PREVENT AND REMOVE Z \ \ \ l | 1 I I I MILDEW / l / home methods / . ‘~_~,-J-_-'-_.,V T‘ ‘\ l; X I _ ~ ‘hi; >1 J‘ ‘ v _ ‘HQA "AND GARDEN BULLETIN N0.68 U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE V \'j CONTENTS To prevent mildew: Page Keep things clean _________________________________ __ 2 Get rid of dampness: By removing the cause _________________________ __ 2 By providing adequate ventilation _______________ __ 3 By drying the air _____________________________ __ 3 Get rid of musty odors _____________________________ __ 5 Give some articles and surfaces special care: Clothing and household fabrics _________________ __ 6 Leather goods ________________________________ __ 8 Wood _____________________________ __' ________ __ 9 Paper and books ______________________________ __ 1O To remove mildew: Clothing and household fabrics _____________________ __ 11 Upholstered articles, mattresses, rugs ________________ __ 12 Leather goods ____________________________________ __ 13 Wood ___________________________________________ __ l3 Paper and books __________________________________ __ 14 Institute of Home Economics Agricultural Research Service This bulletin supersedes Leaflet 322, "Preventing and Removing Mildew: Home Methods.” Washington, D.(I_ a Issued June 1960 For sale by the Fulperinlenrlenl of Documents. US. (Sow ernmclnl Printing ("time W élshinglun 25, D.C. - Price l0 rents HOW TO PREVENT AND REMOVE IVIILDEW home methods By Margaret S. Furry, Textile Chemist Molds that cause mildew grow on anything from which they can get enough food. In homes they develop most often on cotton, linen, rayon, silk, wool, leather, wood, and paper. Many manmade fibers are resistant to mildew. Molds are simple plants belonging to the group known as fungi. Though always present in the air, molds that cause mildew need mois- ture and certain temperatures in order to grow. They commonly de- velop in muggy summer weather, especially in houses that are closed. Molds that cause mildew flourish wherever it is damp, warm, poorly aired, poorly lighted—in cellars, in crawl spaces of houses without basements, in clothing closets, on draperies and rugs in basement recrea- tion rooms, on shower curtains, on damp clothes rolled up for ironing. These molds are also likely to grow in a newly built house because of moisture in the building materials. As the molds grow they cause considerable damage. They often leave a musty odor. They discolor fabrics and sometimes eat into them so severely that the fabrics rot and fall to pieces. They decay wood and discolor leather and paper. The most common mildew organisms do not cause disease. 540560°»6O I g TO PREVENT Mumsw Keep Things Clean Keep closets, dresser drawers, base- ments, any place where mildew is likely to grow, as clean as possible. Soil on Get Rid of By removing the cause Try t0 control the cause of dampness. Otherwise, with high moisture, mold spores—always present in the air—— settle on articles and have ideal condi- tions for growth. Cooking, laundering, and bathing without adequate ventilation may add 2 or more gallons of water to the air in a house within 1 day. If possible, have your automatic clothes dryer vented to the outdoors. Dampness in a basement often is caused by conden- sation of moisture; warm, moist air coming in condenses on cooler surfaces. Damaging moisture may indicate are needed. that repairs Replace Make cracked or defective mortar. 2 articles can supply sulficient food for mildew to start growing when moisture and temperature are right. Greasy films, such as those that form on kitch- en walls, also contain many nutrients for mildew organisms. Clean clothing is less likely to mildew than soiled clothing. Because most manmade fibers, such as acetate, Acri- lan, Dacron, Dynel, nylon, and Orlon, are resistant to mildew, clean fabrics of these fibers will not support mold growth. But soil even on these fabrics may supply food to start mildew. Thorough cleaning of all soiled fabrics, regardless of the kind of fiber in them, may help prevent them from mildewing. Dampness certain that outside drainage is ade- quate. Some basements are continu- ally wet from water leaking through crevices in the wall. For waterproofing concrete and other masonry walls above ground, apply two coats of cement water paint, tinted with Water )I‘()Ofit‘t°' treatments to seal ab- l