Mission Santa Barbara
EARLY DAYS IN CALIFORNIA
By COLIN H. McISAAC
WITH REVISIONS By
REV. AUGUSTINE HOBRECHT, O. F. M.
¥
Copyright, 1917, by COLIN H. McISAAC Copyright, 1923, by L• S. COPELAND
Published by
COPELAND’S STATIONERY STORE San Marcos Building Santa Barbara CaliforniaSANTA BARBARA MISSION. Old fountain. Facade of Church and Cloisters, begun in 1808-09. This facade was damaged by earthquake in December, 1812, but not beyond reconstruction. Main body of Church was rebuilt in 1815-20. After 1808 nativesandstone was substituted for adobe.MISSION SANTA BARBARA
VENERABLE and impressive is Mission Santa Barbara, before whose altar the “sacred flame,” symbolical of the Real Presence, never has been extinguished. Since its founding, in 1786, not a day has passed without ceremonial ministrations. It is one of the best preserved, most interesting and beautiful of the old Franciscan
Missions now standing in California. None other occupies a location so commanding, nor awakens so much interest concerning the remarkable men under whose guidance the seeds of civilization were sown on California’s soil.
Before this monument of a pioneer civilization, even the most thoughtless representative of a ready-to-hand civilization pauses to ask: “What fire of heart, what urge of soul, lent to a handful of zealous priests and hardy, adventurous pioneers, in the face of privation, the courage, endurance, and spirit to build like this upon a primeval landscape, assisted only by aborigines?”
Leading events antecedent to the establishment of Mission Santa Barbara are related in the accompanying Early Days In California.
After California’s first Mission and Presidio had been founded at San Diego (July, 1769) by the Spanish-Mexican expedition, headed by Gaspar de Portola as Military Commander and Junipero Serra as Father President of the Franciscan Friars, the colonization of the territory progressed rapidly. In January, 1777, the eighth Mission was founded at Santa Clara.
Climate Called “Deliciosa”
Felipe de Neve, Governor of California, appointed in 1775 with instructions from Spain to make Monterey the seat of his government, realized the need for a Presidio between Monterey and San Diego, and plans were considered for one Presidio and three Missions on the Santa Barbara Channel. Father Serra also, foreseeing the value of a mid-way settlement, favored the site of Santa Barbara. He appreciated its many advantages, climatic and otherwise.
Even the records of the early voyages of Cabrillo (1542) speak of the kindness and hospitality of the Santa Barbara Indians, and apply to the climate the adjective “deliciosa.” A botanist accom-
3SAINT BARBARA
Born Dec. 4, 218 A.D. In Nicomedia, Asia Minor
Suffered Martyrdom at Age of 17, When Slain by
Her Own Father
In Persecution of Christians
by Roman Emperor
Venerated as Patroness against Thunder, Lightning, Firearms, and Sudden Death
Her Name was Given to Mainland and Channel in 1602
Mission Founded on Her Birthday 1786
Picture by Courtesy of Fr. Zephyrin Engelhardt, O.F.M., from his “Santa Barbara Mission.”panying Father Serra, noting the abundance of wild roses near Santa Barbara, describes the place as a “delightful paradise.”
On March 31, 1782, was founded San Buenaventura, first Channel Mission, and ninth bead in the Mission chain. Preparations immediately were undertaken for the establishment of the next Channel Mission.
Early in April of the same year, Capt. Jose Francisco Ortega, in command of fifty men, accompanied by Governor Neve and Father Junipero Serra, started from San Buenaventura and traveled west along the Indian trails on the beach. After crossing Rincon Creek and entering the fertile Valley of Carpinteria, they found numerous Indian villages, or rancherias. Arrived at Santa Barbara,* on ground now bounded by Canon Perdido, Garden, Figueroa and Anacapa streets, they established the Presidio of Santa Barbara April 21, 1782. It was then the site of a large Indian village, ruled by Yanonali, a friendly chief with authority over thirteen rancherias.
First Chapel Built; First Sermon Preached
Among the archives of the Parochial Church at Santa Barbara, in the handwriting of Father Serra, and signed by himself, is a quaint account of this event, of which the following is a translation :
“On the third Sunday after Easter, the feast of the Patronage of St. Joseph, the Patriarch, spouse of Holy Mary, April 21, 1782, on which day I the undersigned Junipero Serra, Presi-dente of these Missions among the Infidels, of said and by said College Apostolic, having arranged all necessary preliminaries, in a chapel made of brush and decorated as best the circumstances permitted, blessed water, and with it dedicated the land to God our Lord. We then raised a large and high cross,
*The name Santa Barbara was given in 1602 to channel, mainland, and islands by a Carmelite Friar who accompanied Vizcaino, the Spanish explorer. Sailing through Santa Barbara Channel, this expedition landed December 4, the anniversary of Saint Barbara’s death, but whether on mainland or islands is uncertain.
Saint Barbara was a Roman maiden of rank, born A.D. 218, in Nicomedia, a city of Northern Asia Minor. She was converted to Christianity in the days of Alexander Severus, an emperor friendly to Christians. Under Emperor Maximinus, after the assassination of Severus, the Christians were persecuted relenr-lessly, and Dioscorus, father of Barbara, participated in the cruelties. When the girl, then	seventeen years of age, pleaded with her father	to spare	the Christians,
he suspected that she had accepted	the faith. By torture	he tried	to compel her
to abjure	her religion. Failing in	this, he slew her with	his own	hand. Thereafter she	was revered as a saint,	and by some nations	venerated as patroness
against thunder and lightning, firearms and sudden death.
5which we venerated, and I thereupon celebrated the holy Sacrifice of the Mass for the first time in these lands and preached a sermon appropriate to the occasion. Because of the absence of an assistant it was necessarily a low Mass, and for the same reason the service was concluded with the Alabado instead of the Te Deum. May it be for the glory of God, the propagation of the faith and the welfare of souls.
“The first priests will be assigned on their arrival. This book numbers 212 pages.
