TEXAS AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION R. D. LEWIS, Director, College Station, Texas 757 g Characteristics and Spinning Performance of Mechanically-stripped Cotton on the High Plains 4 LIL i Canyfllq J/i”, h .liga?‘ . .9 175/517 < p> I953 The TEXAS AGRICULTURAL _ME€'HANICEAL CQLLEGE SYSTEM r _ -$>I|00 aswm 0.00M 0.00M v.0M 0.0 9~BQEEM|>000 ..l.| |||l 00v 0.0M wwfigwzwlmznww v.M 0.vM ww.~moo|0.0-0.0 0.0m 5m w§5-£|v0é> v.00 0.v0 wwm~w>m|0.v-0.v v.0 0M0 waspmfi Ewwlwaifi N0 v0 0.0» 0.M0 2n0|0.0-0.0 39G .53.» pwofi M5002” fihpisbmfi 59G .50.? 59G QMOMQQ s2: $0 wommipw-wcwsowz Mépwozms-wcmfl $53M wwmmwhpwécwsumz wopwwkrfims-wcmm wfimfiwopuwvm 1B8. we pcwgwm _ i300 we 0803mm _ humpsfiwz wmwcwcmh 39C p300 was wpohwon wouwgps: 59S 000M £5.33 mini 03m 0c 030.535 was wwwzosmh .0 oMafiM. 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All these samples were from cotton stripped mechanically. Fineness, maturity and tensile strength of the cottons sampled in 1949 are summarized in Table 1. It is evident that a high percentage of these cottons had fine fibers with average or better maturity, and tensile strength below average. These cottons were mixed for spinning on the basis of simi- larity in fiber properties. Quality and Fiber Characteristics, 1950 Forty-six percent of the stormproof cottons mechanically stripped in 1950 were in the highest grade group, middling light spot, strict low middling and strict low middling plus. This compares with 75 percent in the same group in 1949. Weather conditions in 1950 were less favorable for the pro- duction of desirable grades. A total of 498 samples were collected to compare the fiber properties and spinning performance of pre-frost hand pulled cottons with after-frost machine-stripped cottons. Of these, 351 samples were pre-frost hand-pulled and fiber tests were run on 331 and spinning tests on 20 of them. The after- frost machine-stripped samples contained 122 fiber tests and 25 spinning tests. Fineness, maturity and tensile strength of cottons har- vested before and after frost are shown in Tables 2 and 3. The pre-frost hand-harvested cottons were much coarser and more mature, but the difference in tensile strength was not so pronounced. In the two southern counties, Lynn and Dawson, 90 percent of the samples from the pre-frost harvested cottons were in the average and coarser class with respect to fineness. The longer, warmer growing season of the central and south- ern parts of the area produce coarser, stronger cotton fibers than the cooler, shorter growing season of the northern sec- tion. A large part of the cotton acreage in the northern sec- tion is irrigated. This produces finer, less mature fibers. A larger acreage of stormproof varieties also is a factor. In the northern section of the area, 61 percent of the cottons were in the average and coarse group. This is confirmation _._]_()_.. of generally accepted facts regarding High Plains cottons. The tensile strength of 47 percent -of the cottons from the two southern counties were in the average or above group but only 15 percent from the northern counties were in this group. Quality and Fiber Characteristics, 1951 Seventy-six percent of all cottons from field storage of the 1951 crop were low middling equivalent or better in grade; 69 percent of the cottons from trailers Were in the same group. Major differences in grade can be attributed largely to variations in growing conditions, variety and season. Samples from field-stored seed cotton which received one inch of moisture composed of rain and snow when in storage during the first week in January 1952, were of satisfactory grade. As indicated in Table 1, the 1951 cottons were coarser and stronger with a greater percentage of immature fibers than those of the two previous crops. Spinning Performance of 1949 Samples Twenty-five spinning tests were