B U L L E T I N
Agricultural and Mechanical College
0i Texas

(In co-operation with the United States Department of Agriculture)

MARCH, 1920 EXTENSION SERVICE 3-55

Propagating Pecans

By Badding and Grafting

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Address
T. O. WALTON, DIRECTOR
College Station, Texas.

 

PROPAGATIN G PECANS BY BUDDING AND GRAFTING.

By J. A. Evans, Pecan Specialist, Extension Service,
A. and M. College of Texas.

It is sometimes estimated that there are a hundred million wild pe-
can trees in Texas, and it certainly would be within bounds to say there
are ﬁfty million. Many of these trees stand too close together to admit
of proﬁtably top-working all of them, and some stand in unfavorable lo-
cations, Where they would not produce paying crops even after being work-
ed over. But, after making liberal deductions for such cases, there are
still many millions left that should be budded or grafted .

There are thousands of farms crossed by streams and draws, the
margins of which are skirted by pecan trees. Generally the banks of these
channels are covered by dense growth of underbrush and briars, mixed
with the trunks of dead trees and other debris. Such places serve no
useful purposes, but do serve as homes for countless injurious insects.
They should be cleaned up and kept clean, and the pecan trees growing
there should be budded to ﬁne varieties, thus converting the waste lands
into the most proﬁtable parts of the farms.

Native trees are shy and irregular bearers, as a rule, and produce
inferior nuts; but there still occurs an occasional tree that bears a regular
and heavy crop of nuts that grade high on all points of the scale. By
the use of buds from such a tree any vigorous native one can be trans-
formed.

Some idea of the economic importance of this work——to say noth~
ing of its educational value—can be had by placing the number of trees
suitable for budding at 10,000,000, and the average yield ten years after
working at twenty-ﬁve pounds per tree. At 25c per pound such a crop
would bring an income of $62,500,000.00. This estimate is conservative
in all its items, particularly in that of time, as a tree three or four inches
in diameter will produce a considerable crop four or ﬁve years after being
budded, and even a budded sprout will produce a good crop in less than
ten years.

The order in which the different methods of budding and grafting
are discussed in these pages is not based upon their relative importance,
but upon the time of year the work can be done. It is possible to chip-
bud before the time for either bark-grafting or patch-budding, and the
chip-budding is therefore placed before them.

Patch-budding is the most important method, and is recommended
for general use. Particular uses for the other methods will be found un-
der their proper headings.

Various methods of budding and grafting pecans are practiced, all
with greater or less success, and it is not intended to assert that the methods
hereinafter given are the only successful ones. But they cover every case
that may arise, and it is thought best to deal with them only, in order
to avoid confusing the beginner.

The various steps in these methods are not only indicated, but are to
3

some extent discussed and the reasons therefor given. This is done to
call into play the judgment of the operator, without which the great
task of budding and grafting the pecan trees of Texas can never be ac-
complished.

MANNER OF TREE GROWTH AND HEALING.

Before entering upon the discussion and illustration of the different
methods of budding and grafting it is well to take into consideration the
manner of growth of trees, as the processes involved in the operation of
growth are the same as those involved in the union of scion with stock.
Anyone handy With a knife can, after being shown the simple mechan-
ical operation, bud and graft successfully if both scoins and stocks hap-
pen to be in proper condition at the particular time. But it requires a
little knowledge of plant physiology, and considerable thought, to enable
one to take advantage of all conditions in order to extend the working
period from spring till fall. Morever, this knowledge and thought are
of equal importance in connection with the treatment of buds and grafts
after union has been effected Accordingly, only so much of plant phy-
siology as is necessary to direct attention to the processes involved is
here given—and it is urged that those undertaking to bud and graft pe-
cans make constant mental reference to these statements, not only in
connection with the acts of budding and grafting, but also in connection
with the“ care of the buds and grafts after union.

Trees take certain food materials from the atmosphere through
their leaves, and certain others, dissolved in water, through their roots.
This water ascends throughithe longitudinal cells of the white sap wood.

These food materials, both those from the air and those from the
soil, are acted upon in the leaves by sunlight, and are there transformed
into elaborated plant foods, ready to be used by the tree in its growth.
These prepared foods pass from the leaves through certain cells in the
inner portion of the bark. This can be clearly demonstrated by wrap-
ping tightly with string or wire a rapidly growing young sprout, and ob-
serving that it continues to grow above the wrapping, but not below, its
supply of food from the leaves having been cut oﬁ’. It is therefore plain
that the leaves of trees are their food factories.

But trees lose their leaves in the fall, so how can they start growth
again in the spring without any food factories? .

Before the advent of cold weather a tree stores up plant food with
which to start growth in the spring. The ﬁrst leaves start from this reserve,
and in turn the leaves become factories to prepare more food, from which
the growth of the tree goes on.

But plant food, even after preparation in‘ the leaf, is not a living
part of the tree. An agency is, required for the transformation, just as
an agency is required to change our food into living body. This agency,
in case of a tree, is performed by a layer of cells, called the cambium
layer, between wood and bark.

All union and healing, taking place after the operation of budding

4

and grafting, is done through the agency of this layer, operating with
the food supply at its command.

By removing a section of bark from a vigorous young pecan sprout
in the spring, a considerable mass of cambium cells can be scrapped up
with a knife. An exposure to the air for a period of about a minute
will turn the mass brown, and an exposure of about two minutes will
turn it black. The cells are then dead, and a bud placed upon them
would not live.

In the light of these observations three important points in bud-
ding and grafting can be plainly seen: (1) Cambium must be brought
into contact with cambium; (2) it must be quickly done; (3) the cuts
must be tightly sealed.

SELECTION OF TREES TO BE WORKED.
Constitutional Vigor:

When it has been decided that the pecan trees on the farm are to
be worked over, the ﬁrst step is the selection of the proper trees. In
this connection the item of the greatest importance is constitutional
vigor. There seems to be no other class of trees that varies so widely
among its individual members in their fruit production as does the pe-
can. Of two trees near each other, budded to the same variety, of the
same age, and growing in the same soil, the one may produce only ten
pounds of nuts, while the other produces a hundred pounds, all because of
inherent weakness in one stock and inherent vigor in the other. There-
fore, in the event of choice between a small tree and a larger one, or
between a tree in exact position and one a little out of line, let the mat-
ter of constitutional vigor be the deciding factor.

Position :

In any deep fertile soil pecan trees should not stand nearer together
than sixty feet each way, while in deep alluvial valley land seventy feet
each way is better in the long run. However, trees in a single row might
stand much nearer together than sixty feet, as they would not be ex-
posed to competition on all sides.

Of course it will not be possible to arrange native trees already
growing on the land into perfectly straight rows, but the ﬁeld should
be staked off into squares, and the tree nearest to a stake, size and con-
stitutional vigor being considered, should be chosen. This will fairly
proportion the ground area and air space among the trees and will also,
to a greater or less extent, approximate straight rows.

Size:

From sprouts to trees a foot in diameter marks the practical range
of trees for budding and grafting. The larger trees are more difficult to
work, particularly by the inexperienced, and it would be better,perhaps, for
beginners to choose the smaller ones.

5

It is possible to top-work trees that are more than a foot in di-
ameter, but since it is bad practice to cut back branches beyond two or
three inches in diameter, the time and expense involved in cutting back,
inserting buds, after care of buds, removing sprouts, etc., render the
operation impractical.

