A    NOVEMBER 1959

       o|=
READY-MADE
STREET DRESSES

u

Summary

This bulletin reports consumers’ interest in and
use of label information on ready-made street
dresses, the availability of such information and in-
dustry practices in the provision of labels. The data
were obtained in 1956-57 by interviews with 992 ur-
ban women who bought ready-made dresses in the
year previous to the interviews. Half of the sched-
ules were obtained in Dallas and equal numbers of
the remainder from each of four smaller cities. These
were Plainview, Terrell, Nacogdoches and Kingsville.
Managers of retail stores where the women purchased
their dresses were interviewed and information on
dresses in the stores also was obtained. Dress and
fabric manufacturers were interviewed in the spring
of 1958.

Most of the women interviewed looked for labels
when purchasing dresses; more than half made this
a usual practice. Only one-fifth indicated they paid
little or no attention to labels.

Those who sought label information when buy-
ing also made good use of the information they
found. There were indications that they would make

‘better use of information if more were available to

them on labels.

Eighty-nine percent of the women preferred to
get information about dresses at the time of purchase
from either the label only (49 percent) or both label
and salesperson (40 percent). Eleven percent pre-
ferred to get information from only the salesperson.

Sewn labels on dresses in stores provided little

‘information except brand name (57 percent) and

size (61 percent). Hang-tag labels provided most of
the available information, yet less than half of the

idresses had information on whether to dry-clean or

wash and only one-fourth had washing instructions.
These two items of information were used by the
largest number of women. Less than one-third of
the dresses had most of the information that the
women were interested in and using.

2 i
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Labels on dresses costing under $20 pr)
more of the needed information than dresses -,
$20 or more. '

Both retailers and manufacturers emp
the importance of label information concerni _
content and care instructions and the use of '1
formation by consumers. v

Changes in fibers and fabrics are made r
and the consumer needs specific information ~f
dress or fabric she buys to care for the fabric-e
erly. The development of new synthetic fib _
blends and the application of new finishes;
new kinds of information necessary for the
sumer. Fiber content alone is not sufficient 2i
mation to enable her to care for a fabric.

Dress manufacturers were aware of the r
sion of labels and the lack of specific usable 
mation. They recognized the need for brief,
stated, reliable instructions for care of fab ‘I
have satisfied consumers and a minimum of re
merchandise. They favored the elimination t
travagant claims for care or performance fea
They also favored fewer labels and less adv

The responsibility for effective labeling lies
several groups: (1) with fiber and fabric m -*
turers and suppliers for providing specific and
instructions for the use and care of their fib ‘
fabrics; (2) with dress manufacturers for obt’
good labels and attaching them to all dress“
with retailers for retaining these labels on a: f
the consumer can read and use the infonnati“
each dress she buys; and (4) with consumers-ft:
questing labels with specific information I055
using properly the information and instructio/
them. Women need to recognize that they m w
consistently for information and that it can be>
vided. i

- p.

   
   
   
   
   
   
  
  
   
   
  
   
   
   
  
    
  
  
   
  
  
  
  
   
  
 
 
 
 

3.

iDEVELOPMENTS IN FIBERS AND FINISHES are
Q- most consumers are confronted with the
of keeping abreast of the changes in tex-
 clothing. ‘Problems in the purchase and
‘heady-made garments have increased rapidly
i years. The many new synthetic fibers be-
,in addition to the familiar manmade and
ffibers, the growing practice of blending
g ore fibers within a fabric and the appli-
 new finishes have made the need for a
‘e of care and performance features greater
i, before. This knowledge is particularly
 for fabrics used in women’s street dresses
‘ends of fibers and new finishes are most
l and where changes are most rapid.

Qls on garments are an effective means of
ygneeded information to the consumer at
 she needs it. Complaints and dissatisfac-
H garments often are caused by a lack of
“on that could be provided by an adequate
lby the consumers failure to read the label
_ow recommendations for use and care of
I e. Some garments enter the retail store
 or no information on labels other than
A "i. name. Labels often are removed or lost
atments reach the consumer. Some retail
I?“ ove most or all labels upon receipt of
 or they request manufacturers not to
bels. Retailers, dress manufacturers and
ippliers, as well as consumers, are concerned
 problems because of the complexities in
ufacture and retailing of dresses. There
sarily interrelations and interdependence
 l of these groups if satisfaction in the use
fmade dresses is to be attained and economic
 imized.

iystudy reveals the extent to which labels
f. information needed by consumers and the
° which this information is used; it presents
1 the attitudes and problems of manufactur-
gardito labels. Some related information
1g to consumer buying practices also is

ely, assistant professor and formerly professor, Depart-
Home Economics.

beling of Ready-made Street B76156!

‘ Phyllis Drake and Mary Anna Grimes*

Plan of Study

Data were obtained by interviews with 992 ur-
ban women in the fall, winter and spring seasons
of 1956-57, Approximately half of the schedules
were obtained in Dallas; the ‘remainder were dis-
tributed about equally among four cities with pop-
ulations of 10,000 to 25,000. Plainvew, Terrell,
Nacogdoches and Kingsville were selected randomly
from varied geographical areas to learn if there
were differences in consumer opinions and practices
because of climate and economic factors. The sam-
ple within each of the five cities was selected ran-
domly from city directories.

Clothing inventory and related studies have re-
vealed more similarities than differences in the
clothing practices of rural and urban families. Since
it was reasonable to expect similarities in attitudes
of rural and urban women toward labels and in
their use of them, this study was confined to urban
women to facilitate sampling and interviewing.

