W10047—-10M

BULLETIN

OF THE
\ \
gricultural and Mechanical College
of Texas

(In Cooperation with the United States Department of Agriculture)

March 1, 1919 EXTENSION SERVICE No. B-—49

SILO CONSTRUCTION  

An Attractive Farm Scene with Silos and Dairy Barn.

T. O. WALTON

Acting Director, College Station, Teicas.

SILO CONSTRUCTION.

INTRODUCTION.

The farmers of Texas, who are getting the best results from stock farms, are
‘hose who have so planned their crop-acreage and rotation as to provide at all times,
an ample supply of the proper sorts of feed for the class of stock which they are
raising. Silage makes a satisfactory foundation ration for all cattle. Silage
crops of some kind may be easily and profitably grown on all tillable Texas soils.
A large variety of crops are adapted to silage purposes. A sufficient amount of

‘ forage to furnish silage for the stock can almost invariably be grown on the average

farm regardless of drought or excessive moisture. The silo, therefore, haslbeen
spoken of as “insurance against drought.”

The use of silos leads to soil improvement, as they permit the return of all
crop-residues to the soil in the form of barnyard manure. They can be used to
preserve feed that might otherwise be spoiled by drought or by excessive rain,
Less labor is required to produce a silage crop than a cotton crop and less labor is
required to feed it to stock, than to harvest a cotton crop.

For these and other reasons, the Extension Service is encouraging the building‘
of more silos in Texas. It is recognized that different types of silos are suitable
and practicable on different farms and in different communities. The Extension
Service does not advocate any particular type of silo for every section, but desires
to give definite dependable information in regard to the fundamentals for silo
construction and the use of silage.

With this in view, employees of the Extension Service are encouraging farmers
in every possible Way to secure, erect and fill silos, and feed silage to different
classes of animals. Specific inquiries will be answered by mail.

This bulletin contains information regarding some of the fundamentals of silo
construction and a more elaborate discussion of how to construct some of the types
of silos, commonly used in Texas.

Bulletin B-39,' “The Underground Silo,” published by the Extension Service
last year treats of the underground silo in Texas, and a copy may be had by writing
to the Extension Service, A. and M. College of Texas.

Complete bulletins have already been published by the United States Depart-
ment of Agriculture on homemade silos, and on silage feeding, so that it is not
deemed necessary to duplicate such instructions in this bulletin. The bulletins
mentioned, may be had free by addressing the United States Department of Agri-
culture, Washington, D. C., and requesting the bulletins by number as follows:
No. 578, “The Making and Feeding. of Silage;” No. 755, “Homemade Silos;” which
includes instructions for erecting concrete silos.

T. O. WALTON, Acting Director.

SILO CONSTRUCTION

By C. M. EVANS.

Every silo must incorporate certain essential features in order to prove success-
ful, and in addition to these, there are other desirable features which add to its
value. The absolute essentials are those which are necessary to insure the preser-
vation of the silage. Both the essential and desirable features are herein outlined.

ESSENTIAL FEATURES.

lmperviousness of Walls: The fundamental principles for the preservation of
silage are the retention of moisture within the silage and the exclusion of air. For
this reason the silo must be moisture-proof; moisture must be prevented from passing
out, and air from passing in.

Strength of Walls. The walls of the silo must be sufiiciently strong to resist
the pressure of the silage, which acts outward, in all directions as the silage settles.
The friction of the silage on the walls and the weight of the material, produce a.
crushing force which is greatest near the bottom of the silo.

Smoothness of Walls: To permit the silage to settle freely and to prevent
the formation of airpockets, the walls should be smooth on the inside and have
neither shoulder nor offsets. Air pockets result in more or less spoiled silage.

DESIRABLE FEATURES.

Durability: Outside of the absolute essentials of silo construction, the most
desirable feature to be secured in a silo is durability. This depends, first, upon
the silo’s strength, and second, upon the durability of the material used in its con-
struction. To be durable, any material must resist the action of the weather, the
constant wetting and drying, freezing and thawing in the winter season and any
disintegrating action which may be due to the silage itself. Some materials will
disintegrate with age and other materials suffer from rapid decay when subject to
the warm moist condition which exists in the silo. *

Cost and Repair: A silo should require the least possible expenditure in the
way of labor and material for its construction and upkeep. A silo which must be
adjusted for shrinkage and expansion is of less value than one which does not need
such attention. Often this work is neglected, and loss results. Some silos must
be repainted frequently to be attractive; this means added expense. All parts
should be equally durable and lasting. The replacement of parts which are short
lived and the substitution of new pieces for those which have either become decayed,
faulty, or for any other reason, add materially, in many cases, to the cost of
maintaining a silo.

Wind Resistance: A silo should be so constructed as to resist high winds, which
may occur during the time it must remain empty. Insurance companies regulate
their rates of storm risks on the various types of silos by their relative merits for
wind resistance.