n mineral coloring, if desired. sorbent brick and other outside sur- faces may be needed. ln crawl spaces under houses, spread a layer of moisture-barrier material over the soil under the building. Heavy roofing paper or polyethylene plastic film can be used. This barrier plus good ventilation will keep the crawl space dry and prevent mustiness. By providing adequate ventilation Ventilate the house when outside air is drier than that inside. As the air comes in, it takes moisture from the damp interior walls and furnishings. Then the moisture vapor is carried out- doors. Since cool air holds less mois- ture than warm air, take advantage of cool nights to freshen the air in the entire house. Run an electric fan in places that cannot be exposed to outdoor breezes. Special-purpose fans, such as adjust- able window fans, can be used to help remove moisture and keep the house well ventilated. Poorly ventilated closets get damp and musty during continued wet weather, and articles stored in them are likely to mildew. Hang clothing loosely so that air can circulate around it. Keep suitcases, shoes, and other articles that are highly vulnerable t0 mildew on shelves, preferably perforated ones. at the top of the closet. Dry all clotl1- ing wet by rain or perspiration thor- oughly before putting it in the closet. Leave closet doors and dresser draw- ers open occasionally to keep moisture from gathering and to stir up the en- closed air. Take special care to venti- late linen closets in bathrooms and to circulate air behind and under beds. By drying the air Heat. If necessary, get rid of the dampness by heating the house for a short time with a stove. furnace. or an electric heater. Then open doors and windows to let out the warnred air that has taken up the extra moisture; use an electric fan to force it out quickly. To dry the air in closets and other small areas, burn a small electric light in them continuously. The heat from the lamp is enough to prevent mildew if the space is not too large. Or place an electric heater on the closet floor. Heat at the bottom of the closet in- creases air movement and gives better drying efficiency. Keep the closet door shut to conserve the heated air. In using electric lamps and heaters, be sure to observe precautions against fire. Mechanical dehumidifiers. Me- chanical dehumidifiers, sometimes called "basement dryers," are useful wherever condensation of moisture causes damage. This piece of equip- ment removes moisture from the air by 3 drawing in the damp air, then condens- ing the moisture on refrigerated coils. The water can then be drained off. A humidistat can be attached to the dryer t0 control the humidity in a room. When using a dehumidifier, keep win- dows and doors closed. Chemicals that absorb mois- ture.—Silica gel, activated alumina, or calcium chloride may be used to absorb moisture from the air. They are sold in department stores and drugstores and by building-supply dealers, some- times under various trade names. Silica gel and activated alumina are not harmful to fabrics. The porous granules remain dry feeling even when saturated—they hold half their weight of water. To use, hang cloth bags of the chemical in clothing closets. 0r, place an open container of it in the closet—on a shelf preferably, or on the floor. Keep closet doors closed so that moisture from outside air will not get in. You may scatter the dry granules through layers of clothing and other articles that are to be stored in tightly closed chests or trunks. Both silica gel and alumina can be used over and over, if dried between times. To dry, simply place moist granules in a vented oven at 300° F. for several hours. Then put in an airtight box and cool before re-using. Silica gel specially treated xvith a color indi- cator is pink when full of moisture, blue when dry. Calcium chloride also absorbs mois- It is available both in small white granules of the chemical, ture from the air. and in specially prepared products that employ calcium chloride soaked on a porous claylike material. Calcium chloride-on-clay products do not drip when saturated; they can be regenerated by driving off the ab- sorbed moisture in an oven. To use one of these products, hang cloth bags that contain it in closets, basements, pantries, or wherever dampness occurs. Granular calcium chloride holds twice its weight of