Contents
Summary ____________________________________________________________ __ 2
Introduction  __________________________________________________ __ 3
Plan of Study ____________________________________________________ __ 3
Awareness of Labels
and Use of Information ______________________________ __ 4
Frequency of Looking for Labels __________ __ 4
Information Found Most Helpful __________ __ 5
Availability of Information on Dresses ...... .- 6
Labels 0n Dresses in Stores ______________________ __ 6
Views of Retailers and Manufacturers  7
Information Women
Considered Disirable ______________________________ __ 8
Sources of Information about
Clothng and Textiles __________________________________ __ 3
Preferred Source at Time of Purchase  8
Sources of General Infonnation ____________ __ 9
Buying Practices of the Women ____________________ __ 10
Number of Dresses Purchased __________________ __ 1()
Fiber Content ____________________________________________ __ 11
Cost of Dresses Purchased ________________________ __ 11
Reasons for Selecting Dresses Purchased .- l5

8O P E Frequently

 
   

   

 

 

 

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Under Any Beyond
high high school high
school school graduate school

Figure l. Frequency of looking or asking for labels
according to education.

Only women who had purchased at least one
street-type dress during the preceding year were in-
terviewed. The definition of a street dress was
broad and included most dresses that customarily
would be worn for such occasions as shopping, club
meetings, church or informal social events. Two-
piece dresses and costumes or coordinates were in-
cluded, but lined suits, cocktail, evening and patio-
type dresses were not.

Managers of retail stores where the women pur-
chased most of the dresses they reported buying also
were interviewed at the time of the consumer in-
terviews and label information on dresses in stock
was recorded. Selected dress manaufacturers in Dal-
las, Houston and Nacogdoches and one fabric man-
ufacturer contributed information relating to the
provision of labels.

Awareness of Labels and Use of
Information

Frequency of Looking for Labels

Most of the women interviewed looked for a
label of some kind on dresses they purchased. Fifty-
three percent always or usually looked for labels
and 27 percent sometimes or occasionally looked.
Only one-fifth indicated they gave little or no at-
tention to labels. No distinction was made in this
question as to whether the label was sewn or hang-

4

   
 
   
   
   
  
  
   
   
   
  
    
 
   
   

tag. Sewn labels, usually attached to the nec
of dresses, are more permanent and most often 
a brand name with little or no other informa
Hang-tags may give more detailed information a
fiber content, care and performance features of"
fabric, as Well as advertising. ‘

The proportion of women: looking or asking
labels at the time of purchase" increased mark
as the level of education increased, Figure 1. _
with more education no doubt more often read
information. i

The relationship of the women’s educati
level and family income is shown in Figure 2.
cation and income usually are associated cl
These two factors had a similar relationship t0
women’s awareness of labels as they also looked7

labels more often as income increased.

Women in the lowest (under 50) and the 
est (50 and over) age groups looked for labels
often than those in the two intermediate age 
of 50 t0 59 and 40 to 49, Figure 3. ‘

The frequency with which women in the 
ious occupational groups looked for labels was 
ilar. Homemakers with no paid employment if, .1
side the home and women in professional, cleri '

lOO t"
Family income i
a Under $5,0
Q $5,000 e o  

90-

8O

70‘

60*-

50-

4Q"-

Percent of women
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30-



    

20."

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Below Any l-liqh Bey 
high high school hi9 .

school school graduate sch 

Figure 2. Relation of annual family income ai
education of respondent. i‘

 
  
 
 
  
   
 
 
  
  
 
  
 
  
  
 
  
   
 
  
 
 
  
 
  
 
  
  
  
 
 
 
  
   
 
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
  
  
 
  

and business occupations looked for labels most
ently. Women in the skilled and unskilled
“,- looked for labels less frequently. These wo-
p‘ often wear uniforms or inexpensive dresses
_~ are more like house dresses than street
g Mothers were very conscious of labels in
a en’s wear and in men’s wear and for this rea-
{may have looked also for dress labels which
yd give information about fabric and care. The
 was expressed for more specific information
'= garments, especially regarding care.

 omen buying dresses costing $20 or more
 for labels more frequently than those buying
es costing less than $20. Their needs, how-
1,were not being met as Well in the higher price
 as in the lower. In the stores, there was
 usable information on dresses costing less than

<‘ omen who made a practice of seeking labels
i» saved them for future reference. Their com-
its indicated they found it practical to save hang-
so they could refer to cleaning or washing in-
' 'ons until a dress had been laundered or dry-
i ed at least once or twice.

i mation Found Most Helpful

hat the women were using much of the infor-
'on available on labels is shown in Table 1. Con-
 are concerned whether garments can be
 ed or must be dry-cleaned, and 82 percent
‘I this information on labels helpful. Some
 a practice of dry-cleaning all dresses except
_aps everyday cottons but many prefer to laun-
at home any dresses that will retain an attrac-

appearance with reasonably careful home laun-

g.

The instructions for laundering were used by 67
ent of the women. Washing instructions may
ude such things as whether to machine or hand
 , how to drip-dry, use of bleach, whether to
V ine-dry, whether to avoid wringing or twisting,
perature of water, kind of detergent to use, di-
!'ons for pressing with steam or dry iron and
_'n"g temperature to use. Labels do not always
 complete information about laundering.

iAlmost half  the women used information on
r content. Tliieir interest in fiber was related to
_ of the fabric. Their comments indicated that
\ ey knew what the fabric was made of, they had
tter idea of how to care for it and, if launder-
e, what methods to use. They also believed that
dry-cleaners could do a better job if they knew

m Frequently

Seldom or never

8O
7O ”
6.0 -

50L-

Percent of women

20-

    

Under 3O 30-39 40-49 50 8 over

Age ranges

Figure 3. Frequency of looking for labels according
to age.

the fiber content. Many thought there would be
distinct cleaning advantages if the fiber content
were put on the garment on a permanent sewn-in
label. The rapid development of new fibers, each
with distinct characteristics and properties, and of
new finishes and methods of applying them make
it essential that specific information about cleaning
and washing procedures be provided with each
ready-made garment or piece of fabric if the pur-
chaser is to know what methods of care to use. Such
things as temperatures for washing, drying and iron-
ing, and the use of bleach may affect fibers and
finishes in different and sometimes adverse ways.