run on the 1949 machine- stripped cottons. Twist multipliers of 3.75, 4.25, 4.75 and 5.25 were used over a range of yarn numbers of 7’s to 28’s (see definition of terms). Neps varied closely with fineness; it is believed that on the coarser yarns the effect of neps on yarn appearance grade was not significant. Twist per inch is more important in the coarser cottons than in the finer. The finer cottons take more twist before reaching a shearing point than the coarser cottons. Since the cottons of the High Plains vary in fineness, spinning tests were made over the range of fineness to ascer- Table 3. Tensile strength of High Plains cottons, 1950 crop, harvested before and after frost Samples _ Number Percent of total Tenslle Hand- Machine- Machine- Hand- strength harvested stripped stripped harvested before frost after frost after frost before frost 72 & below ...... ..weak 118 29 33.6 19.7 73-77 ............... ..fair 132 102 37.6 69.4 78-82 ................ ..average 83 15 23.7 10.2 83-89 ............... ..very good 18 1 5.1 .7 351 147 100.0 100.0 tain the spinnability, yarn grade and strength of these cottons. The spinning tests revealed that 7/3-111011 cotton in the very fine category behaved differently during processing into 11’s yarn than did the 7/3-inch cotton that was coarser and stronger. Maximum strength was obtained in nearly every instance with 14.2 turns per inch. Although the very fine 7/3-inch cotton had somewhat lower tensile strength than the other 7/3-111011 cotton, the yarn made from the weaker, finer cotton was as strong as that made from the coarser, stronger cotton. The strength of the yarns made from the weaker and finer cotton was increased by packing more fibers into a bundle and thereby obtaining greater cohesiveness when twisted. Maxi- mum strength in 14’s yarns was usually reached for both the fine and the coarse fibers with a twist of 15.8 turns per inch. Table 4. Yarn appearance grades 0f yarns processed from stormproof cottons, 1950 crop, harvested before and after frost Hand-harvested Machine-stripped before fro-st after frost Yarn count Yarn No. of Percent No. of Percent appearance tests of total tests of total 11’s 22’s 11’s 22’s 11’s 22’s 11’s A— 2 5 28.6 71.4 3 3 20.0 20.0 B+ 3 1 42.8 14.3 11 11 73.3 73.3 B 2 1 28.6 14.3 1 1 6.7 6.7 Total 7 _7 100.0 100.0 15 15 100.0 100.0 Yarn appearance Grade Designation . Index‘ A and above .................. ..Excellent 130 B+ ................................... _.Very good 120 B ...................................... ..Good 110 C+ ................................... ..Average 100 C ...................................... ._Fair 90 D+ ................................... ..Poor 80 D and below ................. ..Very poor 70 ‘The yarn appearance index provides a means of averaging the appear- ance grade of two or more yarn numbers, and for comparlng yarn appearance values obtained in the testing of a specific sample with those of the general average of cotton. A yarn appearance index greater than 100 indicates higher than average yarn appearance, whereas‘ a yarn appearance smaller than 100 indicates lower than average yarn appearance. Cotton Branch, PMA, U. S. Department of Agnculture. ___]_2__ The final test of the cotton is its performance in a fabric. Several samples 0f machine-stripped cotton of one variety were grouped according to fiber properties for spinning and then made into fabrics. The main purpose of fab- rication was to determine the effect of fineness on fabric strength and use value. Coarse fabrics, such as ducks, drills and sheetings, were made from these cottons. The breaking strength tests indicated that fineness of fiber is not detrimen- tal to the strength of the finished fabrics. The fabrics Were acceptable in appearance and were of B grade, or better. The breaking strength data of the fabrics and previous experience in correlating