water. But, as it absorbs moisture it liquefies. Do not let this chemical come in contact with clothing or household textiles; it can make holes in them. To use granular calcium chloride, put it on a nonrusting screen supported in an enameledware container. Then place the open container in the closet and keep the door shut. When granu- lar calcium chloride becomes liquid replace it with fresh chemical. CCALCIUM CHLORIDE Get Rid of Musty Odors Musty odors, which indicate mold growth, are sometimes noticeable in such places as basements and shower stalls. Take special precautions to get rid of musty odors as soon as pos- sible; thus, you will prevent further, really objectionable and damaging mold growth. Usually musty odors disappear if the area is well heated and dried. If the odors remain, additional treatments (described in the following paragraphs) may be necessary. In cellars with dirt floors, use chlo- rinated lime (commonly called chloride of lime or bleaching powder) to re- move musty odors. Sprinkle this chem- ical over the floor, let it stay until all mustiness disappears, then sweep it up. On cement floors and on tiled walls and floors in bathrooms. get rid of mustiness by scrubbing with a dilute solution of sodium hypochlorite or other chlorine bleach grocery stores. Use 1/3 to 1 cup of liquid household bleach to a gallon of water. Rinse with clear water and wipe as dry as possible. Keep windows available in open until walls and floors are thor- oughly dry. Precaution : Work quickly and carefully on plastic and asphalt tile to avoid spotting the surface. Low-pressure sprays (in aerosol containers) are helpful in removing mustiness in closed rooms and small areas, provided they contain a fungi- toxic (mildew-inhibiting) chemical to prevent the growth of the odorous molds causing the trouble. Read the label on the can for ingredients. Most sprays without a mildew inhibitor are less effective for removing the un- pleasant musty odor because they rely entirely on the masking power of a perfume or on the deodorizing action of special chemicals. When using low-pressure sprays keep doors and windows closed. Precautiorz: Do not inhale the mist and do not spray near a flame. Follow all directions and precautions given on the can. Give Some Articles and Surfaces Special Care Clothing cmcl household fabrics Keep fabrics dry. Never let cloth- ing or other fabric articles lie around damp 0r wet. Dry soiled clothes before putting them into the hamper. Wash out dishcloths and hang them to dry. Spread out washcloths and damp towels. Stretch out wet shower cur- tains. It is the wet curtain left bunched together or sticking to the wall or tub that is most likely to mildew. Wash soiled garments and household fabrics in plenty of hot sudsy water; rinse well and dry thoroughly and quickly. Fabrics dried slowly may get sour and musty smelling—-a sign of mold growth. When washing musty white cotton materials, add dilute chlo- rine bleach as directed on the con- tainer. (Never use chlorine bleach on silk or wool. Some colored fabrics and some fabrics treated with special fin- ishes may also be affected by chlorine.) Sprinkle for ironing only as many articles as can be ironed in a day; shake out and dry those not ironed. To help keep moisture out of cloth- ing and household fabrics and thus make them less susceptible to mold growth, treat them with wax-emulsion or silicone water-repellent sprays. llse on draperies, slipcovers, mattresses, golf bags, overshoes, and jackets and other outer garments. More satisfac- tory in protecting such articles against mold growth are the mildew-resistant finishes described in the following paragraphs. Protect with mildew-resistant finish. Make sure that such cotton articles as shower curtains, awnings, tents, and sails have been treated with fungicides (chemicals to make them resistant to mildew) before using them. Many such articles are treated before they are placed on the market. If not, you can apply a mildew-resistant finish to these articles yourself with one of the fungicide products described below. These products are available at drug- stores. hardware stores, and boat-sup- ply houses. Two copper naphthenate and copper-8-quinolino- late—-are especially recommended to treatments—copper give durable protection to canvas beach chairs, awnings, sails, and other heavy fabrics that are used