Shape or Form:

The best height at which to head a pecan tree is some ﬁve or six
feet above the ground. This will allow room for cultivating under the
tree, and will at the same time be low enough to make the gathering of
the nuts easy.

In case of choice between two otherwise equally desirable trees, the
one heading high and the other braching some ﬁve or six feet above the
ground, choose the latter.

In case of choice between two otherwise equally desirable trees, the
head of one being composed of two or three large limbs, and the head of
the other of ﬁve or six smaller limbs, choose the latter, unless the size of
the former tree is such that its two or three branches are under two inches
in diameter. In that case the former tree should be chosen, as requiring
less work in budding or grafting.

The reason for choosing smaller limbs is that their ends heal over
more quickly after being cut, but this does not enter as a deciding factor
below two inches in diameter. -

(All the above remarks are intended to be applied to trees of con-
siderable size).

, gig/am?
Figure 1.

(a) Matrix cut in stock for bud; (b) scion with bud; (c) bud which has been cut to ﬁt
the matrix; (d) bud in place on stock, tied and waxed.

6

CHIP-BUDDING.

The ﬁrst method of budding in point of season is chip-budding. It
derives its name from the small chip cut from the scion and inserted in a
notch cut for it in the stock.

The illustration, Figure 1, will make the operation quite clear.

Chip-budding can be successfully done during only a short period,
say three or four weeks preceding the rising of the sap in the spring. It
is not intended to assert that not a single chip-bud ever sets after this
period, but, in comparison with other methods, such a small percentage of
union is secured as to render useless its further employment during the
season.

The matrix or bed for the chip-bud may be cut at either a node or
an internode—-that is, at a bud or between buds. The latter has the ad-
vantage of being more likely to result in a smooth cut, as there is gen-
erally a gnarl underlying a bud, and it is best to choose a smooth place
between buds. ' a

In preparing the matrix for the bud, use‘ a sharp knife, making a
downward cut at an angle of forty-ﬁve degrees, extending through the
bark and a very little way into the wood. (See Figure 1, m). Next
move the knife up about an inch above this incision (Figure 1, n) and
make a smooth cut downward, going through the bark and taking a little
wood, thus removing the chip. _‘

Next cut a chip bearing a plump, vigorous bud in like manner from
a scion, or bud-stick, about the same size as the stock on which the matrix
has already been prepared, being sure to get this chip long enough for
its new bed (Figure 1, c). If the chip is too long for the bed, the bed
can be made longer by cutting out; but if the bed is too long for the chip,
there is no remedy except by the use of another bud.

In the effort to secure a good ﬁt of bud-chip and matrix particular
attention should be given to the shape and size of the wood on the inside
of the bark of the chip. The thin cambium layer lies around the edge of
this wood, and if the cambium of the chip does not connect with the cam-
bium of the stock there will be no union.

The thickness of the bark of different pecan trees varies, and it is
obvious that if a chip be taken from a scion of thin bark and placed on a
stock of thick bark, the cambium layers will not connect in case of a per-
fect ﬁt on theloutside. But if attention be paid to the shape and size of
the wood-cut in both bud-chip and stock, and these be made to correspond,
the cambium layers will connect, although there may not be a snug ﬁt on
the outside.

It is probable that more unsatisfactory results have come from ef-
forts at chip-budding by failure to observe this important point than from
any other cause; and it often happens that the most careful operator se-
cures poorest results for the very reason that he always gets a snug ﬁt
of bark to bark on the outside.

7

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The Texas Proliﬁc has very thin bark, and buds from it have been
considered most diﬁ-‘icult to put on by the chip-bud method, when, in fact,
it is one of the easiest of all varieties to operate, if attention be given to

the point above suggested.

Figure 2.

A matrix cut in a stock with thick
bark, and a chip-bud (inner side of
cut) cut from a scion with thin
bark. This bud-chip would make a
snug ﬁt, outside, but notice the dif-
ference in the wood-cut of the two.

The cambium layer is around the
edge of the wood, and should con-
nect in stock and scion. This matrix

hould be cut larger, irrespective of
t e outside ﬁt.

After securing a good ﬁt, as indicated,
wrap the bud carefully to the stock, using
both hands, back and forth, being sure to
tie down well at both ends. (Figure 1, d).
After tying, seal the edges of the cut well
with wax. (Formula on last page).

It is notnecessary, immediately, to
do anything further to the limb or young
tree on which a chip-bud has been placed.
It would do no harm to the bud to cut oif
the stock a foot beyond it, andremove all
native buds from that portion, because the
tree is not active at the time, and the un-
ion of bud and stock must take place by
the use of stored food. But if the bud-
chip should fail to unite, the stock might
be in better shape for patch-budding, later,
if left uncut.

By the timethe buds of the stock be-
gin to show green, it will be easy to tell
whether or not the inserted bud has united.
In case it has, the stock should then be cut a
foot beyond it, and all native buds on that
portion rubbed off. It is well, however,ex-
cept in case of very small trees, to leave
some limbs below the inserted bud, or allow
the development of some new shoots there.
The leaves on this outgrowth will keep the
stock in a healthy, growing condition until
the development of the growth from the
scion enables it to perform that function.

When the scion has obtained a growth
of from six inches to a foot in length, the
cutting away of these lower branches should
begin. They should not all be removed at
one time, but gradually, at two or three cut-
tings, extending over a period of about a
month. Henceforth remove all growth ex-
cept from the scion.

The object ofleaving a foot or so of the stock above the bud is
to use it as a support to which the new growth from the bud can be bound.
This portion should be cut away the following winter.

The string binding the chip-bud should not be cut as early as should

the string binding the patch bud.

No deﬁnite number of days can be

stated, since the process of development in different buds is so varied. As
a general rule the string should not be cut‘ until its cutting into the bud-
chip renders the operation absolutely necessary. In the process of union
the cambium cells form a ring around the edge of the cambium of the bud
and the cambium of the bed or matrix; and if the string be cut too soon,
this rapidly growing ring will raise the chip out of its matrix, leaving it
unsupported save by the yet soft deposit of cambium, thus rendering the
new branch an easy victim to wind or accident. When it is time to cut
the string let it be dpne by passing the knife across the folds of the string
on the side of the stock opposite the bud. Do not attempt to unwind the
portions of the cut string—leave them alone.

ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES OF THE CHIP-BUD.

The chief advantage of the chip-bud lies in the fact that it can be
used in advance of spring, before the bark will slip so as to render possible
the operation of patch-budding. This advantage is considerable when
there is much budding to be done and an early start is necessary.

It also enables the operator to use buds from gnarly bud-sticks,
which buds are not suitable for use in patch-budding.

The union from the chip-bud is also one of the best, once secured
and matured, and possesses the added advantage of a longer period of
growth by reason of its early start.

The chief disadvantage of the chip-bud lies in the delicacy and ab-
solute accuracy required in the operation, rendering a high percentage of
living buds difficult to secure, even in the hands of the experienced oper-
ator, and in the hands of the novice, next to impossible. 5r

Chip-budding requires that stock and scion be approximately the
same size, in order that the cambium in the bud may meet the cambium
in the stock. This is a very limiting factor, both in securing buds and
selecting locations for them on the stock.

BARK GRAFTING.

