 2 cups soft bread crumbs Thaw oysters if frozen. Drain oysters; dry between absorbent paper. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Combine eggs and milk. Roll oysters in flour, dip into egg mixture, then roll in bread crumbs to coat evenly. Refrigerate at least 30 minutes to firm coating. Slice bread loaves in half horizontally. Pull out the inside soft crumb from bottom and top halves of bread. Brush the bread shells inside with melted margarine. Place bread shells on baking sheet and bake in a moderate oven, 350° F., 3 to 5 minutes to warm and crisp. Place oysters in a single layer in a fry basket. Fry in deep fat, 350° F., for 2 to 3 minutes. Drain on absorbent paper. Spread inside of bread shells with tartar sauce. Place shredded lettuce in the bottom halves of the loaves. Arrange tomato slices on lettuce, and fried oysters on top of the tomatoes. Cover with top halves of the loaves of bread. Cut each loaf into 3 portions. Makes 6 servings. 20 Bouillabaise (its name derived from the instruction, "Quand co commence a bouillir—baisse!" translated: "When it starts to boil — lower the heat.") is one of the most famous of New Orleans dishes. When Thackeray visited New Orleans in 1856 he proclaimed the bouillabaisse he had at Boudro's on the lake the best he had ever tasted. Later in his Roundabout Papers (1891), he recalled this New Orleans stew: "At the comfortable tavern on Pontchartrain we had a bouillabaisse than which a better was never eaten at Marseilles; and not the least headache in the morning, I give you my word; on the contrary, you only wake with a sweet refreshing thirst for claret and water." CREOLE BOUILLABAISSE (opposite page) 2 pound red drum fillets or other V2 cup chopped celery fish fillets, fresh or frozen 1 clove garlic, minced 1 pound sea trout fillets or other 5 cups water fish fillets, fresh or frozen 1 can (1 pound) tomatoes, V2 pound raw, peeled, deveined undrained, cut up shrimp, fresh or frozen V2 cup dry white wine 1 pint oysters, fresh or frozen 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 1 can {6V2 ounces) crabmeat, 1 tablespoon lemon juice drained and cartilage removed 1 bay leaf 2 tablespoons margarine or butter V2 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons olive oil Vi teaspoon saffron V4 cup all-purpose flour l A teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 cup chopped onion Thaw fish and shellfish if frozen. Remove skin and bones from fish. Cut each fish into 6 or 8 portions. In a 4 to 5 quart Dutch oven, melt margarine. Add olive oil and blend in flour. Cook, stirring constantly, until light brown in color. Add onion, celery, and garlic. Cook, stirring constantly, until vegetables begin to brown. Gradually stir in water. Add tomatoes, wine, parsley, lemon juice, bay leaf, salt, saffron, cayenne pepper, and about x k of the fish. Bring to a boil and simmer for 20 minutes. Add remaining fish and cook 5 to 8 minutes longer. Add shrimp, oysters, and crabmeat. Cook another 3 to 5 minutes or until all the seafood is done. Makes 8 servings. 22