The brand name was helpful to 22 percent of
the women. They liked to find a brand of dress
that generally provided them becoming styles or in-
teresting fabrics or was usually cut along lines that
met their particular fitting problems. Some brands

TABLE 1. LABEL INFORMATION CONSIDERED MOST
HELPFUL
Information Percent of women using
Care (dry clean or wash) 82
Washing instructions 67
Fiber content 44
Brand 22
Shrinkage 2O
Size 17
Coloriastness 16
Finish 9
Manufacturer's name 7
Miscellaneous 7

      

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Both
Figure 4. Types of labels on 4,603 dresses in stores.

may be made in half sizes or diminutives or have
extra length in the waist.

Fewer women indicated that shrinkage, color-
fastness, size and finish were helpful. The low per-
centage of women (only 9 percent) who said finish
was helpful may be due largely to a general lack of
knowledge 0f textile terms and facts. They were
enthusiastic about wrinkle resistant fabrics but ap-
peared to have little real knowledge of finishes and
what they contributed to performance of fabrics.
Finishes other than starch have been used only in
recent years and consumers may not be as familiar
with these new terms and processes and their appli-
cation to fabrics as they are with shrinkage and
colorfastness.

TABLE 2. INFORMATION ON SEWN LABELS ON 4,538
DRESSES IN STORES

Price of dresses
Under $20 $20 and over

Dresses with
information

Information

Number Percent Number Percent Number Percent
Numberot

dresses 4,538 ’ 3,366 _ 1,172
Brand 2,594 57 1,919 57 675 58
Size 2,740 60 2,370 70 370 32
Dry-clean

or yvash 23 1 17 1 6 1
Iron tem-

perature 32 1 15 1 17 1
Fiber name 251 6 195 6 56 5
Fiber percent 92 2 58 2 34 3
Fabric name 19 1 12 1 7 1
Manufacturer's

name 136 3 84 2 52 4
Store name 287 6 61 2 226 19

‘Lessthan 1 percent

as

  
   
 
   
  
   
   
   
     
    
    
  
  
   
 
   
    
 
   
    
  

Availability of Information ~
Dresses a

Labels on Dresses in Stores

Of the dresses observed in the retail stor *1
seven percent were found without labels of
kind, Figure 4. Dresses were selected at 
for examination of label information fromQ
sentative price and size ranges. The specific"
of information that could be found on the»
were then recorded. There was a profusi
labels but relatively little information of teali
in using and caring for the garments.

Brand and size were found on sewn la‘,
less than two-thirds of the dresses, Table 2;;
information was negligible. Fiber name and I
name were given for 6 percent. When p
the store name was usually on dresses costin
or over. Whether to dry-clean or wash, whi
women found important, was on less than on pf
cent of sewn labels. '

Although much information was availab
hang-tags, Table 3, relatively few dresses had ,,
of the information which women were inter
in; the information available was found mosg
quently on the less expensive dresses. Labe i
costlier dresses provided little information f
care and performance features of the fabric.

Instructions to dry-clean or wash were on?!
than one-half of the dresses; 82 percent of the.
men found this information helpful. Only f
fourth of the dresses had washing instructio‘
garments that could be laundered, yet two-thir
the women had found these instructions helpf _

Information on fiber content perhaps more ‘
met consumer’s needs as it was on 55 percent 0
dresses; 58 percent included percent of the r,
fibers as well as the name of the fiber. Fiber;
tent information was found more frequently o,’
dresses costing over $20 than was other inf?
tion. a

The information about finish on 30 percc,
the dresses most often pertained to wrinkle i
ance or “wrinkle shed.”

Shrinkage information was on 18 percei
dresses and used by 20 percent of the women; i
fastness information was on only 8 percent and-
used by 16 percent. Brand and manufacturer's t’
were found frequently on hang-tags, but brand
more often on sewn labels. Construction fey ,
were given on very few dresses, but a few 

  
  
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
  
  
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
 
 
  
   
 
 
  
 
  
 
 
  
  
 
  
  
 
 
 
 
  
  
 
  
 
 
 

 attention to such features as waistline seams
i, ld be let out for added length in the bodice.

ormation that was clearly misleading was
_, on less than 1 percent. However, there
‘e other distinct problem. Too many labels
iwordy." Some were all advertising and ex-
. information about care or performance of
Eric or garment. Many labels did not state
] and accurately the information most desired
 ed by the purchaser. Often there were such
fnts as “dry-clean or wash” with perhaps
iiwashing instructions, followed by the state-
ffor best results, dry-clean.” Such statements
ls are confusing and not very helpful.

 of Retailers and Manufacturers

;¢ of the complaints of both retail store man-
and dress manufacturers was that carefully
J fabrics too often were not cared for prop-
Vy the consumer. Iron temperatures that were
 and improper use of bleach were mentioned
3 tly as being leading causes of damage to
i which resulted in customer complaints and
is of merchandise. Dress manufacturers
i». that care instructions (whether to dry-clean or
,1 h, and washing instructions), fiber content,
"emperature and directions for use of bleach
a jimportant on labels. The women were less
ned about iron temperature and use of bleach
iwere the manufacturers. This is an area of
I care that the average consumer needs more
l‘. tion about. Manufacturers attached less im-
ice to such information as shrinkage, color-
Js and finish in which the women were
ted.

 g-tag information considered important by
bric manufacturer was fiber content and wash-
I tructions including drip-drying. Instructions
,1 ashing were considered especially important
g rics having the new finishes. This mill made
washable fabrics. This manufacturer thought
, particularly important to have the iron tem-
‘ e given for blends of dacron since the mill
ed some complaints about fabrics damaged by
i e of too high temperatures in ironing. The
‘gement of this mill favored the use by dress
‘facturers of. hang-tags giving explicit instruc-
‘for care because this practice seemed to result
3' er complaints and returns.