This was formerly considered one of the most important of all
methods of operating pecan trees, because of its adaptability to top-work-
ing trees too old, too large, and too thick of bark to admit of patch-bud-
ding without ﬁrst growing new sprouts on which to bud. However, the
discovery that the patch bud can be successfully placed in the thick bark
of large limbs, and in that of trees of considerable size, has robbed this
method of much of its importance. Still it deserves treatment because
it makes possible the use of rough gnarly scions that could not be used
by any other method. g i

The operation can be easily understood by examining the following
illustrations (Figures 3, 7 and 8). y

In connection with the subject of bark grafting certain questions
will naturally arise, some of which are here suggested:

(1) When does the season for bark grafting open and when does
it close?
9

(2)
(3)
(4)

What is the very best time for the work?
When should the cutting back be done?

How far back on the tree should the cutting extend——that

is, how large a branch is it admissible, under best usage, to cut?

(5)

What should be the condition of these cut-back limbs at the

time of grafting?

(6) Why should some lower branches be left uncut?

(7) What percentage of the limbs should be left?

(8) How large a tree can be top-worked?

(9) At what point should a limb be cut?
(10) When should scions be cut, and how kept pending use?
(11) What should be the condition of the scion at the time of

grafting?
(12) How should a scion be cut for the purpose of inserting?
(13) What steps are to be observed in inserting, tying, and waxing?
(14) What should be the size of a scion, and how many budsshould
it have?

(15) How many scions should be used on a given stock?
(16) What after care should the graft receive?

These questions will be answered in consecutive order:

Season (1): The work can be done as soon as the bark will slip
in the spring, and it is possible to perform the operation successfully any
time during spring or summer, provided there is abundant sap in the tree.
To do so, however, would necessitate the carrying of scions in cold stor-
age for a long time. Then, too, a graft cannot be carried over dormant,
after being put on, as can a bud, because the cutting back, necessary to
do the work, would force out the buds of the scion, and, when the work
is done late in the season, the immature new growth from these buds
might be killed by a freeze.

The practical range of the season is about forty-ﬁve days.

Best Time (2): The very best time for bark grafting is when the
buds ﬁrst swell in the spring, and for thirty days thereafter.

Cutting Back, When (3): The cutting back should be done when
the grafts are to be inserted. If done too early there will be a dead por-
tion of half an inch or more at the end of the stub, and this would inter-
fere somewhat with the grafting.

Cutting Back, Size (4): Branches should never be cut back beyond
four inches in diameter. Two inches and under is better, but in extreme
cases it is sometimes necessary to cut to three or even four inches. It
should be remembered, however, that the larger the wound the longer it
will take to heal; and in case of very large wounds complete healing-over
may never take place. In such case, the exposed portion of the end of
the cut limb or tree will eventually decay, leaving a hollow. This hollow
will catch and retain rain water, leading to further decay, and possibly

10

to the ﬁnal destruction of the tree. The weakened grafted portion may
at any time prove an easy victim to storm.

Condition of Stock (5): The condition of the tree at the time the
scion is inserted should be active, that is, the sap should be up. Evi-
dently there will be a slight cavity around the scion, notwithstanding the
use of the wedges hereinafter recommended, caused by the raising of the
bark of the stock when the scion was inserted. (See Figure 3, v and x).
This cavity should be quickly ﬁlled with new tissue, and the scion built
up to, in order that union may take place.
Hence, the necessity of the most active condi-
tion of the tree.

Lower Branches (6): Some limbs are
left below the cut ones to furnish leaves neces-
sary to the health and continued growth of
the tree while the new top is being establish-
ed. They should be cut back the second year,
and worked like the ones above, if they are as
high as ﬁve or six feet above the ground—-
this being the ideal height to head a pecan
tree—but if they are nearer the ground than
ﬁve or six feet, they should be smoothly cut
close to the body of the tree during the win-
ter following the grafting, and the entire
growth forced into the new top. Each par-
ticular tree, by reason of the inﬁnite variety
in form, becomes a separate subject for con-
sideration.

Limbs Left, Percentage of (7): In pre-
paring a tree for top-working, about one-
fourth of the limbs should be left. This is
sufficient to furnish leaves to maintain the tree
in a healthy condition.

In case of cutting back a tree of consider-

after the tree is in full leaf, the entire top
should not be cut away. (See Figure 5). At
least one of the main top branches should be
left to bring sap up to the base of the stubs,

Bark graftiig as it wa f - . ~
merly done. ‘Notice thesopglﬁ- (a): (b): and (c), Flgure 5- These Stubs

ings at v and x. These 0 en- '

ings can be largely meventeg by should not be too long as to make the scion too
paring the bark of the stock thin far frgm the bagg of Supphp

before inserting the graft, and

by using wedges between the The lower branches should be patch-budded

strings and the bark of the st .1 . .
(see Figure s). Before ettenﬁf during the season (Figure 11) and the buds

ing to do bark grafting by the ' 1
new method be ‘Sure to read the carried over the season dormant. 'lhe branches
answer to question 13 under that should then be cut back and the top cut out

h d. -
ea close to c.

11

Figure 3.

able size for bark grafting late in the season, l

 

 

Figure 4.

A tree cut back ready for top-working early in
the spring. It is about eight inches in diameter,
and the lower branches are six or seven feet above
ground. The lower branches will furnsh leaves for
ﬁrst year, While the new top is being established.
These lower branches can be cut back and grafted
the following spring——or better still, they can be
patch-budded according to Figure 11, and the buds
carried over dormant till the following spring, when
it will be necessary to do nothing further than cut
the limbs to force out the buds.

The uncut branch will not
only serve to bring up sap,
but the prepared plant foods,
manufactured in its leaves,
will aid the union of scion
and stock, and help to heal
the wound made in grafting.

In case of any operation on
a tree after it is in full leaf,
particularly if it be of con=
siderable size, some leaves
should be left above the
Wound.

When the Work is done in
early spring, and the union
of scion and stock takes place
by means of the stored plant
food, the leaves that put out
from the scoin will enable it
to perform the necessary
functions by the time the
stored food supply becomes
exhausted.

Size of Tree (8): An-
swering this question, in the
abstract, without respect to
the physical and _ﬁnancial
limitations, it might be said
that any tree, however large,
can be top-Worked. However,
in the case of large trees, the
trouble, time and expense in-
cident to cutting back the
branches to the proper size,
and the difficulties encount-
ered in the after care of the
grafts, render the operation
impractical.

As a general rule trees more than eight inches in diameter should

not be attempted. This rule, though, is subject to exceptions.

It often

happens that the head of a pecan tree is composed of many small branches

rather than a few large ones.
without cutting limbs of too large size.

12

In such cases the cutting back can be done

Figure 5.

The same tree shown in Figure 4, but in this case
cut back for bark- grafting after it is in full leaf.
Part of the top was left to nourish the grafts at a, b,
and c. Note that the branches for some distance above
c, as at d, have been cut out to furnish air and sun-
light to the growth for a, b, and c.

Cutting Back, Point (9):
How far to cut back limbs
from the body of the tree
requires the exercise of
some judgment. Generally
about a foot is a good dis-
tance. However, the size
and condition of the limb
should control over dis-
tance. A limb should not
be cut where it is too large,
and a scion should never
be inserted in a curved,
gnarly, or knotty place.
Select a straight section

a where the bark is smooth

and even.