Convenience: A silo should possess conveniences for filling, having the doors
so arranged" that the silage may be easily removed from day to day, when desirable,
and so constructed that they can be put into place and removed with the least effort.
They should permit easy access. to the silo and allow the removal of the silage with
the least possible amount of labor.

Portability: There are instances where tenants or others desire a silo that
may be used in one place for a time and then moved to a new location. Under such
circumstances this feature should be given due consideration.

3

I»!

Fire Proof Construction: It adds materially t0 the value for any building t0
be made of fire proof materiall The importance 0f this feature is realized when
the large annual loss by fire is taken into consideration. This is of less importance
when the silo is not located near a barn or other buildings.

Appearance: All farm buildings should have a good appearance. This fea-
ture adds to the attractiveness and the value of the farm. Other things being
equal, the construction of a permanent silo, having a neat appearance, is most de-
sirable.

Simplicity of Construction: It is sometime advisable to select a silo which can
be constructed without using skilled labor, or special tools, or to purchase one ready
for erection without the aid of skilled labor. ’

Cost: One of the important features to be considered in the selection of a silo
is the cost. The silo which will afford storage for silage at the least cost for con-
struction and upkeep per ton, is the silo to build, other points being equal.

LOCATION AND SIZE OF SILO.

It is now customary to locate silos outside of the barn. The majority are so
constructed that they do not need such protection, and it is not economical to place
them in a building where they will occupy space that may be put to other use.

When located outside of the building and connected by a passage provided with
doors, the objectionable odor of the silage may be kept out of the building and the
silage may be delivered to thecutter more conveniently. A very common arrange-
ment is to select such a location as will permit the passageway from the silo to the
barn to be a continuation of the feedway in the barn.

The usual silo to-day is 30 feet or more in depth. A larger percentage of
moldy and otherwise inferior silage is found nearer the top than at the center or near
the bottom, proving that a certain weight is necessary to compress the silage and ex-
clude the air, so as to insure perfect preservation. The quality improves as the depth
increases, due to the weight from above. At present good practice seems to favor
a depth of at least 30 feet. Some limitation in height may become necessary in
case of light construction, on account of the wind or of the necessity of strength
in the Walls to resist crumbling. In the construction of masonry silos, a greater depth
than the average is advisable, many being built as high as 50 feet. However, the
greater the height, the greater the power necessary to operate the cutter and blower
in filling, so for this reason, it is not often advisable to build them more than 40
feet high. Capacity may be increased by going from three to six feet in the ground.

The capacity of a silo varies as the square of the diameter, while the wall sur-
face varies directly as the diameter. This means that in so far as capacity is con-
cerned, the silo should be of as large diameter as possible. But there are other
limiting factors that must be taken into consideration. Tall silos hold more in com-
parison to diameter on account of greater pressure. In silos of wide diameter
it is necessary to handle the silage twice to get it out and when silage is left ex-
posed to the air for a short time,—-say more than one day,—-it spoils.

Enough must be removed daily to permit it to keep fresh. In well settled silage
the spoilage does not penetrate more than an inch per day and if one and one-half to
two inches are fed from the surface daily, the remainder will keep fresh. In warm
weather the spoiling will take place much more rapidly than in cold weather, mak-
ing it necessary to remove from the surface a greater depth each day in order to keep
it fresh. After it has been placed in the silo there is more or less settling, the amount
of which will depend on the condition of the silage and the amount of tramping given
when the silo is filled. Under average conditions the settling will amount to about
one-sixth or one-fifth of the total depth.

Table No. 1 gives the capacity of various sizes of round silos. Table No. 2 in-

4

dicates the size needed to furnish herds of different numbers the daily requirements.
The table of capacities is based upon -the observation of Professor F. H. King, of
Wisconsin, and assumes that the silage is made of well matured corn and that the

silo has been filled and allowed to settle for two days; and that after the silo has been '

filled and allowed to settle for two days, it has been refilled to the top. The amount
which should be fed daily is based upon an average weight of forty pounds per
cubic foot. The weight will vary with the kind _of crop, grain contentand moisture

_ content. Sorghum is lighter than good corn and feterita is lighter than sorghum.

In studying this table it will be seen that a silo 16 feet in diameterand thirty feet
deep will hold 119 tons of silage, while if its depth be forty feet it will hold 180 tons
or more than one-half more. Thus the economy of silage in the depth of the silo
is observed.

TABLE NO. 1. CAPACITY OF ROUND SILOS IN TONS.

For ordinary silage, somewhat dry, take two-thirds or three-fourths of amounts
stated.

Inside height DIAMETER OF SILO.

of silo.