such data With wearing qualities indicate that strong and durable fabrics can be made from High Plains cotton. Spinning Performance 0f 1950 Samples The pre-frost, hand-harvested, stormproof cottons of the 1950 crop are contrasted with the after frost machine stripped stormproof cottons in Tables 4 and 5. The after-frost, ma- chine-stripped stormproof cottons compare favorably with the before-frost, hand-harvested cottons in yarn appearance grade and skein strength. Table 5. Skein strength of yarns processed from stormproof cottons, 1950 crop, harvested before and after frost Hand-harvested Machine-stripped before frost after frost Average of 7 samples Average of 15 samples Skein strength Skein strength Twist Twist multiple 11’s 22’s multiple 11’s 22’s 4.25 190.0 lbs. 83.7 lbs. 4.25 193.0 lbs. 83.2 lbs. 4.75 188.1 lbs. 84.5 lbs. 4.75 193.0 lbs. 83.0 lbs. Spinning Performance of 1951 Samples Nine varieties of the 1951 crop were tested for spinning performance. Sixty-two spinning tests were run; 54 of these are included in the four summary tables covering the four principal varieties, Tables 6, 7, 8 and 9. The nep count of the 1951 cottons was much lower than either of the other two machine-stripped crops. The lower nep count produced a superior yarn grade. These tests indi- cate that the properties of the various varieties remain as stable as climatic conditions permit. _]_3__ Table 6. Fiber properties and spinning data, 27 tests, Macha variety, 1951 Fiber properties Upper half Mean Length Fiber strength Fineness Maturity mean length length uniformity (1000 lbs. per (micrograms (percent) (inches) (inches) (percent) square inch) i per inch) Average .90 .64 71 75.8 3.7 60 Range .83—.98 .58-.75 66-79 71.7-81.4 2.8-4.8 40-71 Processing results Nep count (neps per 100 square inches card web—40 gr. sliver) Average 21 Range 8-44 Picking and carding waste (percent) Average 21.11 Range 12.38-32.52 Yarn strength-skein (pounds) Twist multiple Yarn N0. 3.75 (Average) (Range) 4.25 (Average) (Range) 4.75 (Average) (Range) 5.25 (Average) (Range) Yarn grade Average 11’s 187.7 169.5-206.3 186.8 172.2-203.1 180.2 161.6-194.8 173.5 152.6-188.1 3+ 14’s 138.3 120.2-152.1 141.4 132.3-148.9 135.8 128.2-143.6 131.6 121.0-146.2 3+ 70.8-86.5 3+ 28’s 57.3 43.0-64.2 60.3 52.9-68.9 59.9 50.3-66.1 59.6 50.7-64.9 3+ __14_. Table 7. Fiber properties and spinning data, 12 tests, Stormproof N0. 1 variety, 1951 Fiber properties Upper half Mean Length Fiber strength Fineness Maturity mean length length uniformity (1000 lbs. per (micrograms (percent) (inches) (inches) (percent) square inch) per inch) Average .87 .61 71 73.6 3.6 59 Range .80-.93 .58-.66 67-74 69.3-79.3 2.9-4.4 44-73 Processing results N ep count (neps per 100 square inches card web—40 gr. sliver) Average 17 Range 7-33 Picking and carding waste (percent) Average 22.03 Range 18.53-26.33 Yarn strength—skein (pounds) Twist multiple Yarn No. 3.75 (Average) (Range) 4.25 (Average) (Range) 4.75 (Average) (Range) 5.25 (Average) (Range) Yarn grade ' Average 11’s 188.8 154.9-213.3 181.5 157 .1-195.5 172.1 162.4-180.3 167.0 157.4-175.4 3+ 14's 137.6 128.8-149.9 140.9 131.0-150.1 132.7 128.2-138.4 128.6 122.8-133.4 3+ 71.s§s0.s 3+ 57.3 52.7-62.8 3+ Table 8. Fiber properties and spinning data, 9 tests, CA-122 Early variety, 1951 Fiber properties Upper half Mean Length Fiber strength Fineness Maturity mean length length uniformity (1000 lbs. per (micrograms (percent) (inches) (inches) (percent) square inch) per inch) Average .87 .62 71 76.8 4.2 66 Range .84-.90 .58-.66 68-77 70.8-80.8 3.4-4.9 57-72 Processing results Nep count (neps per 100 square inches card web--40 gr. sliver) Average 16 Range 7-26 Picking and carding waste (percent) Average 19.50 Range 16.91-24.07 ” Yarn strength-skein (pounds) Twist multiple Yarn No. 11’s 14’s 22’s 28’s 3.75 (Average) 186.8 138.1 81.8 58.2 (Range) 173.4-204.2 