“Fr. Junípero Serra, Presidente.”
Serra Dies With Vision Unfulfilled
Father Serra’s urgent desire was to found Mission Santa Barbara at once, but between himself and Governor Neve had arisen more or less friction concerning methods of controlling the Indians. Father Serra stood for the establishment of new Missions upon the lines previously followed, which he held strictly accorded with the duties assigned Franciscans under Spanish law, while Governor Neve proposed quite a different plan. Disappointed at this delay, Father Serra soon left Santa Barbara Presidio in the spiritual care of Father Dumetz and journeyed on foot to San Carlos Mission at Monterey.
In August, 1783, he sailed from San Francisco for San Diego, and in September of the same year, when seventy years of age, and greatly weakened by illness, began his last memorable Confirmation Tour. Walking up-coast from San Diego, he visited all the Missions and Indian settlements. He arrived at Mission San Carlos in January, 1784. Junípero Serra died at Mission San Carlos de Monterey y del Rio Carmelo August 28, 1784, and lies buried beneath the altar in that Mission.
Saint Barbara Honored
Under Father Francisco Palou, appointed to fill temporarily Father Serra’s place, conditions for the founding of Mission Santa Barbara were no more favorable than they had been. But in 1785 Father Fermín F. de Lasuen became Father President and gave his official attention at once to preparations for the fulfillment of Father Serra’s cherished hope. But the actual founding of Mission Santa Barbara was delayed until Saint Barbara’s Day, December 4, as Father Serra had been especially devout to this virgin martyr.
Experience had taught the Franciscans the advisability of hav-
6ing Missions at a distance from the Presidios, as the morals of the soldiers did not afford desirable example to Mission Indians. For this reason Santa Barbara Mission was located about a mile northwest of the Presidio, on a beautiful plateau, where was available a plentiful supply of water from what is now Mission Creek, then called Arroyo Pedregosa.
Mission Founded December 4, 1786
Here the Mission was formally dedicated December 4, 1786, as narrated in the following entry, signed by Father Lasuen, in the records of the Parochial Church of Santa Barbara:
“Begun on the appropriate day of the holy titular patroness, December 4, A. D. 1786. On the afternoon of which no higher solemnity having been permitted, I, the undersigned, Fr. Fermin Francisco de Lasuen, Presidente of the Missions of said and by said College Apostolic, proceeded, accompanied by three other missionaries, from the Presidio to this place, blessed water and thereupon dedicated the land to God our Lord, and in like manner blessed a large cross which we raised and venerated. We then recited the Litany of the Saints, chanting the Antiphon, with a prayer to our holy patroness. His Excellency the Governor arrived on the 14th of the above named month and year and removed the restraining order imposed on us and concluded to remain and witness the founding already begun in this place. On the 16th, after preparing a brush hut near the cross, I, in the presence of the Governor, sang Mass—first in this spot—in which the Rev. Fr. Apostolic Antonio Paterna also officiated and likewise delivered a short address on the subject.
“May it be for the higher honor and glory of God, the exaltation of His most holy name, and the good of souls.
“Fr. Fermin Francisco de Lasuen, Presidente.’’
Church Built; 185 Indians Christened
Thus was founded Mission Santa Barbara. But no buildings were undertaken until the spring of 1787, when a house for the missionaries, 15 by 45 feet, was built on the site of the present structure to the left of the Mission Church. Then a chapel, or church, was built, about 15 by 40 feet, a servants’ room, a granary, a house for the unmarried women, and one for the unmarried men.
7PRIMITIVE LAUNDRY. Beneath spreading Pepper Trees, in front of Mission. Arranged to impress on aboriginal mind that “Cleanliness is next to Godliness.” From mouth of huge bear, rudely carved by Indians, issued water (piped from Reservoir) into basin of masonry 23 by 65 feet, upon sloping sides of which Indian women washed their clothing.These buildings were of adobe, with walls about three feet thick, and roofs of heavy rafters, to which were tied long poles or canes. Soft clay, covered with a thatch of straw, was spread over these poles. After 1788 tiles were made, replacing the straw roofs.
At the end of 1787, one year after the founding, 185 Indians had been gathered at the Mission.
Father Zephyrin Engelhardt, devoted student and California historian of the Franciscan Order, has written a complete, authoritative history of the Missions. From his account of Santa Barbara Mission has been taken the following narrative:
“In succeeding years other structures arose as converts increased and industries were introduced. At the end of 1807 the Indian village, just southwest of the main building, consisted of 252 separate adobe buildings, harboring as many Indian families.”
Fountain Added in 1808
“The fountain in front arose in 1808. It furnished water for the great basin below, which served for the laundry purposes of the Indian village. The water was led through leaden pipes from the reservoir north of the Church. This reservoir, which to this day furnishes Santa Barbara with water, was built in 1806. To obtain the water a strong dam was constructed across ‘Pedregosa’ (Mission) Creek about two miles back of the Mission. It still is in good condition. Then there were various structures scattered far and near for the different trades, as everything that was used in the way of clothing and food had to be raised or manufactured at the Mission.
“The chapel proved too small within a year from the time it was dedicated, Sunday, May 21, 1787. It was enlarged in 1788, but by 1792 this also proved inadequate. As converts were coming in rapidly, the old structure was replaced in 1793 by an edifice 25 by 125 feet. There were three small chapels on each side, like the two attached to the present church. An earthquake, December 21, 1812, badly damaged this adobe building. On its site rose the splendid structure which is still the admiration of the traveler. Padre Antonio Ripoll superintended the work, which continued through five years, from 1815 to 1820.”
9In the early days the Padres aroused only the bewildered and curious interest of the natives, but soon the savages, encouraged by unvarying kindness, approached nearer with gifts. The native offerings were reciprocated with presents of sweetmeats, toys, and calico, which won the confidence of the Indians and their willingness to assist the Missionaries.