8-ft. 10-ft. 12-ft. 14-ft. 16-ft. 18-ft. 20-ft. 22-ft.
20 ft. 17 26 38 51 67
21 ft. 18 28 41 55 72
22 ft. 19 30 43 59 77
23 ft. 20 32 46 63 81 103
24 ft. 22 34 49 67 86 110
25 ft. 23 36 52 71 91, 116 143
26 ft. 24 38 55 75 97 123 152
27 ft. 25 40 58 79 102 130 160
28 ft. 27 42 61 83 109 137 169 205
29 ft. 28 44 64 87 114 144 178 216
30 ft. - 30 47 67 91 119 151 187 226
31 ft. 31 49 70 96 125 158 196 237
32 ft. 33 51 74 100 131 166 205 248
33 ft. 35 53 77 105 137 174 215 260
34 ft. 36 56 80 109 143 181 224 271
35 ft. 37 58 84 114 149 189 234 282
36 ft. 39 61 87 118 155 196 243 29.3
38 ft. 41 66 94 128“ 167 212 262 316
40 ft. 45 70 101 138 180 228 282 ' 340
45 ft. 165 215 269 330 399
50 ft 310 382 462

Table giving the capacity of round silos in tons of silage.

TABLE NO. 2.

Acreage to Fill

No. Tons Silage Diameter Height 10 Tons 6 Tons
Cows. for 6 months. of Silo. of Silo. per Acre. per Acre.
12 __________ __ 37% 10 26 3 61A
15 __________ __ 401/2 10 28 4 6%
20 ________ ____ 54 12 27 51/; 9
25 __________ __ 671/2 14 25 7 11
30 __________ __ 81 14 29 8 13%
35 __________ __ 941/5 16 26 10 16
. A40 __________ __ 108 16 29 11 18
45 _ __________ __ 1211/; 18 27 12 20
50 ________ ____ 135 18 29 14 22%
75 __________ __ 202 20 34 - 20 34
100 __________ __ 270 20 4O 27 45

Table showing requirements for differgnt herds.

FOUNDATION.

Any building should rest upon a foundation broad enough to prevent appreciable
settling and deep enough to rest on soil that is never disturbed by frost. In case of
a masonry silo the foundation may be advantageously a continuation of the wall.
While a very cheap addition to the capacity of the silo is secured by putting the floor
and footing several feet below the surface, yet beyond a certain depth the difliculty
in removing the silage is so great as to more than balance the economy of securing ad-

ditional space in this way. Three or four feet up to the first door is not considered ob- -

jectionable. There should not be a shoulder or offset in the wall between the found-
ation and silo wall, as this‘ is sure to be the cause of spoiled silage due to improper set-
tling of silage. '

FLOOR.

Where the silo rests upon dry clay or non-porous soil and where the foundation
is deep enough to prevent undermining by rats, the floor may be omitted. In general,
however, a floor is quite desirable. A silo fioor need not be expensive as the weight of
the silage will not be so very great, if distributed evenly over the surface, and will be
just as firmly supported as if the floor were not used. A masonry fioor, four to six
inches in thickness will be satisfactory. If properly mixed sand and gravel can be
obtained, a good cement fioor can be constructed of one part of cement to five parts of
sand and gravel. The concrete should be thoroughly packed and troweled.

ROOF.

It is frequently believed that the greatest disadvantage of a roof lies in the danger
of the silage freezing and for this reason many silos have been erected in Texas with-
out roofs. The roof is important for other reasons, however. Without a roof the
silage is mixed with snow or wet down with rain. A silo without a roof becomes a
catch-place for dust or anything carried in the wind and a favorite feeding ground for
pigeons and birds of the neighborhood. A roof frequently compensates for its cost
by affording a more pleasant place to feed from in bad weather. It also adds to the
appearance of the silo. A door for filling—large enough to admit the carrier or ele-
vator from the silage cutter—should be placed in the roof. This may be either a sim-
ple trap door or a dormer window with glass. Some light should be admitted to the
silo, otherwise it will be necessary to use a lantern when removing the silage. A
roof on a wooden silo makes it more substantial. Roofs are not absolutely essential,
in Texas. Where there is no roof, the silo may be filled above the top sufiiciently to
take care of most of the settling by using a string of paling fence around the top. The
pitch of the silo roof may vary from one-fourth to one-half. Steep roofs permit
the silo to be filled above the top of the wall so as to be nearly full after settling.
The flat roof does not permit the silage to be elevated to a point during filling. The
framing for a silo roof is shown on page No. 11'. Prepared roofing is regarded as
the best covering and will make a roof more nearly air-tight which is very satis-
factory when a good quality is used. It also has the advantage of being easily put
in place. Roofing should be cut in three cornered pieces, so that the length will ex-
tend from the top of the cone to the eaves. In this way the material will be used
economically and an airtight roof will be had, retaining the heat. Frame boards do
not make a good roof; if they are used, the cracks should be carefully covered with
battens.

ANCHORING.

Silos of light construction, if exposed to the force of high winds, should be
securely anchored. Such silos should be fastened by anchor bolts extending into the
foundation and also by guy wires extending into a deadman or anchor post in the
yard, placed at some distance from the silo, insuring the effectiveness of the guy
wires. Many times advantage can be taken of the opportunity to fasten the silo
to adjoining buildings in so far as the location will permit.