outdoors. Apply them by dip, spray, or brush methods as directed on the package. They have a distinctive odor and they tint the fabric green and may stiffen it. Another copper treatment—-copper cupferron—gives good protection with only slight odor and an off-white color. Uther fungicides, such as zinc naph- thenate, quaternary ammonium naph- thenate, dichlorophenol, and salicyl- anilide, may be less durable to weath- ering, but they are odorless and color- less and, therefore, more satisfactory for shower curtains, draperies, blank- ets, and seat covers. Fungicide products that can be sprayed on fabrics to give them mildew protection are available in low-pressure aerosol containers (p. 5). Some of these fungicide sprays contain a wax or a silicone resin that imparts water repellency to the sprayed fabric, in addition to mildew resistance. Some contain an insecticide that makes the sprayed fabric resistant to moths. In order to have sufficient chemical on the fabric for mildew protection, wet the surface of the fabric thoroughly with the spray. Unless the sprayed fabrics are kept in a closed container, they should be examined frequently and resprayed. Precaution: Use these fungicide products on clothing only if such use is recommended on the label; some of them irritate the weareris skin. Avoid inhaling vapors. Do not spray on plastic or asphalt tile. Follow all directions and precautions given on the can. Here is a mildew-resistant treatment simple to apply and less expensive than those described above. lt uses soap and copper sulfate and, although it colors the fabric light blue green, is suitable for many cotton articles. First dip the article in hot soapsuds made of soft or softened water and good neutral soap (not a synthetic detergent). Soak the article a few minutes to be sure it is wet through. Then remove it, and, without rinsing, SOAPSUDS COPPER SULFATE put at once into a hot solution of copper sulfate (11/3 ounces copper sulfate to a gallon of water). Stir and turn the fabric for about 15 minutes in this bath. Then wring and hang to dry. Be sure to have plenty of soap in the cloth because it is the combination of the soap and the copper sulfate that makes the treatment successful. Precaution: Copper sulfate is poi- sonous; if regular kitchen pans and utensils are used to hold the copper sulfate solution, wash them thoroughly afterwards. Clean before storing. If clothing or household textiles are not treated with a mildew-resistant finish, be sure to wash or dryclean them before storing, as soiled articles are more likely to mildew than clean ones. And, unless you know that your laundry starch contains an inhibitor, do not leave starch in fabrics to be stored; molds feed on starch finishes. From time to time on warm, dry days, sun and air articles stored in closets. lt pays to inspect occasionally 7 cotton, rayon, leather, and woolen clothing put away in garment bags. Unless such materials are stored with a mildew inhibitor (see below) they may mildew; a closed bag, dampness, and hot summer weather make ideal growing conditions for molds. Store with mildew inhibitor. Certain volatile chemicals, the vapors of which inhibit mold growth, may be used to protect fabrics during storage. Qne such chemical, paradichloroben- zene, effectively controls mildew on clothing and other apparel when used in packages, trunks. or garment bags kept as nearly airtight as possible. This chemical, which is widely recom- mended for moth control, is available in grocery and drug stores under vari- ous trade names. Scatter paradichlorobenzene crystals through the folds of garments to be packed in boxes, or hang bags of crys- tals at the top of garment bags so the heavy vapors settle on the materials being protected. Use about 1 pound of the crystals for 100 cubic feet of air space, proportionately less for smaller spaces. As the vapors leak out, mildew protection disappears and the chemical must be replenished. P r e c a u t i0 n: Paradichlorobenzene Therefore, remove plastic buttons and ornaments damages some plastics. from garments and use wooden or metal instead of plastic clothes hangers. Paraformaldehyde is another volatile chemical that has mildew-inhibiting properties. It is sold in powder form at drugstores. Sometimes various sized bags of the chemical are avail- able. Use paraformaldehyde to pro- 8 tect clothing and bedding .