Indians Learn Industrial Arts
Gradually more restraint was exercised by the Padres. Except for occasional visits, limited to six weeks a year for each person, the natives were not permitted to leave the Mission. They were instructed systematically, not only upon religious subjects, but in the use of civilized tools and methods of labor. They proved adept in acquiring the mechanical arts, such as masonry, carpentry, cooking, farming, tailoring, shoemaking, production of adobe brick and roof tiles, and the blacksmith and milling trades. The girls and women learned to spin yarn, weave cloth and make clothing. Within ten years natives skilled in every ordinary line of industry were to be found at the Mission. New comforts and regular and abundant food were accepted willingly in lieu of their former free life, so that they voluntarily dwelt under Mission jurisdiction, in homes built for them, subject to rules of sanitation, order, and discipline.
When Santa Barbara Mission was established, it acquired possession of large tracts of land that were necessary for supporting the Mission settlement. Some of this land was divided into ranches to be used for different purposes, as, for instance, the ranches of Tecolote, San Miguel, Canada de las Almas, and San Marcos, where stock was herded. For wheat, barley, corn, lentils, garbanzo (chick peas), peas and frijoles (beans) there were the ranches of Dos Pueblos, San Jose, Abajo, San Juan Bautista, and Sauzal (now part of Hope Ranch).
Mexican Control Causes Unrest
The advance of the Indians under the Padres’ instruction was remarkable. From 1787 to 1834 the annual average of wheat raised was 3,617 bushels a year; of barley, 660 bushels. Corn, vegetables, grapes and other fruits were produced.
Thus Mission Santa Barbara, and its influence and wealth, grew without check until 1821, when Mexico proclaimed its independence of Spain. California, as a dependency of Mexico, became involved in the unrest which marked the state’s history down to
IOthe establishment of American rule in 1846. With other institutions Mission Santa Barbara suffered the disadvantages of this transition period, so that the year 1822 marked the height of its prosperity. Up to that time 4,917 Indians had been baptized.
Early in 1824 an Indian revolt, which began at Missions Santa Ynez and Purisima, spread to Santa Barbara. A conflict resulted between soldiers and the natives, incensed over real or imaginary wrongs. Despite the Padres’ efforts to quell the disturbance, two Indians were killed and three wounded, and four soldiers were wounded. The revolt continued for several months, but finally the deserting Indians were pardoned. Most of them returned to the Mission. Following this, although the buildings were in excellent condition, and the industries maintained, the Mission declined in prosperity.
Missions Sacked; Manuscripts Sent to Santa Barbara
Though the Franciscans showed that the Indians were not ready for secularization, the first law on the subject passed the Mexican Congress August 17, 1883, and other measures quickly followed. Of the ten California Missions secularized in 1834, Santa Barbara was one.
In the secularization period many Missions were sacked, books and records burned, and manuscripts used for gun wadding. But Santa Barbara escaped in large measure and became a depository for books and valuable papers from other Missions. This security resulted from the fact that the Franciscan Superior had sent to Santa Barbara some priests who were natives of Mexico, and not Spanish.
Monks Retain Control of Mission Church
Santa Barbara Mission was not sold, but remained in Franciscan control, and the ministrations of the Church in the historic edifice have not been interrupted. Though the Mission lost most of its secular possessions and many of its buildings fell into decay, the Church and the cloisters were well preserved.
From 1786 to 1834, when so-called secularization took place, there were 5,679 baptisms; 1,534 marriages; 4,046 deaths. In 1803 was recorded the largest population—1792. The largest number of stock of all kinds was 16,090 in 1809.
An inventory of the Mission made in March, 1834, by the newly appointed Commissionado, showed:
11INTERIOR OF MISSION CHURCH, SANTA BARBARA. Length of Nave, exclusive of Choir, 13S feet; width, 30 feet (Inside measurement). Wood carvings and designs are Indian work, Thor’s Thunder Bird or Winged L’ghtnlng being repeated often. Two arched Chapels In foreground are Oratories built In solid walls, here 12 feet thick.Credits, $14,953; buildings, $22,936; furniture, tools, goods in storehouse, vineyards, orchards, corrals and animals, $19,690; Church, $16,000; sacristy, $1,500; vestments $4,576; library, $152; ranchos, $30,961. With a debt of $1,000.
Bishop Francisco Garcia Diego y Moreno, appointed in 1839 to take charge of the new Diocese of Upper California, made Santa Barbara his See and lived at the Mission from 1842. But the Mexican government failed in its promises concerning the Missions and the new Diocese. Hence no progress in the rehabilitation of the Mission resulted at that time.
Church Lands Rented by Den and Hill
An effort was made in 1843 for the restoration of the Old Mission system, and Santa Barbara was ordered returned to the control of the Padres. But the conditions under which the system could exist could not be restored. Debt covered nearly all the Mission properties, and their incomes were not sufficient to maintain public worship and care for the Indians, who, generally, were in a deplorable condition.
Under a proclamation of October 28, 1845, for the sale of nine Missions, and the leasing of others, including Santa Barbara, the property of the latter was rented to Nicholas A. Den and Daniel Hill. The lease included all Mission buildings except the Church and the cloisters. The valuation was $20,843, comprising more than 3,000 head of stock, the San Jose vineyard north of Go-leta (now the Sisters’ Ranch), the San Marcos Ranch in Santa Ynez Valley, and storehouses, shops, a tannery, vineyards and orchards in the neighborhood of the Mission. A meager rental of $1,200 a year was the amount available for the support of the Bishop, Padres, and Indian survivors.
College Planned; Parish Church Built
After five years of useless protest, Bishop Diego y Moreno died in 1846 at Mission Santa Barbara, and was buried there.
Without bloodshed the town of Santa Barbara passed under the jurisdiction of the United States in 1846. Since then Mission Santa Barbara has been unvexed by annoyances that characterized Mexican rule. But of its once wide possessions, only a small part remains.