6

 

DRAINAGE.

Drainage is of great importance and should receive more consideration than is
usually given it in the construction of farm buildings and especially in masonry silos.
Any soil will support a greater load when dry than when wet. This is especially
true of clay. Unless the silo is to be located on high, well_drained land, drain tile
should be used to remove the ground water. These tile will carry ofl’ all excess mois-
ture and prevent the ground adjacent to the silo from becoming muddy, especially
during and immediately after heavy rains. l

DIRECTIONS FOR ERECTING WOODEN STAVE SILOS.

The erection of wooden stave silos is a much simpler proposition than the un-
initiated might suppose. The actual amount of time and labor necessary to com-
plete this operation, of course, depends upon local conditions and the size of the silo.
From one to two days should be suflicient time to cover the setting up of any size
silo above the foundation and exclusive of the roof. "In the case of medium, to small
sized silos, one day will generally be found suflicient and the largest should not re-
quire more than two days, where the labor and proper material for building the
scaffold, are available. Four men will be necessary in erecting to the best advantage.
It does not require an expert and most wood stave silos are erected by farm labor
without even the aid of a carpenter.

THE SCAFFOLD.

Material for a scaffold for 8, 10 or 12 ft.
silos, 5 bents and 3 stages. '

5 pieces of 2x4, the height of the silo,
either 1 or 2 pieces for uprights.

10 pieces of 2x6-12 of 2x8-1-2 free from
knots if possible for walking boards.

15 pieces 1x4-10 sheeting boards for hori-
zontal ties to lay walking boards on.

ll
Q.

fi
V, 

agonal braces.
For larger diameters add bents as needed.
For greater heights add stages as needed.

‘u lvnxuiim         
       p    - i    a     

ERECTING SCAFFOLD.

Set up 2x4 uprights at a point 3 feet outside
of silo foundation and 10 feet apart Set these
uprights plumb. -Put up 2 diagonal braces be-
tween each pair of 2x4 uprights as high as one
can reach from the ground, using one 8 D. nail

in each end of braces. Seven feet from the
Na 2_ Shows Construction of ground put on a 1x4 horizontal tie between each
* Scafiolding. two uprights, using three 8 D nails in each end.

Keep these horizontal tie boards as level around the silo as possible. Now put up
walking boards inside the uprights—one between each pair of uprights—the ends
of walking boards resting on the horizontal tie boards and against the uprights.
Climb upon walking boards and proceed with stages above just as with the one built

30 pieces 1x4-12 sheeting boards for di-i

from the ground. Each row of horizontal ties should be 7 feet above the ties.

below.
7

'SETTING UP DOOR FRAME.

Take off one pair of diagonal braces on scaffold opposite place where door frame
is to set. Carry the door frame through this opening with the top end first. Fasten
rope to top bar of door frame and with the aid of two men on the running board of
scaffold, or with pulley on upright of scaffold, lift frame upright and set tongue

and groove of frame staves on line traced on foundation. Set door frame on end

marked “bottom”.
PLUMBING AND BRACING.

Use true level or plumb line on frame, being_sure that the frame is plumb side-
ways, in, and out. Then brace the frame solidly to the barn if possible; if not, to
scaffold uprights. The frame may have a slight bend in it. Look down the frame
from the top and if the frame is not straight after being plumbed, brace frame at
bend and pull the spring out of the frame, bracing solidly to hold the frame true. It
is very difficult to erect a good silo when the door frame is not plumb. Braces should
be nailed to a 2x4 on frame and be left intact until the hoops are tightened.

SETTING UP STAVES.

All wooden silo staves should be beveled.
When setting up staves 24 feet long or longer, use
one man at the top, one at the middle and one
man at bottom of stave, each man to tack on a
row of barrel staves. When setting up shorter
staves, one man at the top and one at the bottom
will be sufficient. Use barrel staves from sugar
barrels, cracker or salt barrels. Split the wider
barrel staves. Fasten first barrel stave to door
frame at right angles, using shingle nails, then
nail to each silo stave as it is being set in place.
Pull silo staves as tightly as possible by hand be-
fore nailing. The bottom row of barrel staves
should be on the inside of silo and the other rows
should be on the outside. Allow one man at top
to fasten top end of stave first, a man at the bot-
tom to fasten next and a man in middle to fasten
last. Pull up a crooked stave as Well as can be
done by hand and fasten to barrel stave, even
though you have a crack one-half inch wide, as

~ the silo hoops will close the crack to a perfect

No. 3. The Putting on of Staves- joint. When the staves are of two pieces, set
up a long tongued end next to the door frame, fastening with barrel staves, as in
the one-piece staves. Next to.this long stave, set up short length stave with tongued
end. Set up staves in this way from each side of door frame, alternating the lengths
and using only staves with tongues on ends. When all tongued end staves are up,
put on first and second hoops. When two hoops are on at the bottom, put up top
section of frame and begin putting up long pieces with grooved ends. When all long
grooved ends are in place put on two or three more hoops. Now put up short pieces
with grooved ends as.was done with the long grooved ends and put on all hoops. Tap
top ends lightly with hammer to settle grooved ends over tongues to a tight joint.