Lang-tag labels are provided the dress manu-
‘ i er by the converter or mill from which he pur-
c. fabrics. Fabric manufacturers and converters

TABLE 3. INFORMATION ON HANG-TAG LABELS ON 4.538
DRESSES IN STORES

Price of dresses
Under $20 $20 and over

Dresses with
information

Information

Number Percent Number Percent NumberPercent
Number of

dresses 4.538 3.366 i i 1.172
Dry-clean

or wash 2.036 45 1.825 54 211 18
Washing in-

structions 1.123 25 1.026 30 97 8
Iron tem- i -

perature 983 22 867 26 116 10
Fiber name 2.481 _ 55 1.849 55 632 54
Fiber ‘

percent 1.702 38 1.215 36 487 42
Fabric name 702 15 508 15 194 16
Finish 1.340 30 1.209 36 131 11
Shrinkage 798 18 768 23 30 2
Color-

tastness 364 8 349 10 15 1
Brand 2.190 48 1.834 54 356 30
Manu- -
facturefs

name 1.564 34 1.376 41 188 16
Construc- ,

tion 135 3 103 3 32 3
Misleading

information 25 1 23 1 2 1

‘Less than 1 percent.

are in the best position to know how fabrics should
be used and cared for and to supply specific infor-
mation about fiber content, and care instructions
since they know what fibers and finishes are used
in a fabric. The labels may have to be requested
by the manufacturer but usually are supplied vol-
untarily with each fabric shipment. The converter
or mill bears the expense of these tags.

Sewn labels usually are stitched in the neckline
when this seam is finished and before the waistline
seam is made. They may be sewn by hand on ex-
pensive dresses. Hang-tags are attached after the
final inspection of finished dresses and prior to
shipping. Dress manufacturers and the one fabric
manufacturer considered the expense of providing
labels not excessive and well worth what it cost.

Six of the 67 store managers indicated that they
usually removed all labels that came on dresses and
replaced them with their own. Another eight said
they sometimes did. Among these were managers
of both large and small stores. Some preferred to
attach sewn labels with the name of the store. Some
replaced hang-tags with small uniform tags giving
a minimum of information" such as size, price, lot
or stock numbers and perhaps fiber content. Sev-
eral indicated that hang-tags attached by dress man-
ufacturers resulted in an undesirable cluttered ap-

7

pearance when their“ stock was displayed. On the
other hand, several manufacturers said they made a
special effort to attach hang-tags in a uniform man-
ner, as inconspicuously as possible and to use a min-
imum number of tags that would give the consumer
the information she needed. Manufacturers ship-
ped dresses without hang-tags attached when re-
quested to by their customers (the retailers). Thus,
there are many factors which prevent either the pro-
vision or retention of labels on ready-made dresses
until they reach the consumer.

Seventy-nine percent of the retail store managers
considered their stocks of street dresses to be labeled
adequately. Data obtained from dresses in" the
stores do not show this to be the case. Of those

i who thought they were not labeled as well as they

could be, half thought fiber content was most lack-
ing. A few thought there were not sufficient in-
structions about washing.

More than two-thirds of the retailers used label
information in various ways to sell dresses. They
believed consumers wanted information from labels,
particularly for fabric care, so they left the labels
on the dresses. They believed their customers re-
lied on label information. One-fourth made an ef-
fort to call their customer’s attention to label in-
formation. Almost as many made use of the brand
name in selling.

When asked what use they thought their cus-
tomers made of labels, nearly two-thirds of the re-
tailers believed consumers made good use of infor-
mation and emphasized their use of care (to dry-

~--~-clean or to wash) and washing instructions. Nine

Frequency
70 " E Always

5Q - Usually

         
  

   
     
  
 
   
   
   
  
 
 
 

  
       

    
   
   
       

    
      
    
   
   

 

Q Sometimes
E’ 5O Never
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e 20 - >92 55/92
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 3:6 v 
 v '52: '33 , Z3252

 

Label Salesperson Both

(49°/,) (ll%) l40°/<>l

Figure 5. Relation of preferred source of informa-
tion about dress and frequency of looking for labels.

TABLE 4. REASONS FOR PREFERRING INFOR 
' FROM LABEL. SALESPERSON OR BOTH .

Source of inform 

Reasons for preferring Label Salem
person
— — — Percent —:

Probably more reliable source 6&5 i
Like to see it myself  22
Can save tag to refer to later 9
Saves time 2
Easier to ask salesperson 34
Salesperson may know or give

more information 31
Salesperson may give firsthand

or other information 28
More information if from both
Other reasons 2 7
Total 100 100

    
   
 
  
 
   
  
   
 
  
  
   
   
   
  
  
  
    
 
  

percent thought their customers wanted fiber r
tent information, and 15 percent indicated cust
interest in favorite or preferred brands. Seven,
percent thought their customers paid little or‘
attention to labels. This is in close agreement 
the one-fifth of the women who said they gave lib
or no attention to labels. ‘

Information Women Considered Desirable

Toward the end of the interview the wo g
were asked what information they would like i
have in both sewn and hang-tag labels. Their
swers were influenced by previous discussion" to i“
extent that they had some ideas as to what type,
information could be included on labels. They g
cluded that on sewn labels desirable ~informa _
would be (1) the source of the dress such as br v
manufacturers name or name of store which co‘
be relied on to supply a satisfactory dress at a fu
time or to make good if the dress proved defecti
(2) information as to whether the dress should‘;
dry-cleaned or washed; (5) fiber content; and 
the size placed so it could be found readily. v
brand name and the size were on 57 and 61 pert
respectively, of the dresses in the stores. ‘

Information considered desirable to have 
hang-tag labels was more varied: to dry-clean 1
wash (65 percent); laundering instructions (90 -
cent); ironing temperature (80 percent); fiber r
tent (67 percent); colorfastness (81 percent
shrinkage (80 percent); and finish (67 percen
Their interest in instructions to dry-clean or wash r,
hang-tags depended on whether this informati,
would be included on the sewn label. There is 
advantage in having this particular information 0i
permanent label on the garment. The largest num ‘