129.6-153.0 71.6-93.4 52.9-67.3 4.25 (Average) 192.6 139.5 82.2 59.7 (Range) 177.3-212.4 133.3-150.0 76.1-86.9 55.4-68.0 4.75 (Average) 188.1 136.2 81.8 60.1 (Range) 172.7-207.2 132.5-144.0 78.6-87 6 56.1-67.9 5.25 (Average) 182.6 134.6 78.5 58.4 (Range) 1642-1992 129.2-143.0 75.0-84.2 55.0-64.3 Yarn grade Average B+ B+ B+ B+ Table 9. Fiber properties and spinning data, 6 tests, Northern Star variety, 1951 Fiber properties Upper half Mean Length Fiber strength Fineness Maturity mean length length uniformity (1000 lbs. per (micrograms (percent) (inches) (inches) (percent) square inch) per inch) Average .90 .63 70 75.9 . 3.9 64 Range .85-.96 .61-.65 66-72 70.9-80.3 3.6-4.3 57-68 Processing results Nep count (neps per 100 square inches card web—40 gr. sliver) Average 12 Range 8-19 Picking and carding waste (percent) Average 23.56 Range 17.56-27.22 Yarn strength—skein (pounds) Twist multiple Yarn N0. 11’s 14’s 22’s 28’s 3.75 (Average) 192.6 141.4 82.2 62.3 (Range) 178.4-205.4 123.7-148.9 75.8-89 0 56.0-66 5 4.25 (Average) 196.2 140.8 83.0 63.1 (Range) 181.3-207.0 131.7-145.8 75-.8-87 5 58.5-66.9 4.75 (Average) 192.3 132.1 85.6 64.2 (Range) 174.3-200.6 122.3-137.0 76.9-91 9 57.7-69 4 5.25 (Average) 180.8 126.2 84.7 65.6 (Range) 169.6-188.1 116.8-132.2 76.4-89.7 54.4-80.1 Yarn grade Average B+ B+ B+ B+ While the cotton grown on the High Plains is practically all one inch or less in length, utilization necessitates knowing ‘the physical properties of the fiber. Cotton with a high percentage of immature fibers does not dye uniformly. One eastern mill operator refuses to buy any cotton from this area of less than a specified fineness as all his products are dyed. The savings in dyestuffs alone more than justifies the expense of buying on specification. It is because of the importance of fiber properties that the data presented in this report type the cotton by variety. Thus, the purchaser of cotton of the area can rely fully on the classer’s length and grade and the laboratory fineness and maturity tests as the guide in obtain- ing cotton of the required specifications. Many. of the mills use these cottons for fabrics such as ducks, awning materials and belting. The essential require- ments in such products are yarn and fabric strengths. For this reason, the yarn strengths and the ranges for each twist are given in this report. With the strength data at the various twists, the mill operator will be able to find the variety that best meets his specifications. At the same time, the mill can determine at what twist the maximum strength may be real- ized. This is also graphically shown for 85 percent of the varieties tested in Figure 1. As quality and waste are competitive features which most mills must take into account, the nep count, processing waste and yarn grades are of vital concern to mill men. These factors may serve as guides in organizing their production methods for achieving results comparable with those of the pilot plant. Summary Year by year an increasing percentage of the cotton on the High Plains is being stripped mechanically. In 1949, a year of high production, 35 to 40 percent of the crop was stripped mechanically. Stormproof varieties are best adapted to mechanical stripping. Grades from such varieties are higher and wastage during the stripping process is much lower than from open- boll varieties. Spinning tests make data available on cotton of known fiber properties. These data can be used as an aid in selecting cotton varieties with fiber properties similar to those of the cotton spun in the tests. The results of the spinning tests can then be duplicated__within a reasonable range. I90- I80- l70— I50; I40’- I30- Norfhern Star variety ——— CA—|22 Early variety ---- -- Macha variety no- Yarn skein strength (Pounds) Stormproof variety ——— IOO — 90 _ 22's Yarn 80- 70- _ _ __o__-__..__...___-o- -Q-¢--_-_i.__-- 91"’- -