Keep inside of staves on a line marked with a nail in top foundation. _ When hoops are
put on, staves will pull in, so that the outside staves come. to this line, which makes
the silo of» a correct diameter. Plumb every tenth stave 1n and out and edgeways,
and brace plumbed wall to the scaffold. Set _up staves half way around from each
side of door frame, putting in last stave opgposite the door frame.

PAINTING TONGUE ANI) GROOUE.

Paint tongue and groove joints while setting up staves so that the paint will still

be fresh while the staves are being fitted together.

PUTTING ON HOOPS.-

Put on second hoop from the bottom first, as"

shown in cut. To get hoop level around the silo,
use measure from foundation to second hole in
frame and with this measure, set 10D nails about
one-half inch in every eight staves around the silo.
Lay hoop sections on these nails and bend the
nails up over the rods. Leave these nails over
the hoops when the silo is finished. Put on the
lug connections, so that the nut screws against the
heavy end of lug. The first hoop put on will
not reach around the silo without using draw rod
with extra lug and nuts as a splice. When
the draw-rod is in, and all the connections have
been made, with each nut started so that the rod
is about half way through the nut, pull up all the
nuts as tightly as possible, jarring the staves into
place with the pull of the" hoop and watching to see
that every tongue and groove fits as the staves pull

together. _
the bottom.

Take off the row of barrel staves at
Put up the first and third hoops.

Use a measuring stick, as long as’ from hole to
N“ 4' Pr°°ess °f Putting °n H°°ps' hole in the door frame to set the nails for all the
hoops above. All of the hoops should now connect without the use “of a draw-rod.

Do not place the lugs in rows up and down the silo wall.

lug about three staves to the right of the one be-
low it. Take off the top rows of barrel staves as
you approach them.
that they run about level around. This may be
done by standing 200 feet from the silo. The
hoop may be tapped up or down with a hammer if
leveling adjustment is needed. Last, PULL ALL
NUTS AS TIGHT AS IS POSSIBLE.

PUTTING ON INSIDE TOP RIM.

This rim should be a bundle of 3-8x4 inch
rough sawed hardwood, shipped green, on account
of its bending qualities. There should be suf-
ficient material to make a double rim around the
topof the silo. Nail on inside of silo with edge
flush with the top of the silo, using 6D nails. This
wood rim when dry, stiffens the silo wall and
makes the top of the silo a solid ring, to which
may be attached anchor pull and a plate for rafter
feet.

PUTTING ON ANCHORS.

Bend and fasten anchor plates on inside of
9

When hoops are all on, see?

Run them in a spiral, each

No. 5- Time to Put on Rim.

. - anchorage is necessary.

‘wood rim on sides of silo where you will need your anchors. With half inch bits
:bore through holes in anchor plates. Put “U” bolts through the holes and fasten
2831116 with nuts. Attach cable “U” bolts, using two clips to fasten cable lap. Dig
iholes four feet deep directly under “U” bolts and*8 feet out from silo. Put four

feet anchor rods in each hole with bent end downward. Fill holes one foot deep
"with cement. Grout, and finish filling holes with dirt. Tamp same downthor-
' ’ oughly. - Attach turnbuckles to threaded

down, so that threaded end just comes
through threads of turnbuckles. Screw eye
in turnbuckle out, until the end of the eye
threads is just through the upper end of the
turnbuckle. Attach the end of the anchor
cable to the eye in the turnbuckle, using two
clips for each connection, as was done at
the top. Tighten the turnbuckle until the
cable is pulled straight and tight.

GENERAL PLANS FOR ERECTING METAL
SILOS.

In erecting a metal silo, the foundation

is the most

i m p ortant

part of the

silo and if

p r no p e rly ‘if

,_ put in, the 

 silo is very 

in is bad   Y
 j u d gment A
to build a
"lsilo with-
out protect
ing it with
 a properly

, . No. 6. ‘Todpwand Base Anchor. built fOIIII-
dation. The metal sheets are set into reinforced
concrete, which in turn forms the best possible
anchorage protection against storms. No other

   
  

Mark out a circle, the diameter of which is
12 inches greater than the diameter of the silo.
This will leave six inches around the walls of the
silo on boththe inside and outside. Make an 
excavation of '24 inches from top of ground to bot- - ‘
tom of trench. This trench is for the reinforced
concrete foundation on which the silo will rest
and the concrete will extend 12 inches under the
metal walls of the silo.