Following Bishop Diego y Moreno, Father Gonzalez Rubio became Administrator of the whole Diocese of California, and in
!31850 surrendered control to Rt. Rev. J. S. Alemany, who made him Vicar General of the Diocese. In the Bishop’s administration, in 1853, Santa Barbara was selected for the establishment of an Apostolic College for the education of young men for the California ministry. As Father Jimeno, appointed President of the new college, did not find the Mission buildings suitable for the purpose, the property at State and Figueroa streets, Santa Barbara, was purchased. A church, immediately built thereon, was dedicated July 23, 1854, under the title of Apostolic College of the Blessed Virgin of the Seven Sorrows.
On the arrival in Santa Barbara of Rt. Rev. Thaddeus Amat, who succeeded Bishop Alemany, the diocesan residence was transferred from the Mission to the Church at State and Figueroa Streets. Soon after negotiations were concluded whereby the Mission buildings, church, orchards, vineyards, etc., passed to the perpetual use of the Franciscan Fathers, while the church and residence at State and Figueroa streets, Santa Barbara, became the property of the diocese.
St. Anthony’s Seminary Established in 1896
Matters at the Mission ran on with varying interest until Fr. Jose M. Romo, with letters patent as Guardian, arrived at Santa Barbara in January, 1872. Convinced that the Franciscan Mission at Santa Barbara was too isolated from other houses of the Order, and not sufficiently strong of itself to make satisfactory progress, Father Romo, May 5, 1885, obtained a decree by the General of the Order changing the Mission from its independent state and annexing it to the Province of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, with headquarters in St. Louis.
As a result of this change, new zeal was infused into the work of the Fathers, new buildings constructed, and old ones repaired.
On July 22, 1896, a classical school was founded for the education of young men for the priesthood. This school, known as St. Anthony’s Seminary, now occupies an imposing building of native sandstone, built in 1899, two hundred yards west of the Mission. A large, up-to-date addition was constructed in 1923, so that the school can compete easily with other institutions of similar nature.
Mission Santa Barbara is now the mother-house of the Franciscan Province of Santa Barbara of the Pacific Coast, comprising California, Arizona, Oregon and Washington.
14CHURCH AND GARDEN DESCRIBED
THE architecture of the California Missions is called Moorish, but this hardly is warranted. Though the Missionaries, reared in the atmosphere of castled Spain, may have been influenced by their early impressions, there was no departure from the general lines of the style of their epoch, which was Spanish Renaissance, in a popular form. This might correctly be termed Franciscan, but popular usage accepts it under the name of Mission.
Franciscan garb consists of a dark brown, plain, long-sleeved tunic reaching nearly to the ground, confined about the waist with a knotted cord of white, the cord of St. Francis, representing symbolically the halter or bridle of a subdued animal, for such it pleased the man of Assisi to consider the body in relation to the spirit. A small cape, a pointed hood, and sandals complete the habit.
Walls Are Six Feet Thick
Santa Barbara Mission of today includes the Church, monastery, or home of the Padres, the cemetery and two gardens.
The present Church, constructed entirely of native sandstone, was begun in 1815 and dedicated in 1820. It is the most solid structure of its kind in California. The Church proper is 165 feet long, 42 feet wide, and 30 feet high on the outside, and is roofed with tiles made by the Indians in the early Mission days. The walls, of irregular sandstone blocks, are six feet thick, and are strengthened by solid stone buttresses measuring 9 by 9 feet.
Double towers, a feature of this Mission, rise to a height of thirty feet. They are masses of stone and cement 20 feet square. A narrow winding stone stairway leads through the western tower to the belfry, from which the old bells still call the faithful to divine service.
Franciscans Have Private Garden
Joining the Church proper on the southwest is a large stone structure 36 by 240 feet, two stories high. The facade is supported by eighteen Roman arches, above a paved corridor, upon which the cloisters open.
At the rear, in an angle formed by the junction of the dwell-
!5MISSION SANTA BARBARA AND SURROUNDINGS. In 1787 erection of nece All structures were of adobe, with walls 35 to 40 inches thick, covered with cement fi Indians in 1787.
(1) Settling Tank, where water was clarified for Old Mission. (2) Reservoir, I (3) Upper Reservoir Ruins, formerly used for Storage water for operating Mill betwee brick, and tiles were made.lecessary buildings was begun, including Granary, Carpenter Shop, Tannery and Mill, it from lime deposits in the vicinity. Church and Cloisters roofed with tiles made by
lir, built in early Mission days; at present part of water system of Santa Barbara city, ween two Reservoirs. (4) Ruins of Mill. (5) Ruins of Pottery, where utensils, adobeing with the Church, is a beautiful garden, closed to the public. Among the few wTho have been admitted were the wife of President Benjamin Harrison and Queen Elizabeth of Belgium. This garden may be seen from the western tower.
The east garden, part of the old burying ground, contains the bodies of 4,000 Indians. In it are also concrete vaults, where are entombed the Franciscans who have died at the Mission. This cemetery is a garden of roses, geraniums, rare plants and trees. Near the center is a large Crucifix, in a carefully trimmed niche of native cypress trees.
Indian Paintings Decorate Ceiling
The length of the Church nave, exclusive of the choir, is 138 feet; the breadth, inside measurement, is 30 feet. Noticeable are the wood carvings and designs on the ceiling, original Indian work, cut from cedar. Thor’s Thunder Bird, or Winged Lightning, is repeated often.
Besides the main or High Altar (12 feet wide, 15 feet high), there are two chapels and two side altars. The two former, near the entrance, are in small oratories built in the solid walls, which at this place are of double thickness (12 feet). The one on the right, as one enters, is dedicated to St. Anthony, and over it is a large old painting representing hell. The chapel opposite is dedicated to St. Francis. Over this appears an old painting of Purgatory.
On the right side, next to the chapel of St. Anthony, is an altar dedicated to our Lady of Guadalupe, over which is a fine oil painting. An altar on the left is dedicated to St. Joseph.