 
 
   
   
  
  
  
  
  
  
   
  
  
  
   
 
   
   
  
   
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
   
  
   
   
  
  
    
  
  

 desired laundering instructions which is
 nt with the use they were making of this in-
'on. They placed more emphasis on iron
jture, colorfastness, shrinkage and finish.
 the women reported having used a too-hot
 some fabric and puckering or melting it.
 were some complaints about colors fading,
llly blues.

ources of Information about
Clothing and Textiles

d Source at Time of Purchase

 eral sources of information about fabrics, per-
i) ce features and styles are available to con-
' s. Labels and salespeople are the principal
i‘ for information about dresses at the time of
 Ase. Articles in magazines or newspapers, ad-
.' g by various media, courses in clothing or
‘s, personal experience or opinions of other
he may be sources of more general information.

Almost one-half (49 percent) of the women pre-
i to get information about a dress at the time
rchase from the label and only 11 percent from
lesperson. Forty percent preferred informa-
lfrom both label and salesperson.

1! heir reasons for preferring labels related pri-
y to the reliability of printed information back-
g- by the manufacturer, Table 4. Convenience
i-the personal element were important to those
tring to get information from the salesperson.
yd reasons were given for preferring informa-
from both, but it generally was felt that more
i ation was available if it came from the two
es.

f; heir preferences for these sources were related
eir frequency of looking for labels, Figure 5.
= e more often looking for labels preferred labels
th label and salesperson as a source of infor-
"on. Those depending on the salesperson for
rmation were the ones who infrequently or never
ed for labels. Women with education below
school preferred labels less frequently and de-
"i ed on the salesperson more frequently than did
 with more education, Figure 6.

. grces of Geriieral Information

The women reported frequent use of various
ces of general information about clothing and
"les. Seventy-four percent used articles in maga-
i and newspapers; 28 percent had courses in
p” ing or textiles, mainly in high school or col-

Education

E Below high school
7O _ Q Any high school
E High school graduate

60 T Beyond high school

Percent of women

Label Salesperson Both

Figure 6. Preferred source of information according
to education.

lege; 76 percent learned about clothing and textiles
from advertising of various kinds. Practically all
(94 percent) learned from their own experience and
80 percent from talking with other people.

Those who never looked for labels when pur-
chasing used fewer sources of general information
than those who looked for labels. This suggests
that consumer education programs might make
greater use of these and other media in educating
consumers in the advantages, to them as well as to
retailers and manufacturers, of finding and using
the information now available on labels and de-
manding greater availability of needed information.

At all educational levels, they tended to use
their own experience more than the other sources,
Figure 7. Those with education below high school

Education
E Below high school

Any high school
4O P Q High school graduate
Beyond high school

   

   
    
    
   
     

N)

O

' t V v V
‘ '0":-

 
    

Percent at replies
6
$39393. .



  

O

Articles Courses Advertise- Experience Talking with

meats 99°F"!

Figure 7. Sources of general information according
to educational level.

 

6 or more i

o a n ¢ w.

  
  

    
  
   

..
6

    
    
    
 

0
o.o.o.o.o.o.e.o.o.o.e.o.o
0
0 o
ozezezozezezozo°e$ ' '
~ 0.03 9 e

       
 
 
  

tOOOOOOOOOOOO
s
\O‘.Q.OOOOOOOOOO
O
.0
‘.0

‘Q

\

   

I-n
9-

Figure 8. Number 0 resses purchased.

used experience the most, apparently learning by
trial and error. Learning by talking with others
was used next most often by this group. The pro-
portions who had courses of some kind in clothing
and textiles were greater as the educational level
rose. All educational groups used articles and ad-
vertising of various kinds about equally.

Buying Practices of the Women

Number of Dresses Purchased

Women often are credited with buying more
dresses annually than they actually buy. The data

show that 15 percent bought one and 45 percent

bought two or three dresses, Figure 8. This means
that more than one-half (58 percent) bought not
over three dresses. Twenty-eight percent bought four

      
   
   
 
 
 
 

Age
E Under 3O
30-39

g 5O and over

g so-

‘5

3 40 -

C

g 3o- mr/‘I!
Z _ 
2 2° 22%;»;
§ _ 
a '° ass/id
‘L ss/ai

 

       

O

l 2- 3
Number 0f dresses

5
u
U‘
U’!
'3
5
3

Figure 9. Proportion of women by age who bought
the indicated number of dresses.

l0

 
   
   
  
   
  
   
   
  
   
  
  
  
   
  
    
 
   
  
  

or five and 1.4 percent bought six or more. Incl i
in this was one percent who bought ten 0r n,
dresses. The average number purchased was f
This number was about the same as in a clo 
inventory studyl in Birmingham, Alabama, but’:
about 1.5 more dresses than in northern cou
and cities in the same study. A

There were surprisingly small differences by,
in the number purchased, Figure 9. There w,
trend for those under 40 more often to buy ii
three dresses and those 4O and over more frequ
to buy six or more. In all age group, few (be ~~
10 and 2O percent) bought only one dress 0r n
than five. Forty to 47 percent in all ages b0,‘
two or three and 25 to 50 percent bought foul,
five. I

Money available to spend for clothing appj
to be a decisive factor influencing the numbe
dresses purchased, Figure 10. There were dis
differences in the number purchased by women -i
incomes under $5,000 and those $5,000 and 0
Those under $5,000 more frequently bought i‘
two or three dresses. With higher incomes,
more often bought four or more. In general, i .
number of dresses was in direct ratio to incom"
women with lower incomes bought fewer dresses f
as incomes rose they bought more. ’

Approximately one-fourth of the women W
in each of the four age groups under 50, 50 to? i
40 to 49 and 50 and over. The relation of inc‘
and age is shown in Figure 11. Those underc
or 50 and over, accounted for most of the 13 t
cent who had incomes under $5,000. The va

lFamily Clothing Inventories and Purchases, Agricultural l 
mation Bulletin No. 148, U. S. Department of Agriculture.