Scions Obtained When,
and How Kept (10): Pro-

pagating wood to be used»

should be cut before the sap
rises in the spring and
should be kept in cold stor-
age wrapped in damp moss
or sawdust at nearly freez-
ing temperature. In this way
it can be carried for sev-
eral weeks, provided the
moss or sawdust be" kept
moderately damp. An or-
dinary ice house serves the
purpose very well when the
scoins are not to be kept
late in th eseason. How-
ever, the temperature of an
ice house is likely to be var-

' iable, and at some time it

may be high enough to al-
low the budsQto put out.
many buds have been lost
in this way, and many have
also been lost by failure to

keep the moss or sawdust moist. For very late work, by the bark-graft
method itis better to order scions when needed from some nursery that has

regular cold storage facilities.

Where trees for obtaining scions are available, and the operator de-
sires to cut them for himself, they can be carried dormant for some time
either in an ordinary ice house or by burying a foot deep in the ground, in

13

 

"any? 1».=~'_=~rr-- w 1w

a cool shady place onthe north side of some building. In the later case
care should be taken to protect the wood from an excess of moisture by
covering with boards and by ditching to drain the water away.

Generally speaking, the condition necessary for keeping buds is the
presence in only limited quantities of light, heat, and moisture; and any
contrivance that will accomplish this result can be» used.

 

Figure 6.

Figure 6 represents a ridge of growth, called a callus, made from reserve plant food,
at the end of a scion. It is by means of this growth, and a like one made by the stock,
that graft and tree grow together; and, had the scion been in place on the stock at the
time growth was being made the two would have united. The particular scion from which
this drawing was made had been carried, in damp moss, over the state for some two or
three weeks during April, and the buds on it were turning green. It 1s too late to use a
scion after it has reached this stage of development.

Condition of Scion (11): Scions should be used when activity ﬁrst
begins-just as soon as the bark begins to slip. A graft put in after it has
exhausted its supply of stored food can not unite, and a perfectly dormant
one goes through too long a wait before the active processes of growth be-
gins.

Perfect dormancy of the graft was formerly emphasized in order to
allow time for the openings around it, (Figure 3, v and x), to ﬁll with new
tissue. Since then, however, means have been found to almost entirely pre-
vent these openings, and the sooner the active processes ensue after the
graft is inserted the better.

Cutting Scions, How (12): For cutting scions for bark-grafting a
sharp knife is necessary, and a blade with a round or budding end is best.

The callus on the end of the scion (Figure 6) would have been thin-
ner if the cut surface had been longer, as the same amount would have
been deposited over a greater length. This, of course, would tend to les-
sen the chance of union. But, since a longer union is a stronger union,
being formed, it is thought that a cut from one and one-half to two inches

is best.

The surface of the stock is curved, and the cut surface of the scion
will be ﬁat if made by a straight blade. It was formerly thought that this
ﬂat surface should be hollowed out in order to make is conform to that of
the stock. It is not thought that a slight space between the cambium of the
scion and the surface of the stock may be of a distinct advantage in allow-
ing room for a sufficient deposit of tissue to form a union. At any rate, it
is not necessary to hollow the ﬂat surface of the scion, except in case of
placing a rather large graft on a rather small tree, when the divergence
would be too great.

In addition to the cut surface on the front of the scion (Figure 7) some
operators prefer to make a slight short cut on the back also, just going
through the bark and taking a little wood.

14

Examination of a number of unions showed that a majority of them
started at the lower inside of the scion. For this reason, and for the
further one that the cut on the back would necessarily break the contin-
uity of the ring of the union, it is now advised to make only one cut.

 

Figure 7.

A scion that has been prepared for bark-grafting. The cut is straight, and is one
and one-half inches long.

Before inserting the scion be sure to trim the back of it, as far as
it will be pressed down into the stock, all buds and rough places. This will
prevent the parting of the bark from the wood of the stock for so great a
distance, and will leave the work in nice smooth condition for wedging
down, and closing the cavity around the scion, as shown under the next
heading.

Inserting, Binding, and Waxing (13): Before attempting to insert
the scion, trim the back of the stock thin in a place an inch or more wide,
and a little longer than the cut surface of the scion (Figure 8). Be sure not
to cut through the white bark—just remove the corky outer "portion so as
to make it ﬂexib1e—then when the graft is pushed down, the bark will give
and not separate from the wood for a long distance on each side.

When the bark has been properly trimmed, slit it through the center
of the trimmed place as far as the scion will extend when inserted, and lift
up the edges a little, gently, with the point of the knife. Push the scion
down until the cut surface is covered, tie well with strong, soft twine, and
wax over string and all. (First waxing). After waxing, make two wedges
from a small limb, and insert one on either side of the graft, between the
string and the bark of the stock. Make a neat job of it, being sure to cut
the wedges off smooth with the stub of the stock. The wedges should be
thin at the bottom and thick at the top, and designed in shape to reduce
the opening about the scion. If they will not go down by gentle pressure,
trim them so they will do so. Reference is made to the statement that a
binding string or wire around a young tree will stop the passage of plant
foods by closing the longitudinal cells, and any considerable pressure of
the wedges against the bark of the stock would entirely stop all processes
of activity through the particular portions pressed upon.

It is not the object, in the use of the wedges to close entirely the
cavity on each side of the scion, but to reduce it to a very small one, im-
mediately along the edge of the scion. Same space is necessary for the de-
posit of new cells to form a union. This deposit begins, always, at the line
where the bark of the stock parts from the wood; and in its growth, it builds

toward the graft. Consequently, if the space be large, the graft may perish

15

 

I

ll l‘ i: 
fl y‘  l 
‘ll. llllllllllllllll

(l ,
I ‘ f
l

A bark-graft, inserted, tied,
and wedged. Note that the
bark of the stock has been
trimmed to make it ﬂexible.
Also note the wedges between
the bark and the strings.
These wedges almost close the
openings around the graft, and
cause what little openings
there are to be immediately
along the edges of the graft.

 _T:_.-;

   

i
—¢—-_\

Figure 8.

before this growth reaches it and unites with,

it.

The wedges serve to prevent the lift-up
of the bark of the stock from around the graft
in the drying-out after cutting and trimming.

After Wedging rewax liberally (second
waxing), entirely covering over wedges and all,
being sure to coat all the trimmed portion of
the bark lightly, in order to seal. The wax
may cost a cent or two, but the expenditure
will pay.

After this second waxing, wrap with a
strip of cotton cloth about an inch wide, ﬁrst
taking a hitch or two around the graft, and
continuing in descending spirals around the
stock. The end of the cloth can be either stuck
down with a little wax or tied with a string.
It is not necessary to cover the top of the stock
with the cloth.

The use of the cloth is not absolutely

necessary, but it obviates the necessity of fu-

ture re-waxing, prevents the entry of insects
and keeps bees from removing the wax.

Size of Scions and Number of Buds (14): '

There seems to be little limitation as to the
size of the wood that can be used. In general
practice sizes ranging from a cigar down to
a lead pencil are employed. These sizes, how-
ever do not represent the extreme limits of
range. The size of the scion bears some little
relation to the size of the stock on which it
is to be used, though that relation is not def--
inite-—in general, larger scions on longer
stocks, and smaller scions on smaller stocks.

All newly grown wood with large pithy
centers should be discarded.

There should be from two to four buds on
the protruding portion of the scion. Theor-
etically one bud is enough, but to meet the

contingency of accident more should be left. However, it should be borne in
mind that the greater the protruding portion of scion, the less chance of
living. Each of its buds will require to be nourished by sap through the
stock, and if there be too many buds they may die before a good union is

effected.