Art Work Brought from Spain
The fourteen Stations of Cross are canvases brought from Spain, in 1793, and the four large pictures on the walls were introduced at the same time. The first, on the right, represents the Assumption; that opposite, the Crucifixion. The painting on the right, inside the sanctuary rail, shows Our Lady of the Scapular, while that on the left is a copy of “The Last Judgment,” which hangs in the Escurial Palace in Spain. On the right side of the altar is an oil painting, “The Descent from the Cross,” and on the left side is a life-size portrait of Jesus. Over the altar is a statue of Saint Barbara, while back of the altar are statues of the Blessed Virgin and St. Joseph.
!8The library, located in the cloisters adjoining the Church, with windows opening upon the arched corridor, contains a valuable collection of old volumes from different Missions when they were abandoned. Among these are some Spanish manuscripts, records of the old Missions. There is also a telescope given by Emperor Maximilian to Father Romo, who was Superior of the Mission from 1872 to 1884. A fine set of surveyors’ instruments also are here, the gift of the same emperor.
Indian Music Written in Colors
Adjoining the library, in the room of curios, in a large glass case, are three huge parchment volumes of the principal offices as recited by the Missionaries. These volumes are in good condition. The lettering is large, traced by hand and richly ornamented, representing years of labor. Of first interest to many are the maniple, stole and purse belonging to Father Junipero Serra. There are old statues, two antique vases of Mexican clay, and two chandeliers made by Indians.
One case contains several volumes of music. The notes are of different colors—an idea originating with a Padre as a means of teaching the native converts to sing.
Other interesting relics are: Writing set of the first Bishop of California; a well-preserved old Steinway piano, a brass-bound solid walnut writing desk, and many Indian curios. Huge chests are filled with gorgeous robes and vestments, many of richest brocade.
Of the twenty-one Missions founded in California in the Franciscan epoch (1769-1833) only two at present are occupied by and under the control of that order—Missions San Luis Rey de Francia and Santa Barbara.
19SANTA BARBARA BEACH. Gone are long-skirted Padres and copper-skinned children of their care, saddle-sure, highly bedecked Mexicans, Spanish Dons, velvety-eyed Señoritas, and soft strains of guitars. Yet still the days are halcyon, though of another generation, in the same soft, sunshiny clime, with the same blue-glinting waters of the Channel and the same lights and shadows on the mountains.
In upper left - hand corner appears Ambassador Hotel, destroyed by fire in 1921. It marks site Of SACYTON, ANCIENT INDIAN VILLAGE AND BURIAL GROUND.PREHISTORIC SANTA BARBARA
SANTA BARBARA’S delightful situation had attracted human beings long before the white men came. For many years previously—how long no one knows—an Indian village of round grass huts, with palm-curtain doors, stood on the shore between Mission Creek and the Mesa. This rancheria was called Sacyton, an Indian word for “where the trails meet.” Part of this village was an extensive burial ground (Burton Mound, Ambassador Hotel site), from which in 1923 were taken more than 2500 relics.
Through Sacyton the trails ran up and down the coast, north over the Santa Ynez Mountains, perhaps through San Marcos Pass, and southward to the islands. In red canoes, with long, odd-shaped oars, savages crossed the channel with more frequency than do their modern successors, and with comparatively greater ease. In 1543 there were eight villages on Santa Cruz Island (then known as Limn) and three on Santa Rosa (called Nicalque).
Enjoyed Modern Convenience—Playgrounds
The Indians, who with kindness received the explorers, were not energetic enough to work or to take much interest in fighting. Though they used bows and arrows, few weapons were exhumed from Burton Mound. They were fond of pastimes. Besides hunting, fishing, bathing, feasting and dancing, they had a game in which they raced after a rounded wooden block on a special playground.
In the savages’ dinners were rabbits and rats, deer, fish and other sea animals, birds and wild seeds. The natives ate between meals, like children, and even between naps.
“Easterners” Buy California Shells
Sacyton men wore little clothing, consisting of furs or fiber belts, but the women, who were somewhat comely, with hair about their shoulders, had dresses of deer skin and capes of otter. Their finery included abalone ornaments and small beads, in producing which they showed skill. In Burton Mound were found bone hairpins with heads of crystal set in asphaltum.
(ContinueJ on page 29)
21 •EARLY DAYS IN CALIFORNIA
KNOW, then, that on the right hand of the Indies there was an island called CALIFORNIA, close to the Terrestrial Paradise, and it was peopled by black women, without any man among them, for they lived in the fashion of the Amazons. Their arms were of gold, and
so was the harness of the wild beasts which they tamed and rode. For there was no metal except gold. Every man who landed on the island was devoured immediately by griffins.’
This quotation is from “The Deeds of Esplandian, the Son of Amadis of Gaul,” published in Spain before 1510, in which “California” occurs three times — its first appearance in print, so far as known. This narrative was popular in Cortez’ day, and Cortez in his reports first referred to the Pacific Coast of North America as California.
Cabrillo Arrives in California
The first white man on California soil was Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, under the Spanish flag, who visited San Diego Bay September 28, 1542. In 1579 the English voyager, Sir Francis Drake, sailed up the coast to the vicinity of San Francisco Bay. Don Sebastian Vizcaino, under Spanish orders, reached San Diego harbor and the Bay of Monterey in 1602 and, it is believed, gave the name Santa Barbara to channel, mainland and islands.
Franciscans Begin Their Historic Labors
In the time of Cortez Spanish State and Catholic Church were colonizing Mexico and Central America. A chain of Jesuit Missions was established in Lower California as the result of seventy years of endeavor. These Missions were authorized by the Spanish crown, but financed by the Jesuits themselves, by means of a Pious Fund created by gifts of Christians zealous for Catholic propaganda in the new world. By 1767 an annual income of $60,000 had been created by this fund. But in that year the Jesuits were expelled from Mexico, following similar action in Spain and other European countries, the climax of political agitation against them.
22Thereupon, and at the request of the Mexican government, Franciscan Missionaries, under Junipero Serra, replaced the Jesuits in Lower California and were supplied with part of the income of the Pious Fund.