10 No. 7. Ground Anchor.

ends of rod in ground, screwing turnbuckles-

 

The concrete should always be reinforced to prevent cracking. Bend up one
edge of the reinforcing so that it will make an upward turn in concrete under the
edge of the silo. Metal silo sheets usually come in large sections—-about 30 inches
wide and 96 inches long. These sheets are flanged and punched at the silo factory
and are bolted together in the field during erection.

Bolt two sections or rings of sheets together; afterwards set the silo section into
the excavation, so that it is absolutely level. Then pour concrete and let the con-

crete set over night. If the section has been put in the concrete, true, round and.

level, the ‘rest of the silo sheets will fit quickly and snugly, as the silo units (put out
by practically all silo factories) are interchangeable. '

A concrete collar, about 18 inches wide, is usually put around the interior wall
of the silo and the dirt is then excavated sufficiently so there will be a slight pocket
in the center for the accumulation of any excess water. This foundation, as will be
seen, firmly imbeds the silo in reinforced concrete. Most metal silo factories furnish
one experienced man to aid in the erection of silos.

L 4

Ha/f/fi/‘Qoa/a/ Jrcf/or? fizroqgb ‘ f"

é,__¢--

\”'l

Ha/f 1700f flaming P/an.

11

DIRECTIONS FOR THE CONSTRUCTION OF A HOLLOW TILE SILO.

Foundation and Floor: Where a good rock foundation is to be had reasonably
close to the surface, it needs only to be leveled up with cement and the silo built
upon it. The sketch No. 8, shows a tile foundation which is recommended for firm,
sandy or other soils of a like nature. For black waxy land that is inclined to crawl,
an additional concrete footing four inches thick and properly reinforced, is necessary.

Begin by laying a course of tile face downward (tongue up) at right angles to the
circumference of the silo. Lay these in sections of two tile, each with their adjoin-
ing ends coming right under Where the center of the silo wall will be located.
Directly over this course and fitting into it, lay a course of tile (tongue down—face
up). Only one unit, crossing the circumference, as shown in cut is necessary for
this course. The tile thus laid, should be grouted into place with concrete and mor-
tar, proper provision being made for the placing of the floor tile, which is usually
done after the walls are entirely completed. The concrete for the silo foundation
should be mixed as follows:

One part Portland cement, three parts sand and five parts gravel. The cement
may be of any recognized commercial brand. The sand must be clean, sharp and
free from any dirt or clay. Crushed rock, that will pass through a 1 1-2 inch screen.
may be used instead of gravel. The sand and cement should be mixed together first
in dry form, and turned thoroughly twice; then the gravel or stone should be added
dry, and the whole mass turned again. The mixture is then ready for water, which
should be added until the entire mass is thoroughly wet; it should be turned until it
is so completely mixed that the cement is fully distributed throughout the mass.
After the concrete has become sufiiciently hard for the work to proceed, the first
course of the wall should be laid. This will consist of starter slabs, as shown in
the following sketch: '

The first course of starters should make a perfect circle and the diameter of
the circle should be whatever is necessary to permit the use standard interlocking
tile lengths, with the inside edges touching. This will not be difficult, however, as
a sufficient quantity of tile cut into-four inch and eight inch lengths, can be had to
eliminate practically all cutting of tile to fit small spaces.

For the floor, level up the bottom of the excavation with a cushion either of sand‘:
or cinders, whichever is cheaper_and most convenient to secure. The floor shown
above, is constructed of 4x12x12 hollow tile, laid fiat and as close together as possible,
covered with not more than an inch surfacing of cement, which binds the tile together"
as well as providing a smooth surface.

WALLS.

Having completed the foundation base, everything is now ready for the con»
struction of the silo walls, the course starters having already been placed as previously"
explained. The tile should be laid in a mortar, composed of one part Portland cement.
to three parts clean sharp sand. The horizontal mortar joints should be 1-2 inch
thick. The ends of the tile are always to be put against each other on the inside of"
the silo. The outside edges will be spread more or less, depending on- the diameter.
This “V-shaped” space should be thoroughly filled with mortar to within an inch or"
two of the inside edge, in order to make these vertical joints tight. Careless Work-
manship here should be guarded against, since the temptation to slight these joints is-
strong.

Use the level and the plumb line frequently to keep the walls going straight and‘.
true. The diagram on page 13,,will show what reinforcing should go around each;
course of tile that is to be reinforced. It should be put in place before the mortar"
is spread, so that it can be imbeded in the mortar and thus be preserved from rust._

12

UIQJQ all‘!-
asag /o uqqzaag $90.13

aswg J10 uqx/a/ra/J

    

      

o y t’ ~
§ 1 \\\\\\\\\\
§\\\\\\£

 

The ends of the
reinforcing;

 

  wire, should be
 f """""i" '5' ""11 thoroughly twis-
 §  , ted or wrapped
  '3', i together after
1_   : being d r aw n

2. f T tight. Around

the doors they
should be loop-
ed to upright

I
I
\
a
U
j. "l'4"IY‘-‘
.-
f
|
l
A

iii-i.-
Yo.‘ *.-‘\- “A ' v

"irrrrz" w“

"<-' |'r' u‘ ..-.

jam-rods a n d
twisted around
themselves. The
interior of the
silo must be fin-
ished up with a
coat of cement
plaster, a sufli-

..,.\,- ¢ .;...-,

N 3 f v 4*1"§'v*J
-' f}. ‘I, 1,01‘: -,"Q g gfflgvl ‘u g,~h"lvq'l\r(e)“. _

\-'\.~;-o~_'

.
u, j\‘u,".fi"l v - .3 a.