Number of Scions (15): A very good rule to govern the number
of scions is one for every limb two inches in diameter and under, and one
additional for every increase of one inch in diameter over two inches. By

16

this rule a three-inch limb would ‘have two scions, and a four-inch limb
three scions.

If more than one scion is used in one limb, all the resulting branches
except the best one should be cut away when the end of the limb (stock)
is completely healed over, the extra scions having been intended for no
other purpose than to assist in this healing. Several branches arising
at the same point will, if let alone, form a crotch of such nature as to
render likely the subsequent splitting out of the limbs by their own weight.

After Care of Scions (16): If the work has been done according
to the preceding directions, it will need no further attention before it can
be told whether or not the grafts are going to live.

It is thought that the reduction of the cavity about a graft will
tend to promote union; but, on the other hand, it is possible that the
pressure of the wedges would sooon retard growth by preventing a large
cambium deposit at the place of union. Accordingly, when the growth
from the graft is well started, the cloth wrapping should be taken off,
the wedges pushed out, and the cloth put back. This will provide for ex-
pansion ati the place of union, and will doubtless result in accelerated
growth.

Numerous native sprouts will put out near the ends of the cut-off
limbs. These sprouts should not be removed at once, except those in the
immediate proximity to the graft. They will serve as a support to the
new growth of the scion, and will aid in the formation of new tissues.

The growth of the graft will be greater by reason of their presence for

some time than it would be without them. They should be removed by
degrees, as the growth and developmnet of the grafted portion enables
it to perform the functions of a top with less and less assistance. There
is no hard-and-fast-rule—one graft will grow more rapidly than another.
Generally, all native sprouts should be removed by midsummer.

Except the removal of some native sprouts, no other attention will
be necessary for about a month after pushing out the wedges, when it
will be time to cut the binding strings.

The strings should be cut by passing a knife across them "on the
side of the stock opposite the graft, cutting through both wrappings and
strings.

After the strings are cut it is necessary to support the new growth
by wrapping it to a stay, which may be either nailed or tied to the stock.
This precaution should not be overlooked, and the results of all former
labor lost in a Windstorm. “What is worth doing is worth doing well,”
and what is worth doing well is worth following up well. Supporting
the grafts may be a little trouble, but it is not the object of this bulletin
to tell how to graft pecans without trobue, but rather with its aid.

(If a bark graft fails to grow—and some of them are going to do
that-the best native sprouts should be saved and budded by the patch-
bud method during the month of July.

Sprouts of this character, issuing through the thick bard of old

17

Figure. 9.

Figure 9 is a photographic reproduction of a book-graft and a patch-bud put on
in demonstrating to a class at A. and M. College, April, 1918. Note the board support-
ing the graft to prevent its blowing out before forming a strong union.

18

trees, are likely to become constricted by the bark at the points of issu-
ance. The deposit of growth from the new sprout is likely to be on the
outside of the bark, rather than in contact and union with the wood of
the tree. There will be only a small stem of wood through the bark,
joining the limb, outside, to the wood, inside; and when the limb attains
sufficient weight the stem will break.

To prevent this condition the bark around the place where the
sprout issues should be pared thin, and some gashes should be cut close
to the sprout on either side).

OBSERVATIONS ON BARK-GRAFTING.

It is often convenient to combine bark grafting with patch bud-
ding. When a limb is cut back, for instance, to force out a patch bud,
and there is doubt as to whether or not the bud will grow, a graft can
be inserted at the time of cutting, and the chance of success thereby in-
creased.

The predominating disadvantage of bark-grafting lies in the com-
parative ease with which the grafts are blown out; and, for this reason,
too much stress cannot be laid upon supporting them well.

During the spring of 1918 bark-grafting was largely a failure in
Texas, because of the very dry summer and fall of the preceding year.
The scions had an insufficient supply of stored food, and the stocks were
also in poor condition.

This system of Work is not recommended for general practice fol-
lowing droughts during the late summer and fall of the preceding year.

PATCH-BUDDING.

Taken all-in-all this is by far the most important method of work-
ing pecan trees. Since the discovery that patch-buds can be success-
fully placed in the thick bark of large limbs and trees of considerable size,
it bids fair to largely supplant the use of the bark-graft. It possesses,
over the bark-graft, several distinct advantages: (1) it brings the entire
camblum surface of the scoin into intimate contact with that of the stock;
and, for this reason, a much higher percentage of success can be attained
by its use than by any other. (2) It can be used from April to October,
rainfall being sufficient. (3) It makes it possible throughout the season
to take buds, fresh, from one tree and place them on another—in fact, such
buds are best——while only storage wood can be used for grafts. (4) A
given number of buds will go much further by its use than by grafting.
(5) It obviates the necessity of cutting back the tree until it can be seen
that the buds are living. (6) It makes it possible to form the head of
a young tree, tall and without low branches, at any height and in any shape
desired. (7) Where only one graft can be placed at a cut, two or more
buds can be placed without cutting, thus increasing the chance of success.

For these reasons the patch-bud is recommended for general use.
The patch-bud is the same in principle as the ring-bud, the only

19

difference between the two being that the ring-bud extends all the way
around the stock, while the pach-bud extends only part of the way. The
ring-bud is open to the objection of requiring the use of buds from scions
of approximately the same size as the stocks upon which they are to be

Figure 10.

(a) Stock with section of bark removed; (b) the section removed; (c) scion with
section of bark removed; (d) section of bark containing bud removed from scion; (e)
ﬁne bud in place on stock after having been wrapped, tied, and waxed; (f) new growth
tied to stub of stock left for that purpose.
placed, which is a very limiting factor in securing good buds. A patch-
bud can be taken from a scoin of any size and placed upon a stock without
reference to their comparative sizes. The matrix of the patch-bud also
presents shoulders for the bark of the scoin, which prevents its slipping
while being tied-in. This greatly facilitates and hastens the operaton of
budding.

For the above reasons, and in consideration of the fact that the patch-
bud answers in all other respects just as well, there can be no doubt of its
general superiority over the ring-bud.

A good general idea of patch-budding may be had from the accom-
panying cut, Figure 10.

Concerning the operation of patch-budding certain questions will
naturally present themselves:

(1) At what season can the work be done?
(2) What size and age of trees and branches can be successfully
budded?‘
20

(3) What should be the condition.of the stock at the time of
budding?

(4) At what point on the stock should the bud be placed, and
should it occupy the position of a native bud removed?

(5) What characterizes the best buds for use?

(6) How many buds should be used on one tree?

(7) What should be the size and age of bud-Wood, or scions?

(8) What should be the condition of the Wood at the time of
budding.

(9) How should bud-wood be kept pending use?

(10) How long should the removed section of bark be from top
to bottom, and also how wide across?

(11) What sort of string should be used for tying, and with what
force should it be drawn?

(12) How much wax should be used in sealing the cut.

(13) Should the bud be tied or waxed ﬁrst?

(14) How long before the string should be cut’?

(15) What after care is necessary to make the bud put out and
continue to grow?

(16) What is the best kind of knife for patch-budding?

(17) What precautions should be observed in transferring the
bud from scion to stock?