In 1768 Spain ordered the occupation of California, after the Russians had reached the northwest coast of America by way of Bering Straits. Spain’s movement contemplated forts at San Diego and Monterey, with a settlement between them and was to be threefold—religious, military and civil.
Village Built at San Diego
This plan was put into execution in February, 1769, when a well-manned and equipped expedition, under Gaspar de Portola and Junipero Serra, set forth from Mexico for California. The former, then Governor of Lower California, served as Military Commander; the latter as President of sixteen Franciscan Friars. Four divisions comprised the expedition, two going overland and two by sea. To their equipment the Missions of Lower California had contributed their proportion of supplies.
One sea division reached San Diego within a few weeks, without serious delay. The second arrived eighteen days later, greatly weakened by disaster and sickness. On May 14 the first land division appeared in San Diego, and on July 2 a reunion of the entire expedition was celebrated by a day of thanksgiving. The natives were friendly to the newcomers.
First Mission Established in 1769
On high ground in what is now North San Diego, a village of huts and corrals was constructed. Hardship and disease by this time had resulted in the death of thirty-one members of the expedition, out of a total of 225. After burial of the dead and provision for the sick, Commander Perez, of the ship San Antonio, which had brought the first sea division to San Diego, sailed for Mexico, for supplies and more men. These he was instructed to carry to Monterey to meet Portola there. On July 14, Portola, leaving at San Diego about forty men, with Father Serra in charge, started overland for the north and Monterey.
On Sunday, July 16, 1769, solemn services marked the founding of California’s first Mission, San Diego de Alcala, by Father Junipero Serra, the beginning of the civilized occupation of the state.
23MISSION GARDEN AND ST. ANTHONY’S SEMINARY. Beautiful old garden is 140 feet square. View taken from Western Tower. In background (right) is St. Anthony’s Seminary, built in 1S99 for education of young men for the ministry.Portola, with about sixty-four men, traveled north through the Coast region, in search of Monterey Bay. They passed through the Santa Ana River Valley, the San Fernando Valley, and on to Ventura, which they named Asuncion. Following the coast along the Santa Barbara Channel, through Santa Barbara and many native rancherias, they reached the Santa Lucia Mountains on September 20. Ten days later the travelers were on the shores of Monterey Bay, but failing to recognize it as such, continued the search.
On October 31 they encamped at the mouth of San Francisco Bay. To Portola is due the honor of the discovery of this bay, though some of his men first sighted its waters, and Father Juan Crespi, his chronicler, recorded the discovery.
Commander Loses Hope; Monks’ Faith Rewarded
Disheartened by the non-arrival of their expected supply ship, Portola’s expedition started southward November 11. They again passed Monterey Bay without recognizing it, but erected a cross to mark the spot where they supposed it should be. On January 24, 1770, they reached San Diego.
Disease and death had weakened the little settlement, no Indians had been converted, and Portola, discouraged, ordered a return to Mexico March 20. Father Serra protested, but Portola insisted on the return unless the relief ship should arrive before the day set.
No human assistance being available, Father Serra and his associates passed the remaining few days in prayer for relief, and the Franciscans became the inspiration of the expedition. At sunset on March 19 the prayed-for sail appeared. It was the relief ship San Antonio, under Commander Perez. Encouraged, the Spanish undertook the establishment of a permanent colony.
Mission Begun at Monterey
Portola departed again for Monterey April 17, after he had left twenty-eight men at San Diego. Father Serra had sailed the day before in the ship San Antonio for the same destination. Portola’s party arrived first and this time recognized the Bay of Monterey, probably because, in the beauty of spring, it corresponded with descriptions they had received.
25On June 3, 1770, after Father Serra* had reached Monterey, Portola took possession of the country in the name of Carlos III, King of Spain, and Father Serra founded Mission San Carlos de Monterey.
In the Franciscan period, scarcely more than fifty years, twenty-one Missions were established in California, extending from San Diego to Sonoma, in the central part of the state, over an irregular line called El Camino Real or the King’s Highway. The Missions, located upon the garden spots, extended their influence and property in many directions, civilizing Indians, raising food products, breeding cattle, horses and sheep, and exporting hides, tallow and wine. As stewards or defenders of the rights of the Indians, the Franciscans owned or claimed vast tracts of land, and ruled the aborigines with a large measure of success.
Mexican Governors Succeed Spanish
The Indians were not hostile, yet the comparatively peaceful Mission epoch was punctuated with several outbreaks, which resulted in bloodshed on both sides. San Diego Mission was subjected twice to Indian attacks, and minor disturbances occurred from time to time. The revolt of 1824 originated at Santa Ynez and Purisima and extended to Santa Barbara.
From 1768 to 1822 ten Spanish governors ruled California, beginning with Don Gaspar de Portola (provisional) and ending with Don Pablo de Sola. In this period the Missions of California were established. Under Mexican domination, from 1822 to 1846, there were twelve governors, beginning with Arguello and ending with Pico.
*Miguel Jose Serra has been termed justly the Apostle of California. He was born on the island of Majorca, in the Mediterranean, November 24, 1713, and evinced even in boyhood a great inclination toward religious study. At sixteen years of age he entered the noviate of the Franciscan order and took the name Junípero. A brilliant student, he received the degree of Doctor of Theology. In 1749, when he was thirty-six, religious zeal led him to join a party of Missionaries going from Cadiz to Mexico, where for years he labored at the Franciscan College of San Fernando in Mexico City, and among Indians in the vicinity. Having been appointed Father President of the Franciscans, he was requested by the Mexican government to replace the Jesuits in Lower California. Later, when fifty-six, he accompanied the Spanish-Mexican expedition to California. He personally helped to found nine California Missions and remained Father President over them all until his death, August 28, 1784, at the age of seventy-one, at Mission San Carlos de Monterey y del Rio Carmelo, where he is entombed.
26The turbulence which characterized the quarter-century of Mexican rule in California affected the Missions, and secularization was advocated. The Franciscans, appreciating the natives’ unfitness for this change, vainly strove to postpone such action.*
Indians Lose Home and Lands
Under Mexican laws the so-called secularization of the Missions took place, beginning with a decree by the Mexican Congress, August 17, 1833. A careful perusal of available records of the epoch indicates that though the laws passed were secularization measures, the manner in which the authorities enforced them resulted in confiscation.