(2 ounces of the chemical for 100 cubic feet of space). Place bags of the chemical where the vapors can circulate and reach all surfaces of the stored articles. Precautiorz: Paraformaldehyde is poisonous. Avoid inhaling the fumes. Keep it away from children. Low-pressure sprays containing mil- dew-inhibiting chemicals also will help control molds and mildew growth in a closed area. To be effective, the spray mustwet the interior surfaces of the closet or storage container. Thor- oughly spray into cracks and crevices. Respray as frequently as necessary. Precaution: Do not inhale the mist from the spray and do not use spray near flame. For additional precautions and directions for spraying fabrics, see page 7. Leather goods To protect leather against mildew, sponge with a l-percent solution of dichlorophene in denatured or rubbing alcohol. Gr use other chemicals— hexachlorophene, salicylanilide, thy- mol, and paranitrophenol—in the same way (1-percent solution in alcohol). Your druggist can get these chemicals and make the solutions for you. Shoe and luggage stores may have the solu- tions packaged especially for leather goods Before sponging the article, test the solution on a small area where it will not show to see if it will change the color of the leather. Do not use para- nitrophenol on white or light-colored leather. Treat both the inside and the outside of shoes; repeat as often as needed. Another way to protect leather goods is to apply a good wax dressing. In selecting the one to use, read the labels on the packages. Some shoe dressings on the market contain both a fungicide (hexachlorophene or paranitrophenol) to prevent mold growth and wax or a silicone resin to protect against per- spiration and wet weather. A thin coat of floor wax applied to shoes—to both PARADICHLOROBENZENE the uppers and the soles—keeps mois- ture out and so helps to prevent mildew. During warm, humid weather, pro- tect stored shoes, ackets, luggage, and other leather articles with paradichloro- benzene or paraformaldehyde (p. 8); wrap the articles in packages and’ seal them. If luggage has plastic fittings and hangers, do not use paradichloro- benzene. Or use a low-pressure spray contain- ing a fungicide to prevent mildew dam- age during storage (pp. 5, 7). Spray shoes and other leather articles thor- oughly to wet the surface. Then as soon as they are dry, wrap them or place them in airtight containers. Precaution: Do not inhale the mist from the spray and do not use spray near flame. Follow all precautions given on the can. Wood Unpainted.—ln damp, warm, poorly ventilated areas, surface mold often develops on wooden parts of buildings; sometimes timbers are se- verely rotted. New, unseasoned lumber is especially susceptible to mildew be- cause it is full of moisture. Lumber and millwork should be treated with a wood preservative to provide protection against mildew. lf this has not been done at the manu- facturing plant, you may apply such a preservative yourself. Use copper or zinc naphthenate, pentachlorophenol, certain phenyl mercury compounds, or coal tar creosote. These wood preservatives are avail- able from hardware and paint stores, lumberyards, and millwork suppliers. 9 In selecting the preservative for the job, consider what the wood will be used for and the properties of the pre- servative-—its color, odor, and whether it will bleed through paint or leach out on exposure to weathering. I Painted. Indoor wood surfaces covered with enamel or oil-resin paint rarely mildew unless conditions are very favorable to mold growth. Softer paints on outdoor surfaces mildew more readily. Molds feed on the oil and minerals in the paint and cause a dirty-looking discoloration. They may penetrate the paint film deeply, even to the underlying wood. Mildew-resistant paints in all colors for outdoor wood surfaces are avail- able at paint and hardware stores. The manufacturer has suitably formulated his products with fungicides, such as chlorinated phenols, phenyl mercurials, zinc compounds, or copper compounds, to help combat mildew attack. Be- cause the chemical used may be poison- ous, carefully observe all precautions indicated on the can. Some paint stores sell fungicide additives, which can be mixed with paint. Adding zinc oxide or spar varnish to oil paint makes it less susceptible to mildew, because it makes