These questions wil-l be answered in consecutive order:

Season (1): This work can be done at any time after the bark
begins to slip in the spring until it sets in the fall, though the best time
is in early spring. After the ﬁrst of July buds can be taken from the
current season's growth, though such buds are not as good as either stor-
age buds or buds from one and two year old wood on the trees. Buds
put on after the ﬁrst of July should not be forced, but left dormant dur-
ing the season. This can be effected by leaving the top and all the
branches on the stock till winter, when the branches should be removed
and the top cut off just above the bud.

This rule of leaving the bud dormant after the ﬁrst of July will
admit of some slight variation to conform to seasonal conditions, princi-
pally rainfall. The reason for leaving the bud dormant arises from the
danger that a sprout from it might not attain sufficent size and maturity
to go through the Winter. But if rainfall has been abundant, and the
stock is in vigorous condition, an early July bud may be forced with rea-
sonable assurance that it will get in condition to withstand the cold. How-

ever, it should be added that nothing will be gained by forcing even under _

these conditions. The cutting back of the tree in mid-summer sufficiently
to cause the forcing out of the bud will weaken the tree to such an extent
as will more than counter-balance the temporary gain in the new sprout.
In short, the dormant bud will overtake the forced bud the following
season.

Size of Stock (2). On page 22 of a former bulletin, B-35, issued
by the Extension Service of the A. and M. College of Texas, the fol-
lowing statements occur:

21

W’

w‘ 

“mu-v-maw-av-ww-w-wy "viva- - _-_ v-—

“Patch-budding can be done on young trees and small limbs from
the size of a lead pencil up to three-fourths an inch, or more, in diameter.
The limiting factor in budding to large stocks is rather the condition and
thickness of the bark than the size of the limb or tree. Usually the bark
gets to be thick, rough and corky by the time the tree or limb has grown
to the diameter of an inch, and such bark is not suitable for budding.

Doubtless the operation could still be successfully performed if buds could p

be gotten in the same kind of bark; but long before bark has reached this
condition all buds have put out, a few of them making branches, but most
of them dropping off.

“A necessary condition in patch-budding is approximate equality
in thickness of bark of stock and scion; but this is so nearly always the
case Within the limit of one-fourth and three-fourths an inch as to need
little consideration within those boundaries.

“Generally speaking, a patch bud may be placed at any good smooth
spot where the bark is not too thick, though it is well to use buds from
the oldest sticks in the collection for the large stocks, and buds from the
young sticks for the small stocks. In other words try within a certain
measure, to match the bark of scion and stock.”

At the time this bulletin was written it was clearly recognized
that “The limiting factor in budding to large stocks is rather the condi-
tion and thickness of the bark than the size of the tree.” Since then it
has been discovered that large limbs and trees of considerable size can be
successfully budded by ﬁrst paring the bark of the stock thin, and placing
the bud in the middle of the pared place. In other words, thickness of
bark is under control by trimming. The only precaution necessary to
observe is not to pare so thin as to cut through the bast cells in the in-
ner portion of the white bark, through which the food supply comes.

The paring of the bark, and the wound made for placing the bud,
cause a considerable cambium deposit at the place; and this deposit is
much greater on a large stock than on a small one. It is, therefore, prob-
able that a higher percentage of success can be attained with rather large
stocks than with small ones; but, on account of the heavier cambium de-
posit, it is necessary to give closer attention to the budding strings, and
possibly to cut them sooner.

Whereas the limiting factor in budding large stocks used to be
thickness of bark, it is now the size of wound that will heal-over after
cutting-back to force out the buds. In this the same rule will apply as
in case of bark-grafts, two inches in diameter and under.

Condition of Stock (3): The very best time for patch-budding is
when the buds begin to swell early in the spring, just as soon as the bark
will slip. At this period the new bud has the advantage of being assisted
in healing by the use of the reserved food carried through the winter, soon
followed by the ﬂow from the new leaves.

Subsequent to this time, that is, after the leaves are developed and

22

the main process of healing depends upon
the newly prepared plant food, the stock
must be in the most active condition.

Elsewhere is the statement that patch-
budding can be done from the opening of
spring till the beginning of fall. Any lim-
itation upon this statement will be by
reason of condition of stock and not by time
of year. It would be useless to place buds
on a tree when there was no “sap” to feed
them. Cut a small section of bark from the
tree to be budded. If the bark turns loose
readily, and moisture is plentiful under it,
the tree is in condition to be budded. If
the bark does not slip readily, and moisture
is scant or altogether wanting, a bud surely
would die.

‘VTTITWI UT"

 

Avoid budding during long summer
f "Nr , - '  drouths and for some days thereafter, un-
_-llill‘  less the stocks be strong, vigerous sprouts
   from the roots of old trees that have been
 l ‘it!  l’ __,..-—- ' cut down. Such sprouts have such an

 
éirmw muvuluusr Hill.‘
H z

abundant root system to nourish them that
I.‘ . . 1|, they are generally in good condition long
    after young trees, depending upon their own
i‘ / \  _  roots, are unﬁt for budding.

i i Position of Bud (4): The proper po-
sition of the bud on the stock depends upon
the size, development and shape of the tree
to be budded.

In the growing of nursery stock for
use in Texas, the bud should be placed close
to the ground. Much difficulty has been ex-
perienced in this state in getting nursery
trees to grow after transplanting. The
Writer has seen acres of trees dying from
sun-scald. The bodies of these trees, on the
south and west sides, just at the surface of
the ground, where they receive both the di-

Figure 11. A patch-bud in a trmmed spot on
a pecan tree about one and one-half inches in di-
ameter. Particular attention should be paid to the
thickness of the bark of the stock along the sides
of the bud-bark. If the bark of the stock be thicker
there than is the bark of the bud segment, the
strings cannot press the bud segment down as it
should be.

Note the strings just above and below the bud
segment. These strings are to prevent any lifting-
up of the bark around the bud segment in the drying out process after trimming. It is
important to wax over all this pared portion.

rect and reﬂected heat of the sun, presented the same appearance as though
a ﬁre had burned them. To obviate this condition nursery trees should be
severly cut back at the time of transplanting, and earth should be mound-
ed-up nearly to the top of the stub. Now this mounding above the budded
portion would be rendered impractical by budding too high.

In case of budding to branches, the bud should be placed near the
body of the tree. A bud near the end of a limb will grow another limb,
and this will make the combined length too great.

By referring to Figure 10, it will be observed that the section of
bark (b) from the stock (a) contains no bud.‘ This is as it should be, and
indicates that the bark was removed from an internode, that is, between
bud and bud. The Wood in this position is smooth and even, While there
is likely to occur a gnarl and slight projection under a bud, which might
injure the bud of the scion when forcibly pressed against it in tying. On
nice round young wood near the body of the tree these gnarls do not oc-
cur, and it might be better in such cases to place the bud at a node, as
there is always a greater deposit of reserve plant food under a bud than
elsewhere; but since an internode always presents a smooth surface, it
is thought best to recommend it for general practice.

The shape of the limb or sprout to be budded has much to do with
the correct placing of the bud. A straight smooth round place should
be chosen. A bud should never be placed in a curve of the stock, unless the
bud be taken from an exactly corresponding curve in the bud stick. Even
this is risky, as the eye is not always able to judge accurately, and the
effort may result in splitting the bark in which the bud is imbedded, and
lead to its death.

It is better to place buds on tops of limbs rather than on the under
side, in order to secure upright growth.