The change took place for ten Missions in 1834 and for six more the following year. Government agents took from the Padres all jurisdiction over Indians, Mission buildings and belongings. The Fathers were asked to serve as parish priests, and some of them did, temporarily.
The thousands of Mission Indians and neophytes, turned adrift, soon were despoiled of their land allotments in the general scramble for Mission property. They returned to the mountains, homeless and aimless wanderers. Some lived as they had existed before the Missions were founded; others came to want, and many to actual starvation.
Most of the Mission buildings quickly fell into ruin, the large herds and accumulated holdings melted away, and the influential and wealthy Mission system rapidly metamorphosed into an historic memory.
Americans Appear; California Enters Union in 1850
Until 1822 the secular development of California had been connected closely with that of the Missions. Americans practically were unrepresented until 1825, and by 1830 not more than 500 of them had become residents of California. By 1840 the population of the state, excluding natives, numbered 6,000.
In 1846 Lieut. Col. John C. Fremont, U.S.A. Corps of Engineers, came to California with an armed exploring expedition. As a result the Bear Flag was raised by settlers north of San Francisco, to proclaim the independence of California. This soon gave way at Monterey to the Stars and Stripes, raised by Commo-
*For full information see “The Missions and Missionaries of California,” by Rev. Zephyrin Engelhardt, O.F.M., residing at Mission Santa Barbara.
27OLD ADOBE HOME of Commandante de la Guerra, of Santa Barbara Presidio, and his son, Pablo, State Senator and Lieutenant Governor. Official and social center of picturesque Pueblo of Santa Barbara. Built in 1819, near site of Presidio. Now part of Street in Spain.dore Sloat, U.S.N., July 7, 1846, less than two months after the American Congress had declared that war existed between Mexico and the United States. Commodore Stockton, U.S.N., arrived at Monterey July 15, 1846. Joining forces with Lieutenant Colonel Fremont, he marched through California from Sonoma to San Diego and everywhere, without opposition, raised the American flag.
Following are subsequent notable events:
Discovery of gold at Coloma in 1848; the large immigration that followed; founding of a line of mail and passenger steamers between San Francisco and New York in 1849; opening of a wagon road from Missouri across the plains; California’s entry into the Union (the thirty-first state) September 9, 1850; introduction of a monthly mail between Sacramento and Salt Lake City; operation of first railroad in California in 1856, covering twenty-two miles between Sacramento and Folsom; establishment of the Pony Express in 1859; completion of a transcontinental railway May 10, 1869, by driving of the Gold Spike at Promontory, Nev.
(Continued from page 21)
Among their manufactures were chipped stone instruments, grinding stones, bone and shell fishhooks, obsidian knives, basketry traps and fiber fishnets. To Indians “back east” they “exported” shells and ornaments.
Their chiefs, to whom on special occasions they gave beads, had little control over them. But the natives had less freedom in reality than in romancers’ minds. For if they wandered too far from the “home town,” they were likely to clash with men of neighboring tribes.
About falsifying and stealing they were careless.
With painted poles and tablets as markers, they buried their dead under whalebone ribs or plates, obtained from dead monsters washed up on the shore near Castle Rock. Though they put possessions into graves and blew smoke over their departed friends, they seem to have entertained no hope of a life to come.
They honored a being called Sup by strewing the trails with feathers or seeds, perhaps as thank-offerings for food received. But who Sup was they could not tell, nor has anyone solved the mystery.
(For further details see Fr. Zephyrin Engelhardt’s “Santa Barbara Mission.”)
—L. S. C.
29SPANISH AND INDIAN NAMES
Abalone. Pacific Coast sea snail. Adobe. Sun-dried brick.
Agua Caliente. Hot water; springs. Agua Dulce. Fresh water.
Agua Fria. Cold water.
Ahwahnee (Ind.). Deep grassy valley.
Alameda. Shaded promenade. Alcatraz. Pelican.
Altadena. High part of valley. Alturas. Heights.
Anacapa. Deceptive in appearance.
Arroyo Grande. Big creek.
Arroyo Hondo. Deep creek. Arroyo Seco. Dry Creek.
Atascadero. Boggy ground. Atole. Mush.
Azusa. . Hidden trail.
Ballena. Whale.
Barranca. Shallow or small canyon.
Boca. Mouth.
Bolsa. Pocket or purse.
Buena Vista. Good View.
Calabazas. Pumpkins. Calaveras. Skulls.
Campo Seco. Dry field.
Canada de los Pinos. Valley of pines.
Carpinteria. Carpenter shop.
Carreta. A Mexican cart.
Casa Loma. House on the hill. Cayucos. Canoes.
Chico. Little.
Contra Costa. Opposite coast. Corona. Crown.
Corralitos. Small corrals. Covina. A small cave.
Cuyamaca (Ind.). A mother’s breast.
Del Mar. At the sea.
Del Monte. At the mountain.
Del Norte. At the north.
Del Paso. At the pass.
Del Sur. Of the south.
Dios. God.
Dolores. Sorrows.
Dos Palos. Two poles.
Dos Pueblos. Two villages.
El Cajon. The box or canyon.
El Camino Real. King’s Highway.
El Capitan. The captain or chief. El Centro. The center.
El Dorado. The gold field.
El Mirasol. The sunflower.
El Molino. The mill.
El Monte. The mountain or forest.
El Paseo. The promenade.
El Pinal. The pines.
El Portal. The gate.
El Sur. The south.
El Torro. The bull.
Enibarcadero. Place of departure. Encinal. Many oaks.
Encinitas. Small evergreen oaks. Encino. Live oak.
Ensenada. Cove.
Escondido. Hidden.
Faralone. Small pointed island. Fandango. Fancy Spanish dance. Fiesta. Feast.
Fresno. Ash tree.