the paint dry to a hard film. These materials tend to make the paint brittle. however; on aging it may peel. Paper and books In damp summer weather keep papers and books as dry as possible to 1O ‘ruuoucios LACQUERZIO help control mold growth. Burn a small electric light continuously in the bookcase, with doors closed as tightly as possible. Or use a chemical de- humidifier, such as silica gel or cal- cium chloride (see p. 4), in a closed space. Also effective in preventing mildew are the volatile mildew inhibitors, para- dichlorobenzene and paraformaldehyde (p. 8). Hang a bag containing one of these in the closed bookcase. Or dust books and papers with paraform- aldehyde, then wrap them in tight packages. Use this chemical sparing- ly; it is poisonous and may be very irritating to some persons. Or you may use low-pressure sprays containing a fungicide (pp. 5, 7) to protect paper products against mildew. Unless they are kept in a closed con- tainer respray them frequently. To prevent mildew on book covers, apply a clear shellac or thin varnish to which 2 to 3 percent of salicylanilide or dichlorophene has been added. First try the shellac on a small section of the cover, to see if it will change the color. TO REMOVE MILDEW Clothing cmcl Household Fabrics Remove mildew spots as soon as they are discovered. Don't give the mold growth a chance to weaken or rot the material. Brush off any surface growth outdoors to prevent scattering the mil- dew spores in the house. Sun and air fabrics thoroughly. If any mildew spots remain, treat washable articles as described below. Dryclean nonwash- able articles. Wash mildew-stained articles at once with soap and water. Rinse well and dry in the sun. If any stain remains, bleach with lemon juice and salt, so- dium perborate bleach (available at grocery stores), or a dilute solution of sodium hypochlorite or other house- hold chlorine bleach. Lemon juice and salt. Moisten stain with a mixture of lemon juice and Spread in the sun to bleach. Use this treatment with care on colored fabrics. Perborate bleach.—-\lix perborate bleach and water—l table- salt. Rinse thoroughly and dry. sodium spoon. bleach to each pint of water. Use hot water if the fabric will stand it; otherwise, use lukewarm water. Sponge stain with solution or soak stain in it. Or sprinkle powder directly on the stain. Let solution or powder remain on the stain one-half hour; then rinse well. Repeat if stain remains. dampened Before using sodium perbo- rate on colored fabric, test it on a sample of the fabric or on a seam or hem of garment to see if the bleach will change the color. Chlorine bleach. Dip stains on undyed cotton, linen, or rayon fabric in a dilute solution of sodium hypo- chlorite, or other household chlorine bleach, as directed on the container. lf the stained fabric is colored, first test the bleach 0n a sample of the cloth to be sure it will not change the color. Never use a chlorine bleach on silk or Some fabrics treated with a glazed, embossed, wrinkle-resistant, or wool. other special finish are also damaged by chlorine. SODIUM PERBORATE WATER 'l'l Upholstered Articles, stMuttresses, Rugs First remove loose mold from outer coverings of upholstered articles, mat- tresses, rugs, and carpets by brushing xvith a broom. Do this outdoors if possible to prevent scattering mildew spores in the house. Run a vacuum cleaner attachment over the surface to draw out more of the mold. Do every- thing conveniently possible to dry the article——use an electric heater and a fan to carry away moist air. Sun and air the article to stop the mold growth. If mildew remains on upholstered articles or mattresses, sponge lightly with thick suds of soap or synthetic detergent, and wipe with a clean, damp cloth. In doing this, get as little water on the fabric as possible so the filling does not get wet. l2 Another way toremove mildew on upholstered furniture ‘is to wipe it with a cloth wrung out of dilute alcohol (1 cup denatured or rubbing alcohol to 1 cup water). Dry the article thor- oughly. Sponge mildewed rugs and carpets with thick suds or a rug shampoo. Then remove the suds by wiping with a cloth dampened in clear water. Dry in the sun if possible. Use a low-pressure spray containing a fungicide (pp. 5, 7) to get rid of musty odors and mildew; respray fre- quently, especially in localities where mildew is a major