Good Buds (5): The best buds are those on the smooth round wood,
near the beginning of a year’s growth. Buds from near the tip of a limb
should be rejected. They usually sit up on a ridge, which causes a hollow
under the bud when it is removed. This hollow cannot be pressed down
against the Wood of the stock, and before it can be ﬁlled by new tissue
the bud will have died.

Good buds can be gotten from two and even three years old wood.
On thrifty growing sprouts there are sometimes three and even as many
as four buds at a node. The primary one of these buds puts out the
ﬁrst year and drops off. The secondary bud the second year, and so on.
This character of bud-wood is very desirable for use on well matured
stocks, even when cut from nearby trees and used in summer. However,
care should be exercised to see that the buds are alive, as some of them
do not fall off for a long time after dying. If they are alive they will
be ﬂexible, and will give to pressure of the thumb nail. If they are dead
they will be rigid, and will break oﬁ’ when pressure is applied.

24

Number of Buds (6): The
number of buds to use on a partic-
ular tree is largely a matter to be
decided by the judgment of the oper-
  ator, with the tree before him. How-
 ever, every beginner Wants to use
é a  too many buds. One bud is enough
1 for any small tree, and is usually
enough for any tree up to two
inches in diameter, if judiciously
placed.

The beginner would be dis-

posed to bud ﬁve or six branches of

*' ' this tree, whereas it is necessary to
~81 bud only one, (a), near the body of
 the tree, and to force out the bud
‘i?’ by cutting oﬂ’ (a) beyond the bud
and also removing part of the top

of the tree. The following winter

the tree should be sawed off just

H‘, above the branch (a) at (d), and
  all the growth forced into the new
if part. The wound will soon heal
i: over, and at the end of two or three

, from the single bud would equal the
 combined weight of that grown
 from six buds, had so many been
used. Moreover, much time will
have been saved in budding and
 much trouble in looking after the
i, buds.

This illustration will suggest
some idea of how to take advantage
of the various forms, and will tend

l‘ years the weight of wood grown
l
V

i- toward the adoption of the Sound
"  motto, “Let the Tree do the Work.”
Lji- However, it is not intended to
 convey the idea that only one bud
 should be used per tree under any

and all circumstances. In case of

l‘.
,nn§55’.4-.'Ll'. '- _

Figure 12—This Figure represents a pecan tree two inches in diameter at the
ground with the limb (a) four feet above the ground. If several of the limbs were
budkded, the head of the tree would be formed too 10w to admit cultivation under it.
By budding the limb (a) only, the head of the 0perator—-that is, the new growth re-
sulting from the bud at (a) can, by pruning, be made to head at any desired height.

If the limb (a) were ﬁve or six feet above the ground, both it and the limb (b)

shoud be budded, and the head of the tree thus formed.

25

, i larger trees several buds can sometimes be used to

t‘ l» I;  advantage—only do not use too many.
\   Bud Wood, Size and Age (7)= Strictly speak-
; h 4;

r/ ing neither size nor age is a limiting factor in the
f use of bud-wood. Each of these items serves only
' as an index to condition. Wood can be used for
 buds as long as live buds remain on it, which is
a“ usually two or three years. During this time it
 rarely attains any considerable size.

 f» Commercial bud-wood is nearly always of the
\ previous season’s growth, and ranges from the size
 of a lead pencil to that of a small cigar.

Condition, Ready for Use (8): In patch-
‘f. budding it is always more satisfactory to use buds
i freshly cut from the trees, when it is possible to do
,; 49 so. This practice is, however, rather extravagant
_a_________v_{i‘ in point of the amount of bud-wood required, as a
' I big proportion of all buds put out early in the spring,
I if left on the trees, and are lost to use for budding.
ii; For this reason, it has been generally found nec-
 essary to store a sufficient supply to last through
A the ﬁrst month or so of the budding season.

i’ When using stored wood by the patch-bud
“i  method the buds should be used just as soon as the
,1 bark on the bud-sticks will slip—-the sooner there-
 after the better. When put on at this stage consid-
I i erable union has time to ensue while the bud is de-
d}, veloping from its own food supply; if the bud is al-
i} ready developed at the putting on, it is likely to die
:' i’ before union can be effected and food supply estab-
lished. A high percentage of success can not be ac-

. complished with badly swollen or bursting buds. No
i; doubt it would be better to perform the operation
< i with dormant buds if it were possible.

!  If the buds on the stick will not slip when de-
i"  sired for use, they can be brought into condition by
i’! burying them a day of two in a shallow trench in a
 sunny spot of ground. If the ground is dry, water

 

 __ Figure 13—This ﬁgure represents a pecan tree two
 -“ - ~ ‘ ' a inches in diameter at the ground, and ten feet high. It grew
___,_,...."‘ ' in a thicket in competition with other trees, reached up for
light and air, and the limbs are too high to bud.
Formerly it would have been sawed off six feet above the ground and a bark
graft inserted.
It is now recommended to place three patch buds at a, b, and c, ﬁrst paring the bark.
The bud at a, is on the west side, about ﬁve feet six inches above the ground; the one
at b is on the south side about six inches above a; the one at c, is on the north side
about six inches above b.
After the buds have formed unions with the stock, the top of the tree should be
cut off and the buds forced out in accordance with directions given under patch-budding.

 

 

the trench with warm water. Do not bury all buds at one time, but only a
limited number to be used as needed.

(Upon several occasions the Pecan Specialist of the Extension Ser-
vice was without bud-sticks from which the bark would slip, and was
forced to use almost perfectly dormant wood in giving demonstrations in
patch-budding. He gave the demonstrations nevertheless, explaining that
the buds would probably die, as he had to literally whittle them from the
stick. He was later surprised to ﬁnd them living and growing. This
emphasizes the importance of using buds just as soon as they can be got-
ten to part from the stick.

These remarks apply, of course, only to early spring budding, as
buds cut from active trees always slip readily).

Keeping Bud Wood (9): Wood for early patch-budding can be kept
in the same manner as that kept for bark-grafting, and reference is made
to that article for information.

For all except early work, bud-wood should be cut, frlsh, from the
tree.

Length and Width of Bark (10): The section of bark taken from
the scion, in which the bud is imbedded, should be about an. inch long and
about half-inch wide. A somewhat wider bark may be used on a large
stock. The exact length and width are not material.

String (11): Some operators prefer raffia for tying-in buds, but
ordinary cotton wrapping twine, not too large, seems to answer just as
well, and possesses the advantage of convenience. A ball of it_can be

.carried in the pocket, and the desired length pulled out and cut off each

time.

In tying-in use only sufficient force to make sure that the bark seg-
ment of the scion is brought into intimate contact with the wood of the
stock, as there can be no doubt that many buds are killed by the cutting-
in of the binding strings. This is not a necessary result, if attention be
given to the strings, but it is too often the result. One pecan tree may
grow more rapidly than another, and the string on it would need cutting
sooner. Failure to cut the string at the proper time might, and prob-
ably would, strangle the bud. Observation of so many failures from this
cause suggested the trial of some substitute for the customary string.
Ten buds that were put on early in October, 1919, were held in place by
very small rubber bands, and every one of them lived and quickly formed
a good union. It was not found necessary to tie the ends of the bands
together. The lower end was caught and held by the ﬁrst fold of the
band around the stock, and the upper end was caught in a cut in the
bark. Neither was it found necessary to cut the bands at all as the bud-
ding wax caused them to decay and break before they did any harm—
if indeed they would have ever done any.