Frijoles. Beans.
Garbanzo. Spanish wild pea. Gaviota. Sea gull.
Goleta. Schooner.
Hermosa. Beautiful.
Hermosillo. Little beauty.
Hetch Hetchy. Species of grass. Hornitos. Little ovens.
Islay. Wild cherry.
La Fuente. The fountain, spring. La Jolla. The jewel.
La Laguna. The lake.
Laguna del Key. Lake of the king. La Honda. The deep.
La Loma. Slope or hillock.
La Mesa. The table land.
La Piedra. The stone.
La Playa. The beach, shore. La Puente. The bridge.
Las Animas. The souls.
Las Cruces. The crosses.
Las Gallinas. The hens.
Linda Vista. Lovely view. Lobos. Wolves.
30Bos Alamos. The cottonwoods. Bos Angeles. The angels.
Bos Banos. The baths.
Bos Carneros. Male sheep.
Bos Gatos. The cats.
Bos Olivos. The olive trees. Madera. Timber.
Manana. To-morrow. Mariposa. Butterfly.
Mendocino. Somewhat false. Merced. Mercy or grace. Miramar. Behold the sea. Modesto. Modest, unassuming. Montecito. Little forest or moun-
tain.
Monte del Diablo. Devil’s mountain.
Monterey. King’s mountain. Muchas gracias. Many thanks. Nevada. Snowy.
Nogales. Walnut trees.
Nopal. Cactus.
Nuestro. Our or ours.
Nuevo. New.
Ojai. Nest.
Ojo Caliente. Hot soring. Oroville. City of gold.
Padre. Father (priest).
Pajaro. Bird.
Palo Alto. A tall tree.
Palo Verde. Green tree. Pasadena. Crown of the valley. Paso de Robles. Pass of the oaks. Patio. Open court.
Pedregosa. Stony.
Pescadero. Fishing place. Petaluma. Low hills.
Piedra Blanca. White stone. Pinole. Cornmeal.
Plaza. Public square.
Plumas. Feathers.
Potrero. Pasture.
Presidio. Fortified garrison. Pueblo. Town or village.
Punta de los Reyes. King’s
Point.
Ranchería. Indian village. Redondo. Round.
Peboso. Spanish scarf.
Rincon, corner or angle.
Rio Vista. River view.
Rodeo. Round-up of cattle.
Sacramento. Sacrament.
Salinas. Salt marsh.
Salsipuedas. Get out if you can. San Andres. St. Andrew.
San Bernardino. St. Bernard. San Buenaventura. St. Bona-
ventura.
San Diego. St. James.
San Fernando. St. Ferdinand. San Francisco. St. Francis.
San Gabriel. St. Gabriel.
San Jacinto. St. Hyacinth.
San Joaquin. St. Joachim.
San Jose. St. Joseph.
San Juan Bautista. St. John
the Baptist.
San Juan Capistrano. St. John Capistran.
San Buis Obispo. St. Louis, Bishop.
San Marcos. St. Mark.
San Mateo. St. Matthew.,
San Miguel. St. Michael.
San Pablo. St. Paul.
San Pedro. St. Peter.
San Pascual. St. Pascual.
Santa Catalina. St. Catherine. Santa Cruz. Holy Cross.
Santa Fe. Holy Faith.
Santa Ynez. St. Agnes.
Santa Ysabel. St. Elizabeth. Serape. Scarf worn by Spanish. Sausalito. Little willows. Seouoia. Big tree of pine family. Sierra Madre. The mother moun-
tain.
Sierra Nevada. Snow mountain. Siesta. A nap.
Soledad. Solitude.
Sombrero. Hat.
Talioe (Ind). Big Water. Tamalpais. Tamal Indian coun-
try.
Tejon. Badger.
Temescal (Ind). Sweat bath. Tiburon. Shark.
Tortilla. Thin corn meal cake. Tres Pinos. Three pines.
Valle Vista. Valley view. Yosemite (Ind). Grizzly bear. Vaquero. A skilled horseman. Wawona (Ind). Big tree.
31OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA
	Date of Dedication	Name of Missions	Nearest Railroad Station	Present Condition
1	1769	San Diego de Alcala	San Diego	Parish
18	1798	San Luis Rey de Francia	Oceanside	Franciscan Mission
7	1776	San Juan Capistrano	Capistrano	Parish
4	1771	San Gabriel Àrchangel	San Gabriel	Parish
17	1797	San Fernando Rey de España	San Fernando	Ruins
9	1782	San Buenaventura	Ventura	Parish
10	1786	Santa Barbara	Santa Barbara	Franciscan Mission
19	1804	Santa Ynez	Gaviota	Parish
11	1787	La Purísima Concepcion	Lompoc	Ruins
5	1772	San Luis Obispo de Tolosa	San Luis Obispo	Parish
16	1797	San Miguel Archangel	San Miguel	Parish
3	1771	San Antonio de Padua	King City	Ruins
13	1791	Nuestra Señora de la Soledad	Soledad	Ruins
2	1770	San Carlos de Monterey y del Rio Carmelo	Pacific Grove	Parish
15	1797	San Juan Bautista	Sargent	Parish
12	1791	Santa Cruz	Santa Cruz	Obliterated
8	1777	Santa Clara de Asis	Santa Clara	Parish
14	1797	San José de Guadalupe	Irvington	Ruins
6	1776	San Francisco de Asis (Dolores)	San Francisco	Parish
20	1817	San Rafael Archangel	San Rafael	Obliterated
21	1823	San Francisco de Solano de Sonoma	Sonoma	Museum
Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles, now known as Los Angeles Mission Church, facing the Plaza, in the city of Los Angeles, was founded by the Franciscans December 8, 1822. It was not a Mission, but was known as the Pueblo Church, San Gabriel Archangel being the Mission. Two more Missions were founded near San Luis Rey de Francia and as branches thereof, namely, Paia in 1816 and Santa Ysabel in 1822. The latter is in ruins; the former is restorted and used for Parish Church services.