problem. i Vapors of paradichlorobenzene or paraformaldehyde used in closed areas as directed on page 8 will stop mold growth. If molds have grown into the inner part of an article, send it to a reliable drycleaning or storage company for thorough drying and fumigation. Fumigation will kill molds present at the time but will not protect the article against future attacks. ~ FUNGICIDE Leather Goods To remove mildew from leather goods, wipe with a cloth wrung out of dilute alcohol (1 cup denatured or rub- bing alcohol to 1 cup water). Dry in a current of air. If mildew remains, wash with thick suds of a mild soap, saddle soap, or a soap containing a germicide or fungicide. Then wipe with a damp cloth and dry in an airy place. Polish leather shoes and lug- gage with a good wax dressing (p. 8). Shoes contaminated with fungus growth on the inside often develop un- pleasant odors, and variously colored growths show on the inner sole and linings and up into the toe. You can remove this kind of mildew with form- aldehyde solution, obtainable from your druggist. Moisten a cotton-tipped applicator stick with the solution and swab the inside of each shoe thor- oughly. Then wrap shoes tightly in a paper or plastic bag and allow the for- maldehyde vapors to permeate the shoe materials for at least an hour. Before wearing the shoes, air them thoroughly out-of-doors. Precaution: Vapors of formaldehyde are very irri- tating; do not inhale them. Do not get the solution on your skin. Low-pressure sprayxs especially in- tended for lreshening shoes are avail- able at shoe and department stores. FUNGICIDE SPRAY They contain hexachlorophene, dichlor- ophene, or other fungicides. Use them as directed and repeat as needed. Another way to stop mold growth in leather goods is to scatter crystals of paradichlorobenzene or to dust para- formaldehyde powder in shoes or lug- gage, then place in tight containers (see p. 8). chemicals are effective in killing molds that have grown into leather, but they The vapors from these give no lasting protection against fu- ture contamination. As the vapors leak out, the chemicals must be re- placed. Before using the shoes or lug- gage, air them thoroughly. Wood lise heat and improved ventilation to get mildeued wood as dry pos- sible. Wood that is badly infected may need to be replaced, preferably with wood that has been treated or that is naturally decay resistant. ‘l3 Thoroughly clean mildewed floors, woodwork, and other wooden parts of structures by scrubbing them with a mild alkali, such as washing soda or trisodium phosphate (4 to 6 table- spoons to a gallon of water). Paint and grocery stores sell these products under various trade names. Rinse well with clear water and allow the wood to dry thoroughly.‘ Then apply a mildew‘- resistant paint (see p. 10). l , Paper and Books Remove any dry, loose mold from paper with a clean, soft cloth. If mil- dewed paper is damp, dry it first——in an airy place if possible. To dry wall- paper, heat the room for several hours or days to dry the plaster as well as the paper. Plaster should be dried slowly to prevent it from cracking. TALCUM ;.;.;.;.-.~:~:~:;;;:;:; ..... a . ‘l4 If the mold has grown into the wood under paint or varnish, it may be neces- sary to scrub the wood first with an abrasive cleaner. Then wash with a solution containing 4 to 6 tablespoons of trisodium phosphate and 1 cupof household chlorine bleach to a gallon of water. Finally, rinse the wood well with clear water. Dry thoroughly and apply a wood preservative (see p. 9) before repainting. I If mildewed paper is washable, wipe it with a cloth wrung out of thick soap- suds, then with clear water. Take care not to wet the paper» more than neces- sary. Do not rub it. Finally pat with a soft, dry cloth. bleach with a commercial ink eradi- Be careful if the paper is the eradicator will bleach If stains remain, cator. colored; print and dyes as well as stains. Spread pages of books out fanwise to air. If the books are very damp, sp-rinkle cornstarch or talcum powder between the leaves to take up the mois- ture. Leave starch or powder on for several hours, then brush off. See sug- gestions on page 10‘ for keeping books and papers dry. Use a mildew in- hibitor——paradichlorobenzene or para- formaldehyde——to stop mold growth (p.8). U.5. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: I960