'- 
u o -_ n, a‘ y “‘n_q~'_

ciently thick to

 
       
 

su/ao/g 40515193, ,,'3/€y

 

"rt?" pinks. __.‘
l
,—,I gl._p-q' m "on .\ n '

smooth up the
wall. This plas-
ter is made by
mixing together

4 ' z‘
,‘r.\ L-

         

 
  

  
        

      

 

 

'“—- one part cement
l to three part-Si
I ‘<4 § E   enough’ W a t e r
i n i\%\\\\\§ ‘\Q\\\\\&\\_}.\‘\\§ g\‘.\\_  ;V\\\1\.\\\§% ‘I \\\§§ * p. t O m a k e  ) f
:   as --»-- the proper
L___  Working consis-
tency. It is usu-
ally most con-
_ venient and economical to apply this plaster coat, after the
\  walls are ‘completed, starting. at the top and putting the
fi y? plaster on, as the scafiolding 1s removed.
s Q, The hydrostatic pressure of wet silage is considerable,
\\\ ' especially at the bottom of the silo, hence, if it is the prac-

' tice to fill with excessive wet silage, it would be well to use

standard Waterproof compound in the interior plaster.
DOOR OPENINGS.

_ When the point in the walls, where the doors are to be-
gin is reached, a space of proper width, depending upon the
type of doors to be used, is-reserved for the door to be
set in. At each side of the door-opening a length of rein-
forcing wire (8 to 12 inches) should project out from the
center of the walls, in order that the wire may be looped
around upright rods or other anchorage and thoroughly"
twisted to secure the benefit of the full tension of the wire.

DOORS.

The selection of doors for silos is largely a matter of personal preference. The

13

door shown in the cut No. 13 in detail, is simply cheaply and easily made from
materials which may be quickly procured from local lumber yards. Its use requires
a special jamb block and more complicated construction around the doors.

  

Do o r- WC/amp

{-111

  
   

111-1-.-
11-1_ Q

f" far 35x90”! f4’-
' be/ow 351901" few
0f 72/1. 0F_ Do OR -

    

   

‘WI/EXRRN-Imimilmirfliafé’.  \\*-‘ ‘
 |%

ma  yii=
.._._ ..._  I11» -_.__ .
ll a 

\
n?"
l

    

No. 10. Detail Door for Hollow Tile Silo.

A permanent, and practically an everlasting door is strongly recommended for
the hollow tile silo and it has been found that a first-class metal door, either steel
orgalvanized iron, can be fitted into a tile wall at low cost and will, in the long
run, prove much more economical than a door that has to be renewed every few years.
The additional cost of the door is largely, if not entirely made up (even in first cost)
by the sawing in erection expense of the tile walls, since no special jambs have ‘to
be constructed. Metal doors -also provide a stiff, rigid anchorage to which to tie
and twist the reinforcing wires.

LADDERS.

Ladder rungs, where needed, may be easily procured from local dealers or black-
smiths and are set into the tile wall between courses of tile at convenient distances
so as to provide safe and easy climbing. Metal doors, when used, usually have fittings
on them that are designed to serve as ladder steps, thus making few, if any regular
ladder rungs necessary.

14

  

lVawber 9 

  

Number 3 VV/‘ffi
No. 11. Reinforcement Table.

.0\\|h .\0 QQUK§QIV

15

CHUTE.

Every silo should
have a chute t0 pre-
vent the wind blow-
ing and wasting the
silage as well as for
the protection against
cold and rains. A
chute may be built of
either tile, wood, or
galvanized iron and
attached to fit over
the doors. (See cut
No. 12).

Cut No. 13 shows
a tile silo 16x42 at
the Keaton Dairy,
Temple, Texas, built,
in 1911, of common
hard burned block
5x8x12, cut radial
and curved to make
the circle,‘ making
smooth wall with same thickness mortar joint, in-

8 _ m
No. 13. Tile Silo at Keaton Dairy

No. 12. Convenient Chute for Loading
Silage Into Wagons.

side and out. This and many others of
the same type have given perfect satis-
faction and are permanent structures,
with no reinforcing exposed to the weath
er, therefore, they are storm and fire-
proof.

The construction of the silo shown by
cut No. 14 is the same as that of other

masonry silos. There is one size block
to handle, with the exception of the half-‘Y
block for the door openings, set the same
"from foundation to top; but it should be
plastering on the outside, below grade
line, with water-proof plaster, the same
as on the inside. Silage juices do not
raffect burned clay.