Annual income
Q Under $3,000

$3,000-s4,999

 

7O "

g Q $5,000 46,999
 6° ' $7,000 0nd over
g 5O — /
g  r- .../I..:
2 p} *
C  _ ,9 v.9‘
E /;a / u.

- : >0
g 2O _ i s‘ 321%’? _
‘o’ lo _   V,
P /»I~1 /'1° 227i
§ O ‘1- [in 1x169: iiz/rii
8 I 2 - a 4 - s e orm

Number of dresses a

Figure l0. Proportion of women by income

bought the indicated number of dresses.

 
  
 
   
  
  
   
  
   
  
  
   
   
  
   
   
   
   
  
   
  
   
  
  
   

n income leveled off at age 40 and over. The
- s of 13 percent were under $3,000; 35 per-
 ere $5,000 to $4,999 and 51 percent were
 to $6,999. Twenty-one percent had incomes
i» 000 or over.

U Content

A e fiber content of the dresses purchased dur-
f. year was determined insofar as possible by
i_'ve means—that is, by observation or by
Q label information. Some fabrics were ident-
jreadily by either the person interviewed or the
iiewer. Often the respondent had labels from
g ess or remembered what fiber the label had
ted. It was felt that fiber content was fairly
ately determined according to the classification
ble 5 with the possible exception of the wool,
f? linen blends. Fabrics of all or nearly all one
_' were more readily identifiable by observation
”l. Many of the synthetics and blends of syn-
l s so closely resemble natural fibers that it
pd be difficult for experts to identify them ac-
Yely without laboratory means.

I" tton led in popularity with more than one-
g of the dresses made either of cotton or blends
tton as might be expected in Texas’ generally
_‘ climate. Wool, of which only 6 percent of
i: dresses were made, would doubtless claim a
_ a larger proportion in a clothing inventory study
ding suits, sweaters, skirts and coats which ac-
i} for much more wool fiber than dresses. Wool
 s are often too warm in the mild climate pre-
i g in much of Texas. Also, women are much
_ested in washable fabrics and many of the syn-
“cs provide washability as well as warmth. The
vlopment of washable characteristics for wool

Age
fl Under ‘so

ao- a9
E 4o - 49
5O and over

   

 
  

    
     
  

"vow
A)...

    

$1618‘

      

   

 



   
  

‘V .7 .7 .7 .7 .1 ‘V
. . . .
5.4


egg

    

Under sapoo canoe-eases ssooo-sesee SZOOOond over
Income ranges

i re ll. Relation of annual family income and
' of respondent.

TABLE 5. FIBER CONTENT OF DRESSES PURCHASED

Fiber Percent of dresses
Cotton 41
Cotton blends 14
Wool 6
Silk or linen 11
Wool. silk. linen blends 4
Manmade fibers or blends

o! manmade fibers 24
Total 100

or wool blends may increase the demand for wool
dresses.

Cotton was preferred primarily because of wash-
ability and comfort, Table 6. Appearance and wash-
ability were important in the choice of cotton blends.
Appearance also was important in the preference
for silk and linen while both comfort and appear-
ance determined preferences for wool. Service-
ability and durability were considered important in
the choice of most fibers.

Dress manufacturers indicated that cotton was
the fiber most widely used by them with the man-
made fibers next. Many acetates, silks and wools
were used. Although much of their market is Tex-
as and the Southwest region, most of the manufac-
turers contacted also have national distribution
where dresses of heavier and warmer fabrics are in
demand. About 80 percent of all the fabrics made
by the one mill were cotton and the only blends
were with dacron.

Cost of Dresses Purchased

Nearly one-half of the dresses purchased by the
women cost under $15 and 69 percent were under
$20, Figure 12. The remainder were about equally

TABLE 6. REASONS F OR PREFERRING FIBERS

Fiber

Reasons for Silk Mum Blends
Pfelerring Cotton Couon Wool and made other Total

blends . . than
linen fibers cotton
— — — — ——Percent—————-—-
Comfort 41 4 22 9 16 8 100
washability 49 11 _ 6 30 4 100
Appearance l3 l0 14 29 27 7 100
Practical,
economical 26 8 9 23 3U 4 IOU
Serviceable.
durable 25 7 21 19 19 9 100
Miscellaneous
reasons l0 12 31 ll 81 5 100
(Cleaning or
pressing
advantages.
blends. etc.)

11

   
  

Under $10
$20-929

' $|O-$|4
s|s—s|9

Figure 12. Percentage of dresses in each price range.
divided between those costing $20 to $29 and those
$30 or more.

The price paid for dresses was directly related
to family income, Figure 15. Women in the two in-
come groups under $5,000 bought about the same

lflCOmC
E Under s $000

i $3,000 44,999

   

50 - Q $s,00o-$e,999
$7,000 0nd Over
4O -
ID 000
g 30 —  Q
E ~55 222\-.
8  ===\'*
a 20 - 222\.~ §§§\I'1
a 1??\’o°~ ::: §>Q =E=E
 
=:=\>I*. 2E5  5552
10- %\v w\~%
zzz§tbz §§§\':°.
3§E\>.§ :52}: 
§\$§ m§mL
O w§£¥ fi&fi§

Under SIO SIO " H4

12

COP.

OOOOOI
IOOOI.
OOOOOO

$l5' i$l9
Price ranges

Figure l3. Relation of cost of dresses and family income.

 
   
  
  
   
  
   
   
  
  
  
   
  

proportions of dresses in each of the five};
ranges. Two-thirds of the dresses these V
bought cost under $15 with relatively fewin ,
and over price brackets. The cost of the ~_
bought by women in the $5,000 to $6,999 i,
was rather evenly distributed in the lower We
ranges but dropped sharply at $20. The .22
price for this group was the $15 to $19 dresses
those with incomes $7,000 and over there i
noticeable increase in the proportion of dress
and over and a decrease in those under $2
especially in those under $10.