Ten other buds, put on at the same time, were held in place by
very narrow strips of cloth. The strips, were put on after the same man-

27

ner as the rubber bands, only the upper ends were stuck down with a lit-
tle wax, and the whole of the front surfaces were coated lightly with wax
to make them waterproof. Every one of these buds lived, though they do
not appear so plump and vigorous as those put on with rubber bands.

While these experiments are too limited to Warrant the announce-
ment of their adoption, their success is sufficient to foster the hope that a
difficult place in budding has been gotten over by their means.

Wax, How Much (12): In sealing the cut made in budding, only
a thin glaze of wax is necessay, just enough to make sure the cut is seal-
ed. There is neither use nor excuse for piles and daubs of it, though if
some Wax get on the bud it will do no harm.

Order of Tying and Waxing (13): Patch-buds should ﬁrst be tied-
in and then waxed. It would be impractical to reverse the order. The
buds would not stay in place while the waxing was being done. The small
binding strings can be easily waxed over.

Cutting the String (14): The time between the operation of bud-
ding and the cutting of the string binding the bud varies with the rapidity
of development and growth of the stock. It ranges from two to three
weeks. In case of a very active stock, union will probably be effected and
the string be cutting into the bark in two weeks, while with a less active
stock longer time will be necessary. However, a bud that has not set in
three weeks will never do so.

When the strings are to be cut let it be done by passing a sharp
knife across them on the side of the stock opposite the bud. Do not at-
tempt to remove the pieces of the string as that may cause openings in
the wax.

After-Care of the Bud (15): The attention necessary to force a
bud out, and particularly to keep it growing after it is out, varies to such
an extent with the condition of the bud and stock at the time of budding
as to require some discussion.

Reference is made to the introductory remarks concerning the man-
ner of growth of trees, as those remarks have a direct bearing on this
subject. Let it be noted that the leaves are the food factories of a tree,
where elaborated plant foods are manufactured to be distrbuted through-
out its system.

Pecan bark will slip before the buds have swollen to any appreciable

extent, and it is evident that, in case where a bud is put on just as soon
as the bark of both stock and scion will slip, the healing will take place

partially through the food reserve, as there are no leaves yet, and possibly-

will not be for another week or two. Manifestely, the portion of the
stock above the bud would, under these circumstances, play a less impor-
tant part than it would had the operation been performed later in the
season. However, the top will, even in this case, do no harm for some
two or three weeks.

28

As the leaf system develops and the circulation increases, the heal-
ing will depend to a greater and greater extent upon the portion of the
tree above the bud.

It seems to be common practice in budding to cut back the stock
to a foot above the bud at the time of budding, and to also rub off all
buds on that portion of the stock. It would be better, especially in cases
where the leaves are already developed at the time of budding, to leave
the entire top to assist in healing the wound occasioned by the budding.

When union has fairly started, about three weeks after the date of
budding, the top should be cut to the desired length and the native buds
rubbed off above the inserted bud in order to force it out. This pruning
can be done at the time of cutting the strings, the union of bud and stock
having been accomplished.

Why has not a tree as many limbs as it has produced buds? Such
would be the case if each bud developed into a limb; but hundreds of buds
put out in slender form, turn yellow and drop off, only one here and there
developing into a limb where needed.

Now this dropping-off is exactly what is likely to happen to the
ﬁne bud if the native ones about it, and particularly above it, are not de-
stroyed—and it is the more likely to occure in that the native buds will in
all probability get the start of it. .

The object of leaving a foot of the stock above the bud is to use
it as a support to which the new growth may be bound in the event it
shows a disposition to grow horizontally. (See Figure 10, f).

All limbs below the bud and its resulting sprout should not be re-
moved at one time, but by degrees as the new growth increases its leaves,
and is thereby enabled to perform the full functions of a top. If there
are many limbs below the bud, cut half of them when the top is cut, and
remove the others at two or three cuttings between that time and the
middle of June.

When not budded before the middle of July neither the top nor the
branches of a stock should be cut till the following winter. As soon as
the bud is well set, cut the string and let both scion and stock alone till
time for winter pruning.

In case of patch-budding limbs of large trees instead of bark-graft-
ing them, cutting back for the purpose of forcing out the buds should
be done according to directions just given; but, in addition, care should
be taken to cut out enough above the buds to give air and sunlight to the
new growth.

Budding Knife (16): The best kind of knife for patch-budding is
shown in Figure 14. The particular knife was made by the writer. Two
cheap pocket knives with iron handles were purchased at a hardware store.
The merchant drilled holes in the handles at the time of the purchase,
ﬁrst placing the knives together and arranging the blades parallel. The

9.9

knives werethen rivited to a block of wood, so the blades would stand
exactly parallel and be an inch apart.

 

(Figure 14—Patch-Budding Knife).

Similar knives have been made by using ordinary kitchen knives
and shoe knives with Wooden handles. The handles can be easily trim-
med ﬂat and rivited to the block. The use of two set blades is that of a
measure to effect a close ﬁt of the bark of scion and stock at top and bot-
tom—the sides are not so important. It will be recalled that the circu-
lation of the prepared foods of a tree is from the leaves downward, prin-
cipally, and this explains the necessity of an exact ﬁt at top and bottom.
It is really better to do the cutting with a single sharp blade, by drawing
it across the bark rather than by direct pressure without sliding. Cutting
with a dull knife, especially without sliding, tends to close the cells through
which the elaborated foods pass.

In the absence of a double-bladed knife patch-budding can be done
with some other measure like a lock staple with the two ends ﬁled thin.

Transferring Buds (17): In the operation of patch-budding the bark
of the stock should be cut ﬁrst. The corners should be carefully cut so
the section of bark will not hang when being removed. Loosen the sec-
tion to make sure it is clear, but push it back in place quickly to protect
the cells under it from exposure while the section is being cut from the
scion in like manner. When the latter section has been cut and thor-
oughly loosened, ﬂip out the section from the stock and make the transfer
of the other quickly. It is well to have the string ready, as otherwise
the bud may fall out while the string is being prepared.

RECIPE FOR BUDDING AND GRAFTING WAX.
Rosin two parts, beeswax one part. _
Melt together and set off to cool, stirring occasionally.

Just before the mixture is cool enough to solidify, which can be
told by its beginning to stick to the sides and bottom of the vessel, pour
in alcohol slowly, stirring all the while. , Continue to add alcohol till the
whole mass has turned a golden yellow color, and has reached the con-
sistency of soft mush. The quantity of alcohol necessary is about two-
thirds the volume of the other combined materials.

Grain alcohol is preferable, wood alcohol will do, but denatured alco-
hol will not do.

30

PECAN SCIONS ON HICKORY STOCKS.

The methods of budding and grafting pecan scions to pecan stock,
herein decribed, will apply to budding and grafting pecan scions to hickory
stocks and also to English walnut scions to black Walnut stocks, though
the latter tree winter-kills so badly in Texas as to "render the work useless.

The question is often asked, “Will it pay to use the hickory as a
stock for the pecan?”

The pecan is a thrifty grower, and the writer is of the opinion that
it will not pay to use pecan scions on dwarf hickories—the top will out-
grow the stock—but there is little doubt that the pecan will do well on the
larger and more thrifty-growling varieties of hickory.

31