In constructing tile si’os, when it is
impossible to get vitrified non-absorbing
‘tile, the inside should be treated by ap-
plying coal tar with a brush. This will
also prc-"Lect mortar cement from ill ef-
fects of silage juices. Treating the inside
mortar joints of any masonry silo with
1331‘, Will be fOllnd W611 WOTth while. No. 14. Complete Tile Silo.

16

BRICK SILO.

The brick silo shown in cut N0. 15 was erected in 1917 ,on the State Fair grounds,
at Dallas, Texas, and was placed on top of the black soil, with 12 inch reinforced
footing. Although the ground is fiat and rather marshy, after big rains, this silo
is in perfect condition and does not show any signs of
cracking.

Fifty-seven hundred common brick were used in the
construction of this silo, exclusive of the chute (which
may be built of wood at a very low cost).

Brick silos have given excellent satisfaction, as they
are not affected by storms or fire and the material can
be secured from any lumber yard. If properly con-
structed, they are substantial and satisfactory. The
comparative cost,‘ however, is excessive, on account of
the cost of the labor in its erection.

FOUNDATION.

A brick silo can be laid on clay or rock, if it does
not require an excavation of more than 3 feet. A 13
inch footing wall should be built 12 inches high around
the entire circle. On the center of this Wall, a 9-inch
wall should be started with a header course and fiinish-
ed with a header course at the grade line, using a N0.
6 wire in each mortar joint of this foundation. If a
steel door frame is used, the 9-inch wall and foundation
should be made a true circle, or if a fiat wooden door is N, 15_ Brick Si],
used, allow that portion of the wall, directly below the
door opening and for 9 inches on each side of the door, to be flat. This section,
which is 3 feet 6 inches wide, should be flat from the foundation to the top of the
silo. If not on a solid foundation, use 12x12 concrete foundation, carrying three

5-8 inch twisted steel bars for reinforcing.

WALLS.

On the header course previously noted, an 8 inch wall should be started and
carried up 20 feet, with a header course every sixth course and finished with a row
lock course. The door opening should be started about 4 feet from the bottom oi‘
the silo, which should be below the ground, if excavated for foundation. On the row
lock course, the 4 inch wall should be started flush with inside of an 8 inch wall and
continued to the top. If the silo is less than 16x40 feet, no 8 inch wall is necessary,

but same may be 4 inch wall from the bottom.
DOORS.

If steel doors and door frames are used, all the wall should be a true circle and
the labor saved and the perfect fit of door will more than compensate for such cost,
however, a very satisfactory frame for wooden doors can be made of angle iron, or

concrete, by using a proper form.

PLASTERING.

The walls should be plastered on inside with a water proofed plastering, applied
according to manufacturer’s directions.
17

MORTAR.

The mortar should be one part best Portland cement and three parts good, clean,
sharp sand, made up with lime water, carrying barely enough lime to make it set up.

REINFORCING.

A No. 6 wire should be laid in each third mortar joint for 15 feet, then use less
wire gradually from there to the top; 3-8-inch bolts, 6 1-2 inches long, should be
placed every 6 feet on each side of the door openings and 3 1-2 feet apart for
hanging the chute.

SCAFF OLD.

The scaffold is all on the inside and is the same as that in other masonry silos,
requiring very little lumber. It is easily hoisted and lowered with blocks. Any ex-
perienced erector can build the scaffold in one day and it is easily taken down and
may be hauled on one wagon.

WOODEN SILOS OTHER THAN STAVE.

For use in Texas, experience indicates that only red wood, fir, or cypress will
give satisfactory long-time service, when used in the manufacture of silos. Red wood
and fir silos are available in the common stave types, but cypress lumber has become
too valuable to justify the using of long length staves. A very satisfactory type of
cypress silo has been developed, however, by using short lengths of cypress, built into
sections at the factory. These are built as shown in the accompanying cuts, into a
rigid building, by making the walls of inter-locking sections, banded with hoops of
some durable wood-like cypress. Where heart cypress is used in the making of these
sections, the silos will last a long time. The makers of this type, claim in its favor
that cypress is durable and the form is easily constructed, and that the stationary
wooden hoops remain tight.

The same sort of a foundation is recommended for all wooden silos, the funda-
mentals of which are discussed on preceeding pages.

A At times conditions may arise which will justify the use of a cheap, or flimsy
type of a homemade silo, made of ordinary lumber. Such silos should be regarded,
however, as only for temporary use, to bridge over an emergency arising from a
temporary necessity for a larger tonnage than the regular system of farming would
ordinarily demand. This condition sometimes arises from destruction of grain crops
by drought, or the damaging of hay and fodder crops by excessive rains.

l8



N0. 16. The above cut shows the construction of a popular make of wooden silo manufactured
in sections which is easily errected. '

19