Of the 34 women who did not answer the l
tion on family income, 25 were homemakers
no paid employment outside the home. The ' ‘
question was not asked directly. Respondents
handed printed cards showing income rang
were asked to check one that most nearly c
ponded to her family’s income for the past y

v
.4

   

9 ' :
$ 2
> ¢ 2;.
s1: 
\’~‘  ‘=5 a.  F22
0 Q .;.; o0 . - Q ,3 5;.
\>‘¢ 252; 2:; i‘¢‘2=2=2 v.52;
\>:¢ E35; ::: \-°o‘ 525E; >‘o' F52
§V  SEE  0:5 ===E=
‘d :::; ::: - v 22;; -;=\> ~ 252;:
\§ Q 2:2; 1 1 I \...‘ ;.;.; ::: \).. 53;!
or? i252 222M  222. >t~ 22? 2
$20-$29 $300nd0i

' There was little difference in cost when one
dress only and when four or five were bought, Fig-
ure 14. When two or three dresses were bought,
they usually cost under $20, but if six or more were
' purchased, they often cost $20 or over.

f’; There were only small differences in prices paid
/ ~ for dresses by women of different ages, Figure 15.
- I i / _ \ Not only did women 40 and over buy more dresses
I  \. (Figure 9) but they also tended to pay a little more

Under $20 I  for them.

   
      

I ’ Sixty-nine percent of the women had no paid
b I $20 and over employment outside their homes, Although those
I ’ employed were also homemakers, they were not in-
I’ cluded with the 69 percent who were counted as
_ l,’ homemakers only. The 51 percent who were em-
I’ ployed was about the same as in a USDA clothing

f inventory study? and close to recent Department of
’ Labor figures?’ which show that 35 percent bf all
1 1 1 1 women are employed and 53 percent of all workers
| 2.. 3 4-5 60', more are women. Of the 310 women with paid employ-

Number of dresses _
2Ib1d.

 e l4‘ Relation of cost of dresses to number 3What’s New About Women Workers? Leaflet 18, Women's
l‘ ased- Bureau, U. S. Department of Labor.

  
  

     
     
   
    

  
  
 
  
 

     
  
  
 
   
   

 

     

 
    

Q Age
 5o f a Under 3O
so - 39
40 _ Q 4o - 49
A 50 and over ti,
so -
22s2\‘ sss\‘ ..
a ssss§ :ss\ :2‘
‘ 20 _ ::::\ :::\ ::;
.:2;§; s:s\ 2Q»?   ;=;=
E531 - EEE\ 5“\'° ===\% ===s
3;\\ ;3\\ ;§\\fB§ :q\\3;§ \§¢y
IO - ::::\ -III\ :::\o'o ,§§;\,°,'  555E
- zzr§ f ::\ ' : : \o'o :3: :::\,°,' ;;;§-°o‘:;:§
m &\ m\A§ §\~a m\~g
=11 §  1=ES§ “‘\’:°5i5 ===§N ZEEE\:'I
iii   §§::\ §§:\'¢° §:§; §§§\>:Q ;::§\'¢'4 
oi &\¢m %\ m\v~ *\wa wxma

 
   

Under $10 $10 - s14 $15 - s19 szo- s29 $30 0nd Over
Cost of dresses

Figure l5. Relationship between cost of dresses andage of women purchasing.

13

 

TABLE 7. DISTRIBUTION OF OCCUPATION OF RESPOND-
ENTS AMONG INCOME GROUPS

Income range

Occupation of Nuloniber U d $3 000 $5 000 $7,000 T 1
respondent replies siiotiti 4.999- sjsse-  <33“

——-———Percent—————

Homemaker only 657 i 12 37 30 21 100
Professional 67 12 24 31 33 100
Clerical 117 12 29 40 19 100
Sales 20 25 35 25 15 100
Business 19 16 16 26 42 100
Skilled 60 15 47 28 l0 100
Unskilled 18 33 39 28 0 100

ment, 59 percent were clerical, 22 percent profes-
sional and 20 percent skilled workers. Six percent
each were in sales, business 0r unskilled employ-
ment. Seventy percent were employed full time.

Unskilled and skilled workers, homemakers and
saleswomen purchased, in the order given, the lar-
gest proportions of dresses costing under $10. Pur-
chases of $10 to $14 dresses were similar for all
occupational groups except business; these women
tended to purchase few low priced dresses and more
in the $20 and over price ranges. Purchases of $15
to $19 dresses were highest for sales, clerical and
business women in the order given. Dresses costing
$20 to $29 were bought less often by women in
sales, skilled or unskilled work and most frequently
by business women. Business women also made the
largest purchases of $30 or over dresses followed
by homemakers and professional women.

Many of the employed women, particularly s
and unskilled workers, were in the low family
come groups, Table 7. These occupations draw l‘
pay for women while the professional, clerical, ti
iness and skilled workers are better paid. Th
were the occupations most often in the middle J
high income groups. Business V;and professional 
men were more often in the $7,000 and over inco
class than were those with other occupations.

Incomes classified by occupations of husba
showed much the same pattern as for women's
cupations. Large proportions of clerical, sales, s 1
ed and unskilled workers were in the under $5,
income groups. One-half of the retired or disab i
had incomes under $5,000 and most of the rem
der had $5,000 to $4,999 incomes. Men engag
in professional work, business or farming had g
highest incomes. However, the number who farm
was small in relation to the number in other 0c y
pations. ’

Occupations of both respondents and husbani
were rather equally distributed between the fol
small cities and Dallas except in the case of pr
fessional workers. Higher proportions of the latt
were in Kingsville and Nacogdoches whereista’
colleges are located. There is also an air base‘
Kingsville and officers were considered in the pr’
fessional group. Thirty-eight and forty percent y,
the respondents in Nacogdoches and Kingsville, r
spectively, were employed compared to the 25 per
cent in Terrell, 29 percent in Dallas and 30 pert:
in Plainview. Nine of the husbands engaged '

Type of store
Specialty

   

Department

Under $20

14

Department
Mail order

Specialty

4% Mail order

  

Department

$20 and over

Figure 16. Relation of cost of dresses to type of store where purchased.

l% Mail order



f?
"a

 

Cost of dresses
Under slO

$IO- s14
Eels - sue
s20 -s29
E550 and over

I .

    
 
   
  
   
  
  
  
   
  
   
   
  
  
 
    

o‘.

331333

3333333;

 

f3

  

‘O

Cosh Charge
Type of Purchase

Layaway

   
    
   
  
   
  
  
  
  
   
  
   
  
  
  
  
  
   
 
 

e l7. Relation of cost of dresses to type of
 ase.

fng were in Plainview, two in Kingsville and
in Dallas. The few (only 12) who farmed
ein the high income groups.

The cost of dresses was closely related to both
a of store where purchases were made and the
 of the purchase. Forty-three percent were
f; in specialty shops and 54 percent in depart-
4 stores. Lower priced dresses were bought
. often in department stores than in specialty
Vs, Figure 16. Only three percent of the dresses
e bought at other places such as mail order
 es or manufacturer's outlet stores; practically
dresses costing $15 or more were purchased in
.- manner.

Fifty-eight percent were cash and 58 percent
i. charge purchases; only four percent were
Fght on a layaway plan, Figure 17. The less ex-
 ive dresses were cash purchases and as price in-
A< ed more were charged. Of the few layaway
chases, most cost less than $10.

The total number of dresses bought by 502 wo-
Q in Dallas atidi49O in four smaller cities was
put the same—an average of 3.35 and 3.54, re-
f ively. Women in Dallas bought a few more
p ses costing $20 or more than women in the
er four cities who bought a few more in the $10
$14 range than Dallas women", Figure 18. Pur-

4O — city .
E4 small cities

Dallas

Percent of dresses

 

Under slO slO-sl4 sl5-sl9 $20-$29 sBOond over
Cost of dresses

Figure 18. Cost of dresses purchased by women in
four small cities and Dallas.

chase of dresses costing $10 or less and $15 to $19
were approximately the same for the five cities.
Women in Terrell and Kingsville had the highest
average number of dresses per person and also the
highest percentage of dresses costing under $15.
Kingsville and Nacogdoches had the greatest pro-
portion of employed respondents. Most were pro-
fessional or, in Nacogdoches, business women.

Reasons for Selecting Dresses Purchased

Appearance accounted for almost half of the
reasons given by the women for selecting the dresses
they bought, Table 8. Their selections were made
primarily on the basis of how well they liked the
effect or appearance of the dress. Although this
first impression of the style, color or interesting de-
tails of trim or design was important, they did not
ignore care and performance features. Label infor-
mation which related to these items was sought and
used most often by the women.

TABLE 8. REASONS FOR SELECTING DRESSES PURCHASED

Reason Percent

Appearance 48
Style. trim 3U
Color ‘A l8
Fit and usefulness. 25
Fit ' 1
Comfortable
Versatile
Need
Fabric and care 25
Fabric
Practical
Washable
Easy care
Giit or other 2
Total 100

hUIQGO finbnhbi

15

  

* MAIN STATION
p nu SUBSTATIONS

fl TAILS new LABORATORIES
l COOPERATING STATIONS

Location oi field research units oi the Texas
Agricultural Experiment Station and cooperating

agencies

ORGANIZATION

OPERATION

Research results are carried t0 Texas farmers,
ranchmen and homemakers by county agents

and specialists of the Texas Agricultural Ex-

tension Service

   

: I y i:  
joclay :5 fiedearcA .96 ommorrow a regress f

   
  
  
  
   
    
   
   
   
  
  
  

7
I

Stategwide Research

‘k

The Texas Agricultural Experiment Stationi
is the public agricultural research agen I
oi the State oi Texas, and is one oi ten,
parts oi the Texas A&M College System

IN THE MAIN STATION, with headquarters at College Station, are 16 Q
matter departments, 2 service departments, 3 regulatory services and‘
administrative staii. Located out in the major agricultural areas oi Tex i’
21 substations and 9 field laboratories. In addition, there are 14- cooper,
stations owned by other agencies. Cooperating agencies include the T
Forest Service, Game and Fish Commission oi Texas, Texas Prison Sy’
U. S. Department oi Agriculture, University oi Texas, Texas Technolo
College, Texas College oi Arts and Industries and the King Ranch. 5'
experiments are conducted on iarms and ranches and in rural homes.

THE TEXAS STATION is conducting about 400 active research projects, gro .
in 25 programs, which include all phases oi agriculture in Texas. Ant
these are: l‘
Conservation and improvement oi soil Beei cattle
Conservation and use oi Water Dairy cattle
Grasses and legumes Sheep and goats
Grain crops Swine
Cotton and other iiber crops Chickens and turkeys g
Vegetable crops Animal diseases and parasites:
Citrus and other subtropical iruits Fish and game f
Fruits and nuts Farm and ranch engineering i“
Oil seed crops Farm and ranch business "
Ornamental plants Marketing agricultural produc
Brush and weeds Rural home economics .
Insects Rural agricultural economics ’
Plant diseases I

Two additional programs are maintenance and upkeep, and central servi

AGRICULTURAL RESEARCH seeks the WHATS, the
WHYS, the WHENS, the WHERES and the HOWS oi
hundreds oi problems which confront operators oi
farms and ranches, and the many industries depend-
ing on or serving agriculture. Workers oi the Main.
Station and the iield units oi the Texas Agricultural
Experiment Station seek diligently to iind solutions to
these problems.

Texas Agricultural Experiment Station, R. D. Lewis. Director, College Station, Texas